# The Socket 939 Appreciation Club and Knowledgebase [Official]



## Pap3r

Great idea!

Here's my OC'd 4600.


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## nategr8ns

Slight overclock from 2.4ghz
stock cooling (looking for a TRUE or IFX-14 atm)


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## thlnk3r

Arg, I need to find my stable 3Ghz OC but here is my 3.2Ghz OC at 1.475 volts(not sure if it's Orthos stable or not):



















Joe, I've always enjoyed reading these guides, perhaps we can add these to our knowledgebase:
http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...ing-guide.html
http://www.overclock.net/faqs/31782-...pu-memory.html
http://icrontic.com/articles/a64_overclocking_theory


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## pioneerisloud

I'd also like to join....two different processor CPUz validations can be found in my sig.

And where's the member list? I'd better be some sort of elder here mister!


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## crashovride02

Attachment 65867

Maybe someday I can hit 3GHz stable!!


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## txtmstrjoe

D'oh!

pioneer, you kill me!

Will add you to our roster immediately.









Same goes out to crashovride02.









A quick missive: If anybody's got any helpful links they would like to suggest, shoot me a PM and I'll see if it passes muster. I'll post the link(s) as soon as possible.

Thanks, y'all!


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## pioneerisloud

Can't wait to see this thread just pwn the good ol' booberon thread! Happy to see you up and posting again txtmstrjoe!


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## txtmstrjoe

Members list updated.










pioneer, hopefully we can all make this club fun and informative! And thanks for your support.

(By the way, something is coming your way.







Check your mailbox in a couple of days...)


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## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Members list updated.









pioneer, hopefully we can all make this club fun and informative! And thanks for your support.

(By the way, something is coming your way.







Check your mailbox in a couple of days...)

Absolutely....will do!

And how come I'm just a "standard" member now? Grrrr....I'm going to file a complaint with the manager! I've been telling you guys we need a better 939 club.....jeez! What more do you need from me???

I'd also like to say.....maybe we should steal a few of the Grand Poobah's idea's in the old thread....such as the tech document links for the temperatures. Those were really handy. Just my $0.02.

Now...I gotta ship out that stupid freakin dead 7900GS XT back to XFX before I lose that $5 to yet another pack of cigarrettes. My last $5....RMA that stupid dead on arrival card.....or smokes? Think I choose RMA, its better for my health







!


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## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Absolutely....will do!

And how come I'm just a "standard" member now? Grrrr....I'm going to file a complaint with the manager! I've been telling you guys we need a better 939 club.....jeez! What more do you need from me???

I'd also like to say.....maybe we should steal a few of the Grand Poobah's idea's in the old thread....such as the tech document links for the temperatures. Those were really handy. Just my $0.02.

Now...I gotta ship out that stupid freakin dead 7900GS XT back to XFX before I lose that $5 to yet another pack of cigarrettes. My last $5....RMA that stupid dead on arrival card.....or smokes? Think I choose RMA, its better for my health







!

You're hardly a "standard" member. ROFL

I'm all for having links to those tech docs added to our thread here.


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## The Duke

He hee, you get the bit [O]








AMD CPUs Current Tech Essentials


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## txtmstrjoe

Thanks to The Duke for making us *OFFICIAL*.

And thanks to your links as well. I will add them to the first post in the thread.


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## GuardianOdin

I'm in,3ghz baby!


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## txtmstrjoe

Alright, as I leave for lunch break here at work, here's a small topic to chew on for now.

Which S939 CPUs have you all actually used and OCed with? The more info you can provide, the more interesting reading it's going to be.







If you know your CPU's stepping code, it would be good to include that as well, just for general information purposes. Lastly, a comment or two about OCing your chip(s) would be most interesting as well.

I'll add my own contributions to this later on, when I have time towards the end of my work day.


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## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 








Slight overclock from 2.4ghz
stock cooling (looking for a TRUE or IFX-14 atm)

Hey nate,drop that HT down a smidgen. Your hitting that point that the chips just don't like, between 600-1000 is ideal.


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## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Alright, as I leave for lunch break here at work, here's a small topic to chew on for now.

Which S939 CPUs have you all actually used and OCed with? The more info you can provide, the more interesting reading it's going to be.







If you know your CPU's stepping code, it would be good to include that as well, just for general information purposes. Lastly, a comment or two about OCing your chip(s) would be most interesting as well.

I'll add my own contributions to this later on, when I have time towards the end of my work day.









Well...I'm sure I don't have as much hands on experience with 939 as you do txtmstrjoe. However the two you see linked in my sig are the only two I've had the pleasure of playing with. Here's the low down:

Both processors were overclocked in my sig rig (the only thing that has changed was RAM and GPU):

1st:
Athlon X2 3800+ Manchester (Unknown stepping)
Had the potential to reach 2.55GHz stable, and 2.94GHz suicide run. Stabily I was at 1.425v under load (1.45v idle) using the 166MHz RAM divider to make the RAM at 212.5MHz. This was with a 1GB kit of Corsair VS DDR400. This processor is still in use (starting tomorrow again, woot!) in an MSI K8N Neo4 SLI motherboard. I'm hoping she'll still reach the happy 2.55Ghz in said board with the exact same RAM kit (Thank you thlnk3r for said board!). I don't know the stepping of this processor because I lapped it before learning that steppings matter, lol. On the plus side though....it's mirror smooth! I'd also like to mention said CPU has hit a load temperature of 95*C for 10 minutes.....and she still lives! She loads at a happy 72*C at stock voltage with the Zalman in my sig rig....yes this chip runs unnaturally hot! Don't ask me why...I have no clue.

2nd:
Opteron 165 Toledo (LCBQE stepping)
Still running today. Current stable speed is 3.0GHz (333x9), and I've reached 3.27GHz on a suicide run with 1.65v. I'm using the 133MHz divider to put my RAM at 214.5MHz with my OCZ DDR500. With the Corsair Value RAM, I had to run the 100MHz divider to put the RAM at DDR333 speeds (212.5Mhz was the Corsair's max). This is by far my favorite of all 939 processors that I've ever even heard about. I'm at 3.0GHz (67% overclock) with only 1.375v under load (1.40v ish idle). That's barely above stock volts!!! My temperatures suck royally as of right now because my case is WAY too tight for the Zalman cooler....so the hot air pretty much just hangs out inside. I load at 66*C under a full Orthos priority 9 load. Just 1*C above thermal spec, I'm happy enough with that. I've had this processor up to 78*C on a suicide run...just for fun. These chips can take more of a beating than the 55*C fairy tale will have you believe.

3rd????
I've got another Opteron coming soon. Its supposed to be a naked Opty 148. We'll see how she does....probably on the MSI board since my Zalman more than likely won't mount to a naked chip. I won't know the stepping info on it however...because its naked. The original owner stated he's hit 2.8 with it....we'll just see about that!

Out of that list...I'd have to say that the X2 3800 was more fun to overclock with however. It just seemed more of a challenge to get that sucker up in the MHz. But boy it sure was a happy moment for me when I opened my Opteron 165 up, popped her in, put FSB to 333 and I was immediately at 3.0GHz and booting Windows! That was a happy day! I still can't believe I've almost had this rig for a year now!

And finally......
SOCKET 939 STILL LIVES ON!!! ITS NOT DEAD SUCKAS!! JUST SEE MY LINKS IN MY SIG!!!


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## txtmstrjoe

Pretty mega contribution, pioneer! Well done!









To be perfectly honest, pioneer was correct in saying that I've touched and played with quite a large sample size of Socket 939 CPUs. I've got a small collection of these chips, some of which are still sealed in their boxes, in fact; I've also sold many to clients who wanted/needed a S939 platform.

For now, though, I'll tell you about the chip in my gaming rig. It's an Opteron 170 @ 2.8GHz (the CPU referred to in this thread's first post), mounted in an Asus A8N32-SLI Deluxe. The stepping is *LCB9E 0704TPMW*; as far as this stepping is concerned, I've overclocked maybe as many as six or seven CPUs from this same batch (the only variation being in the final quartet of letters; the IMC versions and date of manufacture are the same, though), and many of them "read hot." What I mean is that they tend to return higher than expected core temperatures even at low-to-stock VCore.

This particular chip runs naked, i.e., sans its Integrated Heat Spreader. This wasn't the first CPU I had made topless, though, but by this time the operation only took maybe ten minutes at most. It's a safe operation if you're careful and if you know what you're doing.









It's a honey of a chip; the max I took it up to was 3.0GHz (300MHz x 10) @ 1.37ishV VCore; it booted into the OS, but froze almost immediately. Clearly this CPU needs a voltage bump if I'm ever to run it at higher than the 24/7 stable 2.8GHz I have it set to today. The max temperatures I've seen, which were observed in the summer when my bedroom transforms into a sauna, is maybe 57 degrees C on the hot core whilst running S&M v.1.90. My records indicate that the ambient temperature during the test was a toasty 97 degrees Fahrenheit...

I'm perfectly happy with my chip running at 2.8GHz. The RAM actually can run up to 280MHz (DDR560), but its ICs get really funky when running at higher than DDR520 (260MHz); at speeds higher than DDR520, the system becomes 3D unstable, so I had to back the RAM down by using a divider.

It's fully S&M v.1.90-stable. I've run the stability tests multiple times, and it's passed every single time as presently configured.


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## pioneerisloud

Congratulations on your sweet overclock txtmstrjoe.

Unfortunately, my Opteron seems to return back higher than expected temperatures as well. Granted my case cooling absolutely sucks (no pun intended







), but my temperatures should be nowhere NEAR 66*C under load at only 1.375v. Go figure, we got ourselves a couple of hot overclockers (pun intended this time







). This is why the hot temperatures don't bother me so much...I know that there's NO WAY my chip is actually running at 66*C, I believe it to be a whacked out thermal sensor. Just my conspiracy theory on these boobterons!


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## GuardianOdin

wish I could run the Vcore you do pioneer. I will continue to try and get the perfect settings=) this RAM of mine is giving me a headache thou


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## Death Dealer

I'll join seeing I own 4 SKT939 systems currently here my baby currently on a mATX SLI board

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=313371

Processor would go higher but FSB is locked between 200-300























Also can I add multiple systems????


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## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Death Dealer*


I'll join seeing I own 4 SKT939 systems currently here my baby currently on a mATX SLI board

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=313371

Processor would go higher but FSB is locked between 200-300























Also can I add multiple systems????


300 max on that DFI?


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## pioneerisloud

Guardian:
I think your vcore problem is because of the stepping. From what I've seen the CCBBE stepping requires some decent voltage to reach the higher clocks...however they seem to clock higher max than the LCBxE steppings do.

Death Dealer:
I don't see any reason why you couldn't add multiple systems...I did. Thank god for newegg! My second 939 system will be up and running later today!!!


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## Death Dealer

No the DFI is getting case transfer right now I am on a EVGA NF44 SLI mATX and has a 300fsb wall but allows me to get 3ghz with 1.475v on 3800 X2 Toledo. Cooling it with CM Gemini lapped with 2 Themaltake 75cfm 120mm one pulling one pushing yet to hit 48c max on both cores


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## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Guardian:
I think your vcore problem is because of the stepping. From what I've seen the CCBBE stepping requires some decent voltage to reach the higher clocks...however they seem to clock higher max than the LCBxE steppings do.

Death Dealer:
I don't see any reason why you couldn't add multiple systems...I did. Thank god for newegg! My second 939 system will be up and running later today!!!


I was saying over in OooO thread "still makes me laugh" I think my issue right now is heat,even having the lapped CPU/Heatsink is going to cut on air. Saving up for watercooling.


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## Death Dealer

Watercooling is quiet solution to high clocks but my Gemini runs about the same as my watercooler but its 75cfm @ 32db


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## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Death Dealer*


Watercooling is quiet solution to high clocks but my Gemini runs about the same as my watercooler but its 75cfm @ 32db
























I'd say my Big Typhoon could handle it,but last night before work I did a stress test and hit 70c at 3Ghz. So day I will lower the Vcore and run again today. I wish I could set the tower next to a window for the winter air=)

I do have an extra 120mm and 80mm fan I could slap on the BT and see if the extra airflow helps.


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## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
I'd say my Big Typhoon could handle it,but last night before work I did a stress test and hit 70c at 3Ghz. So day I will lower the Vcore and run again today. I wish I could set the tower next to a window for the winter air=)

I do have an extra 120mm and 80mm fan I could slap on the BT and see if the extra airflow helps.

Let us know how that goes!

You just reminded me! I've got two extra 80mm Masscool Blue LED fans!!! I think I'm going to rig up some sort of a spot cooler....might help my Zalman a little bit.


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## Death Dealer

this is the highest stable clock at 1.5v on the 165 CCBBE on watercooling loop with 120mm rad and 80mm rad

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=307353


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## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Death Dealer* 
this is the highest stable clock at 1.5v on the 165 CCBBE on watercooling loop with 120mm rad and 80mm rad

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=307353

Holy wow! That's a STABLE overclock???? Congrats man! That's amazing!


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## Death Dealer

Suicide runs have booted windows in 3.2ghz














but ram had to be lowered alot and CPU-Z refused to open before crash wasn't a cooling prob though my loop is solid!!!


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## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Death Dealer* 
Suicide runs have booted windows in 3.2ghz














but ram had to be lowered alot and CPU-Z refused to open before crash wasn't a cooling prob though my loop is solid!!!

I'd love to boot into 3.2Ghz! But I have taken the Bus Speed to 349 and booted fully in to windows...then crash=(


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## pioneerisloud

I was able to hit a suicide run of 3.27GHz on my 165....but that was with Clockgen. It never crashed on me, but it failed Orthos. I booted at 3.1GHz through BIOS, 2x HT Link, 100Mhz divider, 1.65v.....and then just upped it from Clockgen from there. It was fun.


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## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Death Dealer* 
Also can I add multiple systems????

Death Dealer, that shouldn't be a problem. Joe will go ahead and add you when he gets on later.


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## Death Dealer

Cool I love my 939







but ddr is becoming old tech quick







with the low latency ddr2 and the new ddr3's out there







. sigh why did AMD imbedd there mem controller in there cpu's







gerrrrrrrr


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## BinaryDemon

It's a shame - I love my 939 platform as well, I just wish the platform had a little longer lifespan. There are very few worthwhile upgrade options to my X2-4200 overclocked. I guess in a few years ill look for an Opteron cheap on Ebay.

I'll get myself a completely new system in a few months, but I'll still expect my current 939 system to perform tasks as a file/game server over the next few years.


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## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BinaryDemon* 
It's a shame - I love my 939 platform as well, I just wish the platform had a little longer lifespan. There are very few worthwhile upgrade options to my X2-4200 overclocked. I guess in a few years ill look for an Opteron cheap on Ebay.

I'll get myself a completely new system in a few months, but I'll still expect my current 939 system to perform tasks as a file/game server over the next few years.

Lol...man I've had my 939 rig for a year now. When I bought it I could've afforded a C2D with an 8800GTS 320MB. I heard what I bought was the best though, so that's what I went with. Granted it doesn't perform nearly as well as a C2D....this rig has yet to let me down. I personally will probably still run my rig for another year or two AT LEAST with just minor graphics upgrades when needed. I don't feel the need for DDR2 or a quad core processor right now. A 3.0Ghz dual core, 2GB of DDR, and a decent video card will last for at least another year for most people. Actually....I'm going to have a second 939 gaming rig running later today. I know they may not be the latest and greatest, but if its what you've got...you can always make the best of it.

And an Opteron 165/170 upgrade will not disappoint you (if your motherboard will overclock them well). I can back that one up!


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## Mike-O

I'm in!











Wow.. is Toledo really so bad, that i can't get decent clocks out of it?


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## GuardianOdin

Sometimes it's not all about the GaGigahertz....it's about the cookies


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## txtmstrjoe

I've added Death Dealer and Mike-O to our roster.

Thanks, guys!


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## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mike-O* 
I'm in!











Wow.. is Toledo really so bad, that i can't get decent clocks out of it?

Mike-O, do you happen to know the stepping of that 3800+?


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## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


wish I could run the Vcore you do pioneer. I will continue to try and get the perfect settings=) this RAM of mine is giving me a headache thou


Yeah, this is one reason why I love LCBQEs. They tend to take less VCore than most other steppings when running high OCs.

I traded one of my LCBQEs for a video card with thlnk3r; I tease him sometimes about how I'm going to go to his house one day and beat him up to a pulp, then get my golden chip back.









3.2GHz on air...







On less than 1.45V, too, if I'm not mistaken...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


I'd say my Big Typhoon could handle it,but last night before work I did a stress test and hit 70c at 3Ghz. So day I will lower the Vcore and run again today. I wish I could set the tower next to a window for the winter air=)

I do have an extra 120mm and 80mm fan I could slap on the BT and see if the extra airflow helps.


GuardianOdin, you do have two options to try, of course. You could 1) Lap your HSF and IHS, or 2) you could run your CPU topless.

I know for a fact that pioneerisloud gets, um, excited when he sees pictures of a topless chip...


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## nuklearwax

I want in too. Pleaze. I've been working my hertz up slowly but I'm up to 2.6Ghz. If I've got time I'll try for 2.7 this weekend.


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## The Duke

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mike-O* 
I'm in!











Wow.. is Toledo really so bad, that i can't get decent clocks out of it?

Most Toledos were good to great OCers. You may need to increase the divider if the RAM can't handle the speed. RAM sub timings can be a royal pain to some times and cause a lot of havoc in the OCing process.


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## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Yeah, this is one reason why I love LCBQEs. They tend to take less VCore than most other steppings when running high OCs.

I traded one of my LCBQEs for a video card with thlnk3r; I tease him sometimes about how I'm going to go to his house one day and beat him up to a pulp, then get my golden chip back.









3.2GHz on air...







On less than 1.45V, too, if I'm not mistaken...

GuardianOdin, you do have two options to try, of course. You could 1) Lap your HSF and IHS, or 2) you could run your CPU topless.

I know for a fact that pioneerisloud gets, um, excited when he sees pictures of a topless chip...


You're absolutely right, I LOVE to see topless chips! Anybody else looking to do a trade for a decent Opteron for a graphics card? Lol. I have two 8600GTS's....and only one monitor! C'mon, I've got another 939 board just BEGGIN to up the GHz!!! 2.55 is weak (all this Manny can hit). Lol.

Ok, enough joking around since I'm sure nobody would trade an 8600GTS for a good Opteron....I would like to welcome all the latest additions to this little thread. Hope you guys can learn something from us, as I hope we do from you!


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## Masterchief3k

My 939 has been through so much, mobo failures, HD near-failures, and plenty of other hardware changes, even a PSU blowup, but my CPU itself never suffered. Yes, i have a 939, i'm pretty proud, but it's going on 4 years old..Time for a new proc!?


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## iandroo888

can i join?









im lookin for an opty 165 or 170... hope someone can help me T_T dam it pioneerisloud. stop jacking everything from me T_T


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## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Masterchief3k*


My 939 has been through so much, mobo failures, HD near-failures, and plenty of other hardware changes, even a PSU blowup, but my CPU itself never suffered. Yes, i have a 939, i'm pretty proud, but it's going on 4 years old..*Time for a new proc!?*










OH HECK NO!!! 939 lives on!!! C'mon man, just slap an 8800 in that bad boy and you'll be good to go







!


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## vwgti

I want to join the club. I love my 939 setup, been through a 3700+ sandiego and a opty 148 now on my 170 with cpuz screens attached of my 24/7 stable oc.


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## Mr. Mojo

I'm a proud owner of a 3700 Sandy...the best single core desktop processor ever released to the public







It's not in my primary rig but it still gets used several hours a day. I've had it running @ 2.8Ghz for a couple of years now but recently I've been playing with it again. I'm now up to 2.915 and going for the magic 3.0...


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## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
can i join?









im lookin for an opty 165 or 170... hope someone can help me T_T dam it pioneerisloud. stop jacking everything from me T_T

Lol, dude this thread isn't about trading parts or buying parts. That's what the wanted and for sale section is for. This section is all about learning about 939 and helping others with their 939 setups. I only made that comment as a joke as to what txtmstrjoe had said previously. I was only half joking....but still.


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## Oscuro

Well, as soon as my new ram gets here, I'll probably have one of the more more over-the-top 939 rigs going:








DFI NF4 SLI-DR Expert
Asus 8800GTX
G-Skill DDR500 (Waiting on it, can't remember if it is 1gig, or 2...)

Going into a just arrived CM Stacker 810.
Do need to get still:
Quality PSU
Hard-drives
SATA burner
new fans
X-fi soundcard.


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## iandroo888

i know... i just wanted to increase my chances of finding one by 0.00001%... lol..

anyone wanna help me oc my 4200? im stuck @ 2.64GHz with 1.45V...


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## The Duke

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Lol, dude this thread isn't about trading parts or buying parts. That's what the wanted and for sale section is for. This section is all about learning about 939 and helping others with their 939 setups. I only made that comment as a joke as to what txtmstrjoe had said previously. I was only half joking....but still.

No its not. but this is where it all began! The two of you know what I'm talking about


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## pioneerisloud

It wasn't me duke! I'm innocent







, I promise







.

Iandroo.....haven't we already discussed the overclock potential of a Manny? I'm on one right now, lol...and they don't go higher than 2.6-2.7GHz. You're LUCKY to have it as high as you do.


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## iandroo888

i refuse to accept the truth! (altho i already did since im lookin for a opty now) haha


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## waqasr

Im definitely in, but am i the only one with a single core here...dam i need a dual core opty...im not getting an x2 if it wont hit 3 ghz.







...and i wont get 2gb ram because i love my bh-5 too much


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## txtmstrjoe

Hi, guys!

I'd like to extend a formal welcome to iandroo88 and vwgti, our two newest members.









I'd also like to gently remind nuklear wax, Masterchief3k, Mr. Mojo, and Oscuro that we'd be absolutely thrilled to add you to our fun group. I'll add you to the roster as soon as I get a CPU-Z validation (link or screenshot, whichever is most convenient), so that we can post that proudly up on the roster next to your name.









I'm thinking of adding some really good info, complete with photos, in the coming days and weeks. I'll be discussing some ideas with thlnk3r, as well, regarding these possible materials. Here's a tease of a hint for ya: There will be pictures...









By the way, pioneer, have you got the links to the AMD Tech Docs on you anywhere? It'd be great to have these up on the first post of the thread.









Let's get this party on!

Edit: Just added waqasr! Welcome, man!


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## nuklearwax

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I'd also like to gently remind nuklear wax, Masterchief3k, Mr. Mojo, and Oscuro that we'd be absolutely thrilled to add you to our fun group. I'll add you to the roster as soon as I get a CPU-Z validation (link or screenshot, whichever is most convenient), so that we can post that proudly up on the roster next to your name.









Will do as soon as i get home tonight.


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## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nuklearwax* 
Will do as soon as i get home tonight.

Awesome!

Now, don't be concerned if you don't see your name on the roster right away. More likely than not, it's just a case of me not having had the time to do the roster update. But, for sure you'll see your name up in lights on the roster as soon as possible.










Thanks again!


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## ZealotKi11er

Here is My single core Athlon 3700 @ 3.0Ghz
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=313731


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## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er* 
Here is My single core Athlon 3700 @ 3.0Ghz
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=313731

Thanks, ZealotKi11er! You're in.


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## Jman_345

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=313758

MY Sempron Going as Fast as Possible (Which isnt much)

Btw If anyone can Get me a Link to a place were they sell one of those DFI Lanparty nf4 Mobo it would be Greatly Appreciated...


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## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Hi, guys!
................By the way, pioneer, have you got the links to the AMD Tech Docs on you anywhere? It'd be great to have these up on the first post of the thread.









Let's get this party on!..............


I can get those links as soon as possible. However web browsing is proving to be quite difficult at the moment. Running Orthos Priority 5 in Vista x64 on the rig in my sig. It's currently running at 2.6GHz with the value RAM at 217MHz 3,4,4,8,2T (stock timings). Quite impressive if she proves stable. She better, I'm pushing 1.50v through her, in the hopes of stability. Temps are at 72*C.....I don't mind, this CPU's seen 95*C....so I'm quite sure the temp sensors are out of whack. I'll keep you updated and I'll provide a proof of stability and speeds screenshot when I call her done.

I'd also like to make note here....that those links should be easily attainable from the Official Order of the Opteron thread. I do believe they're still hanging out there on the first post. I could be wrong....if I am, I've got some googling to do once this rig is stable







.


----------



## iandroo888

note to txtmstrjoe, those validations on my sig are not the highest ive been. they are only the highest stable. im not sure which you want. makes more sense to get highest stable right? heh


----------



## Oscuro

My apologies:










That should work....I hope








Haven't OC'd yet due to craptacular, and error ridden Kingston Ram that was rock solid stable in my old board.....*grumble*


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


note to txtmstrjoe, those validations on my sig are not the highest ive been. they are only the highest stable. im not sure which you want. makes more sense to get highest stable right? heh


Whichever you'd want to give, iandroo888.









I personally shoot for highest stable OC. I figure, "What's the point of all that speed, if your machine isn't reliable and stable for what you want/need it to do?"

Of course, that's just a personal opinion and viewpoint. It's not the only valid one out there.









Also, welcome to Oscuro! You've been added to the roster of the damned. I mean, the roster of the club...









You'll get more pub once you OC your Opteron 170.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jman_345*


http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=313758

MY Sempron Going as Fast as Possible (Which isnt much)

Btw If anyone can Get me a Link to a place were they sell one of those DFI Lanparty nf4 Mobo it would be Greatly Appreciated...


Jman_345, you've been added as well. And I've highlighted the fact that you have a rare beast there. Not too many people even OWN Sempron64s, much less OC them.









As far as a link to where you can get a DFI LANParty nF4, well, I'm afraid that unless you can find one in the For Sale section, eBay might be your best shot.

FYI: I've bought one DFI UT LANParty nF4 board on eBay, and it was a good one. So don't automatically assume that these are not worth the risk.

As always, though, your mileage may vary.


----------



## Oscuro

Sweet, now I just need to get a good psu, and the ram to begin overclocking it.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


GuardianOdin, you do have two options to try, of course. You could 1) Lap your HSF and IHS, or 2) you could run your CPU topless.

I know for a fact that pioneerisloud gets, um, excited when he sees pictures of a topless chip...



Both Lapped







, Today I decided to set my tower closer to the floor and near the window for some nice fresh winter air. Dropped down to 23-25c Idle and maxed at 65c running OCCT. I am heading to watercooled in a few weeks. need the CPU Block and Chipset block. Only thing I have right now is a decent sized Harley Davidson radiator







chromed copper "shiny"


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Both Lapped







, Today I decided to set my tower closer to the floor and near the window for some nice fresh winter air. Dropped down to 23-25c Idle and maxed at 65c running OCCT. I am heading to watercooled in a few weeks. need the CPU Block and Chipset block. Only thing I have right now is a decent sized Harley Davidson radiator







chromed copper "shiny"


Sweet! Sorry, man, didn't know that you had your surfaces lapped.









For sure, ambient temps have the biggest effect on lowering component temperatures.

When you get your water-cooling kit all done, I hope we get pictures! Also, when you get this project up and running, maybe you can be persuaded to do a pictorial "how-to" and post it on the thread? I'd be glad to help out with that and collaborate with you.


----------



## RuSo

<max booting...
my old 4000+ 939 SanDiego


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Sweet! Sorry, man, didn't know that you had your surfaces lapped.










For sure, ambient temps have the biggest effect on lowering component temperatures.

When you get your water-cooling kit all done, I hope we get pictures! Also, when you get this project up and running, maybe you can be persuaded to do a pictorial "how-to" and post it on the thread? I'd be glad to help out with that and collaborate with you.


I'll be taking pics of a few things. First will be my custom 8800GT heatsink,then I'll be lapping my 3500+ just to show how to and have real pictures of it being done for my current Lapping Tut,and then the water cooling. The water cooling I'll be doing with be mostly custom. Thou for the waterblocks I will be buying them online becuase I do not have the machines to make them.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

RuSo, mighty impressive OC with that San Diego!

Is that rig still alive?

And what cooling did you use to get that OC?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


I'll be taking pics of a few things. First will be my custom 8800GT heatsink,then I'll be lapping my 3500+ just to show how to and have real pictures of it being done for my current Lapping Tut,and then the water cooling. The water cooling I'll be doing with be mostly custom. Thou for the waterblocks I will be buying them online becuase I do not have the machines to make them.


Sounds good, Guardian! Please do share the pics here.


----------



## Death Dealer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mike-O*


I'm in!









Wow.. is Toledo really so bad, that i can't get decent clocks out of it?


Whoa man Toledo is the best core overall for the X2 I got lucky with my Toledo is a 3ghz processor but you need volts and high preformance ram.

3800 X2 at 3ghz is ortho stable for 3hours+ at 1.475v and PC-4400 at 500mhz (1T) at stock timings 3-3-3-8 you have to downclock your ram in some cases also running 2.85v to the ram for added stablilty memtest tested. Have not had it crash yet. What is funny is my DFI board could not get more than 2.75ghz out of it





















. But my extra EVGA, and Biostar NF4 SLI's run it TITS


----------



## pioneerisloud

Update on the rig in my sig!!!

We're now going on 33 minutes Orthos priority 5 blended stable! Settings are as follows:
260FSB x 10
4x HT Link
166MHz divider
1.50v
2x Crucial VS DDR400 (512), 2x Samsung Buffalo? DDR400 (512)
stock timings of 3,4,4,8,2T because of the Samsungs.
new timings of 2.5,3,3,7,2T at 217MHz!!!! (2.75v)
And we're loading at a nice and hot 59/79*C (yeah, a 20*C delta....I'm sure!)

I really highly doubt the hotter core is really reaching 79*C. I'm actually pretty darn sure this CPU is still within thermal spec. I think the temp sensor's out of whack on her. But still, 2.60GHz on a Manny 3800+...not too shabby if I say so myself! Once I'm done with this rig, I'll post a SS of stability and CPUz verification on this and my 3.0GHz Opty that's 100% stable. That way I've got stable overclocks listed on the member's page.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Sounds good, pioneer!


----------



## dskina

I had (now my brother's) a Sandy 4000+ @ 2.9 paired with an Abit KN8-SLI. I also had a cpu-z verification in my sig for a while, but don't remember the link







. It was a solid cpu, and one of my favorites.


----------



## Death Dealer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Oscuro*


Well, as soon as my new ram gets here, I'll probably have one of the more more over-the-top 939 rigs going:








DFI NF4 SLI-DR Expert
Asus 8800GTX
G-Skill DDR500 (Waiting on it, can't remember if it is 1gig, or 2...)

Going into a just arrived CM Stacker 810.
Do need to get still:
Quality PSU
Hard-drives
SATA burner
new fans
X-fi soundcard.



Not in 3dmark06 you won't LOL First beat this score I think right now I am holding the lead for 939

LINK

Pioneer Download Core Temp my bios says I get 45c on boot but according to Core Temp each core is only at 23C


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dskina*


I had (now my brother's) a Sandy 4000+ @ 2.9 paired with an Abit KN8-SLI. I also had a cpu-z verification in my sig for a while, but don't remember the link








. It was a solid cpu, and one of my favorites.


Mmmm, good combo right there. I've always liked my KN8-SLI. It's one of those great underrated boards that nobody knows about.

dskina, is that Sandy still OCed today? I'll accept a screenshot from it, even if it's your brother's rig now. Heck, I'll put you in even if it's not OCed.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Death Dealer*


Not in 3dmark06 you won't LOL First beat this score I think right now I am holding the lead for 939

LINK


Most impressive score, Death Dealer! Is that with a single card, or SLI?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Sounds good, Guardian! Please do share the pics here.










I just need to find time!







two jobs suck







<---very sad face. Gets in the way of progress!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


I just need to find time!







two jobs suck







<---very sad face. Gets in the way of progress!


No pressure, man! I'll help out however I can.


----------



## Poser

I am so in....










click here for the love

I also have my faithful Dan Siego 3500 running @ 2.8 in my XP rig (media/surfing/family pc)...

check out my sig for all sorts of mishaps in lapping, delidding and bad parenting

939 rulz....


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Oscuro*


Well, as soon as my new ram gets here, I'll probably have one of the more more over-the-top 939 rigs going:








DFI NF4 SLI-DR Expert
Asus 8800GTX
G-Skill DDR500 (Waiting on it, can't remember if it is 1gig, or 2...)

Going into a just arrived CM Stacker 810.
Do need to get still:
Quality PSU
Hard-drives
SATA burner
new fans
X-fi soundcard.


The Expert! love this Mobo,so much more stable than the Ultra-D"still a nice Mobo" and with that RAM you be able to stay nice and loose on the timing and not worry about it interfering with your OC. Just make sure to set the RAM to a divider of 150 to be safe.

CPU 334x9
RAM 150
HT 2-2.5


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Poser, you're *SO* in!


----------



## Death Dealer

Yes that is in SLI unfortunetly with 2 8800GTS's clocked at 700/1650/2150 at 3.09ghz I think its this damn DFI I need to find a ASUS 16x16 and see if we can get that score to change for the better.

LINK

This was the test case do to the room and amount of cooling needed and yes one video card is water cooled and one isn't DFI SLI-DR have only one pci slot between them it sucks LOL


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Death Dealer*


Yes that is in SLI unfortunetly with 2 8800GTS's clocked at 700/1650/2150 at 3.09ghz I think its this damn DFI I need to find a ASUS 16x16 and see if we can get that score to change for the better.

LINK


I honestly don't know if a 2 x 16x PCI-E setup would result in a higher bench score, but if it does, I believe I saw an A8N32-SLI Deluxe for sale for a pittance in the For Sale section.

Disclaimer: I'm not affiliated with the seller in any way.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Death Dealer*


Yes that is in SLI unfortunetly with 2 8800GTS's clocked at 700/1650/2150 at 3.09ghz I think its this damn DFI I need to find a ASUS 16x16 and see if we can get that score to change for the better.

LINK


They are rare,but if you can find an DFI LANparty NF4 Expert they are 16 x 16 SLI. Took me 5 months to track one down and for 939 they are one of the best you can get.


----------



## Death Dealer

I saw that one but was afraid of the dead dimm slot I want to run 1T but I already PM'ed him last night still waiting on a reply from him if dimm 3 or 4 is shot we will see.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


They are rare,but if you can find an DFI LANparty NF4 Expert they are 16 x 16 SLI. Took me 5 months to track one down and for 939 they are one of the best you can get.


Oh really?

Dang.

I kept the wrong one for myself, then. That bloody thlnk3r has my old UT LANParty nF4 SLI Expert now.

Oh wait. No he doesn't.

Never mind...


----------



## Poser

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


They are rare,but if you can find an DFI LANparty NF4 Expert they are 16 x 16 SLI. Took me 5 months to track one down and for 939 they are one of the best you can get.



I scored mine off of newegg... and to this day, that is my best online purchase...ever...

I <3 my expert


----------



## dskina

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Mmmm, good combo right there. I've always liked my KN8-SLI. It's one of those great underrated boards that nobody knows about.

dskina, is that Sandy still OCed today? I'll accept a screenshot from it, even if it's your brother's rig now. Heck, I'll put you in even if it's not OCed.










It definitely is a very nice board. I'll have a cpu-z and stuff tomorrow


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dskina*


It definitely is a very nice board. I'll have a cpu-z and stuff tomorrow










Good deal!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Poser*


I scored mine off of newegg... and to this day, that is my best online purchase...ever...

I <3 my expert










me too, as soon as I got it to post I was able to hit a stable 3Ghz OC right of the bat. I was also able to post and run programs at 3.1Ghz "not Orthos,OCCT" stable.







They are great and did you notice the added power connector for the SLI?


----------



## Poser

All of this 939 love is just driving me to plot, conspire and finagle my way over the 3.0ghz barrier...

I have booted this chip into vista @ 3.2ghz, but it was about as stable as britney spears. I think, though, that I am learning that these HZ's prefer to hover at DDR500 and no more... that and the mem controller on these chips can get saturated with a quickness with UCCC ICs


----------



## Death Dealer

I notice its a common fact with all my processors that my ram even though can run 550mhz it doesn't like to be over 500mhz.

I can't find any info saying the DFI expert supports 16x16 anyone want to help me out??????????


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Poser*


All of this 939 love is just driving me to plot, conspire and finagle my way over the 3.0ghz barrier...


I think it's AWESOME there are still people who still dig S939.







It brings warm feelings to my dark heart.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Poser*


*I have booted this chip into vista @ 3.2ghz, but it was about as stable as britney spears. *


Best quote *EVARrrrr!*


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Poser*


All of this 939 love is just driving me to plot, conspire and finagle my way over the 3.0ghz barrier...

I have booted this chip into vista @ 3.2ghz, but it was about as stable as britney spears. I think, though, that I am learning that these HZ's prefer to hover at DDR500 and no more... that and the mem controller on these chips can get saturated with a quickness with UCCC ICs



yeah,I'm kind of disappointed in those chips as well. I tried upping the Volts,but it's a no go for stability. I can run them over DDR500 but the timing have to be very loose.


----------



## Oscuro

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Death Dealer*


Not in 3dmark06 you won't LOL First beat this score I think right now I am holding the lead for 939

LINK

Pioneer Download Core Temp my bios says I get 45c on boot but according to Core Temp each core is only at 23C


Will try!
When I get my ram...and probably a new HSF other thank stock for the CPU.
I've got what should be a solid foundation, now I just need to get the rest of it all together and cranking out some hopefully, good....if not great OC's.

I mean, with my old 3200+....it didn't even want to run 3dmark06!

Course...I am tempted to just go ridiculous and get a second GTX, but I think I'll run it solo then sell it to help fund the purchase of a new crazy card.


----------



## Poser

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Death Dealer*


I notice its a common fact with all my processors that my ram even though can run 550mhz it doesn't like to be over 500mhz.

I can't find any info saying the DFI expert supports 16x16 anyone want to help me out??????????


Unfortunately... I am pretty sure that my board does not. As I recall, when I was looking at a new 939 board, only the A8N32-SLI supported 16 x 16....

Also... my HZs (I have 4 matching pairs) absolutely refuse to run all four in my DFI...


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Death Dealer*


I notice its a common fact with all my processors that my ram even though can run 550mhz it doesn't like to be over 500mhz.

I can't find any info saying the DFI expert supports 16x16 anyone want to help me out??????????


I was mistaken.Here's a linky Oh well


----------



## Death Dealer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Oscuro*


Will try!
When I get my ram...and probably a new HSF other thank stock for the CPU.
I've got what should be a solid foundation, now I just need to get the rest of it all together and cranking out some hopefully, good....if not great OC's.

I mean, with my old 3200+....it didn't even want to run 3dmark06!

Course...I am tempted to just go ridiculous and get a second GTX, but I think I'll run it solo then sell it to help fund the purchase of a new crazy card.


I would love to have a GTS vs GTX show down me vs you just for fun I love competion I can run against I don't hold a candle to AM2 or C2Q machines LOL I found a home LOL


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


yeah,I'm kind of disappointed in those chips as well. I tried upping the Volts,but it's a no go for stability. I can run them over DDR500 but the timing have to be very loose.


Well... with some experiments I ran a while ago (several months ago), I found that, once you get beyond a certain point, the extra MHz you get from RAM actually helps you more than the tight timings do.

I think that the ICs in the RAM make a huge impact, as well. Case in point: In my gaming rig, I run DDR500 Mushkin Redline XP4000s. This RAM has Infineon CE-5s, and I've run them all the way up to DDR560 (280MHz). Timings at that speed were at 3-4-4-8-1T. When I had the RAM running 1:1 with the HTT Clock (FSB), that rig made its fastest-ever SuperPi runs (high 26 minute runs for 32M, as I recall). The only problem was, I couldn't run any 3D apps (games, 3DMark06, etc.) with any stability. So I had to slap a divider on the RAM.

So, I guess what I'm trying to say is a lot of testing is required to know precisely what your kit will do. You may think you know what it will do, but testing will show you for sure what a component's true capabilities are.


----------



## Death Dealer

Also CoolerMaster GeminII FTW PPL best cooler for the AMD 939 IMHO!!!!!!!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Well... with some experiments I ran a while ago (several months ago), I found that, once you get beyond a certain point, the extra MHz you get from RAM actually helps you more than the tight timings do.

I think that the ICs in the RAM make a huge impact, as well. Case in point: In my gaming rig, I run DDR500 Mushkin Redline XP4000s. This RAM has Infineon CE-5s, and I've run them all the way up to DDR560 (280MHz). Timings at that speed were at 3-4-4-8-1T. When I had the RAM running 1:1 with the HTT Clock (FSB), that rig made its fastest-ever SuperPi runs (high 26 minute runs for 32M, as I recall). The only problem was, I couldn't run any 3D apps (games, 3DMark06, etc.) with any stability. So I had to slap a divider on the RAM.

So, I guess what I'm trying to say is a lot of testing is required to know precisely what your kit will do. You may think you know what it will do, but testing will show you for sure what a component's true capabilities are.


I do have the read that thread on RAM,but I understand. I am still tinkering with it right now. I'm at 3-4-4-8 T1 currently. The subtimings are a pain...grrrr but on SuperPi I was a shave 1 sec off the 1M run. I believe it's at 28 seconds right now. I'll have to check when i get home.


----------



## Oscuro

Heh, it's on Death!
Now....where was my credit card again?!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Poser*


Unfortunately... I am pretty sure that my board does not. As I recall, when I was looking at a new 939 board, only the A8N32-SLI supported 16 x 16....

Also... my HZs (I have 4 matching pairs) absolutely refuse to run all four in my DFI...


The only other S939 motherboard that I know about that has 2 x 16x PCI-E slots was the MSI K8N Diamond Plus, a rather rare motherboard as far as I know. I see a few on eBay from time to time, but I've never owned one nor played with one.

Also, please welcome justedbin into the group!

Roster and links on first post updated.

Oops. Moronic me.

I forgot that the Abit AN8-32X was also a 2 x 16x SLI motherboard.

Maybe that'll be an interesting project for this group here: A small database of S939 motherboards detailing their chipsets and other interesting elements, including commentary from users of said motherboards.

What do you guys think?


----------



## Death Dealer

LOL I will have to do some overtime an buy another $130 EK waterblock for my second GTS LOL. Who thinks I should buy that ASUS 16x16 in the 4 sale section???? I am really curious LOL.


----------



## Poser

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


So, _*I guess what I'm trying to say is a lot of testing is required to know precisely what your kit will do*_. You may think you know what it will do, but testing will show you for sure what a component's true capabilities are.


QFT

Test, test, test again...and then test some more. If it isn't broken, then you just aint trying hard enough.


----------



## Death Dealer

txtmstrjoe you forgot my 165 LOL I will dig it up LOL

this is the highest stable clock at 1.5v on the 165 CCBBE on watercooling loop with 120mm rad and 80mm rad

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=307353

Also iandroo88 I didn't know you had a Toledo X2 I think you should be able to get more out of that has the same core revision as my 3800 x2 we may be able to get you to 3ghz son LOL TTYL guy nighty night time


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Death Dealer* 
txtmstrjoe you forgot my 165 LOL I will dig it up LOL

this is the highest stable clock at 1.5v on the 165 CCBBE on watercooling loop with 120mm rad and 80mm rad

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=307353

Sorry, bro. My bad!

I've added it to our roster.

By the way, I added some info to Post 106 regarding SLI x16 S939 boards.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
The only other S939 motherboard that I know about that has 2 x 16x PCI-E slots was the MSI K8N Diamond Plus, a rather rare motherboard as far as I know. I see a few on eBay from time to time, but I've never owned one nor played with one.

Also, please welcome justedbin into the group!

Roster and links on first post updated.

Oops. Moronic me.

I forgot that the Abit AN8-32X was also a 2 x 16x SLI motherboard.

Maybe that'll be an interesting project for this group here: A small database of S939 motherboards detailing their chipsets and other interesting elements, including commentary from users of said motherboards.

What do you guys think?

Think we should have pic's with data sheets to go with each Mobo? Pro's and Cons.

As far as the Expert running SLI 8x8, It really isn't going to hurt it. Most systems really only run at 8x8 on SLI anyways. I'm fairly certain thats the case, atleast from what I have read on it.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Think we should have pic's with data sheets to go with each Mobo? Pro's and Cons.

Good idea, though I have a few concerns, including using possible copyrighted material (the pictures, if we don't use our own pictures) as well as the format of said data sheets. Not insurmountable, though. It's a good idea, for sure.

Alright, my friends, I've got work in the morning. Have a great evening, y'all!


----------



## Death Dealer

I am come in for one last post I am sending an email for that 16x16 we will see if it craps out oh well I am out some money I always am so I don't care.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Good idea, though I have a few concerns, including using possible copyrighted material (the pictures, if we don't use our own pictures) as well as the format of said data sheets. Not insurmountable, though. It's a good idea, for sure.

Alright, my friends, I've got work in the morning. Have a great evening, y'all!









as far as the pics are concerned,any image on an editorial site or from the manufacturer will be legal. The same for the data sheets,which we can get from the manufacturer as well. Have a good'in!

Code:



Code:


[CODE]

 [B]DFI LANPARTY UT NF4 SLI-DR Expert [/B]

[B] CPU[/B]

# AMDÂ® Athlon 64 X2 / Athlon 64 FX / Athlon 64 / Sempron / Opteron

# Socket 939

  [B]Front Side Bus[/B]

# 2000MT/s HyperTransport interface

  [B]Chipset[/B]

# NVIDIA nForce4 SLI - Supports NVIDIA SLI (Scalable Link Interface)

  [B]Memory[/B]

# Four 184-pin DDR SDRAM DIMM sockets

# Supports dual channel (128-bit wide) memory interface

# Supports up to 4GB system memory

# Supports PC2100 (DDR266), PC2700 (DDR333) and PC3200 (DDR400) DDR SDRAM DIMM

  [B]SLI / Single VGA Mode[/B]

# SLI mode - Use 2 SLI-ready PCI Express x16 graphics cards (use identical cards) on the PCI Express x16 slots. - Each x16 slot operates at x8 bandwidth. When the graphics cards are connected via the SLI bridge, the total bandwidth of the two graphics cards is x16.

# Single VGA mode - 1 PCI Express graphics card on the PCIE1 slot operates at x16 bandwidth. - The other PCI Express x16 slot (PCIE4) operates at x2 bandwidth.

  [B]Expansion Slots[/B]

# 2 PCI Express x16 slots

# 1 PCI Express x1 slot

# 1 PCI Express x4 slot

# 3 PCI slots

  [B]BIOS[/B]

# Award BIOS

# CMOS Reloaded

# CPU/DRAM overclocking

# CPU/DRAM/Chipset overvoltage

# 4Mbit flash memory

  [B]Audio[/B]

# Karajan audio module - Realtek ALC850 8-channel ACâ€™97 audio CODEC - 6 audio jacks - 1 CD-in connector - 1 front audio connector

# True stereo line level outputs

# S/PDIF-in/out interface

[B]Power Management[/B]

# Supports ACPI STR (Suspend to RAM) function

# Wake-On-Events include: - Wake-On-PS/2 Keyboard/Mouse - Wake-On-USB Keyboard/Mouse - Wake-On-LAN - RTC timer to power-on the system

# AC power failure recovery

  [B]Hardware Monitor[/B]

# Monitors CPU/system/chipset temperature

# Monitors 12V/5V/3.3V/Vcore/Vbat/5Vsb/Vchipset/Vdram voltages

# Monitors the speed of the CPU fan, Fan 2 and Fan 3 fan

# CPU Overheat Protection function monitors CPU temperature during system boot-up

  [B]LAN[/B]

# Dual Gigabit LAN - Vitesse VSC8201 Gigabit Phy and Marvell 88E8001 Gigabit PCI

# Fully compliant to IEEE 802.3 (10BASE-T), 802.3u (100BASE-TX) and 802.3ab (1000BASE-T) standards

  [B]IDE[/B]

# Supports two IDE connectors that allows connecting up to four UltraDMA 133Mbps hard drives

# NVIDIA RAID allows RAID arrays spanning across Serial ATA and Parallel ATA

# RAID 0, RAID 1, RAID 0+1 and JBOD

  [B]Serial ATA with RAID[/B]

# Four Serial ATA ports supported by the nForce4 SLI chip - SATA speed up to 3Gb/s - RAID 0, RAID 1, RAID 0+1 and JBOD - NVIDIA RAID allows RAID arrays spanning across Serial ATA and Parallel ATA

# Four Serial ATA ports supported by the Silicon Image Sil 3114 chip - SATA speed up to 1.5Gb/s - RAID 0, RAID 1, RAID 0+1 and RAID 5

  [B]IEEE 1394[/B]

# VIA VT6307

# Supports two 100/200/400 Mb/sec ports

  [B]Rear Panel I/O Ports[/B]

# 1 mini-DIN-6 PS/2 mouse port

# 1 mini-DIN-6 PS/2 keyboard port

# 2 S/PDIF RCA jacks (S/PDIF-in and S/PDIF-out)

# Karajan audio module (6 audio jacks)

# 1 IEEE 1394 port

# 2 RJ45 LAN ports

# 6 USB 2.0/1.1 ports

  [B]I/O Connectors[/B]

# 2 connectors for 4 additional external USB 2.0/1.1 ports

# 1 connector for 1 external IEEE 1394 port

# 1 connector for 1 external serial port

# 1 connector for the Karajan audio module

# 1 front audio connector for external line-out and mic-in jacks (on the Karajan audio module)

# 1 CD-in internal audio connector (on the Karajan audio module)

# 1 S/PDIF connector for optical cable connection

# 1 IrDA connector

# 8 Serial ATA connectors

# 2 IDE connectors

# 1 floppy connector

# 1 24-pin ATX power connector

# 1 8-pin ATX 12V power connector

# 1 4-pin 5V/12V power connector (FDD type)

# 1 front panel connector

# 5 fan connectors

# 4 diagnostic LEDs

# EZ touch switches (power switch and reset switch)

  [B]PCB[/B]

# ATX form factor

# 24cm (9.45") x 30.5cm (12") All specifications above are subject to change without prior notice.

[/CODE]


----------



## pioneerisloud

I think we're forgetting a rather important 939 motherboard that DOES support true x16 x16 SLI. The ASUS A8N32-SLI Deluxe!!!! C'mon, you know this board does it!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I think we're forgetting a rather important 939 motherboard that DOES support true x16 x16 SLI. The ASUS A8N32-SLI Deluxe!!!! C'mon, you know this board does it!

That was a rather pricey Mobo when it came out wasn't it?


----------



## nuklearwax

Hit 2.7Ghz tonight!







Only took two beers to get to it. Good thing too I've only got one more left in the fridge.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I think we're forgetting a rather important 939 motherboard that DOES support true x16 x16 SLI. The ASUS A8N32-SLI Deluxe!!!! C'mon, you know this board does it!

Yeaah Asus A8N32-SLI ftw


----------



## Soya

You can add me to the list:


----------



## GuardianOdin

I'd kill for a 14 multiplier


----------



## RuSo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


RuSo, mighty impressive OC with that San Diego!

Is that rig still alive?

And what cooling did you use to get that OC?


yes the cpu still runs in another system,







i had a TT bigwater block on the naked core, it was alot of fun ocing it.
I still miss it in single threaded applications (crysis sucks







).


----------



## GuardianOdin

I wanna go naked,but I'm shy. Maybe if I have some watercooling to dip into to


----------



## Mike-O

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Mike-O, do you happen to know the stepping of that 3800+?


No, but is there a way to find out with some software?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Death Dealer*


Whoa man Toledo is the best core overall for the X2 I got lucky with my Toledo is a 3ghz processor but you need volts and high preformance ram.

3800 X2 at 3ghz is ortho stable for 3hours+ at 1.475v and PC-4400 at 500mhz (1T) at stock timings 3-3-3-8 you have to downclock your ram in some cases also running 2.85v to the ram for added stablilty memtest tested. Have not had it crash yet. What is funny is my DFI board could not get more than 2.75ghz out of it





















. But my extra EVGA, and Biostar NF4 SLI's run it TITS
























Volts i got, but I can't call my current ram "high performance".

Should get a 2Gb pair of your XMS PC4400, if it exists..

About your volts.. Isn't it bad for the CPU if you go over 1.45V, shortens it's lifespan a lot. I just remember that from somewhere..


----------



## Pap3r

Hehe. Here's a funny story.

I was ocing my 4600 yesterday when I changed the FSB to 260, from 230, and I put my RAM to 333MHz, so I would get a nice 30~MHz overclock. I restarted and to my amazement, the computer wouldn't boot! But I had just done these settings! 261 FSB * 10! Why wouldn't it boot?! Luckily, I could get into the bios. Unknowingly, I had forgotten to change the multiplier back down to 10







The BIOS said it was operating at 3132









Haha, if it booted I would have been astounded. Lucky I didn't blow my system up


----------



## Iconoclast

I got my Opty 165 to hit just under 3hz at 2.97. Tried my hardest to hit 3, but she wouldn't do it.
My validation - I did manage to get some pretty decent latencies out the ram at this speed.
I haven't tested to see if she's stable yet, going to do that now. Honestly, I doubt I'll be keeping it at 2.97 24/7. I'll see if she's stable at 2.8. I had 18.5 hours of a stable run on Prime95 @ 2.7.

EDIT: I had this chip paired up with 2gb of Kingston Value ram just over a week ago and I couldn't get it to clock any higher than 2.56. Lesson learned: Ram plays a huge roll in overclocks.


----------



## Iconoclast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I think we're forgetting a rather important 939 motherboard that DOES support true x16 x16 SLI. The ASUS A8N32-SLI Deluxe!!!! C'mon, you know this board does it!


I love this board, but I thought it was @ 16/8 in sli... I'll have to check the manual, but I thought the nforce4 chipset only did 16/8.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mike-O*


No, but is there a way to find out with some software?


Unfortunately no, you actually have to take the CPU out. The is printed on the chip it's self,not coded.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

A quick welcome to nuklearwax, Soya, and Iconoclast!

And a quick thank you to GuardianOdin for providing that data on the DFI UT LANParty nF4! This may be a good template to follow for our motherboards writeup.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


A quick welcome to nuklearwax, Soya, and Iconoclast!

And a quick thank you to GuardianOdin for providing that data on the DFI UT LANParty nF4! This may be a good template to follow for our motherboards writeup.










welcome guys and thanks Joe!

I sure we can format the text better for the Data sheets. That was just a quickie to get something up. I'll grab the sheets for the DFI LANparty Ultra-D later on and the stepping to my AMD3500+ Venice I believe I had it at 2.5Ghz. It's been a years since I used it


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I'd also like to join....two different processor CPUz validations can be found in my sig.


Wow, I have the non-SLI version of your board, and I can barely get 300mhz FSB... WHAT AM I DOING WRONG!!!


----------



## Iconoclast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Wow, I have the non-SLI version of your board, and I can barely get 300mhz FSB... WHAT AM I DOING WRONG!!!


I can't say for certain, but value ram doesn't overclock as well as others do. Usually, using all 4 dimm slots doesn't bode well for clocking either. Try it with just 2 sticks of your 512 and see how far you can push it.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Wow, I have the non-SLI version of your board, and I can barely get 300mhz FSB... WHAT AM I DOING WRONG!!!


More likely than not, it's not you but the board. Not all boards are created equal.









I would test for a so-called "FSB Hole," where there's a range of HTT Clock ("FSB") frequencies that just don't work for whatever reason, but beyond which is more usable headroom. For example, I have a motherboard that didn't couldn't stay stable at, say 310MHz or so. I ran Max HTT Clock experiments and determined that from 310 - 318MHz were not usable, but that the board could stay stable up to maybe 360MHz.

I'm not saying all motherboards/chipsets exhibit this behavior, but if you persevere with your testing, you might yet unearth even more potential from your components.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *waqasr*


Im definitely in, but am i the only one with a single core here...dam i need a dual core opty...im not getting an x2 if it wont hit 3 ghz.







...and i wont get 2gb ram because i love my bh-5 too much










1.5-2-2-7....those are very nice timings









Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Wow, I have the non-SLI version of your board, and I can barely get 300mhz FSB... WHAT AM I DOING WRONG!!!


Nate, did you test the max HTT of the board yet?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I kept the wrong one for myself, then. That bloody thlnk3r has my old UT LANParty nF4 SLI Expert now.


Lol Joe, I have the NF4 ULTRA-DR...do you have the Expert? I can't remember







. My board only does 8x 8x SLI. PCIE-4 does 16x single.

Wow a lot of NICE overclocks here and benches. Very nice guys!


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
More likely than not, it's not you but the board. Not all boards are created equal.









I would test for a so-called "FSB Hole," where there's a range of HTT Clock ("FSB") frequencies that just don't work for whatever reason, but beyond which is more usable headroom. For example, I have a motherboard that didn't couldn't stay stable at, say 310MHz or so. I ran Max HTT Clock experiments and determined that from 310 - 318MHz were not usable, but that the board could stay stable up to maybe 360MHz.

I'm not saying all motherboards/chipsets exhibit this behavior, but if you persevere with your testing, you might yet unearth even more potential from your components.

can you explain how to find the hole.. i think my a8n32-sli has a hole around 260-270ish..


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
can you explain how to find the hole.. i think my a8n32-sli has a hole around 260-270ish..

Iandroo, try 275-280HTT and see if your able to POST at that speed.

Let us know

Good luck!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


can you explain how to find the hole.. i think my a8n32-sli has a hole around 260-270ish..


As thlnk3r says, aim for a higher frequency range than where you're stalling at.

One thing you can also try is to enable NB Overvolt in your BIOS.

Hope this helps you out, iandroo888!


----------



## Oscuro

Well, there goes another couple hundred bucks









Noctua NH-U9F on its way. Didn't feel exactly like getting a TRUE or Tuniq due to cost...and the bloody size of the things. And at some point, I'll get a second 92mm fan and strap it to the back of the HS for better performance.
As well, the Corsair 620HX, sata optical and 3 case fans....
Cooling for this comp should be fine. Now I just need my ram so I can get the DFI board up and running. Far too long has it been sitting in its anti-static tomb.
This Opteron is bored with stock speeds dammit!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Oscuro*


Well, there goes another couple hundred bucks









Noctua NH-U9F on its way. Didn't feel exactly like getting a TRUE or Tuniq due to cost...and the bloody size of the things. And at some point, I'll get a second 92mm fan and strap it to the back of the HS for better performance.
As well, the Corsair 620HX, sata optical and 3 case fans....
Cooling for this comp should be fine. Now I just need my ram so I can get the DFI board up and running. Far too long has it been sitting in its anti-static tomb.
This Opteron is bored with stock speeds dammit!


I'm a fan of Noctua's products. In fact, I've found that their NH-U12 performs just a touch worse than just a Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme, with maybe a 2 degree C max difference at peak load. You can't lose either way.


----------



## Oscuro

Ahhh....well then, you'll be happy to know that the 3 case fans are Noctua 120mm 1200rpm fans....


----------



## crashovride02

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
I do have the read that thread on RAM,but I understand. I am still tinkering with it right now. I'm at 3-4-4-8 T1 currently. The subtimings are a pain...grrrr but on SuperPi I was a shave 1 sec off the 1M run. I believe it's at 28 seconds right now. I'll have to check when i get home.

Hey Guardian; I noticed your rig is very similar to mine and was wondering what your secret was for making 3Ghz? I have been there but it was VERY unstable. What was your biggest hurdle in making 3Ghz? Any help would be greatly appreciated from you or anyone else who may have some good stuff!!


----------



## savagebunny

Boom Barebone stock...


----------



## crashovride02

Quote:


Originally Posted by *savagebunny* 
Boom Barebone stock...









OC that thing! Lets see what it can do!!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Oscuro* 
Ahhh....well then, you'll be happy to know that the 3 case fans are Noctua 120mm 1200rpm fans....

Oscuro, I have one of those on my TR SI-128







. I love it!


----------



## Oscuro

Heh, now I just need to find a second 92mm Noctua fan to slap on the opposite side of the HSF....Damned NCIX was sold out of the 92mm!

I'm so used to stock coolers and loud PSU's...this thing is going to be eerily quiet for me...


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


As thlnk3r says, aim for a higher frequency range than where you're stalling at.

One thing you can also try is to enable NB Overvolt in your BIOS.

Hope this helps you out, iandroo888!


hmm. okie dokie!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Oscuro*


Well, there goes another couple hundred bucks









Noctua NH-U9F on its way. Didn't feel exactly like getting a TRUE or Tuniq due to cost...and the bloody size of the things. And at some point, I'll get a second 92mm fan and strap it to the back of the HS for better performance.
As well, the Corsair 620HX, sata optical and 3 case fans....
Cooling for this comp should be fine. Now I just need my ram so I can get the DFI board up and running. Far too long has it been sitting in its anti-static tomb.
This Opteron is bored with stock speeds dammit!


refering to the cooler master hyper tx 2 i have. its a cheap heatsink. i got it for iunoe. less than $10. I did some modifications to it. removed the stock fan. took off that plastic cap thing.. put a 80mm (didnt have a bigger one) on by custom fan clips. did good. load temps went from low 60s to mid 50s. i was reading somewhere you could put a secondary fan on the other side of a heatsink. so i tried that. making the heatsink have two 80mm delta fans on it. guess what. dropped another 5C on load. around 49 - 52C load!. it will help! trust me! works for a cheapo hsf like mine.. bound to work for better ones


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crashovride02*


Hey Guardian; I noticed your rig is very similar to mine and was wondering what your secret was for making 3Ghz? I have been there but it was VERY unstable. What was your biggest hurdle in making 3Ghz? Any help would be greatly appreciated from you or anyone else who may have some good stuff!!










Hmmm...well when I was running the DFI LANparty Ultra-D I couldn't get stable at 3Ghz. When I upgraded to the Expert Mobo I was able to maintain the 3Ghz. I honestly believe the Mobo has alot to do with the stability.

For you I would try loosening your RAM to 3-5-5-8 T1 and leave the sub-timings on auto for now. I'm not sure on your Opty steppings but that has a lot to do with that magic 3Ghz.


----------



## iandroo888

i just noticed.. my NB was already over-volted... >_>


----------



## crashovride02

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Hmmm...well when I was running the DFI LANparty Ultra-D I couldn't get stable at 3Ghz. When I upgraded to the Expert Mobo I was able to maintain the 3Ghz. I honestly believe the Mobo has alot to do with the stability.

For you I would try loosening your RAM to 3-5-5-8 T1 and leave the sub-timings on auto for now. I'm not sure on your Opty steppings but that has a lot to do with that magic 3Ghz.


According to this my stepping is the most consistent for 3Ghz but that doesn't always mean it's for sure. What kind of voltage are you running? I have tried to loosen my timings but it hasn't worked very well. I also have trouble running some of my dividers. I will try some things tonight and post back here! Thanks for the info.


----------



## iandroo888

hmm i just tried 275 x 10 @ 1.45, NB overvolt, HT link 3x, memclock @ 166MHz. Wont even post. gotta reset cmos now >_>


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Oscuro*


Ahhh....well then, you'll be happy to know that the 3 case fans are Noctua 120mm 1200rpm fans....


Oscuro, I dub thee "Fan of Noctua Fans."

nyuk nyuk nyuk nyuk


----------



## iandroo888

hmm i dont think its a voltage issue. im pushing 1.5V into it and it still doesnt work. lol


----------



## Oscuro

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Oscuro, I dub thee "Fan of Noctua Fans."

nyuk nyuk nyuk nyuk











Just so long as I don't paint my case cream and crimson, everything is fine


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


hmm i dont think its a voltage issue. im pushing 1.5V into it and it still doesnt work. lol


Question: Have you tested for your subsystems' respective maximum potentials (i.e., HTT Clock - motherboard - max frequency, CPU max frequency, RAM max frequency)? It could be a simple matter of the CPU hitting its hard wall on air cooling.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crashovride02*


According to this my stepping is the most consistent for 3Ghz but that doesn't always mean it's for sure. What kind of voltage are you running? I have tried to loosen my timings but it hasn't worked very well. I also have trouble running some of my dividers. I will try some things tonight and post back here! Thanks for the info.











I'm running 1.425V with special vid at 109%


----------



## nuklearwax

I think my board supports 2 x 16 PCI-E slots in Crossfire. It has the 3200 Xpress chip a.k.a. 580x. http://www.uabit.com/index.php?optio...ge=2&model=311


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


hmm i just tried 275 x 10 @ 1.45, NB overvolt, HT link 3x, memclock @ 166MHz. Wont even post. gotta reset cmos now >_>


Iandroo, I might of already asked this but was it the max HTT that your board can handle?

EDIT: Oops joe just asked that question


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


I'm running 1.425V with special vid at 109%


That's high VCore!









Let's see... some rough math...

10% of 1.425 is .14.

So... 1.425 + .14 = 1.565V roughly!

Is that what CPU-Z (or any other software) reports back as VCore in the OS, Guardian?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nuklearwax*


I think my board supports 2 x 16 PCI-E slots in Crossfire. It has the 3200 Xpress chip a.k.a. 580x. http://www.uabit.com/index.php?optio...ge=2&model=311


Indeed it does, nuklearwax!

Question for you: How was your OCing experience with this board? I had an interesting time with mine. LOL


----------



## Iconoclast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nuklearwax*


I think my board supports 2 x 16 PCI-E slots in Crossfire.


Yes it does.


----------



## iandroo888

the Asus A8N32-SLI Deluxe is known to be able to get to high FSB. last time i did a test, i was about to boot at approx 343FSB.

most likely.. highest possibility is jsut cpu hitting a wall. period. lol. manchesters arent known to be good overclockers. but i just fail to accept the truth ;] and want to prove something thats not possible haha


----------



## nuklearwax

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


How was your OCing experience with this board? I had an interesting time with mine. LOL


 So far it's been fairly easy but I haven't got into the real serious numbers yet. I like the feature in the Guru that if your overclock settings caused a reboot it automatically resets the bios to your last stable setting. No more manually clearing the bios. The only problem i have is when running at max load under Orthos the PWN overheats after about 10min. The manual say it's the power management for the CPU. So I'm going to be looking for it on the board to see if really is overheating or a bad sensor.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
the Asus A8N32-SLI Deluxe is known to be able to get to high FSB. last time i did a test, i was about to boot at approx 343FSB.

most likely.. highest possibility is jsut cpu hitting a wall. period. lol. manchesters arent known to be good overclockers. but i just fail to accept the truth ;] and want to prove something thats not possible haha

Aye, that is one honey of a motherboard. I love mine to death.

I agree with your analysis here; your tests do suggest that it's likely the CPU's wall you're hitting. Good call.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *nuklearwax* 
So far it's been fairly easy but I haven't got into the real serious numbers yet. I like the feature in the Guru that if your overclock settings caused a reboot it automatically resets the bios to your last stable setting. No more manually clearing the bios. The only problem i have is when running at max load under Orthos the PMW overheats after about 10min. The manual say it's the power management for the CPU. So I'm going to be looking for it on the board to see if really is overheating or a bad sensor.

nuklearwax, good to hear you're having a good time with yours. How high have you been able to take your HTT clock to? My board just topped out at 305MHz. (If you wish, you can read about my frustrations with this board here.)

What's funny, though, is that ever since I set the board up for Crossfire (by acquiring an X1950XT Master Card), the system suddenly and inexplicably feels so much better. I don't know how to explain it, except to offer an analogy: How much better do you feel after you, um, sit on the throne after feeling all bloated and crampy in the tummy? This system feels like that now, and I'm wondering about whether or not I should push it harder now.

As far as the PWMs go, these are typically the hottest parts of the board. I routinely see around 70 degs C on my AT8-32X. Having a spot cooler, or an HSF that blows on the PWMs, ought to help in terms of stability.


----------



## BinaryDemon

Oh forgot about the signup part... Please add me as a member of the 939 club.

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=314235

I have hit 2.6 ghz stable, but the tempatures were a little high for my stock fan (~60 C) so I decided not to push it. Maybe when its not my primary system, I'll push it harder.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Our unholy horde grows!

Welcome to BinaryDemon!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well I've got an update on my fiance's rig (I believe its still the rig in my sig).

100% stable at 2.60GHz with RAM at 217MHz 2.5,3,3,7,2T. And I'm using all 4 dimm slots







. Also the CPU is getting a massive 1.50v through her. I'm going to push it to 2.66GHz (I know for a fact 2.7 is unstable). Maybe I can wrestle her stable at 2.66? I'll have to knock the memory down some, but that means tighter timings







! Wish me luck guys!

I'd also like to make note, I would have a proof of the stability at the current point...but I've been at work all day, and my fiance quit Orthos and all that stuff so she could play her freakin pogo! So no proof yet, but it will come I promise!

BTW...thinker, I HATE THAT FREAKIN MSI BOARD!!! ITS BETTER THAN MINE!!! Ok, /rant!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

ROFL

Pogo?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
ROFL

Pogo?










Yes...pogo! She had to quit Orthos so she could play her freakin pogo! Once she see's Crysis running on her rig...I have a feeling I'll convert her to real games! She loves FEAR...so I see Bioshock and Crysis being in her near future gaming experience! But yeah it just ticks me off that she stopped a perfectly good Orthos run to do freakin pogo! Oh well.....next time I'll make sure I don't work the next day so I can WATCH her stupid computer so she doesn't screw with it till I'm done with it, lol.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Yes...pogo! She had to quit Orthos so she could play her freakin pogo! Once she see's Crysis running on her rig...I have a feeling I'll convert her to real games! She loves FEAR...so I see Bioshock and Crysis being in her near future gaming experience! But yeah it just ticks me off that she stopped a perfectly good Orthos run to do freakin pogo! Oh well.....next time I'll make sure I don't work the next day so I can WATCH her stupid computer so she doesn't screw with it till I'm done with it, lol.

pioneer, you never fail to make me ROFL.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
pioneer, you never fail to make me ROFL.









Well...I do what I can







!


----------



## Death Dealer

Hey I bought that Asus A8N32-SLI Deluxe in the 4 sale section we are going to see if 8x8 is no different than 16x16 to put everybody's minds at ease

Test Platform
Opteron 165 ccbbe at 3ghz 1.45v and 3x HTT
2gb of OCZ Platnium DDR-400 Overclocked to 545mhz 3-3-3-8 1T
2-8800GTS 640mb overclock to 650/1600/2100
*DFI Lan Party NF4 SLI-DR* vs *Asus A8N32-SLI Deluxe*

Benchmarks to come


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Death Dealer* 
Hey I bought that Asus A8N32-SLI Deluxe in the 4 sale section we are going to see if 8x8 is no different than 16x16 to put everybody's minds at ease

Test Platform
Opteron 165 ccbbe at 3ghz 1.45v and 3x HTT
2gb of OCZ Platnium DDR-400 Overclocked to 545mhz 3-3-3-8 1T
2-8800GTS 640mb overclock to 650/1600/2100
*DFI Lan Party NF4 SLI-DR* vs *Asus A8N32-SLI Deluxe*

Benchmarks to come

Looking forward to it! My vote goes to the ASUS







! But that's just cuz I LOVE that board. Altho that stupid MSI K8N Neo4 SLI is turning into one excellent board as well.


----------



## Death Dealer

I would almost put money on the ASUS I am thinking at least 12,500 but if it really isn't hyped up like it suppose to be it will score no higher than the DFI.

I should just go crazy but this will take sometime I will test all my NForce 4 SLI boards.

DFI Lan Party NF4 SLI-DR
Asus A8N32-SLI Deluxe
DFI LanParty NF4 ULTRA DR (SLI-MODDED)
Biostar TForce4 SLI
And my EVGA NF44 SLI mATX

I think that is all of them LOL

*txtmstrjoe* you should make this a Poll on the thread kind of like betting LOL


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Death Dealer* 
Hey I bought that Asus A8N32-SLI Deluxe in the 4 sale section we are going to see if 8x8 is no different than 16x16 to put everybody's minds at ease

Test Platform
Opteron 165 ccbbe at 3ghz 1.45v and 3x HTT
2gb of OCZ Platnium DDR-400 Overclocked to 545mhz 3-3-3-8 1T
2-8800GTS 640mb overclock to 650/1600/2100
*DFI Lan Party NF4 SLI-DR* vs *Asus A8N32-SLI Deluxe*

Benchmarks to come

Sweet!

I, too, look forward to your findings.









I've got both boards, and love them both, actually. But I like the A8N32-SLI Deluxe a little more, if only because it was my first.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Death Dealer* 
I would almost put money on the ASUS I am thinking at least 12,500 but if it really isn't hyped up like it suppose to be it will score no higher than the DFI.

I should just go crazy but this will take sometime I will test all my NForce 4 SLI boards.

DFI Lan Party NF4 SLI-DR
Asus A8N32-SLI Deluxe
DFI LanParty NF4 ULTRA DR (SLI-MODDED)
Biostar TForce4 SLI
And my EVGA NF44 SLI mATX

I think that is all of them LOL

*txtmstrjoe* you should make this a Poll on the thread kind of like betting LOL

Hehe, a poll would be interesting, wouldn't it?

No betting for me, though. (I need to stick with a New Year's resolution, after all.)


----------



## Death Dealer

I will do mostly just 3dmark06 but if anybody would like any special benchmarks better let me know I will gladly do them which ever baord wins is going to be my new sig rig I can't wait.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Death Dealer*


Hey I bought that Asus A8N32-SLI Deluxe in the 4 sale section we are going to see if 8x8 is no different than 16x16 to put everybody's minds at ease


Well I can definitely tell you the difference between 2x PCI-E and 16x PCI-E(single card).

Using 3DMark06 for comparisons:

2x PCI-E Bandwidth: http://service.futuremark.com/result...eResultType=14 (8947)

16x PCI-E Bandwidth: http://service.futuremark.com/result...eResultType=14 (9693)

Clocks on the card are 725/900 (stock oc edition). Thats a 746 difference, very interesting


----------



## GuardianOdin

so what kind of SLI would I be looking if I got another XFX8800GT? 8x8 or 16x16 and would the difference be that horrible?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


so what kind of SLI would I be looking if I got another XFX8800GT? 8x8 or 16x16 and would the difference be that horrible?


I would take a guess and say that the difference the second card makes would make up for the 8x interface. I jumped up almost 4k 3DMarks I do believe...when I put SLI into my Opty rig (see my list of systems). That's with 1 8600GTS vs. 2 on my ASUS A8N32-SLI board. I believe I went from 62xx to 93xx in SLI. However I believe my board is also dual x16 interface if I'm not mistaken.

Update on the MSI rig:
Currently testing Orthos blended priority 5 @ 2.66GHz, 177MHz RAM, 1.50v...etc (the specs are in the sig right now).


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


so what kind of SLI would I be looking if I got another XFX8800GT? 8x8 or 16x16 and would the difference be that horrible?


On your board, it would be 2 x 8x.

There were very few 2 x 16x SLI S939 motherboards released. I'm not even all that sure if DFI had a 2 x 16x SLI board (but don't quote me on that).


----------



## dskina

Here we go: Sandy 4000+ @ 2.94, and bootable. I'll try to make it boot at at least 3ghz tomorrow.

Link


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Welcome, dskina!

Roster updated.


----------



## GuardianOdin

thanks for the info guys, I'm on the fence about getting a second card. Not sure how much my rig would benefit from given the bottleneck that two 8800GT's would have on the CPU and what not.


----------



## Death Dealer

I have enough Artic Silver to do 2 tests this weekend LOL. I will do the SLI-DR and the BIOSTAR


----------



## Oscuro

For some reason, I sort of doubt that a Opty 165 running at 3.0 Ghz is a bottleneck to anything. Sure, it isn't a C2D at 3.6ghz or a Quad, but I still doubt that it would be a bottleneck.
I mean, was there ever a bottleneck reported back in the days of the 7900/7950 SLI with AMD? I don't recall a review saying it, and while yes, the 8800GTX came out, I don't remember it being bottlenecked in SLI either, course, _I could very well be wrong/mistaken_. But seeing as how a pair of 8800GT's performs what, slight below SLI GTX's....I think you have only but gains, and if there is a bottleneck, it'd still be minor, and possibly worth the investment.
True bottlenecking I think might occur with the coming 9800GTX or whatever though....

Edit: Well, hell. Looks like I am wrong:
http://www.firingsquad.com/hardware/...ling/page5.asp


----------



## iandroo888

for sure if i got dual 8800gt's, my proc would bottleneck it. need to find an opty.. or a q6600.. lol..


----------



## Oscuro

Opty? Not exactly. Any S939 X2 that could OC to 2.8-3.0 ghz should/would make decent use of the SLI 8800GT's in some games, especially shader heavy games according to the review I just linked.
However, in some games, yes, the proc would be the bottleneck. Damn you Intel!


----------



## killerfromsky

here is my clawhammer!









http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=265953


----------



## Oscuro

Damn man, nice OC on that! 2.93 with 4 sicks of ram? Hell, you might be able to push it further with a 2x1 set of ram....
Still, just the same: Nice!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *killerfromsky*


here is my clawhammer!









http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=265953


nice OC!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Oscuro*


For some reason, I sort of doubt that a Opty 165 running at 3.0 Ghz is a bottleneck to anything. Sure, it isn't a C2D at 3.6ghz or a Quad, but I still doubt that it would be a bottleneck.
I mean, was there ever a bottleneck reported back in the days of the 7900/7950 SLI with AMD? I don't recall a review saying it, and while yes, the 8800GTX came out, I don't remember it being bottlenecked in SLI either, course, _I could very well be wrong/mistaken_. But seeing as how a pair of 8800GT's performs what, slight below SLI GTX's....I think you have only but gains, and if there is a bottleneck, it'd still be minor, and possibly worth the investment.
True bottlenecking I think might occur with the coming 9800GTX or whatever though....

Edit: Well, hell. Looks like I am wrong:
http://www.firingsquad.com/hardware/...ling/page5.asp


I am OC'ed to 3Ghz....meh I may get another 8800GT


----------



## Oscuro

....I am tempted to sell off the GTX and get a pair of GT's while the money is still....well, good. Damn temptation!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Lol, wish I could afford just one!


trust me,I'll be working overtime for it


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well heck while I'm at it....anybody in the 939 era any good at sleeving cables? I need a UV green 6pin PCIe adapter. Willing to pay you for it (be reasonable) or trade. Lol, I've already got a wanted thread up....just figured I'd ask fellow 939'ers if they can help a brotha out.


----------



## GuardianOdin

wish I could help,but my cable management sucks


----------



## Oscuro

http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-g...ing-guide.html

I think the PCI-E connectors use similar pins as the 4 pin CPU connector or the 20/24 pin power connector. Hell man, I'd come down and help you if it didn't cost like...over $100 just to get down there...and if I didn't need my non-existant passport...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Oscuro* 
http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-g...ing-guide.html

I think the PCI-E connectors use similar pins as the 4 pin CPU connector or the 20/24 pin power connector. Hell man, I'd come down and help you if it didn't cost like...over $100 just to get down there...and if I didn't need my non-existant passport...

I'm too terrified to try it myself, lol. Last time I tried to sleeve any cables, the PSU had to be thrown away because somewhere along the lines, something shorted. I'd rather be safe than sorry and just buy one or have some1 make it for me and ship it, lol. Thanks for the link tho...I've bookmarked it and will read it later. Maybe it'll help me understand what I did wrong last time! Have a cookie.


----------



## GuardianOdin

You can DO it!


----------



## Oscuro

Yay! I likes cookies!
Well....except for those evil cookies....those ones...that watch me...

Edit: Hell, help me find a better PSU than this Raidmax 580 for my roomate's build, and I'll send you this raidmax to practice on!

....I trust it not. Read several reviews about how they crap out after 13 months, sometimes badly. I can also watch the voltage fluctuate in the bios....>.> Not horrifically mind you, but still....its unsettling....


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Oscuro* 
Yay! I likes cookies!
Well....except for those evil cookies....those ones...that watch me...

Okay FINE!!! I'll stop watching you!!! You don't have to call me a cookie







.

Boobteron (haven't said that in a while).


----------



## Oscuro

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Okay FINE!!! I'll stop watching you!!! You don't have to call me a cookie







.

Boobteron (haven't said that in a while).

*laughs* Not you....those ones...that come from the dark corners of the web...that used to try and spy on me....until I got better anti-evil cookie protection...

*coughs*


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Oscuro* 
Yay! I likes cookies!
Well....except for those evil cookies....those ones...that watch me...

Edit: *Hell, help me find a better PSU than this Raidmax 580* for my roomate's build, and I'll send you this raidmax to practice on!

....I trust it not. Read several reviews about how they crap out after 13 months, sometimes badly. I can also watch the voltage fluctuate in the bios....>.> Not horrifically mind you, but still....its unsettling....

Well personally I'm fairly partial to Apevia PSU's. If you can find a nice generic looking (if you're going budget) 500w Apevia PSU.....I'd say go for it. I've ran 2 of them in the past (the budget 500w ones). One is still running to this day in my server (been on 24/7 for 3 years now), and the other was sold in a rig....and that customer hasn't called me yet to complain about it failing. All of my rigs currently run Apevia PSU's except my HTPC rig....just because modular was SOOO sexy for a HTPC case.


----------



## Oscuro

This is the Raidmax/Aurora RF-580 or whatever with the rounded corners of octagonal mesh. I think it's held in my 3 screws because one just would not screw it....oh...and it has a blue led fan...much dislike.
My roomate's rig, when I get around to kicking ass and getting my gear off someone will be an 3800+ x2 with a 7900 GT KO. So I should be safe with a 450watt psu.
Then I need to get a cheap 939 board, more DDR, and a cheap HD to build a box for a co-worker. Need to try and keep it under $200 so I can atleast break even on it.

....Apparently my builds spiral out of control....and branch into teritary builds on a whim.

I blame OCN.


----------



## boonie2

Great idea guyz







all i ever hear anymore is how 939s are DEAD TECH , while that may be true think ill just hold on to this dinosaur awhile longer







if i can ever get my screenshot to work ill send a validation shot .....till i do im running at 250x12 3.0 / 1000fsb / 1.424 vcore.....thanx again


----------



## txtmstrjoe

boonie2, to quote Darth Vader, "Join me, and I will complete your training. With our combined strength, we can end this destructive conflict and bring order to the Galaxy."

We await your official induction into our little club.







Just send in your validation shot, and before you know it, you're in! We'll even teach you a secret handshake.









(Of course, if you do send it in today, just be patient with me in officially adding you because I'll be at my parents' house attending my baby sister's baby shower today. But you'll be added, for sure.)

Also, thanks to everyone who make this a fun little club. It's only been a couple of days, but for sure it's been *GREAT*. It's happening exactly as I'd hoped it would; it's been informative AND tons of fun. And it's all because of YOU guys.









Lastly, the roster has been updated. Welcome, killerfromsky. Great OC on that Clawhammer, as the guys have already said.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Well personally I'm fairly partial to Apevia PSU's. If you can find a nice generic looking (if you're going budget) 500w Apevia PSU.....I'd say go for it. I've ran 2 of them in the past (the budget 500w ones). One is still running to this day in my server (been on 24/7 for 3 years now), and the other was sold in a rig....and that customer hasn't called me yet to complain about it failing. All of my rigs currently run Apevia PSU's except my HTPC rig....just because modular was SOOO sexy for a HTPC case.


if anything, you could go to Ultra. i was kinda iffy on getting their psu's at first because they were goin for FREE after rebate. but believe it or not, they work really well. id say they were a decent company for the price you pay! psu looks pretty nice too! shiny mirror black but i dont really like the "flexforce" cables... not so flexible imo haha


----------



## savagebunny

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crashovride02*


OC that thing! Lets see what it can do!!


















Sry I can't This was a Pre-built Comp..


----------



## Mr. Mojo

I finally got CPUZ to work. I was having issues with any app that checked a sensor on this rig...turns out it's due to my video card. Anyway, here is the link.


----------



## Death Dealer

Hey guys I made the poll and new thread for my expirement come and poll it LOL

http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...enchmarks.html


----------



## iandroo888

hmm wish i had an opty to contribute to that thread =X


----------



## Damage82

Here's my issue, I was running my opty @ 2.2Ghz and the memory was like 199mhz. So I tried to get my CPU back up to the 2.8 I had before with different memory set-up. Now I can get my CPU to 2.6Ghz, but my memory is running at I believe 183-187mhz. Is the CPU speed increase worth the memory speed loss or am i better to work on a better OC with higher memory speed? thanks in advance.


----------



## sP00N

939 ftw!

Athlon 4400+ @2.8GHZ

cpu-z linky:
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=291680


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
boonie2, to quote Darth Vader, "Join me, and I will complete your training. With our combined strength, we can end this destructive conflict and bring order to the Galaxy."

We await your official induction into our little club.







Just send in your validation shot, and before you know it, you're in! We'll even teach you a secret handshake.









(Of course, if you do send it in today, just be patient with me in officially adding you because I'll be at my parents' house attending my baby sister's baby shower today. But you'll be added, for sure.)

Also, thanks to everyone who make this a fun little club. It's only been a couple of days, but for sure it's been *GREAT*. It's happening exactly as I'd hoped it would; it's been informative AND tons of fun. And it's all because of YOU guys.









Lastly, the roster has been updated. Welcome, killerfromsky. Great OC on that Clawhammer, as the guys have already said.









Thanx Joe , I did validate it thru CPUZs validation site , now if i can just get the link to work ill send it along....Congrats to LIL SIS ............ WISH HER ALL THE BEST


----------



## Death Dealer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Damage82*


Here's my issue, I was running my opty @ 2.2Ghz and the memory was like 199mhz. So I tried to get my CPU back up to the 2.8 I had before with different memory set-up. Now I can get my CPU to 2.6Ghz, but my memory is running at I believe 183-187mhz. Is the CPU speed increase worth the memory speed loss or am i better to work on a better OC with higher memory speed? thanks in advance.



A few mhz off your ram will give you stability with high clock and from what I know higher cpu freq equal better 3dmark06 score so if benching yes go for high clocks on cpu and little lower on ram but if you like SuperPI then Both need to be at there highest IMHO


----------



## Damage82

Not worried about benchmarking/scores. Just worried about gaming.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Damage82*


Not worried about benchmarking/scores. Just worried about gaming.


if your concerned about gamming performance , you might want to get a better GPU


----------



## Damage82

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


if your concerned about gamming performance , you might want to get a better GPU










 Burnnnnn.... LOL yeah, that is next on the list.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Damage82*


Burnnnnn.... LOL yeah, that is next on the list.


lol wasnt meant to be a burrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrn


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Damage82*


Here's my issue, I was running my opty @ 2.2Ghz and the memory was like 199mhz. So I tried to get my CPU back up to the 2.8 I had before with different memory set-up. Now I can get my CPU to 2.6Ghz, but my memory is running at I believe 183-187mhz. Is the CPU speed increase worth the memory speed loss or am i better to work on a better OC with higher memory speed? thanks in advance.


To answer your question:
CPU speed is king most of the time. I think the ONLY time it doesn't matter so much is SuperPi because you also have to have your RAM running nice and fast as well. My Opty rig used to run 3.0Ghz (333FSB) all day long with my Corsair Value RAM. However my RAM had to be ran at 166MHz (DDR333) because the next divider up made it unstable. That wasn't necessarily a bad thing though because I could run super tight timings. With 939's its USUALLY better to worry more about CPU speed than RAM speed. Then once you get that worked out....find the highest your RAM hits with your CPU at that speed....then tighten the timings as much as you can. A slightly lower clock on the RAM with tighter timings usually performs better than a higher clock with looser timings.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
To answer your question:
CPU speed is king most of the time. I think the ONLY time it doesn't matter so much is SuperPi because you also have to have your RAM running nice and fast as well. My Opty rig used to run 3.0Ghz (333FSB) all day long with my Corsair Value RAM. However my RAM had to be ran at 166MHz (DDR333) because the next divider up made it unstable. That wasn't necessarily a bad thing though because I could run super tight timings. With 939's its USUALLY better to worry more about CPU speed than RAM speed. Then once you get that worked out....find the highest your RAM hits with your CPU at that speed....then tighten the timings as much as you can. A slightly lower clock on the RAM with tighter timings usually performs better than a higher clock with looser timings.

If I could find some Ultra XL 2Gb kits that would be great. Man that RAM was mean. I could run DDR560 on them all day with no issues,they were just the 1Gb kit.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Wish I could find some RAM that could run DDR667 so I could go 1:1. I know...yeah right, that's not possible. It'd be neat though. Sometimes I wish my Opty was a AM2 socket just so I could use DDR2 RAM now, lol.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Wish I could find some RAM that could run DDR667 so I could go 1:1. I know...yeah right, that's not possible. It'd be neat though. Sometimes I wish my Opty was a AM2 socket just so I could use DDR2 RAM now, lol.

well the Ultra XL DDR400's are extremely rare and if you see a 2Gb kit.....BUY IT!!! you can run 3/2.5-3-3-5 T1 at DDR500 with those.


----------



## Death Dealer

My 2gb OCZ Platniums Pass MEMTest at 550mhz they were def worth the $130 Year and 1/2 ago. still around $100 to good investment for a DDR board if looking to go vista and keep your old tech


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Roster updated. Welcome, Mr. Mojo and sPOON!

boonie2: Since you're still rocking on your S939 rig, you obviously have a standing invitation to join the club!







A CPU-Z validation link or screenshot is all we need.









Good job, everyone! I see lots of good advice, and a real friendly vibe in here.

Feels like home, don't it?


----------



## crashovride02

Why can't I run Prime95? It stops within about 5-10 seconds with an error. My OC seems to be fine because ALL other benches I use and games I play all work fine. I NEVER get system freezes or anything. Has anyone else ever had this problem?


----------



## boonie2

cant figure out what the problem is adding a link for cpu validation or a screen shot the best i could do was post it in my PROFILE PICTURE......







is that enough? please , please lol


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *crashovride02* 
Why can't I run Prime95? It stops within about 5-10 seconds with an error. My OC seems to be fine because ALL other benches I use and games I play all work fine. I NEVER get system freezes or anything. Has anyone else ever had this problem?

crash, have you tried other stress testing applications like Orthos or OCCT? I hesitate to offer you the nastiest, most severe stress test that I know about, S&M v.1.90 (scroll down the page until you see it), which is known to *BREAK* weak parts.

I would try Orthos as a substitute to Prime95. However, if your rig still fails the stress test that quickly, then something is clearly amiss.

Let us know how it goes for you!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
cant figure out what the problem is adding a link for cpu validation or a screen shot the best i could do was post it in my profile picture......







is that enough? please , please lol

boonie2, you're in.







I just saw your profile picture. Welcome!


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
crash, have you tried other stress testing applications like Orthos or OCCT? I hesitate to offer you the nastiest, most severe stress test that I know about, S&M v.1.90 (scroll down the page until you see it), which is known to *BREAK* weak parts.

I would try Orthos as a substitute to Prime95. However, if your rig still fails the stress test that quickly, then something is clearly amiss.

Let us know how it goes for you!

boonie2, you're in.







I just saw your profile picture. Welcome!


----------



## Poser

Quote:


Originally Posted by *crashovride02* 
Why can't I run Prime95? It stops within about 5-10 seconds with an error. My OC seems to be fine because ALL other benches I use and games I play all work fine. I NEVER get system freezes or anything. Has anyone else ever had this problem?

It is very important bare in mind, that most synthetic benches, gaming benches and gaming software itself... will not push a system to its absolute limit. However, scientific benches or distributed computing benches, where there is no level of "acceptable" error will detect event the slightest level of instability.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Poser* 
It is very important bare in mind, that most synthetic benches, gaming benches and gaming software itself... will not push a system to its absolute limit. However, scientific benches or distributed computing benches, where there is no level of "acceptable" error will detect event the slightest level of instability.

Brilliant post, Poser.


----------



## Poser

@txtmstrjoe: Talk to me a little bit more about S&M, what makes it more severe than occt or prime. I am always looking for the greatest stress tester.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Poser* 
@txtmstrjoe: Talk to me a little bit more about S&M, what makes it more severe than occt or prime. I am always looking for the greatest stress tester.

It's a comprehensive batch of tests that puts your entire system -- CPU, RAM, HDD, GPU, even PSU -- through the wringer. S&M v.1.90 will test everything in your CPU, including the integrity of its L1 and L2 caches, the integer calculator, and the Floating Point Unit calculator. The FPU test, in particular, generates the absolute highest temps that I've ever observed in a stress test (for both Intels and AMDs, mind you; it's on a par with Intel's TAT). The difference in peak load temperatures generated is, on average, five degrees Centigrade higher on S&M than on any other stress test I know of. This is one reason why I deem it the ultimate stress test, as well; it will really tell you how good your thermals are.

There's a four-stage RAM test, though I cannot be more precise in the description of the tests. This is one test, though, which exposed a weakness in some parts I used to have. It literally *broke* a set of Corsair DDR500s I used to have; on the other hand, this same RAM kit never was able to run at advertised specs fresh from the box, so it had definite weaknesses and defects from the factory. S&M just pushed it over the edge.

The program tests your PSU, as well, by incorporating a GPU load test. I've never ever failed this test, so I cannot describe what would constitute a failure trigger. I suspect, though, that it will detect a severe load voltage drop and therefore indicate a test failure.

There is also a HDD test with three stages: "Interface;" "Surface;" and "Positioner."

Clearly, a comprehensive testing suite.









I've attached some screen shots, too, so you can have a look at it. The CPU test screens were taken a little over a month ago, but the RAM and HDD test screens were taken just now (which would explain the different desktop). These were done on my gaming rig, FYI.

Hope this helps!


----------



## Poser

that looks comprehensive to say the least... almost a compact sandra.

thank you sir

edit: v 1.91 is now available


----------



## BeOtCh

here is mine @ stock ofcourse http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=315444


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Poser* 
that looks comprehensive to say the least... almost a compact sandra.

thank you sir

edit: v 1.91 is now available

Oooh. Thanks for the info on the program update!









Quote:


Originally Posted by *BeOtCh* 
here is mine @ stock ofcourse http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=315444

BeOtCh, welcome!

Roster updated.


----------



## crashovride02

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
crash, have you tried other stress testing applications like Orthos or OCCT? I hesitate to offer you the nastiest, most severe stress test that I know about, S&M v.1.90 (scroll down the page until you see it), which is known to *BREAK* weak parts.

I would try Orthos as a substitute to Prime95. However, if your rig still fails the stress test that quickly, then something is clearly amiss.

Let us know how it goes for you!

boonie2, you're in.







I just saw your profile picture. Welcome!

Orthos failed in about 25sec. Mem test runs fine. What gives. Again, I have no other probelms with anything else. That is why have left it this way for a year now.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *crashovride02* 
Orthos failed in about 25sec. Mem test runs fine. What gives. Again, I have no other probelms with anything else. That is why have left it this way for a year now.

How much VCore are you running?

Have you run Small FFTs test? This will test just the CPU side of the OC. Blend tests CPU+RAM together.


----------



## crashovride02

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
How much VCore are you running?

Have you run Small FFTs test? This will test just the CPU side of the OC. Blend tests CPU+RAM together.

v-core is 1.4. I will try that now. Nope, still the same.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *crashovride02* 
v-core is 1.4. I will try that now. Nope, still the same.

Two options.

First thing I would try is to increase your VCore, one step at a time, until you can run Small FFTs for a minimum of eight hours (given that you're running your Orthos at Priority 1). Personally, I would keep on going for as long as possible just to see how relatively stable the CPU settings are. Obviously, the longer it keeps going, the closer to stability you are.

Your other option would be to slow the CPU down and maintain your VCore where it is. I suspect, though, given the relative quickness of the Orthos failure, that you'll have to reduce CPU speed by maybe 50-100MHz just to get stable (a minimum estimate, in my opinion), so this might not be too attractive to you.
A stable OC takes a ton of testing and patience. It's worth it, though, in my opinion. I'd rather have a fast rig that can run all day than a faster rig that'll crash at the worst possible time.

Hope this helps, and please update us.


----------



## Damage82

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


To answer your question:
CPU speed is king most of the time. I think the ONLY time it doesn't matter so much is SuperPi because you also have to have your RAM running nice and fast as well. My Opty rig used to run 3.0Ghz (333FSB) all day long with my Corsair Value RAM. However my RAM had to be ran at 166MHz (DDR333) because the next divider up made it unstable. That wasn't necessarily a bad thing though because I could run super tight timings. With 939's its USUALLY better to worry more about CPU speed than RAM speed. Then once you get that worked out....find the highest your RAM hits with your CPU at that speed....then tighten the timings as much as you can. A slightly lower clock on the RAM with tighter timings usually performs better than a higher clock with looser timings.


 I tightened my timings a little, will try a little more everyday. Any guides?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Damage82*


I tightened my timings a little, will try a little more everyday. Any guides?


This is possibly my favorite A64 RAM Settings guide.

My apologies, Damage82. Do you want to join our club? I may have neglected to add you before, but I wasn't sure if you wanted to join.


----------



## Damage82

Sure, sign me up.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Damage82*


Sure, sign me up.


Done.









"You are now part of the tribe."


----------



## Poser

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Two options.
First thing I would try is to increase your VCore, one step at a time, until you can run Small FFTs for a minimum of eight hours (given that you're running your Orthos at Priority 1). Personally, I would keep on going for as long as possible just to see how relatively stable the CPU settings are. Obviously, the longer it keeps going, the closer to stability you are.
Your other option would be to slow the CPU down and maintain your VCore where it is. I suspect, though, given the relative quickness of the Orthos failure, that you'll have to reduce CPU speed by maybe 50-100MHz just to get stable (a minimum estimate, in my opinion), so this might not be too attractive to you.
A stable OC takes a ton of testing and patience. *It's worth it, though, in my opinion. I'd rather have a fast rig that can run all day than a faster rig that'll crash at the worst possible time.*

Hope this helps, and please update us.










What's more, is that even the slightest instability, given time has an exponential effect. Though you have been operating for a year under these conditions, if you were to begin using applications that began to stress components under your current configuration in normal operating conditions...you may begin to experience file system corruptions, disk errors, BSODs and intermittent system failure.


----------



## thlnk3r

Woohoo a lot of members now


----------



## Oscuro

True....
Now if only my stuff would get here so I could pull this Opty out of this Abit board and get to playing with the DFI and the ridiculously complete set of options in the Bios...stuff I never knew existed...
And playing with a quartet of Noctua fans....
But christ.....I think I might hold off on benching when I get it up and running to play some TF2....for a few hours...My god I have been deprived of gaming.

And I'm thinking that this Abit board just isn't compatible with my Kingston value ram....because all three sticks are giving errors, when they ran rock solid in my old Gigabyte board.

Atleast that's what I am hoping.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Oscuro* 
True....
Now if only my stuff would get here so I could pull this Opty out of this Abit board and get to playing with the DFI and the ridiculously complete set of options in the Bios...stuff I never knew existed...
And playing with a quartet of Noctua fans....
But christ.....I think I might hold off on benching when I get it up and running to play some TF2....for a few hours...My god I have been deprived of gaming.

And I'm thinking that this Abit board just isn't compatible with my Kingston value ram....because all three sticks are giving errors, when they ran rock solid in my old Gigabyte board.

Atleast that's what I am hoping.


Oh my friend,DFI is in fact the dark magic


----------



## Death Dealer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Oscuro* 
I think I might hold off on benching when I get it up and running to play some TF2....

You and me are still going to have a MARKS WAR







LOL correct???????


----------



## Mr. Mojo

Sorry to jump in the middle here, but what's up with you guys running 3700's at stock? That would be like buying a Ferrari (well, maybe a Camaro) and driving it at 55 mph all the time.


----------



## Death Dealer

In a Galaxy, So Close, You have to squint...........


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mr. Mojo* 
Sorry to jump in the middle here, but what's up with you guys running 3700's at stock? That would be like buying a Ferrari (well, maybe a Camaro) and driving it at 55 mph all the time.

Now now, Mr. Mojo.

Stock, OC, it's all good!









By the way, guys, check my sig; see if you can spot this club's "secret handshake" in there?

What time is it..?


----------



## Oscuro

*laughs* Of course man....I just need some gaming in before hand.
Everything should be here this week; Probably near the same day. My stuff from NCIX should probably be here on tuesday, and my G.Skills Monday or Tues.
Course...if the DFI doesn't like G.Skills, I am going to cry. And resist breaking the board in half....Or taking it to work and throwing it into the slip rollers, taking a grinder to it....

Oh....crap....Forgot, my DFI is lacking it's onboard audio.....(well the connectors anyways).
I think I am going to be hoping this ancient Creative Live 5.1 card still works.....

Edit: Am or Pm?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Now now, Mr. Mojo.

Stock, OC, it's all good!









By the way, guys, check my sig; see if you can spot this club's "secret handshake" in there?

What time is it..?










what time is it? It's 9:39

I prefer PM


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
what time is it? It's 9:39

























Give the man a cigar!

I propose we incorporate that somewhere (in a post, or a sig) to promote this thread.









What do you think, S939ers?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
I prefer PM









Aha.

Did I ever tell you how I love the way you think?


----------



## Death Dealer

9:39 thats Like 4:20 Right LOL


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 























Give the man a cigar!

I propose we incorporate that somewhere (in a post, or a sig) to promote this thread.









What do you think, S939ers?

Aha.

Did I ever tell you how I love the way you think?









and done


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well, its ALMOST 9:39 PM here! Just 2 more minutes!

And final update on my fiance's rig. It's 100% stable at 2.60GHz. Will be posting screenshots in a few.

EDIT: Dangit, I misread the clock! It's almost 9:49. I MISSED IT!!!


----------



## Starholdest

Still on my old 939 rig







Just upgraded the mobo not a long time ago, too!

@ 2809Mhz @ 1.425V (9 hours Orthos blend test stable - 24/7 Usage) - http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=289741










Highest OC I've ever gotten! - 2945Mhz @ 1.45V - http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=276669


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Starholdest, which validation would you prefer? Peak or 24/7 stable?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Alright guys...finally got 100% proof of my fiance's rig's overclock! Here's the info (can be seen in Everest Sidebar as well in the SS):

260 FSB
10x multi
1.40v + 9.9% over volt = 1.50v idle, 1.488v load
166MHz divider
217MHz RAM @ 3,4,4,8,2T
2.75v on the RAM
4x512MB sticks (2 different 1GB kits)
Load temps of 64/82*C (I'm sure that the 84*C is a messed up sensor)

And I think that's pretty much all the info that should be needed! She passed over 25 HOURS Orthos blended priority 1 (she had to use her pogo while it was running). Anyways, here's the screenshot, hope you likey! I'm VERY proud of this board. My ASUS board has NEVER gotten this Manny stable this high.


----------



## thlnk3r

Anyone else think thats a faulty sensor in pioneers manny? That can't be right......


----------



## txtmstrjoe

pioneer, do you want/need me to update your data on the first page roster?

On the other hand, what you have on the first page is way higher than this.









Whichever you want, I can do.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Anyone else think thats a faulty sensor in pioneers manny? That can't be right......


Golly gee, that's hot!

On the other hand, it does have 1.5V ripping through it, so...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Yes Joe, go ahead and update the Manny. The 2.94GHz was a suicide run...this is stable.

Now here's my question for you sensor guys:
That Manny loaded at 95*C on the hotter core in my sig rig (finally changed it back). That was running STOCK VOLTS with my Zalman. It is now fully lapped with a lapped Big Typhoon....and LOOK AT THE DELTA??? I'm pretty sure its a faulty sensor....and it was loading at over 80*C for over 24 hours. I'm sure that chip would've died by now, right?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Yes Joe, go ahead and update the Manny. The 2.94GHz was a suicide run...this is stable.


Done (in 9:39, no less)!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Now here's my question for you sensor guys:
That Manny loaded at 95*C on the hotter core in my sig rig (finally changed it back). That was running STOCK VOLTS with my Zalman. It is now fully lapped with a lapped Big Typhoon....and LOOK AT THE DELTA??? I'm pretty sure its a faulty sensor....and it was loading at over 80*C for over 24 hours. I'm sure that chip would've died by now, right?


Given what you've told us, it does appear that the thermal sensors are wacky on that Manchester. To be honest, I'm not familiar with Manchester having goofy temp sensors, as the case seemed to be with certain Denmark/Toledos and many of the Brisbanes. It doesn't mean that it's not possible, though.

Question: You couldn't get that Manchester to run stably with less VCore?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Done (in 9:39, no less)!









Given what you've told us, it does appear that the thermal sensors are wacky on that Manchester. To be honest, I'm not familiar with Manchester having goofy temp sensors, as the case seemed to be with certain Denmark/Toledos and many of the Brisbanes. It doesn't mean that it's not possible, though.

*Question: You couldn't get that Manchester to run stably with less VCore?*


Oh no....in my board to hit 2.55 I had to push 1.60v through it. At 2.50Ghz I had to run 1.475v through it, etc, etc.... It takes massive volts to get it up that high unfortunately. I've got quite a bad stepping on that Manny. I have no clue what it is though since I lapped it before I knew what steppings were, lol. But yeah I've got the voltage maxed out that the MSI board can give it. If I go to 2.61Ghz (261FSB)...it fails Orthos within 5 minutes. I am at this processor's maximum possible speed to be stable I'm sure. And unfortuantely to get it there...it needs massive volts.


----------



## thlnk3r

Well this definitely sounds normal voltage wise for a Manny but those temps are insane.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I often forget how hungry for voltage Manchesters are. I only have two in my collection.

Come to think of it, that's about par for the course. My office machine has a Manchester (X2 3800+), and it's at 2.5GHz. It needs about 1.45V VCore, but it's stable like a mountain. Runs hotter than most any Denmark chip I've ever had, too.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Well this definitely sounds normal voltage wise for a Manny but those temps are insane.










Like I said, its lapped mirror smooth (both CPU and the Big Tyhoon). Its using Shin Etsu TIM. And what did the CPU temp say, 52*C? I very highly doubt that one core is 30*C hotter than what the CPU temp is (not core, CPU).

Yes, it may be crazy hot...but I like to live dangerously














. Heck, my Opty loads at 67*C...just over thermal spec. Do I care? No. If it knocks 1 year off the processor's life.....am I really going to have this processor THAT long? Probably not. So why worry about it?

And I'm quite convinced that the Manny just has a screwy sensor. Like I said, it's had super high delta's since I got it. I always thought that the higher temp was something completely different till I started using Everest and CoreTemp. Like I said, 95*C under load in my sig rig...running 100% stock speeds and volts with my Zalman. There's no possible way...not even with a bad mounting job could it possibly be that high. And with that Big Typhoon...man I've got that thing bolted down as tightly as I possibly could....and evenly. Again...I like to live dangerously














.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Like I said, its lapped mirror smooth (both CPU and the Big Tyhoon). Its using Shin Etsu TIM. And what did the CPU temp say, 52*C? I very highly doubt that one core is 30*C hotter than what the CPU temp is (not core, CPU).

Yes, it may be crazy hot...but I like to live dangerously














. Heck, my Opty loads at 67*C...just over thermal spec. Do I care? No. If it knocks 1 year off the processor's life.....am I really going to have this processor THAT long? Probably not. So why worry about it?

And I'm quite convinced that the Manny just has a screwy sensor. Like I said, it's had super high delta's since I got it. I always thought that the higher temp was something completely different till I started using Everest and CoreTemp. Like I said, 95*C under load in my sig rig...running 100% stock speeds and volts with my Zalman. There's no possible way...not even with a bad mounting job could it possibly be that high. And with that Big Typhoon...man I've got that thing bolted down as tightly as I possibly could....and evenly. Again...I like to live dangerously














.


pioneerisloud = Daredevil!









Either that, or a (uh-oh) flamer...

Just kidding! I swear!

Seriously, though, I'm inclined to agree with you, pioneer. It must be a screwy sensor. It's not monitoring software (two different systems with two different motherboards), it's likely not a bad HSF mount, the surfaces are lapped...


----------



## pioneerisloud

I'm not all that worried about the Manny. I've taken GREAT care of it for its entire lifetime. That sensor's kinda iffy...but I wouldn't think it'd hurt anything. Oh...and I PM'd you 939 king!


----------



## thlnk3r

I just went for 3300mhz at 1.55volts and no luck. Even relaxed my timings







. I got a nasty pci.sys error though hahaha


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
I just went for 3300mhz at 1.55volts and no luck. Even relaxed my timings







. I got a nasty pci.sys error though hahaha









Holy boot failure, Batman!









Good thing for you that I know you clone your system regularly!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Good thing for you that I know you clone your system regularly!









LOL actually I was desperate and went straight for the gold. I guess I should clone my drive before I mess something up


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
LOL actually I was desperate and went straight for the gold. I guess I should clone my drive before I mess something up










YIKES!

And I thought pioneer liked to live dangerously...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
YIKES!

And I thought pioneer liked to live dangerously...









I do! Making clones of your disk drives....jeez. So high tech! Wish I even knew what that meant...is it like cloning sheep? I've always wanted to clone a sheep. BTW...I do know what cloning is, lol.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I do! Making clones of your disk drives....jeez. So high tech! Wish I even knew what that meant...is it like cloning sheep? I've always wanted to clone a sheep. BTW...I do know what cloning is, lol.











I'll let thlnk3r take this one...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I do! Making clones of your disk drives....jeez. So high tech! Wish I even knew what that meant...is it like cloning sheep? I've always wanted to clone a sheep. BTW...I do know what cloning is, lol.

Pioneer, actually it's simple man. I use Western Digitals Lifeguard tools to just image my drive to another. Very very simple. The tools only work on a WD drive though.


----------



## BeOtCh

3700 @ stock is becuz my mobo is worthless


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BeOtCh* 
3700 @ stock is becuz my mobo is worthless









Beotch, you won't even go up 100mhz?


----------



## BeOtCh

it will OC but prime fails all the time







no memory options beside cas lat and cmd rate


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BeOtCh*


it will OC but prime fails all the time







no memory options beside cas lat and cmd rate


BeOtCh, have you tried CTRL+F1 in the bios? That should reveal the hidden Advanced Options. This shortcut key is common in GA boards.

Good luck


----------



## BeOtCh

yes i have .... just a basic cheap board .... ive booted to 2.6ghz area ..but like i said fails prime ....ive tinkered with it so many times i gave up


----------



## Starholdest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Starholdest, which validation would you prefer? Peak or 24/7 stable?


Well I'm sure it would run 24/7...Since I haven't had any problems with it so far...but I can never be sure.

What's Peak mean? :s


----------



## BeOtCh

with prime ....which 1 should i start with small ...in place or blend ....rite now im @ 2.55 ghz mem 166 @ 182 htt [email protected] 928 cpu +.5 and runnin small on prime no errors yet UPDATE prime failed after 16 mins


----------



## vuxdu

Well here is mine..

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=316358


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BeOtCh*


yes i have .... just a basic cheap board .... ive booted to 2.6ghz area ..but like i said fails prime ....ive tinkered with it so many times i gave up


Beotch, what you need to find is the GA-K8NSC-939 board. I had that 939 board and it was great....all though it's only AGP. One of my irl buddies has the last GA 939 board with PCI-E(GA-K8NF-9). The OC options in the BIOS were very nice


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Starholdest*


Well I'm sure it would run 24/7...Since I haven't had any problems with it so far...but I can never be sure.

What's Peak mean? :s


Peak = maximum

I added you to our roster using your higher CPU-Z validation. Welcome!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JTD92*


Socket 939!?











Quote:



Originally Posted by *Oscuro*


...And the point of this was?


Just another Intel convert being a jerk-troll, nothing more.

Isn't it funny how some of the Intel bois somehow feel threatened, enough to be a donkey, whenever there's some action going on in the AMD section?

We keep our peace here; we mind our own business. We respectfully ask that you do the same. Provoke us, rock our boat, we've got lots of hands to show you off into the cold blue ocean...

And welcome to you, vuxdu!


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Peak = maximum

I added you to our roster using your higher CPU-Z validation. Welcome!

Just another Intel convert being a jerk-troll, nothing more.

Isn't it funny how some of the Intel bois somehow feel threatened, enough to be a donkey, whenever there's some action going on in the AMD section?

We keep our peace here; we mind our own business. We respectfully ask that you do the same. Provoke us, rock our boat, we've got lots of hands to show you off into the cold blue ocean...

And welcome to you, vuxdu!


and unfortunately we'll have to forget the lifejacket


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


and unfortunately we'll have to forget the lifejacket


----------



## Iconoclast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Beotch, what you need to find is the GA-K8NSC-939 board. I had that 939 board and it was great....all though it's only AGP. One of my irl buddies has the last GA 939 board with PCI-E(GA-K8NF-9). The OC options in the BIOS were very nice










Yes, a great board. Ran it for about 5 years. Until I got this one. Have it running in my server now. Great bios.


----------



## Oscuro

Lifejackets? We have people running 939's at over 1.5v here, and you think we even HAVE lifejackets?!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Oscuro*


Lifejackets? We have people running 939's at over 1.5v here, and you think we even HAVE lifejackets?!


Here's someone who's run an Opteron 170 @ 1.7V sustained, on load.

On air cooling...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JTD92* 
Socket 939!?









JTD, why are you laughing? Your running a 939 3200+ venice in your "2nd rig": http://www.overclock.net/system.php?i=11001


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
JTD, why are you laughing? Your running a 939 3200+ venice in your "2nd rig": http://www.overclock.net/system.php?i=11001
































CAUGHT


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
JTD, why are you laughing? Your running a 939 3200+ venice in your "2nd rig": http://www.overclock.net/system.php?i=11001











Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 





















CAUGHT























Man overboard!

Check mate.

That's what I call pwnage...


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Man overboard!

Check mate.

That's what I call pwnage...









GAME OVER














TILT














ANOTHER ONE BITES THE DUST


----------



## pioneerisloud

ROFL at the most recent troll interuption here at the 939 club! You know what I find is kind of funny? 939>775...think about it. 939 is a bigger number than 775. Its just a plain fact.....so with an educated guess, one can only ASSUME that 939 is in fact better because its a higher number. Ok, so I'm a little tired after 3, 9 hour days at work.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Ok, so I'm a little tired after 3, 9 hour days at work.

Pioneer, down a Monster and you'll wake up. Hmmm I wonder if you'll get insane OC's from pioneer after he consumes an energy drink


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Pioneer, down a Monster and you'll wake up. Hmmm I wonder if you'll get insane OC's from pioneer after he consumes an energy drink









You mean to say that my OC's aren't insane enough...you know with 82*C load temps??? Lol. BTW...anybody that has a CHEAP spare 939 board, I'm interesting in trading if you are (lol, nothing in my sig though, lol). Just figured I'd throw that out there. I'm looking to get a THIRD 939 rig up and going as my HTPC...the AthlonXP is kind of stuttering a little in Vista. Go figure!


----------



## lenzo

My 3700 Sandy has served me well, and still does.
Yes even plays Crysis fine. I'll be sad to let it go.
Ex-wife wants it, prefers it over her new laptop.


----------



## lenzo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
You mean to say that my OC's aren't insane enough...you know with 82*C load temps??? Lol. BTW...anybody that has a CHEAP spare 939 board, I'm interesting in trading if you are (lol, nothing in my sig though, lol). Just figured I'd throw that out there. I'm looking to get a THIRD 939 rig up and going as my HTPC...the AthlonXP is kind of stuttering a little in Vista. Go figure!

I've got an old Abit NF7-S v2 with a XPM 2600 that still flies at 2.61g 24/7 if your interested (to keep the old Athlon thing going). PM me


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
You mean to say that my OC's aren't insane enough...you know with 82*C load temps???

Oh sorry forgot about the 82C LOL


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Oh sorry forgot about the 82C LOL

ROFL...dude how could you possibly forget about that insane temp? I should slap that sucker back in my board, overvolt it to 1.65v then post the temps







! Then you'll call me a dare devil







.


----------



## Poser

Paging OB 939 kinobi....Paging OB 939 Kinobi.... you have a call on the courtesy phone

(uuuuhhhh thats you Joe Vader....)

I wish to submit my media rig for consideration in our merry band as well... my 939's have good chi and the women dig it


----------



## cooljamesbeans

ooo! sick club, count me in


----------



## Gothic Case

I hope I'm still on time....

here's some work with my 165 opty....


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Welcome to our newest additions to the roster, cooljamesbeans and Gothic Case. Good to see even more OCNers still rocking S939-style.

And Poser, I've added your second rig to the roster as well.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gothic Case*


I hope I'm still on time....

here's some work with my 165 opty....


Gothic, very nice OC!


----------



## Iconoclast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Gothic, very nice OC!










No ****. And your cpu is only running at 18 degrees??? Is that reading correct? With 1.65v I find it hard to believe.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gothic Case*


I hope I'm still on time....

here's some work with my 165 opty....


If you don't mind, could you provide proof of stabilty? I find it quite hard to believe that you're stable at that speed. That's an amazing overclock nontheless (see my sig for almost an identical clock speed







), however I was unable to get stable at that speed.....so I was just wondering if yours was. And 18*C??? Are you on phase or something, lol?


----------



## Poser

@gothic... most impressive OC sir.









But, I like the rest of the gang would like to know....is that 24/7 and stable. If so... you are a god amongst men.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Stable or not, that's one heck of an OC!

He's on water, but the way his temperatures are, he did a *SUPER* job putting it together and making it work.

Normally, I sing the "Stability is King" song the loudest, but I just want to say that's a truly amazing OC. Great job, Gothic Case!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well hey now! I never got that much praise when I got my Opty 165 @ 3.27GHz (cough, see my sig, cough)....this just is NOT fair!


----------



## Poser

@ploud...

*YOU ARE A PIMP!

nice OC
*


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Well hey now! I never got that much praise when I got my Opty 165 @ 3.27GHz (cough, see my sig, cough)....this just is NOT fair!
















Yay you!
















Happy?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Yes, you guys made my day! Thank you!
















Now I feel quite







, but kinda







! Go figure.

My 3.27GHz was about as stable as Britney Spears though. If this guy's overclock is stable....man he's got me beat with an overclock stick!


----------



## Poser

gentlemen... I require assistance:

I am trying to upgrade to 4 *1gb sticks in my expert but I am hitting a wall, here's my checklist so far:

A. Matching pairs of Gskill pc4000 HZs
B. Enable MMO PCI memory hole
C. Set CPC to 2T
D. BIOS reads all 4 gigs just fine

Now here is the problem... I go through POST, BIOS checks RAID status.... makes IRQ assignments...

then instead of verifying checksum, backing up CMOS and going through Boot cycle... it just hard re-boots...

suggestions... cause I am at a loss


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Poser*


gentlemen... I require assistance:

I am trying to upgrade to 4 *1gb sticks in my expert but I am hitting a wall, here's my checklist so far:

A. Matching pairs of Gskill pc4000 HZs
B. Enable MMO PCI memory hole
C. Set CPC to 2T
D. BIOS reads all 4 gigs just fine

Now here is the problem... I go through POST, BIOS checks RAID status.... makes IRQ assignments...

then instead of verifying checksum, backing up CMOS and going through Boot cycle... it just hard re-boots...

suggestions... cause I am at a loss










Need clarification: I'm guessing that the system is still overclocked, yes? You've added a second pair of 1GB DIMMs and made the changes you noted above, correct?

If so, it sounds to me that the additional RAM is too much for the IMC.

Two completely different approaches are possible, in my opinion.

One is to find a way to force your current configuration to "accept" the added strain of the two extra GBs of RAM. You can try VCore increases, chipset voltage increases, and/or LDT voltage increases and see if that might work.

The second, more arduous, approach is to reset everything to default and restart your OC with all four GBs.

I'd be willing to wager, though, that because of the additional RAM, the OC potential ceiling is going to be lower than with just two GBs. Hope I'm wrong, though.

Hope this helps.


----------



## Gothic Case

Thx m8s!

That unfo isn't stable yet, but as I got 3.29GHz last night, i'm pretty sure that I can throw a SPI 1M 3.2GHz... as soon as my RAM arrive from RMA...

For cooling, I managed to get the ugliest solution possible... a plastic vase as reservoir (I needed an open one) and ice cubes! lol! Normal frozen water, so I got it at that temp... but it wasn't that easy, as @ 16C it would coldbug @ anything > 360MHz.. now I'm aiming for 20ÂºC, as I think that should be ideal for 370MHz... at least it did the job for 367MHz...

My 24/7 config is 2.9GHz... (9.0x323MHz), with stock volts.

I don't know what am I doing wrong here, as I can play oblivion for hours and hours (12h+ if I'm not mistaken) @ 3GHz 1.475v, but can't prime it for 10mins @ 3GHz, even with 1.55v.....

SuperPI 1M goes well... up to 3.160MHz... I've done it before....

Any ideas?

Thx!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gothic Case*


Thx m8s!

That unfo isn't stable yet, but as I got 3.29GHz last night, i'm pretty sure that I can throw a SPI 1M 3.2GHz... as soon as my RAM arrive from RMA...

For cooling, I managed to get the ugliest solution possible... a plastic vase as reservoir (I needed an open one) and ice cubes! lol! Normal frozen water, so I got it at that temp... but it wasn't that easy, as @ 16C it would coldbug @ anything > 360MHz.. now I'm aiming for 20ÂºC, as I think that should be ideal for 370MHz... at least it did the job for 367MHz...

My 24/7 config is 2.9GHz... (9.0x323MHz), with stock volts.

I don't know what am I doing wrong here, as I can play oblivion for hours and hours (12h+ if I'm not mistaken) @ 3GHz 1.475v, but can't prime it for 10mins @ 3GHz, even with 1.55v.....

SuperPI 1M goes well... up to 3.160MHz... I've done it before....

Any ideas?

Thx!


Well, games are stressful on the system, but a program like Prime95 or Orthos (or any other stress tester) put a much larger burden on the CPU (+ RAM, "Blend" tests) than even games do. Consider, as well, that games utilize the graphics subsystem too, which means there's one more part of the entire system that's sharing the load with the CPU and memory.

I'm not aware of any games that are entirely CPU-dependent; in other words, I don't know if there are any games which use all of a CPU's cycles the way a dedicated stress test program does.


----------



## Gothic Case

I see, joe...

Need some time with it until I can figure out where's the instability.. MHz by MHz...

BTW, here's my second rig!

As the hardware is almost the same, I just swapped the CPUs... didn't want to go too hgih, only pushed it to 1.52v! lol....










Hope you like it!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gothic Case*


I see, joe...

Need some time with it until I can figure out where's the instability.. MHz by MHz...

BTW, here's my second rig!

As the hardware is almost the same, I just swapped the CPUs... didn't want to go too hgih, only pushed it to 1.52v! lol....

Hope you like it!


Most impressive, good sir! You clearly have a knack for this.









I've added your second machine.









On the issue of stability, in truth I don't think there is such a thing as "absolute" stability, or a perfectly stable system. There are just so many different factors that influence an overclocked system's stability; you have myriad possible hardware combinations, random quality of components, and issues with the software side of things that can all cause an apparently stable system to just exhibit some kind of instability. We can get close to a perfectly stable state, but I don't think it's possible to be "absolutely" stable.

Unless, of course, you turn the machine off... It won't ever crash then, would it?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well you most certainly have a knack for some of the best suicide runs I've seen. I wish you luck wrestling that sucker stable @ 3.2GHz though. If you do....well you've got my respect.


----------



## nategr8ns

dang, why do people ruin their 939 processors when theres so many of us in need of a working one!
lol...

hey pioneer, I didn't realize you lived in yakima, cool!


----------



## kEsemper

Stable as can be -- 24/7


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


dang, why do people ruin their 939 processors when theres so many of us in need of a working one!
lol...

hey pioneer, I didn't realize you lived in yakima, cool!


agreed.. like me! im lookin for one!!







XD stupid paypal not verifying my bank acc >=[


----------



## Damage82

Here is where I am at right now. I have my ram volt @ 2.75.... Is that too high? Any suggestions would be more than welcomed.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Looking nice Gothic Case!

Update for yous guys, I have added a vent from my window to my Case making the ambient temp 15c-19c =) This may help with 3.1Ghz goal


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


dang, why do people ruin their 939 processors when theres so many of us in need of a working one!
lol...

hey pioneer, I didn't realize you lived in yakima, cool!


It takes a heck of a lot more than what most people believe to even hurt these chips, actually. They're far more susceptible to damage like bent/severed pins compared to, say, sustained operation at a high voltage and/or high temperature.

Case in point: Look at pioneer's examples. I know he's been running his Opteron in those conditions for a good while now.

To reinforce the point: I've got an Opteron 170 at home that has run 1.7V through it, with nothing but air cooling used on it; moreover, through a battery of stress tests, it worked at a peak temperature (sustained over several unsupervised hours) of around 75 degrees C on its hotter core.







I was trying to see if it could work @ 3.0GHz with any real stability. (It couldn't, sadly.)

The amazing thing is, this chip still works perfectly well today...









My point: Don't underestimate what these CPUs can absorb in terms of voltage and temperature. They are tough little things.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


It takes a heck of a lot more than what most people believe to even hurt these chips, actually. They're far more susceptible to damage like bent/severed pins compared to, say, sustained operation at a high voltage and/or high temperature.

Case in point: Look at pioneer's examples. I know he's been running his Opteron in those conditions for a good while now.

To reinforce the point: I've got an Opteron 170 at home that has run 1.7V through it, with nothing but air cooling used on it; moreover, through a battery of stress tests, it worked at a peak temperature (sustained over several unsupervised hours) of around 75 degrees C on its hotter core.







I was trying to see if it could work @ 3.0GHz with any real stability. (It couldn't, sadly.)

The amazing thing is, this chip still works perfectly well today...









My point: Don't underestimate what these CPUs can absorb in terms of voltage and temperature. They are tough little things.











also one thing to remember with the Opterons is they are server chips and meant to last much longer than the cheaper desktops chips. I can almost guarantee they normally run under harsher conditions than we do. Dust/closed poorly ventilated rooms....etc.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I'd have to agree. These Opteron chips can really take a beating. The X2 that I've got, while yes it supposedly loads at over 80*C....does not mean that's the real temperature since I'm 99% sure its got a faulty sensor.

Basically all I'm trying to get to is:
When you're working with a server chip such as the Opteron....I personally take the "thermal spec" with a grain of salt. Just like Guardian said...I'm sure business put these little guys through a LOT more abuse than even I have done to my chips.

And yes, I do live in Crackima....so what? Lol, just wondering cuz you're profile says Maine....that's about as far away from me as you can get (within the CONUS).


----------



## GuardianOdin

just to be clear and not to offend our desktop CPU brothers.=P When I say "cheaper" I mean they are made with a lower quality silicon. Where as the Opterons are a high quality for businesses that need them much longer than we would normally.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


just to be clear and not to offend our desktop CPU brothers.=P When I say "cheaper" I mean they are made with a lower quality silicon. Where as the Opterons are a high quality for businesses that need them much longer than we would normally.


Oh I understand totally! I've got one of these "cheaper" desktop CPU's as well. IMO its just as freakin durable if not more based off its heat output, lol. However I do have a feeling that the X2 that I've got is going to die LOOONGG before my Opty chip dies. I believe that my entire rig is going to be replaced before this Opty dies. However that X2....I might just end up seeing that die before that rig's life is over.


----------



## GuardianOdin

lol maybe man,that was a fairly high temp to be running.

Just the other day I cleaned the computers here at work "I was bored" and I must have brushed and blown out a solid handful of dust and such. A solid HANDFUL


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


also one thing to remember with the Opterons is they are server chips and meant to last much longer than the cheaper desktops chips. I can almost guarantee they normally run under harsher conditions than we do. Dust/closed poorly ventilated rooms....etc.


Actually, it's interesting you've brought this up.

This has been the subject of a long "debate" as to whether S939 are "true" server-class CPUs, or if they are just "higher-binned" chips made from the same wafers as X2 dual-cores (or San Diego single-cores, as far as the Venus single-core Opterons are concerned) and FX-series chips.

Though AMD has never issued any official communique addressing the subject, my personal opinion is that, as far as the DDR single-socket era (i.e., S939 and S940) is concerned, only the S940 Opterons qualified as server-class CPUs. The S940 chips were really server-class chips, and were the basis for the first FX-series chips.

AMD realized, though, that they would be alienating the mainstream market sector (the target for S939) by only releasing the flagship FX-series CPUs if it was a S940, so they introduced fully-unlocked S939 chips and dubbed these Athlon64 FX, and phased out the original FXs. They took the very best chips from the San Diego (and later, with the FX-60, the Toledo dual-core) line, unlocked the multiplier, and made very wealthy OCers very happy.

They did the same with the Opteron line. Realizing that they could capitalize on the superb reputation of S940 Opterons as stable chips, AMD introduced the S939 Opteron in both single-core (Venus) and dual-core (Denmark) flavors. The Venus core is identical to the San Diego, while the Denmark is the same as the Toledo; this is why, until very recently, programs like CPU-Z identified S939 Opterons by the Athlon core name.

You could see that Athlons and Opterons with identical features (# of cores; transistor count; cache sizes) and instruction sets are, indeed, equivalents, identical in all but name. The chips' stepping codes also make this obvious. I have Athlon X2s and dual-core Opterons with the same basic stepping batch (CCBWE). This is one big reason why I'm convinced the S939 Opteron is not like the original S940 Opteron, which was designed, from the ground-up, as a true server-class product.

Anyway, enough blathering on from me.


----------



## iandroo888

ew. nasty. i remember cleaning the clinic i used to work at.. the computers.. oh man.. i had to take it outside to blow the dust out (wouldnt want to make the entire office dusty...) that would defeat the purpose of "cleaning"


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Actually, it's interesting you've brought this up.

This has been the subject of a long "debate" as to whether S939 are "true" server-class CPUs, or if they are just "higher-binned" chips made from the same wafers as X2 dual-cores (or San Diego single-cores, as far as the Venus single-core Opterons are concerned) and FX-series chips.

Though AMD has never issued any official communique addressing the subject, my personal opinion is that, as far as the DDR single-socket era (i.e., S939 and S940) is concerned, only the S940 Opterons qualified as server-class CPUs. The S940 chips were really server-class chips, and were the basis for the first FX-series chips.

AMD realized, though, that they would be alienating the mainstream market sector (the target for S939) by only releasing the flagship FX-series CPUs if it was a S940, so they introduced fully-unlocked S939 chips and dubbed these Athlon64 FX, and phased out the original FXs. They took the very best chips from the San Diego (and later, with the FX-60, the Toledo dual-core) line, unlocked the multiplier, and made very wealthy OCers very happy.

They did the same with the Opteron line. Realizing that they could capitalize on the superb reputation of S940 Opterons as stable chips, AMD introduced the S939 Opteron in both single-core (Venus) and dual-core (Denmark) flavors. The Venus core is identical to the San Diego, while the Denmark is the same as the Toledo; this is why, until very recently, programs like CPU-Z identified S939 Opterons by the Athlon core name.

You could see that Athlons and Opterons with identical features (# of cores; transistor count; cache sizes) and instruction sets are, indeed, equivalents, identical in all but name. The chips' stepping codes also make this obvious. I have Athlon X2s and dual-core Opterons with the same basic stepping batch (CCBWE). This is one big reason why I'm convinced the S939 Opteron is not like the original S940 Opteron, which was designed, from the ground-up, as a true server-class product.

Anyway, enough blathering on from me.










Very interesting read. However I would like to address one issue here. You stated that the x2 and Opteron dual core chips have the same L2 cache...whereas that information is false. The x2 3800 has 2x512kB cache whereas the Opteron dual cores have 2x1MB cache. MOST of the X2 series only have 2x512kb. If I remember correctly, the only X2 chip that had 2x1MB cache was the X2 4800 which wasn't available for very long compared to others. Just my $0.02.


----------



## Damage82

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Damage82*











Here is where I am at right now. I have my ram volt @ 2.75.... Is that too high? Any suggestions would be more than welcomed.


 Any help? Just want to make sure I'm not gonna fry my ram? Also what is a good limit for the CPU?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well bud the limits are all up to your individual hardware. The only thing I can say is test it out and see. The CCBBE's if I remember correctly have the tendancy to clock fairly high but with some decent voltage. Your RAM looks safe...I'm sure it could go higher or tighter...but just make sure its stable by using Orthos blended or Memtest (just for RAM). I usually keep my RAM under 2.75v without spreaders, or 2.90v with.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Very interesting read. However I would like to address one issue here. You stated that the x2 and Opteron dual core chips have the same L2 cache...whereas that information is false. The x2 3800 has 2x512kB cache whereas the Opteron dual cores have 2x1MB cache. MOST of the X2 series only have 2x512kb. If I remember correctly, the only X2 chip that had 2x1MB cache was the X2 4800 which wasn't available for very long compared to others. Just my $0.02.


Well...

I didn't address the Manchesters, which DO have the 2x512KB L2 cache.







I was speaking purely about the Toledos, which, like the Denmarks, have 2x1MB L2 cache.

Speaking of Toledos, originally there were two X2 models based on the Toledo: The X2 4400+, and the X2 4800+ (2.2GHz & 2.4GHz stock speeds, respectively). By the end of the S939 era, we started seeing X2s with half their L2 cache disabled (X2 3800+s, X2 4200+s, and sometimes the rare X2 4600+s), and even *single-core* Toledos (Athlon64 3700+s and 4000+s) with one entire core disabled. Obviously, when AMD started ramping up production of AM2 chips, they scaled back S939 parts production massively and only made Toledo/Denmark chips, and then started binning them according to how healthy they proved during pre-sale testing.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Damage82*


Any help? Just want to make sure I'm not gonna fry my ram? Also what is a good limit for the CPU?


2.75V is not that high for most DDR ICs. Run MemTest86+ before booting into the OS; if the voltage is too high for the RAM, you frequently get errors in MemTest86+.

As far as what a good limit for your CPU is, who knows? Only testing various levels of temperature, VCore, and CPU Max Frequency can tell you that.









Don't be too scared to push your CPU! Just don't get reckless.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Well...

Don't be too scared to push your CPU! * Just don't get reckless.*










Me thinks he's talking about me here? Anybody else get that impression?


----------



## Poser

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Need clarification: I'm guessing that the system is still overclocked, yes? You've added a second pair of 1GB DIMMs and made the changes you noted above, correct?

If so, it sounds to me that the additional RAM is too much for the IMC.

Two completely different approaches are possible, in my opinion.

One is to find a way to force your current configuration to "accept" the added strain of the two extra GBs of RAM. You can try VCore increases, chipset voltage increases, and/or LDT voltage increases and see if that might work.

The second, more arduous, approach is to reset everything to default and restart your OC with all four GBs.

I'd be willing to wager, though, that because of the additional RAM, the OC potential ceiling is going to be lower than with just two GBs. Hope I'm wrong, though.

Hope this helps.










Ohhh hell no... I don't have pioneer sized cajones







. I returned the board to factory default... because I know that the on die mem-con, though a great innovation, can become saturated way to easily when called upon to run 4 stix. I am hoping to just boot into the OS at the moment, then use a couple of different CMOS reloaded checkpoints I created to take some of the labor out of finding a sweet spot (I definitely think CMOS reloaded is one of DFIs best features...).

I just want this b!tch to POST.... for now


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Poser* 
Ohhh hell no... I don't have pioneer sized cajones







. I returned the board to factory default... *because I know that the on die mem-con, though a great innovation, can become saturated way to easily when called upon to run 4 stix.* I am hoping to just boot into the OS at the moment, then use a couple of different CMOS reloaded checkpoints I created to take some of the labor out of finding a sweet spot (I definitely think CMOS reloaded is one of DFIs best features...).

I just want this b!tch to POST.... for now









The stuff in bold I'd personally like to address.

It has come to my attention that the myth of 4 sticks is actually false (in my experience). Yes, running 4 sticks of RAM will most likely force you into 2T instead of 1T. However on my fiance's rig...I was able to become stable with 217MHz DDR speed with 4 value sticks. My sig rig wasn't even capable of running 2 past 212.5MHz...no matter what timings. I have a general feeling that its not the amount of sticks...its the amount of memory on the sticks that's adding so much extra stress to the memory controller. When I went from 2x512 value RAM to 2x1GB DDR500 on my sig rig....I was forced to run 2T @ 214MHz on RAM that I know dang good and well should handle better than that. Again...I believe its because of the extra memory...not the extra sticks.

Just my views on this myth. I could be wrong....but I could be right too?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Me thinks he's talking about me here? Anybody else get that impression?









Was I..?

Wait. Didn't you Kentucky-fry a HDD engaging someone in an OCing shootout..?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Was I..?

Wait. Didn't you Kentucky-fry a HDD engaging someone in an OCing shootout..?










Fry a HDD? I don't remember this...lol, but I might have?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Poser* 
Ohhh hell no... I don't have pioneer sized cajones







. I returned the board to factory default... because I know that the on die mem-con, though a great innovation, can become saturated way to easily when called upon to run 4 stix. I am hoping to just boot into the OS at the moment, then use a couple of different CMOS reloaded checkpoints I created to take some of the labor out of finding a sweet spot (I definitely think CMOS reloaded is one of DFIs best features...).

I just want this b!tch to POST.... for now









Hmm... odd that it didn't POST with four DIMMs.

Could one of the DIMM slots be dead? Have you reseated the DIMMs, just to be sure they're all seated properly?


----------



## natev

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=317083









I have had this system for almost 3 years now.

Upgraded my CPU once ie. 3000+ --> 4000+

Upgraded GFX card once 6600gt ---> 8800gts

I just won an aution for a athlon fx-60 on ebay, so ill be puttin that in a few days.

I have stock cooling, so I need to upgrade that too if I really want to OC my fx-60 thats on the way.

my current OC @ 2.875 Ghz room temp 22C. it idles at 30C. full load at 50C

I plan on keepin this 939 setup for at least another year.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Looking forward to your success with the great ol 939! BTW, if you click on User CP at the top of the page...you can insert your computer's specs by clicking "Add a System". That way we can see what you're working with (see our signatures?). It helps us to help you a lot easier.

I'd also like to ask...why the FX series? Don't get me wrong...its a 939 chip, so you know it ought to be good, lol....but why didn't you go for the Opteron 165 or 170?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *natev*


http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=317083









I have had this system for almost 3 years now.

Upgraded my CPU once ie. 3000+ --> 4000+

Upgraded GFX card once 6600gt ---> 8800gts

I just won an aution for a athlon fx-60 on ebay, so ill be puttin that in a few days.

I have stock cooling, so I need to upgrade that too if I really want to OC my fx-60 thats on the way.

my current OC @ 2.875 Ghz room temp 22C. it idles at 30C. full load at 50C

I plan on keepin this 939 setup for at least another year.










welcome to the club


----------



## Poser

Whats better than POOR PIGS....

How bout FOUR GIGS....


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Welcome, natev!

And good job, Poser! Tell me: What did the trick? How did you get that to POST?


----------



## natev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Looking forward to your success with the great ol 939! BTW, if you click on User CP at the top of the page...you can insert your computer's specs by clicking "Add a System". That way we can see what you're working with (see our signatures?). It helps us to help you a lot easier.

I'd also like to ask...why the FX series? Don't get me wrong...its a 939 chip, so you know it ought to be good, lol....but why didn't you go for the Opteron 165 or 170?


found a decently priced one on ebay.

It has the unlocked multiplier ill get to toy with









Also I heard/read that opterons arent so great for overclocking, so I was hesistant to get one.

Also the old nostalgia of the fx series. I remember when I first build my rig, I was drooling over the fx series but they cost like $1000+. I just decided hey I always wanted the chip and now I get it for a quarter that price.


----------



## Poser

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Welcome, natev!

And good job, Poser! Tell me: What did the trick? How did you get that to POST?


















...uhhhhhh

good ole fashioned hard CMOS reset (power down, discharge caps, unplug, move jumper, wait an hour, move jumper back, plug-in, and power on)

but now we got a whole new batch of problems... do to address mapping, something has gotten screwy with my network connections. I will keep at it though


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *natev*


found a decently priced one on ebay.

It has the unlocked multiplier ill get to toy with









Also I heard/read that opterons arent so great for overclocking, so I was hesistant to get one.

Also the old nostalgia of the fx series. I remember when I first build my rig, I was drooling over the fx series but they cost like $1000+. I just decided hey I always wanted the chip and now I get it for a quarter that price.


Ya heard wrong about the Opterons,they are some of the best OC'ers


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *natev*


found a decently priced one on ebay.

It has the unlocked multiplier ill get to toy with









*Also I heard/read that opterons arent so great for overclocking*, so I was hesistant to get one.

Also the old nostalgia of the fx series. I remember when I first build my rig, I was drooling over the fx series but they cost like $1000+. I just decided hey I always wanted the chip and now I get it for a quarter that price.


Hope you got a good OCing FX-60!







And please do tell us about your OCing adventures with it once you've put it in your board.

Just as an FYI, I'm afraid you were misled when someone told you (or you read) that "Opterons aren't so great for overclocking."







There's a whole lot of us here rocking with Opterons.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Poser*









...uhhhhhh

good ole fashioned hard CMOS reset (power down, discharge caps, unplug, move jumper, wait an hour, move jumper back, plug-in, and power on)

but now we got a whole new batch of problems... do to address mapping, something has gotten screwy with my network connections. I will keep at it though










Keep at it, Poser my friend!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Ya heard wrong about the Opterons,they are some of the best OC'ers










Agreed. Just check out some of our sigs man. Like mine for example, 1.8Ghz overclocked to 3.0GHz 24/7 happy as can be. That's a 1200MHz overclock (or 67%) for you math majors







. I'm always more than happy to convert new 939 overclockers to Opterons...it makes us both happy







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Agreed. Just check out some of our sigs man. Like mine for example, 1.8Ghz overclocked to 3.0GHz 24/7 happy as can be. That's a 1200MHz overclock (or 67%) for you math majors







. I'm always more than happy to convert new 939 overclockers to Opterons...it makes us both happy







.


Ooh.

pioneer, EXCELLENT math skillz there.

Most impressive.









(Pssst, everyone: Just so you know, I saw pioneer use a calculator three times to come up with that "67%" figure...

I'm just sayin'...







)










Whatcha all doin' at 9:39 tonight?


----------



## GuardianOdin

OCCT tells ya right of the bat







just so's ya knows


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


OCCT tells ya right of the bat







just so's ya knows












pioneer! You bounder! You cheat!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Ooh.

pioneer, EXCELLENT math skillz there.

Most impressive.









(Pssst, everyone: Just so you know, I saw pioneer use a calculator three times to come up with that "67%" figure...

I'm just sayin'...







)










Whatcha all doin' at 9:39 tonight?










ROFL...in all honesty, I do believe you actually DID see my use Windows Calculator 3 times to get that 67%. I believe that was in the old Opteron thread.

And doh! I never even realized OCCT stated the percentage (till AFTER I used calculator 3 different freakin times)!!! <<<<P Chicken = idiot to the max!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*











pioneer! You bounder! You cheat!











LOL


----------



## natev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Hope you got a good OCing FX-60!







And please do tell us about your OCing adventures with it once you've put it in your board.

Just as an FYI, I'm afraid you were misled when someone told you (or you read) that "Opterons aren't so great for overclocking."







There's a whole lot of us here rocking with Opterons.









Keep at it, Poser my friend!










I will let ya know how the ocin goes. I really need to get an aftermarket cooler though. I have always been scared of liquid cooling, so I want to get some high performance fan or somthing. I was also lookin at this. http://www.epowerhousepc.com/asetek-...nce-p-613.html any suggestions??

Currently I have 4x512 MB RAM at DDR266 in bios, but it is OCd to DDR333 speeds. my current mobo only supports DDR333 speeds with 4 DIMM slots being used. So I was thinking about getting 2x1 GB sticks so I can run them at DDR400 speeds plus I will be able to use a 1T command rate. My current ram absolutely will not run DDR400 speeds nor 1T with 4 sticks. So any suggestions on new ram also??

Oh well about not getting an Opteron. I see you guys can get some really high overclocks. simply emazing!! I'm exited to see how high I can OC my fx-60, but I really need an efficient cooler first.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Cooler wise it all depends on your case to be honest. If you have excellent airflow such as the Thermaltake Armor and Antec 900 cases have....you'll want a Cooler such as the Tuniq Tower or Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme. If you have average airflow such as my Apevia case..you'll want something that blows down onto the motherboard...such as a Thermaltake Big Typhoon or Thermaltake BlueOrb II, or Zalman 7000 series. All would be excellent air coolers...price also matters.

If you're unsure of your airflow...best to go with a known good air cooler such as the Big Typhoon (bolt down model ONLY).

RAM Wise:
In my own personal opinion its a waste of money to "upgrade" to 2GB of RAM since you already have 2Gb. If you must....go with the GSkill 2GB kit with red heatspreaders for $99 on newegg.com. Those are great value sticks with tight timings. I would NOT suggest you go for DDR500 or something else out of the ordinary as those will be quite expensive and not really worth the trouble. You've always got a divider....and on 939 setups you've almost got to use one anyway.

Hope this helps.


----------



## natev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Cooler wise it all depends on your case to be honest. If you have excellent airflow such as the Thermaltake Armor and Antec 900 cases have....you'll want a Cooler such as the Tuniq Tower or Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme. If you have average airflow such as my Apevia case..you'll want something that blows down onto the motherboard...such as a Thermaltake Big Typhoon or Thermaltake BlueOrb II, or Zalman 7000 series. All would be excellent air coolers...price also matters.

If you're unsure of your airflow...best to go with a known good air cooler such as the Big Typhoon (bolt down model ONLY).

RAM Wise:
In my own personal opinion its a waste of money to "upgrade" to 2GB of RAM since you already have 2Gb. If you must....go with the GSkill 2GB kit with red heatspreaders for $99 on newegg.com. Those are great value sticks with tight timings. I would NOT suggest you go for DDR500 or something else out of the ordinary as those will be quite expensive and not really worth the trouble. You've always got a divider....and on 939 setups you've almost got to use one anyway.

Hope this helps.


My mobo only supports ddr400 anyways. So i was thinking of gettin some 2x1 GB of ddr333 Ram and OC it too ddr400 speeds.

I want to upgrade because with 4x512MB sticks, my mobo only supports ddr333 speeds, and I can only run the command rate at 2T.

So if i get 2x1GB sticks supposedly Ill be able to run at ddr400 speeds with 1T.

I will check out those fans though thanks


----------



## Poser

Quote:


Originally Posted by *natev* 
My mobo only supports ddr400 anyways. So i was thinking of gettin some 2x1 GB of ddr333 Ram and OC it too ddr400 speeds.

I want to upgrade because with 4x512MB sticks, my mobo only supports ddr333 speeds, and I can only run the command rate at 2T.

So if i get 2x1GB sticks supposedly Ill be able to run at ddr400 speeds with 1T.

I will check out those fans though thanks









DDR 400 refers to a 1:1 divider... i.e. running your FSB (HTT) and multi at an equal ratio to your memory.

e.g. HTT = 220 x Multi (10) for a clock of 2.2ghz with your mem running at 220mhz or DDR440

Basically its telling you that your board is capable of running Double Data Rate Memory in a 1:1 ratio with your HTT or front side bus

so you can run memory in you board at DDR500 by running your FSB at 250 in a 1:1 ratio with mem controller


----------



## natev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Poser*


DDR 400 refers to a 1:1 divider... i.e. running your FSB (HTT) and multi at an equal ratio to your memory.

e.g. HTT = 220 x Multi (10) for a clock of 2.2ghz with your mem running at 220mhz or DDR440

Basically its telling you that your board is capable of running Double Data Rate Memory in a 1:1 ratio with your HTT or front side bus

so you can run memory in you board at DDR500 by running your FSB at 250 in a 1:1 ratio with mem controller


currently im at fsb 250 multi 11.5 ram ddr266 in bios.

im relatively new to this, but this has been one of the more stable overclocks ive done. it passed the 32M superpi stress. It also ran SP2004 on blend for a little over 2 hours before I stopped it.

im a little unclear about the divider rules. is the divider different if my motherboard only supported up to ddr333?

but if i wanted to run ddr500. fsb 250 x 10 mem ddr400 in bios?


----------



## Oscuro

You know, I just came to a rather funny realization:
What could I have gotten for my money instead of this:

Asus 8800GTX - $450
G.Skill DDR500 (Can't remember size) - $162.50
WD500 gig HD - $105 American
Opteron 170 - $155.06
CM Stacker 810 - $194.72

Corsair 620HX PSU
Noctua NH-U9F
LG SATA Burner
3x Noctua NF-S12-1200 fans - $316.01
_______________
Total: $1383.29

....
I better hope I FULLY appreciate this Opty 170!!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *natev*


currently im at fsb 250 multi 11.5 ram ddr266 in bios.

im relatively new to this, but this has been one of the more stable overclocks ive done. it passed the 32M superpi stress. It also ran SP2004 on blend for a little over 2 hours before I stopped it.

im a little unclear about the divider rules. is the divider different if my motherboard only supported up to ddr333?

but if i wanted to run ddr500. fsb 250 x 10 mem ddr400 in bios?


Not a problem if your confused at first. RAM is a pain in the arse to get to work the way you want. Here's a little helpful guide. If you've got DDR400, then these settings will keep you in the "safe" zone right around 200MHz (DDR400):

200-210FSB - 200MHz divider (DDR400)
211-250FSB - 166MHz divider (DDR333)
251-333FSB - 133MHz divider (DDR266)
334+FSB - 100MHz divider (DDR200)

Now you see, what happens is when you turn your FSB speed up, your RAM speed goes up with it. For example, if you have DDR500, you set your divider to 200MHz (DDR400), and up your FSB to 250. That will also put your RAM at 250MHz...which in turn is DDR500. Your board CAN AND WILL run 4 sticks at DDR400 speeds...it might just take some work to get it there. When you're overclocking...check CPUz after tuning something. It tells you what your RAM is currently running at. Right now I'll bet you're right around DDR333 speeds (166MHz ish). I'll bet if you switch it to the 166 divider (DDR333), your RAM will shoot up to around 212MHz (or DDR424), and I'll bet it'd work fine. The settings I listed above will keep your RAM right around 200MHz (DDR400)...and won't go higher than 212MHz (DDR424).

Now if you are absolutely dead set on spending money on some RAM this kit will not steer you wrong, I promise. If you want to play it safe with the kit I listed....use the divider settings I listed.

Hope this helped.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Now I'm sure most of you have heard the rumor that higher front side bus and lower multiplier means a faster computer. Well today I'm here to test that theory! I need some volunteer software benchmarks I can run. Now the test system:

My Sig Rig:
Opty 165
2GB of DDR500 OCZ Platinum
ASUS A8N32-SLI Deluxe Motherboard
I mean...c'mon its all in my sig.

Anyways...here are the variables:
I'm going to adjust the following:

Test 1:
FSB - 333MHz
Multi - 9x
HT Link - 3x
RAM Divider - 133MHz (DDR266)
Timings - 3,3,2,7,2T

Test 2:
FSB - 370+ (whatever I can wrastle stable..currently testing 370)
Multi - 8x
HT Link - 2x
RAM Divider - 133MHz (DDR266)
Timings - 3,3,2,7,2T

Now the reason I'm thinking test 2 might just end up faster is mainly the RAM. On test 1, my RAM ends up running at 214MHz (DDR428). Not all that impressive. On test 2 however, my RAM ends up running at 247MHz (might as well call it DDR500). Another variable is the front side bus. I'm thinking the extra front side bus speed IS actually making a difference afterall...even though I lose roughly 40MHz off my overclock.

I also believe all this to be true because when using test settings 1...my desktop loads REAALLLL slow. Like 2-3 minutes or so. With test settings 2...its almost an instantaneous load time. I love it!

So anyways....let me know what benchmarks you'd like to see pertaining to this, and I'll see if I can make them work. Will keep you fellas updated with stability once its reached....and what speed and so on.

EDIT: OMG ROFL



































!!!!

Look twice here guys. Check out my hopeful FSB speed....and look what post number I've taken for this project???? See anything worth laughing about, lol?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Alright guys sorry for now triple posting....but I think these deserve seperate posts.

370 x 8 (test setup 2) is 100% OCCT stable. Orthos causes BSOD. But that's fine...OCCT stable is all I need for these tests. So now I just need a list of benchmarks you guys would like to see ran. 3DMark...leave that out...I doubt it'd help any there. Anything else, just let me know.


----------



## thlnk3r

Pioneer, if you hit 400HTT I'll send you a used 70mm fan


----------



## Poser

Pioneer... any of the sandra suite test.... everest benches.... those would be nice.

Also... do we really think that my mem-controller reached max saturation at 158mhz (ddr316) with 4*1gb stix of ram. I have tried mutliple timings, fsb and multi combos only to find that as soon as try to push over 158mhz... I cant boot. Either at 2.8ghz or 2.2ghz same result. Am I sacrificing overall performance by going with 4gb ram (although the system does seem altogether snappier)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Alright guys sorry for now triple posting....but I think these deserve seperate posts.

370 x 8 (test setup 2) is 100% OCCT stable. Orthos causes BSOD. But that's fine...OCCT stable is all I need for these tests. So now I just need a list of benchmarks you guys would like to see ran. 3DMark...leave that out...I doubt it'd help any there. Anything else, just let me know.

I suggest a test recording RAM bandwidth (SiSoft SANDRA?).


----------



## thlnk3r

Poser, that reminds me. I had a OC while back with a Opteron 146 and 4 sticks of memory. It was 4x256 sticks of Corsair DDR400 XMS low latency memory. I believe the factory timings were 2-3-2-6 2T. I was able to OC from 2Ghz to 2.6Ghz stable with my memory OC'ed to 217mhz. It ran great for the longest time


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Poser* 

Also... do we really think that my mem-controller reached max saturation at 158mhz (ddr316) with 4*1gb stix of ram. I have tried mutliple timings, fsb and multi combos only to find that as soon as try to push over 158mhz... I cant boot. Either at 2.8ghz or 2.2ghz same result. Am I sacrificing overall performance by going with 4gb ram (although the system does seem altogether snappier)

Wish I had a definitive answer based on experience, Poser.









Perhaps a similar battery of tests on your system as pioneer will be running imminently on his can shed some light on this?


----------



## pioneerisloud

I couldn't possibly shed any light on the 4x1GB sticks of RAM dilemma. The only thing I could suggest would be to turn all settings to stock with RAM at 1:1 (DDR400) and give that a shot. Also use stock timings. That would tell you if its the RAM that's at fault or not.


----------



## Poser

interesting... that is a thought that I will definitely try...

go 1:1 starting at 150fsb a step up a mhz each time, seeing where I fail to boot. I think we are going to have to go with a fresh install of the OS after this little experiement.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Poser* 
interesting... that is a thought that I will definitely try...

go 1:1 starting at 150fsb a step up a mhz each time, seeing where I fail to boot. I think we are going to have to go with a fresh install of the OS after this little experiement.

I'd say start at 200MHz to be honest as that's your stock speeds.


----------



## Tigerplayer

just found out about this club for the greatest socket out there...

OCs and CPU-zs of the CPU wil come once I get home


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tigerplayer*


just found out about this club for the greatest socket out there...

OCs and CPU-zs of the CPU wil come once I get home


WELCOME! Enjoy the show!


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pioneer, if you hit 400HTT I'll send you a used 70mm fan


















Ill send you a fire extinguisher


----------



## Gothic Case

Bit of off-topic here, but should be helpful for everyone....

I'd like our good friend *GuardianOdin* to give us some tips on how to stabilize that CCBBE 0615DPMW @ 3GHz... same chip as mine.. just 5 weeks younger...

I mean.. how far did you go @ stock volts, what kind of voltage was needed for 2.9GHz, 2.95GHz, 3.0GHz for PI... then for 3dmark01... 3dmark06... prime/orthos/occt... you know...

Did you have to lower LDT multiplier? Increase RAM divider to make it run slower, even knowing it was stable at that speed?

Well... enough questions! lol


----------



## Poser

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I'd say start at 200MHz to be honest as that's your stock speeds.

I simply can't boot into the OS with the mem running at anything over 160mhz. Here's the rub, I have orthos running 8hrs strong now @ 2.86mhz...but on a 3/5 divider. Now the system does "seem" more responsive as a result of the additional RAM. But my question is... is a near 90mhz drop in mem-clock worth the additional RAM, or am I sacrificing too much throughput and overall performance?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Poser* 
I simply can't boot into the OS with the mem running at anything over 160mhz. Here's the rub, I have orthos running 8hrs strong now @ 2.86mhz...but on a 3/5 divider. Now the system does "seem" more responsive as a result of the additional RAM. But my question is... is a near 90mhz drop in mem-clock worth the additional RAM, or am I sacrificing too much throughput and overall performance?

Poser, 90mhz is quite a difference. I'm 15mhz under stock and haven't noticed anything different. If your wanting your memory close to stock or a little bit over, try dropping the multiplier on the processor to 10 and run a higher HTT. You could even try 9x. What does your chipset do in regards to max HTT?

Good luck


----------



## Death Dealer

Just got the ASUS A8N32-SLI deluxe will be testing as many boards this weekend as possible. I wish I had a techstation


----------



## Poser

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Poser, 90mhz is quite a difference. I'm 15mhz under stock and haven't noticed anything different. If your wanting your memory close to stock or a little bit over, try dropping the multiplier on the processor to 10 and run a higher HTT. You could even try 9x. What does your chipset do in regards to max HTT?

Good luck











I probably have made myself really clear...









I have tried every conceivable permutation of multi and HTT, I simply can't get this sob to boot past ddr320... the on die mem-con seems to be too saturated with the 4gb

So I am now faced with 2.9ghz @ DDR486 2*1gb or 2.9ghz @DDR 320 4*1gb

can you feel my dilemma... its like, do you want a damned fine Jessica Biel or a smoking hot, but pregnant Jessica Alba...


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gothic Case*


Bit of off-topic here, but should be helpful for everyone....

I'd like our good friend *GuardianOdin* to give us some tips on how to stabilize that CCBBE 0615DPMW @ 3GHz... same chip as mine.. just 5 weeks younger...

I mean.. how far did you go @ stock volts, what kind of voltage was needed for 2.9GHz, 2.95GHz, 3.0GHz for PI... then for 3dmark01... 3dmark06... prime/orthos/occt... you know...

Did you have to lower LDT multiplier? Increase RAM divider to make it run slower, even knowing it was stable at that speed?

Well... enough questions! lol


Oops,was sleeping









334 x 9 Multiplier "of course"
LDT is 2.5, but can stay 3. 
CPU volts are 1.425V with special Vid at 104%
Chipset volts are default.
RAM G.Skill HZ DDR500 default Volts (set at 150-166 in BIOS)

RAM timing is key here. Particular the sub-timings. Keep the RAM loose and play with the sub-timings until they are stable.


----------



## Gothic Case

By subtimings you mean Trrd - Trwt - Twr - Twtr only, right?

I keep those @ 2-2-2-3, and 0-2-1-3 for benching... with those Gskill HZ...


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gothic Case* 
By subtimings you mean Trrd - Trwt - Twr - Twtr only, right?

I keep those @ 2-2-2-3, and 0-2-1-3 for benching... with those Gskill HZ...

check this thread here for the G.Skill HZ DDR500 Timings and sub-timings


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Poser*


I probably have made myself really clear...









I have tried every conceivable permutation of multi and HTT, I simply can't get this sob to boot past ddr320... the on die mem-con seems to be too saturated with the 4gb

So I am now faced with 2.9ghz @ DDR486 2*1gb or 2.9ghz @DDR 320 4*1gb

can you feel my dilemma... its like, do you want a damned fine Jessica Biel or a smoking hot, but pregnant Jessica Alba...


Poser, have you tried testing with completely different memory? What is the max frequency with 4 sticks of memory and 2 sticks of memory?


----------



## Poser

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Poser, have you tried testing with completely different memory? What is the max frequency with 4 sticks of memory and 2 sticks of memory?


Only these stix

2 max: 271 stable
4 max: 161 stable


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tigerplayer*


just found out about this club for the greatest socket out there...

OCs and CPU-zs of the CPU wil come once I get home


We await your screenshot/validation, Tigerplayer!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Poser*


Only these stix

2 max: 271 stable
4 max: 161 stable


Poser, sorry I'm a little confused. Is this the system in your sig or is this a totally different system? Looks like running 2 sticks of memory might yield a higher OC.


----------



## NeRoToXeN

I'll be more than happy to join this club!!!









http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...n-suicide.html Theres my suicide. I'll pm you with the good stuff later gotta head back upstairs!!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *NeRoToXeN* 
I'll be more than happy to join this club!!!









http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...n-suicide.html Theres my suicide. I'll pm you with the good stuff later gotta head back upstairs!!

Excellent!


----------



## timxirish

Add me to the list!









Athlon 64 3500+ Venice @ 2.34Ghz

Also, my new processor which is being shipped to me right now:

Opteron 165 CCB1E @ 3.0Ghz (hopefully







, but at least 2.8)


----------



## Poser

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Poser, sorry I'm a little confused. Is this the system in your sig or is this a totally different system? Looks like running 2 sticks of memory might yield a higher OC.

I am sorry...

it is my sig rig, whose 24/7 oclock is available on our roster, and I am trying to up the amount of RAM by adding matching 2*1gb HZs


----------



## txtmstrjoe

timxirish, we'd be ecstatic to add you to our roster.









All we need is a CPU-Z validation link/screenshot, and you get to have your name in lights on the club's official roster on the first page of this thread.









Glad to see quite a surprising number of OCNers still rocking with a really classic platform that can still hold its own today.

And our horde is still growing, too...


----------



## timxirish

Heh, alright man, no problem. At the moment I'm out of town, but I'll definitely snatch that CPU-Z validation and screen from my 3500+ when I get back. Then I install my Opty







.

After that my 3500+ will have to sit out until I can find myself a Tforce 6100-939 or a GeForce 6100-M9 mobo.


----------



## endo

add me please AMD Athlon 64 FX-60 @ 2800MHz


----------



## pioneerisloud

Dude...you GOTTA overclock that FX chip!

Update on my testing...I'll be installing SiSoft Sandra and Everest (already have Everest installed). What particular benchmarks do you guys want to see? I've never benched with these before...so talk like I'm a noob. Again...test settings for those that missed it:

Test 1:
333 x 9
214MHz RAM @ 3,3,2,7,2T
3x HT Link

Test 2:
370 x 8
247MHz RAM @ 3,3,2,7,2T
2x HT Link

I'm testing for an actual faster response time based off higher memory and FSB speeds. I'm unsure which is doing it...but my system is WAY MORE responsive at the higher FSB/RAM speed but slower clock speed. Anyways, just awaiting to be told which benchies to do.

Also...if this proves that the RAM is the difference...I'll be attempting AROUND 2.8GHz with my RAM at 250ish Mhz for a 24/7 overclock. I'm hoping to actually get my desktop to load in less than 5 freakin minutes, lol.


----------



## Poser

I had excellent responsiveness with a 2.9ghz cpu clock and mem running at 243... but it was a low FSB and high multi (265*11)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

endo is now one of us!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *timxirish* 
Heh, alright man, no problem. At the moment I'm out of town, but I'll definitely snatch that CPU-Z validation and screen from my 3500+ when I get back. Then I install my Opty







.

After that my 3500+ will have to sit out until I can find myself a Tforce 6100-939 or a GeForce 6100-M9 mobo.









timxirish, get yourself on home!







Your Opteron awaits you.

Heh, I have a TForce 6100-939 in my office machine (X2 3800+ Manchester OCed to 2.5GHz). It's a GREAT motherboard. I used to have another one I kept as a spare, but sold it to an OCNer last year.

Hope you find one!


----------



## sgtdisturbed47

You know what? I'm not currently using a socket 939 AMD, but I used to have a good gaming rig that had a DFI LANParty UT Ultra-D, AMD X2 3800+, 2 gigs DDR 400, 7600GT, and I had *A LOT* of fun with that setup.

I had just gotten into OCing at that time, and had upgraded the system from a P4 Prescott, Asus P4S8X-MX mobo, and GeForce 6600 AGP (but kept the RAM, monitor, hard drives, and tower). I learned so much about OCing with that AMD rig, and I pretty much owe all of my knowledge today about OCing to that rig. I sold it on eBay for about $1,100 back in early '06. I miss it because you know, every computer, when you build it from the ground up and really get a feel for it, has a sort of character of its own and that tough son-of-a-***** really knew how to throw down. I pushed my AMD X2 3800+ to 2.6 GHz, dropped the RAM down to 333, and it ran silky smooth by yesterday's standards. It took a while for me to learn how to OC but that rig had all of the potential to really allow me to get the hang of it and for me to experience the awesome rewards of true OCing.

So, for all it has done for me, I am here to show my appreciation for the AMD socket 939 builds.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sgtdisturbed47* 
You know what? I'm not currently using a socket 939 AMD, but I used to have a good gaming rig that had a DFI LANParty UT Ultra-D, AMD X2 3800+, 2 gigs DDR 400, 7600GT, and I had *A LOT* of fun with that setup.

I had just gotten into OCing at that time, and had upgraded the system from a P4 Prescott, Asus P4S8X-MX mobo, and GeForce 6600 AGP (but kept the RAM, monitor, hard drives, and tower). I learned so much about OCing with that AMD rig, and I pretty much owe all of my knowledge today about OCing to that rig. I sold it on eBay for about $1,100 back in early '06. I miss it because you know, every computer, when you build it from the ground up and really get a feel for it, has a sort of character of its own and that tough son-of-a-***** really knew how to throw down. I pushed my AMD X2 3800+ to 2.6 GHz, dropped the RAM down to 333, and it ran silky smooth by yesterday's standards. It took a while for me to learn how to OC but that rig had all of the potential to really allow me to get the hang of it and for me to experience the awesome rewards of true OCing.

So, for all it has done for me, I am here to show my appreciation for the AMD socket 939 builds.

These S939s really do teach you a lot of techniques that you can still use today, don't they? And I agree with you completely: They're still so much fun to overclock and can still perform well enough even compared to all but the very best (quad-cores) out there.

If you still have a CPU-Z validation link or screenshot somewhere, we'll add you to our roster; after all, it's clear that you have a very deep appreciation for Socket 939, and that's what this club is all about.









(If you don't have a CPU-Z validation anymore, well... I'll talk to thlnk3r and pioneerisloud and see if we can add a new "category" to our roster: S939 Nostalgic Members.)

Thanks for dropping by, sgtdisturbed47!







We are honored by your presence.


----------



## Mr. Mojo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sgtdisturbed47* 
You know what? I'm not currently using a socket 939 AMD, but I used to have a good gaming rig that had a DFI LANParty UT Ultra-D, AMD X2 3800+, 2 gigs DDR 400, 7600GT, and I had *A LOT* of fun with that setup.

I had just gotten into OCing at that time, and had upgraded the system from a P4 Prescott, Asus P4S8X-MX mobo, and GeForce 6600 AGP (but kept the RAM, monitor, hard drives, and tower). I learned so much about OCing with that AMD rig, and I pretty much owe all of my knowledge today about OCing to that rig. I sold it on eBay for about $1,100 back in early '06. I miss it because you know, every computer, when you build it from the ground up and really get a feel for it, has a sort of character of its own and that tough son-of-a-***** really knew how to throw down. I pushed my AMD X2 3800+ to 2.6 GHz, dropped the RAM down to 333, and it ran silky smooth by yesterday's standards. It took a while for me to learn how to OC but that rig had all of the potential to really allow me to get the hang of it and for me to experience the awesome rewards of true OCing.

So, for all it has done for me, I am here to show my appreciation for the AMD socket 939 builds.

While my 3700 wasn't my first OC build, it was definitely my favorite and I learned more from it than any other build. That CPU is bulletproof. It outlasted RAM, a GPU, a PSU failure, and a mobo, it's been overvolted and overheated countless times, and it's still kicking today. Paired with an OC'd 7900GS, it still beats my current sig rig in most games.


----------



## DUNC4N

Woot 939 won't die!

(As long as my wife who controls my money still lives here...)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mr. Mojo* 
While my 3700 wasn't my first OC build, it was definitely my favorite and I learned more from it than any other build. That CPU is bulletproof. It outlasted RAM, a GPU, a PSU failure, and a mobo, it's been overvolted and overheated countless times, and it's still kicking today. Paired with an OC'd 7900GS, *it still beats my current sig rig in most games*.











Really?

Most impressive.

My first CPU was an Athlon64 3700+ San Diego; it wasn't the first chip I overclocked, though. It's marvelous and resilient, and it has been passed on to two other users near and dear to me: I gave it to my dad when I upgraded his rig (from an A64 3200+), then I gave it to my best friend in the world Rick when my dad got my X2 4400+ Toledo (which was the very first chip I ever OCed).

That Sandy might be making its way back to me soon; I'm giving my best friend a new dual-core CPU imminently.

I'll have to see just how far that San Diego can go...









Quote:


Originally Posted by *DUNC4N* 
Woot 939 won't die!

Well, it likely will, but not anytime soon, I reckon.

Especially since we'll do our best to keep it alive.

DUNC4N, would you like to be added to our group? You're definitely invited!


----------



## Mr. Mojo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DUNC4N* 
Woot 939 won't die!

(As long as my wife who controls my money still lives here...)









The funny thing is I gave my 939 rig to my wife, then later on built my sig rig to give to her so I could have the 939 back









I use the sig rig for most stuff because it's in my bedroom, but I play most of my games on the 939.


----------



## DUNC4N

Count me in then, and thanks txtmstrjoe.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DUNC4N* 
Count me in then, and thanks txtmstrjoe.









Welcome, good sir! We're glad to have you.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Poser* 
I am sorry...

it is my sig rig, whose 24/7 oclock is available on our roster, and I am trying to up the amount of RAM by adding matching 2*1gb HZs

Poser, ahhh ok sorry about that.


----------



## timxirish

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
timxirish, get yourself on home!







Your Opteron awaits you.

Heh, I have a TForce 6100-939 in my office machine (X2 3800+ Manchester OCed to 2.5GHz). It's a GREAT motherboard. I used to have another one I kept as a spare, but sold it to an OCNer last year.

Hope you find one!

Thanks to a bit of good luck, I did.







. The guy who sold me the Opteron had one of those tforce boards on ebay, and I *almost* had it until some guy who was camping the auction sniped it from me in the last 30 seconds. Yeah, right about then my blood was boiling.. but fortunately the guy had a second one he listed on Buy It Now where the buyer didn't pay for the item.. So since i was the second highest bidder on his auction, he offered it to me, and I'm currently working out payment with him.

It definitely is a great board, and probably the best matx 939 board you can buy, so I am definitely excited to test it out and OC with it







. It's in no way going to replace my Lanparty UT nf4 Ultra-D (i love that board), but it's going to be the root of a great lan machine







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *timxirish* 
Thanks to a bit of good luck, I did.







. The guy who sold me the Opteron had one of those tforce boards on ebay, and I *almost* had it until some guy who was camping the auction sniped it from me in the last 30 seconds. Yeah, right about then my blood was boiling.. but fortunately the guy had a second one he listed on Buy It Now where the buyer didn't pay for the item.. So since i was the second highest bidder on his auction, he offered it to me, and I'm currently working out payment with him.

It definitely is a great board, and probably the best matx 939 board you can buy, so I am definitely excited to test it out and OC with it







. It's in no way going to replace my Lanparty UT nf4 Ultra-D (i love that board), but it's going to be the root of a great lan machine







.

Sweetness!

Don't you just love it when things work out, even if it's completely due to luck?


----------



## natev

got the fx-60 yesterday.

my first stable overclock. multiplier can go up to x14. after that it crashes. maybe with some more attempts i can get it at 15, but im going to wait to really crank this baby until I get a top of the line heatsink and fan or something.

took out 1G of ram because it wont run at 250 fsb with the mem divider at ddr333 with 4 sticks. With 2 Gigs I had to put the mem divider at 266 for it to run 250x12. and when i have the mem divider at ddr400 with 2x512 sticks.. my comp don't even boot if I raise my fsb. It really seems to me my ram is limited to 200 mhz with 2 sticks, and a little over 160 mhz with 4 sticks. It is not bad ram, I think its just my motherboard.

also I tried runnin at 1.475 Volts, and it crashed right at the end of superpi 32M. I upped the voltage to 1.5 V and it completed 32M @ 27 Minutes 8 secs.



http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=318108


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *natev* 
got the fx-60 yesterday.

my first stable overclock. multiplier can go up to x14. after that it crashes. maybe with some more attempts i can get it at 15, but im going to wait to really crank this baby until I get a top of the line heatsink and fan or something.

took out 1G of ram because it wont run at 250 fsb with the mem divider at ddr333 with 4 sticks. With 2 Gigs I had to put the mem divider at 266 for it to run 250x12. and when i have the mem divider at ddr400 with 2x512 sticks.. my comp don't even boot if I raise my fsb. It really seems to me my ram is limited to 200 mhz with 2 sticks, and a little over 160 mhz with 4 sticks. It is not bad ram, I think its just my motherboard.

also I tried runnin at 1.475 Volts, and it crashed right at the end of superpi 32M. I upped the voltage to 1.5 V and it completed 32M @ 27 Minutes 8 secs.



http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=318108

Nate, your HT might be the problem. Drop the HT multiplier from 4x to 3x and try to up the HTT to see if you can get anymore out of it. Make sure your Orthos stable for at least 6-7hrs at priority 9 (blend test). I would rather just play with the multiplier as oppose to raising the HTT. You might have better luck adjusting the multiplier. If you can post at 250HTT * 12x then I don't see a problem posting at 200HTT * 15x.

Good luck


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *natev* 
got the fx-60 yesterday.

my first stable overclock. multiplier can go up to x14. after that it crashes. maybe with some more attempts i can get it at 15, but im going to wait to really crank this baby until I get a top of the line heatsink and fan or something.

took out 1G of ram because it wont run at 250 fsb with the mem divider at ddr333 with 4 sticks. With 2 Gigs I had to put the mem divider at 266 for it to run 250x12. and when i have the mem divider at ddr400 with 2x512 sticks.. my comp don't even boot if I raise my fsb. It really seems to me my ram is limited to 200 mhz with 2 sticks, and a little over 160 mhz with 4 sticks. It is not bad ram, I think its just my motherboard.

also I tried runnin at 1.475 Volts, and it crashed right at the end of superpi 32M. I upped the voltage to 1.5 V and it completed 32M @ 27 Minutes 8 secs.



http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=318108


In BIOS drop the RAM to 150 or 166
Lower the HT
set Voltage to 1.425-1.450
250x12

You should be able to keep 2Gb's of RAM in it with no issues


----------



## txtmstrjoe

natev, thanks for the FX-60 update! I've added it to your spot on the roster.

I would also like to welcome sgtdisturbed47 as our first "S939 Nostalgic" member! He doesn't have a S939 system active anymore, but still loves the platform dearly.

Finally, thlnk3r and I want to say thanks to everyone so far for making this such a great OCN sub-group. You guys rock!

"What time is it?"


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
"What time is it?"









1:01 PM PST?









9:39


----------



## Karashi

Yay I found people using 'real' hardware!

Athlon 64 4000+
Abit AN8
Corsair DDR400

Will get back to you on the core, I think it's San Diego.
Also got a 3500+ Venice sitting in the cupboard, just incase I fry the 4000+.

Was going to go C2D a little while back, but I see no point. If I OC this thing, my HD 3850 is the bottleneck, even at 1280x.


----------



## natev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Nate, your HT might be the problem. Drop the HT multiplier from 4x to 3x and try to up the HTT to see if you can get anymore out of it. Make sure your Orthos stable for at least 6-7hrs at priority 9 (blend test). I would rather just play with the multiplier as oppose to raising the HTT. You might have better luck adjusting the multiplier. If you can post at 250HTT * 12x then I don't see a problem posting at 200HTT * 15x.

Good luck










droppin ht didnt help.

also i finally got 15x to boot. I kept gettin lots of blue screens.

200x15 @ ddr333 with 4x512. cpu volts at 1.5. it gave me a blue screen a few times with the exact same settings. then finally it decided to boot









ran orthos, but it stopped 2 minutes into it. it may be more stable with my ram at ddr266 but then I would have to up my bus speed to increase the ram speed but im still on stock coolin so i dont wanna oc too much.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


In BIOS drop the RAM to 150 or 166
Lower the HT
set Voltage to 1.425-1.450
250x12

You should be able to keep 2Gb's of RAM in it with no issues


tried all that. my ram divider options are ddr200, 266, 333, 400, 433 and on.

I can run 2 gigs, but i have to lower my divider to 266 if i want to raise my bus speed. I cant keep my divider at 333 and raise my bus speed with 4 sticks.

All my overclocks of the FSB fail when i have the 333 divider with 4 sticks. I have tried to up my ram timings, up the voltage, and ive used ht x5 and x4.

I am pretty sure its my motherboard holding back the ram. I have never got past 170 mhz with 4 sticks in. highest ive ever gotten with 2 sticks in is 210. mhz.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Karashi*


Yay I found people using 'real' hardware!

Athlon 64 4000+
Abit AN8
Corsair DDR400

Will get back to you on the core, I think it's San Diego.
Also got a 3500+ Venice sitting in the cupboard, just incase I fry the 4000+.

Was going to go C2D a little while back, but I see no point. If I OC this thing, my HD 3850 is the bottleneck, even at 1280x.


That's the spirit, Karashi!









We'd love to add you to our roster, but we need one small thing from you: A CPU-Z validation link/screenshot, so that we can formally add your name to our growing horde of enthusiasts who still appreciate a real classic. Once we have that, we own you. LOL Just kidding.









BTW, the 4000+ is a San Diego indeed.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Holy wow this thread is growing fast. BTW...everybody should keep your eyes open for my "project"







.


----------



## Poser

@natev.... I have some good news for you, and of course some not so good new for you. If you have been reading this entire thread, you will see that I am also trying to run 4 stix of RAM in my NF4 Expert.

with two stix... I can hit DDR 486 (243mhz) stable @ 2.9ghz
with four stix... I can hit DDR 320 (160mhz) stable @ 2.9ghz

The good news - I think based on our similar experience, you can rule out your motherboard and RAM as the bottleneck

The bad news - based on the same information... I think we can identify that on die integrated memory controller as the weak link.

I have definitely seen that my rig w/4gig @ 2.9 DDR 320 is far more responsive than my rig @ DDR486 2.9 w/2gig in vista... I am just curious what kind of hit I will take when gaming


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I tend to agree with your analysis, Poser.

Here's how I understand it: Having 2GB of RAM (amount chosen because most S939 boards have four DIMM slots) can be done in two combinations. Either you have two 1GB DIMMs, or you have four 512MB DIMMs. Two GBs is 2GBs, right? Well, think about yourself trying to lift two hundred pounds. Would you have an easier time carrying two 100lb weights compared to four 50lb weights?

(This is the best analogy I can come up with to illustrate a point.







)

I think it's not just RAM capacity that stresses the IMC; your findings, as well as natev's, suggests that four DIMMs really makes the IMC work a lot harder. This is also one reason that most S939 motherboards cannot run DDR400 with four DIMMs installed, nor at CPC 1T.

Mind you, this is merely a personal analysis. I've not read anything "official" from AMD which confirms this behavior in the platform, but there are enough accounts of similar things happening to other similarly-configured systems to assume that this is normal behavior for S939.


----------



## Poser

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I tend to agree with your analysis, Poser.

Here's how I understand it: Having 2GB of RAM (amount chosen because most S939 boards have four DIMM slots) can be done in two combinations. Either you have two 1GB DIMMs, or you have four 512MB DIMMs. Two GBs is 2GBs, right? Well, think about yourself trying to lift two hundred pounds. Would you have an easier time carrying two 100lb weights compared to four 50lb weights?

(This is the best analogy I can come up with to illustrate a point.







)

I think it's not just RAM capacity that stresses the IMC; your findings, as well as natev's, suggests that four DIMMs really makes the IMC work a lot harder. This is also one reason that most S939 motherboards cannot run DDR400 with four DIMMs installed, nor at CPC 1T.

Mind you, this is merely a personal analysis. I've not read anything "official" from AMD which confirms this behavior in the platform, but there are enough accounts of similar things happening to other similarly-configured systems to assume that this is normal behavior for S939.


Excellent analogy...I think it does illustrate the point succinctly. The distribution of the "weight" can certainly make it easier or more difficult to grapple with. I have yet to come across anyone running a 939 rig who has populated all 4 dimms and achieved above DDR400.

It is not from lack of trying... I have pumped serious voltage into the CPU and LDT, trying to boot @ DDR400 with no avail. I have corrupted my install doing so.... (no big deal, I have installed vista so many times its like brushing my teeth, walking the dog...taking a leak... fricking autopilot). I will continue to try...but am slowly resigned to running 4 dimms underclocked to get the most out of vista.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Poser*


Excellent analogy...I think it does illustrate the point succinctly. The distribution of the "weight" can certainly make it easier or more difficult to grapple with. I have yet to come across anyone running a 939 rig who has populated all 4 dimms and achieved above DDR400.

It is not from lack of trying... I have pumped serious voltage into the CPU and LDT, trying to boot @ DDR400 with no avail. I have corrupted my install doing so.... (no big deal, I have installed vista so many times its like brushing my teeth, walking the dog...taking a leak... fricking autopilot). I will continue to try...but am slowly resigned to running 4 dimms underclocked to get the most out of vista.


As you've found, though, the tradeoff between having 4GBs underclocked vs. 2GBs @ stock (or even OCed) is on the plus side of the scale. You're perceiving a definite improved performance with more RAM in Vista than speedier RAM.

Here's a question: Have you done a bandwidth test comparing 2GBs vs. 4GBs at whatever stable settings you've found for each?

(If I missed this, my apologies.







)


----------



## Poser

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


As you've found, though, the tradeoff between having 4GBs underclocked vs. 2GBs @ stock (or even OCed) is on the plus side of the scale. You're perceiving a definite improved performance with more RAM in Vista than speedier RAM.

Here's a question: Have you done a bandwidth test comparing 2GBs vs. 4GBs at whatever stable settings you've found for each?

(If I missed this, my apologies.







)


I have yet to run everest or sandra.... as I have been way too consumed with trying to run DDR400. I will run both, as soon as I have my OS reinstalled...as I nuked this morning before work.

I would imagine, that the increased clock speads would result in higher througput though, however...as superfetch optimizes and I use higher mem consumption apps, there is no question that the benefit of 4gb will outweigh the decrease in synthetic benching scores (or so I wish to lie to myself







)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Poser*


I have yet to run everest or sandra.... as I have been way too consumed with trying to run DDR400. I will run both, as soon as I have my OS reinstalled...as I nuked this morning before work.

I would imagine, that the increased clock speads would result in higher througput though, however...as superfetch optimizes and I use higher mem consumption apps, there is no question that the benefit of 4gb will outweigh the decrease in synthetic benching scores (or so I wish to lie to myself







)


LOL

Well... please do share your test results when you're able to. I, for one, keenly await your findings.









By the way, I've attached something I'm a little proud of: A screenshot I just took noting my gaming rig's current up-time.









(I know: I'm a wienie...)


----------



## thlnk3r

Joe, that is a pretty cool feature in Everest. I actually didn't know that existed. Goes to show you how much I know about Everest...I mainly use it for temperature monitoring


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Joe, that is a pretty cool feature in Everest. I actually didn't know that existed. Goes to show you how much I know about Everest...I mainly use it for temperature monitoring










LOL It's a pretty mega program. So many uses and abilities.

I'm actually preparing an experiment for this club that will use one of Everest's many useful tools. Very simple experiment.

I'm hoping to be able to run it sometime in the next couple of days.

Stay tuned...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I'm actually preparing an experiment for this club that will use one of Everest's many useful tools. Very simple experiment.

I'm hoping to be able to run it sometime in the next couple of days.

Stay tuned...




















Looking forward to that...


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *natev*


droppin ht didnt help.

also i finally got 15x to boot. I kept gettin lots of blue screens.

200x15 @ ddr333 with 4x512. cpu volts at 1.5. it gave me a blue screen a few times with the exact same settings. then finally it decided to boot









ran orthos, but it stopped 2 minutes into it. it may be more stable with my ram at ddr266 but then I would have to up my bus speed to increase the ram speed but im still on stock coolin so i dont wanna oc too much.

tried all that. my ram divider options are ddr200, 266, 333, 400, 433 and on.

I can run 2 gigs, but i have to lower my divider to 266 if i want to raise my bus speed. I cant keep my divider at 333 and raise my bus speed with 4 sticks.

All my overclocks of the FSB fail when i have the 333 divider with 4 sticks. I have tried to up my ram timings, up the voltage, and ive used ht x5 and x4.

I am pretty sure its my motherboard holding back the ram. I have never got past 170 mhz with 4 sticks in. highest ive ever gotten with 2 sticks in is 210. mhz.


Sounds like it. Your Mobo doesn't have all the options you could be using like an DFI or ASUS Mobo or atleast it doesn't seem to be the case. I have to admit I am not farmiliar with Abit Mobo's


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


I have to admit I am not farmiliar with Abit Mobo's


I think Joe has a Abit motherboard...I can't remember for sure though.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


I think Joe has a Abit motherboard...I can't remember for sure though.


Check MAH sig, yo.










Actually, I run two Abits. The other one is at my parents' house.


----------



## Poser

Everest is full suite of applications, monitoring software and GUI permutations that give you an excellent grasp of the state of your rig.

I personally think it is one of the most comprehensive tools that an OCer/Gamer can have in their arsenal


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Sounds like it. Your Mobo doesn't have all the options you could be using like an DFI or ASUS Mobo or atleast it doesn't seem to be the case. I have to admit I am not farmiliar with Abit Mobo's


For sure, DFI UT LANParty BIOSes are the most comprehensive that I've seen so far; the Asus A8N32-SLI Deluxe is only very slightly less complete, with just a couple of RAM sub-timing settings lacking.

The Abits' BIOSes aren't as full-featured as either the DFIs' or the Asus, lacking finer voltage control and RAM settings in comparison.

In the coming weeks, I hope we can all share motherboard write-ups similar to what GuardianOdin shared with us a couple of days ago, as well as user comments about these S939 boards. I'm preparing several, actually, so as soon as they're ready I'll share them with everyone here.


----------



## thlnk3r

What time is it? Getting close to 9:39 PST


----------



## pioneerisloud

Ahhh dangit! I missed 9:39 PST by one minute!


----------



## Mr. Mojo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


For sure, DFI UT LANParty BIOSes are the most comprehensive that I've seen so far; the Asus A8N32-SLI Deluxe is only very slightly less complete, with just a couple of RAM sub-timing settings lacking.

The Abits' BIOSes aren't as full-featured as either the DFIs' or the Asus, lacking finer voltage control and RAM settings in comparison.

In the coming weeks, I hope we can all share motherboard write-ups similar to what GuardianOdin shared with us a couple of days ago, as well as user comments about these S939 boards. I'm preparing several, actually, so as soon as they're ready I'll share them with everyone here.










I'm running my 3700 on the eVGA NF41 board...bet there aren't many of them around here


----------



## timxirish

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Sweetness!

Don't you just love it when things work out, even if it's completely due to luck?










Oh definitely. And by the way, Rep+ for the thread. Ironic that an appreciation thread would cause me to appreciate my 939 loot.







.. I was thinking about upgrading to newer tech until I realized I could probably be more cost efficient sticking with what I have







.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *timxirish*


Oh definitely. And by the way, Rep+ for the thread. Ironic that an appreciation thread would cause me to appreciate my 939 loot.







.. I was thinking about upgrading to newer tech until I realized I could probably be more cost efficient sticking with what I have







.


Dude, get yourself an Opty 165/170 (if you can find one), another 1GB of RAM, and a decent video card....you'll have one heck of a 939 rig! Seriously....they're not dead yet as most people want you to believe.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Dude, get yourself an Opty 165/170 (if you can find one), another 1GB of RAM, and a decent video card....you'll have one heck of a 939 rig! Seriously....they're not dead yet as most people want you to believe.










939







 is strong


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Dude, get yourself an Opty 165/170 (if you can find one), another 1GB of RAM, and a decent video card....you'll have one heck of a 939 rig! Seriously....they're not dead yet as most people want you to believe.


yah! im getting the opty 165 soon! if u post on ocn, you'll eventually find some people whos sellin the opty's. it took a while for me but i eventually found one. its on its way to me now. 1/3 of the way across the US now. lol... its more cost effective to do an upgrade. opty's oc realy nicely according to a lot of people. it can hold its ground for a while. im hopin to get my hands on some 8800 series video cards if not the 9 series soon. i might get my hands on a q6600 but it wont be my main rig for a while. (dont have the cash to build it rofl).


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


yah! im getting the opty 165 soon! if u post on ocn, you'll eventually find some people whos sellin the opty's. it took a while for me but i eventually found one. its on its way to me now. 1/3 of the way across the US now. lol... its more cost effective to do an upgrade. opty's oc realy nicely according to a lot of people. it can hold its ground for a while. im hopin to get my hands on some 8800 series video cards if not the 9 series soon. i might get my hands on a q6600 but it wont be my main rig for a while. (dont have the cash to build it rofl).


If you get and 8xxx series card right now,I'd say go for an 8800GT.Best bang for the buck at the moment.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


What time is it? Getting close to 9:39 PST



Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Ahhh dangit! I missed 9:39 PST by one minute!


In my world, it's *always* 9:39.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
If you get and 8xxx series card right now,I'd say go for an 8800GT.Best bang for the buck at the moment.

yeah im hopin to get my hands on some 8800gt right now. if not, then 9600gt


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
yeah im hopin to get my hands on some 8800gt right now. if not, then 9600gt

If you get the 9600GT let us know how well it performs.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Agreed....especially once you get an Opty







!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mr. Mojo* 
I'm running my 3700 on the eVGA NF41 board...bet there aren't many of them around here









Mr. Mojo, correct me if I'm wrong, but is the eVGA NF41 the same as the Jetway 939GT4 SLI?

If so, well, we have twin motherboards separated at birth.


----------



## timxirish

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Dude, get yourself an Opty 165/170 (if you can find one), another 1GB of RAM, and a decent video card....you'll have one heck of a 939 rig! Seriously....they're not dead yet as most people want you to believe.


Way ahead of you







. I'm out of town at the moment (and will be until Wednesday), but I do have an Opty 165 (CCB1E) being shipped to me that I will be tossing in my main rig, which is going to be cooled by a Blue Orb II. I know a Tt BT would probably be better, but aesthetics are moderately important to me.

I'm hoping to pick up two more GB of ram (OCZ plat. pack) for dual channel in my main rig sometime soon.. And If I do, I'll probably pawn off my current RAM into the new motherboard (which is going to be my LAN party machine).


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *timxirish*


Way ahead of you







. I'm out of town at the moment (and will be until Wednesday), but I do have an Opty 165 (CCB1E) being shipped to me that I will be tossing in my main rig, which is going to be cooled by a Blue Orb II. I know a Tt BT would probably be better, but aesthetics are moderately important to me.

I'm hoping to pick up two more GB of ram (OCZ plat. pack) for dual channel in my main rig sometime soon.. And If I do, I'll probably pawn off my current RAM into the new motherboard (which is going to be my LAN party machine).


timxirish, that's one stepping batch I've never had the chance to play with (CCB1E); I've never had my hands on one of those chips.

Please regale us with your OCing adventures with yours when you're able to!







I, for one, am looking forward to a CCB1E OC. By statistics and reputation, it's one of the better steppings for Denmark/Toledos.


----------



## timxirish

Yeah, originally I was going to get a CCBWE from the guy, but it had a somewhat big gouge in it (big, if you're all about better heatsink to cpu contact). I wasn't feeling up to lapping that cpu just yet (maybe eventually?), so I took the CCB1E for that reason, and the fact that it had a good reputation.

Oh, and I should be able to get >= 2800 on this cpu.. CCB1E 0550VPMW









Pics of the two 165's the guy had:
http://img82.imageshack.us/my.php?im...weccb1esp0.jpg


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *timxirish*


Yeah, originally I was going to get a CCBWE from the guy, but it had a somewhat big gouge in it (big, if you're all about better heatsink to cpu contact). I wasn't feeling up to lapping that cpu just yet (maybe eventually?), so I took the CCB1E for that reason, and the fact that it had a good reputation.

Oh, and I should be able to get >= 2800 on this cpu.. CCB1E 0550VPMW









Pics of the two 165's the guy had:
http://img82.imageshack.us/my.php?im...weccb1esp0.jpg


Hmm...

Hard to say if that gouge on the IHS would make a difference, to be honest.

The core die sits in the middle of the PCB, and well away from where that gouge is. On the other hand, that would definitely mean a huge gap between the mating surfaces (HSF base and IHS), and if there's no contact, heat transference would likely be compromised.

At any rate, better to stack as many cards in the deck in your favor, no?







I'd have chosen the CCB1E, as well.


----------



## iandroo888

i found a company located in san jose, ca that has quite a few ccb1e's left. NIB apparently. find out how ccb1e's do and maybe ill help the company out a bit and tell people about it ahah

opty is currently departed from HODGKINS, IL. 1/3 of the way to me. should get it sometime next week. how disappointing. i always get new toys when i have major tests following up @[email protected]


----------



## timxirish

Wow, new? What company had them, and for what price? Do they accept paypal?

And just a little bit on the random side, but I actually discovered OCN because of you and your hunt for 165, iandroo888. It was really weird, because when I was googling for where to buy one, I found your post in the Wanted b/s/t forum for one only a day after you posted it. I actually saw you bidding on a few opty's on ebay, but I ended up doing Buy It Now from some guy. I later rediscovered OCN from ksimp's For Sale thread because of his tforce board, but apparently someone already bought it. So far, I've found OCN to be a great community though, so it's been worth staying for.

txtmstrjoe: Oh definitely, and anyway, the CCBWE 0550UPMW averages between 2600 and 2800, so even if the CCBWE was gougeless, the CCB1E I'm being shipped is supposed to perform better.


----------



## thlnk3r

Just got my hands on a 3000+ CCBHD 0449 Winchestor core.

Going to try and push this to it's limit.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Just got my hands on a 3000+ CCBHD 0449 Winchestor core.

Going to try and push this to it's limit.










Looking forward to it man! Same with the soon to be Opty owner (forgot your name, sorry...I'm sick). Anyways, just checking in before I go yet again, back to bed. Talk to you guys fully once I'm 100% better, lol.


----------



## Poser

CCBBE FTW

sorry... :







:

/foolishness


----------



## timxirish

Haha, well actually Poser, the CCB1E I've got coming to me will perform in the same range as the CCBBE's







.

And pioneer, no problem.. I'm new after all







. Tim is fine though, unless there's a different Tim that's well known here. In that scenario, txi is good too







.


----------



## Poser

*4*1gb DIMM S939 Update ($%&#ing $%#& $%^$ $*$#ing $%&* balls!!!!)

*As you can probably infer.... the experiment chronicled thus far of populating 4 1 gb DIMMS has been anything but a success.... in fact it has been as enjoyable as root canal









To wit:
1. I have successfully booted into Vista x64 w/ 4gb running on a 166 divider and the memclock hovering at 160mhz

2. All attempts to push the memclock up have failed... resulting in complete OS corruption. This includes voltage, discrete timings and memory mapping changes.

3. Numerous attempts to install vista x64 at previously bootable settings with 4 DIMMS populated have resulted in FUBAR.

Proposed Roadmap:

1. Reinstall of vista x64 w/ 2 gigs populated and at complete stock (completed)

2. Image creation of partition via Acronis Home

3. Battery of benches to be performed @ stock:

a. OCCT 1hr custom: completed
b. S&M 1.91 run
C. 8Hrs. prime stability: completed
D. Superpi 1M & 32M runs
E. 3Dmark06
F: Everest CPU and BANDWIDTH
G: SANDRA BANDWIDTH

Images to be posted as well as spread sheet compilation

4. Repeat at current best stable 2gig OC (2.91, DDR 486)

5. Reapeat at 2.9, DDR 320 4 gig

6. Compare results.

7. Seek out all BIOS mods for NF4 Expert that may enhance 4 DIMM (4*1gb) stability... Merlin, BigToe etc....

8. $%&#ing get 4 &%^#ing gigs stable at DDR400 and bench.... or burn dowm my house trying

All suggestions, criticisms and encouragements welcome. This project will take some time as leisure is hard to come by... but at least will help me bide the time untill AMD resurrects a competitive edge in the CPU war


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Looking forward to it man! Same with the soon to be Opty owner (forgot your name, sorry...I'm sick). Anyways, just checking in before I go yet again, back to bed. Talk to you guys fully once I'm 100% better, lol.


Pioneer, I'll be using your older DFI AGP board for the OCing project


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Poser* 
*4*1gb DIMM S939 Update ($%&#ing $%#& $%^$ $*$#ing $%&* balls!!!!)

*As you can probably infer.... the experiment chronicled thus far of populating 4 1 gb DIMMS has been anything but a success.... in fact it has been as enjoyable as root canal









To wit:
1. I have successfully booted into Vista x64 w/ 4gb running on a 166 divider and the memclock hovering at 160mhz

2. All attempts to push the memclock up have failed... resulting in complete OS corruption. This includes voltage, discrete timings and memory mapping changes.

3. Numerous attempts to install vista x64 at previously bootable settings with 4 DIMMS populated have resulted in FUBAR.

Proposed Roadmap:

1. Reinstall of vista x64 w/ 2 gigs populated and at complete stock (completed)

2. Image creation of partition via Acronis Home

3. Battery of benches to be performed @ stock:

a. OCCT 1hr custom: completed
b. S&M 1.91 run
C. 8Hrs. prime stability: completed
D. Superpi 1M & 32M runs
E. 3Dmark06
F: Everest CPU and BANDWIDTH
G: SANDRA BANDWIDTH

Images to be posted as well as spread sheet compilation

4. Repeat at current best stable 2gig OC (2.91, DDR 486)

5. Reapeat at 2.9, DDR 320 4 gig

6. Compare results.

7. Seek out all BIOS mods for NF4 Expert that may enhance 4 DIMM (4*1gb) stability... Merlin, BigToe etc....

8. $%&#ing get 4 &%^#ing gigs stable at DDR400 and bench.... or burn dowm my house trying

All suggestions, criticisms and encouragements welcome. This project will take some time as leisure is hard to come by... but at least will help me bide the time untill AMD resurrects a competitive edge in the CPU war


I, for one, await this OCing investigation with much eagerness.

I applaud your dedication and thoroughness, Poser.


----------



## Poser

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I, for one, await this OCing investigation with much eagerness.

I applaud your *dedication* and *thoroughness*, Poser.









or lunacy


----------



## thlnk3r

Poser, love the battery of benches


----------



## David_1337

Athlon 64 3500 Venice 939, my first computer.
She made it to 2.75 ghz, i have a screenie, but no validation since i didn't know how to do that back then, and im sure my sister would kill me if i OC her new/my old computer again. xD


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Welcome to the club, David_1337!

Love the sig, by the way.


----------



## pioneerisloud

By the way guys...I think I'm going to forget my plans on my benching for higher FSB and RAM. It seems my Windows Installation doesn't like my RAM being that freakin high....I have no sound now and it doesn't shut down.


----------



## Poser

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


By the way guys...I think I'm going to forget my plans on my benching for higher FSB and RAM. It seems my Windows Installation doesn't like my RAM being that freakin high....I have no sound now and it doesn't shut down.


welcome to my last 10 days


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Poser* 
welcome to my last 10 days









Yeah what really sucks is that I had my computer all finished installed. All my games were installed and everything. And now I have to format and start ALL OVER again! And I also have SP1!!!!! Which I probably won't get again...I don't know, lol. I hope I get it again...that's major e-peen right there







...especially matched with my Opteron. GRRRRRRRR STUPID WINBLOWS AND RAM PROBLEMS!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *timxirish* 
Haha, well actually Poser, the CCB1E I've got coming to me will perform in the same range as the CCBBE's







.

And pioneer, no problem.. I'm new after all







. *Tim is fine though, unless there's a different Tim that's well known here.* In that scenario, txi is good too







.

I know this is a little old to be bringing back up....but if you're referring to TIM as Thermal Interface Material....you might want to check out Shin Etsu if you haven't already. It dropped 10*c off my load temps as compared to AS5. Granted I didn't do an EXACT scientific measurement....but I believe they were both applied the same way, lol. Others report anywhere between 3-5*C difference and up to 15 off load temps.


----------



## Poser

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Yeah what really sucks is that I had my computer all finished installed. All my games were installed and everything. And now I have to format and start ALL OVER again! And I also have SP1!!!!! Which I probably won't get again...I don't know, lol. I hope I get it again...that's major e-peen right there







...especially matched with my Opteron. GRRRRRRRR STUPID WINBLOWS AND RAM PROBLEMS!

I was in the same boat... brother, and unfortunately its name is the titanic









I just finished my clean install of all my apps/game/media late last night. I then re-installed SP1 (using the reg hack).

But before I installed SP1, I imaged my OS partition....cuz no way in hell am I re-installing my OS every 2 days (I might get a dedicated HDD just for OCing..., something cheap and small).

good luck


----------



## shortfuse

im shortfuse and im a sckt 939 opteron addict.. oops wrong meeting lol


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shortfuse* 
im shortfuse and im a sckt 939 opteron addict.. oops wrong meeting lol

Wrong meeting???? Brother, you're in the RIGHT meeting! Welcome! You just missed the start of it, as it started at 9:39pm. However I don't know what time it is for you....but its 9:50 here. Anyways, you're in the right spot...just a little bit too late







. How does that single core Opty treat you?


----------



## DigitalSonata

I'm still rockin' the 939, 3200+ aw yeah. Add me to the list!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Shortfuse and DigitalSonata:

Looks like txtmstrjoe (the thread leader) is out of the building at the moment, lol. So since I'm the head cheerleader (that's what my title says ???).....I'll take over. I can't add you to the list, only txtmstrjoe can. But what he'll need to see is a CPUz validation link, or a screenshot that proves you're bumping 939! If you can provide either or, he'll update the list once he gets back online. And welcome to the club...enjoy your stay!


----------



## sgtdisturbed47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
These S939s really do teach you a lot of techniques that you can still use today, don't they? And I agree with you completely: They're still so much fun to overclock and can still perform well enough even compared to all but the very best (quad-cores) out there.

If you still have a CPU-Z validation link or screenshot somewhere, we'll add you to our roster; after all, it's clear that you have a very deep appreciation for Socket 939, and that's what this club is all about.









(If you don't have a CPU-Z validation anymore, well... I'll talk to thlnk3r and pioneerisloud and see if we can add a new "category" to our roster: S939 Nostalgic Members.)

Thanks for dropping by, sgtdisturbed47!







We are honored by your presence.

I don't, but maybe I can find one of my old posts on a different forum from back then.


----------



## iandroo888

random question..

what would you guys expect a CCBBE 0617FPMW Opteron 165 would do on my sig rig? Think it would reach 3GHz?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
random question..

what would you guys expect a CCBBE 0617FPMW Opteron 165 would do on my sig rig? Think it would reach 3GHz?

CCBBE, be prepared to give it some volts...but it should reach 3.0. If not, I'd say 2.9 should be fairly easy.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I know this is a little old to be bringing back up....but if you're referring to TIM as Thermal Interface Material....you might want to check out Shin Etsu if you haven't already. It dropped 10*c off my load temps as compared to AS5. Granted I didn't do an EXACT scientific measurement....but I believe they were both applied the same way, lol. Others report anywhere between 3-5*C difference and up to 15 off load temps.

Um, pioneer, he was referring to himself (as in, his name is Tim)...









Or did I just get suckered into making this reply?









And thanks, too, for reminding our newest prospects shortfuse and DigitalSonata of our very easy requirements for formal membership.

Oh yeah, to you and Poser (and whomever is testing): It's always a great idea to have an image of your OS install, especially when testing settings. Far less hassle than a complete, ground-up reinstall.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Um, pioneer, he was referring to himself (as in, his name is Tim)...









Or did I just get suckered into making this reply?









And thanks, too, for reminding our newest prospects shortfuse and DigitalSonata of our very easy requirements for formal membership.

*Oh yeah, to you and Poser (and whomever is testing): It's always a great idea to have an image of your OS install, especially when testing settings. Far less hassle than a complete, ground-up reinstall.*









You tell me that NOW!!!??? Lol, after spending a week non stop installing, then screwing up my install? Oh well...you live and learn, then you get luvs.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
CCBBE, be prepared to give it some volts...but it should reach 3.0. If not, I'd say 2.9 should be fairly easy.

if its anything around 1.45 - 1.5. i should still be fine with my cooling. considering optys run cooler so should be fine







im just hoping to pass you! hahahahahah lol


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
You tell me that NOW!!!??? Lol, after spending a week non stop installing, then screwing up my install? Oh well...you live and learn, then you get luvs.

I thought you knew all that, man!

And yes, we do love you. Especially thlnk3r.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
if its anything around 1.45 - 1.5. i should still be fine with my cooling. considering *optys run cooler* so should be fine







im just hoping to pass you! hahahahahah lol

That's a bit of a myth in practice, actually. Opterons and Athlons with identical specs are, in fact, exactly alike; their thermal performance, therefore, would likewise be similar to each other.

In the coming weeks (after I get together with thlnk3r, because he's the ace with the mad camera skillz), we'll be sharing a collaborative write-up that might illustrate the point better.









By the way: sgtdisturbed47, you ARE a member of our august group.









Just thought you might like to know.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
You tell me that NOW!!!??? Lol, after spending a week non stop installing, then screwing up my install? *Oh well...you live and learn, then you get luvs.*


Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I thought you knew all that, man!

*And yes, we do love you. Especially thlnk3r.*


Wow, that's two failed jokes in one night! My jokes aren't going so well I guess, lol. Anyways....I don't know, nor do I wanna know how much thlnk3r loves me.....that idea is kinda







. However just so long as its hetero friendly cool dude kinda love, then







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Wow, that's two failed jokes in one night! My jokes aren't going so well I guess, lol. Anyways....I don't know, nor do I wanna know how much thlnk3r loves me.....that idea is kinda







. However just so long as its hetero friendly cool dude kinda love, then







.

Dude, we've been loving you since, um, the days of the old other club house that got a new landlord, man.









Failed jokes? Nah. Just a tough crowd.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Anyways....I don't know, nor do I wanna know how much thlnk3r loves me.....that idea is kinda







. However just so long as its hetero friendly cool dude kinda love, then







.

ROFL

Pioneer, now I know how you feel about thet nForce3 DFI board. I couldn't get it to POST at 320HTT and for some odd reason the board won't POST unless you have a optical drive plugged in. Other then that it's a solid board. The Winchester 3000+ I was playing with was a very poor OCer. I had to run 1.5volts just for 2520mhz and even at that it wasn't 5 seconds stable in Orthos. Oh wellz...the fun of overclocking


----------



## Blitz6804

I will be looking to join as soon as Gigabyte returns my MoBo. When last I had her, my computer (X2 4400+, LCBIE stepping) was running at 2750 MHz with the RAM running at 197 MHz. I found the source of my instability was that I was running the HT at 1000 MHz when the motherboard only supports 800 MHz. My goal is to get it to run as fast as possible with stock voltage. Once I get my Motherboard returned, I will run an Orthos and then validate it.

Questions: Why would you want to take off the chip's heat spreader? Also, what does it mean when you say "Lap the HSF"?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I will be looking to join as soon as Gigabyte returns my MoBo. When last I had her, my computer (X2 4400+, LCBIE stepping) was running at 2750 MHz with the RAM running at 197 MHz.

Blitz, if you don't mind me asking, what happened to your GA board(I guess I could read your thread lol)? I have two of those same exact boards (SC-939) and I love them. Solid performers!

By the way, we'll add you to the roster as soon as you post up your CPU-Z validation screanshots


----------



## Blitz6804

The BIOS was out of date. In the process of flashing it with @BIOS (Windows software) it failed. I restored and told it was successful. Upon reboot, I no longer have a BIOS installed.

I am actually looking to finagle an Asus A8N-SLI Deluxe nForce4 and a pair of MSI NX8800GTS 320M OC GeForce 8800GTS 320MB out of my parents. (Approx $550 new) I would say that I am tired of the disappointing performance of AGP. My LAPTOP can outperform my desktop, and that is just sad.

EDIT: I have a screen shot of my overclock before I doubled down on the RAM. It was a very modest overclock and what I pulled off before asking for any advice:








*

EDIT-AGAIN: Which works better? SpeedFan or CoreTemp? I am noticing a difference of 16Âº C between the two of them on my laptop.

EDIT-THE-THIRD: To any reading this in the archives: the CPU at the time was clocked to 2400 MHz. I updated the picture on the server and it changed to as you see it above.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
The BIOS was out of date. In the process of flashing it with @BIOS (Windows software) it failed. I restored and told it was successful. Upon reboot, I no longer have a BIOS installed.

I am actually looking to finagle an Asus A8N-SLI Deluxe nForce4 and a pair of MSI NX8800GTS 320M OC GeForce 8800GTS 320MB out of my parents. (Approx $550 new) I would say that I am tired of the disappointing performance of AGP. My LAPTOP can outperform my desktop, and that is just sad.

EDIT: I have a screen shot of my overclock before I doubled down on the RAM. It was a very modest overclock and what I pulled off before asking for any advice:










Blitz, the only thing with the A8N-SLI Deluxe is that it's 8x 8x SLI and not the 16x 16x like the A8N32-SLI, but the performance increase will destroy your AGP setup. I'd go with a single 8800GT. The power requirements and heat dissipation in my opinion is not worth it.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

While true, the A8N32 isn't in stock with the store I am looking at. I really want SLI, I would think that a pair of 8x, 8800 GTSs should outperform a sole 8800 GT no?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I would think that a pair of 8x, 8800 GTSs should outperform a sole 8800 GT no?

Blitz, yes it does but I was referring to the power requirements and temperature increases with two video cards. You may have to end up purchasing a new PSU.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
ROFL

Pioneer, now I know how you feel about thet nForce3 DFI board. I couldn't get it to POST at 320HTT and for some odd reason the board won't POST unless you have a optical drive plugged in. Other then that it's a solid board. The Winchester 3000+ I was playing with was a very poor OCer. I had to run 1.5volts just for 2520mhz and even at that it wasn't 5 seconds stable in Orthos. Oh wellz...the fun of overclocking









Wait a second, so you're actually having good luck with that board? That's good news. I'm glad it went to a home that can appreciate it for what its worth...as I couldn't get it to do anything, lol. Then again...I'm not accustomed to DFI BIOS's. I'm very glad that you've got that board doing well. I was worried that you'd attempt an overclock, have bad luck like I did, then hate me for it, lol. Although I did tell you ahead of time that I couldn't get it to do anything, lol.

The no POSTING without an optical drive....now that's odd. I always had an optical drive connected, but still. And you could actually get it to run 1.5v??? Jeeezz!!! I couldn't pass 1.35v with that board? Guess you've pwned me, lol.


----------



## Poser

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 

*Questions: Why would you want to take off the chip's heat spreader? Also, what does it mean when you say "Lap the HSF"?*

I personally think that removing the IHS, when done correctly (see my sig), can boost an OC by 100-250mhyz by realizing a nice reduction on temps (for both of 939 chips I saw a ~5*C at idle and ~9*C at load reduction), thus allowing safer vCore increases (especially on air cooling).

It is a fairly modest procedure, that mostly requires patience and a nice set of cajones









As for "lapping" your Heat Sink, it refers to the procedure of using varying grades of abrassive (usually sandpaper - starting coarse and running through ultra-fine) to reduce surface irregularites on the finish of your heat sink. You ideally are trying to increase the effective surface area contact between the heat sink and your IHS or naked chip.

If you are interested, here is a guide I made some time back

also check out here for a great kit to get your started... Dave aka insulglass is great to deal with!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
The no POSTING without an optical drive....now that's odd. I always had an optical drive connected, but still. And you could actually get it to run 1.5v??? Jeeezz!!! I couldn't pass 1.35v with that board? Guess you've pwned me, lol.

Pioneer, I think I got lucky


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well I'm very glad to hear that its working well for you. You know damn good and well that MSI is treating us well







.

EDIT: BTW, thlnk3r:
Looks like that MSI is going to have a new CPU installed...my very own Opty165 out of my sig rig. Getting a 170 for mine I'm hoping.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Well I'm very glad to hear that its working well for you. You know damn good and well that MSI is treating us well







.

EDIT: BTW, thlnk3r:
Looks like that MSI is going to have a new CPU installed...my very own Opty165 out of my sig rig. Getting a 170 for mine I'm hoping.


Pioneer, I'm jealous of that motherboard









What was that max HTT again?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pioneer, I'm jealous of that motherboard









What was that max HTT again?


Rofl...I'M JEALOUS OF IT! That freakin MSI board booted into Windows at 380 HTT (FSB).


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Rofl...I'M JEALOUS OF IT! That freakin MSI board booted into Windows at 380 HTT (FSB).


Pioneer, now I'm really jealous.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pioneer, now I'm really jealous.


I know...same here. Its not my board, its my fiance's, lol. I tried to trade her with mine before I even started it up...she said nope. We gave up her original board for this one....and she didn't want sloppy seconds by taking my board. So she insisted on taking the MSI. I'm allowed to physically install it (although she's more than capable...I'm just picky about wiring), and overclock it (again, she can herself, but still). That's it. After that's over with, she takes full control over it....for me to never see it again







....well I can see it as that station is directly behind me, but still. Once I switch processors out (put my Opty 165 in there)....we'll see just how well that board compares to my ASUS. It might just take that 165 to a higher stable overclock perhaps?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


It might just take that 165 to a higher stable overclock perhaps?


Pioneer, thats possible...we'll just have to see how it performs. You could always swap out the boards when your GF is not around. Would she really notice?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pioneer, thats possible...we'll just have to see how it performs. You could always swap out the boards when your GF is not around. Would she really notice?










Lol, yes she'd notice. She knows her hardware quite well thanks to me (stupid me!!!). Really sucks. I really should try to convince her to start posting here at OCN again....and force her to join this 939 club, lol. She's already a member here at OCN...she just never posts because she thinks she's the only girl. And nobody gives her reps because she's a girl (or so she says).


----------



## pioneerisloud

BOOBTERON!

Sorry, hasn't been said for a while







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


BOOBTERON!

Sorry, hasn't been said for a while







.


Holy flashbacks, Batman!


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Lol, yes she'd notice. She knows her hardware quite well thanks to me (stupid me!!!). Really sucks. I really should try to convince her to start posting here at OCN again....and force her to join this 939 club, lol. She's already a member here at OCN...she just never posts because she thinks she's the only girl. And nobody gives her reps because she's a girl (or so she says).

REP +++ FOR PIONEERS GIRLFRIEND


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Welcome to blitz6804!

And I agree with boonie2: Don't you lose your fiancee, pioneer! She's a definite keeper.









(I'm actually inclined to think she's more of an OCNer than you are...







)










j/k, pioneer!


----------



## bandook916

Where can I buy a X2 939 CPU for they price they were used to be??


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bandook916*


Where can I buy a X2 939 CPU for they price they were used to be??


Brand new retail? These are getting really hard to find these days, unfortunately.

The Egg has a few OEM X2s sometimes, but I haven't checked lately.

Are you looking for a particular model? If I find any, I'll post links here.


----------



## bandook916

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Brand new retail? These are getting really hard to find these days, unfortunately.

The Egg has a few OEM X2s sometimes, but I haven't checked lately.

Are you looking for a particular model? If I find any, I'll post links here.


New/Used/Oem doesnt matter, As long as socket 939 perferbaly a athy Dual-Core must. ANY model. THanks.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bandook916*


New/Used/Oem doesnt matter, As long as socket 939 perferbaly a athy Dual-Core must. ANY model. THanks.


If you happen to have a single core 939 processor...I might be willing to trade you for my Lapped Manny if you're interested. One catch though, the single core processor CANNOT be naked. Will have a stock cooler mounted on it







.


----------



## Blitz6804

I am trying to get the fundage together to get an AM2 system. If I succeed, I will be transforming my 939 into a Linux Box and will be willing to downgrade my CPU back to my Sandy so I could send my Toledo if the price is right.

And question: What is a suicide? Is that any system that will post but not clear Orthos?

POST-EDIT: Nope, cannot get the AM2. Sometimes, you just gotta hate parents. You get a job, you get money, and they tell you you aren't allowed to spend it.


----------



## Blitz6804

Woot... finally up to date on the archives!

Again I ask, since I think it was missed earlier, what is the difference between CoreTemp and SpeedFan? I show a 16Âº C difference between the two on my laptop, how do I know which is more accurate?


----------



## Poser

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Woot... finally up to date on the archives!

Again I ask, since I think it was missed earlier, what is the difference between CoreTemp and SpeedFan? I show a 16Âº C difference between the two on my laptop, how do I know which is more accurate?


1. Suicides are the highest bootable OC you can achieve and run light benches...without nuking your chip









For me, I got my opty to boot @ 3.2... but I would freeze trying to run superpi 32m, and god forbid I try to run 3dmark...my house would burn down

edit: just noticed it was your lappy.... check the specs online and see if they suggest monitoring software

2. I am going to catch a lot of flack for this.... but I have never had any love for either program (speedfan or coretemp). Coretemp acts wonky on my 64bit install and speeedfan I just don't like.

The reason you may be seeing extreme differences is due to inconsistencies in the softwares ability to accurately read the sensors on die and on your mobo.

My personal choice is to use everest... and compare with NVmonitor and/or mobo monitor.

You can find out via your tech specs on your mobo what kind of sensor chips are used and then google the best monitoring software for you specific sensor (i.e. ite chips and smartguardian)


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Woot... finally up to date on the archives!

Again I ask, since I think it was missed earlier, what is the difference between CoreTemp and SpeedFan? I show a 16Âº C difference between the two on my laptop, how do I know which is more accurate?


I refuse to use Speedfan for its inaccuracies. I'd trust CoreTemp over Speedfan anyday. However you might wanna check out Everest. I love Everest and its never given me an inaccurate reading.


----------



## Blitz6804

It could be because my laptop is running a C2D, and we all know Socket P can't compete with some better technologies...

680 minutes to go until that magic moment...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
It could be because my laptop is running a C2D, and we all know Socket P can't compete with some better technologies...

680 minutes to go until that magic moment...

Lol, I have no clue what you're talking about. What magic moment?


----------



## TestECull

3800+ Venice reporting in!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
3800+ Venice reporting in!









Just provide a CPUz validation link or screenshot and txtmstrjoe will add you to the roster once he's online! Welcome! And please ignore the random boobteron posts by yours truly......Don't know WHERE I coulda picked that up at







!


----------



## Blitz6804

I posted at 22:19 EST. Add to that 680 minutes, and you have 9:39 EST.

Seems my Math Minor is causing confusion again.

Oh, and to handle the AM/PM debate: 9:39 AM. 9:39 PM is also 21:39. 9:39 AM is also 9:39, and so, is 9:39 two different ways. Now, all I need to do is find another 937 ways to write that...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I posted at 22:19 EST. Add to that 680 minutes, and you have 9:39 EST.

Seems my Math Minor is causing confusion again.

Oh, and to handle the AM/PM debate: 9:39 AM. 9:39 PM is also 21:39. 9:39 AM is also 9:39, and so, is 9:39 two different ways. Now, all I need to do is find another 937 ways to write that...

ROFL...now it makes sense! Kinda? I'm not so good at math....stupid ADHD!


----------



## Blitz6804

Oh, and regards 4 GB of RAM...

I also have been unsuccessful in making 4 x 1 GB post at DDR 400. I have a pair of Corsair XMS 400 and a pair of Corsair XMS 400 Pro. They are almost the identical RAM DIMMs, the only difference is that one has LEDs on the heat spreader.

Anyway, either single pair can post at 434 MHz, and I am sure they can post at higher speeds, I just have not tried yet.

With both pairs in my GA-K8NSC-939, the RAM defaults to 333 MHz. If I get it up to 393 MHz, windows will both boot and run fine as well as clearing OCCT, but Orthos will not stay running. I had them running at 377 MHz without incident though.

Given that I am constantly multitasking, I think I will keep the 4 GB (3.5 GB in XPsp2) at 377 MHz rather than the 2 GB at 434 MHz. When I "upgrade" to Vista, I think I will only have 3.25 GB of RAM available (still a x86 OS) but I am not worried about that. My laptop is running 4 GB (shows as 3 GB) and is running well enough. I also have a 4 GB thumb drive for both to utilize ReadyBoost, but that only helps in loading programs, not in their actual running.


----------



## froggy1986

pioneer says I HAVE TO POST in here... im a bit of a nOOb I will admit...but hey, wasnt e1 when they started. He said to let ya'll know that Im the owner of the manny he previously gave proof for, and to ask if one of ya'll could please switch it to my name... so theres my post...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *froggy1986* 
pioneer says I HAVE TO POST in here... im a bit of a nOOb I will admit...but hey, wasnt e1 when they started. He said to let ya'll know that Im the owner of the manny he previously gave proof for, and to ask if one of ya'll could please switch it to my name... so theres my post...

Well thank you for taking my advice considering you sit directly behind me when we're on the interwebz. Yes, txtmstrjoe, *SHE* has my official permission to steal the Manny @ 2.60GHz OC as it is *HER* machine. She's the one that put together this computer, and she attempted to overclock it at first. I just kind of helped fine tune it so it was stable







.

Welcome to the 939 Club! I am the official cheerleader here as that's what txtmstrjoe put me as







. Once he's online he'll update the member's list with your CPU. And guys....guess what, Froggy is a *GIRL*, get used to it, lol. I know, I know....get your cootie shots!!!! Actually I think my cootie shot might be almost due again







? Guess I'll have to check at the GirlsGiveCooties doctor's office tomorrow







. Don't worry....the cootie shot is perfectly painless and it helps when you're sharing the interwebz with a *GIRL*







. Ok, I'm done being hilariously funny (I know, I failed again!). Have fun overclocking guys and *girls*. I think I'm off to bed.















Sorry, but guess what???? There's now a girl that has a better overclock than some guys!!!!!
















Ok, I'm done. Nite everyone, lol.


----------



## Poser

If you want some data and you know it...clock your rigs
If you want some data and you know it...clock your rigs
If you want some data and you know it and ya really want to show it...
If you want some data and you know it clock your rigs

Yup you guessed it alright, I bring you pictures... pictures that tell the story of a boy and his dreams. The dream of four gigs and a 939 spot in OC nirvana.

Here is the first installment in my quest to run 4 gigs in a 939 opty system with vista ulti x64 @ DDR400 or greater.

The first in the series is the results of a fresh install @ stock with RAM underclocked. When you look at the Sandra results...it becomes kind of evident just how far AMD has fallen in the performance ranks. But fear not, I would shave my stones and beat them silly before I succumbed and bought a (eeeewwww.....) conroe. Or wolfdale... or Penryn... but please forgive me, that nehalem looks Sex-E.

Anyway some photos to speak volumes:










*An all in one photo... to confirm that these are actually all of the same rig, though I cant see why anyone would want to fake results like this....but I do like fake ninjas for the record

















*








*This is just to keep Lord Vader happy... I mean you saw how he chumped the admiral.... (you got served.... b#*@^!)









*

*Honestly.... If you gave me a scratch-pad, an abacus and a six pack... I feel certain I could have knocked it our faster... no, really


















This is where things get kind of depressing... cause Sandra is a snarky little tart and she like to compare chips that arent even in the same class. Thanks you hussy










Latencies don't look half bad.... right until you notice that all the other results are for DDR2 modules... sweeeeet, now for an encore... I punch myself in the face.










On the plus side... its nice to see the native quad phenom kicking some ass... but then of course, there is a mobile chipset that is equally pawning my rig. Mobile ownage... well thats just....forget it, not worth saying.










Notice the 3dmarks... I feel confident that my rig will pawn most graphing calculators, casio keyboards and the occasional fisher price "my first PC"...also most definitely an etch-a-sketch.

All kidding aside though... the 939, though an older platform, that at stock gets crowned... is one of the better scaling architectures period. I hope to show that with a significant overclock (and hopefully 4gig ram) that this aging system can still mix it up with the new kids on the block (noooo not the tools from the early nineties...but the newest Intel and AMD platforms)

I hope to put all of the pertinent information (discrete timings, score and results) in a spreadsheet for easy comparison. And cause I am anal retentive.

On the mega-plus side, I have been in dialogue with a bunch of guys over at XS who have 939 platforms running 4 gigs at DDR480 and greater. Hopefully they can point me in the right direction.... or at least photochop a great phony success picture.
*


----------



## pioneerisloud

Dude you've got some MAJOR tweaking to do! I score better than that in 3DMark06 with a single 8600GTS 256MB. I'm not even kidding......I really do score better, I believe it was 6300 something. I can prove it too, lol. My guess would be either processor overclock isn't as high, or you haven't overclocked your GPU yet?


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *froggy1986* 
pioneer says I HAVE TO POST in here... im a bit of a nOOb I will admit...but hey, wasnt e1 when they started. He said to let ya'll know that Im the owner of the manny he previously gave proof for, and to ask if one of ya'll could please switch it to my name... so theres my post...

Welcome froggy , if i could REP ya i would but i think the "powers that be" would SPANK me if i just thru 1 at ya out of the blue


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
Welcome froggy , if i could REP ya i would but i think the "powers that be" would SPANK me if i just thru 1 at ya out of the blue
















well thanks for the thought... its nice to see at least the thought is there from someone


----------



## pioneerisloud

Uh oh...THE BIG DOG IS IN THE HOUSE!

EDIT: Look at who's currently viewing the thread







.

EDIT2: Don't banhammer me oh merciful txtmstrjoe, the 939 king







I'm sweet and innocent!







. BTW, I've found the smiley options, so be prepared to see them more in my posts cuz I'm







like that.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Dude you've got some MAJOR tweaking to do! I score better than that in 3DMark06 with a single 8600GTS 256MB. I'm not even kidding......I really do score better, I believe it was 6300 something. I can prove it too, lol. My guess would be either processor overclock isn't as high, or you haven't overclocked your GPU yet?

no kidding, I had a better score with an 8600GT stock! I agree,some major tweaking indeed is needed.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Welcome, froggy1986! I've transferred over pioneer's Manchester validation over to you, seeing as how you're the actual runner of the Manny.

Check it out! A bona fide chick dudette as part of our little club! How many OCN clubs can boast having a female OCer as part of their roster?

You know what that means, pioneer: Gotta behave yourself! If you don't, I'll share all your deepest, darkest secrets.

Like how your real first name is actually the same as, um, er, the former boyfriend of a certain imbalanced and unstable celebrity...










And Poser, my man! AWESOME, entertaining contribution there, my friend. Honestly, I've never seen a more engaging read augmenting bench screenies.

I hope thlnk3r and I can match you when we're ready with our upcoming features.









One last thing: froggy, is pioneer REALLY loud?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
hey now, my girl buys me lunch







You go Pioneerisloud!!!

Not to brag, but my girl bought me an 8800GT last Christmas.









Dangit! You guys and girl sure make it hard to get back in bed!

I gots to go to work tomorrow!


----------



## Poser

1. No my GTS is not clocked at the moment... I have returned it to stock, so as to isolate my opty and ram for this experiment/adventure/catastrophe

2. Wait.... Pioneer has a girl, "inconceivable" (just kidding, cheers froggie... welcome to the clubhouse)

3. I have decided to wire electrodes directly to my lateral geniculate nucleus with high throughput SCSI storage devices, because robots legs were not available.

wow....

also quit abusing the smileys, its like martha stewart went ballistic or something


----------



## catalyst

great idea guys! long live s939!!









link to cpuz in sig


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *catalyst*


great idea guys! long live s939!!









link to cpuz in sig










Welcome, catalyst!

Thanks for being here.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *catalyst* 
great idea guys! long live s939!!









link to cpuz in sig









Welcome Catalyst


----------



## Gothic Case

Great results!

Can you please guys tell me about cold bug on these chips?

I know CCBBE, CCB1E are a lot more cold bugged than CCBWE for example...

Hunting that 3.3GHz on my 165 made me learn something...

Here's some testing I done with temperatures, always using 9x multiplier on my CCBBE 0610DPMW

For information consistency, I tried 3 times at each of these temps... hope it helps at least some of you


----------



## pioneerisloud

Great graph man, very helpful. Is that 363 HTT bus stable with the 9x multi?


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
















I'm just doing the same thing you're doing bro!



i dont think his lunch cost anything near wut ur stereo did and if it did...im glad i dont live around there cuz DAYAM thats expensive lunch.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gothic Case*


Great results!

Can you please guys tell me about cold bug on these chips?

I know CCBBE, CCB1E are a lot more cold bugged than CCBWE for example...

Hunting that 3.3GHz on my 165 made me learn something...

Here's some testing I done with temperatures, always using 9x multiplier on my CCBBE 0610DPMW

For information consistency, I tried 3 times at each of these temps... hope it helps at least some of you


Neat-o chart, Gothic Case!

I wish I could tell you more about cold-bugged chips; I don't have any experience with these.







As you say, though, some steppings are more vulnerable to being cold-bugged than others, according to reports.

Also as you've cited, CCBWE seems to be the least-affected by the cold bug phenomenon. If I had an exotic cooling solution, I've got two CCBWEs in my stash that I could just zap with mega voltage and get some experience.

So, based on your chart and data, what conclusions have you found regarding your CCBBE?

Again, mega contribution, and thanks!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Agreed with txtmstrjoe...
I'd like to hear more about how you clocked that puppie with that extreme cooling. What have you gotten stable? What was your highest max OC on a suicide run?


----------



## Blitz6804

First, what is the "cold bug"?

Second, lucky you txtmstrjoe. I am lucky if mine gives me a $25 gift card to Best Buy... to think I will be marrying her some day...

Third, she unfortunately owns only Intel. They are all Dells, so likely could not be overclocked even if she knew how.

Fourth, Froggy: Welcome DUDE! How are you MAN?! (Sorry, your sig told me to. I know you are female, so read the above as "Welcome dudette! How are you madam?")


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
First, what is the "cold bug"?

Second, lucky you txtmstrjoe. I am lucky if mine gives me a $25 gift card to Best Buy... to think I will be marrying her some day...

Third, she unfortunately owns only Intel. They are all Dells, so likely could not be overclocked even if she knew how.

Fourth, Froggy: Welcome DUDE! How are you MAN?! (Sorry, your sig told me to. I know you are female, so read the above as "Welcome dudette! How are you madam?")

"Cold bug" = A term used to describe an electronic/electrical device's inability to operate stably if ambient temperatures are below a nominal value. For the purposes of our discussion here, we'll say that the cold bug characteristics occur at near or even below 0 degrees C. Whatever the actual temperature is for a particular chip's cold bug threshold, it's surely below any "realistic" ambient temperature conditions (i.e., ambients that don't go below 15 degrees Centigrade, which is 59 degrees Fahrenheit).

Come to think of it, that makes me very curious about Gothic Case's cooling equipment.

How about it, Gothic? Care to share pictures, or provide us with a description of your cooling system? I think I speak for all the air coolers here when I say we're all envious of your cooling system's capabilities!


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Fourth, Froggy: Welcome DUDE! How are you MAN?! (Sorry, your sig told me to. I know you are female, so read the above as "Welcome dudette! How are you madam?")










thanks for the welcome i think.... im looking forward to learning a few things that pioneer has failed to teach me.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah... you are not going to learn them from me. Well, I can tell you the name of the proc he uses is an Opteron, not that other thing he calls it lol.


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Yeah... you are not going to learn them from me. Well, I can tell you the name of the proc he uses is an Opteron, not that other thing he calls it lol.


lmao u mean its not the boobteron????







oh man i got a lot more learning to do then i thought.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *froggy1986*


lmao u mean its not the boobteron????







oh man i got a lot more learning to do then i thought.


The Force is strong in you, but you are not a Jedi yet.

Neither is pioneer, actually.

You see, this is how we used to rock in that other clubhouse:

(o)pter(o)n.


----------



## Gothic Case

Sorry I didn't come back earlier... another hard day at work

Well, unfortunatelly I didn't take any pictures of this cooling setup, but it's quite simple... Just a ordinary watercooler, but to get to these temps, I swaped the reservoir and put a plastic tupperware filled with ice cubes... I think it's the most extreme cooling you can get without leaving home and spending a cent! lol I tend to try these ghetto cooling and modding solutions! They're at least fun!

No stability (yet) @ 363MHz HTT, it's just a suicide shot, but I'm still trying... and just remembered there are some things I didn't try yet, like leaving MAL and RP @ AUTO, taking off the IHS AND go for 1.7v!

These should be enough to get that 3.3GHz SuperPi 1M run! More to come this weekend!

BTW just cleaned all my hardware (I swear I took a bear-sized dust piece out off my radiator) and got 24C idle temps @ 2.9GHz stock volts!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Ice cubes!

That's a cool idea!

Nyuk nyuk nyuk nyuk

I think maybe we should all move to Alaska or somewhere like that. Cold bugs be damned!

Of course, maybe we can all construct PCs inside a working freezer/refrigerator...


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gothic Case*


...Just a ordinary watercooler, but to get to these temps, I swaped the reservoir and put a plastic tupperware filled with ice cubes... I think it's the most extreme cooling you can get without leaving home and spending a cent! lol I tend to try these ghetto cooling and modding solutions! They're at least fun!


Great Idea! how did you "mount" your tupperware in...(haha never thought i would be asking a question like that one) how long did you have it running?


----------



## Blitz6804

If it will not damage the tubing, add salt to the reservoir. It will permit the water to get colder than 0Âº C to the tune of 3.72Âº C / molal. At maximum concentration, that is, approximately 350 grams of salt per liter of water, you would experience a drop of 22.8Âº C. Imagine how much of a suicide run that would permit...

I am now working on replacing my Radeon X1950 XGE with an HD 3850. That'll keep my Skt939/AGP running for a while...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Of course, maybe we can all construct PCs inside a working freezer/refrigerator...










Oh no! Not you too! How many times do we have to say it...you cannot use a fridge/freezer to cool your PC







! Although it really is a good idea, that I used to ponder myself







.


----------



## Blitz6804

Best "home brewed" cooling system possible: a window mounted air conditioner ducted into the case...

I'd love to see how high someone can overclock that to...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


If it will not damage the tubing, add salt to the reservoir. It will permit the water to get colder than 0Âº C to the tune of 3.72Âº C / molal. At maximum concentration, that is, approximately 350 grams of salt per liter of water, you would experience a drop of 22.8Âº C. Imagine how much of a suicide run that would permit...

*I am now working on replacing my Radeon X1950 XGE with an HD 3850. That'll keep my Skt939/AGP running for a while...*


May I suggest an alternative upgrade path for you?

How about instead of spending that extreme amount of money on an AGP card that...let's face it...you're GOING to have problems running since you can only get drivers from Sapphire......
Why not upgrade your motherboard to a good PCIe 939 board such as the DFI nf4, eVGA nf4, ASUS A8N, Abit AN8, etc., etc....and just get a nice cheaper PCIe card? That might even still save you money and get you better performance. Just a thought.


----------



## Blitz6804

Because my parents tell me what I am and am not permitted to spend my money on. A video card is a maybe. A new motherboard is a no. Flat out, no.

Besides, the card is only $210 shipped, I almost paid that to order my new HDDs. I am going to replace my 8 MB cache 150 GB RAID 0 with a 16 MB cache 500 GB RAID 0. Yes, I know there are larger-cached drives available, but 16 MB is the largest available for SATA-150.


----------



## Iconoclast

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Because my parents tell me what I am and am not permitted to spend my money on. A video card is a maybe. A new motherboard is a no. Flat out, no.

Besides, the card is only $210 shipped, I almost paid that to order my new HDDs. I am going to replace my 8 MB cache 150 GB RAID 0 with a 16 MB cache 500 GB RAID 0. Yes, I know there are larger-cached drives available, but 16 MB is the largest available for SATA-150.

How old are you? Do it anyway.

Edit: That motherboard is like 5 years old, I used to own it before I got this one last year. AGP is teh suck.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Because my parents tell me what I am and am not permitted to spend my money on. A video card is a maybe. A new motherboard is a no. Flat out, no.

Besides, the card is only $210 shipped, I almost paid that to order my new HDDs. I am going to replace my 8 MB cache 150 GB RAID 0 with a 16 MB cache 500 GB RAID 0. Yes, I know there are larger-cached drives available, but 16 MB is the largest available for SATA-150.

Why are you limiting yourself to a SATA-150 drive? If that's all your SATA controller handles....you can still use a SATA-300 drive, it just won't run at full speed, which isn't really a big deal because it won't on a SATAII port anyway.


----------



## Blitz6804

Because my motherboard only has a pair of SATA-150 ports. As to my age, you can see from my profile I am 22. I am presently living in an apartment and attending law school, both of which are being paid for by the aforementioned parents. Granted, it is in the form of a loan I will need to pay back when I graduate, but I would not be able to afford school if I piss them off enough for them to stop paying.

Oh well, temporary unhappiness now for joyous jubilations later. I intend to order a $14,000 or so PC upon gaining my first "real" job... >=Ãž


----------



## Iconoclast

Makes sense. But don't gimp yourself in the future by buying a Sata-150 drive. Get a 300 drive, they are still compatible with 150 ports and you won't have to upgrade it in the future.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Iconoclast* 
Makes sense. But don't gimp yourself in the future by buying a Sata-150 drive. Get a 300 drive, they are still compatible with 150 ports and you won't have to upgrade it in the future.

Exactly what I said, lol. So of course







I agree







.


----------



## Blitz6804

I already placed the Newegg order. I just hit the cancel, but it was already on step 3, so it may end up not being canceled. Figures, the one time you wish they were slow...

POST-EDIT: It now shows as "Void" even though I've yet to receive a new email.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I already placed the Newegg order. I just hit the cancel, but it was already on step 3, so it may end up not being canceled. Figures, the one time you wish they were slow...

I thought you could cancel up till step 4? You might be okay, it might've canceled. And I'm still going to stand very strong against the 3850 AGP card. You're going to have nothing but driver problems with that thing. I wish it was different, but unfortunately past the X1900/7900 cards in AGP....the driver support just isn't there.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

blitz6804, here's a personal philosophy to which I adhere: Do things your own way for you own reasons.







That's one of the beauties of this hobby. Our rigs are all an extension of ourselves, and they all have a _raison d'etre_ unique to themselves.

Everyone would like to have all the latest kit, but unless you have really deep pockets and an insatiable thirst to dip into it and spend, well, sometimes we have to just rock on with what we've got. Besides, if your needs are still being satisfied by what you've got, what's wrong with that, right?

So kudos to you!


----------



## Blitz6804

I am told to install the PCI-E driver when running CCC. It installs fine. The big thing I am looking at is the DirectX 10.1 versus my present 9.3. Further, I have heard stories about the 1950 XGE (specifically) being incompatable with Vista.

I just ordered the HD 3850 AGP and a HITACHI Deskstar 7K1000 HDS721075KLA330. I decided on a single drive instead of RAID 0, for in case my motherboard ever dies again, I will not be in the pickle I am in now, that is, having no access to my data. That, and for $15 less money, I am getting 250 GB more storage space.


----------



## Gothic Case

I'd get the SATA-300... they're almost the same price....

BTW, just found a screenshot of the beautiful twins that are coming back from RMA in march...

I think those were the best DDR-1 ever made...

Only 20 mins of primebecause I was testing it further... but with a bit more of tweaking it was stable t that speed.. can't remember wich timings I changed...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


If it will not damage the tubing, add salt to the reservoir. It will permit the water to get colder than 0Âº C to the tune of 3.72Âº C / molal. At maximum concentration, that is, approximately 350 grams of salt per liter of water, you would experience a drop of 22.8Âº C. Imagine how much of a suicide run that would permit...


Blitz, very cool info dude


----------



## Gothic Case

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, very cool info dude










For that matter I preffer to use RadCool (used in cars)... it'll avoid freezing up to -20c and avoid corrosion too!


----------



## Blitz6804

Finally, my B.S. in Chemistry is useful for something!

Anyway, it has been fun, by my pillow is calling me. What time will it be when I start class? Ironically, it's 9:39!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gothic Case*


For that matter I preffer to use RadCool (used in cars)... it'll avoid freezing up to -20c and avoid corrosion too!


Gothic, I'll just throw my computer in the freezer and hope for the best


----------



## Gothic Case

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Gothic, I'll just throw my computer in the freezer and hope for the best










Now that's what I wanted to hear! lol

I was thinking of doing it some time ago, but scared to death of condensation.. but then I just remembered that our freezers are frost free for a while, right? That should avoid condensation

I'll leave some sheets of paper inside it and check them tomorrow before I get to work... if they're still dry, I'll surelly give this a shot!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gothic Case*


Now that's what I wanted to hear! lol

I was thinking of doing it some time ago, but scared to death of condensation.. but then I just remembered that our freezers are frost free for a while, right? That should avoid condensation

I'll leave some sheets of paper inside it and check them tomorrow before I get to work... if they're still dry, I'll surelly give this a shot!


Gothic, I was just kidding man LOL


----------



## pioneerisloud

Lol, yeah....you'll kill the freezer.


----------



## Gothic Case

If the hardware still lives after doing it, I don't really care that much about the freezer!

Anyway, 10 minutes and the sheets are still dry! lol


----------



## pioneerisloud

Oh NOEZ! Lol. Good luck Gothic. Just remember, there's no vent holes in the freezer to vent that hot air out. You're going to be putting more hot air into that freezer that its going to handle.....blow the freezer's pump, then just start building hot air up. If you do this, don't leave it in there long.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

FYI: I was totally *kidding* about putting a system inside a freezer/refrigerator.









To bandook: Try as I might, it's all but impossible to find S939 X2s or dual-core Opterons now from reputable retail outlets. The next best hope, if you're really desperate to have one, is to go through the For Sale forum or through other sources (eBay, CraigsList, etc.). Or maybe post a "Wanted" thread in the appropriate forum.

Good luck on your search, bandook!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Update, I'm still trying as hard as I can to get my RAM stable past normal DDR400 speeds. They just won't budget past all auto freakin settings! So new strategy time for me! I'm now attempting a 2.8GHz OC (312 x 9) with the attempt of undervolting (for temp reasons), and DDR400 speeds exactly. I'm also hoping to be able to tighten the timings past 3,3,2,7,2T. Stay tuned. Here VERY soon I'll have a stable OC to post here as proof. And hopefully I'll leave it alone....but doubt it. I may be getting a 170 soon.....so my overclock will change completely, lol.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


* I may be getting a 170 soon*.....so my overclock will change completely, lol.


You are?

I just got done saying I haven't found a reputable source for S939 parts.

How dare you contradict me!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


You are?

I just got done saying I haven't found a reputable source for S939 parts.

How dare you contradict me!










Oh really? So are you saying the person I may be getting said 170 from isn't reputable? Hmmm....you're making me rethink my decisions.







.


----------



## GuardianOdin

me thinks I have a cold bugged Chip --->=(<--- I have a vent from my window to the side of the PC case and booted up the other day 13c!!! Videocard on load hits 40c and the Opty MAY hit 50c during Orthos run. I still can't get a stable 3.1Ghz but atleast 3Ghz is rock solid now.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Oh really? So are you saying the person I may be getting said 170 from isn't reputable? Hmmm....you're making me rethink my decisions.







.


I'm not saying anything...


----------



## GuardianOdin

Ladies and Gents I give you OCN's old married couple txtmstrjoe & pioneerisloud


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Ladies and Gents I give you OCN's old married couple txtmstrjoe & pioneerisloud










No wai, dood!

pioneer is taken. Just ask froggy1986!

Besides, I'm hardly OLD, man.

(And to think I just added you to my "Friends" list, Guardian...)


----------



## FireMarshallBill

Got my 3500+ back up and running and folding!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Wow, just wow! Nuff said. FiremarshallBill, great use for that old rig!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Welcome, FireMarshallBill!

By the way, pioneer, I slightly modified your honorary title on our roster on the first page of the thread.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


No wai, dood!

pioneer is taken. Just ask froggy1986!

Besides, I'm hardly OLD, man.

(And to think I just added you to my "Friends" list, Guardian...)



















LOL hahaha...









Quote:



Originally Posted by *FireMarshallBill*


Got my 3500+ back up and running and folding!



get sucker to 2.5Ghz! Should fairly easy with that Venice


----------



## FireMarshallBill

Only has a stock cooler but Ill see if I can't squeeze some MHz out of it


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FireMarshallBill*


Only has a stock cooler but Ill see if I can't squeeze some MHz out of it


Meh, if it catches on fire, at least you'll be well prepared, eh?

















This is what happens when txtmstrjoe is on drugs.

erm, medication.

For a cold.

That might be the early onset of the flu.

I blame YOU, pioneer! Seeing as how you said you just had it!

(Oh wait... GuardianOdin and froggy1986 might get the wrong idea... NVM...)


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Meh, if it catches on fire, at least you'll be well prepared, eh?

















This is what happens when txtmstrjoe is on drugs.

erm, medication.

For a cold.

That might be the early onset of the flu.

I blame YOU, pioneer! Seeing as how you said you just had it!

(Oh wait... GuardianOdin and froggy1986 might get the wrong idea... NVM...)


stopping myself from continues jokes. I revoke my previous statement and add they bicker "like" an old married couple.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *FireMarshallBill*


Only has a stock cooler but Ill see if I can't squeeze some MHz out of it


I was able to get 2.5Ghz on a stock heatsink.You should be ok. You do not have to up the volts either so thats a plus.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Very true, he did say that...don't make me search, my rig=uber slow ATM cuz of stressing.

I think Guardian is the only OCNer who's been sigged by TWO other OCNers with the same quote.

Of course, pioneer, I beat you to the draw.







I guess your 3.27GHz isn't as fast as my 2.8GHz...









Oh well, kids, time to hit the hay. The drugs might wear off soon, which means I'll have a miserable time trying to catch the sleepy train.

Have fun, peeps!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I think Guardian is the only OCNer who's been sigged by TWO other OCNers with the same quote.

Of course, pioneer, I beat you to the draw.







I guess your 3.27GHz isn't as fast as my 2.8GHz...









Oh well, kids, time to hit the hay. The drugs might wear off soon, which means I'll have a miserable time trying to catch the sleepy train.

Have fun, peeps!









Well see I'm only at 2.8GHz right now as well, and I'm stress testing. So that must be the explanation. Hope you get over whatever you're coming down with







. Take some Nighquill (don't know the spelling off hand, lol)







. It'll knock you the **** out!


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


FYI: I was totally *kidding* about putting a system inside a freezer/refrigerator.









To bandook: Try as I might, it's all but impossible to find S939 X2s or dual-core Opterons now from reputable retail outlets. The next best hope, if you're really desperate to have one, is to go through the For Sale forum or through other sources (eBay, CraigsList, etc.). Or maybe post a "Wanted" thread in the appropriate forum.

Good luck on your search, bandook!


Excuse me a minute, Newegg has a Opty 180 Denmark. I hope this helps.

EDIT: If you wish to save a little money, they also have a 175. They are out of stock on the 185.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Excuse me a minute, Newegg has a Opty 180 Denmark. I hope this helps.

EDIT: If you wish to save a little money, they also have a 175. They are out of stock on the 185.

Good save, blitz.

I have to sheepishly admit that I overlooked the Egg during this last round of searches.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Yeah but who wants to go with a 170 or a 180 though?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Yeah but who wants to go with a 170 or a 180 though?

Maybe someone with no other alternative, but still wants a dual-core S939 chip.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *froggy1986*


well now I know who to yell at if he pops up prego


LOL WOW


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *froggy1986*


well now I know who to yell at if he pops up prego


Yumping Yiminy, I just now got this!

Drug use FTL...


----------



## pioneerisloud

ROFL

Update on my overclock/undervolt progress!!
Well I reached 2.8GHz with my RAM @ 200MHz 2,3,2,6,1T with only running 1.25v through my CPU (1.26v under load). I'm now attempting 2.92GHz with the same (RAM @ 209MHz). My 2.8GHz run was stable with Orthos blended for 10 hours. Figured that was enough time for stability before I upped the clocks again







. I gave up on having high speed RAM, instead I'm shooting for the tightest timings I can get...which these are it. I'm unsure if this is my best solution, but its all I can come up with. 3.0GHz @ 1.375v was just too much heat (67*C under load)....so I had to undervolt.

EDIT: Ok, so 2.92GHz was too much on those low of volts...back down to 2.8GHz and stressing for proof. If anybody else has any suggestions on someway to better this OC, please let me know.

312 x 9 = 2.80GHz (1.25v)
200MHz 2,3,2,6,1T RAM (2.90v)
3x HT Link
NB only overvolted
Load temps of 55-57ish *C.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


3.0GHz @ 1.375v was just too much heat (67*C under load)....so I had to undervolt.


Pioneer, isn't it funny how heat is always the negative factor with everything. My vcore is at 1.34volts and I am still hitting 55C - 60C during Orthos blends


----------



## pioneerisloud

Yeah I hate that stupid thing called heat. I really wish I had the money to go water! Then I'd be happy at 3.0! Anyways, any suggestions to my 2.8Ghz OC I listed above, or something else I should shoot for perhaps, it'd be much appreciated. I can pretty much hit anything from stock to 3.0GHz stable. Its just a matter of the RAM settings which seem to be ok up to 233MHz.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Well, if the heat's bothering your chips, you can always strip 'em naked.

Right?

pioneer, I know that you, for one, love seeing a topless CPU.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


ROFL

Update on my overclock/undervolt progress!!
Well I reached 2.8GHz with my RAM @ 200MHz 2,3,2,6,1T with only running 1.25v through my CPU (1.26v under load). I'm now attempting 2.92GHz with the same (RAM @ 209MHz). My 2.8GHz run was stable with Orthos blended for 10 hours. Figured that was enough time for stability before I upped the clocks again







. I gave up on having high speed RAM, instead I'm shooting for the tightest timings I can get...which these are it. I'm unsure if this is my best solution, but its all I can come up with. 3.0GHz @ 1.375v was just too much heat (67*C under load)....so I had to undervolt.

EDIT: Ok, so 2.92GHz was too much on those low of volts...back down to 2.8GHz and stressing for proof. If anybody else has any suggestions on someway to better this OC, please let me know.

312 x 9 = 2.80GHz (1.25v)
200MHz 2,3,2,6,1T RAM (2.90v)
3x HT Link
NB only overvolted
Load temps of 55-57ish *C.


Wait, so you can get DDR 400 by undervolting the processor? That would make sense I guess, because under load, I cannot get the RAM over 393 MHz, but when CnQ is engaged (and voltage drops to 1.1 V), RAM shoots up to 417 MHz without issue.

Maybe I will just give up on CnQ entirely by consistently undervolting it... as soon as I get my motherboard back, I will let you know.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Wait, so you can get DDR 400 by undervolting the processor? That would make sense I guess, because under load, I cannot get the RAM over 393 MHz, but when CnQ is engaged (and voltage drops to 1.1 V), RAM shoots up to 417 MHz without issue.

Maybe I will just give up on CnQ entirely by consistently undervolting it... as soon as I get my motherboard back, I will let you know.


Well I can get DDR400 by overvolting as well. Seems you might be having some issues with CnQ perhaps? I don't remember you saying you had that turned on. When overclocking we generally will turn off CnQ because it messes with the overclock and will a lot of the times make a stable OC unstable.

EDIT: My issue isn't getting DDR400 speeds, my issue is getting the DDR500 speeds that my sticks are SUPPOSED to run at.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Wait, so you can get DDR 400 by undervolting the processor? That would make sense I guess, because under load, I cannot get the RAM over 393 MHz, but when CnQ is engaged (and voltage drops to 1.1 V), RAM shoots up to 417 MHz without issue.

Maybe I will just give up on CnQ entirely by consistently undervolting it... as soon as I get my motherboard back, I will let you know.


Some clarification is in order here.

Undervolting the CPU does not make the RAM run at a certain speed. These elements are not directly related.

RAM speed is determined by the ratio between the reference clock (HTT clock, or "FSB") divided by a predetermined ratio, or divider, as set in the BIOS. At stock settings, the HTT clock is @ 200MHz. The RAM is also running at 200MHz (which, when double-pumped, results in DDR400) at stock, since the HTT clock and the RAM are running 1:1.

When the HTT clock is increased, the RAM also speeds up as a function of the ratio. Say you bump up the HTT clock to 210MHz; your RAM then runs at DDR420.

Frequently, though, RAM simply cannot keep up with the HTT clock's ability to scale its clock speeds upwards; this is why we use RAM dividers. Dividers slow down the RAM so it operates at a ratio of the HTT clock.

This is but one reason why it's wise to determine each of your subsytems' maximum potential clock speeds. For a stable OC, you won't be maxing out any one subsystem (the CPU would likely be the one that's closest to maxing out, unless you have super RAM that can scale really high); the subsystems' settings would all be within their tested maximums.

Hope this long-ish missive helps!


----------



## froggy1986

dang txtmstrjoe.... u should frickin write the comp terms for wikipedia...sry just had to point out the smarts


----------



## pioneerisloud

Lol, well *I* already knew that







. However great information is always given by you







. And yes I agree, the RAM speed has nothing to do with your CPU volts. I was trying to get to that point, but it might've gotten lost somewhere along my post







.


----------



## Blitz6804

I understand all that... I am having a similar problem to Poser. With 2 GB of RAM, I can have them running at 434 MHz or better. With 4 GB of RAM, the most I can have is 393 MHz with CnQ shut off (but Orthos will not run, I think 377 MHz was fastest which it did). With CnQ turned on, and so, CPU voltage dropped to 1.1 V and the multiplier dropped from 11 to 6, RAM will go up to 417 MHz and run without issue. I need to have CnQ on for the monetary savings. I do not game all the time, and so, I hate to waste electricity when I am not. Of course, I could aways overclock to game and then underclock when I am not, but I would rather avoid that if possible.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I understand all that... I am having a similar problem to Poser. With 2 GB of RAM, I can have them running at 434 MHz or better. With 4 GB of RAM, the most I can have is 393 MHz with CnQ shut off (but Orthos will not run, I think 377 MHz was fastest which it did). With CnQ turned on, and so, CPU voltage dropped to 1.1 V and the multiplier dropped from 11 to 6, RAM will go up to 417 MHz and run without issue. I need to have CnQ on for the monetary savings. I do not game all the time, and so, I hate to waste electricity when I am not. Of course, I could aways overclock to game and then underclock when I am not, but I would rather avoid that if possible.


Most S939 systems cannot support 4GBs of RAM whilst OCed. It's an inherent weakness of S939. Most S939s will automatically slow the RAM down to below stock speeds (which is what you're seeing). This will happen whether or not your system is OCed.









As far as CnQ goes, well, you have a choice to make: OC (and run without CnQ), or run stock (with CnQ). I've never been able to set an OC with any real stability with CnQ on. It's a case of oil and water, I'm afraid...


----------



## Blitz6804

I had a stable CnQ overclock. The screen shot I gave you was as such. That is:










When stressed, the CPU ran at 2420 and the RAM ran at 440/2.5-3-3-6-1t.
When idle, the CPU ran at 1100 and the RAM ran at 440/2.5-3-3-6-1t.

Since putting in the second set of DIMMs is where my troubles arise. I would really like to have 4 GB running considering I am going to be installing Vista. When I put in the second pair, it defaults to 333 MHz. I found out that my MoBo only supports an 800 MHz HT, and since I had it running at 1000 MHz, that might have been my instability. I have so much to try when Gigabyte sends me my board. *Pounds fist on desk in impatience.*

POST-EDIT: For those of you curious, that is running XPsp2, but I have a patched code that permits third-party themes.

POST-EDIT2: And txtmstrjoe, my link on the roster is wrong. It should be http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...ml#post3451781.


----------



## Poser

@Lord Vader - I have to disagree with you sir, your vCore (especially in the case blitz and I are encountering) do have a subsequent affect on RAM speed. Bare in mind, that our IMC (intergrated memory controller) are on die...so vCore changes directly effect its ability to facilitate communication between the memory bus and cpu. This is far more significant in the case of running 4 DIMMS as the saturation point is hit at much lower clock speeds and can be increased by a subsequent increase in vCore and HTT voltages.

Also.... I am seeing more and more evidence of 4*1gb being used in 939 systems effectively, but as the result of serious tweakings to discrete timings and voltages. I have yet to achieve success in stabilizing my system, but will continue to post results of my efforts.

@ Pioneer.... benches man, benches. I would love to see the bandwidth implications of your experiments.

@Millhouse... I hate you and your house smells like cat peeeee

@Britney... get a grip girl, your embarrassing yourself

@ Javier, Joel and Ethan... GREATEST HAIRCUT EVER!!!!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

@ blitz: I'm can't find the specific post linking me to the correct CPU-Z validation. Please PM with link to the correct one.

And my sincere apologies.









@ Poser: Valid points, as usual, good sir. They certainly make me think about my own analysis of the situation, which is always good and welcome.







(I'm SO not what pioneer still insists on calling me, for sure.)

I will admit that I've not really done any proper testing with 4GBs of RAM on a S939; I don't have that two matching pairs that I can spare for an experiment, sadly. And I don't doubt that some OCers have been able to make the S939 + 4GBs (with the RAM OCed above DDR400) work, as I've seen these reports as well. It's just that they tend to be the exception rather than the rule, and that they are very difficult to achieve. I hope you can make it work, though, and that you can share your findings here.









I shall think and analyze this point further. Maybe someday, I'll even have enough RAM to experiment with, and post my findings here.

Good stuff, everyone!


----------



## Poser

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


@ Poser: _*Valid points, as usual, good si*_r. They certainly make me think about my own analysis of the situation, which is always good and welcome.







(I'm SO not what pioneer still insists on calling me, for sure.)



Thats it... I am using you as a reference for my wife/mother/friends/siblings/employer.... who all beg to differ


----------



## rsfkevski

Hello there Skt 939 users. Does anyone here have a great little 939 CPU for a great price. I have an employee that needs one to put in an Asus A8N SLi Deluxe. Please PM me with what you might have. Preferable dual-core







Thanks!


----------



## pioneerisloud

What kind of benches are you wanting to see? I gave up my hunt for high RAM speeds as I couldn't get them stable for more than a minute. I'm now just going for an undervolted overclock (2.8Ghz)...which I'm wrapping up stability testing now....been going strong for 11 hours.


----------



## Poser

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


What kind of benches are you wanting to see? I gave up my hunt for high RAM speeds as I couldn't get them stable for more than a minute. I'm now just going for an undervolted overclock (2.8Ghz)...which I'm wrapping up stability testing now....been going strong for 11 hours.


I was curious about bandwidth during your RAM experiments. I have seen some crazy undervolts... 2.8 stable @ 1.23


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Poser*


I was curious about bandwidth during your RAM experiments. I have seen some crazy undervolts... 2.8 stable @ 1.23










Lol, I gave up with my RAM experiments. My board absolutely HATES my RAM. My old stable overclock consisted of my RAM being set to ALL AUTO settings, including RAM voltage because nothing else was stable. Even if I manually set the auto settings...still a no freakin go. I've FINALLY been able to tweak my RAM timings and voltage, but the divider is still auto set. However my RAM is only running at 200Mhz (DDR400).....so I guess its a trade off, what are you going to do? And actually....since my overclock is proving stable, I'll be updating my sig with the info







.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rsfkevski*


Hello there Skt 939 users. Does anyone here have a great little 939 CPU for a great price. I have an employee that needs one to put in an Asus A8N SLi Deluxe. Please PM me with what you might have. Preferable dual-core







Thanks!


Rsfkevski, I'd recommend taking a look at the For Sale section. You might find one there









Good luck


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Rsfkevski, I'd recommend taking a look at the For Sale section. You might find one there









Good luck


Agreed. Or you can also always post a wanted ad in the wanted section perhaps? I personally don't have a spare processor ATM. I will soon have a single core Opteron 148 whenever it shows up. But I have no clue when that'll be as I bought it 3 months ago.


----------



## GuardianOdin

have a few days off,going to see if I can get 3.1Ghz stable....yet again. Messed with timings and have a "different" cooling solution working on my rig now. So I'm confident I can up the volts with out harm, well atleast until the weather changes and I lose the nice cold winter wind


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


have a few days off,going to see if I can get 3.1Ghz stable....yet again. Messed with timings and have a "different" cooling solution working on my rig now. So I'm confident I can up the volts with out harm, well atleast until the weather changes and I lose the nice cold winter wind










Guardian, I too am sort of wanting to shoot for that speed too. That would probably bring my ram frequency close to stock









Good luck with your testing.


----------



## GuardianOdin

running 3.1Ghz as I type. I am currently searching google to find better timings for my RAM. I have an idea of where it should be but keep losing boot-up stabilty as I change timings and sub-timings.


----------



## GuardianOdin

getting this in Orthos

Code:


Code:


[CODE]
Type: Blend - stress CPU and RAM Min: 8 Max: 4096 InPlace: No Mem: 1790 Time: 15
CPU: 3123MHz FSB: 194MHz [195MHz x 16.0 est.]
2/28/2008 12:55 PM 
Launching 2 threads...
Using CPU #0
Beginning a continuous self-test to check your computer.
Press Stop to end this test.
Test 1, 4000 Lucas-Lehmer iterations of M19922945 using 1024K FFT length.
FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0.4999984335, expected less than 0.4
Hardware failure detected, consult stress.txt file.
Torture Test ran 0 minutes 3 seconds - 1 errors, 0 warnings.
Execution halted.

[/CODE]


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Guardian, what ICs are on your RAM?


----------



## Poser

I am in the same boat... I can get 3.1 boot, complete 1m spi runs... but can't past 20 seconds on orthos.


----------



## Poser

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
getting this in SuperPi

Code:



Code:


[CODE]
Type: Blend - stress CPU and RAM Min: 8 Max: 4096 InPlace: No Mem: 1790 Time: 15
CPU: 3123MHz FSB: 194MHz [195MHz x 16.0 est.]
2/28/2008 12:55 PM 
Launching 2 threads...
Using CPU #0
Beginning a continuous self-test to check your computer.
Press Stop to end this test.
Test 1, 4000 Lucas-Lehmer iterations of M19922945 using 1024K FFT length.
FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0.4999984335, expected less than 0.4
Hardware failure detected, consult stress.txt file.
Torture Test ran 0 minutes 3 seconds - 1 errors, 0 warnings.
Execution halted.

[/CODE]


you mean orthos right ????









edit: just saw the 16x multi, how the heck is that possible. I thought the 165 maxed at a x9 multiplier????

edit #2: If he is running the Gskill HZ's (like me)... then they are either Hynix or Samsung UCCC chips ...which varied wildly from first run production to last.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
getting this in SuperPi

Code:



Code:


[CODE]
Type: Blend - stress CPU and RAM Min: 8 Max: 4096 InPlace: No Mem: 1790 Time: 15

CPU: 3123MHz FSB: 194MHz [195MHz x 16.0 est.]

2/28/2008 12:55 PM

Launching 2 threads...

Using CPU #0

Beginning a continuous self-test to check your computer.

Press Stop to end this test.

Test 1, 4000 Lucas-Lehmer iterations of M19922945 using 1024K FFT length.

FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0.4999984335, expected less than 0.4

Hardware failure detected, consult stress.txt file.

Torture Test ran 0 minutes 3 seconds - 1 errors, 0 warnings.

Execution halted.

[/CODE]


Guardian, that looks like a Orthos error. Are you sure thats superpi? Either way, looks like a overclock is not stable =\\. Is this at 3100mhz?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Guardian, what ICs are on your RAM?

F1-4000USU2-2GB

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Poser* 
you mean orthos right ????









edit: just saw the 16x multi, how the heck is that possible. I thought the 165 maxed at a x9 multiplier????

edit #2: If he is running the Gskill HZ's (like me)... then they are either Hynix or Samsung UCCC chips ...which varied wildly from first run production to last.

I meant Orthos sorry about that. It's 9 multiplier,I believe that is referring to the RAM.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Guardian, that looks like a Orthos error. Are you sure thats superpi? Either way, looks like a overclock is not stable =. Is this at 3100mhz?

yep 3.1Ghz

here is a screenie of CPU-Z


----------



## Blitz6804

Does changing the command rate to 2T change anything? Is there a less-aggressive CPU : DDR ratio you can try? Perhaps 2:1.33 (230 MHz)?


----------



## thlnk3r

Guardian, F1-4000USU2-2GB uses Samsung UCCC. Not sure on it's voltage capabilities. Perhaps Joe can provide that.
Try changing your HT multiplier to 3x. That should take you to 1041mhz. It may or may not be stable. I would also try changing your command rate from 1T to 2T. Is your board stable at 347HTT?

Good luck


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well guys, my overclock undervolt proved successful.
txtmstrjoe, please update the roster!

EDIT: Here's a CPUz SS for the first page!


----------



## thlnk3r

Pioneer, wow I like that. So you went for highest processor overclock on lowest stable voltage? What is your room ambient?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pioneer, wow I like that. So you went for highest processor overclock on lowest stable voltage? What is your room ambient?


I believe my room ambient is around 70*F. And yeah, I was trying not to pass 1.25v in BIOS...I got this with 1.225v in BIOS, so I'm happy. 1.26v underload isn't too shabby at all







. I've known since day one of putting this Opty in that my Zalman would be a big issue...and heat has NEVER given me a chance to really clock this puppie. It's going into that MSI board with a lapped BT soon. Then I'll be cracking it open to unleash its true MHz. Then I'll be on a 170, probably around 2.8GHz with my RAM at 233...hopefully undervolted like I am now.

EDIT: I dunno though....I may just make Froggy crack this 165 open and see what she can do with it...hmmmmmm


----------



## thlnk3r

Pioneer, sounds good. Please keep us updated







. I just recently pulled everything out of my case to retest for a new OC. I was also having heat issues due to the lack of airflow so I'll also be doing some mods to my case. Heat is always a pain.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Speaking of heat, does anyone know if the Scythe Kama-Bay is worth the money for it? Given my case design, where I would put it would be pulling air from the front of the case, over the RAM, right into the Zalman. The extra intake should help cooling no? However, I have heard reports that the fan is weak, and some people use the frame with a different fan. If that is true, how hard is it to swap fans?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Got my XFX RMA back yesterday too. Just popped it into my rig. I wanna overclock it, but I don't know how, lol. So looks like it'll stay stock! Its an XFX 8600GTS XXX Ed. Not too bad for a 7900GS XT that I sent in I suppose?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Speaking of heat, does anyone know if the Scythe Kama-Bay is worth the money for it? Given my case design, where I would put it would be pulling air from the front of the case, over the RAM, right into the Zalman. The extra intake should help cooling no? However, I have heard reports that the fan is weak, and some people use the frame with a different fan. If that is true, how hard is it to swap fans?


Blitz, here are two reviews. Hope these are helpful:

http://www.modthebox.com/review458_1.shtml
http://www.hardwarexl.com/reviews/co...ooler_review_/

Newegg reviews:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835185020

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, I had seen those reviews. I was hoping a few people from OCN had tried it. Oh well, I guess I will hold off for now, as it is I already spent too much lol.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I WOULD LIKE TO CALL A VOTE!

Now that I have your attention







BOOBTERON!

Ok, no seriously







, I say that we all switch our signature around. I say that the link to the 939 club is upside down...EVERYBODY'S (just like in my sig). That way it sets us apart from the other (no name) clubs! Just my thoughts.


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I already spent too much lol.


I sure wish Pioneer would take that advice when he's buying parts....


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, that, and I bought a HDD caddy for my new hard drive without thinking. Accordingly, I would be short one 5.25" slot. Now, if I instead returned that to NE, it would work. I am not sure I want to do that though.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Does changing the command rate to 2T change anything? Is there a less-aggressive CPU : DDR ratio you can try? Perhaps 2:1.33 (230 MHz)?


actually changing to T2 timings did help,but not at 3.1Ghz. I lower the OC back down to 3Ghz but was able to get a higher RAM OC.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Guardian, F1-4000USU2-2GB uses Samsung UCCC. Not sure on it's voltage capabilities. Perhaps Joe can provide that.
Try changing your HT multiplier to 3x. That should take you to 1041mhz. It may or may not be stable. I would also try changing your command rate from 1T to 2T. Is your board stable at 347HTT?

Good luck


My Mobo is stable to 355HTT so far to boot up in, I haven't tried to go past that just yet. But that was before I adjusted the RAM timings and set it to T2.

Here is a screenie of temps and RAM OC.

*EDIT:* The volts are up on the CPU still. I forgot to lower it.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
actually changing to T2 timings did help,but not at 3.1Ghz. I lower the OC back down to 3Ghz but was able to get a higher RAM OC.

My Mobo is stable to 355HTT so far to boot up in, I haven't tried to go past that just yet. But that was before I adjusted the RAM timings and set it to T2.

Here is a screenie of temps and RAM OC.

*EDIT:* The volts are up on the CPU still. I forgot to lower it.










Guardian, core 2 looks a little warm but that is to be expected with 1.55volts.

OT: What is the exact version number of your Everest application?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Guardian, core 2 looks a little warm but that is to be expected with 1.55volts.

OT: What is the exact version number of your Everest application?

4.20.1257 Beta Thats what the help file says. Is it not reading something correctly?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

@ pioneer & Guardian: Good to see your OCs, guys! I must confess that I haven't done any real OCing, not even on my testing rig, for a couple of months now. I have to get back on that horse pretty soon.

@ blitz: Wish I had something to report regarding the Kama Bay. However, thlnk3r's links ought to help you decide on whether or not to buy.









@ thlnk3r: I wanna see some digi-pix of your case mod, man! I don't have the stones to cut up any of my cases. That's as honest as when I told you off-forum that I don't have the tools or the workshop to do major mods to that, too.

@ pioneer & Guardian again: You guys are skilled as well as lucky. I don't own a chip that can OC that much at sub-stock VCore, pioneer, and even with more VCore I can't manage an extended run with Orthos Blend (@ Priority 9, no less) at above 2.95V on any of my chips, Guardian. Kudos to both of you!

@ froggy: Hi!







You must be one real patient gal to put up with crazy pioneer.







I know he drives ME crazy.









(I should tell him that I want the XFX now... Muhahahahaha)


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
@ pioneer & Guardian: Good to see your OCs, guys! I must confess that I haven't done any real OCing, not even on my testing rig, for a couple of months now. I have to get back on that horse pretty soon.

@ blitz: Wish I had something to report regarding the Kama Bay. However, thlnk3r's links ought to help you decide on whether or not to buy.









@ thlnk3r: I wanna see some digi-pix of your case mod, man! I don't have the stones to cut up any of my cases. That's as honest as when I told you off-forum that I don't have the tools or the workshop to do major mods to that, too.

@ pioneer & Guardian again: You guys are skilled as well as lucky. I don't own a chip that can OC that much at sub-stock VCore, pioneer, and even with more VCore I can't manage an extended run with Orthos Blend (@ Priority 9, no less) at above 2.95V on any of my chips, Guardian. Kudos to both of you!

@ froggy: Hi!







You must be one real patient gal to put up with crazy pioneer.







I know he drives ME crazy.









(I should tell him that I want the XFX now... Muhahahahaha)

Thanks man, this is where the fun part of OC'ing kicks in. You know it's there and you can taste it. It's finding that perfect volt/timing or temp you rig loves.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Did NOBODY read my suggestion????


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Did NOBODY read my suggestion????

Yes sir I did just now see it









but no, I originally didn't not see it.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Did NOBODY read my suggestion????

I did.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Is it not reading something correctly?

Guardian, oh no buddy...I was just wanting to see what version I had in comparison. I think my version of Everest is old.

Joe, thanks man. I look forward to freeing up some unwanted space for more airflow









Pioneer, what was your suggesiton?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Woot! Â¡Â¡Â¡ʍʇɟ qn1ɔ 939 ʇǝʞɔos ǝɥʇ Let's keep it goin!!!!


----------



## Blitz6804

Does anyone live near City of Industry, California who can go yell at Gigabyte to hurry up for me? I am really getting impatient to get my specs better!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Does anyone live near City of Industry, California who can go yell at Gigabyte to hurry up for me? I am really getting impatient to get my specs better!

I do, actually.









But I doubt they'd listen to me.


----------



## Blitz6804

I will PAY YOU to take care of this for me.

*Wires 5Â¢ to txtmstrjoe's PayPal*

GET SNAPPIN!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I will PAY YOU to take care of this for me.

*Wires 5Â¢ to txtmstrjoe's PayPal*

GET SNAPPIN!

Ooh! Bus fare!

Oh wait. I need... (does Opteron speed mathematical calculations) around three bucks more.

Plus PayPal fees.


----------



## Blitz6804

Three dollars more!? Dude, I would expect a MSI K8N Neo2 or better!


----------



## Blitz6804

An update on the Scythe KAMA BAY SCKB. I decided to use it instead of the drive caddy I ordered. Newegg just told me to refuse shipment, so we are golden!

Fearing the 30 CFM fan would be too weak, I also ordered a 107 CFM fan to place in the bay. Once my motherboard is back, I will give you all temperature readings without any fan (just the grate), with the stock fan, and with the upgraded fan.


----------



## iandroo888

time to add another 939 on there txtmstrjoe







look in mah sig


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


time to add another 939 on there txtmstrjoe







look in mah sig


I have looked at your sig, good sir, and have updated the roster accordingly.









Good job with that Opteron!









Fly that S939 flag with pride!


----------



## dskina

Updated sig


----------



## iandroo888

maybe i should get an award for having the most 939s rofl kidding.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


maybe i should get an award for having the most 939s rofl kidding.


I'm pretty sure txtmstrjoe, and some others here have more than you do though







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I'm pretty sure txtmstrjoe, and some others here have more than you do though







.


I don't know...

Maybe.









You have a pretty good collection yourself, pioneer!

Nonetheless, kudos to iandroo for having a good selection of OCed S939s!









pioneer: Your sig looks kinda goofy. Part of it looks kinda... reversed. thlnk3r's too. What's up with that?!?


----------



## iandroo888

update on validation for the opty. 2952MHz. think thats limit for me.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I don't know...

Maybe.









*You have a pretty good collection yourself, pioneer!*

Nonetheless, kudos to iandroo for having a good selection of OCed S939s!









pioneer: Your sig looks kinda goofy. Part of it looks kinda... reversed. thlnk3r's too. What's up with that?!?


Well I don't know about that. I've got my Opty, soon to be an Opty 170







, the X2, and I'm waiting for a single core Opty 148. And of course, I may or may not be upgrading to a Core2Duo as my main rig. I'm unsure of this move just yet though....stay tuned on that one. I'll find out if my Opty can handle Crysis on all oober high or not soon enough!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I don't know...

Maybe.









You have a pretty good collection yourself, pioneer!

Nonetheless, kudos to iandroo for having a good selection of OCed S939s!









pioneer: Your sig looks kinda goofy. Part of it looks kinda... reversed. thlnk3r's too. What's up with that?!?


You didn't catch the memo? I put it in BIG bold letters. We're all using Fliptext.org to upside down our 939 links. That way our club stands out







.


----------



## timxirish

3:50am... Done testing these few random bioses and got a good one for my board. Found one that had better overclocking related features and *gasp*... Working USB keyboard support. Not having that really put a halt on my dual boot config. Bought a Merc Stealth, and the dumb thing wouldn't arrow up/down in the boot menu.

Anyway, CPU-Z validation at last, but only the 3500+ Venice for now







. Opty will come later.



timxirish's Athlon 64 3500+ Venice @ 2.37GHz









Chipset's a little hot thanks to the fan refusing to spin. I probably pushed my video card barely too far in after dusting, causing it to rest on the fan. If that's not the case, the thing finally died on me, and it's time to replace.


----------



## Blitz6804

Wait, you change the BIOS on your motherboard? You are using different revisions of what is supposed to be there, or actually different BIOSes?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Roster updated. Welcome, timxirish! Glad to have you aboard.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Wait, you change the BIOS on your motherboard? You are using different revisions of what is supposed to be there, or actually different BIOSes?

This is called "BIOS flashing." Almost all enthusiast-class motherboards include some way of wiping out then overwriting its BIOS. Most will tell you the traditional way is best, i.e., flash out of the OS environment with a floppy drive. Some, though, will say that it's perfectly fine to do a BIOS flash whilst in Windows (as motherboard manufacturers do provide the means by which you can do this). Follow your motherboard's specific directions regarding BIOS flashing, of course.

You'll run into different opinions regarding BIOS flashing, as well. Some will automatically just flash onto the newest BIOS version (some are merely updates, others can be entirely new versions with added - or reduced - functionality programmed into them) whenever it comes out; others won't bother. It all depends on your specific situation.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
You didn't catch the memo? I put it in BIG bold letters. We're all using Fliptext.org to upside down our 939 links. That way our club stands out







.

Oh, I knew about that, of course.









I would've thought that the club by itself, and what it offers, stands out and stands up well enough on its own.







But that's cool!


----------



## thlnk3r

Welcome timxirish


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, I understand BIOS flashing all too well; that is what killed my GA-K8NSC-939. It just sounded like he removed like an Phoenix to put an Award on or something, rather than changing versions.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Yeah, I understand BIOS flashing all too well; that is what killed my GA-K8NSC-939. It just sounded like he removed like an Phoenix to put an Award on or something, rather than changing versions.

Cool, cool.









Out of curiosity, blitz, did you flash in Windows or out of it?

Also, as far as I know, you cannot go from a Phoenix-written BIOS on the same board to another BIOS written by another company.


----------



## Blitz6804

I used @BIOS in Windows. It failed. I tried it again. It failed. I told it to restore to the backup, it said restore successful. Upon computer restart, it was dead.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I used @BIOS in Windows. It failed. I tried it again. It failed. I told it to restore to the backup, it said restore successful. Upon computer restart, it was dead.


Blitz, that is definitely not good. I think your going to have to RMA the board









Sorry if this has been mentioned already but who is the manufacturer of the motherboard?


----------



## Blitz6804

Gigabyte. It is already with them, I should have it back in another week or so.


----------



## Poser

@Blitz, I believe Tim is referring to a modded BIOS...such merlins or BigToe's. DFI has an extensive enthusiast user base who look for any means of extricating maximum performance from there boards. They will take a factory released BIOS and tweak settings to be more friendly with specific ICs (RAM), update RAID controllers and the such.

TMODs/Loggan26 ISO is a pretty widely know collection of DFI specific BIOS mods


----------



## timxirish

Thanks txtmstrjoe, thlnk3r.

And yeah, on the bios flashing stuff, used Tmod's DFI bios cd. Very easy and comfortable way to flash the thing. The old bios I had was DFI offical from 2004, then I went to a newly updated option for my motherboard: "Merlin's Taipan" from Jan. 3rd 08.

Seemed like it was worth a shot (considering the offical bioses havent seen an update since 06), but it did not have the Genie bios menu (allows storing settings in 4 seperate banks) that I was fond of. Aside from that, I booted into windows to see what (if anything) was different.

Well... My second gigabit ethernet port was disabled. I use that port for feeding my computer internet, setting up that port to be shared with the first one (which is often connected via crossover to my 360). So seeing as one integrated device wasn't working, I decided it probably had some other quirks in it I hadn't discovered yet and wasn't worth my time.

Reflashed with OCZ Tony's nf4 704-2bta and it works perfectly, ethernet ports and Genie included.


----------



## Poser

@TIM... the genie BIOS is the overclocking options (Frequencies, discrete RAM timings etc...)

_*CMOS RELOADED*_ ...is the feature that provides 4 seperate banks to record BIOS settings. I couldn't agree with you more...that is my FAVORITE feature of DFI BIOS'. It streamlines the whole trial and error process of overclocking.

Merlin has had some nice BIOS mods in the past... but to remove CMOS RELOADED, that is just pure fail in my opinion.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Gigabyte. It is already with them, I should have it back in another week or so.


Blitz, doh sorry about that. Forgot about the K8NSC-939


----------



## timxirish

@ Poser: Ah, excuse me then. In the times I've entered the bios, the names have always been the lowest on my "to remember" priority list.







.... What's IN the menus has always been top priority though







.

But yeah, you're definitely right. I was actually wondering to myself if it _was_ CMOS Reloaded when I was typing that. To be honest, CMOS Reloaded might have been there (i forget if i checked every menu or not-- things wern't in the same spot), but I couldn't stand not being able to use both ethernet ports, so I ditched it.


----------



## Poser

Quote:



Originally Posted by *timxirish*


@ Poser: *Ah, excuse me then. In the times I've entered the bios, the names have always been the lowest on my "to remember" priority list.







.... What's IN the menus has always been top priority though







.*


Touche good sir, well played.....

Quote:



Originally Posted by *timxirish*


But yeah, you're definitely right. I was actually wondering to myself if it _was_ CMOS Reloaded when I was typing that. To be honest, CMOS Reloaded might have been there (i forget if i checked every menu or not-- things wern't in the same spot), but I couldn't stand not being able to use both ethernet ports, so I ditched it.


did you see if you could re-enable the ethernet port in either Advanced BIOS settings menu/ or the bottom of the first page of the GENIE bios settings??


----------



## timxirish

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Poser* 
did you see if you could re-enable the ethernet port in either Advanced BIOS settings menu/ or the bottom of the first page of the GENIE bios settings??

Of course. As far as I could tell, I had enabled everything that should have given me access to the port (most integrated devices were disabled by default). Even still, it would only detect the nvidia port, and the Marvell one was off in space somewhere.

For the record, another thing Merlin's was missing was the Lanparty Logo on boot (and yes, I made sure the logo was enabled and saved). It was something I missed, but was not a deciding factor at all on using a different bios. I rarely shut this machine down, hence I rarely see the logo anyway. Now what WAS kind of neat about the Merlin bios was being able to type in the FSB freq instead of scrolling down a list (limit is 200-400 if i remember right. EDIT: and to clarify, for Merlin's). The OCZ Tony bios I'm using at the moment does not have that, but I feel very at home with it anyway.


----------



## Blitz6804

Good news: The UPS man just came.

The better news: I am now armed with a Sapphire HD 3850 AGP and a Hitachi Deskstar 750 GB.

The socket LGA 775 news: My motherboard was not with him. *Sobs*

(Kudos to any who get the joke...)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Good news: The UPS man just came.

The better news: I am now armed with a Sapphire HD 3850 AGP and a Hitachi Deskstar 750 GB.

The socket LGA 775 news: My motherboard was not with him. *Sobs*

(Kudos to any who get the joke...)


Blitz, I get it







har har har


----------



## Blitz6804

I have just found what is likely the coolest review of all time.

http://www.overclockersclub.com/revi...tech_mcw6500t/

A review for a Peltier water block. Personally, after reading it, I wish I had the scratch to get one and the skills to match.

Oh, and just as a quick addendum, there are a few pictures of topless CPUs in there...


----------



## iandroo888

Hellooooooooooooooo 3GHZ







*check sig*


----------



## pioneerisloud

Hey guys...just checking in for the night







. What do you think of my new avatar? I can thank iandroo888 for supplying the logo.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

@ iandroo: Do you want me to update your link on the first page? LOL

@ pioneer: That's mega, man! Looks GREAT! And kudos to iandroo for doing that Pioneer logo for ya.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
@ iandroo: Do you want me to update your link on the first page? LOL

@ pioneer: That's mega, man! Looks GREAT! And kudos to iandroo for doing that Pioneer logo for ya.

nah update when i can get it OCCT stable at least.. im getting BSOD'ed within first minute of stressing. not sure why. 334 FSB. Auto memory settings. Tried 1.5125 and 1.525 cpu vcore. afraid to go any higher.

haha could of done a better job but rusty at photoshop n illustrator. havent done that stuff really for like 3-4 years. glad u guys like it


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
nah update when i can get it OCCT stable at least.. im getting BSOD'ed within first minute of stressing. not sure why. 334 FSB. Auto memory settings. Tried 1.5125 and 1.525 cpu vcore. afraid to go any higher.

haha could of done a better job but rusty at photoshop n illustrator. havent done that stuff really for like 3-4 years. glad u guys like it









Cool, cool.

I hope you give me a reason to update it, then.







It'd be great to get that Opteron OCCT stable at least.









Good luck with it!


----------



## iandroo888

yeah doin some memtests now.. im actually testing the timings i had for my 2954MHz oc. people said they were pretty good timings so i wanna check if they are good. 2.5-3-3-5 @ 1T.

also, i tried your 3-4-4-8 @ 2T and doin OCCT. still BSOD'ed =/ think im at limit


----------



## Blitz6804

What temperature is the processor at right before it dies? Do you have any way to check your RAM temperatures? Is your RAM 2x1024 or 4x512?


----------



## iandroo888

temps are find. below 60. nothin outrageous. my goal was to keep it under 60 and thats where it is. not sure where to check ram temps. shouldnt be too high. i have a 120mm on the 5.25" bay thats intaking air that should be blowing air at the memory too. its a 2x1024mb set corsair xms ddr400 pc3200 3-3-3-8 stock.


----------



## Blitz6804

At that point then I would blame your CPU's timings. I see you have your divider set such that even though the CPU is 327 MHz, your RAM is 400 MHz. I have had XMS 400 RAM running at 434 MHz without much difficulty, so I do not think that is your roadblock. See if you can upgrade cooling a bit such that you can up the voltage. The other thing to consider is dropping the ratio a bit more (RAM to 333 or so) and see if that takes some of the load off the processor.

EDIT: It is possible however that your RAM is not as overclockable as mine. I have XMS 400 that has 2-3-3-6-1T (TWINX2048-3200C2PT) stock timings whereas yours are 3-4-4-8-1T (TWINX2048-3200).


----------



## iandroo888

i remember finding info on the corsair site saying the optimal timings for my ram were 2.5-3-3-6 which i found out when i oc'ed my last processor (found out myself.. lucky me.. LOL).

will try dropping the divider to lowest and see if that helps. its at a 266 divider now. will try a 200 divider.


----------



## Blitz6804

You will need to read the box that the RAM came in or the actual DIMMs.

TWINX2048-3200C2PT, TWINX2048-3200C2, and TWINX2048-3200C2 PRO are 2-3-3-6-1T. (I have 2 DIMMs of C2PT and 2 DIMMS of C2 PRO)

TWINXP2048-3200C2, TWINX2048-3200PT, and TWINX2048-3200 are 3-3-3-8-1T.

Information on all presently-manufactured XMS RAM can be found on Corsair's Website.

Best of luck!

If they are of any help, my RAM read as follows:

2 of:
CMX1024-3200C2PRO XMS3202v1.2 0610024-1
XMS3200 1024MB 400MHz CL2

2 of:
CMX1024-3200C2PT XMS3202v8.1 08025016-0
XMS3200 1024MB 400MHz CL2

Wow... Version 1.2 versus Version 8.1... can you tell there is a 2-year age difference between those DIMMs?

And I finally got my Scanner to work again, and so:



Click to enlarge (90 KB)


----------



## pioneerisloud

You might also want to try out 333FSB iandroo







. Your board may be as picky as mine. 333 is stable for me, 334 is unstable. Even with a dropped multi (8x), 334 is unstable. I can boot up all the way to 372MHz FSB, but its not stable. You could try that out, loosen timings, up voltages (RAM can safely go to 2.90v, CPU @ 1.55v ish)....whatever you feel comfortable with. Also, from what I know, if your RAM feels really warm to the touch, time to turn them down some, lol. That's the only help I can tell you for RAM temps.


----------



## iandroo888

what the gay







i dont want 2999 or whatever. i want that 3 ! rawr LOL


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


what the gay







i dont want 2999 or whatever. i want that 3 ! rawr LOL


It's 2997MHz.....and I'm pretty sure nobody would really give you any grief over 3MHz, lol. In all technicality if you round it, it is 3.0GHz. Figured I'd make a point of that.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


It's 2997MHz.....and I'm pretty sure nobody would really give you any grief over 3MHz, lol. In all technicality if you round it, it is 3.0GHz. Figured I'd make a point of that.


Sounds like "fuzzy math" to me, guys.










Totally off-topic: I'm awake right now because my baby sister called from the hospital. She's expecting her second child!









As far as I know, my next nephew doesn't have an official middle name yet. Do you think she'll take my suggestion of "Opteron"?

"Alex Opteron... I like the sound of that..."


----------



## pioneerisloud

Oh you hush. I ran mine at 2997MHz most of its life.

Alex Opteron, huh?

I like:
Alex Boobteron







.

Congratulations on the new addition to your family though! May not be your own kid, but its still excited







.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


You will need to read the box that the RAM came in or the actual DIMMs.

TWINX2048-3200C2PT, TWINX2048-3200C2, and TWINX2048-3200C2 PRO are 2-3-3-6-1T. (I have 2 DIMMs of C2PT and 2 DIMMS of C2 PRO)

TWINXP2048-3200C2, TWINX2048-3200PT, and TWINX2048-3200 are 3-3-3-8-1T.

Information on all presently-manufactured XMS RAM can be found on Corsair's Website.

Best of luck!

If they are of any help, my RAM read as follows:

2 of:
CMX1024-3200C2PRO XMS3202v1.2 0610024-1
XMS3200 1024MB 400MHz CL2

2 of:
CMX1024-3200C2PT XMS3202v8.1 08025016-0
XMS3200 1024MB 400MHz CL2

Wow... Version 1.2 versus Version 8.1... can you tell there is a 2-year age difference between those DIMMs?

And I finally got my Scanner to work again, and so:



Click to enlarge (90 KB)


my ram looks like ur second set. with the platinum heatspreaders.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


It's 2997MHz.....and I'm pretty sure nobody would really give you any grief over 3MHz, lol. In all technicality if you round it, it is 3.0GHz. Figured I'd make a point of that.


true i guess..

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Sounds like "fuzzy math" to me, guys.










Totally off-topic: I'm awake right now because my baby sister called from the hospital. She's expecting her second child!









As far as I know, my next nephew doesn't have an official middle name yet. Do you think she'll take my suggestion of "Opteron"?

"Alex Opteron... I like the sound of that..."











oh grats on your newborn nephew! lol i think alex would kill you for giving him opteron. haha.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Thanks, guys.

Now... if only my cold (mild flu? I'm still blaming YOU, pioneer! ROFL) would just magically disappear, I can visit the hospital at sun-up to be with my sister and new nephew.

(He hasn't been born yet, but he will be soon. What if he's born @ 9:39? Muhahahahaha)


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*











Thanks, guys.

Now... if only my cold (mild flu? I'm still blaming YOU, pioneer! ROFL) would just magically disappear, I can visit the hospital at sun-up to be with my sister and new nephew.

(He hasn't been born yet, but he will be soon. *What if he's born @ 9:39? * Muhahahahaha)


If he's born at 9:39, and he doesn't have Opteron SOMEWHERE on his birth certificate...I'll disown you as the 939 king, and I'll takeover as father to the newborn and name him Opteron myself







(nickname of Opty of course.....for schoolground reasons).


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*











Thanks, guys.

Now... if only my cold (mild flu? I'm still blaming YOU, pioneer! ROFL) would just magically disappear, I can visit the hospital at sun-up to be with my sister and new nephew.

(He hasn't been born yet, but he will be soon. What if he's born @ 9:39? Muhahahahaha)


crazy people..

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


If he's born at 9:39, and he doesn't have Opteron SOMEWHERE on his birth certificate...I'll disown you as the 939 king, and I'll takeover as father to the newborn and name him Opteron myself







(nickname of Opty of course.....for schoolground reasons).


>_>


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


my ram looks like ur second set. with the platinum heatspreaders.


But is it the CL2 or CL3 version? If you zoom my RAM in, you will notice in the bottom right corner of the label it says CL2, denoting it is 2-3-3-6. If yours says CL3, it would be 3-3-3-8.

Congrats to txtmastrjoe's sister. Unfortunately, her son will never have the joy of overclocking a Skt939. (>_<)

And technically pioneerisloud, 2997 MHz is 2.93 GHz...

3.00 GHz is 3072 MHz, since 1 GHz = 2^10 MHz = 1024 MHz.


----------



## Poser

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


And technically pioneerisloud, 2997 MHz is 2.93 GHz...

3.00 GHz is 3072 MHz, since 1 GHz = 2^10 MHz = 1024 MHz.


Anal







....but true









+rep


----------



## iandroo888

lol !


----------



## PROBN4LYFE

find mine on hwbot...but i'm in


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


But is it the CL2 or CL3 version? If you zoom my RAM in, you will notice in the bottom right corner of the label it says CL2, denoting it is 2-3-3-6. If yours says CL3, it would be 3-3-3-8.

Congrats to txtmastrjoe's sister. Unfortunately, her son will never have the joy of overclocking a Skt939. (>_<)

And technically pioneerisloud, 2997 MHz is 2.93 GHz...

*3.00 GHz is 3072 MHz, since 1 GHz = 2^10 MHz = 1024 MHz.*


Actually according to your math, 10^2 = *1000*. I've never heard of Mhz/Ghz using the 1024 rule, I believe that only applies to hard drives. And if you mistrust my math, Windows calculator will prove you wrong







. I believe MHz and GHz are all reported by 1000's. Its MB, GB that you're thinking of, which are in 1024 increments. So technically 2997MHz is either 2.99GHz (if you round down) or 3.0GHz (if you round the 3MHz up, which basic 3rd grade math tells you to do).


----------



## Blitz6804

Actually, no.

2^10 = 2x2x2x2x2x2x2x2x2x2 = 1024 = G
10^3 = 10x10x10 = 1000 = Gi

Technically speaking, 3.00 GHz is 3072 MHz, and 3.00 GiHz is 3000 MHz. Granted, most CPU manufacturers, like many hard drive manufacturers, use "GHz" when they mean "GiHz."

Side-bar, 10^2 = 100. Double-check YOUR math, I am sure WinCalc will agree.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Lol, my bad. I must be hitting the wrong button perhaps. Just double checked it the old fashioned way, and your math seems correct, however I've still NEVER heard of MHz and GHz being reported that way. Never. I still stand by my 2997=3.0 rating though. Just because standard 3rd grade math is telling me to, lol.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes, most people would argue that 2997 MHz ~ 3.0 GHz (when we really mean GiHz). I agree, we should not make a federal case over 3 measly megahertz, but that is a difference of 3,145,728 hertz, and thus, something to advocate!

(I kid of course)


----------



## pioneerisloud

Your math skillz absolutely astound me! Your most definitely a true Boobteron







.


----------



## Blitz6804

I have a BS in Chemistry with minors in Mathematics and Criminal Justice; I should hope I know how to do math.

And nope, I am an X2! LOL.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I have a BS in Chemistry with minors in Mathematics and Criminal Justice; I should hope I know how to do math.

*And nope, I am an X2! LOL.*

Yeah but with math skillz like that, you've gotta be a true Boobteron at heart







. You gots to remember, the Opteronz are the leet versions of the x2's, lol. J/k. I haven't done math myself since high school...which was roughly 3 years ago, lol.


----------



## Blitz6804

I did not know about Opterons when I bought my X2. If I did, I may have opted to buy one instead. But as you can see, I only found this forum a little over a month ago.


----------



## justin146

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Technically speaking, 3.00 GHz is 3072 MHz, and 3.00 GiHz is 3000 MHz. Granted, most CPU manufacturers, like many hard drive manufacturers, use "GHz" when they mean "GiHz."

No, 1Ghz = 10^9. 3Ghz is 3000Mhz. The only time Giga=1024 is when speaking about memory, never in relation to frequency.


----------



## Blitz6804

Never in regards to frequency, got it. I know it is used in memory and storage, but apparently not frequency.


----------



## GuardianOdin

I'm right and your all wrong.Thats all anyone needs to know


----------



## Poser

I hate to interrupt the friendly math banter... especially as it seems on the verge of descending into a linear regression/mathematical topography contest...

but I have an

*UPDATE: The DDR320 Wall has been breached...

finally I have been able to boot into Vista running 4gb (excuse me 4096mb... want to be mathematically correct







) @ DDR400

key factors include:
vdimm @ 2.72v
tref: 0648 (15.6us, 166mhz)
Dram Drive Stength: lvl 3 (15%reduce)
Data Drive Strength: (normal 8)
MAL: 8ns










will test for stability and loosen up timings, try to match old clock and tighten from their...

I have a ton of 2.9ghz bench pics to upload as well...

but initial bandwidth loss at 2.4 DDR400 4gigs was less than expected... see pic

now I eat...
*


----------



## GuardianOdin

gratz man!


----------



## Poser

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


gratz man!


thank you good sir!


----------



## GuardianOdin

btw,I am running my ram at DDR548







changing to T2 form T1 really helped.


----------



## Blitz6804

GuardianOdin: You are also running 2x1024. Poser and I run 4x1024. This brings about a whole bag of stability issues.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


GuardianOdin: You are also running 2x1024. Poser and I run 4x1024. This brings about a whole bag of stability issues.


for sure,but in my case I had been running DDR333 in BIOS and it had been reading it incorrectly. It wasn't until a few days ago I noticed that it started reading the RAM correctly.

That would explain some of the instability issues I was having with anything above 3Ghz.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Congratulations to all for figuring out the one thing I can't OC!







!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Congratulations to all for figuring out the one thing I can't OC!







!


you can't OC your RAM?


----------



## Poser

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


btw,I am running my ram at DDR548







changing to T2 form T1 really helped.


no question that loosening CPC to 2T can unlock a ton of MHz in speed







... but it does take a hit on bandwidth and latency


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


you can't OC your RAM?


Lol, negative! I'm now at under stock speeds with SLIGHTLY tighter timings. But the DDR400 kit of the same stuff has way tighter timings than I can hit. Go figure! I hate RAM, lol.


----------



## Blitz6804

Not to mention that it generally does not work when all DIMMs are populated. I do not know if you have had any luck Poser, but my PC will not even POST if I have 4 DIMMs in with 1T command rate.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Poser* 
no question that loosening CPC to 2T can unlock a ton of MHz in speed







... but it does take a hit on bandwidth and latency









nope. I ran 28 sec in SuperPi 1M and run the same at T2.To be honest I really haven't noticed any difference.


----------



## Blitz6804

To be completely honest GuardianOdin, I do not notice any difference what so ever when I overclocked my computer. 2.2 GHz, 2.7 Ghz... does not seem to make a huge difference.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
To be completely honest GuardianOdin, I do not notice any difference what so ever when I overclocked my computer. 2.2 GHz, 2.7 Ghz... does not seem to make a huge difference.

I'm not familiar with the X2 4400,but with this Opty 165 I noticed a nice difference from 2.8Ghz to 3Ghz.Faster boot up to unpacking a large winrar file. Now if I could only get it stable at 3.1Ghz


----------



## Blitz6804

Pump up the voltage? 1.9V perhaps?

I am just kidding... please do not roast your processor. (Lest not the following happens!)












I am going to bed now, I have wasted yet another weekend not doing homework. I need my computer back, this funk is killing me! (>_<)


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
I'm not familiar with the X2 4400,but with this Opty 165 I noticed a nice difference from 2.8Ghz to 3Ghz.Faster boot up to unpacking a large winrar file. Now if I could only get it stable at 3.1Ghz









That's really quite odd. Here's my problem. I went from 3.0GHz down to 2.8GHz...and its actually faster at 2.8GHz. Go figure! It may or may not bench faster, I never tried. But it certainly FEELS faster at 2.8.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Lol, negative! I'm now at under stock speeds with SLIGHTLY tighter timings. But the DDR400 kit of the same stuff has way tighter timings than I can hit. Go figure! I hate RAM, lol.


1.what are you set in BIOS with your RAM?
2.what is you FSB currently?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
That's really quite odd. Here's my problem. I went from 3.0GHz down to 2.8GHz...and its actually faster at 2.8GHz. Go figure! It may or may not bench faster, I never tried. But it certainly FEELS faster at 2.8.

now I have to try 2.8Ghz when I get home and see if I notice a difference








You may not feel faster at 3Ghz becuase your RAM is holding you back a bit. Just a thought


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
1.what are you set in BIOS with your RAM?
2.what is you FSB currently?

1. BIOS I have my timings of 2,3,2,6,1T set. 133 divider. 2.9v.
2. I'm CURRENTLY running 312FSB.

I was hoping to get my RAM closer to stock specs, but it ain't gonna happen without tweaking sub timings I think. And I have absolutely no clue where to begin and I really don't feel like reading the million pages on the DFI memory tweaking guide, lol.


----------



## Blitz6804

Okay... I just noticed your RAM on my way out...

312 FSB => 207 (DDR 414) on the RAM.

However, due to the funniness of non-matched dividers, I would gather the RAM is actually running at CPU/14 = 201 (DDR 402).

Does it really need that high of voltage to reach DDR 400 speeds? Is it stable at anything lower?

EDIT: And/or is the computer willing to boot at 3-3-3-8-1T at a 1.66 divider? (That would give you CPU/11 = 255 unless I am horribly mistaken.)


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
1. BIOS I have my timings of 2,3,2,6,1T set. 133 divider. 2.9v.
2. I'm CURRENTLY running 312FSB.

I was hoping to get my RAM closer to stock specs, but it ain't gonna happen without tweaking sub timings I think. And I have absolutely no clue where to begin and I really don't feel like reading the million pages on the DFI memory tweaking guide, lol.

change the CL to 3 and set the T to T2 for now,honestly you really won't notice a difference with the speed. Now change the RAM to either 150 or 166. I'd start with 150

*EDIT:* don't worry about sub timings just yet. Just set them to auto for now and get stable first.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
change the CL to 3 and set the T to T2 for now,honestly you really won't notice a difference with the speed. Now change the RAM to either 150 or 166. I'd start with 150

*EDIT:* don't worry about sub timings just yet. Just set them to auto for now and get stable first.

Alright, so I'll just go stock timings of 3,3,2,8,2T then. I'll go with the 166 divider...and yes I need 2.9v on them. Anything more, they get too hot. Anything less, well hell I just don't care, lol. If I had a 150 divider I'd use it, but I don't







. I'll do that real quick, restart and post here. We'll see what happens, lol.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Alright, so I'll just go stock timings of 3,3,2,8,2T then. I'll go with the 166 divider...and yes I need 2.9v on them. Anything more, they get too hot. Anything less, well hell I just don't care, lol. If I had a 150 divider I'd use it, but I don't







. I'll do that real quick, restart and post here. We'll see what happens, lol.

whoops,I was thinking you were running a DFI Mobo. As far as RAM, I know mine like lower volts which is a good thing.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Alright, here's what I set:

RAMv - 2.90v
Divider - 166MHz
Timings - 3,3,2,8,2T
(all the above is manually set).

Everything else is all auto set. This put my RAM at 255MHz (DDR510). And yes, before it was at 200.9MHz or something like that. Testing with Orthos blended now. We'll see if I get lucky this time







. I have yet to even boot past 233Mhz, so we'll see...so far so good...I'm still here!

EDIT: *Orthos STOPPED at 2min. 53 seconds in! UNSTABLE!*
This is why I HATE tweaking RAM!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Alright, here's what I set:

RAMv - 2.90v
Divider - 166MHz
Timings - 3,3,2,8,2T
(all the above is manually set).

Everything else is all auto set. This put my RAM at 255MHz (DDR510). And yes, before it was at 200.9MHz or something like that. Testing with Orthos blended now. We'll see if I get lucky this time







. I have yet to even boot past 233Mhz, so we'll see...so far so good...I'm still here!

EDIT: *Orthos STOPPED at 2min. 53 seconds in! UNSTABLE!*
This is why I HATE tweaking RAM!

ok,now try 3,4,4,8,2T "I know that sucks" but give it a shot anyway.

*EDIT:* Can you get a shot of the RAM settings in BIOS for me?

*EDIT2:* Is this some of your BIOS settings? If so,


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


ok,now try 3,4,4,8,2T "I know that sucks" but give it a shot anyway.

*EDIT:* Can you get a shot of the RAM settings in BIOS for me?

*EDIT2:* Is this some of your BIOS settings? If so,











Actually yes. That's my exact BIOS settings for RAM. I'll give that a shot. And I even tried 3,5,5,10,2T and it was unstable. So I'll give that a go.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Actually yes. That's my exact BIOS settings for RAM. I'll give that a shot. And I even tried 3,5,5,10,2T and it was unstable. So I'll give that a go.


well atleast you know now that it will boot in at those speeds. Simply a matter of tweaking....which you hate







but it's so much fun!!!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


well atleast you know now that it will boot in at those speeds. Simply a matter of tweaking....which you hate







but it's so much fun!!!


Lol, no its not fun. I'm attempting stock timings and all that...just like my last run. However with that thingy disabled you just told me to. Will update if it fails. If it fails, I'll go back to my previous settings of 200MHz until told what to do next, lol.

EDIT: JUST FAILED 2.5 MINUTES IN!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Lol, no its not fun. I'm attempting stock timings and all that...just like my last run. However with that thingy disabled you just told me to. Will update if it fails. If it fails, I'll go back to my previous settings of 200MHz until told what to do next, lol.

EDIT: JUST FAILED 2.5 MINUTES IN!



hmmm....I'll need to know all of the current timings to know what may be holding you back. Type that out for me and I'll take a look when I get home from work tonight. In the mean time set it back to stable. Same Bat time,same Bat channel


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


hmmm....I'll need to know all of the current timings to know what may be holding you back. Type that out for me and I'll take a look when I get home from work tonight. In the mean time set it back to stable. Same Bat time,same Bat channel


Alright, here's what I've got STABLE:

133 divider (auto set only...if i manually set=fail)
2,3,2,6,1T
2.90v
makes 200MHz with the above timings

What I've tried:

250FSB
1:1 ratio
3,3,2,8,2T (stock timings)
2.90 - 3.3v...nothing worked
Made DDR500 (250MHz).
failed

312FSB
166 divider (manually set, auto goes to 133)
3,3,2,8,2T (stock timings, manually set)
2.90v...any more proved to be too much heat
Made 255MHz DDR510, failed

Tried the same as above with 3,5,5,10,2T
nothing else changed
failed.

Those are the only settings I've ever tweaked with. Anything above 2.90v proved to be too much heat. I MAY have damaged the chips with the 3.3v...however they have NEVER worked properly. Anything past 233MHz, they fail. Doesn't matter timings or anything that I know to set. It MAY be a sub timing issue, or the timings thingy in my jumperfree...its set to 450 auto set. I'm unsure what it is though, lol. But I've played with the normal timings and all the voltages, dividers, FSB speeds...nothing works past 233MHz from what I've tinkered with. It just ticks me off, lol. Hence why I've been running them completely auto set till this last OC attempt...where I finally set them to somewhat tighter timings, but everything else still auto.

For some odd reason, my auto settings always WORK just fine and prove stable. Its when I start to tweak the settings myself is when it starts to fail. Go figure!


----------



## Poser

*Pioneer, Guadian, Blitz... my fellow RAM wranglers:

I think I have a made a significant breakthrough (with much help, suggestions and advice) in the my personal ram dilemma. The following 4 settings have had a great deal of influence on the ability to POST, Boot into vista and gain stability:

Tref: there is a great chart you can find @ xtreme and/or DIY forums mapping out the Tref rates accross several intervals (100,133,166, 200mhz and 1.95, 3.9, 7.8 and 15.6us) created by Dracula. The chart was made for NF4 LP boards, but is universal in its information. Remember, this parameter sets the rate at which a cell is "re-charged" so its data does not decay... and can be either too loose or tight, preventing stability and/or boot

DRAM drive strength: This controls the strength of the memory bus' signal strength. The settings are either normal (even values) or weak (odd values) with the higher numbers either indicating a weak value close to normal, or a normal value at the highest level of strength

DRAM data drive strength: (lvl 1-4): This is used to boost the signal strength of the memoru data line. From my reading, the higher density your ICs, (i.e. dual sided dimm) the greater the signal strength needed at higher clocks. The levels are used to reduce strength, 1 being the weakest and 4 being the strongest. (I found lvl 3 best for me)

Max Async Latency: For me this has proved the holy grail of settings to stabilize 4gb dimm with the a64 IMC There is very limited information I have found regarding this setting, but from what I have garnered, this setting controls the asynchronous latency from the data line being pumped from the processors IMC to the furthest (physical location) DIMM on your board. In plain english, it controls the data pump traffic (like a crossing guard) to allow data to reach the furthest DIMM before issuing another signal. (this could be completely wrong







, so I take no responsiblity....nor am I an expert of any kind in anything other than nose picking). By relaxing my MAL to 11ns I am currently priming with the settings you can observe below:









Unbelievable, I know. Before I couldn't even boot into DDR320.... now I am priming at my previous most stable overclock @ DDR486. Should this pass all tests, I might even up the vCore and try for a DDR500 24/7 stable on air 3.0ghz OC with 4GB RAM!!!!!!

I also may re-experiment with just 2gigs to see what kind of craziness I can get...shattering previous overclocks.

NOTE: upping your MAL, will get you stable at higher clocks....but at the cost of latency and max bandwidth

ALSO: I don't care what anyone tells you ... there is a huge performance difference between 4gb and 2gb in vista. While priming, I could barely surf the web with 2gb. Now, I have multiple browsers open, foobar running, priming and don't even notice a hitch in my system....just saying
*


----------



## jizzleh2

hey what's up s939'ers!
i would like to join the socket939 club. although i run a low end athlon 64 +3200 @ stock 2.0ghz

but i got a pretty awesome motherboard that was "supposedly" to be great on overclocking!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jizzleh2*


hey what's up s939'ers!
i would like to join the socket939 club. although i run a low end athlon 64 +3200 @ stock 2.0ghz

but i got a pretty awesome motherboard that was "supposedly" to be great on overclocking!










Welcome to our little club! Just provide a CPUz validation link or a screenshot, and txtmstrjoe will add you to the roster once he's online







. And yes, you have a GREAT motherboard for 939!


----------



## AMOCO

here is my 939 socket::::::::::::;


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jizzleh2*


hey what's up s939'ers!
i would like to join the socket939 club. although i run a low end athlon 64 +3200 @ stock 2.0ghz

but i got a pretty awesome motherboard that was "supposedly" to be great on overclocking!










yah tahts a good board! only think to beat me and pioneerisloud's a8n32-sli haha. maybe..... good luck at oc'ing if you really decide to









Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Welcome to our little club! Just provide a CPUz validation link or a screenshot, and txtmstrjoe will add you to the roster once he's online







. And yes, you have a GREAT motherboard for 939!


what he said.. LOL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMOCO*


here is my 939 socket::::::::::::;


oOo good start! keep goin


----------



## GuardianOdin

Poser...resize partna! That pic is huge


----------



## timxirish

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jizzleh2*


hey what's up s939'ers!
i would like to join the socket939 club. although i run a low end athlon 64 +3200 @ stock 2.0ghz

but i got a pretty awesome motherboard that was "supposedly" to be great on overclocking!










It definitely is. It's the big brother (mother?) of the board I've got, and hell yes they're awesome. I didn't want/need SLI though, so I went with the Ultra-D version.. Though if I ever want SLI, there's a simple mod you can do to the Ultra-D's chipset (Bridge two small solder points. Piece of cake.).

Anyway, Poser, I have a feeling that's going to be a very valuable piece of info for myself. I'm a FSB OC nub so far, but going at lengths to study up and learn the art in detail. Much thanks for the post.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hey dudes and dudette, y'all have been busy in my absence! AWESOME to see!

A quick run-down:

Welcome to AMOCO! You've been added to the roster!









@ PROBYN4LYF: Which CPU-Z validation would you like me to use? (If you wish, you can use more than one.) I've found you on hwbot.org, but you have a long list of validations.









Finally, my new nephew Alex was born tonight @ 9:17 p.m.! Twenty-two minutes short of being blessed (cursed?) with the middle name "Opteron" (yes, iandroo, pioneer and I are certifiably crazy), but that's close enough. Truth be told, I wish he was born earlier; I would've seen him after being born. As it is, though, I had to go on home because I have to go to work tomorrow.

I'll see him and the rest of my family after work, though.

By the way, if he wants to, he can learn S939 overclocking from me. I have at least one pristine S939 DFI and about a half-dozen CPUs he can learn with...


----------



## TestECull

Lolol, throw my Venice onto your list and congrats on the baby.

...

Willing to trade a working 939 dual for a Venice he can molest?


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Hey dudes and dudette, y'all have been busy in my absence! AWESOME to see!

A quick run-down:

Welcome to AMOCO! You've been added to the roster!









@ PROBYN4LYF: Which CPU-Z validation would you like me to use? (If you wish, you can use more than one.) I've found you on hwbot.org, but you have a long list of validations.









Finally, my new nephew Alex was born tonight @ 9:17 p.m.! Twenty-two minutes short of being blessed (cursed?) with the middle name "Opteron" (yes, iandroo, pioneer and I are certifiably crazy), but that's close enough. Truth be told, I wish he was born earlier; I would've seen him after being born. As it is, though, I had to go on home because I have to go to work tomorrow.

I'll see him and the rest of my family after work, though.

By the way, if he wants to, he can learn S939 overclocking from me. I have at least one pristine S939 DFI and about a half-dozen CPUs he can learn with...











Weee pioneer is the head b(o)(o)b and certifiably crazy. im just certifiably crazy. lol..

lol i wonder if u will still have all your 939 stuff when hes like 12.. and able to learn this stuff


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


Lolol, throw my Venice onto your list and congrats on the baby.

...

Willing to trade a working 939 dual for a Venice he can molest?










You're looking for a dual core to molest? If so...once my current trade arrives and works out, I'd be more than happy to trade you my X2 Manny for a single core. I haven't really tried to OC a single core 939 yet, might be fun to give it a try....although I'm more interested in something that can run at stock speeds and undervolted to save heat. Whatever I end up using will be going into my HTPC rig....so heat gets built up REALLY quickly.

Either way...welcome to the new members! You'll have fun, the Boobteron promises







.

txtmstrjoe! Congrats!!!! Hey LOOK!







Oh nevermind, that smiley's just too easy







! Can't wait to hear when you get this Alex guy up and overclockin' 939's!!!!! Trust me, I'll still be around...I'm hanging onto this socket for a while. Its treated me well this far. If worst comes to it, I'll be using one as a server or HTPC rig or something. I'll probably stick with 939 for some years to go still







.


----------



## GuardianOdin

HOLY CRAP!!


----------



## dskina

I'm liking that fsb


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


You're looking for a dual core to molest? If so...once my current trade arrives and works out, I'd be more than happy to trade you my X2 Manny for a single core.


About that trade... When is that numbskull going to be sending you all that loot he promised you?

You know what, though? He told me that he'll get around to doing that pretty soon. He also told me that he'll let you know once it's on it's way.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


Weee pioneer is the head b(o)(o)b and certifiably crazy. im just certifiably crazy. lol..

lol i wonder if u will still have all your 939 stuff when hes like 12.. and able to learn this stuff


He and his brothers will learn from me, if they want to get into the dark art.

His older brother Jacob, who turns four next month, will likely be smart enough to design a killer platform like S939 when he grows up (and if he wants to do that kind of thing). He's certainly got the brains for it...

Will I have S939 parts around when my nephews (and hopefully, my own children) are old enough to be interested in overclocking? Hmm... probably.

@ Guardian: Well done with that! Keep at it!


----------



## Poser

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Poser...resize partna! That pic is huge










Thats what she said.... (sorry, I couldn't help myself)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *timxirish*


Anyway, Poser, I have a feeling that's going to be a very valuable piece of info for myself. I'm a FSB OC nub so far, but going at lengths to study up and learn the art in detail. Much thanks for the post.


Best of luck sir... I would love to share anything I have that can aide you in the pursuit of nuking your s939...

...lord knows I am trying my best









@Lord Scorpion... congrats to you and your family sir.









EDIT: Yahtze.... look at the number of posts I now have


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
About that trade... When is that numbskull going to be sending you all that loot he promised you?

You know what, though? He told me that he'll get around to doing that pretty soon. He also told me that he'll let you know once it's on it's way.

He and his brothers will learn from me, if they want to get into the dark art.

His older brother Jacob, who turns four next month, will likely be smart enough to design a killer platform like S939 when he grows up (and if he wants to do that kind of thing). He's certainly got the brains for it...

Will I have S939 parts around when my nephews (and hopefully, my own children) are old enough to be interested in overclocking? Hmm... probably.

@ Guardian: Well done with that! Keep at it!









Thanks Joe and congratz!!!!

I almost feel dirty because my RAM is so sexy


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Poser* 

EDIT: Yahtze.... look at the number of posts I now have










*MUST... TAKE... SCREENSHOT!*


----------



## GuardianOdin




----------



## pioneerisloud

@ Guardian - If that RAM is stable at those insane speeds, u wanna trade, lol? Hey it was worth a shot, right!

@ txtmstrjoe - Well make the knucklehead hurry, lol j/k. Glad to hear your nephews/whatever got ur brains.

You guys are making me SOO jealous! I can only dream of my RAM running at even stock speeds! Let alone overclocked! Oh well, DDR400 with 500 sticks it is for now!


----------



## Poser

ahhh a thing of beauty indeed


----------



## Poser

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
@ Guardian - If that RAM is stable at those insane speeds, u wanna trade, lol? Hey it was worth a shot, right!

@ txtmstrjoe - Well make the knucklehead hurry, lol j/k. Glad to hear your nephews/whatever got ur brains.

You guys are making me SOO jealous! I can only dream of my RAM running at even stock speeds! Let alone overclocked! Oh well, DDR400 with 500 sticks it is for now!

loosen up you MAL, and check your Tref, DDS and DDDS... you can easily hit DDR500... I feel it


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
@ Guardian - If that RAM is stable at those insane speeds, u wanna trade, lol? Hey it was worth a shot, right!

@ txtmstrjoe - Well make the knucklehead hurry, lol j/k. Glad to hear your nephews/whatever got ur brains.

You guys are making me SOO jealous! I can only dream of my RAM running at even stock speeds! Let alone overclocked! Oh well, DDR400 with 500 sticks it is for now!

it's stable like peg leg'ed street hooker







I lowered it and am going to do a Orthos run at DDR574 tonight


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Poser* 
loosen up you MAL, and check your Tref, DDS and DDDS... you can easily hit DDR500... I feel it

Huh? Lol, I have absolutely NO clue what you just said, lol. Nor would I even have a CLUE as to what these settings are currently at, lol. All I know is that its currently at 200MHz @ 2,3,2,6,1T, 2.90v. Lol, sad huh? I know quite a bit about getting the most outta the CPU, but NOTHING about the RAM side of the story, lol. Go figure!

Also, I just noticed your sig. pioneer is wonky in the head huh? Nice touch! Touche` sir!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Also, I just noticed your sig. pioneer is wonky in the head huh? Nice touch! Touche` sir!

LOL! good sir,I believe we all noticed before you did. hehe


----------



## Poser

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Huh? Lol, I have absolutely NO clue what you just said, lol. Nor would I even have a CLUE as to what these settings are currently at, lol. All I know is that its currently at 200MHz @ 2,3,2,6,1T, 2.90v. Lol, sad huh? I know quite a bit about getting the most outta the CPU, but NOTHING about the RAM side of the story, lol. Go figure!

Also, I just noticed your sig. pioneer is wonky in the head huh? Nice touch! Touche` sir!

You should find those discrete timings under your DRAM configuration page, I remember seeing some screens of the A8N32's BIOS pages and I recall seeing a pretty extensive list RAM settings.

MAL = Max Async Latency
DDS = DRAM Drive Strength
DDDS = DRAM Data Drive Strength

loosening these will go a long way to getting you stable @ DDR500 at 1t to boot.

I'll do some digging and see what I can find about your OCZplats and the ASUS mobo...

Also... I was going to put pioneer is the cat's pajamas in my sig, but I didnt want people (read: froggy) to get the wrong idea


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
LOL! good sir,I believe we all noticed before you did. hehe









Hey now! I never once said that I didn't agree with his sig. I just said that I just now noticed it. Go figure...his sig (if I could see it ATM) should be QFT!
















- I just found this smiley. Ironically enough, it looks a LOT like me! -


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hmm...

Guardian, do you realize what you're doing posting all this helpful information about RAM settings?

You're making me want to re-do my gaming rig's overclock! :swearing:

I went







getting this thing rock-24/7-stable at sub-DDR500 settings for the RAM, and now you've re-lit the spark that might make me want to have this RAM run 1:1 with the HTT clock.

Do I dare take the plunge and sacrifice my hard-won stability..?


----------



## pioneerisloud

YES YOU WANT TO TXTMSTRJOE!!!!









Hmm, 1:1 would be quite nice. Could my OCZ handle it though







? Meh, probably not. Oh well....I'm perfectly content where I'm at. If one of you RAM gurus wants to give me a helping hand on AIM or other messenger perhaps (some other time though since I'm headed to bed now)...I would NOT complain any at all







. I'd give you IM reps as well...if that counts for anything







.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Hmm...

Guardian, do you realize what you're doing posting all this helpful information about RAM settings?

You're making me want to re-do my gaming rig's overclock! :swearing:

I went







getting this thing rock-24/7-stable at sub-DDR500 settings for the RAM, and now you've re-lit the spark that might make me want to have this RAM run 1:1 with the HTT clock.

Do I dare take the plunge and sacrifice my hard-won stability..?









just write down your current settings, easy as pi Hmmm...maybe I'll try 1:1 I still can't believe this RAM is booting in at these crazy speeds. I wonder if I can hit DDR600









Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 







YES YOU WANT TO TXTMSTRJOE!!!!









Hmm, 1:1 would be quite nice. Could my OCZ handle it though







? Meh, probably not. Oh well....I'm perfectly content where I'm at. If one of you RAM gurus wants to give me a helping hand on AIM or other messenger perhaps (some other time though since I'm headed to bed now)...I would NOT complain any at all







. I'd give you IM reps as well...if that counts for anything







.

I'm off work Tuesday! I'll shoot ya a PM


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 







YES YOU WANT TO TXTMSTRJOE!!!!









Hmm, 1:1 would be quite nice. Could my OCZ handle it though







? Meh, probably not. Oh well....I'm perfectly content where I'm at. If one of you RAM gurus wants to give me a helping hand on AIM or other messenger perhaps (some other time though since I'm headed to bed now)...I would NOT complain any at all







. I'd give you IM reps as well...if that counts for anything







.

Actually, my RAM *can* run 1:1 with the HTT clock up to 280MHz (DDR560). I was ready to lock those settings in when I discovered a nasty bug inherent in my RAM's IC's: At such high speeds, they get really 3-D unstable. Not a good thing for a gaming rig...

vwgti actually turned me on to a modded BIOS for this board (A8N32-SLI Deluxe) that worked really well for him (he's got the same RAM and board) which added the needed BIOS options to cure that 3-D instability, but I've never flashed to that modded BIOS.

Maybe I'm too pioneer chicken..?









EDIT: Poser, my man, you ALSO deserve much kudos for your RAM findings/contributions! Well done, sir!


----------



## GuardianOdin

baaaawwwk bawk bawk bawk baaaaawk!!!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
baaaawwwk bawk bawk bawk baaaaawk!!!

HOLY deja vu, Batman!

We used to do that to pioneer in days long gone!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
just write down your current settings, easy as pi Hmmm...maybe I'll try 1:1 I still can't believe this RAM is booting in at these crazy speeds. I wonder if I can hit DDR600









*I'm off work Tuesday! I'll shoot ya a PM*

What a coincidence, I'm off work Tuesday too!!! Great!

I remember those days as well txtmstrjoe. Fun times, fun times.....boobteron FTW!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
HOLY deja vu, Batman!

We used to do that to pioneer in days long gone!









I believe he's sleeping,BUT wait till he wkes up!!!! and I'm always glad to help reminisce








*
EDIT:* DOH! HE'S AWAKE!

*EDIT Twice:* Ok off to bed. Laterz


----------



## StormX2

wish i had better ram for my beast
i dont like crazy dividers liek i have to run =(


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *StormX2* 
wish i had better ram for my beast
i dont like crazy dividers liek i have to run =(

you have some great options with that Mobo!


----------



## timxirish

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Poser* 
Best of luck sir... I would love to share anything I have that can aide you in the pursuit of nuking your s939...

...lord knows I am trying my best









Heh, right on. Sadly I won't be tweaking until I can boot back into Windows (just a preference).. Went from single core to dual core.. I should have known that would cause problems with XP. It's funny, because I made it into XP on my first boot with it. Problems occured after a ballon notification came up, stating that it found the second core of my CPU and needed to reboot from the hardware changes. Then I can't boot into XP, and it's time to reinstall. Fedora 8 had no problem with a second CPU.

...And they say dual boot machines are more trouble than they're worth.


----------



## Blitz6804

The question I have: who is really the RAM God?

GuardianOdin running his DDR 500 at DDR 584?

Or Poser being the first in the thread to not only get 4x1024 DDR 400 to run as marked, but instead, run it at DDR 486!

The second I get my motherboard back I am going to be trying the fixes Poser posted (if available to me) that I can finally have my RAM running as they should be. The question is, if they work that fast, is it better to be 1:1 with a 2.75 GHz processor, or be 2:1.66 with a 3.00 GHz processor... I doubt I can get the former (DDR 544), but the later may (haha) be doable (DDR 454).

Whatever the case, my hat is off to you Poser. If my MoBo was here, you still would have beaten me to the prize. *Adds to Rep.* Come on everyone, lets give him a big round of applause!

*Half a cheer for Poser! Hip-hip HU!* (Kudos to all who remember what game this is from.)


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


vwgti actually turned me on to a modded BIOS for this board (A8N32-SLI Deluxe) that worked really well for him (he's got the same RAM and board) which added the needed BIOS options to cure that 3-D instability, but I've never flashed to that modded BIOS.

Maybe I'm too pioneer chicken..?










Discretion is the better part of valor txtmstrjoe. Believe me, if I could do it again, I never would have touched the BIOS. On the other hand, since the BIOS is blanked, it finally encouraged me to send it for repair rather than tolerating its quirks.

BUT THE POINT STILL STANDS!

Only touch the BIOS if you are willing to go more than a month without the Motherboard. If you do not have another computer *dies laughing* then I certainly would not consider it. If you have a RAID, back up all your data before attempting it just in case it does die. That is the worst part for me. I never got around to backing up the data once I got the new laptop. I always have my laptop running a copy of everything the desktop has and vice versa, but after two months of having the laptop, I was still too lazy to do it. Now look where I am...

I just hope to hell the repaired (new?) motherboard will still be able to read my RAID 0, or I am totally ........


----------



## Poser

Quote:



Originally Posted by *timxirish*


Heh, right on. Sadly I won't be tweaking until I can boot back into Windows (just a preference).. Went from single core to dual core.. I should have known that would cause problems with XP. It's funny, because I made it into XP on my first boot with it. Problems occured after a ballon notification came up, stating that it found the second core of my CPU and needed to reboot from the hardware changes. Then I can't boot into XP, and it's time to reinstall. Fedora 8 had no problem with a second CPU.

...And they say dual boot machines are more trouble than they're worth.










TIM, you definitely need to check this out, XP needs an MS hotfix and AMD drivers to properly utilize a dual core CPU.

Hope that helps

@blitz, thank you sir for your kind words. Still trying to push the envelope...will let you know results (10+ hrs prime stable)


----------



## MjrTom

Here is my offering: http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc?id=163978

My system spec rig clocked to 3.1GHz on air


----------



## Blitz6804

Nice Poser... I think it is about time to upgrade your sig rig now, although, I am not trying to jinx you.

And timxirish, I concur with Poser. I have had a dual-core in my XP system for over a year, and the drivers/hotfix make it as stable as a single-core.

As to Vista: supposedly only Ultimate supports a dual-core processor. All versions of Vista will use dual-cores for their applications, but only Vista can run dual-core for Vista itself. The real kicker is: the feature is turned off by default! I turned it on (and shut off GUI boot) to cut boot times on my laptop from 3 minutes to about 90 seconds. To wit:

<Windows Key> + <R>
Type "msconfig"
<Enter>
Click "Continue"
Click the "Boot" tab
Check "No GUI Boot"
Click "Advanced options..."
Check "Number of Processors"
Select the number you have from the drop down menu
Click "Ok"
Click "Ok"
Windows will tell you to reboot, do so
Upon restarting, you will see "Windows has blocked some startup programs"
Right-click and select "Run blocked programs > msconfig"
In the window that pops up, check "Do not run msconfig at startup"
Click "Ok"
Enjoy your new-found speed.

I do not know if anyone else here has Vista and noticed it being sluggish, but just in case, you have the above information. Note please, even with the fix, Vista is still slower than Experience.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
The question I have: who is really the RAM God?

GuardianOdin running his DDR 500 at DDR 584?

Or Poser being the first in the thread to not only get 4x1024 DDR 400 to run as marked, but instead, run it at DDR 486!

The second I get my motherboard back I am going to be trying the fixes Poser posted (if available to me) that I can finally have my RAM running as they should be. The question is, if they work that fast, is it better to be 1:1 with a 2.75 GHz processor, or be 2:1.66 with a 3.00 GHz processor... I doubt I can get the former (DDR 544), but the later may (haha) be doable (DDR 454).

Whatever the case, my hat is off to you Poser. If my MoBo was here, you still would have beaten me to the prize. *Adds to Rep.* Come on everyone, lets give him a big round of applause!

*Half a cheer for Poser! Hip-hip HU!* (Kudos to all who remember what game this is from.)

Poser for the win! I never had any luck with four sticks.


----------



## Blitz6804

Maybe now you will Guardian? You certainly should try it.

And if not, perhaps you'd be willing to buy me two of the 2x1024 Mushkin Redline DDR500s.

Please? Its only $380, and I would send you some of the RAM I have. (EDIT: I found a place I've not heard of before, AxionTech, who would sell me the same thing for only $340... can I have your wallet now? LOL)

Side bar: Buffalo weather is almost as strange as the Long Island weather I grew up with. We got about six inches of snow over the past week. Today, it is 60Âº F (15.5Âº C for the metrically inclined) outside! What makes it all the more confusing is that tonight is supposed to be 29Âº F (-1.6Âº C) with sleet going into tomorrow. Fun times...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
<Windows Key> + <R>
Type "msconfig"
<Enter>
Click "Continue"
Click the "Boot" tab
Check "No GUI Boot"
Click "Advanced options..."
Check "Number of Processors"
Select the number you have from the drop down menu
Click "Ok"
Click "Ok"
Windows will tell you to reboot, do so
Upon restarting, you will see "Windows has blocked some startup programs"
Right-click and select "Run blocked programs > msconfig"
In the window that pops up, check "Do not run msconfig at startup"
Click "Ok"
Enjoy your new-found speed.

Blitz, good suggestion for the No GUI Boot. I've had that option checked in my XP install for a while. I think it cuts off like a second or two for my rig


----------



## Blitz6804

It makes a bigger difference in Vista (to the tune of about 15-30 seconds).


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
It makes a bigger difference in Vista (to the tune of about 15-30 seconds).

Blitz, that's pretty amazing if you ask me. Sad that the splash screen robs that much time after POST.


----------



## MjrTom

Yeah, im running XP but the dual core fix helped my stability no end


----------



## Gothic Case

I didn't notice any difference after aplying the AMD Dual Core Drivers/Patches/Hot fixes.... but I end up installing them anyway...

Got my opty 165 topless today! 10ÂºC colder under full load! Really worth a try! Should try breaking the 3.3GHz tonight!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gothic Case*


Got my opty 165 topless today! 10ÂºC colder under full load! Really worth a try! Should try breaking the 3.3GHz tonight!


Gothic, congrats man!


----------



## MjrTom

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gothic Case*


I didn't notice any difference after aplying the AMD Dual Core Drivers/Patches/Hot fixes.... but I end up installing them anyway...

Got my opty 165 topless today! 10ÂºC colder under full load! Really worth a try! Should try breaking the 3.3GHz tonight!


Since our rigs are about as comparable as possible (our CPU are nearly from the same batch!) you are tempting me to improve upon my 3.1GHz top overclock







good going buddy


----------



## iandroo888

how do you take off that heatspreader anyway?


----------



## Blitz6804

very, VERY, carefully. While I have not yet done it myself, I heard that you put the chip in your freezer for about 10 minutes. Then you carefully insert a razor or box cutter not more than 6mm under the heat spreader. Remove it, and insert it again slightly further over. Once you have gone all the way around, flip the chip over and hope the heat spreader falls off. If not, it is probably soldered. Ask others how to fix it at that point.

Note please: I will not be held liable for any damage done to your chip. What you are doing is definitely voiding the warranty.

I have been tempted to lap my chip/heat sink, but fear of screwing it up has prevented me from doing so.


----------



## thlnk3r

Good explanation Blitz. Iandroo, be very careful and make sure to not hit the little IC's that are next to the DIE. Perhaps Joe can also explain the process...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Welcome, MjrTom! Glad to have you here.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


how do you take off that heatspreader anyway?


With a sharp blade (a box-cutter blade works best from all that I've tried), a steady hand, and some bravery and care on your part.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I have been tempted to lap my chip/heat sink, but fear of screwing it up has prevented me from doing so.

Lapping is by far much safer than removing the top of the chip. Just a little know how and patience is involved.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Lapping is by far much safer than removing the top of the chip. Just a little know how and patience is involved.

Bragging rights lol:


----------



## Blitz6804

Would someone be willing to do it for me? Unfortunately, you would need to pay for shipping or for airfare. Just think: MORE bragging rights!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Bragging rights lol:










ahhh..pretty.Keep it secret,keep it safe!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Would someone be willing to do it for me? Unfortunately, you would need to pay for shipping or for airfare. Just think: MORE bragging rights!

Blitz, shipping would probably be extremely cheap since it's just a processor. If anyone is willing to help you out then that is definitely a +1 rep


----------



## jizzleh2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *timxirish* 
It definitely is. It's the big brother (mother?) of the board I've got, and hell yes they're awesome. I didn't want/need SLI though, so I went with the Ultra-D version.. Though if I ever want SLI, there's a simple mod you can do to the Ultra-D's chipset (Bridge two small solder points. Piece of cake.).

Anyway, Poser, I have a feeling that's going to be a very valuable piece of info for myself. I'm a FSB OC nub so far, but going at lengths to study up and learn the art in detail. Much thanks for the post.

haha thanks. yea i did also research before i bought it used for 60 bucks.
and found that its one of the best socket 939 motherboards out there.
But right now, i dont plan on oc'ing, but if i do get extra parts, i will try it out.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz, shipping would probably be extremely cheap since it's just a processor. If anyone is willing to help you out then that is definitely a +1 rep









And my CNPS9500LED. That sucker is a good pound or two I think.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
And my CNPS9500LED. That sucker is a good pound or two I think.

Forgot you wanted that lapped


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah... if you lap one, you should lap both, or what is the point?

An update, it weighs 900 mg, that is, 1 lb 15.7 oz.

Everyone just think of the admiration you would get for helping out someone inept when it comes to handling minor details! Imagine the throngs of women* who would worship your every step! You could become a household name like Wendel!

* Your results will vary...

And unless I am mistaken thlnk3r, the Triangulum Galaxy is only about a forty-minute drive to Buffalo, NY!


----------



## TestECull

Long live 939!







Found mah CPU-Z link, must have forgot to poast it earlier: http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=255566


----------



## timxirish

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Poser*


TIM, you definitely need to check this out, XP needs an MS hotfix and AMD drivers to properly utilize a dual core CPU.

Hope that helps


Well I've slipstreamed XP and all hotfixes up to Feb. 4th '08, so the hotfix should be there on install. If for some strange reason it isn't, I'll visit that link and grab it. Wasn't aware of the drivers though, so thank you.


----------



## Blitz6804

Would anyone be interested in a Hard drive cooler? I ordered it from Newegg and subsequently decided I did not want it. I contacted them, and they gave me the tracking number and told me to refuse shipment. I left a note for UPS today, and they delivered it anyway because Newegg gave me the wrong tracking number. I contacted Newegg again, and the transcript is as follows:

NE: "Thank you for contacting Newegg. My name is Sieg. How may I assist you today?"
KG: "I was supposed to refuse shipment on Order 676#####. I left a message for UPS, but they delivered the package anyway since the Tracking Number you provided me was incorrect. I need to have this package returned now and need the best way to do it."
NE: "The best way for you to save your valuable time, you do not need to return it to us. I will issue a credit in the amount of $24.99 back onto your Visa Card for this inconvenience." *
KG: "But how do I return the product to you? I do not need it."
NE: "You may simply keep it or throw it away."
KG: "Alright. I thank you for your time."
NE: "You are welcome. Please allow your credit card issuer approximately 3-5 business days to fully process the transaction and make the funds available."

Anyone who would be interested in this product, please contact me. All I need is for you to pay for shipping to you, and it is yours.

* I paid $30.83 after shipping, but I will not hold the giftee liable for the $5.84 I will be short.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
And unless I am mistaken thlnk3r, the Triangulum Galaxy is only about a forty-minute drive to Buffalo, NY!

Blitz, I live in a different triangulum galaxy


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Welcome to TestECull! You are the next contestant on "The Price is..."

Oops.

Anyway, glad to have you here. I'm sure you'll have a ball here.

Nyuk nyuk nyuk


----------



## iandroo888

^ lol.


----------



## Blitz6804

That is a horrible pun, and yet, for some strange reason, I laughed anyway.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
very, VERY, carefully. While I have not yet done it myself, I heard that you put the chip in your freezer for about 10 minutes. Then you carefully insert a razor or box cutter not more than 6mm under the heat spreader. Remove it, and insert it again slightly further over. Once you have gone all the way around, flip the chip over and hope the heat spreader falls off. If not, it is probably soldered. Ask others how to fix it at that point.

Note please: I will not be held liable for any damage done to your chip. What you are doing is definitely voiding the warranty.

I have been tempted to lap my chip/heat sink, but fear of screwing it up has prevented me from doing so.

you just copied that form a website huh. cuz i looked for info about it on google and thats what exactly it said.. except a longer description.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Would someone be willing to do it for me? Unfortunately, you would need to pay for shipping or for airfare. Just think: MORE bragging rights!

hmm.. to lap or to rape? Lap = shiny finish. Rape = taking the dang IHS off









Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
That is a horrible pun, and yet, for some strange reason, I laughed anyway.

lol.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
hmm.. to lap or to rape? Lap = shiny finish. Rape = taking the dang IHS off









Iandroo, for a second there I wasn't to sure what you were talking about


----------



## iandroo888

i started a random thread in the AMD CPU topic.

the "Unofficial" AMD OC Club.. i saw the 1ghz oc club but noticed it was under intel. i wanted to get somethin goin to show them what AMD has to offer XD lol

http://www.overclock.net/amd-cpus/30...d-oc-club.html


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz, I live in a different triangulum galaxy









It was meant as a joke begging you to visit and lap my CPU/HSF or to consent to ship it.


----------



## boonie2

fellow 939rs just bought a 4800+ from ebay waitng for it to arrive so i can try n tickle it to 3.0 ..... wish me luck .....


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


fellow 939rs just bought a 4800+ from ebay waitng for it to arrive so i can try n tickle it to 3.0 ..... wish me luck .....


Good luck with that, boonie!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


It was meant as a joke begging you to visit and lap my CPU/HSF or to consent to ship it.


Blitz, I'm willing to lap it for you if you would like but shipping and sand paper would run a little high in price. Time wise I don't mind, I usually watch TV when I'm lapping


----------



## iandroo888

lol i got bored just now and removed the IHS on a 4600+ LOL. its NEKKID now


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
lol i got bored just now and removed the IHS on a 4600+ LOL. its NEKKID now























I'll be a meanie and say that favorite of OCNisms:

*Pics, or it didn't happen!*


----------



## iandroo888

oh was charging battery. should be able to take the pictures soon


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I'll be a meanie and say that favorite of OCNisms:

*Pics, or it didn't happen!*










ewwww....pulled the pic's







card.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
ewwww....pulled the pic's







card.









Here, just to encourage iandroo, I'll show you some examples of beautiful topless nakedness.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Here, just to encourage iandroo, I'll show you some examples of beautiful topless nakedness.


nice!

Maybe when I upgrade to AM2+ I'll have the brass to go naked on my Opty,but right now I can't risk it becuase I use my PC for work.


----------



## timxirish

So hot right now...

Oh and also, txtmstrjoe, totally reminded me of this: 










Anyway, finally found my CD wallet, so I'm off to reinstall XP (it's the only option i have now in terms of fixing :-\\). Good news is, once it's up and running, I'll start crankin' dat Opty







. Install should go quick though... 10k rpm drive.. Still will take a while.. Browse OCN or play Viva Pinata? Hmm...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


nice!

Maybe when I upgrade to AM2+ I'll have the brass to go naked on my Opty,but right now I can't risk it becuase I use my PC for work.


Pssst.

Let me quote a wise man for my reply:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


baaaawwwk bawk bawk bawk baaaaawk!!!


*Flawless victory*.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Pssst.

Let me quote a wise man for my reply:

*Flawless victory*.











MORTAL KOMBAT!!!!


----------



## pioneerisloud

@txtmstrjoe:
Those pictures man....pron for the computer geek! Man those pics really turned me on...is that wrong?

@blitz:
PM'd you about that cooler you're wanting to ditch. I can always use a new or better cooler







.

Welcome to any new members since I've been at work all day. I don't feel like going through the 4 pages of posts that I missed...I just kinda glanced, lol.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Here, just to encourage iandroo, I'll show you some examples of beautiful topless nakedness.


whod u make topless there? gonna take pictures now.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Roster updated.

Welcome, jizzleh2!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


whod u make topless there? gonna take pictures now.


Those are three naked Opterons, my friend.









(Tell pioneer to aim away from me, whatever he does.)


----------



## iandroo888

nekkidness! lol


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Naked chips FTW!


----------



## jizzleh2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Roster updated.

Welcome, jizzleh2!


thanks for accepting me!









hello fellow socket939 people!
















below is my cpuz screeny, just cuz i want a clickable link next to my name in the user list


----------



## txtmstrjoe

jizzleh2, you are now CLICKABLE on the roster!


----------



## iandroo888

hmm if we can get the members of this club to join my AMD OC club, plus the people who owns AM2's and other sockets, it would be SAHWEET! too bad no one posting in my AMD OC club


----------



## timxirish

iandroo: Working on it.. I'm having a hell of a time getting XP reinstalled on my PC though.







. I can't get into safe mode, nor can I boot normally. To make matters worse, I can't even boot from an XP setup CD (and yes, I am using an original). I can boot into my Fedora 8 install perfectly, just as well as I can boot linux live CDs... Really driving me nuts, because this shouldn't be this complicated. All it seems to do is give me the "Press any key to boot from CD..." line, and after that the next line says "Setup is detecting your hardware configuration" and goes to a black screen and stays there. Very irritating.


----------



## jizzleh2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *timxirish* 
iandroo: Working on it.. I'm having a hell of a time getting XP reinstalled on my PC though.







. I can't get into safe mode, nor can I boot normally. To make matters worse, I can't even boot from an XP setup CD (and yes, I am using an original). I can boot into my Fedora 8 install perfectly, just as well as I can boot linux live CDs... Really driving me nuts, because this shouldn't be this complicated. All it seems to do is give me the "Press any key to boot from CD..." line, and after that the next line says "Setup is detecting your hardware configuration" and goes to a black screen and stays there. Very irritating.

i had the same exact prob as you had, althought i forgot how i was able to fix it though, make sure to check jumpers on hard drive(s) and also check the boot order for your devices.


----------



## timxirish

Man, i've tried everything I can think of. Nothing is working at all. I'll try using a spare DVD drive (i've got 3 of them), but the drive seems to be pefectly fine if it can boot a linux live cd. I've set my bios to boot from a HD with NTLDR as the MBR, and set it to boot from a HD with GRUB as the MBR (which has an option to boot XP by passing the task on to NTLDR), and I've made sure in every scenario that my bios is set to boot from CD-ROM before anything else. Jumpers should be perfectly fine too, because I haven't touched them in years and installed fine mutiple times. I really don't understand why it's being so fussy.

I really want to strangle this machine now. :swearing:


----------



## Poser

@Tim...

if you wouldn't mind, list all the changes to your system that you have made since you last installed windows. Maybe we can spot something...


----------



## Blitz6804

I had a similar issue timxirish. You need to restore the MBR prior to Linux. The easiest way to do this is back up all your Linux data, and then use a live CD to repartition the entire drive.

A harder way to do that is look how to restore the original Windows MBR. Windows does not like be installed after Linux, but rather, the other way around.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *timxirish* 
All it seems to do is give me the "Press any key to boot from CD..." line, and after that the next line says "Setup is detecting your hardware configuration" and goes to a black screen and stays there. Very irritating.

Tim, have you tried copying the CD to another one? What is the condition of the media that contains the XP install? Have you tried a different optical drive? I found that different media (cd's) can sometimes be picky with certain optical drives. Is your system overclocked or on stock settings? Try disconnecting your secondary drives as well. Just keep the drive that will have the operating system connected. If you haven't already, I'd recommend running surface scans on each drive to look for bad sectors. You never know. For your WD drive use Western Digital's Lifeguard Tools and for your Seagate drives, run the Seatools.

Let us know what you find

Good luck


----------



## timxirish

As far as hardware changes go, there's the CPU, then before that I had removed a Pioneer DVR-111D (burner) and a Samsung SH-D162C (DVD-ROM) from my system to make the case lighter (for transportation to lan parties, etc).. Last time I could successfully install was barely before June '07. I should also note that my XP HD does have NTLDR in the MBR. I would have it no other way. GRUB is installed on my third sata drive and is configured to pass the ball to NTLDR if I choose to boot windows.

Now here's the weird part: I managed to get some random no GUI boot cd to load up Norton Ghost and restore from the bootable DVD I had (that I previously couldn't boot from). Image was restored fine, and I was able to boot into XP again, no issue. I applied the hotfix Poser linked me to, despite how it didn't seem quite right for my situation (but hey, I hoped for the best). After that, I reboot and I'm back to square one. Same ballon notification telling me it detected new hardware, and same "Windows needs to restart..." message. I redid the ghetto way to get ghost to boot and restored again. This time, I'm going to try installing XP instead of letting it load into a GUI and fubar me once again... But talk about a crazy PC issue. Never experienced anything like it until now.

Edit: No go. I'm starting to believe that the issue of booting into XP is seperate from booting from the XP cd issue, as I've just had ghost applied for the 2nd time and can't boot from an XP cd. Haven't booted into windows yet-- But I know I can. I'll be back to square one again if I boot into it and restart. I'm going to try a few other nf4 LP bioses from tmod's cd. Oh and I know.. eXpert and Venus are no-no's







.


----------



## thlnk3r

Tim, did you a different optical drive? Did you try any of the suggestions that were stated in my previous?

Good luck


----------



## timxirish

Well I tried multiple different media (tdk-- which i've used in the past, khypermedia, and some generic cd-rs laying around) including my offical XP professional CD and all are in great condition.. Still haven't taken out this DVD-/+R drive yet, but I am getting there (probably my next test.. I'll edit in my results briefly). I have tried Lifeguard (quick test) and it was completed without error. Tried different bioses, same result. In a bit I'm going to hop on aim (SN is my OCN name), so if anybody has a potential solution that hasn't been mentioned, shoot me a message.

Edit: As I figured, DVD drive was *not* the issue. Also I should add that I don't believe the MBR is the issue. I believe the norton ghost image I have overwrites the MBR, as I repaired a fubared xp install which also had a bad MBR by restoring to this master ghost image I made.. Still trying different thing out.

Edit2: With Maxtor and Seagate disconnected, still will not boot cd.

Edit3: Problem SOLVED. It was as simple as a bad IDE cable. I've got Windows XP setup's blue screen staring at me right now, so I'm going to go ahead with it. If all goes well I'll be able to boot into XP and be able to restart my PC with no worry. I can't believe it was the IDE cable. But hey, now I can focus my attention on oveclocking. Time to crank dat Opty.


----------



## Blitz6804

Update: My HDD drive bay cooler was gifted to Pioneerisloud, proving yet again he can never have too much stuff.

Also to update, I just received my Scythe Kama Bay Cooler and my Silverstone FM122-B today. Pity I cannot test it for you all, but I have it. I can say with some authority that the Scythe is a pain to install in my case (since it is tool less) and after doing so, there is a 2-3mm gap all the way around it. The fan in the cooler looks like it is cheapy made next to the Silverstone, but that does not mean it will have bad performance. For the record though, it is about half, maybe a quarter, of the weight of the Silverstone.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Update: My HDD drive bay cooler was gifted to Pioneerisloud, proving yet again he can never have too much stuff.

Psst. I think pioneer needs a new nickname:

"Moochie."


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Psst. I think pioneer needs a new nickname:

"Moochie."










That may or may not be a good nickname for the Boobteron. However I like my current nickname







. And when you're flat broke all the time, working minimum wage 24 hours a week to support 2 people.....you take all the handouts that you can find, lol. I paid the shipping for it. The seller always has the right to refuse service







. Don't ask me how I do things, cuz I really don't know, lol. It just is kinda happening for me lately. I'll go back to my funk soon enough, lol. I'm pretty sure I will.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Psst. I think pioneer needs a new nickname:

"Moochie."











He was not mooching. A moocher would be someone... well... like me. I have my hand out actively panhandling for things. Pioneerisloud was not actively looking, but instead, took up my offer for a "free" gift.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


He was not mooching. A moocher would be someone... well... like me. I have my hand out actively panhandling for things. Pioneerisloud was not actively looking, but instead, took up my offer for a "free" gift.


QFT, lol. I saw, so I jumped on it, lol. That's usually what I do when I end up with parts for cheap, lol.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I recant, then.

pioneer, I un-dub thee "Moochie." (He knows, though, that that was delivered fully in the spirit of fun and fraternity.

Right, pioneer..?)

I dub myself "Oopsie," for reckless nickname dispensing.


----------



## Blitz6804

For your hollow and baseless accusations, I hereby sentence you to a drive to Buffalo to lap my stuff!

*Laughs*

I cannot force you, but of course you are certainly welcome to. Did you know there are more bars in Buffalo per capita than any other city in the world?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
For your hollow and baseless accusations, I hereby sentence you to a drive to Buffalo to lap my stuff!

*Laughs*

I cannot force you, but of course you are certainly welcome to. Did you know there are more bars in Buffalo per capita than any other city in the world?

That's a LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOONG drive, from SoCal to Buffalo.









Will you foot the fuel bill?

Re: Buffalo Bars per Capita: I don't drink, but I guess it gets so cold over there y'all need the alky to keep warm during the winter.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
That's a LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOONG drive, from SoCal to Buffalo.









Will you foot the fuel bill?

Re: Buffalo Bars per Capita: I don't drink, but I guess it gets so cold over there y'all need the alky to keep warm during the winter.









Either that, or maybe perhaps to make the women appear better looking? Just kidding, just a joke, lol. Don't hate on me for that, lol.


----------



## Blitz6804

Nah, it does not get too cold. Yesterday was 65ÂºF for example. *Hides the 25ÂºF and 0.125" of ice presently on the ground.*

As to bars, unlike Long Island, where drinks are about $8 a pop, here they are $2-3 a piece.

Would you prefer to fly? I live about 5 minutes from the airport to pick you up.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Nah, it does not get too cold. Yesterday was 65ÂºF for example. *Hides the 25ÂºF and 0.125" of ice presently on the ground.*

As to bars, unlike Long Island, where drinks are about $8 a pop, here they are $2-3 a piece.

Would you prefer to fly? I live about 5 minutes from the airport to pick you up.

Oh, I don't mind the cold. In fact, I wish I live in a climate where I can wear my leather trench coat most of the year. (Definitely not SoCal.) I told my girlfriend we ought to live in Canada, in fact, but she said it's way too cold out there (she lives in Mississippi).

Cheap alcohol there! Maybe I ought to get hopping on designing that liquor-powered engine...









Flying would be good, too. I like flying.


----------



## Blitz6804

Jet Blue is about $150 each way between Long Beach and Buffalo. About $200 each way for San Diego. And yes, you can wear a leather trench coat in the winter, I do it myself.

However, you will not be wearing it most of the year. In the summer, as late as September in fact, temperatures can hit the 90s.

Oh, and for the record, I am about 30 minutes from the Canadian border. About 90 minutes to Toronto from here.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Jet Blue is about $150 each way between Long Beach and Buffalo. About $200 each way for San Diego. And yes, you can wear a leather trench coat in the winter, I do it myself.

However, you will not be wearing it most of the year. In the summer, as late as September in fact, temperatures can hit the 90s.

Oh, and for the record, I am about 30 minutes from the Canadian border. About 90 minutes to Toronto from here.

Pffft. I can take 90s degrees Fahrenheit. I went through an entire summer of 100ish degrees F in my bedroom *at night* last year.

No A/C in the apartment = PHAIL, as you youngsters say these days.


----------



## pioneerisloud

@txtmstrjoe:
You know you can pay the gas for myself and froggie in our car to get to SoCal, then pay the airfare for the 3 of us, maybe even for your girlfriend as well....then we'll all fly to Buffalo and make a weekend out of it







.

Just figured I'd put that idea in there.....you know since I'm such a mooch







.


----------



## Blitz6804

Ouch, that sucks Joe. Central air for the win?

I am in shorts by 60ÂºF, have the A/C on by 70ÂºF. I HATE heat.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
@txtmstrjoe:
You know you can pay the gas for myself and froggie in our car to get to SoCal, then pay the airfare for the 3 of us, maybe even for your girlfriend as well....then we'll all fly to Buffalo and make a weekend out of it







.

Just figured I'd put that idea in there.....you know since I'm such a mooch







.









:swearing:

blitz, you haven't known pioneer as long as I have.

*NOW* do you see the folly of defending him earlier?










Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Ouch, that sucks Joe. Central air for the win?

I am in shorts by 60ÂºF, have the A/C on by 70ÂºF. I HATE heat.

I wish we had central air here. No dice.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Awww, come on txtmstrjoe!

I was just kidding anyway, you know that







. It'd be fun, but not worth the bank on txtmstrjoe's end. If I had money to help with this little trip, I wouldn't object, lol.


----------



## Blitz6804

I am the one who suggested the idea. I figured it would be funnier if he posted it though.

*Hides from Joe's wrath*


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Awww, come on txtmstrjoe!

I was just kidding anyway, you know that







. It'd be fun, but not worth the bank on txtmstrjoe's end. If I had money to help with this little trip, I wouldn't object, lol.

I knew you were kidding, goober!









Yeah, man, I wish I had enough koin to spring for a S939 jamboree somewhere. That'd be cool. Heck, if we did it at blitz's neck of the woods during the winter...

Sub-zero ambients..?

Interesting...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I knew you were kidding, goober!









Yeah, man, I wish I had enough koin to spring for a S939 jamboree somewhere. That'd be cool. Heck, if we did it at blitz's neck of the woods during the winter...

Sub-zero ambients..?

Interesting...









Agreed....I might even break 3.1GHz stable







! Maybe more? Oh the possibilities! I knew that you knew BTW. Did you know that? Ok, seriously, lets not start that, I'll get confused







.


----------



## Blitz6804

Coldest I've had this winter was actual temperatures of -17Âº C (1.4Âº F) with wind chills reaching -40Âº.

I wonder if we could boot our PCs, or be cold-bugged out.

Nota bene: I did not specify a scale on the wind chill. That is because -40Âº F = -40Âº C.
Believe me or not, it is true. I will prove it later if Pioneer cannot.


----------



## timxirish

Behold.. The lame opty-clock:



Mainboard tab
Memory tab

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=324790

I'll work on something better later when I get a better grasp at how the overclock settings interact with each other. Took me a while to figure out that the FSB basically = the HTT (whether that's true or not, but it seems to be.. at this stage I can be easily tricked







). Besides, 2.2 is better than what I had with 116 FSB and nothing else changed (1.98GHz).

For now I've got to head up to the pet store (seattle, so i've still got time







) because the dog decided it'd be cool to chew his collar off. Somebody put it on too loose







.


----------



## Poser

Quote:


Originally Posted by *timxirish* 
Behold.. The lame opty-clock:



Mainboard tab
Memory tab

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=324790

I'll work on something better later when I get a better grasp at how the overclock settings interact with each other. Took me a while to figure out that the FSB basically = the HTT (whether that's true or not, but it seems to be.. at this stage I can be easily tricked







). Besides, 2.2 is better than what I had with 116 FSB and nothing else changed (1.98GHz).

For now I've got to head up to the pet store (seattle, so i've still got time







) because the dog decided it'd be cool to chew his collar off. Somebody put it on too loose







.

pump that HT multi up young man... 4x (not that it will make a substantial difference)


----------



## Poser

@ Tim...

I have got something for you, that you might or might not find helpful (may post this in the AMD mobo forum too)...

Its a chart of the DFI voltages with their corresponding Special VID. It make quick reference for OC setting a breeze (especially when you know your vdroop...you can make easy voltage steps)










the full table is attached...

hope it helps


----------



## timxirish

I have a feeling it will. I've looked at the Special VID before and although I'm good with math, I'd much rather have a table than figure out results with percentages. Slightly before booting into XP, I did mess with the volts a bit, but ended up with a blue screen (no signal from monitor)... Had to take off my side panel and toggle that red jumper by the battery.. One of these days I'm going to get a female header to put on those pins and wire it to a SPDT switch. The lazy man's way to clear the CMOS







..

But anyhow, it'll be a handy resource, so thank you.


----------



## thlnk3r

Tim, I'm glad you fixed your issue. Funny how the simplest things are always the hardest to find.

Poser, nice post! Love the chart. I gotta look into this.

Pioneer, how is the MSI board?









Joe, sdjj459df9gj gjg r doo doo


----------



## timxirish

thlnk3r, to be honest I don't know why I didn't check it before. About a year or so ago, I was pretty heavily into Xbox repair (original Xbox), and out of the 21 error codes an Xbox can give on a FRAG (flashing red and green) , about 1/4th of them can be caused by IDE cable issues. Just a tad ironic.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *timxirish*


thlnk3r, to be honest I don't know why I didn't check it before. About a year or so ago, I was pretty heavily into Xbox repair (original Xbox), and out of the 21 error codes an Xbox can give on a FRAG (flashing red and green) , about 1/4th of them can be caused by IDE cable issues. Just a tad ironic.










I can identify with you, Tim.

Cable issues are often the easiest to overlook. At least three times I've had disk-read (HDD) errors in WinXP's Event Viewer caused by a cable fault. Once the cable was swapped out for a new one, bye-bye errors.









Good to know you've got your issues sorted, Tim.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Tim, I'm glad you fixed your issue. Funny how the simplest things are always the hardest to find.

Poser, nice post! Love the chart. I gotta look into this.

*Pioneer, how is the MSI board?







*

Joe, sdjj459df9gj gjg r doo doo

So far its doing great. We'll find out once she gets an Opty for it though how well it REALLY does.


----------



## timxirish

Well, I'm back again with better results, although I'm unsure how stable they are... I'll run a few tests and find out.. But this is what I'm looking at:









http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=324925

That's huge progress from what I had earlier. And Poser, although you didn't intentionally explain it, thanks to your last post about setting the HT to 4x, I discovered where that's reflected in the CPU-Z image. When I went to compare what others had done with their Opty 165's, I actually changed back to 3x.. But now a part of me wants to change it to 2x.

Reason why I'm considering doing 2x is because I noticed a good few of the 165 overclocks around 3GHz are using either an nf4 eXpert or the same board as myself with theirs at 2x. I definitely was not stable with my FSB at 311 and 3x HT mult... Maybe it's just a coincidence that they had good results with the 2x HT mult using lanparty nf4 variants with their opty 165's, but I'm convinced there's potential gain there. In the mean time, i'm going to be running tests to check the stability of my current OC.

Edit: Shot down by Super Pi. Did tests in order til 256K. Failed at 256K after loop 6


----------



## MjrTom

Just to give you an idea my board/CPU was stable upto approx 400FSB and the HTT running at 1100MHz


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *timxirish* 
Edit: Shot down by Super Pi. Did tests in order til 256K. Failed at 256K after loop 6

Tim, how much vcore are you running at that overclock? Can you include your CPU-Z tabs for the memory?

Let us know

Good luck


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *timxirish*


Well, I'm back again with better results, although I'm unsure how stable they are... I'll run a few tests and find out.. But this is what I'm looking at:









http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=324925

That's huge progress from what I had earlier. And Poser, although you didn't intentionally explain it, thanks to your last post about setting the HT to 4x, I discovered where that's reflected in the CPU-Z image. When I went to compare what others had done with their Opty 165's, I actually changed back to 3x.. But now a part of me wants to change it to 2x.

Reason why I'm considering doing 2x is because I noticed a good few of the 165 overclocks around 3GHz are using either an nf4 eXpert or the same board as myself with theirs at 2x. I definitely was not stable with my FSB at 311 and 3x HT mult... Maybe it's just a coincidence that they had good results with the 2x HT mult using lanparty nf4 variants with their opty 165's, but I'm convinced there's potential gain there. In the mean time, i'm going to be running tests to check the stability of my current OC.

Edit: Shot down by Super Pi. Did tests in order til 256K. Failed at 256K after loop 6


pretty good. what stepping is your opty? j/w. mines a ccbbe 0617fpmw. got OC OCCT stable at 2943MHz. i havent had time to do other tests yet but the oc seems pretty stable so far for what i use it for. i think my HTT is at 3x. FSB @ 327MHz. what voltages you running your cpu vcore and ddr vcore? just wanna know for a comparing =P lol oh what time did you get on superpi 1m?


----------



## Blitz6804

iandroo888, timxirish said it failed at 256k digits. Do you think 1m would work if 256k failed?


----------



## iandroo888

ha... ha.. oops @[email protected] lol stupid me


----------



## timxirish

Haha, well if you want to know how it would do as the first test ran, then my PC is booting right now for you. And Super Pi says.... "ERROR: NOT EXACT IN ROUND" after Loop 11 finished. Though if I were to take it from the top, yeah, I'd fail on 256K within the first 6 loops. Also iandroo, my stepping is CCB1E 0550VPMW. Just like the CCBBE, it's very likely to be coldbugged, and it averages >=2800 according to the ExtremeOverclocking wiki.

thlnk3r, iandroo, and whoever else who's interested, these are the only changes I've done:
HT Mult: 3x
Mem divider: 150Mhz
FSB: 306

And as far as I know, volts are on default settings. Also, here's the memory tab:


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *timxirish*


Haha, well if you want to know how it would do as the first test ran, then my PC is booting right now for you. And Super Pi says.... "ERROR: NOT EXACT IN ROUND" after Loop 11 finished. Though if I were to take it from the top, yeah, I'd fail on 256K within the first 6 loops. Also iandroo, my stepping is CCB1E 0550VPMW. Just like the CCBBE, it's very likely to be coldbugged, and it averages >=2800 according to the ExtremeOverclocking wiki.

thlnk3r, iandroo, and whoever else who's interested, these are the only changes I've done:
HT Mult: 3x
Mem divider: 150Mhz
FSB: 306

And as far as I know, volts are on default settings. Also, here's the memory tab:




Tim, is that DDR 400? Your already overclocking your memory if it's DDR 400 so that might be causing some instability issues. Have you ran Orthos to test for stability? Is your board able to handle more then 300HTT? Have you tried giving your chipset some more voltage?

Good luck


----------



## timxirish

Yep, it's DDR400. Haven't ran Orthos yet, as I wasn't familiar with it. Only overclock testing apps I've heard of so fare are Memtest, SiSandra, SuperPi and Prime95. Curious, but would Orthos be related to Prime95?

Haven't given the chipset more voltage, just because I've heard that if you go too far, you can have a dead board (and I have no perspective on where "too far" may be). HTT is currently at 306, but i'm unsure if I can have it stable >= 300. As I mentioned a few posts ago, I was given the idea HTT basically was FSB, so if this is wrong, please let me know.. haha.

Orthos results:

Quote:



Type: Blend - stress CPU and RAM Min: 8 Max: 4096 InPlace: No Mem: 766 Time: 15
CPU: 2736MHz FSB: 201MHz [202MHz x 13.5 est.]
3/5/2008 2:32 PM 
Launching 2 threads...
Using CPU #0
Beginning a continuous self-test to check your computer.
Press Stop to end this test.
Test 1, 4000 Lucas-Lehmer iterations of M19922945 using 1024K FFT length.
Torture Test ran 0 minutes 21 seconds - 0 errors, 0 warnings.
Execution halted.

Using CPU #1
Beginning a continuous self-test to check your computer.
Press Stop to end this test.
Test 1, 4000 Lucas-Lehmer iterations of M19922945 using 1024K FFT length.
FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0.4999990955, expected less than 0.4
Hardware failure detected, consult stress.txt file.
Torture Test ran 0 minutes 18 seconds - 1 errors, 0 warnings.
Execution halted.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *timxirish*


Yep, it's DDR400. Haven't ran Orthos yet, as I wasn't familiar with it. Only overclock testing apps I've heard of so fare are Memtest, SiSandra, SuperPi and Prime95. Curious, but would Orthos be related to Prime95?

Haven't given the chipset more voltage, just because I've heard that if you go too far, you can have a dead board (and I have no perspective on where "too far" may be). HTT is currently at 306, but i'm unsure if I can have it stable >= 300. As I mentioned a few posts ago, I was given the idea HTT basically was FSB, so if this is wrong, please let me know.. haha.

Orthos results:


Tim, there is something definitely not stable with your current overclock. Have you had a chance to find the limits of each component first? I'd suggest having a quick glance at this guide (it's fairly short): http://www.overclock.net/faqs/31782-...pu-memory.html.
It's a possibility that perhaps maybe your memory may need to be placed on a divider to bring the frequency speed down a bit. Try to play with your memory after you've accomplished a nice stable overclock with your processor. Check out that guide. We need to know what your chipset is capable of doing first. If you can do 340HTT on stock chipset voltage then that would be good.

To answer your question about HTT...yes FSB is also known as HTT in regards to AMD processors.

Good luck buddy


----------



## timxirish

I'm a bit hesitant on the max HTT finding process... I can't remember where I read it, but there was something about the offical DFI bioses having a limit on how far you can go with addtional chipset voltages. Now really, that doesn't sound like an issue at all in terms of possible danger, but i've also heard that OCZ Tony's 704-2bta allows for pushing the chipset further.. and my stock DFI chipset fan is dead. I replaced the TIM with some as5 (also discovered I neglected to notice a "Remove Pull Tab" under it.. Explains why I kept getting 58C on my chipset







) and the temp is now 46C.

I've got my laptop here with me, so I'll be around.. Going to try the test a setting lower than max volt, just to be on the safe side. I really don't want a dead mobo.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *timxirish* 
my stock DFI chipset fan is dead. I replaced the TIM with some as5 (also discovered I neglected to notice a "Remove Pull Tab" under it.. Explains why I kept getting 58C on my chipset







) and the temp is now 46C.

Tim, I'd advice changing that ASAP. The stock cooler is extremely weak with a dead fan. I recently purchased a Thermalright HR-05-SLI for mine and it works great. I've attached a 60mm fan volt modded to 7volts and it's perfect for my application. Just a little advice though, the HR-05 may hit your video card and HSF depending on how you position it.

Good luck


----------



## timxirish

Wow, that's a pretty awesome heatsink. I like the idea of it being passive and how it extends out like that, but I was thinking of going with the Evercool VC-RE because of it's a low profile (there arn't many that fit these lanparty boards).. But honestly who knows which one I'll end up with. I admit, I'm pretty cheap at times, so if I can find a good deal on the thermalright, I'll go with it.. But I'm leaning towards the evercool at the moment. My case is pretty cluttered. :-\\

Edit: Reloaded the previous settings I posted here (the ones Orthos failed on), and enabled Memtest in the bios (i seriously love how they integrated that). So far it's made a full pass without error, and now I have it looping test 5, which is said to be enough to make any memory issues come to surface. So far, 4 passes, no errors. Memory seems to be fine at the current OC'd settings. Guess it's just the CPU freaking out at these settings.


----------



## Poser

@TIM... I, like th!nk3r, use the TR HR-05sli and can attest that is the "bomb" (official technical term) I run my chipset @ 1.68v and it never gets above 40*C at full load with PASSIVE cooling. It is the shizzlenit

Also... I recommend looping (in memtest) test #5, #6 and #8 ten times each...and then if you pass... looping all tests overnight.

Also... I noticed that you are running you RAM 4,6,6,8... that is obscenely loose for DDR 400. I bet you could tighten that down to 2,3,3,6 or (3,4,4,8 at the minimum).

Tim... I just gonna say it, I am jealous of you right now. You have a blank OCing pallete right now. Everything is fresh, new and delightful. To boot, you have one hell of a rig to break yourself in on. I feel, that once you get your legs under you, you are going to find you have one of the legendary 3ghz on air chips

you lucky lucky bastard


----------



## timxirish

, yeah, I hear you. I've had this rig for about 4 years using stock cooling, but finally made the step up thanks to (litterally) a random guy in WoW through this other site that I'm active on.. He told me about how much Opterons rocked and told me I should consider upgrading, due to how some of them overclocked... So I researched it, got my Opty, and here I am.









It's a shame I don't have contact with the guy who originally helped me build this PC. He picked out the motherboard and said I wasn't allowed to pick anything else, haha. I would totally be thanking him right now for that.

As far as memtest went, I passed #5 about 21 times before I decided it was done. I may try it overnight though. As far as the ram goes, my sig only states what it's stock timings are. My board auto-tweaked it to 3-3-3-6 though (2-3-3-6 is possible, but I forget what option the 2 is representing). And for the 3.0GHz part... I'm expecting no less.







. I'll find a way to get it there somehow. At the moment I'm in a unstable 2.85GHz overclock (juiced the special VID to +10%, as well as the chipset up one setting). Getting progress, but I'd love to find a way to pump out more FSB without problems booting. If I could manage that, I could change the HT mult to 2x and possibly get closer to my target.

Also, I'm not going to even dare with upping the chipset volt again. In a second i'll grab a smartguardian screen on my lanparty rig.


----------



## Poser

TIM... you don't need to run your HT so low, as I think there is a point of diminishing returns and you end up bottlenecking...

...more importantly, I have rarely seen CL (Column Address Strobe latency) 4, DDR modules. Also, as Scorpion has pointed out previously in this thread... beware of the FSB hole. You may be stable up to 311 and then nothing... but then you again are stable from 319-348, (this you have a "FSB Hole" btw 312-318htt(

I know th!nk3r has suggested this, but I would also like to re-emphasize... try and max out each component individually... thus taking some of the guess work and limiting the number of unknowns.

Clock on my man


----------



## timxirish

Will do. I'll probably only check the FSB max when I've got proper cooling for that chipset. Here's the smartguardian screen I was going to edit in:









I've got weird resolution settings (put there purposely though), so the last digit on the right for each fan speed is missing.

I'm starting to consider that passive heatsink a bit more now, but still unsure. If i do go with the passive, I'll find a fan with a power connector that can plug into the motherboard to go with it (or just a molex fan w/adapter.. hell, i could make my own.).

I'll take the suggestion a bit more seriously about finding my maxes though.. I'll just do the second two for now.


----------



## Otakuphill

i got my x2 3800+ to 2.5ghz i seen one go to 2.9. how is it done? when i go to 2.6 i get system crash. Please help total noob to hardcore oerclocking.


----------



## Blitz6804

First off Otakuphill, cool wallpaper, what anime is it from? Your avatar is obviously Azumanga Daioh.

That said, your HTT is a little low. I would change the multiplier from 2 to 3.

If you have DDR 400 RAM, you may be stressing it too much. Change the CPU/RAM divider such that the RAM is running closer to its DDR 400 spec. That being, try 2/1.66 (giving you DDR 414).

Also check that your latencies are not too aggressive. Unfortunately, I do not know what RAM you have. Can you either add it to your signature rig or take screen shots of your memory and SPD tabs for each DIMM?

I am a bit curious about the 1.5 GB. Is that 2x512 + 2x256, or 1x1024 + 1x512 or some other combination thereof? Ideally, you have all DIMMs identical, but two pairs is better than a miss-matched bunch.

You should be aware the average OC for a 3800+ Manchester is around 2.7 GHz. However, as has been said so well by txtmstrjoe:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe from thlnk3r's Signature*

Note: Stepping recommendations are NOT a guarantee of a overclocking result. They merely indicate possible outcomes due to the law of averages being in your favor.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Roster updated.

Welcome, Otakuphill!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *timxirish* 
Will do. I'll probably only check the FSB max when I've got proper cooling for that chipset. Here's the smartguardian screen I was going to edit in:









I've got weird resolution settings (put there purposely though), so the last digit on the right for each fan speed is missing.

I'm starting to consider that passive heatsink a bit more now, but still unsure. If i do go with the passive, I'll find a fan with a power connector that can plug into the motherboard to go with it (or just a molex fan w/adapter.. hell, i could make my own.).

I'll take the suggestion a bit more seriously about finding my maxes though.. I'll just do the second two for now.

Tim, I don't blame ya on the chipset temps. I even have a fan on mine and the idle temps are around 40C sometimes. Make sure though if you get the TR-HR-05 that you use a different mounting method. The push pins are very weak. I actually thought about using a screw and a nut to lock that thing down.

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Otakuphill*


i got my x2 3800+ to 2.5ghz i seen one go to 2.9. how is it done? when i go to 2.6 i get system crash. Please help total noob to hardcore oerclocking.


Otakuphill, I've cross-linked your thread in the AMD CPU section to here as well.

The key to a successful OC, I think, is to know exactly what your individual components' limits are. The only way to determine these is to test them in isolation from each other, and then at the very last stage making educated compromises and consolidating your different subsystems' maximums to best effect.

Since I'm down with the flu, I'll simply just give you the link to the best guide I've found to A64 OCing I know about online. It will give you a solid foundation on the terms, philosophies, and techniques that can hopefully help you extract the most from your machine.

Lastly, a comment: While we all would like to get as high an OC as someone else who has a similar machine to ourselves, that's not a realistic expectation. OCs are unique unto themselves, as there simply are just too many variables that can influence your results. Therefore, the only way to know what our parts can do is to get stuck in and find out.









Good luck! Your friends here in the Club are all ready and able and willing to help you out.


----------



## timxirish

thlnk3r, I'll take your word for it on the push pins. As far as cooling my chipset in the meantime goes, i've got a 40mm fan i ripped out of something laying around here that I'll have aimed at the chipset. Not going to move a whole lot of air, but better than nothing.

Also, Otakuphill, that guide txtmstrjoe linked you IS a great guide. Gave me a better grasp on the subject, so do take time to look at it.


----------



## Poser

update:

2.9ghz, 4gb RAM DDR486.... stable and still cooking...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Poser*


update:

2.9ghz, 4gb RAM DDR486.... stable and still cooking...


You are SO not a poser, Poser!









Mega job with that! You make a flu-ridden Joe smile.









Edit: DANGIT! I was hoping to get Post# 939! But you beat me to it!


----------



## thlnk3r

Poser, great job! Keep it up









Joe, but your socket 940


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
You are SO not a poser, Poser!









Mega job with that! You make a flu-ridden Joe smile.









Edit: DANGIT! I was hoping to get Post# 939! But you beat me to it!









lol


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Poser, great job! Keep it up









Joe, but your socket 940










940? That doesn't count! And that's no salve!

On the other hand... I DO have REPLY# 939!

Creative thinking FTW! Muhahahahahahaha









(Creative drivers, on the other hand...)







:swearing:


----------



## timxirish

For those who own a Thermalright hr-05-sli (i know poser and thlnk3r said they had one), could you do me a favor? Take a look at the space around my current chipset fan.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/2315923540/

When I was installing my new fans (thermaltake fireball.. was going to get blue Tt's, but 5 fireballs for $22 > 4 blues for $21), I took another look at the area around there and was worried that my Blue Orb might be in the way, as well as my (now) poor cable management. Think one of those heatsinks would fit right? If so, i'm sold on it. I'll rob the fan from my stock AMD cooler to strap to it (70mm, looked up fan model & great airflow).


----------



## Poser

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


You are SO not a poser, Poser!









Mega job with that! You make a flu-ridden Joe smile.









Edit: DANGIT! I was hoping to get Post# 939! But you beat me to it!










I am in fact the ultimate Poser... I am so uncool, that to counterbalance the intense uncoolness of the singular entropic disturbance I in fact become cool incarnate...
*
SUUUUGHHHWEEEEETTTTT!!!! *I didnt even notice. So thats two milestones: 1) my 939th post was in this thread, and 2) I have the 939th post in the thread...

Perhaps that is what allowed me to break the barrier and clock on









Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Poser, great job! Keep it up









Joe, but your socket 940










this OC is far from done...

1) I have got to get that vDIMM down, I can smell my RAM toasting









2) I may have to build a loop... cause 54 load is a wee bit high for my liking... and it aint even hot here yet

3)I have to tighten those RAM timings and try to get some of the bandwidth back

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


lol


----------



## Poser

Quote:



Originally Posted by *timxirish*


For those who own a Thermalright hr-05-sli (i know poser and thlnk3r said they had one), could you do me a favor? Take a look at the space around my current chipset fan.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/2315923540/

When I was installing my new fans (thermaltake fireball.. was going to get blue Tt's, but 5 fireballs for $22 > 4 blues for $21), I took another look at the area around there and was worried that my Blue Orb might be in the way, as well as my (now) poor cable management. Think one of those heatsinks would fit right? If so, i'm sold on it. I'll rob the fan from my stock AMD cooler to strap to it (70mm, looked up fan model & great airflow).


@Tim...

It might be tight my friend... the ORB, gfx card and cables all look to be potential problems. If you could take a larger picture... it may give a better idea of scale.

I would definitely look to clean up the cables, as you have already mentioned. I think my biggest concern looking at the picture... is that you will be able to avoid either contact with the orb, or you card... but not both







. I know this may sound drastic.... but I would recommend, selling the orb and purchasing a TRU/TRUE 120 and the HR-05. I really believe it is worth investment and it would allow for the installation of both heatsinks with your current configuration

Sorry for the double post.


----------



## timxirish

Well at the moment I'm in the process of finding a job.. but for now here's what I think I'll do. Keep the orb, buy the evercool mini HSF. It's around $12 so it's not much.. Then later on I'll pawn off the orb to my second machine (which is currently in the process of being built), and probably sell the evercool fan (or keep it for second rig) and get a HR-05.

I added my second machine to my profile, and considering the motherboard, I'm wanting to tend to that fairly soon. Now what I plan on replacing the orb with (again, later on, not now) is Thermaltake's V1. The V1 got a pretty good review, and if I remember correctly, it performs better than a BigTyphoon. It's also considerably lighter than my orb, and takes up less space.

I've considered the TRUE, but as dumb as it probably sounds, I don't like how it looks. Aesthetics are fairly important to me anyhow.

Edit: Poser, about bigger pictures... Did you click the all sizes button? Otherwise I can go back and take closer pics.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Tim, the V1 is an interesting choice, I must say. This is one cooler I've never tested.

I will be keen to know how well it performs. Please share your findings with the group if/when you do install it!


----------



## timxirish

I definitely will let everyone know. To be honest I'm not completely satisfied with the temps on the Blue Orb II, so going with the V1 is an option I'll probably have fairly soon.

But on the temperatures note... At 2.7GHz, I had almost 70C on load.. Made me consider lapping my HS & CPU. If I remember right, I can get about 10C lower in temps, meaning better overclocking ability. Don't think I'll do that just yet though. Currently at 2.66GHz and it's probably stable at this point. 2.7 seemed stable, but Orthos failed after about 5 minutes, so i dropped the FSB 5 and hoping it's good for now.

Someday... Someday.. I WILL have 3.0GHz! :swearing:


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *timxirish*


I definitely will let everyone know. To be honest I'm not completely satisfied with the temps on the Blue Orb II, so going with the V1 is an option I'll probably have fairly soon.

But on the temperatures note... At 2.7GHz, I had almost 70C on load.. Made me consider lapping my HS & CPU. If I remember right, I can get about 10C lower in temps, meaning better overclocking ability. Don't think I'll do that just yet though. Currently at 2.66GHz and it's probably stable at this point. 2.7 seemed stable, but Orthos failed after about 5 minutes, so i dropped the FSB 5 and hoping it's good for now.

Someday... Someday.. I WILL have 3.0GHz! :swearing:


If you need some personal opinions of CPU coolers, you can always contact me. I've tested quite a few heatsinks and fans; some are definitely better than others, and most have a character all their own.









70 degrees C on load is toasty; what is your VCore on load? Also, do you know your ambient temperatures? Also, how good is your case in terms of air intake? The HSF might be suffering from air starvation (not enough air is coming into the case).


----------



## pioneerisloud

Speaking of coolers, anyone wanna trade my Zalman 9500 for a bolt down BT straight across? Just wonderin.

And Dangit!!!! I missed post 939! Stupid work. I knew I shoulda called in sick, just so I could get the 939 post! Oh well, I'll live.


----------



## timxirish

txtmstrjoe, if there's a few awesome performance CPU coolers that arn't too bad of an eyesore that you know of, I'd be glad to hear about them.









There's so many things in the bios that have more than one name, so assuming vcore is CPU VID (i think that's what my bios calls it), it's at stock, and Special CPU VID puts it at a +10% increase... So whatever that would be.







.. Anyway, ambient temp? As in the room this tower's sitting in? If so, no idea. I'm horrible at estimates, so couldn't tell you. Intake wise, my case has a 120mm fan in the front (airflow partially blocked by my 3 HDs







), two 80mm fans bringing air in on from the window panel, one 80mm bringing in air from the right side (probably blocked by tucked cables), and one 80mm exaust in the back. The only stock fan is the front 120mm. The others are thermaltake fireballs.

I've got pictures of the internals a few posts back, in case you missed it. For bigger sizes, there should be a button above the picture.


----------



## GuardianOdin

hey guys,if I'm not posting much here. It's becuase I have some work I need to tend to I have been putting off for far to long. Just a heads up not that it matters


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *timxirish*


txtmstrjoe, if there's a few awesome performance CPU coolers that arn't too bad of an eyesore that you know of, I'd be glad to hear about them.









There's so many things in the bios that have more than one name, so assuming vcore is CPU VID (i think that's what my bios calls it), it's at stock, and Special CPU VID puts it at a +10% increase... So whatever that would be.







.. Anyway, ambient temp? As in the room this tower's sitting in? If so, no idea. I'm horrible at estimates, so couldn't tell you. Intake wise, my case has a 120mm fan in the front (airflow partially blocked by my 3 HDs







), two 80mm fans bringing air in on from the window panel, one 80mm bringing in air from the right side (probably blocked by tucked cables), and one 80mm exaust in the back. The only stock fan is the front 120mm. The others are thermaltake fireballs.

I've got pictures of the internals a few posts back, in case you missed it. For bigger sizes, there should be a button above the picture.


Well, as far as what would constitute an eyesore, only you can really say.







But judging by your comments, I'd hazard a guess and say you prefer circular/rounded CPU coolers and tend to eschew the "apartment tower" look favored by the Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme.

Of the circular types I've played with, I've only really had experience with the Zalman CNPS9500 AM2. I can't really say it's all that effective, to be perfectly honest. I still have it; it's being used on my father's machine. Using about 1.47V VCore on a Toledo X2 4400+ clocked up to a motherboard-limited 2.42GHz, the peak observed load temperatures are about 57 degrees C on the hotter core. Ambient temperatures were an estimated 22 degrees C. Fan RPMs ramped up to maximum during the stress test.

Just to put that in perspective, my gaming rig (Darth Ominous, presently the sig rig) is cooled by a Thermaltake Big Typhoon (non-VX version); the CPU is an Opteron 170 clocked to 2.8GHz on 1.36V VCore, with an ambient temperature reading of 25.5 degrees C. I'm running Orthos Small FFTs (to generate close to maximum CPU temperatures), and it's running 48 degrees on both cores. Mind you, that's also with the fan not on maximum RPMs (it's controlled by a fan controller).

What this all means: The Zalman allowed a temperature rise over ambient of 25 degrees C; the Thermaltake, 22.5 degrees C. The Thermaltake is all the more impressive, in my opinion, because of the ambient temperatures it operates in (it's warm in my bedroom, as you can see).

As far as your VCore settings go, 1.35V should be the stock value; Special CPU VID adds 10% to that, so that's an additional .135V. The actual VCore going into your CPU, then is 1.35 + .135 = 1.485V. Very very high VCore, especially for the speed your CPU is running.

Hope this helps!


----------



## Poser

I have actually had some success with zalman 9500 on my other socket 939 build...

I opted for a slight mod, and replaced the stock fan with a silverstone FM122 and it does a pretty good job of keeping my san diego below 44*C here in toasty southern florida (2.8ghz @ 1.42v)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *timxirish* 
For those who own a Thermalright hr-05-sli (i know poser and thlnk3r said they had one), could you do me a favor? Take a look at the space around my current chipset fan.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/2315923540/

When I was installing my new fans (thermaltake fireball.. was going to get blue Tt's, but 5 fireballs for $22 > 4 blues for $21), I took another look at the area around there and was worried that my Blue Orb might be in the way, as well as my (now) poor cable management. Think one of those heatsinks would fit right? If so, i'm sold on it. I'll rob the fan from my stock AMD cooler to strap to it (70mm, looked up fan model & great airflow).

Tim, can you take a closer picture? Mainly where the chipset cooler is at? I think you may have room for the HR-05-SLI but it's hard to say. If you need help deciding on HSF, definitely talk to Joe









Good luck!


----------



## MjrTom

Talking of the HR-05 SLi check out my review:
http://www.overclock.net/other-cooli...ge-cooler.html

Used as part of my current sys sig build


----------



## Blitz6804

Thats a hot ambient temp Joe, maybe you should lower your heat? My apartment is usually around 19-20ÂºC.

As for where I am, I am on Long Island right now, and will not be near my PC much. Maybe I will be surprised by my motherboard when I get home...

*Crosses fingers*


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MjrTom* 
Talking of the HR-05 SLi check out my review:
http://www.overclock.net/other-cooli...ge-cooler.html

Used as part of my current sys sig build









Mjrtom, when those temps were taken, what was the ambient room temperature? What kind of airflow do you have and are you running a fan on the HR-05? I get about the same temps when my room ambient is around 21C (70F).

Nice review btw


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Thats a hot ambient temp Joe, maybe you should lower your heat?

Blitz, I think the main problem is that he has no central air at all. Summer time gets nasty here in Southern California


----------



## MjrTom

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Mjrtom, when those temps were taken, what was the ambient room temperature? What kind of airflow do you have and are you running a fan on the HR-05? I get about the same temps when my room ambient is around 21C (70F).

Nice review btw









The ambient temperature would be about the same as you. (give or take a degree ot two)

As for airflow I have a single 120mm intake fan running at approx 1000rpm with no fan installed (passive) on the chipset cooler


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MjrTom* 
The ambient temperature would be about the same as you. (give or take a degree ot two)

As for airflow I have a single 120mm intake fan running at approx 1000rpm with no fan installed (passive) on the chipset cooler









Mjrtom, thanks for you response









I think my current case just has poor airflow. I'm in the process of switching to another one...hopefully it helps


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Thats a hot ambient temp Joe, maybe you should lower your heat? My apartment is usually around 19-20ÂºC.

As for where I am, I am on Long Island right now, and will not be near my PC much. Maybe I will be surprised by my motherboard when I get home...

*Crosses fingers*


thlnk3r is right, from a couple of posts up. No air conditioning (or central heating, for that matter) here, and it's a good 10 degrees C or so warmer inside the apartment compared to outside.

Cool beans on that review, MjrTom!









Poser, how tough is that mod to do? I've often wondered about what kinds of performance improvement you could make to a CNPS-series HSF by changing the fan, but the proprietary mounts that Zalman use make me reluctant to mod mine.


----------



## Poser

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


thlnk3r is right, from a couple of posts up. No air conditioning (or central heating, for that matter) here, and it's a good 10 degrees C or so warmer inside the apartment compared to outside.

Cool beans on that review, MjrTom!









Poser, how tough is that mod to do? I've often wondered about what kinds of performance improvement you could make to a CNPS-series HSF by changing the fan, but the proprietary mounts that Zalman use make me reluctant to mod mine.


"Hey Joe... where ya gonna go with that gun in your hand" -Jimmi

... peep this out









...the mod I did with the silverstone, was a little trickier given that the mounting did not lend itself to be as easily modded. Also, my first attempt shook itself loose when I turned up the rheostat







... I nearly crapped myself, because I didn't have the good sense to test it _*BEFORE*_ I mounted it to my mobo. I heard this weird whining noise... then just the sound of plastic exploding. Fortunately I didn't do any "real" damage... but lesson learned: TEST BEFORE YOU MOUNT!!!!!

SPCR mod is real simple, neat and effective (its where I got the idea...I just wanted performance vs. silent performance, hence the silverstone)... you just want to choose your fan carefully and mount it appropriately.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Brilliant link, Poser.

Thanks for sharing. I'm now considering modding the CNPS9500 mounted in my dad's rig.


----------



## justin146

I was saving this for a rainy day, but it snowed last night(in Mississippi of all places!!) so I figured this was good a day as any. I broke out an old 939 3200+ and lapped it along with the stock aluminum heatsink. I got it to 2.5Ghz and temps were about the same as my Opty 165 at 2.3Ghz(both at stock voltages). I dont really have a use for this chip, I was just really bored


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Great lap job, justin146!

Hehe... my girlfriend lives in Laurel, MS; we were on the phone last night, and every fourth or fifth sentence she said was "I'm cold."

Y'all got strange weather down there in MS.









Would you like to be included on our roster as a S939 Nostalgic? Just let me know.









Again, thanks for sharing pictures! We love pictures.


----------



## MjrTom

Hey want some pics?

Just a selection of random pics of my S939 rigs. Rest at:
http://www.overclock.net/gallery/sho.../21241/cat/500










My current S939 Dual core rig (one in my sys spec)










My LAN Box


----------



## Poser

@Mr Tom.... ohhhhhhh shiny. Good job


----------



## thlnk3r

Justin, nice laps









Mrjtom, clean rig dude


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Justin, nice laps









Mrjtom, clean rig dude









Seconded







.


----------



## iandroo888

quick note for txtmstrjoe. just got my hands on an A8R32-MVP Deluxe and AMD Athlon 64 FX-60. installing windows right now. so will do validation/screenshots tomorrow or something.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
quick note for txtmstrjoe. just got my hands on an A8R32-MVP Deluxe and AMD Athlon 64 FX-60. installing windows right now. so will do validation/screenshots tomorrow or something.

Message acknowledged.

Hope your new kit is fun! I've never played with either that motherboard nor an FX-series CPU.


----------



## MjrTom

Cheers for the comments guys.









I was thinking its a little messy at the moment


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Message acknowledged.

Hope your new kit is fun! I've never played with either that motherboard nor an FX-series CPU.









yah will see how well it can do. using an old aspire x-cruiser case i had so need to figure out cooling and stuff too. will play around with it later tonight


----------



## jizzleh2

i cant even seem to find any socket 939 cpus (oem at least) in my place,
thats how much my location sucks







,
although i really wana try an FX chip though.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Yeah, parts for S939 are getting very hard to find these days.

In a way, I think that's a testament to the greatness of the platform. You can still find parts for other older platforms (Socket A, S754, S478, etc.), but S939 chips are rare in the retail channel.

A real classic, our Socket 939 is!


----------



## Blitz6804

I just got home.

Do not have much time to talk.

Repaired MoBo is installed.

http://h1.ripway.com/nstge/CPU-Z.gif

OCCT stable, 4 GB of RAM at DDR 393 (see sig).

I found out that my RAM is supposed to be 2.65 V and the MoBo was only giving it 2.5 V.

As also mentioned, my HTT is limited to 800, so I dropped the mutli to 3x.

I installed the new Kama Bay fan.

Idle temps have fallen by 2Âº C, load temps by 5Âº C. I will post proof (and a full review?) later, but right now, I cannot stick around. I will also get around to the Silverstone 107 CFM fan... (Right now, it has a 30 CFM fan)


----------



## .Sup

Thanks to my 3500+ for all the hard work


----------



## txtmstrjoe

blitz, I've updated your validation link on the roster.







Great going with that X2 4400+ Toledo!









.Sup, would you like to be added to our roster as an honorary S939 Nostalgic member? We would be more than happy to have you as part of our crew.









I'm preparing to post a series of findings as I investigate the relationship between CPU speed, RAM frequency, and RAM timings. It's a fairly ambitious endeavor, but I'm hoping to come up with solid, repeatable findings.

And thlnk3r and I have promised a series of pictorial + text posts; we haven't had the chance to get together and shoot some chips with his digi-cam because of real life issues (mainly my getting the flu and the birth of my second nephew), but we'll get around to that soon as well.

Stay tuned! We're hoping to post some really informative material in this thread and make it a real useful source of knowledge.


----------



## CravinR1

I remember when my A64 3200+ was the top of the line processor and paid about $250 for it

.........wow that was awhile ago (but I kept it until feb of last year when I got my sig rig)

I can't wait for AMD to comeback and take the performance crown

........

My 939 setup:

A64 3200+
Asus A8N SLI Deluxe
2x 512 DDR 400
Nvidia 6200 (ok I cheaped out here)
600 watt psu (forgot the brand)
DVDRW
200+80 gig IDE (thought I was L33T)
17" CRT "true flat"


----------



## Blitz6804

I am still not fully here...

I haven't squeezed Poser hard enough yet regards RAM, but I discovered some of my instability:

My Corsair is speced to run at 2.65 V.

My Motherboard defaults to 2.5 V.

You see the issue?

I right now got the screenie at 2.6 V. My only other option is 2.7 V. Maybe if I overvolt the 0.05 V, I can get it to lose that other 0.5 CASL.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

CravinR1, I'll add you as a Nostalgic member.









I actually still do remember you rocking with your S939 rig from back then.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I am still not fully here...

I haven't squeezed Poser hard enough yet regards RAM, but I discovered some of my instability:

My Corsair is speced to run at 2.65 V.

My Motherboard defaults to 2.5 V.

You see the issue?

I right now got the screenie at 2.6 V. My only other option is 2.7 V. Maybe if I overvolt the 0.05 V, I can get it to lose that other 0.5 CASL.

blitz, .05V over default won't hurt the RAM any.







I say set it to 2.7V and see if that gets you more oomph and lower CAS Lat.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I'd say go for the slight overvolt. I'm sure it'd be fine. My RAM is running 2.90v just fine.


----------



## Poser

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I am still not fully here...

I haven't squeezed Poser hard enough yet regards RAM, but I discovered some of my instability:

My Corsair is speced to run at 2.65 V.

My Motherboard defaults to 2.5 V.

You see the issue?

I right now got the screenie at 2.6 V. My only other option is 2.7 V. Maybe if I overvolt the 0.05 V, I can get it to lose that other 0.5 CASL.

if you can... start loosening up you Max Async Latency (MAL) try upwards of 9,10,11...

make sure to set command rate @ 2t and loosen up the basic timings some: (try 3-4-4-8) you can always tighten back down once you have it stable @ DDR400 or above

remember you will most definitely need to run it on a divider (5/6 ddr333 divider)

up the cpu voltage to give the IMC a little kick in the you know whats...

start there and let me know how that goes (I dont know if you can tweak DRAM drive strength or DRAM DATA drive strength with you bios... but we will jump that hurdle when we reach it)


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz, make sure to keep that memory cool after you start upping the voltage. At 2.8volts, my g.skills were too hot to touch









Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Right now, I am at the very least suicide-stable at 250x11 (2750), with RAM running at DDR 393 2-3-3-6-2T at 2.7 V.

What a difference two tenths of a volt will make...

I tried to suicide at 3 GHz (273*11), but windows gave me a blue-screen "IRCQ_NOT_LESS_EQUAL."

I will need to try to creap up to it then.

I leave in about 3-hours for a surgical procedure with a 1% chance of serious complications. I hope I am a 99%...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Right now, I am at the very least suicide-stable at 250x11 (2750), with RAM running at DDR 393 2-3-3-6-2T at 2.7 V.

What a difference two tenths of a volt will make...

I tried to suicide at 3 GHz (273*11), but windows gave me a blue-screen "IRCQ_NOT_LESS_EQUAL."

I will need to try to creap up to it then.

I leave in about 3-hours for a surgical procedure with a 1% chance of serious complications. I hope I am a 99%...


Well I wish you luck with your surgery







. We'll all hope you're within that 99% range. There is still that 1% though.....but I'd take a guess and say you'll be fine







.

Have you attempted to loosen your timings? Maybe you're not running enough voltage for 3.0GHz on the CPU? Just a few things I can think of off the top of my head, lol.


----------



## Blitz6804

Thanks Pioneer, we will see what happens.

Afterwards, I get to have another one on Thursday! Well, at least that one is only local, and not general, anestesia.

For the record, I have finally gotten my CPU Validation Link. I know there are those that do not always trust screen shots, so there it is.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


For the record, I have finally gotten my CPU Validation Link. I know there are those that do not always trust screen shots, so there it is.


Blitz, looking good


----------



## Blitz6804

I LIVE!

I have another one to go to Thursday, but that is much less risky.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I LIVE!

I have another one to go to Thursday, but that is much less risky.


So its much less risky than a 99% chance of living? Wow....not too risky then, huh







.

BTW, nice CPUz validation! Even though you've got the RAM slightly underclocked...those timings are excellent







. Especially with 4 1GB sticks. I'm looking forward to your "final" clock speeds and timings!


----------



## CravinR1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


CravinR1, I'll add you as a Nostalgic member.









I actually still do remember you rocking with your S939 rig from back then.










Yeah I had a 2.6 on my old Venice

Cool I found a old screenshot of MY venice (as taken from this thread)










And here is the thread of when I first joined and was asking you guys questions

http://www.overclock.net/amd-cpus/32...nice-help.html

I sold the rig and its currently down (due to the REPLACEMENT chipset cooler on the Asus A8N failing) a easy fix, but i'm trying to get the computer back


----------



## txtmstrjoe

CravinR1, I've added you to our merry list! Thanks for sharing your nostalgia and appreciation for S939.

And kudos to you, too, for wanting your S939 rig back!


----------



## Blitz6804

As I said Pioneer, I tried suiciding to 3.0 GHz, but no dice.

Oh well.

I will start inching the proc up later, maybe next week? My mother is visiting for the week, and so, I have had little time to putter.

Anyone know where I would post a review of the Kama Drive Bay Cooler I bought?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
As I said Pioneer, I tried suiciding to 3.0 GHz, but no dice.

Oh well.

I will start inching the proc up later, maybe next week? My mother is visiting for the week, and so, I have had little time to putter.

Anyone know where I would post a review of the Kama Drive Bay Cooler I bought?

Good luck with the suicide, blitz! (Oh geez, that sounds so unintentionally inappropriate...)

As far as posting a review, try here.


----------



## Blitz6804

Thanks txtmstrjoe, I have now posted it:

http://www.overclock.net/hardware/sh...hp?product=713


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Thanks txtmstrjoe, I have now posted it:

http://www.overclock.net/hardware/sh...hp?product=713

Yumping yiminy, that is one PROFESSIONAL review, blitz! You MUST be commended for it.









Most impressive.


----------



## iandroo888

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=328424

stock so far. will play with it over spring break


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=328424

stock so far. will play with it over spring break

My lord, iandroo, you own a veritable FLEET of S939s! You might have a bigger collection of S939 rigs up and running than I do.









I've long been curious about the FX-series chips, but could never justify the cost of buying one; even used, they command an impressive premium. Hope you have great fun playing with yours!


----------



## iandroo888

hehe









will play with the FX starting tomorrow... will look to you guys for help


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Thanks txtmstrjoe, I have now posted it:

http://www.overclock.net/hardware/sh...hp?product=713

Blitz, nice review


----------



## Blitz6804

I ran an Orthos on that rig last night.

It ran sans incident for 12 hours, 6 minutes.

Meaning, I am now OCNS5 stable at those timings.

See:










Now, once my mom leaves, I will start tinkering more...

For the record, maximum temperatures at load were 45Âº C and 50Âº C, depending on the core. Ambient was 19.5Âº C and case temps varied between 27Âº C and 30Âº C. The latter variation is because I have temperature-sensitive case fans.


----------



## GeorgeC

Had an Abit UL8 S939 motherboard since 2006, still got it now, my first CPU for it was an Athlon 1800+

I never overclocked it, although it has worked well untill now, where I have my dual core socket 939 CPU at 2.2ghz


----------



## Blitz6804

To those wondering what my case looks like:


















Yes, all the glowing is necessary: they are 'smart fans' that automatically throttle as temperature requires. And I must say, this is the neatest wiring I have ever had.


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz, nice setup









What kind of numbers are you getting with that 3850 AGP? 3DMark06 wise?


----------



## Blitz6804

I do not have 3DMark06. Where do I get it from?


----------



## Poser

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I do not have 3DMark06. Where do I get it from?

here, kid....only cause I like you









purrrty rig too


----------



## Blitz6804

Kid!? I am only 9 years younger than you! (>_<)

It is downloading now, I will run it after dinner.


----------



## Poser

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Kid!? I am only 9 years younger than you! (>_<)

It is downloading now, I will run it after dinner.

I mean... based on the age in my profile









muahahahahahaha


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Kid!? I am only 9 years younger than you! (>_<)

It is downloading now, I will run it after dinner.


young'in!


----------



## thlnk3r

Maybe we should have all of the 939'ers list off their ages









27 here


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Maybe we should have all of the 939'ers list off their ages









27 here










Haha!

You're old.

Oh wait. I'll be... 33 this year!










@ GeorgeC: Would you happen to have a CPU-Z validation of your S939 chip? We'd LOVE to add you to our (still) ever-growing horde of S939ers!









@ thlnk3r: Now that you've got your rig rebuilt, man, didn't you mention you wanted to do an club-only case-management "contest"?


----------



## CravinR1

I had my 939 until i was 32 (33 now)


----------



## Blitz6804

I am, as my profile indicated, nearing my twenty-third birthday.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

So far, CravinR1 is the oldest, with me just slightly younger.

That means Cravin is automatically the wisest person in this thread.


















Edit: blitz, LOVE the sig!


----------



## Poser

So now I don't feel like as much of a degenerate...

@31 I was wondering if I spend to much time with my toys...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


@ thlnk3r: Now that you've got your rig rebuilt, man, didn't you mention you wanted to do an club-only case-management "contest"?










Joe, hehe yeah...was thinking about that. Maybe the club founders can be the judges?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Joe, hehe yeah...was thinking about that. Maybe the club founders can be the judges?










Muhahaha

Works for me.

Although I think you and I should also post some pics. Not eligible for judging, maybe, but maybe as inspiration?









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Poser*


So now I don't feel like as much of a degenerate...

@31 I was wondering if I spend to much time with my toys...










Pfft. Poser, my man, by being a S939er, you ARE a degenerate!









But one of the group's best, too.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I totally agree with the case management contest. *I'll even put up a winning prize, if the winner is willing to pay shipping and decides he/she wants either / or item I have.* Of course, only if I get to judge as well







.

My cable management kinda sucks because of my rediculously horrible case. But it does look really nice though. Anyways, I'm willing to play a little contest!

Oh, and I'm 21 myself.

And also.....the 2 different prizes I have aren't HORRIBLE, but they're nothing fancy and new....but well worth it if you have the need for it.


----------



## Jman_345

Im a Proud 14 Year Old 939 Owner









I luv my Sempron So much.... I dont like to Oc it much ( It Cant OC much anyways... not with this Crap Mobo)

Nice case Man


----------



## iandroo888

cable management contest sounds good.. probably wont win but will be sure to join!

oh update.. FX-60 @ 2800MHz with 200 x 14.. anythin higher is unstable. need to do airflow mods on case first..


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


cable management contest sounds good.. probably wont win but will be sure to join!

oh update.. FX-60 @ 2800MHz with 200 x 14.. anythin higher is unstable. need to do airflow mods on case first..


Congratulations! Those FX series chips were supposedly monsters in their day. Now that you've found the highest multi, maybe try to clock the FSB up some? You should see 2.9GHz at least I'd think.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I totally agree with the case management contest. *I'll even put up a winning prize, if the winner is willing to pay shipping and decides he/she wants either / or item I have.* Of course, only if I get to judge as well







.

My cable management kinda sucks because of my rediculously horrible case. But it does look really nice though. Anyways, I'm willing to play a little contest!

Oh, and I'm 21 myself.

And also.....the 2 different prizes I have aren't HORRIBLE, but they're nothing fancy and new....but well worth it if you have the need for it.


Wow!

I thought straight up bragging rights were enough, but a prize too!







Thanks, pioneer. And for sure you can be part of the judging panel; I think thlnk3r would agree as well. It'd be good to have a third vote, to break a 1:1 tie, don't you think?









Jman! You're the youngest so far! But you obviously are wise, as well, rocking with S939 as you are.









iandroo! FX-60 has now equaled my Opteron. Hope you can get your FX-60 even higher!









We'll have to talk more about our internal case/wire management contest here in Club 939 soon. Perhaps sometime this weekend we can sort the details, then kick the lot off early next week. Sound good?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Sounds good to me


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Perhaps sometime this weekend we can sort the details, then kick the lot off early next week. Sound good?


Agreed


----------



## jbua5150

Here is my O/C on air.


----------



## jbua5150

Here is my O/C on air.







sorry for the double post, i suck.
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=237955


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jbua5150*


Here is my O/C on air.







sorry for the double post, i suck.
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=237955


great job! now run Orthos for 12 hours and your gold


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Welcome to the club, jbua5150! You've been added to our roster.









Impressive OC on that Opteron 175! Have you tested for stability?

Great job!


----------



## GuardianOdin

lol, just noticed how much Joe loves the







hehe


----------



## jbua5150

It is not orthos stable at all, about 30 sec. I played Crysis from start to finish with the setting tho. seems stable enough for me. lol


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
lol, just noticed how much Joe loves the







hehe









That's right, man!









I think I'm channeling The Fonz when I do that.








'eyyyyy!









Quote:


Originally Posted by *jbua5150* 
It is not orthos stable at all, about 30 sec. I played Crysis from start to finish with the setting tho. seems stable enough for me. lol

LOL Wow. Cool beans, jbua!










(That last one was for Guardian...)


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 







That's right, man!









I think I'm channeling The Fonz when I do that.








'eyyyyy!









LOL Wow. Cool beans, jbua!










(That last one was for Guardian...)


















sick with the Flu,trying not to laugh.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
sick with the Flu,trying not to laugh.
















Silly Guardian, laughter is the best medicine!









Seriously, though, I just got over the flu myself. Hope you feel better real soon, man.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Silly Guardian, laughter is the best medicine!









Seriously, though, I just got over the flu myself. Hope you feel better real soon, man.

thanks man. Drinking all the OJ and DayQuil I can...Mmmmm taste like chicken


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
thanks man. Drinking all the OJ and DayQuil I can...Mmmmm *taste like chicken*

Really?

(Pioneer Chicken?)

Dude, that flu must be really nasty, if it makes you think that even DayQuil tastes like chicken...

I blame pioneer for spreading that virus, actually. I got it after he had it.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Really?

(Pioneer Chicken?)

Dude, that flu must be really nasty, if it makes you think that even DayQuil tastes like chicken...

I blame pioneer for spreading that virus, actually. I got it after he had it.

My nephew brought it home from school. The doctor said they nothing for it and it just has to run it's course.

Pioneer_Chicken...love that chicken from Popeye's....errrrr..Pioneer_Chicken!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
My nephew brought it home from school. The doctor said they nothing for it and it just has to run it's course.

Pioneer_Chicken...love that chicken from Popeye's....errrrr..Pioneer_Chicken!

Yeah. Rest does so much to help.

Take care, buddy! Wake-up call (i.e., alarm clock) for work will be blaring in five hours.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jbua5150*


It is not orthos stable at all, about 30 sec. I played Crysis from start to finish with the setting tho. seems stable enough for me. lol


I had the same problem with my computer: Orthos would run for 30 seconds or so, then give me a rounding error.

Changing my HTT multi from 4 to 3 and upping my RAM from 2.5 V to 2.7 V made me 12+ hours Orthos stable. I wish you luck at wrangling her in!


----------



## svtfmook

see sig


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Please welcome our newest member, svtfmook!

Great job on those Opteron 165s! Are those two different CPUs, or the same one? I added both so that they are next to your name on the club roster.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Wow, this is kinda funny. That nasty flu is spreading through the 939 club! Everyone beware!!! Froggy had it, then I had it, then txtmstrjoe, now Guardian!!!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Wow, this is kinda funny. That nasty flu is spreading through the 939 club! Everyone beware!!! Froggy had it, then I had it, then txtmstrjoe, now Guardian!!!


Pioneer, now my wife has it. She came down 2 days ago with it









Quote:



Originally Posted by *jbua5150*


It is not orthos stable at all, about 30 sec. I played Crysis from start to finish with the setting tho. seems stable enough for me. lol


Jbua, since your rig isn't Orthos stable I would be very careful. Especially if the your memory isn't stable then you have the risk of corrupting your OS install.


----------



## Blitz6804

Gah! All of you keep away from me! I cannot afford to be sick!

*Runs and hides.*


----------



## iandroo888

this is what happens when i get bored lol.

its a AMD Athlon 64 X2 4600+ 939 SKT lol


----------



## CravinR1

did you run it after you removed the IHS?


----------



## iandroo888

nope. cuz i basically winged it. lol.. it was an extra and the 4600+ oc'ed badly so i wasnt really caring when i did it. notice in the pictures.. one of the things on the chip is gone. lol. shoulda read some instructions b4 doing it.. after i removed it, i saw a site that showed a really easy and good way of doing it.. o well. haha.

also, i just wanted to practice lapping a cpu heatspreader on that one b4 doing on a actual one.


----------



## Poser

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


nope. cuz i basically winged it. lol.. it was an extra and the 4600+ oc'ed badly so i wasnt really caring when i did it. notice in the pictures.. one of the things on the chip is gone. lol. shoulda read some instructions b4 doing it.. after i removed it, i saw a site that showed a really easy and good way of doing it.. o well. haha.

also, i just wanted to practice lapping a cpu heatspreader on that one b4 doing on a actual one.


take off the skirt and boot that b!t%^


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Just took a good look at the picture, iandroo.

No doubts there: That sucker's DEAD!









You were smart, though, to practice on an expendable chip. I lost a perfectly good chip with a case of the butterfingers.

Note: NEVER fumble a heavy HSF whilst it's poised over naked CPU.


----------



## Fusion Racing

AMD 3200+ @ 2750.78mhz

cpuz link is in my sig


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Welcome, Fusion Racing! Glad to have you in the ranks!

VERY impressive OC on that 3200+!


----------



## thlnk3r

Welcome Fusion and nice OC


----------



## pioneerisloud

Wow, that's a very respectable OC there Fusion! Congrats







. I had a 754 Venice that could only reach about 2.4GHz from stock of 2.2...so that seems quite good to me.


----------



## CravinR1

yeah thats respectable even IF its a suicide shot


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Just took a good look at the picture, iandroo.

No doubts there: That sucker's DEAD!









You were smart, though, to practice on an expendable chip. I lost a perfectly good chip with a case of the butterfingers.

Note: NEVER fumble a heavy HSF whilst it's poised over naked CPU.









heh









lapping a cpu is fairly easier than a hsf imo.

altho i got like 2 holes in my thumbs now somehow.. @[email protected]


----------



## CravinR1

also don't try to pull a HSF from a cold chip (ripped my x2 3600 right out of the socket and luckily a mechanical pencil fixed it and its running strong)


----------



## iandroo888

hmm never had a problem with taking HSF's off cpu's. even on really old rigs.


----------



## vuxdu

yeah I never had problems either. Just unscrew, twist, and slowly lift it..

I use arctic ceramique and shin-etsu


----------



## Fusion Racing

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CravinR1* 
yeah thats respectable even IF its a suicide shot

if you meant my cpu, its not, i run it 24/7


----------



## Blitz6804

Does 24/7 mean that the computer is never shut off, or that it ran Orthos for 168+ hours straight? That is always something I wondered.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Does 24/7 mean that the computer is never shut off, or that it ran Orthos for 168+ hours straight? That is always something I wondered.


Probably that the rig could run 24/7 at that speed. It's a testament to its stability.









I test and tweak my rigs so that all of them have this capability; I only ever turn them off for Windows Updates reboots or to cut down on power consumption.


----------



## Blitz6804

Just a quick update: no matter what I do, I cannot make Vista work with the HD 3850. Well, not no matter what. If I change the processor driver, a permanent switch if not for System Restore, I can get the video card to work fine. However, doing this disables one of the cores on my X2, and so, that solution is out.

I have an email in with Sapphire to see if they can tell me what to do.

Oh, question: Does anyone know how to make CnQ work in Vista? There is no AMD Vista driver, and the CnQ is not available to me with the default Vista driver.


----------



## CravinR1

I was just saying thats a great clock IF it was only a suicide run. That its stable 24/7 is truly a testament to the DFI MB and your tweaking abilities.

Like I said my venice got to 2600 mhz MAX


----------



## Blitz6804

Another update: I found out the problem. It seems that nVidia sought to be jerks when it came to Vista drivers. ATI video cards will not work on nForce2 or nForce3 motherboards in Vista on a dual core system. Just lovely.

If I disable a core via MSConfig, the video board works fine. My Vista Experience stats are:

Processor: 5.3
Memory: 5.1 (limit)
Graphics: 5.9
Gaming Graphics: 5.9
Primary Hard Disk: 5.9

As you can see, the HD 3850 impresses windows. 5.9 is the highest score currently available. Actual bench marks... I could not tell you.

If I reenable the second core, thereby relegating graphics to "Standard VGA" also known as "VGASafe," my graphics and gaming graphics drop to 1.0, but my CPU shoots up to 5.8. I wonder, how much of an over clock would make it a 5.9...

I also wonder how long nVidia is going to jerk their customers around. I have heard rumors of a possible class action suit. Law student that I am, I will need to look into that...


----------



## iandroo888

heres where my last screenshot was.. gonna play with the fx-60 today.. will see if i can make it better


----------



## amped

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=330455


----------



## timxirish

Kind of in a rush, so making this quick.

Neither myself nor my rig are dead just yet... But for various reasons I just haven't had access to it or any other reliable computer.









txtmstrjoe, I did read the last post you had typed up for me, and much thanks for that. I had a follow up reply in the works, but I didn't have time to actually post it. I did understand what you were getting at though.

As far as the chipset cooler went, I felt pressured to get the Evercool for now (like I had mentioned I might do), but don't think that the suggestions for the thermalright were wasted words. I do plan on getting it in the near future, but I'm going to wait for a time when I'm not traveling so much (i'm coming up to my third visit to AZ in 3 months... really long story). When I went to install the Evercool cooler, I made some changes on the inside for better airflow of my rig.. DVD drive and Tt Xray got bumped down to the bottom two 5.25 bays so unused psu cables could rest above, and that helped the cable management greatly







. Thanks to my past in Xbox repair & cosmetic modifications, I also took it upon myself to replace the two main blue LEDs on my case door with RGB chasing ones.. Matches the tri color fans







.. Sometime I'll have to get new pics of the above, but for the time being I'm out.

...Really off topic, but Shiny Toy Guns is a really awesome band (they just got me hooked







).


----------



## iandroo888

hmm wierd. i cant change latency on the a8r32-mvp board... anyone know where it is? lol i cant find it T_T


----------



## GuardianOdin

Everyone! get the new OCCT! seems what ever bug would keep locking up me is fixed....woot!


----------



## iandroo888

i never got locked up by occt.. lol..


----------



## Blitz6804

There is a new version of OCCT out? Or are you just now OCCT stable?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


There is a new version of OCCT out? Or are you just now OCCT stable?


OCCTv2

No not just now OCCT stable,but I haven't been able to run it due to it locking up during stress tests or just the program starting up.May have been a bad install.Orthos and the others run fine.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


hmm wierd. i cant change latency on the a8r32-mvp board... anyone know where it is? lol i cant find it T_T


Iandroo, are you looking for CAS Latency on the A8R32-MVP? If so it's located in Advanced --> CPU Configuration --> Memory Configuration. Should be labeled as CAS Latency (Tcl).

Hope this helps


----------



## Blitz6804

The following is my tribulations with Vista:

NVidia originally posted that the nForce 1 and nForce 2 series chipsets would not be supported by Vista. NForce 3 was listed as Windows Vista Certified two weeks prior to launch day. The night before Vista launched, nVidia removed that certification.

As it stands now, there is no Vista nForce 3 drivers. If you attempt to use dual-core AMD and an AGP ATI card on an nForce 3 motherboard it may not work at all. Like SiS and VIA, you will get the dreaded "Code 43" in device manager. After about an hour, you can make that program go away. With SiS and VIA, you would be up and running now, but not with nVidia.

If you are using nForce 3, your video card will continue to use Plug-and-Play drivers by the name of "VGASave." A search in device manager will show the card as operating normally. However, if you disable a core on your processor, via MSConfig, upon restart, the ATI drivers and Catalyst Control Center work fine. Re-enabling the second core kills the ATI driver.

If you use an nVidia graphic card, it will work at 4x AGP with the exception of the 8600 GT, which will work natively. All other nVidia cards can be forced to use 8x AGP by forcibly installing the nForce 3 5.11 Windows XP driver. Attempting this fix on an ATI card causes the computer to blue-screen of rather vague causes.

I have a call into nVidia tech support, as well as countless scores of others, but nVidia has been promising a fix for the past thirteen months, so the prospects are grim.

And for anyone other than me who is a fan of Skt 939, feel free to read my post on nVidia's forum in which I told some moron to shut up.

This post was originally posted into my  Sig-Rig's overclock thread.


----------



## JoBlo69

i have a 3200+ rig with 1gb of ram, running integrated video. It's my server box.

I also have a opty 170 rig with 2gb of ram and a 7600GT video card in it... Backup gaming rig...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Roster updates:

Welcome to amped! We're glad to have you!

And welcome as well to JoBlo69, who I've listed as a Nostalgic member.

I did a head count, and unless I miscounted, the club is 57 members strong! Bravo, guys and doll! I'm astonished that our little club grows seemingly by the day.

A few sundry items:

I'll be posting the rules for Club S939's first ever "Case Management Contest" in a day or two; there are just a few small details that need to be hammered out, but once those are settled, we'll get the ball rolling. I hope we all have fun, and that we see some great S939 rigs posted on here!

blitz, that must be really annoying, to have those compatibility issues with your older S939 rig. Sounds like shady business by nVidia, as you suggested. But perhaps that's a sad consequence of the march of technology. Everything eventually gets consigned to oblivion, if only because to satisfy the "need" to further line the corporate coffers.

iandroo, I must admit to feeling a little bit of FX-series envy. I wish I had the moolah to sink in for one of those, if only to have had the chance of playing with one.

Guardian, thanks for sharing the OCCT update info. I've run my sig rig through that twice, and, needless to say, it's passed both times. I just wanted to test-drive the program; I like much better than the older version, as it seems to heat up the CPU a lot more than before. I never experienced any lockups that weren't due to an unstable OC in the past, though.

tim, your post brings to mind a lyric by John Lennon, from "Beautiful Boy": "Life is what happens when you're busy making other plans." Thanks for your update, good sir; we look forward to more tales from you. We'll be here, staying tuned.









Guardian, once more (and to thlnk3r): I hope you're over the flu. My girlfriend is just now getting better from it. And thlnk3r, I hope your wife is also getting better. Just make sure y'all take your Vitamin C!

Finally, for Guardian (again):









(I thought you might appreciate that







)


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Iandroo, are you looking for CAS Latency on the A8R32-MVP? If so it's located in Advanced --> CPU Configuration --> Memory Configuration. Should be labeled as CAS Latency (Tcl).

Hope this helps










no was lookin for 1T/2T but i found it... thx anyway =P


----------



## pioneerisloud

Can't wait to hear the official rules for the contest!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


no was lookin for 1T/2T but i found it... thx anyway =P


Iandroo, no problem.

Joe, my wife is a little better









Looking forward to the case management contest!


----------



## iandroo888

wheres the rules? huh huh huh? dang u pioneerisloud! lol


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Looking forward to the case management contest!









LOL I have already lost. My mighty Power Ups! case just doesn't stand a chance









Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Guardian, once more (and to thlnk3r): I hope you're over the flu. My girlfriend is just now getting better from it. And thlnk3r, I hope your wife is also getting better. Just make sure y'all take your Vitamin C!

Finally, for Guardian (again):









(I thought you might appreciate that







)


















yes I do! and no I'm not over this flu/cold yet but I's be drinking my OJ


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
LOL I have already lost. My mighty Power Ups! case just doesn't stand a chance









Dude! You just TOTALLY have to shoot shots of that! I, for one, have never seen one of those.

Did I mention that *THERE WILL BE PRIZES*? pioneer will be donating a cool prize for the winner, and I have a consolation prize for second (and possibly even the third) place.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 







yes I do! and no I'm not over this flu/cold yet but I's be drinking my OJ

What can I say but


















Alright. I gotta open up my case again and tighten up the HSF mount. These Thermalrights really really love high pressure mounts. I was hitting 60 degrees C on one core, and only 42 degrees on the other.







The trick now is learning which side of the heatsink needs tightening up.


----------



## GuardianOdin

My Mighty PowerUp!!!!!

I'll see if I can get a camera for a pic of mine. I have to tighten my HSF down as well. 10c difference between the two cores.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

That don't look half bad, actually.

Besides, just as a heads-up, the money shots are going to be of the interior of the case.









Only because we have to satisfy pioneerisloud... who likes the concept of naked so much...

(I can't even begin to tell you half of what he tells me sometimes on chat...)


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
That don't look half bad, actually.

Besides, just as a heads-up, the money shots are going to be of the interior of the case.









Only because we have to satisfy pioneerisloud... who likes the concept of naked so much...

(I can't even begin to tell you half of what he tells me sometimes on chat...)









lol....I don't think I want to know









I don't really want to show the outside of the case as I have a heating duct from the window to my case fan....nice temps in the winter


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
lol....I don't think I want to know









I don't really want to show the outside of the case as I have a heating duct from the window to my case fan....nice temps in the winter









Yeah, you're right, methinks.

I shudder sometimes when I realize that pioneer's a pal. Like, I question my sanity sometimes.









J/K, pioneer! You know we love ya!

Hehe... I wish we had proper winters here in SoCal. I have to resort to chip mods (lapping/decapitation), or HSF modding, to get low temps.

Speaking of HSF modding, did you know that Thermaltake's mounting hardware can be adapted to work with Thermalright heatsinks?







In my opinion, the Big Typhoon's crossbar and bolts work better than Thermalright's bolt-thru kit on this SI-128SE.

I'll share pictures once I'm happy with the temps. I just hope I don't need to take the mobo tray out of the case again. I'm running out of zip ties!


----------



## GuardianOdin

I have to take the Mobo out to adjust the screws. I like the cross bar,but I wish it sat from front to back instead of up and down. The BT likes to shift from the weight so I have had to jerry rig a ziptie to keep from doing that.BUT I think that is causing the temp difference ...sigh. Oh well I'll fit it.But time for bed now.Until tomorrow!


----------



## ILOVEPOTtery

I suppose I should join the 939 ranks and celebrate. Unfortunatly, the sig-rig is going bye-bye to pay for school and paintball. I'm downgrading to my old A64 3000+ Winchestor (see Fugly), its no X2 Toledo, but it will do just fine with some clocking.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ILOVEPOTtery* 
I suppose I should join the 939 ranks and celebrate. Unfortunatly, the sig-rig is going bye-bye to pay for school and paintball. I'm downgrading to my old A64 3000+ Winchestor (see Fugly), its no X2 Toledo, but it will do just fine with some clocking.

ILOVEPOTtery, no problem. Just post up a CPU-Z screenshot when you get a chance and we'll add you to the roster


----------



## Blitz6804

To keep everyone updated with nVidia, I have posted all correspondences below. Remember, newest is on top, so if you want proper chronological order, read from the bottom up.

Response (David C) 03/18/2008 05:14 PM 
Hello Keith,
Thanks for the feedback. We'll punt your feedback to our engineer team for future consideration. For now, there's no plan to update any future nForce-3 driver.

Best regards,
David

Customer (Keith *******) 03/17/2008 11:15 AM 
This problem CAN be resolved via a new nForce driver. The last version (5.11) was, if I recall, over two years ago. It would not be a problem to either 1) release a Vista-version of nForce drivers or 2) release the source code to permit enthusists to do the same. If I need to buy a new motherboard, I can insure you that it will not be nVidia based.

According to the Windows Experience Index:

CPU 5.3 (Core1 disabled)
RAM 5.1
Graphics 5.9
Gaming Graphics 5.9
Hard Drive 5.9

If I re-enable Core1, the CPU score goes to 5.8. I have three out of five categories with the highest score presently available with Vista, and so, a new motherboard would be a waste of my time and money. This entire situation shows itself to be a ploy by your marketing department to force people into unneeded upgrades.

Please either release a Vista driver or permit third parties to do the same.

Response (David C) 03/17/2008 10:51 AM 
Hello Keith,
This issue will not be resolve via drivers and SBIOS updates. There are no solution at this time. The only workaround is to use a single CPU or upgrade your motherboard.

Best regards,
David

Response (IS) 03/16/2008 05:28 PM 
Hello Keith,

Thank you for contacting NVIDIA Customer Care.

Your case is being escalated to our Level 2 Tech Support group. The Level 2 agents will have to review the case notes. As this process may take some time we ask that you be patient and a Level 2 tech will contact you as soon as they can, to help you with your issue.

Best Regards,
NVIDIA Customer Care

Customer (Keith *******) 03/16/2008 01:54 PM 
I have a Gigabyte GA-K8NSC-939 (Skt939, nForce3), an AMD 4400+ X2, and a Sapphire Radeon HD 3850 AGP 512 MB. The whole setup worked beautifuly in Windows Experience. I installed Windows Vista today, and cannot get my video card to work properly. I do not have a Code 43 error as in issue 2041, and yet, if I try to use both cores of my processor, the ATI driver is disabled. I need to get Vista to work to utilize the DirectX 10.1 capabilities of my video card.

Please let me know how much longer it will take for a Hotfix for this, as research has shown that it has been promised since February, 2007. I need this computer to last me until I graduate, at which point, I am intending to buy a Quad-SLI system, but if nVidia shows that they refuse to support competitors' components (since the issue I am having is absent if I were to use an nVidia graphics card) I will need to consider a Quad-Crossfire instead. Research has shown that SiS and VIA also had this problem, but both of those manufacturers have already fixed it.


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz, I find this to be very interesting. I have a GA-K8NSC-939 also and it's an excellent board. I can see why you are wanting to use it so bad with your 3850. I'm assuming this card works great in Windows XP?


----------



## Blitz6804

That it does thlnk3r. I can run Civilization IV at full tilt and The Elder Scrolls IV: Oblivion nearly so, both at my monitor's native 1920x1200.

With my Visiontek X1959XGE AGP, I could run Civilization IV only at 1440x900 with no anti-aliasing and Oblivion at 1280x800 with no anti-aliasing and shadows and water effects turned off. I had not had the chance to try Age of Empires III prior to reformatting.


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz, well I guess you could always upgrade to XP


----------



## Blitz6804

I was considering using a dual-boot now at this point. The problem was I wanted Vista installed for 2 reasons:
1) Having two different operating systems that look similar* is driving me buggy. My laptop has Vista, my desktop had Experience.
2) The HD 3850 is DirectX 10.1. Experience tops out at DirectX 9.0c.

* Having two radically different systems is fine. I have no problem using Ubuntu Linux. I only wish Ubuntu could run all my games, in which case, I would take great pleasure in telling Mr. Gates off. I tried using (~), which was too much like Windows for me to handle. Yes, I know I am wierd.


----------



## Blitz6804

Does anyone know about the ABIT AV8 Socket 939 VIA K8T800Pro? I can find one new for $131 (if I can convince my parents to let me buy it) to fix my nForce 3 issue if nVidia is unwilling to do so. It supposedly overclocks, but how well? Has anyone had luck with it?


----------



## CravinR1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Does anyone know about the ABIT AV8 Socket 939 VIA K8T800Pro? I can find one new for $131 (if I can convince my parents to let me buy it) to fix my nForce 3 issue if nVidia is unwilling to do so. It supposedly overclocks, but how well? Has anyone had luck with it?


Though I did enjoy the Socket 939

............. For $131 you can order a Abit P35 ($60 after $20 MIR) and a E2160 $70 and have alot more performance. A gig or 2 of DDR2 ram is < $30-40 bucks now


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Does anyone know about the ABIT AV8 Socket 939 VIA K8T800Pro? I can find one new for $131 (if I can convince my parents to let me buy it) to fix my nForce 3 issue if nVidia is unwilling to do so. It supposedly overclocks, but how well? Has anyone had luck with it?


Blitz, sorry I haven't had experience with this board. Take a look at the For Sale section when you have a chance. Sometimes I notice 939 boards for sale. I think your best bet is to find a used 939 board for cheap. I sold my Asus A8N-SLI for $40 shipped so perhaps you'll find the same deal somewhere









Good luck buddy!


----------



## Blitz6804

Small problem with that CravinR1...

I have an AGP card, not a PCI-E.

Not to mention it is Intel (<_<)

I will keep my eyes open thlnk3r, but I am impatient, and am far more likely just to buy new.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ILOVEPOTtery*


I suppose I should join the 939 ranks and celebrate. Unfortunatly, the sig-rig is going bye-bye to pay for school and paintball. I'm downgrading to my old A64 3000+ Winchestor (see Fugly), its no X2 Toledo, but it will do just fine with some clocking.


that mean the G.Skill HZ DDR500 2GB (2x1GB) going up for sale?.......sweet sweet RAM. To bad I'm always broke


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


that mean the G.Skill HZ DDR500 2GB (2x1GB) going up for sale?.......sweet sweet RAM. To bad I'm always broke










?? who sellin ddr500 2x1gb??? pm me







lol!


----------



## Blitz6804

I just ordered an Abit AV8. It should be shipping in a week or so, and I will let you all know how it goes once I get it.

Maybe once I get it I will find some way to sell the GA-K8NSC-939 / 3700+ Sandy. Provided it works anyway: if it does not run Vista right anyway, back it goes!

EDIT: Decided Asus A8V-X instead. Ships Wednesday.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CravinR1*


Though I did enjoy the Socket 939

............. For $131 you can order a Abit P35 ($60 after $20 MIR) and a E2160 $70 and have alot more performance. A gig or 2 of DDR2 ram is < $30-40 bucks now



Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


?? who sellin ddr500 2x1gb??? pm me







lol!


CravinR1's post. I was making light that if he sold them,I'd be broke and couldn't buy them anyways


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Darn. I wish I had the chance to see this thread earlier today. However, I was stuck in downtown Los Angeles, mired in the midst of a St. Patrick's Day parade going through the City Hall area (which was, of course, my destination...).

blitz, a bit of a cautionary word: VIA chipsets are not especially known or recommended for OCing. I had a rather nasty experience with a later iteration of the K8T800 Pro, the K8T890, on my dad's Asus A8V-E SE. Once it got over a certain HTT frequency, the board caused massive damage to the OS. Rather incomprehensibly, VIA did not incorporate a PCI Bus frequency lock into their chipsets, although some boards (the A8V-E Deluxe, for one, and Abit's AV8-3rd Eye as well, if I'm not mistaken) do have that feature added. You might wind up with a situation similar to mine, and that is your overclocking efforts may be hamstrung by a motherboard that simply cannot go past a certain HTT frequency (as I recall, the limit on the A8V-E SE was a rather paltry 230MHz or so) without risking an OS meltdown.

I'm rather sorry about the chipset problem you're having. To be perfectly honest, your point about how the hardware and software manufacturers (specifically, their marketing departments) are misleading the end user mass to "upgrade" is one of my favorite hobby horses for discussion. My OCN blog (shameless plug







) has my thoughts on these and similar topics, and you can ask thlnk3r: Neither he nor I have much enthusiasm for marketing strategies.

(Which, incidentally, is why I'm perfectly happy with Socket 939.







)


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well guys...I have an update here. Keep on the lookout for my new 939 rig!

It's going to consist of:
Jetway 939GT4-SLI-G motherboard
AMD X2 3800+ Manny
stock cooling...it'll be running stock with Cool N Quiet turned on









My fiance's rig is going to be upgraded to either my sig's Opty 165 or an Opty 170 LCB9E. The 170 is currently being stressed in my rig to determine which CPU I want, lol.


----------



## Blitz6804

I was looking at the Abit AV8. It looked like it had a really good BIOS spread and I heard nothing but good things about it when used with Experience. Vista does not permit ÂµGuru to work. Which, since I do everything from the BIOS, is not a big deal.

However, AMD has the AV8 as a recommended board only for single core processors. AMD recommends either the Asus A8V or the A8V-X. Since Tiger Direct had the latter for $50, I could not refuse. I cashed in my Credit Card's cash-back bonus for a free motherboard. I just hope it works. Unexpected windfall: the A8V-X is SATA-II compatible. A big thank you for all those who convinced me to buy the SATA-II Deskstar rather than a pair of SATA Western Digitals.

If it does, I will be finding some way to advertise my GA-K8NSC-939 / 3700 Sandy.


----------



## Cvalley75

Hey Joe, add me to the list, been spending some time over on the dark side lately, but still love my 939 Toledo.

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=331022


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cvalley75*


Hey Joe, add me to the list, been spending some time over on the dark side lately, but still love my 939 Toledo.

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=331022


As you wish.









And the ranks of our horde swells even more by the day.

blitz: I'm not familiar with the Asus A8V-X; I will have to research that board, as my curiosity is aroused.

pioneer: Methinks you'll do better keeping the 165; you know that it's a sure thing, while that new Opteron 170 is a complete unknown. Just give it to froggy, will ya!









Also, some of your components have a distinctly familiar feel to them. Almost as though I know them intimately...


----------



## Blitz6804

As I said, TigerDirect has it in stock for $50. A three year warranty and a chance to get Vista working? I could not pass it up.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


As I said, TigerDirect has it in stock for $50. A three year warranty and a chance to get Vista working? I could not pass it up.


Thanks for the link, blitz.

Best of luck with the new board! We'll all be pulling for ya!


----------



## GuardianOdin

want to let you guys know. I have a 8600GT on it's way back to me. My friend says he could not get it to work.So when I get back from him I will test it. If it does work I will hold a drawing for 939 members only. Keeping my figures crossed it still functions.









Thought you guys would like that. I'll update as soon as I know.


----------



## Blitz6804

Any word yet on the case contest? I gotta get some better lighting in here so I do not need to have the low-light enhancement on.


----------



## Corpser

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=331050 my highest overclock so far


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Welcome to Corpser! You are now a part of our fraternity.









blitz, I've sent a rough draft of the contest rules to the judges. After a final consensus amongst ourselves, we'll be announcing the rules for our very first intra-club contest.









I hope we all have a great time with this!









Guardian: Mega thanks for the members only drawing! Your generosity is most appreciated and is acknowledged.


----------



## thlnk3r

Welcome to the thread Corpser and Cvalley


----------



## pioneerisloud

Lol, alright so its only in my sig because I'm currently working on it. But check it out from my profile! I'm EXTREMELY impressed with how silent this puppy is. I can't even hear it! Check out my first mod (in my sig) to see what it looks like essentially. It now has the Jetway 939 board, a Sapphire X550 Silent PCIe card, and the lapped X2 Manny in it. Cool N' Quiet is turned on, and set to go full speed at 60*C...so it'll be silent till it hits that temp! Cable management could be slightly better, but given how tight and small the case is.....I'm impressed.

There will be final pictures of ALL of my rigs including Froggy's rig when our little contest kicks off. Right now I'm just trying to get this one up and finished...its the only one that I'm waiting on. Froggy's rig now has an Opteron 170 LCB9E that's running at 2.7GHz till I can reseat the Big Typhoon (it must be sitting crooked). And my Opty 165 rig is untouched, but I may up it back to 3.0GHz.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Guardian: Mega thanks for the members only drawing! Your generosity is most appreciated and is acknowledged.











no problem at all. I just hope the dang thing still works. I have a feeling he just didn't have the proper computer for it.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Will there be any requirements for winning said 8600GT? I ask because I'm set for GPU's right now...however my HTPC rig could use a slightly higher powered card, and the X550 could be used as a backup. Just figured I'd ask if there's going to be any rules for winning...that's all.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Will there be any requirements for winning said 8600GT? I ask because I'm set for GPU's right now...however my HTPC rig could use a slightly higher powered card, and the X550 could be used as a backup. Just figured I'd ask if there's going to be any rules for winning...that's all.


not sure just yet. First I have to make the video still works. Second I will try and get a hold of the Mods to help set some rules and such. I really would like it to be as fair as possible. That being said,I would like the contest be geared towards ACTIVE members. I think that is only fair.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well of course it should only go towards active members...that's only fair. I was wondering if you were like me and check everyone's rig lists to see if they could actually use the card, or if its just going to be a random giveaway, or oh what the heck does it matter, lol. Its great of you to do this for our little community inside OCN. No matter who the winner is, or the rules.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Well of course it should only go towards active members...that's only fair. I was wondering if you were like me and check everyone's rig lists to see if they could actually use the card, or if its just going to be a random giveaway, or oh what the heck does it matter, lol. Its great of you to do this for our little community inside OCN. No matter who the winner is, or the rules.


I'll have to see what my devious little mind comes up with







...looks for tease smilie


----------



## iandroo888

whaa wheres the rulez >=[ lol my spring break is this week. i want to spend the time to work on it!!! wahh


----------



## pioneerisloud

The judges are all working on the "Official" rules right now. And we're also trying to figure out if this should go into a seperate thread or not. The contest should start sometime this week it looks like.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
The judges are all working on the "Official" rules right now. And we're also trying to figure out if this should go into a seperate thread or not. The contest should start sometime this week it looks like.

Yes. As pioneer has said, the judges are working towards finalizing the rules, as well as deciding on how best to stage the contest.

iandroo, patience!







All will be set right in good time.


----------



## thlnk3r

Joe, can you please add my new 3600+ X2 to the list. It's sole purpose is for my virtuals, domain controller and wsus server: http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=331112

Thanks


----------



## pioneerisloud

Alright thlnk3r....I gotta know how an X2 3600+ Manny overclocks! I hope you keep us posted on that one!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, can you please add my new 3600+ X2 to the list. It's sole purpose is for my virtuals, domain controller and wsus server: http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=331112

Thanks









Done!

Which reminds me... I gotta get back on this overclocking horse and play with some chips!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Lol, I've got three rigs I'm overclocking all at once!

1: My rig - Opty 165 - testing at 3.0GHz 1.39v, RAM @ 214MHz, 2,3,2,6,1T
2: Froggy's rig - Opty 170 - testing at 2.7GHz, 1.42v, RAM @ 200MHz 3,4,4,8,2T
3: Project Silent! - X2 Manny - testing at 2.5GHz, 1.30v, RAM @ 208MHz 3,4,4,8,2T


----------



## iandroo888

wanna send me some chips to play with







lol


----------



## Ultrasonic2 (muffy)

here is my 4600+ at 3000.. i had to run it at 1.6v to achieve this overclock. I had to do a volt mod on the MBM to get the 1.6 volts.. When i cranked up my CPU to 1.6 volts my original 450 watt PSU caught on fire !
I't stable as, and i run it like this all the time .. obviously it's water cooled








Please add me to the list


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Welcome, Ultrasonic2! Glad to have you with us.









Geez... a fiery PSU, huh? Good thing nothing else caught on fire!


----------



## Blitz6804

I have had a motherboard set a processor on fire. It is not fun. That Skt 754 MoBo made me jump to Skt 939 after short order; much shorter than I had my Skt A.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Lol, I've got three rigs I'm overclocking all at once!

1: My rig - Opty 165 - testing at 3.0GHz 1.39v, RAM @ 214MHz, 2,3,2,6,1T
2: Froggy's rig - Opty 170 - testing at 2.7GHz, 1.42v, RAM @ 200MHz 3,4,4,8,2T
3: Project Silent! - X2 Manny - testing at 2.5GHz, 1.30v, RAM @ 208MHz 3,4,4,8,2T


Pioneer, thats quite a project you have there. I don't think I could multi task like that


----------



## GuardianOdin

crap,stupid email jumped ahead and I hit the un-subscribe link...doh!


----------



## Blitz6804

I do not ever subscribe to threads. Instead, I refresh every few minutes like an insane paranoid person.


----------



## Blitz6804

I just added nVidia's latest answer to me. For those not wanting to go back to Post 1091:

Response (David C) 03/18/2008 05:14 PM 
Hello Keith,
Thanks for the feedback. We'll punt your feedback to our engineer team for future consideration. For now, there's no plan to update any future nForce-3 driver.

Best regards,
David


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I do not ever subscribe to threads. Instead, I refresh every few minutes like an insane paranoid person.


it was an accident







I shant ever do it again


----------



## pioneerisloud

Alright, we've got TONS of smart people here at our 939 club, maybe somebody can help me calm down, lol.

Here's the situation:
I was just watching my local FOX channel over the air with a standard antenna. The TV show went really fuzzy, and a Windows XP screen with the "Bliss" desktop came into view, then it went back to the TV show. It was only for a 3-5 seconds or so. Now can somebody PLEASE explain what the heck is going on? I'm not running ANY computers with Windows XP...I have NOTHING wireless, and on top of that....my HTPC rig is in the other room being physically worked on!

Anybody know what happened here? Or am I just going crazy? Froggy (my fiance) saw it as well!


----------



## Blitz6804

With all that you do with computers, I vote the latter...

I would guess it was either 1) Fox having a hiccup, or 2) some punk hackeresque kids decided to test the broadcast hijacking skills.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Alright, we've got TONS of smart people here at our 939 club, maybe somebody can help me calm down, lol.

Here's the situation:
I was just watching my local FOX channel over the air with a standard antenna. The TV show went really fuzzy, and a Windows XP screen with the "Bliss" desktop came into view, then it went back to the TV show. It was only for a 3-5 seconds or so. Now can somebody PLEASE explain what the heck is going on? I'm not running ANY computers with Windows XP...I have NOTHING wireless, and on top of that....my HTPC rig is in the other room being physically worked on!

Anybody know what happened here? Or am I just going crazy? Froggy (my fiance) saw it as well!


You have entered the Twilight Zone...

Sorry, bub. Can't explain that one.

Question: Were you watching TV with your HTPC, or just a regular ol' TV?


----------



## Blitz6804

Regular old TV. His HTPC is in the other room gutted on the work bench. Last I was talking to him, he went on a parts run.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Regular old TV. His HTPC is in the other room gutted on the work bench. Last I was talking to him, he went on a parts run.


Wow.

I wonder if that's a new ad for a "Save XP from obsolescence" petition/campaign?

Either that, or both pioneer and froggy are


----------



## Blitz6804

Very well likely, but are not we all?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Alright, we've got TONS of smart people here at our 939 club, maybe somebody can help me calm down, lol.

Here's the situation:
I was just watching my local FOX channel over the air with a standard antenna. The TV show went really fuzzy, and a Windows XP screen with the "Bliss" desktop came into view, then it went back to the TV show. It was only for a 3-5 seconds or so. Now can somebody PLEASE explain what the heck is going on? I'm not running ANY computers with Windows XP...I have NOTHING wireless, and on top of that....my HTPC rig is in the other room being physically worked on!

Anybody know what happened here? Or am I just going crazy? Froggy (my fiance) saw it as well!

Their programming may have goofed up for a sec


----------



## pioneerisloud

I found out the issue. It's one of a few issues. I called the FOX station to find this out.

1: Somebody near me (my neighbor) uses Clearwire Wireless Internet. It interferes with FOX for some odd reason (almost the same frequency I guess).

2: Somebody near their broadcast station is using Clearwire (more likely than my neighbor).

3: My neighbors have a wireless router and for some odd reason its overpowering my antenna (wouldn't doubt it as my antenna was $5 at the Goodwill, lol).

4: The FOX guys lost the program they were playing on the computer (the TV show), the program must've shut down wrong or something, so they had to restart it (got this information from my best local PC shop).

I believe 1-3 over #4. So it seems I'm not crazy....just that SOMEBODY near me or the broadcasting station is using overpowered wireless, lol.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
To keep everyone updated with nVidia, I have posted all correspondences below. Remember, newest is on top, so if you want proper chronological order, read from the bottom up.

Response (David C) 03/18/2008 05:14 PM
Hello Keith,
Thanks for the feedback. We'll punt your feedback to our engineer team for future consideration. For now, there's no plan to update any future nForce-3 driver.

Best regards,
David

Customer (Keith *******) 03/17/2008 11:15 AM
This problem CAN be resolved via a new nForce driver. The last version (5.11) was, if I recall, over two years ago. It would not be a problem to either 1) release a Vista-version of nForce drivers or 2) release the source code to permit enthusists to do the same. If I need to buy a new motherboard, I can insure you that it will not be nVidia based.

According to the Windows Experience Index:

CPU 5.3 (Core1 disabled)
RAM 5.1
Graphics 5.9
Gaming Graphics 5.9
Hard Drive 5.9

If I re-enable Core1, the CPU score goes to 5.8. I have three out of five categories with the highest score presently available with Vista, and so, a new motherboard would be a waste of my time and money. This entire situation shows itself to be a ploy by your marketing department to force people into unneeded upgrades.

Please either release a Vista driver or permit third parties to do the same.

Response (David C) 03/17/2008 10:51 AM
Hello Keith,
This issue will not be resolve via drivers and SBIOS updates. There are no solution at this time. The only workaround is to use a single CPU or upgrade your motherboard.

Best regards,
David

Response (IS) 03/16/2008 05:28 PM
Hello Keith,

Thank you for contacting NVIDIA Customer Care.

Your case is being escalated to our Level 2 Tech Support group. The Level 2 agents will have to review the case notes. As this process may take some time we ask that you be patient and a Level 2 tech will contact you as soon as they can, to help you with your issue.

Best Regards,
NVIDIA Customer Care

Customer (Keith *******) 03/16/2008 01:54 PM
I have a Gigabyte GA-K8NSC-939 (Skt939, nForce3), an AMD 4400+ X2, and a Sapphire Radeon HD 3850 AGP 512 MB. The whole setup worked beautifuly in Windows Experience. I installed Windows Vista today, and cannot get my video card to work properly. I do not have a Code 43 error as in issue 2041, and yet, if I try to use both cores of my processor, the ATI driver is disabled. I need to get Vista to work to utilize the DirectX 10.1 capabilities of my video card.

Please let me know how much longer it will take for a Hotfix for this, as research has shown that it has been promised since February, 2007. I need this computer to last me until I graduate, at which point, I am intending to buy a Quad-SLI system, but if nVidia shows that they refuse to support competitors' components (since the issue I am having is absent if I were to use an nVidia graphics card) I will need to consider a Quad-Crossfire instead. Research has shown that SiS and VIA also had this problem, but both of those manufacturers have already fixed it.

the bottom line is : they dont really care about outdated chipsets , they wont release another driver for nf3 , that tech guy "punted" it right into the trash bin


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Alright, we've got TONS of smart people here at our 939 club, maybe somebody can help me calm down, lol.

Here's the situation:
I was just watching my local FOX channel over the air with a standard antenna. The TV show went really fuzzy, and a Windows XP screen with the "Bliss" desktop came into view, then it went back to the TV show. It was only for a 3-5 seconds or so. Now can somebody PLEASE explain what the heck is going on? I'm not running ANY computers with Windows XP...I have NOTHING wireless, and on top of that....my HTPC rig is in the other room being physically worked on!

Anybody know what happened here? Or am I just going crazy? Froggy (my fiance) saw it as well!

"ALIENS"


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
"ALIENS"



















Maybe, boonie, maybe...


----------



## jbua5150

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I had the same problem with my computer: Orthos would run for 30 seconds or so, then give me a rounding error.

Changing my HTT multi from 4 to 3 and upping my RAM from 2.5 V to 2.7 V made me 12+ hours Orthos stable. I wish you luck at wrangling her in!


i will give that a try.
well looks like i need intel quad core to fully use these vid cards. 3dmark06 scores are almost identical to not sli scores!


----------



## iandroo888

rawr wheres da rulez fo da contest


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


rawr wheres da rulez fo da contest










An eager beaver, if i ever saw one.









thlnk3r has one last step to do before we get the ball rolling on it. But soon...

Very very soon...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

My apologies for the double post, but we have a new member: Please welcome serioussam.









Roster has been updated to reflect the addition.


----------



## thlnk3r

Welcome Serioussam. If you need any help feel free to ask


----------



## GuardianOdin

welcome Serioussam!


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


the bottom line is : they dont really care about outdated chipsets , they wont release another driver for nf3 , that tech guy "punted" it right into the trash bin










That is what I am figuring. Regardless, I still hope that enough people create a big enough stink to get it to change. If it is not done in a few more days, I will have a VIA motherboard, and I guess it will be mute. Again I say, if the VIA motherboard works with Vista, I will be selling my GA-K8NSC-939 and 3700+ San Diego.

EDIT: The scheduled delivery date is tomorrow. However, it is on the truck today for delivery. There is a chance I will be getting the board today. If so, I do not know if I should install it tonight or tomorrow, I will need to wait and see how I feel after class.


----------



## serioussam

hey thanks for welcoming me into this elite club!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


That is what I am figuring. Regardless, I still hope that enough people create a big enough stink to get it to change. If it is not done in a few more days, I will have a VIA motherboard, and I guess it will be mute. Again I say, if the VIA motherboard works with Vista, I will be selling my GA-K8NSC-939 and 3700+ San Diego.

EDIT: The scheduled delivery date is tomorrow. However, it is on the truck today for delivery. There is a chance I will be getting the board today. If so, I do not know if I should install it tonight or tomorrow, I will need to wait and see how I feel after class.


I hope that there are no compatibility issues with VIA and Vista, blitz. I wish you the best of luck! And you'll be one of the few and brave to OC with a VIA chipset.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *serioussam*


hey thanks for welcoming me into this elite club!


Thank YOU for joining us, serioussam. We simply want to demonstrate that, even in the ever-fluctuating and fickle world we PC enthusiasts and overclockers inhabit, there are bona-fide *CLASSICS* that simply do much better at staving off functional obsolencence.


----------



## Blitz6804

The board is in and I am installing Windows now. To me, overclocking is less important than getting dual core and DirectX 10. The two nice things about this: my HT can finally be 1000, and there is SATA-300 support. Vista installed in about 1/3 of the time even though this is stock and before I was overclocked with SATA-150.


----------



## svtfmook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Please welcome our newest member, svtfmook!

Great job on those Opteron 165s! Are those two different CPUs, or the same one? I added both so that they are next to your name on the club roster.


it's the same. it's also on air. they stay cool, even under load.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *svtfmook*


it's the same. it's also on air. they stay cool, even under load.


Ahhhh... that's a sweet chip you've got there, then.


----------



## Blitz6804

Everything worked fine, with one caveat: my CPU is overvolting. I am on the phone with Asus now to figure out why, since there is no setting to stop that.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


That is what I am figuring. Regardless, I still hope that enough people create a big enough stink to get it to change. If it is not done in a few more days, I will have a VIA motherboard, and I guess it will be mute. Again I say, if the VIA motherboard works with Vista, I will be selling my GA-K8NSC-939 and 3700+ San Diego.

EDIT: The scheduled delivery date is tomorrow. However, it is on the truck today for delivery. There is a chance I will be getting the board today. If so, I do not know if I should install it tonight or tomorrow, I will need to wait and see how I feel after class.


good luck to you


----------



## Blitz6804

Good news: Vista works.
Bad news: As Joe implicated, my overclockability is going to be very limited. At present, my Windows Experience Index is:

CPU: 4.9
Memory: 4.5
Graphics: 5.9
Gaming Graphics: 5.9
Hard Drive: 5.9

System is:

Clock: 2200 MHz @ 1.40 V
HT: 1000 MHz HT
RAM: 314 MHz @ 2.5 V, 2-3-3-6


----------



## Poser

"Blitz stop your bellyaching... sheesh, and quit running antiquated tech and wondering why nvidia won't support it. Just by more NVIDIA gear and get with the times man..."

.... J/K....

But thats pretty much what I took away from the dialogue you had with the nvidia reps

My suggestion, before you dump the board.... (just to prove the bastids wrong) is to check Nforcershq and search for fernando's posts... he usually cooks up some nice modded chipset drivers for legacy chipsets...(nf3 nf2 etc...)


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, I looked. There is no Vista support.

Oh well.

I would rather have dual-core / DirectX10 than a healthy overclock with one core.


----------



## Poser

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Yeah, I looked. There is no Vista support.

Oh well.

I would rather have dual-core / DirectX10 than a healthy overclock with one core.

I refuse to allow you to accept defeat at the hands of the corporate horde...

I am officially on the case and will see if I can dig something up


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, the motherboard is already swapped out and the case buttoned up.

What you can do is see if you can find a modded BIOS for the Asus A8V-X to allow me to actually mess with the clocks. PCI-Lock and Voltage adjustments would be nice.


----------



## pioneerisloud

That's a really odd issue you had Blitz. I used to have an nforce3 chipset motherboard, socket 939, and it worked just fine in Vista. The computer never was stable because I couldn't figure out the stupid BIOS (DFI FTL). However it DID work just fine in Vista. I'm curious to know what your chipset problem was.


----------



## Poser

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
That's a really odd issue you had Blitz. I used to have an nforce3 chipset motherboard, socket 939, and it worked just fine in Vista. The computer never was stable because I couldn't figure out the stupid BIOS _*(DFI FTL)*_. However it DID work just fine in Vista. I'm curious to know what your chipset problem was.







































(I just experienced the full range of emotions with that... but I still like you







)


----------



## pioneerisloud

Ok, fine. So maybe it wasn't DFI's fault. I think that the motherboard in question just really didn't like dual core CPU's...or my dual core CPU, lol. That's more than likely the issue I was having. The previous owner had a single core Sandy in it clocked at 2.8GHz. I was unable to get the Manny X2 3800 past anything stock...even stock was unstable at times. Go figure, lol.


----------



## iandroo888

any progress on the contest? my spring break is approx 1/2 over. hoping to do something for the contest during break.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
any progress on the contest? my spring break is approx 1/2 over. hoping to do something for the contest during break.

Contest update: We have one LAST hurdle to clear before we get this rolling. We need to get this thing rubber-stamped and blessed by the mods, which is why we haven't made any moves to go forward. But the rules package and everything else are settled. We only need final approval.

Get those photos ready! It's almost go-time!

(And iandroo, thanks for bearing with us here. I know you're REALLY chomping at the bit!)


----------



## iandroo888

*chomps on drill bit* oh wait was that just a figure of speech? ow.

i have some ideas on what to do but not sure. not going to do anything extreme but just to make it look nice. maybe ill do a live current thru thin copper pipes! YEAH RIGHT @[email protected] lol.

on the other hand. i just lapped my FX-60. hope it improves on temperatures. think i still need to work on air circulation. the last stress test i ran (before lap) hit 68 - 70C !! that freaked me out! oh man. i was like.. OH CRAP *stops it*

hmm man i need some more fan controllers.. like.. maybe two 6-fan controllers...


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
That's a really odd issue you had Blitz. I used to have an nforce3 chipset motherboard, socket 939, and it worked just fine in Vista. The computer never was stable because I couldn't figure out the stupid BIOS (DFI FTL). However it DID work just fine in Vista. I'm curious to know what your chipset problem was.

The nForce3 chipset cannot use Vista, Dual Core, and a non-nVidia AGP video card. If you have an ATI video card and a dual core processor, it will never initialize. If you use a single core processor or a dual core with one core shut off, it will work fine. If you have an nVidia video card, some will work natively, others will have the AGP GART set at 4x and it takes an hour or so to make it 8x, but it will work.


----------



## Blitz6804

After contacting AMD about my overvolt issue, I was told that 1.41 V is fine, but not to let it go any higher.

They also provided this interesting link:

http://products.amd.com/en-us/Deskto...ail.aspx?id=70


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
After contacting AMD about my overvolt issue, I was told that 1.41 V is fine, but not to let it go any higher.

They also provided this interesting link:

http://products.amd.com/en-us/Deskto...ail.aspx?id=70

I likely missed it, but please describe your overvolting issue.







Does your new motherboard not allow you to adjust the VCore to a level you choose?

Just as an aside, AMD's recommendation assumes no overclocking be done on the chip. For stock performance, that voltage level actually will result in elevated operating temperatures. (Interestingly, Asus also seems to think that 1.4V is the stock/default VCore for S939 chips for the A8N32-SLI Deluxe.) For OCing, though, 1.41V on some chips can be more than enough for up to around 2.8GHz.







(Like the chip in my sig rig; it runs 2.8GHz comfortably and with excellent stability on 1.37V VCore.)

Thanks for the link, as well!


----------



## Blitz6804

You can guess and check to find your specific processor.

The A8V-X has no voltage control options. It is essentially a more-restrictive version of the A8V. The voltage is locked at 1.40 Â± 0.01 V. I cannot change it. My only over-clocking options are RAM timings and the FSB. Even the multiplier is unadjustable.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
You can guess and check to find your specific processor.

The A8V-X has no voltage control options. It is essentially a more-restrictive version of the A8V. The voltage is locked at 1.40 Â± 0.01 V. I cannot change it. My only over-clocking options are RAM timings and the FSB. Even the multiplier is unadjustable.

I see.

Bummer.


----------



## Blitz6804

I wonder if the A8V BIOS would work on the A8V-X... Does anyone know about that?

I supposedly have a "crash-free" BIOS, meaning it is possible to re-write my own BIOS in case I accidentally delete it.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I wonder if the A8V BIOS would work on the A8V-X... Does anyone know about that?

I supposedly have a "crash-free" BIOS, meaning it is possible to re-write my own BIOS in case I accidentally delete it.

I've come across many stories of users being able to successfully "cross-flash" BIOSes from superior boards of the same family onto an inferior board.

Examples:

Biostar: TForce 6100-939/M9 BIOS onto the GeForce 6100-939/M9
Asus: A8N-SLI Premium to A8N-SLI (non-Premium)

However, I have to say that I am very leery about cross-flashing. The rewards for the risks are not big enough to justify the move.

I don't want a dead board by choice...


----------



## Blitz6804

The biggest issue for me right now is getting the sound card working. I keep getting an error message saying it could not initialize because it cannot find enough system resources to work. I am going to try a different PCI slot when I get home.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
The biggest issue for me right now is getting the sound card working. I keep getting an error message saying it could not initialize because it cannot find enough system resources to work. I am going to try a different PCI slot when I get home.

Keep at it, blitz.

And good luck to you, always.


----------



## thlnk3r

I did some searches for "a8v-x modded bios" and the results weren't pleasing


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
The biggest issue for me right now is getting the sound card working. I keep getting an error message saying it could not initialize because it cannot find enough system resources to work. I am going to try a different PCI slot when I get home.

Blitz, are you running the latest drivers for your X-Fi card? I've read a lot of compability issues with the X-Fi cards and Vista. Apparently the problems were solved with new driver releases.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I cannot install the drivers because the card will not initialize. The card worked perfectly with my Gigabyte in Vista; pity that was all that worked.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hopefully assigning the card to a different PCI slot is a successful fix.

Keep us posted, blitz!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I cannot install the drivers because the card will not initialize. The card worked perfectly with my Gigabyte in Vista; pity that was all that worked.


Blitz, do you have an extra PCI sound card that you can test with just so we can see whether or not it's the X-fi or if it's an IRQ conflict?

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I know it is not the X-Fi. Like I said, it worked fine on the Gigabyte. I am sure it is an IRQ conflict, and there is no way to adjust which slot gets which IRQ.

I will be trying it in a different slot, but the disadvantage is that my PCI-slot cooler will not fit between it and the video card.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I know it is not the X-Fi. Like I said, it worked fine on the Gigabyte. I am sure it is an IRQ conflict, and there is no way to adjust which slot gets which IRQ.

I will be trying it in a different slot, but the disadvantage is that my PCI-slot cooler will not fit between it and the video card.


Blitz, we understand the X-Fi worked fine in the GA board, we just wanted to eliminate that problem from the picture by testing with another PCI sound card. If you don't have a spare then that is fine.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I have a spare SoundBlaster in my Dad's donated Dell. I can try that too when I get home. I am actually in class right now.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I have a spare SoundBlaster in my Dad's donated Dell. I can try that too when I get home. I am actually in class right now.


Blitz, no problem. Let us know how it goes. Hopefully we can get your issue squared away and get you up and running 100%


----------



## Blitz6804

I just wish that nVidia was not acting like M$ and had just put out drivers.

Then I would already have been up and running 100%.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Okay, Socket 939 Appreciation Club and Knowledgebase members, here's an update on our Club-exclusive Case Management Contest:

We have been given the green light to proceed with our contest! Thanks to The Duke and Taeric, we can have our very first intra-club contest.

The contest will be done on a separate thread which will be marked explicitly as only for the contest. I will be creating this thread imminently in the AMD General section, so keep your eyes open. The thread will contain all the rules for the contest, so go there and post your entries in accordance with the rules.

So, club members, we hope to see as many of our members participating and having lots of fun with this.

And please thank The Duke and Taeric whenever you have a chance to do so for their time and generosity with this!


----------



## Blitz6804

I am on the phone with Asus. No matter what I plug into PCI slots, the do not show. This occurs both in Windows and Linux.

Accordingly, it looks like the PCI slots are dead.

EDIT: TigerDirect is going to RMA the board. I already ordered another from another vendor. And of course, only after I do so do I find a place that sells the A8V (no X).


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I am on the phone with Asus. No matter what I plug into PCI slots, the do not show. This occurs both in Windows and Linux.

Accordingly, it looks like the PCI slots are dead.

EDIT: TigerDirect is going to RMA the board. I already ordered another from another vendor. And of course, only after I do so do I find a place that sells the A8V (no X).


Blitz, well at least you are able to RMA the motherboard. Hopefully the replacement works. Good thing we ruled out the X-Fi being bad


----------



## Blitz6804

They better have taken it back... it is two days old!

And I decided against getting another one. I am going to RMA this one, put back my Gigabyte, and just use XP. The onboard sound doesn't even work!


----------



## Blitz6804

What is a PCI Latency Timer? Could that have something to do with the PCI card not working? The Gigabyte is set to 32 CLK, the Asus is set to 64 CLK.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


What is a PCI Latency Timer? Could that have something to do with the PCI card not working? The Gigabyte is set to 32 CLK, the Asus is set to 64 CLK.


Below is what I got from: http://www.techarp.com/showfreebog.a...ng=0&bogno=138

Hope this helps









Quote:



This BIOS feature controls how long a PCI device can hold the PCI bus before another takes over. The longer the latency, the longer the PCI device can retain control of the bus before handing it over to another PCI device.

Normally, the PCI Latency Timer is set to 32 cycles. This means the active PCI device has to complete its transactions within 32 clock cycles or hand it over to the next PCI device.

For better PCI performance, a longer latency should be used. Try increasing it to 64 cycles or even 128 cycles. The optimal value for every system is different. You should benchmark your PCI cards' performance after each change to determine the optimal PCI latency time for your system.

Please note that a longer PCI latency isn't necessarily better. A long latency can also reduce performance as the other PCI devices queuing up may be stalled for too long. This is especially true with systems with many PCI devices or PCI devices that continuously write short bursts of data to the PCI bus. Such systems would work better with shorter PCI latencies as they allow rapid access to the PCI bus.

In addition, some time-critical PCI devices may not agree with a long latency. Such devices require priority access to the PCI bus which may not be possible if the PCI bus is held up by another device for a long period. In such cases, it is recommended that you keep to the default PCI latency of 32 cycles.


----------



## Blitz6804

I do not know, I guess that was not the problem. The device that couldn't get system resources was the AC97. Even disabled in the BIOS, Vista found it. Yet, plug in a PCI device, and forget it!

I knew I should have just left the computer alone. Oh well, live and learn. I guess I am going to restart my quest to get 3 GHz on stock voltage!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I do not know, I guess that was not the problem. The device that couldn't get system resources was the AC97. Even disabled in the BIOS, Vista found it. Yet, plug in a PCI device, and forget it!

I knew I should have just left the computer alone. Oh well, live and learn. I guess I am going to restart my quest to get 3 GHz on stock voltage!


Blitz, did you try Windows XP on the A8V-X to see if the same problem happens?
I'm really curious...

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

No, I tried Ubuntu Linux 7.10 Dapper Drake and it also did not find any PCI devices.

While I will be keeping my motherboard, I will be still selling my 3700+ San Diego:

ADA3700DAA5BN
KAB2E 0547DPFW
1369189L50609

I used it from 01/11/2006 until approximately May, 2007. It was ran at 2211 MHz its entire career because of a fault of Gigabyte motherboard: 200 MHz BIOS = 201 MHz Operating system. I still have the original packaging, bundled heat sink, and instruction manual / certificate of authenticity. It was never lapped, and only seated once. Private message me if you are interested.

*Waits for Joe's message.*

DUDE! I cannot believe this! When I bought the processor 26 months ago as a cheap processor, it was $307. To get a modern, Socket AM2, 2.2 GHz processor is $37. That same $307 can buy you an AM2+ Phenom 2.3 GHz black box and a darn good air cooler.

Craziness.


----------



## Blitz6804

For any who want to help out myself and many others, sign the nForce 3 Driver Petition!


----------



## Firestorm252

mind if i sign up?


----------



## Blitz6804

Absolutely!

Pah, bounty hunters. We don't need their kind of scum!

Just kidding... Welcome to the club!


----------



## Blitz6804

Quick update: Since installing Cool-n-Quiet, my computer could not stay in windows for more than a few minutes. Upon close inspection of the BIOS, I found my tRC was set to 10. When I was OCNS5 stable before the HDD change, it was set to 19. I just set it to 19 again and am running OCCT v2 as I type. So far, 10 minutes sans incident.

Also interesting to note, I can actually boot with HT = 4*250. Maybe for me, tRC will be the key to getting to 3.0 GHz.

I doubt it, but I can dream. So far, any and all attempts to boot at FSB >250 have resulted in the machine refusing to POST.

While I am asking, I have several choices for RAM Refresh Rate (tRef):

100, 133, 166, or 200 MHz
15.6 us, 7.6 us, or 3.9 us

Default from the SPD (200 FSB, 3-3-3-7-2T) is 166 MHz 7.6 us.

Should this setting be tweaked? If so, to what extent and direction?

And to Poser: my async is presently 7ns. Should I leave this be until I start hitting a wall? Would you recommend moving it now?


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Firestorm252* 
mind if i sign up?


















WELCOME TO THE "DARKSIDE" FIRESTORM


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Thanks, pioneer. And for sure you can be part of the judging panel; I think thlnk3r would agree as well. It'd be good to have a third vote, to break a 1:1 tie, don't you think?










AHHH!!! WAIT this would mean I wouldn't be eligable for bragging rights since my fiance is one of the judges







oh well I guess, I probably dont compare well with some of the setups in here...

UPDATE: when pioneer wakes up finally... he is going to help me attempt to OC my opty, since im an OC nOOb.. currently its in the rig, havent updated sig rig yet, and slightly OC'd but i wanna try to get a better one...currently its clocked at 2700 MHz with x9 multi and 300 fsb... do ya guys think its possible to get this denmark 170 any higher and still be stable? let me know if you need more info I will be more than happy to give whats needed for help.


----------



## NeRoToXeN

Wouldn't you think that there would be more 3700's? I mean they are a superb overclocker if you find the right stepping am I right?


----------



## Blitz6804

I think you should overclock without Pioneer. All he is, well, erhm... loud.

Would it be correct for me to say that there is a 10x multiplier on that? Might you consider 275x10 and move up from there?

Just kidding with the joke Pioneer.


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I think you should overclock without Pioneer. All he is, well, erhm... loud.

Would it be correct for me to say that there is a 10x multiplier on that? Might you consider 275x10 and move up from there?

Just kidding with the joke Pioneer.


i would attempt to OC without pioneer but I am clueless once in bios... he's attempting to teach me, but he's not always the best teacher. but SHHHH i didnt say that...


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *froggy1986*


i would attempt to OC without pioneer but I am clueless once in bios... he's attempting to teach me, but he's not always the best teacher. but SHHHH i didnt say that...


Sure you did. There is now an indelible record above me...

So far, I have found BIOSes to be fairly straight-forward, but I respect your valor, since it is the likely end product of your discretion.

At present, my CPU is up to an hour in Orthos. I am debating if I should let it run 12+ to reestablish the possibly arbitrary OCNS5 rating, or instead, stop it, restart it, and see if it lasts another hour.

Poser, WHERE ARE YOU!? I NEED YOU!


----------



## froggy1986

Here's the proof for where I currently sit. BTW pioneer is finally up so the process begins.


----------



## Blitz6804

I have no idea what the RAM Refresh Rate is, but changing it seems to have worked.

I took the following screenshot WHILE ORTHOS 9 BLEND IS STILL RUNNING, and then transfered to my laptop for upload:

Click me to expand to the full 1920x1200


For SpeedFan in the corner: Temp2 is Core0, Core is Core1. HD1 is my WD 80 SATA, and HD2 is my Hitachi 750 SATA.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Hey txtmstrjoe....add my new HTPC rig to the roster! I'll PM you a CPUz validation in a few. Here's what its doing...and the proof will be sent soon enough:

AMD Athlon X2 3800+ Manchester (Lapped) @ 2.00GHz, 1.20v
2x512MB Samsung Generic DDR400 @ 200Mhz, 2.5,3,3,8,2T (stock of 3,4,4,10,2T)
Jetway 939GT SLI motherboard
Foxconn 7600GT PCIe
Master Power 520w Modular PSU
HTPC case

Like I said, I'll be PM'ing you a validation link in a few. Its installing COD4 right now, because its also going to be a FEAR/COD4 game server, as well as my HTPC rig.

Also....after I've got that all up and going, I'm going to ATTEMPT a 100-200MHz overclock on it. Just something small. I want to leave the voltage at 1.20v, and keep Cool N' Quiet on. That's why I wasn't able to hit 2.5GHz with it in this board. Cool N' Quiet! I totally forgot. But I think a 200MHz overclock should be attainable with that voltage







. I'll keep you updated.

Oh, and I was an idiot. It passed the 12 hour mark on Orthos blended at the above settings. I got excited and clicked it off so I could finish installing it. If I *HAVE* to, I can run it again







. You'll just have to believe me that its there, lol. Have I steered you guys wrong in the past?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Update on Froggy's rig:
The reasoning behind me using the 9x multiplier was so I could get the RAM as close to 200MHz as possible. She's running 4 sticks of 512 generic. I'm going to attempt to teach her the basics in her own BIOS....that way she can learn what these functions do.


----------



## iandroo888

anyone know why im hitting 70C on 200 x 14 from FX-60? 1.4v.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
anyone know why im hitting 70C on 200 x 14 from FX-60? 1.4v.

may need to reseat the heatsink,all fans working 100% ?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
anyone know why im hitting 70C on 200 x 14 from FX-60? 1.4v.

Like I've told ya before....FX chips run hot.


----------



## froggy1986

Okay, I'm currently running Orthos, and when it starts to stress the CPU the core temps are anywhere from 9-13 degrees apart but only under load, when not on load the temps are only a few degrees apart, does anyone know why this may be??? WELL orthos ran 19 minutes at 2.808 so we are going to ATTEMPT to OC higher....will check back in a few..


----------



## Blitz6804

If you can keep the voltage at 1.20 V AND turn on CnQ, thats good for you!

The only way I can use CnQ is if I keep stock voltage and 11x mutliplier. Change either, and the processor gets locked full on.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz, nice setup









What kind of numbers are you getting with that 3850 AGP? 3DMark06 wise?

I will bet you thought I forgot about you...

WRONG!

I just ran 3DMark06 on my laptop and got a 2952. For the record, the maximum temperature reached by the core was 70ÂºC. That is why I do not use this laptop on my lap. If a T7700 Merom with a Mobility Radeon HD 2600 (drivered as a HD 2600 Pro), it should be easy right?

Turns out, it is!

The desktop got a 7216! That is an improvement of approximately 4500 PC Marks over my X1950XGE with the processor at stock. What is more, it never went over 43ÂºC! I think the thermal compound is finally starting to set.

{EDIT: returning it to stock clocks gives me a 6537. Thus, the 25% overclock gives me 679 3D Marks and the upgraded video card gives me 3395 over my X1950XGE. Now you all know.}

Now if only I can fix the random spazzing out...

It ran every single test sans diffaculty. Right after it finished, I blue-screened again. (-_-)


----------



## justin146

This is my old Opteron 165 system that my fiancee uses. I just happened to find a screenshot. Its not much of an overclock, but the system ran at about 2.3Ghz while I used it. I could never get it to boot with anything higher; I blame it on the Ram. This is the one I built the circuit board case for.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


may need to reseat the heatsink,all fans working 100% ?


yes

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Like I've told ya before....FX chips run hot.


didnt expect that hot @[email protected] whats a safe temp to keep it at?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


didnt expect that hot @[email protected] whats a safe temp to keep it at?


Well its all about what you consider safe. My Manny hit 85*C on its warmer core, but the cooler core was only 55*C or so. I do believe 65*C is the thermal spec on it.....it might just be 72*C since its an FX.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


anyone know why im hitting 70C on 200 x 14 from FX-60? 1.4v.


Iandroo, have you confirmed this by using several other different applications for temperature monitoring? The fx-60 is virtually (well is) the same as the Opteron 1xx series. Toledo/Denmark are the same, same TDP ect. So this kind of confuses me.

Is this cooler lapped? What is the room ambient?

Good luck


----------



## iandroo888

yeah. not sure what room ambient is. my opty 165 is idling at 25/36C


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Geez, I'm out a whole day, and I miss so much excitement!









Let's see how well I can remember all this.









Firestorm52, welcome to the club! We're happy to have you, and I've added you to our official roster on the first page of the thread.









Thanks to boonie2 and blitz for being the welcome wagon.







It's a friendly club we have, yes?









blitz, good to see you exploring some avenues in your OC that may not have occurred to some (including me, I'll admit). It takes tons of patience and testing to really go after your RAM settings when eking out every single MHz from your chip. That kind of gumption deserves applause.









To froggy and everyone else, of course you're eligible to participate in the Club-exclusive Case Management Contest! You're a member of this here club, yes? Don't worry about pioneer's impartiality; I'm sure he's got enough honor to be a good and worthy judge. Just take your pictures, and post them in the exclusive (and OFFICIALLY APPROVED) thread for our contest, and we'll see where the chips may fall.









froggy, pioneer is a good teacher. But his real secret for having a great OC is a killer golden chip.







Just kidding. For sure, though, this club (and OCN, for that matter) has got lots of experienced hands with S939 OCing, so as long as you're a willing student, there are many willing teachers.









NeRoToXeN, it's not really a big surprise why there aren't too many A64 3700+s, or other single-core CPUs for that matter, still floating around. The world has gone multi-core, with duals being the sweet spot insofar as cost and usability in available software are concerned. But it's possible that I might be getting my original S939 CPU, a 3700+ Sandy, back from my best friend (he'll be getting a dual-core Opteron in exchange); you can bet I'll be OCing that chip (I never ever did, believe it or not), just to see what it can do.

justin146 mentioned his circuit board case; you can see it in the Club's Case Management Contest thread. justin146 and iandroo and Fusion Racing need more competition, so fill that thread up, y'all!

iandroo, 70 degs temp at load is on the high side. The fact that you're just on 1.4V VCore suggests that the HSF seat isn't as good as it can be. Or it can be improper TIM application. Or it can be poor air flow to your HSF. Or it can be a combination of any of these factors, or all of them, even. I'd start by studying my case's air flow pattern and also if the case is indeed taking in sufficient air; then I'd check my HSF seat. Finally, I'd never ever take for granted the TIM application. This last factor is almost always the key to better heat dissipation.

Phew! I hope I didn't forget anyone.

Oh, and to Guardian:







I hope you're over the flu, buddy!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Yes, you forgot to add my HTPC rig to the roster!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Yes, you forgot to add my HTPC rig to the roster!


No, I didn't.

I thought you said you'll be giving me a CPU-Z validation for it.









I don't got that yet.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


No, I didn't.

I thought you said you'll be giving me a CPU-Z validation for it.









I don't got that yet.










OH!!! Forgot about that part







. Working on finalizing the overclock on her now. She's at:

CPU:
225FSB x 10
4x HT Link
1.25v
2.25GHz total clock speed

RAM:
187MHz (DDR374) (stock DDR400)
2.5,3,3,7,2t (stock 3,4,4,10,2T)
2.65v

I'll work on a validation once I confirm she's stable







.


----------



## iandroo888

not sure what problem is. temps hang at mid to high 50s when case horizontal and side panel open. this heatsink uses a two clamp mount that hooks onto 4 hoops on the corners of the mounting frame. its actually more secure than my hyper tx2 in my main rig imo. lol


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Alright, folks, listen up:

thlnk3r has decided to juice up our Club-exclusive Case Management Contest.

Because he's such a great and stand-up kind of guy, he has raised the ante for the contest.

If you have checked out our contest thread, then you'll know that we have a small prize for the first place winner. Well, that small prize will now be awarded instead to both the second and third place winner.

So what does the winner get? thlnk3r will be awarding his old case, a CoolerMaster RC-631, to the winner. Moreover, thlnk3r will be footing the cost of shipping for this case to any contest winner who lives in the ConUSA (continental USA). It's not brand new, but knowing thlnk3r the way I do (and you've all seen pictures of his lapping jobs, I hope), the case hasn't been abused or wrecked. You'll be getting a well-cared for hand-me-down. And thlnk3r says he's happy to give it to someone who will use his old case well.

So, what further incentive do you need? Snap those photos and post them. You've got nothing to lose, and a case to win if you take it all!









(Cross-posted in the Contest thread, FYI.)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


not sure what problem is. temps hang at mid to high 50s when case horizontal and side panel open. this heatsink uses a two clamp mount that hooks onto 4 hoops on the corners of the mounting frame. its actually more secure than my hyper tx2 in my main rig imo. lol


What cooler are you using on the FX-60?


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Alright, folks, listen up:

thlnk3r has decided to juice up our Club-exclusive Case Management Contest.

Because he's such a great and stand-up kind of guy, he has raised the ante for the contest.

If you have checked out our contest thread, then you'll know that we have a small prize for the first place winner. Well, that small prize will now be awarded instead to both the second and third place winner.

So what does the winner get? thlnk3r will be awarding his old case, a CoolerMaster RC-631, to the winner. Moreover, thlnk3r will be footing the cost of shipping for this case to any contest winner who lives in the ConUSA (continental USA). It's not brand new, but knowing thlnk3r the way I do (and you've all seen pictures of his lapping jobs, I hope), the case hasn't been abused or wrecked. You'll be getting a well-cared for hand-me-down. And thlnk3r says he's happy to give it to someone who will use his old case well.

So, what further incentive do you need? Snap those photos and post them. You've got nothing to lose, and a case to win if you take it all!









(Cross-posted in the Contest thread, FYI.)


sweet! *snaps some more photos*

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


What cooler are you using on the FX-60?


Cooler Master Hyper 48. lol i almost said i didnt know what it was then i remembered i found it and told pioneerisloud. rofl. so i looked in msg history.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


Cooler Master Hyper 48. lol i almost said i didnt know what it was then i remembered i found it and told pioneerisloud. rofl. so i looked in msg history.


Hmm... I've never used that HSF before. Am reading a review on it right now.

Perhaps it's possible that the CM Hyper 48 isn't really up to the job of cooling a highly-overclocked dual-core S939? Why do I say this? The heatsink was released before 2005, and therefore the advent of AMD dual-core CPUs. Its thermal cooling limits, then, are far lower because they are not engineered to handle the higher heat output of dual-core CPUs like your FX-60.


----------



## iandroo888

hmm as long as i keep case horizontal. temps are fine. hehe


----------



## MjrTom

Iv'e been roadtesting my new 10.1MP Canon Eos 40D and here are some of the photos













































(Resized to save space)
Larger ones here: http://www.overclock.net/gallery/sho.../21241/cat/500


----------



## pioneerisloud

Dude, that rig looks AMAZING! I don't know if its the new camera or just a sweet rig, lol. Don't forget to post some pictures in our little contest







.


----------



## iandroo888

oOo the EOS 40D is realy nice. had the pleasure of playing with one 2 weeks ago! pictures came out great @ my cousins wedding! There also were Nikon D40s there too! Lots of different lens was used! also a polarizer lens too! works really good! too bad i dont have one myself. would love to have one though. those SLR cameras are SO good with taking pictures containing lights too!


----------



## MjrTom

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
oOo the EOS 40D is realy nice. had the pleasure of playing with one 2 weeks ago! pictures came out great @ my cousins wedding! There also were Nikon D40s there too! Lots of different lens was used! also a polarizer lens too! works really good! too bad i dont have one myself. would love to have one though. those SLR cameras are SO good with taking pictures containing lights too!

Yeah it is a lovelly camera to use and a great replacement for my compact Fujifilm digital camera and my EOS30 35mm film camera.

The pictures this 40D produce are so sharp. The pictures above were taken using a tripod and exposures of >1 second @ 100 ISO so that natural daylight could be used to maintain a natural colour balance (less image post processing)

Will grab a few more pics this evening when the internal case lighting is more prominantly visible.









Thanks for the comments, much appreciated!


----------



## iandroo888

sounds good! what lens are you using on the 40D?


----------



## Salku

yo, i got a Phoenix, 3800+ S939, oh yeah, buddy. NOTHING, but stock


----------



## MjrTom

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


sounds good! what lens are you using on the 40D?


For these shots I used this one: Canon EF-S 17-85mm f/4-5.6 IS USM


----------



## Marager

EH
WOOT
i got a socket 939 right here and im not a memba? im insulted! :S :S
it pwns all my friends P4's :S to ASH's :R


----------



## pioneerisloud

To you new guys.....we'll need to see a CPUz validation link or a screenshot, and you'll be added to the roster







.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Marager*


EH
WOOT
i got a socket 939 right here and im not a memba? im insulted! :S :S
it pwns all my friends P4's :S to ASH's :R


Dont procrastinate------------VALIDATE


----------



## Blitz6804

Okay, I am having a really annoying issue. Every time I boot my PC, I get a thing popping up to pick which operating system to boot:

Windows Experience Home
Windows (Default)

The latter is what opens after 30s. That Windows does not exist. I have tried modifying the Boot.ini without any change. I have tried FixMBR without any change. Any ideas on how to fix this?

Oh, and I dumped the CMOS. Whenever I changed something in the BIOS, I did not get the "Updated" after "Verifying DMI Pool Data.........." and thought that may be the cause of my instability. I am running it stock until I can fix the Windows boot issue.


----------



## Blitz6804

Nope. Still does it.

I tried uninstalling the AMD Dual-Core Optimizer, and so far, it seems to be okay. I am going to run Orthos for two Lucas-Lehmer iterations restart. I will try this a few times. Maybe it was a bad driver install.

Anyone else have the Dual-Core Optimizer running? Are there problems on your end?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Nope. Still does it.

I tried uninstalling the AMD Dual-Core Optimizer, and so far, it seems to be okay. I am going to run Orthos for two Lucas-Lehmer iterations restart. I will try this a few times. Maybe it was a bad driver install.

Anyone else have the Dual-Core Optimizer running? Are there problems on your end?


Never had any issue with the Dual-Core optimizer.


----------



## Blitz6804

It must have been a bad install then. Since taking it out, stability appears to have returned to my box. I am presently running as per my sig.

Since I do not have S&M, I have decided to run Orthos and SuperPi simultaneously:

Click to expand to full size


I just downloaded and am now running S&M. If its good enough for txtmstrjoe, it should be overkill for me!

What I am noticing immediately is the higher temperatures. The hotter core is up about 6Âº over anything I have yet been able to get it.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


It must have been a bad install then. Since taking it out, stability appears to have returned to my box. I am presently running as per my sig.

Since I do not have S&M, I have decided to run Orthos and SuperPi simultaneously:

I just downloaded and am now running S&M. If its good enough for txtmstrjoe, it should be overkill for me!

What I am noticing immediately is the higher temperatures. The hotter core is up about 6Âº over anything I have yet been able to get it.


Oh yeah. S&M will heat up your system much more than any other stress testing application available.

Also, as far as the dual-core optimizer is concerned, I've never had any problems with it. Of course, the optimizer was released specifically to address certain goofy effects on older games/apps with WinXP. I wasn't aware that it was still good advice to install the optimizer with a Vista installation.


----------



## Blitz6804

I rolled back to XP. I could have swore I used to have it installed, so it must have just been a glitch.

Oh well.

So far, S&M is up to 10 minutes (85 to go) and it has my core cooking at a peaceful 43Âº/50ÂºC. I must have fixed wiring better or something, because as you all remember from the "Unofficial" AMD Overclock Club, I used to run 45Âº/50ÂºC in Orthos. That is now down to 39Âº/45ÂºC.

So I have a 4Âº/5ÂºC lead on Orthos with S&M so far. As temps go up, fans will kick in and they will go down.

*Looks at desktop.*

Speak of the devil. Down to 36Âº/45ÂºC again. It is doing test L1(4). I LOVE speed controlled fans. Imagine if I ever turned the Silverstone up front to high...


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Oh yeah. S&M will heat up your system much more than any other stress testing application available.

Also, as far as the dual-core optimizer is concerned, I've never had any problems with it. Of course, the optimizer was released specifically to address certain goofy effects on older games/apps with WinXP. I wasn't aware that it was still good advice to install the optimizer with a Vista installation.


would Vista even need the optimizer?


----------



## Blitz6804

Nope, it is built-into Vista. With my motherboard it is moot anyway remember. I need to disable a core to run Vista.


----------



## iandroo888

*Sigh*.. i cant get the fx-60 higher than 2.8.. tried on both a8r32-mvp and a8n32-sli board.. =[


----------



## Blitz6804

*GRAH!*

18 minutes left. *18!* S&M died while doing the GPU test. No reason, no warning. It just stops moving, and I got a Windows "this program needs to shut down..." message.

Oh well, at least I did not throw a blue screen.

Which shows,

*Eeets back!*

Now, do I leave it at 2.75 GHz, or try to squeak out another few MHz...

I just tried... and the prospects are not great.










I was able to suicide at 2.8 GHz (DDR = 400 FINALLY!), but that was it. FSB = 255 will not bot, and 254-251 are all only suicide friendly. Looks like I am stuck at 250.

Now... let me see if i can fiddle with my RAM a fuzz...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Looking good so far blitz!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


*GRAH!*

18 minutes left. *18!* S&M died while doing the GPU test. No reason, no warning. It just stops moving, and I got a Windows "this program needs to shut down..." message.

Oh well, at least I did not throw a blue screen.

Which shows,

*Eeets back!*

Now, do I leave it at 2.75 GHz, or try to squeak out another few MHz...

I just tried... and the prospects are not great.










I was able to suicide at 2.8 GHz (DDR = 400 FINALLY!), but that was it. FSB = 255 will not bot, and 254-251 are all only suicide friendly. Looks like I am stuck at 250.

Now... let me see if i can fiddle with my RAM a fuzz...


buddy,you need a good DFI Mobo. May the Mobo gods shine down upon you my friend. OwwHmmmmmmm OwwwHmmmmmmm........now lets turn to chapter 23. Praise the Mobo king,for he will show you the light.


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz, try only 2 sticks of memory and change your timings to 3-3-3-8 2T (for testing purposes). Perhaps those settings will yield a higher OC.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I do a lot of multi tasking and really need the 4 GB. I may try dropping my divider to 2:1 to see if I can get the processor any higher, but I think I have hit a voltage wall here. Under load, the processor only gets 1.312 V (as shown in the screen shot) instead of its 1.350 V as per the BIOS. Idling with CnQ shut off has it up to 1.335 V. Idle with CnQ is 1.070V instead of 1.100 V as per the BIOS.

Checking speed fan shows similar voltage results: my +12 V rail is down to + 11 V, -12 V rail is down to -5.6 V, -5 V is down to -3.3 V, and the -3.3 V is down to -1.6 V. All these are based off memory, expect them to be off a volt or two.

Can you tell I have an HD 3850? Can you imagine if I tried to run that thing on a non-certified PSU? What sucks is that the power connector on my 8-pin PCI-E rail is wrong: there is a round and a square swapped. Because of that, I cannot use it in the video card, and instead, must use the 8-pin to 2-molex adapter to power the thing.


----------



## Blitz6804

At pioneerisloud's advice, I will consider turning off CnQ such that I can overvolt the processor slightly and maybe finally be able to reach a 3.0 GHz suicide.

That will not be until after I finish my Appellate brief however, so start checking in around 1700h EDT.


----------



## pioneerisloud

As always...looking forward to your results







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I do a lot of multi tasking and really need the 4 GB. I may try dropping my divider to 2:1 to see if I can get the processor any higher, but I think I have hit a voltage wall here. Under load, the processor only gets 1.312 V (as shown in the screen shot) instead of its 1.350 V as per the BIOS. Idling with CnQ shut off has it up to 1.335 V. Idle with CnQ is 1.070V instead of 1.100 V as per the BIOS.

Checking speed fan shows similar voltage results: my +12 V rail is down to + 11 V, -12 V rail is down to -5.6 V, -5 V is down to -3.3 V, and the -3.3 V is down to -1.6 V. All these are based off memory, expect them to be off a volt or two.

Can you tell I have an HD 3850? Can you imagine if I tried to run that thing on a non-certified PSU? What sucks is that the power connector on my 8-pin PCI-E rail is wrong: there is a round and a square swapped. Because of that, I cannot use it in the video card, and instead, must use the 8-pin to 2-molex adapter to power the thing.


Hmm... maybe the OCing difficulties lie in an insufficient PSU...







Unless your motherboard sensors are out of whack, those aren't very healthy readings coming from SpeedFan.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Hmm... maybe the OCing difficulties lie in an insufficient PSU...







Unless your motherboard sensors are out of whack, those aren't very healthy readings coming from SpeedFan.

that could be, but I run a 600watt and have no issues.UNLESS his PSU is not pushing the amps.


----------



## Blitz6804

As I said, I checked with AMD/ATI. This power supply is certified for my processor and video card. I would blame the motherboard on not properly calling for the voltages.

I mean, why should I not do so? It likes to play games with my FSB! 200 = 201. 251 = 252. And of course, 254 = 254.5 just to name a few.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I do a lot of multi tasking and really need the 4 GB.

Checking speed fan shows similar voltage results: my +12 V rail is down to + 11 V, -12 V rail is down to -5.6 V, -5 V is down to -3.3 V, and the -3.3 V is down to -1.6 V. All these are based off memory, expect them to be off a volt or two.

Blitz, for *testing purposes* I suggested that you remove 2 sticks of memory to see if that helped your OC. Regardless if you need it for multitasking ect, it would be good to know what is holding you back (if there is something holding you back). Remember there is more stress on the IMC with 4 DIMMs filled. You might get the occasional, "but I have 4 sticks and my OC is great!"...I consider those to be lucky.
Software monitoring isn't going to be accurate at all with your PSU voltages. I'd suggest testing the rails with a multimeter. Here is a guide that I hope is helpful on explaining this process: http://www.devhardware.com/forums/po...est-75111.html. It's kind of an old guide but all you need to do is measure the 3 rails. Is the Antec the PSU in question? That model has plenty on the 12volt rail (40amps) for your 3850. With my 3850 PCI-E, it was recommended that I have 33 amps for total system power. Shoot that Antec is overkill at 480watts.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I have a 650 watt Antec. As I said, according to AMD, this is a certified power supply for my video card. I am sure the four DIMMs is having an effect on me. When I only had two DIMMs, I was running them at DDR 440 (1:1 with the CPU) sans any issue.

Any time I get too ambitious with my overclock, rendering the system un-POSTable, I un-plug it, remove two DIMMs, re-plug it in and power it up. Then I can dial it back and then replace the two.


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz, it's not really 650 watts just FYI. 170 of that goes to the 3.3v and 5v standby







. Do you have a multimeter handy to test the voltages of the power supply. I guess I'm a little confused, what is still the problem with your setup?

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I do not have a multimeter.

My issue is so far, the highest stable OC I can get with 4 DIMMs is FSB = 250, Divider = 200:166.

Reducing the divider to 200:150 or even 200:133 does not improve stability over FSB = 250. I am assuming this is an undervolt issue. At load, my CPU is only getting 1.31 V (the BIOS says it should be getting 1.35 V). In order to test higher FSBs, I assume I will finally need to let go of CnQ. Even if I can get a suicide or two higher than my best (2.8 GHz), that would be cool.

Hey, for the 3.0 GHz club, do you need to be suicide stable, or actually stable?


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz, have you found out what the maximum limit is for your motherboard? I was able to get into Windows with my K8NSC-939 at 310HTT. Here is a guide that explains on how to find the limits of each component: http://www.overclock.net/faqs/31782-...pu-memory.html. Sorry if you've already read over this guide but I believe your board is capable of getting higher reference clocks speeds. Make sure to also disable CnQ when testing each component.

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

blitz, didn't you say that your S&M run quit during the GPU test? That test actually tests your PSU more than the GPU. What the program does is run the GPU through the wringer, therefore stressing the PSU to the limit.

The fact that your S&M run stopped on you during this particular test really strongly suggests that the PSU is the weak link here.

A general comment on PSUs: Most PSU manufacturers (even those with big brand names) tend to fudge their published ratings in order to fit a certain marketing niche. The key stats with PSUs are not so much their wattage outputs at peak, but 1) their amps output at every rail, especially the 12V rail; 2) their *sustained* wattage and amperage outputs, and not peak; and 3) the connectors they have (whether or not these will fit your hardware).

Your S&M run suggests to me that, under severe duress, your PSU might not be producing enough stable output to your components. The result of the test speaks for itself; this conclusion is not a stab in the dark, in my opinion.


----------



## Blitz6804

Then again, silly me was dragging the GPU window around while it was testing...

Next time, I need to leave the bloody thing alone!

EDIT:

It is interesting to note that it gave me a windows message (illegal operation blah blah) and not a S&M error.

Since I am taking a lunch break, I figured I would start it.

It kept giving me error messages unless I shut SpeedFan, then start it, then reopen SpeedFan.

EDIT2:

Yes, I blame SpeedFan for voltage issues. It must not be reading the BIOS right. I am showing VCore1 = 1.33 V, VCore2 = 2.78 V. If that were true, my CPU would already be on fire. The -12V is showing as low as -2 V, and then bouncing up to -11.5 V. This instability did not happen with OCCT, and so, it must be SpeedFan to blame.

EDIT3:

I gotta stop running this program. I think it stresses me more than my PC. I feel like my chest is going to explode!

EDIT4:

Yes, it was user error. This time, I am resisting the urge to touch my mouse. 12 minutes left.

CPU0 = 46
CPU1 = 52
GPU = 70
HDD1 = 50

EDIT5:

CPU BARRAGE DONE!

Now on RAM test #1 of 4.


----------



## Blitz6804

Okay... as I did not want to edit a 6th time...

RAM test #1 just finished. I am assuming that all four RAM tests are the same length. If that is the case, S&M will be done by 2100h EDT.

EDIT: RAM test #4 of 4 started. I shall be finished in 47 more minutes.

Baring another bout of demonic possession, keep your eyes open for the stability screen shot.


----------



## Blitz6804

Doh!

I am a moron sometimes. S&M pops up and says everything passes. AND THEN I SHUT THE WINDOW!

Fortunately, there is a log file:

Since I am eternal pessimist, here is S&M after completing the CPU batteries:









Again, figuring it would crash, I took another screen cap right before the RAM finished:









The log file with properties, CPU-Z (Validated) and GPU-Z running.:









Now I can proudly say that I am OCNS5*+* stable!

P.S. Joe, please update my validation link in the roster.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Great job, blitz!

Ah, S&M... doesn't it make you feel all warm and fuzzy afterwards?









Link on roster updated as well.


----------



## Blitz6804

You broke the roster again txtmstrjoe.

CPU Validation Link or, fix your link. You have a typo:

Code:


Code:


http://www.overclock.net/amd-general/293448-socket-939-appreciation-club-knowledgebase-official-32.html#post3596322

Change the "32" to a "128" and all is right as rain.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

D'oh!

Roster linked fixed.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I think a big CONGRATULATIONS should be going out to blitz!!! Great job on getting that thing S&M stable! I don't have the balls to run S&M.....enough said (and look at my suicide runs and load temps, lol).


----------



## froggy1986

Well, I finally got my OC worked out for now, temps are a bit high BUT I think they will be ok







Anyways will send pm with validation to txtmstrjoe.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I'd like to make note here....Froggy did this overclock all on her own. I told her what the BIOS options did, and helped her figure out that CPU vid is volts, etc, etc.....she set everything up herself, and tweaked it herself.

I'd also like to mention that I'm 99.999% sure that her motherboard has a funky sensor. I'm remembering the X2 Manny in that rig with what....25-30*C delta between the cores? Yeah...something's messed up, lol. So I'm GUESSING that her warmer core is not 70*C. I'd bet that its at or below 65.

Just my two cents....and CONGRATULATIONS HUNNY!

I'd do a big congratulations band and all....but dangit that was hard to do!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

froggy, your roster link has been updated.









And congrats on a great OC!

(Between you and me, you deserve more kudos than pioneer... but that's just between you and me, you hear..?)


----------



## Blitz6804

Congrats Froggy. When in doubt, attack a thermal probe to the top of the heatsink as close to the chip as possible. If it reads greater than 50, they you might be having trouble.

Are you going to go for higher quality RAM and crank the timings up? Or are you happy with a stable rig?

Come to think of it, I am jealous: your Opty runs at 2800 (from 2000) whereas my X2 runs at 2750 (from 2200).

I take it back, I hate you now!

(Just kidding... seriously, congrats. 40% overclock on your first attempt is outstanding!)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Congrats Froggy. When in doubt, attack a thermal probe to the top of the heatsink as close to the chip as possible. If it reads greater than 50, they you might be having trouble.

Are you going to go for higher quality RAM and crank the timings up? Or are you happy with a stable rig?

Come to think of it, I am jealous: your Opty runs at 2800 (from 2000) whereas my X2 runs at 2750 (from 2200).

I take it back, I hate you now!

(Just kidding... seriously, congrats. 40% overclock on your first attempt is outstanding!)


Hey, a super-stable 2.750GHz is pretty darn good, in my book.







Besides, what's 50Mhz? I cannot claim to be able to feel the 50MHz difference.









Hmmm... I'm hungry. Who wants some fried breaded shrimp for dinner?


----------



## ZealotKi11er

What temps would a AMD 64 get at 1.5v and is it safe to run it at that high volts? I want to make my 3.00 more stable.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*


What temps would a AMD 64 get at 1.5v and is it safe to run it at that high volts? I want to make my 3.00 more stable.


If you're wanting to run 1.50v with that Blue Orb....you're gonna need a better cooler I think. It all depends on the cooler and case airflow. Try 1.50v out and see, but try not to exceed your thermal limit (more than likely 65*C).


----------



## Blitz6804

3700+ San Diego? You are safe to a maximum of 71Âº C according to AMD. I would keep it 65Âº C or lower at most.

ADA3700DAA5BN (Revision E4)
ADA3700DKA5CF (Revision E6)

EDIT: {BUT, you could be lower depending on your revision:
ADA3700AEP5AR (Revision CG)

Look before you leap!}

Truth be told, as soon as I see that 5xÂº C I get a little nervous.

And txtmsterjoe... Froggy = 40%, I = 25%. In order for me to have the same percentage, I would need to be 3080. Would be moot, because my first attempt is hereby officially concluded.

On that note, should I drop the "Overclocker in Training" from under my name? What should I swap to?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
3700+ San Diego? You are safe to a maximum of 71Âº C according to AMD. I would keep it 65Âº C or lower at most.

ADA3700DAA5BN (Revision E4)
ADA3700DKA5CF (Revision E6)

EDIT: {BUT, you could be lower depending on your revision:
ADA3700AEP5AR (Revision CG)

Look before you leap!}

Truth be told, as soon as I see that 5xÂº C I get a little nervous.

And txtmsterjoe... Froggy = 40%, I = 25%. In order for me to have the same percentage, I would need to be 3080. Would be moot, because my first attempt is hereby officially concluded.

On that note, should I drop the "Overclocker in Training" from under my name? What should I swap to?

Well, your point about OC percentage is correct. However, you didn't account for two basic facts: 1) Your CPU has a higher default multiplier (11x, compared 10x for froggy's Opteron 170); it therefore stands to reason that, when using the highest available CPU multiplier, even if you both end up with the exact same peak CPU speed, her Opty 170s OC percentage will always be higher than yours. 2) S939 K8s all have similar peak potential top speeds on air cooling, which is around 3.0GHz. Some exceptional chips can see speeds north of this (but with questionable stability on air cooling), but most don't reach 3.0GHz. This is why, personally speaking, discussions of OCed percentage are a little misleading, because chips with lower default multipliers will always get a higher percentage overclock.

As far as your user title is concerned, well... that's something that's completely under your own discretion.


----------



## thlnk3r

Congrats Blitz and Froggy on your awesome accomplishments


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
As far as your user title is concerned, well... that's something that's completely under your own discretion.
















For now, I upgraded it to "AMD Overclocker." Maybe a slight exaggeration given some of your rigs, but it is better than nothing.

Hey txtmstrjoe, how did you make a custom one? Need a certain number of Reps?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
For now, I upgraded it to "AMD Overclocker." Maybe a slight exaggeration given some of your rigs, but it is better than nothing.

Hey txtmstrjoe, how did you make a custom one? Need a certain number of Reps?

For mine, I got it after a year of activity on OCN + a minimum of 250 reps. I believe you can also purchase an overclocked OCN account if you don't want to wait that long.


----------



## Blitz6804

If I had the money to spend on that, do you really think I would have an AGP MoBo instead of a PCI-E one? Lol.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


If I had the money to spend on that, do you really think I would have an AGP MoBo instead of a PCI-E one? Lol.


Blitz, now you need to start OCing your 3850


----------



## froggy1986

Thanks guys, I'm still not really sure exactly wut I did, but it worked, so I'm not going to complain. As for my ram, WHEN we can afford it, yes I would like to go down to two sticks of better ram, but with pioneer currently buying the parts for our two HTPC machines, it's not going to happen anytime soon...But for now, I guess I can't really complain too much since I did get the OC as high as I did.

As for my temps, on idle, cpu=37, core1=37, and core2= 42. Is it normal for my cores to be so far off, especially when under load? Or is pioneer right and I shouldn't really pay much attention to the second core? Do you think that I did a bad seating or thermal compound app?

BTW I HATE RUNNING ORTHOS...the less I have to run it the better, thats why I'm happy with my current ran speed and looseness...I'm too impatient to wait 10 minutes just for a window to open and load, I thought I was going to throw something at my computer.

Anyways, I'm headed to bed so I will get back to this tomorrow... Hope everyone had a good Easter.


----------



## iandroo888

oh man. this is a crap end for my spring break. due to me forgetting the setting i had or thought i knew i used for my opty 165 prior to switching it with fx-60 to see its overclockability, going back to the opty.. i cant make it stable.. im tryin to run OCCT.. but it keeps freezing up comp around 53 - 55 min.. (counting backwards).. i have no idea whats wrong

Heres the current settings

CPU Clock: 2943 MHz (327 x 9x)
HTT Speed: 981 MHz (327 x 3x)

Northbridge overvolt = enabled
CPU Vcore = 1.5v
DDR Vcore = 1.8v (or is it 2.8?... forgot.. )

Memory : DDR420 (210 MHz) 3-3-3-8 @ 2T


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Ouch.

I checked your Opty 165 CPU-Z validation to see if there are any clues there, but you have all of your settings noted on there already.

The VDIMM is probably 2.8V (that's a typical setting for DDR); 1.8V is way too low (and I don't believe the motherboard can set it that low anyway).

Hope you get your OC back, iandroo. If nothing else, at least you learn that it's a good idea to write your settings down somewhere in case you need to refer to them sometime.









Look at it this way: If you don't get things back, you can start over too.







Sometimes that's fun, too.

Or maybe not...


----------



## iandroo888

runnin occt again

i figured to try a different voltage variation. 1.3v + vcore overvolt. believe it or not.. it didnt crash within 10 minutes.

*edit*

ok its stable now. lol. freakin 1.3v + vcore overvolt. temps stayed around 54 - 58C. not bad i guess. will play with it more tomorrow. sleep time for me. haha










Opteron 165 OC'ed @ 2943 MHz (1.3v cpu vcore + OverVolt) (Stock "Auto" Memory Timings)










not sure if i posted this.. lol fx-60 oc.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, now you need to start OCing your 3850










I intend to. I just attempted today to overclock the Proc a little more. Even with removing a pair of RAM DIMMs and over-volting to 1.425 V, it is not stable at anything over 250 FSB. So I guess that means I have reached my final CPU/RAM clock.

If someone knows the maximum safe temp for an HD 3850 that would be great. I saw reviews for it generally showing mid-sixties as an operating temp for the dual-slot models and mid-eighties for the single slot models. I have a single-slot model with a dual-slot cooler a slot away from it, giving me an S&M temperature of 71ÂºC at max.

(My PCI slots look as the following:
Rheostat for Silverstone FM122-B
HD 3850
Cover plate
Thermaltake TMG SL1 A2414
Thermaltake TMG SL1 A2414
USB header
Soundblaster X-Fi XtremeMusic)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *froggy1986*


As for my temps, on idle, cpu=37, core1=37, and core2= 42. Is it normal for my cores to be so far off, especially when under load? Or is pioneer right and I shouldn't really pay much attention to the second core? Do you think that I did a bad seating or thermal compound app?

BTW I HATE RUNNING ORTHOS...the less I have to run it the better, thats why I'm happy with my current ran speed and looseness...I'm too impatient to wait 10 minutes just for a window to open and load, I thought I was going to throw something at my computer.


Perfectly normal for a core split. Usually, loads exacerbate the split. As you can see with my Sig Rig, idle temps differ by as little as 2Âº C and S&M temps by as much as 6Âº C. I have had occasions, on different seatings, where they have differer by more than 8Âº C under load. As long as your idle temps do not differ by more than 5Âº or 6Âº C you are fine. If they do, I recommend pulling the HSF, giving both it and the CPU a good rub down of isopropanol, and then reapplying TIM and reseating. Make sure you do not use too much TIM and that you tighten both screws about the same degree.

And yes, running Orthos sucks. It always helps to ease the pain to have a second PC running around so you are not cut off from the world. The one that is worse is S&M: it stresses the user much more than the PC! Seriously, I felt like I was having a heart attack about 80 minutes into it. My pulse was 96, and I had not moved from that chair for over two hours!


----------



## Blitz6804

Today's projects:

Overclock the HD 3850
Run S&M GPU test solely to ensure GPU stability*

Run a few benchmarks:
Test my memory band width
3DMark06 with the overclocked GPU

EDIT: S&M is only stressing the card 90%. I found amd am downloading a program called "rthdribl." I hear that is the most painful GPU stresser around.

EDIT2: rthdribl can stress the GPU 99.55%. That is close enough for government work. At stock clock, the card tops at 71Âº C at 25% fan RPMs. Boy, that sounds like a waste to me!

After slowly stepping it up, I have the card at the maximum permitted clock (which will be posted soon pictorially) and the card tops at 71Âº C at 71% fan RPMs. Even at 71% RPMs, I STILL cannot hear the fan. It is interesting to note the loudest component of my computer is primary Hard Drive (at 32 dB), followed by my front fan (at 29 dB), and my Zalman (at 27 dB).


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


If someone knows the maximum safe temp for an HD 3850 that would be great. I saw reviews for it generally showing mid-sixties as an operating temp for the dual-slot models and mid-eighties for the single slot models. I have a single-slot model with a dual-slot cooler a slot away from it, giving me an S&M temperature of 71ÂºC at max.


Blitz, I will confirm that my 3850 clocked at 725/900 is getting 68C full load. Tested with ATITool .27 beta and also while playing games (cod4 & tf2). It's summer so the card has been idling around 45-47C. Kind of high for my taste. When I had a nice 20C room ambient the card was idling around 34-36C and was loading at 48-55C.

Hope this helps Blitz!


----------



## Blitz6804

My card, clocked to the max allowable (GPU say 715/945; ATI says 720/950) topped out at 71Âº C with 71% RPMs.

It idles at 40Âº C, which is the same for stock or overclock as the ATI auto cycles down to 300/829 when not in use.

I am having problems with 3DMark06. Apparently, it did not like my registration code, so I bought another one, and am downloading again. Will hopefully be able to post ORB before I need to leave for class.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Please welcome our newest member: Jarhead!

Roster on first page updated.


----------



## Blitz6804

I am now posted on ORB: 7568 3D marks!


----------



## thlnk3r

Welcome to the thread Jarhead


----------



## Jarhead

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Welcome to the thread Jarhead










Glad to be here.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Don't you love it when your best-laid plans go bye-bye down the john?

As some of you already know, I'd been running an experiment using my DFI testing rig. The purpose of the tests was to observe the inter-relationship of RAM timings, RAM frequency, CPU frequency, and memory bandwidth, to determine the best way to set up the RAM in relation to the CPU overclock. I was even charting my findings on a neat spreadsheet...

Well, I seem to have run into some equipment failures. The testing rig has been belching BSoDs lately, so I'm afraid the RAM has packed it in. I'll run MemTest86+ to eliminate the RAM as the possible cause of the BSoDs.

Thankfully, I've got a couple of spare sets of RAM with which to run the experiments. But this means I have to start over.









Oh, well...

I had some interesting findings, though, with the testing I'd done so far. But the experiment hadn't gone far enough to say anything truly definitive.

I beg for your patience, fellow club members.


----------



## thlnk3r

Joe, arg that stinks man. I wonder if you can get a hold of who you bought the memory through and RMA it


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Joe, arg that stinks man. I wonder if you can get a hold of who you bought the memory through and RMA it










Oh wow!

You know, I didn't think of RMA...









Methinks I'll be contacting the good folks at Patriot if MemTest uncovers errors.


----------



## Cvalley75

He Froggy, I'm running the non SLI verson of your board on my AMD rig, I too am at 2.8 stable on a 3800 X2, Toledo. I have a little more room to go, but I'm not too hardcore, I'll take the easy overclock, & try not to break anything in the process. Too bad good ram isn't as cheap a DDR2, I'm using G-Skills in both my rigs & am loving them. As far as the temp difference I don't know, I have heard of people having that problem before & delidding the processor & having them even out nicely, could be the TIM between the lid & core over one core isn't the best, who knows. I have two Toledo's & the cores on both are with a couple of degrees, got lucky I guess.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *froggy1986*


Thanks guys, I'm still not really sure exactly wut I did, but it worked, so I'm not going to complain. As for my ram, WHEN we can afford it, yes I would like to go down to two sticks of better ram, but with pioneer currently buying the parts for our two HTPC machines, it's not going to happen anytime soon...But for now, I guess I can't really complain too much since I did get the OC as high as I did.

As for my temps, on idle, cpu=37, core1=37, and core2= 42. Is it normal for my cores to be so far off, especially when under load? Or is pioneer right and I shouldn't really pay much attention to the second core? Do you think that I did a bad seating or thermal compound app?

BTW I HATE RUNNING ORTHOS...the less I have to run it the better, thats why I'm happy with my current ran speed and looseness...I'm too impatient to wait 10 minutes just for a window to open and load, I thought I was going to throw something at my computer.

Anyways, I'm headed to bed so I will get back to this tomorrow... Hope everyone had a good Easter.


----------



## iandroo888

question for those who lapped.. so if both surfaces are lapped.. how much TIM are you supposed to use? is it still the size of a grain of rice? or would it be less now?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
question for those who lapped.. so if both surfaces are lapped.. how much TIM are you supposed to use? is it still the size of a grain of rice? or would it be less now?

It'd be less. How much less?

That's the real question.









Sorry it's a vague answer, but I've found that it's a matter of trial and error. I guess some of it depends on which TIM you use, as well as the quality of your lap job as well.

Then there are cases where the lap job is so exceptionally good, no TIM is actually necessary...







Hard to believe, maybe, but it's been done.


----------



## iandroo888

i see. think im gonna try like a drop as big as "o" lol


----------



## nategr8ns

I just got an 8503 on stock CPU speeds. I just got an opty 175 so I need updating in first post 

Does anybody know where to get 939 s-clips for TRUEs? I want a TRUE so bad...

(p.s. how do I get a link to my ORB?)

I need to get an ORB for my thread anyway, so I don't want to bother validating now.


----------



## iandroo888

ive seen s-clips @ jab-tech.com. think its about 5 - 6 bux each


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
ive seen s-clips @ jab-tech.com. think its about 5 - 6 bux each

thanks. They're $5. Now time to find a used TRUE


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Update on txtmstrjoe's RAM Bandwidth Testing:

My DFI testing rig is presently running MemTest86+ on its Patriot PC3200LLK 2GB kit; as of the 0:59:52 mark, the test has generated 224 errors.









So at least my suspicions were confirmed: The rig was BSoDing on stock timings (2-3-2-5-1T) and @ DDR420 (210MHz), which was a breeze for this set of RAM in the past. The RAM has definitely degraded.

Back to square one now for the Bandwidth tests...


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
i see. think im gonna try like a drop as big as "o" lol

That depends on the size of your monitor I guess...

The general rule of thumb is the size of the AMD Logo on the chip. Oh wait, you lapped it... never mind.


----------



## Poser

@Blitz.... sweet clocks man, excellent job. Your patience seems to have paid off.

@Froggy... also an excellent Job, congrats.

@Droooser... the recipe for efficient TIM application is to cover as much of the connecting surfaces with as little TIM as is necessary. I like to put a small drop dead center where the die resides (about half a grain of rice) and then spread outward like spokes with a sandwich bag stretched inside out over my index finger (this gives a very smooth surface and reduces residual build up as you move out from the center). You can cover the whole IHS (or die if naked) using this method and a finite amount of AS5

@Joe... I am not sure, but I think I have a pair of Gskills kicking around if you need them (though they were clocked hard and high @ 291mhz 2.93v). Very interested in reading your findings

@ Think3r... you are the Dhali Llama of the s939, I am humbled by your presence.

@Pioneer... why are you wasting time reading this, shouldnt you be working on those HTPCs hmmmmmm









anyway... glad to see this thread as continued to thrive, long live nine three nine


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Poser* 
@Pioneer... why are you wasting time reading this, shouldnt you be working on those HTPCs hmmmmmm









I'm wasting my time reading this because I'm working on a client's build where my second HTPC would be built up at. My first one is done....still short a 4" cathode and a card reader / USB hub, but that can wait since I don't have one yet.

My god I can't believe how idiotic computer ignorant people can be! I told this lady that it sounded like a fan of hers was dying....so her son put a new fan in. Well....he bought a PCI slot cooler, busted the clip off and put nut and bolts through to hold it in near the top (in a REALLY old PII case).

Well that wasn't the fan that died! It was her chipset fan....and man that thing is dead. Now since I don't happen to have any spare Socket A chipset coolers laying around, I managed to remove the stock FAN, and I zip tied a 60mm fan to the heatsink. Hey it works. Got her idle temps (in BIOS) down from 80*C to 40*C by ACTUALLY CLEANING IT, and I put a new fan on her CPU as well. And her case now has REAL FANS.....so hopefully she won't have this issue anymore. Formatting and putting XP on it now (was Win 98 first edition). Can't wait to see the progress this little T-Bird has to offer!


----------



## froggy1986

Is there anyone in here thats by chance familiar with Yahoo IM??? I'm having a prob with it and its about to p*$$ me off...thanks in advance. Here's my thread if ya think ya might be able to help me out.


----------



## sohail99

Here's my Athlon 64 Socket 939 rig!!







- http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=334844

Though i cant get a stable OC at 2400MHz!!! Windows BSODs all over!!! Lol!









Slightly slow! But, I love it!!









I hope my mobo had supported Opteron 180 S939!!








Also i couldn't find any Athlon X2 4800+ Toledo(s) - S939!!! Cause i guess they've been phased out!!









Anyways, I'll be upgrading to Phenom when their new 45nm procs r out!!








and AMD 790 FX mobo!!

Thanks!!


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sohail99*


Here's my Athlon 64 Socket 939 rig!!







- http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=334844

Though i cant get a stable OC at 2400MHz!!! Windows BSODs all over!!! Lol!









Slightly slow! But, I love it!!









I hope my mobo had supported Opteron 180 S939!!








Also i couldn't find any Athlon X2 4800+ Toledo(s) - S939!!! Cause i guess they've been phased out!!









Anyways, I'll be upgrading to Phenom when their new 45nm procs r out!!








and AMD 790 FX mobo!!

Thanks!!










saw a 4800+ on ebay the other day , might still be there ...but ebays always a crapshoot


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Welcome, sohail99! You are now officially a member of the Socket 939 Appreciation Club.







We are glad to have you here.









In case you have the desire to go ever higher with your 3200+, there are lots of friendly and knowledgeable members here who will help you out. Just let us know how, and as you've probably seen, there will opinions and experience aplenty.

@ Poser: We haven't seen nearly enough of you lately, my friend! Good to see you, nonetheless. (And thanks for the offer of the G.Skills. I'll have to consider that.)


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sohail99*


Here's my Athlon 64 Socket 939 rig!!







- http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=334844

Though i cant get a stable OC at 2400MHz!!! Windows BSODs all over!!! Lol!









Slightly slow! But, I love it!!









I hope my mobo had supported Opteron 180 S939!!








Also i couldn't find any Athlon X2 4800+ Toledo(s) - S939!!! Cause i guess they've been phased out!!









Anyways, I'll be upgrading to Phenom when their new 45nm procs r out!!








and AMD 790 FX mobo!!

Thanks!!


















WELCOME


----------



## Tigerplayer

@sohail99
have you tried to up the VCore? My 3200+ runs stable at 2600MHz and is also a Venice... I think I have mine at ~1.5v.

Also it would help if you put a divider on the RAM and set the HTT to 4x, that should get you up to about 2500MHz, which is kind of a sweet spot because of the 4x HTT speed.
I'm surprised that your Trancend RAM kan keep up, and i'd really like to see more...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


@ Poser: We haven't seen nearly enough of you lately, my friend! Good to see you, nonetheless. (And thanks for the offer of the G.Skills. I'll have to consider that.)


go for them, you really won't regret it


----------



## pioneerisloud

We need more entries in our 939 case management contest!


----------



## sohail99

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Welcome, sohail99! You are now officially a member of the Socket 939 Appreciation Club.







We are glad to have you here.









In case you have the desire to go ever higher with your 3200+, there are lots of friendly and knowledgeable members here who will help you out. Just let us know how, and as you've probably seen, there will opinions and experience aplenty.


Thanks man!!







I really need a lotta help!! lol!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*









WELCOME










Thanks!!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tigerplayer*


@sohail99
have you tried to up the VCore? My 3200+ runs stable at 2600MHz and is also a Venice... I think I have mine at ~1.5v.

Also it would help if you put a divider on the RAM and set the HTT to 4x, that should get you up to about 2500MHz, which is kind of a sweet spot because of the 4x HTT speed.
I'm surprised that your Trancend RAM kan keep up, and i'd really like to see more...


Whoa!! Athlon 64 [email protected] 2600MHz














!!!

Ok! i figured out and increased my VCore upto 1.4v via AMD Overdrive!!








Now can i OC more?









Also in my case AMD is cooled by stock cooler!!







So, i dont think i can go as far as 2600MHz!! lol!









Here r my stock voltages -










Here r my Mem Timings, tell me what to change for optimal performance!!







-










Here is the Vcore!! It can reach 1.4v Max!! I'll try to OC more!!







-










Thanks guys!!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Have you tried overclocking in BIOS yet? You'll probably get further that way







.


----------



## thlnk3r

Welcome to the club sohail99!


----------



## Poser

@Scorpion.... sir if you are interested let me know, free o charge. If so... I will memtest each stick for 12hours for you (also free o charge







). I changed them out because I needed fresh, unclocked... unstressed stix for some mission critical work about 1.5 years ago. I moved the platform over ddr2 and AM2 since... and the box is now in a colleagues house. I dont have any use for them as anything other than back ups to my current 4 * 1gb config.

These stix were legendary (some of the first HZ in the retail channel) and I have yet to repeat their performance through several other pairs of HZ's.

One Caveat: I began to experience the occassional system crash (not bluescreen, mind you... but lock-ups and app crashes). I tested each stick individually and they passed 12hr memtest86 1.70. HOWEVER... (you knew there had to be a catch...) after about 1045% coverage in HCI memtest... errors were discovered. I did not get around to testing each stick individually using this methodology, but can if you are really interested in them. Bare in mind, I was blasting these with much higher than recommended voltage (2.93 in bios, 2.88 actual) but was actually seeing performance benefit (unusual for UCCC @ above 2.8v). But these boys clocked up to 275 @ 1t and 291 @ 2t. 275 1t was @ 3,3,2,7 as well (tight for UCCC running up this high).

Let me know, good sir... and I will see if they still have some fight left in them


----------



## pioneerisloud

I appologize for being so silent lately....not like my usual "loud" self







. Trying to get a customer's computer up and running, and working on 2 rigs of my own as well, and trying to find the parts for my dad's rig. Go figure. It's been a rough week.

I'd like to present a warm welcome to all of our newer members. Hope you enjoy your stay in our little 939 variant of OCN....you might even learn something while you're here, or at worst you may turn out like me!

Boobteron FTW!

(Sorry I had to







)


----------



## Xyro TR1

Harro, I'm using 939! I'm wanting to upgrade to a faster 939, though. How's an Opteron 180 sound?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*


Harro, I'm using 939! I'm wanting to upgrade to a faster 939, though. How's an Opteron 180 sound?


Hello!

The Opteron 180 is certainly faster than your 3500+, and has the additional advantage of being a dual-core CPU. Moreover, if you're so inclined you can overclock the Opty 180 for even more additional speed.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Hello!

The Opteron 180 is certainly faster than your 3500+, and has the additional advantage of being a dual-core CPU. Moreover, if you're so inclined you can overclock the Opty 180 for even more additional speed.


Yah, just ordered it. I fully intend on OCing it.

I bought this as well.


----------



## iandroo888

oOo opty.. and a corsair psu.. yummy =P


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1* 
Yah, just ordered it. I fully intend on OCing it.

I bought this as well.

Xyro, good choice on the power supply. I have that same one and I have not had any problems with it. It has a single 12volt rail rated at 41amps I think.

Good luck and let us know how the Opteron 180 goes


----------



## Xyro TR1

Haha, I'm terribly excited about getting this together! This mobo, gfx card, and RAM are all from a friend who had it in his computer (a Retired Director on here!), 'cept he was running an Opteron 148 @ 2.8Ghz stable. I decided to improve upon that a little bit, and then clock up the speeds on everything. We'll see how quick NewEgg gets it to me. Rush processing FTW!


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1* 
Haha, I'm terribly excited about getting this together! This mobo, gfx card, and RAM are all from a friend who had it in his computer (a Retired Director on here!), 'cept he was running an Opteron 148 @ 2.8Ghz stable. I decided to improve upon that a little bit, and then clock up the speeds on everything. We'll see how quick NewEgg gets it to me. Rush processing FTW!

hope the EGGs better to you than they were to me , ordered the OCZ Platinum 2gb set with next day shipping , finally got it yesterday [5 days]







good deal tho $74 for the 2-1gb set after the rebate


----------



## iandroo888

the EGGz0r got me my ddr2 mem in approx 2 days.

*edit*

daam peoples.. quit porkin around and enter in the club's contest!

Click Here 

At least say you are preparing for it or something @[email protected]


----------



## txtmstrjoe

We have a new member: Xyro TR1! Welcome!

And I agree, iandroo. Where are those pictures in the Case Management Contest thread?!?!?!?

thlnk3r is gonna go ballistic on everybody, just you wait. He's probably thlnking, "Nobody wants to win my beautiful case?"

Make thlnk3r happy, y'all!


----------



## Xyro TR1

Thanks for the welcome. I'll likely be entering the contest upon the purchase of some Zipties.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
We have a new member: Xyro TR1! Welcome!

And I agree, iandroo. Where are those pictures in the Case Management Contest thread?!?!?!?

thlnk3r is gonna go ballistic on everybody, just you wait. He's probably thlnking, "Nobody wants to win my beautiful case?"

Make thlnk3r happy, y'all!









WELCOME Xyro TR1


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1* 
Thanks for the welcome. I'll likely be entering the contest upon the purchase of some Zipties.

Welcome to the club Xyro...Yahoo!


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1* 
Thanks for the welcome. I'll likely be entering the contest upon the purchase of some Zipties.

zipties ftw.. work so nicely hehe.. i go thru like 100 a month haha.. cuz i always have "new" ideas on managing haha


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Cross-posted in the S939 Appreciation Club-exclusive Case Management Contest Thread:

I have a few announcements to make:

The first post in the thread has been updated. Please review it to get a complete overview of the rules, the contest period, the updated information on prizes, and other important details.

Also, the judges have *extended* the contest. The new end of the contest is *April 18, 2008*. This gives everybody in the club plenty of time to snap their photos and post them in the thread. I've also decided that, for people who have already posted in the thread and entered the contest, if they want to *they can post updated pictures of their entered rigs as well.* In fact, anybody who has entered the contest can change the pictures that they've posted at their discretion until the end of the contest. After the deadline, no more pictures can be added/edited.
Alright, people! Let's see some more photos!


----------



## iandroo888

ah man... i have some important tests coming up next week... *sigh*.. gonna be a butt to have time to work on improving my rigs..


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I have added a small clarification to the contest rules.

Please see my latest post there (#29) for more details.

Thank you.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Well, the contest sounds like fun! Hopefully I'll have everything together by next weekend. This might be an opportunity for a new paint job... maybe.









Anyone want a 3500+? Lol.


----------



## iandroo888

if i had an extra mobo, i would take it lol.


----------



## Blitz6804

Good luck Xyro TR1. I cant get rid of my 3700+ Sandy lol.

If someone wants to give me a case/psu, RAM, and a Mobo/PCI-E card, I can hook it up and throw out the Dell lol.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Haha, I'm probably going to keep it as a spare. =D


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1* 
Haha, I'm probably going to keep it as a spare. =D

LOL TRICKSTER!


----------



## pioneerisloud

We need moar pictures to drool at people! I'm going to bug everyone in the club till we get more photos!!! Heck I might even go as far as PM'ing each and every club member and tell them, "Hey!!! Get your butt to work and take some pictures for our contest!!! " Hmmmm......that's not such a bad idea???


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*


Haha, I'm probably going to keep it as a spare. =D


Honestly that's not a bad idea. I wish I had a "spare" chip...but sadly I don't.


----------



## Xyro TR1

^Hah, even if I didn't have a spare 939, my friend's still got his Opty 148 I could temporarily gank.


----------



## Salku

Here you go my validation and sorry if i took long but i work alot...CPU-Z


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Honestly that's not a bad idea. I wish I had a "spare" chip...but sadly I don't.


We would if my opty 148 would have ever showed up







not that its all the great but still "spare".


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Good morning, all!

Just wanted to welcome our two newest members, Marager and Salku!

Welcome to both of you!


----------



## Xyro TR1

'Mornin! And welcome, fellow noobs.


----------



## froggy1986

Welcome to everyone I haven't welcomed yet... sry not on much lately and I won't be for awhile...stupid pain meds are kicking my @$$ bad... I will have pioneer keep me updated as to whats going on and new in here... hope everyone is doing good and accomplishing their OC goals...

( btw I'm messed up right now so don't mind me..but Welcome anyways new ppl)


----------



## Xyro TR1

Have fun with the pills! =P

So what happened?


----------



## boonie2

:dwelcome Fleglings:d


----------



## GuardianOdin

what time is it?...You's kids will find out soon enough!


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*


Have fun with the pills! =P

So what happened?


Long story short, SLEEP IS NO LONGER FUN!!! oh and they are for pain in my stomach...still not sure wut from....


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Club members, lend me your ears:

Thanks to the hugely impressive generosity of one of our very own (who shall remain anonymous), we've found yet *ANOTHER* way to spice up our Club-exclusive Case Management Contest: We will award a DFI UT LANParty nF4 Ultra-D to the winner of the contest!

This is no early April Fool's joke.

This is entirely legit.

So now we have a full complement of prizes to give away to the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd place awardees.









So, there you have it, Club S939! Snap those photos, and be in with a chance to run one of *THE* legendary DFI S939 UT LANParty motherboards.









(Cross-posted in the Contest Thread)


----------



## iandroo888

Oh Mah Gawd. Watashi Wa Must Win Desu! @[email protected]


----------



## thlnk3r

Welcome to the thread Marager and Salku


----------



## boonie2

:d Welcome , Welcome :d


----------



## crashovride02

What is the MAX safe voltage for the opteron 165???? I have searched the forums but haven't gotten a definitive answer. I'm going to try and hit 3Ghz but I know I will need to up the voltage! I'm currently at 1.45v.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crashovride02*


What is the MAX safe voltage for the opteron 165???? I have searched the forums but haven't gotten a definitive answer. I'm going to try and hit 3Ghz but I know I will need to up the voltage! I'm currently at 1.45v.


I do believe the max safe voltage on air is roughly 1.50v, and on water 1.60v. You're running a not so high end cooler, I would not recommend you going much over your current voltage as is. Although if temps allow it, go for it







!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Max safe voltage on a S939 dual-core on air cooling?

Who knows, really?

I have, on my tester rig setup, an Opteron 170 that's been subjected to 1.7V VCore and has been stress-tested at a sustained 70+ degrees Celsius...









Obviously, this CPU is still running. How much time I've shaved off of its full potential lifespan, though, who can say?


----------



## iandroo888

must.. win... contest.... must... have... another... 939... rig haha


----------



## Blitz6804

Iandroo888, you already have an SLI MoBo: you do not need another one.

Then again, considering my complete lack of PCI-E video cards, I do not know what I would do with it! Hm... maybe I can return my 3850 and get a 3870 x2...


----------



## crashovride02

I made the 3Ghz club!!!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *crashovride02* 
I made the 3Ghz club!!!























Awright!

Though I'm completely alcohol-free (except for 99% isopropyl for cleaning purposes only







), I say it's time to







!

Strike up the







!


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Iandroo888, you already have an SLI MoBo: you do not need another one.

Then again, considering my complete lack of PCI-E video cards, I do not know what I would do with it! Hm... maybe I can return my 3850 and get a 3870 x2...


psh. so? u can never have enough 939 stuffz







also, if i win this, i can put my fx-60 on this board.. and use my a8r32-mvp with 4200+ as server! so i dont have to use that energy sucking heater intel prescott as a server







so this contest determines if i will have a server or not

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crashovride02*


I made the 3Ghz club!!!
























i hate you









kidding. grats









Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Awright!

Though I'm completely alcohol-free (except for 99% isopropyl for cleaning purposes only







), I say it's time to







!

Strike up the







!











YEAHH


----------



## pioneerisloud

Congratulations on making the 3GHz club!

I'd also like to say Iandroo....do you really need another dual GPU board? I mean jeez you've got the two best 939 boards ASUS made, their SLI and their Crossfire boards. Honestly, that DFI wouldn't be any better than your ASUS, and if it is, not by much at all. However if you win the contest, well you win the contest







.

You guys need to get your pictures in on this contest! C'mon one of the top 939 boards is up for grabs for the winner! Second place wins a freakin awesome case!! What more could you guys ask for?


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Congratulations on making the 3GHz club!

I'd also like to say Iandroo....do you really need another dual GPU board? I mean jeez you've got the two best 939 boards ASUS made, their SLI and their Crossfire boards. Honestly, that DFI wouldn't be any better than your ASUS, and if it is, not by much at all. However if you win the contest, well you win the contest







.

You guys need to get your pictures in on this contest! C'mon one of the top 939 boards is up for grabs for the winner! Second place wins a freakin awesome case!! What more could you guys ask for?


what? im just saying.. IF i do win.. ill use the DFI for my FX-60.. and use my a8r32-mvp as server (since i dont have ati cards anyways). with my luck in contests, ill be lucky if i even get 3rd. lol.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Of course, *I* could always change the rules of the contest.

And since I'm one of the judges, *I* could award myself maximum points and therefore win the contest.

DFI, here I come, baby!

Muhahahahahaha

(Now who let evil Joe out of the bottle..?)


----------



## iandroo888

_pokes evil joe back into the bottle with a stick_

hehe


----------



## pioneerisloud

SOMEBODY PUT EVIL JOE BACK IN THE BOTTLE!

I am also a contest judge....so see, my votes for all me could cancel your votes for all you out. Then its all up to thlnk3r!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

No way, guys.

Evil Joe can write the contest rules as he sees fit. After all, only Evil Joe can change the rules officially in the contest thread.

Evil Joe can give himself five votes to your one vote, pioneer.

Muhahahahahahaha

It is good to be king!


----------



## euphoricmix

About time socket 939's are appreciated for all their greatness. Add me to the club, and I will add my rig to the case management contest.


----------



## Parabellum

My precious 4600


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Please welcome our club's newest members, euphoricmix and Parabellum!

Thank you for enlisting.







We are very happy to have you.









euphoric, thanks for joining the Club-exclusive Case Management Contest.







Good luck to you.









Parabellum, SUPER-IMPRESSIVE OC on that X2 4600+!


----------



## Parabellum

Thanks txtmstrjoe. One day, while I was attempting to lap it, static said no thanks







R.I.P.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Parabellum* 
Thanks txtmstrjoe. One day, while I was attempting to lap it, static said no thanks







R.I.P.

Lap what? Your CPU's IHS, or your waterblock?

Hmm... I've never had static whilst lapping.

LOL Reminds me of the time I lapped my first IHS. I like wet-lapping, and I lap stuff over my bathroom sink. In a fit of madness, I thought, "Let's run this CPU under the faucet to clean the particulates off of it."









Believe it or not, that chip didn't die despite taking a bath.







I killed that chip later on, after I took its HSF off. I, um, fumbled a heavy heatsink, and it fell onto one of the exposed ICs surrounding the naked die. The die was completely unharmed, but the IC was crushed and split in three pieces...









Oopsies...


----------



## Parabellum

Lol, ouch. I was lapping my 4600's IHS. I at first tried taking it off, but when I was trying too hard I was afraid something bad might happen. So, I stopped and tried just lapping it, giving me the same negative result lol


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Parabellum* 
Lol, ouch. I was lapping my 4600's IHS. I at first tried taking it off, but when I was trying too hard I was afraid something bad might happen. So, I stopped and tried just lapping it, giving me the same negative result lol









LOL wow.

So wait, that X2 4600+ is dead now? LOL I just saw your sig.

I would have just gone ahead and decapitated the chip. Of course, I've done a few of these already, so I've got more confidence in how to do it. LOL I still remember how nervous I was the first time I tried this.

Maybe I'll take the top off of one of my CPUs again soon and post a pictorial of it here...


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Parabellum* 
Lol, ouch. I was lapping my 4600's IHS. I at first tried taking it off, but when I was trying too hard I was afraid something bad might happen. So, I stopped and tried just lapping it, giving me the same negative result lol









NICE avatar!


----------



## iandroo888

parabellum - wow thats very impressive for a 3.1ghz. i think thats the highest in the ocn community if not worldwide. 4600+ are a butt to get that high! *edit* sorry for the news







if u actually did take the IHS off.. that chip would of became a legend. lol

pioneerisloud - yeah i changed it just now.. lol ... what happened when u did it?

there was a video i saw before that was really good imo. you know that slit that doesnt have glue, start from there.. using a shaving razer blade... they clipped something onto the blade so the "max" depth it can go is within "safe distances".. i didnt really care when i did it to one of my 4600+. they failed me at oc'ign haha and i had two anyway. lol


----------



## Parabellum

Thanks Xyro TR1, she's my baby.

And iandroo888, thank you for making it even worse for me to cope with







. No, but thank you. It was my first overclocked cpu, and I just kept goin at it and goin at it. Spent so much time and effort, and without even knowing it was gone forever.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
LOL wow.

Maybe I'll take the top off of one of my CPUs again soon and post a pictorial of it here...









Lol, please do. Better late than never in my situation


----------



## iandroo888

im sorry







_begs Parabellum for forgiveness_

wonder how u got static lapping.. sitting on carpet floor with glass on carpet... and ur moving some body part on carpet too much.. *shrugs*


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Parabellum*


Thanks Xyro TR1, she's my baby.

And iandroo888, thank you for making it even worse for me to cope with







. No, but thank you. It was my first overclocked cpu, and I just kept goin at it and goin at it. Spent so much time and effort, and without even knowing it was gone forever.

Lol, please do. Better late than never in my situation


















May it 'rest in peace'


----------



## Parabellum

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


im sorry







_begs Parabellum for forgiveness_

wonder how u got static lapping.. sitting on carpet floor with glass on carpet... and ur moving some body part on carpet too much.. *shrugs*


Lol. I just used a vice to hold the cpu in place (I didn't over-tighten it, I made sure of that). I didn't use water. I was a noob at lapping, and I didn't read anything about wet lapping until after the fact.

I now feel like **** that it had to be that cpu. Back when I posted the OC, I didn't feel like it was anything great.


----------



## thlnk3r

Welcome Euphoricmix and Parabellum to the thread









Crashovride02, congrats on the 3Ghz OC


----------



## iandroo888

i dont use water when i lap. all comes out good. only trouble i have is holding the darn cpu lol.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
i dont use water when i lap. all comes out good. only trouble i have is holding the darn cpu lol.

Iandroo, same here. I just dried lapped the IHS with 400,600,800 and 1500 grit. Takes me about 2hrs to complete. Though I believe Joe ran his under the kitchen sink to get the sandpaper junk off


----------



## iandroo888

lol i go 220, 400, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000.

sometimes it makes me wonder how much you guys lap. a lot of people say it takes them a few hours.. it takes me like 30 minutes.. am i doing this wrong? @[email protected]

///// marks on cpu.. start on 220 grit. move in one direction until 50% copper. turn 90 degrees. move in one direction until 100% copper. 400 until all marks go in one direction. 800 - 2000 like 2-5 min each. they all appear scratchless and mirror shine at end. >_o


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


lol i go 220, 400, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000.

sometimes it makes me wonder how much you guys lap. a lot of people say it takes them a few hours.. it takes me like 30 minutes.. am i doing this wrong? @[email protected]

///// marks on cpu.. start on 220 grit. move in one direction until 50% copper. turn 90 degrees. move in one direction until 100% copper. 400 until all marks go in one direction. 800 - 2000 like 2-5 min each. they all appear scratchless and mirror shine at end. >_o


Iandroo, I think the 2 hour movie that I watch is also to blame


----------



## Xyro TR1

Wow, I have no idea what you guys are talking about! Isn't it great??









Side note: one more day 'till my new PSU and CPU get here!!! Woooot!


----------



## pioneerisloud

I don't know it took me like 6 hours to lap my X2. However I feel I may not have done the job correctly as the temps really didn't improve a whole lot at all. Oh well. That's why I don't lap no more. Wish I knew how to lap in 30 minutes to an hour, lol.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Lapping time really depends how bad the surface is. Took me about 5 hours to do both CPU and heatsink. Both were very uneven. That and I'm really anal about the finished product


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Wait.

Wait.

So none of y'all's CPUs take a bath when you lap them..?

thlnk3r's right: I ran CPUs under the running faucet to clean them off whilst lapping. Didn't harm the chip none at all.

Just make sure the CPU is bone-dry before plugging it back into the socket and giving it some juice!


----------



## Xyro TR1

Hmm, I might have to try this. Hmm....


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*


Hmm, I might have to try this. Hmm....


Do you mean giving your CPU a bath whilst lapping?

Um, just promise you won't blame me if things get FUBARed.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Iandroo, I think the 2 hour movie that I watch is also to blame










haha i usually have nothin to do when i lap.. so i CONCENTRATE! and move fast! haha

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I don't know it took me like 6 hours to lap my X2. However I feel I may not have done the job correctly as the temps really didn't improve a whole lot at all. Oh well. That's why I don't lap no more. Wish I knew how to lap in 30 minutes to an hour, lol.


6 HOURS!? holy buddah







crazy pioneerisloud *poke poke*









Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Lapping time really depends how bad the surface is. Took me about 5 hours to do both CPU and heatsink. Both were very uneven. That and I'm really anal about the finished product










Lol. i think its just me being lucky getting heatsinks that are pretty flat stock. iunoe. LOL.. lapping just gives me something to do. so i do it alot haha

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Wait.

Wait.

So none of y'all's CPUs take a bath when you lap them..?

thlnk3r's right: I ran CPUs under the running faucet to clean them off whilst lapping. Didn't harm the chip none at all.

Just make sure the CPU is bone-dry before plugging it back into the socket and giving it some juice!










no. i do not take a bath with my cpu =P haha i dont love my cpu THAT much.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Do you mean giving your CPU a bath whilst lapping?

Um, just promise you won't blame me if things get FUBARed.










hope hes not saying hes goin to try taking a bath with it >_>


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


hope hes not saying hes goin to try taking a bath with it >_>


Nah, dude.

The chip takes a shower/bath; I do too, but not while I'm lapping.









Moral of the story: Lots of ways to do things and have success.









Alternative solutions FTW!









By the way, if you S939ers are really interested in the art of lapping, allow me to plug our very own GuardianOdin's guide on how to do it. That's seriously one of the best guides I know about.

You can also ask thlnk3r for his pet techniques. He's another artist with a lapping kit.

(Gonna enlist his help in lapping my faithful Big Typhoon soon.)


----------



## iandroo888

that black marker thing never works for me.. its always gone after like 5-10 moves on the sandpaper haha.. but i do it anyway.. lol.. just incase there is really an effed up one haha.. gee.. he turn's his proc a lot LOL.. i only turn it like 90 degrees max 2-4 times.. he goes like every 15 degrees.


----------



## thlnk3r

Iandroo, I actually don't turn mine at all. I just go back and forth(wet sanding). It took my almost a week to finish my XP-90C...only because most of the day I was working


----------



## txtmstrjoe

txtmstrjoe has something interesting to report:

After running for months on 1.36V VCore in the BIOS on my gaming rig, I decided to do some experimentation last night. I dropped the VCore a whole .5V in the BIOS, so now it's set at 1.3125V.

I ran S&M just to see if the rig was still stable at lower VCore.

See attachment please.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
txtmstrjoe has something interesting to report:

After running for months on 1.36V VCore in the BIOS on my gaming rig, I decided to do some experimentation last night. I dropped the VCore a whole .5V in the BIOS, so now it's set at 1.3125V.

I ran S&M just to see if the rig was still stable at lower VCore.

See attachment please.









Joe, awesome job









How were the temps during S&M?

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, awesome job









How were the temps during S&M?

Good luck

You just had to ask me about temps, didn't you?









I don't know. I was sleeping during the FPU test, which generates more heat than anything I've seen for these chips. For what it's worth, though, during the less intensive portion of the test, the temps were peaking at 42 - 44 degs C at the cores steady during the L1 & L2 cache tests, with the ambients at 22 degs C. The FPU test heats up the processors by about three or four degrees C more on a hot day.

Wish I saw the FPU test now, to see what the temp peak steady was...


----------



## iandroo888

crazy @[email protected]


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
crazy @[email protected]

What is..?


----------



## iandroo888

S&M and you getting that low temp @[email protected]


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
S&M and you getting that low temp @[email protected]

ROFL

That screenshot was taken AFTER the S&M run, just to let you know.


















I'm more chuffed about the fact that it's an 800MHz / 40% overclock and it's S&M stable...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
ROFL

That screenshot was taken AFTER the S&M run, just to let you know.


















I'm more chuffed about the fact that it's an 800MHz / 40% overclock and it's S&M stable...









Joe, 1.3125 should be very rewarding when it starts hitting 27C in your room again.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, 1.3125 should be very rewarding when it starts hitting 27C in your room again.

Indeed.

Now if only I could change *my body's VCore* for those stupidly hot summer months in my bedroom...










I'm game for some post-VCore adjustment S&M after that...


----------



## Parabellum

Omg.............it's Not Dead


----------



## Xyro TR1

LMAO, I was talking about lapping in general.


----------



## Parabellum

****. After reading what you guys were saying, how dry sanding didn't kill yours. I was like hmmm, then why didn't it run right after I sanded it? And what was that weird noise the cpu was making..so i threw it back in my pc and what do you know. No noise and it's booted.

Now, I need to reclock everything, and sadly enough I forget my setup..It's going to take me awhile for me to remember.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Parabellum*


Omg.............it's Not Dead


Parabellum, it's pretty hard to kill a processor unless you physically damage it. I knew it wasn't dead


----------



## TheCh3F

Include me plz! Check my sig for my 2 s939's... nice thread!


----------



## thlnk3r

Welcome TheCh3F to the thread


----------



## pioneerisloud

OMG OMG OMG!!!

I GET AN 8800GT OR 9600GT FOR MY BIRTHDAY!!!!!!!

Figured I'd share the good news, lol.


----------



## Parabellum

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


OMG OMG OMG!!!

I GET AN 8800GT OR 9600GT FOR MY BIRTHDAY!!!!!!!

Figured I'd share the good news, lol.


Whatever happened to my 8800GTS







lol.

I've been working on my car and been out of the computer loop since september, and the few threads I saw on my gpu, it's like obsolete. 400$ now like 150?


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
txtmstrjoe has something interesting to report:

After running for months on 1.36V VCore in the BIOS on my gaming rig, I decided to do some experimentation last night. I dropped the VCore a whole .5V in the BIOS, so now it's set at 1.3125V.

I ran S&M just to see if the rig was still stable at lower VCore.

See attachment please.









I am curious Joe: why do you always skip the HDD test? Is it likely to break the HDD? Is nothing gained from the test? I will eventually get around to running it again to shut up the nay-sayers who think I fudged the results since I only have two mid-test screens. I have changed my tRC down to the ideal 10 (from the 19 I had it running at) and my tRFC to the ideal 12 (from the 22 I had it running at). I am currently Black & White 2 stable.

I do not know if I am still S&M stable.

I am curious: should I attempt dropping my RAM timings any? They are running at the stock 2-3-3-6-2t at DDR 394. Any guess if I can make 2-2-2-5-2t? I know the motherboard can do CL1.5, but I doubt the RAM could.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Welcome to TheCh3f! You've been added to our roster!









Parabellum, awesome to hear that your chip ain't dead. And as far as thlnk3r saying he knew it wasn't dead, well... I think he came over to your place one night and snuck in, put the chip in his motherboard, tested it, and verified that it still had life in it.









pioneer! Does that mean I get your other 8600 too..?







You know, I *would* like to run SLI on one of my rigs again...

Xyro TR1, we knew you thought we were talking about lapping CPUs. We were too... until someone sidetracked the conversation.









blitz, why do I always skip the HDD test? Well, to be perfectly honest I don't really see what HDDs contribute to system stability. If they've got bad sectors or something (which they don't; I use other utilities/applications to ascertain that), then I'd replace the HDDs anyway. Subjecting the HDDs to S&M-level stresses would only accelerate their failure rate (since they are mechanical components, as opposed to CPUs and RAM, which are silicon-based non-mechanical), and I'd rather do HDD replacements only through normal usage patterns.

Besides, that would mean the tests would take even longer to complete.










As far as adjusting your RAM timings, that's up to you. Of course, you know that settings adjustments always carry the risk of going too far and inducing instability. But, if this is the case, if you do things methodically, you'll know immediately which adjustment caused the whole house of cards to collapse.









Phew! That was tiring!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I am curious: should I attempt dropping my RAM timings any? They are running at the stock 2-3-3-6-2t at DDR 394. Any guess if I can make 2-2-2-5-2t? I know the motherboard can do CL1.5, but I doubt the RAM could.

Blitz, try those settings and test with memtest86 first before logging into Windows. This in my opinion is the best way to avoid data corruption. Test each subtiming with memtest using tests 5 and 8. Run each of those for at least an hour.

Good luck


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


pioneer! Does that mean I get your other 8600 too..?







You know, I *would* like to run SLI on one of my rigs again...


We'll see about that one. Froggy's wanting it for SLI on her rig. We could possibly cancel our debt with that 8600GTS though...hmmmmm. I'll have to think it over







. I'll let you know what I come up with. Her PSU may not be powerful enough for it anyway......so we'll see once my new card arrives







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


We'll see about that one. Froggy's wanting it for SLI on her rig. We could possibly cancel our debt with that 8600GTS though...hmmmmm. I'll have to think it over







. I'll let you know what I come up with. Her PSU may not be powerful enough for it anyway......so we'll see once my new card arrives







.


Pffft

But I want it now.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


We'll see about that one. Froggy's wanting it for SLI on her rig. We could possibly cancel our debt with that 8600GTS though...hmmmmm. I'll have to think it over







. I'll let you know what I come up with. Her PSU may not be powerful enough for it anyway......so we'll see once my new card arrives







.


Pioneer, when did you get a COD4 server up? What's the ping like?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pioneer, when did you get a COD4 server up? What's the ping like?


Uh oh.

thlnk3r's got the COD4 itches again...

I told pioneer that if we play on his server, I'll go on too. Then you can all use me as target practice!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pioneer, when did you get a COD4 server up? What's the ping like?


Lol, well my ping is great. My bud DesertRat lives in Cali, his ping is usually right around 100. We're both joining right now, you should try it out with us







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Lol, well my ping is great. My bud DesertRat lives in Cali, his ping is usually right around 100. We're both joining right now, you should try it out with us







.


I'd go in, but I've got to pick my mom up from her work.

pssst. pioneer... forget froggy for a moment, and just give me the other 8600...

You know you want to anyway... hehehehe


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Lol, well my ping is great. My bud DesertRat lives in Cali, his ping is usually right around 100. We're both joining right now, you should try it out with us







.


Pioneer, how dare you insult me like that...I'm at work


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pioneer, how dare you insult me like that...I'm at work










Well fine then







. Shoot me an IM or something when you're off work. I should be here till roughly 8-9PM PST, and I'd be more than happy to game then too. Froggy may be up by then, and I'm pretty sure DesertRat will still be available.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pioneer, how dare you insult me like that...I'm at work










Uh oh.

thlnk3r's really mad now.

He's not answering any emails I've sent telling him to simmer down and cool off.

He's hotter than my chip was during S&M testing.


















Just joshing with y'alls. thlnk3r is a saint.









(pssst... don't sue me, thlnk3r.)


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


We'll see about that one. Froggy's wanting it for SLI on her rig. We could possibly cancel our debt with that 8600GTS though...hmmmmm. I'll have to think it over







. I'll let you know what I come up with. Her PSU may not be powerful enough for it anyway......so we'll see once my new card arrives







.


Be a good fiancÃ© and do as you should:

buy her a bigger PSU!

If you cannot afford another, give her the biggest one.

Thats the laws of nature right there!


----------



## thlnk3r

OT: Just had to shut down my SETI cruncher. Apparently my area of the office has an A/C outtage









Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


(pssst... don't sue me, thlnk3r.)


EDIT: I have decided to hire Blitz as my attorney. Joe, I am suing you for everything you have (computer hardware wise)


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Be a good fiancÃ© and do as you should:

buy her a bigger PSU!

If you cannot afford another, give her the biggest one.

Thats the laws of nature right there!


We both have the exact same PSU, and they are the biggest we have, lol. Can't afford anything better ATM, and looking to just upgrade my GPU, and go SLI on hers if it can handle it.


----------



## Blitz6804

Fine. In that case, give her your PSU. She can run a dual PSU setup.

For you...? I dunno, see if you can steal one from the dump or something!


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Fine. In that case, give her your PSU. She can run a dual PSU setup.










I like your way of thinking Blitz, you need to talk to pioneer more often....


----------



## iandroo888

hahaha !

oOo the legendary 4600+ is not dead! wow! yay


----------



## -Inferno

Just saw this thread.
I have a AMD 3200+ @ 2.0Ghz Stock Speed and Stock Cooling










My brother is gonna build another PC when my vista comes.


----------



## thlnk3r

Welcome to the thread -Inferno


----------



## Parabellum

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
hahaha !

oOo the legendary 4600+ is not dead! wow! yay


























With my crappy air cooler, got it right up to 3.0ghz..It was running hot so I dropped it to 2.8 until I can get more efficient cooling.


----------



## iandroo888

what happened to the TT bigwater?


----------



## iandroo888

btw. what settings you have everything at? j/w.. and what stepping info??

oh crap.. sorry for double posting


----------



## Parabellum

Lol, I'm afraid I didn't record the stepping before I started sanding it.

For what clock speed are you asking what settings I have?

Edit - Oh, well the BigWater is sitting on the desk atm, I need to get some liquidz for it so I can use it til I either upgrade my loop or go TEC.

What's also running through my mind is possibly selling my rig..but I can't see myself letting go of my precious


----------



## iandroo888

any stable setting above 2.7ghz >_> lol


----------



## Parabellum

For 2.8 I'm running 312x9 at 1.43v. My Mushkin's are at 3-3-2-5 with a 166 divider.

2.9Ghz - 323x9 at 1.45/475v

3.0GHz - 310x10 at 1.533v I believe


----------



## TheCh3F

Just saw on the opening thread that you have me listed as a 4600+ owner. I am running a 4200+. Thanks!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
OT: Just had to shut down my SETI cruncher. Apparently my area of the office has an A/C outtage









What can I say but:












Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
EDIT: I have decided to hire Blitz as my attorney. Joe, I am suing you for everything you have (computer hardware wise)









Oh geez.

With help like blitz on your side, I'm going to jail.

Again.


----------



## iandroo888

what temps u get at 1.533 vcore?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TheCh3F* 
Just saw on the opening thread that you have me listed as a 4600+ owner. I am running a 4200+. Thanks!









D'oh!

I've corrected the error.

And welcome to -Inferno. I promise that pioneer won't ride you too much because your chip isn't overclocked.


----------



## Parabellum

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
what temps u get at 1.533 vcore?

Well on this little Zalman I had about 35C idle lol, I didn't want to load that so I went down to 2.8GHz. But when I had my BigWater I didn't ever go above 46-7C during full load in my hot Florida room.

I've had it up to 1.55 as well and if i remember correctly even to 1.575. Temps never rose above 50C at load.


----------



## TheCh3F

Just added my venice to my sig. That was a fun cpu.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TheCh3F* 
Just added my venice to my sig. That was a fun cpu.

Sweet.

Added on the roster.

Your kung-fu is most impressive.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Hey there's nothing at all wrong with stock speeds







. My X2 rig is near stock speeds!


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Oh geez.

With help like blitz on your side, I'm going to jail.

Again.










Who did you kill the first time?

Erhm... I mean, what did you do the first time?

In all fairness, I am only a first year law student, so I really cannot represent him yet. However, I can write some of the legal documentation to advance the claim!

*Starts scribbling madly*

Just kidding. Seriously though, you should see what I did here with this letter. Dude to incompetence by my landlord, my car was damaged. My mom wrote a letter asking for recovery. I rewrote the whole thing. MUCH better now,


----------



## thlnk3r

Welcome TheCh3F to the thread







We hope your stay is enjoyable.

Joe, love the youtube clip LOL

Blitz, did you write up a nice letter for nvidia in regards to the nForce 3 Vista support?


----------



## Blitz6804

No, I have not. I have been sending messages back and forth with tech support. The newest: I quoted a press release from the head of nVidia PR department stating that the know of the issue with ATI video cards and dual core processors in Vista and a patch is forthcoming. Tech support replied that "the misinformed employee misspoke." It is interesting to note that nVidia keeps having press releases recognizing the problem and saying it will be fixed shortly. They have been for the past 18 months. Any time anyone contacts tech support, they are told that nVidia has no plans to ever release a new driver. I love duplicitous companies; fun times.

Their current story is that the nForce3 chipset predates dual core processors and cannot run them. They further that the nForce3 chipset is not Vista certified because it too postdates the chipset.

I replied that I wonder how the dual core works fine in XP. Or is it that it is only using one core, but I think it is using two? I pointed out that the VIA KT800 predated both dual core and Vista, but after an MCP update can handle both. The same is true of the SiS counterpart. If VIA and SiS can update their drivers, why does not nVidia?

I further pointed out that if I had an nVidia video card, there would be no issue. Only users with ATI video cards cannot use dual core. I swear, it must be a thing in the driver that they did release for Vista (integrated) that bars all non-nVidia cards.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Dudes and dudette of S939 Club (and all AMDers in these here parts), the time has come.

I cannot stand all the pressure any longer.

I'm afraid that I've succumbed to temptation; my ego has taken a tremendous battering.

I want a faster rig than what is possible with S939, so I've put in my first order for a C2Q system.

I'm so sad right now, to be honest. But I need more...

thlnk3r, I hope you can shepherd this flock better than I have. You are a good man for the job...

Sayonara.


----------



## Blitz6804

LIES!

You are, and forever shall be, and AMD head.

Keep both Computers, use Intel for word processing, and the AMD for everything else! (^_^)


----------



## catmmm

my old build was amd
4400+ on asus a8n32-sli deluxe
for some reason it doesn't even work anymore. i didn't use it for like 3 months due to now having a monitor..and then i got a monitor and the computer worked for like 3 days...and then my monitor wouldn't respond..or any other monitor.

so i gave up. and when i read about how awesome the e8400 was...i couldn't resist.







haha


----------



## Blitz6804

Might it have been your video card dieing? What did you do with it upon becoming a traitor?


----------



## catmmm

nah wasn't my video card. i had two video cards and swapped them to see if it was that. still did the same thing.
and the computer just sits now...until i can come up with a solution as to why it did that and then fix it...then i'll probably use it again for whatever. i'd really hate to trash it. it's my first build







haha


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Dudes and dudette of S939 Club (and all AMDers in these here parts), the time has come.

I cannot stand all the pressure any longer.

I'm afraid that I've succumbed to temptation; my ego has taken a tremendous battering.

I want a faster rig than what is possible with S939, so I've put in my first order for a C2Q system.

I'm so sad right now, to be honest. But I need more...

thlnk3r, I hope you can shepherd this flock better than I have. You are a good man for the job...

Sayonara.


OT: Your EGO has taken a tremendous battering?!?!? LOLZZZZ that just made my day!


----------



## iandroo888

OMG! NOOOOO!!!! o well.. i have a C2Q rig coming soon as well.. as long as you will still have 939 in your heart.. its all good







(if u decide to scrap ur 939 rigs, send em to me! ill make em into my folding farm!







)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I've tried to be strong.

I've tried to be faithful.

I've tried to never let the flame of my love for AMD die.

Sadly, all good things must come to an end.

The divorce is regrettably final.









At the end of the day, the speed freak in me must be satisfied. I OCed a client's C2Q over the weekend, and it blew my mind.

Love is one thing, but it falters in the face of undeniable logic. Passion can only be sustained so far.

Apologies, dudes and dudettes, friends all.

thlnk3r, don't try to change my mind; it won't happen.

Take care of our little group here; I'll see if the mods can transition all the privileges onto you.


----------



## thlnk3r

Joe, I'm speechless...

Well can I have your S939 stuff then


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I'll likely sell ALL of my S939 kit.

Gotta fund the new sig rig, after all.


----------



## thlnk3r

Joe, can I get dibs on the DFI board


----------



## Blitz6804

Joe, that link is broken. Consider:

Code:


Code:


http://www.overclock.net/system.php?i=22926

I feel like Joe's official link checker... seriously.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hmmmm...

None of those links are ever broken for me.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Joe, that link is broken. Consider:

Code:


Code:


http://www.overclock.net/system.php?i=22926

I feel like Joe's official link checker... seriously.


----------



## iandroo888

hey! i called dibs on it first







wahhhh *cries*


----------



## Blitz6804

Because it is your system. Since it is your system, you can use the edit link, which is what you posted.

Because we do not own your system, we cannot do so.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Hmmmm...

None of those links are ever broken for me.










Joe, probably because your logged in under your account. Log out and try it.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

D'oh!

I blame it on inferior AMD technology.

Just click my sig rig link for the real scoop.


----------



## wsail

hallelujah!

but seriously, if someone needs a DFI 939 board, let me know. it's non-sli


----------



## Blitz6804

Am I the only one to think Joe deserves a good old-fashioned lynch mob? I mean, its one thing to try to be funny, but I think, perhaps, it is presently going to far...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

What?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wsail*


hallelujah!

but seriously, if someone needs a DFI 939 board, let me know. it's non-sli


Wsail, are you selling it?


----------



## Xyro TR1

Joe: this better be an April Fool's Joke...

I don't even know who you are, but still... =P


----------



## Blitz6804

Why not check the specs on Joe's New Rig? You can see they are, in fact, legit.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

It IS legit.


----------



## Blitz6804

Eww... Internet Explorer? Joe, I have just lost the rest of my respect for you. First you "buy an Intel," and then I find out you use Internet Explorer. (See my avatar...)

I feel I do not even know you anymore! *Sobs.*


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


It IS legit.


Joe, OMGZ!!! This has to be a April fools joke if your using IE7!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Eww... Internet Explorer? Joe, I have just lost the rest of my respect for you. First you "buy an Intel," and then I find out you use Internet Explorer. (See my avatar...)

I feel I do not even know you anymore! *Sobs.*












I'm at work, dude. And I'm not at my regular terminal, where I have FF.









I'll bleed out the last remnants of any respect you may have had for me:

I'm running a DELL.









A Dell INTEL, no less.
















@ thlnk3r: Look CLOSER.

(It's IE6.)

Your geek credentials have therefore also been revoked.


----------



## Blitz6804

Nah, he is using IE6, which is only marginally better than IE7.

Real men use Fx. And AMD.

EDIT:

I had a Dell Intel. Returned the laptop after 8 months: was about to get its fourth motherboard and third LCD.

Now my laptop is a Toshiba Intel. I would have preferred an AMD, but since I was not buying it, I did not have a choice.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Dudes, let me show you the picture AGAIN.

Look CLOSER this time.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


@ thlnk3r: Look CLOSER.

(It's IE6.)

Your geek credentials have therefore also been revoked.










Joe, I call FAKE! That screenshot was quickly changed in the past few minutes. Stop lying, your at home on your Dell with IE7!!!111


----------



## Blitz6804

Sorry thlnk3r, you lose that one. That seriously is IE6.

How someone could possibly confuse the two...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Sorry thlnk3r, you lose that one. That seriously is IE6.

How someone could possibly confuse the two...


Blitz, whatever fool. It was IE7 20mins AGO! Joe obviously changed it back









EDIT: April fools btw


----------



## Parabellum

Earlier we were talking about removing the IHS off my cpu, and Joe you were sayin' something about making a how-to. I was wondering if it was even possible for the IHS to come off without destroying it. I bought it in December of 06 if that's any help...

If I do it, I want to before I rig back up my loop.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz, whatever fool. It was IE7 20mins AGO! Joe obviously changed it back









Naw, man.

Your love for AMD has blinded you.

This Intel Dell took one screenshot, and it's IE6.

Take another look...

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Parabellum* 
Earlier we were talking about removing the IHS off my cpu, and Joe you were sayin' something about making a how-to. I was wondering if it was even possible for the IHS to come off without destroying it. I bought it in December of 06 if that's any help...

If I do it, I want to before I rig back up my loop.

Very possible to take the top off, yes.

A how-to?

Hmmm


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Naw, man.
Your love for AMD has blinded you.

This Intel Dell took one screenshot, and it's IE6.

Take another look...

Joe, thats IE7 with a IE6 theme!


----------



## Blitz6804

I am starting to think someone switched thlnk3r's morning coffee with something that had a little more "kick."

If I remember right Parabellum, the 4600+ and 4800+ had soldered, rather than glued, heat sinks. I would do some massive research online before you risk destroying that processor (again).


----------



## Parabellum

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I am starting to think someone switched thlnk3r's morning coffee with something that had a little more "kick."

If I remember right Parabellum, the 4600+ and 4800+ had soldered, rather than glued, heat sinks. I would do some massive research online before you risk destroying that processor (again).


Doin' that now. I've only found one person saying they've gotten it off (4600), but not really hard enough evidence for me.

Gonna look some more.


----------



## Blitz6804

Worse case, you'll need to use either the saucier method or the butane torch...

Either way, I wish you luck, and hope to gosh you do not kill the poor girl again.

*realizes that the thread now has 1500 posts*

WHAT TIME IS IT PEOPLE!? *9:39!*


----------



## Parabellum

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Worse case, you'll need to use either the saucier method or the butane torch...

Either way, I wish you luck, and hope to gosh you do not kill the poor girl again.

*realizes that the thread now has 1500 posts*

WHAT TIME IS IT PEOPLE!? *9:39!*


THE FIRST DEATH WAS JUST A FLUKE!

I'm attaching the kind of razor blade i have, is that sufficient or is there a thinner blade i should use instead.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Thin blades are best. The blade on a box-cutter is what I usually use. Just be careful to keep the blade as flat against the PCB as possible; you don't want to gouge the PCB if you can help it.

Parabellum, your CPU is a Toledo; therefore, it's identical to my Opteron Denmark, so its IHS can be removed.

As far as I know, only some of the AM2 dual-cores (Opterons, mainly) had their IHS soldered on to their core dies. I'm almost 100% certain none of the S939 chips had this feature.

By the way, just in case anybody was thinking, I have not defected to Intel.









April Fool's to all who were.

And to those who won't admit, April Fool's to you too!









Thanks for the entertainment at work. (Even my supervisor was quite amused, as she's not accustomed to seeing this side of me.)


----------



## Parabellum

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I have not defected to Intel.









Well said. And as for my IHS..I'll try to get the blade you are talking about. Home Depot I'm assuming has them. Let's just make it clear, when my baby really is killed, I have Joe to blame







Lol, just messin


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Parabellum* 
Well said. And as for my IHS..I'll try to get the blade you are talking about. Home Depot I'm assuming has them.

Yeppers.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Parabellum* 
Let's just make it clear, when my baby really is killed, I have Joe to blame



















Oh, wait.

Wha..?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Parabellum* 
Lol, just messin

OH.


----------



## Parabellum

Lol.

What I do remember when attempting to remove it last time..was not being able to find that opening where there is no glue..so I could get my blade in there and start cutting. I hope that just has to do with the blade being too big.

I was actually convinced it was soldered on because the IHS was so snug on the silicon that I started digging into the IHS and a tad of the silicon before I could get in between them.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Parabellum* 
Lol.

What I do remember when attempting to remove it last time..was not being able to find that opening where there is no glue..so I could get my blade in there and start cutting. I hope that just has to do with the blade being too big.

I was actually convinced it was soldered on because the IHS was so snug on the silicon that I started digging into the IHS and a tad of the silicon before I could get in between them.

I almost always start at one of the corners. Once the blade bites, I apply firm pressure so that the blade gets between the IHS and the PCB. Then it's just a matter of maintaining steady pressure all the way around to the next corner.

I wish I had enough skills with a camera (or a tripod) and sufficient memory to post a video; I've got a chip I can decapitate.

It's likely, too, that the blade you used was indeed too big. Having a small, thin, sharp blade is the key.

As always, though, be very careful. Blades and fingers aren't really meant to get that close to each other...


----------



## Parabellum

When I couldn't get in there..I said to myself: "F this I'll sand this thing down til' there's nothing left.."

Tomorrow, I'm going to pick up a new blade, and give this a go. Wish me luck, I'll need it :/


----------



## thlnk3r

I recently removed my IHS. I just used a flat head screw driver and a hammer...popped right off


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


I recently removed my IHS. I just used a flat head screw driver and a hammer...popped right off




















Kiddies, don't try this at home. thlnk3r is a trained professional.

Parabellum, good luck.







Tell us how the de-lidding adventure goes for ya.


----------



## Blitz6804

Small update.

I periodically was getting instances where VPU Recover would kick in.

For those of you without an ATI card:

When the video driver crashes, Catalyst Control Center can recover the driver without needing to restart the computer. The screen goes blank for 30 seconds or so, but that is better than a BSOD.

So I decided to run Auto-Tune. It suggested that I back my card down to 709/*939*. I figured it was fate, and of course, complied.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I've tried to be strong.

I've tried to be faithful.

I've tried to never let the flame of my love for AMD die.

Sadly, all good things must come to an end.

The divorce is regrettably final.









At the end of the day, the speed freak in me must be satisfied. I OCed a client's C2Q over the weekend, and it blew my mind.

Love is one thing, but it falters in the face of undeniable logic. Passion can only be sustained so far.

Apologies, dudes and dudettes, friends all.

thlnk3r, don't try to change my mind; it won't happen.

Take care of our little group here; I'll see if the mods can transition all the privileges onto you.











No chocolate cake for you mister!









you got me, I just woke up and seen this LOL.....going back to bed to dream off 939


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


No chocolate cake for you mister!









you got me, I just woke up and seen this LOL.....going back to bed to dream off 939










Full marks for you for owning up.









Back to bed with you.

Girlfriend time for me now.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Parabellum*


Doin' that now. I've only found one person saying they've gotten it off (4600), but not really hard enough evidence for me.

Gonna look some more.


i have posted a picture before of taking the IHS off one of my 4600+.










there it is again.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Full marks for you for owning up.









Back to bed with you.

Girlfriend time for me now.


oOo go get her! rawr! LOL


----------



## pioneerisloud

MY GOD JOE! I WAS ABOUT TO HAVE A DAMN HEART ATTACK!! DON'T YOU EVER SCARE ME LIKE THAT AGAIN, DO YOU UNDERSTAND ME!!!!!! I DON'T CARE IF IT WAS AN APRIL FOOL'S DAY JOKE OR NOT!!!! THAT WAS SERIOUSLY ONE OF THE WORST THINGS I'VE EVER SEEN POSTED IN THIS CLUB! I WILL PERSONALLY REVOKE YOUR CLUB OWNERSHIP IF YOU DO THAT AGAIN!!!!!

Okay, enough yelling. Great joke







.

BTW, update for everyone....I'll be placing an order for a brand new shiny video card next week!!!! I just have to figure out which card to get around $200.

EDIT: I forgot I was yelling, had to make sure that whole thing was all yelling







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
MY GOD JOE! I was about to have a damn heart attack! DON'T YOU EVER SCARE ME LIKE THAT AGAIN, DO YOU UNDERSTAND ME!!!!!! I DON'T CARE IF IT WAS AN APRIL FOOL'S DAY JOKE OR NOT!!!! THAT WAS SERIOUSLY ONE OF THE WORST THINGS I'VE EVER SEEN POSTED IN THIS CLUB! I WILL PERSONALLY REVOKE YOUR CLUB OWNERSHIP IF YOU DO THAT AGAIN!!!!!

Okay, enough yelling. Great joke







.

BTW, update for everyone....I'll be placing an order for a brand new shiny video card next week!!!! I just have to figure out which card to get around $200.


















Dude, your reaction just made it so TOTALLY WORTH IT.


----------



## iandroo888

lol @ pioneerisloud's response


----------



## Blitz6804

Living up to his name well....


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


BTW, update for everyone....I'll be placing an order for a brand new shiny video card next week!!!! I just have to figure out which card to get around $200.


Pioneer, save your money and wait for the ATI 4xxx series to be released


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pioneer, save your money and wait for the ATI 4xxx series to be released










Would you get me one, thlnk3r?

I'd love to test drive one of those and see if it could handle the fury and uber-high demands of that most strenuous game:

Monopoly for PC.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Would you get me one, thlnk3r?

I'd love to test drive one of those and see if it could handle the fury and uber-high demands of that most strenuous game:

Monopoly for PC.


Do not pass go! Go directly to jail!







and I get to be the car


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Do not pass go! Go directly to jail!







and I get to be the car









Sweet.

I want to be that uber-phallic cannon.

BOOM! BOOM!


----------



## Blitz6804

Pioneer likely wants another nVidia so he can finally SLI them. Or rather, aim to SLI at some future date.


----------



## iandroo888

hes going to go for either the 8800GT or the 8800GTS. hehe. after my nice persuasion of not to go to the evil ATI side hehe


----------



## pioneerisloud

Yeah I'm currently looking at the BFG Tech 8800GTS OC 512MB model on newegg. The $224 price tag (after MIR) is quite appealing. Especially since the 8800GT I'm looking at is $214 after MIR (eVGA Superclocked). I think I'm more than likely going to go with the GTS. And yes, I'm doing nVidia for the sheer hope of going SLI in the future on this rig. Doubtful, but you never know.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


hes going to go for either the 8800GT or the 8800GTS. hehe. after my nice persuasion of not to go to the evil ATI side hehe










Powers of persuasion, eh?

Could you persuade my girlfriend to spend more money on me? I want to try out one of those "evil" 3870 X2s, please.

Mmmmm...


----------



## Blitz6804

Small update. I contacted Futuremark. I stumped the person on the other end.

She issued me another product code in the interim.

I just scored *8923!*

What?! I take 11/11 off my GPU clocks and gain 1253 3DMarks?

It must be the 939 MHz memory timing!

That, and I changed my tRC and tRFC from 19/22 to 10/12.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Small update. I contacted Futuremark. I stumped the person on the other end.

She issued me another product code in the interim.

I just scored *8923!*

What?! I take 11/11 off my GPU clocks and gain 1253 3DMarks?

It must be the 939 MHz memory timing!

That, and I changed my tRC and tRFC from 19/22 to 10/12.

Blitz, thats what I call impressive...especially for an AGP card!

Run 3DMark06 a couple of times and see how the scores are. Can you post your compare link?

Great job


----------



## txtmstrjoe

GOOD score for an AGP card.









I've never had a great AGP card, come to think of it. I've got me an AGP board now.

Maybe I can persuade blitzy ol' buddy here to part with his...


----------



## Blitz6804

Only if you are willing to hook me up with an equivalent SLI rig...

I did not think so.

And no thlnk3r, I still cannot make the rig public.

I do not know what made the difference: was is the clock? Was it the memory sub-timing? I broke that fundamental rule of computers (that I yell at Pioneer for all the time): NEVER CHANGE MORE THAN ONE THING AT A TIME.

Oh well, I cannot argue with results.

Am I still S&M stable? Who knows... I do not think I will live through another run.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Only if you are willing to hook me up with an equivalent SLI rig...

I did not think so.

So certain are you...

An old boss once said, "Never assume."







Ask pioneer and thlnk3r about the veracity of that.


----------



## Blitz6804

I actually am about to test a hypothesis.

Whenever I run 3DMark06, I tell it to run the total battery of tests. Maybe if I tell it only to run the default battery of tests, I can make the results public.

Be back in 20 minutes tops.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
An old boss once said, "Never assume."







Ask pioneer and thlnk3r about the veracity of that.

*rubs face in mirror while looking at bruises"


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
*rubs face in mirror while looking at bruises"

Same here







.

EDIT: I'd also like to mention Blitz, you'd be surprised how generous your fellow 939'ers can be. That's all I've got to say. I personally don't have anything I can throw your way, but you never know what somebody else may have they could let go of for a great price / trade.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

GuardianOdin would know where this comes from:

"You! Call the Brute Squad."

"I'm on the Brute Squad."

"You ARE the Brute Squad!"

Free cookie to whomever can tell me first where that one's from.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


GuardianOdin would know where this comes from:

"You! Call the Brute Squad."

"I'm on the Brute Squad."

"You ARE the Brute Squad!"

Free cookie to whomever can tell me first where that one's from.










That wouldn't happen to be from the Princess Bride would it?


----------



## Blitz6804

Alright. Just finished running it. (Forgot I was not running the Feature and Batch Tests.)

8974 this time out. Still cannot make public.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Alright. Just finished running it. (Forgot I was not running the Feature and Batch Tests.)

8974 this time out. Still cannot make public.


Blitz, either way that is an excellent score for AGP and practically at stock speeds for a 3850!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


That wouldn't happen to be from the Princess Bride would it?


You got lucky.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Alright. Just finished running it. (Forgot I was not running the Feature and Batch Tests.)

8974 this time out. Still cannot make public.


You NEED to get lucky.

(With getting that to go public, I mean.)


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, either way that is an excellent score for AGP and practically at stock speeds for a 3850!










I'd have to agree with thlnk3r on that one. I'd love to get scores like that (and be able to actually play the games in that area). Jeez I can't wait till I get my new card!!!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


You got lucky.

You NEED to get lucky.

(With getting that to go public, I mean.)











I think we ALL need to get lucky every once in a while (take that however you please







).


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I think we ALL need to get lucky every once in a while (take that however you please







).


Pioneer, that comment is out of LINE! This thread is out of CONTROLZZZ


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I'd have to agree with thlnk3r on that one. I'd love to get scores like that (and be able to actually play the games in that area). Jeez I can't wait till I get my new card!!!


Question: Why are these benchmark scores so important?

Can't these machines do what you need them to, the way you want them to? Unless, of course, achieving bench numbers is also part of the reckoning.

Totally random thought right now: I wish I could get a DFI UT LANParty CFX3200 for cheap.

Anybody know anyone who's got one?

(Psst. My birthday is in a month's time.)


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


You NEED to get lucky.

(With getting that to go public, I mean.)


I would prefer it the other way, but after a scare, my GF has decided it would be better if we do not risk it again until after the wedding.

Besides, she is 480 miles (about 8 hour drive) away! (>_<)

And I just uploaded the newest screen shot. You can now see my GPU-Z validation link on-screen. (That being http://www.techpowerup.com/gpuz/7b34c/.)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I would prefer it the other way, but after a scare, my GF has decided it would be better if we do not risk it again until after the wedding.

Besides, she is 480 miles (about 8 hour drive) away! (>_<)

And I just uploaded the newest screen shot. You can now see my GPU-Z validation link on-screen.


Pfft.

I can beat that (since we're talking benchmarks here at the moment).

How far away is Mississippi from Los Angeles?

Beat that, sunshine.










Wait a sec. That's actually horrible.









(Calls GF on phone to tell her subtly to relocate to CA.)


----------



## Blitz6804

Assuming Jackson, Mississippi, 1840 miles.

What sucks is that my Girlfriend will not fly her first time by herself, and she hates to drive. So when I want to see her, I must travel.


----------



## euphoricmix

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Pfft.

I can beat that (since we're talking benchmarks here at the moment).

How far away is Mississippi from Los Angeles?

Beat that, sunshine.










Wait a sec. That's actually horrible.









(Calls GF on phone to tell her subtly to relocate to CA.)



Are you going to tell your computer if she moves to CA? I see a future visit to Jerry Springer in your future, or that 80's movie where the computer took over the guys house because it was jealous. What was the name of that movie? Would like to see it again.

Edit: The movie is Electric Dreams (*calls local dumpy video rental company to see if they still have the vintage movie*) Computer actually falls in love with his girlfriend too, not the other way around. Still could fit, but I have always thought of my computer as a girl. Can be cold and temperamental like a lady.


----------



## Blitz6804

Finicky and temperamental sums up the TASER well.

"If you do not know what is wrong, you do not need to know!"

Hence why I cannot overclock her any further!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *euphoricmix*


Are you going to tell your computer if she moves to CA? I see a future visit to Jerry Springer in your future, or that 80's movie where the computer took over the guys house because it was jealous. What was the name of that movie? Would like to see it again.

Edit: The movie is Electric Dreams (*calls local dumpy video rental company to see if they still have the vintage movie*) Computer actually falls in love with his girlfriend too, not the other way around. Still could fit, but I have always thought of my computer as a girl. Can be cold and temperamental like a lady.




















Naw. My machines know their master and creator. They can never dominate me; I am forever their overlord.

Speaking of creepy movies with computers going wild, check out Demon Seed, starring Julie Christie. It still gives me the heebies...


----------



## Parabellum

Well...it's done.

One of the capacitors isn't looking too hot, and i'm dead scared it's broken.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Parabellum*


Well...it's done.

One of the capacitors isn't looking too hot, and i'm dead scared it's broken.










D'oh!

What happened?

Have you tried to fire it up at all?

Do you have any pictures?


----------



## Parabellum

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*









D'oh!

What happened?

Have you tried to fire it up at all?

Do you have any pictures?


Lemme take a pic. ATM i'm using isopropyl to take the grease off the dye, I hope thats okay? and where should i apply AS5 to the cpu, just where the grease was now, the dye i believe it's called?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Parabellum*


Well...it's done.

One of the capacitors isn't looking too hot, and i'm dead scared it's broken.


Parabellum, is this a cap on your board? If so that can be fixed.


----------



## Blitz6804

I would infer it was one of the capacitors on his CPU chip. Probably got nicked by the razor as he was delidding it.


----------



## Parabellum

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Parabellum, is this a cap on your board? If so that can be fixed.


If by board you mean cpu, yes. If board you mean by mobo, no.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Parabellum*


Lemme take a pic. ATM i'm using isopropyl to take the grease off the dye, I hope thats okay? and where should i apply AS5 to the cpu, just where the grease was now, the dye i believe it's called?


Isopropyl alcohol (the higher the percentage, the purer it is; I use 99%) is good.

Apply the TIM to the die (the very middle of the topless chip); use as thin a layer that you can manage, but it must be perfect coverage.


----------



## Blitz6804

Where did you get your hands on 99% txtmstrjoe? The best I can find in stores by me is 91%, and that is a hard find to find.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Where did you get your hands on 99% txtmstrjoe? The best I can find in stores by me is 91%, and that is a hard find to find.


My local Fry's Electronics store has it.


----------



## Parabellum

Since my camera is a POS, I'm going to hold off on uploading the pick for now. But I just put some AS5 on, smoothed it evenly with my razorblade. Now I'm going to just throw on my air cooler to see if it's dead...*crosses fingers*


----------



## nategr8ns

I now have an opteron 175 lcb9e @ 2.7ghz. Picture is at post #8 of this thread

please add this next to my name (second on the list







)

meh wth, here it is
















The cake is 100% truth!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Parabellum*


Since my camera is a POS, I'm going to hold off on uploading the pick for now. But I just put some AS5 on, smoothed it evenly with my razorblade. Now I'm going to just throw on my air cooler to see if it's dead...*crosses fingers*


Good luck, Parabellum!


----------



## Parabellum

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Considering she is naked, I would not throw your air cooler on her, but instead, delicately place it on.


Lol..

One slight problem, the HS doesn't even touch the dye, even before screwing down..I'm going to go grind it down a bit.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Parabellum*


Lol..

One slight problem, the HS doesn't even touch the dye, even before screwing down..I'm going to go grind it down a bit.


I forget: What heatsink are you using?

@ nategr8ns: I've added your Opteron to the roster as well.

(blitz, link check please.)


----------



## Parabellum

...........It's gotta be dead. This has never happened to me before.

I have a zalman something or another, worth like 40 new.

I turn on my pc, fans and lights come on then 3 seconds later everything shuts off..


----------



## euphoricmix

Parabellum, did you ever get your HSF to mount properly. With the amount of heat coming off those cores, if it is not in full, direct contact it will overheat and you computer will automatically shut down.

In my secondary rig, my Scynthe Ninja one of the push pins was not secured properly and not fully seated on my Smithy. Same thing happened, and once I got the push pin all the way in it was off and running. I hate push pins, convenient, but unreliable.

So if your HSF is not fully seated, make sure it is before you give up hope. Good luck to you.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

What the heck happened here when I was gone?!?

blitz, iandroo, I know we run a pretty relaxed ship here, but that was just uncalled for. Insults that are clearly malicious are not tolerable.

If you want to continue your shenanigans, please do it away from this thread. It's unhealthy for everyone.

We like to josh around and laugh at each other, but nobody gets hurt.

I hope this is the last we see of this kind of behavior here.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I'd have to agree here. There's absolutely no reason to be flat out insulting people here. Edited out.
Put plain and simple, you guys are just being flat out mean to each other. *It needs to stop....if it doesn't I WILL report the posts.*

*EDIT: On a happier note....it is now 100% confirmed, I'm getting a BFG Tech 8800GTS OC 512MB (G92) for my birthday!!!!!!*

EDIT #2: PIONEERISLOUD IS REACHING THE 250 REP MARK!!!! Anyone know if anything cool happens there? I'd also like to make note....don't rep me for this achievement. I want to earn it.


----------



## iandroo888

can i report myself? i want to kick myself out of the community if possible.

im sorry. just hella stressed from these tests lately. blowing hot air at whereever.

*bows* Please accept my greatest apologies for my personal insubordination and misconduct. If thread leader/subleader/forum administration does not accept my apology, I will permanently leave this forum as my own consequence for my actions.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Edited my post since the bad posts have been removed. Don't remove my post I had valid questions!!! Lol.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


can i report myself? i want to kick myself out of the community if possible.

im sorry. just hella stressed from these tests lately. blowing hot air at whereever.

*bows* Please accept my greatest apologies for my personal insubordination and misconduct. If thread leader/subleader/forum administration does not accept my apology, I will permanently leave this forum as my own consequence for my actions.


No need for that.

I'll personally be content if there are no more repeats.

The one who might really appreciate a friendly word is your sparring partner.









We're all brothers here, guys (and gal; didn't forget you, froggy!







). It's inevitable that we'll have our moments when someone says something we don't like, or if an April Fool's joke angers people (why did people get mad?







). But I hope that, at the end of the day, we're all civil enough, polite enough to each other to at least know when to ignore something.

I'm used to being ignored, actually. But please, people, don't ignore this. When we started out, we just wanted a fun little corner of OCN where we can be ourselves and have laughs and maybe even learn a few things here and there. For the most part, we have that. But we can't allow stuff to get out of hand.

And I need *all of YOUR help* to make sure that happens.

Okay. txtmstrjoe is out for now...


----------



## pioneerisloud

I didn't get mad







. I was upset, but not mad.

And I'd also like to make note here sir, I'm trying my best to help keep order in our little corner







. If I'm in twouble, I'll go stand in the other corner for a while with my nose pressed to it







.

Lol....okay, that's enough goofing around, lol. Honestly I wasn't angry at your joke. I was upset I'll admit that, but not angry.


----------



## Parabellum

Quote:



Originally Posted by *euphoricmix*


Parabellum, did you ever get your HSF to mount properly. With the amount of heat coming off those cores, if it is not in full, direct contact it will overheat and you computer will automatically shut down.

In my secondary rig, my Scynthe Ninja one of the push pins was not secured properly and not fully seated on my Smithy. Same thing happened, and once I got the push pin all the way in it was off and running. I hate push pins, convenient, but unreliable.

So if your HSF is not fully seated, make sure it is before you give up hope. Good luck to you.


There's a chance thats the problem. If I let my pc sit, and it's cold when started, it takes a few seconds longer to cut out than if I restart it time after time. I did kinda ghetto rig the black bracket by grinding it down kinda uneven and such.

I will set up my loop tomorrow and let you guys know..

Good night all.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I didn't get mad







. I was upset, but not mad.

And I'd also like to make note here sir, I'm trying my best to help keep order in our little corner







. If I'm in twouble, I'll go stand in the other corner for a while with my nose pressed to it







.

Lol....okay, that's enough goofing around, lol. Honestly I wasn't angry at your joke. I was upset I'll admit that, but not angry.


*sits in another corner facing the corner*









Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


No need for that.

I'll personally be content if there are no more repeats.

The one who might really appreciate a friendly word is your sparring partner.









We're all brothers here, guys (and gal; didn't forget you, froggy!







). It's inevitable that we'll have our moments when someone says something we don't like, or if an April Fool's joke angers people (why did people get mad?







). But I hope that, at the end of the day, we're all civil enough, polite enough to each other to at least know when to ignore something.

I'm used to being ignored, actually. But please, people, don't ignore this. When we started out, we just wanted a fun little corner of OCN where we can be ourselves and have laughs and maybe even learn a few things here and there. For the most part, we have that. But we can't allow stuff to get out of hand.

And I need *all of YOUR help* to make sure that happens.

Okay. txtmstrjoe is out for now...


*ignores txtmstrjoe*







*leaves ocn anyways*









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Parabellum*


There's a chance thats the problem. If I let my pc sit, and it's cold when started, it takes a few seconds longer to cut out than if I restart it time after time. I did kinda ghetto rig the black bracket by grinding it down kinda uneven and such.

I will set up my loop tomorrow and let you guys know..

Good night all.


hmm







hope it works..


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Parabellum*


There's a chance thats the problem. If I let my pc sit, and it's cold when started, it takes a few seconds longer to cut out than if I restart it time after time. I did kinda ghetto rig the black bracket by grinding it down kinda uneven and such.

I will set up my loop tomorrow and let you guys know..

Good night all.


Good luck, Parabellum!


----------



## iandroo888

This is my final notice.

Thanks for everyone being so friendly and helping out when I or anyone else had problems. This is by far, the best, forum i ever joined. It's really saddening that I must leave but thats the only way I can repent/punish myself for my actions towards another member of the club/forum. Again, I am deeply sorry for what I have done. So, my last words, thanks again for everything. Good luck to you all! I wub yooh all! Bye!

Androo


----------



## reberto

Good job guys, you officially made me miss all my S939 CPU's. Here's a list of them

Athlon 64 3000+, got it to 2.85ghz








Athlon 64 3700+, only got it to 2.75 ghz








Athlon 64 X2 3800+ Toledo core, got it to 2.89ghz







But after a few weeks it started to die (aka made my PC crash and reboot) so I replaced it
Opteron 170, got it to 2.95ghz with 1.32vCore







Eventually sold it to upgrade to the hell that is Intel


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


This is my final notice.

Thanks for everyone being so friendly and helping out when I or anyone else had problems. This is by far, the best, forum i ever joined. It's really saddening that I must leave but thats the only way I can repent/punish myself for my actions towards another member of the club/forum. So, my last words, thanks again for everything. Good luck to you all! Bye!

Androo


Dude, I appreciate your sincerity. But it's enough that you yourself recognize that you made some mistakes in the heat of the moment.

Self-exile/self-martyrdom is not necessary. You're one of us, and that you shall stay.

I did what I did to prevent any future flareups. To be perfectly honest, I've been dreading the day when something like this would happen; I'm sorry you were involved so directly.

Do what you think is right, even if I assure you absolutely that I don't think leaving us *is* right. Always know you have a place here.

You have my respect.

- Joe


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *reberto*


Good job guys, you officially made me miss all my S939 CPU's. Here's a list of them

Athlon 64 3000+, got it to 2.85ghz








Athlon 64 3700+, only got it to 2.75 ghz








Athlon 64 X2 3800+ Toledo core, got it to 2.89ghz







But after a few weeks it started to die (aka made my PC crash and reboot) so I replaced it
Opteron 170, got it to 2.95ghz with 1.32vCore







Eventually sold it to upgrade to the hell that is Intel










Aha! A familiar name!

Yo reberto, for formal inclusion into the club, we'll need a CPU-Z screenie or validation link for any/every S939 chip you may have. You can PM me, thlnk3r, or pioneerisloud, or post these in the thread, and you'll be added onto the roster.

If you don't have those links anymore, I'll still add you as a "S939 Nostalgic" member.


----------



## reberto

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Aha! A familiar name!

Yo reberto, for formal inclusion into the club, we'll need a CPU-Z screenie or validation link for any/every S939 chip you may have. You can PM me, thlnk3r, or pioneerisloud, or post these in the thread, and you'll be added onto the roster.

If you don't have those links anymore, I'll still add you as a "S939 Nostalgic" member.










X2: http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=196967
3700+: http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=156504
3000+ http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=144741 (seems I only got a CPU-Z up to 2.6ghz, oh well lol)
I'm sad that I never got a CPU-Z of my 170 though


----------



## froggy1986

Welcome to the club reberto....btw very nice oc's


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Welcome, reberto!

You are now in our roster.


----------



## reberto

My CPU-Z's were all the max overclocks I got with them. I could never use them 24/7 due to the speed making my sound card crackly and pop. But having them at 2.9 or lower, all was well. I personally blame my CFX3200 though


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Parabellum* 
If I let my pc sit, and it's cold when started, it takes a few seconds longer to cut out than if I restart it time after time.

Parabellum, thats a clear sign of an overheating issue. I doubt anything is damaged. Make sure you let us know tomorrow how it goes









Welcome to the thread Reberto


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Update: I've added a new section to the first post in the thread. I provided links to stress test/stability test programs that I have experience in, and those which I believe are the best available today.

If anybody has any more that they would like to share, I'd be more than glad to post these as well. Just post the link here, and it will be added to the first post as well if it's a good one.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Update: I've added a new section to the first post in the thread. I provided links to stress test/stability test programs that I have experience in, and those which I believe are the best available today.

If anybody has any more that they would like to share, I'd be more than glad to post these as well. Just post the link here, and it will be added to the first post as well if it's a good one.










great idea! btw shoot the info I need on wink wink for the contest


----------



## Blitz6804

Great job on that X2 3800+ reberto, welcome to the club!

I am going to be running S&M in about 10 minutes. I will luckily be at school during most of the test, so I should remain a member of the living.


----------



## Blitz6804

Joe, I recommend putting a disclaimer/liability indemnification next to the S&M link on the first post. While I do not anticipate any problems, it might be a good idea to let people know that S&M is a serious stress tester, and it should not be run on old/questionable parts.


----------



## THEoBZ

I have a 3700+ @ 2.8ghz stable. Could I be added to the list?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *THEoBZ*


I have a 3700+ @ 2.8ghz stable. Could I be added to the list?


yep,just get a CPU-Z validation link for Joe and he'll set you up.


----------



## Blitz6804

I am now SnM stable at my present Sig stats. See attached:

Click me!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I am now SnM stable at my present Sig stats. See attached:

Click me!


Blitz, congrats


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I've been running some tests on my S&M-stable gaming rig (Opteron 170 @ 2.8GHz), trying to determine what is the lowest possible VCore BIOS setting which also is S&M-stable.

I've had a few interesting findings.

First is that Poser was right when he said (a few weeks ago) that VCore directly affects the effectiveness of the IMC. Intuitively I suspected he was right, and when you really think deeply about things, it's easy to see why. As I recall, Poser also suggested that since the IMC is integrated, you cannot starve it of VCore; if you do, RAM will be affected. This explanation is right on the nose.









My gaming rig stays stable through multiple S&M runs at 2.8GHz, 1.2875V VCore (BIOS setting). The problem, though, is that sometimes, when idle, the rig will lock up. It's a phenomenon that happens intermittently. I'm pretty sure it's a VCore-related issue since I've changed no other setting in the BIOS.

Another interesting finding is that VCore's effects on CPU core temperatures is not nearly as influential as ambient temperatures. In other words, I had expected a .6V drop in VCore to really be reflected in CPU temps. My findings were that the VCore drop of .6V drop in VCore resulted in, at most, a 1 degree C drop in core temps. Ambient temperatures still had a much greater influence.

I hope someone can find this information interesting and useful. Better yet, it'll be interesting if someone can run similar experiments and corroborate my observations. It's one way to eliminate dodgy systems/components, and we can definitively conclude that this is predictable system behavior.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I've been running some tests on my S&M-stable gaming rig (Opteron 170 @ 2.8GHz), trying to determine what is the lowest possible VCore BIOS setting which also is S&M-stable.

I've had a few interesting findings.

First is that Poser was right when he said (a few weeks ago) that VCore directly affects the effectiveness of the IMC. Intuitively I suspected he was right, and when you really think deeply about things, it's easy to see why. As I recall, Poser also suggested that since the IMC is integrated, you cannot starve it of VCore; if you do, RAM will be affected. This explanation is right on the nose.









*My gaming rig stays stable through multiple S&M runs at 2.8GHz, 1.2875V VCore (BIOS setting). The problem, though, is that sometimes, when idle, the rig will lock up. It's a phenomenon that happens intermittently. I'm pretty sure it's a VCore-related issue since I've changed no other setting in the BIOS. 
*
Another interesting finding is that VCore's effects on CPU core temperatures is not nearly as influential as ambient temperatures. In other words, I had expected a .6V drop in VCore to really be reflected in CPU temps. My findings were that the VCore drop of .6V drop in VCore resulted in, at most, a 1 degree C drop in core temps. Ambient temperatures still had a much greater influence.

I hope someone can find this information interesting and useful. Better yet, it'll be interesting if someone can run similar experiments and corroborate my observations. It's one way to eliminate dodgy systems/components, and we can definitively conclude that this is predictable system behavior.










interesting. my rig is stable but soemtimes it jsut locks up randomly. temps are fine and im not doin anything intensive. or anythign at all. its random. liek last night.. i was studying and talkin to a friend for help on AIM. and it locks up randomly. im like uhhhhh @[email protected] lol


----------



## Blitz6804

The entire extent of my voltage games have been due to CnQ.

At idle with CnQ shut off (1.340 V), I get 30/35Âº C.
At idle with CnQ turned on (1.088 V), I get 25/27Âº C.

So a 0.252 V difference amounts to a difference of 5/8Âº C.

An average of 0.0387 V per degree Celsius, all things being equal.

I do not know what will happen under load (because CnQ shuts off) but if I have a chance, I will try it for you later.

Oh, and small tidbit of information:

With my DDRV = 2.78 V (2.70 V in the BIOS), I am 100% S&M stable
With my DDRV = 2.67 V (2.60 V in the BIOS), I am about OCNS2 stable. I get that cursed blue screen with "IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL." What does that mean for me? It means I am going to keep overvolting my RAM and they are going to darn well like it!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


interesting. my rig is stable but soemtimes it jsut locks up randomly. temps are fine and im not doin anything intensive. or anythign at all. its random. liek last night.. i was studying and talkin to a friend for help on AIM. and it locks up randomly. im like uhhhhh @[email protected] lol


I'm not at all surprised. I bet you that the random lock ups is due to insufficient VCore for the overclock.

We have the same motherboard, so I'm fairly certain that it's a quirk of the board more than anything else.


----------



## Parabellum

CPU looks to be dead







Unless there's something I overlooked when putting everything back, it's not showing any signs of life..


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Parabellum*


CPU looks to be dead







Unless there's something I overlooked when putting everything back, it's not showing any signs of life..


Parabellum, what are the symptoms? Does the machine power on? Do you get a POST screen? Any beep codes?

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I have a question for all the 939ers. What sort of memory bandwidths do you get? Theoretically, DDR400 (PC-3200) should be 3.2 GBps no? How does dual-channel factor into things?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


How does dual-channel factor into things?


Blitz, with dual channel you have seperate channels accessing the memory control which increases throughput (bandwidth). I think others here and myself would need to run some Sandra benchmarks for comparison...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I have a question for all the 939ers. What sort of memory bandwidths do you get? Theoretically, DDR400 (PC-3200) should be 3.2 GBps no? How does dual-channel factor into things?


When I get home from work, I'll upload a chart of RAM bandwidth data. I can't remember what the results are, of course (which is why I keep charts for such things), but manipulating such things as the various timings parameters has a discernable effect on bandwidth and RAM access latencies.

FYI, the spreadsheet was made with OpenOffice's Calc program (I'm not sure if MS Excel can read it).

Edit: The experiments where the data came from are on hold as I need some new RAM to test with. My ancient Patriot PC3200LLK set finally kicked the bucket during these tests.


----------



## Blitz6804

Thanks txtmstrjoe. If MSE07 cannot open it, I have three Ubuntu PCs, each of them have OpenOffice, so I should have no problems.

I had always though that dual-channel had doubled the bandwidth, but judging on what I got on SiSoftware Sandra (3780 or so) I would guess not. My theoretical bandwidth is 3144 since I have the RAM running at DDR393.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Thanks txtmstrjoe. If MSE07 cannot open it, I have three Ubuntu PCs, each of them have OpenOffice, so I should have no problems.

I had always though that dual-channel had doubled the bandwidth, but judging on what I got on SiSoftware Sandra (3780 or so) I would guess not. My theoretical bandwidth is 3144 since I have the RAM running at DDR393.


Anytime.









An easy way to demonstrate dual channel would be to run one set of tests on one channel, and then another set of tests on two.

The only wrinkle is, I'm pretty sure my testing rig (if not most dual-channel rigs) would freak out if the DIMMs are installed in different channels. I'm pretty sure my DFI would fail POST if the DIMMs were not mounted properly (a finicky motherboard, she is).


----------



## Parabellum

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Parabellum, what are the symptoms? Does the machine power on? Do you get a POST screen? Any beep codes?

Good luck


Machine powers on, I can hear either the Hd's or the dvd burner spooling up, normal functioning as if the cpu was working, but no video, and my light in my keyboard isn't lighting up.

No POST screen, no beeps.


----------



## Blitz6804

No beeps? Have you tried clearing the CMOS just for curiosity's sake? For fun, also try completely removing the CPU and powering up. Do you get a beep code then?


----------



## Blitz6804

And regards memory: SiSoftware Sandra reads a different value than Everest.

Sandra reads around 3780 MBps.
Everest reads around 5690 MBps.

So my dual-channel seems to not quite double the RAM speed. Based on my RAM speed (DDR393), theoretical should be 3144 MBps, or 6288 MBps in dual-channel mode.

Based on the bandwidth I actually got, I would have single-channel DDR355 RAM. It could also be that I have a crudload of programs running... I will try that later.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Parabellum* 
Machine powers on, I can hear either the Hd's or the dvd burner spooling up, normal functioning as if the cpu was working, but no video, and my light in my keyboard isn't lighting up.

No POST screen, no beeps.

Parabellum, unplug your hard drive(s) and optical drive(s). Clear your CMOS like Blitz suggested and run only 1 stick of memory. If there is anything else plugged in like a floppy drive or any external USB ports ect just unplug them. Right now we only need the basics plugged in so we can get a POST screen. Have you tried testing with a different PSU? Make sure all the power connectors are connected firmly. Take the board out of the case and run it naked on a non-static surface and also test it that way. Perhaps maybe something is shorting out your board like a standoff.

Let us know

Good luck


----------



## Parabellum

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
No beeps? Have you tried clearing the CMOS just for curiosity's sake? For fun, also try completely removing the CPU and powering up. Do you get a beep code then?

I just took it out and it isn't making i beeping noise, with the cpu out I didn't hear anything spooling up and my dvd won't open this time..I'm gonna try another cpu before I start taking everything apart.


----------



## Blitz6804

That is a good plan. Every motherboard I have used (note, I am leaving open the possibility that others do not follow that) have a particular beep code for no RAM, no CPU, or no GPU. My theory was, if you got a beep code with no CPU, but no beep code with your CPU, it was not completely dead; id est, the motherboard could recognize there was a CPU there.

You can check with txtmstrjoe on this, he has the same motherboard you do, as well as iandroo888 if memory serves me.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Attached is the spreadsheet of RAM bandwidth data I'd gathered in my RAM bandwidth experiments.

It's incomplete at this point, but I'll have to restart the experiment as I'll be using a different set of RAM when I have my next go at it.

Since the RAM I was using to gather these results was damaged, then it's possible that the results might be incorrect in some way. For the record, these numbers are the mean average of three runs of the Everest Ultimate RAM bandwidth benchmark for each setting. The SuperPi runs were the best of three runs for each setting as well.

Where the cells are empty is where the RAM simply could not allow a successful POST; therefore, no data was gathered. The lime green highlighted cells denote stock settings; the yellow highlighted cells chart interesting changes in results as the settings change.

Note: The file is attached as a .zip file because OCN does not recognize .calc attachments.


----------



## Xyro TR1

TODAY IS A GOOD DAY!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

@ Xyro!


----------



## Xyro TR1

Overclocking to come later, I'm just glad it WORKS!! I'll have my case pics up in a bit, too. =)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*


Overclocking to come later, I'm just glad it WORKS!! I'll have my case pics up in a bit, too. =)


Yes!

Must... overclock... Opteron!

Must... post... rig... pictures!

DFI motherboard for free if you win.







Free CoolerMaster case for second place.









(But if you ask me, the best prize is for 3rd place: Lamintated case badges! W00t!)


----------



## Xyro TR1

Case pictures up! Woot!!

I'm in such a good mood! =D


----------



## pioneerisloud

Glad to see somebody else joined our Opteronage! Hope that 180 serves you as well as my 165 does me, and my fiance's (froggy's) 170 serves her







. Now lets see how this 180 overclocks







.


----------



## Xyro TR1

I have work in six hours, but I figured I'd quickly clock it up to 2.6Ghz. Ran a 3DMark 06 without crashing, and I'm leaving it on tonight, so we'll see if it's stable. =)

See ya tomorrow. I wonder if it'll hit 3Ghz aircooled.....


----------



## Blitz6804

Okay txtmstrjoe, I have upped my voltage like I said I would.

My CPU voltage is now 1.488 V. Idle temperatures with CnQ shut off are 37/43Âº C.
Recall at the stock 1.328 V, idle temperatures with CnQ shut off are 32/37Âº C.

That means that I gained 1Âº C for each 0.0291 V added.

Due to a limitation of my motherboard, turning on CnQ no longer adjusts the voltage, but only the multiplier, and so discussions about temperatures there would be flawed.

Now I will be attempting to boot at a low voltage, expect this post to be edited soon.

EDIT: I set it to 1.000 V in the BIOS, and it seems to have booted back at Auto. Trying again, but less aggressively now.

EDIT2: What the strange? Unless I have it set to Auto, greater than 1.350 V, or less than 1.000 V (which is then treated as auto) it will not boot. So above is all the experimentation I can foreseeably do.

EDIT3: Yes, I know that the temps above were 2Âº C higher than in my signature. The reason being, is at time of the above testing, my heat was on. Now that it is off, it has dropped to where it belongs.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Okay txtmstrjoe, I have upped my voltage like I said I would.

My CPU voltage is now 1.488 V. Idle temperatures with CnQ shut off are 37/43Âº C.
Recall at the stock 1.328 V, idle temperatures with CnQ shut off are 32/37Âº C.

That means that I gained 1Âº C for each 0.0291 V added.

Due to a limitation of my motherboard, turning on CnQ no longer adjusts the voltage, but only the multiplier, and so discussions about temperatures there would be flawed.

Now I will be attempting to boot at a low voltage, expect this post to be edited soon.

EDIT: I set it to 1.000 V in the BIOS, and it seems to have booted back at Auto. Trying again, but less aggressively now.

EDIT2: What the strange? Unless I have it set to Auto, greater than 1.350 V, or less than 1.000 V (which is then treated as auto) it will not boot. So above is all the experimentation I can foreseeably do.

EDIT3: Yes, I know that the temps above were 2Âº C higher than in my signature. The reason being, is at time of the above testing, my heat was on. Now that it is off, it has dropped to where it belongs.


Brings to mind another favorite overclocker's adage: YMMV (Your mileage may vary).









I don't doubt the integrity of your findings/observations, actually. I think that what we're seeing here is the effect of radically different CPU configurations (my CPU runs sans IHS) allied with totally different air coolers (plus the effect of the unique aerodynamics of our respective PC cases). I'm pretty sure that the fact that I never run CnQ also has a radical effect on your observations as well.

For sure, though, there is a minimum required VCore setting for a successful boot-up. It's very likely that this setting varies motherboard by motherboard, in my opinion.

Thanks for sharing your findings.


----------



## Blitz6804

I agree completely. I am sure the only way I can hit 3 GHz with this motherboard is to get a better multiplying chip (IE, a X2 4800+ / Opteron 180, an Opteron 185, or an FX-60) and the only way this chip can break 3 GHz is get a motherboard with a stabler front side bus.

Yes, ambient temperatures are a much larger factor than voltage modifications. And, even if only based on our two samples, it may be possible to suggest that naked chips will be effected less by voltage than stock chips, which could very well be a reason to strip your chip for overclocking.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I agree completely. I am sure the only way I can hit 3 GHz with this motherboard is to get a better multiplying chip (IE, a X2 4800+ / Opteron 180, an Opteron 185, or an FX-60) and the only way this chip can break 3 GHz is get a motherboard with a stabler front side bus.


Blitz, are you 250HTT * 11? That chipset will do 290HTT. What was the maximum HTT that you tested?

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

The BIOS permits up to a 435 HTT.

HOWEVER

I am S&M stable at 250.

251-254 are suicide stable only.

255+ will not POST.

I have tried dropping my RAM divider to 2:1, taking out two DIMMs, setting vCore = 1.600 V, my HTT multiplier to 2, and my CPU multiplier to 6. No matter what, 255+ will not POST. I have tried as high as 300 and still no avail, so if I have an HTT hole, it is a huge one.

And regards 3DMark06: the reason why I cannot make my system public is because I have a Non-WHQL driver installed. 3DMark06 does not recognize my video card, but instead, calls it a "generic VGA."


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
The BIOS permits up to a 435 HTT.

HOWEVER

I am S&M stable at 250.

251-254 are suicide stable only.

255+ will not POST.

I have tried dropping my RAM divider to 2:1, taking out two DIMMs, setting vCore = 1.600 V, my HTT multiplier to 2, and my CPU multiplier to 6. No matter what, 255+ will not POST. I have tried as high as 300 and still no avail, so if I have an HTT hole, it is a huge one.

And regards 3DMark06: the reason why I cannot make my system public is because I have a Non-WHQL driver installed. 3DMark06 does not recognize my video card, but instead, calls it a "generic VGA."

Blitz, did you try providing more voltage to the chipset?

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

No, I cannot say that I have. I do not know what setting controls that. Is that the "HT-Link Voltage Control" setting in my BIOS? The following is the page about my overclocking features taken straight from the manual PDF. Yes, seriously, that is all I have.*










You HAVE to love the grammar:

"Incorrect using these features may cause your system broken. For power end-user use only."

*Meaning the manual. I also have access to memory timings and subtimings, but those are absent from the manual.


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz, did you disable the "spectrum" options in your BIOS?


----------



## Blitz6804

I have not. As with everything about computers, if I do not understand it, I refuse to touch it.

Upping the HT-Link voltage will permit me to POST as high as 273 (what I would need to be 3 GHz), but it cannot load Windows. Nor at 255 still.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I have not. As with everything about computers, if I do not understand it, I refuse to touch it.

Upping the HT-Link voltage will permit me to POST as high as 273 (what I would need to be 3 GHz), but it cannot load Windows. Nor at 255 still.

Blitz, anything that is related to _Spread Spectrum_ in your BIOS please disable it and report back.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

As suggested, I have disabled it.

I bumped the FSB to 254 and am at least mildly stable. I will be running 3DMark06 quick to see if that will push it over the line.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I agree completely. I am sure the only way I can hit 3 GHz with this motherboard is to get a better multiplying chip (IE, a X2 4800+ / Opteron 180, an Opteron 185, or an FX-60) and the only way this chip can break 3 GHz is get a motherboard with a stabler front side bus.

Yes, ambient temperatures are a much larger factor than voltage modifications. And, even if only based on our two samples, it may be possible to suggest that naked chips will be effected less by voltage than stock chips, which could very well be a reason to strip your chip for overclocking.


or............you could get a 4000+ san deigo














j/k







GOOD LUCK


----------



## Blitz6804

Nah, for me, single core is not an option anymore, I am to used to multi-threading.

254 was 3DMark06 stable.

255 would not POST.

I am getting REALLY friggin tired of clearing the CMOS. I think at this point, I am going to scramble the BIOS password so I cannot touch it anymore.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Spread Spectrum=a no no for OC'ers


----------



## Blitz6804

What does it do anyway? Since I am back at my old-gray-horse settings, I put it back on.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


What does it do anyway? Since I am back at my old-gray-horse settings, I put it back on.


Spread-spectrum


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, I was just reading that. I do not see why it is bad for overclocks though. If it reduces EMI, is not that a good thing?

Another question: What the heck is AGP Aperture Size? What size should it be? The Motherboard defaults to 32mb. When it is as such, I show 3.5 GB of RAM. When I set it to 512mb (the size of my graphic card's memory), I show 2.5 GB of RAM.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Yeah, I was just reading that. I do not see why it is bad for overclocks though. If it reduces EMI, is not that a good thing?

Another question: What the heck is AGP Aperture Size? What size should it be? The Motherboard defaults to 32mb. When it is as such, I show 3.5 GB of RAM. When I set it to 512mb (the size of my graphic card's memory), I show 2.5 GB of RAM.


I'm not sure about AGP,it's been years since I used that type of card.As far as SS. I had always thought and read that it hindered OC'ing. hmmm....now that I think of it,I'm going to see what happens when I turn it on.


----------



## Blitz6804

I think I figured it out. It is system memory that gets set aside to be used to store texture maps. There is a hypothetical happy medium for every system, for as you give the card more room to wiggle, there will be less RAM for everyone else.

Apparently, AGP Aperture Size is equal twice the setting in the BIOS. So when I set it to 512 MB, I dropped down to 2.5 GB of remaining RAM. I am going to run 3DMark06 now at 128 and see if I see any improvement.

EDIT: The result? My score went down like 50 points.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
I'm not sure about AGP,it's been years since I used that type of card.As far as SS. I had always thought and read that it hindered OC'ing. hmmm....now that I think of it,I'm going to see what happens when I turn it on.









Testing FTW!


----------



## pioneerisloud

I would have to agree, spread spectrum is USUALLY a bad thing with overclocking. When I first enter the BIOS on a new motherboard, that's the first thing I disable...ANY spread spectrum. Its really only useful if you're moving your computer around a LOT (ex. LAN rigs). If you're rig is stationary 99% of the time, then there's no reason to leave it on.

As far as Aperture size (don't know about correct spelling), I USUALLY will match it to the memory size of the GPU. However your results may vary since you have 4GB of RAM. It would be SOO much easier for you if you had 64 bit OS







.

Good luck!

BTW, today was like christmas for me!!!! I had 6 or 7 packages to open today!! All were older Socket A stuff, but still







.


----------



## Blitz6804

Socket A, Socket 939... it is AMD, so it is all good!

I never wanted to get 64-bit XP because I heard of a lot of driver compatibility issues. When I bought my Vista Ultimate, only the 32-bit version was $15. The 64-bit version was $100.

When I reinstall Ubuntu, I will likely try the 64-bit version.


----------



## Blitz6804

I usually edit, but I thought this deserved its own post:

If you have Microsoft Office products, and refuse to get OpenOffice Suite, you can still use documents made from the latter! (Such as txtmstrjoe's RAM spreadsheet.) All it takes is a small, unobtrusive plug-in:

OXML/ODF Translator

Unfortunately, you need to install one each for Excel, Word, and Powerpoint, but that is the price you pay for sticking it to "da M$ man."


----------



## euphoricmix

So yesterday I lapped my processor and heat sink, (*cough*)_at work_(*cough*). It took me one hour and forty minutes to get the nickel layer off with 220 grit. The rest of the steps went pretty good on the processor, total time two hours and forty minutes.

My heat sink was as flat as they came, and the polish was really great, but it had some micro-ridges, caused by machining the bottom, that you could feel slightly with a fingernail. So I only had about an hour and thirty minutes into that. Anyone ever try to do a Zalman 7700 before? Keeping it level and not damaging the fins was a chore, probably one pass per five seconds on the sand paper is all. What a pain in the ass, if it had an hardened metal covering it would have taken days to break through it.

Right now my temps Folding are down around 2*c. We will have to see what they are after my AS5 has a chance to break in, hopefully shaving another 2-3*c will be possible.


----------



## euphoricmix

Server glitch, double post.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *euphoricmix*


Right now my temps Folding are down around 2*c. We will have to see what they are after my AS5 has a chance to break in, hopefully shaving another 2-3*c will be possible.


I read that wrong at first. I saw:

Temps are down around, 2Âº C

rather than the intended:

Temps are down, around 2Âº C

Oh well.

Good job euphoricmix. I saw my AC5 drop around 10-15Âº C between first booting and being fully set, so your hopes of 2-3Âº C is not unreasonable; but if it is, you will likely be looking at 4-5Âº C.

And do not worry about the four hours, ten minutes. All that matters is that the job went off without a hitch and you are seeing performance gains.


----------



## euphoricmix

I hope you are right about the 4-5*c drops. I thought my initial temps would be better because of how out of whack my processor was. I was showing some copper after 10 minutes towards the outside of the processor, and was at 70% after an hour, and it took another 40 minutes to get that last little bit off.

I guess a little time will tell how effective it was. Even a 2*c net loss in temperature is a good thing.


----------



## Blitz6804

I actually noticed a larger drop in idle temps than I did load temps. As Joe is prone to saying:

"[Other's experiences] merely indicate possible outcomes due to the law of averages being in your favor."

and

"[A]nother favorite overclocker's adage: YMMV (Your mileage may vary)."

I wish you the best of luck, the lower the temps, the longer your rig can serve your every whim and desire!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

boonie's post in our Club Contest thread (about there being Opteron 170s available on NewEgg sometime this morning; they're all sold out, unfortunately) made me realize something about Socket 939:

It's a true *CLASSIC* in modern computing.

I mean, think about it for a sec. You still see S754 parts (motherboards, CPUs), some Socket A, and a lot of various Intel chips (new and old) being sold all over the place.

Yet try to find a decent (never mind good, or great) S939 motherboard, or a dual-core CPU (who buys single-core these days?), it's like trying to find a needle in a haystack.

To me, this just shows that S939 is far from irrelevant, even if it's slower than the latest and the greatest out there and lacks one or two cores.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Page 165!...woot! Go Opty


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Page 165!...woot! Go Opty


























Party on, Wayne!

(Though it's only page 42 for how I display it. LOL)


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
boonie's post in our Club Contest thread (about there being Opteron 170s available on NewEgg sometime this morning; they're all sold out, unfortunately) made me realize something about Socket 939:

It's a true *CLASSIC* in modern computing.

I mean, think about it for a sec. You still see S754 parts (motherboards, CPUs), some Socket A, and a lot of various Intel chips (new and old) being sold all over the place.

Yet try to find a decent (never mind good, or great) S939 motherboard, or a dual-core CPU (who buys single-core these days?), it's like trying to find a needle in a haystack.

To me, this just shows that S939 is far from irrelevant, even if it's slower than the latest and the greatest out there and lacks one or two cores.









just got another nexttag alert , the 170s are available for $129 from ITNETWORKCABLES.COM







see how long they last


----------



## Blitz6804

You gonna upgrade to a dual core boonie2? If they are a good stepping, you can probably keep your 3.0 GHz.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Oh hell no!! I gotta make a post on page 165!!!!

EDIT: WOOT!! I did







.


----------



## iandroo888

omg pg 165 opty ftw!

*edit*

yes! still in page 165 woooo!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

You kids crack me up.

I'm in the low-40s page right now. I'll eventually get to page 165 (if this thread lasts that long...)


----------



## Xyro TR1

So yeah, my motherboard is ghey. I can't run this new crap (Opty 180) overclocked at all. It's just far too unstable. I DID however get it to 2.77Ghz with a 1Ghz HT-Link, and ran 3DMark06, and netted a whole 7 points when comparing to stock speeds. So I've got it set to 2.5Ghz, hopefully it'll be stable here. =(


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1* 
So yeah, my motherboard is ghey. I can't run this new crap (Opty 180) overclocked at all. It's just far too unstable. I DID however get it to 2.77Ghz with a 1Ghz HT-Link, and ran 3DMark06, and netted a whole 7 points when comparing to stock speeds. So I've got it set to 2.5Ghz, hopefully it'll be stable here. =(

Is 2.5GHz the highest stable CPU speed you can get it to?


----------



## iandroo888

i have the a8r32-mvp. doesnt seem too hard to oc. u might be doin somethin wrong =P

what stepping was that opty?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
i have the a8r32-mvp. doesnt seem too hard to oc. u might be doin somethin wrong =P

what stepping was that opty?

Not quite the same mobo, iandroo.







You have the better, newer version of the ATI chipset.

Wish I had gotten that A8R32-MVP instead of my Abit AT8 32X, actually.

Or, better yet, a DFI LANParty CFX3200...


----------



## Mootsfox

Started on S939, then jumped to a Quad.

3500 @2.4 -> 165 @ 2.6 -> 170 @ 3.0 -> QUAD POWA (sorry guyz)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mootsfox* 
Started on S939, then jumped to a Quad.

3500 @2.4 -> 165 @ 2.6 -> 170 @ 3.0 -> QUAD POWA (sorry guyz)

LOL

Are you saying you want in?

'cause I know a guy who can totally make it happen.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mootsfox* 
Started on S939, then jumped to a Quad.

3500 @2.4 -> 165 @ 2.6 -> 170 @ 3.0 -> QUAD POWA (sorry guyz)

Well maybe you could still be added to the "S939 Nostalgics" section? And there's no reason to be sorry







. You moved onto the bigger / badder machine (I sooooo hate saying that), I don't blame ya. If I could afford it, my sig rig would probably be a C2D / C2Q. Not because I like Intel or anything, but because its currently the best out there







.

The point however is though....these 939 chips STILL TO THIS DAY will give a C2D (Core 2 Duo, NOT QUAD) a run for their money....and its what, 5-6 year old technology? Quite impressive, no







?


----------



## DuRoc

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Well maybe you could still be added to the "S939 Nostalgics" section? And there's no reason to be sorry







. You moved onto the bigger / badder machine (I sooooo hate saying that), I don't blame ya. If I could afford it, my sig rig would probably be a C2D / C2Q. Not because I like Intel or anything, but because its currently the best out there







.

The point however is though....these 939 chips STILL TO THIS DAY will give a C2D (Core 2 Duo, NOT QUAD) a run for their money....and its what, 5-6 year old technology? Quite impressive, no







?


Yep still impressive indeed. I still have much love for my opty 165.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


You gonna upgrade to a dual core boonie2? If they are a good stepping, you can probably keep your 3.0 GHz.


I am yes , weve been stalking ebay looking for a decent stepping chip , theyre mostly ccbwe 0551s or ccbwe 0607s so far tho , and from my googleing those arnt really good steppings to reach 3.0 ...holding out for a ccb1e 0609 or lcb9e 0704 [bidding on ebay for this one now]...since my board isnt the greatest overclocker .... sooner or later hopefully







.. any recomendations on steppings would be a help.......... thanks


----------



## Blitz6804

If I had the money, I would be purchasing an AMD Phenom 9850 Black Box Edition and Radeon HD 3870x2 quad-crossfire system.

Oh to have money! (>_<)


----------



## boonie2

any opinions on which processor upgrade would work best with my system? the opty 170 or maybe the 4800 x2? i think maybe im the only person on the planet still running a single core lol


----------



## Blitz6804

If you want a fast processor out of the box, go for the 4800 X2.
Note: 3.0 GHz requires a FSB of 250.

If you want a high-endurance overclocker, go for the Opty 170.
Note: 3.0 GHz requires a FSB of 300.

Maybe you wish to buy me a 4800 and have my clean 4400? It has only been overclocked for about two months of its life.


----------



## euphoricmix

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


any opinions on which processor upgrade would work best with my system? the opty 170 or maybe the 4800 x2? i think maybe im the only person on the planet still running a single core lol


Yes you are, lol!

If you can not obtain a FSB of 290MHz or higher I would go with a Opteron 170 or an Opteron 175. There still are retail Opteron 175's around, and it seems people who get them are receiving CCBBE type steppings, but there is no guarantee. There is a seller on eBay unloading Opteron 170's for $127, and I bet if you inquired about the stepping before buying the seller would disclose that information.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


If you want a fast processor out of the box, go for the 4800 X2.
Note: 3.0 GHz requires a FSB of 250.

If you want a high-endurance overclocker, go for the Opty 170.
Note: 3.0 GHz requires a FSB of 300.

Maybe you wish to buy me a 4800 and have my clean 4400? It has only been overclocked for about two months of its life.


sure ill buy you 2 , lol thanx for the input the 4800s are harder to find than the optys right now ......... 8 hrs till the end of the ebay auction for the lcb9e 0704 opty 170 .. wish me luck


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *euphoricmix*


Yes you are, lol!

If you can not obtain a FSB of 290MHz or higher I would go with a Opteron 170 or an Opteron 175. There still are retail Opteron 175's around, and it seems people who get them are receiving CCBBE type steppings, but there is no guarantee. There is a seller on eBay unloading Opteron 170's for $127, and I bet if you inquired about the stepping before buying the seller would disclose that information.


is that the same guy charging $25 shipping? been there already







i think his steppings are all ccbwe 0551s if its the same guy


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


sure ill buy you 2 , lol thanx for the input the 4800s are harder to find than the optys right now ......... 8 hrs till the end of the ebay auction for the lcb9e 0704 opty 170 .. wish me luck










Like I said before, my MoBo seems to top out at FSB=250, MAYBE 254 if not exactly stable. If I have a 12x multiplier, I would finally hit the 3 GHz mark. If I could figure out how to stabilize the 254 FSB, I would also have the RAM running at stock DDR 400 (but that is an IMC overclock of 20%).

Good luck on your auction!


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Like I said before, my MoBo seems to top out at FSB=250, MAYBE 254 if not exactly stable. If I have a 12x multiplier, I would finally hit the 3 GHz mark. If I could figure out how to stabilize the 254 FSB, I would also have the RAM running at stock DDR 400 (but that is an IMC overclock of 20%).

Good luck on your auction!


thanx


----------



## Blitz6804

Oh, and one other thing. The X2 is 89 W. The Opteron is 110 W. Max safe temperature for an X2 is 71Âº C. Max safe temperature for an Opteron is 65Âº C.

Talk to Pioneer though, I think he lived in the 80Âº C range for a time if I remember right.

You know... my Birthday is in exactly 5 weeks to the day. I found a few Opty-180s for about $160-190 using Google Search if anyone is feeling generous. 4800 X2s run for about $180-240.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


*Oh, and one other thing. The X2 is 89 W. The Opteron is 110 W. Max safe temperature for an X2 is 71Âº C. Max safe temperature for an Opteron is 65Âº C.*

Talk to Pioneer though, I think he lived in the 80Âº C range for a time if I remember right.

You know... my Birthday is in exactly 5 weeks to the day. I found a few Opty-180s for about $160-190 using Google Search if anyone is feeling generous. 4800 X2s run for about $180-240.


To clarify, there actually were two types of X2 Toledos as far as TDP were concerned. As you mentioned, there was a 89W TDP Toledo (X2 4400+ and X2 4800+), and a "normal" 110W one (which is the identical chip as the dual-core Opteron Denmark). As far as I know, dual-core Opteron Denmarks were never sold in the lower TDP flavor.

I actually have one of those 89W Toledos, an X2 4400+ now mounted in my father's machine. It's a CCBWE, and it topped out at 2.72GHz on 1.5ishV VCore.

Good advice being flung around here, and good info as far as matching your boards with chips you're looking for.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes, good call txtmstrjoe. I forgot that the 4200 and 4600 were also Toledos. Accordingly, rephrase my earlier post to say:

If your TDP is 110W, your max "safe" temperature according to AMD is 65ÂºC.
If your TDP is 89W, your max "safe" temperature according to AMD is 71ÂºC.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Yes, good call txtmstrjoe. I forgot that the 4200 and 4600 were also Toledos.


Hehe, now this is where things get really tricky.

By the end of the S939 production run, all CPUs off the production line but the single-core 512MB L2 cache chips (ex-Venice CPUs) were actually Toledo/Denmark cores.

CPUs such as the Manchester X2 3800+, X2 4200+, and X2 4600+ were showing up as Toledos; a similar thing was happening with single-core San Diego 3700+ and 4000+. The ex-Manchester dual-core chips showing up as Toledos on CPU-Z were Toledos with half their L2 cache disabled, and the ex-San Diegos were Toledos with one entire core similarly deactivated.

A similar thing went on with the single-core Opteron Venus core chips. Ex-Venus chips were now seen in the wild as Toledos as well, but with one core disabled. Venus = San Diego, just as Denmark = Toledo, by the way.

Now why were we seeing things like this? Though nothing has ever come from AMD in an official capacity, my speculation is that this was a way to cut production costs because they were ramping up production of the then-new AM2 line. It makes sense, though, to produce one type of CPU for S939 (the Denmark/Toledo), then simply bin and disable certain features of said chips to fill the product lines per market demands. By the way, the Phenom Tri-Cores are proof of this AMD strategy; the Tri-Cores are exactly the same as the Quads, except one core is disabled.


----------



## Blitz6804

I have to admit, the Phenom 8xxxs seem a bit silly to me. Since computers like even numbers, why would anyone want a tri-core? And as Iandroo888 and I were musing, would not having a dead corner on the chip cause heat issues?

Then again, I wonder if you buy a tri-core, there is anyway to turn that fourth one back on...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I have to admit, the Phenom 8xxxs seem a bit silly to me. Since computers like even numbers, why would anyone want a tri-core? And as Iandroo888 and I were musing, would not having a dead corner on the chip cause heat issues?

Then again, I wonder if you buy a tri-core, there is anyway to turn that fourth one back on...


Tri-Cores aren't as silly as certain market sectors might suggest. Until the advent of dual-cores, every single chip had an odd-number of processor cores in the consumer market, remember...

All things being equal, three cores are better than two; this is meant to compete with dual-core CPUs, and not quad-core. One core could theoretically attend to OS and background services, with two left for the heavy lifting. Compare that to a dual-core's load distribution.









As far as thermal issues are concerned, I don't think this would be a problem either. The core die is so much smaller than the base of the heatsink. As long as the contact between the IHS and the HSF base is good and if thermal transference was optimal, then the unequal triangular arrangement of heat sources would not be a problem whatsoever.

Finally, any feature that's disabled by the factory is impossible to re-enable, as far as I know. I think some laser excision is involved in disabling that fourth (likely defective) core.


----------



## Blitz6804

While true that 1 is an odd number, that is not what I meant. When I said "even numbers" I meant to say "powers of two."

That is, one core, two cores, four cores, eight cores...

*Starts drooling*

Come on now, how cool would that be if there was such a thing? A dual Phenom 9850 with quad 3870 x2s, and 8 GB (4x2048) of RAM? Who would not give their first born child for such a box?

EDIT: Yes, I realize AMD has canceled the FASN8 platform, but I can dream no?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


While true that 1 is an odd number, that is not what I meant. When I said "even numbers" I meant to say "powers of two."

That is, one core, two cores, four cores, eight cores...

*Starts drooling*

Come on now, how cool would that be if there was such a thing? A dual Phenom 9850 with quad 3870 x2s, and 8 GB (4x2048) of RAM? Who would not give their first born child for such a box?


Blitz, my seti cruncher has 8 cores....granted it's four dual core opteron 8220's. But still that's 8 cores


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


While true that 1 is an odd number, that is not what I meant. When I said "even numbers" I meant to say "powers of two."

That is, one core, two cores, four cores, eight cores...

*Starts drooling*

Come on now, how cool would that be if there was such a thing? A dual Phenom 9850 with quad 3870 x2s, and 8 GB (4x2048) of RAM? * Who would not give their first born child for such a box?*


Not me.









Who NEEDS all that power, anyway? I certainly don't. I'd rather use what I have, and use most or all of it.

A dedicated folder, though, would want all that power.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Not quite the same mobo, iandroo.







You have the better, newer version of the ATI chipset.

Wish I had gotten that A8R32-MVP instead of my Abit AT8 32X, actually.

Or, better yet, a DFI LANParty CFX3200...










haha.. hoping to win that DFI one from club contest. haha. i never played with a DFI board before. maybe it will show me how it competes with my Asus boards









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mootsfox*


Started on S939, then jumped to a Quad.

3500 @2.4 -> 165 @ 2.6 -> 170 @ 3.0 -> QUAD POWA (sorry guyz)


T_T traitor! T_T lol

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Well maybe you could still be added to the "S939 Nostalgics" section? And there's no reason to be sorry







. You moved onto the bigger / badder machine (I sooooo hate saying that), I don't blame ya. If I could afford it, my sig rig would probably be a C2D / C2Q. Not because I like Intel or anything, but because its currently the best out there







.

The point however is though....these 939 chips STILL TO THIS DAY will give a C2D (Core 2 Duo, NOT QUAD) a run for their money....and its what, 5-6 year old technology? Quite impressive, no







?


*nods*

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


I am yes , weve been stalking ebay looking for a decent stepping chip , theyre mostly ccbwe 0551s or ccbwe 0607s so far tho , and from my googleing those arnt really good steppings to reach 3.0 ...holding out for a ccb1e 0609 or lcb9e 0704 [bidding on ebay for this one now]...since my board isnt the greatest overclocker .... sooner or later hopefully







.. any recomendations on steppings would be a help.......... thanks


yeah it takes a while for some decent steppings on ebay. when there are decent ones, price get jacked up pretty high. LCB*E would be a good stepping for both 165 and 170 since they are rebadged toledos. lower vcore. higher clock. CCBBE 0610 and 0617 are good for 165. i have the CCBBE 0617 and clocked at 2.94GHz. i dont know about good steppings for the 170. will ask my friend. he has a 170.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


If I had the money, I would be purchasing an AMD Phenom 9850 Black Box Edition and Radeon HD 3870x2 quad-crossfire system.

Oh to have money! (>_<)


sheesh shush about that already haha

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


any opinions on which processor upgrade would work best with my system? the opty 170 or maybe the 4800 x2? i think maybe im the only person on the planet still running a single core lol


id get opty 170 if possible. 2nd choice would be the 4800 x2.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


sure ill buy you 2 , lol thanx for the input the 4800s are harder to find than the optys right now ......... 8 hrs till the end of the ebay auction for the lcb9e 0704 opty 170 .. wish me luck










ganbatte! him nae! add oil! (add oil is a cantonese saying of encouragement) good luck!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


To clarify, there actually were two types of X2 Toledos as far as TDP were concerned. As you mentioned, there was a 89W TDP Toledo (X2 4400+ and X2 4800+), and a "normal" 110W one (which is the identical chip as the dual-core Opteron Denmark). As far as I know, dual-core Opteron Denmarks were never sold in the lower TDP flavor.

I actually have one of those 89W Toledos, an X2 4400+ now mounted in my father's machine. It's a CCBWE, and it topped out at 2.72GHz on 1.5ishV VCore.

Good advice being flung around here, and good info as far as matching your boards with chips you're looking for.










oOo.. nice to know.. *nods nods*

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Yes, good call txtmstrjoe. I forgot that the 4200 and 4600 were also Toledos. Accordingly, rephrase my earlier post to say:

If your TDP is 110W, your max "safe" temperature according to AMD is 65ÂºC.
If your TDP is 89W, your max "safe" temperature according to AMD is 71ÂºC.


oOo nice info..

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Hehe, now this is where things get really tricky.

By the end of the S939 production run, all CPUs off the production line but the single-core 512MB L2 cache chips (ex-Venice CPUs) were actually Toledo/Denmark cores.

CPUs such as the Manchester X2 3800+, X2 4200+, and X2 4600+ were showing up as Toledos; a similar thing was happening with single-core San Diego 3700+ and 4000+. The ex-Manchester dual-core chips showing up as Toledos on CPU-Z were Toledos with half their L2 cache disabled, and the ex-San Diegos were Toledos with one entire core similarly deactivated.

A similar thing went on with the single-core Opteron Venus core chips. Ex-Venus chips were now seen in the wild as Toledos as well, but with one core disabled. Venus = San Diego, just as Denmark = Toledo, by the way.

Now why were we seeing things like this? Though nothing has ever come from AMD in an official capacity, my speculation is that this was a way to cut production costs because they were ramping up production of the then-new AM2 line. It makes sense, though, to produce one type of CPU for S939 (the Denmark/Toledo), then simply bin and disable certain features of said chips to fill the product lines per market demands. By the way, the Phenom Tri-Cores are proof of this AMD strategy; the Tri-Cores are exactly the same as the Quads, except one core is disabled.


i actually have a 4600+ ccbwe "toledo" x2. didnt have much luck with overclock it. is there any way to unlock the "locked" cache?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I have to admit, the Phenom 8xxxs seem a bit silly to me. Since computers like even numbers, why would anyone want a tri-core? And as Iandroo888 and I were musing, would not having a dead corner on the chip cause heat issues?

Then again, I wonder if you buy a tri-core, there is anyway to turn that fourth one back on...


lol... hi







i was wondering the same thing...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Tri-Cores aren't as silly as certain market sectors might suggest. Until the advent of dual-cores, every single chip had an odd-number of processor cores in the consumer market, remember...

All things being equal, three cores are better than two; this is meant to compete with dual-core CPUs, and not quad-core. One core could theoretically attend to OS and background services, with two left for the heavy lifting. Compare that to a dual-core's load distribution.









As far as thermal issues are concerned, I don't think this would be a problem either. The core die is so much smaller than the base of the heatsink. As long as the contact between the IHS and the HSF base is good and if thermal transference was optimal, then the unequal triangular arrangement of heat sources would not be a problem whatsoever.

Finally, any feature that's disabled by the factory is impossible to re-enable, as far as I know. I think some laser excision is involved in disabling that fourth (likely defective) core.










aww







boo.. how about the l2 cache then haha

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Not me.









Who NEEDS all that power, anyway? I certainly don't. I'd rather use what I have, and use most or all of it.

A dedicated folder, though, would want all that power.


if i had a quad anything. whether its a amd or intel. i would hella fold.


----------



## Blitz6804

I do nothing but mutlitasking txtmstrjoe. Very often I am trying to play games while having a virus scan running and compressing a video at the same time.

It does not work well.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

HOLY multi-quote, Batman!









iandroo, you have something a little off: The dual-core Opterons aren't really "rebadged Toledos." This all resulted from older versions of CPU-Z reporting the Denmark Opterons as Toledos. The truth is, Denmark = Toledo; no rebadging took place at all.







(You can thank AMD Marketing for that, by the way.)

Anything deactivated at the factory cannot be re-enabled, sadly. Core, cache, multiplier modifier (i.e., for unlocked multiplier chips such as the FX-series)... none of these can be changed once they're shipped out. Feature deactivation is usually done by laser excision (it's cut out).

iandroo, you Chinese? LOL Just wondering. (I have some Chinese blood.)

@ blitz: You aren't multi-tasking; your computer is.


----------



## Blitz6804

That is true. I will admit once that I tried playing Civilization IV while simultaneously taking notes in class.

That also did not work well.

Maybe we should all contact AMD and ask for sponsorships and/or to test out the new "Spiders" for being such loyal fans?

And thlnk3r, I am curious. Can you get a decent 3DMark06 CPU score with that rig? Can it game at all?


----------



## iandroo888

stupid AMD. o well haha

awww stupid laser excision technology. shoulda been just a sticker that says "remove me if u want to unlock" haha XD

yes i am. 100% chinese.

@ txtmstrjoe's @ blitz - haha nice


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


That is true. I will admit once that I tried playing Civilization IV while simultaneously taking notes in class.

That also did not work well.


I can imagine.









You're a funny guy, blitz.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Maybe we should all contact AMD and ask for sponsorships and/or to test out the new "Spiders" for being such loyal fans?


I, for one, would love to be part of their test team.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


And thlnk3r, I am curious. Can you get a decent 3DMark06 CPU score with that rig? Can it game at all?


Gotta shout louder; he's eating right now (he told me on PM).


----------



## iandroo888

hmm i should get somethin to eat too.. hungry =/


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
hmm i should get somethin to eat too.. hungry =/

Can you cook? I'm in the mood for some shrimp fried rice and some crispy fried chicken...









Holy off-topic, Batman!


----------



## iandroo888

shrimp fried rice. easy!

crispy chicken.. uh... *gives him coupons for KFC or Popeyes*

yeah i can cook. i can cook a variety of thing! chinese, japanese, italian.. little mexican... some desserts.. thanksgiving/xmas dinner.. lol and bbq =P


----------



## Blitz6804

I cook very well, I just hate cleaning up after it.

Sure you do not want to visit Joe? All you need to do is drive two days to get here and clean every pot while staying, but then you can have gourmet meals daily.

So anyway... what time is it!?


----------



## iandroo888

its only 1:06PM PST..

lol usually mom pays for the ingredients.. i cook. dad cleans ahaha..


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
shrimp fried rice. easy!

crispy chicken.. uh... *gives him coupons for KFC or Popeyes*

yeah i can cook. i can cook a variety of thing! chinese, japanese, italian.. little mexican... some desserts.. thanksgiving/xmas dinner.. lol and bbq =P

Schweeeeeet.

I'm a-headin' out to Vegas someday soon. Can I crash at your place?









Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I cook very well, I just hate cleaning up after it.

Sure you do not want to visit Joe? All you need to do is drive two days to get here and clean every pot while staying, but then you can have gourmet meals daily.

If I'm invited, I'll take you up on that someday. I'll even bring thlnk3r.

Of course, I'll be there to eat; thlnk3r can do the dishes while you cook.

Muhahahahaha

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
So anyway... what time is it!?

It's always 9:39 in Joe's universe. But it's also lunch time!


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Schweeeeeet.

I'm a-headin' out to Vegas someday soon. Can I crash at your place?









If I'm invited, I'll take you up on that someday. I'll even bring thlnk3r.

Of course, I'll be there to eat; thlnk3r can do the dishes while you cook.

Muhahahahaha

rofl sorry but ill take u to some good buffets around town. then go clubbing haha.. ill take some ddr500 as payment hahaha XD


----------



## Blitz6804

I already gave you, pioneer, froggy, and iandroo an invite. If I remember right, you turned me down for a cost-prohibitive gas bill.

But think of the LAN parties to be had? And the food? I do not know if I am the only hybrid PC/Console gamer here, but I have PC, PS3, 360, Wii, PS2, Xbox, GCN, N64, and the SNES, which is probably still my favorite system.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
rofl sorry but ill take u to some good buffets around town. then go clubbing haha.. ill take some ddr500 as payment hahaha XD

ROFL

For DDR500, I'd rather have iandroo-made meals.









Not much of a clubber (maybe I can swing a billy club or a nightstick or any similar object as a weapon), but Vegas buffets...









Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I already gave you, pioneer, froggy, and iandroo an invite. If I remember right, you turned me down for a cost-prohibitive gas bill.

But think of the LAN parties to be had? And the food? I do not know if I am the only hybrid PC/Console gamer here, but I have PC, PS3, 360, Wii, PS2, Xbox, GCN, N64, and the SNES, which is probably still my favorite system.

Therein lies a problem: I don't remember things very well. I have, um, a very poor IMC in me head...









Sounds great, though!









My lord, man, you say you're a law student? When do you have time with all those toys..?


----------



## Blitz6804

Oh, and of course thlnk3r is invited too if you guys want to make a stop off at the Triangulum Galaxy M33 to get him. Its en route IIRC.

EDIT to address Joe's edit: And my friends wonder why I am weeks delinquent in my readings...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Oh, and of course thlnk3r is invited too if you guys want to make a stop off at the Triangulum Galaxy M33 to get him. Its en route IIRC.











Don't worry. I can find ol' thlnk3rbell easy.

(I'd better, what with some of my junk he's playing with.

Oh man... that sounded so unintentionally, um... nvm...)


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
ROFL

For DDR500, I'd rather have iandroo-made meals.









Not much of a clubber (maybe I can swing a billy club or a nightstick or any similar object as a weapon), but Vegas buffets...









Therein lies a problem: I don't remember things very well. I have, um, a very poor IMC in me head...









Sounds great, though!









My lord, man, you say you're a law student? When do you have time with all those toys..?









i could cook i guess. if the ddr 500 really is up for offer. lol. but buffets would be a highly considered idea =P.. all u can eat seafood buffet... think of all the alaskan king crab legs.... ****tail shrimps... clams.. oysters... mussels... and other stuff... and desserts!... rio and red rock has italian gelato! oOo.. rio has the best desserts at their seafood buffet in the city imo. very very rich and tasty..

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Oh, and of course thlnk3r is invited too if you guys want to make a stop off at the Triangulum Galaxy M33 to get him. Its en route IIRC.

rofl


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
i could cook i guess. if the ddr 500 really is up for offer. lol. but buffets would be a highly considered idea =P.. all u can eat seafood buffet... think of all the alaskan king crab legs.... ****tail shrimps... clams.. oysters... mussels... and other stuff... and desserts!... rio and red rock has italian gelato! oOo.. rio has the best desserts at their seafood buffet in the city imo. very very rich and tasty..

Mmm...

If I pay you in DDR500, that means you cook for me any time I'm visiting.

I wonder if we can get blitz to write us up a formal contract.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Mmm...

If I pay you in DDR500, that means you cook for me any time I'm visiting.

I wonder if we can get blitz to write us up a formal contract.









any time? psh. for DDR500.. thats like a meal or 2.. lol


----------



## Blitz6804

I am in fact in contract law this semester. In fact, I took my midterm this past Wednesday. DDR500 for unlimited food may be void for want of mutuality.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
any time? psh. for DDR500.. thats like a meal or 2.. lol

Awwww... I've got one or two sets in my spares box...










Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I am in fact in contract law this semester. In fact, I took my midterm this past Wednesday. DDR500 for unlimited food may be void for want of mutuality.

Oh really?

Well... I withdraw my interest in your services, then, good sir.


----------



## iandroo888

and i meant 2x1GB sets.. not 2x512mb sets.. LOL..


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, it also faces an indefinateness problem.

Like iandroo888 suggested, RAM for a finite number of meals would be valid.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
and i meant 2x1GB sets.. not 2x512mb sets.. LOL..

Oh, for sure, 2x 1GB sets. I don't have any 2x 512MB kits.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Well, it also faces an indefinateness problem.

Like iandroo888 suggested, RAM for a finite number of meals would be valid.

Technically, since I'm not really an immortal (despite what my current avatar might suggest), this would really constitute a finite number of meals. I won't live forever to avail myself of iandroo's culinary skills.

And he won't live forever, either.


----------



## iandroo888

its an even trade. if u go out.. its like 30-40 dollars a meal or so.. 2 meals = approx a set of 2x1gb ddr500.

if there was a trade for 2x1gb pair of ddr500 for infinite food.. *****.. id be the one giving it to u LOL

im asian. my legacy lives on! LOL

oh. wanna sell a pair for me? XD


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
its an even trade. if u go out.. its like 30-40 dollars a meal or so.. 2 meals = approx a set of 2x1gb ddr500.

if there was a trade for 2x1gb pair of ddr500 for infinite food.. *****.. id be the one giving it to u LOL

im asian. my legacy lives on! LOL

oh. wanna sell a pair for me? XD

Want to sell a pair..?

The proposal is under consideration...


----------



## Blitz6804

30-40 dollars a meal is for the both of you. So to be honest, you would need to buy him more than that!

Mushkin Redline DDR500 for example is $140 from Newegg after rebate. That is about... 8 meals.

NOTE: Consideration need not be equivalent, it just must be adequate and not merely nominal.

IN FACT: It can be simply a voluntary detriment to the receiving party if it is sought after and bargained for.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Want to sell a pair..?

The proposal is under consideration...

cool

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
30-40 dollars a meal is for the both of you. So to be honest, you would need to buy him more than that!

Mushkin Redline DDR500 for example is $140 from Newegg after rebate. That is about... 8 meals.

NOTE: Consideration need not be equivalent, it just must be adequate and not merely nominal.

IN FACT: It can be simply a voluntary detriment to the receiving party if it is sought after and bargained for.

not really. dinner last night for me was about.. 35. bill was about 180. lol


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
30-40 dollars a meal is for the both of you. So to be honest, you would need to buy him more than that!

*Mushkin Redline DDR500 for example is $140 from Newegg after rebate. That is about... 8 meals.*

NOTE: Consideration need not be equivalent, it just must be adequate and not merely nominal.

IN FACT: It can be simply a voluntary detriment to the receiving party if it is sought after and bargained for.

My lord... that's a great price for that RAM.









Much cheaper than what I got mine for.

Dang, I'm starving.

Gotta love "The Beatles." Wish I had my guitar so I can play along with "Dig A Pony."

Man, I'm all over the place right now.


----------



## Blitz6804

Dude, $35 a diner? You need to move out of Vegas...

Most of the places I frequented were like $10-15 a diner.

Granted, there were times when we would go to an expensive restaurant. Mongolian could set you back $25 a diner. Japanese $40 a diner. French? Eh, something to the effect of $150 a diner.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Dude, $35 a diner? You need to move out of Vegas...

Most of the places I frequented were like $10-15 a diner.

Granted, there were times when we would go to an expensive restaurant. Mongolian could set you back $25 a diner. Japanese $40 a diner. French? Eh, something to the effect of $150 a diner.

lets see.. korean.. 30 - 35 a person for all u can eat.. japanese.. 35 a person for all u can eat. french... yah $100 - 150 a person.. italian.. 25 - 30... chinese... 40 - 60 for about 3-5 people.. this japanese restaruant in MGM with kobe beef dinner.. 120 - 180 a person for a 3 course dinner.. haha buffets range from 13 - 40 a person.. depends where u go... bellagio and wynn are at i think 35.. red rock at 20.. rio seafood at 35...down to the cheaper smaller hotels like orleans at like 13...

most expensive dinner i remember having recently was about a party of 10 with the bill at approx 1500... or so.. lol


----------



## Mootsfox

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Well maybe you could still be added to the "S939 Nostalgics" section? And there's no reason to be sorry







. You moved onto the bigger / badder machine (I sooooo hate saying that), I don't blame ya. If I could afford it, my sig rig would probably be a C2D / C2Q. Not because I like Intel or anything, but because its currently the best out there







.

The point however is though....these 939 chips STILL TO THIS DAY will give a C2D (Core 2 Duo, NOT QUAD) a run for their money....and its what, 5-6 year old technology? Quite impressive, no







?

I'd still go with an Intel, unless I had DDR and a S939 (DDR being to real reason to stay away from S939







)

My first computer I built was that 3500+, and man it pwnt back then. Still kicks the snot from a P4









I'm an AMD fan at heart, but I just couldn't drop $400-500 in the Phenom's. I really badly want AMD to steal me back from Intel, I know they have it in them, they have done it before









But yeah, I'd say so far AMD's best and brightest was on the S939.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
lets see.. korean.. 30 - 35 a person for all u can eat.. japanese.. 35 a person for all u can eat. french... yah $100 - 150 a person.. italian.. 25 - 30... chinese... 40 - 60 for about 3-5 people.. this japanese restaruant in MGM with kobe beef dinner.. 120 - 180 a person for a 3 course dinner.. haha buffets range from 13 - 40 a person.. depends where u go... bellagio and wynn are at i think 35.. red rock at 20.. rio seafood at 35...down to the cheaper smaller hotels like orleans at like 13...

most expensive dinner i remember having recently was about a party of 10 with the bill at approx 1500... or so.. lol

Dude... I'm on an In 'N Out meal budget most of the time.

Speaking of Vegas meals, the Wynn has the most over-priced, overrated stuff I've tried so far. Glad I didn't pay when my cousin and her parents and I went there three years ago.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mootsfox* 
I'd still go with an Intel, unless I had DDR and a S939 (DDR being to real reason to stay away from S939







)

My first computer I built was that 3500+, and man it pwnt back then. Still kicks the snot from a P4









I'm an AMD fan at heart, but I just couldn't drop $400-500 in the Phenom's. I really badly want AMD to steal me back from Intel, I know they have it in them, they have done it before









But yeah, I'd say so far AMD's best and brightest was on the S939.

Moots, you still have any S939 rigs running?

I'd be very happy to add you to our roster, if you want me to.







If you don't have any CPU-Z validations of your S939, I'll add you as a S939 Nostalgic.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
its an even trade. if u go out.. its like 30-40 dollars a meal or so.. 2 meals = approx a set of 2x1gb ddr500.

if there was a trade for 2x1gb pair of ddr500 for infinite food.. *****.. id be the one giving it to u LOL

im asian. my legacy lives on! LOL

oh. wanna sell a pair for me? XD









"add oil"


----------



## boonie2

10 mins 29 sec to my opty 170


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
10 mins 29 sec to my opty 170

I will beseech the gods on your behalf, so that the fates might see you the proud owner of that Opteron 170.

Good luck.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 







"add oil"























haha

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Dude... I'm on an In 'N Out meal budget most of the time.

Speaking of Vegas meals, the Wynn has the most over-priced, overrated stuff I've tried so far. Glad I didn't pay when my cousin and her parents and I went there three years ago.

Moots, you still have any S939 rigs running?

I'd be very happy to add you to our roster, if you want me to.







If you don't have any CPU-Z validations of your S939, I'll add you as a S939 Nostalgic.









i havent had in n out in a long time... last time i had it was maybe 2 years ago.. when i was on an in n out craze and UNLV had an in n out next to it.. had it a lot.. also had a 16x16 split with a friend... talk about blood vessel clog. rofl..

to tell u the truth.. i have yet to try Wynn's buffet. heard mixed reviews on it from people who has.. i still think Bellagio still tops on the buffet list.. closest to it is Rio's seafood buffet (omg the oysters were so yummy.. i rarely eat oysters at buffet. max 1 - 2.. but man.. i went for it that time.. 10+.. SO FRESH!!) i usually go to Orlean's buffet. 13 bux for dinner.. yummy food.. crawfish (YUM!) great deal.

GL Boonie2 on winnin the auction!! (goes on ebay and bids a few sec b4 close)

*edit* OH MAH GOD. out of range for me.. o well. all urs =D


----------



## Blitz6804

I never have buffets anymore. Ever.

I prefer to have fast food over buffets. *Chuckles.*


----------



## txtmstrjoe

thlnk3r and I used to have lunch at In 'N Out, but it's always so crowded and loud. Hard to have geek talks when you have to yell half the time.

That reminds me. The man owes me lunch/dinner at Islands...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
And thlnk3r, I am curious. Can you get a decent 3DMark06 CPU score with that rig? Can it game at all?

Blitz, it's a dell poweredge 6950. I can't game on it









Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
That reminds me. The man owes me lunch/dinner at Islands...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I'm staaaaaaaaaaaarving.

I wonder if these Opteron chips are good for eating..?


----------



## iandroo888

did u win boonie2?

man i want a blade server lol. would fit perfectly between my two desks ahahaha

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I'm staaaaaaaaaaaarving.

I wonder if these Opteron chips are good for eating..?

didnt someone break a processor and a piece flew down their throat... or something


----------



## Blitz6804

I am thinking I am going to be having a simple meal tonight:

Grilled hamburgers on a toasted bun with mustard, ketchup, mayonnaise, relish, fresh-ground black pepper, cheddar cheese, and if I feel frisky, some nice crispy bacon.

Hungrier yet Joe?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I am thinking I am going to be having a simple meal tonight:

Grilled hamburgers on a toasted bun with mustard, ketchup, mayonnaise, relish, fresh-ground black pepper, cheddar cheese, and if I feel frisky, some nice crispy bacon.

Hungrier yet Joe?

I hate you.










Actually, I wish I had some burgers to grill here. Homemade burgers FTW!


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, if you were home making them (id est, hand-formed patties) you should make them 'squeelers' (id est, have chopped up bacon in the patties).


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Well, if you were home making them (id est, hand-formed patties) you should make them 'squeelers' (id est, have chopped up bacon in the patties).


OMG

So evil...


----------



## StormX2

evil peopel with there nice new Intel machines lol

and man i hate my ram


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


did u win boonie2?

man i want a blade server lol. would fit perfectly between my two desks ahahaha

didnt someone break a processor and a piece flew down their throat... or something
























THE OPTY IS OURS





















: funeral services for my beloved 4000+ will be held in 3-5 business days


----------



## Blitz6804

Funeral service? Sell her!

I am sure there is someone who would love to give her a new home. Joe maybe? If she is topless, I am sure Pioneer cannot resist!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *StormX2*


evil peopel with there nice new Intel machines lol

and man i hate my ram


What's wrong with your RAM?

Hehe, always loved that avatar. Rumble with Blaster! KLASSIK!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*























THE OPTY IS OURS





















: funeral services for my beloved 4000+ will be held in 3-5 business days










Yay!

How much was the final winning bid?

I'd hang on to that golden 4000+.







Sounds like a winner.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I will beseech the gods on your behalf, so that the fates might see you the proud owner of that Opteron 170.

Good luck.










thanx, i think the "beseeching" may have been the kicker


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


thanx, i think the "beseeching" may have been the kicker


Mega.

I will now offer effigies of blitz and iandroo as a sacrifice, to show my gratitude to the gods.

BRB


----------



## boonie2

final price was $106.11 , i think sandy will be going into karens computer .. id be willing to donate her awsome sempron [smiles] ... just noticed its the same chip as txtmstrjoes


----------



## iandroo888

hey. dont sacrifice me! sacrifice blitz only. hes expendable.

gratz on winning the opty, boonie2









mmm homemade burgers.. last time i made burgers.. use 100% sirloin... bacon.. portabello mushrooms.. chedder and pepperjack cheese. peppercini *spell check*.. jalepenos *spell check also* onions. lettuce... tomato.. SUPER yummy.. oh.. with a side blended drink of a strawberry daiquiri/pina colada =D


----------



## Blitz6804

There are cases when you can over dress a burger.

You want pure? American cheese, mayo, and ground black pepper. Thats it!

You want crazy? Get a Julie's burger: sautÃ©ed onions, fried onions, chili, bacon, lettuce, tomato, catchup, mayo, cheddar, and mozzarella.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


final price was $106.11 , i think sandy will be going into karens computer .. id be willing to donate her awsome sempron [smiles] ... just noticed its the same chip as txtmstrjoes


I think you'll be happy with an LCB9E 0704; I've played with maybe four or five of these, and all except for one hit at least 2.7GHz, with most of them running 2.8GHz stable at or near stock VCore.

I only hit a 3-pointer with one, and it was far from stable. Hope you get one that can run 3GHz with stability!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


hey. dont sacrifice me! sacrifice blitz only. hes expendable.

gratz on winning the opty, boonie2









mmm homemade burgers.. last time i made burgers.. use 100% sirloin... bacon.. portabello mushrooms.. chedder and pepperjack cheese. peppercini *spell check*.. jalepenos *spell check also* onions. lettuce... tomato.. SUPER yummy.. oh.. with a side blended drink of a strawberry daiquiri/pina colada =D


I now hate you too. Those burgers must be awesome...

iandroo, I dub thee "Gourmet."

(My sisters learned Mandarin; do you speak either Mandarin or Cantonese? I do neither. Just wondering. LOL)

blitz, I dub him "Counselor."

And I burned you and blitz only in effigy. The gods were most pleased.

blitz, that Julie's burger sounds GREAT. Is that a chain in NY?

By the way, Julie's burger makes me think of something else... nvm...










Man! I'm gonna go eat in a few minutes. Stupid room that doesn't clean itself!


----------



## Blitz6804

It is indeed. "J&R's Steakhouse." Located in Stony Brook, Rocky Point, Calverton, and Medford. All of those are on Long Island for the record.

You will be interested to know that they also have a 76-ounce steak challenge: Order a 76-ounce steak and finish it in 1 hour, and you pay nothing for it. Nada. Not a darn thing. Losers pay $60.

http://www.jandrssteakhouse.com/

Note, I had a Julie Burger lately. It was not anywhere near as good as it used to be. Less stuff, cooked poorly.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


It is indeed. "J&R's Steakhouse." Located in Stony Brook, Rocky Point, Calverton, and Medford. All of those are on Long Island for the record.

You will be interested to know that they also have a 76-ounce steak challenge: Order a 76-ounce steak and finish it in 1 hour, and you pay nothing for it. Nada. Not a darn thing. Losers pay $60.

http://www.jandrssteakhouse.com/












I wonder if that Simpsons episode where Homer and trucker Red Barclay both tried to eat these gigantic steaks, and Red died, was based on J&R's Steakhouse.

I wish it was my birthday already. My parents take me to dinner in a steak house on my birthday.


----------



## GuardianOdin

jump'in jolly rogers! I don't check the thread for a DAY and things turn weird. People cooking dinners...immortals running around...DDR.....the insanity!









Thou I am amused


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, DDR is too much activity. The jumping, the laughing, the pants falling off, the shocked faces...

Yeah, I hate that game.


----------



## StormX2

Yah my avatar is deffinitely top notch, if only i had hgiher quality, but dont think i can get

well my ram the highest it gets to is 450mhz and then crash city =(


----------



## Blitz6804

I have a question:

If you have UV-reactive cables, what is the best way to make them light up?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I have a question:

If you have UV-reactive cables, what is the best way to make them light up?


You need a UV light source, such as a CCFL (Cold Cathode Fluorescent Lamp).


----------



## Blitz6804

How do I know what is a good one and what is a bad one?

http://store.cwc-group.com/cocafl12cali1.html

I was eyeballing that simply for its price. Is that too low to be decent? Does anyone have a brand I absolutely must purchase?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


How do I know what is a good one and what is a bad one?

http://store.cwc-group.com/cocafl12cali1.html

I was eyeballing that simply for its price. Is that too low to be decent? Does anyone have a brand I absolutely must purchase?


Me not know. I've never messed around with CCFLs. LED fans are about the most bling I'd put on my rigs.

Oddly enough, I've never had a customer want CCFLs either...

Hopefully someone here can give you great information, Counselor.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, iandroo888 linked me on AIM:

http://jab-tech.com/LOGISYS-12-DUAL-...T-pr-2505.html

The question is, do I think my power supply can take it? If I put one more thing in there, she might quit on me!

While I am at it, I also have to try fixing some of the wires. Iandroo888 and Repo_Man both claim my wiring is atrocious. Any helpful hints on how to fix it? I never thought it too bad.

And also:

DUDE! $8.00 shipping on a $6.00 product!? Anyone have some blue or white ones they would like to sell me?


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I think you'll be happy with an LCB9E 0704; I've played with maybe four or five of these, and all except for one hit at least 2.7GHz, with most of them running 2.8GHz stable at or near stock VCore.

I only hit a 3-pointer with one, and it was far from stable. Hope you get one that can run 3GHz with stability!









I now hate you too. Those burgers must be awesome...

iandroo, I dub thee "Gourmet."

(My sisters learned Mandarin; do you speak either Mandarin or Cantonese? I do neither. Just wondering. LOL)

blitz, I dub him "Counselor."

And I burned you and blitz only in effigy. The gods were most pleased.

blitz, that Julie's burger sounds GREAT. Is that a chain in NY?

By the way, Julie's burger makes me think of something else... nvm...










Man! I'm gonna go eat in a few minutes. Stupid room that doesn't clean itself!


sweet Gourmet Androo







should give us the titles on front page hehe =D

i speak cantonese fluently. learning mandarin. 2nd semester so far. doin pretty well.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


It is indeed. "J&R's Steakhouse." Located in Stony Brook, Rocky Point, Calverton, and Medford. All of those are on Long Island for the record.

You will be interested to know that they also have a 76-ounce steak challenge: Order a 76-ounce steak and finish it in 1 hour, and you pay nothing for it. Nada. Not a darn thing. Losers pay $60.

http://www.jandrssteakhouse.com/

Note, I had a Julie Burger lately. It was not anywhere near as good as it used to be. Less stuff, cooked poorly.


DOOD THAT SOUNDS SWEET! but thats impossible. i barely finished a 24 ounce a few years ago.. i eat much less now.. so i cant do it









Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*











I wonder if that Simpsons episode where Homer and trucker Red Barclay both tried to eat these gigantic steaks, and Red died, was based on J&R's Steakhouse.

I wish it was my birthday already. My parents take me to dinner in a steak house on my birthday.










i go sushi on birthday. i love sushi









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Yeah, DDR is too much activity. The jumping, the laughing, the pants falling off, the shocked faces...

Yeah, I hate that game.


sweet! ddr! i suck but its fun!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


jump'in jolly rogers! I don't check the thread for a DAY and things turn weird. People cooking dinners...immortals running around...DDR.....the insanity!









Thou I am amused










rofl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *StormX2*


Yah my avatar is deffinitely top notch, if only i had hgiher quality, but dont think i can get

well my ram the highest it gets to is 450mhz and then crash city =(


we all wish we had higher quality stuff.. i wish i had ddr500







lol

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I have a question:

If you have UV-reactive cables, what is the best way to make them light up?


UV Cold cathodes. go on jab-tech or something. pretty cheap. for where to put them in your case... hide then.. not be seen thru window (i so dont follow that...) and make it pretty when its on haha

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


You need a UV light source, such as a CCFL (Cold Cathode Fluorescent Lamp).


oh txtmstrjoe answered already lol

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


How do I know what is a good one and what is a bad one?

http://store.cwc-group.com/cocafl12cali1.html

I was eyeballing that simply for its price. Is that too low to be decent? Does anyone have a brand I absolutely must purchase?


JAB-TECH! or try petrastechshop.. xoxide or svc.. good online stores for stuff like this.. just get whatever works.. if ur going UV, i dont think theres a difference.. but if u were going for a colored cathode.. maybe difference in shade of color.. the ones i have were cheap .. so its off to the pinkish side.. lol

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Me not know. I've never messed around with CCFLs. LED fans are about the most bling I'd put on my rigs.

Oddly enough, I've never had a customer want CCFLs either...

Hopefully someone here can give you great information, Counselor.










done rofl


----------



## Blitz6804

I just ordered a pair from Newegg, saved myself $3!

Now, if only I can get them installed and my wires cleaned up in time for the case comp lol.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Best tip for cable management: Look at somebody else's work. There are some real artists at this cable management thing. You don't even need to find someone with the exact same case and component combo as you.

Another tip: Get lots and lots of zip ties. I have these in a couple of sizes. Bigger ones are good for power supply cables; smaller zip ties are good for smaller stuff like fan cables.

pioneerisloud commented on my cable management not too long ago. He's got a good eye, so you could perhaps seek his advice.









I go for a certain look with mine. I've found that I've developed a certain style for it. Something akin to an Italian car's engine, I think.









Okay! Back to the Laker game!


----------



## Xyro TR1

So yeah, my board continues to FAIL. As I was typing this message originally, it just randomly restarted. I don't know WHAT'S going on, but it's even back at stock speeds and I'm still having issues... My NIC card loses the connection (but throws no errors) after about an hour if I'm OC'd... And there's no heat issue...

I might have to make a thread about this....

(I like using "...")


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1* 
So yeah, my board continues to FAIL. As I was typing this message originally, it just randomly restarted. I don't know WHAT'S going on, but it's even back at stock speeds and I'm still having issues... My NIC card loses the connection (but throws no errors) after about an hour if I'm OC'd... And there's no heat issue...

I might have to make a thread about this....

(I like using "...")

Let's try a process of elimination.

Have you tried testing your RAM's health?

Check the first post on this thread and use MemTest86+.

Keep us informed, Xyro!


----------



## Blitz6804

I am on AIM with Xyro TR1 now. He did not yet have the AMD Processor Driver. He now has it and the /usepmtimer boot.ini tag.

He is about to try to beat the stuffing out of it to test stability.


----------



## froggy1986

Blitz, as for you wiring, if your using zipties, there are some things, I can't seem to find the package for the exct name, but on one side its got sticky tape, and on the other its got an opening to hold a ziptie to the case, they come in handy when tucking wires inside drive bays. Also, if you are comfortable taking off the molex connecters, since you are going UV one of these ziptie and kits may be of some help for the wires that will be seen no matter what. Also, when working with the wire management, try to run as many wires under you board and/or mobo tray, as you possibly can. Just remember, you DON'T see behind the mobo tray, which makes it much easier. Also, try to tuck and tie, as many wires as you can between the back side and the drive bays, again usually these can't be seen. That is another time that the zip ties and those other sticky zipties holder things come in handy. Another good tip is to try and keep the wires ran as straight as possible, and somewhat tight. If you need help anymore ask pioneer or myself and I'm sure one of us can assist you. Hope that helps.


----------



## Blitz6804

I have an old-school case: no MoBo tray. Thanks for the advice and the link though Froggy. I already have about 75% of the wires tucked into drive bays; imagine what the case used to look like when I first started overclocking!


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I have an old-school case: no MoBo tray. Thanks for the advice and the link though Froggy. I already have about 75% of the wires tucked into drive bays; imagine what the case used to look like when I first started overclocking!










@imagining... Like txtmstrjoe and I both said, zipties do wonders. Pioneer is at work right now, should be home soon though. I'm sure he will have some more tips for ya.

As for the lack of mobo tray, those spacers under the mobo, they help out alot when trying to hide the little wires. I also found these if your willing to spend a little extra for even more pretties.They would work great if you are planning on doing a sleeving kit, since you will need the molex and things off anyways.

Oh yeah, and for better air flow, I would suggest tucking as many wires as you can on the side of the drive bays rather than in them, for one they r less visable and two, well there will be less things in the way blocking the heat from escaping. You may also want to looking into modding some of the bays, I simply used a pair of pliers to bend some of the holes in the bays to fit a connecter through it. That way you can hide even more of the wires, by just pulling the molex through, and running it up to the drive.


----------



## Mootsfox

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Moots, you still have any S939 rigs running?

I'd be very happy to add you to our roster, if you want me to.







If you don't have any CPU-Z validations of your S939, I'll add you as a S939 Nostalgic.










I don't have any AMD rigs running atm









I'd love to be on the Nostalgic list though, thanks


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mootsfox*


I don't have any AMD rigs running atm









I'd love to be on the Nostalgic list though, thanks










Done.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


How do I know what is a good one and what is a bad one?

http://store.cwc-group.com/cocafl12cali1.html

I was eyeballing that simply for its price. Is that too low to be decent? Does anyone have a brand I absolutely must purchase?


I've had those exact brand of cathodes. They sell them at my favorite local PC shop for $12 each (not too bad for a local price). I also use Logisys, they are good for cathodes as well (and relatively cheap).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *froggy1986*


Blitz, as for you wiring, if your using zipties, there are some things, I can't seem to find the package for the exct name, but on one side its got sticky tape, and on the other its got an opening to hold a ziptie to the case, they come in handy when tucking wires inside drive bays. Also, if you are comfortable taking off the molex connecters, since you are going UV one of these ziptie and kits may be of some help for the wires that will be seen no matter what. Also, when working with the wire management, try to run as many wires under you board and/or mobo tray, as you possibly can. Just remember, you DON'T see behind the mobo tray, which makes it much easier. Also, try to tuck and tie, as many wires as you can between the back side and the drive bays, again usually these can't be seen. That is another time that the zip ties and those other sticky zipties holder things come in handy. Another good tip is to try and keep the wires ran as straight as possible, and somewhat tight. If you need help anymore ask pioneer or myself and I'm sure one of us can assist you. Hope that helps.










GOOD JOB! I'd + rep you for that...but I'd get in trouble since we have the same IP







.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mootsfox*


I don't have any AMD rigs running atm









I'd love to be on the Nostalgic list though, thanks


















. Glad to at least have you on the Nostalgic list at least!

About the food:
Well I just brought home two "Paul Bunyon" burgers for dinner







. They are made up of two 1/3 pound, square (rectangular actually), top end hamburger meat patties, sprinkled with our own "Special Seasoning". They feature our own "Special Suace" made by yours truly. Topped with everything on it (lettuce, tomato, pickles, onions). Then on TOP of all that good stuff....they have a slice of "Paul Ham" on the bottom patty, and 2 strips of Hickory smoked bacon (cooked fresh for the meal by yours truly as well) on the top patty. Now what about cheese? Oh, well its got a slice of Swiss on the bottom section of meat, and a slice of American on the top section of meat (section being the hamburger and pork combined). I build the burger like that, so the cheese holds it all together







. These are the best burgers in town, period! We have a local "Major's" and "Miner's" that compete with us (don't know if those are franchises or just local). However for only $6 for a burger, and $1.50 to combo it with fries and a drink on top of that...these are the best valued, best tasting burgers you can find in town!

*AND I ALSO HAS A QUESTION!!!*
Now I'm contemplating an upgrade here. I'm getting my new 8800GTS on Tuesday (placing the order on newegg), however I also have to buy a DVD Burner (already picked out), 2 new 36" SATA cables, and here's my problem. I was GOING to buy a new Seagate 7200.11 320GB hard drive. However if my hard drive's problem is just the cable, I'd feel stupid! So I'm trying to decide if I want the hard drive, or a Logitech Momo racing wheel / pedal set. If any of you are racing sim fans...maybe you could help me out here? Hard drive, or racing wheel? And I absolutely LOVE my racing games, but the keyboard just doesn't cut it. I can't control the car too well with a keyboard







. Any thoughts?


----------



## Mootsfox

Joe if you can wait a couple days, I've got two 36" blue UV SATA cables that you can have for the shipping cost.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mootsfox*


Joe if you can wait a couple days, I've got two 36" blue UV SATA cables that you can have for the shipping cost.


I didn't realize Joe was looking for cables?

If that post was meant for me, I may be interested







. I'll probably still buy new ones as well, just to be on the safe side. Last time I bought a cable, it died (don't know why), so I'd rather be overstocked on them, than have one die and be screwed. I just don't know if its the HD or cable! Lol.


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


About the food:
Well I just brought home two "Paul Bunyon" burgers for dinner







. They are made up of two 1/3 pound, square (rectangular actually), top end hamburger meat patties, sprinkled with our own "Special Seasoning". They feature our own "Special Suace" made by yours truly. Topped with everything on it (lettuce, tomato, pickles, onions). Then on TOP of all that good stuff....they have a slice of "Paul Ham" on the bottom patty, and 2 strips of Hickory smoked bacon (cooked fresh for the meal by yours truly as well) on the top patty. Now what about cheese? Oh, well its got a slice of Swiss on the bottom section of meat, and a slice of American on the top section of meat (section being the hamburger and pork combined). I build the burger like that, so the cheese holds it all together







. These are the best burgers in town, period! We have a local "Major's" and "Miner's" that compete with us (don't know if those are franchises or just local). However for only $6 for a burger, and $1.50 to combo it with fries and a drink on top of that...these are the best valued, best tasting burgers you can find in town!


I wanna second that... No other place in town compares to their burgers, as for the fries on the other hand, I gotta admit, Major's Spuds McVayes(sp?) are always gonna be the best.


----------



## Xyro TR1

So my system was unstable on account of me effing up something in RAM timings. But, now that I can OC, should I be worried about 63C load temps at 2.7Ghz?

EDIT: FAIL for some reason I set my VCORE to 1.400V, and it peaks at 1.58V...... Bad, yes?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mootsfox*


Joe if you can wait a couple days, I've got two 36" blue UV SATA cables that you can have for the shipping cost.


Most generous, Moots, but I believe pioneer has need for SATA cables.







I'll let him get you on the horn and you can hash the details out.

(And thanks for your generosity.)









Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I didn't realize Joe was looking for cables?

If that post was meant for me, I may be interested







. I'll probably still buy new ones as well, just to be on the safe side. Last time I bought a cable, it died (don't know why), so I'd rather be overstocked on them, than have one die and be screwed. I just don't know if its the HD or cable! Lol.


Yeah, it's a good idea to always have spares, whatever it is.

To find out what the problem is, well, obviously it's cheaper to switch cables. I'd start there. If the problems persist, then suspect the HDD.

As far as the Logitech Momo wheel + pedal set is concerned, it's absolutely brilliant.

I've Copied & Pasted my review of this item from Amazon onto this post (sorry to those who may not have been interested):
*
Flexible, functional, FUN peripheral that's the best in its class*, _August 27, 2006_
_
Any true race driving afficionado will tell you that it's all about feel. Driving, RACING, is all about feel. In the realm of racing cars on a computer, the more realistic the tactile aspect of the experience is, the more you enjoy the simulation.

Logitech's MOMO Force Feedback Racing Wheel and Pedal set is, by far, the best user interface peripheral I've ever used. I've owned older examples of Thrustmasters; I've sampled several of Microsoft's and Saitek's wheel and pedal sets; I even have a Logitech WingMan Formula Force GP wheel and pedal set that I'm giving away to a good friend. None of the other devices have made racing on my computer as enjoyable as Logitech's top-of-the-line MOMO set.

The wheel's rim is thick and grippy, just like a real-world racing steering wheel should be. The rubber rim enables the driver to maintain his grip as he sweats through dozens of laps around a typical Formula 1 race course. Moreover, the wheel is home to six fully-programmable buttons, as well as two paddle shifters.

If you prefer your gearchanges to be done via a more conventional gear stick, you can configure your wheel and pedal set accordingly. The shifter goes forwards and backwards; you can select up or down shifts according your preference. And, if you want to simulate right-hand steering cars (as in Japan and the UK), you can even switch the location of the gear stick to the left! I can't think of another wheel and pedal set that has that particular feature.

The wheel's force feedback function is quite fun. A driver must feel how his car is going through corners, and frequently this information comes from a combination of gravity's effects and his car's feedback. In computer sims, though, you cannot simulate gravity, so the car must somehow talk to you. The MOMO wheel communicates whether or not the car is understeering or oversteering around the corners through the strength of the force feeding back through to your hands. You can also feel bumps on the surface, as well as slippery patches on the track. Pretty impressive, really, for a peripheral.

The brake and throttle pedals are a good size. There is no clutch, unfortunately. The pedals pivot on the bottom, but you never really notice the difference compared to a top-pivoting pedal configuration (like most cars I know of have). The pedals' sensitivity range seems predictable, meaning, you can instinctively feel the correct amounts of throttle and brake when you apply them. The pedal base is also a good size and is at a good angle, meaning you won't have numb feet/legs after a two-hour race.

The only significant cons I can think of include the pedal placement being awkward for heel-and-toe gear changes and a slightly cheap feel to the paddle shifters. Heel-and-toe downshifts are a moot point anyway, given that there's no clutch pedal, but I suppose this pedal set is perfectly spaced for karting-style two-pedal racing. If you're practiced in left-foot braking (and if your game supports simultaneous pedal function), then this is no problem. As far as the paddle shifters are concerned, though, more brutal users might break the lightweight plastic paddles with super-aggressive gear changes. A light touch, though, is all you need (aside from good timing) for optimum performance.

If you want the best racing sim peripheral out there, this is definitely the one to get._

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*


So my system was unstable on account of me effing up something in RAM timings. But, now that I can OC, should I be worried about 63C load temps at 2.7Ghz?

EDIT: FAIL for some reason I set my VCORE to 1.400V, and it peaks at 1.58V...... Bad, yes?


Xyro, the VCore setting on Asus' boards is a little strange. Do you have "Overvolt Enabled" for the CPU Voltage? If you do, then the board adds .2V to whatever figure you set in the VCore field.

For example, if you set it to 1.4V, it'll put out 1.6V (or thereabouts) if you have "VCore Overvolt" enabled. To get the desired VCore level that you want, you want to subtract .2V from what you want and set that. Say you want 1.45V, you set the VCore to 1.25V so that it puts out the correct voltage.

Hope this helps!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*


So my system was unstable on account of me effing up something in RAM timings. But, now that I can OC, should I be worried about 63C load temps at 2.7Ghz?

EDIT: FAIL for some reason I set my VCORE to 1.400V, and it peaks at 1.58V...... Bad, yes?


Bad no. You should be just fine UP TO 65*C. If you go higher, well that's your processor, not ours. My X2 has hit 85*C under Orthos load for over 25 hours...so the temps don't hurt these chips too badly. *I wouldn't suggest past 65*, but it'll most likely live







.

So let me get this right, you set your vcore to 1.40v, and its actually at 1.58v? Maybe turn off overvolting (if its on)? Or turn the vcore down a notch or two. TRY to keep it below 1.50v on air







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Xyro, please see my previous post for the edit (although pioneer's advice is exactly like mine).


----------



## Xyro TR1

Overvolt is off, but I'll try to crank it down from 1.4V now.

I've also turned on the A/C. That may help. =)


----------



## Xyro TR1

Okay, ****'s still unstable. It seems I might be overclocking the PCI bus at the same time, but I have no way to confirm that. But my NIC keeps cutting out when OC'd, and every time I open Winamp, it restarts...

Thoughts?

(PS: I can only find "PCIE" clocking in my BIOS, and it's set to 100 which is stock)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*


Okay, ****'s still unstable. It seems I might be overclocking the PCI bus at the same time, but I have no way to confirm that. But my NIC keeps cutting out when OC'd, and every time I open Winamp, it restarts...

Thoughts?

(PS: I can only find "PCIE" clocking in my BIOS, and it's set to 100 which is stock)


Xyro, if your PCI-E bus is set to manual at 100 then it is locked. If it was on Auto then I would say otherwise. What overclock are you stable at? Can you post up CPU-Z screenshots of each tab for us?

Good luck


----------



## iandroo888

side question. what PCI-E bux should it be set at? i dont remember who but someone told me to set mine at 107. is that right? lol..

also. picked up the rocketfish, lian li rebadged case from best buy today. 48.48 OTD haha =D (with use of 10% of course) otherwise woulda been 49.99 + tax.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


side question. what PCI-E bux should it be set at? i dont remember who but someone told me to set mine at 107. is that right? lol..

also. picked up the rocketfish, lian li rebadged case from best buy today. 48.48 OTD haha =D (with use of 10% of course) otherwise woulda been 49.99 + tax.


Iandroo, it's been said that changing your PCI-E bus to a higher frequency can help with a more "stable" OC but I have yet to see a difference in regards to that.

Good job on finding that case for the discounted price


----------



## iandroo888

lol my friend was just near the area yesterday and i made his lazy butt to go check it out. the one by my house was still at 71.99 (altho still discounted but not where we wanted it at).

hope the case is good. never used rocketfish/lian li cases before!

*edit*

i think i might just end up modding it right off the bat.. taking off the door (i dont like doors. blocks airflow)


----------



## Mootsfox

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I didn't realize Joe was looking for cables?

If that post was meant for me, I may be interested







. I'll probably still buy new ones as well, just to be on the safe side. Last time I bought a cable, it died (don't know why), so I'd rather be overstocked on them, than have one die and be screwed. I just don't know if its the HD or cable! Lol.


I thought Joe was asking for them... I read wrong I guess.

Pioneer, PM me if you those SATA cables. I also have a lot of 18" cables...


----------



## reptilematt

Hi guys,

Is anyone familiar with the Venice 3200+ 
LBBLE 0543WPMW... 
Can these clock to 2.7?


----------



## iandroo888

anyone have 8" sata? been tryin to find those


----------



## Blitz6804

I do not, but Froogle found a place selling them for 77Â¢ a piece:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

I would estimate shipping at around $2.


----------



## Xyro TR1

No OC is stable at this point. I'm going to try a BIOS flash and get back to ya'll.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


i think i might just end up modding it right off the bat.. taking off the door (i dont like doors. blocks airflow)


Iandroo, actually taking off the case door (side door) will kill your case airflow. I'd recommend keeping it on for maximum airflow.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*


No OC is stable at this point. I'm going to try a BIOS flash and get back to ya'll.


I wish you the best of luck. BIOS flashing can prove to be fatal. (>_<)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *reptilematt*


Hi guys,

Is anyone familiar with the Venice 3200+ 
LBBLE 0543WPMW... 
Can these clock to 2.7?


I've never had a Venice.

Hopefully someone here has experience with a Venice with that stepping.


----------



## Blitz6804

If HWBot is to be believed, a Skt939 Venice averages 2.6 GHz whereas a Skt754 Venice averages 2.8 GHz. I personally not had any experience with one.


----------



## Daemonix

Hey all! Just dropping by and saying hello to those of you with the 939's.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I wish you the best of luck. BIOS flashing can prove to be fatal. (>_<)

I would know..







My P4G8X-X (POS) was a victim.

My BIOS, I've come to find out, is two years old. Everest says "UPDATE!" Backup plan is to buy one of the A8R32's on Ebay.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Iandroo, actually taking off the case door (side door) will kill your case airflow. I'd recommend keeping it on for maximum airflow.

Good luck


no no. not the side door. the front door. the one that covers the front drive bays.. not the side panel. i never take that off (unless im working on it)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*


I would know..







My P4G8X-X (POS) was a victim.

My BIOS, I've come to find out, is two years old. Everest says "UPDATE!" Backup plan is to buy one of the A8R32's on Ebay.


yesh a8r32-mvp or a8n32-sli FTW haha (i have both







)

yeah im planning to get the sata cables from monoprice. heading to l.a. sometime next month. so will stop by rancho cucamonga and pick em up (save on shipping hehe)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Daemonix is our newest member! Welcome to you!

Xyro, just as a word of general advice: Everest's message for you to update is a very gentle reminder. In other words, it's not an imperative. You don't have to flash your BIOS.

I have a feeling the root of the problem is that one (or more) of your subsystems is running over its limit. My first suspect is the RAM. I know you mentioned you ran MemTest86+, but as I recall you said it only completed two passes? That's far too short a testing period to be definitive. As RAM heats up, its tendency to register errors also increases, so it's advised to run MemTest86+ for around 8 hours for a fairly comprehensive, conclusive test.


----------



## thlnk3r

Welcome Daemonix to the 939 thread


----------



## Blitz6804

He has BIOS 0503, the last Omega release.

BIOS 0602 is a Beta release.

He swears it is the board, I think it may be the CPU. The only thing he changed in the HOSS was the PSU and the CPU. The old CPU worked fine with the new PSU.


----------



## Daemonix

I appreciate the warm welcome, and would like to thank you guys for all the collective knowledge here. Immediately, I led myself to the self-help posts about overclocking and seem to have some pretty good success.

Up until today, I've not really sat down and worked out what my computer can really do. I'm still tweaking with it as we speak and seem to have it sitting at 3014mhz by 200X15.0. Here's hoping the Prime95 runs well enough.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


He has BIOS 0503, the last Omega release.

BIOS 0602 is a Beta release.

He swears it is the board, I think it may be the CPU. The only thing he changed in the HOSS was the PSU and the CPU. The old CPU worked fine with the new PSU.


Well... a CPU that's being forced to run far over its own limits will exhibit weird behavior. Especially with IMCs...

I must meditate on this a bit...









EDIT:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Daemonix*


I appreciate the warm welcome, and would like to thank you guys for all the collective knowledge here. Immediately, I led myself to the self-help posts about overclocking and seem to have some pretty good success.

Up until today, I've not really sat down and worked out what my computer can really do. I'm still tweaking with it as we speak and seem to have it sitting at 3014mhz by 200X15.0. Here's hoping the Prime95 runs well enough.










Daemonix, you're at 3.0GHz and you're "still tweaking"?







That's amazing!


----------



## Blitz6804

If it is anything other than stock he has his issue.

When it happens, it will persist until clearing the CMOS even if he resets what he changed.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


If it is anything other than stock he has his issue.

When it happens, it will persist until clearing the CMOS even if he resets what he changed.


Yeesh.

I forget: Did Xyro buy this chip used or new? This is the most stubborn chip I've ever heard of!


----------



## Blitz6804

Unless I am mistaken, PIB from Newegg.


----------



## Daemonix

Yep, I'm at 3015, but Prime has an some sort of error, and refers me to a generic stress.txt file. The memory was tested at this setup by Memtest, and had no issues, nor is it being pushed more than the rated speed of 400mhz. I kicked up the voltage to 1.475 on the cpu to see if that was the issue. Also I upped the chipset and LDT as well. Lets see what happens...


----------



## Xyro TR1

Yeah, I have no idea what's going on. The RAM SHOULD be okay. It's not cheap RAM, it's OCZ Platinum. I am tempted to RMA this proc, and yank a A8R32 off the 'Bay.


----------



## Daemonix

Well, Prime ran this time, but it seems I've reached the peak overclock for the fx-57 for my setup. 3014 mhz with the fan at full, it barely keeps the temps at 55c under load. May be best for me to tune it down a little so it doesnt sound like a helicopter landing in my front room if I want to put any sort of load on the cpu.


----------



## Blitz6804

Maybe you can get your hands on a slightly more powerful CPU cooler? Google Shopping usually can find a couple of Thermalright Ultra Extremes ["TRUEs"] if you look hard enough.

In any event, congratulations on the 3 GHz club!


----------



## Daemonix

I was actually thinking of going to watercooled because the pumps and radiator, etc. can be used in conjunction with ever changing cpu and gpu blocks. Maybe a little bit more of an investment will prevent me from having the loud noise, and the ability to OC further.

In other news, I pushed the fx57 to 3150mhz, but it didn't care for prime too much. More voltage needed, but unfortunately, I'm not going to be pushing the volts up any further at the moment.









I do like the looks of the TRUEs though. Very big!


----------



## Blitz6804

Get yourself a screen cap of at least two hours prime stable in excess of 3 GHz. Pop it in your sig. Enjoy the adoration of your colleagues.


----------



## billbartuska

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Daemonix*


Well, Prime ran this time, but it seems I've reached the peak overclock for the fx-57 for my setup. 3014 mhz


FX57's top out between 3,1 and 3,2 with the occasional chip going to 3.3 (just max speed, not stable) You're limited by your Vcore. I had mine to 3150 @ 1.54v, on water though not Orthos stable. 3100 was pretty stable. 3075 @ 1.5v rock solid. So, I'd agree, you're pretty much there. WR (CPU-Z) is 4.2081ghz on a phase cascade.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Note for those who have been following:

RAM is dead. Sent an email to OCZ. Cross your fingers I don't have to go searching for RAM like this...


----------



## Blitz6804

Instead of guessing and checking as I have, I have found the database!

http://products.amd.com/en-us/

If you have an Socket 939 Athlon 64 or X2 processor, type the model number into the search bar and click the appropriate stepping. It will tell you max recommended voltage, max safe temps, et cetera. (Note, this also works with Second and Third-generation Opterons as well as Socket 754 and AM2 Athlons.)

If you have a First-generation Opteron, you will find your information here:

http://products.amd.com/en-us/downlo...nce_101607.pdf


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*


Note for those who have been following:

RAM is dead. Sent an email to OCZ. Cross your fingers I don't have to go searching for RAM like this...


Hope you get a good set back.

A note: I'm so not surprised it was the RAM all along... It is often my number one suspect when it comes to cases like yours.

Good luck, Xyro!


----------



## Xyro TR1

I hope they treat me right.

Side note. Running Orthos I get "sprikes" in my FSB... I've watched my core speed hit 2.87Ghz while it's set to 2.60Ghz. Should I be concerned?

Small Spike


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*


I hope they treat me right.

Side note. Running Orthos I get "sprikes" in my FSB... I've watched my core speed hit 2.87Ghz while it's set to 2.60Ghz. Should I be concerned?


How is that even possible?

Are you OCed with Cool 'n Quiet on?

I've personally never seen that happen before... ever.


----------



## Xyro TR1

I've NEVER seen it happen before either. No CnQ, either. It's freakin' me out.

I guess it's time for a new board.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, I asked him about that. CnQ is turned off. My board always 'fluttered,' but never that bad. I am going to guess that either the RAM was on its way out and damaged the board, or vice versa. Either way, at least we know his CPU was fine.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*


I've NEVER seen it happen before either. No CnQ, either. It's freakin' me out.

I guess it's time for a new board.


If you enter the Club-exclusive Case Management Contest, you might win one of the best-ever S939 motherboards ever, courtesy of an anonymous member of our club.

To Daemonix and our newest members: Just in case you don't know, the Socket 939 Appreciation Club is running a club-exclusive Case Management Contest. Obviously, it's for Club members only, so I highly encourage you to take those photos and post them up on the thread.

We are entering the homestretch of the contest; we have less than two weeks to go before the contest is over, so to have a shot of winning, you've got to take your shots!


----------



## Xyro TR1

Indeed. Mine has always fluttered now that I think about it, but nothing of that severity. Highly unfortunate. =(


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


If you enter the Club-exclusive Case Management Contest, you might win one of the best-ever S939 motherboards ever, courtesy of an anonymous member of our club.

To Daemonix and our newest members: Just in case you don't know, the Socket 939 Appreciation Club is running a club-exclusive Case Management Contest. Obviously, it's for Club members only, so I highly encourage you to take those photos and post them up on the thread.

We are entering the homestretch of the contest; we have less than two weeks to go before the contest is over, so to have a shot of winning, you've got to take your shots!


I have. =D I doubt I'll win, though. I need to drill more holes to win, haha.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*


I've NEVER seen it happen before either. No CnQ, either. It's freakin' me out.

I guess it's time for a new board.


Xyro, is there anything in your BIOS in regards to "thermal throttling"?


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Xyro, is there anything in your BIOS in regards to "thermal throttling"?


Not that I'm aware of.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*


Not that I'm aware of.


Xyro, you don't happen to have another S939 processor laying around that you can test with to see if this problem reproduces itself?

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I'm considering selling my DFI LANParty UT nF4 Ultra-D. I haven't made a final decision yet, however.

For sure, though, someone in our club is going to get one for free.







But only if he/she participates in our contest.









Good luck to you!


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Xyro, you don't happen to have another S939 processor laying around that you can test with to see if this problem reproduces itself?

Good luck


I do... I didn't notice the spiking on the 3500+, though...

Hmm...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*


I do... I didn't notice the spiking on the 3500+, though...

Hmm...


Xyro, I'm glad I asked that question









You might want to swap back over and test things out. Did you install any of the AMD patches? I believe there was the optimized file and the windows patch. Instructions on installing those two can be found here: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...ad.php?t=81429

Good luck


----------



## Xyro TR1

Hmm, I believe I've done that already. DualCore Optomizer is only for Athlons, so says the readme. I have it installed, nonetheless. It does nothing. I DO have that /usepmtimer thing though...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*


Hmm, I believe I've done that already. DualCore Optomizer is only for Athlons, so says the readme. I have it installed, nonetheless. It does nothing. I DO have that /usepmtimer thing though...


Xyro, if you had another S939 dual core like an Opteron or X2 this would be a great way to narrow down your problem


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*


Hmm, I believe I've done that already. *DualCore Optomizer is only for Athlons*, so says the readme. I have it installed, nonetheless. It does nothing. I DO have that /usepmtimer thing though...


Not so.

Remember, Athlon64s that have 1MB L2 cache per core (San Diego; Toledo) are the exact same chips as S939 Opterons (Venus; Denmark). So any software patch intended for Athlon64s will work for Opterons as well.


----------



## Blitz6804

I offered for him and his rig to come up here, we can try switch-swatching procs, but he turned me down.


----------



## Xyro TR1

I applied some MS hotfix, and it fixed that surging issue. =)

Now just gotta wait for some more RAMs.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Please welcome our newest member, Tigerplayer!

Glad to have you onboard!


----------



## pioneerisloud

*boobteron Ftw!!!*


----------



## billbartuska

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Instead of guessing and checking as I have, I have found the database!

It will tell you max recommended voltage, max safe temps, et cetera.

I think he's well beyond the recommended voltage.

And Athlons auto-shutdown when overheated, so it's pretty easy to find how hot you can get one.


----------



## Blitz6804

Oh I know that he is. I am just posting the links for people like me who find it necessary to know such things.

And not all Athlons auto-shutdown. As far as I know, it is a motherboard feature.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*


I applied some MS hotfix, and it fixed that surging issue. =)


Xyro, what MS hotfix was it?

Welcome to the thread Tigerplayer


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Xyro, what MS hotfix was it?


This one =D

RAM's still busted, and I only spike about 20Mhz now. I still want the A8R32-MVP, though. If anyone finds a lightly used one for under $100, let me know. =)


----------



## iandroo888

heh i have an a8r32-mvp. not letting it go tho


----------



## Blitz6804

I found one new for $220.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ASUS-A8R32-MVP-D...QQcmdZViewItem

It says it is crossfire? I thought the A8Rs were SLI.

Maybe a reconned Abit KN8 SLI?

http://justdeals.stores.yahoo.net/abkn8sliso93.html


----------



## Parabellum

Interesting news. I threw in a 3500 to see if that cpu worked when my 4600 didnt', but it's not either...Just an update, I'm going to have to tear everything apart and troubleshoot this


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I found one new for $220.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ASUS-A8R32-MVP-D...QQcmdZViewItem

*It says it is crossfire? I thought the A8Rs were SLI.*

Maybe a reconned Abit KN8 SLI?

http://justdeals.stores.yahoo.net/abkn8sliso93.html


Here's the essential clue to know which chipset manufacturer is on an Asus motherboard:

A8*N* = *n*Vidia (for S939, nForce4 in all its flavors)

A8*R* = ATi *R*adeon (RS480 -- XPress 200; RS580 -- XPress 3200)

A8*V* = *V*IA (K8T890)

A8*S* = *S*iS

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Parabellum*


Interesting news. I threw in a 3500 to see if that cpu worked when my 4600 didnt', but it's not either...Just an update, I'm going to have to tear everything apart and troubleshoot this


Likely, then, that it's not the CPU that's tapped out.

Hope you get to the bottom of the problem, Parabellum. Good luck! And please keep us posted.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Here's the essential clue to know which chipset manufacturer is on an Asus motherboard:

A8*N* = *n*Vidia (for S939, nForce4 in all its flavors)

A8*R* = ATi *R*adeon (RS480 -- XPress 200; RS580 -- XPress 3200)

A8*V* = *V*IA (K8T890)

A8*S* = *S*iS


Joe, that is very useful information. I never knew that! Thank you


----------



## Blitz6804

My code cathode shipped yesterday and my cable sleeving kit shipped today. I have yet to decide if I will just slap the sleeves on or go really crazy getting them nice and neat.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well I'm placing the order here in a few minutes, let me know what you guys think:

Samsung 20x DVDRW SATA w/ Lightscribe
BFG Tech 8800GTS OC 512MB (G92)
And finally,
Logitech Momo Racing wheel

Does this sound like a good investment for my rig? BTW, I no longer have my listed burner installed....had to sell it to a client. So I have a 5.25" hole in the front....needs filled, lol. What do you think?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Well I'm placing the order here in a few minutes, let me know what you guys think:

Samsung 20x DVDRW SATA w/ Lightscribe
BFG Tech 8800GTS OC 512MB (G92)
And finally,
Logitech Momo Racing wheel

Does this sound like a good investment for my rig? BTW, I no longer have my listed burner installed....had to sell it to a client. So I have a 5.25" hole in the front....needs filled, lol. What do you think?

Pioneerisloud, woohoo looks good buddy. What racing games do you plan on playing with the Logitech?

Good luck


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Here's the essential clue to know which chipset manufacturer is on an Asus motherboard:

A8*N* = *n*Vidia (for S939, nForce4 in all its flavors)

A8*R* = ATi *R*adeon (RS480 -- XPress 200; RS580 -- XPress 3200)

A8*V* = *V*IA (K8T890)

A8*S* = *S*iS

Likely, then, that it's not the CPU that's tapped out.

Hope you get to the bottom of the problem, Parabellum. Good luck! And please keep us posted.


interesting info. i would of only provided into on a8r and a8n. didnt know there was a8v and a8s LOL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Well I'm placing the order here in a few minutes, let me know what you guys think:

Samsung 20x DVDRW SATA w/ Lightscribe
BFG Tech 8800GTS OC 512MB (G92)
And finally,
Logitech Momo Racing wheel

Does this sound like a good investment for my rig? BTW, I no longer have my listed burner installed....had to sell it to a client. So I have a 5.25" hole in the front....needs filled, lol. What do you think?


*camps in front of his house and waits for shipping courier to come.. *


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pioneerisloud, woohoo looks good buddy. What racing games do you plan on playing with the Logitech?

Good luck










I plan on playing:

Race 07
GTR2
TrackMania Nations
Project Torque
DiRT (hopefully)
NFS Pro Street

And any other recommendations are greatly appreciated. I'm going to ATTEMPT to run my whole NFS collection, but I hear those aren't that good with a wheel....so I may be looking into other games.


----------



## Oscuro

Hey, remember me?
Yeah, haven't really been around since burning out on the whole "getting my computer running" due to 2 lost sets of ram (in the mail, along with a processor). Finally got Corsair XMS.
Set up the comp this evening, taking my slow ass forever.
Turn it on, posts beautifully.

Throw into the old XP disc, and bloody hell monkeys! The 500gb hard drive is refusing to reformat!
Course, bought it off someone here. No guarantees or promises, but dammit. This build has been nothing but craptastic luck. I'm bloody sick of it. Damn near ready to just sell it all off or something.
FFS, I've been dealing with a computer that will crash at any given moment due to the MSI board I got for my roommate's incompatibility with the cheap ass kingston ram I had in my old rig. I haven't played a game of anything since feb, which was the entire reason of trying to build this.
It's now easily costed me over $1600 thanks to lost crap in the mail. Even then, had everything worked out, I still paid over $1300 on a 939 system due to my own idiocy. While I do like 939, for $1300 I could have had something that would have been quite a bit better.

Seriously, someone bloody well kill me now.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Oscuro*


Hey, remember me?
Yeah, haven't really been around since burning out on the whole "getting my computer running" due to 2 lost sets of ram (in the mail, along with a processor). Finally got Corsair XMS.
Set up the comp this evening, taking my slow ass forever.
Turn it on, posts beautifully.

Throw into the old XP disc, and bloody hell monkeys! The 500gb hard drive is refusing to reformat!
Course, bought it off someone here. No guarantees or promises, but dammit. This build has been nothing but craptastic luck. I'm bloody sick of it. Damn near ready to just sell it all off or something.
FFS, I've been dealing with a computer that will crash at any given moment due to the MSI board I got for my roommate's incompatibility with the cheap ass kingston ram I had in my old rig. I haven't played a game of anything since feb, which was the entire reason of trying to build this.
It's now easily costed me over $1600 thanks to lost crap in the mail. Even then, had everything worked out, I still paid over $1300 on a 939 system due to my own idiocy. While I do like 939, for $1300 I could have had something that would have been quite a bit better.

Seriously, someone bloody well kill me now.


Geez, Oscuro...

You must have the worst luck of anyone anywhere.







Were the lost items in the mail total losses? The shipper(s) won't claim any responsibility for what happened?

As far as the XP reformatting dramas, perhaps it could be something else. I would try switching drive cables, or maybe switching ports; it's possible it's not the HDD itself that's crapping out on you.

Please do keep the group updated. I'm sure that somebody else might have more brilliant suggestions that could help you out in case my own expertise is deficient.









Most of all, don't give up on the project.

Best of luck to you!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Oscuro, I'm sorry to hear of your misfortune. Hopefully you get things all working good soon, 939 isn't THAT bad still







. Here in a week I'll be living proof of it, just ordered my 8800GTS 512MB







.


----------



## Oscuro

Orr....it could be the DFI acting up, or something. Drive seems to have formatted. Finally.

Lost stuff in the mail? Well, part of it is my problem, that was all back in feb;
2 went to the wrong address, one just didn't come here. I got pissed off. When I get pissed off, I have a horrible habit of letting everything slide, instead of confronting anyone, or anything about the problem.

Cripes, I need sleep. Drive is reading 100% formatted, but it won't change screen....I wish it would hurry....I want to go to bed already! I've been working with this thing since 4:40, and it's 10:05 now....

And Pioneer, I know 939 ain't bad. But I could have easily have had a good C2D, Mobo, and DDR2 that, coupled with the same 8800 GTX (G80), would have left this behind quite readily.

Oh, wait. Format failed. It reaches 100%, then shows me a failure screen.
Hell, I'm going to bed.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Oscuro*


Orr....it could be the DFI acting up, or something. Drive seems to have formatted. Finally.

Lost stuff in the mail? Well, part of it is my problem, that was all back in feb;
2 went to the wrong address, one just didn't come here. I got pissed off. When I get pissed off, I have a horrible habit of letting everything slide, instead of confronting anyone, or anything about the problem.

Cripes, I need sleep. Drive is reading 100% formatted, but it won't change screen....I wish it would hurry....I want to go to bed already! I've been working with this thing since 4:40, and it's 10:05 now....


Yeeesh!

You need a break, man!









These machines will be around when you wake up.







Rest will do your mind some good and help you think more clearly!

Speaking of which, I will probably turn in too. I need my "ugly sleep."


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Oscuro*


Oh, wait. Format failed. It reaches 100%, then shows me a failure screen.
Hell, I'm going to bed.


Oscuro, welcome back dude









Are you getting this error in the Windows set up screen? What is the exact error message?

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I have had a hard drive that Windows cannot format. Get your hands on an Ubuntu Linux 6.10 or newer live CD, delete the partition, format it in NTFS, restart and install Windows on the new partition, it should be fine.


----------



## iandroo888

was about to suggest what blitz just said.. o well


----------



## Blitz6804

Good news and bad news:

My CCFLs and sleeving kit arrived today.

However, I am too lazy to do it today. Maybe tomorrow afternoon, and if not, then possibly tomorrow. I will post pictures when (haha, IF?) finished.


----------



## iandroo888

oh man. u doing something that requires u to do work. thats going to be a while.

wanna prove me wrong? go do it now!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


oh man. u doing something that requires u to do work. thats going to be a while.

wanna prove me wrong? go do it now!










Ah yes.

Peer pressure must be exerted!

We want to see pictures of the finished project, Sir Counselor!

Pronto!


----------



## iandroo888

txtmstrjoe, wanna put me and blitz under pioneer with "our ranks" haha.. Counselor sounds ok for him. gourmet sounds fail for me. iron chef







XD


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


txtmstrjoe, wanna put me and blitz under pioneer with "our ranks" haha.. Counselor sounds ok for him. gourmet sounds fail for me. iron chef







XD


Interesting idea.

I wonder what this club would be like if everyone earned a nickname...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I wonder what this club would be like if everyone earned a nickname...










Joe, I would like to be called "Tinkerbell" for now on


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Joe, I would like to be called "Tinkerbell" for now on




















"Tinkerbell" it is, then!


----------



## iandroo888

hahahaha tinkerbell XD


----------



## Blitz6804

I preferred Thlnk3rb3|| myself.

I dunno if I like "counselor" to be perfectly honest. Nerd, Esquire? Nah, too hifalutin.

I guess I'll have to settle on Counselor, but I do not see what is wrong with "blitz": you get served like a lightning bolt!

The name actually comes from my usual gaming handle "Blitzkreig," which well establishes my play-style in both RTS and TBS games.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Oscuro* 
Orr....it could be the DFI acting up, or something. Drive seems to have formatted. Finally.

Lost stuff in the mail? Well, part of it is my problem, that was all back in feb;
2 went to the wrong address, one just didn't come here. I got pissed off. When I get pissed off, I have a horrible habit of letting everything slide, instead of confronting anyone, or anything about the problem.

Cripes, I need sleep. Drive is reading 100% formatted, but it won't change screen....I wish it would hurry....I want to go to bed already! I've been working with this thing since 4:40, and it's 10:05 now....

And Pioneer, I know 939 ain't bad. But I could have easily have had a good C2D, Mobo, and DDR2 that, coupled with the same 8800 GTX (G80), would have left this behind quite readily.

Oh, wait. Format failed. It reaches 100%, then shows me a failure screen.
Hell, I'm going to bed.

[email protected] back and GOOD LUCK


----------



## Blitz6804

I had also wanted to paint the inside of my case. However, if I cannot even force myself to sleeve my cables, how would I get around to painting it?

Assuming I can get the effort, afford the paint, and FIND the color I want, what do people think of Gigabyte Blue with metallic flecks? In case you cannot see it in my case:

Click to go to OCInside, host of the picture


I would also like to repaint the outside in similar fashion: black with metallic flecks. How do you get those flecks in anyway? Anyone have any idea where I can get the paints required, the patience needed to do so, and the money to purchase them?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Lord High Counselor sir, you'll need paint that has those metallic particles in them. More than that, though, you'll also need an appropriate opaque base coat and then a final top coat to have that effect.

If you have an airbrush, it'll give you so much more control over the paint you lay down.

Here's the basic, outline procedure to paint: 

Prepare the surface by sanding away any previous coating (paint, top coat, etc.); the surface has to be perfectly smooth (especially with black).

Ensure the surface is perfectly clean of all particulates that may be leftover from the previous step.

Lay on a coat of self-etching primer (found at an auto supply store).

Once the primer is dry, lay down a base coat (black for darker top coats, grey for lighter, white for the lightest top coats).

Smooth down the base coat once dry; apply again if the coverage is uneven. This is the most crucial step, because the coat that goes over this base coat will be your primary coat of paint (i.e., that which shows what color you've chosen -- in this case, metallic black).

Lay on the metallic black paint. Let the paint dry thoroughly; keep dust from landing on the freshly-painted surface.

Once the metallic black is done, lay on two or three light gloss top coats to protect the metallic black finish. Once this is dry, you have the option of polishing the paint by lightly sanding it, then applying wax for a killer shine.
Obviously, this is a most involved, detailed process that isn't the work of a moment. You need time, patience, and elbow grease to make this happen.

But if you do, it's sure to be eye-catching and beautiful!









Hope this helps, Counselor! If you need more detail, I'll try to provide it.

(I used to build scale model cars, by the way; I'm quite comfortable with working with paint prep and paint.)


----------



## OptyTrooper

Too bad most 939 CPU's overclock very poorly in comparison to AM2.

Ain't that right Joey boy.








Tee hee Ernie Hemmingway says hi.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, I have been reading a bunch of threads since posting it. A month with no computer? I do not think I can handle it! Besides, it would never be done by the time of the Skt939 Case Comp, so that further adds to my apathy. (Why is enrollment in the competition so low anyway? Do not people want the chance to show off their rigs?)

I am upset that I seem to be one of the few owners in the North East so I cannot beg those with experience to help me out. You have no idea how much I would love to just get my hands on a cheap (read: like $20) case to put my stuff on while my tower goes on a field trip to be painted. Maybe if I can get a job this summer, thats a chance.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OptyTrooper*


Too bad most 939 CPU's overclock very poorly in comparison to AM2.

Ain't that right Joey boy.








Tee hee Ernie Hemmingway says hi.


The rumors ARE true!

What's up, Ernie!









Still hilarious as always!









Just wait till our resident "chicken" sees this; I wonder if he'll recognize the reanimated specter in our midst...









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Yeah, I have been reading a bunch of threads since posting it. A month with no computer? I do not think I can handle it! Besides, it would never be done by the time of the Skt939 Case Comp, so that further adds to my apathy. (Why is enrollment in the competition so low anyway? Do not people want the chance to show off their rigs?)

I am upset that I seem to be one of the few owners in the North East so I cannot beg those with experience to help me out. You have no idea how much I would love to just get my hands on a cheap (read: like $20) case to put my stuff on while my tower goes on a field trip to be painted. Maybe if I can get a job this summer, thats a chance.


Pfft, you and me both, sir Counselor.

I would've thought that our generous prizes would be great incentive for participation...

I guess I'll have to cajole our anonymous donor into giving ME that DFI LANParty UT nF4 motherboard because of low turnout...

It'd be fair compensation for getting that show off the ground, and then getting left high and dry.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OptyTrooper*


Too bad most 939 CPU's overclock very poorly in comparison to AM2.

Ain't that right Joey boy.








Tee hee Ernie Hemmingway says hi.

















BLASPHEMY














May the "GODS OF OVERCLOCKING" bestow upon you and endless onslaught of never ending BLUE SCREENS


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*
















BLASPHEMY



























Nah, don't worry about "Ernie" over there. He's a good old friend.

Just don't press the S939 vs. AM2 point with him.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Do I happen to know this OptyTrooper guy? I feel that I know the way he speaks from someone.......just can't put my finger on it..............

And c'mon now. My 165 hitting a 3.27GHz (suicide), and a 3.0GHz (stable)....find me an AM2 that can do a 1.2GHz overclock stable. Then we'll talk







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Do I happen to know this OptyTrooper guy? I feel that I know the way he speaks from someone.......just can't put my finger on it..............

And c'mon now. My 165 hitting a 3.27GHz (suicide), and a 3.0GHz (stable)....find me an AM2 that can do a 1.2GHz overclock stable. Then we'll talk







.


You *ought* to know him.










I think he caused you to Kentucky Fry your OS one time...


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*











Nah, don't worry about "Ernie" over there. He's a good old friend.

Just don't press the S939 vs. AM2 point with him.










na i wouldnt do that , i dont have the knowledge yet







but im workin on it


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


na i wouldnt do that , i dont have the knowledge yet







but im workin on it


boonie, my friend, we all are.


----------



## Blitz6804

I think I'll hold off on AMD until the AM3 comes out.

No, I will not be buying an Intel in the meantime.

Socket 939 suits me fine! WHAT TIME IS IT?!


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I think I'll hold off on AMD until the AM3 comes out.

No, I will not be buying an Intel in the meantime.

Socket 939 suits me fine! WHAT TIME IS IT?!










11.19


----------



## Blitz6804

Apparently they do not set the clocks in Florida properly.

As txtmstrjoe will tell you, clocks in SoCal and Buffalo always read...


----------



## OptyTrooper

Muahahahaha!

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=320007

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=305770

Keep the faith kids and hi there P.Chicken!

Seriously 939 was a great socket, just having fun with you guys. My apologies if I offend anyone.


----------



## Oscuro

Trying it again. Switched SATA cables between the DVD and HD. Not working so far.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *OptyTrooper* 
Muahahahaha!

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=320007

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=305770

Keep the faith kids and hi there P.Chicken!

Seriously 939 was a great socket, just having fun with you guys. My apologies if I offend anyone.

Them CPUz validation links is all I needed to piece together this puzzle. I KNOW WHO YOU ARE NOW! I OWN YOUR OVERCLOCK....MWAHAHAHAHA!

Okay, so maybe I don't own it...but I do remember a time when I raced you for top clocks...and somehow came out victorious! Glad to see you back on the forums!


----------



## justin146

I was planning on using my recently made naked 939 3200 on my build for the case mod competition- but I just scored an AM2 Foxconn (Emachine OEM) mobo with Vista Home Premium reinstall disk on eBay. Now I need to find a cheap AM2 anything and some DDR2


----------



## Oscuro

Did the same thing again, gets to 100%, then pops up a screen saying that it could not format the partition due to damage, or whatever else, and to use another partition.

I have Ubuntu 7.10, but how do you format the drive without installing Ubuntu?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Oscuro, have you tried running any hard drive Diagnostics yet? If its a Seagate / Maxtor or even some Western Digital drives...I find Seatools to be quite useful. Maybe you should run some diagnostics and make sure you're harddrive even works well?


----------



## OptyTrooper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Them CPUz validation links is all I needed to piece together this puzzle. I KNOW WHO YOU ARE NOW! I OWN YOUR OVERCLOCK....MWAHAHAHAHA!

Okay, so maybe I don't own it...but I do remember a time when I raced you for top clocks...and somehow came out victorious! Glad to see you back on the forums!

I remember when you tried to repeat the the performance sans Clockgen and failed via OS and RAM meltdown.

Thanks for the welcome and good job on this thread.


----------



## Oscuro

Never thought of that, I'll try it tomorrow.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *OptyTrooper* 
I remember when you tried to repeat the the performance sans Clockgen and failed via OS and RAM meltdown.

Thanks for the welcome and good job on this thread.

Don't remind me! That still sends shivers through me when I think of how stupid that was of me to do. 3.3v through my RAM....WHAT WAS I THINKING?????

I have a question for you guys. I have $395 to spend. Here's my two lists:

List #1:
Lite-On DVDRW no Lightscribe (SATA)
Seagate 7200.10 250GB SATA HD
eVGA 8800GT Vanilla
Logitech Momo Racing Wheel

List #2:
Samsung DVDRW w/ Lightscribe (SATA) (I know I love Samsung drives)
eVGA 8800GTS KO 512MB
Logitech Momo Racing Wheel
Some pretty UV thingies for my RAM and PCI slots

Which one should I go with?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Before I attempt to sleep again, a small announcement:

We have a new member: Some dude named OptyTrooper has been been added to our roster. Don't let the surly facade fool you too much, though...









Okay. Back to bed with me!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I just ordered a pair from Newegg, saved myself $3!

Now, if only I can get them installed and my wires cleaned up in time for the case comp lol.


oh yeah! I just saved myself a bunch of money by switching to Geico....no really I did.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Apparently they do not set the clocks in Florida properly.

As txtmstrjoe will tell you, clocks in SoCal and Buffalo always read...

you may be right , its hard to get used to these "sundials" especially at night


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
you may be right , its hard to get used to these "sundials" especially at night

we have digital sundials in Indiana.....down by the outhouse......


----------



## alk

hey, get me on this list!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alk* 
hey, get me on this list!

If you'd like to join, all you have to get is a simple CPUz validation! You can either post it here, or PM it to myself, txtmstrjoe, or thlnk3r...and we'll get you on the list







!


----------



## billbartuska

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Oh I know that he is. I am just posting the links for people like me who find it necessary to know such things.

And not all Athlons auto-shutdown. As far as I know, it is a motherboard feature.

Pardon me. It's Athlon 64's, and it's built into the CPU.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Oscuro* 
Did the same thing again, gets to 100%, then pops up a screen saying that it could not format the partition due to damage, or whatever else, and to use another partition.

I have Ubuntu 7.10, but how do you format the drive without installing Ubuntu?

You put in the CD an tell it to boot a live partition.

In the launcher, I think under administrative tools, you will find a "gnome partition editor." Tell it to delete the partition, then create a new NTFS partition. Once done, restart the computer and try to install windows.

EDIT: And billbartuska, what temperature does that happen? I have viewed several movies of A64s popping well before they ever shut off.


----------



## thlnk3r

Welcome to the thread OptyTrooper


----------



## OptyTrooper

Thanks thlnk3r. I hope to learn a lot and contribute where I can. I am a bit of a noob so please bear with me.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *OptyTrooper* 
Thanks thlnk3r. I hope to learn a lot and contribute where I can. I am a bit of a noob so please bear with me.









Opty, no problem that is what we are here for


----------



## boonie2

Welcome Opty Trooper


----------



## txtmstrjoe

boonie and Guardian, you should see my solar-powered pocket sundial.









Kinda gets all screwy though when you turn around.

@ blitz: Those Athlons you've seen blowing themselves up on YouTube and the like were likely hoaxes. If I remember correctly, there used to be discussions here on OCN about whether or not that could actually happen, and as I recall the conclusion was that spontaneous combustion as seen happening on YouTube could only really happen with rigged charges.


----------



## OptyTrooper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
boonie and Guardian, you should see my solar-powered pocket sundial.









Kinda gets all screwy though when you turn around.

@ blitz: Those Athlons you've seen blowing themselves up on YouTube and the like were likely hoaxes. If I remember correctly, there used to be discussions here on OCN about whether or not that could actually happen, and as I recall the conclusion was that spontaneous combustion as seen happening on YouTube could only really happen with rigged charges.

Agreed. However amusing they might be an incendiary explosion is nothing more than a extremely rapid burn and for a CPU to heat quickly enough to actually explode is highly unlikely. Not out of the realm of possibilty but highly unlikely.


----------



## thlnk3r

Joe & Opty, agreed! The whole thing about, "frying my cpu" ect is completely fake, false and physically impossible.

For Athlon XP's that is a totally different story...


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe & Opty, agreed! The whole thing about, "frying my cpu" ect is completely fake, false and physically impossible.

For Athlon XP's that is a totally different story...









Does that mean my final overclock on my beloved 4000+ sandy should be ok at 12v 6.5ghz?


----------



## Blitz6804

So boonie2, got your Opty in yet? If not, what is taking you so long?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


Does that mean my final overclock on my beloved 4000+ sandy should be ok at 12v 6.5ghz?

















If you can keep it cool, why not?









(I won't volunteer any of my chips to find that out, though.







)


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


So boonie2, got your Opty in yet? If not, what is taking you so long?


not yet it shipped from wisc. this morning so maybe sat. but i think monday , USPS takes awhile


----------



## txtmstrjoe

boonie, you posting your Opteron OCing adventure here?


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


If you can keep it cool, why not?









(I won't volunteer any of my chips to find that out, though.







)


I think she'll be retired to karens computer with my old PQI turbo .... shes just got a tiny lil sempron now and 1gb cheapo ram ....{think she might be getting jealouse}


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


boonie, you posting your Opteron OCing adventure here?


















Absolutely


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


I think she'll be retired to karens computer with my old PQI turbo .... shes just got a tiny lil sempron now and 1gb cheapo ram ....{think she might be getting jealouse}










Aha. Good man.

Gotta take care of your lady (and your lady's machine) if you want your lady to take care of you.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*









Absolutely










Sweet! I'm looking forward to that.

Hey! Perhaps you can jump in and join in our Club-exclusive contest once your new chip gets to you. You put it in, fire it up, then take some glamor shots!

Who knows: You might even win a "new" motherboard!









(And this last part goes for all the rest of ya who haven't posted your pictures yet! To have a shot, you have to take your shots!)


----------



## boonie2

Will do ,


----------



## Oscuro

Club Exclusive Contest?
Maybe I'll just throw in my 160 gig and start thinking of tidying them cables...


----------



## Poser

Peoples, what is the current status of the case management contest? I have been out of the loop for a bit, so if possible I would appreciate being brought up to speed...

last time I checked there were only 1100 ish posts


----------



## iandroo888

current status. like 5 entrees.. lol.. contest ending next week. thats it. lol


----------



## Blitz6804

I have most of the cables that I can sleeve sleeved. I cannot remove the terminal SATA power plugs without breaking them off, so I will be checking Radio Shack to see if there are replacement ones.


----------



## Parabellum

The cpu is looking pretty dead. Nothing I'm doing is showing it has any spark of life.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Parabellum* 
The cpu is looking pretty dead. Nothing I'm doing is showing it has any spark of life.

I'm sorry to hear that







. I forget what it is you did to it.....if its not lapped or naked, maybe you could RMA? Just an idea, lol.


----------



## Blitz6804

As far as I recall, it was both.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Parabellum* 
The cpu is looking pretty dead. Nothing I'm doing is showing it has any spark of life.

Sorry to hear about that, Parabellum.


----------



## Poser

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I have most of the cables that I can sleeve sleeved. I cannot remove the terminal SATA power plugs without breaking them off, so I will be checking Radio Shack to see if there are replacement ones.

check out here , they have a wide range of tools and accessories for case management


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Parabellum*


The cpu is looking pretty dead. Nothing I'm doing is showing it has any spark of life.


Parabellum, did we already ask you if you tried testing with a different 939 processor?


----------



## Blitz6804

I have updated my post in the case contest to reflect the CCFL and the wire sleeving.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I have updated my post in the case contest to reflect the CCFL and the wire sleeving.


Lol, posting here and the contest....I like your thinking


----------



## Blitz6804

I also posted in the thread devoted to my computer. There, you can see the before and afters in case anyone forgot how pathetic it used to look compared to how passible it is now.

If I had the patience and some power tools, I could make it better. However, I don't, so I can't, so I won't.


----------



## iandroo888

lol and proves my point of saying blitz is lazy. but im suprised he even went thru the trouble of sleeving. so +1 for that haha.

tbh, i dont really see much different in the cabling.. still a buncha wires like a bunch a spider webs. lol.. o well. getting extension cables and running it differently also helps.

just put my server together. used the rocketfish case (oh man its too big) temporarily using the a8r32-mvp and fx-60. *IF* i win the contest, ill switch out the fx-60 and put my old 4200+. then make the DFI and fx-60 secondary rig.


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, that, and I own nothing that can cut or drill into 1.0 mm SECC (Steel, Electrogalvanized, ColdRolled, Coil). If I had the V6000a (1.0 mm Aluminum), it would be less laughable, but still very hard to do.


----------



## iandroo888

thats what SECC is? dam. thats what the CM690 is made of also. it wasnt too bad. patience and ability to hold down the item being cut goes a long way. wonder what the rocketfish case is made of..


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


thats what SECC is? dam. thats what the CM690 is made of also. it wasnt too bad. patience and ability to hold down the item being cut goes a long way. *wonder what the rocketfish case is made of..*


iandroo, my boy, like most Lian Li cases, it's made of aluminum.


----------



## Oscuro

At some point, I may decide to cut into the stacker I have...Really, they could have thought to put some holes in the mobo tray area. Would have made life much easier.

But it is working! Dropped in my 160 gig Samsung, reformatted it. Yay.
Now, I downloaded WD's hard drive diagnostics...but it I can't extract it. Bloody hell.
Yes, 500gig is a Western Digital 500AAKS


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
iandroo, my boy, like most Lian Li cases, it's made of aluminum.









shush. never had a lian li case before.


----------



## boonie2

shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
shush. never had a lian li case before.

My young apprentice, the Rocketfish is a Lian Li.









(Pass the word. But very very quietly...)


----------



## Oscuro

Lets see...Windows will not format the WD drive. I can't unzip/install their diagnostics either.

Good news: The Opty 170 is currently sitting at 27-29 degrees on the first core, and 30-33 on the second. The 5 degree spread bothers me though, and I think it might be due to an improper HSF seating. I guess I'll let it cure and see how it all pans out.

Strangely though, response times seem sluggish. need to figure that one out.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


My young apprentice, the Rocketfish is a Lian Li.









(Pass the word. But very very quietly...)


i knew that already -.-" *stabs him with a butter knife*


----------



## GuardianOdin

my next case Stacker 830


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Oscuro*


Lets see...Windows will not format the WD drive. I can't unzip/install their diagnostics either.


Oscuro, how are you trying to format the WD drive? Are you trying the quick format or full? Sometimes the full format works best on a brand new drive.

Let us know

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Oscuro*


Lets see...Windows will not format the WD drive. I can't unzip/install their diagnostics either.

Good news: The Opty 170 is currently sitting at 27-29 degrees on the first core, and 30-33 on the second. The 5 degree spread bothers me though, and I think it might be due to an improper HSF seating. I guess I'll let it cure and see how it all pans out.

Strangely though, response times seem sluggish. need to figure that one out.


Have you been able to format it from a Linux live CD?

The temperature spread is not a major issue. The cores will rarely, if ever, be the same temperature even with a perfect seat. Mine for example vary from 4-6Âº C. However, if you had a delta in excess of 8Âº C or so, that may be dispositive of a problem.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


i knew that already -.-" *stabs him with a butter knife*


----------



## Blitz6804

txtmstrjoe:

He knew that. He meant to say "I have not had a Lian Li PRIOR to having my Rocketfish."

Oscuro:

Assuming Ubuntu Linux 7.10 (Gusty Gibbon):

1) Insert the CD/DVD in your drive
2) Select "Start or install Ubuntu"
3) Wait a while while Linux is installed to RAM (faster with the CD version than the DVD version)
4) From the launcher, click System > Administration > Partition Editor (this opens GParted; also available as a standalone boot disk)
5) Click on any existing partition on the WD drive
6) Click Delete
7) Click the now unallocated space
8) Click New
9) Next to Filesystem, click ntfs
10) Click Add
11) Click Apply
12) Accept any confirmations
13) Upon completion, restart; remove the Ubuntu disk when prompted and place the XP disk in at this point if an install is forthcoming
14) Boot to Windows XP CD and install (if desired as per step 13)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


txtmstrjoe:

He knew that. He meant to say "I have not had a Lian Li PRIOR to having my Rocketfish."


Ohhhhh.








D'oh!

Thanks a lot, guys, for bursting my bubble (aka my delusions of adequacy).










In all seriousness, please welcome our newest member, cruizer!

Welcome to you!


----------



## thlnk3r

Welcome Cruizer to the thread!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Another welcome for Cruizer!

iandroo:
You know, its not smart to be stabbing the club leader with a butter knife









Oscuro:
Temperature deltas of up to 5*C or so are perfectly normal. My X2 has seen deltas up to 35*C, with the warmer core hitting 85*C!!! Lol, that was most definitely a bad seat job. But on a good seat, you can expect there to be up to 5*C delta. Nothing at all to worry about. NOW GET THAT THING OVERCLOCKED!

@ Everyone else (including the listed above):
I CAN'T WAIT! MY NEW 8800GTS 512MB WILL BE HERE ON TUESDAY! I will be waiting outside the door for the UPS guy from like 8am till he gets here most likely. Then I'll greet him like a dog when his owner gets home from work. I might even pant a little, lol.


----------



## iandroo888

@ pioneerisloud :

i used a butter knife cuz he is the leader. would of been a katana or something if he wasnt. LOL

@ oscuro :

lol 5 degree delta is nothin!

@ pioneerisloud again :

*camps outside his house on tuesday and takes package...* *ups/newegg will ship u another package







*


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


@ pioneerisloud :

i used a butter knife cuz he is the leader. would of been a katana or something if he wasnt. LOL

@ oscuro :

lol 5 degree delta is nothin!

@ pioneerisloud again :

*camps outside his house on tuesday and takes package...* *ups/newegg will ship u another package







*


Are you forgetting I'm going to be camping outside my house waiting for the UPS guy? It's my birthday on Tuesday, and I have nothing better to do! I just wanna get my new stuff and put it all in!


----------



## Oscuro

Ahh, then it is good to know about the Delta. Never knew, never had a dual core before. I knew it wasn't going to be identical, but I thought it would have been a bit closer, in the area of 2-3 degrees. Ahhh well.

I tried formatting the WD with a regular format first, always do. Then quick. When I threw in the samsung at reformatted it, and installed winslow, I tried again to format the WD.
Hell, I tried to use the Ubuntu 7.10 Live CD to install Ubuntu, that didn't work.

Will try the method Blitz posted right now.

edit: Also been having a strange issue with Flash videos and crap; any time I watch something on youtube, or anything else using a flash video, I get 1-2 minutes of playback before it just stops. No errors, just stops dead. Any ideas?


----------



## iandroo888

*brings a sniper rifle*


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Oscuro* 
Ahh, then it is good to know about the Delta. Never knew, never had a dual core before. I knew it wasn't going to be identical, but I thought it would have been a bit closer, in the area of 2-3 degrees. Ahhh well.

I tried formatting the WD with a regular format first, always do. Then quick. When I threw in the samsung at reformatted it, and installed winslow, I tried again to format the WD.
Hell, I tried to use the Ubuntu 7.10 Live CD to install Ubuntu, that didn't work.

Will try the method Blitz posted right now.

edit: Also been having a strange issue with Flash videos and crap; any time I watch something on youtube, or anything else using a flash video, I get 1-2 minutes of playback before it just stops. No errors, just stops dead. Any ideas?

Weird plethora of issues, Oscuro.

I usually just do a straightforward installation of any OS (WinXP, Ubuntu) on a freshly (fully) formatted HDD; I've never encountered any problems with doing things this way. I'll have to review your notes, Oscuro, and see if you had any installation problems with just a straightforward install (my mind's RAM is prone to corruption and, therefore, data loss).

The flash issues I have no ideas either. I hope someone here can offer more helpful information.


----------



## Oscuro

Just a note: THe 500AAKS is not a brand new drive, bought it off of a member on these forums back in Feb. When it arrived, I didn't check it or test it since I was lazy, and I assumed it would be good, so I left it until I got good ram to put this system all together.

GParted just crashed after it said it had finished all operations on the WD...

The HD was securely wrapped in bubble wrap, possible static electricity damage?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Static electricity on the circuit board? Maybe.

Does the HDD make any weird noises?

(And thanks for refreshing my memory.)


----------



## Oscuro

Nothing that I have noticed. Apparently GParted worked (Windows is recognizing it as formatted).

Also just remembered another problem: Some things I've downloaded are refusing to open, windows reporting them as corrupt, or partially corrupt. Now, I wouldn't consider this odd if it were just 1 or 2 files/programs. But it's almost like every 2/3 things I download is considered corrupt.
Not downloading things from weird sites either, tried Everest from Oldversion.com, the "latest" version was corrupt. And the K-lite Standard codec pack I downloaded is considered corrupt.
Hell, I've been trying to download TF2 through steam for over 20 hours now, on a solid cable connection (I have downloaded at over 1000kb/s before). Steam will just...stop downloading. Currently stuck at 58%.

Something is seriously messed up here, and it is driving me nuts.


----------



## thlnk3r

Oscuro, do you have another machine local? I'd recommend downloading Western Digitals Lifeguard Tools and running a diagnostic on the drive. Run the surface scan. This will look for bad sectors ect. Download the .iso and burn the image to a CD. It's a bootable CD so make sure to change your first boot device to your optical drive.

Please perform the surface scan on your WD drive. I highly recommend it for troubleshooting purposes.

Good luck


----------



## Oscuro

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Oscuro, do you have another machine local? I'd recommend downloading Western Digitals Lifeguard Tools and running a diagnostic on the drive. Run the surface scan. This will look for bad sectors ect. Download the .iso and burn the image to a CD. It's a bootable CD so make sure to change your first boot device to your optical drive.

Please perform the surface scan on your WD drive. I highly recommend it for troubleshooting purposes.

Good luck









I tried downloading the windows version to my seagate, but it wouldn't install...
Hmmm...maybe I'll do the .iso now instead...
Or rather...tomorrow...need sleep.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Oscuro*


Just a note: THe 500AAKS is not a brand new drive, bought it off of a member on these forums back in Feb. When it arrived, I didn't check it or test it since I was lazy, and I assumed it would be good, so I left it until I got good ram to put this system all together.

GParted just crashed after it said it had finished all operations on the WD...

The HD was securely wrapped in bubble wrap, possible static electricity damage?


theres a chance that its static that screwed up the drive. my cousin has told me before to never use bubble wrap directly with any exposed computer electrical components. always use a static free bag then the bubble wrap. (he told me this when i was wrapping up mobo's)


----------



## pioneerisloud

I'd have to agree with Iandroo here. You ALWAYS use an anti-static bag for ANY computer equipment...if you're unsure, anti-static wrap it! Just like sex! If you're unsure, wrap it!


----------



## Clairvoy8nt

I'd like to join up! I recently got 2.82GHz stable on my 4200+ X2 Manchester 939. Here's some screen shots:


----------



## boonie2

Welcome Cruizer / MATT , just submitt it to the powers that be , the ultimate grand poo baa .... Welcome to the dark side


----------



## boonie2

Quick question...can i upgrade from xp pro 32bit to vista 64 bit without a clean install , so as not to lose all my programs / files and software?? [think i know the answer already tho] thanx


----------



## Blitz6804

Welcome to the club Matt012; outstanding job on that Manny!

You new Opty is coming Monday I take it boonie2?

I just thought I would let everyone know my computer is now a full tri-boot: XP Home (default), Vista Ultimate, Ubuntu 7.10!

Now... should I add also Freespire and OSX... hm...

EDIT (to address Boonie, supra): You can only upgrade to Vista 64-bit from XP 64-bit. To swap from x86 to x64 requires a fresh install. (See MS Knowledgebase 932795.)


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Welcome to the club Matt012; outstanding job on that Manny!

You new Opty is coming Monday I take it boonie2?

I just thought I would let everyone know my computer is now a full tri-boot: XP Home (default), Vista Ultimate, Ubuntu 7.10!

Now... should I add also Freespire and OSX... hm...


i sure hope so i thought it would be here sat. got an email friday he was trying to print out shipping , but with my zip code it showed a different city than i gave him..so he had to confirm the addy and zip to make sure it would be delivered ...{hassles of living on the border of 2 cities}














[thanx blitz , i was afraid of that .. oh well along night when i do the upgrade then .. need to run 64 bit so i can use my 4gb of ram]


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah; given your video card, you will only be able to use 3.0-3.5 GB of RAM. Personally, I think that is fine.

In my case, I have access to 3.5 GB of RAM, as well as 7 GB of Virtual Memory, and when in Vista, 4 GB of ReadyBoost. I believe in having enough page file to sink a ship! (10.5 GB in XP, 14.25 GB in Vista)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


Quick question...can i upgrade from xp pro 32bit to vista 64 bit without a clean install , so as not to lose all my programs / files and software?? [think i know the answer already tho] thanx


Unless you use the "Upgrade" option on the disk (which most experts don't recommend, for various reasons), I don't think it's possible without the risk of affecting your files and programs. I remember Leo LaPorte in particular not recommending this action.

In other news: Welcome our two newest members, Matt012 and alexgheseger!

And blitz: You get a "triple boot score" bonus!







Seriously, though, that's cool!









EDIT: Our Counselor has given you better, more accurate advice, boonie.







Disregard mine.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Oscuro*


I tried downloading the windows version to my seagate, but it wouldn't install...
Hmmm...maybe I'll do the .iso now instead...
Or rather...tomorrow...need sleep.


Oscuro, how was the drive shipped to you? Was it postal or fedex/ups? I'm guessing either the drive has bad sectors, the original shipped you a bad drive (hopefully unlikely) or the packaged was mishandled during shipment.

Welcome Matt012 to the thread


----------



## Oscuro

USPS, and wrapped in bubble. The Drive _is_ formatted though, it just crashed GParted when it finished....I'm just unsure of putting anything onto it now *laughs*


----------



## iandroo888

anyone install SP1 for Vista yet? i just got the update for it but im kinda skeptical how it does. anyone know anything about it?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Oscuro*


USPS, and wrapped in bubble. The Drive _is_ formatted though, it just crashed GParted when it finished....I'm just unsure of putting anything onto it now *laughs*


Oscuro, check the warranty on the WD500AAKS by going here: http://websupport.wdc.com/warranty/s...rranty&lang=en

Just input the serial number and check the warranty. If the drive is bad I'd recommend sending it back. I'm pretty sure you have at least a 3 year warranty on that WD drive. *Perform a surface scan on the drive. I don't think you would want to save data to a failing drive would you?*. Just because you were able to format the drive and copy data over to it doesn't mean it's working %100









Good luck


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


anyone install SP1 for Vista yet? i just got the update for it but im kinda skeptical how it does. anyone know anything about it?


Iandroo, you could always set up a virtual on your machine and test it that way


----------



## Blitz6804

I am precluded from running Vista SP1 on any rig until UPEK updates Protector Suite QL to be compatible; sorry I cannot help you.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1* 
This one =D

RAM's still busted, and I only spike about 20Mhz now. I still want the A8R32-MVP, though. If anyone finds a lightly used one for under $100, let me know. =)

I had briefly had this hotfix installed after you mentioned it. It decreased the frequency of my voltage spikes.

However:

I would get 1-2 blue screens a day. Accordingly, I took it off.

Anyone know how to get a Soundblaster X-Fi running in Linux? It is incompatible with ALSA.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I had briefly had this hotfix installed after you mentioned it. It decreased the frequency of my voltage spikes.

However:

I would get 1-2 blue screens a day. Accordingly, I took it off.

Anyone know how to get a Soundblaster X-Fi running in Linux? It is incompatible with ALSA.

Blitz, check out this forum: http://www.justlinux.com/forum/showt...hreadid=144358

I hope that helps


----------



## Oscuro

Well, I just benched this think of '06. No special preparations and got 7880...
Everything at Stock. Now, I must tweak it....


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Oscuro*


Well, I just benched this think of '06. No special preparations and got 7880...
Everything at Stock. Now, I must tweak it....


yeah itll get better , just with my detup i got 7950 so..........


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hey S939ers, who's up for a game of "Who's got the highest ambient temperatures"?

I'll start.

Room thermometer says: 32.8 degrees Celsius (91.04 degrees Fahrenheit).

Yay me.


----------



## Blitz6804

I lose txtmstrjoe. I have 16.1Âº C (61.0Âº F). It is 5Âº C (41Âº F) outside if I wanted to open the door.

Boo me.

I just noticed... one more post and I am Socket A! (462 pins)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Hey S939ers, who's up for a game of "Who's got the highest ambient temperatures"?

I'll start.

Room thermometer says: 32.8 degrees Celsius (91.04 degrees Fahrenheit).

Yay me.











Joe, I think it's almost 80F here but I haven't turned on my A/C yet


----------



## iandroo888

its 83F outside... probably 5 - 10 degrees higher in room.. no thermometer so cant check


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I lose txtmstrjoe. I have 16.1Âº C (61.0Âº F). It is 5Âº C (41Âº F) outside if I wanted to open the door.


I hate you.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Joe, I think it's almost 80F here but I haven't turned on my A/C yet










I hate you, too!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


its 83F outside... probably 5 - 10 degrees higher in room.. no thermometer so cant check


iandroo, you're okay. I don't hate you so much.


----------



## iandroo888

i averaged my mobo temps. between a8r32-mvp and a8n32-sli. 43C and 37C... average 40C so around 103 F or so..


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


i averaged my mobo temps. between a8r32-mvp and a8n32-sli. 43C and 37C... average 40C so around 103 F or so..


That's not the same as ambient temperatures, iandroo!


----------



## boonie2

68.5 F here brrrrrrrrrrrr


----------



## iandroo888

thats the best i can dooooo


----------



## Blitz6804

If we used my temps as an example, there is a 15Âº C difference between ambient and MoBo temp. Accordingly, his room is 25Âº C (77Âº F).

Now, keeping in mind my MoBo sensor is screwwy, and I instead consider my case temp (about 4Âº C warmer than ambient), I would presume Andrew's room to be 36Âº C (97Âº F).


----------



## Oscuro

Doesn't seem to be too warm, but I have no idea. Should get a thermometer at some point.

I have a feeling my oc's are going to be a bit limited by my cooler. Ahhh well, not going for max suicide benches anyways *laughs*. Currently running OCCT at 2.1 ghz and hitting 55/46 degrees on the cores...

I need a second fan on that damned HSF at the least.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I be Scorpion, spawn of Hades!

In case it's hard to see, the arrows point to:

Core #1 Temp @ Orthos Small FFTs load: 56 degs C
Core #2 Temp @ Orthos Small FFTs load: 53 degs C










@ Oscuro: Your temps seem really high given the OC you've given your CPU. What's your VCore setting?


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I be Scorpion, spawn of Hades!


I think it would be appropriate to call me Sub Zero (given I am always the one who is enjoying cold weather). What is ironic is that Sub Zero is my primary Mortal Kombat character. (Kano is my back-up sometimes; depends on the game. I stopped playing them after MKT, because that is when they stopped being good in my opinion.)


----------



## MikeV_E36

I'm also a proud owner of an Athlon x2 4200+ socketed on an Asus A8N32-Sli Deluxe, which I bought 3 years ago and now I feel the need to o/c the system







. So I'm off to purchasing a ThermalRight Utlra 120 Extreme and an 8800GTS 512 and willing to hit an o/c @2.640. Any help on this o/c would be appreciated! I'll be back with news as soon as the components arrive

ps
txtmstrjoe i've read a post of you saying about Asus A8N32-Sli Deluxe o/c guide! Did you find at last time to compose it?


----------



## Oscuro

Vcore is stock 1.35. However, it is a stock Noctua NH-U9F which is the 92mm cooler. Can't even feel the air coming through the damned thing.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


I'm also a proud owner of an Athlon x2 4200+ socketed on an Asus A8N32-Sli Deluxe, which I bought 3 years ago and now I feel the need to o/c the system







. So I'm off to purchasing a ThermalRight Utlra 120 Extreme and an 8800GTS 512 and willing to hit an o/c @2.640. Any help on this o/c would be appreciated! I'll be back with news as soon as the components arrive


MikeV, we'd love to have you join us here.







To join the club, you just need to post your CPU-Z validation or PM me, thlnk3r, or pioneerisloud with either a screenshot or validation link of your S939 system.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


ps
txtmstrjoe i've read a post of you saying about Asus A8N32-Sli Deluxe o/c guide! Did you find at last time to compose it?


I have not finished it; it's a work in progress, one in a huge pile of ongoing writing projects I've given myself.









It's good you reminded me of this, though. I've not been on that horse for a long time.

@ blitz: Sub-Zero, huh? I liked him a lot, too.

Wish I had him in my bedroom right now, though.

(In retrospect, that didn't sound right... meh, I'll leave it in...)

(Oh jeez... that didn't sound right, either...)










Quote:



Originally Posted by *Oscuro*


Vcore is stock 1.35. However, it is a stock Noctua NH-U9F which is the 92mm cooler. Can't even feel the air coming through the damned thing.


I'd switch to a stronger fan. Noctua fans are great for silence, but lack the grunt to be too useful in high heat.

Have you tried running at less than 1.35V? Some chips are actually able to sustain even high OCs at sub-stock VCore. pioneerisloud and thlnk3r own such chips.

Also, have you experimented with varying TIM application techniques?


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


@ blitz: Sub-Zero, huh? I liked him a lot, too.

Wish I had him in my bedroom right now, though.

(In retrospect, that didn't sound right... meh, I'll leave it in...)

(Oh jeez... that didn't sound right, either...)


Uhm... just a bit disturbing...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Oscuro*


Vcore is stock 1.35. However, it is a stock Noctua NH-U9F which is the 92mm cooler. Can't even feel the air coming through the damned thing.


That CPU cooler has three settings; 1600 RPM, 1150 RPM, and 850 RPM. (Source) I know not how to differentiate between the modes (the manual is none to clear) but that may be what is going on.


----------



## Oscuro

May have to read the manual, but I haven't used one of the "ultra low noise" adapters. Just plugged the fan straight to the motherboard. The odd part is, in the BIOS, it doesn't seem to recognize it, saying that it isn't spinning at all (0 rpm). I have checked, and yes, It is working. At what speed though, I don't know, although I assume it should be 1600 or so.


----------



## MikeV_E36

There you go, here's my s939 proof


----------



## Oscuro

Haven't tried lower voltage yet. But yes, definitely need a pair of new fans. Time to go suggestion hunting. Oh joy, more monies....


----------



## froggy1986

Welcome to all the new members in the club, sorry been gone awhile, theres to many to name all seperate. For those of you who haven't entered into the Case Management Contest please do so, the deadline is coming up soon and there aren't many entries considering how many people are in this club. There are some great prizes up for grabs, but as for bragging rights, its hard to brag about winning a contest that doesn't have many entries. BTW to those that have entered already... there are some really nice ones, just thought I would say something...lol... I'm off to catch up on everything else I've been missing the last few days.


----------



## Oscuro

Hmmm...
2200 so far @ 1.25Vcore

Using quick OCCT runs of 10 minutes to see where I get to, then I'll nudge the Vcore back up. Hoping to keep load temp under 60 degrees for the moment.
Final OC will need to be 8 hours stable under OCCT.

Then I'll start playing around with the ram timings for a bit. Oh, and currently running the Corsairs at 1:1.


----------



## iandroo888

*sniff sniff* why did blitz get a title


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Just wanted to thank our new *CLUB PROOFREADER*, our very own Mr. Counselor, blitz6804, for some really great work. He singlehandedly fixed the myriad errors on our roster (that I made), and made the corrections.

Kudos, blitz, for all of your help (not just with the roster)! I owe you much, and so does the Club.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
*sniff sniff* why did blitz get a title









See above. LOL

Don't worry, iandroo. I love you too.


----------



## iandroo888

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=345216

highest oc on fx-60 i can get..

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=345221

highest stable oc.

update accordingly. pick whichever one. lol.

wah i want a title >=[

*edit* wow 1300 posts already...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=345216

highest oc on fx-60 i can get..

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=345221

highest stable oc.

update accordingly. pick whichever one. lol.

wah i want a title >=[

:swearing:You just had to give me work to do, huh, iandroo? :swearing:








Just kidding. Updated your FX-60 link.









A title? Why? It's not just for bragging rights, man. Those things called titles carry with them tons of work to do.

Take pioneer, for instance. He has to fly down to SoCal monthly and clean my bedroom/workshop. Backbreaking work, that is. I had to negotiate that deal with froggy; thankfully, she saw things my way and allows pioneer to execute his duties as Club B(o)(o)b.

(Just kidding about pioneer. Sounded good, though, no?)


----------



## Blitz6804

Wait, so he is the Skt939 Maid? Can you send him my way? I have not vacuumed in a week or two and mopped in twice as long; the place could use a good cleaning! (^_^)

I thank Joe for the honor of titleship, but I think that proofreading will no longer be necessary since we discovered the issue that caused broken links in the first place.

Oh, and Joe: your newest link for iandroo888 is broken.

Just kiddin!


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
:swearing:You just had to give me work to do, huh, iandroo? :swearing:








Just kidding. Updated your FX-60 link.









A title? Why? It's not just for bragging rights, man. Those things called titles carry with them tons of work to do.

Take pioneer, for instance. He has to fly down to SoCal monthly and clean my bedroom/workshop. Backbreaking work, that is. I had to negotiate that deal with froggy; thankfully, she saw things my way and allows pioneer to execute his duties as Club B(o)(o)b.

(Just kidding about pioneer. Sounded good, though, no?)










hey pioneer.. how about driving up to vegas and cleaning my house too? only a 4 hr drive and will take u out to a buffet dinner!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Wait, so he is the Skt939 Maid? Can you send him my way? I have not vacuumed in a week or two and mopped in twice as long; the place could use a good cleaning! (^_^)

I thank Joe for the honor of titleship, but I think that proofreading will no longer be necessary since we discovered the issue that caused broken links in the first place.

Oh, and Joe: your newest link for iandroo888 is broken.

Just kiddin!











By the way, since you say proofreading is now unnecessary, I revoke your title.










Just kidding.


----------



## Oscuro

Looks like I need to clean up the cables in my case and enter the competition


----------



## iandroo888

nah. save the trouble. less competion = higher chance of winning something lol


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Oscuro*


Looks like I need to clean up the cables in my case and enter the competition










Please do!

Anything to decrease iandroo's chances of winning. Hehehehe









Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


nah. save the trouble. less competion = higher chance of winning something lol










Psst. See above.









Maybe I should amend the rules and allow judges to participate. That way my rigs have a shot of winning the whole shebang. I could always use another motherboard. Muhahahahaha

But really, the best reason is to make sure iandroo doesn't win.









(Being evil overlord of this domain is fun.)


----------



## Blitz6804

You know, I am starting to think that txtmstrjoe is not that altruistic...

Think SZayat can hook me up with a subzero avatar/profile pic so you and I are like the oil/vinegar, day/night, hot/cold, loud/louder that we are?


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Please do!

Anything to decrease iandroo's chances of winning. Hehehehe









Psst. See above.









Maybe I should amend the rules and allow judges to participate. That way my rigs have a shot of winning the whole shebang. I could always use another motherboard. Muhahahahaha

But really, the best reason is to make sure iandroo doesn't win.









(Being evil overlord of this domain is fun.)


evil









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


You know, I am starting to think that txtmstrjoe is not that altruistic...

Think SZayat can hook me up with a subzero avatar/profile pic so you and I are like the oil/vinegar, day/night, hot/cold, loud/louder that we are?


uh. lol?


----------



## Oscuro

Heh heh heh, crazy nutters.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


You know, I am starting to think that txtmstrjoe is not that altruistic...


Huh?

What?

Did "Evil Joe" get out of his bottle again?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Think SZayat can hook me up with a subzero avatar/profile pic so you and I are like the oil/vinegar, day/night, hot/cold, loud/louder that we are?


I don't know.







You gots to ask him.

By the way, I stole this Scorpion avatar from the intarwebz and cropped it. I'll keep an eye out for a Sub-Zero one for ye.

(I still say I need Sub-Zero in my bedroom. It's too dang hot in here!)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Oscuro*


Heh heh heh, crazy nutters.


We wish to educate, inform, enlighten, and entertain here.

Yo iandroo! It's your turn to dance, man!


----------



## iandroo888

lol im tryin to find a wall-mountable a/c unit. i need one on this room. for some reason, A/C does not get to this room. and this room is a lot hotter than any other place in the house. *shrugs*


----------



## Warrior1986

I haven't been on here in a long time, but some people might have remembered my huge thread back in late July.

I've got all the screenshots in the link below: CPU-Z, SuperPI, Fear. The link below it is to my 3dMark06 score. Man, I remember when I cracked 10k, that was a huge deal.
http://www.overclock.net/amd-cpus/21...-3dmark06.html
http://service.futuremark.com/result...eResultType=14


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I foresee a Mortal Kombat Kontest in here pretty soon with that avatar, iandroo!


----------



## Blitz6804

Wow, outstanding job Warrior1986! Cracking 10k with a non-SLI, Skt939 system is phenomenal!

I do not suppose you would be want to be shipping it my way...?

Oh... and in case anyone is wondering,

  
 



  



 
 !

I know its a little disturbing, but given my post, it was appropriate.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Please welcome our newest member, Warrior1986!

Most impressive, your thread detailing your achievements with that rig! Most impressive.









@ blitz: What the..?









Is that YOU?!?


----------



## Blitz6804

Uhm... no joe, that isn't me.

I can happily say that it is not.

But since I was post 1999, I figured it was appropriate.

Given this post, perhaps you'd like to hear


----------



## Warrior1986

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Please welcome our newest member, Warrior1986!

Most impressive, your thread detailing your achievements with that rig! Most impressive.









@ blitz: What the..?









Is that YOU?!?

Thanks. It was hard work and time very well spent.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Wow, outstanding job Warrior1986! Cracking 10k with a non-SLI, Skt939 system is phenomenal!

I do not suppose you would be want to be shipping it my way...?

Oh... and in case anyone is wondering, 



!

I know its a little disturbing, but given my post, it was appropriate.

Hah, thanks. I'd ship it to you for the right price, but for now, I'm very happy with my rig. I've had it now for over 2 years (since originally building it with a FX-55 and a 6800GT back in December of 2005) and the only upgrade I've done is changing to a X2 4400+ and to the 8800 GTS and it still smokes. It's quite possible that I'll get a 9800 GTX maybe around Christmas, and if I do, this system I'm forseeing will still be running strong until the end of 2009, maybe even the summer of 2010.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I love the way you think, Warrior!


----------



## Blitz6804

Ah well. It is past my bed time, and I have yet to a shower.

I blame Warrior1986's rig.

Anyway... I am going to try removing all ATI drivers and starting fresh, because this "BAD_POOL_HEADER" blue screen happening once daily is driving me buggy!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Anyway... I am going to try removing all ATI drivers and starting fresh, because this "BAD_POOL_HEADER" blue screen happening once daily is driving me buggy!

Blitz, do you have the Catalyst Control Panel Suite installed or just the display drivers? In my opinion the CCC is just a waste...I mean if your into adjusting "certain" settings then it's great but the display driver is fine. I believe the display driver offers less overhead too.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Nah man. I need CCC. Without CCC, I do not have access to ATI Overdrive. Furthermore, I like having all the controls at my fingertips.

GRAH! THIS FORUM IS LETHAL TO MY SLEEP HABITS!

(And to those I was talking to on AIM... that stupid blue screen took me out again.)


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz, what component are you overclocking with ATI Overdrive?


----------



## Blitz6804

The video card.

Strangely, now it is not reinstalling CCC. (>_<)


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Wow, outstanding job Warrior1986! Cracking 10k with a non-SLI, Skt939 system is phenomenal!

I do not suppose you would be want to be shipping it my way...?

Oh... and in case anyone is wondering, 



!

I know its a little disturbing, but given my post, it was appropriate.

w...t....f.....

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Please welcome our newest member, Warrior1986!

Most impressive, your thread detailing your achievements with that rig! Most impressive.









@ blitz: What the..?









Is that YOU?!?

i hope it isnt him...

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Uhm... no joe, that isn't me.

I can happily say that it is not.

But since I was post 1999, I figured it was appropriate.

Given this post, perhaps you'd like to hear 




haha >_> ....

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Ah well. It is past my bed time, and I have yet to a shower.

I blame Warrior1986's rig.

Anyway... I am going to try removing all ATI drivers and starting fresh, because this "BAD_POOL_HEADER" blue screen happening once daily is driving me buggy!

i blame the AGP! get a new board!


----------



## Warrior1986

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I love the way you think, Warrior!









Well, I'm trying to rationalize and put things in perspective since I'm starting law school in the fall and money will be extremely tight, so I'll no longer have the luxury of being able to upgrade freely.

While I know how powerful the Penryn/Wolfdale Core 2's are, I don't think I'm loosing out that much by not upgrading. And since I have PCI-Express, I can stay up to date with graphics cards, if need be. But for now my 8800 GTS is holding strong.

So if I follow Intel's roadmap and they stick to their schedule, when my hypothetical date rolls around, I'll be in line to upgrade to Sandy Bridge. That should be quite an upgrade.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Ah well. It is past my bed time, and I have yet to a shower.

I blame Warrior1986's rig.

Anyway... I am going to try removing all ATI drivers and starting fresh, because this "BAD_POOL_HEADER" blue screen happening once daily is driving me buggy!

My fault. Stop looking at my rig and get off the comp.


----------



## Blitz6804

Eh, in hindsight, I only have Civil Procedure and Contract Law tomorrow.

Who needs those anyway?

*Struggles with video card*


----------



## Warrior1986

Ahh, I see. You a 1L or 2L?


----------



## Blitz6804

1L. 4 more weeks and I will be a 2L.


----------



## Warrior1986

Congrats on getting through the hardest part. Any advice for a starting 1L?


----------



## Blitz6804

I have not finished yet. I still need to get through finals, which based on my grades so far, will be no easy task.

1) Read.
2) Read.
3) Read.
4) Do not waste too much time doing anything other than 1, 2, or 3.
5) Read.
6) Worship Socket 939.
7) Get all research and writing assignments done as soon as they are assigned.
8) Read some more.

I cannot stress how important it is to do all of the required reading.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Need your help guys. When you have the time.

The Orphan Works legislation

sorry for the off topic.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Need your help guys. When you have the time.

The Orphan Works legislation

sorry for the off topic.


No problem with the plug, Guardian.

I'll print this out at work (can't print anything out at home at the moment), and send it out to the appropriate party/parties.

That's bloody awful...


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


hey pioneer.. how about driving up to vegas and cleaning my house too? only a 4 hr drive and will take u out to a buffet dinner!










You wanna pay for the gas too????It's only $3.50 a gallon in our gas guzzler car....for that I would clean the house, you wouldnt wanna have him clean, its not to thorough....


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *froggy1986*


You wanna pay for the gas too????It's only $3.50 a gallon in our gas guzzler car....for that I would clean the house, you wouldnt wanna have him clean, its not to thorough....


what car u drive? and no im not paying for gas. ill pay for dinner tho. haha yah.. if his comp isnt too clean, cant imagine anything else being clean haha


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


what car u drive? and no im not paying for gas. ill pay for dinner tho. haha yah.. *if his comp isnt too clean, cant imagine anything else being clean* haha


Uh oh.

Them's fighting words...









j/k, guys.







Don't want fistfights in here.


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


what car u drive? and no im not paying for gas. ill pay for dinner tho. haha yah.. if his comp isnt too clean, cant imagine anything else being clean haha


I don't have a car, it would be his buick regal... and nah, I would rather just clean my own house and him take me to dinner, no offense...lol... I dont think there's anywhere that dinner would cost as much as the gas it would take just to get there, sounds to me like you would DEFF be getting the better end of that deal, by far. I know, for that, you can come here, get him, and have him for the night, make him do WHATEVER you want, maybe you will have better luck at that than I do.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *froggy1986*


I don't have a car, it would be his buick regal... and nah, I would rather just clean my own house and him take me to dinner, no offense...lol... I dont think there's anywhere that dinner would cost as much as the gas it would take just to get there, sounds to me like you would DEFF be getting the better end of that deal, by far. I know, for that, you can come here, get him, and have him for the night, make him do WHATEVER you want, maybe you will have better luck at that than I do.










Oh no...

Trying... so hard... to not...

LAUGH...


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *froggy1986*


I don't have a car, it would be his buick regal... and nah, I would rather just clean my own house and him take me to dinner, no offense...lol... I dont think there's anywhere that dinner would cost as much as the gas it would take just to get there, sounds to me like you would DEFF be getting the better end of that deal, by far. I know, for that, you can come here, get him, and have him for the night, make him do WHATEVER you want, maybe you will have better luck at that than I do.










ahahaha

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Oh no...

Trying... so hard... to not...

LAUGH...











forget that im already laughing hahaha


----------



## pioneerisloud

WOW, WHAT HAVE I MISSED WHILE I WAS AT WORK?

HMMM, LET ME RECAP:
Now I seem to be the 939 maid, ok...whatever!

And now my fiance is making me a classy hooker and pimping me out to iandroo!!! Well, I hope he tips well!


----------



## TwIsTeDbOi

Add me to the list. I currently don't have it in my possession as it's now my parent's(dad's) gaming computer, but I had an Opteron 165 @ 2.7. My profile will have all the stats to it.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


WOW, WHAT HAVE I MISSED WHILE I WAS AT WORK?

HMMM, LET ME RECAP:
Now I seem to be the 939 maid, ok...whatever!

And now my fiance is making me a classy hooker and pimping me out to iandroo!!! Well, I hope he tips well!


*throws quarters at him and occassional dollar bills*


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwIsTeDbOi*


Add me to the list. I currently don't have it in position as it's now my parent's(dad's) gaming computer, but I had an Opteron 165 @ 2.7.


You cannot be added to the list until myself, txtmstrjoe, or thlnk3r see's a CPUz validation or screenshot. You can either post it here, or PM it to any of the 3 of us. Once we see that, you'll most DEFINITELY be added to the list







. Thanks for joining in our fun!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


*throws quarters at him and occassional dollar bills*


You're too cheap! I can't be bought that easily!

EDIT: Only meant to quote Iandroo, lol.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

If TwIsTeDbOi wants to be added as a S939 Nostalgic (as he doesn't own his S939 rig anymore), that's also an option.









BTW, I didn't call you the Club Maid, pioneer. blitz did that.









Among the other things you missed: New additions to our roster; we now have two *law students* and two *SUB-ZERO*s in the Club.

But just one and only Scorpion. Muhahahaha


----------



## TwIsTeDbOi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


You cannot be added to the list until myself, txtmstrjoe, or thlnk3r see's a CPUz validation or screenshot. You can either post it here, or PM it to any of the 3 of us. Once we see that, you'll most DEFINITELY be added to the list







. Thanks for joining in our fun!


/stares at sig


----------



## Blitz6804

TwIsTeDbOi's Opty 165:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...TeDbOi/10k.jpg

The only reason Andrew has sub-zero up I think is to tick me off. Not touching that with a 10 foot pole.

(NOTE: This was simultaneously posted with TwIsTeDbOi)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Thank you, Sub-Zero blitz!

TwIsTeDbOi, you are now on our roster.









By the way, we can have two Sub-Zeros. There were two in MK, right? The elder and his younger brother.

I just forget which one was good, and which one was not...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwIsTeDbOi*


/stares at sig











Ummm, thanks? I suppose this must be a good thing coming from somebody with a quad core, G92, awesome 775 board, etc, etc, etc.....??

And if we have two sub zeros, can we run them in SLI for faster sub zeros (up to 2x faster)???


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Ummm, thanks? I suppose this must be a good thing coming from somebody with a quad core, G92, awesome 775 board, etc, etc, etc.....??


Relax, soldier.







Didn't harm nobody none.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


And if we have two sub zeros, can we run them in SLI for faster sub zeros (up to 2x faster)???


Only if they were based on the same GPU...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Relax, soldier.







Didn't harm nobody none.


What do you mean relax? I was just wondering why he was in awe over MY rig, over everyone elses here, lol. Especially since he's got what he's got







.

I am glad to see that even though you're running a VERY high end Intel machine, you still have love for your 939







. That's just more reason for me to love 939!


----------



## TwIsTeDbOi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Ummm, thanks? I suppose this must be a good thing coming from somebody with a quad core, G92, awesome 775 board, etc, etc, etc.....??

And if we have two sub zeros, can we run them in SLI for faster sub zeros (up to 2x faster)???


No, I meant my sig with the validation link(the proof smiley). I didn't mean my current rig.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Only if they were based on the same GPU...










Nope. He is a two-year newer, and less temperamental, model. As far as I have seen though, his typing bandwidth is lower, so newer is not always better.

*Chuckles*

Well, I finally got the Video card working right. I will be trying 3DMark again quick before bed, and then darn it, I am going to do so! I did two all-nighters this past week, and so far, I have a bad start to this new week, being 4 hours late and all.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwIsTeDbOi*


No, I meant my sig with the validation link(the proof smiley). I didn't mean my current rig.











I must say, I just looked over you 939 rig in your systems list. Quite nice







. I have GOTTA ask though, did that CCBBE get you to the magic 3.0GHz? Seems like you have / had the temperatures and voltages to spare to hit it.

I'd also like to make note, I LOVE the fact that you broke 10k with the 8800GT! It's making me want my new card to arrive even more now!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Alright, kiddies, Papa Scorpion needs his ugly sleep. Even undead specters like me need to shut down for the night occasionally.

Play nice, have fun, and do your homework for goodness' sake, Sub-Zero blitz!


----------



## TwIsTeDbOi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I must say, I just looked over you 939 rig in your systems list. Quite nice







. I have GOTTA ask though, did that CCBBE get you to the magic 3.0GHz? Seems like you have / had the temperatures and voltages to spare to hit it.

I'd also like to make note, I LOVE the fact that you broke 10k with the 8800GT! It's making me want my new card to arrive even more now!


No.







I unfortunately never did hit the magic number 3. I believe it was my motherboard though. The Abit AN8 was a rock solid stable board, but I think I was just hitting it's limits of 300 on the FSB. I tried almost the max voltage on my NB, I tried 1.4 on the vCore(which I knew wasn't needed because I've seen those CCBBE's hitting 3.0 with stock voltages), lowered my HT link all the way to 1x, had my RAM divider set all the way to 166MHz, everything. The board just would not POST past 305MHz.

As for the 8800GT. Hah, yeah. I ran benchmark after benchmark with that baby until I broke 10k. For some reason XP would cause my card to crash at 700MHz with my Abit AN8 and my Gigabyte DS3L with my quad so I left it at 675MHz.

I've ran it at 700MHz on this Vista rig and my DK LP with no problem and got 13.6k with Vista







. I think it was my POS Gigabyte DS3L though when I got my quad. Sorry, but when a mobo takes 4 tries to boot up windows on EVERYTHING STOCK, it's a POS IMO.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwIsTeDbOi*


No.







I unfortunately never did hit the magic number 3. I believe it was my motherboard though. The Abit AN8 was a rock solid stable board, but I think I was just hitting it's limits of 300 on the FSB. I tried almost the max voltage on my NB, I tried 1.4 on the vCore(which I knew wasn't needed becaus I've seen those CCBBE's hitting 3.0 with stock voltages), lowered my HT link all the way to 1x, had my RAM divider set all the way to 166MHz, everything. The board just would not POST past 305MHz.

As for the 8800GT. Hah, yeah. I ran benchmark after benchmark with that baby until I broke 10k. For some reason XP would cause my card to crash at 700MHz with my Abit AN8 and my Gigabyte DS3L so I left it at 675MHz.

I've ran it at 700MHz on this Vista rig and my DK LP with no problem. I think it was my POS Gigabyte DS3L though when I got my quad. Sorry, but when a mobo takes 4 tries to boot up windows on EVERYTHING STOCK, it's a POS IMO.


See, this is where I get slightly confused. I thought the CCBBE's were easy to get to 3.0GHz, but they usually required more volts (almost 1.50 in some cases)...whereas the newer bin chips (such as the LCBQE and LCB9E), were more notorious for hitting higher clocks on stock volts. I could be completely wrong on that since I've only tinkered with LCBxE chips myself.....and evidentally my chip is a "golden" chip.

And I'd have to agree with you on the Gigabyte board woes. If it takes 4 tries just to POST at stock settings, then yeah something's amiss. From what I read, you made the right choice going with the DFI over the Gigabyte







.


----------



## Blitz6804

Now I have a WHQL - FM Approved video card driver. However, I still only get 8950 and cannot make the results public. (It shows that I have a "generic VGA" and no RAM installed. In contact with Finland still on the issue.)

Good call on dropping the Gigabyte. Mine will only post up to 254 FSB no matter what any other setting is. Was it always like that? Perhaps you can look into RMAing the sucker?


----------



## TwIsTeDbOi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


See, this is where I get slightly confused. I thought the CCBBE's were easy to get to 3.0GHz, but they usually required more volts (almost 1.50 in some cases)...whereas the newer bin chips (such as the LCBQE and LCB9E), were more notorious for hitting higher clocks on stock volts. I could be completely wrong on that since I've only tinkered with LCBxE chips myself.....and evidentally my chip is a "golden" chip.

And I'd have to agree with you on the Gigabyte board woes. If it takes 4 tries just to POST at stock settings, then yeah something's amiss. From what I read, you made the right choice going with the DFI over the Gigabyte







.


In another thread some guy had his CCBBE running 3.0 at stock 1.35v. I asked him how he was doing it(I had mine running at 1.425 at the time) and he explained it to me(all his settings and what not). I eventually just said to hell with it, threw the vCore down to 1.35 and it booted, stable too.

Quote:



Good call on dropping the Gigabyte. Mine will only post up to 254 FSB no matter what any other setting is. Was it always like that? Perhaps you can look into RMAing the sucker?


Yeah it was. It did that dead stock when i first got it but thought "whatever". I could boot up 333MHz easily, but the vDroop was so bad it was pissing me off. The stock 1.275v was being reported as 1.23 in Speedfan and in the BIOS. Don't have that problem with the LanParty.









You know, I haven't decided if I want to sell it to someone on here(hopefully they'll have a better time with it), or if I should just RMA it and sell the new board or get a refund or what ever. Only problem is that my box and all the cables and whatnot are back home in Illinois. I'm in Cali right now.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


See, this is where I get slightly confused. I thought the CCBBE's were easy to get to 3.0GHz, but they usually required more volts (almost 1.50 in some cases)...whereas the newer bin chips (such as the LCBQE and LCB9E), were more notorious for hitting higher clocks on stock volts. I could be completely wrong on that since I've only tinkered with LCBxE chips myself.....and evidentally my chip is a "golden" chip.


It's all a gamble, this stepping business.







No real guarantees in this game.


----------



## iandroo888

@ pioneerisloud : yes u can be bought that easily *waves a piece of porterhouse steak* LOL

did txtmstrjoe just call himself papa scorpion... -.-"

@ twistedboi. yeah i have a ccbbe 0617fpmw.. supposed to be one of the best to break 3 but it wouldnt. ESPECIALLY at stock voltages. i have my opty at 1.4625 vcore to have it at 2943MHz. really depressing but oh well. still a great oc either way.

yeah lots of people said CCBBE were easy to get to 3. but ever since i got mine, i havent seen many ppl break 3 with it. if i win the club case management contest. im going to give it another shot with my opty and fx-60. see if i can pull any higher and seeing if DFI really is that good =P sux that i would need to learn that bios. maybe could get some help form a friend. he has the higher end dfi 939 board. supposidely the one being offered as a reward is 1 lower. *shrugs* but either way its a dfi and will see if it proves its greatness if i can have a chance at playing with one...

i dont have a cooler thats good enough to cool my chip so this is probably the wall i have to settle at. unless i can get the money to get a TRUE and a nice fan, i dont think i can go any higher. average investment for a TRUE is like.. 65 - 75 bux right? 55 for heatsink, 10 for fan... 5-10 for shipping. *sigh* wonder if a true is really worth it








too bad no one has a hyper tx2 and a true to compare haha

*edit*

lol maybe i should try just dropping it to 1.35 and tryin to get 3.0 rofl. i think i have tried it b4 tho


----------



## txtmstrjoe

You can send me your Hyper TX2, and I'll run tests with it and my Ultra 120 Extreme if you want, iandroo.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


You can send me your Hyper TX2, and I'll run tests with it and my Ultra 120 Extreme if you want, iandroo.










can u do it the otehr way around? i wanna play with a TRUE







never seen one IRL b4...

*edit*

what i really want to do is get some thermalright chipset/mosfet heatsinks and replace the heatpipe system on teh a8n32-sli and get a true. how well u think that would do?


----------



## TwIsTeDbOi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


@ twistedboi. yeah i have a ccbbe 0617fpmw.. supposed to be one of the best to break 3 but it wouldnt. ESPECIALLY at stock voltages. i have my opty at 1.4625 vcore to have it at 2943MHz. really depressing but oh well. still a great oc either way.

yeah lots of people said CCBBE were easy to get to 3. but ever since i got mine, i havent seen many ppl break 3 with it. if i win the club case management contest. im going to give it another shot with my opty and fx-60. see if i can pull any higher and seeing if DFI really is that good =P sux that i would need to learn that bios. maybe could get some help form a friend. he has the higher end dfi 939 board. supposidely the one being offered as a reward is 1 lower. *shrugs* but either way its a dfi and will see if it proves its greatness if i can have a chance at playing with one...

i dont have a cooler thats good enough to cool my chip so this is probably the wall i have to settle at. unless i can get the money to get a TRUE and a nice fan, i dont think i can go any higher. average investment for a TRUE is like.. 65 - 75 bux right? 55 for heatsink, 10 for fan... 5-10 for shipping. *sigh* wonder if a true is really worth it







too bad no one has a hyper tx2 and a true to compare haha

*edit*

lol maybe i should try just dropping it to 1.35 and tryin to get 3.0 rofl. i think i have tried it b4 tho


Hell, I still haven't figured out what half the settings do in my quad's BIOS. I see FSB? I raise it. CPU VTT? Raise it if needed. NB voltage? Raise it if needed, lol. OC'ing an Intel is a whole different beast than an AMD. But DFI boards are the shizzam. I'm loving this one.

Yeah, I payed around $105 for my TRUE but it was with ArctiClean and next day delivery, so yeah, around 75 bucks. Just be wary though, the clips it comes with to hold the fan on are pieces of crap. I couldn't figure them out so my fan is being held on by fan wire tied together.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I just spoke to my Ultra 120 Extreme; she does not like being referred to by that ridiculous nickname.









To be honest with you, I've got reasons to not recommend it, or any other tower-style heatsink for that matter (which blow their air parallel to the motherboard plane). Unless you take special steps to cool the components surrounding the CPU socket, I think there's a flaw in the fundamental design of most tower-style HSFs which may lead to premature motherboard failure.

(Free plug time) Check out the OCN blog section; my sig has a link to mine.







Check out the entry on Addressing Compromises in Design for more details.

I need a Sub-Zero in my bedroom. It's too dang hot to sleep!


----------



## iandroo888

i need an a/c unit in my comp room. my bed room is fine lol.

well its either blowing across the board or blow at the board. unless u flip the fan around and pull heat away from heatsink and out? wonder if taht would work... need a good high cfm fan tho

sowwie ms. thermalright ultra-120 extreme!


----------



## froggy1986

UPDATE: 8600 SLI is officially installed. We will see how the temps go though, I'm currently having some issues with my temps so we will see. I just reseated my cooler and the temps are still crazy. BTW my pic's in the contest will soon be updated. I just cleaned it all up as best as I could, and now that sli is installed it looks a bit differant.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Ok that's what I got while messing around in the bios, 2,4ghz solid stable. Can't hit 2.6ghz though, mobo drops multiplier at 10x after passing 221 fsb??? There are too many options to mess with (NB, SB, PegLink mode) and I think I better wait for that tr ultra 120 to arrive first! I'm gonna post my case in the contest also and beware cause I might light up my CCFLs


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


Ok that's what I got while messing around in the bios, 2,4ghz solid stable. Can't hit 2.6ghz though, mobo drops multiplier at 10x after passing 221 fsb??? There are too many options to mess with (NB, SB, PegLink mode) and I think I better wait for that tr ultra 120 to arrive first! I'm gonna post my case in the contest also and beware cause I might light up my CCFLs










MikeV, make sure your processor multiplier is manually set and not on 'AUTO'. The PEGLINK settings are related to your graphics card. You shouldn't have to worry about those.

That's a nice board you have there









Good luck


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


MikeV, make sure your processor multiplier is manually set and not on 'AUTO'. The PEGLINK settings are related to your graphics card. You shouldn't have to worry about those.

That's a nice board you have there









Good luck


Thanks mate. I thought that the CPU multiplier was locked at x11 but it seems that it drops down as I raise the FSB. The thing is that I can't find any option considering the multiplier in the BIOS so I can set it in manual mode







Any suggestions on that??


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *froggy1986*


UPDATE: 8600 SLI is officially installed. We will see how the temps go though, I'm currently having some issues with my temps so we will see. I just reseated my cooler and the temps are still crazy. BTW my pic's in the contest will soon be updated. I just cleaned it all up as best as I could, and now that sli is installed it looks a bit differant.


----------



## boonie2

Quick question ? how many reps do you need to post in for sale section?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


Quick question ? how many reps do you need to post in for sale section?



if I'm not mistaken,I believe it's 40-50 reps


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


Quick question ? how many reps do you need to post in for sale section?


35+ reps <<<click for rules

If you are just replying, then u don't have to have the 35, only to start a new thread in those sections.


----------



## boonie2

thanks


----------



## iandroo888

the 4200+ shouldnt do too bad. i got mine to 2.64 stable. disable peglink. doesnt really do much lol. the a8n32-sli should be able to hit around 340 FSB. so u can possibly go for a higher fsb and lower multiplier. try all possibilities. some will boot. some wont. some might even be stable who knows. good luck !


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
Thanks mate. I thought that the CPU multiplier was locked at x11 but it seems that it drops down as I raise the FSB. The thing is that I can't find any option considering the multiplier in the BIOS so I can set it in manual mode








Any suggestions on that??

MikeV, according to the manual, 'Processor Frequency Multiplier' is what you need to change. Strange though is only lists values starting at 8x to 10x. Either way as long as it's set to a number it should lock it in. Not sure why it's automatically changing it. Make sure Cool'n'Quiet is disabled and also make sure anything that is related to "thermal throttling" is also disabled.

Good luck


----------



## iandroo888

change the VID thing to manual. that will show where the processor frequecy multiplier and voltage. should go from 6x to max multiplier. thats what mine did anyway. also, AMD does not like non integer numbers so no .5 multipliers. =P


----------



## shinji2k

Sign me up








http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=345682


----------



## soundx98

I'm in

http://premium1.uploadit.org/soundx98//OCDB.JPG


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Please welcome our two newest members: shinji2k and soundx98!

These guys are quick, too. They've posted entries in our Club-exclusive Case Management Contest.









Bravo to both of you! Hope you enjoy your time with us here.


----------



## diblaz

AND ITS STILL TICKING.....MY OTHER IS A GIGABYTE KN8-SLI W/ 3700 PROCESSOR AND DUAL 7600GT BOTH ANTEC 900 CASES..BOTH ABLE TO KICK BUT IN BF2


----------



## iandroo888

i just saw those posts. i was like. nooo


----------



## froggy1986

Welcome our two newest, nice additions to the contest too.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Wow, MORE new members! Here's a very warm welcome from the club boob!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Welcome, diblaz, to our Club!










In case you're not aware, the Club-exclusive Case Management Contest is going on right now. As a member of our Club you are eligible to enter and win. We've had quite a few entries posted in the contest the last several days, but to make this even more awesome than it already is we need even more entries!

More entries, more competition, more fun!









So take your shots, and take your shot at winning!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Agreed....WE NEED MOAR ENTRIES!!!


----------



## iandroo888

nooo dont enter


----------



## Blitz6804

I NEED A BETTER CAMERA!

Iandroo888 proposed I take a shot with the case off. Instead, I removed the door, shut off the CCFLs, put a big frigging backlight on it, and this is what resulted:










Note: this is not part of the contest entry, hence why it is not posted there. Judges, avert your eyes: do not count it as a picture.

I also decided to tweak with some of the settings; picture colors are now actually fairly accurate, as you can see with the pre-tweak shot:










Note: This is also not part of the contest. Judges, gouge out your eyes please and bleach your synapses.


----------



## iandroo888

it would probably hurt u more to not use this picture. ur other pictures are so dark. its like ur tryin to hide something.


----------



## Blitz6804

All the LEDs/CCFLs make it impossible for the camera to pick up anything. Maybe I'll try tomorrow.

If I am less lazy.


----------



## Oscuro

Hmmm...
In my quest to get better performance out of my Noctua HS, I am looking at possibly getting a pair of these and hooking them up to a fan controller.

The Noctua accepts only open frame fans via the stock clips...otherwise I probably would go with some Sanyo Denki's....

Any thoughts?


----------



## thlnk3r

Welcome shinji2k and soundx98


----------



## iandroo888

@ blitz - told ya to turn ur comp off and take the picture lol. also change iso and putting camera on a stable surface helps too!

@ oscuro - i was thinking of getting those too. either way i still need another fan controller. more like 2. need one for server too haha


----------



## Oscuro

....*stares* Bloody....SHIPPING!

$50.08 for two fans and three 12" extensions?!
Arrrrgh


----------



## iandroo888

whoa.. jab tech is only like 10 bux each fan + like 8 shipping... extensions probalby like 1 dollar each.. so like 30 ish


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Oscuro* 
Hmmm...
In my quest to get better performance out of my Noctua HS, I am looking at possibly getting a pair of these and hooking them up to a fan controller.

The Noctua accepts only open frame fans via the stock clips...otherwise I probably would go with some Sanyo Denki's....

Any thoughts?

What is an open frame fan? Those Deltas look powerful but also noiseful (47dba







). You could check maybe on something like these.


----------



## boonie2

It began as a slow rumble , a small band of renegade , antique , outdated motherboards......And grew into a force known the world over as "THE 939ers"..............














WELCOME NEW MEMBERS


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
change the VID thing to manual. that will show where the processor frequecy multiplier and voltage. should go from 6x to max multiplier. thats what mine did anyway. also, AMD does not like non integer numbers so no .5 multipliers. =P

There is indeed a VID option but it's grayed out and I can't changed it









Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
MikeV, according to the manual, 'Processor Frequency Multiplier' is what you need to change. Strange though is only lists values starting at 8x to 10x. Either way as long as it's set to a number it should lock it in. Not sure why it's automatically changing it. Make sure Cool'n'Quiet is disabled and also make sure anything that is related to "thermal throttling" is also disabled.

I also tried disabling CnQ but no luck at all. I can't find that multiplier option anywhere







I'll post some screens of my bios later on for you to see also.. I'm starting to get really disappointed here


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
What is an open frame fan? Those Deltas look powerful but also noiseful (47dba







). You could check maybe on something like these.

An open frame fan is one which has its frame corners "unsealed." "Sealed" frame corners prevent easy attachment of the typical wire clips, as used by heatsinks such as most (if not all) Thermalrights and the Noctua NH-U12F/NH-U12P.

@ Oscuro: Incidentally, I run the 120mm version of that Delta Tri-Blade. Massive RPMs and CFM, and therefore noise. I'd invest in a fan controller.









I would rather have quieter fans in my sig rig, but since my bedroom is a sauna (especially in the summer), I need as much fan power as possible.

(Good thing I have excellent headphones as well.)


----------



## Oscuro

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
What is an open frame fan? Those Deltas look powerful but also noiseful (47dba







). You could check maybe on something like these.

I have looked into them, and read up on them.
And in tests and comparisons, it has been found that Silenx completely fakes their specs to make their product look better than how it actually performs. Which, is pretty sad of a manufacturer to do, especially when they cost so bloody much for fans.

I'll try to dig up links hen I get home from work tonight.

And Joe, of course I'd be using a controller! I usually have my computer practically right beside me....so having a screaming wind tunnel next to me all the time....would drive me nuts...


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
change the VID thing to manual. that will show where the processor frequecy multiplier and voltage. should go from 6x to max multiplier. thats what mine did anyway. also, AMD does not like non integer numbers so no .5 multipliers. =P

Special thanks man! I just upgraded my bios version to the newest stable and got able to switch the VID thing into manual! So I got it running @2.640








So happy now! I won't leave this setting 24/7 though.. I'd better wait for the new HSF to come cause I'm on stock cooling now.. Does anyone know why the core temp app reports different value of core temps than the PC Probe?? Is the value of PC Probe the mean value of the two cores of core temps? And another thing I can't understand is, at CPU-Z under the tab Memory the DRAM Frequency reads 220MHz but under the tab of SPD for the first slot it reads 200Mhz. The 200Mhz is the nominal manufacturer value? And I have set a limit of 183Mhz for DRAM Freq in the BIOS, so how can it be 220Mhz??? There is no DRAM/FSB divider option in the BIOS so I figured out I should just limit the DRAM Freq to a specific freq instead, is that right?


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
@ blitz - told ya to turn ur comp off and take the picture lol. also change iso and putting camera on a stable surface helps too!

There is no "iso" setting. This is a webcam remember? I have exposure turned to its maximum and it is sitting on my desk when I do it. Yes, it boils down to I need to do it with the computer off and the room baked in light.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Oscuro* 
....*stares* Bloody....SHIPPING!

$50.08 for two fans and three 12" extensions?!
Arrrrgh

I take it they are killing you because you are from Canada? Does a Canadian company carry it?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
Special thanks man! I just upgraded my bios version to the newest stable and got able to switch the VID thing into manual! So I got it running @2.640







So happy now! I won't leave this setting 24/7 though.. I'd better wait for the new HSF to come cause I'm on stock cooling now.. Does anyone know why the core temp app reports different value of core temps than the PC Probe?? Is the value of PC Probe the mean value of the two cores of core temps? And another thing I can't understand is, at CPU-Z under the tab Memory the DRAM Frequency reads 220MHz but under the tab of SPD for the first slot it reads 200Mhz. The 200Mhz is the nominal manufacturer value? And I have set a limit of 183Mhz for DRAM Freq in the BIOS, so how can it be 220Mhz??? There is no DRAM/FSB divider option in the BIOS so I figured out I should just limit the DRAM Freq to a specific freq instead, is that right?

The temperature differences are whether the probe in question measures Core temp or Die temp. Your RAM is set to 200:183, or, 12 / 11. Thus, RAM = 240 * 183 / 200 = 220 (Or, 240 * 11 / 12 = 220).

If you actually want 200, set the RAM to 166 (6 / 5). Thus, 240 * 166 / 200 = 199. That is as close as you can get to DDR 400 without making the CPU FSB a fuzz faster.

Hope that helps!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well fine, if nobody else is gonna say it, I will. Happy birthday to me!

For my birthday I am awaiting my 8800GTS 512MB, Samsung SATA Burner, and Logitech Momo Racing wheel (all should arrive SOMETIME today). I also went down to Best Buy and bought 2 copies of Crysis, and a copy of Race 07. So anybody that wants to race against me (cough txtmstrjoe cough), can do so with ease now







.


----------



## Blitz6804

Happy Birthday!

It must suck for your birthday to line up on tax day, but if you file your returns back in February, you can get your refund today.

Why two copies of Crysis? You sending one my way for my birthday next month?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Happy Birthday!

It must suck for your birthday to line up on tax day, but if you file your returns back in February, you can get your refund today.

Why two copies of Crysis? You sending one my way for my birthday next month?

I bought one copy for myself, the other is for Froggie so we can both play online together. And I bought Race07 so SOME PEOPLE THAT HAVE BEEN BUGGING ME can play with me online with that game.

EDIT:
Thank you Blitz for wishing me a happy birthday! And no, it doesn't suck too badly, I got my tax refund like a month ago....good ol filing online and getting it direct deposit into my bank







.


----------



## soundx98

Happy Birthday pioneerisloud!
May you have many more.


----------



## iandroo888

hey! i already wished u a happy bday last nite! happy b-day again tho.

haha i asked the same question about the two copies of crysis. o well. hmmm.... im wondering if i should get a TRUE now. temps are getting high due to weather geting a bit warmer. had to downclock a little


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hey, I wished you happy birthday too, you goof! It's in the Milestones section.









Awww... you're too good of a beau. I thought that second copy of Crysis was for ME (just like Sub-Zero did); my birthday's in very early May.


----------



## RAMDAC

*Opteron 185*

Hitting 3GHz+ with the 10.0x Multi










with the 9.5x Multi










and the 9.0x Multi


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Well fine, if nobody else is gonna say it, I will. Happy birthday to me!

For my birthday I am awaiting my 8800GTS 512MB, Samsung SATA Burner, and Logitech Momo Racing wheel (all should arrive SOMETIME today). I also went down to Best Buy and bought 2 copies of Crysis, and a copy of Race 07. So anybody that wants to race against me (cough txtmstrjoe cough), can do so with ease now







.

Happy birthday man! Wish you the best! Isn't 8800GTS 512 a damn pretty nice card? I'm hitting one xfx alpha dog edition also at the end of the month







Happy birthday and happy gamin'!


----------



## Blitz6804

RAMDAC, dude... 1.568 V? That takes some stones!

How stable is she? Can you Orthos for 12+ hours?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Even if you can't run Orthos for 12 hours, 3.0GHz on a 185 is quite impressive! Great job!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Well fine, if nobody else is gonna say it, I will. Happy birthday to me!

For my birthday I am awaiting my 8800GTS 512MB, Samsung SATA Burner, and Logitech Momo Racing wheel (all should arrive SOMETIME today). I also went down to Best Buy and bought 2 copies of Crysis, and a copy of Race 07. So anybody that wants to race against me (cough txtmstrjoe cough), can do so with ease now







.


Happy Birthday dude









I hope you enjoy your new toys hehe


----------



## txtmstrjoe

RAMDAC is our newest member!







Welcome!

Awesome job on that Opteron 185! What kind of cooling do you run with it? And what stepping is the chip from?


----------



## thlnk3r

Welcome RAMDAC to the thread


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Happy Birthday dude









I hope you enjoy your new toys hehe


lol thats if fedex brings it to him haha.. i talked to him about an hour or so ago, he hasnt got it yet.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


lol thats if fedex brings it to him haha.. i talked to him about an hour or so ago, he hasnt got it yet.


Oh, good!

FedEx is complying with my wishes. Hehehe


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


lol thats if fedex brings it to him haha.. i talked to him about an hour or so ago, he hasnt got it yet.


Iandroo, that's because the truck was hijacked


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Iandroo, that's because the truck was hijacked










Oh, this is getting gooderer!

FedEx initiating a cover-up story on their own, eh?

Sweeeeeeeeeet...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Haha, you guys hijacked the wrong truck!!! Its UPS that's bringing my goodies. They will be arriving by standard UPS garanteed 3 day shipping....and its out for delivery right now according to my tracking. Pics will be coming sometime tonight I'm sure. Unless I don't get any packages today







. In that case I'll be contacting newegg to get things straightened out...they'll be owing me a rebate







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Haha, you guys hijacked the wrong truck!!! Its UPS that's bringing my goodies. They will be arriving by standard UPS garanteed 3 day shipping....and its out for delivery right now according to my tracking. Pics will be coming sometime tonight I'm sure. Unless I don't get any packages today







. In that case I'll be contacting newegg to get things straightened out...they'll be owing me a rebate







.


What the..?!?









thlnk3r! Who did you hire for that hijacking job?

I want a refund pronto, man!


----------



## iandroo888

he just got the parts. heading out for dinner. gonna be a dick and assemble (WITH PICTURES).

i think a roadtrip to yakima is at hand. time to pay a visit to mr pio.


----------



## Blitz6804

I think he does not deserve the parts. He too just told me he was going to Red Robin BEFORE installing them. Lame...

In other news, I am sorta not fully here tonight as I continue cooking my famous chili con carne with, uhm, *counts* five different types of chilies. Anybody can make such a field of chilies spicy, but it takes skill to make it fruity! That is why I am Iron Chef Socket 939, Esq. Anyway, I will divulge the recipe if anyone really wants it, but for now, I have to start chopping onion (I am done macing myself).


----------



## boonie2

sorry guyz I was on track to snag the truck , then i spotted the Budwieser clydesdales and couldnt help myself , on his roof now with 2-12pks ready to pounce


----------



## Oscuro

Need to start hunting for a canadian company that might stock odd fans..
Welcome RAMDAC
Happy Birthday Pioneer.
Uh....I think I got it all there...


----------



## RAMDAC

@ all:

Thank You for the welcome notes, I appreciate it much.



















The Opti is an E6 stepping and runs usually underclocked (cool'n'quiet) at 5x 200MHz with a Vcore of 1.07v, the Vdimm at 2.55v and cooled with the Zalman CNPS9700 @ 938rpm.










Sometimes the Opti needs more, so I give her what she wants, max. 2,9GHz for a 24/7 setting. At 2900MHz (10x 290) the CPU needs only 1.36 Vcore, CNPS9700 @ 1330rpm, same idle temperatures as stock speed with the CNPS9700 @ 1075rpm. (ca. 86Â°F / 30Â°C)
But as soon as I go higher than 2,9GHz, I'll need to increase the voltage up to 1.5v (for Prime stable), so the 3+ GHz were adjusted just for a few benchmarks but it was stable during the entire time (ca. 5 - 6 hours).

Punishing the CPU with a 12 hours torture, would be unfair, as this baby never disappointed me.









This weekend (perhaps before) I'll test my two HD3870 X2 with the Opti @ 3.0GHz (Vcore 1.6v) but again, just for a short period of time, just for an attempt of breaking my own 3DMark 06 score of 12003 points.









Socket 939 lives on!!!

Greetings!


----------



## Blitz6804

Finally! Someone else who runs Cool-n-Quiet!

*Fluffles*


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Most impressive, RAMDAC.









blitz: What be der *Fluffles*?


----------



## Blitz6804

It is sorta like a "glump," but with a bit of spooning tossed in. Completely a web-based term. I am entirely straight.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Glump?

(Goes to urbandictionary.com...)

OH.


----------



## Blitz6804

Uhm... thats a bad idea. To set the record straight, a glump is a flying tackle that results in a hug. Used often in Anime and Manga.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hehe

Gotcha, chief.









Ooh. Flying tackle. That I like.

Especially at someone's knees. Muhahahahaha


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I think he does not deserve the parts. He too just told me he was going to Red Robin BEFORE installing them. Lame...

In other news, I am sorta not fully here tonight as I continue cooking my famous chili con carne with, uhm, *counts* five different types of chilies. Anybody can make such a field of chilies spicy, but it takes skill to make it fruity! That is why I am Iron Chef Socket 939, Esq. Anyway, I will divulge the recipe if anyone really wants it, but for now, I have to start chopping onion (I am done macing myself).


HEY! im the iron chef!







*cries* i hate you! u stole my suggestion/title







i hate you ! i ****** hate you wahhh *goes to eat sushi*

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


sorry guyz I was on track to snag the truck , then i spotted the Budwieser clydesdales and couldnt help myself , on his roof now with 2-12pks ready to pounce


forgiven! too bad no newcastle truck =P

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Hehe

Gotcha, chief.









Ooh. Flying tackle. That I like.

Especially at someone's knees. Muhahahahaha


O_O


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


he just got the parts. heading out for dinner. gonna be a dick and assemble (WITH PICTURES).

i think a roadtrip to yakima is at hand. time to pay a visit to mr pio.


hmmm....since ur taking a road trip to attempt to take our goodies, does that mean your gonna clean OUR house while your here????


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


HEY! im the iron chef!







*cries* i hate you! u stole my suggestion/title







i hate you ! i ****** hate you wahhh *goes to eat sushi*


No, you are "Gourmet" or "Chef." I am Iron Chef Socket 939, Esquire. There is a quantum distinction there I know, but a distinction none the less.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *froggy1986*


hmmm....since ur taking a road trip to attempt to take our goodies, does that mean your gonna clean OUR house while your here????


Aww snap son! *Gets iandroo888 an apron.*


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Finally! Someone else who runs Cool-n-Quiet!

*Fluffles*


Ok, two things with that quote:
1: I run Cool N' Quiet on my HTPC rig which is overclocked and undervolted. So you're not the only one







.
2: Fluffles???????

And on a side note, yes all packages arrived safely!!!!!







. I'm starting my log now. I probably won't get a chance to format tonight as I have to work tomorrow morning. However Thursday night I will be formatting and doing some bench work! So check out my thread (will be soon popping up within this hour) in the AMD General section here at OCN. I won't start it till I have some pictures to produce







. Can't wait to see what this baby can do.

*txtmstrjoe:*
You need to hit me up on Yahoo here soon (after I get the card and wheel installed)...I'm up for some Race07, are you?


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


So check out my thread (will be soon popping up within this hour) in the AMD General section here at OCN.


You'll link us of course? And I do not think txtmstrjoe ever logs into Yahoo! Instant Mess anger; unless he has me blocked... hm...


----------



## GuardianOdin

Happy Birfday pioneerisloud!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


You'll link us of course? And I do not think txtmstrjoe ever logs into Yahoo! Instant Mess anger; unless he has me blocked... hm...


Of course I'll link you guys! What kind of animal do you think I am? And yeah I know....txtmstrjoe NEVER seems to be on Yahoo anymore







. But he better be if he wants to laugh at me ATTEMPTING to race with my new wheel. He's been wanting me to play that game with him for weeks now....so he better be up for the challenge!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Happy Birfday pioneerisloud!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


THANK YOU GUARDIAN!!!!!! Everybody's so nice to the head boob of the club here.....guess its because everybody likes a nice set of boobs! Maybe that's why I only get half the attention I want....because I'm only one boob. Meh, oh well.

Alright...now I'm SERIOUSLY off for now to take some pictures and get this all setup. I'll be back within an hour (hopefully) to post all the pictures and hopefully be able to game!


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *froggy1986*


hmmm....since ur taking a road trip to attempt to take our goodies, does that mean your gonna clean OUR house while your here????


clean your house for free stuff. sure why not. i think its worth it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


No, you are "Gourmet" or "Chef." I am Iron Chef Socket 939, Esquire. There is a quantum distinction there I know, but a distinction none the less.

Aww snap son! *Gets iandroo888 an apron.*


i suggested iron chef







*pulls out butcher knife and runs after blitz*



















































Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Ok, two things with that quote:
1: I run Cool N' Quiet on my HTPC rig which is overclocked and undervolted. So you're not the only one







.
2: Fluffles???????

And on a side note, yes all packages arrived safely!!!!!







. I'm starting my log now. I probably won't get a chance to format tonight as I have to work tomorrow morning. However Thursday night I will be formatting and doing some bench work! So check out my thread (will be soon popping up within this hour) in the AMD General section here at OCN. I won't start it till I have some pictures to produce








. Can't wait to see what this baby can do.

*txtmstrjoe:*
You need to hit me up on Yahoo here soon (after I get the card and wheel installed)...I'm up for some Race07, are you?


heres the beginning of pio's bragging posts =D lol

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Of course I'll link you guys! *What kind of animal do you think I am?* And yeah I know....txtmstrjoe NEVER seems to be on Yahoo anymore







. But he better be if he wants to laugh at me ATTEMPTING to race with my new wheel. He's been wanting me to play that game with him for weeks now....so he better be up for the challenge!

THANK YOU GUARDIAN!!!!!! Everybody's so nice to the head boob of the club here.....guess its because everybody likes a nice set of boobs! Maybe that's why I only get half the attention I want....because I'm only one boob. Meh, oh well.

Alright...now I'm SERIOUSLY off for now to take some pictures and get this all setup. I'll be back within an hour (hopefully) to post all the pictures and hopefully be able to game!


i think thats an understatement.


----------



## froggy1986

iandroo....Did u not read where I said ATTEMPT???? We would be more than happy to give u some free stuff though,theres leftover dinner, and a full drawer of cd drives/burners, if u clean our place your more than welcome to have it, I don't mind sharing.


----------



## iandroo888

hmm.. sounds good.. and ill ATTEMPT also =P *drugs both of u and casually takes everything*

iandroo888 (7:03:30 PM): you're an idiot too
iandroo888 (7:03:31 PM): well
iandroo888 (7:03:35 PM): jerk actually
iandroo888 (7:03:40 PM): jackin my "iron chef"
iandroo888 (7:03:41 PM): 
Blitz6804 (7:03:43 PM): lol
Blitz6804 (7:03:51 PM): I looked... I didn't see where you mentioned it
Blitz6804 (7:04:11 PM): 'sides... its "Iron Chef Socket 939, Esquire"
Blitz6804 (7:04:24 PM): you'd be "Iron Chef Opty"?
Blitz6804 (7:04:45 PM): "Iron Chef nVidia"?
Blitz6804 (7:04:55 PM): serving up tasty ATI/Intel rigs for dinner
Blitz6804 (7:04:55 PM): lol
iandroo888 (7:05:22 PM): -.-"
iandroo888 (7:05:34 PM): ur not the iron chef skt 939 either
iandroo888 (7:05:39 PM): u only have 1 skt 939
iandroo888 (7:05:40 PM): =P
Blitz6804 (7:05:45 PM): so? lol
Blitz6804 (7:05:53 PM): I can cook with the best of 'em lol
iandroo888 (7:06:15 PM): who knows if u can cook
iandroo888 (7:06:17 PM): no pictures
iandroo888 (7:06:18 PM): no video
iandroo888 (7:06:25 PM): no one tried it that we know
Blitz6804 (7:06:26 PM): haha
Blitz6804 (7:06:42 PM): thats it... get your butt on the plane now
Blitz6804 (7:06:45 PM): right this second
iandroo888 (7:06:45 PM): for all that it is worth.. u could just be doin tv dinners
iandroo888 (7:06:46 PM): lol
Blitz6804 (7:06:59 PM): you are getting over here and having some food, watching my rig bench lol
iandroo888 (7:07:21 PM): thats not worth a $500 plane ticket..

haha.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


You'll link us of course? And I do not think txtmstrjoe ever logs into Yahoo! Instant Mess anger; unless he has me blocked... hm...


Naw. Don't have you blocked, blitz. The truth is, I have Yahoo IM on my office rig, but that machine's offline because the desk on which it's placed broke its casters. :swearing: Seriously, how many times have you seen something like that happen?!?

For the record, I'm on my gaming machine right now, and I try to only have the essentials loaded onto this thing.









I think it's hilarious we have two chefs and two Sub-Zeros and two law students!

But thank goodness we have just the one and only pioneer.









By the way, man, I'm up for racing! Lemme know when, and we'll set it up. I've never raced anyone online, and I haven't even played Race07 in months.







Been playing one of the most taxing games ever:

SimCity4 Rush Hour.

(Thanks a lot for feeding my addictive personality, thlnk3r.) :swearing:


----------



## iandroo888

we must compete against eachother to see who will reign supreme!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


we must compete against eachother to see who will reign supreme!


You talkin' to me?


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, SimCity4 Rush Hour is fun. I am the first to admit I am a Maxis slave: I own pretty much every game they have made. Personally, the one I was best at was "SimCity" on the Super Nintendo. I have a megalopolis after multiple attempts at playing on-and-off the past 12 years. Finally, while in undergrad, I pulled it off! All prior attempts stalled at around 250k, but this one... oh no... this one went to about 580k with more room to grow!

What is Race07? I have not heard of it.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Yeah, SimCity4 Rush Hour is fun. I am the first to admit I am a Maxis slave: I own pretty much every game they have made. Personally, the one I was best at was "SimCity" on the Super Nintendo. I have a megalopolis after multiple attempts at playing on-and-off the past 12 years. Finally, while in undergrad, I pulled it off! All prior attempts stalled at around 250k, but this one... oh no... this one went to about 580k with more room to grow!

What is Race07? I have not heard of it.


I've had maybe two or three iterations of "Opteron City" already, and have razed a couple of them down (due to their iniquities and their utter lack of fiscal responsibility). Stupid mayor...

Oh wait. I was the mayor... nvm...

Race 07 is a fairly good racing simulator. It's not my favorite, but it's pretty good nonetheless. Most BestBuy stores have it for $20.00.


----------



## Blitz6804

Ah, I see. I get all my simulation racing needs filled by Gran Tourismo (with Logitech GT Pro wheel unless I am mistaken) and my arcade racing needs filled by either Burnout Paradise or Ridge Racer 7 depending on my fancy.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Update everyone!

The card is now installed and I have the pictures taken thus far. However I am not going to post till I am done....I have to clean my desk off. You'll understand why once you see the before and after pics







! I managed to allow my desk to become a HUGE DISASTER AREA, and that is an understatement.

BTW:
*SOCKET 939 IS NO LONGER A DEAD SOCKET!!!! I JUST PLAYED CRYSIS FOR ABOUT 10 MINUTES ON VERY HIGH AT 1440X900......BENCHMARKS COMING TO A THEATER NEAR YOU!!!!* Granted I was getting around 20FPS, but it was 100% playable. I knocked all the settings down to "Very High", 1440x900, and turned the shaders to high instead of very high. I'm now getting 35-40FPS.....and all I did was knock shaders down ONE notch. I'm VERY impressed thus far....can't wait till I get my desk cleaned off (getting ready to do that now).....and loading up Race07 and playing with some friendly people!

txtmstrjoe:
The time is almost here. Give me a little while longer and I'll have Race07 loaded up and ready to play. I'll let you know here in the club, and via PM once I'm all ready







.


----------



## sublime0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Update everyone!

The card is now installed and I have the pictures taken thus far. However I am not going to post till I am done....I have to clean my desk off. You'll understand why once you see the before and after pics







! I managed to allow my desk to become a HUGE DISASTER AREA, and that is an understatement.

BTW:
*SOCKET 939 IS NO LONGER A DEAD SOCKET!!!! I JUST PLAYED CRYSIS FOR ABOUT 10 MINUTES ON VERY HIGH AT 1440X900......BENCHMARKS COMING TO A THEATER NEAR YOU!!!!* Granted I was getting around 20FPS, but it was 100% playable. I knocked all the settings down to "Very High", 1440x900, and turned the shaders to high instead of very high. I'm now getting 35-40FPS.....and all I did was knock shaders down ONE notch. I'm VERY impressed thus far....can't wait till I get my desk cleaned off (getting ready to do that now).....and loading up Race07 and playing with some friendly people!

txtmstrjoe:
The time is almost here. Give me a little while longer and I'll have Race07 loaded up and ready to play. I'll let you know here in the club, and via PM once I'm all ready







.



Welcome to the beauty of crysis maxed out...







Glad you could join the club.. SKT939 is far from dead. My opty165 seemed faster at 2.9ghz than my 6000+ @3.2


----------



## iandroo888

i wanna do that


----------



## Oscuro

Ordered.
I won't say what, cause I know some crack monkey might try and hijack my gear!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Oscuro* 
Ordered.
I won't say what, cause I know some crack monkey might try and hijack my gear!

Lol, I wanna know!!!!


----------



## iandroo888

ha! whatever it is. we still goin to come jack it!







u shouldnt of even said u ordered something =P


----------



## Oscuro

Fine:
2x Delta 92x38 Triple blade high speed fans
1x Scythe Kaze Master (5.25) controller
Some fan lead extensions (I don't know how to solder, or I would probably just make them longr myself...project for the future?)

Edit: When is the case competition ending again?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Oscuro*


Fine:
2x Delta 92x38 Triple blade high speed fans
1x Scythe Kaze Master (5.25) controller
Some fan lead extensions (I don't know how to solder, or I would probably just make them longr myself...project for the future?)

Edit: When is the case competition ending again?


Hehe Delta tri-blades are the bomb.









Contest ends this Friday, *BUT* if I'm convinced and persuaded by more entries, an extension is possible. The contest judges are very open to a final extension to encourage even more entries.

We have to dilute iandroo's chances, if nothing else.


----------



## iandroo888

***. im not saying u shouldnt but thats the point if all you going to do is extend it? if u were goin to extend it, its goin to be the 2nd time. unless u can get all entrants to approve on the extension, then i think there shouldnt be one. things shouldnt be changed to fit anothers needs. thats almost like saying to extend the election for a new president to encourage more people to vote >_>

(sorry for being so direct)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


***. im not saying u shouldnt but thats the point if all you going to do is extend it? if u were goin to extend it, its goin to be the 2nd time. unless u can get all entrants to approve on the extension, then i think there shouldnt be one. things shouldnt be changed to fit anothers needs. thats almost like saying to extend the election for a new president to encourage more people to vote >_>

(sorry for being so direct)


You make a great point, actually.

I'll consult our judges, but I think you're right: *If* there is an extension, it will not be the judges' decision.

My apologies to you as well; my clumsy attempts at humor have offended you.


----------



## GuardianOdin

how many have joined the contest so far? and I can't seem to find the dang link to the contest page


----------



## shinji2k

I think there are 12, maybe 13 entrants. Did a quick count, I think I missed one. That's still not very many. I'm not in it to win so the more the merrier IMO.


----------



## GuardianOdin

LOL, I guess I could have just looked in the AMD section for the link.....slaps head


----------



## thlnk3r

Pioneer, hurry up with the benchmarks


----------



## iandroo888

ha. i left my window open yesterday.. weather was pretty chilly and windy. woke up in the morning.. saw my comp was loading at 31C/42C. i was like O_O!







crazy what cold air can do.. hahaha..

sorry txtmstrjoe. i get kinda tempered when theres a test around the corner. lol. so apologies for that. bloop...

*kicks pioneer* he probably played crysis all night.. and laughed himself to sleep.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
ha. i left my window open yesterday.. weather was pretty chilly and windy. woke up in the morning.. saw my comp was loading at 31C/42C. i was like O_O!







crazy what cold air can do.. hahaha..

sorry txtmstrjoe. i get kinda tempered when theres a test around the corner. lol. so apologies for that. bloop...

*kicks pioneer* he probably played crysis all night.. and laughed himself to sleep.

Nah, dude, I'm the one who was wrong about things.







And you're every bit correct with what you said about extending the contest. Very astute of you.









I'll put the matter up for formal vote sometime today, when I have time in my work schedule. LOL

pioneer actually went racing last night.

With me.

And three random strangers. LOL

I never knew racing online was buckets of fun.

Just as long as you calibrate your controller properly. (My throttle was stuck wide open all race long.)


----------



## Blitz6804

And that is different from how you race when the controller works properly... how?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
And that is different from how you race when the controller works properly... how?

Blitz, find a heavy rock and place it on your gas pedal. Now try driving around town with the rock on the gas pedal...don't move it at all! Let us know how that goes...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
And that is different from how you race when the controller works properly... how?

Hehe, racing is all about control, my friend. Going into different types of corners with different entry speeds, angles, grip levels, curbs, bumps, and all other things without the ability to slow down properly (and speed up properly as well) is a disaster.

Imagine it this way: It's a second gear, very slow tight right corner followed by another tight left corner. You're going into it from top gear, top speed. Your throttle is stuck wide open, which means that, even under maximum braking, your car is still accelerating forward.

I was riding the brakes all through the corners correcting the steering all race long.







How I didn't plow into the guard rail, I don't know...


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz, find a heavy rock and place it on your gas pedal. Now try driving around town with the rock on the gas pedal...don't move it at all! Let us know how that goes...

I do it all the time; except when I see police. Then I will slow down long enough to avoid detection.

Though, I did get pulled over two weeks ago for doing 73 in a 55. Considering I was doing 95 or so, I will take it.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Though, I did get pulled over two weeks ago for doing 73 in a 55. Considering I was doing 95 or so, I will take it.

Blitz, sounds like their radar guns need some calibration.


----------



## Blitz6804

Oh no. I saw the officer sitting in the middle of the road and started to break. Unfortunately, I did not start breaking early enough.

He let me off with a warning anyway, so it is moot. I have yet to ever receive a speeding ticket that has stood in court.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Nah, dude, I'm the one who was wrong about things.







And you're every bit correct with what you said about extending the contest. Very astute of you.









I'll put the matter up for formal vote sometime today, when I have time in my work schedule. LOL

pioneer actually went racing last night.

With me.

And three random strangers. LOL

I never knew racing online was buckets of fun.

Just as long as you calibrate your controller properly. (My throttle was stuck wide open all race long.)









*poke poke*









Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz, find a heavy rock and place it on your gas pedal. Now try driving around town with the rock on the gas pedal...don't move it at all! Let us know how that goes...

rofl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Hehe, racing is all about control, my friend. Going into different types of corners with different entry speeds, angles, grip levels, curbs, bumps, and all other things without the ability to slow down properly (and speed up properly as well) is a disaster.

Imagine it this way: It's a second gear, very slow tight right corner followed by another tight left corner. You're going into it from top gear, top speed. Your throttle is stuck wide open, which means that, even under maximum braking, your car is still accelerating forward.

I was riding the brakes all through the corners correcting the steering all race long.







How I didn't plow into the guard rail, I don't know...









drifting ftw!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I do it all the time; except when I see police. Then I will slow down long enough to avoid detection.

Though, I did get pulled over two weeks ago for doing 73 in a 55. Considering I was doing 95 or so, I will take it.

haha

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz, sounds like their radar guns need some calibration.

sounds like u need one of those rader scramblers. i saw at SEMA 2008. u put it on the front end of your car. then they try to "check" you, it comes up blank on their gun.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Oh no. I saw the officer sitting in the middle of the road and started to break. Unfortunately, I did not start breaking early enough.

He let me off with a warning anyway, so it is moot. I have yet to ever receive a speeding ticket that has stood in court.

i wish there were 55 mph roads here.. only 15, 25, 35, 45... and 65 freeway (which i go at like 90 - 100.. >_> lol fastest ive went on the freeway was 132 with an rx-7 =D


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Oh no. I saw the officer sitting in the middle of the road and started to break. Unfortunately, I did not start breaking early enough.

He let me off with a warning anyway, so it is moot. I have yet to ever receive a speeding ticket that has stood in court.

blitz, you need a new nickname: "Speed Racer."


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
sounds like u need one of those rader scramblers. i saw at SEMA 2008. u put it on the front end of your car. then they try to "check" you, it comes up blank on their gun.

Those are illegal in New York. You may have a RADAR detector legally. LASER detectors are illegal. Scramblers or blockers of any kind are illegal. I do not like to break laws you see.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
i wish there were 55 mph roads here.. only 15, 25, 35, 45... and 65 freeway (which i go at like 90 - 100.. >_> lol fastest ive went on the freeway was 132 with an rx-7 =D

By me, most of the roads are 40, 45, or 55. The New York State thruway is 65.

However, I am from Long Island. There, everyone does 20-30 MPH over the speed limit. Up here, they will give you a ticket even for doing 5 MPH over with the end result that most people do 10 MPH UNDER the limit. Ticks me off so bad.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Those are illegal in New York. You may have a RADAR detector legally. LASER detectors are illegal. Scramblers or blockers of any kind are illegal. I do not like to break laws you see.

By me, most of the roads are 40, 45, or 55. The New York State thruway is 65.

However, I am from Long Island. There, everyone does 20-30 MPH over the speed limit. Up here, they will give you a ticket even for doing 5 MPH over with the end result that most people do 10 MPH UNDER the limit. Ticks me off so bad.


radar detectors are widely sold.. but laser scramblers... i dont know haha. it was being shown at SEMA.. so shouldnt everything be legal there 

we have a freeway called Beltway that wraps around the city. very convienent. not many cops there so me and my friends usually race or screw around there. lol..


----------



## Blitz6804

I found out that my car has a rev limiter installed. Hit a certain speed, and the gas pedal disconnects until the RPMs drop below a certain threshold. Very annoying. Unless I am mistaken, the car shipped with 87 S tires. I replaced those with 93 H tires (or maybe 89 H?). I should get the limiter removed, though, I cannot see Ford wanting to do it without at least giving me a funny look.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


do not like to break laws you see.


Blitz, you broke the law when you went 95 in a 45 LOL


----------



## Blitz6804

That is actually 95 in a 55. I have told you a million times not to exaggerate.

Besides, as far as anyone knows, it did not happen. How do I explain to the officer when he points his gun at me at gets a "0" back?


----------



## iandroo888

lol. *vroom vroom*


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Maybe we can get enough of a crew of Club S939ers together and race against each other?

Interesting...

(This was thlnk3r's idea, actually. Pretty brilliant, that thlnk3r...)

Five bucks says Scorpion beats both Sub-Zeros.


----------



## iandroo888

ha! what r u runnin thats so great mr scorpion


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Maybe we can get enough of a crew of Club S939ers together and race against each other?

Interesting...

(This was thlnk3r's idea, actually. Pretty brilliant, that thlnk3r...)

Five bucks says Scorpion beats both Sub-Zeros.










whats the game plan? I'm in....I think.


----------



## iandroo888

in fact, what is everyone runnin? if anyone says they have a pinto, id give them the b(o)(o)bie prize lol


----------



## Blitz6804

2002 Ford Focus ZX3 Power Premium.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


ha! what r u runnin thats so great mr scorpion


What am I running (other than me mouth?







), you ask?

Just whatever the game offers. Though I much prefer open-wheelers to tin-tops.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


whats the game plan? I'm in....I think.










If you've got Race07, that's all there is.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Slick black 1994 Pontiac Bonneville......it's about dead.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


If you've got Race07, that's all there is.










nevermind.Apparently I haven't a clue


----------



## Blitz6804

Oh! Txtmstrjoe meant in Race07! Yeah, I do not own that game. In Gran Tourismo, I have a Lotus Espirit running at around 1096 HP. If only I had that in real life. *Sobs* (;_


----------



## iandroo888

not too much of a fan on lotus. friend's brother has one. drove it once.. kinda too small for me..


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
nevermind.Apparently I haven't a clue









Heehee Blame iandroo for this one. We were talking about Race07, then he asks about what we all run.









But, to answer his question, I have a really dirty black 1996 Ford Probe GT (V6). Not much power, but has tons of grip due to really fat tires. I've never so much as slid that thing (except in puddles and aquaplaning) when cornering.

My dad's Dodge Caravan, though... getting that thing to four-wheel drift on a freeway off-ramp is something else...


----------



## boonie2

*UPDATE* MY opteron 170 just arrived {finally} , getting ready to make the switch....should I use the AMD Dual core optimizer ? and also ive read somewhere about the microsoft hotfix patch for dual cores , do i need to install that also? just want to make sure i do this right...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


*UPDATE* MY opteron 170 just arrived {finally} , getting ready to make the switch....should I use the AMD Dual core optimizer ? and also ive read somewhere about the microsoft hotfix patch for dual cores , do i need to install that also? just want to make sure i do this right...










Boonie, here is the short guide that I followed with in regards to installing the Optimizer and the MS patch: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...ad.php?t=81429.

Hope this helps


----------



## boonie2

thanks think3r .. wish me luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Good luck boonie2!

You should be back soon I think, about 20 minutes for a proc seat sounds right. Well, at least if you want to be stock which you should be until the TIM sets.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Good luck boonie2!

You should be back soon I think, about 20 minutes for a proc seat sounds right. Well, at least if you want to be stock which you should be until the TIM sets.










36 minutes







, took time to clean the freezer pro and eat some dinner , booted right up no problems at all , installed the hotfix and the dual core optimizer...ill let her trot along at stock for awhile and check out my apps. maybe some testing later on... karens waiting for her 4000 san deigo now hahaha....oh before i forget......HAPPY BIRTHDAY PIONEER


----------



## Blitz6804

Just do me a favor and check your boot.ini. You should have a /usepmtimer boot tag.

How'd you get SP3 anyway? Isn't it still in beta?


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Just do me a favor and check your boot.ini. You should have a /usepmtimer boot tag.

How'd you get SP3 anyway? Isn't it still in beta?

boot.ini. ? in the bios?
got sp3 from a website that linked me to microsoft downloads , theres a link {option} there to allow it to be installed with microsoft updates ....it didnt mention anything about it being in beta still , i was reading up on it , weather or not i should install it , saw the link , and decided to give it a try...havent noticed anything different , good or bad


----------



## Blitz6804

Open up explorer and find:

C:\\boot.ini

If you open it that way, it will be read only.


----------



## boonie2

its listed , went thru my computer / properties / advanced / start up and recovery / edit ...its listed at the end of operating systems so im assuming its using it


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes, if it is there it is using it. If I remember right, the MS Hotfix (or the AMD Patch for Athlons) installs it. I just wanted to double check that it is in fact working.

What do you think of dual core? Upset you waited so long?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

An announcement for all Socket 939 Appreciation Club members:

We are very quickly coming up on the deadline for our Club-exclusive Case Management Contest. At the moment the number of entries (12, if my count is correct) is way too small than what the judges expected considering the initial reaction when this contest was just an idea. Most of us think that the more the entries we have, the merrier the whole thing would be!

So this is what iandroo so astutely suggested: We'll let you, the Club membership, decide whether or not the contest deadline be delayed one more time. The first time it was delayed, it was the judges' decision. Now, in fairness to those who have already submitted their entries, it will be the membership's choice.

Accordingly, I have set up a poll in the Contest Thread. The poll will be up for only *TWO DAYS*, which, conveniently enough, is also the deadline for the contest.

I need the membership to speak with their votes in this. This is now out of the judges' hands, and into yours. We will do as the poll indicates. So please choose and act.









Thank you, everyone.









(Cross-posted in the Contest thread.)


----------



## Blitz6804

So voted.


----------



## Blitz6804

Oh, and for the record: I am ticked off. After forcably loading on the WHQL-FM Approved video card drivers, my computer cranked out 8991 3DMarks.

9... more... marks...

I WANT THEM!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Oh, and for the record: I am ticked off. After forcably loading on the WHQL-FM Approved video card drivers, my computer cranked out 8991 3DMarks.

9... more... marks...

I WANT THEM!

Three words, my man:

PCI-Express MOTHERBOARD.


----------



## Blitz6804

I am not doing PCI-E until I do Crossfire. I am not doing Crossfire until I graduate. So, I do not see that as an option.

Maybe I can get a run in at 254x11 (which is thus far only suicide stable) and have it be enough to push me past that magic 9k.


----------



## iandroo888

^ agreed with joe


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I am not doing PCI-E until I do Crossfire. I am not doing Crossfire until I graduate. So, I do not see that as an option.

Maybe I can get a run in at 254x11 (which is thus far only suicide stable) and have it be enough to push me past that magic 9k.

I wish I had the super power that could allow me to play "Keep Away" with those 9 3DMarks points you're pining after.


----------



## Blitz6804

Okay, here is the story.

I want to kick txtmstrjoe's butt in Race 07, but I cannot afford a copy. I have suggested that he buy me one, but he is too afraid of the inevitable result.

Accordingly, I am passing a hat around. Anyone want to contribute to the "watch txtmstrjoe squirm" pot?


----------



## boonie2

I think ive got some spare change here somewhere


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Okay, here is the story.

I want to kick txtmstrjoe's butt in Race 07, but I cannot afford a copy. I have suggested that he buy me one, but he is too afraid of the inevitable result.

Accordingly, I am passing a hat around. Anyone want to contribute to the "watch txtmstrjoe squirm" pot?


I fear no man.

If someone races better, so be it.

But I don't know if that person is YOU, of all people.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

boonie, someone teach you how to post pics in the Contest thread yet?


----------



## iandroo888

haha watch txtmstrjoe squirm pot haha


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


haha watch txtmstrjoe squirm pot haha


Dude, it's your fellow Sub-Zero's birthday in a couple of weeks.

Can you spare a brother a dime?


----------



## Blitz6804

I has a paypal donate button if it helps anyone.

*Is dressed in rags with a tin cup out*


----------



## iandroo888

*gives him my coin bucket*


----------



## GuardianOdin

ohhhh ohhh...I need a coin bucket too! No really I kid, but not really.....cause I'm broke.....and I can't read.







.....







.....







......


----------



## pioneerisloud

I think we should have a dedicated Race07 night! Anyone within our club that has or can get Race07 should play! Its only a $20 at your local Best Buy....best $20 (if you like racing sims) that I've ever spent!

Update!
I'd have to appologize for the lack of benchmarks of my new rig. I'm going to be posting up pictures of my rig in the contest shortly. I am also going to run ONE TIME 3Dmark06, and post the results here. I am also going to ONE TIME run the Crysis benchmark, post it here and in the Crysis benchmark thread. Please keep in mind, this is on my crappy slowed down, bogged down, spyware infested (probably not), Vista install that has been running for months now. I will redo ALL benchmarks Thursday night or Friday with XP and Vista...and you will ALL be invited to share in the fun!

And Finally:
I personally drive a 1991 Buick Regal LTD. Before that I drove a CHERRY 1990 Toyota Celica GTX (rare model, roughly 100 made), that sported a $12,000 Pioneer Premier system in it. It was sweet, till my "buddy" decided to drive it into a telephone pole. You live, you learn, then your grandma gives you her old POS beat up old Buick!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Alright guys, you wanted a link, well I've got one for you. Here's my worklog that I just finished uploading...for your enjoyment. It includes some before and after shots of my desk and rig, and benchmarks including 3DMark06 and Crysis. The benchmark section is incomplete as I'm running off of a REALLY BAD Vista install that is lagging down horribly. So stay tuned if you'd like to see how high I can crank this puppy!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I think we should have a dedicated Race07 night! Anyone within our club that has or can get Race07 should play! Its only a $20 at your local Best Buy....best $20 (if you like racing sims) that I've ever spent!


Pioneer, I'm game for that.

EDIT: Wow Pioneer no wonder that DFI board smelled like death sticks when I got it


----------



## iandroo888

death sticks?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


death sticks? 


Iandroo, for more details check out this link: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spice_(...)#Death_sticks.

This is what me and Joe are referring to.


----------



## iandroo888

yummy


----------



## RAMDAC

We need the formula of Bando Gora's more potent and deadly death sticks!


----------



## Blitz6804

Froggy, it is your job to take away those death sticks and flush them. We want pioneerisloud to someday be pioneerisold and not pioneerisdead.


----------



## Anqt31

Hey, I recently Oc'd my ASUS A8N-SLI Deluxe and AMD Athlon 4200+. I hit 2806 Mhz, booted into Vista Ultimate x64 and ran Orthos for 4+ hours. Here's a screenshot of the overclock. The load temp was 68 degrees Celcius with a stock cooler.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Pioneer, I'm game for that.

*EDIT: Wow Pioneer no wonder that DFI board smelled like death sticks when I got it







*

I said I was VERY sorry for that







. I seriously had no clue that it smelled like that. And I even attempted to clean that board before I sent it! My god, you guys should see what the smoke does to computer parts....my server's window is starting to turn brown







. I think we're going to start smoking outside now that its nice out







. That should help our components to last longer!

And we are BOTH trying to quit. Its just not easy.

Stay tuned everyone.....I should have some updates on the overclockability of this GTS and my final (hopefully) 3DMark score sometime tonight or tomorrow. I'm going to start my formatting process soon.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I said I was VERY sorry for that







. I seriously had no clue that it smelled like that. And I even attempted to clean that board before I sent it!

Pioneer, it's ok dude I was just joking. I actually just left the board in my garage for a few weeks and the smell disappeared


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well that's good to hear. BTW, how's that thing clockin' for ya? Or is it just stock? Is it running a dual core CPU (I hear that may have been my issue)? What about RAM?, lol....I'm just wondering how that board's doing. I miss cussing it out.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


Hey, I recently Oc'd my ASUS A8N-SLI Deluxe and AMD Athlon 4200+. I hit 2806 Mhz, booted into Vista Ultimate x64 and ran Orthos for 4+ hours. Here's a screenshot of the overclock. The load temp was 68 degrees Celcius with a stock cooler.


Hey Anqt31, I'm trying to add you to our roster, but it seems like OCN is having issues with post edits at the moment.

I'd like to welcome you to the S939 Appreciation Club anyway!







You'll be added to the roster on the first post of the thread as soon as OCN's issues get sorted.


----------



## pioneerisloud

A warm welcome to you, from me as well!

BTW, txtmstrjoe:
We're going to have to do some Race07 tomorrow sometime after I get my install going. I'm testing stability for my GPU overclock right now...then benching (stock everything / overclocked everything)....then formatting and going to Vista, doing the same, then installing all my good stuff.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


A warm welcome to you, from me as well!

BTW, txtmstrjoe:
We're going to have to do some Race07 tomorrow sometime after I get my install going. I'm testing stability for my GPU overclock right now...then benching (stock everything / overclocked everything)....then formatting and going to Vista, doing the same, then installing all my good stuff.


I'd love to race with you again.







Tomorrow may not be good for me, though; I'm breaking down my testing rig and migrating it from a CoolerMaster CM690 to a Rocketfish full tower; thlnk3r is thinking of buying the CM690 from me.









If I'm otherwise not busy, then we can have a couple of fun-filled madcap laps around Monza or somewhere.









By the way, I'm still having issues with adding Anqt31 to our roster. Please bear with me.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Update on my progress here for the exclusive 939'ers:

*I JUST BROKE 11K 3DMARKS WITH MY SIG RIG!!!!* That is with 100% stable overclocks on everything. CPU was at 3.0GHz, not gonna say GPU....you gotta stay tuned to my worklog for that. However nothing is going to be posted till all tests have been completed...but I will be updating here ONLY until then.

That is the highest I can get stable. The actual score was 11020 3DMarks. I'm going to attempt a few suicide runs and see how that does...just for fun. I'll keep you guys posted...trying to break 12k is a pain!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Update on my progress here for the exclusive 939'ers:

*I JUST BROKE 11K 3DMARKS WITH MY SIG RIG!!!!* That is with 100% stable overclocks on everything. CPU was at 3.0GHz, not gonna say GPU....you gotta stay tuned to my worklog for that. However nothing is going to be posted till all tests have been completed...but I will be updating here ONLY until then.

That is the highest I can get stable. The actual score was 11020 3DMarks. I'm going to attempt a few suicide runs and see how that does...just for fun. I'll keep you guys posted...trying to break 12k is a pain!


LIES!



















Just kidding, pioneer!









Great job with that, man!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


LIES!



















Just kidding, pioneer!









Great job with that, man!


Nope, no lies. I'm still working on it....so no proof yet. But the proof will be soon arriving (tomorrow, okay sometime today) with any luck! I've got the screenshots taken thus far with 2 CPUz windows (main and memory tabs), and a GPUz window open as well. Along with the 3DMark verification and Everest OSD showing as well. This is all done with a bare stock Windows XP SP2 install, and drivers only.

Anyways, this will all be updated on my dedicated thread....and I will show the 3DMark proof here as well (with my highest one). So stay tuned everyone.


----------



## GuardianOdin

*YAY!*


----------



## Iceman0803

Hey all! I will be adding my name to this list of esteemed members soon! I just need to pick up a case and HDD for my S939 hardware! I would have done it sooner but bills suck...lol.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Here's a teaser to my bench progress guys. I posted it in my worklog because I was begged to do so (thanks Iceman), so I figure I should update here too:










Remember, this is just a teaser....there's LOADS more that I've done and have proof of it all







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

@ Guardian: SWEET! I wish I had the foresight to screen cap my own Post #939 (and every 1000 posts thereafter).









@ pioneer: It seems that you've run into similar post editing gremlins as I have. That's a bit reassuring, knowing I'm not actually living up to my classification of Sr. PEBMAC Specialist.









@ Iceman: Yo, man, we'd love to have you with us! Old friends joining new friends is always a great thing.









@ S939 Club Membership: Today is the *DEADLINE FOR RESPONDING TO OUR POLL* in our Club-exclusive Contest thread. You have until 7:41PM EST/4:41PM PST to have your say, to decide whether or not there will be any deadline extensions to the contest. After the deadline has passed, I will filter out the illegitimate posts (i.e., votes that will not count because they are from non-Club members or a well-meaning judge posted a vote -- psst! it was pioneer!), and the issue will be settled by the will of the Club members.

That's all for now!

Good day, everyone!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Update on my progress here for the exclusive 939'ers:

*I JUST BROKE 11K 3DMARKS WITH MY SIG RIG!!!!* That is with 100% stable overclocks on everything. CPU was at 3.0GHz, not gonna say GPU....you gotta stay tuned to my worklog for that. However nothing is going to be posted till all tests have been completed...but I will be updating here ONLY until then.

That is the highest I can get stable. The actual score was 11020 3DMarks. I'm going to attempt a few suicide runs and see how that does...just for fun. I'll keep you guys posted...trying to break 12k is a pain!


Pioneer, nice scores! Not bad at all for 4-5 year old tech


----------



## Blitz6804

The good news: I ordered Race 07.

The bad news: No Best Buys near me are in stock, and so I could not get the "ship to store" option and needed to pay shipping.


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz, awesome









Once I get my hands on a wheel I'll be picking up the game


----------



## Blitz6804

Grah! It is getting hot and I am getting cranky!

It is 24Âº C outside, and for some ungodly reason, my A/C's compressor is shut off. I complained to maintenance, but at present, my apartment is 22Âº C and rising...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Grah! It is getting hot and I am getting cranky!

It is 24Âº C outside, and for some ungodly reason, my A/C's compressor is shut off. I complained to maintenance, but at present, my apartment is 22Âº C and rising...


Bah!

I would kill for ambients as low as 22 degs C...

Last night at bedtime, my bedroom was at a *Scorpion-esque TOASTY* 28 degs C.


----------



## Blitz6804

You are Scorpion. I am Sub-Zero.

We see the problem?

I just got off the phone with management. Seems it is their policy not to turn the A/Cs on until May. However, if we have good weather until Tuesday, they will do so then. Right now, they are worried about frost.

How you get frost at forecast lows of 10Âº C and forecast highs of 25Âº C, I have no idea.


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, awesome









Once I get my hands on a wheel I'll be picking up the game










How is Race 07 for realism? Like GTR2 or not?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hmmm...

Interesting point. Hellspawns, even noble ones like me, do have to endure an apartment sans AC if that is the way things are.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Iceman0803*


How is Race 07 for realism? Like GTR2 or not?


It's made by SimBin (just like GTR2), but it's slightly better visually. Realism-wise, well, it's not as good as rFactor (or even F1 Challenge), but still pretty decent. I'd say it's halfway between a full-on sim (like "Live for Speed" reputedly is; I'm thinking of sinking some koin into this game sometime) and an arcade-type racing game.

Regardless, it's good fun!


----------



## alexgheseger

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Hmmm...

*Interesting point. Hellspawns, even noble ones like me, do have to endure an apartment sans AC if that is the way things are.*

It's made by SimBin (just like GTR2), but it's slightly better visually. Realism-wise, well, it's not as good as rFactor (or even F1 Challenge), but still pretty decent. I'd say it's halfway between a full-on sim (like "Live for Speed" reputedly is; I'm thinking of sinking some koin into this game sometime) and an arcade-type racing game.

Regardless, it's good fun!









You want AC? How about some...

















SNOW!!!

Yeah, that's what it's like outside here







.


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Hmmm...

Interesting point. Hellspawns, even noble ones like me, do have to endure an apartment sans AC if that is the way things are.

It's made by SimBin (just like GTR2), but it's slightly better visually. Realism-wise, well, it's not as good as rFactor (or even F1 Challenge), but still pretty decent. I'd say it's halfway between a full-on sim (like "Live for Speed" reputedly is; I'm thinking of sinking some koin into this game sometime) and an arcade-type racing game.

Regardless, it's good fun!









I may have to look into picking up a copy


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexgheseger* 
You want AC? How about some...

SNOW!!!

Yeah, that's what it's like outside here







.











Believe it or not, *I WANT THAT!!!*

I've been telling my girlfriend that she and I ought to move to Canada, but she's not having any of that.

(Should I consider breaking up with her?)









Not only would my rigs love the cold, but I get to wear my leather trenchcoat much more than I do now.


----------



## iandroo888

i love the cold. did i ever mention, one windy cold day a few days ago, i left my window open. my comp was loading at like 30/40C i was like O_O

*edit*

omg i won a free ocn applique.. so happy.. now if i can win in the contest too.. this would be a great weekend


----------



## RAMDAC

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
i love the cold. did i ever mention, one windy cold day a few days ago, i left my window open. my comp was loading at like 30/40C i was like O_O

Hi landroo,
You can have a cool running pc either by waiting for the cold days or simply by activating C'n'Q.


























Quote:

*edit*

omg i won a free ocn applique.. so happy.. now if i can win in the contest too.. this would be a great weekend









I root for you!!


----------



## iandroo888

CnQ doesnt work for me. *shrugs* 1. fans arent connected to motherboard. 2. its like hot n loud for me hahaha


----------



## froggy1986

Congrats androo on the winning of the applique. Is it an internal or external one?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RAMDAC* 
Hi landroo,
You can have a cool running pc either by waiting for the cold days or simply by activating *C'n'Q*.


Dem's fight'in words mister!.....eewww C'n'Q


----------



## froggy1986

OMG, I have found my newest addiction, I tried out my Crysis last night just to see if it worked as well as I had hoped, 5-6 hours later, I remembered I was supposed to have been playing CoD4... I think I'm hooked on Crysis now. I made it to the stupid river when the GD chopper is above me, right next to the objective spot, I was so tired, that when I went to save my game, I accidently deleted my last save point. NOW I gotta get through that river all over again








Speaking of, has anyone played the multiplayer version? Is it alot like CoD4, but with diff weapons and vehicles???


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


Originally Posted by *froggy1986* 
Congrats androo on the winning of the applique. Is it an internal or external one?

thx thx. internal i think. o well. if its internal, ill put it on my arcrylic. if its external, ill put it on side panel. lol.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *froggy1986* 
OMG, I have found my newest addiction, I tried out my Crysis last night just to see if it worked as well as I had hoped, 5-6 hours later, I remembered I was supposed to have been playing CoD4... I think I'm hooked on Crysis now. I made it to the stupid river when the GD chopper is above me, right next to the objective spot, I was so tired, that when I went to save my game, I accidently deleted my last save point. NOW I gotta get through that river all over again








Speaking of, has anyone played the multiplayer version? Is it alot like CoD4, but with diff weapons and vehicles???

haha i remember that part. that helicopter sucks. wait. thats where i stopped playing crysis at. nuuu......

dunoe. heard multiplayer sucked on crysis. *shrugs* CoD4 probably better


----------



## Blitz6804

CnQ FtW?

Iandroo888: you need not have your fan plugged into your mobo; CnQ mods the multi and voltage. For a time, I did not, and it makes no difference.


----------



## boonie2

Hi guys {and ladies} id like to officially submit my new opty overclock into our hallowed halls ... cant seem to get it to post on the page here so i took a photo of cpuz and it is in my profile . yeah i know its kind of a backwards way to do that but sooner or later ill get this figured out


----------



## pioneerisloud

@boonie2:
Hmmm, you got your 170 LCB9E to 2.9GHZ.....seems froggy1986 has some clocking to do ahead of her.....she's got the same stepping chip. We just gotta get your temperatures under control....

BTW....anybody interested in trading a Big Typhoon with a different cooler (maybe even a non-bolt down type)? Preferrably one that we can still use the same 120mm fan on?

Its just an idea because that Big Typhoon needs lapped BAD....and we suck at mounting bolt-down type coolers...so between those two problems, she loads at over 70*C.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


@boonie2:
Hmmm, you got your 170 LCB9E to 2.9GHZ.....seems froggy1986 has some clocking to do ahead of her.....she's got the same stepping chip. We just gotta get your temperatures under control....

BTW....anybody interested in trading a Big Typhoon with a different cooler (maybe even a non-bolt down type)? Preferrably one that we can still use the same 120mm fan on?

Its just an idea because that Big Typhoon needs lapped BAD....and we suck at mounting bolt-down type coolers...so between those two problems, she loads at over 70*C.


yep just alittle vcore boost , its running prime now {almost an hour} later on ill run orthos


----------



## Blitz6804

Some people who saw my rig in the contest may have wondered when they saw this picture:










I indicated that it represented approximately what I saw from my desk chair, but slightly zoomed. Contrary to prior belief, I do not have a "low rider", but instead, a very pricey
posturepedic chair (bad back for the lose!) and the PC in an awkward spot.

I had debated posting the total picture I just took of my entire wall and seeing if people can guess what everything is in the crud-fest resolution of my Laptop's web camera. I also made an annotated edition to show txtmstrjoe.

However, instead of clogging up the thread (maybe I will do it in my own later) I will post instead merely an edited portion showing the relevant bits:










(In case you are curious, my wallpaper here is a picture of my first (and so far only) megalopolis in SimCity (SNES).)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Finally! The post edit gremlins have been chased away!

Please formally welcome Anqt31 to our fraternity of S939 lovers!

Huzzah!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Sweet, now I can update my benchmark thread!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well, since I'm finally able to edit my posts, I've updated my worklog. Check it out here guys, and let me know if there's any other benchmarks I should run...other than the ones listed.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Finally! The post edit gremlins have been chased away!

Please formally welcome Anqt31 to our fraternity of S939 lovers!

Huzzah!










Welcome Anqt31 ..............Hey what about adding my opty o/c ??


----------



## Blitz6804

Here is boonie2's Opty CPU-Z:










Get cracking Joe!

(And boonie2, are you going to be able to reupload the pic of your Sandy?)


----------



## boonie2

thanks Blitz ,I appeicate that , Ive tried the image hosting but couldnt get it to post here for some reason .. so i had to take the "caveman" approach .... "reupload the pic of my sandy" ? you mean the cpuz verification ?


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah. Then you have the link of each on the roster.

The image hoster you use must support Hotlinking. I use either Imageshack for a single file or RipWay for a large number of files or things I want showing for a long time.

All else fails, if the image is smaller than 1600px x 1200px x 979 KB, just upload it to the forum.

And what I mean by uploading: either change your profile pic to the CPU-Z of your Sandy, or upload it somewhere that I can help you post it.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Thanks, Sub-Zero, for helping boonie out!

And my apologies, boonie, for not acting on this sooner.







But your Opteron is now duly noted on our roster.







Most impressive job with it, too.

I bet you'll never go back to single-core again, huh?


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Yes...pogo! She had to quit Orthos so she could play her freakin pogo! Once she see's Crysis running on her rig...I have a feeling I'll convert her to real games! She loves FEAR...so I see Bioshock and Crysis being in her near future gaming experience! But yeah it just ticks me off that she stopped a perfectly good Orthos run to do freakin pogo! Oh well.....next time I'll make sure I don't work the next day so I can WATCH her stupid computer so she doesn't screw with it till I'm done with it, lol.


I know this is an old post to quote. However; I am poking through the thread for nostalgia's sake and other incommunicado reasons. I wanted to point out that it appears pioneer is right: froggy got hooked on Crysis.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I know this is an old post to quote. However; I am poking through the thread for nostalgia's sake and other incommunicado reasons. I wanted to point out that it appears pioneer is right: froggy got hooked on Crysis.


My god your right!!! I'm a pyscho....I can see the future!!!!


----------



## Blitz6804

Pioneer and I worked out a formula to guestimate 3DMark06 scores. I am going to test it now.

EDIT: So much for that idea; it will not post at 254 now either. Fun times.

I set it back to 250, and now, Catalyst Control Center is not loading either, making my video card run at stock again. I will reinstall it later, I just cannot do it now.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Thanks, Sub-Zero, for helping boonie out!

And my apologies, boonie, for not acting on this sooner.







But your Opteron is now duly noted on our roster.







Most impressive job with it, too.

I bet you'll never go back to single-core again, huh?









NO APOLOGY NEEDED , Im sure your doing alot of other things too , no reason to go back to single , but that sandy was {is} 1 sweet chip


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
My god your right!!! I'm a pyscho....I can see the future!!!!

I know, man!

I always though you were *PSYCHO*.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Forgive the double post, but I've got a story to tell about some hot times last night.

So last night, I IMed pioneer. Since he had challenged me to a race on Race 07, I decided to take him up on it.

We set things up. WTCC (World Touring Car Championship) 2007 cars at the Monza race track in Italy. We get in the server, talk a little smack to each other in the chat lobby, then get on track for qualifying.

I'm buzzing along, learning my car and evaluating its setup. pioneer does a donut in front of me on the main straight opposite the pits, trying to take me out.







I get around him "with inches to spare," as he put it.









I continue going around the track when the game froze. I'm like, "what happened?!?"

I reboot, get back into the OS, and I notice my temps. *70 & 71 degs C on the cores at idle just post-boot*. HOLY CATTLE DROPPINGS.

I move the fan controller knob assigned to my CPU fan. No change in sound, so I peek into my case's window (I thanked the Elder Gods for having a windowed case) and saw that the Delta Tri-Blade *was not spinning*. I shut down the rig ASAP.

The SI-128SE's heatpipes were *burning hot*; I've never felt heatpipes that hot. It's a good thing I've got lots of 120mm x 38mm high static pressure fans in my spares box, so I slap a new one on.

That's one hot story I'm not keen to hear about from any of you any time soon.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Ok,I installed ATITool 0.27b4 ....now how the heck do I get to read the default timings on my VidCard? Right now it's all 0's


----------



## Oscuro

Joe, good save








I wonder what happened to the Delta? How long have you had it for and in use?

That's just crazy....


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Forgive the double post, but I've got a story to tell about some hot times last night.

So last night, I IMed pioneer. Since he had challenged me to a race on Race 07, I decided to take him up on it.

We set things up. WTCC (World Touring Car Championship) 2007 cars at the Monza race track in Italy. We get in the server, talk a little smack to each other in the chat lobby, then get on track for qualifying.

I'm buzzing along, learning my car and evaluating its setup. pioneer does a donut in front of me on the main straight opposite the pits, trying to take me out.







I get around him "with inches to spare," as he put it.









I continue going around the track when the game froze. I'm like, "what happened?!?"

I reboot, get back into the OS, and I notice my temps. *70 & 71 degs C on the cores at idle just post-boot*. HOLY CATTLE DROPPINGS.

I move the fan controller knob assigned to my CPU fan. No change in sound, so I peek into my case's window (I thanked the Elder Gods for having a windowed case) and saw that the Delta Tri-Blade *was not spinning*. I shut down the rig ASAP.

The SI-128SE's heatpipes were *burning hot*; I've never felt heatpipes that hot. It's a good thing I've got lots of 120mm x 38mm high static pressure fans in my spares box, so I slap a new one on.

That's one hot story I'm not keen to hear about from any of you any time soon.









You have the story SLIGHTLY off here joe:

I wasn't doing donuts. I was doing my qualifying run, and I couldn't tell if you were behind me anymore. So.....well, you know me







. The particular view I had chosen, didn't have any mirrors to see if you were behind me still. So I did the next logical choice. I grabbed me e-brake, and flipped the car into reverse. I then saw a car racing at me at full speed (you), so I decided I had better turn around again....reverse isn't fast enough







. So I turned the car back around, and as I was doing so, you missed me by mere inches as I was spinning the car back into the forward position. I was on my way to catch back up with you, when you just abruptly left the game! I was shocked.....I thought to myself, "Geez, sore loser







".

So see, I wasn't doing donuts! I was just checking to make sure you hadn't spun out on accident or something







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


You have the story SLIGHTLY off here joe:

I wasn't doing donuts. I was doing my qualifying run, and I couldn't tell if you were behind me anymore. So.....well, you know me







. The particular view I had chosen, didn't have any mirrors to see if you were behind me still. So I did the next logical choice. I grabbed me e-brake, and flipped the car into reverse. I then saw a car racing at me at full speed (you), so I decided I had better turn around again....reverse isn't fast enough







. So I turned the car back around, and as I was doing so, you missed me by mere inches as I was spinning the car back into the forward position. I was on my way to catch back up with you, when you just abruptly left the game! I was shocked.....I thought to myself, "Geez, sore loser







".

So see, I wasn't doing donuts! I was just checking to make sure you hadn't spun out on accident or something







.


Oh, I *KNEW* you weren't doing donuts. I said what I said to protect your dignity.

But since you insist on nullifying my efforts to protect you, well...


----------



## pioneerisloud

What do you mean protect my dignity? I was merely doing it so I could show off, lol. I would have caught back up to you and passed you if you hadn't frozen your rig. You know it, don't deny it







.


----------



## thlnk3r

You two are hilarious. Pioneer doing donuts


----------



## froggy1986

oh yeah...UPDATE: Crysis is beaten after 3 days







Now I guess I'm going back to my "fake" games on pogo...


----------



## pioneerisloud

No, now you should go into Bioshock







.


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Forgive the double post, but I've got a story to tell about some hot times last night.

So last night, I IMed pioneer. Since he had challenged me to a race on Race 07, I decided to take him up on it.

We set things up. WTCC (World Touring Car Championship) 2007 cars at the Monza race track in Italy. We get in the server, talk a little smack to each other in the chat lobby, then get on track for qualifying.

I'm buzzing along, learning my car and evaluating its setup. pioneer does a donut in front of me on the main straight opposite the pits, trying to take me out.







I get around him "with inches to spare," as he put it.









I continue going around the track when the game froze. I'm like, "what happened?!?"

I reboot, get back into the OS, and I notice my temps. *70 & 71 degs C on the cores at idle just post-boot*. HOLY CATTLE DROPPINGS.

I move the fan controller knob assigned to my CPU fan. No change in sound, so I peek into my case's window (I thanked the Elder Gods for having a windowed case) and saw that the Delta Tri-Blade *was not spinning*. I shut down the rig ASAP.

The SI-128SE's heatpipes were *burning hot*; I've never felt heatpipes that hot. It's a good thing I've got lots of 120mm x 38mm high static pressure fans in my spares box, so I slap a new one on.

That's one hot story I'm not keen to hear about from any of you any time soon.









Wow man! I always thought that if the CPU fan failed you get some sort of audible warning, like beeping, through the pc speaker or something. Guess not huh? Do you think you did any permanent damage?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Nah, he didn't do any permanent damage...he was up and racing again in less than 30 minutes, lol.


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Nah, he didn't do any permanent damage...he was up and racing again in less than 30 minutes, lol.

Yeah I guess I forgot how resilient CPU's are these days! On sort of a side note at least we now know it's not a good idea to passively cool an overclocked Opteron!!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Iceman0803* 
Yeah I guess I forgot how resilient CPU's are these days! On sort of a side note at least we now know it's not a good idea to passively cool an overclocked Opteron!!









I honestly have no clue how he got such high temperatures. My opteron at 2.8 undervolted to 1.25v can run passive just fine....and loads at right around 70*C.


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I honestly have no clue how he got such high temperatures. My opteron at 2.8 undervolted to 1.25v can run passive just fine....and loads at right around 70*C.

Yours just may be more efficient when running fanless than his. At least that would be my guess.


----------



## Oscuro

Well, thought I'd share a pair of images of my Opty in it's new, and hopefully permanent home









It's spacious.....


















Oh yes, and my temps are now down to 22/30 or so at idle...still ramps up fairly high though, haven't run OCCT in a while. Tried 230 FSB, survived a 15 minute OCCT run, but crashed mid game in TF2. Knocked it down to 225. *sighs and waits for his new fans*


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I honestly have no clue how he got such high temperatures. My opteron at 2.8 undervolted to 1.25v can run passive just fine....and loads at right around 70*C.


Mine would start screaming bloodly murder at me. I have it set in the BIOS to alert over 60Âº C.

Personally, I do not THINK it will ever get that high anyway, but you never know.


----------



## thlnk3r

Oscuro, that is one spacious case


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Iceman0803*


Yours just may be more efficient when running fanless than his. At least that would be my guess.


Iceman, pioneerdoesdonuts, I had my headphones on, so if my rig was beeping at me in distress, I couldn't have heard.









Also, the reason for such high temps on mine is the ambient temperature here. During that race, my ambient was at 28 degs C (around 84 degs F).

I have the misfortune of having the warmest bedroom/computer location in this club, methinks...


----------



## Blitz6804

You may be right. (Then again, I may be crazy.)

Iandroo888 has central air I think, and even though my apartment complex has not filled the compressor outside yet, I am not getting too much over 23Âº C. Granted, in order to accomplish this, all windows are shut, blinds and drapes drawn, and the only light in my living room is my case and monitor. I have the light on in the kitchen so it is not so dark, but that is fluorescent.


----------



## Daemonix

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=349451

Not bad at semi-stock voltage. 1.408


----------



## Oscuro

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Oscuro, that is one spacious case









Yeah....very spacious. It makes me want to do something with all of the bare space above the board. Perhaps I should paint the damned thing.
I have a feeling that this case may get W/C at some point....but that will likely be a year or so down the road.


----------



## Drizzt5

I got an Opty 180, or now my mom has it i should say.

It used to be in my rig but I converted my old rig into my Mommy's compy







... Hmm i should have a pic of the case i put it in, rofl... h/o










The pink one is my mom's and the other one is my old case that i had...

i really loved s939... just had to upgrade though.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Drizzt5, we'd love to add you as a member of our club.









If you can post (or PM me) with a CPU-Z validation link of your (or your mom's?







) S939 rig, we'll add you to the *club member roster*. If that's no longer possible, just let me know via PM, and I'll add you as a *S939 Nostalgic* member.

Speaking of rosters, please have a peek at the "new look" roster, as formatted by our club scribe, blitz6804. Do drop him a line and thank him for keeping us tracking right!


----------



## Blitz6804

It only took me four hours to do this time!

Change list:
All names were changed to alphabetical order.
All links to the forum are now of "single post" timbre.
Speeds are now listed in megahertz.
A join date has been added.*
*NOTE: for those of you who have your date partially replaced with "xx," please bear with me. There is a limitation on the forum regards dating, that is, I can accurately tell the date for posts five weeks old or older, or for posts newer than a week old. For those in the middle, I can only tell what week it was made. As your post gets bumped older, I can have txtmstrjoe fix it. Specifically, that is:
-Inferno (03/xx/2008)
boonie2 (03/xx/2008)
Daemonix (04/xx/2008)
serioussam (03/xx/2008)
JoBlo69 (03/xx/2008)
Mootsfox (04/xx/2008)

As for justedbin (xx/xx/2008) and sgtdisturbed47 (xx/xx/2008), I have no clue when they joined. I did not see any posts from them in the thread with my quick browse through, I may find under a tighter scrutiny at a later date.

And yes, I know I listed a few Opterons as Toledos: blame their CPU-Z links. I will get that fixed later.

P.S. for Iandroo888: Yes, you did suggest that we call you Iron Chef. HOWEVER, I differentiated myself from your "Iron Chef" with the "Iron Chef Socket 939, Esquire" tomfoolery. Maybe we both be Iron Chefs? You are "Iron Chef Asianic nVidia Socket 939" and I be "Iron Chef Continental ATI Socket 939, Esquire"? We cool?

EDIT: I found justedbin (02-15-08) and sgtdisturbed47 (02-25-08). Would it have killed me to search harder the first time? Probably not. Oh well, live and learn.
EDIT2: I also bolded people's names now and fixed the Denmark/Toledo identity crisis. The roster is in Joe's hands as of this edit.


----------



## boonie2

Great job Blitz


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


It only took me four hours to do this time!

Change list:
All names were changed to alphabetical order.
All links to the forum are now of "single post" timbre.
Speeds are now listed in megahertz.
A join date has been added.*
*NOTE: for those of you who have your date partially replaced with "xx," please bear with me. There is a limitation on the forum regards dating, that is, I can accurately tell the date for posts five weeks old or older, or for posts newer than a week old. For those in the middle, I can only tell what week it was made. As your post gets bumped older, I can have txtmstrjoe fix it. Specifically, that is:
-Inferno (03/xx/2008)
boonie2 (03/xx/2008)
Daemonix (04/xx/2008)
serioussam (03/xx/2008)
JoBlo69 (03/xx/2008)
Mootsfox (04/xx/2008)

As for justedbin (xx/xx/2008) and sgtdisturbed47 (xx/xx/2008), I have no clue when they joined. I did not see any posts from them in the thread with my quick browse through, I may find under a tighter scrutiny at a later date.

And yes, I know I listed a few Opterons as Toledos: blame their CPU-Z links. I will get that fixed later.

P.S. for Iandroo888: Yes, you did suggest that we call you Iron Chef. HOWEVER, I differentiated myself from your "Iron Chef" with the "Iron Chef Socket 939, Esquire" tomfoolery. Maybe we both be Iron Chefs? You are "Iron Chef Asianic nVidia Socket 939" and I be "Iron Chef Continental ATI Socket 939, Esquire"? We cool?

EDIT: I found justedbin (02-15-08) and sgtdisturbed47 (02-25-08). Would it have killed me to search harder the first time? Probably not. Oh well, live and learn.
EDIT2: I also bolded people's names now and fixed the Denmark/Toledo identity crisis. The roster is in Joe's hands as of this edit.


LOL asianic nvidia socket 939 and continental ati socket 939,.... esquire?? why u need esquire? lol..

hmm.. how about.. Sir Iron Chef Asian nVidia Skt 939, VIII.

i dont know.. lemme think of something.. lol.. VIII because i like 8. lol

or... *edit* Sir Iron Chef Chinese CMXXXIX


----------



## Drizzt5

Ok-z

I actually DO have a screenshot that i just came across....
It's at stock because my mom has no need for a 3.4ghz opty 180...


----------



## boonie2

Anyone know the BEST replacement fan for my north bridge? its not dying YET but my rpms are starting to go from 5000 down to 3500 . up and down .. no noises yet or anything but the boards almost 2 yrs old and id rather replace it before it goes...I looked at the vantec iceburq but does anyone else know of any others? {has to be low profile because of the gpu , evga 8800gt {in rma}} dont think i want to do passive more compfortable with the fan...thanks guys {and ladies}


----------



## boonie2

WELCOME Drizzt5


----------



## Blitz6804

I do not know what is the "best" replacement for your northbridge heatsink.

However, newegg finds a tempting answer (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835425007) that may fit your needs.

I have had good luck with another cooler (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835226019) but I fear that may be too big for your case.

And Drizzt5, welcome to the club. If she has no need for that much speed, care to swap her Denny 180 for my Toledo 4400? My multiplier is holding me back!


----------



## iandroo888

http://www.overclock.net/wanted/3221...heck-list.html

check this thread out. looking for a buncho stuff. see if anyone of you guys have anything i need. thx =P

*edit*

i am now Raiden







more diversity in the MK world within the 939 world. LOL


----------



## Blitz6804

Speaking of Mortal Kombat, anyone see the newest game in production?

Mortal Kombat vs. DC Comics

How I found out about it:

Bigger Than Cheeses' comic on the subject.


----------



## iandroo888

heard DC wont allow their characters to be "portrayed" MK style with all the blood and fatalities... so its gonna be like toned down


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Please welcome Drizzt5 as a member of our Club! His name is now on our "new and improved" reformatted roster, courtesy of the one and only Sub-Zero.









iandroo, love the new Raiden avatar.







After Scorpion, he's my favorite Mortal Kombat character. He's simply electric!

boonie, have you considered going fanless for the Thermalright HR-05-SLI? Per Thermalright's own motherboard compatibility chart, your motherboard should be able to accept it with no problems.

Good luck to your search for a replacement!


----------



## Oscuro

*hums along to the fans* You know? I think I need more case fans. My poor GTX is hitting 72 degrees at only 615/1441 core/shader clocks while running ATI Tool!

I really need to get a thermometer to see what my ambients are....

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*
boonie, have you considered going fanless for the Thermalright HR-05-SLI? Per Thermalright's own motherboard compatibility chart, your motherboard should be able to accept it with no problems.

Hmmm....maybe I should grab one of those too....


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Please welcome Drizzt5 as a member of our Club! His name is now on our "new and improved" reformatted roster, courtesy of the one and only Sub-Zero.









iandroo, love the new Raiden avatar.







After Scorpion, he's my favorite Mortal Kombat character. He's simply electric!

boonie, have you considered going fanless for the Thermalright HR-05-SLI? Per Thermalright's own motherboard compatibility chart, your motherboard should be able to accept it with no problems.

Good luck to your search for a replacement!

BZZT! wish i can do that sparky thing that raiden does with his eyes.. =P would be so cool! haha


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I love the sparkly eyes, the yells he makes when attacking, the straw hat (!), and the power to teleport!


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Please welcome Drizzt5 as a member of our Club! His name is now on our "new and improved" reformatted roster, courtesy of the one and only Sub-Zero.









As usual, there was a broken link. He is repairing now.

I just noticed something interesting on the roster:

*diblaz* (04/15/2008): Athlon64 X2 4800+ Toledo @ 2411 MHz BONE STOCK








*Drizzt5* (04/20/2008): Opteron 180 Denmark @ 2411 MHz BONE STOCK








What are the odds!?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I do have to live up to my Custom User Title (that thing under my username).


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 









I love the sparkly eyes, the yells he makes when attacking, the straw hat (!), and the power to teleport!

lol straw hat is great but i love how the one hes wearing in my avatar.. its looks like a metal hat with a sharpened edge







but keeps the straw hat design haha


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
lol straw hat is great but i love how the one hes wearing in my avatar.. its looks like a metal hat with a sharpened edge







but keeps the straw hat design haha

Golly gee, you're right!

He stole Kung Lao's head gear!


----------



## Blitz6804

Screen-shoted for austerity:


----------



## txtmstrjoe

^^ NICE!


----------



## Blitz6804

I would like it on record that I think the club's official sound track should be _Tubthumping_ by Chumbawamba:

"I get knocked down, but I get up again, you ain't never keep me down!"

It perfectly describes AMD versus Intel.


----------



## iandroo888

LOL oh man thats an old song @[email protected]


----------



## GuardianOdin

eye of the tiger!....now that's an awesome song.


----------



## euphoricmix

I think it should be a 2 Live Crew classic....

_Suck my #[email protected]*, and I will eat your %$*@#_

Not for any reason other then it is totally awesome. [/joke]


----------



## Rolandooo

Nice to see how friendly everybody is here









I still have my an8-sli with a 3200+ @ 2.5ghz at the moment for my brothers rig. Maybe when I get some extra cash, I plan on getting him a opty 165. Then again I am not sure how far that mobo will take it.


----------



## xXDarkenSoulXx

I wana join!
My 939:Stock, no oc


----------



## Blitz6804

All you need is to hook us up with some method of validation Rolandooo and you are in. Thanks again for all your help in my AMD X2 4400+ thread.

Regards xXDarkenSoulXx:

Welcome to the club! I just forwarded your link to Joe to post.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rolandooo* 
Nice to see how friendly everybody is here









I still have my an8-sli with a 3200+ @ 2.5ghz at the moment for my brothers rig. Maybe when I get some extra cash, I plan on getting him a opty 165. Then again I am not sure how far that mobo will take it.

Yeah, we're all friendly.

Except for pioneer and thlnk3r. Bunch of snobs, they are.

And blitz. Him, especially.

And iandroo. And GuardianOdin. And froggy.

Everybody else is gold, though.

Especially the dude with the Scorpion avatar breaking roster links all the time...


----------



## Oscuro

I am solid gold man


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Oscuro* 
I am solid gold man









Oh ya.

Oscuro's one of the few good guys here.

Everyone else I named, though...


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Yeah, we're all friendly.

Especially NOT the dude with the Scorpion avatar breaking roster links all the time...

And blitz. Him, especially.

Everybody else is gold, though.

like pioneer and thlnk3r And iandroo. And GuardianOdin. And froggy. and Oscuro .etc










corrected.


----------



## Rolandooo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
All you need is to hook us up with some method of validation Rolandooo and you are in. Thanks again for all your help in my AMD X2 4400+ thread.

Regards xXDarkenSoulXx:

Welcome to the club! I just forwarded your link to Joe to post.


Yeah no problem man, nice to see your progress.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Yeah, we're all friendly.

Except for pioneer and thlnk3r. Bunch of snobs, they are.

And blitz. Him, especially.

And iandroo. And GuardianOdin. And froggy.

Everybody else is gold, though.

Especially the dude with the Scorpion avatar breaking roster links all the time...










Lmao!

Heres a SS for my validation. I think this is the highest it will go stable. He needs a Dual Core and a opty 165 would be perfect.
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=349603


----------



## txtmstrjoe

^^ What the..?










Edit: This was aimed at iandroo, not at Rolandoo.

"We go waaaay back, Lando and me..."

(In another club, from a galaxy far, far away...)


----------



## iandroo888

whats wrong with his screenshot ??


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
whats wrong with his screenshot ??

Nothing wrong with his screenie.

Check edit, por favor.

By the way, please welcome our two newest members, xXDarkenSoulXx and Rolandoo!


----------



## Rolandooo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
whats wrong with his screenshot ??

Wait what? lol I am confused now... Are you asking txtmstjoe?

EDIT: NVM I see what you mean now, I am slow today.


----------



## GuardianOdin

LOL...I'm a great guy!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rolandooo* 
Wait what? lol I am confused now... Are you asking txtmstjoe?

Yes.

iandroo is "Quick Draw McGraw" in these parts.

"Faster than a speeding edit... Cooks better than Rachel Ray... Able to leap tall anthills with a couple of bounds...

"It's a stove... it's a wok...

"It's *IANDROO*!"


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Yes.

iandroo is "Quick Draw McGraw" in these parts.

"Faster than a speeding edit... Cooks better than Rachel Ray... Able to leap tall anthills with a couple of bounds...

"It's a stove... it's a wok...

"It's *IANDROO*!"










just had a flash back to OLD school Superman cartoons


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Please welcome Drizzt5 as a member of our Club! His name is now on our "new and improved" reformatted roster, courtesy of the one and only Sub-Zero.









iandroo, love the new Raiden avatar.







After Scorpion, he's my favorite Mortal Kombat character. He's simply electric!

boonie, have you considered going fanless for the Thermalright HR-05-SLI? Per Thermalright's own motherboard compatibility chart, your motherboard should be able to accept it with no problems.

Good luck to your search for a replacement!

Yes i concidered going passive but it couldnt be very tall in order to clear my GPU , dont know if it would be enough , thats why im looking for the best low profile fan


----------



## dskina

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Yes.

iandroo is "Quick Draw McGraw" in these parts.

"Faster than a speeding edit... Cooks better than Rachel Ray... Able to leap tall anthills with a couple of bounds...

"It's a stove... it's a wok...

"It's *IANDROO*!"










Anyone can cook better than Rachel Ray...


----------



## Rolandooo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Yes.

iandroo is "Quick Draw McGraw" in these parts.

"Faster than a speeding edit... Cooks better than Rachel Ray... Able to leap tall anthills with a couple of bounds...

"It's a stove... it's a wok...

"It's *IANDROO*!"










Lol







btw iandroo888 I mail out your Applique tomorrow.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rolandooo* 
Nice to see how friendly everybody is here









I still have my an8-sli with a 3200+ @ 2.5ghz at the moment for my brothers rig. Maybe when I get some extra cash, I plan on getting him a opty 165. Then again I am not sure how far that mobo will take it.

Itll take it







........... And welcome to the group


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dskina* 
Anyone can cook better than Rachel Ray...




















I wonder who's cuter, though...


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Yes.

iandroo is "Quick Draw McGraw" in these parts.

"Faster than a speeding edit... Cooks better than Rachel Ray... Able to leap tall anthills with a couple of bounds...

"It's a stove... it's a wok...

"It's *IANDROO*!"


----------



## Rolandooo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


Itll take it







........... And welcome to the group










heh that motherboard caused me all kinds of trouble! I couldnt get my opty 185 past 2.8 with that mobo I think. (It overvolts like crazy) I found heaven when I purchased the DFI nF4 Ultra-D


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Cooks better than Rachel Ray...


Does not take much...


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rolandooo*


heh that motherboard caused me all kinds of trouble! I couldnt get my opty 185 past 2.8 with that mobo I think. (It overvolts like crazy) I found heaven when I purchased the DFI nF4 Ultra-D


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Yes.

iandroo is "Quick Draw McGraw" in these parts.

"Faster than a speeding edit... Cooks better than Rachel Ray... Able to leap tall anthills with a couple of bounds...

"It's a stove... it's a wok...

"It's *IANDROO*!"











LOL!! HAHAHAHA wait HEY! i can jump T_T i can clear tennis court nets T_T







(yah i play tennis)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


just had a flash back to OLD school Superman cartoons


same

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dskina*


Anyone can cook better than Rachel Ray...











haha! forget 30 minutes. 30 minutes of unflavorful nasty fudz. we cook stuff fresh and flavorful in the whatever amount of time we desire! LOL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rolandooo*


Lol







btw iandroo888 I mail out your Applique tomorrow.










oh hello







thx again







yah rolandooo is a good guy. cant wait to put that on my rig. how u sending it btw?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*











I wonder who's cuter, though...


*shrugs* *looks in mirror* not me.. lol

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


































as well haha

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Does not take much...


certainly the chili u showed me got beaten by rachel ray's haha! i kid! i kid! ur cooking isnt that bad! well wait. none of us have tried it.. so i guess it could be worse than rachel rays.. lol


----------



## Oscuro

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
Yes i concidered going passive but it couldnt be very tall in order to clear my GPU , dont know if it would be enough , thats why im looking for the best low profile fan

http://www.overclockersonline.net/?p...num=641&pnum=6

Boonie, it is offset, and can be mounted in 3 directions (Technically 4, but the 4th just is pointless







)

It was designed to work with GFX cards that overhang the NB, so it could possibly help you, depending upon just how your card is situated on the motherboard.


----------



## Rolandooo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
oh hello







thx again







yah rolandooo is a good guy. cant wait to put that on my rig. how u sending it btw?

I am mailing it in a basic envelope. It will be good







I am unsure when you will get it though. I will hand it to my mailman tomorrow.


----------



## iandroo888

oh no USPS! DONT LOSE IT! :[ will put it on rig as soon as i get it!


----------



## Daemonix

Turns out I'm going Watercooled. Just ordered all the stuff, and it should be here in 4-5 days. Also, as a bonus, I'm looking to upgrade my fx-57, so, I might as well push it hard for it's last run to see what I can really get out of it. I'll keep you guys posted.


----------



## Rolandooo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
oh no USPS! DONT LOSE IT! :[ will put it on rig as soon as i get it!









You will get it dont worry







but I have to admit when I ship things USPS overseas or to Canada I get nervous.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Daemonix* 
Turns out I'm going Watercooled. Just ordered all the stuff, and it should be here in 4-5 days. Also, as a bonus, I'm looking to upgrade my fx-57, so, I might as well push it hard for it's last run to see what I can really get out of it. I'll keep you guys posted.









Schweeeeeet.

I'm sure blitzen will be correcting my roster revision when you send your new CPU-Z validation in.


----------



## Rolandooo

Hey guys just to let you know you put me on the list with a 3500+. Its a 3200+







just a heads up.


----------



## Blitz6804

Eventually, I hope you'll learn how to do it yourself.

<INSIDE_JOKE>

VENICE!

</INSIDE_JOKE>


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Sub-Zero!

Get to work, will ya!


----------



## GuardianOdin

watercooled.....been thinking I should do that. BUT I kind of wanted to wait until I am able to build a new rig. The promise of a nice cool 3Ghz system does sound nice.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Heh, I'd love to have one of my rigs going water, but I'm a little worried about it going swimming...









Roster corrected. My apologies, Rolandoo.









I've got to stop living up to my custom user title...


----------



## Rolandooo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Heh, I'd love to have one of my rigs going water, but I'm a little worried about it going swimming...









Roster corrected. My apologies, Rolandoo.









I've got to stop living up to my custom user title...









Thank you sir!

Honestly if you take your time with clamping the tubing, and leak testing you should be fine







I was very nervous whenever I made the jump to water but it was well worth it, and it looks "Pretty"


----------



## iandroo888

ill make the jump to water if i have the money. seeing those water blocks being so expensive and rad's being so big makes me hesistant. how loud are LCS's ? i see ppl using like hella high CFM fans on the rads. gotta be loud


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rolandooo* 
Thank you sir!

Honestly if you take your time with clamping the tubing, and leak testing you should be fine







I was very nervous whenever I made the jump to water but it was well worth it, and it looks "Pretty"









I'll give you that.

When looking at all those tubes, I can't help but think that the machine looks alive. Especially with reddish coolant.


----------



## Rolandooo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
ill make the jump to water if i have the money. seeing those water blocks being so expensive and rad's being so big makes me hesistant. how loud are LCS's ? i see ppl using like hella high CFM fans on the rads. gotta be loud

My w/c setup is pretty noisy, I went more for the performance approach than the "Silent" lol I am using 3 of these on my radiator 120mm x 38mm Sunon and my radiator is outside the case also.

I am sure there are better fans though, I just didn't ask enough questions when I set up my w/c loop. I don't mind the extra noise though.


----------



## iandroo888

i want performance and low noise! LOL. im already complaining about the noise my fans make now LOL


----------



## Rolandooo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
i want performance and low noise! LOL. im already complaining about the noise my fans make now LOL

Lmao yea I am sure there are quiet fans with great performance. Like I said I never asked any questions regarding that. I also like all the space inside my case, I would hate having a HUGE hs that could possibly break the mobo


----------



## Oscuro

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
ill make the jump to water if i have the money. seeing those water blocks being so expensive and rad's being so big makes me hesistant. how loud are LCS's ? i see ppl using like hella high CFM fans on the rads. gotta be loud

From what researched so far, there are two primary styles of rads:
Low CFM/Low Density and High CFM/High density. Low CFM rads are designed to use low CFM fans for good to moderate performance with a lower fin-per inch density; using the sheer fin area of the rad to transfer the heat into the surrounding air. The combination of a great suface area, and some very low rpm/low cfm fans can make a very quiet cooling solution.

High CFM/High Density rads have a greater density of fins per inch, and thus require higher CFM/Higher pressure rated fans to perform, but due to their extra heat transferring area, they can greatly reduce load temps, and keep delta temps ridiculously small.

In the end, all a LCS is, is a very over the top HSF, with the Liquid and tubes acting as Heat pipes to carry the heat away from the waterblock to the radiating area.


----------



## Blitz6804

I would like to suggest to txtmstrjoe that we add Real-Time High Dynamic Range Image-Based Lighting v1.2 ["rthdribl"] to the "Links to Recommended Stress Testing Programs and Overclocking Tools" section.

Sure, our CPUs are all stable, but what of our video cards? Rthdribl does to your GPU what the S&M CPU battery does to your CPU. It is the fastest way to find GPU instability and/or artifacts.

To use, just turn on all the eye candy (AA, Filtering, etc) and increase the resolution until you are at 99.5% or more GPU load. Be forewarned, try to exceed 100%, and the program will crash.

Watch your GPU temps, because this sucker really roasts them.


----------



## Rolandooo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I would like to suggest to txtmstrjoe that we add Real-Time High Dynamic Range Image-Based Lighting v1.2 ["rthdribl"] to the "Links to Recommended Stress Testing Programs and Overclocking Tools" section.

Sure, our CPUs are all stable, but what of our video cards? Rthdribl does to your GPU what the S&M CPU battery does to your CPU. It is the fastest way to find GPU instability and/or artifacts.

To use, just turn on all the eye candy (AA, Filtering, etc) and increase the resolution until you are at 99.5% or more GPU load. Be forewarned, try to exceed 100%, and the program will crash.

Watch your GPU temps, because this sucker really roasts them.

I tried this a week ago since I seen a trusted member recommend it and I never heard of it before. Well I really prefer this over ATItool now.


----------



## Blitz6804

ATI Tool is, as pioneer would say, less stable than Britney Spears on my computer.

I need to use the 0.27 Beta 4 so it will recognize my card (HD 3850 chipset). It actually overclocks inferiorly to CCC, and if I try to stress test while not stock, the whole thing locks up.


----------



## Rolandooo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


ATI Tool is, as pioneer would say, less stable than Britney Spears on my computer.

I need to use the 0.27 Beta 4 so it will recognize my card (HD 3850 chipset). It actually overclocks inferiorly to CCC, and if I try to stress test while not stock, the whole thing locks up.


lol

Have you tried using Rivatuner to OC the card?


----------



## Blitz6804

I use CCC. My best performance is at 709/939 (and not the max 720/950). Auto tuner actually pointed that out to me, and I gained 1000 3DMarks for it.


----------



## Rolandooo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I use CCC. My best performance is at 709/939 (and not the max 720/950). Auto tuner actually pointed that out to me, and I gained 1000 3DMarks for it.


Very nice! And this with a AGP card







Impressive. Glad to see ATI made a HD 3 series for AGP.


----------



## Blitz6804

They did not. It is a Sapphire Tech card. I have to say, so far, I have been disappointed with the software end of the spectrum. It plays much less friendily than my Visiontek x1950XGE AGP did. I am now on my fourth CCC installation.

When it works though, man, it smokes.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I'm a fan of fans. I've built up a small (but growing) collection of 120mm fans, and I've got a bit of a selection of 120mm x 38mm fans for CPU cooling duties.

Rolandoo, one of my current favorites is the Scythe Ultra Kaze. I use the 3000RPM model. It's the quietest 120mm x 38mm fan I've found so far.







Furthermore, I find it's not losing anything in terms of cooling ability on my SI-128SE compared to even more monstrously powerful fans, like that Delta Tri-Blade EFB1312VHE that died on me the other night...


----------



## iandroo888

how loud is that ultra kaze?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
how loud is that ultra kaze?

At full tilt 3000RPM boogie? Not as loud as other fans I've tested.

(Sorry I can't give actual decibel measurements; don't got the equipment for that...)









It's a whooshing sound, with a little hint of fan motor noise. Other fans, such as the Delta FFB1212VHE (nine blades with a bunch of directional vanes on the exhaust side), are far noisier. The Delta FFB1212VHE is probably the noisiest fan I've got. Loud motor, lots of air turbulence, but quite effective.


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
*I'm a fan of fans. I've built up a small (but growing) collection of 120mm fans*, and I've got a bit of a selection of 120mm x 38mm fans for CPU cooling duties.

Rolandoo, one of my current favorites is the Scythe Ultra Kaze. I use the 3000RPM model. It's the quietest 120mm x 38mm fan I've found so far.







Furthermore, I find it's not losing anything in terms of cooling ability on my SI-128SE compared to even more monstrously powerful fans, like that Delta Tri-Blade EFB1312VHE that died on me the other night...

You should start a fan fan club you know for people who are fans of fans







..........geez I'm ******ed sometimes.....lol


----------



## iandroo888

very. lol.

got any yate loons to compare to?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Wow, loads have been going on here today!

Rolandoo....
WHERE THE HECK IS YOUR OPTY 180? Jeez.

*AND I CAN BE FRIENDLY DAMMIT. WHO SAID I'M NOT? WHO SAID IT!!!!!!????? I'LL KICK YOUR BUTT!!!!*

And I is the bestest chef here, so quit arguing! I flip some of the best burgers in town!









Okay, enough joking, lol. Welcome to the new additions (just not Rolandoo








). Enjoy your stay.


----------



## Rolandooo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Wow, loads have been going on here today!

Rolandoo....
WHERE THE HECK IS YOUR OPTY 180? Jeez.

*AND I CAN BE FRIENDLY DAMMIT. WHO SAID I'M NOT? WHO SAID IT!!!!!!????? I'LL KICK YOUR BUTT!!!!*

And I is the bestest chef here, so quit arguing! I flip some of the best burgers in town!









Okay, enough joking, lol. Welcome to the new additions (just not Rolandoo







). Enjoy your stay.

Lmao! Thank you for the warm welcome









The opty is lone gone







but I plan to have a opty 165 take over my 3200+ place, whenever I have the extra cash. I really cannot wait


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well, my question to you sir:

Why is your 180 long gone? What'd you do? Poor Opty!!!!

****Note to self, never let Rolandoo touch my Opty







.****

Wow, I'm quite evil today! (shrugs).


----------



## Rolandooo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Well, my question to you sir:

Why is your 180 long gone? What'd you do? Poor Opty!!!!

****Note to self, never let Rolandoo touch my Opty







.****

Wow, I'm quite evil today! (shrugs).

lol don't worry it didn't light up on fire







I actually got a great price for it. I sold it for $230 (it was a opty 185) a offer I couldn't refuse.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rolandooo* 
lol don't worry it didn't light up on fire







I actually got a great price for it. I sold it for $230 (it was a opty 185) a offer I couldn't refuse.

Very true, that is an excellent price for it. Too bad you sold it







. Oh well. Hope your hunt for a 165/170 turns out well







!


----------



## Rolandooo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Very true, that is an excellent price for it. Too bad you sold it







. Oh well. Hope your hunt for a 165/170 turns out well







!

I was sad when I sold it, but also happy! Happy because thanks to OCN, now I know I can get a opty 165 and OC it to the same, and save money


----------



## JoBlo69

You so need to add me to the list....

I just got my DFI Expert rig up and running again. Specs below...

DFI 939 Expert Motherboard
Opty 170 at 2.8Ghz w/stock cooler
1gb kit or Giel ONE multi spec DDR (DDR400 cas1.5 ~~ DDR650 cas4)
XFX 7600GT
200gb sata HDD
400w PSU

I think i want to add some 160gb segate drives in some sort of raid to take advantage of the 8 sata ports on this thing...

Also thinking about going with a 9600GT SLI setup here in the next few weeks!!


----------



## pioneerisloud

JoBlo:
We'll need a CPUz Validation link or screenshot to officially add you to the roster







. You can post it here, or PM it to myself, txtmstrjoe, or thlnk3r, and it will be added to the roster. Looks to be a massive gamer for being a Socket 939! Can't wait to hear about it in action!


----------



## Blitz6804

Well pioneerisloud, he would not be added to the roster. He would be migrated from a nostalgic to an active owner as soon as we get a validation link, a readable screen cap, et cetera.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Iceman0803* 
You should start a fan fan club you know for people who are fans of fans







..........geez I'm ******ed sometimes.....lol









A Fan Fan Club, eh?

Hmmm...









Hehe, on a lark, perhaps we ought to compile a list of fans we've all played with/used for heatsink duty.

When I get home, I'll start on compiling a personal list. Be warned, though: It's a fairly LONG list...

@ JoBlo: Sweet. Good to see you're getting back in touch with S939. With an EXCELLENT motherboard, too, I see! As pioneer and blitz have said, I'll add you to the roster of regulars (and move you from the Nostalgics section) when we have your CPU-Z validation.







Easy, huh?

Nice to see we have a plethora of kitchen masters here. Y'all can feed thlnk3r. Remember when he said his nickname was gonna be "thlnk3rbell"? It's because he's TINY...









Boy needs to eat!


----------



## thlnk3r

Welcome to the thread Rolandooo ( sorry for the late reply







)

Joe, in regards to the feeding comment...I had 4 taco's last night isn't that enough?


----------



## iandroo888

4 tacos? weak! tacos are like tiny lol. u can start by eating like a 24oz porterhouse steak (in 1 meal.. not split into like 6 >_>)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
4 tacos? weak! tacos are like tiny lol. u can start by eating like a 24oz porterhouse steak (in 1 meal.. not split into like 6 >_>)

Iandroo, these were homemade taco's so I was able to modify the size.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

WOW.

I want to see pictures of thlnk3r's overclocked tacos!


----------



## iandroo888

still. home made. taco bell. del taco. still limited to the size. unless it was a burrito, then thats a different story.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I think our next Club Contest (or Klub Kontest, per the MK theme) should be a cook-off!


----------



## iandroo888

To determine who will reign supreme in the culinary arts...

"Ale Cuisine!" -- Chairman of Iron Chef


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I think our next Club Contest (or Klub Kontest, per the MK theme) should be a cook-off!


Joe, let's have BEST LOOKING TACO contest


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Joe, let's have BEST LOOKING TACO contest










I volunteer to be a judge of that event!


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


To determine who will reign supreme in the culinary arts...

"Ale Cuisine!" -- Chairman of Iron Chef










Or perhaps, "Allez cuisine!"

Which is French for:

"Go to the kitchen!" or "Go cook!" where "go" is in the command form here.


----------



## Rolandooo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, let's have BEST LOOKING TACO contest









Pssst I have to be able to taste test though







all this talk about tacos earlier made me hungry!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rolandooo* 
Pssst I have to be able to taste test though







all this talk about tacos earlier made me hungry!

Hmmm... me too, Rolandooo. I'm fixin' to have some grub for lunch.


----------



## iandroo888

im eating a sub right now. haha


----------



## DanDaManZ06

May i join the club


----------



## iandroo888

hey! a BONE STOCK







fx-60







did u ever try overclocking it?

just wondering. i got an fx-60 and can only get to like 2.8







pretty depressing imo


----------



## boonie2

Welcome DandamanZ06


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DanDaManZ06*


May i join the club


Of course not! This is the socket 939 appreciation club and knowledgebase. Did you really think we would accept your Toledo FX-60? I mean seriously? People today...

I kid DanDaManZ06. Welcome to the club! *Fluffles*

Joe will get on the roster shortly I am sure.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Of course not! This is the socket 939 appreciation club and knowledgebase. Did you really think we would accept your Toledo FX-60? I mean seriously? People today...

I kid DanDaManZ06. Welcome to the club! *Fluffles*

Joe will get on the roster shortly I am sure.


hes not kidding. he hates you already. if he doesnt, why would he think of such a "joke"









just remember. blitz = evil









everyone else like me, pioneerisloud, froggy, txtmstrjoe, th1nk3r, etc = all nice :]


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


hes not kidding. he hates you already. if he doesnt, why would he think of such a "joke"









just remember. blitz = evil









everyone else like me, pioneerisloud, froggy, txtmstrjoe, th1nk3r, etc = all nice :]


OUCH....................


----------



## iandroo888

o btw. nice oc so far boonie2. just noticed that. 486.6 = memory speed? thats sweet if it is! what temps r u getting so far?


----------



## boonie2

Thanx IAN {







} i think thats the limit , cant get it to go any higher and stay stable , Idles around 35-36 loads never over 50 , added another fan on the back of my freezer pro so that helped the temps


----------



## Blitz6804

I gotta ask boonie: how is the performance with 3x1024? I would have though the loss of DDR to be fatal? Do you have any bandwidth tests?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

DanDaManZ06, you are now part of the tribe.

blitz is definitely evil. But endearingly so.

And Joe (me) is only sometimes evil. You'll know when Evil Joe makes an appearance.









Muhahahahahahaha


----------



## thlnk3r

Welcome DanDamanZ06 to the thread









Joe, that first sentence reminded me of Return of the Jedi


----------



## Blitz6804

Here is one for you:

Why do they call it a "grilled cheese sandwich" if it is oft made in a pan or on a griddle? Should not it be a "pan-fried cheese sandwich" or a "griddled cheese sandwich" since we are not employing a grill?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Here is one for you:

Why do they call it a "grilled cheese sandwich" if it is oft made in a pan or on a griddle? Should not it be a "pan-fried cheese sandwich" or a "griddled cheese sandwich" since we are not employing a grill?


It's called a "grilled cheese sandwich" because "grilled" is far easier and faster to spell than "pan-fried" or "griddled." Moreover, it's faster to say "grilled" versus the other options.

You just want to hurry up and eat it!


----------



## Blitz6804

Already ate. Even an Iron Chef Continental ATI Skt939, Esquire gets tired of cooking sometimes. N'est pas Iron Chef CMXXXIX?

Tomorrow I am thinking I will probably make penne ala vodka unless there are any serious objections.

Hm... I feel sheepish. Up until about thirty seconds ago, I had a broken link in my sig... Ironically, it was the link to txtmstrjoe's profile.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Already ate. Even an Iron Chef Continental ATI Skt939, Esquire gets tired of cooking sometimes. N'est pas Iron Chef CMXXXIX?

Tomorrow I am thinking I will probably make penne ala vodka unless there are any serious objections.

Hm... I feel sheepish. Up until about thirty seconds ago, I had a broken link in my sig... Ironically, it was the link to txtmstrjoe's profile.












You finally found it, huh?









I'd been wondering how long it would take you to see that.









Ooh... pasta with vodka sounds interesting. I'm an almost total teetotaller; my uncle made me taste beer when I was three or so. Plus I've had champagne at weddings. Oh, and I had something called a "chi chi" when some old ex-workmates gave me a going-away party in 2001.


----------



## Blitz6804

Uh huh... sure you did.

Be aware that most of the ethanol from the Vodka cooks out.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Seriously!

I was actually embarrassed to see my name in your sig. Then curiosity got the better of me, and I ROFLed when it led to the void in the internet cosmos where the Nowhere Man lives.

Godstrewth, as they used to say...


----------



## Blitz6804

Would it have killed you to say something? Like, "Why are you always harping on me for breaking the roster when you cannot even get your own sig right?"

For that oversight, you must pay!

*Freezes txtmstrjoe, then shatters him.*

_Creepy background voice:_ "Sub-Zero wins! Flawless victory. FATALITY!"


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Ah, the advantage of being undead...

I *cannot* be killed!

The hellspawn shall rise once more! Muhahahahahahaha

(Insert Koin to Kontinue...)


----------



## froggy1986

[email protected] YOU GUYS, NOW I WANT TACOS!!!! mmmm.... pioneer is a very picky eater and even he loves my tacos, me thinks its taco's soon, just gotta go pick up some stew meat, lettuce, tomato, sour cream, a couple kinda of cheese, and some burrito tortillas, oh yeah and some onion... dangit now I'm really hungry. I'm never looking in this thread b4 eating again. Last time I did you guys were talking about burgers, now tacos. I'm gonna get fat with all this food talk.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *froggy1986*


[email protected] YOU GUYS, NOW I WANT TACOS!!!! mmmm.... pioneer is a very picky eater and even he loves my tacos, me thinks its taco's soon, just gotta go pick up some stew meat, lettuce, tomato, sour cream, a couple kinda of cheese, and some burrito tortillas, oh yeah and some onion... dangit now I'm really hungry. I'm never looking in this thread b4 eating again. Last time I did you guys were talking about burgers, now tacos. I'm gonna get fat with all this food talk.


Wait.

YOU cook?

I thought pioneer was the uber-cook here! He claimed that himself not too long ago. He ought to be the one cooking where you guys are!

Speaking of which, may I come over later? I like tacos!


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Wait.

YOU cook?

I thought pioneer was the uber-cook here! He claimed that himself not too long ago. He ought to be the one cooking where you guys are!

Speaking of which, may I come over later? I like tacos!










Yes I cook, I am the chick of the house, he wouldnt keep me around if I didnt at least do that much. He won't cook here unless wutever being cooked has microwave directions on it. 
As for coming over, sure if you really wanna, but not tonight, tacos can't be tonight, I'm making home made chicken strips tonight. Sadly tacos will have to wait







as we have nothing but the seasoning for them. (looks in freezer or deer or bison stew meat) Yeah we don't even have that right now, just chicken and roast, and I don't feel like cutting up the roast for tacos.


----------



## iandroo888

haha pioneer is only the god of flipping burgers. anything else = fail haha

chicken and roast sounds good. if u want, ill help cutting up the roast for tacos









*pulls out set of knifes collected over several years....* <== heart and soul of a japanese chef

*pulls out a cleaver* <== only thing needed for a chinese chef haha

*pulls out normal set of knifes* <= for everything else.

also.. must... resist.. to say something... about a line... froggy just said....... @[email protected]


----------



## froggy1986

As for right now, I will just leave them as roast. LOL I love my roast too. Thanks for the offer but I'm also too picky when I make my taco's I have to have everything just right or it doesn't taste the same. When I use stew meat the peices have to be pretty small... like dime size, thats alot of cutting on its own, I couldn't imagine making a roast into that small of peices, I would be eating tacos for a week...hmmm not to bad of an idea after all...lol


----------



## saywhuut

I still have ancient S754, can anyone know where I can find a cheap dual core 939 rig??


----------



## BinaryBird

Here is the link for CPU-Z http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=263481
Please add me to the group. Thanks.


----------



## iandroo888

man how much longer till the results get posted T_T

i cant even study for my ochem quiz cuz of the anticipation :[


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Iandroo, these were homemade taco's so I was able to *modify* the size.


----------



## iandroo888

lol.. theres another quote thats even more funny... will see if anyone notices it


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I gotta ask boonie: how is the performance with 3x1024? I would have though the loss of DDR to be fatal? Do you have any bandwidth tests?


Ive noticed its alittle snappier than the 2-1gb , response seems quicker to me . tried 4-1gb at 1 time , even tho windows could only see 3.5 i think...dont have any bandwidth tests ... just to me it seems to run faster .... so using 3-1gb and the other 1-gb is in karens computer


----------



## iandroo888

LOL NICE AVATAR !. sucks for the person whos using that one tho.. so small... blitz musta took that picture. bad quality picture and wierd cropping!

*edit* ok i couldnt hold back.. heres the quote i was talkin about

Quote:



Originally Posted by *froggy1986*


[email protected] YOU GUYS, NOW I WANT TACOS!!!! mmmm.... pioneer is a very picky eater and *he loves my taco*, me thinks its taco's soon, just gotta go pick up some stew meat, lettuce, tomato, sour cream, a couple kinda of cheese, and some burrito tortillas, oh yeah and some onion... dangit now I'm really hungry. I'm never looking in this thread b4 eating again. Last time I did you guys were talking about burgers, now tacos. I'm gonna get fat with all this food talk.


----------



## smb_

Ditto on the CPU-Z link

Sign me up!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Please welcome our newest member, smb_!









Howdy! And great job with that Opteron 180!


----------



## boonie2

WELCOME TO THE DARK SIDE "smb" alot of good people in here , have fun


----------



## Blitz6804

Yippie! Joe added rthdribl to the program list! Now maybe I will not be one of a few people using it to test VPU stability.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

The pains I go through to make you happy...










Actually, I recommend using a program like rthdribl. It doesn't really work as well as 3DMark0x as a benchmarking program per se, but it works a lot better as a graphics subsystem tester. If you care a lot about total system stability, it's a good program to use, I reckon.

Speaking of which, I'm not hip on how to use it properly. Sub-Zero, a short how-to, perhaps?


----------



## Blitz6804

Sure Scorps. Howto is now in progress.


----------



## iandroo888

*walks into the chat with lightning sparks surrounding body and eyes glowing white with lightning sparks as well*

whats up? so now contest finalization is basically just waiting for pioneer to get home and look over the final list?


----------



## boonie2

Pioneeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeer Where Are Youuuuuuuuuuuuuuu ??




























{homemade tacos perhaps?}


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


*walks into the chat with lightning sparks surrounding body and eyes glowing white with lightning sparks as well*

whats up? so now contest finalization is basically just waiting for pioneer to get home and look over the final list?


YES.

In truth, though, I am the winner.

I claim *FLAWLESS VICTORY*.

*FATALITY*


----------



## iandroo888

*shoots a thunder bolt at you* say that again?


----------



## Blitz6804

This "Howto" is for Windows XP. Vista may or may not need administrative privileges, I have not tried. As a standard liability abrogation, remember that IF you should happen to run this program, and IF it should happen to damage your video card (read: set on fire) or in any other way damage you, property, or some other third party, I, OCN, txtmstrjoe, and the Socket 939 Appreciation Club and Knowledgebase are all absolved of any liabilities, criminal or tortuous, as the result of YOUR voluntary actions. That said:

0) Download Real-Time High Dynamic Range Image-Based Lighting ["rthdribl"]
1) Close anything that taxes your video card (NOTE: you need not kill the systray nor disable CnQ since this is stress testing, not benchmarking; unless you want to I suppose)
2) Extract rthdribl_1_2.zip to a folder of your chosing
3) Open whatever program you wish to use to monitor GPU temperatures and load
4) Execute rthdribl.exe
5) Go to options, ensure that Fresnel Effect, Fill, and Detail Maps are all enabled
6) Under "Multisample," select as high of AA as you think your PC can handle; higher is better
7) Take note of what GPU load you have, if not between 99 and 100%, make the window larger
8) Note: the window ratio is irrelevant, as long as the size is sufficient; go too large, and you will get a "ran out of video memory" error
9) Find the size (and shape?) that works for you, and walk off for an hour or longer
10) After an hour, view the picture carefully for artifacts and/or errors; take note of your GPU temperatures
11) If you are pulling in a good FPS with clear pictures and low temperatures, then congratulations, your GPU OC is stable!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


*shoots a thunder bolt at you* say that again?










In truth, though, I am the winner.

I claim *FLAWLESS VICTORY*.

*FATALITY*

(As you wish, Elder God...)


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


Pioneeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeer Where Are Youuuuuuuuuuuuuuu ??




























{homemade tacos perhaps?}


Pioneer should be home shortly, hour max, he got called into work because the guy who was supposed to work today has a stomach infection. 
As for the tacos they sadly have to wait till after pioneer cashes his paycheck


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


In truth, though, I am the winner.

I claim *FLAWLESS VICTORY*.

*FATALITY*

(As you wish, Elder God...)




















QUICK....................DEMAND A RECOUNT


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


In truth, though, YOU are the winner.

I claim *FLAWLESS VICTORY*.

*FATALITY*

(As you wish, Elder God...)




















thx


----------



## boonie2

Good luck "froggy" and everyone else who entered , time to retire into the nether regions , 6am comes waaaaaaaaaaayyy to early {besides momma says come to bed now}


----------



## iandroo888

ooo momma demanding boonie2 coming to bed NOW! wow


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
Good luck "froggy" and everyone else who entered , time to retire into the nether regions , 6am comes waaaaaaaaaaayyy to early {besides momma says come to bed now}









Thanks boonie, or should I be thanking Karen? Anyways good luck to you too.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *froggy1986* 
Thanks boonie, or should I be thanking Karen? Anyways good luck to you too.

Naaaaaa its not like that , your case looks good


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
*edit* ok i couldnt hold back.. heres the quote i was talkin about









I never claimed to be a flawless typist....lol... u know u didnt have to point it out... u perv (of course I just had to be a chick that made that typo too)


----------



## iandroo888

haha







no prob. we all get a laugh at things


----------



## froggy1986

ok im off for awhile, gonna go play CoD4, we need more ppl to join our server, you guys should really consider it, I am not that great, usually, and as for pioneer well, he has fun playing and we will leave it at that.

BTW he just called, he is stopping to buy a coffee then he is home to talk with the other two judges.


----------



## iandroo888

Pioneerisloud Is Now Online 

should be expecting results soon @[email protected]

i hope today will end a better day. i took a physics test without a calculator today. it was very depressing when i found out i forgot my calculator at home :[

*edit*

yah im still refreshing these two pages like every 5 seconds... lol

*edit again*

yah i think im gonna stop refreshing so much. >_>


----------



## pioneerisloud

Recap now that I'm here:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


WOW.

I want to see pictures of thlnk3r's overclocked tacos!


Overclocked tacos, what?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Wait.

YOU cook?

I thought pioneer was the uber-cook here! He claimed that himself not too long ago. He ought to be the one cooking where you guys are!

Speaking of which, may I come over later? I like tacos!










I never said I was the uber-cook. My job description states I am a "cafe worker". I am not a cook, nor am I a waiter...that means tips would be taxed. Cafe workers don't have to pay taxes on tips







.

However I did self-promote myself to "Master Chef" here about two weeks ago! My boss didn't realize I'm the master chef there, so I said the hell with it, I'll proclaim that title myself!!!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *froggy1986*


I never claimed to be a flawless typist....lol... u know u didnt have to point it out... u perv (of course I just had to be a chick that made that typo too)


ROFL @ your typo. Of course I love your taco hunny! They're delicious (oops, did I make a typo too?).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *froggy1986*


ok im off for awhile, gonna go play CoD4, we need more ppl to join our server, you guys should really consider it, I am not that great, usually, and as for pioneer well, he has fun playing and we will leave it at that.

BTW he just called, he is stopping to buy a coffee then he is home to talk with the other two judges.


Excuse me? I'm quite good at COD4 thank you! Sometimes I beat you, sometimes you beat me (Oh, the irony with the above typo!). It all depends on the map.


----------



## iandroo888

A picture of a guy i saw in Asakusa, Japan










kinda looks like raiden in a way


----------



## dskina

That looks like a Soto Buddhist monk.


----------



## iandroo888

what... the heck that person doin in your avatar.. reito no.. soemthing ahahah

*refers to froggy and pioneer's "typos" *


----------



## DanDaManZ06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
DanDaManZ06, you are now part of the tribe.

blitz is definitely evil. But endearingly so.

And Joe (me) is only sometimes evil. You'll know when Evil Joe makes an appearance.









Muhahahahahahaha

lol thanks for accepting me... i now hope some one can help me out on over clocking this thing... can any of you guys point me to the right direction?


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I never said I was the uber-cook. My job description states I am a "cafe worker". I am not a cook, nor am I a waiter...that means tips would be taxed. Cafe workers don't have to pay taxes on tips







.

When you say "cafÃ© worker," do you mean a "barista"? If so, I was one for a few years, and I embrace my camaraderie.

If not, oh well.


----------



## smb_

Well I'd probobly start with just UP'ing the multiplier 1 ...seeing you have ddr400 it probobly wont overclock to well without loosening the timings a bit. Most AMD systems preform better with tight ram timings rather than a higher clock speed.

If you can up the multiplier to 15 you'd have a 3ghz dual core system, and you'd be able to keep your 200fsb witch will keep you ram 1:1 and with it's tightest timings.

Just play with it, up'ing the FSB and/or muliplier little by little until you crash.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DanDaManZ06* 
lol thanks for accepting me... i now hope some one can help me out on over clocking this thing... can any of you guys point me to the right direction?

try what _smb said. thats what i did.. i went to 200 x 14. any multiplier higher wasnt stable/crashed/couldnt post. i havent had time to play with my fx-60 any more. probably will play with it again when i have time after this semester is over in a few weeks.

post what ur stepping info is as well. maybe we can "Compare" lol. u MIGHT have a restriction from ur board though. if i remember correctly from Starholdest's a8n-sli, he had a 1.45v cpu vcore limit. might get limited on how much juice u can run thru ur proc.

also, hope u have good cooling. this thing runs HOT!

goddamn it. i pissed soundx98 off now T_T.. *sigh* blitz.. hit me !


----------



## Blitz6804

If your RAM is 3x1024, I would suggest taking out a DIMM or adding a fourth DIMM. Either would permit you to use dual-channel mode, which would increase your bandwidth by 50% - 75% over single channel mode. Note however, if you add a DIMM, your RAM will need to be dropped to DDR 333.

If your RAM is 2x1024+2x512, no change is necessary.

As smb_ suggested, increasing your multiplier is the easiest way to gain a CPU overclock, but not necessarily the best way to overclock your system. If you have decent OCZ RAM, it will be able to take a bit of an overclock, and you will have a better system overclock to try to get the RAM/CPU as high as you can at 1:1 before touching the multiplier.

That said, lets begin:

AT ALL TIMES, KEEP YOUR EYES ON YOUR CPU TEMPERATURE. THE MAX SAFE TEMP FOR A FX-60 IS 65Âº C.

The first thing to do is test your components. Drop your CPU multiplier to about 6, your HT multiplier to 2, and your RAM divider to 2:1, which would make it DDR 200. From this point, you want to slowly increase your FSB (read: add 5 MHz) and try to boot to Windows. If you can do so, try running 1M digits in SuperPi. If successful, return to the BIOS and repeat until such time that you cannot run SuperPi. Remove 1 MHz and repeat until you are at least SuperPi stable. This is your CPU's max FSB, but granted, the actual stable number will likely be lower; SuperPi is a fast test, not a very through one. Write down this number.

Return the FSB to 200 and the Multiplier to stock 13. As before, slowly increase the FSB until the point of instability. The FSB x Mutli will give you your CPU's max speed. Write it down once you know it.

Return the FSB to 200, the Multiplier back to 6, and the RAM to 2:2 (DDR 400). Then, add 1 MHz at a time (running SuperPi in between) to find the max speed of your RAM. Once you find that, write it down.

Now, you must decide what would be a good place to start given the three numbers you have. If your RAM tops at out at DDR 420 and your CPU at 3 GHz or so, you may consider keeping the RAM 1:1 (DDR 420, FSB 210) and cranking up the multiplier. If your RAM can do no more than DDR 400, you will want to drop the RAM divider, and then tweak up the FSB to get the RAM back to 400. Then adjust the multiplier as necessary to keep the CPU within its max speed.

Once you get to something you think works, try running OCCT 2.0. Watch your load temps. If they near 60Âº C, consider aborting the test, taking off a few MHz, and trying again. If the test crashes, also take a few MHz off.

There is much to do to refine this guide, it is very rough. Hope that helps.


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DanDaManZ06*


lol thanks for accepting me... i now hope some one can help me out on over clocking this thing... can any of you guys point me to the right direction?


Welcome to the club Dan







You have deff come to the right place, and the right group of people, for OC questions. These guys are great. Hope you enjoy your time here as much as I have.


----------



## DanDaManZ06

That looks like very useful information... if i knew what you were talking about... I'm a complete N00B when it comes to overclocking.... the most complicated thing i have ever done in the BIOS is changing my boot sequence... Do you have any pictures you can show me?


----------



## Blitz6804

Not with your motherboard. I will look through your manual and point you to the relevant sections within the hour. A8N-SLI Premium right?


----------



## DanDaManZ06

Wow that was a fast responce... yeah its an Asus A8N SLI PREMIUM... and yes i am using 2x1024 2x512... also right now on idle my cpu temp is at 32c


----------



## Blitz6804

Do you happen to know what your load temperature is? Are you using cool-n-quiet?

Your manual is available here if you do not have the physical version in front of you.


----------



## DanDaManZ06

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Do you happen to know what your load temperature is?

Your manual is available here if you do not have the physical version in front of you.


no how do i find out?


----------



## Blitz6804

To check CnQ: open power options from the control panel. If you have "always on" selected as your powerplan, Windows is avoiding CnQ. To check if it is on, change to "minimal power management" and then open CPU-Z. If CPU-Z shows your processor speed as approximately 2.6 GHz, you have CnQ disabled in the BIOS. If it shows your processor speed as approximately 1.2 GHz, you have CnQ enabled in the BIOS. Take note of that and change it back to "always on."

Download OCCT2 off the front page. Click the orange button. Click the "monitoring" tab. Next to "software," make sure it says "built in." In the box above that, type "60." The max safe temperature for an FX-60 is 65Âº C, but I like to cut things low; if you want to, feel free to pick a higher number not more than 64Âº C. Next to Core0 and Core1, make sure it is showing CPU temperatures. Then hit okay.

Then you hit the big green ON button and wait. It will take an hour to run the total test. You should hit moderately-high load temperatures in 10-20 minutes. If you exceed 60Âº C, the test should auto stop, and I would consider investing in better CPU cooling. After an hour, it will show you a graph showing your temperatures. Take note of the highest ever reached, this will be important.


----------



## DanDaManZ06

ok thanks ill post back back onces i'm done


----------



## darkspearxz

The A8N-SLI has a limited 1.55 vcore... Limiting me alot


----------



## Blitz6804

Page 4-20:
Go to Advanced menu
Then open CPU Configuration
Set Hyper Transport Frequency to 2x
Shut off AMD K8 Cool `n' Quiet Control (only for testing; can turn back on later if needed)
Page 4-21:
From the same menu, select DRAM Configuration
Ensure DRAM over 4G Remapping is disabled
Change Max Memclock to DDR 200
Make 1T/2T Memory Timing 2T
Leave all others alone
Page 4-30:
Back up to the Advanced menu
Open JumperFree Configuration
Change overclock profile to Manual
Ensure PCI Express Clock is 100 MHz
Leave DDR Voltage, Chipset Voltage, HT Voltage alone
Change CPU Multiplier to 6x
Leave CPU Voltage at alone
Change PCI Clock Synchronization Mode to 33.33 MHz
Ensure Overclock Options is Disabled
Ensure N.O.S. Option is disabled
Take note of CPU Frequency option

From my "guide" in a previous post, the "CPU Frequency" is what you will be tweeking. Start at 200 MHz and boot to Windows. This is just to ensure it will work with the multi and HT multi dropped. (It should seem really slow). Run 1 million digits in SuperPi (available on the first page if you do not have it.)

Upon sucess, reaccess the BIOS, and change CPU Frequency to 205 MHz and run SuperPi again.

Upon sucess, reaccess the BIOS, and change CPU Frequency to 210 MHz and run SuperPi again.

Keep doing this until you get SuperPi either getting a rounding error or the computer crashing. Reduce the frequency by 1 MHz until the error stops.

This is your max FSB; write it down.

Return it to 200 MHz and change CPU multiplier to 13x.

Boot to Windows and run SuperPi.

Upon sucess, reaccess the BIOS, and change CPU Frequency to 205 MHz and run SuperPi again.

Upon sucess, reaccess the BIOS, and change CPU Frequency to 210 MHz and run SuperPi again.

Keep doing this until you get SuperPi either getting a rounding error, the computer crashing, or temperatures exceeding the temperature you feel comfortable with. I say 60Âº C, logic dictaes no more than 64Âº C. Reduce the frequency by 1 MHz until the error stops.

The FSB x 13 = CPU speed. Write it down, this is your max processor speed.

Return to the BIOS and drop CPU multiplier back to 6x. Change Max Memclock to DDR 400. Return CPU frequency to 200 MHz.

Boot to Windows and run SuperPi.

Upon sucess, reaccess the BIOS, and change CPU Frequency to 201 MHz and run SuperPi again.

Upon sucess, reaccess the BIOS, and change CPU Frequency to 202 MHz and run SuperPi again.

Keep doing this until you get SuperPi either getting a rounding error or the computer crashing. Reduce the frequency back to the previous one.

Your memory frequency is the CPU Frequency in the BIOS times 2. Write it down, this is your max RAM speed.

Post back when you have those three numbers. This will likely take the better part of four hours.


----------



## DanDaManZ06

I learned that my CnQ is off... Should that be on?


----------



## Blitz6804

It is up to you. I like it on because it saves power. However, it does "kill" an overclock. For testing, you will need to keep it disabled and you can decide later if you want it.


----------



## DanDaManZ06

i want to overclock this bad boy... ill leave it on


----------



## Blitz6804

You mean you will leave it off. I personally run an overclock with CnQ enabled. I am not the only one either. Pioneerisloud has his HTPC running with CnQ as the top-of-my-head-co-example.

I have heard that some overclocked systems may experience some instability with CnQ turned on and forcing the owner to clock it slightly less agressively. Mine is not one of them. As to the "killing the overclock," when CnQ turns on, it drops the CPU voltage 0.25 V and cuts the multiplier approximately in half. In your case, I would suppose it would drop to 6x.


----------



## DanDaManZ06

thanks for all the info blitz I'm learning a lot from you.


----------



## iandroo888

ive had my fx-60 at 70C before. (airflow problems in rocketfish full tower case). i believe fx series can handle semi high temps. but its not recommended to keep them that high.

i think im runnin 1.45 or so volts on the fx-60 with barely a 200mhz overclock from stock. must just be my chip. ive heard its easy to get to 3.0 on the fx-60. *shrugs*.


----------



## Blitz6804

According to AMD, an 'ideal' load temperature would be 49Âº C and the max load temperature should not exceed 65Âº C. This is true for all 110 W processors. The 89 W jobs, of which the FX-60 is not, are 71Âº C max temps.

It is also interesting to note that they recommend 1.30 or 1.35 V. In theory, since P = IÂ·V, and I (current) is constant, lower voltages (and consequently, lower wattages) would permit higher temperatures.

Given that P = IÂ·V, I = P / V = 110 W / 1.35 V = 81.5 A.

To get to the 89 W version, P = IÂ·V, V = P / I = 89 W / 81.5 A = 1.10 V.

So in theory, an FX-60 when CnQ is enabled has the same max temperature as a Toledo X2 4400+ under load.

*This is just a theory, please do not test it.*


----------



## iandroo888

ok mr scientist. shoo.. *scoots him away with a broom*


----------



## boonie2

Dont shoooo him away , HE KNOWS what hes talking about ..Calm down and let him help this guy


----------



## iandroo888

*throws a lasso and pulls him back* no more physics talk tho =P

hi boonie2







how are you doing


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Interesting, detailed theory, Sub-Zero. It echoes what some professional pundits have said about the suitability of lower voltage/wattage parts for OCers.

In practice, though, I've found that the few 89W Toledos I've played with were really stubborn. The one that stands out is the X2 4400+ (my first dual-core) which is now in my dad's PC. The highest I got from that chip was a semi-stable (i.e., Orthos stable for 8 Hrs on Priority 1 -- I was a bigger noob back then) 2.695GHz (11*245MHz), @ 1.5ishV VCore (I don't quite remember the precise figure, but it was definitely above 1.475V). It was loading at around mid-60s degrees C, as I recall.

Stubborn little creature, for sure...


----------



## iandroo888

*rolls around for two hours until results are released*


----------



## Blitz6804

Are you sure it was an 89W Toledo? The X2 4400+ ran in both flavors: 89 W and 110 W.

As we know from experience, I am running 2750 MHz (11*250 MHz) at 1.328 V and loads below 56Âº C in anything except S&M. If I had a 110 W version, I am sure I would be incapable of the low temperatures and stock voltage for that speed.

And also, for the record, the complex just turned on the compressors today, so I should be holding a stable 20Âº C ambient for the next few months which certainly helps things. My core temps are down to 29Âº C as of me writing this oppose of the 39Âº C I had yesterday. (Running AIM, WLM, YIM, ICQ, gTalk, Fx, WMP, CnQ)

*Is sitting on pins and needles waiting on DanDaManZ06 to come back* Come on buddy, lets get some figures!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Are you sure it was an 89W Toledo? The X2 4400+ ran in both flavors: 89 W and 110 W.

As we know from experience, I am running 2750 MHz (11*250 MHz) at 1.328 V and loads below 56Âº C in anything except S&M. If I had a 110 W version, I am sure I would be incapable of the low temperatures and stock voltage for that speed.


Absolutely positive.

But here's a piece of information that I did not disclose earlier: That X2 4400+ 89W carried that dog of an IMC, the BW version (it's a dreaded CCBWE).

Goes to show there are lots of things that could scupper even the most ambitious overclocks and overclockers out there.


----------



## Blitz6804

Oh no! The CCBWE! *Curls into the fetal position and starts muttering rocking back and forth*


----------



## boonie2




----------



## Blitz6804

Well, I am really hungry, and only recently realized why: it is almost 1900h!

*Starts cooking the penne ala vodka*


----------



## DanDaManZ06

ok i ran that OCCT program for a while and the max temp is 51c... is that bad/good? can i work with that?


----------



## Blitz6804

51Âº C is pretty darn fancy. We can certainly run with that. Given your idle temp, I would estimate that the max idle temp we would be able to get would be 42Âº C such that your load temp does not get dangerous.

Have you had a chance to start testing components yet?


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
*throws a lasso and pulls him back* no more physics talk tho =P

hi boonie2







how are you doing









Doin ok , long day at work....so alot of drama after i left last night huh? just finished reading all the posts ...maybe I shouldnt have asked to guess the winner














seems to have brought out some of the primal instincts...{human nature sucks sometimes} really hope everyone gets past all that , im sure everyone here has the best intentions.....{cant be positive about that} but hoping thats the case ... Soundx , you really should reconcider your decision to drop out...And IAN {







} proof read before you post







....GOOD LUCK EVERYONE


----------



## DanDaManZ06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 

Have you had a chance to start testing components yet?

I'm sorry what components do you mean? Don't hate the noobness please.


----------



## Blitz6804

See this post: http://www.overclock.net/3752827-post2455.html

Before we overclock you, we need to know what we can overclock!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DanDaManZ06* 
I'm sorry what components do you mean? Don't hate the noobness please.

Nah, not at all.







We were all noobs at one point.









A bigger problem is not acknowledging one's inner noob, no?


----------



## Blitz6804

Well txtmstrjoe, most of us were not noobs. We were "newbs." A "newb" is someone who is new and wants to become part of society. A "noob" is someone who is new, but makes little attempt to blend. Not to be confused with a "n00b," who is usually an utter twink besides.

I certainly classify you as an "Overclocker in Training" DanDaManZ06, and thus, a newb, and there is nothing you will not be able to do in future! Personally, I have only been an overclocker myself for ALMOST 12 weeks. (The anniversary of my first BIOS tweak is tomorrow.)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Well txtmstrjoe, most of us were not noobs. We were "newbs." A "newb" is someone who is new and wants to become part of society. A "noob" is someone who is new, but makes little attempt to blend. Not to be confused with a "n00b," who is usually an utter twink besides.

I certainly classify you as an "Overclocker in Training" DanDaManZ06, and thus, a newb, and there is nothing you will not be able to do in future! Personally, I have only been an overclocker myself for ALMOST 12 weeks. (The anniversary of my first BIOS tweak is tomorrow.)

Oh lord.

What's worse than being exposed as a n00b by Sub-Zero, of all people?










It's been a tough couple of weeks for his hotness (i.e., moi).


----------



## Blitz6804

I think you just need some A/C. As always, my invite is open to you.

Granted, I you will need to wear some gloves, I would hate to see your poor snake freeze and break off.*

*Not really. I might actually beat him that way... none of this "get over here" nonsense


----------



## DanDaManZ06

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


See this post: http://www.overclock.net/3752827-post2455.html

Before we overclock you, we need to know what we can overclock!


man i wish i had a working printer to print that out


----------



## Blitz6804

I do not suppose you are fortunate enough to have two or more computers? Perhaps access to a laptop? Else, you will need to write it down by hand I suppose. (-_-)

Anyway, I wish you luck, we are all waiting for you to come back with your results!

Oh, do you suppose you could give me a screen shot of your CPU-Z memory tab?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DanDaManZ06*


I'm sorry what components do you mean? Don't hate the noobness please.


Dan, here is another excellent guide on isolating the maximum limits of each component (processor, memory and motherboard): http://www.overclock.net/faqs/31782-...pu-memory.html

Good luck









EDIT: Whoops forgot the link


----------



## DanDaManZ06

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Oh, do you suppose you could give me a screen shot of your CPU-Z memory tab?


----------



## Blitz6804

Good thing I thought to ask; this adds a wrinkle.

K8 processors had an interesting flaw when it came to memory controllers. If you use 4 RAM DIMMs, the stock RAM speed dropped to 333 MHz (DDR 333). Like me, you too are effected by this. Accordingly, in my 'guide,' there is a modification to make. The line that reads:

"Return to the BIOS and drop CPU multiplier back to 6x. Change Max Memclock to DDR 400. Return CPU frequency to 200 MHz."

Should now read:

"Return to the BIOS and drop CPU multiplier back to 6x. Change Max Memclock to DDR 333. Return CPU frequency to 200 MHz."

You could always remove the pair of 512's, but if you are like me, you want to use the RAM you bought! (^_^)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Lots of interesting edu-ma-cation going on here.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DanDaManZ06*












Dan, not sure if this has been mentioned already but you may have a easier time overclocking with 2 DIMMs as oppose to 3 DIMMs. A substantial amount of stress is placed on the IMC (integrated memory controller) when running more then one stick of memory. The only way to know of course is to test. 
Other's might disagree with the above advice but it's always worth testing









If you somewhat understand what your doing in regards to memory adjustments then try putting your running your memory at DDR 133 for the time being. This is only for testing purposes and can be adjusted later after you've found a stable OC. By this it should give you some more room when you start raising your HTT (reference clock).

Hope this helps


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hey thlnk3r, I just had a look at your rig specs right now.

SO MANY of those parts look so familiar...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Good thing I thought to ask; this adds a wrinkle.

K8 processors had an interesting flaw when it came to memory controllers. If you use 4 RAM DIMMs, the stock RAM speed dropped to 333 MHz (DDR 333). Like me, you too are effected by this. Accordingly, in my 'guide,' there is a modification to make. The line that reads:

"Return to the BIOS and drop CPU multiplier back to 6x. Change Max Memclock to DDR 400. Return CPU frequency to 200 MHz."

Should now read:

"Return to the BIOS and drop CPU multiplier back to 6x. Change Max Memclock to DDR 333. Return CPU frequency to 200 MHz."

You could always remove the pair of 512's, but if you are like me, you want to use the RAM you bought! (^_^)

Blitz, that's strange. On my Asus A8N-SLI I was running 4 DIMMs (2x256) of Corsair PC3200LL and did not experience that problem.


----------



## Blitz6804

For the record thlnk3r, he has 4 DIMMs. 2x1024 + 2x512 MB. If you have more than 2 GB with 4 DIMMs, you have the issue; if he had only three, he would not have the DDR 333 issue. On the other hand, he would not have dual-channel mode. Pick your poison I suppose.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
For the record thlnk3r, he has 4 DIMMs. 2x1024 + 2x512 MB. If you have more than 2 GB with 4 DIMMs, you have the issue; if he had only three, he would not have the DDR 333 issue. On the other hand, he would not have dual-channel mode. Pick your poison I suppose.

Blitz, my apologize misread his cpu-z shots but like I said in my previous post I've never experienced the "DDR 333" issues with 4 DIMMs.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

One of my favorite OCers' maxims seems most appropriate: YMMV.


----------



## Blitz6804

Like I said, more than 2 GB. If you have a chance to, try 2x1024 + 2x128, it should also do that.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Like I said, more than 2 GB. If you have a chance to, try 2x1024 + 2x128, it should also do that.

Blitz, ok perhaps I am confused. 4 DIMMs that are more than 2GB will experience the "DDR 333" issue?


----------



## Blitz6804

That is the rumor. The only way I have experienced it is with 4x1024. But supposedly, any combination of 4 that exceeds 2 GB should do it.


----------



## DanDaManZ06

Damn i gotta wait for my friend to get off of work so i can use his printer... i guess the overclocking has to wait


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DanDaManZ06* 
Damn i gotta wait for my friend to get off of work so i can use his printer... i guess the overclocking has to wait









Dan, sorry to get off topic but what kind of PSU are you running? I just want to make sure it's sufficient enough for your venture into OCing


----------



## Blitz6804

Alright, no problem. In the mean time, you can party! *Goes to hand DanDaManZ06 a pomatini.*

Wait, you are of age right? I do not wanna get busted.

And thlnk3r, while I know not the model, I know it is 600 W.


----------



## DanDaManZ06

Coolmax CUG-600B... i'm getting a knew one once i get the money... until then this will have to do


----------



## Drizzt5

I think I'm going to OC my(mommys) opteron...see if i can get some nice Superpi 1M runs....

ill bb


----------



## Blitz6804

And if it will not overclock well anymore Drizzt5, I once again offer to swap my Athlon64 X2 4400+ for that Opty 180. I am sure my proc could hit 3 GHz given half the chance, but my MoBo cannot pull the trigger.

As to DanDaManZ06: seems like a nice PSU to me. The modular is nice in terms of wiring, and it does not seem to have any particular faults.


----------



## DanDaManZ06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
As to DanDaManZ06: seems like a nice PSU to me. The modular is nice in terms of wiring, and it does not seem to have any particular faults.

WOOT WOOT RAISE THE ROOF!!!


----------



## nategr8ns

drizzt your avatar is awesome! Whats that little heart doing down there?
Do post information on your overclocks, but make sure to let it stress test overnight.

So guys, what's happening with the Case Management Contest? It was supposed to be done yesterday...

Dan, are you Dan1644?







This is your power supply. 12V rails are [email protected],[email protected],[email protected] they seem kind of low except for the second rail. Other than that it looks fine! It should suit your overclocking fine. Why would you want to replace it?


----------



## Blitz6804

The verdict got postponed due to unpublished reasons. From last I heard, the judges are hoping to get it nailed down today.


----------



## DanDaManZ06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 

Dan, are you Dan1644?







This is your power supply. 12V rails are [email protected],[email protected],[email protected] they seem kind of low except for the second rail. Other than that it looks fine! It should suit your overclocking fine. Why would you want to replace it?

nope thats not me... i just bought my self another 8800GT(150 bucks... i couldn't resist i wonder what will happen... i know you can run 2 with a 600w psu but my psu might not do so well thats why i am going to get a new psu if mine can't handle it.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

A note on PSUs: The key stat you should be looking at when shopping for a PSU is not the wattage output. Rather, you have to know what your rig's Amperage requirements are, especially the 12V Amps.

It's wise to have as big a surplus on 12V Amperage as you can afford to get. This is especially true when 1) you're overclocking your system (added output requires added input) and 2) when running multiples of anything (multi-HDD; multi-GPU; etc.).


----------



## Blitz6804

Supposedly, the 8800GT peaks at 12 Amps if overclocked. As little as 9 Amps peak if it is stock. In theory, if you can get both cards on your 12v2, and put all other devices on the other 12v rails, you should be gold. It is an SLI certified PSU, which speaks volumes of course. If you want to be sure, just check the manual.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

DanDaMan (may I call you DaMan?







), is your card a G92 or a G80?

EDIT: Sub-Zero proof-reading FTW, baby!


----------



## DanDaManZ06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Supposedly, the 8800GT peaks at 12 Amps if overclocked. As little as 9 Amps peak if it is stock. In theory, if you can get both cards on your 12v2, and put all other devices on the other 12v rails, you should be gold. It is an SLI certified PSU, which speaks volumes of course. If you want to be sure, just check the manual.

the first thing i lose is manuals... if i understand you right.. you think my psu might be enough... god... i hope it is


----------



## DanDaManZ06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
DanDaMan (may I call you DaMan?







), is your card a G92 or a G80?

EDIT: Sub-Zero proof-reading FTW, baby!









it is the G92... yes you can call me "DaMan"


----------



## boonie2

Dan check the lable on the PSU it should have +12v and amps underneath..example=12v / 32A


----------



## DanDaManZ06

I dont like sticking my head inside my case while it is on... lol


----------



## txtmstrjoe

DaMan, for G92 8800GT, minimum 12V amps is 24A.









That's for one card. With SLI, it's not exactly double (48A), but power requirements do escalate. I'm trying to find info on precisely how much a G92 SLI setup consumes in terms of 12V amps, but I haven't found it yet.


----------



## Blitz6804

Hm... I just looked a few places online. The G92s use a bit more juice than the G80s. You may need to have one split over the rails by a molex adapter, but you should be able to run the SLI okay.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
A note on PSUs: The key stat you should be looking at when shopping for a PSU is not the wattage output. Rather, you have to know what your rig's Amperage requirements are, especially the 12V Amps.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
This is your power supply. 12V rails are [email protected],[email protected],[email protected]


Quote:


Originally Posted by *DanDaManZ06* 
I dont like sticking my head inside my case while it is on... lol

the worst I've gotten is a slightly chopped up middle finger when I slipped into my Opty stock cooler







Not much blood though.


----------



## DanDaManZ06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
You may need to have one split over the rails by a molex adapter

can you explain this in detail?


----------



## Blitz6804

The card likely came with an adapter. On one end is two standard molex (4-pin) connectors and on the other is a 6-pin PCI-E connector. What you do is plug the PCI-E connector into the card, and then one molex from each of two different rails into the other end. I had to do the same thing with my card (which uses an 8-pin PCI-E connector) since I lacked the appropriate connector.

In your case, if you can put the one GPU on the 12v2 rail, and the other on the 12v1/12v3 rail, you will likely not have a problem. I am not promising you that, but it seems to be logical to me.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DanDaManZ06* 
I dont like sticking my head inside my case while it is on... lol









DONT CRAWL INSIDE IT







just take off the side panel , you should be able to see it right on the side on the PSU ... important to know this







{HEY WHERE DID MY "FOLDING ICON GO?}


----------



## DanDaManZ06

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*









DONT CRAWL INSIDE IT







just take off the side panel , you should be able to see it right on the side on the PSU ... important to know this










i the only sticker i can see is a sticker Showing you a diagram on what goes where.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DanDaManZ06*


i the only sticker i can see is a sticker Showing you a diagram on what goes where.


Which Newegg is nice enough to supply us with.


----------



## boonie2

what brand name is the PSU? BLITZ BEAT ME TO IT HAHAHA


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Oh no! The CCBWE! *Curls into the fetal position and starts muttering rocking back and forth*













































rofl hahahah so can imagine that

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Well, I am really hungry, and only recently realized why: it is almost 1900h!

*Starts cooking the penne ala vodka*


mm military time and penne ala vodka.. with a nice orange juice + vodka drink on the side









Quote:



Originally Posted by *DanDaManZ06*


ok i ran that OCCT program for a while and the max temp is 51c... is that bad/good? can i work with that?


wow. is he oc'ed yet?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


Doin ok , long day at work....so alot of drama after i left last night huh? just finished reading all the posts ...maybe I shouldnt have asked to guess the winner














seems to have brought out some of the primal instincts...{human nature sucks sometimes} really hope everyone gets past all that , im sure everyone here has the best intentions.....{cant be positive about that} but hoping thats the case ... Soundx , you really should reconcider your decision to drop out...And IAN {







} proof read before you post







....GOOD LUCK EVERYONE










nah ur not at fault boonie2. its all my fault. my idea of that post i did was to say my likes and dislikes and maybe comment some ways of improvement, but as soundx98 mentioned to me, it was all "dissing" everyones rigs... (I APOLOGIZE TO EVERYONE FOR THAT. THAT WAS NOT MY ORIGINAL INTENTIONS) i tried to ask soundx98 not to withdraw. i dont know his final decision









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Well txtmstrjoe, most of us were not noobs. We were "newbs." A "newb" is someone who is new and wants to become part of society. A "noob" is someone who is new, but makes little attempt to blend. Not to be confused with a "n00b," who is usually an utter twink besides.

I certainly classify you as an "Overclocker in Training" DanDaManZ06, and thus, a newb, and there is nothing you will not be able to do in future! Personally, I have only been an overclocker myself for ALMOST 12 weeks. (The anniversary of my first BIOS tweak is tomorrow.)


oh man. u defined noob. @[email protected]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Lots of interesting edu-ma-cation going on here.










yup yup.. good stuff

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


One of my favorite OCers' maxims seems most appropriate: YMMV.










haha .. first time i learned that was on slickdeals.net haha i was like what is AR PM B&M YMMW ?????









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Drizzt5*


I think I'm going to OC my(mommys) opteron...see if i can get some nice Superpi 1M runs....

ill bb


oOo must post progress when you do









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


And if it will not overclock well anymore Drizzt5, I once again offer to swap my Athlon64 X2 4400+ for that Opty 180. I am sure my proc could hit 3 GHz given half the chance, but my MoBo cannot pull the trigger.

As to DanDaManZ06: seems like a nice PSU to me. The modular is nice in terms of wiring, and it does not seem to have any particular faults.


haha. i thought u loved ur 4400+. dont part with it =P time for a better mobo tho for u. uve been droolin over our asus boards for quite a while haha

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DanDaManZ06*


WOOT WOOT RAISE THE ROOF!!!


O_O.....

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


The verdict got postponed due to unpublished reasons. From last I heard, the judges are hoping to get it nailed down today.


hope so. actually was hoping for a verdict after i came back from doin some errands. cuz txtmstrjoe or someone said by like 530PST or something. o well.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DanDaManZ06*


it is the G92... yes you can call me "DaMan"


YoDaMan







no not Yoda Man.. Yo Da Man haha









Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*









DONT CRAWL INSIDE IT







just take off the side panel , you should be able to see it right on the side on the PSU ... important to know this










in some cases. u might not. depends how ur psu is oriented in the case. the label might be on the OTHER side (mobo side)


----------



## Drizzt5

I need to make time... I had a track meet today and yesterday i spent ages with the damn accelero installation.


----------



## iandroo888

oOo track meet. man i wanna play tennis today. great weather outside... but allergies are killing me


----------



## DanDaManZ06

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Which Newegg is nice enough to supply us with.


i guess mine fell off


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Ooh. Track meet.

I always had a thing for long-legged runners... was seriously infatuated with one back in high school, actually...

(Sigh)


----------



## froggy1986

Anyone in here have some good knowhow/tips for painting a rig? I want to attempt to do this to my rig but I have no idea where to start. Thanks in advance.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DanDaManZ06* 
Coolmax CUG-600B... i'm getting a knew one once i get the money... until then this will have to do

Dan, I would probably ditch that PSU as soon as possible. Unless I'm reading the sticker incorrectly that psu is only producing 200watts with 16.66amps on the 12volt rail. Here's the sticker: Coolmax CUG-600B. That is definitely not a 600watt PSU. Either coolmax is lying or there is a misprint.








@ Coolmax


----------



## alexgheseger

Quote:


Originally Posted by *froggy1986* 
Anyone in here have some good knowhow/tips for painting a rig? I want to attempt to do this to my rig but I have no idea where to start. Thanks in advance.

First and foremost: Take your time. If you hurry anything, the paint will look terrible. When handling the piece to be painted, don't touch the surface you want to paint. The oils in your skin can prevent the paint from adhereing properly.

Do you know the technique for using a spray bomb?

Are you just painting the interior, or are you doing something to the outside?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *froggy1986* 
Anyone in here have some good knowhow/tips for painting a rig? I want to attempt to do this to my rig but I have no idea where to start. Thanks in advance.

Painting starts at the surface, my dear.









The hardest work is preparing the surface. If it's been painted previously, the old paint must come off first. I recommend using a ton of brake fluid (no kidding). That stuff will eat through the paint, but keep the metal (and more importantly the plastic) undamaged.

I'd then sand the surface to make sure all the paint is indeed gone, and all you're left is bare metal.

Use primer, sand that smooth, even out the surface. Surface must be smooth, or paint will never be.







Once you're satisfied with surface smoothness, you can begin painting.









Readers' Digest version there.









Hope this helps. If you've got more questions, fire away. Will answer ASAP (my gf is on fone now, and she owns me for a couple of hours). LOL


----------



## Blitz6804

If I did the math right, I would agree, it is not a 600 W. I come up with 690 W peak. Maybe I am doing the math wrong, but I am going on standard P = IÂ·V. I come up with 464 W on the 3 12v rails combined. Someone wanna set the record straight? (Granted, I heard that the inclusion of rails kills up to 25% of power compared to a single rail, so I guess that means 348 W, then being below the 380 W they suggest.)


----------



## alexgheseger

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
If I did the math right, I would agree, it is not a 600 W. I come up with 690 W peak. Maybe I am doing the math wrong, but I am going on standard P = IÂ·V. I come up with 464 W on the 3 12v rails combined. Someone wanna set the record straight? (Granted, I heard that the inclusion of rails kills up to 25% of power compared to a single rail, so I guess that means 348 W, then being below the 380 W they suggest.)

Maybe it's 690 W Peak, and 600 W sustained?

EDIT: Now that i actually read your post, i realized something. The math isn't wrong, but the assumption that the PSU can simultaneously "fill" all the rail's is. For example, my Tagan 900 W is supposedly multi-rail, with 6 12 V rails that each max out at 20 A. 120 A x 12 V = 1440 W right?. However, the real max combined output is 70A, which leads to a more reasonable output of 840 W.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


If I did the math right, I would agree, it is not a 600 W. I come up with 690 W peak. Maybe I am doing the math wrong, but I am going on standard P = IÂ·V. I come up with 464 W on the 3 12v rails combined. Someone wanna set the record straight? (Granted, I heard that the inclusion of rails kills up to 25% of power compared to a single rail, so I guess that means 348 W, then being below the 380 W they suggest.)


Blitz, it's 380w - 180w = 200w/12amps = 16.66amps

Look at the 12volt rails, total wattage is 380watts! What a joke..


----------



## iandroo888

man. (sorry) long overdue on results for contest (sorry for rush)... a little update on the judging plz, mr judges


----------



## DanDaManZ06

too many numbers.... my brain hurts


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Painting starts at the surface, my dear.









The hardest work is preparing the surface. If it's been painted previously, the old paint must come off first. I recommend using a ton of brake fluid (no kidding). That stuff will eat through the paint, but keep the metal (and more importantly the plastic) undamaged.

I'd then sand the surface to make sure all the paint is indeed gone, and all you're left is bare metal.

Use primer, sand that smooth, even out the surface. Surface must be smooth, or paint will never be.







Once you're satisfied with surface smoothness, you can begin painting.









Readers' Digest version there.









Hope this helps. If you've got more questions, fire away. Will answer ASAP (my gf is on fone now, and she owns me for a couple of hours). LOL


Thanks this helped loads, I would have completely forgotten to remove thos old paint, would have just applied it right over. As for the smooth surface at the end, I am not all that worried about, I know it won't be comepletly level due to the fact I am gonna be splattering more paint on the top of my base coat.

As for painting the interior or exterior. EVENTUALLY it will be both. For now, pioneer suggests only doing the interior, due to lack of money since he decided to splurge lately...lol. For that would I still need to sand it down, or is it already smooth enough? When I thought of a place to paint, since we are in a tiny little appartment, I thought of going down to like salvation army or somewhere like it and getting an old sheet to lie down on the porch outside, then covering the work area with like a tarp or some plastic, and maybe putting some sort of a wall to keep leaves and dirt from flying into the wet paint, do ya'll think that would be a good idea? I have a fence on two sides and the building on one, I was thinking wrap all four sides with the plastic, not just the open side, to not only protect the wet paint, but the other surfaces as well, I am not sure how sloppy I will be especially when getting to the splatter part.

Is there a special kind of spray paint I would need to buy so that I don't ruin anything, and the heat won't damage the paint? Lastly, what would be a good way to handle the surface so I dont get it oily? Would wearing medical gloves be good enough? 
ok this post is getting longer than I wanted so I will leave it at that for now. Thanks for the tips... +rep for the info, very usefull.


----------



## Blitz6804

You want self etching paint and primer designed for cars from the research I have been doing.


----------



## alexgheseger

Just avoid touching the surface with your bare hands, and you'll be fine.

As for the paint, I've had good luck with Krylon paint, but many people have preferences. Just get a paint designed for metals. Heat shouldn't be an issue.

Finally, yes spray painting tends to get a bit messy, so you should probably wrap a fairly large area up. If you can make a little "booth" that would be ideal.


----------



## iandroo888

i used rust-o-leum professional spraypaint from home depot. big cans. works great.


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexgheseger*


Just avoid touching the surface with your bare hands, and you'll be fine.

As for the paint, I've had good luck with Krylon paint, but many people have preferences. Just get a paint designed for metals. Heat shouldn't be an issue.

Finally, yes spray painting tends to get a bit messy, so you should probably wrap a fairly large area up. If you can make a little "booth" that would be ideal.


Ok, thanks again for the help. I will start a long when we have the money for this process and I begin. I just hope I don't end up ruining my poor case, since I don't have a spare.


----------



## Blitz6804

I know this is not a major deal since I could not load Windows XP, but, it bares mentioning:

I was able to finally get the system to POST at 265x11 (that being 2915)! Now that I know there is hope, maybe I can get the thing to actually get booking!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Blitz:
Seems you may have a front side bus hole perhaps?


----------



## Blitz6804

No, I have a latency hole.

Every attempt I did I would dial back the RAM speed, but I would leave latencies alone. I dropped them to 3-4-4-8-2t-19-22, and there it went!

It was still DDR 352 (still OCed) which might be why I did not get into windows. I will try one more tonight, then go to bed.


----------



## Blitz6804

Well... I put the settings back, and now I am unstabler than Pioneer's proverbial Britney Spears example. Might need to dump the CMOS (again *grumbles*) or Joe recommended a checkdisk.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Well... I put the settings back, and now I am unstabler than Pioneer's proverbial Britney Spears example. Might need to dump the CMOS (again *grumbles*) or Joe recommended a checkdisk.


Just wondering here blitzy, but when did this Britney Spears thing come up? I don't remember saying anything like that?


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Poser*


All of this 939 love is just driving me to plot, conspire and finagle my way over the 3.0ghz barrier...

I have booted this chip into vista @ 3.2ghz, but it was about as stable as britney spears. I think, though, that I am learning that these HZ's prefer to hover at DDR500 and no more... that and the mem controller on these chips can get saturated with a quickness with UCCC ICs



Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
















Yes, you guys made my day! Thank you!
















Now I feel quite







, but kinda







! Go figure.

My 3.27GHz was about as stable as Britney Spears though. If this guy's overclock is stable....man he's got me beat with an overclock stick!



Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


ATI Tool is, as pioneer would say, less stable than Britney Spears on my computer.

I need to use the 0.27 Beta 4 so it will recognize my card (HD 3850 chipset). It actually overclocks inferiorly to CCC, and if I try to stress test while not stock, the whole thing locks up.


It was originally Poser, but then you (and later I) borrowed it. Twice in my case.

I just did a CMOS dump and hope she is fixed now.


----------



## iandroo888

i remember someone referring to britney spears. dont remember who though

*edit*

lol blitz found proof haha


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, that must have been it. Before, it would crash after 2-5 minutes of booting. Now I am 10 minutes into an OCCT2 run while using AIM and YIM AND firefox still.

The question is: do I try for that 3.0 GHz suicide again... I am almost certainly going to need an overvolt, because that "IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL" BSOD means I am not giving the proc enough juice for the speed.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I say go for it. Heck, if you can, wrastle her stable at 3.0GHz too. If you're worried about power...you will see MAYBE $0.02 tops increase in your power bill...not much at all. Sound, now there I can sympathize...but my office sounds like a tornado whipping through here.

Lol, wow, I STILL don't remember saying that, but the proof is right there! Meh, oh well. Cool?


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
...but my office sounds like a tornado whipping through here.

Sadly, it also looks like it. If I didn't know better I would swear there is constanly tornadoes in here. Even right after cleaning it, a few days pass and its already just as bad as b4 the cleaning.

@blitz
Good luck with getting a good stable OC.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

That reminds me.

When I get my camera back, I ought to introduce y'all to all my fans.









Scorpion's got lots of fans... hehehe


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
That reminds me.

When I get my camera back, I ought to introduce y'all to all my fans.









Scorpion's got lots of fans... hehehe

txtmstrjoe has so many fans, he should have his own fan club!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Just as a side note here...my worklog for my 8800GTS 512MB with all benchmark results has been completed. Please see the benchmark section on that thread for more information on how well my rig does now (finally)....and why I can now officially say (and prove) that CPU speed matters more than anything. Just check out my Crysis benchmark runs if you don't believe me now







.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Just as a side note here...my worklog for my 8800GTS 512MB with all benchmark results has been completed. Please see the benchmark section on that thread for more information on how well my rig does now (finally)....and why I can now officially say (and prove) that CPU speed matters more than anything. Just check out my Crysis benchmark runs if you don't believe me now







.


pshhh i new that! Thats why I have stopped worrying about overclocking my video card, and I usually leave it at stock SC speeds (its an SC card). My processor on the other hand...


----------



## Blitz6804

I am, as of this second, typing on my AMD Athlon64 X2 4400+ running at *3007 MHz*! I will have the proof uploaded in a couple of minutes. She is SuperPi [1m] stable and 3DMark06 stable. I am about to run OCCT. Granted, to even POST when the FSB = 273 required that I remove two DIMMs.

Oh well.

If she runs OCCT, I will go back and see if I can get FSB = 291, which would make me 3201, a 1 GHz overclock from my stock 2201.


----------



## Rolandooo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I am, as of this second, typing on my AMD Athlon64 X2 4400+ running at *3007 MHz*! I will have the proof uploaded in a couple of minutes. She is SuperPi [1m] stable and 3DMark06 stable. I am about to run OCCT. Granted, to even POST when the FSB = 273 required that I remove two DIMMs.

Oh well.

If she runs OCCT, I will go back and see if I can get FSB = 291, which would make me 3201, a 1 GHz overclock from my stock 2201.


Wow very nice







Congrats!


----------



## smb_

Nice dude!!

My Opty 180 won't run _stable_ @ 3ghz ...but is rock solid at around 2.9 :/


----------



## Blitz6804

3 GHz baby!

I found out only now why my SuperPi sucks. My RAM broke: it is now running in Single-Channel exclusively. I am opening communications with Corsair to repair.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I found out only now why my SuperPi sucks. My RAM broke: it is now running in Single-Channel exclusively. I am opening communications with Corsair to repair.


oh, I was gonna say that looks a lot like my opty at 2.8







.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, it is very disappointing. I have taken out the TWINX2048-3200C2PRO RAM (serial numbers ending in 14 and 15), leaving only the TWINX2048-3200C2 in. Again, for those who forgot, this is my RAM:

.

If I use the C2s, no problem; Dual-Channel mode.
If I use either C2 with C2PRO ending in 14, no problem; Dual-Channel mode.
Whenever C2PRO ending in 15 comes to play, Single-Channel mode.

Memtest86+ came up errata free on both DIMMs.

I am now unsure if I should go at 3 GHz again with the C2s in, or just leave it be. I cannot tell if the C2PRO that broke was going for a while (which would explain why lately I needed to reduce my tRC/tRFC to prevent BSOD) or if the push for FSB 273 (RAM = DDR 401) did her in.

We will wait and see what Corsair says; their RAM supposedly has a lifetime warranty.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I say go for it. Heck, if you can, wrastle her stable at 3.0GHz too. If you're worried about power...you will see MAYBE $0.02 tops increase in your power bill...not much at all. Sound, now there I can sympathize...but my office sounds like a tornado whipping through here.

Lol, wow, I STILL don't remember saying that, but the proof is right there! Meh, oh well. Cool?

whoooossshhhh!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *froggy1986* 
Sadly, it also looks like it. If I didn't know better I would swear there is constanly tornadoes in here. Even right after cleaning it, a few days pass and its already just as bad as b4 the cleaning.

@blitz
Good luck with getting a good stable OC.

uh oh. bad pioneer!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
That reminds me.

When I get my camera back, I ought to introduce y'all to all my fans.









Scorpion's got lots of fans... hehehe

and yet.. ur still not cool =P

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I am, as of this second, typing on my AMD Athlon64 X2 4400+ running at *3007 MHz*! I will have the proof uploaded in a couple of minutes. She is SuperPi [1m] stable and 3DMark06 stable. I am about to run OCCT. Granted, to even POST when the FSB = 273 required that I remove two DIMMs.

Oh well.

If she runs OCCT, I will go back and see if I can get FSB = 291, which would make me 3201, a 1 GHz overclock from my stock 2201.

nice. stable? temps?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 









3 GHz baby!

I found out only now why my SuperPi sucks. My RAM broke: it is now running in Single-Channel exclusively. I am opening communications with Corsair to repair.

broke? uh oh









Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Yeah, it is very disappointing. I have taken out the TWINX2048-3200C2PRO RAM (serial numbers ending in 14 and 15), leaving only the TWINX2048-3200C2 in. Again, for those who forgot, this is my RAM:

.

If I use the C2s, no problem; Dual-Channel mode.
If I use either C2 with C2PRO ending in 14, no problem; Dual-Channel mode.
Whenever C2PRO ending in 15 comes to play, Single-Channel mode.

Memtest86+ came up errata free on both DIMMs.

I am now unsure if I should go at 3 GHz again with the C2s in, or just leave it be. I cannot tell if the C2PRO that broke was going for a while (which would explain why lately I needed to reduce my tRC/tRFC to prevent BSOD) or if the push for FSB 273 (RAM = DDR 401) did her in.

We will wait and see what Corsair says; their RAM supposedly has a lifetime warranty.

yah u did her in







arent warranties only in effect if u activated it when u bought it?


----------



## Blitz6804

See your club for temps iandroo888.


----------



## iandroo888

lol i just noticed, i never had a link for the AMD OC Club in my sig. now added. now ppl join!


----------



## Blitz6804

So:

An Athlon64 X2 4400+ Toledo (89 W) is superior to an Opteron 175 Denmark (110 W).

Discuss.


----------



## smb_

Did the 180 Denmark only come in 110W varations?


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz, are you referring tot he 4800+ AM2 chip? Because I don't remember a S939 4800+ that was 89W.....


----------



## Blitz6804

As far as I know, only dual-core socket 939s that came in 89 W variants were the 4200+ and 4400+ Toledos.

(Sorry for confusion. I meant 4400 / 175)


----------



## pioneerisloud

Wow blitz, congratulations on 3.0!!! Too bad you lost some RAM in the process. Crucial / Corsair, they're all good about warranties, I don't think you'll have a problem.


----------



## Blitz6804

Just taking a while. They said I would hear within 24 hours. It has now been 14; what the heck!?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Just taking a while. They said I would hear within 24 hours. It has now been 14; what the heck!?


Give em time







. I forgot to mention OCZ is also GREAT with warranties (for those with OCZ sticks). I RMA'd my original DDR500 kit which was 2x512MB. They upgraded me for free to what's in my sig. I was dying without it, but it was well worth it in the end to have some great RAM (which I may or may not have killed while dueling with the Grand Poobah from the Opteron club)....that was a while ago though.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Just curious, but does anybody in our wonderful, generous club happen to have any spare AGP cards laying around? More specifically an AGP card that DOES NOT require extra power, and that can handle 1440x900 resolution 32bit color, and can be run on Windows 2k3 (XP as well I'm sure would work fine)?????

I'm asking because I just hooked up my server finally to my new KVM switch. And evidentally the 2MB Nvidia Vanta AGP card just doesn't cut it for 1440x900. I'm actually STUCK at 800x600 resolution, and it REALLY sucks. Any help would be much appreciated.....and I am quite poor, but you guys love me oh so much







.

Thanks in advance everyone...please PM me if you find anything.


----------



## jlells01

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Just curious, but does anybody in our wonderful, generous club happen to have any spare AGP cards laying around? More specifically an AGP card that DOES NOT require extra power, and that can handle 1440x900 resolution 32bit color, and can be run on Windows 2k3 (XP as well I'm sure would work fine)?????

I'm asking because I just hooked up my server finally to my new KVM switch. And evidentally the 2MB Nvidia Vanta AGP card just doesn't cut it for 1440x900. I'm actually STUCK at 800x600 resolution, and it REALLY sucks. Any help would be much appreciated.....and I am quite poor, but you guys love me oh so much







.

Thanks in advance everyone...please PM me if you find anything.


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...nd&Order=PRICE

Here's a review for the EVGA GeForce FX 5200

"Pros: Wanted card to support 1440x900 monitor in a Dell 4550 which only has a 250w power supply. This card was inexpensive and works great. This is not a gaming card and I wasn't looking for one.
Cons: none
Other Thoughts: Put in a Dell 4550 to replace original ATI Rage 128 Ultra (32mb) to support Gateway FPD1976W monitor. Original card would not support 1440x900 monitor"


----------



## nategr8ns

well I have 3 AGP video cards that I have found, but the biggest one has 64mb of vram, and the other two have 64mb or less... I can double check though.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Just curious, but does anybody in our wonderful, generous club happen to have any spare AGP cards laying around? More specifically an AGP card that DOES NOT require extra power, and that can handle 1440x900 resolution 32bit color, and can be run on Windows 2k3 (XP as well I'm sure would work fine)?????

I'm asking because I just hooked up my server finally to my new KVM switch. And evidentally the 2MB Nvidia Vanta AGP card just doesn't cut it for 1440x900. I'm actually STUCK at 800x600 resolution, and it REALLY sucks. Any help would be much appreciated.....and I am quite poor, but you guys love me oh so much







.

Thanks in advance everyone...please PM me if you find anything.


Pioneer, if no one here can provide you with one then I'm sure I have something in my stock pile that'll run that res. Just let me know


----------



## iandroo888

lol buncha ppl volunteer when pioneer asks. when i ask.. its like. nope. >_> lol


----------



## Blitz6804

You are asking for a gaming video card. Pioneer is asking for a server card. There is a difference.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


lol buncha ppl volunteer when pioneer asks. when i ask.. its like. nope. >_> lol


Iandroo, it depends on what you ask for. Obviously if you ask for a new car I'm going to say no but if you need a IDE cable or a CR2032 cmos battery I'm sure I can spare one.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Ooh, look who's got 300...









*Pats thlnk3r on the back.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
So:

An Athlon64 X2 4400+ Toledo (89 W) is superior to an Opteron 175 Denmark (110 W).

Discuss.

Blitz, sorry would have responded to this earlier last night but it was late. In short both processors are the identically the same. In regards to the TDP I honestly don't think there is a difference. I'm sure there are some Denmarks out there that are 89W TDP









Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Ooh, look who's got 300...









*Pats thlnk3r on the back.

Thanks


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Iandroo, it depends on what you ask for. Obviously if you ask for a new car I'm going to say no but if you need a IDE cable or a CR2032 cmos battery I'm sure I can spare one.


haha im sure i can spare a ide cable too *pulls drawer full of ide cables T_T*

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Ooh, look who's got 300...









*Pats thlnk3r on the back.


bowling?  or what? "This is Sparta!" LOL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


You are asking for a gaming video card. Pioneer is asking for a server card. There is a difference.


im not asking for a gaming video card.. T_T im just asking for some mem. see if anyone can spare a stick or two. just at least i can get the rig runnin.. not askign for like 2x1gb ddr 500 or w/e.. 2x256 up to like 1gb is fine.. bloop.


----------



## DanDaManZ06

I just poped in my new 8800GT and everything is running fine but it seems that the fan on my new card is stuck at 100%... the noise does not bother me much but is it ok to leave it like that? i hate to take it back out and RMA it.


----------



## Blitz6804

Look into RivaTuner. I never really toyed with it (did not work with my card) but someone else here can help I am sure.


----------



## DanDaManZ06

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Look into RivaTuner. I never really toyed with it (did not work with my card) but someone else here can help I am sure.


where do i go to adjust the fan speed? man this thing looks complicated...


----------



## DanDaManZ06

oh nvm i figured it out... nope riva tuner did not work...the noise does not bother me much but like i asked before is it ok to leave it like that?


----------



## Blitz6804

Like I said, I would not know. Rivatuner does not support my card; I can only view settings and not modify them.

And I should think it okay. It will just shorten the lifespan of the fan on the card, but by the time it dies, you will likely be on the nVidia 9 or 10 series by then.


----------



## iandroo888

i want to get that evga 8800gts ko on newegg for 209.99 after rebate + 7 shipping :[

wahh but i dont wanna spend 217 bux lol


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DanDaManZ06*


I just poped in my new 8800GT and everything is running fine but it seems that the fan on my new card is stuck at 100%... the noise does not bother me much but is it ok to leave it like that? i hate to take it back out and RMA it.


Dan, is that a *XFX* 8800GT?


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Dan, is that a *XFX* 8800GT?


 hey dan , you tried Riva Tuner? under target adapter where it lists your card , see where it says "custom settings? go down under "driver settings" and click customize {the 2nd customize} click the 1st tab {picture of a GPU} WHEN ITS OPEN IS WHERE YOU OVERCLOCK , AND ADJUST THE FAN SETTINGS {FOR STARTUP/GAMMING}..when you save those settings it creates a "PROFILE" you can save , that will start automatically , you have options there, like for gamming etc. I didnt think it worked for my card either {XFX 8800GT} IF YOU ALREADY KNEW ALL THIS SORRY FOR THE RAMBLE LOL ........


----------



## iandroo888

think they tried rivatuner earlier already


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
im not asking for a gaming video card.. T_T im just asking for some mem. see if anyone can spare a stick or two. just at least i can get the rig runnin.. not askign for like 2x1gb ddr 500 or w/e.. 2x256 up to like 1gb is fine.. bloop.

Ummm dude, check the contest thread. I'll be sending you 2 x 512MB of Kingston HyperX DDR400 your way. You're getting stuff too, so hush, lol.

It does NOT matter to me what video card it is to be honest. RAM on it, whatever. Just has to be able to handle 1440x900 res, or AT LEAST 1280x800, lol. 800x600 is just killing me!!!! A PCI card MAY work, I'd have to check, but AGP would be preferred...just whatever you got laying around. Radeon 7000 32MB would probably be fine or higher (or whatever the GeForce equivilant is). Like I said, just something for the res for my server, lol.

Thanks a lot guys...I'll PM everyone shortly that said they've got one.


----------



## iandroo888

woot. *hushes*


----------



## DanDaManZ06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Dan, is that a *XFX* 8800GT?

yes it is


----------



## froggy1986

Joe were you on your way over? The tacos are almost done, btw my hands smell like celantro.


----------



## iandroo888

aww and u didnt invite us


----------



## froggy1986

txt was invited, but he was the only one that asked....lol.... btw, MMMM they are yummy, thanks for the idea the other day.


----------



## alexgheseger

Quote:


Originally Posted by *froggy1986* 
txt was invited, but he was the only one that asked....lol.... btw, MMMM they are yummy, thanks for the idea the other day.

If i send you a prepaid shipping label, will you send one to me?


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexgheseger* 
If i send you a prepaid shipping label, will you send one to me?






























I would but the shipping process and time would make the quality drop oh so much, and then they wouldn't taste as good, and you may think I'm a bad cook.

Just please, don't make me do the whole, PICS OR IT DIDNT HAPPEN thing.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


Originally Posted by *froggy1986* 




























I would but the shipping process and time would make the quality drop oh so much, and then they wouldn't taste as good, and you may think I'm a bad cook.

Just please, don't make me do the whole, PICS OR IT DIDNT HAPPEN thing.

GREAT IDEA!

PICS OF IT DIDNT HAPPEN!


----------



## alexgheseger

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
GREAT IDEA!

PICS OF *IT* DIDNT HAPPEN!























Is that a typo, or just a really clever joke that i don't understand, but find funny all the same?


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
GREAT IDEA!

PICS OF IT DIDNT HAPPEN!























http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...6/DSCF1310.jpg
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...6/DSCF1311.jpg
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...6/DSCF1314.jpg
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...6/DSCF1313.jpg
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...6/DSCF1315.jpg

Btw I had to cut all of that by hand with a little knife, it took forever. Is that proof enough? sry theres no b4 pix, no one mentioned they would be needed b4 I started cutting it all up.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexgheseger* 
Is that a typo, or just a really clever joke that i don't understand, but find funny all the same?









yeahhhh... typo.. >_> lol

Quote:


Originally Posted by *froggy1986* 
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...6/DSCF1310.jpg
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...6/DSCF1311.jpg
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...6/DSCF1314.jpg
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...6/DSCF1313.jpg
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...6/DSCF1315.jpg

Btw I had to cut all of that by hand with a little knife, it took forever. Is that proof enough? sry theres no b4 pix, no one mentioned they would be needed b4 I started cutting it all up.

awww +rep for pictures.. u didnt have to really post T_T looks good though. wish i was tehre to try it. aww man im hungry now >_>

*edit*

anyone have any u-channel? i never used it but i wanna see whats better compared to automotive door trim i used on my project tuxedo. not asking it for free. ill pay for it (just hope for a slightly lower price hehehehe)


----------



## Oscuro

Note:

Fans are here.....but not with me!









UPS is going to try and deliver them between 2-5....problem, I get home at 4:30.









Worse: I had forgotten the stupidity and horrors of UPS. I'd only ever had something shipped by them once before, and that was about 10 years ago.

...I paid $19 for S&H.....
Brokerage is $41.14 on a 2.1lb package.

How the bloody hell do these anal raping, outright bloody thieves stay in business? I have no damned idea.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

My lord, froggy... that looks so *GOOOOD*. It's making me so hungry...









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Oscuro* 
Note:

Fans are here.....but not with me!









UPS is going to try and deliver them between 2-5....problem, I get home at 4:30.









Worse: I had forgotten the stupidity and horrors of UPS. I'd only ever had something shipped by them once before, and that was about 10 years ago.

...I paid $19 for S&H.....
Brokerage is $41.14 on a 2.1lb package.

How the bloody hell do these anal raping, outright bloody thieves stay in business? I have no damned idea.

Ah, UPS. Bloody fools, they are. I've questioned their corporate practices many times myself. I'm on a personal crusade to bad-mouth them to anybody who will listen, just like I told their customer service representatives I would.

Hope the fans get to you safe and sound and soon, Oscuro!


----------



## iandroo888

i never really had problems with UPS or FedEX. Only 2 times that failed me once was DHL that delivered to wrong person. They brought it back next day. and the otehr time was either UPS or FedEX. i bought ddr2 memory.. shipped from LA area and went north.. i was like huh??? went thru sacremento and to sparks,nv and says it was being delivered! i was like O_O.... it stayed like that for over a day.. it came the next day at night.. lol.. 1 day late of estimation lol.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hey guys and gal, I just added a new link on our Club thread's first post: It's to a list of various processors' electrical specifications, listing stock VCore, TDP (Thermal Design Power), and recommended Max Case Temps (or, temperatures at the IHS, which are lower than the temperature readings at the core(s)).

It's incomplete, yet still fairly comprehensive. It covers many various types of S939 CPUs on there.

Hope y'all find it useful for reference.


----------



## froggy1986

Maybe one of these days, when the place finally gets unpacked, I will make tacos and all are welcome to come. I would just need to know what all you would want on them, to know what to buy, and how much of everything. Of course that would have to be okay'd with pioneer, he wouldn't like me inviting a bunch of guys over without his permission.


----------



## iandroo888

lots of cheese and sour cream! and spicy! and beef! if u can fulfil those 4 items.. ill be a very very happy guy


----------



## pioneerisloud

Hey its fine with me if everyone wants to take a trip to Crackima. Wouldn't be my loss (other than the money for the food)...they'd all have to figure out a way to get here.


----------



## Blitz6804

JOE! YOU BUM!

It is now 0405h my time zone. I specifically stayed away to play with you.

AND YOU DID NOT SHOW UP!

Well, Pio and I had fun* without you. I guess you were too chicken to show.

*NOTE: DO NOT RACE WITH PIO IN THE RAIN!


----------



## pioneerisloud

*NOTE: Do not race with Crash (I mean Blitz) in the dry pavement!!!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


JOE! YOU BUM!

It is now 0405h my time zone. I specifically stayed away to play with you.

AND YOU DID NOT SHOW UP!

Well, Pio and I had fun* without you. I guess you were too chicken to show.

*NOTE: DO NOT RACE WITH PIO IN THE RAIN!


Pffffft

I fear no man, woman or child.

Please see the now redundant Contest thread for an explanation of my whereabouts tonight.

I will take on both of you. Even if you guys have to race with automatic transmissions. I don't think I'll need to find Reverse gear next time I race with either of you...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Pffffft

I fear no man, woman or child.

Please see the now redundant Contest thread for an explanation of my whereabouts tonight.

I will take on both of you. Even if you guys have to race with automatic transmissions. I don't think I'll need to find Reverse gear next time I race with either of you...


Hey now! The only reason my race was flawed with you is because I decided to be a [email protected]$$ and grab my ebrake to see if you were still behind me!!! Bring it on!!!!


----------



## Blitz6804

I have never used a manual in this game. I did shut off auto-reverse; that was annoying.

Wanna watch Pioneer squirm? Put it to heavy rain.

In dry weather, we are well matched: I pull away on the corners, he gets me on the straights.

In the rain, there is no contested. Well, until he lived up to his name (pioneerdoesdonuts) and popped one of my tires. By the time my pit crew fixed it, he nearly lapped me.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Hey now! The only reason my race was flawed with you is because I decided to be a [email protected]$$ and grab my ebrake to see if you were still behind me!!! Bring it on!!!!


You seem to forget that my lap times were still faster than yours, even with a throttle that was sticking wide open.









That problem is now gone. You choose the track, you choose the driver aids, I'll choose the cars if you're all grown up about things.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


You seem to forget that my lap times were still faster than yours, even with a throttle that was sticking wide open.









That problem is now gone. You choose the track, you choose the driver aids, I'll choose the cars if you're all grown up about things.










Does NOT matter to me whatsoever! I'm still curious to see how the mini's race, but meh. I can play with a real car just the same (if its a dry track)







.

Just NO RAIN!


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *froggy1986*


txt was invited, but he was the only one that asked....lol.... btw, MMMM they are yummy, thanks for the idea the other day.


GEEZE we have to ask ? I thought we were family ?


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *froggy1986*


http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...6/DSCF1310.jpg
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...6/DSCF1311.jpg
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...6/DSCF1314.jpg
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...6/DSCF1313.jpg
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...6/DSCF1315.jpg

Btw I had to cut all of that by hand with a little knife, it took forever. Is that proof enough? sry theres no b4 pix, no one mentioned they would be needed b4 I started cutting it all up.


DROOLS ALL OVER THE KEYBOARD.................OOPS


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


GEEZE we have to ask ? I thought we were family ?










Well family just shows up, and since no one showed up, then that's your guys' fault not mine.


----------



## boonie2

GOT ME THERE


----------



## PhillyOverclocker

I'm in! I love my 939 rig.

Sorry bout the horrible screenie. I'll get a better one up when I get a chance.

Basically what it says is 2.53GHz CPU, 11x multi, Vcore 1.39v, RAM timings 3-5-5-5, CPU core temp 51c under load. A fairly decent overclock for this chip. Completely stable.


----------



## Blitz6804

I am curious; why have the DRAM idle timer so large? I cannot tell from the picture, but is that RAM running at 210 or 230? (200:183 or 200:200)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DanDaManZ06*


yes it is


Dan, sorry for the late response. Here are two forums that I recommend reading over with individuals describing the same issue:

http://www.bjorn3d.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20984
http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?p=1032011549

Apparently certain models of the 8800GT XFX with different ending model numbers came with the fan speed locked but some models allowed for adjusting the fan speed. A lot of users just tossed the stock cooler and replaced it with an aftermarket. The rumor was that XFX left the fan speed locked at 100% because they didn't want the cards to overheat.

Hope that helps


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Dan, sorry for the late response. Here are two forums that I recommend reading over with individuals describing the same issue:

http://www.bjorn3d.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20984
http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?p=1032011549

Apparently certain models of the 8800GT XFX with different ending model numbers came with the fan speed locked but some models allowed for adjusting the fan speed. A lot of users just tossed the stock cooler and replaced it with an aftermarket. The rumor was that XFX left the fan speed locked at 100% because they didn't want the cards to overheat.

Hope that helps











Yo, great info there, thlnk3r. I never heard about that XFX-specific issue before.









Thanks for sharing!


----------



## nategr8ns

I missed the entire race discussion








I'm assuming it was a video game, as you guys were talking about "turning off automatic reverse"








What game? I love me some race simulations







I'll show up for the next one if I own the game.


----------



## Sgtoku

My Pc Old Yeller has not kicked the bucket yet! Has served me faithfully all these years, never got rabies due to plenty of shots of spyware doctor ever other day!


----------



## Blitz6804

Welcome to the club PhillyOverclocker and Sgtoku!

I just forwarded your info to Papa Scorpion, expect to appear soon.


----------



## thlnk3r

Welcome to the thread Sgtoku


----------



## DanDaManZ06

Its not a software problem its hardware... in other words it the fan... i talk to the guys at XFX and they are sending me a new fan... apparently XFX had some kind of manufacturing glitch of some sort and some 8800GT came with out variable fans... but they are sending me a new one that is variable and its free


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DanDaManZ06*


Its not a software problem its hardware... in other words it the fan... i talk to the guys at XFX and they are sending me a new fan... apparently XFX had some kind of manufacturing glitch of some sort and some 8800GT came with out variable fans... but they are sending me a new one that is variable and its free


Dan, cool man! Let us know if that fixes the problem. Did you check out the first link I posted? Apparently a lot of XFX owners are having the same problem.

Good luck


----------



## boonie2

:d Welcome New Members :d


----------



## Sgtoku

Thanks for the welcoming. Funny, never thought there would be an appreciation club for socket 939, boy was I wrong. Nice idea txtmsrjoe btw, plenty of us still out there!


----------



## Blitz6804

Indeed.

Ever consider pushing Old yeller past her stops a bit?


----------



## Blitz6804

An update:

Corsair just emailed me saying they authorized my RMA. I should be getting the information to ship it out Monday.

*EDIT: I lied. They just sent me an RMA now. I should be mailing the RAM out tomorrow.


----------



## Sgtoku

I dont know. I am planning on keeping Old Yeller at the standard speeds for now. My next PC (which I am currently crafting as I speak) will be done after the new Cpu's come out/or the ati 4750 GPU. Depending what I see and if the time is right.

The reason for this would be the temp. I have no idea if a 60c idle temp for a CPU in the socket 939 and being a Toledo is considered hot or not.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sgtoku*


Thanks for the welcoming. Funny, never thought there would be an appreciation club for socket 939, boy was I wrong. Nice idea txtmsrjoe btw, plenty of us still out there!


Oh, there are many many sensible people still rocking S939 systems.









Except for pioneer. And maybe blitz. And possibly thlnk3r. And definitely that clown txtmstrjoe. The juxtaposition of "txtmstrjoe" and "sensible" practically defines oxymoron.


----------



## Oscuro

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sgtoku*


I dont know. I am planning on keeping Old Yeller at the standard speeds for now. My next PC (which I am currently crafting as I speak) will be done after the new Cpu's come out/or the ati 4750 GPU. Depending what I see and if the time is right.

The reason for this would be the temp. I have no idea if a 60c idle temp for a CPU in the socket 939 and being a Toledo is considered hot or not.










60c IDLE?
That sounds like a false reading man. The CPU should idle at around 20-35 degrees depending upon your heatsink/fan, ambients, etc.
Are you getting that temp from within the Bios? Coretemp? Speedfan? Everest?

At idle, you should be able to touch the heatsink itself and find it slightly warmer than room temperature.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I agree with Oscuro. Either the reading is wrong, or something is amiss with how the CPU cooler was mounted/how the TIM was applied.

I'd recommend a reseat of the HSF, just to see if it's indeed a bad mount. (Please use fresh TIM applied correctly when after removing the cooler.)


----------



## boonie2

yep if its idle at 60c , drop some eggs on it and we"ll all be over for breakfast in the morning







........ seriously tho these guyz here have great advice ...try using coretemp


----------



## Oscuro

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I agree with Oscuro. Either the reading is wrong, or something is amiss with how the CPU cooler was mounted/how the TIM was applied.

I'd recommend a reseat of the HSF, just to see if it's indeed a bad mount. (Please use fresh TIM applied correctly when after removing the cooler.)


Honestly, I don't think it's a bad seating, unless it was installed _without_ tim in the first place...Otherwise, that'd be a _really_ bad seating.

......
Oh.....and I don't get my fans until BLOODY MONDAY! Friggin UPS and their bs "Can't pick up on the same day" crap. Means I am stuck, waiting until Monday, because of their ridiculous hours, and expecting people to take time off of work to sit on their ass at home to wait for a bloody package. Bloody ridiculous.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Oscuro* 
Oh.....and I don't get my fans until BLOODY MONDAY! Friggin UPS and their bs "Can't pick up on the same day" crap. Means I am stuck, waiting until Monday, because of their ridiculous hours, and expecting people to take time off of work to sit on their ass at home to wait for a bloody package. Bloody ridiculous.

Preachin' to the choir, my man...


----------



## Sgtoku

I swear that is what speedfan shows. It was around 50c idle when I had my coolermaster water cooling on it a LONG time ago. Now I have air cooling cause I thought the water cooling was going bad at that time. Being that I got this over 3 years ago I did not know much about computers (was 20 then).

Now 23 I know more, yet could never figure out what made it so hot, I can post pics if ya want, until then I am heading out a bit. If you can tell me I am wrong for sure then believe me I am happy>.


----------



## Oscuro

Try Coretemp, I find it more accurate: http://www.alcpu.com/CoreTemp/


----------



## Sgtoku

Ok as per request here is it with Coretemp as you recommended. Is this about normal for this cpu?


----------



## Blitz6804

It is quite warm for an 89 W Toledo. The average Toledo should be idling near 40Âº C, or 30Âº C if you are running CnQ. When you mounted the heatsink on the processor, how much Arctic Silver 5 (or similar) did you use? If you used Arctic Silver 5, you did remember to remove the pink pan that came on the cooler (if applicable)?


----------



## Sgtoku

Yeah, I remembered to follow all the procedures. I did not slather to much Arctic silver 5 on it but did not do to little either. The funny thing is it was running like this (only slightly cooler) when I had water cooling on it over a year ago.

Thankfully I am not concerned about it, this PC still is able to run all the latest games (if you know how to spec the graphics right on games like Crysis that is). Anyway, Old Yeller here still has some pep left in her. I dont think I will be putting her down any time soon.


----------



## Blitz6804

I guess it must be your case then. I usually use a drop the size of the "o" in "Athlon" as printed on the heat spreader. Unlike some guides, I did not spread it at all; that is what the retention screws on the Zalman are for.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
I missed the entire race discussion








I'm assuming it was a video game, as you guys were talking about "turning off automatic reverse"








What game? I love me some race simulations







I'll show up for the next one if I own the game.

That's alright bud. We'd LOVE to have more people that I can do donuts around







. The game is Race07. If you have a wheel to play with, this game is a MUST have for any racing sim fan.


----------



## Blitz6804

As has been said, and I will keep saying, Pioneer + Heavy Rain - ABS - Traction Control = Major death and destruction. He smashed into me popping a tire!

While I suppose I could have raced on the rim (since Pioneer was donutting a few times every turn) I did the silly thing of pitting. Did you know it takes a pit crew almost a minute to change four tires?! I have picked up 10, sometimes 30 seconds. A minute with two laps to go? Not happening.


----------



## GuardianOdin

yay! for me. Posted in at 3.1Ghz again.....need better cooling







One of these days I reckon. BTW it's stable enough to run CPU-Z. I'll get a screenie some day this week for it.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Hey mates! The parts for the o/c have arrived (TR Ultra 120 extreme, ram sinks and corsair dominator, ultra kaze 120mm for HSF and a Asus 8800GTS 512!!) but I'm on Easter holidays right now, so I'll have to wait till 3rd of May that I return to fit them. I got 2 questions for you







One is addressed to txtmstrjoe specially! Does the Asus A8N32-Sli have a metallic back-plate for the Ultra 120 extreme to fit on? It's been 3 years since I saw the back of the mobo and can't remember! And the 2nd question, I'm in search of a new CPU cause that 4200+'s cache kinda turns me down. So I think an opty would be a great choice but which one? 165 or 170? Keep in mind that I'm willing to o/c the opty! Thanks mates!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


Hey mates! The parts for the o/c have arrived (TR Ultra 120 extreme, ram sinks and corsair dominator, ultra kaze 120mm for HSF and a Asus 8800GTS 512!!) but I'm on Easter holidays right now, so I'll have to wait till 3rd of May that I return to fit them. I got 2 questions for you







One is addressed to txtmstrjoe specially! Does the Asus A8N32-Sli have a metallic back-plate for the Ultra 120 extreme to fit on? It's been 3 years since I saw the back of the mobo and can't remember! And the 2nd question, I'm in search of a new CPU cause that 4200+'s cache kinda turns me down. So I think an opty would be a great choice but which one? 165 or 170? Keep in mind that I'm willing to o/c the opty! Thanks mates!


The Opty 165 would be ideal,but the 170 can OC nicely as well.


----------



## Blitz6804

It all depends on the stepping. However, given two CPUs with the same or similar stepping, I would prefer the 170: easier math!

The 165 has a 9x multi. The 170 has a 10x multi. While it would be nice to have a 180 for its 12x multi, 12 is harder math than 10. Ideally, you can get 300x10 out of the 170 out of the box, but we would need to wait and see.

In terms of cost, the 165 would likely be cheaper.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


Hey mates! The parts for the o/c have arrived (TR Ultra 120 extreme, ram sinks and corsair dominator, ultra kaze 120mm for HSF and a Asus 8800GTS 512!!) but I'm on Easter holidays right now, so I'll have to wait till 3rd of May that I return to fit them. I got 2 questions for you







One is addressed to txtmstrjoe specially! Does the Asus A8N32-Sli have a metallic back-plate for the Ultra 120 extreme to fit on? It's been 3 years since I saw the back of the mobo and can't remember! And the 2nd question, I'm in search of a new CPU cause that 4200+'s cache kinda turns me down. So I think an opty would be a great choice but which one? 165 or 170? Keep in mind that I'm willing to o/c the opty! Thanks mates!


If I remember correctly, that motherboard has a plastic black backplate. I would assume it'd work fine, and if it doesn't, Home Depot FTW!

EDIT:
Sounds like your rig will be darn close to mine. You'll LOVE IT. I promise







. Especially if you can reach 3.0GHz with that baby. The 165 can be had cheaper, the 170 has a higher multiplier, so its easier for the board. Your board will take a 165 to its top speed, I promise that. Just find whichever is cheaper and the better stepping.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


Hey mates! The parts for the o/c have arrived (TR Ultra 120 extreme, ram sinks and corsair dominator, ultra kaze 120mm for HSF and a Asus 8800GTS 512!!) but I'm on Easter holidays right now, so I'll have to wait till 3rd of May that I return to fit them. I got 2 questions for you







One is addressed to txtmstrjoe specially! Does the Asus A8N32-Sli have a metallic back-plate for the Ultra 120 extreme to fit on? It's been 3 years since I saw the back of the mobo and can't remember! And the 2nd question, I'm in search of a new CPU cause that 4200+'s cache kinda turns me down. So I think an opty would be a great choice but which one? 165 or 170? Keep in mind that I'm willing to o/c the opty! Thanks mates!


Hey MikeV, the A8N32-SLI does have a metal backplate. I used to run an Ultra 120 Extreme on it (last year, in fact).

I have to say, though, that my original A8N32-SLI died, and I believe using a tower-style HSF like the Ultra 120 Extreme did it. After Asus sent me a replacement, I did aero experiments with the Ultra 120 Extreme mounted, and found that there is a huge dead spot around the MOSFET cooling heatsinks beneath the heatsink. I can't help but think that this may have killed my original A8N32-SLI. This is why I now never recommend a tower-style cooler, especially when your system doesn't have adequate airflow to move the air around the CPU socket area.

I'd rather have a heatsink that blows perpendicular to the motherboard plane (as opposed to parallel to it) and lose a few degrees C in CPU cooling, than have great CPU cooling and eventually a broken motherboard.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


If I remember correctly, that motherboard has a plastic black backplate. I would assume it'd work fine, and if it doesn't, Home Depot FTW!

EDIT:
Sounds like your rig will be darn close to mine. You'll LOVE IT. I promise







. Especially if you can reach 3.0GHz with that baby. The 165 can be had cheaper, the 170 has a higher multiplier, so its easier for the board. Your board will take a 165 to its top speed, I promise that. Just find whichever is cheaper and the better stepping.


Hope that too mate







I'm looking on optys at ebay, will the 165 go @3GHz on air? Btw, how's your 8800gts going with the opty? Is it maxing out?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


Hope that too mate







I'm looking on optys at ebay, will the 165 go @3GHz on air? Btw, how's your 8800gts going with the opty? Is it maxing out?


The stepping matters on if it'll hit 3.0GHz. LCBQE is a GREAT stepping, hits 2.8-3.0GHz. Same with LCB9E, but I've had bad luck with LCB9E. CCBBE (I think) is also a great overclocker, but needs more voltage to get there.

And my 8800GTS is freakin AWESOME! In XP I score 11020 stable in 3DMark, and Vista I score 10700 stable. I can play almost every game 100% maxed out with 16xAA and AF. Crysis I'm able to pull of all high settings at 1440x900 (highest my res goes).

EDIT:
165 and 170 chips are IDENTICAL, just the multiplier is different. You want to pay attention to the STEPPING, not the chip itself. That's what matters with these Opterons.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


Hope that too mate







I'm looking on optys at ebay, will the 165 go @3GHz on air? Btw, how's your 8800gts going with the opty? Is it maxing out?


not all Opty's will hit 3Ghz, There are better steppings than others. All are not guaranteed to hit 3Ghz sadly to say.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Very true, what these gentlemen say.


----------



## MikeV_E36

So I should contact the seller first to get to know the stepping of the cpu! Is there a guide of the preferred steppings I could refer to? And one last question! What do you think of my RAM? It's a twinmos PC3200, is there a way to figure out which chipsets it uses? I'm afraid it's going to hold me back with o/c and maybe I should replace them also.

@txtmstrjoe
Mate would the using of the Asus mosfet cooling fan (the one that was included with the mobo) do any good? Sounds like I need a good cable management inside the case for the airflow.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


So I should contact the seller first to get to know the stepping of the cpu! Is there a guide of the preferred steppings I could refer to? And one last question! What do you think of my RAM? It's a twinmos PC3200, is there a way to figure out which chipsets it uses? I'm afraid it's going to hold me back with o/c and maybe I should replace them also.

@txtmstrjoe
Mate would the using of the Asus mosfet cooling fan (the one that was included with the mobo) do any good? Sounds like I need a good cable management inside the case for the airflow.


You could always ghetto mod a cooling solution for your chipset. That's what I'm going to do with mine. Stepping wise, just find out the stepping, post it here, and we can tell ya if its any good







.

RAM wise:
Don't worry so much about the RAM part. Just make sure you use a matched pair and whatever size you want (2GB go 2x1GB kit,etc...). Just so long as its DDR400 with 2.5 CAS or better timings, you'll be fine. Even a 3.0 CAS timing would be fine. CPU speed matters more than memory speed, and you have lower dividers for a reason







. I've had to use the 100MHz divider before with my valuecrap RAM, put it at 166MHz DDR333....didn't hurt my performance at all.


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sgtoku*


Yeah, I remembered to follow all the procedures. I did not slather to much Arctic silver 5 on it but did not do to little either. The funny thing is it was running like this (only slightly cooler) when I had water cooling on it over a year ago.

Thankfully I am not concerned about it, this PC still is able to run all the latest games (if you know how to spec the graphics right on games like Crysis that is). Anyway, Old Yeller here still has some pep left in her. I dont think I will be putting her down any time soon.


You probably have a mis calibrated temp sensor. I have an Opty like that. As long as your not getting random crashes or freezing you'll be fine.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
That's alright bud. We'd LOVE to have more people that I can do donuts around







. The game is Race07. If you have a wheel to play with, this game is a MUST have for any racing sim fan.

Don't have it








I do have a cheap wheel though, it cost $30 or something







. Ever heard of an older game called Dirt Track Racing? This sounds a lot like it, with realistic track conditions and stuff.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
Don't have it








I do have a cheap wheel though, it cost $30 or something







. Ever heard of an older game called Dirt Track Racing? This sounds a lot like it, with realistic track conditions and stuff.

I used to play Dirt Track Racing 2 a LOT! And no, Race07 is NOTHING like DTR2. MUCH MUCH more realistic







. Its like your actually driving a real car. Its well worth the $20 at your local Best Buy







.


----------



## nategr8ns

its $30 on steam!
I never thought BB would be the lowest price on anything! WOAH.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


its $30 on steam!
I never thought BB would be the lowest price on anything! WOAH.


I know huh? Yeah I just bought a copy about a week ago there. Again, its a GREAT game...but only if you have a wheel







. Otherwise (keyboard), its a waste of time. All you'll do is spin out







.


----------



## nategr8ns

Well I'm currently playing NFS Pro Street. Its ok, more realistic than previous NFSs, because they tweaked their drift physics (now its just in their drift game mode). Only single player on that one









I haven't played DTR2 for ever. I got it for one of my birthdays and played it for a few months, then picked it up later and played for a few weeks. Not sure how graphics are now compared to other games... Test Drive Unlimited was amazing! but I hated not being able to tune my car! and the graphical glitches were horrid







. I'm going to reinstall DTR2, as now I have a wheel I can play







. I'll think about getting Race07 too


----------



## bgbop15

hey guys... what is the resale value of an X2-4400 (939) these days?


----------



## nategr8ns

is that not something that should belong in the appraisals section?
just do a quick eBay search and you won't get in trouble here


----------



## boonie2

yep


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
@txtmstrjoe
Mate would the using of the Asus mosfet cooling fan (the one that was included with the mobo) do any good? Sounds like I need a good cable management inside the case for the airflow.

Not a bad idea, except that the Ultra 120 Extreme is so big, the MOSFET fan won't fit. I tried that before, and it didn't work.


----------



## iandroo888

hey txtmstrjoe. do u know what thermalright heatsinks would fit on the a8n32-sli? i wanna do like a complete thermalright system.. cpu, chipset, mosfet.. all thermalright heatsinks.. cpu, TRUE of course. chipset and mosfet.. dunoe what can or cannot be used


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


hey txtmstrjoe. do u know what thermalright heatsinks would fit on the a8n32-sli? i wanna do like a complete thermalright system.. cpu, chipset, mosfet.. all thermalright heatsinks.. cpu, TRUE of course. chipset and mosfet.. dunoe what can or cannot be used


Couldn't tell you. I've never tried to replace any of the bridge chips' cooling, or the MOSFET coolers.

But, if you want info on CPU coolers, well, here are all the Thermalright products I've used in the last couple of years on this board:

XP-90
XP-120
SI-128
Ultra 120
Ultra 120 Extreme
SI-128SE
Of these, I still own an XP-120 (currently unusued), the Ultra 120 (now in the machine at my parents' house, cooling an Opteron 165 on an Abit KN8-SLI), the Ultra 120 Extreme (not used at the moment), and the SI-128SE.

I find the SI-128SE to be the best for my gaming rig's setup. Per my tests, it only loses maybe 1-2 degrees C to even the Ultra 120 Extreme. I'll likely replace the Ultra 120 on the KN8-SLI because I'm very wary about the existence of aerodynamic dead spots around the CPU socket area (where the MOSFETs/PWMICs/VRMs are) which are inherent when using a tower-style CPU cooler. Unless you have a dedicated strategy which accounts for eliminating those dead spots (and the super-heated pockets those create), I believe that running a tower-style cooler that blows its air parallel to the motherboard plane is asking for trouble somewhere down the road.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
Test Drive Unlimited was amazing! but I hated not being able to tune my car! and the graphical glitches were horrid







.

For a far superior game, look into the original Test Drive on the Commodore Amiga 500. I still play it constantly, my first game ever of the racing genre.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Unless you have a dedicated strategy which accounts for eliminating those dead spots (and the super-heated pockets those create), I believe that running a tower-style cooler that blows its air parallel to the motherboard plane is asking for trouble somewhere down the road.

I have checked; I have no dead spots around my CPU socket. In my case, I have a case intake fan blowing down onto the board in that same area likely being the alleviation of the problem. Think it possible to lift that Ultra Extreme off you? More importantly, what are the dimensions on it if I can? It may be a tight squeeze.


----------



## nategr8ns

Somehow I don't think my commodore 64 will handle games meant for the Amiga 500. The monitor that originally came with it has very big pixels








Will do a google search on it though, I'm sure somebody has converted it into a flash game somewhere


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Couldn't tell you. I've never tried to replace any of the bridge chips' cooling, or the MOSFET coolers.

But, if you want info on CPU coolers, well, here are all the Thermalright products I've used in the last couple of years on this board:

XP-90
XP-120
SI-128
Ultra 120
Ultra 120 Extreme
SI-128SE
Of these, I still own an XP-120 (currently unusued), the Ultra 120 (now in the machine at my parents' house, cooling an Opteron 165 on an Abit KN8-SLI), the Ultra 120 Extreme (not used at the moment), and the SI-128SE.

I find the SI-128SE to be the best for my gaming rig's setup. Per my tests, it only loses maybe 1-2 degrees C to even the Ultra 120 Extreme. I'll likely replace the Ultra 120 on the KN8-SLI because I'm very wary about the existence of aerodynamic dead spots around the CPU socket area (where the MOSFETs/PWMICs/VRMs are) which are inherent when using a tower-style CPU cooler. Unless you have a dedicated strategy which accounts for eliminating those dead spots (and the super-heated pockets those create), I believe that running a tower-style cooler that blows its air parallel to the motherboard plane is asking for trouble somewhere down the road.

im getting a xp-90 and bt maybe. these may be best for our mobos due to the "fanless heatpipe" system. havent had much luck with zalman cnps7700-cu but according to my friend, the xp-90 works pretty good. and ppl like pioneer has said good things about the BT

i guess those pockets depend on your case as well. i have 3 120mm's around the cpu area. will be switching those out with higher cfm fans. should be able to pull the dead air out. this hyper tx2 actually has been serving me pretty good for how much it actually costed me.


----------



## nategr8ns

well, I removed my PSU and have it hiding behind my case ATM. I'm assuming that any air from these dead spots just floats up into the now-empty area above the motherboard >.<

Does anybody know an easy way to build an enclosure below the case for the PSU? I really want to do that with every case I have in my house








Just DLed the DOS version of TD 1, 2, and 3. gonna play them right now until dinner


----------



## boonie2

might have to change coolers myself , my freezer pro doesnt seems to do the job anymore , even with the addition of another fan on the back of it .. cores idle @ 34c and 38c...prime temps are 51c-1st core / 65c-2nd core .. alittle high for me


----------



## iandroo888

@ boonie2 - wow big delta between cores. twin fans have served me well. changing outside temperatures dont help though. dont think it matters what hsf i get with desert summer weather. unless i go like phase change haha.

@ nategr8ns - could do it out of wood. if you get like some cheap fiber board or something. should work fine


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
@ boonie2 - wow big delta between cores. twin fans have served me well. changing outside temperatures dont help though. dont think it matters what hsf i get with desert summer weather. unless i go like phase change haha.

@ nategr8ns - could do it out of wood. if you get like some cheap fiber board or something. should work fine

yeah thats what I thought too







gonna try and reseat with mx1 when i get some , see if that makes a difference .... read what txtmstrjoe was saying once about the tower coolers , got me thinking that maybe gravity might be slightly pulling the sink away from one side of the chip causing that much of a temp difference..freezer pros pretty heavy


----------



## Blitz6804

nategr8ns: be fore warned. The DOS versions of 1 and 2 pale next to the Amiga 500 version. No matter what version you have, 3 is just horrid. Yes, it was ahead of its time going for polygons instead of pixels, but it failed miserably.


----------



## iandroo888

mine isnt light but the way its mounted, i dont think it is pulling away... i hope

wahh boonie2 isnt on aim :[ lol


----------



## nategr8ns

i can't get 2 to start









what makes them better for the commodore? controls? I can't remember if I have a joystick for the C64 or not...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I used to run an Arctic Cooler Freezer 64 Pro. When I had it it was adequate for my Athlon64 3700+; it was a little lacking when I switched to an X2 4400+.

Lots of people say that its performance improves noticeably when the base is lapped and if the stock fan is replaced with something far more powerful. The tradeoff, of course, is you get much more noise.

Unfortunately, I got rid of the Freezer 64 Pro before I could lap it, or change the fan on it.

(Incidentally, this is one of the very few tower-style parallel airflow HSFs which deflects some of its air down towards the CPU socket area. It's not a lot, but it's better than nothing.)


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I used to run an Arctic Cooler Freezer 64 Pro. When I had it it was adequate for my Athlon64 3700+; it was a little lacking when I switched to an X2 4400+.

Lots of people say that its performance improves noticeably when the base is lapped and if the stock fan is replaced with something far more powerful. The tradeoff, of course, is you get much more noise.

Unfortunately, I got rid of the Freezer 64 Pro before I could lap it, or change the fan on it.

(Incidentally, this is one of the very few tower-style parallel airflow HSFs which deflects some of its air down towards the CPU socket area. It's not a lot, but it's better than nothing.)

hyper tx2 had a plastic shield thing that redirects some air down.. but i hated how that plastic thing looked like so i took it off..l bare heatsink looks a lot nicer haha. i lapped and replaced fan.. but controlled by fan controller so noise is controlled =P


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I used to run an Arctic Cooler Freezer 64 Pro. When I had it it was adequate for my Athlon64 3700+; it was a little lacking when I switched to an X2 4400+.

Lots of people say that its performance improves noticeably when the base is lapped and if the stock fan is replaced with something far more powerful. The tradeoff, of course, is you get much more noise.

Unfortunately, I got rid of the Freezer 64 Pro before I could lap it, or change the fan on it.

(Incidentally, this is one of the very few tower-style parallel airflow HSFs which deflects some of its air down towards the CPU socket area. It's not a lot, but it's better than nothing.)

I lapped mine afew months ago and added a second 80mm fan on the rear , when i was still using my 4000+ , think i might have been to anxious to get my 170 installed / up and running gonna try to reseat it see if that helps my temps


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I used to run an Arctic Cooler Freezer 64 Pro. When I had it it was adequate for my Athlon64 3700+; it was a little lacking when I switched to an X2 4400+.

Lots of people say that its performance improves noticeably when the base is lapped and if the stock fan is replaced with something far more powerful. The tradeoff, of course, is you get much more noise.

Unfortunately, I got rid of the Freezer 64 Pro before I could lap it, or change the fan on it.

(Incidentally, this is one of the very few tower-style parallel airflow HSFs which deflects some of its air down towards the CPU socket area. It's not a lot, but it's better than nothing.)

I lapped mine afew months ago and added a second 80mm fan on the rear , when i was still using my 4000+ , think i might have been to anxious to get my 170 installed / up and running gonna try to reseat it see if that helps my temps







4-5c diff at idle and 10c difference @ load between cores something isnt rightSORRY FOR THE D/POST


----------



## iandroo888

*pokes boonie2* haha


----------



## nategr8ns

I'm still lapping my ACF64Pro. I need to find time to lap again! Takes so dang long







.

School starts monday again, so I only have tomorrow to finish lapping







!!

Hey boonie whered your MK avatar go?!?


----------



## iandroo888

gee i dont know how u guys take so long lapping.. i do it pretty quick.. dont understand how some people say they take like 3 or 4 hours to do it..


----------



## nategr8ns

well I'm doing it slow and methodically, in front of the Simpsons or something else thats on







.

I started at 400 grit, and its very slow. I wet the sandpaper and then put some soap on the heatsink base, then start sanding in straight movements. I then move 45 degrees, and start lapping in that diagonal, then another 45 degrees and now I'm left to right. keep doing that over and over. Eventually the water gets under the tape, and the sandpaper comes up off of the glass, and then I have to postpone my lapping until the sandpaper dries enough to be re-taped down.


----------



## iandroo888

i do 90 degree turns.. start with 200 grit > 400 > 800 > 1000 > 1500 > 2000. dry sanding.

takes me like.. 30 min.. 1 hr max if im watching somethin while doing it


----------



## Blitz6804

Do not listen to Iandroo888 nategr8ns, he is just impatient. It is always better to be slow and take your time than try to be fast and do irreparable damage to the processor.


----------



## iandroo888

dont listen to blitz6804, hes a lazy bum (except when it comes to cooking). do what you think is right.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I need AC.

It is 33.8 god-forsaken degrees Celsius in my bedroom (92.84 degrees F) at the moment.

I hate this apartment... :swearing:


----------



## iandroo888

ur always welcome......

to go to blitz's house... he has cold weather and free food


----------



## Blitz6804

That I do Iandroo888. That I do.

Right now, it is 11Âº C outside, 21Âº C inside.

Chicken-fried steak was dinner tonight.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Despite everything, my rig's still just doing around 56 degrees C at full Orthos load on both cores right now.









That's around a 22 degree delta T between ambient and full load temp. Not too shabby for a non-tower heatsink, I reckon...









(Methinks the heat melted some of my remaining brain cells; who else would be dumb/brave enough to run a full-bore stress test whilst there's a mini-heat wave in his bedroom..?)


----------



## iandroo888

you know what would be a better idea... having blitz move to this side of the country.. would be more convienent.. hes the only one all the way over there..









*edit*

im at 47/54C


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
you know what would be a better idea... having blitz move to this side of the country.. would be more convienent.. hes the only one all the way over there..









*edit*

*im at 47/54C*

Erm, some context please, ian.

What do those temps represent?


----------



## iandroo888

folding.

*adds txtmstrjoe to sig*


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
folding.

*adds txtmstrjoe to sig*

Ambients?


----------



## iandroo888

*shrugs* its 82F outside .. i have window open.. window few inches away from comp


----------



## Oscuro

Heh, it was a max of about 15C outside, and I think we keep our place at around 18C, but I am not totally sure on that one.


----------



## Blitz6804

*Packs up all worldly goods and departs for Oscuro's house.*

You guys got snow last week no? TAKE ME HOME!

I heard rumors that Toronto will be having some flurries from Monday through Wednesday, but they will not be coming across the river. (-_-)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I'm feeling such a deep sense of deprivation right about now...

Stoopid apartment!







:swearing:


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I need AC.

It is 33.8 god-forsaken degrees Celsius in my bedroom (92.84 degrees F) at the moment.

I hate this apartment... :swearing:

thats a pretty accurate thermometer! Mine are all spring powered and lose their calibration









Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
folding.

*adds txtmstrjoe to sig*

lolzpwnt

BTW its been pretty toasty in Maine this week. 60s-70s during the day. Best decades for music IMO


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 

lolzpwnt

BTW its been pretty toasty in Maine this week. 60s-70s during the day. Best decades for music IMO



















What do you mean lolzpwnt?







I wanted to get sigged!









But now I've got half a brain to hate you, because you're complaining about your Maine temperatures.


----------



## Blitz6804

Eh, it was hot today. It got up to 28Âº C even though it is presently 11Âº C.


----------



## iandroo888

hurry up and post ur thingy on the contest thread txtmstrjoe.. or ur gonna get my foot to hate you while kicking you


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
hurry up and post ur thingy on the contest thread txtmstrjoe.. or ur gonna get my foot to hate you while kicking you

Hah.

I want to see you try.

Hell hath no fury like a hellspawn stewing in the bowels of Hades.


----------



## iandroo888

*throws a thunder bolt at scorpion from the heavens*

fine. not my foot but your gonna get SHOCKING experience


----------



## Blitz6804

*Watches all of droo's rigs mysteriously set on fire at the same time.*

Oops?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
*throws a thunder bolt at scorpion from the heavens*

fine. not my foot but your gonna get SHOCKING experience

Methinks I'll ask thlnk3r to play "Keep Away" with his contest judging write-up...









Any other insolent comments?


----------



## iandroo888

*throws a pokeball at txtmstrjoe*










*zaps blitz's house* >=[


----------



## Blitz6804

What are you zapping me for? Joe lit your PCs ablaze, not me!

(Now... if you found them in a block of ice, that would be me)

((The word is "pokÃ©ball))


----------



## iandroo888

scorpion isnt fire element so its not him..

i know that fire!!! its.... the "Amaterasu" !!!

(who is the mysterious 4th person???)

*looks around*


----------



## pioneerisloud

You guys are a bunch of BOOBS!

I'm out







.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 









What do you mean lolzpwnt?







I wanted to get sigged!









But now I've got half a brain to hate you, because you're complaining about your Maine temperatures.


















Sure you did







. How many people have actually called you androo on their first try? Not iandroo, but androo?
I like 50s-low 60s. Winter just ended so I'm not used to 60s and 70s yet









Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
You guys are a bunch of BOOBS!

I'm out







.

lolzpwnt


----------



## Syrillian

*don't mind me... I'm just watchin'*


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Syrillian*











*don't mind me... I'm just watchin'*











Dude, I was JUST TALKING ABOUT YOU! In a good way of course







. Seriously, ask joe or blitzy!


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Sure you did








. How many people have actually called you androo on their first try? Not iandroo, but androo?
I like 50s-low 60s. Winter just ended so I'm not used to 60s and 70s yet









lolzpwnt










should be here in fla , 80s


----------



## Blitz6804

Much to much for me. The A/C is on at 22Âº C.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Much to much for me. The A/C is on at 22Âº C.












I hate you.

That is all.


----------



## GuardianOdin

What do you guys think of this ThermalTake Big Water 760i ?

Summer time is just about here and I need better cooling.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


What do you guys think of this ThermalTake Big Water 760i ?

Summer time is just about here and I need better cooling.


Wish I could tell you, Guardian. I've got no swimming experience when it comes to CPU parts.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Wish I could tell you, Guardian. I've got no swimming experience when it comes to CPU parts.










no problem,I'll have the money saved up to buy it just as soon as summer is over......







Bah! gas prices suck


----------



## alexgheseger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


What do you guys think of this ThermalTake Big Water 760i ?

Summer time is just about here and I need better cooling.


Oh noes!! a water cooling kit!? don't waste your money on a water cooling kit. Most of them have a hard time beating out a TRUE









It'll cost a bit more, but you can have a considerably better setup if you custom build. Just lurk around the water cooling forum.

Here's a quick list:

Apogee GT/ Dtek FuZion
Thermochill PA 120.2
Masterklear tubing (1/2 in)
Laing D5 pump

That would probably run in the $250 range, though you can save a heckuva lot of money if you use a heater core for your rad, and an aquarium pump. Heater core rads can be picked up as low as $25, and aquarium pumps as cheap as $40.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexgheseger*


Oh noes!! a water cooling kit!? don't waste your money on a water cooling kit. Most of them have a hard time beating out a TRUE









It'll cost a bit more, but you can have a considerably better setup if you custom build. Just lurk around the water cooling forum.

Here's a quick list:

Apogee GT/ Dtek FuZion
Thermochill PA 120.2
Masterklear tubing (1/2 in)
Laing D5 pump

That would probably run in the $250 range, though you can save a heckuva lot of money if you use a heater core for your rad, and an aquarium pump. Heater core rads can be picked up as low as $25, and aquarium pumps as cheap as $40.


defiantly going to keep these in mind, wasn't there a Bonneville heatercore people have been using? Something like a 77-79 and thanks!

just a note: The reason I am wanting to switch to watercooling is becuase right now my BT is not setting properly in the CPU. The weight of it as the tower stand up is causing it to lean downwards and I am getting a large temp difference between the two cores. I have tried using zipties, but those end up stretching after a few days and I'm back to square one.


----------



## alexgheseger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


defiantly going to keep these in mind, wasn't there a Bonneville heatercore people have been using? Something like a 77-79 and thanks!


Yep, a 77 bonneville heater core. You can even get them at danger den.


----------



## GuardianOdin

I believe I can get that even cheaper at my local auto store.


----------



## alexgheseger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


I believe I can get that even cheaper at my local auto store.


Heck, if you really wanted to, you could just go to the store and say "i need one about yea big" the size of "yea" depending on the room in your case of course. But yes, you could probably get one for $20 at autovalue, or whatever store you have locally


----------



## GuardianOdin

first things first,get the pricey stuff out of the way. I believe I can get a pump fairly cheap from a local store here. The CPU block will be the most expensive parts I am assuming.


----------



## alexgheseger

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
first things first,get the pricey stuff out of the way. I believe I can get a pump fairly cheap from a local store here. The CPU block will be the most expensive parts I am assuming.

Well, you could cheap out on the block, but you'll regret it. If you want the best, PM fstfrddy, Blocksmith Extraordinaire! His blocks are all handcrafted, and pieces of art in and of themselves. They don't come cheap, but they are quite reasonable considering the quality.

Anyways, just putting that out there. Ever since i got my stinger V8, i've been shilling it to everyone







.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexgheseger* 
Well, you could cheap out on the block, but you'll regret it. If you want the best, PM fstfrddy, Blocksmith Extraordinaire! His blocks are all handcrafted, and pieces of art in and of themselves. They don't come cheap, but they are quite reasonable considering the quality.

Anyways, just putting that out there. Ever since i got my stinger V8, i've been shilling it to everyone







.

sent him a PM on pricing.


----------



## RAMDAC

Since I joined here, I learned a few useful things, first of all about the more potent and deadly death sticks and now I've stumbled upon another unknown treasure.

What the heck is a Stinger V8??? Are there somewhere pics of the cooler?


----------



## Oscuro

http://www.stingerwaterblocks.mysite...hoto_page.html

Ran by member fstfrddy.
Apparently the best commercial waterblock is still the D-TeK Fuzion. This is according o what I remember reading about 2 months ago on the Water cooling board. Something new could be better, but I doubt it.


----------



## RAMDAC

Thanks Oscuro!


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Sure you did







. How many people have actually called you androo on their first try? Not iandroo, but androo?
I like 50s-low 60s. Winter just ended so I'm not used to 60s and 70s yet









lolzpwnt










not many people.. ever since i used iandroo888, its like 85 - 90% ian.. im like gah >=[

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Syrillian*











*don't mind me... I'm just watchin'*











hoi.. go back to working on that project... im still waiting patiently.. havent busted into your house like i used to.... yet

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


no problem,I'll have the money saved up to buy it just as soon as summer is over......







Bah! gas prices suck


whats the gas prices by you? its like 3.55 for regular unleaded @ chevron here :[ dam u bush-it for the dam war T_T

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RAMDAC*


Since I joined here, I learned a few useful things, first of all about the more potent and deadly death sticks and now I've stumbled upon another unknown treasure.

What the heck is a Stinger V8??? Are there somewhere pics of the cooler?










i believe its a heatsink made by cooler master. imagine a v-8 engine.. and designin it into lookin like a heatsink.. i saw it at CES 2008. huge but suprising pretty light


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


whats the gas prices by you? its like 3.55 for regular unleaded @ chevron here :[ dam u bush-it for the dam war T_T


$3.79 for the cheap grade here where I buy it. But the price ranges between $3.68-$3.89


----------



## iandroo888

ouch


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


ouch


no kidding,oh! and top things off my nephew decided to throw a dang rock into my windshield yesterday!!!!!







My sister and her husband can't afford to replace it so I get stuck paying for it. I'm seriously getting irritated.End rant


----------



## pioneerisloud

Wow, and I thought Washington state had it bad! Its about $3.49 or so here a gallon for the cheap stuff at the cheapest place to buy it (AM/PM).


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


no kidding,oh! and top things off my nephew decided to throw a dang rock into my windshield yesterday!!!!!







My sister and her husband can't afford to replace it so I get stuck paying for it. I'm seriously getting irritated.End rant


oh ****... that sucks!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Wow, and I thought Washington state had it bad! Its about $3.49 or so here a gallon for the cheap stuff at the cheapest place to buy it (AM/PM).


ew never went to cheap stuff b4... even when i had a 92 honda accord... always went to chevron/76/shell/etc...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Grrrrr.

As if the fact that I have no AC isn't enough to make me hate you all, you can put price for gasoline into the mix.

Seen on Friday at a neighborhood Mobil (91205):

87 Octane @ $3.97
89 Octane @ $4.07
91 Octane @ $4.17

Quite literally, this is throwing gasoline into the fire that is my anger.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


oh ****... that sucks!

ew never went to cheap stuff b4... even when i had a 92 honda accord... always went to chevron/76/shell/etc...


sucks hard man, cheapest place I could find so far to replace it is a bit over $300. I have a 94 Bonneville SSE that requires the mid-grade gas. If I add the cheap stuff my gas mileage is horrid. The car ain't worth the mid-grade







184,000 miles on her.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
defiantly going to keep these in mind, wasn't there a Bonneville heatercore people have been using? Something like a 77-79 and thanks!

just a note: The reason I am wanting to switch to watercooling is becuase right now my BT is not setting properly in the CPU. The weight of it as the tower stand up is causing it to lean downwards and I am getting a large temp difference between the two cores. I have tried using zipties, but those end up stretching after a few days and I'm back to square one.

Think im having the exact same problem , as I mentioned before , lapped freezer pro w/twin fans .. 4-5c diff. @ idle / 10c diff. @ prime load ... didnt think about the zip-ties tho , maybe even a small uv post to hold it up ..... GRAVITY SUCKS







{btw gas prices in fla. = $3.60 reg. / to $3.85 prem.}


----------



## Blitz6804

In Amherst, NY (14221):

87 Octane: $3.679
89 Octane: $3.779
93 Octane: $3.879

On Long Island, NY (11755):

87 Octane: $3.799
89 Octane: $3.899
93 Octane: $3.999 (not... quite... four...)

On Monday though, there is supposed to be a 25Â¢ hike on all three grades.

Fortunately, I am in the former not the latter right now.

Unfortunately, my car needs premium. Give her regular, she goes no where, and gets about ten miles to the gallon.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


In Amherst, NY (14221):

87 Octane: $3.679
89 Octane: $3.779
93 Octane: $3.879

On Long Island, NY (11755):

87 Octane: $3.799
89 Octane: $3.899
93 Octane: $3.999 (not... quite... four...)

On Monday though, there is supposed to be a 25Â¢ hike on all three grades.

Fortunately, I am in the former not the latter right now.

Unfortunately, my car needs premium. Give her regular, she goes no where, and gets about ten miles to the gallon.


I think by the end of the summer we'll be seeing $4.15 on average maybe higher.

QUESTION for you all. If i was to go SLI on the DFI Expert,would I see a decrease in performance do to the 8x8 instead of 16x16?


----------



## Blitz6804

I remember Death Dealer checking into this. If I remember his findings correctly:

1 Card in 8x < 1 Card in 16x < 2 Cards in 8x < 2 Cards in 16x


----------



## GuardianOdin

I want the SLI,but with this Mobo I don't think SLI would cost/performance effective.At least on the Expert,now the ASUS A8N SLI DELUXE I believe would benefit from it. Or am I reading your post wrong Blitz? Muscle relaxers and OCN don't go well together.


----------



## Blitz6804

From left to right, performance increases GuardianOdin. Also, check your PM box in a few minutes.

ROSTER UPDATE:

Boonie2's join date should now be:

(02/17/2008)

serioussam's join date should now be:

(03/19/2008)

JoBlo69's join date (in the Nostalgic's section) should now be:

(03/16/2008)

-Inferno, Daemonix, reberto, and Mootsfox are still in the wind. Stay tuned.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


I think by the end of the summer we'll be seeing $4.15 on average maybe higher.

QUESTION for you all. If i was to go SLI on the DFI Expert,would I see a decrease in performance do to the 8x8 instead of 16x16?


not really

Slightly outdated benchmarks can be found here
About 100 3dmarks between x16, x16 and x8, x8.

current cards may have a bigger difference between the two, not sure.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


From left to right, performance increases GuardianOdin. Also, check your PM box in a few minutes.

ROSTER UPDATE:

Boonie2's join date should now be:

(02/17/2008)

serioussam's join date should now be:

(03/19/2008)

JoBlo69's join date (in the Nostalgic's section) should now be:

(03/16/2008)

-Inferno, Daemonix, reberto, and Mootsfox are still in the wind. Stay tuned.










thanx Blitz


----------



## Blitz6804

Thanks nategr8ns. As you can see GuardianOdin, my hypothesis was correct (with the exception of 3DMark05).

Perhaps instead, I should have typed:

1 Card in 8x ≤ 1 Card in 16x << 2 Cards in 8x ≤ 2 Cards in 16x


----------



## nategr8ns

much better


----------



## GuardianOdin

woot! 3.1Ghz !!!!!


----------



## Blitz6804

Nice job GuardianOdin! That is a 72.5% overclock! (O_O)

*Fluffles*


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Nice job GuardianOdin! That is a 72.5% overclock! (O_O)

*Fluffles*

thanks!, now if I could get some better cooling .....







to keep this baby.


----------



## Blitz6804

Pioneerisloud: I was talking to an Intel friend (GASP!) who had an nVidia GeForce4 MX440 AGP 8X. While personally, I would never wish an nVidia product on anyone, it seems that that card can add 1440x900 as a custom resolution. Perhaps you can find one in the W/FS section?


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
woot! 3.1Ghz !!!!!









AWSOME







sssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss can you hear the sizzle yet?


----------



## Brandon1337

Neat rig you have there.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Brandon1337*


Neat rig you have there.


Thanx , just switched from the same processor you have about 2 weeks ago , those 4000s are nice







had mine since i built this but finally found a 170 online for a decent price


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


finally found a 170 online for a decent price


Boonie, where at? or is it a private seller


----------



## Blitz6804

Anyone have any tips for drilling acrylic? I am intending to drill this weekend.

Why? I will tell you why.

My case at present:










You will notice, for some crazy reason, the acrylic is solid in front of a fan! (O_O)

So, I toyed with this notion:










And after about 20 minutes in PaintShopPro, came up with the following template:










So, I am gathering I will put masking tape along the back to prevent blowout. My only 3/16" blade is a wood blade. Repo_man tells me that it will work if I only lightly press the drill while spinning (almost allowing only gravity to work) and doing each hole in steps. Any other advice for a first time modder?


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


sucks hard man, cheapest place I could find so far to replace it is a bit over $300. I have a 94 Bonneville SSE that requires the mid-grade gas. If I add the cheap stuff my gas mileage is horrid. The car ain't worth the mid-grade







184,000 miles on her.


wow. my 92 honda accord had like... a little less than 170k. never put anything but regular haha. got like 20mpg city still so it wasnt bad..

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Grrrrr.

As if the fact that I have no AC isn't enough to make me hate you all, you can put price for gasoline into the mix.

Seen on Friday at a neighborhood Mobil (91205):

87 Octane @ $3.97
89 Octane @ $4.07
91 Octane @ $4.17

Quite literally, this is throwing gasoline into the fire that is my anger.











*squirts water at txtmstrjoe*

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


Think im having the exact same problem , as I mentioned before , lapped freezer pro w/twin fans .. 4-5c diff. @ idle / 10c diff. @ prime load ... didnt think about the zip-ties tho , maybe even a small uv post to hold it up ..... GRAVITY SUCKS







{btw gas prices in fla. = $3.60 reg. / to $3.85 prem.}


i redid my heatsink. i took off my ghetto paperclips i made into fan clips and used thin strips of double sided tape.. holds pretty good.. hopefully @[email protected]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


In Amherst, NY (14221):

87 Octane: $3.679
89 Octane: $3.779
93 Octane: $3.879

On Long Island, NY (11755):

87 Octane: $3.799
89 Octane: $3.899
93 Octane: $3.999 (not... quite... four...)

On Monday though, there is supposed to be a 25Â¢ hike on all three grades.

Fortunately, I am in the former not the latter right now.

Unfortunately, my car needs premium. Give her regular, she goes no where, and gets about ten miles to the gallon.


>_> sux. a car needing the highest octane gas to get stated mpg... >_<

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


woot! 3.1Ghz !!!!!


sweet. post on my amd oc club







lol

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Boonie, where at? or is it a private seller










ebay


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Anyone have any tips for drilling acrylic? I am intending to drill this weekend.

Why? I will tell you why.

My case at present:










You will notice, for some crazy reason, the acrylic is solid in front of a fan! (O_O)

So, I toyed with this notion:

And after about 20 minutes in PaintShopPro, came up with the following template:

So, I am gathering I will put masking tape along the back to prevent blowout. My only 3/16" blade is a wood blade. Repo_man tells me that it will work if I only lightly press the drill while spinning (almost allowing only gravity to work) and doing each hole in steps. Any other advice for a first time modder?


I haven't used PSP in forever! Forgot about it! Photoshop CS2 ftw









You have to be very slow and careful with acrylic. Definitely tape both sides of it, but also support most of the weight of the drill, depending on how much it weighs. You have to go VERY SLOWLY otherwise you melt the acrylic or crack it.


----------



## Blitz6804

A little over four pounds sans drill bit. Was manufactured in 1976.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Boonie, where at? or is it a private seller










Found it on Ebay , watched it for awhile then jumped at the last second


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


I haven't used PSP in forever! Forgot about it! Photoshop CS2 ftw









You have to be very slow and careful with acrylic. Definitely tape both sides of it, but also support most of the weight of the drill, depending on how much it weighs. You have to go VERY SLOWLY otherwise you melt the acrylic or crack it.


It would be a good idea to drill smaller pilot holes first , say 1/8in , then finish drilling with 3/8 or whatever size your holes are going to be , def. tape both sides tho


----------



## Blitz6804

SNIPER!

I hate your kind... (<_<)

The holes will be 3/16"


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


It would be a good idea to drill smaller pilot holes first , say 1/8in , then finish drilling with 3/8 or whatever size your holes are going to be , def. tape both sides tho











Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


SNIPER!

I hate your kind... (<_<)

The holes will be 3/16"


make sure u tape the side your drilling. and have a HOLD on the acrylic.. "teeth" on the bit can possibly grab onto acrylic and spin the panel... not fun >_>


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


SNIPER!

I hate your kind... (<_<)

The holes will be 3/16"










Its all about the "PRIZE" ........SNIPED







{better to have sniped than to have been sniped...} .........confucious


----------



## iandroo888

^ agreed hahaha


----------



## DanDaManZ06

Heh i just realized that now that i have 2 512 video cards... i have less system ram(I think I know why no need to explain)... now my computer is telling my i have 2.25gb of ram even though i know i have 3gb... if i get another GB of ram it should go up to 3.25gb right?


----------



## Blitz6804

No. 32-bit systems are limited in how much address space they have. Your video cards use up address space, thereby preventing the RAM from filling it. The best you can do is put a "/USEPMTIMER" boot tag in your BOOT.INI.

Any other fix requires you to upgrade to an x64 operating system.

I have 4 GB of RAM in both my Rigs. One can use 3.5 GB of it, the other can use 3.25 GB of it for the same reason.

EDIT: I just read your manual. See Page 4-21. You may have some success enabling the DRAM Over 4G Remapping, but I am dubious.

See page 4-18; it should list 3072 MB. If not, attempt above fix.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Pioneerisloud: I was talking to an Intel friend (GASP!) who had an nVidia GeForce4 MX440 AGP 8X. While personally, I would never wish an nVidia product on anyone, it seems that that card can add 1440x900 as a custom resolution. Perhaps you can find one in the W/FS section?

Negative. Can't find anything that old for a price a can afford







. Oh well, I spose I can live with 640x480 for now...its just really sucks when I try to install a new user or something.

To your acrylic question:
Have you thought about possible cutting a round hole the size of the fan and just using a grill? It would make MUCH less noise that way, and have better airflow. The smaller the hole is the fan has to fight with for the air, the louder it'll be...so if you have a full blown 80mm hole for it, it'll be the quietest you'll get it.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
woot! 3.1Ghz !!!!!

Wow! Congrats! Stable?


----------



## iandroo888

yah i was goin to suggest that idea with cutting a hole.. but the grill wont have anything to hold it with. the fan is mounted on something else behind the acrylic


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


yah i was goin to suggest that idea with cutting a hole.. but the grill wont have anything to hold it with. the fan is mounted on something else behind the acrylic


Hmmm, so remove the thing that's holding the fan, and drill 4 screw holes as well so you can put a grill on. That should be easy enough







.


----------



## iandroo888

yah. it is pretty easy. all there is to do is just cut the hole and drill the holes.. not like some of us having to create the window on the panel.. then cut arcrylic.. then do all that..

should be easy if u have the tools. hey, u can even change the fan size to a 120mm using a 4.5" hole saw haha


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Wow! Congrats! Stable?


 Nope, the volts are to high for Air cooling.


----------



## DanDaManZ06

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


No. 32-bit systems are limited in how much address space they have. Your video cards use up address space, thereby preventing the RAM from filling it. The best you can do is put a "/USEPMTIMER" boot tag in your BOOT.INI.

Any other fix requires you to upgrade to an x64 operating system.

I have 4 GB of RAM in both my Rigs. One can use 3.5 GB of it, the other can use 3.25 GB of it for the same reason.

EDIT: I just read your manual. See Page 4-21. You may have some success enabling the DRAM Over 4G Remapping, but I am dubious.

See page 4-18; it should list 3072 MB. If not, attempt above fix.


bah i'm not going to make a big fuss about it... ill just buy another GB of ram and see what happens... no biggy really... and besides 2.25GB of ram is good enough for now


----------



## Blitz6804

I am telling you; buying another GB of RAM will do nothing.

You would be better served removing the two 512 MB DIMMs and dropping to just having the two 1024 MB DIMMs. Your RAM will run at DDR 400 (instead of the present DDR 333) and you can set it at 1T command rate instead of the present 2T command rate.

As to a hole: I have no saw that can cut the acrylic. My only keyhole saw is 8 teeth per inch, and would not be sufficient to cut it.

I had considered cutting a 90 mm hole (it is a 90 mm case fan) and mounting the grill from my 120 over it. The lack of hardware precluded that notion.


----------



## iandroo888

the hole saw i used for my acrylic didnt have much teeth either. it wasnt for acrylic. it was for metal (for so they said). i dont know where to get a "higher tpi" hole saw.


----------



## Blitz6804

I have a wood keyhole saw. If I had one for metal, I would be set; but I do not.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


No. 32-bit systems are limited in how much address space they have. Your video cards use up address space, thereby preventing the RAM from filling it. The best you can do is put a "/USEPMTIMER" boot tag in your BOOT.INI.

Any other fix requires you to upgrade to an x64 operating system.

I have 4 GB of RAM in both my Rigs. One can use 3.5 GB of it, the other can use 3.25 GB of it for the same reason.


Blitz, that's just a limit for XP Home/Pro. With Win2k3 Ent x86 you can have up to 64GB of memory. Win2k3 Std is 4GB and Datacenter is 128GB. These are all 32-bit OS'es. The rest of the memory that is left over on XP is just handed off to I/O devices on the board.


----------



## Blitz6804

And also Vista Home/Business/Ultimate.

I should have made that distinction.

As to Win 2k3, that circumvents the issue with the /PAE and /3gb boot.ini switches. While you can do this Win XP, it will seriously reduce performance.


----------



## nategr8ns

So to increase performance in XP, there were certain settings that had to be disabled, only allowing ~3.5GB of memory?

Never new this *takes notes*


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


So to increase performance in XP, there were certain settings that had to be disabled, only allowing ~3.5GB of memory?

Never new this *takes notes*


Nate, the limit for memory in XP has always been in the range of 3.25GB-3.5GB. Honestly 2GB of memory is fine for any practical machine for everyday use. No one in this thread even comes close to using 2GB of physical memory. If your a heavy PS user or a 3Ds Max person then obviously more memory would aid you. I honestly am not sure why some individuals are insisting that they buy 4GB of memory just for posting and reading email


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


No one in this thread even comes close to using 2GB of physical memory.


Excuse me. I object!

On more than one occasion has my page file usage exceeded 2048 MB. Granted, with all 4 DIMMs in (4 GB physical, 3.5 GB technical), I run a 10752 MB page file, but that is besides the point. I have had times when mutlitasking (read: answering emails, compressing video, archiving, talking on various IM clients, and listening to WMP) where i have exceeded even the 6144 MB mark, which is where I would be if I only had 2 GB (since I make my Windows Virtual a fixed number twice that of my physical RAM).

My laptop (Vista Ultimate) would frequently run out of RAM and would disable Aero until I installed another 2 GB (bringing the total to 4 GB physical, 3.25 GB technical).

Now; the safer comment would be that "Most people will not use up 2 GB of RAM" because there is at least one documented example where someone not only comes close, but exceeds the limits of 2 GB of RAM.

EDIT: I am presently using 1920 MB of my (reduced*) available 9062 MB page file.

*Two DIMMs are out on RMA


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


On more than one occasion has my page file usage exceeded 2048 MB. Granted, with all 4 DIMMs in (4 GB physical, 3.5 GB technical), I run a 10752 MB page file, but that is besides the point. I have had times when mutlitasking (read: answering emails, compressing video, archiving, talking on various IM clients, and listening to WMP) where i have exceeded even the 6144 MB mark, which is where I would be if I only had 2 GB (since I make my Windows Virtual a fixed number twice that of my physical RAM)>


Blitz, your going to loose a heck of a lot of performance running a 10GB paging file just FYI. Your killing the I/O of your drive. If you are honestly needing that much memory then you should upgrade your OS to something that can actually use more memory. What are you archiving while reading email, compressing video, listening to WMP and chating on "various" IM clients? I'm doing all of that on my workstation at work with 1GB of physical (1570mb paging file) and I still have 389MB free and yes Outlook does auto archiving


----------



## Blitz6804

Nah, was backing up my "My Documents" folder to a spare HDD. WinRAR maximum compression and encryption.

As to video compression, Camtasia Studio 4.

And most of the time, the Virtual Memory is not used (the 3328 mb - 3584 mb of RAM can handle most of what I throw at it.)

In Vista, I never even use the Virtual Memory; ReadyBoost takes over. My only complaint is that there is no such thing for XP.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


And most of the time, the Virtual Memory is not used (the 3328 mb - 3584 mb of RAM can handle most of what I throw at it.)
.


Blitz, so then why do you have such a huge paging file if you have enough physical memory? Sorry I'm just a little confused....


----------



## Blitz6804

Like I said, MOST of the time it is sufficient. There are times when I have been using 6144-9216 MB of page file. This is why I said I could never again use a single core processor: I do too much at one time.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Like I said, MOST of the time it is sufficient. There are times when I have been using 6144-9216 MB of page file. This is why I said I could never again use a single core processor: I do too much at one time.


Blitz, sounds like to me your better off going with an OS that can actually handle more than 4GB of physical memory. The virtual memory is stored on your HD. With that size paging file you'll have problems. You don't need a dual core to multitask. I'm on a single core at work and doing just fine


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, I am stuck at 4 GB anyway due to hardware limitations. When I upgrade to AM3, I will be sure to get a x64 with 16 GB RAM.

I know VM is on the HDD, but so far, I do not have much issue with it. When I am loading that much PF, the CPU is near 70% anyway.

And ReadyBoost is cool. It completely eliminates my Laptop from using VM. It is slower than RAM sure, but faster than HDD.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Question: Regarding this discussion about "real memory" (i.e., RAM) vs. "total memory" (RAM + virtual memory -- page file): What is the real issue here? Are we talking about performance (usage speeds) or the advantages of having larger capacity?

Or has the SoCal weather just totally turned my few remaining brain cells into mush?


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes txtmstrjoe, we are.

It started off with me addressing DanDaManZ06's memory shortage. Told him it would make his PC faster to drop from 2.25 GB to 2.0 GB given the x86 address space issues compounded with the limitations of the AMD's IMC.

Then Thlnk3r and I started going on about the differences resulting from page files.

My next PC will be an AM3 (quad at least) with 16 GB of RAM methinks; likely running Vienna x64 at that point.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Told him it would make his PC faster to drop from 2.25 GB to 2.0 GB given the x86 address space issues compounded with the limitations of the AMD's IMC.


Blitz, the memory limitation in XP is just that...a limit! It has nothing to do with the OS being x86 (32-bit). If that were the case then Microsoft Data Center x86 wouldn't be able to support a maximum memory limit of 128GB


----------



## Blitz6804

Why does XP x64 support 16 GB of RAM then? Microsoft bills x86 systems as being limited to 4 GB by the hardware whereas the x64 systems are limited by the software.

My x86 Linux install is also limited for the record. Using an x64 Linux would remove the same issue.

And for the record, Microsoft Data Center x64 has a 2 TB RAM limit.

To me, it seems that Microsoft Data Center x86 has a max of 4 GB of RAM per CPU (up to 32 CPUs) and Microsoft Data Center x64 has a max of 32 GB of RAM per CPU (up to 64 CPUs). I could be wrong; I have never used Microsoft Data Center of any flavor.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Why does XP x64 support 16 GB of RAM then? Microsoft bills x86 systems as being limited to 4 GB by the hardware whereas the x64 systems are limited by the software.

My x86 Linux install is also limited for the record. Using an x64 Linux would remove the same issue.

And for the record, Microsoft Data Center x64 has a 2 TB RAM limit.

To me, it seems that Microsoft Data Center x86 has a max of 4 GB of RAM per CPU (up to 32 CPUs) and Microsoft Data Center x64 has a max of 32 GB of RAM per CPU (up to 64 CPUs). I could be wrong; I have never used Microsoft Data Center of any flavor.


Blitz, probably another limit set by Microsoft?...don't know what to tell you, but Enterprise, Data Center (x86) are all 32-bit OS'es that support more then 4GB of memory.


----------



## Blitz6804

All of which are server systems. Supposedly, something to do with the way end-user motherboards function supposedly limit the RAM. Have you ever tried Enterprise or Data Center on a standard desktop?

Also, as mentioned, they use the /PAE switch to accomplish it.

(See: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Physical_Address_Extension)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

So much of this is over my head!









Good to know we've got lots of knowledgeable S939ers in this here club.









(When you guys are done, can someone provide me a synopsis of the high points? A Cliffs Notes version of this interesting topic would be a great contribution, methinks.)


----------



## Oscuro

....It's here!


----------



## iandroo888

what is..... O_O

@txtmstrjoe - agreed. sparknotes.. cliffnotes.. one of those is fine


----------



## Blitz6804

Congrats Oscuro! How are the temps with the new fans?


----------



## Oscuro

Report:

Tore into the case, and started attaching fans hooked up the controller, etc.
Stuck in two temp sensors for now; one taped to the mesh at the front of the case, and one on the 24pin cable that's right in front of the fans. The first one (mesh) reads 20 degrees, the second reads 21 degrees (case open).

Now, the first time I booted it up, I was greeted by the sound of 4000+ rpms of screaming delta. Yes, Delta. Only one turned on. Port two was on, but wasn't powering the fan. Even so, I cracked open Coretemp....

Before:









After:









Just going to go and run some OCCT with...2 deltas.









Edit: Or I will, when I won't bother my roommates with my new hairdryer....


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Oscuro*


Now, the first time I booted it up, I was greeted by the sound of 4000+ rpms of screaming delta.
<SNIP>
Or I will, when I won't bother my roommates with my new hairdryer....


(Truncations mine)

Rheostats for the win? This way, you can dial them up when gaming or benching, id est, taxing the processor, and leave them (slightly?) quieter when you are doing mundane tasks, id est, checking email, using OCN, et alii.


----------



## Oscuro

Have one: Scythe Ultra Kaze 5.25" bay. Includes the temp sensors so I now now what my bloody ambient is.

Anyways, it looks like testing will be postponed until tomorrow. I need some serious sleep (slept like crap last night, and came home early from work because of it). Testing, and OCing shall commence around 4:40pm tomorrow.

...I'm still tempted to re-seat the HSF.....see if I can lower the delta between the two cores.....

Night everyone. For a preliminary teaser; remember that my load temps with the stock noctua fan @ 2300mhz was 52/44...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


All of which are server systems. Supposedly, something to do with the way end-user motherboards function supposedly limit the RAM. Have you ever tried Enterprise or Data Center on a standard desktop?

Also, as mentioned, they use the /PAE switch to accomplish it.

(See: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Physical_Address_Extension)


Blitz, I had Win2k3 on my file server. Hardware was the same motherboard as you with a 3600+. Regardless of PAE, Microsoft XP has a limit. This was more than likely done purposely by Microsoft.


----------



## pioneerisloud

You guys have me lost...I'll just sit back and watch.


----------



## iandroo888

*makes a bag of popcorn and sits next to pioneerisloud*


----------



## pioneerisloud

Hey, share some of that popcorn!!!!!

txtmstrjoe:
IANDROO'S NOT SHARING WITH ME!!!!!


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, probably another limit set by Microsoft?...don't know what to tell you, but Enterprise, Data Center (x86) are all 32-bit OS'es that support more then 4GB of memory.


Unfortunately it is not just a limit set by MS. The 3.5GB limit is inherent in most x86 software not just Windows. This is due to lack of memory address space in x86 versions of Windows (and most other software designed for x86 architecture with some exceptions of course).

Take my current rig for example. I run Vista x64 with 4GB of ram. While Windows recognizes all of my RAM (and can utilize all 4GB if need be) if I run say, an Orthos blend test it will only recognize and test 3.5GB of ram being that the program itself is x86 based and is not able to address all 4GB. Which brings me to another point. Even though we now have OSes that can recognize and utilize 100+GB of ram most of the software (available to the average user anyway) is unfortunately still based on x86 architecture and will use no more than 3.5GB. So, that being said, anything above 4GB is overkill for the time being. The only reason I have 4GB is because I can't run 3.5 in dual channel mode.









Wow I kinda rambled a little didn't I







Sorry if some of it doesn't make sense (although I think it does







). I'm kinda tired.


----------



## nategr8ns

just installed my AC Freezer 64 Pro and I'm disappointed. Temps are about the same as stock, with Cool Silver used.
Core 0: 40-46, Core 1: 49-56.

I'm going to try reapplying thermal paste today after school.


----------



## Blitz6804

Most thermal compounds need a "break in" period. In my case, load temperatures dropped by as much as 15Âº C between a fresh seat and a properly cured seat.

And Iceman0803, as far as I recall, XP x86 will not permit a program to use more than 2 GB of memory without the /3GB boot.ini switch. With the /3GB boot.ini switch, a program may use up to 3 GB of memory by forbidding the Operating System from using more than 1 GB.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Hey, share some of that popcorn!!!!!

txtmstrjoe:
IANDROO'S NOT SHARING WITH ME!!!!!

*** what u mean im not sharing.. i made you your own bag *points to your left*


----------



## GuardianOdin

iandroo888...I'm mailing the Mobo right now!!!









This very moment

in like 10 minutes

maybe 20

oh heck,call it 10 minutes


----------



## Blitz6804

Split the difference? 15 minutes?

I want to again thank GuardianOdin (publicly this time) for his generosity in this matter. The Motherboard would likely fetch a pretty penny in the open market, and instead, he would rather deserve it to a fellow Socket 939 enthusiast.

As txtmstrjoe would say:


----------



## pioneerisloud

Yes it was VERY generous of Guardian to share this motherboard with a fellow 939 enthusiast. +pretend rep for you Guardian! I'd give ya a real one, but the admins may not like it too well.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Thanks guys,no Rep needed. Just good OCN friends.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Oh noes!

Superman's secret identity has been exposed!










Seriously, though, well, we now all know who put up his DFI for our recently-concluded Case Management Contest. Here's a public shout out for "Superman."


----------



## pioneerisloud

GO SUPERBOOB!

(who said that?)


----------



## GuardianOdin

LOL...I do have nice manboobs if I do say so myself.....cups..snuggles


----------



## Blitz6804

While you donated a DFI motherboard, you did not need to donate that TMI factoid.

Manboobs... eww... *shivers.*


----------



## GuardianOdin

hahaha lol...But that always gets a laugh


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Iceman0803*


Take my current rig for example. I run Vista x64 with 4GB of ram. While Windows recognizes all of my RAM (and can utilize all 4GB if need be) if I run say, an Orthos blend test it will only recognize and test 3.5GB of ram being that the program itself is x86 based and is not able to address all 4GB. Which brings me to another point. Even though we now have OSes that can recognize and utilize 100+GB of ram most of the software (available to the average user anyway) is unfortunately still based on x86 architecture and will use no more than 3.5GB. So, that being said, anything above 4GB is overkill for the time being. The only reason I have 4GB is because I can't run 3.5 in dual channel mode.










Iceman, I built a virtual not to long ago that used just over 16GB of physical memory and that is all software


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Too many inappropriate replies to make!


----------



## nategr8ns

woah wait, who got a free motherboard? That makes two in a week!
Put me on the waiting list for the next one


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


woah wait, who got a free motherboard? That makes two in a week!
Put me on the waiting list for the next one










Iandroo got a free motherboard because he won our case management contest







.


----------



## nategr8ns

NVM I read it wrong...


----------



## GuardianOdin

Oil,Transmission and fuel filters are changed!....damn Emissions testing


----------



## Blitz6804

Oil filters? Fuel filters?

Wow, Indiana is really strict on their computer owners eh? What if your computer only has air filters? Are you required to change them too?

</HUMOR>

Yes, I know you meant a car. And no, it is never fun to have to watch some idiot run your car on a dymo; I am always afraid to have it launch off and smash up.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


iandroo888...I'm mailing the Mobo right now!!!









This very moment

in like 10 minutes

maybe 20

oh heck,call it 10 minutes











sweet =P

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Yes it was VERY generous of Guardian to share this motherboard with a fellow 939 enthusiast. +pretend rep for you Guardian! I'd give ya a real one, but the admins may not like it too well.


yup *nods* +rep







i read on another thread that uhh the dfi ultra-d got fsb to almost 400.. i was like... hmmmmmm.. may be a good pair with the fx-60









Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


woah wait, who got a free motherboard? That makes two in a week!
Put me on the waiting list for the next one










me







lol

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Iandroo got a free motherboard because he won our case management contest








.


yup

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Oil filters? Fuel filters?

Wow, Indiana is really strict on their computer owners eh? What if your computer only has air filters? Are you required to change them too?

</HUMOR>

Yes, I know you meant a car. And no, it is never fun to have to watch some idiot run your car on a dymo; I am always afraid to have it launch off and smash up.


uhh... no comment on that "humor". lol thats why they wont let ppl stand in front of the dyno when its running.. incase the chains break


----------



## nategr8ns

yes iandroo, I didn't realize it was Odin giving you the motherboard, I thought he was the second person to give away a motherboard








would that have been nice


----------



## iandroo888

ha. i would attempt to win that too >=D


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
ha. i would attempt to win that too >=D

You would







. You have enough free stuff coming. Let's see here, a DFI Ultra D 939 mobo, 2x512MB Kingston Hyper X, and what else???


----------



## Blitz6804

He does live in Nevada; do you really want to ask that question? For all we know, there could be a pair of scantily-clad women heading his way at someone's behest...

In other news, anyone happen to have any PC800 RDRAM RIMMs?


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Iceman, I built a virtual not to long ago that used just over 16GB of physical memory and that is all software









Yeah, I forgot about VM's







. But other than that my explanation is accurate. Based on my own observations.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
You would







. You have enough free stuff coming. Let's see here, a DFI Ultra D 939 mobo, 2x512MB Kingston Hyper X, and what else???

txtmstrjoe's TRUE or your 8800GTS would be nice... i need a heatsink for the upcoming dfi rig >_>

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
He does live in Nevada; do you really want to ask that question? For all we know, there could be a pair of scantily-clad women heading his way at someone's behest...

In other news, anyone happen to have any PC800 RDRAM RIMMs?

***. *throws a thunder bolt at subzero*


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
txtmstrjoe's TRUE or your 8800GTS would be nice... i need a heatsink for the upcoming dfi rig >_>

I take it a rig now is using a stock cooler? I may have had a spare non-stock cooler kicking around, but with the level of gloating you do, I am not quite sure I would be interested in letting it go.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I take it a rig now is using a stock cooler? I may have had a spare non-stock cooler kicking around, but with the level of gloating you do, I am not quite sure I would be interested in letting it go.

Psst, I've got a 939 rig with a stock cooler, and I haven't gotten any freebies lately







. I'd be more than happy to kick a stock cooler Iandroo's way with them Hyper X's. Just saying, lol.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

My birthday is this Friday, so if anyone deserves freebies, it's *Scorpion*, baby!









(j/k I'm not begging! LOL)


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


My birthday is this Friday, so if anyone deserves freebies, it's *Scorpion*, baby!









(j/k I'm not begging! LOL)


I already offered you something Scorpion! Granted it wasn't 100% free as it was to cover my arse on the debts I owe ya







. But still....there would've been interest paid by the freebie I was offering!

I wasn't begging neither....







. I was more hoping aloud.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I already offered you something Scorpion! Granted it wasn't 100% free as it was to cover my arse on the debts I owe ya







. But still....there would've been interest paid by the freebie I was offering!



Good points there, ye with throbbing woofer.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I wasn't begging neither....







. I was more hoping aloud.


OMG. I think Sub-Zero is rubbing off on you. You're engaging in high rhetoric and semantics now.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


OMG. I think Sub-Zero is rubbing off on you. You're engaging in high rhetoric and semantics now.



















Sub-Zero best not be rubbing off on me. That's what Froggy is for! I don't swing that way.


----------



## Oscuro

....

ookay...

Anyways, It appears that the Delta's have combined, knocked 10 degrees off of my meagre 2300mhz overclock. I have a feeling I have almost too MUCH fan for the heatsink. At pretty much 3/4 throttle, they controll the temps as much as full blast...I guess there is a limit to how much heat a 92mm HS can transfer.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Ten degrees C? Wow!

For me, that only ever happens when my ambients go way down. Even with hyper-powerful fans running on my heatsink, the ambients are so high comparatively speaking that fan speeds and fan power don't influence the temps as much.


----------



## Oscuro

Remember, this is only 2300mhz, and at 1.275 Vcore.

Trying to find my max FSB at the moment (time to start seeing what this thing will do!)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Oscuro*


Remember, this is only 2300mhz, and at 1.275 Vcore.

Trying to find my max FSB at the moment (time to start seeing what this thing will do!)


Sweeeet.

I know you're gonna have fun with that, Oscuro!


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I take it a rig now is using a stock cooler? I may have had a spare non-stock cooler kicking around, but with the level of gloating you do, I am not quite sure I would be interested in letting it go.


uhh... yeah. stock. pweeze sub zerooo i wont gloat for the rest of the week









Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Psst, I've got a 939 rig with a stock cooler, and I haven't gotten any freebies lately







. I'd be more than happy to kick a stock cooler Iandroo's way with them Hyper X's. Just saying, lol.


i have a stock cooler but iunoe. will see how much heat i get when i get that dfi









Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


My birthday is this Friday, so if anyone deserves freebies, it's *Scorpion*, baby!









(j/k I'm not begging! LOL)


ill give u a +rep







lol

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Ten degrees C? Wow!

For me, that only ever happens when my ambients go way down. Even with hyper-powerful fans running on my heatsink, the ambients are so high comparatively speaking that fan speeds and fan power don't influence the temps as much.


whoa 10C.. crazy.. i lowered my temps by 5-10C when adding 2nd fan on my hyper tx2. but with ambients raising due to weather, its not gonna help much









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Oscuro*


Remember, this is only 2300mhz, and at 1.275 Vcore.

Trying to find my max FSB at the moment (time to start seeing what this thing will do!)


1.275 O_O wow..

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Sweeeet.

I know you're gonna have fun with that, Oscuro!










*nods*


----------



## Oscuro

<.<
I think I might just have a little jewel here?

Err, realized TF2 goodness was released....so I went brutal on the 170. Did 10mhz jumps with a 7multi....then went barbaric and went to a 1.4Vcore and 260mhz core, full 10x multi. However, I do have the Ram cruising at 173...and I need to raise my HTT (780mhz ....)
Did 15 minutes of OCCT to assure that it will game....

Load temps are:









I don't know if you can see it clearly, but it's 37/51C, and that is the widest delta I saw.


----------



## iandroo888

14 degree delta.. not too bad.. could be worse like one of pioneer's rigs. whichever tho. keep an eye on the higher temperature. should be fine.

what stepping is that opty 170?


----------



## Oscuro

I seem to recall LCBQE or something similar.

Editted for truth!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Wow. Fourteen degrees C is a big spread.

How do you have the Noctua mounted? Are the fans blowing horizontally (towards the back of the case) or vertically (towards the top)?

It may be that the weight of the fans has caused the HSF to lose some contact with the IHS, thus causing the big delta T.


----------



## iandroo888

cant defy gravity. only way for sure mount is bolt down. thats why i wanna try using true's 939 bolt down kit on my hyper tx2.. wonder if it will work..


----------



## GuardianOdin

I think I'm going to take some of the extra fittings my BT and see if I can't modify them to sit better. The two hole simply feels flimsy,especially with a BT. I believe I should be able to make some metal plates with 4 hole mounts on the corners to bolt the BT down. The two plates would be connected holding them together,but not mounting down the BT. The corner holes would be the BT mounts....making any sense?

I had my side panel off today and that got me thinking about it.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


I think I'm going to take some of the extra fittings my BT and see if I can't modify them to sit better. The two hole simply feels flimsy,especially with a BT. I believe I should be able to make some metal plates with 4 hole mounts on the corners to bolt the BT down. The two plates would be connected holding them together,but not mounting down the BT. The corner holes would be the BT mounts....making any sense?

I had my side panel off today and that got me thinking about it.


I'm probably off base here, but wouldn't that plan necessitate somehow drilling holes through the PCB?

(I'm probably not getting this right, though...)


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I'm probably off base here, but wouldn't that plan necessitate somehow drilling holes through the PCB?

(I'm probably not getting this right, though...)


I wouldn't actually be drilling hole thru the PCB, I' doodle an Illustration to better explain myself.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


I wouldn't actually be drilling hole thru the PCB, I' doodle an Illustration to better explain myself.










Sweet.

That will help ol' Slo Mo Joe get the picture a lot better.


----------



## GuardianOdin




----------



## txtmstrjoe

Question: The white and the yellow are both metal plates; are they both part of the BT's complement of attachment hardware?

(It's been a while since I've inspected the BT's hardware; I only ever used the metal crossbar - the H-piece - and the two mounting bolts for the A8N32-SLI. The DFI has a plastic backing plate, while the Asus has a metal one; this could account for why I'm not familiar with those pieces.)

Apologies for all the questions; I'm actually quite interested in your idea to modify and improve how your BT mounts.

Geez, Guardian, for "doodling" that's a pretty picture!









You have mad skillz, my friend!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Question: The white and the yellow are both metal plates; are they both part of the BT's complement of attachment hardware?

(It's been a while since I've inspected the BT's hardware; I only ever used the metal crossbar - the H-piece - and the two mounting bolts for the A8N32-SLI. The DFI has a plastic backing plate, while the Asus has a metal one; this could account for why I'm not familiar with those pieces.)

Apologies for all the questions; I'm actually quite interested in your idea to modify and improve how your BT mounts.

Geez, Guardian, for "doodling" that's a pretty picture!









You have mad skillz, my friend!


Tanks!,wait till you see my comicbook Illustrations. I'm doing a Batman Vs Manbat submission for DC Comics. I'll post a page or two when I finish.

Back to the bracket:
The yellow bottom plate would be the plastic plate that came with the DFI Mobo. The top metal plate would replace the plastic plate that also came standard with the DFI. I could go metal on both to be honest. This way we could use the other brackets that came with BT. Much sturdier I would think. The H piece tends to let the BT slide back and forth becuase of the weight.


----------



## Oscuro

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Wow. Fourteen degrees C is a big spread.

How do you have the Noctua mounted? Are the fans blowing horizontally (towards the back of the case) or vertically (towards the top)?

It may be that the weight of the fans has caused the HSF to lose some contact with the IHS, thus causing the big delta T.

Horizontal. Keeping it inlin with the twin 120mm's at the back. At the top I only have an 80mm that came with the case....that I don't have plugged in.
The Noctua is mounted using the stock mounting hardware which, looks exactly like this:


















The screws bottom out into a metal backing plate... So it is possible that the added weight of the fans is pulling on it a wee-bit too much.


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Back to the bracket:
The yellow bottom plate would be the plastic plate that came with the DFI Mobo. The top metal plate would replace the plastic plate that also came standard with the DFI. I could go metal on both to be honest. This way we could use the other brackets that came with BT. Much sturdier I would think. The H piece tends to let the BT slide back and forth becuase of the weight.


That seems like a very good idea if I'm getting that right. Are you talking about using the original holes to hold the two onto the board and each other, and then the extra 4 so it mounts kind of like an Intel? Let me know how that works and if I'm far from the idea, let me know, I might try to steal your idea if it works well because it seems 4 screws would not only mount it more sturdy but also more even, and maybe fixing my strange temps. Either way, it seems like an interesting, yet very good, idea. Best of luck and keep us posted on how well it works.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *froggy1986*


That seems like a very good idea if I'm getting that right. Are you talking about using the original holes to hold the two onto the board and each other, and then the extra 4 so it mounts kind of like an Intel? Let me know how that works and if I'm far from the idea, let me know, I might try to steal your idea if it works well because it seems 4 screws would not only mount it more sturdy but also more even, and maybe fixing my strange temps. Either way, it seems like an interesting, yet very good, idea. Best of luck and keep us posted on how well it works.










Actually your spot on! It would be nice if that solved some of our temp issues.


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, we are going to need to apply "wait-and-see" here, because I do not yet know for sure who is getting the heatsink, or even if I will be letting go of it.

And I think it would be on an as-needed basis when/if I do let it go.


----------



## DanDaManZ06

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DanDaManZ06*


Its not a software problem its hardware... in other words it the fan... i talk to the guys at XFX and they are sending me a new fan... apparently XFX had some kind of manufacturing glitch of some sort and some 8800GT came with out variable fans... but they are sending me a new one that is variable and its free



Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Dan, cool man! Let us know if that fixes the problem.

Good luck










i just got in the new fan... and i just replaced the old one placed it into my computer.... now i can hear my self think... it totally worked i go into nvidia control panel and now i can adjust the fan speeds... IN OTHER WORD YEAH IT FIXED MY PROBLEM i notest something before i replaced the fan... that the wire, 4 pin plug thing what ever its call had only 2 wires and the new one had 4 wires(i hope that made sense)


----------



## nategr8ns

the two wires it had were for power, the two it was missing were for fan control








congratulations! I never would have expected a company to send a replacement part like that, but I guess it lets them keep a customer


----------



## Blitz6804

I learned something today.

It seems that while my TWINX2048-3200C2PRO RAM was designed to run 2-3-3-6-1T @ 2.65 V, it seems that my TWINX2048-3200C2PT RAM was designed to run at 2-3-3-6-1T @ 2.*7*5 V.

That explains why I got BSODs when I tried to lower the DDRV 0.11 V a few days ago.

I heard back from Corsair. As I knew, they informed me that the PROs are obsolete (why he could not just say "discontinued" since they are superior to the C2PTs) and offered to replace them with C2PTs. If I would rather, he also offered me DDR2 RAM.

As there was a $110 price difference at the time between the C2PTs and the C2PROs, I replied that I would like to either get a refund on the C2PROs (such that I can by the C2PTs from scratch, now saving $150) or for the C2PTs and a check for the difference in price. Twelve hours later, no response yet.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


just installed my AC Freezer 64 Pro and I'm disappointed. Temps are about the same as stock, with Cool Silver used.
Core 0: 40-46, Core 1: 49-56.

I'm going to try reapplying thermal paste today after school.


Hey Nate , try putting another 80mm fan in the rear of the freezer pro pulling air out towards the rear fan {see my profile picture} also lapping helps alot with the freezer pros theyre pretty rough right out of the box







Blitz is right too theres a burn it period for the thermal paste


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I learned something today.

It seems that while my TWINX2048-3200C2PRO RAM was designed to run 2-3-3-6-1T @ 2.65 V, it seems that my TWINX2048-3200C2PT RAM was designed to run at 2-3-3-6-1T @ 2.*7*5 V.

That explains why I got BSODs when I tried to lower the DDRV 0.11 V a few days ago.

I heard back from Corsair. As I knew, they informed me that the PROs are obsolete (why he could not just say "discontinued" since they are superior to the C2PTs) and offered to replace them with C2PTs. If I would rather, he also offered me DDR2 RAM.

As there was a $110 price difference at the time between the C2PTs and the C2PROs, I replied that I would like to either get a refund on the C2PROs (such that I can by the C2PTs from scratch, now saving $150) or for the C2PTs and a check for the difference in price. Twelve hours later, no response yet.










Theyre in a panic now , "hey boss , we got a live one here , he wants a REFUND"














THEY CANT FOOL ALL THE PEOPLE ALL THE TIME ...................


----------



## Blitz6804

Or like I said, I would happily take a price differential. My warranty calls for replacement with "Equal or greater product." They cannot offer me an equal product, and they have no greater product that I can use (since they also discontinued DDR 500). Their only option was to do what they did, offer me a lesser product and hope I did not notice.


----------



## alexgheseger

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Or like I said, I would happily take a price differential. My warranty calls for replacement with "Equal or greater product." They cannot offer me an equal product, and they have no greater product that I can use (since they also discontinued DDR 500). Their only option was to do what they did, offer me a lesser product and hope I did not notice.

Heh, a similar thing happened to me when 1 GB 2900xt died. They tried to shill me a 3850. Of course, i replied "No thank you, i am not actively looking for a downgrade. However, an excellent replacement would be a 3870x2..." and that's what i got







.

I guess in your case though, they don't really have much of a choice. They pretty much have to give you the price differential, or a crapload of "swag" to sweeten the pot. Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Heh, if they give me a full refund, I may even be tempted to buy 4 GB of Mushkin Redline (now available for $254) which was only $20 more than I paid for the C2PROs to begin with. Then my 2-month old C2PTs would be up for sale.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

For people who are too lazy to test, here is a short account of why testing really reaps benefits if you do it properly.

A short story: Recently here in SoCal, there had been a bit of a mini-heat wave. I'm sure you all remember all the complaining I'd been doing here.









Anyway, I'd been concerned about the temps my system were showing, so I tried to analyze the situation. I tried to see what I could do to bring the core temps down: I knew that there is nothing I can do about influencing my bedroom's ambient temperatures; my heatsink has had a plethora of powerful fans mounted on it, all with very little appreciable effects on lowering temperatures; reseating the HSF was an option, albeit one I was reluctant to take because I'm fairly confident with my TIM application techniques; I changed the fans (configured as twin exhausts) mounted at the top of my case to a pair of more powerful fans, to see if I could evacuate the hot air faster and hopefully improve the CPU temps.

None of the aforementioned options panned out resulted in any improvements, so I thought about the options some more. At work today, another option presented itself: I could try flipping the top two fans and use them as intake fans.

But I had to see if there would be any difference if I took this step. Accordingly, I ran OCCT (Blend/Mix) for 30 minutes and took note of the ambient temperature (24.1 degs C) with the fans on exhaust.

Core0









Core1









Then I let the rig cool down, flipped the top two fans to intake, took note of the ambients again (24.6 degs C), then ran OCCT (Blend/Mix) for 30 minutes again.

Core0









Core1









I reckon a drop of 4 degs C minimum per core isn't too bad.









Hence the lesson: Test, my friends! Don't be afraid to tinker and test ideas. You never know where the best solutions might be.


----------



## Blitz6804

To me, that makes it seem as if you had too many exhausts and not enough intakes. Usually, you want the front and sides as intakes, the rears and tops as exhausts, but whatever works for you is good.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


To me, that makes it seem as if you had too many exhausts and not enough intakes. Usually, you want the front and sides as intakes, the rears and tops as exhausts, but whatever works for you is good.


I'd run similar fan configuration tests in the past, when I ran the Ultra 120 Extreme on the same chip. With that cooler, there was little appreciable difference in temps no matter what setup I used, so I left the fan configuration as top twin fans and rear fan as exhaust, with a single intake fan (middle chamber fan).

But then it occurred to me that the SI-128SE is a very different type of CPU cooler; I'd lose nothing if I did the test, but could gain a lot.

Which, of course, is what happened.









Assume nothing; test everything, I say!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Glad to see you got them temps down a little joe







. Granted they're crazy low to begin with. I may have to send you my rig and Froggy's rig to let you get them to run cooler







.


----------



## alexgheseger

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Glad to see you got them temps down a little joe







. Granted they're crazy low to begin with. I may have to send you my rig and Froggy's rig to let you get them to run cooler







.

take the plunge







You won't regret it.

Water cooling FTW...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexgheseger* 
take the plunge :snorkle: You won't regret it.

Water cooling FTW...

I wish I could. I've DREAMED of it ever since I heard of WC. I even bought a cheapo prebuilt about a year ago. That swayed me away from water since that incident. Paid $75 for a stupid watercooler. Had a 80mm fan on the rad (I think that's the name?). Two tubes, and a pump (think that's the right name again?) and block were all one piece. It was a prebuilt, so I couldn't even change the coolant in it. Biggest waste of $75 I've ever spent. That stupid "cooler" died two days later and took my C2D with it.

*Yes guys, you read that right. I at one time had a C2D machine!* e6300, ASUS MicroATX board (no overclocking support in BIOS), AGP Sapphire X1650PRO, 1GB Corsair VS DDR400, sweet Raidmax Demon case with blue and red lighting...the works! When that "water cooling" died and took my CPU with it, I was forced to buy a Celeron 352 (3.2GHz), and decided the hell with it, why not try software overclocking. I took that Celery up to 4.5GHz stable!!!! Then sold the rig for over $1000 on Craigslist







. I'm evil. But then I went to the good side, and bought my sig rig (the beginning of it).


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexgheseger* 
take the plunge







You won't regret it.

Water cooling FTW...

I'm planning on it myself


----------



## alexgheseger

Ouch, that sucks. That would be enought to put anyone off of WC. Fried components FTL.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
I'm planning on it myself









Just remember, water cooling is like doing the brakes on your car... You can do it cheaply, but chances are you'll regret it







.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexgheseger* 
Just remember, water cooling is like doing the brakes on your car... You can do it cheaply, but chances are you'll regret it







.

please....don't mention cars parts again......







I have to buy $4000 in auto parts shortly.

But yes your right. I'll be buying a part at a time for WC'ing. First will be the Block.


----------



## alexgheseger

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
please....don't mention cars parts again......







I have to buy $4000 in auto parts shortly.

But yes your right. I'll be buying a part at a time for WC'ing. First will be the Block.

ugghh, that sucks man. You should be like me, and have a car that isn't even worth spending $800 to fix







.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexgheseger* 
ugghh, that sucks man. You should be like me, and have a car that isn't even worth spending $800 to fix







.

My car really isn't worth spending 4k on,BUT pricing a good used car,a new car and the cost of just fixing my current car. It will be cheaper to fix what I already own. Engine,Transmission,brakes/rotors,subframe and suspension will cost less in the long run. Plus I know how to do the work so I don't have pay a mechanic.


----------



## Oscuro

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
My car really isn't worth spending 4k on,BUT pricing a good used car,a new car and the cost of just fixing my current car. It will be cheaper to fix what I already own. Engine,Transmission,brakes/rotors,subframe and suspension will cost less in the long run. Plus I know how to do the work so I don't have pay a mechanic.

Then why fix, when you can improve?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Oscuro* 
Then why fix, when you can improve?









fix'in with quality parts!







I'll be using the parts from a 95 SSE "sport edition Bonneville" all of which mounts right up to my 94.







beefier suspension as well.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Any of our nice 939 people wanna bump this thread for me? I'm off to bed for now, and I can't bump it yet...but I could REALLY use some of the early morning top slots because I KNOW lots of people are gonna start signing onto OCN while at work







. Thanks if you do, or can help with the answer!


----------



## Blitz6804

I too considered water cooling.

However, given my luck with computers, I know that it will leek check fine. The second I button the case up, a hose will pop spraying coolant all over everything inside the case ruining it all.

Nuts to that!

The only way I will have water cooling installed is if I get a rig from someone like Falcon-NW, CyberpowerPC, Alienware, et alii. Any self-built system will remained air cooled for the indeterminate foreseeable future.

As to Pioneer:

And to think I knew you... *shuns.*


----------



## thlnk3r

Joe, very interesting results on the testing. I believe this was something we discussed last time we had lunch. I'm thinking about trying the same thing in my CM690 and using the top fans as intakes. We'll see how the results go.

Great job


----------



## GuardianOdin

So these CoolMaster Cases are great then? I have been wanting to the CM Stacker 830 Evolution  It looks like the aircooling would be great in it.


----------



## nategr8ns

well for that price it damn well better have amazing air-cooling properties... I personally wouldn't get any case that expensive, but if you want to and you have the cash, go ahead.
I would get an Antec, the 300 and 900 look and cool good and well, and the CM Stacker 690 is loved here by all.
Too bad Arctic Cooling doesn't make cases, their prices are so cheap and their cooling is pretty amazing.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


So these CoolMaster Cases are great then? I have been wanting to the CM Stacker 830 Evolution  It looks like the aircooling would be great in it.


For air cooling, the CM Stacker range is quite reputable. CoolerMaster's CM690 is also a good, stylish air cooling-optimized case (my old one is now thlnk3r's; no wonder he says he likes me







). Another case with a great reputation for air cooling is the Antec Nine Hundred. Of these, I've only had the CM690. I want to get the Stacker 830/832, though, just to see how well it can be made to work.

Cases I've had great air cooling experiences include the Silverstone TJ09, the CM690, and the very under-rated Enermax Uber Chakra. Of these, the Uber Chakra is probably the best value (in terms of performance for cost); it cools better than the CM690, for instance. The TJ09, though, is my personal favorite case.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


the CM Stacker 690 is loved here by all.


Little OT here: CM 690 FTW!!!!!111


----------



## nategr8ns

thank you thinker








btw, nothing in this thread is really off-topic IMO


----------



## GuardianOdin

I dig the 4 120 fan set up on the Stacker 830, one of the main reasons I want it and the fact it's a full tower. I'm checking out the others now.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


I dig the 4 120 fan set up on the Stacker 830, one of the main reasons I want it and the fact it's a full tower. I'm checking out the others now.


Actually, the 4 x 120mm fan frame that the Stacker 83x has is an interesting feature. It's great for someone who likes testing







as I would expect a lot of study to go into how to actually set up your fans. Using a "brute force" approach, i.e. just using all fans for intake or all for exhaust, may prove counter-productive: You may wind up disturbing the internal aerodynamics inside the case if set-up work is not done with great care.

Oh, if only I had a bottomless bank account... I'd love to get my hands on a Stacker!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Actually, the 4 x 120mm fan frame that the Stacker 83x has is an interesting feature. It's great for someone who likes testing







as I would expect a lot of study to go into how to actually set up your fans. Using a "brute force" approach, i.e. just using all fans for intake or all for exhaust, may prove counter-productive: You may wind up disturbing the internal aerodynamics inside the case if set-up work is not done with great care.

Oh, if only I had a bottomless bank account... I'd love to get my hands on a Stacker!










I would do some testing on the airflow. Main concern is dust. I have always liked to add filters to all my fans except the exhaust, but doing that cuts down the airflow a good bit. So having some brute force behind never really hurts in that case. Being able to pull the Mobo out instead of having to completely remove it is another feature I like. I normally clean the dust out of my rig once a month maybe twice depending.

My bank account is always ALWAYS empty. Thank god for overdraft protection









EDIT: just a thought.If I went watercooled,I wouldn't need all the fans....


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Oh yeah.

For sure, a removable motherboard tray is one of those great features whose advantages/convenience I never really appreciated until I got the TJ09.

thlnk3r was laughing at me in an email recently when I told him that I was infatuated with the Tagan A+ Black Pearl; I had told him that if I could get any PC-related birthday gifts this year, it would definitely be that case. I like me some sexy PC cases!


----------



## GuardianOdin

ahh...that is a sexy case.


----------



## Oscuro

Man....I need to get a second intake fan on the 810 here....Two exhaust (with the delta's pushing through them.....erp...), and a single Noctua trying to breath through the mesh and filters, and then over a pair of hard drives....I need more air in.
Just need to find a way to convince someone at work to write up an autocad file for a fan mount, cut it with the laser, and then need someone to bend the damned thing.

And then I need to buy another fan....*groan*


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Being able to pull the Mobo out instead of having to completely remove it is another feature I like. I normally clean the dust out of my rig once a month maybe twice depending.

My bank account is always ALWAYS empty. Thank god for overdraft protection









EDIT: just a thought.If I went watercooled,I wouldn't need all the fans....









empty bank accounts + $250 case + watercooling is not a good combination









That Tagan case is awesome, and its so big! CRAZY!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
empty bank accounts + $250 case + watercooling is not a good combination









That Tagan case is awesome, and its so big! CRAZY!

tell me about it. I may have to go get a second job. If only to buy PC parts


----------



## froggy1986

Pioneer and I are discussing my paint mod and I mentioned painting the drive bays, and fronts of my drives. He doesn't think that it would work, and that I should just leave the outside of my case black and speckle it how it is, he believes that the drives paint would scratch off too easily. Anyone else think my idea wouldn't work, or that it wouldn't be a good idea?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *froggy1986* 
Pioneer and I are discussing my paint mod and I mentioned painting the drive bays, and fronts of my drives. He doesn't think that it would work, and that I should just leave the outside of my case black and speckle it how it is. Anyone else think my idea wouldn't work, or that it wouldn't be a good idea?

I didn't say it wouldn't work, I said it be a lot of extra work. I personally like the black, but speckled paint OVER the black would look kinda nice







.

Also, anyone wanna check out my mod idea found here? Please ignore the poor MSPaint job







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *froggy1986*


Pioneer and I are discussing my paint mod and I mentioned painting the drive bays, and fronts of my drives. He doesn't think that it would work, and that I should just leave the outside of my case black and speckle it how it is, he believes that the drives paint would scratch off too easily. Anyone else think my idea wouldn't work, or that it wouldn't be a good idea?


It all depends on 1) the type of paint you use, and 2) how you do the painting.

If you want durable paint that also looks good, I suggest using automotive-grade lacquer paint over a self-etching primer base coat. If you want a glossy finish, just top the paint with a suitable top coat.

When building automotive scale models were my favorite hobby, I used either real auto paint or paint similar to this. That's just one source of paint used on scale model cars; I have links to other sources. Alternatively, you can go to a local hobby store and look at what they might have there. Tamiya makes an excellent acrylic lacquer paint as well as the correct primer, so there are no compatibility issues to deal with.

It's key to use a proper primer coat; use the wrong one, and the solvents in the primer and/or the paint itself will *melt the plastic pieces*. The metal parts of the case will be fine, but you'll have deformed plastic bits that would probably not be useful.









Do you plan on using rattle cans or an airbrush/paint gun?


----------



## alexgheseger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *froggy1986*


Pioneer and I are discussing my paint mod and I mentioned painting the drive bays, and fronts of my drives. He doesn't think that it would work, and that I should just leave the outside of my case black and speckle it how it is, he believes that the drives paint would scratch off too easily. Anyone else think my idea wouldn't work, or that it wouldn't be a good idea?


It's actually not too hard at all. Just pull off the covers, and the front plates, and paint them. Nothing special there, if you've got a phillips screwdriver and maybe 30 minutes, you should be able to do it.

And yeah, like Txtmstrjoe said, make sure to use the proper paint.


----------



## GuardianOdin

They pop off,just be careful with them.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


It all depends on 1) the type of paint you use, and 2) how you do the painting.

If you want durable paint that also looks good, I suggest using automotive-grade lacquer paint over a self-etching primer base coat. If you want a glossy finish, just top the paint with a suitable top coat.

When building automotive scale models were my favorite hobby, I used either real auto paint or paint similar to this. That's just one source of paint used on scale model cars; I have links to other sources. Alternatively, you can go to a local hobby store and look at what they might have there. Tamiya makes an excellent acrylic lacquer paint as well as the correct primer, so there are no compatibility issues to deal with.

It's key to use a proper primer coat; use the wrong one, and the solvents in the primer and/or the paint itself will *melt the plastic pieces*. The metal parts of the case will be fine, but you'll have deformed plastic bits that would probably not be useful.









Do you plan on using rattle cans or an airbrush/paint gun?


Hey Joe,can you list some links for us for the paint?


----------



## GuardianOdin

doubled postededed


----------



## pioneerisloud

Ahh man, nobody looked at my mod idea







. I even made a link and everything







.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Ahh man, nobody looked at my mod idea







. I even made a link and everything







.



awww...







..it's ok little buddy. I looked at it


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


It's key to use a proper primer coat; use the wrong one, and the solvents in the primer and/or the paint itself will *melt the plastic pieces*. The metal parts of the case will be fine, but you'll have deformed plastic bits that would probably not be useful.









Do you plan on using rattle cans or an airbrush/paint gun?


The damaging the plastic is the main thing that I am afraid of doing but it wouldn't look right leaving them black when the rest of the case is going to be blue and green. I planned on removing the fronts before painting of course, but I just want to be sure that they are going to be the same colors as the rest of the case, or I would just buy two kinds of paint.

I am planning on using spray paint for the simple fact that I have only seen cases painted that way. If there is a better/cheaper way, then I may be able to borrow my dads sprayer. I have never painted anything other than walls so I'm pretty clueless on the best ways to go about painting the case. I only know the basics that I have seen from logs on here. I still got alot of looking around online for the best ways.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


awww...







..it's ok little buddy. I looked at it










You're looking at the wrong mod









The mod I was talking about is here.

I'm wanting to mod and paint my sig rig.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


You're looking at the wrong mod









The mod I was talking about is here.

I'm wanting to mod and paint my sig rig.


well now I'm subscribed to both


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


well now I'm subscribed to both










Lol, that works! My mod "idea" thread won't actually contain the real mod. It probably won't happen till next month or later







. Short on cash as usual.


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


It probably won't happen till next month or later







. Short on cash as usual.


Which is also why mine hasn't been started


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Lol, that works! My mod "idea" thread won't actually contain the real mod. It probably won't happen till next month or later







. Short on cash as usual.


do what I do,get a 2nd and 3rd job







and then realize you still don't have enough money


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


do what I do,get a 2nd and 3rd job







and then realize you still don't have enough money


----------



## Blitz6804

An update on the Corsair front:

They told me they can either replace the RAM or give me a refund. For a refund, I must send a copy of my original receipt (again). I also got an email telling me the new RAM is on its way.

Wow, holy double-talk Batman!

I called them, I want the refund. My PROs (fastest RAM at the time) cost me $232. The PTs they want to replace it with cost $100!

My plan is is to apply the $232 toward the purchase of 4 GB of Mushkin Redline ($264).

I know not yet what I will do with the 2 GB of 2 month old PTs. They are either going to my little sister (her P4 HT runs 2x512 Kingston DDR 434, 2x512 Corsair Value Select DDR 400) or for sale. Unfortunately, they are too "old" to go back to Newegg. Oh well.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Will post links for paint sources ASAP.

(My current set of bookmarks does not have the links we need.)









@ blitz: What did I tell you? Good to know Corsair is taking care of you well.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Will post links for paint sources ASAP.

(My current set of bookmarks does not have the links we need.)









@ blitz: What did I tell you? Good to know Corsair is taking care of you well.










lol take your time,we're all broke now anyway to buy paint


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


lol take your time,we're all broke now anyway to buy paint




















Oh yes. I know that pain all too well. LOL

But yeah; as soon as I track down the right links, I'll post them post-haste.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I'll have to buy paint, primer, sand paper, clear coat, and bolts / nuts for my mod. I'm hoping it'll work out well enough once I can afford it though







.


----------



## nategr8ns

don't worry pioneer, I checked out that mod








subscribing


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Oh yeah.

For sure, a removable motherboard tray is one of those great features whose advantages/convenience I never really appreciated until I got the TJ09.

thlnk3r was laughing at me in an email recently when I told him that I was infatuated with the Tagan A+ Black Pearl; I had told him that if I could get any PC-related birthday gifts this year, it would definitely be that case. I like me some sexy PC cases!










Nice case! Very Lian-Li 'esque (referring to linked case). I am going to be getting a new case soon (provided funds allow for it). I was going to get a stacker 830/832 also but then I came across this case. The outside is elegantly simple much like the one you linked to. In fact that is one of my favorite things about it.


----------



## iandroo888

Conversion to full AMD has begun last night.

temporarily using Zalman CNPS7700 on the DFI LanPartyUT nF4 Ultra-D and FX-60 until i get mounting bracket and xp-90.

room got messy again :[


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


An update on the Corsair front:

They told me they can either replace the RAM or give me a refund. For a refund, I must send a copy of my original receipt (again). I also got an email telling me the new RAM is on its way.

Wow, holy double-talk Batman!

I called them, I want the refund. My PROs (fastest RAM at the time) cost me $232. The PTs they want to replace it with cost $100!

My plan is is to apply the $232 toward the purchase of 4 GB of Mushkin Redline ($264).

I know not yet what I will do with the 2 GB of 2 month old PTs. They are either going to my little sister (her P4 HT runs 2x512 Kingston DDR 434, 2x512 Corsair Value Select DDR 400) or for sale. Unfortunately, they are too "old" to go back to Newegg. Oh well.










GIVE EM TO LIL SIS


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


Conversion to full AMD has begun last night.

temporarily using Zalman CNPS7700 on the DFI LanPartyUT nF4 Ultra-D and FX-60 until i get mounting bracket and xp-90.

room got messy again :[



My lame arse forgot the brackets and I/O. Still looking for that dang I/O plate....


----------



## Blitz6804

I just installed my new Thermalright SI-128.

WHAT A NIGHTMARE!

Now that it is in, I am noticing a drop of 8Âº C (just seated) on the Thermalright versus the (well-cured) Zalman CNPS9500 LED. I am going to give it a try for a while, but then will likely be selling the Zalman.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Because it's my birthday







, I will take the opportunity to take all the glory for blitz's temperature improvements. You see, I recommended the SI-128 for his rig, and I'm very happy to see that it is performing quite well for him.









Okay... I suppose this is where my "lost weekend" begins.

Be good to each other, people! I'll be in ian's neck of the woods tomorrow, to celebrate my best friend's bachelor party. To be perfectly honest, the whole thing has caused so much personal consternation, but since I have no real choice to do what I want these days, I may as well just bite the bullet and try to have some kind of enjoyment.

I'll hopefully be able to pop in here tonight, but if I'm not able to, well... it'll be because my girlfriend and I are celebrating my birthday.

Peace out, S939ers!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Happy Birthday again man, Have fun and be careful!


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
My lame arse forgot the brackets and I/O. Still looking for that dang I/O plate....









i temporarily installed a zalman cnps7700-cu on there. it uses its own mounting system so the bracket isnt needed.. but temps are gay >=[ so i cant fold T_T

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I just installed my new Thermalright SI-128.

WHAT A NIGHTMARE!

Now that it is in, I am noticing a drop of 8Âº C (just seated) on the Thermalright versus the (well-cured) Zalman CNPS9500 LED. I am going to give it a try for a while, but then will likely be selling the Zalman.

nice temp drop. hope my xp-90 will help a bit on the fx-60 when i get it =/

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Because it's my birthday







, I will take the opportunity to take all the glory for blitz's temperature improvements. You see, I recommended the SI-128 for his rig, and I'm very happy to see that it is performing quite well for him.









Okay... I suppose this is where my "lost weekend" begins.

Be good to each other, people! I'll be in ian's neck of the woods tomorrow, to celebrate my best friend's bachelor party. To be perfectly honest, the whole thing has caused so much personal consternation, but since I have no real choice to do what I want these days, I may as well just bite the bullet and try to have some kind of enjoyment.

I'll hopefully be able to pop in here tonight, but if I'm not able to, well... it'll be because my girlfriend and I are celebrating my birthday.

Peace out, S939ers!









happy bday bro. did he just call me ian again >=[

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Happy Birthday again man, Have fun and be careful!

*nods*


----------



## boonie2

HAPPY BIRTHDAY TOOOOOOOOOO YOOOOOOOooooooooooOOOOOOOOooooo


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Because it's my birthday







, I will take the opportunity to take all the glory for blitz's temperature improvements. You see, I recommended the SI-128 for his rig, and I'm very happy to see that it is performing quite well for him.









Okay... I suppose this is where my "lost weekend" begins.

Be good to each other, people! I'll be in ian's neck of the woods tomorrow, to celebrate my best friend's bachelor party. To be perfectly honest, the whole thing has caused so much personal consternation, but since I have no real choice to do what I want these days, I may as well just bite the bullet and try to have some kind of enjoyment.

I'll hopefully be able to pop in here tonight, but if I'm not able to, well... it'll be because my girlfriend and I are celebrating my birthday.

Peace out, S939ers!










Happy Birthday Joe!!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

to all my peeps, yo!

Thanks for the greeting!


----------



## nategr8ns

Hey happy birthday!
since I don't know you personally, I don't mind asking:

Are you 1?
Are you 2?
Are you 3?
Are you 4?
Are you 5?
thats going to take me forever... you can just skip to the right number if you don't mind telling the world how old you are


----------



## Syrillian

Birthday?

Happy Day!

Happy Birthday!


----------



## froggy1986

Happy Birthday Joe






















Hope you have a good one, and also have fun at your friends party. Don't have so much fun that you forget about us though.


----------



## Oscuro

Hmmm, finally ran 3Dmark06 with the 2600 OC.
Result: 9567
Up from I think 8300 or so....gah, I forgot what it was stock!


----------



## pioneerisloud

HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO YOU....
HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO YOU....
HAPPY BIRTHDAY MR. TXTMSTRJOE.....
HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO YOU!!!!!

And why you going to ian's neck of the woods again? A party? I wanna go!!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Thank y'all again for the warm birthday wishes!







You all have made a good part of my 32nd year very happy. I hope that my 33rd year is at least half as happy as it unfolds starting today!









I'm going to Sin City for my best friend's bachelor party. Oh, and because ian said his birthday present to me was his FX-60; he wants me to play with it.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Thank y'all again for the warm birthday wishes!







You all have made a good part of my 32nd year very happy. I hope that my 33rd year is at least half as happy as it unfolds starting today!









I'm going to Sin City for my best friend's bachelor party. Oh, and because ian said his birthday present to me was his FX-60; he wants me to play with it.










ugh!...I'll be 32 in October....but on Halloween


----------



## iandroo888

really? wanna bring some extra stuff for me? like a fan or three? or some other stuff? haha


----------



## pioneerisloud

Anybody in our wonderful club have a completely spare Socket A board? Mine just fried







.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Anybody in our wonderful club have a completely spare Socket A board? Mine just fried







.


Killer of motherboards!!!!







....hmmm...no I do not have an extra Socket-A motherboard. I think they are ridiculously cheap brand new thou.


----------



## Oscuro

I'm new, haven't collected things....yet.
Sorry, no Socket A here....but happy birthday txtmstrjoe!

Man, you guys make me feel young....24 here.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
really? wanna bring some extra stuff for me? like a fan or three? or some other stuff? haha

Pffft

*Checks ian off of Christmas gift and birthday gift recipient list...

@ Oscuro: Thanks, man! Most appreciate it. And yes, you are young compared to me.

@ Guardian: Hehe, Halloween just got more special!









@ pioneer: Sorry, man. I'd give you a Socket A board if I had one.









@ froggy: Thanks for the birthday greetings!

That goes for everyone!


----------



## froggy1986

Way OT here but for ya'll who don't know.... UPS freaking sux imho. They screwed up bad and sent the wrong package to the wrong addy and completely screwed everything up. Has anyone had this problem?


----------



## nategr8ns

not me personally, but lots of people here complain about it.


----------



## GuardianOdin

UPS has always been good with my stuff...now FedEx lost a $5000 I had coming to me.


----------



## nategr8ns

are you serious?!?
what was in the package? A 500inch TV?!?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
are you serious?!?
what was in the package? A 500inch TV?!?

a check for $5000. It was two weeks late and had a dang tire mark on it.


----------



## nategr8ns

oh, I thought it would be a big package worth $5000








A check is more realistic... That sucks... So how did the tire mark get there?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
oh, I thought it would be a big package worth $5000








A check is more realistic... That sucks... So how did the tire mark get there?









no clue, found it in my mailbox. It was suppose to be signed for.


----------



## Iceman0803

I haven't had any probs with them myself.

Joe, how was your birthday man?


----------



## alexgheseger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


no clue, found it in my mailbox. It was suppose to be signed for.


Yeah, everything from UPS is supposed to be signed for, but i have yet to actually sign ANYTHING from UPS. Otherwise though, they do alright. They're pretty much the only courier that actually does home delivery in my area, so i don't have much of a choice anyway







.


----------



## iandroo888

*sigh* both rigs ( DFI + FX60 & A8R32-MVP + 4200 ) are giving me a head ache..

cable management - things BARELY reaching.. or bundled in an area @[email protected] sucks i dont have extensions either. IDE cables are a PITA (i wish i had more SATA stuff)

setting the rigs up - (DFI + FX60) - put one of my 7600gt's from main rig in here. (so i only have 3 pci-e cards...) installed vista. network drivers not available by DFI for vista. meh. got the yukon one to work. updated the windows update.. downloading updates.. (meanwhile im dling/installing firefox and [email protected] SMP). it freezes. ***? so i restart... POSTs.... says windows was not shut down properly. yadidy yadidy ya.. start normally.. black screen... uhhh........... -.-" wheres the loading? ok so the rig doesnt have a dvd drive so i had to take the one from the other rig out and stick it in here.. (if u are wondering how i installed vista.. the drive was out of the other rig and was attached "externally" just temporarily to install) so booted up vista disc repaired.. and it JUST NOW booted windows and is fine... for now.. man in a way, i dont like this case... psu bottom rear... hd bottom mid/front.. cd drive top front.. from bottom rear to top front is like a 2 1/2' span... uhhh.. >_<

now the other rig.. (A8R32-MVP + 4200+) i moved my server drives over here. and put the 6800 Ultra in here. oh man. small case.. drives facing card... (thats why i love my cm 690 for its hd rack positioning) lets just say.. the rounded ide cable.. molex cable line... pci-e cable.. uhh.. are like in spanning across eachother like a web. yah blitz. u can laugh back at me... lol.. having big cards = fail. having cheap limited space case = fail. sorry pio.. i know all ur cases are aspire >_<) sooo... first few boots... had trouble finding boot drive.. what??? why? so unplugged the "Storage" drives and just booted drive with windows. worked perfectly? huh? *plugs storage drives back* error message in POST says something about SMART failure.. storage and replace or something i dont remember... what??? ***? failure? BS.. they were just working perfectly b4 i switched computers... (to be continued..... working on DFI + FX60 rig)

wahhh... what a PITA :[ this process shoulda been simple!!! :[ pictures of teh horrible cable management to just get the rig running later... >_< man i need longer cables or just new hardware >_>


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


*sigh* both rigs ( DFI + FX60 & A8R32-MVP + 4200 ) are giving me a head ache..

cable management - things BARELY reaching.. or bundled in an area @[email protected] sucks i dont have extensions either. IDE cables are a PITA (i wish i had more SATA stuff)

setting the rigs up - (DFI + FX60) - put one of my 7600gt's from main rig in here. (so i only have 3 pci-e cards...) installed vista. network drivers not available by DFI for vista. meh. got the yukon one to work. updated the windows update.. downloading updates.. (meanwhile im dling/installing firefox and [email protected] SMP). it freezes. ***? so i restart... POSTs.... says windows was not shut down properly. yadidy yadidy ya.. start normally.. black screen... uhhh........... -.-" wheres the loading? ok so the rig doesnt have a dvd drive so i had to take the one from the other rig out and stick it in here.. (if u are wondering how i installed vista.. the drive was out of the other rig and was attached "externally" just temporarily to install) so booted up vista disc repaired.. and it JUST NOW booted windows and is fine... for now.. man in a way, i dont like this case... psu bottom rear... hd bottom mid/front.. cd drive top front.. from bottom rear to top front is like a 2 1/2' span... uhhh.. >_<

now the other rig.. (A8R32-MVP + 4200+) i moved my server drives over here. and put the 6800 Ultra in here. oh man. small case.. drives facing card... (thats why i love my cm 690 for its hd rack positioning) lets just say.. the rounded ide cable.. molex cable line... pci-e cable.. uhh.. are like in spanning across eachother like a web. yah blitz. u can laugh back at me... lol.. having big cards = fail. having cheap limited space case = fail. sorry pio.. i know all ur cases are aspire >_<) sooo... first few boots... had trouble finding boot drive.. what??? why? so unplugged the "Storage" drives and just booted drive with windows. worked perfectly? huh? *plugs storage drives back* error message in POST says something about SMART failure.. storage and replace or something i dont remember... what??? ***? failure? BS.. they were just working perfectly b4 i switched computers... (to be continued..... working on DFI + FX60 rig)

wahhh... what a PITA :[ this process shoulda been simple!!! :[ pictures of teh horrible cable management to just get the rig running later... >_< man i need longer cables or just new hardware >_>










HUH ?







..............


----------



## US13~Doolittle XO

Salute Gentlemen!

I have a homebuilt AMD rig I put together almost three years ago and it's been very, very, good to me! It's an AMD Athlon 64 3200+ Venice core mounted on an Abit UL8 mobo. I have 2 gig of DDR400 RAM and a AGP graphic card in it, a BFG Nvidia 6800 GT OTC.

I play a lot of 1st person shooter games like *Battlefield 2* and *Forgotten Hope 2*, plus I also fly flight sims like Microsoft Flight Simulator 3 and a new WWI mod for CFS3 called *Over Flanders Fields*--a great game! Lately I've been depressed that I didn't really have the money (on a high school teacher's salary) to buy a new gaming computer that was going to really do the trick for me. I then started researching the possibility of upgrading my socket 939 board. It seemed that I could put a really hot *Opteron 185 *processor in that old board for a last hurrah, and revive my AGP graphics with the new Radeon 3850--all for under $500 bucks!!! I have a 10,000 rpm Raptor hard drive lying around that I've never installed and I figured, "Who needs a new $1500 gaming computer when I got the makings of one right here for a third of the price???" ( FYI--I got the 185 on Ebay for $290 including shipping and the Radeon for $165).

The only thing is that I will probably need some help replacing my 3200+ with this new Opteron 185 and I've never overclocked a processor before. I thought I might even want to try overclocking this 3200+ before I took it out--what kind of overclock speed could I get out of it do you think? Also, are there any suggestions on anything else I might need to add to make this refurbished rig really sing--that's not too expensive of course?

So, let me hear from you guys! I have a week or so before my Opteron shows up on my doorstep! I appreciate all your advice, help, and suggestions!

Kind Regards,

US13~Doolittle, XO









PS: Oh! If anyone wants my 3200+ or 6800 OTC on the cheap just let me know!


----------



## nategr8ns

welcome!
there's no telling what kind of clocks you can get. Its all just experimenting.
I would read some guides on here. You need to be in BIOS a lot, and mainly you need temperature monitoring and stress-testing programs (I personally use CoreTemp and GO ORTHOS).
BTW, click on the User CP link at the top of the screen, and then go to "add/edit system" and fill in your specs!


----------



## iandroo888

aww man. it was that darn rounded cable that came with the DFI board that gave those two drives problems.. used a different cable and works.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *US13~Doolittle, XO*


Salute Gentlemen!

I have a homebuilt AMD rig I put together almost three years ago and it's been very, very, good to me! It's an AMD Athlon 64 3200+ Venice core mounted on an Abit UL8 mobo. I have 2 gig of DDR400 RAM and a AGP graphic card in it, a BFG Nvidia 6800 GT OTC.

I play a lot of 1st person shooter games like *Battlefield 2* and *Forgotten Hope 2*, plus I also fly flight sims like Microsoft Flight Simulator 3 and a new WWI mod for CFS3 called *Over Flanders Fields*--a great game! Lately I've been depressed that I didn't really have the money (on a high school teacher's salary) to buy a new gaming computer that was going to really do the trick for me. I then started researching the possibility of upgrading my socket 939 board. It seemed that I could put a really hot *Opteron 185 *processor in that old board for a last hurrah, and revive my AGP graphics with the new Radeon 3850--all for under $500 bucks!!! I have a 10,000 rpm Raptor hard drive lying around that I've never installed and I figured, "Who needs a new $1500 gaming computer when I got the makings of one right here for a third of the price???" ( FYI--I got the 185 on Ebay for $290 including shipping and the Radeon for $165).

The only thing is that I will probably need some help replacing my 3200+ with this new Opteron 185 and I've never overclocked a processor before. I thought I might even want to try overclocking this 3200+ before I took it out--what kind of overclock speed could I get out of it do you think? Also, are there any suggestions on anything else I might need to add to make this refurbished rig really sing--that's not too expensive of course?

So, let me hear from you guys! I have a week or so before my Opteron shows up on my doorstep! I appreciate all your advice, help, and suggestions!

Kind Regards,

US13~Doolittle, XO









PS: Oh! If anyone wants my 3200+ or 6800 OTC on the cheap just let me know!










WELCOME TO THE DARK SIDE DOOLITTLE







seriously , theres alot of really good advice being given out here , go to user cp and edit your system specs. sit back and hold on


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *US13~Doolittle, XO* 
Salute Gentlemen!

I have a homebuilt AMD rig I put together almost three years ago and it's been very, very, good to me! It's an AMD Athlon 64 3200+ Venice core mounted on an Abit UL8 mobo. I have 2 gig of DDR400 RAM and a AGP graphic card in it, a BFG Nvidia 6800 GT OTC.

I play a lot of 1st person shooter games like *Battlefield 2* and *Forgotten Hope 2*, plus I also fly flight sims like Microsoft Flight Simulator 3 and a new WWI mod for CFS3 called *Over Flanders Fields*--a great game! Lately I've been depressed that I didn't really have the money (on a high school teacher's salary) to buy a new gaming computer that was going to really do the trick for me. I then started researching the possibility of upgrading my socket 939 board. It seemed that I could put a really hot *Opteron 185* processor in that old board for a last hurrah, and revive my AGP graphics with the new Radeon 3850--all for under $500 bucks!!! I have a 10,000 rpm Raptor hard drive lying around that I've never installed and I figured, "Who needs a new $1500 gaming computer when I got the makings of one right here for a third of the price???" ( FYI--I got the 185 on Ebay for $290 including shipping and the Radeon for $165).

The only thing is that I will probably need some help replacing my 3200+ with this new Opteron 185 and I've never overclocked a processor before. I thought I might even want to try overclocking this 3200+ before I took it out--what kind of overclock speed could I get out of it do you think? Also, are there any suggestions on anything else I might need to add to make this refurbished rig really sing--that's not too expensive of course?

So, let me hear from you guys! I have a week or so before my Opteron shows up on my doorstep! I appreciate all your advice, help, and suggestions!

Kind Regards,

US13~Doolittle, XO









PS: Oh! If anyone wants my 3200+ or 6800 OTC on the cheap just let me know!

Congratulations! These Opteron chips are usually pretty good about their overclocking...so you should have a fun time.

However, it seems you MAY have an NForce 3 motherboard







. I hope you don't plan on doing Vista. NF3 motherboard + dual core + ATI video card = no Vista. Ask Blitz about that one







. But you may be in luck still...you may have the lucky oddball board...who knows?

I would like to make note that I'd love to get ahold of your 3200+ and 6800 card. Its a matter of if I have the money available







. I still owe Mr. txtmstrjoe....I haven't forgotten







.

But yeah, I think you should have a great time here! I hope you enjoy your stay.

And I would also like to second you putting your machine into the User Control Panel. Makes it MUCH MUCH easier for us to help you out







.


----------



## iandroo888

i wanted that 6800 but its agp... :[


----------



## pioneerisloud

Alright, I'm attempting to hit 2.4Ghz or 2.5GHz with my Manny. I can do the following configurations, please pick two and tell me which two (one 2.4GHz, one 2.5GHz)...and I will try them out. I'm unsure which is better since I've been stuck on a 9x multiplier for so long.

*2.40GHz runs:*
240 x 10 = 2400MHz (2.40GHz), RAM @ 200MHz (4 sticks of 512) 166 divider
300 x 08 = 2400MHz (2.40GHz), RAM @ 200MHz (4 sticks of 512) 133 divider

*2.50GHz runs:*
250 x 10 = 2500MHz (2.50GHz), RAM @ 208MHz (4 sticks of 512) 166 divider
312 x 08 = 2496MHz (2.49GHz), RAM @ 208MHz (4 sticks of 512) 133 divider

2.40GHz requires roughly 1.35 - 1.375v to run stable (so far).
2.50GHz requires roughly 1.40 - 1.425v to run stable (so far).
AND.....This rig is on a stock Opteron heatpipe cooler.

So can anybody shed some light as to which would be the best idea for me to go with? I really don't have the time to mess with trying each out myself. I know these 4 options are available to me, and SHOULD be able to work out stable. I just need to know, higher FSB with lower multi and RAM divider.....OR lower FSB with higher multi and RAM divder? 2.4GHz with lower volts, or 2.5GHz with higher volts, but risk overheating?


----------



## GuardianOdin

250 x 10 = 2500MHz (2.50GHz), RAM @ 208MHz (4 sticks of 512) 166 divider

That should still be good considering your under the 1.5Volts.

Edit: I think I'm going to build a folding rig. The GF broke up with me,so I figure I won't let the extra parts go to waste.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Mates I really need some help here or I'm going nuts. I just applied the Ultra 120 extreme on my mobo and the stange thing that happens is that the pc won't post when placed at it's normal (vertical position). It only posts and boots into windows when in horizontal position. I've holded the heatshink with my hand, while in vertical position case, it doesn't move (I'd say it's a matter of μm) and it posts. So it's the heatshink's weight that causes this, but what is it??? Have I injured my mobo??


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
Mates I really need some help here or I'm going nuts. I just applied the Ultra 120 extreme on my mobo and the stange thing that happens is that the pc won't post when placed at it's normal (vertical position). It only posts and boots into windows when in horizontal position. I've holded the heatshink with my hand, while in vertical position case, it doesn't move (I'd say it's a matter of μm) and it posts. So it's the heatshink's weight that causes this, but what is it??? Have I injured my mobo??























Not sure what could be causing that,but make sure there are no bent pins on the CPU. Also make sure the Motherboard is not touching any metal on the case,it could be grounding it's self out went you turn the heatsink.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Thanks for the quick reply. I'm sure there are no bent pins on the cpu and that the mobo isn't grounding. I think I'm gonna remove the heatshink and reseat it. Any other suggestions?? Thanks!


----------



## nategr8ns

I would try taking the motherboard off of the metal mobo tray and maybe screwing it into a piece of wood, in the vertical position, just to rule out grounding.
You live in Greece, cool!


----------



## MikeV_E36

After about 30 mins of horizontal positioning the system hang (not a BSOD), and wouldn't post like when in vertical. I removed the new heatshink and placed the stock one to see what happens. It works like it should in vertical position. I might wait some minutes to see if it also hangs.

@nategr8ns
That would be a nice idea but too much headache to find a piece of wood, drill it and mount the mobo so it can be vertically positioned!


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


After about 30 mins of horizontal positioning the system hang (not a BSOD), and wouldn't post like when in vertical. I removed the new heatshink and placed the stock one to see what happens. It works like it should in vertical position. I might wait some minutes to see if it also hangs.

@nategr8ns
That would be a nice idea but too much headache to find a piece of wood, drill it and mount the mobo so it can be vertically positioned!


Try lapping it , then reseat it , what temps are you getting? , try using "coretemp" . might be a temp issue might not . heard of afew problems with the base of there not being compleatly flat in reviews .. then again how many are ?


----------



## MikeV_E36

The temps I got are very good I think, 28c and 32c when idle for the cores. The mobo is heating though.. It hits 45c on idle (as txtmstrjoe has said before, the mosfet are getting really hot with the tower heatshink!).


----------



## MikeV_E36

I got the thermalright reseated and guess what.. Now it works







Till now I thought only womens' soul were an abyss, now I think of that for the computers' souls also







. Off to overclockin tests now!


----------



## iandroo888

oOo 4200+ and a8n32-sli. lookin forward to your progress..

wait.. Oooo 7600gt.. almost sounds like my old rig


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
I got the thermalright reseated and guess what.. Now it works







Till now I thought only womens' soul were an abyss, now I think of that for the computers' souls also







. Off to overclockin tests now!









figures huh ? lol ok , put the fire extinguisher on the desk , crank up the voltage , and go for it


----------



## Blitz6804

Just a heads up:

Newegg has Mushkin Redline (2x1024) DDR500 on sale. It is $173 shipped with a $40 mail-in-rebate. I just ordered myself 4 GB; I am hoping for better latencies or at least lower voltages.

In other news, I am right now installing Crysis.


----------



## iandroo888

126.99 + 5.99 S/H After MIR. Great Deal!


----------



## MikeV_E36

@iandroo888
It's not a 7600gt anymore







Just replaced it with a 8800gts 512

Ok right now i'm running 244x11=2684mhz, Ram is CPU/14=191mhz, and HTT 244x4=976mhz. Temps are pretty nice, 26 & 33 for the cores and 36 for the mobo but Qfan is disabled







. Ah the cpu voltage is @ 1.3750v . With fsb 245mhz I get BSODs even with [email protected] 1.3850v . Any suggestions? Should I mess with any other voltage? Sorry for asking repeatedly, I'm still in training hehheheh


----------



## Blitz6804

Unless I am mistaken, your 4200 is a Manchester? Try upping the VCore to 1.400 V. Mannies need a little more juice than Toledos to do the same lifting.

What does the BSOD say? Do you remember? If it says "IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL," upping the VCore will almost certainly fix it.

(And your sig-rig is now out of date I suppose because of new VPU)


----------



## MikeV_E36

Thanks sub-zero







Yeah it's a Manchester, so up to 1.4v immediately! Unfortunately I can't read what the BSOD says cause it's rebooting too fast, I can't even hit the pause button to catch it. I'll update my system info as soon as tuning is complete


----------



## Surefire

Hey everyone,i know this might not be the right place to submit this but i thought with all the knowledge in this thread it might be a good place. I got a strange problem. I have a DFI lanparty NF4 Ultra-D motherboard with an Opteron 165. I had this combo for bout 2 yrs now. I havnt used it in bout 6months. But now i am setting it up to use for folding and storage. My problem is that i am trying to change my voltages for the CPU and the Memory. But niether will change. In my bios i can change the CPU VID Startup value, and the CPU VID control to whatever i like but it wont change in the bios or when i run Cpuid. The memory wont change voltage either. It is stuck at 2.53 Volts in the bios info. I have even try changing it to 2.9 V's and when i reboot it stays at 2.53. I had this motherboard overclocked since i had it and no probs. Now that i took it out of storage i am geting this problem. I thought that it might be my cmos battery but that measures at 3.02 volts. Also all of my memory timings and my other settings will stay, but not the 2 voltages. Jumpers are all where they are supposed to be too. Any help would be great. Thank you much for your time.


----------



## Blitz6804

Try the following MikeV_E36:

1) Right-click "My Computer" and click "Properties"
2) Click the "Advanced" tab
3) Under "Startup and Recovery," click "Settings"
4) Uncheck "Automatically restart" under "System failure"
5) Hit "Okay"
6) Hit "Okay"
7) (A system reboot should not be necessary, but may be)
8) Next time it crashes, read the Blue Screen

Hope it helps!

Surefire: Try doing a CMOS dump, and then attempt the volting.


----------



## Surefire

Thank you for the info blitz. I tried that a few times already and both voltages still wont budge. I also just tried to change the LDT voltage and that wont move either. I just dont understand how the cmos remembers all my clock settings and latencies on the memory but the voltages wont move.


----------



## Blitz6804

If you dumped the CMOS, it should drop everything back to stock.

If it did not, unplug the power supply, remove the battery, and short the jumper for at least 5 seconds. Alternatively, pull the battery and plug as before, but leave the system alone at least 12 hours. Either way should give the CMOS a good clear.


----------



## Skullzaflare

since this is 939 club, anyone got any spare 939 parts? i need a mobo and cpu








help me join the club


----------



## Blitz6804

I have an Athlon64 3700+ Venice PIB with Stock cooler as well as a Zalman CNPS9500LED if stock does not fit your fancy. As to Motherboards, I have no Skt939 spares. I have an SktA spare MoBo/CPU, but that does not help.


----------



## nategr8ns

I have an Athlon64 3800+, not sure what core, with stock cooler, which turned out to not be the cause of my computer troubles (it turned out to be my motherboard).


----------



## Surefire

Ya blitz, i dumped my cmos and everything does reset to stock. I can change all my memory timings and all other options, but the voltages will not change. I will try what you said about taking the battery out and letting it sit over nite and see if that helps. Just cant see how the voltages wont change. The worst part is with the low voltage that the memory is at, i cant even use the PC, it shuts down with only 2.53 goin towards the memory.


----------



## Blitz6804

2.50 V is the JEDEC standard for DDR400. Try setting everything full-stock (timings and voltings) and booting to Windows. Then restart the PC and see if you can adjust voltages.


----------



## iandroo888

awww i hate u :[ wait are those load temps or idle? better be idle or imma kill yooh









are you just oc'ing and see if u boot into windows? not posting anything about stability by stress or anything


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Skullzaflare*


since this is 939 club, anyone got any spare 939 parts? i need a mobo and cpu








help me join the club


I have a brand new / never used A8V-E-SE board.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Yeah first I wanted to figure out up to which setting it can boot into winxp. It was 2.71Ghz but Orthos just ran for about 15sec till it froze. So I rolled back to 2.650Ghz (241x11) which seems stable now. All the values of fsb between 242 and 246 caused freezing with orthos







. The voltage is 1.4v and the ram @ 190mhz. Of course the temps are @idle hehehe. I think I'll leave it all night at this setting running Orthos and see how it goes. I hope it won't freeze. If you come up any idea regarding my raising the cpu speed hit me! 2.650ghz is just not enough







Goodnight people!


----------



## Blitz6804

Sure do: test for an FSB hole!

Some motherboards have a hole in which they cannot be stable. If unstable between 242 and 246, try 247+. If anyone else here has an A8N32-SLI DLX (I know there are), they can post their holes.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Forgot to post the screenshot! I didn't know about that "hole" thing, so I'll keep on pushin' the fsb tomorrow! Thanks again


----------



## Surefire

Blitz i took out my cmos battery, reset the bios, and left it unpluged for 2 hours now. I turned it back on, let it go into windows. I then restarted it went into the bios and made the changes. When i let windows load up and checked cpuid, the cpu volts did not change again. I then restarted it and looked in the bios and it still will not change voltage for anything. CPU, memory, and ldt volts. Rats this sucks.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Oscuro* 
Hmmm, finally ran 3Dmark06 with the 2600 OC.
Result: 9567
Up from I think 8300 or so....gah, I forgot what it was stock!

Oscuro, what PCI-E slot is your 8800GTX in?


----------



## iandroo888

my hole was like 260 - 270s or something.

my stable oc for the 4200 was 240 x 11 (2640Mhz).


----------



## Blitz6804

Anyone with a DFI Lanparty Ultra-D able to help Surefire out?

Wow... 3000 posts.

*Parties*

6,390 posts to go!


----------



## iandroo888

i just got a dfi lanparty ultra-d.. (thx gaurdianodin again) havent played with it tho. spring/summer las vegas weather = fail for oc lol. i had to downclock my opty. to keep it in decent range (high 40s to mid 50s)..


----------



## Brandon1337

Amd Athlon 64 4000+ @ 2.81 right now.


----------



## Blitz6804

All we need Brandon1337 is a CPU-Z Validation link or a screen shot of CPU-Z running on your computer and you are in.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Brandon1337*


Amd Athlon 64 4000+ @ 2.81 right now.


Had the same board and processor as you have , it"ll do 3.0







{thought i was the only person on the planet still running a 4000+}







g/L


----------



## Blitz6804

Remember, as Joe is fond of saying:

"Your mileage will vary!"

Even if he has the same CPU, same bin, and same date of manufacture on the motherboard built with a serial code one different from you, he may not reach the three gig mark. There are tons of factors that could be different between your systems including power supplies, ventilation, and RAM; any of which could adjust the max clock.


----------



## boonie2

Shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh







just giving him a moral boost , we need another 3.0 4000 in our roster lol { but your absolutely right}


----------



## Blitz6804

I am very unhappy with the temps I am getting with my SI-128. I could not use the bolt-down bracket I bought because it did not work with my retention bracket/backplate and so was using the stock S-clip.

I just ordered a new backplate.

Unfortunately, that means I will need to take the motherboard out; AGAIN. Why did I not think of it when I ordered the bracket and saved the shipping.


----------



## iandroo888

is the S bracket for thermalright a bolt down or clip? i wanna use a bolt down on my hyper tx2 cuz im thinkin of the clamp down thing is not hold it down so well. it has about the same design as the thermalright towers so thought i could maybe use it..


----------



## Oscuro

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Oscuro, what PCI-E slot is your 8800GTX in?


Slot 1, or the highest slot on the board.

Also found that my second Delta isn't running for some reason, and my idle temps are hitting 30s?! Need to figure that out tomorrow.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


Forgot to post the screenshot! I didn't know about that "hole" thing, so I'll keep on pushin' the fsb tomorrow! Thanks again










Just figured I'd point this out.....
Seems you're running a dreaded Manchester chip







. They typically *TOP OUT* around 2.60 - 2.70GHz. So you're actually quite lucky to even get it as high as you have. I'm surprised nobody else has said anything. I have seen ONE....count it, ONE...Manchester that passes 2.70GHz stable, he was at 2.96GHz or so and running 1.70v through it...with massive cooling (forgot what it was though).

So yeah, I'd say you're lucky to be able to do roughly 240FSB x 11. You can try to push it higher of course and prove me wrong







. However the odds are against you.

On a side note....
My own personal Manchester CPU hits 2.60GHz MAXIMUM (X2 3800+) with 1.55v running through her. 2.50GHz requires 1.42v. And it goes lower and lower. So these chips really are voltage hungry for the higher clocks, and they usually top out fairly low.

But if you got a golden chip....go for it







.


----------



## Skullzaflare

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Just figured I'd point this out.....
Seems you're running a dreaded Manchester chip







. They typically *TOP OUT* around 2.60 - 2.70GHz. So you're actually quite lucky to even get it as high as you have. I'm surprised nobody else has said anything. I have seen ONE....count it, ONE...Manchester that passes 2.70GHz stable, he was at 2.96GHz or so and running 1.70v through it...with massive cooling (forgot what it was though).

So yeah, I'd say you're lucky to be able to do roughly 240FSB x 11. You can try to push it higher of course and prove me wrong







. However the odds are against you.

On a side note....
My own personal Manchester CPU hits 2.60GHz MAXIMUM (X2 3800+) with 1.55v running through her. 2.50GHz requires 1.42v. And it goes lower and lower. So these chips really are voltage hungry for the higher clocks, and they usually top out fairly low.

But if you got a golden chip....go for it







.


really? i must find my cpuz then lol, my old x2 3800 manchester was stable 2.9?ghz 1.5v


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Skullzaflare*


really? i must find my cpuz then lol, my old x2 3800 manchester was stable 2.9?ghz 1.5v


I know...your the lucky one I was referring to, lol.


----------



## Skullzaflare

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I know...your the lucky one I was referring to, lol.


oh, lol

wow, ive been referred to quite a few times in the forum







, i feel special


----------



## iandroo888

haha.. starholdest had a 4600+ that got to like 2.8 or so stable. i only got to 2.64 on 4200+.. and 2.58 for 4600+... >.<


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
*2.50 V is the JEDEC standard for DDR400*. Try setting everything full-stock (timings and voltings) and booting to Windows. Then restart the PC and see if you can adjust voltages.

Not necessarily the case; I believe VCore recommendations are not set forth by JEDEC, but are entirely dependent on the needs of the particular RAM ICs.

Just a clarification here, is all.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Sure do: test for an FSB hole!

Some motherboards have a hole in which they cannot be stable. If unstable between 242 and 246, try 247+. If anyone else here has an A8N32-SLI DLX (I know there are), they can post their holes.

"'FSB' Hole" for mine is anything between 313MHz and 347MHz. Anything below and above that, my board runs fine up to around 365-368MHz.

Thanks again to everyone who wished me a happy birthday. I had a great time this weekend; spent all of yesterday in Las Vegas. ian did a great job of hiding from me, but I spent yesterday with my best friend and a couple of other awesome buddies.

Good to see the club has been active.

To those who want to join our Club, as blitz and others have very kindly pointed out, just post a CPU-Z validation link in this thread or PM the same to either me, thlnk3r, or pioneerisloud; once you've done that, we'll add you to our roster.









Great job, everyone!









BTW: To people expecting stuff from me (except for boonie): Your stuff is going out tomorrow. Sorry they haven't gone out yet, but I'd been out of town as you know.







Thanks for your patience. boonie, you should have your swag already (or it ought to be there very soon).


----------



## RyanRacer48

I'll go ahead and drop some props to the 939 line . I ran a Toledo core 4400+ x2 stock at 2.2 all the way up the FX 60. Also being the same core, i got a fx 60 for almost nothing







Matched up with some corsair 2 latency corsair memory ( i do miss the 2 latency thing ). 7900gtx was the highest graphics card it saw, but WOW that was a power house system for at least 2 year cough 1 year(s).


----------



## MikeV_E36

241x11 froze with Orthos also, so I stay @ 240x11=2640ghz at the roster, which is stable with orthos







. It seems I seriously need an opty here heheh. At least rolling back too 240fsb got me able to raise memory at cpu/12 which is 220mhz now.. Command rate is 2T, what does that mean? Should I switch to 1T or leave it like this?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Oscuro*


Slot 1, or the highest slot on the board.


Oscuro, interesting. That score doesn't seem normal for a 8800GTX. PCI-E 1 is the right slot. I was curious because PCI-E 4 runs at 2x bandwidth as oppose to the 16x bandwidth on PCI-E 1. I thought maybe that was effecting your score...


----------



## iandroo888

if i remember correctly, i had my memory at 240x11 with timings at like 2.5-3-3-6 @ 1T. Dunoe what twinmos is but maybe u can try tighting timings on the memory a little. first thing to try with stock timings is changing the latency to 1T


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


if i remember correctly, i had my memory at 240x11 with timings at like 2.5-3-3-6 @ 1T.


Iandroo, you had your memory at "240x11"? Are you sure your not referring to HTT * cpu multiplier


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


241x11 froze with Orthos also, so I stay @ 240x11=2640ghz at the roster, which is stable with orthos







. It seems I seriously need an opty here heheh. At least rolling back too 240fsb got me able to raise memory at cpu/12 which is 220mhz now.. Command rate is 2T, what does that mean? Should I switch to 1T or leave it like this?


Command rate plays a massive role on both stability and bandwidth. The 1T will have a much higher bandwidth, but is much less likely to be stable. If you can run the RAM at 1T, that is great. If not, do not worry about it.

In other news:

I just got off the phone with Corsair, who is refunding me the TWINX2048-3200C2PRO which cost me $232 new for the two gigabytes. It was, at the time, the fastest DDR RAM available.

For $266, I just ordered two, 2x1024 DDR 500 (PC 4000) muskin Redline RAM kits. $34 to upgrade 2 GB of DDR 400 to 4 GB of DDR 500; how could I go wrong?

As to what I am doing about the TWINX2048-3200C2PT, I do not yet know what is happening with it. As I said, my sister's P4 has 2x512 of Kingston HyperX DDR 434 and 2x512 of generic value stuff. No idea on the brand. My parents may demand that she get the Corsair to go with the HyperX and they will give me the value RAM (for my mothballed Skt A rig). If not, I will be putting the TWINX2048-3200C2PT up for sale. For its entire two-month life, it has ran at DDR 393 @ 2-3-3-6-2T-10-12, 2.78 V. That is a 0.03 V overvolt, a 7 MHz underclock, stock timings/sub-timings.


----------



## -iceblade^

Does the 939 chip have to be your current chip and in your sig rig to join???

also, is it a good idea for me to run an 8800GT on a stock 3400+?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *-iceblade^*


Does the 939 chip have to be your current chip and in your sig rig to join???

also, is it a good idea for me to run an 8800GT on a stock 3400+?


Iceblade, no you don't have to run a S939 in your sig rig to join. As long as you own a S939 setup and post a CPU-Z validation screenshot then your good to go









I would imagine a 8800GT on a stock 3400+ would "run ok" but you'd see more performance if you were to overclock the 3400+. Going from a E2160 coupled with a 8800GT to a 3400+ might bring disappointing results in terms of game benchmarks ect

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

No, and yes!

We welcome all Skt 939 users, even those who no longer have a 939 Rig at all; the "nostalic" section is for that purpose.

If you loved Skt 939 enough to still have one, you are in good company with us, just hook us up with a CPU-Z validation link or a screen shot of the same.

As to the video card, forget this "bottle neck" garbage. I have an AGP 3850 on mine.

Addendum: I just got the green-light to sell the 3200C2PTs. I know froggy could use some new RAM, so I await hearing from her before it goes out for open market.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


As to the video card, forget this "bottle neck" garbage. I have an AGP 3850 on mine.


Blitz, here is a good explanation about all that: http://www.overclock.net/graphics-ca...rned-stop.html


----------



## -iceblade^

cool







. thanks for the answers + welcomes... Give me till thursday or friday when i can post the validation and screenie...

and yes, i love S939 one heck of a lot...


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ihatethedukes*


Your computer playing a video game is the same way. If your CPU is markedly slower than your GPU, it will bottleneck it down to the maximum speed that your CPU can render AI/physics/etc. It doesn't matter if your GPU can output 1000FPS your CPU can only execute 100FPS worth of instructions, so your GPU will be waiting around for your CPU to finish his job (the equivalent to a truck coming in) and then the GPU will quickly process the graphical data needed and will wait around for another batch (truck) to come in.

The same goes in the opposite direction, a GPU only able to put out 100FPS and a CPU that can output 1000FPS will still only output 100FPS for the same reasons.

Something most people don't take into account is that MOST LCD MONITORS ONLY PUT OUT 60Hz or 60FPS. Therefore even if your CPU *AND* GPU can output 1000FPS your monitor will only show 60FPS. That is the biggest bottleneck in MOST high end machines with less than enormous monitors.

To FURTHER muck things up, the eye cannot tell the difference past 75FPS as an organ and cannot distinguish between 14 individual images per second and and real motion. As far as rendered images go, the lowest playable FPS is ABOUT 30-40 FPS for various reasons that I don't feel the need to go over, simply knowing that 30-40 FPS are what we need for fluid game play is enough. So, if you get 10000 frames flashed at you in a second you will see the same thing as if you saw 40 frames flashed in the same amount of time of the same video as before. I will mercifully IGNORE this problem and focus only on the bottlenecks on the hardware level.

As stated before, the general rule FOR ALL LCD MONITORS is that on its max resolution, a monitor will only be able to output 60FPS. For the sake of this argument, lets assume that 60Hz is the max FPS a monitor can put out across it's entire resolution range since we're assuming that the monitor you own has the max resolution you're going to use. This is a HUGE and completely immovable bottleneck to the system. 60FPS.


Finally! A good chance to argue!
Its true about the monitor being the bottleneck, but...
Hz do not equal FPS. A Hertz is either 1/2 FPS or 2 FPS, I don't remember which.
The human eye can see over 225FPS, this was the fastest that the US military tested, but humans were able to notice things hidden in 1 frame at 225FPS in a video.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Finally! A good chance to argue!
Its true about the monitor being the bottleneck, but...
Hz do not equal FPS. A Hertz is either 1/2 FPS or 2 FPS, I don't remember which.
The human eye can see over 225FPS, this was the fastest that the US military tested, but humans were able to notice things hidden in 1 frame at 225FPS in a video.


Nate, I honestly can't tell a difference above 30FPS but that's just me


----------



## Blitz6804

On a progressive image, FPS = Hz.

On an interlaced image, FPS = Hz/2.

Thus, on an NTSC 1080i TV, you have 60 Hz, 30 FPS. On an NTSC 1080p TV, you have 60 Hz, 60 FPS.

On a PAL 1080i TV, you have 50 Hz, 25 FPS. On a PAL 1080p TV, you have 50 Hz, 50 FPS.

The human eye can be readily enough fooled into believing that 25 FPS is fluid, at least, when it comes to watching TV. If you watch a cut scene at 25 FPS, you will be fine. Watch it anything lower, and it will look jerky. Some people need to have at least 30 FPS. These people will see pictures on UK or German television (for example) as "strobing" or "jerky."


----------



## -iceblade^

60+ adn it gets wasted on me...


----------



## mithrandir

Long live skt 939!

My two rigs are still skt 939, single core at that.
Both overclocked









rig 1 - 3700+ OC'd to 2.78ghz. Ram is on divider though running @ DDR333







1T
rig 2 - Opty 146 OC'd to 2.75 ghz. Ram is also on divider running @ DDR386







2T

Gave my brother my first skt 939, a winnie 3200 (non OC'd)

I also have another Opty 146 although not installed yet








Will be after a nice dual core if I can get one cheap


----------



## Blitz6804

Alright, UPS just showed up. I bounced back the RAM to Corsair.

For those who forgot, Corsair said they would refund me or replace the RAM. I asked for a refund, and they shipped RAM anyway. I was told (when I called today) to refuse shipment, and a check will be here 10-15 business days.


----------



## Skullzaflare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
On a progressive image, FPS = Hz.

On an interlaced image, FPS = Hz/2.

Thus, on an NTSC 1080i TV, you have 60 Hz, 30 FPS. On an NTSC 1080p TV, you have 60 Hz, 60 FPS.

On a PAL 1080i TV, you have 50 Hz, 25 FPS. On a PAL 1080p TV, you have 50 Hz, 50 FPS.

The human eye can be readily enough fooled into believing that 25 FPS is fluid, at least, when it comes to watching TV. If you watch a cut scene at 25 FPS, you will be fine. Watch it anything lower, and it will look jerky. Some people need to have at least 30 FPS. These people will see pictures on UK or German television (for example) as "strobing" or "jerky."

anything under 40fps is jerky to me


----------



## iandroo888

yeah long live 939 and AMD









- AMD Athlon 64 X2 4200+ & Asus A8R32-MVP Deluxe
- AMD Athlon 64 FX-60 & DFI LanPartyUT nF4 Ultra-D
- AMD Athlon 64 Opteron 165 & Asus A8N32-SLi Deluxe
- AMD Athlon 64 X2 5200+ & GigaByte GA-MA69GM-S2H


----------



## Blitz6804

Your roster info is out of date iandroo888. We need some new links!

You have:
4600+ @ 2580 on a A8N32-SLI-Deluxe,
4200+ @ 2640 on a A8N32-SLI-Deluxe,
165 @ 2943 on a A8N32-SLI-Deluxe, and
FX-60 @ 2940 on a A8R32-MVP Deluxe

The Brisbane is missing for one, and the MoBos are wrong on some others; you should have the roster updated to show your rigs as they now are, with the exception of your retired Toledo, which would be left as-is.


----------



## StormX2

i like my 939 machiens n all

but im starting to feel limited =(

im such a random use computer junky, i go from Gameing, to even more gameing, throw in the random Video encoding and severe multi tasking. Phto editing is also fun to play with, but i just need more SPEED and the ability to do MOAR FASTER!!!!


----------



## nategr8ns

get a dual socket s940 board








and 2 opterons (not sure what 940 processors there are)
and some memz0ry
and you're good to go









its basically 939 with an extra pin, and the ability to dual socketize


----------



## rottenotto

I just PM'd KillaConcept and put in a bid on his DFI Ultra-D board. I have a 3700+ ( KACAE) sitting on the shelf over there, and some GSKILL PC4000 , and I've dreamed of having this board ( it's modded for SLI ). Might be looking for some guidance from some of you DFI owners shortly.................


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rottenotto* 
I just PM'd KillaConcept and put in a bid on his DFI Ultra-D board. I have a 3700+ ( KACAE) sitting on the shelf over there, and some GSKILL PC4000 , and I've dreamed of having this board ( it's modded for SLI ). Might be looking for some guidance from some of you DFI owners shortly.................

Rotten, sounds good man. A few of us own DFI boards...get ready for a lot of options in the BIOS


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Rotten, sounds good man. A few of us own DFI boards...get ready for a lot of options in the BIOS









lol so true


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


On a progressive image, FPS = Hz.

On an interlaced image, FPS = Hz/2.

Thus, on an NTSC 1080i TV, you have 60 Hz, 30 FPS. On an NTSC 1080p TV, you have 60 Hz, 60 FPS.

On a PAL 1080i TV, you have 50 Hz, 25 FPS. On a PAL 1080p TV, you have 50 Hz, 50 FPS.

The human eye can be readily enough fooled into believing that 25 FPS is fluid, at least, when it comes to watching TV. If you watch a cut scene at 25 FPS, you will be fine. Watch it anything lower, and it will look jerky. Some people need to have at least 30 FPS. These people will see pictures on UK or German television (for example) as "strobing" or "jerky."


oh I get it now... OK so I was only right for part of the Hz/FPS thing.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Nate, I honestly can't tell a difference above 30FPS but that's just me










I can, but its so miniscule. Anything upwards of 50FPS in games is good for me, and TV and movies 30FPS is fine.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Alright, UPS just showed up. I bounced back the RAM to Corsair.

For those who forgot, Corsair said they would refund me or replace the RAM. I asked for a refund, and they shipped RAM anyway. I was told (when I called today) to refuse shipment, and a check will be here 10-15 business days.


Check for the full ~$200? Sweet! And ram prices have dropped recently, so


----------



## Blitz6804

He said they would be drafting a check for the full $2*32*. I guess I will see if he was lying to me or being honest when it comes in the mail.


----------



## nategr8ns

thats a very large amount of money for ram!
in todays market of course.
So what are you going to do with it?!?


----------



## Blitz6804

Do with what? The money coming back to me? I already ordered 4 GB of Mushkin Redline DDR 500. If you mean the TWINX2048-3200C2PT, I am holding the offer open to Froggy1986 first, and if she does not want them, will be opening it up to anyone who has value RAM in their main rig.


----------



## Oscuro

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Oscuro, interesting. That score doesn't seem normal for a 8800GTX. PCI-E 1 is the right slot. I was curious because PCI-E 4 runs at 4x bandwidth as oppose to the 16x bandwidth on PCI-E 1. I thought maybe that was effecting your score...


Last I checked, the slot should be running at 16x. I'll figure it out later.
I did find out why my second delta wasn't running...the fan extension/adapter seems to have a loose connection in the wiring I believe, in such that it can, if moved, randomly lose power to the fan. Luckily not a catastrophic problem (2x Deltas for Performance....and redundancy!), but I think I am going to have to find a way to make this Noctua a bolt-thru. One Delta weighs a fair chunk more than the stock Noctua fan, and I have a pair of the damned things!
Then again, you'd think it'd be fine since this is pretty much the exact same mounting system Noctua uses for the NH-U12F which is the 120mm version.

Either way...I give you pictures! Heh, how you bastardize a Noctua with some good old brute flow!









A bit blurrier than I like, but this isn't a competition or review or anything...But the front of the Stacker (needs a fan right under the DVD drive...)


----------



## Blitz6804

The easiest way to mount a 120mm fan in the front of that:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835185020

I recommend also buying a high-CFM fan for that. The one that comes with it is worthless. Perhaps 220 CFM would fit your needs:

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/de12gf.html


----------



## Oscuro

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


The easiest way to mount a 120mm fan in the front of that:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835185020

I recommend also buying a high-CFM fan for that. The one that comes with it is worthless. Perhaps 220 CFM would fit your needs:

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/de12gf.html


....
You're trying to make my ears bleed aren't you?







Oh, and I don't have anything that could control that damned thing. Scythe Kaze Master only supports upt to 13 watts per channel.

I do work in a factory that makes fireplaces...I was thinking of asking the old guy who does the CAD programs to make up a quick program for the laser to cut out of 18ga. sheet steel. And ask one of the brake press guys to bend it for me...
But the old guys doesn't seem to like me at all. Bloody hell.


----------



## Blitz6804

I never said I wanted to make your ears bleed. That takes at least 130 dB, this is "only" 59 dB. Besides, you could always rheostat the sucker as necessary! (Yes, sucker. I had my FM-122 as an intake and at full tilt, it worked just like a vacuum cleaner. That was only 110 CFM.)


----------



## Oscuro

Heh....trust me, after I found out about the performance of the Deltas....I've been considering fan swapping....again.
Remember, I'm not running the stock Coolermaster fans...but the Noctua S12 series....which just aren't flowing well enough.
Yes, they are Silent....but not enough flow to keep up with my little 92mm Deltas!

But then that's a good chunk of change gone....on fans I won't use any more....Anyone want some Noctuas? 1 month old! Very quiet!


----------



## Blitz6804

I have the same problem with my Scythe. Sure, it is silent (12.8 dB), but it also moves NOTHING!

I want good air flow without sounding like a wind tunnel. If I have that, I am happy.

Maybe someone has some higher-CFM fans to sell to Oscuro on the cheap? Maybe shipping-only?


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Do with what? The money coming back to me? I already ordered 4 GB of Mushkin Redline DDR 500. If you mean the TWINX2048-3200C2PT, I am holding the offer open to Froggy1986 first, and if she does not want them, will be opening it up to anyone who has value RAM in their main rig.

I meant the money


----------



## Blitz6804

-Inferno's join date is now: 03/31/2008

Daemonix, reberto, and Mootsfox will all be available next week.


----------



## Oscuro

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I have the same problem with my Scythe. Sure, it is silent (12.8 dB), but it also moves NOTHING!

I want good air flow without sounding like a wind tunnel. If I have that, I am happy.

Maybe someone has some higher-CFM fans to sell to Oscuro on the cheap? Maybe shipping-only?

Ahhh, no worries man, but thanks








I'll step up and buy some new ones later on, probably after I build my bed, or get a new bike.
Might have to just get two Kaze Bays, and buy 4 fans, keep the hard drives cooled by the S12 Noctua (They're hard drives!)...But then I'd need another bloody fan controller....but I don't have space for another one....crap. I mean, 2 exhaust, 2 intake, and two on the HSF...Could do Rheostats...maybe...


----------



## nategr8ns

build potentiometers right into the case


----------



## Oscuro

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
build potentiometers right into the case









Don't know how I'd do that and still keep the clean look that I like about it...


----------



## Blitz6804

Build them into PCI-slot covers. I have a bunch of PCI-slot potentiometers that came with all my Thermaltakes (2xA2016, 3xA2017); using one on my FM-122B, works well.


----------



## Oscuro

True...would solve that problem, and I wouldn't need to really use them that frequently as I'd plug the exhaust fans into them...
Good ideas


----------



## Blitz6804

Who here is awake and has Race 07? I am likely going to start a race tonight.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I'm awake, but I'm bummed out.

It might be fun to have one race. But not until 11:30 PST.


----------



## Blitz6804

Ditto. Hence why I want to fire it up...

Now, where is Pioneerdrivesbackwardswhiledoingdonuts?


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Oscuro* 
Last I checked, the slot should be running at 16x. I'll figure it out later.
I did find out why my second delta wasn't running...the fan extension/adapter seems to have a loose connection in the wiring I believe, in such that it can, if moved, randomly lose power to the fan. Luckily not a catastrophic problem (2x Deltas for Performance....and redundancy!), but I think I am going to have to find a way to make this Noctua a bolt-thru. One Delta weighs a fair chunk more than the stock Noctua fan, and I have a pair of the damned things!
Then again, you'd think it'd be fine since this is pretty much the exact same mounting system Noctua uses for the NH-U12F which is the 120mm version.

Either way...I give you pictures! Heh, how you bastardize a Noctua with some good old brute flow!
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...o/100_3016.jpg

A bit blurrier than I like, but this isn't a competition or review or anything...But the front of the Stacker (needs a fan right under the DVD drive...)
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...o/100_3017.jpg

You are correct. The top slot is 16x. The second PCI-e 16 slot is 8x.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Iceman0803* 
You are correct. The top slot is 16x. The second PCI-e 16 slot is 8x.

Iceman, actually on a single video card the PCIE4 16x slot runs at 2x bandwidth.

This is sort of why I asked Oscuro about this. I had my 3850 in that slot for the longest time until I RTFM. I saw a noticeable performance jump when I switched to PCIE1. Apparently this is not the case for Oscuro


----------



## f4t4l1ty

Woot woot.

Add me.


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Iceman, actually on a single video card the PCIE4 16x slot runs at 2x bandwidth.

This is sort of why I asked Oscuro about this. I had my 3850 in that slot for the longest time until I RTFM. I saw a noticeable performance jump when I switched to PCIE1. Apparently this is not the case for Oscuro









Oh, I was under the impression that the PCIE4 slot always ran 8x (iirc it even says something in the manual to that effect). Thats why I never used it (when running a single card) on my Expert board.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Iceman0803* 
Oh, I was under the impression that the PCIE4 slot always ran 8x (iirc it even says something in the manual to that effect). Thats why I never used it (when running a single card) on my Expert board.

Iceman, it only runs at 8x when SLI is enabled via jumper and when two cards are installed


----------



## Raziel

Please add me. I'll be posting screen caps of my OC (all but modest) once I have a second.









Maybe someone here can help me get more out of the system I have.... can't wait to talk to someone about it.....


----------



## txtmstrjoe

f4t4l1ty and Raziel, we'd be happy to add you to our Club.







We just need a CPU-Z validation link/screenshot from you so that we can formally add you to our roster.


----------



## boonie2

TAX MONIES HERE







Time for some serious shopping


----------



## Blitz6804

No! BAD BOONIE! Save your money for rent!


----------



## nategr8ns

rent is much more important than computer shopping, IMO of course


----------



## Oscuro

Why would he need to save it for rent? Isn't that what the money from a job is for? That's what my job does...is take care of my rent for me...and bills. Ugh....bills.

Gonna go BIOS delving to see if I can liberate some GPU power...And maybe tweak my ram up a few notches.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
No! BAD BOONIE! Save your money for rent!









Rent is always handled , along with all the necessities from my paycheck {with little or no room for error} but still handled --- This is TAX MONEY







SPLURGE MONEY







the once a year DO WHAT YOU WANT MONEY {within reason}







the absolute , ultimate , go for it , caution to the wind , never say die , the............................................... .................................................o k karen ill put it in he bank.................... money ...............................


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, Karen has to keep you on a shorter leash I think. *Chuckles*

Like last year, I made a small profit on my taxes. This year, it was only 7Â¢, but that is profit none-the-less. (Last year was 83Â¢.) The reason being: no matter what you pay, the government rounds the return up to the nearest dollar via the ceiling function.

Pay $20.93, get back $21!


----------



## Oscuro

Hmmm....
Found a small improvement:









Might be the difference from running 3dmark when the computer had been on already before (957X), to this time which was right after start up...
As I don't recall raising the PCIE bus frequency to 102mhz having that much improvement


----------



## boonie2

yep , togather we ended up really well this yr. I paid in alot of taxes thruout the year and with karens refund it totaled $4466 not to mention GEORGES stimulis rebate which is still due .. the way the economy is now tho have to play it safe and bank most of it , some repairs on my Sport Trac , and her toyota , and thats about it , maybe a new premium board till am3 comes out .. prowl ebay alittle


----------



## Rug

I have a x2 4400+ Toledo.. Unfortunately, my computer hates me and freezes whenever I open CPU-Z. Likely because of my new PSU.

I'll get a link or screenshot or whatever up as soon as I can. I have a Mods rigs entry here if that gives enough proof (there's a 3DMark link):

http://www.evga.com/community/ModsRi...asp?sysid=3117

3DMark link: http://service.futuremark.com/result...eResultType=14


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Oscuro*


Hmmm....
Found a small improvement:

***pics edited out***

Might be the difference from running 3dmark when the computer had been on already before (957X), to this time which was right after start up...
As I don't recall raising the PCIE bus frequency to 102mhz having that much improvement


Oscuro:
May I ask why you're ending up with such a low score? My sig rig scored 11120 in 3DMark06 when running XP. I would think your GTX could get you a much higher score than my GTS.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Oscuro:
May I ask why you're ending up with such a low score? My sig rig scored 11120 in 3DMark06 when running XP. I would think your GTX could get you a much higher score than my GTS.


I think the GTX has the older core. We have the G92 in the 8800GT and GTS


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


I think the GTX has the older core. We have the G92 in the 8800GT and GTS


I can agree there, however I would still expect the GTX to perform slightly higher based off its price...am I wrong on this? Its also got a higher bus width, which in return SHOULD have given it more performance. I dunno, its odd that you don't even break 10k though Oscuro.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Found this on the 8800GTX Vs 8800GT

Quote:



While not a new architecture, the GPU behind the 8800 GT has certainly been massaged quite a bit from the G80. The G92 is fabbed on a 65nm process, and even though it has fewer SPs, less texturing power, and not as many ROPs as the G80, it's made up of more transistors (754M vs. 681M). This is partly due to the fact that G92 integrates the updated video processing engine (VP2), and the display engine that previously resided off chip. Now, all the display logic including TMDS hardware is integrated onto the GPU itself.

In addition to the new features, there have been some enhancements to the architecture that likely added a few million transistors here and there as well. While we were unable to get any really good details, we were told that lossless compression ratios were increased in order to enable better performance at higher resolutions over the lower bandwidth memory bus attached to the G92 on 8800 GT. We also know that the proportion of texture address units to texture filtering units has increased to a 1:1 ratio (similar to the 8600 GTS, but in a context where we can actually expect decent performance). This should also improve memory bandwidth usage and texturing power in general.


----------



## Oscuro

Possibility? My Opty is only running at 2.6ghz vs your 3.0
Otherwise, I don't know why. Been trying to find that out myself really.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Found this on the 8800GTX Vs 8800GT


You know, that made absolutely no sense to me at all, lol. Still, you'll find that you've just gotten a cookie for the extra effort.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Oscuro*


Possibility? My Opty is only running at 2.6ghz vs your 3.0
Otherwise, I don't know why. Been trying to find that out myself really.


The extra Mhz we are getting does play a good part in the score. I average 23xx per 3D Mark06 run on the CPU

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


You know, that made absolutely no sense to me at all, lol. Still, you'll find that you've just gotten a cookie for the extra effort.


I like cookies....Mmmm chocolate chip.

Basically while the GTX is on the G80 and has more unified shaders, the 8800GT is on the G92 has lower unified shaders but a few million more transistors. The 8800GT is a better optimized with it's memory bandwidth. That is if I read that correctly.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I think Oscuro's chip is running quite a bit slower than yours is, pioneer. This might explain the difference in bench scores.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I think Oscuro's chip is running quite a bit slower than yours is, pioneer. This might explain the difference in bench scores.










I believe you to be correct in your evaluation of the situation in the complexity of the problem we are facing with the questions of the thingy.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


I believe you to be correct in your evaluation of the situation in the complexity of the problem we are facing with the questions of the thingy.












Or, in English:

Bwahahahahahahahaha









Well played, G.O.!


----------



## GuardianOdin

my engrish is mighty


----------



## pioneerisloud

That's very true, I forgot completely about CPU speed. Anyways, here's my finalized pictures of my sig rig, until I decide to mod the case. Enjoy...but don't drool too much. I'm just copying and pasting from the post your rate my cables thread, so bear with it.
-------------------------
Alright, well here's my finalized rig until I do my mod. I'm still unsure if I even want to mod the case, if its even worth it....but we'll see about that later.

Anyways, here's my *SIG RIG*, in its full beautyness now. The only thing that MAY change in the future would be a new hard drive on it. I doubt I'll be adding different hardware to it other than that. Enjoy, and let me know what you think.









































































Well that's it for now







. BTW, my addition was some 36" UV blue SATA Cables with a single 90* angle....for those that are wondering. You can see in my pics how I ran them.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Wow very nice job mate! My case looks like crap with all the cables inside.. I need some cable management too


----------



## iandroo888

considering it is an aspire case. its the best u can do. i havent had the time to do it with mine yet but should expect something close to pioneer's. that cross bar is a PITA unless u do some mods to it but im afraid cutting that bar weakens the support of psu (altho psu is screwed in)... but material used on chassis seems kinda cheapy


----------



## thlnk3r

Oscuro, push that processor more









Pioneer, clean case inside







I just finished my CM690 last night. I'll get some pics up sometime this week.


----------



## iandroo888

th1nk3r has a 690?!? and hasnt joined my club?!? omg


----------



## nategr8ns

he talks about it somewhat often...
looks good! I am also a cheapskate when it comes to cases... My dad just picked up an A900 though, and I'm going to get that when I'm done building him a case


----------



## Raziel

Here's my validation...

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=357791

Now, anyone able to help me get more out of this setup, it's greatly appreciated. I'm new to the overclocking thing, well, relatively new. I played around with old processors back in the late 90's but never was stable. Now, I want to be stable and milk this for the best it's got!









It's the signature rig that I'm working right now.
All help is greatly appreciated.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Raziel*


Here's my validation...

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=357791

Now, anyone able to help me get more out of this setup, it's greatly appreciated. I'm new to the overclocking thing, well, relatively new. I played around with old processors back in the late 90's but never was stable. Now, I want to be stable and milk this for the best it's got!









It's the signature rig that I'm working right now.
All help is greatly appreciated.










Raziel, welcome to the 939 club









Have you had a chance to go over any of the guides? Here are a few that I'd recommend reading over:

http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...ing-guide.html
http://icrontic.com/articles/a64_overclocking_theory

The Manchestor core is a decent overclocker but can be voltage hungry. The average OC that I see the most is between 2.6 - 2.7Ghz. Quite a bit of voltage is required to hit 2.7Ghz. Feel free to ask MORE questions please









Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Welcome, Raziel! I've added you to our roster.









We've got many helpful people in our Club who can and will help you get more out of your S939 machine. But the first step is always yours. In anything as complex as overclocking is, you have to have a solid foundation of knowledge; knowledge will then give you the ability to understand, and from there you get the confidence that you truly know what you're doing.









The thread's first post has a plethora of helpful links that should help get you started. If you just want one article that can hopefully "explain it all," this is the one I'd personally recommend. It's a detailed read, but it will help you off the ground, for sure.

Good luck to you as you start your S939 OCing adventures! We'll be here to help guide you to a hopefully fast and stable system.


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Iceman, it only runs at 8x when SLI is enabled via jumper and when two cards are installed










Here's how it's worded on DFI's site:

Quote:



Single VGA mode 
- 1 PCI Express graphics card on the PCIE1 slot operates at x16 bandwidth.
- The other PCI Express x16 slot *(PCIE4) operates at x2 bandwidth*.


Now I'm confused. Does that mean PCIE4 runs at 1/8 the bandwidth of PCIE1 when not in SLI??


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Iceman0803*


Now I'm confused. Does that mean PCIE4 runs at 1/8 the bandwidth of PCIE1 when not in SLI??


Yes.









When the jumpers are set in SLI mode, the PCI-E slots each run at x8 (or, half the bandwidth of PCI-E graphics slot 1's).


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rug*


I have a x2 4400+ Toledo.. Unfortunately, my computer hates me and freezes whenever I open CPU-Z. Likely because of my new PSU.

I'll get a link or screenshot or whatever up as soon as I can. I have a Mods rigs entry here if that gives enough proof (there's a 3DMark link):

http://www.evga.com/community/ModsRi...asp?sysid=3117

3DMark link: http://service.futuremark.com/result...eResultType=14


Do you know what version you have of CPU-Z you have? If you have an older one (or a bad checksum) you might be getting that issue. Current version is 1.44.2.

I am sure would let a 3DMark serve to validate you, I am further sure he missed your post.


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Yes.









When the jumpers are set in SLI mode, the PCI-E slots each run at x8 (or, half the bandwidth of PCI-E graphics slot 1's).


Ok so I was right about PCIE4 being slower than 1 (in single VGA mode). But I was wrong about how much slower. I think I've got it now......







Thx for the clarification.


----------



## boonie2

WELCOME REISEL


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Iceman0803*


Ok so I was right about PCIE4 being slower than 1 (in single VGA mode). But I was wrong about how much slower. I think I've got it now......







Thx for the clarification.


Iceman, my 3DMark06 scores between the two were also interesting:

PCIE4 2x - 8777
PCIE1 16x - 9693


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Iceman, my 3DMark06 scores between the two were also interesting:

PCIE4 2x - 8777
PCIE1 16x - 9693











Thats interesting....







. Only a 900 (or so) point difference between 1 and 4. I would have thoght it would be more tbh.


----------



## Blitz6804

Question for anyone who knows the answer:

The stock AMD Athlon64 X2 cooler: is it a blow-down or a suck-up configuration?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Question for anyone who knows the answer:

The stock AMD Athlon64 X2 cooler: is it a blow-down or a suck-up configuration?

Blitz, I believe the fan pushes air downwards at the fins.


----------



## GuardianOdin

FSB of 360!!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
FSB of 360!!

Guardian, right on man









Bump that multiplier to 9x and see if it's stable


----------



## Blitz6804

Keep your fire extinguisher near by just in case...


----------



## boonie2

hey thats my line...........


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Keep your fire extinguisher near by just in case...

Blitz, I hope your joking because it's physically impossible for anything to catch on fire in his case....


----------



## Blitz6804

I am joking.

Though, to be perfectly honest, every time I run an S&M run I do grab my fire extinguisher in the outside chance something goes wrong.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Guardian, right on man









Bump that multiplier to 9x and see if it's stable









that would give me 3.2Ghz!....Hmmmm wonder if it will work brb


----------



## Rug

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Do you know what version you have of CPU-Z you have? If you have an older one (or a bad checksum) you might be getting that issue. Current version is 1.44.2.

I am sure would let a 3DMark serve to validate you, I am further sure he missed your post.

Yeah, I downloaded that version last night after it crashed, but it only happened again. I'll figure it out this weekend.


----------



## Blitz6804

Does the CPUID function of Everest work by chance?


----------



## GuardianOdin

didn't work, but now I know I can hit HTT 360. I changed the multiplier to 9x but the system show an "error of missing the boot up files" when I restarted into Windows. I have seen it before and that when I know it has gone a bit of range. Any idea if I can go past that?


----------



## Rug

Great idea! I'll have a screenshot up in a few minutes.

And there we are..


----------



## Blitz6804

How many volts are you running through her GuardianOdin? What is the highest HTT you have ran with the 9x multiplier; can you try taking 9x360 and start taking off until it boots?

To address Rug (supra): I meant Computer>Sumary. It shows everything that CPU-Z does.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


How many volts are you running through her GuardianOdin? What is the highest HTT you have ran with the 9x multiplier; can you try taking 9x360 and start taking off until it boots?

To address Rug (supra): I meant Computer>Sumary. It shows everything that CPU-Z does.


I'm going to start messing with Thursday evening. I wanted to see my cap on the HTT, but my highest on a 9 multiplier so far has been 346. I could run apps and firefox but was not stable with any kind of testing.


----------



## Rug

The list is very long so I only captured the top portion. There's nothing relevant below, anyways.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Question for anyone who knows the answer:

The stock AMD Athlon64 X2 cooler: is it a blow-down or a suck-up configuration?


Here's an easy way to tell which direction the air will move on a fan:

Look at any fan's blades; notice how the blade is always curved. The concave surface is the one that PUSHES the air. Therefore, air will always move opposite the blade's concave surface.










Hope someone finds that helpful (or even interesting).


----------



## boonie2

Or you could always put your hand in front of it







....good point joe







.. and thanx for the stickers


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, but I do not have the stock cooler in front of me. (It is buried in the garage.) Anyone who has a stock cooler running want to stick their finger near it for me?

Joe: YGPM.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Glad to see the badges got there, boonie!









Please welcome our two newest members: Rug, a new friend, and Iceman0803, an older one.









And thanks, Sub-Zero, for the roster help, as always!


----------



## boonie2

Welcome Rug And Iceman0803


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 







Welcome Rug And Iceman0803









Thanks!


----------



## Oscuro

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Yeah, but I do not have the stock cooler in front of me. (It is buried in the garage.) Anyone who has a stock cooler running want to stick their finger near it for me?

Joe: YGPM.

That's same one that came with the Optys? 4 heatpipes, etc?
If so, it blows downwards onto the HS. I have it in my hand, blade geometry means downward pusher.

In other news...trying to find the max FSB my DFI can handle....I'm having trouble believing it can't hit 300mhz...FSB hole?

When I tried 300, it would get part way through post, try backing up the CMOS, and some of the letters would be orange on the screen. Went back, upped the Chipset voltage to 1.59, and the LDT voltage to 1.4. Cured that problem, and it'd boot to windows....barely. Crashing, hanging. It ain't happy.
So, I went back to 298 fsb, and it'll boot to windows, but I can't open OCCT. Period.
LDT/FSB is at 4.0x
Ram is at 120 (03/05 divider)
And my CPU multi is at 7.
Vcore is at 4.25


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Oscuro, perhaps you can try a 6x CPU multiplier?


----------



## Blitz6804

I do not know what the stock cooler is, my CPU was OEM. My stock San Diego cooler had no heat pipes.

As to RAM, how do you get 120? 300*(3/5) = 180.


----------



## Oscuro

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I do not know what the stock cooler is, my CPU was OEM. My stock San Diego cooler had no heat pipes.

As to RAM, how do you get 120? 300*(3/5) = 180.


120(3/5) is what it said in the bios, which would be based off of a stock 200mhz. Sorry for the confusion.

Running memtest right now....since, well: I dropped it back to 260 Core, raised things back to what they were before hand....and now it does a memory dump when I get into windows.
Aggravating.


----------



## Blitz6804

After an overclock fails, you often need to reset the CMOS to prevent the effects from cascading into Windows.


----------



## Oscuro

....Well....Sonofa...

Cleared CMOS. Windows isn't playing along.
Bloody hell.


----------



## Blitz6804

You cleared the CMOS and booted to Windows stock? Once you do that, you can usually re-overclock it.

Unless you somehow damaged your partition being too ambitious; Pioneer knows that one well.


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Oscuro*


That's same one that came with the Optys? 4 heatpipes, etc?
If so, it blows downwards onto the HS. I have it in my hand, blade geometry means downward pusher.

In other news...trying to find the max FSB my DFI can handle....I'm having trouble believing it can't hit 300mhz...FSB hole?

When I tried 300, it would get part way through post, try backing up the CMOS, and some of the letters would be orange on the screen. Went back, upped the Chipset voltage to 1.59, and the LDT voltage to 1.4. Cured that problem, and it'd boot to windows....barely. Crashing, hanging. It ain't happy.
So, I went back to 298 fsb, and it'll boot to windows, but I can't open OCCT. Period.
LDT/FSB is at 4.0x
Ram is at 120 (03/05 divider)
And my CPU multi is at 7.
Vcore is at 4.25


A FSB "hole" is possible. Although you may also be maxed. Mine will do 300 but unfortunately I never tested above that so I cant tell you what to expect beyond that.


----------



## Oscuro

Well, it looks like my ram spawned some errors.

Ran fine before hand.

Before I cleared the CMOS, I had a recurring error during test #4...while at DDR425 or something.
Now I have errors on tests 3,5,6.....At all stock.

Great. F-d the ram?
Christ, how the hell do I do that when I never pushed them hard at -all- and raised the vDDR by .01v?!


----------



## Blitz6804

Dumb luck?

My Corsairs were working perfectly until one day I started to get random Blue Screens. Loosening my tRC / tRFC fixed it, even if only temporarily.

A week later, a pair lost dual-channel.

Contact Corsair, they will hook you up. The only DDR they still make is the TWINX2048-3200C2PT. They will either* RMA you that, or give you a refund if not an equitable swap.

*Your mileage may vary.


----------



## Oscuro

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Dumb luck?

My Corsairs were working perfectly until one day I started to get random Blue Screens. Loosening my tRC / tRFC fixed it, even if only temporarily.
*Your mileage may vary.


Will try that...
But can't do much on the warranty front....Bought them second hand off of GeekMan.


----------



## Blitz6804

Check the warranty. I thought Corsairs was transferable limited lifetime, but cannot be sure on that.

MODIFICATION:

http://www.corsair.com/warranty/default.aspx

Nope, I am wrong. If GeekMan has the receipt, he may be able to help you out.


----------



## froggy1986

That just reminded me of why I love OCZ. Pioneer bought his ddr400 off a guy on here and it was damaged. He called up OCZ told them he bought them second hand and in return, not only RMA'd em for new sticks, but got upgraded to his ddr500.


----------



## Oscuro

Geekman said they were approaching 2 years old, and he doesn't have the receipt. Said they should be safe to 2.85v *blink*

Anyways, dropped a pair of G.Skill in, and it's the same thing, Memory Dump when Windows starts loading up programs (Windows has already booted, get to my desktop, starts loading stuff, then it mem. dumps)
I guess I need to reformat?


----------



## Oscuro

Ubuntu 7.10 Live-CD works.

I assume I corrupted something.
....
Lovely.
*sigh* I really should learn to backup my games and crap....I mean....really.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *froggy1986* 
That just reminded me of why I love OCZ. Pioneer bought his ddr400 off a guy on here and it was damaged. He called up OCZ told them he bought them second hand and in return, not only RMA'd em for new sticks, but got upgraded to his ddr500.

Froggy, what a deal


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *froggy1986* 
That just reminded me of why I love OCZ. Pioneer bought his ddr400 off a guy on here and it was damaged. He called up OCZ told them he bought them second hand and in return, not only RMA'd em for new sticks, but got upgraded to his ddr500.

thats awesome


----------



## MikeV_E36

It's been 3 days on o/c and I'm very happy. The system is running great, stable! There is only one problem







I used Lavasys Everest to monitor the temps of the system and I have noticed that it causes a minor I/O interrupt which causes distortion to the mp3 I play







Any idea solving this one? It's a pity cause I liked this program for monitoring


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Oscuro* 
Ubuntu 7.10 Live-CD works.

I assume I corrupted something.
....
Lovely.
*sigh* I really should learn to backup my games and crap....I mean....really.

The Live-CD should be sufficient to back up your "games and crap" since Ubuntu can now read/write NTFS file system. (Back in 5.10, NTFS was R/O.)

If memtest gives you errors with either set of RAM, you may have damaged the processor's internal memory controller or motherboard. If memtest only gives you errors on the Corsair, then it is more likely the Corsair to blame. Try memtest (on Live-CD) with different DIMMs and slots to test the theory.

Also, the age of the RAM does not matter. Corsair is lifetime warranty. My recently-RMAed RAM was over two years old for example.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
It's been 3 days on o/c and I'm very happy. The system is running great, stable! There is only one problem







I used Lavasys Everest to monitor the temps of the system and I have noticed that it causes a minor I/O interrupt which causes distortion to the mp3 I play







Any idea solving this one? It's a pity cause I liked this program for monitoring

Are you using onboard audio, or a sound card? If a sound card, try a different PCI-slot.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Ok,I have been able to push the HTT to 363. Now according to CPUZ and GPUZ. What benefits could I gain with a higher HTT/FSB?


----------



## Blitz6804

Real-live performance; not much.

Benchmarking, a few points here or there. If my math is right, around 10,000 3DMarks, every 2 MHz = 1 3DMark. Approximately 200 MHz = 1 s in SuperPi [1m]. Et cetera.

Not much but bragging rights at this point.

Kudos on your tRC by the way. That is REALLY low. "Ideal" for your system as-is is 13, and you smash that!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Real-live performance; not much.

Benchmarking, a few points here or there. If my math is right, around 10,000 3DMarks, every 2 MHz = 1 3DMark. Approximately 200 MHz = 1 s in SuperPi [1m]. Et cetera.

Not much but bragging rights at this point.

Kudos on your tRC by the way. That is REALLY low. "Ideal" for your system as-is is 13, and you smash that!

I was hoping for better bandwidth. I'm trying to find that "sweet" spot. I'm not to worried about 3D Mark 06 points right now. I did however noticed a speed increase in apps opening. Now if I could get an HTT/FSB of 375,then I'd be at 3ghz







going to try and speed the ram up a bit more as well.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Ok a few things here

1. HTT/FSB is stable to 375







3D Mark06 anyways.
2. Shaved 2 seconds off SuperPi 30 down to 28
3. DRAM idle Timer from 32clocks to 16clocks

Here is a screen


----------



## boonie2

Nice goin


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I'm hoping Guardian's data will somehow correlate with my hitherto postponed experiments with RAM and CPU Frequency. I've really got to get my big butt in gear and finish up with the DFI testing rig rebuild.

(I'd like to say that I'm blaming thlnk3r for this -- because I sold him my old CM690 -- but it's not his fault I'm slow at putting things back together again.)


----------



## boonie2

wow just noticed I reached 35 rep status







thanx OCN members


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
wow just noticed I reached 35 rep status







thanx OCN members

Good work! Now you can sell stuff too.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Is there any difference between 3700+ and 4000+ ?


----------



## Oscuro

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
The Live-CD should be sufficient to back up your "games and crap" since Ubuntu can now read/write NTFS file system. (Back in 5.10, NTFS was R/O.)

If memtest gives you errors with either set of RAM, you may have damaged the processor's internal memory controller or motherboard. If memtest only gives you errors on the Corsair, then it is more likely the Corsair to blame. Try memtest (on Live-CD) with different DIMMs and slots to test the theory.

Also, the age of the RAM does not matter. Corsair is lifetime warranty. My recently-RMAed RAM was over two years old for example.

.....why couldn't you have posted this.....last night?!








Ahhh well. **** happens due to ignorance. I did test the G-Skills, not fully, but I don't remember errors.
Augh....I'm gonna slap myself and get the clocking going again.


----------



## smb_

San Diego Core? ...other than the multiplier, no!


----------



## Blitz6804

ZealotKi11er: As smb_ said, the only difference between the 3700+ and the 4000+ is the multiplier. Both have the same voltage requirements, both are socket 939, both have a max temperature of 71Âº C.

Well, except for a CG revision 4000+. That is the 130nm version, and tops out at 70Âº C.


----------



## nategr8ns

^ you know too much, lol
what size is the other type of 4000+? (as opposed to 130nm..., or is it also 130nm?)


----------



## Blitz6804

All the other revisions of both (E4 / E6 for the 3700+, and E4 / E6 for the 4000+) are all 90nm.

The E4's can take 1.35 or 1.40 V as "stock," whereas the E6 only have 1.35 V as "stock."

4000+ CG:
OPN Tray ADA4000DEP5AS
OPN PIB ADA4000ASBOX

4000+ E4:
OPN Tray ADA4000DAA5BN
OPN PIB ADA4000BNBOX

4000+ E6:
OPN Tray ADA4000DKA5CF
OPN PIB ADA4000CFBOX

3700+ E4:
OPN Tray ADA3700DAA5BN
OPN PIB ADA3700BNBOX

3700+ E6:
OPN Tray ADA3700DKA5CF
OPN PIB ADA3700CFBOX

All five are 89 W.

Sorry, I forgot to mention: the CG, in addition to having a lower maximum temperature, needs 1.50 V to operate at full speed.


----------



## boonie2

WHO IS THAT MASKED MAN?????????


----------



## Blitz6804

Is anyone here armed with Gran Turismo 5, Mario Kart Wii, Ridge Racer 7, or Burnout Paradise? I am itching for some non-Race 07 races. The arcade racers (MKW or BP) are preferred, but I will take any at this point.


----------



## nategr8ns

sorry for this totally off topic post, but nothing is too off topic for this thread, right?

Which 32 bit versions of Windows can address more than ~3.5gb of ram? Whats the command in boot.ini that cuts it down to ~3.5 in XP and vista?


----------



## MikeV_E36

I don't think there is any win32bit version that can address to 3,5gb+ RAM neither have I ever heard of any tweak in boot.ini to achieve so.

Unfortunately my sound card is onboard. Do you think that the soundcard and the sensor bus use the same IRQ and thus cause these interrupts? Is there a way to assign a new IRQ at the soundcard?


----------



## MikeV_E36

Problem solved! I disabled the IRQ mapping for midi and game ports and works fine now


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I'm hoping Guardian's data will somehow correlate with my hitherto postponed experiments with RAM and CPU Frequency. I've really got to get my big butt in gear and finish up with the DFI testing rig rebuild.

(I'd like to say that I'm blaming thlnk3r for this -- because I sold him my old CM690 -- but it's not his fault I'm slow at putting things back together again.)


let me know if I can help and I will. Currently sitting at HTT of 377 and RAM is at DDR502 T1.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
Which 32 bit versions of Windows can address more than ~3.5gb of ram? Whats the command in boot.ini that cuts it down to ~3.5 in XP and vista?

Nate, win2k datacenter, win2k3 enterprise and win2k3 datacenter (32-bit versions) allow for more than 3.5GB of memory. Vista and XP have a limitation in the OS at 3.5GB. You can however use the /PAE (physical address extension) feature in the boot.ini file but the OS still won't use all of the 4GB, it will only recognize the rest of the memory. From what I understand the rest of the 500mb of memory becomes allocated for hardware devices, I/O ect ect. Here's an entire thread about 4GB of memory on 32-bit versions of Vista: http://channel9.msdn.com/ShowPost.aspx?PostID=281738

I hope that answers your questions


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
let me know if I can help and I will. Currently sitting at HTT of 377 and RAM is at DDR502 T1.

Will do, good sir!

For sure, though, I have serious doubts that my DFI LP UT nF4 Ultra-D can hit such a high HTT Frequency.









Just another item to add to retest, I suppose!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Will do, good sir!

For sure, though, I have serious doubts that my DFI LP UT nF4 Ultra-D can hit such a high HTT Frequency.









Just another item to add to retest, I suppose!









Well, now I know the Mobo capabilities. I need better cooling. I hit 379 and the CPU is simply not stable with OCCT or Orthos. I'm right back where I was with the 9 multiplier. Basically the CPU is what is holding me back.

The HTT hole is between 349-359 or so. Anything between those numbers and it poops out on me.


----------



## nategr8ns

thanks thinker! I just won my argument


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Nate, win2k datacenter, win2k3 enterprise and win2k3 datacenter (32-bit versions) allow for more than 3.5GB of memory. Vista and XP have a limitation in the OS at 3.5GB. You can however use the /PAE (physical address extension) feature in the boot.ini file but the OS still won't use all of the 4GB, it will only recognize the rest of the memory. From what I understand the rest of the 500mb of memory becomes allocated for hardware devices, I/O ect ect. Here's an entire thread about 4GB of memory on 32-bit versions of Vista: http://channel9.msdn.com/ShowPost.aspx?PostID=281738

I hope that answers your questions










Answerd my question too , thanx , ive been lookin for a way to use 4gb also in 32 vista business , hate to waste 1gb


----------



## boonie2

Have another quick question , does anyone know if my board can use pc4000 ddr500 memory , cant seem to find any reference anywhere addressing that , hate to pass a really great deal up on OCZ ddr500 2-1gb ........ thanx


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
Have another quick question , does anyone know if my board can use pc4000 ddr500 memory , cant seem to find any reference anywhere addressing that , hate to pass a really great deal up on OCZ ddr500 2-1gb ........ thanx

Yes, your board can use DDR500 RAM.


----------



## boonie2

Great thanks Joe


----------



## nategr8ns

^ even if it didn't, you could just set it at pc3200 right? and then when you overclock it, it will go up to ~500mhz and you don't have to worry about loosening timings








but I'm not sure if the memory is backwards compatible like that.


----------



## smb_

All DDR is 'backwards compatible'


----------



## txtmstrjoe

On K8s, the RAM Frequency is a ratio of the HTT Clock ("FSB") : RAM Divider/RAM Frequency Ratio. There are then two salient points we can glean from this: 1) K8 systems (indeed, all modern personal computer systems) are always running on a RAM divider (1:1 is still a valid ratio, after all); and 2) RAM speed is completely dependent on the reference clock (HTT Clock or FSB, on Intels or older systems).

Technically speaking, the only real compatibility issue you need to worry about when it comes to RAM has less to do with the frequency rating (DDR400; DDR500; etc.) and more to do with the pinouts/RAM type (DDR; DDR2; DDR3; etc.). If your system requires DDR, only 184-pin DDR will work on the board (the DIMM slot, and therefore the memory controller, dictates this). RAM frequency can always be altered to suit (i.e., overclocked or underclocked) in the BIOS through the use of the RAM Divider settings. Of course, if the system fails to POST, it will have everything to do with whether or not the RAM can run at the speed you're asking it to (especially if, through your settings, you're asking the DIMMs to run faster than they are capable).

Hope this helps!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
On K8s, the RAM Frequency is a ratio of the HTT Clock ("FSB") : RAM Divider/RAM Frequency Ratio. There are then two salient points we can glean from this: 1) K8 systems (indeed, all modern personal computer systems) are always running on a RAM divider (1:1 is still a valid ratio, after all); and 2) RAM speed is completely dependent on the reference clock (HTT Clock or FSB, on Intels or older systems).

Technically speaking, the only real compatibility issue you need to worry about when it comes to RAM has less to do with the frequency rating (DDR400; DDR500; etc.) and more to do with the pinouts/RAM type (DDR; DDR2; DDR3; etc.). If your system requires DDR, only 184-pin DDR will work on the board (the DIMM slot, and therefore the memory controller, dictates this). RAM frequency can always be altered to suit (i.e., overclocked or underclocked) in the BIOS through the use of the RAM Divider settings. Of course, if the system fails to POST, it will have everything to do with whether or not the RAM can run at the speed you're asking it to (especially if, through your settings, you're asking the DIMMs to run faster than they are capable).

Hope this helps!









some more please! I'm trying to get my RAM stable at DDR600. I am very close but I know I'll have to open the latency a bit more to get it stable. That with the HTT at 377 I'm hoping "and tell me if I'm wrong" to balance the bandwidth of the over all system.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Well, one of the many claims I'm trying to test with my currently-postponed experiment is whether or not RAM dividers (or, more precisely, RAM divider settings for the same HTT Freq and the same CPU Freq) affect bandwidth or if they even translate to any perceptible real-world effects (i.e., effects a user can actually perceive). Once I get that ball rolling again, we ought to have some numbers to back up the claims/theories.

Personally, I'd like to see if "CPU Speed is King." Which basically means you get the most performance gains from increasing CPU Frequency, as opposed to trying to run the smallest RAM divider (and therefore, the highest RAM OC) possible.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Well, one of the many claims I'm trying to test with my currently-postponed experiment is whether or not RAM dividers (or, more precisely, RAM divider settings for the same HTT Freq and the same CPU Freq) affect bandwidth or if they even translate to any perceptible real-world effects (i.e., effects a user can actually perceive). Once I get that ball rolling again, we ought to have some numbers to back up the claims/theories.

Personally, I'd like to see if "CPU Speed is King." Which basically means you get the most performance gains from increasing CPU Frequency, as opposed to trying to run the smallest RAM divider (and therefore, the highest RAM OC) possible.









I would say CPU is "king" only to a point. For example: [email protected] When I had my set to the following

HTT 334
Multiplier of 9
RAM at DDR532
HT of 3x

It would fold with no issues,but seemed to take a while longer than I wanted it to.

Now with my system to these settings

HTT 377
Multiplier of 8
RAM at DDR508
HT of 2x

[email protected] DOES fold faster. I would honestly say it folds 2 units of 500 for every 1 of the other settings. I can fold a 5000 point unit in half the time as well.

In short I do believe the increased bandwidth does help and is noticeable. Now as far as games all I have played is City of Heroes and that really doesn't require a beefy system to run. I'm going to install Company of Heroes and Crysis again and see what effect the increased bandwidth has "if any" on them.


----------



## Blitz6804

I have to say, your results are a little confusing. Example 1 is running at 3006. Example 2 is running at 3016. The second CPU is faster, by 0.33%, and the RAM is slower, by 4.51%. Not to mention that in the second instance, the hyper transport is 24.75% slower!

You just have me baffled, seriously.


----------



## nategr8ns

^ agreed


----------



## Blitz6804

"I call hax"

"Pics or it didn't happen"

Any other web-based terms I can chuck out there? *Chuckles*


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I have to say, your results are a little confusing. Example 1 is running at 3006. Example 2 is running at 3016. The second CPU is faster, by 0.33%, and the RAM is slower, by 4.51%. Not to mention that in the second instance, the hyper transport is 24.75% slower!

You just have me baffled, seriously.


going to have to check the RAM. I believe that's correct,but when I get home I'll know for sure when I can look at it. I know I had set the RAM DDR548 and now I can't remember if I have that running or the DDR508.As far as the HT being 2x or 3x, I have yet to see a difference in performance using either. If I had it set to 3x then the HT link would well over 1000 and not stable at all. Right now it's above 700 at HT 2x

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


"I call hax"

"Pics or it didn't happen"

Any other web-based terms I can chuck out there? *Chuckles*



I wouldn't believe me either


----------



## pioneerisloud

I've got a a question since we're talking about RAM here:

If I ran another kit on my sig rig, such as my Hyper X 2x512 kit, would I see benefit from it? What I'm wondering is if I should run dual channel as follows:

2x1GB OCZ DDR500 (black slots)
2x512MB Kingston Hyper X DDR400 (blue slots)

That will still give me dual channel, and I think the Hyper X should still handle the 214MHz and tight timings that my DDR500 is at currently, I'll just be sacrificing 1T for 2T command rate. Any thoughts? Would it be better to just stick with 2 sticks, or should I go 4 sticks with 3GB of RAM?

I know 4GB of RAM would be "optimal", but I really wouldn't mind sticking another GB of RAM in there, I use quite a bit when folding, having my messengers open, firefox (for OCN), and gaming all at the same time. It would be nice to have a little RAM in reserve.

What do you guys think? Go for 3GB of RAM, or leave it alone at 2?


----------



## vwgti

Personally pioneer I wouldn't even try to mix ram, might open up a hole can of worms for stability. But hey prove me wrong and try it out see what happens







But I believe your current oc would be reduced using mixed ram.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vwgti* 
Personally pioneer I wouldn't even try to mix ram, might open up a hole can of worms for stability. But hey prove me wrong and try it out see what happens







But I believe your current oc would be reduced using mixed ram.

The ABSOLUTE WORST thing that would happen would be I'd have to use the 2:1 ratio which would put my RAM at 166MHz, but my timings would be so tight I don't feel the speed would matter. Again, it'd be forced to use 2T rate however. I do believe though that my ratio SHOULDN'T need to be adjusted. It'd just be the 1T would be moved to 2T....and that should be it.

EDIT:
I made a poll for this question here if anyone wants to check it out and vote in there, and express their opinions







.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vwgti* 
Personally pioneer I wouldn't even try to mix ram, might open up a hole can of worms for stability. But hey prove me wrong and try it out see what happens







But I believe your current oc would be reduced using mixed ram.

I strongly agree. I use to have to sets of RAM and both with similar timings and both 2x512 kits. By themselves they worked great. I added them together only to lose my OC and stability. Just getting the rig to post properly was hard enough. Then trying to OC it was another ball of wax.

I did however get it stable and was able to OC from 2.2Ghz to 2.5Ghz on my old AMD64 3500 Venice. I had to reduce the RAM timings to get it to work right.

lesson learned. Don't mix RAM. Volts/Timings are different and a headache.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Ok here's an updated pic


----------



## txtmstrjoe

To quote one of my most favorite characters in fiction, Darth Vader:

*Impressive... MOST impressive.*


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


To quote one of my most favorite characters in fiction, Darth Vader:

*Impressive... MOST impressive.*










What about my RAM question? I think you may have skipped a few posts







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


What about my RAM question? I think you may have skipped a few posts







.


I heartily agree with the good advice G.O. and v-dub have already given you.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I heartily agree with the good advice G.O. and v-dub have already given you.










That's not helping, lol. See here's my problem:

I quite frequently see 80% and more of my current RAM being used when I'm multitasking. Sometimes as much as 95% of my RAM is being used...sometimes I even have more than one game open at a time. I wouldn't THINK that just adding another GB of RAM would hurt anything? After all, Froggy's rig is running unmatched sticks of RAM (4 512's) and her's overclocks fine. I dunno....just trying to figure out the best way to get a LITTLE bit more performance here.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


That's not helping, lol. See here's my problem:

I quite frequently see 80% and more of my current RAM being used when I'm multitasking. Sometimes as much as 95% of my RAM is being used...sometimes I even have more than one game open at a time. I wouldn't THINK that just adding another GB of RAM would hurt anything? After all, Froggy's rig is running unmatched sticks of RAM (4 512's) and her's overclocks fine. I dunno....just trying to figure out the best way to get a LITTLE bit more performance here.


Here's a question (and I'm not trying to be daft here): When "you" are multi-tasking, are you really doing more than one task at any one moment?







With so many things running simultaneously, of course your RAM usage is going to be high, but you yourself aren't really doing anything with more than one application at any given moment.

Unless, of course, your mind is better than mine is: Mine is definitely more adept at single-threaded applications, and I can only process one thing to best effect and efficiency at any one moment.









(As an aside, I don't know how you and blitz can keep up the chatter on the comm when we're racing...)


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Here's a question (and I'm not trying to be daft here): When "you" are multi-tasking, are you really doing more than one task at any one moment?







With so many things running simultaneously, of course your RAM usage is going to be high, but you yourself aren't really doing anything with more than one application at any given moment.

Unless, of course, your mind is better than mine is: Mine is definitely more adept at single-threaded applications, and I can only process one thing to best effect and efficiency at any one moment.









(As an aside, I don't know how you and blitz can keep up the chatter on the comm when we're racing...)



















Well you see, here's what happens:

I'll have my messengers running so people can get ahold of me.
Firefox will have OCN open (its ALWAYS up when I'm on my rig).
Music will be playing via Winamp.
Sometimes I'll have COD4 open and minimized so I'm in the map, so froggy can level up easily (cheating kinda, yeah).
Then I'll also be in my own game to play (Crysis, Race07, etc..).

Hence why I'm multitasking so heavily. This of course, brings up my question.

EDIT:
Not to mention just folding alone uses a good 1-1.2GB of RAM on its own. That's a big chunk right there.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


That's not helping, lol. See here's my problem:

I quite frequently see 80% and more of my current RAM being used when I'm multitasking. Sometimes as much as 95% of my RAM is being used...sometimes I even have more than one game open at a time. I wouldn't THINK that just adding another GB of RAM would hurt anything? After all, Froggy's rig is running unmatched sticks of RAM (4 512's) and her's overclocks fine. I dunno....just trying to figure out the best way to get a LITTLE bit more performance here.


welp I see the problem

YOUR DOING MUCH STUFF AT ONE TIME!!!!!!!!!!!!!11111









I'm just guessing thou


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Well you see, here's what happens:

I'll have my messengers running so people can get ahold of me.
Firefox will have OCN open (its ALWAYS up when I'm on my rig).
Music will be playing via Winamp.
Sometimes I'll have COD4 open and minimized so I'm in the map, so froggy can level up easily (cheating kinda, yeah).
Then I'll also be in my own game to play (Crysis, Race07, etc..).

Hence why I'm multitasking so heavily. This of course, brings up my question.

EDIT:
Not to mention just folding alone uses a good 1-1.2GB of RAM on its own. That's a big chunk right there.


I see... lots of apps open simultaneously, so that they can all be used at a moment's notice.









Well, then, theory is one thing, and reality another. The best way to cross the gulf between the two is, well, to test.









(Helpful, huh?)


----------



## pioneerisloud

Yeah not really, lol. It'll be a ROYAL PAIN to remove the Hyper X from its current home. That's the ONLY 2x512 kit that I have that I know for a fact will keep up with my DDR500 at these speeds. All the rest of my RAM is just value crap. I'd be able to do it, but with looser timings (3,3,3,8,2T most likely). I believe (just speculation of course) I should be able to stay really close to my 2,3,2,6,1T timings (probably just force it to 2T and I should be fine)....with the Hyper X of course.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Dang. I should have asked you for killer RAM a few months ago, I now realize...


----------



## Oscuro

...Pioneer....I don't know how you can multitask like that....
Seriously, when I game, I shut everything off in the background because I loathe and despise interruptions.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Oscuro*


...Pioneer....I don't know how you can multitask like that....
Seriously, when I game, I shut everything off in the background because I loathe and despise interruptions.










Ah, Oscuro, a kindred spirit, you are.









BTW, if ever any more Club S939ers find their way into a race in Race 07 with me, pioneer, and blitz, make sure you're able to focus past their interminable chatter on the comm.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well you know, I have to pull my HTPC rig apart anyway it seems. I have a feeling the 250w Dell PSU that's in there isn't powerful enough for its FX5950 Ultra...hence my random shut downs on it. So I think while I'm at it, I'll downgrade it to a simple 512 stick of some ValueCrap RAM, and pull the Hyper X out and test with it in my rig. Might as well while I've got it apart right? And since its a Socket A, I'm sure 512MB ought to be enough for it.


----------



## GuardianOdin

I wish I could find a pair of the Ultra XL DDR400 2Gb Kit

Man that was some sweet RAM....I'll never know why I traded it....Oh wait I know why. I was a noob with Computers at the time

EDIT: perfect review of what the Ultra XL's could do sniff sniff I miss my RAM


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


I wish I could find a pair of the *Ultra XL DDR400 2Gb Kit*

Man that was some sweet RAM....I'll never know why I traded it....Oh wait I know why. I was a noob with Computers at the time


From TigerDirect?

Do you happen to know what kind of ICs were on those? (I suspect Samsung TCCDs...)


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


From TigerDirect?

Do you happen to know what kind of ICs were on those? (I suspect Samsung TCCDs...)


yep,tigerdirect is were I got them. Sadley they stopped offering them about a year ago now.

I believe they were TCCDs. I had no issues running them at DDR560 speeds


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


yep,tigerdirect is were I got them. Sadley they stopped offering them about a year ago now.

I believe they were TCCDs. I had no issues running them at DDR560 speeds


We needs to builds a time machine and admonish your younger self from selling those TCCDs!

I've got a couple of decommissioned motherboards and CPUs to start with. Anybody got toothpicks, chewing gum, and a spare flux capacitor to donate?


----------



## thlnk3r

GuardianOdin, in regards to post 3187...awesome OC! I love the HTT


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


We needs to builds a time machine and admonish your younger self from selling those TCCDs!

I've got a couple of decommissioned motherboards and CPUs to start with. Anybody got toothpicks, chewing gum, and a spare flux capacitor to donate?


It just happens I have a socket754 flux compacitor in the closet









Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


GuardianOdin, in regards to post 3187...awesome OC! I love the HTT










Thanks thlnk3r, I'm working on keeping it stable now.I get 3-4 minutes into Orthos and OCCT and it crashes. If I use the 9 multiper and an HTT of 334 I'm stable again....same 3016 on both but HTT 377 doesn't want to stay stable. I may have to mess with the Volts and RAM timings a bit.


----------



## thlnk3r

So like when is our next contest


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


So like when is our next contest










I'm working on it.I can't say to much right now. Hush hush stuff









*Edit:* Downloading Demo for Race07


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


So like when is our next contest




















Maybe we ought to have a straight-up OCing showdown here at the S939 Corral.









Highest CPU Frequency on Air Cooling?

Highest CPU Frequency on "Exotic" (non-Air) Cooling?

Suggestions, youngsters?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*











Maybe we ought to have a straight-up OCing showdown here at the S939 Corral.









Highest CPU Frequency on Air Cooling?

Highest CPU Frequency on "Exotic" (non-Air) Cooling?

Suggestions, youngsters?










....need to buy an air conditioner. Drop my case temp down to 13c


----------



## txtmstrjoe

G.O., can you buy me an A.C. too?

Especially since SoCal is fixing to have high temps again by this time next week.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


G.O., can you buy me an A.C. too?

Especially since SoCal is fixing to have high temps again by this time next week.










gonna have to take a loan out from the bank....just for gas!









I think the local home depot has a fairly small AC unit for cheap. Going to see if I can find it. I'll post later on if I do. Bed time for me now. Same Bat time Same Bat channel.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


gonna have to take a loan out from the bank....just for gas!









I think the local home depot has a fairly small AC unit for cheap. Going to see if I can find it. I'll post later on if I do. Bed time for me now. Same Bat time Same Bat channel.


A'ight, bro!

TTYS.


----------



## GuardianOdin

I'll leave this question for the night. Opinions on this cooler. Ultra Chill-TEC Peltier Cooler


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


I'll leave this question for the night. Opinions on this cooler. Ultra Chill-TEC Peltier Cooler


I'd try it, but am too po' to buy it.


----------



## iandroo888

u think its getting too hot in so cal? its worse here. u at least have chilly oceanside weather.. its just an oven night and day here >=[


----------



## pioneerisloud

Alright so my 3GB of RAM idea FAILED MISERABLY!

I tried it with my current settings (200MHz 2,3,2,6,2T (instead of 1T))...that was a no go. I tried 166MHz with the same timings, BSOD CENTRAL!

I let it auto set, it set it to 166MHz 3,3,3,8,2T!!!! I double checked with CPUz to see what the stock timings were for the Hyper X, and they were as follows:

200MHz - 2.5,3,3,8,2T
166MHz - 2.5,3,3,7,2T

Those timings are NOT tight enough for me to even CONSIDER adding them in with my DDR500.

So txtmstrjoe....you were right







. It didn't work the way I had hoped







. I was hoping with 3GB of RAM, I could turn my page file off, and have an overall faster performing PC...but that wasn't the case







.


----------



## nategr8ns

^ you post at 3-o-clock in the morning?!?

What speeds where the ram actually running at? That would explain the timings...
I don't think you actually got a perfect 200MHz, and a perfect 166, did you?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
^ you post at 3-o-clock in the morning?!?

What speeds where the ram actually running at? That would explain the timings...
I don't think you actually got a perfect 200MHz, and a perfect 166, did you?

Yes I did.

333HT Clock with the 133 divider = 200.1MHz RAM
333HT Clock with the 100 divider = 166.7MHz RAM


----------



## nategr8ns

woah, ok


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


u think its getting too hot in so cal? its worse here. u at least have chilly oceanside weather.. its just an oven night and day here >=[


You are in a dessert; does not the heat dissipate at night?

Here it is 16Âº C in the day, 3Âº C at night.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


You are in a dessert; does not the heat dissipate at night?

Here it is 16Âº C in the day, 3Âº C at night.


I'd have to agree. Yakima, WA is also in a "desert" climate, and it gets pretty darn cold during the night time, but during the days it can get quite hot.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Alright so my 3GB of RAM idea FAILED MISERABLY!

I tried it with my current settings (200MHz 2,3,2,6,2T (instead of 1T))...that was a no go. I tried 166MHz with the same timings, BSOD CENTRAL!

I let it auto set, it set it to 166MHz 3,3,3,8,2T!!!! I double checked with CPUz to see what the stock timings were for the Hyper X, and they were as follows:

200MHz - 2.5,3,3,8,2T
166MHz - 2.5,3,3,7,2T

Those timings are NOT tight enough for me to even CONSIDER adding them in with my DDR500.

So txtmstrjoe....you were right







. It didn't work the way I had hoped







. I was hoping with 3GB of RAM, I could turn my page file off, and have an overall faster performing PC...but that wasn't the case







.


Well, at least now you *know* for sure what can happen.







I give thee a cookie for testing things out.









I have a feeling, though, that the experiment might have turned out a little different had overclocking not been done at all. It's *possible* (but only theoretically) that your two mismatched matched pairs (hehe) could co-exist. But that's just purely theory.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Well, at least now you *know* for sure what can happen.







I give thee a cookie for testing things out.









I have a feeling, though, that the experiment might have turned out a little different had overclocking not been done at all. It's *possible* (but only theoretically) that your two mismatched matched pairs (hehe) could co-exist. But that's just purely theory.


Well it would have been possible given I would have been willing to run them at their stock timings (2.5,3,3,7,2T) for 166MHz. I'm sure that would've worked just fine. However those timings are absolutely HORRIBLE...my Corsair ValueCrap has better stock timings than those Hyper X's have!! Honestly, I PROBABLY could pull this off with my Corsair ValueCrap. Its just not worth it to me now though after seeing that happen. I'll just be happy with what I'm running for now.


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


...Corsair ValueCrap ...


Hey stop making fun of my hand-me-down ram...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *froggy1986*


Hey stop making fun of my hand-me-down ram...










I'm not making fun of it







. Actually if you take notice, I say that its better than this more expensive Kingston Hyper X. Here's some timings for you to take a look at







.

Corsair ValueCrap (your "Hand me down RAM")
200MHz - 2.5,3,3,8,2T (is stable at 2.5,3,3,7,1T)
166MHz - 2.0,2,2,6,2T (is stable at 2.0,2,2,6,1T)

Kingston Hyper X (more expensive and pretty blue)
200MHz - 3,4,4,8,2T (is stable at that only)
166MHz - 2.5,3,3,8,2T (is stable at that only)

Now you see...your Corsair Value"Crap" really isn't that bad of RAM at all. It just doesn't compare to the BETTER higher end sticks. These Hyper X's are an absolute JOKE. I'm going to put them back in a Socket A rig...where the timings don't matter







.


----------



## boonie2

Just downloaded the RACE07 demo , keyboard is a pain to use







{alittle practice is what you need ..................yes} you guyz would run me down the whole game hahaha ..... Oh just bought another opty 170 CCBBE 0615 ... any opinions which stepping is better? the sig or this 1? have to make it to 3.0 stable .... im possessed














.... 1 more question....{I swear} want to get the preminum board , would i have to reinstall vista even tho its the same chipset? {fingers crossed} or is it kinda hit and miss?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


Just downloaded the RACE07 demo , keyboard is a pain to use







{alittle practice is what you need ..................yes} you guyz would run me down the whole game hahaha ..... Oh just bought another opty 170 CCBBE 0615 ... any opinions which stepping is better? the sig or this 1? have to make it to 3.0 stable .... im possessed

















The CCBBE might be a better stepping (they're known to hit that magic 3.0). Myself and txtmstrjoe have been pondering the LCB9E as well. It seems that TYPICALLY they're not as good as their LCBQE brothers (such as mine and thlnk3r's chips). The CCBBE's seem to have already had their run and proven themselves time and time again.

I say slap it in there and try it out. See how she does for ya







.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


The CCBBE might be a better stepping (they're known to hit that magic 3.0). Myself and txtmstrjoe have been pondering the LCB9E as well. It seems that TYPICALLY they're not as good as their LCBQE brothers (such as mine and thlnk3r's chips). The CCBBE's seem to have already had their run and proven themselves time and time again.

I say slap it in there and try it out. See how she does for ya







.


----------



## Blitz6804

Depends on the Vista question. Is your Vista retail, or OEM? If OEM, you may not legally use it on the premium version of the motherboard. If retail, you are both legally permitted to use it, and in theory, should be able to use it without a reinstall. I would reinstall anyway, but that is just me.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Depends on the Vista question. Is your Vista retail, or OEM? If OEM, you may not legally use it on the premium version of the motherboard. If retail, you are both legally permitted to use it, and in theory, should be able to use it without a reinstall. I would reinstall anyway, but that is just me.

Its a retail upgrade from xp professional , thanks blitz


----------



## Blitz6804

And the XP Pro was also retail I hope?


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
And the XP Pro was also retail I hope?

Yep both are retail versions


----------



## boonie2

have a chance to buy the a8n32 sli board and 2-1gb Corsair twinx xms 2-3-2-6 for a really nice price {both brand new} from a computer shop here ......bless you TAX REFUND GOD







ok ill shut up now


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
have a chance to buy the a8n32 sli board and 2-1gb Corsair twinx xms 2-3-2-6 for a really nice price {both brand new} from a computer shop here ......bless you TAX REFUND GOD







ok ill shut up now

I hate you! No seriously though, that's a killer board (I know, I have one







), and you can't go wrong with those timings on that RAM!


----------



## GuardianOdin

*Woot! Level Up!*


----------



## pioneerisloud

I've just ran some INTERESTING TESTS on Froggy's rig.

Just out of curiousity, I installed my OCZ DDR500 into her rig. Here's what Everest had to show (memory benchmark):

250HT Clock, 200 divider = RAM @ 250MHz - 7222MB/s read times
200HT Clock, 250 divider = RAM @ 250MHz - 6414MB/s read times
300HT Clock, 166 divider = RAM @ 250MHz - *7436MB/s read times*

So it APPEARS that either the CPU speed is affecting these benchmarks, even though its only the memory bench. Or the dividers really do have an effect on our bandwidths. I'm not for sure...but all of those tests were with the default 10x multiplier.

Just some food for thought.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
*Woot! Level Up!*
































good catch


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 





















good catch

That's what I'm here for


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, the forum is now back up. They undid my "Wide View" skin (fixed) and appears to have added a Tag feature.


----------



## pioneerisloud

They also seemed to have implemented a new "friends" feature. I added everyone that I see regularly around the forums including the regulars here....so expect some friend requests people







.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I added tags to our wonderful thread







. Can you guess which two are mine? This is kinda fun! I think I may do this to more threads.


----------



## GuardianOdin

I wanna be a Club Officer. Whats I gotta does? <----Blitz....do not let this evilest of evil spellings go unpunished









But really I would like a higher role amongst us 939'ers.


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


I wish I could find a pair of the Ultra XL DDR400 2Gb Kit

Man that was some sweet RAM....I'll never know why I traded it....Oh wait I know why. I was a noob with Computers at the time

EDIT: perfect review of what the Ultra XL's could do sniff sniff I miss my RAM


Ultra was that good huh? I never would've thought it. I always thought they used low binned ic's. What kind of clocks did you get with them?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Iceman0803*


Ultra was that good huh? I never would've thought it. I always thought they used low binned ic's. What kind of clocks did you get with them?


The absolute highest I was able to get them was DDR540-DDR550 can't remember exactly. But that wasn't the best part about them. You could run a CAS of 2.5 on T1 up to DDR500 after that you had to use CAS 3 but still on T1


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
The absolute highest I was able to get them was DDR540-DDR550 can't remember exactly. But that wasn't the best part about them. You could run a CAS of 2.5 on T1 up to DDR500 after that you had to use CAS 3 but still on T1

Wow that's pretty good! That's on par with a Balistix 1GB kit I have. I got them to run at DDR 540 with 2.5-3-3-8 timings @1T.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I've just ran some INTERESTING TESTS on Froggy's rig.

Just out of curiousity, I installed my OCZ DDR500 into her rig. Here's what Everest had to show (memory benchmark):

250HT Clock, 200 divider = RAM @ 250MHz - 7222MB/s read times
200HT Clock, 250 divider = RAM @ 250MHz - 6414MB/s read times
300HT Clock, 166 divider = RAM @ 250MHz - *7436MB/s read times*

So it APPEARS that either the CPU speed is affecting these benchmarks, even though its only the memory bench. Or the dividers really do have an effect on our bandwidths. I'm not for sure...but all of those tests were with the default 10x multiplier.

Just some food for thought.

Thats very interesting... What was your HT multiplier and speed? or did you not keep track of that


----------



## Blitz6804

I would never have guessed Pioneer. (-_-)

I think, in all fairness, I got the two most obvious ones. The thread starter has the ability to make 5 tags, the rest of us only 2.

For those who are oblivious to dates, make sure you wish your mothers a happy Mothers' Day.

For everyone else, I will be spending today (my birthday) the worst way I know how:

Alone, and sober. (;_









Oh, and GuardianOdin: *waves a ten-foot pole.*


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I would never have guessed Pioneer. (-_-)

I think, in all fairness, I got the two most obvious ones. The thread starter has the ability to make 5 tags, the rest of us only 2.

For those who are oblivious to dates, make sure you wish your mothers a happy Mothers' Day.

For everyone else, I will be spending today (my birthday) the worst way I know how:

Alone, and sober. (;_









Oh, and GuardianOdin: *waves a ten-foot pole.*










HAPPY BIRTHDAY BLITZ


----------



## MikeV_E36

Hey blitz! Is your birthday man? Happy birthday! I saw in the roster a member that has a Manchester like mine @3ghz. Anybody knows what voltage this member is running?? I want moreeeeee hehehehhe


----------



## Blitz6804

I do not MikeV_E36. You would need to ask PROBN4LYFE.

His Manchester (as submitted) was 288 x 10.5 (3024 MHz) on air cooling, and as such, was most impressive.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Yeah 3ghz is quite impressive and I would like to give it a shot but I don't know how safe it is to go more than 1.4v... Is there any possibility that PROBN4LYFE's system is not stable and just booted to get the screen validation?


----------



## Blitz6804

I always heard that the "safe" limit for air is 1.6 V, the "safe" limit for water cooling is 1.7 V. I do not know if I believe that, which is why I always run stock whenever possible.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Happy birthday to Sub-Zero!

G.O., I'll talk to thlnk3r about that issue you raised (several posts up). I've got an idea for inter-club participation that kinda dovetails into your request.









pio, your findings are interesting in that they kind of go into my postponed tests on the RAM.

Regarding steppings: See thlnk3r's sig for my thoughts on steppings.









Okay. To the DMV I go! (The CA DMV website, that is. Gotta register my V6 Probe GT for another year!







)


----------



## Blitz6804

For the lazy, see here:

http://www.overclock.net/3339666-post27.html


----------



## pioneerisloud

Hey everyone, I found out we now have "Social Groups" here at OCN. So I made one for our little club. Join here.


----------



## boonie2

picked up a a8n32 sli board to replace my sig board , sig board MAY be for sale later on w/2gb ocz and an opty 170 .. busy , busy , busy on ebay


----------



## pioneerisloud

Hey...my "boob" tag is gone!

Anyway, boonie2:
Can't wait to see your progress with your new setup. Should prove to be a pretty great setup, if you get a nice lucky chip (such as myself and thlnk3r have).

Now this may just be my board, it might be all A8N32-SLI's, but I'd personally steer clear of the RAM you have in your sig with that board. My sig rig RAM, I notoriously CANNOT get it to pass 215-220MHz stable, and it won't even boot to Windows (easily) past 233MHz. If you're going for some high end RAM....I'd go for something besides OCZ's offerings. But that's just me with my own experience.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Hey...my "boob" tag is gone!

Anyway, boonie2:
Can't wait to see your progress with your new setup. Should prove to be a pretty great setup, if you get a nice lucky chip (such as myself and thlnk3r have).

Now this may just be my board, it might be all A8N32-SLI's, but I'd personally steer clear of the RAM you have in your sig with that board. My sig rig RAM, I notoriously CANNOT get it to pass 215-220MHz stable, and it won't even boot to Windows (easily) past 233MHz. If you're going for some high end RAM....I'd go for something besides OCZ's offerings. But that's just me with my own experience.


Thanks , looking forward to it too. just wanted to give my fellow 939ers a heads up in case it goes up for sale , the new chip is a CCBBE 615 , Thanks for the ram tip ill have to check that out , my rams having the same problem too I think max was 225 {shakey} have a bid on some hyperx too but we will see how that goes .


----------



## nategr8ns

I just joined the fan club








Who broke the "boob" tag?


----------



## Raziel

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
Thanks , looking forward to it too. just wanted to give my fellow 939ers a heads up in case it goes up for sale , the new chip is a CCBBE 615 , Thanks for the ram tip ill have to check that out , my rams having the same problem too I think max was 225 {shakey} have a bid on some hyperx too but we will see how that goes .









I have the same board, just no SLI. I would strongly recommend sticking with Corsair RAM. I know that other will work, but that's what I've been running (it's in my sig) and it's great. If you want faster ram, then just go that route, but stick with the Corsair.

I know, opinions are like buttholes, and everyone has at least one... and I just showed mine!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


my rams having the same problem too I think max was 225 {shakey} have a bid on some hyperx too but we will see how that goes .










Boonie, 225mhz isn't bad. My G.Skill set topped out at 244mhz with my processor at stock speeds. Any overclock is better than no overclock









Blitz happy late birthday


----------



## GuardianOdin

oops,happy birthday Blitz!


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


oops,happy birthday Blitz!


I knew I forgot something







. Sorry man, happy belated bday


----------



## pioneerisloud

I CANNOT BELIEVE NOBODY TOLD ME IT WAS SUB-ZERO'S BIRTHDAY!

Happy belated birthday man!


----------



## thlnk3r

Wait...is it Blitz's Birthday or did I misread a post? lol


----------



## froggy1986

If I remember right he said it was yesterday.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

It WAS Sub-Zero's birthday yesterday. And he suckered me into getting him a birthday present.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


And he suckered me into getting him a birthday present.










*takes note of that*


----------



## pioneerisloud

I've got HORRIBLE news guys







(well for me at least). I traded my old 7600GT, for a nice $100 Antec Case. Well, the case was stolen from me right off my porch on Wednesday! The mailman knocked on the door, nobody was home (I didn't hear a knock, I was here and awake)....so he left it on the patio / porch. And well, it was never there. I'm investigating this now....but that really sucks. Just another thing to add to my bad luck. $100 case, just gone...out of nowhere.


----------



## ILOVEPOTtery

I have an X2 3800+ LCBQE lying around collecting dust, anybody interested in it?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I've got HORRIBLE news guys







(well for me at least). I traded my old 7600GT, for a nice $100 Antec Case. Well, the case was stolen from me right off my porch on Wednesday! The mailman knocked on the door, nobody was home (I didn't hear a knock, I was here and awake)....so he left it on the patio / porch. And well, it was never there. I'm investigating this now....but that really sucks. Just another thing to add to my bad luck. $100 case, just gone...out of nowhere.


Pio, are you sure it was stolen or did the post office just hold on to it? Was there insurance on the package?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pio, are you sure it was stolen or did the post office just hold on to it? Was there insurance on the package?


Yes sir, I'm positive it was stolen. I went to the post office to investigate, the mailman said that he knocked on the door, and left it there. It was NOT at the post office







. And nope, no insurance on the package. The shipper had never seen a lost package before. He shipped it "Media Mail" with no insurance....it was cheaper.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Yes sir, I'm positive it was stolen. I went to the post office to investigate, the mailman said that he knocked on the door, and left it there. It was NOT at the post office







. And nope, no insurance on the package. The shipper had never seen a lost package before. He shipped it "Media Mail" with no insurance....it was cheaper.


Pioneer, arg that stinks....


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ILOVEPOTtery*


I have an X2 3800+ LCBQE lying around collecting dust, anybody interested in it?


I would be, but somebody would just steal it off my porch


----------



## boonie2

Wait a second , doesnt the post office have a policy NOT to leave packages , if they get no answer . i know our post office is supposed to leave a notice that they attempted delivery but no one was home , then they leave a card for you to pick it up at the P.O. Time for some "Sherlock Holmes" action Id say..Good luck


----------



## alexgheseger

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
Wait a second , doesnt the post office have a policy NOT to leave packages , if they get no answer . i know our post office is supposed to leave a notice that they attempted delivery but no one was home , then they leave a card for you to pick it up at the P.O. Time for some "Sherlock Holmes" action Id say..Good luck









Indeed. Go to the Post office and crack some heads








You never know, things might work out for the better.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
Wait a second , doesnt the post office have a policy NOT to leave packages , if they get no answer . i know our post office is supposed to leave a notice that they attempted delivery but no one was home , then they leave a card for you to pick it up at the P.O. Time for some "Sherlock Holmes" action Id say..Good luck









you have to ask them for "signature confirmation" or something. It costs more.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexgheseger* 
Indeed. Go to the Post office and crack some heads








You never know, things might work out for the better.

I'd have a fit in the Post Office. Go nuts!


----------



## ILOVEPOTtery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


you have to ask them for "signature confirmation" or something. It costs more.


~ $.70. I include it with all my forum tradings.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Yes sir, I'm positive it was stolen. I went to the post office to investigate, the mailman said that he knocked on the door, and left it there. It was NOT at the post office







. And nope, no insurance on the package. The shipper had never seen a lost package before. He shipped it "Media Mail" with no insurance....it was cheaper.


Tell your shipper "way to defraud the government."

Media mail is only for media (such as books or CDs) and non-media items are subject to inspection and confiscation if they are not media.

In other news, I just installed 2 GBs of my Redline. So far, I am not having problems. For fun, I raised it to 1:1 (which I wont be able to keep once I get the other 2 GB) and it was running DDR 500 with 7800 MBps bandwidth!

Back down to DDR 393, I am reading 5800 MBps (slightly more than my Corsairs) but at lower latencies. Right now, I have 3-3-2-8-2T-11-17. I have to tighten that up I think, but I know not where the latencies can go.

(This is being cross-posted in my thread so I do not end up with an ugly post number.)


----------



## prosser13

Mmmm...

I may be joining you guys!









My first rig was a Socket 939 3000+ with an Abit AX8 and 1GB of TwinMOS generic RAM.

Over time it evolved...

3700+ (two of them in fact)
X2 3800+ 
2GB G.Skill HZ DDR500
DFI RDX200CF-DR

Man, I loved my 939 stuff. The DFI board was buggy as hell but it was the kit which got me into overclocking









Anyway, I came across 1GB (2x512MB) of DDR600 at a completely bargain price - Â£15 delivered with an intact warranty! I couldn't pass it up; it was the stuff which I had always wanted when I had that kit, and so I bought it







I've just agreed a deal on a DFI SLI-D, and I've been hunting around for a good clocking 3700+









The rig will make a heavily overclocked file server/testing rig, as I've already got my main rig here and a HTPC planned (both Core2Duos). So, if your selling up a 3700+, let me know. I'm after a great clocker as it'll be put under DiCE so I'm hoping for some crazy clocks for HWBOT, and combined with my DDR600 I should get some good SuperPi runs.

Over and out


----------



## Blitz6804

I am selling my 3700+ San Diego:

ADA3700DAA5BN
KAB2E 0547DPFW
1369189L50609

I used it from 01/11/2006 until approximately May, 2007. It was ran at 2211 MHz its entire career because of a fault of Gigabyte motherboard: 200 MHz BIOS = 201 MHz Operating system. I still have the original packaging, bundled heat sink, and instruction manual / certificate of authenticity. It was never lapped, and only seated once. I do not know how it clocks since I never tried.

Congrats on finding DDR600. Iandroo888 will be jealous.

To join, all you need is a CPU-Z validation link or a picture of your CPU-Z program.


----------



## prosser13

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I am selling my 3700+ San Diego:

ADA3700DAA5BN
KAB2E 0547DPFW
1369189L50609


Could you give me a PM with a price not including shipping?









Quote:



Congrats on finding DDR600. Iandroo888 will be jealous.


Must admit to it being the find of my Internet life









Quote:



To join, all you need is a CPU-Z validation link or a picture of your CPU-Z program.


Thanks! I'll see if I can dig up some of my old ones from my 3000+ and 3700+


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


In other news, I just installed 2 GBs of my Redline. So far, I am not having problems. For fun, I raised it to 1:1 (which I wont be able to keep once I get the other 2 GB) and it was running DDR 500 with 7800 MBps bandwidth!

Back down to DDR 393, I am reading 5800 MBps (slightly more than my Corsairs) but at lower latencies. Right now, I have 3-3-2-8-2T-11-17. I have to tighten that up I think, but I know not where the latencies can go.

(This is being cross-posted in my thread so I do not end up with an ugly post number.)


Here's a bit of a heads-up for that killer Mushkin Redline kit: Unless you have a very comprehensive BIOS (and, mind you, the A8N32-SLI Deluxe's BIOS is NOT as comprehensive as is needed for the point I'm about to make), you will likely have instability in 3D applications at speeds upwards of DDR550-560. It's a quirk of the Infineon BE-5/6 / CE-5/6 ICs in the RAM. You need to have certain RAM "sub-timing" settings available in your BIOS to be able to get above DDR550-560.

vwgti has a modded BIOS for his A8N32-SLI Deluxe, which explains why he's able to use a smaller RAM divider and run his Redlines at a higher speed than mine (my set can run 1:1 with the HTT clock up to 280MHz -- DDR560) and be completely stable with Orthos Blend/OCCT at high priority. I have to slap a divider on mine so that I can retain 3D stability (games, 3DMark06/05, etc.) and be able to USE my machine with complete (S&M) stability.

This hang-up aside, though, it's a brilliant 2GB RAM kit.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I've got HORRIBLE news guys







(well for me at least). I traded my old 7600GT, for a nice $100 Antec Case. Well, the case was stolen from me right off my porch on Wednesday! The mailman knocked on the door, nobody was home (I didn't hear a knock, I was here and awake)....so he left it on the patio / porch. And well, it was never there. I'm investigating this now....but that really sucks. Just another thing to add to my bad luck. $100 case, just gone...out of nowhere.


OUCH. Sorry to hear about your misfortune, pio.







Karma will get the thief back, though.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


you have to ask them for "signature confirmation" or something. It costs more.


signature confirmation is for DELIVERY , THEY JUST SET THE PACKAGE OUTSIDE HIS DOOR AND LEFT IT THERE .. thats b/s , theyre not supposed to do that .. what is it was a really expensive item? say afew thousand dollars or something? they have no idea what was in the box .. thats pretty irresponsible on their part id say ... id be down there complaining for sure


----------



## nategr8ns

^ I know, the shipper has to pay an extra fee for signiture confirmation. It costs an extra ~3.50 USD to get it from EVGA step up







. The fee usually passes to the buyer as extra shipping charges though.

Prosser, great news on the ddr600! Thats amazing!!!

Side note: I have a question about PSUs, should I ask it here or post a new thread in the PSU section?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

You can ask here, if you want.









We have some guys with expertise with PSUs (I'm looking at you, thlnk3r!).


----------



## boonie2

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm?







got back from dinner , turned on the computer and noticed rivatuner isnt detecting the clock speeds of my GPU ... tried atitool also no clock speed detection now ... any ideas why? wow just downloaded GPUZ and it wont detect clock speeds either ...... HELP


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Here's a bit of a heads-up for that killer Mushkin Redline kit: Unless you have a very comprehensive BIOS (and, mind you, the A8N32-SLI Deluxe's BIOS is NOT as comprehensive as is needed for the point I'm about to make), you will likely have instability in 3D applications at speeds upwards of DDR550-560. It's a quirk of the Infineon BE-5/6 / CE-5/6 ICs in the RAM. You need to have certain RAM "sub-timing" settings available in your BIOS to be able to get above DDR550-560.

vwgti has a modded BIOS for his A8N32-SLI Deluxe, which explains why he's able to use a smaller RAM divider and run his Redlines at a higher speed than mine (my set can run 1:1 with the HTT clock up to 280MHz -- DDR560) and be completely stable with Orthos Blend/OCCT at high priority. I have to slap a divider on mine so that I can retain 3D stability (games, 3DMark06/05, etc.) and be able to USE my machine with complete (S&M) stability.

This hang-up aside, though, it's a brilliant 2GB RAM kit.









This reminds me, I have to adjust the sub-timings on my RAM. I had to set them to auto when I adjusted the HTT to 377.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


This reminds me, I have to adjust the sub-timings on my RAM. I had to set them to auto when I adjusted the HTT to 377.












boonie: Any solutions present themselves to your issue?

Anyone have any answers for boonie's case?


----------



## boonie2

not sure yet , im getting an "unknown device" driver alert on startup now that vista cant seem to find drivers for...possible kernal mode driver , thats the error that comes up when i launch atitool "kernal mode driver does not seem to be running" a device driver is required for communication with your video hardware ? thats alittle over my head .







any sugestions?


----------



## -iceblade^

Add me into this prestigious place, please


----------



## AmongthechosenX

I have an Opteron 146 OC'd to 2.9 ghz with a Hyper TX 2 Cooler and some Value RAM. what can i do to get into the database?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


not sure yet , im getting an "unknown device" driver alert on startup now that vista cant seem to find drivers for...possible kernal mode driver , thats the error that comes up when i launch atitool "kernal mode driver does not seem to be running" a device driver is required for communication with your video hardware ? thats alittle over my head .







any sugestions?


Boonie, sounds like the OC finally failed on the video card. Do you have another machine that you could test the video card in? Have you tried completely uninstalling all of the display drivers and reinstalling? That's not good when the device manager starts to display "unknown device" after you've had the video card installed for a while. I hope the card didn't go south on you.

Let us know

Good luck


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Boonie, sounds like the OC finally failed on the video card. Do you have another machine that you could test the video card in? Have you tried completely uninstalling all of the display drivers and reinstalling? That's not good when the device manager starts to display "unknown device" after you've had the video card installed for a while. I hope the card didn't go south on you.

Let us know

Good luck










no , thats the thing , the card was NEVER overclocked , I just put it back in yesterday afternoon , i used rivatuner only for fan speed and resolution ..didnt get around to overclocking it..works fine just the way it is {its working right now as a matter of fact}


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AmongthechosenX*


I have an Opteron 146 OC'd to 2.9 ghz with a Hyper TX 2 Cooler and some Value RAM. what can i do to get into the database?


It's very easy to be added to our roster: You can either post your CPU-Z validation link of your S939 system, or you can post a screenshot of the same in this thread (as -iceblade^ did). Finally, you can PM thlnk3r, pioneerisloud, or me (txtmstrjoe) with your CPU-Z validation link (no screenshots in PMs, please).

We'd love to have you!

By the way, welcome, -iceblade^!


----------



## Raziel

Is anyone here good with wiring inside a PC? I have "aquired" some high-velocity fans for use in my PC and I can't figure out how i want to wire them. They are from specific servers, so i can answer as many questions as i have information from... but any help is greatly appreciated.

I want to take the 40mm fans that I aquired, and replace the 120mm 5blade fan on my heatsink with the 40mm fans (2 x 2 configuration). I know the fans are 12 volt fans, and I know that they draw 1.1a EACH. The wiring from the fans are as follows:

Red/white, Red, Blue/white, Blue, Black/white, Black

I'm not sure if the blue set is the RPM reading, or if it's a variable control for the fans. The fans came from a Dell PowerEdge 1850. I also have a set from a PowerEdge 1650, but not as large. Already figured out the power and ground there, but have the same blue wire questions for THOSE fans as well.

Figure that I'll see what that does for temps because it's much more airflow than the 5 blade 120mm that I presently have.

Thank you all for your assistance.

Joe


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


no , thats the thing , the card was NEVER overclocked , I just put it back in yesterday afternoon , i used rivatuner only for fan speed and resolution ..didnt get around to overclocking it..works fine just the way it is {its working right now as a matter of fact}


Boonie, are you able to check the temps on the card at this moment?

Glad it's working. Have you ran stability test on your overclock to make sure that wasn't causing the card to fail? Perhaps maybe the PCI-E bus failed or is failing.

Good luck


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Boonie, are you able to check the temps on the card at this moment?

Glad it's working. Have you ran stability test on your overclock to make sure that wasn't causing the card to fail? Perhaps maybe the PCI-E bus failed or is failing.

Good luck










yep temps are fine 45c loaded is around 55c / the card was NEVER overclocked , my issue was that rivatuner wasnt seeing any clock speeds at all to even attempt an O/C so i tried atitool thats where i got the kernel driver not running unable to communicate with video device error...but the card is working fine ..I guess my question is , how can I get the kernal driver to run so my stock clock speeds are seen in rivatuner and atitool if i want to overclock it..........yeah im bewildered.....as a side note..going to have alot of my sig rig up for sale next week when all my ebay items arrive still keepin it 939







might seem foolish but i like the 939s


----------



## thlnk3r

Boonie, what version of ATITool are you trying? I'm not sure if version 0.26 is supported under the 8800GT. Did you try the beta version 0.27?

Good luck


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Boonie, what version of ATITool are you trying? I'm not sure if version 0.26 is supported under the 8800GT. Did you try the beta version 0.27?

Good luck


I dunno...I'm running 0.26 ATI Tool on my sig rig. Works fine. I can't overclock with it, but I can stress with it (which is all I want it for anyway).

RivaTuner v2.08 and ATI Tool 0.26 work very well together, even in Vista.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Boonie, what version of ATITool are you trying? I'm not sure if version 0.26 is supported under the 8800GT. Did you try the beta version 0.27?

Good luck


running the 0.27 beta {trying} just that neither atitool or rivatuner can see my clock speeds at all , gonna try uninstall the drivers , run driver cleaner , R/REPL> the card see what happens


----------



## GuardianOdin

Nvidia precision tool seems to be holding my overclock just fine. No lock ups or driver issues like with ATI tool.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Nvidia precision tool seems to be holding my overclock just fine. No lock ups or driver issues like with ATI tool.


gonna try that , thanks


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Raziel* 
Is anyone here good with wiring inside a PC? I have "aquired" some high-velocity fans for use in my PC and I can't figure out how i want to wire them. They are from specific servers, so i can answer as many questions as i have information from... but any help is greatly appreciated.

I want to take the 40mm fans that I aquired, and replace the 120mm 5blade fan on my heatsink with the 40mm fans (2 x 2 configuration). I know the fans are 12 volt fans, and I know that they draw 1.1a EACH. The wiring from the fans are as follows:

Red/white, Red, Blue/white, Blue, Black/white, Black

I'm not sure if the blue set is the RPM reading, or if it's a variable control for the fans. The fans came from a Dell PowerEdge 1850. I also have a set from a PowerEdge 1650, but not as large. Already figured out the power and ground there, but have the same blue wire questions for THOSE fans as well.

Figure that I'll see what that does for temps because it's much more airflow than the 5 blade 120mm that I presently have.

Thank you all for your assistance.

Joe

Wait, I'm a little unclear (love your name btw, Joe







): Do you just need to know what wire does what, or are you also trying to switch blade rotor assemblies?

If it's the latter, I'm not too sure if that would work as well as you're hoping, to be honest. At best you could have a blown fan motor; at worst, well... depending on where you plug that modified fan into, you may wreck a motherboard...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
gonna try that , thanks

Boonie, did the driver reinstallation solve your problems? Do you have another machine you could test on that has a PCI-E slot?

Good luck


----------



## iandroo888

http://www.overclock.net/folding-tea...rs-needed.html

Team 939 Folding Team.

Apply at that thread. 2 members needed


----------



## Raziel

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Wait, I'm a little unclear (love your name btw, Joe







): Do you just need to know what wire does what, or are you also trying to switch blade rotor assemblies?

If it's the latter, I'm not too sure if that would work as well as you're hoping, to be honest. At best you could have a blown fan motor; at worst, well... depending on where you plug that modified fan into, you may wreck a motherboard...










OK, give me a second to explain. I have a 120mm 5-blade fan on my CPU heatsink right now. Doesn't flow TOO much, but enough. I have in my possession multiple 40mm high-velocity fans. What I'm trying to do is this, replace that single 120mm fan with 4 - 40mm high-velocity fans. The plugs on the fans are 6-wire connectors. They were in a 1U Dell PowerEdge Server. I realize that I'm not plugging them into the motherboard. They are 12v 1.1a vans (each). I want to use the high-velocity fans to get more flow across the heatsink, as well as the power transistors on the motherboard.

I realize there MAY be a noise increase (or should I say more than likely WILL be a noise increase), but I'm just trying to see if i can get more cooling and a higher overclock using these fans instead of dumping money into water since I have the fans available.

so, now I have to figure out what these wires are. I'm assuming (from checking other similar fans) that the black and red are the power and ground, but I'm trying to figure out what the blue is. It's either an RPM sensor, or it might be a variable for slowing the fans, but I'm not sure. I don't know what I'd do to test this. I've already accepted that I'm going to be using a standard 4 pin molex (like the hard drive plugs), but if I can use that blue line for a variable, I have a speed control from the existing fan that I can use.


----------



## nategr8ns

black is ground usually, red is 12v as far as I know.
not sure what the blue is... maybe leave it out for now?









in other news: The TIM just arrived from TxtmstrJoe with a long (unnecessary) apology letter for it being late. Joe, there was no due date on it, but thank you for the note <3.
I will be reseating my heatsink with it this week(end, probably). Should I relap it first? Its at 600 grit now, and I have some 1500grit that I can use, but I don't really want to skip so far.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


black is ground usually, red is 12v as far as I know.
not sure what the blue is... maybe leave it out for now?










Nate, that's correct. Red should be the 12volt. Blue might be for fans sensor on monitoring speed. Just try the red 12volt wire and ground. If it's to fast you could always 7volt or 5volt mod a 4-pin molex to slow down the fan. I'm sure you could mod a 3-pin connector to house the fan wires. It would be easier to show you IRL


----------



## Raziel

Well, with the amps that EACH fan will be pulling, I'm going to have to use the 12v lines on the PSU/Molex connector. I don't want to risk blowing up the board, considering I'm looking at 4 fans, at least, for the heatsink.

I know if I do the red & black, it will be full 12 volt speed (damn fast) constantly. i'm not sure if I want to risk testing that last line (the blue one) to the 3 pin header for the CPU fan, because it'll be 8 different RPM readings being sent to that.

I MIGHT see if I can take the POT speed control that is on the existing 120mm fan and wire it to the blue line (wired similar to the existing fan right now, the one being replaced), and control the speed that way.

These are all just ideas right now. The heatsink/fan that I have is the RaidMax Glacier and it does a good job right now. But i want to get something flowing more and see if i can get lower temps, and increase the air blowing across the power transisters as well.


----------



## boonie2

Success , finally , uninstalled drivers , ran driver cleaner pro , reinstalled latest drivers ..now using evga precision nice little tool







that drove me buggy for alittle while as you can tell from my avitar


----------



## nategr8ns

Raziel, you would only be able to use the blue wire from one fan, it won't work with all four fans hooked up to that blue one


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
Success , finally , uninstalled drivers , ran driver cleaner pro , reinstalled latest drivers ..now using evga precision nice little tool







that drove me buggy for alittle while as you can tell from my avitar

great! The new Evga precision works pretty darn good don't it? It actually reads the OC correctly.


----------



## nategr8ns

but it doesn't have a stress test. The "test clocks" button or whatever it is only rechecks the drivers (not sure what that does).
I'm currently using Precision and ATITool


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


but it doesn't have a stress test. The "test clocks" button or whatever it is only rechecks the drivers (not sure what that does).
I'm currently using Precision and ATITool










true,but I'd rather have a program that works properly than one that locks up. At the same OC with the Evga my card runs smooth as silk. I try the same OC with Rivatuner or ATI Tool and it locks up. Not all the time mind you,but enough to be irritating.


----------



## nategr8ns

oh i see...
So the program that overclocks can sometimes cause instabilities? Even after the program is closed?
I learn something new every day.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


oh i see...
So the program that overclocks can sometimes cause instabilities? Even after the program is closed?
I learn something new every day.


ATI Tool will set and keep the OC and weather it's open or closed,the Vidcard will hold that OC. Unless of course you set it back to default.


----------



## nategr8ns

I know it holds the overclock, but don't all the overclock programs simply edit a value in the GFX card's BIOS? When you quit the programs, there shouldn't be any difference between overclocking with this program or with that...
I don't really know much about it, but this is my understanding.


----------



## boonie2

I dont know about anyone else but ive ALWAYS had problems with atitool and overclocking , lock ups , random crashes no matter what the O/C ..its ok for artifact testing but evga precision is impressive keeps a running readout of clock speeds / temps / fps right on the game screen







{rep for the tip , ODIN}


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


I know it holds the overclock, but don't all the overclock programs simply edit a value in the GFX card's BIOS? When you quit the programs, there shouldn't be any difference between overclocking with this program or with that...
I don't really know much about it, but this is my understanding.


well if your trying to OC with different programs,they are going to conflict with each other. It will not matter if they are open or closed.

I use ATI tool to stress test my card, BUT Evga Precision to OC the card. Basically I do not set any values with ATI tool. I just open it and stress the card. Make sure if using multiple programs such as these. make sure only one of them actually is overclocking the vidcard.

My set up:

Overclocking: Evga Precision
Stress Testing: ATI Tool "no values set or changed or added in reg files"

or

Overclocking: RivaTuner
Stress Testing: ATI Tool "no values set or changed or added in reg files"

or

Overclocking: ATI Tool
Stress Testing: ATI Tool "now you can set values with ATI Tool"

hope that helps

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


I dont know about anyone else but ive ALWAYS had problems with atitool and overclocking , lock ups , random crashes no matter what the O/C ..its ok for artifact testing but evga precision is impressive keeps a running readout of clock speeds / temps / fps right on the game screen







{rep for the tip , ODIN}


Thanks Boonie, I'm very glad Evga developed it. I loved using Nvidia's old interface until they changed it. Now it won't hold an OC to save it's life. The "fur" benches have been pricless when testing my OC limits. I still use ATI tool, but with Fur I can see an immediate change in FPS and if I have gone to far...well it just freezes


----------



## Raziel

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Raziel, you would only be able to use the blue wire from one fan, it won't work with all four fans hooked up to that blue one










Well, don't know if it's a variable control, or RPM control. I'm thinking I might just leave it on 100% 100% of the time (direct connection to the 4 pin Molex connector).

Here's how they have to be configured. There are 6 in use, not 4. I would have to have 9 of the other fans, and I only have 4. So I have to wait to get more. The pics are as follows...

Under the configuration, is a 120mm fan being used for a template. Please don't slam me too much. It's just something I figured that I had and would see what would happen. Would that be too much dead-space making it ineffecient, or do you think the fans would produce enough flow that it wouldn't matter? All input is greatly appreciated.

OR would this be better, it's slightly wider than the 120mm heatsink. THe bottom shape is the size of 3 x 3 of the fans I have. THen there's an overlap for the power transistors. THe pics are attached as well. Which would be the better setup?? Now remember, this will be hooked directly to the +12 in the molex connector.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Raziel* 
Well, don't know if it's a variable control, or RPM control. I'm thinking I might just leave it on 100% 100% of the time (direct connection to the 4 pin Molex connector).

Here's how they have to be configured. There are 6 in use, not 4. I would have to have 9 of the other fans, and I only have 4. So I have to wait to get more. The pics are as follows...

Under the configuration, is a 120mm fan being used for a template. Please don't slam me too much. It's just something I figured that I had and would see what would happen. Would that be too much dead-space making it ineffecient, or do you think the fans would produce enough flow that it wouldn't matter? All input is greatly appreciated.

OR would this be better, it's slightly wider than the 120mm heatsink. THe bottom shape is the size of 3 x 3 of the fans I have. THen there's an overlap for the power transistors. THe pics are attached as well. Which would be the better setup?? Now remember, this will be hooked directly to the +12 in the molex connector.

I believe you would be better off just using the 120mm. I tried this with 2x120mm it really didn't do anything other than raise my case temp a bit. It seemed to restrict it more than benefit it.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


I dont know about anyone else but ive ALWAYS had problems with atitool


Boonie, same here. ATITool 0.26 never gave me problems on my X800Pro but when I switched to 0.27 with my 3850 I started getting random crashes. Perhaps maybe that is because 0.27 is beta









Raziel, just FYI those little 40mm fans are loud at 100%. You might be better off just under volting them if your really wanting to use them.

Good luck


----------



## boonie2

Raziel you need to consider that you only have a 400w PSU also , dont know how you have your connections but better split the fans between the rails , you probubly already thought of that , that is an awful lot of fans to try and fit in there without restrictions , oops just noticed your case , you might be ok room wise .


----------



## -iceblade^

thanks for adding me in


----------



## Raziel

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


Raziel you need to consider that you only have a 400w PSU also , dont know how you have your connections but better split the fans between the rails , you probubly already thought of that , that is an awful lot of fans to try and fit in there without restrictions , oops just noticed your case , you might be ok room wise .


Yea, I made sure that there was going to be enough space in the case for the fans. I was going to be running them off the 4-pin molex connectors in for the hard drives (similar to the case fans that are presently in the case). I'm not sure if I'd be able to get them on different rails. (that kind of thing, I'm not too positive about checking)

There are others that are exactly 40mm square. I was considering using them for an inlet to get more flow into the case, but not sure about it yet. Might be more noise than what I want to deal with (considering it's at home in the living room).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Raziel, just FYI those little 40mm fans are loud at 100%. You might be better off just under volting them if your really wanting to use them.

Good luck










The more I think about this, and discuss it with another admin friend of mine, it might be better to just stick with the 120mm fan for the CPU. Because, thinking about it, those little fans running at 10,000RPM is LOUD, and given that I'll need at least 6 (with dead spots) or 9 (with overlapping), it's going to be insanely loud. Possibly hearing damage loud (or atleast very irritating to the dog!!). The space isn't an issue, it's getting things mounted and deciding if the added noise and hastle to build is worth it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


I believe you would be better off just using the 120mm. I tried this with 2x120mm it really didn't do anything other than raise my case temp a bit. It seemed to restrict it more than benefit it.


That's the entire reason of doing this is to increase airflow across that heatsink and get more flow against the power transisters. So I'm looking at everything before I make a decision. I'm not so dead-set in having lights inside the case of the computer. Personally, I don't care if it's dark or light in there because it doesn't benefit me for performance. So if i change the fan for a 120mm that has more blades, that's going to have more airflow across that heatsink. Just have to find one (no, i've not really looked or know what the best fans are or anything like that).

Here's another question then. There's a heatsink & fan on the chipset. It's a single fan that's 40mm. Would replacing that with one of these high velocity ones be benificial?? Right now, it's got a fan running 6k rpm and temp of 35C at idle. I don't know how much keeping that very cool would be.

As always, any & all suggestions & opinions are greatly appreciated.

so, right now, it would be probably best to keep the 120mm on the heatsink and find one that flows more than the existing fan (it only runs at 1300RPM at 32C & that's with the speed control on full speed!!).


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Raziel*


The more I think about this, and discuss it with another admin friend of mine, it might be better to just stick with the 120mm fan for the CPU. Because, thinking about it, those little fans running at 10,000RPM is LOUD, and given that I'll need at least 6 (with dead spots) or 9 (with overlapping), it's going to be insanely loud.


Raziel, I think that's a better idea. I work with 1950's and 2950's and let me tell you those fans are not quiet...even at idle. I hope the 120mm's work out for you .

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Sometime after I get home tonight, I'll share some of my collection of 120mm fans with everyone here in the Club. I'll provide photos, model numbers, pertinent dimensions, published performance statistics, and my personal opinions/impressions/observations of these fans.

Hopefully these can be educational, or at the very least interesting, to anyone who's into fans.


----------



## thlnk3r

I look forward to it Joe


----------



## Blitz6804

We all know Joe is a fan of fans!

My friend was visiting the past few days which is why I have not been around much. Tomorrow is my last final (0900-1200h EDT) until I am officially in Summer. I will be in Florida from the twentieth to the twenty eighth; completely sans-internet! *Sobs.*

After that, I am going down to my parent's to house-sit from around the first until the fourteenth or so. Near the beginning and end of that, expect me to be sparse, but in the middle, I will be pretty active. What is nice, is when I go down I will be getting my other 2 GB of RAM (back to 4 GB finally!) as well as modding my case. Instead of perforating the door, I may instead opt to cut a hole in the door; depends what tools my dad will let me use.

And also, would a shroud improve or decrease performance would you think? At present, I have a 92mm fan on the door as an intake with a 10mm gap before you get my 120mm mounted on the SI-128. Would I get better performance somehow sealing the two together so it is a solid tube? What about getting rid of the 92mm all together and just make a tube from the door in? Modifying the door to take a 120mm and tubing it? What will give me the best performance? Any opinions or suggestions? I am slow at times, diagrams or photos may help.


----------



## Raziel

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Sometime after I get home tonight, I'll share some of my collection of 120mm fans with everyone here in the Club. I'll provide photos, model numbers, pertinent dimensions, published performance statistics, and my personal opinions/impressions/observations of these fans.

Hopefully these can be educational, or at the very least interesting, to anyone who's into fans.









Great, I look forward to that. Might give me insight & a direction for replacing the 120mm fan that exists right now. I know that it's not absolutely necessary, but I'd rather have something that does the job well, instead of wondering if this fan is going to die.

I've read a lot of complaints about this heatsink revolving around the life of the fan and that's the first thing that's replaced. So that's the reason for the searching right now. I mean, the fan is going on 2 years old, but at the same time, I'm not going to wait and see what happens.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
And also, would a shroud improve or decrease performance would you think? At present, I have a 92mm fan on the door as an intake with a 10mm gap before you get my 120mm mounted on the SI-128. Would I get better performance somehow sealing the two together so it is a solid tube? What about getting rid of the 92mm all together and just make a tube from the door in? Modifying the door to take a 120mm and tubing it? What will give me the best performance? Any opinions or suggestions? I am slow at times, diagrams or photos may help.

Blitz, I bet if you clean up those cables you'd see a difference in temps


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah yeah, I know that. The problem is, every time I take the MoBo out (which I will do again soon) it gets worse.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Yeah yeah, I know that. The problem is, every time I take the MoBo out (which I will do again soon) it gets worse.

Blitz, no excuses









Just keep this in mind...zip ties are your best friend


----------



## Blitz6804

So are power tools. If I had the ability to drill through the steel, I would. But I do not, so I will not.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
So are power tools. If I had the ability to drill through the steel, I would. But I do not, so I will not.

Blitz, why do you need to drill through the steel?


----------



## Blitz6804

Run the worst of the cabling on the far side of the case, _id est_, behind the motherboard. What kills me is that every time I pull the motherboard, I get lazy, and just push the wires back in; it gets worse every time I do so.

I have had the motherboard out three times since rewiring, so that explains the increasing mess.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Run the worst of the cabling on the far side of the case, _id est_, behind the motherboard. What kills me is that every time I pull the motherboard, I get lazy, and just push the wires back in; it gets worse every time I do so.

I have had the motherboard out three times since rewiring, so that explains the increasing mess.


Blitz, almost sounds like a modular PSU would help out a lot but obviously that's not an option. My CM690 was fairly simple only because I had two holes on the bottom and top of the motherboard tray. I was able to route the PSU cables through the bottom. There was also a lot of cables I took out that were unnecessary.


----------



## Blitz6804

Motherboard tray... thats a fancy-schmancy luxury that I lack. This is likely why I dread every time I need to take the motherboard out. (-_-)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Somebody named Sub-Zero has the lazies...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Motherboard tray... thats a fancy-schmancy luxury that I lack. This is likely why I dread every time I need to take the motherboard out. (-_-)


You know whats funny.....my machine has a removeable mobo tray, but I never use it. All my cables are zip-tied to the back of it, so I'm forced to just unscrew the motherboard







.

Looking forward to hearing about txtmstrjoe's fans.

Anybody know of a Quadro based card that is the exact same as a 9600GT? Its for the rig CURRENTLY in my sig. Has to be the exact same card as the 9600GT, just the Quadro version. I'm hoping to buy a 9600GT and RivaTuner mod it into a Quadro







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

An important update about the Socket 939 Appreciation Club: To improve how our Club operates, thlnk3r, pioneerisloud, and I have decided to add two new Club "officers." They are blitz6804 and GuardianOdin.

Part of the idea of having Club officers is so that we can increase the chances of someone from the Club "leadership" is always available for any intra-Club issues, whatever they are. blitz and Guardian will also be able receive petitions for membership via PM; unfortunately, only I will be able to make any changes to the roster, so people will still have to wait until I'm able to do so.







(I really wish I can delegate this particular task, to be honest.)

Anyway, please welcome our new deputies.







We hope that our happy growing group continues to thrive, and thank YOU (*ALL* of you) for making ours such a successful sub-group within OCN.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
An important update about the Socket 939 Appreciation Club: To improve how our Club operates, thlnk3r, pioneerisloud, and I have decided to add two new Club "officers." They are blitz6804 and GuardianOdin.

Part of the idea of having Club officers is so that we can increase the chances of someone from the Club "leadership" is always available for any intra-Club issues, whatever they are. blitz and Guardian will also be able receive petitions for membership via PM; unfortunately, only I will be able to make any changes to the roster, so people will still have to wait until I'm able to do so.







(I really wish I can delegate this particular task, to be honest.)

Anyway, please welcome our new deputies.







We hope that our happy growing group continues to thrive, and thank YOU (*ALL* of you) for making ours such a successful sub-group within OCN.









CONGRATULATIONS BLITZ AND GUARDAIN!!!!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
CONGRATULATIONS BLITZ AND GUARDAIN!!!!






























thank you thank you...I'd first like to thank everyone that voted....errr....that...hmmm. I got's me a badge and I's knows how to use it!


----------



## thlnk3r

Yay for Blitz and the G.O


----------



## Raziel

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
thank you thank you...I'd first like to thank everyone that voted....errr....that...hmmm. I got's me a badge and I's knows how to use it!









I think this was supposed to say...








YOU WILL RESPECT MY AUTHORITY!!!









J/K!!


----------



## nategr8ns

^ facepalm

congratulations you guys!
I have a question: I have some money (I just sold 2x512 of my memory) and I was wondering what 2x1gb kits are good for overclocking?
I have absolutely no experience in buying memoriez.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


^ facepalm

congratulations you guys!
I have a question: I have some money (I just sold 2x512 of my memory) and I was wondering what 2x1gb kits are good for overclocking?
I have absolutely no experience in buying memoriez.


I'd just buy the cheapest 2x1GB kit you can (the GSkill with red heatspreaders look nice)...and just put it on a divider. That's my suggestion tho.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I'd just buy the cheapest 2x1GB kit you can (the GSkill with red heatspreaders look nice)...and just put it on a divider. That's my suggestion tho.


My gskill memory wasn't too bad. I was able to get it up to 244mhz at stock timings before I had errors in memtest. This was with 2.7volts. Of course with my Opteron 170 at 3Ghz I can't even come close to 210mhz


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


^ facepalm

congratulations you guys!
I have a question: I have some money (I just sold 2x512 of my memory) and I was wondering what 2x1gb kits are good for overclocking?
I have absolutely no experience in buying memoriez.


in the for sale section there is a 2x1Gb of G.Skill DDR500 for $105 I believe. I use them and they OC great.


----------



## boonie2

CONGRTATS BLITZ AND ODIN







And welcome to the new members whoever you are , I know I must have missed a post somewhere


----------



## nategr8ns

Odin, $105 is a little bit over my budget








I think I'll stick with ddr400 for now.
If I go new, it will be out of these kits (if the compare link doesn't work, tell me)

I will probably get it off eBay though, if I can find any good ones


----------



## Blitz6804

I thank txtmstrjoe for the honor of bestowing on me club officership. While it would be nice if Guardian and I could amend the roster as necessary, we can still provide a friendly face for newcomers when you and Thlnk3r(bell) are out of town.

In other news... I am still waiting on Admin to fix my user name. I could have sworn I registered with a capital "B," but it is now lowercase. Taking a while to get an answer... (-_-)

nategr8ns: I would get the mushkin or the Patriot RAM as per your link.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
Odin, $105 is a little bit over my budget








I think I'll stick with ddr400 for now.
If I go new, it will be out of these kits (if the compare link doesn't work, tell me)

I will probably get it off eBay though, if I can find any good ones

I would personally get any of those kits myself. The Mushkin seem to be of higher quality with the OCZ falling right behind it. Get whichever ones have the tightest timings







. Your motherboard should take any of those kits with ease







.


----------



## nategr8ns

sounds like mushkin or patriot to me.
Mushkin at 2-3-2-6 @ 2.6-2.8V and patriot at 2-3-2-5 @ 2.7V
There's some hyperX kits ending in a day on eBay, but I think they're going to be too expensive.
eBay also has some Corsair XMS but its 3-3-3-8.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I've had great experience with both the Mushkin Redline DDR500 2x1GB kit as well as the Patriot PC3200LLK 2x1GB kit. In fact, the Patriots were most impressive; they lived OCed for most of their lives, only recently going to silicon heaven.

If memory serves me correctly, while they were in my current sig rig, the Patriots tested out to a stable max of DDR470 (235MHz), with conservative timings of 3-3-3-7-1T (2.75V). I also didn't know as much (not that I'm a RAM maven anyway) about the other timings adjustments available to me in my A8N32-SLI's BIOS when I had that kit, so who knows how far the Patriots could have gone had I pushed them harder. Also, I'd say that a year and a half of life OCed is excellent for RAM.

(I've had Corsairs that were defective straight out of the package, just as a point of comparison...)

The Mushkin Redlines, on the other hand, really reward you if you've got a comprehensive (read: DFI LANParty-esque) motherboard BIOS to work with. As I'd noted recently, not even the A8N32-SLI's BIOS is as complete as it should be to truly wring every last MHz from a 2GB kit of Mushkin Redlines (or any 2GB kit made of Infineon CE-5/6 ICs). Just the same, my gaming rig (which still runs Redlines) tested S&M stable up to DDR560 (280MHz, or 1:1 with my HTT clock); I couldn't keep the RAM speed that high, though, because of the ICs' tendency to induce 3D instability.


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


sounds like mushkin or patriot to me.
Mushkin at 2-3-2-6 @ 2.6-2.8V and patriot at 2-3-2-5 @ 2.7V
There's some hyperX kits ending in a day on eBay, but I think they're going to be too expensive.
eBay also has some Corsair XMS but its 3-3-3-8.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I've had great experience with both the Mushkin Redline DDR500 2x1GB kit as well as the Patriot PC3200LLK 2x1GB kit. In fact, the Patriots were most impressive; they lived OCed for most of their lives, only recently going to silicon heaven.

If memory serves me correctly, while they were in my current sig rig, the Patriots tested out to a stable max of DDR470 (235MHz), with conservative timings of 3-3-3-7-1T (2.75V). I also didn't know as much (not that I'm a RAM maven anyway) about the other timings adjustments available to me in my A8N32-SLI's BIOS when I had that kit, so who knows how far the Patriots could have gone had I pushed them harder. Also, I'd say that a year and a half of life OCed is excellent for RAM.

(I've had Corsairs that were defective straight out of the package, just as a point of comparison...)

The Mushkin Redlines, on the other hand, really reward you if you've got a comprehensive (read: DFI LANParty-esque) motherboard BIOS to work with. As I'd noted recently, not even the A8N32-SLI's BIOS is as complete as it should be to truly wring every last MHz from a 2GB kit of Mushkin Redlines (or any 2GB kit made of Infineon CE-5/6 ICs). Just the same, my gaming rig (which still runs Redlines) tested S&M stable up to DDR560 (280MHz, or 1:1 with my HTT clock); I couldn't keep the RAM speed that high, though, because of the ICs' tendency to induce 3D instability.


My OCZ Plats oc'ed to 241MHz once i got them on my expert board. They're like the redlines in that respect. You need to be able to adjust sub-timings to get 'em that high. Come to think of it I had to adjust sub-timings to get 'em stable at stock speeds too lol!


----------



## nategr8ns

^ I'm not sure what types of sub-timing options I have in my BIOS, but I know there are TONS of things to choose from (I've just never messed with them







)

I'll keep looking on eBay, I guess I'll skip those corsairs for now.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, I would suggest skipping the Corsairs. I have the CAS Latency = 2 version (2-3-3-6) and they need 2.75 V to be stable at those timings at DDR 400. That is just too darn high in my opinion, as that is as high as my board goes.


----------



## GuardianOdin

.....crickets? ....tumbleweed? .......wake up!


----------



## Blitz6804

I would just like to make an announcement:

Designated drivers are the coolest thing ever invented. Mine drust jove me back from "decompression" (read: 4 hours of free booze) and ensured that I or someone else did not end up dead.

Cheers!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Glad you got home safely Blitz! Hope you had fun







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I think blitz might need a Designated Driver whenever he races against pioneer on Race 07.









(Did I just post that?!?)


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I think blitz might need a Designated Driver whenever he races against pioneer on Race 07.









(Did I just post that?!?)



















downloaded the Demo btw. Fun game but kinda of boring racing by myself.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Yeah, it's tons more fun with other people.


----------



## pioneerisloud

You should hit myself, txt, and blitzy up for a race sometime!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Just watch out for that wily pioneer. He's a tricky one, he is.

He likes to sucker you into thinking he can't tell which pedal is the gas, and which is the brake, then he kills you once the lights turn green.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Just watch out for that wily pioneer. He's a tricky one, he is.

He likes to sucker you into thinking he can't tell which pedal is the gas, and which is the brake, then he kills you once the lights turn green.


I do not









No seriously though, I did have my problems a few different times. By race time though, it always seems to be worked out? Huh!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

pio, I dub thee "Sandbagger."


----------



## GuardianOdin

using my mouse and keyboard...pain the butt I tells you. Wish I had a wheel and a pedal.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Ouch.

Definitely not the way to roll.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
pio, I dub thee "Sandbagger."

Did he just say "Teabagger" ?





















dooooooooooaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhh


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
Did he just say "Teabagger" ?





















dooooooooooaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhh

with cookies. It's an English thingy


----------



## Blitz6804

Sorry Pioneer, I am gonna have to agree with Joe here:

You try to trick us!

During practice and qualifications, Pioneer spins out in about half of the corners, usually ending up in sand bags or piled tires. If we are in F3000s with the damage turned on, he is usually on his thirtieth car by the time we get to the actual race.

When we do the actual race, all of a sudden, he is like a racer god. He matches Joe turn-for-turn, and in a few places, actually beats him.

I miss beating Pioneer. I never should have told him how to calibrate his wheel! (-_-)

Side note, I prefer "Blitz" to "blitz" or "blitzy" if it is all the same to you. I am trying to have Admin correct that, but my luck has not been good so far.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hmm... that reminds me.

pioneeristricky owes me a rematch. He thrashed us pretty good the last time we raced, Blitz. I fell off the road a couple of times trying to make up for a poor start. For sure, though, it was fun trying to catch up to pio.









(Almost got him, too, if not for that one final mistake...)


----------



## prosser13

Welll

My spec for my 939 rig is done...

Opty 146
DFI SLI-D
1GB G.Skill DDR600

Just need to pay for the CPU and the RAM and I'm back in the club baby







(if you'll have me!)


----------



## boonie2

Absolutely we shall welcome you to our "hollowed halls" Just submit your validation to one of our esteemed hiarchyists {wow that was tricky} hahaha .. is that even a word ? send it to the "GRAND POO-BAA" I know thats a word , saw it on the "Flintstones"


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *prosser13* 









Welll

My spec for my 939 rig is done...

Opty 146
DFI SLI-D
1GB G.Skill DDR600

Just need to pay for the CPU and the RAM and I'm back in the club baby







(if you'll have me!)

Of course we'll have you!
















D'oh! boonie beat me to it!









GF was on cell phone when I started this message.


----------



## prosser13

So, what OCing results do you guys think I can expect?










It's a

CACJE 0604CPAW

Watercooling mainly but Single Stage at some point...


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Of course we'll have you!
















D'oh! boonie beat me to it!









GF was on cell phone when I started this message.









hahaha Just stopped home for lunch , ina good mood , my opteron 170s are in from ebay today , so i got alittle goofy there


----------



## pioneerisloud

Joe, Blitz, I'm up for another race! I can't stay up too late anymore though. I found out if I go to bed early, I wake up early! So yeah, get ahold of me on xfire (you know the name)....I'm game for a race!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


hahaha Just stopped home for lunch , ina good mood , my opteron 170s are in from ebay today , so i got alittle goofy there










boonie, my friend, you are definitely a permanent rider of the Welcome Wagon!







The driver, even!









prosser13, wish I could tell you what to expect. I've never explored cooling by anything other than air.







Hopefully your chip's got a ton of MHz waiting to be tapped!


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


pio, I dub thee "Sandbagger."


harsh... I think that insult only applies to drag racing, when there are no turns to brake for









Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


using my mouse and keyboard...pain the butt I tells you. Wish I had a wheel and a pedal.


$25 can get you a cheap "Logitech NASCAR Wheel". I have one, its better than a keyboard









Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


hahaha Just stopped home for lunch , ina good mood , my opteron 170s are in from ebay today , so i got alittle goofy there










plural?!?
can I have one?
PLEEEEEEEEEASE?!?

P.S. Is anybody up for a GRID Demo race? I'm finally getting good at drifting







. I don't know if there is even a way to pick certain people to race, but we can figure something out


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


harsh... I think that insult only applies to drag racing, when there are no turns to brake for









$25 can get you a cheap "Logitech NASCAR Wheel". I have one, its better than a keyboard









plural?!?
can I have one?
PLEEEEEEEEEASE?!?

P.S. Is anybody up for a GRID Demo race? I'm finally getting good at drifting







. I don't know if there is even a way to pick certain people to race, but we can figure something out










yeah ive got 3 170s now , stocking up on good deals














have 2 sets of 2-1gb OCZ plats too 2-3-2-5


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


harsh... I think that insult only applies to drag racing, when there are no turns to brake for









$25 can get you a cheap "Logitech NASCAR Wheel". I have one, its better than a keyboard









plural?!?
can I have one?
PLEEEEEEEEEASE?!?

P.S. Is anybody up for a GRID Demo race? I'm finally getting good at drifting







. I don't know if there is even a way to pick certain people to race, but we can figure something out










I dunno, I've been trying the GRID Demo, and I really hate the drift mode. I can't seem to hold it for anything! Now NFS Pro Street, Me + Supra + Drift = PAWN!!!! But the GRID Demo, Me + Drift = FAIL!

Get my drift (pun INTENDED)?


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I dunno, I've been trying the GRID Demo, and I really hate the drift mode. I can't seem to hold it for anything! Now NFS Pro Street, Me + Supra + Drift = PAWN!!!! But the GRID Demo, Me + Drift = FAIL!

Get my drift (pun INTENDED)?


yes i do. But GRID is soooo much more realistic! I hope it has a drag mode also (not in demo) only better than NFSPS








I use one of the cheapest (starting?) nissans for drifting. I don't know why, but I do better with cheap cars







*edit* just in drifting


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Here is the first of my promised series of photos and impressions of 120mm fans in my collection.

Fan: *Delta EFB1312VHE*
Dimensions: *127mm x 38mm*
Number of blades: *Three*
Speed: *4200 RPM*
Airflow: *185 CFM*
Noise: *55.5 dBA*
Static Pressure: *0.644 Pa (~16.35mm H2O)*
Bearing: *Ball bearing*
Voltage: *12 V*
Current: *1.40 Amp*

Photo from Petra's Tech Shop, where I got mine.










Here's mine:









Another look:









One last one:









txtmstrjoe's thoughts: A very powerful fan, and is consequently very loud as well. I had it plugged into my fan controller, which is great for normal use. Turn it up during stress testing or gaming (when I'm wearing headphones), and you hear a very loud whoosh from all the air it's ramming against the fins of the heatsink.

Its size is unusual, but I was still able to fit it onto my SI-128SE. It wasn't a perfect fit, but it fit well enough.

The worst I can say about this particular fan is that it's already dead. I used it all of two or three weeks; this was the fan that failed when I raced pioneerisloud about a month ago, when my rig froze. Thankfully I diagnosed the problem quickly. I'm not sure what killed the fan, but at least it took nothing else with it. Other cons include the fact that, despite being hyper-powerful, there is definitely a point where fan power simply cannot overcome the influence of ambient temperatures. If I had an anenometer, I could measure the precise CFM where the fan simply won't make any difference in cooling ability even if it exceeded that CFM rating.

This fan is best used for heatsinks with tightly-packed fins. The high static pressure (a characteristic common to most 38mm thick fans) is more influential with heatsinks with tightly-packed fins than raw CFMs. The tri-blade design is very effective at moving air, as well; it loses nothing in terms of the radiator cooling efficiency.

It's a good fan to run even at less than full speed. Even at approximately 7V, it is still effective enough to keep temps well under control whilst running Orthos Small FFTs.

If mine hadn't died, I would likely still be running this fan.


----------



## nategr8ns

dare to elaborate more on the size abnormalities?

^ that makes me sound sophisticated


----------



## boonie2

do tell nate


----------



## pioneerisloud

Whoa! Well SOMEBODY has big words in their speech. Heck I can't even this of the "V" word that is the same for speech, lol. Alright, I'm too tired....I'm making myself sound dummer than I am. Off to bed for pioneer.


----------



## alexgheseger

Vernacular is the word i think you're looking for.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
dare to elaborate more on the size abnormalities?

What kind of elaboration do you need?









(I'll do my best to comply, of course.)

I'll show y'all the next fan tomorrow.


----------



## iandroo888

w00t im back to OCN. finals are finished!

started cleaning up my room today. gonna order some parts and get some tools from home depot and start modding!

oh also! bought 3 Zalman CNPS9700 from Fry's today for 19.99 ea. Anniversary Sale. Great deal. Been wanting to buy one of these for a while. So i bought 3. haha. will go into my rigs soon ;]


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


w00t im back to OCN. finals are finished!

started cleaning up my room today. gonna order some parts and get some tools from home depot and start modding!

oh also! bought 3 Zalman CNPS9700 from Fry's today for 19.99 ea. Anniversary Sale. Great deal. Been wanting to buy one of these for a while. So i bought 3. haha. will go into my rigs soon ;]


Is that RAM working out ok? I know the timings are touchy and I don't remember what I had them set to and as soon as I get those bright yellow brackets "I forgot to mail







" you can get that new heatsink a work'in!


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
What kind of elaboration do you need?









(I'll do my best to comply, of course.)

I'll show y'all the next fan tomorrow.

well you said it was weirdly shaped, but you were still able to mount it.
What made it weird?


----------



## Blitz6804

Pioneer and alexgheseger: I think the word we are looking for is "vocabulary." "Vernacular" is how a particular person talks rather than the dictionary version of their language. See also, "dialect."

nategr8ns: Despite it being a "120mm" fan, the fan is not 120mm. It is actually 127mm, which means that it is slightly larger than it should be for its class. This is similar to a 90mm fan actually being 92mm. Hope that helps.

Iandroo888: Welcome back! Those coolers have some great performance to them. Before I swapped to my SI-128, I had the lowest AC temps in the club with my smaller version. Granted, your results may vary, but still.


----------



## nategr8ns

oh I see...








thats weird. I thought 90 and 92mm fans were different sizes, they're almost all listed as 92mm fans online


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Well, Blitz's explanation is quite correct. It will really only make a difference when it comes to mounting the fan.

The SI-128/SI-128SE mounts the fan on its fins in between a space defined by two raised areas; the space is perfect for a 120mm wide fan. The Delta EFB1312VHE is 7mm wider than this space, so it actually sat on top of the two raised areas. Fortunately, the mount was secure enough, and there were no problems whatsoever.


----------



## iandroo888

i havent oc'ed that rig yet. i wanna wait for a better cooler (well i have one now... just no bracket to mount it on haha).


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well I'm glad to hear that txtmstrjoe doesn't have a problem "mounting" things







.

And yes, the word I was looking for was "vocabulary". Just had a brain fart, that's all.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Maybe that's why I'm so insistent with the girlfriend to go live in Canada.

I wanna be a Mountie.










I'm so korny, it hurts!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Maybe that's why I'm so insistent with the girlfriend to go live in Canada.

I wanna be a Mountie.










I'm so korny, it hurts!


















!!!!


----------



## nuklearwax

Sorry fellow 939ers I've been meaning to stop by sooner but I've crazy busy the last couple of months, to update my rig. I've seem to hit a wall at 3.1GHz. It's good for me right now. Maybe next week I'll give 3.2GHz a try.


----------



## Blitz6804

A wall at 3.1 GHz? I would kill someone to be able to hit 3.1 GHz!

Congratulations!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nuklearwax*


Sorry fellow 939ers I've been meaning to stop by sooner but I've crazy busy the last couple of months, to update my rig. I've seem to hit a wall at 3.1GHz. It's good for me right now. Maybe next week I'll give 3.2GHz a try.










Are you serious?

On AIR?










*IMPRESSIVE*.


----------



## nuklearwax

Thanks guys i still need some more tuning to get it rock solid. Damm PWNs still over heat and my PSU is probably at it's max. I've read that a better PSU can help with the PWNs. So i guess that's my next upgrade.


----------



## nategr8ns

^ raidmax? come on...
lol, I'm just kidding, but you should get another PSU soon (get one that can also power your next rig







). Nice overclock BTW, I'm stuck at 2.7 for now, but I haven't had a lot of time to play with it, just some quick tweaks.

joe I don't get it... you want your girlfriend to move away to canada? or you want to move in with your girlfriend whos already in canada?
whatever it doesn't matter and is none of my bee's wax.
I'm probably going to be re-lapping and re-mounting with the TIM you sent me, thanks again for the note (the zoo, eh?)


----------



## nuklearwax

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


^ raidmax? come on...


 Yeah I know, I know. I was low on funds when my last last one popped. Does anyone have any suggestions on how many watts i would need for my rig. I was thinking about 750watts.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nuklearwax*


Thanks guys i still need some more tuning to get it rock solid. Damm PWNs still over heat and my PSU is probably at it's max. I've read that a better PSU can help with the PWNs. So i guess that's my next upgrade.


nuklear, I just noticed you're running an Abit AT8-32X. I've had nothing but struggles with mine.







I suspect that the CPU in my AT8-32X is being held back by the board. That makes your 3.1GHz even more impressive.









To help cool the PWMs, you need to aim a small fan right at it. That's the inherent weakness of a tower-style cooler like the Scythe Mugen: Everything on the motherboard's surface that also needs cooling doesn't get it because the air being blown parallel to the board's plane.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


^ raidmax? come on...
lol, I'm just kidding, but you should get another PSU soon (get one that can also power your next rig







). Nice overclock BTW, I'm stuck at 2.7 for now, but I haven't had a lot of time to play with it, just some quick tweaks.

joe I don't get it... you want your girlfriend to move away to canada? or you want to move in with your girlfriend whos already in canada?
whatever it doesn't matter and is none of my bee's wax.
I'm probably going to be re-lapping and re-mounting with the TIM you sent me, thanks again for the note (the zoo, eh?)


Hehe, I want her and I to move to Canada. She actually lives in Mississippi, where it's both incredibly hot and humid during the summer and very cold during the winter. I want to move to British Columbia (Vancouver, I'm told, is a sensationally beautiful part of the world). If it's too cold, well, it's easier to put clothes on. Here in SoCal, where it's feeling like mid-July in the middle of May







and where I don't have AC in my bedroom, there's a definite limit as to what you can do to cool off.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nuklearwax*


Yeah I know, I know. I was low on funds when my last last one popped. Does anyone have any suggestions on how many watts i would need for my rig. I was thinking about 750watts.










It's not so much the wattage that you need to look out for, but the amperage produced (especially in the 12V range).

The 3870 X2 (wish I had one!) is a honey of a card, but that alone is very demanding. Calculate your 12V amperage requirements based on your individual parts' requirements and add them up. Then add a little bit of headroom.

(I'd say 50-60A on the 12V rail(s) would be healthy.)


----------



## nuklearwax

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


To help cool the PWMs, you need to aim a small fan right at it. That's the inherent weakness of a tower-style cooler like the Scythe Mugen: Everything on the motherboard's surface that also needs cooling doesn't get it because the air being blown parallel to the board's plane.


 I had to mount a little 40mm fan to the top of the passive PWN cooler. It works pretty good when I'm at 2.8Ghz but at 3.0Ghz and up it's not enough. I think your right about the Mugen blocking the air flow around the CPU base, right where the PWNs are at. I've gotta take a good look at it and see if i can mount a fan to blow air towards the exhaust fan at the rear of the case. Thanks for the idea.







I'll start looking at PSU with a 60amp 12v rail. What if a PSU as 4 12V rails @ 20amps each is that any good?


----------



## iandroo888

hmm.. i might be able to get my hands some some sheet metal and tinted plexi for like $20! <3 craigslist once in a while. lolol. dang. if i do a good enough job, i might just sell the rocketfish case hahaha @[email protected]


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Pioneer and alexgheseger: I think the word we are looking for is "vocabulary." "Vernacular" is how a particular person talks rather than the dictionary version of their language. See also, "dialect."

nategr8ns: Despite it being a "120mm" fan, the fan is not 120mm. It is actually 127mm, which means that it is slightly larger than it should be for its class. This is similar to a 90mm fan actually being 92mm. Hope that helps.

Iandroo888: Welcome back! Those coolers have some great performance to them. Before I swapped to my SI-128, I had the lowest AC temps in the club with my smaller version. Granted, your results may vary, but still.


English lessons and geek speak all in one. Very multifaceted (my big word of the day) thread we have going here.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nuklearwax*









I'll start looking at PSU with a 60amp 12v rail. What if a PSU as 4 12V rails @ 20amps each is that any good?










That'll work fine.


----------



## prosser13

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nuklearwax*


What if a PSU as 4 12V rails @ 20amps each is that any good?










It'll work fine but it isn't the same as 60 amps on the 12V rail - you can't just add them up.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


w00t im back to OCN. finals are finished!

started cleaning up my room today. gonna order some parts and get some tools from home depot and start modding!

oh also! bought 3 Zalman CNPS9700 from Fry's today for 19.99 ea. Anniversary Sale. Great deal. Been wanting to buy one of these for a while. So i bought 3. haha. will go into my rigs soon ;]


pssssssssssssssssssssssst...sell me one of your 9700s


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Maybe that's why I'm so insistent with the girlfriend to go live in Canada.

I wanna be a Mountie.










I'm so korny, it hurts!










RIDE EM COWBOY














sorry couldnt resit that one


----------



## loggan26

Just noticed this thread

I done this a bit back but i guess its still legal.

DFI Ultra-D
2GB OCZ GoldGX PC4000
165 Toledo Opteron

*3258Ghz*

Logan


----------



## boonie2

WELCOME LOGGAN26 , very nice


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Let me be the second to bid you welcome, loggan26!

Most impressive with the Opteron 165! What kind of cooling were you running when you clocked it that high?


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nuklearwax* 
What if a PSU as 4 12V rails @ 20amps each is that any good?










Quote:


Originally Posted by *prosser13* 
It'll work fine but it isn't the same as 60 amps on the 12V rail - you can't just add them up.

you can't? It depends which components get which rails right? something like that (I'm tired btw)

Loggan, thats a great overclock. Wolverine would be proud


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Check this post out from this thread (from another forum):

_There are a few power supplies on the market that feature true independent +12V rails. Most, however, use multiple current limited leads attached to a single +12V source. Essentially, these are single rail power supplies that split the power between multiple wires. The reason for this is to keep the power on any one wire under 240VA (240 watts with 12V). Exceeding 240VA over a single wire raises the possibility of overloading the wire and causing a fire.

When calculating the maximum current (amps) on a multiple rail power supply, you can't simply add the rails together. While this is relatively accurate with two rails, likely coming within 1 - 4 amps of the actual rating, with three or four rails it will often result in more power than the power supply is capable of producing. This is due to the above mentioned safety issue and manufacturers exploiting the idea that multiple rails perform better. The current rating for each rail is simply the limit for that rail, not a part of a greater sum.

If you want to find the current rating for a power supply that uses multiple +12V rails, you'll need to look at the detailed specs under "Combined Power," or something to that effect. This figure is generally listed in watts. Just divide that figure by 12 to arrive at the maximum combined current._

Hope that helps!


----------



## loggan26

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Let me be the second to bid you welcome, loggan26!

Most impressive with the Opteron 165! What kind of cooling were you running when you clocked it that high?









Twas H20 i have to admit







, kind of custom res etc, Dtek Fusion......and a really big fan blowing across the setup......I was trying for higher but couldn't get it too post no matter what volts i put through the cpu. I have just acquired a few other amd cpu so i will be breaking out the Ultra-D again to see how far i can push those chips.

Thanks for the welcome.

Logan


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Chips in the swimming pool always run cool.









We'd be very happy to hear about all your other S939 chips with your Ultra-D.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *loggan26* 
Twas H20 i have to admit







, kind of custom res etc, Dtek Fusion......and a really big fan blowing across the setup......I was trying for higher but couldn't get it too post no matter what volts i put through the cpu. I have just acquired a few other amd cpu so i will be breaking out the Ultra-D again to see how far i can push those chips.

Thanks for the welcome.

Logan
















awwwwwwwwww burst the bubble














nice a nice clock tho


----------



## boonie2

cant wait for my new board any longer , ive got to see what my new opteron can do CCBBE 0615


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *loggan26*


Twas H20 i have to admit







, kind of custom res etc, Dtek Fusion......and a really big fan blowing across the setup......I was trying for higher but couldn't get it too post no matter what volts i put through the cpu. I have just acquired a few other amd cpu so i will be breaking out the Ultra-D again to see how far i can push those chips.

Thanks for the welcome.

Logan


Very VERY impressive clocks on that 165. I still hold the #1 clock here though







(3.27GHz air). Was yours stable though? That's the key. Mine was not, it was only a suicide run, that I unfortunately can no longer replicate.

I'd also like to throw out my warm welcome to all our new members!


----------



## thlnk3r

Welcome loggan26 to the club









Nuklearwax and loggan, great job on your OC's


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Continuing on txtmstrjoe's ongoing series on fans:

Fan: *Delta FFB1212VHE*
Dimensions: *120mm x 38mm*
Number of blades: *Nine*
Maximum RPMs: *3200 RPM*
Airflow: *151.85 CFM*
Noise: *53.0 dBA*
Static Pressure: *0.445 in H2O*
Bearing: *Ball bearing*
Voltage: *12V*
Current: *1.00A*

Here's an image from SidewinderComputers.com, where I got one of mine.









Here's one of mine, mounted on a Xigmatek S1283, back when my testing rig was housed in a CM690:









A slightly different angle:









txtmstrjoe's thoughts: Another hyper-powerful fan. This worked insanely well when I had *two* mounted in push-pull on a Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme last year. Not that it reduced temperatures all that much compared to a single push fan setup, but it really accelerated cool-downs like no other setup I've tried. From maximum load temps to almost idle temps in under five seconds (a shade over four, actually); you simply can't do that with a single-fan setup, in my opinion.

Again, the price for all that fan power is insanity-inducing noise. This is probably the single loudest fan in my collection. I think its distinctive feature, the directional vanes on the outlet side of the fan (you can see these directional vanes very clearly in the Sidewinder Computers photo), causes so much turbulence. The vanes make the air spin in a vortex, making it more "lively." Aside from noise, I don't know enough about aerodynamics to properly theorize how it improves fan performance, but I suspect it improves how air moves through obstructions (such as tightly-packed heatsink fins). I believe this is a reasonable theory, actually, given that the Ultra 120/Ultra 120 Extreme both have their fins bent at their edges.

Like the oddly-sized Delta EFB1312VHE, it works superbly on a heatsink with tightly-packed fins. I don't know if it works any better than my other fans in single push mode, but I do know that two of these are the best for push-pull duty on a Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme according to my tests.

Its noise profile is not just a whooshing sound from the air slamming against the heatsink fins, but a loud whine as well. It's not a whine from the motor, but a high-pitched noise that's probably generated by the directional vanes on the outlet side of the fan. Then you add the sound of the motor itself, which is not exactly annoying, but it's audible, for sure.

It undervolts as well as the EFB1312VHE; at around 7V it's quite effective, though not as effective at cooling as the EFB1312VHE was. But it's certainly not something you'd hesitate running at less than full power. In fact, if you value your ears, you'd likely find just the right balance of RPMs and temperature reduction.

This fan is supremely effective, but it's far too loud and noisy. But if you only care about effectiveness, this isn't a bad recommendation.


----------



## nategr8ns

Right now I'm trying to reduce the noise of my computer








Sounds like an awesome fan









Do you guys think that hooking my NB fan to a controller is a good or bad idea? I think I may mess it up, but it and my PSU are the loudest components of my computer (I think).
PSU is only loud because of the crazy airflow it generates. I don't think it has a built in fan controller


----------



## Blitz6804

Loudest component in my case is my Hitachi Deskstar at 48.5 dBA. If not for my fans being on thermostats/rheostats, they might be able to change that. Supposedly, my 80/92mm Thermaltakes are also 48.5 dBA at max. My Silverstone FM-122-b is only good for 42.2 dBA at high-end, even though it is always running at the minimum voltage with the rheostat. I am looking to get a pair of 120mm Thermaltakes (as in the link above) in the near future, so I might be getting rid of the Silverstone soon.


----------



## boonie2

1,000 posts







I should say something worthwhile then shouldnt I ? hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm???? I need more coffee....Just like to thank all the members that made this day possible , I couldnt have done it without your help and support , and my mother , without whom , none of this would be possible...Id like to thank my dog bear , if it wasnt for him moving my chair I wouldnt have looked at my screen ... and lastly , Id like to thank George Bush for .................................................. .................................................. .......




























:co nfused:




























:co nfused:














............


----------



## Blitz6804

I just brewed a pot, want some?


----------



## boonie2

sure i was just editing my post.. black 2 sugars please


----------



## Blitz6804

Sounds like I take my coffee... never milk, sometimes sweet.

Right now, I am drinking it straight-up, but if I am having something sweet with it, I have been known to add a sweet and low.

*Slides Boonie a mug*


----------



## boonie2

yeah sometimes I take just 1 sugar but Karen drinks hers with cream and 3-4 sugars , now thats discusting , like drinking syrup


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Do you guys think that hooking my NB fan to a controller is a good or bad idea? I think I may mess it up, but it and my PSU are the loudest components of my computer (I think).
PSU is only loud because of the crazy airflow it generates. I don't think it has a built in fan controller










I wouldn't do that. Unless you know precisely what range the NB fan turns on and off, and you're watching a temp monitor constantly just to modulate fan operation, you get far too little return for too much effort and attention.

Incidentally, I've heard thlnk3r talk about chipset fan noise before, but I myself have never really noticed it. Aside from the fact that only one of the rigs I have right now has a chipset fan (passive cooling FTW!) at all, it's possible that other sounds in the environment are sufficiently loud to drown out the chipset fan.

And boonie: Congrats on 1K!


----------



## Blitz6804

I have no idea what my chipset operates at. I can monitor the chipset fan's speed (about 1800 RPM if I remember right) but not the temperature. It is the typical 40mm fan for an nForce3.


----------



## RAMDAC

My 939 goes under water.


















CPU: Will vary, starting with Zalman ZM-WB4 GOLD
GFX: XSPC UV HD3870X2

NB: Thermaltake Aqua Brazing All Copper W2
This VGA cooler needed some modification prior to installing.
















And instead of using the NB screw, using the Mobo's
















SB: Watercool Heatkiller

The Heatkiller will also need some mods for compatibility,
This part will be made flatter to fit better under the 2nd HD3870X2


















And the red marked area will be completely removed









plus I had to cut away a corner of the SATA port, to bend the Elko a bit for the huge Heatkiller.









To be continued...


----------



## Blitz6804

Best of luck on the conversion RAMDAC. I suggest you make a build log thread and link us over to it.


----------



## iandroo888

nice. how that zalman and vga block do compare to DangerDen or Swiftech waterblocks?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

More fans!

Fan: *Delta EFB1212SHE*
Dimensions: *120mm x 38mm*
Number of blades: *Three*
Maximum RPMS: *3700RPMs*
Airflow: *141.96CFM*
Noise: *52.5dBA*
Static Pressure: *13.21mm in H2O*
Bearing Type: *(most likely) Ball bearing*
Voltage: *12V*
Current: *.80A*

Here's an image from Sidewinder Computers, where I got mine:









Here's a picture of mine:









A view from the inlet side:









txtmstrjoe's thoughts: This fan is indubitably one of my absolute favorites. It's powerful, and it works superbly on radiator (i.e., heatsink) duty. It is supremely effective on a heatsink like the Thermalright SI-128SE or the Ultra 120/Ultra 120 Extreme.

Notice the fan blades, and compare their orientation to most any other fan you have. They are designed to turn clockwise when looking at the inlet side; every other fan I know runs counter-clockwise when viewed from the inlet side.







Pretty neat, huh? The other Delta Tri-Blade, the EFB1312VHE, has its three blades rotate in the conventional counter-clockwise way. BORING









This fan is not nearly as loud as its specs might suggest. I hear a whoosh as the air its pushing slams into the heatsink fins, but the motor itself is inaudible to me. And it's not an unpleasant sound signature, either. I don't mind running this fan at full RPMs, even at bedtime. I can say that about only one other fan in my collection.









Like the other fans I've shared so far, this one responds well to 7V undervolting. It is more effective at 7V RPMs than the 9-bladed FFB1212VHE. This suggests that the design is much more efficient, as it does better at cooling duties than a fan with three times as many blades.

It doesn't lose out to any other fans I have in terms of effectiveness on heatsink duty. I'll very likely come back to using this fan sometime.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Welcome loggan26! I apologize for my lateness. Been working both jobs..









Great OC! 3.2Ghz woot! That would be great if it could do it on air and stay stable.....









I have decided on watercooling folks. I can reach 3.1Ghz on air but it's not Orthos or OCCT stable...but will run apps. That leads me to believe I am hitting an error with my RAM somewhere. I will order a custom CPU block from an OCN member but the rest will be from newegg I guessing.

Nice list of fans Joe!....dare I say you have your own fan" club?









Thanks for the Princess Bride title. I dig it

Quote:

Member of the "Brute Squad,"GuardianOdin


----------



## txtmstrjoe

RAMDAC: LOVE the setup! And please do take Blitz's advice and link us to a worklog, if you make one.









By the way, I've been lusting over that motherboard forever! I wish I could find one somewhere!









G.O.: I guess you can say I'm really a *FAN*boi!


----------



## GuardianOdin

LOL

dang RAMDAC! can't wait to see it all together.


----------



## Blitz6804

You know Joe, there are bad jokes, and then there is that one. If it was any cheesier, you would be grating it up and putting it on top of spaghetti.

I am curious though, is Delta the only fan company you own?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
You know Joe, there are bad jokes, and then there is that one. If it was any cheesier, you would be grating it up and putting it on top of spaghetti.

I am curious though, is Delta the only fan company you own?

I don't eat jokes for lunch. Not even the cheesiest.









As far as whether or not I only use Delta fans, negative on that one too. Those just happened to be the fans I shared first.


----------



## boonie2

Ok guys {and Ladies} just bought 2 motherboards .. 1-A8N32 sli {NEW} and 1-DFI Lan party UT ultra D w/THERMALRIGHT HR-05-SLI passive northbride heatsink ... opinions which one i should test out first with my opteron 170 ccbbe 0615 .... going to be "Dealtime" with my extra 939 components when im finished ..


----------



## prosser13

Dfi!


----------



## froggy1986

A8N32 would be the first that I would try personally. But then again I'm biased because pio and I couldn't get our old DFI to OC our manny too well.


----------



## DanDaManZ06

I dont know if you guys can help me... since this has nothing do to with 939 but i'm going to post it any ways I built a mid range computer for my friend so he can play wow and CS:S on and i just encountered a problem... 10 seconds after i press the power button the computer shuts down... then i push the power button again... and it shuts down soon after that... its take 5 seconds for it to shut down it does not even post... what can be the problem... i tryed replacing the old 380 watt PSU with a New 700Watt PSU... his system setup is: 1 80GB Western Digital HDD, 1x DVD/CD Burner, 3GB of ram 1x1024 and 1x2048 both are G-Skill, Evga 7800GT 256mb, AMD Athlon 4800X2 with its stock fan/heatsink, 3 case fans 1x120mm and 2x80mm, ASUS M2N-SLI DELUXE and a in a cheap raidmax case that he picked up! Oh and heres the usermanual for his PSU http://www.rocketfishproducts.com/sk...700WPS_WEB.pdf thanks for the help guys.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *froggy1986*


A8N32 would be the first that I would try personally. But then again I'm biased because pio and I couldn't get our old DFI to OC our manny too well.


I'm a firm believer the DFI mobo's are finicky with RAM settings. It never matter what CPU I used in it,but the RAM has always been an issue.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DanDaManZ06*


I dont know if you guys can help me... since this has nothing do to with 939 but i'm going to post it any ways I built a mid range computer for my friend so he can play wow and CS:S on and i just encountered a problem... 10 seconds after i press the power button the computer shuts down... then i push the power button again... and it shuts down soon after that... its take 5 seconds for it to shut down it does not even post... what can be the problem... i tryed replacing the old 380 watt PSU with a New 700Watt PSU... his system setup is: 1 80GB Western Digital HDD, 1x DVD/CD Burner, 3GB of ram 1x1024 and 1x2048 both are G-Skill, Evga 7800GT 256mb, AMD Athlon 4800X2 with its stock fan/heatsink, 3 case fans 1x120mm and 2x80mm, ASUS M2N-SLI DELUXE and a in a cheap raidmax case that he picked up! Oh and heres the usermanual for his PSU http://www.rocketfishproducts.com/sk...700WPS_WEB.pdf thanks for the help guys.


Remove two of the sticks of RAM then set the BIOS to default. See if it will POST after that. It is ALWAYS best to use RAM from the same set. The 3 sticks may be all the same G.Skill but the mobo won't like it and it will cause issues.


----------



## Blitz6804

Read again GuardianOdin; he has 2 sticks of RAM. 1 is a gig, the other is two gigs.

Try using only the smaller stick to see if it will POST. Make sure that you have it in the slot the motherboard manual calls for.

EDIT: I just read your friend's manual. Try placing either stick of your choice in slot A1 as on page 2-11. When you put both in, did you have them in A1/A2 or A1/B1? A1/B1 will give you dual channel mode, but I think it more likely that A1/A2 will boot.

EDIT2: Wow... you can now see a version history of posts similar to Wikipedia!


----------



## GuardianOdin

that link seems to be broken Blitz.

Edit: never mind. I see he's not using 939..my bad. Well either way. Two different sticks even from the same company doesn't mean they are going to work well with each other.


----------



## Blitz6804

Very true. On similar vein, you will notice that G-Skill is not listed as a qualified vendor. While this does not necessarily mean it will not work, it does mean that ASUS tech support may be unresponsive until you try a QV.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Sounds like I take my coffee... never milk, sometimes sweet.

Right now, I am drinking it straight-up, but if I am having something sweet with it, I have been known to add a sweet and low.

*Slides Boonie a mug*


Good man. I can't stand sugar or milk/cream in mine.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I have no idea what my chipset operates at. I can monitor the chipset fan's speed (about 1800 RPM if I remember right) but not the temperature. It is the typical 40mm fan for an nForce3.


lucky, mines usually at around 3000 or 5000, I can't remember which (it might be the range between though, never below 3k though)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


Ok guys {and Ladies} just bought 2 motherboards .. 1-A8N32 sli {NEW} and 1-DFI Lan party UT ultra D w/THERMALRIGHT HR-05-SLI passive northbride heatsink ... opinions which one i should test out first with my opteron 170 ccbbe 0615 .... going to be "Dealtime" with my extra 939 components when im finished ..










damn, you must have outbid me on the dfi board...
*goes back to check bid logs*
lol


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


Ok guys {and Ladies} just bought 2 motherboards .. 1-A8N32 sli {NEW} and 1-DFI Lan party UT ultra D w/THERMALRIGHT HR-05-SLI passive northbride heatsink ... opinions which one i should test out first with my opteron 170 ccbbe 0615 .... going to be "Dealtime" with my extra 939 components when im finished ..










wow.. goin from a sandy to all out 939









hey i got both of those boards


----------



## nategr8ns

boonie, build a rig using an opty 170, 2GB of OCZ platinum edition memory, and that DFI board. Wait, you bought 3 opty 170s? WOW.
uber hacks ftw.


----------



## DanDaManZ06

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


I'm a firm believer the DFI mobo's are finicky with RAM settings. It never matter what CPU I used in it,but the RAM has always been an issue.

Remove two of the sticks of RAM then set the BIOS to default. See if it will POST after that. It is ALWAYS best to use RAM from the same set. The 3 sticks may be all the same G.Skill but the mobo won't like it and it will cause issues.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Read again GuardianOdin; he has 2 sticks of RAM. 1 is a gig, the other is two gigs.

Try using only the smaller stick to see if it will POST. Make sure that you have it in the slot the motherboard manual calls for.

EDIT: I just read your friend's manual. Try placing either stick of your choice in slot A1 as on page 2-11. When you put both in, did you have them in A1/A2 or A1/B1? A1/B1 will give you dual channel mode, but I think it more likely that A1/A2 will boot.

EDIT2: Wow... you can now see a version history of posts similar to Wikipedia!



Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


that link seems to be broken Blitz.

Edit: never mind. I see he's not using 939..my bad. Well either way. Two different sticks even from the same company doesn't mean they are going to work well with each other.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Very true. On similar vein, you will notice that G-Skill is not listed as a qualified vendor. While this does not necessarily mean it will not work, it does mean that ASUS tech support may be unresponsive until you try a QV.


yep its the ram... I tried to run it with the 2GB stick but it wouldn't post... so i tried just with the 1GB stick... posted normally... i guess i got a bad stick of ram...


----------



## nategr8ns

are there any 939 board that support 2gb sticks? I know mine can only use up to 1gb sticks








that might be it, not sure though.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Are there 2GB DIMMs for DDR?

That's news to me.

Learn something new everyday...


----------



## DanDaManZ06

no its DDR2... i was having a problem with my friends computer who uses M2N-SLI Deluxe(AM2)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hehe

You'd think someone with a handle such as "txtmstrjoe" would learn basic reading comprehension.









Thanks for the clarification, Dan. You are DA MAN!


----------



## DanDaManZ06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Hehe

You'd think someone with a handle such as "txtmstrjoe" would learn basic reading comprehension.









Thanks for the clarification, Dan. You are DA MAN!

















HAHAHA









no problem buddy


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
are there any 939 board that support 2gb sticks? I know mine can only use up to 1gb sticks








that might be it, not sure though.

Yes, there are. Further, there are 2 GB DDR sticks. They are however ECC only, so you need to ask yourself if you really need the 8 GB before buying such a board.


----------



## nategr8ns

^ answer is almost always no.

Daniel, you are the manual








it sounds better when it's not being typed


----------



## Blitz6804

Most likely yes.

Since removing 2 GB, more often than not, I am above 70% RAM utilization. I do not know how I am on total page file, everest does not monitor that in the tray. I cannot wait to get my other 2 GB in here. (About 3 weeks)


----------



## nategr8ns

^ for you maybe








most people won't use 8gb, so...

how are your OCZ platinum DDR sticks treating you? or are they not there yet?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Yes, there are. Further, there are 2 GB DDR sticks. They are however ECC only, so you need to ask yourself if you really need the 8 GB before buying such a board.


Well see, I do believe my board supports ECC memory, so I may just be good to go for 8GB of RAM (if I really wanted)!!!

And boonie:
I would personally also suggest you try out your ASUS motherboard first. The DFI will prove to more than likely get you a higher overclock, however the ASUS would probably prove to be an easier board to overclock with. DFI boards are REALLY REALLY finicky about the RAM settings. My ASUS board will overclock as high as I want...just using the auto settings. I don't use them anymore, BUT it can be done very easily.

Just my 2 cents.


----------



## Blitz6804

Pioneer has OCZ.

I have Mushkin Redline.


----------



## froggy1986

Just so ya'll know, if someone says something to me and I don't respond pio may for me. I will be up camping for a week so try to keep the chat somewhat calm for me so I don't come home to 20 new pages....lol j/k. Have a good week ya'll and don't have too much fun. Hope e1 has a fun and safe memorial weekend and day. Talk to ya'll in about a week.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *froggy1986*


Just so ya'll know, if someone says something to me and I don't respond pio may for me. I will be up camping for a week so try to keep the chat somewhat calm for me so I don't come home to 20 new pages....lol j/k. Have a good week ya'll and don't have too much fun. Hope e1 has a fun and safe memorial weekend and day. Talk to ya'll in about a week.


have fun!.....I'll be working as usual.


----------



## nategr8ns

camping, fun fun.
blitz, didn't you get platinums off eBay? I guess I found the wrong eBay screenname








I found the auction for the DFI board with the hr-05 SLI and clicked on the winning bidder







. I phail?


----------



## RAMDAC

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
Ok guys {and Ladies} just bought 2 motherboards .. 1-A8N32 sli {NEW} and 1-DFI Lan party UT ultra D w/THERMALRIGHT HR-05-SLI passive northbride heatsink ... opinions which one i should test out first with my opteron 170 ccbbe 0615 .... going to be "Dealtime" with my extra 939 components when im finished ..










Quote:


Originally Posted by *prosser13* 
Dfi!










Dito!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
RAMDAC: LOVE the setup! And please do take Blitz's advice and link us to a worklog, if you make one.









By the way, I've been lusting over that motherboard forever! I wish I could find one somewhere!









G.O.: I guess you can say I'm really a *FAN*boi!









My friends,
I'll try to serve you with a log but you see the frequency of my posts, so please do not await daily updates.









A propos update...
The Heatkiller for the SB is finished, and it looks just phenomenal!!!

















All MB coolers were polished and ready to go!









The Opty will be lapped until tomorrow and then I'm ready to go!


----------



## thlnk3r

Ramdac, looks great man! I love the finish. Perhaps I missed this in a previous page but did you fab the sb cooler?

Good luck


----------



## nategr8ns

^ he made some modifications to it so it would fit behind video cards









looks great, can't wait to see a full-loop pic and some temperatures!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
^ he made some modifications to it so it would fit behind video cards









Nate, thanks for the explanation


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
Good man. I can't stand sugar or milk/cream in mine.

lucky, mines usually at around 3000 or 5000, I can't remember which (it might be the range between though, never below 3k though)

damn, you must have outbid me on the dfi board...
*goes back to check bid logs*
lol

HAHAHA where you bidding on the one with the passive heat sink on the north bridge?


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
boonie, build a rig using an opty 170, 2GB of OCZ platinum edition memory, and that DFI board. Wait, you bought 3 opty 170s? WOW.
uber hacks ftw.

yeah ive got the one in my sig and bought 1 USED ccbbe 0615 with the old plain heatsink and fan and 1 NEW in box ccbbe 0615 with the newer heatpipe sink and fan .. got some good deals


----------



## nategr8ns

^ lol, I was for a little while, but it got too rich for my blood








I just looked at the winning bidder (you) and checked the feedback for other items








Its not just _any_ passive NB heatsink, its _the_ passive NB heatsink: the HR-05 SLI.
did you get the stock nb hsf too?


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Well see, I do believe my board supports ECC memory, so I may just be good to go for 8GB of RAM (if I really wanted)!!!

And boonie:
I would personally also suggest you try out your ASUS motherboard first. The DFI will prove to more than likely get you a higher overclock, however the ASUS would probably prove to be an easier board to overclock with. DFI boards are REALLY REALLY finicky about the RAM settings. My ASUS board will overclock as high as I want...just using the auto settings. I don't use them anymore, BUT it can be done very easily.

Just my 2 cents.


Thanks pioneer , been reading up on both boards and theyre bios , your right the DFIs gonna take alot of practice overclocking , since the DFIs used and the 32 is brand new I think ill set up with the A8N32 and the new 170 ccbbe 0615 and use the DFI in a folding rig


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


^ lol, I was for a little while, but it got too rich for my blood








I just looked at the winning bidder (you) and checked the feedback for other items








Its not just _any_ passive NB heatsink, its _the_ passive NB heatsink: the HR-05 SLI.
did you get the stock nb hsf too?


yeah got both of them , might have paid too much for it i know , but $90 is ok i think . I guess the guy only used it on the weekends playing games and surfing etc , at least thats what he said , talked to him on the phone for awhile , hes leaving for college on wenesday , it just shipped this morning so well see .. ok i know im taking up too much space so ill be quiet now


----------



## nategr8ns

its a good price since it comes with an hr-05 sli on it


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I don't think you could go wrong with either motherboard, boonie.









I've had the good fortune of owning both the A8N32-SLI Deluxe and the LANParty UT nF4 Ultra-D, and I must say that the Asus is probably more fun to play with than the DFI. I only say this because I've owned the Asus for far longer (and she was my first); the DFI really rewards an experienced, patient user. I'm still learning how to get the most of mine, to be honest.

Hope you have a great time exploring two fun motherboards!


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I don't think you could go wrong with either motherboard, boonie.









I've had the good fortune of owning both the A8N32-SLI Deluxe and the LANParty UT nF4 Ultra-D, and I must say that the Asus is probably more fun to play with than the DFI. I only say this because I've owned the Asus for far longer (and she was my first); the DFI really rewards an experienced, patient user. I'm still learning how to get the most of mine, to be honest.

Hope you have a great time exploring two fun motherboards!










Thanks Joe , yeah the DFI might be over my head for now as far as all the overclocking options , settings etc. buy hey , its gonna be fun figuring it out


----------



## Blitz6804

Was not someone here entering law school this coming fall? If so, I encourage you to watch "Law School Musical." For those who would rather read:

(Please note... I have modified the lyrics to comply with OCN's "no profanity" rule. Nothing overly potent, but it still bares mentioning. I realize now that my signature is in violation of the same, and am fixing it now.)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Law School Musical*

I used to think I was smart,
'til I came to law school.
I used to sleep at night,
'til I came to law school.
I used to have a life,
'til I came to law school.
I thought I was the <stuff>;
now I know I'm not <stuff>.
Thanks to law school.

I can't stand when I see
friends and family,
and they ask me
"how's law school?"
And I have to say something besides:
"It's driving me crazy!"
and "The work is endless!"
and "The stress is relentless!"
and "My arguments are defenseless!"
and "My choice of profession was senseless!"

You know, I used to have a a sense of humor,
'til I came to law school.
I never used to hear voices,
'til I came to law school.
I never had gray hairs,
'til I came to law school.
I thought I was the <stuff>;
now I know I'm not <stuff>.
Thanks to law school.

And it's One, L, life is hell!
Getting by on the cheapest <stuff> the liquor store sells.
This One, L, life is hell!
All I own are mashed potatos and a broke-<bum> Dell.
And this One, L, life is hell!
For everything I learn I forget something else.
And this One, L, life is hell!
It made me a shadow of my former self.

And they say it gets better,
but the damage is done:
I bleed "reasonableness" and "jurisdiction!"
The cases are scripture,
outlines are bibles,
professors are preachers,
and friends are my rivals.

And for now no-one'll hire me,
and if they did they'd sure fire me.
But I guess I'll be happy when I'm a retiree.
Because right now, I'm broke,
and my checkbook's my diary.
If you've got cash to spare,
could you please wire me...
I'll pay you back when I pass the bar...
and leave law school.


----------



## nategr8ns




----------



## Blitz6804

This is my last call before I leave for Florida. Like Froggy, I will be without internet until I return.

*I'm gonna die!*


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
This is my last call before I leave for Florida. Like Froggy, I will be without internet until I return.

*I'm gonna die!*

Sucker









Blitz, when do you get back?


----------



## nategr8ns

^ don't worry, its not as bad as you first think


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
This is my last call before I leave for Florida. Like Froggy, I will be without internet until I return.

*I'm gonna die!*

Hey Blitz stop buy we will pay you back that cup of coffee


----------



## txtmstrjoe

More fans!

Fan: *SilenX Ixtrema IXP-74-14B*
Dimensions: *120mm x 25mm*
Number of Blades: *Seven*
Maximum RPMs: *1400RPMs*
Airflow: *72CFM*
Noise: *14dBA*
Static Pressure: *Data not available*
Bearing Type: *Fluid Dynamic Bearings*
Voltage: *8-14V*
Current: *0.22A*

Here's a stock image of the fan lit up:









Here's a picture of mine:









And a shot from the inlet side:









txtmstrjoe's thoughts: This might be one of my absolute least favorite fans. Why do I dislike this one so much?

For one thing, it was a horrendously expensive fan. As I recall, I paid a touch over twenty bucks for one of these. I got two, and this particular one died within three days of me opening up the package. From the moment I sent power into it, it emitted an odd odor which I later discovered was the smell of fan motor grease. The little that this fan had burned away, and the fan seized. Thankfully, the vendor was satisfied with an online transmission of my invoice, and I was refunded for the cost of one of these horrid things.

(The second one hasn't died yet, but I absolutely refuse to use anything by SilenX now.)

I should have been alerted to the fan's suspect quality because it just feels so flimsy. It is easily one of the lightest 120mm fans I own; I have a 92mm fan that's a lot heavier than this thing. The plastic feels quite brittle as well. I have the impression that I could very easily break this fan with my bare hands, but the shards of cheap plastic would probably slice my hands to bloody shreds, so I've never bothered.

Another reason why I dislike this fan so much is because the manufacturer's claims for its performance are horrendously inflated. I don't have an anenometer to measure CFM output, but I'm very very sure that this fan produces far far less than the claimed 72CFM. How am I so sure? Well, I have some fans in my collection that allegedly produce less than 72CFMs, but they feel more powerful via the "hand test" (putting one's hand in the air pathway of the fan's outlet side). And I'm not the only one with a story of SilenX's fraudulent performance claims to tell. Many users have reported similar stories as mine, saying that while the fans are indeed quiet, they are also pretty gutless. An ant sneeze is more powerful than a SilenX Ixtrema.

I used two of these fans last year as case fans. Even with very low impedance, they seemed quite ineffective at moving air in any appreciable amount. Whilst a pair of these were mounted to my TJ09B-W, system temps were about four-to-six degrees C higher than any other fan mounted in the same positions.

There is no way I'll ever recommend using this fan for heatsink/radiator duty; they're simply just useless, in my opinion. About the only good thing I can say about these fans is that they have a beautiful shape; I like the small hub, as well as the aggressive appearance of the blades.

Unfortunately, in this fan's case, the beauty really was only skin deep, and it faded away rather quickly too.


----------



## GuardianOdin

That's to bad. I was going to order a few SilenX for my next build. Glad I read your review of them. Oh yeah, I'm going to start a part at a time for my next AMD rig. Probably start with the case. Most likely a CM case.


----------



## vwgti

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
That's to bad. I was going to order a few SilenX for my next build. Glad I read your review of them. Oh yeah, I'm going to start a part at a time for my next AMD rig. Probably start with the case. Most likely a CM case.

Any particular cm case you were looking at? This 690 was the best purchase Ive made in a while, and I got it from a forum member for cheap. Great space, wire management, and Im away to stuff a watercooling setup in it


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Heehee

thlnk3r now has my CM690. I believe he's pretty happy with it.









Excellent value for a case, in my opinion. Whether or not it can easily accommodate an internal WC system, though, is debatable.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vwgti* 
Any particular cm case you were looking at? This 690 was the best purchase Ive made in a while, and I got it from a forum member for cheap. Great space, wire management, and Im away to stuff a watercooling setup in it









That's going to depend on if I go water cooled or not. If I go Air then I'll want something with great airflow. If I go water cooled then it really won't matter as I won't need a ton of fans mounted to the case.

EDIT: Along with my other custom Mods, My boss has scrap aluminum that I could build a custom case from. I would start by buying/finding a fullsize ATX case frame I can add the new skin/plus Mods to. I believe he has scrap up to 48x72 inch or so "he's building a boat" and the thickness is about 1/8inch thick. I'd have to ask him to be sure. But the scrap sheets he has are nice and solid.


----------



## vwgti

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
That's going to depend on if I go water cooled or not. If I go Air then I'll want something with great airflow. If I go water cooled then it really won't matter as I won't need a ton of fans mounted to the case.

Well the case is also excellent for air cooling, many places for 90-120-140mm fans. It keeps everything cool on air, I just wanted to finally try out watercooling myself. Still a excellent choice for both air and water.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Heehee

thlnk3r now has my CM690. I believe he's pretty happy with it.









Excellent value for a case, in my opinion. Whether or not it can easily accommodate an internal WC system, though, is debatable.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *vwgti* 
Well the case is also excellent for air cooling, many places for 90-120-140mm fans. It keeps everything cool on air, I just wanted to finally try out watercooling myself. Still a excellent choice for both air and water.

CoolerMaster makes some beautiful cases for sure. If I'm not mistake they all use the same or similar sub frame.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Current parts

Now I know the DDR3 is a waste of money with these other components right now. I'll add and subtracting parts as new items become available. This is just an idea of where I want to go for now.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hehe, I quite like the CM Stackers.







I almost bought one (the 830) this past weekend, in fact. Fry's almost tempted me out of some of my dough.









Pretty boss looking build, G.O.! The mobo and proc, in particular, are quite tasty!

And thlnk3r can't stop raving about the soon-to-be-released 4xxx AMD video cards! He's almost talked me into considering buying one too.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Hehe, I quite like the CM Stackers.







I almost bought one (the 830) this past weekend, in fact. Fry's almost tempted me out of some of my dough.









Pretty boss looking build, G.O.! The mobo and proc, in particular, are quite tasty!

And thlnk3r can't stop raving about the soon-to-be-released 4xxx AMD video cards! He's almost talked me into considering buying one too.

oh yeah the new 4xxx cards! That's another reason the list will be changing







That and if DFI makes any new Mobo with the new SB750...I think it is SB750, but anyway I really looking forward to less power hungry VidCards. I really see no reason for 1000-1200watt PSU's


----------



## RAMDAC

Ok, I've started a log.









Horn Of Triton


----------



## MikeV_E36

I went up 1mhz on FSB and that's the last stable for this cpu. Fortunatelly I found someone willing to buy my CPU, so I think I'll go for an opty 165. What do you think for stepping CCB1E? Does anyone know any e-shop selling any 165 new? Thanks mates


----------



## thlnk3r

Joe, nice review on the SilentX fans. I'll remember to stay away from them









Ramdac, nice work log! I enjoyed reading that whole thing. The 2 x 3870 X2's are amazing.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
 

I went up 1mhz on FSB and that's the last stable for this cpu. Fortunatelly I found

Mikev, that's actually not a bad OC for a Manchester core. Those cores are typically voltage hungry when you start to reach 2.6-2.7Ghz. I have rarely seen any above 2.8Ghz so don't feel to bad if you couldn't go any higher.

Good job


----------



## prosser13

http://www.overclock.net/cyberdruidp...rogress-2.html

DDR600 for $50!

GET IT!


----------



## nategr8ns

I was so freaked out that I was going to miss the deal on the ddr600
but prosser, you had me going. I thought it would be a 2x1gb kit! LOL crazy sale that would have been. Its a kit of 2x256mb.


----------



## prosser13

For benching, that's still one hell of a kit


----------



## nategr8ns

true...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Thanks for the heads up, prosser!

A rule of thumb about RAM (I don't know if this is still true of DDR2/DDR3): The smaller the density of the RAM (i.e., the smaller the amount of it per DIMM), the higher the OCing potential it has. DDR500 seems to be the high end (on average) of 1GB DIMMs, though there are some ICs that can sustain higher speeds than DDR500. For example, the Infineon BE-5/6 and/or CE-5/6 that some Mushkin Redlines have (such as the kit running on my sig rig) can actually run up to ~DDR560 (mine do). For the most part, though, only DIMMs with much smaller densities than 1GB (256MB, some 512MB) can go a lot higher than DDR400.

I'm willing to wager that DDR600 prosser referenced is a set of legendary BH-5s. If so, that's an insanely low price for awesome benching RAM!


----------



## vwgti

Nice parts list, but there are better cpu coolers out there for the same money or a little more.


----------



## nategr8ns

ooooh.
I need a kit of 2x1gb though, so too bad


----------



## prosser13

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


ooooh.
I need a kit of 2x1gb though, so too bad










Try and find a kit of DDR500 G.Skill HZs...they are getting harder and harder to find and expect to pay $100 to $150 for a set but they are oh so nice


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
 

I went up 1mhz on FSB and that's the last stable for this cpu. Fortunatelly I found someone willing to buy my CPU, so I think I'll go for an opty 165. *What do you think for stepping CCB1E? Does anyone know any e-shop selling any 165 new?* Thanks mates

By reputation, CCB1E is one of the very best steppings available. Statistical averages (for what they're worth) suggest that chips from this batch should hit around 2.8GHz, with a good probability of hitting the magical 3.0GHz mark. Not to be a wet blanket, but unless you've got a reliable contact, I'd say it's almost impossible to get a CCB1E these days (they are from 2006), especially a sealed-in-the-box one.

Whether or not there are any more e-tailers selling Opteron 165s/170s these days, I would say it's highly unlikely. As of a couple of weeks ago, TigerDirect had Opteron 175s in stock, but I haven't checked their stock for this week. I believe that they may still have the Opty 185 in stock, but you pay such a huge premium for one.

Good luck finding an Opteron dual-core!


----------



## smb_

I picked up a NIB Opty180 for under $100 on eBay a few months ago ...newer stepping, but can do 3ghz stable with a little voltage bump.
It's nice having a higher divider (12x on the 180) if you're going to be overclocking!!


----------



## nategr8ns

great overclock! What voltages did you need? And what temps are you seeing?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *smb_* 
I picked up a NIB Opty180 for under $100 on eBay a few months ago ...newer stepping, but can do 3ghz stable with a little voltage bump.
It's nice having a higher divider (12x on the 180) if you're going to be overclocking!!









Smb, congrats on the overclock


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *prosser13*


Try and find a kit of DDR500 G.Skill HZs...they are getting harder and harder to find and expect to pay $100 to $150 for a set but they are oh so nice










yeah,they are a bit pricey but a good deal for the older socket 939. It still adds a nice advantage to them.


----------



## nategr8ns

I wish I could just convert my motherboard to DDR2... SOO MUCH CHEAPER!
$30 for 2gb of ddr2-800, or $100+ for 2gb of ddr-500.
makes no sense... Is ddr2 cheaper to manufacture?

I need some help. If you check my sig link to "all my threads" or whatever its called now, I have a thread asking help about my computer's "hiccups". The problem is not the CPU (unless I get 2 bad CPUs in a row), its not the memory (at least I don't think so, I don't have any other ddr, and I just sold 2x512 of it and buyer didn't get hiccups [few]), so it must be the motherboard, right?
What else could it be? PSU, tested all rails, they're putting out just over whats specified (12v, 5v, 3.3v) so its healthy. Could it be the hard-drives? Or just a bad peripheral I have plugged in?
I'm about to buy a new 939 motherboard, but want to double check that I have to first


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


I wish I could just convert my motherboard to DDR2... SOO MUCH CHEAPER!
$30 for 2gb of ddr2-800, or $100+ for 2gb of ddr-500.
makes no sense... Is ddr2 cheaper to manufacture?

I need some help. If you check my sig link to "all my threads" or whatever its called now, I have a thread asking help about my computer's "hiccups". The problem is not the CPU (unless I get 2 bad CPUs in a row), its not the memory (at least I don't think so, I don't have any other ddr, and I just sold 2x512 of it and buyer didn't get hiccups [few]), so it must be the motherboard, right?
What else could it be? PSU, tested all rails, they're putting out just over whats specified (12v, 5v, 3.3v) so its healthy. Could it be the hard-drives? Or just a bad peripheral I have plugged in?
I'm about to buy a new 939 motherboard, but want to double check that I have to first










sounds like a driver issue to me. Those will cause the entire system to freeze up. I had that before and reinstalled driver and it never happened again.


----------



## nategr8ns

all drivers? or video card drivers?
I may find a clean hard drive somewhere and do a fresh install to see, but then go back to my other HDD and back stuff up...
we shall see...


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


all drivers? or video card drivers?
I may find a clean hard drive somewhere and do a fresh install to see, but then go back to my other HDD and back stuff up...
we shall see...


reinstall both before you do a OS install.


----------



## nategr8ns

ok, I'll try that tonight, thanks!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


I need some help. If you check my sig link to "all my threads" or whatever its called now, I have a thread asking help about my computer's "hiccups". The problem is not the CPU (unless I get 2 bad CPUs in a row), its not the memory (at least I don't think so, I don't have any other ddr, and I just sold 2x512 of it and buyer didn't get hiccups [few]), so it must be the motherboard, right?
What else could it be? PSU, tested all rails, they're putting out just over whats specified (12v, 5v, 3.3v) so its healthy. Could it be the hard-drives? Or just a bad peripheral I have plugged in?
I'm about to buy a new 939 motherboard, but want to double check that I have to first










Nate, I remember your problems. I believe you've tried testing with a dedicated sound card correct? I remember asking if you tried disabling audio to see if your machine locks up. Did you try that?

Good luck


----------



## nategr8ns

I have already tried with onboard audio disabled. I did not try a dedicated sound card, but I figured disabling onboard would do the exact same thing (minus being able to listen to things of course







). The problems persisted, so I turned sound back on.
Just reinstalled drivers, I think it may be fixed... Listening to music (electric light orchestra) and folding, now I'm going to load bunches of firefox tabs to see if I get any hiccups...
gaming = next test









*edit*: well it lasted through about ~30 tabs of OCN homepage loading at once, then it gave me a mild hiccup (noticeable because of music playing). When I closed all tabs except this one (I reloaded it, and it was not done loading by the time it was the only tab open) and I had a slightly worse hiccup when the posts were loading, but not the "quick reply" box yet. I think it may be a firefox issue? Going to try NFS ProStreet, because the newer NFSs give me the worst hiccups normally.
I also may try Firefox3 RC1 because I already had it downloaded.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
Going to try NFS ProStreet, because the newer NFSs give me the worst hiccups normally.

Nate, can you describe the "hiccups" in detail again? If you disabled the audio then it's not driver related. If the hardware device was disabled then the drivers should have been disabled too. I'm leaning towards a hardware component.

Let us know

Good luck


----------



## nategr8ns

Its a short phase where the audio and video will repeat over and over again. Its like when you're in a multi-player game (TF2 for example) and you change the resolution. It gets all buggy, sort of like my hiccups.
oh by the way, no hiccups in NFSPS


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Its a short phase where the audio and video will repeat over and over again. Its like when you're in a multi-player game (TF2 for example) and you change the resolution.


Nate, does the entire machine lockup or does it continue after the "hiccups"?

Good luck


----------



## nategr8ns

it will continue after a very short time. less than 5 seconds every time, mostly less than 2 seconds.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


it will continue after a very short time. less than 5 seconds every time, mostly less than 2 seconds.


Nate, does this occur when everything is on stock? No overclock on the processor and video card? Have you tried swapping out memory, processor and video card?

Let us know

Good luck


----------



## nategr8ns

processor has been swapped, memory has not, video card has not.
problems still occur at stock.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


processor has been swapped, memory has not, video card has not.
problems still occur at stock.


Nate, I would start testing your memory with memtest. Run tests 5 and 8 each for at least an hour. You could also try swapping out each stick and see what kind of results you get there. I would do the same with your video card. If you have a spare PCI-E card that can handle games that would be great.
Have you modified your pagefile in any way?

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Perhaps related to pagefile use is a need to defrag it. I'm not sure, actually, if this can be done with the WinXP defragger (I use Diskeeper), but if it can, it's something you can try.

Good luck, nate!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Perhaps related to pagefile use is a need to defrag it. I'm not sure, actually, if this can be done with the WinXP defragger (I use Diskeeper), but if it can, it's something you can try.

Good luck, nate!









Joe, good advice on the diskeeper app. I currently use that at home and love it!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, good advice on the diskeeper app. I currently use that at home and love it!

It works a treat, don't it?


----------



## nategr8ns

I have defragged many many times with winxp fragmentor. I will try diskeeper!

Memtest comes up 100% after ~15 hours (although it was a while ago that I ran it).
that was with 4 sticks of memory, I now only have 2 sticks.

I can also try gaming with my 7900GS, but I don't think that the video card is related to the problem.
no problems occured in NFS-PS after a few hours of playing.


----------



## boonie2

HELP.......... driving me krazy ......... ok installed my a8n32 motherboard , triple checked all my plug ins to make sure everything is hooked up correctly ..push the power button , EVERYTHING powers on fine but it wont even post into bios tried everything i can think of , testing each component seperatley , hdd spins up , cpu ok , memory tried 2 then 1 stick , still no post even into bios????????? wasnt sure if my old drive in my sig would post switching from a8n deluxe to this a8n32 but even so i should still be able to post to bios right? am i missing something here?


----------



## alexgheseger

Have you reset the bios? They can crash over the funniest things...

Did you plug in your PC speaker? If it doesn't post, then something may be shot on the board, and the speaker will let you know just what it is.


----------



## nickbunyun

So..

where's my "welcome" basket of muffins ?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Welcome, nickbunyun! I hope you have a good time here as a member of Club S939!









And I do hope you enjoy your basket of muffins too.









@boonie: I think alex's advice is very good. I'd try a CMOS reset, just to rule out any previous settings borking your current attempts to boot with a whole new set of parts. And I like the recommendation to run a case speaker; I'm a firm advocate of installing one of these little babies in every build I make.

Good luck!


----------



## thlnk3r

Welcome to the club nickbunyun!









Boonie, if resetting the CMOS doesn't work try booting the board out of the case. Perhaps a stand-off or what not is shorting something. Disconnect optical drives and hard drives during testing. Do you have another PSU to test with?

Nate, throw in the 7900GS and play a few games. Let us know if you encounter the "hiccups" again









Good luck guys!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Orange and black attack!

Fan: *Thermaltake A2029*
Dimensions: *120mm x 25mm*
Number of Blades: *Nine*
Maximum RPMs: *~3500 RPM*
Airflow: *95.22 CFM*
Noise: *45 dBA*
Static Pressure: *6.57mm H2O*
Bearing Type: *2-Ball Bearing*
Voltage: *12V*
Current: *0.50A*

Here's an image from SVC.com:









Here's a picture of one of mine:









A view from the inlet side:









And here's an older picture of when I had two of these mounted on a Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme in a push-pull setup:









txtmstrjoe's thoughts: This fan looks aggressive, with its orange and black color scheme and its rakish blades. Unlike the SilenX Ixtremas, the A2029 delivers on the promises made by its appearance.

This is one of only three 120mm x 25mm fans that I've tested so far that I'll trust for radiator duty. It has the capacity to move air that rivals some of my 120mm x 38mm fans (and completely obliterates one such fan, in fact); even in terms of static pressure, it still generates enough oomph to work adequately with a heatsink with tightly-packed fins (like the Ultra 120 Extreme). It's not as efficient as a fan with the capacity to produce more static pressure, but it would be optimum for heatsinks such as the CoolerMaster GeminII, which has a less densely-packed fin distribution compared to typical Thermalright designs.

Revving up to 3500RPMs means that this is one seriously noisy fan. In fact, it rivals the 120mm x 38mm Delta FFB1212VHE in terms of noise output. The use of a variable voltage fan controller is strongly recommended if you value your hearing. The A2029 loses more performance than a typical 120mm x 38mm would when undervolted, which shows the relative inefficiency of a 120mm x 25mm fan in generating CFMs and static pressure compared to a thicker fan. My testing notes reveal that the loss in performance when running at less than full RPM can be as high as five to eight degrees Celsius (depending on ambient temperatures, of course). In contrast, the Delta FFB1212VHE's loss is five degrees Celsius in the worst testing conditions observed. Annoyingly, though, even at less than peak RPM, it's still a rather loud and noisy fan.

The noise generated is a mix of air hitting the heatsink fins as well as an escalating whirr of the motor. The motor noise rises noticeably as you feed more voltage into the fan. In fact, this fan's sound signature is what made me decide to swap it out. While it was effective enough, even for heatsink duty, it simply is too unpleasant to live with 24/7.

It's akin to a bulldozer, I'd say: It's impressively powerful at moving air (it's overkill as a case fan, which I've actually tried), but is a brute at doing so. Though it's not a premium fan by any stretch, its price is a little on the high side. Perhaps Thermaltake priced it not according to the sum of its characteristics, but simply by the sheer power of this fan. Prospective users who only look at the printed stats would be giddy about the A2029, but it's a mixed bag. If its power was allied with more refinement, more finesse, then I'd recommend the A2029 more strongly.

It's better than the "average" fan, but it falls far short of greatness. I really want to like this fan, but power is not the end-all-be-all for me. Its shortcomings are just this short of becoming a total deal-breaker for me.


----------



## nuklearwax

This is what my rig was able to pull in 3D Mark 06. So close to 12,000 yet so far. I think I'll try OCing the cards this weekend to see if I can get there.


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nuklearwax* 
This is what my rig was able to pull in 3D Mark 06. So close to 12,000 yet so far. I think I'll try OCing the cards this weekend to see if I can get there.









Nice job man! You've got my Intel rig beat......


----------



## nuklearwax

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Iceman0803* 
Nice job man! You've got my Intel rig beat......









Thanks. i really want to hit 12,000 well see this weekend. Nice weather we're having today here in AZ though.


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nuklearwax* 
Thanks. i really want to hit 12,000 well see this weekend. Nice weather we're having today here in AZ though.

Kind of odd actually lol. Weds. was 100 something degrees then Thurs was 70 something and rainy


----------



## nategr8ns

bad news about the board boonie. Keep us posted! (no pun intended, but I'll take it







)

I shall try the 7900gs. We shall see if my brother likes my 8800gt







.


----------



## thlnk3r

Joe, nice review on another fan as usual. Great info!









Nuklearwax, nice marks. Keep up the great work


----------



## boonie2

power unlpugged , cmos batt. out , jumpers moved and repl. batt. in , pluggted back in ......still no boot to bios , no beeps.........nada.......next step is to go thru and try each component i guess .... motherboard out of case and try isolating the problem that way ........ ill be pissed if ive been bitten by the EBAY fried components monster










































still have the DFI board comming next week so.......


----------



## alexgheseger

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
power unlpugged , cmos batt. out , jumpers moved and repl. batt. in , pluggted back in ......still no boot to bios , no beeps.........nada.......next step is to go thru and try each component i guess .... motherboard out of case and try isolating the problem that way ........ ill be pissed if ive been bitten by the EBAY fried components monster










































 still have the DFI board comming next week so.......

Sounds like you may have been. No post after CMOS reset AND no beeps probably means the bios is toast.


----------



## nategr8ns

whats the warranty like?
I wonder what ASUS' customer service is like...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
power unlpugged , cmos batt. out , jumpers moved and repl. batt. in , pluggted back in ......still no boot to bios , no beeps.........nada.......next step is to go thru and try each component i guess .... motherboard out of case and try isolating the problem that way ........ ill be pissed if ive been bitten by the EBAY fried components monster










































still have the DFI board comming next week so.......

Boonie, take out all of the memory and turn the motherboard on. Does it give you beep codes after that? Verify that you have your speaker in the right jumper.

Good luck


----------



## nategr8ns

ok guys, I still get hiccups with my 7900gs.
Only thing left is hard drives, maybe software. I shall try a new install of windows on a different hard drive.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
ok guys, I still get hiccups with my 7900gs.
Only thing left is hard drives, maybe software. I shall try a new install of windows on a different hard drive.

Nate, thanks for squaring that away. Now we know it's not your 7900GS. All though it could be a driver issue? Let us know how it goes after you reinstall Windows on another drive.

Good luck budy


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
whats the warranty like?
I wonder what ASUS' customer service is like...

Its from Ebay so i dont know if i can get away with an rma ..might try it tho if all else fails


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Boonie, take out all of the memory and turn the motherboard on. Does it give you beep codes after that? Verify that you have your speaker in the right jumper.

Good luck

lowered my standards to using an old "dinosaur"







DELL







while trying to figure out the problem , just switched the cpu , to my sig 170 that i know is good , then ill go for the memory swaps , psu etc...fingers crossed


----------



## boonie2

New cpu installed , 1gb good ocz , cmos batt out /in , jumpers switched , still no post to bios , took out the memory think3r and get no beep codes at all ... everything powers up hdd , cdrom , fans , gpu ..... only other thing i can think of is the psu but its a brand new antec trio 650w ..... frustration is killing me hahaha














...With all my rants , forgot to welcome the new people ........WELCOME


----------



## boonie2

ANYONE KNOW THE PHONE NUMBER FOR ASUS RMAs ?? cant find it anywhere


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
ANYONE KNOW THE PHONE NUMBER FOR ASUS RMAs ?? cant find it anywhere









I may still have it at home. It's to the California center, as I recall.

I'll check through my records when I return from dinner with my parents. If I forget, boonie, please PM me. Hopefully I still have that info stored away somewhere.


----------



## boonie2

Thanks Joe I think that may be my best bet , to try and RMA it


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
only other thing i can think of is the psu but its a brand new antec trio 650w

Boonie, try another PSU. Just because you have a new one doesn't mean it's good. Try that first. If you'd prefer the RMA request form, you can get to it by going here: http://vip.asus.com/eservice/usa_rmaserv.aspx

Good luck


----------



## boonie2

finally found the RMA number for ASUS its 1-510-739-3777 if anyone wants to jot it down ........... called and got an RMA number , ill be sending to them in the morning , wont ship till tuesday tho {memorial weekend}....think3r the PSU is good . using it now powering my old a8nsli deluxe , had to put that mobo back in for awhile , couldnt bear to use the DELL any longer hahahaha...... thanks guyz


----------



## iandroo888

hilo. was out of town down in LA for 2 days. ate too much. got fatter. back now. RMA'ed a 200gb to Seagate before goin on trip. got email saying imma get a 250gb back. sweet









gonna go pick up some tools and probably start working on my OCN case mod competition entry.. sorry.. wont be able to show you guys ;] dont want competition to see my stuff and cheat haha. hope my "idea" would work well. should be nothing like you've seen me do before!







(hopes to put u guys in anticipation) haha

still waiting for gaurdianodin to send me that mounting bracket so i can make my OC attempt on that rig. o well. temps dropped quite a bit in vegas. 57C and light rain. good OC'in weather haha.


----------



## nategr8ns

iandroo I am also entering the contest, but I think I'm going to start a new mod and enter that one instead.
My current mod is making me sand some steel, and its slow as heck... Not sure if I like how its turning out either, but oh well...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


finally found the RMA number for ASUS its 1-510-739-3777 if anyone wants to jot it down ........... called and got an RMA number , ill be sending to them in the morning , wont ship till tuesday tho {memorial weekend}....think3r the PSU is good . using it now powering my old a8nsli deluxe , had to put that mobo back in for awhile , couldnt bear to use the DELL any longer hahahaha...... thanks guyz










Sweet.

Was about to PM you the number just now.









I hope Asus treats you as well as they treated me last year.

Good luck, boonie!










@ ian: You were in L.A. and you didn't even say hi to either thlnk3r or me?









Low ambients FTW: It's a nippy 17.7 degrees C in my bedroom right now. OCCT-generated load temps are a steady 36 degrees for both cores.









(And that's with a fan running at 7V.







)


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


still waiting for gaurdianodin to send me that mounting bracket so i can make my OC attempt on that rig. o well. temps dropped quite a bit in vegas. 57C and light rain. good OC'in weather haha.


sending it Tuesday.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


iandroo I am also entering the contest, but I think I'm going to start a new mod and enter that one instead.
My current mod is making me sand some steel, and its slow as heck... Not sure if I like how its turning out either, but oh well...


 interesting. steel sanding. having fun?









Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Sweet.

Was about to PM you the number just now.









I hope Asus treats you as well as they treated me last year.

Good luck, boonie!









@ ian: You were in L.A. and you didn't even say hi to either thlnk3r or me?









Low ambients FTW: It's a nippy 17.7 degrees C in my bedroom right now. OCCT-generated load temps are a steady 36 degrees for both cores.









(And that's with a fan running at 7V.







)


gomenasai scorpion-kun, was busy (eating...). didnt really have enuf time







next time!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


sending it Tuesday.


sweet. that means... oc'ing next weekend! perfect timing i think.. may have case done by then!


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
 interesting. steel sanding. having fun?









well its more of grinding... I want to get the inside of a hole soft to the touch, so I'm grinding it down bit by bit (I used a cutting disc to cut it, don't worry







).
Its terribly slow work...


----------



## GuardianOdin

wow,got to looking at the members list today...impressive! I like to give a late welcome to our newest members as well. Life has been keeping me really busy the last few days guys. I have been checking into school for computers as well as working doubles and getting my submission ready for DC and Marvel comics. Wish me luck.....woot!


----------



## nategr8ns

ooh a comic book artist








interesting. Wait, are you submitting it to DC and Marvel, incase it only gets accepted to one or what? I'm a little slow, sorry...


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
ooh a comic book artist








interesting. Wait, are you submitting it to DC and Marvel, incase it only gets accepted to one or what? I'm a little slow, sorry...

It's just a 5-6 page Batman story. There is no text in these just panels Illustrating different elements such as people/building/cars and such. Basically showing that I can draw these things when need be. I have been published before,but I've been out of game for a while and trying to get back in. My first time published was with Dreamwave Comics on Transformers:More Than Meets the Eye books 2-7. It was fun,but I'll never touch another Transformers project again.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Oh wow!

I'll have to look for those Dreamwave books.

What was so bad about working on Transformers, G.O., if you don't mind me asking?


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


It's just a 5-6 page Batman story. There is no text in these just panels Illustrating different elements such as people/building/cars and such. Basically showing that I can draw these things when need be. I have been published before,but I've been out of game for a while and trying to get back in. My first time published was with Dreamwave Comics on Transformers:More Than Meets the Eye books 2-7. It was fun,but I'll never touch another Transformers project again.


Wow that's impressive man! I hope you get published again. When will you know whether or not you will?


----------



## nategr8ns

I'm going to have to look for those dreamwave books








Were futuristic robots too hard or something







? It seems like it would be...


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Oh wow!

I'll have to look for those Dreamwave books.

What was so bad about working on Transformers, G.O., if you don't mind me asking?


In the beginning it was a blast,but they when Dreamwave decided to spot paying the artist it turned ugly. Then we had no support from Hasbro on the matter.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Iceman0803*


Wow that's impressive man! I hope you get published again. When will you know whether or not you will?


It's going to be a while. I still have draw the pages. I only have them roughed out right now. Kind of hard to find the time right while working doubles and working when new hires call off.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


I'm going to have to look for those dreamwave books








Were futuristic robots too hard or something







? It seems like it would be...


Actually they are easier to draw than people. They are just a bunch of shapes where as people are a lot more fluid. The books are about 4 years old now I think.

Thanks for the words guys. I'll post some pages when I finish them.


----------



## nategr8ns

just make sure you get copyright protection on them first








theres millions of people that view these forums, you never know!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


just make sure you get copyright protection on them first








theres millions of people that view these forums, you never know!


no worries there,they would have to deal with DC Comics. Trust me,if I could copyright Batman....I'd be happy.......


----------



## txtmstrjoe

As a wee little txtmstrjoe, I used to draw and write my own comic books.







Loved doing Transformers most of all. I wasn't very good at it, of course; it was just something really really fun, an activity to occupy the hands and mind of a pre-teen. I think I stopped that as a hobby when I was fourteen or so, when my family emigrated to the States.

Now I just sketch doodles for my nephews and for my own amusement.

I've seen G.O.'s work; it's exceptional! A true *ARTIST*, our friend is.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Thanks Joe! Where did your family come from?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Thanks Joe! Where did your family come from?

The Philippines.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
The Philippines.









woot!....Now I know 6-7 guys from the Philippines. Most of them are in the Illustration biz too


----------



## pioneerisloud

Alrighty, been gone for quite some time....what have I missed?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Alrighty, been gone for quite some time....what have I missed?


Joe reviewed a fan, OG draws batman comics, iandroo is a nut case, boonie rma'ed something... I think that's it?


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Joe reviewed a fan, OG draws batman comics, iandroo is a nut case, boonie rma'ed something... I think that's it?


hahahahaha yeah thats about it


----------



## nategr8ns

you left me out









I think that the only thing I've posted about is my hiccup problem, which I think is caused by software issues or a harddrive issue. I took out both of my drives (IDE) and installed XP on a freshly formatted 10/12gb IDE drive. I didn't get any problems in firefox, but I did not try firefox while folding and listening to WMP. The whining of the drive was driving me crazy, so I decided that I would load music, FAH, and orthos onto my slave drive and try again (with earplugs







)

I forgot the annoying sounds computers used to make... I guess fans are the only thing I've worried about for a while now...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


you left me out









I think that the only thing I've posted about is my hiccup problem, which I think is caused by software issues or a harddrive issue. I took out both of my drives (IDE) and installed XP on a freshly formatted 10/12gb IDE drive. I didn't get any problems in firefox, but I did not try firefox while folding and listening to WMP. The whining of the drive was driving me crazy, so I decided that I would load music, FAH, and orthos onto my slave drive and try again (with earplugs







)

I forgot the annoying sounds computers used to make... I guess fans are the only thing I've worried about for a while now...










I don't remember if this has been mentioned, but maybe it's the fact that you're doing so many things all at once (FAH, Firefox - a known RAM hog -, and WMP) that's causing the hiccups and stutters. There's a finite amount of resources in any system; FAH uses all of your spare clock cycles and RAM, and Firefox has a well-known memory leak as well.

I guess one way to test whether or not you get hiccups is to stop FAH momentarily, then try Firefox and WMP together. I'm willing to wager you'll have far less system slowdowns.

Anyway, good luck nate! Hope this helps.


----------



## nategr8ns

I just had the hiccup with only firefox open, 2 windows: 1 tab and 5 tabs.
I'm going to do a reformat anyway I think, I'm pretty sure I backed everything up


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Good luck, nate!









Hope the reformat is the cure. It usually fixes everything.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Joe reviewed a fan, OG draws batman comics, iandroo is a nut case, boonie rma'ed something... I think that's it?


what the heck. T_T how mean. i barely posted on here past week or so and im being called a nut T_T *sniff sniff*

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


you left me out









I think that the only thing I've posted about is my hiccup problem, which I think is caused by software issues or a harddrive issue. I took out both of my drives (IDE) and installed XP on a freshly formatted 10/12gb IDE drive. I didn't get any problems in firefox, but I did not try firefox while folding and listening to WMP. The whining of the drive was driving me crazy, so I decided that I would load music, FAH, and orthos onto my slave drive and try again (with earplugs







)

I forgot the annoying sounds computers used to make... I guess fans are the only thing I've worried about for a while now...










hmm.. whats the specs on this rig?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I don't remember if this has been mentioned, but maybe it's the fact that you're doing so many things all at once (FAH, Firefox - a known RAM hog -, and WMP) that's causing the hiccups and stutters. There's a finite amount of resources in any system; FAH uses all of your spare clock cycles and RAM, and Firefox has a well-known memory leak as well.

I guess one way to test whether or not you get hiccups is to stop FAH momentarily, then try Firefox and WMP together. I'm willing to wager you'll have far less system slowdowns.

Anyway, good luck nate! Hope this helps.










yah firefox takes up a lot of ram... esp if its been open for a while and uve done a lot on it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


I just had the hiccup with only firefox open, 2 windows: 1 tab and 5 tabs.
I'm going to do a reformat anyway I think, I'm pretty sure I backed everything up










reformat ftw.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Good luck, nate!









Hope the reformat is the cure. It usually fixes everything.










lol. as i said.. reformat ftw.. haha

anyway.. a little update for what ive been doing (forgot if i posted here yet)

was in LA for 3 days last week (sorry to those who live there.. didnt have time to visit). got my hands on a big sheet (3' x 8') black tinted acrylic. started workin on my RocketFish full tower case yesterday.. did some cuts. went thru a few discs (doh...) went to Harbor Freight and Lowes. picked up a 4.5" hole saw, some hand files, and stuff.. Made some templates and files some edges down earlier after i got back. hope i can make it look nice enough to not need C/U Channel. Hope this will look good for my OCN Case Mod Entree


----------



## nategr8ns

wow you must work really fast!
I've asked this question in lots of places, but do any of you guys know good ways to sand steel? I just got a sanding and grinding accesory set for my Dremel, and the steel grinding wheels are really slow... I have a round file somewhere, I want to compare its speed to the dremel grinding wheel...
Formatting to NTFC right now







. 1% ftw!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Joe reviewed a fan, OG draws batman comics, iandroo is a nut case, boonie rma'ed something... I think that's it?


lol nutcase....


----------



## alexgheseger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


wow you must work really fast!
I've asked this question in lots of places, but do any of you guys know good ways to sand steel? I just got a sanding and grinding accesory set for my Dremel, and the steel grinding wheels are really slow... I have a round file somewhere, I want to compare its speed to the dremel grinding wheel...
Formatting to NTFC right now







. 1% ftw!


I use just aluminum oxide sandpaper, and a random orbit sander.

If you don't have a random orbit sander, just take a block of wood, and wrap the sandpaper around it, and go nuts...

start with 100 grit though, otherwise you'll be stuck sanding for the rest of your natural life.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


wow you must work really fast!
I've asked this question in lots of places, but do any of you guys know good ways to sand steel? I just got a sanding and grinding accesory set for my Dremel, and the steel grinding wheels are really slow... I have a round file somewhere, I want to compare its speed to the dremel grinding wheel...
Formatting to NTFC right now







. 1% ftw!


*NTFS

sand steel... other then getting a belt sander... or wrapping a block with sandpaper... nope..

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


lol nutcase....










T_T gimme that mount bracket! rawr!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexgheseger*


I use just aluminum oxide sandpaper, and a random orbit sander.

If you don't have a random orbit sander, just take a block of wood, and wrap the sandpaper around it, and go nuts...

start with 100 grit though, otherwise you'll be stuck sanding for the rest of your natural life.


^agreed..

why u sanding metal anyway


----------



## nategr8ns

case mod competition








I may end up doing a different mod instead, I think it will look better in the end (no details on either mod though







)

Its for the inside of a fan hole, so I don't think using a sanding block (or wood) will work very well... and no, I don't even know what a random orbit sander is...


----------



## nategr8ns

I'm still trying to get my new XP installation working... I had backed up an SP2 installation program and all my drivers, so that was... nice?
When I tried to install windows, it gave me these errors saying it needed files on the CD: please insert the CD blah blah blah, even though the CD was in the drive. When I hit browse to look for the files it needed, I didn't even see my drive, so I hit cancel and it skipped the files.
It booted fine, so I got in, no fancy XP visuals, just the "windows classic" appearance, which is what I use anyway... I got most of the extra stuff installed by going to my CD, and running "install optional programs" or something. I still don't have activation wizard though -.-. So I installed my motherboard drivers and SP2. Still can't get internet, even after trying 2 different ethernet drivers. Can't get anything out of onboard or my addon card.
I have a CD of TinyXP SP2, which I think is legal because I own XP, but I'm not sure... It's really easy to set up and it comes with all drivers I need so I can get straight to work, skipping all the painful set up of XP. Should I use it?
currently I'm trying to repair my installation using the disk, so I'll see how that goes.
I don't like staying up late, so as soon as its done I'm going to bed


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
When I tried to install windows, it gave me these errors saying it needed files on the CD: please insert the CD blah blah blah, even though the CD was in the drive. When I hit browse to look for the files it needed, I didn't even see my drive, so I hit cancel and it skipped the files.

Nate, do you have another optical drive that you could use? Perhaps the cable going from your board to your optical drive is also bad or maybe the optical drive is dirty inside? What's the condition of the CD?

Good luck


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


wow you must work really fast!
I've asked this question in lots of places, but do any of you guys know good ways to sand steel? I just got a sanding and grinding accesory set for my Dremel, and the steel grinding wheels are really slow... I have a round file somewhere, I want to compare its speed to the dremel grinding wheel...
Formatting to NTFC right now







. 1% ftw!


try and find some "emory paper" i think thats how you spell it , made especially for sanding metal , thicker paper and tougher grit than regular sandpaper , comes in different grits . auto parts stores maybe or a body shop supply


----------



## GuardianOdin

Hey nategr8ns. make the BIOS is set to boot from CD. I have over looked that myself when installing Windows...so it happens sometimes.


----------



## nategr8ns

thinker, I do, but its too late, I've already installed tinyXP. Got everything running at 11:59 PM and didn't feel like posting anymore







.
I don't think you guys understand though, the problem is within the Windows installation. Do you guys remember how it has the 5 or 6 bullets on the left, and then a "time until completed" and a progress bar (all on the left)? When it gets to the "installing windows" bullet, it gets near the end, and than asks for the windows XP CD because it needs some files on it. The problem is that the CD drive doesn't even appear when I hit browse and go to my computer, so windows is not recognizing it (even though I loaded the windows installer from it!)
I may just burn a new CD and include the files that it keeps losing, i don't know what...
boonie, would that stuff work better than a file if I can find my found one?


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


thinker, I do, but its too late, I've already installed tinyXP. Got everything running at 11:59 PM and didn't feel like posting anymore







.
I don't think you guys understand though, the problem is within the Windows installation. Do you guys remember how it has the 5 or 6 bullets on the left, and then a "time until completed" and a progress bar (all on the left)? When it gets to the "installing windows" bullet, it gets near the end, and than asks for the windows XP CD because it needs some files on it. The problem is that the CD drive doesn't even appear when I hit browse and go to my computer, so windows is not recognizing it (even though I loaded the windows installer from it!)
I may just burn a new CD and include the files that it keeps losing, i don't know what...
boonie, would that stuff work better than a file if I can find my found one?


maybe use both , get the burrs off with the file and smooth the edges down with the emory paper...thats what i used when i modded this case for my cables , then some rubber u-channel if your drilling holes , {but u know that already lol}


----------



## nategr8ns

I was really hoping to avoid u-channel as much as possible, so I shall see how smooth I can get it


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


I was really hoping to avoid u-channel as much as possible, so I shall see how smooth I can get it


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


I was really hoping to avoid u-channel as much as possible, so I shall see how smooth I can get it










ditto... trying to avoid u-channel as well. trying to get as straight/round and smooth as i can... what are you using to do it?

im using a hand file to sand it down to the "correct" look.. then using dremel sander thingy to smooth it out.. if not sandpaper and doing it by hand


----------



## nategr8ns

I still can't find my round file, but round cuts are the only thing I've done so far that needs sanding. I may just buy another file, my dad and brother don't really know how to clean the work bench when they're done, and the file probably got buried in a pile somewhere (I just cleaned the bench a few weeks ago, and saw the file!) I have some sanding and grinding bits for the dremel that I use too, but the... I forgot I had this tab open, and I just got back from Ace hardware. They didn't have ANY sandpaper above about 400 grit except for wet/dry 600 and wet/dry 1500. I already have both of those! WHY WASN'T THERE ANY 800/1000/1200?!? I also got a sheet of 50 grit emery cloth


----------



## thlnk3r

Nate, not to get off topic or anything but how did the reinstall go with your machine? Are you still experiencing issues (hiccups)?

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Pulled from my old Antec P180

Fan: *Antec 120mm TriCool (Black)*
Dimensions: *120mm x 25mm*
Number of Blades: *Seven*
Maximum RPMs: *2000RPM (Variable between 1,200/1,600/2,000RPM)*
Airflow: *39 / 56 / 79CFM*
Noise: *25/28/30dBA*
Static Pressure: *0.92mm H2O/1.53mm H2O/2.54mm H2O*
Bearing Type: *Ball*
Voltage: *10.2V ~ 13.8V*
Current: *12V*

Here's a photo of the Antec TriCool (sitting next to its fraternal twin, the Antec TriCool LED fan), from SPCR:









Here's a photo of one of mine:









And one from the inlet side:









(Please pardon the slightly out-of-focus shots)

txtmstrjoe's thoughts: I had two of these fans; both came stock with my old Antec P180. One was sacrificed to txtmstrjoe's curiosity a couple of years ago and became the subject of a fan autopsy -- I disassembled the fan just to have a look at the innards -- and was disposed of soon thereafter.

What's immediately obvious just by looking at the supplied pictures is that it has a built-in speed switch. It is a tri-position switch, with three stops labeled "L," "M," and "H." Switching from one position to another, the fan does change speeds; whether or not it does so and performs at the advertised performance specs is another question altogether as it doesn't come equipped with an RPM sensor.

Based purely on the "hand test" (i.e., putting one's hand directly in the air stream on the fan's output end), this fan fails to impress. I'd dare say that the maximum airflow rating is grossly overrated. Compared even to fans with less optimistic airflow ratings, this fan has very poor performance.

As a case fan, it's very underwhelming. Even on "H," it did a poor job of moving air in my old P180. When I replaced the Antec TriCools with aftermarket fans, system temperatures improved by about three degrees C.

Setting the fan to max RPM, the fan gets real buzzy and annoying. The motor's noise signature is a low-frequency whirr. That's not so good if you can actually hear a low-frequency noise that audibly, as low-frequency sounds are harder to hear than higher frequency sounds. You can really tell it's not a high-powered fan because when you put a grill to impede the fan's output, you don't hear any noise at all from the air molecules colliding with the grill.

This fan may look like it has no pretensions whatsoever, but the reality is that it's a major league liar. It's a boring fan, to be honest, and one which is almost useless. I would never trust this fan (or any of its LED variants) for heatsink/radiator duty. Like the SilenX IXP-74-14B, its performance specs are far too optimistic to be credible. I wouldn't even use this as a case fan. I dislike this fan so much I wouldn't even consider giving it away or selling it.


----------



## thlnk3r

Joe, thanks for another wonderful fan review. I'll remember to stay away from those. Though I feel my Coolermaster 120mm silent fans are identical to those









Nice job Joe


----------



## nategr8ns

the installation went well, but the hiccups still occur, even without [email protected] running.

Great guide joe! I'll remember not to get any of those ones << >>


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
the installation went well, but the hiccups still occur, even without [email protected] running.

Nate, maybe there is something wrong with your motherboard that we don't know about. Your running the latest nForce 4 chipset drivers correct? Do you have another S939 motherboard to test with? That would be interesting









Good luck


----------



## nategr8ns

I do not








maine is kind of a technology-free zone. nobody here knows what a "socket is" other than me and maybe one friend. I don't think I'm going to be able to find a 939 board locally. I can check my basement though, was 939 around during the SDRAM era? The only boards I have lying in my basement are SDRAM boards


----------



## froggy1986

HOLY WOW! I sure did miss a lot of chat. Ya guys deffinatly gave me lots to come home to. Good news in it all though, I made pio realize that he actually does like camping, so I will get to go up more like the good old days. Anyways just wanted to thank ya'll for giving me lots of reading material to come back to.


----------



## alexgheseger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


I do not








maine is kind of a technology-free zone. nobody here knows what a "socket is" other than me and maybe one friend. I don't think I'm going to be able to find a 939 board locally. I can check my basement though, was 939 around during the SDRAM era? The only boards I have lying in my basement are SDRAM boards










No, i do not believe so. I think from socket A onwards, they were all DDR.


----------



## nategr8ns

greetings froggy! how was your camping trip?
and wheres pioneer?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


I do not








maine is kind of a technology-free zone. nobody here knows what a "socket is" other than me and maybe one friend. I don't think I'm going to be able to find a 939 board locally. I can check my basement though, was 939 around during the SDRAM era? The only boards I have lying in my basement are SDRAM boards










Nate, are you running the latest nvidia nForce 4 drivers? Are those two hard drives IDE or SATA?

Good luck

EDIT: Welcome back Froggy


----------



## froggy1986

Ok I have finally caught back up with the missed convos. Welcome new members that have joined while I was away this past week.

Ok so while reading I wasn't really paying 100% to who said what so I will just pretty much generalize here. 
Thanks Joe for the fan reviews, good to know info in them.

Good luck to you few who are doing the case mod competition. Has the steal sanding/grinding been figured out and working for ya?

And the hiccups??? Are you still having just as many problems since the reinstall?

OK I think that pretty much summed it all up for the most part. 
Thanks for the welcome back guys. The camping trip was great, a bit rainy but GREAT. Pioneer finally realized just how much fun camping is, and how relaxing, and wants to do it again soon. YAY FOR ME!!! This years memorial weekend was alot better than last year in a few aspects but also sucked kinda. There were ALOT less people this year, that was the main sucky part. The only really bad thing that happened this year is that my dog got bit by a wolf that someonebrought up there, my dog was sticking up for my moms little dog who thinks she's big and bad. He has a little cut right by his eye, but hes fine other than that. Pio also had to come and get me saturday night because one of my cats was meowing a funky meow and wasn't eating, so I came home for the night then went back up yesterday, and now my cats fine he was just missing me. The good thing was that there were none of the idiots from last year. Last year someone threw a CO2 canaster into the fire, it was nice not to have the fire blow up right in front of me again. Thursday or Friday night I actually got pioneer to drink with me, he's so lucky to be such a light weight. I found out that I don't like being able to drink because pio was keeping track and yeah, it was bad, I preffer not knowing from now on, and I will just leave it at that.

As for pio right now, he's at work. Will be home in about 4 hours or so. I'm sure he will get straight onto his comp and come check out what all he missed as well.

Welcome again to the new members of the club and thanks again for my welcome back.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Nate, are you running the latest nvidia nForce 4 drivers? Are those two hard drives IDE or SATA?

Good luck

EDIT: Welcome back Froggy









latest drivers and IDE.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *froggy1986* 
And the hiccups??? Are you still having just as many problems since the reinstall?

Still having the same problems, even with just one app open.

Hehe co2 in the fire, thats bad. You're supposed to use batteries and bullets! (just kidding!)
sounds like a fun trip! I don't really go camping that much, I sort of have dirt-a-phobia or something...
what did you say about







?
Pio ->







<- Froggy








edit: actually it was probably the other way around


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
what did you say about







?
Pio ->







<- Froggy








edit: actually it was probably the other way around









HAHAHA! Actually, he was amazed that the way you said, wasn't me...once he told me exactly how many shots I had, so was I. Neither of us actually passed out or got sick, he found out that he REALLY likes um... "chocolate cake" I think that was one of his fav things of the whole time he was there.

As for the dirt thing, it took me 3 years to get pioneer to go up with me for that same reason, mixed with the idea of bugs and cold.

I forgot. Another update... When I got home, I came back to a MSI NX8800 GTS OC edition.That was a darn good welcome home gift, since my PSU is too weak for my sli 8600







I still gotta go update sig rig though.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Welcome back, froggy!

Re: your new MSI NX8800 GTS OC Edition: Wanna trade?


----------



## vwgti

Well guys I have my watercooling setup installed, and am trying to see if I can get 3.2 to stabilize on my opty. Ive tried as high as 1.45 volts for although cpuz states its getting no more than 1.39 anything over 1.4 set in bios. My ram timings are all on auto except the basics, 3-3-2-8 at 2t with the 133 divider. This isnt stable, any suggestions on what to try next? Thanks guys.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vwgti* 
Well guys I have my watercooling setup installed, and am trying to see if I can get 3.2 to stabilize on my opty. Ive tried as high as 1.45 volts for although cpuz states its getting no more than 1.39 anything over 1.4 set in bios. My ram timings are all on auto except the basics, 3-3-2-8 at 2t with the 133 divider. This isnt stable, any suggestions on what to try next? Thanks guys.

I'd boost the VCore, for sure, no matter what CPU-Z is telling you it's getting.

If you have Everest Ultimate, that should give you more accurate VCore readings. With water cooling, I'd be more liberal with VCore than I would ever be on air. (This from a guy who, in a fit of madness, once sent *1.7V* into his Opteron 170 @ 3.2GHz on air cooling trying to see if it could run stable at that speed + VCore...)

Question: Have you enabled CPU Overvolt in the BIOS?


----------



## vwgti

Not as of yet, I do notice when that is enabled temps do rise which indicates more voltage just havnt enabled it yet since I got the watercooling running today. The only way the os boots and runs super pi 32m successfully is with all the subtimings on auto, didnt know if you had suggestions on the subs. So maybe enable overvolt and see where I get to? Also Ive never seen gains with more northbridge voltage, have you?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Negative on the subtimings right now; I wouldn't trust my memory (pun not intended) and tell you what I've got running at the moment. I'll have to shut my rig down and write what I've got.

I used to run with NB Overvolt, but like you I've never seen any real gains with it enabled.

CPU Overvolt does increase the temps markedly because Asus adds .2V (at least) to whatever you set your VCore at. For example, if you set it at 1.4V, you're actually sending 1.6V into your CPU.

I'll have to shut down this rig and write down my RAM settings as I have them at the moment.


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Welcome back, froggy!

Re: your new MSI NX8800 GTS OC Edition: Wanna trade?


















Thanks for the welcome back Joe. As for the trade, thanks but no thanks. I am finally getting up there with pioneers rig, I don't need to start going back downwards.


----------



## vwgti

Well no needs right now joe, but thanks for all the input and look forward to seeing those ram sub timings. Im gonna go restart and enable overvolt at 1.3 vcore and see what happens after that.

Edit watercooling rocks, at 1.3 + .2 = 1.5 Im loading at 42c, gotta love it.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Some screenshots for vwgti (whose machine is a near-clone of my sig rig).




































Hope this helps!


----------



## vwgti

Wow thanks a heap joe, I will dibble dabble in that area later. Well I just passed a 30min occt test on cpu/ram, looking good. Now Ive always used orthos for final stability testing, what would you suggest? OCCT or Orthos? also what test and what priority?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


latest drivers and IDE.


Nate, disconnect your slave drive and see if the problems remain. Have you tried a different IDE cable for testing purposes? What kind of drives are these? Please include brand and model number.

Thank you









Quote:



Originally Posted by *vwgti*


Wow thanks a heap joe, I will dibble dabble in that area later. Well I just passed a 30min occt test on cpu/ram, looking good. Now Ive always used orthos for final stability testing, what would you suggest? OCCT or Orthos? also what test and what priority?


Vwgti, I would go with Orthos after the OCCT stress test but that's just me








Make sure to run Orthos for at least 7-8hrs at priority 9 with the blend test.

Good luck


----------



## vwgti

Yeah thik3r thats what Ive always done, and have started up a small fft priority 9 test, since my ram is below stock at stock timings it shouldnt be a issue. If the cpu is stable at 3.2, then Ill tweak the ram and run a blended test. Thanks for the input.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vwgti*


Yeah thik3r thats what Ive always done, and have started up a small fft priority 9 test, since my ram is below stock at stock timings it shouldnt be a issue. If the cpu is stable at 3.2, then Ill tweak the ram and run a blended test. Thanks for the input.


Vwgti, no problem. Good luck with your OC at 3.2Ghz.

What is current stable OC with your Opteron 170? I was able to get into Windows at 3.2Ghz at 1.5volts if I remember correctly. What voltage are you running when testing at 3.2Ghz?


----------



## vwgti

I was/am stable at 3.0 at 1.35, for 3.2 I have cpu overvolt enabled, so with 1.3 its giving me 1.51. I was also able to boot with the same settings on air, but now on water Im trying again. With load temps of only 44c and orthos now running for 23minutes, I have beaten out my air cooler same settings which yielded loads of 65+c and erroring in 12 minutes or below. Its starting to look like heat may have been my issue after all. I will keeps you all posted.

Edit: cpuz reports after vdroop, 1.488, fingers crossed it holds it own and Im actually stable.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vwgti*


I was/am stable at 3.0 at 1.35, for 3.2 I have cpu overvolt enabled, so with 1.3 its giving me 1.51. I was also able to boot with the same settings on air, but now on water Im trying again. With load temps of only 44c and orthos now running for 23minutes, I have beaten out my air cooler same settings which yielded loads of 65+c and erroring in 12 minutes or below. Its starting to look like heat may have been my issue after all. I will keeps you all posted.

Edit: cpuz reports after vdroop, 1.488, fingers crossed it holds it own and Im actually stable.


Vwgti, same here. Only reason why I didn't keep it at 1.5volts was because of the full load temps I was getting in Orthos. Hopefully your H2O setup will get you past that.

Good luck


----------



## pioneerisloud

My dear god, I'm missing a possibility of an Opteron 170 hitting 3.2Ghz stable????? Oh I am SOO subscribed to this thread!

BTW, joe:
You don't want her 8800GTS anyways. The part that she forgot to mention (probably didn't realize mattered), is the fact that its an 8800GTS 320MB card. Its still a GREAT card for her though since she doesn't game heavy games. If you're still interested in a trade, I'm sure she'd take your 8800GT off your hands







!

I'm not even going to attempt to go through everything I missed, so I just went back to my last post from yesterday (I think).

To recap:
Yes, I know iandroo is a nut. We all know that







.

Nate: Sorry about your problems with your rig man. Have you gotten it all sorted out?

joe: Thanks for the fan reviews. I now know who to ask advice from for future fan purchases







.

If I missed something or someone, I appologize. It's been a while since I've been here, lol.

Oh, and a VERY warm welcome to all our newer members to this religion we call a club here. This welcome is coming straight from the head boob of the 939 club







(am I still the head boob?).


----------



## vwgti

Well to keep you entertained pioneerisloud, heres a screeny of the progress, enjoy!!!!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vwgti*


Well to keep you entertained pioneerisloud, heres a screeny of the progress, enjoy!!!!


MY GOD! GIMME YOUR CHIP AND COOLER!!!!!

No seriously though, that is AMAZING!!!! You're making me want to try out the wet side REALLY bad now...because I just KNOW I've got a golden chip....just like yours and thinkerbell's. Its just the cooling that's the issue. My god...that's all I have to say!


----------



## vwgti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


MY GOD! GIMME YOUR CHIP AND COOLER!!!!!

No seriously though, that is AMAZING!!!! You're making me want to try out the wet side REALLY bad now...because I just KNOW I've got a golden chip....just like yours and thinkerbell's. Its just the cooling that's the issue. My god...that's all I have to say!


Thanks for the input, and yeah on air 3.2 was benchable, but far from orthos close to two hour stable. I will be going to bed within the hour and will post a final screeny if still running before I hit the hay. Im so hoping it runs 8+ hours stable.


----------



## pioneerisloud

How's that Mushkin Redline doing for you in that board? My OCZ doesn't do CRAP past like 225-233 or so. Just wondering if its my RAM that's maybe just not compatible 100%. Even with your RAM on the 100MHz divider, that's still an amazing clock for near 2hrs stable on that chip! Just wow.


----------



## vwgti

Well Im running the 133 divider, and the ram is fully stable at 500 at 3.0, just cant get much past 560 stable with it. I figured though, with increasing the ht, I best drop it from 166-133 for saftey sakes, and shes holding strong. I quite like this ram actually, if this oc is stable, then Ill move onto tinkering with the ram speed and timings, hell I may even reach for the stars and try for 3.3.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vwgti* 
Well Im running the 133 divider, and the ram is fully stable at 500 at 3.0, just cant get much past 560 stable with it. I figured though, with increasing the ht, I best drop it from 166-133 for saftey sakes, and shes holding strong. I quite like this ram actually, if this oc is stable, then Ill move onto tinkering with the ram speed and timings, hell I may even reach for the stars and try for 3.3.

Dude, you've got me SOOOOO jealous right now







. I'm thinking I need to find somebody wanting to trade my OCZ for some Mushkin Redline sticks now. Its GOTTA be an incompatibility with the board. I'm about 99% sure that my board operates fine...its just this stupid OCZ ram.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Freak'in Hell! I'm going Watercooled. vwgti that is seriously impressive man. Gratz on that clock.


----------



## vwgti

Thanks guys was gonna wait another 15-20mins on the update, but heres the screen hope you enjoy.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vwgti* 
Thanks guys was gonna wait another 15-20mins on the update, but heres the screen hope you enjoy.

that's just on watercooling? If so,what products are you using?


----------



## vwgti

I bought the swiftech apex ultra kit, working great so far









Edit: Also go by the hotter core, as the cooler one states it runs 5c below ambient, hahahaha. should of mentioned that is at idle, but the hotter core runs 30c at a 25c ambient.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vwgti* 
I bought the swiftech apex ultra kit, working great so far









Edit: Also go by the hotter core, as the cooler one states it runs 5c below ambient, hahahaha. should of mentioned that is at idle, but the hotter core runs 30c at a 25c ambient.


hmmm..going to have to check that out. I'll defiantly keep an eye for the "hotter" core. I have to run 1.5Volts+ at 3.1Ghz on my Opty165


----------



## vwgti

Alright last update of tonight, heres 3 hours stable, way better than the tuniq which would buck out at 12mins in. Sorry guys Im tired and have to be at work 7 am, will post if, and when it is stable tommow, good night.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vwgti* 
Alright last update of tonight, here 3 hours stable, way better than the tuniq which would buck out at 12mins in. Sorry guys Im tired and have to be at work 7 am, will post if, and when it is stable tomorrow, good night.

when you get a chance,could you tell me where you bought the Kit from?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
when you get a chance,could you tell me where you bought the Kit from?

Xoxide actually sells the kit for $229 plus shipping. Just google it, and xoxide was one of the first links. They're very reputable (in my books).


----------



## txtmstrjoe

*MOST IMPRESSIVE*, veedub! Not just on the OC, but also with the watercooling setup. You clearly have assembled a top-flight LC system. I'm with G.O. and pio the head boob: Makes me want to want to go all-in and see how the water is like!

pio: The Mushkin Redlines are superb! Blitz has this RAM now as well, and he's loving his set. Glad to have you back as well!

On the other hand, I wish I had the chance and the time to go rough it like you and froggy did. Camping might mean no computers, but that can be lots of fun too.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
*MOST IMPRESSIVE*, veedub! Not just on the OC, but also with the watercooling setup. You clearly have assembled a top-flight LC system. I'm with G.O. and pio the head boob: Makes me want to want to go all-in and see how the water is like!

pio: The Mushkin Redlines are superb! Blitz has this RAM now as well, and he's loving his set. Glad to have you back as well!

On the other hand, I wish I had the chance and the time to go rough it like you and froggy did. Camping might mean no computers, but that can be lots of fun too.









Oh it was A LOT of fun every night if you catch my drift







.

Naw, seriously though, it really was a lot of fun. I really enjoyed the campfires, the company, the nice clean air, and the lights out fun (I'm talking about running into trees you pervs).

BTW joe...if you didn't catch my last post directed towards you, froggy's new card is a *320MB* 8800GTS. It should still suffice her pretty well.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
*MOST IMPRESSIVE*, veedub! Not just on the OC, but also with the watercooling setup. You clearly have assembled a top-flight LC system. I'm with G.O. and pio the head boob: Makes me want to want to go all-in and see how the water is like!

pio: The Mushkin Redlines are superb! Blitz has this RAM now as well, and he's loving his set. Glad to have you back as well!

On the other hand, I wish I had the chance and the time to go rough it like you and froggy did. Camping might mean no computers, but that can be lots of fun too.









no puters!?!







...........but but but I need my puter to survive!

Edit: Swiftech H20-220 Apex Ultra+ ZAAAAaaaaang!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Oh it was A LOT of fun every night if you catch my drift







.

Naw, seriously though, it really was a lot of fun. I really enjoyed the campfires, the company, the nice clean air, and the lights out fun (I'm talking about running into trees you pervs).

BTW joe...if you didn't catch my last post directed towards you, froggy's new card is a *320MB* 8800GTS. It should still suffice her pretty well.

Suuuuuuuure you meant running into trees...









LOL I rescind my trade offer. LOL Actually, froggy herself refused the trade, so there.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
no puters!?!







...........but but but I need my puter to survive!

Edit: Swiftech H20-220 Apex Ultra+ ZAAAAaaaaang!

Oooh! A Christmas gift for myself this year..?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Oooh! A Christmas gift for myself this year..?









After you send me my two dollars!.....eeer 8600







"what movie is that from?" Guess right and win everything in my left pocket


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *froggy1986* 
As for the dirt thing, it took me 3 years to get pioneer to go up with me for that same reason, mixed with the idea of bugs and cold.

oh yeah, bugs are bad too









Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Nate, disconnect your slave drive and see if the problems remain. Have you tried a different IDE cable for testing purposes? What kind of drives are these? Please include brand and model number.

Thank you









just got to school, I can tell you later this afternoon though








your welcome









I'll also try without a slave


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vwgti* 
Alright last update of tonight, heres 3 hours stable, way better than the tuniq which would buck out at 12mins in. Sorry guys Im tired and have to be at work 7 am, will post if, and when it is stable tommow, good night.

Vwgti, looking good man









If I had H2O I'd be at 1.5volts too. That OC for a 170 just looks too beautiful. Is the stepping a LCBQE?

Good luck


----------



## vwgti

Think3r the stepping is LCB9E, and well I woke up to a hard locked computer, but I think one more bump on the voltage should do. It went for 8 hours though, no proof sorry but core temp stopped temp logging around 7am, which I assume was the time of hard lock. Well Im gonna bump the voltage one more notch and let it run through the night again.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vwgti* 
Think3r the stepping is LCB9E, and well I woke up to a hard locked computer, but I think one more bump on the voltage should do. It went for 8 hours though, no proof sorry but core temp stopped temp logging around 7am, which I assume was the time of hard lock. Well Im gonna bump the voltage one more notch and let it run through the night again.

Vwgti, wow at 8hrs it locked up. I guess that goes to show you a session of 5-6hrs is not sufficient. Were you running the test at priority 9?

Good luck


----------



## vwgti

Yes test was small ffts at priority 9, and yes this goes to show that 5-6 hours is no guarantee. Id say definitely 12+ hours is required. Thanks for the luck, hopefully a additional bump will solve the problem.


----------



## nategr8ns

7 hours at 3.2ghz is still really good!
what voltage are you going to be bumping it to?

in other news, my dad just picked up two (2) 22" Samsungs at bestbuy, for $300 total!!!!








they're on clearance, but my dad says that they were even on display, there were just a few sitting inside the locked cage thing (know what I mean?). And, like always, the employees didn't know anything about it. It's a good thing BB doesn't tell them though, there wouldn't be any left for the customers


----------



## vwgti

Nice one on the monitors man. I will be trying 1.35 + overvolt = 1.55, hopes it works out. Will keep u all posted


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
in other news, my dad just picked up two (2) 22" Samsungs at bestbuy, for $300 total!!!!








they're on clearance, but my dad says that they were even on display, there were just a few sitting inside the locked cage thing (know what I mean?). And, like always, the employees didn't know anything about it. It's a good thing BB doesn't tell them though, there wouldn't be any left for the customers









Nate, how much is a single 22" Samsung? Are they the 226BW displays?

Good info


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
7 hours at 3.2ghz is still really good!
what voltage are you going to be bumping it to?

in other news, my dad just picked up two (2) 22" Samsungs at bestbuy, for $300 total!!!!








they're on clearance, but my dad says that they were even on display, there were just a few sitting inside the locked cage thing (know what I mean?). And, like always, the employees didn't know anything about it. It's a good thing BB doesn't tell them though, there wouldn't be any left for the customers









nice deal







, got my westinghouse on clearence too there {well here in florida} for $139 + tax , 2 months ago


----------



## boonie2

VWGTI , excellent job with your 170







makes me wonder about my CCBBE 0615 sitting over there on top of my case ... [put me in coach , put me in }







have to wait for my a8n32 to get back from RMA for that tho


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
nice deal







, got my westinghouse on clearence too there {well here in florida} for $139 + tax , 2 months ago

WOW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Nate, how much is a single 22" Samsung? Are they the 226BW displays?

Good info









Its a SM 220WM
$145+tax







great deal IMO


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
Its a SM 220WM
$145+tax







great deal IMO

Nate, wow great deal that is amazing. Thanks for sharing!


----------



## sleeper300

Best it ever got

name= 3200+
code name= Venice
brand id = 4
technology = 90 nm
vcore = 1.530v
vmem = 2.7
vchip = 1.5c
vht = 1.20v
core = 2554Mhz
multiplier = x10
htt = 255Mhz
htm = 3x
Ram = 2.5-3-3-5 at 255.4Mhz
Load Temp = 48C
Idle Temp = 34C
proc score 3dmark05: 5863
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc?id=96509

still running the same system. little dust so its at stock. ill find an air can soon.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Welcome, sleeper300! We're glad to have you join us!

@ veedub: Good luck with the stress test! Hopefully the bump in VCore can get you over.









@ nate: EXCELLENT price for those Samsungs! I have to admit, I've got an infatuation with Samsung LCDs.









@ boonie: Hope the Asus RMA turnaround is quick quick quick!


----------



## vwgti

Well the test has begun, so we will see. Tried a single bump to 1.3123 + overvolt, but cpuz would still report droop below 1.5 occasionally so I gave it a farther bump to 1.325 + overvolt, now it sits steady at 1.52 under load with occasional drop off to 1.504. Idles at 1.53-1.55, my motherboard is now singing away at me, dont know if Im stressing the vr too much or what. Ill keep you all posted.


----------



## nategr8ns

literally singing? Thats not good


----------



## vwgti

Well it sounds like its coming from around the cpu, Im guessing just a noisy cap or vr or something along them lines. Ive heard its quite normal, for all I could be mistaken. Well if the board goes poof, then rma here I come.


----------



## boonie2

grab the fire extinguisher just in case







G/L .......OH ,And welcome SLEEPER ...... Ihope so too Joe , i know i can hit 3.0 stable with that board


----------



## vwgti

HAHAHA, or just cut my watercooling line, lol, close and accessible.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vwgti* 
HAHAHA, or just cut my watercooling line, lol, close and accessible.


----------



## vwgti

Well guys seems 3.2 is out of reach for me, Im not willing to crank voltages any higher. I froze 2.5 hours in so Im now testing 3.15 @ 1.45 (1.42 after droop on load).


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vwgti* 
Well guys seems 3.2 is out of reach for me, Im not willing to crank voltages any higher. I froze 2.5 hours in so Im now testing 3.15 @ 1.45 (1.42 after droop on load).

that sucks. You think it may need a RAM tweak?


----------



## vwgti

Well the ram is running well below 500 at 3.2, it was running at 426 with the 3-3-2-8 timings at 2t which are for the 500 setting. Also running them at 2.85, warrantied to 2.9. But 3.15 is looking promising with a lot less vcore, Im at 1.45 idle, 1.42 load and been running strong.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Too bad 3.2Ghz was unattainable







. You do know 1.60v is safe on H20, right? Anyways, I hope you get your great OC going. That is definitely a lucky chip







. I wish I could crank that kinda speed out of either of our Optys.


----------



## vwgti

Yeah I know 1.6 is attainable, but to run 8 hours then freeze, to bump the voltage and freeze in 2.5, this tells me the architecture is the limitation as heat is out of equation.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vwgti* 
Yeah I know 1.6 is attainable, but to run 8 hours then freeze, to bump the voltage and freeze in 2.5, this tells me the architecture is the limitation as heat is out of equation.

I don't know. It might still just need that extra bump in voltage. Have you upped your motherboard voltage at all? Maybe that's the issue here?


----------



## vwgti

Yeah I had to actually bump northbridge vcore to get it to post at the higher cpu vcore. This made it crash sooner, was also getting wierd buzzing/humming sounds from the cpu. So to my conclusions 3.2 is only benchable, Im in 3 hrs on 3.15 right now.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vwgti*


Yeah I had to actually bump northbridge vcore to get it to post at the higher cpu vcore. This made it crash sooner, was also getting wierd buzzing/humming sounds from the cpu. So to my conclusions 3.2 is only benchable, Im in 3 hrs on 3.15 right now.


Vwgti, not guaranteeing anything but I was able to get 3.10Ghz at 1.45volts around 5hrs stable. The only reason why I didn't keep that OC was because of the temps. I'm hoping your successful at that speed.

Let us know

Good luck


----------



## vwgti

Update for you guys on 3.15, looking good so far, will deff keep you all posted.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vwgti*


Update for you guys on 3.15, looking good so far, will deff keep you all posted.


well man you have me sold on the watercooled. I may even try and find a new Opty. I really would like to stay away from Ebay if possible buying a new one thou. Just don't trust it over there.

I do need some upgrade.

1. PSU, I have been thinking of switching to PC P&C
2. Case, something from CoolerMaster for sure.

Here is something for you guys to ponder. I can home from work the other day to find my PC turned off. I figured my sister was using it and turned it off when she was finished. I asked and she said she had not touched it. Sooooo... I hit power button to find that I get no response other than a few lights turn on then off again just as quick.

I start removing one component at a time starting with the Vid card. Then the RAM, CD/DVD Drives and HDD. I hit the powwer button and the system boots up as much as it can without the HDD. Ok so I add the HDD back and RAM. It's boots and stays on. I then the rest of the components back and the PC stay running. I shut down and reboot a number of times with no issues.

I guessing something may have been grounded some how. I check all the wires and such and find nothing that looks grounded. Now I have no idea what would cause it to shutdown and not boot OR even spin the fans. Any idea's?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Here is something for you guys to ponder. I can home from work the other day to find my PC turned off. I figured my sister was using it and turned it off when she was finished. I asked and she said she had not touched it. Sooooo... I hit power button to find that I get no response other than a few lights turn on then off again just as quick.

I start removing one component at a time starting with the Vid card. Then the RAM, CD/DVD Drives and HDD. I hit the powwer button and the system boots up as much as it can without the HDD. Ok so I add the HDD back and RAM. It's boots and stays on. I then the rest of the components back and the PC stay running. I shut down and reboot a number of times with no issues.

I guessing something may have been grounded some how. I check all the wires and such and find nothing that looks grounded. Now I have no idea what would cause it to shutdown and not boot OR even spin the fans. Any idea's?


GuardianOdin, is the machine directly plugged into the wall? Are you on a surge protector/ups? Also put your nose up to the PSU(exhaust or intake) and make sure the evil smell of burnt electronics is not lingering. Check each cap on the board and make sure they are not bulging/leaking. Was the machine idling when you left work in the morning?

Good luck


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


GuardianOdin, is the machine directly plugged into the wall? Are you on a surge protector/ups? Also put your nose up to the PSU(exhaust or intake) and make sure the evil smell of burnt electronics is not lingering. Check each cap on the board and make sure they are not bulging/leaking. Was the machine idling when you left work in the morning?

Good luck










I checked for the magical white smoke smell that makes all electronic run







Didn't seem to notice it. The Mobo looks to be ok. I'll take another look at it in the morning.

When I left for work the other day it was Folding. I may have mistakenly had a high OC at the time too......









I have run some bench marks and even upped it to 3.1Ghz again and it seems solid. So yeah no clue what happened.

EDIT: I have it plugged into a small surge protector. One of those Walgreen specials everyone has.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


well man you have me sold on the watercooled. I may even try and find a new Opty. I really would like to stay away from Ebay if possible buying a new one thou. Just don't trust it over there.

I do need some upgrade.

1. PSU, I have been thinking of switching to PC P&C
2. Case, something from CoolerMaster for sure.

Here is something for you guys to ponder. I can home from work the other day to find my PC turned off. I figured my sister was using it and turned it off when she was finished. I asked and she said she had not touched it. Sooooo... I hit power button to find that I get no response other than a few lights turn on then off again just as quick.

I start removing one component at a time starting with the Vid card. Then the RAM, CD/DVD Drives and HDD. I hit the powwer button and the system boots up as much as it can without the HDD. Ok so I add the HDD back and RAM. It's boots and stays on. I then the rest of the components back and the PC stay running. I shut down and reboot a number of times with no issues.

I guessing something may have been grounded some how. I check all the wires and such and find nothing that looks grounded. Now I have no idea what would cause it to shutdown and not boot OR even spin the fans. Any idea's?



PC Power & Cooling 750w Silencer







Cooler Master CM 690







= Win hehe


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


PC Power & Cooling 750w Silencer







Cooler Master CM 690







= Win hehe


That would be nice. Oh and BTW your brackets are on the way


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


When I left for work the other day it was Folding. I may have mistakenly had a high OC at the time too......










Guardian, ahh perhaps that is the problem









Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


EDIT: I have it plugged into a small surge protector. One of those Walgreen specials everyone has.


If your budget permits I'd recommend picking up a nice APC unit. I can almost guarantee those will hold up during a surge. Not only are they good for battery backup but they also filter electrical noise which can sometimes wreak havoc on a machine.

Good luck buddy


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


PC Power & Cooling 750w Silencere


Iandroo, that is way overkill for his rig


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Guardian, ahh perhaps that is the problem









If your budget permits I'd recommend picking up a nice APC unit. I can almost guarantee those will hold up during a surge. Not only are they good for battery backup but they also filter electrical noise which can sometimes wreak havoc on a machine.

Good luck buddy










I'm going to see if my Boss has an extra surge protector one from the business. The few we have in the office are heavy as hell,but they work!

I believe I running the High HT at the time. 377-379 somewhere around that. Bah! should have paid attention.


----------



## iandroo888

since when was "overkill" in the overclocking dictionary?

and sweet! cant wait for the brackets to come!

*edit*

MAN! its so hard getting the sides straight and sanded nicely without ruining the brushed aluminum T_T


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


since when was "overkill" in the overclocking dictionary?

and sweet! cant wait for the brackets to come!

*edit*

MAN! its so hard getting the sides straight and sanded nicely without ruining the brushed aluminum T_T



Sorry about the delay. It's seriously a sad day when I have to wait to get paid to mail off a $4 package......just plain sad.

hehehe... hope the box is big enough


----------



## iandroo888

lol.. its jsut a bracket right? thought u said u were jsut sending it in like an envelope or something


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


lol.. its just a bracket right? thought u said u were just sending it in like an envelope or something


Naw, don't trust the postal service enough to send it in an envelope and I thought it was funny.


----------



## iandroo888

haha.. true true.. thats why when i buy things, ppl say USPS.. im like.. please send by fedex/ups/dhl T_T its approx same price if not cheaper than USPS and better


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
haha.. true true.. thats why when i buy things, ppl say USPS.. im like.. please send by fedex/ups/dhl T_T its approx same price if not cheaper than USPS and better

I'd use FedEx or UPS if I didn't have to drive 15 miles to do it.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
well man you have me sold on the watercooled. I may even try and find a new Opty. I really would like to stay away from Ebay if possible buying a new one thou. Just don't trust it over there.

I do need some upgrade.

1. PSU, I have been thinking of switching to PC P&C
2. Case, something from CoolerMaster for sure.

Here is something for you guys to ponder. I can home from work the other day to find my PC turned off. I figured my sister was using it and turned it off when she was finished. I asked and she said she had not touched it. Sooooo... I hit power button to find that I get no response other than a few lights turn on then off again just as quick.

I start removing one component at a time starting with the Vid card. Then the RAM, CD/DVD Drives and HDD. I hit the powwer button and the system boots up as much as it can without the HDD. Ok so I add the HDD back and RAM. It's boots and stays on. I then the rest of the components back and the PC stay running. I shut down and reboot a number of times with no issues.

I guessing something may have been grounded some how. I check all the wires and such and find nothing that looks grounded. Now I have no idea what would cause it to shutdown and not boot OR even spin the fans. Any idea's?

sounds to me like PSU. When you hit the button, everything turns on using whatever power is left in the caps before running out of juice and shutting down. Not sure why it was just temporary though







. Maybe the switch on your power supply had hit something and turned off? Then turned back on by itself







.
who knows...


----------



## vwgti

Well heres me twelve hour orthos priority 9 stable, but shortly after stopping orthos my comp locked up. I restarted it and it locked up again, this makes no sense at all to me. Suggestions?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

G.O., regarding your rig's problem: A possibility is a bad sector on your HDD. My sig rig used to have problems like that. It would test out to be stable (S&M stable, no less), but occasionally it would just shutdown for no obvious reason. Ran all the diagnostics I could with the RAM, temps weren't a problem; changed PSUs TWICE (I switched between rigs). Same unpredictable symptoms. Looked in the BIOS, nothing was obviously amiss. C'nQ was turned off (have never run with this on).

I finally thought about my HDDs. I researched the problem, and some sources suggested that it could be a bad disk sector. I now run Diskeeper, and voila! No more unpredictable shutdowns.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


since when was "overkill" in the overclocking dictionary?


Iandroo, 750watts is just a tad bit overkill for a single video card.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vwgti*


Well heres me twelve hour orthos priority 9 stable, but shortly after stopping orthos my comp locked up. I restarted it and it locked up again, this makes no sense at all to me. Suggestions?


Vwgti, I tried 3.15Ghz as well a few months ago and that OC was extremely flaky. I just didn't trust it. I was also getting random lockups after Orthos testing no matter how much voltage I was putting into it. Give 3.1Ghz a shot and see how that goes.

Good luck


----------



## nategr8ns

hmmmm diskeeper, could running that possibly fix my hiccups? That is if it actually is a hard drive issue...
I'll check it out when I get home!

BTW, I will be getting 2x1gb of G.Skill PC4000 HZs soon and they will be shipped tomorrow. I wonder when they will arrive...


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


sounds to me like PSU. When you hit the button, everything turns on using whatever power is left in the caps before running out of juice and shutting down. Not sure why it was just temporary though







. Maybe the switch on your power supply had hit something and turned off? Then turned back on by itself







.
who knows...


The PSU seems very solid right now. I checked for any possible grounded area's or wires and found nothing.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


G.O., regarding your rig's problem: A possibility is a bad sector on your HDD. My sig rig used to have problems like that.  It would test out to be stable (S&M stable, no less), but occasionally it would just shutdown for no obvious reason. Ran all the diagnostics I could with the RAM, temps weren't a problem; changed PSUs TWICE (I switched between rigs). Same unpredictable symptoms. Looked in the BIOS, nothing was obviously amiss. C'nQ was turned off (have never run with this on).

I finally thought about my HDDs. I researched the problem, and some sources suggested that it could be a bad disk sector. I now run Diskeeper, and voila! No more unpredictable shutdowns.


Actually every now and again I notice odd "stuff" with this Seagate HDD. I'm not very impressed with this 250G HDD to be honest. I get freezes and such for no reason and incredibly slow response time every now and again. Thankfully if the HDD is the issue, then it won't be a huge cost to replace. I also run Diskeeper on a regular basis which seems to help. If there is something physically wrong with it, then Diskeeper won't do anything for me...pooo


----------



## prosser13

Seagate have (or at least had) an online test - run it, it'll tell you if your hard drive is OK


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
hmmmm diskeeper, could running that possibly fix my hiccups? That is if it actually is a hard drive issue...
I'll check it out when I get home!

BTW, I will be getting 2x1gb of G.Skill PC4000 HZs soon and they will be shipped tomorrow. I wonder when they will arrive...









HEY>>>>>>>>>>> did you happen to get those from ebay ?







are you the one







hahaha , was bidding on the same ram and got sniped when i went to get some coffee right at the end


----------



## boonie2

OK , update guyz and ladies ..... just installed my new DFI board and CCBBE opty , man this boards got alot of options , THIS IS GONNA BE FFFFFFFUUUUUUUUNNNNNNNNNN














gonna go slow for now but 3.1 here i come ......







... thought i might have to do a reinstall of my OS , but got lucky and everything booted right up....Wish me luck.... updates to follow


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
HEY>>>>>>>>>>> did you happen to get those from ebay ?







are you the one







hahaha , was bidding on the same ram and got sniped when i went to get some coffee right at the end









nope not ebay, for sale section







. They're too expensive on eBay.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
OK , update guyz and ladies ..... just installed my new DFI board and CCBBE opty , man this boards got alot of options , THIS IS GONNA BE FFFFFFFUUUUUUUUNNNNNNNNNN














gonna go slow for now but 3.1 here i come ......







... thought i might have to do a reinstall of my OS , but got lucky and everything booted right up....Wish me luck.... updates to follow









It still might give you troubles down the road. I would reinstall anyway to be safe








so whats your opty at right now?


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
nope not ebay, for sale section







. They're too expensive on eBay.

It still might give you troubles down the road. I would reinstall anyway to be safe








so whats your opty at right now?

Right now its running at 2.6 - 1.35v for awhile till it gets set in , yeah i was thinking that too about reinstalling , i was running XP PRO and bought the Vista Business upgrade can i reinstall with the upgrade disk do you think? going to wait for that till my 500gb hdd gets in tho..


----------



## nategr8ns

you can reinstall with the update disk, but it will prompt you to insert an older version of windows (I use my '98 upgrade disk with my XP Home upgrade disk, it works







. Not sure if vista will let you use another upgrade disk though)


----------



## iandroo888

oh man... 4.5" hole saw found its way and crawled across the left side of my left hand..

OUCH! @[email protected] occupational hazard....... of modding... >_>


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Major OWWWIE, ian!









Gotta take care of yourself, man! I know you're the Thunder God and all, but I don't think even he has the ability to regenerate damaged body parts.


----------



## iandroo888

nope.. wish i had wolverine's regen ability... hehehe


----------



## boonie2

Yeah nate , I think ill just do a clean install with my XP PRO then run the Vista upgrade again .. Hate to do all this work and crash out my hdd


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
nope not ebay, for sale section







. They're too expensive on eBay.

It still might give you troubles down the road. I would reinstall anyway to be safe








so whats your opty at right now?

Oh man, you bought those? Dangit. I was hoping to get my hands on them to replace these flaky, crappy OCZ sticks. Oh well....congratulations on your purchase







. You got to em first, you deserve em







. I hope they treat you well (better than my sticks treat me).


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Haha

pioneer's RAM hates him.










Just kidding, man. I just miss ribbing you.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Haha

pioneer's RAM hates him.










Just kidding, man. I just miss ribbing you.









Well it DOES HATE ME!!! Seriously. It works JUST FINE in Froggy's board. Booted to windows all the way up to 275MHz with absolutely NO tweaking of ANYTHING. I just forced the stock timings and away they went. So I'm about 99% sure they'd be stable at stock 250MHz on her board.

Its just that my board hates them! I'm thinking of RMA....but there's nothing actually WRONG with the sticks. They just don't work in my board, like the OCZ guy said they would.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I bet you that if you took your time testing all the little itty-bitty settings, you can get those sticks to fly.









That reminds me: Maybe it's time for another contest.







Highest RAM OC Frequency.

What do you think, kids?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I bet you that if you took your time testing all the little itty-bitty settings, you can get those sticks to fly.









That reminds me: Maybe it's time for another contest.







Highest RAM OC Frequency.

What do you think, kids?

I think I'll fail MISERABLY using my board. That's what I think


----------



## boonie2

Not yet , till i figure out ALLLLLLLLLLLLLL these settings on this board hahaha


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Awwww

I think it's a brilliant contest idea.







No need for exotic cooling solutions, it's just run what ya got.

Maybe not for now, but maybe for later..?


----------



## iandroo888

pioneer - why dont u send those OCZ's to me. if it doesnt work with our A8N32-SLi, ill try on the A8R32-MVP or the DFI LanPartyUT Ultra-D =P my a8r32-mvp could use a boost. its my server but little bit laggy with the low amt of ram i have in it. just enough for it to run.. lol..


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


Yeah nate , I think ill just do a clean install with my XP PRO then run the Vista upgrade again .. Hate to do all this work and crash out my hdd










thats not what I meant








If you try to do a fresh install with the upgrade disk, it will just prompt you (before windows setup or whatever its called) for an earlier version of windows (anything from NT 3.51 and up I believe). Then you reinsert the vista CD and away you go!


----------



## Blitz6804

Okay, I have been out of the loop for over a week. That said, be prepared for a cascading iandroo888esque post.

That said:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Sucker









Blitz, when do you get back?

Now?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexgheseger* 
Sounds like you may have been. No post after CMOS reset AND no beeps probably means the bios is toast.

Not necessarily. When my BIOS was toast, I got a beep, and then a sustained buzz. I would go with the 'motherboard-being-shorted-out-on-a-standoff theory.'

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
whats the warranty like?
I wonder what ASUS' customer service is like...

Not bad at all. I have a motherboard that was RMAed six times...

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
still waiting for gaurdianodin to send me that mounting bracket so i can make my OC attempt on that rig. o well. temps dropped quite a bit in vegas. 57C and light rain. good OC'in weather haha.

I hope you meant 57Âº F and not 57Âº C. If the latter, that means you are 135Âº F...

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Low ambients FTW: It's a nippy 17.7 degrees C in my bedroom right now. OCCT-generated load temps are a steady 36 degrees for both cores.









What the...? Joe's room cooler than mine? The Eagles are right, it froze over! My room is presently 18Âº C, outside is 8Âº C.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
iandroo is a nut case

How wood... </JAR_JAR>

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
yah firefox takes up a lot of ram... esp if its been open for a while and uve done a lot on it.

That can be fixed. There is a thing you can modify to make Firefox reduce RAM usage when it minimizes like all other Windows programs. If I can find the link, I will post it, because I cannot remember what options I changed in mine.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
I can check my basement though, was 939 around during the SDRAM era? The only boards I have lying in my basement are SDRAM boards









Nope. Socket A was the first AMD desktop DDR board.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
pio: The Mushkin Redlines are superb! Blitz has this RAM now as well, and he's loving his set. Glad to have you back as well!

I never actually said I love my set. I have yet to tinker with them, they are running at "stock" 3-3-2-8-2t at DDR393. I am not going to fiddle with them until I get the other 2 GB installed. I will say that they can run DDR500 at 1:1 on 2.67 V under "auto" settings. Got around 7950 MBps bandwidth according to Everest.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
nice deal







, got my westinghouse on clearence too there {well here in florida} for $139 + tax , 2 months ago

My monitor (Dell Ultrasharp 2707WFP) cost me $1500. If only I had thought to look into a 1080p TV instead... (-_-)

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vwgti* 
Well guys seems 3.2 is out of reach for me, Im not willing to crank voltages any higher. I froze 2.5 hours in so Im now testing 3.15 @ 1.45 (1.42 after droop on load).

I cannot say I blame you. I will not use any 24/7 setting that is not, uhm, 24/7 stable under stock VCore.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Too bad 3.2Ghz was unattainable







. You do know 1.60v is safe on H20, right? Anyways, I hope you get your great OC going. That is definitely a lucky chip







. I wish I could crank that kinda speed out of either of our Optys.

Sure, the chip will not explode, but you are still shortening its lifespan. Granted, a year off a ten-year life is nearly insignificant, but still.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
EDIT: I have it plugged into a small surge protector. One of those Walgreen specials everyone has.

You may wish to look into an uninterruptable power supply ["UPS"]. I am partial to American Power Conversion ["APC"] because I have had them so long, but any brand is fine. The problem with the "Walgreen Specials" is that they may not have enough joule protection to suit most high-end users' needs.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
If your budget permits I'd recommend picking up a nice APC unit. I can almost guarantee those will hold up during a surge. Not only are they good for battery backup but they also filter electrical noise which can sometimes wreak havoc on a machine.

See previous...

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
C'nQ was turned off (have never run with this on).

You, of all people, given your (typical) ambients should consider it. I presume you are not gaming constantly, and as such, might be a good idea. Imagine your room being a whole 1Âº C cooler...

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
Right now its running at 2.6 - 1.35v for awhile till it gets set in , yeah i was thinking that too about reinstalling , i was running XP PRO and bought the Vista Business upgrade can i reinstall with the upgrade disk do you think? going to wait for that till my 500gb hdd gets in tho..

I think I have mentioned it before. If your XP Pro and Vista Business are both Retail, Boxed versions, you can install them on as many motherboards as you want provided that they are only installed on one PC at a time. If you have the OEM versions, they may only be installed on one Motherboard. If you installed the XP Pro on a GA-K8NSC-939 for example, the only motherboard it can ever be installed on is that GA-K8NSC-939 or a replacement of the same model provided by Gigabyte.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
Yeah nate , I think ill just do a clean install with my XP PRO then run the Vista upgrade again .. Hate to do all this work and crash out my hdd









I would run a clean install of Vista and just place the XP disk in when prompted. A clean install will have less quirks than an upgrade install.

Whoo! I am up to date!

That said,

Joe: Sleeper300's PC is running at 2554 MHz, not 2553 MHz.
Further, nickbunyun's PC is running at 2413 MHz, not 2412 MHz.
Five or greater gets rounded up.
Also note, that Daemonix now has an official join date: 04/07/2008.

Cheers! *Drains fourth drink in under an hour.*


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
pioneer - why dont u send those OCZ's to me. if it doesnt work with our A8N32-SLi, ill try on the A8R32-MVP or the DFI LanPartyUT Ultra-D =P my a8r32-mvp could use a boost. its my server but little bit laggy with the low amt of ram i have in it. just enough for it to run.. lol..

I guarantee the lanparty board will whip those OCZ sticks into submission.







Well it did for my OCZ's anyway.


----------



## boonie2

Just finished the fresh install , went great until it came to the activation part , spent an hour on the phone with microsoft activation , good god what a pain . didnt matter how many times I explained to them that i replaced the motherboard in my system and thats why my product key {retail vista upgrade} wouldnt work , they still didnt get it , shuffled around to 6 different people till finally someone with a 1/2 decent english accent straightened out the activation in 2 minutes


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Iceman0803* 
I guarantee the lanparty board will whip those OCZ sticks into submission.







Well it did for my OCZ's anyway.









too bad i dont think pioneer would agree to sending me that ram lol.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
too bad i dont think pioneer would agree to sending me that ram lol.

Yeah probably not, since then my machine wouldn't work.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Actually every now and again I notice odd "stuff" with this Seagate HDD. I'm not very impressed with this 250G HDD to be honest. I get freezes and such for no reason and incredibly slow response time every now and again. Thankfully if the HDD is the issue, then it won't be a huge cost to replace. I also run Diskeeper on a regular basis which seems to help. If there is something physically wrong with it, then Diskeeper won't do anything for me...pooo









Guardian, download Seagate's Seatools and burn the utility to a CD. I believe it's a bootable .iso.
When you get into the CD run the surface scan. This should go through each sector of the drive. If the drive is failing it will tell you there(hopefully).

Iandroo, my whole "nut case" comment was a joke...come on we're all jokers here









Blitz, good to see you back. Check your PM's.

Joe, let's start a new contest soon. Highest S939 OC(processor) and memory OC!









I vote for cpu-z validations only heheh


----------



## pioneerisloud

I don't think I'd be in for that race guys. Last time I tried that, I ended up permafrying my OS....not gonna do that again







.

Anybody know of a good Ghosting software....preferrably free? One that will do the OS, all updates, and programs I have installed? And be able to burn said image to DVD's?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I don't think I'd be in for that race guys. Last time I tried that, I ended up permafrying my OS....not gonna do that again







.

Anybody know of a good Ghosting software....preferrably free? One that will do the OS, all updates, and programs I have installed? And be able to burn said image to DVD's?

Pioneer, do you have any spare hard drives around? You could always just install XP on one of the drives for testing. I always just make images of my drives so I have backups just in case something critical happens like a corrupt OS(OC'ing memory to much hehe).

I use Ghost, Acronis and UIU for imaging. All three applications are not free though.

Good luck bud!


----------



## pioneerisloud

thlnk3r, do you use Acronis True Image? That's the one that's popping up the most via google. I may buy it if its worth it. I WILL NOT use Ghost again though.

EDIT:
And will Acronis do the job that I'm wanting? Backup EVERYTHING, so I just pop my recovery discs in, and away I go?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
thlnk3r, do you use Acronis True Image? That's the one that's popping up the most via google. I may buy it if its worth it. I WILL NOT use Ghost again though.

EDIT:
And will Acronis do the job that I'm wanting? Backup EVERYTHING, so I just pop my recovery discs in, and away I go?

Pioneer, yes Acronis True Image is what I am talking about. It can make an image of your drive and also restore to an image (has to be the acronis format of course). I believe the format is .tib .

Very simple application to use.

Good luck


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Pioneer, yes Acronis True Image is what I am talking about. It can make an image of your drive and also restore to an image (has to be the acronis format of course). I believe the format is .tib .

Very simple application to use.

Good luck









Sweet, downloading the trial now!

Will I be able to make an image of my drive, and burn it to restore discs?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I use Acronis True Image!

No pioneer-esque Kentucky Fried OSes for me (knocks furiously on wood).


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Sweet, downloading the trial now!

Will I be able to make an image of my drive, and burn it to restore discs?

Pioneer, well how it works is you use Acronis to make an image of your drive. Then when you need to restore that image you boot to the Acronis utility (CD) and go to the "Restore from Image" option. That will automatically load the image you have saved on your external drive or a network device. You can have as many images as you want.

Good luck


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Pioneer, well how it works is you use Acronis to make an image of your drive. Then when you need to restore that image you boot to the Acronis utility (CD) and go to the "Restore from Image" option. That will automatically load the image you have saved on your external drive or a network device. You can have as many images as you want.

Good luck









Crap! Seems I may have chosen the wrong software then







. I don't have hard drive space to spare for images. All I got is blank DVD's







.

Other ideas then?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Don't you have any spare HDDs, pio?

I could recommend another (free) imaging util (DriveImage XML), but it too will require HDD space; I don't think the images can fit on a blank DVD.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Negative. Absolutely NO spare HDD's laying around this house, cept maybe a 20GB Quantum Fireball or something similar. Sigh. Seems like my plans may be fundled again! I wish I could afford the 8 new server drives I've been eying for 2 years now, lol. Then I could just do a network backup!

But yeah, I'm absolutely STUCK having to make my backup onto DVD's. Ghost USED to be good about that. But it wouldn't work for me no more, so I gave up on it years ago.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

pio, PM thlnk3r regarding spare HDDs. He said he might be able to help you out.


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


too bad i dont think pioneer would agree to sending me that ram lol.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Yeah probably not, since then my machine wouldn't work.


Ya I know I was just going along with ian.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Guardian, download Seagate's Seatools and burn the utility to a CD. I believe it's a bootable .iso. 
When you get into the CD run the surface scan. This should go through each sector of the drive. If the drive is failing it will tell you there(hopefully)


Will do, and thanks! It seems stable now. Not glitchy at all. I am currently running [email protected] and I'm 3 units in without any fail.

Ok guys and Gal. I was contacted by someone with some good Editor connections in the Comicbook biz. If I don't reply or post for a while, it's becuase I'm getting those sample pages ready I spoke about a while back. This seems like the real deal, but like always. I won't get my hopes up to soon. If it turns out to be good, I'll be able to build a completely new rig ....and pay those pesky bills







But it will be a few months down the road before I'll know anything for sure good or bad.


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Will do, and thanks! It seems stable now. Not glitchy at all. I am currently running [email protected] and I'm 3 units in without any fail.

Ok guys and Gal. I was contacted by someone with some good Editor connections in the Comicbook biz. If I don't reply or post for a while, it's becuase I'm getting those sample pages ready I spoke about a while back. This seems like the real deal, but like always. I won't get my hopes up to soon. If it turns out to be good, I'll be able to build a completely new rig ....and pay those pesky bills







But it will be a few months down the road before I'll know anything for sure good or bad.


Good luck man!


----------



## iandroo888

wahhh stop calling me ian T_T


----------



## nategr8ns

I'm a stranger to backing up








I just copy all of my files to my slave drive if I need them...
sorry I'm not any help


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I use Acronis True Image!

No pioneer-esque Kentucky Fried OSes for me (knocks furiously on wood).

I personally have never taken an image of my HDD. If it goes balls-up, I will have to reinstall all programs. Again.

On the other hand, I do have most of my files backed up. The laptop has a near-perfect replication of everything on the desktop. Further, I have my entire "My Documents" folder in a high-compression RAR stored on my Q-drive (80 GB SATA in the tower) and my M-Drive (80 GB USB stored in my fire-proof safe) in case something really bad happens.

And as to fitting a huge file onto DVDs, I have used Winsplit for years. It runs natively in Windows XP, and I have yet to try it on Vista. In theory, you can break the TIB into several pieces each being less than 4.7 GB (5,046,586,572 bytes) although I would suggest making each piece 4.0 GB (4,294,967,296 bytes) just to be sure. Pick the option to create a Batch file. Then burn the pieces to DVDs. If you toast the OS, recompile the pieces onto a network drive (read: Froggy's PC), restore, and then remove the file from her PC and defrag the drive.

Best of luck!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Seems Acronis True Image may just backup to DVD's or CD's. It'll take 15 DVD's or 87 CD's to backup my rig, lol.


----------



## nickbunyun

Ive looked thru the pages... and why is it that most of the ppl oc'ed over 3ghz they dont have a "core voltage" showing up ?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nickbunyun* 
Ive looked thru the pages... and why is it that most of the ppl oc'ed over 3ghz they dont have a "core voltage" showing up ?

If you are referring to the CPUz validation links, the voltage doesn't show up on any of them







. However 99% of us here are more than happy to share the voltage we require to hit certain speeds







.


----------



## nickbunyun

i have the same cpu and mobo
what voltage do u think hes at?

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=348739


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nickbunyun*


i have the same cpu and mobo
what voltage do u think hes at?

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=348739


Well honestly, I'd say at least 1.45v with the Opty 180. And according to your sig rig, its not the same board. You're on the A8N SLI, he's on the A8N*32* SLI. You're also running either 2x1GB and 2x512MB sticks, or 3x1GB sticks.....either way its a bad combination for your memory. I can keep listing, lol. All in all, I'd go down to 2GB of RAM (2x1GB MATCHING sticks), and go from there. If you're having overclock troubles, that'd be where I'd start first....mixed RAM is NEVER a good thing, especially with 939 boards. I tried to do 2x1GB and 2x512MB on mine....and it resulted in a permafried OS with my overclock.

BTW...I'm too lazy to see if you're a member yet, but if you're not, all we need is a CPUz validation link to add you to the roster







. It can be PM'd to myself, thlnk3r, txtmstrjoe, or any of the other honorary founders on the list.

I hope this helps you out some. I'm quite tired ATM...will have to double check my info after sleep time.

*EDIT:
Nevermind, you're on the list







. Had to double check...ignore that part.*


----------



## nickbunyun

good points..
well i have.. these

Kingston ValueRAM 1GB 184-Pin DDR SDRAM DDR 400 (PC 3200) Desktop Memory - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820134008

Kingston ValueRAM 1GB (2 x 512MB) 184-Pin DDR SDRAM DDR 400 (PC 3200) Dual Channel Kit System Memory - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820141423

and i have another one my friend gave me.. i think its a pc2800..


----------



## Blitz6804

I concur with Pioneer. The mis-matched densities might give you problems. ValueRAM in many cases can perform well, but may need more volts to do it, and without adequate cooling, you might have a melt down. I would look into some higher-test stuff, but that is just me.


----------



## nickbunyun

what if i take the unmatching one and leave the 3 (2x512 1x1gb)... in.. those match they're ddr400, pc3200..


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nickbunyun*


what if i take the unmatching one and leave the 3 (2x512 1x1gb)... in.. those match they're ddr400, pc3200..


Nope, no go. That'd force you into single channel which is even worse.

You need TWO matching sticks. Matching meaning same size, same speed, same timings (at the very least)....and preferrably even exact same models (example: Both Kingston Value RAM DDR400 3-3-3-8-2T 1GB sticks). That's the best combination of RAM







.

With 4 sticks installed you're forcing DDR333 and 2T command rate.

With 3 sticks installed you're forcing single channel mode (BAD for RAM speed).

With 2 MATCHING sticks installed, your forcing DUAL channel (good), DDR400 (assuming you're using DDR400), and proper timings with a 2T command rate, but can PROBABLY use a 1T command rate.

That's what you'd want to shoot for. And bad RAM combinations will also limit your overclock quite badly as well sometimes. Like I said, when I tried to install a 2x512 kit to my current sig rig, I was VERY unstable. Couldn't even boot to Windows...and it corrupted my install.


----------



## Blitz6804

Given your four DIMMs, the best bet would be to use the 2x1024 configuration. Make sure they are in the correct slots, which blue if I remember right with your motherboard; 'Droo, back me up.


----------



## nickbunyun

so instead of all this overclocking my CPU to better results..
should i just get a BFG 8800GT (150 after MIR). and leave everything stock?

would it take everything i throw at it ?
my psu isnt the best.. but i ordered this one yesterday.. 
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817341010 (yay step 5!! its comin..)

Would I be able to play Far Cry and Crysis with stock settings with a BFG 8800GT ?


----------



## Blitz6804

Oh darn it... I reread my cascade this morning and realized I missed one.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vwgti*


Wow thanks a heap joe, I will dibble dabble in that area later. Well I just passed a 30min occt test on cpu/ram, looking good. Now Ive always used orthos for final stability testing, what would you suggest? OCCT or Orthos? also what test and what priority?


S&M without a doubt. The link is on the roster.

nickbunyun: I could not tell you. Your mileage may vary; I know someone who has 2x1024+2x512 and they do fine. Just because someone's VPU can handle something does not mean someone else's cannot.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nickbunyun*


i have the same cpu and mobo
what voltage do u think hes at?

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=348739


Impossible to say. To some extent, expected possible overclocks are partly predictable by the chip's stepping batch code, which indicate which version of the IMC (Integrated Memory Controller -- perhaps the most important part of the K8 microarchitecture when it comes to overclocking these things) is on the chip and the approximate date of manufacture. Note I said "possible" overclocks; nothing is hard and fast in the shadowy world of overclocking, and there are absolutely no guarantees.

A general rule that seems to be absolute: The higher your target CPU speed is, the higher your VCore must be. A few chips can sustain really high speeds even with stock VCore levels (for K8 dual-cores, 2.8GHz+ or so at 1.35V or less); thlnk3r and pioneerisloud are lucky to have these so-called "golden chips." These are the exceptions, however; it seems that every stepping batch yields a few of these treasures from time to time as well.

Another rule for K8s: The less you stress the IMC, the easier your CPU will be to OC.

Hope this helps!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nickbunyun*


would it take everything i throw at it ?
my psu isnt the best.. but i ordered this one yesterday.. 
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817341010


Nick, that PSU is fine. Your looking at 35.41amps on the 12volt rail. Wattage wise it's plenty.

Good luck









Guardian, good luck to you also with your comic book stuff


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Grrrr

I wish I was at home right now, instead of at work. I've got me a ghetto mod I want to test.









I propose a new Club contest: Highest S&M stable OC!

Any takers?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Grrrr

I wish I was at home right now, instead of at work. I've got me a ghetto mod I want to test.









I propose a new Club contest: Highest S&M stable OC!

Any takers?



















Joe, I'm game!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Joe, I'm game!












That's one.

Anyone else?


----------



## Blitz6804

I cannot be game until I get some new fans and my offset screwdriver. Joe: YGEM.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I cannot be game until I get some new fans and my offset screwdriver. Joe: YGEM.


You're not getting new fans.

You're getting fans that are new to you.

Just to be correct and precise, of course.









Speaking of which, those very same fans are the next on my list of reviews. Do you want the verdicts before or after you get said fans?

(And as of yet, I don't HEM.)


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, you should now. I typed it after posting here.

And I did not necessarily mean those specific fans, just need something better than I have. I was coveting that 130mm Thermaltake, aside of that black/orange color scheme. Perhaps you can review one of those? *Chuckles*

(I of course speak of the Thermaltake A2330. 54.4 CFM at 16 dBA? I would not need fan controllers! They are more CFMs but quieter than either the FM122-B on low or the Scythe Kama Bay!)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I'd review that fan, except that I've never seen one, much less used one.

And I've told you before: Don't believe the stats all the time!







Most fan manufacturers are infamous for fibbing when it comes to performance specs.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


And I've told you before: Don't believe the stats all the time!







Most fan manufacturers are infamous for fibbing when it comes to performance specs.


Joe, yep marketing gimmicks ftw!


----------



## Blitz6804

The other shortfall: it is 3-pin, not 4.


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
wahhh stop calling me ian T_T

Sorry I was just being lazy....


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


The other shortfall: it is 3-pin, not 4.


I prefer 3 pin, because I can't hook up my 4-pin fans to my fan controller









and whats the point of that "silent-wheel" fan? It's 130mm, what gives!

oh yeah, does anybody here know anything about the 939 CFX3200 boards? The DFI one in particular.
http://www.newegg.com/product/produc...82E16813136009


----------



## boonie2

anybody know DFIs latest bios for the ultra D off hand ?


----------



## nategr8ns

DFI's site: 2006/04/06
Seems kind of old, but then again 939 is sort of last-gen...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Oh wow! boonie's about to go cuckoo bananas with his first ride on the DFI train!









Enjoy!


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Oh wow! boonie's about to go cuckoo bananas with his first ride on the DFI train!









Enjoy!









CHOOOOOOOOOO CHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO


----------



## nategr8ns

CHUGga chugga chugga chugga CHUGga chugga chugga chugga
DFIOOOOOOOOOOOOODFIOOOOOOOOOOOO DFIOOOOOOOOOOOO DFIOOOOOOOOOOOO


----------



## iandroo888

GuardianOdin - Got the brackets. Thanks bro! tho u forgot the screws. hehe =P

OoOo boonie has an ultra-d! Letz go on a DFI Ultra-D OC'ing Extravaganza!


----------



## vwgti

Well guys, I just tested 3.1 at the same voltage that was supposable stable for 3.15, see my previous post about it freezing after stopping orthos after running 12hrs orthos priority 9. I just ran a s&m test at 3.1, passed with flying colors and has been running without a freeze for over a day noe. Im going to classify stable being as 3.15 passed orthos at the same voltage.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vwgti* 
Well guys, I just tested 3.1 at the same voltage that was supposable stable for 3.15, see my previous post about it freezing after stopping orthos after running 12hrs orthos priority 9. I just ran a s&m test at 3.1, passed with flying colors and has been running without a freeze for over a day noe. Im going to classify stable being as 3.15 passed orthos at the same voltage.

Vwgti, very nice my friend







+1 for that great accomplishment!


----------



## vwgti

Well heres the new 3dmark06 score, I used to get 10500 at 3.0, and heres at 3.1. GFX oc still the same of 803-1998-950. Im uber impressed. Thanks for the vote of gratification to me think3r, well appreciated.

Edit, whats also whacked is that core 0 gives the higher temps, and which is the one I go buy, buy during stress tests etc it hits 206 at one point, I can post a temp log to show if required.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vwgti* 
Well heres the new 3dmark06 score, I used to get 10500 at 3.0, and heres at 3.1. GFX oc still the same of 803-1998-950. Im uber impressed. Thanks for the vote of gratification to me think3r, well appreciated.

Edit, whats also whacked is that core 0 gives the higher temps, and which is the one I go buy, buy during stress tests etc it hits 206 at one point, I can post a temp log to show if required.

Holy wow! You've beaten my top score, and my GPU is better! Congrats man! That is a HUGE accomplishment!


----------



## nategr8ns

wow, amazing 3dmark score!
I'm still stuck at 10,241 until I can get my temps better and my overclock past 2.8 suicide


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vwgti*


Well heres the new 3dmark06 score, I used to get 10500 at 3.0, and heres at 3.1. GFX oc still the same of 803-1998-950. Im uber impressed. Thanks for the vote of gratification to me think3r, well appreciated.

Edit, whats also whacked is that core 0 gives the higher temps, and which is the one I go buy, buy during stress tests etc it hits 206 at one point, I can post a temp log to show if required.


Vwgti, that is a huge jump from 3Ghz to 3.1Ghz! Most impressive


----------



## boonie2

These DFI bois settings are awsome , alittle too much for me right now tho , gonna take some trail and error for sure , anyone know which setting changes the command rate from 1T to 2T , whatever i change always shows 1T in CPUZ ? , all im adjusting right now is tcl trp trcd tras trc and trfc .. is it safe to set the rest to auto? dont want to set too many values until im sure what im doing in there


----------



## nategr8ns

trial*
I've also been wondering what settings for 1t and 2t, theres a few settings with those two options, and I don't want to change the wrong one








you should be fine setting the rest to auto.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


These DFI bois settings are awsome , alittle too much for me right now tho , gonna take some trail and error for sure , anyone know which setting changes the command rate from 1T to 2T , whatever i change always shows 1T in CPUZ ? , all im adjusting right now is tcl trp trcd tras trc and trfc .. is it safe to set the rest to auto? dont want to set too many values until im sure what im doing in there










In the memory timings,for option below the CAS timing. It should read Auto/Enable/Disable


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


trial*
I've also been wondering what settings for 1t and 2t, theres a few settings with those two options, and I don't want to change the wrong one








you should be fine setting the rest to auto.


Yeah I cant go any higher than 2.7 without changing to 2T


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


In the memory timings,for option below the CAS timing. It should read Auto/Enable/Disable


thanks ODIN







pssssssssssssst.. just bought some Corsair XMS Twinx DDR500 2GB


----------



## nategr8ns

higher than 2.7 what? ghz on the cpu? That's weird... stupid question, but what about lower dividers on the memory?
btw, pics looked good boonie. I'm going to do a little more looking for a DFI ultra-d or sli-d, but $50 is a darn good price imo. I'll let you know sometime later, but if you have another buyer I would probably sell to him if I were you.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


higher than 2.7 what? ghz on the cpu? That's weird... stupid question, but what about lower dividers on the memory?
btw, pics looked good boonie. I'm going to do a little more looking for a DFI ultra-d or sli-d, but $50 is a darn good price imo. I'll let you know sometime later, but if you have another buyer I would probably sell to him if I were you.


 Stupid answer........DIVIDERS?.... DOOOOOOOAAAAAAHHHHH







now i feel dumb didnt even think about dividers hahaha... ok thats it now i know im too tired , but Hey no problem on the board , Good luck theres 1 on ebay now for $82.01 , 22hrs left tho , I talked to the guy afew times , said hes having twins soon so hes selling his 939 stuff , seems like a nice enough guy , but its still hit and miss with EBAY


----------



## nategr8ns

dividers








I shall check that ebay one


----------



## boonie2

OPINIONS ?? 2-1gb of Muskin Redline DDR500 ... or ... 2-1gb of Corsair XMS Twinx DDR500

have an oportunity to get either at a very good price from someone here at OCN


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


OPINIONS ?? 2-1gb of Muskin Redline DDR500 ... or ... 2-1gb of Corsair XMS Twinx DDR500

have an oportunity to get either at a very good price from someone here at OCN


I'd put my vote in for the Muskin personally. Whichever one you don't buy though....you should let the guy know that I'm lookin for some RAM, and I'd buy the other kit







.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I'd put my vote in for the Muskin personally. Whichever one you don't buy though....you should let the guy know that I'm lookin for some RAM, and I'd buy the other kit







.


Ill let him know







gonna go for 3.0 this afternoon


----------



## prosser13

Mushkin!









It's meant to be amazing


----------



## nategr8ns

mushkin IMO. Who are you buying from?








how much are you getting them for?

Side note: Just relapped (very short time on 600 grit plus ~1-2 hours with 1500g) my Freezer, and applied MX-2 (thanks joe!). Temps are a tad better...

Quote:


Originally Posted by *old temps*
Session start:16:10:14, May 30, 2008
CPUID:0x20F32
Processorual Core AMD Opteron 175 (Toledo)
Revision:JH-E6
Time & DateCPU SpeedCPU#0 (Core#0)CPU#0 (Core#1)
16:50:12 05/30/082705.974752
16:50:13 05/30/082705.974751
16:50:14 05/30/082705.974751
16:50:15 05/30/082705.974751
16:50:16 05/30/082705.974751
16:50:17 05/30/082705.974751
16:50:18 05/30/082705.974751
16:50:19 05/30/082705.974851
16:50:20 05/30/082705.974952
16:50:21 05/30/082705.974951
16:50:22 05/30/082705.974852
16:50:23 05/30/082705.974851
16:50:24 05/30/082705.974851
16:50:25 05/30/082705.974852
16:50:26 05/30/082705.974852
16:50:27 05/30/082705.974852
16:50:28 05/30/082705.974752
16:50:29 05/30/082705.974751
16:50:30 05/30/082705.974752
16:50:31 05/30/082705.974851
16:50:32 05/30/082705.974752
16:50:33 05/30/082705.974852
16:50:34 05/30/082705.974751
16:50:35 05/30/082705.974751
16:50:36 05/30/082705.974751
16:50:37 05/30/082705.974852
16:50:38 05/30/082705.974651
16:50:39 05/30/082705.974752
16:50:40 05/30/082705.974751
16:50:41 05/30/082705.974652
16:50:42 05/30/082705.974751
16:50:43 05/30/082705.974851
16:50:44 05/30/082705.974951
16:50:45 05/30/082705.974752
16:50:46 05/30/082705.974450
16:50:47 05/30/082705.974451
16:51:06 05/30/082705.973942
16:51:07 05/30/082705.974249
16:51:09 05/30/082705.974247
16:51:12 05/30/082705.974351
16:51:12 05/30/082705.974451
Session end:16:51:13, May 30, 2008


Quote:


Originally Posted by *new temps*
Session start:11:52:36, May 31, 2008
CPUID:0x20F32
Processorual Core AMD Opteron 175 (Toledo)
Revision:JH-E6
Time & DateCPU SpeedCPU#0 (Core#0)CPU#0 (Core#1)
11:57:42 05/31/082705.974352
11:57:43 05/31/082705.974452
11:57:44 05/31/082705.974351
11:57:45 05/31/082705.974453
11:57:46 05/31/082705.974352
11:57:47 05/31/082705.974452
11:57:48 05/31/082705.974452
11:57:49 05/31/082705.974551
11:57:50 05/31/082705.974553
11:57:51 05/31/082705.974451
11:57:52 05/31/082705.974552
11:57:53 05/31/082705.974552
11:57:54 05/31/082705.974452
11:57:55 05/31/082705.974452
11:57:56 05/31/082705.974450
11:57:57 05/31/082705.974452
11:57:58 05/31/082705.974452
11:57:59 05/31/082705.974552
11:58:00 05/31/082705.974652
11:58:01 05/31/082705.974552
11:58:02 05/31/082705.974452
11:58:03 05/31/082705.974652
11:58:04 05/31/082705.974353
11:58:05 05/31/082705.974652
11:58:06 05/31/082705.974552
11:58:07 05/31/082705.974553
11:58:08 05/31/082705.974551
11:58:09 05/31/082705.974652
11:58:10 05/31/082705.974452
11:58:11 05/31/082705.974551
11:58:12 05/31/082705.974451
11:58:13 05/31/082705.974452
11:58:14 05/31/082705.974452
11:58:15 05/31/082705.974353
11:58:16 05/31/082705.974452
11:58:17 05/31/082705.974452
11:58:18 05/31/082705.974351
11:58:19 05/31/082705.974551
11:58:20 05/31/082705.974552
11:58:21 05/31/082705.974452
11:58:22 05/31/082705.974452
11:58:23 05/31/082705.974252
11:58:24 05/31/082705.974352
11:58:25 05/31/082705.974352
11:58:26 05/31/082705.974352
11:58:27 05/31/082705.974452
11:58:28 05/31/082705.974452
11:58:29 05/31/082705.974253
11:58:30 05/31/082705.974453
11:58:31 05/31/082705.974351
11:58:32 05/31/082705.974452
11:58:33 05/31/082705.974352
11:58:34 05/31/082705.974252
11:58:35 05/31/082705.974352
11:58:36 05/31/082705.974352
11:58:37 05/31/082705.974451
11:58:38 05/31/082705.974352
11:58:39 05/31/082705.974451
11:58:40 05/31/082705.974352
11:58:41 05/31/082705.974353
11:58:42 05/31/082705.974352
Session end:11:58:43, May 31, 2008

if you can't tell from the "session start" and the first temperature listed, I cut out a large section








hey boonie, I can't remember if I pm'd you back since we e-mailed








I'm going to keep looking for a DFI board, but if I can't find one in a little while and if your board is still for sale, I will probably get it


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Mushkin Redline DDR500s all the way.

Corsairs are a touch over-rated, I'm afraid to say.









Alright, dudes and dudette; gotta get ready and get decked out in me tuxedo (not Pr0j3kt Tux3d0) for my best friend's wedding. I'll likely be on radio silence until sometime tomorrow.

Play nice, y'all!


----------



## iandroo888

LOL nice reference >_> have fun


----------



## boonie2

yeah nate we talked , no problem , The Redlines are a done deal







, Pioneer I let him know that your interested in the other set BUT he said he might list them on eBAY SO..........


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
yeah nate we talked , no problem , The Redlines are a done deal







, Pioneer I let him know that your interested in the other set BUT he said he might list them on eBAY SO..........

Well dangit that really sucks. Oh well, back to my original plan of buying the cheapest 2x1GB kit of 400 I can find on the egg!


----------



## pioneerisloud

- I've just got a question. Pioneerisloud has almost decided to move to the dark side







. With that thought in mind, please be nice, and honest with this question







.

But what is my mobo, CPU, RAM worth if I were to sell it? Honestly?

A8N32-SLI Deluxe - Hits 375MHz HT Clock and boots to Windows (355 stable so far)
Opteron 165 LCBQE - Suicided at 3.27GHz, runs 3.0GHz all day long stable
OCZ Platinum DDR500 - Hits 275MHz EASILY on our MSI K8N board. The Asus board doesn't seem to like OCZ RAM







.
Would $100 + shipping for each part listed be a fair price? I don't have any buyers in mind just yet...but that's roughly what I'd need to make the switch.

And no worries guys, I will ALWAYS love my 939 stuff, and we'll (myself and froggy) still have 2 939 rigs going. And its not so much that I want to ditch my setup, because I absolutely LOVE IT!!! But I'm getting bored with it, and would like a change. And If I'm going to change, I might as well suite up to the dark side.

So...what do you think?


----------



## thlnk3r

Pioneer, I'm with you all the way. Do what you feel is best for your situation.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
anyone know which setting changes the command rate from 1T to 2T

Boonie, I believe this option is listed under DRAM Configuration>Command Per Clock (CPC).

Let me know if that helps

Good luck


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 







- I've just got a question. Pioneerisloud has almost decided to move to the dark side







. With that thought in mind, please be nice, and honest with this question







.

But what is my mobo, CPU, RAM worth if I were to sell it? Honestly?

A8N32-SLI Deluxe - Hits 375MHz HT Clock and boots to Windows (355 stable so far)
Opteron 165 LCBQE - Suicided at 3.27GHz, runs 3.0GHz all day long stable
OCZ Platinum DDR500 - Hits 275MHz EASILY on our MSI K8N board. The Asus board doesn't seem to like OCZ RAM







.
Would $100 + shipping for each part listed be a fair price? I don't have any buyers in mind just yet...but that's roughly what I'd need to make the switch.

And no worries guys, I will ALWAYS love my 939 stuff, and we'll (myself and froggy) still have 2 939 rigs going. And its not so much that I want to ditch my setup, because I absolutely LOVE IT!!! But I'm getting bored with it, and would like a change. And If I'm going to change, I might as well suite up to the dark side.

So...what do you think?























BLASPHEMY


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Pioneer, I'm with you all the way. Do what you feel is best for your situation.

Boonie, I believe this option is listed under DRAM Configuration>Command Per Clock (CPC).

Let me know if that helps

Good luck









Thanks think3r I found it , running prime on it now at 3.0 , this boards awsome {that board} im on Karens dell now


----------



## pioneerisloud

Double post...seriously wth happened right there? I went to edit, and it reposted it, lol.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 





















BLASPHEMY























I just KNEW that was gonna happen







.

But seriously....anybody else ever get the need to just up and change your rig? Seriously...I've been running and upgrading this rig for over a year now. I think its time to do a change.

Granted, yes...it does absolutely EVERYTHING I can ask of it to do, and it does it well I might add. I just want something.........different. Its not a matter of wanting more speed, or higher benchmarks. I just want to tinker with something new. And I cannot afford to actually just BUY a new combo like that, so this is really the only option I've got sadly







.

I dunno, I'll probably just stick it out with this rig, but it doesn't hurt to get other opinions. Like I said, this rig does EVERYTHING I could ask of it. Its just getting boring seeing the same ol' machine every day and knowing that I cannot for the life of me get her to clock any higher. At least with the dark side, I could POTENTIALLY have something more than 3.0GHz (not that I'd use it)...but its fun to see new numbers and processor names, lol.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I just KNEW that was gonna happen







.

But seriously....anybody else ever get the need to just up and change your rig? Seriously...I've been running and upgrading this rig for over a year now. I think its time to do a change.

Granted, yes...it does absolutely EVERYTHING I can ask of it to do, and it does it well I might add. I just want something.........different. Its not a matter of wanting more speed, or higher benchmarks. I just want to tinker with something new. And I cannot afford to actually just BUY a new combo like that, so this is really the only option I've got sadly







.

I dunno, I'll probably just stick it out with this rig, but it doesn't hurt to get other opinions. Like I said, this rig does EVERYTHING I could ask of it. Its just getting boring seeing the same ol' machine every day.

Pioneerisloud, that whole post reminded me of drag racing....it's a never ending money pit


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I just KNEW that was gonna happen







.

But seriously....anybody else ever get the need to just up and change your rig? Seriously...I've been running and upgrading this rig for over a year now. I think its time to do a change.

Granted, yes...it does absolutely EVERYTHING I can ask of it to do, and it does it well I might add. I just want something.........different. Its not a matter of wanting more speed, or higher benchmarks. I just want to tinker with something new. And I cannot afford to actually just BUY a new combo like that, so this is really the only option I've got sadly







.

I dunno, I'll probably just stick it out with this rig, but it doesn't hurt to get other opinions. Like I said, this rig does EVERYTHING I could ask of it. Its just getting boring seeing the same ol' machine every day.


Pioneer you have to know im just kidding with that comment







Its human nature to explore and examine new and uncharted territory , "Always tax the mind" always , "TO BOLDLY GO WHERE NO AMDer HAS GONE BEFORE , TO EXPLORE NEW CPUs , AND NEW MOTHERBOARDS , THESE ARE THE VOYAGES OF THE ..................oops got lost there for a sec.


----------



## GuardianOdin

pioneer: You'll probably just have to give me that Opty....becuase well you know. I sure could use a low volt 3.1Ghz


----------



## boonie2

hahahaha ouch , that was a zinger,ODIN ......... I mean pio look at my history......afew months ago i had a 4000 sandeigo , and always wanted something more, i say if you can do it go for it


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
pioneer: You'll probably just have to give me that Opty....becuase well you know. I sure could use a low volt 3.1Ghz









I would, except then I wouldn't have the money to rebuild the machine so its even functional







. If it wasn't for money I would though







. You guys know that though I'm sure.


----------



## iandroo888

wish i could get that ram >=[ my server is aching for more ram..

no worries pio.. me and my friend are already on the road to the dark side. he ordered an E8400 already.. im still deciding C2D or C2Q. lol. we lookin to get that DFI LANPARTY DK X48. planning on getting some 150gb raptors or that 300gb velociraptor and raiding.

still awaiting on video card pick. not sure which side to lean yet. so thats why we havent really decided on the mobo yet. if we got the DFI, gonna have to go xfire. awaiting to see that the HD4K series will bring before deciding.


----------



## GuardianOdin

well...I no go dark side. When I have the cash, I'll be building an AMD Quad plus Crossfire.








Keeping my fingers crossed that DFI will have some new 790FX Mobo's out with the new SB750


----------



## vwgti

Im with you pioneer, Ive been wanting to jump the intel wagon for a while, but I dont have the funds also. I am also bored with nothing new to tweak, but I will not part with this 939 setup for a while. So unless I can save the money to jump, I wont be doing so any time soon.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vwgti*


Im with you pioneer, Ive been wanting to jump the intel wagon for a while, but I dont have the funds also. I am also bored with nothing new to tweak, but I will not part with this 939 setup for a while. So unless I can save the money to jump, I wont be doing so any time soon.


Yeah, I think I'll be doing the same to be perfectly honest. I've put WAAAY too much time, money, and LOVE into my machine...to just trade it off for some......INTEL!!!

But at the same time though, something new to play with does sound fun. But I don't know if I could even get what I needed to get out of the parts







. Soo confused







.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Yeah, I think I'll be doing the same to be perfectly honest. I've put WAAAY too much time, money, and LOVE into my machine...to just trade it off for some......INTEL!!!

But at the same time though, something new to play with does sound fun. But I don't know if I could even get what I needed to get out of the parts







. Soo confused







.


True story here Pioneer , last weeki listed an A8N32 board / my old LCB9E OPTY and 2gb of OCZ PLAT. DDR400 bundled on ebay for a "buy it now" price of $275 {no auction} ... listed on wenesday and it sold on saturday







just something to think about







youd get $300


----------



## nategr8ns

First of all: Thinker, YOU DRAG?!?
what's your car, parts, stats, and can we see pictures?
lol

second of all: Pioneer, I think you should go for it if you can. I don't think you can get quite $100 for each part (maybe the memory, but not the other two). Opty might be about $90, motherboard $90-$100 (theres one for sale at $100 now). You could always go budget with an e2180 and a nice motherboard (p35/x38/48), with whatever memory. Sure, you'd probably have to put a little more money into it than you can make with your 939 rig, but that's to be expected of 3 generation old tech (it's 3 now, right?)
Just wish I had the cash to buy a new motherboard... deciding between boonie's a8n-sli and waiting for a DFI to come up for a bit cheaper than they're selling now...

btw, does anybody have any extra yellow UV sata/ide cables? There aren't any included with this DFI board I'm looking at now...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
First of all: Thinker, YOU DRAG?!?
what's your car, parts, stats, and can we see pictures?
lol

Nate, its a 93 mustang. Motor is bone stock with 100k on it. I just have a cold air intake with a k&n filter and advanced timing (14 degrees). The suspension is eibach drag launch kit with the air bag. I have lakewood 90/10 struts in the front and 50/50 shocks in the rear. Maximum motorsports lowering control arms, 5.0 short shifter, bbk subframe connectors, spec stage 1 clutch, bbk shorty headers, full exhaust no cats and 2 chamber flowmaster. The wheels are weld draglites and the tires are bfg drag radials(forgot size). I have about 6 passes so far. Best time with a horrible 60ft time was 14.02 at 99mph. My 60ft was 2.17. It's a high 13 second car if I can hook up







. I'm guessing the car puts down around 210-215 rwhp. Below is a pic:


----------



## nategr8ns

me thinks it needs a better paint job, maybe an opteron, dfi, or 939 logo somewhere?








is that 5.0 on the side for 5 liters? Or is that for the short shifter?
I don't know a lot about cars, just enough to seem smarter than the average joe (no, not you txtmstr)
did you install the parts yourself, or did you take it to a shop? When I get a car (probably my mom's '04 maxima when she gets a new car) I want to do some modifications to it. Mostly visual and fuel effieciency mods, but also a bit of performance. I really like the Weld wheels that are available in Need for Speed: ProStreet







.
edit: Is she street legal? I can't figure out what makes a car un-street legal, other than having nitrous hooked up (it's ok to have it, just has to have the hoses unplugged or something)


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
me thinks it needs a better paint job, maybe an opteron, dfi, or 939 logo somewhere? 








is that 5.0 on the side for 5 liters? Or is that for the short shifter?
I don't know a lot about cars, just enough to seem smarter than the average joe (no, not you txtmstr)
did you install the parts yourself, or did you take it to a shop? When I get a car (probably my mom's '04 maxima when she gets a new car) I want to do some modifications to it. Mostly visual and fuel effieciency mods, but also a bit of performance. I really like the Weld wheels that are available in Need for Speed: ProStreet







.
edit: Is she street legal? I can't figure out what makes a car un-street legal, other than having nitrous hooked up (it's ok to have it, just has to have the hoses unplugged or something)


I would believe that is perfectly street legal.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hey thlnk3r! That looks so much more boss than your black Civic Sedan!


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I'd put my vote in for the Muskin personally. Whichever one you don't buy though....you should let the guy know that I'm lookin for some RAM, and I'd buy the other kit







.


My Corsair is not good enough for you!?

In other news, I now have 4 GB of Redline running.


----------



## boonie2

Blitz , 1/2 way where with your Redlines? {in your sig} hummmmmmm? could have sworn it said 1/2 way there?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Hey thlnk3r! That looks so much more boss than your black Civic Sedan!










noth'in beats my slick black 94 Pontiac Bonneville.....


----------



## thlnk3r

Nate, yes it's a 5.0 liter. With a 100k on the motor is still runs pretty strong. It's street legal but with the full exhaust it kind of doesn't make it street legal but to me it's street legal haha. I have skinnies in the front so I try not to drive to much(pot holes in corona).


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


noth'in beats my slick black 94 Pontiac Bonneville.....

















Hmmm... I don't know.

My black 1996 Ford Probe GT (now with perma-water spots, due to hard water from my city's sprinklers) might be in the running...


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Hmmm... I don't know.

My black 1996 Ford Probe GT (now with perma-water spots, due to hard water from my city's sprinklers) might be in the running...










Mine has rust spots...due to all the salt Indiana uses during the winter. I'll be getting rid of the Bonnie soon I hope. It's be a trusty car, but it's dieing.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


Blitz , 1/2 way where with your Redlines? {in your sig} hummmmmmm? could have sworn it said 1/2 way there?


It did. Now it does not.

I will tinker with the timings later.

And Pioneer, when you say "low voltage," what can you do volted to 1.328 V? I might be interested if it is decent amounts.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


And Pioneer, when you say "low voltage," what can you do volted to 1.328 V? I might be interested if it is decent amounts.


Blitz, are you referring to his Opteron?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Nate, yes it's a 5.0 liter. With a 100k on the motor is still runs pretty strong. It's street legal but with the full exhaust it kind of doesn't make it street legal but to me it's street legal haha. I have skinnies in the front so I try not to drive to much(pot holes in corona).


Oh man.

You shouldn't try what I did last night, then.

Picture it: I'm on the I-15 North driving up from San Diego. The 60 West is coming up. The transition is a long looping banked right hander. The 60 freeway crosses below the I-15, so that means it's a downhill approach. This was at around 1:30 AM, too.

I'm approaching the curve at around 80MPH. The road dips down into the long looping right; I brake as late as I dare (I'm almost on top of the curve at this point), downshift down to 3rd from 5th, but since my brake pedal is very soft (my car needs a brake job) I couldn't get enough throttle to match revs perfectly. The fronts lock for one moment as I pop the clutch back out. I throw the car into the curve, on the throttle at around 60MPH.









I'd never dare to do something like that with a car with skinny fronts.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Oh man.

You shouldn't try what I did last night, then.

Picture it: I'm on the I-15 North driving up from San Diego. The 60 West is coming up. The transition is a long looping banked right hander. The 60 freeway crosses below the I-15, so that means it's a downhill approach. This was at around 1:30 AM, too.

I'm approaching the curve at around 80MPH. The road dips down into the long looping right; I brake as late as I dare (I'm almost on top of the curve at this point), downshift down to 3rd from 5th, but since my brake pedal is very soft (my car needs a brake job) I couldn't get enough throttle to match revs perfectly. The fronts lock for one moment as I pop the clutch back out. I throw the car into the curve, on the throttle at around 60MPH.









I'd never dare to do something like that with a car with skinny fronts.










Joe, yeah that's the thing with my car. It's only good for going in a straight line at this point. I deleted the front sway bar so it's useless for turning corners hard.


----------



## nategr8ns

Joe, all I can say is








Thinker, in the picture you posted, are those radials on your front tires? They don't look skinny








you should get some different tires in the front so you can stop worrying about potholes








I'm taking driver's ed this summer in july, my mom would never be able to drive a stick, but my dad used to have a VW beetle (old style) stick. I really want him to get another manual so I can learn...
Right now, everytime I'm in either of my parents cars in the pasenger seat, I've been using the car's "semi automatic", moving the shifter over to "+" and "-" mode. I'm still working on the downshifting


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
Joe, all I can say is



















Don't try what I described, kids. I'm a trained professional (or, rather, I play one on the internet).









Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
I'm taking driver's ed this summer in july, my mom would never be able to drive a stick, but my dad used to have a VW beetle (old style) stick. I really want him to get another manual so I can learn...
Right now, everytime I'm in either of my parents cars in the pasenger seat, I've been using the car's "semi automatic", moving the shifter over to "+" and "-" mode. I'm still working on the downshifting









Hehe, I'm quite biased with this opinion, but the only way to roll is with a fully manual transmission (i.e., gear lever + clutch). You really learn so much more when you learn how to drive with one of these.

I still remember when I was learning how to drive. Those were fun days. Stalling the car... learning how to use the clutch and throttle and brake all at once (three pedals, two feet







) when you're climbing up an incline from a dead stop... wow.

Upshifts are easy, but downshifts take lots of coordination. Even with a semi-auto, the danger (as my anecdote about last night's experience) is when you don't match revs. If you lock your drive wheels, if you're not careful, there's a real danger of a spin and losing control.

Good luck with driver's ed, Nate!


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Hehe, I'm quite biased with this opinion, but the only way to roll is with a fully manual transmission (i.e., gear lever + clutch). You really learn so much more when you learn how to drive with one of these.

that's why I want to learn... no close friends of the family own manual cars. Everybody else just doesn't want me grinding gears









Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Upshifts are easy, but downshifts take lots of coordination. Even with a semi-auto

yes, I know, hence this:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
I'm still working on the downshifting


----------



## Blitz6804

I gotta agree with Joe on this one. Every car I have ever driven has a slush-box. The mileage, performance, and control factors all go toward having to shift yourself. It is easier to unstick a manual from a snow drift than an auto, but depending where you live, this may not be a factor.

On the other hand, manual + rush-hour traffic = pain in left leg.

Does not change the fact that I still want one.


----------



## nategr8ns

what do you drive now? Or do you not need a car where you live?
NY public transportation may be a pain to some people, but it saves a lot on gas (not as much as walking though







)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

@ nate:





















Gotcha, cap'n!

Also @ nate: That reminds me. I have to go to one of the cycling shops around here and make good on one of my New Year's Resolutions: Get myself a bicycle!

@ Blitz: In Los Angeles, rush hour, bumper-to-bumper traffic is a fact of life most times. I don't know about the state of your left leg, but perhaps because of all the experience I have driving with a manual transmission in such conditions, muscle fatigue is never a factor.

Mental fatigue (not related to the type of transmission my car has), on the other hand, is another thing altogether.









@ nate again: Very true, what you say about public transportation. In the L.A. area, though, it's a huge inconvenience, believe it or not. The area is just not optimal for public transportation. The expansion pattern is horizontal. Compare that with New York City or Chicago, where the expansion is vertical (skyscrapers galore). Los Angeles has a small concentration of tall buildings in the civic center area, but everything else moves outwards from the middle of the city and into the surrounding suburbs. This is one huge reason why public transportation in L.A. is largely ineffective.


----------



## nategr8ns

I feel so valued, I got 3 responses in one post!!!









In other news, I may be getting a DFI SLI-D on the cheaps from eBay. It has a dead USB controller (I think, it may just be the USB headers for front panel and the such(hard to tell from description))
Please refrain from out-bidding me
















it ends in 20 minutes, and its still uber-cheap, this may be a sweet deal!
my to do list:
- Get an aftermarket NB cooler
- Get a new GFX cooler that doesn't take up 4 slots :swearing:
- sell current graphics cooler *hint hint*

check the new tags I added to this thread


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Must... outbid... nate...

(Looks at eBay for DFI Ultra D with defective USB...)
























Muhahahahahahaha


----------



## nategr8ns

was that you who just bid?
darn you joe!

edit: hey wait a minute! You already have a good (read: not dying) motherboard!
keep off my ebayz!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


was that you who just bid?
darn you joe!












Seriously?

I'm evil, but not THAT evil.


----------



## Blitz6804

I drive, as always, a slush-box. I found a Ford Focus SVT, but my parents would not hear of it. So instead, I had to get another ZX3 with an auto.

As to the left leg, you have been doing it all your driving life Joe, you would think nothing of it. I do know it was my mother's largest complaint when she had a manual transmission, and to date, she has only owned one car as such. (1985 Mercury Linx; was replaced with a 1988 Mercury Sable.)

Traffic in the Buffalo area is laughable. People tell me there is "heavy traffic" on a given day, and that means it takes me 15 minutes to get to college instead of 13. Wow, oppressive. When I went to undergrad, in the middle of the night, the drive was 35 minutes. Yes. I had occasions where I left college at 1, 2, and 3 in the morning. During normal, non-rush-hour conditions, it was about 50 minutes. During rush-hour, you were looking at 80-100. Lastly, in snow, my record was 210 minutes for longest pain. Check your mental state after that one...

And nategr8ns, public transport near Buffalo is poor. I have never tried transport in the city proper, in fact, I try to avoid going into the city whenever possible. As I have said, to drive to college is 13 minutes. To take the bus is 90 minutes. Which do you chose?


----------



## nategr8ns

drive for sure... lol
traffic in maine is even better (worse? I dunno







)
if their is traffic, it means you drive at 50 instead of 55.
I take trips to washington state every summer and the traffic there is actually real, although it is rare (at least compared to some places in NY and CA)
dang people, stop outbidding me!
I swear... ever since I posted about it...
whats with the *** in the "highest bidder" user name? I wish I knew who was bidding against me


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I drive, as always, a slush-box. I found a Ford Focus SVT, but my parents would not hear of it. So instead, I had to get another ZX3 with an auto.

As to the left leg, you have been doing it all your driving life Joe, you would think nothing of it. I do know it was my mother's largest complaint when she had a manual transmission, and to date, she has only owned one car as such. (1985 Mercury Linx; was replaced with a 1988 Mercury Sable.)

Traffic in the Buffalo area is laughable. People tell me there is "heavy traffic" on a given day, and that means it takes me 15 minutes to get to college instead of 13. Wow, oppressive. When I went to undergrad, in the middle of the night, the drive was 35 minutes. Yes. I had occasions where I left college at 1, 2, and 3 in the morning. During normal, non-rush-hour conditions, it was about 50 minutes. During rush-hour, you were looking at 80-100. Lastly, in snow, my record was 210 minutes for longest pain. Check your mental state after that one...

And nategr8ns, public transport near Buffalo is poor. I have never tried transport in the city proper, in fact, I try to avoid going into the city whenever possible. As I have said, to drive to college is 13 minutes. To take the bus is 90 minutes. Which do you chose?


I have driven mostly automatics and never had an issue getting unstuck in snow. BUT you also need to know how to drive







That's why in the winter I always carry 2 old nasty rugs with me. Slide those under the tires and boom your out. You can also rock the car back and forth. Keep that momentum going.


----------



## nategr8ns

meh, I lost it...
Trying to snipe at the last second, but Firefox3 RC1 can not use the refresh functions on ebay (the little refresh button that appears within 15 minutes of auction ending, and the "1 click bid" auto refresh when it hits 2 minutes or whatever)
so I refreshed, it said 2 seconds left, and somebody else bid just before me so my bid of $42 did not win, it tied








time to start hunting again! ugh

lol G.O., you could always just not try to drive over the snow bank at the end of your driveway from when the street-plow plows you in








that's the only place my parents have ever gotten stuck, my mom's too-low-for-Maine-roads-Maxima bottoms out when she tries to drive over it at ~3mph


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Oh man... I can tell you horror stories of misadventures of driving in SoCal. About the only thing that didn't happen during any of those times was snow.

There was this one time when I was heading home from San Diego (where my sister and her husband live). I left their house at around 11:30 PM. Home in the L.A. area is typically an hour-and-a-half drive from their place. I was stuck in a dead *stop* in the Buena Park area due to a major accident that happened just before a freeway exit, on a stretch where the exits were about three miles apart. Traffic didn't start moving again until around 4:30...

Of course, that was "engines off." Not stop-and-go traffic. But I tell you, full stop is far far far far worse when you know your bed is just thirty or so minutes away if only the road was open.









Edit: @ nate: I know about that eBay user. I look at all sorts of DFI boards on auction there, and there are two or three of those yo-yos with the *** in their eBay usernames.

Sorry you lost the auction.


----------



## Blitz6804

Whoever added the two newest tags (betterthanam2and775 and theonlyrealsocket), please be so kind as to add spaces to them?

My worst traffic ever was on the Cross Island Parkway. It takes you from the Throgs Neck Bridge to the Long Island Expressway, a distance of about three miles. My worst time was a fuzz over an hour. In dry weather.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


lol G.O., you could always just not try to drive over the snow bank at the end of your driveway from when the street-plow plows you in









that's the only place my parents have ever gotten stuck, my mom's too-low-for-Maine-roads-Maxima bottoms out when she tries to drive over it at ~3mph










We have some nasty backroads here in NW Indiana. State Road 2 for instance....they graded the road a while back and never repaved it. The grooves in the during the winter are horrid. Then there is the parking a lot where I work.....always fun with 6-8 foot snow banks


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Edit: @ nate: I know about that eBay user. I look at all sorts of DFI boards on auction there, and there are two or three of those yo-yos with the *** in their eBay usernames.


I think it's an eBay privacy-type function, where it removes the middle of the name, leaving the first character, three asterisks, and the last character.


----------



## Blitz6804

Exactly what it is nategr8ns.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


I feel so valued, I got 3 responses in one post!!!









In other news, I may be getting a DFI SLI-D on the cheaps from eBay. It has a dead USB controller (I think, it may just be the USB headers for front panel and the such(hard to tell from description))
Please refrain from out-bidding me
















it ends in 20 minutes, and its still uber-cheap, this may be a sweet deal!
my to do list:
- Get an aftermarket NB cooler
- Get a new GFX cooler that doesn't take up 4 slots :swearing:
- sell current graphics cooler *hint hint*

check the new tags I added to this thread


NATE is that the 1 where hes including the usb card? oh so you didnt win , {should have read further}im looking at an expert board auction now but 1 went already for $123 cant go that much..On a side note i still have that Thermalright HR-05 northbridge cooler that they guy shipped with my ultra board that im not gonna use. if you want it..


----------



## nategr8ns

maybe, I think I'm going to wait until I get a motherboard first. I've decided it's not worth spending money on this one just to trash it or make it a wall-hanging in under a month.
I'm probably also watching that same one, I think I have most of the dfi-939 boards in my watched list


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
maybe, I think I'm going to wait until I get a motherboard first. I've decided it's not worth spending money on this one just to trash it or make it a wall-hanging in under a month.
I'm probably also watching that same one, I think I have most of the dfi-939 boards in my watched list

NATE ,







you should have waited awhile after you got sniped on that DFI , iI just won the expert board for $56 NO KIDDING , we went out to dinner and I checked back to see what it went for , and no one bid after my $56 bid , couldnt belive it







tell you what ,I know youve been looking for awhile for a DFI , pm me and maybe we can work something out on the board in my sig...







with the memory slots moved / the CPU bracket turned 90* and the northbridge fan moved down on the expert board should work out better for my coolers and GPU


----------



## thlnk3r

Nate, the rear's are bfg drag radials. They are 275/50/r15 and the fronts are 165/r15. On the 14.02 pass I ran 10lbs in the rear.

In regards to the driving in traffic topic, I actually found driving with a manual transmission to be easier. I guess cause I always down shifted and used my brakes less


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


NATE ,







you should have waited awhile after you got sniped on that DFI , iI just won the expert board for $56 NO KIDDING , we went out to dinner and I checked back to see what it went for , and no one bid after my $56 bid , couldnt belive it







tell you what ,I know youve been looking for awhile for a DFI , pm me and maybe we can work something out on the board in my sig...







with the memory slots moved / the CPU bracket turned 90* and the northbridge fan moved down on the expert board should work out better for my coolers and GPU


wait, I didn't see a board ending???
I probably have to widen my search parameters... shoot...
I had a saved search: dfi 939.
the expert boards haven't had "939" in their title


----------



## GuardianOdin

bah...I need watercooled. The warm weather keeps reminding me....sniff sniff.....I hate lowering my clocks.


----------



## nategr8ns

bah, I need money so I can get a good motherboard, and watercooling


----------



## boonie2

It was listed under DFI LANPARTY ended at 5:45 PDT ......DOOOOOOOOAH .... PM me if your interested in my sig.board


----------



## canrinusace

Id like to join the Club, I run and Opty 165 at 1.8 ghz, i have had it oced and semi stable up to 2.5ghz, but i have a finickey processor so i leave it at stock, will be tryin to oc again just to 2ghz, i have undervolted the processor to 1.2 volts and it runs amazingly well compared to at its stock of 1.375.

I really love the AMD 939 series of chipsets, my first gaming rig had a athlon 3200 64 bit in it on a a8n basic board, processor was amazingly good, and it sold me on amd as i was an intel guy up to that point. Then a year and half ago i purchased an a8n sli-premium with the opty 165, the performance of the chip made me wet my pants as i felt i was running two 3200


----------



## GuardianOdin

Welcome canrinusace, Get a CPU-Z validation link for us and we can add to to the club.

2.5Ghz isn't bad,but I'll bet your Opty will go higher. There are a few members here that have your same Mobo and could better explain the settings for a higher OC. I have to run my volts a bit high to stay stable at 3Ghz and I think with some good water cooling I could run a solid 3.1Ghz. A lot of it has to do with you CPU stepping and again welcome!


----------



## canrinusace

done







just running stock atm







and it would be super sweat to find a good oc guide for this processor/board/bios as most people just talk about the multiplier and mhz


----------



## GuardianOdin

Use the validation link in CPU-Z so Joe can add the link to the roster and running stock is fine.No one has to be overclocked to be in the club.


----------



## canrinusace

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Use the validation link in CPU-Z so Joe can add the link to the roster and running stock is fine.No one has to be overclocked to be in the club.









oks done heres my id:369937

and a link right to it









http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=369937


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Use the validation link in CPU-Z so Joe can add the link to the roster and running stock is fine.No one has to be overclocked to be in the club.









actually i think you do









welcome to the club canrin!

boonie, I may be interested, but it's got to be on the cheaps















I got invited to go on an exclusive trip to italy with a teacher and some other classmates, it's an expensive trip








you can pm me







, I'm kind of busy atm


----------



## thlnk3r

Welcome Canrinusace to the club


----------



## GuardianOdin

nope, just have a socket 939 rig. Overclocking is just a plus.


----------



## Blitz6804

Welcome to the club canrinusace, you will be added to the roster as soon as txtmstrjoe gets home from work.

nategr8ns: Overclocking is not a requirement. You will notice a few members are stock clocked, and even two are underclocked. All that is required is a love for the best socket ever created for nostalgic membership, and a CPU-Z validation link or screen cap to become a full-fledged member.


----------



## nategr8ns

oh...
was it ever a requirement? I was the second member to join, and I think it might have been back then (because remember I was running stock at the time, and overclocked to ~2.7 to get the CPUz validation or screenshot)


----------



## Blitz6804

When I joined, it was not. Whether it used to be I could not tell you. Reading the first post (in its current version) mentions nothing about overclocking.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
oh...
was it ever a requirement? I was the second member to join, and I think it might have been back then (because remember I was running stock at the time, and overclocked to ~2.7 to get the CPUz validation or screenshot)

nope,never been required. I've been here since the Opteron thread "didn't join right away" I never seen any OC required. I could be mistaken thou.


----------



## nategr8ns

blitz, have you ever compared 3dm06 scores between using 2gb and 4gb of memory?
im curious...








and thinker, im also curious about car suspension. You mentioned that you had 90/10 struts in the front, and 50/50 struts in the back. Do the two numbers always ad up to 100? What does each number mean?
and if I happened to have a car (nissan) with really stiff suspension, is there any way of adjusting it without replacing it? given that there is ample room between the tire and the top of the inside of the... what are they called, wheel wells? the things inside the quarter panels...


----------



## Blitz6804

There is no difference between 2 GB and 4 GB if I am running only 3DM06. Further, there is no score difference between DDR393 and DDR500 with the CPU at the same clock.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
There is no difference between 2 GB and 4 GB if I am running only 3DM06. Further, there is no score difference between DDR393 and DDR500 with the CPU at the same clock.

That's so damn true I hate it. Also I notice no difference when running my HT at 377 vs 334 in 3D Mark 06....none. BUT I do when [email protected] Figure that out and I'll give ya a gold star and a lollipop


----------



## Blitz6804

3DM06 is not a CPU benchmarker. Instead, it is an overall-system benchmarker. Accordingly, it is less sensitive to CPU changes.

Is your HTT with the same multi both times? Could it have something to do with 334 having a higher HT than 377?


----------



## nategr8ns

that's weird, I had heard that more memory can actually lower your score...
I just figured it was because of more stress on the memory controller / more cpu cycles used up or whatever, I'm not sure exactly...
edit: jeez boonie, ebay says that your motherboard has $25 shipping to get to me... dang!
and what cables does the ultra-d come with?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
3DM06 is not a CPU benchmarker. Instead, it is an overall-system benchmarker. Accordingly, it is less sensitive to CPU changes.

Is your HTT with the same multi both times? Could it have something to do with 334 having a higher HT than 377?

377x8 multiplier
334x9 multiplier

I tend to keep the RAM around/near DDR500 for stability. My 3Ghz OC has not been stable with the weather getting warmer and it's very irritating. Also I think I goofed the RAM timings up as well becuase the error I get in Orthos/OCCT was the same when I goofed the RAM timings up before. I can't remember how I had them


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
that's weird, I had heard that more memory can actually lower your score...
I just figured it was because of more stress on the memory controller / more cpu cycles used up or whatever, I'm not sure exactly...
edit: jeez boonie, ebay says that your motherboard has $25 shipping to get to me... dang!
and what cables does the ultra-d come with?

ill have to check that , should be $15 shipping????? yep it did say $25














no wonder i didnt get any hits lol fixed it now at $15 w/insurance


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
and thinker, im also curious about car suspension. You mentioned that you had 90/10 struts in the front, and 50/50 struts in the back. Do the two numbers always ad up to 100? What does each number mean?
and if I happened to have a car (nissan) with really stiff suspension, is there any way of adjusting it without replacing it? given that there is ample room between the tire and the top of the inside of the... what are they called, wheel wells? the things inside the quarter panels...

Nate, there are adjustable struts and shocks. That question above is something that Joe may be able to answer. I went with the 90/10's after talking with other drag racing enthusiasts. To tell you the truth I forgot the difference between 90/10's and 70/10's.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
377x8 multiplier
334x9 multiplier

It likely has something to do then with the HT. At 377, your HT is likely 754 MHz. At 334, your HT is likely 1002 MHz. I am just guessing of course, but it is possible. The gain caused by the 12 MHz is being canceled out by the loss in the HT front.

Or, 3DM06 just is not sensitive enough to tell the difference.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
It likely has something to do then with the HT. At 377, your HT is likely 754 MHz. At 334, your HT is likely 1002 MHz. I am just guessing of course, but it is possible. The gain caused by the 12 MHz is being canceled out by the loss in the HT front.

Or, 3DM06 just is not sensitive enough to tell the difference.

I think 3D Mark06 just doesn't read it correctly. I should note that when I run 377 I keep the HT at 2 and 334 the HT is at 3, but yes you are correct. I can honestly say when I have it set to 377, [email protected] breezes thru units. Now when set at 334 it seemed to take forever to get thru a 5000 point unit. I very happy how it handles at 377.

This of course is going to need better cooling becuase of the higher volts I have to have the CPU at. Roughly 1.47Vot-1.5Volts according to CPUZ. I'm thinking watercooling for the CPU and NB. Maybe some better passive coolers for the rest of chips on the Mobo. It really depends how much I can cram under the hood


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Please welcome our newest member, canrinusace! Sorry it took ALL DAY for me to add you, but I'm here at work and it's hard to find a stolen moment to join you guys in our club house!









To answer a few questions off the top of my head:

@ nate: regarding the suspension: I wish I knew more about suspension specs and stuff like that. Drag racing cars aren't my cup of tea, unfortunately.

@ nate again: regarding the Nissan and its stiff suspension: Unless you have a really serious sports car (i.e., something like a Lotus or a Porsche or a Lamborghini), it's unlikely that the shocks and dampers are properly adjustable (i.e., to affect ride height). In fact, the length of the shock assembly more or less determines the ride height of a normal street car.

Normal street cars simply don't require that kind of fine tuning for their suspension. The reason is that 99% of the drivers out there simply wouldn't know how to tune the suspension in the first place because they don't know all the various forces acting upon the car, as well as the interaction of all those forces. They can't even properly describe what they're feeling from the driver's seat...

On the question of why 3DMark06 scores sometimes go down when you have 4GB of RAM: I've never run with 4GBs, but I think the reason why scores may come down has more to do with lowered bandwidth due to the need to run a higher divider than 1:1. Most K8s default to a divider when running 4GBs/4 DIMMs because of increased stress on the IMC; I'm guessing that the difference in bandwidth due to the slower RAM frequency may cause 3DMark06 scores to go down.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


@ nate: regarding the suspension: I wish I knew more about suspension specs and stuff like that. Drag racing cars aren't my cup of tea, unfortunately.

@ nate again: regarding the Nissan and its stiff suspension: Unless you have a really serious sports car (i.e., something like a Lotus or a Porsche or a Lamborghini), it's unlikely that the shocks and dampers are properly adjustable (i.e., to affect ride height). In fact, the length of the shock assembly more or less determines the ride height of a normal street car.

Normal street cars simply don't require that kind of fine tuning for their suspension. The reason is that 99% of the drivers out there simply wouldn't know how to tune the suspension in the first place because they don't know all the various forces acting upon the car, as well as the interaction of all those forces. They can't even properly describe what they're feeling from the driver's seat...

On the question of why 3DMark06 scores sometimes go down when you have 4GB of RAM: I've never run with 4GBs, but I think the reason why scores may come down has more to do with lowered bandwidth due to the need to run a higher divider than 1:1. Most K8s default to a divider when running 4GBs/4 DIMMs because of increased stress on the IMC; I'm guessing that the difference in bandwidth due to the slower RAM frequency may cause 3DMark06 scores to go down.


I doubt that either of my parents cars has adjustable suspension, but it's worth a try! I'm going to look behind the tires and browse the interwebs next time I have a chance








it's not to affect the height, just to soften the ride a bit. on both my parents cars, you can feel every crack in the road, even the minuscule ones.


----------



## thlnk3r

Joe, I'll be OC'ing a S939 3600+ soon. How high of an OC do you think I'll get


----------



## canrinusace

i would really like some help with ocing my opty 165 ive been successfull at doing it, but unsuccessful at keeping it stable, if anyone can give me a hand and knows the bios im working with add [email protected] to msn, or if your and x-fire user mcnoobinator. I would very much like some help at getting this thing to oc, and run stable before i get the parts for my am2 system


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, I'll be OC'ing a S939 3600+ soon. How high of an OC do you think I'll get









Easy 3.0GHz, man. Drop it in, let it fly, I say!

In fact, I ought to drop in my S939 X2 3600+ and see if I can hit 3.2GHz *on air*.









(Stable, too.)

(Muhahahahaha)

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
I doubt that either of my parents cars has adjustable suspension, but it's worth a try! I'm going to look behind the tires and browse the interwebs next time I have a chance








it's not to affect the height, just to soften the ride a bit. on both my parents cars, you can feel every crack in the road, even the minuscule ones.

For a softer ride, you'll definitely need new parts. New MacPherson struts and shocks, if I'm not mistaken.

What car(s) are we talking about here, nate? I'm most curious.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *canrinusace* 
i would really like some help with ocing my opty 165 ive been successfull at doing it, but unsuccessful at keeping it stable, if anyone can give me a hand and knows the bios im working with add [email protected] to msn, or if your and x-fire user mcnoobinator. I would very much like some help at getting this thing to oc, and run stable before i get the parts for my am2 system

Canrinusace, what was is your current stable overclock? Can you include some CPU-Z screenshots for us? Each tab would be helpful.

Let us know

Good luck









Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Easy 3.0GHz, man. Drop it in, let it fly, I say!

Joe, wow 3Ghz! Sounds easy enough. I'll try for 4.2Ghz and see where that takes me....


----------



## vwgti

Hey joe just wanted to update my latest stable oc, heres the link: http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=370046


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vwgti* 
Hey joe just wanted to update my latest stable oc, heres the link: http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=370046

Vwgti, is that OC at 1.45volts? Very nicely done!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, wow 3Ghz! Sounds easy enough. I'll try for 4.2Ghz and see where that takes me....

For sure, man!

Don't you know these modern chips, they OC real easy! Easy as 1-2-3, even.

What do you think, I'll hit my target of 3.2GHz with a stock cooler? You can go for 4.2GHz with whatever cooling strategy you want. I want to see how high these puppies can fly on stock cooling!

Do you think I'll get there on stock VCore too?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
For sure, man!

Don't you know these modern chips, they OC real easy! Easy as 1-2-3, even.

What do you think, I'll hit my target of 3.2GHz with a stock cooler? You can go for 4.2GHz with whatever cooling strategy you want. I want to see how high these puppies can fly on stock cooling!

Do you think I'll get there on stock VCore too?










4.2Ghz....I'll get the fire hose.

Headline reads in local paper
*OCN member txtmstrjoe burns eyebrows off
*
"Those poor eyebrows never stood a chance" reports one woman living next door.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
4.2Ghz....I'll get the fire hose.

Headline reads in local paper
*OCN member txtmstrjoe burns eyebrows off
*
"Those poor eyebrows never stood a chance" reports one woman living next door.





























Do you think they'll eventually grow back..?


----------



## vwgti

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Vwgti, is that OC at 1.45volts? Very nicely done!

Yes thats at 1.45 volts, thats what ran 3.15 stable but caused glitches in operating the machine, freezing etc. So I dropped it down to 3.1 ran a s&m and called it good, considering 3.15 ran 12 hours priority 9 but caused system freezes after.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

GJ, veedub!









(Oopsies! Just now noticed you sent in a new validation link. Gonna update your entry on the roster post-haste!)


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 



























Do you think they'll eventually grow back..?

sadly no,Their like caterpillars. Once you step on'em their dead


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


sadly no,Their like caterpillars. Once you step on'em their dead










Hmm.










This reminds me of an episode of "Night Court," when Assistant D.A. Dan Fielding had his eyebrows burned off by one of Judge Harry Stone's pranks.

Dan said, "I guess I'll go pencil in some features."









(You had to be there, I guess. HUGE "Night Court" fan here!







)


----------



## GuardianOdin

I loved Night Court!


----------



## canrinusace

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Canrinusace, what was is your current stable overclock? Can you include some CPU-Z screenshots for us? Each tab would be helpful.

Let us know

Good luck









Joe, wow 3Ghz! Sounds easy enough. I'll try for 4.2Ghz and see where that takes me....


last stable oc i had was everything the same as now except 9x220 with 1.3 volts, but that was on stock cooling......have had some system issues as of late and droped it back to stock. im at work right now but as soon as im home ill oc it back to what i had and cpuz it 4 u guys, ive had it as high as 2.9 enought to boot windows, and play a couple mins of cod4 then crashtaclar







. One thing i have noticed though is that most ocs of the opertons are on the asus a8n sli deluxe, is the premium version not as good for ocing???


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


For a softer ride, you'll definitely need new parts. New MacPherson struts and shocks, if I'm not mistaken.

What car(s) are we talking about here, nate? I'm most curious.










2004 nissan Maxima (going to be mine in a few years if I'm really lucky







)
2007 nissan murano, new as of just before winter, right before the '09s were released
btw, does the brand matter? And what price range is good to aim for? It would be nice to get my mom to invest in suspension before I get the maxima









Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Joe, wow 3Ghz! Sounds easy enough. I'll try for 4.2Ghz and see where that takes me....


Lol, something tells me that's being very optimistic


----------



## vwgti

The premium is just as good, the only difference is full bandwidth sli capabilities on the deluxe. I.E 16x 16x versus 16x 8x in sli.


----------



## canrinusace

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


sadly no,Their like caterpillars. Once you step on'em their dead










negative they just take a while to come back, and they come back bushier.....lets just say a few too many beers and someone told me to prank they guy.....


----------



## canrinusace

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vwgti*


The premium is just as good, the only difference is full bandwidth sli capabilities on the deluxe. I.E 16x 16x versus 16x 8x in sli.










aww i never knew this, ive had 3 boards in the a8n series, i had the top of the line none sli version, i have the premium, and i started with the a8n sli-deluxe with an athlon 3200 64 bit in it. sad thing is the delux board litterally blew up 1 day after the warrenty ran out


----------



## nategr8ns

^









edit: actually I was







ing at the post before, but that one is pretty funny too, in a bad way
you were owned by the warranty bomb.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *canrinusace*


negative they just take a while to come back, and they come back bushier.....lets just say a few too many beers and someone told me to prank they guy.....


LOL there's only one thing I have seen come back bushier....and I ain't talk'in about it here


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


2004 nissan Maxima (going to be mine in a few years if I'm really lucky







)
2007 nissan murano, new as of just before winter, right before the '09s were released
btw, does the brand matter? And what price range is good to aim for? It would be nice to get my mom to invest in suspension before I get the maxima










The brand of what? Parts? Probably.







Truth be told, I don't have enough money to do parts swapping on my car, but I have read so much on racing/racing dynamics/performance driving it's crazy.







In the real world, I've done some road rallying and have had quite a few stints as a test driver for Chrysler and for Ford, among other companies. I may not be able to advise on specific parts, but I've been told I'm very good at giving feedback.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Lol, something tells me that's being very optimistic










What do you say? A contest between thlnk3rb3ll and me? X2 3600+ vs X2 3600+?

Anybody want to place some bets on this?









Quote:



Originally Posted by *canrinusace*


negative they just take a while to come back, and they come back bushier.....lets just say a few too many beers and someone told me to prank they guy.....


Yes! No danger of permanent facial hair loss, then!









canrinusace, you'll fit right in with this merry bunch!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *vwgti*


The premium is just as good, the only difference is full bandwidth sli capabilities on the deluxe. I.E 16x 16x versus 16x 8x in sli.


Two different chipsets at play here, too. The A8N-SLI Premium/Deluxe use the nForce4 SLI chipset, while the A8N32-SLI Deluxe (as vwgti and pioneerisloud and I use) has the nForce4 x16. The nForce4 SLI has only one chipset on the board, while the nForce4 x16 has two (a "northbridge" and a "southbridge").


----------



## nategr8ns

I would bet, but I don't want to take sides


----------



## canrinusace

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Two different chipsets at play here, too. The A8N-SLI Premium/Deluxe use the nForce4 SLI chipset, while the A8N32-SLI Deluxe (as vwgti and pioneerisloud and I use) has the nForce4 x16. The nForce4 SLI has only one chipset on the board, while the nForce4 x16 has two (a "northbridge" and a "southbridge").


hmm i have to say when my deluxe worked i thought it was amazing, i didnt know how to oc at the time, but a friend of mine got my 3200 up to 2.3 with the stock cooling off the chips original 2ghx, and the board had pretty much all the bells and wistles of this one, but now that i know of the 16x-16x capability of the deluxe it urks me that i went to the top of the line for good sli support and come to find out one step down was better. hurumph lesson learned, but i cant really complain because i got the opty 165 and 2 gigs of giel ram for 350 bucks with it a year and a half ago.


----------



## thlnk3r

Joe, I'd like to take you up on that offer. My 3600+ vs. yours


----------



## boonie2

WELCOME Canrinusace


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, I'd like to take you up on that offer. My 3600+ vs. yours









Oh yeah.

It's Go Time, baby!


----------



## vwgti

Well Im dearly loving this 3.1, dvd backups are done in 5 mins, thats pretty damn fast in my books


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vwgti* 
Well Im dearly loving this 3.1, dvd backups are done in 5 mins, thats pretty damn fast in my books



















That's sweet, veedub!









What are you using to backup?


----------



## GuardianOdin

So you guys think with proper cooling I'll be able to maintain 3.1Ghz?


----------



## vwgti

@ joe, Im using the old time fav dvdshrink. @ guardian yes Im sure if the temps are kept down 3.1 will be stable for you also as it is for me.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vwgti* 
@ joe, Im using the old time fav dvdshrink.

Schweeeet.

I use that too.







Five minutes for a backup job is insanely fast!


----------



## vwgti

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Schweeeet.

I use that too.







Five minutes for a backup job is insanely fast!









How long does it take you out of curiosity sakes?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vwgti* 
How long does it take you out of curiosity sakes?

I guess it depends on the size of the DVD.

Let's see... The last one I did was a Bryan Adams DVD, and that one took around twelve or so minutes? That's from decoding to ripping onto the hard drive. I'll have to run a test to tell you exactly.

It'd be cool if we had a back-to-back test with the exact same DVD. 3.1GHz vs. 2.8GHz. No doubt yours will be faster, but I'm curious to see just how much.


----------



## pioneerisloud

New guy with the A8N Premium:
Ask away via here in the thread, or PM with somebody here that has said board (like myself), and I'm sure anybody here would be willing to help ya out. I'm willing to put money on it that you can hit 2.8GHz if not higher with your chip (considering if you have a decent cooler). Heck, I'm at 2.8GHz right now with only 1.25v rock stable.

I wanna see this 3600 vs. 3600 contest go down!

And Veedub!
Man, I STILL cannot believe you got 3.1GHz stable! I hope with my new cooler I'll hit that.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


So you guys think with proper cooling I'll be able to maintain 3.1Ghz?


Hopefully.









Ah... "Night Court"... that's one of those shows that I wish would be released on DVD. Sadly, they only did the first season, which was good, but all the golden stuff came about four or five seasons into the run.

(sigh) I miss that show.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Hopefully.









Ah... "Night Court"... that's one of those shows that I wish would be released on DVD. Sadly, they only did the first season, which was good, but all the golden stuff came about four or five seasons into the run.

(sigh) I miss that show.










Yeah, maybe have to find any other season on some torrents if they are even out there.


----------



## nategr8ns

only torrent if you actually own whatever you're downloading








otherwise it's illegal


----------



## nickbunyun

hehehe

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=370203


----------



## nategr8ns

sweet overclock!
what cooler are you using? I can't get past 2.7GHz...


----------



## nickbunyun

The stock one it came with.
It idles at 33.
AIM/mozilla/youtube- 36-38.
Counter Strike -> 40-42.

Last night i did the 3dMark06 CPU test, and it went up to 46... i didnt see it go higher than that..


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Most impressive, nickbunyun! With a stock cooler, no less!









I've updated your entry on the Club roster.


----------



## nategr8ns

damn, those temps are great!
they whoop my temps with a freezer64pro


----------



## nickbunyun

txtmstrjoe - thx!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


damn, those temps are great!
they whoop my temps with a freezer64pro










thanks..
but u also gotta consider that mine is a 180 at 2.4... and urs is at 2.2... u have an extra 200mhz to pull out..

btw..
i dont know much about RAM timing..

so what do u think of this?
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=370203


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nickbunyun*


txtmstrjoe - thx!

thanks..
but u also gotta consider that mine is a 180 at 2.4... and urs is at 2.2... u have an extra 200mhz to pull out..


Not really actually. His 2.2Ghz may only OC to 2.6Ghz and max out there. Now your 2.4Ghz could hit it's wall at 3.1Ghz. There is no way to tell to be honest. Every chip is different and a lot depends on the chips stepping/Vcore and such.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nickbunyun*


i dont know much about RAM timing..

so what do u think of this?
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=370203


Nick, nice OC









Have you started stability tests with Orthos? Make sure to run the blend test at priority 9. I usually like to run my tests overnight.
I noticed your running 3 sticks of memory. You may run into issues since the memory isn't matched ect. Have you tried just the 2 sicks of 512mb to see if your able to get farther? Nevertheless...excellent OC


----------



## nickbunyun

Well i used to have 4 sticks...

1GB pc3200
512mb pc3200
1gb pc2100
512mb pc3200

and i installed a new PSU (the 600watt ocz).
i didnt go thru windows, i went straight ahead in BIOS and OC'ed.
and it said "Memory test failed" (the-not-so-hot-voice-but-hopefully-good-looking-in-real-life lady).. so i took out the 512's i said ill stick to 2x1gb. but didnt boot up.
so i took out the 1gb 2100, and put in the 2x512.. and it booted up perfectly at 2.88ghz 
I played last night about 3-4 hours CS.. and checked my email... i let the 3dmark06 run the cpu tests.. 
and thats about it..


----------



## GuardianOdin

Well poo. I think I found my stability issue. Pretty much what ever I run 2.2Ghz or 3Ghz Orthos/OCCT and and S&M fail after a few minutes. I have reseat the CPU...again. The Big Typhoon is great with temps...but damn if it ain't heavy as hell. I'm going to take my rig into work tonight and clean it and reset the heatsink. It's either the temps or the Opty is dieing. I hope it's just temps.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nickbunyun*


Well i used to have 4 sticks...

1GB pc3200
512mb pc3200
1gb pc2100
512mb pc3200

and i installed a new PSU (the 600watt ocz).
i didnt go thru windows, i went straight ahead in BIOS and OC'ed.
and it said "Memory test failed" (the-not-so-hot-voice-but-hopefully-good-looking-in-real-life lady).. so i took out the 512's i said ill stick to 2x1gb. but didnt boot up.
so i took out the 1gb 2100, and put in the 2x512.. and it booted up perfectly at 2.88ghz 
I played last night about 3-4 hours CS.. and checked my email... i let the 3dmark06 run the cpu tests.. 
and thats about it..


Nick, just to be sure I would run Orthos over night to make sure your overclock is stable. It's not wise running a machine with an unstable OC. You might run into data corruption issues down the road.

Good luck dude


----------



## nickbunyun

aite i guess i can run it overnight..
i mean i leave my pc overnight always...

what exactly does orthos do?
i see itsa small program...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nickbunyun* 
aite i guess i can run it overnight..
i mean i leave my pc overnight always...

what exactly does orthos do?
i see itsa small program...

Nick, Orthos is an application that will stress the components of your machine. This is an excellent way to check for stability. If an OC is not stable then the test will fail. I usually run the blend test(cpu and memory test) at priority 9.

Let us know if you have more questions

Good luck


----------



## nickbunyun

aite..
hey well
i had my opty 180 for almost 2 weeks now..

and i dont have warranity on it..
but since i bought it brand new.. i can still buy warranity.. i have another 2 days to do so i think..
should i get it ?

Quote:

Final Reminder of Warranty Purchase Option
This is your final reminder of the option to buy a warranty on your recent eBay purchase.

SquareTrade Care Plans are the top selling warranty on eBay with coverage tailored to used & refurbished items bought on eBay. The service is 5-star rated with hundreds of 5-star reviews on Amazon.

SquareTrade has low prices - 40% less than other warranties. If the item can't be fixed, you get full item price back.

Care Plans are only available for a limited time from item purchase - you have 6 days left to purchase a Care Plan.
Item: amd opteron x2 dual core 180 skt 939 pin 2.4g
Item Price: $160.00
Care Plan Available: $18.99


----------



## canrinusace

heres an update with an oc, http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=370401

i noticed my fsb is way to high, how do i fix this as i only have 1024 :S


----------



## nategr8ns

^ that's 1980MHz, I think you have Cool and Quiet running, and it throttled your multiplier back to x9.
In BIOS, do you have AMD CnQ disabled?


----------



## vwgti

@ canrinusace under the chipset option in the bios ynder advanced menu, you want to change k8 to nb frequency to either 4x or 800 whichever option you have. Well everyone I ran orthos last night for just over 7 hours at 3.2 with 1.65 volts set in the bios. I am certain it would of continued further, but since Im sharing my comp with my dad till his gets back from warranty I stopped orthos before going to work. I will be running benchies in a bit so will be back with results guys.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nickbunyun*


aite..
hey well
i had my opty 180 for almost 2 weeks now..

and i dont have warranity on it..
but since i bought it brand new.. i can still buy warranity.. i have another 2 days to do so i think..
should i get it ?


Nick, since S939 chips are so hard to find how would they send you a replacement? I mean it's probably pointless to go with in my opinion. Besides you already broke the warranty when you started OC'ing. Anyone else think Nick should get the warranty?


----------



## nategr8ns

congratulations!
oh and guys, I almost forgot, I just bought an ultra-d for $59.99 -25.00 -4.7 for a total of $30.29.
Mmmmmm, coupons and gift certificates








Took a little while because of the darn paypal confused :swearing:
One of the ebay coupons required that I use a paypal account with the same email as my ebay account. I normally use my dad's paypal and just pay him back.
It wouldn't let me pay without entering credit card information (which I have none, stupid Key Bank won't give me a credit account until I turn 16, which makes no sense







)
Had to use one of my dad's extra cards, which is consented to.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


oh and guys, I almost forgot, I just bought an ultra-d for $59.99 -25.00 -4.7 for a total of $30.29.


Nate, you picked up a DFI Ultra-D?


----------



## vwgti

Well no improvement in 3dmark06 going from 3.1 to 3.2, each individual score is higher than at 3.1 but the overall score is no better.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*
oh and guys, I almost forgot, I just bought an ultra-d for $59.99 -25.00 -4.7 for a total of $30.29.

Nate, you picked up a DFI Ultra-D?










Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*
oh and guys, I almost forgot, I just bought an ultra-d for $59.99 -25.00 -4.7 for a total of $30.29.

You quoted the answer








Can't wait til it gets here... My machine is capable of playing most things maxed out, but I can't because the better the graphics / the more is going on, the more the hiccups come!
so frustrating!








I'm also still waiting on the 2x1gb of pc4000 that's supposed to be on the way. Should I PM mentholmoose and ask about it, or just be patient and not trouble him?


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
congratulations!
oh and guys, I almost forgot, I just bought an ultra-d for $59.99 -25.00 -4.7 for a total of $30.29.
Mmmmmm, coupons and gift certificates








Took a little while because of the darn paypal confused :swearing:
One of the ebay coupons required that I use a paypal account with the same email as my ebay account. I normally use my dad's paypal and just pay him back.
It wouldn't let me pay without entering credit card information (which I have none, stupid Key Bank won't give me a credit account until I turn 16, which makes no sense







)
Had to use one of my dad's extra cards, which is consented to.


WAY TO GO














USED / NEW ??


----------



## nategr8ns

used








http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWA:IT&ih=019
not pictured are the i/o plate and some cables, I sent him a message and said he forgot to put them in the picture, but that he could included them








not sure how I feel this:

Quote:

I took this board out of a pc that had a power supply go bad on it. I havent used the board since, so it may or may not be working, as i dont have another power supply. This board was a great board in my old pc. Here are the specs:
but it's a gamble...
what's DFI's customer service like? Just in case


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
used








http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWA:IT&ih=019
not pictured are the i/o plate and some cables, I sent him a message and said he forgot to put them in the picture, but that he could included them








not sure how I feel this:

but it's a gamble...
what's DFI's customer service like? Just in case










I think i might have been watching that one too , might be kinda hit and miss with the PSU going bad , not sure how DFIs service is , hope i dont need to find out lol , if you dont get the cables or plate let me know I have lotz of extras You can have for free


----------



## canrinusace

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
^ that's 1980MHz, I think you have Cool and Quiet running, and it throttled your multiplier back to x9.
In BIOS, do you have AMD CnQ disabled?

CnQ is disabled, and my board only supports a 9x multiplier, when CnQ is enabled it brings me down to 8x multiplier.......


----------



## nategr8ns

^








its usually not a motherboard thing... oh I get it! I thought you had a 180 or 185... lol


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vwgti* 
Well no improvement in 3dmark06 going from 3.1 to 3.2, each individual score is higher than at 3.1 but the overall score is no better.

2422 on a 939 CPU is a great score! That's probably the max I'm thinking.


----------



## Iceman0803

Hi all! I just got back from Mexico yesterday and geez you guys (and gal) have been busy while I was gone! I had like 12 pages of reading to do! Also, welcome to canrinusace.


----------



## GuardianOdin

welcome back! Have fun in the sun?


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


welcome back! Have fun in the sun?


Yep it was awesome! We had a condo right on the beach in Rocky Point. Just hung out on the beach and drank Dos Equis (really good Mexican beer). Also had some great tacos (and more beer







) at JJ's Cantina.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *canrinusace*


heres an update with an oc, http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=370401

i noticed my fsb is way to high, how do i fix this as i only have 1024 :S


Canrinusace, perhaps I am missing something but those numbers add up correctly. 220mhz * 9 is 1980mhz...

Good luck


----------



## canrinusace

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Canrinusace, perhaps I am missing something but those numbers add up correctly. 220mhz * 9 is 1980mhz...

Good luck


well i know the oc for that is fine, its my htt sitting at 1100, shouldnt be more than 1000, and i cant for the life of my figure out how to change that in my bios, its also the main reason i cant do a stable oc as i get mem read failures after a short while as im trying to put to much threw the chip


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *canrinusace* 
well i know the oc for that is fine, its my htt sitting at 1100, shouldnt be more than 1000, and i cant for the life of my figure out how to change that in my bios, its also the main reason i cant do a stable oc as i get mem read failures after a short while as im trying to put to much threw the chip









Canrinusace, you need to change the HT (hypertransport) multiplier. In your BIOS go to Advanced -> CPU Configuration. Use the down arrow key and go to "Hyper Transport Frequency". Hit [Enter] and from there you should be able to change it from [Auto] to either 1x, 2x, 3x, 4x or 5x. Change it to 4x and see if that helps. That should take you to 880mhz HT

Hope that helps


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Canrinusace, you need to change the HT (hypertransport) multiplier. In your BIOS go to Advanced -> CPU Configuration. Use the down arrow key and go to "Hyper Transport Frequency". Hit [Enter] and from there you should be able to change it from [Auto] to either 1x, 2x, 3x, 4x or 5x. Change it to 4x and see if that helps. That should take you to 880mhz HT

Hope that helps









Dang. thlnk3rb3ll beat me to it!









Good job, man!


----------



## vwgti

Canrinusace I already posted that under the advanced menu, then chipset, you need to change the k8 to nb frequency.


----------



## canrinusace

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Canrinusace, you need to change the HT (hypertransport) multiplier. In your BIOS go to Advanced -> CPU Configuration. Use the down arrow key and go to "Hyper Transport Frequency". Hit [Enter] and from there you should be able to change it from [Auto] to either 1x, 2x, 3x, 4x or 5x. Change it to 4x and see if that helps. That should take you to 880mhz HT

Hope that helps










awesome i was looking at that today and wanst sure what it was or did, it isnt labled ht in my bios its got some weird name that as a fairly nub ocer i was scared to touch, if i change it to 4x and continue to push the oc will i eventually end up having to back it down, i really want to get the opty stable a 2.5 which from what i have read is pretty much the standard oc of the opty 165s


----------



## canrinusace

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vwgti* 
Canrinusace I already posted that under the advanced menu, then chipset, you need to change the k8 to nb frequency.

i know but i have no idea what it meant







think of me as stupid people when it comes to bios terms, as im just starting to learn my way threw it


----------



## GuardianOdin

my rig is completely apart right now and being cleaned


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *canrinusace* 
awesome i was looking at that today and wanst sure what it was or did, it isnt labled ht in my bios its got some weird name that as a fairly nub ocer i was scared to touch, if i change it to 4x and continue to push the oc will i eventually end up having to back it down, i really want to get the opty stable a 2.5 which from what i have read is pretty much the standard oc of the opty 165s

Canrinusace, you have to change the HT multiplier to 3x if you keep upping the HTT (reference clock)...which of course is no problem at all. There really isn't a performance hit if your HT (hypertransport) speed is low. As long as it's above 680mhz and below 1080mhz.

G.O., good luck









Joe, thanks


----------



## GuardianOdin

it's time for zip ties again


----------



## canrinusace

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Canrinusace, you have to change the HT multiplier to 3x if you keep upping the HTT (reference clock)...which of course is no problem at all. There really isn't a performance hit if your HT (hypertransport) speed is low. As long as it's above 680mhz and below 1080mhz.

G.O., good luck









Joe, thanks









well when i get home tonight im going to give another go at the oc, ill let you guys know my results, and id also like to once i do the oc do a stress test on the system, i saw a link the forums and have heard talk of one thats standard to use, is it reliable, ive read in many places that prime is a good stress tester, but i really have no idea how to stress test, and id also like to benchmark my rig too but well save that for a different time

also i noticed to days that every 100mhz i increase my processor i earn 1 degree celcius per core, and my heatsink tends to keep me at 10degrees over idle under load, is there a safe max load temp i should shoot 4?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *canrinusace* 
i know but i have no idea what it meant







think of me as stupid people when it comes to bios terms, as im just starting to learn my way threw it

Totally not your fault.







OCing can be confusing because there really is no standardized usage of terminology in BIOSes.

Props to veedub (and everyone) here, though!







Great job, Club S939!


----------



## canrinusace

just a quick question to add to this great infos you guys have been giving me, but if under volt the processor will i do harm to anything, ive found my processor runs really hot when at stock voltage and doesnt perform as well, as soon as i undervolted the processor it cooled down and was perfoming better. I assume this has to due with the chip series mine is as i have read many places that some optys need lots of power while othes dont need as much, it all just depends on the manufactured group there in. Is this true/false????


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *canrinusace*


just a quick question to add to this great infos you guys have been giving me, but if under volt the processor will i do harm to anything, ive found my processor runs really hot when at stock voltage and doesnt perform as well, as soon as i undervolted the processor it cooled down and was perfoming better. I assume this has to due with the chip series mine is as i have read many places that some optys need lots of power while othes dont need as much, it all just depends on the manufactured group there in. Is this true/false????


Canrinusace, it's true and false. Some of the Opterons require more voltage than others. Some hardly require anything at all. Opteron 175's, 180's and 185's apparently require more voltage for a higher OC. The 165's and 170's require less but it also depends on your target OC.
Over time high voltages can lead to electromigration which in time will kill the processor. By the time you do notice the performance degrading you'll probably be on your new build so it's probabl nothing to worry about. It might be wise though to purchase a new aftermarket cooler. Cooler temps are always a plus.

Good luck


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


it's time for zip ties again


getting ready to do the same thing here in afew minutes , zipping all my power leads till i can afford a modular PSU , and adding an HR-05 sli northbridge cooler







then ill be going for the "MAGIC 3.0" .....UPDATE: 2gb Redline ddr500s should be here saturday


----------



## vwgti

Just wanted to rant, Ive been trying to reinstall the orange box since 8pm, its now almost 11.30. Why dosnt friggin steam show how much of whatever it is downloading is down of the total size. This is really starting to piss me off, god dammit all I wanted to do was play a game, is it necessary for the client to automatically download the game patches before it installs the game.


----------



## canrinusace

Quote:



Originally Posted by *canrinusace*


heres an update with an oc, http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=370401

i noticed my fsb is way to high, how do i fix this as i only have 1024 :S


got the same thing going now, stable and htt is only at 880 its all good


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vwgti*


Just wanted to rant, Ive been trying to reinstall the orange box since 8pm, its now almost 11.30. Why dosnt friggin steam show how much of whatever it is downloading is down of the total size. This is really starting to piss me off, god dammit all I wanted to do was play a game, is it necessary for the client to automatically download the game patches before it installs the game.


Vwgti, sometimes I experience latency issues when trying to connect to Steam. I'm pretty sure it's normal. There are so many users playing TF2


----------



## GuardianOdin

Ok rig is back together. I ran Orthos for an hour at 3Ghz. It's the temps. I simply need a better cooling solution.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Ok rig is back together. I ran Orthos for an hour at 3Ghz. It's the temps. I simply need a better cooling solution.


You know...I'm thinking that may be my problem too, since I was able to be in Windows at nearly 3.3GHz..I'm sure I can wrastle SOMETHING higher stable...once I get better temps.


----------



## GuardianOdin

I turned the AC on in the office at work and never hit over 53c while benching. I'm guessing some good watercooling will set me even lower.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Just be advised, guys, that even with LCS, it's not likely that you'll get K8s much over 3.2 - 3.3GHz. To get over that you'll need massive voltage injection, which means a cooling system much more effective than even water. (This is assuming you want to actually keep running at this speed, which means being stable. Nearly impossible, I'd theorize...







)

Some random musings:

G.O.: Good to see you've got your rig back up again!







Zip ties = PC tweakers' best friends!









boonie: I LOVE the new avatar!









canrinusace: Undervolting won't hurt the CPU. The only risk you run is if you run the VCore too low to sustain stability. An unstable processor means risking OS and data corruptions.

canrinusace again: I'm wondering now whether or not your CPU's temp sensors might be pulling a fast one on you. Do you happen to know what your CPU's stepping batch code is? Some LCB9E chips report core temperatures that are higher than typical, which suggests that the sensors might be calibrated to read high.

At our Club in general: Again, I just want to say that I'm so proud of our group. I really do believe that ours is the best club on OCN.







Thank you, guys, for making it as awesome as it is.









I just installed Ghost Recon: Advanced Warfighter 2. It's actually an interesting game. Older, and quite a bit different compared to BF2 or TF2. I'm not much of an FPSer, but it's interesting how they've made stealth such a vital component. I'm still getting used to it, too, so I'm getting killed all the time.


----------



## -iceblade^

well, this is a great place, and even though i don't post often, it's a valuable storehouse of info and help...

great work guys... Continue to keep S939 alive and well


----------



## boonie2

off to work , everyone had a good day







3.0 after work and testing , picture in my profile if anyones interested {still need to drill my case holes}


----------



## nickbunyun

and my scroll lock is going on and off


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nickbunyun*











and my scroll lock is going on and off


That happens when Orthos stops. Try upping the voltage, or turning down the clock. Can't really advise more than that with the image you've provided







.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vwgti*


Just wanted to rant, Ive been trying to reinstall the orange box since 8pm, its now almost 11.30. Why dosnt friggin steam show how much of whatever it is downloading is down of the total size. This is really starting to piss me off, god dammit all I wanted to do was play a game, is it necessary for the client to automatically download the game patches before it installs the game.


You should have bought the CDs








It usually only takes a few hours for me. If you double click on the game (it will say "TF2 Launching..." or something like that, it will open a window that tells you how long until you can play. Try that out, see what it says.


----------



## nickbunyun

yyou know whats weird..

I had put 3GB of ram in my PC, and when i overclocked it said

MEM: 3072 MB
Usable: 2048 MB

so when i installed the new PSU, im like.. ill just take one gig one, since it only uses 2gb.

but today when iwent to turn it down, i saw taht it said

MEM: 2048mb
Usable: 1024mb


----------



## nategr8ns

partially-dead stick of memory?
no idea...


----------



## -iceblade^

yeah, that does sound wierd...

maybe try reinstalling windows? or running memtest?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nickbunyun* 
yyou know whats weird..

I had put 3GB of ram in my PC, and when i overclocked it said

MEM: 3072 MB
Usable: 2048 MB

so when i installed the new PSU, im like.. ill just take one gig one, since it only uses 2gb.

but today when iwent to turn it down, i saw taht it said

MEM: 2048mb
Usable: 1024mb



Nick, where is this information displayed? This is interesting...

Could you also post a CPU-Z screenshot of each *tab* at that current OC of 2822mhz?

Good luck


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nickbunyun*











and my scroll lock is going on and off


Do you have the stock heatsink on the Opty?


----------



## GuardianOdin

O yeah!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


O yeah!











Guardian, that is so awesomagezzzz


----------



## nickbunyun

i downclocked it back to 2.4 for right now until i find more infos.
i dont wanna run into troubles.

when i get back home i guess i can post up every tab..
but now that i downclocked it back to 2.4.
all 2gb of ram are working..
when i get home ill add the 3rd one... and its that ones working..

hum..


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Guardian, that is so awesomagezzzz










hehehe


----------



## txtmstrjoe

G.O., I wonder if there's a way for you to stay at Rank #939?









Coooolnessity!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


G.O., I wonder if there's a way for you to stay at Rank #939?









Coooolnessity!










keep steady at folding....but lay off every now and again...hmmm


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *canrinusace* 
also i noticed to days that every 100mhz i increase my processor i earn 1 degree celcius per core, and my heatsink tends to keep me at 10degrees over idle under load, is there a safe max load temp i should shoot 4?

If it is socket 939 (which I assume it is) do not exceed 65Âº C.

If it is socket 940 (which I am sure it is not) do not exceed 71Âº C.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *canrinusace* 
just a quick question to add to this great infos you guys have been giving me, but if under volt the processor will i do harm to anything, ive found my processor runs really hot when at stock voltage and doesnt perform as well, as soon as i undervolted the processor it cooled down and was perfoming better. I assume this has to due with the chip series mine is as i have read many places that some optys need lots of power while othes dont need as much, it all just depends on the manufactured group there in. Is this true/false????

There is absolutely nothing wrong with undervolting as long as it is stable. Just ask Pioneer or anyone with CnQ enabled...

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
getting ready to do the same thing here in afew minutes , zipping all my power leads till i can afford a modular PSU , and adding an HR-05 sli northbridge cooler







then ill be going for the "MAGIC 3.0" .....UPDATE: 2gb Redline ddr500s should be here saturday

Congrats Boonie. Let me know what you think of the stuff.

To the club as a whole: I think I mentioned it already, but I am again running 4 GB of RAM. Once I get the SI-128 reseated, I will try pushing the megahertz. The goal is 2.8 GHz at stock voltage and 24/7 stability. My RAM then is running at DDR 400, although, providing the bandwidth of DDR 365 given that it is asynchronous. I may even do that now, as I am only loading in the high 50s, but I still miss my Zalman, which only loaded in the low 50s. Given this fact, I am unlikely able to get 3 GHz with this cooler.


----------



## nategr8ns

what do you guys think, should i get another new cooler?
im loading mid 50s at 2.6ghz. I think i may not be able to get more than 2.7ghz on my opty 15


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
what do you guys think, should i get another new cooler?
im loading mid 50s at 2.6ghz. I think i may not be able to get more than 2.7ghz on my opty 15









I forget, nate: Is your Freezer 64 Pro lapped or not?

If it is, clearly it's not nearly as good as the Intel version of the heatsink is. I've been chewed out by some for saying the Freezer 64 Pro is inadequate for high OCs on S939 dual-cores...

(Vindication via corroboration FTW.







)


----------



## nategr8ns

yes it is lapped (400/600/1500 grit papers)
I'm really disappointed in it... My Accelero on my 8800gt does so well! I just got two antec tricools on it and I now load (ATItool) in the mid/high 30s. It's Crazy!!!
oh and btw, I'm now testing 2.75GHz with a priority 9 blend test with Orthos. 10 minutes in now! Will orthos tell me what gives any errors? Or will it just say "Warning, unstable" or something? I want to know if my memory is adequate.

Core Speed: 2750MHz
Multi: x11.0
Bus Speed 250MHz
HT Link: 1000MHz
DRAM Frequency: 196.4/5MHz
CL: 3
tRCD: 4
tRP: 4
tRAS: 8
tRC: 12
CR: 2T
Idle timer: 16
(Timings are pretty loose on purpose)


----------



## GuardianOdin

I thought the Opty's were socket 940.


----------



## Blitz6804

Orthos would do what happened to Nick. (Recall: his post)

And G.O., they came in both flavors.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Orthos would do what happened to Nick. (Recall: his post)

And G.O., they came in both flavors.


So it will just say "fatal error"?

I guess I can check my stress.txt file and see if it has any more information (assuming the test fails)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Opterons first came out on S940. These are the "real" server-class Opterons. Their IMCs are for ECC RAM (essential for "real" server duty). The S939 Opterons, on the other hand, are binned Athlon64s. A feature-for-feature comparison (as well as schematic-for-schematic comparison) between Athlon64s with 1MB L2 cache per core and the Opterons (whether single- or dual-core) shows that they are, indeed, identical except for the core codename designation.

In other words,

for single-core chips with 1MB L2 cache, San Diego (Athlon64) = Venus (Opteron);

similarly, for dual-core chips with 1MB L2 cache, Toledo (Athlon64 X2) = Denmark (Opteron).

@ nate: If Orthos spits out a rounding error, either the chip needs more VCore, or it's running too fast for the voltage it's on (which is essentially the same thing, actually). The fun part is if you're running the Blend test; if you haven't established just your RAM's highest maximum clock (by testing it separately), it's tough to say whether it's the RAM or the CPU causing the failure.


----------



## nategr8ns

awe dang... I should be fine with my memory though, so I'll assume its my processor if I get a rounding error :\\


----------



## Blitz6804

Before you write off your processor, try loosening tRC to 19 and tRFC to 22. Let us know how it goes.


----------



## nategr8ns

will do, next reboot








edit: woohoo, 1.25 hours stable!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


try loosening tRC to 19 and tRFC to 22


Blitz, why does changing those settings provide more stability? Can you explain?


----------



## Blitz6804

I cannot really explain no. The "ideal" settings for tRC is tRAS+tRP and the "ideal" setting for tRFC is tRC + 3 Â± 1. However, I found that no matter what I set my other timings at (even trying 5-5-5-10 at one point) I could not get the computer to POST over HTT=255. I loosened the tRC and the tRFC way open (more than the 15/18 as reccomended above) I finally not only POSTed in excess of 255, but in fact, in excess of 272, finally giving my 3 GHz.

Precursory experimentation does not seem to yield much in the way of performance one way or another, but they are a large factor in stability near as I can tell.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


O yeah!











THERES THAT "EYE" AGAIN HAHAHA WERNT YOU THE ONE THAT CAUGHT MY 939TH POST?


----------



## nategr8ns

woo hoo! 1 hour, 55 minutes stable!
guess what I just found out... The DFI Ultra-D supports up to 4.0V ON THE FRIGGIN DIMMS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!
I thought feeding my memory 1.7 was a lot, jeez...


----------



## Blitz6804

Congrats nategr8ns. You just made the club 4000 posts long.

Personally, I would not risk that much vDIMM... unless you have large "heatsinks" if you know what I mean.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


what do you guys think, should i get another new cooler?
im loading mid 50s at 2.6ghz. I think i may not be able to get more than 2.7ghz on my opty 15











Had the freezer Pro too for awhile {still have it } till my thermaltake , Personally I think the whole problem with those is the low rpm 92mm fans they use , max for my fan was like 2400 , just isnt enough .... switched it out with zip tied silverstone on the intake side and a 80mm on the exhaust side , kept load temps around mid 50s at 2.9 ...... trying these thermaltake coolers out now..


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I cannot really explain no. The "ideal" settings for tRC is tRAS+tRP and the "ideal" setting for tRFC is tRC + 3 Â± 1. However, I found that no matter what I set my other timings at (even trying 5-5-5-10 at one point) I could not get the computer to POST over HTT=255. I loosened the tRC and the tRFC way open (more than the 15/18 as reccomended above) I finally not only POSTed in excess of 255, but in fact, in excess of 272, finally giving my 3 GHz.

Precursory experimentation does not seem to yield much in the way of performance one way or another, but they are a large factor in stability near as I can tell.


Blitz, thank you for that explanation. I'll try those settings when I start playing with my other processors


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


woo hoo! 1 hour, 55 minutes stable!
guess what I just found out... The DFI Ultra-D supports up to 4.0V ON THE FRIGGIN DIMMS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!
I thought feeding my memory 1.7 was a lot, jeez...



Its a jumper option but you better have the fire extinguisher handy lol


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


Had the freezer Pro too for awhile {still have it } till my thermaltake , Personally I think the whole problem with those is the low rpm 92mm fans they use , max for my fan was like 2400 , just isnt enough .... switched it out with zip tied silverstone on the intake side and a 80mm on the exhaust side , kept load temps around mid 50s at 2.9 ...... trying these thermaltake coolers out now..


hehe I have an 80mm on the back too








I was thinking of getting a vantec tornado for the intake side though...

BS! My bedroom (yes, thats it) just lost power! It started raining a little harder, and my new dual monitor setup + 600w computer + macbook charging = shortage
god darn it...
I beat 2 hours orthos blend though







60C max on the higher core


----------



## Blitz6804

Uninteruptable power supply for the win?

Might I suggest an APC Back-UPS RS 1500VA like I have? I get about 30 minutes run time to safely shut down.

I am still trying to get the parents to buy me the add-on battery pack which supposedly triples run time.


----------



## nategr8ns

price?








I think the house isn't really wired correctly, 2 monitors and 2 computers should not short the fuse...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

nate, whatever you do, do not enable 4V for VDIMM.









That jumper was useful when voltage-hungry ICs like the legendary BH-5s were the bee's knees. Modern RAM ICs simply don't need that kind of voltage.

Come to think of it, one of the wonders of the computing industry is squeezing much more power and performance from transistors using less and less voltage. S939's efficiency compared to AM/AM2 and Core 2 is inferior, admittedly, but that's the reality of technological progress.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
price?








I think the house isn't really wired correctly, 2 monitors and 2 computers should not short the fuse...

Nate, if those machines are plugged straight into the wall then I would take them off ASAP. The BR1500 is $239 on Newegg. That model actually might be overkill for your equipment. I run the 725BB at home and it has provided plenty of backup power. It switches to battery probably at least 1-2 times a day. Apparently the power on my street is dirty.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

True, that model is likely overkill, even with my equipment. Then again, I also have my cable modem, router, d-switch, phone, PS3, 360, Xbox, Wii, ..., et cetera plugged into it.

As thlnk3r said, the other advantage of a UPS: it works as a power filter. If you start getting browned out, it will supplement with battery. If your power oscillates, it will stabilize it.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Has anybody noticed that Scorpion has a really toothy smile?









I wholeheartedly second the recommendations to run your system through a UPS. Here's mine; sometimes BestBuy has it on sale. I bought it at less than this price several months ago.

A question for you S939ers: How many of us run multiple S939 rigs? How about a small informal roll call of your S939 chip + mobo combos?


----------



## vwgti

Just the single system here. I cant afford more than computer,


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vwgti*


Just the single system here. I cant afford more than computer,










In your case, veedub, quality > quantity!









I'm embarrassed to go first with my menagerie of S939 boards + CPUs, but here goes:

Abit AT8 32X + Opteron 170 (2.72GHz)
Abit KN8 SLI + Opteron 165 (2.655GHz)
Biostar T-Force 6100-939 + Athlon64 X2 3800+ (Manchester) (2.5GHz)
Asus A8N32-SLI Deluxe + Opteron 170 (2.8GHz)
DFI LANParty UT nF4 Ultra-D + Opteron 170 (stock right now; CPUs are often on rotation)
Presently, only the Asus and the Biostar are "live;" the KN8 SLI is at my parents' house. The AT8 32X and the DFI are presently not operational.


----------



## vwgti

Nice line up you have there, I wish I had so many toys to sit and tweak with.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Thanks, veedub!









thlnk3rb3ll will soon own the Biostar, though.







We've just finalized a swap.

I'm also contemplating selling the DFI, actually. I offered it to nate not too long ago, but we couldn't reach agreement on a price for it. But I'm glad that he apparently has found one that he can use to replace his dying MSI.


----------



## thlnk3r

Just on so far









DFI LANParty UT nF4 Ultra-DR + Opteron 170 (3000mhz 1.34volts)


----------



## nategr8ns

just the one, but I have a 3800+ sitting in my dresser, and soon I will have the MSI hanging on my wall








I didn't realize that UPSs were so... necessary?
what are the consequences of not using a UPS?

edit:
oh, and what are some slightly more budget ones? I don't really have the $170 to spend on the UPS that joe linked at bestbuy.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


what are the consequences of not using a UPS?


Nate, if your plugged straight into the wall then your at a higher risk of having damaged hardware. You could loose your entire system in a split second. Trust me I know from experience


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


just the one, but I have a 3800+ sitting in my dresser, and soon I will have the MSI hanging on my wall








I didn't realize that UPSs were so... necessary?
what are the consequences of not using a UPS?

edit:
oh, and what are some slightly more budget ones? I don't really have the $170 to spend on the UPS that joe linked at bestbuy.


With patience and some diligence, you can find a UPS on sale somewhere. I myself try to never pay full price for anything if I can help it. I waited a good long time before I bought that particular UPS.









Here's my other UPS (for my office rig, which has lower power requirements than my gaming rig). Eminently more affordable, for sure.









UPSs are quite important, especially in areas prone to lightning strikes and inclement weather. As has already been mentioned, they can take the shock of an electrical overload and save your system. Moreover, they can be easily configured to shut down the rig properly in the event of a power loss. It's exactly like insurance: The one time you don't have it is the one time you desperately need it.


----------



## prosser13

I wanna start posting in here









Don't feel I can properly yet...

Leant my DDR600 to a benching mate and still need to pay for my DFI and Opty


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *prosser13*


I wanna start posting in here









Don't feel I can properly yet...

Leant my DDR600 to a benching mate and still need to pay for my DFI and Opty










Hey, jump right in, prosser!







Most of us are real friendly.

Just watch out for that Evil Joe. He's known to rear his ugly evil head from time to time. Him and that boob pioneer.


----------



## prosser13

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Hey, jump right in, prosser!







Most of us are real friendly.

Just watch out for that Evil Joe. He's known to rear his ugly evil head from time to time. Him and that boob pioneer.











Thanks man









I'm suscribed so I'll try and stick in...I think I still have most of my 939 knowledge so I'll do my best to help out.

And don't worry, me and boobs tend to get along nicely...


----------



## canrinusace

current 939 rig

asus a8n sli premium with an operton 165
ausu a8n basic with an athlon 64 3500

past was an a8n sli delux with a athlon 64 3200

the 3500 rig i built for mom as shes runs a website, and wanted something reliable, the opty is mine for gaming, multi media, ect.

the 3200 was my 1st experience with amd and i will never go back to intel, i just wish that amd just kept making 939 chips as its an awesome chipset all three 939 chips have performed well and above what i ever expected out of amd


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *prosser13*


Thanks man









I'm suscribed so I'll try and stick in...I think I still have most of my 939 knowledge so I'll do my best to help out.

And don't worry, me and boobs tend to get along nicely...










Mega!

And I feel sorry for you for your friendship with pio.


















(j/k pio! You know I love you, man!







)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *canrinusace*


current 939 rig

asus a8n sli premium with an operton 165
ausu a8n basic with an athlon 64 3500

past was an a8n sli delux with a athlon 64 3200

the 3500 rig i built for mom as shes runs a website, and wanted something reliable, the opty is mine for gaming, multi media, ect.

the 3200 was my 1st experience with amd and i will never go back to intel, i just wish that amd just kept making 939 chips as its an awesome chipset all three 939 chips have performed well and above what i ever expected out of amd


Amen, brother!


----------



## prosser13

50,000 views









You should be proud guys


----------



## boonie2

Currently DFI LANPARTY UT NF4 ULTRA D - OPTERON 170 @ 2.8 {soon to be dfi expert]

second: ASUS A8N SLI DELUXE - AMD 4000+ SANDEIGO @ 3.0 {but running at 2.8}--{karens}

ASUS A8N32 - needs a processor







maybe for folding rig


----------



## pioneerisloud

What about boobies? I heard something about them!!!!


----------



## thlnk3r

Joe, hows the 3600+ overclock going?

Let's just say my suicide runs have exceeded 2.8Ghz at 1.7volts


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, hows the 3600+ overclock going?

Let's just say my suicide runs have exceeded 2.8Ghz at 1.7volts



















I haven't even put the chip in yet. I'm Mr. Tardy.

I'll have to get the testing rig out of mothballs and put that X2 3600+ in.

BTW, pics or it didn't happen.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 

BTW, pics or it didn't happen.









Joe, soon enough my friend


----------



## pioneerisloud

Wow thlnk3r, 1.7v? I sure hope you're bluffing!!!

My newest test is now underway. Underclock and underVOLT that X2 Manny to roughly 1.6Ghz or so. HTPC use doesn't require heavy processing power







.


----------



## GuardianOdin

1.7Volts!...scares me

OK guys, I'm starting my watercooling fund Friday. I'm already in the negative


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hehe

1.7V with air is old hat.









Been there, done that. No fire extinguisher needed or used, either.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Hehe

1.7V with air is old hat.









Been there, done that. No fire extinguisher needed or used, either.










so,how much life is taken away from the CPU at 1.7volts?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


so,how much life is taken away from the CPU at 1.7volts?


To be honest, I don't know.

But this chip is really resilient. The very same CPU is still in the socket and is still quite healthy, judging from the last time I last had it active.

I'm certain of this, though: When it finally kicks the bucket and goes to microchip heaven, I'll very likely have moved on to AMD's latest.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


O yeah!











lol nice. dang. im at like in mid 300s rank.. went pretty fast to here.. now hecka slowed down.. unless i get like quad cores, i dont think my rank gonna change much anymore..


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


To be honest, I don't know.

But this chip is really resilient. The very same CPU is still in the socket and is still quite healthy, judging from the last time I last had it active.

I'm certain of this, though: When it finally kicks the bucket and goes to microchip heaven, I'll very likely have moved on to AMD's latest.










I think a lot of use are heading that way. AMD's new hardware will play games and everything else just fine. I'm a firm believer that properly installing drivers goes a long way. I say this becuase I see many many people having issues with new products when they shouldn't be.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Yeah. I'm waiting until *The Bulldozer* is out and mature.









Maybe late next year?

Or maybe that upcoming 12-core Opteron..?










In fact, thlnk3r and I already have intentions of getting one each of these silicon overkills. I told him I'll call mine "V12 Lamborghini" while his ought to be "V12 Ferrari."


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Yeah. I'm waiting until *The Bulldozer* is out and mature.









Maybe late next year?

Or maybe that upcoming 12-core Opteron..?









In fact, thlnk3r and I already have intentions of getting one each of these silicon overkills. I told him I'll call mine "V12 Lamborghini" while his ought to be "V12 Ferrari."










OH yeah! well since AMD machine is green....I'm going for Devastator V12...so there mister









I would love to run one of those. Whats the specs on the Bulldozer?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


OH yeah! well since AMD machine is green....I'm going for Devastator V12...so there mister









I would love to run one of those. Whats the specs on the Bulldozer?


It's part of the Fusion program. Here's what wikipedia has to say about it.









Basically it'll be a hybrid CPU + GPU design. Pundits such as _Computer Power User_ magazine columnist Alex St. John posit that the time is rapidly coming that CPUs will more closely resemble GPUs (with their parallel processing ability) than the current generation of CPUs, and Bulldozer is one of AMD's future product lines that will conform to this design ethic.

Devastator, huh? Just like the Constructicons!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


It's part of the Fusion program. Here's what wikipedia has to say about it.









Basically it'll be a hybrid CPU + GPU design. Pundits such as _Computer Power User_ magazine columnist Alex St. John posit that the time is rapidly coming that CPUs will more closely resemble GPUs (with their parallel processing ability) than the current generation of CPUs, and Bulldozer is one of AMD's future product lines that will conform to this design ethic.

Devastator, huh? Just like the Constructicons!










I do like the idea, Lets hope they have it by time we all upgrade. Yep just like the constructicons.


----------



## nategr8ns

woah, looks like I won't have to go Intel after all...
this whole AM2 thing was kind of... disappointing?
Those falcons and sandtiger cores sound beastly


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


I think a lot of use are heading that way. AMD's new hardware will play games and everything else just fine. I'm a firm believer that properly installing drivers goes a long way. I say this becuase I see many many people having issues with new products when they shouldn't be.


Could you tell that to nVidia please? One little MCP driver is what is preventing me from switching to Vista full-time.

For those who have forgotten:

nForce3 + AGP + ATI + dual-core AMD + Vista = BOMB

Disabling one core makes it work as does using the plug-and-play driver instead of ATI driver. nVidia cards run at AGP 4x instead of 8x, but will run.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Could you tell that to nVidia please? One little MCP driver is what is preventing me from switching to Vista full-time.

For those who have forgotten:

nForce3 + AGP + ATI + dual-core AMD + Vista = BOMB

Disabling one core makes it work as does using the plug-and-play driver instead of ATI driver. nVidia cards run at AGP 4x instead of 8x, but will run.

Blitz, that's what you get for running Windows MEII


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz, that's what you get for running Windows MEII









eewwww!... I felt the heat off that one


----------



## Blitz6804

I never had a problem with Win ME.

Win 98 on the other hand...

Am I the only one who misses DOS 6.0?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I never had a problem with Win ME.

Win 98 on the other hand...

Blitz, ok seriously how can you say that? Windows 98SE was way more stable then Windows ME.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Windows ME was great after I switched to XP and never had to use it again. 98 was pretty stable I have to admit.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Scorpion thinks Sub-Zero's got frostbite in his brain casing if he seriously thinks Windows ME was better than Win98SE.









Windows ME = Worst OS EVER.


----------



## thlnk3r

Joe, little off topic but you have a 427CI's in your rep


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Joe, little off topic but you have a 427CI's in your rep










Ford V8 POWER! Muhahahahaha

Just like that Shelby Cobra I saw last weekend.

"There's no substitute for cubic inches." ~ Carroll Shelby


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, ok seriously how can you say that? Windows 98SE was way more stable then Windows ME.


agreed...


----------



## GuardianOdin

Hey Joe, what was that study you wanted to do with the HTT? You mentioned it when I was able to hit 377HT x 8 multiplier. Off to bed now, I'll check back later.


----------



## nategr8ns

bed so early? What time was it there, 4:00? 3:00?!?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


bed so early? What time was it there, 4:00? 3:00?!?


Nah. Our friend G.O. works the owl shift. Tough gig, actually, to work nights.

G.O.: I'm a little sketchy on your question (or was it my question? LOL) about the HTT. I'll have to go backwards and find that bunch of posts and see about what we need.


----------



## nategr8ns

I searched (manually, of course







), but I couldn't even find his post about his HTT. I do remember reading it though...


----------



## krazieaznboi

How can I join the club? Do I just leave a CPU-Z link and Superpi SS?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *krazieaznboi* 
How can I join the club? Do I just leave a CPU-Z link and Superpi SS?

All you need is a simple CPUz validation link. You can post it here, or PM it to any of the club officers (found on the main page). Then your name will be added to the roster along with your clocks and join date







.

BTW...I HATE my motherboard!

My Jetway 939GT SLI 4 motherboard, just took a set of Kingston Hyper X (2x512MB) DDR400.....all the way up to DDR533 with 3,3,2,8,2T timings! Testing stability now at DDR500 speeds.

And in my board, said RAM HAD to run at DDR400 with 3,4,4,8,2T timings...or no POST.


----------



## krazieaznboi

well, i have been running my PC only at 2700mhz, im going to try to push it and see what i can get first. ill reply back in 15 mins or so.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Found it









Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Well, one of the many claims I'm trying to test with my currently-postponed experiment is whether or not RAM dividers (or, more precisely, RAM divider settings for the same HTT Freq and the same CPU Freq) affect bandwidth or if they even translate to any perceptible real-world effects (i.e., effects a user can actually perceive). Once I get that ball rolling again, we ought to have some numbers to back up the claims/theories.

Personally, I'd like to see if "CPU Speed is King." Which basically means you get the most performance gains from increasing CPU Frequency, as opposed to trying to run the smallest RAM divider (and therefore, the highest RAM OC) possible.


----------



## krazieaznboi

here's what i can whip up in 20 mins.

http://members.shaw.ca/wzeng/s939.jpg

yea, i don't know if its stable or not. but it haven't had any troubles yet. I might push my OC even more and run orthos overnight


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *krazieaznboi* 
here's what i can whip up in 20 mins.

http://members.shaw.ca/wzeng/s939.jpg

yea, i don't know if its stable or not. but it haven't had any troubles yet. I might push my OC even more and run orthos overnight

Drop your HT to 2
HTT to 334
RAM at 133

see if that won't get you to 3Ghz

I need to run 1.425 Volts on the CPU to stay stable


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Found it









Awesome, G.O.!

Well, let me put a question to everyone here. Since thlnk3r challenged me to a X2 3600+ vs. X2 3600+ contest, I'll have to postpone my RAM experiments until I get a good clock in for this showdown.

What do you want to see first? The clash between the two Manchester X2s? Or the battery of RAM tests?

Also, a hearty welcome to our newest member to our unholy cabal, krazieaznboi!


----------



## pioneerisloud

I say lets see what them Mannys can do!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Awww... only the head boob is around to reply.

Yo, pio: Which motherboard of yours did you say you hated?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Awww... only the head boob is around to reply.

Yo, pio: Which motherboard of yours did you say you hated?

My ASUS A8N32. It seems that it hates me. Check out my sig....paying special attention to the memory part. Its over an hour stable so far at those speeds.

Now that SAME EXACT RAM on my Asus board...will hit 200MHz (DDR400) with 3-4-4-8-2T Timings and 2.80v. On THIS board...its only at 2.75v, and *DDR500!* My board just hates ANY RAM I try in it, it seems.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Wow.









Seems like yours behaves more like how they say DFIs behave. Mine has been a honey with RAM from Day One.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Wow.









Seems like yours behaves more like how they say DFIs behave. Mine has been a honey with RAM from Day One.

Exactly! I'm wondering if I should RMA with Asus...but I don't even know if they'll accept a board this old, and send me the same board back. I'm paranoid like that...I won't do it unless they can send me the same model back.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Awesome, G.O.!

Well, let me put a question to everyone here. Since thlnk3r challenged me to a X2 3600+ vs. X2 3600+ contest, I'll have to postpone my RAM experiments until I get a good clock in for this showdown.

What do you want to see first? The clash between the two Manchester X2s? Or the battery of RAM tests?

Also, a hearty welcome to our newest member to our unholy cabal, krazieaznboi!









Manny's!!!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Exactly! I'm wondering if I should RMA with Asus...but I don't even know if they'll accept a board this old, and send me the same board back. I'm paranoid like that...I won't do it unless they can send me the same model back.

Hard to say. Don't know if Asus still has these boards in their inventories since S939 is "obsolete."


----------



## krazieaznboi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Drop your HT to 2
HTT to 334
RAM at 133

see if that won't get you to 3Ghz

I need to run 1.425 Volts on the CPU to stay stable



windows won't boot if i have my ram over 250MHZ. i rather keep 250MHZ on the ram than set ram to 133 just to get the 3MHZ. if you know what i mean.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *krazieaznboi*


windows won't boot if i have my ram over 250MHZ. i rather keep 250MHZ on the ram than set ram to 133 just to get the 3MHZ. if you know what i mean.


Just try it for now. Loosing the extra Mhz on the RAM isn't really going to hurt anything. If you can reach 3Ghz, then up the RAM back to 140 or 150. Are you using a multiplier of 8 or 9?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Hard to say. Don't know if Asus still has these boards in their inventories since S939 is "obsolete."










 I really doubt they would have in stock still. I emailed DFI about 5 months ago to see if they had any ULTRA-D's/ Experts and what not and they said they none in stock and that the Mobo's were Phased Out. But who knows, worth a shot emailing ASUS.


----------



## krazieaznboi

nine


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *krazieaznboi*


nine


ok, I would suggest dropping the RAM down and tighten the timings on it. You should be safe with SuperPi that way. I can keep my RAM between DDR494 and DDR532 and not kill my 28 second 1M run on SuperPi. ALOT of it has to do with the timings and sub-timings Vs actual Mhz


----------



## krazieaznboi

my ram is already really tight.

http://members.shaw.ca/wzeng/s939.jpg


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


All you need is a simple CPUz validation link. You can post it here, or PM it to any of the club officers (found on the main page). Then your name will be added to the roster along with your clocks and join date







.

BTW...I HATE my motherboard!

My Jetway 939GT SLI 4 motherboard, just took a set of Kingston Hyper X (2x512MB) DDR400.....all the way up to DDR533 with 3,3,2,8,2T timings! Testing stability now at DDR500 speeds.

And in my board, said RAM HAD to run at DDR400 with 3,4,4,8,2T timings...or no POST.


Those Jetway boards are badass for the price. I have 2 of 'em myself.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Iceman0803*


Those Jetway boards are badass for the price. I have 2 of 'em myself.










Aren't they, though?

Some boob now has my Jetway. Scored my first 3-pointer with it, actually.







Part of me misses her, but at least I know her new owner puts her to good use.


----------



## GuardianOdin

more more news coming out about the new SB750! I'm excited


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Aren't they, though?

Some boob now has my Jetway. *Scored my first 3-pointer with it*, actually.







Part of me misses her, but at least I know her new owner puts her to good use.










Me too I actually had my opty at 3.0GHz on mine for a little while. The only reason I stopped using it tbh was because, no matter what I did, I couldn't get my 2GB OCZ plats to play nice with it.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
BTW...I HATE my motherboard!

My Jetway 939GT SLI 4 motherboard, just took a set of Kingston Hyper X (2x512MB) DDR400.....all the way up to DDR533 with 3,3,2,8,2T timings! Testing stability now at DDR500 speeds.

And in my board, said RAM HAD to run at DDR400 with 3,4,4,8,2T timings...or no POST.

wow, that's crazy!
So DFI's usually have problems with RAM? uh oh...

And is this jetway sli board that everybody is talking about the one on newegg? edit: nvm, it's not listed anymore


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


wow, that's crazy!
So DFI's usually have problems with RAM? uh oh...

And is this jetway sli board that everybody is talking about the one on newegg? edit: nvm, it's not listed anymore










DFIs don't have "problems" per se with RAM; they just acquired a reputation for being difficult to configure because of the plethora of adjustment options available in the BIOS. In comparison with other "enthusiast class" motherboards such as the Asus A8N32-SLI Deluxe, DFI's LANParty UT line have BIOSes where you can adjust virtually everything.

When I get my digi-cam back from my sister, I'll take some shots of the A8N32-SLI Deluxe's BIOS and compare it with my DFI LANParty UT nF4 Ultra-D's.

The Jetway is a brute (its BIOS isn't geared for ultra-fine adjustments like the A8N32-SLI Deluxe's or the DFI LANParty's are), but it gets the job done better than some other highly-touted motherboards I've played with.







It's like a muscle car.


----------



## nategr8ns

I <3 American Muscle









UV On! Tweak Fun headaches!

I'm already prepared to run stock until I can figure out which settings are what. My MSI-K8n Neo4-f has lots of options, but they are labeled a little more user friendly, I think.


----------



## The Duke

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
wow, that's crazy!
So DFI's usually have problems with RAM? uh oh...

And is this jetway sli board that everybody is talking about the one on newegg? edit: nvm, it's not listed anymore









The BIOS revisions are a bit dated in the below post, but it does reflect on some RAM quirks...
http://www.overclock.net/faqs/38268-...roduction.html


----------



## boonie2

Good guide , thanks







, for basic info and a walk thru i suppose


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Thanks for the link, Duke!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Just bought me an OCN account...woot!


----------



## nategr8ns

woot!!! we gots to think up a title for you








thanks for the link duke


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Methinks you'll like the customizable user title feature a lot.









Congrats, G.O.!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


woot!!! we gots to think up a title for you








thanks for the link duke


Brute Squad thanks to Joe









Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Methinks you'll like the customizable user title feature a lot.









Congrats, G.O.!


Just starting to check it out.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Methinks you'll like the customizable user title feature a lot.









Joe, few more weeks and I'll be able to change my avatar title


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, few more weeks and I'll be able to change my avatar title









Might I suggest "thlnk3rb377"?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Might I suggest "thlnk3rb377"?


















iiiiiIIIII LIKE IT!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

^^









BRB

Gotta change me user title to match G.O.'s...


----------



## GuardianOdin

Hahaha....who's Wesley? and who's Buttercup?.....Pioneer lol


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I gotta get me a "Princess Bride" set of avatars now.









"Hello. My name is Inigo Montoya. You killed my father; prepare to die!"


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I gotta get me a "Princess Bride" set of avatars now.









"Hello. My name is Inigo Montoya. You killed my father; prepare to die!"










ok off to bed for 4 hours...be back later


----------



## txtmstrjoe

^^









Bwahahahahahaha

I'm gonna get fired from work for excessive ROFLCOPTER riding today!


----------



## boonie2

I GIVE UP ON THESE PLATS







not very stable with DFI are they ? WHERES MY REDLINES................................


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 







I GIVE UP ON THESE PLATS







not very stable with DFI are they ? WHERES MY REDLINES................................









What's wrong with them Platinums, boonie?

Are you sure they're completely healthy?


----------



## nategr8ns

woohoo! The memory is shipped! Should be here next week. Can't wait!
I got rep on ebay for my fast payment on the motherboard, that should be here next week also, but probably a little later.
I CAN'T WAIT!!!
oh also: temps are now low-40s core 0 and high-40s/low-50s core 1. A few Â° less than before... I guess the mx-2 had to set? (thanks again joe







)

Anybody want to buy an AC accelero S1 GFX cooler? keeps my 8800gt SC at mid 30s with two fans in ATI tool








only problem is I want to free up some expansion slots, and this thing is a beast...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
woohoo! The memory is shipped! Should be here next week. Can't wait!
I got rep on ebay for my fast payment on the motherboard, that should be here next week also, but probably a little later.
I CAN'T WAIT!!!
oh also: temps are now low-40s core 0 and high-40s/low-50s core 1. A few Â° less than before... I guess the mx-2 had to set? (thanks again joe







)

Anybody want to buy an AC accelero S1 GFX cooler? keeps my 8800gt SC at mid 30s with two fans in ATI tool








only problem is I want to free up some expansion slots, and this thing is a beast...

Gonna be riding the DFI train soon, huh?


----------



## nategr8ns

chugga chugga!
I'm finally going to be able to go somewhere with my opty log! Hopefully able to break 2.7ghz! Temps are the real limits though...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


chugga chugga!
I'm finally going to be able to go somewhere with my opty log! Hopefully able to break 2.7ghz! Temps are the real limits though...


Refresh my memory, please. What are your temps again?


----------



## nategr8ns

right now, 40ish/50ish (core1/core2). give or take 2-3degrees C
They were at 50/60 though, I think thats just under ORTHOS though

edit: A minute of orthos blend prio=9 yields the same temps.
re-lapping plus MX-2 = success!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Jeez guys, I might just have to switch my normal rig's motherboard out with this Jetway! It is an AMAZING board for being a non-enthusiast board.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hey pio, forgive me if I've asked you this question a million times before, but have you ever tried tweaking the RAM completely on manual?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Hey pioneer, what the full specs for your RAM and BIOS. I'll see if I can't find something on them.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Yes, I've tried to tweak my timings and such...my board just hates me







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Nonsense, pio. Remember: It's only a machine. You are its master; it's not the other way around.









A brief announcement: The battle between thlnk3r's Athlon64 X2 3600+ and txtmstrjoe's is now joined. After a brief hiccup during its shakedown test after migrating from a CM690 case, Darth Bludgeon fired right up after txtmstrjoe rechecked the front panel wiring connections.









Just for the record: txtmstrjoe's entry is a Manchester Athlon64 X2 3600+, *CDBFE 0712WPMW*. Right now I'm not sure what I'll be using to cool this little guy since the Xigmatek S1283 I was planning to use has a horrendous lip on its underside which prevents optimum contact between the heatsink's exposed heatpipes and the IHS; the S1283 needs to be lapped before it can be used.

I've got a few options for cooling, but I'm not sure what I'll be using.

Updates to follow.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Trust me joe...in my situation, the board is my master, lol.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Awww, pio.

I would've thought you were made of sterner stuff...









In all seriousness, though, sorry your RAM wouldn't play nice with your A8N32-SLI.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Awww, pio.

I would've thought you were made of sterner stuff...









In all seriousness, though, sorry your RAM wouldn't play nice with your A8N32-SLI.










The problem is though that NO RAM plays well with this board. I'm getting some TeamX DDR500 for froggy's build (2x1GB), so I'll throw that in my board and see how it goes before giving it to her. Maybe we can both hit DDR500, lol.

And blitz, no worries, we still got room for your kit of XMS







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Maybe the problem's not with the board, but with the CPU..?

When was the last time you tested for stability with it?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Maybe the problem's not with the board, but with the CPU..?

When was the last time you tested for stability with it?


I will be again soon. Gotta retest my 3.0GHz run. For some odd reason its no longer stable, so I'm stuck at 2.8 with 1.25v right now.

But if I think about it, even when I had the Manny X2 in this machine, my RAM would never run at rated speeds. And that was just Corsair ValueCrap.

I'm seriously starting to think its a dead board somehow.

I should just ship this board, RAM, CPU out to you joe, and let you get it to play nicely, then you ship it back for me, lol.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I will be again soon. Gotta retest my 3.0GHz run. For some odd reason its no longer stable, so I'm stuck at 2.8 with 1.25v right now.

But if I think about it, even when I had the Manny X2 in this machine, my RAM would never run at rated speeds. And that was just Corsair ValueCrap.

I'm seriously starting to think its a dead board somehow.

I should just ship this board, RAM, CPU out to you joe, and let you get it to play nicely, then you ship it back for me, lol.


Hehehe

Problems if you do that are 1) It'll take forever before I ship it back








(but it does go back -- better late than never, I hope...), and 2) it won't likely be at a high enough speed for you. LOL

I'm very likely the most conservative OCer in our group here. Well... except for that one time when I went cuckoo bananas and sent 1.7V through an air-cooled chip.

Sounds like thlnk3r has recently caught that particular disease from me, though...


----------



## Iceman0803

Boonie I have the same ram as you on my expert board and I was able to get them stable at 241MHz. IIRC I had to adjust max async latency and DRAM drive strength. Unfortunately I can't tell you what I set them to because I dont have my skt 939 rig up and running yet (damn bills......). Sorry I can't be of any more help.









On a side note has anyone tried Mass Effect yet? I just got it today and it's awesome!! It's a very immersive (spelling?) game. I played for about 6 hours without even realizing it!


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
What's wrong with them Platinums, boonie?

Are you sure they're completely healthy?










Not sure Joe , anything above 2.8 I keep getting the dreaded blue screen memory dump error


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Iceman0803* 
Boonie I have the same ram as you on my expert board and I was able to get them stable at 241MHz. IIRC I had to adjust max async latency and DRAM drive strength. Unfortunately I can't tell you what I set them to because I dont have my skt 939 rig up and running yet (damn bills......). Sorry I can't be of any more help.









On a side note has anyone tried Mass Effect yet? I just got it today and it's awesome!! It's a very immersive (spelling?) game. I played for about 6 hours without even realizing it!









233 is the highest I can run mine so far , granted im not used to this DFI board yet with ALL these settings , but thats the fun of it , LEARNING


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
Not sure Joe , anything above 2.8 I keep getting the dreaded blue screen memory dump error

T1 or T2 timings? and set at what speed?


----------



## nategr8ns

Pio, 1.25V to get to 2.8? Whats the stock speed and votlage on it?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Iceman0803* 
On a side note has anyone tried Mass Effect yet? I just got it today and it's awesome!! It's a very immersive (spelling?) game. I played for about 6 hours without even realizing it!









I really want to try it now...
Notty iceman, you haven't been using firefox! Built in spellchecker FTW!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
Pio, 1.25V to get to 2.8? Whats the stock speed and votlage on it?

I really want to try it now...
Notty iceman, you haven't been using firefox! Built in spellchecker FTW!

I wushed I hda FirFox spellercheck. I'm hoorrible


----------



## nategr8ns

what browser do you use?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
what browser do you use?

FireFox


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
Pio, 1.25V to get to 2.8? Whats the stock speed and votlage on it?........

Stock speed : 1.80GHz
Stock volts : 1.35v

OC Speed : 2.80GHz
OC Volts : 1.25v (load)

To get 3.0GHz it takes roughly 1.39v (load), 1.42v (idle). But I'm pretty sure its a RAM problem (again) that's holding me back from my 3.0GHz again. I REFUSE to run my DDR500 at 166MHz (DDR333) because well....then it'd be pointless for me to have 500Mhz RAM, lol.

EDIT:
BTW, that's for my Opty 165...not the Manny in my sig (currently). I just have that being shown since that's what I'm currently tinkering with.


----------



## nategr8ns

wow, 1.25v is amazing!
I've never tried undervolting, but I don't really have the time to do lots of overclocking runs.


----------



## GuardianOdin

dang it! I the stupid unsubscribe link again.....stupid


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


dang it! I the stupid unsubscribe link again.....stupid


You said it, not me


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Iceman0803*


On a side note has anyone tried Mass Effect yet? I just got it today and it's awesome!! It's a very immersive (spelling?) game. I played for about 6 hours without even realizing it!










Yes, I have it. Yes, it is a decent game, BUT:

I prefer first and third person shooters on computer. However, I bought into Microsoft's lies on launch day that it would be an Xbox 360 exclusive. The game would be fun if not for the crippling controls, so imagine how pissed I was when I saw the game was coming out on computer after all...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


FireFox










Spell-checking is integrated into the shell from version 2.0 and newer. I personally only just recently swung over to Firefox 2.0. Up until I got my new laptop, I was running Firefox 1.0.7 on all my rigs. However, I could not redownload some of my favorite extensions (now called add-ons) because they no longer kept the old versions and the new versions were not compatible. So I got Firefox 2.0.0.14. It is not as stable, but there are some nice features.

Ctrl+alt+T = reopen last closed tab. (Can be used 10 times in succession.)
Integrated spellchecking
Compatible with McAfee Siteadvisor
Compatible with most published add-ons (but do not try "Panic Key" and "FoxyTunes" together; they go together like Pioneer and RAM timings)

And in other news, I just received my new MP3 player: a Creative ZEN 32 GB. I wanted a ZEN: Vision M 60 GB, but it was discontinued. So instead of 60 GB HDD, I have 32 GB SSD.

Oh well.

Anyway, I figured since my present MP3 player is 7 years old, and plays only that, perhaps it is time to replace it...


----------



## Blitz6804

*Rips hair out*

I have been fighting almost two hours trying to make the thing connect to my computer. It would connect, and then disconnect itself within thirty seconds. To reconnect, I would need to uninstall and then reinstall the driver, buying me another thirty seconds.

The cause?

The PS3 controller driver conflicts with the ZEN driver. As soon as I disabled that USB service, the ZEN works fine.

Anyone know how to add a service enable/disable to a batch file so I do not need to manually enable to play with a PS3 controller?


----------



## Blitz6804

Nevermind, I got it. In your batch file (Joy2Key.cmd in my case) you would use:

NET START "service as in Administrative Tools> Services"
or
NET STOP "service as yadda yadda"

to start or stop a service respectively.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Haha, Blitz, you fell victim to one of the classical blunders of all time, the most famous of which is "Never fight a land war on Asia." Only slightly less famous than this is "Never buy Creative Labs products and believe the power of their marketing power when your cash and your computing peace and your very sanity are on the line!"

Hahahahahahahaha


----------



## Blitz6804

I have used Creative products in every single computer I have ever owned since my 80486.

Unless I find something that can match the quality of their products, I foresee keeping them indefinitely.

Like ATI however, my biggest complaint is driver support.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Haha, Blitz, you fell victim to one of the classical blunders of all time, the most famous of which is "Never fight a land war on Asia." Only slightly less famous than this is "Never buy Creative Labs products and believe the power of their marketing power when your cash and your computing peace and your very sanity are on the line!"

Hahahahahahahaha









lol...F'ing classic!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I had to do it, G.O., because he was making fun of my new avatar and my love for "The Princess Bride."

Should I call the Brute Squad..?


----------



## GuardianOdin

I AM the Brute Squad!....would you like a peanut?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I nominate Blitz to be Humperdinck!

"Humperdinck! Humperdinck! Humperdinck! Humperdinck! Humperdinck! Humperdinck!"


----------



## nategr8ns

play nice you guys...

I have a creative Zen Sleek (20gb). It worked very well, and had extra features that nothing else had at the time, and I loved it. The only problem was that after a little while, the power button stopped working well! I had a hard time turning it on and off, and since it used a hard drive (I think...), it couldn't stay in a "sleep" like mode, like the ipods do. I eventually started using my phone as my MP3 player because I only needed so much music at one time, and I didn't like carrying around multiple devices.

I would rather have an mp3 player that has a built in phone (cough iphone cough), because how many features do you need on a cell phone? It's all about the music for me.

edit: my GSkill HZ500s just got in! I need some help though. My motherboard (k8n neo4-f PCB 2.0) has the dimms: green green purple purple. Does that mean channels: 0 0 1 1? Or 0 1 0 1? So do I want to install the two matching sticks in the same color dimm?
I just went on MSI's site to get drivers a little while ago, and realized that the motherboard pictured was not my motherboard








they only list PCB 1.0 and 3.0 there, but on my motherboard is stamped "ver 2.0"
both versions 1 and 3 have the dimms: green purple green purple.
so I think I've been doing something wrong this entire time... I have been puting the matching sticks in the same color slot.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


play nice you guys...

I have a creative Zen Sleek (20gb). It worked very well, and had extra features that nothing else had at the time, and I loved it. The only problem was that after a little while, the power button stopped working well! I had a hard time turning it on and off, and since it used a hard drive (I think...), it couldn't stay in a "sleep" like mode, like the ipods do. I eventually started using my phone as my MP3 player because I only needed so much music at one time, and I didn't like carrying around multiple devices.

I would rather have an mp3 player that has a built in phone (cough iphone cough), because how many features do you need on a cell phone? It's all about the music for me.

edit: my GSkill HZ500s just got in! I need some help though. My motherboard (k8n neo4-f PCB 2.0) has the dimms: green green purple purple. Does that mean channels: 0 0 1 1? Or 0 1 0 1? So do I want to install the two matching sticks in the same color dimm?
I just went on MSI's site to get drivers a little while ago, and realized that the motherboard pictured was not my motherboard








they only list PCB 1.0 and 3.0 there, but on my motherboard is stamped "ver 2.0"
both versions 1 and 3 have the dimms: green purple green purple.
so I think I've been doing something wrong this entire time... I have been puting the matching sticks in the same color slot.


Well, Scorpion is back. But the Dread Pirate Roberts will make a reappearance in the future. How can I deny the awesomeness that is "The Princess Bride"?









nate, I forget: Do you have your motherboard manual? It should say there how to set the RAM up in dual channel.

(I'll put my rant in here against the motherboard manufacturers for not standardizing not just BIOS terminology, but also such a simple thing as RAM channel allocation on the PCB. Pretty senseless, in my opinion, to have a "proprietary" layout when it comes to DIMM slots...)

I guess you can do things old school and swap DIMMs into the right slots until you find the correct combinations.









Update on the X2 3600+ vs X2 3600+ showdown: I'm just about done buttoning up the test rig again. I tried a CoolerMaster GeminII on top of the X2 3600+, but for some reason the temps were high. Would you believe it that, at stock speed (2.0GHz), the cores were touching 48 degs C?







That makes it hotter than my OCed gaming rig @ 2.8GHz.

I am now trying the TR Ultra 120 Extreme on it. I'll have to aim a spot cooler at the MOSFET heatsinks, though...


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


nate, I forget: Do you have your motherboard manual? It should say there how to set the RAM up in dual channel.


No, I don't have the manual







. I got it though, if I only have 2 sticks, I should put them in the same color DIMMs.
What's annoying though is that on auto, my memory goes to 2.5v and 2T. Stock volts are 2.6-2.8. I think Ima try 2.7v and see if I can get 1T. I gotta find my memtest CD...
how do you like the geminii normally? Does it generally cool better than that?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
No, I don't have the manual







. I got it though, if I only have 2 sticks, I should put them in the same color DIMMs.
What's annoying though is that on auto, my memory goes to 2.5v and 2T. Stock volts are 2.6-2.8. I think Ima try 2.7v and see if I can get 1T. I gotta find my memtest CD...
how do you like the geminii normally? Does it generally cool better than that?

Cool beans, nate!

I wonder why the RAM is defaulting to 2.5V; now I'm also wondering about whether or not the SPD assigns default VDIMM to the RAM. I thought SPD only determines the basic timings.









The GeminII is a good cooler for the price. It's just a little goofy to mount, which might account for why the temps were high. I've got one mounted on my AT8 32X, and I remember it took me a while to get a good mount on that. I suppose I could just futz around with it, but I've got an Ultra 120 Extreme not doing anything, so I'm putting that sucker on...









I'm also working with a new TIM, too (OCZ Freeze), so it's also very possible that I've not found the best way to apply it.

Ah, the joys of testing! Laundry be danged! I'm doing laundry tomorrow.


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 

I really want to try it now...
Notty iceman, you haven't been using firefox! Built in spellchecker FTW!

Actually I did but FF doesn't believe that "immersive" (it is spelled correctly. dictionary.com FTW!) is a real word and I was too lazy to check the spelling last night.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Heehee

Just for a larf or two, I'm comparing the full load temps of my gaming rig (see sig) and the testing rig. Using OCCT v.2.0.0 on both, the Opteron 170 @ 2.8GHz is topping out at 49 degs C at the cores, while the X2 3600+ @ 2.0GHz is maxing at 48 degs C. Ambients are at 29.3 degs C.

The X2 3600+, incidentally, has a TR Ultra 120 Extreme sitting on top of it; the Opteron has the "inferior" SI-128SE.







Fans are very similar to each other, as well.

This contest between thlnk3r and I might be over before it's gotten started.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Iceman0803* 
Actually I did but FF doesn't believe that "immersive" (it is spelled correctly. dictionary.com FTW!) is a real word and I was too lazy to check the spelling last night.









I noticed that when I quoted you, the spelling looked right, but it didn't offer the right word in the corrections.

Joe, that's interesting with the temps...
I may have to pick me up one of those 128s


----------



## froggy1986

OMG ya'll are SO lucky pio isn't in here right now.... hes really messed up right now.... so to those of you he's talking to, or has talked to tonight... I AM SRY! I left to go play pool with my mom and a family friend and came home to him being wasted.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Is everything OK now, froggy?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Yes, I'm fine joe







. Just had a wee bit too much Whiskey, that's all







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Good!

I guess you've been picking up habits from Blitzer...
















By the way, @ nate: I heartily recommend the SI-128SE. As you can see, it loses nothing to a lapped Ultra 120 Extreme.







Though, to be fair, it looks to me that the Rocketfish is gimped with really pathetic airflow. The stock fans are poopy; they are unbelievably weak considering the size of the case. I think I'll have increase airflow into the case before any OCing can be done to the proc...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Apologies for the double post, but I thought I'd pop in here before I went back to bed.

It looks like the Manchester vs. Manchester contest between thlnk3r and I has to be suspended until further notice. Either that, or he wins by default.







It seems as if I'd FUBARed my DFI LP UT nF4 Ultra D. I may have accidentally killed the BIOS chip on this thing due to impatience on my part.

The board has to go through a long deep CMOS reset (CMOS jumper set to position 2 & 3, then taking the CMOS battery out for 24 hours, per the advice I'd read about), but even then there are no guarantees that it will work. I doubt if DFI will accept an RMA request for this board as I bought it used.

I'll keep everyone apprised.

If nothing else, take this as a lesson in the importance of patience. I'm usually very patient, but I may have misinterpreted the situation and acted rashly.









Wish me luck.


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Yes, I'm fine joe







. Just had a wee bit too much Whiskey, that's all







.


Ol' Jack can sure sneak up on ya.....


----------



## boonie2

OUCH Joe , hope it works out


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


OUCH Joe , hope it works out


Thanks, brother!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Apologies for the double post, but I thought I'd pop in here before I went back to bed.

It looks like the Manchester vs. Manchester contest between thlnk3r and I has to be suspended until further notice. Either that, or he wins by default.







It seems as if I'd FUBARed my DFI LP UT nF4 Ultra D. I may have accidentally killed the BIOS chip on this thing due to impatience on my part.

The board has to go through a long deep CMOS reset (CMOS jumper set to position 2 & 3, then taking the CMOS battery out for 24 hours, per the advice I'd read about), but even then there are no guarantees that it will work. I doubt if DFI will accept an RMA request for this board as I bought it used.

I'll keep everyone apprised.

If nothing else, take this as a lesson in the importance of patience. I'm usually very patient, but I may have misinterpreted the situation and acted rashly.









Wish me luck.











It will be fine....trust in DFI


----------



## nategr8ns

Froggy, I don't think he posted (at least not here) while he was drunk... At least he never seemed it








G.O., you have the GSkill HZ500mhz right? How many of the timings do you have set to auto? I have to figure out what to set a couple of these too, but two of them in particular because my motherboard doesn't have an auto feature for them (I'll remember which two later)
Trrd
Trc
Trfc
Trwt
Twr
Twtr
Tref

and one other problem, memtest v1.7 says that my memory is at 130mhz, even though I just set it to ddr500 (stock FSB) in bios...
I'm confused. But I am running fine at 1t with 2.7v


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Froggy, I don't think he posted (at least not here) while he was drunk... At least he never seemed it








G.O., you have the GSkill HZ500mhz right? How many of the timings do you have set to auto? I have to figure out what to set a couple of these too, but two of them in particular because my motherboard doesn't have an auto feature for them (I'll remember which two later)
Trrd
Trc
Trfc
Trwt
Twr
Twtr
Tref

and one other problem, memtest v1.7 says that my memory is at 130mhz, even though I just set it to ddr500 (stock FSB) in bios...
I'm confused. But I am running fine at 1t with 2.7v










heading out the door in a few,but I'll post back later


----------



## nategr8ns

alrighty G.O.!

new question from me though:
Is it easy to remove the ramsinks and PWMsinks from an 8800gt? I think they're stuck on using the stuff that comes with the Accelero S1, but I don't remember...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


new question from me though:
Is it easy to remove the ramsinks and PWMsinks from an 8800gt? I think they're stuck on using the stuff that comes with the Accelero S1, but I don't remember...


Do you mean the stock cooler? It's a one-piece design, so the RAM and most everything else are cooled by thermal tape contacting the bottom surface of the cooler. Only the GPU itself has TIM.

I recently changed my 8800GT's stock cooler with the superb Thermaltake DuOrb.









Hope this answers your question, nate (or, hopefully I read your question right







).


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Do you mean the stock cooler? It's a one-piece design, so the RAM and most everything else are cooled by thermal tape contacting the bottom surface of the cooler. Only the GPU itself has TIM.


nope, it's my Accelero S1, and the thermal paste that came with it.

Quote:



new question from me though:
Is it easy to remove the ramsinks and PWMsinks from an 8800gt? I think they're stuck on using the stuff that comes with the Accelero S1, but I don't remember...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Either that, or he wins by default.








It seems as if I'd FUBARed my DFI LP UT nF4 Ultra D. I may have accidentally killed the BIOS chip on this thing due to impatience on my part.

The board has to go through a long deep CMOS reset (CMOS jumper set to position 2 & 3, then taking the CMOS battery out for 24 hours, per the advice I'd read about), but even then there are no guarantees that it will work. I doubt if DFI will accept an RMA request for this board as I bought it used.

Joe, if the BIOS chip is really toast do some searches on google on "hot flashing". In short you can swap the BIOS chip to a working board and reflash. Apparently there is some success to that but it can be dangerous.
Another thing to try, locate the two buttons on the motherboard "power" and "reset". Push them both down for a few seconds then let go of just the "power" and leave your finger on the "reset" for 10-15 seconds. Then release your finger off the "reset" button. This was a common trick to get the machine to POST up if the BIOS became corrupted.

Let us know

Good luck


----------



## boonie2

aaaaahhhhhhhhhhh haaaaaaaaaaaa







worked for me


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Apologies for the double post, but I thought I'd pop in here before I went back to bed.

It looks like the Manchester vs. Manchester contest between thlnk3r and I has to be suspended until further notice. Either that, or he wins by default.







It seems as if I'd FUBARed my DFI LP UT nF4 Ultra D. I may have accidentally killed the BIOS chip on this thing due to impatience on my part.

The board has to go through a long deep CMOS reset (CMOS jumper set to position 2 & 3, then taking the CMOS battery out for 24 hours, per the advice I'd read about), but even then there are no guarantees that it will work. I doubt if DFI will accept an RMA request for this board as I bought it used.

I'll keep everyone apprised.

If nothing else, take this as a lesson in the importance of patience. I'm usually very patient, but I may have misinterpreted the situation and acted rashly.









Wish me luck.










You can contact Tmod. He specializes in DFI BIOS chips. He can send you a new one for $15 or you can send him your old one and he will re-flash it for $10. He's pretty quick about it too. I used him when I borked the BIOS on one of my Jetway boards.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
aaaaahhhhhhhhhhh haaaaaaaaaaaa







worked for me









Boonie, what above worked? Or was it something someone else posted


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Boonie, what above worked? Or was it something someone else posted










yeah think3r , your last post about the power/reset trick .. worked for me







all these setting on this board are awsome , I do get afew lockups and no posts lol trying to stay stable at 3.0


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


yeah think3r , your last post about the power/reset trick .. worked for me







all these setting on this board are awsome , I do get afew lockups and no posts lol trying to stay stable at 3.0


Boonie, I'm glad that helped


----------



## boonie2




----------



## pioneerisloud

Well joe, I hope you get that sorted out.

thlnk3r....ygpm!


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
Froggy, I don't think he posted (at least not here) while he was drunk... At least he never seemed it









Well I was more reffering to the ppl he may have spoke with in IM's.

As for joe, I hope everything works out well for ya with that DFI.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hi guys and gal!

Just wanted to let everyone know that the deep CMOS clear trick worked a treat. I didn't actually leave the battery out for a full twenty four hours (it was out for most of the day today, though), but taking the CMOS battery out and then putting it back in and resetting the CMOS jumper brought the board back to life. In fact, I'm typing this message out to you from that very machine.









Thanks to all who gave me support!







You really are the best!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Hi guys and gal!

Just wanted to let everyone know that the deep CMOS clear trick worked a treat. I didn't actually leave the battery out for a full twenty four hours (it was out for most of the day today, though), but taking the CMOS battery out and then putting it back in and resetting the CMOS jumper brought the board back to life. In fact, I'm typing this message out to you from that very machine.









Thanks to all who gave me support!







You really are the best!









I'm happy you got things sorted out.

NOW ONTO THE X2 3600 CONTEST!!!! LET'S SEE HOW THE 3600 MANNY'S DO!!!


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Hi guys and gal!

Just wanted to let everyone know that the deep CMOS clear trick worked a treat. I didn't actually leave the battery out for a full twenty four hours (it was out for most of the day today, though), but taking the CMOS battery out and then putting it back in and resetting the CMOS jumper brought the board back to life. In fact, I'm typing this message out to you from that very machine.









Thanks to all who gave me support!







You really are the best!









Glad to hear that you got everything worked out brother.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I'm happy you got things sorted out.

NOW ONTO THE X2 3600 CONTEST!!!! LET'S SEE HOW THE 3600 MANNY'S DO!!!











Well, I'll have to work on this case's pathetic air starvation problems first.







Fortunately, I do have a solution lined up, but I haven't put it in place yet. At least I've established a few baselines so that I can compare (at least for my own uses) before and after scenarios.

Patience, pio.







We'll get this X2 3600+ showdown off the ground soon enough.









EDIT: Thanks, Iceman! Your post went in just before mine did!


----------



## boonie2




----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Froggy, I don't think he posted (at least not here) while he was drunk... At least he never seemed it








G.O., you have the GSkill HZ500mhz right? How many of the timings do you have set to auto? I have to figure out what to set a couple of these too, but two of them in particular because my motherboard doesn't have an auto feature for them (I'll remember which two later)
Trrd
Trc
Trfc
Trwt
Twr
Twtr
Tref

and one other problem, memtest v1.7 says that my memory is at 130mhz, even though I just set it to ddr500 (stock FSB) in bios...
I'm confused. But I am running fine at 1t with 2.7v










CPC Enabled
Trcd 4
Tras 8
TRp 4
Trrd 3 
Trc9
Trfc 17
Trwt 3
Twr 3
Twtr 2
Tref 3120

Odd Divisor Correct Disabled
DRAM Bank Interleave Enabled

2.62 Volts

I current have the RAM set at 133, but reads DDR500.2 when the OS is loaded.

The rest is set to auto until the nice cool weather hit again









Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


alrighty G.O.!

new question from me though:
Is it easy to remove the ramsinks and PWMsinks from an 8800gt? I think they're stuck on using the stuff that comes with the Accelero S1, but I don't remember...


The 8800GT I have is a one piece cooler. The memory has thermal tape on it and the core has TIM. The tape can be a bit tricky to get off, but take your time. Little bits of thermal tape like to stick to the chips.


----------



## nategr8ns

^ thanks G.O, just got to school, but in about 8 hours I'll check my settings.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I wonder why the RAM is defaulting to 2.5V; now I'm also wondering about whether or not the SPD assigns default VDIMM to the RAM. I thought SPD only determines the basic timings.










As far as I knew, the SPD can also adjust the voltage. It is also possible that whenever you change RAM, the motherboard automatically defaults to 2.5 V without any input from the RAM. All my RAMs have 2.5 V in the SPD, so I cannot test the theory.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I guess you've been picking up habits from Blitzer...

















Who is that? What habits?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


and one other problem, memtest v1.7 says that my memory is at 130mhz, even though I just set it to ddr500 (stock FSB) in bios...
I'm confused. But I am running fine at 1t with 2.7v










When you say it is set to 250, do you mean that the HTT is set to 250, or that the divider is? If your sig stats are right, and your CPU is running at 2700, your HTT would be 245. Setting the RAM divider to 1:1 would make it DDR 490. (Will touch on again later)

*Reads the manual (Yes, I know that is 3.x, but should not be a huge difference. For a good time, find server 3...)*

According to MSI (see page 2-8), to get dual channel, you must put the memory in slot 1/2 or 3/4 to get dual channel. That is, one "green" and one "purple." Go figure.

As to the memory clock. According to page 3-10, we are looking for Memclock Index Value (MHz). If set to 200, the RAM will run 200:200, or, 1:1 with the CPU. Assuming, as I did before your HTT to be 245, that means that your RAM is running at a 200:100 divider, or, 2:1. Because of the 11x multiplier on your processor, 245 HTT does not become 123 FSB. Instead, it looks like it is CPU/22, or 2700/20 = 135. Without your exact HTT though, I could not tell you. *Chuckles*


----------



## nategr8ns

actually that was when my CPU was stock (just testing the memory with memtest). I set the RAM to "250" meaning at 200FSB the memory would be 250. I think my motherboard is probably the only one in the world that doesn't tell me the actual divider it's running at -.-


----------



## prosser13

My current Gigabyte is the only board I've had which does


----------



## Blitz6804

My gigabyte has a divider and also shows you the current (in-BIOS) setting as per that divider. When you get to Windows, the FSB is different because of the soft math that the proc does given my 11x multiplier.

I did not see an option to make your divider be 250...

Good going Microstar...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Ah, the exposure of the stupidity of non-standardized BIOS terminology...


----------



## nategr8ns

basically it sets the memory to "ddr(divider times 2)" so in my case, when I boot, it says "2gb of ddr500"
no matter what my FSB is, it says the memory is whatever my divider is.

thank god that DFI is going to be here soon... and I may be watercooling soon (by way of cheapo block, fish tank pump, and bong cooler) depending on my free time, funds, and bedroom ventilation (bong causes high humidity).


----------



## thlnk3r

Little off topic here. Since the theme here is sort of Mortal Kombat'ish I thought I'd share this youtube video


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


The 8800GT I have is a one piece cooler. The memory has thermal tape on it and the core has TIM. The tape can be a bit tricky to get off, but take your time. Little bits of thermal tape like to stick to the chips.


WHY DOES NOBODY LISTEN! I KEEP SAYING I HAVE AN ACCELERO ON THERE WITH EXTRA MEMORY AND PWM SINKS!








so the TIM or thermal adhesive or WHATEVER that comes with the accelero is what I have on there, not the crap thermal tape (although I think I still have that on the stock cooler, in the box







)

Should I just be able to (carefully) pry the memsinks off? I'm thinking of selling my accelero, but I don't want to have somebody pay only for me to tell them that I can't get the memsinks off -.-

edit: sorry thinker, thanks for the vid. I <3 gory finishing movies (didn't watch the whole thing, did they do the baby and animal ones?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Should I just be able to (carefully) pry the memsinks off?


Nate, if the heatsinks on your memory are attached via adhesive tape then yes they should be fairly simple to pull off. Try twisting them a back and forth 90 degrees and pull at the same time.

What was your issues to begin with?

Good luck


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


WHY DOES NOBODY LISTEN! I KEEP SAYING I HAVE AN ACCELERO ON THERE WITH EXTRA MEMORY AND PWM SINKS!








so the TIM or thermal adhesive or WHATEVER that comes with the accelero is what I have on there, not the crap thermal tape (although I think I still have that on the stock cooler, in the box







)

Should I just be able to (carefully) pry the memsinks off? I'm thinking of selling my accelero, but I don't want to have somebody pay only for me to tell them that I can't get the memsinks off -.-

edit: sorry thinker, thanks for the vid. I <3 gory finishing movies (didn't watch the whole thing, did they do the baby and animal ones?


calm down. I have the XFX 8800GT. I can only tell you what I have. If it's thermal tape, twist back and forth till it comes off. Other than I couldn't tell ya.


----------



## nategr8ns

I'm not very mad, but I guess caps kind of come across as it. I've had like 4 people respond to my post without reading it at all.
Thinker, I don't think it's tape, but it may be.

I'm asking because with the DFI coming in, I'm only going to have 1 pci-e 1x slot available (this cooler + 2 120mm fans is beastly). Currently I'm using one pci slot, so I'm going to have to get a new cooler or not use my lan card. I figure I can sell the cooler without the ram sinks, but I thought it would be better if I could get them off and include them with the accelero.


----------



## boonie2

seems that 2.9 is all I can do stable with these OCZs

290x10 5/6-166

dram freq-241.7 mhz / effective clock {everest} 483mhz
fsb dram-cpu12
timmings 3-4-4-10 @ 2t
tras-10
trc-15

found a really helpful guide on VR-ZONE for the DFI ultra Ds , in depth explaination for all the setting in bois and theyre effects on O/Clocking and bandwidth.....







wheres my DDR500s


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
I'm not very mad, but I guess caps kind of come across as it. I've had like 4 people respond to my post without reading it at all.
Thinker, I don't think it's tape, but it may be.

I'm asking because with the DFI coming in, I'm only going to have 1 pci-e 1x slot available (this cooler + 2 120mm fans is beastly). Currently I'm using one pci slot, so I'm going to have to get a new cooler or not use my lan card. I figure I can sell the cooler without the ram sinks, but I thought it would be better if I could get them off and include them with the accelero.

Unless you used some kind of strong thermal adhesive (which tends to be a permanent way of attaching heatsinks and the like) on the VRAM, it's possible that the RAMsinks will come off with some gentle twisting and pulling. As always, though, proceed carefully and slowly.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
seems that 2.9 is all I can do stable with these OCZs

290x10 5/6-166

dram freq-241.7 mhz / effective clock {everest} 483mhz
fsb dram-cpu12
timmings 3-4-4-10 @ 2t
tras-10
trc-15

found a really helpful guide on VR-ZONE for the DFI ultra Ds , in depth explaination for all the setting in bois and theyre effects on O/Clocking and bandwidth.....







wheres my DDR500s









boonie, if you're still just trying to find your CPU's max, perhaps you can try to use a bigger RAM divider (to slow it down further).

Of course, you may be at the stage of final OC consolidation (CPU + RAM together), in which case your RAM indeed is holding you back.

Good luck!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
I'm asking because with the DFI coming in, I'm only going to have 1 pci-e 1x slot available (this cooler + 2 120mm fans is beastly). Currently I'm using one pci slot, so I'm going to have to get a new cooler or not use my lan card. I figure I can sell the cooler without the ram sinks, but I thought it would be better if I could get them off and include them with the accelero.

Nate, sorry I'm a little confused. So your having troubles finding room for your components on your new DFI board? Your video card should go in the top PCI-E slot(PCIE1). That slot I believe runs at 16x bandwidth as oppose to the second slot (PCIE4) which runs at 2x bandwidth. So you should have plenty of room. You can also use the onboard LAN. Sorry if I'm getting confused with a totally different issue.

Good luck


----------



## boonie2

Just trying to find that "happy spot" Joe where I can run prime all night , occt , no glitches , blue screens , memory dumps , hang-ups , freezes , just a nice quick , smooth setting


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


found a really helpful guide on VR-ZONE for the DFI ultra Ds , in depth explaination for all the setting in bois and theyre effects on O/Clocking and bandwidth.....







wheres my DDR500s










I'll be sure to check it out later









Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Unless you used some kind of strong thermal adhesive (which tends to be a permanent way of attaching heatsinks and the like) on the VRAM, it's possible that the RAMsinks will come off with some gentle twisting and pulling. As always, though, proceed carefully and slowly.










ok thanks









Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Nate, sorry I'm a little confused. So your having troubles finding room for your components on your new DFI board? Your video card should go in the top PCI-E slot(PCIE1). That slot I believe runs at 16x bandwidth as oppose to the second slot (PCIE4) which runs at 2x bandwidth. So you should have plenty of room. You can also use the onboard LAN. Sorry if I'm getting confused with a totally different issue.

Good luck


well it's not quite here yet, but from pictures I can tell that its not going to fit my stuffz. I'll stick with onboard lan for now... but I would like to free up some pci slots. Thanks, and sorry for not being clearer


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


Just trying to find that "happy spot" Joe where I can run prime all night , occt , no glitches , blue screens , memory dumps , hang-ups , freezes , just a nice quick , smooth setting


Ah, the Holy Grail.









Good luck in your quest! May the fates find you worthy.


----------



## nategr8ns

NI!

just kidding








Oh yeah boonie I forgot before, in the world of overclocking, there is no nice, quick, smooth setting


----------



## boonie2

hahahaha yeah I noticed that too







, but 2.8 seems to work out pretty good for this ram and board ..... orthos stable for almost 3 hours now


----------



## Blitz6804

I might finally be able to rival Scorps...

*Wants to get back to Amherst pronto*

Today, on Long Island, the high temperature was 38Âº C (100.4Âº F) with a heat index of 42Âº C (109.4Âº F). Even with the A/C full out, the room where my rig is hooked up is up to 24Âº C (75.2Âº F). I know Scorps lacks that luxury, but it is proof again that wall and window mounted air conditioning is inferior to central air.

(For the record, my allocated room does not have air conditioning in it, and must rely on the other three bedrooms upstairs. Accordingly, the temp is up to 29Âº C (84.2Âº F), meaning I might just crash on the couch tonight.)

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
Oh yeah boonie I forgot before, in the world of overclocking, there is no nice, quick, smooth setting









Sure there is: stock clock. A stock clock is an overclock at t=0. All PCs will be ran at least once at stock before they are overclocked.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Sub-Zero, Scorpion feels you on that.

Even hellions like me have a limit as to how hot is too hot.

Try to do all you can to keep cool. My migraine might actually be due to the temps from yesterday. Or it could be due to second-hand smoke from yesterday/last night, when my sister and I watched a sumo wrestling tournament at the Los Angeles Memorial Sports Arena (rat hole that it is compared to even the old Great Western Forum, former home of the L.A. Lakers).

Anyway, good health to you all!


----------



## vwgti

Well guys Im looking into a peltier, see if I cant get some crazy ocs. Asking advice in the necessary forum, will report back.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vwgti*


Well guys Im looking into a peltier, see if I cant get some crazy ocs. Asking advice in the necessary forum, will report back.


I wish I had some good advise for you, but I'm in the same boat. I'd love to be able to stay around 20c on load.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vwgti* 
Well guys Im looking into a peltier

Vwgti, that definitely sounds exciting!!! I can't wait for the results


----------



## GuardianOdin

ah home sweet home....I tell ya guys and lady. I think I'll stick to our own little corner of OCN for a while. Seems like a lot of irritating "I'm always right" new folks have joined over the last few months. It's taking the fun out of being here. Snuggles the 939 thread.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Seems like a lot of irritating "I'm always right" new folks have joined over the last few months. It's taking the fun out of being here.

Guardian, a lot of them are young kids. Just be polite and professional...I always try and show documentation. That's a plus


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Guardian, a lot of them are young kids. Just be polite and professional...I always try and show documentation. That's a plus









yeah I know. I'm having some personal problems right now and I come here to relax. It's just irritating at times and I needs to vent. sad face--->
















EDIT: I would like to add that young and older alike in this thread,everyone seems very cool 100% of the time.


----------



## nategr8ns

yeah, this is one of the only good places left... It's weird. The Internet just breeds some annoying people I guess...
I'm tempted to buy some sort of SNES controller for my PC... Do they make SNES -> USB adapters?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
I'm tempted to buy some sort of SNES controller for my PC... Do they make SNES -> USB adapters?









Nate, I purchased a similar controller from logitech. It actually has the same button configuration as a Playstation 2 controller.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
yeah, this is one of the only good places left... It's weird. The Internet just breeds some annoying people I guess...
I'm tempted to buy some sort of SNES controller for my PC... Do they make SNES -> USB adapters?









actually I believe they do.Hmm...have to go check now

EDIT: SNES Adapter and PC RetroBit Super Nintendo USB SNES Controller for Emulators & Classic Games


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Think happy thoughts, G.O.! I heard someone finally fulfilled a promise to you, so that's something worth smiling about, no?

I wonder if we can create a Club S939 Comic Book..?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Think happy thoughts, G.O.! I heard someone finally fulfilled a promise to you, so that's something worth smiling about, no?

I wonder if we can create a Club S939 Comic Book..?









lol,very much! I dub thine Mighty Joe!

I actually have been pondering a OCN web comic for a while now. But I need to find some free time to sketch out some characters of familiar names on the site. Going to be hard fitting that in with work and trying to land a gig with DC Comics or Marvel.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Well, that's definitely a project done purely for leisure.









A suggestion for thlnk3r's comic book counterpart:









That should be his logo.


----------



## thlnk3r

Joe, thank you


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Well, that's definitely a project done purely for leisure.









A suggestion for thlnk3r's comic book counterpart:









That should be his logo.



















Thats pretty dang close to what I was thinking!<---get it?...thinking


----------



## nategr8ns

hehe I get it, thinking!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Yo thlnk3rb377, why _Le Penseur_ isn't your avatar, I don't know.


----------



## nategr8ns

I assume that means "the thinker" i.e. the statue in the picture a few posts up?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


hehe I get it, thinking!


hey Nate, did you see those links I posted? Seems like the best place for those controllers. They look well built.


----------



## thlnk3r

Hey guys, where did you get your aliases from? Or should I say how did you come up with them?

I got mine from an X-Files episode way back in 93:

Quote:



Season 2, Episode 25: Anasazi
Original Air Date: 19 May 1995
A man known as "The Thinker" has hacked into the U.S. Department of Defense mainframe and uncovered 50-years-worth of proof that the Gov't has been dealing with aliens. Mulder and Scully race against time to distinguish truth from lies, uncover the secrets, and survive them.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Final Fantasy XII....Summoning Guardian Odin. I thought he looked badass back then.


----------



## nategr8ns

my name, nate the great








I know theres a few race gamers here. I'm having problems with GRID. When I try to start Grid World, I am able to finish the first race (where you drive the Dodge Viper) and then it shows a few neat camera angles of a garage, then three race options show up on the screen. It says I need $80,000 or something, and it says that I have $0. It won't let me start a race or back out of that screen, so I have to ALT+F4 out.
Anybody have any ideas on how to fix this?


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
I assume that means "the thinker" i.e. the statue in the picture a few posts up?

that IS "THE THINKER"









ODIN ? chin up bro , life is good , how does that saying go again ... "bad things only make us stronger" ? I know its close to that lol
no matter how bad my day gets this place always makes me smile









and.....BOONIE2 is a take off from my fathers old nickname in VIETNAM , "REST-IN-PEACE DAD"


----------



## nategr8ns

boonie, I just bumped your sale threads. Didn't you sell some of that stuff on ebay though?


----------



## boonie2

NO I never got around to listing it on Ebay , I was going to on the 4th but never did


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Hey guys, where did you get your aliases from? Or should I say how did you come up with them?

I got mine from an X-Files episode way back in 93:


"txtmstrjoe" has been my handle since, I don't know, 1998 or 1999? It's really just hubris on my part, as it's supposed to say "text master joe." I am a master of nothing, though.









A dear friend not so long ago said that his spellchecker corrected my handle to "toast mistress"...


----------



## nategr8ns

that better be your new saying under your name (whats that called again?)
Toast Mistress Joe (guardian odin, you getting any ideas for that comic?







)


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
"txtmstrjoe" has been my handle since, I don't know, 1998 or 1999? It's really just hubris on my part, as it's supposed to say "text master joe." I am a master of nothing, though.









A dear friend not so long ago said that his spellchecker corrected my handle to "toast mistress"...









Would that be another brother of The Order?









As far as my name goes I've been using "Iceman" since about the mid 90's. However, over the years the name has gotten popular with more and more people so I decided to add my b-day to the end 0803 (Aug. 3rd) to distinguish myself. Although I still use just Iceman whenever possible.


----------



## Pap3r

I used PaperPlunger for a long time... I've never found anyone else using it... ever! I think that's pretty cool. I'm fond of alliteration, and I also use TitaniumToilet, which I had my friend use on this forum. He only posted once, though... Anyway, PaperPlunger morphed to Pap3rPlunger, then to Pap3r, then to Pap3r.linux in games. Funny how things change.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Iceman0803* 
Would that be another brother of The Order?









Ah, yes. I'm sure you know who he is.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Iceman0803* 
As far as my name goes I've been using "Iceman" since about the mid 90's. However, over the years the name has gotten popular with more and more people so I decided to add my b-day to the end 0803 (Aug. 3rd) to distinguish myself. Although I still use just Iceman whenever possible.









Sweet. I thought it was enough that you were just so cool, Iceman!
















Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pap3r* 
I used PaperPlunger for a long time... I've never found anyone else using it... ever! I think that's pretty cool. I'm fond of alliteration, and I also use TitaniumToilet, which I had my friend use on this forum. He only posted once, though... Anyway, PaperPlunger morphed to Pap3rPlunger, then to Pap3r, then to Pap3r.linux in games. Funny how things change.

Hehe, sweet, Pap3r! Sounds like Pap3r and a txtmstr ought to be perfect partners in perpetrating crime!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
that IS "THE THINKER"









ODIN ? chin up bro , life is good , how does that saying go again ... "bad things only make us stronger" ? I know its close to that lol
no matter how bad my day gets this place always makes me smile









and.....BOONIE2 is a take off from my fathers old nickname in VIETNAM , "REST-IN-PEACE DAD"

Thanks Boonie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
that better be your new saying under your name (whats that called again?)
Toast Mistress Joe (guardian odin, you getting any ideas for that comic?







)

I have idea's,but it all on the back burner until I get time.


----------



## iandroo888

w00t new avatar made by DeX! yeaah !

uhh so what happened in here.. lol.. hecka lost now


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Ah, yes. I'm sure you know who he is.










Aye, I do sir!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Sweet. I thought it was enough that you were just so cool, Iceman!

















Well yeah there's that too!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well I for one remember who spell checked txtmstrjoe into toast mistress. Believe me...I haven't forgotten







!!!!!

And my handle (pioneerisloud), originally started with me when I first stole online access from my parents (bad me, yes I know). They used AOL dial up...and for the fun of it, I used it one night, downloaded NetZero (100% free at the time), and developed my name "pioneerisloud" so as they wouldn't know it was me on the internet. And well...I now own that handle for EVERYTHING I use online.

I originally thought of it because I was looking around my bedroom for something sneaky I could use as a handle. Couldn't think of ANYTHING off the top of my head. Then I saw my good OLD SCHOOL Pioneer reciever, and dual 15" OLD SCHOOL Pioneer home speakers. I remembered the good old times when they were at work, and I had just gotten home....and I just ROCKED OUT royally and ticked all the neighbors off. Then it hit me.....Pioneer stereo equipment is quite loud. Hmmm.....Pioneer is loud. pioneerisloud!!!!!!!

Then my ex best friend (not ex at the time), stole my AIM handle of pioneerisloud. So I had to change it to pioneerisloudtoo, and added my old handle on there as a top buddy. When he stopped showing up online with it (he got bored of spamming my friends), I sent away for a password reset, and BOOM! I got it back! So now I also own pioneerisloudtoo on AIM. But other than that, its ALWAYS pioneerisloud....wherever I go.

So yeah...that's where my handle came from







.

*EDIT:*
Thinking back on it...I've owned that handle for 12 years now. I was 10 when I first had Netzero online access.


----------



## GuardianOdin

My Crysis Bench results. High settings


----------



## thlnk3r

Guardian, 40FPS average with settings on high is not bad at all. Nicely done


----------



## boonie2

nice goin "G.O"







update: just got my memory when i got in from work .yea







2-1gb OCZ PC4000 PREMIUM / 2-1GB CORSAIR XMS PLATINUM PC4000 ... going to see which set preforms better , really a no brainer tho I guess ... Gave up on the Redlines from sublimO here at OCN {thats a whole other story} thanks to DUKE and COZART














....


----------



## GuardianOdin

Thanks guys, I don't why I haven't ran this bench before. I'm not sure about more high end rigs, but with my 939 I can play the game on high. There are some spots that are a little glitchy with FPS but not really annoying.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Thanks guys, I don't why I haven't ran this bench before. I'm not sure about more high end rigs, but with my 939 I can play the game on high. There are some spots that are a little glitchy with FPS but not really annoying.


Guardian, is that benchmarking app a stand-alone piece of software that can downloaded or does it only come with the game?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Guardian, is that benchmarking app a stand-alone piece of software that can downloaded or does it only come with the game?


It did not come with the game I got. I downloaded it Here Now I have to buy my own copy of the game or maybe my buddy will just give me this one


----------



## nategr8ns

nice job G.O.! You like captain america? Or is that one for the Avengers?








boonie, can't wait to hear about the memory! Is there any chance that you'll be running all four sticks? It seems a shame to have memory sitting around


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


nice job G.O.! You like captain america? Or is that one for the Avengers?








boonie, can't wait to hear about the memory! Is there any chance that you'll be running all four sticks? It seems a shame to have memory sitting around










That image is from the Joe Mad run on Avengers, BUT Captain America FTW!!!!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
It did not come with the game I got. I downloaded it Here Now I have to buy my own copy of the game or maybe my buddy will just give me this one









Guardian, thank you for sharing that link.

I just had a look at your deviant art page...I like your drawings









It's funny you mentioned about doing some drawings for your own comic. One of my brothers just recently picked up a tablet and has been doing his own drawings as well. Apparently he wants to start a comic strip on blogspot. I have to give you guys credit for your artistic abilities....great skill is needed


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
nice job G.O.! You like captain america? Or is that one for the Avengers?








boonie, can't wait to hear about the memory! Is there any chance that you'll be running all four sticks? It seems a shame to have memory sitting around









No wont be running all 4 , my vistas only 32 bit so .... got great deals on both sets couldnt pass them by you know? might try running these Corsairs and 2-512 Adata ddr500 for 3gb and see how that goes but ill lose my 1T


----------



## nategr8ns

I don't personally think it's worth losing 1T, but try it and compare the two situations


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Holy cow.

Been so busy at work today, this is the first real chance I've had to pop my head in here.

I've been going through some interesting times of late with my systems. The gaming rig has just got two new HDDs (I've replaced the Western Digitals with two new Seagates) because my primary HDD is showing some signs of dying a slow death. A quick Clone job, and everything's been moved to the two new Seagates.

Well, the primary Seagate (the one with the OS) has been throwing up Event ID 51s at me. Numerous runs of Diskeeper repair routines and chkdsk haven't solved the problem, and HDD Inspector says that the SMART system is reporting the drive as completely healthy. I'm considering reformatting the drives and redoing the drive cloning.

Then there's the DFI testing rig. I have to somehow increase the case's air intake, and I've got just the solution for it, too. But with the gaming rig's problems, well, that is now on the back burner.

Hope your kids are healthy and hale!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Well, the primary Seagate (the one with the OS) has been throwing up Event ID 51s at me. Numerous runs of Diskeeper repair routines and chkdsk haven't solved the problem, and HDD Inspector says that the SMART system is reporting the drive as completely healthy. I'm considering reformatting the drives and redoing the drive cloning.


Joe, run that CD I gave you (option 4) and run the full surface scan. There could be a bad sector.

Good luck


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Holy cow.

Been so busy at work today, this is the first real chance I've had to pop my head in here.

I've been going through some interesting times of late with my systems. The gaming rig has just got two new HDDs (I've replaced the Western Digitals with two new Seagates) because my primary HDD is showing some signs of dying a slow death. A quick Clone job, and everything's been moved to the two new Seagates.

Well, the primary Seagate (the one with the OS) has been throwing up Event ID 51s at me. Numerous runs of Diskeeper repair routines and chkdsk haven't solved the problem, and HDD Inspector says that the SMART system is reporting the drive as completely healthy. I'm considering reformatting the drives and redoing the drive cloning.

Then there's the DFI testing rig. I have to somehow increase the case's air intake, and I've got just the solution for it, too. But with the gaming rig's problems, well, that is now on the back burner.

Hope your kids are healthy and hale!









What program did you use for drive cloning?? I'm wondering because I think my Western Digital is starting to die as well. I would rather not do a complete reinstall when I get the new drive.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, run that CD I gave you (option 4) and run the full surface scan. There could be a bad sector.

Good luck









Oui, Monsieur Le Penseur.

I've spent a good part of my day researching the problem, and I'll be trying out a few possible solutions, starting from the simplest likely fix to the most complex. I'll run the surface scan, though, and see what that turns up.

Thanks!









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Iceman0803* 
What program did you use for drive cloning?? I'm wondering because I think my Western Digital is starting to die as well. I would rather not do a complete reinstall when I get the new drive.

I used Acronis True Image 11. Not free, but it works superbly.


----------



## alexgheseger

*cough* Max blast *cough*

But seriously, if you have a maxtor or seagate drive, this utility will clone drives wonderfully. And it's free. It's actually Acronis true image with a coupla features taken out.


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Oui, Monsieur Le Penseur.

I used Acronis True Image 11. Not free, but it works superbly.










Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexgheseger* 
*cough* Max blast *cough*

But seriously, if you have a maxtor or seagate drive, this utility will clone drives wonderfully. And it's free. It's actually Acronis true image with a coupla features taken out.

Thx guys I'll check 'em both out.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexgheseger* 
*cough* Max blast *cough*

But seriously, if you have a maxtor or seagate drive, this utility will clone drives wonderfully. And it's free. It's actually Acronis true image with a coupla features taken out.

D'oheth!







Where were you, alex, when I shelled out the koin for Acronis?









Great suggestion, though. Thanks for sharing!


----------



## alexgheseger

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
D'oheth!







Where were you, alex, when I shelled out the koin for Acronis?









Great suggestion, though. Thanks for sharing!









sorry







. Acronis is still worth it though, since maxblast will only work if you have a seagate or maxtor drive (doesn't matter which era/interface etc) installed.


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexgheseger* 
sorry







. Acronis is still worth it though, since maxblast will only work if you have a seagate or maxtor drive (doesn't matter which era/interface etc) installed.

May not work for me then because my current drive is WD.







I do appreciate the suggestion though. I definitely keep it in mind for future reference.


----------



## froggy1986

WOW I have sure missed alot while being sick these last few days.

I just kinda glanced over all that I missed. So if I don't say something about a great accomplishment....sry.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
actually I believe they do.Hmm...have to go check now

EDIT: SNES Adapter and PC RetroBit Super Nintendo USB SNES Controller for Emulators & Classic Games

Great find....didn't know they made those.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
I actually have been pondering a OCN web comic for a while now. But I need to find some free time to sketch out some characters of familiar names on the site. Going to be hard fitting that in with work and trying to land a gig with DC Comics or Marvel.

Good Luck with all of that GO. Hope all goes well

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Hey guys, where did you get your aliases from? Or should I say how did you come up with them?

I got mine from an X-Files episode way back in 93:

Well for here and a few other places, I came up with froggy1986 because I love frogs, as you could see by the pic of my desk in the managment contest we had earlier, combined with the year I was born.
I also used to use blondieflurt05, because I am a bit of a flirt at times, not since I have been with pio(no worries hunny) and I am a blonde who was supposed to graduate in 2005.
I also have tempblondie1 on aol and pogo as a temporary account I made as a blond...lol...all my "aliases" are pretty simple.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
A dear friend not so long ago said that his spellchecker corrected my handle to "toast mistress"...









HAHAHAHA!!!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
It did not come with the game I got. I downloaded it Here Now I have to buy my own copy of the game or maybe my buddy will just give me this one









OOO I may need to see what I score now... As I was playing, I began on all high, and as I went through the game I had to keep setting everything down. By the time I finished the game, I was all low settings, and still skipping. Anyone ever heard of that problem on Crysis? BTW that was when I was using my SLI 8600's.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
No wont be running all 4 , my vistas only 32 bit so .... got great deals on both sets couldnt pass them by you know? might try running these Corsairs and 2-512 Adata ddr500 for 3gb and see how that goes but ill lose my 1T

Best of luck with that...keep us posted.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I've been going through some interesting times of late with my systems. The gaming rig has just got two new HDDs (I've replaced the Western Digitals with two new Seagates) because my primary HDD is showing some signs of dying a slow death. A quick Clone job, and everything's been moved to the two new Seagates.

Well, the primary Seagate (the one with the OS) has been throwing up Event ID 51s at me. Numerous runs of Diskeeper repair routines and chkdsk haven't solved the problem, and HDD Inspector says that the SMART system is reporting the drive as completely healthy. I'm considering reformatting the drives and redoing the drive cloning.

Then there's the DFI testing rig. I have to somehow increase the case's air intake, and I've got just the solution for it, too. But with the gaming rig's problems, well, that is now on the back burner.

Hope your kids are healthy and hale!









I sure hope all that works out and ya get it figured out man...best of luck to ya.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Just wanted to let everyone know that the deep CMOS clear trick worked a treat.









Great







Glad to hear ya got that part figured out and fixed.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
I'm asking because with the DFI coming in, I'm only going to have 1 pci-e 1x slot available (this cooler + 2 120mm fans is beastly). Currently I'm using one pci slot, so I'm going to have to get a new cooler or not use my lan card. I figure I can sell the cooler without the ram sinks, but I thought it would be better if I could get them off and include them with the accelero.

Good luck nate

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
EDIT: I would like to add that young and older alike in this thread,everyone seems very cool 100% of the time.

Agreed!

Oh yeah and sry that I kinda messed up the order, hope its not too confusing...still not feeling too well, I just thought I would catch up a little so I didn't fall any farther outta the loop.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well jeez, I guess I'm just being ignored now. I see how it is







. Nobody even took a second glance at my handle and how it came to be. And it was even a full story and everything. I worked hard on that post







.

I'm gonna go play me some racing now with my Logitech Momo Racing Wheel (best $75 I've EVER spent on hardware!). "Race Driver: GRID" sounds like a fun game to play for a bit







. If any of you "Race07" fans decide you're up for a race, let me know via Xfire or other IM client. Although I can promise I'll hear the Xfire when in game...I may not with other IM's.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Iceman0803*


May not work for me then because my current drive is WD.







I do appreciate the suggestion though. I definitely keep it in mind for future reference.


Iceman, if you have a WD drive then you can download the Western Digital Lifeguard tools. The utility can be downloaded and burnt to a CD (.iso). Boot to the CD and you'll have options to image a drive ect. Any drive model is fine just as long as you grab "Data Lifeguard Tools 11.2 for DOS (CD)".

Just a reminder guys, for WD drives if your within the 3 year warranty and your drive starts to "act funny" or has bad sectors you can return it and get a replacement. The replacement drives are "reconditioned".

Good luck folks


----------



## GuardianOdin

Yay Joe! the vidcard and PSU work well together! A little Socket 754 love


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Iceman, if you have a WD drive then you can download the Western Digital Lifeguard tools. The utility can be downloaded and burnt to a CD (.iso). Boot to the CD and you'll have options to image a drive ect. Any drive model is fine just as long as you grab "Data Lifeguard Tools 11.2 for DOS (CD)".

Just a reminder guys, for WD drives if your within the 3 year warranty and your drive starts to "act funny" or has bad sectors you can return it and get a replacement. The replacement drives are "reconditioned".

Good luck folks









Thx for the info! That never would've occurred to me!







I guess that's why you're the thlnk3r


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Well jeez, I guess I'm just being ignored now. I see how it is







. Nobody even took a second glance at my handle and how it came to be. And it was even a full story and everything. I worked hard on that post







.

I'm gonna go play me some racing now with my Logitech Momo Racing Wheel (best $75 I've EVER spent on hardware!). "Race Driver: GRID" sounds like a fun game to play for a bit







. If any of you "Race07" fans decide you're up for a race, let me know via Xfire or other IM client. Although I can promise I'll hear the Xfire when in game...I may not with other IM's.

don't worry pio, I read your post! I have the logitech NASCAR wheel which cost like $30. It's much better than a keyboard








I'm tempted to buy a better one, but I don't know...

I think my GRID post was overlooked also, but I'm too lazy to find it and quote it







. I'm stuck right after the first race, when you have to start earning money for a car or something, and it won't let me choose a race!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
don't worry pio, I read your post! I have the logitech NASCAR wheel which cost like $30. It's much better than a keyboard








I'm tempted to buy a better one, but I don't know...

I think my GRID post was overlooked also, but I'm too lazy to find it and quote it







. I'm stuck right after the first race, when you have to start earning money for a car or something, and it won't let me choose a race!

I don't really know for sure there nate







. I've only been tinkering around with "Race Days" so I can start to get the feel for the cars. I'll probably try out career mode in a day or two, and I'll let you know if I'm able to pass that part.

*Awesomeness with GRID Game!!!*
Seriously...racing fans (especially those with wheels)...NEED to get GRID!! It has Drift, open wheeled cars, muscle cars, AND DEMOLITION DERBY!!!! I just did a 50 lap demolition dirby race on a dual figure 8 track with JUMPS! My god that was the FUNNEST time racing single player I've had since NFSU2! And actually, I think this was more fun since I have a wheel. The physics are awesome (pretty darn realistic for being an arcade racer), the graphics are THE BEST for a racing game I've seen yet other than DiRT. Racing fans NEED to get this game







.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I don't really know for sure there nate







. I've only been tinkering around with "Race Days" so I can start to get the feel for the cars. I'll probably try out career mode in a day or two, and I'll let you know if I'm able to pass that part.

*Awesomeness with GRID Game!!!*
Seriously...racing fans (especially those with wheels)...NEED to get GRID!! It has Drift, open wheeled cars, muscle cars, AND DEMOLITION DERBY!!!! I just did a 50 lap demolition dirby race on a dual figure 8 track with JUMPS! My god that was the FUNNEST time racing single player I've had since NFSU2! And actually, I think this was more fun since I have a wheel. The physics are awesome (pretty darn realistic for being an arcade racer), the graphics are THE BEST for a racing game I've seen yet other than DiRT. Racing fans NEED to get this game







.










FUNNEST?







hey pio , wheres the best place to but a good wheel ?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I'll have to try out this Race Driver: GRID. I must admit that it is certainly one of the prettiest PC racing games I've seen.

boonie, I'll have to keep my eyes open for a good racing wheel for you.

If you have a $100.00 budget, though, my best recommendation is the Logitech Momo. pio and I both have it. Mine is a couple of years old now, and it's still excellent.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I don't really know for sure there nate







. I've only been tinkering around with "Race Days" so I can start to get the feel for the cars. I'll probably try out career mode in a day or two, and I'll let you know if I'm able to pass that part.


well when you do, just tell me what you did to get past it. If it lets you select a race, I know its probably a bad install and I can reinstall it









edit: forgot to mention that my motherboard arrived today! I'll try to get some pictures of it before its installed.
terrible packaging, and lots of assorting accessories that have nothing to do with the motherboard (some case components, a zalman fanmate controller







)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
well when you do, just tell me what you did to get past it. If it lets you select a race, I know its probably a bad install and I can reinstall it









edit: forgot to mention that my motherboard arrived today! I'll try to get some pictures of it before its installed.
terrible packaging, and lots of assorting accessories that have nothing to do with the motherboard (some case components, a zalman fanmate controller







)

Nate, have you done a search for any patches that might of come out for the game lately? Are other users experiencing the same problems? There's gotta be a forum somewhere about the game


----------



## nategr8ns

as of now, I have not seen one other report of this problem. Its a pretty new game though.

Uploading pictures of motherboard now







. Should I try a dry boot with no components in it and see what happens?


----------



## nategr8ns

Pics!
Group Shot (sorry, kind of blurry)









Zalman Cooler accessories to the left along with the packaging (newspaper lawl), floppy cables?, some jumpers.









IO panels, retention thingy?, sata cable, audio module, case keys (lol), some cable hanger and a plastic cable cover (it didn't fit the sata cables, no idea...)









WTH did he do to this box? holy crap...









Packaged inside this with only some paper shopping bags as support -.-









Wow... srlslay! (edit: had to remove names and addresses, oops!)


----------



## boonie2

Geeze what did they do kick it all the way down the street to your house







, anyway congrats on the board nate


----------



## boonie2

Hey nate that freezer pro is gonna be turned the wrong way with that board , noticed that when i got mine too


----------



## nategr8ns

wait, what?


----------



## boonie2

lol Yeah I know thats what i said too , the way the cooler hold down bracket is the freezer pro will face either up or down not blowing out the rear of the case . thats why I went with the thermalright.The expert boards have a different configuration so freezer pros will mount correctly on those boards


----------



## nategr8ns

the hold down mechanism can come out and rotate 90Â°, ill try that...
or are you saying that components (like memory) block the cooler itself?


----------



## pioneerisloud

nategr8ns:
Well I was able to pass quite a few races in that mode. If you're referring to the fact that it says you require $80,000 to continue or something...that's to pass onto the next stage. Just hit enter and you should go onto one of the three races you can select







. It works fine for me.

To everyone else:
I just got 3x 80w peltiers. What are they? Can we use them on air cooling (see mine and froggy's rigs)? Will they benefit us and lower temps? How in the WORLD would you mount them?


----------



## boonie2

pio , check your PMs , if you guys cant do it all at 1 time we can work something out







I know all about tight times


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
nategr8ns:
Well I was able to pass quite a few races in that mode. If you're referring to the fact that it says you require $80,000 to continue or something...that's to pass onto the next stage. Just hit enter and you should go onto one of the three races you can select







. It works fine for me.

To everyone else:
I just got 3x 80w peltiers. What are they? Can we use them on air cooling (see mine and froggy's rigs)? Will they benefit us and lower temps? How in the WORLD would you mount them?

Check out vwgti's thread Would this peltier be sufficient? there are some nice links in it.


----------



## alexgheseger

Peltiers work by transfering heat from a "cold" side to a "hot" side via the use of electrical current. You mash the pelt between your CPU and your heatsink with the cold side touching the cpu.

The problem with pelts though is that they actually add heat to your cooling setup. For a peltier to move 80 W of heat from the cold side to the hot side, you will require AT LEAST 110+ W of current applied to the peltier. So essentially you make your heatsink work harder

However, peltiers in general are only used on high end water cooling rigs, as you just can't dissapate enough heat with air cooling normally. In your case in particular, the 80 W pelts simply will not be enough to keep your CPU cool.

wikipedia has an excellent article if you are interested in further reading.


----------



## vwgti

Hey guys, was wondering if you may be able to help me out on a problem Ive got, please refer to this thread http://www.overclock.net/windows/343...ml#post4013929 thanks in advance guys for any input.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vwgti* 
Hey guys, was wondering if you may be able to help me out on a problem Ive got, please refer to this thread http://www.overclock.net/windows/343...ml#post4013929 thanks in advance guys for any input.

posted some idea's for ya


----------



## pioneerisloud

Yeah veedub, I visited your thread, but I have almost NO clue what that could mean







. Sorry I couldn't help more.


----------



## vwgti

Thanks guys, and I have responded to you G.O.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vwgti* 
Thanks guys, and I have responded to you G.O.

10-4 good buddy, I have again responded to you....errrr eagle one out......ccccckkkkksshhhhhhhh....click


----------



## Masterchief3k

Add me! i've got this athlon 64 3000+ 1.8 Ghz...


----------



## vwgti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


10-4 good buddy, I have again responded to you....errrr eagle one out......ccccckkkkksshhhhhhhh....click


Thanks for all the help G.O. Just the waiting game to see if Ive solved it. If you decide to switch to xp 64, I believe microsoft has a free trial, that way we can see if we can your devices running without spilling the beans, try before you buy buddy.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Masterchief3k*


Add me! i've got this athlon 64 3000+ 1.8 Ghz...


Just provide a CPUz validation link, and you're in







. You can post it here or PM it to any of the club officers.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Wow. Work has been so crazy lately I haven't had time to come on in and say hi to y'all.

veedub, am looking at your thread right now. Hopefully you get to the bottom of those pesky BSODs.

G.O., glad to see pio's old card works for you!









nate, awesome that you got your first DFI. Hope you have fun learning all about it.









alex, great explanation on peltiers. Oh, and pio, the wattage ratings on those are key. You have to know how much wattage your component (in this case, your CPU) is putting out, so that you can get a good enough peltier unit rated highly enough to dissipate that thermal energy.









thlnk3r and I have got a bit of a ceasefire on our mano-a-mano duel, as he'll likely be using my Biostar TForce 6100-939. I'll be giving him the board this Saturday, if all goes according to plan. It'll be Biostar vs. DFI, thlnk3r vs. txtmstrjoe, X2 3600+ vs. X2 3600+.

(I wonder if thlnk3r will know if I sabotage the Biostar...







)







j/k!

pio, just got GRID today. Haven't installed it yet, but I likely will sometime this weekend. Can't wait to give it a good spin!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Wow. Work has been so crazy lately I haven't had time to come on in and say hi to y'all.

veedub, am looking at your thread right now. Hopefully you get to the bottom of those pesky BSODs.

G.O., glad to see pio's old card works for you!









nate, awesome that you got your first DFI. Hope you have fun learning all about it.









alex, great explanation on peltiers. Oh, and pio, the wattage ratings on those are key. You have to know how much wattage your component (in this case, your CPU) is putting out, so that you can get a good enough peltier unit rated highly enough to dissipate that thermal energy.









thlnk3r and I have got a bit of a ceasefire on our mano-a-mano duel, as he'll likely be using my Biostar TForce 6100-939. I'll be giving him the board this Saturday, if all goes according to plan. It'll be Biostar vs. DFI, thlnk3r vs. txtmstrjoe, X2 3600+ vs. X2 3600+.

(I wonder if thlnk3r will know if I sabotage the Biostar...







)







j/k!

pio, just got GRID today. Haven't installed it yet, but I likely will sometime this weekend. Can't wait to give it a good spin!










SWEET! I have a feeling you'll like GRID







.

And I KNEW that video card sounded familiar...and the fact that he thanked you personally for it...kinda gave it away







. Hey, I'm just happy its being passed around to good homes that'll love it and take good care of it.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


nategr8ns:
Well I was able to pass quite a few races in that mode. If you're referring to the fact that it says you require $80,000 to continue or something...that's to pass onto the next stage. Just hit enter and you should go onto one of the three races you can select







. It works fine for me.

To everyone else:
I just got 3x 80w peltiers. What are they? Can we use them on air cooling (see mine and froggy's rigs)? Will they benefit us and lower temps? How in the WORLD would you mount them?


dang, time to do a reinstall. It doesn't let me select them at all! and no keys work.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

nate, you asked about where to get a good wheel.

Here's what pio and I use, and for an insanely low price.







(I've bought from this vendor before and have had no problems.







)

The Egg has it for cheap as well.









Small update on my gaming rig (for those interested): Disabling NCQ on the new Seagates looks like an effective fix so far. No more Event ID 51s warnings showing up on the Event Viewer. Moreover, disabling NCQ has not shown up any perceptible performance issues whatsoever.

If only Phil Jackson can google fixes for the Lakers as easily as researching solutions to tech problems...


----------



## Anqt31

Hey guys, I though you would appreciate this OC. This OC was extremely unstable, so in between every task, I had to wait about 5 min, just to be sure it didn't restart on me.

TEMPS: MB: 32C, CPU IDLE: 40C, CPU LOAD: 58C or higher

Btw, I had freezer packs sitting inside my computer case, just to try to get the temperatures down a little.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

You're a brave one, Anqt! A 3-pointer *on stock cooling* with a Manchester is hugely impressive!







That VCore is also amazingly low for a Manchester running at that speed.









Well done!


----------



## Anqt31

Every time I go up that high, I'm scared stiff that something will go wrong, but that's extreme overclocking for you, its just not fun if you don't take some risks!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


Hey guys, I though you would appreciate this OC. This OC was extremely unstable, so in between every task, I had to wait about 5 min, just to be sure it didn't restart on me.

TEMPS: MB: 32C, CPU IDLE: 40C, CPU LOAD: 58C or higher

Btw, I had freezer packs sitting inside my computer case, just to try to get the temperatures down a little.


Anqt, that is the first 3000mhz OC I have seen with a Manchester. Great job









Is the voltage displayed in Coretemp accurate? Or are you running it actually higher then what is displayed?

+1 Good JOB!


----------



## Anqt31

In the bios, its set @ 1.4125. There is a little bit of fluctation. (1.392 - 1.410) So, yeah, it is a little higher than it cpuz is saying.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


In the bios, its set @ 1.4125. There is a little bit of fluctation. (1.392 - 1.410) So, yeah, it is a little higher than it cpuz is saying.


Anqt, very nice! Your full load temps will probably drop a little bit once you install an aftermarket cooler. Have you tested for stability by any chance?

Good luck


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Small update on my gaming rig (for those interested): Disabling NCQ on the new Seagates looks like an effective fix so far. No more Event ID 51s warnings showing up on the Event Viewer. Moreover, disabling NCQ has not shown up any perceptible performance issues whatsoever.


How do you disable NCQ? and what is it. I have a seagate as well.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


How do you disable NCQ? and what is it. I have a seagate as well.


Guardian, I believe it can be disabled through the Device Manager. Double-click the drive under "Disk Drives". Should be somewhere in there...might read something like, "disable tagged queuing". Also if your in IDE Mode then NCQ is disabled. If your in AHCI(native sata) mode then NCQ is automatically enabled.

Good luck


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


nate, you asked about where to get a good wheel.

Here's what pio and I use, and for an insanely low price.







(I've bought from this vendor before and have had no problems.







)

The Egg has it for cheap as well.










bit of a price difference between the two









So when I get home, I'm going to reinstall GRID. If it still doesn't work, I'm going to install my DFI Ultra-D and check for anything that may be disfunctional from the bang-up (he-he pun) job the shipper did on packaging it.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Guardian, I believe it can be disabled through the Device Manager. Double-click the drive under "Disk Drives". Should be somewhere in there...might read something like, "disable tagged queuing". Also if your in IDE Mode then NCQ is disabled. If your in AHCI(native sata) mode then NCQ is automatically enabled.

Good luck










I'm looking,but I do not see it anywhere.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
I'm looking,but I do not see it anywhere.

Guardian, perhaps that option is not available for your series hard drive. As far as I know that is how it is disabled.

Perhaps Joe can shed some light on this question...

Good luck


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Guardian, perhaps that option is not available for your series hard drive. As far as I know that is how it is disabled.

Perhaps Joe can shed some light on this question...

Good luck









He may have to, I've looked high and low and do not see it. Thanks for the help thou


----------



## txtmstrjoe

G.O., LOL I'm TERRIBLE about giving vocal instructions to stuff I'm not looking at at the moment.







But thlnk3r's right; it's in the Device Manager. If I'm not mistaken, you go to the IDE/ATAPI controllers branch, right click and select *Properties* for the correct drives (your Seagate HDD).

There should be a Primary and Secondary tab. One (or both) have the "Tag Qeueing" option; disable it (probably by unchecking).

This is only really advisable if your Event Viewer shows up Event ID 51 HDD errors, actually. If Event ID 51 isn't in the error log, I don't think you need to disable NCQ.

Hope this helps!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


G.O., LOL I'm TERRIBLE about giving vocal instructions to stuff I'm not looking at at the moment.







But thlnk3r's right; it's in the Device Manager. If I'm not mistaken, you go to the IDE/ATAPI controllers branch, right click and select *Properties* for the correct drives (your Seagate HDD).

There should be a Primary and Secondary tab. One (or both) have the "Tag Qeueing" option; disable it (probably by unchecking).

This is only really advisable if your Event Viewer shows up Event ID 51 HDD errors, actually. If Event ID 51 isn't in the error log, I don't think you need to disable NCQ.

Hope this helps!










ok found it now. Thanks Joe and Think


----------



## txtmstrjoe

G.O., I'm curious: Are you also getting Event ID 51 warnings/errors on your system?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


G.O., I'm curious: Are you also getting Event ID 51 warnings/errors on your system?


if thats a blue screen...then yes.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Well, Event ID 51s get logged in the System Event Viewer. They seem to be HDD-related, specifically those with NCQ capabilities. Maxtor and Seagate HDDs seem to be the most prevalent HDDs which generate this type of error.

My system hadn't blue-screened yet since I cloned the HDDs and put everything into the new Seagates. But I'm fastidious about having a stable system, so I do check the Event Viewer. I was shocked by the sudden proliferation of Event ID 51s getting logged, especially on boot.


----------



## thlnk3r

OT: Here is some helpful information for you GRID racers. Patch information: http://www.overclock.net/video-game-...patch-1-a.html


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Cool beans, thlnk3r!









I'll have to patch me game when I install it.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Well, Event ID 51s get logged in the System Event Viewer. They seem to be HDD-related, specifically those with NCQ capabilities. Maxtor and Seagate HDDs seem to be the most prevalent HDDs which generate this type of error.

My system hadn't blue-screened yet since I cloned the HDDs and put everything into the new Seagates. But I'm fastidious about having a stable system, so I do check the Event Viewer. I was shocked by the sudden proliferation of Event ID 51s getting logged, especially on boot.


dumb question here, where is the event viewer?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

G.O., go to Control Panel > Performance and Maintenance > Administrative Tools > Event Viewer > System.

"Now you know... and knowing is half the battle."

G.I. Joe!


----------



## GuardianOdin

nope no Event ID 51, but a tone of Tcpip errors and W32Time errors

EDIT: Spoke to soon. I have a butt load of 51's


----------



## thlnk3r

Guardiam, if your wanting to access the event viewer via run command, you can do this by typing in, "eventvwr.msc". I typically do "Windows key + R". This eliminates all of the clicking ect. Might save you 8 tenths of a second.

Good luck


----------



## GuardianOdin

man,thats just a lot of 51's in there


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Guardiam, if your wanting to access the event viewer via run command, you can do this by typing in, "eventvwr.msc". I typically do "Windows key + R". This eliminates all of the clicking ect. Might save you 8 tenths of a second.

Good luck










HOLY SHORTCUTS, Batman!

You know, thlnk3r, I never knew about that. This is why you are much stronger Jedi than I.

"The Force is strong in this one."


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


man,thats just a lot of 51's in there


Sorry for the double post, but G.O., have you tried disabling NCQ and rebooted, to see if the E.ID 51s stop recurring?

Good luck.


----------



## Anqt31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Anqt, very nice! Your full load temps will probably drop a little bit once you install an aftermarket cooler. Have you tested for stability by any chance?


Yeah, it's not too stable... I go into oblivion, but the computer crashed after about half an hour of playing. I don't use Orthos very often because it doesn't like my computer and won't run half the time.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Sorry for the double post, but G.O., have you tried disabling NCQ and rebooted, to see if the E.ID 51s stop recurring?

Good luck.









last event was 6-4-2008 ,I just rebooted and no errors. We'll see in a few days what happens.


----------



## prosser13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
last event was 6-4-2008 ,I just rebooted and no errors. We'll see in a few days what happens.

Do you mean any event or just that specfiic error?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *prosser13* 
Do you mean any event or just that specific error?









a specific error.


----------



## prosser13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
a specific error.

Good to hear









When my Samsung had bad blocks I had loads of hard drive errors









Think it's happened to my other one. Pah.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


OT: Here is some helpful information for you GRID racers. Patch information: http://www.overclock.net/video-game-...patch-1-a.html


thanks! Will try before I reinstall

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Guardiam, if your wanting to access the event viewer via run command, you can do this by typing in, "eventvwr.msc". I typically do "Windows key + R". This eliminates all of the clicking ect. Might save you 8 tenths of a second.

Good luck










hehe, someone else who knows about the windows key cuts!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


HOLY SHORTCUTS, Batman!

You know, thlnk3r, I never knew about that. This is why you are much stronger Jedi than I.

"The Force is strong in this one."


windows + F brings up search, windows + d minimizes all windows (desktop)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


I don't use Orthos very often because it doesn't like my computer and won't run half the time.


Anqt, that's probably because your overclock is not stable. It's recommend that you test for stability. With Orthos, I typically run the Blend test at Priority 9 for at least 8-9hrs. Keep your eyes on your full load temps. The Orthos blend test will raise your temperatures significantly.

Good luck


----------



## nategr8ns

downloading GRID patch









does anybody know an easy / way to make / buy 3pin fan connector to molex adapters?
I ask because I want to attach my molex fans to my Rheobus, but I don't have any way to connect them (Safely







)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

So nate, you gonna join pio and me when we go racing?

Speaking of which, thlnk3r! You need to get you wheel + pedals and join the hilarity with Blitz, pio, and me! They like to tag-team me, you know!


----------



## nategr8ns

well how do I find a specific server? I can join you guys as soon as you tell me! In grid that is...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Speaking of which, thlnk3r! You need to get you wheel + pedals and join the hilarity with Blitz, pio, and me! They like to tag-team me, you know!










Joe, my wife recently put me on the budget plan


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


well how do I find a specific server? I can join you guys as soon as you tell me! In grid that is...


Well, pio's usually the man when it comes to setting up these things. I just show up whenever and wherever he tells me to. Besides, I've got to install the game first.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Joe, my wife recently put me on the budget plan


















D'oh!

Well, you'll still be getting Race07 from, uh, one of your pals (yeah, that's it...).


----------



## nategr8ns

hey, I want race07 too!
does the game require the patch to play multiplayer now? some games have to be the most recent version to play online.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


hey, I want race07 too!
does the game require the patch to play multiplayer now? some games have to be the most recent version to play online.


Race07 requiring a patch? Not as far as I'm aware...

In fact, there's an idea that's been bandied about here before: Having a Club S939-exclusive Race07 meet.







It's an excellent game, especially given the relatively low price for entry ($20.00 @ Best Buy when I got it). All you need is some driving ability and a good set of controls, and you're gold!


----------



## GuardianOdin

I'd love to get one of these

Logitech G25

Logitech MOMO Racing Force

Logitech Driving Force Pro


----------



## Anqt31

What game you guys playing? And is there a link to buy it?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I race with the Momo (pio does too). Works great.







And mine's getting older now, almost two and a half years old.









I forget what kind of wheel Blitzer has.









@ Anqt: We're talking about Race07.


----------



## Anqt31

Thanks, I'll have to order it sometime. I'll let you know when I get it.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


Thanks, I'll have to order it sometime. I'll let you know when I get it.


Cool!

Just be careful of two things:

1) If racing with Blitz and you've got a comm system, be prepared for a lot of chatter. ESPECIALLY if pioneer is also on.









2) If racing with pioneer, he'll try to sucker you in with his sandbagging, then blow your doors off once the race starts.







Tricky, that pioneerdoesdonuts...


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Cool!

Just be careful of two things:

1) If racing with Blitz and you've got a comm system, be prepared for a lot of chatter. ESPECIALLY if pioneer is also on.









2) If racing with pioneer, he'll try to sucker you in with his sandbagging, then blow your doors off once the race starts.







Tricky, that pioneerdoesdonuts...










just wait until I get a wheel.


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


just wait until I get a wheel.


oh noez


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


well how do I find a specific server? I can join you guys as soon as you tell me! In grid that is...


Well I'll work on hosting a GRID server







. When we're racing, we can be found on xFire or Steam chat. I'm ALWAYS using the same name for everything.....so there's a little hint







.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


What game you guys playing? And is there a link to buy it?


We're talking about GRID and Race07. I don't honestly know the price tag on GRID, but Race07 is only $19.99 at Best Buy. And its a GREAT game. I'm getting my 24/7 servers up and running hopefully tonight...so there'll be a Race07 server going up soon for us to use.

Again...anybody that wants to race with us, needs to add us to an IM client. Whether it be Steam, Xfire, AIM, YIM, MSN, Myspace IM...I've got them all. And I use the same SN on all of them







.

Also...I can TEMPORARILY host a Race07 game whenever now on my sig rig. I figured out the proper ports to forward for it.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Awesome, pio!


----------



## Blitz6804

Okay, news update. I am still at my parent's house. My mom is guilting me into staying longer. However, accordingly, I am getting even. I just got my hands on Call of Duty 4 among others.

To address prior posts:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
yeah, this is one of the only good places left... It's weird. The Internet just breeds some annoying people I guess...
I'm tempted to buy some sort of SNES controller for my PC... Do they make SNES -> USB adapters?









I myself have two of these. They work great, plug-and-play in XP and Vista. Look into Joy2Key if you want to be able to bind keys to buttons rather than use buttons as such.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
No wont be running all 4 , my vistas only 32 bit so .... got great deals on both sets couldnt pass them by you know? might try running these Corsairs and 2-512 Adata ddr500 for 3gb and see how that goes but ill lose my 1T

Do NOT mix densities or companies. It would be better to double down on the RAM and have some wasted than trying to get exactly 3 GB by mismatched sticks. Ask Pioneer for evidence...

1T, 2T... I do not notice a huge difference. I can however notice a difference between 2 GB and 2+ GB in Vista.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
hey, I want race07 too!
does the game require the patch to play multiplayer now? some games have to be the most recent version to play online.

It is a game through Steam. It will autopatch as needed. You cannot play period if you are out of date.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I forget what kind of wheel Blitzer has.









I have a pair of Logitech Driving Force (PS2) wheels. They work on PS2, PS3, and PC (with proper driverage).

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Again...anybody that wants to race with us, needs to add us to an IM client. Whether it be Steam, Xfire, AIM, YIM, MSN, Myspace IM...I've got them all. And I use the same SN on all of them







.

Also...I can TEMPORARILY host a Race07 game whenever now on my sig rig. I figured out the proper ports to forward for it.

Xfire is the best; voice chat beats typing hands down when trying to race. (Any other time I prefer to type.)

At present, I tend to be the host of games. The dedicated server has an advantage of being passwordable, but the disadvantage of being less convenient. On the flip side, I am on the east coast, and so often cannot play as late as others.


----------



## nategr8ns

sorry guys, I was talking about the new patch for GRID, not Race07.

if you get a steam friends invitation, its probably me









edit: blondieflurt


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


sorry guys, I was talking about the new patch for GRID, not Race07.

if you get a steam friends invitation, its probably me









edit: blondieflurt










Roger that....added you I think. Stein is you, right?


----------



## boonie2

Of course theres a noticiable difference between 1T and 2T Blitz , cmon


----------



## nategr8ns

I be stein









edit: anybody got an extra retention bracket lying around? My DFI board didn't come with one.
I also may buy a round Yellow UV IDE cable if anybody has one of those too


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
Of course theres a noticiable difference between 1T and 2T Blitz , cmon









In benchmarking to be sure. In the "real world," it is negligible.


----------



## boonie2

I have to disagree , personally I can tell the difference


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Okay, news update. I am still at my parent's house. My mom is guilting me into staying longer. However, accordingly, I am getting even. I just got my hands on Call of Duty 4 among others.

Blitz, I hope your stay with your parents is nice. I'm sure you'll enjoy COD4. That game has some excellent graphics. There was an option in the "video settings" that I had to disable because it was killing my frames but after it was unchecked I received a surprising 80-90FPS consistently at 1440x900. Excellent game!

Have fun


----------



## vwgti

Well guys turned out my bsods were related to the latest nvidia whql driver release of 175.16, I have reverted to 169.32 and had no issues since. Wierd its taken a few weeks to lurk bsods upon me, but none the less glad Im back and stable.


----------



## boonie2




----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vwgti*


Well guys turned out my bsods were related to the latest nvidia whql driver release of 175.16, I have reverted to 169.32 and had no issues since. Wierd its taken a few weeks to lurk bsods upon me, but none the less glad Im back and stable.



I guess pauldovi's statement holds true:

"Nvida, the way it's meant to..................BSOD"









j/k glad you got it figured out


----------



## GuardianOdin

Ran 1M SuperPi after some adjustments to my RAM. I dropped from 29 sec to 28 sec..a little better.


----------



## nategr8ns

nice GO! Beats my times by a lot









Whats that program that lets you simulate keypresses with a controller? I have a really old controller up and running now. I'm going to try and set up a "media center" PC with emulators, so I don't have to have all of my old school consoles hooked up








I can't get the computer to output to the TV though. I have an old TV so there's no way i can do normal things on it, just SNES and maybe some Dreamcast if I can get ROMs for it.


----------



## thlnk3r

Nice going G.O.









That is one quick 165


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vwgti* 
Well guys turned out my bsods were related to the latest nvidia whql driver release of 175.16, I have reverted to 169.32 and had no issues since. Wierd its taken a few weeks to lurk bsods upon me, but none the less glad Im back and stable.

Well, the fix is to get a card with better driver support. Pity 3DFX went under. I miss them.

(I had 3DFX before ATI)

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
nice GO! Beats my times by a lot









Whats that program that lets you simulate keypresses with a controller? I have a really old controller up and running now. I'm going to try and set up a "media center" PC with emulators, so I don't have to have all of my old school consoles hooked up








I can't get the computer to output to the TV though. I have an old TV so there's no way i can do normal things on it, just SNES and maybe some Dreamcast if I can get ROMs for it.

You are looking for Joy 2 Key. All the way at the bottom of the page.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Nice going G.O.









That is one quick 165









thanks, I'm shooting for 27 seconds. Right now I don't know what else I could do other than running at 3.1Ghz....but then I'd need better cooling becuase air cooling just isn't cutting it.









I have tinkering with the RAM timings all day which I will post as soon as I get the time.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Yo dudes and dudette, anyone of you ever have a sound card die on you?

I'm not at the primary rig at the moment, but I was talking about this with thlnk3rb377 last night. Ever since I switched from my Western Digital HDDs to the Seagates, my gaming rig has been having issues with stuttering sound. I'm not quite sure whether this is due to the new HDDs (the stutters occur when playing FLACs, which are stored on the HDDs; gaming sounds are also stuttering -- it doesn't matter if the games need the CD-ROM or if they don't; finally, the sounds in DVDs/HDD-local movies also stutter) or if it's a sound card issue.

A more precise description of the symptom: Song is playing normally, then there's this rapid fire repetition of a particular part of the file, then everything re-syncs. Sometimes, there is also a brief cut in the audio signal, then it resumes just as rapidly.

Things I've tried so far: Reseating the card; uninstalling and reinstalling the drivers; praying.

Any suggestions?


----------



## GuardianOdin

same thing was happening to me with the DFI add-on sound card. I reseated the card and cleaned it. I also reinstalled the drivers. I'm not sure what exactly caused it, but it seemed to work.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Yo dudes and dudette, anyone of you ever have a sound card die on you?

I'm not at the primary rig at the moment, but I was talking about this with thlnk3rb377 last night. Ever since I switched from my Western Digital HDDs to the Seagates, my gaming rig has been having issues with stuttering sound. I'm not quite sure whether this is due to the new HDDs (the stutters occur when playing FLACs, which are stored on the HDDs; gaming sounds are also stuttering -- it doesn't matter if the games need the CD-ROM or if they don't; finally, the sounds in DVDs/HDD-local movies also stutter) or if it's a sound card issue.

A more precise description of the symptom: Song is playing normally, then there's this rapid fire repetition of a particular part of the file, then everything re-syncs. Sometimes, there is also a brief cut in the audio signal, then it resumes just as rapidly.

Things I've tried so far: Reseating the card; uninstalling and reinstalling the drivers; praying.

Any suggestions?










sounds like the problem I was having for a while...


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz, I know how you feel about 3DFX...those were the good days









Joe, if you do end up swapping drives and testing things that way I'm very curious if that resolves your problem. I find it very suspicious that you only started seeing these problems after you installed the Seagate drive.

Good luck


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, I know how you feel about 3DFX...those were the good days









Joe, if you do end up swapping drives and testing things that way I'm very curious if that resolves your problem. I find it very suspicious that you only started seeing these problems after you installed the Seagate drive.

Good luck










me as well. I am not happy with the performance for my seagate.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I'll try mounting the image on a new drive when I get home tonight (if I have time); for sure I'll try it by tomorrow evening. I'll also check RAM, but I find it to be an unlikely cause of the symptoms.

By the way, thlnk3r, I misspoke last night when we were talking about our one-on-one X2 3600+ Manchester duel. I mistakenly said "Orthos" for one hour; I meant OCCT instead. The default test for OCCT is now one hour.

Sorry for the misinformation.









EDIT: G.O., I found something funny out about these Seagate drives. If you check for your SATA connection speeds through your Device Manager (same way as before), you might see that the drive is running at SATA 1.5 spec speed. I was mystified when I saw this for the first time yesterday. nF4 boards support SATA 3.0 speeds, but this Seagate drive is only doing SATA Gen. 1 speed.

Seagate, apparently, ships its Barracudas with a jumper holding the drive back to SATA Gen. 1 speed; take off the jumper, and the drive operates at full (3.0) speed. I'm doing this as soon as I get home.

Hopefully this will improve your Seagate's performance.


----------



## alexgheseger

@TMJ, I had that exact same issue with my rig. Turns out it was due to my Seagates running in RAID. Are your seagates in RAID0/1?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexgheseger*


@TMJ, I had that exact same issue with my rig. Turns out it was due to my Seagates running in RAID. Are your seagates in RAID0/1?


Negative. Strictly JBOD setup on mine.

Who knew HDDs were so finicky?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Seagate, apparently, ships its Barracudas with a jumper holding the drive back to SATA Gen. 1 speed; take off the jumper, and the drive operates at full (3.0) speed. I'm doing this as soon as I get home.


Joe, that is fascinating, I didn't know Seagate did that


----------



## alexgheseger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Negative. Strictly JBOD setup on mine.

Who knew HDDs were so finicky?










Heh, seagates are a little temperamental sometimes. Only thing i could suggest is live sacrifice... got a cat?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexgheseger*


Heh, seagates are a little temperamental sometimes. Only thing i could suggest is live sacrifice... got a cat?












Maybe I can borrow my sister and brother-in-law's...

(Dials their phone number...)


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


EDIT: G.O., I found something funny out about these Seagate drives. If you check for your SATA connection speeds through your Device Manager (same way as before), you might see that the drive is running at SATA 1.5 spec speed. I was mystified when I saw this for the first time yesterday. nF4 boards support SATA 3.0 speeds, but this Seagate drive is only doing SATA Gen. 1 speed.

Seagate, apparently, ships its Barracudas with a jumper holding the drive back to SATA Gen. 1 speed; take off the jumper, and the drive operates at full (3.0) speed. I'm doing this as soon as I get home.

Hopefully this will improve your Seagate's performance.










 I removed the jumper since day one







. I think the drive just isn't as stable as it should be. Now the older WD I have at work seems faster and much more stable. I may end up swapping the two and doing a fresh OS install on the two...or... just buying a WD and replacing the seagate all together.


----------



## Blitz6804

Joe, perhaps trying a different PCI slot. I am dubious, but you may have created an IRQ conflict.

Like I said, I am dubious, but "try, try, and try again."


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


I removed the jumper since day one







. I think the drive just isn't as stable as it should be. Now the older WD I have at work seems faster and much more stable. I may end up swapping the two and doing a fresh OS install on the two...or... just buying a WD and replacing the seagate all together.


You knew this from the beginning?

And you didn't tell me?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


You knew this from the beginning?

And you didn't tell me?



















kinda thought you knew already


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


kinda thought you knew already

















You think I know everything?









I may be an undead specter who has taken the physical form of a ninja warrior dressed in black and yellow, but I am not omniscient.

I sometimes play one on TV, though...

@ Blitz: Ah yes. Will try the PCI slot merry-go-round. I HAVE checked for IRQ conflicts, though, and there were none whatsoever. (And thlnk3r told me last night that if there were IRQ conflicts, the card would simply not work at all.)

Thanks, gents, for all your helpful ideas and support!


----------



## thlnk3r

Joe, here's an odd ball suggestion but try also disabling S.M.A.R.T. Perhaps that may bring some positive results(you never know). What are the drives temperatures during operation?

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Usually, stuttering audio is either an IRQ conflict or a driver conflict. It is possible that the HDD drivers do not like the Soundcard drivers. I am dubious, but still. It is more likely that the image file did not transfer right.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Joe, here's an odd ball suggestion but try also disabling S.M.A.R.T. Perhaps that may bring some positive results(you never know). What are the drives temperatures during operation?

Good luck


That is in the BIOS correct?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hmm... interesting suggestion, thlnk3r. Will try that.









Drive temps have consistently been 27 - 28 degs C, per Everest Ultimate.


----------



## Blitz6804

It should be GuardianOdin. In my case, it is in my hidden BIOS menu.

DFI should be wide open.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


It should be GuardianOdin. In my case, it is in my hidden BIOS menu.

DFI should be wide open.


Yep, I already had it disabled....man I'm always ahead of myself









I wished I had hidden BIOS stuff too


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Gotta face the facts, G.O.: You're just the awesomest bunch of awesome there ever was!


















(Blitzer ain't bad, either.)


----------



## Blitz6804

To buck tradition (recall my penchant for CnQ) I also turn S.M.A.R.T. on. It is off by default.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Blitz, I've been thinking about the driver conflict possibility and/or the possibility that there was some corruption with the image/image mounting. When I first encountered the symptoms I described, one of the first things I did was uninstall the sound card drivers, then reinstall them; wouldn't this have sidestepped the possibility of driver-related issues?

I'm a little hesitant to consider the possibility that the mounted image was somehow bad; my thinking is that, if indeed it was a bad image, shouldn't there be other problems as well? It seems unlikely that the only problems would be isolated to just the sound card performance.


----------



## Blitz6804

Have you tried reinstalling the Seagate drivers?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Gotta face the facts, G.O.: You're just the awesomest bunch of awesome there ever was!


















(Blitzer ain't bad, either.)


trying to break my arm patting myself on the back









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


To buck tradition (recall my penchant for CnQ) I 
also turn S.M.A.R.T. on. It is off by default.


shhhh.....


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Have you tried reinstalling the Seagate drivers?


Negative. Will put that on the list of things to try.









@ G.O.: You are the very definition of *AWESOMENESSITY*.









Muhahahahahaha


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Negative. Will put that on the list of things to try.









@ G.O.: You are the very definition of *AWESOMENESSITY*.









Muhahahahahaha


tell that to my girlfriend.....









according to the seagate site, no drivers are needed for the internal SATA drives. I may have been looking in the wrong spot thou.


----------



## Blitz6804

No Seagate driver is required. I mistyped, I did not mean "reinstall the Seagate driver" I meant "reinstall the driver for the Seagate." It is a subtle distinction, but one none-the-less. Meaning, reinstall the Windows driver. It is possible that an image flash is not possible given different SATA/RAID drivers.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Seagate, apparently, ships its Barracudas with a jumper holding the drive back to SATA Gen. 1 speed; take off the jumper, and the drive operates at full (3.0) speed. I'm doing this as soon as I get home.

Hopefully this will improve your Seagate's performance.









I knew something before joe did, I knew something before joe did!








If I recall correctly, it's there because the drive will not run on a Sata1 slot if the jumper is removed (because it forces Sata2 speeds I think...)

Anybody have an extra retention bracket? I didn't get one with my new motherboard, and I'm trying to set up two 939 systems (one with all my old parts and one with all my new parts). I'll pay you for it








I'll also buy a round yellow UV IDE cable, the ones that come with the DFI. I only need one I think...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

nate, PM me your details. I've got an extra retention bracket; I may even have one of those IDE cables from DFI you're looking for.


----------



## nategr8ns

heh, pio said you might








edit: lol domo


----------



## alexgheseger

Hey, so is there anyone here that is wise in the ways of the phenom? I'm getting pretty tired of my intel rig, and i'm thinking about going 9850 BE + 790FX but i've kinda got no clue as to what i should be looking for in the motherboard department...

Could the venerable wise ones of the 939 club enlighten this poor plebe?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexgheseger*


Hey, so is there anyone here that is wise in the ways of the phenom? I'm getting pretty tired of my intel rig, and i'm thinking about going 9850 BE + 790FX but i've kinda got no clue as to what i should be looking for in the motherboard department...

Could the venerable wise ones of the 939 club enlighten this poor plebe?










Well I hear the DFI 790FX is great for the Phenom, but I have seen some good results with Gigabyte motherboards as well.


----------



## alexgheseger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Well I hear the DFI 790FX is great for the Phenom, but I have seen some good results with Gigabyte motherboards as well.


Holy crap, I just looked at the DFI's on the egg. They are cheap! Thanks for the advice.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexgheseger*


Holy crap, I just looked at the DFI's on the egg. They are cheap! Thanks for the advice.


You're welcome, I'm looking at those myself.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

G.O., alex, either of you care to get me one of those Phenom-ready DFIs too?
















Gaaakh. This game is killing me! I'm gonna be dead at work tomorrow, as I'm still here at my parents' house.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


G.O., alex, either of you care to get me one of those Phenom-ready DFIs too?
















Gaaakh. This game is killing me! I'm gonna be dead at work tomorrow, as I'm still here at my parents' house.










Man, if I had the cash. I would get all of us a DFI Mobo. What game are you playing?


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


You're welcome, I'm looking at those myself.

















BLASPHEMY


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*
















BLASPHEMY

















???????


----------



## boonie2

contemplating going to the darkside?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


contemplating going to the darkside?










oh god no. AMD Phenom with a DFI 790FX Mobo. I'd never go Intel....neverererererererererererererererer ever.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Man, if I had the cash. I would get all of us a DFI Mobo. *What game are you playing*?


NBA.

YIKES! Missed a play!


----------



## boonie2

oh god i must have missed the phenom part , just glancing thru and saw something about intel dooooooooooooooooooooooooooah


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Pheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeew!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


oh god i must have missed the phenom part , just glancing thru and saw something about intel dooooooooooooooooooooooooooah


LOL


----------



## alexgheseger

Geez, i thought boonie would be happy that someone's switching from the dark side... LOL

When the 4870x2's roll out, i'm gonna build me a spider rig i think







.
Anyone know about these vaunted SB750 southbridges that are suppose to be out later this year?


----------



## thlnk3r

Joe, a corrupt drive image could be an issue but I can't imagine that being the case. I use Acronis at work almost daily. I've re-imaged countless machines and have never ran into any serious issues. I've had compatibility issues with Realtek chipsets ect but nothing like you have described.

Let us know how testing goes...I'm curious









Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexgheseger*


When the 4870x2's roll out, i'm gonna build me a spider rig i think







.
?


Alex, what's wrong with your current rig? The specifications look awesome to me


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Alex, what's wrong with your current rig? The specifications look awesome to me










Shhhhhh....don't scare him off. Our legion is growing stronger by the day.









and AMD is fun to OC.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Shhhhhh....don't scare him off. Our legion is growing stronger by the day.









and AMD is fun to OC.

I mean honestly Alex has a great rig. Unless he's bored with OCing, there really shouldn't be a reason to buy new hardware. Save your money


----------



## Blitz6804

He is not scaring anyone away GuardianOdin. Alex is already a member!

Anyone wanting to dump nVidia on its ear sounds great to me. Still no joy in Vista...

In other news, I just got Vista SP1 for my laptop. The good: while the system is running, it is snappier. Further, the safely remove hardware wizard works again. That broke the second day I was running the 'top. The bad: boot up time has tripled and shut down has doubled. What the heck man?


----------



## alexgheseger

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
I mean honestly Alex has a great rig. Unless he's bored with OCing, there really shouldn't be a reason to buy new hardware. Save your money









Oh yeah, it is a great rig, and it's got a ton of power, but i am tired of tweaking this one. There really isn't too much tweaking to an intel OC. Jack up FSB, jack up voltage, rinse and repeat...

I just would like to try my hand at OC'ing an AMD rig, and since the price of entry is pretty low, what better time to do so? I also think that in the near future AMD is going to offer a stronger platform than intel can.

I figure when the 4870x2's roll out, i'll buy one of those, put it in my intel rig, and then supplant the 3870's and 4 GB of RAM into a 9850 BE + 790FX combo (maybe buy another 3870 if they get cheap enough) . That way i can have some real fun with AMD OC goodness, but still keep the QX6700, which is practically worthless in terms of resale value anyway, so i might as well keep it.

EDIT: @blitz, give it a week, it'll get better i promise! It just needs a while to get superfetch tuned to you.


----------



## crazcookye

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexgheseger* 
Oh yeah, it is a great rig, and it's got a ton of power, but i am tired of tweaking this one. *There really isn't too much tweaking to an intel OC. Jack up FSB, jack up voltage, rinse and repeat...*

I just would like to try my hand at OC'ing an AMD rig, and since the price of entry is pretty low, what better time to do so? I also think that in the near future AMD is going to offer a stronger platform than intel can.

I figure when the 4870x2's roll out, i'll buy one of those, put it in my intel rig, and then supplant the 3870's and 4 GB of RAM into a 9850 BE + 790FX combo (maybe buy another 3870 if they get cheap enough) . That way i can have some real fun with AMD OC goodness, but still keep the QX6700, which is practically worthless in terms of resale value anyway, so i might as well keep it.

EDIT: @blitz, give it a week, it'll get better i promise! It just needs a while to get superfetch tuned to you.


LOL I love that part. I have had the 939 Opty 175 for almost 8 hours now..and it is still on stock speeds. Trying to get this thing to overclock requires some reading...lol.


----------



## vwgti

Hey there crazycookye, is there any questions I can answer for you? What are the specs of the opteron system, Im sure I can get you on your way.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


I mean honestly Alex has a great rig. Unless he's bored with OCing, there really shouldn't be a reason to buy new hardware. Save your money











Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


He is not scaring anyone away GuardianOdin. Alex is already a member!


I know he's a member already







I know he'll have fun OC'ing a new Phenom rig. I for one can't wait until I have the money to do so. Then we'll have to make a new club


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


I know he's a member already







I know he'll have fun OC'ing a new Phenom rig. I for one can't wait until I have the money to do so. Then we'll have to make a new club










G.O., would you let me join said club?


----------



## pioneerisloud

And me too? I'll be the head *BOOB!*


----------



## GuardianOdin

I can be bribed with chocolate chip cookies"home made" and don't skimp on the chips!







and of course Joe, you may join.....in about a year when I get a Phenom and start the club lol

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


And me too? I'll be the head *BOOB!*


I'll go motor Boat'in.....


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Haha! It's official, because it's now in writing!

Blitz will hopefully back me up when he sees this!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Hey I'll back u up! And you saw the remark about the cookies! I'll have them sent out USPS ground....you should have some nice moldy cookies in about 10-15 business days GO!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Haha! It's official, because it's now in writing!

Blitz will hopefully back me up when he sees this!










who what where?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Hey I'll back u up! And you saw the remark about the cookies! I'll have them sent out USPS ground....you should have some nice moldy cookies in about 10-15 business days GO!


I'll set them out for the customers at my job. I'll just grab a butter knife and shave off the fuzzy green parts.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Wait a second, pio.

I don't remember being offered a bribe when you asked to be this club's head boob...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


who what where?

I'll set them out for the customers at my job. I'll just grab a butter knife and shave off the fuzzy green parts.


ROFL!!!!!!!







!!!!!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Wait a second, pio.

I don't remember being offered a bribe when you asked to be this club's head boob...










Well that's simply because you didn't ask for a bribe







.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


ROFL!!!!!!!







!!!!!

Well that's simply because you didn't ask for a bribe







.


LOL......You always have to ask. tsk tsk tsk


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Awww. I thought I knew you well enough to not even ask.


















By the way, I've been analyzing my stuttering audio situation a little, and one of the changes I made was to use different SATA ports on my board. I wonder if I went back to the ports I'd used originally (the upper two in the cluster of four; SATA 1 & 2, if I'm not mistaken) if the problem would disappear...









Methinks I'll try that first tomorrow.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Awww. I thought I knew you well enough to not even ask.


















By the way, I've been analyzing my stuttering audio situation a little, and one of the changes I made was to use different SATA ports on my board. I wonder if I went back to the ports I'd used originally (the upper two in the cluster of four; SATA 1 & 2, if I'm not mistaken) if the problem would disappear...









Methinks I'll try that first tomorrow.



I used port #3 for my drive. 1 & 2 gave me issues, I really have no clue as to why.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

These PCs are more temperamental and harder to understand than women sometimes...









(I hope my girlfriend never acquires a taste for this hobby. Otherwise I'm a dead man.







)


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


These PCs are more temperamental and harder to understand than women sometimes...









(I hope my girlfriend never acquires a taste for this hobby. Otherwise I'm a dead man.







)


don't worry, if she anything like mine. We are pretty darn safe. I get a blank stare when I take about computers with mine......I mean it's like looking into an vast empty void of "I really don't care"


----------



## txtmstrjoe

^^ I'm so tempted to add a "Notes from The Brute Squad" portion to my sig with that gem!


----------



## GuardianOdin

quoteth away my friend! lol "notes from the Brute Squad" I like that. Ok gents I'm off to bed. I have to get some work done on my drawing tomorrow. Same time'ish tomorrow


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well my girl really likes her computers. Its kinda fun sometimes when she's "in the mood" to tinker with her rig! I like to teach computer stuff though.....

Well you guys already knew that though!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Well my girl really likes her computers. Its kinda fun sometimes when she's "in the mood" to tinker with her rig! I like to teach computer stuff though.....

Well you guys already knew that though!


man, you are lucky to be able to share the hobby with her. Embrace the love


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


quoteth away my friend! lol "notes from the Brute Squad" I like that. Ok gents I'm off to bed. I have to get some work done on my drawing tomorrow. Same time'ish tomorrow


"As you wish."


----------



## Murderous Moppet

Sup,
I would like to join this amazing Socket 939 Appreciation Club.
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=376349
There's my CPU-Z validation. Vcore is at 1.5v, doesn't show on there, and CPU-Z shows it at +3.24 which is of course my +3.3v rail, I also have to keep the cpu at 2.4*10 just for stability.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Murderous Moppet*


Sup,
I would like to join this amazing Socket 939 Appreciation Club.
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=376349
There's my CPU-Z validation. Vcore is at 1.5v, doesn't show on there, and CPU-Z shows it at 2.98, which, is actually my +3.24 which is of course my +3.3v rail, I also have to keep the cpu at 2.4*10 just for stability.


Welcome to our club!

If you lower your HT Link down to 4x, or even 3x, you'll find you can probably reach a higher overclock. 939 processors tend to like at or below 1000MHz HT Link







. Just a friendly word of advice.


----------



## Murderous Moppet

Thanks for the welcome, and for the advice.
This motherboard of mine is a POS and I can't touch the HT speed from what I've discovered by poking around the BIOS for a half hour, looking specifically for it.


----------



## boonie2

Welcome Moppet


----------



## froggy1986

Welcome to the club moppet... gl with ur mobo


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Well my girl really likes her computers. Its kinda fun sometimes when she's "in the mood" to tinker with her rig! I like to teach computer stuff though.....

Well you guys already knew that though!


I like to teach and talk about computers as well. But no one I know outside of this forum is interested in them. It's funny because when people find out that I built my own PC they think I'm some sort of uber computer god or something. I try to tell them it's not difficult at all and attempt to explain it but they don't listen because they assume it'll be over their head.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Iceman0803* 
I like to teach and talk about computers as well. But no one I know outside of this forum is interested in them. It's funny because when people find out that I built my own PC they think I'm some sort of uber computer god or something. I try to tell them it's not difficult at all and attempt to explain it but they don't listen because they assume it'll be over their head.

haha! That sounds like me







. Only a handful of people in Maine know what a "CPU" is.


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
haha! That sounds like me







. Only a handful of people in Maine know what a "CPU" is.

Everyone that I talk to, or that tries to talk to me, about computers thinks the CPU is the whole case.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Iceman0803* 
Everyone that I talk to, or that tries to talk to me, about computers thinks the CPU is the whole case.









ah, see when I say case, people think that I'm going to be carrying my computer to business meetings or something -.-

ignorant majority


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
ah, see when I say case, people think that I'm going to be carrying my computer to business meetings or something -.-

ignorant majority










I try to tell people they can learn a lot by reading. That's how I learned most of what I know (well, that along with trial and error







).


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Welcome, Murderous Moppet!

You've been formally added to our Club roster.









Hope you enjoy your stay.


----------



## thlnk3r

Welcome to the club Murderous Moppet









Ok guys, last week I asked how you inherited your screen name/alias, now it's time to tell us *what was your FIRST computer*?!?! Please post pics/links/speicfications

Click the below wiki to see what I ran for a while back in the day:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Commodore_128


----------



## GuardianOdin

Welcome Murderous Moppet









My first PC was the Commodore 64. I fondly remember playing Bruce Lee and Friday the 13th on it......awesome graphics! lol Well they were better than Atari at the time.


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Welcome to the club Murderous Moppet









Ok guys, last week I asked how you inherited your screen name/alias, now it's time to tell us *what was your FIRST computer*?!?! Please post pics/links/speicfications

Click the below wiki to see what I ran for a while back in the day:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Commodore_128

My first PC was actually a family PC that my mom got for free from her job. They upgraded to newer models and were just throwing away the old ones. Anyway, it was some IBM thing with a 33MHz Intel chip. I remember being frustrated with it because I had Doom installed on it but to get any decent performance I had to make the screen size really small. I could barely see anything but I still played the hell out of it.







On top of that all it had for sound was the PC speaker so whenever you shot a gun or something it would just beep lol.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Oh wow. The very first computer (as opposed to gaming console -- that would be an Atari 2600 from way back in the mid-1980s) my family owned was something called a Compudyne (I forget the model number and what specs it has). My parents bought it at CompUSA with the help of a family friend. I remember it cost something like $2000.00 back in the early 1990s







.

It wasn't even top of the line (not remotely). It was quirky little thing that ran fine for what we needed at the time. I remember playing Castle Wolfenstein, Jeopardy!, and Geoff Crammond's World Circuit on this thing.







The one thing I hated about it, though, was how the printer was set up: It would print one page, then spit out an empty page, then print the next page. LOL

Joe didn't know much about PCs back then, so I never tinkered with it.

The machine still works, incidentally. My sister has never let go of it, and from time to time we turn it on and play DOS-based games on it.


----------



## nategr8ns

Well my dad had a Commadore 64 which we still have, but mine was custom built, I think from about 1995. Don't remember specs, and neither does my dad.


----------



## GuardianOdin

this makes me feel old.... I remember the advertisements for the original Atari on TV


----------



## nategr8ns

Anybody here have a dreamcast that they're willing to sell?
I've recently been getting into it after somebody brought one to a small Starcraft lanparty / Smash Bros Brawl gathering


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well my first ever computer was an "Apple Centris 660AV". I remember I could back up my ENTIRE hard drive to a single ZIP-100 disk (parallel and external of course)! I'd just pop in my zip disk for my games (left room so I could add more later). Or if I felt like typing something, I'd just pop in my "Programs" zip disk. It was great fun. I kinda miss it, but then again I don't.

My first ever actual Windows box was:
AMD Athlon K6 266MHz
128MB SD RAM
30GB Hard drive (I put this in myself!!!) (used to have 4GB)
Windows 98...I upgraded it to XP when it first came out myself
Onboard Trident VGA with a ribbon cable to connect it to the board.

After that, my parents bought Dells (eewww). Sold my Dell to my dad's work, to buy my first laptop. Sold the laptop to do my first actual custom build. Been building them up ever since!


----------



## nategr8ns

wait... if it's an onboard video card, why did you need to connect it to the board via a ribbon cable







?

in other news, I just started a mouse paint job. Using my Logitech wireless USB mouse (forget model... lx7 maybe?). You will see the theme once it is finished








Forgot to take a before pic, but once I get a mouse (







) I will get a pic off google









It was a PITA holding tab to get to the "last page" link on all of my subscribed threads, but i did it!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I remember I could back up my ENTIRE hard drive to a single ZIP-100 disk (parallel and external of course)! I'd just pop in my zip disk for my games (left room so I could add more later).


Pio, I remember ZIP 100 drives. Those things were awesome! They sure did die fast(in terms of retail). I think USB drives just straight out dominated on their release


----------



## Fatal05

939 was the first socket I used in a custom build, which was back in '05. Back when the Venice cores were the shizz, and dual core processors were a rarity.

Kind of wished I didn't pawn it off, but oh well, I needed the money.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

My first computer was a Pentium 2 400MHz with 64MB PC66 and 10GB Maxtor HDD also 4MB Matrox video card.


----------



## nategr8ns

my first computer had either a 4gb (5.25in







) or a 10gb harddrive. I can't remember any of the other specs though! (can't blame me though, I was only 3







)

people don't believe that I put a computer together when I was three. This just goes to show that it really isn't as hard as it sounds! (people also don't believe that I made cappuccino and other espresso drinks when I was 2.5, but thats another story







)


----------



## boonie2

mid 1980s series "TANDY 1000"







hand me down from my dad


----------



## vwgti

My first was a 386 with windows 3.1. A whole 500mb hard drive, and pleanty of dos games to play aboutwith.


----------



## nategr8ns

mine was win95 (on the 4gb or 10gb hdd, can't remember which)


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


don't worry, if she anything like mine. We are pretty darn safe. I get a blank stare when I take about computers with mine......I mean it's like looking into an vast empty void of "I really don't care"










Mine gives me the glazed over look because she just does not get it. When it was time for her to buy a new computer, she told me to go on Dell and find her what she needed.

As to thlnk3r's question:

The first PC that I used was the family's 80286. It came with an expansive 10 MB hard drive. I also used an Amiga 500, which I used far more often, and it only had a pair of floppy drives, no hard drive. That had some lofty RAM let me tell you, I could hardly believe Commadore had the stones to put 2 MB it in!

The first PC that was just mine was an 80486, which I received when the family PC became an Intel Pentium I. I have no clue what the specs were.

The first PC I purchased was a 900 T-Bird. The rest, is history.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


she told me to go on Dell and find her what she needed.


Dem's fight'in words!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Update on audio stutters:

I opened up the machine and switched the SATA ports for the HDDs.

I had some more stutters, so evidently the reason isn't hardware-related. At least not in terms of the SATA controller on the board.

I researched audio stutters in WinAmp (as this is where the symptoms are most pronounced; it happens in games, as well, but it isn't as bad). I reconfigured some plugins for WinAmp and am now using some a new DSP (iZotope Ozone Free) as well as reinstalled my FLAC decoder plugin.

So far, so good! No stutters so far.







Not only that, but the iZotope Ozone DSP has added an awesome new dimension to my music listening experience.







If you like listening to your music on WinAmp, I wholeheartedly recommend this amazing DSP.









Will update later. Here's Joe hoping for the best!


----------



## froggy1986

My very first computer I owned was a commadore 64. I sure do miss that thing. It had suddenly stopped working one day and so my parents put it in a box and there it sat untill about 2 years ago when they gave it back to me. Pio and I couldn't get it to turn on still so I figured wth I might was well take it apart and look how diff it is from newer pc's. I searched and searched for anything that could be wrong. Finally I seen that there was a blown fuse. Pio didn't think it was worth it to replace the fuse so it sat in a corner for about a year untill HE finally threw it away







. I still have almost all my games and discs from it I think. I sure miss that thing.

After that I owned a couple other REALLY old comps. Like the ones with the turbo button on the case and ya gotta go through DOS to start windows. I don't know the specs on either of them because that was WAY before I cared about the guts of my computers. I am sure pio knows them though because my parents also were "kind" enough to give those to us when we got the commadore. All I remember from those 2 were one thing a peice. The first one, thats how I learned to type. It had a really fun typing tutor game that I used to play all the time, till I got bored of it. Then I got the second one which had "Where In The World Is Carmen Sandiago". To this day, thats still gotta be one of my all time fav games growing up. I don't know why either but I loved that dumb thing. It was the only reason I still wanted that computer.

Then I got with pio and started learning more and more about computers, and I am still learning a bunch. He refused to let me keep any of my "ancient" machines though because " the ones we have now are SO much better". Oh well though I guess.


----------



## nategr8ns

I like ancient computers, and ancient cars







(what can I say? I'm a guy!)


----------



## vwgti

Alright guys Im looking into a am2 setup, already decided on the ram and mobo, but am undecided on the processor. I was looking at the 5000+be what you guys think? Will the cut in cache over my opty make it worse than what I have?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Update: I've been testing my system for the last several hours (more than six hours now). The audio stutters have been virtually eliminated. Only once or twice in the last four hours; I've been playing music through WinAmp all that time and those are all the stutters I've detected.

I've also been testing various other WinAmp goodies. I found that the iZotope Ozone Free DSP I was testing earlier was crashing WinAmp; I found another DSP, Stereo Tool 3.03, and so far this has been completely bulletproof. No problems to report for the last several hours.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vwgti*


Alright guys Im looking into a am2 setup, already decided on the ram and mobo, but am undecided on the processor. I was looking at the 5000+be what you guys think? Will the cut in cache over my opty make it worse than what I have?


I'd think the cache deficiency would be mitigated by the greater CPU speed potential of the Brisbane (it IS a Brisbane, isn't it?). CPU speed is king when it comes to K8s, as the saying goes.


----------



## vwgti

Thanks joe thats what I was thinking also. Im looking at with the board ram and cpu 275 shipped. I don't see the need for phenom for my uses, as I couldn't see me utilizing four cores.

Glad to hear you've finally hit the nail in the head over your audio problem. Im sure that was a bit tedious, but well worth it in the end.


----------



## froggy1986

Glad to see ya got all your problems worked out so far Joe. Now just if pio could get his problems all figured out with some of the spare computers we are trying to sell for rent..lol


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Thanks, froggy.









Hope you guys have a couple of good bites.


----------



## nategr8ns

vwgti, I don't think that AM2 rig is going to be a huge improvement from your opty 170 rig. If you're keen on AMD, wait for their next big thing (forget the codename, somebody posted it in here a little while ago)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


vwgti, I don't think that AM2 rig is going to be a huge improvement from your opty 170 rig. If you're keen on AMD, wait for their next big thing (forget the codename, somebody posted it in here a little while ago)


I believe you're referring to *Bulldozer*.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I've also been testing various other WinAmp goodies. I found that the iZotope Ozone Free DSP I was testing earlier was crashing WinAmp; I found another DSP, Stereo Tool 3.03, and so far this has been completely bulletproof. No problems to report for the last several hours.

Joe, glad you got that figured out! Kind of strange though that you weren't noticing these problems until after the Seagate HD install









Froggy, do you remember the classic game Oregon Trail? That was played many times on an Apple IIe system


----------



## vwgti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


vwgti, I don't think that AM2 rig is going to be a huge improvement from your opty 170 rig. If you're keen on AMD, wait for their next big thing (forget the codename, somebody posted it in here a little while ago)


Well its not so much for the improvement rather than having some fun. I was looking into the dfi dk 790fx board, so there will be plenty fun learning a new bios with loads of tweaks to keep me busy for a while. Im just bored with what I have now, as there is nothing new to it I can do. And for $275 shipped for a board ram and processor to keep me occupied while I wait for the next big thing, is money well spent.


----------



## thlnk3r

Vwgti, I can't remember exactly but there was someone a few weeks ago that got a single core AM2 processor up to 3Ghz+. It might of been the Sempron LE-1150...

Good luck with your build


----------



## boonie2

got my 939 / 4000+ San Deigo to 3.0









GL VWgti


----------



## vwgti

Thanks guys, well I will betting the 5000+ be, its a Brisbane, so Im hoping for atleast 3.0 maybe more. Ill keep you all posted when I get all the bits in.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
got my 939 / 4000+ San Deigo to 3.0









Boonie, woohoo congrats









Do you have screenshots of stability tests including CPU-Z?

Guys,

I'm looking to sell my *GeCube 3850 512MB OC Edition*(700/850) (PCI-E) video card. The going price is *$105* shipped. AS5 has been applied as well. I thought I'd ask in here first before I went to the For Sale section.

3DMark06 Score: http://service.futuremark.com/compare?3dm06=5182259
Temps: 43-48 IDLE / 50-55 while Gaming (Room ambient between 74-78F)

If anyone is interested please PM me.


----------



## vwgti

Well think3r if it was the 3870 Id jump right on it, as Im looking to get rid of my 8800gt and going ati. As the board Im looking to get is tri fire capable.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vwgti* 
Well think3r if it was the 3870 Id jump right on it, as Im looking to get rid of my 8800gt and going ati. As the board Im looking to get is tri fire capable.

Vwgti, no problem! Are you seriously planning on going with three video cards? That should be very impressive


----------



## GuardianOdin

any one have an extra Opty 165 or 170 they don't need? I have a feeling I may need one if I can not solve my issue.


----------



## vwgti

Well when I get my new setup, I will be looking to trade my naked opty 170 for another dual core 939 cpu that will do 2.5. As my buddy needs a computer, but hes no overclocker so I dont want him to get opty.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vwgti* 
Well when I get my new setup, I will be looking to trade my naked opty 170 for another dual core 939 cpu that will do 2.5. As my buddy needs a computer, but hes no overclocker so I dont want him to get opty.

Hmm..neked. I wonder if I'll have and issue with my Big Typhoon and that naked Opty.


----------



## vwgti

Well if the typhoon bolts down then there wont be a issue. But if its clamp on, you'll have to remove the retention bracket and file the feet on the backside down some.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vwgti* 
Well if the typhoon bolts down then there wont be a issue. But if its clamp on, you'll have to remove the retention bracket and file the feet on the backside down some.

It bolts down. I'm worried about it being on it's side becuase of the weight. The Typhoon is a smidgen heavy.


----------



## vwgti

Well I ran my tuniq tower for over a year without a issue, I screwed it down so hard that the h-bracket retention thingy was a banana afterwards. I idled the same as I do on water, but loaded a good bit higher.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vwgti* 
Well I ran my tuniq tower for over a year without a issue, I screwed it down so hard that the h-bracket retention thingy was a banana afterwards. I idled the same as I do on water, but loaded a good bit higher.

lol, then I shouldn't worry. I like bananas.


----------



## vwgti

So yeah, Ill be purchasing the processor and ram this week, and the mobo next. If you are still in need of it then, well work something out.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vwgti* 
So yeah, Ill be purchasing the processor and ram this week, and the mobo next. If you are still in need of it then, well work something out.

ok,shoot me a PM when your ready. I'll have to see what my budget is at the time.


----------



## vwgti

Will do G.O and as I stated, if you happen to have another dual core s939 chip that will do 2.5, then Ill do a straight trade.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vwgti*


Will do G.O and as I stated, if you happen to have another dual core s939 chip that will do 2.5, then Ill do a straight trade.


My current Opty will run 2.5 all day with no issues. It's when I get to 3Ghz Plus that these problems have been starting. I'm still not sure if it is in fact the Opty. I'll be running some test Wednesday and Thursday to see what actually happening.


----------



## vwgti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


My current Opty will run 2.5 all day with no issues. It's when I get to 3Ghz Plus that these problems have been starting. I'm still not sure if it is in fact the Opty. I'll be running some test Wednesday and Thursday to see what actually happening.


Well be sure to us all posted, If you end up not needing this opty, I would prefer someone from our club to adopt her. She has done me very well, for all Ill be sad to see her go, I know it will be to a good overclocking home


----------



## GuardianOdin

I'll be posting my results either Thursday night or Friday morning....depends on when I fall asleep.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


any one have an extra Opty 165 or 170 they don't need? I have a feeling I may need one if I can not solve my issue.


G.O., not to scupper any plans you and veedub have already made, but I've also got a selection of Optys on hand. I don't know how high these ladies can go, though, so the fun part will be finding out the max frequency they have in them. If plans between you and veedub fall through (and only IF they do), please know you've got me as Option #2.









(As an aside, I have a few chips from different steppings, so you can have your choice to some degree.







)

I ran a Big Typhoon for a very long time in my sig rig (which has a naked Opty in it). Only because it's not easy to use the fans I favor (120mm x 38mm) on a BT have I changed over to the SI-128SE. But a bolt-down HSF on a naked chip is a beautiful, effective combo. Someday I'll run the Big Typhoon on a naked Opteron again, once I've modded it to accept the fat fans I favor.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


G.O., not to scupper any plans you and veedub have already made, but I've also got a selection of Optys on hand. I don't know how high these ladies can go, though, so the fun part will be finding out the max frequency they have in them. If plans between you and veedub fall through (and only IF they do), please know you've got me as Option #2.









(As an aside, I have a few chips from different steppings, so you can have your choice to some degree.







)

I ran a Big Typhoon for a very long time in my sig rig (which has a naked Opty in it). Only because it's not easy to use the fans I favor (120mm x 38mm) on a BT have I changed over to the SI-128SE. But a bolt-down HSF on a naked chip is a beautiful, effective combo. Someday I'll run the Big Typhoon on a naked Opteron again, once I've modded it to accept the fat fans I favor.










Which Opty's do you have? I may need more than one, remember I'm building that rig for my girlfriend. I'm a dual core would be better than the 3500 2.2Ghz single core I have.

Nice see the weight of the BT wasn't damaging. I am hoping my Opty is ok and it's just a software issue.

*EDIT:* just wanted to let the club members know. I have some socket 754 and one socket 939 single cores I might be giving away. Might have a little contest for them. This will only be for club members thou.
*
EDIT TWO:* How are you going to Mod the BT Joe?


----------



## nategr8ns

you got any boards for those? AMD-folding pharm here I come







(mom would kill me if I started getting packages though







) (mom would kill me if I started increasing the electrical bill too







)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Which Opty's do you have? I may need more than one, remember I'm building that rig for my girlfriend. I'm a dual core would be better than the 3500 2.2Ghz single core I have.

Nice see the weight of the BT wasn't damaging. I am hoping my Opty is ok and it's just a software issue.


I have a couple of 165s and a whole mess of 170s, plus one CCBWE 175. The 175 might be donated to my best friend, whose rig will not be OCed at all. He already has my original S939 CPU, a San Diego 3700+. But I've not decided which CPU he'll be receiving from me (I can also give him an X2 3800+ Manchester, from my old Biostar office machine).

One 165 is a CCBBE 0615, if I'm not mistaken; I forget the stepping on the other 165. I've got multiple 170 LCB9Es available, as well as a sealed-in-box CCBBE that I'm saving, as well as a LCBQE. I may have one more LCBQE that's waiting for some testing as well.

I seriously doubt that your Opteron is damaged, to be honest. More likely than not, it's probably just at the very edge of its performance potential. I'm curious, though: What makes you think that it might be suffering from problems? Perhaps we can help solve the issues here.







(Please forgive me if I've inconveniently forgotten already any issues you've recently brought to light here.)









nate: Who are you asking about motherboards? Me or G.O.? LOL

(I'm trying to pare down my collection a bit, actually.)


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


you got any boards for those? AMD-folding pharm here I come







(mom would kill me if I started getting packages though







) (mom would kill me if I started increasing the electrical bill too







)


Nope, no extra Mobo's but man I'm sure you/we could find plenty that no is using. Some of those old MSI or ASUS that had no OC ability would be good.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I have a couple of 165s and a whole mess of 170s, plus one CCBWE 175. The 175 might be donated to my best friend, whose rig will not be OCed at all. He already has my original S939 CPU, a San Diego 3700+. But I've not decided which CPU he'll be receiving from me (I can also give him an X2 3800+ Manchester, from my old Biostar office machine).

One 165 is a CCBBE 0615, if I'm not mistaken; I forget the stepping on the other 165. I've got multiple 170 LCB9Es available, as well as a sealed-in-box CCBBE that I'm saving, as well as a LCBQE. I may have one more LCBQE that's waiting for some testing as well.

I seriously doubt that your Opteron is damaged, to be honest. More likely than not, it's probably just at the very edge of its performance potential. I'm curious, though: What makes you think that it might be suffering from problems? Perhaps we can help solve the issues here.







(Please forgive me if I've inconveniently forgotten already any issues you've recently brought to light here.)









nate: Who are you asking about motherboards? Me or G.O.? LOL

(I'm trying to pare down my collection a bit, actually.)


The reason I think it may be damaged is when I run Orthos,OCCT or Prime95 one of the cores error while the other seems to keep running. I get a lot of FATAL ERROR 05 expected,04 something something. Really not sure at this point.... I'll get screen shots when I get home.


----------



## nategr8ns

GO the one with the giveaway coming up









Do you guys think its safe to run my old 3800+ (single core, 2.4ghz) without thermal paste? I'll use the opty's stock heatsink anyway. I want to check on my Ultra-D (still in closet) but I don't want to un-seat my HSF from my opty just yet (I don't have much thermalpaste lying around, just one more application)
no, you guys don't have to shouldn't send me any TIM this time


----------



## txtmstrjoe

@ G.O.: That's almost universally the case with a multi-core CPU: One core will tap out way sooner than the other. In fact, I've never seen a multi-core CPU have a simultaneous core failure during a stress test.

@ nate: If the stock HSF still has its thermal paste on it, then that's fine. Otherwise, you almost never ever run sans TIM.

Didn't I send you an almost-full tube of MX-2?







Don't tell me that's almost all gone now!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


GO the one with the giveaway coming up









Do you guys think its safe to run my old 3800+ (single core, 2.4ghz) without thermal paste? I'll use the opty's stock heatsink anyway. I want to check on my Ultra-D (still in closet) but I don't want to un-seat my HSF from my opty just yet (I don't have much thermalpaste lying around, just one more application)
no, you guys don't have to shouldn't send me any TIM this time










I *MAY* be having a contest. Still thinking about it.

Do NOT run any CPU without Thermal paste.


----------



## nategr8ns

dang








well I've got probably one more use out of it, maybe two if I'm lucky (I think, hard to tell how much is in there)

what the hey, I'll reseat my opty in there! (should I try taking the cpu out without cleaning the TIM off of it? Thats a good way to conserve TIM, and stop global warming!)


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


dang








well I've got probably one more use out of it, maybe two if I'm lucky (I think, hard to tell how much is in there)

what the hey, I'll reseat my opty in there! (should I try taking the cpu out without cleaning the TIM off of it? Thats a good way to conserve TIM, and stop global warming!)


Dude,give Joe and I your address. We'll both send ya a tube of Thermal Paste.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

LOL I already have his address.









I'm a bit baffled, though, as I thought that MX-2 tube was mostly full. I only used the stuff twice or three times at most.







How much do you put on there, nate?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


@ G.O.: That's almost universally the case with a multi-core CPU: One core will tap out way sooner than the other. In fact, I've never seen a multi-core CPU have a simultaneous core failure during a stress test.


So you're thinking it may not be damaged?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


LOL I already have his address.









I'm a bit baffled, though, as I thought that MX-2 tube was mostly full. I only used the stuff twice or three times at most.







How much do you put on there, nate?


hmm..yeah. You only need enough that would equal the size of uncooked rice. Give or take a smidgen.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Boonie, woohoo congrats









Do you have screenshots of stability tests including CPU-Z?

Guys,

I'm looking to sell my *GeCube 3850 512MB OC Edition*(700/850) (PCI-E) video card. The going price is *$105 *shipped. AS5 has been applied as well. I thought I'd ask in here first before I went to the For Sale section.

3DMark06 Score: http://service.futuremark.com/compare?3dm06=5182259
Temps: 43-48 IDLE / 50-55 while Gaming (Room ambient between 74-78F)

If anyone is interested please PM me.



yeah thats what i joined with







back when when i felt like the only person on the planet still running a single core


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


So you're thinking it may not be damaged?


Affirmative. These CPUs are very very resilient. Ask pio about the Opteron I sent him as part of a transaction we made. The thing had maybe twenty or so broken pins (I bought the chip from co-worker who discovered he didn't really have the stones to try and fix it; cheapest Opteron ever). I straightened all of those pins out, and I think it's hit upwards of 2.7GHz in froggy's setup.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


hmm..yeah. You only need enough that would equal the size of uncooked rice. Give or take a smidgen.


The man speaks the truth! Testify, brother!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Affirmative. These CPUs are very very resilient. Ask pio about the Opteron I sent him as part of a transaction we made. The thing had maybe twenty or so broken pins (I bought the chip from co-worker who discovered he didn't really have the stones to try and fix it; cheapest Opteron ever). I straightened all of those pins out, and I think it's hit upwards of 2.7GHz in froggy's setup.









The man speaks the truth! Testify, brother!











Dang! I think I had 1 bent pin when I took it out the first time to reseat the heatsink. Bent it back with no issues.Bah!...I want to be at home testing the Opty right now!


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


LOL I already have his address.









I'm a bit baffled, though, as I thought that MX-2 tube was mostly full. I only used the stuff twice or three times at most.







How much do you put on there, nate?


Well I think too much... I probably didn't have to soak it under hot water, but it came out rather fast. I think its probably spilling out of the HS a bit...

yeah just looked in there, theres an awful lot spilled out around it


----------



## boonie2

Doooooooooooooooooooaaaaaaaahhhhhhhh


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Well I think too much... I probably didn't have to soak it under hot water, but it came out rather fast. I think its probably spilling out of the HS a bit...

yeah just looked in there, theres an awful lot spilled out around it










You're grounded mister...to your room! Until you learn to properly apply thermal paste


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Dang! I think I had 1 bent pin when I took it out the first time to reseat the heatsink. Bent it back with no issues.Bah!...I want to be at home testing the Opty right now!


LOL I know what you mean, man. Though it's getting hot at the apartment these days. I'm also in the midst of a case swap and redeployment of rigs.

The heat has never stopped me, though. So once I've got the testing rig situated in its new case (Enermax Uber Chakra), the battle between thlnk3r and txtmstrjoe's X2 3600+s will finally commence.









@ nate:







D'oh!


----------



## nategr8ns

@ GO, lol









wheres pio been lately?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


@ GO, lol









wheres pio been lately?


I believe pio's at work at this time of day.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


LOL I know what you mean, man. Though it's getting hot at the apartment these days. I'm also in the midst of a case swap and redeployment of rigs.

The heat has never stopped me, though. So once I've got the testing rig situated in its new case (Enermax Uber Chakra), the battle between thlnk3r and txtmstrjoe's X2 3600+s will finally commence.









@ nate:







D'oh!


yeah, Heat never bothered me until I was able to boot in and run apps at 3.1Ghz.......now I want it cold cold cold! I'll wear a dang winter coat if I have to







btw I love Enermax PSU's a very well built product.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


yeah, Heat never bothered me until I was able to boot in and run apps at 3.1Ghz.......now I want it cold cold cold! I'll wear a dang winter coat if I have to







btw I love Enermax PSU's a very well built product.


Hehe, me too. Though Scorpion is my avatar, I prefer Sub-Zero's weather much much more. The heat bothers ME more than it bothers my machine.







Though I probably have the hottest running rig in these parts.









I've never used an Enermax PSU. I'll have to look into that in the future.


----------



## nategr8ns

well pio, when you read this:
I need the 1.1 patch and the you know what that goes with it









got the patch


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


well pio, when you read this:
I need the 1.1 patch and the you know what that goes with it









got the patch










Haha. You're talking about GRID.









I'm not too keen about this game, actually. It looks great, but I find the physics to be a little goofy and unpredictable. I guess I just haven't gotten used to it yet.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Hehe, me too. Though Scorpion is my avatar, I prefer Sub-Zero's weather much much more. The heat bothers ME more than it bothers my machine.







Though I probably have the hottest running rig in these parts.









I've never used an Enermax PSU. I'll have to look into that in the future.









I had the 460Watt PSU they offered. Running 42 amps! I gave it to my best friend when he needed to upgrade his vidcard a number of months back. I went and bought the Ultra 600Watt to replace it. BTW his rig is much more stable now. He's really not into computers like us and was amazed that a PSU could do that.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Haha. You're talking about GRID.









I'm not too keen about this game, actually. It looks great, but I find the physics to be a little goofy and unpredictable. I guess I just haven't gotten used to it yet.

I am, but I got the "you know what" just took a little searching









the game could use some more car customization, but I like the physics. But I guess I have been playing NFS lately...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

LOL That Ultra PSU is another hidden treasure, isn't it? Mine has been bulletproof for about two years now.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
LOL That Ultra PSU is another hidden treasure, isn't it? Mine has been bulletproof for about two years now.









I'm digg'in so far. No shutters or glitchyness.


----------



## nategr8ns

woohoo xfinity!

I just found the first in-game vinyl I actually recognize from real life: during the installation slide show for GRID, the SPEED (tv channel) vinyl on a blue mustang (possibly cobra).
Quick poll! Are you an import (japanese), muscle (american), or european kind of guy?
is my definition of import correct?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

nate, what is this "you know what"?









FYI, since thlnk3r posted that his 3850 is being offered to S939ers first, I thought I'd do the same for some of my spares as well.









Let's see...

DFI LANParty UT nF4 Ultra-D = $80.00 (negotiable)
Abit AT8 32X = $70.00 (negotiable)
BFGTech G80 8800GTS (640MB) = $125.00
Sapphire Radeon X1950XT 256MB = $85.00 (negotiable)

If anything catches your fancy, just let me know via PM.


----------



## thlnk3r

Just to let everyone know, my "golden chip" LCBQE was actually from Joe's collection so he might actually have another one. Just a little FYI









Nate, I've ran a few processors without thermal compound and everything was all good but the coolers I used were all lapped. A stock cooler probably wouldn't survive without thermal compound. Only way to find out is to test it yourself. The worse that could happen is a hard lock. I'm guessing around 70-75C you'll experience the magic









EDIT: I'm also selling a DFI nForce 3 board for a ultra low price of $40 shipped
(dfi lanparty ut nf3 ultra d)


----------



## GuardianOdin

American muscle WFT! Dodge and Ford

67GT 500
2007 Mustang Boss
68 Dodge Charger
HemiCuda


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Just to let everyone know, my "golden chip" LCBQE was actually from Joe's collection so he might actually have another one. Just a little FYI









Nate, I've ran a few processors without thermal compound and everything was all good but the coolers I used were all lapped. A stock cooler probably wouldn't survive without thermal compound. Only way to find out is to test it yourself. The worse that could happen is a hard lock. I'm guessing around 70-75C you'll experience the magic









EDIT: I'm also selling a DFI nForce 3 board for a ultra low price of $40 shipped
(dfi lanparty ut nf3 ultra d)

Magic of hardlock....been there!









Joe may have another golden chip?!?!?!?!.....cough cough hey Joe!....hows it going buddy


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Euro for me.









Lamborghini
Lotus
Mercedes-Benz (AMG)
Audi (including that incredibly lust-worthy R8)
and vintage (up to mid-1980s) Ferrari (including that beautiful beast, the F40).

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Magic of hardlock....been there!









Joe may have another golden chip?!?!?!?!.....cough cough hey Joe!....hows it going buddy









Pffft. I'll kill myself if anybody but me gets his hands on a golden Opteron again!









By the way, if you hear about a home invasion robbery at thlnk3r's place, and the only thing missing is an Opteron 170, I didn't do it.

Okay?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Euro for me.









Lamborghini
Lotus
Mercedes-Benz (AMG)
Audi (including that incredibly lust-worthy R8)
and vintage (up to mid-1980s) Ferrari (including that beautiful beast, the F40).

Pffft. I'll kill myself if anybody but me gets his hands on a golden Opteron again!









By the way, if you hear about a home invasion robbery at thlnk3r's place, and the only thing missing is an Opteron 170, I didn't do it.

Okay?


















and I wasn't there either....I swear Officer


----------



## nategr8ns

For Muscle, I like the newer dodge vipers (05+), 1960s buicks and oldsmobiles, ford GT is pretty nice, and old old old (20s-50s) fords







/
Import I'm pretty much Nissan







, that new GTR is crazy! (not the skyline)
Euro I'll have to go with Ferrari, Lotus, and BMW

I'm home from school tomorrow, anybody up for a GRID race? I can also do various games on Steam (CSS, HL2DM, TF2)
I'm going to be doing some more painting on my mouse if the weather dries up, and possibly testing out the Ultra-D with my 3800+ (going to have to either use weights or some twist-ties to hold down the cooler, no retention bracket -.-)


----------



## alexgheseger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Just to let everyone know, my "golden chip" LCBQE was actually from Joe's collection so he might actually have another one. Just a little FYI









Nate, I've ran a few processors without thermal compound and everything was all good but the coolers I used were all lapped. A stock cooler probably wouldn't survive without thermal compound. Only way to find out is to test it yourself. The worse that could happen is a hard lock. I'm guessing around 70-75C you'll experience the magic









EDIT: I'm also selling a DFI nForce 3 board for a ultra low price of $40 shipped 
(dfi lanparty ut nf3 ultra d)


Or Nate could use ketchup... it works just as well as the stock intel paste.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexgheseger*


Or Nate could use ketchup... it works just as well as the stock intel paste.


lol, I do like me some Katsup.


----------



## alexgheseger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


lol, I do like me some Katsup.


cough *click me* cough


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexgheseger*


cough *click me* cough


HAHA!!! I was wondering if anyone would find that. I looked and couldn't seem to...Oh the things that people try when bored or desprite.


----------



## boonie2

will mustard work just as good?


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


will mustard work just as good?


 or does it have to be red?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexgheseger*


cough *click me* cough


you sir are invited to my next BBQ!


----------



## alexgheseger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


will mustard work just as good?


Surprisingly enough, no. Empirically speaking, ketchup is indeed better than mustard.

I can't remember what the results i got were though, but IIRC mustard was 3-4 degrees higher than ketchup.

@ G.O.: careful, I may just take you up on that









I never did get the chance to test barbecue sauce though, but my predictions are that anything hickory would have an edge in the tests.


----------



## boonie2

nate , alex found your tube of mx


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexgheseger*


Surprisingly enough, no. Empirically speaking, ketchup is indeed better than mustard.

I can't remember what the results i got were though, i think mustard was 3-4 degrees higher than ketchup.


I would now test different brands of ketchup.......ever notice mustard sounds like mouseturd?


----------



## nategr8ns

When I get a retention bracket from Joe, I will have to test the Heinz thermal paste









edit: I can't find results, checking page four (last one) now.
page four was the charm







(edit again, meh just for tx2 verse mx2)
I want to see it with AS5 now, as well as ketchup, mustard, pb, and nutella (such a waste of a delicacy!)


----------



## alexgheseger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


I would now test different brands of ketchup.......ever notice mustard sounds like mouseturd?


Way ahead of you. Heinz is the best because it is the least watery. Accept no imitations!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexgheseger*


Way ahead of you. Heinz is the best because it is the least watery. Accept no imitations!


hmmm.....maybe test in the watercool set-up.....maybe not


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexgheseger*


Way ahead of you. Heinz is the best because it is the least watery. Accept no imitations!










or it didnt happen


----------



## boonie2

time for the "drip test"


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*









or it didnt happen










the red stuff on the heatsink is proof enough for me.


----------



## boonie2

aaaaahhhhhhhhhhh but is it REALLY HEINZ


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Affirmative. These CPUs are very very resilient. Ask pio about the Opteron I sent him as part of a transaction we made. The thing had maybe twenty or so broken pins (I bought the chip from co-worker who discovered he didn't really have the stones to try and fix it; cheapest Opteron ever). I straightened all of those pins out, and I think it's hit upwards of 2.7GHz in froggy's setup.
 








The man speaks the truth! Testify, brother!










Well that particular chip is alive and kicking in Froggy's rig...currently doing 2.8GHz. We could PROBABLY squeeze a little more out of her, but neither of us can get that Big Typhoon mounted properly







. I know that's the problem there.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


@ GO, lol









wheres pio been lately?


I was sleepin. Been sick the last few days, and I'm finally starting to get over it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


well pio, when you read this:
I need the 1.1 patch and the you know what that goes with it









got the patch










Yes nate...I've got the patch. I can send it to you via Xfire if you'd like, unless you've already found it by now.


----------



## nategr8ns

yeah I've found it, thanks anyway. Sorry to hear that, I hate getting sick...


----------



## GuardianOdin

I'll be honest and say I'd like a chip that hasn't really been used by anyone. I want to be the first to push it to the heights of 3ghz and beyond!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
I'll be honest and say I'd like a chip that hasn't really been used by anyone. I want to be the first to push it to the heights of 3ghz and beyond!

I've got one, if you want it badly enough.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I've got one, if you want it badly enough.










how much?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

OEM or retail? Opty 170 or 165?


----------



## Anqt31

Glad your feelin better Pioneer


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


OEM or retail? Opty 170 or 165?


I guess either. I have a spare heatsink from the Opty in my rig now and I have the lapped BT. I'm thinking the Opty 170 becuase of the 10 multiplier, but I know my Mobo can reach 387-389 on the HT.....confused!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Aye, I second that Anqt's sentiments as well, pio.







Getting sick ain't no fun, for sure.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Oh and Pioneer man, ya got to sweat it out. Get a heat blanket and heating pad.







Glad your feeling better.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

G.O., how does LCB9E 0704TPMW OEM sound to you?

PM for further details.


----------



## Anqt31

Hey guys, could you suggest a decent starting WC setup for my s939 rig?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


G.O., how does LCB9E 0704TPMW OEM sound to you?

PM for further details.










PM'ed


----------



## pioneerisloud

Thanks guys. I didn't have anything too serious...seems like a real bad head cold pretty much. Been taking some Alka Seltzer day and night gel caps and those helped a BUNCH.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


Hey guys, could you suggest a decent starting WC setup for my s939 rig?


I'd hit up veedub (vwgti) for watercooling expertise.


----------



## GuardianOdin

think I should go naked on the opty tonight?


----------



## vwgti

@ g.o go right ahead, it took me 2 mins to delid my opty, and the best thing I couldve done. I didnt even take precautions just took a case cutter and dove right in, but be sure not to cut too far in, a little at a time is where it is at.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vwgti*


@ g.o go right ahead, it took me 2 mins to delid my opty, and the best thing I couldve done. I didnt even take precautions just took a case cutter and dove right in, but be sure not to cut too far in, a little at a time is where it is at.


I have a brand new razor sitting on desk just itching to start cutting the edges. What sort of temp drops could I look forward to?


----------



## vwgti

Well I dropped 8c, but that was with my poorley sat ihs. I cant guarantee nothing, but youd deff see a 2-5c drop at the least. Again I guarantee nothing so Ill say 2c


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vwgti*


Well I dropped 8c, but that was with my poorley sat ihs. I cant guarantee nothing, but youd deff see a 2-5c drop at the least. Again I guarantee nothing so Ill say 2c










8c would be nice. Hmmm...I'm hoping for atleast 5c


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Naked chips are real men's chips.


----------



## alexgheseger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Naked chips are real men's chips.


















And here i thought extreme editions were real mens chips.

Anyone got the cajones to de-lid a QX6700? You know, with the soldered on IHS to boot?


----------



## Blitz6804

You know what would be really cool? If Joe donated that ATI-northbridged motherboard and a spiffy proc and thlnk3r donated that 3850 of his...

Barring that, I am getting anxious to get home. While I have internet here, I do not use my computer nearly enough and I am getting twitchy because I cannot play all the new games I have gotten. Not to mention I still cannot fix the TASER because I lack good thermal compound. Idiot me left it in the kitchen drawer.

All my dad has is Best Buy brand.

I am still waiting on him to have a free minute to help me mod the door. We are thinking a Dremel may cut the mustard (ketchup?) although advice would be nice. To refresh memories, I am planning to cut a hole into the side of my acrylic panel. Lowes did have a 90mm hole saw, but we could not justify paying $22 for one usage.


----------



## alexgheseger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


You know what would be really cool? If Joe donated that ATI-northbridged motherboard and a spiffy proc and thlnk3r donated that 3850 of his...

Barring that, I am getting anxious to get home. While I have internet here, I do not use my computer nearly enough and I am getting twitchy because I cannot play all the new games I have gotten. Not to mention I still cannot fix the TASER because I lack good thermal compound. Idiot me left it in the kitchen drawer.

All my dad has is Best Buy brand.

I am still waiting on him to have a free minute to help me mod the door. We are thinking a Dremel may cut the mustard (ketchup?) although advice would be nice. To refresh memories, I am planning to cut a hole into the side of my acrylic panel. Lowes did have a 90mm hole saw, but we could not justify paying $22 for one usage.


If you're very careful, a dremel will do the trick, problem is though that they tend to melt/scorch the acrylic if you get a little to excited. Got a jigsaw?


----------



## GuardianOdin

FireFox like us!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


You know what would be really cool? If Joe donated that ATI-northbridged motherboard and a spiffy proc and thlnk3r donated that 3850 of his...

Barring that, I am getting anxious to get home. While I have internet here, I do not use my computer nearly enough and I am getting twitchy because I cannot play all the new games I have gotten. Not to mention I still cannot fix the TASER because I lack good thermal compound. Idiot me left it in the kitchen drawer.

All my dad has is Best Buy brand.

I am still waiting on him to have a free minute to help me mod the door. We are thinking a Dremel may cut the mustard (ketchup?) although advice would be nice. To refresh memories, I am planning to cut a hole into the side of my acrylic panel. Lowes did have a 90mm hole saw, but we could not justify paying $22 for one usage.


Donate?

I wish I could just give y'all my spares, but I can't afford to. Not with fuel prices being what they are.









@ G.O.: Great find!


----------



## iandroo888

try looking on craigslist or ebay for hole saw.. may find one 4 90mm... 120mm (4.5") is hard... so i ended up buying a 4.5" hole saw from lowes. if you do decide to use a dremel, see if u can find a circle cutting attachment. works pretty well. if not, use a reinforced cutting disc and use a medium speed. depending on the acrylic u have or will get, u can just get a blowtorch to clear the edge. if u got the acrylic i got, then u gotta get a buffer and buff it shiny =D

currently working on a little "Add-on" on my project tuxedo, as well as working on my "submission" for the ocn case mod competition. will show you guys my project tuxedo addon when i get new fans in and rewired.

so whats been happening around here? get quieter without me or more enjoyable without me? noticed blitz doesnt talk much now.


----------



## thlnk3r

Ian, who made your Avatar for you? I forgot the name you mentioned. Looks awesome!

Alex, I cannot believe you used Ketchup...that is just sick!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Final update on my audio stutters (unless something else happens): No more stutters to report, amazingly. I'm using yet another WinAmp DSP plugin, the weirdly-named "You Wa Shock," but even running WinAmp naked (that is, sans DSPs) the stutters seem to have disappeared.

Summer time temps are creeping in. It's presently 30.4 degs C in my bedroom (YAY!), and under OCCT Blend test my cores are holding steady at 49 degs each. 18.6 degs over ambient at full load isn't too shabby...


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Ian, who made your Avatar for you? I forgot the name you mentioned. Looks awesome!

Alex, I cannot believe you used Ketchup...that is just sick!










DeX made it for me. He's a great graphics designer =P Thx for the comment

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Final update on my audio stutters (unless something else happens): No more stutters to report, amazingly. I'm using yet another WinAmp DSP plugin, the weirdly-named "You Wa Shock," but even running WinAmp naked (that is, sans DSPs) the stutters seem to have disappeared.

Summer time temps are creeping in. It's presently 30.4 degs C in my bedroom (YAY!), and under OCCT Blend test my cores are holding steady at 49 degs each. 18.6 degs over ambient at full load isn't too shabby...










i still have my opty downclocked. im waiting for my new fans before i overclock the fx-60 finally.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Ok, I'm naked. I took some pic's and I'll up load them later.Going to try some stress tests and OC


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Ok, I'm naked. I took some pic's and I'll up load them later.Going to try some stress tests and OC


Good luck!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Good luck!


Thanks, it took a bit to get the rig to load windows. It blue screening.Hope that isn't a bad sign.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Ok here are some pic's. I'm having to slowly up the oC again. I get blue screen if I try to boot in at the settings I had before.....


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Ok, I'm naked. I took some pic's and I'll up load them later.Going to try some stress tests and OC

oh please don't...

oh few, they weren't that bad







. Thats weird about your overclock settings...


----------



## GuardianOdin

well this what I'm getting only seconds into any of the test.

Quote:

[Wed Jun 18 08:11:55 2008]
FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0.5, expected less than 0.4
Hardware failure detected, consult stress.txt file.
Orthos

Quote:

Type: Blend - stress CPU and RAM Min: 8 Max: 4096 InPlace: No Mem: 1790 Time: 15
CPU: 2969MHz FSB: 194MHz [191MHz x 15.5 est.]
6/18/2008 8:14 AM
Launching 2 threads...
Using CPU #0
Beginning a continuous self-test to check your computer.
Press Stop to end this test.
Test 1, 4000 Lucas-Lehmer iterations of M19922945 using 1024K FFT length.
FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0.5, expected less than 0.4
Hardware failure detected, consult stress.txt file.
Torture Test ran 0 minutes 41 seconds - 1 errors, 0 warnings.
Execution halted.

Quote:

Using CPU #1
Beginning a continuous self-test to check your computer.
Press Stop to end this test.
Test 1, 4000 Lucas-Lehmer iterations of M19922945 using 1024K FFT length.
Torture Test ran 0 minutes 41 seconds - 0 errors, 0 warnings.
Execution halted.
OCCT

Quote:

Crashed l Code 4
It's got to be a bad chip. I can't test the temps becuase none of the tests will run long enough, but the volts are no different than before.


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
You know what would be really cool? If Joe donated that ATI-northbridged motherboard and a spiffy proc and thlnk3r donated that 3850 of his...

Barring that, I am getting anxious to get home. While I have internet here, I do not use my computer nearly enough and I am getting twitchy because I cannot play all the new games I have gotten. Not to mention I still cannot fix the TASER because I lack good thermal compound. Idiot me left it in the kitchen drawer.

All my dad has is Best Buy brand.

I am still waiting on him to have a free minute to help me mod the door. We are thinking a Dremel may cut the mustard (ketchup?) although advice would be nice. To refresh memories, I am planning to cut a hole into the side of my acrylic panel. *Lowes did have a 90mm hole saw, but we could not justify paying $22 for one usage.*


Harbor Freight man! They have an online store and B&M stores throughout the US.


----------



## Anqt31

> It's got to be a bad chip. I can't test the temps becuase none of the tests will run long enough, but the volts are no different than before.
> 
> 
> 
> Try messing w/ your HT settings. Then mess with your ram settings. That's what it took with my ~3Ghz OC
Click to expand...


----------



## thlnk3r

Guardian, drop everything to stock and run Orthos/OCCT again. Does it crash/fail? If not then I doubt anything is wrong with your 165. It's more than likely either an unstable overclock or some adjustments need to be made like the ones Anqt above suggested.

Those are my thoughts









Good luck bud!


----------



## nategr8ns

I bet it has something to do with summer heat?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

G.O., that error is usually due to insufficient VCore. That's odd if this indeed is the case, since I'm assuming the only change has been the removal of the IHS, yes?

Another possibility is the RAM. Double-check your RAM to see if both are firmly seated in their slots; you may have loosened them accidentally. Then use MemTest86+, just to rule the RAM out.

Hope this helps, G.O.!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Guardian, drop everything to stock and run Orthos/OCCT again. Does it crash/fail? If not then I doubt anything is wrong with your 165. It's more than likely either an unstable overclock or some adjustments need to be made like the ones Anqt above suggested.

Those are my thoughts









Good luck bud!

yep, ran fine at stock speeds. I'm checking and re-adjusting as needed

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
G.O., that error is usually due to insufficient VCore. That's odd if this indeed is the case, since I'm assuming the only change has been the removal of the IHS, yes?

Another possibility is the RAM. Double-check your RAM to see if both are firmly seated in their slots; you may have loosened them accidentally. Then use MemTest86+, just to rule the RAM out.

Hope this helps, G.O.!









Correct,the only change was the removal of the IHS. I figured it would have some issues booting up,but didn't think I'd have this much trouble. It's almost like I installed a new motherboard.

I checked the RAM and reseated just in case. Memtest ran for 2 hours 30 mins give or take a minute or two. This was at DDR530 speeds.

I have been able to run OCCT for about 5-6 minutes now. Which is better than the 10 seconds I was getting. Ok, back to the OC grid.

Thanks guys.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

June seems to be the month of misfortunes.

I guess I shouldn't have tempted the gods by declaring my system finally cured, but my previous nemesis, Event ID 51, reared its ugly head again before I went to bed. I've done a little bit of research on the subject, and as before it seems as if newer-generation Seagates and Maxtors (7200.11 and 7200.10 for Seagate) are quite prone to having these problems, especially with boards running varieties of nF4. Some Intel chipsets are also prone to exhibiting system slowdowns and, in the worst cases, total destruction of the file systems and the OS.

Needless to say, this is a very serious problem. Though I've got backup strategies in play, I don't want to deal with a hosed system. In my case, presently I'm getting horrible slowdowns, and the Event Viewer suggests that the trigger is any operation that requires heavy I/O activity to the HDD as well as when the system needs to use the page file. Disabling NCQ on the Seagates was not a cure, clearly. Reinstalling and/or updating the chipset drivers did nothing either, and I've now tried both the WinXP and the nF4 SATA controller drivers (no perceptible difference with either one) (installing updated chipset drivers necessitated a WinXP reactivation, incidentally).

Anybody got any suggestions?


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
June seems to be the month of misfortunes.

I guess I shouldn't have tempted the gods by declaring my system finally cured, but my previous nemesis, Event ID 51, reared its ugly head again before I went to bed. I've done a little bit of research on the subject, and as before it seems as if newer-generation Seagates and Maxtors (7200.11 and 7200.10 for Seagate) are quite prone to having these problems, especially with boards running varieties of nF4. Some Intel chipsets are also prone to exhibiting system slowdowns and, in the worst cases, total destruction of the file systems and the OS.

Needless to say, this is a very serious problem. Though I've got backup strategies in play, I don't want to deal with a hosed system. In my case, presently I'm getting horrible slowdowns, and the Event Viewer suggests that the trigger is any operation that requires heavy I/O activity to the HDD as well as when the system needs to use the page file. Disabling NCQ on the Seagates was not a cure, clearly. Reinstalling and/or updating the chipset drivers did nothing either, and I've now tried both the WinXP and the nF4 SATA controller drivers (no perceptible difference with either one) (installing updated chipset drivers necessitated a WinXP reactivation, incidentally).

Anybody got any suggestions?









Wow that's a tough one. You've tried everything I would've and then some. I'll try and see if I can come up with anything else though.


----------



## nategr8ns

RMA is all I can think of








will they replace it?


----------



## Iceman0803

Maybe a firmware update?


----------



## thlnk3r

Per Joe's email I suggested that he might want to try a different branded drive. Perhaps those model Seagates are not happy with his SATA controller. I also suggested that the chipset drivers may be at fault too? Swapping to another drive should be simple since I'm assuming he has Images already pre-made from Acronis.

Joe, try a clean install as well. Perhaps the image has some fault to it.

Good luck Joe! I hope we can get this resolved!


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Per Joe's email I suggested that he might want to try a different branded drive. Perhaps those model Seagates are not happy with his SATA controller. I also suggested that the chipset drivers may be at fault too? Swapping to another drive should be simple since I'm assuming he has Images already pre-made from Acronis.

Joe, try a clean install as well. Perhaps the image has some fault to it.

Good luck Joe! I hope we can get this resolved!

That was going to be my next suggestion.









My other idea is to try a fresh install instead of using an image. Other than that.....I got nothin'


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Thanks, Iceman and thlnk3r and nate.









I'll likely try a Hitachi HDD from thlnk3r first before anything else.

Who knew a "simple" HDD cloning would be so dramatic?


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Thanks, Iceman and thlnk3r and nate.









I'll likely try a Hitachi HDD from thlnk3r first before anything else.

Who knew a "simple" HDD cloning would be so dramatic?










No problem.







Keep us posted. I'm interested to see what the issue may be (as I'm sure you are







)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Well, during my lunch break from work, I went home with a theory to test. (I'm one of those lucky sods whose home is close to my job.) I've been analyzing this problem a bit, and decided to approach things from another angle: Since the new hardware (the Seagate HDDs) seem healthy in most other respects (other than their propensity to generate the Event ID 51 paging fault errors), maybe the problem is actually an incompatibility with a particular piece of software which triggers the Event IDs.

Accordingly, I wanted to test a few programs that I run that I'm sure use heavy HDD I/O access. First on the list was Corel WinDVD 9. I set it to read a DVD ripped into the HDD, and bam! the Event ID 51s started. The system slowed to a crawl, the HDD access LED was on constantly, and the movie stuttered and stalled before resuming playback. I shut the program down, reconfigured one of the HDDs (the one with the page file partition) to re-enable SATA Gen 2 throughput (WinXP, apparently, throttles down the SATA connection speed/type when there are multiple I/O access misses, as there evidently are during heavy page fault usage), and restarted the system.

I then used another DVD media player, VLC, and to my astonishment there were absolutely no problems with playback.

I'm hopeful that I've cracked the pattern to solving this personal mystery.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Please forgive the double post, but G.O.'s escapades with OCCT's error codes made me seek out some answers.

OCCT's error codes apparently translate thus:

Code 1 : thread stopped because another thread stopped
Code 2 : stop by user
Code 3 : memory error
Code 4 : calculation error
Source.

Hope this helps!


----------



## Anqt31

So, Calculation error... that means like the cpu can't accurately finish a calculation, right?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Anqt31* 
So, Calculation error... that means like the cpu can't accurately finish a calculation, right?

Well, I'd say that instead of saying it "can't," the processor simply "didn't" perform its math correctly.

The difference, of course, is the speed at which the calculations are being made, as well as the amount of calculations. The faster the processor works, the more calculations it's making within a nominal unit of time. If the CPU works slower, it can perform any given calculation correctly; make it run faster than it can, it will do the math incorrectly.

If I may, it's like this analogy: Imagine a sprinter on a track. She has a top speed limit defined by her athletic ability, the track surface, wind resistance, and all other possible factors. The point is, she has a limit to the speed she can run. If she tries to run faster than this limit, well, she'll trip and fall...

This is similar to what happens to a CPU doing rapid mathematics. If it tries to do things faster than what its limit is, it will make a mistake during the calculations; the stress test program will then report a calculation error.


----------



## Anqt31

Thanks, that clears it up. (Nice analogy, I ran the 400M in high school track)


----------



## thlnk3r

Everyone, just spoke with Joe and apparently the early Seagate 7200.11 drives were shipped with bad firmware. The negative indication was the drives were displaying as 8MB cache drives as oppose to 32MB of cache. For more helpful details check out this dslreports.com link: http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r195...h-bad-firmware


----------



## boonie2

Hi guys and ladies , I have a quick question , just installed another motherboard , CPU cooler , and G_SKILLS .......... Is it against the rules here to offer the components I replaced for sale here before I list them in the for sale section ?


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


Hi guys and ladies , I have a quick question , just installed another motherboard , CPU cooler , and G_SKILLS .......... Is it against the rules here to offer the components I replaced for sale here before I list them in the for sale section ?


it is not









I'm curious, but what programs do you guys (joe in particular) use to test for HDD errors? I think one of mine may be going bad...









jeez boonie, you get all the cool toys to play with


----------



## boonie2

I use Seatools to test my seagate HDD - I thank the tax man for the upgrades , and Karen for letting me , and alittle luck on Ebay buying and selling


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Good programs I use for benching and testing HDDs: 
HDTach

Diskeeper

SeaTools (for Seagate and recent Maxtor HDDs)

Data Lifeguard (for Western Digital HDDs)

HD Tune
I've used every one of these tools at one time or another. They're all a good part of your system maintenance toolbox.









Hope this helps!


----------



## vwgti

Hmm wheres guardian, Im getting a tad worried now. Hope all is well G.O.


----------



## nategr8ns

http://www.overclock.net/album.php?albumid=183

How do these HDTune benchies look? They look a tad slow to me, but I don't have anything to compare them to.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Just to have a basis for comparison, nate, here are my hard drives.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vwgti*


Hmm wheres guardian, Im getting a tad worried now. Hope all is well G.O.


I fell asleep...sorry.









I disassembled the entire rig, cleaned it and reseated the CPU once more. I took the yellow DFI bracket completely off except for the back behind the motherboard. Now I have no issue with the heatsink firmly touching the CPU.

Now before I took the rig apart. I was able to run OCCT for 20 minutes and never exceeded 58c at 2.9Ghz ...then it crashed. I'm up and running again and am starting the process over again. I will post back later.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I also use Seatools. I even use it on Western Digital HDD's (I don't own any newish HDD's...my sig is the newest we've got). And it has yet to fail me yet.

GO:
Sounds to me like you've pretty much gotta start your overclock all over again. That sux







. Good luck on that







.

boonie:
I don't see any reason why you couldn't offer your old 939 equipment up for sale here. You've got MORE than enough rep count, no? And 99% of us here in the club would trust you to be a good trader. I see no problem with it either.

This sux....stuff's going up for sale, joe's got a deal for me, and we've got no freakin money!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Ok, I doing quick OCCT runs just to get a feel for where I'm at. Before I could manage to get past a few seconds....if I was lucky maybe 4-5 minutes. What I am surprised at so far is I haven't had to touch the Vcore yet and the temps are much better since I took the top of the CPU.Here are some pic's.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Wow, those are some excellent temps! Keep it up! I'm jealous







.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


I'm curious, but what programs do you guys (joe in particular) use to test for HDD errors? I think one of mine may be going bad...










Nate, I mainly use Quicktech Pro for memory diagnostics and hard drive surface scans. I use this software at home and at work.

Good luck


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Wow, those are some excellent temps! Keep it up! I'm jealous







.


Thanks pioneer, Here is the second test at 2.8Ghz


----------



## txtmstrjoe

G.O., any idea what your ambients are?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
G.O., any idea what your ambients are?









I'd have say it is roughly 72-75 Fahrenheit in the house. We have the AC running so the temps fluctuate. I know I set the AC to kick on at 72.

Ok here are the results for 2.9


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hehe, we should get more "man points" for running naked, eh G.O.?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Hehe, we should get more "man points" for running naked, eh G.O.?









I would have to agree good sir







I was running 55-60c before at 2.9Ghz. I would say that's a good drop in temps. Getting ready to run a 3Ghz OCCT test. Wish me luck!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

You got all of it, good buddy!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Alright you guys...I'm tempted to start stripping right now.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

That sounds so WRONG, pio.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


That sounds so WRONG, pio.










lol

Ok guys. The 3Ghz run in OCCT. I will run it longer later,but I have to use the PC for awhile.


----------



## terraprime

wow i cant believe you have to use 1.54vcore to stable out. mine only needed 1.4v with stock cooler....hell i wonder if i could get higher on mine with a good cooler like urs G.O. ...lol


----------



## pioneerisloud

Woot! Page 462 aka Page "A"! Can anybody guess where that came from?


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Woot! Page 462 aka Page "A"! Can anybody guess where that came from?


I'm gonna go with skt 462 aka skt "A"


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Just to have a basis for comparison, nate, here are my hard drives.









oh gosh, my drives fail compared to that









Quote:


Originally Posted by *terraprime* 
wow i cant believe you have to use 1.54vcore to stable out. mine only needed 1.4v with stock cooler....hell i wonder if i could get higher on mine with a good cooler like urs G.O. ...lol

I know, thats a lot of VCore









Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Woot! Page 462 aka Page "A"! Can anybody guess where that came from?

the socket


----------



## GuardianOdin

still needs some fine tuning at 3Ghz


----------



## txtmstrjoe

LOL I'm wondering now about whether I should just go and crank up the VCore on my sig rig and get a stable 3.0 out of my naked lady.









Those temps aren't bad at all for air cooling a 3.0GHz Opty, G.O.!


----------



## Anqt31

Nice OC, I was looking at a Opteron 180, should I upgrade from my x2 4200+ or is it worth it?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Anqt31* 
Nice OC, I was looking at a Opteron 180, should I upgrade from my x2 4200+ or is it worth it?

Personally, I wouldn't do it unless you just want to OC another chip, or if the Opteron 180 is going for a ridiculously low price.







2.8GHz from any K8 is a very good speed, and there's no guarantee whatsoever the Opty will top 2.8GHz.

Do you happen to know what the stepping on the Opteron 180 is?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
LOL I'm wondering now about whether I should just go and crank up the VCore on my sig rig and get a stable 3.0 out of my naked lady.









Those temps aren't bad at all for air cooling a 3.0GHz Opty, G.O.!









Thanks Joe, I will attempting an 6-8 hour stability test in OCCT. I should say that I added a high speed 120mm fan to the BT and adjusted the case flow. I move the HDD to bottom of the case because they do not get all that hot to begin with. So now the intake 120mm is pushing nice open air directly to the Chipset and the CPU. To gain stability to to the 3Ghz with a HT of 376 I increased the Chipset voltage to 1.30v from 1.20v

I will agree with all that case flow is very important in air cooled rigs. I'll post back later with a 6-8hour run if it can do it.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Anqt31* 
Nice OC, I was looking at a Opteron 180, should I upgrade from my x2 4200+ or is it worth it?

Thanks Anqt. I will say I agree with Joe, However it never hurts to have a spare CPU.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Sweet, G.O.

That reminds me to resume my series on fans pretty soon. Perhaps once I permanently defeat this nemesis known as Event ID 51 plaguing my system.









What fan are you now using on the Big Typhoon, G.O.?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
To gain stability to to the 3Ghz with a HT of 376 I increased the Chipset voltage to 1.30v from 1.20v

Guardian, what are your chipset temperatures typically at when running Orthos?

Good luck


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Sweet, G.O.

That reminds me to resume my series on fans pretty soon. Perhaps once I permanently defeat this nemesis known as Event ID 51 plaguing my system.









What fan are you now using on the Big Typhoon, G.O.?

This one ThermalTake Smart Blue 120mm LED Case Fan Blue

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Guardian, what are your chipset temperatures typically at when running Orthos?

Good luck









Good question,I'll have to check when running Orthos. Think it will make a difference if I run Orthos instead of OCCT for this longer run?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hehe

I'm a fan of that fan.









Am giving mine away to Blitz.

Which reminds me just how big a dummy I am.









(Because I've been forgetting to send the fans away to him! They're in a box in my car's trunk, ready to go! He probably hates me now...)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Good question,I'll have to check when running Orthos. Think it will make a difference if I run Orthos instead of OCCT for this longer run?

Guardian, you'll probably notice a temp difference within 15-20mins after running Orthos. The results are pretty quick









Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

If testing for OCed stability, I'd say that if you run OCCT for a long-enough time it would equal a 24-hour Orthos/Prime95 run. There's an equivalency formula at work; unfortunately, I presently cannot remember what that equivalency formula is.

If you're reasonably confident of your OC's basic stability, though, I still say S&M v.1.9.1 is THE only game in town when it comes to establishing whether or not your OC is stable. If your rig passes this test on "long" setting, it's certifiably stable.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Hehe

I'm a fan of that fan.









Am giving mine away to Blitz.

Which reminds me just how big a dummy I am.









(Because I've been forgetting to send the fans away to him! They're in a box in my car's trunk, ready to go! He probably hates me now...)

whoops...well ya could always get another









Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
If testing for OCed stability, I'd say that if you run OCCT for a long-enough time it would equal a 24-hour Orthos/Prime95 run. There's an equivalency formula at work; unfortunately, I presently cannot remember what that equivalency formula is.

If you're reasonably confident of your OC's basic stability, though, I still say S&M v.1.9.1 is THE only game in town when it comes to establishing whether or not your OC is stable. If your rig passes this test on "long" setting, it's certifiably stable.










I would interested to see equivalence of the tests. What settings should I run S&M?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Guardian, you'll probably notice a temp difference within 15-20mins after running Orthos. The results are pretty quick









Good luck

going to check here in a bit..dinner time.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

A cursory search of equivalence opinions suggests that the consensus opinion is that one hour of the default OCCT Blend Test = 3-5 hours of Orthos Blend (Test Priority Setting unknown).

For S&M, this is how I test CPU & RAM (I don't bother with HDD tests): Run the program S&M; once it loads up, hit "Wizard," which will configure the testing routines. Uncheck the HDD test (the CPU and the RAM tests should be checked by default). For as thorough a test as possible, select "Long" for test length. Select "Maximum" for CPU usage (again for thoroughness). Check the "Display results when completed" box, then hit "Continue."

There's also a section on how to disable temperature thresholds if you want; you can also set the temperature threshold to a value of your choosing.

S&M is THE most strenuous stress tester I've ever seen, bar none. If your kit isn't healthy, it can break. I've lost a kit of Corsair RAM to this test, just to let you know.







But my systems must pass this stress test before I am confident to use them daily. Passing multiple S&M runs on my gaming rig is a personal badge of honor.







If your rig passes this, it IS the closest thing you'll get to a stable overclocked system, I'd say.


----------



## Anqt31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Personally, I wouldn't do it unless you just want to OC another chip, or if the Opteron 180 is going for a ridiculously low price.







2.8GHz from any K8 is a very good speed, and there's no guarantee whatsoever the Opty will top 2.8GHz.

Do you happen to know what the stepping on the Opteron 180 is?


Nah, my cousin was cleaning out his pc cabinet and found it in the cpu sleeve that it came in. It doesn't have the box anymore, and he offered to sell it for like $100 or so. I thought it would be fun to play around with. Any suggestions for a MB if I am able to get this chip?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


Nah, my cousin was cleaning out his pc cabinet and found it in the cpu sleeve that it came in. It doesn't have the box anymore, and he offered to sell it for like $100 or so. I thought it would be fun to play around with. Any suggestions for a MB if I am able to get this chip?


For a chip with a CPU multiplier over 10x (the Opty 180 has a 12x multiplier), motherboard choice isn't as crucial. On the other hand, I would always want to get the best possible board that your budget will allow.

Accordingly, I would recommend any of the following:

*DFI LANParty UT nF4 Ultra-D*
DFI LANParty UT nF4 SLI-D/SLI-DR/SLI-DR Expert
DFI LANParty UT CFX3200-DR
*Abit KN8-SLI *(very underrated motherboard)
*ASUS A8N32-SLI Deluxe*
*Biostar TForce 6100-939* (mATX monster)








The motherboards I've put in bold I have experience with.

Incidentally, I'm looking to unload a board or two. If you want, PM me for more particulars.


----------



## boonie2

offering up my extras here to my fellow 939rs also

1} DFI LANPARTY NF4 ULTRA D
2} 2-1GB OCZ PLATINUM DDR400 2-3-2-5
3} 1GB ADATA 2-512MB DDR500 
4} THERMALRIGHT S128 COOLER W/FAN
5] THERMALRIGHT NORTHBRIDGE COOLER HR-05 SLI
6} A8N SLI DELUXE MOTHERBAORD
7} ARTIC FREEZER 64 PRO 
8} EITHER 2-1GB G-SKILL HZ DDR500 {or} 2-1GB CORSAIR XMS DDR500 {havent decided which set yet}

I hope this doesnt violate any rules here but I wanted to offer these up to you guyz and ladies here first .... pictures can be sent via email of each of these


----------



## GuardianOdin

BAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH! VideoCard driver lock-up! with S&M with 1:34 minutes to go. I ran the high test for 90 minutes ....and the damn Nvidia drivers lock up.


----------



## vwgti

Sorry to hear that G.O. Is the gfx currently overclocked als were you also including the gpu in the set of tests?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vwgti* 
Sorry to hear that G.O. Is the gfx currently overclocked als were you also including the gpu in the set of tests?

yeah it was overclocked. I completely forgot to set it back to default. Poooo

Good news it seems is the CPU is ok.I could never pass S&M before so I reckon that's a bonus.I'm going to run it again while taking a nap.


----------



## vwgti

Nice one, glad too see you got your 3 gs back. Its amazing that stripping a chip can reap you the benefits you need. Are you going to test 3.1 next? Or just be happy with what you have?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vwgti* 
Nice one, glad too see you got your 3 gs back. Its amazing that stripping a chip can reap you the benefits you need. Are you going to test 3.1 next? Or just be happy with what you have?

I'll try for 3.1Ghz when I get a watercooled set-up. Right now I'm testing a few Mhz at a time. Fine tune it as I reach higher OC.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
offering up my extras here to my fellow 939rs also

4} THERMALRIGHT S128 COOLER W/FAN
5] THERMALRIGHT NORTHBRIDGE COOLER HR-05 SLI

I hope this doesnt violate any rules here but I wanted to offer these up to you guyz and ladies here first .... pictures can be sent via email of each of these

sign me up for these boss!

I think you still have my e-mail, but if you don't PM me


----------



## vwgti

Well guys Im placing my order tommorow on the processor and ram, and just wanted to run the ram by you all before I go ahead and get it. This is the ram, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231145 , I know 4gb and ddr2 1000 are overkill for my needs but for the price it is very tempting. Feedback please


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vwgti* 
Well guys Im placing my order tommorow on the processor and ram, and just wanted to run the ram by you all before I go ahead and get it. This is the ram, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231145 , I know 4gb and ddr2 1000 are overkill for my needs but for the price it is very tempting. Feedback please









I say go for it. That should give you some OC headroom.


----------



## vwgti

Thanks G.O, thats what I was thinking, and since Im using a 64bit os, then why not get the 4gb for the hell of it. I paid way more for my 2gb kit of these mushkins, I believe I spent around $160 on them.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Good luck and have great fun with your new AM2 system, veedub!


----------



## vwgti

Thanks joe, just sucks I have to wait till next Friday to be able to order the mobo. But hey itll be worth it in the end, many hours of tweaking ahead.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vwgti* 
Well guys Im placing my order tommorow on the processor and ram, and just wanted to run the ram by you all before I go ahead and get it. This is the ram, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231145 , I know 4gb and ddr2 1000 are overkill for my needs but for the price it is very tempting. Feedback please









Vw, that is an excellent price! Just remember the more memory you have the more room for failure you may encounter. Just imagine how much troubleshooting you'll have to do if just one of those modules happens to "fail".
If the price is right jump on it









Good luck dude


----------



## pioneerisloud

What's this I read about giving away fans? Well I spose Blitz is a lucky guy then, huh?

Alright guys, I'm hoping somebody might be able to help me out here:
I'm going to be selling off 2-3 of my rigs (all Intel stuff, no worries), for some decent profit here soon. We will more than likely be looking into another 939 setup to hold us off in our other HTPC rig...maybe. So if anybody has one they'd like to hold for us for a month maybe two...it'd be appreciated. And we'll also be looking for possibly 3 sets of 2GB kits of RAM (DDR400 is fine). It all depends on what the budget allows for, because we'll still need to pick up a case, and drives too.

Just a heads up to what the potential future has in hold for us here at pioneerisloud headquarters







.


----------



## pioneerisloud

@ G.O.:
Man you seem like you really know what you're doing with RAM. You should help me get mine to stock speeds, lol. I hear you're up late nights.....so am I







. Maybe you could give me a few pointers to get my RAM to stock speeds with this POS computer







.


----------



## GuardianOdin




----------



## txtmstrjoe

G.J., G.O.! U R Winnar!

Now you can join Blitz and me in the "S&M Stable" clubhouse, and me in the "Naked S&M" clubhouse.

Oh wait.

That last one might get me in some hot water...


----------



## pioneerisloud

I might just have to run S&M when I wrastle my rig stable....AGAIN! Just to make sure.

I need help getting this RAM to cooperate though







. I mean it...I really need some serious help here, lol. Unless somebody around here wants to trade me RAM with something that'll place nicer with the A8N32 I've got. I could do that as well







.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 









G.J., G.O.! U R Winnar!

Now you can join Blitz and me in the "S&M Stable" clubhouse, and me in the "Naked S&M" clubhouse.

Oh wait.

That last one might get me in some hot water...



















Thanks Joe

lol, maybe That does sound a bit naughty...Naked S&M "stability test" Club










Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I might just have to run S&M when I wrastle my rig stable....AGAIN! Just to make sure.

I need help getting this RAM to cooperate though







. I mean it...I really need some serious help here, lol. Unless somebody around here wants to trade me RAM with something that'll place nicer with the A8N32 I've got. I could do that as well







.

Hey pioneer, what RAM dividers does that Mobo offer? I run mine at 133 when I'm at HT376 x Multiplier of 8.Right now I'm at DDR500 T1 everything else is stock until I can readjust it again.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Thanks Joe

lol, maybe That does sound a bit naughty...Naked S&M "stability test" Club









Hey pioneer, what RAM dividers does that Mobo offer? I run mine at 133 when I'm at HT376 x Multiplier of 8.Right now I'm at DDR500 T1 everything else is stock until I can readjust it again.

It offers:

100
133
166
183
200
216
250

And I'm at the 133 divider right now with 312 HT Clock to hit 200MHz on the RAM. If I up it to 166, it puts the RAM to 255MHz.....but it just won't be stable at all for ANYTHING I try with it.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Try this
166
CR T1 or T2 if by default it calls for T1 then use that

CAS 3
tRCD 4-5
tRP 4-5
tRAS 8-10
tRC 8 or a higher number.

DRAM idle Timer leave at 256 for now

turn off any corrective timing settings.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Try this
166
CR T1 or T2 if by default it calls for T1 then use that

CAS 3
tRCD 4-5
tRP 4-5
tRAS 8-10
tRC 8 or a higher number.

DRAM idle Timer leave at 256 for now

turn off any corrective timing settings.


Roger that! I wrote it down. I have a feeling my OS is starting to get to the point of total shutdown. Gonna be doing a reformat this weekend...so I'll have to wait on my RAM tinkering till then. I can't 100% permafry my OS until I have everything backed up that's needed.

However I did copy and paste what you said into a notepad doc. I'll let ya know when I try it out







.


----------



## GuardianOdin

I have to do the same. I still need to go buy some DVD's to backup the important files.


----------



## nategr8ns

not sure if I said anything about this before, but I'm almost done with my mouse paint job! (the usb flavor, not the furry one)
Just need to apply the clearcoat, waiting for color2 to dry (color one is already dry). should I wait for the paint to dry completely before I apply the clearcoat? (meaning about 20 more hours, I can clearcoat tomorrow morning) Never clearcoated anything before :X


----------



## pioneerisloud

I'd personally let it FULLY dry before doing the clearcoat. And for a mouse...I'd do a few layers of clearcoat in the very least. Mice tend to get a lot of wear and tear








.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I'd personally let it FULLY dry before doing the clearcoat. And for a mouse...I'd do a few layers of clearcoat in the very least. Mice tend to get a lot of wear and tear







.


what he said


----------



## boonie2

NATE , as pioneer said , you might want to wait until it completly dry , otherwise you might end up with a cloudy finish


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Excellent tips on the paint work, guys.









And nate, as far as your custom mouse goes, remember the OCN rule: "Pics, or it didn't happen!"


----------



## pioneerisloud

To all you racing sim fans out there (cough joe cough):
You guys might want to check out Maxishine's latest review. Oh my GOD.....his setup made me make a mess







. I'm jealous.


----------



## boonie2

Pioneer , check my post on page 464 id be willing to hold a DFI board for you till your ready for it . have 3 now so .... trying the "sli mod" on 1 of the Ultra Ds over the weekend


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


To all you racing sim fans out there (cough joe cough):
You guys might want to check out Maxishine's latest review. Oh my GOD.....his setup made me make a mess







. I'm jealous.


you can tell he's british because of where he put the shifter









dang I want me one of those wheels/pedals... I don't care about the TV, and I can always run to the dump to find a bucket seat









boonie, it helps if you post post # instead of page, most of us have different amounts of posts per page (I think I have it set to 40, so theres only 116 total pages in this thread)


----------



## pioneerisloud

I'm perfectly happy with my Momo Racing wheel / pedals







. I just want/need a bigger screen to get my race on!


----------



## boonie2

hmmmmmmm didnt know that ... ok post #4631 then PIO


----------



## nategr8ns

you guys with the Momo wheels, how much can it turn around? The G25 that maxishine uses (~$200-250







) has 900 degree turning capabilities, which logitech says is 2.5 times around from lock to lock. And the shifter on the G25 can switch between 6-speed and sequential (like that on some automatic cars, you can push the shifter to the side into a separate track as seen here and here) . Is the shifter on the Momo just a sequential shifter?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


hmmmmmmm didnt know that ... ok post #4631 then PIO


Roger that boonie







. I saw your POST. I'll PM you once funds are available to see if one is still available. I gotta pay joe off first, whether he'll let me or not...which should be done at the same time, so no worries there







.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


you guys with the Momo wheels, how much can it turn around? The G25 that maxishine uses (~$200-250







) has 900 degree turning capabilities, which logitech says is 2.5 times around from lock to lock. And the shifter on the G25 can switch between 6-speed and sequential (like that on some automatic cars, you can push the shifter to the side into a separate track as seen here and here) . Is the shifter on the Momo just a sequential shifter?


The Momo wheel has 180* or turning radius. Its nothing special, but its MORE than enough when playing a game. And the shifter on the Momo is just a standard up shift / down shift shifter. Click it up for upshift, click it down for downshift. However I personally like to use the paddle shifters instead (right where the left and right hands are on the wheel...behind the wheel a little). The paddle shifters are more comfortable to me. Not because of the "feel" of it...but because if I use the regular shifter, I put my desk at risk of being broken. My wheel is permanently installed onto my keyboard drawer....not exactly the sturdiest of things







.

For the money...the Momo wheel is HANDS DOWN the best wheel you'll find. Only when you've got a$$loads of money to spend, will you find somebody spending $200+ on a wheel and pedal set. Is the G25 worth it? Probably. But honestly....who wants to spend $225 on a wheel / pedal set, when you can get a set that's almost as good for a third or even a quarter of the price?

I stand by my decision when I bought my Momo. People tried to convince me not to buy it....and to buy a new HDD for my rig instead. Well I'm glad I ignored them since I love my racing games! I listened to joe instead....very smart man that joe is.


----------



## boonie2

not a problem PIO ill hold on to it , just give me a shout


----------



## thlnk3r

Alright guys final call before I put this puppy up on the "For Sale"...

GeCube 3850 OC Edition 700/850 - $85 Shipped

If anyone is interested please PM me


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Alright guys final call before I put this puppy up on the "For Sale"...

GeCube 3850 OC Edition 700/850 - $85 Shipped

If anyone is interested please PM me










WOW thlnk3rb377....that is one HECK of a price! I'll bet you're taking quite a loss on that card, huh? I'd definitely buy it off ya.....BUY IT being key word, if I had the cash to do so







. Just got my paycheck, and its already all gone! Didn't even get to put gas in the tank yet! Nor food in our bellies! But hey...we'll still have power and a roof over our heads. That comes first! Tip money should hold us off till next paycheck...usually does







. Or when I get this two rigs sold locally....man that'll be sweet!

Anyways, bump for the club!

@ Nate:
Did you get my little mini review on the Momo? Scroll up







.


----------



## Anqt31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Alright guys final call before I put this puppy up on the "For Sale"...

GeCube 3850 OC Edition 700/850 - $85 Shipped

If anyone is interested please PM me










Oh, why couldn't I have seen this a day ago, I would have jumped on this, but I already ordered my 4850. BTW, that's a great price.


----------



## vwgti

Well I placed my order, sucks I have to wait till next week to order the mobo but what can I do right. Question for you guys, do you know the ihs are soldered on these brisbane chips, or can I still get some naked goodness?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vwgti* 
Well I placed my order, sucks I have to wait till next week to order the mobo but what can I do right. Question for you guys, do you know the ihs are soldered on these brisbane chips, or can I still get some naked goodness?

not sure. I'm not even sure where to find out about that.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


@ Nate:
Did you get my little mini review on the Momo? Scroll up







.


yeah i did, thanks! If i can find a good price on the g25 ill get it, otherwise ill get the momo. I really like the idea of a 6 speed shifter and the clutch pedal.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


Oh, why couldn't I have seen this a day ago, I would have jumped on this, but I already ordered my 4850. BTW, that's a great price.


BUY IT ANYWAY! crossfireX between 3k and 4k series is confirmed!


----------



## alexgheseger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


yeah i did, thanks! If i can find a good price on the g25 ill get it, otherwise ill get the momo. I really like the idea of a 6 speed shifter and the clutch pedal.

BUY IT ANYWAY! crossfireX between 3k and 4k series is confirmed!


Woah, where did it say that? CF between the 3k and 4k series? Could you give me a link?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexgheseger*


Woah, where did it say that? CF between the 3k and 4k series? Could you give me a link?


It's true. 3xxx and 4xxx are in fact compatible. There was a thread in the hardware news section.


----------



## GuardianOdin

so quite around here.......tumbleweed......bounce bounce


----------



## txtmstrjoe

We be quiet 'cause we be sleeping.

Oh wait.

I'm not asleep.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


We be quiet 'cause we be sleeping.

Oh wait.

I'm not asleep.










I never sleep if I can help it....too much work to be done.









have you tried [email protected] with the new 177.35 Nvidia drivers? WOW is it fast


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Negative, naked S&M buddy. I don't fold, except for laundry and incriminating paperwork at my job...









What keeps you up at this hour? I'm too hot to sleep (ambient temperature is presently 30.1 degrees C - curse these stupidly hot SoCal summers!), and I've been mounting images onto new HDDs in my quest to beat back my hardware gremlins.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Negative, naked S&M buddy. I don't fold, except for laundry and incriminating paperwork at my job...









What keeps you up at this hour? I'm too hot to sleep (ambient temperature is presently 30.1 degrees C - curse these stupidly hot SoCal summers!), and I've been mounting images onto new HDDs in my quest to beat back my hardware gremlins.


but [email protected] can find the cure!

I'm awake because I'm at work.....I hate my job....I truly do. Lots of drunks and coked out idiots. I swear the planet would be a better place without these people.....or I'm just bitter


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


but [email protected] can find the cure!

I'm awake because I'm at work.....I hate my job....I truly do. Lots of drunks and coked out idiots. I swear the planet would be a better place without these people.....or I'm just bitter










Bummer.









Society's dregs are people, too, though. Hope no harm comes to you, G.O. I enjoy your company and friendship far too much.









I agree with you, though: [email protected] is a great way to use technology.







I must confess, though, that I can't really afford to do it properly, with the cost of living in SoCal already being stupidly expensive.

Eeewww. I can smell a skunk's stench wafting through my windows...


----------



## GuardianOdin

Thanks Joe, but I'm pretty safe here and I'm normally twice everyone esles size







usually I just speak in a stern voice and they quite down or I call the police and they go to jail....either way makes me happy. The motel where I work has nice customers for the most part. The problem people are always and 100% locals from the towns around us. BTW What do you do for a living?

lol...shunk? It very well could be coming from my job


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Thanks Joe, but I'm pretty safe here and I'm normally twice everyone esles size







usually I just speak in a stern voice and they quite down or I call the police and they go to jail....either way makes me happy. The motel where I work has nice customers for the most part. The problem people are always and 100% locals from the towns around us. BTW What do you do for a living?

lol...shunk? It very well could be coming from my job










Oh, good, then!

I should have known you'd be okay and able to protect yourself. You ARE the Brute Squad, after all!
















What do I do for a living? I work at the Los Angeles Zoo. Contrary to what some people might say, I do NOT throw monkey dung at the guests.







I'm actually the H.R. Director's assistant, but since the City of Los Angeles (the Zoo is a City Department) is undergoing a money crunch this fiscal year, there is a shortage of people. Consequently, I'm being loaned out to various divisions at the Zoo to help out. It's kind of neat, being exposed to lots of new areas and learning new things. It ought to help for the next time promotional exams are offered.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Oh, good, then!

I should have known you'd be okay and able to protect yourself. You ARE the Brute Squad, after all!
















What do I do for a living? I work at the Los Angeles Zoo. Contrary to what some people might say, I do NOT throw monkey dung at the guests.







I'm actually the H.R. Director's assistant, but since the City of Los Angeles (the Zoo is a City Department) is undergoing a money crunch this fiscal year, there is a shortage of people. Consequently, I'm being loaned out to various divisions at the Zoo to help out. It's kind of neat, being exposed to lots of new areas and learning new things. It ought to help for the next time promotional exams are offered.











dang!...I want wrestle the gorillas! I'd have a blast working at a zoo. I'm sure LA's zoo is top notch. I'll have to check if I ever get the money to head out that way. I never get leave Indiana except a once a year trip to Ohio for the Mid-Ohio Comicbook convention. That's only 6 hours away thou. I want to 12-14 hours away lol


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Man, I'd be terribly annoyed if you don't at least tell me if you'll be in the L.A. area.







If and when you ever do make your way to SoCal, you, me, and thlnk3r (and whoever else we might connect with) have to get together.

LOL I don't think you'd want to wrestle with our gorillas, actually. They're pretty strong, by all accounts. Smart, too.









Nuts. Now I have to update Steam. ROFL That will take HOURS.

I can install "Orange Box" from its orange box, but the other games will take time.

Methinks I'll take my leave now, good sir.







I actually have a couple of things to do in the morrow (among them RMAing a HDD), and I'll be driving about 110 miles to go to my parents' house.

At least the trip back will be in the evening, when there's no bright sunlight to hurt me eyes!

Take care, G.O.







I'll catch you later.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Man, I'd be terribly annoyed if you don't at least tell me if you'll be in the L.A. area.







If and when you ever do make your way to SoCal, you, me, and thlnk3r (and whoever else we might connect with) have to get together.

LOL I don't think you'd want to wrestle with our gorillas, actually. They're pretty strong, by all accounts. Smart, too.









Nuts. Now I have to update Steam. ROFL That will take HOURS.

I can install "Orange Box" from its orange box, but the other games will take time.

Methinks I'll take my leave now, good sir.







I actually have a couple of things to do in the morrow (among them RMAing a HDD), and I'll be driving about 110 miles to go to my parents' house.

At least the trip back will be in the evening, when there's no bright sunlight to hurt me eyes!

Take care, G.O.







I'll catch you later.










I will certainly let you know if I was going to be out that way. I really wouldn't want to wrestle with the Gorillas...They would literally tear me a part.









Ok Joe have fun at your parents and downloading and RMA'ing! I'll be here all day I'm thinking.....I do need a life sometimes lol


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


I never sleep if I can help it....too much work to be done.









have you tried [email protected] with the new 177.35 Nvidia drivers? WOW is it fast


theres actually 177.39s out now, but no performance difference for most people
I've finally hit the 20k mark in folding! W00t!!!

hey joe, you could always move to maine to beat the temps








they're not great during the summer, but definitely better than L.A.








but we don't have any really nice zoos here :\\


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
theres actually 177.39s out now, but no performance difference for most people
I've finally hit the 20k mark in folding! W00t!!!

hey joe, you could always move to maine to beat the temps








they're not great during the summer, but definitely better than L.A.








but we don't have any really nice zoos here :

I went from 42 WU to 87 in less than a day. Imagine if I left it running


----------



## nategr8ns

do you know off hand what your PPD is for just your GPU client? Mine maxes out at 3256 no matter what... really pisses me off (graphics overclocks dont make it go any higher)

edit: what do you guys think of this? You can vote for it by following the link in my sig


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


do you know off hand what your PPD is for just your GPU client? Mine maxes out at 3256 no matter what... really pisses me off (graphics overclocks dont make it go any higher)

edit: what do you guys think of this? You can vote for it by following the link in my sig










have no clue what my PPD is and I'm not sure where to look.


----------



## nategr8ns

i just figured it out, you have to download a program called FahMon, then right click in the blank space and press "add client"
then browse to your "application data" (C:\\documents and settings\\yourusername\\application data) and then go to the FAH GPU Client folder or whatever its called, then hit accept.
It tells you how long 'til the WU is finished and how fast its going (in terms of PointsPerDay). Useful for comparing your folding power









some people are getting 6000+ ppd with their 8800gt, but I PEAK at 3256ppd. it runs steady there all the time, unless im ingame, but NEVER goes over...

so what did you think of my wallpaper two posts up?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


i just figured it out, you have to download a program called FahMon, then right click in the blank space and press "add client"
then browse to your "application data" (C:documents and settingsyourusernameapplication data) and then go to the FAH GPU Client folder or whatever its called, then hit accept.
It tells you how long 'til the WU is finished and how fast its going (in terms of PointsPerDay). Useful for comparing your folding power









some people are getting 6000+ ppd with their 8800gt, but I PEAK at 3256ppd. it runs steady there all the time, unless im ingame, but NEVER goes over...

so what did you think of my wallpaper two posts up?










Thanks Nate! Right now I'm at 6% and it's saying 4704ppd. Hope thats good. I dig the wallpaper btw


----------



## nategr8ns

good compared to me









did you vote for me?


----------



## minhyxrated

i guess im a member of this. =)


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
good compared to me









did you vote for me?









and voted









Quote:


Originally Posted by *minhyxrated* 
i guess im a member of this. =)

Welcome!







or have you already joined?


----------



## minhyxrated

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
and voted









Welcome!







or have you already joined?


how do i join?

nvm i got it.


----------



## vwgti

You must post a cpu-z validation link, and I believe that is all.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *minhyxrated* 
how do i join?

get a validation link with CPU-Z


----------



## minhyxrated




----------



## boonie2

WELCOME TO THE LIGHT SIDE


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *minhyxrated* 









Screen shots are ok but we need a validation link so we can add you to the list.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 







WELCOME TO THE DARK SIDE









You mean the lightside







Intel is the darkside...we are Jedi


----------



## boonie2

The Force Is Strong In You Wise Master Odin







{I stand corrected}


----------



## Anqt31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *minhyxrated*












Hey minhyxrated,

Welcome to S939 club. For overclocking that cpu, try bumping up your fsb to 218 with the x11 multiplier. That's should give you a good stable 2.4Ghz OC. Good luck!


----------



## boonie2

the 4200+ should do 2.8 with that board pretty easily

{just noticed youve had it at 2.8 in your sig}


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*









The Force Is Strong In You Wise Master Odin







{I stand corrected}


lol...you may proceed.Muwahahahaha


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Please welcome our newest member, minhyxrated!









Just to clarify, to join the club you can post a CPU-Z validation link, post a screenshot of a CPU-Z validation, or PM thlnk3r, pioneerisloud, blitz6804, GuardianOdin, or me with the validation link. Lots of ways to get in.









Thanks to our great and friendly regulars boonie and Anqt and veedub for all the welcome message.


----------



## Murderous Moppet

Well, I just received news that a friend of mine is upgrading, and he's sending me his 4200+, not much of an upgrade, but an 11x multi never hurt anyone. I also get his 2gigs of ram which is in itself kickass.

Really, his loss for leaving the greatest platform ever made.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hey, Murderous, freebies are ALWAYS good.
















Are you going to be posting your OCing adventures with the X2 4200+? I hope so.


----------



## GuardianOdin

adventures are always fun!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well...since joe is the HR Director at the zoo, maybe he can get me a job







. Meh...not like I care, sounds like I wouldn't like the ambient temperatures in SoCal anyways.

Anyways....what's been happenin? Been at work all day, then found out I had a flat tire, so I had to fix it by driving it for 2 hours (there went about $20 in gas)...to get the "slime" to seal the hole.

What a NIGHT!


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Murderous Moppet*


Well, I just received news that a friend of mine is upgrading, and he's sending me his 4200+, not much of an upgrade, but an 11x multi never hurt anyone. I also get his 2gigs of ram which is in itself kickass.

Really, his loss for leaving the greatest platform ever made.



Hey , an upgrade is an upgrade .. and you cant beat the price


----------



## nategr8ns

got a new wallpaper made, for the import lovers








it features a Mazda RX-7 in a nearly 90* drift







(see sig)

welcome minhy!
moppet, keep us tuned with the overclocking on the new processor


----------



## Anqt31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Well...since joe is the HR Director at the zoo, maybe he can get me a job







. Meh...not like I care, sounds like I wouldn't like the ambient temperatures in SoCal anyways.

Anyways....what's been happenin? Been at work all day, then found out I had a flat tire, so I had to fix it by driving it for 2 hours (there went about $20 in gas)...to get the "slime" to seal the hole.

What a NIGHT!



Don't worry pioneer, anytime I want to go to town, I spend $15 in gas. Don't let it get you down! (Wanna join the Anti-high gas price club? j/k) Anyways, I feel your pain.


----------



## thlnk3r

Welcome minhyxrated









Anq I'll be PM'ing you back soon!


----------



## Blitz6804

Okay, get ready for another omega-ultimate-death-multi-post!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexgheseger*


If you're very careful, a dremel will do the trick, problem is though that they tend to melt/scorch the acrylic if you get a little to excited. Got a jigsaw?


I actually ended up using a drill to get a starting hole, and then a scroll saw to do the work. I took pictures, will post them later.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


Nice OC, I was looking at a Opteron 180, should I upgrade from my x2 4200+ or is it worth it?


I would say it is worth it if only for the extra cache. The big thing is the stepping as Joe has already stated.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Hehe

I'm a fan of that fan.









Am giving mine away to Blitz.

Which reminds me just how big a dummy I am.









(Because I've been forgetting to send the fans away to him! They're in a box in my car's trunk, ready to go! He probably hates me now...)


I would not say hate you, but I am a little stuck wondering if you shipped or not yet.

In other news, once I get them, my case will be entirely Thermaltake cooled. Every single fan will be a thermaltake. Yes, I know the CPU cooler is Thermalright, but pay no attention to the man behind the curtain.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


If you're reasonably confident of your OC's basic stability, though, I still say S&M v.1.9.1 is THE only game in town when it comes to establishing whether or not your OC is stable. If your rig passes this test on "long" setting, it's certifiably stable.










I love S&M personally. After 5-7 hours of S&M, you can purport your computer as stable or stabler than if you ran Orthos 12-14 hours. Not a bad time saver!

HOWEVER: Caveat emptor: S&M is not for people with weak constitutions. Every time I run it on my PC, I feel like I am having a heart attack. You have been warned.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


BAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH! VideoCard driver lock-up! with S&M with 1:34 minutes to go. I ran the high test for 90 minutes ....and the damn Nvidia drivers lock up.










I too had that problem. S&M was running fine, and then I decided to start playing with the window...

Illegal operation resulted.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


What's this I read about giving away fans? Well I spose Blitz is a lucky guy then, huh?

...

And we'll also be looking for possibly 3 sets of 2GB kits of RAM (DDR400 is fine). It all depends on what the budget allows for, because we'll still need to pick up a case, and drives too.


They are birthday gifts Pioneer. And we never finished talking about my Corsairs here...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


<Picture showing OCNS5*+* stability. Click link to see it! -Blitz>


Congrats! *Pins a badge on his chest; starts to blot away the freshly-caused blood.*

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Roger that! I wrote it down. I have a feeling my OS is starting to get to the point of total shutdown. Gonna be doing a reformat this weekend...so I'll have to wait on my RAM tinkering till then. I can't 100% permafry my OS until I have everything backed up that's needed.


Again!? Did not you just install that OS about a month ago...?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


I have to do the same. I still need to go buy some DVD's to backup the important files.


I recommend an external hard drive kept in a fire-proof for backing up personally.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


For the money...the Momo wheel is HANDS DOWN the best wheel you'll find. Only when you've got a$$loads of money to spend, will you find somebody spending $200+ on a wheel and pedal set. Is the G25 worth it? Probably. But honestly....who wants to spend $225 on a wheel / pedal set, when you can get a set that's almost as good for a third or even a quarter of the price?


If I had it, I would spend it. I have a pair of $60 PS2 wheels. They are similar to Momos, but lack the stick shifter and have lower-quality pedals.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Alright guys final call before I put this puppy up on the "For Sale"...

GeCube 3850 OC Edition 700/850 - $85 Shipped

If anyone is interested please PM me










If I had PCI-E, I would certainly get my hands on your card. However, I do not, and will need to live with my AGP card. See later discussion about case temps.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


so quite around here.......tumbleweed......bounce bounce


You just wait until I get home young man... there will not be a dead post in the house!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Negative, naked S&M buddy. I don't fold, except for laundry and incriminating paperwork at my job...









What keeps you up at this hour? I'm too hot to sleep (ambient temperature is presently 30.1 degrees C - curse these stupidly hot SoCal summers!), and I've been mounting images onto new HDDs in my quest to beat back my hardware gremlins.


I know I should not be complaining, but I am rather uncomfortable in my parents' house. They have window and wall units around the house. The guest room is not one of those rooms affected by one. The end result is that the room is much warmer than I would like, but still not in the range of Scorpiondom.

(Woot! Page 468, four pages left!)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


hey joe, you could always move to maine to beat the temps








they're not great during the summer, but definitely better than L.A.








but we don't have any really nice zoos here :


Right now in Buffalo, it is 73Âº F with thunderstorms. Tonight should be in the 50s. Right now in Long Island, it is about 79Âº F with no rain, but 100% humidity. I am miserable here!

Is it January yet?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *minhyxrated*












Welcome to the club minhyxrated! Another "very slightly underclocked' joins our fold!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Screen shots are ok but we need a validation link so we can add you to the list.


Not technically. Joe can rosterlink his post.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Just to clarify, to join the club you can post a CPU-Z validation link, post a screenshot of a CPU-Z validation, or PM thlnk3r, pioneerisloud, blitz6804, GuardianOdin, or me with the validation link. Lots of ways to get in.










No fair posting that before me! You know I am out of town!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I actually ended up using a drill to get a starting hole, and then a scroll saw to do the work. I took pictures, will post them later.


As promised:

1) Try this whole thing on a test piece of acrylic. once I did that, I proceded.
2) Take blue painter's tape and stick it down on the case where the fan should go.
3) Tape the fan filter in place on the far side and hold to the light to get an idea for the circle.
4) Hold the door flush against a piece of wood (to prevent blowout) and drill a 3/8" pilot hole
5) Cut out the circle with a 3/8" scroll saw








6) Line up the intended fan grill
7) Put tape under each of the mounting points, and mark the wholes
8) Drill each hole (again on the wood to prevent blowout) large enough for a #10 bolt








9) Find some #10 rubber washers lying around your basement
10) Realize the washers are too thick and bisect them with an exacto
11) Feed the bolt through the grill, then the washer, the door, a metal washer, and a finally a nut
12) Lay the door on the carpet and take a picture








13) Remount the door on the case









Was it worth it? Quite possibly. My CPU temps are approximately 2Âº C cooler than they were. However, this, my first case mod, was not done for this purpose. It was done for the well-being of my 3850. Prior to the mod, while running Real-Time High-Dynamic Range Image-Based Lighting, my 3850 at 98% load would read 71Âº C with 81% fan speed. Afterwards, my 3850 reads 71Âº C at 25% fan speed. Prior, it idled at 52Âº C at 13% fan speed. Now, it idles at 39Âº C at 13% fan speed.

Form your own opinion!


----------



## boonie2

whew


----------



## nategr8ns

^ lol boonie

looks good boonie! I'm considering putting a fan on my side panel again, I removed it so that it wouldn't block the view of my components







(I ended up putting it at the exhaust end of my freezer64)


----------



## Jacko87

Hey everyone, I just got finished ripping up a friends laptop that he gave to me since it no longer works. I was curious as to what the CPU was, he said it ran at 2.0GHz and thats all he knew. So I finally get into the motherboard to find none other than a socket 939 CPU. I thought these were desktop CPUs, or is there a mobile 939 CPU? Anyway I've since removed it, I'm guessing its an Athlon 64 3200 because the first line says ADA3200DEP4AW. So is this thing of any use or not? If it is, I might sell it for a few dollars or just freebie it out.


----------



## nategr8ns

probably a desktop cpu on a custom motherboard with some crazy low profile cooler








cool find though


----------



## Jacko87

Here are some pictures of it.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


^ lol boonie

looks good *boonie*! I'm considering putting a fan on my side panel again, I removed it so that it wouldn't block the view of my components







(I ended up putting it at the exhaust end of my freezer64)


(Emph mine)

Boonie? Boonie said "whew" to my omega-death-post.


----------



## siulmagic

add me =D 
i also own a amd 64 3200 single core sadly its collecting dust in my closet =/

socket 939 will live on muahhaha


----------



## Blitz6804

Welcome to the club siulmagic! Joe will add you next time he is online.

That was a nice performance upgrade for you I am sure (31.75% over stock). Have you tried to push it any higher by chance?


----------



## Anqt31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *siulmagic*


add me =D 
i also own a amd 64 3200 single core sadly its collecting dust in my closet =/

socket 939 will live on muahhaha




Welcome siulmagic. Nice OC. Keep up the work. Remember, the day you quit taking risks is the day you won't be able to live with yourself!


----------



## Anqt31

Hey guys, I was looking at the roster, and I saw my overclock was listed at a 2806Mhz, anyway I could get it changed to my 3006Mhz OC? If it's not any trouble.


----------



## Blitz6804

Sure Anqt32, just hook us up with a new screen cap or validation link.


----------



## Anqt31

It is on page 429.


----------



## siulmagic

blitz6804 i have tried belive me, i can go to 2.7 but as soon as i play a game sooner or later it crashes it runs fine in descktop, 2.8 wont even reach windows XD maybe you can help me reach 2.8 in my thread

http://www.overclock.net/amd-cpus/34...-8-amd-x2.html

glad to be in the club woohoo


----------



## Blitz6804

To make Joe's life easier, that post is:

http://www.overclock.net/4016533-post4282.html

To siulmagic: I am reading that now. You have come to the right place for advice with us around.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jacko87* 
Hey everyone, I just got finished ripping up a friends laptop that he gave to me since it no longer works. I was curious as to what the CPU was, he said it ran at 2.0GHz and thats all he knew. So I finally get into the motherboard to find none other than a socket 939 CPU. I thought these were desktop CPUs, or is there a mobile 939 CPU? Anyway I've since removed it, I'm guessing its an Athlon 64 3200 because the first line says ADA3200DEP4AW. So is this thing of any use or not? If it is, I might sell it for a few dollars or just freebie it out.

Jacko, more details for that processor can be found here: http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/K8/AMD...200AWBOX).html

Hope that helps









Welcome Siulmagic to the club


----------



## siulmagic

thx for adding me glad to be here


----------



## GuardianOdin

Welcome to the club siulmagic. There is a lot to be learned here and everyone here is pretty at helping the other.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

siulmagic, welcome to the Club!







You have been added to our ever-growing roster of happy misfits.

Anqt, your entry has been edited to reflect your current overclock.







Great job with your X2 4200+!


----------



## GuardianOdin

I prefer little rascals to misfits.....but whatever


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *siulmagic*


thx for adding me glad to be here



WELCOME - SIULMAGIC


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:


Originally Posted by *siulmagic* 
thx for adding me glad to be here

Welcome to the club.


----------



## pioneerisloud

siulmagic:
Welcome to our little club inside OCN







. I hope you enjoy your stay here as much as the rest of us do!

Blitz:
I know it was just a birthday present...I was just teasin on those fans







. Nothing more nothing less







. And also...check your PM box. You're right we do need to talk about that RAM.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
(Emph mine)

Boonie? Boonie said "whew" to my omega-death-post.

whoops, sorry








I think I posted that late at night or something, right before I spent 10-12pm playing GRID







(its so darn addicting!)

welcome siulmagic! Enjoy your stay


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


siulmagic, welcome to the Club!







You have been added to our ever-growing roster of happy misfits.

Anqt, your entry has been edited to reflect your current overclock.







Great job with your X2 4200+!










On that note, my link is also out of date. On the other hand, I have yet to get a new link now that I have Mushkins instead of Corsair. I will need to tweak around yet once I get the new case ventilation. Stay tuned!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Need your help guys....Linky...DVD-ROM no ready


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Please welcome our newest member, halocog!


----------



## GuardianOdin

welcome to the club halocog!, there are cookies and milk at the snack table


----------



## nategr8ns

Eat us!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
Eat us!









lol, that actually does look good.


----------



## thlnk3r

Welcome to the Club halocog!

Guardian, check your DVD-ROM thread...I replied


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Welcome to the Club halocog!

Guardian, check your DVD-ROM thread...I replied









seen it, btw how do I download it on steam? I can't seem to find the page.


----------



## Blitz6804

In case anyone is curious, here is the tool of my destruction. Only the most-modern technology is good enough for my rig. This saw dates to sometime in the 1980s. It is a 5/8" stroke and is capable of speeds of up to 3000 SPM. The blade I used was 32 TPI, ideal for cutting metal pipe according to Sears.

The box:









3/4 angle:









Side-on:









The advantage of a scroll saw over a jig saw is that the blade can be turned independently from the base, up to Â±45Âº, which is a handy feature if you do not want to be bothered to remove the rivets from the panel before cutting. Just steer around them!


----------



## nategr8ns

wait, thats a scroll saw? I thought scroll saws usually had their own cutting surface thingy that you put the material to be cut on.
lemme find a pic of what I think...








careful, its big.

oh btw, yours just looks like a jig-saw to me


----------



## boonie2

Welcome Halocog


----------



## boonie2

bLITZ , the "scroll" is controled by the knob on top isnt it? my dad has has the same model


----------



## Blitz6804

You are right nate. My dad called it a scroll saw. My shop teacher said what you showed was a "table scroll saw."

Sears called it a "scrolled sabre saw." We all know that a jig saw is just a small sabre saw.

Are not semantics fun?


----------



## Anqt31

Welcome Halocog.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


In case anyone is curious, here is the tool of my destruction. Only the most-modern technology is good enough for my rig. This saw dates to sometime in the 1980s. It is a 5/8" stroke and is capable of speeds of up to 3000 SPM. The blade I used was 32 TPI, ideal for cutting metal pipe according to Sears.

The box:









3/4 angle:









Side-on:









The advantage of a scroll saw over a jig saw is that the blade can be turned independently from the base, up to Â±45Âº, which is a handy feature if you do not want to be bothered to remove the rivets from the panel before cutting. Just steer around them!


i have that jigsaw. worked well for my 690 case mod.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


wait, thats a scroll saw? I thought scroll saws usually had their own cutting surface thingy that you put the material to be cut on.
lemme find a pic of what I think...








careful, its big.

oh btw, yours just looks like a jig-saw to me


oh jig saws were called scroll saws back 20 years ago. you are correct with the present terms. scroll saw is what you have pictured.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


bLITZ , the "scroll" is controled by the knob on top isnt it? my dad has has the same model


*nods* i never use it though.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


You are right nate. My dad called it a scroll saw. My shop teacher said what you showed was a "table scroll saw."

Sears called it a "scrolled sabre saw." We all know that a jig saw is just a small sabre saw.

Are not semantics fun?


more or less...


----------



## pioneerisloud

@ G.O.

I tried the settings you suggested:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *G.O.*

Try this
166
CR T1 or T2 if by default it calls for T1 then use that

CAS 3
tRCD 4-5
tRP 4-5
tRAS 8-10
tRC 8 or a higher number.

DRAM idle Timer leave at 256 for now

turn off any corrective timing settings.


I went with 3,5,5,10,2T, DRAM Idle Timer = 256 (I believe I picked the right setting). Corrective settings? I just left everything else auto set. And limited frequency to 166MHz (put me to 255MHz). Going to try OCCT now.

EDIT:
That was a no go







. Errored out at 58 min. 54 sec....so 6 seconds into the actual run. I KNOW its the RAM that's doing it. I just don't know how to fix it.

EDIT 2:
Orthos errors out after 30 seconds saying:

FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0.5, expected less than 0.4
Hardware failure detected, consult stress.txt file.
Torture Test ran 0 minutes 28 seconds - 1 errors, 0 warnings.
Execution halted.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


@ G.O.

I tried the settings you suggested:

I went with 3,5,5,10,2T, DRAM Idle Timer = 256 (I believe I picked the right setting). Corrective settings? I just left everything else auto set. And limited frequency to 166MHz (put me to 255MHz). Going to try OCCT now.

EDIT:
That was a no go







. Errored out at 58 min. 54 sec....so 6 seconds into the actual run. I KNOW its the RAM that's doing it. I just don't know how to fix it.

EDIT 2:
Orthos errors out after 30 seconds saying:

FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0.5, expected less than 0.4
Hardware failure detected, consult stress.txt file.
Torture Test ran 0 minutes 28 seconds - 1 errors, 0 warnings.
Execution halted.


turn off any corrective settings. Those were messing me up.

EDIT: I would like to see the BIOS to be sure about the timings


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


turn off any corrective settings. Those were messing me up.

EDIT: I would like to see the BIOS to be sure about the timings


Roger that...I'll see if I can find my pictures I took







.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Alrighty...here's a bunch of pictures of ALL of my OC settings in BIOS. These may be outdated pics BTW...but it does show what all options I have







. Attached is the zip file. Its safe, no worries







.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Ok. A few suggestions.

1.Dynamic idle cycle center: disable
2. don't use point numbers ,example 7.5,8.5...etc
3.DDR driving strength: auto if possible
4.Read preamble: Auto
5.Asynchronous Latency: Auto

Hope some of this works. Remember set all the sub-timings to auto for now. I'll try and get pic's of my BIOS when I get my sister's camera back. DFI motherboard setup is so much easier to follow or I should say most of the setting are all open and not hidden in sub menu's. I know it can be a pain to remember where things are when they are hidden like that.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Alrighty....took note of that







. Will try it out on my next restart.


----------



## Blitz6804

I have an idea for you to try which I know you are going to hate:

Clear your CMOS.

Since you have an Asus this is harder to do than most people's, but when my computer absolutely refuses to place nice with an overclock, a CMOS dump will usually rectify the problem.

Might I suggest the same with your now-topless Opty my fellow S&Mer?

(By the way, your Sig Rig shows naked, but still shows lapped. That takes stones: lapping a bare CPU!)


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I have an idea for you to try which I know you are going to hate:

Clear your CMOS.

Since you have an Asus this is harder to do than most people's, but when my computer absolutely refuses to place nice with an overclock, a CMOS dump will usually rectify the problem.

Might I suggest the same with your now-topless Opty my fellow S&Mer?

(By the way, your Sig Rig shows naked, but still shows lapped. That takes stones: lapping a bare CPU!)


whoops!...I guess it's no longer lapped









Yeppers, I passed S&M on the high test with the CPU at 100%

and I hope your talking to me or this may be awkward


----------



## nategr8ns

I think part was for pio and part was for you









woohoo! once I got my drivers sorted I am not getting 4812PPD on my 88gt instead of the 3256 that it was stuck at for a while.


----------



## Valllldondo

sign me up...not vaildated anything yet...
still in process of trying to get it OC'd properly..

link

help appriciated....

peice out yaol...


----------



## nategr8ns

you've posted in the right place









are you stable at 2.9?!?


----------



## Valllldondo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


you've posted in the right place









are you stable at 2.9?!?


CPU - 2900 MHz (ish)
HT - 970 MHz (ish)
DRAM Freq - 196 (ish) 
_PCI = 120 MHz (Windows OK - games crash if set any higher)_
_FSB = 240 MHz (Windows OK - games crash if set any higher)_
_CPU Multi = 12x 2400 MHz_
_CPU Volt = 1.400 V (max i can go to without the vcore mod)_
_Memory Clock = 133 MHz DDR333 (doesn't boot on DDR400)_
_CPU - NB Link - 800 MHz (x4)_
_NB - SB Link Speed - 800 MHz (x4)_
0% CPU use - 29 to 32 degrees
70-100% CPU use - 45 to 49 degrees

Yip...as stable a a horse...(so far)

RAM timings are all on AUTO, appart from telling the MB that i am running DDR33's instead of DDR400's...will not boot up otherwise....
no idea about ram timings to be honest...never gone there..lol

limited to 1.4v cause of the wonderful asrock lock on it...
i am not feeling brave enough yet to perform the vcore mod on it to unlock it to 1.5v!....

but ANY other things that will make it better would be grand!


----------



## nategr8ns

if you know the timings on your memory that could help.

Thanks for all those settings. I didn't see the link in your post (did you edit it in right after?)


----------



## Valllldondo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


if you know the timings on your memory that could help.

Thanks for all those settings. I didn't see the link in your post (did you edit it in right after?)


know idea!...its tuesday afternoon and its nearly home time!!..lol

right getting the RAM timings...
Under CPUZ program...
what ones should i be concernd about.
The timings under the *Memory* Tab or 
or
The timings under the *SPD *tab with the 166MHZ & 200 MHz in the table thing?


----------



## nategr8ns

how about a screen shot of each?


----------



## Blitz6804

The settings under the "memory" tab are what your settings actually are.

The settings under the "SPD" tab are what Kingston recommends for a 166 MHz and 200 MHz FSB respectively.

If you really think you are stable, try joining the S&M club. (Link is on the first page.) WARNING: I am not liable if your rig commits seppuku.


----------



## Valllldondo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


how about a screen shot of each?










here we go chaps...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Please welcome our newest family member, Valllldondo!









Sorry I've been relatively unavailable of late, guys and gal. Work has been stupidly busy, and I've been too tired to stay online and mix it up with y'all.







But I'm very happy to see that things are well taken care of here in our little corner of OCN.







Great job, everyone!


----------



## boonie2

WELCOME VALLLLDONDO, was going to say something nice about "BLARNEY STONES" Till I found out they relate to IRELAND







............


----------



## Anqt31

Welcome Valllldondo, Nice OC.


----------



## nategr8ns

Welcome Val! Nice overclock!

Do you know off-hand what your load temps are? If they're low enough, you should be able to up the FSB to 248 without changing any other settings. The ram should be at 200mhz, and the FSB should be at 992, and the processor should be at 2976








that would be a very nice overclock indeed


----------



## Anqt31

->nategr8ns

Did you find a s939 waterblock? You're in the same situation as me! Summer heat kills!


----------



## nategr8ns

no I still haven't








And if the bong can control the processor heat, I may buy a GPU block








I used to be able to get the core to 723MHz, now I can't even get ATItool to open the 3d viewer for more than ~10 seconds AT STOCK (650 core) before my entire screen goes funny cyan and magenta colors, and then starts flickering rapidly (dying video card or just unstable?!?)


----------



## pioneerisloud

@ Valllldondo:
Dude, turn your PCI frequency DOWN!!!! If that's PCIe, it should be AT 100MHz....and NO MORE than 107MHz. You can damage components by cranking that stupid thing up any higher







. I didn't realize that before. That NEEDS to go down before you damage your card or board. Other than that...so far so good







.

@ Everyone else:
Check out my attachments! I'm OFFICIALLY stable (again). I ended up permafrying my install in the process tho...its slow as molasses right now. Gotta do a fresh install this week now.

@ Blitz:
Yes, I know. I just reformatted roughly a month and a half maybe two months ago. However I now have in my possesion... *A LEGAL AND 100% LEGIT* copy of Windows Vista Ultimate Retail 64/32. So I figure I might as well go legit whilst I'm at it







.

Alrighty...check out my pics!!!! 16 hours OCCT stable. Gonna run S&M tonite.

*@ G.O.
Dude, if you've got a messenger client you use regularly....hit me up (pioneerisloud for everything...hotmail's the email)!!! I could DRASTICALLY use your RAM expertise so I can get this RAM cranked up a little higher. I'd LOVE to be above 200MHz. And BTW...a CMOS reset DOES NOTHING. Been there, tried that.*


----------



## PROBN4LYFE

LOL I got in wuth teh Manchester....w00t!!!!


----------



## pioneerisloud

If that 3.0GHz Manny is stable...that's quite impressive! Congrats







.


----------



## thlnk3r

Welcome Valllldondo to the club. Nice overclock buddy









PROBN4LYFE, that is a very nice OC! Manny's are hard to get up there. Do you have any CPU-Z validation screenshots?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


*@ G.O.
Dude, if you've got a messenger client you use regularly....hit me up (pioneerisloud for everything...hotmail's the email)!!! I could DRASTICALLY use your RAM expertise so I can get this RAM cranked up a little higher. I'd LOVE to be above 200MHz. And BTW...a CMOS reset DOES NOTHING. Been there, tried that.*


sorry man, I haven't been on AIM in quite a while. I've been trying to get work done my pages.

I have been thinking about that motherboard and if I can find for a decent price I may buy one after this moving thing is done....btw I'm moving. My Sister and her Husband are loosing their house "where I have been staying" so I have find some place in the next month. In the mean time I'll try and find some timings for your RAM online and see if it can be pushed some more.

*EDIT:* Well dang Pio, looks like a lot of people are having issue with RAM on that motherboard.

*EDIT2:* Yep it's the motherboard. From reviews that RAM can run at some fairly decent timings. Most cases seem best as CAS 3-3-3-8 T1. I'm going to search and see if what solutions people found for that ASUS board.

*LOL EDIT3:* Try and contact ASUS about the RAM issue for that Mobo. From what I have seen searching, your RAM should have no issues hitting DDR500+ speeds. The problems lie in the Mobo. Not all of those model motherboards are affected by this, it seems like a random occurrence. There may be a BIOS fix for it that I can not find. So yeah I'd contact ASUS about the issue.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Roger that G.O.

I've contacted OCZ about this issue before (I know that's not Asus, but bear with me). They were on the phone with me for 4+ HOURS trying to help me set the timings on my motherboard. And I had the guy stumped.

I'm also on the LATEST OFFICIAL BIOS for my motherboard. I forget the number exactly...but there's been none released since it other than a beta BIOS...which I've tried and it did nothing for me.

I don't really want to RMA this board though because I'm afraid that I wouldn't get the same one back







.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Roger that G.O.

I've contacted OCZ about this issue before (I know that's not Asus, but bear with me). They were on the phone with me for 4+ HOURS trying to help me set the timings on my motherboard. And I had the guy stumped.

I'm also on the LATEST OFFICIAL BIOS for my motherboard. I forget the number exactly...but there's been none released since it other than a beta BIOS...which I've tried and it did nothing for me.

I don't really want to RMA this board though because I'm afraid that I wouldn't get the same one back







.

Hmmm... I'm not sure what the solution would be, but by all accounts you should be able to run at your RAM's spec's. You have already tried a different set of sticks?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Hmmm... I'm not sure what the solution would be, but by all accounts you should be able to run at your RAM's spec's. You have already tried a different set of sticks?

Well my old Corsair Value sticks (currently in Froggy's rig with some Samsungs as well)....ran at 200MHz 3-3-3-8-2T. At THE MOST, I could hit 208MHz with them. In HER motherboard, they hit 225+ (haven't tested higher), and STABLE at stock timings...WITH 4 sticks of RAM being used.

I've also tried my Kingston Hyper X DDR400 in my rig. It will ONLY run 200MHz 3-4-4-8-2T PERIOD. It WOULD NOT go any higher and pass OCCT or Orthos. In my HTPC board, those sticks would boot into Windows at 266MHz, and they were stable at 250MHz at 3-4-4-10-2T. Or at 200MHz 2-2-2-5-1T.

So yes, I've tried other RAM in my board. ALL of the RAM I've tried pretty much FAILS in my motherboard







. Its sad really...this is supposed to be one of the best 939 boards out there, but I can't even run my RAM at spec.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Going start posting some links that might help. I will edit this post as I find them.

Link one

Link two

Link three

Link four

Link five


----------



## Valllldondo

i like this thread...people talk!...lol

right...will turn down the *PCIE* back to *100 MHz* then...

I have tried turning the *FSB* up a few times...
The highest i got to with Windows booting was *242*...
but it came unstable playing games with crashes to desktop and the odd system freeze up...
*BUT...*
could that have been caused by the PCIE being to high rather than the FSB being to high?

With regards to the volts being supplied to the CPU...
_how much more can the Opteron 180 take?...
How much of an OC can you get (on average) with 1.4v to that CPU?..._

With regards to the RAM timings under BIOS...
What should i be changing?
BIOS - Auto
CPUZ Memory---2.5 / 3 / 3 / 7 / 10 / 2T / 16
CPUZ SPD------ 3 / 3 / 3 / 8 / ? / ? / ?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well to answer a few of the questions for you (to the best of my ability):

1.50v is safe on air. But keep the temps in line as well. NO more than 65*C under full Orthos / OCCT load.
The overclock is dependant on your chip, and your chip alone. Your mileage WILL vary from others, even if they're the same stepping and week. So far you've done VERY well







.

RAM:
Sounds like you're actually running them SLIGHTLY tighter than stock. That's okay. But if you're pushing for a higher CPU speed, you'd probably want them slightly looser...closer to stock speeds. Just change the option to manual in BIOS and change them till they match up with CPUz. Take notes of what settings are what in CPUz and your BIOS (hand write or print them)...that way you don't have to reset your CMOS too often before you get it right







.


----------



## GuardianOdin

what an ugly mess ASUS did with that Mobo. It seems like half work perfect and other half are junk. I'm not finding a lot in the way of BIOS mods. I'll keep looking.


----------



## Valllldondo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
no I still haven't








And if the bong can control the processor heat, I may buy a GPU block








I used to be able to get the core to 723MHz, now I can't even get ATItool to open the 3d viewer for more than ~10 seconds AT STOCK (650 core) before my entire screen goes funny cyan and magenta colors, and then starts flickering rapidly (dying video card or just unstable?!?)

0% CPU use - 29 to 32 degrees
70-100% CPU use - 45 to 49 degrees

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Well to answer a few of the questions for you (to the best of my ability):

1.50v is safe on air. But keep the temps in line as well. NO more than 65*C under full Orthos / OCCT load.
The overclock is dependant on your chip, and your chip alone. Your mileage WILL vary from others, even if they're the same stepping and week. So far you've done VERY well







.

RAM:
Sounds like you're actually running them SLIGHTLY tighter than stock. That's okay. But if you're pushing for a higher CPU speed, you'd probably want them slightly looser...closer to stock speeds. Just change the option to manual in BIOS and change them till they match up with CPUz. Take notes of what settings are what in CPUz and your BIOS (hand write or print them)...that way you don't have to reset your CMOS too often before you get it right







.


so what setting should i be entering into BIOS?
*SPD ones?* = 3 / 3 / 3 / 8 / ? / ? / ?
or...
*Memory Ones?* = 2.5 / 3 / 3 / 7 / 10 / 2T / 16

When you say memory speed is tighter?...whats that mean?...
sorry for daft question...lol...
DDR400's stock speed is 200MHz?...
Mine are running as DDR333's (under BIOS), but OC'd from 166MHz to 192 MHz...
so is the memory not already running under stock speeds of DDR400's?
OR
does the FSB thing that is set to *241* mean the RAM is running at OC'd speeds?
_this is why i have avoid memory OC all together so far...!...lol_

as for volts...i can't go higher than 1.4v!
need to do the vcore mod with a solder iron!...not that brave!
just wondering how high people have got with just using stock volts OR 1.4v...

there is always the A8N32-SLI Deluxe is a blow up the current MB...
BUT...that A8N32-SLI Deluxe is prety dam expensive for an "older" board!

as for current performance....
_3d05 v130 - 15,753 / 3886
3d06 v110 - 11,208 / 4740 / 6245 / 2174_
are these scores any good?
_i have asked in the benchmark thread, but got ZERO feedback what so ever...but seeing how people read the threads on this bit and come back to you on here, might as well ask...lol







_


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I don't know, G.O.

I run the same motherboard as pio does, and mine is smooth and easy (I've actually had two of these; this is the second one, after the first went kaput and I RMAed it and was given a brand new one). I've run at least three or four different RAM kits/types on it, as well, and every single time it's been an easy, solid, capable board, no matter what type of RAM I run with it..

Of course, I don't run my CPU anywhere near the edge of its capability. But that's because I prefer rock-solid reliability over outright speed.









For what it's worth, pio, I'll take pictures of my BIOS settings for you tomorrow. Expect them in the afternoon. I'm beat right now and fighting a bit of a cold.







I'm assuming that your RAM (DDR500) is also based on Infineon BE-5/CE-5 ICs like mine are, so we ought to have close-enough equivalent RAM settings.

Another person to ask about this board is veedub; he actually runs a modded BIOS on his (I've never tried that BIOS on my board).

Alright, gents, off to bed I go.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Valllldondo* 
so what setting should i be entering into BIOS?
*SPD ones?* = 3 / 3 / 3 / 8 / ? / ? / ?
or...
*Memory Ones?* = 2.5 / 3 / 3 / 7 / 10 / 2T / 16

When you say memory speed is tighter?...whats that mean?...
sorry for daft question...lol...
DDR400's stock speed is 200MHz?...
Mine are running as DDR333's (under BIOS), but OC'd from 166MHz to 192 MHz...
so is the memory not already running under stock speeds of DDR400's?
OR
does the FSB thing that is set to *241* mean the RAM is running at OC'd speeds?
_this is why i have avoid memory OC all together so far...!...lol_

as for volts...i can't go higher than 1.4v!
need to do the vcore mod with a solder iron!...not that brave!
just wondering how high people have got with just using stock volts OR 1.4v...

as for current performance....
_3d05 v130 - 15,753 / 3886
3d06 v110 - 11,208 / 4740 / 6245 / 2174_
are these scores any good?
_i have asked in the benchmark thread, but got ZERO feedback what so ever...but seeing how people read threads and come to you on here, might as well ask...lol







_

Alright, here we go:

Enter the SPD memory settings (stock timings of 3-3-3-8-2T) to eliminate RAM as an instability. Tighten later.
Tighter memory means that those timings are smaller numbers. Smaller numbers = tighter timings. As bigger numbers = looser timings. You want your timings loose when finding your CPU's max speed. Then you want to tighten them as tight as possible and keeping them stable. But you also want them to be as fast as possible (MHz wise).
Correct. DDR400 = 200MHz (x2 = DDR = Double Data Rate)
Correct again. When you up your HT clock (FSB), that also ups your RAM speed. Hence why in BIOS it says 333MHz (might even say 166 as that's the real speed), but in CPUz it shows 192. That means you're running at DDR384...which is pretty darn close to stock speeds. Hence why you want your timings close to or at stock timings FOR NOW.
If 1.40v is your max, well then that's your max







. Nothing you can really do short of a vmod like you said. And I don't blame you...I'm not that brave either.
As for your benchmark scores....those are EXCELLENT for an aging 939 setup. My sig rig (will change it back to "The Beast here in a second...so ignore "Guest gamer") scores 11129 in 3DMark06 at my MAXIMUM stable overclock of 3.0GHz on the CPU, and 752/1052/1916 on the card. So yes, those scores are really quite good considering your CPU is 100MHz slower than mine was at the time of my bench runs.

If we can help you get that CPU and memory fine tuned a little better, your benchmark scores may just go up a few more points as well. However I really don't listen to benchmark scores...as they're mainly CPU tests anymore to be perfectly honest. All that matters is how well it performs FOR YOU in REAL WORLD applications and games







. If you're happy with your rig...than those benchmark scores are nothing more than e-peen







.

Hope this helped to solve a few of your issues and questions. If you need more help...don't hesitate to ask. Someone in this club WILL more than likely know the answer







.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I don't know, G.O.

I run the same motherboard as pio does, and mine is smooth and easy (I've actually had two of these; this is the second one, after the first went kaput and I RMAed it and was given a brand new one). I've run at least three or four different RAM kits/types on it, as well, and every single time it's been an easy, solid, capable board, no matter what type of RAM I run with it..

Of course, I don't run my CPU anywhere near the edge of its capability. But that's because I prefer rock-solid reliability over outright speed.









For what it's worth, pio, I'll take pictures of my BIOS settings for you tomorrow. Expect them in the afternoon. I'm beat right now and fighting a bit of a cold.







I'm assuming that your RAM (DDR500) is also based on Infineon BE-5/CE-5 ICs like mine are, so we ought to have close-enough equivalent RAM settings.

Another person to ask about this board is veedub; he actually runs a modded BIOS on his (I've never tried that BIOS on my board).

Alright, gents, off to bed I go.









Thanks joe...much appreciated







. I hope you get better soon. I'm fighting of newmonia (I know spelling isn't right). So I know how you feel. It's going around quite bad around here, don't know about Cali though. Its odd...having cold like - symptoms in the middle of summer, isn't it?

And honestly...I'm STILL wondering if maybe my motherboard is just got some messed up DRAM slots to be perfectly honest. I've NEVER had this much trouble getting RAM to even run AT STOCK SPEEDS on any of our other motherboards in this house. Heck that "cheapo" Jetway board I got from joe hits 266MHz on my Hyper X sticks. RAM can't POSSIBLY be THIS hard to dial in like my motherboard seems to make it out to be.

And yes joe:
I do believe our overclocks should be quite similar. I'm running 312 HT Clock currently to make 2.8GHz. I couldn't handle the extra vcore with summer temps coming on..so I went to my overclock / undervolt settings







. And if I go to the 166 divider, it puts my RAM at 255MHz which SHOULD be close enough that it'd still run at specs.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

pio, one last word from me (LOL): Have you tried running your RAM on the other channel (i.e., the other pair of DIMM slots)? I actually run mine in the black slots.

That's not to say that there's a difference with this board, because I've never tested for it. (I put them there because I used to run a Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme, and there was better clearance with the tall Mushkins in the black slots) I never switched back to the blue slots.

Incidentally, on my DFI LANParty UT nF4 Ultra-D, it does make a difference which pair of DIMM slots you put your RAM in. For some reason, RAM played nicer when they were seated in the orange channel...


----------



## RSXHiTMAN

lol i noticed the tags are hilarious


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I don't know, G.O.

I run the same motherboard as pio does, and mine is smooth and easy (I've actually had two of these; this is the second one, after the first went kaput and I RMAed it and was given a brand new one). I've run at least three or four different RAM kits/types on it, as well, and every single time it's been an easy, solid, capable board, no matter what type of RAM I run with it..

Of course, I don't run my CPU anywhere near the edge of its capability. But that's because I prefer rock-solid reliability over outright speed.









For what it's worth, pio, I'll take pictures of my BIOS settings for you tomorrow. Expect them in the afternoon. I'm beat right now and fighting a bit of a cold.







I'm assuming that your RAM (DDR500) is also based on Infineon BE-5/CE-5 ICs like mine are, so we ought to have close-enough equivalent RAM settings.

Another person to ask about this board is veedub; he actually runs a modded BIOS on his (I've never tried that BIOS on my board).

Alright, gents, off to bed I go.









Thats whats odd, I have read 20 pages of this Mobo. They either work perfect or people have nothing but RAM issues. I wish I could be more help Pio. I am interested in seeing Joe's pic's of his BIOS.

Doh!...get better Joe. Drink plenty of OJ


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
pio, one last word from me (LOL): Have you tried running your RAM on the other channel (i.e., the other pair of DIMM slots)? I actually run mine in the black slots.

That's not to say that there's a difference with this board, because I've never tested for it. (I put them there because I used to run a Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme, and there was better clearance with the tall Mushkins in the black slots) I never switched back to the blue slots.

Incidentally, on my DFI LANParty UT nF4 Ultra-D, it does make a difference which pair of DIMM slots you put your RAM in. For some reason, RAM played nicer when they were seated in the orange channel...









Negative good sir. I've ALWAYS used the same slots. Checking now......always used the blue slots.

So you think maybe that's my issue?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

@ G.O.: If I forget to post the BIOS screenshots tomorrow afternoon, I authorize you to brutalize me per your duties as the Brute Squad.

@ pio: It's an easy experiment to try, switching DIMM slots. It's not like you have to reseat a heatsink or something.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Negative good sir. I've ALWAYS used the same slots. Checking now......always used the blue slots.

So you think maybe that's my issue?

hope it works

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
@ G.O.: If I forget to post the BIOS screenshots tomorrow afternoon, I authorize you to brutalize me per your duties as the Brute Squad.

@ pio: It's an easy experiment to try, switching DIMM slots. It's not like you have to reseat a heatsink or something.









aye! Cap'n!.......I'll swab thee deck with yar toes!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Alrighty, as soon as I'm done installing OS's to it, I'll load up CPUz and OCCT on her, and give it a go. Currently sitting on my Pentium D rig right now, as mine is down for maintenance. I kinda permafried my OS last time I tried tinkering with my RAM a day or two ago. Windows Explorer WOULD NOT start...no matter what. But I figure, if I permafry my OS again...oh well! It was already a fresh install to begin with. And since I'll be tinkering with my OC...I'll have to reinstall again anyway. It seems my install always gets choppy after I've tinkered with settings (cough RAM cough). So once I find it stable, I'll have to reformat...AGAIN!

But yes, tonite I should be trying the black slots with any luck.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Alrighty, as soon as I'm done installing OS's to it, I'll load up CPUz and OCCT on her, and give it a go. Currently sitting on my Pentium D rig right now, as mine is down for maintenance. I kinda permafried my OS last time I tried tinkering with my RAM a day or two ago. Windows Explorer WOULD NOT start...no matter what. But I figure, if I permafry my OS again...oh well! It was already a fresh install to begin with. And since I'll be tinkering with my OC...I'll have to reinstall again anyway. It seems my install always gets choppy after I've tinkered with settings (cough RAM cough). So once I find it stable, I'll have to reformat...AGAIN!

But yes, tonite I should be trying the black slots with any luck.


I do that weekly







At some point every week I try to push things too far and Windows will not load. I unplug everything and reset BIOS and boom! she's back up and running.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well its not a matter of Windows not loading...its the fact that I tweaked my RAM just a wee bit too much and corrupted something. This same exact thing happened last time I tried to recreate my suicide run found in my sig, lol. So anymore, just to be on the safe side, I'll be just reformatting after I do major tweaks in BIOS. I'm hoping I can find a happy and stable 24/7 overclock on this stupid thing, and be done with it (yeah....that'll happen....with me).

However THIS TIME....I'll be using Acronis True Image Home to make a backup image onto some DVD's. That way all I'll have to reinstall is games. But I'm not doing that until AFTER my overclock is settled. I don't want to waste DVD's...they're expensive to me and I only have enough to Image my machine and Froggy's (which is waiting on her fresh legit install until she gets RAM).


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Well its not a matter of Windows not loading...its the fact that I tweaked my RAM just a wee bit too much and corrupted something. This same exact thing happened last time I tried to recreate my suicide run found in my sig, lol. So anymore, just to be on the safe side, I'll be just reformatting after I do major tweaks in BIOS. I'm hoping I can find a happy and stable 24/7 overclock on this stupid thing, and be done with it (yeah....that'll happen....with me).

However THIS TIME....I'll be using Acronis True Image Home to make a backup image onto some DVD's. That way all I'll have to reinstall is games. But I'm not doing that until AFTER my overclock is settled. I don't want to waste DVD's...they're expensive to me and I only have enough to Image my machine and Froggy's (which is waiting on her fresh legit install until she gets RAM).


gotcha, yeah I've done that a time or a dozen









I'm pretty happy with my OC now. I have the HT at 378 and RAM at DDR504. It seems to chugging along better now that I removed the top of the CPU. BTW I went from being ranked in the 900's to the 600's in [email protected] That GPU folding is insane!


----------



## pioneerisloud

I want to give it a try, but I don't want to have to shut [email protected] down any time I want to game. Can I leave it going all the time like you can CPU folding, and it still only uses idle priority...which means I could still game with it on and nothing be affected?


----------



## GuardianOdin

I hardly ever game anymore so it's a lot easier for me. I normally turn off the CPU folding as well if I game.

I'd like to be able to build a second rig with 2-3 8800GT's just for folding if that possible.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


I hardly ever game anymore so it's a lot easier for me. I normally turn off the CPU folding as well if I game.

I'd like to be able to build a second rig with 2-3 8800GT's just for folding if that possible.


for now it can only use one GPU per computer









I went from rank ~750 to about rank ~650 since the GPU client came out for NVidia.

So I have a doctor's appointment today, I had to come in to work with my mom since I'm seeing a doctor just across the street. I had to wake up at 5:15 and we left at 5:45!!! CRAZY! I did get breakfast here though









So she went to a meeting and left me to her computer in her office. The hospital buys every doctor at least on of these, and then they have some SUN Microsystems linux systems that they use for simulations or something fancy like that. I went to run and typed DXDIAG (directX diagnostic). turns out she has a Q6600 and 2GB of ram with a nice lil' old HD2400







...

ALL AT STOCK





































(They're also throwing out a pair of SUN microsystems CRT monitors that weigh like 40 pounds each, I want to take them home







)


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


for now it can only use one GPU per computer









I went from rank ~750 to about rank ~650 since the GPU client came out for NVidia.

So I have a doctor's appointment today, I had to come in to work with my mom since I'm seeing a doctor just across the street. I had to wake up at 5:15 and we left at 5:45!!! CRAZY! I did get breakfast here though









So she went to a meeting and left me to her computer in her office. The hospital buys every doctor at least on of these, and then they have some SUN Microsystems linux systems that they use for simulations or something fancy like that. I went to run and typed DXDIAG (directX diagnostic). turns out she has a Q6600 and 2GB of ram with a nice lil' old HD2400







...

ALL AT STOCK





































(They're also throwing out a pair of SUN microsystems CRT monitors that weigh like 40 pounds each, I want to take them home







)


I'll love it when they I can run multiple GPU's

Overclock their PC's! lol


----------



## nategr8ns

its got some strict thing and I don't think I can even download anything without getting caught.

My mom has to leave the computer on at night though, so I'm wondering if at night they run some large-scale simulations like folding using all the computers.


----------



## pioneerisloud

See I'm just worried that if I try to start running the GPU client, I won't be able to game anymore while its running







. I HATE shutting down my folding clients for anything. I prefer to just leave them running when my rig is on.

Nate...do you happen to know if the GPU client hurts framerates if its running?


----------



## nategr8ns

I game while its running, I can't really notice it (although for some reason at high AA GRID sort of speeds up and slows down at times, possibly caused by [email protected] GPU)

I think its worth making a desktop shortcut, and just closing it for games and opening it afterwards. Try leaving it running during games for a day, and see if your gameplay gets laggier.


----------



## GuardianOdin

oh yeah, If I'm running [email protected] on my 8800GT. I can barely watch a movie let alone game. I may buy some cheap 939 parts and use it for [email protected] only.


----------



## Valllldondo

mad question....

My CPU is stable at about 2.90 GHz....(ish)
whats better?
*2800x13 & FSB 200* - _(is this possible even if stable at 2.90 on x12?)_
*2400x12 & FSB 240*
*2200x11 & FSB 250+*


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well the higher front side bus would prove to be a "better" option by some standards. However considering your lack of overclocking options in BIOS...I'd suggest you stick to your default multiplier and just work from there







.


----------



## nategr8ns

I agree with Pio







, higher CPU clocks before FSB clocks.

guys, check this out:









That's the fastest upload connection I've seen in Maine









edit: for some reason, speedtest says that the test has been run lots of times before







. Max upload speed recorded is 16898kb/s







!
and download speed is maxed at about 20k


----------



## GuardianOdin

woot! fancy schmancy!


----------



## nategr8ns

at home I'm lucky if I get a thousand kb/s









(jk, i need to run a test when I get home)


----------



## GuardianOdin

mine is 2.5k download and 750k upload. But Verizon advertises it as 3M download and 1m upload....dang liars!


----------



## pioneerisloud

I dunno, we get pretty darn close to our rated speeds here. 10Mb down, 1Mb up. We're within 50k or so of each.


----------



## Valllldondo

*2800x13 & FSB 200 *- would that not work or is it dangerous to components?

IF the FSB can only go to *240* stable...
would having a higher multi and leaving the memory speeds at stock have less strain on the memory and FSB?...allowing for a more stable OC?

eg *2800x13 & FSB 205* VS *2400x12 FSB 240*
would it not result in similar CPU speed but a more stable oc?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Valllldondo*


*2800x13 & FSB 200 *- would that not work or is it dangerous to components?

IF the FSB can only go to *240* stable...
would having a higher multi and leaving the memory speeds at stock have less strain on the memory and FSB?...allowing for a more stable OC?

eg *2800x13 & FSB 205* VS *2400x12 FSB 240*
would it not result in similar CPU speed but a more stable oc?


You shouldn't be able to adjust your CPU's multiplier HIGHER than stock settings. You can lower it, sure. But these chips are half locked, meaning they can't adjust higher. Only the FX series can do that







.


----------



## Valllldondo

bit mince...lol...who thought of that idea at AMD!...
thought i was onto a winner there...









ummm...
reduce pcie..._(i take it if thats too high it cause crashes and stuff on windows?)_
enter manual stock memory timings...
try increase fsb now the PCIE things is redcued...
after that...its a new motherboard...lol
OR...solder iron time!


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I dunno, we get pretty darn close to our rated speeds here. 10Mb down, 1Mb up. We're within 50k or so of each.


you realise 50k is about 2.5times the TOTAL SPEED of this hospital's internet connection?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Valllldondo*


bit mince...lol...who thought of that idea at AMD!...
thought i was onto a winner there...









ummm...
reduce pcie..._(i take it if thats too high it cause crashes and stuff on windows?)_
enter manual stock memory timings...
try increase fsb now the PCIE things is redcued...
after that...its a new motherboard...lol
OR...solder iron time!


PCI-e that's too high can burn out your PCI-e slots and any components plugged into them (graphics cards are the most important







)

The way the processor stuff works is this:
FSB (aka the processors "external clock") times Multiplier (hence the name) equals the CPU Clock (or "internet clock")


----------



## Valllldondo

whats the purpose of the pcie speed bit anyways if all it does is wreck gear when turned higher!?...lol

ps - glad i came on this thread about the bios settings!
the AMD motherboard section just overlooked or missed out that the pcie was at 120!


----------



## nategr8ns

it increases the amount of clocks per cycle or something.
wait for anybody except me to read that post


----------



## Blitz6804

Good news and bad news:

Good news: As I am sure you all noticed, I am making a point to use my PC more even though I am still at my parents' house, meaning I am here more than I used to be.

Bad news: yesterday, my motherboard tried to commit seppuku again. It would not POST at the settings I have been running fine for months. I cleared the CMOS and am currently running at stock with one caveat: 5 of the 8 USB ports are dead. DEAD. As in, no way, no how, not happening. Anything plugged into them yields "USB Device Not Recognized."

Looks like I am going to have to RMA her again. (-_-)


----------



## nategr8ns

so when you plug it in, it realizes that you plugged something in?
as in the info gets corrupted somewhere between the port and you?


----------



## Blitz6804

As in, unless I plug USB devices into one of three ports, I might as well not plug them in. The first time my MoBo died, I lost most of the USB ports, than the LAN port, then the everything. I did not know about overclockability because it was not overclocked.

Given past record, give it another few months and the LAN will die. I gotta get my hands on RMA first.


----------



## trueg50

Does any one else have issues with A8N-SLI Deluxe RAID controllers?

I have been through 4 or 5 boards with the RAID controller dying, and it just drives me nuts. Worst of all, this is for a server of sorts, I can't recreate the array on another computer, and downtime is a no no.


----------



## nategr8ns

My lan had this weird way of acting up for a while. It would stop working 20 minutes after boot up, so if I wanted to access the internet I had to restart







(I used a PCI addon card for a while)
it's working now though, for some strange reason









So absolutely nothing happens? If it yields "USB Device Not Recognized." then something is still happening...

trueg, most people on these forums frown upon anything onboard. I for one am fine with onboard sound, lan, et cetera, but I have never even tried onboard RAID (or addon RAID for that matter).

How cheap are addon raid cards?


----------



## Blitz6804

Most people use onboard RAID nate if they use RAID at all. Cards range from $40 to $5000.


----------



## trueg50

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


trueg, most people on these forums frown upon anything onboard. I for one am fine with onboard sound, lan, et cetera, but I have never even tried onboard RAID (or addon RAID for that matter).

How cheap are addon raid cards?


Yea, I am using onboard RAID on my sig rig, and have used it on my 680I board, so I have some experience with it.

However this is for a college club, so money is tight. Right now I am starting to research RAID Cards. For ones that will give good performance, they are +$150, however I am looking into a Tyan server board, and slapping a RAID adaptor of sorts in and using that.

EDIT: I looked it up, the cards are something like $100 for a 4 SATA port card, so I might just get this board and get a 2 port PCI-E adaptor ($30-40).


----------



## Blitz6804

Do your research carefully; most PCI/PCI-E cards are slower RAIDs than integrated RAID controllers.


----------



## trueg50

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Do your research carefully; most PCI/PCI-E cards are slower RAIDs than integrated RAID controllers.

Yea, I don't really care about speed too much, I just need something that will work, and will not break as much as this motherboards RAID controller.

As a bonus, if the motherboard dies (again) I can just move the controller and hard drives to a new computer.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *trueg50* 
Does any one else have issues with A8N-SLI Deluxe RAID controllers?

I have been through 4 or 5 boards with the RAID controller dying, and it just drives me nuts. Worst of all, this is for a server of sorts, I can't recreate the array on another computer, and downtime is a no no.

Trueg, you've been through 5 A8N-SLI boards with bad raid controllers? Where these machines overclocked?

Good luck


----------



## Valllldondo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Alright, here we go:

Enter the SPD memory settings (stock timings of 3-3-3-8-2T) to eliminate RAM as an instability.







.









right...under BIOS..

memory clock - DDR 200 / 266 / 333 / 400 _(currently at 333 as does not boot on 400)_
CAS latency - 3t
TRAS - 8t
TRP - ?
TRCD - ?
TRRD - ?
TRC - ?
MA Timings - 2t ?
Burst Length - ?
Bank Interleaving - ?
Memory Hole - ?

could you fill in the gabs chaps?...lol


----------



## nategr8ns

TRP 3
TRCD 3
TRRD 3?
TRC ?
Burst length, bank interleaving, and Memory hole you can set to auto I think


----------



## trueg50

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Trueg, you've been through 5 A8N-SLI boards with bad raid controllers? Where these machines overclocked?

Good luck


Not me personally.

The machine has been running stock, and before me it was run by 2 other club members. The last time it was RMA'd was a dead RAID controller, and the one I got back from RMA's RAID controller also died after about 2 months use.

The other folks had the board just die once, and I am not sure about the other time.

I am a little suspicious of the PSU though considering the failure rate.


----------



## Blitz6804

I know this is a silly question, but it is plugged into a surge suppressor right? And the drives, are they the same ones every time, or have you tried making the RAID with a different set?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *trueg50*


Not me personally.

The machine has been running stock, and before me it was run by 2 other club members. The last time it was RMA'd was a dead RAID controller, and the one I got back from RMA's RAID controller also died after about 2 months use.

The other folks had the board just die once, and I am not sure about the other time.

I am a little suspicious of the PSU though considering the failure rate.


Trueg, perhaps that was a bad batch of A8N-SLI boards that had faulty raid controllers. What are the specifications of the power supply? (model/brand)

Good luck


----------



## Anqt31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *trueg50*


Does any one else have issues with A8N-SLI Deluxe RAID controllers?

I have been through 4 or 5 boards with the RAID controller dying, and it just drives me nuts. Worst of all, this is for a server of sorts, I can't recreate the array on another computer, and downtime is a no no.


When I first got my board, I had troubles with the raid drivers for a while. I had to go onto the asus website and get the newest drivers. They were irratating, but once fixed, the problems were gone.


----------



## Valllldondo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


TRP 3
TRCD 3
TRRD 3?
TRC ?
Burst length, bank interleaving, and Memory hole you can set to auto I think


right...edit BIOS with the following bellow....

under memory tab i have:
CAS CL = 2.0
TRCD = 2
TRP = 2
TRAS = 8 _(edit - typo..lol)_
TRC = 10
CR = 1t
DRAM Frq is still 192 MHz

windows booting up..no crashes...
surely the memory is not OC'd!?!

_edit - just did a CS-Source benchmark..its gone from 206 to 224!?
with no OC on card....(as i cani figure out how to!)
but...does memory timings increase a FPS score that much?!?!
am i in danger of blowing up my pc with those settings?!_


----------



## Blitz6804

I have no idea how your computer is running with a tRAS of 2...

When I had my Corsairs, I ran at:

CL = 2.0
tRCD = 3
tRP = 3
tRAS = 6
tRC = 11
tRFC = 14
CR = 1t
Frq = 196

tRAS should be a much larger number than the other timings. tRC should be tRP+tRAS, and tRFC should be tRC+3. (Setting tRC further from tRP+tRAS improves stability. When my RAM was on death's door, it was only stable at 17+.)


----------



## nategr8ns

he just edited his tRAS to 8









2 is a really good CL! I haven't tried for less than 3 on my new ram yet (at 500mhz though)


----------



## Valllldondo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I have no idea how your computer is running with a tRAS of 2...

When I had my Corsairs, I ran at:

CL = 2.0
tRCD = 3
tRP = 3
tRAS = 6
tRC = 11
tRFC = 14
CR = 1t
Frq = 196

tRAS should be a much larger number than the other timings. tRC should be tRP+tRAS, and tRFC should be tRC+3. (Setting tRC further from tRP+tRAS improves stability. When my RAM was on death's door, it was only stable at 17+.)


typo error..lol
is what i have ok now then or have i gone to far?


----------



## Blitz6804

If it is stable, it is good.

AMD tend to perform better with tight timings at the expense of lower FSBs.

Granted, I am sure you could likely run DDR 500 at 3-4-4-10 if you wanted, but you would likely get worse performance.


----------



## trueg50

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Anqt31* 
When I first got my board, I had troubles with the raid drivers for a while. I had to go onto the asus website and get the newest drivers. They were irratating, but once fixed, the problems were gone.

The BIOS and RAID setup won't even detect that I have drives.









~200 gb of games.. gone...

Fortunately I had ~100 gb backed-up.

Right now I am looking into a nice server board with a dedicated RAID card. However I do still want to stick with Socket 939


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *trueg50* 
The BIOS and RAID setup won't even detect that I have drives.









~200 gb of games.. gone...

Fortunately I had ~100 gb backed-up.

Right now I am looking into a nice server board with a dedicated RAID card. However I do still want to stick with Socket 939









Trueg, ouch sounds like you had a RAID 0 array instead of a RAID 1. Now you know why mirroring is more important









What is your budget for a server? What are you planning on doing with it?

Good luck


----------



## Valllldondo

right..thats the CPU and memory OC'd!...merci all...
i am CPU validated again with a decent rug...lol..i think....

right...
now to find some one that knows how to OC a Dual GPU graphics card!


----------



## Blitz6804

Mine is overclocked. Catalyst control center is the fastest and easiest way to do it. 'Auto' is the way to go in my opinion. It will increase clock by 5 MHz, test, increase by 5 MHz, test, et cetera until it finds the ideal clock. Then do the same with the memory.

Simple; painless overclocking.


----------



## boonie2

Does anyone know of a site that shows what chips different memory manufacturers use in their memory ? i.e ocz , g-shil ,mushkin , corsair etc? the reason im asking is I got a set of Mushkin preformance ram ddr500 today and CPUZ and EVEREST both show them as pc3200 ddr400 , trying to see if someone pulled the heatspreader trick on me







thanks


----------



## Blitz6804

Mushkin does not put a 250 MHz entry in the SPD. The highest (only in fact) SPD entry is 200 MHz.


----------



## boonie2

the same for EVEREST? only detects them as pc3200 ddr400 ?


----------



## Valllldondo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Mine is overclocked. Catalyst control center is the fastest and easiest way to do it. 'Auto' is the way to go in my opinion. It will increase clock by 5 MHz, test, increase by 5 MHz, test, et cetera until it finds the ideal clock. Then do the same with the memory.

Simple; painless overclocking.

i have tried:
ATI Overdrive Under CCC - it increases the clocks and comes up with new OC under GPUZ....but it desn't increase ANY of my FPS in games...

The AMD tool does nothing...
Riva does nothing...
ATI Tool doesn't even launch...

i take it thats not supposed to happen...lol
CCS sitting at 225.14 FPS with no OC on graphics card...
sometimes OC'n it takes down to 223 FPS?!?!?

this is a frsh install of XP pro on SP3 using 8.5 drivers...
done 3 fresh installs of XP just incase...
nada...


----------



## Valllldondo

ignore last thread!...lol

maddness hour for me!

well thank you all...
i have manged to increase my 3dmark 06:
11,410 / 4853 / 6463 / 2189

so..the memory timings and stuff must have helped!


----------



## Blitz6804

You must ATI Tool beta in order to have support for the 3xxx series. Talk to Thlnk3r, he had some luck with his PCI-E 3850. I just used Auto-Tune on my AGP 3850.

Yes, you can make FPS go down. That is what happened to me when I did the OC on my own.

And yes Boonie, EVEREST also shows my RAM as PC-3200. It is PC-4000 though, trust me. (EVEREST and CPU-Z both read from the SPD.)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Valllldondo*


ATI Tool doesn't even launch...


Valllldondo, make sure your using ATITool version 0.27. It can be downloaded by going here: http://www.softpedia.com/get/Tweak/V.../ATITool.shtml

I personally did not like 0.27 because it locked up my machine quite often. Version 0.26 was a lot more stable.

Good luck


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


You must ATI Tool beta in order to have support for the 3xxx series. Talk to Thlnk3r, he had some luck with his PCI-E 3850. I just used Auto-Tune on my AGP 3850.

Yes, you can make FPS go down. That is what happened to me when I did the OC on my own.

And yes Boonie, EVEREST also shows my RAM as PC-3200. It is PC-4000 though, trust me. (EVEREST and CPU-Z both read from the SPD.)










rep thanks Blitz


----------



## nategr8ns

guys I'm having some troubles, but don't feel like making a new thread for it









When I try to change clocks with ATItool, my screens both go crazy with artifacts on everything, mostly magenta and cyan type things, like weird static or a bad signal on old TV or something. when I try to open FurMark I get a lockup for ~20 seconds and then I get a quick BSOD and an instant restart.
Having EVGA precision open makes everything lag, even if I set it to "belownormal" priority.
Is my video card dying or something? It is EVGA so I can RMA it, but I would have to remove my cooler and ramsinks :\\

Any ideas?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
Does anyone know of a site that shows what chips different memory manufacturers use in their memory ? i.e ocz , g-shil ,mushkin , corsair etc? the reason im asking is I got a set of Mushkin preformance ram ddr500 today and CPUZ and EVEREST both show them as pc3200 ddr400 , trying to see if someone pulled the heatspreader trick on me







thanks

Some clarification is in order.

For DDR, JEDEC specifies a peak spec of DDR400. This takes into account only STOCK reference clocks (200MHz on the HTT Clock/FSB), where the RAM frequency runs 1:1 with the reference clock. By definition, anything over the stock reference clock is an overclock, and JEDEC standards do not extend to overclocked settings.

Here is a breakdown of JEDEC's DDR SDRAM Standard Frequencies:

DDR200 = 100MHz x 2 = PC1600
DDR266 = 133MHz x 2 = PC2100
DDR333 = 166MHz x 2 = PC2700
DDR400 = 200MHz x 2 = PC3200
Click this link for a more complete description of JEDEC technical standards for DDR.

An interesting note from the following link: *All RAM speeds in-between or above these listed specifications are not standardized by JEDEC - most often they are simply manufacturer optimizations using higher-tolerance or overvolted chips.*

RAM manufacturers that produce RAM with DDR ratings higher than any of the JEDEC standards are only required to program their SPD chips up to the JEDEC peak of DDR400. However, because of the price premium consumers pay for optimized RAM, most (if not all) RAM vendors who sell "overclocked RAM" such as DDR500 modules guarantee that their product can run up to that speed.

Note, too, that the RAM is not overclocked until the reference clock itself is overclocked, especially if the RAM runs 1:1 with the reference clock.

The fun begins, though, when the CPU frequency (which, of course, is the product of the CPU multiplier x the HTT Clock/"FSB") is much higher than what the RAM max clock potential is. You run a divider in these cases. What happens then is that the RAM clock is slowed down so that it can run in step with the CPU clock. And what might often happen is that you have to really underclock your RAM just to maintain your CPU speed up.

Here's a real world example: Let's say your CPU can run stable at 2.75GHz. You have DDR500-capable RAM. Let's say your RAM can only do 250MHz (exactly DDR500) maximum. Let's further say that you have a 10x CPU multiplier. Obviously, then, the HTT Clock needed at the default CPU multiplier setting (10x) is 25MHz greater than what the RAM max clock can do (250MHz).

You then useGogar's Athlon64 OC Optimizer (one of my favorite OCing tools) to find the best possible settings. (Incidentally, this is also why I insist on finding your various sub-systems' maximum potential speeds; you take the guessing game out of knowing what your parts can really do.)

Thorough stability testing will then be the final step, when you find out if your mix of settings will work.

Hope this long post helps, people.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
guys I'm having some troubles, but don't feel like making a new thread for it









When I try to change clocks with ATItool, my screens both go crazy with artifacts on everything, mostly magenta and cyan type things, like weird static or a bad signal on old TV or something. when I try to open FurMark I get a lockup for ~20 seconds and then I get a quick BSOD and an instant restart.
Having EVGA precision open makes everything lag, even if I set it to "belownormal" priority.
Is my video card dying or something? It is EVGA so I can RMA it, but I would have to remove my cooler and ramsinks :

Any ideas?

Nate, I believe the 8800GT SC (Superclocked) has already been "pre" overclocked at the factory as oppose to the stock 600/900 clocks. Perhaps that is the limit of *your* G92. I do know some were able to get the SC flashed to a KO model but that is strictly done at your own risk. What are the idle and load temps at stock SC clocks?

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I'm with thlnk3r here. It's very likely that the card is already very close to its limits. I doubt, though, that any permanent damage has been done.

What happens if/when you reset the card to its stock clocks?


----------



## boonie2




----------



## thlnk3r

Nate, just be careful when your doing artifact testing. I've had a card go bad due to "excessive" testing of that nature. In your case EVGA has an awesome RMA process so I'm almost positive you can return the card with no hassle.

Good luck


----------



## nategr8ns

core is at 43C with only folding running, but I'm pretty sure it can reach 55C ingame after a few hours
idle is ~35C

I think you guys misunderstand me, this is at STOCK! I haven't overclocked it (or had it overclocked, but my comp is too laggy to go back and erase that sentence







) because of problems since I got the 177.xx drivers.
I'm now using drivers officially supported by my card, and I still get the problem.

just tried an experiment, the lag that happens when I have a gpu-hardware-access program (ati tool or evga precision for example) goes away when I close my GPU FAH








looks like I can't leave it running any more :\\

about to try Furmark, going to see if it still BSODs me without folding running (I had forgotten about it for a while)


----------



## nategr8ns

sorry for double post, but








furmark now will open...
going to see if this also solves my other problems (why did I uninstall ATItool so hastily?!?)

edit: overclocking from 650/900? to 723/1020 gave me a slight increase of 8.4784254% in performance for a 60 second 1280x1024 no AA.
I guess it was my fault for leaving [email protected] running on my GPU this hole time









edit again: anybody want to find a GRID game online with me? I prefer the street-courses or drifting, not the Euro official courses


----------



## Anqt31

Got a treat for you guys. Temps run about 48C idle, 55C under load. Hope I didn't kill my CPU, oh well! It's been on four 4hrs and I've been playing Oblivion, so it's semi-stable. I finally got a new cpu cooler, a tuniq tower.


----------



## nategr8ns

woohoo!
so the tuniq yields better temps over whatever your last cooler was? What was your last cooler
















Holy freaken crap that said 3.3ghz!
Missed that the first time around!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


Got a treat for you guys. Temps run about 48C idle, 55C under load. Hope I didn't kill my CPU, oh well! It's been on four 4hrs and I've been playing Oblivion, so it's semi-stable. I finally got a new cpu cooler, a tuniq tower.


Nah, those temps won't kill your CPU.

I have an Opteron that's run at 3.2GHz and 75+ degrees C *sustained* at maximum load.







It still works today, actually.









Okay, pio, here are some BIOS screenshots for you.






















































For the record, this is for my Mushkin Redline XP4000 2 x 1GB kit (Infineon BE-5/BE-6 ICs, per my best guess).

BIOS version is 1405 (latest official BIOS).

Hope this helps you out, buddy!


----------



## vwgti

Just wanted to say hi guys and show off my new bits. Mobo will be here next week


----------



## nategr8ns

congratz vw


----------



## Blitz6804

Holy spit Anqt31! 3.3 GHz at 1.43 V?! That deserves some massive fluffles.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


Got a treat for you guys. Temps run about 48C idle, 55C under load. Hope I didn't kill my CPU, oh well! It's been on four 4hrs and I've been playing Oblivion, so it's semi-stable. I finally got a new cpu cooler, a tuniq tower.


geeez!...I don't like you anymore









great job!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Anqt!


----------



## trueg50

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Trueg, ouch sounds like you had a RAID 0 array instead of a RAID 1. Now you know why mirroring is more important









What is your budget for a server? What are you planning on doing with it?

Good luck









Nope, I was running 5 drives in RAID 5.

The budget is about under $100-$200, and it will primarily be used as a file server, then on occasion it will serve as a game server.

However some of the officials think that it would be better to just start over and do things right, with a conventional server board, modern dual core CPU, and DDR 2 ECC.

No word on what would be done with the board if we do get a new computer, however I am calling firstdibs as I have never overclocked a modern AMD CPU (2000+ Palomino FTW!)


----------



## Anqt31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
woohoo!
so the tuniq yields better temps over whatever your last cooler was? What was your last cooler
















Holy freaken crap that said 3.3ghz!
Missed that the first time around!




















































































































































































































My last cooler was stock, so anything is better!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Thanks joe! I'll give those settings a go once I get Windows working again so I can print those screens







. Currently in linux.....so hello everyone from linux!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Thanks joe! I'll give those settings a go once I get Windows working again so I can print those screens







. Currently in linux.....so hello everyone from linux!


get to it mister!







I wanna see if it's the Mobo or RAM.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


get to it mister!







I wanna see if it's the Mobo or RAM.


Getting on it now. Setting up my Windows install is somehow proving to be more of a pain than I thought! Still working on it though...I'm no longer in linux for now. Putting ALL of my spare time to getting Windows to working







.

And I'll also try the black slots out instead of the blue when I'm ready to do the testing







.


----------



## GuardianOdin

I sure hope the black slots prove better.


----------



## pioneerisloud

As do I. This issue is starting to tick me off quite badly. I mean c'mon! There's NO reason I shouldn't be able to enjoy stock speeds, right?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
As do I. This issue is starting to tick me off quite badly. I mean c'mon! There's NO reason I shouldn't be able to enjoy stock speeds, right?

Sure there is. I've had a set of DDR500 Corsairs that simply did NOT want to run at either tighter timings nor at DDR500, no matter what I tried. This set passed MemTest86+ runs and various other stress tests (OCCT Blend, Orthos Blend) except at anything close to or exceeding DDR500; it finally croaked when I wrung it through S&M. I tried to have this set RMAed through Corsair, but they had discontinued the kit, so they refunded me instead.

I disclosed everything to Corsair, and based on my description of all the problems they told me that the kit was defective out of the box. The RAM I bought was not able to meet Corsair's guarantee of hitting at list DDR500.

By the way, when you say "stock speeds," I hope you *don't* mean DDR500 because stock is only DDR400. The more precise terminology (per my lengthy post several posts up) is "guaranteed capable," per the manufacturer (the manufacturer guarantees it's capable of at least DDR500).


----------



## nategr8ns

all this talk of RAM is confusing me... Why did timings even have to be invented















joe, too bad they didn't have any 600mhz ddr ram left in stock









My cooling dilemma is still here. No fish are biting at my wanted thread, and I don't want to pay ~60 for an air cooler... Is there any real difference between the TR SI-128 and the SE version?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
all this talk of RAM is confusing me... Why did timings even have to be invented















joe, too bad they didn't have any 600mhz ddr ram left in stock









I'm with you, nate. RAM tweaking is the most mysterious part of OCing for me too. There's no shortcut to doing RAM tweaks, either; you either go in wanting to test each setting for performance and stability, or you set it on Auto and hope that that will be enough.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
My cooling dilemma is still here. No fish are biting at my wanted thread, and I don't want to pay ~60 for an air cooler... Is there any real difference between the TR SI-128 and the SE version?

Is there a difference in performance? I used to have the "vanilla" SI-128, but thlnk3r has that part now. It performed well enough for me. I suspect that the SI-128SE, though, is likely a few degrees better. Here's the basis for my comparison: Using similar fans (a 100+ CFM 120mm x 38mm) in roughly the same ambients and in the same case, the "vanilla" SI-128 is inferior to an Ultra 120 Extreme by maybe three or four degrees C at maximum load; in contrast, the SI-128SE is sometimes able to match the Ultra 120 Extreme's best performance (i.e., the maximum temperatures observed with the SI-128SE are identical, nominally 57 degrees C at a super-hot ambient of 38 degrees C in my bedroom), depending on the specific fan I use. I think the SI-128SE also has a few more fins, though I'm not entirely sure; the perforations in the fins also supposedly make the SI-128SE quieter than the "vanilla" SI-128.

Here's my take: I'll take the SI-128SE over even the Ultra 120 Extreme for my gaming rig.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Anqt31* 
Got a treat for you guys. Temps run about 48C idle, 55C under load. Hope I didn't kill my CPU, oh well! It's been on four 4hrs and I've been playing Oblivion, so it's semi-stable. I finally got a new cpu cooler, a tuniq tower.

Anqt, that is an amazing OC for a Manchester core. What is the vcore listed in the BIOS and in Everest (if you have it). I know with CPU-Z anything above 1.45volts in the BIOS and the application will sometimes display an incorrect reading.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *trueg50* 
Nope, I was running 5 drives in RAID 5.

The budget is about under $100-$200, and it will primarily be used as a file server, then on occasion it will serve as a game server.

However some of the officials think that it would be better to just start over and do things right, with a conventional server board, modern dual core CPU, and DDR 2 ECC.

No word on what would be done with the board if we do get a new computer, however I am calling firstdibs as I have never overclocked a modern AMD CPU (2000+ Palomino FTW!)

Trueg, did you have only controller failure or was it also drive failure?

Good luck


----------



## trueg50

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Trueg, did you have only controller failure or was it also drive failure?

Good luck









lol, thanks!

It was the entire controller, as in, enter BIOS or RAID menu and just blank, then in the RAID menu it would freeze after 10 seconds, or 3-4 keyboard movements.

Does any one know of any good Socket 939 server boards?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *trueg50* 
lol, thanks!

It was the entire controller, as in, enter BIOS or RAID menu and just blank, then in the RAID menu it would freeze after 10 seconds, or 3-4 keyboard movements.

Does any one know of any good Socket 939 server boards?

I do believe the A8N32-SLI Deluxe might come as a good recommendation perhaps. I know I've NEVER had any problems with mine (other than my RAM woes...but its ALWAYS been that way since day one for me).


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *trueg50* 
lol, thanks!

It was the entire controller, as in, enter BIOS or RAID menu and just blank, then in the RAID menu it would freeze after 10 seconds, or 3-4 keyboard movements.

Does any one know of any good Socket 939 server boards?

For a pure server board, I'd take a look at a Tyan Tomcat K8E-SLI. Interestingly, it's also SLI-capable (?).

It's on sale, too. Now I'm really curious about this board...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *trueg50* 
lol, thanks!

It was the entire controller, as in, enter BIOS or RAID menu and just blank, then in the RAID menu it would freeze after 10 seconds, or 3-4 keyboard movements.

Does any one know of any good Socket 939 server boards?

Trueg, if you can find the same board with the same controller then you should be able to retrieve the data. Even if it's the same family controller that may also work too.

Just something to think about


----------



## Anqt31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Anqt, that is an amazing OC for a Manchester core. What is the vcore listed in the BIOS and in Everest (if you have it). I know with CPU-Z anything above 1.45volts in the BIOS and the application will sometimes display an incorrect reading.

The voltage is set at 1.46 or something like that. CPUz reads low. the voltage is really getting higher than I like it, but hey, it gets results!


----------



## Anqt31

hey guys, I got a problem (sort of) My cpu won't run as a x2 4200+ anymore! It has to be OC'd to a 2.4 to run. Any suggestions. Yes, I cleared cmos and did all that stuff. It seems to think its an x2 4600+ now!


----------



## boonie2

NATE , did you lap your freezer pro? just switched and went back to mine from the XP-90 .. seems my lapped freezer pro{with the xtra 80mm fan} cools better than the XP-90 or my S-128 by about 2-3c


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Anqt31* 
hey guys, I got a problem (sort of) My cpu won't run as a x2 4200+ anymore! It has to be OC'd to a 2.4 to run. Any suggestions. Yes, I cleared cmos and did all that stuff. It seems to think its an x2 4600+ now!























keep pushing it then , you might talk it into an fx-60


----------



## GuardianOdin

need a program to test the bandwidth of my rig. I want to compare my CPU/RAM/GPU and try and find that sweet spot.

I can not afford to buy one, is there a free version out there of this type of software?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

G.O., try SiSoft SANDRA. You want to download SiSoft SANDRA Lite.







In its older versions (and before I went with Everest Ultimate), the Bandwidth benchmarks were available for use in the free Lite version.









Hope this helps!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


G.O., try SiSoft SANDRA. You want to download SiSoft SANDRA Lite.







In its older versions (and before I went with Everest Ultimate), the Bandwidth benchmarks were available for use in the free Lite version.









Hope this helps!










Thanks Joe, now here is another question. What am I looking for to optimize the bandwidth?

Just everyone knows if I do not respond right away. Verizon turned my phone off and I would assume my Internet will be next. So if you do not hear back from me, that's why.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well switching RAM slots didn't APPEAR to do anything for me







.

However I am currently running Memtest with my memory at 272MHz (DDR544). I can almost promise this is a no go...but its worth a shot. That puts my CPU at 3.0GHz again.

So far I'm 25% into Pass 1 and no errors yet!

However this isn't solving my issue of BSOD and failing stress tests when in Windows though......hmmmmm.

*EDIT:*
Yeah that was a DEFINITE no go







. It started giving me 20,000+ errors in test 5







. Oh well....back to the drawing board. Going to give joe's settings a try since our chips are pretty close to the same







.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
NATE , did you lap your freezer pro? just switched and went back to mine from the XP-90 .. seems my lapped freezer pro{with the xtra 80mm fan} cools better than the XP-90 or my S-128 by about 2-3c

yeah I did, 400grit followed by 600grit, then 1500grit for fun








(hardware store didn't have any other wet/dry sandpaper other than these







)
Is your processor lapped too? Or naked? I don't want to lap mine :\\. I may try re-lapping my heatsink though. First time I did it I used the glass cover for our coffee table, which I later thought of as not perfectly flat, but slanted possibly. Second time I lapped (just 600 and 1500grit) I used a small tile of granite left over from when our kitchen was fixed up, then taped the sandpaper around that on the coffee table. I figured that would be really flat, but I guess not... Can you post the guide you used for lapping?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

nate, here's a free plug for G.O.'s excellent lapping guide.









By the way, nate, I'll be sending out that package of goodies tomorrow. I've been swamped at work and haven't really had time to go to the Post Office. The end of the Fiscal Year is always a rough time when you work in a municipal entity.









pio: 20000+ errors? What divider are you running that RAM at? And what's the VDIMM? These Infineons are a little sensitive to VDIMM delivery. I wouldn't go much over 2.8V with these. I've set up the Mushkin Redlines to run at 2.75V.

Good luck!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


hey guys, I got a problem (sort of) My cpu won't run as a x2 4200+ anymore! It has to be OC'd to a 2.4 to run. Any suggestions. Yes, I cleared cmos and did all that stuff. It seems to think its an x2 4600+ now!


Anqt, what kind of problems are you having when trying to run the 4200+ X2 at stock clocks? Does your machine lock up or BSOD? Are you running the stock voltages ect?

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

That's actually a very curious (and unique!) situation, Anqt. I've never even heard of a CPU that will not run at stock settings, but will be perfectly happy at an overclock.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


That's actually a very curious (and unique!) situation, Anqt. I've never even heard of a CPU that will not run at stock settings, but will be perfectly happy at an overclock.










Joe, I think I remember one other person a month ago that said he had problems running at stock settings. When his rig was overclocked it actually ran perfectly fine. Very strange


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


nate, here's a free plug for G.O.'s excellent lapping guide.









By the way, nate, I'll be sending out that package of goodies tomorrow. I've been swamped at work and haven't really had time to go to the Post Office. The end of the Fiscal Year is always a rough time when you work in a municipal entity.









*pio: 20000+ errors? What divider are you running that RAM at? And what's the VDIMM? These Infineons are a little sensitive to VDIMM delivery. I wouldn't go much over 2.8V with these. I've set up the Mushkin Redlines to run at 2.75V.*

Good luck!


Well I was trying to run the 166 divider with 333 HT Clock. Obviously that was a no go







. I tried 312 HT Clock with the same divider and YOUR RAM settings (gave me 2.8GHz, DDR510). I was able to run memtest through 2 passes...but then I wanted to play. Got to Windows login screen....BSOD CITY! Turned it back down to known good settings...and its fine again!

And I've got 2.80v running through my chips according to BIOS. I did ATTEMPT to run 3.3v back in my suicide days if you remember that run







. But I can promise the sticks aren't the problem here. Its something to do with my board methinks.


----------



## nategr8ns

good to hear joe








can't wait to start overclocking on the DFI









I'll probably relap my heatsink before then though, not sure.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Joe, I think I remember one other person a month ago that said he had problems running at stock settings. When his rig was overclocked it actually ran perfectly fine. Very strange










Wow.









I wish one of my chips would start believing it had two extra cores.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Thanks Joe, now here is another question. What am I looking for to optimize the bandwidth?


There are several ways to increase bandwidth. Finding which way is best for you, though, requires lots of testing (here Joe goes again with his testing malarkey







).

Tightening the timings is probably the best way, but this is limited somewhat by your RAM's ability to scale in frequency. In other words, the higher your RAM is clocked to, the less likely it is to maintain tight timings. A likely complication to tightening the timings is that more bandwidth comes at the expense of stability, and you have to be very careful you don't tighten timings too much.

Overclocking your RAM (i.e., increasing its speed from its stock 200MHz) also increases bandwidth. How the bandwidth improvements compare using this method as opposed to tweaking the timings is unknown to me right now; I was investigating RAM a few months ago when the Patriot guinea pigs I was testing crapped out.









Too many things to try to know!


----------



## nategr8ns

G.O., when you said rotate your heatsink, did you mean just start sanding in another direction? or did you mean rotate the heatsink AND sand in another direction? So that the grooves or scratches in the base would be like this:
|||| (sanding up/down)
Then rotate the sink and sand diagonally, so they look like this:
////

or

grooves:
||||
then rotate the heatsinks and direction:
|||| (grooves would stay the same)

I don't remember which I did, but I had tried to follow your guide once and couldn't because of this misunderstanding








(i used soap instead of oil, and didn't use polish)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

nate, the way I understand G.O.'s guide and diagrams, you keep your heatsink's position static, and you just change the direction you're sanding. This is how I lap heatsinks, though perhaps not as meticulously as G.O.'s method is.

(I also use soap.







)

Of course, even more effective than lapping is the "real man's mod," i.e., stripping your CPUs.









@ pio: I forget if I had asked you this before (and if I have, please forgive me for asking again): Did you test *just* your RAM's maximum? It's entirely possible that your RAM simply cannot run at anything close to DDR500 (which means it's defective, like my Corsair DDR500s were).

Good luck, guys!


----------



## thlnk3r

Nate, when I do my laps I typically go back and forth (left to right). I do this at least 100-250 times before I switch to a new clean sheet of paper. I do the same grit for at 20-30mins.

Hope that helps


----------



## nategr8ns

joe, thats what I did









thinker, so you just do one direction? Would it matter what directions that is? (i.e. side to side instead of top to bottom?) So you don't alternate at all... Hmm...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Lots of ways to skin a cat (or lap a heatsink).









The truth is, there's probably no one way to do things. There might be a "best" way for you to do something, but it likely will not be the best for someone else.







But as long as you get the result you're looking for in the end, that's all that matters.

(Who knew Macchiavelli could be applied to the world of PC enthusiasts?







)


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
nate, the way I understand G.O.'s guide and diagrams, you keep your heatsink's position static, and you just change the direction you're sanding. This is how I lap heatsinks, though perhaps not as meticulously as G.O.'s method is.

(I also use soap.







)

Of course, even more effective than lapping is the "real man's mod," i.e., stripping your CPUs.









*@ pio: I forget if I had asked you this before (and if I have, please forgive me for asking again): Did you test just your RAM's maximum? It's entirely possible that your RAM simply cannot run at anything close to DDR500 (which means it's defective, like my Corsair DDR500s were).*

Good luck, guys!









Actually it runs just fine in Froggy's rig at 280MHz 3-5-5-10-2T (didn't test with anything other than that....it was just to see if it'd work. And it passed 30 minutes of Orthos at those speeds. So I'm pretty darn sure the RAM can in fact be wrangled to 250MHz just fine at stock timings. I'm pretty sure at this point that its my motherboard holding them back







.

But in the meantime, I spose I can just be content with pretty darn tight timings at DDR400 speeds. At least it works!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
thinker, so you just do one direction? Would it matter what directions that is? (i.e. side to side instead of top to bottom?) So you don't alternate at all... Hmm...

Nate, that is correct. I just did side to side.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Lots of ways to skin a cat (or lap a heatsink).









The truth is, there's probably no one way to do things. There might be a "best" way for you to do something, but it likely will not be the best for someone else.







But as long as you get the result you're looking for in the end, that's all that matters.

(Who knew Macchiavelli could be applied to the world of PC enthusiasts?







)

Joe, well said


----------



## nategr8ns

k, I'll probably lap sometime in the next week, probably when my package from joe gets here







so as to not use too much thermal paste









it turns out my dad had used a TON of the MX-2 I had to reseat his heatsink on his p4 550, so it was spilling out of all sides of the heatsink base. I had to reseat it anyway because he didn't get it down tight enough (he didn't remove the motherboard and one of the pushpins wasn't actually on







) so I'm probably going to pick up some AS5.

do you guys know what the NF4 Ultra looks like under the HSF? Is it safe to use AS5 on there? Or should I be safe and use some Arctic ceramic?

and could I get a quick appraisal on my cpu, board, and ram bundled together? (don't worry, I'm not selling, just considering my options







)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Actually it runs just fine in Froggy's rig at 280MHz 3-5-5-10-2T (didn't test with anything other than that....it was just to see if it'd work. And it passed 30 minutes of Orthos at those speeds. So I'm pretty darn sure the RAM can in fact be wrangled to 250MHz just fine at stock timings. I'm pretty sure at this point that its my motherboard holding them back







.

But in the meantime, I spose I can just be content with pretty darn tight timings at DDR400 speeds. At least it works!

That's just weird, pio.









Maybe your A8N32-SLI Deluxe is a DFI LANParty UT motherboard in disguise?







That family of boards received a reputation for being picky when it comes to RAM.

Here's a question for you: Have you tried this RAM in the A8N32-SLI with another CPU? Remember that the CPU's IMC is actually what's responsible for RAM performance on S939.

(I'll confess that I'm befuddled with the idea that the A8N32-SLI has problems running RAM. It shouldn't, but it does.)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
do you guys know what the NF4 Ultra looks like under the HSF? Is it safe to use AS5 on there? Or should I be safe and use some Arctic ceramic?

Nate, it's safe to use AS5 on the nForce 4 DIE. Just make sure not to get messy with it. I usually use a broken credit card to spread the TIM.

Good luck


----------



## nategr8ns

k thinker, I'll take your word for it


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


G.O., when you said rotate your heatsink, did you mean just start sanding in another direction? or did you mean rotate the heatsink AND sand in another direction? So that the grooves or scratches in the base would be like this:
|||| (sanding up/down)
Then rotate the sink and sand diagonally, so they look like this:
////

or

grooves:
||||
then rotate the heatsinks and direction:
|||| (grooves would stay the same)

I don't remember which I did, but I had tried to follow your guide once and couldn't because of this misunderstanding








(i used soap instead of oil, and didn't use polish)


I keep the HS/CPU moving in ONE direction as I rotate it. That way your not digging huge scratches while sanding. I also take to 2000 grit. Most people will say that over kill but I like the mirror finish.

Oh and thanks Joe. I may do some testing since I do not have a phone right now. I'm hoping Verizon keeps my internet on for a few days until I can get some money to them.


----------



## nategr8ns

ah ok, thanks. So alternate the direction of the scratches, right?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


ah ok, thanks. So alternate the direction of the scratches, right?


yep. up and down. Just rotate the CPU/Heat sink as you go.


----------



## thlnk3r

Nate & Guardian, I also really think it depends on the surface condition. I did try left to right and rotating 90 degree's but I found out going left to right and not rotating was more effective. There is a link in my sig that shows my SI-128. I went up to 1500 grit in that lap and then used some wheel polish.

Good luck Nate


----------



## nategr8ns

thanks thinker, so you're saying keep the scratches all lined up for the entire process correct?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
thanks thinker, so you're saying keep the scratches all lined up for the entire process correct?

Nate, that is what I did. Everyone has their own process of lapping each with it's pro's and con's. The only way to find out is to try it out yourself. Right now you have baseline instructions so I would start with those and see how it goes. At first it'll be a tedious job but you'll figure it out









Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

G.O., would you consider playing this game?









I'm still not sure if this is a mind trick or what...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
G.O., would you consider playing this game?









Joe, I already beat that game....


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, I already beat that game....

Really?










Wow. This is the first I've seen of this.

Was it fun?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Really?










Wow. This is the first I've seen of this.

Was it fun?

Joe, can't remember...I beat the game to fast.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, can't remember...I beat the game to fast.

Holy cow.

I guess I'll have to play this at my parents' house this weekend.









(If I'm late to dinner again, blame the game, okay?)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Holy cow.

I guess I'll have to play this at my parents' house this weekend.









(If I'm late to dinner again, blame the game, okay?)










Joe, the code for 100 guys is up up down down left right left right b a select start.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, the code for 100 guys is up up down down left right left right b a select start.

What the..?

Are we talking about the same game?









Where did that link dump you to?

(Select Start? This ain't Nintendo!)


----------



## nategr8ns

erm, wth?

Joe, this is the point where you should finally realize that Thinker is joking...


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
G.O., would you consider playing this game?









I'm still not sure if this is a mind trick or what...









lol, I'll have to check that out. Man it would be cool if they made a modern game of the movie. I could be a swashbuckler!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

You a swashbuckler?

*Inconceivable!*


----------



## thlnk3r

Sorry S939'ers but I had to post this:


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


erm, wth?


Huh, wut?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Joe, this is the point where you should finally realize that Thinker is joking...












thlnk3r has a sense of humor?


















He got me good! ROFL


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


You a swashbuckler?

*Inconceivable!*


I could be........maybe...........yeah ok.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Sorry S939'ers but I had to post this:




















in Contra III I'm stuck at the end of the level where you have to fight the giant monster with a red gem on it's chest.
any help?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


in Contra III I'm stuck at the end of the level where you have to fight the giant monster with a red gem on it's chest.
any help?


Nate, I know it's Friday and all but are you seriously joking?


----------



## boonie2

Hey Nate , still looking for a waterblock? go to Ebay and search OPTERON 170 , theres only 1 listing , in the sellers "other items" he has one listed for $20


----------



## nategr8ns

boonie did you see this? What the heck is a DDR Memory Booster?!?
thanks for the heads up


----------



## txtmstrjoe

The OCZ DDR Booster was a motherboard accessory for boosting VDIMM injection. Very very popular back in the days of low-density RAM OCing, specifically with 2 x 256MB BH-5 ICs. With a compatible motherboard, you can send an insane amount of voltage into your RAM to maintain high MHz coupled with tight timings.

It's no longer useful for modern DDR ICs, unfortunately. The ICs used today require far less voltage and don't have nearly the same kind of headroom MHz-wise as the legendary BH-5s did.


----------



## nategr8ns

coolio








no thinker, I'm not joking.

I can get you a screenshot though


----------



## ayah

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=381378

Old school gaming.


----------



## nategr8ns

(soon to be) welcome ayah









thinker, I'm uploading the image now








lols just beat him for the first time


----------



## thlnk3r

Ayah, welcome to the club









Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
(soon to be) welcome ayah









thinker, I'm uploading the image now








lols just beat him for the first time

Nate, sorry bud I thought you were joking. Unfortunately I have never played Contra III so I couldn't tell you how to beat the boss


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Welcome, ayah! You are now part of the tribe.


----------



## Anqt31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Anqt, what kind of problems are you having when trying to run the 4200+ X2 at stock clocks? Does your machine lock up or BSOD? Are you running the stock voltages ect?

Good luck









I'm trying to run with everything set to Auto in the CMOS. It just kind of locks up on startup. Kinda strange. Now if only I can get it to think its a Q6600... (J/K)

Also, welcome Ayah.


----------



## GuardianOdin

OK guys, I'm trying to play Company of Heroes and it keeps crashing a minutes into game play. I hear a quick *skkiish!* and the entire PC freezes. I played the games for 5 hours yesterday with no issues. Any idea's?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Does anything show up in your Event Viewer, G.O.?


----------



## GuardianOdin

I'm getting these.


----------



## prosser13

Looks like a drivers problem to me TBH...

Or hard drive corruption


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *prosser13*


Looks like a drivers problem to me TBH...

Or hard drive corruption










man I hope not


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


OK guys, I'm trying to play Company of Heroes and it keeps crashing a minutes into game play. I hear a quick *skkiish!* and the entire PC freezes. I played the games for 5 hours yesterday with no issues. Any idea's?


you're not GPU folding are you?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


you're not GPU folding are you?


nope,I turn that off if I play a game.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

G.O., besides your game, what else was running when the system crashed?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


I'm trying to run with everything set to Auto in the CMOS. It just kind of locks up on startup. Kinda strange. Now if only I can get it to think its a Q6600... (J/K)

Also, welcome Ayah.


Anqt, take what you can off of AUTO and manually enter in the settings. Let us know if that works.

Guardian, the 3dsmax errors are from 3DStudio Max.

Event ID 1000: http://www.eventid.net/display.asp?eventid=1000&source=

Event ID 1001: http://www.eventid.net/display.asp?eventid=1001&source=

Event ID 1002: http://www.eventid.net/display.asp?eventid=1002&source=

Event ID 1081: http://www.eventid.net/display.asp?eventid=1081&source=

Did you perform the standard diagnostics on your machine (hard drive, memory, stress test ect)?

Let us know

Good luck


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


G.O., besides your game, what else was running when the system crashed?


There are mouse and keyboard service,diskeeper and few more but I have to look.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Anqt, take what you can off of AUTO and manually enter in the settings. Let us know if that works.

Guardian, the 3dsmax errors are from 3DStudio Max.

Event ID 1000: http://www.eventid.net/display.asp?eventid=1000&source=

Event ID 1001: http://www.eventid.net/display.asp?eventid=1001&source=

Event ID 1002: http://www.eventid.net/display.asp?eventid=1002&source=

Event ID 1081: http://www.eventid.net/display.asp?eventid=1081&source=

Did you perform the standard diagnostics on your machine (hard drive, memory, stress test ect)?

Let us know

Good luck










yes, It's stable as ever. It's only crashing in Company of Heroes.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

G.O., have you installed any new drivers or other software lately? One of the new drivers or software may not be playing nice with Company of Heroes.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


G.O., have you installed any new drivers or other software lately? One of the new drivers or software may not be playing nice with Company of Heroes.










the new Video card drivers so I can use the GPU folding. 177.35


----------



## nategr8ns

try reverting to 175.19 and see if you still get the problem (you can still gpu fold with them)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
try reverting to 175.19 and see if you still get the problem (you can still gpu fold with them)

Go with nate's advice here, G.O.









Hope that sorts things out for you!


----------



## Anqt31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Anqt, take what you can off of AUTO and manually enter in the settings. Let us know if that works.

Guardian, the 3dsmax errors are from 3DStudio Max.

Event ID 1000: http://www.eventid.net/display.asp?eventid=1000&source=

Event ID 1001: http://www.eventid.net/display.asp?eventid=1001&source=

Event ID 1002: http://www.eventid.net/display.asp?eventid=1002&source=

Event ID 1081: http://www.eventid.net/display.asp?eventid=1081&source=

Did you perform the standard diagnostics on your machine (hard drive, memory, stress test ect)?

Let us know

Good luck









Yeah, I tried that, no luck. Lowest stable is 2.4Ghz. Looks like I've got a 4600+, lol. Tried bios flash, no luck, same bios, same results. Thanks for the help though. Get your 4850 or 4870 yet?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


Yeah, I tried that, no luck. Lowest stable is 2.4Ghz. Looks like I've got a 4600+, lol. Tried bios flash, no luck, same bios, same results. Thanks for the help though. Get your 4850 or 4870 yet?


Anqt, wow that is very strange...do you have another S939 that you could test with to see if it's able to run at stock settings? How about another motherboard that you could test with?

I haven't purchased the 4850 yet. Kind of waiting but I am getting anxious. I just got done with a scrim in TF2 playing with my X700 Pro and it was not a good sight in terms of FPS









Good luck!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hey thlnk3r! I like your new system name.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Hey thlnk3r! I like your new system name.









Joe, thank you. I think I'm being loaned a X1950 XT (for testing purposes) until I can save enough for a 4850. I forgot who's lending me the card


----------



## pioneerisloud

BTW joe:
Yes I have tried a different CPU in this machine







. Remember? I used to run the Manny X2 in my sig rig paired with 2x512MB of Froggy's Corsair VS RAM. And even that RAM didn't specifically like running at stock speeds and timings. It would do a MAXIUMUM of 208MHz with loose timings in my board where as she hits 225+ MHz with *FOUR* 512MB sticks with stock 3-3-3-8-2T timings.

So yes...I'm pretty darn sure its my motherboard







.

I wish we lived in "So-Cal" so we could have dinner with the famous txtmstrjoe and thinkerbell too! That'd be awesome!


----------



## GuardianOdin

ok figured it out. It's not the drivers. I believe it's the videos in the game and Evga Precision. I disabled the videos and Evga Precision and played for 2 hours with no crashes. That took a bit to trouble shoot.

whoops :EDIT: Thanks for the help guys.


----------



## nategr8ns

thinker, they made a commodore 128?
dang, makes my c64 look like crap








(when do you think they're going to start making computer built into keyboards again? That was fun







)
Did you know that either commodore or somebody who bought the name have started making gaming rigs? They're trying to compete with Alienware and Voodoo and the like.


----------



## ice_owl

Computers into keyboards, computers into monitors, I guess the only thing left is for somebody to build a computer into a mouse.


----------



## nategr8ns

_supposedly_ theres a little pocket computer coming out, it uses the idea of a "projected" keyboard onto the desk and has a mini projector that puts a screen up on the wall.
I would really like to see one of these, just add mouse


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
ok figured it out. It's not the drivers. I believe it's the videos in the game and Evga Precision. I disabled the videos and Evga Precision and played for 2 hours with no crashes. That took a bit to trouble shoot.

whoops :EDIT: Thanks for the help guys.

Guardian, good job on the troubleshooting. I would have never thought to try that









Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
thinker, they made a commodore 128?

Nate, that is correct. There was a Commodore 128 and I had one









Those were literally the good days. In order to load anything you had to throw in the 5 1/2 floppy disk and type a couple of commands to run the app. I had so many D&D games


----------



## nategr8ns

just be sure not to leave the floppy on top of the reader








edit: look at attached pic







, I have 2 939 systems








editedit: new avatar


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


Yeah, I tried that, no luck. Lowest stable is 2.4Ghz. Looks like I've got a 4600+, lol. Tried bios flash, no luck, same bios, same results. Thanks for the help though. Get your 4850 or 4870 yet?


Set it back to stock clocks and raise the voltage as little as possible and see if that helps any.

On a side note I know this is off topic (surprise surprise) but for those of you who haven't heard Diablo III is announced!!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Guardian, good job on the troubleshooting. I would have never thought to try that










Thanks Think, I had an idea where to go because it was a hard lock freeze. By that I mean I know it wasn't hardware related. The noise my head-hones made never happen with a OC. It does happen on some divx videos.....which happens to be one of the DLL files in Company of Heroes. Actually it is Dixvdecoder.dll....pain in the butt.


----------



## Anqt31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Iceman0803* 
Set it back to stock clocks and raise the voltage as little as possible and see if that helps any.

On a side note I know this is off topic (surprise surprise) but for those of you who haven't heard Diablo III is announced!!

Yeah, it doesn't work. I'm stuck w/ a 4600+ now. Running nicely @ about 3Ghz.

Also, I got a new lappy. Unfortunately, they don't make s939 for them!


----------



## jbsmith

939 San Diego, but not OC'd here!


----------



## nategr8ns

I figure I'll be doing a sub-zero soon


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jbsmith* 
939 San Diego, but not OC'd here!

WELCOME jbsmith , just a validation to one of our "esteemed" leaders and your in


----------



## vwgti

Well guys its been fun, and a real hoot being apart of this club. But sadly tomorrow with the arrival of my motherboard, Ill be putting together my am2 rig. I still check in from time to time, but I will no longer official be a member. Keep the 939 spirit rolling as long as you guys can.


----------



## Anqt31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vwgti* 
Well guys its been fun, and a real hoot being apart of this club. But sadly tomorrow with the arrival of my motherboard, Ill be putting together my am2 rig. I still check in from time to time, but I will no longer official be a member. Keep the 939 spirit rolling as long as you guys can.

Its the heart that counts, good luck w/ your new rig.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hey veedub, even though you'll be moving on to AM2, you'll always be a part of our little family here.







The door will always be open to you.

Good luck with your OCing adventures with AM2! May the OCing gods smile fondly on you.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vwgti*


Well guys its been fun, and a real hoot being apart of this club. But sadly tomorrow with the arrival of my motherboard, Ill be putting together my am2 rig. I still check in from time to time, but I will no longer official be a member. Keep the 939 spirit rolling as long as you guys can.


I'm gonna be sad to see you and your sub 27 sec SuperPi times go







. But hey....like its been said, its all about what's in your heart. And you know 939 lives on! So just so long as you keep that mentality, you'll be fine







.

I CALL DIBS ON THE 3.2GHZ OPTERON FROM VEEDUB!!!







Just kidding







. Anyways man, I hope your new rig goes nice and smooth for you







.


----------



## Anqt31

I'll have a new OC tomorrow night. Expect the mid 3.4 to low 3.5 range!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


I'll have a new OC tomorrow night. Expect the mid 3.4 to low 3.5 range!


I hate to be the one to say it....but







? I want to see that your chip is in fact stable at these speeds







. Otherwise you're risking data corruption or worse. You might want to run OCCT or Orthos on blended tests for 12+ hours to see if you're stable. I VERY highly doubt that a Manchester CPU is hitting those speeds stably. It's possible, but VERY unlikely







.

Just as a friendly heads up







. I honestly don't mean to sound mean or pushy. I just don't want you to screw up your rig.


----------



## thlnk3r

Vwgti, I don't see any reason why you can't still be part of the club. I mean you technically still have a S939 processor and motherboard. You could always build a spare machine to FOLD with. Throw the Opteron in there









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


I'll have a new OC tomorrow night. Expect the mid 3.4 to low 3.5 range!


Anqt, if your able to get those speeds stable then this will be the first Manchester that I have seen exceed 3Ghz+ stable.

Good luck


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Vwgti, I don't see any reason why you can't still be part of the club. I mean you technically still have a S939 processor and motherboard. You could always build a spare machine to FOLD with. Throw the Opteron in there









Anqt, if your able to get those speeds stable then this will be the first Manchester that I have seen exceed 3Ghz+ stable.

Good luck










It would be the first Manchester I've personally ever seen pass 2.8GHz STABLE







. But that's just me.


----------



## vwgti

Well guys thanks for the support. As far as my old bits go, Ill be giving them to a friend as hes in need of a upgrade from s754. If anyone here would like naked opty let me know, but Id need another dual core chip that will hit 2.5 to pass onto my friend with my mobo and ram. Let me know guys if you have a 939 dual core youd like to trade for opty.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hey Club members, I thought I'd let slip here first that I'm looking to thin out my stash of spare parts; since we all rock with S939, I figure I'll offer them to you first before I proceed with other plans to sell. If anyone is interested in an LCB9E Opteron 170 or an Abit AT8 32X, let me know via PM.

It'd be great if these spare parts can find homes with people I know will appreciate them.









Thanks, guys and gal!


----------



## alexgheseger

Hmmm, an opty 170 eh? Got anything a little more tame?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexgheseger*


Hmmm, an opty 170 eh? Got anything a little more tame?


More tame? I'm not sure what you mean.


----------



## alexgheseger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


More tame? I'm not sure what you mean.










Well, I've got my little S939 rig, but it's got a locked bios (from before i learned OEM = phail) so i was thinking if you have a "meh" dual core chip that doesn't necessarily clock too well, i'd be happy to take it off your hands...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I've got an Opty 175 CCBWE, new-in-box, sealed, that I'm considering selling off.

2.2GHz stock, OCing potential completely unknown, though CCBWEs are definitely not the most OCable batch of chips.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vwgti*


Well guys thanks for the support. As far as my old bits go, Ill be giving them to a friend as hes in need of a upgrade from s754. If anyone here would like naked opty let me know, but Id need another dual core chip that will hit 2.5 to pass onto my friend with my mobo and ram. Let me know guys if you have a 939 dual core youd like to trade for opty.


 Man, now you need to start the AM2 Club.....then those of us here can join when we upgrade down the road.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I've got an Opty 175 CCBWE, new-in-box, sealed, that I'm considering selling off.

2.2GHz stock, OCing potential completely unknown, though CCBWEs are definitely not the most OCable batch of chips.


Man I wish I could.


----------



## Zenja

I have an AMD 939 46

and I need a Good motherboard for it [ the last mobo fried ]
and I see that they are very hard to get

suggestions please

pm me


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Zenja* 
I have an AMD 939 46

and I need a Good motherboard for it [ the last mobo fried ]
and I see that they are very hard to get

suggestions please

pm me

Zenja, what kind of S939 motherboard are you looking for? How did your last board get "fried"?

Good luck


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zenja*


I have an AMD 939 46

and I need a Good motherboard for it [ the last mobo fried ] 
and I see that they are very hard to get

suggestions please

pm me



PMd


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes, I am still alive.

No, I am not yet home.

No, I did not RMA my board yet.

No, my parents still will not let me buy a PCI-E Mobo/GPU.

Looks like I am going to be stuck here in AGP land for another two years. In other news though, I am talking with someone who can hook me up with another GA-K8N. Imagine, no downtime while RMAing!

I wonder if I can gut the Dell I have. When the RMAed board came back, I can put it, my Sandy, my Radeon 9700, the SB Live, and and old powersupply and have a pair of 939 rigs running. Anyone know how hard it is to make a Dell into an ATX case?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Just a word of caution, Sub-Zero: Dells from up to fairly recently have had proprietary PSU designs. They may not function on a non-Dell motherboard. In fact, I've even read about a few of these proprietary Dell PSUs destroy non-Dell equipment (!).


----------



## nategr8ns

strange enough, my Dell e521 has a normal PSU


----------



## Anqt31

Did you put that PSU in after you got the dell?


----------



## iandroo888

syrillian 939 pride haha


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hey ian, great catch!


----------



## GuardianOdin

now no more rep'ing him for awhile


----------



## Syrillian

Lolzalot! Nice catch there Androo.









Heh... I used to have a Manchester x2 3800... it was my *first True Love*.

...I miss that 'ol Rig.


----------



## iandroo888

who repped him?! hes am2 now >=[ lol


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Negative.







Lord Syrillian, god among men, is now S940, precursor to S939.









By the way, Syrillian also has the profound honor of posting Post #5000 in our Club thread!

All hail Syrillian!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Howwmmmmmm Howmmmmmm.....hail Syrillian Howwwmmmmmmmm


----------



## thlnk3r

Wow guys can't believe we hit 5,000 posts in this club thread









Great job members


----------



## pioneerisloud

Wow yeah I can't believe we've hit that many posts either.

To those that are looking for a CPU.....I'd be willing to trade my Manchester X2 3800+ for another 939 CPU (doesn't have to overclock very well at all...stock is fine for me). Just figured I'd put that out there, since that one guy last page was asking for something more "tame"







.


----------



## vwgti

Well Im now no longer a official member guys. Was nice being apart of this club, but will make sure to post in on my progress with the new setup. Hope everyone is doing well, and please guys keep the spirit alive


----------



## boonie2

nice choice for the upgrade







theyll have to pry my 939 from my cold dead hands


----------



## vwgti

Well guys been fiddling a little, and heres the best I got so far. Pioneerisloud check this out, haha hard to get 28 secs superpi eh, you know where Im coming from. Well good day gents.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vwgti*


Well guys been fiddling a little, and heres the best I got so far. Pioneerisloud check this out, haha hard to get 28 secs superpi eh, you know where Im coming from. Well good day gents.


WOW! Congratulations! I say drop that multiplier, and crank up that HT Bus man!!!! You've done PROVED that the HT bus matters quite a bit when talking about SuperPI







. Let's see if you can beat 20 seconds!!!!! I'd put money on it that a sub 21 second SuperPI time is in your near future my friend







. Lookin good so far!!!


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


Did you put that PSU in after you got the dell?


the Dell is my brothers and still using the Dell PSU, but with tons of research and some fiddling I found out that the e521s (and I assume the e520s also) use normal ATX power connectors. Just incase he wants a better graphics card in the future


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vwgti* 
Well guys been fiddling a little, and heres the best I got so far. Pioneerisloud check this out, haha hard to get 28 secs superpi eh, you know where Im coming from. Well good day gents.

Vwgti, that is very impressive. Your getting a +1 for that









Is it stable yet?

Good job!!!


----------



## Anqt31

Nice OC!!!


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes, I am aware my Dad's Dell has a non-standard power supply. However, as I said, I have a spare 550 W Antec left over when I upgraded to a 650 W. It should be more than enough for a Sandy, a Radeon 9700, an Soundblaster Live, and four ATA devices.

The question is, can the Dell natively take an ATX-form-factor board, or will I need to drill new standoffs. It would be nice to be rid of the P4 and its ridiculous RDRAM. I think I might have some DDR 333 in my Socket A rig; it is not much, but should be sufficient for my Sandy. The Dell now is used solely as a download box. That is, if I want to download something I am sure has viruses on it, I do it there, and then check/clean the file before transfering it to another PC. If it gets gormed up, it takes only 15 minutes to reinstall Linux on it.


----------



## Anqt31

I believe that the holes are there already. In a 2000 Dell a friend and I modded, we fit a modern ATX mobo in w/out drilling extra holes.


----------



## nategr8ns

drilling standoffs? what?
I thought the problem was the 20/24pin connector or whatever it uses?
Some Dells use a 20-pin and some other funky 5 or 6 pin connector and some use a normal (at least it fits a normal connector) 24-pin. My brother's dell has a 24-pin and a freebie I got from a neighbor has the weird 20/5-6 pin.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
The question is, can the Dell natively take an ATX-form-factor board, or will I need to drill new standoffs..

Blitz, I do know a standard ATX motherboard does not fit in a Dell Dimension 2600 case. Another weird thing that Dell did was the mounting bracket for the processor was screwed in. The screws went through the board and into the case. Kind of strange


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Geez, thlnk3rb377, is there anything you don't know?









Great to know you're a part of our crew, though.


----------



## nategr8ns

lolz, I just watched a certain movie G.O.









My name is Inigo Montoya and you kill' my father. Prepare to die!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Ooh.

Loved that duel with Count Rugen.

But it wasn't as good as the duel between the Dread Pirate Roberts and Inigo.

DPR: Why are you smiling?
IM: Because I know something you dont.








DPR: And that is..?
IM: I am not left-handed!










Ah, the classics!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Geez, thlnk3rb377, is there anything you don't know?









Great to know you're a part of our crew, though.










Joe, there is actually quite a bit I don't know. My weakest link is probably memory tweakage skills


----------



## Blitz6804

http://www.overclock.net/system.php?i=22189

Dimension 8100. Intel P4 with 256 MB of RDR 800.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Ooh.

Loved that duel with Count Rugen.

But it wasn't as good as the duel between the Dread Pirate Roberts and Inigo.

DPR: Why are you smiling?
IM: Because I know something you dont.








DPR: And that is..?
IM: I am not left-handed!










Ah, the classics!


DPR=Man in Black









"I am not left handed either







"









edit:

Quote:



[fencing]
Inigo Montoya: You are wonderful.
Man in Black: Thank you; I've worked hard to become so.
Inigo Montoya: I admit it, you are better than I am.
Man in Black: Then why are you smiling?
Inigo Montoya: Because I know something you don't know.
Man in Black: And what is that?
Inigo Montoya: I... am not left-handed.
[Moves his sword to his right hand and gains an advantage]
Man in Black: You are amazing.
Inigo Montoya: I ought to be, after 20 years.
Man in Black: Oh, there's something I ought to tell you.
Inigo Montoya: Tell me.
Man in Black: I'm not left-handed either.
[Moves his sword to his right hand and regains his advantage]


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


lolz, I just watched a certain movie G.O.









My name is Inigo Montoya and you kill' my father. Prepare to die!



Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Ooh.

Loved that duel with Count Rugen.

But it wasn't as good as the duel between the Dread Pirate Roberts and Inigo.

DPR: Why are you smiling?
IM: Because I know something you dont.








DPR: And that is..?
IM: I am not left-handed!










Ah, the classics!



Inigo Montoya: You are wonderful.
*Man in Black*: Thank you; I've worked hard to become so.
Inigo Montoya: I admit it, you are better than I am.
*Man in Black*: Then why are you smiling?
Inigo Montoya: Because I know something you don't know.
*Man in Black*: And what is that?
Inigo Montoya: I... am not left-handed.
*Man in Black*: You are amazing.
Inigo Montoya: I ought to be, after 20 years.
*Man in Black*: Oh, there's something I ought to tell you.
Inigo Montoya: Tell me.
*Man in Black*: I'm not left-handed either.


----------



## nategr8ns

Fezzik, go back and read my post







, the one right above yours


----------



## txtmstrjoe

@ Fezzik!


----------



## nategr8ns

well he _is_ brute squad, right?

(I finally understand the jokes you guys were making when he first got that title







)

And I just saw a commercial for that game that somebody posted a little while back








yes, a real life on-TV commercial


----------



## txtmstrjoe

That *is* true. G.O. IS the Brute Squad.







He keeps us all in line in this here insane asylum.


----------



## vwgti

Hey guys, can ayone of you point me in the direction of a explanation of bios settings for dfi. I have gotten the just of most, just have no Ideas what some of the settings do. The manual dosnt say anything on the bios at all. Thanks in advance guys.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

veedub, I have a more extensive listing of all the various BIOS settings for S939-era DFIs somewhere, but this is a thinner version of that document. If and when I'm able to find the more complete information, I'll edit this post and add on to it.









Hope this helps you (at least a little bit).









EDIT:

Scroll down until you find the right section.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vwgti*


just have no Ideas what some of the settings do. The manual dosnt say anything on the bios at all.


Vw, what BIOS settings are you wondering about?

Here is another helpful guide about the 790FX: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=169812

Good luck


----------



## vwgti

Its more so all the extra ram settings, and also I cant figure out how to disable onboard sound. Thanks for the link, Im looking into it now.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Boy there veedub, I honestly couldn't even imagine the first place to look. DFI BIOS's can be quite tricky with them RAM settings. Hence why I don't want to own another DFI for a while, lol. They're GREAT when you figure them out!

And I can't wait to see what you come up with for your latest stable overclock! I'm jealous of all of your overclocks, lol. 3.2GHz stable on a 939...just wow!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Boy there veedub, I honestly couldn't even imagine the first place to look. DFI BIOS's can be quite tricky with them RAM settings. Hence why I don't want to own another DFI for a while, lol. They're GREAT when you figure them out!

And I can't wait to see what you come up with for your latest stable overclock! I'm jealous of all of your overclocks, lol. 3.2GHz stable on a 939...just wow!

The only hard part about DFI RAM timings is the sub-timings. While there is not a ton of sub-timings,there is a lot of rebooting to figure what works better with which ever "main" Timings you set to begin with.


----------



## vwgti

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Boy there veedub, I honestly couldn't even imagine the first place to look. DFI BIOS's can be quite tricky with them RAM settings. Hence why I don't want to own another DFI for a while, lol. They're GREAT when you figure them out!

And I can't wait to see what you come up with for your latest stable overclock! I'm jealous of all of your overclocks, lol. 3.2GHz stable on a 939...just wow!

Thanks pio, glad I can be a inspiration, as of right now the ocing is on hold, as I have to work 12 hours a day for the next four days. But after that is all behind me, Ill be back with some killer results I hope.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Alright guys...working on a new overclock! I decided to follow veedub's footsteps and try out some nice HT clock speeds.

*Here's my current settings (so far 1 hr. 15 minutes stable in Orthos Blended):*
Current CPU information:
355 HT Clock
8x Multi
2842MHz
1.26v under load
1066 HT Link Speed (3x multi)

RAM Information:
237MHz RAM speed (DDR474)
2.5-3-2-6-1T timings
2.80v (in BIOS)

Well..what do you guys think? I know its no 250MHz on the RAM....but I'm getting closer!!!! Settings are ALL AUTO SETTINGS except the timings and voltage I listed (RAM wise). I gave up tweaking it. If it doesn't work like this, then I'll drop it back down to 312 x 9 with 200MHz RAM and nice and tight timings. But so far...so good.

I'll update with proof and stability when it all is finished up!!!


----------



## nategr8ns

dang 2.5-3-2

mine runs at 3-3-3 :\\


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well I'm back up to 1 hour and 10 minutes again! I WAS running 1.33v before and stopped it myself. Figured what the heck...might as well try lower volts again. Dropped it to 1.25 in BIOS, gave me 1.28v idle, 1.26v load...and I've been going strong now for an hour and ten minutes again.

Headed to bed here soon, so hopefully by the time I wake up...it'll be stable and good to go!


----------



## nategr8ns

dang how do you guys get such low voltages? I think I'm running 1.4v just to get to 2.7ghz!
although it may be 1.375...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vwgti*


Its more so all the extra ram settings, and also I cant figure out how to disable onboard sound. Thanks for the link, Im looking into it now.


Vw, to disable the audio go to Integrated Peripherals->South OnChip PCI Device. Next to "HD Azalia Audio", change AUTO to Disable.

Hope that helps


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


dang how do you guys get such low voltages? I think I'm running 1.4v just to get to 2.7ghz!
although it may be 1.375...


A "Golden Chip" will be about the only thing to get you such low voltages







. BTW...I lasted 2.5 hours Orthos blended at the settings above with 1.26v. I had to quit tho...I just HAD to do some Drifting in GRID before I went down for a nap







.


----------



## Blitz6804

nategr8ns: as Joe is so fond of saying: your mileage will vary.

In other news, I will be blacked out now until tomorrow. I will be driving home to Buffalo in an hour or so, and will likely not go online when I get in.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

pio, a fine explanation of some of the attributes of a so-called "Golden Chip."









I have an idea for an intra-Club contest. All you need for this is a CPU, a *STOCK* heatsink, and your willingness and bravery to participate.







Before I disclose more details, I want to get an idea as to whether or not this is even worth running.









So, show of hands, people! Who wants in on this?


----------



## GuardianOdin

stock heatsinks do not like my Opty....They tend to want to melt


----------



## Anqt31

I suppose I could dig my stock heatsink out. If you run a contest, count me in.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

G.O., so I guess you're out?



















I'm in, by the way.









Who wants to join me?

EDIT: Alright, anqt!

Who else is as brave as anqt and me?

Don't make me quote "Spaceballs" in here!


----------



## boonie2

ill run my stock opty heatsink with optional fire extinguisher attachment , its pretty good .. no suicide runs


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:

no sir, thats his name! *******! Major *******.
I'll run my opty on the stock cooler! I can get almost the same clocks with it as I can with my freezer, only with better temps!







(albeit the stock is tad louder as far as I can tell)

Quote:

Ludicrous Speed!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

YES! Two more sucke... er, I mean, two more brave souls!


----------



## Masterchief3k

Add meee! my CPU-Z is in my sig.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I have an idea for an intra-Club contest. All you need for this is a CPU, a *STOCK* heatsink, and your willingness and bravery to participate.







Before I disclose more details, I want to get an idea as to whether or not this is even worth running.









So, show of hands, people! Who wants in on this?


Joe, are lapped stock coolers ok to use?


----------



## nategr8ns

well its not totally stock... but I guess its ok









(no, my name isn't joe)


----------



## boonie2

Think3r , shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.................. thats my ace in the hole


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Please welcome our newest member, Masterchief3k!









Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, are lapped stock coolers ok to use?









If you want to cheat, sure!










Yeah, if your stock cooler is lapped, go on ahead!









I guess you're in too, thlnk3r?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Please welcome our newest member, Masterchief3k!









If you want to cheat, sure!









Yeah, if your stock cooler is lapped, go on ahead!









I guess you're in too, thlnk3r?

Masterchief3k welcome to the club!

Joe, yes I am in as long as the lapped cooler is ok?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Lapped stock coolers will be accepted.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Lapped stock coolers will be accepted.









Joe, if this is a contest (which I'm asusming it is), when are the rules and guidelines going to be posted?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
G.O., so I guess you're out?



















I'm in, by the way.









Who wants to join me?

EDIT: Alright, anqt!

Who else is as brave as anqt and me?

Don't make me quote "Spaceballs" in here!









I still have my original heatsink. Depending on the time frame I could be in or out. I know I won't have time for the next week or two. I'm getting ready to move soon.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Yes, it is a contest.









I don't have a start nor end date yet, but I figure we'll probably start rolling with this towards the end of the month. Just in time for summer temperatures! Muhahahaha

Oh wait. I have the sauna for a bedroom!









(Joe, you numbskull...)


----------



## boonie2

Joe I wasnt going to deliberately going to cheat , my opteron coolers already lapped , it was a joke


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


Joe I wasnt going to deliberately going to cheat , my opteron coolers already lapped , it was a joke


Hehe, no problems, boonie. My comment was directed at thlnk3r specifically.







And yeah, I did get your joke.
















Lapped stock coolers are completely good to use for this little contest I have in mind. It's just some summertime fun and games for Club S939.









Besides, boon, I've got my own "trick" up my sleeve. Hehehehe


----------



## boonie2

hows that saying go again.........."he who makes the rules............"


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


hows that saying go again.........."he who makes the rules............"



























boonie, my friend, you are hilarious.









Well, mind you, anyone can do what I have in mind.







Whether or not people would, though...


----------



## nategr8ns

well if there's no prize then I don't see why lapped coolers aren't OK


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hey Jax, what's this about prizes?


----------



## Anqt31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Masterchief3k*


Add meee! my CPU-Z is in my sig.


Welcome Masterchief3k!


----------



## PROBN4LYFE

I can't believe you picked the Manchester OC over my 4000+ 3207...lol!
Hwbot man...lmao!
But thx for keepin and old head in thur!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Hey Jax, what's this about prizes?










Joe, ut oh prizes!?!? I'm sure we'll see Iandroo show up soon and join this little...competition









Lub u Ian


----------



## pioneerisloud

@Joe:
I'd be in for sure! It depends on the rules of course. I have a stock cooler...but its on my HTPC rig that I can't really pull apart. But I do know what voltages I can use on the stock cooler (1.37v TOPS, gives 70*C load).....if that can count?

@Everyone who cares:
I managed to get the settings I mentioned earlier to be stable!!!! However I went to restart and my board didn't like it. So see my attachments







. I'm going to be working on wrangling *1300MHz HT Link* stable! That's with a 2.92GHz CPU with 1.26v, and my RAM at 209MHz, 2-3-2-6-1T.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


@Everyone who cares:
I managed to get the settings I mentioned earlier to be stable!!!! However I went to restart and my board didn't like it. So see my attachments







. I'm going to be working on wrangling *1300MHz HT Link* stable! That's with a 2.92GHz CPU with 1.26v, and my RAM at 209MHz, 2-3-2-6-1T.


Pio, those memory timings are super tight...very nice









Congrats on the 2.92Ghz!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


@Joe:
I'd be in for sure! It depends on the rules of course. I have a stock cooler...but its on my HTPC rig that I can't really pull apart. But I do know what voltages I can use on the stock cooler (1.37v TOPS, gives 70*C load).....if that can count?

@Everyone who cares:
I managed to get the settings I mentioned earlier to be stable!!!! However I went to restart and my board didn't like it. So see my attachments







. I'm going to be working on wrangling *1300MHz HT Link* stable! That's with a 2.92GHz CPU with 1.26v, and my RAM at 209MHz, 2-3-2-6-1T.


will lowering the HT kill the OC?


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PROBN4LYFE*


I can't believe you picked the Manchester OC over my 4000+ 3207...lol!
Hwbot man...lmao!
But thx for keepin and old head in thur!


Hey probyn4life , if I had to guess , id say you live in Maryland , going by your your location info.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


will lowering the HT kill the OC?


I don't really know







. Veedub seemed to think that the HT Link speed has some effect on the overall speed of the machine. So that's my goal here. I'm trying to see just how high I can crank that HT Link up and still be stable.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I don't really know







. Veedub seemed to think that the HT Link speed has some effect on the overall speed of the machine. So that's my goal here. I'm trying to see just how high I can crank that HT Link up and still be stable.


I have a feeling he is correct. I have an older ASUS 939 Mobo ASX-8 or something like that. I couldn't manage to get the RAM to read anything higher that DDR333...this of course is before I was educated to the ways of overclocking. Now I am ninja


----------



## Iceman0803

Happy 4th of July mother flowers!!! Sorry if I sound a little strange , I've been hanging out with my friend Jack (Pio knows what I mean!!







). I hope everyone is well.


----------



## boonie2

JACK ?? Is that JIMS friend? or JOSEs cousin? or JOHNNIES nephew?


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


JACK ?? Is that JIMS friend? or JOSEs cousin? or JOHNNIES nephew?

















They're all acquainted.....


----------



## boonie2

gonna have the "reunion" myself this afternoon


----------



## GuardianOdin

Happy 4th!


----------



## boonie2

HAPPY 4th EVERYONE


----------



## Iceman0803

Happy 4th again to everyone!! I'm off to sleep now.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Holy LUSH greenery, Batman!









Happy 4th of July, S939ers!


----------



## nategr8ns

happy 4th fellow 939ers!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Iceman0803*


Happy 4th of July mother flowers!!! Sorry if I sound a little strange , I've been hanging out with my friend Jack (Pio knows what I mean!!







). I hope everyone is well.










Jack D.?


----------



## boonie2

zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz


----------



## nategr8ns

boonie?
WAKE UP


----------



## Anqt31

Happy 4rth and Boonie2? Is that you or your pc sleeping?


----------



## boonie2

No , that was for ICEMANS benefit , he was going to bed


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PROBN4LYFE* 
I can't believe you picked the Manchester OC over my 4000+ 3207...lol!
Hwbot man...lmao!
But thx for keepin and old head in thur!

If I recall correctly, I could not find a graceful way to link it. If you have some way to do so, I will hook Joe up.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Iceman0803* 
Happy 4th of July mother flowers!!! Sorry if I sound a little strange , I've been hanging out with my friend Jack (Pio knows what I mean!!







). I hope everyone is well.









*Sings* Cause Captain Jack, will get you high tonight...

Just a little push, and you'll be smiling!

In other news, I am home, even if not active yet.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well welcome home to Blitz!!!!! You need to check a page or two back buddy! I got a new stable overclock goin on...and I'm stressing an untouched feature of our 939 parts







.


----------



## SomeDooD

I have a s939 AMD64 4000+ Sandy. I'll post some CPU-Z screenies if you want me to. It's in my HTPC btw. Its completely stock.


----------



## nategr8ns

stock?!?









its OK







. has it ever been overclocked? What motherboard is it seated on?

guys, I've been interested in RC cars, mainly drift cars (because its easier to race with a drift chassis than to drift with a race chassis, or so I've read). I really have NO idea what I'm looking for, other than a kit/parts that will work together with these features: 4wd, a shaft instead of a belt (which has a chance of stretching over time I think), and electric instead of gas/nitro.

and it would be nice to be able to change out the outer-body of it, to give me some extra room to practice painting.


----------



## vwgti

Happy 4th everyone. Im quite excited, I just picked up a new monitor. What a big difference over the 17inch crt I have been stuck with for years. Heres what I got http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/p...9&sku=320-6140 I really cant wait to fire up some games, but have to deal with family as of now.


----------



## thlnk3r

Happy 4th of July guys









Vw, I hope you enjoy your new 20" dispaly









Joe, I'm really itching to see the rules for this new contest! heh


----------



## pioneerisloud

@ Veedub:
Man that is one BEAUTIFUL screen! I'm jealous







. Hope you enjoy it. If you game....you're putting that 8800GT to some good work







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Ooooh. I've always had a soft spot for Dell LCDs. Congrats on the new purchase, veedub!









Contest rules will be announced imminently.

thlnk3r: If we meet for lunch tomorrow, I'll lay it all out for you.


----------



## Blitz6804

Sorry guys, but I have to stay out on this one. I do not have a stock cooler for my X2, as it was a tray. The stock cooler that came with my Sandy likely is not up to the task of cooling the X2. And no, I do not think it possible to get the Sandy to go anywhere; cruddy cheapy motherboard.


----------



## GuardianOdin

bah! what a lack luster July 4th. It seemed like people didn't want to celebrate this year. I can't blame them.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
bah! what a lack luster July 4th. It seemed like people didn't want to celebrate this year. I can't blame them.

Guardian, that was the complete opposite for people here in California. It was just insane tonight at the fireworks event here in town. I felt like I was driving in traffic on the freeway tonight. The roads were a mess. A few people on my street are launchen pretty mortars though









Btw if any members are interested, I'm selling a bunch of *cough* P4's here.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Guardian, that was the complete opposite for people here in California. It was just insane tonight at the fireworks here in town. I felt like I was driving in traffic on the freeway tonight. The roads were a mess. A few people on my street are launchen pretty mortars though









Btw if any members are interested, I'm selling a bunch of *cough* P4's here.

I think a lot of has to do with how people have been laid off this year and how many have lost their homes becuase of that. The spirit just wasn't around.


----------



## boonie2

Kind of "lack luster" here in florida too . There were the typical fireworks displays at the ocean here but the spirit just wasnt there like it used to be. Of course the on again off again rain didnt help much either.


----------



## nategr8ns

well my town never does fireworks, so I either have to go somewhere else or stay on the internet









Thinker I think you just sold your P4s


----------



## txtmstrjoe

There were some fireworks here in Temecula last night, where my parents' house is. We took my little nephews out to watch for a little bit (not to the fireworks show locations, but outside the house, where we still had a good view), but they were too young to appreciate it.

My little four year-old nephew liked his uncle's version of fireworks, though.







You know. No pyrotechnics, but lots of sound. The kind where your body makes the sounds... Oh wait.


----------



## nategr8ns

lol joe,


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
My little four year-old nephew liked his uncle's version of fireworks, though.







You know. No pyrotechnics, but lots of sound. The kind where your body makes the sounds... Oh wait.










Joe, in that case we have fireworks at my house almost everyday...


----------



## Anqt31

Me and my friends launched about 200 mortar rounds here in Orofino. We only had one incident. Aka, a mortar round got thrown in the fire. (Accidentally) You guys would have had fun. If you ever want to play w/ fire works, come to Orofino. No one cares what you launch here! The bigger the better.









What do you guys think about the Antec 300 case.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Oh wow, Anqt. Reminds me of the time when my dad told me about how he and my uncles once built a cannon out of bamboo (true story!). You see, New Year's Eve back in the Philippines is when all the fireworks and firecrackers go kaboom (July 4th here in the States may be pretty with fireworks, but it is NOTHING compared to the sound and fury of New Year's Eve in the Philippines).

Anyway, so they built this cannon out of bamboo. Big bore cannon, not a very long one. They pack this thing full of gunpowder, light the fuse...

Let's say it was plenty loud... and that it woke half the town up when it went BOOM.


----------



## alexgheseger

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Anqt31* 
Me and my friends launched about 200 mortar rounds here in Orofino. We only had one incident. Aka, a mortar round got thrown in the fire. (Accidentally) You guys would have had fun. If you ever want to play w/ fire works, come to Orofino. No one cares what you launch here! The bigger the better.









What do you guys think about the Antec 300 case.

I give the antec 300 a "meh"/10. It's nothing really special. If you can, go for the antec 900, or a CM690.

Or a Coolermaster cosmos...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Alex, a heads-up: Package incoming! ETA to you is circa five days to a week.


----------



## alexgheseger

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Alex, a heads-up: Package incoming! ETA to you is circa five days to a week.









Schweet.

I sent mine off on tuesday, but given the high phail index of canada post lately, you'll probably be stuck waiting 7-10 days.







.

BTW, what accesories did you want with the card? (I can ship any that you want via padded envelope).


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Oh wow, Anqt. Reminds me of the time when my dad told me about how he and my uncles once built a cannon out of bamboo (true story!). You see, New Year's Eve back in the Philippines is when all the fireworks and firecrackers go kaboom (July 4th here in the States may be pretty with fireworks, but it is NOTHING compared to the sound and fury of New Year's Eve in the Philippines).

Anyway, so they built this cannon out of bamboo. Big bore cannon, not a very long one. They pack this thing full of gunpowder, light the fuse...

Let's say it was plenty loud... and that it woke half the town up when it went BOOM.









They must have thought that MCARTHER was returning AGAIN huh?


----------



## nategr8ns

joe what about my package?
I need a darn retention bracket so I can start overclocking on the DFI















doesn't that last smiley remind you of shadow from sonic?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

nate, it is also incoming.









Hehe, yeah, boonie, MacArthur (aka Doug E Fresh in my neck of the woods) was a big hero.







My grandfather (mom's father) was said to be a big admirer.









alex, no accessories needed.







If anything does come up, I'll PM you.


----------



## Anqt31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
They must have thought that MCARTHER was returning AGAIN huh?









That's nothing. Well its something. But one of my friends actually has a cannon. He has a summer jam once a year and we fire it off a couple times at a target far far away. We also get to play with automatic rifles. Thats Orofino for you!


----------



## Blitz6804

as GuardianOdin suggested, we have cookies!

13.75 dozen in fact. (Do not try counting, some are 'missing.' And yes, that is a periodic table on my wall. Yes, that is my armoire; so what!?)


















Of the Xaser TASER, I now have decent pictures:


























Mind not the desk area, it is in disarray because of the company visiting. (For example, the drink on the desk was left behind by my mother.)


----------



## Blitz6804

Where did everyone go last night?

Oh, and for the record, Iandroo was right: when you need 3M double-sided tape, do not use the yellow, double-sided tape roll. Instead, get the red poster tape roll.

I am not sure if anyone noticed, but I removed all case badgery, cleaned the door, and then neatly reapplied them using the poster tape.


----------



## nategr8ns

I have some 3M poster tape squares in my nightstand drawer from a while ago







, wonder if they're still any good

blitz, I see you have a Time-Warner Digital Cable DVR








me 2









and is that a super nintendo and an N64?


----------



## Blitz6804

It is indeed. I made an annotated desk picture a while ago with the old camera to show my sprawl.

*Searches*










You can tell the difference in quality. I will likely get a new one made in the near future. (Once I clean the mess anyway; it is usually like in the old picture.)


----------



## nategr8ns

wow...
so are you a lawyer or a law student?


----------



## Blitz6804

Law student who is fortunate enough to have a parent with a well-paying job.


----------



## nategr8ns

ah, ok


----------



## Blitz6804

News update:

Know how my motherboard was acting wonky and I was going to be RMAing it? Well, I was just talking to Joe, and it decided to commit seppuku. It is stone dead. No beeps, no nadda.

Looks like I am going to be without a motherboard afterall; so much for waiting for the 'new' one to come before shipping this out. (-_-


----------



## txtmstrjoe

ROFL I broke his mobo!









I shouldn't laugh. I might be tempting fate...


----------



## nategr8ns

nice going joe








blitz what motherboard are you getting instead of it to wait while it RMAs?
or are you just going to wait until it gets back from rma?


----------



## Blitz6804

Someone of the club is selling me a GA-K8NSC-939. He just needs to test it before shipping. This is nice, as it is the identical motherboard in. No driver conflicts are likely.


----------



## boonie2

R.........i............p


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, not really. I am still RMAing it. The hope is that the Dimension 8100 case can hold a standard ATX board. If so, kiss goodbye to that socket 423.

I'll put the RMAed board in that case with my San Diego, a spare 550W PSU, a Radeon 9700, an SB Live, and all drives currently in the Dell. All I would need is some valuecheap RAM on the cheap, and I will be set.


----------



## nategr8ns

if it doesn't fit, I think you can probably just screw the board into a piece of wood and be set








Not sure what kind of spacers you would need though...


----------



## Anqt31

I got 1gig (2 x 512MB ddr400) of generic ram if you want it. Let me know.


----------



## Blitz6804

It all depends on price and shipping costs Anqt31. Maybe you can just strap it to one of your many rockets...


----------



## GuardianOdin

I decide to visit some of the other section of the site for a day or two and Joe's breaking peoples Mother's boards....I can't leave for a second I tells ya.


----------



## Anqt31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


It all depends on price and shipping costs Anqt31. Maybe you can just strap it to one of your many rockets...


Lol, I'll pm you and see if we can work something out.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


I decide to visit some of the other section of the site for a day or two and Joe's breaking peoples Mother's boards....I can't leave for a second I tells ya.


Moi? Breaking other people's motherboards?

It wasn't me. It was "Evil Joe." You know. That dude who sometimes impersonates me.









Muhahahahahahaha


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Moi? Breaking other people's motherboards?

It wasn't me. It was "Evil Joe." You know. That dude who sometimes impersonates me.









Muhahahahahahaha










LOL....can an evil Joe actually exist?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
LOL....can an evil Joe actually exist?









Absotively posilutely!









Muhahahahahaha

Oh wait. Are you suggesting there's only one Joe, and that he's evil all the time?


----------



## thlnk3r

Joe, what is this I hear about you breaking motherboards?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, what is this I hear about you breaking motherboards?









It's a rumor.









Sub-Zero spread the rumor that I can break motherboards through some as-of-yet mystical process or super power.

At least, I hope it's just a rumor. What with a few of my boards now in other people's hands... hehehehe


----------



## alexgheseger

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
It's a rumor.









Sub-Zero spread the rumor that I can break motherboards through some as-of-yet mystical process or super power.

At least, I hope it's just a rumor. What with a few of my boards now in other people's hands... hehehehe









No, joe, I swear, i sent your package on tuesday!!! Please don't kill my motherboard! No please NO!!!! (BSOD) *cries*


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Ah...

It's good to have


----------



## nategr8ns

oye...


----------



## Anqt31

Joe... my mobo's broken... (just kidding!) How many were you supposed to have broken?


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, what is this I hear about you breaking motherboards?









It is not a rumor! I am a witness!

*Sobs the loss of his board.*


----------



## pioneerisloud

Joe...you better not be using your mystic powers on the board that I have that used to be yours. I'll bet those are going to be the next subjects to his power.......


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Joe...you better not be using your mystic powers on the board that I have that used to be yours. I'll bet those are going to be the next subjects to his power.......

Hey, no guarantees, pio.

My *DORK* side powers might affect you, they may not...

*Your mileage may vary.*


----------



## boonie2

picked up an Opteron 175 and Corsair twinx pc4400 {just delivered} going to test them out as the FINAL upgrade to my system to see if I can get it stable at 3.0 . my 170 just doesnt want to play at that speed


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
picked up an Opteron 175 and Corsair twinx pc4400 {just delivered} going to test them out as the FINAL upgrade to my system to see if I can get it stable at 3.0 . my 170 just doesnt want to play at that speed

Boonie, good luck with the Operon 175. It's a shame your 170 wasn't a decent OC'er. You need to buy your Opteron's through Joe. You carries the gold


----------



## nategr8ns

ooh







, ddr600! inSANE!!?!!?!!
I want









My opteron 175 won't go above 2.7 for very long. If I ever get a decent block+pump for cheap I'll get to work on my bong project and shoot for 2.8 and onward









oh yeah, a package from joe came today in addition to one from microsoft








one retention bracket in DFI yellow, one round IDE cable in DFI yellow, and one Vista Ultimate unlimited trial with a 180 day Office 2007 trial.

I can't wait! (I have to run to the hardware store to pick up screws for the retention bracket, can any of you guys measure yours? And do I also need nuts/bolts or are the ones built into the backplate enough?


----------



## boonie2

The stepping on my 175 is CCBBE 0617 suppose to be pretty good from what ive read so far . Ill measure those screws in alittle while Nate , when I switch out processors and PM you .....{p.s.} I have 4-512mb Corsair XMS4400s DDR550 2.5-4-4-8 that came with this 175 if anyones interested


----------



## txtmstrjoe

nate, great to know the package got to you safe and sound!









The size of the bolts for the heatsink retention modules are standardized for every S939 (and, I believe, S754) motherboard. If I've got a set floating around (which is possible), I'll mail it in an envelope ASAP. (I may need a reminder if it takes more than, say, a week.)

boonie, what stepping is your new Opteron 175? Your new RAM also sounds deelish! Is it a 2 x 512MB kit?

I hope you have a 3-pointer in your future!









BTW, thlnk3r, I wouldn't say boonie's Opty 170 wasn't a decent OCer; it hit 2.9GHz at less than 1.4V, after all.







I wish I have found a chip that can do that AND be S&M stable.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
BTW, thlnk3r, I wouldn't say boonie's Opty 170 wasn't a decent OCer; it hit 2.9GHz at less than 1.4V

Joe, WOW! Then in that case what is boonie shooting for OC wise?


----------



## boonie2

Joe the stepping is CCBBE 0617 , the ram is 2gb BUT 4-512mb sticks















I dont think theyll do as well as my sigs

THINK3R ............ Im going for the best I can get , 2.9 just doesnt look as good as 3.0














always reach for more


----------



## nategr8ns

Joe thats alright, I can pick them up at the local hardware store, I just have to bring in the backplate to make sure I get a screw with the right threads









so all I need are the two screws? No extra bolts or nuts?


----------



## boonie2

Nate the screws are EXACTLY 1-1/16 in. long from the top of the head to the end of the threads , and they thread right into the bottom plate no nuts or bolts







correction...there should be 2 hex bolts in the bottom of the plate .sorry


----------



## boonie2

Well it jumped right in at 2.75 [email protected] 1.32v / rams at DDR500 , Ill run it here for awhile and let the AS5 set in then start the testing ........ wish me luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Good luck, boonie!


----------



## nategr8ns

good luck boons!
are you testing with ddr500 memory or ddr550? You said something about twinX pc4400s earlier.


----------



## Blitz6804

Good luck boonie. You have my proc's brother by another mother!

Since I have a 'new' camera (and was bored since Xaser TASER is gutted) I figured I would redo my annotated desk photo. That said:

Be kind to the servers; the full file is about 3 mb, only download it once! This is a 25%-scaled thumbnail for convenience's sake.



In other news, I present to you, the ugliest box of all time (that is to say, my RMAing board):










And Joe, this is the CPU with the cooler taken off. From the look of it, it was not too much thermal compound, but I would suspect the fan was not tight enough. (The bracket was bending, I do not see how!) The bald patches have the compound on the cooler instead.


----------



## nategr8ns

oh few, for a second I thought that you only had that little circle of thermal paste









blitz, what games do you have for that snes of yours?
(best console of all time!)


----------



## Blitz6804

Not too terribly many, but still too many for me to bother listing. Maybe in the range of around 30. Many of the classics to be sure.

Anyone happen to have a Skt 478, 400 MHz FSB proc lying around? I found this really... interesting... looking item:

http://www.buy.com/retail/product.as...16&dcaid=17902

Would permit me to put a 2.x GHz Northwood proc in place of the 1.4 GHz Willamette currently in the CF Linux box.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Blitz, from the looks of the photo you provided (good job with the shots, btw; I don't have that talent), the TIM coverage looks okay. The dispersal pattern appears to indicate that the core die area in the middle has enough coverage.

On the other hand, even if the TIM coverage is good, does this actually mean that the contacting surfaces (the bottom of the HSF and the top of the IHS) have optimal contact? In other words, are the IHS and the HSF base flat, especially in their middle sections? (Please forgive me if I've asked you this before.)


----------



## Blitz6804

They appear to be. The dispersion patterns are mostly symmetrical and perfectly complementary (that is, they are nearly round, and both the CPU and the HSF have about the same amount of compound). It is not as nice as the pattern on my Zalman, but I lack the lapping materials I would need to get the Thermalright whipped into shape.


----------



## Anqt31

Speaking of interesting items, check out these items on newegg.

Sempron $20
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...2E16819103245R

4000+ Sandy $45
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819103037

Is either worth picking up?


----------



## Blitz6804

I would personally say no given that they are single cores.

To answer my earlier question, I found a 2.4 GHz Northwood for $1. If the adapter did not cost so much, I might have bought it.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Blitz, if you have an engineering-quality straight edge, I'd test the flatness of the two contacting surfaces. If nothing else, it would establish just what we're dealing with here.

Lapping materials really aren't that expensive, in my opinion. This is a premium kit, and it is under $20.00.









Anqt, is it worth it to get those CPUs? I guess my answer would be that it depends on what you want to accomplish. If you have the money to "play" with (a scarcity these days, to be sure), it's not a bad idea if you just want a chip with which to have fun. Single-cores, though, really aren't as useful as multi-core CPUs anymore, so if you're looking to pick one up to actually use it, I wouldn't strongly recommend it.


----------



## Blitz6804

I would suppose the processor is true. It had good temps (dare I say better than yours ambient-for-ambient) with the Zalman, which had a mirror finish. Taking a metal straight edge to it is uneventful.

As for the Thermalright, depending where I put the straight edge, there are times when you can visibly see gaps. They are likely to the tune of 0.1-0.2 mm, but they are there.

EDIT: Lapping kit en route. I only intend to do the SI-128, not the AMD.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Mirror finish is not always an indicator of perfect flatness, though.









In your defense, I have a Zalman CNPS9500 running in my dad's rig. If Zalman's manufacturing quality standards are top-drawer, then the flatness of my dad's Zalman's base is quite good (and, therefore, yours should also be).

I'm not sure if your cooling can compare with mine ambient-for-ambient. I wish that you could raise your temperatures to mine... (if only so you can appreciate how hellishly hot Scorpion's lair is)


----------



## Blitz6804

I did not mean it like that Joe. I meant mid-winter when your temps came down to mine.

Who knows what would happen in the summer time. It was 34Âº C outside today. 22.5Âº C inside at present.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
good luck boons!
are you testing with ddr500 memory or ddr550? You said something about twinX pc4400s earlier.

No nate ill be using the 500s in my sig. those 550s are 4-512s , id rather just run 2 sticks


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Anqt31* 
Speaking of interesting items, check out these items on newegg.

Sempron $20
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...2E16819103245R

4000+ Sandy $45
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819103037

Is either worth picking up?

Single core or not , Those 4000s are awesome , had one in my old set up and hit 3.0 with it , thats what i was running when i joined here , still have it my wifes system , ill never get rid of it


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
No nate ill be using the 500s in my sig. those 550s are 4-512s , id rather just run 2 sticks









ah ok. 2 sticks at 500 will probably feel faster than 4 sticks at 550 anyway, just because of the memory controller strain issues


----------



## Blitz6804

I would be willing to go out on a limb and say those 550s never ran as such. The best memory wrangler around (Poser) was able to finally break the DDR 400 barrier, but 550 is a bit much to ask with the IMC.

(Especially since the board auto-drops to DDR 333 at high capacities.)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I did not mean it like that Joe. I meant mid-winter when your temps came down to mine.

Who knows what would happen in the summer time. It was 34Âº C outside today. 22.5Âº C inside at present.

Heehee I knew what you meant, but I twisted it the other way around.







Just purely my opinion, cooling comparisons, for whatever they're worth, make much more sense the higher ambient temps are. It's like using S&M for stress testing, in a way: Subject things to the worst-case scenarios, and whatever performs best in such adverse conditions is, by definition, the best.

(That's not to say my chip is the best in this measurement, mind you.







)


----------



## boonie2

Well I couldnt wait any longer







hit 3025.9 1.37v







{CPUZ picture in my profile} STILL CANT GET MY SCREEN SHOTS TO WORK RIGHT







now for stability testing


----------



## Blitz6804

'gratz boonie. You may need to drop the HTM if you want to go much higher.

As to screen shots, you have tried the print screen key, and then pasting in MS Paint or similar?


----------



## nategr8ns

ctrl+print scr gets whole viewing area
alt+print scr gets just current window









are you able to boot at that? or is that Clock-gened? (I ask because its 275.1 FSB)

screen shot says 2.919GHz








lol i lied, i thought you said sig


----------



## boonie2

Think ill stay here till I get familiar with all the tweaks on this board , 825 would be a little better if i dropped to 3x i guess huh? The print screen key never worked on this keyboard for some reason







My next upgrade lol , I think stability will crapout tho , rams at 275 1T {DDR 550}


----------



## nategr8ns

wow... im jealous... of the ram _and_ the processor


----------



## boonie2

I was surprised myself , but getting there is only 1/2 the battle , have to see its gonna be stable now .. going to take some tweaks im sure


----------



## Blitz6804

For the record:

I hate Intel.

Right now, I am compressing a video while doing my usual gambit of background activities. I am experiencing 91/92% processor load. I am experiencing core temps of 74/73Âº C. I would NEVER consider putting this sucker on my lap. Forget the fact it is 8 pounds; I would put my old HP on my lap. (AMD XPM)


----------



## nategr8ns

well it is a laptop...
is it a P4 though? Those things are HOT


----------



## Blitz6804

http://www.overclock.net/system.php?i=21614

C2D


----------



## Anqt31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


For the record:

I hate Intel.

Right now, I am compressing a video while doing my usual gambit of background activities. I am experiencing 91/92% processor load. I am experiencing core temps of 74/73Âº C. I would NEVER consider putting this sucker on my lap. Forget the fact it is 8 pounds; I would put my old HP on my lap. (AMD XPM)


Me too, just, AMD doesn't give me good enough deals on laptops!

Hey Boonie,

Very nice OC... I agree, lower the HT and you could probably get 100Mhz more at least.


----------



## boonie2

THANKS , its running prime now in the living room , im on karens shhhhhhh ......{dell}


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Dell Taco!


----------



## Blitz6804

Not to show my age, but:

↑ ↑ ↓ ↓ ← → ← → B A <START>

(NOTE: Do not do this on the first SNES Konami game, Gradius III. To do so is to self destruct. You instead do:

↑ ↑ ↓ ↓ L R L R B A <START>)


----------



## Anqt31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*









THANKS , its running prime now in the living room , im on karens shhhhhhh ......{dell}

















I understand that! I have a Dell XPS laptop, I'm ashamed to say... It was just too good of a buy. ($1700 lappy for $700)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Anqt, you have a keen nose for a great deal!







Well done!


----------



## GuardianOdin

wanted to update you guys about my rig just shutting down on it's own. Some will disagree but I replaced the battery in the motherboard. The 4 and 3 lights of death has stopped. Now as to why this makes a difference, well that tiny little 3Volt battery keeps the BIOS up and running. A lot of members have said that this wouldn't matter becuase of the PSU. If that was true then it wouldn't need a 3 volt battery.

Anyway the boot up is stable with no lag any more on the Windows XP screen. I have tried the various BIOS setting that would cause the blue screen or no post at all and they all worked. So if your motherboard is over 3 years old. Keep that in mind and those of us that run the Expert,Ultra-D,Venus Mobo's this can affect the way it functions.


----------



## boonie2




----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


A lot of members have said that this wouldn't matter becuase of the PSU. If that was true then it wouldn't need a 3 volt battery.


what about when its unplugged?









thanks for the warning and information, congratulations on getting "stable" again


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


what about when its unplugged?









thanks for the warning and information, congratulations on getting "stable" again










Thanks Nate

and ya got me, I would assume it would be important. But others have disagreed.


----------



## Blitz6804

'Gratz GuarianOdin. To think, weeks of hardships caused by a lousy $12 battery. Hopefully, your trials and tribulations have spared others!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Thanks Blitz, actually it $3 including tax


----------



## Anqt31

Hey guys, if you get a chance look in the appraisal section. Somebody's wants to know a price on an opty 180 and 2gigs of OCZ DDR500. The prices people are saying seem low, what do you think.


----------



## Blitz6804

Even tastier! The battery for my motherboard was $13 from the food store; either they went down in price, or you got a lucky model.

For the record, my battery did not even last two years.

Anqt31 (supra), can you give us a link?

EDIT: Found it!


----------



## nategr8ns

I think I have downloaded the newest drivers for the DFI, but I'm not sure...
If I want to switch out boards before I do a fresh OS install, what should I do? I know its better to do a fresh install...
Should I pre-load the drivers? Or wait until the old board is out and the new is in?
edit: These are the drivers I got from DFI's site:
Marvell LAN 729
AUD Realtek A3751
NF4w2k666E
WinFlash176 (Bios flasher?)
I assume these will work for xp 32-bit


----------



## Blitz6804

The only one you will likely really need is the SATA/RAID driver. Create a floppy driver disk, then swap boards. Restart the PC with the Windows startup disk in, and press F6 as soon as the blue screen comes up. (You should see a message on the bottom for "Press F6 to load SCSI/RAID drivers.) Load the drivers and then install Windows. Once Windows is on, then you load in all the other drivers, starting with the nForce chipset.

This is the procedure for nForce3. I presume nForce4 is the same, but you can never be sure.


----------



## nategr8ns

so I'd be fine if I didn't install drivers now?
because I don't even use SATA...


----------



## Blitz6804

If you do not use SATA, it should not be a problem. I know if I do not preload the drivers, Windows XP install disk cannot even find my SATA drives, only the ATA drives.

By the way, I found out my ATA hard drive is an ATA-100, not even an ATA-133. Nice...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
I think I have downloaded the newest drivers for the DFI, but I'm not sure...
If I want to switch out boards before I do a fresh OS install, what should I do? I know its better to do a fresh install...
Should I pre-load the drivers? Or wait until the old board is out and the new is in?
edit: These are the drivers I got from DFI's site:
Marvell LAN 729
AUD Realtek A3751
NF4w2k666E
WinFlash176 (Bios flasher?)
I assume these will work for xp 32-bit

EDIT: Nevermind, way out of the loop on this one. Good job Blitz!


----------



## nategr8ns

lame ata-100...









most onboard controllers are only ata-100 anyway, so it doesn't really matter...
(not sure what the gigabyte k8nsc has though)

edit: think your post got in during mine.
you should read my sig







. Ultra-D "en-closet" (its actually on-bed though). I'm probably not going to do a fresh install for a little while, as I just did one less than 3 weeks ago and I hate backing up all of the stuff I've done since then (photoshop jobs, downloaded apps, stuff that I would have to re-download et cetera)

so I will be doing a fresh install later with Vista Ultimate, and maybe this thing I found called TinyXP.
is it legal to use TinyXP if I own XP normally? (It's a tweaked XP that is faster or something)


----------



## Blitz6804

Technically speaking nate, no it is not legal. TinyXP uses a pirated version of Windows and then cuts out the "fat." It is possible that XPLite is more legitimate since it uses your key for Windows. Personally, I would not consider either. If I remember right, the Windows EULA says something about how you must take the OS "as-is" and any modifications on how it runs are illegal. I will look into it later.

(Found it: http://download.microsoft.com/docume...9a853868a1.pdf See Paragraph 5. Note, this is a boxed version OS. The OEM EULA is different.)

And yes, my board runs ATA-133. The DVDÂ±RW is ATA-133, the WD120GB is ATA-100. (And the WD80GB is SATA-150 whereas the HDS750GB is SATA-300 running at SATA-150 speeds.)


----------



## nategr8ns

ah cool, thanks
+


----------



## Blitz6804

Poor Joe. He fought Superman, and look what happened to him!


----------



## nategr8ns

lol I was thinking about this kind of thing a few days ago when I saw Sub-zero against some DC guy (probably also superman) in the game trailer









scorpion = owned by his own "weavings"


----------



## vwgti

HAHAHAHA blitz, thats a good one.


----------



## Blitz6804

The original game trailer was Sub-Zero versus Batman. What a lame matchup that is... we know who wins! *Wink wink, nudge nudge.*


----------



## nategr8ns

oh yeah that one








I dunno blitz, the dark knight is pretty BASS


----------



## Blitz6804

I have an announcement to make:

Corsair is really stupid!

Recall I RMAed my RAM. They asked me if I wanted a refund or a replacement, I asked for a refund. They sent a replacement anyway. I refused shipment. They sent another. I refused shipment. They sent a check. They sent more RAM. I refused shipment. They sent more RAM. I refused shipment.

Today, I received my fifth set of replacement RAM, even though I have already cashed the check!

Now I am just going to hold onto it and see what happens. Let us see if they try to bill me for it, and if so, then they can print me a shipping label to take it back! And people wonder why stuff is so expensive; idiots sent it both ways cross country five times now!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I have an announcement to make:

Corsair is really stupid!

Recall I RMAed my RAM. They asked me if I wanted a refund or a replacement, I asked for a refund. They sent a replacement anyway. I refused shipment. They sent another. I refused shipment. They sent a check. They sent more RAM. I refused shipment. They sent more RAM. I refused shipment.

Today, I received my fifth set of replacement RAM, even though I have already cashed the check!

Now I am just going to hold onto it and see what happens. Let us see if they try to bill me for it, and if so, then they can print me a shipping label to take it back! And people wonder why stuff is so expensive; idiots sent it both ways cross country five times now!


Blitz, so what your trying to tell me is your received 5 sets of memory from Corsair?


----------



## Blitz6804

Exactly what I am saying. They sent me a check, and five sets of memory. To date, four sets have been set back. I am going to wait and see what happens with this fifth set.


----------



## nategr8ns

after I had a check I would just keep everything else they sent, accepting it as a gift








I don't see why not, if they send something to you it should become your property (but you're the law student, not me







)


----------



## Blitz6804

Might be construed as unlawful conversion or possession of mislaid goods. This is why I refused shipment on the first four. Each time I got one, I sent another email to the guy handling my RMA, usually without response. After the last one, I even called them too! After a much longer period of time than usual, they sent this one back out. Like I said, I am going to see what happens with this one, my UPS driver left before I noticed it was from Corsair.

Also note please, that this is a recursive Post 939. I've joined the club!

(Proof? You want stinking proof? Fine, see this!








)


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Poor Joe. He fought Superman, and look what happened to him!


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Might be construed as unlawful conversion or possession of mislaid goods. This is why I refused shipment on the first four. Each time I got one, I sent another email to the guy handling my RMA, usually without response. After the last one, I even called them too! After a much longer period of time than usual, they sent this one back out. Like I said, I am going to see what happens with this one, my UPS driver left before I noticed it was from Corsair.

Also note please, that this is a recursive Post 939. I've joined the club!

(Proof? You want stinking proof? Fine, see this!








)

there an extra ")" in the last post

what do you mean you've joined the club? Just now?
wha?!?


----------



## Blitz6804

No, there is no extra parenthesis. There is a close parenthesis after each close image tag, and so, that is where it is.

And I just joined the 939 post club.

To commemorate the occasion, I just downloaded [email protected] for my PS3.


----------



## nategr8ns

oh... lol I totally missed that


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


oh... lol I totally missed that










Nate, don't worry about it. Blitz is a addict of many sorts


----------



## Anqt31

congrats blitz, um now next step in the club is 939 reps... that should take awhile!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


congrats blitz, um now next step in the club is 939 reps... that should take awhile!










The way things are going, I'm willing to wager thlnk3rb377 gets there first!


----------



## Anqt31

yeah, he has a few more reps; you'll probably get their first though!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Pffft. Scorpion is undead.

We undead need not to procreate!


----------



## vwgti

Well friends of my old club just wanted to share my findings. This is the max stable I can wrestle from this chip. The first 3dmark06 is with my 24/7 gpu oc, and the second is my max gpu oc where temps get a bit uncomfortable. Any suggestions on any drivers to try and push further on the 3dmark score. Im using the 175.19 drivers right now. Thanks guys and I hope all is well in the 939 world.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Looking good, veedub!

Wish I could proffer any advice vis-a-vis graphics drivers, but it's not my cup of tea.









But just FYI, I'm running 175.16. Absolutely no problems.

Hope you get better info than mine, veedub!


----------



## nategr8ns

I believe the 177.whatever crunched numbers faster (i.e. folding







) so it makes sense that they would do better in artificial benchmarks.

you have to use a modded .inf to install though, or just copy the .inf file from the unzipped 175.19 folder into the unzipped 177 folder


----------



## vwgti

Thanks nate I shall look into those. Also thanks joe for the confidence. Well guys heres my suicidal run at 1.61 vcore. Just wish I could stabilize this speed, its so close but so far from reach.


----------



## Anqt31

hey vwgti, nice OC... any sign of a AM2 club, if so put me down, I have an am2 machine also. 5000BE @ 2.9 something.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well guys, I just LOVE Microsoft and their freebies! I just got in 3 MORE free copies of Windows Vista 32bit Ultimates! I got 3 MORE coming to my parent's house, and 2 MORE coming to my own house! So looks like for a while and whole rigs I decide to get rid of will be going with Vista, lol.

And on that note...EVERY ONE of my home rigs will have Vista legitimately installed on them! Its a good day!


----------



## vwgti

Nice to hear pioneer, so there not shipping 64 ultimate huh? I guess Ill fry my copy when it arrives, as vista is no use unless its 64.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vwgti*


Nice to hear pioneer, so there not shipping 64 ultimate huh? I guess Ill fry my copy when it arrives, as vista is no use unless its 64.


Unfortunately no. The latest giveaway of Vista "Evaluation" Ultimate, comes packaged with Windows Vista 32bit Ultimate and MS Office 2007 180 day trial. I have no clue how long the Vista will work for, but it APPEARS to be a legitimate 100% retail copy of Vista 32bit Ultimate. Just like what shipped with the MS Feedback program back in December. Except this one is 32bit only







. And no reselling again...but they say nothing about installing it onto a computer and selling that computer with it on there







.


----------



## GuardianOdin

I was able to test out Vista 64 and boy was it faster. Unfortunately it was a evaluation copy and I only used it for a day when I found out my scanner "which I really need" did not work with it.


----------



## Salku

Alright Alright Here We Go An Update Of My Sucka

CPU-Z

I Should Try To Overclock It Now Hu...?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Yes!


----------



## thlnk3r

Salku, please do. Make sure to follow up with us on your results. I haven't seen a Venice OC in a while









Good luck!

Btw Welcome to the club!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Salku, please do. Make sure to follow up with us on your results. I haven't seen a Venice OC in a while









Good luck!

bah! I have a 3500 Venice...my first 939 CPU! Maybe one of these days after I move I'll get to OC'ing it. Last I remember I was at 2.5Ghz, but that was before I really knew what I was doing.


----------



## Salku

Since im still considered a new kid on the block I really don't know where to start. Since I hear that a San Diego is good to have is this a good one to have.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...2E16819103037R


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Holy cow!

That's so cheap it's TEMPTING.

San Diegos are identical to the single-core Venus Opterons. By and large, these gals were a honey to OC. For $24.00 plus shipping, I'd jump at the chance!

By the way, Salku, I've updated your place on the roster to reflect your new clock.







And thanks for the link!


----------



## Salku

Well I already bookmarked the page and will go with that then when i get the $$$ but yea what would you recommend for a cpu cooler?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Salku* 
Well I already bookmarked the page and will go with that then when i get the $$$ but yea what would you recommend for a cpu cooler?

Salku, I've been hearing that this cooler is a beast: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835233003

Here's a decent review on it as well: http://www.frostytech.com/articlevie...articleID=2233

Good luck


----------



## Salku

Im Considering that one right there and this is my current case on it
This is My Current Case Ninja 
along with that i have a raidmax modular 630


----------



## GuardianOdin

hey this guy needs some help with a Opteron 248 he found. here the Link. I wasn't sure if he could use it in a 939 Mobo.


----------



## XxXSpitfireXxX

Hey guys, I want in on this club !

Also, I might have a problem with my s939 CPU, it may be dieing. I think. I get errors about everything and nothing and sometimes BSODs and crashes. Hangs too. Should I post details or not ?


----------



## nategr8ns

pio, I got two copies of it








who do you sign up? I just did me and my dad. Did you do you and froggy? And a pet for the third person?









Go salku go!

spitfire, maybe buy a new processor anyway, as yours is single core and its time for an upgrade anyway








a dual core opteron should last most people until Intel's new socket, and AMD's new tech should be just around the corner from that.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *XxXSpitfireXxX*


Hey guys, I want in on this club !

Also, I might have a problem with my s939 CPU, it may be dieing. I think. I get errors about everything and nothing and sometimes BSODs and crashes. Hangs too. Should I post details or not ?


Sure; if you can get the details of the BSOD, we may be able to help you. If you cannot read them before the PC restarts, turn off auto-restart.

Right-click "My Computer," click "Properties," click the "Advanced" tab, under "Startup and Recovery," click "Settings," then uncheck "Automatically restart."

If you want to join the club, just hook us up with a screen capture of your CPU-Z page or get a validation link from the same. CPU-Z is freeware, available from CPUID.com.


----------



## Anqt31

hey pio, congrats on winning the fan controller...

@nate... they are free OS, if you don't want them, I'll take them


----------



## nategr8ns

nah anqt, we're both going to use our copies


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *XxXSpitfireXxX* 
Hey guys, I want in on this club !

Also, I might have a problem with my s939 CPU, it may be dieing. I think. I get errors about everything and nothing and sometimes BSODs and crashes. Hangs too. Should I post details or not ?

Spitfire, have you had a chance to run a memory diagnostic? I'd recommend downloading memtest and run a few passes. Make sure to run tests 5 and 8 each for at least an hour. Perhaps you have a faulty/failing stick of memory that is finally starting to show it's true colors









Good luck and let us know!


----------



## pioneerisloud

@Nate:
I signed up myself at our house and my parent's house. Froggy signed up at our house and her parent's house. And we signed up all 4 of our parents (both mom's and dad's). Which brings my grand total up to 8 legitimate copies of Vista! And I didn't have to pay for ONE of them!!

@Spitfire:
I'd have to agree with thlnk3rb377 on this one. Sounds to me personally like its either a RAM issue or a GPU driver issue. Those seem to be the most COMMON to provide BSOD's. Try to get us EXACTLY what the error message says, and I'm sure we can help you further.


----------



## nategr8ns

ah so you're counting yourself twice








so wouldn't three copies go to each of your parents' houses? You just ask them to forward it to you right?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
ah so you're counting yourself twice








so wouldn't three copies go to each of your parents' houses? You just ask them to forward it to you right?









Well, yes that is correct. 3 copies are going to my parent's house, and 3 went to her parent's house. All we gotta do is pick them up when they arrive (3 at her parent's already did).


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
@Nate:
I signed up myself at our house and my parent's house. Froggy signed up at our house and her parent's house. And we signed up all 4 of our parents (both mom's and dad's). Which brings my grand total up to 8 legitimate copies of Vista! And I didn't have to pay for ONE of them!!

Count again hunny... you forgot about the 2 legit copies we already got for free....Thats 10 total free legal copies of Vista!


----------



## GuardianOdin

awww hunny bunny......giggles


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
awww hunny bunny......giggles
















Hush you! The joys of having your fiance in at OCN....YOU GET TO HEAR HUNNY ON OCN!!!! :swearing:


----------



## GuardianOdin

Hey, there ain't noth'in better I say!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I wish MY girlfriend was into this hobby like froggy is.









On the other hand, I don't want her to know how much I've put into this hobby...


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *froggy1986* 
Count again hunny... you forgot about the 2 legit copies we already got for free....Thats 10 total free legal copies of Vista!

















LOOKOUT ITS A MONOPOLY







Bill Gates retired and their makin a run for Microsoft


----------



## boonie2

didnt someone post a link for an upgrade to 64bit for $10 from microsoft? {Pio I still have that memory whenever your ready , didnt forget asbout ya}


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
didnt someone post a link for an upgrade to 64bit for $10 from microsoft? {Pio I still have that memory whenever your ready , didnt forget asbout ya}

Oh crap!














I totally forgot about that memory! I've got two sets coming here soon (possibly).....but hey, what's one more, right? Shoot me a PM...my check on the 20th is going to be my best check yet! I may be able to afford 3. An extra set might come in handy if I were to (lets say)....get another 939 machine up and going sometime







.

Yeah, shoot me a PM, and I'll see what I can do on the 20th







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Whoa! Check it out! Fezzik has 165 REP!









I call for a REP Freeze!


----------



## boonie2

no problem , just thought id mention it , I remember you said you were strapped for cash


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Whoa! Check it out! Fezzik has 165 REP!









I call for a REP Freeze!









woot! good catch. I call dibs on the chocolate chip cookies!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

You can have 165 double-deck, double-dipped chocolate chip cookies!









Holy sweet tooth, Batman!


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I wish MY girlfriend was into this hobby like froggy is.









On the other hand, I don't want her to know how much I've put into this hobby...


----------



## Blitz6804

Forgive the ignorance; but what is the significance of 165?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


You can have 165 double-deck, double-dipped chocolate chip cookies!









Holy sweet tooth, Batman!


Do I get free health care when I become a diabetic?









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Forgive the ignorance; but what is the significance of 165?

































I say I say I say listen here son!......Opteron 165


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Forgive the ignorance; but what is the significance of 165?


Look in Pio's ( or GO's) sig rig and see if ya catch on that way....


----------



## boonie2

Double dipped / Double stacked







oh my teeth hurt


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Forgive the ignorance; but what is the significance of 165?


Opteron 165 = The slowest (yet most overclockable) dual-core S939 Opteron.


----------



## Blitz6804

Oh. DUH! Can you tell I am a Toledo user and not a Denmark user?

So yeah... how long until I hit my 4400th post? Or should it be 4800th post given the speed it works at? (When it works.)


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Opteron 165 = The slowest (yet most overclockable) dual-core S939 Opteron.










slowest? me am ride little yellow school bus?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Oh. DUH! Can you tell I am a Toledo user and not a Denmark user?

So yeah... how long until I hit my 4400th post? Or should it be 4800th post given the speed it works at? (When it works.)


Just remember, though: Toledo = Denmark in all but name.









How long till you get 4400/4800 posts? You have to post like thlnk3r to get to such lofty heights!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


slowest? me am ride little yellow school bus?


You? Never.









Slow only at stock, mind you.


----------



## GuardianOdin

ah good. I thought I had a dud for a sec.....NOT! lol

Ok guys and gal I am off to bed.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Just remember to BRUSH, G.O.! Tooth decay (especially after 165 double-dipped, double-stacked chocolate chip cookies) happens whilst you sleep.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Just remember to BRUSH, G.O.! Tooth decay (especially after 165 double-dipped, double-stacked chocolate chip cookies) happens whilst you sleep.









Brushes the one tooth left

Thanks.....whistle.....good...whistle...idea!


----------



## Blitz6804

Quick question: Who here plays Guitar Hero 2, Guitar Hero 3, or Rockband, and has an XBox Live Gold membership? I am trying to see if there are enough people I know to play with online to warrant buying it.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
awww hunny bunny......giggles
















Pioneer, what is this I hear about hunny LOL


----------



## pioneerisloud

See what you started G.O.??? :swearing:


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Oh hunny, don't get mad.

Get glad!


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Oh hunny, don't get mad.

Get glad!











ROFL


----------



## pioneerisloud

DON'T YOU START TOO!!!! :swearing:


----------



## Blitz6804

Aww, its okay hunny, we still love you no matter how temperamental you might get.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Aww, its okay hunny, we still love you no matter how temperamental you might get.












Bwahahahahahahahahahaha


















We have a winrar!


----------



## Anqt31

what's this about getting glad... how is that possible with a tooth ache?


----------



## Salku

it seems that you can be happy losing a tooth


----------



## pioneerisloud

Ugh. I give up with you guys!


----------



## Anqt31

What, give up on us... no, that means more no more successful OC's.

Hey btw what about that contest...

@joe, you changed your avatar again, what's wrong... I liked the new one


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Whoa! Check it out! Fezzik has 165 REP!









I call for a REP Freeze!










nice find!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Oh hunny, don't get mad.

Get glad!




























Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*











Bwahahahahahahahahahaha


















We have a winrar!










Wha??!? I say we have a winZIP!


----------



## Salku

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


nice find!

















Wha??!? I say we have a winZIP!


I 2nd


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


See what you started G.O.??? :swearing:


I was happily asleep. What happened?









Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*









DON'T YOU START TOO!!!! :swearing:


clears throat.......Roll On The Floor Laughing! and Out Loud









Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*











Bwahahahahahahahahahaha


















We have a winrar!










We have a WinRar!....classic!


----------



## Salku

welcome back to the cyber world


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Salku*


welcome back to the cyber world


Yaaaawn...smack smack...Dreaming of large women









If ya seen the movie...that makes sense


----------



## vwgti

Well guys seems the am2/am2+ club you egged me on to start aint taking off that well. Im going to give it till tommorow at 10pm est and ask to have the thread removed. I miss this club


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vwgti*


Well guys seems the am2/am2+ club you egged me on to start aint taking off that well. Im going to give it till tommorow at 10pm est and ask to have the thread removed. I miss this club










You have to give time, It's only been open for about a week right? People will start to show up and take notice. It took awhile for this club to take off as well.

BTW, how does one make the letters upside down like in the 939 sig?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vwgti*


Well guys seems the am2/am2+ club you egged me on to start aint taking off that well. Im going to give it till tommorow at 10pm est and ask to have the thread removed. I miss this club










Vw, don't worry about it, just stick it out and wait. Your bound to get some hits on the thread


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vwgti* 
Well guys seems the am2/am2+ club you egged me on to start aint taking off that well. Im going to give it till tommorow at 10pm est and ask to have the thread removed. I miss this club









veedub, don't do that!

As thlnk3r and G.O. have said, it takes time for things to jell. It's all of two days old.







There will be really active days, and there will be some slow days.

The AM2/AM2+ Club is a wee infant right now, but with TLC and enthusiasm, it will grow up to make you proud!









Keep the faith, veedub!


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


You have to give time, It's only been open for about a week right? People will start to show up and take notice. It took awhile for this club to take off as well.

BTW, how does one make the letters upside down like in the 939 sig?


I beleive it is in charmap
Start, Run (Start+R), charmap

I used to use that to make my CSS names look fancy


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
You have to give time, It's only been open for about a week right? People will start to show up and take notice. It took awhile for this club to take off as well.

BTW, how does one make the letters upside down like in the 939 sig?

G.O., go ask pio hunny; if I recall correctly, the flipped fonts were done on a website, the link to which I don't have. All you had to do after typing in your newly-flipped message was copy and paste it to wherever you wished.


----------



## thlnk3r

Guardian, I hope this is what your looking for: http://www.en.fliptext.net/

Enjoy


----------



## Blitz6804

˙ƃop ʎzɐl ǝɥʇ ɹǝʌo pǝdɯnɾ xoɟ uʍoɹq ʞɔınb ǝɥʇ

There, now you have every letter of the English language.


----------



## nategr8ns

text files use that sentence as a preview for fonts


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Anqt, my apologies; I forgot to address a point you raised a couple of posts ago: I will imminently be discussing the particulars of our next Club-Exclusive Contest with our Club's officers. Points of discussion will mainly be the rules and the time table for our contest.

Expect a formal announcement by mid-week next week; I'd like to believe that we'll be able to hash everything out by then.









BTW, Club Officers, would you like to hold these rules discussions on group chat in real time, or via mass emailing?

Thanks, everyone! This next contest promises to be something incredibly fun for all who are chomping at the bit at some competitive OCing!


----------



## Blitz6804

Do you mean all club officers, or only the senior ones? (Difference of 5 people versus 3 people respectively.) If GuardianOdin has YIM, that is the easiest way to network. Depending where in Indiana he is, he may be EDT with me, or may be EST/CDT. Either way, we are a few hours ahead of you West Coasters!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


=
BTW, Club Officers, would you like to hold these rules discussions on group chat in real time, or via mass emailing?


Joe, sounds good to me. The officers are also allowed to be involved in this contest as well right?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Do you mean all club officers, or only the senior ones? (Difference of 5 people versus 3 people respectively.) If GuardianOdin has YIM, that is the easiest way to network. Depending where in Indiana he is, he may be EDT with me, or may be EST/CDT. Either way, we are a few hours ahead of you West Coasters!

All Club Officers (yes, all five of us) will have input on this.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, sounds good to me. The officers are also allowed to be involved in this contest as well right?









But of course! It simply won't be the same without you, of all people.









(Just don't be calling pio "hunny" anytime, though...)


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
˙ƃop ʎzɐl ǝɥʇ ɹǝʌo pǝdɯnɾ xoɟ uʍoɹq ʞɔınb ǝɥʇ

There, now you have every letter of the English language.

Where's the "s"?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hmm... froggy got you there, Sub-Zero...


----------



## Blitz6804

Stupid verb tense...

Should be "The quick brown fox jumps over the lazy dog."

That being:

".ƃop ʎzɐl ǝɥʇ ɹǝʌo sdɯnɾ xoɟ uʍoɹq ʞɔınb ǝɥʇ"

Regardless, you already had the S. Like Z, S is the same regardless whether it is upside down or rightside up. So you already DID have every letter of the English language from my post. The S in "English" had it covered. So I accept no defeat.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
*˙ƃop ʎzɐl ǝɥʇ ɹǝʌo pǝdɯnɾ xoɟ uʍoɹq ʞɔınb ǝɥʇ*

There, now you have every letter of the Engli*s*h language.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Stupid verb tense...

Should be "The quick brown fox jumps over the lazy dog."

That being:

".ƃop ʎzɐl ǝɥʇ ɹǝʌo sdɯnɾ xoɟ uʍoɹq ʞɔınb ǝɥʇ"

Regardless, you already had the S. Like Z, S is the same regardless whether it is upside down or rightside up. So you already DID have every letter of the English language from my post. The S in "English" had it covered. So I accept no defeat.

Wow, very technical!

@Joe:
I've got today off work, so we could do the whole chat thing today if all works out for everyone else. Otherwise anytime after 9pm PST would USUALLY be okay with me if its a work day







. But yeah, I'm up for a little YIM chat.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Wow, very technical!

@Joe:
I've got today off work, so we could do the whole chat thing today if all works out for everyone else. Otherwise anytime after 9pm PST would USUALLY be okay with me if its a work day







. But yeah, I'm up for a little YIM chat.

Pio, good suggestion. I am available today around lunch but don't expect a lot of typing from me. I'll be stuffing my face full of food









Next available day for me would probably be Fri or Sat.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Pio, good suggestion. I am available today around lunch but don't expect a lot of typing from me. I'll be stuffing my face full of food









Next available day for me would probably be Fri or Sat.

I work Friday and Saturday, so it'd have to be after 9pm PST for me. I work Sunday too, but after that...its really anybody's guess as to my next day off.


----------



## Blitz6804

Unless a motherboard hurries up and gets to me though, I am likely gonna be out of this one.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Unless a motherboard hurries up and gets to me though, I am likely gonna be out of this one.

Blitz, I still have that DFI nForce 3 Ultra-DR board for sale if your looking for an extra


----------



## azt3c

Hi guys, i have a problem, and i think here i can get the solution.

I have an Epox 9NDA3i nForce 3 250 and i was using an athlon 64 3000, now i bought a X2 3800 and it just wont start, i've heard that i need to update the bios, i did that and nothing. i was using the latest bios, this one 9n3i6502.bin, i've changed to this one to see if anything changes but nothing (9n3i5908.bin)

The PC: antec truepower 480w, 4x512 (2x512 ddr400 / 2x512 ddr333), X800XL, 120GB HD, DVDR.

i don't know what to do !


----------



## nategr8ns

try it with only 1 stick of ram and without the harddrive. do you have a case speaker plugged in?


----------



## pioneerisloud

The NForce 3 series chipsets really weren't all that great at handling dual cores to begin with unfortunately. I'd have to side with Nate here....try it with only 1 stick of RAM and see if that helps. If it does, try 2 sticks in DUAL CHANNEL. If that works, well then keep yourself limited to 1GB of RAM instead of 2.


----------



## Blitz6804

Hey azt3c, my chipset buddy!

You have the most up-to-date BIOS on your motherboard? Try running only the DDR 400s or only the DDR 333s, not both. Are you sure the chip is good? Who did you buy it from; a reputable seller, or fly-by-night industries? What beep codes are you getting when you push the power button?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *azt3c*


Hi guys, i have a problem, and i think here i can get the solution.

I have an Epox 9NDA3i nForce 3 250 and i was using an athlon 64 3000, now i bought a X2 3800 and it just wont start, i've heard that i need to update the bios, i did that and nothing. i was using the latest bios, this one 9n3i6502.bin, i've changed to this one to see if anything changes but nothing (9n3i5908.bin)

The PC: antec truepower 480w, 4x512 (2x512 ddr400 / 2x512 ddr333), X800XL, 120GB HD, DVDR.

i don't know what to do !


Azt3c, according to Epox website all Socket 939 models support Athlon X2 processors. Are you able to put your 3000+ back in to make sure that it is posting correctly? I noticed you posted on tomshardware forum and it was said in a previous post that 9n3i5908.bin BIOS (08 Sep 2005) works with dual core processors. Put the 3000+ back in and make sure it POSTS. Perhaps you accidentally forgot to hook something up during the processor swap.

Good luck


----------



## azt3c

in another mobo works perfectly, the pc does not have a speakers it has a 2 (letter, number) code thing and it says "CI" and thats it.

i try it with just the 2 512 DDr400 and its the same.


----------



## Blitz6804

I will tell you what is annoying:

EPoX does not have a manual online for that board. If you have the manual, look up what the code means.

As to speakers: we mean the case speaker. The thing that beeps when the computer turns on. Most cases come with them, if not, you can find one online for as little as $0.50. This is not the same as real speakers or headphones.


----------



## azt3c

oh ok, i have one, i will connect it and i will tell you.

i have the manual and its funny cos it does not say anything about the different codes.


----------



## Blitz6804

Kinda defeats the purpose of having an LED code diagnosis...

I agree with Thlnk3r here; might not be a bad idea dropping your San Deigo back in to ensure something did not go wrong with the proc-swap.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *azt3c*


in another mobo works perfectly, the pc does not have a speakers it has a 2 (letter, number) code thing and it says "CI" and thats it.

i try it with just the 2 512 DDr400 and its the same.


Aztec, please refer to this link, it may be helpful in regards to your BIOS error code "CI": http://forums.devshed.com/motherboar...lem-90940.html.

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

@ pio & thlnk3r: Regarding chatting at daytime hours during the workweek: That's a negative, good buddies. Negative chat functionality here at work. Not to say that a daytime conversation is impossible, but I can't be in it if I'm here at work.


----------



## nategr8ns

quick question fellow 939ers:
Is it safe to use AS5 on an NF4 northbridge? I ask because AS5 is electrically conductive, and it looks like there are exposed circuits around the NB chip.
I'm probably going to get AS5 or arctic ceramic depending your responses.


----------



## Blitz6804

If you are VERY careful, yes. It is easier to just use the ceramic.


----------



## AMOCO

Hell i use it on all my video chips,chipsets, & cpu's


----------



## nategr8ns

but being me, and new to the art of applying thermal paste, it is probably better to use ceramic?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
@ pio & thlnk3r: Regarding chatting at daytime hours during the workweek: That's a negative, good buddies. Negative chat functionality here at work. Not to say that a daytime conversation is impossible, but I can't be in it if I'm here at work.









Well I'll also be free this evening for a chat as well







. Just let me know whatever we decide.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
but being me, and new to the art of applying thermal paste, it is probably better to use ceramic?









I'd just go ahead and use Ceramique if you've got some handy. Much better to be safe than sorry. And the temp difference is near nothing, so it doesn't REALLY matter which paste you use between the two. Just use Ceramique since it's not electrically conductive







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

nate, that MX-2 I gave you a while back: Is that all gone? That should be perfectly safe for a NB, as it is not electrically-conductive.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
quick question fellow 939ers:
Is it safe to use AS5 on an NF4 northbridge? I ask because AS5 is electrically conductive, and it looks like there are exposed circuits around the NB chip.
I'm probably going to get AS5 or arctic ceramic depending your responses.

Nate, I've received motherboards that have had AS5 spilt all over the chipset. I have also gotten thermal compound a few no no spots on my motherboard and it still ran fan. Just be careful as Blitz suggested. I usually use a credit card to apply the TIM on the DIE.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I use the eyeball and heatsink method. I see quite a few people advocate the plastic-clingwrap-on-a-finger method. It is all up to you. If you use the credit card, it might be better to use one of those fake ones they give you when they are trying to get you to open an account.


----------



## nategr8ns

joe, doesn't the mx-2 have silver?
doesn't silver conduct electricity? (@ joe and thinker)

im


----------



## Blitz6804

No, MX-2 is a non-silver TIM. And if I read the reviews right, it tends to outperform Artic Silver 5 by about 2-4%.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

nate, I've not read a single thing saying that MX-2 has any silver content. On the other hand, most of what I've read says that it is completely electrically non-conductive.









To answer your question, silver is electrically conductive.







Magnificently so, in fact.


----------



## nategr8ns

oh ok, thanks for clarifying the content








I probably have enough MX-2 to reseat my NB (probably more than once if I do it right this time







), and I hope to be trying out the SLI mod when 8800GTs fall a little more in price and I start needing more performance. I'm assuming this will happen by the time the next Intel/AMD lines start rolling out (new intel socket, I assume new AMD socket)


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


oh ok, thanks for clarifying the content








I probably have enough MX-2 to reseat my NB (probably more than once if I do it right this time







), and I hope to be trying out the SLI mod when 8800GTs fall a little more in price and I start needing more performance.  I'm assuming this will happen by the time the next Intel/AMD lines start rolling out (new intel socket, I assume new AMD socket)


SLI mod??


----------



## Blitz6804

DFI NF4 Ultra-D's can be turned into DFI NF4 SLI's with some conductive material and a little labor.


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


DFI NF4 Ultra-D's can be turned into DFI NF4 SLI's with some conductive material and a little labor.


What does it involve?? I looked up the board and saw it already has 2 PCIx slots.

I'm guessing its similar to a pencil volt mod??


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Just be aware, nate, that not all Ultra-Ds can be SLI-modded. Only the older versions of the Ultra-D were modifiable; after a certain date (unfortunately, I cannot ascertain what this date is), DFI complied with nVidia's dictates to revise the Ultra-D so that it can no longer be SLI-modded.


----------



## Blitz6804

Thats right, it does have 2 PCI-E slots. If I recall correctly, you remove the NF4 heat sink, put a bit of conductive paint or a pencil to complete a particular circuit, and then reseat the sink.

(See: an article on the subject.)


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Just be aware, nate, that not all Ultra-Ds can be SLI-modded. Only the older versions of the Ultra-D were modifiable; after a certain date (unfortunately, I cannot ascertain what this date is), DFI complied with nVidia's dictates to revise the Ultra-D so that it can no longer be SLI-modded.


Hmm, Is there much of a GPU bottleneck with your rig?? (Slightly off topic I know







)


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Thats right, it does have 2 PCI-E slots. If I recall correctly, you remove the NF4 heat sink, put a bit of conductive paint or a pencil to complete a particular circuit, and then reseat the sink.

(See: an article on the subject.)


yeah, that's what I was thinking...doesn't sound too bad...and sounds reversible...


----------



## Anqt31

here we go with mobo's going down again...

[Tomorrows OCN News Headlines]

The 100th motherboard in the Socket 939 Appreciation club went dead. What is wrong with those s939ers? Oh, btw it was caused by someone trying to pencil mod SLI mod an DFI Ultra-D.

[Next Week's wanted Section]

Wanted: any socket 939 mobo. we just cant keep them alive.
-S939 club


----------



## Blitz6804

Be careful. While I know not the exact product license for a DFI motherboard, rest assured, that nVidia would consider this mod illegal. It OBVIOUSLY voids your warranty at the very least.


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


here we go with mobo's going down again...

[Tomorrows OCN News Headlines]

The 100th motherboard in the Socket 939 Appreciation club went dead. What is wrong with those s939ers? Oh, btw it was caused by someone trying to pencil mod SLI mod an DFI Ultra-D.

[Next Week's wanted Section]

Wanted: any socket 939 mobo. we just cant keep them alive.
-S939 club


LMAO...sounds like its happened once to many times lol


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Be careful. While I know not the exact product license for a DFI motherboard, rest assured, that nVidia would consider this mod illegal. It OBVIOUSLY voids your warranty at the very least.


oh... warranties are good... well it says 3 years, but I don't have a receipt for it so I'm not sure how I can get an RMA.

but it is reversible, just wipe off the graphite and add more melted plastic goup (which DFI applied to later ultra-Ds to try to stop users from SLI-modding)

Hopefully my NB doesn't have the glue stuff, but if it does I can just scrape it off (yes people have done this before







)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SerenityKill3r*


Hmm, Is there much of a GPU bottleneck with your rig?? (Slightly off topic I know







)


Serenity, I believe txtmstrjoe hasn't ran the new card with his rig yet. I myself am waiting for the new benchies


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Serenity, I believe txtmstrjoe hasn't ran the new card with his rig yet. I myself am waiting for the new benchies










I cant wait xD


----------



## Blitz6804

I found this amusing:

"A recent study conducted by Harvard University found that the average American walks about 900 miles a year.

Another study by the American Medical Association found that Americans drink, on average, 22 gallons of alcohol a year.

This means, on average, Americans get about 41 miles to the gallon."

Woo-hoo!


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I found this amusing:

"A recent study conducted by Harvard University found that the average American walks about 900 miles a year.

Another study by the American Medical Association found that Americans drink, on average, 22 gallons of alcohol a year.

This means, on average, Americans get about 41 miles to the gallon."

Woo-hoo!


LMAO...

I wonder how the Japanese do, they're very fuel efficient


----------



## Blitz6804

For the record, my lapping kit arrived today. The 10 Âµ stuff feels like plain paper!


----------



## azt3c

i cant believe it, is was just to FAN !!!!!!!!
thanx guys !


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I found this amusing:

"A recent study conducted by Harvard University found that the average American walks about 900 miles a year.

Another study by the American Medical Association found that Americans drink, on average, 22 gallons of alcohol a year.

This means, on average, Americans get about 41 miles to the gallon."

Woo-hoo!


roflawlmao

Quote:



Originally Posted by *azt3c*


i cant believe it, is was just to FAN !!!!!!!!
thanx guys !


what? was your fan plugged in wrong?









blitz be sure to take TONS of pictures and post a log


----------



## Anqt31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I found this amusing:

"A recent study conducted by Harvard University found that the average American walks about 900 miles a year.

Another study by the American Medical Association found that Americans drink, on average, 22 gallons of alcohol a year.

This means, on average, Americans get about 41 miles to the gallon."

Woo-hoo!


Um, in track this year, I covered over 800 miles in practice and another 50 miles in competition. Does that mean I'm abnormal?







Also I didn't drink anything, so that's infinity miles per gallon! That's what you call fuel efficent.


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


For the record, my lapping kit arrived today. The 10 Âµ stuff feels like plain paper!


You mightn't Believe me but the best way to finish a lap job is to use whitening toothpaste...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *azt3c* 
i cant believe it, is was just to FAN !!!!!!!!
thanx guys !

Aztec, I kind of figured you forgot to plug the HS Fan back in









Good job on figuring it out


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Anqt31* 
Um, in track this year, I covered over 800 miles in practice and another 50 miles in competition. Does that mean I'm abnormal?







Also I didn't drink anything, so that's infinity miles per gallon! That's what you call fuel efficent.

ownage


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Anqt31* 
Um, in track this year, I covered over 800 miles in practice and another 50 miles in competition. Does that mean I'm abnormal?







Also I didn't drink anything, so that's infinity miles per gallon! That's what you call fuel efficent.

Anqt, what is considered a good or "fast" mile time?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Can someone tell my boss that I want to go home and install my new video card already?

By the way, I'm sure my system will be bottlenecking the new HD 4870. I guess it's the PC enthusiast equivalent to having a Lamborghini on a really narrow street: Lots of speed, lots of power, but you can't use it all; but at least it's red, it's pretty, and it's sexy as heck and you know that once the road is wide enough and open enough it'll go like stink!


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Can someone tell my boss that I want to go home and install my new video card already?

By the way, I'm sure my system will be bottlenecking the new HD 4870. I guess it's the PC enthusiast equivalent to having a Lamborghini on a really narrow street: Lots of speed, lots of power, but you can't use it all; but at least it's red, it's pretty, and it's sexy as heck and you know that once the road is wide enough and open enough it'll go like stink!









What do you do??


----------



## Blitz6804

Keeps all of us in line.

In other news, I am on the second grit of sandpaper as of now. My left arm hurts! (>_<)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SerenityKill3r* 
What do you do??

Here at the L.A. Zoo, I'm primarily the assistant to the Director of Human Resources. But with the budget crisis now hitting the City of Los Angeles, I actually do lots of things. Right now, I'm filling in at the Operations Division, where we do purchasing for the Zoo.







It's an interesting job.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Keeps all of us in line.

In other news, I am on the second grit of sandpaper as of now. My left arm hurts! (>_<)

Pfft. Lay-zee!









You've got to work out that noodle-arm of yours, Sub-Zero! How can your arm be hurting if you love to go bowling? THAT would tire an arm out!


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Pfft. Lay-zee!









You've got to work out that noodle-arm of yours, Sub-Zero! How can your arm be hurting if you love to go bowling? THAT would tire an arm out!









I am a rightie...


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Here at the L.A. Zoo, I'm primarily the assistant to the Director of Human Resources. But with the budget crisis now hitting the City of Los Angeles, I actually do lots of things. Right now, I'm filling in at the Operations Division, where we do purchasing for the Zoo.







It's an interesting job.

Cool, I'm going to Berlin in a week, can't wait to visit the Zoo there...its supposed to be amazing...

Do you buy animals for the Zoo?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Wow I cannot believe I missed so much in 2 hours!

@Joe:
Your package has been sent







. And I as well want to see how your new card holds up in a 939 rig!!!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I am a rightie...

Oh, how I wish Fezzik was here right now. He would have the perfect retort for that.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *SerenityKill3r* 
Cool, I'm going to Berlin in a week, can't wait to visit the Zoo there...its supposed to be amazing...

Do you buy animals for the Zoo?









LOL Nah, but I am involved in buying food for them.

Hungry critters we have here...









I've heard the Berlin Zoo is amazing as well! Hope you have a great trip there! And if you take pictures, share them here! Nothing's too off-topic here, as you can see.


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
LOL Nah, but I am involved in buying food for them.

Hungry critters we have here...









I've heard the Berlin Zoo is amazing as well! Hope you have a great trip there! And if you take pictures, share them here! Nothing's too off-topic here, as you can see.









Will do, Pity Knut is all grown up now...I hear his carer who raised him can't go near him any more


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I remember Knut.

Yeah, they sure do grow up FAST. I remember the L.A. Zoo's two tiger cubs when they were born around 2006, which was my first year here.

They're adult-size now...


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Can someone tell my boss that I want to go home and install my new video card already?

By the way, I'm sure my system will be bottlenecking the new HD 4870. I guess it's the PC enthusiast equivalent to having a Lamborghini on a really narrow street: Lots of speed, lots of power, but you can't use it all; but at least it's red, it's pretty, and it's sexy as heck and you know that once the road is wide enough and open enough it'll go like stink!









I bet it won't actually bottleneck, unless you're at a cpu-dependent res...

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Right now, I'm filling in at the Operations Division, where we do purchasing for the Zoo.







It's an interesting job.

I was going to ask if you got to buy animals, but that was already asked


----------



## alexgheseger

ooh, do i see another 4870 owner?

Trust me, you'll feel so badass when you click the graphics settings, and select 8x AA







.


----------



## Blitz6804

That was the coolest thing about upgrading from my 1950 XGE AGP to my 3870 AGP:

Civilization IV; 1920x1200; 16x AA


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
That was the coolest thing about upgrading from my 1950 XGE AGP to my 3870 AGP:

Civilization IV; 1920x1200; 16x AA

Thats it?









Could your 1950 not do that lol?


----------



## Blitz6804

No, the 1950 topped out at 4x. Physically. There was no higher setting.

What was worse, is that I could only do it on small maps or early in the game. Near round the year 1000, I would need to drop to 2x. By 1500, I had to shut it off. Mind you, that was at 1440x900 resolution.

As to lapping, I am on my fifth grit of nine. So boring. (-_-)


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


No, the 1950 topped out at 4x. Physically. There was no higher setting.

What was worse, is that I could only do it on small maps or early in the game. Near round the year 1000, I would need to drop to 2x. By 1500, I had to shut it off. Mind you, that was at 1440x900 resolution.

As to lapping, I am on my fifth grit of nine. So boring. (-_-)


Finish off with whitening toothpaste, trust me...

Have you thought of IHS removal??


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Real men run *naked*, eh, SerenityKill3r?


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Real men run *naked*, eh, SerenityKill3r?










back when I had my 3600+ X2 939 I ran naked...

Scariest moment of my life...removing it...that was back when it was a $200 chip...

Probably won't do it again though, IIRC, I peaked @ ~49 degrees at 2.9


----------



## Blitz6804

I am happy with my IHS, and have no plans to remove it. I was NOT happy however with my SI-128, hence what I am doing.


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I am happy with my IHS, and have no plans to remove it. I was NOT happy however with my SI-128, hence what I am doing.


Are you gonna lap the CPU too??


----------



## Anqt31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Anqt, what is considered a good or "fast" mile time?


Good was considered 4:40. My best was 4:50


----------



## Blitz6804

You get that right Anqt31, or is it backward?

No SerenityKill3r, I have no intention to lap the CPU.


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
You get that right Anqt31, or is it backward?

No SerenityKill3r, I have no intention to lap the CPU.

Ah go on









I love lapping...I'd lap my girlfriend if I could...Oh wait, I already have.


----------



## Anqt31

What?

(That's a reference to mile time.) I was slow, I never made it anywhere.







It wasn't even my event.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Anqt31* 
Good was considered 4:40. My best was 4:50

Anqt, how much warming up did you have to do for the 4:40?


----------



## boonie2

hahaha @ serenity


----------



## Anqt31

can you run those cheap single core chips (ones at newegg) naked? if so, that might be fun for a suicide run. Think I could hit 4.0 with the 4000+ sandy?


----------



## Anqt31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Anqt, how much warming up did you have to do for the 4:40?

Warmup, what warmup? (J/k) I usually did about a mile and a half warmup. Usually I ran the four and medley first. I didn't run the mile too much.


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Anqt31* 
can you run those cheap single core chips (ones at newegg) naked? if so, that might be fun for a suicide run. Think I could hit 4.0 with the 4000+ sandy?

Maybe an energy efficient sempron??


----------



## Anqt31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SerenityKill3r* 
Maybe an energy efficient sempron??

Heavily OC'd processor energy efficent?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Anqt31* 
can you run those cheap single core chips (ones at newegg) naked? if so, that might be fun for a suicide run. Think I could hit 4.0 with the 4000+ sandy?

Yessiree bobski, you can.









(Take the top off of the CPU, I mean. Hitting 4.0GHz with a San Diego with nothing less than outer space-cold cooling? Not likely. LOL)


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Anqt31* 
Heavily OC'd processor energy efficent?









well they're cheap, so it'd be worth trying without worrying about it crapping out


----------



## Blitz6804

I am done lapping!

*Starts writing the log.*


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I am done lapping!

*Starts writing the log.*
















CONGRATULATIONS!!!!







:app laud:

Now...what do your temps look like







??


----------



## Blitz6804

Hm... I am thinking it is 22Âº C.

OH! You mean my CPU temperatures? How should I know. I do not have a motherboard, remember?


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Hm... I am thinking it is 22Âº C.

OH! You mean my CPU temperatures? How should I know. I do not have a motherboard, remember?

Are they gonna be able to give you the same board, or is it discontinued??


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Hm... I am thinking it is 22Âº C.

OH! You mean my CPU temperatures? How should I know. I do not have a motherboard, remember?

If you don't have a motherboard, then how the heck are you on OCN right now mister? C'mon now! Chop chop!!! Get that lapped goodness into SOMETHING!

I also say that because it will in a few hours to a few days time....your lap job will start to look not NEARLY as pretty. I think its called Oxidizing???? Anyway....AT LEAST get that puppy covered up somehow.


----------



## Blitz6804

They are repairing it, not replacing it.

I am also simultaneously purchasing another identical model used.


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
They are repairing it, not replacing it.

I am also simultaneously purchasing another identical model used.

Why??


----------



## Blitz6804

Two reasons:

1) The last time I RMAed the board, I did not have it for two months. Another board will minimize downtime.

2) I have another 939 proc, AGP card, PSU, and sound card, as well as additional RAM. I can make a second PC once I get the RMAed board back.


----------



## pioneerisloud

OFF TOPIC:
Anybody know how long deep fried corn dogs and bean/cheese burritos are good for? I stole them from work on Sunday or Monday...and I brought them home and put them right into the fridge. Would they still be good to eat (or safe, lol)?

I'd cook something else, but I don't know how to work that new fangled technology such as a "stove" or "oven". I can use the shiny box you put stuff into for a minute though. But I'm broke and has no food to use that box with







.

So anybody got any clues for a hungry 939'er??? I want some of my burritos, but I'm afraid they may be no good







. And I don't know how to tell.


----------



## Blitz6804

How were they stored? In tupperware, in a zip-top back with the air sucked out, on a plate uncovered? This all makes a difference.

To tell, smell them, if they smell okay, cook them, then cut them open, and smell again.


----------



## boonie2

Find a "test victim" if they get the runs throw them away







..........not you "Froggy"


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


How were they stored? In tupperware, in a zip-top back with the air sucked out, on a plate uncovered? This all makes a difference.

To tell, smell them, if they smell okay, cook them, then cut them open, and smell again.


They're just in the "deli" bags that they come in at work. And then all of those are put into a plastic grocery bag. So they might as well be "plate uncovered" as you put it.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


If you don't have a motherboard, then how the heck are you on OCN right now mister? C'mon now! Chop chop!!! Get that lapped goodness into SOMETHING!

I also say that because it will in a few hours to a few days time....your lap job will start to look not NEARLY as pretty. I think its called Oxidizing???? Anyway....AT LEAST get that puppy covered up somehow.


oxidizing is the reaction of oxygen to any substance, i.e. rusting with some metals, and fruit turning brown








I don't know if this will work, but I believe lemon juice sort of seals against oxygen. At least it works on avocados and apples


----------



## boonie2

seriously tho you can usually tell by the smell I would think


----------



## Blitz6804

Uhm...

Have ramen cups in the pantry? If not, how about condensed soup? Equal portions of Campbell's and milk, place in pot, stir until hot.

As to oxidation: copper turns green. For proof, look at New York Harbor.


----------



## nategr8ns

mmmm, mushroom ramen








vegetarian and can't eat any other flavor, other than the crap chinese one







. If I wanted chinese I would eat chinese food!


----------



## Blitz6804

Check the label... there may still be beef or chicken byproducts in the stock.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Alrighty, I guess I'll chance the corn dogs and burritos. Wish me luck guys!

EDIT: If I don't post for the next 24 hours, I'm dead from food poisoning, and I'll come back to haunt you guys for daring me to them!


----------



## boonie2

Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm crush up 3-4 bags of Ramen noodles {4-$1.00}, add some veggies , a boulon {spelling} cube and your good to go for a whole dinner for both of you ..


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, my motherboard broke again and needed to be RMAed. That said, I was bored and decided to lap my SI-128. Without further eloquence, I present, my tale. (Cross-posted in my thread, it is broken into 6 parts.)

1) Tape down some cling wrap to the counter to facilitate cleanup.
2) Gather all equipment needed.








3) Clean HSF with isopropanol and Kim wipes.
















4) Start lapping with about a half teaspoon of water on 400-grit sandpaper. You will notice that only material on the outside is coming off, leaving the middle untouched.








I think it safe to say the sandpaper is dead.








Pity that the processor needs more work.








5) Change to 600-grit and continue.
6) Get pissed off about the air conditioner constantly blowing around the drop cover; go crazy taping it down. You will note it is right over me; that is me looking up from where I was standing.
















7) The water coming off the paper was clean instead of blue and sludgy; change to 800-grit. Admire work so far.








8) The aluminum is finally gone! It is time to swap to 1000-grit.








9) It is starting to pick up a mirror finish. Time to swap to the 40-micron paper.








Eww, look how bad the copper is on that bright, sunny yellow!








Get frisky, make a video!
10) Looking good, let me swap to 25-micron.








11) Swap to 20-micron paperâ€¦ IT IS BLUE! (^_^)








12) Time to try out the 15-micron paper.
Hey look, I can finally see my face! That 15 micron peach is great!
















13) One more sheet to go! *Tapes down the 10 micron*
In the distance, you can see the shrapnel so far. (-_-
















14) Finish. Oooh, pretty!
























15) By popular request, I am now going to smear it up with some whitening toothpaste








Yummie eh?








16) Clean off the toothpaste with hot water, and then shine it up with some isopropanol.
And for your viewing pleasure, the finished product!
























No clue what that last one is? Check this out.








What bothers me is the aftermath; so much waste. (>_<)









Total project time from start to finish? Approximately 3 hours.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Looks good blitz! Now like I said, let's see what the temps are like







.


----------



## nategr8ns

woohoo! Looks much better than mine, but I didn't have a flat surface to use really... first time I just used the glass cover on the coffee table, but the second time I used a small "sample" tile of granite which I figured was pretty darn flat, but I guess it really wasn't 100% :\\
I'll have to go looking for scrap pieces of glass...

Did you notice anything different between the after-10 micron product and after-toothpaste product?


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes I did. The latter was shinier. There was no difference in the appearance of scratches.

As to WHY I had to lap, I now have proof. You will see from my CPU that the IHS was being damaged by the concavity. This would explain why my temps went UP after 'upgrading' from a Zalman CNPS9500 to the SI-128: the only CPU/HSF heat transfer was through the IHS!

(Pay attention to the edges.








Those scratches were not there when I was installing the SI-128.)


----------



## boonie2

My 128 made the same marks too







instead of lapping it I went back to my lapped Freezer Pro







what kind of temps are you getting ?


----------



## Blitz6804

As I jokingly said earlier: 22Âº C; same as ambient.

I cannot test how well the lap job went until my motherboard returns from RMA, or my "new" used one arrives.


----------



## boonie2

I picked up on that after i wrote it lol


----------



## Anqt31

Okay... here's the processor. Suicide run when it gets here!

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819103037

I think I'll skip going to the movies for a couple weeks!


----------



## Anqt31

Will this hurt my mobo?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Wow, I sleep for 8 hours and I see flipp'in 8 pages added....dang

@Think, Thanks for the link. I'll shoot over Colts tonight. He was asking how we made our club link so cool!









@Joe, I have AIM but thats it. I have to see what I work next week. I'd rather talk about the contest there. I'm not when my internet will go Poof! here


----------



## Blitz6804

I have AIM as well G.O. My SN is my OCN SN. Give me a buzz, worse case, we can play relay.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Well, guys, we can always use OCN chat for an officers' only meeting. I believe there's an option to get a private room there, if I'm not mistaken.


----------



## Blitz6804

Actually, I might have a private chatroom myself. Standby.


----------



## ErBall

I think its crazy this thread is still going strong.

Way to go guys.

I will always have fond memories of my 3700+ and opty 165.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ErBall* 
I think its crazy this thread is still going strong.

Way to go guys.

I will always have fond memories of my 3700+ and opty 165.

Thank you very much, kind sir.







The membership makes the Club what it is.









Speaking of which, you are always welcome to be part of our little clan. Though you may no longer run your S939 rig(s), you can still be a S939 Nostalgic Member.







We'd be glad to have you, of course!


----------



## Anqt31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ErBall* 
I think its crazy this thread is still going strong.

Way to go guys.

I will always have fond memories of my 3700+ and opty 165.

Once a member, always a member. If not in fact, in heart!


----------



## vwgti

Well joe, you should put me under the nostalgic area, as my old opty system is going to a friend. Hes in dier need of a upgrade from his 1.8 sempron on 754. Its a hp also, so I cant wait to get him hooked up with my old gear.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vwgti* 
Well joe, you should put me under the nostalgic area, as my old opty system is going to a friend. Hes in dier need of a upgrade from his 1.8 sempron on 754. Its a hp also, so I cant wait to get him hooked up with my old gear.

As you wish, good sir.









Nice party you guys have going on next door.


----------



## vwgti

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
As you wish, good sir.









Nice party you guys have going on next door.









Thanks for the support joe, the word is out and were growing slowly


----------



## Blitz6804

All club officers, please PM me at your convenience for your credentials to the official officer chat room.


----------



## Blitz6804

By chance, does anyone have a spare 15" of C-channel they do not wish to have?


----------



## SerenityKill3r

WooHoo Whitening Toothpaste!!!

Did it work for ya??


----------



## Blitz6804

The difference is negligible. It is a little shinier, but it does nothing for the scratches left behind from the 10-micron sandpaper. It might be because my whitening toothpaste has stripes of scope in it and not just straight, plain toothpaste. But I am dubious.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Hey guys, I need your help for about two hours of your time. I am trying to get average points per day or ppd for [email protected] on K8 CPU's. Here is the link to my thread.

You will need to down load two programs if your not familiar with [email protected]
*
Graphical [email protected] 5.03 Client* Windows 2000/XP/Vista Graphical client 5.03
*FahMon* FahMon 2.3.2b

As many of you guys as possible. I already have the info for the Opteron 165 at stock and overclocked.

In short I'd like to get *stock ppd's* and *overclocked ppd's*

Thanks guys!


----------



## nategr8ns

I would, but I stopped CPU folding do give my GPU client more to work with








sometimes I'll fold on one core though, and I think I get about 155 PPD @ 2.7ghz, but don't use this in your thread


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
I would, but I stopped CPU folding do give my GPU client more to work with








sometimes I'll fold on one core though, and I think I get about 155 PPD @ 2.7ghz, but don't use this in your thread









I have been using both. But I too am thinking of dropping the CPU folding to up the GPU folding. But if you can test stock and OC'ed I would greatly appreciate it!


----------



## Blitz6804

Two things:
1) What is FahMon?
2) I am having problems getting the core; it keeps erroring on download.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Two things:
1) What is FahMon?
2) I am having problems getting the core; it keeps erroring on download.

FahMon just shows the actual ppd's when the client is working.

Stanford's server may be busy. I'll take a look.

*EDIT:* The download worked fine for me. Not sure what would cause an error downloading.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Hey guys, I need your help for about two hours of your time. I am trying to get average points per day or ppd for [email protected] on K8 CPU's. Here is the link to my thread.

You will need to down load two programs if your not familiar with [email protected]
*
Graphical [email protected] 5.03 Client* Windows 2000/XP/Vista Graphical client 5.03
*FahMon* FahMon 2.3.2b

As many of you guys as possible. I already have the info for the Opteron 165 at stock and overclocked.

In short I'd like to get *stock ppd's* and *overclocked ppd's*

Thanks guys!

Guardian, this would have been nice when I had that 4 dual core opteron 2880 4U system. That server is now gone









Does anyone know if Pioneer made it alive after the insertion of the bi-products?


----------



## Blitz6804

Stanford hates Intel apparently. *Chuckles*


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Guardian, this would have been nice when I had that 4 dual core opteron 2880 4U system. That server is now gone









Does anyone know if Pioneer made it alive after the insertion of the bi-products?

Thats ok, the [email protected] site some ppd info me as well,so hopefully I can find there what I can't find here.

Not sure about Pioneer, haven't seen him on the last two days.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Stanford hates Intel apparently. *Chuckles*

Whys that?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Guardian, this would have been nice when I had that 4 dual core opteron 2880 4U system. That server is now gone









Socket F, _monsieur les penseur_? Sounds like a tasty bit of kit!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
*Does anyone know if Pioneer made it alive after the insertion of the bi-products?*

Holy APBs, Batman! pioneer has gone missing!


----------



## Blitz6804

I dunno. I am folding on the PS3 no problem. Every time it tries to download on the laptop, it errors, and starts over.


----------



## GuardianOdin

no problem Blitz, if it won't load no worries. I'm sure I'll be able to find ppd's for the X2 4400 somewhere. The goal of my thread is to give people an idea of their systems can do. I'm not aiming for "fact" because that would mean I'd have to invest in some hardware...and that costs money's


----------



## txtmstrjoe

G.O., too bad I'm at work. I've long been curious about crunching, but have never done it. Just to satisfy personal curiosity and to contribute to your investigation, I wish I was at home right now so I could set up my rig for [email protected], even if it's just for short-term use.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


G.O., too bad I'm at work. I've long been curious about crunching, but have never done it. Just to satisfy personal curiosity and to contribute to your investigation, I wish I was at home right now so I could set up my rig for [email protected], even if it's just for short-term use.


Not to worry, I don't need this info "now". It will be a long process building the average ppd's for both GPU's and CPU's. Even if you get to it 2 weeks from it will still be relevant to my quest.


----------



## Blitz6804

You missed where I said "Intel."

I am on my laptop, and am just trying to install it so I have it now. I cannot fold on my desktop without a motherboard in it.

Maybe I should break out the Linux CF-Box and the Linux DL-Box to see what they can do.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Not sure about Pioneer, haven't seen him on the last two days.


Guardian, wasn't he just on last night eating week old corn dogs and burritos?


----------



## nategr8ns

uh oh...
who was it that dared him to eat them again?


----------



## Blitz6804

Given Joe's usual environment, I say he should buy a TEC Air cooler; namely, the

  Ultra ChillTEC . I do not think it will fit in my case, so I am not gonna try it. If I had a bigger case I would.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Would you buy one for me, Sub-Zero, Esquire?









I'd LOVE to test drive new kit like that!


----------



## nategr8ns

dang thats expensive for an air cooler...
anybody here ever used one?


----------



## Blitz6804

I FOUND THE SOLUTION:

Run [email protected] with administrator privileges; installs right away. Duh!


----------



## nategr8ns

lol...


----------



## Blitz6804

I have reached a profound conclusion: My PS3 is stronger than my laptop!

The PS3 is doing 0.0385s / frame, a total WU consisting of 750,000 frames. Thus, an estimated time for the whole WU is about 8 hours.

The laptop is doing 412s / frame, a total WU consisting of 500 frames. Thus, an estimated time for the whole WU is about 57 hours.

Lame...


----------



## nategr8ns

you have to look at PPDs







, some WUs take more per frame anyway, and therefore give you more points per WU

plus I believe the PS3 is GPU folding


----------



## Blitz6804

What is weird is that the laptop is only folding with one core even though affinity is set to both.

Strangeness.

Someone know how to change that?

EDIT: This makes sense. The PS3 has "The Core," which consists of 8 processors. At any given time, only 7 processors can work while running the PS3 XBS. (6 processors using Yellowdog Linux). The PS3 will finish the work unit in 8 hours. The Laptop has 2 processors, but is only using one of them. So, since it is using 1/7th the processing capacity (assuming all processors are the same speed) you would expect it to take 7 times longer than the PS3. We see this: 8*7=56 ~ 57. The actual times 28,875s for the PS3, 206,000s for the laptop. 206,000/28,875 = 7.1341991341991341991341991341991 ~ 7. Keep in mind, the PS3 is only folding, the laptop is doing other things as well, which accounts for the 2% discrepancy.


----------



## nategr8ns

run two instances, thats what I used to do before GPU2


----------



## Blitz6804

It says only one instance may be run at a time. The graphics are also not a nice: on the laptop, it is a plain black screen with a static molecule on it. Every few seconds, it moves slightly. On the desktop, you see a globe at night with lights lit in various cities scrolling by while you see a wiggling molecule in the corner of the screen. So much eye candy... *drools.*


----------



## GuardianOdin

Sorry guys, the girlfriend had me for a few hours there and now I have to head out for awhile. I will be back tomorrow for more conversation!


----------



## Blitz6804

A screenshot from the laptop (50% scale):










A camera shot from the PS3 (25% scale):










How do I hook up GPU folding? I can put this HD2600 to work. Failing that, how do I make it use both CPU cores? I cannot run it twice; it says there is already one in use.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Try this Linky


----------



## txtmstrjoe

G.O., have fun with the GF.


----------



## Blitz6804

Ah, it is only a beta. I will wait until they have a release version.


----------



## Jman_345

Add My Manchester









http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=387709


----------



## Blitz6804

Welcome to the club Jman_345!

Joe will add you to the roster as soon as he gets in. *Gets ready to pounce him.*

In other news, I am starting to cook chili; expect me to be out of the loop for a while.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


G.O., have fun with the GF.










I most certainly will. We are getting away for the night at the motel. Not my ideal place, but it's quite and we won't be bothered.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jman_345*


Add My Manchester









http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=387709


Welcome Jman!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Welcome to the club Jman_345!

Joe will add you to the roster as soon as he gets in. *Gets ready to pounce him.*

In other news, I am starting to cook chili; expect me to be out of the loop for a while.


Mmmm...Chili I love chili in October, a bit to warm for it right now in my opinion, but still good.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

J_Man, I have added your second S939 CPU (X2 3800+ Manchester) to your roster entry.









Mmmmm... chili...

Sub-Zero, you gonna be slinging some of that good stuff this way? It's almost time for my lunch break!


----------



## boonie2

WELCOME JMAN


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jman_345* 
Add My Manchester









http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=387709

Jman, welcome to the club









EDIT: Oops Jman is already in the club...oh well welcome back!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Am I read the roster correctly? 116 members?!?!?!?!!!!!!!


----------



## Blitz6804

Thanks for making me look like an idiot Joe. You could not just say "yeah, welcome to the club," you had to point out he was already a member! No chili for you!

And GuardianOdin, I usually would agree with you. However, it is 75Âº F and raining outside, inside is a comfy 71Âº F. Sounds like chili is go!

And I am working on a chili build log. No, not as many pictures as my last one. Pioneer, hunny, when I start talking, you are going to pay attention, because you are cooking this for your lovely lady your next day off.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Heheheh...hahahaha...hehehe...Hunny


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Holy moly, 116 members strong, huh? G.O., does that include EVERYBODY (including our Nostalgics)?

As my all-time hero, Darth Vader, said to that little shrimp weenie son of his as a taunt, "Impressive."









And Sub-Zero, it's not MY fault I checked the roster as I added J_Man's newest chip to our growing legion. I do admit, though, chuckling to myself and saying, "hmm... so this is what my boss feels like when I miss a small detail."


----------



## GuardianOdin

including Nostalgics! That's a lot..woot!


----------



## Anqt31

Those intel guy's should take a lesson from us. If a processor is good, people will use it even when it's outdated. I mean, how many Pentium 4 Clubs do you see? Facts don't lie!


----------



## Blitz6804

Blitz's Chili

*Software*

3 pounds lean ground beef
2 Green Bell Peppers*
2 Red Bell Peppers*
2 Poblano Chilies**
2 Anaheim Chilies**
2 JalapeÃ±o Chilies**
2 Vidalia Onions
3/4 Teaspoon of table salt***
2 14.5 ounce cans of petite diced tomatoes****
2 14.5 ounce cans of kidney beans
1 tablespoon paprika
1 tablespoon oregano
1 tablespoon garlic powder (NOT GARLIC SALT!)
3 tablespoons cumin
1 pound shredded extra sharp cheddar cheese
1-2 tablespoons vegetable oil
Tortilla chips
Cooked rice (brown is better than white)

*Hardware*
)
Largest chef's knife you feel comfortable using (GO SLOW: remember, while blood is a flavorite in Coq au Vin, it is not here)
Paring knife (any cutting directions not calling for this knife uses the other)
Cutting board
Large pot with lid
Colander
Cooking spoon
One pair sterile vinyl gloves or two pairs of sterile latex gloves (recommended)
Bowls

*Procedure*

0) Open a window or turn on the kitchen vent near where you will be cutting, you will need it; then read the entire instructions before continuing to step 1
1) Cut off the plant and root ends of the onions
2) Peel off the outer layer of the onions
3) Cut the onions into a 1/2" dice
4) Place onions in a big, glass or ceramic, bowl
5) Cut the tops off the bell peppers with the paring knife removing as many seeds as possible
6) Clean the bell peppers inside and out
7) With a paring knife, cut along side of each rib to split the peppers into sections
8) With a paring knife, carefully cut out each rib leaving as much of the flesh intact as possible
9) Cut the bells into a 1/2" dice
10) Place the bells into the bowl with the onions
11) Salt the vegetables and stir well
12) If you wear contacts, remove them now and use glasses instead
12a) Don the gloves; if latex, make sure you have on two gloves on each hand
12b) Do not take the gloves off until told to do so
12c) You can do this without gloves, but I do not recommend it; especially if you have contacts
13) Clean the outside of the Poblano and Anaheim chilies
14) With a paring knife, cut the top off the Poblano peppers and remove as many seeds as possible
15) Wash the inside of the pepper out with warm water
16) With a paring knife, cut along side of each rib to split the chilies into sections
17) Hold your breath, and then with your thumb or a spoon, scrape off the rib trying to keep the flesh intact; release your breath
18) With a paring knife, cut the chilies into 1/4" strips
19) Finish chopping the chilies into a 1/4" dice
20) Place the chilies into the bowl with the others; do not stir
21) Clean the outside of the jalapeÃ±os
22) With a paring knife, cut the top off of the jalapeÃ±o
23) Hold your breath, and then go around the inside of the jalapeÃ±o with the back of your paring knife to remove the seeds; release your breath
24) With a paring knife, cut along the side of each rib to split the jalapeÃ±os into sections
25) Hold your breath, and then with your thumb or a spoon, scrape off the rib trying to keep the flesh intact; release your breath
26) With your paring knife, mince the jalapeÃ±os at least 1/8" pieces; smaller is better*****
27) Transfer the jalapeÃ±os into the bowl with the others; do not stir








28) Wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water (yes, leave the gloves on)
29) Wash the cutting board and both knives with soap and water
30) Wash down the counter with 409, Fantastik, or similar
31) Carefully remove the gloves
32) Wash your hands with soap and water
32a) I recommend you leave glasses on and not contacts
32b) Wait at least 12 hours (24 hours) is better before replacing your contacts
32c) I also recommend rinsing your hands with isopropanol and then washing them with soap and water again just to be sure
32d) I will not be held accountable if you hurt yourself
33) Place the oil in the pot such that it just covers the bottom, and place on medium/medium-high heat (on a scale of 13 for example, I set it to 8)
34) When the oil starts to ripple (about 2-5 minutes), transfer the vegetables into the pot
35) Stir periodically until the onions are starting to turn translucent and the vegetables are no longer crisp








36) Transfer the vegetables back into the bowl; be sure not to leave any in the pot
37) Place the beef in the pot
38) Stir periodically until the beef is well browned
39) While it is browning, drain the kidney beans into the colander; rinse several times with warm water and agitation
40) Drain the beef; remember, if it goes into your sink, run hot water
41) Return the vegetables to the pot
42) Add the canned tomatoes to the pot
43) Add the oregano, paprika, garlic powder, and cumin to the pot
44) Add the washed beans to the pot
45) Stir well
46) Cover pot
47) Reduce heat to medium/medium-low (on a scale of 13 for example, I set it to 5)
48) Stir occasionally for the next 20-60 minutes; the longer you wait, the better melded the flavors








49) Serve

*Service*

1) Add the cooked rice to a bowl
2) Give a sprinkle of cheese
3) Add the chili on top of the cheese
4) Give another sprinkle of cheese
5) Serve with tortilla chips; I like to use them in place of a spoon








6) If desired, add some chili powder, thin jalapeÃ±o rings, and/or a dollop of sour cream; it is your chili, eat it how you want to!
7) Accompany with a frozen daiquiri, a margarita, or a coke-cola classic; sweet drinks are better, but if you must, you could use a lighter beer like Corona

*Variations*

If you want to be more traditional, replace the ground beef with beef cubes; cheap beef such as cubed chuck steak works well. Here is the modified recipe:
1) Follow steps 1-36
2) Toss the beef cubes lightly into all purpose flour
3) Fry a small batch in a thin coating of oil until each side is browned
4) Remove from the pot and place in the bowl with the vegetables
5) Repeat until all the beef is browned; add more oil as/if necessary
6) When all the beef is cooked, remove all fat from the bottom of the pan; rinse out if necessary
7) Return the contents of the bowl to the pot
8) Add the canned tomatoes to the pot
9) Add the oregano, paprika, garlic powder, and cumin to the pot
10) Stir well
11) Cover pot
12) Reduce heat to medium/medium-low (on a scale of 13 for example, I set it to 5)
13) Stir occasionally for the next 2-3 hours; the longer you wait, the better melded the flavors and the more tender the beef
14) About 15 minutes before you are done with step 13, drain the kidney beans into the colander; rinse several times with warm water and agitation
15) Stir in the washed beans into the pot and return cover
16) Periodically stir for another 20-30 minutes
17) Serve

If you want vegan chili, here is the modified recipe:
0) Increase the beans from 2 cans to 3 (be sure they are vegan beans; not all are), increase the bell peppers from 2 to 3, and also get 2-3 large beefsteak tomatoes
1) Follow the steps 1-35
2) Drain the kidney beans into the colander; rinse several times with warm water and agitation
3) Add the vegetables, kidney beans, oregano, paprika, garlic powder, and cumin to the pot
4) Cover pot
5) Reduce heat to medium/medium-low (on a scale of 13 for example, I set it to 5)
6) Stir occasionally for the next 15-55 minutes; the longer you wait, the better melded the flavors
7) Clean the beefsteak tomatoes
8) If desired, peel them
9) Chop the tomatoes into a 1/2" dice
10) Stir in the tomatoes and return lid
11) Simmer another 5 minutes
12) Serve

*Footnotes*

* If you would rather, use one green, one yellow, one orange, and one red; it gives a nicer color; yes, I know they are chilies
** If you are not confident in cutting the oddly shaped Anaheim or Poblano chilies, or your food store does not carry them, get instead 4 JalapeÃ±os, and 3 of each of the bells
*** If you have kosher salt, you would want 1/2 Tablespoon of it
**** You can also used crushed, but I prefer the texture of the diced
***** If you do not like things too hot, instead drop the jalapeÃ±os in sans-mincing; remove from pot before serving


----------



## Anqt31

No more Blitz, that looks good, sounds good; Now you messed up my whole day... I want chili now;







My lunchmeat sandlwhich for dinner now does not look good!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

That looks good enough to eat, Blitz. Omilord, that looks delicious!

I dub thee the Silicon Chef!


----------



## Blitz6804

Blitz6804: ruining people's appetites, one recipe at a time.

No reason why you cant make it yourself Anqt31. I encourage everyone to make it and share their own pictures. Perhaps I will post one new recipe a week and we will all be fine diners!

*Twiddles thumbs waiting for Pioneer to get home and start cooking.*


----------



## txtmstrjoe

One thing's for sure: We will *NOT* have a cooking contest here in Club S939. If we do, yours truly, who is already fat, will get even fatter!

Then none of my masks will fit...


----------



## Blitz6804

Not to mention that such a contest would not be fair. By the time food gets to the judges, it may be shot depending where it was sent from.

Unless we do a recipe competition. Everyone send me a recipe, I cook them all and judge. Where is Iandroo888? He would want in on this.


----------



## SerenityKill3r

WoooHooo I just got 344 euro and 62 cent off my dad


----------



## Anqt31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Blitz6804: ruining people's appetites, one recipe at a time.

No reason why you cant make it yourself Anqt31. I encourage everyone to make it and share their own pictures. Perhaps I will post one new recipe a week and we will all be fine diners!

*Twiddles thumbs waiting for Pioneer to get home and start cooking.*


I'm just kidding blitz. That does look good though. My mom makes it somewhat like that, except I have to add any extra peppers myself. She only puts in green peppers. Also, it's to hot to make chili. Cooking raises the ambient temp by about 5C. Not acceptable! Actually, I'm having a spaghetti dinner tonight. (I mean really spaghetti, like the italian kind!)


----------



## Blitz6804

There is a different kind!? I think you will need to explain.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

There's a restaurant in Burbank (not too far from me, actually) which serves spaghetti with chili.







I've never tried it, though. A friend of mine had it a long time ago, and he loved it.

EDIT: Here's a whole page of recipes, in fact.


----------



## Anqt31

Okay, there's noodles and prego sauce spaghetti (1 out of 10), then there's homeamde (mom's 5 out of 10) , then there is homemade italian (10 out of 10). My aunt's italian, she starts from scratch. I mean she makes the sauce from scratch: tomato sauce, crushed tomatoes, italian sausage, green peppers, etc. Long story short, when she gets done, sprinkle grated cheese on top.... it's really good. Also, she's just visiting from Colorado!


----------



## Blitz6804

I have done that before: think "bolognese with a kick."

Joe, please add the following Nostalgic:

*SerenityKill3r* (07/10/2008): Athlon64 X2 3800+ Manchester @ 3000 MHz


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Woot!

Added club to my sig


----------



## txtmstrjoe

SerenityKill3r is our newest Nostalgic Member!


----------



## thlnk3r

Welcome SerenityKill3r to the club


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Welcome Me, Welcome Me


----------



## nategr8ns

ok guys, urgent help needed (I'm gonig to go to bed after this post to give you time to answer me







)

So I hooked up my new DFI board, and it hasn't fired up








Processor went in, memory went in. Put the board in the case, screwed it into all standoffs, it fit in








plugged in IDE cables, plugged in 24pin+4pin power, plugged in molex power (with 2 fans daisy-chained before it), plugged in video card.
plugged in all molex cables to hardware/fans
plugged in I/O panel cables and video cables to monitors
pushed the power butten (yes i plugged in front panel stuff) and no power!
so I plug in the SLI power (floppy cable) and still, no power
I tried both with the onboard button and the case button

is there an LED on the board that will light up if the board is receiving power?
is there anything important that I may have come wrong on the board? like jumpers? (I set all jumpers to let all items wake the computer, RAM jumper is set to default, and GFX jumpers are all set to "single")


----------



## Blitz6804

Have you turned the power supply on? Some power supplies have a switch.

If so, the next step is to unscrew it from the case and see if it will turn on sitting on the mobo box. It is possible you picked up a short on one of the standoffs.


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


ok guys, urgent help needed (I'm gonig to go to bed after this post to give you time to answer me







)

So I hooked up my new DFI board, and it hasn't fired up








Processor went in, memory went in. Put the board in the case, screwed it into all standoffs, it fit in








plugged in IDE cables, plugged in 24pin+4pin power, plugged in molex power (with 2 fans daisy-chained before it), plugged in video card.
plugged in all molex cables to hardware/fans
plugged in I/O panel cables and video cables to monitors
pushed the power butten (yes i plugged in front panel stuff) and no power!
so I plug in the SLI power (floppy cable) and still, no power
I tried both with the onboard button and the case button

is there an LED on the board that will light up if the board is receiving power?
is there anything important that I may have come wrong on the board? like jumpers? (I set all jumpers to let all items wake the computer, RAM jumper is set to default, and GFX jumpers are all set to "single")


Is the board new, or used??


----------



## nategr8ns

its used, unfortunately








blitz, in the morning I'll take it out of the case.
and since I keep forgetting if "On" is "open"(the O symbol on the switch) or "On" is "Closed" (The l symbol), I tried it in both positions and nothing.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

"ON" is indicated by "l"; "OFF" is indicated by "O."

On the PCB, towards the bottom-rear (near the lowest PCI slot) is a bank of LEDs. There should be four. When you power-on the board, all four LEDs should light up, and each will go off in sequence as the POST process progresses. Each LED indicates a part of the POST procedure, so if it hangs on POST you'll know what part of the process is causing the hang-up.

Keep us posted, nate! And good luck with that board.


----------



## nategr8ns

thanks joe. I actually just got it to turn on (in the case) but no video signal.
I noticed a little orange LED (LED5?). I assume that signifies power.
I'll check the diagnostic LEDs and tell you guys what I find out.


----------



## nategr8ns

the only one that turns off is the far right one.
I also found another orange LED under the last PCI slot that is on.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

nate, how many RAM DIMMs do you have installed right now?


----------



## Blitz6804

I would assume two. Check which slots you have them in Nate; make sure they are in the preferred positions as per DFI's instructions.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

nate, these DFIs have a peculiar procedure when it comes to first firing them up. The board will not pass POST if you do not first put just one DIMM in the second orange DIMM slot.

First clear CMOS (using just the jumper is fine). Then try firing the board up with just this one DIMM in this slot, and it should fire up. Afterwards, the board can accept two DIMMs.

(I still haven't figured out why DFI would specify such a strange initialization procedure for their LANParty boards, but there you go.)

Let us know what happens, nate!


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


(I still haven't figured out why DFI would specify such a strange initialization procedure for their LANParty boards, but there you go.)


To try to prevent used sales. Most motherboard sales would be just the board; no wires or documentation. Without the manual to tell them how to boot, most purchasers will think they were scammed and return the board.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


To try to prevent used sales. Most motherboard sales would be just the board; no wires or documentation. Without the manual to tell them how to boot, most purchasers will think they were scammed and return the board.


My lord...

I thought I was cynical.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


nate, these DFIs have a peculiar procedure when it comes to first firing them up. The board will not pass POST if you do not first put just one DIMM in the second orange DIMM slot.

First clear CMOS (using just the jumper is fine). Then try firing the board up with just this one DIMM in this slot, and it should fire up. Afterwards, the board can accept two DIMMs.

(I still haven't figured out why DFI would specify such a strange initialization procedure for their LANParty boards, but there you go.)

Let us know what happens, nate!










Absolutely right there







took me awhile to figure that out too


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


My lord...

I thought I was cynical.



















You haven't seen anything yet meboy.

And the [email protected] stats have updated. All I have to say:

W00t! I has a unit! (^_^)


----------



## txtmstrjoe




----------



## The Bartender Paradox

Sweet, just picked up a naked 3700 Sandy and took it quickly up to 2.9Ghz @1.6V. It did load to 50Â°C, but I figure once I get WC set up Ill easily be able to push it higher. Looks like I'll be having fun with this chip.


----------



## Blitz6804

I am surrounded by a club of perverts! Everything I see is "naked" this and "topless" that. Bah.

Speaking of perverts, where is Pioneer?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I am surrounded by a club of perverts! Everything I see is "naked" this and "topless" that. Bah.

*Speaking of perverts, where is Pioneer?*


No worries! I'm here! I need to get me a naked Sandy now...that sounds like a good time







.

And the corn dogs and burritos incident....aw that was BAAAADD!!! We went to the movies to see "You Don't Mess with the Zohan" featuring Adam Sandler. Well about an hour into it, my stomach was hurting so bad we were FORCED to come home by yours truly







. I came home, made poopy, then fell right asleep. Then I had to work all day today, and I just now got home to about 20 something pages of missed posts that I had to make up in here!

*To all officers:*
I will be at work through Tuesday. That means Wednesday is my next day off. So if we are to have our meeting on any of those days, it'd HAVE to be after 9pm PST for me. Figured I'd let y'all know.

PS:
If you catch some funny words in my post....I'm TRYING to keep it somewhat PG-13 rated







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Speaking of "funny words," pio, have you seen my sig lately?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Speaking of "funny words," pio, have you seen my sig lately?


Which part?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

"Sub-Zero says"...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


"Sub-Zero says"...


OMG, ROFL







!!!!

I has a unit too! (Just checked). WOOT!


----------



## Blitz6804

Uhm... I was going to say something, but changed my mind; might be against the ToS.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Uhm... I was going to say something, but changed my mind; might be against the ToS.


SAY IT!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Pfft. He won't even tell me in IM...


----------



## Blitz6804

I really should be going to bed. The sun will be up in less than three hours.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


And the corn dogs and burritos incident....aw that was BAAAADD!!! We went to the movies to see "You Don't Mess with the Zohan" featuring Adam Sandler. Well about an hour into it, my stomach was hurting so bad we were FORCED to come home by yours truly







. I came home, made poopy, then fell right asleep.


Pio, that is classic man. So what did we learn from this? Don't eat old food no matter if it's been in your frig for a week. Cold temps only slow down the bacteria build up not prevent it


----------



## boonie2

NOTHING worse than squirty poopy


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


nate, how many RAM DIMMs do you have installed right now?


2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I would assume two. Check which slots you have them in Nate; make sure they are in the preferred positions as per DFI's instructions.


I put them in the two yellow slots

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


nate, these DFIs have a peculiar procedure when it comes to first firing them up. The board will not pass POST if you do not first put just one DIMM in the second orange DIMM slot.

First clear CMOS (using just the jumper is fine). Then try firing the board up with just this one DIMM in this slot, and it should fire up. Afterwards, the board can accept two DIMMs.

(I still haven't figured out why DFI would specify such a strange initialization procedure for their LANParty boards, but there you go.)

Let us know what happens, nate!










My "second orange", do you mean the one closest to the processor? I can't fit ram in that slot due to my cooler hanging over it... darn (I'll try to see if the cooler works in other orientations.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Speaking of "funny words," pio, have you seen my sig lately?


ROFLMAO


----------



## boonie2

Itll fit in Nate , you have to angle it sideways to get under the freezer pro , its a pain I know , had the same issue before I went to this expert board .. but the ram definately has to run in the orange slotS FIRST


----------



## nategr8ns

both orange slots at once? Or which one? I tried it in both orange slots and it still got stuck at 3 diag lights.
I left it running with one stick in the bottom slot, and I'm about to go back and check it, but still no video signal


----------



## boonie2

try booting with just 1 stick in the orange slot , then after it recognizes it , reboot and itll be fine .. try booting with a 400 stick if you have one , then try the g-skills after you reboot


----------



## nategr8ns

which orange slot? the one closest to the CPU or closest to the edge of the motherboard?
I'll try the one close to the edge, as I have been trying the slot closest to the CPU all this morning.
I'll also put my 2x512mb of Corsairs in and try that (one stick at a time of course)


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pio, that is classic man. So what did we learn from this? Don't eat old food no matter if it's been in your frig for a week. Cold temps only slow down the bacteria build up not prevent it










Or, listen to a cook who told you not to eat it.

They were only 3 days old, and I cannot help but think that if they were properly stored they would have made it. I would recommend, in future, that you wrap them tightly in wax or parchment paper followed by a tight wrapping in aluminum foil. Leaving fatty foods in the fridge in just a paper bag is a recipe for disaster; as you have already cooked up and tasted.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


which orange slot? the one closest to the CPU or closest to the edge of the motherboard?
I'll try the one close to the edge, as I have been trying the slot closest to the CPU all this morning.
I'll also put my 2x512mb of Corsairs in and try that (one stick at a time of course)


did it post up Nate? .............. {side note} switching back to my CORSAIRs seem to be more stable than the G-Skills for some reason


----------



## nategr8ns

nope, still gets stuck trying to detect memory (3 LEDs on)
I really wanted to get a computer running so I put the CPU and memory back in my MSI board, put in the video card, two monitors, 24pin, 4pin, HDDs, and some rear panel stuff.
It gets stuck "detecting IDE drives"...
finds proc, finds mem, finds graphics card, fails at drives -.-
I'm going to try it without any drives and report back.

edit: I am now running on OptyMSI prime


----------



## Blitz6804

For anyone here in the state of New York, I urge you to take action. Unfortunately, the anti-video game bill (S 6401 A/A 11717) has passed both the House and Assembly and is now in hands of Governor Paterson. Please take action now and send a letter asking him to veto the anti-video game bill. New York gamers need to send a message: More video game education, not video game regulation!

This bill would waste NY residents hard earned tax dollars on investigating video games when the facts are already in. We have much higher priorities for our resources and dollars than this kind of crusade.

I fear that if this bill passes, a tax on games is soon to follow, if not an outright ban.


----------



## nategr8ns

thats a stupid bill...


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
nope, still gets stuck trying to detect memory (3 LEDs on)
I really wanted to get a computer running so I put the CPU and memory back in my MSI board, put in the video card, two monitors, 24pin, 4pin, HDDs, and some rear panel stuff.
It gets stuck "detecting IDE drives"...
finds proc, finds mem, finds graphics card, fails at drives -.-
I'm going to try it without any drives and report back.

edit: I am now running on OptyMSI prime

Did you do a CMOS reset and Jumpers ? {had to ask}


----------



## txtmstrjoe

nate, one DIMM has to be installed in the orange slot that is farther away from the CPU socket.

I can almost guarantee you that it will fire up after doing it this way.









Keep us updated!


----------



## nategr8ns

nope joe, I had tested that about 10 times each with a g.skill pc4000 stick and a corsair pc3200 stick








I did do a CMOS reset, but I have heard some crazy things you have to do to actually clear it.
googling it now...
edit:

Quote:

Remove power from the rig by pulling the plug or switching the PSU off.

Move the PC Speaker jumper to the ON position.

Remove the Battery.

Move the CMOS jumper to CLEAR.

Press the Start Button on the case or motherboard to drain the capacitors.

You may leave the board in this condition for as long as it takes to clear the CMOS. If a short 30 second clear or a 15 minute clear doesn't work, try an 8 hour clear then a 24 hour clear.

Plug in a PS2 Keyboard.

Put one stick of RAM in the top orange slot marked DIMM2.(may vary on Infinity boards)

Replace the Battery.

Move the CMOS jumper to Normal.

Press and hold the Insert Key on the Keyboard.

Apply power to the rig by plugging the power in or using the switch on the PSU.

Press the Start Button to power the rig up.

When you hear the BEEP, release the Insert Key and press the Delete Key on the Keyboard.

Once you enter the BIOS set the DATE and TIME then Load Optimized Defaults.

Save and Exit.

Enter the BIOS again and set it up the way you want for your particular rig.

NEVER load any saved CMOS settings from CMOS Reloaded once you have a new BIOS installed.
should I have a processor or memory in the DFI board when I do this? Because I already have my components in my MSI board


----------



## Blitz6804

Ah, there is your problem. That procedure forgot to mention the slaughtering of the fattened calf...

All I should think you need is a proc, the RAM as required, and a video card. Everything else is superfluous to access the BIOS.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
nope joe, I had tested that about 10 times each with a g.skill pc4000 stick and a corsair pc3200 stick








I did do a CMOS reset, but I have heard some crazy things you have to do to actually clear it.
googling it now...

Uh oh.

For a deeper CMOS clear, put the CMOS clear jumper to positions 2 - 3, then pull the battery out. Keep it out for maybe ten minutes, then reinstall it. Put your CMOS jumper back to positions 1 - 2.

For sure, though, on first power-ups, the RAM installation procedure (one DIMM in the orange slot furthest away from the CPU socket) is straight from the instruction manual. The board will NOT fire up if this is not done first.

If this fails, you might be looking at a dead/unhealthy motherboard or maybe dead RAM, though this is very very unlikely in this case, because the board will still POST with unhealthy RAM.

I forget, nate, what PSU are you running with the DFI? I know from thlnk3r's experience with his that some older PSUs, or those with inadequate output, will prevent a POST.

Good luck, buddy!


----------



## nategr8ns

sig rig PSU








blitz maybe you misunderstood me, I just want to know if a bare motherboard will be able to clear CMOS, or if maybe it needed components in it to clear it, which I doubted.
If I do need components, I'll power down and shlep my processor, ram, and video card back over to the DFI board (AGAIN!) and wait 24 hours to clear it (or should I wait 15 minutes first, and then go for the 24 hours?)

joe, the ram is definitely not dead, im running this computer (the one I'm posting from) off of it right now


----------



## Blitz6804

No, to clear a BIOS you just need the motherboard. Nothing else.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

No real need to wait an insanely long time, in my opinion. Once that battery's out, there's no power on the board; it's not like it's got a clock counting down to a whole twenty-four hour period.









Try for a shorter interval, then follow the procedure as stated.

For POST, you only need a CPU, RAM, and video. For CMOS clear, just the motherboard. Blitz Esq. was correct.


----------



## nategr8ns

ok, I have to shut down anyway because the DFI is still in my case, and the power supply cables and IDE cables are in the way of it
I'll be back in about 10-20 minutes.


----------



## Blitz6804

Mine is so sensitive I do not even need to unplug the sucker: just touch a screwdriver between the clean pins and the CMOS is dumped. The 24-hour rule usually comes to play on boards that do not have a dump pin.

I do agree with the idea of pushing the power button a few times to be sure the capacitor is drained. You should be able to just short the power pins with a screwdriver.


----------



## boonie2

Good luck Nate , hope you didnt get a bad board


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
Good luck Nate , hope you didnt get a bad board









boonster, just told Sub-Zero that myself a few minutes ago.









Just the same, nate, good luck! And keep us updated, please.


----------



## nategr8ns

still posting from my sig rig

jumper went to "clear" for a half a minute, then back to default. battery came out, pushed the power button a bunch of times.


----------



## Blitz6804

I have bad news and good news.

The bad: the sale of a 'new' GA-K8NSC-939 to me fell through.

The good: I am instead purchasing an Abit AT8 32X and a pair of Diamond HD 3850s. Currently $80 after rebate on the Egg.


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I have bad news and good news.

The bad: the sale of a 'new' GA-K8NSC-939 to me fell through.

The good: I am instead purchasing an Abit AT8 32X and a pair of Diamond HD 3850s. Currently $80 after rebate on the Egg.

Hard luck, but I think you'll be better off with the new rig...I had an Abit AX8, and that was a killer board







Great OCer


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I wonder what happened to good ol' nate?


----------



## nategr8ns

who me?
still letting the board clear cmos.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Boot the DFI now!

I'm getting impatient!


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Boot the DFI now!

I'm getting impatient!









Hows your 4870 getting on??


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SerenityKill3r* 
Hows your 4870 getting on??

Runs hot, but there's a fix for the fan speed.

Otherwise, it's faster than what the rest of my rig (as presently set up)!









I knew the CPU speed isn't nearly high enough to get the most out of this card, but that's okay. I had a hankering for a new ATI card, and I had some scratch, so...


----------



## Anqt31

@ nate ... doesn't it only take 10 seconds to clear the cmos?


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Anqt31* 
@ nate ... doesn't it only take 10 seconds to clear the cmos?

I have no idea, I've only had this thing out of a box for 24 hours (including me being asleep for 10, and not able to use it for another 5 or more, and me gaming for basically the rest of the 24 hours







)
the internet says 24 hours in some places, so thats what I was going to go by...
but maybe I'll try it in a few hours?


----------



## boonie2

boot boot boot boot boot boot boot boot {im trying long distance suggestive mind melding}


----------



## Anqt31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
I have no idea, I've only had this thing out of a box for 24 hours (including me being asleep for 10, and not able to use it for another 5 or more, and me gaming for basically the rest of the 24 hours







)
the internet says 24 hours in some places, so thats what I was going to go by...
but maybe I'll try it in a few hours?

Pull out the battery, wait 10 seconds; it should be reset by then. That's the longest I've ever had to wait...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

When I required a deep CMOS reset involving battery removal (a few weeks ago, in fact), I did it in just a couple of hours. I don't think a long interval will make a big difference, to be honest. With the battery out, no power connections, there's no power to the board, and whatever clock it's got has no power either.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


Pull out the battery, wait 10 seconds; it should be reset by then. That's the longest I've ever had to wait...


Same with my board too , just tried getting to 3.1 but .................... NO BOOT







think ill just quit and settle for a stable 2.85 before i fry up a component burger


----------



## txtmstrjoe

boonster, what was the limiting factor? Chip or board?


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


When I required a deep CMOS reset involving battery removal (a few weeks ago, in fact), I did it in just a couple of hours. I don't think a long interval will make a big difference, to be honest. With the battery out, no power connections, there's no power to the board, and whatever clock it's got has no power either.


It is a good idea to attach the power button and click that a few times just to be sure the capacitor is gone.


----------



## nategr8ns

I think I may miss my MSI... It took 5 seconds and NO battery removal to reset CMOS...
and if an overclock failed or if you have to turn off the board before POST using the power button or by cutting power two or three times in a row, it will automatically reset the FSB clock and then boot so that you don't have to change any settings back other than FSB...


----------



## boonie2

personally I think its my lack of knowledge of all the tweaks this board has Joe , till im more comfortable with it im playin it safe lol .. the chip made 3.025 pretty easy .. but I get skiddish thinking about upping the nothbridge voltage too much


----------



## Blitz6804

That is something I think I am going to miss with swapping to Abit instead of Gigabyte:

You actually have a CMOS jumper. The Gigabyte is no jumper to run, jumper to dump. If I want to dump, I just take my trusty case screw driver, tap it against the pins, and then reboot dumped. Now I am going to need to swap the stupid jumper around.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Yeah, boon, it's definitely a board that requires a studied approach.







I haven't even come close to knowing mine intimately enough yet. It's a very steep learning curve.

You could always go with thlnk3r's approach: Pick a setting, boot it up, test it, and run it if it passes the tests!


----------



## Anqt31

I aggree with joe, knowing your mobo makes a difference in how far you push it.


----------



## boonie2

ABSOLUTELY , Ive got too much time and $$ in it to jump in guessing


----------



## Anqt31

I was messing with my ram, and I upped the voltage a little (2.5 to 2.7) and I got my memory running @ close to 500Mhz. I was very surprised @ how high it would go. Any of you guy's have any experience with corsair memory. (Also, I set it back to normal)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Oh wow, Anqt!

Do you know which Corsair ValueSelects those are? (What's the model/stock number?)


----------



## Anqt31

I'll check, also I have memory heat sinks on them.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835106098


----------



## Blitz6804

I had wanted to get those myself, but I have not yet needed them.

I laugh at this one guy on Newegg:

"Gave rating of 3 because I can't use them. I wanted my newly built gaming rig to be as cool, powerful, stable, and last as long as possible. But if you get RAM with current heatspreaders, even Single Sided DIMMs, these won't fit. Since I don't see any current high performance RAM without heatspreaders - I deem these obsolete with their current design."

You are supposed to use these IN PLACE of the stock spreaders, not supplemental to.


----------



## Anqt31

Does this number look right?

VS1GB400C3


----------



## Blitz6804

BEFORE I LIST IT:

Does anyone want to buy my Sapphiretech Radeon HD 3850 AGP 512 MB? It is about 4 months old. I have the factory box and all accessories that came with it.


----------



## Anqt31

If it helps any, they are double sided sticks, I can't get to the number's on the sticks because of the heat sinks







sorry


----------



## Anqt31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


BEFORE I LIST IT:

Does anyone want to buy my Sapphiretech Radeon HD 3850 AGP 512 MB? It is about 4 months old. I have the factory box and all accessories that came with it.


Lol, I would if I had an AGP machine. On the same note, does anyone want any 8500GT's for spare rigs.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


Does this number look right?

VS1GB400C3


Yes sir.

What are the stock timings? Corsair (RAM Division) has an unfortunate habit of sometimes using the same model number for something completely different.

One more question: How long ago did you buy the RAM?

EDIT: Never mind. Most sources I've consulted strongly suggest that those Corsairs have Infineon BE-5s. Awesome purchase, for sure!


----------



## boonie2

Wow thats great for value select







my Sig. 500s have gone to 565 so far , better than my G-Skills


----------



## Anqt31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Yes sir.

What are the stock timings? Corsair (RAM Division) has an unfortunate habit of sometimes using the same model number for something completely different.

One more question: How long ago did you buy the RAM?

EDIT: Never mind. Most sources I've consulted strongly suggest that those Corsairs have Infineon BE-5s. Awesome purchase, for sure!










Stock: 3-3-3-8
OC'd: 2-3-2-5

I have 2 more sticks of this w/ heat spreaders, I just can't seem to OC as well with that many sticks.

Could I shoot 3 volts through, or would that kill them?


----------



## Blitz6804

I suppose you could shoot more voltage through the RAM, but remember there is always the danger of going too far. Temperatures should not be a problem for you given the spreaders, but expect a shorter lifespan due to the increased stress.

As to four DIMMs, adding voltage will only lessing the problem. It will not remove it. I have also found that overvolting the processor and/or northbridge both assist stability a fuzz when dealing with 4 GB of RAM. However, you will need to face the facts that 4 GB simply cannot clock as well as 2 GB. You will either need to reduce the speed, or the timings, or both, to get the system stable.

(Though, look into Poser's Story for the counterpoint to my pessimism.)


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Poser*


*Pioneer, Guadian, Blitz... my fellow RAM wranglers:

I think I have a made a significant breakthrough (with much help, suggestions and advice) in the my personal ram dilemma. The following 4 settings have had a great deal of influence on the ability to POST, Boot into vista and gain stability:

Tref: there is a great chart you can find @ xtreme and/or DIY forums mapping out the Tref rates accross several intervals (100,133,166, 200mhz and 1.95, 3.9, 7.8 and 15.6us) created by Dracula. The chart was made for NF4 LP boards, but is universal in its information. Remember, this parameter sets the rate at which a cell is "re-charged" so its data does not decay... and can be either too loose or tight, preventing stability and/or boot

DRAM drive strength: This controls the strength of the memory bus' signal strength. The settings are either normal (even values) or weak (odd values) with the higher numbers either indicating a weak value close to normal, or a normal value at the highest level of strength

DRAM data drive strength: (lvl 1-4): This is used to boost the signal strength of the memoru data line. From my reading, the higher density your ICs, (i.e. dual sided dimm) the greater the signal strength needed at higher clocks. The levels are used to reduce strength, 1 being the weakest and 4 being the strongest. (I found lvl 3 best for me)

Max Async Latency: For me this has proved the holy grail of settings to stabilize 4gb dimm with the a64 IMC There is very limited information I have found regarding this setting, but from what I have garnered, this setting controls the asynchronous latency from the data line being pumped from the processors IMC to the furthest (physical location) DIMM on your board. In plain english, it controls the data pump traffic (like a crossing guard) to allow data to reach the furthest DIMM before issuing another signal. (this could be completely wrong







, so I take no responsiblity....nor am I an expert of any kind in anything other than nose picking). By relaxing my MAL to 11ns I am currently priming with the settings you can observe below:









Unbelievable, I know. Before I couldn't even boot into DDR320.... now I am priming at my previous most stable overclock @ DDR486. Should this pass all tests, I might even up the vCore and try for a DDR500 24/7 stable on air 3.0ghz OC with 4GB RAM!!!!!!

I also may re-experiment with just 2gigs to see what kind of craziness I can get...shattering previous overclocks.

NOTE: upping your MAL, will get you stable at higher clocks....but at the cost of latency and max bandwidth

ALSO: I don't care what anyone tells you ... there is a huge performance difference between 4gb and 2gb in vista. While priming, I could barely surf the web with 2gb. Now, I have multiple browsers open, foobar running, priming and don't even notice a hitch in my system....just saying
*



why so much vcore ? looks like hes using 1.44 to get 2.9 ?


----------



## Blitz6804

If I remember 'The Joe' right, CCBBE is an excellent stepping in terms of speed, but a very bad one in terms of vCore.

Unlike LCBQE which is an excellent stepping in terms of both. (A statement which both Thlnk3r and Pioneer will swear to.)


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


why so much vcore ? looks like hes using 1.44 to get 2.9 ?


same as mine. I can boot in and run 3.1Ghz "not exactly stable" but CCBBE chips require higher Vcore than the others. That is one of the reason I doubt I will ever be stable at 3.1Ghz with aircooling. Now at 2.9Ghz I have to run 1.425V...3Ghz I need 1.525V


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes Boonie, I realize you are running only 1.37 V for your 3 GHz. Let us say you got the "Golden Chip" of your stepping.


----------



## boonie2

thats good info. yet another fact I didnt know .Thanks


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Yes Boonie, I realize you are running only 1.37 V for your 3 GHz. Let us say you got the "Golden Chip" of your stepping.


Wow thats impressive...whats the max you've got Boonie??


----------



## nategr8ns

so what do you guys think? Should I let my motherboard sit overnight and try to boot it up tomorrow?

I really wish I had a spare PSU capable of powering a 3700+, 2x512, MSI board







. my original rig. After my DFI goes in, I won't have any of the base parts that I started out with









(I know another member here that lives in the same town, do you think its worth asking him to lend me a power supply?)


----------



## Blitz6804

It certainly couldn't hurt nategr8ns. Is it anyone I know?


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SerenityKill3r*


Wow thats impressive...whats the max you've got Boonie??



Max stable is 2.915 w/1.37v , till I figure out all the tweaks on this board im staying right here


----------



## nategr8ns

RPIJG, so maybe, maybe not








w00t 3333 post


----------



## Blitz6804

How about a DFI POST?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


Lol, I would if I had an AGP machine. On the same note, does anyone want any 8500GT's for spare rigs.


I might be interested if the price is right. I'll only need one. But if the price is right, one would be absolutely PERFECT for my other HTPC build I'm working on.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


why so much vcore ? looks like hes using 1.44 to get 2.9 ?


I'd have to agree. The CCBBE chips do require much more voltage to reach high clocks, but they are able to outclock most other steppings (typically). Mine, thinkerbell's, and your own...are all "golden" chips. 3.0GHz under 1.40v...that to me makes a "golden" chip for a 939'er. I also require 1.375v to reach the 3.0GHz mark. But I only require 1.26v for a 2.8 stable run, so that's where I'm at during summer time.


----------



## Blitz6804

For example, it took me 1.520 V to hit 3007 MHz. Granted, at that time, I had bad RAM. I might try again once I get the 'new' Abit.


----------



## nategr8ns

OK no luck with the DFI








3700+ went in with ketchup and the stock opty cooler
one stick of corsair VS 400mhz in the uppermost orange slot
all power plugs in, no other components (tried both with and without a graphics card)
still can't find memory!!!!!


----------



## Blitz6804

I would contact the seller; perhaps your board is wired wrong (IE; one of the channels is reversed or something) and he can tell you what he learned. What warranty was offered on the board? 'As-is' or limited warranty? Were you so lucky to get a general warranty? Another thing to try: just for sake of fun, change the CMOS battery.


----------



## nategr8ns

well the board will run without a battery in it, so I don't think thats the problem (except it wouldn't save my CMOS is I unplugged it or the power went out)
I guess I could try it though.
I'm now back on my MSI though :\\

I don't know anything about the warranty, I didn't think you could buy additional warranties through eBay, but DFI's motherboards carry 3 year warranties IIRC.


----------



## Blitz6804

What I am saying is that some sellers guarantee against DoA. Some guarantee it will work for a certain amount of time. Most sellers say it is "as-is," and if it is DoA, you are SoL.

TLAs FTW!

Wait, what do you mean the board will run without a battery in it? It will POST that way?


----------



## nategr8ns

well no, but the first diag light (processor) turned off and then I noticed I was still holding the battery...
so it was work"ing"


----------



## txtmstrjoe

nate, do you have another PSU to try with this board? As thlnk3r has reported, these DFI LANParty motherboards are quite sensitive to their PSU's output. Perhaps you have a buddy locally who can let you test with his PSU, if only to eliminate it from the troubleshooting equation.

Please let us know the status of the situation! Your brothers and sister are keen to know.


----------



## nategr8ns

:\\
I don't know, it doesn't make sense that it would be able to find the processor and not the RAM if it's a PSU issue...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

nate, these DFIs are extremely finicky. thlnk3r has already found out with his LANParty UT nF4 SLI-DR that, even with a Seasonic (albeit one that is a little older), it will not POST.

This is like that snobby girl you couldn't take your eyes off of in high school. She's rich, she's pretty, you'd like to take her out, but since you don't look like you're in her league, she doesn't play nice with you until you start showing and giving her great stuff.









It's very likely, actually, your PSU is up to scratch. After all, G.O. runs with one of those (I have one, too, and it's been great), but your specific PSU may not be as healthy as it used to be. I made my suggestion to try another PSU just to rule out the possibility that it is a PSU-related problem.









Keep at it! And good luck.


----------



## nategr8ns

do you think I would be able to test the PSU itself? Like sticking a multitester into different leads again, see if all of the voltages are where they should be?
I don't know if my multitester can test current (amps) or power (watts) and even if it does, I don't know how to use it under those settings. I have a yellow Radioshack one if any of you guys have one and can walk me through it.
I'm going out for a few hours though, so I'll respond later today


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Worth a try.

I would suggest PMing thlnk3r on how to use one of those; I don't even own one.







But he has one, and knows how to use it.

Good luck, man!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


do you think I would be able to test the PSU itself? Like sticking a multitester into different leads again, see if all of the voltages are where they should be?
I don't know if my multitester can test current (amps) or power (watts) and even if it does, I don't know how to use it under those settings. I have a yellow Radioshack one if any of you guys have one and can walk me through it.
I'm going out for a few hours though, so I'll respond later today










Nate, here is the guide that I usually follow:

http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/guide...ing-guide.html

I'd recommend also testing the voltages while the system is on full load.

Hope that helps. Be careful


----------



## Anqt31

(yawn) - what's going on today? Anything new...


----------



## alexgheseger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


(yawn) - what's going on today? Anything new...










The case mod comp. build logs just went public... Look at iandh's entry if you want to be absolutely floored


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexgheseger*


The case mod comp. build logs just went public... Look at iandh's entry if you want to be absolutely floored










Alex, can you supply us with a link?


----------



## alexgheseger

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Alex, can you supply us with a link?

Here is a link to Iandh's build.

Here is a link to all of them.


----------



## thlnk3r

Alex, thanks for the link. Iandroo's mod is amazing. I had to rep him for all of that


----------



## alexgheseger

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Alex, thanks for the link. Iandroo's mod is amazing. I had to rep him for all of that









Actually, This is iandroo's.

I linked you to iandh's.


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Iandh's build is amazing...love the solar system setup


----------



## Blitz6804

Looks like iandroo never finished.

Props to yours though Alex.


----------



## nategr8ns

nice job on yours alex








thanks for all the pics! I'm only like 3/4 of the way through after 10 minutes


----------



## alexgheseger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Looks like iandroo never finished.

Props to yours though Alex.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


nice job on yours alex








thanks for all the pics! I'm only like 3/4 of the way through after 10 minutes










Thanks.









I only uploaded a third of the pics i took too


----------



## Blitz6804

Hey Nate... speaking of the case mod comp, what happened with yours? I was waiting to see the case you were building for the P4, but it never happened?


----------



## nategr8ns

no blitz, the comp was at the worst time for me, I had school and stuff with not much time to work on it. I also don't really have the right tools, or experience








In fact, its been sitting in my garage for over a month... The metal is so hard that I have a hard time grinding the fan hole into something that won't cut you if you touch it :\\


----------



## Blitz6804

Ouch. I guess that means you have two projects to get done before school resumes:

Dark Creed and Rocks in a Glass House. GET HOPPING SKIPPY!

*Chuckles*


----------



## iandroo888

i didnt get to finish it. oh well. it was fun playing around with acrylic. oh well. no considerations for unfinished project. meh.


----------



## Blitz6804

OMG! Drew! You live!


----------



## iandroo888

i've been alive. just away from this thread. too much is posted here. can never catch up. so gave up reading here.








hey post says 939 in there.. lol.

so yah. case isnt finished. i suck. i and h's just owns mine. lost inspiration in doing anything now. lol

*edit*

although i have noticed some of those case mod competition threads are empty. lol


----------



## Blitz6804

Woot! I now have TWO units.

And I have reached a profound conclusion: my laptop is a waste of time and electricity.

PS3: 360 Points, 1 WU, 8 hours
LT: 214 Points, 1 WU, 57 hours

I wonder what my desktop will do when (if?) ever I get it back going.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Your desktop shall rise again.

Like the phoenix, it shall be resurrected from the ashes, and live a fiery life, burning brightly for all to see.

Just beware, lest the flames that spawned thy ambitions consume thee in a mad pursuit of even more performance.


----------



## iandroo888

what happened to your desktop?


----------



## Blitz6804

1) I notice that Joe got a new Avvie.
2) Iandroo: the motherboard died again. It is being RMAed.

Simultaneously, I am purchasing an Abit AT8-32x and a pair of HD 3850s.


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Hey guys,

What do you think of the Dell E228WFP 22inch LCD?? Might get one with my new comp.

http://accessories.euro.dell.com/sna...dhs1&sku=88221


----------



## GuardianOdin

Looks pretty darn nice! I'd wouldn't mind ditching my 19inch for that.


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Looks pretty darn nice! I'd wouldn't mind ditching my 19inch for that.

What would be the advantages of 2ms against 5ms response rates do you know?


----------



## Blitz6804

Supposedly less image ghosting. Most human eyeballs cannot tell the difference past 5-8ms anyway, so I think it would be unneeded.

I will say I have had a lot of luck with Dell Ultrasharps. The non-Ultrasharp Dells tend to look a little washed out, but are still outstanding monitors. I would say go for it!


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Supposedly less image ghosting. Most human eyeballs cannot tell the difference past 5-8ms anyway, so I think it would be unneeded.

I will say I have had a lot of luck with Dell Ultrasharps. The non-Ultrasharp Dells tend to look a little washed out, but are still outstanding monitors. I would say go for it!

Thanks, The one I posted isn't an ultrasharp is it??

I love your monitor, I had the pleasure to game on one a while back...massive screen


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I've long been a fan of Dell's UltraSharps as well. Wish I had the koin to get one.

Perhaps you can loan your new one to me, Serenity?

(It's worth a shot...)


----------



## Blitz6804

No, the one you posted is not an Ultrasharp. I have seen non-ultrasharp Dell's though. (My sister's 19" for example.) Between an Ultrasharp and a non, you can tell the difference. The non-ultrasharp still puts Westinghouse, HP, and Sony to shame.


----------



## SerenityKill3r

How would that Dell compare to a Samsung 226BW??


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I've long been a fan of Dell's UltraSharps as well. Wish I had the koin to get one.

Perhaps you can loan your new one to me, Serenity?

(It's worth a shot...)









Sure, why not?

Just give me your address, social security number, bank account number and credit card number, and I've send it right to you


----------



## thlnk3r

Serenity, I believe those response times are grey-to-grey. You would think color might be slightly higher in response time. I honestly don't think it makes a big difference. LCD's these days are so much better then they were when they first came out that ghosting and smearing is not even noticeable.

Check out this thread on hardforum, I hope that helps with your purchase:
http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1145317

Good luck


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Serenity, I believe those response times are grey-to-grey. You would think color might be slightly higher in response time. I honestly don't think it makes a big difference. LCD's these days are so much better then they were when they first came out that ghosting and smearing is not even noticeable.

Check out this thread on hardforum, I hope that helps with your purchase:
http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1145317

Good luck









Thanks for the Link









Congrats on becoming supervisor, I've been trying to get in as a forum editor for the AMD section, but no luck









(Ya might put in a word for me, wink wink







)


----------



## GuardianOdin

Congratz thlnk3r!....Spiffy new job on OCN! very cool man.


----------



## thlnk3r

Thanks guys! Keep up the great work


----------



## Anqt31

Yep, congrats thlnk3r

Have a good night guys! Don't talk about anything too important...


----------



## vwgti

Congrats think3r. Hi to all, I still come in and visit to catch up on whats on going here. Good luck with that dfi nate.


----------



## boonie2

Hey THINK3R , Congrats


----------



## SZayat

my Kudos to You, _THINK3R_


----------



## nategr8ns

hey th1ink3r, your name is green _and _bold!
congratulations


----------



## txtmstrjoe

thlnk3r, I know all your secrets. Muhahahahaha

j/k, buddy. I just wanna give my partner in crime, and co-founder of this Club, a very public *KUDOS*. Well done, my friend!









(Lunch is on you next time.







)


----------



## SerenityKill3r

When do you guys think the 45nm Phenoms will be out??

Are you gonna finally upgrade your systems?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


hey th1ink3r, your name is green _and _bold!
congratulations










See...that's the best part......It's says "Don't F! with me mister!!!"


----------



## boonie2




----------



## thlnk3r

Thanks guys









In regards to Serenity's post, I found this during a google search:

http://hothardware.com/cs/forums/t/39290.aspx

I wonder if that is a legit OC


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SerenityKill3r*


When do you guys think the 45nm Phenoms will be out??

Are you gonna finally upgrade your systems?










Eventually we'll move on, I'm sure. I'm holding out for that 12-core Opteron myself.







(Not that I run anything that remotely needs twelve cores, but there you go...)

I don't think our friend Sub-Zero will be, though. At least not as soon as most of us. He only just recently decided to join the world of PCI-E!









(Just ribbing you, Blitz.







)


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Thanks guys









In regards to Serenity's post, I found this during a google search:

http://hothardware.com/cs/forums/t/39290.aspx

I wonder if that is a legit OC










yep it's legit.


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Thanks guys









In regards to Serenity's post, I found this during a google search:

http://hothardware.com/cs/forums/t/39290.aspx

I wonder if that is a legit OC










That was posted in the News section. I thought it was cool, SuperPi was a little dissapointing, but to be honest, thats mostly cache based, which the K8/K10 architecture isn't entirely dependant on.

EDIT: That voltage is very high for 45nm...I wonder what's the max voltage these babies can take...


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Eventually we'll move on, I'm sure. I'm holding out for that 12-core Opteron myself.







(Not that I run anything that remotely needs twelve cores, but there you go...)

I don't think our friend Sub-Zero will be, though. At least not as soon as most of us. He only just recently decided to join the world of PCI-E!









(Just ribbing you, Blitz.







)

And yet, you are completely honest. I am keeping 939 for at least the next two years. Upon graduation from law school (should that happen) I am going to throw as much money as I can into the newest All-AMD rig. I am hoping for a budget of 15-18,000.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SerenityKill3r* 
That was posted in the News section. I thought it was cool, SuperPi was a little dissapointing, but to be honest, thats mostly cache based, which the K8/K10 architecture isn't entirely dependant on.

EDIT: That voltage is very high for 45nm...I wonder what's the max voltage these babies can take...

I agree that voltage is fairly high, but I wonder if they even messed with any other setting to get that OC. I'd bet my next paycheck that, that OC can be reached without such a high voltage.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
I agree that voltage is fairly high, but I wonder if they even messed with any other setting to get that OC. I'd bet my next paycheck that, that OC can be reached without such a high voltage.

I will take you up on that GO. Your next paycheck to me if it does need that voltage. My next paycheck to you if it does not.


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
I agree that voltage is fairly high, but I wonder if they even messed with any other setting to get that OC. I'd bet my next paycheck that, that OC can be reached without such a high voltage.

Yeah, prob just upped the multi, and stabilised it by upping the voltage.

I say you may be able to reach 3.6 at ~ 1.45-1.5


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I will take you up on that GO. Your next paycheck to me if it does need that voltage. My next paycheck to you if it does not.

G.O., be wary. I smell a trap.

I'm not sure Sub-Zero's ninja clan gives him any money at all.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I will take you up on that GO. Your next paycheck to me if it does need that voltage. My next paycheck to you if it does not.

lol you'd be better off selling blood.


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
G.O., be wary. I smell a trap.

I'm not sure Sub-Zero's ninja clan gives him any money at all.









I second that! Don't trust anyone


----------



## Blitz6804

I am talking RL here.

I guess it depends on luck; if I get the job I applied for, my next check might be minimum wage stuff. If not, my next check will likely be when I do tech support for my very-blond, over-paying neighbor.

Once, I got a Soundblaster X-Fi Platinum for 90 minutes of work. That work was: install Spybot. Run three scans. Check emails in the mean time. Leave.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I am talking RL here.

I guess it depends on luck; if I get the job I applied for, my next check might be minimum wage stuff. If not, my next check will likely be when I do tech support for my very-blond, over-paying neighbor.

Once, I got a Soundblaster X-Fi Platinum for 90 minutes of work. That work was: install Spybot. Run three scans. Check emails in the mean time. Leave.

Lol I was speaking metaphorically (I think that's what that big word means"


----------



## Blitz6804

Oh you tease!


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I am talking RL here.

I guess it depends on luck; if I get the job I applied for, my next check might be minimum wage stuff. If not, my next check will likely be when I do tech support for my very-blond, over-paying neighbor.

Once, I got a Soundblaster X-Fi Platinum for 90 minutes of work. That work was: install Spybot. Run three scans. Check emails in the mean time. Leave.

Oooooh I beat you:

I installed AVG free and got $75









And I actually got $30 today for installing OpenOffice









The weird thing is, I always tell them beforehand that it's free software lol


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SerenityKill3r*


When do you guys think the 45nm Phenoms will be out??

Are you gonna finally upgrade your systems?










pshhhhh, nah!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


And yet, you are completely honest. I am keeping 939 for at least the next two years. Upon graduation from law school (should that happen) I am going to throw as much money as I can into the newest All-AMD rig. I am hoping for a budget of 15-18,000.


thats a ton of money








I'm going to be waiting for the next sockets from both Intel and AMD. I'm just going to go to the brand that gives me the best price/performance









is anybody else watching the E3 coverage on G4TV? I'm watching it now, just saw GoW2 (xbox exclusive







) and resident evil 5: looks awesome!

Xbox operating system is getting a makeover also, and is now resembling that of the Wii with its new avatar system.

hey, can you share some of your clientele with me? I know how to install software


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


hey, can you share some of your clientele with me? I know how to install software










Nope, its a secret









I couldn't believe it when I got handed $75 just for installing AVG...Literally 1 minutes work, and I already had it on my flash drive.

I'm gonna be doing a PC for a lady I work with next week, She just wants in sped up, so I'm just gonna reformat it and tweak some startup programs









Easy money


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
is anybody else watching the E3 coverage on G4TV? I'm watching it now, just saw GoW2 (xbox exclusive







) and resident evil 5: looks awesome!

That is what they said about Mass Effect. I purchased it on launch day.

I did not like the stilted controls, and was ticked off when it did come out on computer. I have it, but have not installed yet.

Anyone want to buy my 360 version?

As for Gears of War, I bought that for PC. Also, not yet installed.


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
That is what they said about Mass Effect. I purchased it on launch day.

I did not like the stilted controls, and was ticked off when it did come out on computer. I have it, but have not installed yet.

Anyone want to buy my 360 version?

As for Gears of War, I bought that for PC. Also, not yet installed.

GoW 2 will be out after a year on XBOX...

I cant wait for it...have to get my 360 fixed first though


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Why don't you guys do a Socket 939 top 10??

I think it would be cool, try and beat some AM2 systems


----------



## Anqt31

I thought we already had beaten some AM2 systems;


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


I thought we already had beaten some AM2 systems;










I mean as in compare the top 10 939 to the top 10 AM2


----------



## Anqt31

Okay, but would you compare dual core to dual core, or dual core to quad core?


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


Okay, but would you compare dual core to dual core, or dual core to quad core?


Dual to Dual of course...have to be fair don't we


----------



## thlnk3r

Serenity, that's a interesting idea. I'll have to shoot Joe a PM and see what he says


----------



## nategr8ns

We should compare the top 10 939s with dual graphics with the top 10 AM2s with dual graphics, and the same for single card setups.
Single-card [email protected]!!!!!!!!!!!11


----------



## SerenityKill3r

I'd be interested in doing up a little database or at least a portion of it...


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Something I threw together:


----------



## thlnk3r

Serenity, looks nice









I won't be able to post any results until I get my 4850


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Serenity, looks nice









I won't be able to post any results until I get my 4850










No problem


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Serenity, that looks awesome! I've PMed you my thoughts on it.









nate, any news on your DFI?

Sorry, guys and doll. Work has been insane today. I knew there was a reason I didn't want to leave the apartment today! (I wanted to stay in and play games!







)


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Got your PM, and replied post haste


----------



## Anqt31

Serenity, um you have two sections for 939, lol.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


Serenity, um you have two sections for 939, lol.


Dual Card and Single Card


----------



## Anqt31

Okay, my bad.


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


Okay, my bad.










lol, don't worry about it


----------



## nategr8ns

Lol serenity, headcrab!!!!!

"A strange game.

The only winning move is not to play.

How about a nice game of chess?"

Name that movie, and the two games I'm thinking of that remind me of it.

you'll get cookies









joe, I haven't tested the motherboard today. Woke up early for drivers ed, then drove / walked around for a while, ate lunch at subway, and then went to piano lessons (cut me some slack, I'm learning the super mario theme song)

I'm tired of just trying the same things over and over again, it just simply won't find the memory! What else can I try, other than a PSU swap? (I have an antec earthwatts 430 I can probably try... but its all cable-managed into my dad's case, so that will be a PITA)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I can name the movie, I think.

"Wargames."

His eminence lord thlnk3rb377 mentioned he just saw it the other day.

As far as what games, well, I'd like to think chess is one of them. No real clue, though, really.


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
Lol serenity, headcrab!!!!!

Ha, I threw it together in PS CS3 a while ago.

Half Life fan??


----------



## nategr8ns

definitely! I think I'm a member of the "black mesa survivors club" here, but now I can't remember...








Still haven't worked my way through Ep2, Portal and TF2 got in the way







(PORTAL 2 ANNOUNCED AT E3!!!!!!!!!!!!)

I'll give you guys a hint: the games are both available on Steam.


----------



## Blitz6804

I loved HL.

I never played HL2. I simply could not agree to the EULA.

I did play Portal (on my sister's 360) and would find the game fun if it were not so short and stuck with console controller. No FPS (not even Crysis) is complete without a Microsoft Strategic Commander. (Yes, it works in Vista.)


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I never played HL2. I simply could not agree to the EULA.

What do you mean?? HL2 is the best game ever made...

I updated my Avy again...I kinda like this one


----------



## Blitz6804

Ah, story of my life:

_Cash_ by Sugar Ray.

A more fitting song given my activities tonight is _Margaritaville_ by Jimmy Buffet. If you see me slurring my typing later, just remember, that while some people claim there is a woman to blame, I think that it could be my fault.


----------



## Anqt31

Hey guy's, I finally go my memory running @ 500Mhz. Timings are 3-4-4-8.

Specs:
SPEED: 2500
FSB: 250
MULT: x10
VCORE: 1.4V
HT: 1000
TIMINGS: 3-4-4-8
FSB-TO-RAM: 1:1
VOLTAGE: 2.65V

I'll post pictures after I get it stable (8hrs Orthos tested)


----------



## Blitz6804

Congratz Anqt31.

To celebrate, here is a riddle for the club. Please be fair to your fellow club members and do not use Google. (Or any search engine)

In 1980, a man is 10 years old.

In 1985, that same man is 5 years old.

How is this possible?


----------



## Anqt31

Good riddle, I've got no idea... and wouldn't that "guy" be a boy?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

My guess is Ronald Reagan. In 1980, he was senile and going through his second childhood; by 1985, he was only five years old in his mind.

My girlfriend thinks it's someone in the computer world who died in 1990. Her rationale? Well, if he's 10 in 1980, and only 5 in 1985, he'd be 0 yrs old in 1990 (and, to her mind, therefore dead).

But this one's got me stumped.


----------



## Blitz6804

Anqt31: Good point. Call him a boy if you would rather.

txtmstrjoe: No, it isn't Ronnie. No, the guy isn't senile. No Mrs. Joe, he isn't in a computer.


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Anqt31: Good point. Call him a boy if you would rather.

txtmstrjoe: No, it isn't Ronnie. No, the guy isn't senile. No Mrs. Joe, he isn't in a computer.


Its BC not AD









Heres one:

Everyday, A man wakes up in his penthouse apartment on the 20th floor. He takes the elevator to the ground floor every morning and goes to work. When he comes home, he takes the elevator from the ground floor to the 15th floor and walks the rest of the way. Why is this?


----------



## Blitz6804

Thanks so much for ruining the fun Serenity. (-_-)


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Thanks so much for ruining the fun Serenity. (-_-)


Aww I'm sorry, I added one to continue the fun


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Serenity, I'm still thinking about this one, but Jaime (my girlfriend) thinks the penthouse actually starts on the 15th floor and is five floors high.

(Or, maybe he's visiting his girlfriend, she says further.)

(Don't knock the messenger, guys.)


----------



## Blitz6804

Or perhaps, he is not tall enough to reach the button to the 20th floor.


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Serenity, I'm still thinking about this one, but Jaime (my girlfriend) thinks the penthouse actually starts on the 15th floor and is five floors high.

(Or, maybe he's visiting his girlfriend, she says further.)

(Don't knock the messenger, guys.)










Tell her its a good guess, but as stated, his apartment is on the 20th floor









My first answer when I first heard it was a booty call


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Or perhaps, he is not tall enough to reach the button to the 20th floor.

Bingo, he's a dwarf









EDIT: 1,100 Posts, Woot


----------



## Blitz6804

So this guy walks into a bakery...

Oh wait, that joke would likely be against the ToS. Lemme try again:

So this guy walks into a bar.

*OUCH!*


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
So this guy walks into a bakery...

Oh wait, that joke would likely be against the ToS. Lemme try again:

So this guy walks into a bar.

*OUCH!*

OLD!!!









Horse walks into a bar...

Bartender says, "Why the long face?"


----------



## Blitz6804

So this rope walks into a bar. He tells the bartender "I want a beer." The bartender says, "Are you a rope?" The Rope replies, "of course I am!" To which the bartender says, "I am sorry, we don't serve your kind here."

So the rope walks outside and shreds his head, and then walks back in.

"I want a beer" he tells the bartender. The bartender looks him up and down and then asks, "Are you a rope?" The rope replies, "Nope, I'm a frayed knot!"


----------



## SerenityKill3r

lmao...enough with the stupid jokes...its too late


----------



## Blitz6804

Too late? It is almost 6am! How is that too late!?


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Too late? It is almost 6am! How is that too late!?

I just cant sleep









Damn iPod with your Led Zepellin goodness...

Why do you have to be so long Kashmir, why?!?!


----------



## GuardianOdin

hey guys, how bad would this slow down my bandwidth if I got a second 8800GT?

From DFI's site on the Expert:

- Each x16 slot operates at x8 bandwidth. When the graphics cards are connected
via the SLI bridge, the total bandwidth of the two graphics cards is x16.


----------



## nategr8ns

G.O., you'd be fine to SLI.
I don't think the bandwidth difference between x8x8 and x16x16 makes any difference in games.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


hey guys, how bad would this slow down my bandwidth if I got a second 8800GT?

From DFI's site on the Expert:

- Each x16 slot operates at x8 bandwidth. When the graphics cards are connected 
via the SLI bridge, the total bandwidth of the two graphics cards is x16.


ODIN , I havent noticed any Neg. differance at all since I went SLI .. nice to turn everythig up to MAX. researching on how to O/C both cards instead of just the primary card


----------



## SerenityKill3r

8x & 8x Sli is good, the cards never use the full 16x anyway.

The board I'm getting is 16x & 4x Crossfire. I want to see, if or when I go crossfire, how that effects my performance...


----------



## Anqt31

Go for it G.O. I don't think it will hurt anything... in a new Core 2 Extreme machine, it might, but in our rigs... who cares!


----------



## GuardianOdin

cool thanks guys, If I do actually buy another 8800GT I'll be using for [email protected] mainly. Then if I want to crank up a game I can just flip the SLi on. Hmmm..


----------



## Blitz6804

GuardianOdin think's he is a Viking Tux...

If I remember right, the difference between 32x and 16x is negligible on the SLI, much less of a difference than 16x versus 8x on a single card. In the long run, the gains over SLI far outweigh what you will lose in dropping each card from 16x to 8x.

However, if you intend to run the cards separately when folding, expect a slight, noticeable, performance hit. It would be as if you put your 8800 GT into an AGP rig. On the other hand, since you are not intending to game with only one card anyway, what does it matter? Keep in mind though that two cards would be drawing (at least) 79-185W stock; more if overclocked. I wish you luck; you and I may have new power supplies in our futures.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


hey guys, how bad would this slow down my bandwidth if I got a second 8800GT?

From DFI's site on the Expert:

- Each x16 slot operates at x8 bandwidth. When the graphics cards are connected 
via the SLI bridge, the total bandwidth of the two graphics cards is x16.


Guardian, there is definitely a noticeable change going from 2x to 16x (if that helps at all). I used 3DMark06 to compare the differences and it was enough to notice.

2x - 8887
16x - 9693

Those runs were done with a 3850 at 700/850. You might want to think about getting a different PSU. It looks like your current X-Finity is only pushing 35amps. If your going SLI pick up something that has at least 50amps and has 80 plus efficiency.

Good luck buddy


----------



## boonie2

any opinions on the newer Seagate 7200.11's 320gb hardrives ? looking at those or maybe the Hitachi 750gb's theyre on sale too ?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
any opinions on the newer Seagate 7200.11's 320gb hardrives ? looking at those or maybe the Hitachi 750gb's theyre on sale too ?

boonie, I had a ton of problems with the Seagate 7200.11 500GB HDDs. There are widespread reports of Seagates and Maxtors, actually, generating Event ID 51s (page fault errors), which slow your system to a crawl during any operations requiring a lot of I/O access to the drives.

The frustrating thing is, nVidia (the most prevalent chipset maker involved in the reports of these problems) and Seagate/Maxtor (now one company) both blame each other for this problem without providing consumers any real guaranteed solutions.

I tried to find a permanent fix for the problem, but never found one. That is, until I got Western Digital HDDs again.

I don't have any comments on the Hitachi HDDs, but I know his lordship thlnk3rb377 thinks highly of them.

Hope this helps!


----------



## boonie2

Thanks Joe , I was just reading some reviews talking about those errors too, think I might get the 500gb Hitachi , same price as the 320gb Seagate 7200.11 but twice the seek time tho ...... what to do , what to do


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
any opinions on the newer Seagate 7200.11's 320gb hardrives ? looking at those or maybe the Hitachi 750gb's theyre on sale too ?

Boonie, check out this link: http://www.silentpcreview.com/forums...ic.php?t=46741. Someone posted a quick benchmark. A few other members on that forum commented a little.

Hope that helps buddy









EDIT: Do you want performance or storage? This might turn into a debate amongst other members


----------



## Blitz6804

I have been Western Digital until recently.

Then I got my hands on one of those OEM Deskstars with rebate...

I do not think I am going Western Digital again anytime soon.


----------



## Anqt31

Uploading pic, DDR500


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I have been Western Digital until recently.

Then I got my hands on one of those OEM Deskstars with rebate...

*I do not think I am going Western Digital again anytime soon*.

Just out of curiosity, but is your decision based on cost, or based on other non-mentioned reasons?

Speaking of HDD performance, thlnk3r, why not offering up a new Raptor to me in a trade for something you want from me?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Anqt31* 
Uploading pic, DDR500









Anqt, looking good









Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Speaking of HDD performance, thlnk3r, why not offering up a new Raptor to me in a trade for something you want from me?









Joe, that is crazy talk









Perhaps maybe if I pick up one of the new 2.5" Raptors I might think about it


----------



## Blitz6804

Partially cost (Hitachi is cheaper GB for GB) and partially performance. This drive really moves! Not to mention the niceness of a 32 MB cache.

I will note that I have two complaints with it: it is a touch warm (warmer than my CPU when it is idling) and a bit loud. At nearly 40 dBA, it is the loudest thing in my computer.


----------



## Anqt31

No one on tonight? Wow!

Or maybe, just the college students?


----------



## Blitz6804

Nah; it has been really dead lately. I wish someone would tell me why.


----------



## Anqt31

Maybe joe, nate, SK, and G.O. are at work. I saw th1nk3r around somewhere in the forums.


----------



## boonie2

Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz zzzzzzzz


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Nah; it has been really dead lately. I wish someone would tell me why.


Blitz, I'm sure when the next contest starts this thread will be jam packed with posts


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well I am here again! Just came home to a 3 day pay or vacate notice too! Made my absolutely wonderful day even better /sarcasm.


----------



## Blitz6804

I would like to just point out a funny bit of irony. Nexon (the company that hosts Maplestory in the US) ends most news items and correspondences with "Nexon representatives will NEVER ask you for your password or pin."

I wanted to change my email address on file, so I sent a support ticket. Here is the response:

"Thank you for your inquiry. We do not normally allow email changes, however if you can verify the account information below we will see what we can do. When you submit a new ticket please send the following information along with a summery of the issue you're having.

Account password:
Registered Email:
New Email:
Full Name:
Birth Day:
Secret Question one and Answer (What is the name of your best friend?):
Secret Question two and Answer:
Forum handle:
ALL Character Names:
Reason registered Email no longer valid:"

While my IQ might technically make me a genius, I do not think I am the only one who notices what the first line of the necessary materials is...


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Anqt31* 
Maybe joe, nate, SK, and G.O. are at work. I saw th1nk3r around somewhere in the forums.

lol, work, thats a good one!
nah, I've been having to go to bed earlier because of driver's ed mon-thurs.
about 9:30 EST I'm usually off the forums.

blitz, thats kind of... stupid. Send them some more complaints.
or stop playing that funny korean game or wherever it comes from


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quick update for S939 Club members: The rules package for our upcoming Stock Cooler Overclocking Challenge is almost fully approved by our officers. Please expect an announcement imminently which will detail all the logistics, rules, and requirements.

Paging: pioneerisloud! Please provide txtmstrjoe a viable email address to which I can forward you the rules package email. You can PM the info to me.

Thanks up front!


----------



## boonie2

This ought to be FUN , Looking forward to it


----------



## Anqt31

I can't wait


----------



## nategr8ns

I can't wait, but I bet I'm not going to win








I'm going to guess that I can get at least 2.7 on stock


----------



## Anqt31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


I can't wait, but I bet I'm not going to win








I'm going to guess that I can get at least 2.7 on stock











Don't worry!! I can only get like 2.8 or so on stock... If you get 2.7, you've beaten me


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


Don't worry!! I can only get like 2.8 or so on stock... If you get 2.7, you've beaten me










Guys, don't worry I know for sure I can get 3000mhz on stock cooling (1.34volts)









Can I go higher? We shall see


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hmmm... maybe we should require S&M as an OC stability validation in this contest...
















Muhahahahahaha


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Hmmm... maybe we should require S&M as an OC stability validation in this contest...
















Muhahahahahaha


Joe, how dare you insult me like that


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Joe, how dare you insult me like that










Moi? Insult you? Huh?


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


Don't worry!! I can only get like 2.8 or so on stock... If you get 2.7, you've beaten me










last time I checked 2.8 was higher than 2.7









jeez thinker, thats insane! what about with higher voltage?
I'm jealous


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
jeez thinker, thats insane! what about with higher voltage?

Nate, we'll all find out when the contest begins









On a suicide run, I was able to get a CPU-Z screenshot at 3200mhz at 1.5volts. I didn't try any stability testing so I'm not sure if that was stable or not but I doubt it was.


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Hey guys!!

Whats happenin


----------



## nategr8ns

wow... 3200mhz...
these things come with great cooling, thats for sure...


----------



## iandroo888

damn. those people with the LCB*E stepping going to win this competition. run lower voltage higher clocks.


----------



## nategr8ns

i have an lcb93 and still can't clock well


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
damn. those people with the LCB*E stepping going to win this competition. run lower voltage higher clocks.

Oh, does that bother you?









I have a feeling it will be more than just what stepping batch your CPU comes from that will determine who wins this contest.


----------



## iandroo888

yeah kinda does bother me. like for example.. pioneer's opty does like.. 1.25 vcore for like 2.8ghz... or something.. hecka less heat. i gotta push like 1.45 to get to 2.8 - 2.9 T_T


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Run what ya brung, brotha. That's the name of the game.









BTW, @ nate: Do you think I deserve some credit for thlnk3r's awesome Opty's awesomeness? After all, his chip used to belong to me. Purely by chance, that one-in-a-million chip wound up in his hands after one of our trades.









Home invasion robbery, man...


----------



## Anqt31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Run what ya brung, brotha. That's the name of the game.









BTW, @ nate: Do you think I deserve some credit for thlnk3r's awesome Opty's awesomeness? After all, his chip used to belong to me. Purely by chance, that one-in-a-million chip wound up in his hands after one of our trades.









Home invasion robbery, man...


Lol, I agree chip batch doesn't matter... Extreme Overclocking takes "finese" and "skill" and "talent".... which of course I have (j/k)









@joe, robbery isn't against the rules


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


Lol, I agree chip batch doesn't matter... Extreme Overclocking takes "finese" and "skill" and "talent".... which of course I have (j/k)









*@joe, robbery isn't against the rules







*


What the..?

Anqt!

Did you get a copy of the rules package somehow?!?









Oh wait.

(Digs around at office keyboard... scans for keylogger... hidden camera...)


----------



## iandroo888

also. advantages of having cooler weather (upper north or east coast) helps as well.

i live in an oven T_T

*edit*

hah. no need for that "low-tech stuff".. its all about xray vision


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Meh, winning isn't the point of this exercise...

I'm in this to have fun.


----------



## iandroo888

lol i cant be in this until its winter haha


----------



## nategr8ns

whats the rule about running a conveyor belt from outside in the snow to our stock coolers?
or better yet, burying our computers in the snow (parts insulated of course







)


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


i have an lcb93 and still can't clock well










Your mileage will vary of course.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


also. advantages of having cooler weather (upper north or east coast) helps as well.

i live in an oven T_T

*edit*

hah. no need for that "low-tech stuff".. its all about xray vision










Being in the north east does not make you necessarily cooler. Granted, yes, today I am only 79Âº F. Yesterday, we were 93Âº F, and tomorrow is supposed to be the high 80s.

The advantage may lie in who has control over their ambients (read: air conditioning) and those who have the stones to push the processor past its stops (read: nutjobs).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


whats the rule about running a conveyor belt from outside in the snow to our stock coolers?
or better yet, burying our computers in the snow (parts insulated of course







)


Wouldn't you like to know?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Pssst... Sub-Zero...

(No leaks or hints about the rules. Scorpion wishes it to be so for now.)


----------



## Blitz6804

I have said nothing, and will continue to do so.

What kind of person you take me for? Johnny Cage?


----------



## Blitz6804

Or maybe Kano.

And hey, check it out: Joe has 4 GP!










(That is, gigaposts. Think RAM. *Notices no laughter.* I give up. *Sigh.*)


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Your mileage will vary of course.

Being in the north east does not make you necessarily cooler. Granted, yes, today I am only 79Âº F. Yesterday, we were 93Âº F, and tomorrow is supposed to be the high 80s.

The advantage may lie in who has control over their ambients (read: air conditioning) and those who have the stones to push the processor past its stops (read: nutjobs).

Wouldn't you like to know?

60*F here today









I love temperate climates


----------



## Blitz6804

We will see what happens come dead of winter.

I wonder how well the PC would run when it is -15Âº C outside? I know I wont want to stand out there with it (-40Âº C wind chills) but imagine the load temps! As long as it doesn't snow on it; I love snow, I am sure the PC will not.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Wouldn't you like to know?

erm... yes, I do


----------



## Brandon1337

I have a 939 Amd Athlon 4000+ Single core.


----------



## SerenityKill3r

^^ Bottleneck Much??









You should upgrade that CPU man...


----------



## nategr8ns

only as long as he stays 939









edit: he also may be holding out until the Nehalem and G34 systems to be out too, I know I am


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Of course...or you could come over to the dark side


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Brandon1337*


I have a 939 Amd Athlon 4000+ Single core.


If you'd like to join up, get a screenshot of your CPU-Z validation or post a validation link. We'd be happy to have you; we have cookies!

Ignore SerenityKill3r; he knows not what he is professing.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


We will see what happens come dead of winter.

I wonder how well the PC would run when it is -15Âº C outside? I know I wont want to stand out there with it (-40Âº C wind chills) but imagine the load temps! As long as it doesn't snow on it; I love snow, I am sure the PC will not.


bury it in a snow bank n crank it up Blitz







should be good for at least 3.5


----------



## boonie2

whens this contest going to start? have to get out my 4200 for suicide run tho cant gamble with my 175 golden girl {speaking of golden girl , can I get this 175 added to the roster ?} screen in profile


----------



## Blitz6804

I am a little worried about the dual specters of moisture and condensation.

Knowing my luck, I am cold bugged anyway.


----------



## boonie2

Blitz how do you like that Hitachi ? thinking about 1 myself have to decide tonight


----------



## Blitz6804

To quote myself:

http://www.overclock.net/4205319-post5717.html


----------



## boonie2

oops


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I get a kick out some of our dudes having spiffy new avatars!

boonster, for some reason, yours reminds me of an anime series (Neon Genesis Evangelion). I'm not saying that's what yours is from; it's just evocative of NGE.

Sub-Zero, taking a cue from Scorps, aren't you?









Serenity, that looks like your third new avatar in as many days! Looks good, too!


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Serenity, that looks like your third new avatar in as many days! Looks good, too!


I took Blitz's advice and used a red gradient instead of a grey gradient, to signify ATi too









Hopefully I've finished changing now


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I get a kick out some of our dudes having spiffy new avatars!

boonster, for some reason, yours reminds me of an anime series (Neon Genesis Evangelion). I'm not saying that's what yours is from; it's just evocative of NGE.

Sub-Zero, taking a cue from Scorps, aren't you?









Serenity, that looks like your third new avatar in as many days! Looks good, too!


Mine is thru the courtesy of our friend Nate {quite talented}







.... update - just ordered the WD 6400AAKS 640GB HARDRIVE - $109 with 5yr warr.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well just to let you guys know, I'm here







. Not like you were waiting or nothing.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz*

The advantage may lie in who has control over their ambients (read: air conditioning)* and those who have the stones to push the processor past its stops (read: nutjobs).*


Who, me?







....guys I'll be pushing my Opteron WAY past its limits. I'm talking 1.65v on stock cooling and probably 95-100*C load temps







.

And yes....it requires 1.26v to reach 2.8GHz for me. So we'll see what happens.


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


Mine is thru the courtesy of our friend Nate {quite talented}







.... update - just ordered the WD 6400AAKS 640GB HARDRIVE - $109 with 5yr warr.










When is it arriving??

I'm thinking of getting this drive...supposed to be super-fast


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Oh yes. I agree, boon-man: Our boy nate really has got some talent with them purty digital pictures.









Hope them new HDDs treat you well, too!


----------



## boonie2

Serenity , been searching and researching hardrives for a week now , these seem to be the best bang for the buck , and very fast ... just ordered from newegg , 3 business day delivery so im thinking maybe monday depending on their processing time


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Can anyone suggest a good anime to me??

I've never really watched anime..I like futuristic/sci-fi...I'd like something thats currently on, and not too far into the story


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
Serenity , been searching and researching hardrives for a week now , these seem to be the best bang for the buck , and very fast ... just ordered from newegg , 3 business day delivery so im thinking maybe monday depending on their processing time

Would you be able to post your opinions on it when you get it??







pretty please


----------



## boonie2

sure , I googled reviews for it , and after looking thru those and toms hardware comparisions decided to jump on it


----------



## Blitz6804

Buy Full Metal Panic. Alternatively, consider Bubblegum Crisis, Tokyo 2040.


----------



## boonie2

???


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
???

??


----------



## Blitz6804

(Regards Serenity's request for anime series. Also good (if you want a romantic comedy element tossed in) is Hyperspace Nadesco.)


----------



## Iceman0803

@ Serenity Killer: The already mentioned Neon Genesis (Toastmistress'







suggestion) is a good anime series as is Cowboy Bebop. Check out Akira as well.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Ah yes....the "Toastmistress". I haven't forgotten







.


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Ah yes....the "Toastmistress". I haven't forgotten







.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Where is the toastmistress? Haven't seen that person around for a while tonight......


----------



## thlnk3r

Speaking of anime nothing amounts up to the Macros Saga aka Robotech


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Speaking of anime nothing amounts up to the Macros Saga aka Robotech










Macross Plus....awesome movie. The best version is the sub-titled original. The American version has a good 30 minutes cut out of it.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Macross Plus....awesome movie. The best version is the sub-titled original. The American version has a good 30 minutes cut out of it.


Guardian, I recently got a hold of the first 36 episodes so I've been sort of watching them...good stuff


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Guardian, I recently got a hold of the first 36 episodes so I've been sort of watching them...good stuff









ah, watching the actual episodes. Yeah it's been sometime since I seen those. SDF-1!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Ooh! I remember Macross!

Skull Leader! Yes!


----------



## GuardianOdin

That's Roy Folker mister! Fly'in high in Valkyrie 1


----------



## txtmstrjoe

That was such a sexy bird, that VF-1S, with the Jolly Roger on the tail fins, the four cannons on the head... I loved the armored version that Rick Hunter flew (I forgot his original Japanese name) later in the series.

I was so sad when Roy Fokker (Big Brother) died.









Ooh, and Lisa Hayes (Misa Hayase)... hubba hubba...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
That was such a sexy bird, that VF-1S, with the Jolly Roger on the tail fins, the four cannons on the head... I loved the armored version that Rick Hunter flew (I forgot his original Japanese name) later in the series.

Ooh, and Lisa Hayes (Misa Hayase)... hubba hubba...

Please take note he's ignoring our "toastmistress" comments


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Huh? Wut?

Who's ignoring what now?


----------



## GuardianOdin

who what where?.....did someone say something Joe? My SPEAKERS must be to low....







These dang Pioneer due hickey's

*EDIT:* That's right, I said due hickey's


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


who what where?.....did someone say something Joe? My SPEAKERS must be to low....







These dang Pioneer due hickey's

*EDIT:* That's right, I said due hickey's


See you just need to get some Pioneer speakers, and you'll be able to hear again!

EDIT:
You must run Sony's right now







. I'm sorry







.


----------



## nategr8ns

OK I got lost when you started talking about anime...
I don't know if this quite qualifies as anime, but the movie Paprika was amazing, and Tokyo Godfathers by the same writer was also very good.
And I learned japanese by watching Kiki's delivery service and Totoro when I was like 2 or 3, but I don't remember it at all







(Princess Mononoke from the same writer as Kiki's and Totoro was very good)


----------



## 98uk

I'm not greatly knowledgeable about Athlons, i'm more of an Intel guy myself, but my brother has a 3500+ which needs a good seeing to.

I see it's a little different to the old C2D overclocking, are there any good guides knocking about and what sort of speeds am i going to be able to squeeze out of this chip?

It's currently running this:

Antec 900
Athlon 64 3500+ (stock cooling)
Asus M2N4-SLI
2gb DDR2
8800gts 320mb
Audigy 2
Vista Business 32bit


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


OK I got lost when you started talking about anime...
I don't know if this quite qualifies as anime, but the movie Paprika was amazing, and Tokyo Godfathers by the same writer was also very good.
And I learned japanese by watching Kiki's delivery service and Totoro *when I was like 2 or 3,* but I don't remember it at all







(Princess Mononoke from the same writer as Kiki's and Totoro was very good)


I feel so old now than you :swearing: bah!


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alex98uk*


I'm not greatly knowledgeable about Athlons, i'm more of an Intel guy myself, but my brother has a 3500+ which needs a good seeing to.

I see it's a little different to the old C2D overclocking, are there any good guides knocking about and what sort of speeds am i going to be able to squeeze out of this chip?

It's currently running this:

Antec 900
Athlon 64 3500+ (stock cooling)
Asus M2N4-SLI
2gb DDR2
8800gts 320mb
Audigy 2
Vista Business 32bit


could you double check to make sure its DDR2? I'm pretty sure there were no 939 motherboards with DDR2, but I could be wrong.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


I feel so old now than you :swearing: bah!


----------



## 98uk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


could you double check to make sure its DDR2? I'm pretty sure there were no 939 motherboards with DDR2, but I could be wrong


It's definitely DDR2 on an AM2 board.

Here are the specs from Asus's site:

- Support AMDÂ® Socket AM2 CPU
- NVIDIAÂ® nForce 500 SLI Technology
- Dual channel DDR2 800
- ASUS Q-Connector
- ASUS CrashFree BIOS 3


----------



## nategr8ns

sorry... I thought it was a 939 board


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Huh? Wut?

Who's ignoring what now?










I could be mistaken but, I believe he is referring to.....

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Iceman0803* 
@ Serenity Killer: The already mentioned Neon Genesis (*Toastmistress'







suggestion*) is a good anime series as is Cowboy Bebop. Check out Akira as well.

and

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Ah yes....the "Toastmistress". I haven't forgotten







.


----------



## 98uk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 







sorry... I thought it was a 939 board









Oh wait, my bad. AM2 is a socket type.... so why am i in a 939 thread lol. I'll be off now


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Socket 939 Club members, here's a status update for our latest contest: Your officers have approved the rules package. We are now in the process of deciding the start date for the contest.

Once this is decided, one of the officers will formally announce the contest here and give everyone all the necessary details.

It's almost go-time, people!


----------



## nategr8ns

so are you allowed to answer questions about the rules now?








because I would like to know if all coolers that come with a processor are considered a stock cooler, to be used with any processor


----------



## txtmstrjoe

No, no questions can be answered yet. Not until the rules have been released.

We're keeping everything under wraps until everything is ready, in the interest of fairness.

In the interest of being completely transparent here, though I know the rules, I have NOT done any preparations whatsoever when it comes to this contest. I don't even have the rig I'll be using ready yet (it will not be the sig rig, for sure). Obviously, I will be competing in this fun contest, but I am honor bound to not take advantage of my position of privilege. We tried very hard to write the rules so that the playing field is as level as possible, and the Club officers who will be competing will keep that field level as well.


----------



## Blitz6804

And if he cheats, we all have permission to stab him. *Evil grin*

Hey, if there is an evil Joe, why not an evil Blitz? (Read: sober = evil)


----------



## Blitz6804

FOR THE RECORD:

I am now the proud owner of a Diamond RADEON HD 3850.

But I still do not have the motherboard to try it out on. Boo!


----------



## boonie2

Whats the time limit on the contest ?? {better start practicing my "Tweaks"}


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Guys i have one question. What is that thing that i heard when i first overclocked my 3700 to keep ram ratio with CPU 1:1?


----------



## Mike-O

My mobo seems to have gone to a better place ( more details here: http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...t-posting.html )and I need a new one now..

I ain't giving up 939 yet, so help a brother out.


----------



## nategr8ns

either an ASUS SLI board or a DFI UT board is where its at with 939.


----------



## Mike-O

SLI not needed. Should have mentioned it in the first place.









I'm going to buy a HD4850, so the board should play nicely with it.

So... DFI you say..


----------



## nategr8ns

Check out the DFI Crossfire board, I think it has a CF3200 or something like that for a NB.
I'm not sure what the CF performance is like though...


----------



## Futuredrifter

It runs at 16x/16x when using crossfire. The only thing bad with this board is the crappy ULi M1575 raid controller, DFI was terrible with supporting this and never planned to fix it. I run my raid off of the Sil 3114 fine though, but it's 1.5gb/s raid.


----------



## Blitz6804

Joe recently found one for 1/3 of the FMV. Pity he would not sell it to me. (-_-)

I am however getting soon an Abit AT8-32x (should be here tomorrow) and I will let you know what I think of that. Also, I think that one 4850 might be a little expensive for what you get, and in my opinion, I think you are better served saving $40 and getting a pair of the 38xx series. (Granted, 1680x1050 isn't a terrible resolution, so unless you are trying to play Crysis on Very High, I would think the 4850 could handle it.)


----------



## Mike-O

Report in tomorrow then









I want the 4850 for it's 7.1 output capability through DVI. I already have a HDMI cable to my TV, all I need is sound now.


----------



## Blitz6804

Ah, gotcha. I have my PC hooked up via the analog ports on my X-Fi, and every time I plug the PC into a TV, Catalyst politely reminds me that its DVI-out does not carry audio when using HDMI. No duh! I did not know until now that they added that feature on the 48xx series.


----------



## Anqt31

Um, is our contest a dual core only or is it single core and dual core?


----------



## Mike-O

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Ah, gotcha. I have my PC hooked up via the analog ports on my X-Fi, and every time I plug the PC into a TV, Catalyst politely reminds me that its DVI-out does not carry audio when using HDMI. No duh! I did not know until now that they added that feature on the 48xx series.


The 38xx series have 5.1 out via DVI. Maybe it's because you have AGP?


----------



## Blitz6804

Or because I never connected some audio connector or something. All I know is whenever I put a DVI/HDMI adapter, it finds it necessary to remind me that it wont carry audio.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er* 
Guys i have one question. What is that thing that i heard when i first overclocked my 3700 to keep ram ratio with CPU 1:1?

Zealotkiller, I'm not sure I understand your question. Can you elaborate more for us?

Thank you


----------



## pioneerisloud

Agreed with thlnk3r







. What's the question that's being asked exactly?


----------



## nategr8ns

I think he's saying that when he first started overclocking, somebody told him to keep his RAM on a 1:1 divider (or 1:1 RAM Ratio).
He's asking what that means and why he's doing it (If I'm understanding correctly)

Basically you do that to keep your RAM speed at your FSB speed, which most of us don't actually do. Since our memory usually won't go at our FSB speed, we will give it a smaller divider so that it will run _slower_ than our FSB, letting us get higher FSB speeds and higher CPU speeds.


----------



## Blitz6804

People might have been giving him static saying he couldn't do it; I do not know.

As to why you would want to run 1:1; bandwidth will usually take a hit if you are running async to your CPU; both Pioneer and I have tested this. In my case, CPU=RAM=250 is a bandwidth of just under 8000 MB/s. CPU=208, RAM=250 is a bandwidth of just over 6000 MB/s. (Dual channel mode for both tests obviously.) Only when you are running 1:1 will you get close to the hypothetical speed. In the case of DDR 500, that is PC 4000, so dual channel is 8000 MB/s.

If you cannot run 1:1, some ratios are better than others. I think Pio did a test on this; 166:200 was better than 183:200 for example.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


People might have been giving him static saying he couldn't do it; I do not know.

As to why you would want to run 1:1; bandwidth will usually take a hit if you are running async to your CPU; both Pioneer and I have tested this. In my case, CPU=RAM=250 is a bandwidth of just under 8000 MB/s. CPU=208, RAM=250 is a bandwidth of just over 6000 MB/s. (Dual channel mode for both tests obviously.) Only when you are running 1:1 will you get close to the hypothetical speed. In the case of DDR 500, that is PC 4000, so dual channel is 8000 MB/s.

If you cannot run 1:1, some ratios are better than others. I think Pio did a test on this; 166:200 was better than 183:200 for example.


Yes I tried the 166 divider with 300 HT clock, and that gave me a better bandwidth (roughly 8500ish???).


----------



## txtmstrjoe

RAM dividers have acquired a kind of maligned reputation, perhaps.

One essential fact to remember is that, no matter what HTT Clock : RAM Clock ratio you set, *the RAM is ALWAYS running on a divider*. Even if the HTT Clock and the RAM are running synchronously, they are running on a divider (1:1 is still a ratio, by definition).

The primary function of a RAM divider when it comes to overclocking your system is to allow your CPU frequency to scale higher than your RAM's maximum stable frequency. Since the CPU speed is defined by "HTT Clock x CPU Multiplier = CPU Freq," and given the almost universally prevalent fact that CPUs can run faster than the RAM ever could, it is therefore necessary to "disconnect" the RAM clock from the HTT (reference) Clock (and therefore, the CPU clock as well).

Before my old Patriot RAM guinea pigs went to silicon heaven not too long ago, I was testing the effects of various RAM settings (divider settings, timings, etc.) on bandwidth and performance. This is an experiment that I will return to very soon, if only to provide some relatively definitive trends in how changes in settings affect RAM (and overall system) performance.

For sure, though, the point I want to reiterate is: *RAM dividers are NOT your enemies; they are your friends*.


----------



## Blitz6804

*Gets stabbed in the neck by a RAM divider.*

Joe! You -- *coughs up blood* -- lied to me!

*Dies.*


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Moi? Lied to you?

Negative!

If I did, you should have seen it coming, what, with your superior powers and mad ninja skills.

In fact, I'd dare say that you should have been able to *stop me cold*.


----------



## nategr8ns

rofl... cold...
I get it


----------



## alexgheseger

Upgrade me in the roster to an opty 175 please







.

click me

Oh, and just to let everyone know, I am one of the new marketplace moderators, so if some fool is bashing on your for sale/wanted thread, just fire me a PM, and i'll nuke the posts.


----------



## Blitz6804

*Ressurects.*

Sweet alexgheseger; we welcome the poppin' fresh Opty. Now if only you can supplant the QX from SC...

Is it possible for you to get my video card to sell faster? *Chuckles.*

And Joe... do not tell any more jokes; they make our heads hurt.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Alex! A belated *KUDOS* to you! I actually meant to congratulate you too when the announcements were made, but, um, my fear for thlnk3r (aka Cobra Commander) cowed me into forgetfulness.

That Opteron 175 sure has a familiar feel to it, too...










Oh, and Sub-Zero, I would have thought you would like my sense of humor. There's a reason some people call me *Joe COOL*.


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Hey guys,

I'm going to Berlin in like, 5 days









Sorry, had to vent some excitement


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Have a good time in Berlin, SK!

And if you see a famous polar bear whilst over there, please tell him his human counterpart Sub-Zero is keeping things on ice around here.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Oh, and Sub-Zero, I would have thought you would like my sense of humor. There's a reason some people call me *Joe COOL*.




























Quote:


Originally Posted by *SerenityKill3r* 
Hey guys,

I'm going to Berlin in like, 5 days









Sorry, had to vent some excitement









I posted on your thread a little while ago









Joe... on ice...


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SerenityKill3r* 
Hey guys,

I'm going to Berlin in like, 5 days









Sorry, had to vent some excitement









Or maybe to buy the parts for your rig...

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Have a good time in Berlin, SK!

And if you see a famous polar bear whilst over there, please tell him his human counterpart Sub-Zero is keeping things on ice around here.









What polar bear?


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Wow you guys are the best.
I am saying this because i had my ram @166 and with my overclock my cpu to 2.8 for summer my ram goes to 200 but ration cpu with ram is not 1:1. I dont have good ram but i tried to leave my ram @ 200 which is default and with the FPS @ 255 ram is @ 255 too. It stable and its 1:1 now. Now i tested crysis with my old settings and i got 30fps @ high resolution 1280^1024, and when i did the same with new settings i get 40fps which is a huge jump. I never though ram can do so much in a s939.


----------



## Blitz6804

You have DDR 500 RAM (provided the signature is right); how is that not good RAM? Granted, yes, it is A-Data and not like OCZ or something, but it really matters on the actual memory manufacturer.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er* 
Wow you guys are the best.
I am saying this because i had my ram @166 and with my overclock my cpu to 2.8 for summer my ram goes to 200 but ration cpu with ram is not 1:1. I dont have good ram but i tried to leave my ram @ 200 which is default and with the FPS @ 255 ram is @ 255 too. It stable and its 1:1 now. Now i tested crysis with my old settings and i got 30fps @ high resolution 1280^1024, and when i did the same with new settings i get 40fps which is a huge jump. I never though ram can do so much in a s939.

so you're running your 500mhz memory at 510mhz, congratulations!
seriously, your divider had dropped your memory to 400mhz stock (200mhz with a 1:1 divider is 400mhz memory)


----------



## GuardianOdin

Hey guys, sorry work is busy tonight. I'm trying to get away from the desk but customers won't stop coming in. ....bah!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

G.O., perhaps you should be like the cops and command all customers to *FREEZE*, and to stop coming in for at least a little while!

(Nyuk nyuk nyuk)


----------



## Blitz6804

Okay... show of hands: who would like to put Joe's humor on ice? Perhaps he should just learn to chill? More jokes like that would likely get a frosty reception. On the other hand, perhaps it is better this way: he won't go down in flames.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Okay... show of hands: who would like to put Joe's humor on ice? Perhaps he should just learn to chill? More jokes like that would likely get a frosty reception. On the other hand, perhaps it is better this way: he won't go down in flames.











Well played, my cold-hearted nemesis!


----------



## GuardianOdin

LoL......niiiiiice


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
LoL......n*iiiiiice*

Look!

G.O.'s doing it now!


----------



## pioneerisloud

I'm hungry, time to go get something out of the *ice*box.









It just had to be my turn







.

EDIT:
Seriously though, I am hungry







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Whatever you do, don't do what you did the other week, when you got yourself some spoiled food from the *freezer*. You might get food poisoning again, get a fever, and suffer through some bad *chills*.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Whatever you do, don't do what you did the other week, when you got yourself some spoiled food from the *freezer*. You might get food poisoning again, get a fever, and suffer through some bad *chills*.


I know...that was one *cold* time for me







.


----------



## nategr8ns

G.O., what do you do?
stupid customers -.-


----------



## Blitz6804

To switch targets:

Boy Joe... you are really *heating* things up. I would say we are all on *fire* tonight. I really had to *get over here* before the fun was done. Though, you likely now all see me as a *flaming* moron. I blame the lack of sleep causing me to be akin to the *undead*. I recommend staying away from Pioneer and GuardianOdin, lest not our proverbial geese get *cooked*.

Eh, reaching for it or not, I thought some of my jokes were pretty *godly*. Quite *electrifying* in fact. *Prods Iandroo888.*

Oh well, worst case, I just gotta augment my joke-telling strength a bit. Maybe some performance-enhancing *hydraulics* eh Nate?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


G.O., what do you do?
stupid customers -.-


motel...and I hate it.

In regards to reservations..........make them ahead of time!!!!!!

Customer: What do you mean you have no rooms [email protected]!!!

Me: We are booked and have been for months.

Customer: Should I call next time?

Me:.....duh


----------



## nategr8ns

I think it's time to stop the MK puns now. That post just FINISHED IT!

(Insert Koin to Continue)

edit: that stinks G.O.
Maybe when they decide to make a Mortal Kombat vs. Marvel Universe, they'll call you








or maybe the next MK vs. DC?


----------



## Blitz6804

Ever graced by any Furcons in your neighborhood? They are always good for a hoot.

Not at all Nate; I have a pocket full of kuarters.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Ever graced by any Furcons in your neighborhood? They are always good for a hoot.

Not at all Nate; I have a pocket full of kuarters.


nope furries here...ewwww, but I believe we have a law against that


----------



## nategr8ns

wait... what?

and what did they do to Jax?!?!?!?!?


----------



## Blitz6804

I dunno. I think he looks pretty cool.

(Remember kiddies, hotlinking images is bad form!)


----------



## pioneerisloud

Alrighty guys, I have the opportunity to change my A8N32-SLI Deluxe for an A8R-MVP. Please take note this is NOT the 32x crossfire board, this is the 16x board. So in crossfire mode it'd only be 8x 8x.

Should I go for it? Or should I just stick with my current board? Also is this a FAIR TRADE for both of the members involved? I'm hoping I can go crossfire 4850's with the new board and not lose TOO much performance.

Thoughts? Opinions? Other ideas (or trade ideas cough joe I know you have the 32x model cough)?


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I dunno. I think he looks pretty cool.

(Remember kiddies, hotlinking images is bad form!)

he looks like a stupid rapper, and his arms are flesh! (I'm talking about the second picture)
but Jax just isn't Jax without purple pants, Am I right?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Alrighty guys, I have the opportunity to change my A8N32-SLI Deluxe for an A8R-MVP. Please take note this is NOT the 32x crossfire board, this is the 16x board. So in crossfire mode it'd only be 8x 8x.

Should I go for it? Or should I just stick with my current board? Also is this a FAIR TRADE for both of the members involved? I'm hoping I can go crossfire 4850's with the new board and not lose TOO much performance.

Thoughts? Opinions? Other ideas (or trade ideas cough joe I know you have the 32x model cough)?

I think the 32x is worth more because: A. the NF4 boards are more expensive (I think) and B. it has twice as many PCI-E lanes.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Alrighty guys, I have the opportunity to change my A8N32-SLI Deluxe for an A8R-MVP. Please take note this is NOT the 32x crossfire board, this is the 16x board. So in crossfire mode it'd only be 8x 8x.

Should I go for it? Or should I just stick with my current board? Also is this a FAIR TRADE for both of the members involved? I'm hoping I can go crossfire 4850's with the new board and not lose TOO much performance.

Thoughts? Opinions? Other ideas (or trade ideas cough joe I know you have the 32x model cough)?

Well; some factors to consider:

* 2x8 is slower than 2x16.
* If you want SLI, you must buy one card; crossfire needs two.
* Might be cheaper to just get a 4870x2 with your present board.
* You'll be rid of nF4, which as Joe could tell you, is a little picky with HDDs.
* You'll be rid of nVidia, which I could tell you, is a little picky with driver support.
* I do not think the exchange is equitable as Nate already suggested.
* Iandroo888 has both boards (unless I am mistaken), shoot him a PM.
* Also see: http://techreport.com/articles.x/9328/1

As to Nate; yeah, purple has always been his thing. In "rapper mode," he looks like a beefier Scorpion. The first picture (his SpecOps) was cool though.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

pio, I would NOT recommend the trade at all. The A8R-MVP is not nearly as good an overclocker as your A8N32-SLI Deluxe. ATI's chipsets back in the S939 era are not comparable to the nForce4 series at all in terms of overclockability; even at their peak with the Xpress3200 chipset, ATI was just a couple of steps behind nForce4.

If it was a swap between an A8N32-SLI Deluxe and an A8R32-MVP Deluxe, that would be a better trade; but your board for the older Xpress200 chipset board A8R-MVP? Bad move, in my opinion.

I think you'll ultimately be unhappy and might likely regret the trade decision if you pull the trigger on this one.


----------



## nategr8ns

Guess what I found out watching E3 today (recorded it to fast-forward through commercials):

MK vs. DC is only coming to 360 and ps3!!! GAH!


----------



## Blitz6804

I dunno; to me, that sounds like most fighting games.

While I have both, I do not think I will buy it for either; the idea of a low-violence Mortal Kombat does not appeal to me, and I always hated DC Comics.


----------



## nategr8ns

low violence? Don't worry, the MK characters can stll kill (I think), but the DC characters can't.

does this sound like a good deal? I don't know anything about the PSP market:

Quote:



The GodFather
Grand Theft Auto (2 of them)
RengokuII
Socom Fire Team Bravo 2
On the MemStick I have:
Final Fantasy VII
Dragonball Z shin Budokai 2
I think thats it...
Also included:
Softcase
Hard Case
2GB memory card
Custom Firmware
Car charger
AC adapter
USB sync/charger in 1 thing
I think thats it.
$175 all of it is yours


----------



## Blitz6804

Its really not a bad deal at all; the PSP is $150, the memstick is $40, games are $40 (all-new). The question is how much you are going to play it.

Oh, and for the record, avoid Armored Core: Formula Front; it kinda sucks a big one.


----------



## nategr8ns

thats a game?

I think I'll probably start looking for a DS though, unless I get a really good deal on a PSP, because of the games (and the fact that I won't really get movies/music on my PSP)


----------



## Blitz6804

I have both.

For graphics: PSP
For multifunction: PSP*
For the games library: DS
For internet play: DS
For durability: DS
For battery life: DS
For playing in poor lighting: PSP

If you get a PSP, I recommend Popolocrois and the two Grand Theft Autos (Liberty City Stories and Vice City Stories). It should be noted that the GTAs are also ported on the PS2. Ridge Racer is better on the PSP than the DS. I would recommend avoiding Me and My Katamari; the controls suck versus the consoles. Further, avoid Ace Combat X for the same reason. If you want to do endless, mindless, hack-and-slash, Untold Legends: Brotherhood of the Blade is the way to go. It should be noted that the sequel to this is on the PS3, but I think I prefer the PSP title.

If you get a DS, I recommend Kirby Squeak Squad, Mario Kart DS, New Super Mario Brothers, and Warioware Touched. Kirby/NSMB are good old-fashioned platformers, the likes of which have been too rare in recent years. Mario Kart DS is my favorite Mario Kart of all time I think (yes, edging out the Wii) with a decent WiFi connect. As for Warioware; I have heard it called "video game crack." It is a love/hate thing.

I would recommend avoiding Guitar Hero On Tour. I own every Guitar Hero made, as well as RockBand, and I can say that this has to be the worst one. It was a novel concept, but the whole thing seems sluggish and blocky; clearly the DS cannot provide enough muscle to run it well. Further, if you have an original DS, you must change adapters for the grip, which is designed to be DS Lite from the start. Further, avoid SimCity DS, which is a DS adaptation of SimCity 3000. Not a very good one either.

Age of Empires, while a slight disappointment, is still a playable game. Picture the love child of Fire Emblem and Age of Empires II: The Age of Kings. There you go. Another dissapointing, but playable game, is Metroid Prime: Hunters. Most original DSes came with a free demo version, so it should speak for itself. Picture a blocky version of Metroid Prime with jerkier controls and there you go.

*For one, the new PSPs have Skype; I wanna upgrade but don't have the cash. For another, they can play MP3s, MP4s, and can stream content from a PS3.


----------



## nategr8ns

I bet the cell-phone version of guitar hero beats out the DS version at worste GH game.
only three notes, sluggish, and you can only have 2 songs downloaded at once (you can play any songs at any time, you just have to download it if it isn't one of the two recent previously played songs).
luckily I found a review before I bought it.

I think I'm going to look for a DS lite, as I don't Skype or own a PS3.

for games I will probably get most of the mario games (new super mario bros, 64, kart), that wario game, and contra (I'm currently playing contra III, still on the second level (the one thats bird's-eye camera).
I'm really no good at contra...)

and what's this you say about playing in bad lighting? does that mean that the DS screen reflects light that gets in the way of the visuals, or that its hard to see?
I wonder if there's any sort of worm-light type thing for it? (I have never owned any gaming platform other than PC, just played my friends', my cousins (one boy one girl) have gameboy colors, advanced, SPs, and the boy has a DS (although the other cousin may have one by now).
slightly off topic: Pio and Froggy, is there a Barney's anywhere near you?


----------



## Blitz6804

The DS Lite is fine. The original DS only had one light setting, which at times, might be too dark or too bright. The DS lite has one that is slightly brighter, as well as one that is much brighter, and one that is slightly dimmer.

Mario 64 is alright, but it is not the N64 version; they made a lot of dumb changes to "freshen it up" so to speak. The mini games are a nice addition though.


----------



## nategr8ns

so you're saying it's not great?
maybe not worth it then...

any other racers for the DS?


----------



## Blitz6804

Oh, Mario Kart is great. I was only complaining about Mario 64. I have heard Diddy Kong Racing is not a bad port though; I have not tried it, I could not tell you.

Remember also that the DS can play every Gameboy Advanced title.

Ridge Racer on the other hand was a massive disappointment; much better on the PSP. If you have the original on the PSX, do not bother; it is just a port.


----------



## nategr8ns

hmm... what are some good pokemon games? I haven't played any since like pokemon blue which I borrowed from my neighbor for a month (along with his GB color).
are the new ones any good?

edit: I just noticed the the GH game only has 4 fret buttons








no thanks, the hardest part is the fifth fret


----------



## Blitz6804

I have one from almost every generation:

Blue, Yellow, Silver, Crystal, Sapphire, and Diamond. (I am missing from the Fire Red / Leaf Green era, between Sapphire and Diamond.)

I have to say of all, my favorite is likely Sapphire, with Silver a close second. As for Diamond, it is hard to get into. With Silver, quite often I would play for 8-12 hours straight finding it hard to put it down. With Diamond, I find it hard to even pick it up; I do not know if it is because of slow plot or my advancing age, but it just is not the same.

(Sapphire / Ruby, Fire Red / Leaf Green, and Diamond / Pearl will all work with your system.)


----------



## nategr8ns

well since gameboy and GB advance cartridges are the same shape, shouldn't GB color games fit into the DS?
and you seem like a collector of sorts, I'm surprised you didn't get your hands on pokemon green







(Only released in asia I beleive)


----------



## Anqt31

Sapphire is definately the best!


----------



## nategr8ns

Current Nintendo Wishlist:
Nintendo DS Lite (cobalt preferred, but white/black/red are all good too







)
New Super Mario Bros
Mario Kart DS
Contra IV
Pokemon Sapphire or something newer
Maybe something a little more violent for when I'm pissed off?









woah, google for best ds games I got to a gamespot page:
is chrono trigger DS any good? epic SNES game.

any good arcade-esk games? like geometry wars or something


----------



## Blitz6804

That is correct; Green was considered boring compared to Red however. Thus, they tidied up the code and made Blue. This is why cheats you can do on Red do not match those on Blue, yet all future generations (Silver/Gold, Ruby/Sapphire, et cetera) do have interconnectivity. As I only read English, and some French, I would be incapable of getting Green.

And yes, GB/GBC colors fit fine in a DS. However, the DS lacks the software to play them. This is why I kept my GBA-SP*. One small problem: for games that have a gyroscope in them, it reads everything backward. The SP, like the DS, has the card slot on the bottom. The GB/GBC had the slot up top.

* I have owned a GBP, GBC, GBA-SP, and the DS. I sold the former two and kept the latter two.

Regards your violence comment: Not on Nintendo buddy!


----------



## Anqt31

Ninetendo + Violent =







(I didn't know that it existed)


----------



## nategr8ns

have you seen the new Wii game themed around a Tarantula and a Scorpion? That game looks pretty awesome, but rated M I believe.


----------



## Anqt31

Okay, but still... the best "violent" game ever was Double Dragon. I had that on a 5 1/4" Floppy!


----------



## Blitz6804

There is some violent stuff, but not anything I can think of on the DS.

Do not believe me? Look up "Konker's Bad Fur Day."

To my recollection, it was the first M-rated title on the Nintendo 64. Not to mention that Mortal Kombat 2 and 3 were also M-rated. (1 was T-rated on the SNES due to the dialing down of violence.)

In other news, I am now armed with the Abit. Installing now.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Anqt31* 
Okay, but still... the best "violent" game ever was Double Dragon. I had that on a 5 1/4" Floppy!


Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
There is some violent stuff, but not anything I can think of on the DS.

Do not believe me? Look up "Konker's Bad Fur Day."

To my recollection, it was the first M-rated title on the Nintendo 64. Not to mention that Mortal Kombat 2 and 3 were also M-rated. (1 was T-rated on the SNES due to the dialing down of violence.)

In other news, I am now armed with the Abit. Installing now.

w00t tell us more about the new used motherboard! hows it run? Easy set up (no ram-in-top-orange-slot madness?)? BIOS features?

hehe I love Konker. Fighting giant poo monsters really was entertaining...
(I bought it for a friend off of ebay a year ago or so)

GTA is making a game for the DS, but that won't be here for a long time.

Anqt, I don't know if I'd go telling the world about your 5.25" floppy... seems kind of personal.


----------



## Mike-O

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Or because I never connected some audio connector or something. All I know is whenever I put a DVI/HDMI adapter, it finds it necessary to remind me that it wont carry audio.

You shouldn't have to use a wire for audio. Only nVidia needs wires.









It should take it right from the bus, but maybe it only works with PCI-E.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
In other news, I am now armed with the Abit. Installing now.

Just in time.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Blitz, do tell us your impressions of your "new" AT8 32X!

Its former owner would like to know how well it treats you.









Mike-O, if only shipping wasn't a bit of a difficulty. Hopefully, you can find a good trading/purchasing partner in your quest for a replacement motherboard.

Good luck!


----------



## Blitz6804

Question: Do they make 3-pin molex extension cords? If so, where do I get them?


----------



## Mike-O

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Mike-O, if only shipping wasn't a bit of a difficulty. Hopefully, you can find a good trading/purchasing partner in your quest for a replacement motherboard.

Good luck!










Thanks!

I've found 2 DFI Lanparty mobos. The RDX200 and CFX3200-DR. The CFX3200-DR costs about $50 more than the RDX200.

They both have nice features, but the CFX3200-DR has 3Gb SATA and the RXD200 only has 1.5Gb. Will I notice a big difference from that and is it worth the $50? There are some other differences, but they are not so important.

Anything else I should know about them?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

The DFI LANParty UT CFX3200 is a much more potent motherboard than the RDX200. The difference is in the chipsets. The CFX3200 has the ATi Xpress3200 and is a better overclocking chipset; the older RDX200 is not nearly as accomplished, though the DFI RDX200 is the best model available (compared to boards from ASUS and Sapphire).

Also, the CFX3200 will do 2x 16x Crossfire, the RDX200, only 2x 8x.

Hope this helps!









Blitz, what cables are you asking about? Do you mean the 3-pin fan cables?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Question: Do they make 3-pin molex extension cords? If so, where do I get them?

Blitz, to answer your question, please check out this item from svc.com:

http://www.svc.com/123to3ex.html

Hope that helps


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Nice one, Cobra Comm... I mean, thlnk3r!

(I get mine at Fry's, btw.)


----------



## Mike-O

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


The DFI LANParty UT CFX3200 is a much more potent motherboard than the RDX200. The difference is in the chipsets. The CFX3200 has the ATi Xpress3200 and is a better overclocking chipset; the older RDX200 is not nearly as accomplished, though the DFI RDX200 is the best model available (compared to boards from ASUS and Sapphire).

Also, the CFX3200 will do 2x 16x Crossfire, the RDX200, only 2x 8x.

Hope this helps!











Oh man.. this is going to cost me so much.400Why did you have to say "better overclocking"








But I'll try to calm down. I probably won't be doing any crossfiring, so the 2x 16x isn't a huge factor to me. Anything else I should know about?

[EDIT]: Yeah... I just found a place that sells the RDX200 for $150 So this is probably going to be a no-brainer..


----------



## Blitz6804

Exactly what I wanted Thinks; one small problem:

The 12" is out of stock and the 24" is WAY too long. (All I need is like 6")

And Joe, I would use Fry's if there were any here; believe me.


----------



## Futuredrifter

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mike-O*


Thanks!

I've found 2 DFI Lanparty mobos. The RDX200 and CFX3200-DR. The CFX3200-DR costs about $50 more than the RDX200.

They both have nice features, but the CFX3200-DR has 3Gb SATA and the RXD200 only has 1.5Gb. Will I notice a big difference from that and is it worth the $50? There are some other differences, but they are not so important.

Anything else I should know about them?


The CFX3200 is a monster at OCing, the only thing that is limiting my system is my cpu. The 3Gb sata ULi M1575 controller is seriously flawed though, bugged to hell and no try to fix it from DFI. DFI's support for this board was terrible:swearing:. I run my raid off the Sil 3114 1.5Gb raid controller with no problems. So, if you don't mind a 1.5Gb raid then this board would be a nice for a 939 crossfire rig.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mike-O*


Oh man.. this is going to cost me so much.400Why did you have to say "better overclocking"








But I'll try to calm down. I probably won't be doing any crossfiring, so the 2x 16x isn't a huge factor to me. Anything else I should know about?


I know from research that RAID is a pain with either of these motherboards. The weakness is in the ULI RAID controller. There are myriad accounts of users running RAID whose arrays got damaged.

Also, the CFX3200, more than any other DFI, is the trickiest to maximize because of its super-configurable BIOS. It is NOT user-friendly, according to some reviewers. The facility for adjustment is extensive, but this comprehensiveness is balanced by the likelihood of frustration if things get too challenging. It is not a motherboard for casual overclockers who don't like to really get stuck in and test for days on end.









I have a CFX3200-DR, but I've yet to play with it. Now that I think about it, maybe I'm feeling some intimidation, and that's what's preventing me from firing it up. But I've resolved myself to finish this build this weekend so that I can start learning about this motherboard.









Good luck!


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mike-O*


Thanks!

I've found 2 DFI Lanparty mobos. The RDX200 and CFX3200-DR. The CFX3200-DR costs about $50 more than the RDX200.

They both have nice features, but the CFX3200-DR has 3Gb SATA and the RXD200 only has 1.5Gb. Will I notice a big difference from that and is it worth the $50? There are some other differences, but they are not so important.

Anything else I should know about them?


you won't notice the difference between 1.5gb/s and 3gb/s with a single drive, although I'm not sure about raid arrays.

eBay has the CFX3200-DR for under $150 sometimes, check that.
also, Tankguys has it for $215.

speaking of cables, can anybody find me a cable that lets me hook up molex fans to a 3-pin fan cable? My fan controller didn't come with any.


----------



## Blitz6804

Joe: *Bawk bawk!*

Everyone else: A status update. I am more-or-less hooked up. Just a few more wires left to run before I button her up and hope to God she works. If you got an agnostic doing that, you really have something. I had to take a quick food break though. It is now about 1630 here, and I realize I am hungry because I last ate around 0930. What did I have? A pop tart. *Scarfs down some tasty pizza.*

Stay tuned!


----------



## nategr8ns

lets go blitz! hurry up!

so the flames under our screennames, are those dependent on post count, reps, or both?
I just noticed I had two of them


----------



## boonie2

WOW Newegg has got 1 1/2 day shipping to florida??? AMAZING ... hardrive just arrived




























rep+ to the EGG


----------



## Blitz6804

It is based off post count Nate.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


speaking of cables, can anybody find me a cable that lets me hook up molex fans to a 3-pin fan cable? My fan controller didn't come with any.


Nate, check out this link from svc.com. This sounds like the item your looking for:

http://www.svc.com/4to3ad.html

Little off topic here but if anyone here has been waiting for the a trailer for the new Terminator Salvation movie here it is:

http://cinemablend.com/new/Terminato...iler-9541.html

This is going to be a good flick


----------



## nategr8ns

thanks thinker, +


----------



## Blitz6804

Good news and bad news:

POSTs great.

Loads Vista fine.

Loads XP, but then I am stuck; apparently the plug-and-play drivers for USB work in Vista, but not in XP. All USB devices are inoperative in XP. Further, the PS2 keyboard seems inoperative, but I will work on that, as it is also inoperative in Vista.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Good news and bad news:

POSTs great.

Loads Vista fine.

Loads XP, but then I am stuck; apparently the plug-and-play drivers for USB work in Vista, but not in XP. All USB devices are inoperative in XP. Further, the PS2 keyboard seems inoperative, but I will work on that, as it is also inoperative in Vista.


Blitz, is this your K8NSC-939 motherboard replacement? So you only installed the motherboard and are now trying to boot to the existing XP and Vista install that you used previously with your older motherboard?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

That's very odd, Blitz.

Obviously I can't attest to the board's performance in Vista, but it worked flawlessly when I used it in WinXP. No problems whatsoever...

(The AT8 32X Blitz has used to be mine, for the record.)


----------



## Blitz6804

I had expected problems like this Thinker; this is why it is always best to do a clean install whenever you change motherboards.

So far, it is gimping along in Vista as it installs drivers. Up to about 15 minutes of installs, no end in sight.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I had expected problems like this Thinker; this is why it is always best to do a clean install whenever you change motherboards.

So far, it is gimping along in Vista as it installs drivers. Up to about 15 minutes of installs, no end in sight.


Blitz, you went from a GA-K8NSC-939 to a AT8 32X without performing a clean installation? More than likely that is your problem buddy.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I am full aware that is my problem. *Chuckles.*

I am trying to get a work around to try to install the drivers I need without a reinstall.

If I can't, I at least have one of the OSes running so I can recover all data before the reinstall.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Ah, good.

For a moment there I thought I sent Sub-Zero a dead/limping motherboard.

It's clearly a classic case of *PEBMAC*, and not a hardware problem.

phewwwwwwww


----------



## Blitz6804

Update:

I tried a different PS2 keyboard. That worked. In XP now installing drivers.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hey, after our upcoming Club contest and the forever-postponed one-on-one between thlnk3r vs. txtmstrjoe's X2 3600+ Manchester duel, how about a Xpress3200 vs. Xpress3200 contest between Sub-Zero and Scorpion?

Hmmm?


----------



## froggy1986

Pio's computer is currently under construction so I am supposed to ask if ya'll think it would be ok to soak his Zalman 9500 in some hot water to wash it off? Or if there is another really good way to clean it good?


----------



## Blitz6804

Depends what it is dirty with. If just thermal compound, I like to use rubbing alcohol and Kimwipes until the Kimwipes stop turning gray.

If tar from his cigarettes, remove then fan, and then clean with impunity. Soap and water is fine (provided the fan is taken off) and you get it throughly dry before attempting to use it again. Be sure no soap residue remains.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Good advice there, Blitzen.


----------



## Blitz6804

I hereby declare Xaser TASER to be live again.

Still fiddling with the last few drivers in both Windows OSes (Linux kicked right over sans issue) and then I will start fiddling with my OCs.

Right now, the CPU is 2750, the RAM is 393, the VPU is stock.


----------



## froggy1986

Thanks blitz.. He says that he is referring mostly to dust that's kind of caked on so the can of air isn't removing it. I will let him know what you said. Also how does the fan come off? He says he didn't even know that it was removable.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Depends what it is dirty with. If just thermal compound, I like to use rubbing alcohol and Kimwipes until the Kimwipes stop turning gray.

If tar from his cigarettes, remove then fan, and then clean with impunity. Soap and water is fine (provided the fan is taken off) and you get it throughly dry before attempting to use it again. Be sure no soap residue remains.


pio smokes?!?

Froggy I guess you missed my post, but do you know of the store Barney's in your area? I think there are two of them in the seattle area if you drive all the way there often.


----------



## Blitz6804

http://www.silentpcreview.com/article284-page1.html

The two screws as the base of the HS hold the fan in place.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


pio smokes?!?

Froggy I guess you missed my post, but do you know of the store Barney's in your area? I think there are two of them in the seattle area if you drive all the way there often.


So does she.


----------



## nategr8ns

come on guys, quit it with the death sticks!


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


pio smokes?!?

Froggy I guess you missed my post, but do you know of the store Barney's in your area? I think there are two of them in the seattle area if you drive all the way there often.


OK so I gotta ask, even if it makes me seem really nOOb but wut is Barney's? And Pio asks why we would need to go there?

And yes...we are both smokers









Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


come on guys, quit it with the death sticks!


OK DR.Nate


----------



## nategr8ns

froggy, you have 399 posts!
rearranged, thats 939!!!!!!?!?!?

I'm not actually sure what barney's is, I think maybe a pawn shop and general-store type thing. My uncle is a co-owner of it though


----------



## Blitz6804

This is interesting:

My Sapphire HD 3850 was 669/829 stock, and was set by auto-tune to 709/939.

The Diamond HD 3850 is 725/900 stock, and was set by auto-tune (in Vista; usually lower than XP) to 795/965. Further, it is doing it at a lower temperature! As much as I prefer single-slot coolers, I have to say, I can see the temperature difference; 60Âº C versus 71Âº C.


----------



## nategr8ns

PCI-e FTW!!!!!11oneoneone11


----------



## Anqt31

Okay guys, I need some help; I'm building a website detailing processors and giving hints to overclocking them.
Here's the link:
http://anqt31.web.officelive.com/default.aspx

Please help me out with some info on some socket 939 processors!

If you want send me info, please send to [email protected]


----------



## boonie2

When do we get the details about the contest ? Also can you add my 175 to our roster?


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Hey guys,

Just ordered an Antec 300...anyone got any experience with them









Thanks


----------



## Blitz6804

To answer your first question: Soon.

To answer your second question: No. At present, the post cannot be made any longer; I have to rewrite the roster to fix that.


----------



## boonie2

What does "soon" mean ? like days ? hours ? weeks ? leaving for vacation soon thats why id like to know


----------



## pioneerisloud

I"m back...no worries guys. The Zalman cleaning will have to wait for another day.

However I was able to install my "Mountain Mods" Fan Controller that I aquired from a freebie here at OCN. Looks pretty sweet (granted I had to take out my car lighter / cup holder to fit it in)....and I can turn my fans from low/medium/high/ OR EVEN OFF.

Gotta jump in the shower now to rinse off all the blood. I'll be back in a few







.


----------



## Anqt31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SerenityKill3r* 
Hey guys,

Just ordered an Antec 300...anyone got any experience with them









Thanks

It's a great case, it's sitting in a box in my room waiting for me to complete my college build!


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Anqt31* 
It's a great case, it's sitting in a box in my room waiting for me to complete my college build!

What you going throwing in it?

One thing I dont really like about it is the HDD Caddy thing...


----------



## Anqt31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SerenityKill3r* 
What you going throwing in it?

One thing I dont really like about it is the HDD Caddy thing...

I'm throwing in 2x1GB GSkill DDR1000, 5000BE, DFI LANPARTY DK 790FX-M2RS, liquid cooling, 2 x Diamond 4850's, Corsair 750TX

Don't worry, I'm keeping my 939 rig as my web server @ home.


----------



## Blitz6804

I CAN FINALLY MAKE 3DMARK06 PUBLIC!

http://service.futuremark.com/compare?3dm06=7509412

Thus we see that PCI-E makes a difference of 243 3DMarks over AGP.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Congratulations Blitz!!! Your first ever PCIe 3DMark score! I'm so proud







.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I"m back...no worries guys. The Zalman cleaning will have to wait for another day.

However I was able to install my "Mountain Mods" Fan Controller that I aquired from a freebie here at OCN. Looks pretty sweet (granted I had to take out my car lighter / cup holder to fit it in)....and I can turn my fans from low/medium/high/ OR EVEN OFF.

Gotta jump in the shower now to rinse off all the blood. I'll be back in a few







.


did you actually have a lighter in it? with the coil? Or did you just shove your cigs in the DC outlet until it got hot?







. I would only get one for the cup holder, but I use my 5.25 bays to hold an intake fan, and one more device would only leave me with one open slot...

blitz you broke 9k!!!


----------



## Blitz6804

For once, I stand a chance in Race07!

PIO IS WASTED!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
For once, I stand a chance in Race07!

PIO IS WASTED!

I IS NOT!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I CAN FINALLY MAKE 3DMARK06 PUBLIC!

http://service.futuremark.com/compare?3dm06=7509412

Thus we see that PCI-E makes a difference of 243 3DMarks over AGP.


Blitz, great job









Quote:



Originally Posted by *froggy1986*


Thanks blitz.. He says that he is referring mostly to dust that's kind of caked on so the can of air isn't removing it. I will let him know what you said. Also how does the fan come off? He says he didn't even know that it was removable.










Froggy & Pio, all though I'm sure you're not referring to the base of the cooler but my polishing compound that I use at home gets rid of AS5 pretty well. If you just have dust caked on (fans, fins ect) my method is 80psi from an air compressor, 70% isopropyl alcohol and some paper towels


----------



## boonie2

Anyone know of a FREE program I can use to transfer ALL my data and VISTA onto my new HDD ??


----------



## nategr8ns

is acronis free? Maybe a demo version of that or something.
I'm not sure of one that lets you go straight to another HDD though (acronis might







)


----------



## Blitz6804

Okay, so I have some issues with the new setup.

With my old motherboard, the location and size of the video card lent itself to exhausting directly outside the case. (I had a fan intake under the card's exhaust, and the fan exhausted outside.) With this motherboard, there was no room to do that, and so, the card right now is exhausting right onto my soundboard.

The end result is that case temps are way up, and it is causing the CPU temps to follow.

The only fix I can think of is to cut another fan hole on the bottom of the case for another 120mm, but I think that would only postpone the issue since another 3850 is eventually going in there. How does everyone else deal with these temperature issues?


----------



## nategr8ns

put a fan between the graphics cards and the HDD rack. Remove expansion slot covers and let the fan blow air through there.
the only problem would be that the air would escape around the side of the card. if you can direct the air from the fan through the expansion cards, and not go around the cards (because then the cooler won't be getting the air), you should be good.


----------



## Blitz6804

Thanks Nate; it was a cool-sounding idea.

Unfortunately, it did not work in practice, my temps went up further. Perhaps ducting would be needed to pull it off?

If I could find a way to get rid of the PCI-slot cold cathode light, and am willing to sacrifice two USB ports, I could reinstall my PCI-slot cooler directly under the socket. Anyone know how to rewire the switch elsewhere?


----------



## nategr8ns

do you have a piece of cardboard that you can stick between the sound card and video card? That way the air gets to the GPU cooler.
make sure it doesn't put pressure on the sound card.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *boonie2*   Anyone know of a FREE program I can use to transfer ALL my data and VISTA onto my new HDD ??  
boonie, before I plunked down for Acronis, DriveImage XML was my backup freeware of choice. Here is    
 



  



 
 , too.









Hope this helps, man.


----------



## Anqt31

@nate
leave the case side off, and put two 120mm fans so that they blow directly on the gfx card and mobo. that is how I keep my gfx and mobo temps down during the summer.


----------



## Blitz6804

I was asking Anqt, he was helping me. *Chuckles.*

For now, I am trying my experiment. I pulled the USB header, moved the PCI-slot CCF switch somewhere inside the case, and mounted my PCI-slot cooler. Once Everest boots (I am trying a new method to attempt to delay the boot) I will see if it worked.

EDIT: That seems to have worked.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quick update (READ: Wall-of-text warning):

While I had a nice 3DMark06 score, I would occasionally crash the video driver. It does not recover as nice with this video card as with the AGP-variant, and pictures would be distorted until I restarted the PC.

I took a 7 MHz drop on the GPU core (about 50 3DMarks) but now am Real-Time High Dynamic Range Image-Based Lighting stable for 1/2 hour. Unlike the AGP card, which could not do much more than 1300x1100 before it would cause the program to crash (over 100% load) this card can run 1920x1200x32 at 16x Anti-aliasing and Bump maps turned on. Granted, it only does it at 3-5 FPS, it does it all the same. (At 8x AA, you get a "playable" picture, that is, 60+ FPS at that resolution. Nice. Crysis time soon methinks.)

In other news, this motherboard has an "annoying" feature: unplug it, and when you boot next time, most things set to default. Granted, resetting the external clock to 200 MHz is nice if you went to far, resetting to stock without fiddling with the CMOS jumper, but there is another side effect: all the fan throttling, monitoring, and system alarms return to default. PCI-E and RAM settings are unaffected, but it is still annoying.

I discovered this this morning. I needed to fiddle around with some wires to try to improve airflow. When I restarted, I also figured I would drop my GPUC clock as I said above. I dropped it 20 MHz, and upon running 3DMark, found I lost over 2000 3DMarks! *Gasp!* This made me about 1800 3Dmarks BELOW AGP. I started going crazy and then thought to check CPU-Z. Sure enough, I had dropped back to 2200 MHz.

Long story short, I fixed it as above, and now am around 9170. I do not remember, and I did not submit it.

Before I fixed it though, I did some stock of my temperatures both before and after 3DMark. All readings are done at 24Âº C ambient with the PCI-slot cooler installed between the secondary PCI-E-slot and the Socket:

STOCK (2205 MHz)
Case: 32Âº C idle, 38Âº C loaded
Proc1: 27Âº C idle, 44Âº C loaded
Proc2: 34Âº C idle, 47Âº C loaded

OVERCLOCKED (2801 MHz)
Case: 34Âº C idle, 38Âº C loaded
Proc1: 30Âº C idle, 46Âº C loaded
Proc2: 36Âº C idle, 48Âº C loaded

I would take those temperatures to mean I have some overclocking headway now. Comparing cold-start temperatures, before the GPU has a chance to mess up case temperatures, I would estimate that my lap job has improved idle temperatures by as much as 12Âº C, and load temperatures as much as 8Âº C. Pre-lap, on the AGP board, my cooler core ran at 40Âº C idle. Post-lap, the cooler core ran at 30Âº C in a warmer case temperature. Pre-lap, 3DMark made CPU temps rise to the mid-upper 50s; now they remain sub-50.

Only thing left to do is OCCT I suppose. Oh, that, and wring some more work out of the processor.

It should also be noted that I am seriously acknowledging now that the GA-K8NSC-939 was holding me back. When set to 1.35 V in the BIOS, it would provide 1.328 Â± 0.028 V (quantum = 0.014 V). Cool-n-quiet dropped the multiplier from 11x to 5x and dropped voltage to 1.080 Â± 0.008 V (quantum = 0.004 V). Cool-n-quiet worked in XP and Linux, not Vista.

On this board, when set to 1.35 V in the BIOS, it provides 1.380 Â± 0.010 V (quantum = 0.010 V). Cool-n-quiet has two settings. The multiplier at 9x drops the voltage to 1.260 Â± 0.010 V (quantum = 0.010 V) and the 5x drops the voltage to 1.120 Â± 0.010 V (quantum = 0.010 V). In other words, I have a much more stable (and higher) voltage to work with. For those of you keeping score at home, my average load VCore is about 3.91% higher than before, meaning I should be able to keep a higher, S&M-stable, 24/7 configuration. So far, I am running 2801 (versus 2750 previously) with more expected to come.

</WALL_O_TEXT>


----------



## Anqt31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I was asking Anqt, he was helping me. *Chuckles.*

For now, I am trying my experiment. I pulled the USB header, moved the PCI-slot CCF switch somewhere inside the case, and mounted my PCI-slot cooler. Once Everest boots (I am trying a new method to attempt to delay the boot) I will see if it worked.

EDIT: That seems to have worked.


My bad, sorry blitz... glad you got the temps down. Summer heat really kills


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


My bad, sorry blitz... glad you got the temps down. Summer heat really kills


Not a huge deal in my case. In the summer, my ambient is around 22Âº C. In the winter, the ambient is around 19Âº C.

I really do not think a 3Âº C ambient shift will cause a major issue. The temperature change resulted from the change in video cards. (The PCI-E venting into the case, the AGP venting straight out the back.)


----------



## boonie2

Thanks Joe , thats exactly what I was looking for







...... BTW we visited Maimi Metro Zoo today .... gave all the animals your reguards














amazing what theyve done to that Zoo concidering it was demolished with ANDREW then badly damaged again with KATRINA







Kudos to all you hard working Zoo emolyees


----------



## nategr8ns

wow, great temps blitz!
i say go for 3ghz now!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
wow, great temps blitz!
i say go for 3ghz now!

Motion seconded! Especially if you can adjust your voltage with Cool N' Quiet turned on







. That'd be even better!


----------



## nategr8ns

well guys, I'm going to submit a tech support form in to DFI.
Does anybody know where I can find my serial number for this board? There's a bunch of numbers on top of the pci-e slots, but I don't know which one is serial








and there is also one sticker on the PCB itself.

edit: they are asking for the BIOS date code, which I can't find because I can't boot or get a video signal. I may try with a pci card just to find that code, see if it works.


----------



## boonie2

OH OH







Might be joining you there Nate , cant seem to get my board to go into bios now , goes thru all the led checks but not into the bois . Have another Sli board but really dont want to go thru all that agiin


----------



## nategr8ns

well they won't RMA for customers in the US. We have to contact the retailer we bought it from.
Looks like I'm SOL if they can't help me out through email.
(I still haven't submitted the form though, I can't find serial number or BIOS Date code.)

my next rig will be based upon a gigabyte probably...


----------



## Blitz6804

Gigabyte has good customer support. They repaired my motherboard (the first time) free-of-charge even though it was out of the support period. However, the repairs were a little shoddy, hence why it had to be repaired again. On the other hand, the repairs did last longer than 90 days, and they are again repairing it free-of-charge.


----------



## boonie2

seems like alot of repairs tho , 1st time shoddy repairs / repaired again / and repairing it a 3rd time?


----------



## Anqt31

Do you guys like Asus? Or how bout MSI?


----------



## Blitz6804

I am on my second repair. It has not returned yet.

As to ASUS, most people have luck with them, I have not. Both ASUS boards I had were RMAed several times. (The newer of which was about 6 times.) I am told it was not ASUS's fault given the fact that they had the VIA KT400 and VIA KT600 chipsets respectively. I am not sure, because the Abit I had (VIA KT333) was rock-solid steady. I sold it still working after 3 years.

As to Microstar International, I have never had experience with them. I can think of quite a few people who tell you to steer clear, but I have no experience as I said.

The one I recommend getting is Abit. My Skt A board still works to this day. My Dad's Skt T does as well. And I again just bought an Abit board. So far, I have no problems.

(Those ASUS boards were the A7V8X and the A7V600 respectively.)


----------



## nategr8ns

I have an MSI. The ethernet was acting up (Would work for 20 minutes after first use, like first web page loaded, after boot up). If I wanted to use it for more than 20 minutes I had to restart. It's working now though








I'm actually starting to like it more.


----------



## boonie2

Nate , just a thought about your DFI problem , how far did the board go thru the LED diagnostics? the reason im asking is because I just solved my problem of not being able to get into the bios by replacing the CMOS battery. Checked and rechecked everything I could think of , then thought what the heck let me try the battery , and wouldnt you know , that was the problem , jumped right into the bois , Not sure what youve tried but I thought id through that out there


----------



## nategr8ns

good idea boonie, I wonder if it's the same battery as my MSI one? I can switch those just to see.
It makes it to the third LED, which means its searching for memory (and has found processor).
I still can't get any video signal though, which is really bewildering.


----------



## boonie2

Mine stopped just after detecting the processor also , no video signal , nothing , did the Cmos reset / jumpers / memory switching / 1 stick / 2 sticks / GPUs out / single GPU only ....... blah blah blah blah ........ finally i was getting ready to switch boards back to my SLI DR , then thought what the heck let me try the battery














... Hope it works for you


----------



## Blitz6804

To recall GuardianOdin and Boonie's DFI experiences, I would say that a battery swap should be your next step Nate.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


good idea boonie, I wonder if it's the same battery as my MSI one? I can switch those just to see.


Nate, the batteries are the same. CR2032 is the model. If you have a multimeter you can check the votlage of the battery. Make sure it's within 3.0 - 3.1volts.

Here's a interesting BIOS corruption guide on the DFI boards, perhaps this might help with a few things:

http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=325031

Good luck


----------



## nategr8ns

thanks blitzen, boondocks, and thinker
I'll try the battery thing sometime this week.


----------



## boonie2

Worked for me , That was the last thing on my mind to check too


----------



## Blitz6804

Does anyone have any experience with the Vantec IceberQ 6? I am thinking that they might alleviate my heat spreading issue from the 3850(s) as those heatsinks will vent directly outside of the case. I am reading reviews online now and they seem to be decent.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Alright well Blitz gave me a little inspiration, so this overclock is for you!

After struggling with my RAM woes, I've figured out that my motherboard just hates to deal with faster RAM. So I decided to try and struggle with a new function...the HT Link!

Blitz noted that he had his HT Link all the way up to (roughly) 1275MHz. So I decided I had to try that out!

So here's what I stabilized!

312 HT Clock x 9 multi (=2808MHz)
4x HT Link (gives me 1248MHz HT Link)
133MHz RAM Divider (puts RAM to 200MHz)
2,3,2,6,1T Timing (working on tighter timings now, and will post back)
*1.225v in BIOS, 1.248v under load, 1.265v idle*
17 HOURS STABLE!!!

Proof is below along with OCCT charts.


----------



## Blitz6804

'Gratz Pio. Think you can send me that CPU in exchange for the RAM? I'll send you my Toledo...


----------



## tonkoshala

Figured I'd post here while I can. Moving to a QX9650...Waited as long as I could to stay faithful to AMD, but the FX60 just doesn't cut it anymore







I got ALOT of life out it and it still rips!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


'Gratz Pio. Think you can send me that CPU in exchange for the RAM? I'll send you my Toledo...


No thanks blitz...I've already got a Toledo







. Its an Opteron Toledo though







. And she's a beauty!!!

EDIT:
BTW...thank you Blitz for helping me perma-fry Vista! I'm kidding, its not your fault







. But you were on the phone with me.

Joe:
Remember back in the day with the Grand Poobah and me doing suicide runs. Seems good ol' Pioneer is at it again! Just permafried another stinkin OS thanks to my RAM being unstable!!! This time its a legit OS...so I'm gonna be calling MS first thing in the morning to complain







.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tonkoshala*


Figured I'd post here while I can. Moving to a QX9650...Waited as long as I could to stay faithful to AMD, but the FX60 just doesn't cut it anymore







I got ALOT of life out it and it still rips!

















BLASPHEMY


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tonkoshala*


Figured I'd post here while I can. Moving to a QX9650...Waited as long as I could to stay faithful to AMD, but the FX60 just doesn't cut it anymore







I got ALOT of life out it and it still rips!


Post for us a CPU-Z screenshot or validation link. As long as you use the rig, you can be an active member.

Until the edge of eternity, you can be a nostalgic member.

Whichever suits your fancy.

I look forward to you joining us!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


BTW...thank you Blitz for helping me perma-fry Vista! I'm kidding, its not your fault







. But you were on the phone with me.

Joe:
Remember back in the day with the Grand Poobah and me doing suicide runs. Seems good ol' Pioneer is at it again! Just permafried another stinkin OS thanks to my RAM being unstable!!! This time its a legit OS...so I'm gonna be calling MS first thing in the morning to complain







.


But it wasn't my fault. </SOLO>

All I asked you to do was up your VCore to 1.35 V. In so doing, it rendered Windows unactivatable. (And of course, the phone hotline is closed at 2330h PDT.)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Joe:
Remember back in the day with the Grand Poobah and me doing suicide runs. Seems good ol' Pioneer is at it again! Just permafried another stinkin OS thanks to my RAM being unstable!!! This time its a legit OS...so I'm gonna be calling MS first thing in the morning to complain







.


Pio, this is when you need to start making images of your drives like Joe does. Makes recovering a lot easier and faster.

Hurry back


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


BTW...thank you Blitz for helping me perma-fry Vista! I'm kidding, its not your fault







. But you were on the phone with me.


Uh oh. Good to mention this. Now I know to not ask Sub-Zero for RAM tweaks...







j/k

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Joe: Remember back in the day with the Grand Poobah and me doing suicide runs. Seems good ol' Pioneer is at it again! Just permafried another stinkin OS thanks to my RAM being unstable!!! This time its a legit OS...so I'm gonna be calling MS first thing in the morning to complain







.


Oh, yeah. Who can forget good times like that!









Hope you get that MS OS SOS sorted out, man!


----------



## Blitz6804

Seriously; all I asked him to do was change VCore.

All the RAM tweaks were did only effected stability. When he upped VCore, the OS tapped out.

I am curious (he did not tell me last night) did he put the settings back to where they were and tried loading Windows again? And/or did he clear the CMOS and then put the settings back before loading Windows again?

As to what happened to his Vista: it says the key needs to be activated. If you try activating it, you are told your key is invalid. Forget the fact he has a full-retail copy in front of him with the key clearly written on it...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Seriously; all I asked him to do was change VCore.

All the RAM tweaks were did only effected stability. When he upped VCore, the OS tapped out.

I am curious (he did not tell me last night) did he put the settings back to where they were and tried loading Windows again? And/or did he clear the CMOS and then put the settings back before loading Windows again?

As to what happened to his Vista: it says the key needs to be activated. If you try activating it, you are told your key is invalid. Forget the fact he has a full-retail copy in front of him with the key clearly written on it...


Blitz, you can still get data corruption with an unstable overclock regardless if the memory is stable. It's just one of those things, I wouldn't worry about it. In regards to the Vista key issue, all Pio has to do is call up Microsoft via telephone. I've gotten brand new copies that need activation


----------



## Blitz6804

Right. Like we said though, the licensing department was shut at the time. According to the "Shelia,"* the licensing department is open from 5am - 9pm PDT. (I could have swore it was 9am - 5pm PDT, but Pio says the other way.)

* "Shelia" is the name for any of those generic female-synth voices.


----------



## tonkoshala

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Post for us a CPU-Z screenshot or validation link. As long as you use the rig, you can be an active member.

Until the edge of eternity, you can be a nostalgic member.

Whichever suits your fancy.

I look forward to you joining us!

But it wasn't my fault. </SOLO>

All I asked you to do was up your VCore to 1.35 V. In so doing, it rendered Windows unactivatable. (And of course, the phone hotline is closed at 2330h PDT.)



Haven't taken a screen shot under Vista X64 anyone know how off hand?


----------



## Blitz6804

Open CPU-Z. Hold down the Alt key and then press the PrtScn key. Open up Paint (use a start menu search if you wish; it is faster) and press Ctrl+V. Then save the file and upload it to here. If you want to upload it to the Overclock.net server, you must be in the "Go Advanced" mode.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tonkoshala*


Haven't taken a screen shot under Vista X64 anyone know how off hand?


Tonkoshala, another way would be to post your CPU-Z validation link. Open up CPU-Z and go to the "About" tab and click on "Validation".

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I never noticed this before, but scroll down to the bottom of this page. I didn't realize there are so many linkbacks to our thread.

Come to think of it, I don't even know specifically what linkbacks are. Anyone care to explain it to a nooblet like yours truly..?


----------



## Blitz6804

They were only recently added.

A LinkBack shows you all sites that have linked to the site of interest.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
They were only recently added.

A LinkBack shows you all sites that have linked to the site of interest.

TYVM, good sir.


----------



## tonkoshala

Word

I will get it in asap!


----------



## nategr8ns

rofl whats the linkback about "real breast milk from a lactating mother"
what does that have to do with socket 939?!??


----------



## Blitz6804

If anyone who has Geico auto insurance wonders why your rates are high, here is why:

In the past 4 months, I have received eight letters requesting that I buy their car insurance. Each letter comes with a self-addressed, self-stamped envelope. You would think after me not answering the first two or three I was not interested. After the sixth and seventh went back with a big "NOT INTERESTED" emblazoned on the application they would not have sent the eighth, but they did anyway. I just called them and told them to take me off the list since they apparently can neither read their mail nor take a hint.

Here is the real kicker: I do not even own a car!


----------



## GuardianOdin

My Geico is cheap. I pay $35 a month vs some of the others that have been $60-$80


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Seriously; all I asked him to do was change VCore.

All the RAM tweaks were did only effected stability. When he upped VCore, the OS tapped out.

I am curious (he did not tell me last night) did he put the settings back to where they were and tried loading Windows again? And/or did he clear the CMOS and then put the settings back before loading Windows again?

As to what happened to his Vista: it says the key needs to be activated. If you try activating it, you are told your key is invalid. Forget the fact he has a full-retail copy in front of him with the key clearly written on it...



THAT key number wont work again only works once , the same thing happened to me too , tried the phone activation thing and NO GO , He has to call microsoft support and theyll walk him thru the phone activation part with a BRAND NEW activation number to enter then hes all set


----------



## Blitz6804

Under $500 a year for car insurance?! THAT'S INSANE!

Indiana must be cheaper than New York. My mother is the lowest-paying person in the family. Forty-eight, no accidents, no tickets, and a "pleasure driver," she pays about $900 a year on a seven-year-old car with only general liability.

(I am the highest in my family. My dad owns the car and has the car insured with me as an authorized user. When we first got it, my insurance was about $5,000 for liability, collision, and commuting 70 miles daily. Now I am down to $2,200 for liability, collision, and "pleasure driving." My rates dropped about $1000 just from moving to Buffalo from Long Island. And for the record, "pleasure driver" is someone who commutes less than 40 miles daily.)

Only 813 posts to go until we get to the post numbered after me!


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Here is the real kicker: I do not even own a car!


lol, you crazy new yorker









blitz, is there a website I can go to to read about laws in maine? Or do I have to stop by a town hall or something to have a look at the law books?

I'm curious about the laws for radar detectors and window tinting for cars


----------



## Blitz6804

See if this website is of any help to you:

http://janus.state.me.us/legis/statu...-Ach0sec0.html

That is Title 29-A of the Maine revised statutes.


----------



## nategr8ns

thank you much


----------



## Blitz6804

I just read it myself. I do not see anything about RADAR or LASER detectors or scramblers.

You will notice that Â§ 1916 addresses tint:

"1. Windows to be unobscured. A person may not operate a motor vehicle required to be registered in this State and an inspection mechanic may not issue a certificate of inspection for a motor vehicle, if:
A. A window is composed of, covered by or treated with any material that is reflective; [1993, c. 683, Pt. A, Â§2 (NEW); 1993, c. 683, Pt. B, Â§5 (AFF).]
B. The front windshield is composed of, covered by or treated with a material that reduces the light transmittance through the window more than the original installation window or an original replacement window; [1993, c. 683, Pt. A, Â§2 (NEW); 1993, c. 683, Pt. B, Â§5 (AFF).]
C. A side window or rear window is composed of, covered by or treated with a material that allows a light transmittance of less than 35% net of glass and material; or [2007, c. 186, Â§1 (AMD).]
D. A front windshield, front door window or window at either end of a rear passenger seat does not contain 2-way glass that provides the occupants with a clear view of the road and a person outside the vehicle with a clear view of the occupants and the interior of the vehicle. [1993, c. 683, Pt. A, Â§2 (NEW); 1993, c. 683, Pt. B, Â§5 (AFF).]"

Basically, leave your front window alone. The side windows must permit at least 35% of the light through. The yardstick in New York (which may not be a bad idea): if you cannot see a silhouette through the glass, it is too dark.


----------



## nategr8ns

thanks again








I was also unable to find anything about radar detectors, so I did a search on google. Not sure how updated this is, but according to it Maine is in the clear when it comes to detectors (and laser jammers).


----------



## Blitz6804

Usually, a lack of legislation means a covert nod to legality. However, this does not take into account any jurisprudence on the issue.

The easiest thing to do is go to or call up your local precinct (use the precinct number, not 911) and ask them.


----------



## nategr8ns

blitz, the website you linked is official right? Because I found information on a slightly less reputable site saying that windows had to allow 50% of light through. The data was dated 1989. The site you linked was dated 2007 though.


----------



## Blitz6804

As you noticed, the site I linked you to was the official ME State Legislature. Any website ending in a "-.state.XX.us" must be only a US State's website.


----------



## nategr8ns

That's what I figured


----------



## txtmstrjoe

*Cues up the jukebox for nate:

"Breakin' the law! Breakin' the law!
Breakin' the law! Breakin' the law!"

I wish I knew what the title of that song is. Though it wouldn't surprise me if the hook is the same as the title.

I'd be mindful of another song, though:

"I fought the law, and the law won!
I fought the law, and the law won!"


----------



## Blitz6804

The former is "Breaking the Law" by Judas Priest.

The latter is "I Fought the Law" by The Clash.

The more you know...


----------



## nategr8ns

...The more you Newegg! sorry, wrong motto









Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


*Cues up the jukebox for nate:

"Breakin' the law! Breakin' the law!
Breakin' the law! Breakin' the law!"

I wish I knew what the title of that song is. Though it wouldn't surprise me if the hook is the same as the title.

I'd be mindful of another song, though:

"I fought the law, and the law won!
I fought the law, and the law won!"




















I needed money cause I, Had none!
I fought the law and the, law won
I fought the law and the, law won

never heard breaking the law, so I can't sing that one


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I know about "I Fought The Law." I like Bryan Adams' cover version that he used to do in the late 1980s. 'tis a most fun song to play and belt out with a band behind you.









But thanks for IDing "Breaking The Law" for me.


----------



## Blitz6804

Greenday also did a cover of it unless I am horribly mistaken.

And for a more appropriate song Nate, look into "Cash" by Sugar Ray.


----------



## nategr8ns

i believe greenday did do a cover







. IIRC it didn't sound _too _bad though








rofl blitz, that song (link removed because blitz doesn't like you guys being lazy) is appropriate








but I prefer older songs, even though I'm not so old myself


----------



## Blitz6804

Nate, I'd recommend removing the link and letting people find it for themselves.

For those who are lazy, here is a sample of the lyrics:

"Cash! I need some <fancy> cash! And I need it kinda fast. I need it right away right away! Yeah!
Cash! I'm gonna make it last. Don't tell me about the past! I need it right away right away!
I need some <fancy> cash. You need some <fancy> cash. We all need some <fancy> cash, run and get my gun!"

(It continues much of the same after this.)


----------



## nategr8ns

yeah i stopped it about halfway through what you posted


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Holy karaoke, Batman!

Since we're all trading songs and lyrics, here's a song the Beatles covered in one of their very first albums.

_Money

The best things in life are free
but you can keep them for the birds and bees
Now give me money (that's what I want)
That's what I want
That's what I want
That's what I want

Your lovin' gives me a thrill,
but your lovin' don't pay my bills
Now give me money (that's what I want)
That's what I want
That's what I want

Money don't give everything, it's true
What it don't get, I can't use
Now give me money (that's what I want)
That's what I want
That's what I want

Well now give me money
A lot of money
Wow, yeah, I wanna be free
Oh I want money
That's what I want
That's what I want, well
Now give me money
A lot of money
Wow, yeah, you need money
now, give me money
That's what I want, yeah
that's what I want _


----------



## Blitz6804

Money? I prefer:


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Pio, this is when you need to start making images of your drives like Joe does. Makes recovering a lot easier and faster.

Hurry back









Actually I have an image made....just don't know how to get to it without Windows in tact







. Used Acronis and its an image made on DVD's.

I just hope all I have to do is call them up and get a new key. That's easy enough. Won't require using my images either







. That's what I hope happens.

*Appology:*
And I hold nobody personally responsible for what happened except myself







. I was the one sitting at the keyboard, not Mr. Blitz. So I'm sorry if it seemed that I really was blaming someone else







....I didn't mean it.


----------



## nategr8ns

joe, was that on the album please, please me?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Money? I prefer: 




I have that album too







(Just not the vinyl)

you guys have good taste in music.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
joe, was that on the album please, please me?

nate, "Money" is the last track on "With The Beatles," the Fab Four's second album.









(In case you're wondering, the last track on "Please Please Me" -- still one of my favorite Beatles albums -- is a cover of "Twist and Shout." A sensationally great song to just let go and belt out with a band!







)


----------



## nategr8ns

I have most of the Beatles CDs, not including the Red Album, along with a few others.
My parents do have the vinyl of the Red Album. My favorite band of all time. We have a home video of me running around in circles when I was three or four saying ""all you need is wud" over and over again with the song in the background


----------



## Blitz6804

My mother has the Red and Blue albums on vinyl. My collection includes those two (both are compilations) and tracks from Abbey Road and the White album.

To be perfectly honest, I can hit or miss with the Beatles. True, I have them in my playlist, it is not uncommon for me to skip over them. My friend on the other hand is a Beatles nut. At last count, I think he has over 500 MP3s. He has multiple versions of each song. Similar to me, he has Komm Gib Mir Deine Hand and Sie Liebt Dich. These are I Wanna Hold Your Hand and She Loves You, respectively, sung in German on their continental tour. He is also a big Electric Light Orchestra fan, which again, I am hit and miss with.

What I cannot do without:

Billy Joel,
Black Sabbath,
Bon Jovi,
Led Zeppelin,
Lynyrd Skynyrd,
Metalica,
Panic! at the Disco, and
The Rolling Stones

I must hear at least one song from each daily or I might get twitchy. Some of those bands need duplicates. I have about 100 other artists besides that may or may not come up depending where in the alphabet I am.

Right now I have on the Vapors: "I Think I'm Turning Japanese."

Post Script: Idiot me forgot Pink Floyd. Some days, I just gotta sit down and listen to Dark Side of the Moon and Wish You Were Here back-to-back to keep my zen. Occasionally with capacious amounts of ethanol. Other days, it is a dose of _Freebird_ that keeps me straight, and others the only fix is Simple Plan's _Welcome to my Life_.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
I have most of the Beatles CDs, not including the Red Album, along with a few others.
My parents do have the vinyl of the Red Album. My favorite band of all time. We have a home video of me running around in circles when I was three or four saying ""all you need is wud" over and over again with the song in the background









nate, my boy, you are THE MAN.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
My mother has the Red and Blue albums on vinyl. My collection includes those two (both are compilations) and tracks from Abbey Road and the White album.
*
To be perfectly honest, I can hit or miss with the Beatles.* True, I have them in my playlist, it is not uncommon for me to skip over them. My friend on the other hand is a Beatles nut. At last count, I think he has over 500 MP3s. He has multiple versions of each song. Similar to me, he has Komm Gib Mir Deine Hand and Sie Liebt Dich. These are I Wanna Hold Your Hand and She Loves You, respectively, sung in German on their continental tour. He is also a big Electric Light Orchestra fan, which again, I am hit and miss with.

What I cannot do without:

Billy Joel,
Black Sabbath,
Bon Jovi,
Led Zeppelin,
Lynyrd Skynyrd,
Metalica,
Panic! at the Disco, and
The Rolling Stones

I must hear at least one song from each daily or I might get twitchy. Some of those bands need duplicates. I have about 100 other artists besides that may or may not come up depending where in the alphabet I am.

Right now I have on the Vapors: "I Think I'm Turning Japanese."

Post Script: Idiot me forgot Pink Floyd. Some days, I just gotta sit down and listen to Dark Side of the Moon and Wish You Were Here back-to-back to keep my zen. Occasionally with capacious amounts of ethanol. Other days, it is a dose of _Freebird_ that keeps me straight, and others the only fix is Simple Plan's _Welcome to my Life_.

Sub-Zero, I have nothing to say to you for your indifference to the Beatles.


----------



## Blitz6804

Some songs I love. Some I hate. Some I can tolerate.

Sometimes I am just not in the mood to listen to any Beatles, even the ones I love.

(Hey Jude, Revolution, Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds, Lady Madonna, Back in the USSR, and Maxwell's Silver Hammer.)

As for tonight, it is a Pink Floyd night. The blender just finished making that frozen concoction that helps me hang on. Call of Duty anyone?


----------



## Anqt31

I agree with Blitz, some of the songs are good, and others are just "mediocre" No band, no matter what, has 100% great songs


----------



## f4t4l1ty

Looks like I'm coming back to my Opteron 170.


----------



## The Master Chief

Blitz, you have a good taste of music except for... Panic at the Disco... WTH!? lol


----------



## Anqt31

That's cool, why you coming back? Get tired of AM2? Have to downgrade? Just like ole S939


----------



## f4t4l1ty

Something like that.









Actually, I'm selling my rig. I'm leaving for AFTS and I won't be able to use it for a while. My 939 rig will do me just fine.


----------



## tonkoshala

Here it is! I have everything set to stock presently. For some unfound reason I cannot get Vista X64 stable right now...I keep getting the ole BSOD pretty frequently.

No worries though I'm bout to break the thing down and prep for the QX9650. I will be rebuilding in an older case so the FX will have another home. Gonna let the wife use it


----------



## Blitz6804

Well The Master Chief, everyone has a few skeletons in their closet.

You should see some of the bands I have on here. Linkin Park, Still Remains, Good Charlotte, Greenday, Oasis, Backstreet Boys, NoFX, *NSync, Derek and the Dominos, George Thorogood and the Delaware Destroyers, The Police, Wings, Nobuo Uematsu, Plus-Tech Squeeze Box, Wang Chung, Rammstein, Eminem, E Nomine...

The list can go on for hours.

And a special club welcome to tonkoshala. I'll have Joe add you to the roster as soon as possible.


----------



## The Master Chief

Lol aight. Rammestein is awesome!
As soon as my HD comes, I'll post a CPUZ of my 939 rig boo ya!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *f4t4l1ty* 
Looks like I'm coming back to my Opteron 170.

Now that's what I'm talken about


----------



## tonkoshala

I will say I ran my FX all the way till now. Played Crysis and many other games on high settings with a 32 LCD connected to my 8800.
Never saw much point in moving to the AM2 platform, and the AMD quads are well...
I really wish that AMD would quit with the ATI BS and make a good CPU. I know the GPUs they have come out with are incredible for a real low price, but it just aint the same.
So yeah LONG LIVE 939!!!!

PS My highest stable OC was 3.2 back when I had her on water...


----------



## crazcookye

The opty and fx are still good chips, and also they have a GREAT resell value.
Lucky I have picked up a opty 175 and a FX-60, both 939, for a mere 100 bucks total!

let see, opty 175 around 125 on ebay.
fx-60, around 350 on ebay.

good stuff.


----------



## tonkoshala

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crazcookye*


The opty and fx are still good chips, and also they have a GREAT resell value.
Lucky I have picked up a opty 175 and a FX-60, both 939, for a mere 100 bucks total!

let see, opty 175 around 125 on ebay.
fx-60, around 350 on ebay.

good stuff.


$350 Tempting...I could add some nice stuff to my QX build with that...


----------



## crazcookye

yea man, just put in a search for fx 60 939 on ebay, you can see how much they still go for...go figures...

ebay is funny, I sold a 7950gt ko for 120 the other day...what the hell...
Also, amd 2800+ socket 462 for 50+12 for shipping...go figures.


----------



## tonkoshala

heh gotta love a world market!!!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Alright got my Windows installation repaired. Called up MS technical support and they helped me rebuild the licensing service...which got corrupt when tinkering with my RAM







. No worries though...I'm back and 100% working great!

However in the down time, I decided I could tinker with my RAM to see what I can do with it WITHOUT bricking another OS (since it was down anyway). So I just dealed with memtest86+ while it was down. Here's what I came up with







.

200MHz (DDR400)
*2-3-2-5-1T timings* (tighter from 2-3-2-*6*-1T)
2.85 vDimm (up from 2.80v)

Passed memtest86+ just fine with 13+ hours. So I can assume its stable in Windows since it'll pass memtest







. Proof is below...I SO HAPPY NOW!


----------



## Blitz6804

*Tapes target to his chest.*

Time to play Call of Duty 4 methinks.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
200MHz (DDR400)
*2-3-2-5-1T timings* (tighter from 2-3-2-*6*-1T)
2.85 vDimm (up from 2.80v)

Pio, glad you got your copy of Vista working again









Question for you and probably for the rest of the club. I was under the impression that additional Vdimm was not necessarily required when running lower timings but only when the memory frequency was increased? I've ran several sets of memory at low sub-timings and never had to increase the Vdimm. Just a little curious

Thanks









Btw started stability tests on my new Biostar 6100-939 board. So far I'm doing great at 2957mhz with 1.31volts (OCCT)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

In my experience, from the tests I've done, additional VDIMM can be helpful either when tightening the timings or when increasing the RAM frequency. The difficulty is determining (only through testing) how much VDIMM is good for the ICs; sometimes the RAM is responsive to a lot of VDIMM (old-style Winbond BH-5 crave voltage), sometimes the RAM is not (such as modern Infineon-based BE-5/6 or CE-5/6 or Hynix D43s like your F1-3200PHU2s).

Most modern DDR are less tolerant of high VDIMM. Even if the RAM modules are actively cooled, additional voltage only serves to accelerate RAM deterioration, so a lot of care must be used in testing VDIMM increases when overclocking RAM or tightening the timings.


----------



## thlnk3r

Joe, thanks for the response


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Prego.









Lunch on you next time would be good, though.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Prego.









Lunch on you next time would be good, though.









Joe, no worries! Actually this time it is my turn









Wow I'm surprised Blitz didn't jump on my question...he must be involved in a serious COD4 skirmish


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I refused to join him tonight. I've got some work to do on my pets here.


----------



## General_Chris

Heres my AMD Athlon


----------



## SerenityKill3r

Hey, Welcome,

Fill out your system specs in the User CP ^^ Up There








enjoy your stay at OCN


----------



## General_Chris

thanks serenitykill3r i got my specs in my user CP


----------



## Blitz6804

I swear General Chris, we will add you to the roster shortly. I need to rework the roster yet before I can add you.

You will be in the next update, I can promise that.

Booze + CoD4 = Unproductive evening for Blitz.


----------



## General_Chris

hehe you like cod4 blitz


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I swear General Chris, we will add you to the roster shortly. I need to rework the roster yet before I can add you.

You will be in the next update, I can promise that.

Booze + CoD4 = Unproductive evening for Blitz.

Well you were quite productive in COD4 though







. Seriously you're starting to get the hang of it a lot better than the other night.

And yes, I know...you've played LOTS of FPS games. But keep in mind, every one of them will be different. Different physics (player and gun), different types of weapons, etc....so it does take a little time to get used to a new game. Especially trying to play multiplayer...and ESPECIALLY when an enemy player has the name of DesertRat







.

However you're starting to become less of a "liability" as you so put it, and more of a good teammate. It also helps a LOT playing with us quite a bit, because you will start to learn each player's unique way of playing (helps to guess where they'll be).


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


My mother has the Red and Blue albums on vinyl. My collection includes those two (both are compilations) and tracks from Abbey Road and the White album.

To be perfectly honest, I can hit or miss with the Beatles. True, I have them in my playlist, it is not uncommon for me to skip over them. My friend on the other hand is a Beatles nut. At last count, I think he has over 500 MP3s. He has multiple versions of each song. Similar to me, he has Komm Gib Mir Deine Hand and Sie Liebt Dich. These are I Wanna Hold Your Hand and She Loves You, respectively, sung in German on their continental tour. He is also a big Electric Light Orchestra fan, which again, I am hit and miss with.


The Beatles have lots of different songs, which is probably why you only like some of them :\\. I also love ELO and I have a few Manfred Man songs I'm listening to







.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


(Hey Jude, Revolution, Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds, Lady Madonna, Back in the USSR, and Maxwell's Silver Hammer.)

As for tonight, it is a Pink Floyd night. The blender just finished making that frozen concoction that helps me hang on. Call of Duty anyone?


Those are probably their most popular songs, with the exception of Maxwell's Silver Hammer (and Lady Madonna is less popular than the others).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Well The Master Chief, everyone has a few skeletons in their closet.


Grateful Dead?


----------



## Blitz6804

Truckin', Casey Jones, and Touch of Gray is about the extent of my collection.

In other news: I have [email protected] up and running. PRETTY! The PS3 is still better though.


----------



## Blitz6804

In other news, my entertainment setup is presently consuming 588 Watts. Here is what it is doing:

Running my PC at 100% load on both cores (my usual gambit of applications with [email protected] & [email protected])
Running my PS3 at 100% load on [email protected]
Powering my monitor
Powering my HDMI switch
Powering my speakers
Powering my cable modem
Powering my router
Powering my d-switch
Powering my digital audio processor (in standby)
Powering my cable box (in standby)
Powering my printer (in standby)
Powering my Xbox 360 (in standby)
Powering my Xbox (in standby)
Powering my Wii (in standby)

Given current power usage, my APC UPS estimates seven minutes of battery life in the case of power failure.


----------



## The Duke

6K+ posts
Lets keep them OT and not dilute them wit the likes of Music preferences and other topics please.
Thank You


----------



## thlnk3r

General Chris, as soon as blitz get's the roster cleaned up we'll add you.

Welcome to the club


----------



## nategr8ns

Be patient GChris







, I believe the hold up is because they ran out of room in that post. Maximum characters reached or something like that.
offtopic: My favorite GD song is Friend of the Devil

maybe we should create a new thread in the off topic section titled: "ramblings of the 939 club" if, that is, Duke really won't let us talk here anymore


----------



## Blitz6804

There already is such a place, but not everyone uses it:

http://www.overclock.net/group.php?groupid=44

For a stability test, how reliable is running a pair of [email protected] clients? My CPU cores have both been reading 100% for a while now. I understand they are more flexible than actual benchmarks (can lower load as necessary) but it must count for something no?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
For a stability test, how reliable is running a pair of [email protected] clients? My CPU cores have both been reading 100% for a while now. I understand they are more flexible than actual benchmarks (can lower load as necessary) but it must count for something no?

Blitz, good questions. [email protected] does about the same as P95 and OCCT when it comes to stressing the CPU and SSE. On a percentage level I'm not exactly sure on how much it stresses the processor though. This might be a question for a [email protected] expert









Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
For a stability test, how reliable is running a pair of [email protected] clients? My CPU cores have both been reading 100% for a while now. I understand they are more flexible than actual benchmarks (can lower load as necessary) but it must count for something no?

Though I've never done any folding, I have read a few write-ups on the subject. Most writers say that [email protected] and other number-crunching programs that are part of a distributed computing project should NOT be used as a stability test per se. The reason cited is to ensure the validity of the work units produced.

The recommended procedure is to first ensure the stability of your machine, then participate in the distributed computing project. To me, this recommendation makes more sense because it should mitigate against wasting a lot of energy and time on what might turn out to be a failed work unit production.

[email protected] may stress your machine like a dedicated stress tester, but is it one? If the intent is to submit work units, then I'd have to say no.

But that's just my opinion on the matter.


----------



## Blitz6804

Oh, I was fairly certain the processor was stable. The fact that it turned out two valid work units in the span of six hours should confirm that no?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Well, stability is not a fixed condition. In my opinion, the only perfectly stable computer is one that isn't turned on. These stability tests that we're fond of using are not absolute; sooner or later, even a "stable" machine (even one that is S&M stable) will fall prey to some random miscalculation, and the whole house of cards falls apart. "Stability," as we test for it, is at best an approximation of that perfect absolute stability that no machine is ever capable of.

But back to using [email protected] as a stability test: Six hours of running [email protected] did not produce errors (i.e., did not "induce" stability), but can you guarantee the same for a longer run? Say, a twenty-four hour run at the same settings? How about a longer run? Therein lies the quandary. It's simply a case of the machine not having reached its point of failure while executing its duty.

Maybe it's a case of shifted perspective: [email protected] (or any other number-crunching application) may not TEST for stability, but it can probably DEMONSTRATE it up to a certain point. Perhaps this is mere semantics to some, but it's a fair distinction that can be made.


----------



## Blitz6804

Basically, I am trying to weasel my way out of needing to run OCCT at this speed.

I am eventually planning to go higher, but I have not gotten there yet.

My goal is to have the fastest clock that is S&M stable at stock voltage that is within my temperature tolerances. By popular demand, I think I will also try another 3 GHz shot. The question is: do I go full tilt, or pull a pair of DIMMs? Which is more impressive? *Chuckles.*

Joe: YGPM


----------



## Xyro TR1

Holy hell, this thread has gotten huge!

And I have a new graphics card and other goodies. Woo!


----------



## dietx

I have an AMD Athlon X2 2.2ghz 939 Socket. I'm a noob at finding these things, and plus its an older computer


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dietx* 
I have an AMD Athlon X2 2.2ghz 939 Socket. I'm a noob at finding these things, and plus its an older computer









Welcome dietx, if you would like to be added,post a CPUZ Validation link so it can be added to the roster. The CPU doesn't have to be overclocked to be a member.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Duke*


For starters, look at the last 24 hours. This post went to hell in a hand basket










Dont understand the problem ?? Its just good friends here , talking like we always do







Sure there were afew off topic posts but...........







.......... RULES are RULES









on a side note .. cloned my old 160gb hardrive to my new 640gb WD , USING "ACRONIS EASY MIGRATE 7.0" now it says its the same size as my old HDD , used the automatic setting







is there a way to change my partitions to match the size of my hardrive without going thru the whole process again?


----------



## Blitz6804

GParted can resize partitions. Burn as an ISO and then you use it as a boot disk.

TWO WORDS OF WARNING:
1) Windows WILL need to do a checkdisk the next time you try to boot; skipping the check may render the drive unbootable.
2) It is possible to mess up the drive if you cause GParted to crash or you exit it early; patience is the key.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Duke*


For starters, look at the last 24 hours. This post went to hell in a hand basket










Ok, I would like to put in my $0.02 here. Please don't take the entire club hostage over what I have to say....its just *MY* opinion







.

This club is pretty much a meeting place for us 939'ers. We keep on topic with 939 quite a bit, however yes...we do SOMETIMES stray off topic a bit (939 being the topic). However I do believe every single thread here at OCN gets that way at some point. It happens.

This thread has gotten nowhere NEAR as out of hand as the old "Order of the Opteron" club did. And we had never gotten into any trouble there. So what exactly is wrong here?

And to clarify...
No I don't want the club moved. I would just like a full explanation as to what's going on here. Like I said, off topic happens, but we stay on topic more often than not around here. And its not like we ignore new members, and the TOS. We give the new members a VERY warm welcome! And the TOS....man that's a religion in here!


----------



## XxXSpitfireXxX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Sure; if you can get the details of the BSOD, we may be able to help you. If you cannot read them before the PC restarts, turn off auto-restart.

Right-click "My Computer," click "Properties," click the "Advanced" tab, under "Startup and Recovery," click "Settings," then uncheck "Automatically restart."

If you want to join the club, just hook us up with a screen capture of your CPU-Z page or get a validation link from the same. CPU-Z is freeware, available from CPUID.com.


I solved the problem. I don't really know why, but suddenly, my CPU started to become unstable and I had to downclock it from 2.8 to 2.6. It's a shame. I wonder if its normal for a CPU to lose stability, it's been two years since I've got it.

Here is my CPUID Validation page : http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=392783


----------



## General_Chris

yeah and if i try to get my CPU to 2.6 ghz i get blue screens all that OMG its loading windows then when it loads my desktop it comes up with a bluescreen urghh ehhm it didnt give this bluescreen before


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *General_Chris* 
yeah and if i try to get my CPU to 2.6 ghz i get blue screens all that **** OMG its loading windows then when it loads my desktop it comes up with a bluescreen urghh ehhm it didnt give this bluescreen before

Sounds like a possible RAM issue to me. That's what I kept getting when my RAM was clocked too high.


----------



## boonie2

Yep


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *XxXSpitfireXxX*


I solved the problem. I don't really know why, but suddenly, my CPU started to become unstable and I had to downclock it from 2.8 to 2.6. It's a shame. I wonder if its normal for a CPU to lose stability, it's been two years since I've got it.

Here is my CPUID Validation page : http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=392783


Spitfire, what kind of stability tests did you run at your 2.8Ghz overclock? Perhaps at that time your OC was not stable. Have you checked your power supply to make sure it's not causing the instability? If you have a multimeter around it wouldn't hurt to check the voltages. Here is a great guide that explains this process: http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/guide...ing-guide.html.

Good luck









Quote:



Originally Posted by *General_Chris*


yeah and if i try to get my CPU to 2.6 ghz i get blue screens all that OMG its loading windows then when it loads my desktop it comes up with a bluescreen urghh ehhm it didnt give this bluescreen before


General Chris, I'd recommend running memtest if you can. Download the .iso and burn it to a CD. Make sure you boot directly to it and run tests 5 and 8. I typically run each test for about 20-30mins when testing my memory. If you can stop booting to your OS. This may or may already have caused data corruption to your operating system.

Good luck!


----------



## The Duke

Let me rephrase...
First off, I'm very proud of the membership and this group in the club in particular.
Secondly, I have no issue with some joking around and a bit of shifting OT, but keep it real. 
Why the second part, when it gets out of hand, it not only makes OCN look bad, but it also detracts from the club too. 
So, please, enjoy, share the joy and knowledge and have some fun too.









FYI, it saddens me that my power house DFI SLI DR 939 Opty 165 CAB9E is no longer in my service







At a near 3G OC with 2x1G of DDR500 GSkills, it was a great system and I too have a fond appreciation for the 939s








Further more, I still have a 146 CACJE and a 165 CCBBE with no MB worthy of the 165. Still, I do run a TForce 6100 939 with a 4400+ for folding.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Duke* 
Let me rephrase...
First off, I'm very proud of the membership and this group in the club in particular.
Secondly, I have no issue with some joking around and a bit of shifting OT, but keep it real.
Why the second part, when it gets out of hand, it not only makes OCN look bad, but it also detracts from the club too.
So, please, enjoy, share the joy and knowledge and have some fun too.









FYI, it saddens me that my power house DFI SLI DR 939 Opty 165 CAB9E is no longer in my service







At a near 3G OC with 2x1G of DDR500 GSkills, it was a great system and I too have a fond appreciation for the 939s








Further more, I still have a 146 CACJE and a 165 CCBBE with no MB worthy of the 165. Still, I do run a TForce 6100 939 with a 4400+ for folding.

The Duke, I just recently switched to a TForce 6100-939. I acquired the board from our club leader a few weeks ago. Question for you: what was the highest stable HTT that you were able to achieve? Were you able to get any applications to report the chipset temperature?

By the way thanks for clarify some confusion for us in the thread


----------



## iandroo888

ive been playing COD4 past few days. near the end i think. its pretty fun. too bad its so short.

i have suggested to txtmstrjoe for using [email protected] as a "CPU stress program" when testing stability of overclock. i think its like a first level "clearance" for me. if you cant fold, your system is hardly stable. it will detect incorrect "calculations". this is order of stability for me.

Level 1 : [email protected] (txt-based or SMP)
Level 2 : OCCT (30 min - 1 hour)
Level 3 : Orthos/Prime 95

Dang, i wanna know how much power my room is pulling. Lol. 3 full computers. 3 lcd's (17", 19", 24" WS). 42" Sharp Aquos. Printer (standby), dsl modem, 2 router/switch, 1 lightbulb (energy saving coiled whatchamacallit bulb), dishnetwork satellite reciever.

my electric bill was over $300 past month T_T


----------



## boonie2

Time to install a "Windmill"


----------



## nategr8ns

androo, those energy saver lightbulbs are filled with mercury. If it breaks, stay out of the room


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, you will not have much of a choice. Incandescent light bulbs are banned in the US as of 2014.

To find your power consumption, you can either sit down with a mutlimeter and test each running item, or you can do what I did. Open up your UPS's control panel and read current power consumption.

Regards [email protected] stability, I was simultaneously running the GUI-CPU and the GUI-GPU with my normal bag of tricks. In any event, I was running 100% load for over three hours, I am sure this clock is fine.

Now I need to find why my video drivers crash whenever I play Call of Duty 4. It has no problem running RTHDRIBL for an hour. The entire hour at 16x AA, bump map, 1920x1200x32 gives me a GPU load of 98%. Load temps do not exceed 63Âº C.

Play Call of Duty, and the video driver will periodically decide it is going to go south in a big way despite it only loading the GPU around 70%. This happens even at stock settings. Other games appear to be fine, but I have not played many since getting the new card.

In other news, I am planning a massive food/drink/LAN party for the club. Everyone must start saving up for gas and/or plane tickets to get here. The planned date is September 3rd of next year. That should give everyone enough time to save.


----------



## boonie2

Im In


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Some Club-related business (I'll make this somewhat brief, as the work sched is a bit suffocating of late):

I know I said this sometime last week, but here's an update: An announcement on our Stock Cooler OCing Contest is imminent. Expect it by the end of this week (Sunday). There are just a couple of small details that need some kind of resolution, but the Club officers' schedules have not been too friendly with each other. I thank you for your continued patience.









Second, we all must remember that, while we are part of the S939 Appreciation Club, we are also part of a larger community at large (namely, OCN). Consequently, we are obligated to observe certain rules and ways of doing things that are simply part of the way things are done here. We joined OCN willingly, agreeing to follow the rules its leadership have established, so we are honor-bound to do so. Some rules are specifically codified; others are not written anywhere but are accepted as a matter of course because that is how things have come to be. But two rules we must always be mindful of are 1) There is a right way of doing things, and by definition a wrong way as well, and 2) We must never do or say anything that will discredit OCN or our group, or bring it the wrong kind of attention. If we keep these things in mind, we'll continue to thrive.

If anyone has any questions or concerns and you feel uncomfortable with bringing it up with a moderator, PM me and I will be more than happy to help out.







I will reply back and do what I can.

Lastly, my apologies for not updating our roster. This is entirely MY fault; our Club secretary has done a good job with the roster refresh, but I am having some issues with implementing it. I will be talking to Blitz soon about this.

That's all I've got, guys and gal.

- Joe


----------



## thlnk3r

Joe, looking forward to the announcement on Sunday. I have my DFI board prepped and ready


----------



## nategr8ns

I wish I could use my DFI board for the competition








I have pulled a CMOS battery out of an old gateway and I'm going to try using that (its about 3.1-3.2V so I'm good.)
this weekend I'll see what I can do with it


----------



## boonie2

Hopefully that will work , sounds just like the problem I had , battery replacement worked for me ... good luck


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Well, you will not have much of a choice. Incandescent light bulbs are banned in the US as of 2014.

To find your power consumption, you can either sit down with a mutlimeter and test each running item, or you can do what I did. Open up your UPS's control panel and read current power consumption.

Regards [email protected] stability, I was simultaneously running the GUI-CPU and the GUI-GPU with my normal bag of tricks. In any event, I was running 100% load for over three hours, I am sure this clock is fine.

Now I need to find why my video drivers crash whenever I play Call of Duty 4. It has no problem running RTHDRIBL for an hour. The entire hour at 16x AA, bump map, 1920x1200x32 gives me a GPU load of 98%. Load temps do not exceed 63Âº C.

Play Call of Duty, and the video driver will periodically decide it is going to go south in a big way despite it only loading the GPU around 70%. This happens even at stock settings. Other games appear to be fine, but I have not played many since getting the new card.

In other news, I am planning a massive food/drink/LAN party for the club. Everyone must start saving up for gas and/or plane tickets to get here. The planned date is September 3rd of next year. That should give everyone enough time to save.

i dont have a UPS unfortunately. trying to find someone with that kill-a-watt or whatever plug in thing to use. that might show. iunoe.

party? club? what what what? what happening?

eh. question about the competition, can the rig be a workbench setup? or must be in a case?


----------



## Blitz6804

As promised, General_Chris, tonkoshala, and XxXSpitfireXxX; you are now on the roster!


----------



## boonie2

What about my 175 addition?


----------



## Blitz6804

Oops? Got link?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Roster fixed.

TYVM to "Red Dog." (Football players will know the reference.)


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Duke*


Let me rephrase...
First off, I'm very proud of the membership and this group in the club in particular.
Secondly, I have no issue with some joking around and a bit of shifting OT, but keep it real. 
Why the second part, when it gets out of hand, it not only makes OCN look bad, but it also detracts from the club too. 
So, please, enjoy, share the joy and knowledge and have some fun too.









FYI, it saddens me that my power house DFI SLI DR 939 Opty 165 CAB9E is no longer in my service







At a near 3G OC with 2x1G of DDR500 GSkills, it was a great system and I too have a fond appreciation for the 939s








Further more, I still have a 146 CACJE and a 165 CCBBE with no MB worthy of the 165. Still, I do run a TForce 6100 939 with a 4400+ for folding.


I would just like to say thank you for not bringing down the BANHAMMER







! Seriously though... very well put







. I for one am in fact responsible for some of the off topic and misleading posts (cough, my random boob comments, cough). And for that, I appologize...publicly even. I wouldn't have anything to do with my computer if it weren't for OCN, and the 939 club more specifically. This really is all I ever do on my computer anymore other than a game here and there (at night). So I do appologize sincerely for myself and anybody else that won't fess up to wrong doing







. This really is a home for some of us here...and taking it away would pretty much take away our OCN privelidges, and that's no fun.

Also....how well do those two Opties do? Just out of curiousity of course since I'm almost always flat broke. But it is fun to learn how different steppings are able to clock







.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


ive been playing COD4 past few days. near the end i think. its pretty fun. too bad its so short.

i have suggested to txtmstrjoe for using [email protected] as a "CPU stress program" when testing stability of overclock. i think its like a first level "clearance" for me. if you cant fold, your system is hardly stable. it will detect incorrect "calculations". this is order of stability for me.

...........


First Paragraph:
Now you need to join us and play in my server







. Its a WHOLE DIFFERENT GAME than single player...and you never know, you might like it. It really is a blast when you're playing with good friends....and we'd love to have you join us.

Second:
I personally would have to argue with you on using [email protected] for stability testing. Yes it does use your CPU...however nothing a simple 20-30 minute run of OCCT or Orthos wouldn't turn up anyway. To me, testing stability comes when using one of those two programs (going to try S&M after our contest is done). If its not stable with one of those for 30 minutes, I up the volts, and try again. If it is, I let it go for 24+ hours (try to). If it passes, I consider that as stable as she'll get.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


...............
In other news, I am planning a massive food/drink/LAN party for the club. Everyone must start saving up for gas and/or plane tickets to get here. The planned date is September 3rd of next year. That should give everyone enough time to save.


I'd be in if I could afford a plane ticket for two to get there. If it were closer we could probably drive, however then there's lodging issues. If I somehow come up with a few grand....we're in. But until then, I'm sorry bud, but I think we'll have to pass based off financial issues







. Nothing personal as you know...we'd LOVE to go. And don't tell us to quit smoking.....that still wouldn't save enough money by that time anway, not off my income.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


.....


Just let me know via PM, email, IM....what's happening







. I haven't heard any new news or updates on our little contest. Since I am one of the officers attempting to throw this together, I'd kinda like to know what's going on with it







. Get ahold of me as soon as possible with any updates. BTW...I work most likely the rest of the week through Sunday at least. You know my hours by now, lol.


----------



## The Duke

thlmk3r: 0n the 6100 939. Actaully, I have two of them. One had not been a very frendly OCer and crashed out a lot even with somewhat conservative OCing. The other, I never pushed that far and keep a conservative OC to fold on it. So, frankly, I don't have much to offer you on it.

Pioneers: Both steppings are actually rather good, both attained a 2900 range OC when they were in the DFI SLI DR with the DDR 500 GSkills which I still have.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
I wish I could use my DFI board for the competition








I have pulled a CMOS battery out of an old gateway and I'm going to try using that (its about 3.1-3.2V so I'm good.)
this weekend I'll see what I can do with it









Nate, what kind of problems were you having with your DFI? Sorry I can't recall the issues.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Nate, what kind of problems were you having with your DFI? Sorry I can't recall the issues.


will not boot correctly. Always gets stuck with 3 diagnostic LEDs on: Found processor but searching for memory (it can't find the memory). I have tried with my opty, 3700+ (single core), G.Skill 500HZs, and Corsair Valueselect 400s.
in double and single sticks. When single, always in the required slot to boot the first time.


----------



## Blitz6804

Interesting problem fellow Skt939ers, maybe someone can help.

I am using DOSBox to emulate DOS 5.0. In DOS 5.0, I installed Windows 3.1. When I mount a floppy drive as Drive A, DOS has no problems seeing it, but Windows is a blank. I can mount the floppy as a hard drive (Drive D) and Windows will see it. Why does it not work as Drive A? (It is a 3.5" HD FDD.) When I do not mount Drive A explicitly, then Windows sees a Drive A, but cannot access it.

Furthermore, is there anyway to stop DOSBox from reading a drive on mount? I want my Floppy and CD drives to have persistent auto-mounts, but at present, unless there is media in the drive, all three give me error messages. They will work, but it is annoying to have to clear the error messages before I can use it.


----------



## nategr8ns

so you installed an operating system within an emulator? I don't really understand what you wrote :x
there must be some way to turn autorun off. I know with XP there is a downloadable tweak.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
will not boot correctly. Always gets stuck with 3 diagnostic LEDs on: Found processor but searching for memory (it can't find the memory). I have tried with my opty, 3700+ (single core), G.Skill 500HZs, and Corsair Valueselect 400s.
in double and single sticks. When single, always in the required slot to boot the first time.

Nate, try pushing both buttons (power and reset) down and then only releasing your finger off the power button. Keep your finger on the reset button for about 10-15 seconds and then release it? Sorry if that sounds confusing. Try the buttons on the board itself.
I'm sure you already reset the CMOS ect. Just for kicks have you tried a different power supply? Is the board POSTing at all when it's stuck at 3 LEDS? I had this same issue a while back. Turned out my Seasonic 500HT PSU was faulty and causing the problem.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I know you are only using one graphic card, but for fun and giggles, have you tried plugging cables into the FDD and Molex connectors? The molex connector is right above the Northbridge and the FDD is right below the socket. According to the manual, these cables are not necessary, but recommended for max stability. (See page 61 of the English version.)

Further, you are using the 20-to-24 pin ATX adapter I hope?


----------



## nategr8ns

yes blitz I am using all cables, but nononono I am not using an adapter. Just a real 24pin for me. (I've heard that certain motherboards actually need a 24-pin and not a 20-pin with adapter)

thinker, I only have this PSU to try, but I may be able to steal my dad's Antec EarthWatts 430 (doubtfully, but I may give it a shot if I have to).

So things to try: New battery, both-buttons+release power, new PSU.


----------



## Blitz6804

I looked up your power supply. Supposedly, it is only 20-pin without using the included adapter; this is why I asked.

Furthermore, are you reading LEDs in the proper order? The manual reads:

System Startup: 4
CPU Detected: 3
DRAM Detected: 2
VGA Detected: 1
System Bootup: 0

Does it add LEDs or take them away? If it adds LEDs, you are stuck after the CPU. (If it takes them away, then yes, your RAM is messing things up.)

Also, make sure if you are using an external case speaker that you disable the internal buzzer.

EDIT: Speaking of the case speaker/internal buzzer, do you get any beep codes when you boot? A beep, a pause, and then three fast beeps is a video card error. A single long beep is a DRAM error. If you receive neither, I would suggest double checking that the CPU is completely inserted into the socket. I know that the Abit required a good bit more persuasion to get it into the socket than the Gigabyte did; perhaps it is the same with DFI versus MSI.

EDIT (again): I found more info online. As I suspected, the LEDs start at all four and subtract as the system boots. Thus, it is in fact your memory giving you the issue. You should have a long beep during boot in theory. Check for me; when you turn the system on, does the DRAM LED light? It should be next to the 4-pin +12V power connector.


----------



## nategr8ns

it takes away. Also, being stuck after the CPU is the same as the RAM messing things up









I'm pretty sure the CPU is socketed (Diablo II word? FF says spelled wrong







) correctly.
No beep codes using the onboard speaker (turned on via jumper). I may have to use an external speaker though, and I have one in the basement I can try if I need to.

So things to try: New battery, both-buttons+release power, addon case speaker, new PSU.


----------



## boonie2

My moneys on the battery replacement







{fingers crossed} G/L


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
it takes away. Also, being stuck after the CPU is the same as the RAM messing things up









I'm pretty sure the CPU is socketed (Diablo II word? FF says spelled wrong







) correctly.
No beep codes using the onboard speaker (turned on via jumper). I may have to use an external speaker though, and I have one in the basement I can try if I need to.

So things to try: New battery, both-buttons+release power, addon case speaker, new PSU.

Nate, are you getting beep codes with no memory installed on the motherboard? If the LED's are disappearing after the power is toggled on then that is a good sign.

Good luck


----------



## nategr8ns

saturday I'm going to try all these things. I don't have an extra PSU atm so I can't test the DFI while keeping a working computer.
I'll check for beep codes without memory. If I get codes, I will try with the memory in. If I don't, I will add the extra speaker and disable the onboard speaker.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
saturday I'm going to try all these things. I don't have an extra PSU atm so I can't test the DFI while keeping a working computer.
I'll check for beep codes without memory. If I get codes, I will try with the memory in. If I don't, I will add the extra speaker and disable the onboard speaker.

Nate, are you sure you can't try your Dad's Antec? This would be nice to know so we could eliminate that component from our troubleshooting list.

Good luck


----------



## nategr8ns

saturday maybe, I have to ask him and make sure he's not using it.


----------



## Blitz6804

To Thlnk3r, and anyone else who has or had a 3850:

What PCI-E voltage should I have? I am starting to wonder if that is the source of my GPU's load instability.


----------



## Anqt31

@blitz - If you tell me where I can find the voltage, I'll tell you.

@everyone else, does anyone have any idea what the Trfc ram timing does?


----------



## Blitz6804

It is in everest ultimate for one. Under Computer > Sensor, look for "PCI Express."

tRC/tRFC were my holy grails to getting the Gigabyte to POST over a 254 HTT. Looser is better for stability.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


It is in everest ultimate for one. Under Computer > Sensor, look for "PCI Express."


Blitz, what is the voltage that Everest is displaying for your 3850?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


@everyone else, does anyone have any idea what the Trfc ram timing does?


Anqt, *tRFC Timing: Row Refresh Cycle Timing*. _This determines the amount of cycles to refresh a row on a memory bank. If this is set too short it can cause corruption of data and if it is too high, it will cause a loss in performance, but increased stability._

Source: Memory Timings Explained.

Hope that helps!


----------



## Blitz6804

According to Everest, PCI-E voltage is 1.2 V. I am trying 1.3 V now to see if that fixes anything.

And I have good news and bad news for the club. The bad:

Try as I might, my old silver lady will not get me into the 1 GHz OC Club. With Thlnk3r egging me on, I even tried an uncharacteristic 1.800 V VCore, a 3.000 V DDRV, and a 2.000 V NBV. Couple this with 2 GB of RAM running at 3-5-5-10 running at DDR 386, and you still cannot make it POST.

The good news, I finally broke 30s in SuperPi. I was fiddling for the highest OC I could get that would run SuperPi. Any OC higher than this either crashes or runs OC super-30s.

As you can see below, I am running an uncharacteristic voltage for me of nearly 1.6 V:









The CPU-Z validation link

Needless to say I was flabbergasted at me finally breaking (significantly) over 3.0 GHz, as my Gigabyte could just barely squeak by.

This got me curious. Could I replicate the feat with four DIMMs of RAM instead of two? As Joe always says, "Testing, testing, testing!" So, I dropped those DIMMs back in and fired her back up. What would you know?









The CPU-Z validation link

Needless to say I am elated to see that she could do it. Temps idle were 45/50Âº C. Running SuperPi, about 51/54Âº C.

Right now, I have dropped my VCore back to 1.380 V, and am resuming experimentation to get my new S&M/24-7 stable settings going. Since I know that the RAM will never run at DDR 500 with four DIMMs (but apparently DDR 444 is not unheard of) I am going for tighter timings instead. I am running sub-SPD timings of 2-3-2-6-2T-11-17 @ DDR 401, 2.82 V to see what will become of it.

(This post is cross-posted in my thread.)


----------



## iandroo888

oh my god. 1.58v. lol lucky with low ambient temps. would never work in vegas. lol


----------



## Blitz6804

1.540 V with four DIMMs. Same BIOS setting, but you can see a bigger droop.

Whats interesting with either is that the BIOS is set to 1.525 V.

For the record, ambients are 22.2Âº C.


----------



## Blitz6804

More good news and bad news:

The good: My GA-K8NSC-939 has returned from RMA
The bad: They apparently destroyed my factory motherboard box; it came home in a GA-K8NS-Ultra box
The good: The board appears to be working again; as does my San Diego
The outstanding: I cannot, for the life of me, get this chip above 40Âº C
The atomic-failure: The processor will not POST at anything more than 2400 MHz. Yes, even at 1.600 V (max for my board if I remember right)


----------



## nategr8ns

that sucks blitz... is it the processor or motherboard?!?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
The atomic-failure: The processor will not POST at anything more than 2400 MHz. Yes, even at 1.600 V (max for my board if I remember right)

Blitz, what is the maximum HTT (reference clock) on that motherboard? Did you supply any chipset voltage? Did you receive the same K8NSC-939 or is it a different one?

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I got back my K8NSC-939; the serial numbers match. The highest HTT I have successfully ran with my Toledo was 274. Yes, I applied the max chipset voltage available to me (+0.2V).

The motherboard is already back in its box awaiting a rainy day.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Sub-Zero, your experience puts the lie to the oft-repeated claim (back in the halcyon days of S939) that "all San Diegos are outstanding overclockers." Considering the same motherboard sustained a very healthy overclock with a Toledo, I'm inclined to think the San Diego is a much more stubborn CPU.

Sorry I haven't been around, guys and gal. A virus has infected me (not my computer) and made vertical moments difficult to maintain.


----------



## Blitz6804

Or, it was not fully fixed, a contention I would believe given the last repair job.


----------



## boonie2

So thats 3 repairs total on it? ouch


----------



## Anqt31

Hey guys, I have been experimenting with my Trc timings. They are stock at 16, I used 3Dmark03 and compared them at 16 to 8. Look at my results.

Here's @ 16








Here's what I was surprised with @ 8









So Trc timings do make a difference. In 3dmark03, this was almost 18,000 points. I suspect in 3dmark06, this would be a 2000-3000 point jump.
Also, my processor was @ 2.6Ghz (1.4V) and my ram was running @ 400Mhz


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Good bit of testing there, Anqt!


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


So thats 3 repairs total on it? ouch


Two actually

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


So Trc timings do make a difference. In 3dmark03, this was almost 18,000 points. I suspect in 3dmark06, this would be a 2000-3000 point jump.
Also, my processor was @ 2.6Ghz (1.4V) and my ram was running @ 400Mhz


Yeah, there is a massive effect on performance even though you would never think that there would be. On the other hand though, there is also a massive effect on stability. The "ideal" setting for tRC is tRAS+tRP, while tRFC should be tRC +2, +3, or +4. When my RAM was in the process of going south, the only thing that kept it running was ultra-loose tRC/tRFC. I also found that my tRC/tRFC being too tight is what was preventing me from hitting HTTs higher than 255 on the Gigabyte. Only when they were dropped to 19/22 (respectively) could I hit my 3007 MHz suicide run.

That has since been dwarfed by my Abit's run, but the point still stands.


----------



## Anqt31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Yeah, there is a massive effect on performance even though you would never think that there would be. On the other hand though, there is also a massive effect on stability. The "ideal" setting for tRC is tRAS+tRP, while tRFC should be tRC +2, +3, or +4. When my RAM was in the process of going south, the only thing that kept it running was ultra-loose tRC/tRFC. I also found that my tRC/tRFC being too tight is what was preventing me from hitting HTTs higher than 255 on the Gigabyte. Only when they were dropped to 19/22 (respectively) could I hit my 3007 MHz suicide run.

That has since been dwarfed by my Abit's run, but the point still stands.

I have found that the tRC setting is perfectly stable @ 8 anywhere up to about 460mhz. After that, I am having to move the tRC back up to 12.


----------



## Blitz6804

460 MHz = 230 HTT yes? My rig was stable at tRC = 11 up until 255; at which point, it needed to be 19 or higher. (It was stable at less than 220 at tRC = 9; never tried it lower.)


----------



## nategr8ns

blitz, have you benched and in-game tested the difference between 255 @ tRC-11 and 220 @ tRC-9? I'm very curious now...


----------



## Blitz6804

I have not no. Further, it would be impossible to try as my CPU is now loaded into the Abit and as I said, the San Diego cannot handle any HTT over 218; it simply will not POST.

Maybe I will try some experiments on the Abit later, but first, I still need to declare it S&M stable.


----------



## Anqt31

I will attempt some tests, but unfortunately, as I only have DDR400 OC'd to DDR500, I don't think that I will be able to get that high! I really need to "re-obtain" some DDR500. Anyone have any 512MB sticks that they would be willing to part with?


----------



## Blitz6804

I do not, but you know what I would like to see Anqt31? I would love to see you slap an S&M Stable in your sig; have a chance to run it yet?

For the record, I have started it now. Hopefully, you will not hear from it until tomorrow morning; if you hear about it earlier, that means it crashed.

Hey Joe, GuardianOdin, think we can suggest to moderation about getting an S&M-Stable post-bit? That would be cool!


----------



## Anqt31

I will post the S&M results tomorrow evening. I will do the run @ 2600Mhz, with ram @ 460mhz, and timings 3-3-3-8 and tRC 8.


----------



## Blitz6804

Be forewarned: it will get your CPU hotter than any other benchmark test. OCCTv2 comes close, but S&M is still higher.

In other news; you just have to love K8s. At full load, my Athlon is reading 46Âº C right now during the S&M, L2 cache test.

My laptop, running a DVD and some IM programs, is reading 55Âº C. Intel FTL?

In more other news: I am still looking for a job. This would come with bittersweet consequences. On one hand, I will not be sitting around bored with life. Further, I would likely have spending cash. The disadvantage is that if I get cash, I intend to spend it. I just priced out a PC for a fuzz over $6500 that I would get when I have the cash. As you could imagine, it is not 939, and if I got it, I would either be selling this rig or make it a dedicated folder.


----------



## podge

hay everybody, just wondering if someone can give me some tips on oc'ing an athlon 3200, ive managed to get it to 2.2 (stock 2ghz) but it wont go no higher.
ive heard several reports of people geting it to 2.7, 2.8.
Any ideas?
Thanks


----------



## Blitz6804

When you say it will not go any higher, do you mean it simply will not POST above 2200, or that it will, but is very unstable in Windows? If the latter, what sort of temperatures do you get at 2200? I do not see a power supply in your signature, what model and wattage is it?


----------



## podge

above 2.2 it blue screens in windows


----------



## podge

temps are below 34 no matter what


----------



## Blitz6804

What RAM do you have? Have you remembered to put the RAM on a lower divider? Unless you have DDR 500 RAM, you will likely need to drop the RAM to a 200:166 divider. This will make the RAM ~183 (DDR 367). If you have Value RAM, it is more likely that you will need to loosen the divider.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Sounds to me like your memory is too high. Drop it down to the 166MHz divider and try again







. That's the same problem I have when I run my RAM too high.


----------



## podge

nice one!! got it to 2.3







, gota check if its stable, thanks


----------



## Blitz6804

Congrats Podge. As soon as you get a clock you are happy with, make sure you post a CPU-Z validation link and we will add you to the Roster!


----------



## podge

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=394689


----------



## Blitz6804

Nice job Podge. I am adding you to the off-site roster as soon as my desktop is done with S&M. Joe will add you to the on-site as soon as he gets off sick-time.

If you would like to squeeze out a few more megahertz, you will likely need to drop your Hypertransport multiplier (5x230 = 1150; K8's work best around 1000) and loosen your memory timings a bit (consider perhaps 3-3-3-8). Best of luck to you no matter what you try!


----------



## Blitz6804

When you get a chance Joe, could you please update the Roster for me as well? The new CPU-Z validation number is 394701.








.

Max temperature obtained was 60Âº C on the high core. It only briefly appeared, more often fluttering between 58 and 59Âº C.

I will be updating the off-site for myself and Podge right now. Also note, that for all S&M stable rigs, I am also adding a picture of the stability, since the only size limit I have is the reasonableness of bandwidth. I have pictures of mine and GuardianOdin's, but I do not remember yours Joe. Would you be so kind as to hit me up with the Thread post that has it? If not, would you please repost the image? Danke.

EDIT: Nevermind Joe. I found your link. Off-site roster is updated; welcome aboard Podge!


----------



## iandroo888

i was lookin around the folding stats.. and i noticed.. GuardianOdin has a score of 99999. 1 rank above me >.<" Thought he said he was gonna keep it at 939 XD


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
i was lookin around the folding stats.. and i noticed.. GuardianOdin has a score of 99999. 1 rank above me >.<" Thought he said he was gonna keep it at 939 XD

and still moving up! I think someone suggested I keep it at 939. Who knew GPU folding was so darn good!


----------



## Blitz6804

And I am somewhere way down there in the basement; that is, not enough yet to place. I'll get up with you guys eventually.


----------



## iandroo888

aww cheater guardianodin. mine all cpu folding.. i dont have good gpu to fold T_T


----------



## vwgti

Just wanted to say hi guys. I feel lonely minus the 939 setup. My club aint picking up all that well, but atleast Im a tester and keep throwing new results down.


----------



## nategr8ns

hey vdub








I don't think the club idea really works with one of the more mainstream sockets... Too many people.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


aww cheater guardianodin. mine all cpu folding.. i dont have good gpu to fold T_T


How not? My laptop can fold.

*Looks through systems.*

Oh, your best video card is an nVidia 7600. To think; you ragged on me for having AGP...

OOH! RAMDAC is reading the thread! HI RAMDAC!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Alright you 4GB of RAM guys.....I need your assistance!

I've got some Corsair XMS??? (from Blitz) that I will be tinkering with tonight. I'd LIKE to be able to run 4GB of RAM. I'd be overclocking to 333 x 9 (3.0GHz), with the RAM @ 166MHz (stability reasons). However I cannot run 4 sticks in my rig...PERIOD! I don't know why. Can somebody (maybe even one who DOES run 4GB) tell me what setting(s) to adjust for 4GB?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

G.O. and pio, please check your email. There are some rather important messages there that require your attention as soon as possible.









Thanks.


----------



## nategr8ns

Competition Competition Competition!


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I've got some Corsair XMS??? (from Blitz) that I will be tinkering with tonight. I'd LIKE to be able to run 4GB of RAM. I'd be overclocking to 333 x 9 (3.0GHz), with the RAM @ 166MHz (stability reasons). However I cannot run 4 sticks in my rig...PERIOD! I don't know why. Can somebody (maybe even one who DOES run 4GB) tell me what setting(s) to adjust for 4GB?

When you say you cannot run it 'PERIOD,' what do you mean? CPU at 200x9, RAM at DDR 333 3-3-3-8 @ 2.5 V? Four memory DIMMs put a massive strain on your processor's memory controller, and you should expect generally lower RAM clocks and looser timings than a two-stick configuration.

If you cannot work at stock, try testing one stick at a time with memtest. If all four DIMMs check out, take any one of them, and try each slot. If all four slots check out, we may have some problems.

Also consider loosening your tRC and tRFC by a little bit. Try about 3-4 units of change.


----------



## Anqt31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Alright you 4GB of RAM guys.....I need your assistance!

I've got some Corsair XMS??? (from Blitz) that I will be tinkering with tonight. I'd LIKE to be able to run 4GB of RAM. I'd be overclocking to 333 x 9 (3.0GHz), with the RAM @ 166MHz (stability reasons). However I cannot run 4 sticks in my rig...PERIOD! I don't know why. Can somebody (maybe even one who DOES run 4GB) tell me what setting(s) to adjust for 4GB?


Try loosening the timings. Set it so that it is 3-4-4-8. Also, move the ram down to 133Mhz


----------



## timxirish

Been fiddling with the idea of upgrading HD & RAM on my macbook lately and thought of OCN, and specifically this club







.. Dropping by to say hi, and that I'm not dead... yet. >_>

As far as my Lanparty nF4 ultra-d rig goes, the egg's got the 2x 1GB OCZ Platinum DDR for pretty darn cheap.. ~$50 after instant & rebate, so I jumped on that offer and will be receiving it sometime later this week. Does this mean my Lanparty rig gets 3GB? Hell no!







, i'm tossing the old ram into my mATX machine, which as of current is only missing a PSU before it can be considered complete. It's a Biostar Tforce6100-939, so technically gfx is already covered (integrated geforce 6100), but eventually it'll be getting my Radeon X800 when I decide to upgrade my lanparty rig.

Oh.. and as for that dead chipset fan the lanparty board had? Well i decided to be LAME and bought the small evercool replacement fan. It'll do, and so will my Tt Blue Orb II for now... Later I'll think about better cooling.. and most importantly, better OC'ing







.

Hope all is well here at OCN.. And hopefully I'll do a better job at remembering to pay this forum a visit. It's a nice community.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Thought you guys might like to see what my Manny is up to lately. So here's the specs. Please comment on my ideas. I need to know if I'm choosing the parts correctly and matching the higher parts with the higher parts....and not mixing the better stuff with the lower stuff (if that makes sense). Anyways, check my link out, and read it, and tell me what you guys think. Especially those that know HTPC stuff.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Sorry for the double post. However I just pulled my OCZ DDR500 sticks out, put Blitz's old Corsair XMS DDR400 in (stock timings of 2-3-3-6-2T). Immediately POSTed at 400 with 2-3-2-5-1T timings. Went to BIOS and said, what the hell? Went to 2-2-2-5-1T timings. POST'ed and booted to windows even!!!! MY OCZ sticks couldn't even POST at those settings!!! So after a few minutes of stressing, i'll try 1.5-2-2-5-1T timings (tightest I can go).

It seems my RAM woes have been solved! It was just the OCZ's aren't on the "Qualified Vendor's List"...so my board hated them! These XMS's seem to be working out GREAT though!!!


----------



## Jack Pepsi

I'll have to club in all my experiences with my ASUS A8V, MSI K8N Neo2 P and my CPUs...

1 x 3800+

1 x Opteron 170

... I'll have to come back to this as I'm at work now and don't have all the details at hand.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jack Pepsi* 
I'll have to club in all my experiences with my ASUS A8V, MSI K8N Neo2 P and my CPUs...

1 x 3800+

1 x Opteron 170

... I'll have to come back to this as I'm at work now and don't have all the details at hand.










Jack, as soon as you post up your CPU-Z validation link we can add you to the roster


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Sorry for the double post. However I just pulled my OCZ DDR500 sticks out, put Blitz's old Corsair XMS DDR400 in (stock timings of 2-3-3-6-2T). Immediately POSTed at 400 with 2-3-2-5-1T timings. Went to BIOS and said, what the hell? Went to 2-2-2-5-1T timings. POST'ed and booted to windows even!!!! MY OCZ sticks couldn't even POST at those settings!!! So after a few minutes of stressing, i'll try 1.5-2-2-5-1T timings (tightest I can go).

It seems my RAM woes have been solved! It was just the OCZ's aren't on the "Qualified Vendor's List"...so my board hated them! These XMS's seem to be working out GREAT though!!!

I am runing my cheapo DDR400 @ 260Mhz 3-4-3-8 1T and its going great for 2 weeks.


----------



## Jack Pepsi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *th1nk3r*
Jack, as soon as you post up your CPU-Z validation link we can add you to the roster









Excellent! I don't have one for my 2.82GHz OC as I didn't validate it (stupidly) but I'll upload it mine as soon as I've got time to about with my 'new' MSI board. It's having a few issues with my RAM and I haven't been able to OC it properly as my GF has been at mine for a while, but once she's home next week I'll have a bash and hopefully upload something then once I get a stable OC.










This is all I have at the moment...


----------



## Blitz6804

Congrats on that 3850 AGP Jack Pepsi. Mine apparently did not much care for me, the best I could make it do was 709/939. Did you volt-mod yours? (Yes, I know my sig shows PCI-E, but I only upgraded last month.) I am adding you to the off-site roster now, Joe will add you to the on-site likely tonight.


----------



## thlnk3r

Jack, that is a very nice 3DMark06 score for an AGP card. Great job


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*


I am runing my cheapo DDR400 @ 260Mhz 3-4-3-8 1T and its going great for 2 weeks.










Oh you just wait and see what I've got these XMS's running at







.

Seriously. To all the club members who have been following my RAM woes. I'll just say this. My RAM issues have *DEFINITELY* been resolved....to say the least. Stay tuned for my stable screenshots. You guys ought to be proud (and amazed I hope). It seems I just needed RAM that was on the QVL for my board. Go figure, huh?








Seriously though......you guys just wait and see what these sticks are running at. You'll poop yourselves (ok not really....but you'll be REALLY surprised!).


----------



## nategr8ns

QVL...
quality value list? I assume compatible memory modules







.


----------



## Blitz6804

Qualified Vendor List.

I could not do anything with those Corsairs. Those have a 2.75 V requirement to do DDR 400 @ 2-3-3-6. Considering my board could put out a MAX of 2.76 V, the best I ever did was DDR 420 @ 3-4-4-8. I look forward to see what they can do on a real motherboard.


----------



## nategr8ns

wow 2 out of 3 words!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well I suppose I can let you guys in on the secret







. Here's my current settings:

325 x 9 = 2925MHz, 1.34v
1300 HT Link (4x multi....why not, right?)
166 divider puts the RAM @ 266MHz
Corsair XMS DDR400 with stock timings of 2-3-3-6-2T
*@ DDR533 with timings of 3-3-2-5-1T...YES THAT'S RIGHT...1T!!!!*

Still working stability out now. But those timings don't seem to be letting me down yet. The only thing that I'm really wrestling with is TRYING to lower vcore slighty. And my HT Link...it MIGHT just be a wee bit high. Still working on it though.

And of course, I'll provide proof once its all said and done







.

EDIT:
Forgot to add. I HAVE in fact tried tightening the other timings as well. It was a no go. Even loosened tRC and tRF all the way. Nothing. It posts and boots, but its not stable. This APPEARS to be stable thus far. Nothing tighter will go though







.


----------



## Blitz6804

Surprising what you can do with a little DDRV no? On that note, what are you at Pio? 2.85 V? Have you tried higher?


----------



## nategr8ns

holy crap!


----------



## Blitz6804

Question for everyone here:

What is the craziest thing you've ever done to your 939 CPUs? I will start:

I tried putting 1.800 V on air to try to make it POST at 291x11 (3201). Blame Thlnk3r.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Question for everyone here:

What is the craziest thing you've ever done to your 939 CPUs? I will start:

I tried putting 1.800 V on air to try to make it POST at 291x11 (3201). Blame Thlnk3r.

Craziest thing I've ever done to a 939 CPU....see sig (not sig rig, but my sig). Enough said.


----------



## Blitz6804

I am aware about your 3266 MHz run. What VCore did you use? What did it idle at? Could you get it to load any amount? Temperatures!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I am aware about your 3266 MHz run. What VCore did you use? What did it idle at? Could you get it to load any amount? Temperatures!

Vcore I used was 1.75v. Don't remember for sure what BIOS I was running at that time, but it helped with overvolting to the extreme for some reason. Anymore I can't even pass 1.65v???

It idled at 98*C on the warmer core (cooler was 87ish). Load? Why do you think I'm STUPID enough to put a load on that kind of heat, lol? The most load that run got was running FireFox and CPUz, lol.


----------



## Blitz6804

I think it is time for you to reinvest in watercooling before trying that again. 98Âº C on a CPU designed for 65Âº C is just INSANE.

You have me beat.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

SoCal S939ers, did you all feel our nice little shaker just now?









@ pio: Good job on that RAM! Would you happen to know what ICs that Corsair set has?

@ Blitz: I've not been able to do the necessary roster updates; could you please prepare the information and PM the same to me so I can perform the update later? My eternal gratitude is yours, of course.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Nope, sorry joe. I have absolutely NO clue what IC's these chips have. Blitz might though. After all, they are his hand-me-downs







.


----------



## justedbin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


SoCal S939ers, did you all feel our nice little shaker just now?










FoSho, that shizbots woke me up... and my cat.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Nope, sorry joe. I have absolutely NO clue what IC's these chips have. Blitz might though. After all, they are his hand-me-downs







.


Nope, sorry. I even stumped Thlnker:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Ah ha! I found a raw version of the scan.

They are version 8.1 as shown below:











Blitz, I couldn't find anything on xms3202v8.1 in terms of IC's =\\


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Whats the Speed in MB of your ram Pio?


----------



## Blitz6804

Pioneer went to bed since my RAM kept him up all night; should be back in a few hours. To answer your question, the RAM should be reading 270 MHz in the BIOS, that is, 325*166/200 ≈ 270. In the OS it drops to 266 due to various conversions going on, that is, 325*9/11 ≈ 266.


----------



## justedbin

look for your RAM's chip here


----------



## Blitz6804

We've looked Justedbin. They stop at V 6.1 (Mosel Vitelic 5ns); 8.1 is conspicuously absent.

Only way to know for sure is to pull the heatsinks.


----------



## boonie2

Nice work with the Corsairs PIO


----------



## The Duke

Quote:



Originally Posted by *justedbin*


look for your RAM's chip here


So, why is it so many people don't look at the Stickies?


----------



## Jack Pepsi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Congrats on that 3850 AGP Jack Pepsi. Mine apparently did not much care for me, the best I could make it do was 709/939. Did you volt-mod yours?


I haven't no, but I'm not ruling that option out if saving for my Bloomfield based set up takes longer than I expect.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*

I am adding you to the off-site roster now, Joe will add you to the on-site likely tonight.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *th1nk3r*

Jack, that is a very nice 3DMark06 score for an AGP card. Great job


Cheers guys! I bought this K8N as it uses the same chipset as my Shuttle SN95G5 and I managed to OC my 3800+ to 2.7GHz on 1.29v so I thought it'd be better on a full, ATX motherboard. I was wrong, I'm having some teething issues at the moment and haven't really had time about with it as of yet. I'll keep you posted.










Oh and I will reach 10K in ePenis06.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Duke*


So, why is it so many people don't look at the Stickies?










As I said The Duke, we looked. The memory we have simply is not listed.

Jack Pepsi: the only problem with the nForce 3 board: Do not attempt to install Vista. The only way to use your 3850 is to disable a CPU core.


----------



## Blitz6804

For the record: I have to learn a way to lock up my computer that it will not purchase PC parts.

I just ordered a pair of Vantec Iceberq 6's after calling Vantec and asking if it is compatible with my 3850. They swear they are.

In other news, I need to *facepalm.* When I was buying these 3850s, I had to take them over the single-slot Sapphiretech model I wanted since they were $30 cheaper each. Now the Sapphiretechs are $10 more expensive only, so I could have mounted PCI-fans under them like I had with the AGP card. Further, I am spending the money on the Vantecs anyway, so I do not know why I bother.


----------



## Jack Pepsi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Jack Pepsi: the only problem with the nForce 3 board: Do not attempt to install Vista. The only way to use your 3850 is to disable a CPU core.

I already know about the infamous Code 43, weird how VIA and SiS managed to fix the issue yet nVIDIA & ATi are too stubborn to admit they're both wrong.


----------



## Blitz6804

It is not an ATI issue, it is an nVidia issue. The nVidia Vista GART driver is specifically coded to block ATI; nVidia cards work sans-incident. The problem with nVidia is their duplicitous nature. Their press releases say they are aware of the problem and are fixing it posthaste. You contact Tech Support, and they say that it cannot be fixed and never will be. You quote the press releases from nVidia, and they tell you that whoever said that must have been mistaken. Sorry, apparently the directors of R&D and Marketing and CEO of the company must be wrong because Mr. Generic Tech says so. You point out to them that SiS and VIA had the same problem prior to a driver update, and they completely ignore you.

I have to say the whole event left me very chilled toward nVidia. If I have my way, I will never again purchase an nVidia product.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Okay, lady and gentlemen, here it is. A couple of days overdue, perhaps, but hopefully better late than never.

Exclusively for members of the OCN Socket 939 Appreciation Club and Knowledgebase, I present to you the rules package for the S939 Appreciation Club Stock Cooler Overclocking Contest!

*S939 Appreciation Club and Knowledgebase Contest - Stock Cooler Overclocking Contest*

*Rules and Regulations*

*Participation*

1. This contest is for *Skt939 Appreciation Club members only*.
2. You may only submit a *Skt939 AMD processor* for the contest; non-Skt939 or non-AMD processors are strictly prohibited.
3. Any processors you chose to enter under rule two *must be cooled by an AMD Skt939 heatsink*. You may use any stock heatsink for that processor regardless if you are using an Athlon64 or an Opteron. *The heatsink must be in full contact with the processor at all times during testing to be valid.*
4. *Minor modifications* to the heatsink are *permissible*; however, secondary or supplemental heatsinks are not. The only heat-sinking media permitted are the stock cooler and air. This invalidation includes the likes of water, ice, antifreeze, quicksilver, et cetera. *Validity of the stock heatsink is subject to the judge(s)' ruling*.
5. *No other restrictions* on entries apply other than what have been stated explicitly.
6. *This contest relies on the participants' acceptance and adherence to the Honor System*. There is nothing to gain in cheating, yet everything to lose.

*Validation of Entries*

1. A *valid entry* is defined as *an overclocked S939 CPU cooled by a S939 heatsink at all times* which *successfully completes an OCCT v.2.0.0a default test run*. The test is *a Blend test run for an hour*.
2. Entrants must provide: 1) *Digital pictures* of your *successful OCCT v.2.0.0a run AND a CPU-Z window on your screen proving completion of the test run*; 2) *A zipped file of the OCCT-generated graphs of your temperatures and voltages during the test run*; and 3) *Digital pictures of your hardware showing that you are indeed using a stock AMD S939 heatsink on your CPU*.

*Judging*

1. The *judges* shall be the *sole arbiters* insofar as the legalities of any entries are concerned.
2. *Entrants may consult with the judges* to ascertain whether or not their entry is indeed legal and valid.
3. The *judges must explain any ruling* if there are questions regarding the ruling.
4. *pioneerisloud, GuardianOdin, and Blitz6804* are *the designated judges* for this contest.

*Determining the Contest Winner*

1. The CPU that achieves *the highest frequency that also successfully fulfills the stated validations* wins the contest.

*Time Frame*

1. The contest will be held over a period of *two weeks*.
2. It will *start on 08-02-2008* and *end on 08-17-2008*. 
3. Entries submitted before or after this date are automatically disqualified.

*Notes*

This contest is simple: The CPU that hits the highest speed and completes the basic stability tests wins. How you achieve that speed is completely determined by how far you're willing to go with your overclock, whether or not you can keep it stable, and your creativity in interpreting and applying the rules to best advantage. There really is one prohibition: The CPU must be cooled by a S939 stock heatsink. Anything beyond that is completely up to you. The judge(s) is there for you so that you may consult him (they) in the event you have any ideas as to whether or not you can try something; you are encouraged to ask about any possible legal issues or questions you may have prior to participating.

So, there it is, Club S939! The rules have been issued several days before the official start of the contest to give you some time to plan strategy and to think about how to approach this engineering challenge.

We hope we have a lot of participants in this contest. All you need is a S939 stock heatsink of any type, a S939 CPU and motherboard, and your skills as an overclocker.

pioneerisloud will be starting a contest-specific thread imminently, and we will restate the rules there as well. The contest judges will be available for consultation on what is permissible and what is illegal to run in this contest.

Good luck, everyone! And have fun!


----------



## boonie2

LET THE GAMES BEGIN







GENTELMAN {and Froggy} START YOUR ENGINES







ON YOUR MARK , GET SET , GOOOOOO







1 FOR THE MONEY , 2 FOR THE SHOW , 3 TO GET READY , AND 4 TO GO GO GO









{yes , im waaaayyyy over tired {can you tell?} , just finished a double shift }









GOOD LUCK EVERYONE


----------



## Syrillian

I'm a lurker on this thread, but I did want to pipe-up and say,

"CLOCK ON!"









I look forward to lurking and watching the results of this S939 competion unfold.

(coolest club on OCN ~ imho)


----------



## Blitz6804

I would like to make known that as a degree holder in chemistry with some physics courses, I am willing to discuss my knowledge of fluidics with whoever would like to discuss the issue on an instant messenger of some flavor. You can see that I have a few different clients in my profile.

On that note, Boonie: why put your IMs in your profile if you are never signed into either?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Syrillian*


(coolest club on OCN ~ imho)


As much as I love 939, I would have to say that honor goes to the Phase Change or LN clubs.

"Coolest." Eh? Eh?!


----------



## nategr8ns

rofl blitz...








I shall be readying my 3800+, as I was able to run that at 3ghz stock cooling (not sure how stable, but it worked for day to day usage







)

no prize this time 'round?


----------



## Blitz6804

It has not been discussed to my knowledge. It may be between now and then, but we shall see.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I would like to make known that as a degree holder in chemistry with some physics courses, I am willing to discuss my knowledge of fluidics with whoever would like to discuss the issue on an instant messenger of some flavor. You can see that I have a few different clients in my profile.

On that note, Boonie: why put your IMs in your profile if you are never signed into either?

As much as I love 939, I would have to say that honor goes to the Phase Change or LN clubs.

"Coolest." Eh? Eh?!


I am signed on , maybe just not at the same time you are


----------



## pioneerisloud

I'm guessing this means now that I will not be posting the thread till Saturday, right?

And thank you everyone for the confidence in my RAM woes! My settings that I was testing ended up not stable







. It lasted 47 minutes and some change, and errored out via OCCT. So I backed off a tad, tightened timings up a bit....tried again. So far, so good.


----------



## Blitz6804

Of course, whenever you have overclocking woes, the only solution is more volts!

And when you have a fever, the only cure is more cowbell! </B-OC>


----------



## Blitz6804

I see according to your sig Podge that you are up to 2.6 GHz with your proc. Have a new link for the roster for us?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I'm guessing this means now that I will not be posting the thread till Saturday, right?










As chief steward of this contest, it depends entirely upon your discretion as to when you would like to start up the dedicated contest thread.


----------



## Blitz6804

Whatever Pioneer decides, my inboxes are free for any questions people have on the rules; I may not respond immediately, but I am on my computer around 17-hours a day, so you should not need to wait long. Lets keep contest posts out of the club thread to prevent clutter.


----------



## Blitz6804

*Copies Nate's new avvie.*


----------



## nategr8ns

mine's cooler









_and _it has a shadow!


----------



## Blitz6804

Considering I am icy... I'd say your "cooler" statement is wrong.

I will try to make a good one later; I found the first thing Google had. We gotta get Joe in on this...


----------



## nategr8ns

bump, changing CMOS battery did not help (I took a battery from another working motherboard since they were the same, tested to 3.2V)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


bump, changing CMOS battery did not help (I took a battery from another working motherboard since they were the same, tested to 3.2V)


Nate, just to confirm but did you run through this guide here: http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=325031

I posted this in a previous post and wasn't sure if you had time to check it out.

Good luck


----------



## nategr8ns

I have not tried the button thing. I remembered there was something that had to do with the buttons, but I couldn't remember what







.
I'll try the button thing and if that still won't work I'll try an old stick of RAM.

thanks thinker.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


I have not tried the button thing. I remembered there was something that had to do with the buttons, but I couldn't remember what







.
I'll try the button thing and if that still won't work I'll try an old stick of RAM.

thanks thinker.


Nate, if your BIOS is completely unresponsive you could also try hot flashing but in my opinion that is dangerous. Frankly I'm a little scared to try that









Good luck bud!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

nate, I wish you were a real-life neighbor. I could easily lend you some spares to help in the hunt for the rogue part.

If I recall correctly, the only thing we've not tested in your situation is the PSU. DFIs of that vintage were notorious with being picky with RAM, but they were also known for being similarly fussy with PSUs.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
but they were also known for being similarly fussy with PSUs.

I can say I witnessed that issue with my Seasonic 500HT S12. All though me and Joe are still not sure if it was the motherboard being picky or if the power supply was failing/failed. The PSU however did work on other motherboards. Strange issue for sure...


----------



## nategr8ns

would an antec earthwatts 430 work? My dad recently got one for his computer... The only problem is that it's going to be tricky removing it from his case, and he uses his computer often.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
would an antec earthwatts 430 work? My dad recently got one for his computer... The only problem is that it's going to be tricky removing it from his case, and he uses his computer often.

Nate, the Antec Earthwatts 430 (manufactured by Seasonic) will work. It has a 20+4pin so your good to go in that area. Just politely ask your Dad if you can borrow it real quick for "testing purposes". By the way, is everything in your home on a surge/ups device?

Good luck


----------



## StormX2

nice machine, hope you get everything figured out


----------



## nategr8ns

we don't even own a UPS...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
we don't even own a UPS...

Nate, are your machines on a surge at least?

Please tell me yes


----------



## StormX2

i still need to find a good UPS -.-

I am so lazy when it omes to getting things I need, vs things I want.
Especially silly since I work fro TigerDirect and can get everything at Vendor Cost...


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *StormX2* 
i still need to find a good UPS -.-

I am so lazy when it omes to getting things I need, vs things I want.
Especially silly since I work fro TigerDirect and can get everything at Vendor Cost...

well hey new buddy


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
well hey new buddy


























Hey, G.O., the mask has come off of your avatar!









Haven't seen enough of you lately.


----------



## Blitz6804

So StormX2... you gonna hook us all up? I am thinking we all could use some parts (DDR 500 for some, PSUs for others).

Regards UPSes, I have had a lot of lucky with American Power Conversion. I am on my second model, not because the first failed, but because I outgrew it. This thing has saved my PC from countless blackouts, brownouts, and overvolts. Anyone who has lived on Long Island will tell you that in the summer time, you are lucky if LIPA provides you with 97 V out of your 120 V outlet.

As for up here in Amherst, the overvolt protection has come on a few times. Being a Long Islander, I never thought I would ever see 128 V.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*











Hey, G.O., the mask has come off of your avatar!









Haven't seen enough of you lately.


yeah I know







been trying to pop on when I can. I've been working double shifts and drawing a lot, but I'm making head way slowly but surly.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *StormX2*


i still need to find a good UPS -.-

I am so lazy when it omes to getting things I need, vs things I want.
Especially silly since I work fro TigerDirect and can get everything at Vendor Cost...


I'm in the market for a UPS








You know what I mean nudge nudge wink wink.


----------



## Blitz6804

I would not object to a Silverstone Olympia OP 800 myself. 800 W with a 66 A +12V rail. Unfortunately, I do not have the $200 I would need to get it. I seriously doubt that there would be a problem providing enough power to my Crossfires that way.

In other news, I am looking for some help regards my USB ports. I thought the USB hub in my monitor was going, so I bought an external. Again, the hub will periodically turn itself off and need to reboot. It is getting infuriating! So I went to device manager and looked into all of my USB ports. The all provide up to 500 mA of power. I looked into my devices.

Plugged into the motherboard:
7-port Belkin USB hub, 0 mA
APC Battery Backup, 24 mA
Patriot Razzo Thumbdrive, 200 mA

Into the 7-port Belkin USB hub:
UPEK Biometric reader, 100 mA
Microsoft Office Keyboard, 100 mA
Logitech G5, 98 mA

I also have a Microsoft VX-1000 webcam. That draws 500 mA, which is the limit of any USB port. I figured this is what causes the hub(s) to spontaneously shut off (over draw of current) but they seem to do it even without it plugged in. The ports on the motherboard are not going I hope? Anyone have an alternative suggestion as to what is happening?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hey nate, my sig rig is hooked up to this UPS. Absolutely bulletproof, no problems with it whatsoever. I got it when it went on sale at BestBuy several months ago. I think I got it for around $120.00 out the door (give or take a few for tax), if memory is serving me correctly.

My old office machine was hooked up to this CyberPower UPS. It too has been ultra-reliable and effective. My server will be going online soon hooked up to this UPS.


----------



## Blitz6804

And mine is on an APC Back-ups XS 1500. I am a bit disappointed by poor runtime (about 18 minutes present load; about 7 minutes full-tilt) but they do sell an add-on battery that is supposed to triple runtime. All it takes is money no?


----------



## nategr8ns

joe, yours is about $140 online and blitz yours is about $120 (out of stock though).
Thats a lot of money for something like this (I know all UPSes are expensive but still)


----------



## Blitz6804

Because the BX1500 was replaced by the BR1500. Same stats. The Egg sells it for $235.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

I am thinking of going X2 but the only need for it is some game like Crysis. Can you guys with Dual cores tell me what you get @ 1280*1024 All high.


----------



## Blitz6804

It would be much more GPU dependent than CPU dependent I think. Not to mention that no two PCs are created equal (background processes and drivers often differ) so I think it would be a shallow benchmark.

If it would make you happy though, I can try running the game single-cored to get an FPS idea and then dual-cored.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

That's an interesting test idea, Sub-Zero. I, for one, would be most interested in your findings.


----------



## Blitz6804

Alright; I will be back in about 30 minutes with results. I am going to do this the thorough way: disabling a core via MSConfig.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


joe, yours is about $140 online and blitz yours is about $120 (out of stock though).
Thats a lot of money for something like this (I know all UPSes are expensive but still)


Nate, there's no need to spend crazy money. If you just have your sig rig on the UPS then you can settle for a $60 APC 550VA. All you mainly want it for is the line conditioning and to protect yourself from surges.

Good luck









Blitz, I am looking forward to these results as well. Make sure the task manager only shows 1 core.

Good luck bud !


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Hey nate, my sig rig is hooked up to this UPS. Absolutely bulletproof, no problems with it whatsoever. I got it when it went on sale at BestBuy several months ago. I think I got it for around $120.00 out the door (give or take a few for tax), if memory is serving me correctly.

My old office machine was hooked up to this CyberPower UPS. It too has been ultra-reliable and effective. My server will be going online soon hooked up to this UPS.










UPSs are definately worth it


----------



## nategr8ns

ah good point thinker.

Well I tried the two-button trick, but it didn't work...
next attempt is an old 256mb stick of RAM.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

In my opinion, a UPS is like insurance: The one time you need is the one time you're thankful you have it. Especially in areas where power delivery is "dirty" (unstable outputs from the mains), or in areas subject to lots of lightning strikes and natural electrical phenomena, a UPS is a must-have. Also, if your area is prone to power outages, having a UPS is a good way to ensure your PC can at least shut down properly to protect its data and other memory-sensitive operations.

I live in an apartment complex where power delivery isn't always consistent, so I think it's a good idea to have a UPS for my most "mission-critical" equipment. I went overkill on the UPS for the gaming rig because it's pieces of equipment that will outlive this PC; my future machine will likely require more battery power (higher VA requirements), so it's hopefully a bit of future-proofing in that regard.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Alright; I will be back in about 30 minutes with results. I am going to do this the thorough way: disabling a core via MSConfig.

Thnx for your time.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
In my opinion, a UPS is like insurance: The one time you need is the one time you're thankful you have it. Especially in areas where power delivery is "dirty" (unstable outputs from the mains), or in areas subject to lots of lightning strikes and natural electrical phenomena, a UPS is a must-have. Also, if your area is prone to power outages, having a UPS is a good way to ensure your PC can at least shut down properly to protect its data and other memory-sensitive operations.

I live in an apartment complex where power delivery isn't always consistent, so I think it's a good idea to have a UPS for my most "mission-critical" equipment. I went overkill on the UPS for the gaming rig because it's pieces of equipment that will outlive this PC; my future machine will likely require more battery power (higher VA requirements), so it's hopefully a bit of future-proofing in that regard.










Cant count how many times mine has saved my components {im thinking}, living in florida in the summertime with all the storms we get here and power bumps


----------



## Blitz6804

As per ZealotKi11er's suggestion, I set Crysis to 1280x1024, 0x AA, All-High. Further, I did what EA tells me to do. Before playing, open up task manager, and kill every process by the active user except for "Explorer.exe."

I then modified boot.ini as to only use one core. I did "Contact," and from dropping the sky to shooting the turtle, I get about 30-35 FPS standing still, 25-30 walking, and 15-20 FPS shooting.

I then exited the game and ran CPU and GPU benchmarks, here are the results:










I then modified boot.ini back to use dual cores. I booted the game again to "Contact," and did the same part. I get about 30-35 FPS standing still, about 25-30 walking, and about 25-30 FPS shooting.

I then exited the game and ran CPU and GPU benchmarks, here are the results:










Summarized: CPU benchmark is improved 22.9% by the reintroduction of a second core. GPU benchmark is improved by 6.6% by the reintroduction of a second core. In-game, the reintroduction of the second core prevents slow-down from firing, but little else difference.

For fun, I decided also to run the game the way my settings usually are with this limited-run configuration. That is, 1920x1200, 0x AA, All-medium. I get about 40-45 FPS standing still, about 35-40 walking, and about 35-40 FPS shooting.


----------



## nategr8ns

thanks for the interesting info blitz








I was going to ask where you got your wallpaper, but I just made something that looks a lot like it







.

Does anybody happen to know what those spots/circles that you get when looking through a camera near the sun? You can see them just under the task manager window in blitz's screen shot.


----------



## Blitz6804

No problem, my wallpaper is downloadable from InterfaceLIFT. I get all my wallpapers from them. Select your resolution, and pick from literally thousands of images.


----------



## Xyro TR1

^Wow, thank you for that!!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Alright guys I'm still working out some issues in my overclock (hence why its not posted in my sig....yet). Here's what i've got so far. Please help me out (talking with Blitz in IM now about it):

2.92GHz, 1.375v (1.35 BIOS) with 325 x 9
DDR533 @ 3-3-3-8-1T (tRC=9) timings...2.90v

Why the heck am I unstable???? It passes memtest like no tomorrow! I know my voltage SHOULD be alright?? It took 1.39v (1.375 BIOS) to reach 3.0GHz with my RAM at 214. So do I maybe require more voltage to the CPU??? I've NEVER dealt in the 2.9GHz range, so I'm off my normal clocking skills on this one. Let alone the fact that I can finally DO SOMETHING with my RAM.

Any ideas?


----------



## vwgti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Alright guys I'm still working out some issues in my overclock (hence why its not posted in my sig....yet). Here's what i've got so far. Please help me out (talking with Blitz in IM now about it):

2.92GHz, 1.375v (1.35 BIOS) with 325 x 9
DDR533 @ 3-3-3-8-1T (tRC=9) timings...2.90v

Why the heck am I unstable???? It passes memtest like no tomorrow! I know my voltage SHOULD be alright?? It took 1.39v (1.375 BIOS) to reach 3.0GHz with my RAM at 214. So do I maybe require more voltage to the CPU??? I've NEVER dealt in the 2.9GHz range, so I'm off my normal clocking skills on this one. Let alone the fact that I can finally DO SOMETHING with my RAM.

Any ideas?


Try setting your ram to 2t for a start, and see if that stabilizes. If that fails Id start pumping some more volts to the cpu, it sounds to me that your imc is what isnt stable. So either looser timings or more volts, as the imc feeds off the vcore. Just my 2 cents.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, I have been telling him for a while to drop the CR; he does not want to though do to the loss of bandwidth.

For my earlier USB post, I am attempting two fixes:
1) I installed a newer ULi driver
2) I changed USB support from BIOS to OS

On my Gigabyte, if I did not have USB set to be supported by the BIOS, I could not use the keyboard during Vista bootstrapper or GRUB. On this board, it works either way, so why have the BIOS do USB support?

I would like to mention that Belkin lies. I bought their 7-port USB hub. It purports to be USB 2.0. Every single devices plugged into it is running at 1.1 speeds. All of these devices operate at 2.0 if they are plugged into the PC directly or into my other hub.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Alright I'm DEFINITELY good with 255MHz (DDR510) at 2.5-3-3-6-1T (tRC=9, tRFC=12). Furthermore, I cannot for some odd reason get stable at 1T CR with 266MHz (DDR533). It passes memtest all day long. But it won't run OCCT. That definitely seems to be the issue now that I've had the time to sit down and tinker some.

So I'm NOW testing 262MHz (DDR524) with 2.5-3-3-6-1T (tRC=9, tRFC=12), and 2.88GHz on the CPU. I'm still working the kinks out of my new overclock since I've got new RAM. But hopefully by the end of the weekend I'll have myself a new 100% stable overclock....with HIGH RAM speeds







.


----------



## nategr8ns

I'm sooo jealous...

blitz I think you should either complain or return it...


----------



## Blitz6804

Well; I found some interesting stuff online. Seems that if you use even 1.1 device in the hub, all the ports drop to 1.1 speeds. Further, only four of the seven ports are 2.0; would be nice if they put that on the box, or even, tell you in the manual which one is which.


----------



## nategr8ns

that stinks blitzen, but I guess it makes sense... since all the ports come together and go through one USB port... It's like having two roads merge when the speed limit on one is 65mph and the other is 30.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

It seems that our Club has been cursed with hardware issues lately.

My own small drama entails testing a client's sound card, the much-vaunted Auzentech X-Fi Prelude. My client ordered one for a build I'm doing for him, but since I've long nursed a hardware crush on the Prelude despite my avowed distaste for the X-Fi APU, I asked my client if I could test the card in my system. Thankfully, he had no problems with that idea.

My first impressions of this highly-rated sound card are, well, not too favorable. For one thing, the drivers on the product disk are BROKEN. That's right: They are defective. Installing these did not make the card functional inside the OS. Strike one.

Strike two: Auzentech does have updated drivers available on their website, but you have to register the card AND provide personal information in order to access the necessary files. Auzentech justifies this as a safeguard against theft of intellectual property, but this is patently ridiculous; I know of no other product that requires user registration just to avail yourself of updated (or how about just plain FUNCTIONAL?!?) drivers. Furthermore, none of Auzentech's other cards (all based on C-Media APUs, just to make a point here) require such a ridiculous procedure for mere driver updates.

I eventually got the card working with functional drivers, but the eargasm I expected was, well, just not there. The sound quality is definitely not up to the standard set by my Auzentech X-Meridian, and it seems to be weak in output as well. All things unchanged bar the sound card, I could barely hear the output from the X-Fi Prelude. I had to increase volume levels from their settings with the X-Meridian installed, but the bigger insult was that, with all effects off (which is how I prefer to use the X-Meridian), the sound just seemed so flat and lifeless. Perhaps everyone who owns and swears by the X-Fi Prelude (or all other X-Fis, for that matter) runs with all manner of effects enabled, but I personally feel that this is a bit of a cheat because you are altering the source material. Musicians and movie sound directors mixed their soundtracks to sound best on neutral settings on all equipment (therefore eliminating a variable factor and providing some basis for "objective" comparison). Strike three.

I will be doing more testing during this weekend as time allows, but at this point I'm baffled about how this sound card got such a lofty reputation.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Couldn't tell ya joe. However my Live! 5.1 has somehow mysteriously died since I starting with my new RAM. Either the PCI slot died, or the card did...or there was an IRQ conflict







. I will be working on that AFTER I consider my overclock stable though







.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Auzentech does have updated drivers available on their website, but you have to register the card AND provide personal information in order to access the necessary files. Auzentech justifies this as a safeguard against theft of intellectual property, but this is patently ridiculous; I know of no other product that requires user registration just to avail yourself of updated (or how about just plain FUNCTIONAL?!?) drivers. Furthermore, none of Auzentech's other cards (all based on C-Media APUs, just to make a point here) require such a ridiculous procedure for mere driver updates.

There is a very simple reason for this. Creativelabs has decided to gimp current X-Fi cards in Windows Vista such that users will buy the new ones designed for it. A creative coder named Daniel Kawakami decided to fix this "oversight" by creating a way to get the X-Fis fully compatible. The fix requires running Danny's DLL unlocker, and then installing the Vista driver suite for the Auzentech X-Fi. Viola, you have a fully functioning X-Fi again, with sound quality and features equal to, if not superior to, the default XP drivers.

Auzentech's servers started getting deluged with Creative users downloading Auzentech software for non-Auzentech cards. This creates a problem with the people at THX, Dolby, et cetera, who require manufactures to pay licensing fees based on how many end users use their software and hardware decoders. Thus, Auzentech decided to require registration of your card to prevent those of us with Creative to download the drivers.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
There is a very simple reason for this. Creativelabs has decided to gimp current X-Fi cards in Windows Vista such that users will buy the new ones designed for it. A creative coder named Daniel Kawakami decided to fix this "oversight" by creating a way to get the X-Fis fully compatible. The fix requires running Danny's DLL unlocker, and then installing the Vista driver suite for the Auzentech X-Fi. Viola, you have a fully functioning X-Fi again, with sound quality and features equal to, if not superior to, the default XP drivers.

Auzentech's servers started getting deluged with Creative users downloading Auzentech software for non-Auzentech cards. This creates a problem with the people at THX, Dolby, et cetera, who require manufactures to pay licensing fees based on how many end users use their software and hardware decoders. Thus, Auzentech decided to require registration of your card to prevent those of us with Creative to download the drivers.

Actually, I'm fully aware of the whole Daniel K vs. Creative saga. I only really mentioned the need to download drivers from Auzentech's site because the ones provided in the CD simply *did not work*. If the provided drivers worked (I have never seen provided drivers that didn't work prior to this incident), there would have been no need to go to the manufacturer's website to download functional ones. That's a big problem that simply cannot be ignored.


----------



## Blitz6804

Very true, but it is not a unique occurrence. The driver disk that came with my Sapphiretech 3850 did not work in XP, but would work in Vista. Creative's X-Fi CD is the other way around. My Abit AT8-32x CD is unreadable in any OS. I have also had Logitech and Microsoft CDs not work; such is life.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

That's odd. That same AT8-32X driver disc worked flawlessly when I had it...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
That's odd. That same AT8-32X driver disc worked flawlessly when I had it...









Maybe it got scratched in transit perhaps?


----------



## Blitz6804

I think it is a remnant driver issue. I am intending to reformat all HDDs soon. Hitachi to get Vista x64 Ultimate solely. WD 80 GB to get Experience x32 Home solely. WD 120 GB to get Ubuntu Linux x64 and Ubuntu Linux x32.


----------



## nategr8ns

wait, whats the difference between a creative X-Fi and an auzentech X-Fi?
Is Auzentech is a separate company


----------



## Blitz6804

Auzentech got a licence to use the Creativelabs X-Fi processor in a sound board. Auzentech makes their own audio cards usually, but in the case of the X-Fi, it is a Creative APU on an Auzentech PCB.


----------



## Anqt31

Anyone know where I could get a opty 175?


----------



## nategr8ns

ebay is probably your best bet.
I'm not really looking to get rid of mine









edit: somebody please buy this 








tyan server motherboard, dual 1.8ghz opterons! $100.
edit: nvm no PCI-e


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Anqt31* 
Anyone know where I could get a opty 175?

I had one (new, sealed-in-box), but traded it with a Club member not too long ago.


----------



## nategr8ns

OK I need some guidance from you guys:
Yesterday I was trying to get my DFI to work. I didn't want to remove my opteron 175, so I took my old 3800+ out of the closet. It would fall easily into the socket, so I picked it up and one of the pins was bent -.-. I used a needle to straighten out the pin, and I guess I slipped or something because magically the pin bent itself again after I straightened it. Sticking the needle underneath the fallen pin, I accidently broke it off.
this is the pin. In line with the bottom of this bare patch. Right on the edge of the processor.


Is it safe to run that processor or could it damage the motherboard or other components?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Is it safe to run that processor or could it damage the motherboard or other components?


Nate, I'd advice not trying that. I'm guessing the machine would just sit there and not POST. It may or may not damage your other components. It's definitely not worth trying. However I do believe there are services that repair damaged pins.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Couldn't tell ya joe. However my Live! 5.1 has somehow mysteriously died since I starting with my new RAM. Either the PCI slot died, or the card did...or there was an IRQ conflict







. I will be working on that AFTER I consider my overclock stable though







.


Pio, this happened on my Creative Soundblaster Audigy 2 ZS. One day the card just gave out "crackling" noises. Eventually it died









Good luck guys!


----------



## boonie2

PIO , have to agree with Blitz and VWgti , you might have to lose 1T to get stable at 2.9 , at least with mine I had to ... its now running stable thru both Prime & OCCT at 325x9 1.295v Corsairs are at 2.5-6-3-3 2T .. tried running the tests with 3gb but its too much strain so im back to 2gb now


----------



## nategr8ns

the funny thing is that the motherboard (DFI) still detects the CPU!
not sure whats up though...


----------



## pioneerisloud

*OUR LATEST 939 ONLY CLUB CONTEST IS NOW UP AND LIVE!*

This gives you guys roughly 40 minutes to read over the rules BEFORE you even start you submission. I posted it early so you guys could enjoy the rules....if anyone is on that is







. Also I will be away at work (and I'm not even at home till Sunday night)....so that's another reason why its posted early.

You can visit our latest contest via the link provided by this sentence .


----------



## amdcrazy01

hey im looking to put a amd in the 939 can you help me find a fx or x2 pleas


----------



## Blitz6804

Do an eBay search for "Opteron 165," "Opteron 170," "Opteron 175," or "Opteron 180."

Opteron 185s are insanely priced for what you get.

(If you want the Athlon64 counterparts, they are Athlon64 X2 4400+ for the Opteron 175, Athlon64 X2 4800+ for the Opteron 180, and Athlon64 FX-60 for the Opteron 185.

The Athlon64 X2 3800+, 4200+, and 4600+ correspond to the Opteron 170/175/180 with half the L2 the cache. Depending on the age of the CPU, they either only have half the cache, or they have half of their cache disabled.)

All the Opterons are 110W and have a maximum temperature of 65Âº C. The Athlon64s are generally 110 W and have a maximum temperature of 65Âº C. If you get an 89W 4400+ or 4800+, it will be 71Âº C. Ask Pioneerisloud about maximum temperatures, and he will scoff at you.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Wow guys...a whole day and NO POSTS??? What happened? I hear crickets!!

Don't forget our contest is now fully on and going







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Been a little busy this weekend with a client build and getting my contest rig up and running.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Been a little busy this weekend with a client build and getting my contest rig up and running.










Joe, I'm right there with you...


----------



## iandroo888

not participating in this one. vegas temps too hot. i have probably highest ambients to disadvantage to me already.


----------



## Blitz6804

Nope, Joe has you beat. Yes, SoCal is cooler than Las Vegas, but on the flipside, he lacks the central air conditioning you enjoy.


----------



## iandroo888

central air conditioning still not good enough... need individual units for my room


----------



## txtmstrjoe

'Tis not in the winning of a contest shall you find the measure of a man, but in how he plays the game.









I'm in this contest for the fun and competition of it. I've already got a few interesting solutions ready for testing.







Not really sure if my first little trick will work, but it'll be fun finding out.

By the way, members, please check out the first post in the thread, where we now have a spiffy-looking Club Banner flying our colors! Please give Blitz6804 your tributes for such a beautiful piece of work.


----------



## iandroo888

question though. does the rig need to be in a case or can it be a test bench









*edit*

also. my rig is making a funny noise. iunoe. cant really explain. wonder if its my power supply. another noise comes out when im playing a game like Talesweaver. wonder if its my video card.. lol >_o


----------



## Blitz6804

A case is not required for a valid entry.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
also. my rig is making a funny noise. iunoe. cant really explain. wonder if its my power supply. another noise comes out when im playing a game like Talesweaver. wonder if its my video card.. lol >_o

How would you describe this noise you're hearing? Actually, correct me if I'm wrong, but you're actually hearing two kinds of noises? One specifically when playing a game, and another not specifically while gaming?


----------



## StormX2

hey guys, shoudl I try to find a cheap 8800 gts 640 mb and SLI on my sig rig?

or try to sell my 8800 GTS 640 and put it towards something else?

I game at 1680x1050 keep in mind 4x aa =)


----------



## Blitz6804

If you only have the money for one card, go with another 8800 GTS 320 mb or 640 mb. If you have the money for more than one card, I would suggest you look into a pair of 8800 GTs. They have the best price/performance ratio of the 8 line.

Given that the 9s are out, you might find a used 8 on the cheap.

REMEMBER: The 8800 GTS 512 and 8800 GT 512 are incompatible with your present video board.


----------



## nategr8ns

honestly, you should be fine in most games with that card. Are there any specific games that are getting bogged down? Try playing them with just 2x AA







.

edit: what happened to all of our tags? And all those linkbacks we had


----------



## Xyro TR1

^You can always turn down the AA, like he said, or even turn it off. At that res, the "jaggies" are hardly noticeable.


----------



## Blitz6804

Superfluous tags were removed by moderation. Thankfully, all the funny link-backs were cleared at the same time.

If you do not intend to SLI, look into an HD 3850 or HD 3870. Newegg has 3850s as-cheap-as $70 after mail-in rebate.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
central air conditioning still not good enough... need individual units for my room









Iandroo, how hot of ambients are we talking about in your room? Just give the contest a shot and see how it turns out. Remember it's just an hour of OCCT...nothing crazy









Good job on the banner Blitz


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
REMEMBER: The 8800 GTS 512 and 8800 GT 512 are *incompatible* with your present video board.

Not quite accurate, as I used to run a G92 8800GT in mine, and pio runs a G92 8800GTS in his. In fact, my current video card is also PCI-E 2.0, and it runs fine with the rest of my setup.


----------



## Blitz6804

According to nVidia's website, the 320 MB and 640 MB models cannot be used with anything other than themselves. Its very possible that the website information is dated, but I am just putting it out there.

(I do not see an 8800 in any of your rigs. I see a 7900, a 3870, and a 4870. You hiding something from us? *Chuckles.* Pioneer runs a 512 MB 8800 GTS; Froggy has the 320 MB 8800 GTS. Maybe for fun they can try SLI for us and see if it works?)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


According to nVidia's website, the 320 MB and 640 MB models cannot be used with anything other than themselves. Its very possible that the website information is dated, but I am just putting it out there.

(I do not see an 8800 in any of your rigs. I see a 7900, a 3870, and a 4870. You hiding something from us? *Chuckles.* Pioneer runs a 512 MB 8800 GTS; Froggy has the 320 MB 8800 GTS. Maybe for fun they can try SLI for us and see if it works?)


Hehe, perhaps you can check any of the photos in my album.







I still have the G92 8800GT (eVGA Superclocked Edition), actually. It was a gift from the girlfriend, and it now has a Thermaltake DuOrb strapped on to it for cooling.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Woo!

Starting to build up my second 939 rig! My main is still waiting for a functional mobo to get it working, so I'm going to be building up this one for the time being. Wish me luck!
(Note: the 3500+ will soon be swapped for an Opty 148 @ 2.8 Stable)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Xyro, looking good!







Good luck to you!

What's wrong with the AT8 32X in your sig?


----------



## Blitz6804

So its my fault you are too lazy to update your rig stats?

Congrats Xyro; is that X1900 only provisional?


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Xyro, looking good!







Good luck to you!

What's wrong with the AT8 32X in your sig?


AT8 is on order (ships today!). The A8R-MVP is sucking hard. LAN dies after a few minutes, then system hard locks. It's borked.








I know it's the board, because the A8N-E with the same internals (well, aside from the second 4850) had no issues whatsoever.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

No, none of the rig info needs updating at the moment.









I just have, um, an embarrassment of riches when it comes to certain types of spares...









@ Xyro: Ah, gotcha. I thought you already have the AT8 32X. My old one is now Sub-Zero's property. He's not getting the most out of it right now, though, I don't think, due to how he adapted his previous OS install.







It's a bit of a quirky motherboard, for sure. I think you'll have an interesting time playing with it.


----------



## Slappa

Today I removed the IHS of my S939 4200+ X2. First time doing that to any cpu. Went smoothly and successfully, except for the cut on my finger.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Congrats Xyro; is that X1900 only provisional?


X1900XT is there to stay.









The dual 4850's are in my sig rig, this is just a "spare"


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Slappa*


Today I removed the IHS of my S939 4200+ X2. First time doing that to any cpu. Went smoothly and successfully, except for the cut on my finger.










Ouch. Hope you let your wound bleed after that cut, Slappa!

Have you done any comparisons on your temperatures yet? Running topless really gives you a lot more temperature headroom.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


@ Xyro: Ah, gotcha. I thought you already have the AT8 32X. My old one is now Sub-Zero's property. He's not getting the most out of it right now, though, I don't think, due to how he adapted his previous OS install.







It's a bit of a quirky motherboard, for sure. I think you'll have an interesting time playing with it.


Quirky? Oh this could be fun...

That said, my old Skt939 ABIT was the most stable board I've ever used! Maybe even more so than the A8N-E. The only reason I no longer have it is due to the AGP port.


----------



## Blitz6804

Half my quirks are because I did not reinstall Windows I am sure; dormant drivers and the like. Once I am able to, I am wiping all HDDs and starting fresh:

Vista X64 on the Hitachi 750 GB
XP Home X32 on the SATA 80 GB
Ubuntu Linux X32/X64 on the PATA 120 GB

All I need is the Vista disc and I should be good to go. That, and some motivation.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I had a rather maddening time with my old one. I probably had a stubborn chip in it, though, because Blitz has already surpassed my own best clocks with the same motherboard. Either that, or his affinity with the Overclockers' side of the Force is much greater than mine...


----------



## Xyro TR1

^Hmm... well, hopefully I'll be able to hit some numbers... I've had TERRIBLE luck thus far, only hitting 2.7Ghz, but not stable. That was on the borked board, though, so we'll see.

I have plans...


----------



## Blitz6804

More likely the stubborn chip. The problem I have with it is that it periodically shuts off USB ports. Only for a few seconds, but it is still long enough to get yourself killed in Call of Duty.

The problem lies in the southbridge. ULi. A.K.A. nVidia. They strike me again. (-_-)


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


More likely the stubborn chip. The problem I have with it is that it periodically shuts off USB ports. Only for a few seconds, but it is still long enough to get yourself killed in Call of Duty.

The problem lies in the southbridge. ULi. A.K.A. nVidia. They strike me again. (-_-)


Damn... if that happens, there will be a new board in my sights. Probably an A8R32...









Oh well, I'm still excited.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


More likely the stubborn chip. The problem I have with it is that it periodically shuts off USB ports. Only for a few seconds, but it is still long enough to get yourself killed in Call of Duty.

The problem lies in the southbridge. ULi. A.K.A. nVidia. They strike me again. (-_-)


Do all of the USB ports run off of the southbridge chip?

Perhaps enabling a SB chipset overvolt might decrease the frequency of the problem.









@ Xyro: I think Blitz's issues have a lot to do with his "adapted" OS installation, and not the hardware itself. When I ran the board, it was trouble-free (apart from the stubborn OCing, that is).

The A8R32-MVP Deluxe is one of those motherboards that I've long nursed a hardware crush for.


----------



## Blitz6804

The other annoying thing: if you plug a device into the computer, it will work at USB 2.0 speeds. If you plug a hub into the computer, it will work at USB 2.0 speeds. If you plug something into the hub, it is down to USB 1.1 speeds.

I have not tested for either problem in Vista. That is a much newer install, not to mention newer PnP drivers, so it might work better.


----------



## Xyro TR1

I don't use USB hubs, so I think I'll be alright.









I DO however, use USB extensions, as my rig is not near my desk (it's in the closet)


----------



## Slappa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Ouch. Hope you let your wound bleed after that cut, Slappa!

Have you done any comparisons on your temperatures yet? Running topless really gives you a lot more temperature headroom.










Yeah it bled after. Then I later stopped it.

Its now 48 vs 55-58ish(old temp) degrees other core is down at 40 degrees (HUGE CHANGE). Huge delta is because I screwed up the way the HS is mounted but I'm too lazy to try and fix it. It's for my folding rig.


----------



## Blitz6804

I do not see a bit issue with an 8Âº C delta. Mine is about that at times.

It was smaller with my Zalman; I take that to mean that despite my best efforts, the SI-128 pulls away from the motherboard. I do not know how to fix it, as I've mounted it as best as I can.

Perhaps my TIM is no longer good? How can you tell if ArticSilver5 went bad?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*


Starting to build up my second 939 rig! My main is still waiting for a functional mobo to get it working, so I'm going to be building up this one for the time being. Wish me luck!
(Note: the 3500+ will soon be swapped for an Opty 148 @ 2.8 Stable)


Xyro, good luck. Let us know the stress testing status of the new Opty 148 once it is installed









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Slappa*


Today I removed the IHS of my S939 4200+ X2. First time doing that to any cpu. Went smoothly and successfully, except for the cut on my finger.










Slappa, congrats on that. You have more guts then I'll definitely ever have. I'm mainly scared of knocking one of the IC's off during the decap.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Perhaps my TIM is no longer good? How can you tell if ArticSilver5 went bad?


Blitz, how long ago did you apply the AS5?


----------



## Blitz6804

When I got the Abit.

I mean how long does a tube last? I have two tubes; one older, one newer. The former is about 4 years, the latter is a few months. Would it be worth taking apart the PC to try the newer tube?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


When I got the Abit.

I mean how long does a tube last? I have two tubes; one older, one newer. The former is about 4 years, the latter is a few months. Would it be worth taking apart the PC to try the newer tube?


Blitz, how long ago was the AS5 applied? Sorry if my previous question was not descriptive


----------



## Blitz6804

I applied the AS5 when I got my Abit board. Approximately three weeks ago on July 18th. It has ran a total of 230 hours since then; 65 boot periods. Sorry if my previous answer was not descriptive.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I applied the AS5 when I got my Abit board. Approximately three weeks ago on July 18th. It has ran a total of 230 hours since then; 65 boot periods. Sorry if my previous answer was not descriptive.


Blitz, your TIM is ok if it was applied 3 weeks ago. I've ran machines longer than that within a 3 week period and they were perfectly fine


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Not quite accurate, as I used to run a G92 8800GT in mine, and pio runs a G92 8800GTS in his. In fact, my current video card is also PCI-E 2.0, and it runs fine with the rest of my setup.










I think he's talking about SLIing the two different cards, not the motherboard/PCI-e slots.
"Video board" is a bit of a confusing nickname though


----------



## Blitz6804

What I am trying to ask is how can I tell if the AS5 went bad in the tube. I know it takes about 200 hours for AS5 to cure and give you the best temperatures possible. However, given my relatively high delta and high-overall temperatures for the heatsink, I am starting to think that the AS5 was spoiled. How likely is this?

Nate: yes; that is exactly what I meant.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
What I am trying to ask is how can I tell if the AS5 went bad in the tube. I know it takes about 200 hours for AS5 to cure and give you the best temperatures possible. However, given my relatively high delta and high-overall temperatures for the heatsink, I am starting to think that the AS5 was spoiled. How likely is this?

Nate: yes; that is exactly what I meant.

Blitz, oh I'm sorry. I understand what your asking







. Well I can't give you an exact answer to that. Perhaps you may have to give Arctic Silver a call for an official answer. For me, I've had a tube of AS5 for over 4 years now and it appears to be fine. The TIM is actually being used in my main sig rig


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Xyro, good luck. Let us know the stress testing status of the new Opty 148 once it is installed









Actually, that particular Opty chip is a very proven processor. I'd ran at 2.8Ghz for virtually ever, until my buddy's 939 rig was retired for a Q6600. In fact, he was, only seconds ago, outside my house wanting his A8N-E back so HE could build the system up.









In all likelyhood, the system will be used for a LAN gameserver and a folding machine. Also, for a "my system just blew up" backup system.


----------



## Slappa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 

Slappa, congrats on that. You have more guts then I'll definitely ever have. I'm mainly scared of knocking one of the IC's off during the decap.


Hey don't get me wrong, I was scared to hell as well. I have not been having good luck lately, I've killed my 4850, and I thought I was going to kill my X2. But it was in my backup/folding rig, and I figured, What the hell. I was suprised I didn't chop any IC's.

I did bend a few pins though, but it wasn't too had to bend back.


----------



## Anqt31

hey guys, I'm setting up another system. Here's the specs.

Processor - Opteron 165 (cooled by a lapped tuniq tower, of course!)
Ram - 2 x 1GB OCZ DDR400
Motherboard - still looking!


----------



## nategr8ns

if you're looking to troubleshoot, I have a DFI Ultra D that needs some help







.
It turns on, but cannot detect my memory







.

I actually just won a TT 430w PSU, so hopefully that arrives in 3 days before I leave for west-central washington.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
if you're looking to troubleshoot, I have a DFI Ultra D that needs some help







.
It turns on, but cannot detect my memory







.

I actually just won a TT 430w PSU, so hopefully that arrives in 3 days before I leave for west-central washington.

Nate, congrats on the new PSU









I'm sure this was asked a million times but did you try different speed memory?

Good luck


----------



## Anqt31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


if you're looking to troubleshoot, I have a DFI Ultra D that needs some help







.
It turns on, but cannot detect my memory







.

I actually just won a TT 430w PSU, so hopefully that arrives in 3 days before I leave for west-central washington.


Was that directed @ me? and what part of washington you headed for?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Anqt, I, for one, would be most interested in hearing about your OCing adventures with your "new" Opteron 165.









By the way, nate, Anqt, and whomever else, I've got a DFI LANParty UT nF4 Ultra-D that's looking for a loving new steward. I've presently got a bit of a surplus on spares, and this is one I'd like to hand down to someone who would treat her right.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


Was that directed @ me? and what part of washington you headed for?


Yeah it was. I don't know if you're willing to try to get it running.

I have run it with both GSkill 500 and Corsair VS 400 memory. One stick at a time. I still have yet to try with the valuecrap from my old gateway (dad's actually) so I will try that when I get back from washington.
I'll be staying with family in both Seattle (an old neighborhood on a little hill looking over Seafair







) and Newcastle (the neighborhood entirely on another hill, there's a "Jew's for Jesus" church somewhere in it). I'm taking a cruise with my imediate family (parents+brother) up the Alaskan coast







. I can't wait, first cruise







.

Joe, thanks for the offer, but I don't really have cash to spend on more upgrades at the moment. I'm saving up for car insurance and whatever else I need to buy in the future (NDS







)


----------



## Blitz6804

"...and this is one I'd like to hand down to someone who would treat her right..." sounds like "handout" to me personally.


----------



## nategr8ns

oh...
well in that case, thanks joe, but after I get back at the end of summer, I'm going to keep troubleshooting my current DFI. If it still doesn't work, then I'll take you up on your offer


----------



## Blitz6804

An update on my case temperature issues.

My Vantec IceberQ 6's arrived today. I have installed the one for the video card I have. Load temperatures are now 54Âº C instead of 60Âº C.

Mediocre you say? Quite. However, this is not why I bought the coolers. My CASE temperatures are now down a fair bit. Case temperature is now 32Âº C when the GPU is at full load rather than 40Âº C. This means that when the GPU is at full load, the CPU can remain sub-40. In theory anyway. I will write up a hardware review for it later.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

That's a fairly good improvement, actually. Goes to show that managing and massaging case airflow really does wonders for chip temperatures.


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz, nice results.

With my GeCube 3850 I was getting nasty full load temps in the high 60's. So I took the cooler off, cleaned it well and applied some AS5. Full load temps definitely improved down to 50C load. Pretty amazing if you ask me. Either not enough TIM was applied when the cooler was mounted or the TIM they used was just plain horrible.

To say the least the stock cooler performed well in my opinion.

Good luck Blitz. Looking forward to that hardware review


----------



## Blitz6804

I also found out why the fans were so loud: I had them set to the SYS temp; 30Âº C would be 8.0 V, 40Âº C would be 12.0 V. Well; SYS temp never read 30. I slaved them all instead to CPU temp (currently reading 23Âº C) and they are all silent now.

For the record, Abit ÂµGuru's CPU temperature is about 7Âº C cooler than the CPU temperatures. This is a difference of die versus core no? Would a topless chip shrink this delta? I know a topless chip will shrink the Core0/Core1 delta. How do you shim the mounting bracket to make up for the lost height of the internal heat spreader? How likely is it to crush the chip with the heatsink?

Thlnk3r: Yeah, the difference of load temps may be as simple as the TIM. The TIM they have is "vaguely metallic." That is, it is a grayish silver, but when it is spread thin (read: gets stuck on your fingers) it does no shimmer like AS5 does. They also put, in my opinion, way too much. The TIM was about as thick as the GPU die, if not, thicker.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Blitz, I never used uGuru when I had the AT8 32X, but it seems to me that the difference in temperatures that you're seeing here is because uGuru is reading the temps at the heatspreader level as opposed to at the core level. Something that also adds to the confusion in monitoring this particular temperature reading is that, in the case of Everest Ultimate, SpeedFan (back when it was actually a more useful utility), and the proprietary temperature monitoring software that comes with the motherboard, only one CPU temperature is monitored, even if it is a multi-core processor. Clearly, then, the temperature at the IHS level is what's being reported by the sensor.

When you remove the IHS, the delta between this so-called "CPU Temperature" (at the IHS level) and the "Core" temperatures shrinks dramatically. In the chips that I've run topless, the CPU temperature is always still cooler than the core temperatures, but the difference is much smaller (one or two degrees C maximum). This leads me to believe that, wherever the so-called CPU Temperature sensor is, it's not exactly at the level of the cores itself, but just outside of it (perhaps the top of the single, monolithic die at the top of the CPU PCB).

My advice: The delta between the temps is not worth getting neurotic over. Between the "CPU" temp and the core temperatures, I'd care more for the core temps myself. Lastly, I try to be mindful that we really have no idea how precisely these sensors have been calibrated anyway...


----------



## Blitz6804

I am considering flashing my 3850's BIOS to increase its voltage from the stock 1.214 V to a 3870's stock of 1.325 V. Anyone use ATITool.exe? What did you think of it? Is there a better way to flash a GPU's BIOS?

EDIT: Question so asked.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I am considering flashing my 3850's BIOS to increase its voltage from the stock 1.214 V to a 3870's stock of 1.325 V. Anyone use ATITool.exe? What did you think of it? Is there a better way to flash a GPU's BIOS?


Blitz, I'd recommend posting that question in the ATI section. You'll definitely get some help from those experts. Just remember increasing the voltages means higher temps. Make sure you have an adequate cooler as well. You may also want to start lapping









Good luck


----------



## nategr8ns

blitz I'm not sure if ATItool actually flashes the BIOS. I'm pretty sure the clocks are only changed until reboot.
ATItool used to work for me, but all of a sudden it stopped reading the clocks and I had to change to EVGA precision (only works with nvidia AFAIK)


----------



## Blitz6804

I've not used ATITool. It did not work at all with my AGP HD 3850, so I never bothered trying it on my PCI-E HD 3850. In theory, sine it can temporarily adjust voltages, I can see if it is worth doing a voltage change no?

EDIT: I just tried ATITool V 0.27 B4. Unlike with the AGP HD 3850, artifact finder does not cause the program to crash within 10 seconds of starting it. Unfortunately, there is no voltage modification options, so I am afraid it will be relegated simply to stability testing and temperature status.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I've not used ATITool. It did not work at all with my AGP HD 3850, so I never bothered trying it on my PCI-E HD 3850. In theory, sine it can temporarily adjust voltages, I can see if it is worth doing a voltage change no?

EDIT: I just tried ATITool V 0.27 B4. Unlike with the AGP HD 3850, artifact finder does not cause the program to crash within 10 seconds of starting it. Unfortunately, there is no voltage modification options, so I am afraid it will be relegated simply to stability testing and temperature status.


Blitz, you could also try a volt mod if your that desperate for voltage. Have a look at the techpowerup.com forum. I know W1zard made a volt mod guide for the 4850. Have a look in the Articles section.

Good luck


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Anqt, I, for one, would be most interested in hearing about your OCing adventures with your "new" Opteron 165.









*By the way, nate, Anqt, and whomever else, I've got a DFI LANParty UT nF4 Ultra-D that's looking for a loving new steward. I've presently got a bit of a surplus on spares, and this is one I'd like to hand down to someone who would treat her right.







*

You've got my attention. I REALLY don't want to run a P4 with Hyperthreading as my other HTPC rig







. I probably couldn't afford it though...but I am still interested.


----------



## Anqt31

I have recently been doing some testing with my new Liquid Cooling system. I've found that it is very much superior to stock or even the tuniq. At 2.6Ghz, it idles @ 39C and loads @ 43C. With my tuniq, idle was 33C, and load was 48C. I'll post screenshots and pics with new liquid cooling as soon as I get my sister to loan me her camera!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Nice load temps there, Anqt! That makes for a real persuasive arguments to take your chips swimming!


----------



## Anqt31

thanks joe,

btw-> a member here on OCN has a great deal on DDR500. $65 shipped. he might even take less, you never know!

http://www.overclock.net/sale/366069...rts-price.html


----------



## vwgti

I see youre all debating on going wet. Well heres a occt run at 3.4 with crazy vcore for a 65nm chip. Look at them load temps!!


----------



## Xyro TR1

1.6V?!?! Dayum... nice temps!!!


----------



## Xyro TR1

Update on my rig:

New case is in. PSU installed and all cables routed. Temporary 120mm fans installed. Data cables routed. Now, I'm just waiting for the mobo to arrive so I can get it all up and running. I'll be RMAing my other 2GB of RAM tomorrow, as only the new stuff works right. And within the next couple weeks, I'll buy the Scythe fans and my lighting equipment. All that's left after that: pictures and overclocking! ^.^


----------



## nategr8ns

ooh, can't wait for pics









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


thanks joe,

btw-> a member here on OCN has a great deal on DDR500. $65 shipped. he might even take less, you never know!

http://www.overclock.net/sale/366069...rts-price.html


I got the same RAM for $60








I'm debating getting this, but I really don't think I need more ram. I'm patient enough to wait for my next rig overhaul







.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vwgti* 
I see youre all debating on going wet. Well heres a occt run at 3.4 with crazy vcore for a 65nm chip. Look at them load temps!!

Vwgti, very impressive


----------



## Blitz6804

Anyone hear from Poser lately? I'd like to have him help me get better performance out of my RAM. While "technically" they are running DDR 400, they are only clocking in a measly 5400 MBps, that is, they are running as if they are at DDR 334. I understand the memory is on a 200:166 divider, but why is it running at 334 if it says it is running at 400?

Yes, I know; use only 2 GBs to get the speed up, but I really want 4 GB.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I actually miss our friend Poser.

RAM speed is what it is. That is to say, if by the combination of HTT Clock and the RAM divider you're getting DDR400, that's the number that matters. The reasons for lowered throughput/bandwidth, though, have probably more to do with other settings, such as the various timings. Some of the timings settings have a big influence on bandwidth.


----------



## Blitz6804

I am sure the problem stems from me being 2T. According to my motherboard's manual, if you have single-sided memory, you can do DDR 400 and 1T with 4 GB. I do not think I believe that.

Anyone have 4 single-sided DIMMs for me to test the theory with?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I don't think there are single-sided RAM 1GB RAM DIMMs available. That's a ton of density...

If there are, I'm certainly ignorant of which kit actually fits this description.


----------



## Blitz6804

The board can also support up to 8 GBs, unlike my nForce3-based one that can only handle 4 GBs. Unfortunately, I can only find ECC 2 GB DIMMs. Since I lack an Opteron, I cannot run ECC.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

You know, I've always found that claim of the AT8 32X's ability to run 8GBs of RAM to be rather dubious. I've never ever seen 2GB non-ECC DDR modules, for one thing; for another, as far as I know, only S940 Opterons will be able to accept ECC DDR. (On this point, somebody please correct me if I'm wrong.) S939 Opterons are identical to Athlon64s with 1MB L2 cache in all things but in name, after all.

On the other hand, my A8N32-SLI Deluxe does have a setting for ECC RAM operation.







I have never tested ECC DDR on my board, though, to see if this actually enables the board to operate with ECC RAM.


----------



## Blitz6804

Here is the K8 as I understood it:

Registered, ECC RAM: Socket 940 Opteron
Unregistered, ECC RAM: Socket 939 Opteron
Unregistered, non-ECC RAM: Socket 939 Opteron or Athlon64

That is:

Socket 939 needs unregistered RAM
Socket 940 needs registered RAM

Opteron can use ECC
Athlon64 cannot use ECC


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
You know, I've always found that claim of the AT8 32X's ability to run 8GBs of RAM to be rather dubious. I've never ever seen 2GB non-ECC DDR modules, for one thing; for another, as far as I know, only S940 Opterons will be able to accept ECC DDR. (On this point, somebody please correct me if I'm wrong.) S939 Opterons are identical to Athlon64s with 1MB L2 cache in all things but in name, after all.

On the other hand, my A8N32-SLI Deluxe does have a setting for ECC RAM operation.







I have never tested ECC DDR on my board, though, to see if this actually enables the board to operate with ECC RAM.

Joe, surprisingly some of the DFI nForce 4 boards support unbuffered ECC memory. Interesting


----------



## Blitz6804

I do not know if anyone noticed the modded sig-rig, but another change is pending to Xaser TASER.

In January of this year, I made the plunge into the world of overclocking.
In May of this year, I joined the world of case-modding.
In July of this year, I said goodbye to the Accelerated Graphics Port.

And now, in August, I am joining the world of 64-bit computing. I briefly dabbled with 64-bit Linux distros in the past, but now, I am going to be going 64-bit Vista Ultimate as my main OS. Well, as soon as I finish converting my backlogged media, clean up my library, and then back up the hard drive. My goal is to be done before September; we will see.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


And now, in August, I am joining the world of 64-bit computing.


Congrats, man! Why did you want to go x64?

I'd be running x64 except the drivers for my board fail'd during install. Oh well.










PS: New board in, Windows installed, posting from rebuilt rig! Need my Scythes and to get my RMA'd RAM back.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I suspect Blitz wants to go to 64bit for the performance advantage given by the RAM performance. I only hope that the driver availability issues have at least been reduced by now, as that is the big penalty for such a move.


----------



## Blitz6804

Incoming mega-death-spiel:

More or less it was to get my RAM back. On my AGP board, I had 3552 MB available to me in XP, 3328 MB available to me in Vista. On my PCI-E board, I had 3080 MB available in either operating system.

I know for a fact this has to do with VGA aperture size. That is, the motherboard setting aside some system RAM for use on the video card. On my AGP board, it was adjustable. I had it set to be the-smallest-possible size, 32 MB. We can see this on my XP's RAM. I had 4096 MB installed. The video card was 512 MB. The aperture was 32 MB. Thus, 4096-512-32 = 3552 MB. On Vista, things worked a little differently. As near as I can tell, it took a 224 MB software-based aperture in addition to the 32 MB hardware-based aperture. This explains why my AGP card supposedly had 768 MB of memory according to Window's device manager.

As for the PCI-E board, VGA aperture size is not adjustable. The supposition is that it is 1:1 with the VGA's actual memory, because I have only 3072 MB available to me. That is, 4096-512-512 = 3072. (Interesting to note that my laptop running Vista Ultimate 32-bit has 3070 MB. Do not ask me where the other 2 MB went; darned if I know.) Theoretically then, when I get the second 3850 in here, I should be dropping down to 2048 MB of RAM. It is possible of course that I will be 2560 MB, but why would I run another two DIMMs just for 512 MB? Of course, further, I could always just pull them and get the added bandwidth, but I really need the memory; I hate when it dips into Virtual Memory or Ready Boost.

So, after this long discussion about WHY I am doing it, let me see what I would gain.

According to Everest Ultimate, my memory bandwidth is up to 5770 MBps. This is up from 5445 MBps. That is a 6.0% improvement. Further, SuperPi computes a million digits in 32s. My score in 32x XP/Vista is 33s. (To be fair, 32x Linux does compute Pi faster than 64x Vista, but that is to be expected. What happens when I get around to trying 64x Ubuntu? Time will tell.) Apparently, the small bandwidth improvement is not enough to effect my Windows Experience Index however: it is still my weakest link at 4.8. It is interesting to note that my Western Digital Caviar (ATA-100, 7200 RPM, 8 MB cache) currently hosting Vista 64x also scored a 4.8. My Hitachi Deskstar (SATA-II, 7200 RPM, 32 MB cache) which is hosting Vista 32x/XP 32x scored a 5.9. Is it the cache or the interface? I guess I would need to test also my SATA Caviar (SATA-150, 7200 RPM, 8 MB cache) to be sure. Granted, that is still running half the bandwidth of the Deskstar; so who knows what will happen.

And yes Joe, driver support was holding me back. Creative has really bad Vista drivers. However, that is true for Vista 32x as well. I did find a fix, so the X-Fi sounds almost as good in Vista as it does in XP. Works for me. ATI's Vista support is outstanding I must say. I only wish that they had the 32x/64x driver package in one executable, but that is a minor gripe. I suppose I am used to downloading two packages every month anyway; now instead of XP/Vista, I will be downloading Vista 32x/64x.

The problem is more in the peripherals. Logitech has a 64-bit SetPoint, so my mouse will be fine. I have not tried it, but I am so confident in Logitech, I did not bother. Supposedly also there is a 64-bit version of Logitech Profiler, so I should still be able to use my Playstation 2 steering wheel on it.

The problem lies in Microsoft. As we all know, they like to stop supporting hardware in short order so that you buy the new hardware.

My joystick of choice is my Microsoft Force Feedback Pro 2.0. This joystick was intended to run on Windows 98. I have long-since lost the ability to program it with profiles, as official support ended with the death of Windows ME, but it worked plug-and-pray, and I could program buttons in-game, so it is no problem. It still worked plug-and-pray in Vista 32x, and although, I admit, I did not try it in Vista 64x, I am sure it works.

My issues start with my keyboard. My keyboard is the "Microsoft Office Keyboard." It experienced an EXTREMELY short software support period. That is, it was supported in only one release of Intellitype: 5.0. That is it. It is easy to install Intellitype 5.0 on XP, as that is the OS it was designed for. You can shoe-horn it onto Vista 32x. It is not pretty, but it works. There is no support in any 64-bit Windows, not even XP-64 Pro. It is rumored that the keyboard is supported in Intellitype 5.5, so I will test that now. If it is, then I may be in luck: 5.5 DOES come in a 64-bit version. (Update: I just ran it; the board is not in the installer. Anyone know how to add it as such?)

My mainstay for FPS games, the Microsoft Strategic Commander, is up in the air. Designed for Windows ME, the driver and programming software work natively on Windows XP. The shoehorn process for Windows Vista is cumbersome, but not hard. There is no support for 64-bit. Period. End of story. There is only one version of the driver suite available and that was only 32-bit. I found a fan-created driver that I tested. It does in fact work; I have not tried gaming with it though, so we will see. I can tell you it is much harder to program than the official software.

So there you have it (read: summary at last). Audio is only slightly reduced in Vista. Video is perfect. Mouse is perfect. Joystick is assumed perfect. Keyboard is massively gimped. Strategic commander is slightly reduced.

</SPIEL>


----------



## Xyro TR1

so...

Are my graphics cards (ATi 4850's) too new for my AT8-32X? Still can't run crossfire...

Is anyone running a current-gen Crossfire setup on a 939-gen board?


----------



## boonie2

You bought the 4850s WITHOUT knowing if they could run crossfire on your board????????


----------



## StormX2

i need some advice here..

I am getting extra money at the end of the month (for building a few computers for some friends) and I promised to take the money and either make a usefull Upgrade to my current rig, or to build a new machine that is equally sexy with a performance increase worthy of building a new rig.

my obviou choices would be to grab another 8800 gts for SLI - or Sell my GTS and maybe grab pair of 8800 g92's.

considering my motherboard and PSU should be able to handle that without issue this would be the cheapest possible upgrade and Im sure considerably noticable speed difference for my Gaming .

id rather not give intel any of my money, but if iBuld a new mchine, how an i justify money on an AMD processor that will give very little performance increase over my Opty 165?

i dont want to get rid of my Opty builds, because it is the sexiest computer I have ever built - unfortunatley I still cannot achieve 310 fsb stable =(


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


You bought the 4850s WITHOUT knowing if they could run crossfire on your board????????
























My board (both of them!) is a Crossfire chipset! I figured.. Crossfire board should let me Crossfire, right? One would hope...

I'm just asking for people who've DONE it.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *StormX2*


i need some advice here..

I am getting extra money at the end of the month (for building a few computers for some friends) and I promised to take the money and either make a usefull Upgrade to my current rig, or to build a new machine that is equally sexy with a performance increase worthy of building a new rig.

my obviou choices would be to grab another 8800 gts for SLI - or Sell my GTS and maybe grab pair of 8800 g92's.

considering my motherboard and PSU should be able to handle that without issue this would be the cheapest possible upgrade and Im sure considerably noticable speed difference for my Gaming .

id rather not give intel any of my money, but if iBuld a new mchine, how an i justify money on an AMD processor that will give very little performance increase over my Opty 165?

i dont want to get rid of my Opty builds, because it is the sexiest computer I have ever built - unfortunatley I still cannot achieve 310 fsb stable =(


StormX2, I guess it depends on how much money you'll be getting for your G80 8800GTS if you sell it. Getting another G80 8800GTS is cheaper than two G92s, and the question then becomes one of value for money. Is the increased performance from G92 in SLI worth the cost of two new cards, or is the leap in performance of an additional G80 for really cheap enough for you? For sure, staying with the G80 will be the cheapest upgrade, and despite what others might tell you, unless you'll really be needing the extra graphical horsepower, G80s in SLI will still be viable for the foreseeable future, in my opinion.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*


My board (both of them!) is a Crossfire chipset! I figured.. Crossfire board should let me Crossfire, right? One would hope...

I'm just asking for people who've DONE it.


Xyro, if I'm not mistaken Blitz will be going Crossfire with his HD 3850 setup. I would consider this to be a "modern" Crossfire setup (i.e., not like my X1950XTs with their external dongle, but with the bridge chip). Perhaps the two of you can swap notes, especially since he has the same motherboard. As to just a general opinion on whether or not it's possible, I can't think of any reason why not.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *StormX2* 
I am getting extra money at the end of the month (for building a few computers for some friends) and I promised to take the money and either make a usefull Upgrade to my current rig, or to build a new machine that is equally sexy with a performance increase worthy of building a new rig.

Storm, in my opinion I'd stay with what you have. You have a very nice rig...I wouldn't change anything about it. Save your money and wait









Good luck


----------



## StormX2

aww , not even to say I should hunt for a second 8800 gts?

=)~ and yes I know my computer is to Sexy to get rid of


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *StormX2* 
aww , not even to say I should hunt for a second 8800 gts?

Storm, it also depends on what resolution you plan on running at in your games. Is the power requirements, price tag and case ambient temps really worth it? If you want the power of two GPU's then you should wait for the 4870 X2.

Good luck


----------



## StormX2

well i game at 1680x1050, so i know I will benefit from SLI or crossfire
Obviousely i want to make this computer last a long time, though for a NEW graphics card id rather not ever spend more than 300 bucks on it, especially since i am very certain that My processor will hold it back a bit.

otherwise, I guess I will just wait , since I dont really care about any of hte new games, and my performance is fine for CSS and Day of Defeat Source. and well im pretty sure I can handle Spore=)


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Storm, it also depends on what resolution you plan on running at in your games. Is the power requirements, price tag and case ambient temps really worth it? If you want the power of two GPU's then you should wait for the 4870 X2.

Good luck










Why wait? It's out at Fry's already...


----------



## Blitz6804

Anyone know how an 8800GTS stacks up to a 3870 X2? Newegg has a 3870 X2 for $200 after MIR.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *StormX2*


otherwise, I guess I will just wait , since I dont really care about any of hte new games, and my performance is fine for CSS and Day of Defeat Source. and well im pretty sure I can handle Spore=)


Storm, good choice. Heck you may want to start saving up for AM3


----------



## nategr8ns

hi guys, just checking in from west Seattle







.
My uncle gave me a black nintendo DS, and it had YuGiOh in it, so I've spent about 10-15 minutes on that.
How did I ever play that card game...
I don't really have much to say other than that







.
I'll be able to check here until thursday, when I leave here for alaska.


----------



## iandroo888

goin on a cruise?


----------



## nategr8ns

maybe








my first one actually


----------



## --ares--

So I figured you guys could help me on this one. Does anyone know where I could pick up a different proc for my 939 rig. I really don't want to spend the kind of money to make a whole new rig, but If I could get a new proc that would be perfect.

I was thinking about buying a athlon x2, but gosh, they are so expensive compared to their AM2 counterparts. Is there a reason for this.

So to sum it up short, where/what can I find a replacement for my 3000+ that is better (without breaking the bank).


----------



## txtmstrjoe

--ares--, PM me. I might be able to help you.


----------



## Blitz6804

--ares--, if you would like to join our prestigious ranks, all you must do is say so. You've already posted the requisite information and we'd love to have you join!

*Waits to amend the roster.*


----------



## GuardianOdin

Hey Guys, Just stopping by to see how the thread is doing. --ares-- txtmstrjoe has some great 939 upgrades, you should talk to him.


----------



## Anqt31

Okay, I have a problem, a capacitator on my A8N-SLI Deluxe fell off... I want votes, should I make an effort to fix it or should I throw the board away and get a new one?


----------



## Blitz6804

It depends. If you know what you are doing with electronics and a soldering iron, I would say a definitive maybe.

If you are iffy on either, you would want to replace it or try to RMA it.


----------



## Anqt31

I'm okay (kinda) with a soldering iron, I just don't know if it's worth my time... its a hard spot to solder, right between rear panel and cpu socket; As for RMA, the warranties up. I got the mobo sometime in 2006. Plus, I've already RMA'd it 4 times and ASUS was getting kind of frustrated I think.


----------



## --ares--

thanks for all your guys help,
and if I enter this club thing will I have my name on a roster and can I have a part in my sig that says I belong to this sweet group?


----------



## Blitz6804

Absolutely --ares--, we would love for you to join us.

Anqt31: I have RMAed a board to Asus about 9 times. Every time they grumbled, fixed it, and sent it back. The downtime is annoying, but they kept fixing it regardless how old it was. Last repair was... 2005?

Pioneer now has this Skt A board.


----------



## Anqt31

Okay, I'll try rma'ing it.


----------



## Anqt31

oh, btw --ares-- welcome to the Socket 939 Club


----------



## pioneerisloud

Wait, what about me?


----------



## Blitz6804

I said you have my Skt A board that was repeatedly RMAed.

For the record, I am leaving a few hours for Long Island. I will have internet connection while there, but the chance of me using more than an hour or so per day is relatively low.

When I get back, I am hoping to get Vista 64-bit installed.

I gotta say though, I am appalled at boot and shutdown times. My computer accidentally booted to the Vista drive, again, (-_-) and I noticed it takes forever to shut off the computer. I told it to restart. After staring at the "Shutting down..." message for about 5 minutes, I gave up and just killed the power. Is this normal for 64-bit? My 32-bit install is much faster. Is it because I am on an ATA-100? Is that really that much slower than a SATA-150?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I said you have my Skt A board that was repeatedly RMAed.

For the record, I am leaving a few hours for Long Island. I will have internet connection while there, but the chance of me using more than an hour or so per day is relatively low.

When I get back, I am hoping to get Vista 64-bit installed.

I gotta say though, I am appalled at boot and shutdown times. My computer accidentally booted to the Vista drive, again, (-_-) and I noticed it takes forever to shut off the computer. I told it to restart. After staring at the "Shutting down..." message for about 5 minutes, I gave up and just killed the power. Is this normal for 64-bit? My 32-bit install is much faster. Is it because I am on an ATA-100? Is that really that much slower than a SATA-150?

I would take a guess and say part of the reason MAY be updates. Another part MAY be that superfetch isn't 100% used to your habits yet. Give it a couple weeks of constantly using it.....for some odd reason, Vista slowly gets faster.


----------



## StormX2

i need some help, trying to post higher than 310 fsb

proving to not like me.

those with my mobo or the expert lend me hand on settings, will find out my settings when im home


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Anqt31* 
Okay, I have a problem, a capacitator on my A8N-SLI Deluxe fell off... I want votes, should I make an effort to fix it or should I throw the board away and get a new one?

Anq, was it a cap or mosfet? Capacitors are extremely simple to replace. A few tools are required but it's very easy once you get down to it. Make sure when you replace the old cap that you get the same uF, temperature and voltage. Footprint size is also something to look for. In regards to tools, obviously a soldering gun and solder is recommend but also look for a desoldering tool. I also use needle nose pliers to pull out what is left over from the older cap.

There's about a million guides out there on google. Just perform a simple search and I'm sure you'll run into a few.

If you decide to RMA the motherboard than I hope Asus will take it back. Since it was damaged by you (technically not but they probably look at it that way) then they might just return it. A cap usually just doesn't "fall" off









Good luck buddy!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *StormX2* 
i need some help, trying to post higher than 310 fsb

proving to not like me.

those with my mobo or the expert lend me hand on settings, will find out my settings when im home

Storm, were you able to isolate your motherboards maximum safe HTT (reference clock speed)?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

thlnk3r, I'm a total ignoramus when it comes to capacitor replacement and am keen to learn. Perhaps you and I can collaborate someday (you do the tech work, I do the writeup) and do some kind of tutorial on the subject.

What sayest thou, _le penseur_?


----------



## StormX2

No i have nto really messed with anything ont he board, most everything was set as they came, and I have not done any Bios updates to it.

So boredom is here and I want to push further.

and regardless of what people will say I want a new graphics card =)~
Question is should i just get nice new card, liek a 4850 / 4870
or should i sell off my 8800 gts and grab 2 dirt cheap 8800 GT's for SLI

since i can get these eVGA 8800 GT dual Slot for $146 tax free + $13.14 shipping and i get to use 2 x $20 Mail in rebates lol

(that is the company i work for AKA Tigerdirect/Global/CompUSA/Systemax) lol


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
thlnk3r, I'm a total ignoramus when it comes to capacitor replacement and am keen to learn. Perhaps you and I can collaborate someday (you do the tech work, I do the writeup) and do some kind of tutorial on the subject.

What sayest thou, _le penseur_?

Joe, sounds good. I need to grab one of those desoldering tools first. When I did my cap replacements I borrowed my buddies.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *StormX2* 
No i have nto really messed with anything ont he board, most everything was set as they came, and I have not done any Bios updates to it.

So boredom is here and I want to push further.

and regardless of what people will say I want a new graphics card =)~
Question is should i just get nice new card, liek a 4850 / 4870
or should i sell off my 8800 gts and grab 2 dirt cheap 8800 GT's for SLI

Storm, I would first find out the maximum HTT of your motherboard. This would determine whether or not your board is holding you back or if it is something else.

In regards to the video card question, I honestly would not do anything BUT if your anxious then go with a 4870









Good luck


----------



## StormX2

oo i can get

http://www.Visiontek Radeon HD 4870 & FREE GRID Game - Visiontek Radeon HD 4870 Video Card with FREE GRID PC Game
260 no tax, +8.99 shipping also with a $20 mir

Grip look fun too ^^
well thats about the same price, either SLI 8800 GT's or 1 - 4870

simply due to the fact that I would rpefer to have an ATI Product, I would end up with the 4870, but n a performance stand point, am I better off wih the Single 4870?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *StormX2* 
No i have nto really messed with anything ont he board, most everything was set as they came, and I have not done any Bios updates to it.

So boredom is here and I want to push further.

and regardless of what people will say I want a new graphics card =)~
Question is should i just get nice new card, liek a 4850 / 4870
or should i sell off my 8800 gts and grab 2 dirt cheap 8800 GT's for SLI

since i can get these eVGA 8800 GT dual Slot for $146 tax free + $13.14 shipping and i get to use 2 x $20 Mail in rebates lol

(that is the company i work for AKA Tigerdirect/Global/CompUSA/Systemax) lol

Storm, get the most bang out of your buck.







My personal philosophy is to get the best single card you can get. The power draw requirements of multi-GPU setups aren't justifiable given my display (and resolution), especially with a single video card that's almost at the top of the tree.

I'm very happy with my HD 4870; it's faster than my current system in total (i.e., it's being bottlenecked), but since I'm more interested in the quality of the gaming experience than I am with benchmarks, I'm super-happy.

Also, I second thlnk3r's advice. Divide and conquer: See what each subcomponent (motherboard, CPU, and RAM) can do in isolation, just to know where their respective limits are. I'll be doing the same to a DFI LANParty UT CFX3200-DR (the same motherboard I used in our Stock Cooler OCing Challenge) imminently.

Good luck!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *StormX2* 
oo i can get

http://www.Visiontek Radeon HD 4870 & FREE GRID Game - Visiontek Radeon HD 4870 Video Card with FREE GRID PC Game
260 no tax, +8.99 shipping also with a $20 mir

Grip look fun too ^^
well thats about the same price, either SLI 8800 GT's or 1 - 4870

simply due to the fact that I would rpefer to have an ATI Product, I would end up with the 4870, but n a performance stand point, am I better off wih the Single 4870?

Storm, you could very well go with two 8800GT's but you may have to replace your PSU in the process. Wattage wise your probably fine...it's the 12volt rail that might cut it close. I believe your OCZ PSU is producing around 35amps total.

Go with a single card. In my opinion it'll produce less heat and require less power









Good luck


----------



## StormX2

last i saw my rig was at 302 or 305 fsb
HTT multi is low at 3, = 915
memory i already know that it cannot handle much, have it set at 140 (cant remember)
I just knwo that my ram cannot go higher than 450mhz
timing's i think are listed in my profile.

I will have to compile Info when I Get home.

I guess I will be plenty happy with a 4870 for my games in 1680x1050 4 x aa, My GPU struggle a little bit mroe than I would like in TF2 and DoD Source. and I have extra cah to spend , but not enough for a WHOLE computer build lol


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *StormX2* 
last i saw my rig was at 302 or 305 fsb
HTT multi is low at 3, = 915
memory i already know that it cannot handle much, have it set at 140 (cant remember)
I just knwo that my ram cannot go higher than 450mhz
timing's i think are listed in my profile.

I will have to compile Info when I Get home.

I guess I will be plenty happy with a 4870 for my games in 1680x1050 4 x aa, My GPU struggle a little bit mroe than I would like in TF2 and DoD Source. and I have extra cah to spend , but not enough for a WHOLE computer build lol

Storm, set your memory divider to the lowest setting and try testing that way. Don't forget you may also have to supply voltage to the chipset. A reference clock of 300 is pretty high for stock chipset voltages.

Your 8800GTS probably struggled because of the high resolution and 4x AA. TF2 on my machine runs pretty good. I run 1440x900 at 2x AA with everything on High.

Good luck with your purchase


----------



## StormX2

now thats what I wanted to hear =)

Yah I can post passed 310mhz fsb
however I was Incapable of booting to windows.

Do you knwo if the Temps reported in HW Manager in the bios are correct, if so what temps should I try to Stay within.

Man i feel totally noobed right now, im not sure what option to use for locating stock Voltage for Proc and Chipset. Any info on what option to raise and to what woul dbe greatly appreciated, and then of course I will try to test stability (what prgrams suggested for this?)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *StormX2*


now thats what I wanted to hear =)

Yah I can post passed 310mhz fsb
however I was Incapable of booting to windows.

Do you knwo if the Temps reported in HW Manager in the bios are correct, if so what temps should I try to Stay within.

Man i feel totally noobed right now, im not sure what option to use for locating stock Voltage for Proc and Chipset. Any info on what option to raise and to what woul dbe greatly appreciated, and then of course I will try to test stability (what prgrams suggested for this?)


Storm, are you running the stock chipset cooler? I've had the chipset temperatures reach 70-75C on my DFI board. That may be your limiting factor. You might want to think about purchasing a new chipset cooler if you haven't already. It's been said that the nForce 4 chipset can take temps up to 90C.

The stock voltage for your Opteron 165 is 1.3 - 1.35. The stock chipset voltage should be set at 1.5volts.

Hope that helps


----------



## StormX2

strange last i looked at my Bios settings, i think it showed the CPU at 1.38 Not sure if it is running some auto setting -.- arg so much complication lol

and i do not believe the chipset Voltages were raised, and yes stock cooling including stock opty cooler.

Got a good temp monitor for my Board?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *StormX2* 
strange last i looked at my Bios settings, i think it showed the CPU at 1.38 Not sure if it is running some auto setting -.- arg so much complication lol

and i do not believe the chipset Voltages were raised, and yes stock cooling including stock opty cooler.

Got a good temp monitor for my Board?

Storm, make sure you manually make the changes in your BIOS. I always take "most" settings off of AUTO.

The stock chipset cooler is not that great in my opinion. It get's the job done but you may run into problems when you starting raising the chipset voltage.

I use Everest to monitor my temperature changes. The version I have shows the PWM and Chipset temps.

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Jeez, Storm, all this time you've been running on your stock heatsink for your Opteron? We could use you in the Club's Stock Cooler Overclocking Contest!







I sure could use the company in the contest.









It's been a while since I played with a board very close to what you're running (I used to run a LP UT nF4 Ultra-D for my OCing/testing rig). As I recall, you really can get a ton of overclocking headroom by tweaking your RAM settings. The same holds true (actually, more true than ever) with the CFX3200-DR I'm currently playing with (and learning).

For your CPU temperature monitoring needs, I can now again recommend CoreTemp. I've been testing this extensively lately, and it seems the latest version has *finally* eliminated its tendency of randomly crashing the system due to an illegal memory access. Moreover, it's reading the same DTS (digital thermal sensor) in the cores as Everest does; both programs read the same temperatures identically.

Hope this helps you!


----------



## StormX2

hey i want to try this Contest, so I will need you guys to help out in the next few days with alllllllll the settings )


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *StormX2* 
hey i want to try this Contest, so I will need you guys to help out in the next few days with alllllllll the settings )

We'll certainly offer all we can give, Storm.


----------



## StormX2

so i see your Schwartz is as Big as Mine.


----------



## nategr8ns

by the way, the quote is "I can see our swartz are evenly matched" or something like that, right?
maybe you're right after all


----------



## StormX2

way to not look up the info first =)~

i just pulled it out of my hat

but the exact line is

"You have the ring, and I see your Schwartz is as big as mine. Let's see how well you handle it. "


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I would take a guess and say part of the reason MAY be updates. Another part MAY be that superfetch isn't 100% used to your habits yet. Give it a couple weeks of constantly using it.....for some odd reason, Vista slowly gets faster.


I understand that; it is a clean install. However, it is far slower than the 32-bit was when it was a clean install. And seriously; 10 minutes to power down?

For the record, I am now on LI. I have intermittent internet; so expect me to be relatively sparse.


----------



## iandroo888

Just for kicks, i wanted to see how much my sig rig is worth. i posted a thread in appraisals and see how much it would be worth.

http://www.overclock.net/appraisals/...ml#post4378841

go check it out. maybe put in your input as well.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well unfortunately it looks as if my Manny is no more







. So just so everyone has the heads up, I will be looking for a dual core 939 CPU that is capable of 2.5GHz with LOW temps on a stock cooler







. Let me know if you've got anything that matches that criteria. I'll see what I can do for a possible trade, and / or if I've got the cash to buy one.

Wish I didn't have to let her go finally







(the Manny).


----------



## txtmstrjoe

What happened to it, pio?

By the way, did something finally arrive at your place today?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


What happened to it, pio?

By the way, did something finally arrive at your place today?


Not that I am aware of, no.

And what happened is that I had a random act of generosity over a year ago. I offered my Manny up a year ago to our fellow OCN'er (Grim) when alot of people were helping him get a new rig going. Well, I just got his single core Athlon64 3200+ (a year later almost), and now I really don't have a choice but to send him the Manny like I promised. I won't back out on my word.

This sucks







. I had good plans for this rig too.

I forgot to add, the Athlon64 3200+ appears to be damaged







. Still testing it out, but I'm having a hard enough time getting it stable at all bone stock and 1.40v.


----------



## StormX2

I am sorry for your loss =(

that kind of stinks about not havin it stable at stock, thats really odd..
I dont think ive ever had problems with stability at stock settings. hell my opty is at just about all stock setting at 305 fsb lol

ahh I dont think I will have time this week to work on getting this to 315 FSB =(
Yesterday I was swamped with things to do after work it was rediculous

and then when i finally got onto the computer, all i could do was make strange Spore Creation's with large ummm reverse tails


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I forgot to add, the Athlon64 3200+ appears to be damaged







. Still testing it out, but I'm having a hard enough time getting it stable at all bone stock and 1.40v.


Pioneer, sorry to hear the bad news.

If the 3200+ is damaged then how are you testing it? Was there pinns bent?

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Not that I am aware of, no.

And what happened is that I had a random act of generosity over a year ago. I offered my Manny up a year ago to our fellow OCN'er (Grim) when alot of people were helping him get a new rig going. Well, I just got his single core Athlon64 3200+ (a year later almost), and now I really don't have a choice but to send him the Manny like I promised. I won't back out on my word.

This sucks







. I had good plans for this rig too.

I forgot to add, the Athlon64 3200+ appears to be damaged







. Still testing it out, but I'm having a hard enough time getting it stable at all bone stock and 1.40v.

pio, thlnk3r and I will not be holding a one-on-one joust with our X2 3600+ Manchesters now, so that one is now available to you.







PM/email me, and we'll hammer something out.

Bummer that the A64 3200+ isn't playing nice with you, though.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
pio, thlnk3r and I will not be holding a one-on-one joust with our X2 3600+ Manchesters now, so that one is now available to you.







PM/email me, and we'll hammer something out.

Bummer that the A64 3200+ isn't playing nice with you, though.









Joe, that is a very nice of you.

Pio, if that is a Winchester 3200+ then I can believe the overclocking issues but not sure how it is damaged and still usable


----------



## StormX2

maybe its a Zombie Chip?
a Dead chip, cursed to do Pi Calculations for all eternity.

Wonder if Zombie chip can Fold =?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well the 3200+ POSTs and boots into Windows. However OCCT and Orthos tests fail within seconds. At stock speeds. Grim got this chip used from fellow OCN'ers, so there's really no telling how much abuse this chip has actually seen







. Hence why I'm sure this chip is no good







.

PM awaiting you joe.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Well the 3200+ POSTs and boots into Windows. However OCCT and Orthos tests fail within seconds. At stock speeds. Grim got this chip used from fellow OCN'ers, so there's really no telling how much abuse this chip has actually seen







. Hence why I'm sure this chip is no good







.

Pioneer, at stock speeds it fails? That is crazy. Do you have another S939 board that you can test the 3200+ in?

Good luck


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Pioneer, at stock speeds it fails? That is crazy. Do you have another S939 board that you can test the 3200+ in?

Good luck

I do actually....I have my board, and froggy's board to test it in. However the problem is that I JUST pulled my Manny out of this board, and the Manny was just fine at 2.4GHz with 1.25v. It passed 24 hours of Orthos. The ONLY thing that I've changed was the CPU.

Ugh, I hate being generous, and then people don't take me up on my offer until a year later, lol.


----------



## Blitz6804

Hence the old adage: "No good deed goes unpunished."


----------



## Oscuro

...
Errr, I'm back.

Update: Found out that my hard drive was slowly killing itself...thus, instability. Damned old samsung.

Got a 640 gig seagate, and an AC Accelero extreme for my GTX.
Next week, going to start OCing this damned thing...for the...4th time? Man...every time I try something, I get shot in the foot. Literally not using anything of the rig I "upgraded from" any more now.

I've also started folding again, now on the 8800....although it whistles everytime I start folding....really weird. GPU-Z says fan speed hasn't changed, so....I dunno. Going to have to turn the damned thing off to sleep though, I know that.

Anyways, need sleep. Going camping this weekend. Need the sleep.


----------



## StormX2

I cant tell you lol, No one has ever done a good deed for me except help me with problems on this Forum lol


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well the way I see it...

Grim didn't have a rig. He lost his rig in a theft, or a hurricane, or something like that. It wasn't his fault is all I'm saying. So it was nice that OCN members sent him such a sweet rig to begin with. I offered to send my Manny to him at that time, and well...I won't go back on my word.

It sucks that he chose NOW to want it though. After all, I did have plans for that rig to be an AWESOME HTPC build. So that really sucks for me. But hey, I'm always willing to help out fellow OCN'ers when I am able to. I also helped out DesertRat from OCN ALOT here recently. I sent him my Pentium D 2.8GHz, 570 SLI board, 1GB Ballistix, 8600GTS...all for a P4 (socket 478), OEM mobo, 1GB ValueDDR400, and X800GTO video card. So I lost out BIG TIME on that one....but hey...its all for the greater good I spose.

Don't ask me why I'm this way, lol. But when I have an abbundance of spare parts, they always leave me for less than I paid or free, lol. Go figure how that works, huh?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Oscuro*


...
I've also started folding again, now on the 8800....although it whistles everytime I start folding....really weird. GPU-Z says fan speed hasn't changed, so....I dunno. Going to have to turn the damned thing off to sleep though, I know that.


Oscuro, on my 3850 and 4850 I hear that same sound whenever I run any type of intense benchmark. Not sure if it's the electronic components producing the sound or what but it sounds kind of scary when the lights are off in my room


----------



## Anqt31

well, I decided to RMA my ASUS A8N-SLI Deluxe... it is now in the mail


----------



## boonie2

R.i.p


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


well, I decided to RMA my ASUS A8N-SLI Deluxe... it is now in the mail










Anqt, good luck. I hope you get the board back in one piece. Hopefully there isn't any "additional" costs that will have to paid.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Anqt, hopefully your ASUS RMA experience proves to be as good as my one experience with it. ASUS treated me really well and sent me a brand new A8N32-SLI Deluxe when my first one kicked the bucket last year.







I made sure to write down the serial number of my original, and when I checked the one on the board they returned to me, it was obviously a different motherboard.

Good luck!


----------



## vwgti

Hey guys, I havnt stopped in for a while. Just wanted to let you know I have secured a trade for my 5000+be for a phenom 9500. Yes a early phenom, but its a quad, and hopefully water will allow me to push 1.6 or so through it for some suicides.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

veedub! Great to see you in these parts!









Hope your "new" Phenom Quad proves phenomenal.







Please do share your adventures with it. In a way, it's like you're blazing a trail for us S939 stragglers.


----------



## vwgti

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
veedub! Great to see you in these parts!









Hope your "new" Phenom Quad proves phenomenal.







Please do share your adventures with it. In a way, it's like you're blazing a trail for us S939 stragglers.

Thanks buddy, Ill be sure to keep you all posted on results when I recieve it. I wouldnt expect phenomenal results with it being a early phenom. But I can see it making me get a sb750 motherboard when dfi releases one and a 9850be, and then making a folding rig from the 9500 and sb600 combo.


----------



## GuardianOdin

bah! I hate my job!.....sniff sniff....hows it going everyone?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vwgti* 
Thanks buddy, Ill be sure to keep you all posted on results when I recieve it. I wouldnt expect phenomenal results with it being a early phenom. But I can see it making me get a sb750 motherboard when dfi releases one and a 9850be, and then making a folding rig from the 9500 and sb600 combo.

Sweet!

I, for one, will make sure to keep my peepers peeled for when you get all your new toys in.







And may the overclocking gods smile favorably upon thee!









Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
bah! I hate my job!.....sniff sniff....hows it going everyone?

Hey, G.O.! Haven't seen enough of you, lately! We thought you hated US now.







Hope you get yourself some more time to share with us. The party just ain't the same without some "Brute Squad" action.









By the way, this is late, but I noticed Oscuro also checking in again after a while! Good to see you back in here, buddy!


----------



## vtech1

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=404095
i wanna join, txt i sent u a pm


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Please welcome our newest member, vtech1!

Our Club secretary will add you to our offsite roster as soon as he's able to. He's going to be online sporadically in the coming week or so, but rest assured you'll be added to the offsite roster. But you have been enrolled in our Club thread roster.









Once again, welcome! I hope you'll find us a good source of all things Socket 939 (as well as some occasional madcap fun).


----------



## vtech1

sweet im looking forward to it


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Hey, G.O.! Haven't seen enough of you, lately! We thought you hated US now.







Hope you get yourself some more time to share with us. The party just ain't the same without some "Brute Squad" action.









By the way, this is late, but I noticed Oscuro also checking in again after a while! Good to see you back in here, buddy!










Thanks Joe, I'm working on getting some more free time. We are now 3 people short handed at work. So that with drawing is eating my time. But I'll be here when I can.


----------



## boonie2

Welcome Vtech1


----------



## boonie2

Joe is that a light sabre ? or are you just glad to see us?


----------



## StormX2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vtech1*


http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=404095
i wanna join, txt i sent u a pm


woo a stock Opty !

lets get you crankin?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
Joe is that a light sabre ? or are you just glad to see us?









Hehe, no, not a lightsaber, boonman, but The Schwartz.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *StormX2* 
woo a stock Opty !

lets get you crankin?

Now now, Storm, we like all S939ers, stock or overclocked.







Though if vtech ever wanted to overclock his Opteron 165, he'll have no shortage of experienced hands to help him along.









Besides, pretty soon, I'll have a completely stock-clocked Opteron of my own for my home server.


----------



## StormX2

awwww

=) makes me cry to see an opty at stock speed when it is almost always able to hit atleast 2.7 without breakign a sweat


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *StormX2*


awwww

=) makes me cry to see an opty at stock speed when it is almost always able to hit atleast 2.7 without breakign a sweat


I'd have to agree with you there







.


----------



## Xyro TR1

<- Wants 3.0Ghz.

My CPU cooler keeps idle temps at 26/27C, but my load temps are CRAZY high at 60/50C. It's because there's some copper corrosion on the bottom of the cooler, so I get a craptastic contact area. I need to lap it...

PS: That's at 2.7Ghz (225x12, 1.35V)


----------



## pioneerisloud

Anybody in here play Crysis...PLAYABLE? I've got a thread going here... maybe someone from our little club can join in and give a fellow 939'er some pointers to getting playable framerates?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1* 
<- Wants 3.0Ghz.

My CPU cooler keeps idle temps at 26/27C, but my load temps are CRAZY high at 60/50C. It's because there's some copper corrosion on the bottom of the cooler, so I get a craptastic contact area. I need to lap it...

PS: That's at 2.7Ghz (225x12, 1.35V)

Hopefully lapping the Zalman CNPS9500 gets you more temperature headroom, Xyro. For sure, though, this particular HSF really needs good airflow in the case to feed it. Perhaps the best strategy is to somehow create a straight and clear pathway from intake to exhaust feeding the HSF, which means having an intake on the same horizontal frame at the front of the case. Think of it as creating something like a horizontal wind tunnel.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Anybody in here play Crysis...PLAYABLE? I've got a thread going here... maybe someone from our little club can join in and give a fellow 939'er some pointers to getting playable framerates?

I'd love to help you out, pio, but I don't own Crysis. Funnily enough, thlnk3r and I were just talking about that game today over lunch. I thought about picking up a copy at Fry's when I stopped there on my way home from thlnk3r's neck of the woods.









By the way, pio, did the package get to you yet?


----------



## Xyro TR1

I do Crysis in DX9, all settings max. Dunno what FPS, but it never lags.

I'll reinstall it on this system and share my configuration. =)


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*


<- Wants 3.0Ghz.

My CPU cooler keeps idle temps at 26/27C, but my load temps are CRAZY high at 60/50C. It's because there's some copper corrosion on the bottom of the cooler, so I get a craptastic contact area. I need to lap it...

PS: That's at 2.7Ghz (225x12, 1.35V)


if your CPU load temp is maxing at 60c...that's not that bad.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


if your CPU load temp is maxing at 60c...that's not that bad.


No, that's not bad at all. At 3.0GHz I load at 66*C. 1*C past thermal spec, but hey....it'll live, lol.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Anybody in here play Crysis...PLAYABLE? I've got a thread going here... maybe someone from our little club can join in and give a fellow 939'er some pointers to getting playable framerates?


I play 1920x1200, no AA, all-medium; I get about 35-40 FPS.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I play 1920x1200, no AA, all-medium; I get about 35-40 FPS.

Yeah, see I'm having a HARD time getting even the high settings playable at 1440x900







. I'm almost wondering if a new driver is needed (I'm on 175.16's currently).


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Yeah, see I'm having a HARD time getting even the high settings playable at 1440x900







. I'm almost wondering if a new driver is needed (I'm on 175.16's currently).

Man... something isn't right. Your rig should be just fine. Mine was before Crossfire, and it was stock CPU then, too. I still got ~36FPS Set to High (no DX10, no Very High) with 2xAA.


----------



## Xyro TR1

*Random:*

Finally got my case pics up. Need to finish my cabling and get my fans in...

Yes, my 'puter lives in the closet.

Link to pictures in siggy.


----------



## elito

please add me in. =]

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=404775


----------



## Blitz6804

Txtmstrjoe will add you to the roster as soon as he is able to. I will add you and vtech1 to the roster as soon as I get back to Amherst. I currently lack the master HTML page to edit, and to download it from the server would be dealing with sloppy code. I do not know why, but Freewebs takes it upon themselves to delete all the spacing I put in the page.

--ares--: you never told us; you want in? I will add you with elito and vtech1 if so.

Welcome to the club elito and vtech!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Please welcome our newest member: elito.







Great to have you with us!


----------



## elito

yay! ^ ^ oc'ing that 165..only took 5mins to adjust settings..yet..8hrs of running orthos.. ^ ^


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *elito* 
yay! ^ ^ oc'ing that 165..only took 5mins to adjust settings..yet..8hrs of running orthos.. ^ ^

Dial it up!


----------



## Blitz6804

--ares-- wants in too; you missed him. See his validation.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


--ares-- wants in too; you missed him. See his validation.


Oopsy corrected.

Thanks.


----------



## boonie2

Welcome Elito


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hey boonie, what happened to you saying you were in the Stock Cooler Contest?









It looks like it's gonna be a shambles, a one car race.


----------



## boonie2

Tough times here lately Joe , the parent company of the company I work for closed down the WHOLE STATE , 7 different regions , been here for 6 yrs{we build single and multi-family homes} so everyones scrambling to find work now , the job market here in fla. is "bleak" to say the least .... we have maybe a month to finish up everythings thats been started then .................







who knows ... it doesnt look good , been thinking about getting my CDL license and driving a tractor trailer ..... If I can dedicate some time to the contest ill try , but I just dont know


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Roger that, boonie. Sorry to hear things are tough at the moment.









If there's anything I can do to help out, buddy, give me a holler.


----------



## boonie2

Thanks Joe , its all work out ok .. its either that or give up hahaha


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well if a certain package from a certain somebody ever shows up.....

I'll join in the fun of the stock cooler contest







. I may be a judge, but I'll follow the rules and everything







. I can be excluded from the actual judging...I'll join in the fun though.

C'mon guys! Do it for the lulz!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 







Tough times here lately Joe , the parent company of the company I work for closed down the WHOLE STATE , 7 different regions , been here for 6 yrs{we build single and multi-family homes} so everyones scrambling to find work now , the job market here in fla. is "bleak" to say the least .... we have maybe a month to finish up everythings thats been started then .................







who knows ... it doesnt look good , been thinking about getting my CDL license and driving a tractor trailer ..... If I can dedicate some time to the contest ill try , but I just dont know









Get that CDL man! Working at a motel I talk to many many Truck drivers "85% of our business" if you can find work as a Car Hauler they you can make some very good money. I'm talking about transporting cars/trucks for Ford,Nissan,Chevy and such. From the factory to the dealerships. Anyway good luck to you. My brother in law is a bricklayer and I have seen first hand how bad the housing market is. People being laid off for 6 months to a year now.


----------



## Xyro TR1

I should get my 3500+ and throw it in the A8N-E...

I doubt it'll clock very high, but it's worth a shot.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1* 
I should get my 3500+ and throw it in the A8N-E...

I doubt it'll clock very high, but it's worth a shot.

The highest I got mine way back when was 2.6Ghz. That was before I really started OCing anything.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Well if a certain package from a certain somebody ever shows up.....

I'll join in the fun of the stock cooler contest







. I may be a judge, but I'll follow the rules and everything







. I can be excluded from the actual judging...I'll join in the fun though.

C'mon guys! Do it for the lulz!

Hey pio, doesn't our contest end tonight?









Speaking of that package, now I'm getting really worried. The one time I send something (anything) without a tracking number, it turns out M.I.A. I bought insurance for the package, but it's not the same as a tracking number.

For what it's worth, I sent it via USPS Priority Mail. If possible, please do check your local post office if you still don't have it a couple of days from now; perhaps it's waiting for you there.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1* 
I should get my 3500+ and throw it in the A8N-E...

I doubt it'll clock very high, but it's worth a shot.

I'd do it.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I'll check it out tomorrow if it hasn't arrived yet







.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Get that CDL man! Working at a motel I talk to many many Truck drivers "85% of our business" if you can find work as a Car Hauler they you can make some very good money. I'm talking about transporting cars/trucks for Ford,Nissan,Chevy and such. From the factory to the dealerships. Anyway good luck to you. My brother in law is a bricklayer and I have seen first hand how bad the housing market is. People being laid off for 6 months to a year now.



Thanks Odin , Im def. going to do that , Dont see the market getting any better anytime soon .. It was always amazing to me how many houses we were building {50-60 a month} all $300-$500 thousand each , and we were just 1 company of hundreds down here ... sooner or later theres a point where theres too many houses and not enough buyers , not to mention the economy going into the crapper


----------



## Techtrancer_Wien

X2 3800+ Toledo * 3,20 GHz @ 1,500 V * LCBQE 0718 VPMW * WakÃ¼ @ 25Â°C * without HS * 3,2 h Prime * Techtrancer_Wien* Link


AMD X2 3800+ Toledo * 3,00 GHz @ 1,440 V * LCB9E 0719 RPMW * WakÃ¼ @ 24Â°C * without HS * 3 h Prime * Techtrancer_Wien * Link


AMD X2 3800+ Toledo * 2,90 GHz @ 1,520 V * LCBIE 0621 VPMW * WakÃ¼ @ 29Â°C * without HS * 3,5 h Prime * Techtrancer_Wien * Link


AMD X2 3800+ Toledo * 2,97 GHz @ 1,520 V * LCBWE 0617 FPMW * WakÃ¼ @ 24Â°C * without HS * 3,2 h Prime * Techtrancer_Wien * Link


AMD X2 4200+ Toledo * 3,15 GHz @ 1,504 V * LCBQE 0723 VPMW * WakÃ¼ @ 24Â°C * without HS * 3,1 h Prime * Techtrancer_Wien * Link


AMD X2 4200+ Toledo * 3,00 GHz @ 1,456 V * LCBQE 0723 VPMW * WakÃ¼ @ 34Â°C * without HS * 5,0 h Prime * Techtrancer_Wien * Link


----------



## Techtrancer_Wien

AMD Opteron 170 Denmark * 3,33 GHz @ 1,520 V * LCBQE 0722 RPBW * WakÃ¼ @ 26Â°C * without HS * 3 h Prime * Techtrancer_Wien * Link


AMD Opteron 170 Denmark * 3,23 GHz @ 1,584 V * LCBQE 0722 RPBW * WakÃ¼ @ 25Â°C * without HS * 3 h Prime * Techtrancer_Wien * Link


AMD Opteron 170 Denmark * 3,31 GHz @ 1,568 V * CCB1E 0609 FPAW * WakÃ¼ @ 26Â°C * without HS * 4,9 h Prime * Techtrancer_Wien * Link


AMD Opteron 170 Denmark * 3,15 GHz @ 1,424 V * LCB9E 0651 RPMW * WakÃ¼ @ 21Â°C * without HS * 3 h Prime * Techtrancer_Wien * Link


----------



## Blitz6804

Holy too much money Batman!

That is a large collection of Toledos Techtrancer_Wien. I am curious what WakÃ¼ means; perhaps you could enlighten me? If I had to guess, I would say either you had the Opteron 170s first and were used to a 10x multi, or you just did not want to be bothered with the X2s' 11x multi. In any event, welcome to the club and OCN; we look forward to speaking with such a well-stocked overclocker!

Txtmstrjoe will add you to the main roster sometime later today. I will add you to the sub-roster sometime later in the week.


----------



## pioneerisloud

*I CALL DIBS ON ONE OF THE 3.3GHZ CHIPS IF HE EVER DECIDES TO SELL OR TRADE!!!*

Your just jealous cuz I called it first







.


----------



## StormX2

haha that woul dbe prety nice, hough watercooling would probobly be neccesary I will assume


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *StormX2* 
haha that woul dbe prety nice, hough watercooling would probobly be neccesary I will assume

Nah dude, I'm not afraid of high temps! You forget...my X2 used to run at 80-90*C under load







. Although you may not have been around at those times.


----------



## StormX2

lol i remember them well, I payed close attention o everything any Opty use did lol

eitherway i know my Stock cooler is good, but i doubt that good for 1.5 v!

I still have work to do just to get stability for 312+ fsb

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Current settings

302 Fsb
x9 CPU multi
x3 htt multi

cpu Vid 1.375v Bios
LDT Bus 1.22 v
Chipset Voltage 1.52v
dram 2.77 v

(they dont seem to blip at all in bios very steady)

the memory timings have wayyy to many options and names so i never knwo what to set -.-

cpc auto
tcl 2.5
tras 3 bus clocks
trp 4 bus clocks
trc 7 bus clock
trfc auto
trrd 2 bus clocks
twr2 bus clockas
twtr02 bus clocks
trwt 3 bus clocks
tref 3120 cycles
twcl cas latency auto

and then a bunch more commands all for the ram only -.-
as i is seems liek the Chipset does run a little hot.
39c seems to be its point in bios idle wher ethe cpu is shown aroudn 34c

So if anyone knwo what My next step to achieve stability for lets sa 315 fsb

windows with current setting making sure not to overdue ram and HTT, wont boot after 310 fsb it looks like.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *StormX2* 
lol i remember them well, I payed close attention o everything any Opty use did lol

eitherway i know my Stock cooler is good, but i doubt that good for 1.5 v!

I still have work to do just to get stability for 312+ fsb

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Current settings

302 Fsb
x9 CPU multi
x3 htt multi

cpu Vid 1.375v Bios
LDT Bus 1.22 v
Chipset Voltage 1.52v
dram 2.77 v

(they dont seem to blip at all in bios very steady)

the memory timings have wayyy to many options and names so i never knwo what to set -.-

cpc auto
tcl 2.5
tras 3 bus clocks
trp 4 bus clocks
trc 7 bus clock
trfc auto
trrd 2 bus clocks
twr2 bus clockas
twtr02 bus clocks
trwt 3 bus clocks
tref 3120 cycles
twcl cas latency auto

and then a bunch more commands all for the ram only -.-
as i is seems liek the Chipset does run a little hot.
39c seems to be its point in bios idle wher ethe cpu is shown aroudn 34c

So if anyone knwo what My next step to achieve stability for lets sa 315 fsb

windows with current setting making sure not to overdue ram and HTT, wont boot after 310 fsb it looks like.

Well I for one can say loosen your tRC down some. I think i have mine set to 12??? I think. Other than that, I honestly couldn't tell ya. Have you tried perhaps just using a few more "auto" settings on the RAM to let the board pick out what "should" work?

EDIT:
Those settings cannot possibly be right??? You say your tRas is 3...but I didn't even know that to be an option! I thought it was 5-15? Maybe you could just take a pic of your memory settings in BIOS?


----------



## StormX2

yah i took the pic on my phioen, thats what I was typing the info from! lol

i canot upload the photo, but when I get home I will See if I can find a DigiCam that I can Upload with.


----------



## Blitz6804

I can say right now your tRC looks to be too tight. Yes, it is set right with tRP/tRAS, but as Pioneer said, I think your tRAS is a little too tight. Loosen the tRAS/tRC/tRFC, and you should clock right up.

All else fails, consider the following:

tCL = 3.0
tRCD = 3/4*
tRP = 3/4*
tRAS = 8
tRC = 11/12*
tRFC = 14/15*

Everything else can be left at auto. Command rate may or may not need to be 2t depending how picky your DFI is with RAM.

*Some motherboards do better with 3s, others with 4s. tRC/tRFC should be 11/14 if the previous sentence took a 3.


----------



## thlnk3r

Welcome Vtech and Elito to the club


----------



## boonie2

Blitz has got it about right stormX , loosen the timmings alittle and it should go right up , im running mine @ 3-4-4-10 trc is at 14 / 2.6v ... 332x9 , no way i can run 1t tho {of course with those 500s you wouldnt have any trouble at all







lol }


----------



## StormX2

I will deffinitely do that when I get home. mm I will need to print this info out though

What Voltage should I be looking at for the 312+ fsb?

and if I may be looking to replace the chipset cooler I will happily take a recommendation, as I will look for a hand me down if possible.

(id prefer to NOT spend any more money on this rig ^^ )

Though I want to extend the use of this CPU as farrrrrr as possibl sicne it is so dam sexy.
-- and I still dont knwo if I feel like buyin a new GPU or not lol
obviously anythign I do ill be bottlenecked untill i get this a lil higher.


----------



## StormX2

dam u Boonie

Convince me wih what they can perform at, what clocks and iming at what Voltage can I achieve with the 500's

im just trying to think, Everyone always said to keep the timing as tight as possible with the 939 machines.


----------



## boonie2

just messin with ya Storm







, just loosen them up till you get your fsb where you want then tighten em up alittle at a time see what works best for ya







theres a link somewhere if i can find it on what all the bios settings do in our DFI bios and recommended settings Ill send it when i find it .. youll make yourself KRAZY tryin to figure them all out


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *StormX2* 
what clocks and iming at what Voltage can I achieve with the 500's

Storm, you probably won't know until you start testing. Please make sure to use memtest(tests 5 and 8) when you start testing. I stopped counting on all the times my OS went south because I thought my memory overclocks were stable









Good luck buddy


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *StormX2* 
im just trying to think, Everyone always said to keep the timing as tight as possible with the 939 machines.

Sure, you want to keep timings tight. JEDEC for DDR 400 (or DDR2 400) is 3-3-3-8. While there is no JEDEC for DDR 500, the JEDEC for DDR2 533 is 4-4-4-12. You would expect DDR 500 to be between these two.

With 939 rigs, our RAM tends to be slower but with tighter timings. An AM2 4400+ would likely be running DDR2 800 to my DDR 400. Their RAM will be 5-5-5-15 to my 2-3-2-6; slower RAM can be ran tighter. If you want faster RAM, you must loosen the latency, and if you want tighter timings, you must slow it down. Maybe drop the RAM divider to permit a higher HTT? I found that my Gigabyte would not POST above a 255 HTT unless I reduced the tRC/tRFC to be very loose. I was getting frustrated that it would not post at 256 MHz even though I had my timings set at 3-5-5-10. Drop the tRC to 19 and the tRFC to 22, and my 3.0 GHz ran resulted.

The only way to avoid this is to get RAM designed to run higher and tighter and/or designed to take more voltage to the same end. Most memories you notice can only run their "certified speeds" at greater-than-JEDEC voltage. The Corsairs I sold to Pioneer for example. They do 3-3-3-8 @ 2.5, but 2-3-3-6 @ 2.75 V. I would not take your Corsairs above 2.90 without checking RAM temperatures. The coolers on the XMS Pro are outstanding, but sooner or later the voltage will catch up with you.


----------



## Techtrancer_Wien

@ blitz6804

sorry! WAKÃœ ist germany it is the same like watercooling
this are my last 939 screens, because i have sell all of them, because my mainboard was demaged


----------



## Blitz6804

Ah, danke. You wish to be a nostalgic then? What sort of rig are you running now? If AM2, might you be interested in vwgti's endeavor? We have no problem having you on as a nostalgic here and an active member there. All we care about is that you love(d) Socket 939! (^_^)


----------



## thlnk3r

Techtrancer, nonetheless those are some awesome overclocks









Blitz, check your gmail.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *StormX2* 
Convince me wih what they can perform at, what clocks and iming at what Voltage can I achieve with the 500's

im just trying to think, *Everyone always said to keep the timing as tight as possible with the 939 machines.*

Up to a certain extent, this is true. Bandwidth is optimized with tighter timings, but if you can get your RAM frequency high enough (this frequency is different for every type of RAM IC), you can get even more bandwidth than through tightening the timings so much.

Hope this helps!


----------



## StormX2

ah much to do , much to do

and so little time to do any of it ^^


----------



## Techtrancer_Wien

yes. 939 is special! it was the ground, why i use it so long. i want to find an sampl, who runs 3,4 ore more in prime. but than my mainboard was demages and so i bye a new one for AM2

there i have running at the moment an X2 4200+ G2 Brisbane @ 3,41 Ghz in prime under water and a X2 6400+ Winsor F3 @ 3,62 Ghz in prime under water.

if anybody is interested, i sell the X2 6400+ @ 3,62 Ghz!


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Guys i am moving away from the s939 since my Q6600 comes this week. Well i am still using my system but as a secondary one.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*


Guys i am moving away from the s939 since my Q6600 comes this week. Well i am still using my system but as a secondary one.


ZealotKi11er, no problem. Good luck with your Q6600


----------



## Techtrancer_Wien

here an everest benchmark of my fastest DDR1 2 x 1gb Memory kit

Qimonda CF-5 !!

i search long time for e second kit, but i can not find :-(



and here my Superpi1M run with this memory. 
i think it is the fastest superpi1M run around the world with 2 x 1gb DDR1 memory with an AMD 939 Dualcore


----------



## thlnk3r

Techtrancer, nice superpi times









Boy that was some dangerous memory...very destructive!

Good luck mate


----------



## Anqt31

hey Techtrancer_Wien, what mobo you using?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Please welcome our newest member, Techtrancer Wien!

A most impressive collection of overclocks, Techtrancer! I only included three of your validations on our first page roster in the thread since we have a character limitation that we're pushing right up against. Rest assured, though, that if we didn't have a character limitation, I'd be proud to display all of your great overclocks on the roster.









Blitz's off-site roster, as far as I know, does not have any character limitations, so I'd think your entire collection can be on display there.

Welcome! And awesome job on your S939 CPUs!


----------



## pioneerisloud

I'm still really jealous







. I wish my chip could clock that high.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I'm still really jealous







. I wish my chip could clock that high.

Bah. Jealousy is for the weak.









Ain't nothin' shabby with a chip that can hit 2.8GHz + on sub-1.3V VCore. Don'tcha forget that.









I must ask you: Did it get there? Or do I have to raise some H-E-double hockey sticks?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Bah. Jealousy is for the weak.









Ain't nothin' shabby with a chip that can hit 2.8GHz + on sub-1.3V VCore. Don'tcha forget that.









I must ask you: Did it get there? Or do I have to raise some H-E-double hockey sticks?

That is a big negative. Nothing has arrived yet







. I will be headed to the post office tomorrow morning to see if anything shows up. Although I really don't think they're going to be able to help me much there I'm afraid.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
That is a big negative. Nothing has arrived yet







. I will be headed to the post office tomorrow morning to see if anything shows up. Although I really don't think they're going to be able to help me much there I'm afraid.

Why not?

I'll have to ask my girlfriend about the insurance I paid for on the package. If I have to collect, I'll just send you the money.

I'm just feeling quite annoyed: The one time I send something without a tracking number, it seems to be have disappeared off the face of the earth.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Why not?

I'll have to ask my girlfriend about the insurance I paid for on the package. If I have to collect, I'll just send you the money.

I'm just feeling quite annoyed: The one time I send something without a tracking number, it seems to be have disappeared off the face of the earth.









I'm just relaying the message







. PM on your way joe.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Joe!!! I haven't forgot our talks about the CPU. I just do not have any cash right now

and WELCOME NEW MEMBERS!!!!!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Joe!!! I haven't forgot our talks about the CPU. I just do not have any cash right now

and WELCOME NEW MEMBERS!!!!!

No worries, G.O.

She's still here, waiting for you.







She was asking, though, "When is my new master going to take custody of me?"


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
No worries, G.O.

She's still here, waiting for you.







She was asking, though, "When is my new master going to take custody of me?"

soon I hope. My sister found out that her mortgage company wants to work things out with the house and looks like there is a possibility they may be able to keep it! If that happens, then I'll be able to put some cash to buy her from ya


----------



## thr33niL

Seeing how ginormous this thread is, I wish I would have known about it before now. Probably could have learned a bunch about my Opty.

Putting together pieces for a Phenom rig at the moment. But have been running an Opty 165 LCBQE @ 2.8 on stock voltage for over a year. Huge upgrade from my old FX-53 chip. After _years_ using 939 socket based systems, its time to move on up. I just got a huge box off goodies in from NewEgg today and it made me realize the end is near for my Opty rig.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thr33niL* 
Seeing how ginormous this thread is, I wish I would have known about it before now. Probably could have learned a bunch about my Opty.

Putting together pieces for a Phenom rig at the moment. But have been running an Opty 165 LCBQE @ 2.8 on stock voltage for over a year. Huge upgrade from my old FX-53 chip. After _years_ using 939 socket based systems, its time to move on up. I just got a huge box off goodies in from NewEgg today and it made me realize the end is near for my Opty rig.










Well this would be a great place to sell them 939 parts if you decide too. I'm really wanting to go with a new rig, but I'm waiting for AM3 to hit before I do......and the whole needing cash part


----------



## GuardianOdin

My wishlist at newegg


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


My wishlist at newegg


That's always my wishlist







. However I think realistically, and I know I'd never be able to afford something that nice. At least not these days.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
That's always my wishlist







. However I think realistically, and I know I'd never be able to afford something that nice. At least not these days.

hey, I have an extra kidney







I mean really...do ya need two of them?


----------



## boonie2

Welcome to the new members







........ TECHTRANCER WIEN ... Awsome Opty you have there @ 3.4 .... I thought I felt the earth move for a second


----------



## Techtrancer_Wien

@ Anqt31

i use an DFI UT CFX3200-DR

it is an good mainboard for overclock, but not for normal use, because it has much bugs!

@ txtmstrjoe

thank you! why dont you use my 3 fastest 939 CPUs for the list?

AMD X2 3800+ Toledo * 3,20 GHz @ 1,500 V 
AMD X2 4200+ Toledo * 3,15 GHz @ 1,504 V
AMD Opteron 170 Denmark * 3,33 GHz @ 1,520 V


----------



## Blitz6804

It will be pretty soon that the on-site roster will need to be one CPU per customer and/or only listing the CPUs without validation links.

As Joe said, rest assured, every CPU you post for me, I will be putting up on the off-site. Just two more days Techtrancer_Wien, and you will supplant the previous multi-owner, prosser13 with five.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Techtrancer_Wien*


@ Anqt31

i use an DFI UT CFX3200-DR

it is an good mainboard for overclock, but not for normal use, because it has much bugs!


Techtrancer, that's very interesting. Txtmstrjoe has that same board...I believe he is still in the process of testing


----------



## txtmstrjoe

LOL I agree with Techtrancer. The CFX3200-DR is buggy (I'm seeing this every time I use the board), but there are some workarounds, fortunately. By reputation, though, it's the most monstrous overclocking motherboard for S939 available.









I sure hope this proves to be the case. It'll be fun getting to know this mysterious lady...


----------



## Blitz6804

And as soon as you tire of her... I do not mind taking her off your hands. If you donate her, I promise to donate my Abit to another member.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
And as soon as you tire of her... I do not mind taking her off your hands. If you donate her, I promise to donate my Abit to another member.

*IF* I tire of her, I'll keep you in mind.

Buggy motherboard to buggy friend. Match made in heaven.
















Just kidding, Lone Star!


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes, the Schwartz is a powerful ally. But as you well know, I hate it when I get my Schwartz twisted.

I am trying to get another member to join us; we shall see if he choses to in a few hours.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I am trying to get another member to join us; we shall see if he choses to in a few hours.

Blitz, are you the recruiter now?


----------



## Anqt31

we have a recruiter now? Anyways, I'll be bringing one of my friends to the club pretty soon; Since I have an opty 165 now, I'm setting him up with my old x2 4200+


----------



## iandroo888

what u guys think of this ? i posted a thread on craigslist tryin to sell my sig rig. but no answers haha


----------



## Techtrancer_Wien

@ txtmstrjoe

forget it to search the fix fÃ¼r the bugs! there is no fix. the only way for a bugfree CFX is an new bios.

the bios is the only problem. ASUS fix the coldstartbug und the ulibug with their second bios. DFI dont fixe them. DFI also test the CFX only with singelcores and the big problems comes if you put an dualcore inside

ore did you know of the restartbug if the mainboard is in the internet?
if it is and you shut it down, the mainboard boots again after a while!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Techtrancer_Wien* 
@ txtmstrjoe

forget it to search the fix fÃ¼r the bugs! there is no fix. the only way for a bugfree CFX is an new bios.

the bios is the only problem. ASUS fix the coldstartbug und the ulibug with their second bios. DFI dont fixe them. DFI also test the CFX only with singelcores and the big problems comes if you put an dualcore inside

ore did you know of the restartbug if the mainboard is in the internet?
if it is and you shut it down, the mainboard boots again after a while!

Yeah, I've read about so many horror stories, specifically about the ULi M1575 Southbridge and its SATA controller. Tons of issues, especially when running RAID. One of the suggested workarounds is to simply use the Silicon Image SATAI controller, or maybe a PCI/PCI-E SATA controller card for the HDDs.

So far, with my very limited testing experience with this board, I've only seen the ULi bug. The system would freeze unpredictably; per my research, this is most likely to heavy I/O traffic on the SATA controller. I've only used the ULi controller at this point (because I didn't have a floppy drive handy when I first installed the OS on the system).

It's also extremely sensitive to RAM settings. Many of the settings I've only ever seen on this board, and for many of these they have to be set manually.

It's really a board for someone who likes to test.







Plug and play doesn't work too well for this board.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


what u guys think of this


Iandroo, I'm not to sure what to think. Why is there two processors listed and two different sets of memory? Is it me or am I missing something? Make sure you're removing the items off your wish list


----------



## StormX2

haha you knwo i still have not done that Change to my memory timings lol

I need to go back to those Posts and print out the settings you guys suggested


----------



## Anqt31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
what u guys think of this ? i posted a thread on craigslist tryin to sell my sig rig. but no answers haha

iandroo, have you thought about any of the lian-li cases? they are pretty nice and look to be in your price range... also, I saw that you were looking @ the q6700 or 6600. Go with one of the 45nm like the q9450. and remember, corsair ftw!


----------



## Blitz6804

Quite frankly, it is my opinion that the Intel discussion has no place here. If a wandering mod happened to remove any mentions of it, I would certainly not complain.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Iandroo, I'm not to sure what to think. Why is there two processors listed and two different sets of memory? Is it me or am I missing something? Make sure you're removing the items off your wish list










lookin at either the q6600 or q6700. heard they were very nice overclockers. and not sure on the memory. havent really decided on the board yet.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


iandroo, have you thought about any of the lian-li cases? they are pretty nice and look to be in your price range... also, I saw that you were looking @ the q6700 or 6600. Go with one of the 45nm like the q9450. and remember, corsair ftw!


i was considering lian-li. but lian-li doesnt have any mid-tower with psu mount on bottom. and 120mm fans. i need a case that has those 3 at least. i was thinkin about the 45nm but dunoe which one. corsair ftw? really? whats your opinions of it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Quite frankly, it is my opinion that the Intel discussion has no place here. If a wandering mod happened to remove any mentions of it, I would certainly not complain.


-.-"


----------



## pioneerisloud

I would really have to agree with Blitz on that one. It'd probably be best if you posted your Intel related questions in the Intel section. If you wanted our opinions...you could always drop a link to your post our way...and let us know that you value our input







. That'd probably be the best way to do it.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


iandroo, have you thought about any of the lian-li cases? they are pretty nice and look to be in your price range... also, I saw that you were looking @ the q6700 or 6600. Go with one of the 45nm like the q9450. and remember, corsair ftw!

















BLASPHEMY


----------



## StormX2

yh i do not like the idea of seeing mention of Intel processors here ^^

It would be like talking abouta Cute girl in the "HeMan Woman Haters Club"


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *StormX2*


yh i do not like the idea of seeing mention of Intel processors here ^^

It would be like talking abouta Cute girl in the "HeMan Woman Haters Club"


----------



## Blitz6804

For any following my GPU stories, here is the scoop:

I installed a second HD 3850 512 MB yesterday. Graphics were beautiful, but not that stable. For example, 3DMark06 constantly crashed at 1:17 on the first game. (Return to Proxycon.) I thought nothing of it, and attempted to use some games. Again, thinks looked beautiful until they stopped working. After a short time, the computer would go into hard lock. I thought that it was possible that my PSU was not strong enough, so I ordered an 850 W model.

Fast forward to this morning. On a lark, I decided to test just the new HD 3850. Surprise, running only that card will ALSO make 3DMark06 crash 1:17 into Return to Proxycon. I returned my prior 3850, which proceeded to make the run though 3DMark06 without even a sniffle. Further, I have just finished playing a 12-hour stint on CoD with it; it is fine.

So, I called up Newegg and canceled the power supply. While I had them, I also had them start an RMA on the new video card. It unfortunately was a gift from my parents, not one I bought myself, and as such, the box must go to them. Looks like I will be without Crossfire for another month.

(>_<









*Kicks the auto-smilies across the room*


----------



## pioneerisloud

Sorry to hear that Blitz







. Hope you get it worked out soon, so we can still pwn you in COD4







.


----------



## StormX2

wow, thats pretty dam lame!

i am still juggling the thought of wether a new GPU is worth my time ^^
Knowing that anything i pu there will be limited till i do a whole new build in the future.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Fast forward to this morning. On a lark, I decided to test just the new HD 3850. Surprise, running only that card will ALSO make 3DMark06 crash 1:17 into Return to Proxycon. I returned my prior 3850, which proceeded to make the run though 3DMark06 without even a sniffle. Further, I have just finished playing a 12-hour stint on CoD with it; it is fine.

Blitz, were you able to view the temps in GPU-Z or CCC while stress testing the 3850? Are the crashes random after several hours of gameplay or is after a certain amount of time? It could possibly be a cooling issue. Did you check the TIM on the cooler?

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Both cards are within thermal spec. The Vantec-cooled one is about 5Âº C cooler than the stock-cooled one. The hard-locks take about 1-10 *(minutes) of GPU load when in games. (Different CoD maps stress different amounts.) 3DMark almost always causes a hard-lock at 1:17 on Return to Proxycon. If it makes it though, it hard locks about 5 seconds into Canyon flight. This happens in Crossfire or a single-card configuration with the suspect card.


----------



## iandroo888

k fine no intel questions then >.<".just wanted see what your opinions on it were.not get freaking flamed. haters...

new question. someone on ocn wanted to trade a Tuniq Tower with a scythe slipstream fan for zalman 9700. good trade? or no? which is better?


----------



## StormX2

wish i had me a Tuniq lol


----------



## Blitz6804

Absolutely take the Sunbeam over the Zalman. Its cooling performance is superior.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Both cards are within thermal spec. The Vantec-cooled one is about 5Âº C cooler than the stock-cooled one. The hard-locks take about 1-10 *(minutes) of GPU load when in games. (Different CoD maps stress different amounts.) 3DMark almost always causes a hard-lock at 1:17 on Return to Proxycon. If it makes it though, it hard locks about 5 seconds into Canyon flight. This happens in Crossfire or a single-card configuration with the suspect card.


Blitz, were you able to test the 3850 in another machine or motherboard to confirm this? If I am not mistaken wasn't your OS installation from another board? Are you able to run the 3D view from ATITool .27b while viewing the temps? 3DMark and COD4 don't even come close to taxing the card.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes, I ran 3D View from ATItool 0.27b while viewing temps. If I run my first card solely, it'll run indefinitely. If I run the new card solely, the computer will go into hard lockup. If I run Crossfire, there is no crash, but on the other hand, GPU 1 (the good one) is loading at 99% and GPU 2 (the bad one) is loading at 1%.


----------



## StormX2

boh the same brands and everything??


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Yes, I ran 3D View from ATItool 0.27b while viewing temps. If I run my first card solely, it'll run indefinitely. If I run the new card solely, the computer will go into hard lockup. If I run Crossfire, there is no crash, but on the other hand, GPU 1 (the good one) is loading at 99% and GPU 2 (the bad one) is loading at 1%.


Blitz, how long did you run the ATITool .27b 3D View? What were the temps?

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

With the good card, well over 6 hours; temps did not exceed 65Âº C. With the bad card, the PC locks up within 10 minutes.

StormX2: Both are Diamond HD 3850 512 MB Ruby Editions


----------



## StormX2

well I wold have to say getting the RMA is a smart idea ^^
Its obviously Busted in some way.


----------



## Blitz6804

I have already filled it out. Newegg told me to send the board to them, they will send me out another.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


With the good card, well over 6 hours; temps did not exceed 65Âº C. With the bad card, the PC locks up within 10 minutes.

StormX2: Both are Diamond HD 3850 512 MB Ruby Editions


Blitz, I'm assuming you tried both PCI-E slots?

You should receive the new card pretty quick. Newegg's RMA service is very speedy


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes and no. Since my dad purchased it as a gift, it will again be sent to his domicile. So yes, the RMA should be fast. How long it is until I have my hands on it is another matter. I am hoping my GF will visit me in September; she will be able to bring it with her when she comes.


----------



## StormX2

that suxxxxxxxxxx


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Yes and no. Since my dad purchased it as a gift, it will again be sent to his domicile. So yes, the RMA should be fast. How long it is until I have my hands on it is another matter. I am hoping my GF will visit me in September; she will be able to bring it with her when she comes.

Blitz, I have a feeling you should have bought a 4850 instead of two 3850's









What kind of crazy resolutions do you plan on running with these two 3850's?


----------



## Blitz6804

1920x1200; highest AA I can get away with. A pair of 4850s was out of my budget, or believe me, I would have gotten them.


----------



## StormX2

o snap, my company still have opteron 180's in stock

Opteron 180

If i didnt already have a 165, this would be mine

Get it for 131.99 shipped -.- I almost bought it just for the higher multi lol

wish i could find out the stepping info


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
1920x1200; highest AA I can get away with. A pair of 4850s was out of my budget, or believe me, I would have gotten them.

Blitz, oh sorry I meant a single 4850









Quote:


Originally Posted by *StormX2* 
o snap, my company still have opteron 180's in stock

Opteron 180

If i didnt already have a 165, this would be mine

Get it for 131.99 shipped -.- I almost bought it just for the higher multi lol

wish i could find out the stepping info

Storm, the 180's were eh ok overclockers. The average OC is probably up to where a 165 or 170 would be and most of the time not even that.

Good luck


----------



## StormX2

i would have only got it so i could try for the 3 ghz without being 300+ fsb

but theres no way idactually replace mine with a 180.

id grab a 4870 long before I change out this proc


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Blitz, why go for two HD 4850s, when one would be plenty for the resolutions you plan on running?


----------



## StormX2

he wants moar?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *StormX2*


he wants moar?


Storm, quite frankly I wish I was able to get more out of my system when I purchased my 4850. To be honest even a 3850 was too powerful for my rig. The rest of my system just could not keep up. I hardly noticed a difference between a 3850 and 4850. The selling point was the 800 stream processors (like that made a difference)


----------



## StormX2

yah im pretty well aware as my current gpu is a little bogged down
its just.. i liek this machine...

its really fast.. but I cannot-not build and tinker -.-
no sexy machine i want to build - but i want moar power!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

LOL Off topic alert, but I just have to say it again: Storm, I LOVE that avatar! ROFL

Nothing like Rumble rumblin' to a ghetto Blaster.


----------



## Techtrancer_Wien

two HD 4850 is to much for 939! one alone is more than enough!

you need a quadcore for two HD 4850!


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


k fine no intel questions then >.<".just wanted see what your opinions on it were.not get freaking flamed. haters...

new question. someone on ocn wanted to trade a Tuniq Tower with a scythe slipstream fan for zalman 9700. good trade? or no? which is better?


Funny you say that. I just put a Scythe Slipstream fan in my Tuniq Tower today (stock fan died).

As far as being a good trade it wouldn't be for the person getting the Zalman. The Tuniq is a far better cooler (imo of course).


----------



## iandroo888

iunoe but whatever. i have an extra 9700 sitting here. would liek to play with the popular tuniq tower.

whats a good trade strategy? he wants me to send mine b4 he sends the tuniq. cuz he says he has no heatsink otehrwise


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


*iunoe* but whatever. i have an extra 9700 sitting here. would liek to play with the popular tuniq tower.

whats a good trade strategy? he wants me to send mine b4 he sends the tuniq. cuz he says he has no heatsink otehrwise


I'm confused about the bold part of the above quote.

Anyway regrading the trade that's a tough one. The TT (Tuniq Tower) is an excellent cooler and the odds that he would trade straight across are slim if he knows his stuff. I would say your best bet is to offer a trade and some cash. How mush cash depends on what you get with the cooler (i.e. does it include all the mounting hardware, none, or some? Is the fan still in working condition? Etc.).

Just to give you an idea of what they're worth I paid $40 shipped for mine and it was only 3 months old. That included all of the hardware and it was packed in the original box.


----------



## boonie2

Sounds like a sucker move too me







never ship first in trades , unless you dont care about getting beat .... better to be safe than sorry







... case in point - "sublimO" from this forum afew months ago , ended up making trades , ripping members off here of enough components to build a new rig , until we called his local police and they paid him a visit .. subsequently everyone got their merchandise returned or compensated


----------



## StormX2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


LOL Off topic alert, but I just have to say it again: Storm, I LOVE that avatar! ROFL

Nothing like Rumble rumblin' to a ghetto Blaster.










haha Yah it is quote the statement is portrayal of Good and Evil Co-existing through the fine beats of Music. I really liek the Avy because of the Militaristic march he has while clutching his mortal enemy close to himself.

And yo, I remember that whole thing with SublimeO - I wanted to go Visit him myself and retrieve everyones stuff. what a turd.

_________
I do recognize the fact that the 939 board really cannot utilize todays Graphics cards, wich is why its so sad for me.. Never have i had so much fun overclocking a processor than I have had in the early stages of this rig. Everything about it just seems so well made, even though my ram timings are apparently incorrect, i get great performance in my games. But i know it is not enough for me and that is killing me slowly =(

the next machine to be built, will be for extreme clock's. i do not know what i will do -- maybe get with some of the crazy guys like CD and work on some water Cooling with a nice easy to manage Techstation-like case.

Temp's vary in my computer room so i wanted to build something that can kill my current rig, and run niiiice and cold. - even if my air unit goes ******ed and pumps hot air in till it hit 90 F

--- Another boring day at work typing on OCN lol


----------



## nshane

Here's my submission for entry. Its gotta say something for me in that I bought a S939 just a few months before they were discontinued and still am on the hunt for more.

Opty 170 @ 2200.02 (on mismatched ram no less)

Gonna see what else I can get it to do today...my roomate is apparently having a hotflash cause I'm freezing. That's still "stock" air cooled right?

----------------
Now playing on Pandora: Infectious Grooves - You Pick Me Up (Just To Throw Me Down)
via FoxyTunes


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nshane* 
Here's my submission for entry. Its gotta say something for me in that I bought a S939 just a few months before they were discontinued and still am on the hunt for more.

Opty 170 @ 2200.02 (on mismatched ram no less)

Gonna see what else I can get it to do today...my roomate is apparently having a hotflash cause I'm freezing. That's still "stock" air cooled right?

----------------
Now playing on Pandora: Infectious Grooves - You Pick Me Up (Just To Throw Me Down)
via FoxyTunes

We're going to have to find you a nice 2GB Kit of DDR500 for that rig







and Welcome to the club


----------



## StormX2

hopefully not before i do lol

btw get this

i donteven run my ram in Dual channel

they are in the outer 2 Ram slots lol


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nshane* 
That's still "stock" air cooled right?

Nope, that is overclocked. A "stock" 170 runs at 2000; you have it running as if it were a 175. If you used the cooler that came in the box with the CPU, that is the stock cooler.

I will add you to the roster with the others as soon as I have the opportunity.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Please welcome our newest member, nshane!









I also want to applaud you for your willingness to take up our Stock Cooler Overclocking Challenge.







I hope you are able to beat my bogey speed.









Apparently you and I are the only ones brave enough and man enough to meet this challenge head on, unlike some people who rely on pathetic excuses.


----------



## StormX2

hey forget you man..

i completely forgot about it and have not even seen my computer for a while..


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *StormX2*


hey forget you man..

i completely forgot about it and have not even seen my computer for a while..


My bad.









Honestly, though, that barb was *NOT* aimed at you at all.

My humble apologies if that little jab got some unintentional collateral damage.









Of course, Storm, you still have a shot at beating my entry.







I believe the judges extended the deadline. And I have no more intentions of winding my kit up even more.

It's time to do some proper OCing and testing with that board.


----------



## Blitz6804

*Cough cough* Boonie! *cough cough* Iandroo! *cough cough* Nate! *cough cough.*

Wow... I got something stuck in my throat.


----------



## nshane

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Nope, that is overclocked...


What I meant was stock air cooling...augmented by the extreme coldness of the house.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


We're going to have to find you a nice 2GB Kit of DDR500 for that rig







and Welcome to the club










Yeah, about that. I'm working on it, but being unemployed is kinda putting the hurt on paying for anything that doesn't keep me alive. Some would argue that our computers are a necessary evil, but I digress.

Would I be better off dropping my PC2100 stick and just running a 512 of PC2700 for this contest?

Movin' on up: Opty 170 @ 2299.99


----------



## nategr8ns

"iunoe" is short for "I don't know," at least for some people








wait, blitz whats that about nate? I've been internetless (and computerless for that matter) for the past week







.
I missed 160 posts or so since I last checked in, and don't have the patients to read them all


----------



## StormX2

no tmany of us 939'rs with stock HS


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


*Cough cough* Boonie! *cough cough* Iandroo! *cough cough* Nate! *cough cough.*

Wow... I got something stuck in my throat.










WOW bLITZ , YOU SHOULD REALLY HAVE THAT LOOKED AT









Now that the deadlines been extended ill be entering mine also , had some issues here that had to be worked thru as i explained earlier so it wasnt possible for me to make the deadline..However The "DINOSAUR" will rise again







{now what the hell did do with that stock cooler?}


----------



## Blitz6804

As long as you keep the timings loose nshane, you should be okay. I would think the dual-channel to be more important than the higher FSB.

The Roster has been updated off-site. I decided to also reorganize processors. Those of you who have multiples are now sorted by raw speed rather than add date. Who other than me thinks Joe has to add more CPUs? Should not he have more than anyone else being the 939-nut he is? I mean, he started this pit of satanic debauchery no?

As to you nate, why go to Alaska when you can stay at home and overclock? *Sheepish grin.*

Lastly, Storm, I never could use my stock cooler. I bought my San Diego as a PIB, my Toledo as an OEM. The cooler of the former would be insufficient on the latter. I just mailed the Zalman I used to use on my Toledo (prior to my Thermalright) to XyroTR1; maybe he will try a stock cooler before mounting it since he has to remount anyway? Joe sent me a stock Opteron cooler, but I have to say honestly that I have not played much with it.


----------



## StormX2

This thing does just fine apparently

though I do not think i can get accurate temp's of both cores.


----------



## boonie2

Nice job on the offsite site list Blitz


----------



## StormX2

ah by the way Blitz
You forgot to add my 3700 KABQE rig =)
had it up to 2.9 on a cold night on a Neo4-f


----------



## boonie2

Dam 'sexy' machine you got there storm ........... Pssssssst {500s would make it totally "erotic"}


----------



## pioneerisloud

I urge you guys to check out my thread. Very difficult decision I've got to make here. Its not 939 related, but you'd be helping to make up my mind







.

Link here.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Add more CPUs to the roster? Me?

Why?

I've only got one (well, just counting the one machine of mine that I have online presently, as the contest/testing/OCing rig is presently awaiting a reformat, and a long-planned for server is still in pieces) that is fully armed and operational at the moment. I'm not counting my dad's machine (even if it is an OCed S939 rig, too







).

Besides, a whole lot of you are running at speeds faster than mine anyway.


----------



## StormX2

bah
85 bucks would be better off spent on a new GPU for me.
I do not have the cash for a new build - not to mention there is no real nice AMD upgrade choice atm.

Unless you feel like being super nice and lettin those Corsair XMS sticks go for a total loss than it just will never happen.

Mostly becuase I cannot justify buying Ram when DDR2 for 85 bucks i can get 2x2 1000mhz stuff. Its painfull to see this, and to know that my board will never truly fly.

its like having a hoverboard, but no propulsion..


----------



## Blitz6804

I have 2 GB of Corsair XMS 2-3-3-6 that I have seen Pioneer run at DDR 560. Not the same DIMMs, but same model and only a few weeks newer IIRC. They are available on the cheap if Pioneer doesn't want them.

As for the roster, I did not have any sort of validation on the KABQE. Happen to have a CPU-Z screenshot or link anywhere?

Joe: You used to have 4 rigs. Now I see you only have 3 listed...

I say you should claim your Dad's rig as your own. You did build it and still maintain it after all. (Pioneer still claims Froggy's rig.)


----------



## StormX2

good question, id have to seriously hunt for it.

i know i ran it 2.7 just like this opty daily


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hehe, Blitz, I used to have as many as five listed on there.









In truth, I shouldn't even claim the one that I built for my family's use at the family homestead. One day I'll strike it from the record.









Pretty soon I've got to return to my habit of sharing my fan info. I've got a few more of those to share, actually. Plus I'll likely be doing a bit of an ongoing show-and-tell of my OCing adventures with the DFI LANParty UT CFX3200-DR.

(Hopefully I won't have any pictures of me tearing my hair out from playing with this beautiful, temperamental beast of a motherboard...)


----------



## StormX2

I totally accept Ram that goes beyond 450mhz since Mine is limited to 430-450 mhz with the timing's i listed the other day

maybe if i ever get a chance I will fatten the timing's =)


----------



## Futuredrifter

Joe, when you do start using the CFX3200-DR I've found this guide to be helpful when ocing.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Futuredrifter* 
Joe, when you do start using the CFX3200-DR I've found this guide to be helpful when ocing.

Many thanks, Futuredrifter.









I'm sure I will find this most useful.


----------



## Futuredrifter

Heh no problem, anything to help a fellow 939er. Hmm, maybe I should finally join this club







. I also have a second 939 rig (that you can see in my system info in my profile) but I lack screenshots of it.


----------



## Blitz6804

Welcome aboard Futuredrifter; you will be added to the off-site in about 5 minutes.


----------



## elito

im sorry, what is the the offsite? and can someone link me???


----------



## Blitz6804

As said in Post 1, Post 6537, and I think two other places:

The Off-site roster.

I lied Futuredrifter. 3 minutes; not 5.


----------



## StormX2

god so bored!!! an hour left

give me some names of Business's to call....


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Welcome to our merry horde, Futuredrifter!









I look forward to swapping notes and stories about the CFX3200-DR.


----------



## Futuredrifter

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Welcome to our merry horde, Futuredrifter!









I look forward to swapping notes and stories about the CFX3200-DR.









I don't have much, due to maxing out the stable 24/7 clock with my cpu =/. I wish I would have bought a 165 when they were all the rage







.


----------



## thlnk3r

Welcome nshane and Futuredrifter to the club


----------



## elito

god this is off topic..but uh..SO I SOLD MY OLD 939 X2 TO THIS GUY ON EBAY AND YET I'VE ASKED HIM TO LEAVE ME FEEDBACK NICELY(I'VE ALREADY ELFT HIM HIS) AND THIS GUY JUST TOTALLY IGNORES MY EMAILS/REQUESTS.. thanks for listening, atleasti its 939 related?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nshane* 
What I meant was stock air cooling...augmented by the extreme coldness of the house.

Yeah, about that. I'm working on it, but being unemployed is kinda putting the hurt on paying for anything that doesn't keep me alive. Some would argue that our computers are a necessary evil, but I digress.

Would I be better off dropping my PC2100 stick and just running a 512 of PC2700 for this contest?

Movin' on up: Opty 170 @ 2299.99

actually yes, I would use one or the other. The two different sticks of RAM will only cause errors and issues.


----------



## StormX2

so who got that ddr 500 kit on the cheapskater for me =)~

I can offer litle cash + if you need any form of technology that is current, i will get it for you at low margin lol

(shameless plug)


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Iceman0803* 
I'm confused about the bold part of the above quote.

Anyway regrading the trade that's a tough one. The TT (Tuniq Tower) is an excellent cooler and the odds that he would trade straight across are slim if he knows his stuff. I would say your best bet is to offer a trade and some cash. How mush cash depends on what you get with the cooler (i.e. does it include all the mounting hardware, none, or some? Is the fan still in working condition? Etc.).

Just to give you an idea of what they're worth I paid $40 shipped for mine and it was only 3 months old. That included all of the hardware and it was packed in the original box.

im guessing its a straight up trade. 9700 for Tuniq. he says hes reliable, and has good scores on heatware (wth is that??) and ebay. he says it has all the mounting hardware and packing.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
Sounds like a sucker move too me







never ship first in trades , unless you dont care about getting beat .... better to be safe than sorry







... case in point - "sublimO" from this forum afew months ago , ended up making trades , ripping members off here of enough components to build a new rig , until we called his local police and they paid him a visit .. subsequently everyone got their merchandise returned or compensated

oh so thats what happened? oh man. lol. i didnt know @[email protected] (im slow...)

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
*Cough cough* Boonie! *cough cough* Iandroo! *cough cough* Nate! *cough cough.*

Wow... I got something stuck in my throat.

open your mouth blitz and say ahhh *sticks a Popsicle stick in and shines flashlight*.. hmm your throat is inflamed *feels is neck* ... heres some anti-biotics *gives him medicine* go sleep now!

*edit*

i want ddr 500 tooo T_T if not another set of ddr400 so i can have 4gb


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


actually yes, I would use one or the other. The two different sticks of RAM will only cause errors and issues.


Eh; I think running the RAM at JEDEC 3-3-3-8-2T should not be a problem. Do not expect to go much above DDR266 though.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nshane*


What I meant was stock air cooling...augmented by the extreme coldness of the house.


As for your ambient question: there is nothing wrong with low ambients. For most of the year, I run the lowest ambients of the club. I see absolutely nothing wrong running your rig in a low ambient condition; run what you brung and all that.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Just for the record, I want to declare that, amongst everybody in this Club, I think I consistently have the highest ambient temperatures. When I get home from work, my room is a toasty 32 degrees C during the summers. thlnk3r even sometimes fears for my health (because he's seen me in person and knows that it's tough to live in a sauna during the summers).

You don't see me crying about high ambient temps too much in the context of the contest, do you?


----------



## StormX2

i already win


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Just for the record, I want to declare that, amongst everybody in this Club, I think I consistently have the highest ambient temperatures. When I get home from work, my room is a toasty 32 degrees C during the summers. thlnk3r even sometimes fears for my health (because he's seen me in person and knows that it's tough to live in a sauna during the summers).

You don't see me crying about high ambient temps too much in the context of the contest, do you?










wait... im the one who lives in a desert >.>"

Quote:



Originally Posted by *StormX2*


i already win


no you dont :swearing:


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


wait... im the one who lives in a desert >.>"


Unless I am mistaken, you have central air conditioning in your domicile. Joe does not. Besides, in Las Vegas, it is a dry heat. In Los Angeles, it is a smoggy heat.

When it comes to the winter, I am the first to admit that I do not have the coldest outdoor temps; I have seen occasionally colder by Nate and a few of the Canadians. What I do have is the penchant not to turn the heat on. Occasionally, I open the windows and/or door. Sub-10Âº C ambients for the win?

I am not saving any money by not using the natural gas in the winter though. Any gains there are immediately lost to the central air in the summer.


----------



## GuardianOdin

In the winter I run a air duct to my case from outside. Case temp is cool 16c and the CPU normally runs 40'sC on load give or take depending on the temp out side.


----------



## iandroo888

yah i have central air but considering the design of the house and how the thermostat is set and number of electronics radiating heat in a small area, it sux. lol. i cant even oc in the summer. i dropped my oc like 140 mhz to get load temps in 50s..


----------



## Blitz6804

Question for you: why? There is nothing wrong with load temps in the 50s. Only twice have I ever broken 60Âº C; S&M at my present 2801 MHz, and SuperPi at 3109 MHz. Thermal spec for your CPU is 65Âº C; why not get to the point where S&M tops at 63-65Âº C?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


yah i have central air but considering the design of the house and how the thermostat is set and number of electronics radiating heat in a small area, it sux. lol. i cant even oc in the summer. i dropped my oc like 140 mhz to get load temps in 50s..


boo bloody hoo

You're either just singing it or you're bringing it, partner!

I've set a bogey clock speed for everyone to shoot at. I'm not trying for more because, frankly, in my mind I've won because I did everything by the original deadline. I said I was entering, and I lived up to my word.

I won't cry if someone beats it. There's no question I had a ton of problems and issues getting my contest entry running well enough to get validated, but I let none of that stop me.

Anyone who whines about this and that excuse, well... pathetic is the word that comes to mind.


----------



## Blitz6804

Well Joe, I have two reasons why I could not enter the contest. Perhaps neither are very effective:

1) I chose to be a judge instead
2) My San Diego would not post above 2600 MHz; was very unstable at anything but 2211 MHz, at least, on the quick bench test I did


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Bah. From this point forwards I care not about other people's justifications and reasons for why they do and say what they do.

To be perfectly honest, it's not about winning or losing. It's never been about that. Rather, it's about the sport of it all. Meeting and beating a challenge on its own terms, and not comparing my results to yours. The only opponent you ought to care about overcoming is your own limit.

To not rise to that challenge is the definition of cowardice.

Don't mind me. I'm just really ornery.


----------



## Blitz6804

So I see...

If I am bored tomorrow, I might try a pro-bono entry with my Toledo like Pioneer was planning on doing with his Denmark. I just gotta get the motherboard out of the case to do so... *whimpers.* I guess that will make me finally fix the seating on the SI-128 when I put it back. Anyone know how to stop motherboard flexing? I am assuming that my core delta is due to that.*

The question of course is, do I run like I usually do, put the case on the patio outside (supposed to be about 30Âº C tomorrow) or really turn up the cheat factor and drop the CAC to 15Âº C?

*(Though; if that were the problem running the rig on its side should fix no?)


----------



## Anqt31

I got a TRUE! Only $20.... and 2x1GB DDR2 800 (4-4-4-12) Corsair XMS


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Anqt, will you be using your Ultra 120 Extreme on your AM2 rig or on your S939 machine? (I do see that you have a lapped Ultra 120 Extreme already mounted on your S939 machine, per your sig rig...)


----------



## Blitz6804

As far as I can remember, he did not used to have a Thermalright Ultra Extreme 120 installed on his 939. Since his Asus is out on RMA, he likely figured he will put the new cooler on when it returns. Why does no-one write out the name anyway? I hate the use of 'TRUE;' makes it sound like a 'TRUE' is the true CPU cooler.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
As far as I can remember, he did not used to have a Thermalright Ultra Extreme 120 installed on his 939. Since his Asus is out on RMA, he likely figured he will put the new cooler on when it returns. *Why does no-one write out the name anyway? I hate the use of 'TRUE;' makes it sound like a 'TRUE' is the true CPU cooler.*









I am with you there, boss.

The shortest I'll truncate it to is "Ultra 120 Extreme." I absolutely *refuse* to go along with the crowd and call it the "TRUE." For one thing, it's nonsensical when you know that the product's real name is the *T*hermal*r*ight *U*ltra *120* *E*xtreme. By all rights, the proper abbreviation ought to be the utterly ridiculous TRU120E. TRUE is just as ridiculous.

But meh, different strokes for different folks.


----------



## Blitz6804

Actually, you'd expect TU120E would be the proper truncation since "Thermalright" since the "r" is not capitalized. I suppose you COULD say TrU120E, but that is just nuts.

In all fairness, I would not have a problem with TRU120; but that is a different product. TRU120-E just looks silly.

Now; AMD939FTW I have absolutely no problem with. Coolest acronym ever.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Actually, you'd expect TU120E would be the proper truncation since "Thermalright" since the "r" is not capitalized. I suppose you COULD say TrU120E, but that is just nuts.

In all fairness, I would not have a problem with TRU120; but that is a different product. TRU120-E just looks silly.











Well played.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Now; AMD939FTW I have absolutely no problem with. Coolest acronym ever.











Genius!


----------



## Anqt31

Actually, I'm trying to talk the guy into selling me his E8400 and ASUS RAMPAGE for $45 bucks... I think he's gonna go for it!!!


----------



## Blitz6804

Sacrilege...


----------



## boonie2

BLASPHEMY


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Now now, guys...

Intelers are people too.

(Well, technically they are...)

We can respect them, no?

Liking them, though, is another matter altogether.


----------



## thlnk3r

Funny you guys mentioned that about the TRUE. I like to refer to my Thermalright V2 as the "TV2"


----------



## txtmstrjoe

REP- for thlnk3rb377 for referring to "that heatsink" as the "TRUE."

REP+ for thlnk3rb377 for referring to his GPU cooler as the TV2.

REP+ for any S939 Club Members who might want to join in on some Race07 fun this weekend.









(All REPs mentioned are virtual and not actual.)


----------



## Blitz6804

Since you can't rep him anyway...

Who is hosting this shenanigan? You want Pio to run it, or I to run it? I forgot which way had better pings. I am thinking we should add an element of handicap to it; every lap you finish in first place requires the drinking of a shot!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Since you can't rep him anyway...

Who is hosting this shenanigan? You want Pio to run it, or I to run it? I forgot which way had better pings. I am thinking we should add an element of handicap to it; every lap you finish in first place requires the drinking of a shot!


Anyone but me.

We'll pow-wow the details as go-time approaches.









But yeah, the more the merrier!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Since you can't rep him anyway...

Who is hosting this shenanigan? You want Pio to run it, or I to run it? I forgot which way had better pings. I am thinking we should add an element of handicap to it; every lap you finish in first place requires the drinking of a shot!


Blitz, just FYI I'm racing on a keyboard so my driving may be reckless


----------



## Blitz6804

Looks like you will not need a very big budget for the booze then methinks.

Joe: you gonna use the CFX this time out? And why can you not host? Your internet is bad?


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


im guessing its a straight up trade. 9700 for Tuniq. he says hes reliable, and has good scores on heatware (wth is that??) and ebay. he says it has all the mounting hardware and packing.


If he's trustworthy and willing to trade straight up then definitely go for it.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Looks like you will not need a very big budget for the booze then methinks.

Joe: you gonna use the CFX this time out? And why can you not host? Your internet is bad?


Don't underestimate my man thlnk3r. For a keyboard jockey, he's pretty good. I can't wait till he frees up enough fun fundage for a proper wheel + pedal setup.









I can see it now: thlnk3r and I on one team, pio and blitzer on the other, no more tag-teaming joe.

Of course, if we had more Club members getting it on, that's even better! Bigger grids, bigger races, more hilarity!

Negative on using the CFX machine, blitz. It is not sorted for any kind of activities like that. It's just gonna be me and Darth Ominous.









Why can I not host? Erm... I don't know. Maybe I just don't wanna? LOL I actually remember we had a bit of a trying time when I was supposed to host several months ago. I forget the reason why it was so difficult/impossible, but it's a moot point. As long as someone is able to do it, that's good for everybody, yes?


----------



## Blitz6804

You forgot to port-forward/port-trigger/DMZ as needed.

I am debating if I should do with Race07 what I do with CoD: host a dedicated on my laptop and then run a client on the desktop. The advantages to this is that supposedly the game would be less laggy since I use less CPU and we can add a password. The disadvantage of this is that we lose access to the weight penalty system and the game is less tweakable as a whole.

The last time I played Race07 was in early July. I played on my PS3 controller; much harder to do than the wheel, but astronomically easier than a keyboard. I personally even prefer using a mouse/KBB to straight keyboard. Mouse is wheel axis, then gas/brake/etc is on the keyboard. It is also possible to use the mouse for everything if you want buttons for gas/brake and forward/back button for gears.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

thlnk3r is looking into the possibility of dedicating a server for Race07 (sorry if I stole your thunder, thlnk3r), actually. Club member-exclusive, of course.







Whether or not the plan sees fruition, of course, is the big question.

Regardless, it'd be fun to go racing again.


----------



## GuardianOdin

I need to buy a copy of COD4.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well count me in for racing! Just remember, I work Saturday and Sunday, so I won't be on until after work







.

And I've already got a 24/7 up and running. Pw = skt939.

But like I said, count me in for racing! I've been WAITING AND WAITING to go against you guys again. And if thln3rb377 now has Race07...then there's no reason he should be kept away from racing against us







.


----------



## Blitz6804

Three things you never discuss in public:

Women
Politics
Religion

Enough said?

Who is up for some CoD tonight? Joe, you have to play with us. You own the game; you've no excuse. GuardianOdin; have you a spare $50 to get it?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I have the game, yes (CoD4), but not the proper seat time with it. I'm more up for racing, though.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Three things you never discuss in public:

Women
Politics
Religion

Enough said?

Who is up for some CoD tonight? Joe, you have to play with us. You own the game; you've no excuse. GuardianOdin; have you a spare $50 to get it?

nope not yet, maybe in two weeks


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I have the game, yes (CoD4), but not the proper seat time with it. I'm more up for racing, though.










To quote you:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe (all the time)*

Bok bok bok BOK!


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Three things you never discuss in public:

Women
Politics
Religion

Enough said?

Who is up for some CoD tonight? Joe, you have to play with us. You own the game; you've no excuse. GuardianOdin; have you a spare $50 to get it?


You dont get out much then do you?


----------



## Blitz6804

Joe can answer that question for you easily.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


You dont get out much then do you?










Holy schnikes, boon-man, you have NO IDEA.

I don't think he's seen the sun in ages.


----------



## boonie2

Psssssssssssssssst , theres alot out there hes missing then







but you didnt here it from me


----------



## Blitz6804

Let me put it to you this way Boonie: it is August, and I do not have a single tan line. None. Not a one. This means that not only am I inside with my PC all day, I also stay far enough away from the windows as to not get tanned through them.


----------



## boonie2

Is your real name "POWDER"














{im just joking}


----------



## Oscuro

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Let me put it to you this way Boonie: it is August, and I do not have a single tan line. None. Not a one. This means that not only am I inside with my PC all day, I also stay far enough away from the windows as to not get tanned through them.


Dude...the out doors is good for you


----------



## GuardianOdin

ah the great out doors.....sunshine...women.....changing the spark plus in my car.....fixing the exhaust on my car........ fixing the damn transmission on my car......gah! I hate the out doors! lol


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


ah the great out doors.....sunshine...women.....changing the spark plus in my car.....fixing the exhaust on my car........ fixing the damn transmission on my car......gah! I hate the out doors! lol


sunshine. agreed
women. agreed
rest... uh... >.>


----------



## StormX2

race07?
dont know that game


----------



## Blitz6804

Race 07. It is a Racing game (duh) that you can buy the online mode through Steam for $20, or exclusively at BestBuy, you can get the online AND offline mode for $10. (Two different executables. SP does not use steam, and so, does not need internet connection to play.)


----------



## thlnk3r

Guys leave the politic comments for the off topic thread


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Guys leave the politic comments for the off topic thread










see...I want that power sniff sniff.....allyourbasesarenowbelongtome hammer!


----------



## Oscuro

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


ah the great out doors.....sunshine...women.....changing the spark plus in my car.....fixing the exhaust on my car........ fixing the damn transmission on my car......gah! I hate the out doors! lol


Spark plugs aren't hard...unless you have a car where they are stupidly located...
The exhaust? Bah, it isn't time to fix, it's time to upgrade








Same with the trans!

Man, you have it easy, atleast you don't have to do rust repair!


----------



## StormX2

bleh no more money spending, im not into race games though i loved DIORT and NFS Underground 2


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Oscuro*


Spark plugs aren't hard...unless you have a car where they are stupidly located...
The exhaust? Bah, it isn't time to fix, it's time to upgrade








Same with the trans!

Man, you have it easy, atleast you don't have to do rust repair!


LOL...my car is made of rust!


----------



## Blitz6804

My car needs to go in for servicing soon too. The bumper as slowly been wiggling its way loose off the front. Uhm, I've been saying I'll get it fixed for over a month now. However, when I turned on the car yesterday, my A/C was MIA. I am making the appointment for servicing first thing tomorrow morning. We see where my priorities are...

For someone who has done it, how hard is it to lap a CPU versus lapping a heat sink? What are potential risks aside of bent pins?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
For someone who has done it, how hard is it to lap a CPU versus lapping a heat sink? What are potential risks aside of bent pins?

Not "hard," per se. Just takes a lot of time and effort and good technique if you are going to do it the right way.

G.O. and thlnk3r are established lapping gurus; G.O. has his superb lapping guide in his sig, I believe.

Believe it or not, I've lapped a CPU under running water from the faucet; chip is still alive and kicking.


----------



## iandroo888

depends on the cpu. if its an AMD processor, i usually get that padding taht comes with the cpu to hold against the pins. sometimes i can get away without bending any.. something a few on the side.. easy fix.

both have their difficulties imo. one having teh small size.. one having an awkward shape to hold.

*back to car topic*

arent spark plugs always on top? @[email protected] would suck if it was anywhere else...

woo. exhaust full upgrade.









transmission. ouch. haha

<3 having a new car.. under warranty..


----------



## Blitz6804

Considering that this is not a thread about cars Iandroo...

I know Joe's opinion is stilted, but what does everyone else think of delidding? Is it better to delid than to lap? I just need a box cutter and nerves of steel right? I have very trembly hands; will that be a problem?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I know Joe's opinion is stilted, but what does everyone else think of delidding? Is it better to delid than to lap?


"The Big Nasty" says it's always better to run naked and free. Easier than lapping, to be perfectly honest with you.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I just need a box cutter and nerves of steel right?


Steady hands and some knowledge of how deeply you ought to cut will help as well.

To ascertain optimum depth, just look at any picture of a naked chip.

Therefore, a veritable CPU pr0n parade:





































Hopefully these pictures will give you an idea of how deep to cut.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I have very trembly hands; will that be a problem?


Quite possibly.


----------



## Blitz6804

Did you put your CPU in the freezer at all like I've seen some guides say? Can you give me in mm how deep I should cut?


----------



## GuardianOdin

I do not regret going naked. I will however suggest you start at the corners with the razor first and slowly rock the razor back and forth. I didn't use the freezer method, but I have read of it.


----------



## Oscuro

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Considering that this is not a thread about cars Iandroo...


...This thread has bounced from topic to topic faster than Tigger on crack!

1: Odin....ouch. I just have a hole in the floor board on the driver's side, some rust on the rear quarter passenger side, on the trunk lid and some on the hood. Oh, and some in the trunk well where the spare tire used to go...but I'm thinking about just turning it into a spot for the fuel pump.

2: Iandroo, on V6/V8 engines, the plugs are often on the exhaust side of the head. As well as with SOHC 4 cyl engines. Also, on some cars, the engine bay is so tight, or the engine is mounted so far under the cowl...or, on quite a few mid-engine cars, the plugs can be almost entirely impossible to remove _without removing the engine_.
Eww...new bland cars with warranties









'72 Celica ftw!


----------



## iandroo888

for good measure for me when i de-lid processors, i mark on the blade with a permanent marker about 2-3mm. so i have an idea and a guide to how much as gone in.. 2-3mm is safe in regards to whats under the lid. should be enough to only cut the adhesive.

also! heres a tip to where to start. on one side, theres a slit thats already open.. not really open but does not have adhesive. taht should be a good place to start.

oscuro. lol. nice. i got an 07 honda accord v6 now. i had a 92 honda accord and a 98 integra with a k-22 swap and right side conversion. sure i dont know much but i just do what ppl taht do know tell me to do. haha.


----------



## Blitz6804

Okay... next question:

What are my chances of having a soldered IHS? The CPU is an AMD Athlon64 X2 4400+ LCBIE 0638DPMW. It was an OEM; not a PIB.


----------



## Futuredrifter

I've never really heard of a 939 having a soldered ihs. I think it's Intel and some am2 cpus that have soldered ihses.

OT: about car spark plugs, some boxer motor cars plugs are hard to change


----------



## txtmstrjoe

@ Sub-Zero:

I did not use the "freezer trick" at all. I just took a box cutter, ran it through the perimeter of the IHS probing for a soft spot in the adhesive, and firmly pushed through the softest spot. I then just ran the box cutter blade under through the rest of the IHS's junction point with the PCB until the IHS popped off.

The last time I did this it took no more than maybe six or seven minutes tops.

Also, none of the S939 CPUs had their IHSs soldered on as far as I know. I've stripped four, and none have had their tops soldered on.









(Futuredrifter is absolutely correct, though, about Intels and some AM2s having theirs soldered on.)









One of these days I'll strip another chip in my collection and do a bit of a pictorial.


----------



## pioneerisloud

*I've got a question about delidding:*
If I were to delid my Opty persay....how would I mount my Zalman cooler to it? It's just a clip-on (save your corny "tie" jokes for later







).

*Iandroo:*
Figured you have a honda







. You know Honda's are like tampons right? Seriously, Toyota is where its at. Celica's are great, as are Supra's. If you want something good on gas, the Corolla line is great for that. Here's the way I look at it:

Everyday driving:
AE86 Corolla
90-93 Celica (personal choice)

Drifting:
AE86 Corolla
Supra (pretty much any, but I prefer 94-98).

Drag:
Supra (94-98 for me please)
Celica with Supra motor (WOW THAT'S FAST)

Track racing:
90-93 Celica All Trac (person choice...but any fast AWD car would do)

Those are my PERSONAL choices in cars, and next year around tax returns time....screw a new computer, I'm buying a Celica (hopefully) (again).

*Oscuro:*
I've never personally seen a 72 Celica. That sounds about the time they were released. Chances are, the body style just wouldn't be my type, but I LOVE me a good Toyota. If you happen to be working on one....you should PM me with some pics







. I'd love to see what you're doing with it. If you're actually building one (I THINK I remember you saying something about that), then I might be able to use some pointers from ya. I'm also available on any IM client...I'm sure you can find me







.


----------



## Blitz6804

Guys; seriously. Lets keep car talk in a car-thread and/or chat programs.

I would guess you will need some sort of shimming apparatus with that Zalman pioneer. Joe suggested in my case, I can put pennies between the mounting bracket and the heat sink. You do not have that option. You could however shim between the back of the motherboard and the backplate. Perhaps electrician's-tape-wrapped washers?


----------



## GuardianOdin

@ pioneerisloud

I would look for a proper bolt on mounting bracket. The penny tricks works and such but I would worry about it "slipping" down becuase of the clips.


----------



## StormX2

I have never lapped a Cooler, CPU, or removed an IHS

i lied, i removed the IHS on a K6 once after my friend tried to do the same, and actually cracked the CPU in half! Luckily we had a box of them so I removed one and we went to see what we could do to OC it. As you all know Motherboards back then were bad so how far did we get? ---not very far---

But some of the bst temp's anyone has ever seen on the K6 line =)
thing's were like nuclear reactors.

---
yet another weekend goes by
and I still have not messed with my ram - I would love to get my memory to finally work in Dual Channel, maybe my timing's are too tight and keep that from happening.


----------



## Blitz6804

Dual-channel should not require any looser timings than single-channel in my experience.


----------



## StormX2

strange, I have never got my machine to boot in dual channel mode.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *StormX2*


strange, I have never got my machine to boot in dual channel mode.


Bad DIMM slots, perhaps?

Which channel did you try, Yellow or Orange?

Incidentally, I've read that the Orange channel allows for better OCing than Yellow for whatever reason for most of these DFI LANParty boards.

Good luck.


----------



## StormX2

ahh i forgot, i think the closest Slot is orange so i originally tried with that orange slots, and it just never worked of course at stock speeds.

I am goign toformat my drives for the release of Warhammer online and start fresh.

I had made the mistake of partitioning my drives, and well i think i did them stupidly so its always a little messed up.

but i have 2 x 250 gb Seagates that want to be used.
so at that point how would you guys suggest I do my harddrive.

partition 1 for OS + games? or just run i all as is and defrag it now and then?
as i have it now, OS partition of 6 gb, 2nd partition for games 50gb, and the rest to a third partition for programs and files.

though this seems to not be a happy way of doing things ^^
Was nto sure if maybe i should try to raid the 2 drive and use my current as a packup
and obviously not do any form of partitioning..

Anyway all advice happily taken on this matter, as I have never done raid before, and dont know What I need in order to do that with XP Pro 32 bit and my current Mobo.

also I have no floppy drive lol!


----------



## Blitz6804

If you have no floppy drive, RAID is not likely an option to you. Windows XP needs a RAID driver during install to be able to use a hardware RAID.

As to what *I* would do, I would use only one of the 250s in one 250 GB partition for everything. Periodically backup data to the other 250. If you CAN get RAID working, I would say go for RAID 1. If you need more storage, sell the two 250s and buy a 750 or something. I noticed no real difference in speed between RAID 0 and JBOD, but I did have the blaring disadvantage that if my RAID controller went Tango Uniform, I would be up the proverbial creek.


----------



## StormX2

lol yah the storage space isn't the issue, its all about performance =)

So i am Still unsure, do I care enough for a new GPU, that will obviously carry on with me o the next computer build someday, and in doing so, release the Huge bottleneck that my machine with Give it.

I have pretty much completely Dumped all my games in order to play Warhammer Online, wich i love, but I cant run it with AA at my res without loseing serious Framerate's in certain Areas (pvp with alot of characters on screen = death)

I mean honestly, would I even see a difference with my Current Processor speed if I changed up to a 4870 vs my GTS G80?

Cus its tempting, I can buy the Visiontek 4870 with Grid for 228.99 new


----------



## Blitz6804

Anyone I can get away from nVidia and into ATI, I say go for it.

In all fairness, dollar-for-dollar, you are likely better served with another GTS G80. Your goal is to put on AA at 1680x1050; two GTSes should be able to handle that.

(I CAN tell you that one 3850 cannot do that. A 4850 maybe; but not a 3850.)


----------



## StormX2

yah I have pretty much rules ou the idea of the 3850/70
It either a second G80-(provide dmy PSU can handle) or a 4870, no less lol

or mayeb I go crazy and get a 4870 x2 haha!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Your goal is to put on AA at 1680x1050; two GTSes should be able to handle that.

(I CAN tell you that one 3850 cannot do that. A 4850 maybe; but not a 3850.)

Blitz, what PC game are you referring to? I ran my 3850 with 2x AA at 1440x900 and got beautiful frames.

Good luck


----------



## Anqt31

blitz - I have Thinker's old 3850, and you are correct... it doesn't run AA @ 1680x1050, at least at any reasonable FPS. A 4850 however should be able to handle it with decet FPS


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


blitz - I have Thinker's old 3850, and you are correct... it doesn't run AA @ 1680x1050, at least at any reasonable FPS. A 4850 however should be able to handle it with decet FPS


Anqt, at what AA setting and in what game? The 38xx series cards are still good, it should be able to dish out something decent


----------



## Blitz6804

Sure, you can put on AAx2 at 1440x900; but at 1680x1050, you are no joy.

Never mind even thinking about asking about 1920x1200...

(At least with Rappelz, Mass Effect, and Call of Duty 4. Civilization IV and Sim City 4: Rush Hour are fine at 1920x1200, AAx4. Well, with Sim City; you need to hack an INI and shut off shadows. Other than that it is fine; flaw of the game. Case in point, 800x600, AAx0, shadows on: game un-playable. 1920x1200, AAx4, shadows off: game runs like butter.)


----------



## StormX2

lol well for the most part i get excellent frame rate with my set up at 4 x aa, however teh dips below 30 fps is not welcome.

I just bassically want to run something at Stock, so i dont have to worry about crazy cooling, but when I am playing Warhammer online, and Day of Defeat Source, i do not want frames under 30 fps, ever =)


----------



## Anqt31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Anqt, at what AA setting and in what game? The 38xx series cards are still good, it should be able to dish out something decent










AA x8 o x16


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Sure, you can put on AAx2 at 1440x900; but at 1680x1050, you are no joy.

Never mind even thinking about asking about 1920x1200...

(At least with Rappelz, Mass Effect, and Call of Duty 4. Civilization IV and Sim City 4: Rush Hour are fine at 1920x1200, AAx4. Well, with Sim City; you need to hack an INI and shut off shadows. Other than that it is fine; flaw of the game. Case in point, 800x600, AAx0, shadows on: game un-playable. 1920x1200, AAx4, shadows off: game runs like butter.)


Blitz, good point made. I never did try 1680x1050 but I couldn't imagine it being a huge difference from 1440x900 but I could be wrong









Good luck


----------



## StormX2

Those sim's games are so poorly made

my ex was insane with those games -.-


----------



## Blitz6804

But they are so fun...

That was the funny thing about SimCity 4: every time I upgraded my video card, performance decreased! SimXXXX was much better when it was just Maxis; EA Games goofs it up. SimCity Classic works natively on my computers to this day. As does SimCity 2000 and SimCity 3000. SimCity 4 (first EA title) requires that I turn this song into a prayer </BONO> and fiddle with all sorts of settings to make it work.

(It should be noted SC4 never did like Radeon cards. For best performance, use an nVidia. The best the game ever looked was on my 7800 GS; pity that it was the only game the card could play.)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
That was the funny thing about SimCity 4: every time I upgraded my video card, performance decreased! SimXXXX was much better when it was just Maxis; EA Games goofs it up. SimCity Classic works natively on my computers to this day. As does SimCity 2000 and SimCity 3000. SimCity 4 (first EA title) requires that I turn this song into a prayer </BONO> and fiddle with all sorts of settings to make it work.

Blitz, SC4 was developed by Maxis not by EA


----------



## StormX2

Ah i stopped playign Sim games after the original's

my favorite was Sim Earth and I think Sim Life?
and you can never forget SimAnt on snes =)_


----------



## Blitz6804

SimCity4 was EA/Maxis joint venture. SimCity 3000 was the last Maxis-exclusive title.

I had SimEarth / SimAnt on the PC.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
SimCity4 was EA/Maxis joint venture. SimCity 3000 was the last Maxis-exclusive title.

Blitz, Maxis is subsidiary of EA. The game was still developed by Maxis.

Can we get back on S939 topic guys?


----------



## StormX2

back to topic, send me some cheap 500mhz ram =)

So i can go buy a 4870 for 240 somethin shipped, format the machine, start fresh with a partially new rig, and seriously start tuning this rig =)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *StormX2* 
So i can go buy a 4870 for 240 somethin shipped, format the machine, start fresh with a partially new rig, and seriously start tuning this rig =)

Storm, I don't know if you'll notice a huge difference going from a 8800GTS to a 4870. In my opinion these cards are just too darn powerful for the systems themselves to keep up. It's always nice to say your packen 800 stream processors though









Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Storm, these are the kits I have. Newegg periodically flips them on sale, sometimes with a rebate. I picked mine up for $100 a kit, but I have seen them as cheap as $80/per.


----------



## Iceman0803

Anyone notice this thread is now 666 pages long......spooky.......ok carry on.


----------



## boonie2

When did the EGG start stocking DDR again?


----------



## Blitz6804

They never stopped. They phased out DDR600 though and scaled back across the board. You have choices of PC2100, PC2700, PC3200, and a single PC4000 model.


----------



## boonie2




----------



## purdueman

I will add the club's 2nd Clawhammer.

It is slightly overclocked.








On another note, anyone have any experience overclocking a Clawhammer? I would like to try and hit a higher OC just for fun, but I forgot what a safe voltage is for a 130nm CPU. I haven't tinkered with this computer in a while, because my mom and sister use it.


----------



## StormX2

Happy 666 pages 939'rs =)

And yes , i knwo the 4870 is monsterous in comparison, but i know that sooner or later I will build a new PC, and when i switch over the 4870 will be fully powered and I will be happy all over again =)

Yah i am FAR from paying 100 bucks for DDR memory lol

though I may consider Boonies for 50 bucks lol

i just cannot see more than 50 bucks for DDR 2 gig kit

-- I know Im anxious, Im bored, I want a new computer to build, i freakin need somethin to do!!!!!!
Eh guess I will just hang with my girlfriend


----------



## iandroo888

50? where?  wait. im sellin this rig. nvm. haha but i wouldnt mind throwing it in fx-60 rig.


----------



## Blitz6804

When you have it clocked where you want purdueman, all we need is a CPU-Z validation of some flavor. You're join date will be 08/25/2008.

Assuming you have a 3500+, AMD says that it is safe to 1.50 V for a revision CG. (See: CG_1 and CG_2.) You will note on the same page that your maximum safe temperature is 70Âº C. If you have a processor other than the 3500+, please let me know, and I will hook you up accordingly.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Storm, these are the kits I have. Newegg periodically flips them on sale, sometimes with a rebate. I picked mine up for $100 a kit, but I have seen them as cheap as $80/per.

That's probably my all-time favorite 2GB RAM set of all time.







My set was able to scale comfortably past DDR560, which is amazing for a 2GB set. The only reason why I'm not running 1:1 (280MHz HTT Clock : 280MHz RAM Clock) is because my board's stock BIOS doesn't have enough facility for adjustment to enable it to run at that high a RAM frequency without introducing 3D instability. Back when I was testing this overclock, I thought I had a kit that could run 1:1 with absolute stability; it even passed the all-important S&M stability test. But whenever I ran 3DMark06 or any games, the rig would crash. Subsequent research showed that the Infineon BE-5/BE-6 (or CE-5/CE-6) ICs in the Mushkin Redline XP4000s were 3D-unstable unless you could alter some rather arcane RAM settings. The A8N32-SLI Deluxe's BIOS didn't have those settings (though vwgti once linked me to a modified BIOS for the board that he's used successfully to run his set @ 1:1 past 280MHz on his HTT Clock), so I had to slap a divider on the RAM.

Storm, if ever you want to get Infineon CE-5/CE-6 RAM (the BE-5/BE-6s are no longer available), your DFI LANParty UT board will have the necessary BIOS settings that should enable you to run the RAM to its fullest potential.


----------



## Blitz6804

Any chance those settings are also on my Abit Joe?


----------



## GuardianOdin

I see new RAM in my future!....maybe. Have to buy Joe's Opty 170 first and get her nekked....woot!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Any chance those settings are also on my Abit Joe?

Negative.









Edit:

@ G.O. Do you happen to know what ICs are in your G.Skills?


----------



## purdueman

Alright I am having issues with this CPU and mobo. I can only get it to 2310mhz. The chipset fan is not working, and the machine hard locks on the splash screen on anything past 210fsb. I have tried lower the HT multi to 4, RAM freq to 333mhz, upping the vcore, using any fsb from 211 to 230, and other stuff. Maybe I am just too tired.

Well anyway I think I need a new chipset fan, if I want to clock this any higher. I remember back in this machines heyday it could hit 2.6ghz, but I also remember having a difficult time overclocking it. Well here it is my Clawhammer at 2310mhz.


----------



## Iceman0803

I don't know if you guys have seen this or not but it's a decent RAM list and the ic's they use. Click here


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *purdueman* 
Alright I am having issues with this CPU and mobo. I can only get it to 2310mhz. The chipset fan is not working, and the machine hard locks on the splash screen on anything past 210fsb. I have tried lower the HT multi to 4, RAM freq to 333mhz, upping the vcore, using any fsb from 211 to 230, and other stuff. Maybe I am just too tired.

Well anyway I think I need a new chipset fan, if I want to clock this any higher. I remember back in this machines heyday it could hit 2.6ghz, but I also remember having a difficult time overclocking it. Well here it is my Clawhammer at 2310mhz.

purdueman, my first suspect is a faulty/failing RAM DIMM. Accordingly, I would test your DIMMs as a pair and singly using MemTest86+. For a more comprehensive test, I would also test each and every DIMM slot on your board. This would account for the possibility of a bad/failing DIMM slot on the board.

By the way, welcome to the Socket 939 Appreciation Club!







I have added you to our still-growing roster.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *StormX2*


Happy 666 pages 939'rs =)

And yes , i knwo the 4870 is monsterous in comparison, but i know that sooner or later I will build a new PC, and when i switch over the 4870 will be fully powered and I will be happy all over again =)

Yah i am FAR from paying 100 bucks for DDR memory lol

though I may consider Boonies for 50 bucks lol

i just cannot see more than 50 bucks for DDR 2 gig kit

-- I know Im anxious, Im bored, I want a new computer to build, i freakin need somethin to do!!!!!!
Eh guess I will just hang with my girlfriend










Malicious rumors







.................









WELCOME PURDUEMAN


----------



## pez

OK, It's about time I joined this club







. I've had my rig for 3 years now and it's been running pretty good for the most part for those 3 years. It's made me very happy with amd, and I even got an overclock out of it. TBH, I've only got it stable at 2.41GHz, but I've been running my computer 24/7 lately on 2.55GHz and it hasn't had any problems (knock on wood). The one thing that I'm sure is holding me back is my RAM though since it's mixed DDR333 and DDR400, but the DDR400 is defaulted back to DDR333. And here's the SS:










One thing I've also noticed is that CPU-Z reads my vcore at ~1.52-1.54 even when I have it set all the way to 1.625 (max).


----------



## boonie2

Welcome Pez


----------



## StormX2

Quote:

Infineon CE-5/CE-6 RAM
Where can I get these? I will lovingly trample the settings with my Mobo

So long as i can find it cheap =)

Welcome to our 2 new members =)


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah Iceman; we know of that link. I have spent literally dozens of minutes trying to find the IMCs of my Corsair XMSs (now in Pio's hands) with no success.

On the other hand, I found my Redlines in about a minute, and they are Infineon CE-6. Now if only I had a DFI to play with... *pokes Joe.*

Welcome to Purdueman and Pez; I will have you two updated on the offsite roster soon.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Another welcome (from the head boob) to our newest additions







.


----------



## StormX2

hmm so can this PSU handle a second G80 640mb?

iw as thinking maybe i could just sell mine and get even a cheap used G92, GT or GTS
or maybe even a cherap pair of GT's

I am totally fixated on this BTW, and now I need to find those Infineon CE-5/CE-6 RAM


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *StormX2* 
hmm so can this PSU handle a second G80 640mb?

iw as thinking maybe i could just sell mine and get even a cheap used G92, GT or GTS
or maybe even a cherap pair of GT's

I am totally fixated on this BTW, and now I need to find those Infineon CE-5/CE-6 RAM

I don't see why your sig rig's PSU shouldn't handle SLI of G80's







. Although selling your current GPU and stepping up into a G92 wouldn't be a bad idea at all. You would definitely feel the performance increase over the G80.


----------



## StormX2

I have never sold anything, so I am Virgin to the Idea..

- I just obviously want to get more time outof my opty, because its so Sexy.

Those intel's just cant match it's sexiness


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Yeah Iceman; we know of that link. I have spent literally dozens of minutes trying to find the IMCs of my Corsair XMSs (now in Pio's hands) with no success.

On the other hand, I found my Redlines in about a minute, and they are Infineon CE-6. Now if only I had a DFI to play with... *pokes Joe.*

Welcome to Purdueman and Pez; I will have you two updated on the offsite roster soon.

Do you (or Pio) know what model they are? There are quite a few XMS modules on the list. If they're not there I can do some research and try to find them, if you guys want that is.


----------



## StormX2

How do i find out wich Ram i have?


----------



## Blitz6804

According to OCZ, your PSU should be able to handle SLI.

However, according to Neoseeker, it looks like your GPU would draw 20.5 Amps at full load; meaning it could NOT handle it.

Why the certification then? According to nVidia, the OCZ 700 or 850 W could power a pair of 8800s. The 600 W can run less than the 7x00 series. My guess is that IF you try to run this, you are going to be tight. It would not be a bad idea to use the adapters that likely came with your cards rather than the PCI-E cables directly. Then, you can bridge two Molex rails.

Iceman: CMX1024-3200C2PT XMS3202v8.1 08025016-0 (two modules of it)


----------



## StormX2

hmm i do not really udnerstand what you are saying to me lol

but here is my memory linked at Newegg

Corsair XMS TWINX2048-3200C2PT


----------



## Raziel

I'm running 4 sticks of that same ram, and have never had an issue, and I'm only running a 400w power supply. With your power supply, you should have no issues with running the SLI.


----------



## Blitz6804

Two things:

1) Raziel: you do NOT have the same RAM. 512 mb is not 1024 mb.

2) StormX2, you will notice a sticker on the side of your RAM. It will look like this:










The code in the upper right corner is what Iceman needs.

2.5) As to what I was saying, I was saying it does not look like your power supply can handle two 8800s. Two 7600 yes. Two 6800 yes. Two 7800 or better, no. The 700 W or 850 W model is needed for two of your card. Neither could run a pair of Ultras.


----------



## Blitz6804

(Sorry of the double, I somehow forgot to address purdue this morning.)

Quote:


Originally Posted by *purdueman* 
Alright I am having issues with this CPU and mobo. I can only get it to 2310mhz. The chipset fan is not working, and the machine hard locks on the splash screen on anything past 210fsb. I have tried lower the HT multi to 4, RAM freq to 333mhz, upping the vcore, using any fsb from 211 to 230, and other stuff. Maybe I am just too tired.

Well anyway I think I need a new chipset fan, if I want to clock this any higher. I remember back in this machines heyday it could hit 2.6ghz, but I also remember having a difficult time overclocking it. Well here it is my Clawhammer at 2310mhz.

Silly question; but have you checked your northbridge temperature? Everest Ultimate or Hardware Monitor should show it. If not, see if you can safely touch the northbridge heat sink. If it is painfully warm, that could be what is holding you back. As a stopgap until you can replace its cooler, consider putting a spare case fan into the picture pointed at it.


----------



## StormX2

dam, what about 2 8800 GT G90's SLI at stock settings?


----------



## RAMDAC

It depends primary on the amperage of your 12V rails and not just the wattage.


----------



## StormX2

yah i know, I was fooled into the low price tag of this PSU at the time

next PSU i grab will be better


----------



## StormX2

double post'n here

but someone is telling me that they are running 2 x 8800 GTS g92 in SLI on my PSU (though it is the StealthX not the GamesX

"The PSU is quad rail, which is the only reason it can handle it. If it was single rail, then it would want lots more amperage because the rest of the system would be drawing power too.. (fans, lights, mobo, cpu, hdd, cd drive, etc). Since the cards are running on their own rail, the psu handles it like a champ







"

quad rail or not, it says each rail is only 18A!
do 2 rails go to 1 card??


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, according to nVidia, no, it cannot run 2 8800s regardless of G80 or G92.

However, I see that your powersupply does permit some over-current.

Supposedly, 12V3 and 12v4 can be overdrawn to 20.5 A. (See page 5.) That is the amperage needed for an 8800 GTS G80. An 8800 GT G92 needs about 19 A if my math and research are correct. I do not at all recommend running your power supply with a higher draw than it was designed to; you will certainly be shortening its life.

EDIT: I just looked up the StealthX. The stats are identical to the GameX; it just lacks the pretty blue LED. So if they are in fact telling the truth, your power supply would be sufficient.


----------



## StormX2

what a gamble lol, 220 for 2 x GTS G92 SLI shipped

I just keep comming to the point if i should bother with this, or if the money is better spent on 1 4870 sicne my price for item at cost + shipping is in a difference of 20 dollars


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, in the regard of power usage, a 4870 would be the better option. A single 4870 needs but 6.25 A according to ATI. Further, ATI Certifies your power supply to be able to power one. While there is no mention of the 4870 in the crossfire department, it supposedly can run a pair of 3850s. The 3850, like the 3870, 4850, and 4870, also requires 6.25 A as per ATI. So THEORETICALLY, you could keep this power supply if ever you crossfire a second 4870 when you build your AM3.


----------



## StormX2

see now were talkin!

I thinkt his may be my overall favorite Idea

considering I will not exactly pull that much performance from SLI at my res, might as well just get a beefier single card liek the 4870
and will DEFFINITELY think of Xfire later on because I most likely Will build an AM3 after it has time to burn into the market =)


----------



## Blitz6804

On the other hand; it is not certified for a 4870x2; maybe that means it cannot crossfire; who knows.

Oops, I made an oversight. A 48*5*0 uses as much power as the 38x0. A 4870 uses two 6.25 A connectors. Still, ATI calls for 4 PCI-E connectors and 600 W total. Maybe you can cut the mustard; only way to know is to test it! *Nods at Joe.*


----------



## StormX2

hmmm so strange

so i guess that ius the deal? 2 rails on the PSU goes to 2 card?


----------



## Blitz6804

Right. If you get the 4870, two PCI-E rails get connected to it. If you get a 38x0 or a 4850, one PCI-E rail gets connected to it. I am sure the 4870 will also come with at least one adapter that turns molex connectors into a PCI-E. If it comes with two, this enables you to use a second card even if you do not have enough PCI-E rails.


----------



## StormX2

o this hting has 4 of them doesnt it?


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Iceman: CMX1024-3200C2PT XMS3202v8.1 08025016-0 (two modules of it)


I found a DDRI ic list on the Corsair support forum but I wasn't able to find the exact module(s) on the list. I've submitted a reply to the thread for info regarding the modules to be added.

For those of you whose RAM may be already listed the thread can be found here.


----------



## StormX2

ok so i looke din, and i could actually see the Sticker ont he memory, for soem reason, i didnt feel liek powering down and taken the stick out ^^

and it is the Corsair Twin X platirum series 2 gig Kit 2 x 1 GB sticks

and from what i Gatherd they are just 2 , 1 gig solo chips packaged together.

THis is what is says from new egg
TWINX2048-3200C2PT

And on the Sticker it listed as either

XMS3202 V1.6 or v 1.5

no matter the choice, it doesnt seem to be very special =-)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *StormX2*


Where can I get these? I will lovingly trample the settings with my Mobo

So long as i can find it cheap =)

Welcome to our 2 new members =)


Storm, the Mushkin Redline XP4000s in my sig (the same ones Blitz referred to) might be the most readily available 2GB RAM kit with the Infineon CE-6 ICs.

I'm at work right now, but when I have time I'll try and see what alternatives may still exist for Infineon CE-6 RAM.


----------



## Blitz6804

If 1.6:

CMX1024-3200C2PT_____XMS3202 v1.6 0618085-1 = INFINEON, 64M X 8 Die Rev B

1.5 does not seem to have a C2PT, 1 gig stick listed.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *StormX2*


but someone is telling me that they are running 2 x 8800 GTS g92 in SLI on my PSU (though it is the StealthX not the GamesX

"The PSU is quad rail, which is the only reason it can handle it. If it was single rail, then it would want lots more amperage because the rest of the system would be drawing power too.. (fans, lights, mobo, cpu, hdd, cd drive, etc). Since the cards are running on their own rail, the psu handles it like a champ







"

quad rail or not, it says each rail is only 18A!
do 2 rails go to 1 card??


Storm, here is an excellent article by Jonnyguru about multiple rails vs single rails: http://www.jonnyguru.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3990.

Good luck


----------



## StormX2

CMX1024-3200C2PT_____XMS3202 v1.6 0618085-1 = INFINEON, 64M X 8 Die Rev B

thats the one

i just puleld the ram out and saw the CMX part


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Thlnk3r's link*

Is it true that some PSU's that claim to be multiple +12V rails don't have the +12V rail split at all?

Yes, this is true. But it's the exception and not the norm. It's typically seen in *Seasonic built* units (like the Corsair HX and *Antec True Power Trio*.)


So it is possible I actually have a single 12V rail. Would explain why the max draw on the 12V rails is 52 A and not the mathematically derived 57 A. Nice find Thinks. *Virtual rep*

EDIT: Nope; According to UL, I do actually have triple rails.


----------



## pez

Ok, since we're on the topic of psu's being able to run certain gpus: Would I be able to run a single 8800gt on my current psu? It's an apevia/aspire, and I came to the conclusion along w/ another member that it's a revision of the old see through's because it has the 6-pin pci-e connector. So now, I'm deciding on my new card being an ati 3850, an ati 3870 or an 8800GT. What do you guys think I should do?


----------



## Blitz6804

Assuming this is your power supply, I would say that you can run a 38x0. It is not an ATI-Certified PSU, but the amperage is sufficient. Would you be able to grab the UL number for me? Newegg's picture has the UL removed. (Look for the backwards RU.)

You cannot run an 8800 of any variety. Your 12 V rails are 16 and 18 A, neither is enough for an 8800. (8800 GT G92 needs 19; 8800 GTS G80 needs 20.5.)


----------



## GuardianOdin

This what I run for my rig if it helps Ultra X-Finity™ 600 Watt PSU - Titanium

*EDIT:* I using a Enermax 460 Watt PSU, but I gave it to a friend because his died. It ran my 8800GT just fine. I actually kind of miss it.


----------



## Blitz6804

The Ultra X-Finity supposedly has an 18 A and a 20 A rail. The Enermax is a tasty 33 A rail, which would run most cards sans issue.


----------



## pez

I'm sorry, it's the see through it's got 34A on the 12v rail .http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817148006


----------



## Blitz6804

Wow... your power supply's UL is confusing. (Do a find for "AS500W".) It says it is a 12.4 V line with 41 A, for a total of 372.69. No matter how you slice it, that math just fails!


----------



## pez

Um, I'm very confused, heh. What exactly does this mean....?


----------



## Blitz6804

Short story: yes, you *{CAN}* upgrade your GPU without also upgrading your PSU. Your CPU is relatively low powered, you have only 2 GB of RAM, a single HDD, a single optical drive, no sound card. 34 A total will give the GPU the power it needs. Maybe save some money and buy StormX2's GTS once he replaces it?

For a longer story, call Apevia and ask what is going on; they may even tell you if you can run it. The UL really confused the snot out of me.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
This what I run for my rig if it helps Ultra X-Finityâ„¢ 600 Watt PSU - Titanium

Guardian, that X-Finity is 21.66 amps total. That is a little bit low...


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Short story: yes, you cannot upgrade your GPU without also upgrading your PSU. Your CPU is relatively low powered, you have only 2 GB of RAM, a single HDD, a single optical drive, no sound card. 34 A total will give the GPU the power it needs. Maybe save some money and buy StormX2's GTS once he replaces it?

For a longer story, call Apevia and ask what is going on; they may even tell you if you can run it. The UL really confused the snot out of me.

Ugh, really? That's really annoying if I have to upgrade my PSU just to buy an 8800gt. It even has it's own pci-e power connector...does anyone know anything about this? If I have to buy a new PSU for this, I'm going to just upgrade or something...this is very frustrating....maybe that spec sheet wasn't right?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Guardian, that X-Finity is 21.66 amps total. That is a little bit low...

I know, been thinking about upgrading. But for now it runs my rig pretty good. I think a lot of my continuous shut downs may be from this PSU. This I gathered from when I thought my Opty was going bad. I believe it actually the PSU not supplying enough power to the correct areas.


----------



## Blitz6804

Sorry, typo. You CAN upgrade. If you read the whole post though, you would have realized it was a typo.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Ugh, really? That's really annoying if I have to upgrade my PSU just to buy an 8800gt. It even has it's own pci-e power connector...does anyone know anything about this? If I have to buy a new PSU for this, I'm going to just upgrade or something...this is very frustrating....maybe that spec sheet wasn't right?

Pez, wattage and amperage wise you are fine but I wouldn't run your machine on that Apevia too long. I have a feeling that brand isn't reliable. Heavy consistent load may result in failure. I would definitely switch to something that is built around quality. If your just browsing the internet, checking email ect then I don't see the Apevia being a problem.

Good luck


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
I know, been thinking about upgrading. But for now it runs my rig pretty good. I think a lot of my continuous shut downs may be from this PSU. This I gathered from when I thought my Opty was going bad. I believe it actually the PSU not supplying enough power to the correct areas.

Guardian, ahhh then that would explain for the random shutdowns then










Sorry for the double post guys


----------



## GuardianOdin

*woot!*


----------



## Blitz6804

I take it you are stable now? You swapped PSUs?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I take it you are stable now? You swapped PSUs?


me?,nope same PSU


----------



## Blitz6804

Then why the excitement? *Ish confused.* (For the record; your 8800 GT kicked the snot out of my 3850. (-_-'))


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Then why the excitement? *Ish confused.* (For the record; your 8800 GT kicked the snot out of my 3850. (-_-'))


lol, I'm just happy I hit over 11k. I have been trying and trying to do again since the last time but I couldn't. I had forgot to change the vid card setting.


----------



## Blitz6804

Ah; gotcha. I wish I could run 3DMark at 3 GHz. Last time I tried, the CPU overheated.

I need to fix this mount. Or delid. I am still not sure if I am going to. (I guess I could just stick my fingers in my ears and crank the air up, but something is wrong: Joe should not load 10Âº lower than I do when his ambients are 10Âº higher!)


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Ah; gotcha. I wish I could run 3DMark at 3 GHz. Last time I tried, the CPU overheated.

I need to fix this mount. Or delid. I am still not sure if I am going to. (I guess I could just stick my fingers in my ears and crank the air up, but something is wrong: Joe should not load 10Âº lower than I do when his ambients are 10Âº higher!)


I had the same issue for the longest time, but then I realize it was my RAM settings. Believe it or not...my RAM timings are tighter now then when I was having issues, but this time they are set correctly. That makes all the difference.


----------



## Blitz6804

Wait... what? Tightening your RAM reduced your CPU's heat? (O_O)


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Wait... what? Tightening your RAM reduced your CPU's heat? (O_O)


no no, setting the timings correctly told me that the issue was not my CPU but rather the RAM the whole time. I lowered the CPU temps by lapping and going naked on the Opty, plus high case air flow.


----------



## identitycrisis

gratz guardian, i got right around there, but could never keep my opty at 3.0ghz, might have been around 2800 or 2900mhz... quite the feat for a 939 rig! gotta love those optys!


----------



## Blitz6804

OooOOOooo.

What are your timings now? What were they when you passed as S&M Stable?

Subtimings are nice to share too if you didn't live them at auto.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *identitycrisis*


gratz guardian, i got right around there, but could never keep my opty at 3.0ghz, might have been around 2800 or 2900mhz... quite the feat for a 939 rig! gotta love those optys!


Thanks IC, I thinking with some upgrades I may be able to sqeeze anouther 100-200 ponits out of it.

10,000 RPM Hard Drive
Those Muskin DDR500 that clock a bit higher
The Opteron 170 from Joe when I can buy it
and a better/stable PSU

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


OooOOOooo.

What are your timings now? What were they when you passed as S&M Stable?

Subtimings are nice to share too if you didn't live them at auto.


I'm off of work tomorrow. I'll take some digital pic's of the BIOS screen for you.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Pez, wattage and amperage wise you are fine but I wouldn't run your machine on that Apevia too long. I have a feeling that brand isn't reliable. Heavy consistent load may result in failure. I would definitely switch to something that is built around quality. If your just browsing the internet, checking email ect then I don't see the Apevia being a problem.

Good luck









Yeah to be honest, I had this power supply before and one morning I woke up and turned it on and POP! Then I bought another (forgive me for doing that obviously), but I realized it was different from the other one. One thing I noticed is it had an extra connector (which I've now learned is a PCI-E power connector) and even the color (of the casing) was different. It's been running for over a year strong now (knocks on wood) and I do plan to eventually get a better supply for my future rig, so I can save some money come that time. It'll be nice too, to have an 8800gt when I upgrade. That right there can save me about 300 bucks off of my next build, but I'm really determined to use this computer to the death.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Sorry, typo. You CAN upgrade. If you read the whole post though, you would have realized it was a typo.

Oh







. At first I thought you had mistyped it, but when I saw the CPU underpower thing, so I think that threw me off. Glad to know this.


----------



## thlnk3r

Guardian, great job on the 3DMark06 score









I'm assuming the 10K drive you mentioned will be a Western Digital? After you go 10K you'll never go back!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Guardian, great job on the 3DMark06 score









I'm assuming the 10K drive you mentioned will be a Western Digital? After you go 10K you'll never go back!


Yes Sir!


----------



## nategr8ns

jeez G.O., 11k with only 3ghz and an 8800gt...
I'm jealous, I can barely get 10k with the same


----------



## Blitz6804

There has to be some sort of voodoo magic in his RAM. We must wait until we see what his timings are.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Guardian, great job on the 3DMark06 score









I'm assuming the 10K drive you mentioned will be a Western Digital? After you go 10K you'll never go back!


Lordy, thlnktank, I wish I could have a 10K RPM HDD in my box.

I'm not averse to accepting one as a gift from the Club, however.


----------



## Blitz6804

I am happy with my 7200 RPM. Quieter; cooler; larger cache. I can make do.


----------



## GuardianOdin

lol. No voodoo magic.

*1.* Stable 3Ghz on the Opty 165

*2.* High HT (FSB) seems to help

*3.* Corrected the core/shaders/RAM on the Video Card (tried to balance them out)

*4.* Corrected RAM (DDR500) timings-which in turn gave me a flat 28.000 second run in SuperPi

*5.* High air flow in case affecting the CPU heatsink and Videocard heatsink. 3 Intake 120mm Fans-1 Exhaust 120mm Fan

*6.* Pc is cleaned and every heatsink reseated once a month.

*7.* Make sure ALL drivers have been installed properly. No exceptions. If you think it may not have installed properly. Redo it

*8.* *I can't stress his enough*. Make sure you have Defragmented your HDD and cleaned your system very well before running benchmarks.

*9.* Make sure any and all apps running in the back ground (that do not need to) have been shut down.

*10.* Tweak tweak and tweak some more until you find that sweet spot for your particular setup. RAM is the major player in the tweaking game.

Just a few things I do to keep my Rig running as smooth as possible.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Yes Sir!

Guardian, good pick. I'd rather wait for the price to drop for the new velociraptor. Most of the reviews out there state that the new drive out performs the older raptors. Temperature wise it's no difference then a regular 7,200RPM drive. Just make sure you have adequate cooling for your drives. My 74GB Raptor idle's at 37C. Room ambient is 26C. If you've never used a 10K drive then you'll be blown away by the performance. Loading fairly large maps for certain PC Games is a breeze.

Good luck


----------



## GuardianOdin

yeah, the price is a bit much right now. Knowing Western Digital it won't come down very soon either.

From what I read about it, it is much quieter than the previous 10,000rpm HDD and does not run as hot.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
yeah, the price is a bit much right now. Knowing Western Digital it won't come down very soon either.

From what I read about it, it is much quieter than the previous 10,000rpm HDD and does not run as hot.

Guardian, the previous Raptors ran very cool. I never heard about them having specific heat issues but I could be wrong. I do know they've been through a few revs in the past. During the fall and winter the drive literally idles at 28-32C in my machine. In terms of noise, it's really only noticeable when the drive is working. Spin noise is inaudible.

Good luck


----------



## bumsoil

fx 60 @ 3ghz


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bumsoil* 
fx 60 @ 3ghz

Bumsoil, are you wanting to join the club? If that is case please include a CPU-Z validation screenshot or the link to the validation page. We'll add you to the roster as soon as that is posted









Thanks


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Guardian, the previous Raptors ran very cool. I never heard about them having specific heat issues but I could be wrong. I do know they've been through a few revs in the past. During the fall and winter the drive literally idles at 28-32C in my machine. In terms of noise, it's really only noticeable when the drive is working. Spin noise is inaudible.

Good luck









I'll say the articles I have read were a bit dated. Heck if the new revisions run just as well, I might as well get one of those. I can use my current as a storage drive.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Guardian, the previous Raptors ran very cool. I never heard about them having specific heat issues but I could be wrong. I do know they've been through a few revs in the past. During the fall and winter the drive literally idles at 28-32C in my machine. In terms of noise, it's really only noticeable when the drive is working. Spin noise is inaudible.

Good luck









Boo on thlnk3r!

Not only does he have a Golden Opteron and a great motherboard, but he also has the Golden Raptor HDD too!










Everytime you talk about Raptors, thlnk3r, it's like the seduction of the Dark Side. Keep this up, and I'll sell my soul for a Raptor...


----------



## Blitz6804

Great making me look like an idiot thlnks...

My Hitachi is the loudest thing in my case, and except when S&Ming, the hottest at a toasty 47Âº C. (Then again; I am defragging now at GO's reminder. I kinda forgot. (-_-'))


----------



## GuardianOdin

LOL I went to newegg and parted together an (Upgrade) list for my Rig......$1000!! Might as well just build a new AM2+ Rig for that price. Then again our 939 Rigs can do a great job of holding their own against these newer Rigs.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
I'll say the articles I have read were a bit dated. Heck if the new revisions run just as well, I might as well get one of those. I can use my current as a storage drive.

Guardian, well the velociraptor uses SATA2 as oppose to the raptor that uses SATA1. Granted it probably doesn't utilize all the bandwidth on both standards but that there is a difference by design.

Good luck


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Guardian, well the velociraptor uses SATA2 as oppose to the raptor that uses SATA1. Granted it probably doesn't utilize all the bandwidth on both standards but that there is a difference by design.

Good luck


would our 939 rigs benefit from the SATA2?


----------



## Blitz6804

I do notice a difference. I took my Hitachi (SATA-II) that was running on my Gigabyte at 187.5 MBps (estimated). I then swung it to my Abit. It is now running the native 375 MBps (estimated) it was designed to. Despite being a really bad driver situation, Windows and games load faster.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


LOL I went to newegg and parted together an (Upgrade) list for my Rig......$1000!! Might as well just build a new AM2+ Rig for that price. Then again our 939 Rigs can do a great job of holding their own against these newer Rigs.


please don't. For $1000 you can build such a good 775 system, and Am2 isn't much better than 939 rigs (although quads are nice)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


would our 939 rigs benefit from the SATA2?


Guardian, I'm sure in some way the drive would but how often would the drive saturate the channel/controller? It really depends on how demanding the application is and how much I/O is drawn. I usually run HDTach to see if the drive(s) are performing correctly.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Great making me look like an idiot thlnks...

My Hitachi is the loudest thing in my case, and except when S&Ming, the hottest at a toasty 47Âº C. (Then again; I am defragging now at GO's reminder. I kinda forgot. (-_-'))



Blitz, no worries man. I have a WD 250GB drive (forgot the model number) that runs regularly at 50-55C. Don't feel to bad







. I believe there was one rev of the 640GB WD drives that ran fairly warm as well.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I've never really conducted an actual back-to-back test myself of SATAI vs. SATAII on the same board, but according to most reviews on the subject that I have read, the more noticeable gains in HDD performance have to do with either rotational speed (SCSI HDDs, with their 15K RPMs, are the fastest non-SSDs around) or platter density. Interface type differences, and therefore peak maximum throughput, between SATAI and SATAII are negligible in most cases (amounting to very small percentages).


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Guardian, I'm sure in some way the drive would but how often would the drive saturate the channel/controller? It really depends on how demanding the application is and how much I/O is drawn. I usually run HDTach to see if the drive(s) are performing correctly.


This is consistent with my research too.







Like most things in computing, it's quite contextual.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, no worries man. I have a WD 250GB drive (forgot the model number) that runs regularly at 50-55C. Don't feel to bad







. I believe there was one rev of the 640GB WD drives that ran fairly warm as well.


I have one of those hot tamale Western Digitals. WD2500KS is the model number.







Stories are conflicting regarding those high temps; one camp says those are actual temperatures, while another (including Western Digital) says those readings are from a poorly-calibrated sensor.

The funny thing is, thlnk3r and I have talked about this family of drives before. His example actually does get very hot to the touch, while mine remains cool...









In other words, who knows what's going on with these WD2500KSs?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Guardian, I'm sure in some way the drive would but how often would the drive saturate the channel/controller? It really depends on how demanding the application is and how much I/O is drawn. I usually run HDTach to see if the drive(s) are performing correctly.


Is that a free program? never mind I just found it....lol

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


please don't. For $1000 you can build such a good 775 system, and Am2 isn't much better than 939 rigs (although quads are nice)


I'll never touch an Intel system..never ever never









I should mention that the $1000 includes a new Case,PSU and such that could also be used in a new build.


----------



## Blitz6804

Haha... nice!

Drive Q is 49% fragmented. After defragging, drive Q is still 49% fragmented. Seems that since there are only two files on the HDD, and the fragged one cannot be defragged, that is what I am stuck with.

All the other drives had a 5-10% frag rate.


----------



## Blitz6804

News: I am in process of backing up my desktop. Vista 64x is going on today.

The disadvantage: I will not be able to use my desktop to play CoD for a few weeks. I left the disc on Long Island, and so, will not be able to install it. (-_-)

On that same note, anyone know how to allow me to open my 1P save files on my laptop? I copy them into the folder, but it still shows only the "new game" button.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Bah! I just took pic's for ya!


----------



## Blitz6804

Of your RAM? I still want them.

My CPU is only 2.8 GHz because I was too lazy to fiddle any more. I am going to be installing Vista, and then trying to get a few more MHz out of her.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


The disadvantage: I will not be able to use my desktop to play CoD for a few weeks. I left the disc on Long Island, and so, will not be able to install it.


Blitz, download COD4 off of steam and call your family in Long Island for the CD key









Good luck with the Vista 64 install.


----------



## GuardianOdin

I hope these are clear enough


----------



## Blitz6804

Sure are GuardianOdin; thanks. Wow; your latencies are loose!

I have my key with me Thlnk3r. I only brought the disc down with me; left the box, manual, key, et alii, here in Amherst. I just would rather not need to sit around downloading all day long.

Theoretically, I can have my disc back in about 3.5 weeks. I guess I can make do on my laptop for that long; I only have about 5 days of freedom left anyway; and then I go back to... that place.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I have my key with me Thlnk3r. I only brought the disc down with me; left the box, manual, key, et alii, here in Amherst. I just would rather not need to sit around downloading all day long.


Blitz, good point made. The game apparently is 7GB. If you have broadband should only take a few hours. I typically download at 700KB/s through Steam. I'm pretty impressed by their connection speed


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Sure are GuardianOdin; thanks. Wow; your latencies are loose!


I'm up any suggestions. These timings right now give me a SuperPi run of 28 seconds flat. I still have to run S&M test


----------



## Blitz6804

I've no suggestions for you. My CPU at 3.1 GHz with similar timings was 29 seconds.


----------



## boonie2

Just a heads up for my fellow 939ers , due to financial and economic misfortunes we are forced into selling my other folding setup to include DFI NF4 SLI DR Motherboard / Opteron 170 LCB9E 0614 / 2-1GB G-SKILL DDR500 these are listed in the "For Sale" as of today if anyone is interested , sucks to have to do this , but bills have to be paid


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*









Just a heads up for my fellow 939ers , due to financial and economic misfortunes we are forced into selling my other folding setup to include DFI NF4 SLI DR Motherboard / Opteron 170 LCB9E 0614 / 2-1GB G-SKILL DDR500 these are listed in the "For Sale" as of today if anyone is interested , sucks to have to do this , but bills have to be paid










I really wish I could help Boonie. I'll ask around near me and see if anyone is looking to build a PC.


----------



## Techtrancer_Wien

does anybody wants to test this opteron 170


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


I really wish I could help Boonie. I'll ask around near me and see if anyone is looking to build a PC.


Ditto here, boonie.

I wish I had more cash to play with; some of those RAM kits you've got look really really tasty, too.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Techtrancer_Wien*


does anybody wants to test this opteron 170




Hehe, I've got a couple of those, Techtrancer. What kind of testing do you need done with it?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *StormX2* 
Where can I get these (DDR based on Infineon CE-5/CE-6)?

Here is a listing of RAM based on Infineon ICs:

*Corsair*

XMS-3202C2PRO-TWINX2048 Rev1.1 (BE-5)
XMS-3202C2-TWINX2048 Rev1.2 (BE-5)
XMS-3200C2-TWINX2048 Rev1.4 (BE-5)
XMS-PC3500LLPRO-TWINX2048 (2.0-3-2-6-1T) (BE-5 or CE-6; most likely just CE-6s now, if you can find it)
*G.Skill*

PC3200 (2.0-3-2-5-1T) F1-3200PHU2-2GBZX (CE-5 or CE-6)
*Mushkin*

XP4000 Redline (2GB) (BE-5/BE-6 or CE-5/CE-6) (older sets are BE; newer are CE)
*OCZ*

EB DDR PC4000 Platinum Edition (3.0-3-2-8-1T @ 2.8V) (BE-5 or CE-5)
*Patriot/PDP*

Patriot LLK PC3200 (2.0-3-2-5-1T) (BE-5/BE-6 or CE-6) (older sets are BE; newer are CE)
Some of these may already be discontinued, unfortunately. I do know that the Patriot LLK PC3200, the G.Skill F1-3200PHU2-2GBZX and the Mushkin Redline XP4000 are still available on NewEgg. The Corsairs are almost impossible to find, and the OCZs are also most likely gone forever from the retail channel.

Of these, I've used the Mushkins and the Patriots; I've got the G.Skills, as well, but have not yet put them through their paces. The Mushkins, though, are worth the extra money, as they are hands-down the best 2GB RAM I've ever played with.

Hope this helps!


----------



## iandroo888

ill test







a8n32-sli, a8r32-mvp, dfi lanparty ultra-d mobo's









do i get to keep it xD

btw guardianodin - howd u get that high? i cant even break 10k with 8800GTS. secrets?


----------



## Blitz6804

I used to have XMS-3202C2PRO-TWINX2048 Rev1.1. Those were the RAMs that died on me. Sent them to Corsair for a check. Lost 2 DIMMs of BE-5, got 4 DIMMs of CE-6. Not a bad trade...

I am having some massive headaches trying to get Vista 64x to like me. A problem has arose with the SATA install that was not there on the IDE install. Namely, there is some sort of glitch with some chipsets, SATA, and more than 2 GB of RAM. In other words, until I can get this figured out, I can run 64x with 2 GB of RAM, but if I installed 32x, I could run 4 GB of RAM. (Yes, it will only see 3 GB, but you get the point.)


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


ill test







a8n32-sli, a8r32-mvp, dfi lanparty ultra-d mobo's









do i get to keep it xD

btw guardianodin - howd u get that high? i cant even break 10k with 8800GTS. secrets?


your not breaking 10k?!!!! even with default clocks I get over 9k. This last run I upped the shaders and core (separately) and kept my RAM down around 955Mhz ( 1.9Ghz) I noticed I can get a higher shader overclock if the core was not so high...hope that helps

I have been having some issues with 3D Mark06 though lately. At these *EXACT* same settings I can score between 10,800 and 11,500 now try and figure one that out







That is a major jump without making any changes. I think it has do with how it read my system. I could be wrong though


----------



## Techtrancer_Wien

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Ditto here, boonie.

I wish I had more cash to play with; some of those RAM kits you've got look really really tasty, too.

Hehe, I've got a couple of those, Techtrancer. What kind of testing do you need done with it?



when i bye the CPU my mainboard was running. but the shipping needs much time. when i got the opteron 170 my OC mainboard was demaged and so i canÂ´t test this CPU for overclock. i only test it on the mainboard of a friend if it runs and the opteron is perfect condition.

the opteron 170 is boxed and with with guaranty


----------



## Blitz6804

Unfortunately Techtrancer_Wien; the shipping would kill almost all of us.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


ill test







a8n32-sli, a8r32-mvp, dfi lanparty ultra-d mobo's









*do i get to keep it* xD

btw guardianodin - howd u get that high? i cant even break 10k with 8800GTS. secrets?


Now why is it not surprising to hear this from you?









Joke or not, it's definitely not funny.









How about doing something that wasn't so self-centered for a change? :swearing:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Techtrancer_Wien*


when i bye the CPU my mainboard was running. but the shipping needs much time. when i got the opteron 170 my OC mainboard was demaged and so i canÂ´t test this CPU for overclock. i only test it on the mainboard of a friend if it runs and the opteron is perfect condition.

the opteron 170 is boxed and with with guaranty


Do you mean a test to see just how high that chip can clock?


----------



## Techtrancer_Wien

i want to sell the 170 opteron, , because i dont have no mainboard and no DDR1

the shipping is not expensive!

if i send only the CPU it wil costs 3 euro


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Unfortunately Techtrancer_Wien; the shipping would kill almost all of us.


it would be less than $10


----------



## Blitz6804

With the exception of SerenityKill3r and Poser; I think we are all in the US. Shipping across the ocean is seriously only $4.50 US?


----------



## Techtrancer_Wien

yes. worldwide shipping for e letter


----------



## Blitz6804

Okay; quick update.

I am going to TENTATIVELY say that I fixed the problem. Apparently, there is something with Vista 64-bit not liking some RAID controllers and 4 GB of memory. The problem does not exist on 32-bit. Nor does the problem exist on IDE. This is why neither of my previous Vista excursions ran into the problem.

That said, I decided to try something crazy. Instead of using the ULi SATA/RAID controller, I changed it to the default windows IDE/SATA controller. I've had a few restarts without BSOD now. Instead of 7/8 boots BSODing, now I have 3 boots in a row. Not ready to call it completely yet, but it is better.

Now if only I can get 3DMark to run. I keep getting an OpenAl32.dll cannot be found.


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I used to have XMS-3202C2PRO-TWINX2048 Rev1.1. Those were the RAMs that died on me. Sent them to Corsair for a check. Lost 2 DIMMs of BE-5, got 4 DIMMs of CE-6. Not a bad trade...

I am having some massive headaches trying to get Vista 64x to like me. A problem has arose with the SATA install that was not there on the IDE install. Namely, there is some sort of glitch with some chipsets, SATA, and more than 2 GB of RAM. In other words, until I can get this figured out, I can run 64x with 2 GB of RAM, but if I installed 32x, I could run 4 GB of RAM. (Yes, it will only see 3 GB, but you get the point.)


Is your install disc RTM or SP1? If RTM try installing Vista with 2GB of RAM then once the install is complete add the rest of the RAM. Also, install SP1 (again, if your disc is RTM) before installing *any* drivers or software and make an image of the drive. That way if anything catastrophic happens you have an image of a clean Vista SP1 install (plus you dont have to wait through the SP1 install).


----------



## Blitz6804

I have RTM. SP1 is not an option to me; likely never will be due to driver incompatibility.

I did get the 4 GB problem TENTATIVELY fixed, see above. I also fixed 3DMark; I just copied the DLL from my laptop into 3DMark's folder. What I was seeing online that despite it being called "OpenAL32.dll," it was installing the 64-bit version of the DLL.


----------



## iandroo888

haha i asked cuz i wanted to at least keep a opty rig in my disposal even if i sold my sig rig. xD

wish i had the money to buy the opty 170. would like to play with it. maybe break 3ghz haha.

someone on craiglist emailed me earlier and asked if he can come and check out my rig.. think i should let him? sound fishy at all?


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, that depends. If he happened to just find you on Craig's list; that would be fine, albeit creepy.

On the other hand, *if you have your Rig listed here and on Craig's list, you are violating OCN rules*.


----------



## iandroo888

 i didnt know there were rules about that.. uh oh.. uhh uhhh *takes off craiglist*


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


 i didnt know there were rules about that


Iandroo, see the For Sale rules here: http://www.overclock.net/sale/290822...raphrased.html.

Quote:



No cross posting on eBay or advertising eBay auctions.


I'm assuming your ad on craigs list is also consider a "eBay" type sell. If you need clarification, send Taeric a PM and I am sure he can assist you.

Good luck


----------



## iandroo888

pm'ed =P thx for tellin me


----------



## StormX2

man , pages sure accumulate fast in this thread =)

Ok so i foudn out that My ram is infact the same IC's as those red line

so then if I Losen my timing's up - theoretically I could potentially hit 500 mhz and possibly higher eh?

Just playin aroudn yesterday, i bumped voltage to chipset from 1.5 to 1.6, hit to 1.4 for CPU and dropped ram nice and low to about 360 mhz 
and
the memory was in dual channel, wich was a first on this build.

now the memory timing's are still the same as what I had posted a while back.
I could not even Find those posts that everyone was saying wich settings to do. =(
and my Girlfriends Camera was dead, and we didnt have an Uplink cable anyway so I couldnt take pictures and upload =(

anyway, fter doing all this i was able to play some Counterstrike Source at 306 fsb
unfortunately temp's were looking a tas bit higher than I would like an the game evenually crashedwith a error message with something about memory.

so i dumped voltage setting to stock, dropped down to 294 fsb with ram at 411.6 mhz same timing's and have been fine -.-


----------



## Blitz6804

The Mushkin Extreme Redlines have the following SPD (with my current speeds in brackets after them):

tCL = 3 clocks [2 clocks]
tRCD = 3 clocks [3 clocks]
tRP = 2 clocks [2 clocks]
tRAS = 8 clocks [6 clocks]
tRC = 11 clocks [8 clocks]
tRFC = 17 clocks [12 clocks]
CPC = 1T [2T]
vDIMM = 2.8 V [2.8 V]
vFSB = 250 MHz [200 MHz]

You have a big advantage in your favor that I lack: You are blessed with a DFI. Similar to Poser's epic RAM, you have the ability to tweak tREF (page 115), DRAM Drive Strength (page 116), and Max Async Latency (page 116). From what I read on the 'net, DRAM Drive Strength makes all the difference when overclocking two DIMMs very high and/or four DIMMs at all. Poser claims to have luck with the Async. I know with my Gigabyte, anything other than 7 will necessitate a CMOS dump; I have not tried yet on my Abit.

Good luck!


----------



## StormX2

yahaha all that blew my mind ^^

my motherboard is better than I am haha!


----------



## Blitz6804

I am now typing to you from Vista 64-bit. I am still having some quirks I am working through, but will keep you all posted.


----------



## StormX2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I am now typing to you from Vista 64-bit. I am still having some quirks I am working through, but will keep you all posted.


omg nice you beast! 4 gigs of the Red line!!

I wonder if you will be able to hold your overclock with all 4 dimms =?

once you get some stability on a nice OC, i want to see benchies of it all with the single GPU


----------



## iandroo888

ran thru taeric. its fine as long as its not ebay.

anyone familiar with the a8n32-sli? i wanna try pushin this to see how far it can go b4 i really sell it. at least break 3ghz >.o


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
ran thru taeric. its fine as long as its not ebay.

anyone familiar with the a8n32-sli? i wanna try pushin this to see how far it can go b4 i really sell it. at least break 3ghz >.o

Iandroo, that is good to hear.

I use to run the Asus A8N-SLI but I believe the BIOS was a bit different compared to the A8N32-SLI. I think Joe use to run that board. Shoot him a message and he might be able to assist you.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *StormX2* 
omg nice you beast! 4 gigs of the Red line!!

I wonder if you will be able to hold your overclock with all 4 dimms =?

once you get some stability on a nice OC, i want to see benchies of it all with the single GPU

I have had my OC the whole time with 4 DIMMs. I just went from XP 32-bit to Vista 64-bit is all. 3DMark06 took a 330 mark bath. (I have also done a 3.1 GHz suicide with 4 GB. Proof is in the sig.)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
I use to run the Asus A8N-SLI but I believe the BIOS was a bit different compared to the A8N32-SLI. I think Joe use to run that board. Shoot him a message and he might be able to assist you.

Good luck









thlnk3r, you are correct. The BIOS for the A8N-SLI is different compared to the A8N32-SLI Deluxe. Very different boards compared to each other, similar names notwithstanding.









Actually, I still *do* run the A8N32-SLI Deluxe.


----------



## rhoxed

Hey there
3800 x2 Toledo CCBWE
MSI K8N Neo 4
2x 1gb Corsair XMS ddr-400
2600 xt

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc?id=210107


----------



## Blitz6804

Welcome aboard rhoxed. Joe will add you to the local roster sometime later; I will add you to the offsite roster within the next half hour.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


thlnk3r, you are correct. The BIOS for the A8N-SLI is different compared to the A8N32-SLI Deluxe. Very different boards compared to each other, similar names notwithstanding.









Actually, I still *do* run the A8N32-SLI Deluxe.










help meh oh see txtmstrjoe


----------



## thlnk3r

Welcome to the club rhoxed


----------



## Blitz6804

I wish you luck in OCing Droo.

In other news: this is *MY* post. (Check post number and my user number)


----------



## GuardianOdin

Welcome rhoxed! Glad to have ya


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


help meh oh see txtmstrjoe










What kind of assistance can I give you?

rhoxed: Welcome to the family!







You are now part of our happy tribe.


----------



## Anqt31

welcome rhoxed

@ other members... anyone need a 4200+ ? i have 1 too many...


----------



## Blitz6804

Nige might be interested if you can give him a steal on it. He has a A64 3200+.


----------



## iandroo888

what steppin is that 4200+? i have a 4200+ too! j/w what speeds u got from it....

txtmstrjoe.. mainly timing help.. iunoe anything about memory timings.. and maybe some otehr help that may effect my oc'ing in other parts of bios


----------



## Blitz6804

Memory timings are the easy part. Keeping your sanity while tweaking and testing; THAT is the challenge.

I do not know if Joe will be much help to you. First, your CPUs have different multipliers. Further, they have different steppings. What works for him may not work for you and vice-versa. Thirdly and lastly, your RAM is dissimilar.


----------



## StormX2

but, what works for all, will proboblywork for me

MUAHAHA!


----------



## Anqt31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
what steppin is that 4200+? i have a 4200+ too! j/w what speeds u got from it....

It's just another processor I picked up from someone here locally...

not sure how far it will go... I got it to 2400 Mhz (240 x 10) @ 1.3875V and 2625 Mhz (250 x 10.5) @ 1.4250V but haven't tried to push it farther... right now my mobo is on RMA, so I can't tell you the stepping... here's the model number and the numbers on the processor

AMD Athlon 4200+ Manchestor

ADA4200AA5BV
LDBFE 0622FPMV
Z944497F60608


----------



## Blitz6804

The stepping is LBDFE then. Accordingly, here is AMD's spec sheet for that CPU.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


It's just another processor I picked up from someone here locally...

not sure how far it will go... I got it to 2400 Mhz (240 x 10) @ 1.3875V and 2625 Mhz (250 x 10.5) @ 1.4250V but haven't tried to push it farther... right now my mobo is on RMA, so I can't tell you the stepping... here's the model number and the numbers on the processor

AMD Athlon 4200+ Manchestor

ADA4200AA5BV
LDBFE 0622FPMV
Z944497F60608


Blitz, thanks for posting that info.

Anqt, check out amdgeeks.net and search in the overclocking data. I searched for Athlon X2 > 4200+ > Revision E4 and came up with a few OC results. There was quite a few that were around 2.7 and 2.8Ghz. One of them was 3.6Ghz but that looked it was setup on extreme cooling









Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

A small note on steppings: Sometimes stepping info can *suggest* *possible* overclocking potential for these chips. If sufficient data were collected, you can at least find out the *average potential* of chips in a particular stepping (because they indicate which version/revision of the integrated memory controller has been incorporated into the CPU). Therefore, there will be chips that can be below average, and there will be chips that can be above average as well.

Also, not all steppings have data accumulated on them. LDBFE is one such stepping where you can't find a big enough sampling. It's not called a "stepping lottery" without reason.

Luck is still the overclocker's best friend.









iandroo, we may not run the same exact RAM ICs, but that doesn't mean it's impossible for me (or anyone else) to help. I may not be able to give you specific settings, but I might still be able to guide you. Accordingly, please post screenshots of your BIOS, CPU-Z shots of your A8N32-SLI Deluxe setup (of all the tabs, if possible), and the model number of your RAM. We might be able to piece together enough experience from our members to enable you to get more MHz from your setup.


----------



## Blitz6804

And PLEASE; do not forget the RAM subtimings. So many times I see people burned because they wanted to just leave Auto. (tRC and tRFC being the most influential to most people. DRAM Drive Strength is a big one for people with 4 GB and who are gifted enough to have motherboards that have it.)


----------



## The Master Chief

][/URL]

Put me up on the list!


----------



## Blitz6804

You and your San Diego are now in our hallowed halls. Joe will add you to the on-site roster likely tomorrow. (He just left home for the day.)


----------



## iandroo888

will do the screenshots later today or tomorrow.

as for the 4200+, i think mine was LDBFE as well. got to 2.64GHz or so.. dont remember voltage.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Nice to see the site finally up and working again! I've been lost without it.


----------



## nategr8ns

I've been asleep most of the time


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Master Chief*


][/URL]

Put me up on the list!










Welcome to the club! Joe will have you on the list shortly.


----------



## boonie2

Welcome To The Club


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Nice to see the site finally up and working again! I've been lost without it.


What do you think I've been going through? Last week of summer vacation; no friends; and no forum to play with while I sit around all day. Utter boredom! That, and now you jinxed it. *Expects OCN to cut out while typing...*


----------



## boonie2

OCN is all that you have to do ???????


----------



## Blitz6804

More or less. I was supposed to have a party last night; but nobody came. I threw myself a pity party instead. I do not recall how many drinks I had (I lost count) but I was still feeling the ethanol in my system when I woke up.


----------



## nategr8ns




----------



## Blitz6804

Doing some math with the vodka bottle, it looks like I had between a quarter and a half liter of the stuff. This was after a six pack. For the record: given the option between a $14 bottle and a $16 bottle with a $2 rebate, do the latter. I was lazy when I bought it and did not want to do the rebate. You can really tell the difference of $2! (I've drank the other one before when it was sans-rebate.)

I was supposedly going to play Race07 with Thlnk3r and Joe last night, but like my party, they were a no show. Who is in tonight? I'll be hosting most likely.


----------



## iandroo888

lol daaam blitz. i had my.. eh.. 3rd bday dinner last nite with friends. i didnt drink much. only a 22oz blueberry vanilla wheat draft beer, bottle of newcastle, shot of vodka, coke n rum, vodka tonic, MGD draft.... think thats it.. all in all, spent less then $30 last nite including dinner @ olive garden! lol @[email protected]

i still feel the blueberry vanilla wheat one when i woke up and burped lol..

oh yah was supposed to post bios screenshots... must do that..


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, not screen shots (BIOSes tend not to carry that feature) but pictures of your BIOS with a camera.

(I did not know AMD sold CPUs in bottles!)


----------



## iandroo888

you knew what i meant -.-"


----------



## nategr8ns

newcastle is a core too?
didn't know that


----------



## Blitz6804

130 nm, single-core, skt 754/939. Precursor of the Venice; half the cache of a Clawhammer.


----------



## iandroo888

nah newcastle is the new 15nm , 16-core, skt 1337.


----------



## Blitz6804

Okay; here goes:

1) You have the Corsair XMS 400s which stock at 2-3-3-6. I can tell from experience, these little buggers are voltage hungry. They stock at 2.75 to need to do those timings. 2.8 V is likely not enough to get them to be stable much above DDR 420 with those timings. Either consider loosening the timings a bit (3-3-3-8 would be a logical first step) or upping the voltage a fuzz.

2) Your PCI-E speed should likely be 100; but that is not a big deal.

3) From our IM conversation, I know that your tRC SPDs at 14. This is just too high. Set it at 9, and tRFC to 11, 12, or 13 (depending on your fancy), for increased latency. Alternatively, if you want more clocks out of this RAM, which may not be possible if you have an older revision, loosen them further. It is a crossroad to make: should you drop to a lower speed and go tighter, or loosen them up and hope to open them up?

4) I notice a voltage droop on your 12 V line. Given ASUS's penchant to overvolt, this may be indicative of a PSU's age or lack of output. The 12 V rails are 16 and 18 A; both of which are a little light for an 8800 GTS. Perhaps an upgrade might help 3D stability? Are you having general instability when you go higher, or only in gaming? If the latter, seriously consider this.

5) I notice your CPU temp is already fairly high. 44Âº C in the BIOS? At what temperature does it load? Do you have any head room? Perhaps a de-lidding or a more powerful cooler might be in your future? Perhaps you can replace the fan on the CNPS9700 with something bigger if you are handy with a dremmel.

6) This is a random guess, but; I have heard that making burst length longer can help with RAM stability at high speeds. I HAVE NOT TRIED THIS. I DO NOT KNOW IF THIS CAN FRY YOUR OS. DO NOT BLAME ME IF IT DOES. (Shame you cannot make driving strength stronger. Your only option is "weak.")

7) You may need more VCore. See previous caveat about temperatures.

I know this is rambling and not in any cohesive order; but thats what I can give you right now.


----------



## iandroo888

1. will try.
2. should i change to 100?
3. will do.
4. its an ultra x-finity psu that i got form radio shack free after rebate like 2 years ago. it has served well and i have been considering a new psu. Depending on if i can sell this rig or not, i may get a corsair 550w or something if i do keep the rig.
5. as of right now with just firefox, and aim and some minimized applications open (cpu utilization 0% - 3%), according to Everest, its 43/24 core1 core 2 respectively. for some reason, idle temps are wierd, delta isnt as big when its at load. maybe its the contact of the heatsink? cooling one side more then other? 
6. what?...
7. last attempts with oc'ing was when i had the Cooler Master Hyper TX2 that i modified and put two 80mm's with a push-pull positioning. i have not tried with teh zalman 9700 considering i got it at the beginning of summer and had to drop oc a little. but i changed rooms recently to a cooler room so thats why im considering doin OC'ing again and maybe help on the temps.. at least ambiants arent high enuf to make me sweat so much here.

*edit to #5*

also, i have considered de-lidding it but, running to the same problem as pioneerisloud, due to the mounting system that the zalman has, theres no way to (missing word here) for the few mm height lost due to the lid being off


----------



## Blitz6804

Okay; ambients are not really THAT connected to CPU temp. This is especially true if you have good case ventilation. Joe's ambients are, in general, 10Âº C higher than mine. On the flip side, he S&Ms about 5Âº C lower than mine. Capice?

As for the delta; you either have a faulty sensor, or a bad mount. Before you assume the former, I would consider remounting. Make sure you check the spread pattern on both the cooler and the CPU when you pull the heatsink off. If one side is well spread but the other is just kind of, there, then you likely have a bad mount. Clean both surfaces throughly with isopropanol, put a small bead of TIM in the middle of the CPU, then remount the heatsink. Remove the heat sink again and check the spread pattern. If it is again uneven, you have a bad lap job. If it is even, you had a bad mount. Make sure you mount it properly this time.


----------



## Blitz6804

Iandroo888 asked me to post these on his behalf:

Zalman CNPS9700 LED

Opteron 165

In my opinion, the lap looks good, but there appears to be too much TIM. Someone want to back me up? I told him that in my opinion, the TIM should be about the size of the circled plastic nub in the bottom-left corner of the Opteron picture. Pressure is all that should be used to spread it.


----------



## Xyro TR1

There is alot of paste on that CPU. That will GREATLY drop temps if you just use one little drop. I'm talking about a pinprick-sized drip. Thermal paste is designed to fill tiny gaps between the HSF and the CPU, while allowing as much direct contact between them as possible.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Also, to deviate away from the discussion just a bit...

I GOTS A PACKAGE yesterday from Blitz6804!!


This thing wouldn't cool properly...


So I bought a new cooler. Guess which one is new...


And it works!!!


Srsly!


----------



## Blitz6804

I would like to put on the record:

Zalman does a much better mill job than Thermalright.

The cooler I sent to Xyro is STOCK. That is the way I pulled it out of the box. Seriously; look at that shine!


----------



## nategr8ns

what were your temps with the other cooler?
and wow, that thing sure is shiny!


----------



## Xyro TR1

Temps hit well over 60C load with the other cooler. With the new one... 44C.


----------



## iandroo888

yah the new zalmans have a really good lapped base. its a mirror.

wish i had those temps.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Master Chief* 
][/URL]

Master Chief, welcome to the club









Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
In my opinion, the lap looks good, but there appears to be too much TIM. Someone want to back me up? I told him that in my opinion, the TIM should be about the size of the circled plastic nub in the bottom-left corner of the Opteron picture. Pressure is all that should be used to spread it.

I'm in agreement with blitz. That is way to much TIM on the cooler and processor. Remember the DIE is in the middle underneath the heatspreader. A rice grain size is plenty









Good luck


----------



## iandroo888

i took a picture of the "blob" i put. doesnt look like a lot.. i put it, the put the heatsink, and put some pressure down.. i took off the heatsink and the TIM covered like a nickle size coin area.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
i took a picture of the "blob" i put. doesnt look like a lot.. i put it, the put the heatsink, and put some pressure down.. i took off the heatsink and the TIM covered like a nickle size coin area.

Iandroo, was the TIM spread across the IHS evenly? To me that's what it looks like. I use to do this on my P4's but then soon realized that the DIE is only thing that needs cooling









Good luck


----------



## iandroo888

yah the TIM was spread pretty evenly. so i dont know... i put it back together already so will see how it does now..


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
yah the TIM was spread pretty evenly. so i dont know... i put it back together already so will see how it does now..

iandroo888, there really is no temperature difference spreading the TIM across the IHS as oppose to only applying a rice size grain in the middle. You actually waste more TIM spreading it across the IHS. Like Blitz said above, when you mount the cooler, the TIM in the middle will spread by itself so don't worry.

Good luck


----------



## iandroo888

i know..

btw th1nk3rb311, why havent you joined my cm 690 club T_T


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


why havent you joined my cm 690 club T_T


Iandroo, not sure. Am I suppose to?









I just haven't had time to take pictures of my case like I've been wanting to.


----------



## iandroo888

haha i see yes u are supposed to join my club







cuz cm 690 pwnz all


----------



## nategr8ns

except the aeroengine II


----------



## iandroo888

i dont like how the aeroengine II looks.. just my opinion.. hows the airflow though?


----------



## Blitz6804

I was originally planning an ABS El Diablo for my next case. Joe tells me there are a lot of complaints about it. Now I seriously reconsidering going to my first covetee, the Thermaltake Armor.


----------



## boonie2

Still Cant Beat A Good Antec 900


----------



## nategr8ns

I'm not sure how to measure airflow, but there's definitely air-a-flowin'


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
Still Cant Beat A Good Antec 900
















*cough* liar *cough*

24 - 1200
44 - 900
15 - 300

83 total.. in club.. with 3 different cases...

cm 690... with 1 case.. even modded group has more then 900.. ;D

=P haha im just joking

both are great cases. just cm 690 is better ;D


----------



## boonie2

and those numbers mean........................?


----------



## Blitz6804

There are 24 owners of Antec 1200s (full tower). 44 owners of Antec 900s (mid tower). 15 owners of Antec 300 (mini tower).

Thus, 83 people own an Antec to Coolermaster's 900+. His club however looks to be about 118 members.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
and those numbers mean........................?









My thoughts exactly







.


----------



## iandroo888

CM690 >>> Antec in general. lol


----------



## Xyro TR1

I'm at 2.85Ghz. Cool.

Gets too hot to run Orthos for any defenitive length of time, unfortunately. It IS stable with gaming and 3DMark.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
CM690 >>> Antec in general. lol

CM590 >>>>>> CM690, and half the price!


----------



## Anqt31

So guys, I am sad to say, I have to go off the active 939'er list. I am retiring my 939 rig and selling off the parts to build a computer for college calculations.


----------



## Blitz6804

Alright. I am moving you to the retired list now. (;_


----------



## Anqt31

Thanks... I'll build a new rig eventually, but until then, I guess I'm a nostalgic!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


So guys, I am sad to say, I have to go off the active 939'er list. I am retiring my 939 rig and selling off the parts to build a computer for college calculations.


Anqt, good luck dude









Can you tell us about your new project?


----------



## Anqt31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Anqt, good luck dude









Can you tell us about your new project?


Okay... really briefly the project I'm working on deals with Agent-Based Models and Simulations. It uses advanced C++ and Java programming. I am build my programs so that they utilize all cores on the processor. In the case I'm working on now, I set the program to use 16 threads, (4 per core). The research I am doing works with different political responses as a result of different actions. One example, is when Russia invaded Georgia, the US immediately signed the contract to put missle bases in Poland and parked it's ships of the Coast of Georgia. Since I'm just a freshman this year, I'm slowly being integrated into the program... but even that little bit requires a hefty computer.

Speaking of which... if at some point in time I need more computers, can I get your guy's help in a "[email protected]" style?


----------



## iandroo888

what you mean help in a "[email protected]" style?


----------



## Blitz6804

Distributed computing. IE, can he send you a client which will enable you to help his rig compute things.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


1. will try.
2. should i change to 100?
3. will do.
4. its an ultra x-finity psu that i got form radio shack free after rebate like 2 years ago. it has served well and i have been considering a new psu. Depending on if i can sell this rig or not, i may get a corsair 550w or something if i do keep the rig.
5. as of right now with just firefox, and aim and some minimized applications open (cpu utilization 0% - 3%), according to Everest, its 43/24 core1 core 2 respectively. for some reason, idle temps are wierd, delta isnt as big when its at load. maybe its the contact of the heatsink? cooling one side more then other? 
6. what?...
7. last attempts with oc'ing was when i had the Cooler Master Hyper TX2 that i modified and put two 80mm's with a push-pull positioning. i have not tried with teh zalman 9700 considering i got it at the beginning of summer and had to drop oc a little. but i changed rooms recently to a cooler room so thats why im considering doin OC'ing again and maybe help on the temps.. at least ambiants arent high enuf to make me sweat so much here.

*edit to #5*

also, i have considered de-lidding it but, running to the same problem as pioneerisloud, due to the mounting system that the zalman has, theres no way to (missing word here) for the few mm height lost due to the lid being off


droo, would you happen to know the exact model numbers of your RAM? Corsair has a maddening glut of products, and this makes it a little challenging to find exactly which ICs your RAM carries. Once we know which ICs its got, hopefully we can help tune your RAM and system and maybe squeeze out more MHz.









By the way, good job, everyone. Sorry I've been away a while; been stupidly busy at work (without OCN access, to boot), and have been with my family the last couple of days.









And welcome to The Master Chief! Glad to have you with us.







And Anqt: Always a S939er, always a S939er.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Distributed computing. IE, can he send you a client which will enable you to help his rig compute things.


oh i see. maybe. will see how many running rigs i have at that time. would love to help if i could









Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


droo, would you happen to know the exact model numbers of your RAM? Corsair has a maddening glut of products, and this makes it a little challenging to find exactly which ICs your RAM carries. Once we know which ICs its got, hopefully we can help tune your RAM and system and maybe squeeze out more MHz.









By the way, good job, everyone. Sorry I've been away a while; been stupidly busy at work (without OCN access, to boot), and have been with my family the last couple of days.









And welcome to The Master Chief! Glad to have you with us.







And Anqt: Always a S939er, always a S939er.










checking now.. will tell you in a few

CMX1024-3200C2PT xms3202v1.2 0621254-1 CL2

is that enough information?? tried my best to look at the label thru window with my flashlight.


----------



## Blitz6804

CMX1024-3200C2PT_____XMS3202 V1.2 0609001-1 = Infineon -5 Rev B 64M X 8


----------



## nategr8ns

anqt, please tell me you are going intel for their quads. I don't think anybody in this club can honestly say that the phenoms are competing with C2Qs at this point (overclocked, not sure about stock).


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
also, i have considered de-lidding it but, running to the same problem as pioneerisloud, due to the mounting system that the zalman has, theres no way to (missing word here) for the few mm height lost due to the lid being off

Actually, there may be. If you go to Lowes or Home Depot, you can get non-conducting plastic washers. If not, get the metal ones and uniformly wrap them in electrician's tape. Anyway, where I am going with this. If you put the washers between the backplate and the motherboard, that will bring the mounting frame closer to the socket. You are however limited by the height of your motherboard's standoffs however.


----------



## boonie2

get outside


----------



## txtmstrjoe

iandroo, if Blitz is correct, and you're indeed running BE-5s, here are some generalizations:

Running CAS Latency 3 settings (the rest you have to massage a bit, but let's start with 3-3-3-7-1T), BE-5 RAM that I've played with can scale really high. I have a set that can hit upwards of 240MHz. That's not to say yours can do that, but to really know what your RAM can do, you have to test it on its own. That is, you have to reset your RAM so it runs 1:1 with the HTT clock (set to "200MHz"), reset your HTT clock ("FSB") to stock, your CPU multiplier to a low number (say 6x), and your HT multiplier to 2x. This will completely isolate your RAM clock.

Reset the timings to stock, as well, and set VDIMM to 2.75V. Then, in 5MHz steps, increase your HTT clock (therefore increasing your RAM clock) and test with MemTest86+ with every increase. For a quick test, run Test 5 for at least five loops and Test 8 for at least three loops. (Run more loops for more thoroughness, if desired.) If MemTest86+ doesn't show any errors, boot into the OS and run SuperPi 32M to establish basic OS stability. Just repeat these steps every time you increase your HTT clock speed.

If MemTest86+ shows an error, or if SuperPi doesn't finish due to a calculation error, that means it's time to start adjusting your timings. Cas Lat is the first timing to increase. 3 is the loosest I'd recommend for Cas Lat for DDR, so increase it to that. This should buy you a lot of headroom (circa 15MHz, if not more). Repeat the testing steps outlined above.

So, basically, once you start getting MemTest86+ or SuperPi errors, you just adjust your timings and continue testing. Be aware, though, that subsequent gains from loosening the timings methodically will become smaller and smaller as far as gaining MHz; your RAM is approaching its limits. And do not be tempted to run the Infineons with super-high VDIMM. They do not respond to high VDIMM as well as older ICs (Winbond BH-5/CH-5, Samsung TCCD/TCC5s). Too much VDIMM will highly accelerate voltage-induced degradation.

I've attached some BIOS shots of my setup (my RAM is based on similar ICs, Infineon BE-5); mind you, these are just for reference. The timings ought to be helpful, since my RAM is running well below its maximum potential (because it's running on a divider).

RAM testing (actually, any facet of proper overclocking) is a very involved process. Shortcuts are unproductive; you cheat yourself by taking shortcuts because you don't explore possible solutions. On the other hand, patience and thoroughness and meticulousness are immensely rewarding. Try and test everything you can.









Hope this helps.


----------



## boonie2




----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


iandroo, if Blitz is correct, and you're indeed running BE-5s, here are some generalizations:

Running CAS Latency 3 settings (the rest you have to massage a bit, but let's start with 3-3-3-7-1T), BE-5 RAM that I've played with can scale really high. I have a set that can hit upwards of 240MHz. That's not to say yours can do that, but to really know what your RAM can do, you have to test it on its own. That is, you have to reset your RAM so it runs 1:1 with the HTT clock (set to "200MHz"), reset your HTT clock ("FSB") to stock, your CPU multiplier to a low number (say 6x), and your HT multiplier to 2x. This will completely isolate your RAM clock.

Reset the timings to stock, as well, and set VDIMM to 2.75V. Then, in 5MHz steps, increase your HTT clock (therefore increasing your RAM clock) and test with MemTest86+ with every increase. For a quick test, run Test 5 for at least five loops and Test 8 for at least three loops. (Run more loops for more thoroughness, if desired.) If MemTest86+ doesn't show any errors, boot into the OS and run SuperPi 32M to establish basic OS stability. Just repeat these steps every time you increase your HTT clock speed.

If MemTest86+ shows an error, or if SuperPi doesn't finish due to a calculation error, that means it's time to start adjusting your timings. Cas Lat is the first timing to increase. 3 is the loosest I'd recommend for Cas Lat for DDR, so increase it to that. This should buy you a lot of headroom (circa 15MHz, if not more). Repeat the testing steps outlined above.

So, basically, once you start getting MemTest86+ or SuperPi errors, you just adjust your timings and continue testing. Be aware, though, that subsequent gains from loosening the timings methodically will become smaller and smaller as far as gaining MHz; your RAM is approaching its limits. And do not be tempted to run the Infineons with super-high VDIMM. They do not respond to high VDIMM as well as older ICs (Winbond BH-5/CH-5, Samsung TCCD/TCC5s). Too much VDIMM will highly accelerate voltage-induced degradation.

I've attached some BIOS shots of my setup (my RAM is based on similar ICs, Infineon BE-5); mind you, these are just for reference. The timings ought to be helpful, since my RAM is running well below its maximum potential (because it's running on a divider).

RAM testing (actually, any facet of proper overclocking) is a very involved process. Shortcuts are unproductive; you cheat yourself by taking shortcuts because you don't explore possible solutions. On the other hand, patience and thoroughness and meticulousness are immensely rewarding. Try and test everything you can.









Hope this helps.










 whoa. nice







must try when i have a week of free time xD









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Actually, there may be. If you go to Lowes or Home Depot, you can get non-conducting plastic washers. If not, get the metal ones and uniformly wrap them in electrician's tape. Anyway, where I am going with this. If you put the washers between the backplate and the motherboard, that will bring the mounting frame closer to the socket. You are however limited by the height of your motherboard's standoffs however.


washer... between backplate and mobo... wouldnt that further increase the height between the zalman and cpu @[email protected] the mounting frame is already on the mobo so adding washers to taht will not help.. i was thinkin of adding a washer in the middle of the heatsink where the O mounting part is.. if not bending the bracket itself..

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


anqt, please tell me you are going intel for their quads. I don't think anybody in this club can honestly say that the phenoms are competing with C2Qs at this point (overclocked, not sure about stock).


will see how those FX phenoms go. rumors at 4ghz stock  that may give intel some competition if it is true. at this point, none of AMD is giving any of the C2D or C2Q line competition unfortunately. Hope AMD will do something spectacular.. im like || close in goin to teh dark side..

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


CMX1024-3200C2PT_____XMS3202 V1.2 0609001-1 = Infineon -5 Rev B 64M X 8


----------



## StormX2

mmmm i never have free time =)


----------



## nategr8ns

I personally think that I'm fine with an 8800gt and my opteron. Although 4ghz stock quads? That's awesome.
If I ever get this new motherboard of mine working, I will go sli in the future, but I don't need it now.

I'm going to be saving up for a car/parts (depends how soon my mom buys a new one







)


----------



## StormX2

yah sounds like a plan, I think I am incredibly interested in the new AMD chips..
I will be saving all my money for an adventure into it.


----------



## Anqt31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


anqt, please tell me you are going intel for their quads. I don't think anybody in this club can honestly say that the phenoms are competing with C2Qs at this point (overclocked, not sure about stock).


yep, I went with a Q6600... (I really wish S939 had a quad so I could have kept my S939 rig







)


----------



## StormX2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


yep, I went with a Q6600... (I really wish S939 had a quad so I could have kept my S939 rig







)



omg id **** my pants if I could get a Quopteron in this Mobo!


----------



## Blitz6804

Anyone interested in my DDR500s? My delid failed horribly. Also, my motherboard died. My parents are giving me three options for repair:

1) Repair the motherboard, downgrade to a San Diego
2) Upgrade to AM2
3) Upgrade to LGA775 (which is what they are both pushing for; you know my opinion)

That said, I am pricing out the AM2 option. No reasonable RAM offer will be turned down. On the chopping block are two, 2-gig kits of Mushkin Redline Extreme DDR 500 3-3-2-8-1T and one, 2-gig kit of Corsair XMS C2PT 2-3-3-6-1T. If anyone is interested, let me know now before I post in the for-sale section.


----------



## iandroo888

$40 for the DDR500 (only has 40 in wallet right now)

why not lga775? chances are if u go am2, u gonna have to get a am2+ board so u may have a chance at that fx phenom when they come out..


----------



## The Master Chief

I just posted my 939th post, and what better place to proclaim that than the 939 club thread!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Master Chief*


I just posted my 939th post, and what better place to proclaim that than the 939 club thread!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Master Chief*


I just posted my 939th post, and what better place to proclaim that than the 939 club thread!


Master Chief, congrats









Blitz, you absolutely have no other motherboard that you could use that is PCI-E? If your on a budget I would stay with AMD. If you have enough money then go with LGA775. That is my 2 cents.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

My upgrades cost $297. Getting a CPU, a Mobo, and RAM. The case, PSU, GPU, HDDs, bling, DVD, FDD, etc, are being recycled.

And no; I have only a pair of AGP boards.

EDIT: I could have gone LGA775 for $90 *more. My mother would have been much happier if I did. I however, cannot, will not, and shall not, spend my own money on that company.


----------



## Xyro TR1

I found it somewhat amusing that both mine and Blitz's rigs died at around the same time.

Essentially, it all started from a dead (read: shorted out) floppy drive. During the teardown, I believe I damaged my mainboard, and now it won't recognize any of my 3 PCI-E video cards. (That little uGuru thing is cool!)

So, the plan is to throw my Opty 180 in the gameserver (replacing YiffyGriffy's Opty 148), as well as my RAM, as servers can take all the RAM they can get.

The new stuff that I ordered is as follows: (and don't worry, no Intel for me!)
- AMD Athlon64 X2 5400+ Black Edition (Brisbane)
- MSI K9A2 Platinum AMD790FX
- 2x 2GB G.Skill DDR2 1000
- Seagate 500GB SATA 3.0GB/s (to add to my other two, making RAID5)
- Lite-On SATA DVD-RW w/ Lightscribe (Cus I got fed up with IDE cables, matches other one, too)
- Scythe Andy CPU Cooler

Equipment I'm re-using:
- Coolermaster Centurion 590
- Corsair VX550W PSU
- 2x 500GB Seagate SATA HD's
- Lite-On SATA DVD-RW w/ Lightscribe


----------



## nategr8ns

I find it funny that both your parents know what a socket is







.
My dad knows a little bit about computers, but my mom doesn't know and doesn't care.


----------



## StormX2

its hard to not grab a one of those inexpensive DFI boards that rape 400-500 fsb and throw something silly like OEM q6600 or something dirt cheap like e2180/e2200 or even the e5200.

specially wih 2x2 gb kits of ram tha destroy our DDR1 speed's for $80 and less =(

I need more time out of this rig before I build anything new. And I still do not want to give any money to intel..

the exact reason why I am hoping for some AMD Sucess stories to be coming around soon.
Once I feel they will land on a socket and stay there for a while I will get the least expensive of the proc line so long as it is faster than my Opty. I really want to build and play with something fast =)


----------



## Blitz6804

If you want a little more speed StormX2; I have some DDR500 for you to purchase. According to Joe, it should be the CE5/6 IMCs.


----------



## StormX2

thanx for the ofer, but I am starting to think that I can probobly get up to 500 mh if i play with the timing's and all these wonderfully confusing option's that this psychotic motherboard has.

I have ectually relaxed a bit on the overclock since I have been having some instability lately. Honestly thinking that spending a single dollar on this machine woul dbe waistefull, and well I do not waiste anything ^^

though i think Pez may be interested big time!


----------



## Blitz6804

Got an update from Abit. They no longer are servicing that motherboard. Best of luck to you Xyro!

If ever I get extra money, I still intend to one day to rig up my San Diego. Might use it as a dedicated server (since a Radeon 9700 will not game anything modern anyway).


----------



## StormX2

mm My san diego chip was pretty nice

the KABQE 3700, the most Mystifying Single core 939 proc in existance =)
If I had better cooling i probobly woul dhave made it to 3.1

Too bad I will never find somethin usefull to do with it =(
No time to test and torture it -.- mybe I can sell the whole machine for like $100
doubt anyone would want to buy the 7800 gt


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Got an update from Abit. They no longer are servicing that motherboard. Best of luck to you Xyro!












Can't wait to get the new goodies in. Since I'll still be (actively) using the 180 in the UT3 server, can I stay on the active list?







I'll get a new CPU-Z Validation, too.


----------



## Blitz6804

You sure can. Personally, I am hanging around this club until the door shuts on my bum. I do not consider myself a "nostalgic" but rather, still an active lover of 939. It was the system that taught me overclocking. The system that taught me PCI-E (meh) and Crossfire (*jawdrop*). Further, the system brought me a good two dozen friends or so; for a lonely introvert like me, that is always a cool thing.

Hey people... what time is it!? *Waves the throngs chanting "9:39."*

DO NOT FORGET PEOPLE:

I am having a party at my place September 3rd, 2009. You get your own plane / train / car reservations; I'll provide sleeping quarters and food. If people want to help with the booze (provided you are LEGALLY ALLOWED TO DRINK*) I would not mind at all; makes a bigger selection that way.

*In NYS, this is 21 since none of you are my children.


----------



## Anqt31

Gees... I switch to get a new rig and the whole world falls apart.









@ Blitz... I have an opty 165 and a A8N-SLI Deluxe if you are interested. The mobo is on it's way back from RMA


----------



## Blitz6804

The 165 I might be interested in if the price is right. (Read: cheap.) I can set that up in my AGP rig. Unless you also have a cheap PCI/PCI-E video card and my motherboard can be repaired.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
You sure can. Personally, I am hanging around this club until the door shuts on my bum. I do not consider myself a "nostalgic" but rather, still an active lover of 939. It was the system that taught me overclocking. The system that taught me PCI-E (meh) and Crossfire (*jawdrop*). Further, the system brought me a good two dozen friends or so; for a lonely introvert like me, that is always a cool thing.

Hey people... what time is it!? *Waves the throngs chanting "9:39."*

DO NOT FORGET PEOPLE:

I am having a party at my place September 3rd, 2009. You get your own plane / train / car reservations; I'll provide sleeping quarters and food. If people want to help with the booze (provided you are LEGALLY ALLOWED TO DRINK*) I would not mind at all; makes a bigger selection that way.

*In NYS, this is 21 since none of you are my children.

wee im legal as of last thursday ;D aww man i was saving up for cruise next year T_T and plus, school started by sept.. T_T

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Anqt31* 
Gees... I switch to get a new rig and the whole world falls apart.









@ Blitz... I have an opty 165 and a A8N-SLI Deluxe if you are interested. The mobo is on it's way back from RMA

 what steppin on that opty


----------



## nategr8ns

blitz, what does being your child change?
Also: School started today, so I couldn't make it to NY even if I had the money







.


----------



## Blitz6804

In New York, you may give alcohol to your children, regardless of their age, provided they are in your house, you are home, you give them the alcohol, and they do not leave the property while inebriated.

Many states have similar statutes.

Contrary to popular belief, there is no de jure federal drinking age in the United States. The de facto federal law is of course 21. That is, there is no federal law mandating that it be 21, but all fifty states happen to have 21 as there age. There is presently a bill in the NYS legislature to reduce NYS to 19; I will keep all posted.

And Nate; the party is 366 days away, plenty of time for everyone to get funded. Hence the heads up. For most, this will equate to saving $1 a day for the entire year to get you the requisite air-fare. (I am paying my fair fare by feeding you all.)


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz, have you decided on what motherboard and processor your going to purchase (AM2)? You might want to give the 5000+ BE a try, some of the overclocks on that processor are very nice.

Good luck


----------



## nategr8ns

but the 5000+ is almost as old as our 939 systems!








If (big if) I were to go AM2, I would get a DFI with an AMD chipset.
Life This one







http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813136044

ooh, but this 775 one is really tempting







http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...2E16813136045R


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
but the 5000+ is almost as old as our 939 systems!








If (big if) I were to go AM2, I would get a DFI with an AMD chipset.
Life This one







http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813136044

Nate, age doesn't matter. The 5000+ BE is still a great processor









Blitz just got done notifying me that he purchased a 5400+ BE. Best of luck to you Blitz


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Indeed.

If age mattered, then S939 would be completely dead. But our family here knows the truth, though, don't we?









thlnk3r's right: Good is good. My Opteron is still good enough for what I need it for.







And it's still bags of fun to play with.

Irrelevance is all relative.


----------



## krazieaznboi

hey, can you remove me from the list please? i fed up with fixing my s939 so im moving on to an intel quad.

EDIT: im letting go my Opteron 165 CCBBE 0610DPMW (this is one of the best steppings you can get), DFI NF4-D (it is SATAII and SLI Modded, i used solder instead of a lead pencil), and i also have a opteron 144. just pm me if your interested.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *krazieaznboi*


hey, can you remove me from the list please? i fed up with fixing my s939 so im moving on to an intel quad.


Krazieaznboi, good luck with your new build


----------



## StormX2

some fool tried telling me the otherday that my Stock Cooler made me a noob -.-

Just goes to show how silly poeple are carelessly throwing words around.

I started my Online career back in 1992, and soon got into AOL and this was Long before anyone was ever called a Noob and no one had ever said the term LOL before.

I think this fact alone gives me Diplomatic Immunity...
I mean hell I was breking into poeples Computers with an Amiga in 7th grade!

First computer i Build was a 300 mhz Cyrix processor, and i overclocked the thing to 375 or 400 (i forgot exactly the different FSB settings back then)


----------



## Blitz6804

StormX2: As my mentor's alter ego would say, "Impressive. Most impressive."

krazieaznboi: Sorry to see you go. We can keep you on as a nostalgic / retired member if you wish. If you really would like to completely forget your time with Skt 939, we will remove you.

It makes me sad to see another go; this looks like a bad week for our club. (;_


----------



## StormX2

reallyw ish they made a Quopteron for 939


----------



## Xyro TR1

I really wish they made Opterons as a viable alternative to Athlon64's in AM2, as I'd have one. =)


----------



## Blitz6804

I am tentatively calling the new rig the "Xaser Brisfire." I am intending to do some wiring mods to the case too if I have time; I will make a build log for it once I get the parts.

Newegg should be here Friday.

No clue on FrozenCPU. (I had to buy an AM2 mounting frame for my SI-128.)


----------



## iandroo888

just an fyi, fry's has a set of corsair 2x1gb ddr400 member for 24.99. good deal for any rig that just needs some extra ram like a server or something









http://shop4.frys.com/product/470078...H:MAIN_RSLT_PG


----------



## Blitz6804

Just an FYI:

The RAM is $70 with a $40 mail-in-rebate. This makes a difference.

Further, it is out-of-stock.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *StormX2* 
I started my Online career back in 1992, and soon got into AOL and this was Long before anyone was ever called a Noob and no one had ever said the term LOL before.

OT: Storm I picked up my first AOL account in 94. Boy was it an adventure









The good ol' days of mail bombing and spamming in chat rooms


----------



## StormX2

Was Deffinitely an adventure, i learned how to Lag poeple out of therecomputers with IM's filled with 
*.
_
- rince and repeat a dozen times alternating length of each line

basically this would bit by bit sho up on your screen
._-._-._-._-._-._-._-._-._-._-

would take roughly 40 seconds for the recipients computer to load Each
so for that particular ammount of coding that i put as an example would be
roughly 20 min to load that little line!

and you could have easily sent that a few hundred times =)

wich I am still off Topic, but, that was what got me into overclocking, because when i boosted my Cyrix proc higher than 300 mhz, people were no longer able to lock my machine with HTML code =)*


----------



## Blitz6804

I can happily say I have never had an AOL account. I have been unfortunate to need to provide tech support to someone who did, but what are you gonna do?

I first was wired in 1999 by a now-defunct ISP called "IDT." When they went under, we swung to MSN. After a month of hating it, my family got broadband in 2000. It was at this time that I got internet on my PC rather than the family one (on my then-brand-new Thunderbird 900) and what a change it was.


----------



## nategr8ns

I've had timewarner's Roadrunner since ~90-95. I think between 90 and 92, but I'm not certain...
They just upgraded us (for free) from 5Mb to 8Mb. Speedtest.net can finally get almost 5Mb speeds!!!!!
I highly doubt it's actually 8Mb.


----------



## StormX2

mbit or mbyte?


----------



## nategr8ns

bit (little "b")


----------



## Blitz6804

Depends on traffic in the area at the time and the quality of the lines in the ground. Try it around 2-3 AM; you may get to be faster.

When I Optimum Online, it was supposedly 10.0 Mbps (1.25 MBps). The best I ever got around 3 AM was 8.0 Mbps (1.0 MBps). Most of the day, I got around 3.5 Mbps (0.4 MBps).

Time Warner (here) actually gets about 99% of my rated speed 99% of the time. The other 1% of the time, my cable is completely out.


----------



## krazieaznboi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Krazieaznboi, good luck with your new build









thanks, thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
krazieaznboi: Sorry to see you go. We can keep you on as a nostalgic / retired member if you wish. If you really would like to completely forget your time with Skt 939, we will remove you.

It makes me sad to see another go; this looks like a bad week for our club. (;_









i would love to stay in the club as a retired member.


----------



## StormX2

isnt time warner Fiber optic? kind of Like DSL right where it is a Dedicated line of speed.


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:



Originally Posted by *StormX2*


isnt time warner Fiber optic? kind of Like DSL right where it is a Dedicated line of speed.


I think it is.


----------



## Blitz6804

Not necessarily. Time Warner uses regular cable lines. If you have fiber optic cable lines, then yes. If you have standard copper lines, then no.

DSL uses a phone line; analog by definition.

Verizon FiOS uses fiber optic lines, again, by definition.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *StormX2*


isnt time warner Fiber optic? kind of Like DSL right where it is a Dedicated line of speed.


Storm, from what I understand TW runs Hybrid fiber coax to the nodes and from there they run Coax to the subscribers. Running fiber to your door would be expensive. I don't work for TW so I don't know all the details.

Good luck


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Not necessarily. Time Warner uses regular cable lines. If you have fiber optic cable lines, then yes. If you have standard copper lines, then no.

DSL uses a phone line; analog by definition.

*Verizon FiOS uses fiber optic lines, again, by definition.*


I can testify to this, as there is a fiber junction box stuck to the side of my house. FTTH FTW.

I currently have 15Mbps Down, 2Mbps up. Starting Thursday (TOMORROW!) I have 20Mbps Down, 20Mbps up. My (and my friends') gameserver-in-progress is going to be on the same speed package. 4ms pings are a wonderful thing!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*


I can testify to this, as there is a fiber junction box stuck to the side of my house. FTTH FTW.

I currently have 15Mbps Down, 2Mbps up. Starting Thursday (TOMORROW!) I have 20Mbps Down, 20Mbps up. My (and my friends') gameserver-in-progress is going to be on the same speed package. 4ms pings are a wonderful thing!


Xyro, what is the price your paying now for 15 down and 2 up? How about the 20 down and 20 up? Does your plan on a cap per Month?

Back on topic, can someone (mainly Blitz perhaps) explain why tRFC is so important between 6-8?


----------



## Blitz6804

tRFC is rarely, if ever, between 6 and 8. tRFC is usually supposed to be 2-4 greater than tRC, which in turn, is the sum of tRAS and tRP. As tRAS+tRP is rarely under 8, never mind 4, you would never expect to see a tRFC of 6-8.

As to its importance, no, I cannot. I never did any real bandwidth versus stability testing. I did notice that with failing memory, the rig would post at tRC=19/tRFC=22, but would not at anything tighter. According to the formulas, it should have been 8/12 respectively.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


tRFC is rarely, if ever, between 6 and 8. tRFC is usually supposed to be 2-4 greater than tRC, which in turn, is the sum of tRAS and tRP. As tRAS+tRP is rarely under 8, never mind 4, you would never expect to see a tRFC of 6-8.

As to its importance, no, I cannot. I never did any real bandwidth versus stability testing. I did notice that with failing memory, the rig would post at tRC=19/tRFC=22, but would not at anything tighter. According to the formulas, it should have been 8/12 respectively.


Blitz, so tRFC is suppose to be between 2 and 4. Which of the memory settings was in the 6 and 8 range? Perhaps I am getting my numbers mixed up here


----------



## Blitz6804

No, tRFC is supposed to be 2-4 GREATER than tRC.

Exempli gratia:

Suppose my memory was as follows:

tCL = 2
tRCD = 3
tRP = 3
tRAS = 6

We would expect my tRC to be 9 (tRP+tRAS) and my tRFC to be 11-13 (tRC+2, +3, or +4).


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


No, tRFC is supposed to be 2-4 GREATER than tRC.

Exempli gratia:

Suppose my memory was as follows:

tCL = 2
tRCD = 3
tRP = 3
tRAS = 6

We would expect my tRC to be 9 (tRP+tRAS) and my tRFC to be 11-13 (tRC+2, +3, or +4).


Blitz, thank you for the explanation. Why does the tRFC have to be greater (2-4) then tRC? Sorry to be ignorant on this, I'm just curious


----------



## txtmstrjoe

If and when (as my tester system has been, um, testing my patience much whenever I've gone in and tried to play with it) I get time to get into the CFX3200's BIOS and get testing and overclocking with it again, I'll see what I can find out about tRFC. Blitz's statement about it being the sum of tRAS and tRP jives with what I've read as well, but in practice it's too tight a setting (for both DFIs I've played with). Its effects on bandwidth and stability are also unknown to me at his time, but is a temporary condition.









First things first, though: I need to restore the CFX3200 to a stable setting. I got too aggressive with some tweaking the other day, and the BIOS fell off the face of the earth!







The board is now sans CMOS battery and with the CMOS Clear jumper out.


----------



## Blitz6804

To be perfectly honest, I do not know. I never purport to know WHY RAM timings are as they are. Perhaps, one day, I will email JEDEC and see what they have to say on the matter. I know that my Mushkins SPDed at 3-3-2-8-2T-11-17. Loosening the 11/17 to the mathematically-dictated 10/14 did increase bandwidth. I saw no difference in stability. When I tightened them down to 2-3-2-6, I lowered them to 8/12. They were S&M stable. Bandwidth was about 5700 MBps aysnc DDR 400.


----------



## Blitz6804

For the record, Frozen CPU is great.

I ordered my AM2, SI-128 retention bracket from them an hour after I placed my order with Newegg. Via post office, I received it 39 hours later. (The tracking number shows it as not yet shipped. Gotta love the USPS.)

My Newegg should be arriving tomorrow based on the tracking number.

Provided Xaser Brisfire goes together without a hitch, I might do some bandwidth testing at various RAM timings with the Sandy on the Gigabyte.

NO PROMISES HOWEVER.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Xyro, what is the price your paying now for 15 down and 2 up? How about the 20 down and 20 up? Does your plan on a cap per Month?

If I remember right, it's ~$50/month currently. 20/20 home is ~$65/mo. The 20/20 business that we might have to get if Verizon complains, is $100/mo. That's also with a dedicated IP. None of the packages have a cap, or if they do, it's really damned high, as I'm quite sure I'd have hit it.

Right now, I'm content with using DynDNS, since with UT3, you can just connect directly through a domain name instead of an IP.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1* 
If I remember right, it's ~$50/month currently. 20/20 home is ~$65/mo. The 20/20 business that we might have to get if Verizon complains, is $100/mo. That's also with a dedicated IP. None of the packages have a cap, or if they do, it's really damned high, as I'm quite sure I'd have hit it.

Right now, I'm content with using DynDNS, since with UT3, you can just connect directly through a domain name instead of an IP.

Xyro, that's interesting. I'm paying roughly the same thing for 6Mbit down and 500Kbit up (TW customer). I'll need to look into this Verizon Fios. So users connect to your UT3 server using your Dyndns address? How's the load on your network? How many users? Is this on a S939 rig?









Good luck


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Xyro, that's interesting. I'm paying roughly the same thing for 6Mbit down and 500Kbit up (TW customer). I'll need to look into this Verizon Fios. So users connect to your UT3 server using your Dyndns address? How's the load on your network? How many users? Is this on a S939 rig?









Good luck

My 180 is going into the server!







Yes, people who know the address connect through the dyndns addy. Now, the server is still in the build process, and we're hosting the ded server applet on YiffyGriffy's Q6600 rig. We had 15 people on the server last time we ran it (it's off right now). I think we've run more, too. The new 939 build is DEFINATELY going to be 24/7. Network load... practically empty. Probably 15% at most. The only reason it isn't together is that the PSU isn't here from the Egg yet. As soon as it goes live, it'll be in my siggy as well as a post here.


----------



## Blitz6804

Note:

PRICES VARY BY LOCALITY

FiOS quoted us at $60 a month for 5/1; $70 a month for 10/2, and $80 a month for 15/5. (This is Long Island. Amherst is much cheaper.)

I fear that to run cables to the Triangulum Galaxy might cost you a wee bit more. *Wink*


----------



## The Master Chief

So I'm overclocking this 939 cpu right, and I got it to 2.7. When I try to go higher, it wont work. And by wont work, as I raise FSB, the clock stays at 2.7?


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Master Chief* 
So I'm overclocking this 939 cpu right, and I got it to 2.7. When I try to go higher, it wont work. And by wont work, as I raise FSB, the clock stays at 2.7?

Is this your sigrig?


----------



## Blitz6804

How much higher have you tried? Some motherboards misbehave with FSBs (my Gigabyte comes to mind) and as such, a little bit more might make it show again.

Xyro, it is "Sun!" in his profile.


----------



## Xyro TR1

If not, clear CMOS and try again.


----------



## The Master Chief

It boots up, but in the same config. FYI, not my sig rig. http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=410978
That is the rig.

Lemme, boot down and see how high the FSB will go. brb.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

The Master Chief, Blitz alludes to the so-called "FSB Hole." Some motherboards have a range of HTT Clock (a.k.a. "FSB") frequencies wherein the board will fail to pass POST. Go higher than this range, and the system passes POST and behaves normally.

Unfortunately, it's completely unpredictable where this HTT Clock frequency range is for any motherboard, or if the motherboard even suffers from this at all. You just find it through testing and troubleshoot it through testing.

A possible to try if it's indeed the so-called FSB Hole is increasing your chipset voltages a tad. Increasing the signal strength through overvolting might help. Oftentimes, though, it's simply finding the far end of that frequency range (say, if the hole starts at 270MHz and ends at 295MHz, a setting of 296MHz and above will work perfectly well).

Just be prepared to accept that it may not be a FSB Hole you're looking at, but your motherboard's absolute limit in scaling its HTT Clock.

Good luck.







And hope this helps.


----------



## Xyro TR1

I was about to say up the voltage a bit. Also, make sure your multi stays the same?


----------



## Blitz6804

Okay... SiS chipset. OUTSTANDING performance gains given your chipset.

What I was alluding to was not the "FSB Hole." It is a good observation though. What I was talking about was FSB instability. That is, an increase in the BIOS does not equate to one in the OS and vice-versa. On my Gigabyte for example: 200 => 201; 254 => 255; 232 = 233 = 234 => 232.

(I would also lower your HT-link if possible. It is getting a fuzz high.)


----------



## The Master Chief

I cannot adjust CPU voltage on this basic input output system. I might try to up the voltage on the chipset, if I can even do that on this mobo, kinda limited. O well, thanks guys!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Okay... SiS chipset. OUTSTANDING performance gains given your chipset.

*What I was alluding to was not the "FSB Hole."* It is a good observation though. What I was talking about was FSB instability. That is, an increase in the BIOS does not equate to one in the OS and vice-versa. On my Gigabyte for example: 200 => 201; 254 => 255; 232 = 233 = 234 => 232.

Oopsies. My bad.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Master Chief* 
I cannot adjust CPU voltage on this basic input output system. I might try to up the voltage on the chipset, if I can even do that on this mobo, kinda limited. O well, thanks guys!

Master Chief, as Blitz suggested please try changing your HT link to a lower number multiplier. Right now your HT speed is pretty high which could be the limiting factor of your OC. Change the multiplier from 5x to 4x. Try and keep it below 1050mhz.

Good luck


----------



## The Master Chief

I never saw a place to change that, I will check it out again.


----------



## Blitz6804

From the looks of your manual, you should be able to change VCore. On page 2-14, you will see you need to set "FID/VID" to "[Manual]" unlock the "Processor Voltage" field.

On page 2-19, make sure "HT Speed" is set to "800 MHz."


----------



## nategr8ns

time warner in my area does not use fiber optics. Just regular old cable for me







.


----------



## The Master Chief

800? Ok its on auto now. core voltage set to 1.35. I'll go change my HT.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Master Chief* 
It boots up, but in the same config. FYI, not my sig rig. http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=410978
That is the rig.

Lemme, boot down and see how high the FSB will go. brb.

Those single core San Deigos are awsome , have 1 myself lying around here somewhere , when i joined here Had it to 3.0 on my lowely A8N SLI DELUXE board


----------



## The Master Chief

Just got 3.02 ghz! THANKS guys! + reps no doubt.

New validation: http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=412892


----------



## Blitz6804

Congrats The Master Chief. I will update you posthaste.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Master Chief* 
Just got 3.02 ghz! THANKS guys! + reps no doubt.

New validation: http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=412892

Congrats those are awsome for single cores


----------



## Xyro TR1

NICE clocks!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

If I had a hot Sandy or Venus, I'd definitely use it for our Stock Cooler Contest instead of the hotter-running dual-core Denmark.

(hint hint hint)


----------



## boonie2

Joe read my mind lol


----------



## The Master Chief

Lol, I don't have a stock cooler I don't think. I'll check around though def.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
Joe read my mind lol

What's that saying about great minds..?









@ The Master Chief: Do join the contest! I'd hate to think that it's still just a one-horse race.


----------



## The Master Chief

I have the AM2 stock cooler. Without the heat pipes just the grey aluminum. Also cant find occt 2.0 or w.e.

Lol wow who'd thought the front page had helpful locations?!


----------



## Blitz6804

As from Post 1:

OCCT 2.0a


----------



## The Master Chief

Says files are corrupt.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Newegg has a 24-Hour Sale going on with:

939 Athlon64 3800+ for *$21.99*

http://promotions.newegg.com/NEemail...-_-E0F-_-LCDTV

GO GO GO!!!


----------



## Anqt31

must really want to get rid of the rest of these... it even has Free Shipping.


----------



## Fear_Of_Dreams

I dont see why the 939 socket had to die so quickly. I mean it wasnt but a few months after AM2 and bam 939 is gone. Poof. What the?

My 939 setup only lasted me about 2 years before the CPU AND motherboard finally gave in (running over 380mhz x 7 didnt help it







) . I ventured on the web to build another 939 setup just cuz i didnt want to buy more RAM i figured it would be cheaper. Couldnt find 939 anything so i had to move onto AM2.

Its things like this that give me fear in computers. To know that just like that, an entire socket can vanish into thin air and if something is to go wrong with either your motherboard or CPU or RAM, you might just have to replace the ENTIRE setup. And thats how they make their money.


----------



## nategr8ns

You can blame the socket thing on AMD. They switch sockets too much.


----------



## Fear_Of_Dreams

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
You can blame the socket thing on AMD. They switch sockets too much.

Wait. Wasnt that one of AMDs slogins? That they are better than Intel cuz they DONT switch sockets as much? I coulda swore i heard some suit guy sayin all that jazz on a youtube video.....









Ehh, honestly Intel and AMD switch sockets about the same. I think Intel does have more sockets though but i dont really care. The thing that would hold AMD back for being flexible is the on die memory controller.


----------



## StormX2

well it was fairly true...

they stayed with the same sockets far longer than Intel, until 775, wich as much of an AMD guy, would have been nice to ride that rgavy train ya know?

the only thing that bums me out is no quad on 939, and I think they could have done a tri or quad core on a 939 setup, i think it woul dhave been viable option.

and mus I say ho wmuch i would Kill to have a Quopteron in this rig??


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Master Chief*


Just got 3.02 ghz! THANKS guys! + reps no doubt.

New validation: http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=412892


Master Chief, great job









How is your stability tests coming along? Did any of them pass?

Good luck


----------



## nategr8ns

Well they couldn't even have a quad on AM2 (is AM2+ actually a different socket? Or just a bios change?).
Although IIRC there were new bioses to allow quads on AM2.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Well they couldn't even have a quad on AM2 (is AM2+ actually a different socket? Or just a bios change?).
Although IIRC there were new bioses to allow quads on AM2.


Nate, AM2+ uses the same socket as AM2. AM2+ is sort of like the precursor to AM3. Supposedly AM3 will be fully compatible with socket AM2 as well.

Good luck


----------



## nategr8ns

weird. I thought it was called something different though








Like GS5 or something.

edit: AM3 processors are compatible with AM2 motherboards, but AM2 procs are not compatible with AM3 motherboards. WEIRD.


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Nate, AM2+ uses the same socket as AM2. AM2+ is sort of like the precursor to AM3. Supposedly AM3 will be fully compatible with socket AM2 as well.

Good luck









But AM3 won't be compatible with AM2. Kinda odd.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


edit: AM3 processors are compatible with AM2 motherboards, but AM2 procs are not compatible with AM3 motherboards. WEIRD.


Nate, I'm assuming that is because the AM3 motherboards will follow the new HT standard.


----------



## StormX2

this is why im not goign to do a dam thing till there is a viable performance upgrade in AMD for me.

and ocne I get to that road, i will cross it with 600-1000 bucks ^^

most likely go with the cheapest dual core AM3 so long as it is faster than my opty at its overclock, and thenwait till i can find a happy quad core to experiment with =)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Actually, the real reason why AM3 is not backwards compatible with AM2/AM2+ has more to do with the integrated memory controller. AM3 will be using DDR3; AM2/AM2+ runs DDR2.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Actually, the real reason why AM3 is not backwards compatible with AM2/AM2+ has more to do with the integrated memory controller. AM3 will be using DDR3; AM2/AM2+ runs DDR2.









Joe, I thought AM3 had support for both DDR2 and DDR3(integrated memory controller)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, I thought AM3 had support for both DDR2 and DDR3(integrated memory controller)









Really?

(Goes to wikipedia to check...)

Aha. thlnk3r was right.









Specifically:

_*AMD has confirmed that AM3 processors will work on AM2 motherboards. However, AM2 processors will not work on AM3 motherboards because AM2 processors lack the DDR3 memory controller. AM3 processors will support both DDR2 and DDR3 memory, but not on the same motherboard*. Therefore, users of Socket AM2 motherboards will be able to upgrade to AM3 processors, without replacing the motherboard or memory._

That ought to teach that txtmstrjoe to check facts first...


----------



## GuardianOdin

hey guys...really off topic. Are any of you having problems connecting google after you type in the search bar? Half the links in my bookmarks work and the other half will not connect...IE my Gmail, Myspace and such


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
AM3 processors will support both DDR2 and DDR3 memory, *but not on the same motherboard*[/I]

That ought to teach that txtmstrjoe to check facts first...









Joe, does the above statement in bold mean that the AM3 processors won't support a motherboard running both DDR2 and DDR3 memory at the same time? Joe no worries, actually I was a little bit unsure on a few things as well.

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

No such problems on my end, G.O.

At least with the few searches I've done right now.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
hey guys...really off topic. Are any of you having problems connecting google after you type in the search bar? Half the links in my bookmarks work and the other half will not connect...IE my Gmail, Myspace and such

Guardian, it could be an issue with your ISP. Are you able to ping google and get an IP back? Could be a DNS issue.

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, does the above statement in bold mean that the AM3 processors won't support a motherboard running both DDR2 and DDR3 memory at the same time? Joe no worries, actually I was a little bit unsure on a few things as well.

Good luck









That's a good question, thlnk3r. I don't know the definitive answer myself, but if I were to hazard a guess, I'd say that there wouldn't be such a motherboard available for sale. I'm not aware of any motherboards that can run two different types of RAM simultaneously, either for Intel or for AMD.

I wouldn't mind being proved wrong with some real and solid information, though.


----------



## GuardianOdin

yep, I can ping like mad to any site I try. 100% across the board. It's just when I click a link the load bar gets about half way and stops. Think maybe I have some adware or virus?

*EDIT:* Freaking Trojans!!!!!!!!!!!....dang it


----------



## Blitz6804

There are Intel boards that can use DDR2 or DDR3. Not both at the same time as far as I know due to different voltage requirements.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
There are Intel boards that can use DDR2 or DDR3. Not both at the same time as far as I know due to different voltage requirements.

Like I said, different types of RAM, but *not simultaneously*.









EDIT: Nevermind. I didn't actually SAY that. My mistake, Blitz.


----------



## thlnk3r

Joe, I think there was a ECS board that allowed DDR2 and DDR3 memory. Dang I think I am tired just like you. My brain is shutting down









Guardian, so you are infected with a trojan/spyware ect?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I blame my CFX3200 for my incoherence.


----------



## Blitz6804

No mistake, you did actually say that there were no boards that can run them simultaneously. I was affirming this statement.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Joe, I think there was a ECS board that allowed DDR2 and DDR3 memory. Dang I think I am tired just like you. My brain is shutting down









Guardian, so you are infected with a trojan/spyware ect?


yeah.......love it when family uses my rig


----------



## pioneerisloud

ALL THE JUDGES!:
We need to get together ASAP...as in before bed time. Preferrably in a real time chat program of some kind. We have things to discuss.

EVERYONE ELSE:
Take a good look at our 939 Stock Cooler contest. There has been an addition to the very first post, made by yours truly. Might want to go check it out (cough prize cough).


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Like I said, different types of RAM, but *not simultaneously*.









EDIT: *Nevermind. I didn't actually SAY that. My mistake, Blitz*.









Yes you did









Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
That's a good question, thlnk3r. I don't know the definitive answer myself, but if I were to hazard a guess, I'd say that there wouldn't be such a motherboard available for sale. *I'm not aware of any motherboards that can run two different types of RAM simultaneously, either for Intel or for AMD*.

I wouldn't mind being proved wrong with some real and solid information, though.










Edit: I see that was already pointed out lol. I just didn't want to miss out on an opportunity to mess with you


----------



## StormX2

iceman, says your 3d06 score was deleted or made private =(


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:


Originally Posted by *StormX2* 
iceman, says your 3d06 score was deleted or made private =(

Aw man...it got deleted. Oh well, I've been meaning to run it again with my Cat 8.8's anyway. I guess now is as good a time as any


----------



## StormX2

what machine were you running for that score?


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:


Originally Posted by *StormX2* 
what machine were you running for that score?

My current sig setup with My CPU running @ 3.6GHz

I've since downclocked the CPU from 3.6GHz to 3.4GHz cause it's hot here during the summer. In a few weeks I'll put it back to 3.6 (maybe 3.8 if I'm feeling froggy). I'm also hoping to get an HD 4850 soon as well.

BTW here is my current score. It's a little lower but like I said the previous one was run at 3.6GHz on the CPU

Edit: My froggy comment was *not* referring to our esteemed member of the same name btw lol.


----------



## Hueristic

I'd also like to join


----------



## Blitz6804

Just post for us a CPU-Z validation of some flavor and you will be added post-haste Hueristic. Advanced welcome to the club!


----------



## StormX2

yay !

err iceman, that link did not relly bring me anywhere ^^


----------



## Iceman0803

You should see the page shown below. It works for me.









You have to click on the View more link for more detailed info btw.


----------



## identitycrisis

Here is a screenshot that I do, indeed own a S939, its an old pick, ill get an update once i get windows loaded on the machine im going to join the ocing contest on!
Everest reads it as a 3800+ but its a 3000+ Ill get a better screeny ASAP!


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Just post for us a CPU-Z validation of some flavor and you will be added post-haste Hueristic. Advanced welcome to the club!










good enough?


----------



## Blitz6804

Indeed to both of you. I am adding you to the offsite roster; Joe will get you on the onsite when he gets home from work.

WELCOME ABOARD!


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Indeed to both of you. I am adding you to the offsite roster; Joe will get you on the onsite when he gets home from work.

WELCOME ABOARD!












I won't be ale to participate too much till I get my 2 new folder up and running tweaked. Got a ATX-AT PS modded lat night and look good jut gotta build a case for the 2 boards now. Damn forgot to change out keyboard when I pulled the 2nd Vid card Grrrr (B+S don't work without mashing the kybd)!


----------



## GuardianOdin

hey guys, I haven't forgotten about the contest. I am currently trying to rid my PC of Virtumonde Trojan and it's proving to be a pain. It's a nasty little bug. Wanna guess when my PC got it from???!!!!!!?????!!!

MYSPACE!!!!!!!!!! more specifically the sites that people use to make their page all pretty like. I can thank my sister for this


----------



## decompiled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


hey guys, I haven't forgotten about the contest. I am currently trying to rid my PC of Virtumonde Trojan and it's proving to be a pain. It's a nasty little bug. Wanna guess when my PC got it from???!!!!!!?????!!!

MYSPACE!!!!!!!!!! more specifically the sites that people use to make their page all pretty like. I can thank my sister for this



Check out vundofix


----------



## Blitz6804

Vundos are the worst things to try to get rid of. If you cannot find it, let me know; I'll email you a copy of the program decompiled suggested.


----------



## thlnk3r

Welcome to the club Hueristic









Guardian, I hope you get rid of that nasty trojan. I think it's time to setup a domain controller and start setting policies using active directory. This way your sister is limited to what she can do. Especially if this is a family computer...you could really lock it down









Good luck buddy!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decompiled*


Check out vundofix


got it. I had to "end process" to connect to the net to download it. I am also running pc doctor "simply to find the reg files" and ad-aware. Search and Destroy did a great job of locating the files but was unsuccessful at deleting them.

Right now I am glad that I have keys to run a few of these apps. It pay to help fix peoples computers. I cleaned and installed a few anti-virus programs for my Boss and in return I asked that he get me a subscription to them. I never like running these when I just use PC by myself, but now that I let family on line....I think I will keep these installed


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


got it. I had to "end process" to connect to the net to download it. I am also running pc doctor "simply to find the reg files" and ad-aware. Search and Destroy did a great job of locating the files but was unsuccessful at deleting them.

Right now I am glad that I have keys to run a few of these apps. It pay to help fix peoples computers. I cleaned and installed a few anti-virus programs for my Boss and in return I asked that he get me a subscription to them. I never like running these when I just use PC by myself, but now that I let family on line....I think I will keep these installed










Get Unlocker to delete undeletable files. G/L


----------



## StormX2

i dont evne remember the last time I even used anti virus =(

wich probobly means my comptuer is completely overrun with spyware and junk.

I will rpboboly be formating soon and freshly installing XP pro again so I can happily play warhammer online =)~

Dont think i will attempt to Raid 0 on my 2x250 seagates. I am sure i can find a Floppy drive, but I dont think it will be worth the hassle ^^


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Welcome to the club Hueristic







...


Thx man.







First thing I have to do is pull my cpu and re-check it. I could swear it is an X2 but it only shows up as a single core. Prob the MB. And I gotta change out this :swearing: kybd!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Thx man.







First thing I have to do is pull my cpu and re-check it. I could swear it is an X2 but it only shows up as a single core. Prob the MB. And I gotta change out this :swearing: kybd!


Hueristic, make sure under Device Manager > Computer that ACPI Multiprocessor PC is listed.

Good luck


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Hueristic, make sure under Device Manager > Computer that ACPI Multiprocessor PC is listed.

Good luck










Had uni. just changed it. rebooting now. might not hear from me for awhile!


----------



## Blitz6804

Athlon64 3200+? Thats a single core. See: CG, D0, E3, E4, and E6.

This is every single Skt939 chip bearing the "3200+" designation.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Had uni. just changed it. rebooting now. might not hear from me for awhile!










Hueristic, when you get back into Windows please verify that the changes in your Device Manager have been made and also check your task manager to see if the second core showed up.

Good luck









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Athlon64 3200+? Thats a single core. See: CG, D0, E3, E4, and E6.

This is every single Skt939 chip bearing the "3200+" designation.


Blitz, thank you for clarifying. I should have looked more carefully at his sig rig


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Athlon64 3200+? Thats a single core. See: CG, D0, E3, E4, and E6.

This is every single Skt939 chip bearing the "3200+" designation.


When I firt got it with the mobo It didn't have a H. I took the thing apart and cleaned everything (it had been sitting in the back of a pickup truck for 6 month) And I looked up the number and yes there are 3200+ X2.

Not to mention i has the X2 on it just like your avatar. But I really think the mobo doesn't support it.
http://www.asrockamerica.com/Products/939DSATA2.htm

BBL


----------



## Blitz6804

Slowest X2 I am aware of is the 3600+ for AM2. The slowest for 939 is the 3800+.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Slowest X2 I am aware of is the 3600+ for AM2. The slowest for 939 is the 3800+.


Blitz, there is in fact a 3600+ X2 for S939.

Hueristic, as blitz stated above your 3200+ is DH-E6 (revision 6). That is a single core. The JH-E6's were Toldedo cores (dual core)...but at least you know what to look for in the device manager next time this does happen on a dual core processor









Good luck


----------



## StormX2

yes the 3800 was the lowest 939 Dual core released in the X2 series.

some single core 3700's were rumored to be dual Core Toledo's with a "potentially" unlockable second core


----------



## Blitz6804

Thlnk3r, I do not see it.

Well... Newegg had it. It looks like a crippled 3800+.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Thlnk3r, I do not see it.

Well... Newegg had it. It looks like a crippled 3800+.


Blitz, I have one at home









The only difference is a lower TDP and smaller cache. The clock frequency is the same as the 3800+.

Good luck


----------



## Hueristic

no kyboard:swearing:


----------



## txtmstrjoe

There is, indeed, an X2 3600+. thlnk3r has one, I have one. In fact, we were supposed to have an OCing duel with ours, but circumstances have permanently derailed that plan. In due time, said chip will belong to pioneerisloud, in fact. And, to echo thlnk3r, it does indeed have half the L2 cache as the X2 3800+, but runs at the same clock speed. It is available only as a (crippled) Manchester (as opposed to the X2 3800+, which is available as a healthy Manchester or as a crippled Toledo with half its L2 cache disabled).


----------



## Hueristic

Well got a working keyboard. Put back the Uni driver. Weird that the Multi driver worked fine with no errors. Maybe the hyper threading tricked it? Damn thing didn't want to go back to the uni.

I still remember seeing the "X2" on the chip so I'll have to rip the system apart. but not now I've got folding rig to get going first. That was the reason I upgraded from the 2800+. Only traded 2 bottles of Autumn Olive wine for board/CPU so no biggie anyway.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Well got a working keyboard. Put back the Uni driver. Weird that the Multi driver worked fine with no errors. Maybe the hyper threading tricked it? Damn thing didn't want to go back to the uni.

I still remember seeing the "X2" on the chip so I'll have to rip the system apart. but not now I've got folding rig to get going first. That was the reason I upgraded from the 2800+. Only traded 2 bottles of Autumn Olive wine for board/CPU so no biggie anyway.

Hueristic, I believe hyperthreading was an Intel only feature.

Let us know when you find out about the 3200+. Write down the stepping as well









Good luck


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Hueristic, I believe hyperthreading was an Intel only feature.

Let us know when you find out about the 3200+. Write down the stepping as well









Good luck









Lol funny I thought AMD incorporated it also. I just can't keep up with the times these days.


----------



## Blitz6804

Hyper transport perhaps?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Hyper transport perhaps?


----------



## billbartuska

Hi......
Validated


----------



## Blitz6804

Welcome aboard billbartuska, you are now on the offsite roster. Joe will add you to the onsite tonight.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Nope. I've already added today's new additions: identitycrisis, Heuristic, and billbartuska.









Welcome, all! I hope you find our Club entertaining, informative, and enjoyable.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Sorry for the double post, but for anyone curious about RAM timings, what they do, and hopefully to get some idea on how to set your up, here is a good source of info.

Hope that helps!


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Nope. I've already added today's new additions: identitycrisis, *Hueristic*, and billbartuska.









Welcome, all! I hope you find our Club entertaining, informative, and enjoyable.

































I before E except after C but U before E when referring to me.


----------



## thlnk3r

Welcome billbartuska to the club


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
























I before E except after C but U before E when referring to me.










Oopsies.









Ack! I STILL misspelled your name on the roster.









I am therefore txtmstrd'oh!







for the rest of the day...


----------



## Blitz6804

My dirty little secret to success:

Click
Mouse over
Shift+click
Ctrl+C
Alt+tab
Ctrl+V


----------



## boonie2

update - with some painstaking tweeking got my opty 175 up to 3.1














cpuz picture in my profile ..... still cant get this vista business to take screenshots


----------



## Blitz6804

Why not get the CVF and submit it to the website? Then you can link anyone who wants it!

Great OC boons.

(Your 175 is a transformer... one sixty-fives in disguise.)


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Oopsies.









Ack! I STILL misspelled your name on the roster.









I am therefore txtmstrd'oh!







for the rest of the day...


----------



## identitycrisis

Thanks for letting me into the club!!!!!! just as an FYI, i have an athlon 3000+, I dont know why everest read it as a 3800+, I just want to make that clear before I enter the overclocking contest!!!

Im going to get the rig going and get a new screeny!

~Rich


----------



## Blitz6804

I read you right. Joe missed. Really is "txtmstrd'oh" tonight it seems.

As to WHY it showed like that: you had an older version of CPU-ID. Namely, Everest 3.0 when the most-modern is 4.5. Not only did these old versions misname cores (calling Denmarks Toledos for example) but they also had a tendency to name the product based on the speed.


----------



## identitycrisis

so... in the process of getting my rig up and running to get this context going... I managed to fry a harddrive
120gb seagte cooked because it was sitting on the bottom of my case, and i have these slots where the tooless drive pieces are, and it contacted something and i fried some chip on the bottom of the drive.. now im stuck with my stupid 200gb maxtor









but ill be under way soon, windows should only take like an hour or so!


----------



## identitycrisis

here is my updated cpuz screen taken about an hour ago for my entance into the 939 appreciation club










on another note, i finally got occt to pass a minute and 4 seconds.... but im down to 275mhz fsb, no winner, but ill stick it out in the name of fun!


----------



## boonie2

Welcome


----------



## huntman21014

Hey I have an athlon 64 4000+ at 3ghz right now


----------



## boonie2

got cpuz verification? what part of maryland are you in?


----------



## Blitz6804

As Boonie said, we need a CPU-Z validation of some flavor and you are in the club.

Knowing where in Maryland you are is not a requirement but feel free to answer him if you wish. *Chuckles*


----------



## boonie2

Just curious because i used to live in Maryland , thats all def. not a requirement to tell anyone where you live tho


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *identitycrisis* 
here is my updated cpuz screen taken about an hour ago for my entance into the 939 appreciation club

on another note, i finally got occt to pass a minute and 4 seconds.... but im down to 275mhz fsb, no winner, but ill stick it out in the name of fun!

Identitycrisis, welcome to the club









Are for sure that Seagate drive has "failed"? Have you tried for a more stable overclock?

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

He melted his HDD.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *identitycrisis* 
the cause for panic when i 1st started this journey tonight, dead hdd


----------



## nategr8ns

that takes some high heat


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
He melted his HDD.

Blitz, did I miss that post with the image of the HD?

Looks like Identity got short and toasted the controller board. That easily can be fixed. If you can find the same hard drive(a failed/damaged drive that obviously is not being used and has a undamaged controller board), same model ect then you can just swap the boards. A set of torque screwdrivers and some patience and you'll have it all done. Since the firmware is different on some drives, make sure to grab the same identical drive.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

No thlnks. I did a typical lawyer trick of dirty pool and cross-referenced elsewhere. (See the contest thread his quote linkbacks to.)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
No thlnks. I did a typical lawyer trick of dirty pool and cross-referenced elsewhere. (See the contest thread his quote linkbacks to.)

Blitz, thanks. Must of been still half asleep to miss it


----------



## identitycrisis

haha, yeah it was sitting on the bottom of my case, and i have tabs for the tooless removal of the cdrom drives, and it shorte dout immediately, thats what i get for not putting it in the cage


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well guys, we're working on getting Froggy's rig up and overclocked again. She was running all bone stock because her chipset cooler died







. I replaced that and used A.S. Ceramique as grease. We also applied a heatsink to her onboard sound chip (Creative Audigy 2).....because well....why not?

I also reapplied her Big Typhoon. I guess we were mounting it wrong before (screws going DOWN threw the board and INTO the backplate). We're now bolting UP through the motherboard, and using nuts to hold it in place...both at the motherboard, and on top of the heatsink. The temps didn't really get any better...but its TONS easier to remount if needed, and we don't bend any fins in the process







.

We may or may not need to buy a new cooler for her







. This particular Big Typhoon just doesn't seem to do the trick (may be broken perhaps???).

Anyways, I'll have HER update her progress with the cooler







.


----------



## thlnk3r

Pioneer, good luck with getting her rig OC'ed


----------



## boonie2

G/l Froggy


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pioneer, good luck with getting her rig OC'ed











Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


G/l Froggy


Well unfortunately....froggy's rig took a turn for the worse







. I believe her motherboard to be dead.

The stock chipset cooler had died roughly 2 months ago. It had been making noise since we got it. So I finally got around to having the money to buy her a new cooler for it. I installed it all up yesterday. I got her Big Typhoon mounted properly (temps were still insane though). Everything was going smooth.

She was immediately clocked up at 2.8GHz...running OCCT just fine for 5 hours.

So we turned it off (OCCT), so she could join COD4 with us. No problems. She kept having random program crashes though....and the display driver kept not responding, so on, and so forth.

So said fine...restarted to check the OC. Everything LOOKED like it should have been stable. Her CPU can do 2.80GHz EASILY stable. The RAM was at 233MHz 3-3-3-8-2T (and its DDR500 with tighter timings). No problems at all.

So we rebooted..............

......................
...................
...............
Nothing!!! It just flashes the screen black, and reboots (it passes POST and that's it). So we go back down to stock speeds and timings and voltages. Still a no go.

So at this point, her computer won't even boot into Windows. I've pulled the RAM and GPU and replaced both. And PSU as well. None of those were the culprit. I ran Seatools on the HDD....that passed with no problems.

Oddly enough though....she can boot into Ubuntu???? Just fine, with no issues (live CD though).

So at this point I'm really confused as to what her problem REALLY is.

I do know this though:
I think me and her BOTH may be planning a move to a newer socket in the possible near future (depending on funds)







.

If I have my way with it.....my personal sig rig will be KEPT (motherboard RMA'd though because it hasn't functioned properly since day one). I want to use my rig as our guest gamer / game server rig. Its an Opteron (server chip)...so it ought to handle that with a breeze.

I want to use HER rig (if its still functional), as our other HTPC build and put another HD3450 into it. That way we have two absolutely KILLER HTPC builds.

However that would cost us nearly $2000 total to do all the upgrades (total new builds including monitors).

So ugh! Don't really know what to do! All I know is she's got a downed computer, and my poor GPU has been SCREAMING for a higher res to play with.

/rant...and I appologize for being long winded. ALOT has happened these last few days....and I just needed SOMEWHERE to put all this down at.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Nothing!!! It just flashes the screen black, and reboots (it passes POST and that's it). So we go back down to stock speeds and timings and voltages. Still a no go.

So at this point, her computer won't even boot into Windows. I've pulled the RAM and GPU and replaced both. And PSU as well. None of those were the culprit. I ran Seatools on the HDD....that passed with no problems.

Oddly enough though....she can boot into Ubuntu???? Just fine, with no issues (live CD though).


Pioneer, sorry to hear your having difficulties with her motherboard. Does the machine (at stock settings) boot to the Windows XP installation setup via CD? Almost sounds like the previous overclock at 2.8Ghz was unstable and might of corrupted your Windows install.

Let us know

Good luck


----------



## identitycrisis

sorry to hear about that mobo, I know i just joined the s939 club, but im thinkin of selling off LOTS of spare stuff, especially my 939 rig, my apartment is too full of crap i could turn into money for my new receiver/mountain bike etc... so i have my epox board I could let go..


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah Pioneer... to me, it sounds like a roasted OS. The fact that you can boot to the optical drive seems to suggest this. (Can you access the HDD from Ubuntu Live?)


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well I suppose our next step is to ATTEMPT a repair install. If that works out, we'll need to backup all her crap and do a fresh install, and do the OC right.


----------



## GuardianOdin

hey guys. I need a socket 939 *dual core *for my ladies rig. *It does NOT have to be awesome*. I will have $40 total to spend this coming Friday. I have PayPal as well to make things easy. I have finally been able to get it all together, but I was stuck using my Athlon 3500+ Venice anyway let me know. Thanks fella's


----------



## boonie2

I know this is off topic but maybe I can slip it in here really fast , as I trust everyones opinions here , can one of you guys recomend a good laptop for close to $500 with wireless capabilities , not familier at all with whats out there as far as laptops .... thanks


----------



## nategr8ns

I personally have been looking at the EEE PCs (by ASUS), but to some their incredibly low resolution and low memory+drive space may be an issue.


----------



## dskina

Look into the MSI Wind.


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


hey guys. I need a socket 939 *dual core *for my ladies rig. *It does NOT have to be awesome*. I will have $40 total to spend this coming Friday. I have PayPal as well to make things easy. I have finally been able to get it all together, but I was stuck using my Athlon 3500+ Venice anyway let me know. Thanks fella's


Unfortunately the only dual core I have is my Opty 170. Does it have to be a dual core? I ask because I have a Venice 3000+ and an FX-55 San Diego core.


----------



## pioneerisloud

MY PARTS ARRIVED!

Okay, so nothing EXACTLY 939 specific, but here's what all just arrived for me:

Apevia X-Master Case (HTPC case, silver and black)
Raidmax Aries Case (for my 24/7 game server...been down because no case)
80GB W.D. SATA HDD
Samsung 22x SATA DVDRW (black)
2x IDE Cables (round / silver) (for game server build)
2x Leadtek Digital Tuners (PCI) + remotes
Sapphire HD3450 PCIe (for my 939 HTPC build)
3.5" USB 2.0 addition for front of my first modded case (can be seen in sig)
Logitech Cheapo Keyboard / Mouse Set (game server)
Rosewill Cheapo Mouse (ONE of the TV builds)

And 4x 120mm blue LED (I believe...might be red???) fans.

I'm excited! Finally all my rigs will be completed. Granted 2 are currently down, but they may end up functional. They just need parts RMA'd and / or a fresh OS installed.

Keep your eyes open for my finished 939 HTPC build thread. I'll link it here, and of course show off all the pretty pictures in here as well.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Iceman0803* 
Unfortunately the only dual core I have is my Opty 170. Does it have to be a dual core? I ask because I have a Venice 3000+ and an FX-55 San Diego core.

yeah it's got to be dual core. My Althon 64 3500+ is in it right now. She wants to do a bit of gaming with COD4 and I know that single core is going to slow her down.


----------



## thlnk3r

Pioneer, we look forward to your HTPC build. Please include pictures when your done


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Darn. I wish I had another low-priced dual-core available for you. My last one is spoken for.









Good luck in your quest, though, G.O. May the gods smile upon your fortune.


----------



## Anqt31

Hey G.O. I have a Opty 165... pm me about it. I'll cut a super deal for you.

@ Everyone else ... this is off the 939 topic, but I hit 4.1Ghz @ 1.300V with my Q6600!!!... (Alright, now I'll try to tie it to thread's topic of S939) that is 800Mhz higher than my x2 4200+ ever allowed me to go.


----------



## Blitz6804

And 3.3 GHz with any 939-K8 is pretty darn impressive!


----------



## Fear_Of_Dreams

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


And 3.3 GHz with any 939-K8 is pretty darn impressive!


Beyond impressive thats astounding! I could only get my Manchester up to 2.9ghz but it was so unstable. I tried sooo hard just to get it to run 3GHz and i never could.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


And 3.3 GHz with any 939-K8 is pretty darn impressive!


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


Hey G.O. I have a Opty 165... pm me about it. I'll cut a super deal for you.

@ Everyone else ... this is off the 939 topic, but I hit 4.1Ghz @ 1.300V with my Q6600!!!... (Alright, now I'll try to tie it to thread's topic of S939) that is 800Mhz higher than my x2 4200+ ever allowed me to go.


grats on the q6600. water or air?


----------



## DiGi-C

Hey all I'm new to the site.

Currently I'm running a 3700+ @ 2.5GHz with stock cooler, can get it upto 2.75/2.8 but becomes unstable for anytyhing else than showing teh desktop lol

Heres the CPU Validator http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=413306

Switching to Intel very soon though, sad to replace it...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Please welcome our newest member, DiGi-C.









I have added you to our on-site roster. Blitz will add you to our snazzy off-site roster as soon as he is able.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DiGi-C* 
Hey all I'm new to the site.

Currently I'm running a 3700+ @ 2.5GHz with stock cooler, can get it upto 2.75/2.8 but becomes unstable for anytyhing else than showing teh desktop lol

Heres the CPU Validator http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=413306

Digi-c, welcome to the club









Have you tried relaxing your memory sub-timings to see if that helps? How much Vcore did you put through that San Diego core?

Good luck


----------



## AMOCO

so ,guy's on my sig rig i noticed my nb cooler was pretty warm to touch,u think i need a better nb cooler?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AMOCO* 
so ,guy's on my sig rig i noticed my nb cooler was pretty warm to touch,u think i need a better nb cooler?

Amoco, what is the BIOS reporting in terms of temperature? Have you checked using any applications such as Everest or Speedfan? Is your NB cooler passively cooled?

In terms of comparison, my chipset idles around 37C with a 26C ambient.

Good luck


----------



## AMOCO

let me check temps real quick,& its the nb cooler that came with the mobo.


----------



## AMOCO

in sandra it say's board temp is 36c & cpu 41c,in hwmonitor reading are TMPIN0 39C,TMPIN1 36C,CPU temps are #0 35c,#1 36c. & in the BIOS cpu temps are 44c,mobo temp is 37c.


----------



## Blitz6804

Joe beating me to a new member?!

*WHAT A WORLD! WHAT A WORLD!*

You are now added DiGi-C; welcome aboard!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AMOCO* 
in sandra it say's board temp is 36c & cpu 41c,in hwmonitor reading are TMPIN0 39C,TMPIN1 36C,CPU temps are #0 35c,#1 36c. & in the BIOS cpu temps are 44c,mobo temp is 37c.

Amoco, 36C idle is not bad at all especially for a passively cooled cooler. What kind of airflow do you have in your case?

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AMOCO* 
in sandra it say's board temp is 36c & cpu 41c,in hwmonitor reading are TMPIN0 39C,TMPIN1 36C,CPU temps are #0 35c,#1 36c. & in the BIOS cpu temps are 44c,mobo temp is 37c.

Those board temperatures look good, actually. Would you happen to know what your ambient temperature is?

Just to compare, with ambient temperatures in the low-30s degrees C, my boards tend to have chipset temperature reports in the low-to-mid 40s degrees C.


----------



## AMOCO

well i would have to say ambient temps about 30c or there abouts.


----------



## Blitz6804

AMOCO: those temps are fine.

DiGi-C: I think your RAM might be the issue. You presently have 1x1024 MB PC 2100 and 2x512 MB PC 3200. Not only does mixed densities give you a problem, but 939-K8s dislike having three DIMMs populated. (2 is the way to go; 4 is possible.) Further, the fact that some of the RAM is PC 2100 (DDR 266) is also killing you. Replacing all your RAM with 2x1024 MB PC 2700 or 2x1024 MB PC 3200 will permit much higher clocks. Replacing removing the 1x1024 MB PC 2100 could improve things, but you may notice a more sluggish system due to less RAM. If you did that, perhaps get another 2x512 MB and run it as 4x1024 MB. The overclockability is less than 2x1024 MB PC 3200 (DDR 400) but should do better than you have now.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AMOCO* 
well i would have to say ambient temps about 30c or there abouts.

Amoco, if that is the case then I would certainly not worry about your chipset temperatures.

Good luck


----------



## AMOCO

thank you guys & nice chatting with u.


----------



## Anqt31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
grats on the q6600. water or air?

that was on air with a lapped true


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Anqt31* 
Hey G.O. I have a Opty 165... pm me about it. I'll cut a super deal for you.

@ Everyone else ... this is off the 939 topic, but I hit 4.1Ghz @ 1.300V with my Q6600!!!... (Alright, now I'll try to tie it to thread's topic of S939) that is 800Mhz higher than my x2 4200+ ever allowed me to go.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Anqt31* 
that was on air with a lapped true

wow thats nice man! gj what was the vid ?


----------



## Blitz6804

Iandroo, Anqt31... please take this to an Intel thread or to PM; it really is not at all pertinent to Skt939. (In fact, it is arguable that this is as far from 939 as you can get.)

As I sit here reading my evidence book and drinking my six pack, I cannot help but be reminded of:

  
 



  



 
 )


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


Hey G.O. I have a Opty 165... pm me about it. I'll cut a super deal for you.

@ Everyone else ... this is off the 939 topic, but I hit 4.1Ghz @ 1.300V with my Q6600!!!... (Alright, now I'll try to tie it to thread's topic of S939) that is 800Mhz higher than my x2 4200+ ever allowed me to go.


PM'ed









well had to reformat. My rig has needed it for awhile and getting a Trojan was a good enough excuse to get the ball rolling.I love a fresh install....always boots up fast. I can't believe how fast I have become installing windows







Aside from my rig, I install windows atleast once a week sometimes up 4-5 times.


----------



## nategr8ns

Blitz, I called Blitz 182 in that second video, but the wrong song!
I forget the song they used, but it's not the song called "All the [Strange?] Things".


----------



## identitycrisis

I want my Opty back









On another note, after the maiden ride on my Specialized Hardrock bike, ill be doing some OCing for the contest tonight...

And a new item was brought to my attention in the OCing contest thread, I guess I was never aware of Vdroop... would this affect me being able to boot higher as well? or just failing OCCT once inside windws?

I would like to get this answered before I get underway again...


----------



## Xyro TR1

Random: My Opty's now in use again! I'm so happy!! (The gameserver is built and online. I've just got to get the DynDNS stuff inputted, and everything will be golden!)


----------



## Blitz6804

nategr8ns: _All the Small Things_ from Enema of the State.

identitycrisis: Vdroop does not usually affect the ability to POST. What causes Vdroop is as you stress the computer more (as in OCCT) it needs to output more watts to keep voltage constant. Vdroop occurs when your motherboard cannot keep up with the need, and thus, voltage drops or droops. This is more common in cheaper or older motherboards, which is why my Gigabyte and Asus were plagued with it, but my Abit was not.


----------



## identitycrisis

interesting, so if i can get my rig to boot closer to 290mhz... i just need to up the voltage to compensate for the vdroop... my temps on my 3000+ were well within the safe zone...


----------



## thlnk3r

Perhaps this question needs to be asked in the Intel section but isn't "vdroop" an Intel term? I thought vdroop had nothing to do with AMD equipment?


----------



## Blitz6804

It is far more prevalent on Intel. However, I can swear personal evidence that it has occurred to me on AMD. My Gigabyte would lose up to 25 mV between idle and 100% load.


----------



## identitycrisis

MY OCCT Graph suggests the same thing... i lose .03v when im on full load.. i wonder if it was enough to make me fail....


----------



## Blitz6804

It certainly is a possibility. If your temps permit it, give it another 25 mV (0.025 V) in the BIOS.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
It is far more prevalent on Intel. However, I can swear personal evidence that it has occurred to me on AMD. My Gigabyte would lose up to 25 mV between idle and 100% load.

this is true with the DFI Expert. You can see it happen if your patient enough during an OCCT run. When ever the volts jumped up and down the test would fail like clock work shortly after.


----------



## Blitz6804

Which is why motherboards today use far more phases than in the past: more consistent power.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Aside from my rig, I install windows atleast once a week sometimes up 4-5 times.


----------



## Hueristic

To see if the vdroop is affecting your overclock you can switch out to a older low wattage vid card and it should not draw as much off the mb. also remove unneeded cards and disable everything that uses power in the bios. EX. Sound/lan.


----------



## Blitz6804

Hueristic, that would be indicative of an insufficient power supply. My GA-K8NSC-939 nForce 3 250 GB would droop whether I had a Radeon 9700 AGP or a HD 3850 AGP installed.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

VDroop is not manufacturer-specific (AMD or Intel), as far as I'm aware. If I'm understanding things correctly, it's actually a strategy applied by the motherboard designed to protect against the effects of (ostensibly accidental) massive over-voltage.

Here is a neat (yet very technical) discourse on VDroop. Though it may seem to be Intel-specific, my understanding is that the same principles apply to AMDs as well.

Hope this helps.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Hueristic, that would be indicative of an insufficient power supply. My GA-K8NSC-939 nForce 3 250 GB would droop whether I had a Radeon 9700 AGP or a HD 3850 AGP installed.

Not nessesarily, the onboard chips (Lan/SB) are mb specific. But I see what you mean. But I have to say it will effect the droop no matter what PS you use. If you wanna go nutz then you can replace the VRM and Caps.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
VDroop is not manufacturer-specific (AMD or Intel), as far as I'm aware. If I'm understanding things correctly, it's actually a strategy applied by the motherboard designed to protect against the effects of (ostensibly accidental) massive over-voltage.

Here is a neat (yet very technical) discourse on VDroop. Though it may seem to be Intel-specific, my understanding is that the same principles apply to AMDs as well.

Hope this helps.









Good link. I'll read it later. I've worked for 3 semiconductor manufacturers and we have 8 VRm's on Mars







. So I have a idea of what I'm talking about.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


However, I can swear personal evidence that it has occurred to me on AMD. My Gigabyte would lose up to 25 mV between idle and 100% load.


Blitz, I think the problem that you and few others are running into is per the boards manufacturing design. It could be poor regulator circuitry or even an insufficient PSU. Software monitoring is not even close to giving you real numbers. You need equipment such as a oscilliscope and a volt meter to see any real results.

Good luck


----------



## GuardianOdin

I just wet my finger tips...and see what happens


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


...
Here is a neat (yet very technical) discourse on VDroop.


OK just checked it out and it's all pretty much elementary nothing new there. Any circuit is going to have a vdroop(voltage drop) when a load is placed on it. The trick is the quickness in which the circuit can compensate for not only the drop but for when the load is released. This is exceptionally important as to not overload the components. This is why Chips are designed to operate withing specific tolerances.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


OK just checked it out and it's all pretty much elementary nothing new there. Any circuit is going to have a vdroop(voltage drop) when a load is placed on it. The trick is the quickness in which the circuit can compensate for not only the drop but for when the load is released. This is exceptionally important as to not overload the components. This is why Chips are designed to operate withing specific tolerances.


A very good summation.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, I think the problem that you and few others are running into is per the boards manufacturing design. It could be poor regulator circuitry or even an insufficient PSU. Software monitoring is not even close to giving you real numbers. You need equipment such as a oscilliscope and a volt meter to see any real results.

Good luck










Surely, a voltage droop is merely indicative, and not dispositive, of a possible circuitry issue. In my particular case, I can disprove the need of a larger power supply, for switching boards has rid me of the problem. Obviously yes, an oscilloscope would be superior to the on-board sensors in terms of accuracy, but for the relative measures to each other, I would think it matters little.


----------



## DiGi-C

Thanks for all the welcomes, its not everyday you find a computing forum as friendly as this to new comers









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


AMOCO: those temps are fine.

DiGi-C: I think your RAM might be the issue. You presently have 1x1024 MB PC 2100 and 2x512 MB PC 3200. Not only does mixed densities give you a problem, but 939-K8s dislike having three DIMMs populated. (2 is the way to go; 4 is possible.) Further, the fact that some of the RAM is PC 2100 (DDR 266) is also killing you. Replacing all your RAM with 2x1024 MB PC 2700 or 2x1024 MB PC 3200 will permit much higher clocks. Replacing removing the 1x1024 MB PC 2100 could improve things, but you may notice a more sluggish system due to less RAM. If you did that, perhaps get another 2x512 MB and run it as 4x1024 MB. The overclockability is less than 2x1024 MB PC 3200 (DDR 400) but should do better than you have now.


Yeah thats spot on more or less, but the stick thats showing up as 1024MB to you is actually a 2048MB stick and the 2 PC3200 sticks are actually PC2100 on the sticker & in HWinfo :S its been screwy with what it shows as since day one but it seems to work ok.

Messing with sticks in at the moment has been a pretty big fail, most settings dont go too well with them and because im a relative n00b to OC I just set it to auto and it works out pretty well somehow lol

Ah well only 2 days and I'll be building my new rig


----------



## Blitz6804

A 2048 MB unbuffered RAM DIMM? VERY rare. Further, the NF4 chipset does not support that large of density, which explains why it acts "screwy."


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Surely, a voltage droop is merely indicative, and not dispositive, of a possible circuitry issue. In my particular case, I can disprove the need of a larger power supply, for switching boards has rid me of the problem. Obviously yes, an oscilloscope would be superior to the on-board sensors in terms of accuracy, but for the relative measures to each other, I would think it matters little.


Blitz, I wasn't necessarily saying you needed a larger PSU. Perhaps your PSU is of poor quality and that is causing the rumored "vdroop"? Who knows. That's why I suggested the digital volt meter and oscilloscope









Good luck


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


A very good summation.


















needed to be said.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DiGi-C*


Thanks for all the welcomes, its not everyday you find a computing forum as friendly as this to new comers










Give it time!


----------



## pioneerisloud

If there are any other 939'ers awake at this time, please feel free to shoot me an IM (same SN as here) on any messenger. I need the backup....I'm trying some crazy (or stupid) things with my rig ATM. Could use the emotional backup, lol.


----------



## thlnk3r

Pioneer, please follow up with us when your done testing your A8N32 and Opty 165









Good luck buddy


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pioneer, please follow up with us when your done testing your A8N32 and Opty 165









Good luck buddy


Oh of course! I'll be posting proof of stability if everything goes well.

However if my CURRENT settings pass....I will be attempting to tighten my RAM a little more. So we'll see. If this works though, I guess I don't have any need to send in my board for RMA.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Good luck, pio!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well I told you guys that pioneerisloud had another trick up his sleeve, didn't I? Check out my latest addition to the pioneerisloud LAN. Some of the parts are re-used of course. But about 80% of this build is new! I can't wait to see what happens with this one.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Well I told you guys that pioneerisloud had another trick up his sleeve, didn't I? Check out my latest addition to the pioneerisloud LAN.


Pioneer, the wire management in that case is superb! Excellent job









I did the same thing with my CM690 in regards to hiding the cables behind the motherboard tray. It's very effective.

Good luck


----------



## GuardianOdin

anyone seen Anqt31?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
anyone seen Anqt31?

Guardian, I saw him on a few days ago. According to his profile, he was on 1 day ago.

Good luck


----------



## ramenmeal

i had an 3700+ @2.2ghz, my bro is using it now. that thing trucks i'll tell you that. i put a 2900pro 1gb with it and was running CSS on 1680x1050, amazing how well it performed for such an old chip


----------



## nategr8ns

well, CSS isn't really a good game to prove performance, but yes, that's a good chip







.
My 3800+ (2.4GHz, but less cache IIRC) tackled CSS and TF2 fine







, along with crysis on high


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ramenmeal*


i had an 3700+ @2.2ghz, my bro is using it now. that thing trucks i'll tell you that. i put a 2900pro 1gb with it and was running CSS on 1680x1050, amazing how well it performed for such an old chip


Ramenmeal, now that you mention it my brother still plays all of his games with his old single core 3200+ at stock. It's coupled with Corsair DDR500 and a X850XT PE. He plays TF2, CSS, WoW all in 1280 x 1024. He never calls me to complain. These chips are still kicken


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


well, CSS isn't really a good game to prove performance, but yes, that's a good chip







.
My 3800+ (2.4GHz, but less cache IIRC) tackled CSS and TF2 fine







, along with crysis on high










And another core. The 3800+ Manny is dual core to the 3700+ Sandy's single core.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


this is true with the DFI Expert. You can see it happen if your patient enough during an OCCT run. When ever the volts jumped up and down the test would fail like clock work shortly after.


Ill vouch for that as well


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Ramenmeal, now that you mention it my brother still plays all of his games with his old single core 3200+ at stock. It's coupled with Corsair DDR500 and a X850XT PE. He plays TF2, CSS, WoW all in 1280 x 1024. He never calls me to complain. These chips are still kicken










LOL, you just described my system! Hah. I only had to upgrade to gpu2 fold.









I'm very happy with it. years of great performance.


----------



## Anqt31

@ GO, I'm still here... I've just been busy with AFROTC... drill and such, shoot me a PM


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
And another core. The 3800+ Manny is dual core to the 3700+ Sandy's single core.

Blitz, Counter-strike Source was designed originally for a single core processor so a dual core processor probably won't make a difference. Source has scalable multicore support but only for games like Team Fortress 2, Portal and EP2


----------



## Blitz6804

I understand that. I was just pointing out another difference of a 3800+ versus a 3700+ to nate. Cache was not the only difference.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


And another core. The 3800+ Manny is dual core to the 3700+ Sandy's single core.


My 3800+ was single core (I'm 100% positive).
edit: http://www.pcstats.com/articleview.cfm?articleID=1743

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anqt31*


@ GO, I'm still here... I've just been busy with AFROTC... drill and such, shoot me a PM


My cousin is in the Air Force and finished ROTC (rhymes with Yahtzee







) a few years ago.


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, I guess the old saying is true. If you use a computer properly, you learn something new every day.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Well, I guess the old saying is true. If you use a computer properly, you learn something new every day.


I thought I was useing it properly but I forget something old everyday!


----------



## Blitz6804

Hardy-har.

Anyone have an idea how long I should let ATITool Artifact Checker run to call a GPU OC stable? Is an hour sufficient?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Hardy-har.

Anyone have an idea how long I should let ATITool Artifact Checker run to call a GPU OC stable? Is an hour sufficient?


a few minutes after temp maxes out, is what I do.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Hardy-har.

Anyone have an idea how long I should let ATITool Artifact Checker run to call a GPU OC stable? Is an hour sufficient?


Blitz, here are few threads that might be of some assistance in regards to your question. I would also suggest checking out the ATI graphics card section and posting your question there as well.

http://www.overclock.net/graphics-ca...t-scanner.html
http://www.overclock.net/nvidia/2153...n-atitool.html
http://forums.techpowerup.com/showthread.php?p=928642

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Thanks Thinks. Imgrep.


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Hardy-har.

Anyone have an idea how long I should let ATITool Artifact Checker run to call a GPU OC stable? Is an hour sufficient?

I do 45 mins to an hour myself to be safe.


----------



## Blitz6804

Wow... everyone go on vacation or something? Over 48 hours with no posts is unheard of!


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Wow... everyone go on vacation or something? Over 48 hours with no posts is unheard of!


I was wondering the same thing.... Anyway I'll check back later. I'm off to install Linux (dual boot).


----------



## nategr8ns

I too was wondering...
Just finished writing a program for my calculator to simulate a bouncing ball. The physics are still kind of rough, but if I make it much more intricate than things will go much too slow (It's already pretty slow-paced).
I hope to make a tennis/ping-pong game out of it, using a side view as opposed to a top-down view (top-down is too simple







)


----------



## pioneerisloud

I was JUST thinking that this place was a wee bit too quiet last night!

Update:
Pioneer's rig is STILL not stable







. Back to clocks in sig (not stable by OCCT, but stable enough to not crash during 24/7 use). I guess its time to RMA my motherboard. Its the only thing I haven't tried yet.


----------



## Blitz6804

Lets see:

-You've tried a less aggressive clock? It is certainly stable at stock-clocks right?*
-You've checked a different CPU on that motherboard?
-You've tried that CPU on a different motherboard?
-You've tried different RAM?
-You've tried a different power supply?

*If is is not stable all-stock, then that is certainly indicative of a problem.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Lets see:

-You've tried a less aggressive clock? It is certainly stable at stock-clocks right?*
-You've checked a different CPU on that motherboard?
-You've tried that CPU on a different motherboard?
-You've tried different RAM?
-You've tried a different power supply?

*If is is not stable all-stock, then that is certainly indicative of a problem.


Alright, to recap:
It is NOT stable...even at stock clocks
The Manchester X2 wasn't stable
My Opty has yet to see another mobo (but I know its fine)
I've tried 4-5 sets of RAM +
I've already RMA'd my PSU once before (recently)
I've been having this problem SINCE I BUILT this rig. I think I may try a different form of stressing....ie: Orthos. It seems that OCCT is causing lock ups on ALL of our rigs for some odd reason. Ever since I switched to OCCT, I have yet to get a stable OC on ANY machine for 12+ hours. It either locks up or shuts off.

So I SUPPOSE I can try out Orthos next time I try for stable. Give it one last go!


----------



## Blitz6804

OCCT v2.0 is more stressful than its predecessor and Orthos priority 9 blend. It is more akin to Orthos priority 10 small FFTs. I do not see why it should give you a problem all-stock however. It runs fine on my laptop; perhaps when I have a chance, I will try it on my other laptop for fun. The fact that it is not stable even at stock seems to indicate to me a motherboard problem. You wouldn't happen to know what the northbridge temperature is up to do you?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


OCCT v2.0 is more stressful than its predecessor and Orthos priority 9 blend. It is more akin to Orthos priority 10 small FFTs. I do not see why it should give you a problem all-stock however. It runs fine on my laptop; perhaps when I have a chance, I will try it on my other laptop for fun. The fact that it is not stable even at stock seems to indicate to me a motherboard problem. You wouldn't happen to know what the northbridge temperature is up to do you?


Well OCCT causes hard lock ups and general "instability" problems on ALL of my rigs...EVEN AT STOCK CLOCKS. So I'm thinking about heading back to Orthos for my personal stressing.

And no, I cannot tell what my chipset temperatures are. There is just a MOTHERBOARD temperature sensor...and it says 45*C almost all the time, so take that with a grain of salt







.


----------



## Blitz6804

1) Have you tried the tried-and-true testing method of stick-my-finger-on-the-heatsink-and-see-if-I-get-pain?
2) Does OCCT pass for an hour? Does it pass for six? Does the problem only occur when you leave it running overnight?
3) Silly question, but have you tried re-downloading OCCT v2.0? Perhaps you got a bad download.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

That's a bit of a shame.







I've had exactly two of these A8N32-SLI Deluxes; the first one kicked the bucket last year, and ASUS treated me very very well and gave me a brand spanking new one when I RMAed my original. This second one has been nigh bulletproof (knocks on wood) up until now.

I hope your diagnosis is indeed correct, and that if you RMA with ASUS that they treat you as well as they have me.









Good luck, pio!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


1) Have you tried the tried-and-true testing method of stick-my-finger-on-the-heatsink-and-see-if-I-get-pain?
2) Does OCCT pass for an hour? Does it pass for six? Does the problem only occur when you leave it running overnight?
3) Silly question, but have you tried re-downloading OCCT v2.0? Perhaps you got a bad download.



There is no pain








OCCT passes for ROUGHLY 6.5 hours+...freezes anywhere between 6-12 hours.
Negative. I give up with OCCT for NOW. The program APPEARS to work just fine and it says nothing at all about being corrupt or any of that garbage. I'm thinking its just not the correct form of stressing 939 equipment (kinda like CoreTemp won't read Socket A).


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, doesn't Socket A not have a DTS nor a diode?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Well, doesn't Socket A not have a DTS nor a diode?


You get my point dangit! What I'm saying is that MAYBE...JUST MAYBE....OCCT v2.0 isn't designed to stress older hardware. Maybe that is in fact the reasoning behind the lock ups.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Here...let's test my theory!

Somebody else in the club (looks at joe) should run OCCT 2.0 (or whatever the newest one is)....and ATTEMPT to run it for 24 hours. Let's see what happens?


----------



## Blitz6804

Anyone want to test a hypothesis? Set up your rig to run OCCT v2.0 normal priority, 24-hour custom test time. If it makes it, it may not be a Skt939 issue.

If EVERYONE's rig cannot do it, I would agree to your proposition then.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Well, stability testing is unfortunately not a hard-and-fast science. It is unfortunately subjective, in that there are certainly variances in just how hard stability testing programs actually work your equipment.

I won't agree with your position that OCCT is "not the correct form of stressing 939 (sic) equipment;" I simply have seen no evidence to support that claim. I will say, however, that it is not the most stringent stability test to use. S&M, in my opinion, is hands-down the most torturous stress testing validation program that I know about. If your overclocked rig can pass this program at its maximum level, I would pronounce your machine to be as close to absolute stability as possible.

OCCT is very good in evaluating "basic" stability, even at its default setting. It stresses both your CPU and your RAM coupled together. If neither of these subsystems is set up properly, then the test will fail. Similarly, if there is a hardware fault implicating either the CPU or the RAM, then the test will fail.

Your case, though, is strange, in that, despite changing out both RAM and CPU on the same motherboard, the system still fails stress-testing. It may be that the motherboard may be at fault.

At any rate, hopefully the resolution is a good one for you.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Well, stability testing is unfortunately not a hard-and-fast science. It is unfortunately subjective, in that there are certainly variances in just how hard stability testing programs actually work your equipment.

I won't agree with your position that OCCT is "not the correct form of stressing 939 (sic) equipment;" I simply have seen no evidence to support that claim. I will say, however, that it is not the most stringent stability test to use. S&M, in my opinion, is hands-down the most torturous stress testing validation program that I know about. If your overclocked rig can pass this program at its maximum level, I would pronounce your machine to be as close to absolute stability as possible.

OCCT is very good in evaluating "basic" stability, even at its default setting. It stresses both your CPU and your RAM coupled together. If neither of these subsystems is set up properly, then the test will fail. Similarly, if there is a hardware fault implicating either the CPU or the RAM, then the test will fail.

Your case, though, is strange, in that, despite changing out both RAM and CPU on the same motherboard, the system still fails stress-testing. It may be that the motherboard may be at fault.

At any rate, hopefully the resolution is a good one for you.










Please see my previous post







:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Here...let's test my theory!

Somebody else in the club (looks at joe) should run OCCT 2.0 (or whatever the newest one is)....and ATTEMPT to run it for 24 hours. Let's see what happens?


----------



## Blitz6804

You'll notice the timestamps Pio... all three of us simul-posted. (I clicked submit, and the other two popped up on refresh.)

From talking to Pioneer on XFire, I am hearing all his nForce4 rigs are doing this. Anyone have nForce4 with a dual XP/Vista boot? I am wondering if this is an nForce4/Vista issue. (Nothing would surprise me from nVidia.)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

When I get my LANParty UT CFX3200-DR set up (sometime during this week), I will run OCCT Blend with the system at stock for 24hrs (though this is overkill, to be honest, because OCCT Blend is more stressful than Prime95/Orthos Blend at default). OCCT's program author says his program at default is equivalent to a 24 hour run of Orthos/Prime95, but I have no way of confirming whether or not this is true.









I'd run it now (since the rig is set up), but its onboard SATA controllers are too goofy to rely on.







I'm waiting for a SATA controller card to arrive, after which I'll reinstall the OS to run it off of that.

As far as whether or not it's a chipset issue, to be honest. My nForce4 machines have never had problems like these...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


When I get my LANParty UT CFX3200-DR set up (sometime during this week), I will run OCCT Blend with the system at stock for 24hrs (though this is overkill, to be honest, because OCCT Blend is more stressful than Prime95/Orthos Blend at default). OCCT's program author says his program at default is equivalent to a 24 hour run of Orthos/Prime95, but I have no way of confirming whether or not this is true.









I'd run it now (since the rig is set up), but its onboard SATA controllers are too goofy to rely on.







I'm waiting for a SATA controller card to arrive, after which I'll reinstall the OS to run it off of that.

As far as whether or not it's a chipset issue, to be honest. My nForce4 machines have never had problems like these...










Well I Look forward to hearing your results!


----------



## Blitz6804

To be fair, you have never ran Vista on any of them right? I know from experience that nVidia can be temperamental about Vista. Granted, mine was nForce 3, but it is still a valid quipe.

To test the overworking the processor theory: have you tried running Orthos for a few days non-stop? If the author of OCCT v2.0 is correct, you should have the same failure within a week if you are overstressing the processor.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Correct. I've never run Vista (maybe if I win the contest which ends tonight?







) myself, but I've personally never run into stories of nF4-based horrors like your nF3-based troubles.







(Except, perhaps, during the earliest days of the OS.)

In fact, Vista is said to have cured the ULi chipset troubles for some of LANParty UT CFX3200s out there... (which begs the question regarding this particular motherboard: Are its troubles hardware-based or software-based?)

I will share my findings as and when I've got things rolling, pio.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Correct. I've never run Vista (maybe if I win the contest which ends tonight?







) myself, but I've personally never run into stories of nF4-based horrors like your nF3-based troubles.







(Except, perhaps, during the earliest days of the OS.)

In fact, Vista is said to have cured the ULi chipset troubles for some of LANParty UT CFX3200s out there... (which begs the question regarding this particular motherboard: Are its troubles hardware-based or software-based?)

I will share my findings as and when I've got things rolling, pio.










Alright, well I look forward to hearing your results.

Also...keep an eye open (in this thread)...for HOPEFULLY a stable screenshot of my rig with Orthos. We'll see what happens of course.


----------



## Blitz6804

I would believe that Vista fixed the ULi, likely the only thing nVidia did right on Vista.

Xyro was not able to install XP 64-bit on his AT8-32X using either nVidia's driver nor the integrated driver. I was able to install Vista 64-bit on my AT8-32X using either the nVidia driver (with spotty performance) or the Vista driver (rock-steady).

I am still waiting to hear from Abit about getting an RMA for the record.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Update for pio: I had lucked into a possible fix on my SATA controller-related problems on the CFX3200-DR last night. The bottom line is, I was able to test my machine's stability to some extent. I ran OCCT on it for four hours, and the rig passed. For the record, it was the Blend test, and the system is set to just stock clocks right now.

Before this settings change (involving "HTTStop" timing options in the southbridge, whatever this controls), the system would reboot whenever there was any significant writing onto the HDD (such as during WinXP updates). Very very annoying, for sure. After changing the HTTStop setting, the reboots stopped (they haven't recurred).

More testing to be done when I get home today.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Update for pio: I had lucked into a possible fix on my SATA controller-related problems on the CFX3200-DR last night. The bottom line is, I was able to test my machine's stability to some extent. I ran OCCT on it for four hours, and the rig passed. For the record, it was the Blend test, and the system is set to just stock clocks right now.

Before this settings change (involving "HTTStop" timing options in the southbridge, whatever this controls), the system would reboot whenever there was any significant writing onto the HDD (such as during WinXP updates). Very very annoying, for sure. After changing the HTTStop setting, the reboots stopped (they haven't recurred).

More testing to be done when I get home today.


Joe, in regards to the "HTTSTOP" error have you tried the highest setting 8ns to see if the problem reproduces itself? Apparently 1ns provides the "best performance".

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Joe, in regards to the "HTTSTOP" error have you tried the highest setting 8ns to see if the problem reproduces itself? Apparently 1ns provides the "best performance".

Good luck










By default, the BIOS had the HTTStop set to 1ns. I had never bothered to change it until I lucked into a forum post somewhere else regarding this BIOS option and how fiddling with it might improve stability.

Being me, I tested all possibilities.







As things turned out, only 8ns actually worked for my system.

Hopefully it's an effective fix long-term. But only time and stress and testing will tell.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Being me, I tested all possibilities.







As things turned out, only 8ns actually worked for my system.


Joe, very interesting. Apparently faster(1ns) isn't always better. Perhaps 1ns speed caused communication problems with the SATA controller and the SB









Keep us posted

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, very interesting. Apparently faster(1ns) isn't always better. Perhaps 1ns speed caused communication problems with the SATA controller and the SB









Keep us posted

Good luck









Will do, good sir.









You know me: I'm the conservative sort. I'd rather have a slightly slower machine if it earns me some extra stability. I value stability as highly as I do performance.

I'm considering starting an OCing log with the CFX3200-DR once I work all the kinks out at stock. I figure, what's the point of trying to overclock something that's not absolutely stable at stock speeds? Any problems that may exist while at stock will only be exaggerated once you start running things faster than intended.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well guys, seems OCCT2.0a was my problem! I'm 10+ hours stable at the specs in my sig.

*Update time!*
I got bored. So I installed my good ol' OCZ DDR500 sticks in with my Corsairs. I'm now running 4GB of RAM!!! Testing stability now with Orthos, however its not stressing all of it. So memtest stability will also need done.
*
BTW...I'm also CURRENTLY at:*
333 x 9 = 3.0GHz, 1.39v
133 divider = 214MHz (DDR428)
2.5-3-2-7-2T (trc-12, trfc-16)
So far I'm about an hour or so stable in Orthos!

*Froggy's rig is also getting some revamps!*
275 x 10 = 2.75GHz, 1.41v
133 divider = 183MHz (DDR366)
2.5-3-3-6-1T (trc-12, trfc-16)
Her's is about 2.5 hours stable so far!

I also dropped her load temperatures by 10*C. She's still loading at 72*C....however I'm about to think that maybe her Big Typhoon is screwed up.

*Things that we are now looking for (for those that may have them):*
A GOOD cooler for Socket 939 (preferred bolt down, or include a retention bracket)
AData 2GB (2x1GB) DDR400 kit with red heatspreaders
That's it for now. Screenshots will be coming when the rigs prove stable!

*EDIT:* I forgot to add this!
The reasoning behind Froggy's low memory speed is because I believe her memory controller may be screwed up. She can't even pass Orthos at DDR400, 3-4-4-8-2T. However I lower the speed and tighten the timings some, and she's golden! So seems her Opteron 170 may be one of those rare ones that are quite screwy







. But hey, if we can get her 4GB of RAM in hers, she won't even notice the slowed speed!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I also dropped her load temperatures by 10*C. She's still loading at 72*C....however I'm about to think that maybe her Big Typhoon is screwed up.

*EDIT:* I forgot to add this!
The reasoning behind Froggy's low memory speed is because I believe her memory controller may be screwed up. She can't even pass Orthos at DDR400, 3-4-4-8-2T. However I lower the speed and tighten the timings some, and she's golden! So seems her Opteron 170 may be one of those rare ones that are quite screwy







. But hey, if we can get her 4GB of RAM in hers, she won't even notice the slowed speed!


Pioneerisloud, which component is loading at 72c full load? In regards to the memory issue, just to confirm but have you tried testing with different memory to see if the problem reproduces itself?

Glad to hear things are going fairly well

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

In my humble opinion, 4 GB of memory is a MUST in Vista. Vista is much snappier with 4 GB versus 2 GB, much like XP is snappier with 2 GB than 1 GB. The difference of 2 GB to 4 GB, while noticeable in XP, is much less profound than Vista.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
In my humble opinion, 4 GB of memory is a MUST in Vista. Vista is much snappier with 4 GB versus 2 GB, much like XP is snappier with 2 GB than 1 GB. The difference of 2 GB to 4 GB, while noticeable in XP, is much less profound than Vista.

Blitz, even after extensive tweaking and shutting down services Vista (32-bit I am assuming) still run's best with 4GB of memory?

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

When you shut down the services, the distinction shrinks to the size of of XP 2/4 GB. Leaving services as they are out of the box leaves a much larger distinction.

If you do not have 4 GB in Vista, and run it as it is from the box, I heavily recommend ReadyBoost. It does not make the OS work any faster (unlike 4 GB does) but does speed programs opening. With 4 GB of RAM, ReadyBoost does next to nothing. It does not work at all in Vista 64-bit. Not that there is no performance gains (there are) but it works for about 5-10 minutes before it makes Explorer crash.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


but it works for about 5-10 minutes before it makes Explorer crash.


----------



## pioneerisloud

@th1nk3rb377:
The hottest core on the CPU loads near 72-75*C. The OTHER core is only at 55*C. I know its not the CPU as it only has a 1*C delta in my rig. I'm thinking her Big Typhoon is screwed up. I've reseated SEVERAL times.

And yes I've tried all sorts of RAM in hers as well. The OCZ DDR500's (2x1GB kit), various 4x512MB Value Crap (hit 225MHz with 2T timings on the Manny in the same rig), and these AData's that I'm currently testing in it. NONE of them play well at all at or above DDR400 with that chip *when overclocked.* So I am thinking that the chip may have a weak memory controller (when overclocking)....OR the heat is getting to it, thus reendering it unstable with higher memory clocks.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


@th1nk3rb377:
The hottest core on the CPU loads near 72-75*C. The OTHER core is only at 55*C. I know its not the CPU as it only has a 1*C delta in my rig. I'm thinking her Big Typhoon is screwed up. I've reseated SEVERAL times.


Pio, it's a possibility that the IHS wasn't properly mounted from the beginning. It could also be a poorly calibrated temperature sensor. Does the machine actually lock up during testing?

Good luck


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pio, it's a possibility that the IHS wasn't properly mounted from the beginning. It could also be a poorly calibrated temperature sensor. Does the machine actually lock up during testing?

Good luck










No, the machine doesn't actually lock up (anymore) during testing. And there was only a 1*C delta with THAT chip in MY board (and cooler). In her's there's about 10-20*C delta (depending on load). Hence why I'm thinking the B.T. is at fault.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


And there was only a 1*C delta with THAT chip in MY board (and cooler). In her's there's about 10-20*C delta (depending on load). Hence why I'm thinking the B.T. is at fault.


Pioneer, sorry for the confusion. Been a long day









Have you tested with another cooler? I'm assuming you already have but I had to ask.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


It does not work at all in Vista 64-bit. Not that there is no performance gains (there are) but it works for about 5-10 minutes before it makes Explorer crash.


No me, you are wrong. Ready boost works in Vista 64-bit with two caveats. First, I cannot plug the thumb drive directly into a USB port in the rear of the system. If I plug it into an extension cable, or plug it into the top USBs (connected via a header rather than directly on the motherboard's PCB) it will work fine. This leads me to believe that for some reason or another, the EFI shield is interfering with the thumb drive. The other caveat. The drive must be formatted as NTFS. FAT32 works fine for Vista 32-bit. FAT32 in Vista 64-bit causes the issue I quoted above.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
No me, you are wrong. Ready boost works in Vista 64-bit with two caveats. First, I cannot plug the thumb drive directly into a USB port in the rear of the system. If I plug it into an extension cable, or plug it into the top USBs (connected via a header rather than directly on the motherboard's PCB) it will work fine. This leads me to believe that for some reason or another, the EFI shield is interfering with the thumb drive. The other caveat. The drive must be formatted as NTFS. FAT32 works fine for Vista 32-bit. FAT32 in Vista 64-bit causes the issue I quoted above.

Blitz, it's possible the I/O plate could be interfering but if the motherboard is installed properly then it shouldn't be an issue. You can easily check by just pulling the board out, removing the I/O plate and test it that way. The USB header on board should use the same controller so I don't see how this could be the problem









Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I know it is the I/O plate causing the problem. Plug the drive in with a USB extension cable, and it works fine. That is what I am doing now; using an 8" cable.

That I/O plate, while in my opinion necessary, does cause me some annoyance. For example, the rear CMOS clear jumper is inaccessible with it installed.


----------



## podge

Howisitgoin fellows, im upgrading my 939 rig in a couple of days from an athlon 3200+ to an opteron 180. I was wondering if anyone knows how well this cpu overclocks? thanks


----------



## Blitz6804

No-one knows. What happens with one Opty 180 will not be the same as your Opty 180. The same Opty 180 might behave differently in different motherboards. The only way to know how well you will overclock is to try overclocking. As Joe says,

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Good steppings: CCBBE; LCB9E; LCBQE. CCBBEs are from 2006; LCB*Es are from late 2006-mid 2007.

Note: Stepping recommendations are NOT a guarantee of a overclocking result. They merely indicate possible outcomes due to the law of averages being in your favor.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pioneer, sorry for the confusion. Been a long day









Have you tested with another cooler? I'm assuming you already have but I had to ask.

Good luck


Negative....have NOT tested with another cooler. The motherboard in question is the one we got from you...and you have the retention bracket! So the only option we have is her Big Typhoon. If I remember correctly, I attached the MSI retention module to the DFI board I sent you. I did so because we seemed to have lost the DFI one.

So yeah....can't test any other coolers I'm afraid







.

However so far she's 11 hours stable and counting!!! At the settings I posted earlier (last page I think???).


----------



## boonie2

11 hrs should make it good


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


11 hrs should make it good










Well I WILL NOT count ANY rig stable unless its 12 hours Orthos blended stable







. Next up on her rig....GPU OC time! Let's see what the G80 can pull!


----------



## Blitz6804

And I will not count any rig stable until I pull out the whips, leather, and ball gags... *Coughs*

*I mean S&M v1.9.1!*


----------



## boonie2

Blitz ive been away too long , when did you put the new system up ? looks great


----------



## podge

could someone update the rota pls, http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=418801


----------



## Blitz6804

So updated.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

podge, good to see a 300MHz bump up for you.









The roster has been updated accordingly.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Negative....have NOT tested with another cooler. The motherboard in question is the one we got from you...and you have the retention bracket! So the only option we have is her Big Typhoon. If I remember correctly, I attached the MSI retention module to the DFI board I sent you. I did so because we seemed to have lost the DFI one.

So yeah....can't test any other coolers I'm afraid







.


Pio, what retention bracket are you needing? The one off of the DFI nForce 3 board? I can send it to you if you want.

Podge, great job on the OC


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pio, what retention bracket are you needing? The one off of the DFI nForce 3 board? I can send it to you if you want.

Podge, great job on the OC










Nah dude, don't worry about it...I just need to find the one that was SUPPOSED to go on that DFI







. That one would probably suffice just fine if I can find it.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Inspired a bit my pioneer's recent bout of tweaks to his system, I decided to try a tweak on my sig rig. Being the cautious sort, I had always kept the A8N32-SLI Deluxe's HT Link speed at or below 1GHz to avoid instability. Moreover, user reports have consistently always been that increasing HT speed doesn't net in increased benchmark figures, so it was fine to keep this figure to circa 800-1000MHz.

I decided to try increasing my HT Link Multiplier from 3x to 4x to see if 1) it would affect my machine's stability and 2) whether or not there would be any performance gains. Aside from bumping up the HT Link Multiplier, I also increased the HT Link signal strength (Enable LDT Overvolt in the BIOS, if I remember correctly).

The resulting HT Link Speed on the system is now 1120MHz (280MHz HTT Clock x 4), or 120MHz above spec. Testing with S&M v.1.9.1 on full intensity (using all tests sans the HDD tests) for stability, the system passed without incident, so it appears the system is completely stable with a 12% hike in HT Link speed.

I haven't run any benchmarks to test throughput, but on a purely subjective level the system is appreciably more responsive. Programs open and close noticeably faster. The whole system just feels much lighter on its feet.

A caveat: If you're considering doing something similar with your system, I advise that you subject it to a thorough, stringent test. An unstable system will destroy your OS. Further, your hardware (the motherboard, specifically) may not be able to handle the increased HT Link speed. Stability testing is critical for something like this.

I have a couple of tests in mind to test whether or not the tweak leads to increased benchmark scores (3DMark06, SuperPi). The only thing I'm looking for here is any increase in scores. Does anybody have any suggestions for other benchmarks to test for increased throughput?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


That I/O plate, while in my opinion necessary,


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Inspired a bit my pioneer's recent bout of tweaks to his system, I decided to try a tweak on my sig rig. Being the cautious sort, I had always kept the A8N32-SLI Deluxe's HT Link speed at or below 1GHz to avoid instability. Moreover, user reports have consistently always been that increasing HT speed doesn't net in increased benchmark figures, so it was fine to keep this figure to circa 800-1000MHz.

I decided to try increasing my HT Link Multiplier from 3x to 4x to see if 1) it would affect my machine's stability and 2) whether or not there would be any performance gains. Aside from bumping up the HT Link Multiplier, I also increased the HT Link signal strength (Enable LDT Overvolt in the BIOS, if I remember correctly).

The resulting HT Link Speed on the system is now 1120MHz (280MHz HTT Clock x 4), or 120MHz above spec. Testing with S&M v.1.9.1 on full intensity (using all tests sans the HDD tests) for stability, the system passed without incident, so it appears the system is completely stable with a 12% hike in HT Link speed.

I haven't run any benchmarks to test throughput, but on a purely subjective level the system is appreciably more responsive. Programs open and close noticeably faster. The whole system just feels much lighter on its feet.

A caveat: If you're considering doing something similar with your system, I advise that you subject it to a thorough, stringent test. An unstable system will destroy your OS. Further, your hardware (the motherboard, specifically) may not be able to handle the increased HT Link speed. Stability testing is critical for something like this.

I have a couple of tests in mind to test whether or not the tweak leads to increased benchmark scores (3DMark06, SuperPi). The only thing I'm looking for here is any increase in scores. Does anybody have any suggestions for other benchmarks to test for increased throughput?


I lowered my FSB from 375 to 334 to increase the HTT and noticed a drop in SuperPi even with the higher HTT. I then put my setting back to 375 and got my 28 second SuperPi run back. The higher HTT didn't do anything for me. Of course this on my DFI Mobo so results may very.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Inspired a bit my pioneer's recent bout of tweaks to his system, I decided to try a tweak on my sig rig. Being the cautious sort, I had always kept the A8N32-SLI Deluxe's HT Link speed at or below 1GHz to avoid instability. Moreover, user reports have consistently always been that increasing HT speed doesn't net in increased benchmark figures, so it was fine to keep this figure to circa 800-1000MHz.

I decided to try increasing my HT Link Multiplier from 3x to 4x to see if 1) it would affect my machine's stability and 2) whether or not there would be any performance gains. Aside from bumping up the HT Link Multiplier, I also increased the HT Link signal strength (Enable LDT Overvolt in the BIOS, if I remember correctly).

The resulting HT Link Speed on the system is now 1120MHz (280MHz HTT Clock x 4), or 120MHz above spec. Testing with S&M v.1.9.1 on full intensity (using all tests sans the HDD tests) for stability, the system passed without incident, so it appears the system is completely stable with a 12% hike in HT Link speed.

I haven't run any benchmarks to test throughput, but on a purely subjective level the system is appreciably more responsive. Programs open and close noticeably faster. The whole system just feels much lighter on its feet.

A caveat: If you're considering doing something similar with your system, I advise that you subject it to a thorough, stringent test. An unstable system will destroy your OS. Further, your hardware (the motherboard, specifically) may not be able to handle the increased HT Link speed. Stability testing is critical for something like this.

I have a couple of tests in mind to test whether or not the tweak leads to increased benchmark scores (3DMark06, SuperPi). The only thing I'm looking for here is any increase in scores. Does anybody have any suggestions for other benchmarks to test for increased throughput?

So I'm NOT the only one who notices a difference????!!!!! Mine was running at 1250MHz with my 2.8GHz run (312x4). And just EVERYTHING seems to load faster when the HT Link is up higher. Just like I've been TRYING to say! I'm glad that I now have a second person to back up this theory though







.

Oh and joe:
Your package will be shipping tomorrow







.


----------



## GuardianOdin

what multiplier are you two using? I'm stuck with 9 being my highest. Bah! I need to hurry and buy that Opty 170 from the mighty Joe.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


what multiplier are you two using? I'm stuck with 9 being my highest. Bah! I need to hurry and buy that Opty 170 from the mighty Joe.


I'm using 9x multiplier. I can't go any higher at all with a lower multiplier on my HT Clock either







.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I'm using 9x multiplier. I can't go any higher at all with a lower multiplier on my HT Clock either







.

I'll give that higher HTT another shot in the morning after work. I tried earlier tonight, but I think I goofed it up.

GOOD NEWS! We get to keep the house







That means I won't have to find another place to live


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I've done some benchmarking tonight to see if there are any measurable effects from increasing your HT Link speed without changing your CPU speed. Running SuperPi, the system was fractions of a second slower in the 1M test (ran it several times, and the results were consistent), so apparently performance is not affected. Similarly, I ran 3DMark06; scores did not increase, but were very close to my system's best score at identical settings. I would say that the results are within 2-3% of the target score, and therefore are comparable.

I did another test: Boot-up time from cold. My consistent boot-up time under a 3x HT Multiplier is ~1:22.xx secs. This is from complete shutdown to completely loading everything when WinXP starts up. With the 4x HT Multiplier, I saw a consistent boot-up time of ~1:11.xx secs. That's an improvement of around 10%, if my estimate is correct.

Bottom line: Benchmarks may not prove that there is an improvement in performance, but the feel at the keyboard level is definitely there. The fact that there is also a detectable and measurable improvement in boot-up times also suggests that increasing the HT Link speed does have a positive effect on total system performance.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I've done some benchmarking tonight to see if there are any measurable effects from increasing your HT Link speed without changing your CPU speed. Running SuperPi, the system was fractions of a second slower in the 1M test (ran it several times, and the results were consistent), so apparently performance is not affected. Similarly, I ran 3DMark06; scores did not increase, but were very close to my system's best score at identical settings. I would say that the results are within 2-3% of the target score, and therefore are comparable.

I did another test: Boot-up time from cold. My consistent boot-up time under a 3x HT Multiplier is ~1:22.xx secs. This is from complete shutdown to completely loading everything when WinXP starts up. With the 4x HT Multiplier, I saw a consistent boot-up time of ~1:11.xx secs. That's an improvement of around 10%, if my estimate is correct.

Bottom line: Benchmarks may not prove that there is an improvement in performance, but the feel at the keyboard level is definitely there. The fact that there is also a detectable and measurable improvement in boot-up times also suggests that increasing the HT Link speed does have a positive effect on total system performance.

I KNEW IT! + Rep for you good sir....for PROVING what I have been saying for so long! And you guys doubted me and told me to drop my HT Link! Screw it...I'm upping it to 1333!!!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I KNEW IT! + Rep for you good sir....for PROVING what I have been saying for so long! And you guys doubted me and told me to drop my HT Link! Screw it...I'm upping it to 1333!!!

pio, just be careful you don't go too far out of spec.









(I'd image your OS before going for a 33% bump up in HT speed.







)

By the way, I'll likely send your package out on Friday. No time tomorrow at all (delivering a rig to a client after work







).

EDIT: G.O.! Good to hear the great news! Your Opty 170 has a definite home, then.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
pio, just be careful you don't go too far out of spec.









(I'd image your OS before going for a 33% bump up in HT speed.







)

By the way, I'll likely send your package out on Friday. No time tomorrow at all (delivering a rig to a client after work







).

EDIT: G.O.! Good to hear the great news! Your Opty 170 has a definite home, then.









Not a problem at all on the package.

And I'm already there







. I faked ya out! I'm so far an hour and a half stable at the following:

333 x 9 = 3.0GHz
166MHz, 2.5-3-3-6-2T (trc=9, trfc=12) (DDR333)
2x1GB Corsair XMS in sig +
2x1GB OCZ Platinum DDR500 (you guys know these sticks by now







)
1.375v in BIOS (1.39v under load)
1333MHz HT Link

Load temps of 63*C thus far. I stopped the stress test ON MY OWN...because I wanted to game a little. I will start it back up, and hopefully be stably by morning







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Psst.

pio.

Run it through S&M.









(Just a suggestion.







)


----------



## GuardianOdin

Thanks Joe, it's nice to have a bed to sleep in







and a special Opty 170 to look forward to









Well I'll give whole HTT thingy a shot in the morning...errr later on this morning. I know I'll have to drop the RAM down even thou I love being at DDR500+


----------



## pez

Ok guys..thanks to joe, I got a dual core for my 939 rig now. I'm still on stock vcore, and the highest I've gotten is 2.33ghz. Here's my caveat. I've oc'ed to 2.4 and ran a test and it failed. I tried upping my vcore, BUT when i open coretemp and CPU-z, it still says it's on 1.35 (stock). You guys know what's going on?

Oh and just to brag...even though it doesn't matter. My vista rating went from:

CPU: 4.3
RAM: 4.9
GFX: 5.9
Gam.GFX: 5.6
HDD: 5.3

TOOOOO:
CPU: 5.0
RAM: 5.9
GFX: 5.9
Gam.GFX: 5.6
HDD: 5.3

Any explanation to why the memory shot up a whole point? I know the CPU can have to do with how fast the RAM is accessed, so is that why?


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Any explanation to why the memory shot up a whole point? I know the CPU can have to do with how fast the RAM is accessed, so is that why?

See your FSB? Multiply that by 2, and you get your RAM clock speed. Your FSB was likely stock at 200 (DDR400 RAM), and when you upped it to 233FSB, your RAM essentially is running like DDR466.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

pez, along the lines of what Xyro has just said, it's likely that your RAM is now also running faster than stock (DDR400). Did you use a divider on the RAM?

Per our PM conversation, I believe this might also be why the stress tests are failing. RAM that is set incorrectly will induce stress test failures.

Could you provide us with a screenshot of your CPU-Z's Memory tab?


----------



## thlnk3r

Joe, thanks for sharing your extensive testing. Please keep us posted...very interesting









Guardian, glad to hear the good news


----------



## Blitz6804

Great news guardian!

I will be changing your roster link sometime tomorrow Pez.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


pez, along the lines of what Xyro has just said, it's likely that your RAM is now also running faster than stock (DDR400). Did you use a divider on the RAM?

Per our PM conversation, I believe this might also be why the stress tests are failing. RAM that is set incorrectly will induce stress test failures.

Could you provide us with a screenshot of your CPU-Z's Memory tab?


No, I didn't touch the ram, just left it at "Auto" just tweaked the FSB. But still, this doesn't explain why my vcore is not being effective. I've changed it to 1.375, and 1.4, but still, software shows 1.344. I think I'll be able to get up to maybe 237 or 238 as far as FSB for now, but the tests come back failed with rounding errors (i.e. needed .5, rounded to .4...something along those lines). The system did BSOD a few times and once it did a memory diagnostic after rebooting. If possible, I want to get this thing to 2.5, but 2.4 is the goal. I'm an overachiever







.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


No, I didn't touch the ram, just left it at "Auto" just tweaked the FSB. But still, this doesn't explain why my vcore is not being effective. I've changed it to 1.375, and 1.4, but still, software shows 1.344.


Pez, just to verify but have you checked to see if Cool'n'Quiet is "Disabled"? Also make sure anything related to "Spread Spectrum" is also disabled. There are also some settings that might be related to "thermal throttling", turn those off as well.

Let us know

Good luck


----------



## GuardianOdin

Thanks a bunch guys.It does feels nice









Running my HT at 4


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pez, just to verify but have you checked to see if Cool'n'Quiet is "Disabled"? Also make sure anything related to "Spread Spectrum" is also disabled. There are also some settings that might be related to "thermal throttling", turn those off as well.

Let us know

Good luck










No, my motherboard doesn't have an option for cool'n'quiet. I checked before when cpu-z showed my clock speeds jumpin' around. I've seen spread spectrum regarding to ram in the bios, also there was one for the cpu, but I'm pretty sure it's disabled. The single core that was in here before I had running on a higher than stock vcore. CPU-z read the vcore about.02-.1 lower, but for this cpu, it just says it's running stock vcore. BTW joe, you can see it from the coretemp, but the highest I've seen it since adding that cooler you included is 59C, I haven't seen it go to 60 like before, almost like it's scared to lol.


----------



## thlnk3r

Guardian, very nice HT link speed. Have you tested for stability? Maybe I should try changing my multiplier from 3x to 4x. That would put me at 1200mhz









Good luck

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


No, my motherboard doesn't have an option for cool'n'quiet. I checked before when cpu-z showed my clock speeds jumpin' around. I've seen spread spectrum regarding to ram in the bios, also there was one for the cpu, but I'm pretty sure it's disabled. The single core that was in here before I had running on a higher than stock vcore. CPU-z read the vcore about.02-.1 lower, but for this cpu, it just says it's running stock vcore. BTW joe, you can see it from the coretemp, but the highest I've seen it since adding that cooler you included is 59C, I haven't seen it go to 60 like before, almost like it's scared to lol.


Pez, after making Vcore changes in your BIOS and after restarting do the changes show up in the BIOS? Usually the "PC Health" screen will show the current Vcore.

A full load temperature of 60C is not bad. Your case airflow and room ambient temperature play a big part as well. Is it warm where you are at (ambient)?

Good luck buddy


----------



## GuardianOdin

Haven't tested stability yet. I'm off Saturday so I'll try then.I tell ya, this Mobo surprises me quit a bit.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pez, after making Vcore changes in your BIOS and after restarting do the changes show up in the BIOS? Usually the "PC Health" screen will show the current Vcore.

A full load temperature of 60C is not bad. Your case airflow and room ambient temperature play a big part as well. Is it warm where you are at (ambient)?

Good luck buddy


It's not that warm, thermostat upstairs usually says 77-78F. I had to break off a piece on the cpu fan connector just to get the 4-pin one to work, heh, but the temps improved. I'll have to look at it in BIOS when I get home (school atm







). But even before CPU-z showed a difference when I changed it in bios. The option in bios is called hammer vid and it has options all the from about .9 to 1.625 or 1.675. Maybe when I get home, I'll see if I can take a picture of the bios. It's weird that it lets me change vcore in bios, but doesn't even happen. Maybe a cmos reset? I never reset my cmos when I installed the new chip, just took the old one out, and popped the new one in.


----------



## Blitz6804

You must ALWAYS reset the CMOS on a CPU change. It is a good idea to reset it on any hardware change (video card; RAM; hard drive; et cetera).

When you say "load," what are you loading it with? 60Âº C in S&M or Orthos small FFTs is impressive. 60Âº C in SuperPi is not. Especially not with a 26Âº C ambient.

Your motherboard's manual and BIOS guide both seems silent on C'n'Q as you have said. If it is like my Gigabyte, C'n'Q is turned off when you change the multiplier or the voltage from "auto." Explicitly changing the Hammer Vid from Auto to 10x or the Hammer Fid to 1.35 V as you have done should disable it. Further, ensure your power mode is not "power saver" or change the profile such that Processor State Management has a minimum and maximum of 100%. This disables the software support of C'n'Q.

From experience however, I can say that C'n'Q does not hamper an FSB overclock. It may interfere with a multiplier overclock. At least, in my cases; your mileage may vary.


----------



## pez

Ahh, yeah it was from my SS in the previous post. After 8+ hours of orthos, it was at 59C. That was the highest I saw. Also, I will reset the CMOS, but what does that do? I mean as far as for the CPU? Does it have some advantage or disadvantage, and is the fact that I didn't reset when I first tried not good, and could that have possibly damaged something?

EDIT: Reset the CMOS, and set the VCORE up to 1.4. The PC Health in BIOS read 1.39, and when it POST'ed it showed 1.39, but still, coretemp and cpuz still tell me it's at 1.35/1.344. And I'm pretty sure I won't get a stable 2.4 OC.


----------



## Blitz6804

You will not do any damage to anything for forgetting to clear the CMOS. Unless of course you replace a 1.50 V CPU with a 1.35 V CPU; then you might.

The CMOS holds settings info in the BIOS. Clearing the CMOS will put the board back to the "Optimized Defaults," that is, reading everything from the parts' SPDs if available.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


EDIT: Reset the CMOS, and set the VCORE up to 1.4. The PC Health in BIOS read 1.39, and when it POST'ed it showed 1.39, but still, coretemp and cpuz still tell me it's at 1.35/1.344. And I'm pretty sure I won't get a stable 2.4 OC.


Pez, I usually go by the BIOS. In my opinion it's the most accurate. Have you tried checking the Vcore through Everest?

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


No, I didn't touch the ram, just left it at "Auto" just tweaked the FSB. But still, this doesn't explain why my vcore is not being effective. I've changed it to 1.375, and 1.4, but still, software shows 1.344. I think I'll be able to get up to maybe 237 or 238 as far as FSB for now, but the tests come back failed with rounding errors (i.e. needed .5, rounded to .4...something along those lines). The system did BSOD a few times and once it did a memory diagnostic after rebooting. If possible, I want to get this thing to 2.5, but 2.4 is the goal. I'm an overachiever







.


Keeping the RAM on "Auto" may not kick it down a divider setting or two; this is why I suggested checking the RAM tab on CPU-Z, just to see precisely what the RAM setting is.







If the RAM indeed is still running 1:1 with the HTT Clock ("FSB"), then it's very likely that it's running over its limits (causing the BSODs/crashes).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Ahh, yeah it was from my SS in the previous post. After 8+ hours of orthos, it was at 59C. That was the highest I saw. Also, I will reset the CMOS, but what does that do? I mean as far as for the CPU? Does it have some advantage or disadvantage, and is the fact that I didn't reset when I first tried not good, and could that have possibly damaged something?

EDIT: Reset the CMOS, and set the VCORE up to 1.4. The PC Health in BIOS read 1.39, and when it POST'ed it showed 1.39, but still, coretemp and cpuz still tell me it's at 1.35/1.344. And I'm pretty sure I won't get a stable 2.4 OC.


CoreTemp MAY have an issue reading VCore with some motherboards. I will run some tests imminently to see if it does have a VCore detection problem.

Here's a question: When you see it @ 1.344/1.35V, is this during a max load (such as during full load stress testing), or at "idle"? It's customary for systems to have a dip in VCore during maximum load.









By the way, I'm glad the CPU and the HSF are working out well for you.









Good luck, buddy!


----------



## pez

Oh, sorry I took a screenshot of my memory tabs, must've gotten side-tracked. My memory is ddr333 ram, so maybe that's what's holding my OC back, though I'm very very happy with the performance gain it's already gotten. It's stable at 235 now, so maybe I'll try 237 before I hit the hay. Here's the SS:

The slot 1 is of course the DDR333 ram (slot 1 and 2 are same) and the slot 3 is DDR400 ram (slot 3 and 4 are same). I have 2 sticks of each (512mb modules). Maybe after I purchase the PSU that I want, I'll start racking up for the DDR400 2x1gb kit that I've wanted for the past 6 months







.


----------



## Blitz6804

I have some good news for you: CoreTemp is reading your CPU wrong. A E4 Manchester 3800+ is 89 W and not 65.6 W. Further, the max temperature is not 63Âº C, but instead, 71Âº C. If I remember right, CoreTemp shows the specification voltage and not the actual voltage. I would go by what CPU-Z says.

As for your overclock: yes, memory might be holding you back. Right now, I see you are on a 200:166 memory divider. (DDR 333 all-stock.) Has 200:133 permitted you any gains? Does a CAS Latency of 3.0 permit you any higher?

Also, your "Bank Cycle Time (tRC)" is a little too tight. It should be no tighter than the sum of tRP and tRAS. That is, in your case, 11. The reason why it is set to 10 is because you left it at "Auto." "Auto" reads from the RAM's SPD, which is set to the ideal 10 for tRP = 3 and tRAS = 7. (While you change tRC, also change "Row Refresh Cycle Time" (tRFC) to 14 while you are at it.)


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I have some good news for you: CoreTemp is reading your CPU wrong. A E4 Manchester 3800+ is 89 W and not 65.6 W. Further, the max temperature is not 63Âº C, but instead, 71Âº C. If I remember right, CoreTemp shows the specification voltage and not the actual voltage. I would go by what CPU-Z says.

As for your overclock: yes, memory might be holding you back. Right now, I see you are on a 200:166 memory divider. (DDR 333 all-stock.) Has 200:133 permitted you any gains? Does a CAS Latency of 3.0 permit you any higher?

Also, your "Bank Cycle Time (tRC)" is a little too tight. It should be no tighter than the sum of tRP and tRAS. That is, in your case, 11. The reason why it is set to 10 is because you left it at "Auto." "Auto" reads from the RAM's SPD, which is set to the ideal 10 for tRP = 3 and tRAS = 7. (While you change tRC, also change "Row Refresh Cycle Time" (tRFC) to 14 while you are at it.)


Oh god, I'm gonna have to try this tommorow. I had to reread it a couple times to understand it all lol. I didn't really mess with the memory settings. Also, in my BIOS, I don't think everything is labeled like that. Well it's good to know that it's not my vcore holding me back, but rather my memory, heh.


----------



## Blitz6804

It may be either. I THINK, based on what I am seeing, it is your memory. You are running DDR 333 RAM at near DDR 400 speeds but trying to keep DDR 333 timings. Without some epic (or mislabled) IMCs, you would need some more RAM voltage to do that. (I never recommend RAM voltage personally.)


----------



## GuardianOdin

poop, the higher HTT is not S&M stable. I'll have to lower the RAM a bit and recheck.


----------



## Blitz6804

Remember, asking the CPU to handle a higher HT link and a higher RAM will lead to some issues. Lowering the RAM, lowering the HT link, or increasing voltage may be needed for stability.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Remember, asking the CPU to handle a higher HT link and a higher RAM will lead to some issues. Lowering the RAM, lowering the HT link, or increasing voltage may be needed for stability.


just excuse for me to switch to watercooling.


----------



## Blitz6804

Wanna buy me a system too? I'd love to take the splash. I just fear I will get burned.


----------



## GuardianOdin

my wallet says no .lol


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


poop, the higher HTT is not S&M stable. I'll have to lower the RAM a bit and recheck.


G.O., try overvolting the chipset.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


G.O., try overvolting the chipset.










well it's already up from 1.20 to 1.30. No sure how much more I want to take it.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


well it's already up from 1.20 to 1.30. No sure how much more I want to take it.


Okay, roger that.

I'll have to look at the Expert's manual (to have a look at the BIOS) again and see if there's a setting or two there that might enable you to sustain a stable elevated HT Link speed. These DFI LANParty boards have all kinds of settings!









Alas, it'll have to wait, for the bed is a-calling.


----------



## GuardianOdin

lol, I have the manual some where....might be in the closet under old outdated PC cables. Sleep well Mighty Joe


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
It may be either. I THINK, based on what I am seeing, it is your memory. You are running DDR 333 RAM at near DDR 400 speeds but trying to keep DDR 333 timings. Without some epic (or mislabled) IMCs, you would need some more RAM voltage to do that. (I never recommend RAM voltage personally.)

I'll have to try what you suggested when I get home, as I don't have any time this morning to do so







.

EDIT: Kinda off topic, but I've been getting problem all of a sudden with the video. I've had the 177.92 drivers for at least a month I would think. Could it be the result of an unstable OC? I woke up this morning to see my Orthos results and my computer had frozen







. I set it back down to 2.33Ghz, but I'm still happy with it's speed. This video card has had all kinds of problems over the 6 months I've had it...just acting strange with drivers in Vista. Can't wait for a new one







.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Sounds like you are having the same issue's I've been battling Pez. Make sure you are using Orthos to stress test. I've PERSONALLY found OCCT to not work properly in Vista with NF4 chipsets.

Also...if your system is freezing, I would not suspect drivers. I would actually suspect your memory to be your weaklink. Drop the divider down another notch (from 166 to 133). That should help quite a bit.

*Update for my rig:*
I'm getting more and more stable by the day! I passed Orthos for 4.5 hours last night but errored out. I know, that's a bad thing.....right? WRONG! At least it didn't freeze during the test, or do a cold-reboot. So things are definitely getting better. If it doesn't pass for 12+ hours this time....I think 1333MHz HT Link may just be too high, so I may have to drop that idea







. I will of course, keep you all up to date







.


----------



## GuardianOdin

thinking about SuperPi now and the higher HTT. SuperPi really isn't going to show much of an improvement with the HTT. If I'm not mistaken, doesn't SuperPi really just work the L1 and L2 cache?


----------



## Blitz6804

What do you have your hypertransport voltage at Guardian?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well here's a quick eye-candy shot for those curious to my current OC attempts. If this one fails, I'm dropping the HT Link back down to 999MHz. I can't push any more voltage than this through the chip with my current cooling.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


What do you have your hypertransport voltage at Guardian?


The Hypertransport is the LDT setting correct?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


The Hypertransport is the LDT setting correct?


Arrrr, matey! (Today is "Talk Like A Pirate Day" after all.)


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Arrrr, matey! (Today is "Talk Like A Pirate Day" after all.)


Hey joe! Mornin! I have an idear for you to try out on your "gamer" rig. Just for kicks (if you have the parts available), I want you to try out 4GB of RAM. I'm serious. Crysis went from being unplayable even at High settings @ 1440x900 (would slow down and start to skip and get horrible framerates....STARTED fine though)...to being FULLY playable at "Very High" settings at 1440x900.


----------



## Blitz6804

Thar just bein' a little problem with yar suggestion: Joe be runnin' XP 32-bit, not Vista 64-bit such as yerself. He likely not be seein' a difference because of da difference in XP and Vista RAM allo-catin'.

Now; whar's me grog!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Thar just bein' a little problem with yar suggestion: Joe be runnin' XP 32-bit, not Vista 64-bit such as yerself. He likely not be seein' a difference because of da difference in XP and Vista RAM allo-catin'.

Now; whar's me grog!

Ah yes, that is a good point! I retract my previous statement.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Arrrrrrr!!!!


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Sounds like you are having the same issue's I've been battling Pez. Make sure you are using Orthos to stress test. I've PERSONALLY found OCCT to not work properly in Vista with NF4 chipsets.

Also...if your system is freezing, I would not suspect drivers. I would actually suspect your memory to be your weaklink. Drop the divider down another notch (from 166 to 133). That should help quite a bit.

*Update for my rig:*
I'm getting more and more stable by the day! I passed Orthos for 4.5 hours last night but errored out. I know, that's a bad thing.....right? WRONG! At least it didn't freeze during the test, or do a cold-reboot. So things are definitely getting better. If it doesn't pass for 12+ hours this time....I think 1333MHz HT Link may just be too high, so I may have to drop that idea







. I will of course, keep you all up to date







.

Yeah, I've been using orthos (in the ss a couple pages back). Yeah, I think I'll try setting the memory to 133, though in bios, it shows it set default at 200, so is the memory on auto at 166?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Yeah, I've been using orthos (in the ss a couple pages back). Yeah, I think I'll try setting the memory to 133, though in bios, it shows it set default at 200, so is the memory on auto at 166?

I trust CPUz to tell me what is set, not the BIOS. Sometimes the BIOS shows the default clock speeds and thats it....othertimes it shows the overclocked and set settings. It all depends on your BIOS, and I've never ran a Biostar board myself to tell ya. I'd personally knock the memory down as low as possible (133 divider will give you UP TO 300-312MHz HT Clock).... just to see how high you can get your CPU to go. Once you've found your CPU's limit, then start tinkering with your RAM and get it up to speed and stable.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I trust CPUz to tell me what is set, not the BIOS. Sometimes the BIOS shows the default clock speeds and thats it....othertimes it shows the overclocked and set settings. It all depends on your BIOS, and I've never ran a Biostar board myself to tell ya. I'd personally knock the memory down as low as possible (133 divider will give you UP TO 300-312MHz HT Clock).... just to see how high you can get your CPU to go. Once you've found your CPU's limit, then start tinkering with your RAM and get it up to speed and stable.

I think the ram options are 100, 133, 166, 200, 216, 233, and 250. The HTT is at auto (x5). So I should set the RAM to 133 or 100, and then HTT to what?


----------



## Blitz6804

I've read both his manuals completely. Biostar does not give many OCing options. I would agree with Pioneer; it would be a good idea to go by CPU-Z and not what the BIOS says.

And "Auto" will likely not work well for you. "Auto" tells the motherboard to read the RAM SPD and find out what settings it needs. The problem is, you have DDR 333 and DDR 400, both with different SPD values. The board is likely getting confused between the two.

I'd try RAM at 133 and HTT at 4x and go from there.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I trust CPUz to tell me what is set, not the BIOS. Sometimes the BIOS shows the default clock speeds and thats it....othertimes it shows the overclocked and set settings. It all depends on your BIOS, and I've never ran a Biostar board myself to tell ya. I'd personally knock the memory down as low as possible (133 divider will give you UP TO 300-312MHz HT Clock).... just to see how high you can get your CPU to go. Once you've found your CPU's limit, then start tinkering with your RAM and get it up to speed and stable.

Yarrr! Aye, matey! The advice from pio to isolate then later consolidate your separate subsystems (motherboard, i.e. HTT Clock ("FSB"), CPU, RAM) be good, says I!

Yarrr!


----------



## pez

Yeah, when I get home I'll try the x4 and 133. Before when i'd change the RAM from auto, sometimes it just wouldn't start at all, and I'd have to reset the CMOS. I'm getting ready to reformat and reinstall vista when I get home or tomorrow when I have time.

Also, just to educate me, if the RAM is running at 133 set manually, doesn't that mean the ram in actuality is running at ddr266? Wouldn't this decrease the performance?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Yeah, when I get home I'll try the x4 and 133. Before when i'd change the RAM from auto, sometimes it just wouldn't start at all, and I'd have to reset the CMOS. I'm getting ready to reformat and reinstall vista when I get home or tomorrow when I have time.
*
Also, just to educate me, if the RAM is running at 133 set manually, doesn't that mean the ram in actuality is running at ddr266? Wouldn't this decrease the performance?*

Running your RAM at 133 DOES in fact mean it will be running at 266MHz. However that is at stock HT clock (200MHz). Since you are overclocking, when your HT clock (FSB) goes up...so does your RAM. So limiting it to 266MHz (133 divider)...that gives you a safe zone.

And yes, 4x HT Link is a great place to start. After you pass 250Mhz HT Clock (FSB), then you'll want to drop it to 3x for safety.

I've uploaded a quite handy tool for determining memory speeds given your HT Clock (FSB), memory divider options, and multipliers. It also will tell you what your expected overclock will come out to be







. Hope its helpful...I know it was for me.


----------



## Blitz6804

No, it is not running DDR 266. It is a RAM divider. When you set it to 133, that means you are running at a 200:133 CPU:RAM ratio. Lets say you have set your FSB to 250. Your RAM would then be approximately 166, that is, DDR 333. How did I get that?

RAM_speed = FSB * RAM_r / CPU_r = 250 * 133 / 200 = 166.25 ~ DDR 333

Now, your RAM will not actually be 166 in most cases. With K8s, the RAM speed is not exactly what the BIOS sets it to be. Instead, it is an even divisor of your CPU speed. In your CPU's case, with your 10x multi, you will be running at 2500 MHz. Your RAM would either be running at CPU/14 or CPU/16, the latter being favored. That is, you will have your RAM at either DDR 357 or DDR 313. (2500 / 14 = 178.5 ~ DDR 357; 2500 / 16 = 156.3 ~ DDR 313)


----------



## pez

Hmmm, so in theory, if I set RAM to 133, and FSB to 266, it's at a 1:1 ratio? Also, when I've done this before, i think my bios will stop and tell me to lower the cpu frequency. So when I get home, I'll see what happens when I try 133 and fsb 250. I've put it on 250 and it ran pretty stable, but failed orthos before even reaching 3 minutes. But then again, dram settings were at auto.

Settings to change:
VCore: 1.4
DRAM Div.: 133Mhz
FSB: 240-250

And pioneer, I am going to download that when i get home. You said it should predict how high of an OC I should get with my system?


----------



## pez

ugh double post







.


----------



## Blitz6804

No. If you set the RAM to 133 and the FSB to 266, RAM will be at 177.

Again: RAM_speed = FSB * RAM_r / CPU_r = 266 * 133 / 200 = 176.9 ~ DDR 354

The 1:1 ratio only exists when the RAM is set to "200."

The program will do the math I just did above for you.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Hmmm, so in theory, if I set RAM to 133, and FSB to 266, it's at a 1:1 ratio? Also, when I've done this before, i think my bios will stop and tell me to lower the cpu frequency. So when I get home, I'll see what happens when I try 133 and fsb 250. I've put it on 250 and it ran pretty stable, but failed orthos before even reaching 3 minutes. But then again, dram settings were at auto.

Settings to change:
VCore: 1.4
DRAM Div.: 133Mhz
FSB: 240-250

And pioneer, I am going to download that when i get home. You said it should predict how high of an OC I should get with my system?

No that is not correct. A 1:1 ratio would be having your RAM set to 200. So if you went to 266MHz on the HT clock (FSB), that's what your RAM is at too (or DDR533). This is the EXACT reason why we use a RAM divider. MOST DDR1 RAM doesn't have the ability to reach the speeds that our processors can.

Those settings that you have listed there...all depend on your particular system. They may work, they may not. But they do look like they MAY help with stability







. Another thing to try is limiting your RAM timings to 3-3-3-8-2T or similar...just to help eliminate RAM as being your suspect.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
No. If you set the RAM to 133 and the FSB to 266, RAM will be at 177.

Again: RAM_speed = FSB * RAM_r / CPU_r = 266 * 133 / 200 = 176.9 ~ DDR 354

The 1:1 ratio only exists when the RAM is set to "200."

The program will do the math I just did above for you.

Just another example of my point







. The 1:1 ratio is the exact same thing as the "divider" or 200MHz. And you typically don't want a Socket 939 to be on a 1:1 ratio unless you have GOOD RAM and a high multiplier to work with.


----------



## pez

Ahh ok, now I'm excited to get home and try this. So theoretically you guys think i could get 2.5 off setting my vcore up a tad and then settings ram to 133?

Also, since I've got the attention of you guys, I plan to keep this rig for a while longer now that I've revived it w/ a dual core (ty joe







). So you guys think I could get away with a hd 4850 or 9800gtx/gtx+ with a 1680x1050 screen? I know I asked you this joe, but I want to transfer my upcoming PSU and vid card from this rig (in maybe 6 months to a year) to the one I'll build.


----------



## Blitz6804

1680x1050 you can get away with a 3850. I know, I have done it myself.

A 48x0 will give you some growing room though.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Ahh ok, now I'm excited to get home and try this. So theoretically you guys think i could get 2.5 off setting my vcore up a tad and then settings ram to 133?

Also, since I've got the attention of you guys, I plan to keep this rig for a while longer now that I've revived it w/ a dual core (ty joe







). So you guys think I could get away with a hd 4850 or 9800gtx/gtx+ with a 1680x1050 screen? I know I asked you this joe, but I want to transfer my upcoming PSU and vid card from this rig (in maybe 6 months to a year) to the one I'll build.


I can say WITHOUT A DOUBT that a HD4850 would definitely be a good upgrade and that your PSU will handle it fine. Take a look at my sig rig....I've ran a 4850 on it, and I noticed increases in 3Dmark going from my card to that 4850. So I say go for it.

But get that overclock sorted out first. The CPU will definitely bottleneck it to a degree until its got a decent overclock on it.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I can say WITHOUT A DOUBT that a HD4850 would definitely be a good upgrade and that your PSU will handle it fine. Take a look at my sig rig....I've ran a 4850 on it, and I noticed increases in 3Dmark going from my card to that 4850. So I say go for it.

But get that overclock sorted out first. The CPU will definitely bottleneck it to a degree until its got a decent overclock on it.


oooo lol I didn't even notice you had the same PSU as me. Wow. It's only rated a combined 260 or 280 watts on both 12v rails (~23 amps), and that's fine? My only con about the psu is that it's loud. Also, what's the gn in the model number mean on yours?

EDIT: NVM I just saw it's because it's the green version. My only con is that it only has 2xsata connectors.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I trust CPUz to tell me what is set, not the BIOS. Sometimes the BIOS shows the default clock speeds and thats it....othertimes it shows the overclocked and set settings. It all depends on your BIOS,


I would just like to point out that it depends solely on the BIOS. I've had some BIOS's that were spot on with the voltages (in regards to the PSU rails). You can't always go by what the software is listing but in Pez's case the BIOS is apparently not accurate at all.

Like Pio said, it all depends on the BIOS but you can't always go by the software. Heck the best way to measure Vcore would be a multimeter









Good luck


----------



## pez

Ok, pioneer. I downloaded your tool you provided and cpuz says that DRAM Freq is 194.2Mhz. When I enter 233 to the top box then 10 into the multi box and 166Mhz as the divider, it says DRAM Freq is 194.166667 and cpu freq is 2330Mhz. So I'm assuming that means I have a 166 divider currently from auto settings from bios. So what does this mean I need to do?

Ok, set it to 133mhz and x4 htt and 241 and 250 fsb and once it came up with a kernel error (250) and the second bsod'ed (241) those timings you have me (3-3-3-8-2T). Mine is in this order:

Tcl: 2.5
Tras: 8T
Trcd: 4T
Trp: 2T
Trrd: 2T

Could you do a bit of translating? What needs to be changed to what?


----------



## Blitz6804

RAM is listed as tCL-tRCD-tRP-tRAS-tCR-tRC-tRFC usually. Thus, 3-3-3-8-2T would be, in your case:

tCL: 3T
tRAS: 8T
tRCD: 3T
tRP: 3T
tRRD: unk

Where "unk" is I do not know what that setting should be. I always leave that one as whatever the BIOS sets it to. If you have changed it, clearing the CMOS or "loading optimized defaults" will restore it.


----------



## pez

Ok, thank you for that. I didn't touch any of it in fear that I would screw it up. Just finished reformatting, but installing the updates. I'm still waiting for pioneer to post his specs from his PSU, because I think one version had one 12v rail and the other (mine) with 2 12v rails.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes, that PSU came in two flavors. One is a single 34A Rail, and the other is a 16/18 dual-rail configuration. Pioneer's is the dual-rail model.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Yes, that PSU came in two flavors. One is a single 34A Rail, and the other is a 16/18 dual-rail configuration. Pioneer's is the dual-rail model.

Ahh, that's good to know, that's the one I have. One question, it's only about 23A on the 12v rails total...how did he run an hd 4850 stable? I'm most likely only going to go 8800gt, but I thought even the 8800gt's needed 24A.


----------



## Blitz6804

People claim that 3850s need 30+ A. I refuse to believe that. My card runs happily on 19 A. According to ATI, a 4850, like a 3850, requires only one 75 W (6.25 A) power connector.

You wouldn't happen to know the underwriter's laboratory number would you? It will be on your power supply's voltage chart under or near a backwards RU. I tried looking it up on Newegg but the picture is too small.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Ahh, that's good to know, that's the one I have. One question, it's only about 23A on the 12v rails total...how did he run an hd 4850 stable? I'm most likely only going to go 8800gt, but I thought even the 8800gt's needed 24A.

It will handle it JUST fine. My 8800GTS 512 requires more power than a 4850 does...and I've been running it just happily for 6+ months now. Don't even sweat it. Apevia makes "budget" parts....and they're really not all that great. BUT...it will last until you can afford to upgrade it to something more decent.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


It will handle it JUST fine. My 8800GTS 512 requires more power than a 4850 does...and I've been running it just happily for 6+ months now. Don't even sweat it. Apevia makes "budget" parts....and they're really not all that great. BUT...it will last until you can afford to upgrade it to something more decent.


Yeah, I was looking at a corsair 650 or 750, probably just better for me to get a new PSU, eh?


----------



## Blitz6804

I am a firm believer of "why spend money to upgrade if there is no need to."

If you put in a 4850 and the rig isn't stable under load, then maybe consider a bigger PSU. But if it runs without complaint, why waste the money? Save it until later and get a bigger one for when you go mutli-GPU.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I am a firm believer of "why spend money to upgrade if there is no need to."

If you put in a 4850 and the rig isn't stable under load, then maybe consider a bigger PSU. But if it runs without complaint, why waste the money? Save it until later and get a bigger one for when you go mutli-GPU.


Ugh, that is true...how long has pioneer been running his. Mine is going on 1.5 years, but I don't want ot jinx it because the first one I had blew, but this one is different from the first one I had, because the other one didn't have the PCI-E connector. I'm still leaning towards the 8800/9800GT as far as a card, or a 3870 as to even out the bottleneck. What do you guys think? There's two versions of the 3870, too. GDDR3 and GDDR4, anyone that can tell a difference between them?


----------



## Blitz6804

Given my biases, it is better if I do not answer that question. People should be filtering in soon who would be willing to. *Pokes Joe, Thlnks, and Pioneer.*


----------



## pez

Ahh, ok, I would absolutely love it if I really didn't need to upgrade my PSU, as this money I've been saving for one could go for a 8800gt, which is essentially the same cost as the PSU I want. I guess my only complaint for it is it's lack of more sata connectors.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Ugh, that is true...how long has pioneer been running his. Mine is going on 1.5 years, but I don't want ot jinx it because the first one I had blew, but this one is different from the first one I had, because the other one didn't have the PCI-E connector. I'm still leaning towards the 8800/9800GT as far as a card, or a 3870 as to even out the bottleneck. What do you guys think? There's two versions of the 3870, too. GDDR3 and GDDR4, anyone that can tell a difference between them?


I've been running my sig PSU since I built this computer 2.5 years ago. It started out housing my rig, 1GB of RAM, and an x2 3800+ Manny...along with a 7600GT for a GPU. I then upgraded to SLI'd 8600GTS's, then my 8800GTS 512. And this PSU has stuck with me this far







. Like I've been saying, I'd skip the PSU this time around, and go for a new GPU. Your PSU SHOULD handle it just fine.

As for what GPU...the 4850 would be hands down the best card you'll get in that price category right now. It beats out my 8800GTS 512 in my sig with my card overclocked, and the 4850 at stock clocks. If it was my money...that'd be the card I'd be choosing right now. And again, your PSU should handle it just fine.


----------



## pez

Ahhh, yeah I guess that's what I'll do, though I hope this one doens't blow like the last. I've heard apevia has good models and some bad. Man I was gonna go 8800gt, but now I'm really tempted for a 4850.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Ahhh, yeah I guess that's what I'll do, though I hope this one doens't blow like the last. I've heard apevia has good models and some bad. Man I was gonna go 8800gt, but now I'm really tempted for a 4850.

Well the 4850 is about 10% better than my card, which in turn is about 10% better than an 8800GT 512MB. So you decide which is the better card







.

And like Blitz said...if your PSU doesn't appear to cut it (massive voltage drops and spikes, etc)...then you know what to do next.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Not to be a wet blanket, but I advocate the opposite approach: I typically advise people to not skimp on the PSU, especially for an overclocked machine. Why? It's probably the one single component in your system that, if it goes bad on you, there's a great chance it will take down other parts of the PC with it.

The bigger the load you anticipate on putting on the machine, the stouter the PSU has to be. But don't overspend; instead, spend wisely.







Good research, patience, and luck will yield great bargains.

Blitz made a great suggestion: Seek out the UL number printed on the PSU. This will tell you who the real manufacturer of the unit you're interested in. PSUs are often re-branded by the vendor, but the truth is always in the UL number. For example, Corsair does NOT build its own PSUs. Their units are made by Seasonic and CWT (which manufacturer depends on which model).


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Not to be a wet blanket, but I advocate the opposite approach: I typically advise people to not skimp on the PSU, especially for an overclocked machine. Why? It's probably the one single component in your system that, if it goes bad on you, there's a great chance it will take down other parts of the PC with it.

The bigger the load you anticipate on putting on the machine, the stouter the PSU has to be. But don't overspend; instead, spend wisely.







Good research, patience, and luck will yield great bargains.

Blitz made a great suggestion: Seek out the UL number printed on the PSU. This will tell you who the real manufacturer of the unit you're interested in. PSUs are often re-branded by the vendor, but the truth is always in the UL number. For example, Corsair does NOT build its own PSUs. Their units are made by Seasonic and CWT (which manufacturer depends on which model).

Ahh, well I kinda still decided on going for a new psu, either tx650 or 750 by corsair. Though, I wouldn't mind finding a 650 or 750 for ~$100 by some suggestions







.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Ahh, well I kinda still decided on going for a new psu, either tx650 or 750 by corsair. Though, I wouldn't mind finding a 650 or 750 for ~$100 by some suggestions







.

Or if budget is on your mind, the Antec Earthwatts 500w is an absolute GREAT budget PSU. Still made by Seasonic (just like Corsair), but half the price







. Its not as "pretty"...but its still a VERY reliable PSU. If budget is on your mind, and you need a PSU, I'd suggest that over anything.

And hey, with that particular PSU, you may be able to handle getting a card as well within your budget perhaps.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Or if budget is on your mind, the Antec Earthwatts 500w is an absolute GREAT budget PSU. Still made by Seasonic (just like Corsair), but half the price







. Its not as "pretty"...but its still a VERY reliable PSU. If budget is on your mind, and you need a PSU, I'd suggest that over anything.

And hey, with that particular PSU, you may be able to handle getting a card as well within your budget perhaps.

Good good find. Only complaint is that the cables aren't sheathed or w/e it's called, but it's got a max of 34a on both rails and it's $50. How reliable is it? I mean, I know it's antec, but is there a problem that it might have?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Good good find. Only complaint is that the cables aren't sheathed or w/e it's called, but it's got a max of 34a on both rails and it's $50. How reliable is it? I mean, I know it's antec, but is there a problem that it might have?

Negative...no problems at all other than the non-pretty cables. It is a VERY top notch PSU. Best bang per buck out there for PSU's IMO. It'll handle just about any single GPU system out there (except a Q6600 and 9800GX2).


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Negative...no problems at all other than the non-pretty cables. It is a VERY top notch PSU. Best bang per buck out there for PSU's IMO. It'll handle just about any single GPU system out there (except a Q6600 and 9800GX2).

oooo, what about this one? it's $30 off normal and I was just looking at this one not too long ago.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817371015

If it's good, then I might have to order it tommorow.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
oooo, what about this one? it's $30 off normal and I was just looking at this one not too long ago.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817371015

If it's good, then I might have to order it tommorow.

Its a step up from the 500w that's for sure. Its the same line so I'd imagine it'd be fine. If you plan on sticking with single GPU though, I'd just go for the 500w. I think its only $50 ATM.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Its a step up from the 500w that's for sure. Its the same line so I'd imagine it'd be fine. If you plan on sticking with single GPU though, I'd just go for the 500w. I think its only $50 ATM.

Yeah, i think I'll go with the 650 JIC I do go with a more demanding card eventually, and eventually carry this PSU over to my next rig. 20 bucks more isn't that big of a deal







.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Yeah, i think I'll go with the 650 JIC I do go with a more demanding card eventually, and eventually carry this PSU over to my next rig. 20 bucks more isn't that big of a deal







.

Alrighty then







. Good luck!


----------



## GuardianOdin

PC Power&Cooling for the win! Damn good quality and stable as heck.

Ok, tomorrow is Sat and I'm going to try for a 1200+ HTT. I had some good results with the 8x multiplier, but didn't have time to see if it was stable.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


PC Power&Cooling for the win! Damn good quality and stable as heck.










I have one, and am very happy with it. Got it for a great price, too (if I remember correctly, around $40.00 less than its going market price at the time). I believe it will be one of two parts of my current sig rig that will migrate onto my next big personal build (sometime in late 2009/early 2010, at the earliest).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Ok, tomorrow is Sat and I'm going to try for a 1200+ HTT. I had some good results with the 8x multiplier, but didn't have time to see if it was stable.


Good luck with the tests, G.O.! I have to say, though, that chips with lower multipliers will likely not be as good for higher-than-stock HT Clocks on nF4-based chipsets because the reference clock (HTT, or "FSB") will have to be cranked up so high to get the CPU clock high enough for good system performance. That is one of the advantages of me running an Opty 170; the 10x CPU multiplier will stress the HT Link less than an Opty 165 with its 9x CPU multi.

At any rate, have fun and good luck with the testing! May the gods smile favorably upon thee.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*









I have one, and am very happy with it. Got it for a great price, too (if I remember correctly, around $40.00 less than its going market price at the time). I believe it will be one of two parts of my current sig rig that will migrate onto my next big personal build (sometime in late 2009/early 2010, at the earliest).

Good luck with the tests, G.O.! I have to say, though, that chips with lower multipliers will likely not be as good for higher-than-stock HT Clocks on nF4-based chipsets because the reference clock (HTT, or "FSB") will have to be cranked up so high to get the CPU clock high enough for good system performance. That is one of the advantages of me running an Opty 170; the 10x CPU multiplier will stress the HT Link less than an Opty 165 with its 9x CPU multi.

At any rate, have fun and good luck with the testing! May the gods smile favorably upon thee.










I guess that means my chip is just an odd chip then, huh? Since I can in fact stabilize 1300MHz+ HT Link speeds with the 9x multiplier? Granted that's with only 2GB of RAM...THUS FAR!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I guess that means my chip is just an odd chip then, huh? Since I can in fact stabilize 1300MHz+ HT Link speeds with the 9x multiplier? Granted that's with only 2GB of RAM...THUS FAR!


Some schmuck once said, "When it comes to overclocking, YMMV."


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*









I have one, and am very happy with it. Got it for a great price, too (if I remember correctly, around $40.00 less than its going market price at the time). I believe it will be one of two parts of my current sig rig that will migrate onto my next big personal build (sometime in late 2009/early 2010, at the earliest).

Good luck with the tests, G.O.! I have to say, though, that chips with lower multipliers will likely not be as good for higher-than-stock HT Clocks on nF4-based chipsets because the reference clock (HTT, or "FSB") will have to be cranked up so high to get the CPU clock high enough for good system performance. That is one of the advantages of me running an Opty 170; the 10x CPU multiplier will stress the HT Link less than an Opty 165 with its 9x CPU multi.

At any rate, have fun and good luck with the testing! May the gods smile favorably upon thee.










You have to remember this Expert can hit a very high HTT. I have been able to boot in at 388. It was not stable due to cooling. Ugh! I want that Opty 170 now!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I guess that means my chip is just an odd chip then, huh? Since I can in fact stabilize 1300MHz+ HT Link speeds with the 9x multiplier? Granted that's with only 2GB of RAM...THUS FAR!


yeah, you guys have all the good stuff







[email protected]#$%!&!!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

That no-good thlnk3r has my best chip, in fact!









Just kidding there, thlnk3r.







But it's true. I traded away what turned out to be what has been the best chip I have ever owned. But I do still have a couple more chips that I have never OCed, so maybe I might have another Golden Chip in my collection...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*









That no-good thlnk3r has my best chip, in fact!









Just kidding there, thlnk3r.







But it's true. I traded away what turned out to be what has been the best chip I have ever owned. But I do still have a couple more chips that I have never OCed, so maybe I might have another Golden Chip in my collection...










If you do...I call dibs on that one!

Haha, too late! I called it first!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


If you do...I call dibs on that one!

Haha, too late! I called it first!










shotgun! I called it two months ago...count'em --->2<---


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


shotgun! I called it two months ago...count'em --->2<---










Well I called it 3 months ago







.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Well I called it 3 months ago







.


yeah well......Joe thinks I'm awesome...nuff said


----------



## nategr8ns

OK guys, it's been a long time since I've tried overclocking again, and almost as long since I posted in this thread.
The summer heat is gone! I'm typing this right now from my room which is about 38*C right now. I had to close my window and turn off my fan last night cause I was so cold!

I'm right now at 2.86GHz (albeit idle) 260x11 with a 1040mhz HT. I upped the memory voltage from 2.7 to 2.8 (still safe for these Gskills) but they're only at 205MHz (3-4-4-8-1T which is their 250mhz timings).

Should I run an orthos test now? Or go back and up the memory/lower the timings and run it later? Also, which test? I'm assuming blend...
Orthos Large and Blend failed after 1-2 seconds









Voltage up time!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
OK guys, it's been a long time since I've tried overclocking again, and almost as long since I posted in this thread.
The summer heat is gone! I'm typing this right now from my room which is about 38*C right now. I had to close my window and turn off my fan last night cause I was so cold!

I'm right now at 2.86GHz (albeit idle) 260x11 with a 1040mhz HT. I upped the memory voltage from 2.7 to 2.8 (still safe for these Gskills) but they're only at 205MHz (3-4-4-8-1T which is their 250mhz timings).

Should I run an orthos test now? Or go back and up the memory/lower the timings and run it later? Also, which test? I'm assuming blend...
Orthos Large and Blend failed after 1-2 seconds









Voltage up time!

My GSkill do not like to be under clocked to much.I try to keep them a minimum of 240. Also the DDR500 GSkill like 2.5-2.6Volts 2.7 and above really provide no gains.


----------



## nategr8ns

Well right now they're at ~200mhz, CPU at 2837 (258x11) but I need 1.5V to keep it stable (3 minutes 30 seconds so far on Blend 9).
The voltage is swaying between 1.5 and 1.456 volts, so I think either my power supply isn't up for the job, or the voltage monitoring is screwy.

Temps are 47C and 58C.


----------



## GuardianOdin

It very well could be the PSU "just guessing" I have the same one and I do get so screwy Voltages often. Thats why I'm upgrading to PC Power&Cooling as soon as I can.


----------



## nategr8ns

well 2840 was not stable.
I went back upstairs at 8:27 and my computer clock said 8:07, and the thing was completely frozen. No BSOD though









So now I'm down to 2750, but I think I forgot to turn down the voltage... shoot brb


----------



## boonie2

Well I took the INTEL plunge and bought a Toshiba L-305 Satalite laptop with a core2duo







Please dont chastise me , but the deal was too good to be true







Ill still always keep my 939 tho , "until they pry it from my cold , dead , hands" {Karens selling her rig tho if anyones interested








} --- listed below


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Alrighty then







. Good luck!


Yeah, thanks. I'm gonna order it today







. I'm excited that I'll have this out of the way so I can save up for a new video card







. I also looked on ATI's site of the PSU's they recommend for the 4870x2, and the EA650 is one of the recommended ones.

Thanks to you pioneer I found a good deal +rep







.

Also, pioneer using your tool that you provided, If I have a 166mhz divi and a 240 fsb, theoretically my RAM should be running at 200mhz (full potential of ddr400) right? After this PSU, I'm not going to put money into saving for RAM that's all DDR400. Also tried those timings (3-3-3-8-2t) and my PC locked up while posting, wouldn't post the RAM so I reset the CMOS. I think until I get that DDR400 ram, that I should be fine w/ 2.33ghz.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


Well I took the INTEL plunge and bought a Toshiba L-305 Satalite laptop with a core2duo







Please dont chastise me , but the deal was too good to be true







Ill still always keep my 939 tho , "until they pry it from my cold , dead , hands" {Karens selling her rig tho if anyones interested







} --- listed below


Bah!....Bah!.... Why do you wait to sell that rig when I have no monies







sniff sniff


----------



## Blitz6804

Hey Pez, I know a guy selling some DDR 500 for $70 shipped; maybe you should look into that?

Joe: you're the master of S&M. My latest run failed with 5 minutes to go on the second PSU test. Is this because of an unstable video card most likely? When I run S&M in Vista, should I disable the "eye candy?" Desktop Composition crashed some time in the middle of the FPU test. (That is, Aero Glass because Aero Basic.)


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Hey Pez, I know a guy selling some DDR 500 for $70 shipped; maybe you should look into that?

Joe: you're the master of S&M. My latest run failed with 5 minutes to go on the second PSU test. Is this because of an unstable video card most likely? When I run S&M in Vista, should I disable the "eye candy?" Desktop Composition crashed some time in the middle of the FPU test. (That is, Aero Glass because Aero Basic.)


Ahh my board doesn't support ddr500, only up to ddr400, and the g.skill ddr400 2x1gb kit is only 54 bucks.


----------



## Blitz6804

Mine didn't either; you think that stopped me? All that means is that you lack a 200:250 RAM divider. My DDR 500 ran fine at 200:200 with a 250 FSB. Memory bandwidth was nearly 8000 MBps.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Ahh my board doesn't support ddr500, only up to ddr400, and the g.skill ddr400 2x1gb kit is only 54 bucks.


It does, it's just not listed in the white papers.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


It does, it's just not listed in the white papers.


Yeah, there is a divi in the bios that says 250mhz. So that means I could run it? I would hate to buy it and get all excited and find out I can't run it, or it interferes with a stable oc.

EDIT: Unless the Corsair's on newegg for $80 come back in stock, I'll just go with ddr400. It's not that big of a deal to me that I must have ddr500. Besides, I'm already starting to choose what I'm going to get in my new rig in about a year







.


----------



## Blitz6804

The advantage of DDR500 is that you can run a higher divider. If your motherboard will top out at a 240 HTT, then DDR500 is a great deal. (And when I say top out, I mean that you cannot make it go any higher even with a 5x multiplier and a 200:100 RAM divider.) If you are like Guardian and can go to 380 or so, then DDR500 is no big deal; you have more dividers to play with.


----------



## pez

Yeah the max FSB my motherboard allows is 300 even though this CPU most likely won't reach it.


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, your computer might perform better at 250x9 with DDR 500 (200:200) than 225x10 with DDR 376 (200:166 divider). Granted, with DDR 500 RAM, you could also run 225x10 with DDR 450 (200:200 divider) and just keep pushing it up until it fails. It is nice to have the option in any event.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Joe: you're the master of S&M. My latest run failed with 5 minutes to go on the second PSU test. Is this because of an unstable video card most likely? When I run S&M in Vista, should I disable the "eye candy?" Desktop Composition crashed some time in the middle of the FPU test. (That is, Aero Glass because Aero Basic.)

If the video card is completely at stock, then it's not the video card causing the crash. At least, if it's healthy, it shouldn't be the component causing S&M to fail. I would wager the failure was triggered by a dip in voltage output from the PSU. Beyond a certain tolerance point, i.e., if the voltage drops too low, the test will terminate to protect your equipment.

If the card is overclocked, then it's a fair bet that there's something amiss there. Troubleshooting becomes a little more difficult because you don't quite know if the failure is triggered by the card or a weakness in the PSU (since this component of the stress test stresses both). More speed exacts a heavier load from the PSU, so you can see how the two are related.

Now, as far as the RAM discussions that are going on, in truth all K8s before AM2 *should be* able to support all kinds of 184-pin DDR. DDR500 kits *DO NOT* have a stock speed (i.e., the speed programmed into their SPDs) of 250MHz. That is merely a tested rating by the RAM manufacturer certifying that that kit *should be* able to hit that speed. But what a RAM DIMM's stock speed is is what is programmed in its SPD, which is 200MHz in DDR400 modules. This is convenient because the reference clock (HTT, or "FSB") is also exactly 200MHz at stock. Kits rated at higher than DDR400 also just have a SPD programming of 200MHz as its stock speed. SPD is not 250MHz for these particular kits.









The principal advantage of RAM rated higher than DDR400 is that the manufacturer has certified it should run faster than 200MHz; if it isn't able to run at its certified speed (say, DDR500 because we've been discussing it), it is eligible for a return to the manufacturer on the grounds that it does not meet its advertised performance potential. This is partly how a Corsair rep explained it to me when I RMAed a busted DDR500 kit with them a couple of years ago. That kit never ever hit 250MHz, no matter what I tried.

As a close to this little tale, that very same Corsair DDR500 kit is proof of the caveat that S&M can break fragile parts.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes, the video card is overclocked. The power supply should be sufficient; it has ran this GPU with a more power-hungry CPU in the past. I will try backing off the GPU OC, since I wasn't sure that is stable anyway, and try S&M again.

Doing some research online seems to indicate that S&M is incompatible with Vista 64-bit, and only marginally functional under Vista 32-bit. My options then are either install XP 32-bit to test stability, find another stability tester, or pester the creator to release S&M 1.9.2 that IS compatible with Vista 64-bit.

Another update: You can get S&M to run in Vista. If you want to run S&M, you need not just run as Admin as you would often think. You must also disable Visual Themes and Desktop Composition. IMPORTANT: DO NOT RUN UNDER XP SP2 COMPATIBILITY MODE. Doing so causes Cache Level 1, test #2 or #3 fail. This occurred even at stock speeds. Running as described I am now just about done with memory test 1 of 4.

And I forgot: disconnect any ReadyBoost drives. S&M will sit there detecting them indefinitely.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Update on my rig:
Pioneer says SCREW IT for stability for right now. My rig is stable enough that it doesn't crash on me doing WHATEVER I want to do...so that's stable enough for now.

I think my problem is the mis-matched 1GB sticks. I'm working on a deal now for another 2x1GB Corsair XMS kit so I can run all 4GB matching sticks. That should help considerably. After that happens, I'll try for stability again.

With the current setup it'll pass Orthos for 6 hours roughly. But somewhere between 5-6 hours+, it'll crash and give me a "stop error" within Orthos (no BSOD, just Orthos error). I don't know WHAT the problem could be other than the mis-matched sticks.

So after that's all said and done, Froggy will be trying 2x1GB AData DDR400 and 2x1GB OCZ DDR500. If that fails in HER rig too....then I'll get her a matching kit of the AData sticks...and the DDR500's will go up for sale. DDR500 is over-rated anyway







.

I figured I'd share that with you guys. Image uploaded!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Ahh my board doesn't support ddr500, only up to ddr400, and the g.skill ddr400 2x1gb kit is only 54 bucks.

Actually I'll bet money your board could take advantage of DDR500. And just a hint hint







.....I'll more than likely be selling some OCZ Platinum DDR500 2x1GB sticks here VERY soon. And if anybody is interested in this club, they get a special "friend price"







. Thank you Blitz for that wonderful idea. However I won't be going into the details just yet on that adventure...but anybody that's interested in upgrading to DDR500...keep your eyes open on my posts here.


----------



## boonie2




----------



## nategr8ns

Nice work Pio! Do you really use your computer for more than 5 hours straight anyway?








I think my processor tops out at 2750mhz, I just can't get it stable at 2.8ghz.
I guess when I have some free time, I can work on the FSB and/or HT, and maybe the RAM.


----------



## Blitz6804

Not much of a gamer eh Nate? Some nights I play Call of Duty 4 for 12 hours straight; I suck at it, but I do it anyway.


----------



## nategr8ns

Wow... Actually I am a gamer, but I can't play one game for that long.
A few hours of Diablo 2 or Team Fortress 2, and maybe some guitar hero







.


----------



## mirunit




----------



## Blitz6804

Welcome to the club mirunit. I will be adding you to the offsite roster within an hour; Joe will add you to the onsite within a day.

I see you are rocking the undervolt; ever considered an overclock? My Toledo could hit 2.75 GHz pushing the volts you are now.


----------



## GuardianOdin

OK I decided to use the ODD dividers on this one

HT 2.5
Multiplier 8.5
RAM 133

I have not tested for stability just yet. But the numbers look good and boy does Windows load much faster. I timed a 45 second reboot from pressing restart back to my desktop. I'm going to try a few games before benching. Here is a pic of CPUZ and Everest.


----------



## Blitz6804

I've always heard that K8s dislike non-integral dividers. I look forward to your results GO!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I've always heard that K8s dislike non-integral dividers. I look forward to your results GO!


That is very true. I could never really get it to work on the Ultra-D Mobo. But this Expert seems ok with it other than CPUZ not liking the numbers. I can't get it to show up on the app. As Joe said a few posts back...much snappier for sure with a higher HTT.

It seems K8 (at least for mine) likes to be above an of HTT 700. Once I booted in at 800+ things have been responding mush faster.


----------



## Blitz6804

DFI makes some high-end boards I have to say. As an update, mirunit is now on the offsite roster!


----------



## GuardianOdin

WOOT! S&M Stable!

I goofed up and started the test again after it already ran.







I took a nap while it was running and clicked the wrong button when I woke up. lol


----------



## Blitz6804

I have done that more times than I care to count. I am updating the roster for you now.

And by the way... S&M stable apparently doesn't mean as such. My rig passed S&M last night with flying colors. Today, I tried to install a newer southbrdige driver, and I got an IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL BSOD. It is only the CPU that can give me that right? Not the RAM or something? I am hesitant to give it another 25 mV.

Could it be the northbridge maybe? I am still running that stock voltage.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I have done that more times than I care to count. I am updating the roster for you now.

And by the way... S&M stable apparently doesn't mean as such. My rig passed S&M last night with flying colors. Today, I tried to install a newer southbrdige driver, and I got an IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL BSOD. It is only the CPU that can give me that right? Not the RAM or something? I am hesitant to give it another 25 mV.

Could it be the northbridge maybe? I am still running that stock voltage.

not sure to be honest, but I get that a lot with my videocard drivers. It doesn't always specify "Nvidia" If it's not your videocard, then more than likley it's an issue with the newly installed drivers and your RAM


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, I just lowered the PCI-E slot voltage and PCI-E frequency from my S&M run on that boot up. (I figured since the video card OC was unstable anyway, why bother?) I guess I will be putting it back up next reboot.

For now, I had just lowed my HTT by 5 MHz.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Well, I just lowered the PCI-E slot voltage and PCI-E frequency from my S&M run on that boot up. (I figured since the video card OC was unstable anyway, why bother?) I guess I will be putting it back up next reboot.

For now, I had just lowed my HTT by 5 MHz.


I have always read that changing the PCI-E slot voltage and PCI-E frequency was a bad thing to do. I tried on mine and had some goofy things happen. I changed it to default and all the problems stopped.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


I have always read that changing the PCI-E slot voltage and PCI-E frequency was a bad thing to do. I tried on mine and had some goofy things happen. I changed it to default and all the problems stopped.


Guardian, I have heard the same as well. Matter of fact changing it doesn't do anything but supposedly it helps with "stabilizing" an overclock.

Mirunit, welcome to the club









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Doing some research online seems to indicate that S&M is incompatible with Vista 64-bit, and only marginally functional under Vista 32-bit. My options then are either install XP 32-bit to test stability, find another stability tester, or pester the creator to release S&M 1.9.2 that IS compatible with Vista 64-bit.


Blitz, I can almost guarantee you that your overclocks would be a heck of a lot more stable in XP then in Vista. Vista is so picky when it comes to overclocking. Blitz stop being a beta tester









Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I noticed. Desktop Composition likes to crash.

The question is, was it only chance that it happened to BSOD, or was it because I changed the PCI-E wattage and frequency? I guess this proves what Joe always says:

The only stable computer is one that is off.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I noticed. Desktop Composition likes to crash.

The question is, was it only chance that it happened to BSOD, or was it because I changed the PCI-E wattage and frequency? I guess this proves what Joe always says:

The only stable computer is one that is off.


Blitz6804, is there anything listed in the Event Viewer around the time it BSOD?

If anything changing the PCI-E wattage may help stability of your video card OC but you mainly need to change the amount of voltage that the GPU needs.

Just the other day my machine locked up while I was playing MP3's and browsing OCN. Supposedly my machine is Orthos/OCCT stable. Sometimes lockups/crashes just happen. It's one of those things that cannot be explained. I've had two lockups in the past 2 years with this OC









Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I have done that more times than I care to count. I am updating the roster for you now.

And by the way... S&M stable apparently doesn't mean as such. My rig passed S&M last night with flying colors. Today, I tried to install a newer southbrdige driver, and I got an IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL BSOD. It is only the CPU that can give me that right? Not the RAM or something? I am hesitant to give it another 25 mV.

Could it be the northbridge maybe? I am still running that stock voltage.


I concur with G.O.; I'd wager it's a new driver doing that.

As far as I'm concerned, though, it's very goofy to blame a stress test program for any machine's instability. Why? Machines are variable factors, in that they are ever changing (whether in terms of software or hardware, or simply through wear and tear). The stress test itself doesn't change its parameters, though. It's a set, consistent and constant standard.

Ornery Joe might say it's stupid to blame a stress test for stress test failures. But he's on furlough.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, I can almost guarantee you that your overclocks would be a heck of a lot more stable in XP then in Vista. Vista is so picky when it comes to overclocking. *Blitz stop being a beta tester*









Good luck












Although, thlnk3r, I'll very soon be doing some Vista tests myself. No actual time-table for this yet, but it's going to happen.









Finally, welcome to the Club, mirunit!







You are now on our formal roster.










Okay. Back to football and server-building!


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, sure, it would make sense to blame a newly installed driver. Here is the rub: the PC BSODed when I went to install it. I just double clicked the self-extracting executable, and it crashed mid-extraction. No installation had yet taken place.

And no, nothing interesting in my event log prior to crash.


----------



## iandroo888

well. last nite i was just screwin around with my fx-60. mounted tuniq tower on. i couldnt get anything except 200 x 13 stable >.> lol.


----------



## Blitz6804

I know this will deserve a facepalm, but what did you try? What motherboard are you on? Just touched the multiplier or the HTT as well? Did you remember to lower HT multiplier if the latter? What RAM are you running? What RAM divider are you running it on? How much voltage are you giving the CPU, the RAM, and Northbridge?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Well, sure, it would make sense to blame a newly installed driver. Here is the rub: the PC BSODed when I went to install it. I just double clicked the self-extracting executable, and it crashed mid-extraction. No installation had yet taken place.

And no, nothing interesting in my event log prior to crash.

Then something else is amiss.









I forget: Did the rig pass S&M at the same settings previously?


----------



## Blitz6804

No. The only difference between the S&M setting and the crashing installer is the PCI-E wattage and frequency. When it was S&M stable, it was 150 W and 105 MHz. When it crashed extracting the installer it was the stock 75 W and 100 MHz.

For all I know, it was dumb luck that it passed S&M. Sure it was on paper stable, but it would do funny things. That is, about 90% of my boots did not recognize the ReadyBoost drive until I removed it and reinserted it. Dropping the HTT by 5 MHz seems to fix that; I am 3-for-3 so far.

My question is, what would stabilize it? More VCore? Northbridge voltage? Loosening the RAM?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Don't know, buddy. At which point of the test is it failing?


----------



## Blitz6804

This is the funny thing... S&M passes. Gets through every and all tests.

Crashed when I loaded an installer. Occasionally Windows Desktop Composition crashes. That MUST be turned off or S&M will not load at all. I think it has something to do with that I am in 64-bit windows more than anything else. It wants to install the driver but cannot because of driver signing requirement.


----------



## pez

K guys, I'm running into a problem. I booted my computer at 2390 w/ the ht multi at x4. I ran orthos for about 30-40 minutes just to check if it was somewhat stable. It passed. Thing is, the first time, I started playing CSS and i kept getting this runtime error. So I restarted steam, same thing, well I restarted the computer, next. I didn't run orthos this time, but I wanted to run the game to see if when i came back after about 20 minutes it would have the same error. Well instead of that error, I got a windows recovery error (bsod most likely). Now I'm at a loss. Is this the RAM? and you think if I take out the ddr333 ram just for checking stability purposes it would get rid of this problem, because in cpuz my ram was running at 199.2 and 200?


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, you are most likely exceeding the capability of the RAM. Either pull the DDR 333 or drop the RAM divider to 133 from its present 166.

Orthos needs 8-12 hours to actually consider a PC as "stable."

(Also, shut off auto-restart on system failure so we can read the BSOD.)


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Yeah, you are most likely exceeding the capability of the RAM. Either pull the DDR 333 or drop the RAM divider to 133 from its present 166.

Orthos needs 8-12 hours to actually consider a PC as "stable."

(Also, shut off auto-restart on system failure so we can read the BSOD.)

Yeah, I'll have to pull the ram out ot do a test tommorow. My other stability tests have been all stable with just a bit over 8 hours, but usually if I've been stable for the first 30 minutes, I haven't seen one not stable.


----------



## pez

Ok, I just took out the DDR 333. I put my FSB to 240 and the first time it would take for every to get a signal. I then changed the divider to 166 and that made it boot normally, BUT it was showing artifacts (video problems again) on the vista loading bar and such, so I restarted, and it's fine for now. Also, I don't even notice a difference from 1 gig to 2 gigs of RAM even in vista ultimate. I guess I'll have to bench a game to see if that's where the performance falls.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I know this will deserve a facepalm, but what did you try? What motherboard are you on? Just touched the multiplier or the HTT as well? Did you remember to lower HT multiplier if the latter? What RAM are you running? What RAM divider are you running it on? How much voltage are you giving the CPU, the RAM, and Northbridge?

Processor: AMD Athlon 64 FX-60
Motherboard: DFI LanPartyUT Ultra-D (Thanks GuardianOdin)
Ram: TeamXtreme DDR500 2x512MB (Thanks Mysterious Person )


















































these settings are currently unstable. i went to sleep after a few trials and didnt change it back. i had it running stock 2.6 at 200x13 with 1.325 or 1.35 vcore.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Try these settings

CPU VID Control 1.475 Volts

CPC:Enabled
Tcl: 3
Trcd:4
Tras:8
Trp:4
Trc:10-12
Trfc:12-17
Trrd:2
Twr:3
Twtr:2
Trwt:3
Tref:3120

Write recovery time: 03 (this can be a tricky one)


----------



## iandroo888

trying now.

*edit*

failed 15 seconds in. do u know the max speeds of HTT and ram? if u do, at least i only need to find out cpu's.. lol


----------



## Blitz6804

Lazy...

OCing is a labor of love; it is an art not a science. Anyone not willing to put the time into it really should not be overclocking aside of maybe any built in "1, 2, 3, 5, or 10% overclocking" options found on some motherboards.


----------



## pez

GUYS! Good news. Told you guys I took out the DDR333 RAM and left the DDR400 and now I have 2.5Ghz stable! Proof you ask? Of course:

I know it's not that great, but i'm excited, as my goal was 2.4ghz.


----------



## Blitz6804

Congrats pez. I will update you on the offsite likely late tonight, or far more likely, tomorrow. I have been up now the past 23 hours, and today is "heck day." Classes are 9-12, 2-3:30, and 5:30-8:30. Forgive me if I pass out when I get home tonight around 9:15.


----------



## thlnk3r

Pez, congrats on the OC









It's always nice when you reach a goal!


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Pez, congrats on the OC









It's always nice when you reach a goal!

Yeah, it is, I feel very accomplished. One question: My memory divider is set at 133 so that the ram is running at ddr333 speed, should I still be able to overclock maybe even to 2.6ghz? I even have a perfect 1000 on the htt with x4







.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
My memory divider is set at 133 so that the ram is running at ddr333 speed, should I still be able to overclock maybe even to 2.6ghz? I even have a perfect 1000 on the htt with x4







.

Pez, the only way to find out is to try it out









You will probably have to change the HT multiplier if you run into instability. All though running high HT isn't common it is possible (see pioneer's OC). The divider that you have on your memory now can probably stay the same. You have plenty of room for 2.6Ghz. On average, the Manchester core will start requiring more voltage when you get close to 2.7 - 2.8Ghz.

Good luck buddy


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Pez, the only way to find out is to try it out









You will probably have to change the HTT multiplier if you run into instability. All though running high HTT isn't common it is possible (see pioneer's OC). The divider that you have on your memory now can probably stay the same. You have plenty of room for 2.6Ghz. On average, the Manchester core will start requiring more voltage when you get close to 2.7 - 2.8Ghz.

Good luck buddy









I think I tried 266 before on my single core and my BIOS gave me a warning and told me to change my CPU freq. That was with an upped vcore, so what else would've been wrong?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
I think I tried 266 before on my single core and my BIOS gave me a warning and told me to change my CPU freq. That was with an upped vcore, so what else would've been wrong?

Pez, it could have been many things. More then likely your memory frequency was probably too high which the BIOS saw as "unstable". That explains for the POST error. The best way to test memory stability is with Memtest. This will allow you to test the stability before booting into the OS and possibility avoiding data corruption. I prefer to run tests 5 and 8 each for at least 20 minutes.

Good luck


----------



## pez

Heh, there's no data to corrupt as I just reformatted, and everything is backed up, so I'll be fine, i'm gonna probably go to 64 bit vista once I get the new RAM. I'm gonna try a jump to 266 fsb when I get home to see if it will even boot past the POST. 2.5 was kinda my dream oc, and I reached it. If I make it to 2.7, I'll feel like god







. Hopefully I'll be able to do 2.7 on stock vcore too. I also think my AS5 is settling in nicely now too as temps in the past few days under 8+ hour orthos tests have gone from 62 to 60 to 59 then 58, and now the highest I'm seeing is 57C and idle is even staying 44 on core #0 and 39 on core #1.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


I also think my AS5 is settling in nicely now too as temps in the past few days under 8+ hour orthos tests have gone from 62 to 60 to 59 then 58, and now the highest I'm seeing is 57C and idle is even staying 44 on core #0 and 39 on core #1.


Pez, well please keep up updated. I have seen maybe only one or two Manchester OC's that were on stock voltage. That core for some reason requires so much Vcore once you hit the 2.7Ghz mark.

Those temps are very nice for stock cooling









Correction: I had to edit my post above (#7374). I accidentally put HTT (reference clock speed) instead of HT (hypertransport).

Good luck


----------



## pez

Ok, well I'm able to start up with same default 1.35 vcore and 260 fsb. I tried 266 and the first time I recieved a BSOD and the second time I got to the little windows logo for vista and it made some sort of a sound glitch. I'm gonna go do a few things and let orthos run for ~30 minutes to check it's short term stablility. Hopefully all goes well







. Also as far as this OC or even 2.5 being stable, you guys think I could get away with the HD4850 and 22" monitor combo?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hey pez, I had that chip running steady @ 2.5GHz for its entire life when I had her.







At that speed, it was plenty good for what I needed her to do.

An HD 4850 + 22" monitor would work well with a rig at a stable 2.5GHz.









Have fun, and good luck.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Hey pez, I had that chip running steady @ 2.5GHz for its entire life when I had her.







At that speed, it was plenty good for what I needed her to do.

An HD 4850 + 22" monitor would work well with a rig at a stable 2.5GHz.









Have fun, and good luck.









Yeah, that's good to hear







. I tried 260 on orthos and when I came back from after about 10 minutes It was on a BSOD screen and it stayed this time. It had the code of something around 0x000000101 and then another one of them (out of maybe 5) was 0x000000x6 or something (should've written it down, I know).


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Ok, well I'm able to start up with same default 1.35 vcore and 260 fsb. I tried 266 and the first time I recieved a BSOD and the second time I got to the little windows logo for vista and it made some sort of a sound glitch. I'm gonna go do a few things and let orthos run for ~30 minutes to check it's short term stablility. Hopefully all goes well







. Also as far as this OC or even 2.5 being stable, you guys think I could get away with the HD4850 and 22" monitor combo?

Pez, at 260HTT what is the memory frequency sitting at? Have you tried touching the Vcore at all? Perhaps a slight bump may reward with some nice results.

The native res of a 22" screen is 1680x1050. A 4850 should be able to play games at that resolution. You may have to drop some of the eye candy for your machine to keep up. These new cards are powerful beasts, it's very hard to tax them out. A 3800+ doesn't even come close. My 170 at 3Ghz is too slow









Good luck


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pez, at 260HTT what is the memory frequency sitting at? Have you tried touching the Vcore at all? Perhaps a slight bump may reward with some nice results.

The native res of a 22" screen is 1680x1050. A 4850 should be able to play games at that resolution. You may have to drop some of the eye candy for your machine to keep up. These new cards are powerful beasts, it's very hard to tax them out. A 3800+ doesn't even come close. My 170 at 3Ghz is too slow









Good luck


Yeah, I upped the vcore to 1.4. One thing I noticed, if I went to 260 or 266 when my POST shows the HW Monitor and it goes through the Verifying DMI Pool thing, it wouldn't have success (though nothing was going on while using the computer), but on 250 and 255 it has.

Yeah, I was hoping the 4850 for me would be able to handle cod4 and maybe a few newer games. Do you think I'll be able to max out COD4 with at least 40fps on that res w/ my computer?

EDIT: oh yeah, I'm on 2.553Ghz now and it was orthos stable for my small hour and a half stability test.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Yeah, I upped the vcore to 1.4. One thing I noticed, if I went to 260 or 266 when my POST shows the HW Monitor and it goes through the Verifying DMI Pool thing, it wouldn't have success (though nothing was going on while using the computer), but on 250 and 255 it has.

Yeah, I was hoping the 4850 for me would be able to handle cod4 and maybe a few newer games. Do you think I'll be able to max out COD4 with at least 40fps on that res w/ my computer?

EDIT: oh yeah, I'm on 2.553Ghz now and it was orthos stable for my small hour and a half stability test.


Pez, can you post some CPU-Z screenshots of your current OC at 2553Mhz? Please include each tab if you can.

The 4850 will be able to handle COD4 with no problems. I'm sure you'll be getting at least 40FPS at that resolution. There is one setting in the Video options that I disabled and it gave me a huge boost in performance(arg sorry I can't remember the option).

Good luck


----------



## pez

Comin' right up...and done:

When under 266 the DRAM Freq was around 177.


----------



## thlnk3r

Pez, try loosening your memory timings a bit. Your tRP looks pretty tight. Try 2.5-4-3-8 or even 3-4-3-8. Keep your command rate at 2T. Are these sticks of memory a matching set?

Good luck


----------



## pez

Yes, the ddr400 is a matching set, also the ddr333 was a matching set too. I'll try those timings soon. Let me get my pliers ready to reset my CMOS







. I'm quite happy with even 2.5, but I'm doing it so I can say, "Yeah, I overclocked that chip as much as I could. And it pwned, too!"







.

I also noticed: I ran the video stress test in CSS and actually got 1 fps more after taking out that other RAM then before (111.57 AVG Fps).

EDIT: Oh noezz!1! my next post will be....6.6.6.







.

EDIT2: And to think, I thought this board had no OC'ing options at first. LOL. It's come along way considering it's got more than a 25% OC on it







.

EDIT3: Heh, I just remembered. I know you guys said that HD4850 would be good, but what about it's competitor the 9800GTX+? Price isn't a factor as far as though cards, but just curious.


----------



## Blitz6804

I can run CoD 4 at 2.2 GHz with a 3850 at 1680x1050 with decent FPS. You must shut off Anti-Aliasing, Soften Smoke Edges, and Shadows. Shutting off Specular Map is optional; makes a 20% difference in FPS at a cost of losing the "ooh!" factor.

(EDIT: The point was that if a 3850 can do it, a 4850 certainly can.)


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I can run CoD 4 at 2.2 GHz with a 3850 at 1680x1050 with decent FPS. You must shut off Anti-Aliasing, Soften Smoke Edges, and Shadows. Shutting off Specular Map is optional; makes a 20% difference in FPS at a cost of losing the "ooh!" factor.


Yeah, the specular map is actually disctracting when you look into your sites and everything around you is blurred out instead of the same. I know it's more realistice, but when I turned it on, i was like wow, what the eff. What FPS do you get blitz?


----------



## Blitz6804

At 2.2 GHz and the resolution you asked, I can get mid-40s with the options as selected.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


At 2.2 GHz and the resolution you asked, I can get mid-40s with the options as selected.


Yeah, AA and AF in cod4 when off doesn't look as bad as other games, although I'll have my CPU at a faster clock speed and a better card, so i would say I could expect around 50, eh? Heh, this is my next goal. I told my brother that by X-mas, I'd show him that COD4 on a 20-22" screen would be smooth on my computer







. I'm excited now








.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well speaking of COD4...take a look at my machine. At even stock clocks on everything, I can 100% MAX OUT COD4 with 16xQAA and 16xAF at 1440x900...with ALL of the settings turned all the way up. And my framerates GENEARLLY won't drop below 50 at all stock. At my overclocked speeds I won't drop below 75 FPS. So yes...a 4850 would be able to 100% MAX OUT COD4 at 1650x1080...I can almost promise it.

And your chip at 2.5GHz will obviously be slower than competitor chips at the same clocks. However you will NOT notice the difference in game....I promise.

However I would suggest you get a matching set of 1GB sticks of memory. That would help TREMENDOUSLY.


----------



## thlnk3r

Thanks Blitz for clarifying on the COD4 settings.

I ran 2x AA with everything on High but with a few of the options disabled (mainly the ones Blitz listed) at 1440x900 resolution and I was pretty consistent between 60 - 100. This was with a 3850. The engine in that game is pretty amazing. Gotta love the exploding cars









EDIT: Pio running COD4 at 16xQAA and 16xAF









Good luck


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Thanks Blitz for clarifying on the COD4 settings.

I ran 2x AA with everything on High but with a few of the options disabled (mainly the ones Blitz listed) at 1440x900 resolution and I was pretty consistent between 60 - 100. This was with a 3850. The engine in that game is pretty amazing. Gotta love the exploding cars









EDIT: Pio running COD4 at 16xQAA and 16xAF









Good luck


It's the best when you get to the night vision level and get to rain down some good ol hellfire! I believe it's the C130


----------



## pez

Yeah, I can't wait. Woke up this morning to a BSOD on 2553







. I'll try those different RAM timings later that you suggested thinker to see if that helps any. Yeah, I plan to get a pair of ddr500 modules from another member on here soon.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Yeah, AA and AF in cod4 when off doesn't look as bad as other games, although I'll have my CPU at a faster clock speed and a better card, so i would say I could expect around 50, eh? Heh, this is my next goal. I told my brother that by X-mas, I'd show him that COD4 on a 20-22" screen would be smooth on my computer







. I'm excited now







.

Most likely. At 2.8 GHz and those options, I ran around 48 FPS at 1920x1200. (Noticeable lag when shooting down the sight; drooped to about 36 FPS.)

At 1280x800 with every option on with 4x AA I got around 40 FPS. Playable in single player, not so much for mutliplayer. Not that I like the game looking that granulated.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Most likely. At 2.8 GHz and those options, I ran around 48 FPS at 1920x1200. (Noticeable lag when shooting down the sight; drooped to about 36 FPS.)

At 1280x800 with every option on with 4x AA I got around 40 FPS. Playable in single player, not so much for mutliplayer. Not that I like the game looking that granulated.

And this was with only one 3850? That' pretty impressive, IMO. Even in XP or Vista and OC'ed or not, the CPU OC only gave about a 2-3 fps increase, so I know for a fact that COD4 is definitely more GPU dependent.


----------



## Blitz6804

But there is a CPU element to be sure. The graphics card seems to determine your frame rate, your CPU determines your droop. Further, the CPU prevents lagginess on large maps. On a map like "Shipment" there is no difference in FPS at stock versus 2.8 GHz. On a map like "Creek," there is actually about an 8 FPS difference between the two.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


But there is a CPU element to be sure. The graphics card seems to determine your frame rate, your CPU determines your droop. Further, the CPU prevents lagginess on large maps. On a map like "Shipment" there is no difference in FPS at stock versus 2.8 GHz. On a map like "Creek," there is actually about an 8 FPS difference between the two.


Well the map I used in comparision for both was Overgrown. I know what you mean about the droop, though. The single core would drop down to maybe 30-32, but now with the dual, it's maybe gone down only to 37, but that was like in smoke and an artillery strike too







.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Yeah, I can't wait. Woke up this morning to a BSOD on 2553







. I'll try those different RAM timings later that you suggested thinker to see if that helps any. Yeah, I plan to get a pair of ddr500 modules from another member on here soon.


Pez, how much Vcore were you running at 2553Mhz?

Good luck


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pez, how much Vcore were you running at 2553Mhz?

Good luck


Ahh that could've been the culprit, didn't think about it. It was still on stock. How much do you think I should go up, because it was on more than an hour before I went to bed. My mobo goes up in .25 increments.


----------



## Blitz6804

Did you remember to change the RAS# Precharge (tRP) to 4 from 2?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Ahh that could've been the culprit, didn't think about it. It was still on stock. How much do you think I should go up, because it was on more than an hour before I went to bed. My mobo goes up in .25 increments.


Pez, if your BIOS allows .25 increments then go with that. Hopefully a .50 increase will provide some stability.

Blitz, I believe he's still waiting to get home to make the changes to his sub-timings.

Good luck


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Did you remember to change the RAS# Precharge (tRP) to 4 from 2?

the trp is already at 2t on stock. Ugh, I just put everything back on my PC, now I gotta take it off so I can prepare my PC just in case of a CMOS reset







. I'm gonna try the ones that thinker suggested:

tcl 2.5 or 3 (stock is 2.5)
tras 8t (stays)
trcd 4t (stays)
trp 3t (stock is 2t)
tprd 2t (told to leave that alone

I was also recommended to try 3-3-3-8 which in the order of my bios: 3-8-3-3.

I will try the 3-3-3-8 first and then the former. Brb...hopefully.


----------



## thlnk3r

Pez, depending on the type of IC's that your memory is running sometimes it is required to adjust the Vdimm to a higher value to compensate for the tighter sub-timings. That may be something else to try but since your loosening the timings you may not have to. It definitely is something to keep in mind though.

Good luck


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Pez, depending on the type of IC's that your memory is running sometimes it is required to adjust the Vdimm to a higher value to compensate for the tighter sub-timings. That may be something else to try but since your loosening the timings you may not have to. It definitely is something to keep in mind though.

Good luck









What exactly is vdimm? I tried 3-3-3-8 and no boot up at all, reset cmos and only changed the trcd from 4t to 3t. I upped the vcore to 1.4 and set the fsb to 260. One thing I noticed this time, no BSOD, and the DMI Verification was a success. I guess I'll have to do a mini run with orthos to see what happens.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

VDIMM = RAM voltage.









(Yay! My first post of a stupidly busy day!







)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
What exactly is vdimm? I tried 3-3-3-8 and no boot up at all, reset cmos and only changed the trcd from 4t to 3t. I upped the vcore to 1.4 and set the fsb to 260. One thing I noticed this time, no BSOD, and the DMI Verification was a success. I guess I'll have to do a mini run with orthos to see what happens.

Pez, VDimm is the setting that allows you to adjust the voltages for the dimm slot thus giving the ability to add more voltage to your memory when required. I believe the JEDEC standard for DDR1 memory is 2.5volts.

Let us know how the Orthos test goes

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes thlnk3r. JEDEC spec for DDR 400 is 3-3-3-8-2T @ 2.5 V. All RAM should be capable of doing this at DDR 400. Many low-latency RAMs are designed to run in the 2.8 V range. Pez: Do not up the voltage very high if the RAM DIMMs lack a heat spreader.


----------



## Crazy_Nate

Just posting some socket 939 love! Mine's still kicking after 3.5 years









When it gets retired...It will be a sad day. Ah, what am I talking about. It'll be a folding box and a file server









Keep 'em in action, gents!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

A general piece of advice when playing with voltages: There is always a point where the signal strength (i.e., voltage setting) is just right. Add more beyond this point, and it's just a waste of voltage and, over a period of time, it hastens the natural degradation of the transistors. Therefore, it's always a great advantage if your equipment allows you a fine degree of control over the voltage input into your chip (whether it's the CPU, the RAM, the chipset, or the GPU). It's also advisable to be very careful and systematic when adding voltage; a haphazard approach is an invitation for potential disaster.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Yes thlnk3r. JEDEC spec for DDR 400 is 3-3-3-8-2T @ 2.5 V. All RAM should be capable of doing this at DDR 400. Many low-latency RAMs are designed to run in the 2.8 V range. Pez: Do not up the voltage very high if the RAM DIMMs lack a heat spreader.


Agh, well instead of BSOD'ing this time, my computer just froze. I skipped the orthos test and decided to see what would happen when I ran CSS (since it's a CPU oriented game) and after about 10 minutes it froze. I'm actually quite happy with 2.51 right now. The desktop in Vista loads up so fast I don't know what to do with myself







. Until I get the ddr500 ram, I'm gonna stick with this overclock. I'm gonna pop back in those other memory modules so hopefully they'll hold me over until I upgrade. I'll orthos test it tonight to give it proof of stability







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Please welcome our newest member, Crazy Nate!









You are now part of the tribe.


----------



## thlnk3r

Welcome to the club Crazy Nate


----------



## Blitz6804

Hey Pez, question:

When you tried on your 2.6 GHz run, did you try to reducing your HyperTransport multiplier again? While 1040 MHz should not be a problem for an nForce 4, it would not hurt to try 780. (You WILL notice the performance hit; but if it makes it stable, might be worth looking into.)


----------



## pez

Yeah, I put back in my other RAM a couple hours ago, so I'm gonna test the stability. I'm actually very happy with 2.51 right now







. Orthos results tommorow!


----------



## boonie2

WELCOME CRAZY NATE


----------



## pez

Yes, sorry I've been selfish. Welcome Nate.


----------



## GuardianOdin

whoops...missed that...Welcome to the club Crazy Nate!

I have been talking with Blitz about my odd RAM dividers. With the DFI Expert, as soon as you change from 8/9/10 multipliers to .5 multipliers you get the option to run your RAM at 140. Does anyone else get this option or is it a DFI thing?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


whoops...missed that...Welcome to the club Crazy Nate!

I have been talking with Blitz about my odd RAM dividers. With the DFI Expert, as soon as you change from 8/9/10 multipliers to .5 multipliers you get the option to run your RAM at 140. Does anyone else get this option or is it a DFI thing?


I don't...I get 100 / 133 / 166 / 183 / 200 / 233 / 250. That's ALL I ever get.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Seems like a DFI thing. I can't find anything online about odd dividers for other Mobo's

I will say it is a nice option to have. My only problem now is the Opty hold me back from hitting 3.1Ghz stable.....grrrr!


----------



## pez

Having a rough morning. Person who sent me a money order to buy something from me told me the order was delivered (and USPS had it confirmed), but it's not here. So now it's either they misread the address or he had picked an option to sign for and we weren't here...Anyways....

Went to bed late, but here you go:


----------



## GuardianOdin

Nice Pez! now go find a DFI Mobo and get that baby really cook'in


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Nice Pez! now go find a DFI Mobo and get that baby really cook'in









Heh, I'm actually really happy with the quality of Biostar. I've never had to call their CS, but as far as quality, when I first had this board, they were far from a known brand, but since I joined OCN, I saw quite a few members exclaiming about them. This board is almost 3 years old, and has been so faithful to me. I thought about going Intel on my next build, but I've been so happy with AMD and Biostar, that I will probably go that route on my next build.

EDIT: Speaking of weird divi.'s; my mobo is normal going from 100-133-166-200, but then it goes to about 216-233-250 (something along those lines, but it's strange), but then again that might be normal. I can't wait to get the ddr500 then I'll be running 2.5ghz at a full ddr500 at a 200mhz divi







.


----------



## Choggs396

I have a 939 rig in the works. I hope to be within your ranks soon.


----------



## pez

What's going to be in it? And early welcome to you







.

EDIT: Woot, post 700







.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Heh, I'm actually really happy with the quality of Biostar. I've never had to call their CS, but as far as quality, when I first had this board, they were far from a known brand, but since I joined OCN, I saw quite a few members exclaiming about them. This board is almost 3 years old, and has been so faithful to me. I thought about going Intel on my next build, but I've been so happy with AMD and Biostar, that I will probably go that route on my next build.

EDIT: Speaking of weird divi.'s; my mobo is normal going from 100-133-166-200, but then it goes to about 216-233-250 (something along those lines, but it's strange), but then again that might be normal. I can't wait to get the ddr500 then I'll be running 2.5ghz at a full ddr500 at a 200mhz divi







.

I have heard great things about Biostar Mobo's, but when it comes to 939 rigs. DFI makes monsters. I was happy with my Ultra-D but then I upgraded to the Expert and was able to not only run at 3Ghz stable 24/7 I was also able to run normal apps at 3.1Ghz "not game or benchmark stable"

Another highly recommend 939 OC'er is ASUS.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Choggs396* 
I have a 939 rig in the works. I hope to be within your ranks soon.

I thought you already had a 939 rig before?


----------



## Choggs396

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
What's going to be in it? And early welcome to you







.

EDIT: Woot, post 700







.

Thanks!









3700+ San Diego (supposedly with a really good stepping, can't remember what offhand), Asus A8R-MVP RD480 chipset (which I've heard can overclock like a beast), some Ballistix DDR500, and X1800XT Crossfire setup.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
I thought you already had a 939 rig before?

Nope! I had posted some interest before, though.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Choggs396* 
Thanks!









3700+ San Diego (supposedly with a really good stepping, can't remember what offhand), Asus A8R-MVP RD480 chipset (which I've heard can overclock like a beast), some Ballistix DDR500, and X1800XT Crossfire setup.

Nope! I had posted some interest before, though.

why not try getting an Opty with that Mobo. I fairly certain you would have a nice OC with it.


----------



## Choggs396

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
why not try getting an Opty with that Mobo. I fairly certain you would have a nice OC with it.

I was definitely thinking about it. If someone would offer one at a decent price, I'm sure I'd consider the offer. People seem hesitant to let them go (with good cause)!


----------



## GuardianOdin

lol that's for sure. Have to remember though. A lot of these "old" 939 rigs with Opterons are keeping up with AM2 systems. You can expect to pay $80-$150 for an Opteron right now.


----------



## Blitz6804

Try hitting up txtmstrjoe. If I remember right, he might have one last Opteron 170 kicking around.

As to motherboards GuardianOdin, DFI also makes insane AM2 boards. This board has more options than any motherboard I have ever had before it. Talking with Xyro, his MSI has far less tweakability.

Most AMD motherboards have 100-133-166-200. Some also add 150-250. Some also give you the half-dividers, 125-143-183-216, such as your DFI. Depending on the clocks, I hypothesize that some dividers will give you the same RAM speed. For example, I will look at GuardianOdin's current OC:

CPU = 354x8.5 = 3009
RAM = 200:143

RAM "Rated Speed":
143 * 354 / 200 = 253

RAM "Actual Speed":
3009 / 253 = 11.89 (ceil)= 12
3009 / 12 = 250.75 ~ 250.8 = *DDR 501.6*

Compare that to a 200:150 memory divider:

CPU = 354x8.5 = 3009
RAM = 200:150

RAM "Rated Speed":
150 * 354 / 200 = 266

RAM "Actual Speed":
3009 / 266 = 11.31 (ceil)= 12
3009 / 12 = 250.75 ~ 250.8 = *DDR 501.6*

So, at least for this particular setup, a 200:143 and 200:150 RAM divider should give the same RAM speed. I asked GuardianOdin if he would be so kind as to try it when he gets home from work.

*(Ceil)= denotes the ceiling function. Truncate off any decimal places and add 1 to the integer.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Try hitting up txtmstrjoe. If I remember right, he might have one last Opteron 170 kicking around.

As to motherboards GuardianOdin, DFI also makes insane AM2 boards. This board has more options than any motherboard I have ever had before it. Talking with Xyro, his MSI has far less tweakability.

Most AMD motherboards have 100-133-166-200. Some also add 150-250. Some also give you the half-dividers, 125-143-183-216, such as your DFI. Depending on the clocks, I hypothesize that some dividers will give you the same RAM speed. For example, I will look at GuardianOdin's current OC:

CPU = 354x8.5 = 3009
RAM = 200:143

RAM "Rated Speed":
143 * 354 / 200 = 253

RAM "Actual Speed":
3009 / 253 = 11.89 (ceil)= 12
3009 / 12 = 250.75 ~ 250.8 = *DDR 501.6*

Compare that to a 200:150 memory divider:

CPU = 354x8.5 = 3009
RAM = 200:150

RAM "Rated Speed":
150 * 354 / 200 = 266

RAM "Actual Speed":
3009 / 266 = 11.31 (ceil)= 12
3009 / 12 = 250.75 ~ 250.8 = *DDR 501.6*

So, at least for this particular setup, a 200:143 and 200:150 RAM divider should give the same RAM speed. I asked GuardianOdin if he would be so kind as to try it when he gets home from work.

*(Ceil)= denotes the ceiling function. Truncate off any decimal places and add 1 to the integer.


Tried and you are correct

I wrote the the RAM dividers while I was tinkering

*8.5* Multiplier
100
120
133
140
166
180
200
216
250

*8 or 9* Multiplier
100
120
133
150
166
180
200
233


----------



## Iceman0803

I thought you guys might find this interesting. Back in '05 ATi produced a reference board for Sapphire. It was a socket 939 board based on the Radeon XPRESS 200 chipset. Below is a pic of ATi's reference design:

Front










Back










Here is a pic of the board Sapphire produced based on the reference design:










Notice anything interesting......?







Yup a white PCB

It's called the Sapphire PURE Innovation PI-A9RX480 and a review for it can be found at AnandTech. It was apparently a respectable performer.

Anyway I found it interesting because I never knew Sapphire produced motherborads. Then there's the white PCB, I've never seen one. I wonder how hard these boards are to find?


----------



## Blitz6804

Really darn would be the answer. Joe has been wanting to get his hands on a Pure with the 3200CFX chipset to play with it. I hear it OCs between a DFI and the Asus A8R32.


----------



## pez

I would consider buying another 939 mobo, but after this, I'm gonna show am2+ or (isn't there supposed to be a







am3(?) board. I want to maybe try a phenom x3 or x4







.


----------



## Blitz6804

Wait on AM3. AM2 is really a lateral move from 939. My 5400+ BE at its 2.8 GHz stock is on-par with my 4400+ at 2.8 GHz. They bench identically. They game identically. Clock-for-clock, I would say they are the same. Granted, my AM2 can clock a bit higher, I would not say it is worth it.

Deneb will have two AM2+ processors released. The other 8 models are so will be AM3. I hear that AM3 is backwards compatible with AM2+, but to get the full performance from the chip (namely, its insanely fast HyperTransport) you will need to run AM3.


----------



## thlnk3r

Iceman, thank you for sharing that find. Love the white pcb









Choggs396, looking forward to your build!


----------



## GuardianOdin

lol, I was reading the article on the Sapphire PURE Innovation PI-A9RX480 and noticed they only got the DFI Ultra-D to 318.....I know for a fact that will hit 340+

I had running my Opty at 2.9Ghz on an 8 multiplier which would be 362 on the FSB


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Wait on AM3. AM2 is really a lateral move from 939. My 5400+ BE at its 2.8 GHz stock is on-par with my 4400+ at 2.8 GHz. They bench identically. They game identically. Clock-for-clock, I would say they are the same. Granted, my AM2 can clock a bit higher, I would not say it is worth it.

Deneb will have two AM2+ processors released. The other 8 models are so will be AM3. I hear that AM3 is backwards compatible with AM2+, but to get the full performance from the chip (namely, its insanely fast HyperTransport) you will need to run AM3.

So basically my chip running at 2.5 is almost really the equivalent of the am2 5000+? When is the AM3 socket supposed to be released?


----------



## Blitz6804

IIRC, Deneb AM2+ is Q4 2008, Deneb AM3 is Q1-Q2 2009.

And no, I would not say that at 2.5 it is the equivalent of a 5000+. It should be between a 4400+ Brisbane and a 5000+ Brisbane (which are 2.3 GHz and 2.6 GHz stock respectively). In your case, likely a little closer to the 4400+ since my Brisbane at 2.8 GHz matches a Toledo at 2.8 GHz despite having half the cache.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
So basically my chip running at 2.5 is almost really the equivalent of the am2 5000+? When is the AM3 socket supposed to be released?

basically yes. The am2 5000+ runs a smidgen faster, but not enough to justify the cost of an entire system upgrade. That's why a lot of us are waiting for AM3


----------



## thlnk3r

In my opinion S939 and AM2 (architecture wise) are identically the same (other then the DDR2 IMC). I'm sure there have been a few revision there are now, different cache sizes, lower TDP's, the 65nm die shrink ect but the K8 architecture has never changed. I never really saw a point to upgrade


----------



## Blitz6804

Like I said, yes, AM2 is slightly faster than 939. A Brisbane will match a Toledo/Denmark clock-for-clock despite it having half the cache. A Windsor is faster than a Brisbane clock-for-clock, but they generally do not clock as high. Given the choice, I would not have transgraded to AM2 either. Well, I wish I was allowed to get a Phenom 9950 BE, but I wasn't. That would be the only reason to go AM2+: 2 more cores.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I think that AM2/AM2+ has only two performance-oriented advantages over S939:
They can overclock slightly better.

S939 is limited to dual-cores at best.
As a consequence of market forces, I suppose you can say that another ancillary advantage of AM2/AM2+ is that DDR2 available today is a lot cheaper than DDR. But if you've already got good S939 components up and running, it's a dumb "investment" to ditch what you already have and start afresh. You wind up spending MORE ($0.00 always beats whatever you have to spend to get started on a new platform).

I agree with Blitz on the whole, though: Jumping from S939 to AM2/AM2+ is a lateral move (if you ignore the dubious attractiveness of a quad-core) at best. The performance leap is a small skip; I want a massive improvement to justify a true upgrade.

Now when is AMD supposed to release that 12-core Opteron..?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Now when is AMD supposed to release that 12-core Opteron..?










Joe, it sounds crazy but I would purchase one of those just for my SETI farm


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I think that AM2/AM2+ has only two performance-oriented advantages over S939:

They can overclock slightly better.

S939 is limited to dual-cores at best.
As a consequence of market forces, I suppose you can say that another ancillary advantage of AM2/AM2+ is that DDR2 available today is a lot cheaper than DDR. But if you've already got good S939 components up and running, it's a dumb "investment" to ditch what you already have and start afresh. You wind up spending MORE ($0.00 always beats whatever you have to spend to get started on a new platform).

I agree with Blitz on the whole, though: Jumping from S939 to AM2/AM2+ is a lateral move (if you ignore the dubious attractiveness of a quad-core) at best. The performance leap is a small skip; I want a massive improvement to justify a true upgrade.

Now when is AMD supposed to release that 12-core Opteron..?










HERE , HERE ,


----------



## Blitz6804

I fear that the undecacore Opteron so-hinted at would not be on a desktop board, but on server boards only. With graphics solutions like the 4870x2 this might not be a problem, but only time will tell I guess.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I fear that the undecacore Opteron so-hinted at would not be on a desktop board, but on server boards only. With graphics solutions like the 4870x2 this might not be a problem, but only time will tell I guess.


Well, the way the CPU market (both for the consumer sector and the corporate/enterprise sector) seems to be going, it will likely cease to be a MHz battle, but a battle based on which platform can give the most performance for the least power input. In other words, efficiency becomes the all-important metric when it comes to measuring performance.

It is also because of this that some experts in the field (notably, Alex St. John, who writes a provocative monthly column in _Computer Power User_) who believe the CPU as we know it will soon disappear in lieu of processors that architecturally and functionally have much more in common with GPUs. St. John has written that pretty much all a modern CPU has to do these days is tend to the OS; processors that are structured more like GPUs are far more powerful and efficient at task and instruction execution will do more of the heavy lifting.

Tomorrow's Opteron might already be in existence; if St. John and his ilk know about what they're talking about, the Opteron (and Phenom) of the future has today's RV770 as its ancestors.









(This is why AMD's Fusion and Bulldozer platforms are much more interesting, and worth waiting for, than AM2 has ever been for me.







)


----------



## GuardianOdin

and I'm looking forward to it!


----------



## pez

Guys, I'm one step closer to my COD4 on widescreen goal. Got my PSU today, now the next thing I got to get really is the vid card and the monitor. Would you guys suggest 20 or 22 inch? They both have the same native res, but I just want some opinions.


----------



## Blitz6804

I personally like the larger size over the larger resolution. I got a 27-inch monitor with a native of 1920x1200. It has a lower DPI than a 24-inch, which often also run the 1920x1200 resolution. What size monitor you decide on will likely have something to do with how far from it you sit. If you sit a foot away from it, you may opt for the 20-inch. If you sit a meter away, you may opt for the 22-inch. It would not be a bad idea to make a card-board mock-up of both and compare the two. See which feels more "right" to you.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I personally like the larger size over the larger resolution. I got a 27-inch monitor with a native of 1920x1200. It has a lower DPI than a 24-inch, which often also run the 1920x1200 resolution. What size monitor you decide on will likely have something to do with how far from it you sit. If you sit a foot away from it, you may opt for the 20-inch. If you sit a meter away, you may opt for the 22-inch. It would not be a bad idea to make a card-board mock-up of both and compare the two. See which feels more "right" to you.

Ahh, the cardboard thing would be a good idea. Well when I play games it'll probably be a foot or two away, but I also watch movies and stuff on it too.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

When it comes to peripherals where your own senses are concerned (i.e., monitors, keyboards, mice, even sound cards and speaker/headphone systems), I feel the best person who can answer questions is oneself. This is, of course, quite easy when it comes to all but sound cards and speaker/headphone combinations.

The first step in trying to find a solution is to start with your budget; this will initiate the process of elimination. Once you have a budget, the next step is to then try to research likely candidates as thoroughly as possible (reviews, user experiences, and the like). Finally comes the "test drive," where you try to see the monitors in action.

Viewing distance, as Blitz has mentioned, is an oft-neglected factor in monitor-purchase decision making. Also, try to see if the monitor is as adjustable as possible; often, you need to tune monitors to get them displaying things to your liking.

At any rate, trust your senses most of all. It's one thing if one person says things about a product; if you simply don't agree with his/her opinion, then that's good too, because you're the one making the decision and the one spending the money.

Good luck!


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
When it comes to peripherals where your own senses are concerned (i.e., monitors, keyboards, mice, even sound cards and speaker/headphone systems), I feel the best person who can answer questions is oneself. This is, of course, quite easy when it comes to all but sound cards and speaker/headphone combinations.

The first step in trying to find a solution is to start with your budget; this will initiate the process of elimination. Once you have a budget, the next step is to then try to research likely candidates as thoroughly as possible (reviews, user experiences, and the like). Finally comes the "test drive," where you try to see the monitors in action.

Viewing distance, as Blitz has mentioned, is an oft-neglected factor in monitor-purchase decision making. Also, try to see if the monitor is as adjustable as possible; often, you need to tune monitors to get them displaying things to your liking.

At any rate, trust your senses most of all. It's one thing if one person says things about a product; if you simply don't agree with his/her opinion, then that's good too, because you're the one making the decision and the one spending the money.

Good luck!









Yeah, I'm gonna go for 22" because of the movies I watch from netflix and such. I like the idea of having more DPI. You guys care to recommend some? The card I plan to go for is the hd4850, so a monitor under $300 prefferably. I've been looking at a Samsung on newegg that's $280 and 2ms, so it'll have good response to FPS's.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I personally prefer the Acer line-up. I think their 22 incher is like $199....great price / performance there. Samsungs are great screens and all....but I can't stand to pay THAT much for a monitor.


----------



## Blitz6804

Be careful about those numbers: each manufacturer labels them differently. 2ms gray-to-gray may be great with grayscales, but ghost terribly with color gradients. My best piece of advice is go to every, any, and all stores in the area that sells monitors. Look at them all. Poke with them. Play with them. Change the screen saver passwords on the wage slaves... And then when you find the one you want, THEN go to an etailer to buy it.

Seeing is believing. No amount of reviews can tell you what YOUR eyes will see.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Be careful about those numbers: each manufacturer labels them differently. 2ms gray-to-gray may be great with grayscales, but ghost terribly with color gradients. My best piece of advice is go to every, any, and all stores in the area that sells monitors. Look at them all. Poke with them. Play with them. Change the screen saver passwords on the wage slaves... And then when you find the one you want, THEN go to an etailer to buy it.

Seeing is believing. No amount of reviews can tell you what YOUR eyes will see.


Yeah, sounds like a trip to best buy again is needed







. What about that company Hanns-G? When I went into best buy, the best looking monitors were the HD Gateways, the Samsungs, and the Hanns-G's, and then the Dells and a few others were right behind it. Only thing is that they just have screensavers running on them all the time.


----------



## nategr8ns

I got my Samsung 22" for $145 at best buy (actually I tipped my dad off, and he picked two up







)
I do have one dead pixel (maroonish) but it only shows up when light colors are supposed to go there. It's up near the top, if a window is maximized its in the title bar (whatever it's called).
I'd wait for a clearance sale at Best Buy.


----------



## GuardianOdin

My next monitor/tablet purchase Cintiq 21UX


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


My next monitor/tablet purchase Cintiq 21UX


I want a tablet soo bad, but as I'm not a professional artist, and the work I do can be done with a mouse, I don't really can't warrant a purchase like that.


----------



## pez

This overclock is ridiculously fast compared to my last CPU. Even Vista loads faster. I'm so happy with AMD chips. I've used a couple computers with intel (though not for gaming), but AMD is just as good as intel for regular desktops. And I'm sure with the right gfx, it's not that big of a difference in games either.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Maybe somebody in here can give me a helping hand here?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


I do have one dead pixel (maroonish) but it only shows up when light colors are supposed to go there. It's up near the top, if a window is maximized its in the title bar


Nate, that may very well by a stuck pixel and not a dead one. Check out this guide and try a few of these things out. Maybe you'll be able to fix the problem: http://www.wikihow.com/Fix-a-Stuck-P...an-LCD-Monitor.

Good luck


----------



## pez

K guys, I'm starting to worry about this current video card. I've noticed it before, but kinda blew it off. It's making a small, but noticeable type of whining noise. I know it's the gfx card because it only makes the noise during games and atitool scans or anything that challenges the card 3d wise at all. I figured it was semi normal because it's passive (heatsink/no fan), but I'm starting to worry a bit.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I wouldn't worry about it. I get a whining noise when using my onboard audio.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah Pez, that is normal. Most people do not notice it because of their non-passive cooling solutions.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Yeah Pez, that is normal. Most people do not notice it because of their non-passive cooling solutions.

Ok, cause I've heard that that noise can be because of a capacitor getting ready to blow. I knew it wasn't the PSU because that sound was being made before on my other PSU.

EDIT: Also, is 78C under 100% load on ATITool scan for artifacts for a passive card pretty good? It hasn't gone above 80C.


----------



## Blitz6804

No; that is bad. An 8600 should be running around 45Âº C idle and 70Âº C load. That said, I would look into getting a fan pointed at the card's heat sink.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
No; that is bad. An 8600 should be running around 45Âº C idle and 70Âº C load. That said, I would look into getting a fan pointed at the card's heat sink.

Well the wierd thing is before, in RivaTuner, it would tell me the load temp would get around 67C, and now I can't find that tab to save my life (i'm going off the temp ATI tool is giving me). Also, how long does a atitool test need to go before it's determined stable?


----------



## Blitz6804

I have never figured that one out. I let my card run ATITool for two hours no problem. I opened Call of Duty 4 and the video driver crashed within 5 minutes. Near as I can tell, ATITool is insufficient as a stability tester.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I have never figured that one out. I let my card run ATITool for two hours no problem. I opened Call of Duty 4 and the video driver crashed within 5 minutes. Near as I can tell, ATITool is insufficient as a stability tester.

Ahh, well I just ran it for 2.5 hours. I read that 80C is actually a normal temp for this card. And it's hit 79C highest.


----------



## iandroo888

anyone know where to get 120mm fan shrouds?


----------



## Anqt31

I believe you can get them here:

http://www.frozencpu.com/


----------



## Blitz6804

I too was going to suggest Frozen CPU. For CPU-coolers and fans they are far cheaper than Newegg. They also appear to sell shrouds which Newegg does not.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Ok, cause I've heard that that noise can be because of a capacitor getting ready to blow. I knew it wasn't the PSU because that sound was being made before on my other PSU.

EDIT: Also, is 78C under 100% load on ATITool scan for artifacts for a passive card pretty good? It hasn't gone above 80C.


Pez, during ATITool 3D View my 4850 also makes that "whining" noise. Apparently this type of odd issue it's not uncommon. Perhaps someone that is well versed in electronics can explain why the sound occurs under load.

If your 8600GT is on stock cooling then those temperatures are expected. It's nothing to worry about. My 4850 with the stock cooler was doing 70C idle as well.

Good luck


----------



## pez

Actually after looking, ATITool caused the card to be hotter than any of my games. My card was only hitting 68-70C in CSS and the ~70C in CoD4. Strange, but I'm glad that it's not something major, or I was going to try to find a way for them to give me a 4850 back from the RMA. Speaking of which...I still haven't gotten my $30 rebate back from this card yet.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Actually after looking, ATITool caused the card to be hotter than any of my games. My card was only hitting 68-70C in CSS and the ~70C in CoD4. Strange, but I'm glad that it's not something major, or I was going to try to find a way for them to give me a 4850 back from the RMA. Speaking of which...I still haven't gotten my $30 rebate back from this card yet.


Pez, the ATITool 3D View taxes the video card quite a bit similiar to "Fur" which is sort of like the ATITool 3D View tool so that would explain for the high full load temps. When I do my stress testing I run ATITool and Orthos at the same time. My computer basically turns into a miniature heater









Good luck


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pez, the ATITool 3D View taxes the video card quite a bit similiar to "Fur" which is sort of like the ATITool 3D View tool so that would explain for the high full load temps. When I do my stress testing I run ATITool and Orthos at the same time. My computer basically turns into a miniature heater









Good luck


This makes me want to try my ATI card again. One thing I love about ati is even though the x800xl is like 6 generations ago, they make the 8.9 drivers even for it. I'm only skeptical because people say it could mess up your computer?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


This makes me want to try my ATI card again. One thing I love about ati is even though the x800xl is like 6 generations ago, they make the 8.9 drivers even for it. I'm only skeptical because people say it could mess up your computer?


Pez, anything can "mess" up your computer. Everytime you overclock you take that risk. Go ahead and try the new 8.9 drivers. As long as they are compatible then I don't see why not. A lot of the different ATI driver versions have caused problems in the past so it's not unheard of. If you start to get random crashes to desktop when playing games then just revert back to the working version you had before. I'm still running 8.7's on my 4850. I haven't had any problems so there really hasn't been a reason for me to change them to a newer version.

By the way, the X800XL is still a awesome card. My brother is still gaming to this day on a X800XT PE(stock 3200+). He plays games such as COD4, CS:S and WoW









Good luck buddy


----------



## txtmstrjoe

The good thing about a driver update of any sort is if doesn't work quite as well as you thought or hoped, it's very easy to just roll back to the version you had before.









I guess thlnk3r and I are similar; I too am still running the 8.7s on my gaming rig in sig. Once I get things dialed in, I'm happy as a clam.









On a side note, I'll be away from my usual keyboard until sometime on Sunday; I'm at my parents' house as I type this. So, to anyone who may be expecting any communications from me, it's not that I've ignored you; it's just that I'm enjoying my nephews' company (they're both awesome! LOL), most likely, or getting reacquainted with my guitars.


----------



## pez

K Guys, I just had an idea, but what if I were to get a higher end card, like a 4870x2 or a gtx 280? I know the bottleneck will be ridiculous, but it won't cause it to necassarily perform bad will it? I noticed my PSU is actually recommended from ATI to run the 4870x2. But my question is, even though it's a better card than say the hd4870, it won't perform worse than an hd4870 would perform on my system would it?


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


So, to anyone who may be expecting any communications from me, it's not that I've ignored you


Yes it is.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


I know the bottleneck will be ridiculous


"Bottleneck" is a term made up by Intel folks when it comes to benchmarking. The only time I have noticed a "bottleneck" on any rig I had was when it came to 3DMark06. Will the CPU score be lower than in an Intel? Sure. Will it not get as high of overall as an Intel? Sure. Will it still game awesomely? YES! More often than not, the "bottleneck" is not the CPU, but the monitor. No matter how fast your rig is, you monitor can only output as fast as its refresh rate is no?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


But my question is, even though it's a better card than say the hd4870, it won't perform worse than an hd4870 would perform on my system would it?


A 4870x2 performs the same as 2 4870s in crossfire. Any game that does not support crossfire will be downscaled to a single core just as if you had the true crossfire solution. The only downsides of a 4870x2 over a 4870 are the price and temperature differentials. Make sure you double check the temperature of either when you install though; the boxed Catalyst does not spin the fan fast enough to keep the card cool. Supposedly, this was fixed in CCC 8.9 according to the release notes.

I am on the other side of the fence from Joe and Thlnk3r. As soon as there is a new driver, I update. CCC comes out monthly. Sure, most of the bug fixes do not affect the games I play, but many times CCC comes with card optimizations that permit it to do the same amount of work with less core utilization. Or permit it to fold slightly faster. (Something that must be done about the 4870s; they fold terribly.)


----------



## RallyMaster

My parents' system runs an Opteron 146, 6600GT, 1GB Corsair VS on an Abit KN8 motherboard.
My computer runs an Opteron 165, 6800GS, 2GB Patriot on an Abit KN8 Ultra.


----------



## Blitz6804

If you want in RallyMaster, all we need is a CPU-Z validation of some flavor. I hope to add you to our ranks soon!


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Yes it is.

"Bottleneck" is a term made up by Intel folks when it comes to benchmarking. The only time I have noticed a "bottleneck" on any rig I had was when it came to 3DMark06. Will the CPU score be lower than in an Intel? Sure. Will it not get as high of overall as an Intel? Sure. Will it still game awesomely? YES! More often than not, the "bottleneck" is not the CPU, but the monitor. No matter how fast your rig is, you monitor can only output as fast as its refresh rate is no?

A 4870x2 performs the same as 2 4870s in crossfire. Any game that does not support crossfire will be downscaled to a single core just as if you had the true crossfire solution. The only downsides of a 4870x2 over a 4870 are the price and temperature differentials. Make sure you double check the temperature of either when you install though; the boxed Catalyst does not spin the fan fast enough to keep the card cool. Supposedly, this was fixed in CCC 8.9 according to the release notes.

I am on the other side of the fence from Joe and Thlnk3r. As soon as there is a new driver, I update. CCC comes out monthly. Sure, most of the bug fixes do not affect the games I play, but many times CCC comes with card optimizations that permit it to do the same amount of work with less core utilization. Or permit it to fold slightly faster. (Something that must be done about the 4870s; they fold terribly.)


Yeah, I was thinking more about just going ahead and getting a 4870 and then when I upgrade (even if it's a year from now) I'll still have a pretty decent card and will most likely be able to play all the games that come out in 2009. Also as far as the monitor bottleneck, you think I should bump up to a 24"? I'm still thinking about going for 20 or 22.


----------



## Blitz6804

Size matters not. There is a set refresh rate for each resolution. Some monitors differ a little, but not much. Generally, 1920x1200 is 60 Hz, 1680x1050 is 60 Hz, 1440x900 is 75 Hz, 1280x800 is 75 Hz, et cetera. Your mileage may vary.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Size matters not. There is a set refresh rate for each resolution. Some monitors differ a little, but not much. Generally, 1920x1200 is 60 Hz, 1680x1050 is 60 Hz, 1440x900 is 75 Hz, 1280x800 is 75 Hz, et cetera. Your mileage may vary.


Hmm. Yeah, I was wondering this as the 4870's are ~$270 and the 22" acer I saw was only $200, so it stands in a good position







.

I kinda want to do 8800gt's in SLI. It's close to the same performance, and also cheaper. Good thing about that is I could buy one soon, and get another for X-mas. I like the SLI thing, just to say I have it







. Also, the games I play mainly, benefit from xfire and sli (cod4 and css). And most of the newer games are all making that pretty much a standard option now.


----------



## Blitz6804

I know you consider me biased, but whatever.

I have to say that the image quality of ATI is superior to that of nVidia. True, nVidia gets more FPS in almost any game but ATI's picture "comes to life." All the nVidia cards I have used (7800 GS, Quadro NVS 110m, 7800 GTX, 8800 GT 512 MB SLI) all seem flat compared to the ATI counterparts (Radeon x1600, Radeon IGP 320m, Radeon x1950xge, HD 3850 respectively). If you do not believe me, feel free to ask others.

In my opinion, it will matter what you are doing with the cards. If all you ever do is play games on them, then nVidia may be the way to go. But if you intend to watch your movies, once you see Avivo in use, you'll never want an nVidia again.


----------



## pez

In a way, I want to get something nice, but I think I'm itchy when it comes to spending as I was looking at the HD3870's. I also can't find anywhere what the difference b/w the gddr3 and gdd4 version is (performance wise).


----------



## Blitz6804

The differences between the 3870 GDDR3 and 3870 GDDR4 are minute. To give a quick bulleted list:
GDDR4 has a lightly higher bandwidth
GDDR4 uses less voltage, thus, less power
GDDR4 *tends* to run cooler
GDDR4 *tends* to overclock more
GDDR4 costs more
Real-world performance differences equate to less than an FPS difference at stock, up to 3 FPS overclocked. Benchmarking will be obvious between the two, but we all know how worthwhile benchmarks are.


----------



## pez

Hmmm, if I were to skip out on the 4850 and higher this round, what card would you suggest for me depending on the games I play (cod4 and css and maybe a few newer ones)? I'm not brand biased, but aside from the video quality, what would you suggest?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Like Blitz (who thinks I'm ignoring him, hahahaha), my eyes can tell if it's an nVidia-generated image on my monitor compared to an ATi-generated image. I prefer ATi's superior color vibrancy and overall aesthetic quality.

With the power these modern GPUs are able to churn out, FPS comes in more massive quantities than can be appreciated in the games I prefer to play. Beyond a certain point, FPS becomes just a number to throw around, because your eyes can't tell the difference (mine can't). But I believe your eyes can tell the difference in colors, and then you make a decision as to whether or not it's better for you.

I guess I'm lucky, because I've been able to test and evaluate different cards from both ATi and nVidia. I would never be so bold as to express these opinions without having a first-hand experience with them (unlike some on OCN; regurgitation is not a skill). Like I said sometime ago regarding monitors, at the end of the day two things will determine what decision you make: 1) Your willingness and ability to spend, and 2) your own senses. No matter what anybody else might say, at the end of the day your own senses (and your own wallet) will show you which choice is best *for you*.

If you can't trust your own senses, why should you trust someone else's, no?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I know you consider me biased, but whatever.

I have to say that the image quality of ATI is superior to that of nVidia. True, nVidia gets more FPS in almost any game but ATI's picture "comes to life." All the nVidia cards I have used (7800 GS, Quadro NVS 110m, 7800 GTX, 8800 GT 512 MB SLI) all seem flat compared to the ATI counterparts (Radeon x1600, Radeon IGP 320m, Radeon x1950xge, HD 3850 respectively). If you do not believe me, feel free to ask others.

In my opinion, it will matter what you are doing with the cards. If all you ever do is play games on them, then nVidia may be the way to go. But if you intend to watch your movies, once you see Avivo in use, you'll never want an nVidia again.

very true. I'll be switching to ATI when I get my Illustration setup complete. Most likely 4870x2 in Crossfire. Not for gaming really, but more for 3D modeling. I could also go for 4870 in Crossfire with a mass amount of RAM to get the same effect.


----------



## Blitz6804

For 3D modeling, is not a Quadro more appropriate?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
For 3D modeling, is not a Quadro more appropriate?

with cards today the choice is more preference. Plus most of my work is 2D Illustration. The better the image quality the happier the clients.


----------



## pez

Ok, so I got the ati card installed and everything. The bandwidth on this thing is like 31.5 and the 8600gt (even though newer) is only like 25gb/s at most. I also noticed that the ATI card doesn't get as high (maybe 10fps less) but it doesn't drop as low as the 8600gt either. Is this because of the bandwidth? I'm seriously thinking about just selling the 8600gt until I get a really good card.

EDIT: Ahh, nvm it was the server that was just a better server. I'm really heading towards the idea of a 3870 or 8800gt.

EDIT2: Roar, I don't want to make another post, so I think I've made a decision on an HD3870, but not sure which version I should go with, the gddr3 or gddr4? I mean, the gddr3 is $100 and the gddr4 is 130, so I don't think the price is justifiable, and from the charts on tom's hardware, it seems I'll be able to use my current settings in games and get at least the same or more fps that I get now in them.


----------



## iandroo888

*poke*


----------



## Blitz6804

I would say the difference is not worth $30. On the other hand, given my recent gaming experiences, I would say get the fastest GPU you can afford; do not try overclocking a cheaper one. My 3850s were $80 per, and they are stuck at "stock" clocks. (They are 725/900 from the factory; "reference" is 668/829.)

If you can afford a 4850, I would suggest doing so. Every review I have seen of it says that 1 4850 can easily give a pair of 3850s a run for their money. They are as cheap as $140 after MIR if you want non-name brand. Name brand will set you back $10 more. There really is no reason to get a 3870 when for $10-20 more you can get a 4850.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
I also can't find anywhere what the difference b/w the gddr3 and gdd4 version is (performance wise).

Blitz, thanks for clarifying. To add to his reponse Pez, GDDR4 is more expensive because it's only manufactured by Hynix and Samsung. The only major improvement from GDDR3 to GDDR4 was the prefectch scheme from 4 bits to 8 bits. You can read more about that by going here: http://www.maximumpc.com/article/fea...on_gddr_memory.

In regards to the bottleneck question, check out this interesting article on OCN: http://www.overclock.net/graphics-ca...rned-stop.html

Good luck Pez


----------



## pez

Ugh, so many decisions. I'm just gonna get my RAM and sit here broke until X-mas (or until my internship decides to start giving me my checks...)


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
In regards to the bottleneck question, check out this interesting article on OCN: http://www.overclock.net/graphics-ca...rned-stop.html

Thanks Thinks. That was the post I was alluding to but could not find as I was typing. Imgrep.


----------



## HothBase

Please let me in!








Attachment 83862

--> CPU-Z Validation


----------



## Blitz6804

I will be adding you to the off-site roster in about 10 minutes. Joe will add you to the on-site roster within the morrow. Welcome aboard!

EDIT: So added.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


Please let me in!








Attachment 83862

--> CPU-Z Validation










Now OC that bad boy! You should be able to get it up to where I've got it completely stable on stock voltage. If you care:

250FSB (w/ x10 multi.)
RAM Divi: 133Mhz
VCore: 1.35V (default)
HTT: x4 (for a perfect 1000







)

If you get it up there, it'll perform better than my current rig (i'm envious of your gfx card







).


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, in theory perhaps. In fact, given that he has a Toledo to your Manchester, you would expect it to clock higher still. One small problem:

Your mileage may vary.

Just because one PC can up the HTT does not mean another PC can. I have personal experience with that board: it does not like to overclock at all. The Via chipset is a stubborn creature that prefers not to be disturbed. Working against him is that the voltage is 1.408 V. Period. That is all it ever can or will be without a hard mod. Also working against him is that adjusting the HTT will also adjust the PCI frequency somewhat; the lock does not work well. The best HTT I could muster on that board was only 210. He may fare better under the same mantra I am preaching, but I do not expect miracles.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Well, in theory perhaps. In fact, given that he has a Toledo to your Manchester, you would expect it to clock higher still. One small problem:

Your mileage may vary.

Just because one PC can up the HTT does not mean another PC can. I have personal experience with that board: it does not like to overclock at all. The Via chipset is a stubborn creature that prefers not to be disturbed. Working against him is that the voltage is 1.408 V. Period. That is all it ever can or will be without a hard mod. Also working against him is that adjusting the HTT will also adjust the PCI frequency somewhat; the lock does not work well. The best HTT I could muster on that board was only 210. He may fare better under the same mantra I am preaching, but I do not expect miracles.


Oh well that's no good







. I'm so glad I have this CPU though. I'm probably going to run this rig until it dies or it just absolutely cannot handle the games I want to play anymore, which should be in a year or two (given that I get a HD3870 or HD4850 for X-mas







).

EDIT: I keep forgetting but I just remembered finally. When adjusting my DRAM stuff, there's an option that says something like H/W Memory Hole Remapping and I think it's disabled. What is this?


----------



## Blitz6804

You need that if you want to run 4 GB of memory with a 32-bit OS with PAE. With that option turned off, PAE will do nothing. You have 2 GB, leave it as disabled.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Please welcome our newest member, HothBase (love the username, by the way







)!









Blitz, great info on the H/W Memory Hole Remapping.







Excellent contribution.

Also, one of the cardinal rules of overclocking: Comparisons of various hardware combinations are pretty much moot (YMMV, as Blitz said). PCs are like fingerprints or tiger stripes or snowflakes.









The only real way to know what your hardware can do is to just get stuck in and see how fast your machine will go. Hopefully, with a methodical, systematic, and analytical approach, as well as a lot of luck, you'll get a good clock speed out of it.









Can't wait to get back home.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
You need that if you want to run 4 GB of memory with a 32-bit OS with PAE. With that option turned off, PAE will do nothing. You have 2 GB, leave it as disabled.

What's PAE? And what exactly does it do when enabled?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
What's PAE? And what exactly does it do when enabled?

PAE - Physical Address Extension

To quote, "In computing, Physical Address Extension (PAE) refers to a feature of x86 and x86-64 processors that allows more than 4 gigabytes (GB) of physical memory to be used in 32-bit systems, given appropriate operating system support."

Google and wikipedia are your friends, always.


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## pez

Ahh thanks. >.< Google is the devil I say! Godspeed you!


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## Blitz6804

PAE = "Physical Address Extension." 32-bit operating systems have, as you might guess, but 2^32 addresses available to them. That is, 4,294,967,296 bytes = 4,096 megabytes. Back in the day when 32-bit computing first came out, with IBM's 80386 with its clock speed of 12-40 MHz, no-one ever imagined there would be a need for 4 GB of memory. (If I remember right, my 80386 had a 550 MB hard drive for example.)

Anyway, the lowest part of the address space was used for system memory, often 512-2048 KB. The upper part of the address space was kept aside for other matters, such as your sound card and video card. They require system address space to function. Address space used by these devices cannot be used by system memory. Thus, consider a modern system. Your video card likely has a 256 MB or 512 MB frame buffer. Some cards are as high as 1024 MB. Many computers use more than one card. Consider a computer with a pair of 4870x2s. They would have 2048 MB of frame buffer. That is taken out of the address space. Let us assume no-other PCI devices exist. (Which is to assume that the motherboard lacks audio, internet, and any other PCI-based device you can think of.) You would have a maximum of 2048 MB of address space left to assign to system RAM.

Enter 64-bit computing. As the name implies, there is now 2^64 = 18,446,744,073,709,551,616 bytes = 16,777,216 terabytes of address space. Needless to say that such a computer will not run out of address space TODAY. (I foresee a day when there will exist such a computer. Probably in my life time.) The obvious advantage to this is that you can use 4, 8, even 16 GB of memory and not worry about what other things are in the computer.

What about PAE then? PAE is a brainchild of Intel. What it does is permits a 64-bit computer to run a 32-bit operating system while using 35-bits. That is, 32,768 MB of address space rather than 4096 MB. This requires of course support from the software as well as the hardware to function.

What the BIOS option does then is takes any memory residing in the address space of 3.5-4.0 GB and remaps it to 4.0-4.5 GB. This permits the operating system to see 4.0 GB. Not all software can use the upper 0.5 GB. Further, if you have more than 512 MB of PCI address space elsewhere, you are still going to run into the issue of not having all 4.0 GB of memory available to you. PAE also carries another down side with it: while your computer could use all 4.0 GB of memory installed, you can only permit 1.0 GB of memory to any one program instead of the standard 2.0 GB. This is likely why severs were only 32-bit/PAE for a short time; the 64-bit era has existed in the server market long before it became popular in the consumer sector.

It is a stop-gap. Nothing more. If you have 4.0 GB of memory, and you want to use it all, you are far better served using a 64-bit operating system than a 32-bit with PAE. In my personal experience, having ran Windows 32 with PAE for about 8 months, the computer will feel more sluggish with 4 GB and PAE than 2 GB without. This is not due to RAM slow down (DDR 400 to DDR 333) as installing a 64-bit operating system on the same hardware restores the speed lost with PAE enabled. As does running the 32-bit OS with PAE turned off. The reason for the speed decrease, especially on an AMD system, is that it puts an added load on the memory controller to remap the memory: any time there is a call to the RAM, it must be translated into the new memory location.

Further, some software will not operate properly with PAE turned on. I currently run my Laptop (32-bit Vista Ultimate) with PAE turned off for those reasons. (Forced off using BCDEdit rather than "auto.") It is slower when PAE is on rather than off and programs that run happily with it off crash when it is on. (Paint Shop Pro or Macromedia Flash just off the top of my head. Basically, anything with a high-RAM usage.) It is interesting to note, that whether PAE is turned on or off on my laptop, Vista can only use 3.0 GB. On my desktop, there was a difference. 3.5 GB when PAE was on, 3.25 GB when PAE was off.

</TLDR>

Summary: PAE permits (in theory) your computer to use more memory than usual in a 32-bit environment at the expense of speed and compatibility.

(Post post complaint: Darn you Joe on giving a short answer while I type! You couldn't wait 20 minutes?)


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## krnx714

I'd like to join








http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=424280


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## pez

Lol blitz, thanks for the insiteful read there. You know what guys, I heard ATI has a 4830 coming out to rival the 8800/9800gt! That's good news. Especially since it's supposed to rival the 88/9800. The 3870 always lacked behind the 8800gt's from the results and I really want to go ATI this time.


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## Blitz6804

Oustanding Manchester krnx714. Welcome to the club! Joe will add you to the on-site roster his next lurk, you are already added to the off-site.

Pez: regards video cards: ATI's business model is to have people buy several cheaper/weaker cards and link them. nVidia believes in the monolith megacard. For example, a 4870x2 is billed as comparable to a single 280 GTX.

EDIT: And by extension, 2 3870s are a 8800 GTX, 2 3850s are an 8800 GT, 2 2900s are an 8800 320mb, et cetera.


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## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *krnx714* 
I'd like to join








http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=424280

Welcome and very nice OC!


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## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Oustanding Manchester krnx714. Welcome to the club! Joe will add you to the on-site roster his next lurk, you are already added to the off-site.

Pez: regards video cards: ATI's business model is to have people buy several cheaper/weaker cards and link them. nVidia believes in the monolith megacard. For example, a 4870x2 is billed as comparable to a single 280 GTX.

EDIT: And by extension, 2 3870s are a 8800 GTX, 2 3850s are an 8800 GT, 2 2900s are an 8800 320mb, et cetera.

Either way, this 4830 is going to be perfect, but I'll still probably go w/ a hd4850. Ya know, I really don't know, I never can make up my mind.


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## krnx714

thank you


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## txtmstrjoe

krnx714, we bid you welcome! You are now part of our little family.









@ Blitz: Good explanation of PAE. Unfortunately, a simple link to wikipedia is faster than your extensive explanation.







Good job, though, nonetheless.


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## krnx714

yay yay thankz







i will try to push the 2.8 to 3.0 hopefully all goes well? haha


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## Blitz6804

With a Manchester? Not exactly an easy feat. I am willing to wager you are already around 1.45 V. If you can do it though, fluffles will abound if you can do it.

(Hint: consider reducing your HT link to 3x.)


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## krnx714

yeah im about to reduce the HT link to 3x and right now i am running on a 1.48 Voltage
hopefully i can haha


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## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *krnx714* 
yeah im about to reduce the HT link to 3x and right now i am running on a 1.48 Voltage
hopefully i can haha

as long as your not hitting 65c+ you'll be good.


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## Blitz6804

Actually, his Manchester is good to 71Âº C.


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## krnx714

yeah right now with a Small orthos Test for about 10 minutes my load temps will be about 65 and idle with the high voltage is about 45 - 46


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## krnx714

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=424338
check it out 2.9GHZ!!!!!


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## thlnk3r

Welcome Hothbase and Krns714 to the club









Krnx714, nice OC! Have you tested for stability yet? The manchester core is a pain to work with sometimes. Good job


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## pez

Ugh, I'm gonna try and get up to 2.7 once I get my new ram. I'll show you!







.


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## krnx714

thanks for the welcome everybody i have my 4200+ @ 2.8 ghz stable for a good while dont remember cause i dont use the computer very much but 2.9 wouldnt stay stable in orthos for more than a minute


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## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Actually, his Manchester is good to 71Âº C.


poop, that's what I meant to say.


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## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *krnx714*


thanks for the welcome everybody i have my 4200+ @ 2.8 ghz stable for a good while dont remember cause i dont use the computer very much but 2.9 wouldnt stay stable in orthos for more than a minute


Krnx714, how much voltage were you running at 2.9Ghz? An OC of 2.8Ghz on a Manchester core is very respectable. Getting 2.9Ghz to POST is impressive.

Good luck


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## N2Gaming

cool beans. sign me up please. here is my pic


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## Blitz6804

Welcome to the club N2Gaming. You are now hooked up.

Am I the only one to notice people join in clumps? We get weeks of nothing, and then 2-6 people sign up at once!


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## N2Gaming

Thanks... Well I did it because I noticed a link from a thread I was checkn out and because I love my dfi board. The more users we have the more chances of succesfully resolving issues with this socket. I'm still learning this forum as well as over clocking. that's why I'm still at bone stock pds. Is there a way to allow users to see both systems that are in my user cp?


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## txtmstrjoe

Welcome to our little tribe, N2Gaming! Great that you have found us here in our little corner of OCN.









There are many experienced hands at S939 overclocking here in our Club, and no shortage of willingness to help. A couple of our regulars even have solid experience with your board.


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## krnx714

haha i was running like 1.53 volts then i got lazy and put it back down to 2.8 ghz tommorow im gonna try to go for 2.95 to post / stay stable haha


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## N2Gaming

Thanks, It's nice to be here... I'm wondering if my opteron 180 will fry my board. my Panel temps get up to 55C in ITE SmartGuardian under load IE P95 or Crysis at bone stock spds. I'll try to set Volts manually as low as I can get them and go from there for now. thanks again.


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## Blitz6804

Yes there is N2Gaming. Your options are either to:

1) Put a link to the 939 rig into your signature*; or
2) Hope people are unlazy like myself and click your Profile, then click "System Info."

* Which, by the way, is out of date. Still shows a 3500+.


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## N2Gaming

oops I change that right now. thanks for bringing that to my attention and for the link. man that looks pretty real in you avaitor. I won't ask.


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## Murderous Moppet

Well, my buddy still hasn't sent me the 4200+ I was promised, but he told me he was making a point of doing it on Wednesday.

In the meantime (by meantime, I mean the past hour) I tried to get my clocks as high as I could. I was also poking around in my BIOS and under the title "PCI Settings" in my "Advanced Chipset" menu, I found the way to lower my HT multi. Finally.

Running my X2 3800+ at 2.4 right now, which is very high, considering on my A8R-MVP this chip refused to go higher than 2.25. I am running it at the insane voltage of 1.50v, and it is Orthos stable for 3 hours so far.

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=424486

Got it to post at 2.55, however, Windows refused to load until I brought it down to 2.49, and it crashed after about 10 seconds of Orthos until 2.4

What can all the others with the Mushkin XP4000 get in terms of clocks with what timings? I'm running mine at 533, 3,4,4,8. Stock voltage, seeing as this mobo doesn't have ram voltage adjustment.


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## pez

You have DDR400 RAM, so try a divi of 133mhz for the DRAM. Your ram will be a bit slower, but it might provide you w/ stability. It's what I did to get stable.


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## Blitz6804

Actually Pez, he has DDR 500 RAM. PC 4000 = DDR 500, much like your PC 2700 = DDR 333. The RAM he is running, the RAM I was running, and the RAM you will soon be running are all one and the same.

In my case, my Mushkins ran at two speeds/settings. DDR 500 3-3-2-8-1T-11-17 @ 2.8 V and DDR 400 2-3-2-6-2T-8-12 @ 2.8 V. I never tried running them at anything else.

Pez does have an interesting point Murderous Moppet. Why are you running your RAM faster than your HTT? Perhaps drop the RAM to 1:1 (likely 200 MHz in your BIOS). This will give you RAM that is only DDR 480. If you can then get the HTT up to 250, you'll be running 2500 with your RAM 1:1, a tasty proposition indeed. If you want to compare the two, get your hands on Everest Ultimate. (30-day trialware.) Compare your memory bandwidth at 533 Async with 500 Sync. Ninety-nine times out of one hundred the latter will have better bandwidth and lower latency.


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## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Actually Pez, he has DDR 500 RAM. PC 4000 = DDR 500, much like your PC 2700 = DDR 333. The RAM he is running, the RAM I was running, and the RAM you will soon be running are all one and the same.

In my case, my Mushkins ran at two speeds/settings. DDR 500 3-3-2-8-1T-11-17 @ 2.8 V and DDR 400 2-3-2-6-2T-8-12 @ 2.8 V. I never tried running them at anything else.

Pez does have an interesting point Murderous Moppet. Why are you running your RAM faster than your HTT? Perhaps drop the RAM to 1:1 (likely 200 MHz in your BIOS). This will give you RAM that is only DDR 480. If you can then get the HTT up to 250, you'll be running 2500 with your RAM 1:1, a tasty proposition indeed. If you want to compare the two, get your hands on Everest Ultimate. (30-day trialware.) Compare your memory bandwidth at 533 Async with 500 Sync. Ninety-nine times out of one hundred the latter will have better bandwidth and lower latency.


I saw that his RAM says PC4000, but on the cpuz validation his ram says pc3200. And the thing about the ram being at 1:1 w/ the ddr500 was what I noticed and made me especially interested in the ddr500. So the default ram timings for the mushkin's. Will they run fine?


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## Blitz6804

Yes. Mushkins have an SPD value for PC 3200. The RAM will boot, by default, at 400 MHz at 3-3-2-8 @ 2.5 V. The RAM is guaranteed to operate at PC 4000 at 3-3-2-8 @ 2.8 V. The SPD table is listed for PC 3200 for compatibility, as not all boards have a 200:250 memory divider.


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## pez

Oooo, ok, thanks for clearing that up







. Now I can ignored those newegg reviews that stated that about the mushking







.


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## HothBase

Hi all, and thank you for the warm welcome








I figured I'd try out some OC today







I haven't really done any overclocking before so, I'm a newbie, please bear with me.

I did read through most of the basic stuff, but I can't say I understood most of it though








Anyways, I poked around in my BIOS and ended up doing this:
* Locked the "AGP/PCI frequency" to 66.66/33.33
* Lowered "memclock to cpu ratio" to 5:3 (DDR333)
* Increased the "CPU FSB Frequency" from 200 to 210 (starting out small







)
I think that's all I did, I might have forgotten something though, I'll let ya know if i remember anything else.

Now, take a look at CPU-Z if you please








Attachment 83949
I like what I managed to do to the RAM, It was running at 166MHz before, even though it was set to run at 200(It's an A8V(mobo) thing when using 4 sticks)








As you can see, the HT Link is at 1050, and I heard you are supposed to keep it as close to stock(1000) as possible, I would like some more information about that.
Oh, and should I alter the DDR voltage settings? I have it at [auto](2.5V) at the moment, I can choose between .6 .7 and .8

Thanks for any help with my first step into the overclocking world!








It's much appreciated!


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## Blitz6804

Since you are limited by a Via chipset, you should not need RAM voltage just yet. Higher RAM voltages are required if you up the frequency or tighten the latencies. As long as your RAM is around DDR 400 at 3-4-4-8-2T, you should be able to run the JEDEC spec of 2.5 V.

Regards HT link: you usually want to keep it around 1000. An nForce 4 chipset can handle around 1100 max. An nForce 3 chipset can handle around 1000 max. A 3200 Crossfire Xpress can handle around 1300 max. Your chipset is the unknown factor. If you reach instability, dropping the HT link should be your first step.

I will write you a "do to" list later; I am in class right now.


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## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I will write you a "do to" list later; I am in class right now.

Thanks alot! I feel that I could use something like that at the moment.








I'm going to get some sleep now though, so I'll look into it first thing tomorrow.

Edit: How high fluctuations are acceptable for the core voltage?


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## txtmstrjoe

HothBase, just one word of caution: Please do ensure that the PCI Frequency stays locked at 33.33. I had a bad experience with a VIA K8T890 motherboard (ASUS A8V-E SE) which did not have a PCI Frequency lock on it. The OS got severely damaged once I had my HTT Clock up to above 220MHz.

I'm pretty sure that your motherboard/BIOS (you do have the Deluxe version of the board, which is a good thing) does support PCI Frequency locking, but it's something that's worth double-checking.









I guess I just shudder whenever I see VIA K8T8x0 as the chipset (purely due to my own unfortunate experience







).

Good luck!









(Good job by Blitz, as well, for his advice.)


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## Murderous Moppet

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Pez does have an interesting point Murderous Moppet. Why are you running your RAM faster than your HTT? Perhaps drop the RAM to 1:1 (likely 200 MHz in your BIOS). This will give you RAM that is only DDR 480. If you can then get the HTT up to 250, you'll be running 2500 with your RAM 1:1, a tasty proposition indeed. If you want to compare the two, get your hands on Everest Ultimate. (30-day trialware.) Compare your memory bandwidth at 533 Async with 500 Sync. Ninety-nine times out of one hundred the latter will have better bandwidth and lower latency.


I tried to do just that, however my processor refuses to run at 2500MHz. I can push the HTT up higher, lowering the multi to 9x, but the chip itself refuses to go to 2500. I didn't think it would be worth running the multi at 9x, with the chip sitting at 2250, just for a 1:1 on my RAM. I'll set my multi at 9x and see how high I can get my HTT, then look at my options for RAM and the cpu multiplier.


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## Blitz6804

As long as the core voltage is not up around 1.600 V or so, you should be okay on a damage standpoint. On a stability standpoint, a wide voltage swing may cause issues. Sure, the computer might happily run at 2.8 GHz at 1.400 V, but what happens when the voltage drops to 1.260 V?

If you want to do your overclock properly, something I have never done, this is how you do it:

1) Reduce CPU multiplier to 5x, reduce HT Link to 2x, reduce RAM to 200:100
2) Increase the HTT by 5 MHz
3) Run Orthos 30 minutes
4) If it passes, go to step 2; if it fails go to step 5
5) Subtract 10 MHz from the HTT you just tried and write that number down as "Max HTT"
6) Return HTT to 200, increase memory to 200:200 (or in your case, 200:166)
7) Increase the HTT by 5 MHz
8) Run Orthos 30 minutes
9) If it passes, go to step 7; if it fails go to step 10
10) Subtract 10 MHz from the HTT you just tried and write it down as "Max RAM"*
11) Return the HTT to 200 and the RAM to 200:100, then set the CPU multiplier to its maximum (in your case, 10x)
12) Increase the HTT by 5 MHz
13) Run Orthos 30 minutes
14) If it passes, go to step 12; if it fails go to step 14
15) Subtract 10 MHz from the HTT you just tried, multiply it by the multiplier in step 11, and write it down as "Max CPU"
OPTIONAL:
16) Return the HTT to 200 and the CPU multiplier to 5x, change the HT Link to 5x
17) Increase the HTT by 5 MHz
18) Run Orthos 30 minutes
19) If it passes, go to step 16; if it fails go to step 20
20) Subtract 10 MHz from the HTT you just tried, multiply it by 5, and write it down as "Max HyperTransport"

Now we know your maximum CPU speed, maximum RAM speed, and maximum HTT. There are a few programs available where you can input these three numbers and they will suggest the best course of action for you. You can also do this manually attempting to maximize the CPU speed and RAM speed knowing the limitations of your HTT. If you did the optional step, you may be inclined to try maximizing your HyperTransport (that is, preferentially keeping the CPU and/or RAM speed slower to ensure that HyperTransport is about 1000 MHz).

You will have links to said programs from someone else soon**. I always just played it by ear. Instead of worrying about the RAM speed, I worried about the RAM bandwidth. To test the RAM bandwidth, you will need a program like Everest Ultimate.

*Maximum RAM for those timings and voltage. Loosening timings tends to increase this value. Tightening timings tends to decrease this value. Increasing voltage tends to increase this value. Decreasing voltages tends to decrease this value. The effects are inelastically additive. A similar argument exists for CPU Voltage, which if your Via K8T is like mine was, is nonadjustable in your case.

**Gogar's A64 OC Optimizer for one.


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## HothBase

Ok, I just finished the first test. I want to ask something about Orthos though...
Which test am I supposed to run? I ran the "Blend - stress CPU and RAM" just now 'cause I didn't know what else to choose.

About the CPU Voltage, I do have an option to change it in my BIOS, but I have never tried to do so though, so I'm not sure if it works.


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## Blitz6804

When testing the CPU max speed, run Small FFTs at priority 9. For all others, run Blend at priority 10.

Regards CPU voltage: use it only as a last resort. Try to do as best you can at stock voltage. Only when you hit a low wall (that is, your CPU is clearly the weakest link) should you consider increasing it.


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## txtmstrjoe

Which test you run on Orthos depends on what stage of the overclocking you're doing. (I have to say right now that I prefer the "divide and conquer" approach to overclocking; I like to isolate the various sub-systems -- motherboard/chipset, CPU, and RAM -- and try to find their separate respective maximum overclock potential, then consolidate the OC later, but this is an approach some might decry as too slow and laborious.)

To wit, when testing just your CPU, I run the "Small FFTs" test. Of the tests available in Orthos, this stresses the CPU the most (and generates the greatest thermal output also). Once you involve RAM, you run the Blend Test (some say Large FFTs works as well, but I prefer Blend as I think this is more strenuous).

As far as test length and priority settings are concerned, I recommend running at Priority 8 at the very least; this will enable the program to use more of your system's resources as it runs. This has the add-on effect of finding any weaknesses in your overclock/settings quicker. Opinions on test length vary, but I prescribe a minimum of 12 hours at Priority 8. One thing is for sure: A 12 hour test at Priority 8 is more stressful than a 24 hour test at Priority 1.









Finally, as far as voltages go, whatever is the minimum you can run with is best. There is an optimum level for every setup, but you have to test for it. Too much is not better than just enough.









Good luck, and hope this helps.









(See? Blitz thinks like I do, for the most part.







)


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## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
HothBase, just one word of caution: Please do ensure that the PCI Frequency stays locked at 33.33. I had a bad experience with a VIA K8T890 motherboard (ASUS A8V-E SE) which did not have a PCI Frequency lock on it. The OS got severely damaged once I had my HTT Clock up to above 220MHz.

I'm pretty sure that your motherboard/BIOS (you do have the Deluxe version of the board, which is a good thing) does support PCI Frequency locking, but it's something that's worth double-checking.









Is there any way to monitor the PCI/AGP frequency in Windows to make sure the lock is doing it's job? I like being on the safe side, my 939 means alot to me


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## pez

. I've been running the blend at priority 1 the whole time. Does this mean I'm not really stable? I've never seen a crash, even after about ~5 straight hours of gaming.


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## Blitz6804

None that I know about, sorry HothBase. I am curious if you are happy with your x1950 GT. If not, I know a guy selling an HD 3850 AGP 512 MB for a reasonable price.

Pez: Stable is a subjective term. Some, like Pioneerisloud, call stable 24 hours of Orthos blend priority 9. Some, like Txtmstrjoe, call stable a computer that is not on. Some, like myself, call stable a computer that can pass S&M and does not ever blue screen. (The two are not usually identical; the former can occur slightly higher.) Some, who shall remain nameless, call stable a computer that crashes on them not more than thrice daily.

At the end of the day, stable will come down to what makes you happy. Do you want a computer that will crash once a day? Do you want a slower computer that you can leave folding 24x7 without worrying if it will be a blue screen when you get back? Only you can tell.


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## txtmstrjoe

I'm presently researching whether or not either Everest Ultimate or SiSoft SANDRA reports PCI Frequency in Windows; for sure I'll know when I get back home. I do know that ClockGen does report PCI Frequency, if you can find the correct associated files for your chipset (which is possible for the VIA K8T800), but it's presently not available for download for some reason.

By the way, I do not recommend ever using ClockGen (or any OS-active software) to OC your machine. The risk of OS and file corruption is too great.

Blitz, good commentary on stability.


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## HothBase

I'm just not sure whether to trust my lock or not.

Here is something I found on the K8T800Pro PCI/AGP lock:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *www.anandtech.com*

VIA themselves acknowledge that there is a problem with the AGP/PCI lock feature on the K8T800 PRO chipset...
anandtech(link to source)



Quote:



Originally Posted by *www.anandtech.com*

It appears from the information we have right now that the VIA PCI/AGP lock is not a reliable or consistent feature on the K8T800 PRO chipset.
anandtech(link to source)


I am currently trying to dig up more info on this matter to see if my motherboard has this problem. People say it is working on some models.

Thanks for the offer, blitz, but I don't have money to spend right now and I am indeed satisfied with what I have


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## Blitz6804

I have not found any such feature in Everest Ultimate Joe. That does not mean it is not there, simply that I have not found it.


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## HothBase

Guess what.
I managed to download ClockGen from another source and with some help from google I managed to find out that I was supposed to set my PLL setup to ICS950405.
So, if ClockGen is giving me the correct readings, then I am completely safe








Attachment 84031
nevermind those other clocks, I'm still working on finding my maximum RAM freq


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## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
None that I know about, sorry HothBase. I am curious if you are happy with your x1950 GT. If not, I know a guy selling an HD 3850 AGP 512 MB for a reasonable price.

Pez: Stable is a subjective term. Some, like Pioneerisloud, call stable 24 hours of Orthos blend priority 9. Some, like Txtmstrjoe, call stable a computer that is not on. Some, like myself, call stable a computer that can pass S&M and does not ever blue screen. (The two are not usually identical; the former can occur slightly higher.) Some, who shall remain nameless, call stable a computer that crashes on them not more than thrice daily.

At the end of the day, stable will come down to what makes you happy. Do you want a computer that will crash once a day? Do you want a slower computer that you can leave folding 24x7 without worrying if it will be a blue screen when you get back? Only you can tell.

Well I leave my computer on 24/7 for the past week since the new PSU and it's never bsod'ed when I came home from school.


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## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
I'm just not sure whether to trust my lock or not.

HothBase, from what I've read on the internet the PCI/AGP lock works sometimes and sometimes it doesn't. I believe it also depends on the chipset...sounds pretty shady to me. The K8T800 Pro was suppose to have a working lock so overclockers could enjoy the motherboard but apparently that is not the case. One way to verify if the lock is actually working is to increase the HTT (reference clock) by 10 or 15mhz, restart and go back into the BIOS to see if the PCI/AGP frequencies have gone up. If they haven't then you should fine. There is no reason why they would go up after booting into the OS.

Try that and let us know

Good luck









EDIT:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
Guess what.
I managed to download ClockGen from another source and with some help from google I managed to find out that I was supposed to set my PLL setup to ICS950405.
So, if ClockGen is giving me the correct readings, then I am completely safe








Attachment 84031
nevermind those other clocks, I'm still working on finding my maximum RAM freq









Good idea, glad the clocks are staying locked


----------



## HothBase

Well, I'm not sure if I have such a function in my BIOS to actually view the current frequencies. I doubt it








I'll see if I can find anything during my next restart though.

*Edit:* Just found this:

Quote:

ASUS A8V Deluxe (Via K8T800 Pro + VT8237)
Revision 2 seems to fix the AGP/PCI lock problem. Do not get the previous revisions.
(http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.p...&highlight=A8V)
I do have revision 2.00 (just checked)

And this guide that might just come in handy
ASUS A8V Deluxe Overclocking Guide


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
Well, I'm not sure if I have such a function in my BIOS to actually view the current frequencies. I doubt it








I'll see if I can find anything during my next restart though.

*Edit:* Just found this:

I do have revision 2.00 (just checked)

And this guide that might just come in handy
ASUS A8V Deluxe Overclocking Guide

Hotbase, if clockgen is showing the correct speeds for the AGP/PCI then you should be fine. Look between the last two PCI slots on your motherboard. It may indicate what revision A8V you are running.

Good luck


----------



## HothBase

Which is better if I, let's say have my ref clock at 220MHz, a HT Link of 880MHz(4x) or 1100MHz(5x)?
Are there any major performance/speed differences?


----------



## Blitz6804

If it is stable, you will notice a "snappier" Windows experience with 1100 MHz. Gaming performance is negligible if present at all. Windows will boot faster, programs will load faster. Once they are open, you will notice little to no difference. You will not get more FPS. You should not benchmark any higher.

A "high" HT Link is just icing on the big picture's cake.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Be mindful, though, of the possibility that your motherboard/chipset may not be able to support an HT Link speed faster than 1000MHz. I recommend a thorough thrashing (via S&M @ Long + High) of your overclock to determine whether or not your system can stay stable at a higher-than-spec HT Link speed.

Good luck, HothBase.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
Which is better if I, let's say have my ref clock at 220MHz, a HT Link of 880MHz(4x) or 1100MHz(5x)?
Are there any major performance/speed differences?

Hothbase, in my experience I have not noticed a difference between 700mhz HT and 1000mhz HT. As long as your above 680Mhz then you shouldn't experience any problems. As Blitz stated above, it's just icing on the cake.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I have just been doing some experiments with my rig. Granted, it is AM2 instead of 939, but everything else seems to be matching up right, so take it for whatever weight you want to give it.

From the time I swipe my finger until the time the systray is loaded, it takes:
31s at 1250 MHz
27s at 1000 MHz
28s at 750 MHz

1000 MHz has 0.8% higher 3DMark06 score than 1250 MHz and a 1.4% higher 3DMark06 score than 750 MHz. I would say that such small differences are insignificant given the margin of unrepeatability in 3DMark06.

The boot times were tested 3 times each and averaged. My guess is that 1250 MHz is starting to edge on instability, which of course, reduces its performance.


----------



## pez

I noticed faster boot up times w/ vista when I have the htt at 1000mhz too. Just things like the sidebar load up ridiculously fast and such.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I have just been doing some experiments with my rig. Granted, it is AM2 instead of 939, but everything else seems to be matching up right, so take it for whatever weight you want to give it.

From the time I swipe my finger until the time the systray is loaded, it takes:
31s at 1250 MHz
27s at 1000 MHz
28s at 750 MHz

1000 MHz has 0.8% higher 3DMark06 score than 1250 MHz and a 1.4% higher 3DMark06 score than 750 MHz. I would say that such small differences are insignificant given the margin of unrepeatability in 3DMark06.

The boot times were tested 3 times each and averaged. My guess is that 1250 MHz is starting to edge on instability, which of course, reduces its performance.

Blitz, interesting test results. Sorry to be so out of the loop but I'm assuming your testing results are in regards to HT (LDT) speeds? Either way nice testing









Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Curious results, Blitz. They seem to be the exact reverse of my findings, as well as the corroborations from G.O. and pio.

Anyone want to posit a theory as to why this is so? For sure, I don't have a clue.


----------



## Blitz6804

Actually, these more-or-less collaborate with the brief experiments I did with the Toledo. HT will speed up a system's boot time to a certain point. I am sure that if I were to add some HyperTransport voltage, the 1250 MHz will in fact be the fastest. I believe that setting is edging on instability.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Intriguing and plausible theory.

Can you indeed increase HT Link voltage and see if your results improve, just to satisfy my curiosity? (No need to do it if you don't want to, by the way.)


----------



## thlnk3r

If raising the HT (LDT) to a higher speed then one would assume more HT link voltage would be required.

The I/O speed across the chipset is quicker which probably explains for the faster boot times (I'm assuming).


----------



## Blitz6804

For my curiosity as well. My hypothesis was correct; it was lacking voltage.

Increasing NB HT voltage by 50 mV results in what was expected. So amended:

HT = 250x5 and 1.32 V: 26s systray and 9730 3DMarks
HT = 250x4 and 1.27 V: 27s systray and 9715 3DMarks
HT = 250x3 and 1.27 V: 28s systray and 9582 3DMarks

As has been said, as long as your HT Link is at least 800, it really does not matter what it is.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
If raising the HT (LDT) to a higher speed then one would assume more HT link voltage would be required.

I would say this is a reasonable analysis.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
The I/O speed across the chipset is quicker which probably explains for the faster boot times (I'm assuming).

The only counterpoint I'd make to this is that the HT Link is never really saturated anyway at 1000MHz (if you believe all that has been said about it). My favorite analogy for this is to imagine the HT Link as a highway. Let's say it has four lanes going in one direction, and four lanes going in another direction. Now think of data throughput as cars on this 2 x 4 lane highway, and that, for the sake of discussion, there is a finite number of cars on the highway at all times. Finally, think of the highway as being wide enough to comfortably accommodate all of the cars on it. Would increasing the number of lanes speed up the flow of traffic?

Not necessarily. The only way for traffic to move faster is to increase the speed of the cars on the highway. But that increase in speed is more down to the cars (well, the drivers of the cars); that means that CPU speed, more than anything, is responsible for determining the speed of the data throughput through the HT Link.

So where does this lead us vis-a-vis the perceptible changes in system responsiveness when the HT Link speed is changed? To be perfectly honest, there seems to be a disconnect between the theory and conceptual side of the question at hand, and the real-world experience. I'm not smart enough to explain why there is such a difference, a skew between the expected and the actual performance (as well as why metric benchmarks do not support the user-level observations).

As far as I'm concerned, there's fast, then there's fast enough, then there's fast enough and stable. I like the third option best myself.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Higher HT link+increased CPU Mhz+ increased RAM speeds kinda of all lend themselves to this. More or less just increased bandwidth across the board.

I have to install 3D Mark 06 again since I reformatted. I'll do some testing as well in the next few days.

I would like to add that if I keep an 8.5 multiplier with an HT of 2.5 my number kill anything with an 8 or 9 multiplier...BUT find a stable voltage for all components is difficult. It is S&M stable but I still experience lock-ups. I have no idea why unless the PSU is just not stable.


----------



## Blitz6804

See Guardian, that was the nice thing of my test. The ONLY variable was the HT multiplier. Well, and HT voltage for the highest multi. I was too lazy to rerun the slower two at that new voltage. Everything else was kept constant. Regards your stability, I am curious if the non-integral multipliers are giving you the issue.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


See Guardian, that was the nice thing of my test. The ONLY variable was the HT multiplier. Well, and HT voltage for the highest multi. I was too lazy to rerun the slower two at that new voltage. Everything else was kept constant. Regards your stability, I am curious if the non-integral multipliers are giving you the issue.


That could be the issue. I say the PSU becuase I have had issues with stability even under 2.8Ghz when OC'ing my Vidcard. I won't really know for sure until I upgrade to a better PSU.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


It is S&M stable but I still experience lock-ups. I have no idea why unless the PSU is just not stable.


Guardian, it's even S&M stable but you still experience lock-ups? If it were the PSU being weak or the rails not being within spec one would think that the machine would still lock up during full load especially while running S&M.

When do you receive your new PSU?

Good luck


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Guardian, it's even S&M stable but you still experience lock-ups? If it were the PSU being weak or the rails not being within spec one would think that the machine would still lock up during full load especially while running S&M.

When do you receive your new PSU?

Good luck









I'm really not sure, but I'm think Blitz was correct with the odd dividers/multipliers. As for the PSU. I do need a new one but I'm guessing with in the next 3-4 months.


----------



## HothBase

How is this?
Attachment 84129
Does it look all right? I haven't changed any voltages or anything like that.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


How is this?
Attachment 84129
Does it look all right? I haven't changed any voltages or anything like that.


Looks pretty good for a start







. I can almost bet money on it that the Toledo you've got will probably clock quite a bit higher. The Toledo core is the same thing that our Opterons have if I'm not mistaken. I say don't give up yet...try to clock her higher!


----------



## pez

Nice, but I can't let you pass me!







. JK, but nice, at least you got farther than txtmstrjoe







.


----------



## Blitz6804

Pioneer: Toledos are indeed the same as Denmarks most of the time. The only difference here is that his has an 89 W TDP while yours is a 110 W TDP. The advantage of the former of course is that since it uses less power to work, you can theoretically either clock it higher or run it with a weaker power supply. I say theoretically, because in practice, the X2 would become unstable for the sake of being unstable sooner than the Opty.

HothBase: Great start! I am curious, how do you attach pictures the way you do? The normal modus operandi is to attach the image, and then put in an


----------



## HothBase

It's the paper clip thingie in advanced mode








Attachment 84135


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Pioneer: Toledos are indeed the same as Denmarks most of the time. The only difference here is that his has an 89 W TDP while yours is a 110 W TDP. *The advantage of the former of course is that since it uses less power to work*, you can theoretically either clock it higher or run it with a weaker power supply. I say theoretically, because in practice, the X2 would become unstable for the sake of being unstable sooner than the Opty.


Blitz, TDP isn't related to power consumption in terms of wattage. A 89W Toledo doesn't actually consume 89 watts by itself. TDP is the thermal properties of the processor. See thermal design power for more details.
I'm also thinking the lower TDP between the Toledo and Denmark had something to do with the amount of L2 cache on the die. I'm guessing the other 512k of L2 cache was disabled on the Toledo. Just a guess









Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Nope. My Toledo was 89 W and still had 1024k of L2 cache. Toledos other than the 4800+ and FX-60 were 89 W.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Nope. My Toledo was 89 W and still had 1024k of L2 cache. Toledos other than the 4800+ and FX-60 were 89 W.


Blitz, definitely weird. You have one of the older Toledo's with 1mb of L2









There must be some type of reasoning behind the 89W TDP model. Perhaps a revision to the architecture? I guess we'll never know









Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Nope. My Toledo was 89 W and still had 1024k of L2 cache. *Toledos other than the 4800+ and FX-60 were 89 W*.


Not completely correct. 110W Athlon64 X2 4400+ Toledos were also available.

Feature for feature, these are identical to the Denmark Opterons.

EDIT: thlnk3r, perhaps Blitz meant that his Toledo had 1024k of L2 cache _per core_.









Also, as to why there was an 89W variant of the Toledo, it's a mystery to me as well. I know that mine didn't OC all that well (Blitz's did much better); of course, mine had the dreaded "BW" IMC version.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Not completely correct. 110W Athlon64 X2 4400+ Toledos were also available.

Feature for feature, these are identical to the Denmark Opterons.


Joe, it's just weird how the Opteron's had a higher TDP. These were designated for the server market so maybe the tolerances were modified to handle much more load and heat....


----------



## Blitz6804

It is interesting to note that the 110 W models topped out at 65Âº C whereas the 89 W models topped out at 71Âº C. Maybe someone wants to call AMD and ask them what the heck was going on?

And yes, I meant 1024 KB per core.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


It is interesting to note that the 110 W models topped out at 65Âº C whereas the 89 W models topped out at 71Âº C. Maybe someone wants to call AMD and ask them what the heck was going on?


Blitz, I don't think any of that documentation on "peak" load temps is true. Many of us here have taken our Opterons WAY above 65C. That is one thing that I think is skewed on AMD's documentation. Of course this was probably published for precautionary reasons.

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Joe, it's just weird how the Opteron's had a higher TDP. These were designated for the server market so maybe the tolerances were modified to handle much more load and heat....


Well... I personally have never been convinced by anything from AMD that the S939 Opterons (both the dual-core Denmark and the single-core Venus) were any different in terms of architecture (which really is the most important consideration, in my opinion) and feature sets/capabilities from their Athlon64 counterparts (dual-core Toledo and single-core San Diego). S940 Opterons, for sure, are a "true" server chip design; S939 Opterons, on the other hand, trade off of the reflected glory earned by their S940 sisters.

This is a topic that has long been a personal fascination, sometimes bordering on obsession. The major frustration is the complete silence from AMD regarding questions asking about any differences (if any) other than the core code-name assignments regarding their S939 CPUs with 1MB L2 cache per core. Until such confirming information is forthcoming from AMD, I can only personally conclude that it is a marketing decision (a quite sage one, in my opinion) to use the Opteron name for S939 and imply that it is a server-grade product.


----------



## Blitz6804

Of course that is not the "peak" temperature. That is merely the temperature where, if exceeded, you might start causing damage to a processor. Passing that temperature would void your warranty if they could see you did it.

Something that is bothering me: why do some users have black names instead of navy blue? I know blue and green go to forum staff and navy blue are members. Is black overclocked members?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Of course that is not the "peak" temperature. That is merely the temperature where, if exceeded, you might start causing damage to a processor. Passing that temperature would void your warranty if they could see you did it.


Well said. In fact, these CPUs are incredibly resilient. According to the father of one of my best friends, who is an electrical engineer by trade who works in semiconductor design and manufacture, modern CPUs are engineered to operate at sustained temperatures approaching 100 degs C (if not more; the real figures depend on the specific designs).

Mind you, this doesn't exactly mean the processor will work _perfectly reliably_ at such high sustained temperatures.









Hardware manufacturers likely never disclose the actual peak temperatures of their products because of warranty claims in the event end-users get careless.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Something that is bothering me: why do some users have black names instead of navy blue? I know blue and green go to forum staff and navy blue are members. *Is black overclocked members?*


Yep.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Until such confirming information is forthcoming from AMD, I can only personally conclude that it is a marketing decision (a quite sage one, in my opinion) to use the Opteron name for S939 and imply that it is a server-grade product.


I'm in agreement of course. The S939 Opterons were considered the 100 series "1-way servers and workstations" class. Seeming the architecture is identical to other S939 cores such as the Toledo I'm almost certain it was a marketing decision as well. According to AMD the scalability of the 100 series was 1-way. "Way" meaning the amount of sockets on the motherboard. The 200 series is 2-way and the 300 series was 8-way. The 100 seris, 200 and 300 are actually quite the same in NM, HT, ECC ect ect. There are however HE models that had a 55W TDP like the S939 165HE. Other then that there isn't much differences.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Of course that is not the "peak" temperature. That is merely the temperature where, if exceeded, you might start causing damage to a processor. Passing that temperature would void your warranty if they could see you did it.


Blitz, AMD refers to this as "Max Temps (C)". When I see the word "Max" it makes me think that is the "maximum" load temperature. Either way it doesn't matter









Good luck


----------



## azt3c

i'm not sure if its ok to ask here, but which mother would be the best in OC and the cheapest at the same time ?

i know that DFI has the crown but here in Argentina everything is 50% expensive than the US so that why i'm looking for something cheaper than a DFI.

939 speaking of course.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *azt3c*


i'm not sure if its ok to ask here, but which mother would be the best in OC and the cheapest at the same time ?

i know that DFI has the crown but here in Argentina everything is 50% expensive than the US so that why i'm looking for something cheaper than a DFI.

939 speaking of course.


Aztec, I had a Gigabyte K8NSC-939 motherboard that overclocked quite well. It doesn't have as many DRAM configuration options as a DFI motherboard but it was still capable of 280HTT.

I'm sure others will respond shortly









Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I have had experience with the Gigabyte K8NSC-939. It is not a bad board for the money (when not out on RMA). It almost performed as well as my Abit AT8-32x.

I even have a K8NSC-939 freshly back from the RMA department if you want it...


----------



## pez

I was wondering the same about the black names too. What are overclock(ed) members as oppose to overclock.net members?


----------



## Blitz6804

You pay a nominal fee and you can then change your user title to whatever you want rather than picking from the dropdown list. You also get your name standing out. Other than that, I do not know.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

The other benefit to having an overclocked account is that you get an overclocked email address as well. It will take the form of "[email protected]"


----------



## thlnk3r

If anyone else is curious, the list of member benefits is located here: http://www.overclock.net/overclock-n...t-account.html.

Good luck


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
The other benefit to having an overclocked account is that you get an overclocked email address as well. It will take the form of "[email protected]"


Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
If anyone else is curious, the list of member benefits is located here: http://www.overclock.net/overclock-n...t-account.html.

Good luck









that reminds me, I have pay my account again.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *azt3c* 
i'm not sure if its ok to ask here, but which mother would be the best in OC and the cheapest at the same time ?

i know that DFI has the crown but here in Argentina everything is 50% expensive than the US so that why i'm looking for something cheaper than a DFI.

939 speaking of course.

If I am not mistaken, almost any motherboard that holds the NForce4 SLI or 32 lane SLI chipset SHOULD be a pretty good clocker on 939. I've got 3 currently and all clock very well (280-375 HTT). Asus A8N32-SLI Deluxe is a monster and quite user friendly, MSI K8N Neo4 SLI isn't too shabby and outclocks the Asus if tuned properly (mine does at least), and a Jetway 939GT4 SLI which is pretty basic but will hit 300 HTT with ease.

So...yes I can pretty well say that ALMOST any motherboard with the NF4 SLI chipset or SLI 32 lane chipset SHOULD overclock quite nicely. The 32 laned crossfire boards (available from DFI and Asus that I know of) are rare, but are EXTREME clockers. However they are some of the biggest PITA's out there....you even have to tinker at stock settings for stability (ask Joe on that one).

-------------------------
On another note....another way to get the black "overclocked" account is to be a member for a year and have at least 250 rep points. That will also give you an overclocked account...which is how I have mine.


----------



## pez

Yeah, my board is nForce 4 chipset, and it OC's well considering the RAM I got in it. But I just took blitz up on his DDR500 RAM. 2.7Ghz here I come?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Sometimes it's not so easy as to just picking a chipset or chipset family and say that the motherboard will OC well. While it's largely true that nF4/nF4 SLI/nF4 SLI x16 chipset family features boards that OC well, there are examples of motherboards that have these chipsets that don't OC much. For example, ever wonder why the MSI K8N Diamond Plus isn't a very popular choice amongst overclockers? I've never played with this board myself, but there's a reason this board didn't sell all that well amongst the enthusiast/OCing crowd: Apparently, for all its specs, it apparently had problems going high enough for a decent OC. When this board was new, I remember reading about tale after tale of OCing disappointment with it.

I am curious enough to pick up one of these MSIs and try to understand why it's not a good OCer. But only at the right price.









pio, if you remember our friend The Grand Poobah, he had an SiS ASUS that he used on a S939 chip; he wrung almost 3.0GHz from that chip and board. Goes to show that even unknown chipsets can shine if the rest of the board is well put together.

To counter-balance the point, there are ASUS A8N-SLI Deluxe boards that can't crank up their HTT clocks higher than 260MHz.









azt3c, here's my personal take on motherboard choice: It's not the chipset so much that matters, but the particular make and model of motherboard. In your case, it's going to be tough to find a good overclocking board simply because S939 parts are so hard to find these days. However, with luck, you can sometimes score even a great motherboard, sometimes for real cheap.









That's how I got a DFI LANParty UT nF4-SLI board for $20.00 once (that board is now thlnk3r's), and a CFX3200-DR for $50.00 (from my brother-in-law's friend).









Luck is the overclocker's best friend.


----------



## GuardianOdin

I got my Expert for $45







can't beat that

Love finding good deals


----------



## pioneerisloud

I got my Asus A8N32-SLI Deluxe for $179.99 + shipping







.

I feel ripped off now, lol.


----------



## iandroo888

i got mine for $182.99 with free shipping... brand new from Newegg.


----------



## N2Gaming

Pioneer. That is good to know. Did you have 2 accounts and vote yourself into that title lol. just kindn. That's probably not possible any way. Cheers with RootBeers


----------



## GuardianOdin

woot! They finally released Vista 64 Drivers for my Mustek A3 USB scanner....That was the only thing holding me back from Vista 64


----------



## pez

Your machine will run vista sooo well guardian. Go for it.

Quick question guys. I like the idea of 20 and 22" monitors, but 19" monitors seem to be very nice too. How is 1440x900 resolution for the 4850? I was actually thinking of going that res w/ an 8800gt.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

G.O.: Hope the transition to Vista is good for you! I'll soon be starting on experimenting with Vista with a dual-booting stock-clocked server.







(WinXP Pro + Vista Ultimate)

pez: thlnk3r runs 1440 x 900 with his HD 4850, if I'm not mistaken. He has never complained about the combination (not to me, anyway). I run 1440 x 900 with an HD 4870; absolutely no problems there either. I run my games maxed out, by the way.

Hope this helps!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Your machine will run vista sooo well guardian. Go for it.

Quick question guys. I like the idea of 20 and 22" monitors, but 19" monitors seem to be very nice too. How is 1440x900 resolution for the 4850? I was actually thinking of going that res w/ an 8800gt.


Thanks Joe for the clarification.

Pez, so far the games that I have played haven't required me to drop any of the graphic settings. That resolution is great. One thing to note, some games out there (older ones) do not have 1440x900 listed in the game so a bit of tweaking is required. If you play source games, that res should be listed.

Are you running a cooler on the 4850?

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

thlnk3r, good point about older games possibly not supporting a 16:10 ratio resolution (1440 x 900 is an example). But, as you say, thanks to some clever people out there, it is possible to have a workaround. I hesitated for the longest time to switch between my two available LCDs (one was a 1440 x 900, the other was a 1280 x 1024) because I like playing quite a few older games (SW KotOR, BF2) which don't support widescreen resolutions natively. A few tweaks and hacks, and away we go!


----------



## GuardianOdin

bah!

Hey guys, think you's could help me out in my "no sound" thread? No sound in XP


----------



## nategr8ns

I say definitely get a 20/22" right now. It gives you very close to 1080p (1050p).
Of course if you have the money for a 24"...








I would have gone 24" or more if I had the money.


----------



## Blitz6804

Nate: the resolution is not as close as you would think. 1080p, 1920x1080, is 2.07 megapixels whereas 1680x1050 is 1.76 megapixels. Further, 1080p is 16:9 whereas 1680x1050 is 16:10.


----------



## N2Gaming

is there a free copy or freeware of 3dmark06?


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes there is. 3DMark06 Basic Edition. (Use by not entering a product code during install.)

The free edition has a long wait period before you may run the test, you may only run the basic battery, and you may not submit your results to ORB.


----------



## pez

Yeah, I was actually looking at that acer that is 19" and has a native res. of 1680x1050. I put my parents 19" on my comp just now and games are actually running the same as 1280x1024. This is good. I could actually get that 19" before the vid card, and run it at 1440x900, and then when I get a new card, run it at 1680x1050. I'm not sure. I would be able to get a 24", but I game, and my computer + even a 4870 probably wouldn't perform well at 1920x1200.


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks Blitz. I will repost my score when done downloading and running test


----------



## GuardianOdin

Hey guys, heads up on the new Nvidia 178.13 drivers. I was able to score higher at lower clocks on my vidcard in 3D Mark06.

 They seem very stable


----------



## Bogeyone001

Hey all new here and would like to join the club with my 939


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bogeyone001*


Hey all new here and would like to join the club with my 939


Well welcome! Just get us a CPUz screenshot or validation link and of course you'll be added to the roster!


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Well welcome! Just get us a CPUz screenshot or validation link and of course you'll be added to the roster!


how do i take a Screenshot of cpu-z or the validation web page


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bogeyone001*


how do i take a Screenshot of cpu-z or the validation web page


Download CPUz (can be found via google EASILY), run it, and take a screenshot / post it here! That's the easiest way to do it.

To take a screenshot (just clarifying):
Press the "Prt Scr" button located near the top of your keyboard (usually by lights).
Open Paint or other graphic edited program.
Paste
Save the file (preferrably as a .jpg).

To upload it here:
Make a new post in a thread (like in here for example).
Click the button near the top that has a picture of a paperclip.
Attach the picture, and make your post.


----------



## Bogeyone001

ID : 426707Submitted by Seth | Sat, 04 Oct 2008 02:40:57 +0200 | Validated by CPU-Z 1.47
AMD Athlon 64 X2 3800+
Windows XP Professional SP3 (Build 2600) 
CPU Arch : 1 CPU - 2 Cores - 2 Threads
CPU PSN : AMD Athlon 64 X2 Dual Core Processor 3800+
CPU EXT : MMX(+) 3DNow!(+) SSE SSE2 SSE3 x86-64
CPUID : F.3.2 / Extended : F.23
CPU Cache : L1 : 2 x 64 / 2 x 64 KB - L2 : 2 x 512 KB
Core : Toledo (90 nm) / Stepping : JH-E6

Freq : 2009.31 MHz (200.93 * 10)
MB Brand : DFI
MB Model : LP NF4 Series
NB : NVIDIA nForce4 rev A3
SB : NVIDIA nForce4 MCP rev A3

GPU Type : GeForce 8600 GT
GPU Clocks : Core 540 MHz / RAM 400 MHz
DirectX Version : 9.0c

RAM : 1024 MB DDR Dual Channel
RAM Speed : 200.9 MHz (CPU/10) @ 3-3-3-8
Slot 1 : 512MB (PC3200)
Slot 1 Manufacturer : Corsair
Slot 2 : 512MB (PC3200)
Slot 2 Manufacturer : Corsair

CPU-Z Forum Banner (BB Code below)

CPU-Z Validator 2.1 - Copyright 2005-2008 (c) Samuel D. / Franck D. - Visit us at canardplus.com / cpuid.com


----------



## GuardianOdin

CPU-Z


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bogeyone001*


ID : 426707Submitted by Seth | Sat, 04 Oct 2008 02:40:57 +0200 | Validated by CPU-Z 1.47
AMD Athlon 64 X2 3800+
Windows XP Professional SP3 (Build 2600) 
CPU Arch : 1 CPU - 2 Cores - 2 Threads
CPU PSN : AMD Athlon 64 X2 Dual Core Processor 3800+
CPU EXT : MMX(+) 3DNow!(+) SSE SSE2 SSE3 x86-64
CPUID : F.3.2 / Extended : F.23
CPU Cache : L1 : 2 x 64 / 2 x 64 KB - L2 : 2 x 512 KB
Core : Toledo (90 nm) / Stepping : JH-E6

Freq : 2009.31 MHz (200.93 * 10)
MB Brand : DFI
MB Model : LP NF4 Series
NB : NVIDIA nForce4 rev A3
SB : NVIDIA nForce4 MCP rev A3

GPU Type : GeForce 8600 GT
GPU Clocks : Core 540 MHz / RAM 400 MHz
DirectX Version : 9.0c

RAM : 1024 MB DDR Dual Channel
RAM Speed : 200.9 MHz (CPU/10) @ 3-3-3-8
Slot 1 : 512MB (PC3200)
Slot 1 Manufacturer : Corsair
Slot 2 : 512MB (PC3200)
Slot 2 Manufacturer : Corsair

CPU-Z Forum Banner (BB Code below)

CPU-Z Validator 2.1 - Copyright 2005-2008 (c) Samuel D. / Franck D. - Visit us at canardplus.com / cpuid.com


For starters, that has the potential to be one of the greatest 939 rigs around (as a lot of us have in this club







). Toledo core X2....GREAT overclocker. Typically can hit anywhere between 2.6-3.0GHz depending on each chip of course. DFI LanParty NF4 motherboard....considered to be one of the top dogs out there. 8600GT...not a gamer's card, but a well rounded choice for a budget build







. 1GB of RAM, well you're running XP, so you don't need 4GB now do you?

That's not the proof that is needed to join yet...but now you have an idea what you're packin







. Like I said, show us a screenshot of the CPU and memory tabs (CPU is all that is required, but memory tab is nice to include) and you're on the roster







.


----------



## Bogeyone001

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=426707

here is the link because i cant find the sc of cpuz


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bogeyone001*


http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=426707

here is the link because i cant find the sc of cpuz


Absolutely PERFECT







. That's my personal favorite way of doing it anway







. Welcome aboard, as soon as txtmstrjoe sees that you'll be on the roster.


----------



## Bogeyone001

and yea the card was a budget buy.. but it works pretty darn good stock.. and like i said in another post its a huge upgrade from a radeon 9800pro

my original build 5 yrs ago was radeon 9800 
same ram i have now 
same psu
asus mobo 8kn something..lol
Samsung 160gb HDD
and amd athlon 64 3200

and mag 19 inch monitor

.. this new Samsung T220 monitor is sweet


----------



## Blitz6804

I am adding you to the off-site roster right now.


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I am adding you to the off-site roster right now.


Cheers


----------



## Bogeyone001

So why is socket 939 a "real" socket.. lol


----------



## Blitz6804

Socket 939 K8's went against Socket T P4's. Socket 939, being the typical PGA, or Pin Grid Array, is a socket. The board has a box with holes in it, and the processor has pins that go into those holes. Thinking of an electrical outlet, the board has the socket, the processor has the plug.

Socket T is a LGA, or Land Grid Array. Unlike AM2, 939, 754, 462, 423, and many others, Socket T (and its replacement of Socket B) has the picture inverted. The box on the motherboard is full of pins. On the underside of the processor there are metal contact pads. That is, the board is the plug and the processor is the socket. AMD's Socket F (dual-socket AMD board; home of the FX-74) and Intel's Socket J (such as is used in the Skulltrail) also use this interface.


----------



## N2Gaming

I copied this for you from the 1st page of this thread. How do you become part of this group? Simple: Just provide a CPU-Z link (preferable) or a CPU-Z screenshot of a S939 system, either in this thread or a PM to txtmstrjoe, thlnk3r, pioneerisloud, blitz6804, or GuardianOdin, and they'll add you to the roster as soon as possible.

Of course, everyone is welcome to contribute to this thread too.
welcome to club 939


----------



## Bogeyone001

ahh i see.. i think my brain is going to overload on how much i'm learning from this site.

Thanks for the info it is all very good


----------



## N2Gaming

This indeed is a very good sight with usefull information pertaining to computers and such. I hope you find answers to all the questions you have. Of course there is pleanty of alredy posted threads that can keep you bussy for hours.


----------



## Blitz6804

<redacted>


----------



## N2Gaming

thanks.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey GuardianOdin, is that 178.13 Driver only good for 32 bit xp and 32 bit xp mc


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bogeyone001*


ahh i see.. i think my brain is going to overload on how much i'm learning from this site.

Thanks for the info it is all very good


Hehe, we have somewhat similar systems








.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hey GuardianOdin, is that 178.13 Driver only good for 32 bit xp and 32 bit xp mc


I believe it's out for Vista now. Look in the Software News section.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Please welcome Bogeyone001, our newest member to our happy little family!


----------



## thlnk3r

Welcome to the club Bogeyone001


----------



## pez

Velkome!


----------



## pioneerisloud

And of course...welcome from the head boob goes out to Bogeyone001!


----------



## boonie2

Welcome new members


----------



## iandroo888

why does my DFI & FX-60 rig have errors or not start up if i have 2 sticks of 1gb corsair ddr400 ram and 2 sticks of 512mb teamxtreme ddr500 ram?


----------



## N2Gaming

what are memory settings at. go with the loosest timings of the two manufactures and up the voltage a little. see it that helps.


----------



## iandroo888

doesnt help even i resetted to defaults? so probably like.. auto? xD


----------



## Blitz6804

It is generally a bad idea to mix densities. The board can boot fine with either of the two kits I am assuming, but both together is bad news. It MIGHT be possible to do it, but in my opinion, what you lose is not worth it.

As N2Gaming has said, which is the looser of the two kits? Put in only the 512s. Clear the CMOS, then see what auto sets up. Put in only the 1024s. Clear the CMOS, then see what auto sets up. Put in all four DIMMs (being sure to have them in the correct channels). Clear the CMOS, then set the RAM to run at the looser of the two settings. For example, 3-3-3-8 is looser than 2-3-3-6. JEDEC standard for DDR400 is 3-3-3-8 @ 2.50 V for the record.


----------



## N2Gaming

have you tried the 512 sticks by them selves and then the 1024 sticks by them selves and run memtests on both sets to rule out bad ram. If your running auto I thinking that might be a problem as well. One is for ddr400 and one is for ddr500 auto mode might try to runn ddr500 or vise versa and make system unstable. then again maybe it's possible those two sticks are incompatible together in the dfi board. Some dfi boards are very picky as to the type of ram you have installed.


----------



## boonie2

try exactly as blitz suggested


----------



## iandroo888

not bad ram for sure. the corsair sticks is from my opty rig. thought id throw em over for now while my psu is getting RMA'ed


----------



## N2Gaming

I see. yes I believe blitz has suggested the best solution for you to try that's if they'll even work together in that board.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
why does my DFI & FX-60 rig have errors or not start up if i have 2 sticks of 1gb corsair ddr400 ram and 2 sticks of 512mb teamxtreme ddr500 ram?


Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
It is generally a bad idea to mix densities.

Blitz, good point made.

Iandroo, if one set is high density and the other is low density then that might be the problem. Have you tried a different set of memory with the Corsair set? Further more, can you provide the model numbers of each set?

Good luck


----------



## Bogeyone001

Hi and thanks all for the welcome.. Would like to know also if anyone can help me OC my rig


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Bogeyone001, most of us here would be happy to help.









Let us know what you've already tried, or if you have a specific question(s). There is no shortage of knowledge and experience here.


----------



## N2Gaming

man I just got out bid on ebay for a DFI LANPARTY NF4 SLI-DR Expert at $51.00 I think that's my limit to pay for this board. I see them going for over $100. all the time.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
man I just got out bid on ebay for a DFI LANPARTY NF4 SLI-DR Expert at $51.00 I think that's my limit to pay for this board. I see them going for over $100. all the time.

$100-$160 is about average for the Expert, they are still very mean little Motherboards.

I have seen them on ebay for quite a bit less every now and again.


----------



## N2Gaming

ya I was the high bidder at $31 w/a day and a half left to go and wham out bid past my max bid of $50. darn it. Maybe I'll get one sooner or later. hopefully sooner. would be nice to have two nf4 boards. then I could do some extensive experiments w/out worrying to much about frying a baord. Not that I want to fry a board. So what is the max you think I should pay for a nf4 board like that?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


ya I was the high bidder at $31 w/a day and a half left to go and wham out bid past my max bid of $50. darn it. Maybe I'll get one sooner or later. hopefully sooner. would be nice to have two nf4 boards. then I could do some extensive experiments w/out worrying to much about frying a baord. Not that I want to fry a board. *So what is the max you think I should pay for a nf4 board like that?*


Well... prices for used computer parts will always be related to the demand and desirability of such parts (the rule is also true for current parts, actually). If you're depending on eBay, it's impossible to say how much the final bids will be because a lot depends on luck there.

Since DFI LANParty nF4 boards are, by reputation, amongst the best of all nF4-chipset motherboards, you can reasonably expect the highest prices for these compared to boards from other manufacturers. In today's terms, I would say no less than $80.00, depending on age and condition.

If you're good at making deals, though, and if you're lucky, you can get a lower price than this.


----------



## N2Gaming

thank you, I will use carefull considerations $$$ when trying to come up on another dfi nf4


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Bogeyone001, most of us here would be happy to help.









Let us know what you've already tried, or if you have a specific question(s). There is no shortage of knowledge and experience here.











well i have tried nothing before.. my rig has always been stock and done fine for me but i really want to kick it to the limits or at least i know it could be better than it is now even without pushing the limits.

other than what i have been reading about OCing i don't know anything through experience.
I understand the concept and sort of how to do it but am unsure with myself to start changing things without actually talking to someone first about where to start


----------



## Blitz6804

See: Post 7552. Your RAM will go to 200:200 in step 6.

As for the mentioned calculator, look into Gogar's A64 OC Optimizer.

Joe, if we have room, it may not be a bad idea to put Gogar on the front page.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Bogeyone001, there is more than one way to overclocking heaven.









I'm from the "slowly but surely" school; an overclocking exercise typically takes weeks for me (given my schedule and my penchant to do things methodically and systematically). I favor a lot of testing, especially when it comes to establishing stability. I believe in the "divide and conquer" approach, i.e., I break the overclocking process into three discreet parts, testing for the limits in the motherboard, the CPU, and the RAM; when I've found the limits for all three, I then proceed to integrate the limits of all three into one coherent overclock (with the aid of Gogar's AMD Overclocking Optimizer). Stability testing for me is a very painstaking, methodical process as well, and typically will take around 40% of my time.

Other people go for broke right away, setting their motherboard's Reference Clock (aka HTT Clock or "FSB" in some BIOSes) to a nominal figure, their CPU's multiplier to the max possible (which depends on each chip; yours is 10x), adjusting the motherboard's HT Link Multiplier (usually to 3x), and putting the RAM on the biggest divider (to slow it down as much as possible). They also peg the VCore to some nominal figure, and then they test for stability, tweaking mainly their voltages as they go.

I think there is an inherent advantage in the slow-but-sure approach, and that is it's far easier to diagnose problems as and when they come up. By splitting up the process into separate pieces, you take most of the guesswork out of problem diagnosis, analysis, and troubleshooting.

But it's an obviously more painstaking way of doing things, so I can easily understand why it's not much in favor for the majority of people.









@ Blitz: Gogar IS on the first post of the thread.


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


See: Post 7552. Your RAM will go to 200:200 in step 6.

As for the mentioned calculator, look into Gogar's A64 OC Optimizer.

Joe, if we have room, it may not be a bad idea to put Gogar on the front page.


 will def take a look now thanks


----------



## Bogeyone001

I hear ya txtmstrjoe

i am one for slowly but surely right now especially because i dont want to lose any piece of my rig so i would rather be safer about it.
not to mention i have an incredible amount of time on my hands.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Well, we're here for support, Bogeyone001.







Lots of guys to help you along.


----------



## Bogeyone001

Thanks again guys rep for info and links.


----------



## Bogeyone001

hey what priority do i run orthos at when testing through the steps


----------



## Blitz6804

For finding max CPU or HTT, go for small FFTs at priority 9. For finding max RAM, go for blend at priority 10.


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Well, we're here for support, Bogeyone001.







Lots of guys to help you along.











Hey txtmstrjoe here is my new cpu-z.

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=427788


----------



## Bogeyone001

alas i would like to up the settings on my video card

xfx 8600 gt 1gb

any help would again be greatly appreciated from the fine people of this group


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bogeyone001*


Hey txtmstrjoe here is my new cpu-z.

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=427788


not bad for the 3800. If I had to guess "others are better informed" I'd wager that CPU may be capable of 2.8Ghz-2.9Ghz maybe even 3Ghz depending on the stepping.

As far as the 8600GT. It's been over a year since I owned one and mine was volt modded.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Well done, Bogeyone001.







Roster has been updated.

Have you done any stability testing?

G.O. is right, of course, in saying that it's possible that your CPU may have more juice left in it.







Do you happen to know what the stepping code of that CPU is?

As far as your video card goes, well... I have to admit I'm a total novice when it comes to video card overclocking. I've only done it once, and just for kicks.









I'm sure, though, that someone here will be more than happy to contribute to that particular quest.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bogeyone001*
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=427788

I'm sorry, but what is up with the 8x multiplier?


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bogeyone001*


alas i would like to up the settings on my video card

xfx 8600 gt 1gb

any help would again be greatly appreciated from the fine people of this group











I'm sure your card can OC better than mine, but I have mine set to clocks of 660/800 and have the shader clock linked in rivatuner. Guru3d.com is where you can d/l rivatuner (version 2.11 i think). I think my shader linked gets up to 1570 or so. I had this running on crysis for ~2-3 hours trying to beat warhead







. Though I wouldn't expect to play crysis w/ this card...I got about 20-40 fps on minimum. But I am going to get a new card soon.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


I'm sorry, but what is up with the 8x multiplier?


If I had to guess, I would wager that this is the option that gave the best CPU speed while keeping the RAM at DDR 400 according to Gogar or similar.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


If I had to guess, I would wager that this is the option that gave the best CPU speed while keeping the RAM at DDR 400 according to Gogar or similar.


Either that, or it's based on an assumption that higher reference clocks equal higher performance (as in Intel's FSB-based overclocks).


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Well... prices for used computer parts will always be related to the demand and desirability of such parts (the rule is also true for current parts, actually). If you're depending on eBay, it's impossible to say how much the final bids will be because a lot depends on luck there.

Since DFI LANParty nF4 boards are, by reputation, amongst the best of all nF4-chipset motherboards, you can reasonably expect the highest prices for these compared to boards from other manufacturers. In today's terms, I would say no less than $80.00, depending on age and condition.











 Hey txtmstrjoe, the board i was bidding on went from $92.00 to $152.50 in the last 30 seconds. WOW I would rather have new with warranty for that price.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Which board were you bidding on?

I tell you, sometimes prices on S939 parts can get really crazy on eBay. DFI motherboards and dual-core CPUs are especially prone to high bids.

Not too shabby for "obsolete" equipment, I'd say...


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Either that, or it's based on an assumption that higher reference clocks equal higher performance (as in Intel's FSB-based overclocks).











If that were the case, you would expect a 3x or 4x LDT and not a 2x LDT.


----------



## N2Gaming

yeah not to shabby at all. I wonder if spoof or shill bidding was involved on that one. Oh well, I guess I'll never know how many actual bidders it takes to get to the center of that dfi board. he he he... that was the NF4 LP UT NF4 SLI DR Expert


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bogeyone001* 
Hey txtmstrjoe here is my new cpu-z.

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=427788

Bogeyone001, looking good









If your board is able to do 325HTT stable then try bumping the multiplier back to 10x and push the processor more. Have you tested for stability at your current OC? An HT speed of 650mhz is a tad low and might cause some issues.

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
If that were the case, you would expect a 3x or 4x LDT and not a 2x LDT.

I stand by my theory that his underlying strategy is based on the (actually inaccurate) assumption that higher reference clocks lead to higher overall system performance ("FSB" speeds don't matter nearly as much as CPU Frequency with K8s; FSB speed matters hugely in current Intel systems, though). I don't discount your theory at all that perhaps this is an optimal setting for his system given his RAM's capabilities. (In other words, I'm not excluding your theory at all.)

The fact that Bogeyone001 has his HT Link Multiplier so low suggests two things: 1) He's still experimenting with his system, which is something I appreciate hugely; or 2) He forgot that his HT Link Multiplier is still just at 2x, because even @ 3x he's still under 1000MHz.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
yeah not to shabby at all. I wonder if spoof or shill bidding was involved on that one. Oh well, I guess I'll never know how many actual bidders it takes to get to the center of that dfi board. he he he... that was the NF4 LP UT NF4 SLI DR Expert

Ah, the Expert... a lovely board, she is.







$152.50 is a good price for it.

I wonder now if I should sell mine...


----------



## Blitz6804

Very true; my guide calls for the LDT to be 2x for most of the steps. Leaving it there would be a perfectly reasonable suggestion.


----------



## thlnk3r

Very rarely do I use 2x HT. In most situations for myself, I've only ran that setting when testing. On the other hand if the user has a pretty high HTT (reference clock) and is attempting to avoid instability issues with a high HT speed then I could imagine that.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

The only way I would justify keeping a 2x LDT is if you have an HTT in excess of 370. Since this has not happened to my knowledge, the lowest I would recommend is 3x. Even if this means adding some HTVCore to stabilize past 1000 MHz.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
The only way I would justify keeping a 2x LDT is if you have an HTT in excess of 370. Since this has not happened to my knowledge, the lowest I would recommend is 3x. Even if this means adding some HTVCore to stabilize past 1000 MHz.

Blitz, didn't someone in our club exceed 380HTT? Not sure if it was stable though. I'm pretty sure someone did.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Highest I recall is Guardian Odin at 354. I could be wrong, would be far from the first time.


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


I'm sorry, but what is up with the 8x multiplier?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


If I had to guess, I would wager that this is the option that gave the best CPU speed while keeping the RAM at DDR 400 according to Gogar or similar.



I used gogars oc guide

My system is stable at he oc its at now but was giving me trouble when i tried to go higher..

What is stepping

And what do you mean what is with the 8x multiplier, sry i am still new to overclocking and this is my first stable result.
i am learning as i go along with the great help of this group.

As far as what txtmstrjoe said about me still experimenting i would be if i knew how and i actually did forget to fix the ht link


----------



## Blitz6804

The stepping code is a bunch of numbers that tell you when the processor was made and what manufacturing group it was made in.










Here, we see that my Stepping is LCBIE 0638. It is from the batch LCBIE, manufactured the 38th week of 2006.


----------



## Bogeyone001

ok so how does knowing this help me?


----------



## Blitz6804

Stepping codes tend to behave similarly. Some steppings tend to perform well, some tend to perform poorly. By knowing your stepping code, you may get a rough idea as to what your processor can do. As you see with every one of Thlnk3r's signatures, Joe has pointed out that this is only a probabilistic determination. Just because my LCBIE could get up to 3.1 GHz does not mean your LCBIE could do the same, if you had an LCBIE, but it may be more likely.


----------



## Bogeyone001

ok i see well i will see what my stepping code is and post it


----------



## Blitz6804

You would need to remove your heatsink, clean off the TIM, and record the code. Personally, unless you are unhappy with your temperatures, I would not bother getting it. The risks of loosing a good seat for a bad one outweigh the benefits of knowing your stepping. (In my opinion.)


----------



## N2Gaming

I totally agree with blitz on not removing your h/s fan just to record cpu info in echange for possibly changing the cooling properties of cpu. unless your changing heatsink and fan for better one or changing thermal grease for better grease then It's just a hassle. just go for the highest stable overclock you can achive. just my $0.02


----------



## Bogeyone001

too late but i need thermal compound anyways not to mention it was dirty as all hell..

my stepping is LCB9E 0633


----------



## N2Gaming

cheerio then mate. carry on


----------



## Bogeyone001

ahh as well my cpu idle temp dropping 5 degrees.. yay









So how do i tell by my stepping.. 
im running orthos right now anyways at 280 x 10

I think someone hid a bucket of dust and hair by my cpu and hs

Ok so orthos immediately fails at 280 x10


----------



## Bogeyone001

does this mean i can not go any higher than 2.6 ghz?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bogeyone001*


does this mean i can not go any higher than 2.6 ghz?


Not necessarily. It only means that, right now, it looks like other factors are holding up the overclock.

With a DFI LANParty motherboard, you really have to do a lot with the RAM to get the most performance out of it. But the first step is to know what kind of RAM you've got, so we can establish a starting point. Do you happen to know what model number your RAM is? Once we have this, we can research what kind of ICs the RAM has, and tune it accordingly.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bogeyone001*


Ok so orthos immediately fails at 280 x10










Bogeyone001, can you take screenshots of each tab in CPU-Z and share them with us? We might be able to tell you what needs to be adjusted ect.

Let us know

Good luck


----------



## Bogeyone001

ok i am doing that now..
also it seems to be fine at 270 x 10 right now


----------



## Bogeyone001

Here they are


----------



## Blitz6804

[Regards Bogeyone001 asking if he cannot do greater than 2.6 GHz] No, it doesn't. I see when you increased to 280x10 you did not also increase the VCore. Northbridge voltage is also occasionally needed at higher HTTs.

Regards your stepping, I know LCB9E Denmarks tend to perform well (around 2.8-3.0 GHz). You however have a Toledo with half your cache disabled.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bogeyone001* 
Here they are

Bogeyone001, try and keep your HT speed above 680-700mhz. Change the HT multiplier from 2x and set it to 3x. That should bump you up to 810mhz. Your current instability issues may be due to a low HT speed. I would also recommend taking the command rate from 1T and dropping it down to 2T for testing purposes.
With that high of HTT (reference clock) you may want to also think about applying some chipset voltage as well. All though I doubt your DFI board is suffering from this but you may want to try it out.

Let us know

Hope that helps


----------



## Bogeyone001

Hmm thanks for the info guys i will try that now .. as for the voltage what do i increase it to.


----------



## Blitz6804

START SMALL.

+0.025 V at most at a time. Watch your temperatures like a hawk!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bogeyone001* 
Hmm thanks for the info guys i will try that now .. as for the voltage what do i increase it to.

Bogeyone001, I'd suggest increasing it in .25 increments (if your bios allows those small of changes). After each change test with Orthos. So far I think you've done great on stock voltage.

Good luck


----------



## HothBase

Q1:
What does CAS really mean/do? My CAS Latency was originally at 3.0 but my motherboard sets it to 2.5 when i OC.
Q2:
When "loosening" timings, you set higher values, right? This improves stability?
And lower values are generally better, no?


----------



## Blitz6804

Higher values tend to be more stable, looser values tend to permit higher memory bandwidth and lower latencies for equal speed. As I am on my way out the door, I'll let someone else explain what CAS stands for and does.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
Q1:
What does CAS really mean/do? My CAS Latency was originally at 3.0 but my motherboard sets it to 2.5 when i OC.
Q2:
When "loosening" timings, you set higher values, right? This improves stability?
And lower values are generally better, no?

Hoth, a whole explanation about CAS (column access strobe) can be found here.

You're completely right about the looser and tighter timings. In my opinion a processor that is overclocked makes up for the latencies, so it hardly ever matters to me if my memory is poor in terms of tighter sub-timings or a higher memory frequency speed. Every little bit does count though.

Good luck


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Bogeyone001, I'd suggest increasing it in .25 increments (if your bios allows those small of changes). After each change test with Orthos. So far I think you've done great on stock voltage.

Good luck









it goes from 1.5 to 1.6 as the next voltage option for chipset.
i dont know how to change the 1t timing and didnt know half my cache disabled .. and how do i enable it ?


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Not necessarily. It only means that, right now, it looks like other factors are holding up the overclock.

With a DFI LANParty motherboard, you really have to do a lot with the RAM to get the most performance out of it. But the first step is to know what kind of RAM you've got, so we can establish a starting point. Do you happen to know what model number your RAM is? Once we have this, we can research what kind of ICs the RAM has, and tune it accordingly.


here is my ram

CORSAIR
Series XMS
Model TWINX1024-3200C2PT
Type 184-Pin DDR SDRAM
Tech Spec
Capacity 1GB (2 x 512MB)
Speed DDR 400 (PC 3200)
Cas Latency 2
Timing 2-3-3-6

i raised the chipset voltage to 1.6 and tried 275 x10 but it failed.. ahh oops i need to raise the vcore to which is the cpu vid....
I feel like such a noob but the help i am receiving from everyone is outstanding







i cant thank you guys enough

here is cpu-z


----------



## huntman21014

hey, just wanted to let you know that I still have my amd athlon 64 4000+ oc'ed to 3ghz


----------



## pez

Gonna jump in b/w and post this picture of my new RAM (thanks to blitz!): I now have a perfect 1000mhz ht link at 2.5ghz







. Now on to getting a higher OC!.


----------



## pez

Ok, I just blue screened while running the video stress test for css. Any ideas?

EDIT: I just looked at newegg at the default timings for it...says 3-3-2-8...should I set my cas to 2 instead of 2.5 then? Could that be causing the BSOD?


----------



## N2Gaming

or try 3 and let us know how it works


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


or try 3 and let us know how it works


I did! And it works! I tried 2 and lol I thought I was gonna have to reset cmos, but then 3 hasn't bsod'ed...yet. But I pulled up CSS again and all is well. My computer now just needs that 9800gt to be where I want it







. And I should have that by next week if all goes as planned.

Woot for 901th post.


----------



## Bogeyone001

what to do now vcore is at 1.4 and chipset at 1.6 ldt at 1.3.. is it the voltage or what and should i up it more if it is the voltage
but orthos fails..








also what temp should my core NOT exceed


----------



## N2Gaming

ya memory timings are critical settings, good job now your pc should run like a hurricane. lol well maybe a little faster then before, like double the data rate. So it should process twice as much junk at the same time. cheers with RootBeers


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


ya memory timings are critical settings, good job now your pc should run like a hurricane. lol well maybe a little faster then before, like double the data rate. So it should process twice as much junk at the same time. cheers with RootBeers










Yes, ty







. It was running at like ddr266 before, now it literally almost is twice as fast at ddr500







. It might go down to ddr450 soon if I try a 2.7ghz oc







. I'll save that for tommorow or so though







.


----------



## N2Gaming

cool glad I could help. hey do you ever give rep? the little blue rectangle button on the left lower corner


----------



## N2Gaming

Oh man I hope people keep it outa the gutta on that one. sorry if it sounded bad. I just typed it and then read it after posting and realized how some people might take that give rep question.


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Oh man I hope people keep it outa the gutta on that one. sorry if it sounded bad. I just typed it and then read it after posting and realized how some people might take that give rep question.

lol its all good youve been more than helpful enough.


----------



## Bogeyone001

do you know if i should raise my voltages to get orthos to pass and be stable


----------



## N2Gaming

well depends on where they are now. I would think you probably should not go higher than 2.8. stock is like 2.5 or 2.6 I'm not familiar with that ram. do you know the stock settings and voltages as well as voltage limits for warranty. remember any time you raise voltage you create heat. heat transfers to other system parts residing around the source of the heat. Additionally when you up the voltage you create more load on the mother boards electrical paths. So any circuits related to the voltage you increase will be affected. Now I'm trying to bs you into believing im an electrician.

Feel your ram with your finger under load, be carefull not to touch any electrical connections. That will give you an idea of the temps of the ram. then after you increase the voltage put it under load and then feel it again. Please if you don't have heat spreaders on your ram be very carefull not to touch any metal leads on the ram. just the black part of the ram. if the heat goes up significantly like you burn your finger "not good" then lower your voltage. Remember the key is to increase in small increments to create stability. good luck


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
cool glad I could help. hey do you ever give rep? the little blue rectangle button on the left lower corner

lol yes, I do.


----------



## Bogeyone001

my computer wont boot all the way

it gets no further than the black loading screen and then says disk read error!!!

what do i do..
i really hope i didnt kill anything


----------



## N2Gaming

do you get past post


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


do you get past post


umm i thnk so

it goes through the first black screen that tells me the processor and all then next one and at the bottom says cmos backup ok
then right under that disk read error press ctrl alt del

wont go any further


----------



## N2Gaming

Post is Power On Self Test. If you can get into your bios ( basic input out put ) then I think that means you pass post. ok go back to the last setting you changed in the bios and change it back. see if that does the trick. You may notice many different types of errors when your tweeking your system for roverclocking. that's what stability testing is for. you have a unstable pc right now so your system is not able to hadle normal operations untill you set it back to a stable setting. if ram cant do it's job becuase of it's ill from settings then you play like doctor and operate.


----------



## Bogeyone001

i put everything back to normal but its still doing the same thing it doesnt show my raid array when i boot up anymore like it usually does


----------



## Bogeyone001

grr this wasnt even from ocing anything from earlier..
just tryed to oc my gpu and it became all unstable so i tried resetting the cmos and put everything back to normal..
now i get this stupid logo for dfi lanparty as the very first thing that shows up when i turn on


----------



## N2Gaming

uh damb hate it when that happens. Sounds like your raid array failed. that's why I don't use raid. honestly I'll have to let someone else help you with that one becuase I have no knowledge of raid or spelling either. I think it is a good idea to learn how to overclock with just one hard drive. did you have a lot of files on the system or did you just build it? I'd hate to hear that you lost all your files!


----------



## pez

Yeah, I know nothing about raid. But I have the most random question...sorry bogey, I don't mean to intrude, but this is killing me. What's the flame above my avatar mean? I only see a few select people have it?


----------



## Bogeyone001

its fine no intrusion..

I just really hope someone can help me cuz if not its off to the devils who charge a million dollars and hour for pc repair... damnit


----------



## Bogeyone001

its telling me NTDLR is missing


----------



## N2Gaming

memory timings will do that.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bogeyone001*


grr this wasnt even from ocing anything from earlier..
just tryed to oc my gpu and it became all unstable so i tried resetting the cmos and put everything back to normal..
now i get this stupid logo for dfi lanparty as the very first thing that shows up when i turn on










shed a tear for this man. You made a lot of changes. do you have cmos reloader. that is a very good tool with in bios. If you have it, learn it. that way you don't have to restart from scratch if you ever have to clear you cmos.


----------



## Blitz6804

Alright, here we go:

Bogeyone001: Your CPU's maximum safe temperature is 71Âº. Unfortunately, I fear you have fun afoul of the overclocking bug: it is possible you have fried your OS. First, before we jump to conclusions, please check in the BIOS that RAID is enabled. Next, after POST, press the key to open the RAID configuration. Be sure it shows the RAID 0 Stripe as healthy. If it is enabled in the BIOS, and reads as healthy, and still will not boot Windows, get your hands on the Windows install CD. If I recall though, that problem is a Vista-exclusive one. Is your sig rig wrong?

The voltage Thlnk3r and I referred to was your VCore, not your chipset voltage. Stock for your chip, as has been previously shown is 1.350 V. If that is not Orthos stable, try 1.375 V. Then 1.400 V. Then try 1.425 V and so forth. Remember that maximum safe temperature is 71Âº C.

Also, you did remember to put the RAM on a divider as necessary right? You want the DDR 266 (200:133 divider) for your present HTT. (As of post 7724.) In post 7730, your tRP, tRAS, and tRC are too tight, likely the cause of the instability. Loosen them to 3, 8, and 11 respectively.

Pez: the stock timings for that RAM at DDR 500 is 3-3-2-8-1T @ 2.8 V. Running at a CAS of 2.5 is tighter than CAS of 3.0, and may result in instability without additional RAM voltage.

huntman21014: If you want in, all you need to do is post a CPU-Z validation link or a screen shot, such as Bogeyone001 did in post 7724 or Pez in 7726.


----------



## Bogeyone001

so it shows my raid array i was just missing it it went so fast but now it is telling me NTDLR is missing..
i am going to put in and old ide and try that to see if i can boot

It says raid stripe is healthy and i have XP not vista

also my sig rig isnt wrong as far as i know
fortunately for me i have an xp os cd


----------



## Blitz6804

RAID 1? Your signature says Stripe. Stripe is RAID 0. When you were in Windows, did you see 931 GB or 466 GB as your hard drive size? (Approximates)


----------



## Blitz6804

Sorry for double, but I do not want you to miss this:

Here is a possible way to fix the error:

Insert the Win XP setup disk and boot to it
Open the repair console ("R" key)
Open the Windows installation that is broken (should be the "1" key)
Type in the administrator password (if present; else, hit enter)
If Windows is installed on C:\\, and your optical drive is E:\\,
Type:
copy e:\\i386\
tldr c:\\
Hit enter
Type:
copy e:\\i386\
tdetect.com c:\\
Hit enter
Reboot; remember to remove the disk


----------



## Bogeyone001

yea i meant 0
and it shows 931.52 GB
will try solution now

the first part of that works and says file copied but the second command says the file cannot be copied


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Highest I recall is Guardian Odin at 354. I could be wrong, would be far from the first time.

cough cough....381


----------



## Blitz6804

Try restarting the PC and try copying the second file again. If it fails again, we will need to look into a FixMBR.

Failing that, a repair installation may be in your future.

And would people stop proving me wrong today!? *Slaps GuardianOdin and SerenityKill3r in the face with large tunas.*


----------



## Blitz6804

Sorry for another double.

While you have the recovery console open, please type:

type c:\\boot.ini

Retype every single thing there on here. Make sure you get the syntax exact.


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Try restarting the PC and try copying the second file again. If it fails again, we will need to look into a FixMBR.

Failing that, a repair installation may be in your future.

And would people stop proving me wrong today!? *Slaps GuardianOdin and SerenityKill3r in the face with large tunas.*


ok will post back in a few with results
so the second line copied but still says NTLDR is missing
missed the boot command so putting it in now


----------



## pez

Here's an update on mine if you don't mind to update it







.

EDIT: Crap gotta retake...wrong tab in gpu-z

K here we go:


----------



## Blitz6804

Oh, and Pez, I apologize, I forgot to address your flame question.

The flames are "pips." They give a reader a quick idea of how many posts someone has. The more flames you have, the more posts you have made. I forget the milestones however.


----------



## Bogeyone001

I typed: type c:\\boot.ini
it says system cannot find file or directory specified


----------



## Blitz6804

Your boot.ini file accidentally was deleted.

Does both the computer you are typing on now and the computer you are trying to save have a floppy drive? If so, create a notepad file and type:

Code:



Code:


[boot loader]
timeout=30
default=multi(0)disk(0)rdisk(0)partition(1)WINDOWS
[operating systems]
multi(0)disk(0)rdisk(0)partition(1)WINDOWS="Microsoft Windows XP Home" /fastdetect

Then, save the file as boot.ini. Copy it to the floppy. Boot the recovery console again and load the floppy disk.

Type:
copy a:\\boot.ini c:\\

If you do not have a floppy drive on both, do you have a thumb drive? Barring either, and having really bad luck, does your lifeboat have a disc burner?


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Your boot.ini file accidentally was deleted.

Does both the computer you are typing on now and the computer you are trying to save have a floppy drive? If so, create a notepad file and type:

Code:



Code:


[boot loader]
timeout=30
default=multi(0)disk(0)rdisk(0)partition(1)WINDOWS
[operating systems]
multi(0)disk(0)rdisk(0)partition(1)WINDOWS="Microsoft Windows XP Home" /fastdetect

Then, save the file as boot.ini. Copy it to the floppy. Boot the recovery console again and load the floppy disk.

Type:
copy a:boot.ini c:

If you do not have a floppy drive on both, do you have a thumb drive? Barring either, and having really bad luck, does your lifeboat have a disc burner?

Well i have a floppy in the victim but not the savior so i will use a thumb drive.
do i just copy to thumb and plug and boot from that?

sry bout all the posting pez


----------



## Blitz6804

Again, boot from the recovery console. Plug in the thumb drive. It will likely be D:, but might be F:.

The command then is:

copy X:\\boot.ini c:\\

Where "X" is the drive's letter.

ALTERNATIVELY: Type edit.com. Then manually type the whole thing out and save as boot.ini in the C:\\.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Oh, and Pez, I apologize, I forgot to address your flame question.

The flames are "pips." They give a reader a quick idea of how many posts someone has. The more flames you have, the more posts you have made. I forget the milestones however.

Ohhh, I think I got it. I guess I didn't see them since bogey has been posting a lot while I was searching







.


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Again, boot from the recovery console. Plug in the thumb drive. It will likely be D:, but might be F:.

The command then is:

copy X:boot.ini c:

Where "X" is the drive's letter.

ALTERNATIVELY: Type edit.com. Then manually type the whole thing out and save as boot.ini in the C:.

looks like im doing this the alternate way...
cant find file..

so what exactly do i do for the edit.com way


----------



## Blitz6804

Apparently, they removed "Edit.com" between Win ME and Win XP. It seems that without the ability to transfer the file via thumb drive or similar method, you may be in trouble.

When you say "cannot find file," you mean you cannot find the thumb drive? What if the drive is in prior to booting? If you type "map" it should list all drives currently enabled.


----------



## Bogeyone001

i am rebooting with thumbdrive in and will enter map to see which drive it is then try again
if that doesnt work still then what?

It shows it as D: but it shows system cannot find file sepcified when i try to copy it to c


----------



## pez

Wow so blitz, thought this might be of a bit of interest to you. I just did the video stress test in css again, but this time w/ the oc, and I'm up to ~123-124 fps as opposed to ~112 before. That's pretty cool that the memory could've effected that. I had benchmarked css earlier w/o the oc, so I was kinda like *** at first. Even CryWar is performing noticeably better.


----------



## Blitz6804

If you cannot get it through thumbdrive, and you do not have a floppy, our options are getting more limited. Do you have a Linux live CD? If so, you can boot to the live CD on the damaged computer, make the boot.ini file in Linux. Then copy to a floppy disk in Linux. Then reboot to the recovery console.

If not, we are at a crossroads:

You can attempt fixboot and/or fixmbr. They may not fix the problem. It is possible too that they might make the data on your hard drives inaccessible. (At least, through conventional means.)

The alternative is to do a repair installation. I can guarantee your Windows will be all kinds of messed up. At the very least, you should be able to boot Windows to back up your data. Also, if you have a live CD and the boot.ini did not work, you can use the live CD to back up your data and then reformat and reinstall windows fresh.

I know things are starting to look grim; but do not lose hope. I am working on this as hard as I can.

EDIT: This used to only work on Win Pro, but can you try:

bootcfg /rebuild

EDIT2: When you created the boot.ini on the other PC, you did make sure it is boot.ini and not boot.ini.txt? To do so, you must make sure that windows is not hiding extensions of known file types.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
If you cannot get it through thumbdrive, and you do not have a floppy, our options are getting more limited. Do you have a Linux live CD? If so, you can boot to the live CD on the damaged computer, make the boot.ini file in Linux. Then copy to a floppy disk in Linux. Then reboot to the recovery console.

If not, we are at a crossroads:

You can attempt fixboot and/or fixmbr. They may not fix the problem. It is possible too that they might make the data on your hard drives inaccessible. (At least, through conventional means.)

The alternative is to do a repair installation. I can guarantee your Windows will be all kinds of messed up. At the very least, you should be able to boot Windows to back up your data. Also, if you have a live CD and the boot.ini did not work, you can use the live CD to back up your data and then reformat and reinstall windows fresh.

I know things are starting to look grim; but do not lose hope. I am working on this as hard as I can.

EDIT: This used to only work on Win Pro, but can you try:

bootcfg /rebuild

EDIT2: When you created the boot.ini on the other PC, you did make sure it is boot.ini and not boot.ini.txt? To do so, you must make sure that windows is not hiding extensions of known file types.

bootcfg /rebuild

works, I've done a ridiculous amount of times. Never needed the CD


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
If you cannot get it through thumbdrive, and you do not have a floppy, our options are getting more limited. Do you have a Linux live CD? If so, you can boot to the live CD on the damaged computer, make the boot.ini file in Linux. Then copy to a floppy disk in Linux. Then reboot to the recovery console.

If not, we are at a crossroads:

You can attempt fixboot and/or fixmbr. They may not fix the problem. It is possible too that they might make the data on your hard drives inaccessible. (At least, through conventional means.)

The alternative is to do a repair installation. I can guarantee your Windows will be all kinds of messed up. At the very least, you should be able to boot Windows to back up your data. Also, if you have a live CD and the boot.ini did not work, you can use the live CD to back up your data and then reformat and reinstall windows fresh.

I know things are starting to look grim; but do not lose hope. I am working on this as hard as I can.

EDIT: This used to only work on Win Pro, but can you try:

bootcfg /rebuild

EDIT2: When you created the boot.ini on the other PC, you did make sure it is boot.ini and not boot.ini.txt? To do so, you must make sure that windows is not hiding extensions of known file types.

to EDIT: doesnt work
to EDIT2: it will only save as a text file even when i try save as all files

dont have linux cd

tried fixboot didnt work now trying fix mbr..

can i just plug in other hdd i have load windows on to it and then access sata drives through there and just get files
then later reload windows and raid array

also i have a copy backup on my external HDD of windows just in case something goes wrong like now through retrospect program

but how do i access it and restore windows?

choose best of options


----------



## Blitz6804

In recovery console, does it see the file as boot.ini.txt? If so, we can work with that:

copy D:\\boot.ini.txt C:\\
ren boot.ini.txt boot.ini


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
In recovery console, does it see the file as boot.ini.txt? If so, we can work with that:

copy D:boot.ini.txt C:
ren boot.ini.txt boot.ini


doesnt work..


----------



## Blitz6804

Last option before getting drastic:

Do a repair installation of Windows.

If that fails, install Windows on the IDE, backup all important data from the RAID, reformat the RAID, reinstall Windows on the RAID.


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Last option before getting drastic:

Do a repair installation of Windows.

If that fails, install Windows on the IDE, backup all important data from the RAID, reformat the RAID, reinstall Windows on the RAID.


i feel like i owe the million dollars an hour for all this help..lol
hopefully i will be able to repay the favor


----------



## GuardianOdin

oops, have to correct myself. You DO need the CD/Floppy. Sorry about that

IF you can get into the Windows Repair. Then type FIXBOOT "Blitz correct me if that is the incorrect spelling" also here is a link to it.

How to Repair the Boot Sector Scroll down


----------



## Blitz6804

<redacted>


----------



## Bogeyone001

I am just going to go the route of of doing my ide and installing windows


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Again GuardianOdin, I think bootcfg only works on XP Pro. You are running XP Pro. Bogey is running XP Home, which explains why it failed.

im running xp pro

its actually a copy with unlimited computer installs..


----------



## Blitz6804

I retract my statement then. I presumed that since it just said Windows XP without further issue that you ran Home.

And for me, that is one too many mistakes. I am signing out for the night now; has been a long day anyway.


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I retract my statement then. I presumed that since it just said Windows XP without further issue that you ran Home.

And for me, that is one too many mistakes. I am signing out for the night now; has been a long day anyway.


Thanks for all your persisting help in this matter

I award the with over the internet commendation


----------



## N2Gaming

wow I was hopeing yea'll would pull it off and repair the system. don't let it get you down. just a learning curv you have to get through. some thing I have done in the past. is try to duplicate the problem so that I can find the best resolution to the problem.

Hey blitz: can you ghost hdd's loaded with xp in raid 0 configuration for diagnotic purposes. for example. I have 4 identical hdd's but only use two at a time. so I load os on two and then gost the other two and pull for later use if needed. let me know if that did not make any sense I'll refrase it.


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
wow I was hopeing yea'll would pull it off and repair the system. don't let it get you down. just a learning curv you have to get through. some thing I have done in the past. is try to duplicate the problem so that I can find the best resolution to the problem.

Hey blitz: can you ghost hdd's loaded with xp in raid 0 configuration for diagnotic purposes. for example. I have 4 identical hdd's but only use two at a time. so I load os on two and then gost the other two and pull for later use if needed. let me know if that did not make any sense I'll refrase it.

its ok its just time consuming


----------



## HothBase

Hey, I'm wondering...
At the moment my RAM sticks are kind of mixed... 1 pair of Infineon sticks, 1 A-Data stick & 1 "noname"(no idea where i got that one







)
What is there to be gained from running a pair of matched sticks in dual-channel compared to having this random setup that I have?

And I would like to know if this is something good worth getting.
CORSAIR ValueSelect 2x1GB
I know that it's like *$20* with the MIR _but_ unfortunately I don't live in the US







so I have to pay something closer to the original *$60* to get them where I live.

*Edit:* Oh, and if i _do_ get new RAM, would it be better to use only the 2x1GB or the 2x512MB Infineon sticks with that aswell, or would that result in performance loss?
Here is some info on my (single sided) Infineon sticks.
Attachment 84652


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
Hey, I'm wondering...
At the moment my RAM sticks are kind of mixed... 1 pair of Infineon sticks, 1 A-Data stick & 1 "noname"(no idea where i got that one







)
What is there to be gained from running a pair of matched sticks in dual-channel compared to having this random setup that I have?

And I would like to know if this is something good worth getting.
CORSAIR ValueSelect 2x1GB
I know that it's like *$20* with the MIR _but_ unfortunately I don't live in the US







so I have to pay something closer to the original *$60* to get them where I live.

*Edit:* Oh, and if i _do_ get new RAM, would it be better to use only the 2x1GB or the 2x512MB Infineon sticks with that aswell, or would that result in performance loss?
Here is some info on my (single sided) Infineon sticks.
Attachment 84652

Matched stick provide much better stability when overclocking.


----------



## HothBase

Is that all? No impact on performance or anything like that?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
Is that all? No impact on performance or anything like that?

Increased speeds with Dual channel, Plus the fact they are MADE to work with other properly.


----------



## Bogeyone001

ok so my computer works just fine again except running off my older 160Gb instead of the gigantic storage i had before...
but that will be fixed tomorrow or next day at the latest.. just need to retrieve files and restore..

THEN>>>> back to overclocking the hell out of everything
woot..!

I was looking up some stats and a few people got their rigs up to 3.2 or even 3.4 on air or water with same cpu and same mb and same amount of ram.

Is it possible for my rig to get that high.. over 3.0?

not that i can anyways without proper cooling which i dont have..

i will be happy if i can get my rig to 3.0


----------



## HothBase

Look at this setup:
Slot *A1*(blue)
1GB Corsair

Slot *A2*(black)
512MB Infineon

Slot *B1*(blue)
1GB Corsair

Slot *B2*(black)
512MB Infineon

What I want to know is if is recommended or not to run them like this, 2 different pairs composed of matching sticks (X&X + Y&Y), or just 1 pair (X&X).
I don't know if the 2 pairs will effect one another because they are not identical.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


Look at this setup:
Slot *A1*(blue)
1GB Corsair

Slot *A2*(black)
512MB Infineon

Slot *B1*(blue)
1GB Corsair

Slot *B2*(black)
512MB Infineon

What I want to know is if is recommended or not to run them like this, 2 different pairs composed of matching sticks (X&X + Y&Y), or just 1 pair (X&X).
I don't know if the 2 pairs will effect one another because they are not identical.


Joe or Blitz could better explain than I could.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
Look at this setup:
Slot *A1*(blue)
1GB Corsair

Slot *A2*(black)
512MB Infineon

Slot *B1*(blue)
1GB Corsair

Slot *B2*(black)
512MB Infineon

What I want to know is if is recommended or not to run them like this, 2 different pairs composed of matching sticks (X&X + Y&Y), or just 1 pair (X&X).
I don't know if the 2 pairs will effect one another because they are not identical.


Usually it's not good to mix RAM because from what I've read in the past, it can cause some conflict which could screw with how your computer runs.

Bogey, this time, I would say try to finish your OC'ing before you start putting your programs on. Find out the max you're gonna be able to OC your CPU and RAM and then once you've found it, make sure it's stable in Orthos, and then install all your programs and stuff again.


----------



## GuardianOdin

the last I ran mixed kits, they were Corsair DDR400 and Ultra XL DDR400 both had 2-2-2-5 Timings "been a while but I think those numbers are correct" I had nothing but issues. Unstable overclocks and an unstable rig at stock.


----------



## Blitz6804

You should rarely, if ever, mix RAM densities. True, you cannot use more than 3 GB or so in a 32-bit OS, you would be better served doing 4x1024 MB than 2x1024 MB + 2x512 MB. Even if the DIMMs have the same timings, and in fact, are the same Internal Memory Chips, you may still have problems. My Gigabyte board would not POST at all with mixed densities. Even if I tried to set it to 3-5-5-10-2T prior to installing the second kit, it would not boot with both kits. (Either kit on their own worked fine.)

Glad to hear you are back online Bogey, I am sorry we could not fix it. I agree with Pez: run stock to install Windows, install Orthos, then get a stable overclock. This way, if you trash another Operating System, you can just reinstall without needing to do this again. To answer your question: just because someone can get 3.0 GHz with their 3800+ does not mean that you will. In fact, someone might not be able to get over 2.5 GHz with your chip and motherboard, but when you do it, you get it to 2.6. As Joe says, "your mileage may vary."

N2Gaming, I know nothing about ghosting. Ask txtmstrjoe. I have always ran my computers without ghosting or imaging. Perhaps because I have not yet hosed an operating system and thus have seen no reason to do so.


----------



## HothBase

I did some research and i hear alot of good things about these RAM sticks.
Crucial PC3200 DDR-DIMM CL3 KIT
Newegg...

I will probably get a pair of these and replace my old mixed setup which is currently kind of limiting my oveclocking options.
Does anyone have anything to say about these before I get 'em?

Oh, and are RAM heat sink/spreaders worth buying? If so, recommend any?


----------



## Blitz6804

I would not recommend buying that RAM. It is designed to run at 3-4-4-8 @ DDR 400*, which would be the same thing you are running now. The RAM you have is Dual-Channel. If your computer is stable, it would be an unneeded expense.

Regards heat sinks: they would permit you to overvolt the RAM. JEDEC standard is 2.5 V. The RAM you are looking at needs 2.6 V. Many enthusiast RAMs user higher voltage to permit tighter timings. Provided that you have IMCs on the RAM that can clock tighter, voltage will help. Heat spreaders, as you find on my enthusiast RAM DIMMs, would permit you to clock tighter then. I would recommend, given the price, it would be better to just buy better RAM in the first place.

*These RAM cannot even run JEDEC standard (3-4-4-8 @ 2.5 V when running DDR 400), which should give you reason to pause on them.


----------



## HothBase

All right, what do you have to say about these then?
Kingston HyperX (2-3-2-6-1)

Now, if these aren't good, then i sure ass hell don't know what to do.








These are the the best I can find over here without paying too much.


----------



## Blitz6804

That would be an outstanding purchase based solely on the numbers. Remember though, you need two of them for 2 GB, as that is a single DIMM and not a kit.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
can you ghost hdd's loaded with xp in raid 0 configuration for diagnotic purposes. for example. I have 4 identical hdd's but only use two at a time. so I load os on two and then gost the other two and pull for later use if needed. let me know if that did not make any sense I'll refrase it.

N2Gaming, this certainly is possible. Make sure the ghost CD has the appropriate drivers to read the raid controller. If your using a LiveCD(which is similiar to what I have at work) make sure that has the drivers as well. My LiveCD has Ghost on it so it works out perfectly. If everything is loaded properly then ghost should see the drive as a single partition.

Good luck


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
That would be an outstanding purchase based solely on the numbers. Remember though, you need two of them for 2 GB, as that is a single DIMM and not a kit.

Blitz, that other ram that you have for sale that has a different ending in the serial number? What's the difference b/w that and the ram I just received from you? Would they have trouble running w/ one another?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

A general piece of advice when buying RAM: Always try to do as much research as you can regarding any RAM kit you might be interested in. What do you research, specifically? The most important factor in any type of overclocking RAM is the IC (Integrated Circuit) on which the RAM is based; what type of IC it has determines the abilities (strengths and weaknesses) of that RAM.

As far as I know, for 2GB DDR kits, the most commonly available ICs are Infineon/Aeneon CE-5/CE-6 and Hynix D43s. Crucial runs Micron ICs (Micron owns Crucial), but their Ballistix DDR kits are hard to find and expensive. Samsung also makes DDR (or, they used to, at least), but they are quite rare these days.

Don't fixate on brands/manufacturers except when considering price or warranty terms. Some brands are overpriced; others are great values.









When I have time, I'll post some DDR IC information (some of which is available in the "AMD Memory" sub-section) on here, including general descriptions of their capabilities.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
That would be an outstanding purchase based solely on the numbers. Remember though, you need two of them for 2 GB, as that is a single DIMM and not a kit.

Thanks, and yeah, I know. I'll get 2 of these.
They actually sell a pair of these together in the same package, but for some stupid
reason it is more expensive than buying two packages consisting of one stick each.


----------



## Blitz6804

There is absolutely no difference Pez. They have the identical ICs. Further, I personally ran all four DIMMs simultaneously on two different motherboards.

HothBase: sold together simply means they are guaranteed to work at the posted speeds when paired. The single sticks may both get the posted speed separately and independently, but not together. At least, that is how I understood the distinction.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
HothBase: sold together simply means they are guaranteed to work at the posted speeds when paired. The single sticks may both get the posted speed separately and independently, but not together. At least, that is how I understood the distinction.

Oh? I don't really see how that makes sense.








They are all of the same model, how come the sticks packaged together will work better than the separate ones?


----------



## Blitz6804

They will not work better. They are just guaranteed to work. Buying them separately comes with no such guarantee.


----------



## HothBase

But they still _should_ work together just as well, shouldn't they?


----------



## Blitz6804

Absolutely they should. I have in the past bought RAM as single DIMMs and have not had problems.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


But they still _should_ work together just as well, shouldn't they?


HothBase, if the IC's are the same, sub-timings and frequency then I would imagine they would. Check the serial numbers as well. Some of the "valueselect" memory that is sold is most likely failed sticks of the "performance" memory, kind of like a tri-core is a quad with one disabled core (I hope that is the right analogy to use).

As Blitz noted, they are guaranteed to work together so it's advisable to go with a matching set.

Good luck


----------



## HothBase

Oh, goodie!








That means I don't have to pay extra.








But let's say I do get a pair packaged together. What could possibly make them not work together? How come they have that kind of guarantee? I can't possibly see why they would not work unless they are in some way broken! In which case, I would simply ask for a replacement.

Edit: Oh, well I guess thlnk3r's post kinda explains it.
It just feels so silly that I have to pay extra for that reason.


----------



## Blitz6804

Exactly what I mean. If you buy a kit, and you find that one of the DIMMs is broken not permitting them to work as posted, you send the kit back for another. (RMA must send both DIMMs, unlike two singles, which in the event of one broken DIMM you only send the broken one in.)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


Oh, goodie!








That means I don't have to pay extra.








But let's say I do get a pair packaged together. What could possibly make them not work together? How come they have that kind of guarantee? I can't possibly see why they would not work unless they are in some way broken! In which case, I would simply ask for a replacement.

Edit: Oh, well I guess thlnk3r's post kinda explains it.


Hoth, I might of missed this but what memory are we questioning? Is this performance memory versus valued memory? There is a huge difference. The performance memory has been tested and advertised to perform beyond expectations of JEDEC standards. Value memory is just as it sounds. Usually the overclocking results of value memory is lower versus performance memory.

Good luck


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Exactly what I mean. If you buy a kit, and you find that one of the DIMMs is broken not permitting them to work as posted, you send the kit back for another. (RMA must send both DIMMs, unlike two singles, which in the event of one broken DIMM you only send the broken one in.)


Wait, now I am confused.
If one stick out of a pair is malfunctioning in some way, I send both sticks in and get new ones.
Now, if one stick out of two separate ones is keeping them from working together, I just send that one in and get a new one.
Either way, i still get two working sticks, so what is the real difference?
















*Edit!*

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Hoth, I might of missed this but what memory are we questioning?


2 x 1GB (This option is cheaper where I live)
or
1 x 2GB (This would cost around $10 more)
That's what.


----------



## Blitz6804

Okay... let us say you buy a 2x1024 MB kit. One of the DIMMs is broken. You send in both DIMMs for replacement.

Let us say you buy two, 1024 MB DIMMs. One of the DIMMs are broken. You send in only the broken DIMM for replacement.

Yes, it is a minute, and perhaps a nearly transparent, distinction.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


2 x 1GB (This option is cheaper where I live)
or
1 x 2GB (This would cost around $10 more)
That's what.










HothBase, the two choices are identical in speeds just that one is a dual channel kit and the other is by itself as a single stick. For comparison, here is the data sheets from Kingston: (click the model number for more details)

KHX3200A/1G
KHX3200AK2/2GR

The timings are 2-3-2-6 1T. I believe the KHX3200AK2 is Winbound CH-5 which I am also assuming the KHX3200A to be as well. The older KHX3200 came with BH-5.

Hope that helps


----------



## HothBase

Ok, that didn't really make things much clearer in my eyes








But from what i gathered, I assume you are saying that the KHX3200AK2/2GR Dual Channel Kit is better?


----------



## Blitz6804

He is saying that both cases SHOULD be identical. I am curious, does the place you would order from charge shipping per order or per item? If per item, after shipping, it may be cheaper to go the kit option.


----------



## HothBase

No, It is per order








OK, so if I get two sticks (2 different packages, same model) and it all works.
Then there is no difference whatsoever compared to the packaged kit?


----------



## Blitz6804

Correct.


----------



## HothBase

Oh, cool.
I'll order 2 of those then








I can buy Crysis for the ~$10 I save. I hear it is a good game.


----------



## Blitz6804

In my opinion, it is not. It is basically an interactive, slanted benchmark. The plot is not very good. The physics are not bad, but the play control is not the best.


----------



## N2Gaming

yeah I have ghost 6.0 and I dont even know what LIVECD is


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
yeah I have ghost 6.0 and I dont even know what LIVECD is

N2Gaming, here is more details on what a "LiveCD" is: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Live_CD. Basically it's a bootable CD that contains an OS(operating system). Usually in that OS there are applications that you can run(ghost, avast, acronis). Some LiveCD's have different apps so it depends. Mind you this is all done outside of the operating system that is on your local hard drive. If the CD has the appropriate drivers for the specific raid controller then it should have no problems seeing the array. Have you tried running ghost within your Windows OS? Make sure to back up everything before you try this.

Good luck


----------



## pez

Well blitz, I see it's pending, so if they aren't sold and they're still up, I might be interested in that pair too. It'll be a while again, but I'm still interested.

EDIT: I know I keep bringing this up, but some people are telling me to get a 98/88gt b/c the 4850 would be a waste. I keep getting turned around, and I don't know what to get anymore







.


----------



## Blitz6804

I will talk to the pender of the RAM to see if he is deadset on it. If not, I will hook you up.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

pez, amongst the 9800/8800 (G92) and the HD 4850, I would get the HD 4850. To my eyes, ATi's image quality is superior to any nVidia GPU. I believe it's also the better bargain in terms of performance for dollar.

If the argument is based on the notion that getting an HD 4850 is a "waste" because the GPU is faster than the rest of the system, I would disregard it immediately myself. Why? This argument is only valid if benchmarking is your end-all be-all reason for getting a good video card. Me, I hate benchmarks myself since it doesn't help me enjoy the real reason why you buy a GPU in the first place, which is, namely, to be able to play your favorite games with as good a visual experience as possible. Knowing one card is a better performer by x% is useless to me because I'd rather play the game.

But if benchmarking is your real *raison d'etre* for getting a better video card, well... the rest of your system will hold you back.

As would the size of your wallet.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
pez, amongst the 9800/8800 (G92) and the HD 4850, I would get the HD 4850. To my eyes, ATi's image quality is superior to any nVidia GPU. I believe it's also the better bargain in terms of performance for dollar.

If the argument is based on the notion that getting an HD 4850 is a "waste" because the GPU is faster than the rest of the system, I would disregard it immediately myself. Why? This argument is only valid if benchmarking is your end-all be-all reason for getting a good video card. Me, I hate benchmarks myself since it doesn't help me enjoy the real reason why you buy a GPU in the first place, which is, namely, to be able to play your favorite games with as good a visual experience as possible. Knowing one card is a better performer by x% is useless to me because I'd rather play the game.

But if benchmarking is your real *raison d'etre* for getting a better video card, well... the rest of your system will hold you back.

As would the size of your wallet.









Yeah, I like seeing things like that so I don't get too discouraged. Benchmarking high is nice, but I just want to play my games at playabel fps.

Just let me knwo blitz







.


----------



## Blitz6804

I too would get the 4850. Then again, my ATI bias is thoroughly documented by this point. My reasons are as Joe has said though; ATI tends to "look nicer" even if there are less frames per second. (With a 4850 against an 8800, I doubt that.) Further, unless I am mistaken, the 4850 uses less power. If I remember correctly, it only needs one 75-watt PCI-E connector.

Regards the RAM; the pender told me that he'd rather you have it. Accordingly, you are now the pender.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I too would get the 4850. Then again, my ATI bias is thoroughly documented by this point. My reasons are as Joe has said though; ATI tends to "look nicer" even if there are less frames per second. (With a 4850 against an 8800, I doubt that.) Further, unless I am mistaken, the 4850 uses less power. If I remember correctly, it only needs one 75-watt PCI-E connector.

Regards the RAM; the pender told me that he'd rather you have it. Accordingly, you are now the pender.


YAY! It will be a while before I'm able to get it, as my paycheck is pretty much dedicated to the new video card and then gas for my car :/. But I am definitely interested.


----------



## Bogeyone001

Hey all how is it going


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
the 4850 uses less power. If I remember correctly, it only needs one 75-watt PCI-E connector.

Blitz, it may only use a single 6-pin power connector but surprisingly the 4850 actually consumes more power (wattage at full load) then a 8800GT. A 9800GTX is more on par with the 4850 power consumption numbers.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

It's going good. I spent the later part of my day modding my 939 rig. I fabricated a cheep mans ram cooler, take a look. I originall started out trying to do this for the heat shinks located right in front of the cpu fan. I need to cool down my panel temps they get above 50C under load. That is gonna be a little more difficult so this is what I did in the mean time. Tell me whacha tink. I'm so tired after that little bid of modding.
























now why are the pictures not showing. I put them in my photo album here take a look http://www.overclock.net/album.php?u=72839


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


It's going good. I spent the later part of my day modding my 939 rig. I fabricated a cheep mans ram cooler, take a look. I originall started out trying to do this for the heat shinks located right in front of the cpu fan. I need to cool down my panel temps they get above 50C under load. That is gonna be a little more difficult so this is what I did in the mean time. Tell me whacha tink. I'm so tired after that little bid of modding.



























where is it to look at ..lol 
and i dont know how tired you are cuz ive never modded anything pc before.. but thats why im here because ive always been crazy into that stuff but have no life with school.. 
aerospace engineering takes 199.999 percent of my time other than my computer gaming and video rendering projects

Edit:
i would like to get a watercooling system for xmas and my gf is going to get me half of whatever it is.
not concerned about money .. not that im rich.. i wish besides people here all the time prove you dont need mass amounts of money to do awesome stuff
















but to start with just cpu cooling for now what would be som excellent stuff to look at

Edit: sweet ghetto stuff is always cool because you get to see peoples unique ideas and creations.. i have been just looking at crazy stuff all night..+ i cant sleep
Hmm i have 3 extra fans laying around cuz i just got my new antec case.. i shall devise a way to use them in my setup

Edit: also this is to anyone whats a good temp monitoring app because i tried hwmonitor and it showed the same temps for eveything all the time.. so obviously not working for me

wow that is pretty amzing what he is doing with a camera case


----------



## N2Gaming

This is probably not what you had in mind but here is something to look at when your interested in looking at pictures of other peoples rigs and the types of modifications possible. It will get that little hamster wheel running in a hurry. Enjoy... Cheers with RootBeers. http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-wo...elligence.html


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


The timings are 2-3-2-6 1T. I believe the KHX3200AK2 is Winbound CH-5 which I am also assuming the KHX3200A to be as well. The older KHX3200 came with BH-5.


Yeah, I did some Googling and found out that all sticks with an 'A' in their names are CH-5. These are supposed to be the newer models since they stopped making the BH-5 ones.
I suppose this means that the KHX3200A and the KHX3200AK2 have the same IC and are therefore identical?

Anyway, which one is the better? Old BH-5 or the new CH-5? Is the CH-5 a good IC?
Edit: Looks like the old BH-5 is some kind of super overclocker.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

@ HothBase: BH-5s are a K8 overclocker's golden RAM, especially if you've got a DFI LANParty board which can feed these monsters the VDIMM that they crave.







The key with Winbond ICs like BH-5 is that they really require upwards of 3.1-3.2V to hold high frequencies WITH super-tight timings. I've even read stories of some BH-5 sticks not allowing a system to POST if the VDIMM is less than 3.0V... at stock...

CH-5s, though, are still quite good. But to fully make use of Winbonds of any variety to their maximum potential, your motherboard is the key.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


@ HothBase: BH-5s are a K8 overclocker's golden RAM, especially if you've got a DFI LANParty board which can feed these monsters the VDIMM that they crave.







The key with Winbond ICs like BH-5 is that they really require upwards of 3.1-3.2V to hold high frequencies WITH super-tight timings. I've even read stories of some BH-5 sticks not allowing a system to POST if the VDIMM is less than 3.0V... at stock...

CH-5s, though, are still quite good. But to fully make use of Winbonds of any variety to their maximum potential, your motherboard is the key.


Yes, you must own the greatness that is DFI "insert dramatic music here"


----------



## Blitz6804

Hey Joe, what is the difference between Winbound CH-5 and Infineon CH-5? (The former of which Bogey is purchasing, the latter of which Pez has purchased.)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Hey Joe, what is the difference between Winbound CH-5 and Infineon CH-5? (The former of which Bogey is purchasing, the latter of which Pez has purchased.)


Actually, pez has bought Infineon *CE*-5/*CE*-6 (and not CH-5).









Big differences, actually. Winbond's legendary BH-5s are extremely voltage hungry, and they have this great property of being able to have both super-tight timings (CAS Lat of 1.5 is possible on some DFI LANParty boards, just to give you an indication) and high frequencies (DDR500 and above for many).

Despite sounding like the "perfect" RAM for DDR K8s, running it to their maximum capabilities may be difficult if not impossible for some setups. First and foremost, not all motherboards (a select few, in fact) are able to deliver the kind of voltage that BH-5 needs for maximum performance. Go look at your BIOS options and see how high your VDIMM goes. I bet you 3.2V is the most that it will give, and BH-5 is just starting to warm up at that point.







Second, running such high voltage into your RAM means they require active cooling to keep them hale and hearty. Third, BH-5 DIMMs were, at most, 512MB, meaning that to run 2GB you would need four sticks (which, of course, adds stress to the IMC and may disable the ability to run 2T Command Rate).

I think the fact that BH-5 (and its other Winbond siblings, BH-6, CH-5, and CH-6) were "restricted" to 512MB size at most is what doomed them ultimately; around 2005 the first 1GB DIMMs with slightly less performance than the magical Winbonds (among them the Infineon ICs, some Samsung IC varieties, and Micron ICs) came on the market and consigned the Winbonds to oblivion. Tight timings and low latencies are great, but the high voltage demands and the low densities ran contrary to the demands of the market, which dictated a shift to larger RAM capacities and lower VDIMM requirements (trends that continue to this day). Infineon CE-5 and CE-6s, in my experience, are the best available DDR ICs today with their ability to scale to DDR500 and beyond with relative ease. Their relatively low 2.8V max VDIMM (you throw more voltage at them, but at the risk of killing them prematurely) means they tend to stay healthy for longer, but the fact that they come in 1GB per DIMM is a huge advantage compared to the old-style Winbonds. Nothing like the mix of pragmatism and performance.









I've never owned a set of Winbonds, so my comments are based purely on my research on them. I kinda wish I had a set, if only to get the experience with them.

I have a better shot at racing a Formula 1 car, though, I think...


----------



## Blitz6804

Ah, what a difference one lousy letter will make.

My Gigabyte had an option to run 1.5 CAS Latency. Given that it could only provide 2.77 V, I am dubious that *ANY* RAM could actually do it despite how slow I made it. Maybe for fun one of these days, before they leave, I should try taking my Corsairs to DDR 200 to see if they will do CAS of 1.5. Sure, performance likely is not great, but it would still be fun to see.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Infineon CE-5 and CE-6s, in my experience, are the best available DDR ICs today with their ability to scale to DDR500 and beyond with relative ease.

My old Infineon sticks say HYB25D512800CE-5, they just _can't_ possibly be the same IC as the ones you are talking about, can they?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hothbase, those old Infineons indeed are CE-5s.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Hothbase, those old Infineons indeed are CE-5s.









Are you sure? Because in that case, this sucks!
You see, I bought these from a guy who was selling parts of his old rig cause he was buying a new one. I knew very little about this kind of stuff at the time, he had 4 of these, but since I already had 2 sticks in my rig, I figured I'd just get 2 more.
If only I had known, I would have gotten all 4 instead.








Attachment 84738

I suppose I could run on just the 2 CE-5 sticks instead, and then try overclocking from there, but 1GB isn't really that much, is it. =/


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Ah, what a difference one lousy letter will make.

My Gigabyte had an option to run 1.5 CAS Latency. Given that it could only provide 2.77 V, I am dubious that *ANY* RAM could actually do it despite how slow I made it. Maybe for fun one of these days, before they leave, I should try taking my Corsairs to DDR 200 to see if they will do CAS of 1.5. Sure, performance likely is not great, but it would still be fun to see.

So what does this mean regarding the other ram blitz? I read what txtmstrjoe said, but I'm still quite lost.


----------



## HothBase

Well, do you still figure I should get the KHX3200A?
I don't think they are Winbond as you said, I'm not sure though, as I am no expert.








www.thinkcomputers.org review
Attachment 84739


----------



## Blitz6804

He had said that some boards (DFI for one; my Gigabyte for another) have the option in the BIOS to run the RAM at a CAS latency of 1.5. My Gigabyte board however supplies, at max, 2.77 V. Thus, I said I am dubious that despite having the physical ability to run some RAM at 1.5 CL, I am practically limited to no tighter than 2.0.


----------



## iandroo888

i believe asus can go down to 1.5 or 2.5 as well.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Just to be perfectly clear, a couple of points about the BH-5s:

The RAM might be capable of running insanely low latencies, but your motherboard must be able to run sub-2.0CL settings.

Your motherboard must be able to deliver a ton of voltage to the RAM; this feature is really the key to exploiting the Winbonds to the max.
Without these two capabilities, you can't hope to begin extracting the max from BH-5s (or even their lesser siblings).









Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
i believe asus can go down to 1.5 or 2.5 as well.

WHICH ASUS board?

Unless I'm mistaken, I don't think my A8N32-SLI Deluxe goes to CAS Lat 1.5...


----------



## Blitz6804

Neoseeker likes to think that 1.5 CL is an option.


----------



## billbartuska

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I don't think my A8N32-SLI Deluxe goes to CAS Lat 1.5...

Yes it does.

I went the other way TCCD. Blazing fast speed. mehhh latencies. I've got 2 x 512 sticks that boot at DDR665.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Neoseeker likes to think that 1.5 CL is an option.

I will have to recheck my BIOS, then. It might be that the most current BIOSes (1303, 1405) may have removed that option.

Or txtmstrjoe needs more VDIMM to HIS onboard RAM... defective memory leads to corrupt data retention, clearly...









Good job on checking, Blitzer.


----------



## billbartuska

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I will have to recheck my BIOS, then. It might be that the most current BIOSes (1303, 1405) may have removed that option.

Or txtmstrjoe needs more VDIMM to HIS onboard RAM... defective memory leads to corrupt data retention, clearly...









Good job on checking, Blitzer.


1405 is good for CAS 1.5


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *billbartuska*


1405 is good for CAS 1.5


Roger that, billbartuska. Thank you for the correction.


----------



## billbartuska

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Roger that, billbartuska. Thank you for the correction.



















Not correction, encouragement!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Hey Joe, what is the difference between Winbound CH-5 and Infineon CH-5? (The former of which Bogey is purchasing, the latter of which Pez has purchased.)


I didnt know i was purchasing ram?


----------



## Blitz6804

Sorry, wrong name. I meant Hothbase. *Shoves dummy Blitz into the closet.*


----------



## iandroo888

i beleive it was the a8n32-sli that wen to 1.5 i remember it having .5 steps. which exactly iunoe cuz im currently in processor of RMAing psu.


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Sorry, wrong name. I meant Hothbase. *Shoves dummy Blitz into the closet.*


haha its ok


----------



## N2Gaming

Can anyone tell me if this is a NF4 UT LP SLI DR EXPERT. I just bought it on ebay and want to make sure it is what I think it is.








http://www.overclock.net/album.php?a...pictureid=2255

Thank you.


----------



## Blitz6804

The gray box between the retention frame and the northbridge fan; does that Expert on it? I cannot see from the picture, but is there the sound module attached? Here is what one looks like for the record:









(Courtesy of DFI Taiwan)

EDIT: No, definitely not a Venus.


----------



## N2Gaming

yeah i dont know either this is one of those shot in the dark purchases on ebay for $9.99 + $10.00 shipping I did not want to ask seller to many questions and let him know what he was selling. hopefully it works from what I can tell It's not the venus becuase it does not have all aluminum caps so I would suspect its the expert. and My LP NF4 SLI DR is laid out differently so that's why I ask if it was the expert...

Edit: sorry forgot to answer about the audi. Answer is I'll let you know when I get it. and thank you for the pictures from what I can see it has the black 24 pin power connector and no cap between sli vid slots and in the picture of the venus shows white 24 pin power connector w/cap between sli vid cards.


----------



## pez

'Nother question. In BIOS, I have the option for the CPU Fan to be "Always On" or for "S.M.A.R.T.". I think putting it on SMART would make my computer a bit quieter, but I don't want my computer to start BSOD'ing. Do you guys think it would be safe to turn on the SMART, or should I just leave it at always on?


----------



## Blitz6804

That is a matter of personal opinion. I am of the mindset "anything to keep it quieter and using less electricity is fine by me." Others will say "performance or silence, you cannot have both." Try turning it on if you want. Your CPU temp at idle will likely be higher, but at load, it should be about the same. (As the fan will ramp up as it heats up.)


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


That is a matter of personal opinion. I am of the mindset "anything to keep it quieter and using less electricity is fine by me." Others will say "performance or silence, you cannot have both." Try turning it on if you want. Your CPU temp at idle will likely be higher, but at load, it should be about the same. (As the fan will ramp up as it heats up.)


Yeah, I just wanted a group opinion. I keep my computer on basically 24/7 and I only restart for updates etc.


----------



## Bogeyone001

i actually didnt notice much of a temp difference when i put it on smart..


----------



## Bogeyone001

i do the same with all my case fans and psu keep it on silent till im rdy to do something


----------



## Bogeyone001

hey N2Gaming hows the fan rig working for ya?

Edit: sry for the triple post didnt realize it till it was too late.. thats how much ive been studying.. i need a break


----------



## N2Gaming

Bogey, they are working ok. I noticed my panel temps came down while my chip set temps rose. I'm thinking it's becuase I,m using extra voltage from the power supply by adding additional fans. I have 13 fans in the system right now. 4 in the front, 1 cpu, 1 chip- set, 1 video card, 3 over memory, 1 out the back and 2 power supply "intake and exhauset" I will unplug some of the fans and see if it makes a difference with-in the ITE smartguardian while under P95 load. Right now I have to uninstall ite sg becuase it's not working. when i get sg working then i'll unplug fans and test and repost results. I'm thinking this rig is about due for a fresh install of windows but don't want to do to much at a time. I want to get my temperatures stable before I persue overclocking. Additionally I have a new opteron 180 with bent pins that i makeshift repaired before installing. So I'm trying to be as carefull as possible and doing as much research my little brain can handle at a time. I have old outdated dimms in my brain. they are slow, defective and dont hold a lot of info







caps on myself. I have not been able to make any overclock changes that would alow me to boot into windows. So I'm starting with temperature controll and I'll take it from there.







Cheers w/rootbeets


----------



## Bogeyone001

sounds like a plan.. ive been checking my temps as well and think i am going to lap my cpu to help that as well as get an aftermarket cooler.
i would like to pursue water cooling but for the price that is not an option right now and will be fine with just a new cpu fan/hs.. the one i have now sucks.. well not really but it doesnt do much...

haha rootbeets....lol

my idle temps run about 35 to 37 when i just on the net and thats all stock


----------



## N2Gaming

Yeah you have a nice case. lots of room for raid drives fans etc. is your board just a nf4 or do you know the specific model?


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Yeah you have a nice case. lots of room for raid drives fans etc. is your board just a nf4 or do you know the specific model?

where exactly would i find the model? will cpuz tell me or do i have to look on the board?

o and thanks







i like it a lot.. especially compared to my mid tower blue acrylic case..
the extra room is very nice along with fan controlers for all 6 case fans and an optionl window fan but i dont htink it will fit once i get a new cpu cooler


----------



## N2Gaming

the board should have a sticker on the side one of the pci slots. that should have model and revision.

edit: you can see it with a mirror if its to hard to see in the case.

Edit again: you may hae to remove your video card to see the sticker if it's located on the first pci-e slot


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
the board should have a sticker on the side one of the pci slots. that should have model and revision.

edit you can see it with a mirror if its to hard to see in the case.


hmm .. my cpu cooler seems to be blocking it







but i think its on cpu-z

model= lp nf4 series 1.0
rev = a3
lcpio= ite it8712

correct?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bogeyone001* 
where exactly would i find the model? will cpuz tell me or do i have to look on the board?

o and thanks







i like it a lot.. especially compared to my mid tower blue acrylic case..
the extra room is very nice along with fan controlers for all 6 case fans and an optionl window fan but i dont htink it will fit once i get a new cpu cooler

Bogeyone001, try looking up the model number through Everest. On the left click the Motherboard drop down menu and then click on Motherboard again. It may list the model number next to "Motherboard Name". Also check to see if anything is labeled on the PCB.

Good luck









In regards to the recent discussion about ram IC's, I can tell you this...the Hynix D5/D43's that are on my G.Skill set can hardly OC at all. What is very strange is there is nothing labeled on the actual physical IC's. I'm assuming it's Hynix but what most websites have said.


----------



## N2Gaming

uh I don't know. I'd look at the sticker to know for sure. you can probably pwr dwn and remove video card instead of cpu cooler. I have a zalman 9700 with a antec 120 mm led fan just barely fits touches fins on zalman. oh wait that was with the m2n now that I have m2n32 it fists with a few hairs to spare. I don't know about the dfi board in that chassis.

Edit: sure would be a shocker if you had a venus!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
In regards to the recent discussion about ram IC's, I can tell you this...the Hynix D5/D43's that are on my G.Skill set can hardly OC at all. What is very strange is there is nothing labeled on the actual physical IC's. I'm assuming it's Hynix but what most websites have said.

I remeber being told to stay away from hynix ram when I built my sytem. I went as far as making sure my video card did not use hynix ram.


----------



## Bogeyone001

o dear.. my cpu fan seems to be on the fritz.... as in it moves about as much as a dead guiy in a coffin 6 feet under







and i have it set to always on. that could explain my temps being slightly high

i think the time for a new cooler has just arrived









thanks thinker i will try using everest .. and as to removing my GPU the sticker is not on that side... it wont help to remove it.. the cpu fan its blocking it and i dont want to re seat it.

Edit: here is what everest says
Motherboard ID06/23/2005-NF-CK804-6A61FD49C-00


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
uh I don't know. I'd look at the sticker to know for sure. you can probably pwr dwn and remove video card instead of cpu cooler. I have a zalman 9700 with a antec 120 mm led fan just barely fits touches fins on zalman. oh wait that was with the m2n now that I have m2n32 it fists with a few hairs to spare. I don't know about the dfi board in that chassis.

Edit: sure would be a shocker if you had a venus!









I think i have plenty of room for a decent cooler to fit in the rig


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bogeyone001* 
o dear.. my cpu fan seems to be on the fritz.... as in it moves about as much as a dead guiy in a coffin 6 feet under







and i have it set to always on. that could explain my temps being slightly high

i think the time for a new cooler has just arrived









Bogeyone001, this is some what typical for these motherboards. The fan on my DFI board also went south. If you don't have anything available for replacement then could always peel back the sticker on the fan and squirt a few drops of wd-40 to lubricate the bearings. The heat separates the oil/grease causing the bearings to cease up which may be the case in your situation. RC car lubricant is also useful.

For your reference, I run a Thermalright HR-05-SLI on my chipset. You can run the cooler passively or with a 70mm fan.

Hope that helps


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Bogeyone001, if you have a picture of your motherboard, I can probably identify it for you.


----------



## N2Gaming

think3r. are you thinking what i'm thinking. he said cpu fan as you quoted him on it, not chipset fan


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Bogeyone001, this is some what typical for these motherboards. The fan on my DFI board also went south. If you don't have anything available for replacement then could always peel back the sticker on the fan and squirt a few drops of wd-40 to lubricate the bearings. The heat separates the oil/grease causing the bearings to cease up which may be the case in your situation. RC car lubricant is also useful.

For your reference, I run a Thermalright HR-05-SLI on my chipset. You can run the cooler passively or with a 70mm fan.

Hope that helps









why thank you.. .. but it wasnt that great to begin with so i believe an upgrade is def in order

N2Gaming and that was that waht you were looking for about the mobo


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Bogeyone001, if you have a picture of your motherboard, I can probably identify it for you.









the pictures are pretty crummy and i dont have one of it alone.. but now that you mention pictures i think i am going to post some that i took with my phone.. hope they are not too crummy


----------



## Bogeyone001

last two

btw the cable management in this thing is great :-0


----------



## N2Gaming

looks similar to my board. hard to tell with you hardward installed and those pictures.

edit : from the looks of it you have a sli board for sure.


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
looks similar to my board. hard to tell with you hardward installed and those pictures.

yea it was with my cell and im not taking it all off to take a picture..

Edit i know its sli for sure


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Bogeyone001, looks like you have either a DFI LANParty UT Ultra D or a LANParty UT SLI-D/SLI-DR.

Does your board do SLI without mods? If so, then it's the SLI-D. If it has eight SATA ports, it's the SLI-DR.

If it only has four SATA ports and no SLI capability (despite having two PCI-E graphics slots), it's an Ultra D.

Hope this helps!


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Bogeyone001, looks like you have either a DFI LANParty UT Ultra D or a LANParty UT SLI-D/SLI-DR.

Does your board do SLI without mods? If so, then it's the SLI-D. If it has eight SATA ports, it's the SLI-DR.

If it only has four SATA ports and no SLI capability (despite having two PCI-E graphics slots), it's an Ultra D.

Hope this helps!









Im a ******.. its an ultra -d
it says so on the copy of the driver disc... god its not my cpu fan that is bad but my brain..
this mobo was a buy from a local tech shop used so all i got was it and a copy cd

edit but ha it was 20 buckaroos







to replace my first mobo i fried due to overclocking wannabe ******edness


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Ultra-Ds are still very capable motherboards.







I have one (been trying to sell it, actually), and it used to be my dedicated OCing/testing motherboard.

For sure, it was a lot easier OCing with it than my current dedicated 'clocker, the CFX3200-DR. It was a ton of hard work, but I finally got that one running stable...

... at stock clocks!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
think3r. are you thinking what i'm thinking. he said cpu fan as you quoted him on it, not chipset fan

N2Gaming, ahh yes your right thank you for clarifying


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Ultra-Ds are still very capable motherboards.







I have one (been trying to sell it, actually), and it used to be my dedicated OCing/testing motherboard.

For sure, it was a lot easier OCing with it than my current dedicated 'clocker, the CFX3200-DR. It was a ton of hard work, but I finally got that one running stable...

... at stock clocks!









very nice









so any news on the ram yet?


----------



## N2Gaming

just wanted to make sure were all on the same page and no one get's confusious!


----------



## Bogeyone001

im past confused.. i feel like i need to go to bed but thats not stopping me from staying awake all hours of the night


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


looks similar to my board. from the looks of it you have a sli board for sure.


txtmstrjoe. thanks for the info. I did not know dfi would put 2 pci-e x16 slots on a board and not have sli enabled. other than value/cost pound for pound it makes no sense, . I'm am learning a lot about these nf4 dfi boards.


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


txtmstrjoe. thanks for the info. I did not know dfi would put 2 pci-e x16 slots on a board and not have sli enabled. other than value/cost pound for pound it makes no sense, . I'm am learning a lot about these nf4 dfi boards.










yea what the heck is up with that..? 2 slots but no sli







dfi *bloody mobos everywhere*


----------



## N2Gaming

hey Bogey now you can edit your pc to show NF4 LP ultra-D or what ever it turned out to be.


----------



## Bogeyone001

This is true

Operation: Mobo type edit 
go henceforth now!! and seize the mouse along with typing instrument to make necessary corrections ..


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I did not know dfi would put 2 pci-e x16 slots on a board and not have sli enabled.


N2Gaming, you may want to run this by Joe but I am pretty sure there was a "hack" for that motherboard to enable SLI. I believe the PCB is the same as the Ultra-D.

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

It was actually a very smart move by DFI. Think about it: One PCB design, one PCB layout, same circuit traces... for the various variations you just changed the chipsets (nForce 4 Ultra, nForce 4 SLI) and, for some boards, added an extra SATA controller and four more SATA ports (hence the "R" in the model name - "R" for "RAID"). It's a very elegant, simple, economical production design ethic employed by DFI.









Bogey, about your RAM, I'm still sorting through some sources of info. I plead for a little bit more patience.







I tend to be slow when it comes to researching; I don't want to give out bad info, you know?









Back to the LANParty boards: thlnk3r is right, of course. The older versions of the Ultra D could be modded so that SLI could be enabled on them. However, nVidia compelled DFI to alter the circuit tracings on the Ultra-Ds so that SLI could no longer be enabled. nVidia didn't want anyone to have "hacked" SLI...







So, if your Ultra D is a newer revision, it cannot be modded to support SLI.


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


It was actually a very smart move by DFI. Think about it: One PCB design, one PCB layout, same circuit traces... for the various variations you just changed the chipsets (nForce 4 Ultra, nForce 4 SLI) and, for some boards, added an extra SATA controller and four more SATA ports (hence the "R" in the model name - "R" for "RAID"). It's a very elegant, simple, economical production design ethic employed by DFI.









Bogey, about your RAM, I'm still sorting through some sources of info. I plead for a little bit more patience.







I tend to be slow when it comes to researching; I don't want to give out bad info, you know?









Back to the LANParty boards: thlnk3r is right, of course. The older versions of the Ultra D could be modded so that SLI could be enabled on them. However, nVidia compelled DFI to alter the circuit tracings on the Ultra-Ds so that SLI could no longer be enabled. nVidia didn't want anyone to have "hacked" SLI...







So, if your Ultra D is a newer revision, it cannot be modded to support SLI.


hmm not going sli for a while anyways so not too concerned

as far as your pleading it is not necessary good sir
i will be as patient as needed. i completely understand


----------



## N2Gaming

hey txtmstrjoe: do you know what causes this error when I go to use ite smart guardian?

run-time error '48': file not found: itevio.dll within a little window named Project1.

I'm wondering if it's from a bios setting that causes the os not to load sertain files/drivers etc. I cant use ite sg because of this.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


hey txtmstrjoe: do you know what causes this error when I go to use ite smart guardian?

run-time error '48': file not found: itevio.dll within a little window named Project1.

I'm wondering if it's from a bios setting that causes the os not to load sertain files/drivers etc. I cant use ite sg because of this.


Sounds to me like a corrupt installation of ITE Guardian. I would try uninstalling it, then reinstalling anew.


----------



## N2Gaming

yeah i tried once I'll try again. funny thing is if I look in the x86 programs folders in the ite folder it's right there. hm this one's got me. happens on two diff drives with diff loaded os's


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


yeah i tried once I'll try again. funny thing is if I look in the x86 programs folders in the ite folder it's right there. hm this one's got me. happens on two diff drives with diff loaded os's


N2Gaming, I did some googling on this specific error message and got quite a few results back. Check it out here.

Hopefully that helps


----------



## N2Gaming

thanks think3r my brain is busted for the night. z z Z


----------



## txtmstrjoe

N2Gaming, it looks like the problem with the itevio.dll is x64-specific. From what I've been reading, SmartGuardian isn't really compatible for a 64-bit OS.

This source is representative of many that I've read through these last few minutes.

If you need a CPU temperature monitor, I advise you to try CoreTemp. It's completely free and is quite accurate, according to my own tests with it (it reads exactly the same as Everest Ultimate, which is what I use). It's always good when you have two programs which read exactly the same.









Good luck.


----------



## GuardianOdin

hey guys, I installed a 8600GTS for folding with my 8800GT. Obviuosly they are not Sli, but now CPUZ shows I'm running at 2x instead of 16 or even 8x. Is there any way of fixing this?


----------



## N2Gaming

txtmstrjoe: thanks I'll try that one out.

GuardianOdin: from what I understand if no sli is inabled the card in the first slot should run at 16x and the card in the second slot should run at 2x. this is from my owners manual. hope this helps. do you show two video cards installed and working properly in your harware management window from with in control panel?

Edit oh you you said cpu temp. I'm actually wanting all mobo temps. I had it working for a long time then I tried to install another ite sg updated version and blam now I cant get any to work.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Edit oh you you said cpu temp. I'm actually wanting all mobo temps. I had it working for a long time then I tried to install another ite sg updated version and blam now I cant get any to work.


N2Gaming, the only reliable overall temperature monitoring software that I know about is Everest Ultimate. It is a comprehensive program that is able to read a ton of details within your system. Unfortunately, all that capability is not free.


----------



## N2Gaming

thak you.


----------



## Blitz6804

Everest Ultimate is 30-day trial ware. If I recall correctly, the license is a paltry $20.

Regards an Ultra-D mod: it involves removing the northbridge cooler, taking a pencil or conductive paint, drawing a pair of lines, replacing the northbridge cooler, and hoping it still boots. As Joe has said, you can only use this on an early Ultra-D.


----------



## N2Gaming

yeah you hope it still boots. sounds like a job for a mobo repair man. I am looking at a beta version here http://www.softpedia.com/get/System/...-Edition.shtml but I cant seem to find the download link. anyone have a better download sight?


----------



## Blitz6804

Again, Everest is trial ware. No matter where you get it from, you install it, and it will be limited functionality. They ask that you purchase it within 30 days. When you do purchase it, you just type in the key, and you fully unlock it.

Call me cynical N2Gaming, but I doubt a motherboard repairman will do a mod to make your motherboard more powerful than it should be. There was once a software hack, but that doesn't work in the new versions of the driver.


----------



## N2Gaming

oh ok thank you. that explains why I cant see any temperatures in everest ultimate. well I don't think I'll need that hack since im on a sli dr board but Bogey might have wanted the information.


----------



## Blitz6804

Which is who the information was directed to.


----------



## N2Gaming

ok I thought you were under the impression that I had a ultra-d my bad.


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Which is who the information was directed to.

thanks for the info..
as i posted earlier it will be a while before i go sli anyways seeing as how my next purchase will be some sort of cooling upgrade..
preferably w/c.

until then i am going to lap my hs and cpu

off to buy the parts now


----------



## GuardianOdin

well my stupid rig is at it again with the touchy power.

I hit the power switch and I get lights and the fans spin for a split second and that's it. I don't if it's just dead in the water now or what


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hmmm... could be any of several things.

My first guess is PSU, though. You added a new GPU, yes? It could be that the total system's requirements now exceed what your PSU is capable of delivering with the new video card in place.









What happens when you take out the additional video card?

Good luck, buddy!


----------



## N2Gaming

well that's no good GuardianOdin. I ran the everest ultra stress test and cpu fails right out the gate. I wonder if I need to make voltage changes. does any one know of the stock max voltage for the opteron 180. right now I have it set at 1.35


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Hmmm... could be any of several things.

My first guess is PSU, though. You added a new GPU, yes? It could be that the total system's requirements now exceed what your PSU is capable of delivering with the new video card in place.









What happens when you take out the additional video card?

Good luck, buddy!










I took the second card earlier before this started happening. I flash my BIOS and then started to redo my OC and that when I started having issues. First it was a single beep every few seconds. So I thought "crap bad BIOS" so I proceed to correct the bad BIOS and some how or another the PSU started acting up "again"

It has done this before a few times. I have just has to mess with for awhile and it would fire back up.I'll note that nothing is blown or burnt and the lights on the motherboard will stay on, but the fans will turn off.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


I took the second card earlier before this started happening. I flash my BIOS and then started to redo my OC and that when I started having issues. First it was a single beep every few seconds. So I thought "crap bad BIOS" so I proceed to correct the bad BIOS and some how or another the PSU started acting up "again"

It has done this before a few times. I have just has to mess with for awhile and it would fire back up.I'll note that nothing is blown or burnt and the lights on the motherboard will stay on, but the fans will turn off.


G.O., you don't happen to have another PSU with which to test, would you?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


well that's no good GuardianOdin. I ran the everest ultra stress test and cpu fails right out the gate. I wonder if I need to make voltage changes. does any one know of the stock max voltage for the opteron 180. right now I have it set at 1.35


One of my basic rules of thumb with VCore: There is an optimum setting for VCore for every overclock. In other words, beyond this setting, it's just too much, and the extra you're giving the CPU is just wasted.

(This is one reason why I approach OCing methodically and systematically.







)

But to give you a direct answer to your question, the overclockers' maxim is that you give as much voltage as you dare, and this depends partly on what you use for cooling. The most I've put into a chip is 1.7V on air cooling during a mad fit of experimentation. Some would tell you that this is lethal for the CPU, and perhaps it is if you keep this voltage level 24/7; this chip, though, is still alive and kicking.









A typical survey of K8 owners, though, would probably agree that 1.55V is the most they'd dare put through a S939 CPU.

Hope this helps.


----------



## GuardianOdin

nope, all out of spare parts


----------



## Bogeyone001

Txtmstrjoe

Hey glad you posted this because i was going to ask something similar.. i am going through slowly and raisng my voltage by .25 increments.. 
so far i am testing at 280x10 right now and it hasnt failed immediately at 1.425 volts..which is what it was doing before.. so it just needed more power
and i set my ram to 2.7v.. as far as the rest of the ram settings what do i do with them .. or are you still figuring that out?

EDIT: ok i retract my voltage.. had to raise it some more now 1.475

this question goes out to anyone who can answer.. my ldt 1.2v voltage and chipset voltage 1.5v
do they need to be raised at all or can they stay where they are at?
thanks


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bogeyone001*


Txtmstrjoe

Hey glad you posted this because i was going to ask something similar.. i am going through slowly and raisng my voltage by .25 increments.. 
so far i am testing at 280x10 right now and it hasnt failed immediately at 1.425 volts..which is what it was doing before.. so it just needed more power
and i set my ram to 2.7v.. as far as the rest of the ram settings what do i do with them .. or are you still figuring that out?


I hope you mean .025









I know thlnk3r said .25 earlier, but I think it was a mistake.


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


I hope you mean .025









I know thlnk3r said .25 earlier, but I think it was a mistake.


yea typo on my part cuz the voltage is 1.475 now so yea i meant .025 increments.. lol thanks for the check on that HothBase


----------



## Bogeyone001

hmm high temps..

core 0 58-61
core 1 68- 70


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah Bogeyone001, that is a bit high. Remember, the maximum "safe" temperature for your processor is 71Âº C; you may wish to consider a better CPU cooler if you want to overclock further. (I do not know what you presently have however.)


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Yeah Bogeyone001, that is a bit high. Remember, the maximum "safe" temperature for your processor is 71Âº C; you may wish to consider a better CPU cooler if you want to overclock further. (I do not know what you presently have however.)



I have crapola... but hopefully by xmas i will have a sweet w/c setup.

it dropped though after a minute or 2 and i turned my fans all to high..

i am now stable at 2.8Ghz but about 63 degree temps full load


----------



## Blitz6804

63Âº C full load is fine. Well, it depends what you define "full load" as. What program were you running to do this?


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


63Âº C full load is fine. Well, it depends what you define "full load" as. What program were you running to do this?


orthos priority 9 for 30 mins


----------



## HothBase

You have the AC Freezer 64 Pro?
I'n my eyes, that is good enough cooler. If I were you, I'd save the money for the time when you are getting a new rig.
That's just my two cents.









Edit: What thermal compound/paste are you using?


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
You have the AC Freezer 64 Pro?
I'n my eyes, that is good enough cooler. If I were you, I'd save the money for the time when you are getting a new rig.
That's just my two cents.









Edit: What thermal compound/paste are you using?

some dynex best buy crap
and yea i have the ac 64 pro but the fan doesnt work on it..
and even when it did it still didnt do much for my temps








idk why though is it just me or the cooler


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bogeyone001* 
some dynex best buy crap
and yea i have the ac 64 pro but the fan doesnt work on it..
and even when it did it still didnt do much for my temps









Ah, the thermal interface can make alot of difference.
Do you know what temps you had at stock speed/voltage? Before the fan died.
I like the coolers from AC, I have the Alpine 64 and my temp never goes higher than 50Â°C at 2.5GHz with the fan at 70%.
The Freezer is supposed to be even better.








Ah, well... too bad it's not working.


----------



## Bogeyone001

pretty much same speeds... 33-37 idle and 60-70 at load..
i am going to play with the fan and wires to see if maybe i can fix it this weekend

ive been reading up on thermal pastes and i think im going to get the shin etsu stuff.. it seems to be a very good compound


----------



## HothBase

Running Orthos broke my temp sensor.








Attachment 84945
Nah... not really. It has happened before.


----------



## pez

Hey guys, I'm getting paid today, and thinking of going w/ a hd3870 gddr3 or a 9600gt. I think I'm gonna end up going w/ a 1440x900 or 1680x1050 monitor, so I'm sure these cards will stand their ground decently. From the reviews, it seems these cards are pretty neck and neck, but I will also have to option to sli down the line w/ the 9600's, so I'm leaning towards them. Maybe a some that have 9600's could give me some insite.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


I hope you mean .025









I know thlnk3r said .25 earlier, but I think it was a mistake.


Hoth, yes I apologize that was a mistake. I meant .025. It's been a long week for the thlnk3r









Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


Running Orthos broke my temp sensor.








Attachment 84945
Nah... not really. It has happened before.










Those are some interesting temperature results. Is your BIOS displaying the same numbers? It looks like the application(s) are having troubles reading the reports/readings from the chipset.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Hey guys, I'm getting paid today, and thinking of going w/ a hd3870 gddr3 or a 9600gt. I think I'm gonna end up going w/ a 1440x900 or 1680x1050 monitor, so I'm sure these cards will stand their ground decently. From the reviews, it seems these cards are pretty neck and neck, but I will also have to option to sli down the line w/ the 9600's, so I'm leaning towards them. Maybe a some that have 9600's could give me some insite.


Pez, either one of those cards is fine. My Acer AL1916wabd ran at that native resolution (1440x900) and my 3850 played games great. I don't think you'll have any problems. What brand 3870 are you going with? Some of the 38xx series cards had some nice factory cooling.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Pez: Since you have an SLI board, it may make more sense to go 9600 GT despite my prejudices against nVidia.

Bogeyone001: Small FFT or Blend? Small FFT priority 10 is the highest Orthos can give you; Folding at Home SMP or S&M will get you another 2-10Âº C higher still.


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Pez: Since you have an SLI board, it may make more sense to go 9600 GT despite my prejudices against nVidia.

Bogeyone001: Small FFT or Blend? Small FFT priority 10 is the highest Orthos can give you; Folding at Home SMP or S&M will get you another 2-10Âº C higher still.

I dont fold at least not now.. but ive been looking into it
and small FFT is what i run the cpu test at priority 9


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Pez: Since you have an SLI board, it may make more sense to go 9600 GT despite my prejudices against nVidia.

Blitz, just because he has an SLI motherboard doesn't mean he has to purchase a nvidia video card. I just don't see how that justifies the item purchase...


----------



## HothBase

Got my new RAM sticks today.








Here is my new CPU-Z if anyone cares about updating the rooster.
It's currently proposing that I am still at stock speed.








http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=429787


----------



## JamY

Quote:


Originally Posted by *--ares--* 









So I figured you guys could help me on this one. Does anyone know where I could pick up a different proc for my 939 rig. I really don't want to spend the kind of money to make a whole new rig, but If I could get a new proc that would be perfect.

I was thinking about buying a athlon x2, but gosh, they are so expensive compared to their AM2 counterparts. Is there a reason for this.

So to sum it up short, where/what can I find a replacement for my 3000+ that is better (without breaking the bank).

Ares. U really dont hav 2 giv that much voltage 2 ur cpu as i run the same proccy with 1.425v in order 2 get a higher CPU CLK than ur's. And itz Highly stable for me.

Plz hav a luk 2 ma oc'ed proccy details. it might help u.


s939 processor's are hgihly xpensive today bcoz of the great demand and due to the unavailability of the product in the market as the AMD manufactures has discontinued itz production.

But tere may b possibilities that u can get it. But where do u Liv in???


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Hoth, yes I apologize that was a mistake. I meant .025. It's been a long week for the thlnk3r









Those are some interesting temperature results. Is your BIOS displaying the same numbers? It looks like the application(s) are having troubles reading the reports/readings from the chipset.

Pez, either one of those cards is fine. My Acer AL1916wabd ran at that native resolution (1440x900) and my 3850 played games great. I don't think you'll have any problems. What brand 3870 are you going with? Some of the 38xx series cards had some nice factory cooling.

Good luck









I was looking at the sapphire 3870 w/ ddr3 ram for $100 on newegg.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz, just because he has an SLI motherboard doesn't mean he has to purchase a nvidia video card. I just don't see how that justifies the item purchase...

I understand what he's saying. Both cards are good, but I would have an option of getting better performance in the long run w/ the 9600gt over the 3870. I've seen some of those 9600gt sli reviews, and they're very impressive. IDK, I'm still deciding if I want to go all the way to a 4850, or just kinda take it easy with a cheaper, but still good card.

EDIT: Hmmm I think I can hold off for another week, I'll see







. The 9800gt's look very nice anyways







. Or maybe I might wait 'til the 4830.


----------



## GuardianOdin

PSU update.

My rig is up and running again. I did have to switch out the PSU. I am currently running a 12rail with 24amps....blah! This means no major OC'ing. This poor little PowerUps PSU can't handle it.

I'll buy a new one as soon as I can. I believe I might buy a PC Power&Cooling.


----------



## Bogeyone001

thats good you got it working
bummer you have a small psu


----------



## N2Gaming

is overclocking extra hard on a power supply and why?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
is overclocking extra hard on a power supply and why?

yep, When you overclock you are pulling more Amps and Watts on all things. CPU/NB Chipset/Video card/RAM plus powering USB items and what not.


----------



## Bogeyone001

hope you guys have a good friday night im out to pre game for the Florida Gators
o btw how can i access my raid drives if the boot file is missing.. ?
can it be done since they are striped.
it still shows when i boot that raid is healthy and at 931. GB but i just cant boot to them

if not i have a backup on my external which i think i should be able to just redo them with but it is a few weeks old and thats a lot of work for me ive put on there


----------



## N2Gaming

oh that makes sense. Pluse the added heat with in the system exiting from the psu probably don't help any. thanks

Hey does any one know of a good pci digital tv tuner capture card for turning amd/nvidia based pc into a hd/dvr while being able to watch/record over air/cable hd/broadcasting. I have been thingking about this for a while now and my comcast dvr gets full all the time. so I know with a pc dvr my hdd would be the limiting factor for storage. thanks.


----------



## boonie2




----------



## Murderous Moppet

Got my 4200+!
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=430092
Refuses to post at 246 FSB, but 100% stable at 245, and will not exceed 270x10, nor 300x9, even though my FSB can go that high. The chip simply refuses to post at anything at or above 2700MHz, even though, like I said, it's 6 hours stable running Orthos. It is not being limited by ram, seeing as I did all of my OCing with my RAM at 2:1. I think it's alright for now, I kind of just want to leave it alone for the time being.


----------



## Blitz6804

Thlnk3r: my idea was, if Pez ever intended to go dual GPU, it would be wise to get what would match what he has. If he never intends to go dual GPU, then the manufacturer would play less into his selection. Unless he intends to use a dual GPU on a single slot. 4850 X2 when it comes out perhaps?

HothBase: I will update you tomorrow. I will be bound to make typos tonight.

JamY: "Your mileage may vary." Just because your CPU can do a certain speed at a certain voltage does not mean that someone else can do the same. There are many factors including, but not limited to, the motherboard, the RAM, the stepping on the CPU, the CPU itself, the power supply, and many more.

Pez: $100 for a single 3870 is not bad at all. For 1440x900, you will likely be fine with a single 3870. With 1050p or higher, you would be rather disappointed with the frame rates I think.

Murderous Moppet: How much VCore are you giving it when you try to exceed 2.7 GHz? What is your temperature at the same?


----------



## boonie2

WELCOME "MOPPET", THE POWERS THAT BE WILL ADD YOU TO OUR ROSTER AS SOON AS THEY"RE ABLE


----------



## Blitz6804

Moppet is actually already a member. The 3800+ Moppet was toting was replaced with a 4200+.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Thlnk3r: my idea was, if Pez ever intended to go dual GPU, it would be wise to get what would match what he has. If he never intends to go dual GPU, then the manufacturer would play less into his selection. Unless he intends to use a dual GPU on a single slot. 4850 X2 when it comes out perhaps?

HothBase: I will update you tomorrow. I will be bound to make typos tonight.

JamY: "Your mileage may vary." Just because your CPU can do a certain speed at a certain voltage does not mean that someone else can do the same. There are many factors including, but not limited to, the motherboard, the RAM, the stepping on the CPU, the CPU itself, the power supply, and many more.

Pez: $100 for a single 3870 is not bad at all. For 1440x900, you will likely be fine with a single 3870. With 1050p or higher, you would be rather disappointed with the frame rates I think.

Murderous Moppet: How much VCore are you giving it when you try to exceed 2.7 GHz? What is your temperature at the same?


yeah, I think I'm trying to hold until the hd 4830 comes out. I have an idea that it will be around $130. By that time, I'll have to money too







. I do hope they have reviews come up before it's release though.


----------



## Murderous Moppet

I'm hitting it up with 1.5v, up to 1.55v are available, but make no difference whatsoever.
Ambient is 21Â°C, idle is at 33Â°C, and load is at 46Â°C. CNPS9500 running passive with 3x 1200RPM outtake fans within 2" of it.

By the way, I just remembered how to do the degrees symbol with the alt key.

EDIT: I thought I'd like to throw in the max FSB for my board is conveniently 303 MHz.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
yep, When you overclock you are pulling more Amps and Watts on all things. CPU/NB Chipset/Video card/RAM plus powering USB items and what not.

Guardian, good response. Another thing to add to that is if your PSU is not that great of quality in terms of internal components then there could be a higher rate of failure/instability with your overclock.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Murderous Moppet* 
I'm hitting it up with 1.5v, up to 1.55v are available, but make no difference whatsoever.
Ambient is 21Â°C, idle is at 33Â°C, and load is at 46Â°C. CNPS9500 running passive with 3x 1200RPM outtake fans within 2" of it.

By the way, I just remembered how to do the degrees symbol with the alt key.

EDIT: I thought I'd like to throw in the max FSB for my board is conveniently 303 MHz.

Murderous Moppet, in most cases this is the situation you'll run into with the Manchester core. On average most Manchester cores had troubles exceeding the 2.7 - 2.8Ghz range. Most of the time pumping more Vcore doesn't help. What is your command rate set at with your Mushkin set? I think it's safe to say the chipset isn't the weak spot









Good luck


----------



## TestECull

Hay guise...got me an OC going. Highest I've ever gotten. Testing stability now, if it passes 8 hours I'll start bringing the ram up to speed.



Ambients low...let's just say my room = Meat locker. I'd guess between 15C and 20C. Idle temp is 38C, load temp is 47C so far(But I'm only into Orthos 5 minutes, will update). I have my fans screaming right now to boot.

1.65Vcore, guys...I'm voltspamming my poor old chip...


----------



## jesusiscool

I had a s939 3500+ at 2.4ghz on air. good times, with my 1gb ddr ram and my radion x800xt(AGP) i hope that counts


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jesusiscool*


I had a s939 3500+ at 2.4ghz on air. good times, with my 1gb ddr ram and my radion x800xt(AGP) i hope that counts











That ain't too terribly far off from my sig rig.







Same GPU(But mine's PCI-e, an AllInWonder and windows claims it a GT), 3800+(Testing 2765 on air right now) and 2gigs...still use it regularly.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

TestECull and Murderous Moppet, congrats on your new overclocks!









TestECull, I'm curious about how well that GeminII handles the high overvolt. What are your maximum temperatures? And what fans are you using with the GeminII? I used to run one, but I ran them with subpar fans. Nevertheless, it was still quite effective; it kept an Opteron 170 (2.72GHz, 1.4V VCore) to around 52 degs C at full Orthos Small FFT load with ambients at around 27 degrees C. It's an underrated heatsink, in my opinion.









Murderous, are you going to try and squeeze a little bit more from that Manchester? I'm a bit curious to see if you've got an atypical Manchester.







As thlnk3r suggested, most Manchesters top out at around 2.7GHz or so, even with a ton of voltage applied.

Jesusiscool, I noticed you put some S939 specs in your post in our Club thread; if you'd like to join our Club, all you need is to post a CPU-Z link of your S939 system (or PM the same to any of our Club officers), and we'll sign you up.


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


TestECull and Murderous Moppet, congrats on your new overclocks!









TestECull, I'm curious about how well that GeminII handles the high overvolt. What are your maximum temperatures? And what fans are you using with the GeminII? I used to run one, but I ran them with subpar fans. Nevertheless, it was still quite effective; it kept an Opteron 170 (2.72GHz, 1.4V VCore) to around 52 degs C at full Orthos Small FFT load with ambients at around 27 degrees C. It's an underrated heatsink, in my opinion.











I love mine. 1.6Vcore, 15=20C ambient, I have a 35C idle and 50C load with a 92mm Tt casefan and 80mm Delta 80. I think I might be pushing 40cfm through it? With a pair of 90-120cfm 92mm fans I think this thing could keep a highly overvolted Pressler under control...


----------



## Bogeyone001

Just wanted to say Hi to the guys who do not know I'm new to the group and overclocking.


----------



## TestECull

Welcome aboard and don't forget to thrash the hell out of your 939 parts. They may be outdated, but damnit we can still max out most games on them!


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*









Welcome aboard and don't forget to thrash the hell out of your 939 parts. They may be outdated, but damnit we can still max out most games on them!


haha im trying.. 2.8GHz so far stable


----------



## TestECull

2.76 here. It's stable, I'm calling it. It survived being raped by Gmod, which is better at finding instabilities than Orthos and Prime95 combined! It's also alot more entertaining...lulz. I tested it with a large building crammed full of tiny spaces and npc's to shoot, somewhere around 100 combine/zombies/antlions and well over 250 containers...Cleared the entire thing in one life, right up untill the antlion guard fight where I killed myself with explosive barrels I put there to kill the guard with...


----------



## Bogeyone001

haha sounds a lot more interesting


----------



## TestECull

It sure beats staring at Orthos going "GO" for two hours...even if it was only at 10FPS for the first two sections of the building


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
It sure beats staring at Orthos going "GO" for two hours...even if it was only at 10FPS for the first two sections of the building









Yea i usually leave orthos and go do something else.

My fps isnt that great either in general
sweet my check cleared.. wonder what i should buy for my pc


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bogeyone001*


Yea i usually leave orthos and go do something else.

My fps isnt that great either in general
sweet my check cleared.. wonder what i should buy for my pc


Maybe some ... extra memory?


----------



## pez

I think I'm gonna shoot for a straight 3ghz soon. If I set a 166 divi on my ram, I'll still be running at 250, but I'll have to lower my htt to x3. One question: does htt link effect your ram's stability? I'm asking because when i tried a 166 divi on 2.7ghz, (450 effective dram) my computer was just being really wierd and unstable.


----------



## nategr8ns

TestECull, you've inspired me to reinstall Gmod, even if I play it without any third-party mods


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


Maybe some ... extra memory?










i was thinking that but wouldnt I have to just get rid of my current ram because if i were to buy more i would have to get 2x 512 and that would be worse than just getting 2x 1gb.
o and if i do get new ram would it be beneficial to get 4GB








if i do get new memory it will null all the hard work txtmstrjoe has done in helping me find my settings for my current ic


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


TestECull, you've inspired me to reinstall Gmod, even if I play it without any third-party mods











It's a better stability test than Orthos. Gmod will bluescreen unstable procs that Orthos runs perfectly for 8 hours on, and it will do it quick.


----------



## nategr8ns

yeah, just spawn 50 explosive barrels and throw a grenade


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


yeah, just *spam 574 containers and throw a nuke *











Fix'd.









I did that.

Gmod divided by zero.

Hit Crtl-Alt-Del, Vista took over instantly and I selected the taskmon to kill Gmod.

CPU never skipped a beat.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 


Ambients low...let's just say my room = Meat locker. I'd guess between 15C and 20C. Idle temp is 38C, load temp is 47C so far(But I'm only into Orthos 5 minutes, will update). I have my fans screaming right now to boot.

1.65Vcore, guys...I'm voltspamming my poor old chip...

TestECull, good job on the OC









I don't think you'll have to worry about full load temps if you room is as cold as a meat locker









Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Question:

When Buffalo weather kicks in full swing, and outside temperatures are down around -10Âº C, who here thinks I should take the PC outside and try to boot it?


----------



## Murderous Moppet

I hit 2805MHz with damn near zero stability. Believe it or not, I'm writing this at 2805 right now.
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=430644
Going to see if I can last more than 5 seconds in Orthos right away here.

By the way, I'm still running my 3800+ in a different machine now.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bogeyone001* 
i was thinking that but wouldnt I have to just get rid of my current ram because if i were to buy more i would have to get 2x 512 and that would be worse than just getting 2x 1gb.
o and if i do get new ram would it be beneficial to get 4GB








if i do get new memory it will null all the hard work txtmstrjoe has done in helping me find my settings for my current ic

I see no need at all for 4GB unless you are planning on running Vista.
Having 2GB has never limited me in any way I know of in XP.


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
I see no need at all for 4GB unless you are planning on running Vista.
Having 2GB has never limited me in any way I know of in XP.









hmm i am fine with 1gb for now so will just put money towards new rig


----------



## TestECull

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
TestECull, good job on the OC









I don't think you'll have to worry about full load temps if you room is as cold as a meat locker









Good luck


Max load Orthos got was 50C, and Gmod will get about 45C when I have so many containers out the Source engine crashes... I have a 12X10 bedroom, and the PC is the only thing in there making heat, and I has a 5,000BTU window AC on high 24/7.







Yeah...

This chip is rock solid. Makes the Rock of Gibraltar look like a piece of paper in a bonfire. My sole concern is what 1.6Vcore is doing to my aging chip, and how long running there 24/7 will take to kill it...but damnit not even Gmod can crash it!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
Max load Orthos got was 50C, and Gmod will get about 45C when I have so many containers out the Source engine crashes... I have a 12X10 bedroom, and the PC is the only thing in there making heat, and I has a 5,000BTU window AC on high 24/7.







Yeah...

This chip is rock solid. Makes the Rock of Gibraltar look like a piece of paper in a bonfire. My sole concern is what 1.6Vcore is doing to my aging chip, and how long running there 24/7 will take to kill it...but damnit not even Gmod can crash it!

Methinks that by the time your CPU kicks the bucket, it'll be time to leave that system behind anyway.









TestECull, ever consider running a dual-core in your rig? It really does make a huge difference, especially at the keyboard level.


----------



## TestECull

I would kill for a dual. Opty 165 or lowly A64 3800+ X2, I could care less. Dual core > single core









I'm just trying to extract every last little bit out of what I do have...


----------



## Murderous Moppet

I'd sell my X2 3800+, but it's a terrible overclocker, so odds are you wouldn't even want it.
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=424486
2.4 at 1.55v is as high as I got it "stable".
By stable I mean 5 hours on Orthos, however it was absolutely not gaming stable.
About 3.5 hours of straight TF2 proved that 5 hours of Orthos doesn't mean a thing.
It runs fine at 2.35GHz at 1.45v, anything higher that that extra voltage doesn't do anything.


----------



## TestECull

How much we talkin' here? I don't think the 'noname' mobo helped all that much...


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Murderous Moppet*


I'd sell my X2 3800+, but it's a terrible overclocker, so odds are you wouldn't even want it.
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=424486
2.4 at 1.55v is as high as I got it "stable". 
By stable I mean 5 hours on Orthos, however it was absolutely not gaming stable. 
About 3.5 hours of straight TF2 proved that 5 hours of Orthos doesn't mean a thing. 
It runs fine at 2.35GHz at 1.45v, anything higher that that extra voltage doesn't do anything.


I think it might be your mobo. We have the same chip, and I'm running mine at 2.5ghz on a vcore of 1.35 still.


----------



## Blitz6804

Or the stepping. Or the RAM. Or dumb luck. Your mileage may, can, and will always vary. I have heard stories of people not being able to go above 2.4 GHz with a chip, selling it to someone else, and the buyer will be able to get 3.1 GHz. (I have also seen it go the other way around.)


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*









Welcome aboard and don't forget to thrash the hell out of your 939 parts. They may be outdated, but damnit we can still max out most games on them!


ABSOLUTELY TRUE .............. DAMN THE INTELLARS , FULL SPEED AHEAD


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


Max load Orthos got was 50C, and Gmod will get about 45C when I have so many containers out the Source engine crashes... I have a 12X10 bedroom, and the PC is the only thing in there making heat, and I has a 5,000BTU window AC on high 24/7.







Yeah...

This chip is rock solid. Makes the Rock of Gibraltar look like a piece of paper in a bonfire. My sole concern is what 1.6Vcore is doing to my aging chip, and how long running there 24/7 will take to kill it...but damnit not even Gmod can crash it!


TestECull, I doubt the processor will die any time soon. A full load temp of 50C isn't bad especially at 1.6volts. One would assume cooler temps would slow down the process of electromigration. Like Joe said by the time it dies you'll be ready to build a new machine.

Good luck


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Or the stepping. Or the RAM. Or dumb luck. Your mileage may, can, and will always vary. I have heard stories of people not being able to go above 2.4 GHz with a chip, selling it to someone else, and the buyer will be able to get 3.1 GHz. (I have also seen it go the other way around.)

I looked at his cpu validator link, and then opened up cpuz...we have the same exact processor...unless I'm missing something. For some reason, I can't get higher than 2.5ghz on this ram, even after setting the divi to 166 and htt to x3. I got 275 to start up, but then it froze. Idk what's going on, but 2.5 to me is still very fast. BTW, I even upped the vcore to 1.45.


----------



## Blitz6804

The only way to tell if you have the "same" processor would be to read the stepping code off the processor. Again however, even if Moppet sent his processor to you, there is nothing to say that you get his 2.35 GHz, or if instead you can only run it stock. On the flip side, you may be able to get it up to 2.5 GHz. There are just so many variables.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
I looked at his cpu validator link, and then opened up cpuz...we have the same exact processor...unless I'm missing something. For some reason, I can't get higher than 2.5ghz on this ram, even after setting the divi to 166 and htt to x3. I got 275 to start up, but then it froze. Idk what's going on, but 2.5 to me is still very fast. BTW, I even upped the vcore to 1.45.

Pez, crazy question here but have you tried running your overclock with a Windows XP installation instead of Vista 64? Do you have another drive that you could test this with?

Good luck


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
The only way to tell if you have the "same" processor would be to read the stepping code off the processor. Again however, even if Moppet sent his processor to you, there is nothing to say that you get his 2.35 GHz, or if instead you can only run it stock. On the flip side, you may be able to get it up to 2.5 GHz. There are just so many variables.

Yeah







. I'd like to keep my processor though, he's been good to me







.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Pez, crazy question here but have you tried running your overclock with a Windows XP installation instead of Vista 64? Do you have another drive that you could test this with?

Good luck









I had the 2.5 running stable on vista 32, but not w/ the ram that I have now. I do have an IDE HDD that I could put XP on if I didn't take it off already. I think this will have to be next weekend's project though







.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Pez, crazy question here but have you tried running your overclock with a Windows XP installation instead of Vista 64? Do you have another drive that you could test this with?

Good luck









I have seen no difference with a Vista versus Experience installation for stability. For benchmarking, yes, Vista loses. For stability, they are equivalent.


----------



## Bogeyone001

hey do any of you guys know how to access 2 raid 0 drives that i cant boot to


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
I do have an IDE HDD that I could put XP on if I didn't take it off already. I think this will have to be next weekend's project though







.

Pez, I look forward to seeing the results from this project.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I have seen no difference with a Vista versus Experience installation for stability. For benchmarking, yes, Vista loses. For stability, they are equivalent.

Blitz, are you talking about Windows *XP* or the Vista experience scores? Stability wise both operating systems are not the same. I have seen many users have extreme difficulty keeping an overclock with Vista versus XP.

Good luck

EDIT:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bogeyone001* 
hey do any of you guys know how to access 2 raid 0 drives that i cant boot to

Bogeyone001, was the array damaged in some way? Do you have the drives on the same raid controller?


----------



## Blitz6804

You may be able to access it from a LiveCD operating system such as Ubuntu Linux.

And yes Thlnk3r, I am talking about Windows Experience (A.K.A. "Windows XP"). In my experience on three different occasions, if the computer is stable in Experience, it is also stable in Vista. Perhaps you may get a higher suicide in Experience, but I care not for suicides.


----------



## Bogeyone001

EDIT:

Bogeyone001, was the array damaged in some way? Do you have the drives on the same raid controller?[/quote]

idk think they are ok 
i just couldnt boot from them when i messed up my overclock, when blitz was trying to help with it but we couldnt fix it so now i need to access them to retrieve files.
i have unplugged them when i switched to my new case but they are plugged in the same way again

to blitz
i will try live cd


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bogeyone001*


idk think they are ok 
i just couldnt boot from them when i messed up my overclock, when blitz was trying to help with it but we couldnt fix it so now i need to access them to retrieve files.
i have unplugged them when i switched to my new case but they are plugged in the same way again

to blitz
i will try live cd


Bogeyone001, if the LiveCD does not have the drivers for your RAID controller then it may not be able to see the array. Does the RAID setup see the two drives as being healthy? If that is the case then the data should be intact. Your OS was probably corrupted due to an unstable overclock. You could try installing a OS on another drive and setting that as the primary boot device. You might be able to recover the data off your RAID 0 array that way.

Let us know

Good luck


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Bogeyone001, if the LiveCD does not have the drivers for your RAID controller then it may not be able to see the array. Does the RAID setup see the two drives as being healthy? If that is the case then the data should be intact. Your OS was probably corrupted due to unstable overclock. You could try installing a OS on another drive and setting that as the primary boot device. You might be able to recover the data off your RAID 0 array that way.

Let us know

Good luck










yes the drives are healthy

i am on my ide drive now with windows xp
it doesnt show the drives though idk where to access them from cuz i cant find them


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bogeyone001*


yes the drives are healthy

i am on my ide drive now with windows xp
it doesnt show the drives though idk where to access them from cuz i cant find them


Bogeyone001, is the drive showing up in the device manager? I'm assuming you checked under "My Computer" (sorry for the obvious question)?

Good luck


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Bogeyone001, is the drive showing up in the device manager? I'm assuming you checked under "My Computer" (sorry for the obvious question)?

Good luck


ts ok but no when i go to my computer it does not show the drive
there is a random e: drive thats only showing size at 10mb


----------



## HothBase

Uhm... question...
What really happens when you "fry" an OS?
How do the files become corrupt (or whatever)?


----------



## Blitz6804

More often than not, the boot sector of the hard drive becomes corrupted. Thus, you can no longer boot into the operating system. With Vista, it is also possible to corrupt the registration sector. This means, despite you having a valid license, it will tell you you are running an unvalidated copy. Pioneerisloud had to deal with this latter form of corruption once already.

As an aside, I just upgraded my internet connection. Instead of the 10k down / 1k up I had (which ran around 9.5 k down / 0.98 k up) I am now on a 30k down / 3k up (which is right now running at 18k down / 1.7 k up). Tech support is coming Friday to see if they can get the signal stronger.


----------



## Bogeyone001

how do i use ubuntu?


----------



## Blitz6804

Once you download an ISO and burn it to a disc, you put the disc in your CD drive and boot to it. You will load up an operating system purely in the RAM. Open "File System" and see if you can access the drive.


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Once you download an ISO and burn it to a disc, you put the disc in your CD drive and boot to it. You will load up an operating system purely in the RAM. Open "File System" and see if you can access the drive.


 ok got ubuntu working

yea i can see my drive but its all in giberish i cant see specific files..
maybe i should try reloading raid drivers?


----------



## Blitz6804

Can you extrapolate by what you mean when you say "all in gibberish"? The file trees in Linux look a little different than Windows, but baring data corruption, you should still be able to navigate and access files.


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Can you extrapolate by what you mean when you say "all in gibberish"? The file trees in Linux look a little different than Windows, but baring data corruption, you should still be able to navigate and access files.


i just get wierd characters and symbols 
o well i just deleted it and going to reinstall windows on it

but now i have another problem. when i install the os shouldnt they be showing as one drive not 2 seperate partitions

my raid utility says one raid array 0 
931 gb but when i go to install the os they are 2 seperate drives


----------



## Blitz6804

You need to load the RAID driver during Windows installation. Vista comes with an nForce4 driver pre-installed. Experience does not. Load the driver onto a floppy disk or thumb drive, and press F6 (F5?) as the installer starts loading. You will see a message on the bottom of the screen telling you to "Press F6 if you need to load a third-party SCSI or RAID Controller," which is when you would press it.


----------



## thlnk3r

Bogeyone001, did you make sure to install the RAID drivers in your Windows XP installation?

At work I use a tool called ERD Commander. There is an application called "System Checker". This utility scans the \\windows folder looking for any file changes, file versions, inconsistencies that are typically followed by *data corruption* . The boot sector is not always the culprit so keep that in mind as well. Not sure if ubuntu has that utility or something alike but it's worth looking into. I believe it also checks the registry hive for any abnormalities.


----------



## Bogeyone001

ok im just trying to find the sata raid driver for me so i can put it on floopy


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bogeyone001* 
ok im just trying to find the sata raid driver for me so i can put it on floopy

Bogeyone, the SATA drivers for your RAID controller can be downloaded by going here: http://www.dfi.com.tw/Support/Downlo...FLAG=A&SITE=US.

Good luck


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Bogeyone, the SATA drivers for your RAID controller can be downloaded by going here: http://www.dfi.com.tw/Support/Downlo...FLAG=A&SITE=US.

Good luck

yea i found them but now i cant put them on floppy..

ahh this is so frustrating.....
i think the 2 floppys i have are used or something but they dont show anything or even that they are in the drive..


----------



## Blitz6804

Is it possible you have the data cable between the floppy and motherboard in incorrectly? If this is the case, the floppy will go into the drive and make noise, but the drive will never show as populated.


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Is it possible you have the data cable between the floppy and motherboard in incorrectly? If this is the case, the floppy will go into the drive and make noise, but the drive will never show as populated.

wow really ok will recheck

EDIT: that was exactly it it shows up now.. that was ridiculous i didnt know it looks the same both ways unlike ide cable where it only goes in one way


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah; floppy drives stunk. IDE cables were bad, but not as bad as floppy drives. I guess this is why both have been phased out... In any event, I always was connecting the motherboard end to the floppy drive and vice-versa, or occasionally, flipping one connector or the other upside-down.


----------



## Bogeyone001

haha yea it sucks
grr why cant xp have raid drivers already..
i think ill look up remaking xp cd with drivers. i know it can be done
ok so im extracting all files to floppy and will go back hit f6 and see if that works.
wish i still had the floppy with drivers on it..the tech guy that helped me let me keep the floppy drive but no floppy


----------



## Blitz6804

Be forewarned, while it may physically be possible, I am under the impression that rebuilding XP (what I usually refer to as "Experience") discs custom-tailored to your needs violate the Microsoft EULA. I would double-check that before you do so.

And for the record, yes, XP does in fact come with SATA and RAID drivers pre-installed. Unfortunately for you, not nForce4. It didn't have nForce3 either. My nForce3 board could not see SATA drives at all without the driver, not even non-RAIDed ones. (My Athlon XP-based board installed without any third-party drivers on the other hand.)


----------



## Murderous Moppet

My X2 3800+ only clocked up to 2.2GHz in my A8R-MVP, I managed a boot 2.5GHz on this Sapphire board with it, but 100% unstable. It ran at 2.45GHz 5 hours orthos stable, but crashed gaming, even after I dropped the divider on my ram. Maybe someone else would have better luck with it.

This 4200+ I've got in here right now is on par with all of the others I've seen. This board is actually pretty good for OCing, except for the fact there is no RAM voltage adjustment.


----------



## Blitz6804

I just looked up the EULA. Here is the relevant clause:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Microsoft Windows Experience ['XP'] EULA*
5. LIMITATION ON REVERSE ENGINEERING, DECOMPILATION, AND DISASSEMBLY. You may not
reverse engineer, decompile, or disassemble the Product, except and only to the extent that it is expressly
permitted by applicable law notwithstanding this limitation.

The question is: does this mean you may not fiddle with the installed operating system but you may mess with the installation media, or is neither permitted?


----------



## Bogeyone001

Hmm thanks fort that info blitz i will certainly look further into the matter.

as for now i am up and running 110% with my raid and anything else that my rig is concerned

back to tweaking my ram


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


The gray box between the retention frame and the northbridge fan; does that Expert on it? I cannot see from the picture, but is there the sound module attached? Here is what one looks like for the record:









(Courtesy of DFI Taiwan)

EDIT: No, definitely not a Venus.


The mobo does not have the expert logo in that gray bar between the cpu and chipset fan but it does say expert on the p/n sticker??? I'm confused. by the way it has some damaged capacitors that'l need replacing before I fire it up for the first time. here is a picture of the label. http://www.overclock.net/album.php?a...pictureid=2302 & no expert logo picture w/damaged caps http://www.overclock.net/album.php?a...pictureid=2303 can these boards be repaired or is even worth it? Also no sound module. are those sound modules all the same? can I use one from a lp sli dr or is the expert sound module different?





















Man I was so happy when the packaged arived and so dissapointed when I opened it and realized it had damaged caps. oh well that's the gamble on ebay.


----------



## Blitz6804

My guess is the prior removed the sticker, but that is definitely an Expert and not a Venus.

As to repairing capacitors: if you have the skills to do so, there is really no harm in doing so. If you cannot replace the capacitors, you likely have a $20 paperweight. If you damage the board further, you have a $20 paperweight. If you can replace the caps successfully, you have arguably one of the best boards of the 939-era for pittance.


----------



## N2Gaming

I have the ability, I just don't have a sodder sucker for when I remove bad caps. Is it safe to use any japanese cap with same values or should I use exact oem caps. I,m curiouse if the board can be repaired after cap replacement or is it like you said just a paper weight?


----------



## Blitz6804

I would suppose that any capacitor of equal capacitance would be sufficient. Do not quote me on that; my knowledge of capacitance is limited to a few tangential references in my Chemistry and Physics courses.


----------



## N2Gaming

sounds like you have more education than me! I googled capacitors and I can find many different capacitors from variouse vendors with same voltage and capacitance & heat rating. I just don't want to ruin a possible good board by using rong parts. thanks for the info.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I would also assume that if the values are the same (voltage and capacitance), then it should work no matter what. Just my guesstimate though based off my year of electrical classes....that I don't EXACTLY remember too well.


----------



## N2Gaming

well I got two thinking I would be able to use one for parts. by the looks of it I might need the second for parts but both have damaged caps so it's another guess as to what board I should try first. I think I will try the baord that has no scrathces on the back side first.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
w/damaged caps http://www.overclock.net/album.php?a...pictureid=2303 can these boards be repaired or is even worth it?

N2Gaming, if only the capacitors are damaged then yes it's WORTH fixing. Caps are cheap. Make sure you get the same caps that are your board. Brand is as just important. Make sure the uF, voltage and temperature is the same. Don't forget about footprint as well (size). I replaced a few caps on a micro atx p4 board with just a few tools. I picked up the caps from my buddies work but places like Radio Shack have them as well. Here is a interesting desoldering guide that might be of some use: http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/164/4. The process is actually quite simple. It just takes patience and practice.

Good luck


----------



## TestECull

If both of the old pins are still there, you can also just solder the pins of the new cap directly to the pins of the old one


----------



## N2Gaming

Thank you, think3r.

TestECull so if I understand you correctly I can gently pull the capacitor apart and then solder the new one to the leads left on the componant side, or are you saying to solder the new cap to the non componat side and leave the old cap there on the componant side???


----------



## TestECull

Yes, if you can gently pull the cap off of it's pins, you can solder the new one to those pins.

First, mark the polarity of the cap somehow, on the mobo(Maybe sharpie the end of an adjacent cap where the positive was, or a bit of tape next to the positive pin), then CAREFULLY pull the cap directly away from the mobo with your pliers. Cover the tips in rubber or plastic so you dun scratch up the board's traces, and you should be able to pull the pins out of the bad cap. There's nothing but friction holding them in there. Once the old one is off, clean the pins VERY well with alcohol, allow to dry, then solder the new cap on, making sure to observe the polarity of the old one and to not let the board get too hot. IF you are successful, your board should work fine, and the only odd looking detail is one cap will be sticking up a bit more than it's neighbors!

And like the other guys said, get a perfectly matching cap before you destroy the bad one removing it. IT won't survive removal well enough to use for ID.

Electrolytic capacitors only work one way, by the way. Polarity is important. The caps will be marked, and I'm sure the guy at Radio Shack will be able to tell you which pin is positive if you don't know how to read the markings.


----------



## Blitz6804

Then again, in all fairness, if you cannot read the markings, perhaps you should reconsider this project. Good luck to you N2!


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Then again, in all fairness, if you cannot read the markings, perhaps you should reconsider this project. Good luck to you N2!



Could be like me and simply forgot. It's been two years since I've soldered electrolytic caps, so I've forgotten quite a bit, and I really must read up on it...I know the positive pin is usually longer, and I think there's a white stripe with - symbols in it to indicate the ground, but I'm probably off somewhat.


----------



## Blitz6804

The last capacitor I personally dealt with was a custom-built model for testing the change in the dielectric constant of Carbon Tetrabromide as it phase changed from liquid to plastic to solid. As it was custom built, and thus, not standardized, my knowledge thereof would be of no help to N2Gaming.

That, and it provided about 400 puffs (picofarads or pF) of capacitance. A bit less than a motherboard would want. Not to mention the sucker is as big as three optical drives.

Schematic (click to expand 10-fold):

Capacitor in a jar full of glass beads (click to expand 10-fold):


----------



## pun3D

pun3D - 4400x2


----------



## Blitz6804

All you need to join pun3D is a CPU-Z Validation of some flavor.


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks guys I will use the second board for parts and use the exact same oem parts.  I guess this is a learning curve I have to go through. I google'd the caps & read a lot of articles related to these caps on this board. FYI it seems that the vendor had some issues with bad caps in 2005 when this board was built but would not acnowledge the fact. these are the caps I will be replacing. 6.3v 1000uf kzg, 16v 1500uf kzg & 6.3v 1500uf kzg I will repost with results when I get around to the repair attemp.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Thanks guys I will use the second board for parts and use the exact same oem parts. I guess this is a learning curve I have to go through. I google'd the caps & read a lot of articles related to these caps on this board. FYI it seems that the vendor had some issues with bad caps in 2005 when this board was built but would not acnowledge the fact. these are the caps I will be replacing. 6.3v 1000uf kzg, 16v 1500uf kzg & 6.3v 1500uf kzg I will repost with results when I get around to the repair attemp.









N2Gaming, you are actually the first person I have heard of with bad caps on a DFI motherboard. It might be possible that whomever owned this board before you didn't have the machine on a surge/ups device. There might of been a surge and the board was probably damaged hence the bulging caps. Don't forget about getting the same temperature(cap) as well.
I'd recommend doing the job right the first time and pull everything out. Use the solder sucker and clean up the old solder. Are you able to get the board to power on at all?

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

as far as the caps. they were physically damaged on exterior surfaces. It looks like the boards may have been in a pile of boards on their way to a recycle center and intercepted for sale along the way.





















as far as powering on. I don't want to try anything with this baord untill I know for sure all the caps are good. This is becuase I don't want to ruin good ram, cpu & vga by testing board before it's ready for testing. Thanks for all the information. All I need now is a decent solder sucker.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
as far as the caps. they were physically damaged on exterior surfaces. It looks like the boards may have been in a pile of boards on their way to a recycle center and intercepted for sale along the way.





















as far as powering on. I don't want to try anything with this baord untill I know for sure all the caps are good. This is becuase I don't want to ruin good ram, cpu & vga by testing board before it's ready for testing. Thanks for all the information. All I need now is a decent solder sucker.

N2Gaming, can you take a nice close up picture of these caps? Did you review the bottom of the board to make sure nothing scratched/dinged it underneath?

Good luck


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, can you take a nice close up picture of these caps? Did you review the bottom of the board to make sure nothing scratched/dinged it underneath?

Good luck

agreed, I'd like to see some close up pic of the Mobo.


----------



## iandroo888

that was wierd. my dfi + fx60 gave me problems starting up this morning. gave me a boot sequence error n invalid system disc. which was weird cuz apparently it was checking the cd drive.. and there was no cd in there.. *shrugs* wonder what hap. was workin fine last nite


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
that was wierd. my dfi + fx60 gave me problems starting up this morning. gave me a boot sequence error n invalid system disc. which was weird cuz apparently it was checking the cd drive.. and there was no cd in there.. *shrugs* wonder what hap. was workin fine last nite

Iandroo, is it still happening? Check the voltage on the CMOS battery and make sure it's 3volts.

Let us know

Good luck


----------



## iandroo888

i changed the boot order from CD => HD to HD => CD. booted up. at first, thought it was a failing disc. got scared for a bit there.

will check battery.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
i changed the boot order from CD => HD to HD => CD. booted up. at first, thought it was a failing disc. got scared for a bit there.

will check battery.

Iandroo888, not sure what brand/model hard drive your running but I would also perform a surface scan on the drive just to be safe. It won't hurt anything to check.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

CD => HD is fine usually. You likely had a disc in the drive that has an autorun sector. The BIOS could not understand it as a live CD, so it gave up.

N2Gaming: would you be willing to boot the board straight up? That is, a power supply and the motherboard, nothing else. (Well, and a case speaker if you do not trust the buzzer.)


----------



## N2Gaming

not sure I trust that. im editing the pictures now. will upload them shortly.


----------



## N2Gaming

ok lets see if I can get this all. Please bare w/me the pictures were as good as I could get them. the front side http://www.overclock.net/album.php?a...pictureid=2309 the back side http://www.overclock.net/album.php?a...pictureid=2308 only sthing on the back side that I can see is a little burn where a cap is located between pcie x1 and pcie x4 http://www.overclock.net/album.php?a...pictureid=2310 and the ront side of burn cap http://www.overclock.net/album.php?a...pictureid=2311 and now the damaged and loose caps http://www.overclock.net/album.php?a...pictureid=2313 , http://www.overclock.net/album.php?a...pictureid=2312 , this las one is loose as well http://www.overclock.net/album.php?a...pictureid=2314 that's it for now let me know if you wan to see any thing else. from what I can see all the chips on the componant side did not sustain any dmg . the back side of the board has no scrathces and looks pretty good. I wish I could say that for the other baord.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


CD => HD is fine usually. You likely had a disc in the drive that has an autorun sector. The BIOS could not understand it as a live CD, so it gave up.

N2Gaming: would you be willing to boot the board straight up? That is, a power supply and the motherboard, nothing else. (Well, and a case speaker if you do not trust the buzzer.)


all my comps are cd=>hd. no disc in drive. no disc even when problem first appeared. usually even if it has an autorun sector, if u dont continue it, it just skips it and loads windows. it couldnt do that for some reason.


----------



## Blitz6804

Like I said, only some discs do it. Mine completely ignores that CoD4 or SimCity 4 are in the drive. However, have Age of Empires 2 in there, it will not boot.


----------



## N2Gaming

yeah Radio shack has a solder sucker for under $5 and less then 5 miles away. off to the store.


----------



## Pest

Just made my account after two years of browsing these boards and this is the thread my rig belongs in. Good luck with that capacitor N2Gaming, shame to lose a board as nice as that.


----------



## Blitz6804

Welcome aboard Pest. I am loving that Toledo; I will add you (and update the other three users) when I get home from class within the hour.


----------



## GuardianOdin

welcome Pest


----------



## Bogeyone001

welcome.. nice core ya got there same as mine


----------



## thlnk3r

Welcome Pest to the Club









N2Gaming, can you take another picture of the "burnt mark"? The caps that you showed us look fine. If they aren't bulging/leaking then they are technically ok. If you have actual "liquid" coming out of them that is a bad sign. When you say "loose" are you referring to the capacitor being able to move back and forth? I have a few loose caps on my DFI board as well so I don't think it's anything to be worried about. I suggest trying to start the board up with just the power supply connected (suggestion from Blitz) and see if you get any beep codes.

Good luck with the new cap installation









Btw guys, OCCT 2.0.1 is out: http://www.ocbase.com/perestroika_en/index.php?Download


----------



## N2Gaming

ok so your saying if the cap is dented inward but not punktured then it's ok. the loose cap is not wiggling a little it wiggles like it's about to fall off. I have a little wiggle on a some caps on my sli dr board. it's fine as well. to make every one happy I'll try power before repair attempts if you stongly suggest it and don't think dented/bent caps will cause any problems.


----------



## N2Gaming

update: chip set fan spins for like 3-5 seconds and then stops spinning. no beeps from speaker or on bord buzzer. I'm going to clear cmos and retry. I'm wondering if the baord experianced a bad bios flash and that's why it's not working. all the led's light up on the board. the 4 diagnostic led's light up and stay on. then there is like 3 other orange led's in variouse places that light up. going to dfi now for manual for instrucktions on correct clear cmos pins and normal mode placement. fingers crossed.


----------



## Blitz6804

I just reuploaded the off-site roster. HothBase and TestECull's clocks have been upgraded. Merderous Moppet's new Manchester has been added. Pest has been added. Please tell me if I missed you!


----------



## N2Gaming

same thing after clear cmos. I even canged the cmos chip with one from the other board and same thing. does a cpu have to be in it for the post beep code?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


same thing after clear cmos. I even canged the cmos chip with one from the other board and same thing. does a cpu have to be in it for the post beep code?


try another power supply.

My power supply just died and showed the exact same symptoms that you are getting now. I the PSU is not bad, it may not be enough to power the rig and would show the same symptoms as a bad PSU.


----------



## N2Gaming

brand new psu works in m2n32 sli delux system. I think the bios's are bad or the board is dead.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes; you will get a beep code without a CPU in the socket. In my experience, you also get one with a corrupt BIOS. If nothing is happening, it is likely a bad motherboard.


----------



## N2Gaming

ok so this means that dfi won't even be able to repair it?


----------



## Blitz6804

DFI might be able to since they know what they are doing. I know not the warranty policy however.


----------



## N2Gaming

ok so I went over to the dfi forum and from the research I did over there it's possibly one of two things. bad bios/cmos or bad chipset. So I'm waiting for a reply over there. Hopefully RGone will reply to the thread. I remember him from DFI Street. he helped me get my nf4 lp sli dr board running when dfi street was still around back in 2005.







maybe I can just ship the bios chip to dfi or better yet hand deliver it since I live close to the bay area where there dfi san jose loacation is.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
ok so I went over to the dfi forum and from the research I did over there it's possibly one of two things. bad bios/cmos or bad chipset. So I'm waiting for a reply over there. Hopefully RGone will reply to the thread. I remember him from DFI Street. he helped me get my nf4 lp sli dr board running when dfi street was still around back in 2005.







maybe I can just ship the bios chip to dfi or better yet hand deliver it since I live close to the bay area where there dfi san jose loacation is.

have a link?


----------



## N2Gaming

here is the link. http://csd.dficlub.org/forum/showthr...9348#post59348


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
ok so this means that dfi won't even be able to repair it?

N2Gaming, try giving DFI a call and see what they say. A lot of times DFI can just send you a new BIOS which is around $20-$30 including shipping. You can get to there RMA website by going here: http://www.dfi.com.tw/RMA/rma_request_step0_us.jsp.

If all four LEDS are on that is commonly known as the "4 LEDS of death" but you might be also getting that because there is no processor or memory installed. A proper boot up of the motherboard would not display all 4 LEDS (for a continuous amount of time).

Good luck


----------



## Bogeyone001

hey all hows it going
How much of a difference will good thermal paste make in my temps..and would AS5 be ok?








O and i got my fan to work on the cpu cooler







bad connection in the wires just had to be fixed yay now i can put off buying another one and use money for something else.


----------



## N2Gaming

update: me berry berry happy right now. for the time being.







after talking with dfi tech supt over the phone. It turns out the baord will not give any beep codes with out cpu. He told me to pull the cpu to see if it had overheated. so I played it cool and told him I would check it out. Got off the phone and cput my 3500+ in the socket pluged in cpu fan to board and installed one stick of Mushkin pc2100 ??? she posted and went to load os oops no hard drive so we all know what happens next. I'll keep you all posted.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


update: me berry berry happy right now. for the time being.







after talking with dfi tech supt over the phone. It turns out the baord will not give any beep codes with out cpu. He told me to pull the cpu to see if it had overheated. so I played it cool and told him I would check it out. Got off the phone and cput my 3500+ in the socket pluged in cpu fan to board and installed one stick of Mushkin pc2100 ??? she posted and went to load os oops no hard drive so we all know what happens next. I'll keep you all posted.










oops, I hadn't noticed to didn't have the CPU in the board. I could have told you it won't make the beeps without the CPU....crap wish I had seem that.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bogeyone001*


hey all hows it going
How much of a difference will good thermal paste make in my temps..and would AS5 be ok?


Bogeyone001, Arctic Silver 5 is very popular amongst many enthusiasts. It outperforms many other thermal compounds. The MX-2 compound from Arctic Cooling is also excellent. If your cooler is still on the stock thermal pad then I would recommend picking up some aftermarket compound. The difference can be anywhere from 3C to almost a 10C difference and sometimes even more (depends on the application\\cooler).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


cput my 3500+ in the socket pluged in cpu fan to board and installed one stick of Mushkin pc2100 ??? she posted and went to load os oops no hard drive so we all know what happens next. I'll keep you all posted.










N2Gaming, just to be safe I would still replace the cap that is dinged up. It's probably fine but if it was punctured in any before it was sold then that could mean bad news for later on. Especially if you're during full load tests.

Glad it's working









Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


oops, I hadn't noticed to didn't have the CPU in the board. I could have told you it won't make the beeps without the CPU....crap wish I had seem that.


GuardianOdin, I kind of had a feeling that was the cause of all 4 LEDS being lit up. I've also gotten the 4 LEDS when my 4-pin 12volt connector wasn't properly seated. So it could many things, thankfully for N2Gaming it was just the CPU socket being empty


----------



## Bogeyone001

ok thanks. i will be sure to pick up some thermal compound soon

and i have the arctic cooler 64 pro


----------



## N2Gaming

thanks guys for all the moral support. tried hdd loaded w/2000 pro from older dfi board and failed to boot into windows blue screen of death. so I'm trying to load xp now keep ya posted.


----------



## Blitz6804

The DFI is unusual then. All motherboards I have owned from Slot A to Skt 939 have had a crazy beep pattern when there is no CPU in the socket.


----------



## Pest

Well now that I'm on the boards I think it's about time to re-do my OC. I have a feeling I can get to around 2.8 or higher. 
However I do have one important question, it seems to me that Win2k reads temps higher than XP, as I was running XP earlier and my temps were about 10-15C cooler. In bios my temps are also higher even though I lowered the cpu voltage, I also reapplied AS5 and no change.
Thoughts?


----------



## Blitz6804

I have a few thoughts yes. Windows XP on many chipsets will read a lower temperature than it actually is. This largely depends on the monitoring software. One of the best is Everest Ultimate, which is available as 30-day trialware.

As for temperatures, Arctic Silver 5 requires a cure to obtain full effectiveness. After 200 hours of on/off cycles you will reach peak efficiency.


----------



## Pest

I've used Coretemp, everest, speedfan and S&M, all but speedfan place idle cpu temps at 60C and 55C roughly. In xp I was idleing in the mid 30s _with_ higher vcore, guess I'm just wondering what is causing it to be so much higher. Ambient temp is around 28C. This is the main reason I'm going to reclock my cpu.


----------



## Blitz6804

Wait... 60Âº C IDLE!? What does the BIOS say again? It is possible that the driver for Win2k is messed up.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, try giving DFI a call and see what they say. A lot of times DFI can just send you a new BIOS which is around $20-$30 including shipping. You can get to there RMA website by going here: http://www.dfi.com.tw/RMA/rma_request_step0_us.jsp.

If all four LEDS are on that is commonly known as the "4 LEDS of death" but you might be also getting that because there is no processor or memory installed. A proper boot up of the motherboard would not display all 4 LEDS (for a continuous amount of time).

Good luck









think3r: I found this slightly cheaper on ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...:X:RTQ:US:1123 90 day guarantee can't be that bad. cheaper to boot. $9.99 for chip with latest updates just incase any one is interested. I can't get past install system keeps turning off. I'm betting it's becuase of a bad cap. my guess is the loose one. I have pc2100 mushkin 256mb part # 3328662 installed in the outer orange slot. set at dram fsb of 133. does that sound right. any way I canged the ram stick to the outer yellow slot will post results shortly.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pest* 
I've used Coretemp, everest, speedfan and S&M, all but speedfan place idle cpu temps at 60C and 55C roughly. In xp I was idleing in the mid 30s _with_ higher vcore, guess I'm just wondering what is causing it to be so much higher. Ambient temp is around 28C. This is the main reason I'm going to reclock my cpu.

I believe the highly-esteemed thlnk3r has some experience with Win2K temperature reporting issues with these dual-cores. I can't quite remember what he did upon discovering this, though...

Hopefully he'll see this issue and offer up some thoughts.

Welcome to the Club, Pest!







We're glad to have you on board.


----------



## GuardianOdin

DFI LANparty Venus!!!!!!!


----------



## N2Gaming

update: I get to with in 18 min to cp installation complete and it powers off. so I'm running a memtest from bios right now as a last ditch effort before I attempt the caps repair.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
DFI LANparty Venus!!!!!!!

I saw that a couple of days ago and though if only I had money to throw away for bragging rights.







sur would be nice. I'd like to have one just to see what componants are different from the expert. Heck caps are not that hard to replace. hopefully I didn't just jinx myself by saying that.







some one will buy it maybe. new baords comming out soon with quad gpu and sli 16 x16 kind of makes it outdated a little. question. will a good grfx card like a xfx 8800 gts work good on nf4 board and play games like crysis maxed out? I have 2 xfx 8600 gts in sli mode and cysys does not like to be anything over medium and low res on a m2n32sli delux with well my sig rig it's just below. would one 8800 gts be better than 2 8600 gts all card having 512mb ram ea.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
DFI LANparty Venus!!!!!!!

Buy it for me, G.O.?









Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
update: I get to with in 18 min to cp installation complete and it powers off. so I'm running a memtest from bios right now as a last ditch effort before I attempt the caps repair.

N2Gaming, I'm not sure if a single bad cap will make an entire system behave in such a specific way. This sounds more like a HDD or HDD controller-based issue to me. I believe thlnk3r already suggested running a surface scan of the drive to check for bad sectors; a bad sector will cause a system shutdown.

Good luck.


----------



## Blitz6804

And when he buys it for you, you can ship me your fancy-schamcy ATI-chipsetted DFI...


----------



## N2Gaming

txtmstrjoe: I must have missed that where ever it was. I'll try a different hdd maybe a sata instead of ata hm. besides the memtest has ran two passes with 0 errors. I'll let memtest run a little longer and then try diff hdd. thanks.


----------



## Pest

I had a feeling it had something to do with the AMD dualcore drivers for win2k, mostly because I don't think there are any. I'll browse some more and see what I can find. BIOS reads in the 40s if I remember correctly.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I saw that a couple of days ago and though if only I had money to throw away for bragging rights.







sur would be nice. I'd like to have one just to see what componants are different from the expert. Heck caps are not that hard to replace. hopefully I didn't just jinx myself by saying that.







some one will buy it maybe. new baords comming out soon with quad gpu and sli 16 x16 kind of makes it outdated a little. question. will a good grfx card like a xfx 8800 gts work good on nf4 board and play games like crysis maxed out? I have 2 xfx 8600 gts in sli mode and cysys does not like to be anything over medium and low res on a m2n32sli delux with well my sig rig it's just below. would one 8800 gts be better than 2 8600 gts all card having 512mb ram ea.


Here is a good article about the Venus. DFI LANParty Venus nF4 SLI-DR Expert Motherboard

and a quote from it

Quote:



A very important feature of this motherboard is its capacitors: all Japanese and all aluminum, as you can see on Figure 4.


----------



## N2Gaming

G.O. it also says that the karjan alc850 audio block is soldered directly to the board not removable. so if you have a ut expert w/all aluminum caps and audio block soldered to mobo it's a venus for sure.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

According to this thread, the various DFI LANParty motherboards for S939 have differing strengths and optimizations as well vis-a-vis their RAM compatibility. In other words, not all of the DFI LANParty motherboards were created equal. They each had their own strengths and weaknesses according to what RAM you put in them.

To wit, the non-Expert motherboards (Ultra D, SLI-D, SLI-DR) were optimized for TCCD/TCC5 and BH-5 (and other types of ICs which were of low density); the SLI-DR Expert was optimized for RAM with heavier densities (Infineon BE-series/CE-series, especially), i.e, 2 x 1GB kits; the legendary (and hard-to-find) Venus is basically an optimized Expert, with more heavy duty voltage regulation and better capacitors (more suited for banzai overclockers with extreme cooling strategies); the CFX3200-DR was meant to be the ultimate tuner's motherboard, with the most adjustable BIOS this side of a NASA supercomputer. The CFX3200-DR, for sure, has the most dizzying array of RAM tweaking options that I've ever seen (35 separate options that must be set properly, or the motherboard will be more flaky than a Collie with dandruff even at stock clocks).

If you're lucky to have old-style RAM ICs (Winbond BH-series and CH-series, Samsung TCCD or TCC5), your best friend is any of these motherboards. That's the DFI advantage, at least when it comes to S939: They are meant for people who have the patience to tune their RAM for maximum performance. But they are definitely not for people with a casual interest in overclocking/tweaking.


----------



## GuardianOdin

after reading that article about the Venus...there really isn't much difference from that Vs the Expert.


----------



## N2Gaming

from what I gather. the reworked VRM's and reworked memory traces and drive make the voltage more stable when going past 3.3 dramvolt. I read that in an article somewhere wish I could remember where.


----------



## PROBN4LYFE

Where's my 4000+ OC?!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
G.O. it also says that the karjan alc850 audio block is soldered directly to the board not removable. so if you have a ut expert w/all aluminum caps and audio block soldered to mobo it's a venus for sure.


Both the Venus and Expert carry the solid caps. It is correct about the karjan alc850 audio block.

The difference with the caps is the Expert has a light brown and the Venus have the light blue, but both are solid.


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
You may be able to access it from a LiveCD operating system such as Ubuntu Linux.

And yes Thlnk3r, I am talking about Windows Experience (A.K.A. "Windows XP"). In my experience on three different occasions, if the computer is stable in Experience, it is also stable in Vista. Perhaps you may get a higher suicide in Experience, but I care not for suicides.

That's been my experience as well with both my Opty 170 and my E6750. Vista is no more or less stable than XP with regards to oc'ing.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I believe the highly-esteemed thlnk3r has some experience with Win2K temperature reporting issues with these dual-cores. I can't quite remember what he did upon discovering this, though


Joe, rats I completely forgot. Unfortunately I did not take any notes/documentation when I tested my Opteron 170 with Win2k









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pest*


However I do have one important question, it seems to me that Win2k reads temps higher than XP, as I was running XP earlier and my temps were about 10-15C cooler. In bios my temps are also higher even though I lowered the cpu voltage, I also reapplied AS5 and no change.
Thoughts?


Pest, perhaps it's just a coincidence that your temperatures are reading higher then what was recorded in your XP installation. Do you have both operating systems set up on one drive (dual boot) or did you just install Win2k? Just curious, how did you apply the AS5? Make sure you only apply the thermal compound on the center of the IHS. It should be the size of a uncooked rice grain. The mounting pressure of the cooler will spread the TIM (thermal interface material) evenly so don't worry. In your BIOS, are the temperatures listed for both cores or is it just the "CPU Temp"? The cpu temp is typically the temperature at the IHS level.

N2Gaming, it's quite possible the random reboots could be do to a faulty cap. I had a P4 board with 6 leaking caps and I didn't even know. Eventually the computer just wouldn't stay powered on or it just constantly restarted. You have nothing really too loose now if the board is damaged (from previous owner) so you could replace the caps and see what happens. What was the burnt mark on the bottom of the motherboard that you mentioned in one of your earlier posts?

Good luck guys


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Both the Venus and Expert carry the solid caps. It is correct about the karjan alc850 audio block.

The difference with the caps is the Expert has a light brown and the Venus have the light blue, but both are solid.


 true. however the venice caps don't have the Y slot on the top. I guess that makes them better??? don't know how though maybe the venice caps not having the plastic sheathing helps keep them cooler.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, it's quite possible the random reboots could be do to a faulty cap. I had a P4 board with 6 leaking caps and I didn't even know. Eventually the computer just wouldn't stay powered on or it just constantly restarted. You have nothing really too loose now if the board is damaged (from previous owner) so you could replace the caps and see what happens. What was the burnt mark on the bottom of the motherboard that you mentioned in one of your earlier posts?

Good luck guys










 I don't know the exact reason the board ended up on ebay the way it did but the caps and some of the other hardware have damage from what I believe was caused from being sandwitched between 10 to 50 printed circuit boards then trasported probably to a pcb recycle center. all of the damage is of this type. the only thing I noticed on the board so far is the little burn mark on the back side of a 6.3v 1000uf cap between the pcie x4 and pcie x1 slots. other then that the board it self is near perfect. As recamended by txtmstrjoe I was able to get the board to boot to a different hdd. I already had a sata installed w/xp from my sig rig. it had a virus anyway. I ran memtest for over 11 passes w/0 errors. I'll replace a couple of caps just to be safe when I get a chance and a warm day.

Edit: using a good sata drive per txtmstrjoe, I performed a fresh install of xp on the first try w/o any hickups. Thanks for pointing out that a hdd bad sector problem causes the system to shut off during os install. I never knew that. So far from what I can tell the baord appears to be good. I only tested it with a old ati 1mb pci card. you know cheap and easy to toss if the baord ruins the card. If I remember correctly, some people had a problem with the pcie x16 slot so I'll try that one next.


----------



## Blitz6804

Actually thlnk3r, that is a dot about half as big as a grain of uncooked short grain.

If you have not lapped your CPU, I go for a dot about the size of the AMD logo above the copyright year.


----------



## pez

Ok guys, I swear this will be the last time; With an 8800gt and a 1680x1050 monitor could I get away w/ high settings on games like COD4, and then some potential games like Assassin's Creed, Mass Effect, Stalker: SC, etc. Could I get away with a ddr3 3870? AA and AF isn't important to me except in CSS (only game i notice the difference. can't tell in cod4 or cysis). I might end up going w/ 1440x900, but hopefully I can do 1680x1050.


----------



## N2Gaming

I was gonna show you a link from tigerdirect for a 512mb xfx 8800 gts they had a video review of this card claiming it beats the 8800 gt, they claim it easily overclocks faster then the xfx 8800 gtx. oh well. I'd like to know the anser to your question as well.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Actually thlnk3r, that is a dot about half as big as a grain of uncooked short grain.

If you have not lapped your CPU, I go for a dot about the size of the AMD logo above the copyright year.


Blitz, the instructions were just for reference. Wanted to make sure that spreading the TIM across the entire IHS was not needed









I still apply the TIM the size of a small uncooked rice grain. Just enough to where it just covers the center of the IHS and not to much to where it oozes out. I might actually use half the size of that, it's really hard to say since each application is never the same.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

has any one successfully used the nf4 ClockGen to overclock your system. I have tried several times and my sytem freezes right after I click apply settings.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


has any one successfully used the nf4 ClockGen to overclock your system. I have tried several times and my sytem freezes right after I click apply settings.










N2Gaming, I would advice not using Clockgen when trying to overclock your system. To answer your question, have you tried this version of clockgen: http://files.extremeoverclocking.com/file.php?f=105?

Software overclocking can be dangerous especially if your overclock is not stable. Not only do you risk damaging your operating system but it's also possible that hardware could be damaged as well(mainly the via series chipsets that did not allow pci/agp locking). I recommend doing all of your overclocking/tweaking through the BIOS.

Hope that helps


----------



## N2Gaming

duly noted. thank you for setting me straight. I promise from here on out I will only attempt overclock from bios.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


duly noted. thank you for setting me straight. I promise from here on out I will only attempt overclock from bios.










N2Gaming, applications like "systool" aren't actually that bad for minor changes. For example, some motherboards won't allow you to change the command rate but with systool you can change the values within Windows. Strange I know but it's definitely a work around for some users.

Good luck and enjoy the DFI BIOS


----------



## Blitz6804

Pez, please post exactly what your PC settings are. I will dial back my PC to match and give you what a single 3850 does in Mass Effect, Call of Duty 4, and Crysis at that resolution. (My 3850 are the Diamond Ruby Editions; they run at 725/900.)

Regards software overclocking, I know a lot of people use it to overclock, and then enter it in the BIOS when they find something they are happy with. For the risks thlnk3r delineated, I always just used the BIOS straight up.


----------



## N2Gaming

Check this out. I talked to the ebay seller about the boards having damaged capacitors and scratched traces on one board and in doing so I was able to get a $15.00 refund.







So final cost for 2 expert boards only no accessries deliverd was $17.47 not to shabby. so far I have only tested one board and it seems to have 1 miner issue. If I change jp7 to enable pc sleep mode w/keyboard the buzzer keeps spittin like a stuck key on the keyboard. I'll look into that later. Here is the best news about the board yet. The pcie x 16 slot works







I'de say that's a good deal when you consider I still have to find the karjan audio block and sli brige. I wonder if any sli brige will work. like if I take one from a asus board. After all it's connecting two video cards not two mother boards right. So in therory every manufactures sli bridges should all have the same pin configurations. Does any one know about the sli bridge's







Cheers with RootBeers.


----------



## Blitz6804

An SLI bridge will work regardless of the manufacturers involved. The same is true of Crossfire bridges.


----------



## N2Gaming

cool thanks. now all I have to do is find a karjan audio block for sounds. I wonder would I be better off buying a sound blaster pci card if the karjan block is more than say $20.00


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Pez, please post exactly what your PC settings are. I will dial back my PC to match and give you what a single 3850 does in Mass Effect, Call of Duty 4, and Crysis at that resolution. (My 3850 are the Diamond Ruby Editions; they run at 725/900.)

Regards software overclocking, I know a lot of people use it to overclock, and then enter it in the BIOS when they find something they are happy with. For the risks thlnk3r delineated, I always just used the BIOS straight up.


Ok, this will be a big help:

CPU: 2.5ghz
RAM: running at 500mhz

Erm...what else do you need to know? Most of it is just in the sig. I'm really biased towards the 98/88gt, so I just don't know at this point.


----------



## Blitz6804

It would be great if you knew your RAM bandwidth and latencies. This information can be obtained from Everest Ultimate.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


It would be great if you knew your RAM bandwidth and latencies. This information can be obtained from Everest Ultimate.


ermmm...I'm not at home, the timings? are 3-3-3-8 (cas at 2), but not sure of the bandwidth, it's the ddr500 you sold me







. I know for games like cod4, the gpu is the dominant factor, so I don't think the RAM would play that much of a role in it. I would really rather just get one card. I don't think i'd mind just going 1440x900 res, and I know the 3870 or the 9800gt would do fine at those, but I just want to know if the 9800gt would hold up for me on most games such as the ones I listen on the 1680x1050 res.

Now that I think of it, if you would just underclock your CPU and tell me your results, then I think I could base it off of that, because 2 3850's are on/or better than the performance of a single 88/98gt.


----------



## Blitz6804

My 3850s do not run at reference clocks though. Based on what I see, they are essentially as if a 3860 was made. I was going to also tweak my RAM as best I can to match yours. If you are running DDR 500 1:1 at the specced 3-3-2-8, you should be around 8000 MBps. If you are not, you will be lower than that, and I wanted to adjust my RAM to compensate.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


My 3850s do not run at reference clocks though. Based on what I see, they are essentially as if a 3860 was made. I was going to also tweak my RAM as best I can to match yours. If you are running DDR 500 1:1 at the specced 3-3-2-8, you should be around 8000 MBps. If you are not, you will be lower than that, and I wanted to adjust my RAM to compensate.


Wait, what resolution is your monitor native? I would love it even more if you could tell me cod4 results on that resolution at 2.5ghz. I wouldn't even care about crysis that much if I could play cod4 at 1920x1200. My fault also, 2x3870's are about equal to an 8800gt. That would about gage my performance. My RAM is at a 200 divi. fsb is at 250x10 w/ htt at x4 and ram is at a 200 divi.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes, I figured that is what your RAM is running. The question is the bandwidth. Yes, you guessed correctly, my monitor is 1920x1200. I have not tried running CoD 4 at 2.5 GHz yet, I will do so when I get back from classes today. From experimentation with Pioneerisloud, we figure a pair of 3850s in crossfire are about the same as an 8800 GTS (G80) 320 MB.

I can tell you just off my memory that with all-medium @ 1440x900 with my CPU at 2.8 GHz, I get about 40-45 FPS in Crysis. Call of Duty 4 ran at 1920x1200, full AF, no AA, no "soften smoke edges," and no "shadows" for around the same. Again, that is 2.8 GHz. I will try later.


----------



## pez

ahh K, thanks.


----------



## Blitz6804

I will do more testing later, but for now, I just fired up CoD 4 with two 3850s (725/900), my CPU at 2.25 GHz, and a RAM bandwidth of 7200 MBps. I booted up Overgrown on a server/client. (That is, launched a non-dedicated server from the rig in question.) The game is set to 1920x1200, all options but VSync turned up to their highest setting. At worst, I got 35 FPS (sighting down an M60E4 while firing in a wide open field and walking) and at best, I go 80 FPS (standing still inside a house). The average is in the low 60s.


----------



## pez

Hmmm I like those results. It seems like the 9800gt won't be a bad choice. I have someone offering me a great deal on the 8800gt's, but they're starting to fade out. My only reason for not going for it is that if I want to go SLI around x-mas, then it would be hard to find another when the 9800gt is the same. How long would one 8800gt last me for games? Like will I be able to play fallout 3 and farcry 2 that's coming out?

BTW: I'm at home...how do I find out RAM bandwidth. CPU-z tells me max bandwidth is pc3200 (200mhz)

EDIT: Now I know I'm asking a lot. Do you mind still doing the single 3850 on 1680x1050? For some reason, I want another ATI card. SLI appeals to me, but I remember the first time I went from a 6600LE to a X800XL and I was so amazed. I think a 8800gt or a 3870 is calling my name right now. Just have to figure out which wants it more







.


----------



## Blitz6804

I know for a fact an 8800 GT (G92) is a good card. As I have said, one 8800 GT (G92) out performs my cards in Crossfire. I my father's PC runs a pair of 8800 GTs in SLI and he has yet to find a game he hasn't been able to max out. In my opinion, the 8800 GT (G92) is likely one of the best values on the market in terms of price, going for as cheap as $115 on Newegg new. (Wait; scratch that. It seems the 9800 GT can be had for as cheap as $120 on Newegg.) This is especially if you like to play nVidia-skewed games such as Crysis, Call of Duty 4, and 3DMark06. (For the record, a 4870 goes for about $250.)


----------



## Bogeyone001

what would be a great board preferably by dfi to run the x4 9950
curious..


----------



## Blitz6804

I recommend asking this in the AM2/AM2+ Club thread.


----------



## Bogeyone001

ok thanks


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz & Pez, the price for the 8800GT is more or less then a 4850. The one model (exception) being $114 is a steal in my opinion. If you're willing to spend $150 to $180 on a 8800GT then I would go with a 4850.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bogeyone001* 
what would be a great board preferably by dfi to run the x4 9950
curious..

Bogeyone, the DFI 790FX series motherboards are pretty nice. You may want to look into that one. Another interesting model that I haven't heard much about is the DFI 790GX. I personally have not overclocked any of these boards so I can't really tell you from experience.

Hope that helps

Good luck


----------



## Bogeyone001

thanks much









Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Bogeyone, the DFI 790FX series motherboards are pretty nice. You may want to look into that one. Another interesting model that I haven't heard much about is the DFI 790GX. I personally have not overclocked any of these boards so I can't really tell you from experience.

Hope that helps

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I was going to PM you, but your box is full, so unfortunately, I must post here. One small caveat of the 790FX DFIs: Do NOT get a DFI LP DK 790FX M2RS if you want to use a 140 W CPU. The power phases are not sufficient according to DFI. If you get a 125 W 9950 BE you may be fine. If not, get a UT 790FX M2R.


----------



## Bogeyone001

thanks will empty my box


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz & Pez, the price for the 8800GT is more or less then a 4850. The one model (exception) being $114 is a steal in my opinion. If you're willing to spend $150 to $180 on a 8800GT then I would go with a 4850.

Bogeyone, the DFI 790FX series motherboards are pretty nice. You may want to look into that one. Another interesting model that I haven't heard much about is the DFI 790GX. I personally have not overclocked any of these boards so I can't really tell you from experience.

Hope that helps

Good luck









I got offered a 8800gt for $100 shipped, but I kinda want a 9800gt for ease if I do decide to SLI and those can be had for ~$120-130. I just remember the raw power the x800 had compared to those 6600LE's that I had in SLI. Is it a sure thing about the hd 4830 yet? Now that would have my attention. As a side note, I really want a 4850, but I want to wait for their price to hit $150 or below.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I was going to PM you, but your box is full, so unfortunately, I must post here. One small caveat of the 790FX DFIs: Do NOT get a DFI LP DK 790FX M2RS if you want to use a 140 W CPU. The power phases are not sufficient according to DFI. If you get a 125 W 9950 BE you may be fine. If not, get a UT 790FX M2R.


Blitz, thank you for sharing that with us....very interesting


----------



## Pest

Well I re-applied the AS5, before I was covering the whole IHS made me feel like a noob, and now my temps are down a few degrees though still not a whole lot. Also re-clocked my computer and unofficially have been stable at 2.8 for a few hours now with some gameplay, I'll prime at somepoint and try lowering the vcore to help temps. Thanks for your help guys, I'll keep you all posted.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pest* 
Well I re-applied the AS5, before I was covering the whole IHS made me feel like a noob, and now my temps are down a few degrees though still not a whole lot.

Pest, you aren't a "noob" you were just misinformed. We all have to learn sometime.

I believe with AS5 there is a period between 50 - 200 hours where the compound finally "settles" in. From what I read the cooling down and warming up process plays a big factor(turning off and turning on the computer). After that time you should see better temperature results when at full load.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Again, give the AS5 some time to sit. Under a 50% usage cycle, it will take a little over two weeks to reach peak temp. (200 hours is the time here.) You can expect a 2-5Âº C drop if it was applied properly according to Arctic Silver. I have seen a drop as large as 8Âº C in my experience.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
I got offered a 8800gt for $100 shipped, but I kinda want a 9800gt for ease if I do decide to SLI and those can be had for ~$120-130. As a side note, I really want a 4850, but I want to wait for their price to hit $150 or below.

Hey pez I saw this card 9800gtx plus for $169 after rebate. just in case you might be interested. supose to be very good card look at this link they have a video review. http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...153&CatId=3670 Just another option to consider if your interested in sli down the road.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Hey pez I saw this card 9800gtx plus for $169 after rebate. just in case you might be interested. supose to be very good card look at this link they have a video review. http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...153&CatId=3670 Just another option to consider if your interested in sli down the road.

Yeah, it's amazing. I thought when I had the money, I would have an easy decision, but I don't lol. I had looked at the HD4850 at first, along w/ it's direct competitor; the 9800GTX+. I then went on to look at the 98/88GT's and the HD3870. Then I even went as low as the 9600GT. I've said a few times that I was going to go w/ the 4850, and then other times, the 8800GT. I hate that I can't even make up my mind. The sad part is, I've been researching this for at least a month or two now. I think the real question now that's making a big decision factor is monitor size. I really want to go 22" or 24" which means, I could get away with a 98GT, but I could also go 24" and get away with a 4850. Decisions are so hard. UGH!


----------



## N2Gaming

tell me about it. I would stay away from 8600gt I have 2x8600gts 512mb and I can't max any serious games. I hook it up to my 1080p 40" samsung and it's great but l have to use low res with med to low settings for far cry. even then I still have a little choppy screen from time to time. I'm looking to get a card that I can max @ 1920 x 1080. I think the 9800gtx + is the card for me. one good thing I like about tiger direct. no hassle returns. if you don't like it or it does not live up to your expectations return it with in 30 days. Now that's worry free. If the price drops in 30 days on a better card. you could return it and buy the ohter card. You just have to fork out the shipping and handling. so when it's all said and done your probably better off doing your home work like you have been for the last month and getting the best bang for you buck. One more note: I belive xfx provides lifetime warranty. I should get some advertising compensation for that. lol


----------



## Bogeyone001

ok so i am having difficulty getting 2.9GHz stable..
have i just hit a wall at 2.8GHz or is there something i can do to help this and even get it to 3GHz


----------



## N2Gaming

lol for that Bogey. that looks pretty good to me. what is your fsb, multiplier, ram fsb & divider.


----------



## Blitz6804

I presume this is 290x10? What do you have your Corsairs set to? Timings and divider please. How much VCore are you running? How much DDRV are you running?


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


lol for that Bogey. that looks pretty good to me. what is your fsb, multiplier, ram fsb & divider.


here are cpuz shots

will take pics of dram settings and bios real quick


----------



## Bogeyone001

sry for the quality..


----------



## N2Gaming

maybe it's just me but i'm haveing problem viewing your cpuz shots.


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


maybe it's just me but i'm haveing problem viewing your cpuz shots.


hmm i can view them fine
just look at my bios pics then 
its all there


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes, it is just you. They are BMP, and OCN doesn't much care for BMP. Save the targets and view, and there is no problem.

Bogey, what temperature is the CPU at load with 2.8 GHz?


----------



## Bogeyone001

core 0 56 deg
core 1 57

I managed to fix my cpu fan so its helping alot


----------



## Blitz6804

Remembering that your maximum temperature is 71Âº C, does added VCore enhance stability? Nothing seems out of the ordinary with your settings you should be on the right track. HOWEVER, as has been said many a time, DFIs are finicky boards. I am sure GuardianOdin can check it out when he gets a free minute.


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Remembering that your maximum temperature is 71Âº C, does added VCore enhance stability? Nothing seems out of the ordinary with your settings you should be on the right track. HOWEVER, as has been said many a time, DFIs are finicky boards. I am sure GuardianOdin can check it out when he gets a free minute.


I will keep in mind and have been watching temps like a hawk to make sure it doesnt come close to 71 which it hasnt really especially now my fan is fixed and i will be getting as5 in the mail soon. that should help compared to my dynex compound

as to the vcore it only goes to 1.55 volts. its at 1.475 now
is it safe to increase this all the way(by.025 increments of course)


----------



## Blitz6804

"Safe" is in the eye of the beholder. Often, a "suicide" will be higher than most people feel comfortable for running 24/7. I have myself once spiked a K8 to 1.80 V trying to get that 1 GHz overclock. (I didn't reach it; the CPU lived.) The general rule of thumb is 1.5-1.6 V on air, 1.6-1.7 V under water, and 1.75 V for phase change. (AMD says not to exceed 1.4 V. Like anyone listens to that.)


----------



## Bogeyone001

Ok good to know about the voltage.
will increase and see if that helps

EDIT: ok so no go on the voltage increase all the way to 1.55 
still wont run orthos for a second


----------



## Blitz6804

I am sure the answer is no, but do you know the maximum HTT, maximum CPU speed, and maximum RAM speed? It is very likely that you are nearing the CPU cap, but it is not unreasonable to think about a maximum HTT or RAM speed without tweaking. (By chance, have you tried the crazy idea of dropping RAM to the DDR 200 divider?)


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I am sure the answer is no, but do you know the maximum HTT, maximum CPU speed, and maximum RAM speed? It is very likely that you are nearing the CPU cap, but it is not unreasonable to think about a maximum HTT or RAM speed without tweaking. (By chance, have you tried the crazy idea of dropping RAM to the DDR 200 divider?)


still testing ram max
max cpu 2900
max htt not sure yet still teting
dropping ram to ddr200 ? no i havent


----------



## GuardianOdin

hey Bogeyone001

I believe your OC wall may be due to the RAM. The settings on these DFI are very finicky with RAM. You will want to OC the RAM and CPU separate to find the max on both.

Twcl: 2 or 3 "if options are there"

DRAM drive strength: "Auto"
Max Async Latency: "Auto" 
Read Preamble Time: "Auto"


----------



## Blitz6804

I reiterate post 7673. You cannot test RAM while testing maximum CPU and vice-versa. All three tests are mutually exclusive. To test HTT, drop CPU to 5x, drop RAM to 200:100. To test RAM, drop CPU to 5x, run RAM 200:200. To test CPU, drop RAM to 200:100 and raise CPU to max multi.


----------



## Bogeyone001

ok i will go back to testing and update whenevr done


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bogeyone001*


sry for the quality..


Bogeyone, have you tried changing your command rate (CR) from 1T to 2T? You may want to double check your Vdimm. I don't think you need it at 2.90 - 2.96volts especially with your memory being slightly underclocked. Do you have all the "spread spectrum" options disabled?

Good luck


----------



## Pest

Bogeyone001 what is the voltage you are pushing through your RAM? That and looser timings are something to keep in mind when you find your RAM max.

Edit: To slow, lost to thlnk3r.


----------



## thlnk3r

Pest, no worries









I too was a bit curious about the Vdimm setting. According to the shots he took of his bios, it looks like it's reading 2.96volts which is extremely high and not required for what he's doing. Perhaps it's another DFI BIOS anomaly.


----------



## Pest

I still need to test my new clock for stability but it seems ok for now. I was wondering if I could get some help with my RAM settings, 
I never can seem to retain which timings do what and I don't know anything about the spread spectrum settings in BIOS. 
I'm hoping this could help me get a higher overclock or increased stabilty.


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Bogeyone, have you tried changing your command rate (CR) from 1T to 2T? You may want to double check your Vdimm. I don't think you need it at 2.90 - 2.96volts especially with your memory being slightly underclocked. Do you have all the "spread spectrum" options disabled?

Good luck











Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pest, no worries









I too was a bit curious about the Vdimm setting. According to the shots he took of his bios, it looks like it's reading 2.96volts which is extremely high and not required for what he's doing. Perhaps it's another DFI BIOS anomaly.


will check spectrum options and disable

also i cant seem to find where to change the command rate. what will changing it do?

well ive been working with txtmstrjoe and i got 2 sets of settings for my ram which hes been doing a lot of research on about my ram and the ic's

it was at 2.7 before then 2.9


----------



## Blitz6804

The command rate has a massive effect on both stability and RAM bandwidth. On a Socket 939 K8, the difference of bandwidth is large, maybe some 10-20%. However, the effect of stability is two fold. It is entirely possible that RAM that cannot be stabilized at DDR 333 1T will run quite happily at DDR 500 2T. As always however, your mileage may vary.

In your case, it is "Command Per Clock (CPC)." Change that from "Enable" to "Disable."









This is where the command is found.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


The command rate has a massive effect on both stability and RAM bandwidth. will run quite happily at DDR 500 2T. As always however, your mileage may vary. 
In your case, it is "Command Per Clock (CPC)." Change that from "Enable" to "Disable."


what does disabling cpc do? how does it help/affect overclock.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bogeyone001*


will check spectrum options and disable

also i cant seem to find where to change the command rate. what will changing it do?

well ive been working with txtmstrjoe and i got 2 sets of settings for my ram which hes been doing a lot of research on about my ram and the ic's

it was at 2.7 before then 2.9


Bogeyone, I don't see any reason for putting 2.9volts into your memory. Do you have any tools to check the temperature of your memory? When I ran my memory at 2.8volts when testing, it was extremely hot. The heatspreaders were in the range of 50C. I'll talk to Joe, maybe he's having you run that voltage for a reason.

The spread spectrum options are located in "Advanced Chipset Features". Make sure also that _CPU Thermal-Throttling_ is disabled.

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
what does disabling cpc do? how does it help/affect overclock.









Disabling CPC sets the Command Rate to 2T.

For the effects on stability and performance, see Blitz's most recent post (though the effect on bandwidth is, for me, a bit contentious; some say it's a huge hit, as Blitz suggests, while others say it's a relatively small performance hit, considering that the performance could be recovered if the RAM can be run at a much higher frequency than at 1T). It's something I'm going to test in the future once the logistics to do so are finally in place.


----------



## N2Gaming

I see thank you.


----------



## Blitz6804

The bandwidth hit is pronounced on Skt 939. In my case, I watched the bandwidth drop from 7000 MBps down to 5300 MBps, a loss of 24.3%.

On Skt AM2/775, with their higher RAM speeds anyway, the effect is much less pronounced. In my experience, I get a 3.3% hit. My friend's C2D gets only a 1% hit. Many Intel boards do not even give you the option to run 1T anymore.

Thus, we see, as Joe has said, a faster RAM speed may outweigh the lost bandwidth anyway. DDR2 813 4-4-4-12-1T-16-102ns gave me 9284 MBps whereas DDR2 929 5-5-5-15-2T-20-127.5ns gave me 9211 MBps. Considering the bandwidth test has a margin of error of 50 MBps, you can say these are the same.


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz, funny you mentioned that. I ran a test last night on my memory. At it's current settings I was getting 6048MBps. This is at 2T CR with my current sub-timings listed in my signature. Interesting to see the difference betwene DDR 400 and DDR2 800









Good luck


----------



## pez

So even though I'll be bottlenecked, will I still see improvements with SLI? Like If I had one 9800gt, would I see a difference if I had 2? I mean, I know it probably wouldn't get what people normally get when they're not bottlenecked, but would I at least see some difference?


----------



## Blitz6804

Again, I refuse to believe that word "bottleneck." I added a second video card and I gained about 30% in 3DMark06. I further gained a ton of FPS; I went from 40 FPS with 0xAA to 80 FPS with 4x AA. Slowing down my CPU from 3.25 GHz to 2.25 GHz only lost about 5-10 FPS off that (depending on the map).


----------



## Bogeyone001

hmm interesting effects on the ram.

im still testing my max hypertransport which is at 1250 right now
but after that i will go back to my ram and see what i can get


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Again, I refuse to believe that word "bottleneck." I added a second video card and I gained about 30% in 3DMark06. I further gained a ton of FPS; I went from 40 FPS with 0xAA to 80 FPS with 4x AA. Slowing down my CPU from 3.25 GHz to 2.25 GHz only lost about 5-10 FPS off that (depending on the map).


Blitz, the discussion about "bottlenecking" can go on for hours. This is a very interesting article about the subject: http://www.overclock.net/graphics-ca...rned-stop.html. Is that 5-10FPS loss an actual result of "bottlenecking" or just insufficient speeds? It depends on how you define the meaning of bottlenecking. Joe and I already came to the conclusion that our rigs are obviously not fast enough to keep up with these new cards (48xx series). I highly doubt we are using the most out of the cards as well.

Good luck


----------



## pez

Ok, so I'm 85% sure at this point that I'm going to order a 9800gt. Now, I just need to know which brand? I'm thinking evga? Lifetime warranty and haven't seen any problems about getting too hot or fan to loud. You guys think I'll be fine w/ most newer games w/ the 9800gt? Consider this w/ the potential of SLI and a 1680x1050, or 1920x1200 res monitor for X-mas.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Ok, so I'm 85% sure at this point that I'm going to order a 9800gt. Now, I just need to know which brand? I'm thinking evga? Lifetime warranty and haven't seen any problems about getting too hot or fan to loud. You guys think I'll be fine w/ most newer games w/ the 9800gt? Consider this w/ the potential of SLI and a 1680x1050, or 1920x1200 res monitor for X-mas.

Pez, a 9800GT will be fine. I mean you can't expect HUGE numbers when running such a high resolution...a lot comes in to factor. The 9800GT is more than enough though. My brother still games on a X800XT. At 1280x1024 in COD4 he gets about 60-70fps. Not entirely sure what display settings are enabled or disabled but that should answer your question









Good luck with the purchase


----------



## Bogeyone001

so i think i have just hit a wall..

max htt=350
max ram= 240
max hypertransport=1300
max cpu=2800

but when i combine these i cant get it stable.

its better at least orthos doesnt fail right away but it still does
i can play games just fine all day but not orthos


----------



## txtmstrjoe

My thoughts on video cards and bottlenecking can be distilled thus: Bottlenecking only really exists if all you're interested in are benchmark figures. Insofar as using the video card in its intended capacity (i.e., to accelerate 3D imaging in games), unless you're running a monstrously high resolution (considerably higher than, say, 1920 x 1200), it's a marketing-driven fallacy.

In my opinion, unless a game is somehow badly coded (i.e., horribly inefficient in its usage of the hardware), modern video cards ought to be able to run it even with most (if not all) of the eye candy at most standard resolutions available even with an older platform such as S939. Of course, the higher the resolution you run, the lower your FPS will be given the same level of eye candy. But always be mindful that peak FPS is nothing but e-peen wagging; the real key number is the FPS minimum. If this FPS minimum isn't lower than 35-40 FPS, then you're good to go.

Because we're all greedy for performance, we often fail to acknowledge that we are living in a golden age, where the available hardware is incredibly powerful and unbelievably priced. The performance to price ratio has never ever been so high, and for most games even a so-called lower mid-range card such as a 8800 GTS (G92) or a HD 3870 is prodigious enough to run our games well. Heck, even previous-generation cards such as the Radeon X1950XT is still good enough for even a game like CoD4 paired up with a S939 system.

I know some of you might be thinking, "Easy for you to say, Joe; you run a HD 4870." That might be true, but this does not acknowledge the fact that I (unlike many, even in our group here) spend so much time testing, if only to find out for myself what the real possibilities are (or to find problems and then find solutions to these problems). My HD 4870 will likely be the last video card I buy for a while, even when I eventually transition to a new platform (May 2010 is my current projection). Why be so bold as to declare this? It's simple: I don't think there will be any game out there which will demand a more powerful card than the HD 4870.

(If the next great Formula One simulation requires a new system sooner than May 2010, though, I reserve the right to change my mind.)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bogeyone001* 
so i think i have just hit a wall..

max htt=350
max ram= 240
max hypertransport=1300
max cpu=2800

but when i combine these i cant get it stable.

its better at least orthos doesnt fail right away but it still does

Bogeyone, you won't be able to run most of those settings together without running into issues (as what you just described above). In most cases you won't be able to run the max memory frequency speed with your processor OC. Start off with overclocking your processor then tweak your memory later on. When it comes to AMD processors, cpu speed is the king. It's nice to know that your chipset is capable of 350HTT. That is pretty high.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Gogar suggests you should try:

CPU = 8x350 = 2800
Mem = 200:133 = DDR 431
HT = 3x350 = 1050

EDIT: If after doing this, your RAM is reading DDR 466 which it may depending on the chipset, instead try 200:125 (which you should have since it is DFI).


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Gogar suggests you should try:

CPU = 8x350 = 2800
Mem = 200:133 = DDR 431
HT = 3x350 = 1050

EDIT: If after doing this, your RAM is reading DDR 466 which it may depending on the chipset, instead try 200:125 (which you should have since it is DFI).


i couldnt even boot with that.. it went to windows logo and then blue screened me or nothing then restarted.

so i went back to my settings and loaded optimized defaults now im trying over again.
right now im at 10x280
ldtx3
dram 150


----------



## N2Gaming

this could have been a good deal http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=200261681920


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bogeyone001* 
i couldnt even boot with that.. it went to windows logo and then blue screened me or nothing then restarted.

so i went back to my settings and loaded optimized defaults now im trying over again.
right now im at 10x280
ldtx3
dram 150

Bogeyone, more than likely because you're trying to overclock your memory with a processor overclock. Try what I suggested in my previous post. Keep the memory frequency below the factory speed for now until you've gotten a stable processor overclock. If you keep booting into Windows with an unstable overclock then you risk the chance of running into data corruption.

Hope that helps


----------



## txtmstrjoe

The best way to use Gogar's AMD OC Optimizer is to load your tested maximums and then test the various permutations for stability.

It's rare when the max of any two or three will yield the optimum combination. Not only that, but you also have to likely do tweaks to voltages and timings as well after plugging in the numbers that Gogar provides.


----------



## pez

Well said txtmstr







. So I'm at about 95% assurance







. I'm going to be excited to run cod4 w/o lag on full settins on 1280x1024







.


----------



## Bogeyone001

ok so its stable with just a cpu overclock at 2.8 GHz..

now what?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Arg, I need to find my stable 3Ghz OC but here is my 3.2Ghz OC at 1.475 volts(not sure if it's Orthos stable or not):



















Joe, I've always enjoyed reading these guides, perhaps we can add these to our knowledgebase: 
http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...ing-guide.html
http://www.overclock.net/faqs/31782-...pu-memory.html
http://icrontic.com/articles/a64_overclocking_theory


did you ever get it stable at 3.2?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bogeyone001*


ok so its stable with just a cpu overclock at 2.8 GHz..

now what?


 If your cpu hit a wall at 2.8 then that's prob all your gonna sqweez outa it. what is the percentage of your overclock sp. 15%, 20%, 25%, I have a personal rule of thumb. any overclock stable at 25% is good enough for me. that's probably becuase I have not been able to achieve much better.







what is your motherboards max fsb?

here is a ddr800 deal just pay shipping.
Free after rebate New 2x512 mb Ram Tigerdirect Ballistix http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-Details.asp?EdpNo=3201208&sku=C19-6020&SRCCODE=WEM1729C&cm_mmc=Email-_-Main-_-WEM1729-_-compo & this model free too http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-Details.asp?EdpNo=1558867&sku=C19-4326&SRCCODE=WEM1729C&cm_mmc=Email-_-Main-_-WEM1729-_-compo cant beet that. does any one know if either of these is any good ?


----------



## Blitz6804

N2Gaming: As much as we appreciate deals, most people here are not running DDR2-compatible rigs. And no, you cannot red vegetable such a deal as free RAM. Furthermore, it would be nice if you edited your posts or wrote them in note pad and pasted them over on OCN rather than triple-posting.

And regards your question to Bogeyone001: He is using his stock multiplier. 280/200 = 140% for a 40% overclock.


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
N2Gaming: As much as we appreciate deals, most people here are not running DDR2-compatible rigs. And no, you cannot red vegetable such a deal as free RAM. Furthermore, it would be nice if you edited your posts or wrote them in note pad and pasted them over on OCN rather than triple-posting.

And regards your question to Bogeyone001: He is using his stock multiplier. 280/200 = 140% for a 40% overclock.

thank you for answering that blitz







i was away working..

and i think i might just leave my overclock down for now till i can get more info on how to tweak for a 2.8 with ram oc as well or just higher than 2.8 cpu only

right now im running and its been stable since i left earlier(about 2 hours) at least with this i can oc my ram
330x8=2660
ht link=1320
ram =ddr 480


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


did you ever get it stable at 3.2?


N2Gaming, within 5 minutes of my Orthos testing my processor was hitting close to 70C. Apparently my XP-90C was not up to the task for 1.475volts. So I left it at 3Ghz at 1.375 which reads 1.34volts in the BIOS, Coretemp and Everest. I may try again in the future but a new cooler will have to purchased.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bogeyone001*


.
and i think i might just leave my overclock down for now till i can get more info on how to tweak for a 2.8 with ram oc as well or just higher than 2.8 cpu only

right now im running and its been stable since i left earlier(about 2 hours) at least with this i can oc my ram
330x8=2660
ht link=1320
ram =ddr 480


Bogeyone001, as I said earlier CPU speed is the king when it comes to AMD processors. You're really not sacrificing a whole lot if you do not overclock your memory. Yes the higher memory frequency will provide some added bandwidth but at what cost and will it be noticeable? In my opinion 2800mhz looks better then 2600mhz









Keep pushing that processor

Good luck


----------



## Bogeyone001

ok will do .. but i can only push it to 2.8 after that i have no idea ?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, within 5 minutes of my Orthos testing my processor was hitting close to 70C. Apparently my XP-90C was not up to the task for 1.475volts. So I left it at 3Ghz at 1.375 which reads 1.34volts in the BIOS, Coretemp and Everest. I may try again in the future but a new cooler will have to purchased.

Bogeyone001, as I said earlier CPU speed is the king when it comes to AMD processors. You're really not sacrificing a whole lot if you do not overclock your memory. Yes the higher memory frequency will provide some added bandwidth but at what cost and will it be noticeable? In my opinion 2800mhz looks better then 2600mhz









Keep pushing that processor

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

One of the cardinal rules in overclocking is "Your mileage may vary." In other words, just because someone's CPU was able to hit a certain speed never means that yours will get within sniffing distance.

Having said that, it seems you've been thorough with your testing. 2.8 GHz is quite good for a S939 CPU. 3.0GHz S939 chips are definitely the rare exceptions rather than the rule, so try to curb any disappointment you might be feeling. If 2.8 GHz is your chip's limit given your current system configuration (including cooling equipment), then that's all you'll get. To push and squeeze even more from your CPU will likely entail considerable expense and work, in my opinion (i.e., you'll likely need at least a top-tier water-cooling system to go further, and these aren't cheap).


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
One of the cardinal rules in overclocking is "Your mileage may vary." In other words, just because someone's CPU was able to hit a certain speed never means that yours will get within sniffing distance.

Having said that, it seems you've been thorough with your testing. 2.8 GHz is quite good for a S939 CPU. 3.0GHz S939 chips are definitely the rare exceptions rather than the rule, so try to curb any disappointment you might be feeling. If 2.8 GHz is your chip's limit given your current system configuration (including cooling equipment), then that's all you'll get. To push and squeeze even more from your CPU will likely entail considerable expense and work, in my opinion (i.e., you'll likely need at least a top-tier water-cooling system to go further, and these aren't cheap).

want new Opty chip from Joe....must save the dollars


----------



## Blitz6804

There is absolutely nothing wrong with 2.8 GHz Bogey. If you notice, while Joe and I both can suicide much higher, we both ran 2.8 GHz for our 24/7 speeds. Not getting your RAM that fast is not a very big issue; if you cannot get the RAM faster, run it tighter! My RAM could not run past DDR 420 on my board (the same RAM that Pioneer got up to DDR 535; proving the "your mileage may vary" mantra) so I ran it tighter than spec. My Mushkin Redlines, since I was using 4 GB, could not run at DDR 500. I dropped them to DDR 400, but at the sub-stock 2-3-2-6 rather than stock 3-3-2-8. Timing outweigh raw speed in AMDs; considerable testing is often required to find the best way to run your computer.

Quod erat demonstrandum.


----------



## Pest

Don't worry Bogey, I think I'm at my cpu max also.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bogeyone001* 
ok will do .. but i can only push it to 2.8 after that i have no idea ?

Bogeyone, are you at least 8 hours Orthos stable at that overclock? Can you share some CPU-Z screenshots of that OC? Perhaps maybe we can provide a few more tweaks to go together with your overclock.

Good luck


----------



## Bogeyone001

more than a day stable actually and yes i will get some cpuz shots for ya
no worries guys i am not dissappointed..
i am happy with a 40% overclock i just wanted to push it further if i could

EDIT: ok so i went to go change it back to 2.8 GHz and now something is messed up
it wouldnt go into the bios so i reset the cmos 
now it went to the logo screen and stayed
tried to restart and then the mobo shows me 3 red lights and keeps beeping at me and does nothing'
im looking up what could be wrong now

edit:: fixed the problem was loose ram.. not sure how that happened


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, just to be safe I would still replace the cap that is dinged up. It's probably fine but if it was punctured in any before it was sold then that could mean bad news for later on. Especially if you're during full load tests.
Glad it's working










I am in the process of removing the caps from the scratched expert to install on the non-scratched expert. I noticed the caps get pretty hot while removing the solder, definitely more than 105C. It's not easy to remove them because there is a metal sleeve that goes from the front side of the board through to the back side with the cap leads soldered inside the sleeves. I'm wondering if the excessive heat is ruining the caps from removing them. Does any one know if this will ruin the caps? Thanks









Edit: I managed to finish the task of replacing 3 caps on the expert. sheezy wipes forehead. I'm happy to say she's still alive. Right now I have it oc'd @2.5 and I'm working on getting it stable with the lowest voltage possible. Then I'll burn it in with that oc once stable. After burn in, I'll try to push it some more with all the help I can get. I think I'll use the 2 gig ram from my sli dr rig to use for testing. I'm anxious to see what this board can do with my 3500+ Venice for now.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Alright guys, I've got a bit of sad news







. My Manchester is gone







. Seems it ran a bit too hot for a bit too long







. Anybody wanna trade me a single core for a dual core of any speed? Single core doesn't cut it evidentally for TV viewing







.


----------



## Choggs396

OK, a little update here (for those who may be interested)....

My 939 rig is coming a little closer to being implemented. I picked up an LCBQE stepping Opty 165 off Ebay for 70 bucks. I have 4x512MB Crucial Ballistix DDR500, an Asus A8R-MVP motherboard, plus an X1800XT and X1800 Crossfire soon to come. I have a spare PSU, HDD, and DVD laying around here. I'm going to pick up a case and CPU cooler soon as well. Hope to get it all together and start overclocking like mad. I also have a 3700+ Sandy that I'd like to push to the limits also.

This is kind of a "just for fun" rig, and I plan on making that way.







Hopefully everything will come together nicely so I can report to you experts here on my OC'ing ventures!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Choggs396*


OK, a little update here (for those who may be interested)....

My 939 rig is coming a little closer to being implemented. I picked up an LCBQE stepping Opty 165 off Ebay for 70 bucks. I have 4x512MB Crucial Ballistix DDR500, an Asus A8R-MVP motherboard, plus an X1800XT and X1800 Crossfire soon to come. I have a spare PSU, HDD, and DVD laying around here. I'm going to pick up a case and CPU cooler soon as well. Hope to get it all together and start overclocking like mad. I also have a 3700+ Sandy that I'd like to push to the limits also.

This is kind of a "just for fun" rig, and I plan on making that way.







Hopefully everything will come together nicely so I can report to you experts here on my OC'ing ventures!


Sweet! Can't wait to see what you get going with it. Hey wait a minute, you bought that board from XAslanX or whatever his name is.....I wanted that board







. Just kidding....sounds like a pretty nice higher end (for its time) 939 rig! I for one am looking forward to your results







.


----------



## stn0092

Here's my 939:

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=433252


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Welcome aboard the S939 Express, stn0092.







We're glad to have you join us on our journey.









So sorry to hear about your dead Manchester, pio.









Choggs396, I too look forward to you sharing your adventures with your Crossfire S939er. You'll be one of a very select group, as I believe there are so few of us here who have experience OCing with something other than an nF4-chipset motherboard.


----------



## GuardianOdin

stn0092: Welcome! This is a great group of folks here and we are always willing to help.

Pio: a moment of silence for the manny.

Choggs: Looking forward to what that Opty can do


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Alright guys, I've got a bit of sad news







. My Manchester is gone







. Seems it ran a bit too hot for a bit too long







. Anybody wanna trade me a single core for a dual core of any speed? Single core doesn't cut it evidentally for TV viewing







.

Pioneerisloud, I'm sorry to hear that. That had to make your heart stop for just a second huh?

*Choggs396,* good job coming up on that Opty 165! Do you know if it's alive yet?

stn0092, welcome !

Quote:


Originally Posted by *stn0092* 
Here's my 939:

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=433252

Hey stn0092, Is your system stable with your rated fsb at 1100?


----------



## N2Gaming

sorry


----------



## Choggs396

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Choggs396, I too look forward to you sharing your adventures with your Crossfire S939er. You'll be one of a very select group, as I believe there are so few of us here who have experiencing OCing with something other than an nF4-chipset motherboard.









Yeah, I see the majority of you 939'ers have nF4 chipsets. I've heard the A8R-MVP with the RD480 northbridge has had some excellent OC'ing results though. Take this AnandTech review, for example. So I'm gonna test the waters a little with this board, especially since it'll allow me to run Crossfire.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
*Choggs396,* good job coming up on that Opty 165! Do you know if it's alive yet?

Sadly, no.







I haven't tested it out yet.


----------



## GuardianOdin

looking at that review Choggs, you should be able to hit a higher HT than 325. I'm sure the CPU they used inhibited their results.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Yes it did make my heart stop. And sadly enough, I honestly don't really know what to do about this situation either. A single core CPU won't cut it (as my other TV computer well shows), and to buy a dual core is nearly impossible these days (especially now that my wages are being garnished), so I'm up a certain creek without a paddle ATM







. Oh well, I suppose something will turn up eventually perhaps. Or I'll sell it with the single core and the TV, and just have one TV in the house







. That would work I suppose.

Note to self:
Always look for the positive in things







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Dang, pio, if I had any clairvoyance I would have sent that X2 3600 Manchester to you along with the rest of the package. (Ought to be there by the weekend, by the way.)

It's not part of our "trade," but if you need a reminder it's still here waiting for you.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Dang, pio, if I had any clairvoyance I would have sent that X2 3600 Manchester to you along with the rest of the package. (Ought to be there by the weekend, by the way.)

It's not part of our "trade," but if you need a reminder it's still here waiting for you.









I will of course remember that







. I just don't currently have the funds available, and don't honestly know when they will become available. So I couldn't possibly accept until I can figure that out. Once I do though, you've DEFINITELY got a buyer on your hands







.

EDIT:
Time for Pio to go to bed says froggy. So if you wish to discuss this further joe, PM me and I will return it when I awake.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Dang, pio, if I had any clairvoyance I would have sent that X2 3600 Manchester to you along with the rest of the package. (Ought to be there by the weekend, by the way.)

It's not part of our "trade," but if you need a reminder it's still here waiting for you.









speaking of mail, I just got my order in from www.eonprod.com for some nice comic book boards. I'll be starting Sat or Sunday with the Vader


----------



## Blitz6804

Comics with the Vader? Did I miss something? I am sorry to hear about the Manny dieing Pioneer, I am hoping upon hope that you are incorrect and that it is not dead. Why do you think it is dead? Does your P4 have HT? If so, swap that and the Manny and replace the Manny with a single then? Or were both your HTPCs to begin with?

Welcome to the club stn0092! I am uploading the new roster right now.


----------



## Bogeyone001

Hey welcome to the group

bummer on the manchester pioneer


----------



## pez

Haha woot guyz. All I have to to do is wait for paypal to get the money from my bank account and then I'll be set to order my new card. One small question that slipped my mind. When I go SLI my board will be x8/x8 instead of just one slot at x16. Would I still see a performance increase even from the x8/x8? Or would that run worse than just a single card?


----------



## N2Gaming

I believe even though you'de be 8x8 w/sli the spd of the two is the same as 1 x 16 however when you have two gpu's the spd should increse as well as the memory. I'm sure you'll find a ton of information on this topic if you google it.









Pioneer, do you use a tv capture card?


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I believe even though you'de be 8x8 w/sli the spd of the two is the same as 1 x 16 however when you have two gpu's the spd should increse as well as the memory. I'm sure you'll find a ton of information on this topic if you google it.









Pioneer, do you use a tv capture card?

Yeah, I did and people said it would be better to just get a single card which is why I started looking at a better card. UGH lol.


----------



## N2Gaming

I went to Nvidia to see what I could find out because I'm interested in sli performance as well. I found this link. It's another forum based on Nvidia
sli technology. Maybe you can find answers to all of your questions. This will eliminate the guess work like what if's based on here say or what some one told you. Let us know if you find any thing out. I know I don't speak for the group as whole but my sli knowledge is about as good as my overclock knowledge, very limited. This is the best help I can offer. Sorry it's not personal experiance but I'm pretty sure you'll find all the sli experience at this link







http://www.slizone.com/content/slizone/clubsli.html

Edit: Oh no I just tried to register with them and turns out you have to have sli enabled to be a member. what a crock of $#(& Sorry for the misleading info


----------



## Blitz6804

Similar to processing, if your game supports SLI, you will have better results from two lesser cards than one monolithic card; if your game does not support SLI, you will have better results from one monolithic card.

Better still would likely be single-slot solutions. All you need is the money...


----------



## pez

Ugh, I'll have to do the registration and such later. +rep for the help though







.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Similar to processing, if your game supports SLI, you will have better results from two lesser cards than one monolithic card; if your game does not support SLI, you will have better results from one monolithic card.

Better still would likely be single-slot solutions. All you need is the money...

Yeah, I put $175 into my paypal. So I'm waiting for the HD4830's and hopefully it'll make the HD4850's drop a bit. That's my goal.


----------



## Blitz6804

You have an SLI board, crossfire is not an option for you. Take heart, an HD 4850 X2 is planned.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Ugh, I'll have to do the registration and such later. +rep for the help though







.


Well thanks for rep. I don't feel I deserve it as I have just found out you have to have an sli enable rig to register with them. So I'll sli one of my rigs and then join so I don't feel bad about receiving the rep. Then I'll post any pertinent info with regards to x16 or x8 + x8.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes, bandwidth is slower on 8x than 16x. However, since so few cards saturate the bandwidth anyway, it should not matter. Further, the added processing power of the second core would outweigh the lost bandwidth.


----------



## HothBase

Ah, had some trouble with my PC just now...
Flashing motherboard power LEDs and stuff... This was after I rearranged my cable-management and some other stuff.
I managed to fix it by disconnecting all the cables and reconnecting them again though.
Also, I'm now done with my first "case mod", dunno if I'm allowed to call it that, it's no big deal really.
I now have a proper air intake though (yay).









I'm gonna upload some pictures tomorrow, it's already past midnight here.
Goodnight.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Yes, bandwidth is slower on 8x than 16x. However, since so few cards saturate the bandwidth anyway, it should not matter. Further, the added processing power of the second core would outweigh the lost bandwidth.

Oh, I knew I couldn't XFire, bnut I was saying that I was going to try and get a HD4850 so I wouldn't need to worry about SLI. I had SLI when I first got my computer (2x6600LE's) LOL. But for the games back then, they ran awesome. Haha, I could just put My 6600LE in there and say I have an SLI rig lol.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Just to put my own two cents in, I personally prefer to get the best single card over any multi-GPU solution. Why? Well, one card will always use less power than multiple cards; one card will always produce less heat; one card at a given performance level will almost always be cheaper than multiple lesser cards to get to that same performance level; one card will almost always be less vulnerable to various niggling issues vis-a-vis compatibility, driver stability, and other complications that are almost inherent in multi-GPU setups.

I prefer the simplest, most direct, and most efficient solution available. Why needlessly complicate things, you know?
 






It's something I try to apply in most facets of my own life, and it extends to my hardware habits as well.


----------



## N2Gaming

WOW txtmastrjoe you sure have a way of summin things up it a tightly rapped nut shell. I just spent the last hour messing with jumpers for my sli dr board. what a head paine! I have a new found appriciation for the expert board, no sli jumper pins. "yeah" It's a good thing the sli dr board comes with an extra 3 jumper pins cause two of them got ruined during the process. http://www.overclock.net/album.php?a...pictureid=2375 Just some facts about my rig and sli findings *specifically for pez* with regular 6600 256mb card 3dmark03 score was under 5k. with 8600 gts 512mb 3dmark03 score was under 17k. with 2 x 8600 gts 512mb ea. 3dmark03 score was under 30k. so I did notice a significant jump running 3dmark03 while sli'd. wether it will make a diff in gaming I don't know. now off to join sli forum for further knowledge and experiance.


----------



## thlnk3r

Welcome to the club stn0092









Choggs, I look forward to your OC'ing results with the 165

Pio, Sorry to hear the bad news









N2Gaming, I can tell you the difference between 2x versus 16x (on a single card) is almost a one thousand point difference in 3DMark06. Not to mention a lot of my games magically ran smoother after the switch from 2x









Good luck guys!


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Just to put my own two cents in, I personally prefer to get the best single card over any multi-GPU solution. Why? Well, one card will always use less power than multiple cards; one card will always produce less heat; one card at a given performance level will almost always be cheaper than multiple lesser cards to get to that same performance level; one card will almost always be less vulnerable to various niggling issues vis-a-vis compatibility, driver stability, and other complications that are almost inherent in multi-GPU setups.

I prefer the simplest, most direct, and most efficient solution available. Why needlessly complicate things, you know?







It's something I try to apply in most facets of my own life, and it extends to my hardware habits as well.









N2 is right, you do have a good way to sum things up and give me confirmation that I'm making somewhat of a right choice







. I'm pretty set on an ATI card. It's funny, I figured when I had $175 to waste, I would go straight for the best I could get, but instead I keep wanting an ATI card, no matter how much the charts tell me the 8800/9800GT is for the same price. Guess that's why I'll wait for the HD4830








. Not too much, but not really cheap either. Kinda a midway satisfaction.


----------



## N2Gaming

I edited my last posting for the following, I wish I had 2x8800gts but I have 2x8600gts







any way here is my 3dmark06 score http://www.overclock.net/album.php?a...pictureid=2373 For some reason my cpu test one had 0 fps and cpu test 2 had 1-0 fps. Does this mean I have a problem with my system or is this normal for my system and cpu configuration with 3dmark06?


----------



## Blitz6804

Absolutely normal. You must be in excess of 3.0 GHz with a dual core to break 1 FPS reliably on the second test. You cannot get over 1 FPS reliably {on the first} with a dual core until about 3.3 GHz or so. At least, with AMD processors. 3DMark06 heavily favors Core2.


----------



## N2Gaming

thanks, I was not sure if I ruined my opty 180 that time I bent the pins and had perform surgery on it.







Now that I think of it I should have tried to snap off a few pics of the bent pins. oh well.

Update on the caps I replaced on the expert. here are some pictures of the caps I replaced. http://www.overclock.net/album.php?a...pictureid=2377 & http://www.overclock.net/album.php?a...pictureid=2376 So far I was unable to get a stable overclock at 2.5 with fsb @250 so I dropped it to 240 and it was fine then I made some changes to voltage mem timings etc. and it became unstable. after that I called it a night or moning since it was well into 3am


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Comics with the Vader? Did I miss something? I am sorry to hear about the Manny dieing Pioneer, I am hoping upon hope that you are incorrect and that it is not dead. Why do you think it is dead? Does your P4 have HT? If so, swap that and the Manny and replace the Manny with a single then? Or were both your HTPCs to begin with?

Welcome to the club stn0092! I am uploading the new roster right now.


Well Blitz, the P4 with HT is my second HTPC build. And that processor does NOT cut it. Hence why I know a single core Athlon probably won't cut it either. I haven't actually TESTED this theory, but its a pretty good hunch since the P4 is clocked at 3.60GHz currently (and has 2GB of RAM, everything else is the same as what WAS in the X2 build).

It's not DEAD DEAD persay....it's just unstable. Won't even boot into Windows...even at sub stock speeds. RAM tests out fine, everything's fine with the single core CPU installed. That CPU just won't go stable (and I'm trying for 1.8GHz mind you). Hence why I know its the CPU.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I believe even though you'de be 8x8 w/sli the spd of the two is the same as 1 x 16 however when you have two gpu's the spd should increse as well as the memory. I'm sure you'll find a ton of information on this topic if you google it.









Pioneer, do you use a tv capture card?


Yes I use a Leadtek capture card. WinFast Home Cinema or something along those lines. They work GREAT, but you NEED an actual dual core and AT LEAST 2GB of RAM to use them effeciently it seems. Its a bummer since the P4 can't pull it off....I know the single core Athlon won't.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Yes I use a Leadtek capture card. WinFast Home Cinema or something along those lines. They work GREAT, but you NEED an actual dual core and AT LEAST 2GB of RAM to use them effeciently it seems. Its a bummer since the P4 can't pull it off....I know the single core Athlon won't.


thank you. I have a opty 180 that's duel core and I have an am2 x2 5400+BE that I would like to make a pc home theature with. the 5400+ I have overclocked at 3.2ghz stable. so would it be better off with 4 or 8 gig of ram or is 2 gig just fine.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


thank you. I have a opty 180 that's duel core and I have an am2 x2 5400+BE that I would like to make a pc home theature with. the 5400+ I have overclocked at 3.2ghz stable. so would it be better off with 4 or 8 gig of ram or is 2 gig just fine.


For TV viewing...here's a low down of what you need (even for High Def):

Dual core (preferrably AMD, but that's just me) @ 2.2-2.4GHz (any more is unnecessary and does NOTHING)
2GB memory (that's MORE than enough RAM, even in Vista...but 4GB would be nice)
LOTS OF HARD DRIVE ROOM
Low end HD3xxx series GPU or LOW END HD4xxx GPU. The low end ones do HD material just fine. I have a HD3450 (paid $9.99 for it after rebates) in mine.
The extra clock speeds do NOTHING for TV viewing. The goal in building a great TV machine...run it slower but SILENT. And by silent, I mean undervolt it and if possible, run it passive (or near passive)!

EDIT:
Oh yeah, and of course a capture card, lol. I bought the Leadtek WinFast Cinema (roughly $69.99 on newegg)...and it works GREAT.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


For TV viewing...here's a low down of what you need (even for High Def):

Dual core (preferrably AMD, but that's just me) @ 2.2-2.4GHz (any more is unnecessary and does NOTHING)
2GB memory (that's MORE than enough RAM, even in Vista...but 4GB would be nice)
LOTS OF HARD DRIVE ROOM
Low end HD3xxx series GPU or LOW END HD4xxx GPU. The low end ones do HD material just fine. I have a HD3450 (paid $9.99 for it after rebates) in mine.
The extra clock speeds do NOTHING for TV viewing. The goal in building a great TV machine...run it slower but SILENT. And by silent, I mean undervolt it and if possible, run it passive (or near passive)!

EDIT:
Oh yeah, and of course a capture card, lol. I bought the Leadtek WinFast Cinema (roughly $69.99 on newegg)...and it works GREAT.


Ok so if I understand you correctly you are running a ati video card and a leadtek capture card. Do you also use this for gaming and other pc related activities or just as a stand alone pc for tv


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Ok so if I understand you correctly you are running a ati video card and a leadtek capture card. Do you also use this for gaming and other pc related activities or just as a stand alone pc for tv










I only use this as a TV machine. It'll do LIGHT gaming just fine. But it won't play Crysis well (I tried)...it pulls off all LOW settings just fine.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I only use this as a TV machine. It'll do LIGHT gaming just fine. But it won't play Crysis well (I tried)...it pulls off all LOW settings just fine.

I see. So it is possible to have tv pc that will game but it requires the cpu and video card to be able to handle the games you intend to play is this correct? The reason I'm asking so many questions about this toppic is becuase I'm thinking of turning my m2n32 sli delux rig into a home entertainment system to use as a dvr, gamer all in one type of machine. Unless it's not possible due to hardware/software conflicts or something of the sort.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I see. So it is possible to have tv pc that will game but it requires the cpu and video card to be able to handle the games you intend to play is this correct? The reason I'm asking so many questions about this toppic is becuase I'm thinking of turning my m2n32 sli delux rig into a home entertainment system to use as a dvr, gamer all in one type of machine. Unless it's not possible due to hardware/software conflicts or something of the sort.

I don't see any reason why that wouldn't work. A lot of people do that







. At that point it really depends on the resolution your monitor (TV) can handle. If you're on a standard definition TV (such as myself)...that's 480i/p, which means 640x480 resolution. That's EASY to game well on with just about any video card (8600GT can pull that off in Crysis with EASE). If you're on a high definition set (720p/i or 1080), then you'll obviously need a higher clocked CPU and a better GPU.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


N2 is right, you do have a good way to sum things up and give me confirmation that I'm making somewhat of a right choice







. I'm pretty set on an ATI card. It's funny, I figured when I had $175 to waste, I would go straight for the best I could get, but instead I keep wanting an ATI card, no matter how much the charts tell me the 8800/9800GT is for the same price. Guess that's why I'll wait for the HD4830







. Not too much, but not really cheap either. Kinda a midway satisfaction.


pez, $175.00 can get you a pretty good card these days.

A quick look on NewEgg shows that, given pricing today (10 October 2008), cards in your budget range used to be just below what used to be top-tier cards. Given the fact that hardware is still quite a bit ahead of the software (games), I believe you have pretty good choices available in your price range. In fact, a few months ago, some of these cards were top-of-the-line. They represent excellent value.

For example, on the ATi side of the street, you can get an HD 4850 for just about your stated budget limit. If you want better value (you get a lesser card but win in the bang-for-the-buck stakes) in this budget range, consider getting an HD 3870 for circa $15.00 - $20.00 less.

(As an aside, I wish I had my CFX3200-DR ready for testing duties right now, if only to illustrate the difference between the HD 3870 and the HD 4850. I'd like to know just how much performance you leave untapped with the HD 4850 in comparison to its elder sister.)

nVidia isn't lacking in options, either. Some 9800 GTXs are right at the limit of your budget. This 9800 GT Superclocked is, in my opinion, one of the best available options here (from either ATi or nVidia).

Whatever you choose, though, pez, I hope you have great fun with it! I do know for sure that it's hard to lose out with the plethora of options you have available.









In fact, I feel bad because I know I overpaid with this HD 4870 I run.







I should have been more patient and waited.

Oh well...


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


pez, $175.00 can get you a pretty good card these days.

A quick look on NewEgg shows that, given pricing today (10 October 2008), cards in your budget range used to be just below what used to be top-tier cards. Given the fact that hardware is still quite a bit ahead of the software (games), I believe you have pretty good choices available in your price range. In fact, a few months ago, some of these cards were top-of-the-line. They represent excellent value.

For example, on the ATi side of the street, you can get an HD 4850 for just about your stated budget limit. If you want better value (you get a lesser card but win in the bang-for-the-buck stakes) in this budget range, consider getting an HD 3870 for circa $15.00 - $20.00 less.

(As an aside, I wish I had my CFX3200-DR ready for testing duties right now, if only to illustrate the difference between the HD 3870 and the HD 4850. I'd like to know just how much performance you leave untapped with the HD 4850 in comparison to its elder sister.)

nVidia isn't lacking in options, either. Some 9800 GTXs are right at the limit of your budget. This 9800 GT Superclocked is, in my opinion, one of the best available options here (from either ATi or nVidia).

Whatever you choose, though, pez, I hope you have great fun with it! I do know for sure that it's hard to lose out with the plethora of options you have available.









In fact, I feel bad because I know I overpaid with this HD 4870 I run.







I should have been more patient and waited.

Oh well...










Yeah, I'm not worried about overpaying. If I pay $135 for a 9800GT and I'm really happy with it, I wouldn't be dissapointed if the prices dropped the next day by $20. But it really is hard to choose







.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I personally think you're going to see a price drop with ANY video card. No matter what price you can get one at. For example, my 8800GTS 512 was $275 when I bought it. That was about 6 months ago, and now they're $100 from eVGA's B-Stock! I am a little disappointed, but I am still MORE than happy with my purchase. I'd still be stuck on an 8600GTS if I was worried so much about it.

If you've got the money and want the performance NOW....then buy it NOW.


----------



## pez

Yeah, paypal said my transfer is supposed to clear by the 22nd. When I see those HD4830 benchies, and if they're good, I'm going to get one the day they hit newegg.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I don't see any reason why that wouldn't work. A lot of people do that







. At that point it really depends on the resolution your monitor (TV) can handle. If you're on a standard definition TV (such as myself)...that's 480i/p, which means 640x480 resolution. That's EASY to game well on with just about any video card (8600GT can pull that off in Crysis with EASE). If you're on a high definition set (720p/i or 1080), then you'll obviously need a higher clocked CPU and a better GPU.

Yep hi def for sure. the max res I can get on this tv http://www.overclock.net/album.php?a...pictureid=2374 is 1920 by 1080 and the 8600 I have will display hi def just fine but as far as gaming goes I have to lower the res and so on. I'll probably get the best nvidia card I can afford on ebay or something. maybe someone who switches from nvidia to ati to run cross fire will sell a 9800gtx and I'll be right there to snatch it up







I'm curriouse if you know any thing about cctv systems as well. I only have amd systems and I read some reviews about cctv capture cards. Mostly all the reviews usually say make sure you have an intell based system for stability. do you know anything about this or am I barking up the wrong tree? Thanks for everything.


----------



## Blitz6804

Something to consider N2Gaming:

It is proven fact, not just an opinion from a fanboy, that Avivo makes TV and Movie programs more enjoyable. Ask anyone, ATI or nVidia fanboy, recent converts, or whoever, when using the PC as a TV source, nVidia's color always look a touch, flat. If you want the better gaming, go nVidia; you want a better TV, go ATI.

pez: Joe has made a slight oversight. While a 4850 will set you back as little as $134 after MIR on Newegg (HIS; reference cooler), 3870s are going for the insane price of $70 after MIR on the same (Powercolor; ZEROtherm). This is $10 cheaper than I paid for each of my 3850s some 3 months ago or so.

(For the record, the cheapest 4870 I could find was $200 after MIR. I wonder if it is worth the $66 over the 4850.)


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Something to consider N2Gaming:

It is proven fact, not just an opinion from a fanboy, that Avivo makes TV and Movie programs more enjoyable. Ask anyone, ATI or nVidia fanboy, recent converts, or whoever, when using the PC as a TV source, nVidia's color always look a touch, flat. If you want the better gaming, go nVidia; you want a better TV, go ATI.

pez: Joe has made a slight oversight. While a 4850 will set you back as little as $134 after MIR on Newegg (HIS; reference cooler), 3870s are going for the insane price of $70 after MIR on the same (Powercolor; ZEROtherm). This is $10 cheaper than I paid for each of my 3850s some 3 months ago or so.

*(For the record, the cheapest 4870 I could find was $200 after MIR. I wonder if it is worth the $66 over the 4850.)*

I've been wondering that myself as I'm looking to upgrade my GPU soon.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Something to consider N2Gaming:when using the PC as a TV source, nVidia's color always look a touch, flat. If you want the better gaming, go nVidia; you want a better TV, go ATI.

yeah I want my cake and eat it too. oh wait like that commercial I hear all the time. I want to go downtown and to the airport at the same time...







I guess it's either gaming or dvr but not both if I'm looking for flawless performance. maybe A higher end ATI card will prvide both???


----------



## Blitz6804

That is highly probable. I have not tried a 48xx yet, but I have done extensive testing comparing my 3850 to others' 8800 GTs. It seems that 2x3850 gives about the same FPS. On the other hand, looking at screenshots between the two, mine looks a touch more vibrant. I have not compared DVDs between the two; I will likely try that next time I visit my dad. (He has 2x8800 GT; blows my graphics out of the water.)


----------



## pez

Yeah, I'm a slight believer in buying what suits you and your needs, but I'm also a believer in getting the best performance out of whatever product I buy. I'm a cheap person that's after performance I guess you could say, hence, I'm still on socket 939







.

BTW: Most of the 3870's are GDDR3 :/ I heard that it's basically a 512MB 3850 when it's like that.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Yeah, paypal said my transfer is supposed to clear by the 22nd. When I see those HD4830 benchies, and if they're good, I'm going to get one the day they hit newegg.


Hey pez, I just came over here from sli club forum and found out some interesting tid bits regarding gpu's resolutions and memory bandwith. here is a copy n paste from over their and a link to the thread if you can view with out joining. worth a try. http://forums.slizone.com/index.php?...ic=24853&st=20

QUOTE (ChrisRay @ Jul 12 2008, 04:08 PM) 
I think its mostly because review sites are trying to compare to ATI hardware. And when you consider the vast difference in what Nvidia and ATI users use when it comes to high quality image settings. I think its a rather futile effort. I think most Nvidia users will/should aim for base 16x CSAA performance. Its the best perf/quality mode that exists on Nvidia hardware. And 16xQ being the high end, I point this out mainly because I want people to know that 512 megs can be a limitation. If you game @ 1600x1200 and lower and mostly use 16xCSAA you probably wont have much probles with existing games. As the resolution increases the problem with increase as the framebuffer usage increases,

When I did my 9800GX2 and 9800GTX Standard comparisons I tried to point out that 512 megs could be a bottleneck in some cases ((Like the example I used)) but I apparently was not as clear as I should have been because alot of people came back and asked me why they couldnt run the same settings as their old 8800GTX SLI setup. And as high end SLI users. Most of us care about high end settings. I wanted to make it more clear this time where these problems could occur. 9800GTX/9800GX2 are GREAT cards provided the memory doesnt run out. But once it does. Their performance plummets and no amount of SLIIng can fix that problem.

Basically. I was just hoping to arm users with better knowledge regarding this issue. And personally this is a very large reason why I think so highly of the GTX 260. Yes I have GTX 280 SLI cards and mostly use those. But I can barely tell the difference 90% of the time between my GTX 260 SLI and GTX 280 SLI configuration. I currently have 1 GTX 260 stored away. Its a hot summer here







The moral of this story is. I have seen a Quad 9800GX2 get over 111 FPS in that same spot at 16xCSAA/16xAF. If your getting 111 FPS. The very first instinct i have as an SLI user is to raise the AA settings to 16xQ or something. But when I turn on 16xQ in these settings it drops from 111 FPS to 3 FPS. And thats just discouraging. All that rendering potential to be bottlenecked by its memory. And I dont want anyone here to think I am downplaying the 9800GTX + or 9800GX2 hardware. They are great cards. Thats why I sent exitios Quad 9800GX2 cards. Because I knew he'd be happy with them. But just that there are certain things they cant do that the 260/280 and 3 way 8800GTX setups can.

Chris

If I was giving awards or badges away the 9800 GTX + or GX2 would get runs 16Q AA at 720p perfectly in general. And there are lot of 720p monitor users worldwide.

GTX 260 with the price drop covers 1600-1920 with slight fps drop vs 280. 280 is there for 1920x1200 and even XHD even for crysis. As a freind pointd out natural mod and crysis and 16x AA work in XHD in Crysis. And with warhead taking many ideas from natural mod thats the crysis expansion covered









I have explained on several forums that the new ATi cards are rather good and if you like ATI then the new cards offer value and performance, but the bit 99% of review sites missed is the superior memory bandwidth of the GTX series and VRAM allows 16x AA and AF at almost any res depending on how may cards you run.

ATi to save cost did the 512 Vram issue that Nvidia did with the 9 series, so if you are going to buy 1920x1200 or XHD then 95% of the cards on the markets are just no good vs the GTX series. Even if ATi or Nvidia do add 1 GIG vram to the 9 or 4 Series it does not solve the memory bandwidth issue at HD with AA/AF.

Even at lower res if you pump up AA?AF mot cards start to stall, the GTX series are the first card that appear note even to notice when AA is on or off!

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/productlist....&subid=1121

A few months ago there would have been 1-2 monitors for XHD on that page, now there are 7, they are beggining to enter mass production and prices will drop just like 1920x1200 did 2 years ago. Once they hit Â£400 or lower alot of people will move to XHD, but unless they have GTX's they are in for a shock.

Some people will say you dont need AA or high AF at XHD. To that I say please view 8-16x AA and 16x AF at XHD vs no AA or AF....

--------------------









QX9650, EVGA 790i Black Pearl, XFX XXX GTX280 Sli, 4GB DDR3, Raptor R0, TJ-109, 128 GB SSD
Using 46" 720p for RTS games and Dell XHD 1600p for everything else!

Crysis WORLD RECORDS DX9/10. What should YOUR FPS be? 

maybe this helps a little when considering the type of resolutions you are considering.


----------



## Blitz6804

Most 3850s are 512 MB. The difference between the GDDR3/4 is minor; it basically equates to a higher theoretical RAM overclock. The big difference between a 3850 and a 3870 is the latter's higher voltage. Higher voltage would permit you to overclock higher. Yes, you can do software, hardware, or BIOS changes to a 3850, but it is not the same. (Despite my increased voltage and slot wattage, I still could not get a 3850 OC stable.)


----------



## Oscuro

Guess what: 939 rig for sale, I might part it out for you guys if need be.


----------



## pez

It lets me view the forums. Thanks for the link n2







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


It lets me view the forums. Thanks for the link n2







.


 your welcome!


----------



## awdrifter

Has anyone de-lidded a Manchester core 4600? Is the IHS soldered? Thanks.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *awdrifter*


Has anyone de-lidded a Manchester core 4600? Is the IHS soldered? Thanks.


I have not. I was wondering how to unlock the multiplier on a cpu. I saw 3dgameman do a demonstration on it once but have not been able to find it since. I fired off an email to him about it and got no response. Oh well I guess he's to bizzay making all that monay monay







. I noticed 2 power supplies in your rig. I was thinking about doing that w/a mod rig and using a really cheap low very low amp psu for case fans and cd, floppy etc. how are you using the two psu's in your rig???


----------



## Blitz6804

Awdrifter, as far as I recall, no 939 CPU is soldered.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *awdrifter*


Has anyone de-lidded a Manchester core 4600? Is the IHS soldered? Thanks.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Awdrifter, as far as I recall, no 939 CPU is soldered.


Correct.

For AMDs, so far as I am aware, only the AM2 Santa Ana Opterons have the IHS soldered on. There may be more AM2 models that have their IHSs soldered on, but this technique of IHS attachment is not used on any S939 CPUs.


----------



## awdrifter

Thanks.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Correct.

For AMDs, so far as I am aware, only the AM2 Santa Ana Opterons have the IHS soldered on. There may be more AM2 models that have their IHSs soldered on, but this technique of IHS attachment is not used on any S939 CPUs.

Is is possible to safely remove the IHS on 939's with out damaging the cpu and if so how is it done???


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes, it is possible N2Gaming. I can tell you how it is not done:

Do not do it after being awake some thirty hours. Do not do it while hungry. Do not do it with unsteady hands. Do not do it if there are any other possible alternatives to doing it. Do not work on it non-stop: if you start getting tired or punchy, walk away for a while. If your arms start hurting, you are trying too hard, and will likely kill the chip. Do not do it without putting the black foam square on the pins, you may bend a few.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Yes, it is possible N2Gaming. I can tell you how it is not done:

Do not do it after being awake some thirty hours. Do not do it while hungry. Do not do it with unsteady hands. Do not do it if there are any other possible alternatives to doing it. Do not work on it non-stop: if you start getting tired or punchy, walk away for a while. If your arms start hurting, you are trying too hard, and will likely kill the chip. Do not do it without putting the black foam square on the pins, you may bend a few.

lol ok so now I know how it is not done. any takers on how it is done???


----------



## Blitz6804

You take a VERY sharp razor. I cannot stress the need for a brand-new, sharp razor. Multiple blades would be nice. Place the CPU onto the black foam pad to prevent pin damage. Carefully and slowly cut around the edge of the black glue between the PCB and IHS. Do not let the razor penetrate more than 2-3mm under the IHS. Keep going around the IHS until it starts to feel loose. Give it a small twist and it should pop off. (My fault was two fold. First, I bent a few pins, I was able to fix that. Second, I hit a pack or two with the razor by going too deep, I was not able to fix that.)


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
You take a VERY sharp razor. I cannot stress the need for a brand-new, sharp razor. Multiple blades would be nice. Place the CPU onto the black foam pad to prevent pin damage. Carefully and slowly cut around the edge of the black glue between the PCB and IHS. Do not let the razor penetrate more than 2-3mm under the IHS. Keep going around the IHS until it starts to feel loose. Give it a small twist and it should pop off. (My fault was two fold. First, I bent a few pins, I was able to fix that. Second, I hit a pack or two with the razor by going too deep, I was not able to fix that.)









I see, thanks. I'm guessing the only sensible reason for doing this is to unlock the multiplier, or are there other benefits to be gained in addition to unlocking the multiplier???


----------



## Blitz6804

Unlocking the multiplier is impossible for the average end user.

The benefit of de-lidding a processor is better heat transfer between the CPU and the heatsink. You would tend to experience a smaller core delta and lower overall temperatures.

As I have already said, there are several serious risks with this. Not to mention you will also likely need to modify the retention module of your heat sink to accommodate the difference in height between the CPU and the CPU with IHS. If I could do it all again, I would have listened to Joe and tried other alternatives first including finding a way to improve the heatsink clamp and lapping the CPU.

Do NOT try de-lidding unless you are equally willing to just throw the CPU out. It is a very real possibility that is what you will end up doing anyway. Learn from the mistakes I made so you do not suffer the loss of a friend like I did. (Rest in Peace my poor little Toledo.)


----------



## pez

Hmm blitz, I have a question for you as from the last I could tell, you seemed somewhat dissapointed going from s939 to AM2. My question is, with the money I have saved, I could save up another $100 and get a new CPU, Mobo, and RAM for about $300. My question is if I go AM2/AM2+ would that be like you've said before, more of a side-step or would it be good? I wouldn't want to get caught in a CPU jam again, where I'm looking for a x4 phenom 2 years later because I got my new stuff right before a new socket came out. I could probably find an Intel rig for the same price, but I'm wondering your suggestions. IMO I think I have a very decent rig. It can handle crysis on medium, and it's speedy through everything else. So I mean, would a GFX upgrade be a good idea for me, or would a whole new refresh be better? I hate that I'm indecesicive about this stuff, but I just want to make sure I'm spending my money wisely.


----------



## Blitz6804

I reiterate my opinion. Unless you are replacing dead hardware, you have no reason to transgrade from Socket 939 to Socket AM2. An upgrade from Socket 939 to Socket AM2+ is more reasonable, but I seriously think you are better served waiting on AM3 with its DDR3, lower power consumption, and lower heat output.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I reiterate my opinion. Unless you are replacing dead hardware, you have no reason to transgrade from Socket 939 to Socket AM2. An upgrade from Socket 939 to Socket AM2+ is more reasonable, but I seriously think you are better served waiting on AM3 with its DDR3, lower power consumption, and lower heat output.

That's what I was thinking. Thanks for your input. I owe you a bunch of rep at this point. I owe a lot of you in here quite a bit for putting up w/ my rambling and indecisiveness.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Is is possible to safely remove the IHS on 939's with out damaging the cpu and if so how is it done???

Since Blitz has done a good job of explaining some of the procedures and "DOs" and "DON'Ts" of taking off the IHS, I'll just answer this particular question: Yes, it can be done safely. My sig rig runs topless.









I've popped the top off of several S939 CPUs and have only one mishap (albeit one that was not a direct result of the operation of taking the IHS off).

Here are some (somewhat blurry) pictures of a naked S939 Opteron:



















These pictures show a naked S939 Opteron with some electrical tape draped over the vulnerable peripheral ICs surrounding the core die itself. I dropped a heatsink on one of these and killed a chip that way.




























It's not too difficult once you overcome the first-time jitters. The (recommended) slow way for IHS removal virgins: Every S939 CPU has a groove wherein the adhesive is very soft between the IHS and the top surface of the CPU PCB. It is usually very obvious even with the naked eye. Run your (super-sharp) thin razor across this soft spot to score it several times, so that you can have a point where the blade can bite more deeply into the junction between the IHS and the PCB.

An imperative point: Always keep the blade as flat against the PCB as possible. If you etch the surface of the PCB too much, you run the risk of damaging the CPU, and you can kiss it good-bye forever.

Work slowly. You'll notice that, every time you run your blade through the adhesive, you're getting the blade deeper and deeper little by little. Progress is good, but too much is too much; always be mindful that going in too deeply risks damaging the little ICs on the core die's periphery (the small gold-colored devices surrounding the central die).

Run the blade all around the perimeter of the IHS gradually. Eventually, the IHS should just pop right off (which means you've cut through all of the adhesive the right way). If you've been careful and have done things the right way, you'll have a healthy topless CPU.

As Blitz said, be careful of bending the pins when you hold the CPU. If some pins do become bent, don't panic; this is easy to fix.

The slow method works well and should guard against damage unless you're particularly ham-fisted and totally lacking in feel and finesse. But if I can do it, there's no reason why nobody else can.









I have a quicker technique that cuts the work time down to about five to ten minutes, depending on the softness of the adhesive. I find a corner where the adhesive feels the softest, then push my razor into the gap between the IHS and the PCB; this gives me access to two sides (which are perpendicular to each other) along which to work. Depending on whether you are left-handed or right-handed, you choose the side to work, and you just simply push the blade into the gap and run it down that side until you reach the next corner. Repeat until you get all four corners and the IHS comes off real easily.

This quick technique is not recommended at all if you don't know how deeply the blade should go in, so do not do things this way unless you are prepared for a bad consequence. It should also be said that this second method is also a bit more dangerous in terms of cutting yourself with the sharp razor. It's all in how you hold the CPU and the blade.

*(Always be careful when working with a blade, regardless of what you're doing with it.)*

I'll ask thlnk3r to help me someday on a pictorial on the subject. I can't photograph myself whilst working on a procedure like this.

Take care, and good luck to whomever tries his hand at taking the top off of a S939 CPU.


----------



## Blitz6804

"The slow method works well and should guard against damage unless you're particularly ham-fisted and totally lacking in feel and finesse."

Quod erat demonstrandum.


----------



## N2Gaming

Joe, you just gave me an idea. it might not be 100% fool proof but it seems like it could be pretty close to it for me any way. I'm thinking I could use an exacto with small vise grips clamped to the blade so that only a little blade pertrudes beyond the vise grip edge. Next clamp the visegrip/exacto team into a vise clam. Followed by a slow and steady hand, while holding the cpu push it onto the blade down to the dept of the vise grip and slowly cut away the glue. Scoring the glue like you mentioned would probably help out tremendously in this task so that I don't run off course while cutting the glue.

Pez. if your going sli you could find some pretty cheap hardware on ebay mobo ram etc. I did notice a little increase in 3dmark03 from under 30k to under 32k so it's not much but the sli x16 x2 helps a little.


----------



## Blitz6804

Pez has an SLI motherboard already. He has run SLI on it in the past.


----------



## N2Gaming

doe his sli run x16 for both video cards. that's all I was trying to point out. I also forgot to mention. when the am3 comes out I'm sure prices will skyrocket high again as with any new technology the prices are always high at introduction for at least 6 months to a year.


----------



## pez

Yeah, it's only x8/x8 so I think I'm gonna go for the best card I can get for my money







.


----------



## N2Gaming

I was not nocking what blitz has to say. he is right. A really good video card now will possibly do you more justice down the road if you decide to go intel or am3 later on. I just purchased an M2n32 sli delux wifi and 2 gig of corsair xms2 ram for $100 like less then 30 min ago on ebay with a doa return policy. Now all I have to do is purchase another x2 5400+ BE for $80.00 new and I have a really good system oc'd stable at 3.2 ghz w/x16 x2 sli for $180.00 ad antother $120. for a good video card bringing the total to just at the $300 mark you mentioned. My friend wants a gaming rig so I'm building him one and I think this is a good starter rig for him.


----------



## pez

Yeah, I had been contemplating a whole new rig, but I'm happy with this one (except for hte GFX >.<). Just a couple more days 'til I can order my damn card. Then I have to get rid of this ancient looking CRT.


----------



## N2Gaming

now your talk'n... you mentioned the 1600 x 1050 if im not mistaken or was it 1900 x 1050 res?

edit: that crt would be a good thing to have around for bench testing systems in the garage or other pc's like a buddies or what ever.


----------



## pez

Yeah...speaking of which, we don't need anymore. My dad had this great idea about a year ago where we went down to like a city auction and get bought like 50-60 old computers (probably p4s and p3s). He fixed most of them, which was good, but he had a crapton of CRTs left. I've never seen so many CRT's in my life...That ugly white color. Bleh. Yeah, I think I might shoot for a 1680x1050 monitor for X-mas.


----------



## Blitz6804

He wanted a 1680x1050 monitor with a video card that can drive it at that for most games. He would tolerate a 1440x900 resolution in Crysis if I recall correctly, but would not play with 1280x800.

(Simulpost FTL.)


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
He wanted a 1680x1050 monitor with a video card that can drive it at that for most games. He would tolerate a 1440x900 resolution in Crysis if I recall correctly, but would not play with 1280x800.

(Simulpost FTL.)

Yes, that's correct







.

OK. So I just found a deal on a ASUS P5K-D (x16/x16 SLI) for $75. I'm really itching on this because that's a fantastic deal and I would have enough money to even get a semi decent CPU.


----------



## N2Gaming

ok, do you know for sure the mobo is good not doa? I ask becuase you could always get it and sit on it for a while till you get some more money and find another deal on a cpu. it's kind of risky if you don't have a cpu and ram for testing when you get the p5k-d. other wise it sounds like a good deal. Here is a link I just found about the p5k delux http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...k5-memory.html


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


ok, do you know for sure the mobo is good not doa? I ask becuase you could always get it and sit on it for a while till you get some more money and find another deal on a cpu. it's kind of risky if you don't have a cpu and ram for testing when you get the pk5-d. other wise it sounds like a good deal. Here is a link I just found about the pk5 delux http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...k5-memory.html


Well it's from another OCN member, and hopefully I willl be able to use the warranty if I do get it. But nothing is certain yet.


----------



## awdrifter

I'm seriously rethinking about doing the de-lidding now, it's much more dangerous that I thought. But just for future reference, can someone with a de-lidded CPU measure how far in the transistors are from the edge of the pcb on each side? Thanks.


----------



## N2Gaming

lol wow txtmstrjoe put in a lot of







in regards to this subject with awesome tips. the one thing you could do is buy a cheap athlon 3500+ on ebay for like $5 to $10 and see if it works first then try to delid it. this is the best practice your gonna get with out worring to much about if you are doing it wrong the first time around. Practice on a cheap chip and if it works then you always have a spare delided chip just incase your other cpu should die. or if you think it might be dead then once again you have a spare to test if your mobo or cpu is the problem









Sorry blitz I almost forget about the knowledge you put forth as well.


----------



## Blitz6804

I can try measuring for you tomorrow awdrifter. If not, definitely Tuesday.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *awdrifter* 
I'm seriously rethinking about doing the de-lidding now, it's much more dangerous that I thought. But just for future reference, can someone with a de-lidded CPU measure how far in the transistors are from the edge of the pcb on each side? Thanks.

Awdrifter, if your second guessing the de-lidding then go for a IHS lap and heatsink lap. To be honest I was scared too. I decided to just lap both surfaces and be done with it. The results were rewarding nonetheless.

Good luck


----------



## awdrifter

Well, lapping my Q6600 dropped the hottest core by 4c, and I'm definitely not afraid to do that. But since the S939 K8's IHS is not soldered, the heat transfer between the core and the IHS wouldn't be as good as my Q6600, so would lapping help much at all?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *awdrifter* 
Well, lapping my Q6600 dropped the hottest core by 4c, and I'm definitely not afraid to do that. But since the S939 K8's IHS is not soldered, the heat transfer between the core and the IHS wouldn't be as good as my Q6600, so would lapping help much at all?

Lapping does in fact help. You can drop the temps from 2c-6c give or take the quality of the lap.With a CPU naked, you can expect even more of a drop in temps.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I'd do the measurements, awdrifter, but my problem is I don't have a reliable way to make the measurements right now. Maybe I can borrow a calibrated straight-edge at work...

The Duke cites a maximum cutting depth of 5mm in this thread; in other words, do not cut more than 5mm deep into the adhesive.

I must say, though, that that depth might vary (if only by a little bit here and there) depending on what CPU core model we're talking about. This cited thread specifies a Manchester (the same as your X2 4600+), but there's no way to know whether or not The Duke's measurement is true for all S939s (I can tell you that there are variances in layout under that IHS from core type to core type).

Fortunately, the first link I provided has some quite decent pictures of the Manchester after the IHS has been removed.

This thread has some excellent pictures of a Denmark/Toledo getting its top taken off. You can probably make educated estimates based on these photos for a Denmark/Toledo chip.

Hope this helps, and good luck!


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Since Blitz has done a good job of explaining some of the procedures and "DOs" and "DON'Ts" of taking off the IHS, I'll just answer this particular question: Yes, it can be done safely. My sig rig runs topless.









I've popped the top off of several S939 CPUs and have only one mishap (albeit one that was not a direct result of the operation of taking the IHS off).

Here are some (somewhat blurry) pictures of a naked S939 Opteron:



















These pictures show a naked S939 Opteron with some electrical tape draped over the vulnerable peripheral ICs surrounding the core die itself. I dropped a heatsink on one of these and killed a chip that way.




























It's not too difficult once you overcome the first-time jitters. The (recommended) slow way for IHS removal virgins: Every S939 CPU has a groove wherein the adhesive is very soft between the IHS and the top surface of the CPU PCB. It is usually very obvious even with the naked eye. Run your (super-sharp) thin razor across this soft spot to score it several times, so that you can have a point where the blade can bite more deeply into the junction between the IHS and the PCB.

An imperative point: Always keep the blade as flat against the PCB as possible. If you etch the surface of the PCB too much, you run the risk of damaging the CPU, and you can kiss it good-bye forever.

Work slowly. You'll notice that, every time you run your blade through the adhesive, you're getting the blade deeper and deeper little by little. Progress is good, but too much is too much; always be mindful that going in too deeply risks damaging the little ICs on the core die's periphery (the small gold-colored devices surrounding the central die).

Run the blade all around the perimeter of the IHS gradually. Eventually, the IHS should just pop right off (which means you've cut through all of the adhesive the right way). If you've been careful and have done things the right way, you'll have a healthy topless CPU.

As Blitz said, be careful of bending the pins when you hold the CPU. If some pins do become bent, don't panic; this is easy to fix.

The slow method works well and should guard against damage unless you're particularly ham-fisted and totally lacking in feel and finesse. But if I can do it, there's no reason why nobody else can.









I have a quicker technique that cuts the work time down to about five to ten minutes, depending on the softness of the adhesive. I find a corner where the adhesive feels the softest, then push my razor into the gap between the IHS and the PCB; this gives me access to two sides (which are perpendicular to each other) along which to work. Depending on whether you are left-handed or right-handed, you choose the side to work, and you just simply push the blade into the gap and run it down that side until you reach the next corner. Repeat until you get all four corners and the IHS comes off real easily.

This quick technique is not recommended at all if you don't know how deeply the blade should go in, so do not do things this way unless you are prepared for a bad consequence. It should also be said that this second method is also a bit more dangerous in terms of cutting yourself with the sharp razor. It's all in how you hold the CPU and the blade.

*(Always be careful when working with a blade, regardless of what you're doing with it.)*

I'll ask thlnk3r to help me someday on a pictorial on the subject. I can't photograph myself whilst working on a procedure like this.

Take care, and good luck to whomever tries his hand at taking the top off of a S939 CPU.










Great post Joe!







It's a nice mini FAQ on IHS removal. You should link to it in the OP to keep it from getting "lost" as the thread grows. Just an idea


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *awdrifter*


Well, lapping my Q6600 dropped the hottest core by 4c, and I'm definitely not afraid to do that. But since the S939 K8's IHS is not soldered, the heat transfer between the core and the IHS wouldn't be as good as my Q6600, so would lapping help much at all?


Awdrifter, if done properly you would could see a nice decrease in full load temps. I saw about 3-5C decrease with my Opteron 170 and SI-128. There was a few times were I ran the two without thermal compound (for testing) and I wasn't seeing anything above 60C while in Orthos. Lapping does help. Here is the guide that I followed: http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...ltake-big.html.

Hope that helps


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


DFI LANparty Venus!!!!!!!


JUST A HEADS UP , Id be careful with this guy if i were you , this is the same guy I bought my expert board from .... took 6 weeks to finally get the board to me , he said his wife shipped it to the wrong person 3 times ???


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Edit: I managed to finish the task of replacing 3 caps on the expert. sheezy wipes forehead. I'm happy to say she's still alive. Right now I have it oc'd @2.5 and I'm working on getting it stable with the lowest voltage possible. Then I'll burn it in with that oc once stable. After burn in, I'll try to push it some more with all the help I can get. I think I'll use the 2 gig ram from my sli dr rig to use for testing. I'm anxious to see what this board can do with my 3500+ Venice for now.










 I am only able to get the expert stable with stock cpu and ram spd's. I installed cod4 to test for gaming stability but it wont run w/o sound card. I want to try the saound module from my sli dr board but I don't know if they are the same module. does any one know it they are the same or not??? Thnx


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I am only able to get the expert stable with stock cpu and ram spd's. I installed cod4 to test for gaming stability but it wont run w/o sound card. I want to try the saound module from my sli dr board but I don't know if they are the same module. does any one know it they are the same or not??? Thnx


N2Gaming, your probably better off testing stability with applications such as Orthos, Prime 95 and OCCT. You'll get better and quicker results with these applications then you would playing a game.

In regards to your audio question, I believe the SLI-DR and SLI-DR Expert use the same Karajan audio module. I'm assuming this is true since both modules have the ALC850 chipset.

Hope that helps


----------



## Blitz6804

My research seems to suggest that they are the same yes.

As for stability: while I usually advocate Orthos, OCCT, and S&M, it is not always sufficient. I have had, like Joe has, a computer pass S&M and then fail under some light gaming.

CoD4 may not be a bad place to start stability testing after all, at least on a video card. It is the only program that does not permit me to overclock my video cards at all.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
a computer pass S&M and then fail under some light gaming.

Blitz, there are exceptions for this type of situation. How often does that actually occur? In the past year or so of running this overclock I've had my machine lock up twice. Nothing is 100% stable but Orthos/Prime95 can get us close to proving stability.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

S&M does not test 3D stability. It has not happened to me recently, but I did have one setting that would pass S&M but would crash under 5-15 minutes of gaming. Sometimes it was a BSOD, others it was a hard freeze.


----------



## GuardianOdin

I've been S&M stable and failed OCCT and Orthos. I have been OCCT and Orthos stable and failed S&M.....and I've been stable in all three. My best guess is that it has something to do with the RAM settings.

Most crashes I have during games are BSOD. Not normally a bad OC on the videocard, but rather driver/game conflicts. ATI Tool is a very good way of testing your video card OC. I wouldn't personal recommend Nvidia's advanced settings test. It has always been very flaky with my rig. It may not with others though.


----------



## Blitz6804

That's the other annoying thing. I can run ATI Tool for two hours straight. I boot Call of Duty 4, and the video driver crashes within 15 minutes. Ask Pioneerisloud. For some reason, Call of Duty 4 absolutely refuses to play nice with a video card overclock. (Other games work fine.) Since going crossfire however, I have lost the need to overclock the cards at all, so it is moot.


----------



## N2Gaming

The varieties of results in your tests are interesting to say the least. I don't know the best way to test for stability. That's why I was just going to try a game. So far I've run P95 @ stock spd's for two hours and no problems. I have not been able to get any stable overclocks. Probably due to ocz memory. So I was just going to try to play a game at stock spd's to test the mobo and sound card for general crash free usage. I did not get any accessories w/expert board. DFI will deliver a sound module to my door for $15. So I wanted to test the sound and any related circuits on the board before I spend the $15 for the module. I don't have any other testing software other than the free P95 and that usually gives me an Idea if I have any serious hardware or bios related issues. Thank you for the info. I will try the sound module and post results.

One more question. Can I purchase any of the test's you guys have mentioned in a store or do they all have to be downloaded. Lately I have been experiencing a lot of problems with downloads and viruses etc, so I prefer a clean & safe store purchased copy of the most reliable testing software for use w/xp x64 bit. Thanks









Blitz, after testing ATI do you reboot your system before playing cod4 or do you jump right in w/out reboot. I wondering if there is some kind of problem associated w/the tests not releasing the memory in either your mobo or grfx card after testing.


----------



## Blitz6804

Rebooting the computer has no effect on stability. Increasing the GPU's speed by even one megahertz causes the driver to fail. All the tests must be downloaded. If it will help you any, you can PM me your email address and I will send you certified virus-free versions.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


That's the other annoying thing. I can run ATI Tool for two hours straight. I boot Call of Duty 4, and the video driver crashes within 15 minutes. Ask Pioneerisloud. For some reason, Call of Duty 4 absolutely refuses to play nice with a video card overclock. (Other games work fine.) Since going crossfire however, I have lost the need to overclock the cards at all, so it is moot.


CoD4 has a really bad issue with the sound. It could very well not be your video card. I had to set on low and work my way back to high to get from crashing.


----------



## N2Gaming

I just had an Idea and I'm wondering if any one has knowledge and experience w/what Iâ€™d like to do. Here is my idea. I want to run a clean install of OS and then look at all the files associated with OS and take a screen shot and save it. Then I want to load all associated hardware drivers and take another screen shot of files. And for every app I install I would like to take a screen shot of the loaded files.

Here is my problem. I don't know what files to look at or where I would find them. What is the reason behind all this curiosity you might ask? Well in theory I would like to be able to compare my system before it goes on line and after it goes on line. Then I would like to be able to delete files, undo addware or fix deleted &/or corrupt files. Thanks


----------



## pez

I've never had trouble with video card OC's in COD4. I've actually had an OC be stable for like 6 hours, but the next day have it fail in ATITool after 20 seconds.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

A few words on the notion of stability:

In my opinion, there really isn't a computer that is 100% absolutely stable (i.e., immune to crashing, hanging, freezing, etc.), except one that is turned off. If a computer is on, no matter how much work you put into testing for stability, you never get it so that the machine is perfectly stable. You can set things up so that you can get it as close as possible, but since it's a machine, it is inherently prone to failure at some point. With computers, the failure can be either be caused by faulty/faltering/broken/badly-set up hardware, or by software conflicts.

Does this mean, then, that we shouldn't work on getting our machines as close to perfectly stable while operational? Of course not. This assumes, of course, that you want a reliable and stable machine (some benchmark junkies may only care to be "benchmark-stable," which is further down the ladder of the kind of stability I demand from my machines). I personally want as much from both sides of the overclockers' coin, i.e., I want a fast AND stable machine. This is why I put so much time into running tests to ensure my rigs satisfy my personal requirements.

I employ a multi-stage battery of testing. At the lowest level, the machine must pass MemTest86+ (pre-OS boot); next up is SuperPi 32M (when testing HTT Frequency Clock max); next, Orthos Small FFTs @ Priority 8 (when testing HTT Frequency Clock max, and then testing CPU OC max); Orthos Blend @ Priority 8 (when testing RAM OC); 3DMark06 (to test basic 3D stability); rthdribl (to test 3D stability); then, the _coup de grace_, a long test on S&M @ max priority.

Testing periods for each test varies; you get a sense for a particular chip's potential, I believe, which guides you when you run your testing. Generally speaking, though, at the early stages of an overclock, your testing periods are shorter, less thorough; you're still building up towards the chip's maximum, after all, so you ought to be passing the shorter tests very easily. The closer you get to what you sense are the limits, though, I think you have to really get as thorough and stringent as possible with the machine. That's why I leave the most punishing stability test that I know about for when finalizing a setup.

If you'll notice, I don't have the fastest machine here; I'll bet, though, that I have one of the most stable.







Besides, my 2.8GHz is more than fast enough for me. And it's a well-balanced setup, too, with the RAM as optimized as possible.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I just had an Idea and I'm wondering if any one has knowledge and experience w/what Iâ€™d like to do. Here is my idea. I want to run a clean install of OS and then look at all the files associated with OS and take a screen shot and save it. Then I want to load all associated hardware drivers and take another screen shot of files. And for every app I install I would like to take a screen shot of the loaded files.

Here is my problem. I don't know what files to look at or where I would find them. What is the reason behind all this curiosity you might ask? Well in theory I would like to be able to compare my system before it goes on line and after it goes on line. Then I would like to be able to delete files, undo addware or fix deleted &/or corrupt files. Thanks










N2Gaming, this might be very difficult seeming a lot of applications install hidden files in different directories(.dll, .inf ect ect). Each application may be different. Especially in the registry. There could be several entries. What are you installing that may contained adware?

Good luck

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


I've never had trouble with video card OC's in COD4. I've actually had an OC be stable for like 6 hours, but the next day have it fail in ATITool after 20 seconds.


Pez, same here my friend. I had a overclocked X700Pro pass several hours of ATITool but then crash almost instantly in a game. I think Joe had a nice 1:1 processor/memory overclock in the past. It passed several hours of stress testing but as soon as 3DMark06 booted up it was a no go. Nothing is 100% stable as stated in a previous post but eh...at least these applications provide some kind of satisfaction when it comes to stability


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Pez, same here my friend. I had a overclocked X700Pro pass several hours of ATITool but then crash almost instantly in a game. I think Joe had a nice 1:1 processor/memory overclock in the past. It passed several hours of stress testing but as soon as 3DMark06 booted up it was a no go. Nothing is 100% stable as stated in a previous post but eh...at least these applications provide some kind of satisfaction when it comes to stability









Only vice versa for me. ATITool refused to stay stable, but 10+ hours of gaming even after another attempt proved it wrong. The only thing that I really would benchmark would be my CPU and RAM, which are stable right now. I love my rig, and it's at a 1:1 ratio







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I have not been able to get any stable overclocks nor have I been able to get the sound module to work. I wanted to test the sound and any related circuits on the board before I pay $15 to DFI for the sound module. I will try the sound module and post results.


The sound module is not working so far. After futher review of the downloaded mobo manual and mobo itself I noticed a 4 pin 5v/12v floppy power plug on the mobo that I had not pluged into the power supply. I'm wondering if this is why the sound is not working and If I possibly damaged to board by not plugging this up to power supply???


----------



## Blitz6804

The point of those plugs is to give the motherboard added stability if you are taxing the system. A low GPU and an unclocked CPU would not qualify. Running a CPU at 3.0 GHz and Quad SLI might cause you some stability issues from voltage droop.


----------



## N2Gaming

thanks, Yeah I just found it in the manual. it claims added stability for sli and overall general system stablilty but the board will work w/out it. So The mobo was probably scrapped because the onboard sound circuits are dead. no biggy if that's the only problem. I'll just use a creative labs card...







Game on wayne, Game on Garth


----------



## JEmmaB

Quite new here.

May I have the honor to join the Socket 939 Appreciation Club and Knowledgebase.


















http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=333903










http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=280855










http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=249290










http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=336898


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JEmmaB*


Quite new here.

May I have the honor to join the Socket 939 Appreciation Club and Knowledgebase.


















http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=333903










http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=280855










http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=249290










http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=336898


Wow very nice, I'm sure blitz and txtmstrjoe will step in and get you straightened out. Welcome and nice OC's btw







.


----------



## JEmmaB

Quote:



Wow very nice, I'm sure blitz and txtmstrjoe will step in and get you straightened out. Welcome and nice OC's btw .


Thanks a lot for the compliment and warm welcome.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JEmmaB*












Nice FSB









Quote:



Originally Posted by *JEmmaB*


http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=333903
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=280855
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=249290
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=336898


I think you messed up the links. Ah well, at least copy-paste works









Welcome anyway









That is a cool Opteron 185








Oh, and a ClawHammer FX


----------



## JEmmaB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


Nice FSB









I think you messed up the links. Ah well, at least copy-paste works









Welcome anyway









That is a cool Opteron 185








Oh, and a ClawHammer FX


















Corrected the links and thanks for the welcome.

To keep the balance. LOL! Opteron 185 one of the last 939's produced and the FX-53 one of the earliest.


----------



## HothBase

Also noticed that you must like the LanParty boards


----------



## JEmmaB

Yup! I have a love/hate relationship with them LanParty mobos.









And they do offer sweet overclocks.









Opty 185 Record...


----------



## Blitz6804

Welcome to the club JEmmB! I will be adding you to the offsite roster when I return home from class today. Joe will add you either on his lunch break or when he gets home today.

You have quite a collection of CPUs, including the club's third Clawhammer. (For those of you who do not know, the Clawhammer was a dual-socket release: it was released both for Skt 754 and Skt 939.)

I am also loving that Opteron 185. I do not know if you noticed on the offsite roster, but CPUs in excess of 3.2 GHz get special recognition. Could you tell me please, is that on air or on water? (Nevermind, I just looked it up. The Air DeepCool Beta 400 is an air cooler. CONGRATS!)


----------



## N2Gaming

*Welcome, Nice Opty 185! Does it have the same specs as an fx-60 less the unlocked multiplier?







*


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes. An Opteron 185 stocks at 13x200. It is a Denmark 110 W CPU whereas the FX-60 is a Toledo 110 W. (The only difference between Denmark and Toledo of course being the former can use ECC registered RAM.)


----------



## JEmmaB

Thanks for the very warm welcome blitz6804!









I really enjoy 939 procs hence my small collection.









I'm quite excited about the off-site roster. And the Opty 185 is on air.


----------



## N2Gaming

I thoguht about getting a opty 185 when I got the opty 180 but low supply and high cost made me lean more toward the 180.


----------



## JEmmaB

Yup! the opty 185 while it was still offered at newegg not so long ago was sold at a way higher price than the opty 180. Not to mention the price of an FX-60 at ebay today.


----------



## Blitz6804

Frankly, given the choice, I would likely rather have the Opteron 185 over the FX-60. I presently own a CPU with an upwardly-unlocked multiplier and I have to say it was the most worthless feature I have ever used. Downwardly-unlocked is cool. Upwardly-unlocked is not. Sure, you can overclock the CPU with little-to-no effort, but the system as a whole runs so much better when you also get the HTT moving.


----------



## N2Gaming

speaking of htt. what if any is the best ram for overclocking in the sli dr board? or is that a loaded question?

I mean manufacturer and model #


----------



## Blitz6804

That is in fact a loaded question. "Best" is a subjective term. People's opinions of "best" may vary as well as results with the same. The best example I can think of are the Corsair RAM that I sold to Pioneerisloud. I could not run them faster than DDR 410. He easily runs them at DDR 530.


----------



## RAMDAC

Hell yeah! That's why I'm still @ OCN 
More Opty brethren = more fun!!!









In these days of DDR3 you can't formulate a question for the best DDR1 modules, instead you should ask what is still available.
And also the brand of the manufacturer is not primary to target.
You should look for the chips that are on it.

And here you could choose between 3 commonly known options

- Micron 5B-C
- Samsung TCCD
- Winbond BH-5

Compatibility is another issue, e.g. the 1GB DDR500 Crucial Ballistix Tracer with Micron 5B-C chips won't work on the nF4 SLI DR Expert but will work on the nF4 SLI DR, while Teamgroup's Team Xtreem 1GB DDR500 Cronus with the same Micron 5B-C chips will work on the Expert version too.
But there is a compatibility list for memory modules, so check it out and then look which of those are still available.

LANPARTY nF4 SLI-DR - Recommended Memory for overclocking

I would recommend you the 2x 1GB DDR500 Team Xtreem Cronus, unfortunately there aren't any available worldwide. 
Perhaps *Tankguys* still get some DDR1 overclocking RAM.

Cheers!


----------



## HothBase

Uhm, I'm kind of looking for a list of s939 CPU models with info on "good"/"bad" steppings etc.
Anyone know where to find something like this?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RAMDAC* 
Hell yeah! That's why I'm still @ OCN
More Opty brethren = more fun!!!









In these days of DDR3 you can't formulate a question for the best DDR1 modules, instead you should ask what is still available.
And also the brand of the manufacturer is not primary to target.
You should look for the chips that are on it.

And here you could choose between 3 commonly known options

- Micron 5B-C
- Samsung TCCD
- Winbond BH-5

Compatibility is another issue, e.g. the 1GB DDR500 Crucial Ballistix Tracer with Micron 5B-C chips won't work on the nF4 SLI DR Expert but will work on the nF4 SLI DR, while Teamgroup's Team Xtreem 1GB DDR500 Cronus with the same Micron 5B-C chips will work on the Expert version too.
But there is a compatibility list for memory modules, so check it out and then look which of those are still available.

LANPARTY nF4 SLI-DR - Recommended Memory for overclocking

I would recommend you the 2x 1GB DDR500 Team Xtreem Cronus, unfortunately there aren't any available worldwide.
Perhaps *Tankguys* still get some DDR1 overclocking RAM.

Cheers!









wow I can practically build an etire system for the price of tankguys mushkin 2 x 1024 http://www.tankguys.com/product_info...oducts_id=1235


----------



## pez

Good news guys! I finally stopped fighting myself and ordered a card today







. I ended up going with the 9800GT. I did this because I own and would like to play Crysis well when I get a nice monitor







. I went w/ the XFX one so it will have good resell-ability







.


----------



## RAMDAC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


Uhm, I'm kind of looking for a list of s939 CPU models with info on "good"/"bad" steppings etc.
Anyone know where to find something like this?


*ALL s939 OPTERON Steppings and Average Overclocks*

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


wow I can practically build an etire system for the price of tankguys mushkin 2 x 1024 http://www.tankguys.com/product_info...oducts_id=1235


DDR1 is much more expensive than DDR2. A paradox that is common with many HW parts and actually well calculated by the industry.
Anyway, if it's just for overclocking purposes, a 2x 512MB Kit should be sufficient
*1GB Kit Team Xtreem Zeus 2-2-2-5 (BH5-UTT)*


----------



## N2Gaming

Pez: way to go finally biting the bullet.

RAMDAC: actually I'm not verry successfull at over clocking my dfi boards and I like having 2gig of ram for multitasking and gaming. I tend to run out of patience about 2 hours into the process. I try to remember all the different variables and what does what. That's when I start getting head ackes. So I resort back to stock spd's. I know I know. why have a dfi if I'm not going to take the time to get it finely tuned. Well to be quite honest, I am quite pleased with the ferfomance of the DFI boards at stock spd's







But I would like to be able to get a stable overclock.


----------



## pez

N2Gaming said:


> Pez: way to go finally biting the bullet.QUOTE]
> 
> Hehe, thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The biggest reason I went nvidia over ati was actually based on warranty. I think the biggest warranty an ATI manufacturer supplied was 3 years, and that was ASUS. I keep stuff for a long time, and I know I will especially with this card, and even if I do want to sell it down the road, it has a double lifetime warranty, so the next buyer will be in total luck.


----------



## Blitz6804

Congrats on the purchase Pez; I think you will be quite happy with it.

N2Gaming, if you are looking for DDR 500, talk to Pez. I am currently holding my second kit for him. It is identical to the one he now runs.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Congrats on the purchase Pez; I think you will be quite happy with it.

N2Gaming, if you are looking for DDR 500, talk to Pez. I am currently holding my second kit for him. It is identical to the one he now runs.


 I was actually looking at some redline ddr500 here http://www.mushkin.com/doc/products/...ail.asp?id=273 and I'm like pez in regards to being reluctant to go for any in paticular ram product. I have had good experiance with ocz @ stock spd's but not OC'd.


----------



## Blitz6804

Those are the Redlines I am selling. I have ran them at DDR 500 3-3-2-8 and DDR 400 2-3-2-6.


----------



## thlnk3r

Jemmab, nice overclocks. Welcome to the club









What stepping is the 146?

Pez, good luck with the 9800GT. I hope you get some nice frames with the card.

Ramdac, thanks for the link. Very interesting, "_CAB2E All weeks are hitting about 3.0ghz+ except the 0546 FPDW_" is the stepping of my 146 (0546) and it doesn't even come close to 2.7Ghz...ack

Good to see the thread is still very active


----------



## N2Gaming

Well there is probably a lot people who purchased a 939 rig like myself. I had a duron 800mhz socket A and I tried to play Delta force Black Hawk Down and that made me do the research for a new computer. So I purchased the dfi nf4 sli dr after about a week of mobo reviews. I could not believe how fast the system was. I mean there was no lag time, it played any game and was very stable and that's still the case today. I'm sure there is a lot of people who would like to hang on to the 939's for this very reason.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Congrats on the purchase Pez; I think you will be quite happy with it.

N2Gaming, if you are looking for DDR 500, talk to Pez. I am currently holding my second kit for him. It is identical to the one he now runs.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I was actually looking at some redline ddr500 here http://www.mushkin.com/doc/products/...ail.asp?id=273 and I'm like pez in regards to being reluctant to go for any in paticular ram product. I have had good experiance with ocz @ stock spd's but not OC'd.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Those are the Redlines I am selling. I have ran them at DDR 500 3-3-2-8 and DDR 400 2-3-2-6.


Yeah, I didn't forget







. Sorry, I had to get the GFX card upgrade out of the way first. I am still interested in them if you don't mind waiting, but if you have to, N2 is welcome







. IMO, it is a great set of RAM, but then again, I went from running at DDR333 at 266 or similar to running DDR500. It was ridiculous and sped my computer up a bunch, plus it gave me a crazy stable OC







. It could be issues w/in my mobo, but I can't seem to get anything higher than 2.5 on this chip, but I have no complaints as a 25% OC was way over my expectations and has me more than happy ATM. Not to mention, the RAM has a "Ooooohhhh, so pretttyyyyy" look to it







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Yeah Not to mention, the RAM has a "Ooooohhhh, so pretttyyyyy" look to it







.


Do you feel pretty oh so pretty???


----------



## Blitz6804

Hey Pez... your signature is out of date. You are now in 64-bit Windows and have different RAM; your 3DMark will be different. (I recommend killing Visual Themes and Desktop Composition in compatibility mode to increase your score. Also running it in XP mode will increase it almost to the point of you running it on XP. Not quite though.)


----------



## JEmmaB

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Frankly, given the choice, I would likely rather have the Opteron 185 over the FX-60. I presently own a CPU with an upwardly-unlocked multiplier and I have to say it was the most worthless feature I have ever used. Downwardly-unlocked is cool. Upwardly-unlocked is not. Sure, you can overclock the CPU with little-to-no effort, but the system as a whole runs so much better when you also get the HTT moving.

So true raising the muliplier just stresses the proc more, hence allowing only minimal overclocks.

IMO owning an FX is more on bragging rights, than performance.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Do you feel pretty oh so pretty???









Oh yes, very. Green, Red, and Black are my favorite colors







.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Hey Pez... your signature is out of date. You are now in 64-bit Windows and have different RAM; your 3DMark will be different. (I recommend killing Visual Themes and Desktop Composition in compatibility mode to increase your score. Also running it in XP mode will increase it almost to the point of you running it on XP. Not quite though.)

Hmmm, I actually believe that was my score when I did it because I remember turning off everything that was running. It was 5500-5600 before this.


----------



## JEmmaB

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Jemmab, nice overclocks. Welcome to the club









What stepping is the 146?

Pez, good luck with the 9800GT. I hope you get some nice frames with the card.

Ramdac, thanks for the link. Very interesting, "_CAB2E All weeks are hitting about 3.0ghz+ except the 0546 FPDW_" is the stepping of my 146 (0546) and it doesn't even come close to 2.7Ghz...ack

Good to see the thread is still very active









Thanks for the compliment and the welcome.









With regards to my opty 146's stepping, I'll forgot; but I'll check later.


----------



## JEmmaB

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Well there is probably a lot people who purchased a 939 rig like myself. I had a duron 800mhz socket A and I tried to play Delta force Black Hawk Down and that made me do the research for a new computer. So I purchased the dfi nf4 sli dr after about a week of mobo reviews. I could not believe how fast the system was. I mean there was no lag time, it played any game and was very stable and that's still the case today. I'm sure there is a lot of people who would like to hang on to the 939's for this very reason.









It's the same for me.









The 1st DFI mobo I owned was the LANParty nF4 SLI-DR Expert; I instantly fell in love with it.









Ended up owning 2 Experts and a Venus #533.


----------



## Blitz6804

JEmmaB is now officially on the off-site roster. Again, I reiterate my welcoming and my congratulations regards that air-cooled 185. I am curious, what stability tests you have passed with it?

For the record, the URL for the club off-site roster has JUST been shortened. (Yes, right after I posted this.) It is now: http://blitzkreig6804.webs.com/OCN939.html


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Welcome, JEmmaB!








Good to see our members have already given you a grand welcome.









That Opteron 185 is mightily impressive! On air, no less.

In the interest of saving space (as there is actually a limit on how many characters/symbols we can fit in one post), I have put only one of your four listed overclocks. It's a great thing Blitz has his offline roster for multiple entries.

Speaking of which, when the time comes, I will cull multiple entries from the roster, keeping only a member's best S939 OC on there. This will allow for more space for more members. It's actually amazing that our Club keeps expanding in membership.

We must be doing a few things right here.









Well done, people! This Club is all about you.


----------



## JEmmaB

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
JEmmaB is now officially on the off-site roster. Again, I reiterate my welcoming and my congratulations regards that air-cooled 185. I am curious, what stability tests you have passed with it?

For the record, the URL for the club off-site roster has JUST been shortened. (Yes, right after I posted this.) It is now: http://blitzkreig6804.webs.com/OCN939.html

Thanks a lot for including me on the off-site roster.









With regards to my air-cooled opty 185; it was on a "suicide-run". I was trying to find out how far I could o'c it on air.

For the stability tests; you can check my runs at hwbot.org; from my sig.


----------



## JEmmaB

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Welcome, JEmmaB!







Good to see our members have already given you a grand welcome.









That Opteron 185 is mightily impressive! On air, no less.

In the interest of saving space (as there is actually a limit on how many characters/symbols we can fit in one post), I have put only one of your four listed overclocks. It's a great thing Blitz has his offline roster for multiple entries.

Speaking of which, when the time comes, I will cull multiple entries from the roster, keeping only a member's best S939 OC on there. This will allow for more space for more members. It's actually amazing that our Club keeps expanding in membership.

We must be doing a few things right here.









Well done, people! This Club is all about you.









Thanks! And yes a lot of the members extended to me their very warm welcome.









Sorry about the multiple images on my post.


----------



## Blitz6804

There is nothing wrong with your images. He was just letting you know he can only list your 185 due to character limits. I have all four.

OCN limits you to 10,000 characters and 38 pictures per post. (If I remember right.)

Aside: It is a shame I still cant sell my 3850 AGP. I could use the money.


----------



## N2Gaming

I tried to oc my opty 180 to a point where it would not post. so I cleared cmos and re-did bios settings and tried to boot. system booted but right after the windows boot screen and just before you get into windows the monitor green led would go orange and give no display. I could hear the hdd working and hdd led lighting up and turning off but no video. I tried rebooting several times same thing. so I tried a repair by booting from xp cd and typed fixboot. now system wont boot and says ntloader missing. does anyone know how to fix this.:swearing: I have terrible luck w/overclocking.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


The biggest reason I went nvidia over ati was actually based on warranty. I think the biggest warranty an ATI manufacturer supplied was 3 years, and that was ASUS.


Actually, VisionTek has lifetime warranty.








Next time I'm getting a new ATI card, it'll probably be one of theirs.


----------



## Blitz6804

As does Sapphire on most of their models.

Diamond on the other hand... 1 year. Not to mention poorly designed cards. Why change a card from reference?

Because of the different design, my PWMs were over heating with the IceberQ6 installed. So now I am back on a stock cooler.


----------



## JEmmaB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I tried to oc my opty 180 to a point where it would not post. so I cleared cmos and re-did bios settings and tried to boot. system booted but right after the windows boot screen and just before you get into windows the monitor green led would go orange and give no display. I could hear the hdd working and hdd led lighting up and turning off but no video. I tried rebooting several times same thing. so I tried a repair by booting from xp cd and typed fixboot. now system wont boot and says ntloader missing. does anyone know how to fix this.:swearing: I have terrible luck w/overclocking.


This frequently happens due to overclock.









Most disables their hard drives when overclocking to prevent this; I myself experience this a couple of times.

And so starts a painful process of OS reinstallation.


----------



## N2Gaming

I don't mind the reinstall but I need my email files. is there a way to retrieve my msgs in outlook express?


----------



## JEmmaB

You can try the recovery/fix option of WinXP so that you can access Windows.

And I've searched a bit and found out that there are tools/software that can recover outlook express messages in the case of hard drive failure. But I have'nt tried any of them though.


----------



## N2Gaming

If only I know how to do that I would try it.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Thinker or Joe would know best, but there is HDD recovery software out there that will get the stored data off the goofed HDD. I really think you should try a repair first. I have never had a bad OC that I couldn't repair. It just takes some doing and patience.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well here's an update on the X2 Manny situation. It's alive, but barely so. It acts as if its thermal throttling, but temps don't go above 50*C (2.20GHz, 1.20v). Anyways, I thought I'd share some pictures of that setup before I close it up and hook it to my TV...it shall work good enough till I can upgrade it to AM2.

Specs:

Jetway 939GT-4 SLI G
Athlon X2 3800+ Manny @ 2.20GHz, 1.20v (damaged)
Stock Opteron Heatpipe cooler with modded 120mm fan
2x512MB Geil Ultra X DDR400 (2-2-2-5-1T timings)
2x512MB Kingston Hyper-X DDR400 (2-2-2-5-2T timings)
RAM @ DDR366 2-3-2-5-2T (stupid 939 quirk and 4 sticks of RAM!)
Sapphire HD3450 1GB (was cheapest for that range so don't yell at me about 1GB)
Leadtek HD Cinema Tuner and remote
Apevia X-Master HTPC case & 500w PSU
Samsung DVDRW with Lightscribe (SATA)
WD 80GB SATA HDD
32" JVC CRT TV
Also it was stable for 19.5 hours. Didn't bother with a screenshot as its not a huge deal....its just a TV computer. I'm sure you guys can believe me on the stability of it....I wouldn't say its stable if its not.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


There is nothing wrong with your images. He was just letting you know he can only list your 185 due to character limits. I have all four.

OCN limits you to 10,000 characters and 38 pictures per post. (If I remember right.)

Aside: It is a shame I still cant sell my 3850 AGP. I could use the money.


Blitz, how much are you trying to sell the 3850 for?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


Actually, VisionTek has lifetime warranty.








Next time I'm getting a new ATI card, it'll probably be one of theirs.











Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


As does Sapphire on most of their models.

Diamond on the other hand... 1 year. Not to mention poorly designed cards. Why change a card from reference?

Because of the different design, my PWMs were over heating with the IceberQ6 installed. So now I am back on a stock cooler.


Now that I didn't notice, I thought sapphire was a definite 1 or 2 year, and then the Visiontek's were out of my price range.


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I don't mind the reinstall but I need my email files. is there a way to retrieve my msgs in outlook express?


If you have another PC with an internet connection and a cd burner I would recommend downloading an Ubuntu iso and burning it to a disc. Pop it into the optical drive on your main rig, boot form it, and select the live cd option. Ubuntu 8.04 will be able to access your windows drive as long as the HDD isn't physically damaged.

I use an Ubuntu live cd all of the time to recover data from borked windows installs. You can get it here


----------



## Blitz6804

Pez: $110 shipped. Anywhere in the continental US with delivery confirmation and insurance, outside the continental US varies, but Alaska, Hawaii, and Canada are about $120 with the same amenities.

Pioneerisloud: I am simultaneously happy and sad over the TV computer. It is good to know it is not all-the-way dead, but merely damaged. It is sad to know it is in fact damaged. At least you have it running again.

N2Gaming: If a repair installation does not work, look into a Linux LiveCD. You should be able to boot into that (it loads into the system RAM, not the hard drive) to then be able to access your outlook folder. I am on a Vista PC right now, so I cannot tell you the exact folder path. When I get home, I will try to find the folder you need. This may help replace the missing ntldr.


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


N2Gaming: If a repair installation does not work, look into a Linux LiveCD. You should be able to boot into that (it loads into the system RAM, not the hard drive) to then be able to access your outlook folder. I am on a Vista PC right now, so I cannot tell you the exact folder path. When I get home, I will try to find the folder you need. This may help replace the missing ntldr.


That's exactly what I suggested in the post above yours.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah; simulpost for the lose!


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Yeah; simulpost for the lose!


Lol it happens. I do it a lot of times when someone has a specific issue that I've had before. I post the solution quickly without looking to see if its already been answered or not (not on purpose mind you).


----------



## N2Gaming

ok thanks for the suggestions. Im by far no IT pro or software pro. So I really don't know how do do what you suggested. I can download and burn iso file but would that do the same as xp cd.


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


ok thanks for the suggestions. Im by far no IT pro or software pro. So I really don't know how do do what you suggested. I can download and burn iso file but would that do the same as xp cd.


What a live cd does basically is allow you to run a Linux (in this case) desktop environment without having to actually install the os itself. From the Linux desktop you will be able to access your windows drive (via the "Places" menu), access the internet, and backup/archive any files you need to save before doing a format and reinstall of windows.

I hope this helps.


----------



## StormX2

yay I am still alive!

and so is my computer lol


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Iceman0803*


What a live cd does basically is allow you to run a Linux (in this case) desktop environment without having to actually install the os itself. From the Linux desktop you will be able to access your windows drive (via the "Places" menu), access the internet, and backup/archive any files you need to save before doing a format and reinstall of windows.

I hope this helps.










 is there instructions on the internet or cd that I can look on how to do this or do I just boot computer from cdrom and it loads and boots os to memory?


----------



## pez

You could just do what I did and sign up on ubuntu and request their newest version. It's free. They tell you 10 weeks, but it only took mine about a month at most. They even gave me cool stickers







.


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


is there instructions on the internet or cd that I can look on how to do this or do I just boot computer from cdrom and it loads and boots os to memory?


Yep as long as you burned the iso correctly (as a cd image and not a data file.)


----------



## Blitz6804

Pez: That is a mixed bag. One version got to me in a week, one got to me in 2 months, and one never came.

N2Gaming: The file you need to get a copy of is located at C:\\Documents and Settings\\USERNAME\\Local Settings\\Application Data\\Microsoft\\Outlook. The file is called "Outlook.pst." Copy that to a thumbdrive, and see if you can import your emails on another computer. If you can, then you can safely reformat the HDD without worrying about losing your emails.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


now system wont boot and says ntloader missing. does anyone know how to fix this.:swearing: I have terrible luck w/overclocking.


N2Gaming, have you tried inserting the Windows XP CD, going to the recovery _console_ and copying the files back over to the "c drive"? Try the commands below:

_copy d:\\i386\
tldr c:\\

copy d:\\i386\
tdetect.com c:\\_

Drive letter D represents your optical drive.

Let us know

Pioneer, nice looking rig. The cable management is very clean









Good luck guys!


----------



## N2Gaming

Not yet. I'll try that.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Pez: That is a mixed bag. One version got to me in a week, one got to me in 2 months, and one never came.

N2Gaming: The file you need to get a copy of is located at C







ocuments and SettingsUSERNAMELocal SettingsApplication DataMicrosoftOutlook. The file is called "Outlook.pst." Copy that to a thumbdrive, and see if you can import your emails on another computer. If you can, then you can safely reformat the HDD without worrying about losing your emails.


Ahh. I was wondering, because when I got it in the mail, it was around the same time I was expecting the RAM from you, and I thought: "why does this look like it's really official?" Then I realized what it was when the sticker fell out at my feet lol.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, have you tried inserting the Windows XP CD, going to the recovery _console_ and copying the files back over to the "c drive"? Try the commands below:

_copy d:i386ntldr c:_

_copy d:i386ntdetect.com c:_

Drive letter D represents your optical drive.

Let us know

Pioneer, nice looking rig. The cable management is very clean









Good luck guys!


Well magically the drive decided to boot w/out any help but I still have the problem with the video not working after windows boots. it's not the video card cause I'm using the same rig now w/a diff hdd and every thing is fine. low lever and reload is inevitable for me any way. Can I use two different hdd's each having a copy of xp on it and still boot or will the system get confused due to having two os's?

quote: N2Gaming: The file you need to get a copy of is located at C:\\Documents and Settings\\USERNAME\\Local Settings\\Application Data\\Microsoft\\Outlook. The file is called "Outlook.pst." Copy that to a thumbdrive, and see if you can import your emails on another computer. If you can, then you can safely reformat the HDD without worrying about losing your emails. end quote:

I'll try that


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Well magically the drive decided to boot w/out any help but I still have the problem with the video not working after windows boots. it's not the video card cause I'm using the same rig now w/a diff hdd and every thing is fine. low lever and reload is inevitable for me any way. Can I use two different hdd's each having a copy of xp on it and still boot or will the system get confused due to having two os's?


N2Gaming, sorry if I missed it but what kind of video card issues are you having?

In regards to your hard drive question, the machine will boot from what whatever drive is listed first in the boot priority(BIOS option). It also helps that you have designated each drive via master and slave jumpers.

Hope that helps


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, sorry if I missed it but what kind of video card issues are you having?

In regards to your hard drive question, the machine will boot from what whatever drive is listed first in the boot priority(BIOS option). It also helps that you have designated each drive via master and slave jumpers.

Hope that helps









First off let me extend a great big thank you to every one for all the help.









Ok I'm using sata drives so no jumpers involved but I'll make sure to set the bootable drive to first in hdd boot priority if it comes down to that.

Ragarding the video problem on the other hdd that started after a bad oc. well the pc posts and boots up just fine. the video goes dead when xp is booted into windows. I can hear the hdd moving data, resting and then moving more data as it's running start up apps but the video is blanc. the video goes blanc just after the little night rider screen just before you get into windows. so little scrolling bar and then poof the little led on my monitor changes from green to orange w/blanc screen as windows finish's loading. that's it. I can push the sleep &/or the power off button on my keyboard and the system turns off. When I wake it up from sleep the video is still blank. I had to clear cmos and forgot to enable sli aparture in bios before I booted up the first time and maybe that's what caused the problem. I'll pull one card out. oh wait that requires 15 min. of moving sli jumpers. well if you think it's worth a shot I try using only one vga to see if that fixes it.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Ragarding the video problem on the other hdd that started after a bad oc. well the pc posts and boots up just fine. the video goes dead when xp is booted into windows. I can hear the hdd moving data, resting and then moving more data as it's running start up apps but the video is blanc. the video goes blanc just after the little night rider screen just before you get into windows. so little scrolling bar and then poof the little led on my monitor changes from green to orange w/blanc screen as windows finish's loading. that's it. I can push the sleep &/or the power off button on my keyboard and the system turns off. When I wake it up from sleep the video is still blank. I had to clear cmos and forgot to enable sli aparture in bios before I booted up the first time and maybe that's what caused the problem. I'll pull one card out. oh wait that requires 15 min. of moving sli jumpers. well if you think it's worth a shot I try using only one vga to see if that fixes it.

N2Gaming, are the video issues still occurring when booting into Safe Mode? Try booting into _VGA mode_ (hit F8 constantly after POST until you get a list of options). After it's booted into windows, go to display properties -> settings and change the refresh rate to 60Hz.

Let us know if that works

Good luck


----------



## iandroo888

hmm my cpu vcore voltages fluctuate quite a bit. not sure if it did this prior to changing psu. its fluctuating like .7v


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
hmm my cpu vcore voltages fluctuate quite a bit. not sure if it did this prior to changing psu. its fluctuating like .7v









Have you looked to see if there are any voltmods for your board?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, are the video issues still occurring when booting into Safe Mode? Try booting into _VGA mode_ (hit F8 constantly after POST until you get a list of options). After it's booted into windows, go to display properties -> settings and change the refresh rate to 60Hz.

Let us know if that works

Good luck










mucho gracios and thank you. I tried f8 before I asked you guys for help but my system booted up to fast and I was not hitting f8 quick enough. Any way, I booted into safe mode the first time and screwed up the resolution I next I booted w/vga enabled changed properties uninstalled drivers. Then booted up and reloaded drivers. Whala I figured it had to be something simple but did not know what to do. Thank's.

Regarding Ubuntu: I burned a disk and it loads linux but when I go to start with cd it claims cd error. lol I don't know what the heck. Any way I'll play around w/Ubuntu on another system if the disk was burned ok.


----------



## Blitz6804

Glad to hear you fixed it N2Gaming. Sometimes things just go wrong and we infuriate ourselves until we fix them. Fortunately, your period was shorter than most.


----------



## N2Gaming

Yeah. I guess it would be a good idea for me to take the advice I gave to Bogey a while ago. I said he should use a hdd he's not worried about corrupting the os on when it comes to oc'n. All in all I'm glad I did not jump to any conclusions and walked away for while more than once so that I would not get frustrated and reload os. Thanks. I gotta say this much about OCN. We are lucky to be part of a great forum where people actually respond to your posts with lots of advice from experience. I give it two thumbs up.







Cheers with RootBeers









Is this a good enough sound card for the money http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...=70SB046A00000 or should I get a cheaper one or more expensive one. I'm use to onboard sound and have never shelled out the dough for a sand card.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes, that is a very good sound card. It is the modern itineration of an X-Fi ExtremeMusic, which is of course X-Fi Platinum without the 5.25" bay module.

You would be quite happy with the sound quality of the X-Fi, but let it be known if you ever want to upgrade to Vista, Creative has a spotty history. To be able to use my card in Vista, I am using the 64-bit Daniel K's.


----------



## iandroo888

no volt mods. this is my original a8n32-sli mobo. nothing has been changed. never did any mods.

just checked with latest version of cpu-z. it jumps from 1.392 - 1.456V


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Yes, that is a very good sound card. It is the modern itineration of an X-Fi ExtremeMusic, which is of course X-Fi Platinum without the 5.25" bay module.

You would be quite happy with the sound quality of the X-Fi, but let it be known if you ever want to upgrade to Vista, Creative has a spotty history. To be able to use my card in Vista, I am using the 64-bit Daniel K's.


I'm glad you said that cause I have a chance to get a great deal on 64 bit ultimate.









I found this sound card for $99 on ebay but It's from an individual and manufacturer will not honor the warranty. Do these cards go bad or are they pretty fault tolerant.









Is vista better then xp when it comes to gaming and aps w/the exception of dealing with driver issues.









Blitz: wanna hear something funny? xp wont allow your emailed aps to run. Windows found these 3 files to potentially be harmful. but I can use them on my xp non updated expert board. that's wierd.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


it jumps from 1.392 - 1.456V


Well, at least it's not .7 as you said earlier


----------



## iandroo888

i meant 0.07... i thught .7 sounded wierd.. but uhhh.. is that still ok? thats a pretty big jump


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Yeah. I guess it would be a good idea for me to take the advice I gave to Bogey a while ago. I said he should use a hdd he's not worried about corrupting the os on when it comes to oc'n. All in all I'm glad I did not jump to any conclusions and walked away for while more than once so that I would not get frustrated and reload os. Thanks. I gotta say this much about OCN. We are lucky to be part of a great forum where people actually respond to your posts with lots of advice from experience. I give it two thumbs up.







Cheers with RootBeers









Is this a good enough sound card for the money http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...=70SB046A00000 or should I get a cheaper one or more expensive one. I'm use to onboard sound and have never shelled out the dough for a sand card.

Personally I'd go with this sound card. You can use "modded" drivers which essentially make it into an X-Fi XTreme Music, which is just a software based X-Fi (instead of Hardware). Either way, just upgrading from onboard audio, you'll notice a HUGE difference. I'm happy enough with my free Soundblaster Live! with the Daniel K drivers. Sound quality is AMAZING vs. onboard audio...and this is like a $5-10 new card these days. That's my recommendation, and it will be my future sound card as well.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I'm glad you said that cause I have a chance to get a great deal on 64 bit ultimate.









I found this sound card for $99 on ebay but Itâ€™s from an individual and manufacturer will not honor the warranty. Do these cards go bad or are they pretty fault tolerant.









Is vista better then xp when it comes to gaming and aps w/the exception of dealing with driver issues.









Blitz: wanna hear something funny? xp wont allow your emailed aps to run. Windows found these 3 files to potentially be harmful. but I can use them on my xp non updated expert board. that's wierd.









Vista vs. XP. That's really your choice these days. With Windows 7 lurking so close, if you don't have Vista yet, there's really no reason to switch. However if you already have Vista (or can get it CHEAP), or if you've got the money for it....its definitely worth a try. IMO its much better than XP, and you'll have DX10 support (which is nice in some games). I've personally been on Vista for quite a while now and been loving it since I switched. Much snappier than XP. When I switched I was on a 7600GT, 1GB Corsair ValueRAM, and my Opty...and even with that, Vista was snappier than XP was. And with SP1 on Vista, there's no gaming performance difference than XP anymore either.

Just my $0.02







.

*Update on my X2 HTPC:*
Its somehow still alive and kicking. I'm testing stability currently, and will provide more pictures and screenshots JUST FOR YOU GUYS to prove stability, and to show the latest mods I have done to it. It still acts as if its thermal throttling though....however froggy's Opteron does the same thing







. I just don't understand it. Now my Opteron and our P4 HTPC are the only fully functional rigs in the house!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
i meant 0.07... i thught .7 sounded wierd.. but uhhh.. is that still ok? thats a pretty big jump

Sorry for double post.....

But iandroo....my board has quite the odd voltages as well. I set it to 1.35v and it jumps as high as 1.45v under idle, and 1.39v under load. It seems normal for this particular board. If you don't want to be bothered with a vmod, just adjust the voltage accordingly...like I do. Its a minor issue and can be dealt with by just adjusting the voltage a little lower.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Personally I'd go with this sound card. You can use "modded" drivers which essentially make it into an X-Fi XTreme Music, which is just a software based X-Fi (instead of Hardware)

I did a little research and from what I understand. the reason for having hardware based is to free up system ram for sound card and gain 5 - 10 fps in games like crysis. otherwise I would go with the $5.00 dell sound blaster on ebay. Please correct me if I'm wrong. as far as ultimate I can get it for $30.00


----------



## iandroo888

Vista is so convenient now! i wiped the OS drive on my opty rig. reinstalled vista. it got drivers for networking. went on windows update. it found all updates and up to date drivers! i was like weee! also! the video drivers are gpu2 foldable!









ah. oh well. im pretty sure u told me about that before. im just playin with oc'ing this rig again cuz new power supply with better amperage ratings. maybe more stable voltages. gonna be selling it soon. already have a buyer.

using everest to check voltages. the 3.3, 5, and 12 seems a lot more stabler than my old psu. yay.


----------



## N2Gaming

Does any one know if the opteron 852 is a 940 pin and if it will work in am2 or am2+ mobo cause I just found this and looks like a decent deal. whatcha think? http://cgi.ebay.com/HP-DL585-G2-4x-2...QQcmdZViewItem


----------



## JEmmaB

Quote:



Opteron 800-series "Athens" (E4, 90 nm)
All models support: MMX, SSE, SSE2, SSE3, Enhanced 3DNow!, NX bit, AMD64 (AMD's x86-64 implementation) 
All models support up to Registered PC3200 DDR SDRAM 
All models support up to eight-processor configurations

Opteron 852 2600 MHz 1024 KiB 1000 MHz 13x 1.35/1.4V 92.6W Socket 940 OSA852FAA5BM


Opteron 852 is compatible only with the original Socket 940; not with AM2/AM2+.

But the server being sold at ebay looks like a good deal.


----------



## Blitz6804

N2Gaming: I have never heard of XP preventing programs from running. Vista maybe, but never XP. As JEmmaB has said, the Opteron 852 is for Socket 940, not Socket AM2. Unless I am mistaken, that would be an 8-way Opteron, such that you can install it with 7 brethren in an 8-socket board.

Pioneerisloud: Finding the Daniel K drivers are getting harder daily, likely because of the gray area of the market share they serve. Further, I disagree with the "snappiness" remark. I find Vista to be much more sluggish than XP on equal hardware. Boot/shutdown times are longer. For the first 30 minutes or so of running it feels stubborn. After that, I would say that it is about on par with XP. Something I must say about Vista: I much prefer the eye candy and improved security.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Alright, so it may not be the best out there, but it should do the job just fine







. CPU appears to be thermal throttling 24/7, but at least I've managed to make it WORK!

Specs:
AMD Athlon X2 3800+ Manchester @ 2.40GHz, 1.34v
Jetway 939GT-4 SLI-G
Modded Stock Opteron Heatpipe cooler
2x512MB Geil Ultra-X DDR400 (2-2-2-5-1T stock)
2x512MB Kingston Hyper-X DDR400 (2-3-2-5-2T stock)
2GB RAM @ DDR400 (2-3-2-5-2T, DDR333 being stock)
Apevia X-Master case & PSU
Modded 120mm Raidmax GPU fan
Samsung SATA DVDRW w/ Lightsribe
WD 80GB SATA HDD
Monster Moddz 5.25" fan controller

This machine is 100% SILENT! Even with all those fans in there. The only thing I can hear on it is the hard drive. Pictures and proof of stability below. I know its only 1 hour stable...but it lasted 24 hours last night at these settings. Also...cable management was TONS better...but then I got fan happy. And since I can't actually see inside the case, I don't really care TOO much about it. Its still tons better than it could have been. Also, Cool N' Quiet is on and active. Knocks the processor all the way down to 1.20GHz when idle!


----------



## pez

Mmmm well blitz, seems the RAM is going to be the next thing I get after my new game







. That way I can satisfy my 64 bit OS







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


N2Gaming: I have never heard of XP preventing programs from running. Vista maybe, but never XP. As JEmmaB has said, the Opteron 852 is for Socket 940, not Socket AM2. Unless I am mistaken, that would be an 8-way Opteron, such that you can install it with 7 brethren in an 8-socket board.


Here is a screen shot from when I try to use any of these programs. http://www.overclock.net/album.php?a...pictureid=2438 I think it has something to do w/the file being an email attatchment with program files extensions like .exe. They work on my computer that has not been updated.









I alway thought socket 940 and am2 was the same. Guess not.


----------



## Blitz6804

No, they aren't. True they both have 940 pins. True they both run K8s. However, AM2+ (which also has 940 pins) can also run K10s. AM3, also bearing 940 pins, or at least, being pin-compatible, will run K11s.

You are using 64-bit XP, an OS I have never before dealt with. This may be the problem. However, I have a 64-bit Vista, so who knows. I can try sending again but this time renaming the EXEs as I originally intended. (But ended up not doing since gmail did not let me send it anyway.)


----------



## HothBase

Try compressing them into .rar (or similar) files before sending?
That's what I usually do.


----------



## Blitz6804

They were ZIPs. I might try splitting them, and then zipping them. Then he can run the BAT and recompile.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


hmm my cpu vcore voltages fluctuate quite a bit. not sure if it did this prior to changing psu. its fluctuating like .7v










Iandroo888, do you have a multimeter that you could use? The best way to find out would be to locate the Vcore reading point on your motherboard. This can be dangerous though especially if you accidentally bump something...you could potential damage/short a component. I have no idea where the reading point is at so that would require some research.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Does any one know if the opteron 852 is a 940 pin and if it will work in am2 or am2+ mobo cause I just found this and looks like a decent deal. whatcha think? http://cgi.ebay.com/HP-DL585-G2-4x-2...QQcmdZViewItem


N2Gaming, either that machine fell off a truck or is not working. A G2 starts between 4 thousand to 8 thousand dollars. I doubt that sell will meet the reserve. Besides that point those machines are very nice. There is a lot of technology involved in a Proliant. I find those to be a bit more technical then a Dell Poweredge. Only problem with a Proliant is if it breaks it's a bit more difficult to repair/diagnose. The components inside are also expensive. The HBA(host bus adapter) cards alone are probably several hundred dollars. I replaced a P4800 controller out of a DL380 G5 the other day...the card was $700! Imagine one of these going out at home and you having to replace it








This would be a nice machine for a lab or if you're looking for *experience*. My personal con for these particular Proliants are the drive speeds. You can only get these in 10K 2.5" flavor.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Yeah I kind of figured it was a expesive machine being a 4u brand name rig. It's probably used as a telephony server or web host/teleophony server. I use to assemble these when they were still using slot cpu's. those sucked a big rotten egg. I was just thinking I could get the rig and sell the parts and keep the goodies like cpu's hdd's. It turns out socket 940 wont work in my am2+ rigs.









Has any one experianced this problem? after I wake up my pc from a sleep state 3 of the 4 debug led's stay lit up see http://www.overclock.net/album.php?a...pictureid=2439 I only does it after waking from a sleep state any reboot will turn em all off.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Yeah I kind of figured it was a expesive machine being a 4u brand name rig. It's probably used as a telephony server or web host/teleophony server. I use to assemble these when they were still using slot cpu's. those sucked a big rotten egg. I was just thinking I could get the rig and sell the parts and keep the goodies like cpu's hdd's. It turns out socket 940 wont work in my am2+ rigs.









Has any one experianced this problem? after I wake up my pc from a sleep state 3 of the 4 debug led's stay lit up see http://www.overclock.net/album.php?a...pictureid=2439 I only does it after waking from a sleep state any reboot will turn em all off.










N2Gaming, well if the price is right you could always purchase the DL585 and use it in a lab for experience. Trust me you'll learn a lot on a machine like that...but if an internal component decides to go south it'll cost quite a bit to replace. You could always ask the seller if the machine is still under warranty. Most of those servers have next day support (also depends when it was purchased).

Good question about the sleep state. I have never taken my DFI board into sleep mode so I can't tell you if that has occurred on my board or not. Perhaps other DFI users can shed some light on this question. I wonder if Joe has done any testing on this









Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, Good question about the sleep state. I have never taken my DFI board into sleep mode so I can't tell you if that has occurred on my board or not. Perhaps other DFI users can shed some light on this question. I wonder if Joe has done any testing on this









Good luck


 I only noticed it because one day my rig would not boot into windows with 2gig of ram so I removed the lid and pulled one stick of ram. After that it booted into windows just fine. I thought the board was bad. so I upped the voltage to ram all the way to 2.9 before it would boot into windows with 2 sticks. Then I thought that's not right I should be able boot into windows at stock spds with stock voltages. so I lowered voltage and used a diff hdd and tried to install windows to see if I had a bad baord. wham it loaded windows just fine at 2.6 dram volts with 2 sticks. So while I had the cover off I noticed the led's stay on after waking from sleep. I think it sleeps to ram not hdd. Any way the reason it would not boot into windows with 2gig of ram is because the logical system drive was full.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


=I think it sleeps to ram not hdd. Any way the reason it would not boot into windows with 2gig of ram is because the logical system drive was full.










N2Gaming, when your machine goes into sleep mode and comes back out, it might be resetting some settings in the BIOS which could possibly be messing up your overclock. I am not familiar with the 3 LED issue though, that is a bit strange. I do believe Joe has ran into a "sleep mode" issue before with his Asus board. If I remember right certain settings that were in saved in the BIOS were changed after coming out of sleep.

Good luck


----------



## pez

So guys, my next decision of what to buy is going to be for a monitor. Now, I'm pretty sure the 9800GT I'm getting will be able to handle games like cod4 and fallout 3 (which i just reserved





















) at 1680x1050 fine. My quirk is Crysis Warhead. Now, with my 8600gt before I did the dx9 thing, mainstream was pretty unplayable, now it's on mainstream and my monitor's native res running so smooth at probably 22+ fps on all mainstream. You think the 9800GT could do that w/ the dx9 on a 1680x1050 on at least mainstream settings. I also read that the x8/x8 and x16/x16 sli have only a 5-10% performance difference, so I think I will eventually do that. Crysis is so much more fun to play when you can play on mainstream settings, because it still looks good graphically.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
So guys, my next decision of what to buy is going to be for a monitor. Now, I'm pretty sure the 9800GT I'm getting will be able to handle games like cod4 and fallout 3 (which i just reserved





















) at 1680x1050 fine. My quirk is Crysis Warhead. Now, with my 8600gt before I did the dx9 thing, mainstream was pretty unplayable, now it's on mainstream and my monitor's native res running so smooth at probably 22+ fps on all mainstream. You think the 9800GT could do that w/ the dx9 on a 1680x1050 on at least mainstream settings. I also read that the x8/x8 and x16/x16 sli have only a 5-10% performance difference, so I think I will eventually do that. Crysis is so much more fun to play when you can play on mainstream settings, because it still looks good graphically.

Pez, personally I prefer Acer LCD monitors but probably because I've only used Acer ;P

The Acer AL2223Wd is a nice display. It does however have a TN panel which is considered "low end" for a panel type but that hasn't stopped people from purchasing it. The TN panel helps keep costs down as well.

I'm almost positive your 9800GT will be able to handle the native resolution with the games that you plan on playing.

Good luck with your purchase


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, when your machine goes into sleep mode and comes back out, it might be resetting some settings in the BIOS which could possibly be messing up your overclock. I am not familiar with the 3 LED issue though, that is a bit strange. I do believe Joe has ran into a "sleep mode" issue before with his Asus board. If I remember right certain settings that were in saved in the BIOS were changed after coming out of sleep.

Good luck









So I'm not overclocking but you think I might have a Bios option enabled/disabled that might cause the oc to fail?

Pez so that's all the gain you get from x16 x x16. well that sounds about right after I think about it and consider the scores I got on my x8 x x8 vrs my x16 x x16


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
So I'm *not overclocking* but you think I might have a *Bios option enabled/disabled that might cause the oc to fail*?

N2Gaming, sorry I'm a bit confused. Are you overclocking or not overclocking?









Coming out of sleep mode may be causing some issues with some settings in your BIOS. It's possible...especially the ram voltage (Vdimm) issue you were previously describing. Highly unlikely but it is possible....

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, sorry I'm a bit confused. Are you overclocking or not overclocking?









Coming out of sleep mode may be causing some issues with some settings in your BIOS. It's possible...especially the ram voltage (Vdimm) issue you were previously describing. Highly unlikely but it is possible....

Good luck









sorry for the confusion. I'm not overclocking. I have tried several times and I get no where. the opty 180 is not a very good overclocker from what I have tried.


----------



## pez

Yeah, I'm sorry a bit off topic, but so impressed w/ the dx9 thing in crysis that I wanted to post a SS







. If my 8600GT can do this, I'm salivating thinking about what a 9800GT will do.

As a side note, look at the RAM in my sig rig (amount) and look how much Crysis is taking up lol.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 

Good question about the sleep state. I have never taken my DFI board into sleep mode so I can't tell you if that has occurred on my board or not. Perhaps other DFI users can shed some light on this question. I wonder if Joe has done any testing on this









Good luck

N2Gaming, unfortunately, this is one thing I've not had any experience with, either in running into this particular issue or reading about in my travels across the internet. That's not to say, however, that nobody else has encountered anything similar. If I find anything remotely close to this issue, I'll post my findings here.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, when your machine goes into sleep mode and comes back out, it might be resetting some settings in the BIOS which could possibly be messing up your overclock. I am not familiar with the 3 LED issue though, that is a bit strange. I do believe Joe has ran into a "sleep mode" issue before with his Asus board. If I remember right certain settings that were in saved in the BIOS were changed after coming out of sleep.

Good luck









My ASUS A8N32-SLI Deluxe (overclocked, of course) used to have a peculiar behavior: It would go into hibernation or sleep (I've tested both states) overclocked, and when it emerged, the reference clock would be reset to default (200MHz) according to all reporting software. The CPU multiplier and HT multiplier would not change, nor would the RAM divider setting, but the HTT Clock would definitely be reset to 200MHz. It was an annoying, peculiar behavior that evaded resolution until I stumbled upon it. I reformatted my machine (and had my original A8N32-SLI RMAed), then lost my settings (and silly me, I did not write down the fix I had lucked on.

Many months down the line, I tried again to enable Hibernation in the OS, but the same problems persisted, which told me the problem was based on the board itself (and not in Windows). The solution was actually in the BIOS. Under the Power Management section, you can select sleep states there. In any setting other than S1, the behavior described above persisted. Select S1, and proper operation of Hibernation/Sleep modes are enabled.

I don't know if any of these details are pertinent to N2Gaming's issue, but hopefully someone might have experienced the same A8N32-SLI Deluxe Hibernation/Sleep HTT Clock reset issue as well. I hope this helps someone else.









However, upon reading more into your issue, N2Gaming, it appears that the problem might actually be the RAM, or maybe a corrupted page file. If my understanding of Hibernation is correct, the way it works is it loads all data and settings into RAM, which after which it is stored on the page file. If the RAM is not set up properly (and DFIs are not forgiving when it comes to RAM setup), something may have gotten corrupted and this data may have been saved onto the page file. I don't know if you've checked your RAM's integrity lately, but I have to confess that I am paranoid when it comes to RAM. When things start misbehaving in certain ways, one of the first places I look is the RAM.

Good luck in your quest for solutions.


----------



## N2Gaming

well I have not tried to fix it yet but I'll try a few things in a while. here is what the manual say's inregards to power management for any one who might be interested. http://www.overclock.net/album.php?a...pictureid=2447 & http://www.overclock.net/album.php?a...pictureid=2446

I just enabled hibernation from power Options with in the controll panel and next time I put it to sleep I check to see if it helps other wise I'll change the s1 and s3 so that it's one or the other but not both. maybe that has something to do with it? it's not a big problem but I don't want it to cause any problems if you know what I mean.









Edit: I can tell you it was not the hibernation from with in windows. The S1 option by it self in the Bios just puts the pc to sleep with all the power still on but disables any keyboard funtions like wake up power off etc. I can put it to sleep with key baord sleep button but have to wake it up with chassis power button. that's wierd. I'll try S3 and repost findings.

Edit: Ok S3 suspend to ram is back to the way I like it. Push sleep button system goes to sleep. push Cntrl + F12 and system wakes up. However the 3 led's stay on. Hmmm I have another Idea I'll try and repost w/results. thinking about Cntrl + F12

Edit: ok I was thinking about disabling power on from key board but nope that's not it either. in the mean time I found this becasue I diabled ACPI SRAT and it reset my bios settings ater saving bios settings.

Here is a lot info if your bored that could be right up your allie. http://www.amd.com/us-en/assets/cont...docs/25759.pdf


----------



## Blitz6804

N2Gaming, I sent you the programs in the mail using batch files this time. Did they work? Have you checked your email?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
N2Gaming, I sent you the programs in the mail using batch files this time. Did they work? Have you checked your email?

give me a little time to try them. I'm working on a post right now to point to another forum we all might find useful. Thank you for that by the way.









Edit:
Here is a sight I found by google'n ACPI SRAT. I was trying to disable ACPI and it would reset all my bios settings after I did F10/save/reboot. So I googled it to see what it was and got side tracked into a web page that looks pretty cool and links up to another forum to possibly help users make changes to bios settings.









http://www.lejabeach.com/DFI/dfinf4u...finf4bios.html

http://www.rebelshavenforum.com/sis-bin/ultimatebb.cgi

http://www.rebelshavenforum.com/sis-...;f=52;t=000126

*Here are a couple of nice links that explain ram in depth with regards to the type of chips ram models use.*

http://www.techpowerup.com/memdb/

http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=372050

Man what is this guy below smoking x2 4800+ for $335.00 look







http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...E:B:SS:US:1123


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
N2Gaming, I sent you the programs in the mail using batch files this time. Did they work? Have you checked your email?

Sorry for the double post. I tried and the same thing happens. I guess I'll have to start with finding some good ram to run in the board. Now if I can find the page where joe explained what type of ram works good w/sli dr & expert. "I think he said tccd" Then I can try to get some ram to help w/my overclock. Then I'll worry about stability tests at that time. I need to reload os any way and I'm sure when I do I'll be able to use the programs and all efforts will not have been waisted. Thank you for your time and effort. rep is in order


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
The solution was actually in the BIOS. Under the Power Management section, you can select sleep states there. In any setting other than S1, the behavior described above persisted. Select S1, and proper operation of Hibernation/Sleep modes are enabled.

Joe, thank you for clarifying. Interesting info









N2Gaming, thanks for the helpful links!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Joe, thank you for clarifying. Interesting info









N2Gaming, thanks for the helpful links!


No problem, thlnk3r. I have to say, though, that this particular fix may not be true for all systems. I wish I remembered to test that setting on the Biostar TForce 6100-939 that you now have; it was also afflicted with that behavior.

Interestingly, though, neither of my Abit motherboards (the AT8-32X that Blitz bought from me, and my parents' KN8-SLI) have ever exhibited that behavior. Neither did my dad's ASUS A8V-E SE.









That's one thing I shall have to find out about the CFX3200-DR, as well as with a couple of other DFIs I have here...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


That's one thing I shall have to find out about the CFX3200-DR, as well as with a couple of other DFIs I have here...










Joe, ahhh something else to add to the CFX3200-DR testing crusade


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Indeed.

Hey, at least I finally was able to get that thing running stable at stock!










How I won the stock cooling contest with that thing, doing things the cheap and dirty way, I truly don't know!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Hey, at least I finally was able to get that thing running stable at stock!










Joe, why does that sentence just sound weird..."stable at stock" (ie. no overclock) LOL









That board would truly drive me crazy...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Joe, why does that sentence just sound weird..."stable at stock" (ie. no overclock) LOL









That board would truly drive me crazy...


It IS a rather strange turn of phrase, isn't it?









For sure, though, it's no exaggeration. You know (as does Blitz) of all the weirdness and drama that that motherboard is really capable of. Perhaps I'm unlucky and I got a temperamental one, but my research on this particular motherboard suggests that it really is a demanding piece of equipment.

I shall have to resume my adventure with mine soon.


----------



## N2Gaming

thlnk3r said:


> Joe, why does that sentence just sound weird..."stable at stock" (ie. no overclock) LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Too funny...
Click to expand...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

N2G, believe me, I sometimes don't see the funny side of things when it comes to that statement.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 







N2G, believe me, I sometimes don't see the funny side of things when it comes to that statement.










Ironically, I'm living that statement. My dfi boards are suppose to be one of the best overclockers and yet I'm not even close to seeing the overclocking potential. So I found it funny that some one as gifted and experienced as you would struggle through problems w/a mobo at stock spd's, that's all.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Bah, I'm neither "gifted" nor all that "experienced" at this game, to be perfectly honest.









For sure, though, these S939 DFIs are definitely not for casual overclockers. A patient, methodical approach is essential, as is a huge appetite (or tolerance) for frustration. A S939 LANParty series DFI's biggest strength in the hands of a truly knowledgeable and experienced user is also its biggest weakness when it's being used by someone less committed to the dark art of overclocking, and that is the sheer amount of BIOS settings available for adjustment. This is specifically true for the RAM tuning section.

What this facility for adjustment buys for you is the ability to tune your system precisely. Unfortunately, if even a single crucial setting is maladjusted, it will simply irritate you; the motherboard won't pass POST, and you have to reset your CMOS. This really isn't conducive to an enjoyable overclocking experience.

This is perhaps why I fixate on RAM settings when it comes to these DFI LANParty boards. Of course, there are some boards in the range that are quite forgiving; thlnk3r's SLI-DR, which used to be mine, actually, is an excellent aberration, as is my Ultra-D (which I'm selling, by the way).

The CFX3200-DR, though, is definitely not. It punishes you if it's not set up properly. I spent so much time researching settings for my RAM in that motherboard, and it's finally behaved. But the experience was frustrating, so I had to step away from that board just to regain my enthusiasm for it.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Iandroo888, do you have a multimeter that you could use? The best way to find out would be to locate the Vcore reading point on your motherboard. This can be dangerous though especially if you accidentally bump something...you could potential damage/short a component. I have no idea where the reading point is at so that would require some research.

.........

Good luck









u just said nothing after all that lol.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Yeah, I'm sorry a bit off topic, but so impressed w/ the dx9 thing in crysis that I wanted to post a SS







. If my 8600GT can do this, I'm salivating thinking about what a 9800GT will do.

As a side note, look at the RAM in my sig rig (amount) and look how much Crysis is taking up lol.










nice. what settings? high? or ultra high? or med? i have crysis set on high with medium shaders. runs really well. i cant wait to build new rig to see what it can do with gtx260


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


u just said nothing after all that lol.

nice. what settings? high? or ultra high? or med? i have crysis set on high with medium shaders. runs really well. i cant wait to build new rig to see what it can do with gtx260


It's on all mainstream with a resolution of 1280x1024. The game is so much more fun when you can play it smoothly. I can't wait for my new card. 2 more days!


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Bah, I'm neither "gifted" nor all that "experienced" at this game, to be perfectly honest. 










To quote you against yourself: "I call sheins." - Joe in GTalk nearly daily

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


For sure, though, these S939 DFIs are definitely not for casual overclockers. A patient, methodical approach is essential, as is a huge appetite (or tolerance) for frustration. A S939 LANParty series DFI's biggest strength in the hands of a truly knowledgeable and experienced user is also its biggest weakness when it's being used by someone less committed to the dark art of overclocking, and that is the sheer amount of BIOS settings available for adjustment. This is specifically true for the RAM tuning section.


This is less true on the AM2 offerings. However, it is still more powerful and finicky than my Abit Slt A, my Asus Skt A, my Gigabyte Skt 939, my Asus Skt 939, and my Abit 939. Once you get them running however, they are outstanding boards. They tend to feature far more tweaks than comparable boards from competitors. The end result of this is that you can (generally) do things on them thought impossible for other boards. The best example of this is Poser's 4 GB of RAM at DDR 500+ on his DFI Expert.


----------



## nategr8ns

Pez, now all you need is a bigger monitor and it will look one and a half times as good







.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
To quote you against yourself: "I call sheins." - Joe in GTalk nearly daily

This is less true on the AM2 offerings. However, it is still more powerful and finicky than my Abit Slt A, my Asus Skt A, my Gigabyte Skt 939, my Asus Skt 939, and my Abit 939. Once you get them running however, they are outstanding boards. They tend to feature far more tweaks than comparable boards from competitors. The end result of this is that you can (generally) do things on them thought impossible for other boards. The best example of this is Poser's 4 GB of RAM at DDR 500+ on his DFI Expert.

I'm one of those "I need more settings" kind of guy. On my days off when I have no other work to do, I'll gladly sit down for hours on end to tweak. I really some of those days back.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


To quote you against yourself: "I call sheins." - Joe in GTalk nearly daily

This is less true on the AM2 offerings. However, it is still more powerful and finicky than my Abit Slt A, my Asus Skt A, my Gigabyte Skt 939, my Asus Skt 939, and my Abit 939. Once you get them running however, they are outstanding boards. They tend to feature far more tweaks than comparable boards from competitors. The end result of this is that you can (generally) do things on them thought impossible for other boards. The best example of this is Poser's 4 GB of RAM at DDR 500+ on his DFI Expert.


Ill second that 4GB AT OVER 500


----------



## JEmmaB

For blitz6804, txtmstrjoe & thlnk3r

Sirs I posted some links from page 1 to my local forum thread; in the hope to help our fellow 939 brethren from my country.

TipidPC

But if you feel that my post is not appropriate and should be deleted kindly let me know; I will immediately remove it. Thanks.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JEmmaB*


For blitz6804, txtmstrjoe & thlnk3r

Sirs I posted some links from page to our local thread; in the hope to help our fellow 939 brethren from my country.

TipidPC

But if you feel that my post is not appropriate and should be deleted kindly let me know; I will immediately remove it. Thanks.










And what about the head boob? Does he have no say in this at all? I think its not a bad idea myself....but I think forum admins would have the final word over it. Seems fine to me though.

Also...does anybody have any experience with a Radeon video card and hooking it up to a TV via RCA or S-Video connections? If so...mind sharing how you did so here, or right here in the club for me? Please!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JEmmaB*


For blitz6804, txtmstrjoe & thlnk3r

Sirs I posted some links from page 1 to my local forum thread; in the hope to help our fellow 939 brethren from my country.

TipidPC

But if you feel that my post is not appropriate and should be deleted kindly let me know; I will immediately remove it. Thanks.










I think that will be fine to link that.


----------



## JEmmaB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


And what about the head boob? Does he have no say in this at all? I think its not a bad idea myself....but I think forum admins would have the final word over it. Seems fine to me though.

Also...does anybody have any experience with a Radeon video card and hooking it up to a TV via RCA or S-Video connections? If so...mind sharing how you did so here, or right here in the club for me? Please!


Sorry about that head boob.









Thanks for the support. Now I await what the forum admins have to say.









Also to others that I may have forgot.


----------



## JEmmaB

Thanks GuardianOdin!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JEmmaB*


For blitz6804, txtmstrjoe & thlnk3r

Sirs I posted some links from page 1 to my local forum thread; in the hope to help our fellow 939 brethren from my country.

TipidPC

But if you feel that my post is not appropriate and should be deleted kindly let me know; I will immediately remove it. Thanks.










JEmmaB, I don't see any problems with it. Just make sure you give credit to those who originally posted the thread on OCN. Other then that go for it









Good luck


----------



## ZealotKi11er

I am back with my 3700+. I am using my 3700+ more then Q6600 so what the heck.


----------



## JEmmaB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


JEmmaB, I don't see any problems with it. Just make sure you give credit to those who originally posted the thread on OCN. Other then that go for it









Good luck


Thanks a lot.









Due credit given.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*


I am back with my 3700+. I am using my 3700+ more then Q6600 so what the heck.


Just goes to prove that no matter what everyone says; we still love our AMD.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*


I am back with my 3700+. I am using my 3700+ more then Q6600 so what the heck.


Lol why do you use it more?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*


I am back with my 3700+. I am using my 3700+ more then Q6600 so what the heck.


ZealotKi11er, well if the Q6600 rig is just sitting there you could turn it into a folder for OCN









Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Just for kicks, I wanted to see if I can tune up my sig rig to run at a higher speed AND still be S&M stable.

So I took it up to 2.90GHz, and ran it through S&M.










This is actually the second time the rig passed at 2.90GHz.







The first time I forgot to take a screen shot














. In the interest of full disclosure, and with full confidence that the machine would in fact pass the stress test again, I ran S&M again.

It deprived me of a usable machine for several hours (and some people of some chat-enabled company), but at least I am running at a very confident and stable 2.90GHz now.









For the record, the test was run with ambient temperatures of 29.5 degrees C in my bedroom; my CPU cores peaked at 51 degrees C sustained during the hottest part of the CPU tests.

The big benchmark benefit of running the processor at 2.9GHz is a useful improvement in RAM bandwidth.










Obviously, 2.90GHz result is to the left, and 2.80GHz result is to the right.

I cannot honestly tell if 2.90GHz is faster at the keyboard level; 3DMark06, the only other benchmark I ran to gauge performance differences (I figured that the CPU is holding back my video card's potential), has not shown any performance gains either. Though the machine is obviously S&M stable, I am considering whether or not the increased stress is justified by the lack of palpable performance increase at the keyboard level.

I am impressed, however, with the welcome increase in RAM bandwidth; Blitz will tell us more about how close the new RAM bandwidth figures are to the theoretical maximum of my setup (as this is his forte).









Will I push to 3.0GHz? I may, to be perfectly honest. My instincts tell me that this chip may even be 3.0GHz-capable AND S&M stable...









But that is an adventure for another time.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I am looking forward to your results joe!

I am also stressing my own rig...AGAIN. I now have a Xigmatek S1283 installed with a blue LED Thunderblade, for testing purposes. It seems to have dropped my load temperature by 12*C with the side panels off my case, and 5*C with everything attached. So I myself may be soon attempting a 3.1GHz run. We'll see how well this case handles up to 1.50v (its the case's airflow holding me back at this point).

EDIT:
As a point of reference, I was using a Zalman CNPS 9500 LED AM2 cooler before hand...pointed to the rear. The Xigmatek is pointed up because it was either up or down.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I am looking forward to your results joe!

I am also stressing my own rig...AGAIN. I now have a Xigmatek S1283 installed with a blue LED Thunderblade, for testing purposes. It seems to have dropped my load temperature by 12*C with the side panels off my case, and 5*C with everything attached. So I myself may be soon attempting a 3.1GHz run. We'll see how well this case handles up to 1.50v (its the case's airflow holding me back at this point).

EDIT:
As a point of reference, I was using a Zalman CNPS 9500 LED AM2 cooler before hand...pointed to the rear. The Xigmatek is pointed up because it was either up or down.

It has come to my attention that ambient temperatutures play a majore part in just how a over clock performs. If it's cool at knight and warm in day then it should play mild part in oc but if its warm at night and hot in day then you have a whole nother ball of wax to deal with.


----------



## Blitz6804

In my opinion N2Gaming, a properly vented case will only benefit from a low ambient at idle. Joe's computer, situated in its hellish environment, would idle hotter than my icy-domain-situated one about 97% of the time. However, it would load cooler than mine 99% of the time.

To Joe's bandwidth:

241.7 MHz DDR = 483.4 MHz
483.4 MHz = 7734.4 MBps
7070 MBps / 7734.4 MBps = 91.4% theoretical

I have to say, 91.4% theoretical bandwidth is quite impressive. Things that help close the gap between theoretical and actual: low latencies (over high speed), small RAM divider differential from the reference clock, and thorough testing.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


ZealotKi11er, well if the Q6600 rig is just sitting there you could turn it into a folder for OCN









Good luck


I am folding on it with 4850 too.


----------



## Blitz6804

Not to be a cynic, but why are you back on your AMD as your primary rig?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
This is actually the second time the rig passed at 2.90GHz.







The first time I forgot to take a screen shot














. In the interest of full disclosure, and with full confidence that the machine would in fact pass the stress test again, I ran S&M again.

Joe, congrats my friend









Quote:


Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er* 
I am folding on it with 4850 too.

ZealotKi11er, not to sound ignorant or anything but I didn't know the 48xx series was able to fold yet. This is interesting


----------



## Blitz6804

48xx can indeed fold. They are only about 10% faster than a 38xx because of bad driver optimizations.


----------



## pez

Ahhh, guys I'm so happy with my purchase. TBH, I'm glad I didn't go anything lower than a 9800GT. On crysis, I would run mainstream on the normal levels at only about 22-40 fps. Now I run high, and even on the ice levels, I'm getting about 25-50 fps. Definitely worth it. W/ everything maxed in COD4, the lowest I've seen is 55 fps w/ an average of around 80 outside, and about 110 inside. Even my CSS fps avg went from 124 to 164. Now I can't wait to SLI. (I'm so greedy







)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Ahhh, guys I'm so happy with my purchase. TBH, I'm glad I didn't go anything lower than a 9800GT. On crysis, I would run mainstream on the normal levels at only about 22-40 fps. Now I run high, and even on the ice levels, I'm getting about 25-50 fps. Definitely worth it. W/ everything maxed in COD4, the lowest I've seen is 55 fps w/ an average of around 80 outside, and about 110 inside. Even my CSS fps avg went from 124 to 164. Now I can't wait to SLI. (I'm so greedy







)


Pez, congrats! I'm glad your happy with your new purchase. What resolution were the above tests done with?

Good luck


----------



## pioneerisloud

Okay, well I can't seem to break 3.1GHz yet. I can now however BOOT INTO WINDOWS and be internet stable with it now...that's a plus! Before It wouldn't even POST. It seems to be a RAM stability still somehow.

However my temps did go down near 10*C by switching coolers at the same overclock!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


However my temps did go down near 10*C by switching coolers at the same overclock!


Pio, WOW! That is a huge drop in temps.

Great job


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pez, congrats! I'm glad your happy with your new purchase. What resolution were the above tests done with?

Good luck










Oh yeah, sorry, they were done at 1280x1024. I think soon I'll go SLI, and see how it performs, and then get a nice 22 incher for X-mas. We'll see







. I'm happy w/ performance now, so I might just go 1440x900.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Oh yeah, sorry, they were done at 1280x1024. I think soon I'll go SLI, and see how it performs, and then get a nice 22 incher for X-mas. We'll see







. I'm happy w/ performance now, so I might just go 1440x900.


Pez, there is a couple of settings in COD4 that can actually be disabled that may free up some frames. Unfortunately I can't remember what exactly I disabled but after I made some changes I was averaging 80-100FPS on most of the maps. This was at 1440x900 so I am guessing you may see some higher numbers at 1280x1024.

Good luck


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Pez, there is a couple of settings in COD4 that can actually be disabled that may free up some frames. Unfortunately I can't remember what exactly I disabled but after I made some changes I was averaging 80-100FPS on most of the maps. This was at 1440x900 so I am guessing you may see some higher numbers at 1280x1024.

Good luck









Yeah, I think you're thinking of the Smoke option and Shadows option. I know those make a big difference (as well as AA). 1440x900 should theoretically show 10% more performance results than 1280x1024, because 1440x900 is a smaller res. But yeah, I would say my average in Call of Duty for is about 80-100fps as well and on maps like Overgrown 60-80. I'm very happy with this card







.


----------



## Blitz6804

Soften Smoke Edges, Shadows, Specular Map, and AA are the big ones. Although, in my opinion you can live without the other three, Specular Map is a must. It makes the game "come alive."

As to the rez, 1440x900 is only 1.1% smaller than 1280x1024.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Soften Smoke Edges, Shadows, Specular Map, and AA are the big ones. Although, in my opinion you can live without the other three, Specular Map is a must. It makes the game "come alive."

As to the rez, 1440x900 is only 1.1% smaller than 1280x1024.

I agree about Specular map. It adds like that glow and liveliness to the game. I did the calculations and it was like .98 something, so I guess I was converting it in my head as almost 10%.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


As to the rez, 1440x900 is only 1.1% smaller than 1280x1024.


Blitz, how did you get these figures? So 1440 is not larger then 1280? Excuse my ignorance.

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I think this is a question of semantics. We most commonly use "high" or "low" in describing screen resolutions; I guess "high" ought to translate to "bigger" resolutions, but maybe there is some confusion because the pixels are smaller in a higher resolution.


----------



## pez

Yeah, sorry, 1280x1024 is a tad bit bigger of a resolution. The 1440 is bigger than the 1280, but the 1024 is also bigger than the 900 by a bit bigger of a difference.


----------



## Blitz6804

1440*900 = 1,296,000 pixels
1280*1024 = 1,310,720 pixels

As Pez has said, yes, 1440 is wider than 1280; but since it is 16:10 rather than 5:4, you must also consider the other number. 1024 is taller than 900.

Comparing 16:10 to 16:10, 1440x900 is in fact larger than 1280x800.

Comparing 5:4 to 5:4, 1280x1024 is in fact smaller than 1440x1152.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


1440*900 = 1,296,000 pixels
1280*1024 = 1,310,720 pixels

As Pez has said, yes, 1440 is wider than 1280; but since it is 16:10 rather than 5:4, you must also consider the other number. 1024 is taller than 900.

Comparing 16:10 to 16:10, 1440x900 is in fact larger than 1280x800.

Comparing 5:4 to 5:4, 1280x1024 is in fact smaller than 1440x1152.


Blitz, very nice. Thanks for the clarification


----------



## Bogeyone001

so my buddy found a computer sitting on the side of the road with a 3ghz pentium 4 630 processor. 
i looked in the bios but couldnt find anyway to change the settings..
is there a way around that or so i can oc the cpu


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bogeyone001*


so my buddy found a computer sitting on the side of the road with a 3ghz pentium 4 630 processor. 
i looked in the bios but couldnt find anyway to change the settings..
is there a way around that or so i can oc the cpu


Bogeyone001, this might be a question for the Intel section but we'll try and help you out.

Is the machine a branded computer or custom built computer?

Good luck


----------



## Bogeyone001

gateway computer


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bogeyone001* 
gateway computer

Bogeyone001, most brand computers if not all have a proprietary BIOS that doesn't include overclocking settings. Your better off swapping that board out with an aftermarket one that would allow these types of changes.

Hope that helps


----------



## Bogeyone001

ok thanks
seeing as the chip is only a single core and not worth much is there any other way?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bogeyone001* 
ok thanks
seeing as the chip is only a single core and not worth much is there any other way?

Bogeyone001, can you explain in more detail on what you mean? For overclocking you could throw the processor into another compatible motherboard that allows for overclocking(includes the available options in the BIOS). You could also fold on the machine if you wanted to. I still think it's pretty sweet your buddy found a machine on the side of the road









Good luck


----------



## Domino

how are you guys getting 2.4+ on a 3800+x2 manchester? mine won't hit 2.3 without not posting







right now im sitting at 1.38 vcore and 2.2ghz


----------



## pez

It could have to do with your RAM settings. Do you have any info on that? That way other (more experienced than I) people would be able to help.


----------



## Blitz6804

DDR 400 with a stock timing set of 4-4-7-10? I am dubious. If you can open for us please CPU-Z and get us a screen shot of the CPU, Memory, and SPD tabs that would be helpful. (It also has the precipitated side effect of getting you into the club should you wish to be so.)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

After much testing over the last couple of days, I have decided to abandon my quest for an S&M-stable 3.00GHz OC with the sig rig. I have tried so many changes to settings, as well as have seen far too many BSoDs than I care to ever see for a while, during my stress testing. Not only that, but I have not been able to use this machine for its intended purpose during all that testing.

There was even a time when I thought that I had bricked my RAM. Fortunately, after restoring "known good" settings, I'm assured that the RAM is still healthy. I thought that I had lost a second set of RAM to S&M.









Anyway, an S&M-stable 2.90GHz is still 100MHz more than my previous best. I'm pretty happy to be able to extract that extra speed. I still can't honestly say I can tell the difference between 2.8GHz and 2.9GHz (or even 3.0GHz from 2.8GHz), but it's still some kind of personal accomplishment.

The processor itself is a horse. It can definitely run all day and all night at 3.0GHz. The weak point is the RAM, or how I've got it set up. I toyed with the idea of just slapping on a higher divider on the RAM and have it run at DDR400 (it was at DDR500 when the CPU was clocked at 3.0GHz), but the RAM bandwidth figures were around 2000MB/s down from DDR500 (and the DDR482 I've got right now). Since I personally can't detect the difference between 2.9GHz and 3.0GHz at the keyboard level anyway, I just decided to set the system up in the most balanced fashion possible and settled in at 2.9GHz.

Just for posterity, though, here is my CPU-Z validation of one of my 3.0GHz configurations.







(Yes, I experimented with the HT Link Speeds as well by changing the HT Link Multiplier; there was no discernible effect on the system's stability as far as I can tell.)


----------



## JEmmaB

Additional 939 proc.


















Validation


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
After much testing over the last couple of days, I have decided to abandon my quest for an S&M-stable 3.00GHz OC with the sig rig. here is my CPU-Z validation of one of my 3.0GHz configurations.







(Yes, I experimented with the HT Link Speeds as well by changing the HT Link Multiplier; there was no discernible effect on the system's stability as far as I can tell.)


Is the Rated FSB of 1200 what you mean by HT Link? I was under the impression that any value over 1050 would for sure cause instability. By no means am I trying to point out any problems you may be having with your Overclock. Iâ€™m still trying to understand the fundamentals with the doâ€™s and donâ€™ts of Overclocking. This is why I ask about the Rated FSB @ 1200








.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 

Is the Rated FSB of 1200 what you mean by HT Link? I was under the impression that any value over 1050 would for sure cause instability. By no means am I trying to point out any problems you may be having with your Overclock. Iâ€™m still trying to understand the fundamentals with the doâ€™s and donâ€™ts of Overclocking. This is why I ask about the Rated FSB @ 1200








.

I've done quite a bit of testing of the HT Link, especially when it comes to how it affects stability. Regarding my attempts to get the machine S&M-stable, it has no noticeable effect up to the tested speed of 1200MHz (I was actually hoping someone might notice that). How do I know? As I noted earlier, I changed the HT Link Multiplier in my testing (I have CPU-Z validations with this set to 3x, resulting in a HT Link Speed of 900MHz), and the system still failed S&M (it fails during Test 4 of the RAM test component of S&M, which is, frustratingly, the last test the system needed to pass). I can therefore reasonably conclude that, at least with my system, HT Link Speed is not a factor which influences stability.

Will this be true for every S939 system? To be honest, I would say it's very unlikely. You have to test this particular part of your overclock for yourself. However, it's very likely that speeds up to 1200MHz for the HT Link are probably the exception rather than the rule.

In other words, the only way to know what the case is for your system is to do the tests yourself and find out.







Assumptions are nothing but guesses, however informed they may be.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Just for posterity, though, here is my CPU-Z validation of one of my 3.0GHz configurations.


Joe, nice work there. I understand you didn't notice a difference between the clock speeds and on the keyboard level but what about any benchmarks? Loosing 2000MB/s in bandwidth is quite a hit. I too would probably have left it at the original stable OC.

JEmmaB, nice FX-57 OC! The San Diego core was always a nice over









Good luck guys!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, nice work there. I understand you didn't notice a difference between the clock speeds and on the keyboard level but what about any benchmarks? Loosing 2000MB/s in bandwidth is quite a hit. I too would probably have left it at the original stable OC.

There is a slight increase (maybe less than 100 3DMarks) in 3DMark06; to me, this was insignificant (and rather telling, since it shows that S939s running a modern video card are really too slow; in other words, S939 CPUs, even when OCed to very close to their limits on air cooling, are bottlenecking current-gen video cards). I should have run SuperPi 32M and 1M to see if the increased clock speed would have showed up significant improvements as well.









The RAM bandwidth testing is the only other benchmark test I ran. I tried running the RAM @ DDR500 (166MHz:200MHz divider) and @ DDR400 (133MHz:200MHz divider), and not surprisingly there was a huge difference (around 2000MB/s in Read and Copy) in bandwidth. This was without any changes to the primary timings, it should be noted. This suggests that RAM Frequency has a huge effect on the RAM bandwidth potential. I'm confident that Blitz can do a great job of showing us how the numbers support this idea.


----------



## Blitz6804

Just so you know Joe/N2Gaming, I have done some testing on HT Link Stability. If your HT Link is too high (or HTV too low), you will fail the second CPU test of S&M. That Joe's PC passed said test, the limiting factor is in fact RAM.

Joe: have you tried running the RAM at 2.8 V yet as I have suggested? Does it work at the timings/voltage you have now if you run HTT = 250; RAM = 1:1? If so, your IMC is overworked. If not, your RAM is overworked. If the RAM cannot do DDR 500 @ 3-3-2-8-1T with 2.8 V, your RAM should be RMAed to Mushkin.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Just so you know Joe/N2Gaming, I have done some testing on HT Link Stability. If your HT Link is too high (or HTV too low), you will fail the second CPU test of S&M. That Joe's PC passed said test, the limiting factor is in fact RAM.

Joe: have you tried running the RAM at 2.8 V yet as I have suggested? Does it work at the timings/voltage you have now if you run HTT = 250; RAM = 1:1? If so, your IMC is overworked. If not, your RAM is overworked. If the RAM cannot do DDR 500 @ 3-3-2-8-1T with 2.8 V, your RAM should be RMAed to Mushkin.

Among the myriad tests I did was running the RAM with 2.8V VDIMM, but this did not make any positive difference.

To address the issue of whether the RAM can actually run 1:1 @ 250MHz, I ran a test with this kit back when I first acquired it. It was able to run 1:1 with the reference clock up to 280MHz (DDR560). I suppose it's possible that living its life overclocked (i.e., above DDR400) for all of its life may have degraded it, but it's also possible that there could be two issues at work here:

I may simply not have found the crucial one or two settings that will enable the RAM to run with S&M stability @ DDR500 with the reference clock @ 300MHz.

It may be that the CPU's IMC is indeed the limiting factor.
The second point is interesting, because it takes a relatively significant increase in VCore to gain 100MHz from 2.8GHz to 2.9GHz (from 1.375V to 1.44V), with everything else constant. It then becomes a case of diminishing returns; you have to increase VCore even more than the .065V to gain another 100MHz to stay stable (if at all) in S&M.

More crucially, as I've noted before, I personally cannot tell the difference in performance between 2.8GHz and 3.0GHz at the keyboard level.

I theorize that it's possible to indeed have 3.0GHz, DDR500, and S&M stability, but only with a rather significant jump in VCore. This would only stress the system more, but without really rewarding the end user in terms of discernible performance increases (I cannot feel the difference myself). In most such cases, therefore, I would opt for the solution that gets the most performance possible at the least possible cost in terms of stress on the system as a whole.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Joe: have you tried running the RAM at 2.8 V yet as I have suggested? Does it work at the timings/voltage you have now if you run HTT = 250; RAM = 1:1? *If so, your IMC is overworked.* If not, your RAM is overworked. If the RAM cannot do DDR 500 @ 3-3-2-8-1T with 2.8 V, your RAM should be RMAed to Mushkin.

Blitz, do you mean to say, "it may be overworked'? Case in point if his IMC is being stressed higher then normal that doesn't necessarily mean he can't run those settings anymore. If the stress test passes then I don't see a problem.

Joe, I'm a bit curious. On the Muskin set, is the IC spec end with a CE-6? I just read a few things online saying the Redline series was UCCD and not Infineon


----------



## Domino

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
It could have to do with your RAM settings. Do you have any info on that? That way other (more experienced than I) people would be able to help.

Well, I got 1GB of 2x512MB A-Data Technology Ram. PC3200. I have them set at 166 MHz.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
DDR 400 with a stock timing set of 4-4-7-10? I am dubious. If you can open for us please CPU-Z and get us a screen shot of the CPU, Memory, and SPD tabs that would be helpful. (It also has the precipitated side effect of getting you into the club should you wish to be so.)

CPU-Z says that at 166 the timmings are at 2.5-4-4-7 (2.5V) and at 200 they are at 3-4-4-8 (2.5V)? Are those the right timings? I would like to get to 2.4 GHz or get an overclock close to the normal ram settings of 200 each. I only have a stock cooler though and it doesn't seem to ever go over 60 on a 100 percent stress test.

http://img55.imageshack.us/my.php?image=cpuzramai5.png


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Domino* 
Well, I got 1GB of 2x512MB A-Data Technology Ram. PC3200. I have them set at 166 MHz.

CPU-Z says that at 166 the timmings are at 2.5-4-4-7 (2.5V) and at 200 they are at 3-4-4-8 (2.5V)? Are those the right timings? I would like to get to 2.4 GHz or get an overclock close to the normal ram settings of 200 each. I only have a stock cooler though and it doesn't seem to ever go over 60 on a 100 percent stress test.

Those temps seem like they might be a little high if infact your at stock spd's. Most Big Name brand manufacturers are only going to put the cheapest yet most reliable cpu cooling in their systems to perform the way the machine was intended to perform. ie if the rig came w/onboard video and sound and you have changed the sound and video card now you have started to stress the machine beyond what it was designed for. Then there may be some who would say that disabling proprietary sound and video may stress the system less becuase by installing add in cards you take the load off the internal mobo parts and place the load to add in cards. Keep in mind any componat you add to your system will in one way or another possibly add internal heat. This is with out even mentioning trying to overclock the cpu. First things first. get controll of your temps before you harm your cpu. Change your cpu H/S&Fan add chassis fans etc. Then again you could always just go for it, what have you got to loose!!







cpu or mobo maybe

Edit: From the looks of it you are using proprietary video and sound while stress testing only shows your cpu gets hot at 100% load and if you want your ram to run at ddr400 then you need to make sure your system is capable of doing that. I don't know much about intel cpu's but they normally have oddball fsb like 133, 166 and so on. what is the standard fsb for your cpu and ram?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Joe, I'm a bit curious. On the Muskin set, is the IC spec end with a CE-6? I just read a few things online saying the Redline series was UCCD and not Infineon










The ICs for this Mushkin Redline XP4000 set are definitely CE-6s. The UCCD Redlines to which you are referring were probably older stock and/or not a 2GB kit. There's no question, though, that the current Mushkin Redline XP4000 DDR500 2GB kit is based on Infineon CE-6 ICs. Mushkin's own support forums have confirmed this.


----------



## Domino

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Those temps seem like they might be a little high if infact your at stock spd's. Most Big Name brand manufacturers are only going to put the cheapest yet most reliable cpu cooling in their systems to perform the way the machine was intended to perform. ie if the rig came w/onboard video and sound and you have changed the sound and video card now you have started to stress the machine beyond what it was designed for. Then there may be some who would say that disabling proprietary sound and video may stress the system less becuase by installing add in cards you take the load off the internal mobo parts and place the load to add in cards. Keep in mind any componat you add to your system will in one way or another possibly add internal heat. This is with out even mentioning trying to overclock the cpu. First things first. get controll of your temps before you harm your cpu. Change your cpu H/S&Fan add chassis fans etc. Then again you could always just go for it, what have you got to loose!!







cpu or mobo maybe

Edit: From the looks of it you are using proprietary video and sound while stress testing only shows your cpu gets hot at 100% load and if you want your ram to run at ddr400 then you need to make sure your system is capable of doing that. I don't know much about intel cpu's but they normally have oddball fsb like 133, 166 and so on. what is the standard fsb for your cpu and ram?


Sorry, I have the wrong system in my sig rig. Ok, my overclock system is in the sig now.

See, if I put it at 2.3GHz, the system would go into a CMOS safe mode type thing after awhile and it shows it only at 39.C. But then I find out it just declocked itself. Would investing in a new cooler be worth it then? Has anyone gotten to 2.4 on a stock cooler?

200x10 and 200 Ram


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Domino*


Sorry, I have the wrong system in my sig rig. Ok, my overclock system is in the sig now.

See, if I put it at 2.3GHz, the system would go into a CMOS safe mode type thing after awhile and it shows it only at 39.C. But then I find out it just declocked itself. Would investing in a new cooler be worth it then? Has anyone gotten to 2.4 on a stock cooler?

200x10 and 200 Ram


Domino, how much Vcore (processor voltage) are you running? On a stock cooler 60C is to be expected especially at full load. An aftermarket cooler might be a wise choice to go with. When trying for 2.3Ghz, make sure you also place your memory on a divider. Perhaps maybe the memory frequency is to high which is causing the instability at POST. Can you share some CPU-Z screenshots of your current overclock? Include each tab if you can.

Make sure also that Cool'n'Quiet is disabled as well as anything related to Spread Spectrum and "thermal throttling".

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks think3r you took the wind right out of my sails. My guess would be you have an all aluminum h/s fan and upgrading to a heat pipe type heatsink and fan would get you to prolly about 10-15 degrees cooler depending on the cooler you use and how well it is seated atop the cpu. Don't forget good thermal paste/grease. I use the grey stuff that came with my zalman 9700. A lot of people like AS5. I saw a warning in regards to as5 and water. lol I won't go there for now. There are better coolers out there for the price but I got mine on sale at Fry's for $35.00 so I bought two almost for the price of one and they seem to do the job. Are you trying to overclock using software or bios settings?


----------



## Domino

Thanks for the help guys









http://img396.imageshack.us/img396/3370/cpuzjg6.jpg

That is all my CPU-Z tabs except for the about one









Btw, the vcore seems to jump anywhere from 1.32 to 1.36 most of the times. If I set my mobo to 1.38 it doesn't post......


----------



## N2Gaming

I would like to see you imitate these settings if the cards are in your favor http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=313371 good luck.







I noticed your power supply is leaning towards possible problematic. Do you have access to a digital multi meter? You could test your power supply while idle and under load to see if you have any power fluctuations beyond normal values.


----------



## Domino

No, I don't man, but I just dropped my ram to 133 instead of 166 and now I'm running at 2.3 GHz, is there any good programs to test temperature and stress it? This is the first time I've hit 2.3 GHz and loving it lol. I'm expecting to see at least 400-Watts come out of this PSU, its been running fine for the past few months on this set up so I guess it should be fine. I shouldn't be pumping anything above 350 watts?


----------



## N2Gaming

Nice







another thing you could try if you have not yet is upping your dram voltage. what voltage are you running your ram at right now?


----------



## Blitz6804

Okay, few things. Yes Thlnk3r, I meant to say "may be" and not "is." I was in the middle of class, typos are to be expected. (I sit in the front row.)

N2Gaming, Domino has a Manchester, not a Toledo. To expect 3.0 GHz may be a bit of a pipe dream. Further, if I remember right, Death Dealer was under water? Maybe not. In any event, overclocking a Manchester and a Toledo/Denmark are two different beasts. As Joe and Pioneer will both attest to.

Now, as you found out Domino, 166 will not necessarily run at 2.5-4-4-7. You must do the math to determine what your RAM is actually running at. Since it is running at DDR 367, we would expect timings between the SPD for 333 and 400 to be the optimum stability. To test temperatures, there are a few ways to do it. You could run OCCT v2.1; the default test is an hour. This will give a quick stability run to give you a ball park. To really max the temperatures out, you can run Orthos Small FFT priority 10. Alternatively, you can run S&M 1.9.1 on the CPU (FPU) test. Also a temperature killer, but I do not recommend except to verify temperatures on a stable machine, is [email protected] SMP. It gets me the highest temperatures I have ever seen on my laptop, even 1Âº C than S&M.

Regards RAM voltage: if you do not have heat sinks on the RAM, I would not suggest running them any higher than 2.6 V. I would check in any event the temperatures of the RAM DIMMs. If you get your finger near them and feel warmth, it might be a good idea to lower their voltage or add sinks.

How are you measuring watts? Are we talking about what the outlet is providing or what the power supply is providing? If the former, remember that monitors play a large part. For example, killing my monitor reduces load on my UPS by around 130 W.

Nice OC on the FX-57 JEmmaB. I will add you to the off-site soon. Would you like to be a member as well Domino while I am adding him?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
N2Gaming, Domino has a Manchester, not a Toledo. To expect 3.0 GHz may be a bit of a pipe dream.

Regards RAM voltage: if you do not have heat sinks on the RAM, I would not suggest running them any higher than 2.6 V. I would check in any event the temperatures of the RAM DIMMs. If you get your finger near them and feel warmth, it might be a good idea to lower their voltage or add sinks.

How are you measuring watts? killing my monitor reduces load on my UPS by around 130 W.

Sorry Domino if I may have momentarily gotten your hopes up.

Thanks blitz for asking if the ram has any cooling, I forgot to take this into account. Also good to know that a monitor will suck the life right out of a power supply I did not know that.







I get to learn all kinds of things today.


----------



## Domino

Right now I'm running at 2.35GHz and it seems stable. Thought there seems to be a lag when I'm typing as well, maybe that is because I have COH in the background. Anyways, my RAM is at 2.5V, and I'm not too sure how to find out my timings, that is fairly new to me, other than what it says in BIOS (just found something like that) and my PSU says 550-Watts on it, and since it is not a high quality one, I'm just expecting 400-Watts out of it. My old one was a 400-Watt and the 9600GT recommended a 450 so I just bought a 550-Watt at the time. So far everything seems stable but I haven't gone though 0CCT yet completely, so I'll give that shot. So far though, performance has jumped a lot!







Thanks again guys!
 






The timings are at auto and all those things said to be disabled are disabled now









But I thought that the PSU only had to deal with internal parts while the monitor is plugged into the wall? Plus the RAM is just stock standard everything, everything is bear on it.

Oh no worries, I saw that in your link that it was a different core, I was really just expecting to see a 400MHz oc and i'll be happy with that until I get an after market cooler,







overclocking is so much fun, :O

I'm going to try 2.4GHz next, thanks fro the help guys +rep to those who can get it


----------



## boonie2

Good luck reaching the 2.4 mark


----------



## Blitz6804

No, a monitor will not effect a power supply. UPS stands for "Uninterruptable Power Supply." It is essentially a big battery strapped to a surge suppressor such that the computer will not shut off immediately with the power going out.


----------



## Domino

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
Good luck reaching the 2.4 mark

















thanks man

Well, I had to drop the ram down to 100 and now I'm sitting at 2.4GHz







w00t, thx guys









with my ram running at only 120....is that going to be really bad?


----------



## N2Gaming

Oh. ok I guess if you loose main power then ups gives you enough time to save your work before you loose ups power


----------



## AC_Smoothie

Cool, i got an S939 too


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Domino* 







thanks man

Well, I had to drop the ram down to 100 and now I'm sitting at 2.4GHz







w00t, thx guys









with my ram running at only 120....is that going to be really bad?









OK TIME FOR 2.5


----------



## Domino

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 







OK TIME FOR 2.5









lol i honestly want to try that, but my fps droped by 10 in the valve stress test


----------



## Domino

2.45 now







, lol, ok, now I'm scared, I don't really want to go any higher







I uped the 9600gt to 720 core and the screen went yellow and black so


----------



## Blitz6804

Exactly right N2Gaming: UPS gives you that valuable time to safely shut down. Doing minor work, I get about 20 minutes. Under full load, I have less than four.

Domino: DDR 240 RAM is not exactly the fastest thing out there. The CPU is not the be-all end-all as you have just proven with your FPS. The goal is the best overall system clock, not merely the maximum CPU clock. With 230x10; you had 200:133. What RAM timings? CL=3, tRCD=4, tRP=4, tRAS=8, tRC=12, tRFC=16, CRC=2T? The tRC/tRFC are often-overlooked sub-timings which my experience has show to provide a crucial stability element.


----------



## N2Gaming

wow lol walk before you run heck you just started walking from crawling







good job by the way. find your ram setting. this may help you a bit.


----------



## Domino

those clocks seem to be right, ok, well, ill try this and see what happens, maybe 2.3 would be the best bet, thx man


----------



## N2Gaming

Any time you overclock it is a good rule of thumb to manuall set your ram timings. have you found the bios option for ram timings?


----------



## Domino

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Any time you overclock it is a good rule of thumb to manuall set your ram timings. have you found the bios option for ram timings?

Ok, ram is a new thing to me, I've found the setting in my bios but I have no idea what each mean and what are good settings to do. Can't changing them to the wrong numbers really screw things over? Ram mis calculates or refreshes itself too fast and everything is lost?

Btw, at 2.45 I've gotten back to the 138ish mark on the valve stress test. Before it was 138 now it was 136ish. I'm wondering, if my ram normally runs at 200x2, shouldn't it be able to say there no matter what. I mean, if I declock it and overclock it back to 200, shouldn't it run stable?


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes and no Domino. As we see with Joe's rig, 200:200 with a 250 HTT is not the same as 200:166 with a 300 HTT. While both are DDR 500, there is a difference of added stress on the CPU's IMC. This stress might be relieved by adding more voltage, but there is no guarantee, and further, it bears the dual spectres of higher temperatures and shorter life span.

And yes, incorrectly setting RAM might in fact corrupt an operating system. I would thoroughly back up your system before trying to fiddle too much with it. Just because I have not backed up and have not gotten burned yet does not mean you will not. Ask Pioneerisloud how many installs he has fried.

The tRC/tRFC are sub-timings. Further, not all motherboards have access to them. I have found in my experience that most SPDs incorrectly set them, however, they are often too loose; not too tight. If you want to get added stability, you can loosen them some. You will see a reduction in bandwidth however.

Further, high HTTs may require added northbridge voltage.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Domino*


Btw, at 2.45 I've gotten back to the 138ish mark on the valve stress test. Before it was 138 now it was 136ish. I'm wondering, if my ram normally runs at 200x2, shouldn't it be able to say there no matter what. I mean, if I declock it and overclock it back to 200, shouldn't it run stable?


Domino, I'm a little biased when it comes to the source test. Source "supposedly" is more CPU dependent eh...I think it's half and half with the video card as well. To be honest I don't think you'll notice a huge difference from a 100Mhz overclock (in-game).

Keep pushing your overclock. The Manchester core typically tops out at 2.7Ghz - 2.8Ghz. These are averages so nothing is guaranteed.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

To temper that; I can anecdotally say the members of our club seem to weigh-in in two clumps. One clump is around the 2.4-2.45 mark, the other is around the 2.75-2.8 mark. What stepping you possess may effect this, as does the chipset, RAM, and PWMs.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey I just downloaded ms hardware updates and got a gain of 123 3dmark06 point from 8427 to 8585







http://www.overclock.net/album.php?a...pictureid=2619


----------



## Blitz6804

That is a bad link N2Gaming. In order to use a 3DMark link, you must have a paid-version of 3DMark06 to enable ORB. The link would look more in the form of:

http://service.futuremark.com/result...&resultType=14


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


That is a bad link N2Gaming. In order to use a 3DMark link, you must have a paid-version of 3DMark06 to enable ORB. The link would look more in the form of:

http://service.futuremark.com/result...&resultType=14


sorry I updated it http://www.overclock.net/album.php?a...pictureid=2619


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hey I just downloaded ms hardware updates and got a gain of 123 3dmark06 point from 8423 to 8585







http://service.futuremark.com/home.a...6683B878AEAFE3


N2Gaming, not to bad for updating some drivers. You are pretty close to that 9k mark. Shoot not to far away from my 3850 that did 9700









Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks: Now if I could only get it to overclock lol


----------



## Domino

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


To temper that; I can anecdotally say the members of our club seem to weigh-in in two clumps. One clump is around the 2.4-2.45 mark, the other is around the 2.75-2.8 mark. What stepping you possess may effect this, as does the chipset, RAM, and PWMs.


The ones on here that are around the 2.4 GHz mark are the exact same as mine. I think my steping is just 1. I have it at 2.35GHz and the ram at 133, I think I'll leave it at that for a bit before going any higher. I'll try getting a simple aftermarket cooler that looks different than just a single block around Christmas time before I can really push this thing. For ram, would I be able to put it higher and get coolers for my ram as well? I'm thinking, if I get a good cooler for both the ram and CPU, I'll try and get it to the 2.6 GHz mark with the ram around 200 each. Get some more ram and I think i'll be set for awhile









For these timings, how would I get to a nice safe number? Would I be able to overclock it higher if the ram was put at some nice timings? And what is this about disabling cores to overclock higher? I've noticed duo cores and quad cores don't seem to act any different in gaming performance. What about clock per clock on 1 core core verus 2 core? Anyone have any benchmarks? I would supposfully get a higher clock with only running 1 core eh? And this multiplyer, dropping that down to 9 and put a higher fsb work any better? Or is it higher the multiplyer the better?


----------



## Domino

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Domino, I'm a little biased when it comes to the source test. Source "supposedly" is more CPU dependent eh...I think it's half and half with the video card as well. To be honest I don't think you'll notice a huge difference from a 100Mhz overclock (in-game).

Keep pushing your overclock. The Manchester core typically tops out at 2.7Ghz - 2.8Ghz. These are averages so nothing is guaranteed.

Good luck










hmmmmm I've always noticed that when I overclock my GPU I actually lose performance in source games but in 3dmarks, my points can jump up by a nice 200? Its weird, are there any other tests that give a realistic view on performance increase. The 3d view on atitool seems to go up when the CPU and GPU are overclocked?????


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Domino*


hmmmmm I've always noticed that when I overclock my GPU I actually lose performance in source games but in 3dmarks, my points can jump up by a nice 200? Its weird, are there any other tests that give a realistic view on performance increase. The 3d view on atitool seems to go up when the CPU and GPU are overclocked?????


How many times do you run your benchmark tests? One single run, in my opinion, is not really reliable because, computer systems being what they are, there are myriad factors all in play that will influence your results in some way. Specifically, there are so many things competing for RAM and CPU cycles within your system at any given moment.

Accordingly, I always try to run any benchmark at least three times; inevitably, there will be a high score, a low score, and a score that is almost always somewhere neatly in between the high and low. I then always take the middle score. Another approach would be to add all three scores and divide by three; this gives you the average of all three scores and, generally speaking, a fair representation of what your machine is capable of in that particular benchmark.


----------



## Domino

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


How many times do you run your benchmark tests? One single run, in my opinion, is not really reliable because, computer systems being what they are, there are myriad factors all in play that will influence your results in some way. Specifically, there are so many things competing for RAM and CPU cycles within your system at any given moment.

Accordingly, I always try to run any benchmark at least three times; inevitably, there will be a high score, a low score, and a score that is almost always somewhere neatly in between the high and low. I then always take the middle score. Another approach would be to add all three scores and divide by three; this gives you the average of all three scores and, generally speaking, a fair representation of what your machine is capable of in that particular benchmark.


Ya, I only run 1 test, though in the past there has only been a 2FPS difference and sometimes even a 20-40fps difference (lower) when I overclocked the GPU, so I just think that its a little high of a jump to say the performance increased????


----------



## Blitz6804

I would not recommend RAM sinks if you do not already have them depending on price. It may be better to find a reasonably-priced kit of 2x1024 MB DDR 400. Regards single/dual core, I have done tests on that. If you give me about 30 minutes, I'll find the results. They were posted in this thread.

Available here

Regards RAM timings, your timings are already rather loose. Generally, tight timings (lower numbers) give better performance whereas loose timings (higher numbers) increase stability.


----------



## Domino

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I would not recommend RAM sinks if you do not already have them depending on price. It may be better to find a reasonably-priced kit of 2x1024 MB DDR 400. Regards single/dual core, I have done tests on that. If you give me about 30 minutes, I'll find the results. They were posted in this thread.

Available here

Regards RAM timings, your timings are already rather loose. Generally, tight timings (lower numbers) give better performance whereas loose timings (higher numbers) increase stability.


Thanks for the link there, it seems that more cores gives better performance, but what I'm wondering is if I disable one core and get the processor to 3.0 GHz, would that run faster than a dual core at 2.6 GHz on the same chip? Cause I've seen quad cores run at 4.0+ GHz on 1 core and only get something like 3.2-3.6 on 4 cores, so I'm wondering would I get a better performance increase with a high clocked 1 core disabled or a lower clock with 2 cores enabled?

Ok, well I'll ask for some nice 2x1 GB pc3200 sticks and get a nice cooler


----------



## Blitz6804

I know Boonie2 is selling his RAM. Check his sig for a link.

On games that support dual-core, you would be better served with two, slower cores than one fast core. On games that do not support dual-core, you would be better served with a single fast core. The operating system tends to run smoother with dual cores. (Running the test in that post, the PC was a heck-ova-lot slower single core than using stock (2.2 GHz) dual core.)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Domino* 
hmmmmm I've always noticed that when I overclock my GPU I actually lose performance in source games but in 3dmarks, my points can jump up by a nice 200? Its weird, are there any other tests that give a realistic view on performance increase. The 3d view on atitool seems to go up when the CPU and GPU are overclocked?????

Domino, how much testing have you done on your video card after overclocking it? Perhaps the performance issues are due to instability with the video card and it's current overclock.

Just a thought..

Good luck


----------



## markus3067

from markus3067..
This dump has been verified. The associated ID is : 439245
Your verified dump is now viewable here : http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=439245
Thank you


----------



## Jacka

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=439253

Got any tips?


----------



## N2Gaming

yeah remove the claw from the hammer lol


----------



## Blitz6804

Welcome aboard Markus3067. Is there a reason why your Hypertransport is 800 rather than the typical 1000?

Welcome to you too Jacka. That is already a pretty decent looking San Diego. Perhaps you could post for us though screen shots of the Memory and SPD tabs of CPU-Z.

I am adding both of you (as well as JEmmaB's new clock and Domino) to the off-site roster right now. Txtmstrjoe will add you to the on-site sometime later.


----------



## N2Gaming

is there a way to silent sli'd xfx 8600 gts cards w/o changing to water cooling???


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## Blitz6804

Use ATITool to reduce fan speed? They may overheat in this case. Modify your case panel and mount a quiet, yet moderate CFM fan to compensate?


----------



## N2Gaming

I was looking at how the heat is distributed on these cards. It passes from the rear of the chassis to the front. I was thinking of removing the two empty slot plates or what ever they are called. The one between the two video cards and the one just below the second card to allow fresh air to enter from the rear of the chassis. as it is now the main card sucks heat right off the second card on my sli dr board and really heats things up. So after you put it to me like that maybe I can live w/the noise and maybe add a little more noise to try and cool them down a little. Thanks for the tip.


----------



## Blitz6804

I have in my case a PCI fan. If I had the money for it, I would have two. These fans take heat from above them and exhaust it out the back of the case. Some fans work the other way around, which would be your preference.


----------



## N2Gaming

well with these cards the fan is near the rear and blows the heat towards the front of the chassis. if i put the fan your talking about in front of the video card fan they would possibly suck the air away from the video card fan preventing the video card fan from doing it's job. I thought about that one already. I ahve a couple of m2n32 optional fans laying here not being used mayby I can implement them into the equation some how.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
is there a way to silent sli'd xfx 8600 gts cards w/o changing to water cooling???









N2Gaming, if a fan speed adjustment is out of the question then try looking into installing some sound dampening material. Check out svc.com's website: http://www.svc.com/silent-damp.html.

Hope that helps


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I forgot to put this in earlier when I actually did the roster update, but please welcome our newest Club members: Jacka and marcus3067.







We are delighted that you saw fit to join our happy group.









Jacka, regarding your request for tips, what steps have you already taken so far? What tweaks have you tried, and what method do you use when you're overclocking? Supplying this information will go some way towards our Club members helping you optimize your overclock.


----------



## Jacka

http://img408.imageshack.us/my.php?i...erclockpk2.png


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Jacka, have you tested your various components (i.e., CPU, motherboard, and RAM) for their respective maximum potential speeds? I personally find this is necessary to determine which component is holding an overclock back; it makes analyzing problems a far more simple process if you know what each of these components, on their own, can do.

Good luck.


----------



## Jacka

Motherboard is fine upto 275, as is the CPU.

If I upped my RAM divider to 20 and cranked up the CPU more, would performance increase or decrease?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

With K8s, a good rule of thumb is "CPU speed is king." Provided you haven't really slowed your RAM down so much (via applying really big dividers and/or using really slack timings) without making significant gains in CPU speed (and reference clock speed -- HTT Frequency, or "FSB"), total system performance ought to be enhanced by higher CPU speeds.

A good benchmark to measure your system's performance is to use Everest Ultimate's RAM bandwidth benchmark. I've forgotten whether or not you need to have purchased a license for this program to be able to use the built-in benchmarks, but in case only the licensed version has the benchmarks you want to use, SiSoft SANDRA (available for free download here) also has an equivalent RAM bandwidth benchmark component.

Basically you want to set up a battery of tests to see which overclocking configuration gives you the most performance. RAM bandwidth is a useful benchmark because it's a measurement of how much data your system can process within a given time unit. Obviously, the higher the numbers, the better the performance.









I apologize if this post is light on specific information vis-a-vis settings (I don't know if this was what you were expecting); however, I do believe very strongly in the value of experience and self-discovery.









There will be more opinions that will help you along, I'm sure, in due time.

Good luck!


----------



## Jacka

http://img511.imageshack.us/my.php?i...chemem2zg5.png

How's that one for memory bandwith?

Just for comparison, this is the test with the speeds I showed CPU-Z of earlier.
http://img526.imageshack.us/my.php?i...chemem3qx2.png


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## txtmstrjoe

Those results show that the slower CPU speed is, in fact, yields more performance. The bandwidth is significantly better in Write, Copy, and Read, and Memory Latency. (This answers the question you posed a couple of posts up, as well.)

What these screenshots suggest to me is that you can gain more performance through optimizing your RAM setup. On its own, how fast have you been able to get your RAM to run?

(If I don't answer immediately, that means I've gone to bed.







Sadly, I have to be at work in the morning.)


----------



## Jacka

We can have the rest of the conversation later, I have some lectures to go to now.

Back in 9 hours!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

We'll all be here, Jacka!


----------



## Blitz6804

Jacka: when you are running your RAM at DDR 366, your timings are the same as for DDR 333. If you loosen them to the DDR 400 specs (3-3-3-8) you may be able to increase the HTT without reducing your divider. If it can be done, and I make no guarantee, you could theoretically run HTT=250 which gives you DDR 400 at 200:166. If 2.5 V is not stable, consider trying 2.6 V on the RAM. I would not add more voltage than that unless you have sinks and/or active cooling.

In an "ideal" world, DDR 400 will run at 6400 MBps. Your "best" overclock is presently 5604 MBps. The RAM is well configured in the sense that DDR 366 is 5856 MBps theoretically. That is 95.7% of the theoretical bandwidth. Generally, the tighter the timings, the closer to theoretical you will get. This is why 939 rigs can out-bandwidth AM2 megahert-for-megahert. Also, why 939/AM2 can defeat LGA775 by the same matter. The question is here: is it better to have a tight-timed, lower speed (which is close to theoretical, but the theoretical is not that fast) or a loose-timed, higher speed (which is far from theoretical, but the theoretical is rather fast)? 939/AM2 generally prefer the former, LGA775 generally prefer the latter.

Anecdotally, consider my friend's LGA775, my 939 prior to death, and my AM2 now. His RAM runs at DDR2 1110 at 5-7-7-20-2T. He scores around 8500 MBps. 8500 MBps is around 48.3% of the theoretical 17,600 MBps. My 939 ran DDR 500 at 3-3-2-8-1T. It scored around 7900 MBps, which is 98.6% of the theoretical 8000 MBps. My AM2 runs DDR2 813 at 4-4-4-12-1T. It scores around 9330 MBps. This is 71.7% of the theoretical 13,008 MBps.

The end of this number storm: higher speed is not always king. We see that the high-speed, high-latency loses to the low-speed, low-latency, which in *turn loses to the middle ground of both. Proper testing and optimization is required to find the best solution.


----------



## Jacka

Is superPi a good enough benchmarking tool for testing the system performance?

Also, does "tight timings" mean lower numbers?


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes, lower numbers mean tighter timings. And no, SuperPi is not sensitive enough to tell the difference. If you care solely about memory bandwidth, Everest/SANDRA is the way to go. If you want total performance, something more substantial like 3DMark06 is the way to go. In either event, I recommend running the test 5/7/9 times and then averaging the middle three results. If the standard deviation is more than 1-3% of the average, I would run it a few more times and then take a new average. This is especially true for 3DMark06, as it is horribly inconsistent.

(Standard deviation: take the difference between Trial X and the average. Square the difference. Sum all the *squared differences. Square-root the sum. Divide by the number of trials. This can be done in Excel with =STDEV(x1,x2,x3,...,xN).

That is:

sqrt((x1-xA)^2+(x2-xA)^2+(x3-xA)^2+...+(xN-xA)^2)/N

Where "sqrt()" calls for the square root and "x^2" means squared. x1 is trial 1, x2 is trial 2, et cetera, and xN is trial N. xA is the average of all trials.)


----------



## N2Gaming

ok show off, I don't understand the need for excell & scientific formulas for testing memory. None the less that's good stuff. oh yeah welcome to our club for our new members Jacka and marcus3067









joe, thnx for the link to the free test.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Actually, there is something to be said about the importance of having as tight a set of RAM timings as possible when it comes to improving bandwidth.

To wit, consider these results from recent tests (I've been doing so much testing lately, and not even on my dedicated testing rig







) focused primarily on tracking bandwidth with respect to differences in timings:

Opteron 170 @ 2.80GHz, 2.5-3-3-8-1T (my current configuration still undergoing testing; OCCT-stable, but I haven't yet run this through S&M)









Opteron 170 @ 2.80GHz, 3-3-3-8-1T (my previous 24/7/365 configuration; S&M-stable)









The supplied screenshots are not "best testing results" for these configurations; like Blitz suggested (and as I recommended several posts ago), I run these tests several times and take the average of my results. Almost always there will be a result that is almost a perfect average amongst the sampled data, and these are what I supply to the group when presenting data.

Notice that in almost all the bandwidth figures, there is an ever-so-slight improvement in the configuration with tighter CAS Latency (2.5 vs. 3); the screenshot is slightly misleading in that the Write Bandwidth for the 2.5CL result is 14MB/s slower than the 3CL result. In most of my data collected, that benchmark is actually faster (but never significantly so; the difference is, at most, within 20 or so MB/s) for the 2.5CL setup as well. The eye-opener for me, though, is the Latency figure. 3.2ns may not big in the grand scheme of things, but when units of time are what you're looking at, every little bit adds up. The 3.2ns difference, by the way, is fairly consistent in the samples of data that I have.

Now, let's look at the impact of increased CPU speed (and increased RAM speed) on bandwidth:

Opteron 170 @ 2.9GHz, 3-3-3-8-1T (S&M-stable)









Opteron 170 @ 3.0GHz, 3-3-3-8-1T (has yet to be S&M-stable; likely will never be, to be honest)









Here the effects are more obvious: Increased CPU speed AND increased RAM speed yield increases in bandwidth and a slight improvement in Latency. Clearly, this shows that you get bigger gains in bandwidth through increasing your reference clock given that all other settings are kept constant (i.e., CPU multiplier -- which determines your CPU speed --, RAM divider, and timings). This proves that if you can overclock your RAM and keep it in reasonable step with your CPU overclock, you get noticeable gains in bandwidth and an improvement in latency. This means your system is able to process more data in a shorter amount of time.









Here's the rub: All these data make obvious that more performance is better, BUT there is always a corresponding effect on the stability (or lack thereof) of your machine. The faster you make it run, the less stable it is. I have given up any hope of running my rig at an S&M-stable 3.0GHz whilst keeping the bandwidth up (increasing the divider and loosening the timings really kills the bandwidth; I lost around 2600MB/s across the board and lost maybe 3.5ns in latency @ 3.0GHz, 3-4-4-8-2T @ DDR400). Running faster always mean subjecting your system to higher stresses. This is why I have chosen to experiment with a 2.5CL @ 2.8GHz. I don't lose too much in terms of bandwidth compared to 2.9GHz, 3-3-3-8-1T, but I gain much in terms of Latency.

Sorry for the gigantic wall of text, but I thought that all these data can be useful to someone. I hope this encourages people to do some testing, and to maybe help people understand how the pieces fit with each other.


----------



## Blitz6804

"Notice that in almost all the bandwidth figures, there is an ever-so-slight improvement in the configuration with tighter CAS Latency (2.5 vs. 3) . . . ."

Notice, the increase on read is 3.5%, the decrease on latency is 6.1%. This is hardly a de minimis effect. I would be interested to see if there is any difference in 3DMark06 or similar between the two. 3DMark03 will likely accentuate the point a little clearer if you have it.

The theory I gave with result averaging only gives a quasi-statistical sampling. For actual statistics to come to play, you would need to run an excess of one hundred tests. While the bandwidth test takes only a minute, the 3DMark06 test is 9 minutes or so. If someone would be unwilling to spend 13 hours, 20 minutes in front of their PC repeatedly running the bandwidth test, I seriously doubt they would be willing to spend 4 days, 10 hours, 40 minutes doing the same. I think the paid version of 3DMark06 has a loop, but the point is still valid: who would want to wait approximately four-and-a-half days to see the results of a change?

N2Gaming: That is sorta my shtick. "Behind the keyboard" testing will only go so far. If you get every speed rating as high as possible with the lowest latency possible while maintaining the lowest downtime possible for the lowest cost possible, you have achieved overclocker's nirvana. The rub of course comes in where you value your priorities. Some would rather have a slightly faster PC that sporadically crashes. Some would prefer, such as Joe and I, a slightly slower PC that is almost infallible. Or at least, as infallible as a switched-on PC can be. I will admit that I have done a "suicide" or twelve for bragging rights, but I would never be able to tolerate the instability at those speeds for daily use. My overclock is RAM-optimized, not CPU-optimized. By sacrificing RAM speed or some stability, I could ramp the CPU up higher. That is a trade-off I am just not willing to do.


----------



## N2Gaming

ok so lets say for gaming sake of it. would more ram bandwith be better then cpu speed or does it depend on the game?


----------



## Blitz6804

The quick answer: maybe.

Long answer:

Equal CPU speeds, an increase in RAM bandwidth will generally increase performance.

Equal RAM bandwidth, an increase in CPU speed will generally increase performance.

The goal of course is to increase both. Failing that, you need to do repeated experiments to find the optimum configuration.


----------



## thlnk3r

Joe, that's a very intuitive test. Interesting info. Nice noticeable difference between 2.8Ghz 3-3-3-8-1T versus 3Ghz 3-3-3-8-1T. Goes to show you that cpu speed is still the king when comes to these processors.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
"Notice that in almost all the bandwidth figures, there is an ever-so-slight improvement in the configuration with tighter CAS Latency (2.5 vs. 3) . . . ."

Notice, the increase on read is 3.5%, the decrease on latency is 6.1%. This is hardly a de minimis effect. I would be interested to see if there is any difference in 3DMark06 or similar between the two. 3DMark03 will likely accentuate the point a little clearer if you have it.

Blitz, I just don't see any justification for running 3DMark06 in comparison with changes there were done to memory sub-timings ect....

Good luck

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
ok so lets say for gaming sake of it. would more ram bandwith be better then cpu speed or does it depend on the game?

N2Gaming, I honestly don't think a huge amount of frames will be gained with "more memory bandwidth" versus a faster processor speed. If someone has a set of DDR266 and DDR400 this would be a nice test to run


----------



## Blitz6804

Thlnk3r, it is my experience that there is in fact an effect. It is minor, but it exists. A 3.3% change in my bandwidth correlated to a 0.6% change in my 3DMark06 score. A test like 3DMark03, will likely be more sensitive to the change. (A test like Crysis benchmark will likely be unaffected.)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
"Notice that in almost all the bandwidth figures, there is an ever-so-slight improvement in the configuration with tighter CAS Latency (2.5 vs. 3) . . . ."

Notice, the increase on read is 3.5%, the decrease on latency is 6.1%. This is hardly a de minimis effect. I would be interested to see if there is any difference in 3DMark06 or similar between the two. 3DMark03 will likely accentuate the point a little clearer if you have it.

The theory I gave with result averaging only gives a quasi-statistical sampling. For actual statistics to come to play, you would need to run an excess of one hundred tests. While the bandwidth test takes only a minute, the 3DMark06 test is 9 minutes or so. If someone would be unwilling to spend 13 hours, 20 minutes in front of their PC repeatedly running the bandwidth test, I seriously doubt they would be willing to spend 4 days, 10 hours, 40 minutes doing the same. I think the paid version of 3DMark06 has a loop, but the point is still valid: who would want to wait approximately four-and-a-half days to see the results of a change?

This, of course, assumes you regard 3DMark0x as a worthwhile benchmark for total system performance in the first place. In my experience, I find that it is not because it places far too big a bias on the video card. This is certainly true of the latest version (3DMark06). I don't have (nor care to use) 3DMark03 because its usefulness is moot because of the opposite problem: It was never meant to consider modern video cards (it is only for cards with SM2.0, yes?) Moreover, at least for our machines, the CPU and RAM components' performance are not as measurable on 3DMark06 as they are for quad-cores or for C2Ds that are significantly OCed.

Also, though you are of course correct with your exhortations on proper methodologies in statistical analysis, it seems you missed my point by ironically confirming it. Whether or not we're engaging in "true" statistical analysis is moot; my point is that one run for any benchmark is completely unreliable. This is why I always run any performance measurements several times to eliminate the extreme high and low results from the reckoning. I love my testing, but I'm not obsessive; I have a life. Testing, like overclocking, is just one of myriad pleasures I choose to do. You're exactly right in saying it is "quasi-statistical sampling." If I was getting paid to do scientifically-perfect testing and had access to more testing equipment to do things properly, then we'll talk about true statistical analysis.

Your point about the percentages in the differences in the bandwidth data and latencies is noteworthy. A 6+% improvement is fairly good.


----------



## Blitz6804

And, at high enough resolutions, the CPU becomes almost transparent on most games. At 1920x1200, there is a 1 FPS difference from 3.25 GHz and 2.25 GHz in Call of Duty 4: Modern Warfare. Seriously. That's it. Yes, stop laughing.

My theory for 3DM03 is that since the tests are designed for a slower CPU, you should in theory have a higher score. Larger numbers are easier to play statistics with. This is why if you want to find the density of a paper clip, you do not get the volume of one by dropping it into a pipette (or even cruder; a beaker) and measuring its displacement. Further, you do no weigh a single one on a scale. It is hard to accurately measure 1 g on a scale that has a margin of error of 0.5 g. On the other hand, the common practice is to do displacement and mass measurements with a finite, large number of them and divide across. The problem of the matter is not one of accuracy, but of precision. Yes, the benchmark programs can accurately determine how your hardware is performing compares to itself. They cannot however repeat it consistently, therein lies the imprecision.

(To further punctuate the difference of the accuracy/precision, consider the following. You have a dart board. You are throwing seven darts per trial.

If you throw these darts, and every single one comes within 5 cm of the bull's eye, but in various directions, you are accurate, but not precise.

If you throw these darts, and every single one is directly above the bull's eye, but in varying degrees of closeness, you are precise but not accurate.

This of course, assumes you were aiming for the bull's eye, or at least the bull, with all fourteen throws.)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

And therein lies a key qualifier for my point (unstated, but I will stress now): I myself am not looking for "precise" measurements per se. Again, this stresses the importance of making multiple runs (we both agree on this point, actually). Instead, I'm far more interested in tracking the *trends* vis-a-vis the effects of settings adjustments. Statistics are just numbers, after all; far more important, in my opinion, is correct analysis of the data. Analyzing the trends of the results is the payoff, not the results themselves.

Your argument of high resolutions is, of course, true, but it ignores one point: Who changes the resolutions you run 3DMark0x at? I certainly don't. At default resolutions (1280 x 1024, if I'm not mistaken), you can easily tell the influence of the video card, but not the CPU + RAM with our hardware. This, again, is why I personally invalidate 3DMark0x as anything but a 3D performance metric.

To each his own, then.


----------



## Blitz6804

I have tried 3DMark06 at a non-standard rez a few times. I have never ran 3DMark03. With the default (1280x1024) the effect of Crossfire is not exactly stellar. There is a 23% change in the score. I will try sometime today the difference between crossfire / no-crossfire at my native 1920x1200. The effect should be larger if the rumors are true. For the counter point, I will also try the CPU-bound resolution of 640x480. In theory, crossfire should have no effect. (Again, if the rumors are true.)

Personally, I see the influence of the CPU far more than the GPU in 3DMark06. This is why I personally never compare my 3DMark to someone else's score. Most games favor the GPU whereas 3DMark favors the CPU. This is why some half-jokingly call it "CPUMark." As I have said, a 44% CPU speed reduction resulted in a 1 FPS change in Call of Duty 4. That same change is being tested in 3DM06 within a minute of me posting this.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Maybe your Crossfire setup isn't faster than my HD 4870, but in my recent mad quest to get an S&M-stable 3.0GHz, I also ran 3DMark06. Without quoting any numbers, at the default resolutions only (which of course acts as a control), I had very mixed results with the testing. Even with a 200MHz gain (from my previous 24/7 OC of 2.8GHz) in CPU speed, my 3DMark06 scores did not reflect a noticeable improvement at all; in fact, in some runs, the system was scoring LOWER @ 3.0GHz than it did at 2.8GHz (hard to explain definitively why this happened; an unstable system, perhaps?). This suggests that my video card is way way faster than the rest of my system (the HD 4870 is being bottlenecked). I had expected some noticeable improvement overall, and certainly in the CPU component, but did not see it at all in the data.

All this is telling me is that the time is near when I should have to deploy my testing machine for some real testing action. I'm not in the mood to keep swapping parts on my gaming rig; I'm not able to play games at all these days!


----------



## alexgheseger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Maybe your Crossfire setup isn't faster than my HD 4870, but in my recent mad quest to get an S&M-stable 3.0GHz, I also ran 3DMark06. Without quoting any numbers, at the default resolutions only (which of course acts as a control), I had very mixed results with the testing. Even with a 200MHz gain (from my previous 24/7 OC of 2.8GHz) in CPU speed, my 3DMark06 scores did not reflect a noticeable improvement at all; in fact, in some runs, the system was scoring LOWER @ 3.0GHz than it did at 2.8GHz (hard to explain definitively why this happened; an unstable system, perhaps?). This suggests that my video card is way way faster than the rest of my system (the HD 4870 is being bottlenecked). I had expected some noticeable improvement overall, and certainly in the CPU component, but did not see it at all in the data.

All this is telling me is that the time is near when I should have to deploy my testing machine for some real testing action. I'm not in the mood to keep swapping parts on my gaming rig; I'm not able to play games at all these days!










Well, that's actually a property of the 4870s. Even a QX6700 at 3.6 Ghz (versus 3.2) failed to really affect my 3dmark06 score. A pair of 3870s (not terribly sure about 3850s though) will bench better in 3dmark06 than a pair of 4870s.

It's just a funny property of these new cards. Turn up the resolution, and you'll see your score remain pretty much unchanged though.


----------



## Blitz6804

Wrong flavor of K8, so take with a grain of salt. But a K8 none-the-less.

Here we see 2250 MHz. I did not have time to run multiple runs, but let us assume a 3% margin of error. This gives me 8711-9250:









Here we see 3250 MHz. Again, assuming a 3% margin of error. This gives me 11,878-12,612:









Thus, a 44% change in CPU speed correlates to a change of 22.1-30.9% in my 3DMark06 score. Again; we are talking a 2.1% change in frame rate in CoD4; a 22.1-30.9% change in 3DMark06. I think 3DMark06 is a bit more CPU heavy than CoD4. This experience is similar to many games I have tried, but I have not the time to prove it now. (I should have left for class 10 minutes ago.) The most glaring example to the opposite I can think of is SimCity4: Rush Hour. The CPU plays a much larger role in that game than the GPU, which explains why my laptop (Intel T7700 Merom; Core2 Duo @ 2.4 GHz with a Mobility Radeon HD 2600) outperforms my desktop (Athlon64 X2 5400+ Brisbane; AM2 K8 @ 3.25 GHz with a pair of Radeon HD 3850s).


----------



## txtmstrjoe

In my opinion, what we're seeing, then, is the principle of diminishing returns. Your example is defined by a huge delta between CPU speeds (1GHz). Of course you'll see a massive change in the benchmark score. I would almost call this an apples vs. oranges comparison (because the variable factor, CPU speed, tests at two extreme points with a wide gulf in between).

I've been looking at things at a much smaller range of CPU speeds (200MHz). The effects and the results I'll get will have much smaller deviations than your examples.

Perhaps we are quibbling on details that have obscured the central point; we have entered into a zone where such details are arguably irrelevant in the context of the larger discussion at hand (whether or not 3DMark06 is a valid total-system benchmark). I think the best way to test this definitively is to use a slower SM3.0 video card, which will not overwhelm the entire system. Modern GPUs being what they are, they dominate the benchmark and mask the effects of a CPU/CPU+RAM OC.

Fortunately I have a previous-gen GPU I can run that kind of testing with.







But such tests will be for when my testing machine is back online.


----------



## Blitz6804

Alright. When I get back from school, I will run 3.0 GHz. (250x12.) If it will run, I will also try 3.5 GHz. (250x14.)

I disagree with the notion of a modern video card masking results. We see that the CPU is not a "bottle neck" as people often say. If you look ONLY at my CPU scores, 3.25 scores 44% higher than 2.25. 3.25 is 44% faster than 2.25. This is a perfect correlation, at least, if we ignore margin of error. (If we consider margins of error, the average is still 44%, so I think it safe to do so.)

If the CPU were in fact "bottlenecking the video card," you would expect the SM2.0 and SM3.0 scores to also vary by 44%. Thus, the total score would vary by 44%. I would interested to see if this can be proved with a Skt 754 / Skt A CPU with my 3850 AGP. I have a Skt 423 P4 sitting around; I may try that for an example.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


If the CPU were in fact "bottlenecking the video card," you would expect the SM2.0 and SM3.0 scores to also vary by 44%. Thus, the total score would vary by 44%. I would interested to see if this can be proved with a Skt 754 / Skt A CPU with my 3850 AGP. I have a Skt 423 P4 sitting around; I may try that for an example.


Blitz6804, I have in fact ran these tests before. Motherboards used were GA-K8NSC-939 and GA-K8VM800M-RH S754. Processors were Opteron 146 and a Sempron 64 2800+ (S754). Opteron was clocked at 2.6Ghz and the Sempron was clocked at 1.6Ghz. I used the same video card (ATI X800Pro AGP). On the Opteron system I was getting almost 2,300 3DMark06 marks, on the Sempron system I was barely hitting 500 marks. Obviously processor speed makes a huge difference. Also note that this was dual channel vs single channel.

Why are we debating about 3DMark06 anyways? The tool should only be used for comparisons









Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

This was not what I meant. (Comparing a 146 to a 2800+.) I meant to take a slow processor, such as a Thunderbird, Palomino, or Barton. Something that clearly will be much slower than the graphics card. Then, test several speeds in 3DMark06. If as speed increases, the CPU, SM2.0, and SM3.0 scores increase proportionately linear, I would suggest that the CPU is in fact "bottlenecking" the graphics card. If the CPU goes up linearly, but the SM2.0 and SM3.0 increase non-proportionately, then I would suggest that the CPU is not "bottlenecking" the card.

At least, this is my theory.

That is, a "bottleneck" would occur when the CPU physically not work fast enough to provide data to the card. As such, a linear increase in speed should provide a corollary linear increase in the graphics tests.

I am presently running the test at 3.0 GHz, I will keep you all posted as to what happens. (I will append to the results prior such that it is in a central location.)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


This was not what I meant. (Comparing a 146 to a 2800+.) I meant to take a slow processor, such as a Thunderbird, Palomino, or Barton. Something that clearly will be much slower than the graphics card. Then, test several speeds in 3DMark06. If as speed increases, the CPU, SM2.0, and SM3.0 scores increase proportionately linear, I would suggest that the CPU is in fact "bottlenecking" the graphics card. If the CPU goes up linearly, but the SM2.0 and SM3.0 increase non-proportionately, then I would suggest that the CPU is not "bottlenecking" the card.

At least, this is my theory.

That is, a "bottleneck" would occur when the CPU physically not work fast enough to provide data to the card. As such, a linear increase in speed should provide a corollary linear increase in the graphics tests.

I am presently running the test at 3.0 GHz, I will keep you all posted as to what happens. (I will append to the results prior such that it is in a central location.)


This is a good restatement of what I've been saying as far as my findings go.

I must own up, though, because in retrospect I should have been more explicit in declaring the crucial qualifier to the point: My tests were done with the HD 4870. I have said many times (and not just in the context of the present discussion), both in private with Blitz and with thlnk3r, and in the Club, that the HD 4870 in particular is an example of gross overkill with a S939 system especially running 3DMark06's default resolution (1280 x 1024). The card is capable of moving its data much much faster than the rest of the system.

This is also why I said that testing a much slower video card with the rest of the system as is in 3DMark06 will show more influence on the CPU/CPU+RAM side of the equation. However, with a monstrously powerful card like an RV770 (or even RV670s in Crossfire), or any nVidia equivalent, 3DMark06 then is more of a graphics card metric than anything else.


----------



## Blitz6804

Darn. I just finished running tests, and I have to say, I am disappointed with the results. Whether it be this board, or a faulting of AM2 K8s, I do not know, but I cannot compare different speeds. I forgot that the RAM divisor changes depending what speed I am running at. On my Toledo, if I set the RAM to DDR 500, it was always DDR 500. Here, the RAM varies around with each speed. 3250 goes to 813, 3000 goes to 750, 2750 goes to 785, 2500 goes to 833, 2250 goes to 750. Accordingly, the data does not correlate cleanly.

I can tell you from the trend lines what I saw. As CPU speed when up, SM3.0 went up directly proportional. SM3.0 seems to matter solely on the CPU. (Credence to Thlnk3r's "CPU speed is king.") The SM2.0 and CPU scores (and consequently, the overall score) seem to be effected by the RAM speeds*. I accidentally deleted the data, but I did have a nice looking chart, but I think to properly test this I will need to have a lazy day to tweak. Essentially, this is what the data points looked like:

CPU Speed: / / / /
RAM Speed: / \\ \\ /
SM2.0: / - - /
SM3.0: / / / /
CPU: / - - /
Overall: / - - /

Going off memory, if I remember right, the CPU speeds were 1620, 1801, 1799, 2104, 2333 correlating to 2250-3250 respectively.

The numbers are funny to be sure. That said, I decided to run bandwidth testing. The bandwidth consistently goes up as the CPU speed goes up. The latency has no pattern. This is peculiar; most peculiar. I will need to experiment with this for my next "blog" I think.

This does prove the point of always test your bandwidth; do not rely on CPU-Z or the BIOS to tell you what your RAM is doing for you.

*I think there was something funny going on with 2750. It was refusing to run several times; might be strangely unstable for some reason. Like say perhaps, the RAM trying to run at DDR2 833.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
This was not what I meant. (Comparing a 146 to a 2800+.) I meant to take a slow processor, such as a Thunderbird, Palomino, or Barton. Something that clearly will be much slower than the graphics card.

Blitz6804, the Sempron 64 2800+ is much slower then my X800Pro hence the differences in scores. Perhaps I am missing your point. Of course you're going to get lower scores with a K7.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
(Credence to Thlnk3r's "CPU speed is king.")

Was my comment ever doubted?









Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes, you did miss my point. My point was that on the SAME CPU, you should notice trends as speed change. My contention was that if SM2.0/3.0 move increase in direct correlation with CPU, then the CPU was bottlenecking the card. If they do not increase in direct correlation, but rather, only standard correlation, it was not.

The slowest I can get this CPU is 1000 MHz. Perhaps that will be low enough. As I said, I will be doing testing on this another day.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


My point was that on the SAME CPU, you should notice trends as speed change


Blitz, that is obvious with any processor overclock.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


My contention was that if SM2.0/3.0 move increase in direct correlation with CPU, then the CPU was bottlenecking the card.


I honestly don't understand what your trying to accomplish here. Isn't it obvious though that your SM2.0/3.0 scores will go up with an increased cpu speed?

Good luck


----------



## nategr8ns

hai guys!


Win!


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


I honestly don't understand what your trying to accomplish here. Isn't it obvious though that your SM2.0/3.0 scores will go up with an increased cpu speed?


I am saying the ratio of the slopes of change. If it is 1:1, it denotes something different than say, 2:3.

Gratz Nate!


----------



## RAMDAC

Got my Opty finally stable @ *3.1GHz*























http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=439691


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RAMDAC*


Got my Opty finally stable @ *3.1GHz *























http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=439691


----------



## Blitz6804

Congrats RAMDAC. A 185 @ 3.1 GHz, DDR 518 @ 2.5-3-3-7, and HD 48xx's in Crossfire? Hey... do you mind maybe "loaning" me that rig for the next few years?


----------



## thlnk3r

Nate, great job on the folding. Hopefully your electricity bill hasn't gone up to much









Ramdac, congrats on the 3.1Ghz OC. I hardly ever see anything above 3Ghz unless it's a 165 or 170.


----------



## RAMDAC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


...Hey... do you mind maybe "loaning" me that rig for the next few years?


Hmm...
Let me finish the tests and reach hopefully near 3.3GHz, and we'll see further. - I really love that 939 rig and I would never ever sell it but loan it...? Perhaps for a few weeks, not years.







(Need to sleep a night or two over it...)
Actually only the GFX'es could be of interest for you, as you've switched to the AM2 generation.

@ boonie2
@ thlnk3r

Thanks!









I run it under Vista x64 but I'll switch back to XP (32bit) and break all 185er limits. 
NO HOLDS BARRED
This is war now: RAMDAC vs. RAMDAC


----------



## Blitz6804

In all fairness, I think your memory bandwidth is better. You might be out benching me. With the 48xx's, I am sure you kick my card's butts, but I don't have the PSU to run them.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ramdac*


got my opty finally stable @ *3.1ghz *























http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=439691






























nice goin


----------



## Jacka

4079 3DMarks
SM2: 171
SM3: 1926
CPU: 980

Isn't that a terribly low score?


----------



## N2Gaming

Just wanted to respond about a server I saw on ebay a few days ago. "The suction" ended Reserve not met with a high bid of $1825.00







I don't remember who I was talking to about it but man you hit the nail on the head w/that one. Ouch to much money for my blood


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jacka*


4079 3DMarks
SM2: 171
SM3: 1926
CPU: 980

Isn't that a terribly low score?


Not really. I used to run an X1950XT (both in single card and in Crossfire), and it scored maybe a little bit higher (low 5000s?) because it was a dual-core (Opty 170 @ 2.72GHz, if I'm not mistaken).

(Now I regret deleting my old Crossfire rig from my Systems list when I sold the motherboard to Blitz...)


----------



## awdrifter

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jacka*


4079 3DMarks
SM2: 171
SM3: 1926
CPU: 980

Isn't that a terribly low score?


It's about right for your pc. I used to run a X1950GT 512mb (654/661) with a Athlon X2 2.81ghz, it scored about 5400 points in 3Dmark06.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RAMDAC* 
Hmm...
Let me finish the tests and reach hopefully near 3.3GHz, and we'll see further

RAMDAC, wow I look forward to those results. If stable that will be probably one of the fastest S939 processors I have seen yet!

Good luck

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Just wanted to respond about a server I saw on ebay a few days ago. "The suction" ended Reserve not met with a high bid of $1825.00







I don't remember who I was talking to about it but man you hit the nail on the head w/that one. Ouch to much money for my blood

N2Gaming, that was me that you were talking with. Yeah that price ($1825) does not even come close to what that server actually costs. I believe they start at 5 - 6 grand. Still though, it would have been a nice machine for a lab or to acquire some experience


----------



## N2Gaming

thnk3r, I thought it was you I was talking to about it but was not sure. Apparently they bought either 5 or 6 new and never used the one up for bidding. It has just been collecting dust ever since they bought it. That's too much money to have around collecting dust and never being used. Then again if they have that much money to buy all those severs then I'm sure they got a tax wright off out of it some how! lol









Does any one have any suggestions for me in regards to getting my opty 180 overclocked. I have tried to make simple changes and the system wont boot. example. fsb from 200 to 205 wont boot. Lower multi wont boot. change divider wont boot. maybe it's the method of how I'm doing it.


----------



## Jacka

What is the fastest S939 processor that's readily available to buy these days?


----------



## nategr8ns

congrats RAMDAC!








Jacka, I believe that the fastest at stock is the Opteron185 (there's probably an Athlon X2 version at the same speed though). The Opteron 165 will _generally_ clock higher, however.


----------



## Blitz6804

Nate: The X2 counterpart to a 185 is an FX-60.

Jacka: The most readily available? Likely the 170. I recall this was the easiest to find (yet not exactly cheap) when I was looking into replacements of my dead Toledo. As has been said, 3DMark06 is VERY CPU heavy. As you note, your CPU score is around 980 for 2.5 GHz. At 2.2 GHz, a dual core gets about 1600.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Jacka, TigerDirect is probably the only place around that still sells new OEM Opteron 180s. All things considered, this is actually very attractively-priced. I cannot find reliable sellers of any other S939 CPUs.

Well... except for me, anyway...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Does any one have any suggestions for me in regards to getting my opty 180 overclocked. I have tried to make simple changes and the system wont boot. example. fsb from 200 to 205 wont boot. Lower multi wont boot. change divider wont boot. maybe it's the method of how I'm doing it.










N2Gaming, perhaps I have forgotten but were you running anything in the DFI board before the Opteron 180? Perhaps you need to perform a simple CMOS reset to clear any parameters that might be conflicting with your new processor.

Good luck

Joe, I would be reseller as well if my golden Opteron 170 chip went up for sale


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, perhaps I have forgotten but were you running anything in the DFI board before the Opteron 180? Perhaps you need to perform a simple CMOS reset to clear any parameters that might be conflicting with your new processor.

Good luck


I was running my a64 3500+ venice. I have since installing the opty 180 had to clear cmos a couple of times due to trying to over clock.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, I would be reseller as well if my golden Opteron 170 chip went up for sale









Hehe

But only to ME, right?









Right?










I still hate myself for that trade. Which is why you're buying me lunch tomorrow... and the next time...

... and in Pomona at the Computer Expo in November!


----------



## Blitz6804

And his airfare to get here in September.

Again, as a reminder, there is a party at my apartment for all club members September 03, 2009. Please RSVP by July/August and book your plane tickets early to make sure you get the cheapest fare. (I think most airlines let you book up to 4-6 months in advance.)


----------



## Domino

Hey, is there a way to overclock the CPU without overclocking the ram? Or somehow change it so that there is a ratio instead of 1:1 with overclocking the FSB?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Domino*


Hey, is there a way to overclock the CPU without overclocking the ram? Or somehow change it so that there is a ratio instead of 1:1 with overclocking the FSB?


That's the whole idea with RAM dividers.









Somewhere in your BIOS there ought to be a section that deals with RAM configuration. It can be expressed as either a MHz figure (typically in gradients of 200MHz, 166MHz, 133MHz, and 100MHz, though other gradients are also possible) or as a ratio (1:1, where one number is the reference clock ("FSB") and the other number is the RAM frequency).

I suggest you take some screenshots of your BIOS; that would be the easiest way to point you in precisely the right direction.









Good luck.


----------



## N2Gaming

Happy Holloween every one.



































:d evilsmil




























:aa skull:




























:devi l:


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah.... just a bit late... As of you posting this, it is already All Souls Day in NY. Granted, you are in Cali, you only had 2.5 hours to spare.

Pity I have no candy to gorge myself on.

I may be a bit sparse the next two days. SUNY at Buffalo has an undergraduate mock trial society. That society is hosing an invitational this weekend. I have volunteered to be a judge for those trials. So... I will be playing the part of a judge for about 12 hours over the next two days. Factor in homework, and that might be my weekend.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I was running my a64 3500+ venice. I have since installing the opty 180 had to clear cmos a couple of times due to trying to over clock.


N2Gaming, were you able to go past 205HTT on your 3500+ Venice?

Good luck


----------



## Jacka

That's a 2% improvement in 3DMark score, hmm.

Any tips?


----------



## Blitz6804

Since you are now running the RAM at the DDR 333 spec of the SPD, can you tighten the timings down to 2.5-3-3-7-1T? (Ensure that tRFC = 14. tRC is already 10, although, it should be 11 for your current timings; tRFC should be 15 at present.)


----------



## Jacka

Any idea why my memory divider changed from 14 to 17?

It's still set at 166MHz in the bios, hmm.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, were you able to go past 205HTT on your 3500+ Venice?

Good luck


 as a matter aof fact I was. I think I got it up to 220 or 225 for 2500Mhz


----------



## RAMDAC

New personal SuperPi 1M record!









http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=440514


----------



## Jacka

Cache failed, hmm.


----------



## Jacka

About this tRFC thing, does that increase as I tighten my timings?


----------



## Domino

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


That's the whole idea with RAM dividers.









Somewhere in your BIOS there ought to be a section that deals with RAM configuration. It can be expressed as either a MHz figure (typically in gradients of 200MHz, 166MHz, 133MHz, and 100MHz, though other gradients are also possible) or as a ratio (1:1, where one number is the reference clock ("FSB") and the other number is the RAM frequency).

I suggest you take some screenshots of your BIOS; that would be the easiest way to point you in precisely the right direction.









Good luck.










Alright, here are some screen shots:
http://img219.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0225qr8.jpg
http://img354.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0227qs7.jpg


----------



## TestECull

Domino: Adjust Mem Clock At Next Boot. That's the divider. Smaller the mhz, the more it will divide. That is the ram clock it wants to run if the FSB was at stock speeds.

Bad news guys...my chip's starting to electromigrate. :\\ I reset it to stock before I did kill it, but it just wasn't stable anymore. I still get the odd physics error or two(Mainly in Rigs of Rods) but atleast it's stable at stock still. :\\ I noticed instabilities when I was playing RoR and vehicles that didn't explode normally were turning TnT, and then in Gmod some ragdolls had textures attached at the wrong spot...and Gmod was a bit crashhappy. :\\


----------



## Domino

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
Domino: Adjust Mem Clock At Next Boot. That's the divider. Smaller the mhz, the more it will divide. That is the ram clock it wants to run if the FSB was at stock speeds.

Bad news guys...my chip's starting to electromigrate. : I reset it to stock before I did kill it, but it just wasn't stable anymore. I still get the odd physics error or two(Mainly in Rigs of Rods) but atleast it's stable at stock still. : I noticed instabilities when I was playing RoR and vehicles that didn't explode normally were turning TnT, and then in Gmod some ragdolls had textures attached at the wrong spot...and Gmod was a bit crashhappy. :

But i don't want to lower it anymore, anywhere to make it so that every time i overclock the fsb by 4mhz the ram only goes up by 1? make a 4:1 ratio?

and what is this 16up 16 down or 8up 16down thingy?


----------



## Domino

whoa wait a minute, testecull, whats happening to your cpu? holy crap


----------



## Domino

anyone know how a 180 does for overclocking and competing with the more modern chips?


----------



## TestECull

I had my Vcore at 1.65V, where stock is 1.4, and the core was starting to degrade. I reset it to stock before I completely killed it...

the 16^ 16V thing is the lanes of the HTT. Leave at 16/16.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jacka* 
Any idea why my memory divider changed from 14 to 17?

It's still set at 166MHz in the bios, hmm.

Yes, I have an idea. Athlon64 processors have an internal memory controller. When you enter a RAM divider, it does not simply divide RAM as it would in an Intel CPU. I have explained this thoroughly in my blog entry, but the long and short of it, as you change total CPU speed, you also change the divisor of the RAM. (Where divisor and divider are different. Divider means the number you set in the BIOS, such as 166 MHz, whereas divisor would be the number that CPU-Z reports, such as 14.)

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RAMDAC* 
New personal SuperPi 1M record!









http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=440514

Darn tasty RAMDAC. I think I can safely say we are all jealous of your rig.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Domino* 
Alright, here are some screen shots:
http://img219.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0225qr8.jpg
http://img354.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0227qs7.jpg

At those settings (235/133) your computer is likely running 2350 MHz with DDR 294. That RAM is a little slow I think. Perhaps you can lower your CPU's multiplier from the stock 10 to permit you to get the RAM faster? (I take it you dropped it that low because 166 was too fast for the given bus speed.)

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Domino* 
But i don't want to lower it anymore, anywhere to make it so that every time i overclock the fsb by 4mhz the ram only goes up by 1? make a 4:1 ratio?

and what is this 16up 16 down or 8up 16down thingy?

There is no way to explicitly lock that on an AMD CPU. Because of the way RAM speeds are computed, an exact 4:1 ratio would be impossible to hold. For that matter, I think it would be impossible to do an Intel rig either, because I cannot think of a reason why they would want to put a DDR 100 divider. (200:50.) As I have said, you do not need to leave your CPU's multiplier at 10x; if the math works better, you might be better served with 9x or 8x. Experimentation is the key.

As to the 16/16, as TestECull has said, 8/8 and 16/16 have little difference on stability but a huge difference on performance. Keep it at 16-bit. (Some chipsets, my nF3 for example, lack this feature completely.)

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Domino* 
whoa wait a minute, testecull, whats happening to your cpu? holy crap

Electron migration. Essentially, the voltage, or potential difference across the CPU, ran at such a high level for such a long time, the electrons of the silicon are rearranging to cause minor short circuits. This causes the CPU to become unstable. Reducing it to stock voltage and speeds can slow the advance of this, but it is often fatal. Keeping the CPU cool at all times will help prevent this, as would lowering voltage. This is why you see the "rule" of 1.50-1.55 V on air, 1.55-1.60 V on water, and anything higher should be on TEC or phase change.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Ok guys, sorry I've been away...I'm still working on some rig troubles here.

But seriously....HOW DID THIS HAPPEN? And it was Windows, FireFox, CPUz stable (not Orthos). I tried running Orthos and it just hard shut down my rig. I am still assuming motherboard limitation.


----------



## Domino

Thanks a lot for the info!









I've found an old Dell machine here that has been having some problems. Found out that the ram in it was PC3200, and whoa, put that ram in here. Though the timings were different and and I think it screwed a few things over (ex. MSN pop-up news thingy, and my Razer Mouse Drivers), but got those fixed up decently. Can ram actually do that if 2 different types are thrown in?

I'll try the mulitplyer and change it down to 8x, would a higher FSB hurt this PC too much though?


----------



## Blitz6804

There is no risk of damage of running a computer with two different types of RAM. However, make sure you run them for the settings of the weaker RAM DIMMs. That is, if two are PC 3200, 2-3-3-6, and two are PC 2700, 2-2-2-5, you would need to run them at DDR 333, 2-3-3-6. If both are PC 3200, only latencies factor in. Expect to get a lower overall overclock. If you had Windows Vista, I would tell you take the 2 GB in a heartbeat. With XP, you might be better served with the faster speeds.

As to the higher FSB: it should not "hurt the PC too much." There is a chance it will need more NB voltage, but it might not. I would try the 9x first and see what it can do. If you want help with the numbers before testing a run, let me know, and I will hook you up.


----------



## Domino

Well, I tried them out on a bunch of numbers and overall, the best performance I can get that runs stable is 2.2GHz with 186MHz ram.


----------



## Blitz6804

What testing have you done to determine that this is the best speed? What numbers have you tested out?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
as a matter aof fact I was. I think I got it up to 220 or 225 for 2500Mhz

N2Gaming, this may indicate that your current processor (opteron 180) may not be capable of those speeds or perhaps we're missing some specific settings in your BIOS that may need adjustment.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RAMDAC* 
New personal SuperPi 1M record!









http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=440514

RAMDAC, well done









That is quite impressive!

Good luck guys


----------



## Domino

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


What testing have you done to determine that this is the best speed? What numbers have you tested out?


Well, I'ved tried:

8x Multi
FSB: 235, 240, 245, 250, most of those faid.
RAM: 166, 133, 100 - even 100 failed to post.

9x Multi
Same thing

10x Multi
Wouldn't post past 215

My link is at 800 MHz

So far, I get 140ish in the Source test and it seems that stock speeds and 2.2GHz are acting the same way? Anyways, what would be a good core speed with what good ram speed? I did not fool around with any timinings.....


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Electron migration. Essentially, the voltage, or potential difference across the CPU, ran at such a high level for such a long time, the electrons of the silicon are rearranging to cause minor short circuits. This causes the CPU to become unstable. Reducing it to stock voltage and speeds can slow the advance of this, but it is often fatal. Keeping the CPU cool at all times will help prevent this, as would lowering voltage. This is why you see the "rule" of 1.50-1.55 V on air, 1.55-1.60 V on water, and anything higher should be on TEC or phase change.



I was running 1.65Vcore on air...and my temps were fine untill I went to my aunt's house and had 'normal' ambients to work with...that's when the instabilities started to occur.

One can liken running an extremely high Vcore, especially in these older procs that have already been running for a few years, to asking a 65-year-old man to run a 5-mile marathon, every day, untill he can't even get up anymore...I aborted my OC before I completely killed my chip, as I don't want to have to blow my 50 bucks on a new 3800+ and be stuck with this X800 any longer than I have to


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, I would never run that high for 24/7, meat locker or not. I keep my CPUs as close to stock as possible for 24/7. However, I have been know to try suiciding at 1.800 V...

Stupid thing STILL wouldn't join the one gigahert overclock club.

I do not suppose you were lucky in that the problem went away when you returned to your domicle?

Domino: Not adjusting the timings may very well be holding you back. A lot of times the SPD is the best choice only for a stock processor; overclock it and the HTT, and you will face some issues.


----------



## RAMDAC

Domino,

The increase of the Vcore is just one part, the perfect ratio between Vcore, Vdimm, NB- and SB voltage is another one.

A too high Vcore would sometimes behave as a too low one. 
- Experimenting is the key here and I would start that with just 2 DIMM slots populated (let's say the 2x 512MB).

It's PC3200 RAM, so adjust them to 200MHz (1:1) and give them some extra voltage (2.85 - 2.95v) and change the timings to CL3.0-3-3-8 
Set the Multi to x10.0 and the FSB up to 250MHz
The LDT/FSB ratio (HTT Link) to x4.0
Increase/decrease the Vcore to max. 1.5v
NB Voltage to 1.47 - 1.60v
SB Voltage to 1.85 - 1.90v

and if available:
NB Analog Voltage to 1.47 - 1.60v
LDT Voltage to 1.34 - 1.47v

If you can POST therewith but not get into Windows, we'll look further with timings, Odd Divisor, DRAM Drive/Data Drive Strength and so on.

If you can't POST we'll look further with the voltages.


----------



## Domino

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RAMDAC* 
Domino,

The increase of the Vcore is just one part, the perfect ratio between Vcore, Vdimm, NB- and SB voltage is another one.

A too high Vcore would sometimes behave as a too low one.
- Experimenting is the key here and I would start that with just 2 DIMM slots populated (let's say the 2x 512MB).

It's PC3200 RAM, so adjust them to 200MHz (1:1) and give them some extra voltage (2.85 - 2.95v) and change the timings to CL3.0-3-3-8
Set the Multi to x10.0 and the FSB up to 250MHz
The LDT/FSB ratio (HTT Link) to x4.0
Increase/decrease the Vcore to max. 1.5v
NB Voltage to 1.47 - 1.60v
SB Voltage to 1.85 - 1.90v

and if available:
NB Analog Voltage to 1.47 - 1.60v
LDT Voltage to 1.34 - 1.47v

If you can POST therewith but not get into Windows, we'll look further with timings, Odd Divisor, DRAM Drive/Data Drive Strength and so on.

If you can't POST we'll look further with the voltages.









I don't have any form of cooling on my RAM and my CPU only has stock cooling. I can't really go out and spend a lot of money so I am kinda limited. The CPU cooler seems to work just fine actually, I haven't seen it go over 52.C in the OCCT stress test for some reason (probably just because it is winter - summer was only 61.C). Would my system run safe with a higher voltage? I know with the CPU it would eventually just stop and the PC freezes, but with the vcores going a lot higher on the ram and whatnot, would I say goodbye to these things?

I'll give it a shot, I'll up the voltages by one point on the things suggestion. Thanks









I'm confused with my boared. It is a mATX and it seems to only have a NB and not a SB. There is a chip in the bottom right next to my videocard but thats it. Usually on ATX boards I see 2 chips with heatsinks on them, I only see the one?


----------



## Domino

Alright,









FSB is at 230 (235 and 240 wouldn't post)
HTT Link is at 800
Ram was dropped to 166, didn't try 200
Ram voltage was upted from 2.66 to 2.75
NB Voltage couldn't find a setting.
SB didn't exist?

I'm going to run OCCT and see if the Valve Stress Test went up any. Thanks for the help. Any way I can monitor this thing for the RAM, etc, to make sure the PC is running fine? And if I leave it on for a long period of time, I shouldn't really have to worry about it? It would auto shut itself down right?

[EDIT] Well that failed pretty fast.
The timmings are in that order all the time right? In the BIOs it says something like 3-8-3-5 or something in that order.

I'm right not at 2.75 Volts again, FSB 220, HTT 800, 10x multi, and seeing if this works. Ram is at 1:1 (200) also.


----------



## boonie2

Just my opinion but you might want to think about losing the 256s and add 2 more 512s or a nice 2-1gb kit when u have the funds .. good luck


----------



## RAMDAC

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Domino* 
I'm confused with my boared. It is a mATX and it seems to only have a NB and not a SB. There is a chip in the bottom right next to my videocard but thats it. Usually on ATX boards I see 2 chips with heatsinks on them, I only see the one?

Oops, my fault!









We're talking about an nF4 board and there aren't any north-/southbridges.


----------



## Domino

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RAMDAC* 
Oops, my fault!









We're talking about an nF4 board and there aren't any north-/southbridges.

Ouch, so my hopes of going higher than 2.2GHz 440MHz ram are gone?


----------



## TestECull

Put your ram on a divider, Domino. You can get higher than 2.2 and still get 440mhz ram out of the deal.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Yeah, I would never run that high for 24/7, meat locker or not. I keep my CPUs as close to stock as possible for 24/7. However, I have been know to try suiciding at 1.800 V...

Stupid thing STILL wouldn't join the one gigahert overclock club.

I do not suppose you were lucky in that the problem went away when you returned to your domicle?



I reset to stock before I returned home, and I don't feel like prodding it again untill I have a replacement CPU on hand incase it does let go, and I'll try to make that replacement an X2. I found a pretty good deal for one on Fleabay considering how rare they're getting these days. If/when I get either another 939 chip or an AM2 mobo/proc/ram on hand, I will most certainly rape this Venice for all it's worth tho


----------



## Jacka

This is atleast 0.7s faster than 3-3-3-7 timings with the same clock speed.


----------



## Domino

Ok, now I'm at 2.4GHz but my ram is set a 160MHz. Highest voltage I could go was 2.85 and there we go, it finally post


----------



## boonie2

PUSH / TEST / PUSH / TEST / PUSH / TEST














try it without those 256s your ram combinations are going to hold you back


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jacka*


This is atleast 0.7s faster than 3-3-3-7 timings with the same clock speed.


Jacka, that's almost a second faster. Good job


----------



## Domino

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*
















PUSH / TEST / PUSH / TEST / PUSH / TEST














try it without those 256s your ram combinations are going to hold you back


Ya, it was holding me back. Now I'm at 2.3GHz and its stable, I've also uped the Vcore to 1.375 and everything is ok so far


----------



## N2Gaming

does any one know if the big water se is any good and worth $80.?


----------



## Blitz6804

"Worth" is a subjective term. TweakNews seems to like it. At load, they purport it to be about 10Âº C cooler than an XP-90. Newegg Reviews are mixed. New, it comes in at $125. Virtual-Hideout loves it.

Precursory glances seem to indicate that an XP-90 is comparable to a CNPS9700.


----------



## N2Gaming

Blits, hey I'm still working on black n blue she's at 3.4GHz and I'm working on stability just changed from 4 4 4 15 to 5 5 5 18 to see if it helps read is up to 9681 and lat at 46.3 so I though water cooling might help me push the volt envelope a little. thanks by the way.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Domino*


Ya, it was holding me back. Now I'm at 2.3GHz and its stable, I've also uped the Vcore to 1.375 and everything is ok so far










Ive been reading all your posts over the last few weeks , Have an offer for ya , If you PM me your info. Im willing to donate some good Ram , extra I have lying around that I cant seem to sell


----------



## Domino

How well does a 3800x2 manchester do on 1.4 volts?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Domino*


Ok, now I'm at 2.4GHz but my ram is set a 160MHz. Highest voltage I could go was 2.85 and there we go, it finally post










Why is it that NO ONE has mentioned the Socket 939 quirk with 4 sticks to this guy yet?

When running 4 sticks of memory on Socket 939, 99% of the time, you're automatically defaulted to 166MHz (DDR333) and 2T Command Rate. PERIOD. Anything past THAT is an overclock. 200MHz (DDR400) is no longer your stock speed.

So as its been said, take those 2x256MB sticks OUT. They're not doing anything except holding you up!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


Ive been reading all your posts over the last few weeks , Have an offer for ya , If you PM me your info. Im willing to donate some good Ram , extra I have lying around that I cant seem to sell

























! That's so kind of you boonie, thank you! Oh....you were talking to Domino







. Better jump on that Domino! Boonie's got some great RAM.....I've checked out his for sale thread before.


----------



## Blitz6804

Pioneer: the 4-stick quirk does not apply here usually. Usually, you must have 4 sticks of 512 or larger to come into play. Since two sticks are 256 MB, the thought never crossed my mind.

However, I then remembered that it is not a density issue. According to my Abit manual, it is a double-sided RAM issue. If you are using double-sided RAM, as is common for sticks 512 MB or larger, you are limited to DDR 333 with four sticks as stated. With single-sided RAM, as is common for sticks 256 MB or smaller, you may run up to DDR 400 despite having four sticks.

Good call!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Pioneer: the 4-stick quirk does not apply here usually. Usually, you must have 4 sticks of 512 or larger to come into play. Since two sticks are 256 MB, the thought never crossed my mind.

However, I then remembered that it is not a density issue. According to my Abit manual, it is a double-sided RAM issue. If you are using double-sided RAM, as is common for sticks 512 MB or larger, you are limited to DDR 333 with four sticks as stated. With single-sided RAM, as is common for sticks 256 MB or smaller, you may run up to DDR 400 despite having four sticks.

Good call!


Blitz, I think Pio is referring to the amount of stress the IMC (integrated memory controller) receives when 4 DIMM slots are populated regardless of density size.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Let me clarify. It appears that the 939 IMC has only room for three ranks. Ranks used on one channel may not be used on the other channel. This then seems to indicate it is possible to experience this issue with only two DIMMs. If you mount a dual-rank DIMM in each of the channels (thereby running the RAM in single-channel mode) I would hypothesize that you would be reduced to DDR 333. Running single rank on both channels, or running dual on one and single on the other maintains the three rank limit thereby permitting DDR 400.

This could be wrong, but would someone like to test the theory for me? Ideally, someone with a BIOS that you can save configurations in. Then you can save the overclock, swing a DIMM from dual channel to single channel, reset the CMOS so it will read from the SPD, and boot. If you read DDR 333, my theory is strengthened.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I would test it for you if I understood what you were saying Blitz. I'm not all here right now.


----------



## Blitz6804

Okay. Let me clarify.

1) RAM can be either single sided or double sided. Each side is called a rank.
2) My theory is that a 939 IMC is limited to three ranks for DDR 400.
3) If you exceed three ranks, the RAM slows down to DDR 333.
4) Rank is determined by channel, not by DIMM slot, and the sum of all channels is the IMC.

Therefore, to test the theory, I propose:

1) Take a system at stock with two, dual-rank DIMMs.
2) Mount the DIMMs on the same channel to give dual-channel mode. This is two ranks for the purposes of the IMC. Two on one channel, zero on the other.
3) Ensure the system is running DDR 400.
4) Move one DIMM to the other channel to give single-channel mode. This is two ranks in each of the two channels to give four ranks for the purposes of the IMC.
5) See what speed the system defaults to. I hypothesize DDR 333.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Okay. Let me clarify.

1) RAM can be either single sided or double sided. Each side is called a rank.
2) My theory is that a 939 IMC is limited to three ranks for DDR 400.
3) If you exceed three ranks, the RAM slows down to DDR 333.
4) Rank is determined by channel, not by DIMM slot, and the sum of all channels is the IMC.

Therefore, to test the theory, I propose:

1) Take a system at stock with two, dual-rank DIMMs.
2) Mount the DIMMs on the same channel to give dual-channel mode. This is two ranks for the purposes of the IMC. Two on one channel, zero on the other.
3) Ensure the system is running DDR 400.
4) Move one DIMM to the other channel to give single-channel mode. This is two ranks in each of the two channels to give four ranks for the purposes of the IMC.
5) See what speed the system defaults to. I hypothesize DDR 333.


Sadly, if I understood what you've just said correctly, your theory is instantly invalidated by more than one example I can cite.

I used to run the same RAM that thlnk3r has (G.Skill F1-3200PHU2-2GBNS), and in our quest to find out what ICs lurked beneath the heatspreaders we had a great look at the distribution of chips on the PCB.

There are two ranks (double-sided) of chips per DIMM.

My Patriot PC3200LKs (2 x 1GB) also have their chips in two ranks per DIMM.

Mounted on any board, the motherboard always detects the SPD correctly and sets them to the default timings at DDR400 (with the reference clock at stock, of course).

Obviously, your condition that there may not be more than three ranks fpr DDR400 speeds is instantly invalidated.


----------



## Blitz6804

Then perhaps it is not solely an IMC issue. The manual I am looking at to make my theory is based on the 3200CFX. Would you like to boot up the test board and see if the theory holds water there Joe?

My question further: your testing on the nF4: did you only run them in the major slots of the channels or you also tried the minors? That is, did you only do A1/B1, or also tried A2/B2?


----------



## pioneerisloud

I'd have to agree with joe here. I've ran SEVERAL dual sided sticks in single channel before, and its always been defaulted to DDR400.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Then perhaps it is not solely an IMC issue.


Blitz, the IMC issue was just a thought that Pio threw out there. It is very possible that the stress levels on the integrated memory controller could be the culprit.

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Then perhaps it is not solely an IMC issue. The manual I am looking at to make my theory is based on the 3200CFX. Would you like to boot up the test board and see if the theory holds water there Joe?

My question further: your testing on the nF4: did you only run them in the major slots of the channels or you also tried the minors? That is, did you only do A1/B1, or also tried A2/B2?


No need for testing, for I've seen the effects on any S939 motherboard I've personally played with. That includes the LANParty UT CFX3200-DR, the AT8-32X, the KN8-SLI, the A8V-E SE, the ASUS A8N32-SLI Deluxe, the Jetway GT4SLI, the TForce 6100-939, and the LANParty UT nF4 Ultra-D. I've swapped RAM channels, DIMM slots, and all other permutations.

With a 2 x 1GB RAM kit (all of them are composed of two dual-rank DIMMs, if I'm not mistaken), at stock reference clock speeds, the motherboard will *always* default to DDR400. I've never ever seen an exception.

This is clearly a case of documentation being superseded by actual performance fact. In other words, I don't care if the manuals say 1+1 = 2 if I've personally seen (as have many others) that that is fuzzy math. Real world experience > whatever a manual might say.


----------



## Blitz6804

*Is shocked and appalled that the present Joe persona clearly is unmasked.*

Thlnk3r: I understand that is what he said. IMC stress has long been believed to be the cause of this phenomenon. I am trying to see if there is another factor here. Perhaps the interplay between the IMC and the Chipset.

Joe: Then I do believe Abit lied to me. Have you seen the manual for the Abit AT8-32x?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


*Is shocked and appalled that the present Joe persona clearly is unmasked.*

Thlnk3r: I understand that is what he said. IMC stress has long been believed to be the cause of this phenomenon. I am trying to see if there is another factor here. Perhaps the interplay between the IMC and the Chipset.


You can't see his whole face, can you?









I don't think it's a chipset issue, either. My post above yours shows that the phenomenon is consistent with a whole range of chipsets. nVidia, ATi, and VIA are all represented. Besides, with S939, the chipsets have nothing to do with controlling or regulating any memory functions.


----------



## Domino

What does that T1 and T2 stand for?


----------



## Blitz6804

Command rate.


----------



## Domino

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Command rate.

What's best, T1 or T2?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Domino*


What's best, T1 or T2?


Domino, 1T supposedly provides better "performance" then 2T. The differences in my opinion are very small and only noticeable in benchmarks. If you're able to keep a stable overclock while running 1T then by all means keep running that. In most cases a command rate of 2T is ran with an overclock for added stability vs 1T.

Here's an interesting thread that discusses this: http://www.overclock.net/amd-memory/...ate-there.html.

I've ran both settings before in the past and I didn't notice a difference...especially in games.

Hope that helps


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Domino*


What's best, T1 or T2?


Setting your RAM's Command Rate to T1 gives you more performance in terms of improved bandwidth. In other words, at the same RAM frequency, T1 will yield better performance compared to T2.

On the other hand, setting the Command Rate to T2 can often yield more RAM MHz when you're overclocking your memory. Where a given set of RAM have a frequency limit (let's say, just for the sake of this discussion, 220MHz, or DDR440) at T1, setting the Command Rate to T2 will often (but not always) yield more MHz. Increasing RAM frequency has the same happy consequence of improving your memory's bandwidth as well.

So the question is, which setting will yield more in terms of MHz (and therefore bandwidth) from the RAM? Unfortunately, this is an impossible question to answer; only testing and benchmarking will give definitive answers. Much depends on your RAM; it may overclock well at 1T, or it may get you many many more MHz at 2T. This is why you should always test.









Hope this helps.


----------



## JEmmaB

Hello, link below could be useful, ;D

TCCD DDR600+ DFI nF4 Ultra/SLI guide


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JEmmaB* 
Hello, link below could be useful, ;D

TCCD DDR600+ DFI nF4 Ultra/SLI guide

JEmmaB (fellow Pinoy!), thanks for the link! I'd love to someday have some TCCDs to play with (though, since they're no longer available new as far as I know, it'll be a stroke of luck for this to happen).


----------



## JEmmaB

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
JEmmaB (fellow Pinoy!), thanks for the link! I'd love to someday have some TCCDs to play with (though, since they're no longer available new as far as I know, it'll be a stroke of luck for this to happen).









Thanks it's the least I can do.









txtmstrjoe nice to know that you are a "kababayan"!


----------



## Blitz6804

939 K8 with DDR 600+? I think that would kick butt of any AM2 system out there. As it is, my AM2 is not substantially better bandwidth-wise than 939. (About DDR 550.)


----------



## HothBase

That's pretty awesome, although I don't think I'd manage a 300MHz FSB, but then again, I don't own an LP nF4


----------



## JEmmaB

What I got with my Team Xtreem Hermes DDR550 4x512MB. 
Lower than the default speed of my mems.


----------



## boonie2

See what you did ? Now Ill have to see what my 4-512 Corsair DDR550s will do


----------



## JEmmaB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


See what you did ? Now Ill have to see what my 4-512 Corsair DDR550s will do










Good Luck on your Corsairs.









The following threads could also prove useful.









The Giant Memory Thread

The DFI NF4 stable settings thread


----------



## Blitz6804

How is the bandwidth though JEmmaB? Might be pretty good being 1:1, even if DDR 416. If the timings are set right, you would expect around 6600 MBps or so.


----------



## JEmmaB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


How is the bandwidth though JEmmaB? Might be pretty good being 1:1, even if DDR 416. If the timings are set right, you would expect around 6600 MBps or so.


It's quite good but not great.









And tweaking DFI boards can be really frustrating; just testing it anyway, will still use my OCZ Plats for everyday use.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JEmmaB*


It's quite good but not great.









And tweaking DFI boards can be really frustrating; just testing it anyway, will still use my OCZ Plats for everyday use.










JEmmaB, in case you're still running your 4 x 512MB set right now, could you perhaps satisfy my personal curiosity and run either SiSoft SANDRA's or Everest Ultimate's RAM Bandwidth test and post a screenshot of the results?

I personally would try to satisfy this curiosity on my own, but I don't have 4 x 512MB DIMMs.







(Come to think of it, I have never owned more than one kit of 2 x 512MB DIMMs...)

And yes, I agree with you wholeheartedly: DFIs are sometimes very frustrating. Only recently have I recovered some semblance of enthusiasm to go play with the CFX3200-DR again...


----------



## thlnk3r

JEmmaB, thank you for posting that helpful links. I'll make note of them









Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Only recently have I recovered some semblance of enthusiasm to go play with the CFX3200-DR again...









Joe, don't remind me of the horror


----------



## Blitz6804

*Hands Joe a whip and a chair.*


----------



## TestECull

Don't forget your Litt'ull Friend!


----------



## Blitz6804

I am curious TestECull... where did you get your icon? It is reminiscent to both Half-Life and Anime. That is, you get a hot-looking lady with mismatched eye colors in a suit that looks just like the Black Mesa suit with the HL2 logo in the back.


----------



## JEmmaB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


JEmmaB, in case you're still running your 4 x 512MB set right now, could you perhaps satisfy my personal curiosity and run either SiSoft SANDRA's or Everest Ultimate's RAM Bandwidth test and post a screenshot of the results?

I personally would try to satisfy this curiosity on my own, but I don't have 4 x 512MB DIMMs.







(Come to think of it, I have never owned more than one kit of 2 x 512MB DIMMs...)

And yes, I agree with you wholeheartedly: DFIs are sometimes very frustrating. Only recently have I recovered some semblance of enthusiasm to go play with the CFX3200-DR again...










I'm not using the setup right now; but I can give it a try again later when I return from work.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


JEmmaB, thank you for posting that helpful links. I'll make note of them









Joe, don't remind me of the horror










If I find new interesting threads; I'll be sure to post them.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JEmmaB*


If I find new interesting threads; I'll be sure to post them.










JEmmaB, thank you. I'm sure the club also really appreciates the useful information


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
JEmmaB, thank you. I'm sure the club also really appreciates the useful information









I appriciate any good infomation from all sorces. Thanks to everyone for making this forum and this thread worth sticking around.


----------



## TestECull

Hey...thinkr...yer a mod. Sticky this thread will ya?









:\\ More instabilities from my Venice. Yesterday I got three freezes in an hour's time, just at random and for no reason. Fingers crossed it makes it past christmas still functional enough to use...No freezes before or since, it's been running pretty good, but those three random freezes were strange...they came 30 minutes after I played the last half of Episode 2, without any problem, and happened with only Firefox and MSN running...


----------



## HothBase

Are you sure it is the CPU that is causing instability? How come? What happened to it?


----------



## Blitz6804

It started the path toward electromigration.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


More instabilities from my Venice. Yesterday I got three freezes in an hour's time, just at random and for no reason. Fingers crossed it makes it past christmas still functional enough to use...No freezes before or since, it's been running pretty good, but those three random freezes were strange...they came 30 minutes after I played the last half of Episode 2, without any problem, and happened with only Firefox and MSN running...


TestECull, are the freezes occurring at stock clocks as well?

Have you performed any diagnostic checks on your memory and hard drive recently? Perhaps the crashes were due to an application error in the HL...it's possible.

Good luck


----------



## TestECull

Yes, I reset it to stock clocks when my massive overclock got unstable, to try to slow down the spiral. I just got a bluescreen about 15 minutes ago, with a two-day interval between te BSOD and the latest freeze. Funny thing, 30 minutes prior I rebeat the L4D demo and it ran flawlessly...am I seeing a trend here? Runs a Source game flawlessly for as long as I want it to, thirty minutes pass, error. :\\ And no, I haven't run any hdd tests, but I'm also booting off my rather new, <1yr old, WD 160 so I doubt that's the problem...as far as memtest86, might be a good idea and if I can get a bootable flash stick(As I have no functional floppy drives) or if I can remember how to use Vista's dos-based memtest app, I'll probably scan my ram this weekend.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
Are you sure it is the CPU that is causing instability? How come? What happened to it?


For two and a half weeks or so, I was running it at 2761mhz and 1.65vcore on air, rock solid too. It started to get unstable, I instantly reset it to stock and it's been useable.

My core is damaged, tho, and I can only hope there's enough of it left come January to try a 2.8 or 3.0 suicide run into Windows. If there is, I will most certainly upload all kinds of pix, bios screens and CPU-z dumps to see what I can get out of it before the core is 100% fubar, provided this xmas I get enough money to replace the platform or CPU.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Alright, figured I'd turn to my 939 brothers for this one. Nobody else seems to know of anything.

But would any of you guys happen to know of a Windows Equalizer I could use to limit certain frequencies (specifically 60Hz)? I don't need an EQ for Winamp, or WMP....just Windows in general. So I can limit that frequency in games and stuff too, just everything. If you do...please post here or here. Help is appreciated, I've already tried a few options already.


----------



## GuardianOdin

I miss having a decent PSU....that is all


----------



## thlnk3r

TestECull, I can't imagine two weeks at 1.65volts leading electromigration so quickly. It takes months sometimes years for that to occur.

Just because your WD 160GB drive is brand new doesn't mean it can't be bad. I've received drives from WD that were bad out of the box. Please download the Western Digital Diagnostic tools and burn them to a CD. Boot to the CD and please perform a surface scan on the drive. You can download these tools by going here: http://support.wdc.com/product/downl...sid=30&lang=en.

As far as I know memtest86+ can be burnt to a CD. You can download the .ISO by going here: http://www.overclock.net/downloads/1...memtest86.html. Burn it as an "image" and boot to it. Run tests 5 and 8 each for at 20-30 minutes.

Let us know

Good luck


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Alright, figured I'd turn to my 939 brothers for this one. Nobody else seems to know of anything.

But would any of you guys happen to know of a Windows Equalizer I could use to limit certain frequencies (specifically 60Hz)? I don't need an EQ for Winamp, or WMP....just Windows in general. So I can limit that frequency in games and stuff too, just everything. If you do...please post here or here. Help is appreciated, I've already tried a few options already.



It should be in your sound drivers if Creative's driver labs didn't fail at life...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


TestECull, I can't imagine two weeks at 1.65volts leading electromigration so quickly. It takes months sometimes years for that to occur.

Just because your WD 160GB drive is brand new doesn't mean it can't be bad. I've received drives from WD that were bad out of the box. Please download the Western Digital Diagnostic tools and burn them to a CD. Boot to the CD and please perform a surface scan on the drive. You can download these tools by going here: http://support.wdc.com/product/downl...sid=30&lang=en.

As far as I know memtest86+ can be burnt to a CD. You can download the .ISO by going here: http://www.overclock.net/downloads/1...memtest86.html. Burn it as an "image" and boot to it. Run tests 5 and 8 each for at 20-30 minutes.

Let us know

Good luck











I will test everything tonite or tommorrow...I forgot to mention the year or so I went with it at 2.6ghz and 1.55v, across two motherboards no less...I am still running a gigstick the P5GD1 had, so there is a strong chance that motherboard damaged that stick like it did the other two I stuck in it...if that stick of ram does turn up bad, I know it's not the CPU causing these errors and might inch back up the speed scale again. :\\ I just dun wanna re-OC it unless I'm sure the core is undamaged, atleast for a couple of months.

Edit: Installing WDDiag right now. Will run a SMART scan, and if it reports errors post back and try to figure out what to do...if that shows healthy, I'll run an extended scan, which will take bloody forever...if it crashes while scanning, will that fubar my drive? It's about three gigs from full and crammed with stuff i dun need to lose/can't exactly redownload/etc...:\\

Edit 2: My 40gig IDE drive failed SMART before I even hit a button, raw read error rate. Passes on all other tests, and the red column is 'Value', at 200. I'm not booting off it(I have quite nicely fubar'd the install of windows on that drive, it couldn't boot even if it tried). Is it possible that it's still causing problems?

Screenshots of test results on the 40:


----------



## Blitz6804

Given that both drives are entirely full (or nearly so; 3.8% and 6.4% free respectively.) I would seriously recommend getting another HDD. Ideally, you will get one big enough to take both drives and then you would only need the one. Further, you usually want to make a new drive twice as big as you currently need for growth. So, if you have the money, you are looking at the 400-500 GB range.

I know with XP, you are incapable of defragmenting a disk that is more than 88% full while maintaining peak stability. I do not suppose you have auto disk defrag turned on? If so, it might keep trying to defrag whenever you go idle, causing it to crash.

"It should be in your sound drivers if Creative's driver labs didn't fail at life..." -TestECull

Yeah, they do. You cannot even use the native Vista drivers for Creative. They phail epically.


----------



## TestECull

I want to get a 1tb drive, but I'll have to do with whatever I can get. The 160 passes all SMART tests. I'm thinking about doing a full scan for bad sectors on the 40, tho...Hopefully nothing crucial on that drive is fubar'd. If it gets enough errors I'll swap it to my mom's box, back up everything but the windows install and zerowrite it. :\\


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


I want to get a 1tb drive, but I'll have to do with whatever I can get. The 160 passes all SMART tests. I'm thinking about doing a full scan for bad sectors on the 40, tho...Hopefully nothing crucial on that drive is fubar'd. If it gets enough errors I'll swap it to my mom's box, back up everything but the windows install and zerowrite it. :


TestECull, I strongly recommend running a full surface scan on both drives *outside*of the OS. Please burn the diagnostic tool to a CD and boot to it. Just FYI, SMART isn't always 100% accurate. SMART might of also failed because it may not have been enabled in the BIOS.

That EB drive is pretty old also. First introduced in 2002 at 5,400RPM with 2MB of cache. Perhaps it's MTBF (mean time before failure) is near.

Please follow up with us on the memtest results, I think we're a bit curious.

Good luck


----------



## lenzo

Sad to say that my 939 rig is no more.
My DFI Ultra D mobo pci slot is dead.
Will part with pieces if anyone is interested. PM me for HZ's or 3700 Sandy.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lenzo*


Sad to say that my 939 rig is no more.
My DFI Ultra D mobo pci slot is dead.
Will part with pieces if anyone is interested. PM me for HZ's or 3700 Sandy.


Lenzo, sad to hear that. So just (1) PCI slot failed and the entire motherboard is unusable?

Good luck


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


TestECull, I strongly recommend running a full surface scan on both drives *outside*of the OS. Please burn the diagnostic tool to a CD and boot to it. Just FYI, SMART isn't always 100% accurate. SMART might of also failed because it may not have been enabled in the BIOS.

That EB drive is pretty old also. First introduced in 2002 at 5,400RPM with 2MB of cache. Perhaps it's MTBF (mean time before failure) is near.

Please follow up with us on the memtest results, I think we're a bit curious.

Good luck











I'll scan it if I can get my mitts on a CD drive to stab in my rig, or a flash drive...I'll figure something out.

I made it a point to enable SMART in the bios, as it crashed again while I was downloading the two apps on another computer. Both of my drives are smart-enabled as well.

AFAIK my 40 is 7200rpm. It's IDE tho, so it's slow as hell. I rarely use it tho, more or less like that storage shed in the backyard that stores all that junk someone wants to keep but has no real use of. And no, it wouldn't surprize me if this thing's life is about over. :\\ It's the single oldest component in my computer right now.


----------



## lenzo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Lenzo, sad to hear that. So just (1) PCI slot failed and the entire motherboard is unusable?

Good luck


Apparently the pci slot is gone. I've attempted installing other cards that I've used on other rigs to no avail (7600gt, 9600GT and 8800GTS 320). I never modded the bottom slot, even if I did it wouldn't be up to snuff. I just let it go and upgraded with a new build.

The DFI served me well for 3 years or so, got it when it was the bomb.
3.03g for 2 years without issue, backed down to 2.75g. 
Sad to see it go.

So here I sit with a 3700 Sandy (KAB1E) and 2x1 g DDR GSkill HZ's (273fsb @3-5-5-8) that I don't have any use for.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


AFAIK my 40 is 7200rpm. It's IDE tho, so it's slow as hell.


Testecull, I'm pretty sure WD400EB-11CPF0 is a 5,400RPM drive. It's a EB...she's an oldy. When it's running does it whine a lot? I have a few of these drives laying around...brings back some memories









Good luck


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lenzo*


So here I sit with a 3700 Sandy (KAB1E) and 2x1 g DDR GSkill HZ's (273fsb @3-5-5-8) that I don't have any use for.










Lenzo, if you don't have any luck selling the parts here then give the For Sale section a shot.

Good luck buddy


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


TestECull, I can't imagine two weeks at 1.65volts leading electromigration so quickly. It takes months sometimes years for that to occur.

Just because your WD 160GB drive is brand new doesn't mean it can't be bad. I've received drives from WD that were bad out of the box. Please download the Western Digital Diagnostic tools and burn them to a CD. Boot to the CD and please perform a surface scan on the drive. You can download these tools by going here: http://support.wdc.com/product/downl...sid=30&lang=en.

As far as I know memtest86+ can be burnt to a CD. You can download the .ISO by going here: http://www.overclock.net/downloads/1...memtest86.html. Burn it as an "image" and boot to it. Run tests 5 and 8 each for at 20-30 minutes.

Let us know

Good luck










Just to confirm, MemTest86+ can indeed be burnt to run as a bootable CD. That's how I have it on my non-DFI LANParty motherboards.


----------



## AMOCO

yes indeed thats how i use it too,lol


----------



## TestECull

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Testecull, I'm pretty sure WD400EB-11CPF0 is a 5,400RPM drive. It's a EB...she's an oldy. When it's running does it whine a lot? I have a few of these drives laying around...brings back some memories









Good luck


As a matter of fact, it's as loud as my Delta as far as whine goes. You can tell there's a motor running in there.









And to think I used to boot off that thing...


----------



## nategr8ns

hey guys, it's been a while since I've posted in here







.
Just a little update on my DFI motherboard: I tried it with a thermaltake 430w which I assume is higher quality than my Ultra 600w (although I can't say for sure, I don't remember the amperage on either one). Still gets stuck on "detecting memory." I can't find any bulging or broken caps. There is a possibility that maybe a little chip broke off, but I highly doubt that. The problem is that I can't really tell which "solder spots" are supposed to have chips on them and which are left empty normally.

Any other opinions?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
hey guys, it's been a while since I've posted in here







.
Just a little update on my DFI motherboard: I tried it with a thermaltake 430w which I assume is higher quality than my Ultra 600w (although I can't say for sure, I don't remember the amperage on either one). Still gets stuck on "detecting memory." I can't find any bulging or broken caps. There is a possibility that maybe a little chip broke off, but I highly doubt that. The problem is that I can't really tell which "solder spots" are supposed to have chips on them and which are left empty normally.

Any other opinions?

nate, I forget now if this suggestion has been offered before, but here's my normal procedure on first boot with a DFI LANParty motherboard:

Clear CMOS (by using the jumper *AND* by removing the CMOS battery) completely
Install only one RAM DIMM in the further orange DIMM slot
Make sure all the power connectors (including the 4-pin molex *AND* the floppy drive power connector) are attached to the board
Reset the jumper to the normal position
The motherboard should be ready for first boot after this.

Hope this helps you, nate!


----------



## thlnk3r

Great suggestions Joe









Nate, if clearing the CMOS doesn't fix the issue then I have feeling you may have to manually assign the sub-timings, voltages ect in the BIOS. Is this HZ set that picky? When it's stuck at "detecing memory", are any of the LEDS on the bottom of the board lit?

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey joe, I thought I would share this with you based on your Avatar. Well I thought it was cool any way. Enjoy


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


nate, I forget now if this suggestion has been offered before, but here's my normal procedure on first boot with a DFI LANParty motherboard:

Clear CMOS (by using the jumper *AND* by removing the CMOS battery) completely
Install only one RAM DIMM in the further orange DIMM slot
Make sure all the power connectors (including the 4-pin molex *AND* the floppy drive power connector) are attached to the board
Reset the jumper to the normal position
The motherboard should be ready for first boot after this.

Hope this helps you, nate!










I have tried all that before, and it didn't work with either PSU.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Great suggestions Joe









Nate, if clearing the CMOS doesn't fix the issue then I have feeling you may have to manually assign the sub-timings, voltages ect in the BIOS. Is this HZ set that picky? When it's stuck at "detecing memory", are any of the LEDS on the bottom of the board lit?

Good luck










I'm actually using a single 512 stick of my old Corsair VS memory. I can not assign anything as the board won't boot...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
I'm actually using a single 512 stick of my old Corsair VS memory. I can not assign anything as the board won't boot...

Nate, have you tried a different CMOS battery? You might experience issues with your BIOS settings saving and perhaps even boot issues when you're at POST.

Good luck


----------



## nategr8ns

I already switched it with another battery (it was a used battery but it read 3.3v).


----------



## lenzo

DFI's are finicky with parts and psu's. A 430w psu will not feed the Lanparty mobo. You'll probably need a psu with more than 25amps on the 12V rail.


----------



## N2Gaming

my enermax is 12v 1 =18A + 12v 2 =18A for a total 12v of 35A it seems to wook good for my sli dr board


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


my enermax is 12v 1 =18A + 12v 2 =18A for a total 12v of 35A it seems to wook good for my sli dr board


N2Gaming, with power supplies that have multiple rails you can't technically add up the 12volt rails to get your total amperage. You take the total wattage across the 12volt rails and divide it by 12. So it's probably lower then 35 amps. Just thought I'd clarify for you.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks, yeah I don't know how to figure wattage and amperages out but I thought my .02 might help nate. My last post was just what the user manual shows.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Thanks, yeah I don't know how to figure wattage and amperages out but I thought my .02 might help nate. My last post was just what the user manual shows.

N2Gaming, no problem buddy


----------



## nategr8ns

Well the first PSU I tried (sig 600w) has an 18a rail and a 20a rail.
I don't remember what the 430w has, but im pretty sure its a single rail.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Well the first PSU I tried (sig 600w) has an 18a rail and a 20a rail.
I don't remember what the 430w has, but im pretty sure its a single rail.


Nate, when it's stuck at "detecting memory" what LED lights are lit up? If you're not to sure where the LED lights are at they should be located on the bottom left of the motherboard. Obvious answer here but you have a speaker hooked up right?

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Because of events of this past weekend, I am seriously considering a semi-permanent retirement from OCN. I tried to say so the other day, but someone found it necessary to delete that post.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Because of events of this past weekend, I am seriously considering a semi-permanent retirement from OCN. I tried to say so the other day, but someone found it necessary to delete that post.












Does this have to do with the political rhetoric in your sig? If so why not go hang with Bush/Cheney, they should have some spare time on their hands.







Just don't go hunting with Cheney!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Because of events of this past weekend, I am seriously considering a semi-permanent retirement from OCN. I tried to say so the other day, but someone found it necessary to delete that post.


Blitz, check your PM's.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 









Does this have to do with the political rhetoric in your sig? If so why not go hang with Bush/Cheney, they should have some spare time on their hands.







Just don't go hunting with Cheney!









If it does , dont take it so hard Blitz , this is a democracy , and the majority of the people have spoken and elected Obama President , nothing personal but ..... suck it up and continue on with your life and your future plans ... lifes what you make it .. if you put yourself in a position to become homeless ... is that Obamas fault?


----------



## thlnk3r

Guys, let's not turn the thread into a debate please unless of course we are debating over S939


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Nate, when it's stuck at "detecting memory" what LED lights are lit up? If you're not to sure where the LED lights are at they should be located on the bottom left of the motherboard. Obvious answer here but you have a speaker hooked up right?

Good luck










I use the onboard speaker, but when i did have an external speaker there still weren't any beeps







.

Three of the diag lights stay on, the first turns off immediately (which means the processor is detected).


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


I use the onboard speaker, but when i did have an external speaker there still weren't any beeps







.

Three of the diag lights stay on, the first turns off immediately (which means the processor is detected).


Nate, I think you've tried this before but go to this thread here and look at "Step 2" under "_Ways of recovering from bios corruption/4 leds of deathâ€¦â€¦_" and tell me if that helps. What kind of POST messages are you getting before it gets stuck at "detecting memory"?

Good luck


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Nate, I think you've tried this before but go to this thread here and look at "Step 2" under "_Ways of recovering from bios corruption/4 leds of deathâ€¦â€¦_" and tell me if that helps. What kind of POST messages are you getting before it gets stuck at "detecting memory"?

Good luck










Already done step two







.

What do you mean post messages? I'm not getting anything, I'm pretty sure it has to detect the memory first :x


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
Already done step two







.

What do you mean post messages? I'm not getting anything, I'm pretty sure it has to detect the memory first :x

Nate, can you explain in detail what happens when you switch on the machine? If you aren't getting any POST messages at all then that is a different story.

Good luck


----------



## nategr8ns

I turn it on, fans spin up, a single LED turns off.

Thats it


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


I turn it on, fans spin up, a single LED turns off.

Thats it











I see that with dead cpu's all the time.







Hope that's not it.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
I turn it on, fans spin up, a single LED turns off.

Thats it









Nate, I was getting this same thing as well the first time I hooked up my DFI nForce4 board. Apparently the culprit was my power supply. It's still unclear if the power supply itself was bad or not because all rails checked out fine with a multimeter plus it worked fine in other systems. I ordered a Corsair VX550 and it solved my problems. The PSU I had before was a Seasonic S12 500W. Not saying Seasonic is bad or anything but I think the DFI was just extremely picky.

The other time I ran into this was when I didn't have a standoff properly installed in the case. It was shorting the board which prevented a boot (stuck at 3 LEDS).

I know you already tried another PSU but it's worth testing with another one.

Good luck buddy


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Nate, I was getting this same thing as well the first time I hooked up my DFI nForce4 board. Apparently the culprit was my power supply. It's still unclear if the power supply itself was bad or not because all rails checked out fine with a multimeter plus it worked fine in other systems. I ordered a Corsair VX550 and it solved my problems. The PSU I had before was a Seasonic S12 500W. Not saying Seasonic is bad or anything but I think the DFI was just extremely picky.

The other time I ran into this was when I didn't have a standoff properly installed in the case. It was shorting the board which prevented a boot (stuck at 3 LEDS).

I know you already tried another PSU but it's worth testing with another one.

Good luck buddy










Well I've kind of run out of PSUs








but its not in a case, I've tried it in many places, but none of them were metal







.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Well I've kind of run out of PSUs








but its not in a case, I've tried it in many places, but none of them were metal







.


Nate, was this DFI board ever working or did you receive it like this? Sorry it's been a while since we discussed this issue with you.

Good luck


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Nate, was this DFI board ever working or did you receive it like this? Sorry it's been a while since we discussed this issue with you.

Good luck










received it like this, so it was probably like this before.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

If you were local, nate, I'd definitely help you with some troubleshooting parts swaps.

I'm with thlnk3r here in suspecting that the PSU is what the board is not having a good time with. These DFIs are finicky not only with RAM, but also with PSUs.


----------



## nategr8ns

darn








I can try it again with my 600w sometime, but I don't think it will work.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


darn








I can try it again with my 600w sometime, but I don't think it will work.


I second that Joe.

Nate, I can't be certain it's the PSU but the 3 LEDS constantly lit up is not a good sign. For me the 3 LEDS was solved by purchasing a new PSU.

I wonder if your BIOS chip is bad. Could be corrupted









Have you given DFI a call yet to ask their opinion? The 3 LEDS would be the error code to give them. Perhaps maybe they can send you a new BIOS?

Good luck


----------



## shortfuse

ok what mobo u using? DFI? i remember back when when i tried DFI lan party(hence the AVATAR) it didnt work withmy seasonic s12 and so with my ultra x-connect psu. i returned my s12 psu and got a newer version and it worked then again it stoped then it worked it was on and off. with all that hassle with the psu i ended up using my trusted MSI mobo and everything started to work again. its not the PSU its the mobo. i cant remember the reason why its not compatible with DFI the game from DFI forums had explained it to me the reason jst couldnt remember. maybe try looking at the archives @ diforum? i say switch back to ur old mobo.

i used to be a member of this club what happend? i guess 3 yrs of no posting they forget lol.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shortfuse* 
ok what mobo u using? DFI? i remember back when when i tried DFI lan party(hence the AVATAR) it didnt work withmy seasonic s12 and so with my ultra x-connect psu. i returned my s12 psu

Shortfuse, thanks for informing us about that









I thought I was the only one with a S12 that was experiencing this odd issue. The last suggestion I have for Nate is to just try another BIOS. I'm certain DFI will work something out over the phone. I think a new BIOS is like $20...fairly cheap fix (if that is the issue).

Good luck guys


----------



## nategr8ns

I have been using my MSI board. I was testing the DFI with all older parts (3800+ single core, 512mb of ddr400 ram) but until a few weeks ago I only had 1 PSU. I won the second PSU in a freebie though








The warranty is up, but I could try sending DFI an email.


----------



## TestECull

I don't remember my Infinity ever having any problems with either my old 250W Bestec or my current 400W Antec. It ran just fine on both units.

As far as my rig goes...gone about a week without even a hiccup. Been playing alot of L4D on it too...maybe my instability self-corrected? I have an X1900XT 256mb in the mail too, should help my game performance a ton.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


The warranty is up, but I could try sending DFI an email.


Nate, it's worth a shot. You might actually be better off calling them as well. I believe their support number is: _1-510-226-7500_.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


I have an X1900XT 256mb in the mail too, should help my game performance a ton.


TestECull, the X1900XT should offer some improvement over your X800. I borrrowed one of Joe's X1950XT's for a while and it was great. Before that I was running a X800 Pro. In terms of 3DMark06, I saw a 4,000 point increase.

Good luck guys


----------



## TestECull

I'm more interested in game performance...I've never actually 3dmarked my rig, never intend to either. I'm just content with 30fps in my games. Anything over that is just icing, and anything signifigantly higher will just prompt higher settings.

Hmm...at 1280X1024, you think it will max Source out?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


Hmm...at 1280X1024X75hz, you think it will max Source out?


TestECull, well it depends if you have any of the eye candy options on (AF and AA) but I doubt you'll be playing below 30FPS. What games do you play that use the Source engine? I find Team Fortress 2 to be a bit more demanding then Counter Strike Source.

Good luck


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Nate, it's worth a shot. You might actually be better off calling them as well. I believe their support number is: _1-510-226-7500_.

TestECull, the X1900XT should offer some improvement over your X800. I borrrowed one of Joe's X1950XT's for a while and it was great. Before that I was running a X800 Pro. In terms of 3DMark06, I saw a 4,000 point increase.

Good luck guys









The last few times I contacted DFI they emailed me back the same day. They seem very friendly and willing to help.


----------



## boonie2

Nate is this the same board you were having problems afew months ago?


----------



## N2Gaming

Hellow everyone. I'm curiouse if the ultra d has the same bios as the sli dr. I have an extra board here and might be able to help in some way if the bioses are the same. I see a lot of bios chips on ebay for a lot cheaper then $20.00 but I don't know if they are reliable. Any way just thought I would toss it out there.


----------



## shortfuse

i pondered overnite how i got my old DFI to work. mind u this was 2yrs ago cant really remember the step. removing the battery to clear up the C-MOS, then jumper.or was it reset jumper first then remove battery. onething i do clearly remember was i had to do this like 5times. tho like i said. it would work but very very unstable. i really dont think its the bios but its worth the shot.


----------



## N2Gaming

So I'm thinking about getting this corsair hx1000watt power supply. I found what would appear to be deal at $170.00 free shipping. If I apply for buy.com credit card $190.00 less a $20.00 rebate. I hate rebates but well in any case $170.00 for this power supply seems like a good deal to me. Does any one have any two pennies they would like to share with me on this toppic. I would like to be able to power hihger end GPU's down the road and was just wondering if for the money this is what I should get or is there better??? here is the link to the power supply. 
http://www.buy.com/retail/Product.as...=0&dcaid=15894


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shortfuse*


i pondered overnite how i got my old DFI to work. mind u this was 2yrs ago cant really remember the step. removing the battery to clear up the C-MOS, then jumper.or was it reset jumper first then remove battery. onething i do clearly remember was i had to do this like 5times. tho like i said. it would work but very very unstable. i really dont think its the bios but its worth the shot.


Mine is similar as well. I had to remove Battery/Jumpers a number of times and completely unplug the PSU a few times.

I can say this, if the PSU is not compatible with the DFI Mobo you will having nothing but problems even if you manage to get it to post. It HAS to have the 8 pin power connector "along with the 24 pin power connector" to function properly.

Of course this all depends on if the Mobo is good to begin with. I am currently running my DFI Expert on a 420watt PSU until I can afford to replace it with a proper PSU. This 420watt only has a 24 amp 12V rail and you defiantly can tell if you try to OC the CPU or Videocard. PLUS I only have an extra 4 pin power connector where the 8 pin power connector should be.

Best bet I would say the Mobo is simply bad. As the others have said, you may want to call DFI. You never know, they may be able to repair it for you.


----------



## shortfuse

ok heres a previous thread i subscribed to. come to think of it now yeah it didnt work with my seasonic s12 but it worked with my x-connect psu. worth tryng to look at http://www.overclock.net/amd-motherb...ultra-d-2.html


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


TestECull, well it depends if you have any of the eye candy options on (AF and AA) but I doubt you'll be playing below 30FPS. What games do you play that use the Source engine? I find Team Fortress 2 to be a bit more demanding then Counter Strike Source.

Good luck











Garry's Mod, Left 4 Dead, HL2 and HL2 EP2...and I think Smod works.


----------



## GuardianOdin

everybody disappear?


----------



## N2Gaming

_good question im playing BF2 See ya.







_


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*









I'm more interested in game performance...I've never actually 3dmarked my rig, never intend to either. I'm just content with 30fps in my games. Anything over that is just icing, and anything signifigantly higher will just prompt higher settings.

*Hmm...at 1280X1024, you think it will max Source out?*


It'll max out MOST source games, probably with full AA too. However L4D seems to be a little more taxing, you'd probably have to settle with 2-4x AA. I don't know for sure about TF2...never played it. Your res is ever so SLIGHTLY higher than my res of 1440x900....and my girl's 8800GTS 320MB can max out all source games minus L4D (that she's played). L4D she has to do only 8x AA, and she still gets 60+ FPS throughout most of the game.

Also, the X1950XT is only SLIGHTLY behind the G80 GTS's. I'm talking 1-10 FPS tops in most games. Hence why I'm using that as a reference.

Another point of reference is that her GPU is dying. So that could also be the cause of L4D not functioning properly for her. But this is just based off my experiences.


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


It'll max out MOST source games, probably with full AA too. However L4D seems to be a little more taxing, you'd probably have to settle with 2-4x AA. I don't know for sure about TF2...never played it. Your res is ever so SLIGHTLY higher than my res of 1440x900....and my girl's 8800GTS 320MB can max out all source games minus L4D (that she's played). L4D she has to do only 8x AA, and she still gets 60+ FPS throughout most of the game.

Also, the X1950XT is only SLIGHTLY behind the G80 GTS's. I'm talking 1-10 FPS tops in most games. Hence why I'm using that as a reference.

Another point of reference is that her GPU is dying. So that could also be the cause of L4D not functioning properly for her. But this is just based off my experiences.



I already have 2xAA turned on with the X800, and I run all games on it at 1024X768. 25-80fps in L4D, depending on map, where I'm aimed and if I'm in a horde or not...lol. Settling for 2-4xAA is no prob at all, I'm used to none at all. Source is the only game engine I can use AA in right now









Edit: Mine is coming with an Accelero S1 pre-installed. I will most certainly be overclocking it, providing I can get ATI-tool to work, or something equivalent. Just need to get some fans on that S1 first...


----------



## GuardianOdin

hey guys, I'm trying to OC a ATI 3650 we have at work and every time I move the sliders in either ATITool/Riva/ATI Tool Tray they reset back to stock. Any idea why this is happening?


----------



## HothBase

Is ATI Tray Tool set to kill ATI HotKey Poller?
Or have you tried to OC in CCC's Overdrive?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


Is ATI Tray Tool set to kill ATI HotKey Poller?
Or have you tried to OC in CCC's Overdrive?


HotKey Poller? Not sure what that is. Never tried to OC an ATI card

CCC's won't even allow the slider's to move even though it is unlocked.


----------



## HothBase

I don't know why CCC won't work but If you're using a third party overclocking utility like ATI Tool or ATI Tray Tools, you will need to disable the Hotkey Poller.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


I don't know why CCC won't work but If you're using a third party overclocking utility like ATI Tool or ATI Tray Tools, you will need to disable the Hotkey Poller.



doing it now, be back in a sec


----------



## Lyoko

May I join?

http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...n-165-end.html

Still running strong!


----------



## TestECull

Put that thing in your sig, give it a witty name and yer in


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


I don't know why CCC won't work but If you're using a third party overclocking utility like ATI Tool or ATI Tray Tools, you will need to disable the Hotkey Poller.



nope, not working. I try to save and it says I have no profile.


----------



## Lyoko

Done


----------



## GuardianOdin

I think I will be going back to the 8600GT. Nvidia just seems much more OC friendly

EDIT: Welcome to the club LyokoHaCk!


----------



## Lyoko

Do you think I will see alot of improvement if I SLI my 9600GT's?

EDIT: Thank you GuardianOdin!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LyokoHaCk*


Do you think I will see alot of improvement if I SLI my 9600GT's?



I would assume so. I do not believe it will be a lot. Some of the guys here would be better suited to answer that question. I think it has a lot to do with your monitor.


----------



## Blitz6804

LyokoHaCk: 3.1 GHz Opty 165? Welcome aboard! You need not have your 939 rig listed as your sig rig, but if it is your only rig, by all means go for it. (You can have more than one rig attached to your profile; I personally have four.) I will be adding you to the offsite roster soon. Txtmstrjoe will add you to the onsite later today.

Your monitor is 1440x900. I am assuming with one 9600 GT you can likely already run most games at your native with all eye candy except for anti-aliasing. Adding the other 9600 GT will give you that AA. What I do not know however, is if your PSU will handle it. While only looking at the 450 W might incline me to say no, I do not know about your amperage. There are quite a few potential dangers to overloading a power supply, do your research on the numbers before trying it.


----------



## Lyoko

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
LyokoHaCk: 3.1 GHz Opty 165? Welcome aboard! You need not have your 939 rig listed as your sig rig, but if it is your only rig, by all means go for it. (You can have more than one rig attached to your profile; I personally have four.) I will be adding you to the offsite roster soon. Txtmstrjoe will add you to the onsite later today.

Your monitor is 1440x900. I am assuming with one 9600 GT you can likely already run most games at your native with all eye candy except for anti-aliasing. Adding the other 9600 GT will give you that AA. What I do not know however, is if your PSU will handle it. While only looking at the 450 W might incline me to say no, I do not know about your amperage. There are quite a few potential dangers to overloading a power supply, do your research on the numbers before trying it.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817104954


----------



## Blitz6804

I do not know the *wattage needs for a 9600 GT. You have two rails running UP TO 14 A and UP TO 13 A. (Total amperage is NOT 27 A.) 17.25 A total if I did the math and understood Thlnk3r right.


----------



## Lyoko

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I do not know the *wattage needs for a 9600 GT. You have two rails running UP TO 14 A and UP TO 13 A. (Total amperage is NOT 27 A.) 17.25 A total if I did the math and understood Thlnk3r right.


Since the PCI-E slot supplies a max of 75w and the 6-pin connector provides 75w, let's assume each card eats up 150w. Two is 300w.

Would the 150 left over be enough for the cpu, burner, motherboard, pci-e sound and pci-e network card?









I think I need a PSU with higher wattage









SLI has a minimum requirement of 500w on the system anyway iirc.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey Blitz good to see your still around


----------



## Blitz6804

IF I did the math right, as I said, you have 17.25 A or 207 W on your 12 V rail.

If you had 3850s, you can run two of them. 9600 GTs? I have no idea.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Please welcome our two newest members, shortfuse and LyokoHaCk!







Both of you have now been added to our Club roster.


----------



## N2Gaming

Happy to see more 939 fans!







Welcome to the club shortfuse and LyokoHaCk.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


Nate is this the same board you were having problems afew months ago?


yes it is.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LyokoHaCk*


Do you think I will see alot of improvement if I SLI my 9600GT's?


I'm personally going to say you will see a little bit of improvement, but not work spending the extra money.
Any games in particular you want/need more power for?


----------



## Lyoko

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Please welcome our two newest members, shortfuse and LyokoHaCk!







Both of you have now been added to our Club roster.









Thanks









Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
I'm personally going to say you will see a little bit of improvement, but not work spending the extra money.
Any games in particular you want/need more power for?

I'm not buying it. It's an XFX return since my old card died.


----------



## N2Gaming

I thought bigger faster cards with larger memory sizes are better for bigger resolutions and video quality. I can play almost any game with my 8600 GTS cards but when I try to increase resolutions and crank up the video qualities then I really see why I need bigger stronger faster "Bionic" GPU's w/more memory. Additionally I was/am under the impression that two is better than one if you want to max your video settings.


----------



## nategr8ns

well I think of it this way:
With a single graphics card, lets say 9600gt, it gives out 100% of the power of a single 9600gt. When you SLI them, you get about 120-180% of the power of a single 9600gt (I'm not sure how well the 9x00 series scales, but older cards only gave you an extra ~20% or so IIRC).
What I meant before is that the gain is not worth the cost, especially if you can already near-max most games.
Lyoko, I don't understand your situation exactly: Do you currently have a 9600gt or is that the one that died? What other offers is XFX giving?


----------



## Lyoko

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
well I think of it this way:
With a single graphics card, lets say 9600gt, it gives out 100% of the power of a single 9600gt. When you SLI them, you get about 120-180% of the power of a single 9600gt (I'm not sure how well the 9x00 series scales, but older cards only gave you an extra ~20% or so IIRC).
What I meant before is that the gain is not worth the cost, especially if you can already near-max most games.
Lyoko, I don't understand your situation exactly: Do you currently have a 9600gt or is that the one that died? What other offers is XFX giving?

I currently have a new, working 9600GT and another is on the way. Sorry I didn't mention it earlier.


----------



## boonie2

Welcome new members ,














, Personally id invest in a larger PSU if you intend on going SLI ... and you might also want to consider that some people claim you will have a bottleneck with that 165 ... myself im running 2 8800s and cant notice any bottlenecks in real time , that doesnt mean it doesnt exist tho ... good luck


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LyokoHaCk*


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817104954


LyokoHaCk, welcome to the club. Good to see another S939 overclocker









The power supply you linked us too will probably power two 9600GT's but it's not guaranteed how long it will run the setup before locks up/BSOD's, this is of course while gaming. I don't think idling would be a problem. The total amperage of that particular power supply is 27amps (324 / 12). Just take the total wattage of the 12volt rails and divide it by 12.

For total system draw I would recommend at least 40 amps if you decide to run two video cards. Do you have a budget for a new power supply?

Guardian, in regards to your 3650 OC I read a few other threads with users experiencing this same issue. Apparently ATI "locked" the lower end cards which prevents any type of overclocking. Not sure how solid this rumor is though. Others have also not been able to OC with CCC or ATITool Beta 0.27 beta 4.

Good luck guys


----------



## TestECull

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
LyokoHaCk: 3.1 GHz Opty 165? Welcome aboard! You need not have your 939 rig listed as your sig rig, but if it is your only rig, by all means go for it. (You can have more than one rig attached to your profile; I personally have four.) I will be adding you to the offsite roster soon. Txtmstrjoe will add you to the onsite later today.

Your monitor is 1440x900. I am assuming with one 9600 GT you can likely already run most games at your native with all eye candy except for anti-aliasing. Adding the other 9600 GT will give you that AA. What I do not know however, is if your PSU will handle it. While only looking at the 450 W might incline me to say no, I do not know about your amperage. There are quite a few potential dangers to overloading a power supply, do your research on the numbers before trying it.









He had no rig listed at all, dude.

O, and on the topic of the PSU handling SLI...I think it will. All the other GPU is really doing is running some AA. It's nowhere near at max load, never will be. As long as OP runs native res, he should be fine, but if he notices the PSU getting hot or instabilities ingame then he might wanna pull the plug on that second card.


----------



## boonie2

Have to agree with Think3r on the PSU 40 amps minimum


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


Have to agree with Think3r on the PSU 40 amps minimum



If he manages to load up the second card, yes he will be seeing problems...thing is, he won't be loading it up all that much. His first already nearly maxes everyhing at his screen's native, the second card would be sitting there twiddling his thumbs.







PSU's can take a ton more than most people give them credit for, and in his situation he'll be fine. You all are forgetting that his first card is going to be doing 98% of the work, and the second sitting there twiddling it's virtual thumbs more than rendering any graphics, and that when they're that idle, they're not using all that much power.

Would you say a 250W PSU could run an HD2900XT at max load, with a single-core AMD and all the goodies? Probably not...but I did, and the PSU handled it quite well. It got hot as hell, but it never crashed.


----------



## boonie2

Better to be safe then sorry tho i would think


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


Better to be safe then sorry tho i would think


















He does need one, but he can SLI his cards now and as long as he keeps the ingame settings where they are, sans AA, he will be fine till it arrives.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Thanks for the help guys, I decided to put the 8600GT back in the work PC. That 3650 is a web surf'in vid card if I ever saw one.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Thanks for the help guys, I decided to put the 8600GT back in the work PC. That 3650 is a web surf'in vid card if I ever saw one.


Sounds about like my 3450







. I wanted to get my hands on a 3650, but yeah, only had the funds for the 3450 and an 8500GT used at the time.

On a happier note for you Guardian....if you didn't know already...

The HD3650 would make a GREAT HTPC card







. I know, that's what I've got my 3450 doin. I swear, TV has NEVER looked this good.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Sounds about like my 3450







. I wanted to get my hands on a 3650, but yeah, only had the funds for the 3450 and an 8500GT used at the time.

On a happier note for you Guardian....if you didn't know already...

The HD3650 would make a GREAT HTPC card







. I know, that's what I've got my 3450 doin. I swear, TV has NEVER looked this good.


yeah, but unfortunately I really only have time to sleep. I have my regular job and then my Illustration work. LOL I think the last show I watched was the first season of Heroes....







Now it's random commercials as I walk threw the living room into the kitchen. Did you know Swifter is the quicker picker upper?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
yeah, but unfortunately I really only have time to sleep. I have my regular job and then my Illustration work. LOL I think the last show I watched was the first season of Heroes....







Now it's random commercials as I walk threw the living room into the kitchen. Did you know Swifter is the quicker picker upper?

I thought Bounty was the quicker picker upper? News to me







.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I thought Bounty was the quicker picker upper? News to me







.

haha... see what happens when you can't afford to pay attention


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
haha... see what happens when you can't afford to pay attention









Are you pokin fun at me?


----------



## JEmmaB

As requested a while back; some screens of my Team Xtreem Hermes 512MB x 4.









Managed some decent timings.









BTW; tests were done at my "test" rig using Windows 7.


----------



## pioneerisloud

That is KILLER! DDR500 with 4 sticks! Wow!


----------



## JEmmaB

Will test some more if I can manage to go higher.


----------



## JEmmaB

super_pi 32m passed at DDR500.


----------



## JEmmaB

At DDR510.


----------



## nategr8ns

HOLY CRAP!!!
nice work! +










so how does one go about getting a copy of Win7?
















edit: I'm kind of behind the times. It's still unreleased, right?


----------



## N2Gaming

it's prolly beta and he might have gained some privileges somehow









Has any one seen this video card. My Drools off to you if you get one.

Published on Tuesday, November 11 2008 2:22 pm by Visionary
*NVIDIA & Partners Released US$3500 Quadro FX 5800*

Filed under: Graphics Card, News, Nvidia

NVIDIA today unveiled the most powerful professional graphics card in graphics history - the QuadroÂ® FX 5800. Offering up to 240 CUDA™ programmable parallel cores and the industries first 4GB of graphics memory, the Quadro FX 5800 graphics card is ideally suited for oil and gas exploration, medical imaging, styling and design, and scientific visualisation. NVIDIA Quadro solutions are widely available through leading PC manufacturers and workstation system integrators and NVIDIA channel partners PNY Technologies (US and EMEA), Leadtek (APAC) and Elsa (Japan). The Quadro FX 5800 graphics board has an MSRP of $3499 USD.

Oh is that all it cost I'll go out and get one right now. syke


----------



## Blitz6804

Okay... few things:

LyokoHaCk: Do NOT mess around with power supplies. I am with Joe on this one; if you think the power supply is not strong enough, do not risk it. Nothing sucks more than an exploding PSU. Does anyone have the official power needs of a 9600 GT? I am sure it is higher than an HD 3850.

Shortfuse and LyokoHaCk: I was delayed in adding you to the roster. My girlfriend was visiting me for the first time in four months this weekend, so that is where I have been.

TestECull: It depends on the game. Some games will load one card completely before touching the other. Some games will scale both cards equally. (Call of Duty 4 comes to mind on that one.) Sometimes, I will read 60% on each card rather than 98% on one and 22% on the other. (The rest of the time, I am near 100% on both.)

GuardianOdin: Do not feel bad. ATI seems to be REALLY against overclocking. As Pioneerisloud has said, they try to block overclocking attempts whenever possible. I know any attempt to adjust my clocks using ATI Tool 0.27b4 results in an instant PC crash. CCC can adjust the clocks, but gaming crashes the drivers immediately.

JEmmaB: I LOVE that bandwidth. I never would have thought it possible to get 4x512 MB to clock just as well as 2x1024 MB. You learn something new daily I suppose. How much voltage are you running through them? At DDR 500, can you make the timings any tighter? Does it make a difference if you do? (+REP)

Txtmstrjoe: I am joining the dark side. As of today, I will now be showing 40 posts per page rather than 10. Furthermore, I have returned from my hiatus. However, I really think I should have done homework first, and then returned. Oops.


----------



## nategr8ns

yay 40 ppp


----------



## Hueristic

I don't get it? I've had Tons of power supplies explode and never had a component damaged. Once I had a AT PS in my server catch the MB on fire and I resoldered the runs and used the board for 2 more years. I fix PS's all the time and never have problems.


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


it's prolly beta and he might have gained some privileges somehow









Has any one seen this video card. My Drools off to you if you get one.

Published on Tuesday, November 11 2008 2:22 pm by Visionary
*NVIDIA & Partners Released US$3500 Quadro FX 5800*

Filed under: Graphics Card, News, Nvidia
NVIDIA today unveiled the most powerful professional graphics card in graphics history â€" the QuadroÂ® FX 5800. Offering up to 240 CUDAâ„¢ programmable parallel cores and the industries first 4GB of graphics memory, the Quadro FX 5800 graphics card is ideally suited for oil and gas exploration, medical imaging, styling and design, and scientific visualisation. NVIDIA Quadro solutions are widely available through leading PC manufacturers and workstation system integrators and NVIDIA channel partners PNY Technologies (US and EMEA), Leadtek (APAC) and Elsa (Japan). The Quadro FX 5800 graphics board has an MSRP of $3499 USD.

Oh is that all it cost I'll go out and get one right now. syke










And all of 35FPS in HL2 at 1024X768 maxxed...rofl


----------



## Blitz6804

But it isn't meant for that... how does it do in AutoCAD?


----------



## N2Gaming

that's it 30 fps wow I guess you saw it.


----------



## Lyoko

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
LyokoHaCk, welcome to the club. Good to see another S939 overclocker









The power supply you linked us too will probably power two 9600GT's but it's not guaranteed how long it will run the setup before locks up/BSOD's, this is of course while gaming. I don't think idling would be a problem. The total amperage of that particular power supply is 27amps (324 / 12). Just take the total wattage of the 12volt rails and divide it by 12.

For total system draw I would recommend at least 40 amps if you decide to run two video cards. Do you have a budget for a new power supply

Good luck guys









No, I don't :/

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Okay... few things:

LyokoHaCk: Do NOT mess around with power supplies. I am with Joe on this one; if you think the power supply is not strong enough, do not risk it. Nothing sucks more than an exploding PSU. Does anyone have the official power needs of a 9600 GT? I am sure it is higher than an HD 3850.

I'm just going to sell the second one when it arrives I guess.


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, looking online gives me mixed results. I am seeing people recommending 22 A on the 12 V rail. However, I am seeing others saying it uses only 95 W, meaning you would need no more than 8 A. Thlnk3r is the resident power supply expert here though.


----------



## JEmmaB

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
HOLY CRAP!!!
nice work! +









so how does one go about getting a copy of Win7?
















edit: I'm kind of behind the times. It's still unreleased, right?

Thanks.









It's a pre-beta; and somehow I got a working copy of.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 

JEmmaB: I LOVE that bandwidth. I never would have thought it possible to get 4x512 MB to clock just as well as 2x1024 MB. You learn something new daily I suppose. How much voltage are you running through them? At DDR 500, can you make the timings any tighter? Does it make a difference if you do? (+REP)

I almost gave up on it tho'; but it seems a little patience goes a long way.









I could try a bit much later; but it seems 3-4-4-8 are the most stable settings.

edit: voltage at 2.8v


----------



## TestECull

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
But it isn't meant for that... how does it do in AutoCAD?


Probably the same way a GTX280 pwns HL2


----------



## Blitz6804

At 2.8 volts, I would say you are likely near your limit sans active cooling. More voltage may permit you to get a bit more bandwidth though...


----------



## JEmmaB

I can get them higher to 2.9v but I should get proper cooling. I wouldn't risk damaging 1 stick like I did with my Mushkins(3.1v).


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah. RAM sinks and/or a fan would be an excellent idea at this point. Might I ask why you only have one system in your profile?


----------



## JEmmaB

Yup the current heatspreaders simply won't suffice; I thinks a dedicated fan will do.









Just too lazy to add more I suppose.









Will add others shortly.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Well, looking online gives me mixed results. I am seeing people recommending 22 A on the 12 V rail. However, I am seeing others saying it uses only 95 W, meaning you would need no more than 8 A.


Blitz, thanks for pointing this out.

LyokoHaCk, go ahead and try to run SLI on that power supply. Like I said in my previous post you would probably be able to ...but for how long? 1 week, 1 month, 6 months? You also have to think about the rest of your components. How many drives are you running? How many fans are going? Any cold cathode lights? ect ect All of those items draw power. That's why for an SLI setup I recommended a PSU with at least 40amps.

JEmmaB, nice bandwidth on the 4 x 512MB









Good luck guys


----------



## Blitz6804

The same places that recommend 22 A for a single 9600 GT call for 36 A for a pair.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


The same places that recommend 22 A for a single 9600 GT call for 36 A for a pair.


Blitz, what website are you referring to? The manual that came with my 3850 said at least 32 amps(example). Remember that is required for total system power. The video card doesn't draw that amperage alone.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

My info on the 9600 GT came from various forums online.

As you all know, I am ATI; not nVidia.

My 3850s are running quite happily on 19 A peak on their rail. My other 12 V rails provide power to other places. (Both PCI-Es have one dedicated rail.) ATI calls for 1 75-watt PCI-E connector each, that is, 6.25 A. Of course, this ignores the 75 W being provided by the motherboard.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


My 3850s are running quite happily on 19 A peak on their rail. My other 12 V rails provide power to other places. (Both PCI-Es have one dedicated rail.) ATI calls for 1 75-watt PCI-E connector each, that is, 6.25 A. Of course, this ignores the 75 W being provided by the motherboard.


Just FYI, that is only for 3 x 12volt configurations so please take note









A 4 x 12volt power supply has it's PCI-E (6-pin or 8-pin) power connectors split up across two +12V rails.

Good luck


----------



## JEmmaB

Managed to get my Team Xtreem Hermes 512MB x 4 even higher; at 3-4-4-7 2T.









All thanks to TREF=3072 setting on my DFI LP UT NF4 SLI-DR Venus.

Settings:

TCL=3
TRCD=4
TRAS=7
TRP=4
TREF=3072

All other values at default.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Update guys, I may have a PC Power&Cooling on the way. 600Watts


----------



## JEmmaB

SuperPi 32M completed at DDR550.



























Validation


----------



## thlnk3r

JEmmaB, 77Mhz OC! Nicely done


----------



## Blitz6804

I love the OC JEmmaB. However, that is not DDR 550. It is DDR 55*4*! Never sell yourself short! (^_^)

In other news, this means you are now out bandwidthing a Core 2 Duo at DDR2 1066 or an AM2 K8 at DDR2 667.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Heads up, lady and gentlemen of Club S939! Your Club co-founders are currently discussing several ideas for our next Club-exclusive contest. We even have a couple of really great, practical ideas, as well as some truly exciting prizes for the contest winner. Though nothing is yet set in stone, suffice it to say that we're hopeful to get some really ripping participation from our membership.









Club officers, obviously we'll need your input as well. If you've got ideas and thoughts, thlnk3r and I would love to hear them.







To brutalize the Beatles' wonderfully weird song, "You know our names... you've got the numbers..."

At any rate, when we're all ready for a definitive announcement, you'll all hear it here first. And I personally also really hope we get a huge swell of participation in this next contest.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Heads up, lady and gentlemen of Club S939! Your Club co-founders are currently discussing several ideas for our next Club-exclusive contest. We even have a couple of really great, practical ideas, as well as some truly exciting prizes for the contest winner. Though nothing is yet set in stone, suffice it to say that we're hopeful to get some really ripping participation from our membership.









Club officers, obviously we'll need your input as well. If you've got ideas and thoughts, thlnk3r and I would love to hear them.







To brutalize the Beatles' wonderfully weird song, "You know our names... you've got the numbers..."

At any rate, when we're all ready for a definitive announcement, you'll all hear it here first. And I personally also really hope we get a huge swell of participation in this next contest.










Good to hear! Hopefully there'll be a slightly better turnout this time







.


----------



## TestECull

Joe, here's one for ya:

Highest CPU-Z validation for single core S939 CPU, and a side-contest for dual core's!

Given a contest to win, I might be coerced into turning the fires back up under mine, and trying for 2.8...let's leave ram OC out of it tho, as most of us with single cores, myself included, have crap ram for OC'ing. Stable doesn't count either, just raw MHZ that can be proved via CPU-z dump.









Too bad noone has a couple of 3800+'s to give out as prizes.

My rig has quit any sort of instability. Rock solid for about two weeks now. Whatever it was has self-healed or something, as I haven't had so much as an artifact. I would most certainly give it a shot if this contest were launched!

I know it wouldn't be terribly fair to run a club-wide highest OC. People like me with Venice cores will max out at 2.7-2.8, MAYBE the odd 2.9(Don't discount mine from this, I think it would be stable enough to get a dump at that speed), but the Opty 165's and higher-end A64 X2's would completely slaughter the singles with 3.2, 3.3, 3.4ghz relatively stable, the San Diego and Toledo cores.


----------



## boonie2

might be a nice idea , my 4000 San Deigo is drooling


----------



## JEmmaB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


JEmmaB, 77Mhz OC! Nicely done










Thanks! I never thought my mems would OC that high at 512MB x 4.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I love the OC JEmmaB. However, that is not DDR 550. It is DDR 55*4*! Never sell yourself short! (^_^)

In other news, this means you are now out bandwidthing a Core 2 Duo at DDR2 1066 or an AM2 K8 at DDR2 667.










Never been good at math! LOL!!!

Wow nice to hear that DDR1 can out bandwidth DDR2.


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JEmmaB*


Wow nice to hear that DDR1 can out bandwidth DDR2.











And people said DDR1 was outdated, slow, ancient crap...


----------



## N2Gaming

how about a screen shot of the hottest cpu temp, for all the peeps who have a cpu they want to toss out or use as a paper weight?


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


how about a screen shot of the hottest cpu temp, for all the peeps who have a cpu they want to toss out or use as a paper weight?














































All one would have to do is OC a prescott to 4.4 on stock, take screenshot, take screenshot of CPU-z, shoop temp and screenshot together and instawin...


----------



## Blitz6804

I might need to break my 3700+ San Diego out of retirement TestECull. I do not think I will do well with my gimped nForce3 however. As I recall, the two did not clock well in the past.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
All one would have to do is OC a prescott to 4.4 on stock, take screenshot, take screenshot of CPU-z, shoop temp and screenshot together and instawin...
















why is there always someone to put a damper on an idea?


----------



## TestECull

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 














why is there always someone to put a damper on an idea?

















Would you rather we slaughter a bunch of S939 chips for a highest temp contest? :\\

Besides turnout would blow. I, for one, don't want to kill my chip, as if I kill it I'm left with no PC to game on. :\\


----------



## Blitz6804

Besides; we all know Pioneerisloud would win that contest. That dude's crazy when it comes to ignoring thermal specs!


----------



## boonie2

Whatever







first you suggest the idea then you come up with a way to screw it up


----------



## N2Gaming

Sorry for that can of worms. it was a little joke because I had no real good idea but it looks as if maybe some peeps had considered it. I'd buy a chep chip on ebay to try it. Heck I won a 3500+ Venice for $10.00 plus shipping a few months back on ebay but the seller would not respond to my questions so I did not finalize the sale. how about the slowest stable cpu freq on a 939. I'm just a clown never mind me.


----------



## Blitz6804

My record was 1005 MHz, the lowest I could do with an nForce3 stock. Any lower would require the use of the CrystalCPUID that I use now.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I might need to break my 3700+ San Diego out of retirement TestECull. I do not think I will do well with my gimped nForce3 however. As I recall, the two did not clock well in the past.

Blitz, you're on! I have a 3700+, lets battle









If the board doesn't allow for higher voltage adjustments (chipset) then just start volt modding.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
That dude's crazy when it comes to ignoring thermal specs!

The thermal specs are just listed for insurance purposes. Don't let 70C prevent you from overclocking more. I took my 3600+ S939 to 1.75volts...it was an exciting night









Good luck


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz, you're on! I have a 3700+, lets battle









If the board doesn't allow for higher voltage adjustments (chipset) then just start volt modding.

The thermal specs are just listed for insurance purposes. Don't let 70C prevent you from overclocking more. I took my 3600+ S939 to 1.75volts...it was an exciting night









Good luck

I'd have to agree...the thermal specs seem to be there as just insurance. Froggy's Opty has hit 85*C under load.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I'd have to agree...the thermal specs seem to be there as just insurance. Froggy's Opty has hit 85*C under load.

Pio, is her Opteron still chugging along fine? Obviously it didn't "fry"









Good luck


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Pio, is her Opteron still chugging along fine? Obviously it didn't "fry"









Good luck

That it is. Still loading at 85*C too, just awaiting an S Clip from our fearless leader...however I may load my Zalman 9500 to it until the meantime.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
That it is. Still loading at 85*C too, just awaiting an S Clip from our fearless leader...however I may load my Zalman 9500 to it until the meantime.

Pio, is this a 165 or 170? What is the Vcore? Does it crash in any stress testing applicatiosn? My 170 would lock up around 68C during OCCT and Orthos.

Good luck


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Pio, is this a 165 or 170? What is the Vcore? Does it crash in any stress testing applicatiosn? My 170 would lock up around 68C during OCCT and Orthos.

Good luck

It is a Opteron 170 @ 2.75GHz with 1.41v. Loads at 85*C for one core, 47*C for the other core (CPU @ 40*C). And it passes Orthos for 12 hours (blended test).

And I know its nothing defective on the CPU itself, there was 1*C delta with that chip in my rig and my Zalman. It COULD be a sensor on the motherboard perhaps. Only time will tell.....till once I get off my lazy butt and decide to install her clip on equipment again....she's stuck with this Big Typhoon.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
It is a Opteron 170 @ 2.75GHz with 1.41v. Loads at 85*C for one core, 47*C for the other core (CPU @ 40*C). And it passes Orthos for 12 hours (blended test).

Pio, interesting. When I bumped my 170 to 1.55volts the full load temperatures sky rocketed so I can imagine those temps being real. I too am sort of in the same boat. I really need to get my hands on a new cooler. This XP-90C won't cut it if I decide to overclock some more.

Good luck


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Pio, interesting. When I bumped my 170 to 1.55volts the full load temperatures sky rocketed so I can imagine those temps being real. I too am sort of in the same boat. I really need to get my hands on a new cooler. This XP-90C won't cut it if I decide to overclock some more.

Good luck









Well I can personally put my vote down for the Xigmatek S1283. Match it with a decent fan (I chose the Thunderblade that I was using as a spot cooler)....and it'll keep your chip cool. I've loaded my chip up to 1.65v, and it loaded at 72*C....which is where I USED to load at with my Zalman and stock volts.

EDIT:
And back to Froggy's issue:
I'm still 99% sure the problem is in the fact that I can't for the life of me mount a bolt-down cooler properly. I really do believe once I get a clip on cooler, things will run much better on her rig. I just hope that cooling was the issue, and that the CPU is thermal throttling itself..... :/


----------



## thlnk3r

Pio, is her Typhoon lapped? Not to sound ignorant or anything but what will the clip provide...obviously better cooling but how?

I've been checking out the Xigmatek 1283 for a while but I'm still uncertain. I plan on going for 3.2Ghz stable once I can get my hands on a better cooler. There might be a Vendetta 2 in the near future for thlnk3r as well









Good luck


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Pio, is her Typhoon lapped? Not to sound ignorant or anything but what will the clip provide...obviously better cooling but how?

I've been checking out the Xigmatek 1283 for a while but I'm still uncertain. I plan on going for 3.2Ghz stable once I can get my hands on a better cooler. There might be a Vendetta 2 in the near future for thlnk3r as well









Good luck

The Big Typhoon is not lapped, and to be honest...the surface is absolutely HORRIBLE.

The clip will provide me the ability to mount a different cooler to it...OTHER than the Big Typhoon, which will soon belong to Joe. Her rig will either have my old Zalman 9500, or a Thermalright Ultima 90 (I think that's it...has a 120mm fan on it). And not only that...it will also help to ensure that said cooler is actually mounted properly, because seriously....who can mess up a clip?

EDIT:
The S Clip in question that I am actually missing, is the clip on module that comes with a Thermalright Ultima 90, to mount it to a clip on 939 or AM2 setup.


----------



## Blitz6804

In my experience, the Thermalright S-clips are terribad. My SI-128 came with an S-clip. I had it for exactly 2 days. Now I bolt down.


----------



## TestECull

Clips generally don't work for anything heavier than stock..Especially with 939, as they only grab one plastic tab on either side. I prefer bolt-thru, and I'm glad my GeminII is bolt-thru ONLY.


----------



## Blitz6804

The S-Clip for the SI-128 was 3 tabs if I remember right.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I don't know...but the clip on module that comes with the Xigmatek works great. I can vouche for that one. The Zalman one works okay....the cooler itself was just too weak.


----------



## TestECull

The Xigmatek isn't all that heavy, tho. My GeminII weighs just shy of a kilo(IT's 840 on it's own, and then there's my fans and dust







), and I'd be very very afraid of it ripping itself free if it were clipped on...for lightweight coolers, tho, clips are fine.


----------



## Lyoko

Hmm.. I've always overclocked my Opty 165 and underclocked my RAM (Mushkin EM3200 2x1GB). I'm going to set my opty to 222x9 and try to hit DDR 444 later today (If that's possible







). Maybe I'll go further! The point is to maintain the 2:1 ratio.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
The thermal specs are just listed for insurance purposes. Don't let 70C prevent you from overclocking more. I took my 3600+ S939 to 1.75volts...it was an exciting night









Good luck


----------



## nategr8ns

well all you guys memory overclocking are making me want to overclock my memory







.
I bet my GSkill ddr500s can get to 550


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
The Big Typhoon is not lapped, and to be honest...the surface is absolutely HORRIBLE.

Pio, that may also explain why you full load temps are so bad. I can't use a cooler without lapping it. Call me crazy I guess









Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
I bet my GSkill ddr500s can get to 550

Nate, I guess there is only one way to find out...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Well, there have obviously been a number of reactions to the blurb I sent yesterday about our Club's imminent next contest. I suppose this means people are excited.







But as of this moment, the picture is still quite incomplete; all we have is the intention to have our next Club-exclusive contest. We have not yet defined precisely what we want to do, though we do have a couple of really interesting and exciting ideas, plus some of you have already contributed your own private speculations as to what this contest will be all about.

Suffice it to say that we'll consider all possible factors so that we can get as wide a participation as possible. Since I'm also personally contributing one of the prizes, I'd like to say that I want the contest to directly benefit a Club member; that is, I hope the prize goes to someone who can really and truly use the prize.

(Who knew a case badge was so important?







Just kidding. That is NOT the top prize.







)


----------



## N2Gaming

interesting Joe, maybe we could have a texting contest in reagards to why the individual deserves to be the winner. The candidates could post the reasons why they feel they need/deserve to be the winner and we all in return would vote for a rightfull winner. I know voting can be political but it's just another wacky idea I came up with.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Woot! getting THIS in 2 days ..............Finally!!!









$99 after rebate which I all ready have in an envelope


----------



## Blitz6804

Woot! 750 W PSU for the win!

I hope your stability troubles level out GuardianOdin.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Woot! 750 W PSU for the win!

I hope your stability troubles level out GuardianOdin.

Thanks Blitz, that would be great. I may also be getting a new Heatsink for the Opty. I like my BT, but it is simply to heavy.I find I have to reseat every 2 months.


----------



## Blitz6804

Check this out. That guide has a strapping technique that would prevent the need to repeatedly remount.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Woot! getting THIS in 2 days ..............Finally!!!









$99 after rebate which I all ready have in an envelope

GuardianOdin, which X-Finity 600W model are you running? There is the energy efficient model and the standard. The energy efficient model is 85% efficiency which is slightly higher then the PCPower model you picked out. Are you running both the 8800GT and 8600GT in the same machine? I think it's more of the DFI motherboard being picky then power supply...though I have not had great luck with Ultra products so I wouldn't doubt that being the problem as well. Out of the 300 odd so Ultra 900VA UPS's I ordered for a site, most of them came back bad. They just wouldn't turn on. Not sure if it was bad batch or not.

Good luck


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Check this out. That guide has a strapping technique that would prevent the need to repeatedly remount.

Thanks Blitz, I was actually trying to find that. Evey thing in the guide I have done already except the Velcro. +Rep on the way for you mister









Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
GuardianOdin, which X-Finity 600W model are you running? There is the energy efficient model and the standard. The energy efficient model is 85% efficiency which is slightly higher then the PCPower model you picked out. Are you running both the 8800GT and 8600GT in the same machine? I think it's more of the DFI motherboard being picky then power supply...though I have not had great luck with Ultra products so I wouldn't doubt that being the problem as well. Out of the 300 odd so Ultra 900VA UPS's I ordered for a site, most of them came back bad. They just wouldn't turn on. Not sure if it was bad batch or not.

Good luck









I had the "standard" model I believe. That is the PSU that died and I had to replace with a much weaker PSU until I bought a new one. As far as PSU's go, I'll never buy another Ultra. Now their RAM I use to own was top notch and took a beating. Plus this PC P&C is a single 12 rail. I know there is an on going argument about single Vs. Dual/Quad PSU's. I prefer single rail.

This PC P&C has an 83% efficiency. When I switch from Enermax 460Watt to the Ultra 600 I was able to OC to 3.1Ghz "this also includes switching over to the Expert as well" BUT I started getting these random shut downs and at times the rig would not even power up. My best guess is that the Ultra PSU was simply bad.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
When I switch from Enermax 460Watt to the Ultra 600 I was able to OC to 3.1Ghz "this also includes switching over to the Expert as well" BUT I started getting these random shut downs and at times the rig would not even power up. My best guess is that the Ultra PSU was simply bad.

GuardianOdin, I wouldn't doubt the Ultra being the main culprit. For some odd reason though my DFI board just was not happy with my Seasonic power supply. The LED's would power up but the board would just not initialize. I think I already asked you this but are you on a UPS device?

Good luck


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
GuardianOdin, I wouldn't doubt the Ultra being the main culprit. For some odd reason though my DFI board just was not happy with my Seasonic power supply. The LED's would power up but the board would just not initialize. I think I already asked you this but are you on a UPS device?

Good luck

yes actually. I have been using a UPS device since I purchased the Ultra. I had the same thing happen with the LED's and Mobo not initializing. I would have to say that would happen mostly when I changed the BIOS when OC'ing, but it would happen on a stable OC and even at stock and well over 15 times. This experience defiantly has changed my mind about PSU's and Mobo compatibility


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Club Officers, please check your emails.







You'll know what I'm talking about when you see it.

G.O., I think you'll love your PC P&C 750 Quad.







Mine has been problem free ever since I put it in.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Club Officers, please check your emails.







You'll know what I'm talking about when you see it.

G.O., I think you'll love your PC P&C 750 Quad.







Mine has been problem free ever since I put it in.


Nothing in my inbox yet joe.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Woot! getting THIS in 2 days ..............Finally!!!









$99 after rebate which I all ready have in an envelope


 Hey is this the same power supply just diff color? It just dropped out of no where in my email. http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/Produc...inid=103597555


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hey is this the same power supply just diff color? It just dropped out of no where in my email. http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/Produc...inid=103597555


N2Gaming, both are slightly different. The one you posted (S75CF Red) is "_ATI CrossFire certified_" and only comes with a 24-pin power connector. The one that Guardian is picking up (S75QB Black) is "_NVIDIA SLI Certified_" but comes with both 20/24-pin power connectors. Everything else is the same (wattage, amperage). I highly doubt it matters running a Nvidia SLI Certified PSU on a Crossfire setup.

Hope that helps


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks Think3r. I was not sure but now that I think about it the color of the power supplies makes perfect sense. blk sli, red crossfire. Just wanted to share the deal with members if they were interested in getting a new power supply. I personlally just purchased a hx620 last night on ebay for $61.00 hopefully it's good. If it's not I should still have some warranty left as I don't believe those have been out for fire years.


----------



## Blitz6804

What went wrong with your Toughpower? Or is this to replace your Enermax 600 W?


----------



## N2Gaming

Neither. I have a lot of pc's and need more psu's







As of right now. I have 2 sli dr's one that I'm on right now and one that is still under construction. both have the sound module







I have a sli dr expert that works but not quite sure how good and an extra expert for parts. or maybe I'll try to fix that one some day in the future. Thats My DFI Arsenal. Then I have 3 x Asus m2n32 sli delux wifi boards. One of which is at Asus right now for repairs. Coinsidentally that one is my favorite m2n32 board becuase it has a removeable bios chip and the other two m2n32's do not. I only really want three stable systems. However I do plan on pushing the envelope of overclocking and I think having extra's is a good idea for any dead board problems that may occur.


----------



## nategr8ns

you make me jealous of your setup


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
you make me jealous of your setup









Hey nate if your refering to me don't be. I only bought one dfi sli dr new over 3 years ago and one m2n32 new about 2 months ago. The rest I got on ebay for really good prices. the Asus off for repairs was one of the boards from ebay. And I suspect all the other dfi boards have some kind of issue's yet to be discovered.


----------



## thlnk3r

N2Gaming, that almost sounds like the 14 Pentium 4 motherboards that I recently had stored away


----------



## N2Gaming

Think3r, you made my day. I got a good laugh from that. Becuase it's nice to know I'm not alone when it comes to stockpiling pc parts.


----------



## Blitz6804

I think my dad still has his Pentium I in the basement. I just recently got rid of my Skt A but I still have a Skt 423 in my garage.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

And I thought I was the only nut-job with a stockpile of spares!


----------



## nategr8ns

I have a bunch [3] of PIII systems








and some more assorted systems.
Most of them were donated though.

How can I tell the difference between PIIs and PIIIs? Until this afternoon, I thought the three PIIIs were actually PIIs







.


----------



## N2Gaming

I think some of those p3's were a slot type cpu?
Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*









And I thought I was the only nut-job with a stockpile of spares!










 LOL for all us nut-job's


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


werent some of those p3's slot type cpu?


N2Gaming, that's correct. The Pentium II's were Slot 1. The Pentium II Xeon's were Slot 2. Some Pentium III's also came in Slot 1 but were eventually moved over to Socket 370.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

ok. good to know. not really but I do remember some people complaining about the slot verses socket cpu prices and availability way back when I worked for a rack mount server solutions company. we user to call them a slocket cpu


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, that's correct. The Pentium II's were Slot 1. The Pentium II Xeon's were Slot 2. Some Pentium III's also came in Slot 1 but were eventually moved over to Socket 370.

Good luck


ah ok. Well maybe one or two of those slot systems _are_ PIIs :\\.
Whatever, I can check them out in BIOS tomorrow








(YAY for CPU-mounted heatsinks, not motherboard mounted







)


----------



## Blitz6804

Similar to slot CPUs, I miss daughterboards. Am I the only one who owned a daughterboard CPU? (You stick a board into a slot like you would a video board into a PCI-E slot. In that board goes the computer's CPU.)


----------



## N2Gaming

I remember those. we used them in the 4u telephony servers. or maybe it was the 2u server it's been a while.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Hey mates, been busy, so long time no see. Got my diploma at last







These days I had some time to care for my rig. Changed my lame TT Soprano for a CM690 and finally got some serious temp drops on the mobo!! Bad thing is my 8800gts 's fan failed and had to rma it but since there's not any 8800gts 512 in stock left for replacement, what should I have? An 9800GTX or an HD4850?? Tough choice for me please help!!


----------



## Blitz6804

Welcome back MikeV_E36. Congratulations on graduating.

I personally would go with a 4850. It is more powerful, has more vivid colors, and is newer. Only go with a 9800GTX if you want SLI in the near future in my opinion.


----------



## TestECull

lol Slotket.


----------



## MikeV_E36

No I'm not thinking of SLI at all as my cpu would surely act as a bottleneck on the system and I'm not thinking of replacing it for the next 2 years for sure. I was thinking of the ATI too as soon as it's also more power efficient than the 9800gtx. Comparingly to my 8800gts 512, is HD4850 better, inferior or almost the same? Which pcb would you suggest asus or sapphire?


----------



## Blitz6804

I personally like Sapphire over Asus. I can say, with some authority, that Asus Tech Support tries their best to fix problems. They do not fix them, but they certainly try. I have never tried Sapphire tech support.

Compared to an 8800 GTS, a 4850 will outgame, but will underfold.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Compared to an 8800 GTS, a 4850 will outgame, but will underfold.

Oopsiee, my english's not that good so I don't understand what you're sayin'


----------



## N2Gaming

4850 is better for gaming but not for flding thats how it sounds to me


----------



## Blitz6804

For "[email protected]," go 9800 GTX. For games, go HD 4850.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Thanks for the advice mates. Seems 4850 is my card







But now I'm in a f$#@#$% big dilema again







I could go for the 4870 also which is even better but I don't know if my 550w psu would like it







Already have 3 hdds, a high end mobo, oced cpu and 8 regular/led fans. I calculated the wattage on this site http://extreme.outervision.com/PSUEngine and it suggests 558W on 100% system load. So what do you think would the psu be capable of the 4870?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
Thanks for the advice mates. Seems 4850 is my card







But now I'm in a f$#@#$% big dilema again







I could go for the 4870 also which is even better but I don't know if my 550w psu would like it







Already have 3 hdds, a high end mobo, oced cpu and 8 regular/led fans. I calculated the wattage on this site http://extreme.outervision.com/PSUEngine and it suggests 558W on 100% system load. So what do you think would the psu be capable of the 4870?

Well...two things here.

1) If you've already got a G92 GTS 512MB, why do you need this "upgrade"? You really won't see much if any of a performance increase at all. I can vouche for that one...I've ran a 4850 in my rig briefly for benching purposes.

2) If your PSU is fine for the GTS 512 in your sig....it'll be fine for the 4850. What's the amperage like on the 12v rail? If its at least 30, you'll be "safe", however I'd recommend at least 34a on the 12v rail personally. But some people will disagree with me.

But also, like I said, if your PSU is fine with your rig and the GTS 512, then it'll be fine with a 4850. If I recall correctly, the 4850 requires slightly less power than a G92 card does.

EDIT:
Durrr....didn't remember your last post.

Like I said, if the GTS was fine, the 4850 will be fine.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
Thanks for the advice mates. Seems 4850 is my card







But now I'm in a f$#@#$% big dilema again







I could go for the 4870 also which is even better but I don't know if my 550w psu would like it







Already have 3 hdds, a high end mobo, oced cpu and 8 regular/led fans. I calculated the wattage on this site http://extreme.outervision.com/PSUEngine and it suggests 558W on 100% system load. So what do you think would the psu be capable of the 4870?

From experience I would suggest a large PSU for sure. Either a 600watt or 700watt I think would bold better for you.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
If you've already got a G92 GTS 512MB, why do you need this "upgrade"? You really won't see much if any of a performance increase at all. I can vouche for that one...I've ran a 4850 in my rig briefly for benching purposes.

Well pio I was too happy with my g92 until it malfunctioned







Now I'm having a replacement and 8800gts 512 is not in stock, so I'm going for a new card like an Ati 4850. I was considering a 4870 also but seems my psu won't be capable of running it properly and in second hand my cpu would act as a bottleneck also. 4870 is money spent in bad way, so I might be going for the 4850.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
Well pio I was too happy with my g92 until it malfunctioned







Now I'm having a replacement and 8800gts 512 is not in stock, so I'm going for a new card like an Ati 4850. I was considering a 4870 also but seems my psu won't be capable of running it properly and in second hand my cpu would act as a bottleneck also. 4870 is money spent in bad way, so I might be going for the 4850.

Yeah like I said in my edit, I didn't realize your G92 died. The 4850 will be a GREAT card to buy, even for a 939 rig. I personally saw gains in 3DMark and Crysis going from my G92 to a 4850. 10500 3DMark06 with my G92 (OC'd to suicide levels). 10900 3DMark06 with a STOCK 4850. In the Crysis benchmark I averaged ROUGHLY 3-5 FPS higher with the 4850. Its not much, but it is still an upgrade







. And well worth it.

Just try to get them clocks up as high as you can. I've personally found the "sweet" spot for gaming (without "bottlenecking") is around 2.7-3.0GHz. Anywhere in that range, you should be able to whoop any game's butt. Obviously, the higher the better...but you want it to be stable as well.


----------



## TestECull

Mikey: Don't worry about your CPU bottlenecking you. MY CPU bottlenecks every game I run, yet I can still play anything I want to on it.


----------



## Shift.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
Thanks for the advice mates. Seems 4850 is my card








But now I'm in a f$#@#$% big dilema again







I could go for the 4870 also which is even better but I don't know if my 550w psu would like it







Already have 3 hdds, a high end mobo, oced cpu and 8 regular/led fans. I calculated the wattage on this site http://extreme.outervision.com/PSUEngine and it suggests 558W on 100% system load. So what do you think would the psu be capable of the 4870?

I'd try to get the 4870 if you can. And a PSU upgrade down the road wouldn't hurt either.

Like stated before, I would pay closer attention to the amperage on the 12v rails rather than the voltage in many cases. Especially with not-so-well-known brands. You'd be cutting it close, but I think you'd be fine with a quality 550W unit.









How much of a difference do you have to pay for the card - if any?


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shift.*


I'd try to get the 4870 if you can. And a PSU upgrade down the road wouldn't hurt either.

Like stated before, I would pay closer attention to the amperage on the 12v rails rather than the voltage in many cases. Especially with not-so-well-known brands. You'd be cutting it close, but I think you'd be fine with a quality 550W unit.









How much of a difference do you have to pay for the card - if any?


I was credited the whole purchase price of the card which is 240 euros. If I go for the 4870 I won't have to pay any difference as it costs 239 but I'll have to pay another 100 euros to have a decent modular 700w psu, as I don't think the quality of my current 550w psu is that good. Plus I finally don't think the 4870 will be performing great with my cpu, seems I can't go past the 2640mhz stable








So what I'm planning to have is the Sapphire HD4850 512 + Chieftec 750W Turbo Series Modular PSU + CM 80x80x15 (Fan for the mobo backplate







) which is totally the same as credit. The only thing that's holding me back from ordering is that I can't find the dual slot cooled version of the card.. Should I go for the singe slot instead?? Pio the one you had been testing was dual or single slot? Was the core getting too hot during tests?


----------



## Blitz6804

ATI Recommends a 450 W PSU with one PCI-E connector for a 4850; a 500 W PSU with two PCI-E connectors for a 4870.

They do not test Qtek, but if you want a new power supply, these are certified to power a single card. If you want to keep your power supply for the next few years (to the next motherboard), these are certified for crossfire.

48xxs get HOT. Like, VERY hot. I would go for a dual slot cooler if at all possible. I would fan mod the card in either event. (There is a setting in CCC to do so. Stock fan speeds, load temperatures approach 80Âº-90Âº C.)


----------



## MikeV_E36

You 're right but those requirements don't take into consideration the oced cpu and the 3 sata hdds that are in my system and drain a significant amount of power!! Ain't I right?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
You 're right but those requirements don't take into consideration the oced cpu and the 3 sata hdds that are in my system and drain a significant amount of power!! Ain't I right?

Correct, but it's still useful information because it gives you a handy baseline from which to start your amperage requirement calculations.


----------



## pez

Hello guys, I haven't been updated on the thread in a while







. Pio about the comment you made earlier in another thread, I plan on getting a nice 1680x1050 or 1920x1200 monitor when I get my next card. I think soon I'm going to try and clock my rig a bit higher again to see if I can see any differences, but if not I'll just be happy at 2.5







. So from what I've read though, 1920x1200 takes a lot of load of your CPU and puts basically most of the load on the GPU's. You guys think I'd do fine at 19x12 res for games like COD4, CSS, FO3 (I know bioshock would be fine)? I know crysis will have to run at like 16x10, or 14x9, but that will be fine. I plan on getting a TV tuner card as well, so a nice 24" 19x12 monitor would be nice to have.

BTW: I'm speaking of SLI'ing the 98gt I have.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Compared to an 8800 GTS, a 4850 will outgame, but will underfold.

Blitz, what is the average ppd between the two cards? I think it's more of the client and driver support for the 48xx series that is lacking.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
You 're right but those requirements don't take into consideration the oced cpu and the 3 sata hdds that are in my system and drain a significant amount of power!! Ain't I right?

MikeV, do you have the URL that shows the specifications of your Qtek 500W power supply? I have a feeling it's a European branded PSU. I'm having difficulties locating it on the internetz.

Pez, 9800GT's in SLI should have no problem running that resolution. It also depends how much eye candy(AA, AF) you plan on enabling within the games. That is what really takes a toll on video cards. If you can squeeze a bit more out of your 3800+ then that would help as well.

Good guys


----------



## Blitz6804

No, it does not take "load off your CPU." There is actually more CPU load at 1920x1200 than 1440x900. However, there is a caveat. At a low resolution, such as 800x600, most of the game's work is done by the CPU. Up in the high zone, such as 2560x1600, most of the game's work is done by the GPU. The CPU will be working harder at the higher resolution. However, the GPU will be working MUCH harder.

To quantify it, suppose at 800x600, the CPU loads 15%, the GPU loads at 5%. At 2560x1600 for the same game, you would expect the CPU around 30%, and the GPU around 95%. So both have had their burdens increased, but the GPU is taking the brunt of the added work. (In this case, 8.5 times as many pixels. 800x600 is 480 kilopixels, and 2560x1600 is 4096 kilopixels.*)

*"Kilo" here being the decimal prefix, not binary.

Thlnk3r: You are correct, it is a driver malformation on the 48xx. Each itineration is improving it, but at present, I think it is around 2200 PPD. A 9800 GTX is more around 5000 PPD if I recall correctly.


----------



## pez

So what res would you guys suggest? I want to at least go 16x10, but I was kinda hoping that I would be able to pull 19x12. I run COD4 maxed at 1280x1024/1440x900 and get about 50-60 fps on average (with the OC my minimum fps is around 40-46) if that gives any indication. How would 16x10 res look on a 19x12 monitor? I saw in best buy a 22" running a 1440x900 res and didn't look bad (but was on the desktop), so if I got a 24" would I be really dissapointed in having to run 16x10 res on it?


----------



## Blitz6804

I run a 1920x1200 monitor. Any 16:10 resolution looks fine in my opinion. 1440x900 is of course fancier than 1280x800, and 1680x1050 fancier than 1440x900, but as long as it is with the proper aspect I find it fine. (I prefer letterboxing. If I run a 4:3 program, like MapleStory at 800x600, I will have black bars left and right. If I watch a movie in 16:9, like Saving Private Ryan, I will have black bars top and bottom.)

Crysis looked fine at 1440x900 with a single 3850. I might even venture it looks better than a pair at 1920x1200. Most other games though I could run 1920x1200 with a single 3850. (Granted, sans AA, something I do not really need anyway. I will take a higher rez over AA any day.) A 9800 GT is a MUCH more powerful card. You will be fine.


----------



## pez

So 19x12? I'm getting excited







. Blitz, to keep you updated, I'm still trying to find the funds for that other 2 gigs







. I'm going to have to start transferring money to paypal little bits at a time to remind myself







. Unless you wanna give me a slightly discounted price







.


----------



## Blitz6804

I am already selling them at a loss in all fairness.

Understand Pez, I am running 1920x1200 on a 27" monitor. I have the same DPI as someone running 1680x1050 on a 24" monitor. 1920x1200 on a 24" monitor may make the text too small for some to read. My prior monitor was a 20" with 1600x1200, and I can tell you, text on the 27" is much larger. In my opinion, maybe a little TOO large; I wish this monitor topped out at 2560x1600. Not that my graphics cards could drive it.

Mike: If you can afford it, meaning both the card and likely a power supply, I really would recommend an HD 4870. The HD 4870 puts the HD 4850 to shame. Legion Hardware shows the HD 4850 and the 9800 GTX rather comparable.


----------



## pez

Yeah, I know blitz. Good thing is, I get paid for the election work I did by the end of the month, so you'll be in luck. Then onto the zalman 9700 nt to add some class to my stock cpu cooling.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


You are correct, it is a driver malformation on the 48xx. Each itineration is improving it, but at present, I think it is around 2200 PPD. A 9800 GTX is more around 5000 PPD if I recall correctly.


Blitz, check this thread out. Some are getting on average 3000+ PPD with a 4850. Some are getting close to 4k. I may have to give this a try sometime in the future









Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

2200 PPD was with the launch drivers, that is, CCC 8.5. Each driver itineration is increasing the PPD.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, check this thread out. Some are getting on average 3000+ PPD with a 4850. Some are getting close to 4k. I may have to give this a try sometime in the future









Good luck


It really depends on the work unit. Some work units on a Nvidia will yield 5000+ ppd while other work units on the same card will only yield 2000+ppd

ATI is the same way, they just do not fold in the high ppd's


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


It really depends on the work unit. Some work units on a Nvidia will yield 5000+ ppd while other work units on the same card will only yield 2000+ppd

ATI is the same way, they just do not fold in the high ppd's


Guardian, doesn't it also depend how large the WU is?

Good luck


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Guardian, doesn't it also depend how large the WU is?

Good luck


yes. I do not know how large each WU is. I do try to fold the larger WU when I am able too.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Geez my head is running too hot, need some extra cooling







Too much research to find the right graphics card and still haven't come to a conclusion







. I was ready to order the Sapphire 4850 till I read that it heats too too much. Even the "dual slot" edition exhausts all that hot air inside the case, too lame. I just wish I had back my 8800gts







So here we go again from scratch.. The only decent cooled HD4850 is the HIS ICEQ4 which is not in stock. So now I'm looking for the 4870 + 700w at least psu.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Mike: If you can afford it, meaning both the card and likely a power supply, I really would recommend an HD 4870. The HD 4870 puts the HD 4850 to shame. Legion Hardware shows the HD 4850 and the 9800 GTX rather comparable.


Will the CPU bottleneck the system or not?? I'm not willing to upgrade mobo/cpu in the next 2-3 years so if cpu is bottleneckin it's gonna be a waste of money... What do you think?


----------



## Blitz6804

As I have said many times in here, a "CPU bottleneck" rarely exists, if ever. at the resolution most gamers game at, the CPU is a rather insignificant factor. At 1920x1200, I lose all of 1 FPS going from 3.25 GHz to 2.25 GHz in Call of Duty 4. The only time a "bottleneck" arises is when you are benchmarking.

No matter how great your CPU/GPU combo is, most modern monitors are capped at 60 Hz. So if you ask me, your MONITOR is the bottleneck. The alternative of course is to get a higher refreshing one, but I would rather just turn up the eye candy.

Regards work units: Yes, different ones give different PPD. I generally find the larger the unit, the higher the PPD to a point. If the unit becomes larger than your hardware can tolerate, it goes down. The "sweet spot" (1700-1900 PPD) for my HD 3850 GPU2 is the 548 point GROMACS.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


No matter how great your CPU/GPU combo is, most modern monitors are capped at 60 Hz. So if you ask me, your MONITOR is the bottleneck. The alternative of course is to get a higher refreshing one, but I would rather just turn up the eye candy.


That was really helpful mate, thanks! Thought that my cpu would drop the overall performance of the system.

@thlnk3r
Mate my PSU brand is not very popular, as I can see there's no webpage of the company online







. I'll have to pull it out of my case to read the spec's sticker to find out the 12v rail amperage. But I'm gonna buy a new psu anyway..


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


That was really helpful mate, thanks! Thought that my cpu would drop the overall performance of the system.

@thlnk3r
Mate my PSU brand is not very popular, as I can see there's no webpage of the company online







. I'll have to pull it out of my case to read the spec's sticker to find out the 12v rail amperage. But I'm gonna buy a new psu anyway..


Why not go for a 9800GTX/+? That would be a very nice card, especially for the res, and a 4870 would be even better. I'm going to check out a PSU calculator to see how much power a 4870 takes up w/ your set up. Gimme a minuted







.

EDIT: Came out to 473 on a maximum 100% load. I think you'll be fine, even if it is a no name. You were already pushing a 8800GTS and it held, so you'll be fine. If you have at least a single or combined 12v rail of 24v, then I say you should be fine.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


No matter how great your CPU/GPU combo is, most modern monitors are capped at 60 Hz. So if you ask me, your MONITOR is the bottleneck. The alternative of course is to get a higher refreshing one, but I would rather just turn up the eye candy.


Refresh rates arn't as important as they were in the CRT-days though, are they?
Like an LCD monitor at 75Hz can still update the image faster than a CRT at let's say 100Hz, given that the LCD has a low enough response time.
Maybe I'm wrong, but either way it doesn't really matter, as eventually, your eyes will become the bottleneck


----------



## MikeV_E36

Thanks for all the info mates! I mispelled the brand of my PSU







It's a QTEC and the product page is http://www.qtec.info/products/product.htm.214.html . The two 12V rails pull out a max 192w each, that's 16A. It's a 4870 final, not researching anymore!

@pez
The psu calculator I used came out to 558w at 100% load. Maybe you didn't add all the components of my system! Do you think I should try with the current psu before buying a new one??


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
Thanks for all the info mates! I mispelled the brand of my PSU







It's a QTEC and the product page is http://www.qtec.info/products/product.htm.214.html . The two 12V rails pull out a max 192w each, that's 16A. It's a 4870 final, not researching anymore!

@pez
The psu calculator I used came out to 558w at 100% load. Maybe you didn't add all the components of my system! Do you think I should try with the current psu before buying a new one??

MikeV, 16A is pretty low but surprisingly it was still able to run your previous setup. Glad to hear you plan on switching that unit out.

To be honest I don't trust those "psu calculators". There is no way your machine full load either it be Orthos or 3DMark06 will draw 558 watts. That is ridiculous. I can imagine 300 watts full load but not almost 600 watts. During Orthos testing, my rig pulled in around 170-180 watts. Same goes for 3DMark06. That was with my 3850 though so I would imagine the numbers being slightly higher with my 4850.

Good luck


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
Thanks for all the info mates! I mispelled the brand of my PSU







It's a QTEC and the product page is http://www.qtec.info/products/product.htm.214.html . The two 12V rails pull out a max 192w each, that's 16A. It's a 4870 final, not researching anymore!

@pez
The psu calculator I used came out to 558w at 100% load. Maybe you didn't add all the components of my system! Do you think I should try with the current psu before buying a new one??

If its only got 16a on the 12v rails combined, then I'd recommend a different PSU first. That is just begging for problems. I would not put ANY current gen GPU on that PSU if the GPU requires extra power.

And a 4870 would be a great choice. It'll beat just about any card out there (and are going for roughly $205 AR right now). I believe the only cards that beat it are the GTX280 (by just a few frames per second), and the 4870x2 which is roughly two 4870 1GB cards on the same PCB.


----------



## pez

Yeah, 16A is pretty low, and it surprises me a 8800GTS worked fine on that. I would suggest a nice cheap, but still good PSU. The one in my sig I got for $70 shipped and it works like a dream







.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Yeah, 16A is pretty low, and it surprises me a 8800GTS worked fine on that. I would suggest a nice cheap, but still good PSU. The one in my sig I got for $70 shipped and it works like a dream







.


Pez, a friend of mine just picked up a EA650W and is loving it every second. He replaced his failed Hipro. He went to Best Buy though so needless to say he spent more on it.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Pez: MikeV_E36 lives in Greece. "Cheap" does not apply in Europe for most parts.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Pez: MikeV_E36 lives in Greece. "Cheap" does not apply in Europe for most parts.


Blitz, novatech is an excellent website that carries computer components in Europe. The prices aren't bad and I am pretty sure they could deliver to Greece. Check it out: http://www.novatech.co.uk/novatech/p...x1y0z1p0s0n0m0.

Good luck


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Pez: MikeV_E36 lives in Greece. "Cheap" does not apply in Europe for most parts.


I meant cheap as far as the retail price in general is cheaper then most other 650 watt PSU's. Don't make me post my fps results blitz!









It's much quieter than that APEVIA. Guess I'll have to ask my parents if the electric bill got smaller, though now my dad is crying to me about turning my comp off before I go to school







. I was gonna fold 







. Guess I'll have to do it while I sleep or something.


----------



## MikeV_E36

I appreciate all of your value advice and help mates. Thank you very much! It's true that electronics here in Greece are not that cheap in General.. Anyway I just ordered the Sapphire HD4870 1gb ddr5 and a Chieftec Turbo Series 750w modular PSU which was the best choice considering quality and money. I read that this PSU is 1:1 as Thermaltake Toughpower 750W, which means the OEM is CWT







. Waiting for the goods to arrive these days, when I get everything together I'll post results and photos of the rig! Cheers mates!


----------



## pez

NICE. You'll love the HD4870. Don't even worry about bottleneck. With that monitor you'll be perfect.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


I was gonna fold







. Guess I'll have to do it while I sleep or something.


What's that fold craze?? I don't get it


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Wow, guys, all this talk of new parts and updates is making me want to do the same!









Actually, to be perfectly honest, I do have a project in the works. S939, of course. Been talking to thlnk3r about it a bit lately. It'll be for gaming at my parents' house. I occasionally go there, and with my baby sister and her family (including my beloved nephews) leaving for Vancouver, B.C., at the end of the year I'll need some kind of diversion for when I go for a visit.







The Socket A machine that's currently in my bedroom over there is pathetically slow.









Though it's entirely possible that I could just deploy the current sig rig and leave it there, while the new build stays with me at my apartment...









Decisions, decisions...


----------



## Blitz6804

If it is any help to you Joe, Newegg has a Sapphire HD 4870 512 MB on sale for $205 after MIR today only. Tomorrow, it will be $235 after MIR I believe.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Wow, guys, all this talk of new parts and updates is making me want to do the same!









Actually, to be perfectly honest, I do have a project in the works. S939, of course. Been talking to thlnk3r about it a bit lately. It'll be for gaming at my parents' house. I occasionally go there, and with my baby sister and her family (including my beloved nephews) leaving for Vancouver, B.C., at the end of the year I'll need some kind of diversion for when I go for a visit.







The Socket A machine that's currently in my bedroom over there is pathetically slow.









Though it's entirely possible that I could just deploy the current sig rig and leave it there, while the new build stays with me at my apartment...









Decisions, decisions...









Tell me about it. Decisions, Decisions... Recently I was going to buy a board like the one in your sig rig A8N32 SLI Delux. is that the only 939 w/true 16 x 16 sli board utilizing the nforce4 chipset, or just the most common when they were in production?

Has any one tried this software from Nvidia? http://www.nvidia.com/object/nvidia_...ools_6.03.html

I was just wondering if it would be usefull for getting a fine tune on my overclock.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Seems like you're up to opty hunting txtmstrjoe


----------



## Blitz6804

As far as I know, Joe has a stockpile of Opterons. He would be hunting for a Mobo and graphics cards. Wanna get that CFX3200 running Joe? Want to buy my HD 3850s?


----------



## pez

I don't know much about folding, but I know if you have a somewhat decent rig, you can contribute to it. I used to know the whole jist, but if you do a quick forums search for folding at home, then it would give you a better explanation then I would.


----------



## Lyoko

The entry "LyokoHaCk" in the first post is wrong. It's Opteron 165 - 3.2GHz not 3.0

http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...165-end-3.html


----------



## N2Gaming

at what point in my rep # will I be able to see a flame above my avatar? is it 50, 100 just wondering.


----------



## Lyoko

First one is 25 I believe.


----------



## N2Gaming

cool thanks.


----------



## Blitz6804

N2Gaming: I presume it is 50.

LyokoHaCk: I have you down with 3099.9 MHz, since that is what you have said you decided to run with stably. If you want me to change the offsite to the unstable 3212.1 MHz I will do so.

For those who have not noticed, people running S&M Stable rigs get added recognition on the off-site roster.


----------



## eviloverclocker

Heres the screenshot of my setup.

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...in/Capture.jpg


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eviloverclocker*


Heres the screenshot of my setup.

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...in/Capture.jpg


Welcome on board







Not willing to push that 4200+ a little higher??


----------



## Blitz6804

eviloverclocker: Welcome to the club! I will add you to the off-site roster shortly. (Stock 4200+; very tasty!)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

@ LyokoHaCk: Your roster entry has been amended. My apologies.









Please welcome our newest member, eviloverclocker.









As far as parts for my upcoming build go, I'm waiting for just a couple of items. But all the essentials are there: CPU (Opteron, natch!), DFI LANParty UT (which one, though?







), RAM (I have a few options here as well), PSU, video card, and HDDs are all present and accounted for.

I will say this, however: I don't think I'm daft enough to trust the CFX3200-DR for a dedicated, reliable, gaming machine (not yet). She's just too demanding to play with and work on. Either that, or I'm not worthy of her.

Someday soon, though (very very soon, in fact), I'll have marshaled enough gumption and motivation to revisit her. I hope she and I get to make some sweet overclocking music together.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
I read that this PSU is 1:1 as Thermaltake Toughpower 750W, which means the OEM is CWT

MikeV, good choice in selection. My VX550 from Corsair is also manufactured by CWT. It's been solid since it's first purchase almost a year ago. In regards to your Folding question here is more details about it: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/[email protected].

Eviloverclocker, welcome to the club


----------



## OCGhost

Here's my baby, been going strong on stock air/voltage for almost 3 years:

Validation


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *OCGhost* 
Here's my baby, been going strong on stock air for almost 3 years:

Validation



Welcome OCGhost, the boys will get you setup as soon as they can.


----------



## thlnk3r

OCGhost, looking good









Welcome to the club. You've been added to the roster.


----------



## JEmmaB

Welcome! OCGhost.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Welcome to the club OCGhost!

Previous and this morning I found my pc crashed







Is there any place that could be dumping any log so I can see what's wrong?? Yesterday the screen froze at screensaver and today there was no signal at monitor. My oc seemed to be stable all that time







I raised the voltage to 1.425 to see if problem is solved. The funny thing is that the pc runs fine during the whole daytime and it hangs when I go to bed. Some sort of complain for leavin it alone?? LOL


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


Welcome to the club OCGhost!

Previous and this morning I found my pc crashed







Is there any place that could be dumping any log so I can see what's wrong?? Yesterday the screen froze at screensaver and today there was no signal at monitor. My oc seemed to be stable all that time







I raised the voltage to 1.425 to see if problem is solved. The funny thing is that the pc runs fine during the whole daytime and it hangs when I go to bed. Some sort of complain for leavin it alone?? LOL


which stability tests did you run to check the stability after the OC?


----------



## MikeV_E36

I ran Orthos for Dual core cpu and ram stressing and today I tried to download the S&M using the link provided in the first page but the avast reported it as a virus so I aborted the download


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


I ran Orthos for Dual core cpu and ram stressing and today I tried to download the S&M using the link provided in the first page but the avast reported it as a virus so I aborted the download


how long did you let it run? Normal stress tests should run 6+ hours and you should also try OCCT.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


how long did you let it run? Normal stress tests should run 6+ hours and you should also try OCCT.


I think it was about 8 hours but not very sure cause it was long time ago. I'll try again with orthos and OCCT and let you know what happens! cheers


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


I think it was about 8 hours but not very sure cause it was long time ago. I'll try again with orthos and OCCT and let you know what happens! cheers


sounds good, try OCCT first. I find it runs the system a bit harder than Orthos.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OCGhost*


Here's my baby, been going strong on stock air/voltage for almost 3 years:

Validation




OMGZ!!! He has the same mobo as me. BIOSTAR FTW! I knew there had to be someone else out there with one.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
sounds good, try OCCT first. I find it runs the system a bit harder than Orthos.

ok I ran OCCT for two hours. No crash! Load temps:

CPU Diode 44c
Core1 51c
Core2 44c
Mobo 32c
RAM module 1 39c
RAM module 2 42.3c
NB 44.9c
VRM 34.1c

Should I let it run for longer time?


----------



## TestECull

Mike, here's what I want you to do.

Go to rigsofrods.com and download the game.

Install it whereever you want, then launch it.

Spawn one crane, then park it.

Repeat above untill you get 3FPS.

you'll know if it's unstable...artifacts will appear, vehicles may explode, game may crash frequently or other assorted errors, and it will most certainly bluescreen if the proc is unstable enough. this puts Orthos, OCCT, ect ect to shame in this regard!

Good luck!


----------



## Blitz6804

Welcome aboard OCGhost; I will add you to the offsite roster when I get home. (I am in Trademarks and Unfair Competition right now.)

I think I mentioned it before, but my 3850s do not work as well as I had hoped. At my wit's end, I just ordered a new power supply. I will keep you all posted.


----------



## pez

Blitz, just pawn them off on ebay and you'll get more money than you would of here and then go for a 4850 or something. Sheesh







.


----------



## Blitz6804

My exact graphics cards cost $49.99 after MIR on Newegg.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


Mike, here's what I want you to do.

Go to rigsofrods.com and download the game.

Install it whereever you want, then launch it.

Spawn one crane, then park it.

Repeat above untill you get 3FPS.

you'll know if it's unstable...artifacts will appear, vehicles may explode, game may crash frequently or other assorted errors, and it will most certainly bluescreen if the proc is unstable enough. this puts Orthos, OCCT, ect ect to shame in this regard!

Good luck!


That isn't some kind of joke is it??







Sounds kinda weird lol. What do you mean until I get 3FPS?
Blitz which PSU are you gettin'?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

A part of me is most intrigued with TestECull's suggestion.










I shall have to try that sometime soon...


----------



## TestECull

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
That isn't some kind of joke is it??







Sounds kinda weird lol. What do you mean until I get 3FPS?
Blitz which PSU are you gettin'?


I'm dead serious. Rigs of Rods is a unique freeware game that uses simple nodes and beams to create any kind of object you desire. This means that a large, 5-axle crane is very computationally heavy, and just three of these things can start to drag an E6600 down to about 20-30FPS. They WILL locate any remote instability in your processor, and they WILL let you know when they found it.

Additionally, being a freeware game, it's not quite a stable as a Valve release. It's very sensitive to unstable hardware. When my rig is unstable, RoR refuses to run properly, lags at strange times, gives wierd artifacts with vehicles, can't hold a connection to multiplayer servers and crashes quite frequently. When I stabilize things, RoR runs like a dream, that is untill I pick a larger vehicle...lol.

The crane in question has over 150 nodes and well over *4,000* beams connecting them. They lag enough as it is. Get enough of them out to get 3 or 4 FPS, and you will know if your chip is stable or not. By comparison, my homebuilt low-lag racecar has 57 nodes and 1100 beams...

to display FPS, simply hit F. should pop up an FPS overlay on the bottom of the screen.

Joe: Keep an eye on your temps...RoR is very computationally heavy, and *will* heat up your proc...it's what got mine hot and started to find instabilities I didn't know were there.

All: I've also found Garry's Mod to be sensitive to unstable overclocks, much moreso than Orthos seems to be. Again, it's computationally heavy given it's sandbox nature and the fact that Garry's left in more bugs than he's fixed over the years, and this allows you to spot instabilities you wouldn't see elsewhere. However...it's ten bucks on steam, and altho worth it, I don't suggest it for stability testing purposes on that sole point.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Thanks for the temp heads up, TestE!









I wonder how this compares to S&M's methods of CPU thermal torture...

Ack! I wish I was at home right now!


----------



## TestECull

lol...well, it's certainly a very fun way to torture a CPU...







You get to test out cool things and crash vehicles in every way imagineable!

O, and if the cranes aren't enough lag, spawn a few AN12's...

I also forgot to mention: RoR only renders physics when you are in a vehicle, and even then only for vehicles within a certain radius. This radius seems to vary, and is based on vehicle size, my racecar barely reaches out 50 meters but the cranes will activate things a good 250 meters away. Keep that in mind when stability testing.


----------



## thlnk3r

TestECull, how long do you normally run Rigs of Rod? Is there a certain time frame we should follow or should we just spawn a bunch of vehicles?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I think I mentioned it before, but my 3850s do not work as well as I had hoped. At my wit's end, I just ordered a new power supply. I will keep you all posted.

Blitz, I thought your "dedicated" +12V3 with 19amps was plenty for your two cards? What different versions of CCC did you test with? What were the temps while in RTHDRIBL?

Good luck


----------



## TestECull

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
TestECull, how long do you normally run Rigs of Rod? Is there a certain time frame we should follow or should we just spawn a bunch of vehicles?



Just spam vehicles, then drive through the whole mess. You don't need any time, if there's an instability, it will show. The game is VERY sensitive, indeed. Errors can be as minor as a single invisible triangle in the vehicle's skin(Surprizingly easy to see, since single triangles can be two meters across or more), to vehicles exploding, to very funky physics(Such as hitting an object and flying around like you were going twice the speed you were, except there wasn't anything to hit where you hit it), black/tan screens of death(where the GUI completely fubars. Tan screen of death is where you can still exit via Escape button, Black screen of death where the error message doesn't pop up ontop of the game properly and requires an alt-tab), crashing on it's own, inability to maintain a connection to a multiplayer server right up to BSOD's and complete windows crashes.

As far as running time...I run till I get bored







It is a game, after all, and a very fun one when I just want to drive every vehicle under the sun into a pole at high speed...lol. The fact that it also senses minute instabilities Orthos, Prime95 and the like completely misses came as a surprise to me.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
My exact graphics cards cost $49.99 after MIR on Newegg.

Well you'll still need funds for a new card...so why not? If you wait too long, they'll drop even lower...


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz, I thought your "dedicated" +12V3 with 19amps was plenty for your two cards? What different versions of CCC did you test with? What were the temps while in RTHDRIBL?

*On paper* it is enough amperage. In reality, I do not know. Recall that it is 19 A provided that all 12V rails are not exceeding 52 A. If it still does it when I get the new power supply, back the supply goes.

As to Catalyst: 8.4, 8.5, 8.6, 8.7, 8.8, 8.9, 8.10, 8.11 beta, 8.11.

Between 8.9 and 8.10 I lost the ability to install the Northbridge Filter Driver. It keeps telling me missing INF.


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz, does your set up crash in any other applications/games? Are you sure it's just not RTHDRIBL being buggy? Sounds like you would have had a easier time with a single video card. This is turning into a big pain









Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Since it was a sidebar, I have put a separate thread for it. But, I will share that Black and White 2 crashes within 15-20 seconds. Call of Duty 4 in as short as two minutes depending on the map. Programs do not crash, but rather, causes the VPU recover to kick in.

Believe me Thlnk3r, if I had the money for a 48xx, I would already have one.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Since it was a sidebar, I have put a separate thread for it. But, I will share that Black and White 2 crashes within 15-20 seconds. Call of Duty 4 in as short as two minutes depending on the map. Programs do not crash, but rather, causes the VPU recover to kick in.

Blitz, it's starting to sound more and more like a power supply issue. Your dedicated +12V3 rail of 19amps sounds like it would be plenty though









How soon do you receive the new unit?

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

It is Newegg. Hopefully, before I leave town.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Just installed the PC P&C 750Watt. Testing stability now


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Just installed the PC P&C 750Watt. Testing stability now









G.O., I forget: Which version of the PSU did you get?

I run the black one myself, though I have to admit there's something real sexay about the red one too. Ooh, and the now-discontinued copper-painted one was hot, too.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


G.O., I forget: Which version of the PSU did you get?

I run the black one myself, though I have to admit there's something real sexay about the red one too. Ooh, and the now-discontinued copper-painted one was hot, too.


Joe, I think he bought the black model (S75QB). Interesting how the S75QB is for "SLI configurations" and the S75CF is for "Crossfire"









Good luck


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Joe, I think he bought the black model (S75QB). Interesting how the S75QB is for "SLI configurations" and the S75CF is for "Crossfire"









Good luck


Mr. Thinker is correct









Ok, I ran a 10 minute OCCT test at 3024Mhz. .....Wow I have never seen those lines stay so stable. I'm giddy like a school girl.









My reason for the short run. Normally I would fail "error 4" after 1-4 minutes. I will run a 6 hour test when I go to bed tonight.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Joe, I think he bought the black model (S75QB). Interesting how the S75QB is for "SLI configurations" and the S75CF is for "Crossfire"









Good luck


If I'm not mistaken, I don't believe there are any real differences (except for case color and multi-GPU certification) between either the S75QB and the S75CF. (I gotta check the facts for myself soon, though.







)

G.O., good luck with your testing later!


----------



## Blitz6804

GuardianOdin: I too am giddy like a school girl. Those are the flattest voltage lines I have ever seen in my life; congrats!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


If I'm not mistaken, I don't believe there are any real differences (except for case color and multi-GPU certification) between either the S75QB and the S75CF. (I gotta check the facts for myself soon, though.







)


Joe, I think the S75CF has just a 24-pin power connector. The S75QB has a 20/24-pin power connector. That seriously is the only main difference.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

G O way to go. I'm happy for you.








Here's a belated welcome to the few new members just recently joining our club.


----------



## pez

Woot guys, just ordered a CPU cooler finally (in the sig rig). You guys have any experience with this cooler? My main question is can you replace the fan, it looks propietary. Either way, I chose it over a Xigma because I could have the air blowing into my computers exhaust fan. Also, the fact that I can keep my side fan on is a big plus, too.


----------



## HothBase

I believe that Bogeyone001 has that same cooler








And I think my cooler uses the same kind of fan, I don't think it is supposed to be exchangable but I havn't looked too closely at it. Will do when I get home from school, I'm off to my class now.


----------



## nategr8ns

I'm pretty sure the fan is interchangable, but I have not tried it.
It is secured by a rubber knob that fits into the screw hole of the fan. I assume this knob would also hold on to any other fans, but if you have an extra fan (any size) I would test it out before buying anything.

Good luck


----------



## HothBase

I suppose that it might be possible. Maybe these images can be some help?
ACF64P Fan 10441356423.JPG
ACF64P Close-up acfreezer64P_rubber1.jpg


----------



## pez

I'll have to check those pics a bit later (this school monitor is so dark it's not even funny). The blue and black on this forums' page can't even be told apart.


----------



## GuardianOdin

This was for fun. I still run my stability test. I fell a sleep last night before I hit the green button.









Woot! 3.1Ghz


----------



## Sc4r3d

Wow what a great chipset. I have fallen to the dark side.. Intel







I just got away from my 3200+ and 4000+ 939's for a Q9550) by just I mean like this last week. I will always have fond memories of my 939's.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sc4r3d*


Wow what a great chipset. I have fallen to the dark side.. Intel







I just got away from my 3200+ and 4000+ 939's for a Q9550) by just I mean like this last week. I will always have fond memories of my 939's.


love me some 939, but I'm glad I am waiting to upgrade to AM2+/AM3 seeing that the new Phenoms are hitting 4Ghz+ and 6Ghz on LN.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


love me some 939, but I'm glad I am waiting to upgrade to AM2+/AM3 seeing that the new Phenoms are hitting 4Ghz+ and 6Ghz on LN.


Those are my thoughts too


----------



## Sc4r3d

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


love me some 939, but I'm glad I am waiting to upgrade to AM2+/AM3 seeing that the new Phenoms are hitting 4Ghz+ and 6Ghz on LN.


I look forward to the next set, I always have room for an extra computer


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


I'm pretty sure the fan is interchangable, but I have not tried it.
It is secured by a rubber knob that fits into the screw hole of the fan. I assume this knob would also hold on to any other fans, but if you have an extra fan (any size) I would test it out before buying anything.


Nate, Do you have the AC freezer 64 on your DFI board? If so can you take a quick picture for me? I am curious to see how much clearance there is bewtween the cooler and the PCI-E slot.

Guardian, awesome overclock









Your SuperPI 1M results may indicate some stability. Did you test with Orthos/OCCT? How much Vcore are you running?

Good luck


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Nate, Do you have the AC freezer 64 on your DFI board? If so can you take a quick picture for me? I am curious to see how much clearance there is bewtween the cooler and the PCI-E slot.

Guardian, awesome overclock









Your SuperPI 1M results may indicate some stability. Did you test with Orthos/OCCT? How much Vcore are you running?

Good luck


1.5 plus Volts.. I reset the rig back 3024Mhz until I finish downloading the new Nvidia drivers. I'm not sure if I want to run at 1.5+ Volts on air 24/7 if it turns out to be stable.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


1.5 plus Volts.. I reset the rig back 3024Mhz until I finish downloading the new Nvidia drivers. I'm not sure if I want to run at 1.5+ Volts on air 24/7 if it turns out to be stable.


Guardian, I had to run 1.5volts to get my 3.2Ghz OC. When I started testing for stability, the full load temps went out the roof. If your full load temps are fine then try running it for a while and see how you like it. I hardly see any 165's and 170's above 3Ghz.

Good luck


----------



## pez

Woot for 900 pages







.


----------



## HothBase

We should be hitting 1k any time now, we are filling those pages pretty fast. I remember myself joining not too long ago. Back then we were on page 755


----------



## Blitz6804

Lets just keep the posts on topic alrighty?

Sc4r3d: would you be interested in joining as a nostalgic? I am sure Joe will be PMing you the details.

GuardianOdin: at present, your best S&M is 3010 MHz. Is there a faster one in your future I wonder?


----------



## Sc4r3d

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Sc4r3d: would you be interested in joining as a nostalgic? I am sure Joe will be PMing you the details.


Send away my good man


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Lets just keep the posts on topic alrighty?

Sc4r3d: would you be interested in joining as a nostalgic? I am sure Joe will be PMing you the details.

GuardianOdin: at present, your best S&M is 3010 MHz. Is there a faster one in your future I wonder?


who knows man, I think I may end up getting those Muskin DDR500's and MAYBE run some watercooling on the CPU. I sort of at the point of (do I upgrade this rig or saeve that money for AM2+/AM3)

I'll see about running another S&M later today.


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, since you are still around...

A "Nostalgic" is someone who loved/loves 939 but is no longer running such a rig. If you are still running your rig, I can post you as an active. If not, just let me know what you were running and I'll hook you up.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Well, since you are still around...

A "Nostalgic" is someone who loved/loves 939 but is no longer running such a rig. If you are still running your rig, I can post you as an active. If not, just let me know what you were running and I'll hook you up.


Is this for me?

If so, lol I'll be running 939 for another year for sure


----------



## pez

Haha, well I'm still trying to acquire the other 2 gigs of that RAM. I need to see how crysis does on these new drivers to see if I need that other 2 gigs. I finally went for the CPU cooler, so maybe I'll be able to OC a bit more and then maybe I'll be good. I'm still curious if you can change the fan on the AC Freezer 64 Pro.

G.O. Do you game? I'm sure your cards default to x8/x8 since you have two cards, but do you notice a difference in games when the 8800GT isn't running at full x16 w/ the other card in there?


----------



## Blitz6804

Nah GO, for Sc4r3d. The question is if he will be a Nostalgic or an Active.

Pez: If all else fails, there is always the wire tie...


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Nah GO, for Sc4r3d. The question is if he will be a Nostalgic or an Active.

Pez: If all else fails, there is always the wire tie...


 intrigued I am what is wire tie...???


----------



## Blitz6804

An electrician's second best friend.

Their best friend of course being electrical tape.


----------



## Sc4r3d

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Nah GO, for Sc4r3d. The question is if he will be a Nostalgic or an Active.

Pez: If all else fails, there is always the wire tie...


what is the difference? I mean I know what Active means, but not sure I am following you







and im going on like 4 hour of sleep and already helped out 25 people with mind numbingly stupid desktop support issues!


----------



## N2Gaming

OK smarty pants I thought you were going to teach us a new trick to turn a 8x8 sli board into a 16x16 sli board.







It just goes to show how green I still am.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Haha, well I'm still trying to acquire the other 2 gigs of that RAM. I need to see how crysis does on these new drivers to see if I need that other 2 gigs. I finally went for the CPU cooler, so maybe I'll be able to OC a bit more and then maybe I'll be good. I'm still curious if you can change the fan on the AC Freezer 64 Pro.

G.O. Do you game? I'm sure your cards default to x8/x8 since you have two cards, but do you notice a difference in games when the 8800GT isn't running at full x16 w/ the other card in there?


I forgot to update my sig. I took the 8600GTS out.for my GF's rig I'm am building. I currently run a 16x with the 8800GT and have no issues with Crysis


----------



## Blitz6804

I do not have the link handy, but if I remember right, the difference between 8x/8x and 16x/16x is about 1-3%. The difference of 8x to 16x for a single card is slightly higher, to the tune of 2-5%. I know with an HD 3850, a far weaker card, there is no difference at all between AGP 8x, PCI-E 16x, and PCI-E 2.0 16x from experience.

Sc4r3d: The difference is that a "Nostalgic" member no longer runs their rig. There is no CPU-Z validation on the on-site roster. The off-site roster will permit CPU-Z validations if possible. (Of course, if you no longer have the rig, obtaining a CPU-Z is nigh on impossible.)

An "Active" member still runs a 939 computer. Even if only as a dedicated server (such as Xyro) this still counts. A CPU-Z validation or similar is required for this, and it will appear for your fastest rig on the on-site roster and all rigs on the off-site roster.


----------



## Sc4r3d

Hell I still have it running send me the info I will get her posted up, she is going to be a file server for me







I can't turn Bessy off! She has a single 4850 in her


----------



## Blitz6804

A 4850 and a pair of 4870s? I am jealous of your budget! (Especially since the latter are water cooled.)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I know with an HD 3850, a far weaker card, there is no difference at all between AGP 8x, PCI-E 16x, and PCI-E 2.0 16x from experience.


Blitz, the ATI 3850 is still a awesome card. Going from that to a 4850 I saw very little difference. In comparison to 3DMark06, the 3850 scored 9689 and the 4850 scored around 10600. Hardly any difference. Even in the source games I didn't really notice a difference.

Just to add, I ran a PCIe 2x setup with my 3850. The difference in-game was hugely noticeable when I went to 16x. Perhaps maybe not 8x versus 16x but 2x was a ridiculous hamper on performance.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I would hypothesize that the card nearly saturates the AGP 8x bus.

AGP 8x is 2,133 MB/s, PCI-E 16x is 4,000 MB/s, and PCI-E 2.0 16x is 8,000 MB/s. PCI-E 2x would in fact kill the card, as you said, for it has a hypothetical bandwidth of only 500 MB/s.

As I said though, from AGP to PCI-E 16x, my 3DMark06 was identical. Game performance was substantially similar, varying less than 1 FPS if at all. From 16x to 2.0 16x, I saw no difference at all from 16x.


----------



## Jack Pepsi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I would hypothesize that the card nearly saturates the AGP 8x bus.

AGP 8x is 2,133 MB/s, PCI-E 16x is 4,000 MB/s, and PCI-E 2.0 16x is 8,000 MB/s. PCI-E 2x would in fact kill the card, as you said, for it has a hypothetical bandwidth of only 500 MB/s.

As I said though, from AGP to PCI-E 16x, my 3DMark06 was identical. Game performance was substantially similar, varying less than 1 FPS if at all. From 16x to 2.0 16x, I saw no difference at all from 16x.

Which is why I didn't upgrade to PCI-E. ^^ Sorry to butt in, but I have something to add to, hopefully, make me official...


----------



## Blitz6804

Believe me Jack, if I did not have my motherboard die out from under me, I would have stayed with my AGP setup.

And I cannot hook you up. You see, you already have been a member! If you want however, I will change from the screen shot to the CPU-Z validation.


----------



## Jack Pepsi

No no! I haven't been able to hit 2.82 again so, I'm very much happy with keeping the first screeny as my proof.


----------



## Blitz6804

Anything higher than 2.7 is outstanding with a 3800+ anyway. I have to say, I am VERY jealous about your HD 3850. My AGP could not clock that high ever. (Stopped at 709/939. Any higher started dropping performance.) My PCI-E ones cannot upclock at all. I am wondering if it really is my PSU being too weak...


----------



## Sc4r3d

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
A 4850 and a pair of 4870s? I am jealous of your budget! (Especially since the latter are water cooled.)


I have a 3200+ on water with an X850 XTPE (on water) that is still running so I guess I have 2 AMD old fart machines









I went a LONG time on single core as a matter of fact, up until this week







.. I will have the Q9550 up and running tonight. Just waiting to hear from the front office my package has arrived







WAITING FOR THIS I have 2 kits of it coming, and since the ram was so cheap why not have 8GB haha. God I remember paying like $150 for my 2gb of g.skill for my 4000+ lol.
Here is a pic of the 3200+ with the 850 in water.. I will be reusing this case for this intel build (i paid enough) I really want a MM case but I already wasted a wad on my blue beauty.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I would hypothesize that the card nearly saturates the AGP 8x bus.

AGP 8x is 2,133 MB/s, PCI-E 16x is 4,000 MB/s, and PCI-E 2.0 16x is 8,000 MB/s. PCI-E 2x would in fact kill the card, *as you said*, for it has a hypothetical bandwidth of only 500 MB/s.

Blitz, you missed the whole point of my post plus I never say any of the above









I was posting in response to your, "a far weaker card" comment. In comparison to a 8800GT I don't think it's to far away in terms of performance.

Sc4r3d, looks good









What's funny is I think you have almost the same setup as my brother. He too has a 3200+, X850XTPE and an Abit board. Did you turn your case upside down or are you running a BTX form factor case?

Good luck guys


----------



## Blitz6804

Actually, in my experience Thlnk3r, I am going to need to disagree with you. With my CPU at equal clock speeds to Pioneerisloud's, one 3850 cannot touch his 8800 GTS. Both together in crossfire come close, but are still slightly lower. The 8800 GTS likely would have a noticeable difference from PCI-E 16x to PCI-E 8x.


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz, like I said...the 3850 is not to far in terms of performance. Of course it can't touch the 8800GT (which I referred to in my above post) but it's still up there


----------



## Sc4r3d

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz, you missed the whole point of my post plus I never say any of the above









I was posting in response to your, "a far weaker card" comment. In comparison to a 8800GT I don't think it's to far away in terms of performance.

Sc4r3d, looks good









What's funny is I think you have almost the same setup as my brother. He too has a 3200+, X850XTPE and an Abit board. Did you turn your case upside down or are you running a BTX form factor case?

Good luck guys

Thank you sir! Same setup as I have







.. This is a custom case click here

The owner of AAC or former owner, is a very close friend of mine, we lived about 2 houses away from each other. I was a long time customer that grew into a close friendship. The board mounts upside down and backwards.. funky right







. Here is a better pic of the bottom where I have a piece of acrylic to keep the heat at the bottom (pump, powersupply, rad.)










I will see if I can find another pic of the top half but I do loves it


----------



## thlnk3r

Sc4r3d, interesting setup. It almost reminds me of a Antec P180 but in BTX form. What model is the Abit motherboard? I notice the fans right above the I/O with the nice Fatality logo. Those boards were pretty popular when they first came. My brothers Fatality board is stock...I wonder what he could get out of it









Good luck


----------



## Sc4r3d

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Sc4r3d, interesting setup. It almost reminds me of a Antec P180 but in BTX form. What model is the Abit motherboard? I notice the fans right above the I/O with the nice Fatality logo. Those boards were pretty popular when they first came. My brothers Fatality board is stock...I wonder what he could get out of it









Good luck


ABIT AN8 Fatal1ty S939, she was a beauty in her day. I think I gave close to $200 bone for it, back then that was towards the top of the pay scale. I was able to oc the heck out of that CPU, I will have to find the old info on what it was.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Sc4r3d, interesting setup. It almost reminds me of a *Antec P180 but in BTX form*. What model is the Abit motherboard? I notice the fans right above the I/O with the nice Fatality logo. Those boards were pretty popular when they first came. My brothers Fatality board is stock...I wonder what he could get out of it









Good luck


It's a lot like those really beautiful Lian Li PC-V1xxx/PC-V2xxx cases (the original series, anyway). I believe the accepted term for such a motherboard mounting method is "Inverse ATX."







Like the P180 (used to have my gaming rig in one, until I switched to the Silverstone TJ09-BW), these particular Lian Li cases had a divider panel between the bottom-mounted PSU and the motherboard section.

By the way, I'll soon have a rig in a Lian Li PC-V1000B.







I've had a hardware crush on these cases forever. I'm looking forward to finally putting a good machine in one of these...


----------



## Sc4r3d

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


It's a lot like those really beautiful Lian Li PC-V1xxx/PC-V2xxx cases (the original series, anyway). I believe the accepted term for such a motherboard mounting method is "Inverse ATX."







Like the P180 (used to have my gaming rig in one, until I switched to the Silverstone TJ09-BW), these particular Lian Li cases had a divider panel between the bottom-mounted PSU and the motherboard section.

By the way, I'll soon have a rig in a Lian Li PC-V1000B.







I've had a hardware crush on these cases forever. I'm looking forward to finally putting a good machine in one of these...










That is one sexy motha... I really like that case, and that price isn't bad at all, esp for the word Lian Li on a little badge


----------



## pez

Ok, so I'm in need of some opinions. I'm about to recieve my budget for my x-mas list this year, and I want to know what size monitor I could be happy with. I originally wanted to go 24", but I'm thinking this would require me to get another 9800gt and SLI for it to be playable at native res (cod4, fallout3). Blitz told me though that I would be fine w/ a single 98gt at 1920x1200, but I think it would make my computer just crawl. So what I'm thinking is, either get a 1680x1050 w/ another card (or not if I don't need it?), or if my budget allows, a 24" and another card (again, if needed). I'm pretty sure the budget is going to be 200-300 bucks.


----------



## Sc4r3d

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Ok, so I'm in need of some opinions. I'm about to recieve my budget for my x-mas list this year, and I want to know what size monitor I could be happy with. I originally wanted to go 24", but I'm thinking this would require me to get another 9800gt and SLI for it to be playable at native res (cod4, fallout3). Blitz told me though that I would be fine w/ a single 98gt at 1920x1200, but I think it would make my computer just crawl. So what I'm thinking is, either get a 1680x1050 w/ another card (or not if I don't need it?), or if my budget allows, a 24" and another card (again, if needed). I'm pretty sure the budget is going to be 200-300 bucks.



For $200-300 bones its going to be VERY hard to find a quality 24" monitor. I would go with a pair of 9800's for sli and save up the difference and get a monitor down the road. I would hate for you to got a Monitor just b/c its 24" and not be happy with it, b/c in the end you will most likely be pissed.

That is just my .02


----------



## Pest

I would save up for a good quality 24" as your monitor will not need to be upgraded for years. So I agree with Sc4r3d in that respect. Save up so you can get both at once would be my idea, card prices might go down again by then.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Ok, so I'm in need of some opinions. I'm about to recieve my budget for my x-mas list this year, and I want to know what size monitor I could be happy with. I originally wanted to go 24", but I'm thinking this would require me to get another 9800gt and SLI for it to be playable at native res (cod4, fallout3). Blitz told me though that I would be fine w/ a single 98gt at 1920x1200, but I think it would make my computer just crawl. So what I'm thinking is, either get a 1680x1050 w/ another card (or not if I don't need it?), or if my budget allows, a 24" and another card (again, if needed). I'm pretty sure the budget is going to be 200-300 bucks.


my single 8800gt gives me great framerates in everything on my 22"

I would get a 24" if I were you, and stick with a single 98gt.


----------



## Blitz6804

Just for the record, Nate's Samsung 220WM is 1680x1050 native resolution.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


my single 8800gt gives me great framerates in everything on my 22"

I would get a 24" if I were you, and stick with a single 98gt.


What rates do you get in what games? You run tweaks? I think it'd be nice if a single 98gt could handle a 1680x1050.

For example, what's your minimum, avg, and max fps in cod4 at that res?

EDIT: Joe you've yet to put my 2.5ghz on the roster (http://www.overclock.net/4672110-post7760.html)







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


What rates do you get in what games? You run tweaks? I think it'd be nice if a single 98gt could handle a 1680x1050.

For example, what's your minimum, avg, and max fps in cod4 at that res?

EDIT: *Joe you've yet to put my 2.5ghz on the roster* (http://www.overclock.net/4672110-post7760.html)







.


pez, my apologies.









The roster has been updated.


----------



## N2Gaming

is 24" really that important. I mean how much can you do witha 24 over say a 22,21,20,19 ok maybe the 19 is limited to the resolutions but at what point do you just say fudge it and get a lcd tv. after all that's pretty much what a 24" is going to be any way right? Pez what ever you do make sure you get a good one with at least 4ms seek time so you don't get ghosting while your gaming.


----------



## pez

Yeah, i think I'm convinced that my 98gt can hold it's own with max settings on 1680x1050.


----------



## Blitz6804

*Is very tired of swapping rezzes and settings.*


----------



## HondaGuy

Anyone wanna sell there ASUS A8N32-SLI Deluxe???? looking for a replacement...My other one blew the power line on the motherboard, on the back side, sent it back to ASUS, they say they cant fix it...lol


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HondaGuy* 
Anyone wanna sell there ASUS A8N32-SLI Deluxe???? looking for a replacement...My other one blew the power line on the motherboard, on the back side, sent it back to ASUS, they say they cant fix it...lol

I do believe you're in the wrong section to be asking that kind of a question. For Sale / Wanted is a little further down on the main page







. However your reps aren't quite enough to post there....so I'd advise that you just keep your eyes peeled for one that may pop up for sale.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I do believe you're in the wrong section to be asking that kind of a question. For Sale / Wanted is a little further down on the main page







. However your reps aren't quite enough to post there....so I'd advise that you just keep your eyes peeled for one that may pop up for sale.

sorry for this pio but I asked this one the other day and got no repsponse. so here it is. Recently I was going to buy a A8N32 SLI Delux. is that the only 939 w/true 16 x 16 sli board utilizing the nforce4 chipset, or just the most common when they were in production?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
sorry for this pio but I asked this one the other day and got no repsponse. so here it is. Recently I was going to buy a A8N32 SLI Delux. is that the only 939 w/true 16 x 16 sli board utilizing the nforce4 chipset, or just the most common when they were in production?

No reason to be sorry....

The A8N32-SLI Deluxe is indeed the most common true 16x SLI motherboard for 939. There is however a DFI model that also features two 16x slots. I'm sure there are other models as well from other brands, you just gotta find them.

From an overclockers standpoint:
The A8N32-SLI Deluxe is absolutely a GREAT overclocking motherboard that is also quite easy to use. The BIOS functions are pretty well self-explanitory. The DFI model however will require a lot more tweaking than the Asus. However the DFI will generally yield higher results if the user is patient enough.

I honestly don't know the models of them anymore....but I know for a fact that DFI has one. I THINK Abit and MSI both have one as well.

There are also 32 lane Crossfire boards as well. The Asus A8R32-MVP Deluxe comes to mind there. Or theres also a DFI model (I do believe Joe is working with this one). Abit also has one...which Blitz has personal experience with. And again, I'm sure there are others as well.


----------



## N2Gaming

Cool. I'm just amazed by all the knowledge you guys constantly put forth with little effort. It makes me wish I was in the pc industry and working with them for many years now. thanks again.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Cool. I'm just amazed by all the knowledge you guys constantly put forth with little effort. It makes me wish I was in the pc industry and working with them for many years now. thanks again.









You'll pick it up quick enough







. When I came to this forum...I knew how to build and repair computers, all the good stuff. But I didn't REALLY know what the best bang per buck was. But boy, after keeping up here at OCN, I sure do know my stuff a lot better now!


----------



## Blitz6804

There is also the Sapphire Pure. Comes in 16x and 32x Crossfire flavors.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
You'll pick it up quick enough







. When I came to this forum...I knew how to build and repair computers, all the good stuff. But I didn't REALLY know what the best bang per buck was. But boy, after keeping up here at OCN, I sure do know my stuff a lot better now!

Thanks for the vote of confindence.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Cool. I'm just amazed by all the knowledge you guys constantly put forth with little effort. It makes me wish I was in the pc industry and working with them for many years now. thanks again.










No you don't! All my 80's and 90's Knowledge is not on ly less than worthless, I wish I could forget it to make room for the new stuff!


----------



## TestECull

Hrm...X1900XT is epic winrarz in my box...Anyone hear from Mike, on that overclock of his?


----------



## Blitz6804

I found this in my travels, the AMD Fusion for Gaming Utility. Supposedly, it works on ALL AMD processors. I personally have not tried it yet, but it is a cool idea. It would automate system tray clearing.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I found this in my travels, the AMD Fusion for Gaming Utility. Supposedly, it works on ALL AMD processors. I personally have not tried it yet, but it is a cool idea. It would automate system tray clearing.


Pretty neat idea Blitz. I'm not too fond of running Beta software on my rig...but I'll give it a go once its final







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Does any one have any thoughts on the new phenom II prcecessors due out on Jan 9, 2009. I was thinking of running the BE Phenom II in my BNB project if my mobo will support it. From what I understand the Phenom II will be presented in two flavors the am3 ver. and am2+ ver. They will offer a BE in a am2+ ver. with a slower ram controller. I know this is s939 club but I just find this club to have for the most part a lot of knowledge. I found this and a discussion here about them and was wondering if any one knowsw of these?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Does any one have any thoughts on the new phenom II prcecessors due out on Jan 9, 2009. I was thinking of running the BE Phenom II in my BNB project if my mobo will support it. From what I understand the Phenom II will be presented in two flavors the am3 ver. and am2+ ver. They will offer a BE in a am2+ ver. with a slower ram controller. I know this is s939 club but I just find this club to have for the most part a lot of knowledge. I found this and a discussion here about them and was wondering if any one knowsw of these?


Well there isn't much out yet concerning the new chips, but I was to upgrade in the next 6-12 months I would upgrade to AM3 (if motherboards are available then) From what I can tell the AM2+ will be just as OC'able as the AM3 except the use DDR2 on the AM2+. So why not upgrade to the AM3 if it's available?









My hope is that there will be a nice DFI Mobo out there when the time comes for AM3.


----------



## JEmmaB

From RebelsHaven:

Quote:

Socket AM3 Processors & Chipsets

Specifications:
Type PGA-ZIF
Chip form factors PGA
Contacts 940
Bus Protocol
FSB 200 MHz System clock
2 GHz HyperTransport 3.0
Voltage range Split CPU/Memory controller voltages
Processors DDR3 capable Phenom series, Athlon X2, Sempron LE
Opteron (for 1P servers)

Socket AM3, which will be used in future AMD CPU releases, is a CPU socket designed by AMD for desktop processors, including the performance, mainstream and value segments. It has an expected release in late 2008, as a replacement for Socket AM2/AM2+.

AMD has confirmed that AM3 processors will work on AM2 motherboards. However, AM2 processors will not work on AM3 motherboards because AM2 processors lack the DDR3 memory controller. Socket AM3 will be able to run either DDR2 or DDR3 SDRAM memory [1], but not both on the same motherboard; DDR3 runs at higher clock frequencies while drawing less power than DDR2 memory, however it is currently much more expensive. Therefore, users of Socket AM2 motherboards will be able to upgrade to AM3 processors, without replacing the motherboard or memory.

Socket AM3 is assumed to be introduced with AMD's next generation processors based on the 45 nm fabrication process that will be release in December 2008 (processor only), and the full AM3 platform (processor & motherboards) on January 11, 2009.

NVIDIA prepping MCP82 chipset for AMD's Deneb CPUs

There's been much speculation from the tech press and analysts over NVIDIA's plans in the chipset business going forward. Some have speculated that NVIDIA plans to exit the chipset market, in part because there's so little info out there on their upcoming nForce product plans. Motherboard makers are notorious for leaking info on upcoming products months in advance of launch, so the lack of any new chipset info from NVIDIA was interpreted as a sign that nothing was in the works.

Late yesterday however Expreview got their hands on a leaked NVIDIA roadmap outlining the company's plans for AMD's 45-nm Deneb Phenom CPUs. According to the roadmap, NVIDIA's MCP82 chipset will come with 2 SKUs: one supporting 3-Way SLI (MCP82-S1) and presumably a cheaper SKU limited to 2-Way SLI support (MCP82-S2). Like nForce 780a, MCP82 will ship with an integrated DX10 graphics core capable of handling 2D and video graphics duties to conserve power, while the chipset will also be the first NVIDIA product to support AMD's ACC technology for improved overclocking.

According to the article, engineering samples have already been sent to motherboard makers, with full production slated for January 2009.


----------



## N2Gaming

thanks GO & JE, It sounds like I might get lucky and be able to use one w/out upgrading mobo/ram but we'll have to waite and see if the Nforce 590 sli series chipset will support Phenom II's. I don't really see the need for it at the moment but things always change, games always get better requiring more power and the world keeps turning.


----------



## thlnk3r

Jemma, thanks for the detail info. I was a bit curious about nVidia's plans in regards to AM3 compatible motherboards. Nice to see the MCP82 will have a integrated graphics core. Not sure why the article said "2 GHz HyperTransport 3.0". HT 3.0 is suppose to be 2.6Ghz from what I understand. Perhaps it was just a typo









Thanks again!


----------



## JEmmaB

From hwbot:

Quote:



AMD Phenom II next best thing?

At the AMD event in Austin, Texas, the Finnish overclocking legend Macci, who works for AMD, has been able to overclock the second edition of the AMD Phenom processor to 5GHz and more &#8230; on LN2! Sources tell us that there's litterally no coldbug, which was one of the biggest drawbacks in AMD overclocking since the Athlon64. Is AMD back in the high-end overclocking game? I certainly hope so!

http://www.nordichardware.com/news,8389.html

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=208369

http://www.ocxtreme.org/forumenus/showthread.php?t=4207


----------



## pez

Ok guys, I've started OCing my CPU again. It's up to 2.55 but I haven't done a stability test, though all games I've played haven't had any problems and I've been running it at this for the past 24 hours straight. If I go up to 2.6, it starts to act strange. What would you guys suggest about that? Maybe loosening up my timings a bit? I was hoping I wouldn't have to take off my 1:1 cpu/ram ratio.

EDIT: To prove that 3DMark06 is so CPU biased. My 3DMark score went from 9091 to 9221 just from 50Mhz.


----------



## fshizl

anybody know of any place where i can get a 939 dual core... ive got the 3700 but its fading in power with all these new applications running at the same time


----------



## N2Gaming

here is a opteron 180 for $169.00
and of course you could always shop for one here


----------



## Blitz6804

I was talking with Pez in AIM. It seems that the RAM voltage is only at the SPD-set 2.5 V. Mushkin Redlines call for 2.6-2.9, I personally ran them with 2.8 V.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


If I go up to 2.6, it starts to act strange. What would you guys suggest about that? Maybe loosening up my timings a bit? I was hoping I wouldn't have to take off my 1:1 cpu/ram ratio.


Pez, sounds like Blitz has you covered but it would also be helpful if you included some CPU-Z screenshots for us. If you can include each tab that would be great. Perhaps there is another setting or two that needs adjustment.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

His RAM is currently running at 3-3-3-8-2T @ DDR 520. CPU is 260x10 @ 1.35 V. (Posted since he is rebooting.)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


His RAM is currently running at 3-3-3-8-2T @ DDR 520. CPU is 260x10 @ 1.35 V. (Posted since he is rebooting.)


Blitz, thanks but it still would be nice to see some CPU-Z screen shots









What core is he running? What's his HT frequency? ect

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JEmmaB*


From RebelsHaven:











 3 way sli BUT......1x16 , 2x8,







why cant they make it so all 3 slots run @ 16x?


----------



## pez

Here you are sir:

I tried running 2.6. 2.6 would start, but if I even tried to run a Vista Rating test, it would freeze when it got to the CPU part. I've tried the 2.5V, 2.8V, and 2.9V and they all failed, so I'm back at 2.8. I have also just changed my Trp from 3 to it's default; 2. I also tried changing the vcore on the cpu up to 1.4V just to make sure it wasn't the CPU that was the problem. 2.55 has run benchmarks and all though just fine. (Though I haven't tested it w/ orthos).


----------



## Blitz6804

That would require 48 lanes BlackOmega. As you see, the MCP82-S1 only has 35 lanes.


----------



## N2Gaming

good question. I'm wondering why they do not have at least 36 lanes for true 16x16. but it is a start to a new platform with grfx built intothe chip. So give it some time to see if they make it better or drop the ball.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
That would require 48 lanes BlackOmega. As you see, the MCP82-S1 only has 35 lanes.

Blitz, I think he's wondering why the board isn't 3-way SLI with all the PCIe lanes being 16x.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
3 way sli BUT......1x16 , 2x8,







why cant they make it so all 3 slots run @ 16x?









Omega, perhaps it's a bus limitation on the chipset itself? PCIe uses a serial interface(point to point), so each device has it's on bandwidth. I can't imagine PCIe being the problem in this case. Good question indeed.

Pez, try dropping your HT multiplier and see if that helps. Right now you are 21Mhz overclocked...not a huge deal but it may help to drop that down a bit just to see what happens. Changing it to 3x would bring it down to 765Mhz which is completely fine. There's hardly any performance issues until you hit 680-650Mhz. Have you also try applying some voltage to your chipset? Did you test each components maximum frequency? Also remember the Manchester core is extremely voltage hungry. Most of the overclocks I see are averaging within the 2.6 - 2.8Ghz range (Manchester).

Good luck


----------



## pez

If I remember correctly the NB or maybe it was SB is set at 1.52V. What would be safe to up it to (though I'll make this a last resort setting). I'm going to be trying these a bit later as I need to do some school work as well...if I could stop procrastinating







.


----------



## Slappa

Alas guys

I am finally letting go of the rest of my S939 parts! I just wanted to give a goodbye to the platform, as it was a classic!

I can no longer keep a second computer running. If you guys are interested in my S939 parts check my for sale thread as listed in my sig.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
If I remember correctly the NB or maybe it was SB is set at 1.52V. What would be safe to up it to (though I'll make this a last resort setting). I'm going to be trying these a bit later as I need to do some school work as well...if I could stop procrastinating







.

Pez, I've seen some chipsets that required voltage at 240HTT so in your case this may help. It's completely safe. Just make sure you have proper cooling on your board. Having sufficient airflow in your case is also very helpful. I was lucky enough to not have to apply any voltage at 300HTT but I'm extremely glad because the nForce 4 runs a little warm









Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Thlnk3r: to make tri-SLI run at 16x each, do not you need 48 lanes at least?

Slappa: we are sorry to see you go. I hope you will stay on board as a nostalgic at least?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Thlnk3r: to make tri-SLI run at 16x each, do not you need 48 lanes at least?

Blitz, yes that is correct but we're wondering why the motherboard manufactures aren't making these boards (MCP82) with 48 lanes.

Good luck


----------



## Slappa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Thlnk3r: to make tri-SLI run at 16x each, do not you need 48 lanes at least?

Slappa: we are sorry to see you go. I hope you will stay on board as a nostalgic at least?

Yes, although I was never put in the member list as someone forgot to add me, because i know i posted to join







.

So please add me to the Nostalgic list w/ a Athlon 4200+ X2


----------



## Blitz6804

I found out why you were never added... we never got a CPU-Z screenshot or validation link. If you want one for posterity, please send one now. Else, I will just add you as a nostalgic sans one. Join date should rightly be 08-04-08.

Thlnk3r: I would reason it is poor thinking on nVidia's part. The next generation of AM3 nVidia chipsets should have 48 lanes or more. I want to know if the new AMD chipsets can do full 16x tri/quadfire. At present, the 790FX can only do 16x/16x/4x trifire or 16x/8x/8x. Quadfire is either 16x/16x or 8x/8x/8x/8x.


----------



## Slappa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I found out why you were never added... we never got a CPU-Z screenshot or validation link. If you want one for posterity, please send one now. Else, I will just add you as a nostalgic sans one. Join date should rightly be 08-04-08.

Thlnk3r: I would reason it is poor thinking on nVidia's part. The next generation of AM3 nVidia chipsets should have 48 lanes or more. I want to know if the new AMD chipsets can do full 16x tri/quadfire. At present, the 790FX can only do 16x/16x/4x trifire or 16x/8x/8x. Quadfire is either 16x/16x or 8x/8x/8x/8x.


Awww. You know I really really would, but it's all in pieces now, I disassembled the old rig. Could the pictures in my for sale thread count as my validation? Haha


----------



## RallyMaster

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=450527

Screenshot:


----------



## Blitz6804

Well Slappa, a nostalgic does not require validation, I was just curious if you had one on the record.

Welcome aboard RallyMaster. I have seen you lurking in the Currently Active Users on and off for the past few days now and have been hoping you would join us soon. I will be adding you to the off-site roster now.


----------



## Slappa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Well Slappa, a nostalgic does not require validation, I was just curious if you had one on the record.

Welcome aboard RallyMaster. I have seen you lurking in the Currently Active Users on and off for the past few days now and have been hoping you would join us soon. I will be adding you to the off-site roster now.


Naw I didn't keep any of my screenies!

But yeah, put me down for nostalgic, that would be great!


----------



## BlackOmega

Well that makes me wonder about the chipset. Why woudl I rush out and get a new chip+board some some pretty costly ram and get mediocre results, relatively speaking. Just wondering why they cant use some of the technology they already have that supports 2x16 &1x8. Its seems like theyre taking some steps back not forward. Hopefully the ATi based boards that come out for it will be able to handle 3x16 slots. 
i mean isnt that the whole point of SLI? So you can run 2 cards and have spectacular results. Or if youre like me get 2 lower end cards SLI em and get the similar results to 1 high end card. And if I could run 3x16 then it would probably surpass the performance of 1 high end card and still cost less. they need to get their act together. It seems like theyre AMD support is half hearted, I mean the new i7 can run at least @ 2x16. Nvidia, intel fanboys?
-Ω.


----------



## RallyMaster

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Welcome aboard RallyMaster. I have seen you lurking in the Currently Active Users on and off for the past few days now and have been hoping you would join us soon. I will be adding you to the off-site roster now.


Thanks for adding me! Definitely glad to see all these folks running 939s still


----------



## Blitz6804

So added Slappa. The roster is already updated. I do not suppose you remember what speed you ran it at? Stock if I remember your motherboard correctly?

BlackOmega: Yeah, I have never been a large fan of nVidia. This is part of the reason I suppose. However, remember that a PCI-E 2.0 8x is the same speed as PCI-E 1.1 16x, and very few cards, if any, saturate either.


----------



## Slappa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


So added Slappa. The roster is already updated. I do not suppose you remember what speed you ran it at? Stock if I remember your motherboard correctly?

BlackOmega: Yeah, I have never been a large fan of nVidia.  This is part of the reason I suppose. However, remember that a PCI-E 2.0 8x is the same speed as PCI-E 1.1 16x, and very few cards, if any, saturate either.


Yep most of the time. However I could get it up to 2.42GHz @ Stock Vcore with software overclocking. I remember that clearly.


----------



## Blitz6804

Joe is updating the roster now according to his user status. Slappa: next roster update on the off-site, it will have you down at 220x11.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Joe is updating the roster now according to his user status. Slappa: next roster update on the off-site, it will have you down at 220x11.


What are you, my nanny?









As my personal stalker







Blitz has said, our roster is now updated.

Please welcome our two newest members, RallyMaster and Slappa (a Nostalgic member).









Personally speaking, I firmly believe that multi-GPU setups are not really necessary for most folks. With the resolutions most people run, a single card that is reasonably good (that is, any current mid-tier card, or even some older high end cards -- TestECull's X1950XT card comes to mind) is enough to have a good gaming performance. The cost-to-benefit ratio of multi-GPU setups is very poor.

As I wrote in my OCN Blog recently (click here for my shameless plug), you pay 100% more for another card, but get far less than 100% more performance. Some people say that the second card is there just to provide power for the eye candy; if that's the case, then my solution is to simply just be judicious in your expenditure and get as good a single card as you possibly can at the outset.

Spending once is always better than spending twice, in my book.

In case you all wonder, yes, I've run both Crossfire and SLI in the past. In my opinion, the best benefit was in the brief fillip of elation I felt when I saw the benchmark scores (3DMark0x); in-game, I'm sure there was a bump in FPS as well, but since I concentrate not on counting FPS but in *playing the game*, I never ever noticed any differences between single-card vs. multi-card.

Of course, the highest resolution I ever ran with a multi-GPU setup was 1440 x 900, so of course in my case it never made sense...







But that's more than enough to keep me happy.


----------



## Blitz6804

As someone who runs 1920x1200, I can tell you that a single 3850 is NOT powerful enough to drive it. Nor was my prior X1950 XGE. Nor was my X1600. Now, if I had the money for an HD 4870, I likely would have gotten one. However, at the time, a pair of HD 3850s were cheaper. Given I need to buy a new power supply anyway, who knows. It might have been cheaper to wait 3 months and gotten the 4870, but I do not know.

Joe: Check your email.


----------



## Biomech

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=112063

















Don't think I posted in this thread, but, here is the highest clock I was able to get on this rig. It is on it's way out to make room for a 775 setup and back to air cooling.


----------



## Blitz6804

Welcome aboard Biomech. Do you wish to be a nostalgic member, or do you intend to keep your 939 running in some form? Do you have a validation of your Toledo*as well, or only your San Diego? Why are you going back to air from water?

*X2 4800+ as in sig.


----------



## Biomech

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=125509









Might help if I add the current CPU. Going to 775 because of a good deal on parts and step up in performance from current system. Water is fine, but I want to slim down the rig again. I don't game on PC anymore. The 939 parts will be sold off when my order arrives. Nostalgic if good!


----------



## Blitz6804

Biomech, you are now officially a Nostalgic member on the off-site roster. Welcome aboard!

Joe will be adding you to the on-site when he is done playing with his nephews, possibly as late as tomorrow morning.


----------



## N2Gaming

I have a question regarding CPU-Z validation. I run cpuz and hit f7 to save the cvf file. then I go online w/a diff pc to validate I enter my name email and cvf file and it get this and I don't get any email?







am I doing it wrong do I have to be online with the pc I'm trying to validate or am I missing a step?


----------



## Blitz6804

You should be able to upload the CVF file from any computer. Make sure you have the email address typed correctly and you have hit the "publish online" checkbox if it is not already checked.


----------



## N2Gaming

thank you, I did that and ]this is what shows up. Sorry it's hard to see. So this is it pasted

File cpuz_3.cvf upload : *OK*
*Please update to CPU-Z V1.45+*

I'm using ver 1.48 & 1.46


----------



## Blitz6804

I think your link is broken. Try renaming the file not to have the underscore.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
thank you, I did that and ]this is what shows up. Sorry it's hard to see. So this is it pasted

File cpuz_3.cvf upload : *OK*
*Please update to CPU-Z V1.45+*

I'm using ver 1.48 & 1.46

N2Gaming, try not renaming the file at all and see if that works. Make sure the upload path is correct as well. How are you transferring the file over from one computer to the other?

Good luck

RallyMaster and Biomech, welcome to the club


----------



## N2Gaming

well after I have the file which by the way does not have any -'s in it just cpuz.cvf I save it to my usb thumb drive and then try to load it from there. at the validation screen I get 3 options, name email cvf file. I browse the file, select it, do check the post on line check box and that is what I get.


----------



## Blitz6804

Thlnk3r is suggesting that you save the file as the default cpuz.cvf rather than saving it as cpuz_3.cvf.


----------



## N2Gaming

sillyavatarer my file was already saved as cpuz.cvr from the get go but for some reason the upload changes it or does something I don't understand. I did not change the name it is already cpuz.cvf So I'm going to try pluggin it in to the web and see if that helps.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


well after I have the file which by the way does not have any -'s in it just cpuz.cvf I save it to my usb thumb drive and then try to load it from there. at the validation screen I get 3 options, name email cvf file. I browse the file, select it, do check the post on line check box and that is what I get.










N2Gaming, are you absolutely positive that you're running the latest 1.48 version of CPU-Z?

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

yes I'm positive I'm running ver 1.48. connecting it to the web produced better results. look in my signature and you will see Black N Blue is now validated.

Edit: thanks for trying to help. I'm trying to learn as much about this validation as possible and was hoping I could do it w/o being on the computer that I want to validate. I just need a wireless routher so I can have a whole other ball of was to figure out. I have never used wireless nics or even a wired router so I just might have my work cut out for me. any suggestions as to a good reliable yet economical wireless router solution?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


any suggestions as to a good reliable yet economical wireless router solution?


N2Gaming, price wise it may be a little high but I run the Linksys WRT54G. Here is the model I purchased off of newegg: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16833124010. I have not had any problems with my version (version 5). For troubleshooting purposes I have hardly ever had to power cycle the router.

Here are the wireless cards that I purchase: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...bye%20wireless. The software utility is eh ok but I mainly picked these up because of the price and the WPA2 support.

Hope that helps


----------



## Blitz6804

I am taking the time now to welcome BlackOmega to the club. Off-site roster going live so amended shortly.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, price wise it may be a little high but I run the Linksys WRT54G. Here is the model I purchased off of newegg: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16833124010. I have not had any problems with my version (version 5). For troubleshooting purposes I have hardly ever had to power cycle the router.

Here are the wireless cards that I purchase: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...bye%20wireless. The software utility is eh ok but I mainly picked these up because of the price and the WPA2 support.

Hope that helps









I was thinking about getting the linksis router. looks like it has 4 hard wired connections. how many wireless connections is it capable of handling. oh I'm getting this for free well I had to pay shipping. do you think it will work on my dfi sli dr board and with the linksys?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Biomech, welcome to our Club as a Nostalgic member!









And to BlackOmega, thank you as well for joining us.


----------



## Mr Pink57

Add me.

Second rig is a Opty 146 @ 2.9ghz (still may have the cpu-z on it).

pink


----------



## Blitz6804

Mr Pink57: I can add you as a Nostalgic for now. As soon as you find the CPU-Z validation, we can upgrade you to an active member if you wish. I see you use your 939 as a mobile gamer. (At least, "Lan rig" seems to indicate that.)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I was thinking about getting the linksis router. looks like it has 4 hard wired connections. how many wireless connections is it capable of handling. oh I'm getting this for free well I had to pay shipping. do you think it will work on my dfi sli dr board and with the linksys?


N2Gaming, the WRT54G allows up to 253 DHCP users. The device you linked us to will work (both devices are 802.11g) all though you are limited to the USB 2.0 specification. I hardly doubt it will effect performance though. I have a USB wireless device in my laptop and it gets identical download speeds as my machine does.

Welcome BlackOmega to the club









Good luck guys


----------



## JEmmaB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I have a question regarding CPU-Z validation. I run cpuz and hit f7 to save the cvf file. then I go online w/a diff pc to validate I enter my name email and cvf file and it get this and I don't get any email?







am I doing it wrong do I have to be online with the pc I'm trying to validate or am I missing a step?


Check the system date on the PC you are using; chances are the date it is not set to present.


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks. I should get the wireless usb nic any day now. I found a thread someware about being able to use the wireless nic & antenna from the m2n32 sli deluxe in any computer w/a 10 pin usb port. I might try that down the road if I ever upgrade and sell one of my m2n32's







I found that linksys HERE for $34.99 but it's referbished so I don't know if I should even take the chance since I have never installed one and don't want to run into problems with out knowing if it's the router or how I'm trying to set up all the ports, dhcp etc.

hey new members Bio, BO and Mr Pink. welcome to the club









thanks JE, I think your probably right. my normal interntet rig has the right date. but I have been palying with BNB and the clear cmos switch mod and just checked the date on it and it was set to jan 6th 2008. I just changed it and will repeat my first steps to see if that was it. I'll let every one know here in a minute.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Amazingly, we've picked up yet another member: Please welcome our newest Nostalgic member, Mr Pink57!









Y'all are making me and Blitz work extra hard just on roster updates today!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Amazingly, we've picked up yet another member: Please welcome our newest Nostalgic member, Mr Pink57!









Y'all are making me and Blitz work extra hard just on roster updates today!










But isn't that a good thing?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Amazingly, we've picked up yet another member: Please welcome our newest Nostalgic member, Mr Pink57!









Y'all are making me and Blitz work extra hard just on roster updates today!










lol hey evry one join ocn as a alius and add your alius to the s939 club. just kidn man. that would suck.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I found that linksys HERE for $34.99 but it's referbished so I don't know if I should even take the chance since I have never installed one and don't want to run into problems with out knowing if it's the router or how I'm trying to set up all the ports, dhcp etc.


N2Gaming, a refurb probably works just as good as the retail. At worst you may have to reflash the device with a different or newer firmware.

Welcome Mr Pink57


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Amazingly, we've picked up yet another member: Please welcome our newest Nostalgic member, Mr Pink57!









Y'all are making me and Blitz work extra hard just on roster updates today!










Am I the only one who notices memberships come in groups? We can have two weeks of nothing, and then five new members in the span of a 24-hour period.

And Joe, check your email.


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks to the both of you think3r and JE it tunrs out JE hit the nail on the head. if the date is wrong that will create that problem with validation. I checked it out and was able to transfer the saved cvf file and validate w/o having the validated pc connected. Thanks again.

"It ask's too many questions or it will never learn"


----------



## JEmmaB

Welcome new members!









N2Gaming; glad to help.


----------



## BlackOmega

Hey thanx guys.







Check out my new avatar


----------



## N2Gaming

YOWSA SHE'S A LOOKER!!!












































Hey BlackOmega, what voltage is required to run that opty 180 @ 2.9 GHz


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


YOWSA SHE'S A LOOKER!!!












































Hey BlackOmega, what voltage is required to run that opty 180 @ 2.9 GHz


 I dont recall now, I think I had it a 1.40v. I had to dial it back to 2.8 because of heat issues, I need to get a new heatsink that actually works.








Thermaltake V1


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Am I the only one who notices memberships come in groups? We can have two weeks of nothing, and then five new members in the span of a 24-hour period.

And Joe, check your email.

I think it's also because the thread ends up with a lot of popularity putting it on the latest discussions board which everyone can see. That's what I look at most of the time when I first come on the site.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I dont recall now, I think I had it a 1.40v. I had to dial it back to 2.8 because of heat issues, I need to get a new heatsink that actually works.

BlackOmega, have you checked out the surface of the Thermaltake V1 to see if it's in good condition? Perhaps it's concave/convex or maybe even scratched. That could be hurting your cooling. Have you thought about lapping the surface? I'm almost positive you have the available resources









Good luck buddy


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I dont recall now, I think I had it a 1.40v. I had to dial it back to 2.8 because of heat issues, I need to get a new heatsink that actually works.








Thermaltake V1









I'm seing that heat is a problem with these 110 watt cpu's and nforce 4 chipsets. does anyone have a good free solution to monitor my temps on the dfi nf4 boards???


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I'm seing that heat is a problem with these 110 watt cpu's and nforce 4 chipsets. does anyone have a good free solution to monitor my temps on the dfi nf4 boards???

N2Gaming, I use Everest to monitor the temperatures on my DFI motherboard. You can download this by going here: http://www.lavalys.com/products/over...&ps=UE&lang=en. It shows the System and PWM temperature as well.

Both my cooler and processor have lapped surfaces but I'm using a cooler that was designated for a single core processor. I'm having good luck with it so far. The 110TDP is a tad on the warm side but a lot of the newer coolers shouldn't have cooling problems. If the surface is horribly bad then that's a different story.

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, have you checked out the surface of the Thermaltake V1 to see if it's in good condition? Perhaps it's concave/convex or maybe even scratched. That could be hurting your cooling. Have you thought about lapping the surface? I'm almost positive you have the available resources









Good luck buddy









I'm pretty sure it's concave. Last time I tried to reseat it it only contacted on the edges. I used a fairly thin coat of TIM though. Thin enough where I could actually see the print on the top of the CPU, mind you that was suggested by Thermaltakes tech support. The first time I seated it it did fully contact. I used a thicker coat though.

Yeah I have the available resources but at the price I paid for it, I expect it to be prefect, well at least not messed up on the absolute MOST important part of it. I think Im going to go with the Coolermaster Gemini 2. It not only cools the CPU but the mobo/ram as well. I read a couple of reviews and it did REALLY well. Almost as well as the Ultra Chill tec. It was within 1-2* on everything. Which is VERY impressive. And the best part about the review I read is they actually tested it in a case not with a mobo screwed to a board (tomshardware). And they not only monitored CPU temps but case temps, and mobo temps etc.
Granted its not pretty, BUT itll keep my rig cool to the point I can actually put the side cover back on and not worry about going to 65*c and 50% load.

Even the stock AMD cooler with the tornado on it does a MUCH better job than the thermaltake. Newegg still wont post my last review. I slammed it pretty hard







I going to see if newegg will exchange it for me with out making me take the 15% hit. As it did not perform as advertised.


----------



## Blitz6804

Not pretty? I think the GeminII is really attractive. I seem to recall a club member having one; I will investigate.

Found it: TestECull.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Not pretty? I think the GeminII is really attractive. I seem to recall a club member having one; I will investigate.

Found it: TestECull.

Relatively speaking of course......


----------



## Blitz6804

Reminds me of my Zalman CNPS9500LED which I sold to Xyro. Both are bright copper with radial fins in heat pipes. The big disadvantage to them compared to an SI-128 or a GeminII is that the fins are open as opposed to in a box. I cut easily. VERY easily.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I used to run a GeminII a while ago. Straight out of the box it works pretty well; I wonder how much better (if at all) the performance might have been had I decided to lap it. I think much depends on the fans you use on it. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to use any of my ultra-powerful fans on it, so I don't have any definitive data to support my theory.

It's not as good as, say, a Thermalright Ultra 120/Ultra 120 Extreme or a SI-128SE, but it's not awful either. It kept an Opteron 170 @ 2.72GHz to around 57-60 degrees C at the cores at full load, in a bedroom that got as warm as 32 degrees C. VCore was around 1.375V.

I may reuse this HSF in the future and test how well it responds to improved fan performance and lapping.


----------



## Blitz6804

Or you can lap it and ship to me as a Christmas gift old buddy old pal?

I will be away from OCN for an hour or so. (I hope.) My OP750 came, I hope it gets rid of my "Crossfail" as XyroTR1 says.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I'm pretty sure it's concave. Last time I tried to reseat it it only contacted on the edges. I used a fairly thin coat of TIM though. Thin enough where I could actually see the print on the top of the CPU, mind you that was suggested by Thermaltakes tech support. The first time I seated it it did fully contact. I used a thicker coat though.

Yeah I have the available resources but at the price I paid for it, I expect it to be prefect, well at least not messed up on the absolute MOST important part of it. I think Im going to go with the Coolermaster Gemini 2.

BlackOmega, if you have time I'd still lap the Thermaltake. You never know, the results may be surprising and you may end up saving money. I do understand though when you say "I expect it to be perfect". It almost makes me wonder how well these coolers are manufactured and how much time is actually spent making sure the base is some what decent.

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, if you have time I'd still lap the Thermaltake. You never know, the results may be surprising and you may end up saving money. I do understand though when you say "I expect it to be perfect". It almost makes me wonder how well these coolers are manufactured and how much time is actually spent making sure the base is some what decent.

Good luck









Hmmm... I might, but I wonder if I can return it after I lap it if it doesnt improve.... I bet it works great on a 775, which Im assuming is physically smaller. Aside from that Im not too thrilled about the precarious way it attaches to the board. No to mention its a freakin PAIN to get it centered just right so you have the most possible contact as it doesn't cover the whole CPU.

And as for the quality, this is the second one they sent me. The first one was all sorts of messed up. Had to RMA. And just like everything else its probably made in China, hell I bet its copper coated lead.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
And as for the quality, this is the second one they sent me. The first one was all sorts of messed up. Had to RMA. And just like everything else its probably made in China, hell I bet its copper coated lead.









BlackOmega, wow I didn't know this was your second one. Perhaps a RMA may be the only answer then.

I wouldn't be surprised if it was copper coated lead. The base may actually be solid copper.

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Here's the review I read about the Gemini II. Considering it did almost as well as a ultra chill tec, at less than half the price, is very impressive. Mind you the fans that they used, if Im not mistaken, were only 49CFM each, which is low IMO. Id use a couple of Antec 79CFM fans, or the thunderblades. Then with a scytheblade Kaze exhaust fan should keep the rig cool as a cucumber.


----------



## thlnk3r

BlackOmega, if possible it would be very nice if you did your own review on this cooler. I wouldn't mind seeing the results in conjunction with a S939 processor.

How does anyone fit this cooler in their case? Is there room for a discrete video card?









Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

BlackOmega: Higher CFMs do not always equate to higher cooling potential, as Frostytech proved with the Sycthe Orochi and a Mil-spec impeller. For a 12Âº C improvement over the stock fan (14.5Âº versus 26.2Âº C) they increased the noise output from 27.8 dBA to 87.4 dBA.

If you wish to read about the actual Sycthe Orochi, feel free to do so. It is an interesting cooler in my opinion.


----------



## pez

My AC Freezer 64 Pro is dude for tommorow. So happy







.


----------



## N2Gaming

BlackOmega, another thing you might consider. make sure the heat pipes have as close to a verticle position as possible rather then a horazontal position. the liquid inside the heat tubes works better if the tubes are arranged in a verticle position. I think it might be explained here.


----------



## MikeV_E36

woot I leave you guys for 3 days and there's +20pages of new posts lol. had to catch up with some uni projects. anyway still waiting for the hd4870 and the power supply to come. maybe tomorrow if I get lucky... pez I see you're interested in 22''+ monitors, I could help you with any fps readings if you want as soon as my card arrives!

p.s. my pc is still unstable, although it passed orthos for 12+ hours, today morning was turned off







. Maybe I should wait for the new psu before i get to conclusions..


----------



## pez

Heh, yeah, you'll have a much better card than me though







.


----------



## MikeV_E36

lol true








In general I'm totally satisfied with my 22" monitor. It has 2ms latency and games looked amazing with my 8800gts @ 1680x1050


----------



## pez

Oh, you're using a 8800GTS? G92? I have my card clocked to about the performance of a GTS. What rates are you getting in cod4 at 1680x1050? What other games do you play?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
p.s. my pc is still unstable, although it passed orthos for 12+ hours, today morning was turned off







. Maybe I should wait for the new psu before i get to conclusions..

MikeV, if the power supply was the culprit then it should have turned off during the Orthos stress test. Perhaps you had some electrical noise or a brown out that caused your computer to turn off. Either way I hope the new arrival performs better then the current "Qtek".

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

I wanted to get two xfx 8800 GTS cards but oh well.

I'm wondering if any one plays HL2. I'm having a problem and hopefully it's an easy fix. I hate calling CSR's for support becuase half the time they don't know their a$$ from a hole in the ground and once in a while you get one that you can't get to shut up cause all he/she wants to do is show off how much they know. I often think to myself while using CSR's, not that it's a bad thing but come on let's fix my problem so you can help other paying customers like myself.

So here is the problem. I load HL2 from w/in steam window and I get the loading screen and it stop's there. my pc stops responding. cntl+alt+del has no effect. The only thing I can do at this point is hit the reset button or sleep button. So I choose sleep. Then I wake it up write away and Cntrl+Alt+Del and end program. Then I get back to my other apps things of the sort. Has anyone had this problem and what did you do to fix it?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


BlackOmega: Higher CFMs do not always equate to higher cooling potential, as Frostytech proved with the Sycthe Orochi and a Mil-spec impeller. For a 12Âº C improvement over the stock fan (14.5Âº versus 26.2Âº C) they increased the noise output from 27.8 dBA to 87.4 dBA.

If you wish to read about the actual Sycthe Orochi, feel free to do so. It is an interesting cooler in my opinion.



Thats not really a comparison. The heatsink itself is huge so the actual surface area that gets heat transferred away is also huge. So therefore a lot of air movement is not required.

I think a better comparison for airflow vs. cooling performance is a stock CPU cooler. Kind of like what I did. Stock AMD cooler with a Tornado fan. While I dont know the CFM output of the stock fan, Im going to assume since its a stock unit is intended for home PC's itll be quiet and therefore not move a lot of air. So lets say it moves even 50cfm out a 80mm fan. the Tornado moves 90cfm @ 5700 rpm. Mine runs @ 6136. So on the conservative side lets say it moves 95cfm.
Stock fan and cooler temps were cpu 35*c @ idle and motherboard 33/c (with no overclock). With the Tornado both idle between 28-30*c dependent on ambient (400mhz OC). And in a 24*c room idle is 29*c. Now under load, the stock fan and heatsink cant support any sort of overclock @ 100% load for very long before the temps go through the roof (65*c). Literally about a minute, if that. 
Now with the tornado fan 100% load @ 400mhz OC it barely reaches 59*c running the FPU test in SnM and can sustain a stress test for an hour and a half. So in this instance as you see, CFM plays a huge role in cooling. Only downside is the fan runs @ 55dB. 
But since my rig sits in my living room and its shared with my wife and childern, that is unacceptable.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


BlackOmega, another thing you might consider. make sure the heat pipes have as close to a verticle position as possible rather then a horazontal position. the liquid inside the heat tubes works better if the tubes are arranged in a verticle position. I think it might be explained here.


 That was an interesting read.








It reinforces my thought about the Gemini cooler. Because of the way it mounts the heat pipes would go up towards the top of case, making it that much more efficient.


----------



## N2Gaming

The verticle position could be less of a factor if the heat pipes have a wick inside them. At least that's what I gather from that thread.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I wanted to get two xfx 8800 GTS cards but oh well.

I'm wondering if any one plays HL2. I'm having a problem and hopefully it's an easy fix. I hate calling CSR's for support becuase half the time they don't know their a$$ from a hole in the ground and once in a while you get one that you can't get to shut up cause all he/she wants to do is show off how much they know. I often think to myself while using CSR's, not that it's a bad thing but come on let's fix my problem so you can help other paying customers like myself.

So here is the problem. I load HL2 from w/in steam window and I get the loading screen and it stop's there. my pc stops responding. cntl+alt+del has no effect. The only thing I can do at this point is hit the reset button or sleep button. So I choose sleep. Then I wake it up write away and Cntrl+Alt+Del and end program. Then I get back to my other apps things of the sort. Has anyone had this problem and what did you do to fix it?



I play it, and it seems like their updating it so much that its become REALLY slow to load up. 
Anyway, does it happen with CSS or TF2 if you have it? Or any other game launched from within steam?
If it only happens when loading HL2 and no other games, unistall the game, clear the registry of anything associated with it, unfortunately itll probably remove every other game thats based on HL2, so if youve got a lot of multiplayer maps save em so you dont have to re-d/l them.
Then reinstall.


----------



## N2Gaming

wo doggy slow down a bit please. TF2 works fine just not HL2. I can unistall HL2 from with in controll panel add remove apps. I have never played it so I don't know of any maps that I would need to save. So what your saying is simply try to unistall and reinstall. Is this correct?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
The verticle position could be less of a factor if the heat pipes have a wick inside them. At least that's what I gather from that thread.









From what I gathered the wick is kind of a heat transfer medium that seperates an inner pipe from the outer pipe. But the key is getting the evaporated solution to travel further down the pipe so it can be cooled, recondensed and sent back to the area with the most heat. So if the heat pipes curve down then up it seems like it would trap the hot gases and not cool as efficiently. But then again gas takes up so much space that it would eventually travel down the pipe anyway. I guess its kind of hard to make an accurate analysis without knowing the inner pipes capacity and how much fluid is acutally inside there, also it would be important to know what the static pressure is inside of it. Changing pressures changes boiling points. So, for instance, water that is pressurinzed to 1 psi will boil @ 216*f. Raises 4*f per 1psi.
So I guess more info is required then the companies provide.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
wo doggy slow down a bit please. TF2 works fine just not HL2. I can unistall HL2 from with in controll panel add remove apps. I have never played it so I don't know of any maps that I would need to save. So what your saying is simply try to unistall and reinstall. Is this correct?

Do you have counter strike source installed? And if so does it hang when you try to launch that?

And yes, uninstall, delete registry folder for HL2, then reinstall. Its my personal opinion with deleting the registry folder. That way theres no remnants of the past install, and itll put a new folder there anyway.


----------



## N2Gaming

no but I have conflict: Denied opps Demo. this game I have only been able to play it once. I just tried it as well and and it has another issue. it'll load but the screen spins non stop in a clockwise direction unless I move the mouse to the left or counterclockwise. Sucks to be me right now.







How do I remove registery folder. Is that the folder that was chosen when it was installed? Sorry for the newb questions. I'll get there some day. today does not look good though.


----------



## BlackOmega

hang on a sec let me find the folder....


----------



## BlackOmega

Ok heres how you do it. First unistall the game. exit steam completely. Then click on the start menu, click the run button, type in regedit. On the left will be a series of folders. Click the + button next to the folder HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE, then click the + buttin next to software, then click the + button next to classes, scroll down till you see the Applications folder click the + button, scroll down till you see the hl2.exe folder. delete that. empty trash.

Do you have the HL2 disk or did you buy it online? Regardless, if you have the disk you can reinstall that way, itll be much faster. Otherwise, go to My Games and reinstall using steam, it takes forever though.


----------



## eviloverclocker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
no but I have conflict: Denied opps Demo. this game I have only been able to play it once. I just tried it as well and and it has another issue. it'll load but the screen spins non stop in a clockwise direction unless I move the mouse to the left or counterclockwise. Sucks to be me right now.







How do I remove registery folder. Is that the folder that was chosen when it was installed? Sorry for the newb questions. I'll get there some day. today does not look good though.

Thats odd, I've never seen a game do this. Denied Opps? Thats insane.







Never had a prob with HL-2, hope you are able to re-install it and it will work fine.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Ok heres how you do it. First unistall the game. exit steam completely. Then click on the start menu, click the run button, type in regedit. On the left will be a series of folders. Click the + button next to the folder HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE, then click the + buttin next to software, then click the + button next to classes, scroll down till you see the Applications folder click the + button, scroll down till you see the hl2.exe folder. delete that. empty trash.

Do you have the HL2 disk or did you buy it online? Regardless, if you have the disk you can reinstall that way, itll be much faster. Otherwise, go to My Games and reinstall using steam, it takes forever though.

Interesting. I could not find the HL2 folder in that location. Maybe that's the problem. I may have changed a folder directory or something before installing it. I do have the disk by the way. I do remember when I installed it, it did take forever by the way with the steam window open. don't know if it's related to orange box, but sure looks as if something went a rye. makes me hungry. awe I'll just keep drinking my silver bullets and hope we figure this out.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Interesting. I could not find the HL2 folder in that location. Maybe that's the problem. I may have changed a folder directory or something before installing it. I do have the disk by the way. I do remember when I installed it, it did take forever by the way with the steam window open. don't know if it's related to orange box, but sure looks as if something went a rye. makes me hungry. awe I'll just keep drinking my silver bullets and hope we figure this out.


That could be your problem. Theres no executable. Try just uninstalling whats there and then reinstall. Then check to see if the hl2.exe folder is in the registry. Unless it puts it somewhere else with the Orange box set....Doubt it though.


----------



## Blitz6804

Everyone please welcome DesertRat to the club. After months of shunning us, the Man Named Chester finally joins our fold.


----------



## DesertRat

Can I haz in?
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=451148

Man named Chester is ^

edit: lol, thanx


----------



## pioneerisloud

Welcome to the club D.R.! You *WILL* enjoy your stay, if you don't....I'll make you!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Please welcome yet another new member of our little family, DesertRat.









The only thing is, he didn't pay me his Club dues.

Just kidding! Just kidding!









Great to have you aboard!

Back to me bed I go... this headache is killing me...


----------



## JEmmaB

Welcome DesertRat!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well it seems pio is at it again! I just had a GREAT opportunity show up in the form of BFG offering free upgrades from AGP cards!

So....to go SLI 9600GT's, or not to go SLI. That is the question.....

Link here







.


----------



## BlackOmega

Nah youre better off getting a 9800GTX+......


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Nah youre better off getting a 9800GTX+......

Keep in mind, the 9600GT's are free upgrades for me







.

And also keep in mind that the 9800GTX is pretty much the same card as my current 8800GTS 512...just smaller die, and slightly higher stock clocks.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Keep in mind, the 9600GT's are free upgrades for me







.

And also keep in mind that the 9800GTX is pretty much the same card as my current 8800GTS 512...just smaller die, and slightly higher stock clocks.


So I guess Im wondering why youd want to technically downgrade to a 9600gt?







Even my GSO's have more stream processors. You'd literally need to have both cards sli'd just to match the performace you already have.
But at the speeds youre running you might see an improvement. I kind of doubt it though.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
So I guess Im wondering why youd want to technically downgrade to a 9600gt?







Even my GSO's have more stream processors. You'd literally need to have both cards sli'd just to match the performace you already have.
But at the speeds youre running you might see an improvement. I kind of doubt it though.

I dunno....I'm bored. And I also hear the 9600GT's in SLI scale EXTREMELY well. They are supposedly capable of keeping up with a single 4870. I figure why not give it a go...its a free upgrade. If for some odd reason it turns out not to work the way I planned on it working....I'll sell em for some quick cash.

If it does in fact work out though, I can then sell my 8800GTS G92 for a little bit of money as well.


----------



## BlackOmega

I think you should try shlowing your rig down and see how far you can take the pcie OC to. Then with each stable step run a benchmark to see your improvement.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I think you should try shlowing your rig down and see how far you can take the pcie OC to. Then with each stable step run a benchmark to see your improvement.

Negative...upping my PCIe frequency does absolutely nothing to my rig. Doesn't increase benchmarks, gaming performance nothing. If I'm not mistaken, the lower end 9 series do in fact see increases by upping the PCIe clock...whereas the 8800 series and lower don't see any difference.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Negative...upping my PCIe frequency does absolutely nothing to my rig. Doesn't increase benchmarks, gaming performance nothing. If I'm not mistaken, the lower end 9 series do in fact see increases by upping the PCIe clock...whereas the 8800 series and lower don't see any difference.

Hmmm very interesting...... Think I might sell my cards and buy 1 sooper dooper bangin card, like a gtx200 series or a 4870......


----------



## pez

Pio, personally, I wouldn't buy cards any worse than what you already have. Yes, together they'll perform better than one 88GTS, but think about it for games that it doesn't. Try going for at least a 98GT, even though that's still not as good.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Oh, you're using a 8800GTS? G92? I have my card clocked to about the performance of a GTS. What rates are you getting in cod4 at 1680x1050? What other games do you play?

Yeah mate.. It was the card that died in my hands so I got the 4870... I played cod4 at 1680x1050 at high details but without AA and I could enjoy the game. Don't know about fps though.. I also play GRIP, Assasin's Creed, Bioshock, Fallout 3. In all these the card performed awesome at 1680x1050..

@Think3r
If you saw the output diagrams of the 12v during the OCCT test you would cry man.. It's all spiky and under 12volts. How could noise be produced in my system so it turned it off?


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
Yeah mate.. It was the card that died in my hands so I got the 4870... I played cod4 at 1680x1050 at high details but without AA and I could enjoy the game. Don't know about fps though.. I also play GRIP, Assasin's Creed, Bioshock, Fallout 3. In all these the card performed awesome at 1680x1050..

@Think3r
If you saw the output diagrams of the 12v during the OCCT test you would cry man.. It's all spiky and under 12volts. How could noise be produced in my system so it turned it off?

Hmmm, thanks. Well I've decided that I'm going to go ahead and go for the 22" for X-mas, and if need be, I'll run games at 1440x900, and then just get another 98GT to assist it for full res. Thanks Mike.


----------



## JEmmaB

Well, I managed to beat my Opty 185's previous record; by the slightest of margin.


















Validation

Air-cooled using Big Typhoon and 512MB x 4 mems.


----------



## Choggs396

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JEmmaB* 
Well, I managed to beat my Opty 185's previous record; by the slightest of margin.


















Validation

Wow, that is an awesome OC. Great work!


----------



## JEmmaB

Thanks Choggs396!


----------



## MikeV_E36

Jemma great job! Bravo! Push that beast to the limits!

pez great choice for monitor man, you gonna love playing games on such big screen and I'm pretty sure your gt can handle the 1680x1050! Maybe you'll need a 2nd one for newer games like farcry2.


----------



## TestECull

Hey, Mike, did you ever get a chance to test it with that game?


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
Hey, Mike, did you ever get a chance to test it with that game?

Yes and at 1680x1050 at full quality had a major drop in fps, couldn't play normally. After this I didn't get to try at lower settings cause I had to format my pc and didn't install it again. I'm waiting to give it a try again with the new gpu. The sure is that 8800gts 512 won't go farcry2 @1680x1050 high quality..

Just read that by enabling the "CPU overvoltage" in bios you enable the 8-phase power system which gives more stability to the system. Is that true?? pio or txtmstrjoe maybe you know cause you have the same mobo with me?? CPU overvoltage gave 0.2v more so I enabled it and drop the CPU voltage down by 0.2v.


----------



## JEmmaB

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
Jemma great job! Bravo! Push that beast to the limits!

Thanks, I plan to.









Slightly higher OC.


















Validation


----------



## Blitz6804

Oustanding JEmmaB; just outstanding. Your 939 K8 is now faster than my AM2 K8. Who said 939 is obsolete? I think this proves it is not!

(I hope you do not mind, but I have changed the roster but will not upload until we get another member since you already have the "Oh WOW!" designation and improved your score by 12 MHz. I would not be surprised if it goes up again anyway.)


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JEmmaB* 
Thanks, I plan to.









Slightly higher OC.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
Yes and at 1680x1050 at full quality had a major drop in fps, couldn't play normally. After this I didn't get to try at lower settings cause I had to format my pc and didn't install it again. I'm waiting to give it a try again with the new gpu. The sure is that 8800gts 512 won't go farcry2 @1680x1050 high quality..

Just read that by enabling the "CPU overvoltage" in bios you enable the 8-phase power system which gives more stability to the system. Is that true?? pio or txtmstrjoe maybe you know cause you have the same mobo with me?? CPU overvoltage gave 0.2v more so I enabled it and drop the CPU voltage down by 0.2v.

MikeV, I have a strong dislike for enabling the CPU Overvolt option. Despite the claims that enabling this option enables the much-ballyhooed "8-phase Power System," therefore endowing the system with more stability, on the A8N32-SLI Deluxes that I've played with (two), they made the system more unstable. Voltage regulation becomes quite inconsistent with this setting enabled, especially during load. This is obviously undesirable for overclocking.









I'm not sure what pio's experiences with this setting are, so I hope he weighs in as well.

I'd test and experiment, if I were you. It's possible that I had the incredible luck of having two boards where this feature was somehow faulty in implementation.







During testing, there's no harm done in finding out what *your* equipment can do.









Good luck! And hope this helps.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
MikeV, I have a strong dislike for enabling the CPU Overvolt option. Despite the claims that enabling this option enables the much-ballyhooed "8-phase Power System," therefore endowing the system with more stability, on the A8N32-SLI Deluxes that I've played with (two), they made the system more unstable. Voltage regulation becomes quite inconsistent with this setting enabled, especially during load. ...

Seems to me if this is the case then a Cap replacement is in order and will achieve stable OC's.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
Just read that by enabling the "CPU overvoltage" in bios you enable the 8-phase power system which gives more stability to the system. Is that true?? pio or txtmstrjoe maybe you know cause you have the same mobo with me?? CPU overvoltage gave 0.2v more so I enabled it and drop the CPU voltage down by 0.2v.

Great Question. That got me thinking that option has to be the same on am2 boards as well. Like to see every one's results or at least theory on this one. Joe if your experience play's true then maybe it's just for stock spd's with cpu intensive games and such.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Seems to me if this is the case then a Cap replacement is in order and will achieve stable OC's.









Possible, but doubtful, for three reasons:

A visual inspection of all capacitors didn't indicate any were bad. Of course, I'm no expert in capacitors, so my eyes may not be well-trained enough to know the difference except in the most extreme and obvious circumstances.

One of the two boards exhibited this behavior ever since it was brand new. This is the primary factor which makes me believe this is a congenital design defect rather than a bad batch of components like capacitors, for example.

If the voltage regulators were affected by bad hardware, shouldn't the inconsistent voltage regulation also be present when the setting is not enabled? I get much better voltage regulation when CPU Overvolt is set to "Disabled" (which is the default setting).

If I had enough skills, of course, I'd consider upgrading sundry components such as capacitors so that they'd be as good as they apparently are on a DFI LANParty-series board. Talk about great voltage regulation... these things are in another league compared to the A8N32-SLI...


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Possible, but doubtful, for three reasons:

A visual inspection of all capacitors didn't indicate any were bad. Of course, I'm no expert in capacitors, so my eyes may not be well-trained enough to know the difference except in the most extreme and obvious circumstances.

One of the two boards exhibited this behavior ever since it was brand new. This is the primary factor which makes me believe this is a congenital design defect rather than a bad batch of components like capacitors, for example.

If the voltage regulators were affected by bad hardware, shouldn't the inconsistent voltage regulation also be present when the setting is not enabled? I get much better voltage regulation when CPU Overvolt is set to "Disabled" (which is the default setting).

If I had enough skills, of course, I'd consider upgrading sundry components such as capacitors so that they'd be as good as they apparently are on a DFI LANParty-series board. Talk about great voltage regulation... these things are in another league compared to the A8N32-SLI...









The caps may be fine, But they may just meet minimum specs. A Caps job is to smooth out your Voltage so replaceing them with higher grade larger caps should achieve this.


----------



## JEmmaB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Oustanding JEmmaB; just outstanding. Your 939 K8 is now faster than my AM2 K8. Who said 939 is obsolete? I think this proves it is not!

(I hope you do not mind, but I have changed the roster but will not upload until we get another member since you already have the "Oh WOW!" designation and improved your score by 12 MHz. I would not be surprised if it goes up again anyway.)


Thanks.







Still hoping to get it higher, at least to 3.3GHz.









With regards to the roster; I don't mind.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


The caps may be fine, But they may just meet minimum specs. A Caps job is to smooth out your Voltage so replaceing them with higher grade larger caps should achieve this.


Oh, I don't doubt you're right about this, actually.

But with everything as it is, only one setting change causes the behavior I'm seeing, which suggests that it's either a BIOS issue (not likely, since the behavior persists over at least four BIOS versions that I've tried), or a problem with the board's VRMs/MOSFETs. Since the voltage regulation is much more consistent with CPU Overvolt disabled, I'm inclined to think it's that particular BIOS setting.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


Jemma great job! Bravo! Push that beast to the limits!

pez great choice for monitor man, you gonna love playing games on such big screen and I'm pretty sure your gt can handle the 1680x1050! Maybe you'll need a 2nd one for newer games like farcry2.


Yeah, I'm going to eventually get a second, but I've been bugging my mom about getting a widescreen monitor since last X-Mas, so it's my main priority.

CPU cooler says out for delivery. Can't wait.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Oh, I don't doubt you're right about this, actually.

But with everything as it is, only one setting change causes the behavior I'm seeing, which suggests that it's either a BIOS issue (not likely, since the behavior persists over at least four BIOS versions that I've tried), or a problem with the board's VRMs/MOSFETs. Since the voltage regulation is much more consistent with CPU Overvolt disabled, I'm inclined to think it's that particular BIOS setting.


Hmm, Are your Fets Being cooled? do you have a way of measuring their temp? If they are mounted on board (I.E. back is soldered on mainboard) you can stand them up and place a sink on their back (Just make sure the sink is making a connection to the board as well) and this will lower temps drastically. HS on top of Fets don't work well.

But I would still go after the caps first. It's not hard and will help overall stability. It will not hurt. Unless of course you destroy the board while doing it.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Well it seems pio is at it again! I just had a GREAT opportunity show up in the form of BFG offering free upgrades from AGP cards!

So....to go SLI 9600GT's, or not to go SLI. That is the question.....

Link here







.


good find. local craigslist turned up several agp cards. I could not see in the offer when it is limited to i.e. offer expires. I'd hate to buy a agp and be stuck w/it. I'm gonna go 9800gt all the way. also do you know if your limited to one per cutomer?


----------



## pez

Got a small question guys. When I tuck away my CPU fan wires (which will be connected to the mobo) will it be fine if I tuck the excess behind the motherboard? I actually think that the ACF64Pro has pre sleeved cables.

N2, you'll be very happy with a 9800GT. It's ran so nicely for me so far. I've gotten to test out a 19" widescreen at 1440x900 and everything runs like a champ. I have every game maxed out at that res. except Warhead, which is set on all High.


----------



## Catsup

as long as the wire isnt exposed.

I have all of my cables running behind my motherboard=) (except the ones i cant hide)


----------



## pez

You mean exposed as in how? I mean, like it's a red, black and yellow wire i think? You mean like the actual wire underneath the colored insulation?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Got a small question guys. When I tuck away my CPU fan wires (which will be connected to the mobo) will it be fine if I tuck the excess behind the motherboard?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Welcome to the Club all you new guys









Sorry I haven't been on fellas. I'm trying to see if I have some bad RAM.My regular 3Ghz stability at the same settings isn't stable now. I may have some timings screwed up since I had to lower everything when I was using that 420Watt PSU.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*












I'm guessing that means I'll be fine?


----------



## Catsup

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


You mean exposed as in how? I mean, like it's a red, black and yellow wire i think? You mean like the actual wire underneath the colored insulation?



yes you'll be fine as long as you didnt strip the insulation off of the wire=P

just be careful take your time and do it the right way so u dont have to do it again.

i took some of the fans and directly connected them to the 12v line by splicing them together and soldering / taping them together so they would run @ full speed 100% of the time (thats why i said as long as the wire isnt exposed)


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


You mean exposed as in how? I mean, like it's a red, black and yellow wire i think? You mean like the actual wire underneath the colored insulation?


I see no problem with going behind the mobo as long as no part of the conductive metal wires are exposed, causing a short. So unless insulation is damaged it's all OK.


----------



## pez

Ok, thanks guys, I just didn't want to screw anything up. The connection from the cooler to the mobo will be a short distance, so I'll be able to tuck it.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


I'm guessing that means I'll be fine?


Just be careful not to let the wires touch any hot surface of the mobo and melt the thin wire insulation.

About the overvoltage setting I'll leave it enabled and monitor the stability of my pc under load and I'll post you guys my results. Messing around with the caps isn't a good idea for me as soon as it needs surgical precision to get them changed myself. It needs a low wattage solder iron and let us not forget we're talking about pcbs made by robots and not humans. You could shortciruit the pcb by just making a welding bigger by 1mm radius.


----------



## Blitz6804

It might not be a bad idea to tape the wires to the case Pez. Then, you need not worry about them coming off the back wall and touching the motherboard. As Mike said, be sure to avoid areas like the PWM, CPU socket, and NB. The rest of the motherboard will likely be cool, but the area under the aforementioned might be a touch warm.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


I'm guessing that means I'll be fine?


YES, Many times you will see me answer with Emoticons as It is easier for me to use the mouse than to get to the keyboard as I am Disabled.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


Just be careful not to let the wires touch any hot surface of the mobo and melt the thin wire insulation.

About the overvoltage setting I'll leave it enabled and monitor the stability of my pc under load and I'll post you guys my results. Messing around with the caps isn't a good idea for me as soon as it needs surgical precision to get them changed myself. It needs a low wattage solder iron and let us not forget we're talking about pcbs made by robots and not humans. You could shortciruit the pcb by just making a welding bigger by 1mm radius.


It's really not hard. You don't really need a low wattage iron. Just don't hold it on there all day. To remove a cap just hit one side with the iron on the back of the PCB and press on the opposite side of the cap on the top to tilt it away from the leg you are desoldering. it will move the leg up then. Then you do the opposite on the other side of the cap and repeat until the cap comes off. I have my 15 year old nephew doing it fine. Try it on a broken appliance or some thing until your comfortable. It will serve you well through life.


----------



## Catsup

about the guy that said dont let the wires touch anything hot because it will melt---

the plastic on those wires melt at an incredibly high temp (we're talking 150c or more) compared to the rest of the computer.

The only way your going to melt one is if you purposely shorted the power supply , and then ONLY if you disabled the safety features, such as the fuse.

Its just not going to happen @ 50-80c.

And the whole caps thing---

I replace my capacitors on the mobo/ in the power supply / video card all the time,

Not because they are bad, but because i like replacing them with higher quality (same capacity.. like 450uf with the same 450uf cap) except higher voltage tolerance.

This helps with overclocking as they dont overheat. but i dont recommend it unless you have a steady hand.


----------



## thlnk3r

DesertRat, welcome to the club









Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


If you saw the output diagrams of the 12v during the OCCT test you would cry man.. It's all spiky and under 12volts. How could noise be produced in my system so it turned it off?


Mike, it could be related to EMI (Electromagnetic interference), poor quality or failing components in the PSU. I mainly point my figure towards quality. Noise and ripple might also effect this.

In regards to the question about "wires being behind the motherboard", I've done this several times and haven't ran into any problems. As long as the wires are insulated and not exposed then I foresee no problems.

Good luck guys

Catsup, what brand do you normally go with (caps)?


----------



## Blitz6804

MikeV_E36: Do you have Spread Spectrum enabled? Having it enabled might cause greater fluctuations in the voltage to prevent EMI build up. On the flip side, having it disabled might be causing the EMI that is causing it to fluctuate. Whatever setting you have it on, try the other setting.


----------



## Catsup

i usually buy Sanyo because they make excellent solid state capacitors.

(i'll be back in a bit, i just got my new ram! yay.. )

check out sanyo, they sell them at the Shields near my house at decent prices.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Catsup* 
about the guy that said dont let the wires touch anything hot because it will melt---

the plastic on those wires melt at an incredibly high temp (we're talking 150c or more) compared to the rest of the computer.

The only way your going to melt one is if you purposely shorted the power supply , and then ONLY if you disabled the safety features, such as the fuse.

Its just not going to happen @ 50-80c.

The guy is me. What I have suggested is because of seeing plastic/silicon things go into pieces after long exposure to high temps which happens due to phase changing driven by heat. Of course the wires won't melt instantly but the insulation's material properties are going to alter in long time and might rip sometime.

@Think3r & Blitz
Thanks for the info. I'll give it a closer look when the new psu arrives so as to be sure it's not anything about insufficient wattage!


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey guys just got my first successful overclock with this Dr board.







I'll keep pushing. Turned out my ram settings were all out of wack. I'm going to try to bring my Cvolt down now and see what happens. Here is the validation. I know it's not much but I gotta start somewhere.









In regards to melting the wires tucked behind the mobo. I would not think that your computer components could get hot enough to melt the rubber/Plastic insulation. On the other hand they may be able to heat up the plastic/rubber insulation to a point that it becomes more pliable or spongy for lack of a better word and less hard. That usually happens just before the molecules start to change from the heat. i.e. just before it reaches it's melting point. Resulting is less resistance to pressure. So if the wire did get warm enough to become more rubbery and it was pressed against other components then maybe it's possible the pressure could cause the insulation to become smashed enough to expose the wires within. I hopes my $.02$ helps

Validation Update: Looks like I'm on the right track now. voltage down fsb up ya!!!


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Validation Update: Looks like I'm on the right track now. voltage down fsb up ya!!![/FONT]

Looks good







Try pushing until you find the best setting and then check the stability with orthos, occt or rigsofrods!


----------



## Catsup

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
The guy is me. What I have suggested is because of seeing plastic/silicon things go into pieces after long exposure to high temps which happens due to phase changing driven by heat. Of course the wires won't melt instantly but the insulation's material properties are going to alter in long time and might rip sometime.

@Think3r & Blitz
Thanks for the info. I'll give it a closer look when the new psu arrives so as to be sure it's not anything about insufficient wattage!


good point,

I agree with you, but its going to take a long time for the plastic to become brittle.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
Looks good







Try pushing until you find the best setting and then check the stability with orthos, occt or rigsofrods!

I'm so stoked right now



































still pushing SEE

better yet


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
MikeV_E36: Do you have Spread Spectrum enabled? Having it enabled might cause greater fluctuations in the voltage to prevent EMI build up. On the flip side, having it disabled might be causing the EMI that is causing it to fluctuate. Whatever setting you have it on, try the other setting.

Blitz, in most cases if the machine is not being overclocked then it's best to keep this option _enabled_.

N2Gaming, keep going









Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Thlnk3r: my computers have always had it enabled. Even when overclocked. I am just saying it is something to look at. Perhaps he has already turned it off, and enabling would fix it.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, in most cases if the machine is not being overclocked then it's best to keep this option _enabled_.

N2Gaming, keep going









Good luck


I just hit a wall at fsb 225 os missing file. put fsb back to 220 and she's back up and running. I think I try the ht multi from 5 to 4 next and see if she'll boot at fsb of 225.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Thlnk3r: my computers have always had it enabled. Even when overclocked. I am just saying it is something to look at. Perhaps he has already turned it off, and enabling would fix it.


Blitz, try disabling it and see if that allows for more OC'ing room. I couldn't go above a certain HTT on my DFI until I disabled that option (spread spectrum).

N2Gaming, an HT multiplier of 4x may help. At 5x that would make your HT 1100Mhz which of course may have been the culprit. Keep us posted.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Look also at your RAM subtimings. With my nForce3 board, I could not exceed 250 MHz even with the RAM at DDR333, 3-4-4-8. What was holding me back was the tRC/tRFC. I had them at the "ideal" 12/16. Loosening them to 20/24 permitted me to continue going up to 270.


----------



## N2Gaming

think3r turns out that was not it this time. I tried upping cvolt, chipset volt and loosening primary ram timings and the system would not post so I had to start over. turns out the ram timings from what I experiance so far are the biggest roadblock. Blitz I'll try your suggestion for lossening those and see how it works. they are probably set to auto any way.


----------



## thlnk3r

N2Gaming, if your memory frequency is below stock and the sub-timings are at stock then that shouldn't be the problem. I wouldn't touch the memory until you found a stable overclock with your processor. I understand no other overclocks are unlike but I kept my G.Skill set at it's factory settings (sub-timings) all the way up to 300HTT*10x. You could try loosening the timings to see if that helps. Everything is worth a try but in my experience, I never had to touch the memory unless it was the divider.

Manually making the changes might also help too. If they are set to AUTO then who knows what the timings are sitting at.

Good luck


----------



## pez

It's installed. Will get pics up soon of it. So far, after about 5-10 minutes of it running, it's cooling one core at 29-30 and the other core at about 37-38. This is compared to the 34-35 and 39-41 before. Maybe after letting the TIM (AS5) sit for a while, it'll get a bit better. Was a little hard to get on, but finally looks a lot better as well than that stock cooler







.


----------



## N2Gaming

So far I have cpu at fsb 220*12 & ram @ 3.3.5.3 1T other ram timings like stock 2.3.5.2 1T will not load os. I tried to disable cpc for 2T that's not it either. oh well So I'll run a stability test for a little while and see how she holds at 2640.5GHz.







cpu cvoltage is @ 1.344


----------



## Blitz6804

Wait, so you are running your RAM at DDR 440 @ 3-3-3-5-1T (tCL-tRCD-tRP-tRAS-CR)? What RAM are you running? Your writeup of it says you have DDR2 800 RAM on there, obviously a typo.


----------



## N2Gaming

tried to change sli dr info but it does not show up after I make changes. I'm running OCZ400ELDCPE-K 2X1024 KIT. I also tried to delete DFI NF4 DLI DR from my signatures and cant do that either. I get this when I try

Your submission could not be processed because the token has expired.

Please push the back button and reload the previous window.


----------



## pez

And here it is







. It's soo pretty


----------



## Blitz6804

Your RAM calls for 2.8 V to do DDR 400 @ 2-3-2-5. Ensure you are currently giving them 2.8 V. At DDR 440, I would suspect they will likely do 2-3-3-6, and if not, perhaps 2.5-3-3-8.


----------



## N2Gaming

yup voltage set to 2.8 so your saying if I can get 2.3.5.6 would be better then 3.3.3.5


----------



## Blitz6804

This is something that needs testing. Is it better to do 2-3-2-5 @ DDR 400 (via a divider) or DDR 450 with something looser like 3-3-3-8.


----------



## N2Gaming

I see. P95 crashed cpu1 after about 40min anyway so she's not even stable at those settings.

does anyone have a upc code for a bfg6800oc 256 mb video card. I found one for $40.00 and I need the UPC to register the card to get the 9800gt updgrade. oh I just realized if I pay 40 and upgrade for 50 I just spent 90 same price as if I buy it new with rebate.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Wait, so you are running your RAM at DDR 440 @ 3-3-3-5-1T (tCL-tRCD-tRP-tRAS-CR)?


N2Gaming, it would make more sense if you didn't have your memory overclocked (20mhz). For testing purposes you should have the frequency below it's rated speed. Have you tested your chipset to find it's maximum reference clock speed (HTT)?

Good luck

Pez, clean setup


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, it would make more sense if you didn't have your memory overclocked (20mhz). For testing purposes you should have the frequency below it's rated speed. Have you tested your chipset to find it's maximum reference clock speed (HTT)?

Good luck

Pez, clean setup










thanks







. I really did try hard. Not to mention, I have a pretty horrible case for cable managment.


----------



## Blitz6804

Just so everyone knows... if I am sparse as of late, I am not dead, but instead, out of town. The cab is coming in about 20 minutes. I will be back by Sunday.

So... Pez... when you flying to BUF to rewire my case?


----------



## N2Gaming

thinker thank you and the answer is no. i'm sooooooooobad !!! i was just trying to show that i was able to get the fsb and overclocking stuff in motion. you may remember this opty was dropped before i ever got a chance to install it for the first time and i have been babying it for a while now ever since. now that i have a little and i mean little oc skill I will try to find my mobo, cpu & ram limits. none the less i'm on the board.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Just so everyone knows... if I am sparse as of late, I am not dead, but instead, out of town. The cab is coming in about 20 minutes. I will be back by Sunday.

So... Pez... when you flying to BUF to rewire my case?


Blitz, we'll leave the technical memory questions for you while you're gone









If you seriously want some wiring done on your case I would say send it to me and I could work on it but the machine would probably end up getting damaged during shipment.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

well just in case happy turkey day Blitz


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Just so everyone knows... if I am sparse as of late, I am not dead, but instead, out of town. The cab is coming in about 20 minutes. I will be back by Sunday.

So... Pez... when you flying to BUF to rewire my case?


haha, when are you flying to NC for me to







.


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Just so everyone knows... if I am sparse as of late, I am not dead, but instead, out of town. The cab is coming in about 20 minutes. I will be back by Sunday.

So... Pez... when you flying to BUF to rewire my case?



If there's dice in the mirror and the plate says "FRESH", be sure to take pix.


----------



## Blitz6804

As soon as you pay the airfare pez...

And Thlnk3r, I likely will be stoppin in once a day.

I would TestECull, but this a'int Bel Aire.


----------



## badave

Hello all.I am still running a 939 system.Attachment 88936


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


If there's dice in the mirror and the plate says "FRESH", be sure to take pix.


I just got it. SMELL YOU LATER HOMES


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *badave*


Hello all.I am still running a 939 system.Attachment 88936



Welcome to the club.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *badave*


Hello all.I am still running a 939 system.Attachment 88936


Badave, welcome to the club. You'll be added to the roster as soon as Joe pops in


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Badave, welcome to the club. You'll be added to the roster *as soon as Joe pops in*










Now which rock did Joe decide to hide under this time.......

OH...WELCOME TO THE CLUB BADAVE!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

The "rock" you guys speak of is called "A Slow Computer at Work."

My apologies, badave; I will add you to our roster as soon as I'm able to at home. This PC at work (it's not my normal computer at work, since I'm not at my regular desk) is so slow, the text I'm typing doesn't appear for at least ten seconds after I've typed it...

Did I mention this piece of junk is an Intel Dell?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
The "rock" you guys speak of is called "A Slow Computer at Work."

My apologies, badave; I will add you to our roster as soon as I'm able to at home. This PC at work (it's not my normal computer at work, since I'm not at my regular desk) is so slow, the text I'm typing doesn't appear for at least ten seconds after I've typed it...

Did I mention this piece of junk is an Intel Dell?









so did someone give it a bad overclock and fry the chipset or something. I don't expect a response just joking around.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
The "rock" you guys speak of is called "A Slow Computer at Work."

My apologies, badave; I will add you to our roster as soon as I'm able to at home. This PC at work (it's not my normal computer at work, since I'm not at my regular desk) is so slow, the text I'm typing doesn't appear for at least ten seconds after I've typed it...

Did I mention this piece of junk is an *Intel* Dell?









No Wonder!!!







Just kidding....or am I?

Ok, time for bed for pio, he's starting to act strangely. Talk to everyone later.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
No Wonder!!!







Just kidding....or am I?

Ok, time for bed for pio, he's starting to act strangely. Talk to everyone later.

Pio, instead of sleeping at 4:48PM how about you get that rig of yours ready for the contest? Of course it might be pointless since my Opteron 170 is going to destroy yours


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Pio, instead of sleeping at 4:48PM how about you get that rig of yours ready for the contest? Of course it might be pointless since my Opteron 170 is going to destroy yours









We'll see about that. I've already got the rig ready to roll. It actually hasn't changed hardware wise...but I know exactly what stunts I'm going to be pulling out to get this thing goin







. What is that you ask? Its a secret till the contest is open







.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
We'll see about that. I've already got the rig ready to roll. It actually hasn't changed hardware wise...but I know exactly what stunts I'm going to be pulling out to get this thing goin







. What is that you ask? Its a secret till the contest is open







.

Pio, I'll be ready


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Pio, I'll be ready









Bring it!


----------



## pez

Lol you guys behave. We're almost at page 939







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

A formal welcome to our newest member, badave!







Glad to have you as part of our family.









As the rest of you can see, thlnk3r and pio are chomping at the bit with all their bluster and thunderous trash talking. They're rarin' to go with our next Club-exclusive contest.

I hope their example inspires everyone to want to participate, compete, experiment, and learn with our upcoming Club contest. Single-core or dual-core S939 chip, it doesn't matter; I can almost promise you that you'll want to jump right in.


----------



## Bogeyone001

Welcome to 939


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bogeyone001*


Welcome to 939










Yo have not heard from you in a while. good to see ya still around.

Joe, I'm stoked about the contest for sure. I just found my mobo limit seen Here. I am finally starting to use my mobo the way it was meant to be used. he he









Thanks think3r for reminding me to start with the basics and find all my componants limits so I can find a happy median for all to co-exist in a blissfully succesfull overclock.

This is how far I could push the cpu w/o upping the Vcore
This is after upping the Vcore to 1.375
This is where I chickened out w/Vcore at 1.425


----------



## TestECull

What is the contest?


----------



## JEmmaB

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
What is the contest?

I'm kinda excited about it. Guys can you give more info? Thanks.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Patience, my friends. All will be revealed soon enough.

I would like to say, though, that it would be wise to remember this maxim: "Fortune favors the bold."







So marshal all your skills, and gather up all your courage. If the quest finds you worthy, you may find yourself a little bit richer when next the sun shall rise.


----------



## Hueristic

We should Lock this Thread and start a new one on page 939.


----------



## JEmmaB

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Patience, my friends. All will be revealed soon enough.

I would like to say, though, that it would be wise to remember this maxim: "Fortune favors the bold."







So marshal all your skills, and gather up all your courage. If the quest finds you worthy, you may find yourself a little bit richer when next the sun shall rise.

And be patient I shall be.


----------



## TestECull

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
We should Lock this Thread and start a new one on page 939.










It's only on page 232


----------



## pez

well for those w/ the default 10 posts per page, it's 926.


----------



## TestECull

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
well for those w/ the default 10 posts per page, it's 926.


Defaults are for Dells...


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


Defaults are for Dells...


:swearing::swearing::swearing::swearing:







:k ungfu:


----------



## N2Gaming

So far I have been able to increase my 3Dmark06 score by 541 points @ 9126 seen here with a moderate overclock cpuz validation what do you all think about that...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Thanks think3r for reminding me to start with the basics and find all my componants limits so I can find a happy median for all to co-exist in a blissfully succesfull overclock.

This is how far I could push the cpu w/o upping the Vcore
This is after upping the Vcore to 1.375
This is where I chickened out w/Vcore at 1.425


N2Gaming, well done my friend









The overclock with 1.375volts is very nice. Did you test with Orthos with the small FFTs test just to see if it was stable for a few minutes? Don't worry about your voltages at 1.425. That is still fairly low in my opinion. There won't be any "frying". As long as you have proper cooling and case airflow/ventilation then you are good to go. Try and shoot for a stable 3Ghz overclock!

Next you need to find the limits of your motherboard (max HTT) and also your memory frequency. This will give us a better baseline.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

motherboard max htt was posted just above what you copied and pasted in the quote. As Seen Here . As far as memory goes, I have not been able to obtain anything much over ddr400. The problem with upping my voltage is due to not having a temperature monitor that I trust .


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
motherboard max htt was posted just above what you copied and pasted in the quote. As Seen Here . As far as memory goes, I have not been able to obtain anything much over ddr400

N2Gaming, I apologize. I must of read so fast that I skipped that paragraph. I went straight to the CPU-Z links









Well 320HTT is certainly quite impressive. You have plenty of room to push your processor overclock. I suppose Vcore and temps are your only speed bump.

Your memory overclock may be limited due to the IC's. Here's what I came up with on possible IC's that are on your set: Samsung TCB3, ProMOS 5ns (relabeled), Mosel Vitelic 5ns (relabeled) and Winbond CH-5.

Maybe Joe or Blitz can shed some light on this one.

Good luck bud


----------



## Choggs396

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, well done my friend









The overclock with 1.375volts is very nice. Did you test with Orthos with the small FFTs test just to see if it was stable for a few minutes? *Don't worry about your voltages at 1.425. That is still fairly low in my opinion. There won't be any "frying". As long as you have proper cooling and case airflow/ventilation then you are good to go.* Try and shoot for a stable 3Ghz overclock!

Next you need to find the limits of your motherboard (max HTT) and also your memory frequency. This will give us a better baseline.

Good luck









From what I've gathered; haven't the 90nm Athlon 64/X2/Opteron CPU's been known to tolerate ~1.5V core (or even higher) for 24/7 use without excessive or noticeable degradation (a.k.a. electromigration)? I could obviously be wrong, as this is simply anecdotal evidence based upon my observations. Your thoughts?


----------



## JEmmaB

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, well done my friend









The overclock with 1.375volts is very nice. Did you test with Orthos with the small FFTs test just to see if it was stable for a few minutes? Don't worry about your voltages at 1.425. That is still fairly low in my opinion. There won't be any "frying". As long as you have proper cooling and case airflow/ventilation then you are good to go. Try and shoot for a stable 3Ghz overclock!

Next you need to find the limits of your motherboard (max HTT) and also your memory frequency. This will give us a better baseline.

Good luck









I agree, I run my Opty 185 at 1.45v 24/7; and I'm from a tropical country.









The OC(suicide run) below is run at 1.55v.










Validation

Good Luck on your OC, N2!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
MikeV, I have a strong dislike for enabling the CPU Overvolt option. Despite the claims that enabling this option enables the much-ballyhooed "8-phase Power System," therefore endowing the system with more stability, on the A8N32-SLI Deluxes that I've played with (two), they made the system more unstable. Voltage regulation becomes quite inconsistent with this setting enabled, especially during load. This is obviously undesirable for overclocking.









I'm not sure what pio's experiences with this setting are, so I hope he weighs in as well.

I'd test and experiment, if I were you. It's possible that I had the incredible luck of having two boards where this feature was somehow faulty in implementation.







During testing, there's no harm done in finding out what *your* equipment can do.









Good luck! And hope this helps.









Enabling the CPU overvolt feature actually allowed me to change my vcore. With it disabled my voltages would always reset to the erroneous 1.39v no matter what I set it to in BIOS and Ive set it to 1.5v before.
While there is still some fluctuation, as Ive come to find out is common for this board. But at least its in the neighborhood of where I set it to. I.E. - I set vcore to 1.15v overvolt enabled @ 100% load it sits relatively steady between 1.348 - 1.36v. When not at load though it does idle @ 1.38v.

And what is this contest thing......Im going to try a new approach at getting over 3 ghz


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, I apologize. I must of read so fast that I skipped that paragraph. I went straight to the CPU-Z links









Well 320HTT is certainly quite impressive. You have plenty of room to push your processor overclock. I suppose Vcore and temps are your only speed bump.

Your memory overclock may be limited due to the IC's. Here's what I came up with on possible IC's that are on your set: Samsung TCB3, ProMOS 5ns (relabeled), Mosel Vitelic 5ns (relabeled) and Winbond CH-5.

Maybe Joe or Blitz can shed some light on this one.

Good luck bud









Don't sweat it think3r. I'm typing this while running orthose priority 9. is it normal for the othos to page while it's running. I was going to print screen the paging that I'm talking about but it only does it when it wants to and not when I want it to. any way ]this is where it sits right now

thanks Choggs & JE for backing up think3r with regards to cpu voltages. system is so slow when running orthos.


----------



## nuklearwax

I finally got to the 12,000 mark with some room to spare!


----------



## Choggs396

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nuklearwax*


I finally got to the 12,000 mark with some room to spare!










@[email protected] Wow... that is a very impressive score, indeed!


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Yo have not heard from you in a while. good to see ya still around.[/SIZE]


Thanks,
I am sorry that i have not been around but I must say i've been completely in another world.
I am rebuilding a motorcycle right now all the way through


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nuklearwax*


I finally got to the 12,000 mark with some room to spare!










dang!, Nice.... now get it higher


----------



## Bogeyone001

Does anyone here by chance know how to backup my own music from my ipod to my computer for free


----------



## BlackOmega

Ummm... itunes..... or cant you just connect it (even without itunes) and just pull the files right off of it?


----------



## Bogeyone001

yes for itunes and no you cant just pull the files off


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


So far I have been able to increase my 3Dmark06 score by 541 points @ 9126 seen here with a moderate overclock cpuz validation what do you all think about that...


Lol that's not bad at all. The SLI really helps, but my score is in my sig.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Thlnk3r: my computers have always had it enabled. Even when overclocked. I am just saying it is something to look at. Perhaps he has already turned it off, and enabling would fix it.


I couldn't find the Spread spectrum option in my bios.. Could it be reffered by other name?


----------



## JEmmaB

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bogeyone001* 
Does anyone here by chance know how to backup my own music from my ipod to my computer for free

iTunes must not be installed; and "hidden files and folders" option must be turned on. Once the ipod is connected to your pc; go to F:\\iPod_Control\\Music.

All your music is there just named differently.


----------



## pez

Ok, 2.57Ghz is stable (yet I can't get 2.6 to be stable). Update taht shiz







. This cooler also made my load temps go from about 60C and 59C to 53C and 50C. Yay!







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Lol that's not bad at all. The SLI really helps, but my score is in my sig.

Yea it helps.







and your only running oneGPU. I read on BFG's web sight that the 9600GT OC is 90% faster then the 8600 GTS. I think I'm gonna get that agp 6800gt oc for $40.00 and trade it in for the 9600GT OC. it will save me about 50-70 bucks depending on the deal at the time. Pez what is the program in the small window that's showing your cpu temps?


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Pez what is the program in the small window that's showing your cpu temps?

You mean Core Temp? Isn't that kinda obvious?


----------



## JEmmaB

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Pez what is the program in the small window that's showing your cpu temps?

Core Temp great prog, below is the link.









Core Temp


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
You mean Core Temp? Isn't that kinda obvious?









Not for a newb like me who don't have it never run or even seen it!









Thanks JE


----------



## JEmmaB

N2; no problem, anytime.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
I couldn't find the Spread spectrum option in my bios.. Could it be reffered by other name?


Our boards dont have a spread spectrum thingy mah-jag. The voltage on this board fluctuates all the time. It just one of its characteristics. I learned to live with it. I know it sux, I almost RMA'd my board because of it.
But try this - depending on what your desired end result voltage, set it to 0.20v less. Then enable the overvolt feature (which raises it 0.20v). This will enable the 8phase power management. On my board it works relatively well. Key word relatively. I have mine set so it works out to be 1.35v, @ idle itll sit higher than 1.35v (usually 1.36v, almost rock solid with the occaisonal bump to 1.38v) and under 100% load it fluctutates pretty good between 1.34-1.35v, but thats where its most important IMO. Idle voltages are kind of meaningless.


----------



## HothBase

By the way, I haven't been having so much time for playing games and such the last few days, but I still keep my PC on pretty much all the time while I'm awake so I decided that I don't really need my OC at the moment.
I figured I'd check out AMD's Cool'n'Quiet function and I think it's... Well it really _is_ cool









My idle temp is like 10Â°C cooler at 1.10V vcore, I suppose it prolongs the CPU's life too.
I can recommend it for others that haven't tried tried it out and have their computer idling alot


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Not for a newb like me who don't have it never run or even seen it!









Thanks JE

He meant it was obvious because its name is right in the titlebar


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
He meant it was obvious because its name is right in the titlebar
















Yup, sorry if I seemed rude N2


----------



## N2Gaming

Is it normal for one core to be 10C hotter then the other? LOOK

Hoth, that's good to know I think I'm going to set up all my pc's to utilize the hot keys for bios settings. that way I can push a hot key at boot up and select oc or stock. and I think I'll try using the cool & quiet feature when I'm not going to be playing any games.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


He meant it was obvious because its name is right in the titlebar

















 thanks, I figured that out after I started running the app.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


Yup, sorry if I seemed rude N2










No need to be sorry I know you were only teasing. Besides I don't let the little things like that bother me. If any thing I appriciate it. It show's me that you took the time to respond to my post either way you did it for me.







THNX


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Is it normal for one core to be 10C hotter then the other? LOOK


It is indeed normal and very common. My first core is actually idling 7Â°C hotter than my second core at the moment, so no worries there.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Choggs396* 
From what I've gathered; haven't the 90nm Athlon 64/X2/Opteron CPU's been known to tolerate ~1.5V core (or even higher) for 24/7 use without excessive or noticeable degradation (a.k.a. electromigration)? I could obviously be wrong, as this is simply anecdotal evidence based upon my observations. Your thoughts?

Choggs, that is certainly true. I took my 3600+ S939 up to 1.7volts without a hitch. I also believe Pioneer took his Opteron to some extreme level of voltage on air...I think he hit 1.8volts. He'll have to verify that for us. It's possible but how long can a processor run like that? I guess only time will tell until electromigration sets in.

JEmmaB, awesome OC









Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Don't sweat it think3r. I'm typing this while running orthose priority 9. is it normal for the othos to page while it's running. I was going to print screen the paging that I'm talking about but it only does it when it wants to and not when I want it to. any way ]this is where it sits right now

N2Gaming, the OS will assign most of it's resources towards the application at Priority 9. That explains for the extremely "slow speeds".

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Is it normal for one core to be 10C hotter then the other? LOOK

N2Gaming, my Opteron 170 has a 3-5C difference between both cores.

Hope that helps


----------



## N2Gaming

think3r. as always good info thanks. I was suspecting my zalman 9700 becuase it has a base surface smaller then the cpu IHS and it's not always easy to get it seated perfectly in the middle. It does completely cover the middle of the IHS and that's all I should really be concerned about right or wrong???


----------



## HothBase

There isn't really much to cool around the outer edges of the CPU as you can see in this pic of an opteron with the IHS removed


















The die in the center should be the biggest heat source.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hoth, I presume all the little chips on the outside of the main die are cache chips??? I have seriuosly been considering deliding my opty 180 and running it naked like yours. the photo you just posted makes it a little easier to determine how deep to run the blade when I cut the glue so I don't damage the little chips on the outside edges. kind of reminds me of the movie batteries not included.


----------



## thlnk3r

Hoth, thanks for clarifying. Funny that I mention your name...I'm watching empire strikes back right now









N2Gaming, as long as it's covering the middle of the IHS then you will be ok. This why a lot of us here in the club suggest only applying thermal compound in the middle of the IHS instead of spreading it.

Good luck guys









Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Hoth, I presume all the little chips on the outside of the main die are cache chips???

Those are actually just IC's that surround the die. The L1/L2 cache is on the die (if that is what you are referring to).


----------



## N2Gaming

Oh. silly me get's to further my free education. thanks think3r.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I have seriuosly been considering deliding my opty 180 and running it naked like yours.


It's not mine actually, I haven't had the privileges of owning an Opteron CPU just yet.
The picture comes from a quite useful thread (HERE) which I found with some help from joe









If you are planning on removing your IHS you might also find THIS post (joe again







) useful.


----------



## N2Gaming

so I'm sitting HERE right now with cvolt at 1.47 temps peeking at 64-65 that's too high for me. going to doctor to have cast removed I'll be back in a while.


----------



## pez

Haha N2, you could've just looked at the name in the box







. Jk, but temps are actually slowly dropping. Was hitting 40 on one core and 32 on the other yesterday. Now I'm at 38 and 32. I love this new HSF







. Just gave my mom my x-mas list:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16824009145

and

Matching one for aesthetics (b/c I care







).

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814150323


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


so I'm sitting HERE right now with cvolt at 1.47 temps peeking at 64-65 that's too high for me. going to doctor to have cast removed I'll be back in a while.










N2Gaming, there is no reason to have such a high HT speed. If you start to run into stability issues it might be wise to lower it. A multiplier of 3x would be something to think about. Other than that awesome OC









Good luck


----------



## majakone

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Haha N2, you could've just looked at the name in the box







. Jk, but temps are actually slowly dropping. Was hitting 40 on one core and 32 on the other yesterday. Now I'm at 38 and 32. I love this new HSF







. Just gave my mom my x-mas list:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16824009145

and

Matching one for aesthetics (b/c I care







).

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814150323



The Freezer Pro IS a VERY good cooler {after your burn in period} , been using mine forever and never any issues at all .... with a good lapping your temps should drop to around 26/28 idle and 40/45 under load max , suprises me that people pay $50+ for other coolers and just dont think twice about these because theyre only $25 ......







you might think about adding another 80mm fan on the exhaust side to help the airflow some {just a thought}


----------



## BlackOmega

Hmmmmmm.........naked eh.........hmmmm.........sounds very tempting........Might have to try it with my opty 165 first...............


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *majakone*


The Freezer Pro IS a VERY good cooler {after your burn in period} , been using mine forever and never any issues at all .... with a good lapping your temps should drop to around 26/28 idle and 40/45 under load max , suprises me that people pay $50+ for other coolers and just dont think twice about these because theyre only $25 ......







you might think about adding another 80mm fan on the exhaust side to help the airflow some {just a thought}


Yeah, I'm going to take a look into lapping it one day, but it's fine for now. My exhaust fan though is actually doing a very good job at pushing that air out. I can tell that the AC Freezer has been pushing a lot more air than that opteron stock one. I'm definitely a very satisfied customer







. To think I was going to buy a Zalman 9700NT just for aesthetics







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hmmmmmm.........naked eh.........hmmmm.........sounds very tempting........Might have to try it with my opty 165 first...............


well if you look anything like your avatar then pm me your pic's


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


well if you look anything like your avatar then pm me your pic's


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*





























Quick question to everyone about naked cpu's. I was thinging about taking a flat piece of plastic from a one gallon water jugg and cut out the center hole and the outside border of my cpu socket housing or bracket so that I can use it as a sleave/shield instead of puting electrical tape over the exposed IC's. What is everyones take on this???


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


so I'm sitting HERE right now with cvolt at 1.47 temps peeking at 64-65 that's too high for me. going to doctor to have cast removed I'll be back in a while.











1.47Vcore? Geez man...that thing ain't seated right. I have my Vcore there right now, as that's what my mobo thinks is stock, and I'm loading at 35-38.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


1.47Vcore? Geez man...that thing ain't seated right. I have my Vcore there right now, as that's what my mobo thinks is stock, and I'm loading at 35-38.


naturally you have a great cpu cooler and what cpu are you running btw. how many watts how big is the cache?


----------



## TestECull

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
naturally you have a great cpu cooler and what cpu are you running btw. how many watts how big is the cache?


My 939 rig is my sig rig...:\\

And even when I did run my sig proc on a stock cooler, at this voltage, still didn't load higher than 45...

I had to use 1.65Vcore to get temps over 55, and at that Vcore my proc was putting out almost 200W TDP. Crazy...


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
My 939 rig is my sig rig...:

And even when I did run my sig proc on a stock cooler, at this voltage, still didn't load higher than 45...

I had to use 1.65Vcore to get temps over 55, and at that Vcore my proc was putting out almost 200W TDP. Crazy...

so is that proc a 65, 85 or 110watt like mine? plus 2Mb cache makes it run a little hotter. I guess you think my zalman is better then your cooler or something. I Idle at like core 0 33 & core 1 40C. Right. now I'm underclocked trying to find max ram OC once again and core1 gets to 55 core0 gets to 45 so you want me to remove hs and reseat to passify you or what???


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
so you want me to remove hs and reseat to passify you or what???


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey TestE: I'll tell you what. when I'm ready to go naked I'll be ready to remove the HS.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I think the crucial difference is that TestE's chip is a single-core.







Those never get anywhere near as warm as a dual-core would.

Apples to grapes comparison, no?


----------



## N2Gaming

textmasterjoe, thanks for clearing the air. it's was getting a little hot in my cpu.







How much of a temperature drop do you think would be the norm for removing the IHS?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


textmasterjoe, thanks for clearing the air. it's was getting a little hot in my cpu.







How much of a temperature drop do you think would be the norm for removing the IHS?


I would say you could expect a drop anywhere between 5-10 degrees C. Kind of hard to say definitively, to be honest, but 5-10 degrees C really is a big drop, in my opinion.


----------



## N2Gaming

thanks. I'm practicing removing the IHS on my a64 3500+ I'll let you all know how it goes.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


thanks. I'm practicing removing the IHS on my a64 3500+ I'll let you all know how it goes.










I, for one, wait with bated breath, N2G.









Jeez, I had enough gumption to clean up my room and get restarted on OCing.







But my lazy butt would just rather listen to a "'The White Album': Forty Years Later" on NPR.


----------



## N2Gaming

ya I'm waiting to. is it easier if I warm the cpu up so the glue is not as hard. I just pulled it from my garage at like 40F so it's a little cold. I was thinking I could just take a hair dryer to it for about a couple of minutes or so. as is I keep breaking the little tips off of my exacto blades.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


ya I'm waiting to. is it easier if I warm the cpu up so the glue is not as hard. I just pulled it from my garage at like 40F so it's a little cold. I was thinking I could just take a hair dryer to it for about a couple of minutes or so. as is I keep breaking the little tips off of my exacto blades.


Whenever I want to take a cooler off of the CPU, I always take it through a one-minute run at full load (such as with Orthos or OCCT or whatever else), then shut down. I then open up the case and unseat the heatsink; that TIM is always soft as butter.


----------



## N2Gaming

Are we talking about the same thing. sounds like your talking about removing the heasink and fan. I have the cpu in my hand on a flat surface. I'm wondering if heating the cpu will turn the glue into butter.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Are we talking about the same thing. sounds like your talking about removing the heasink and fan. I have the cpu in my hand on a flat surface. I'm wondering if heating the cpu will turn the glue into butter.


















D'oh! My bad, N2G.

Thanks for clarifying.

Heating up the chip prior to slicing through the glue (or as a means of removing the IHS from the CPU) will do nothing. Think about it for a sec: We routinely subject these chips to temperatures much hotter than the temperature a hair dryer can put out... and yet the IHS never goes off...


----------



## N2Gaming

ok I was just thinking that it might soften it just enough to make it easier. as is It almost got to hot for me to hold.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
ok I was just thinking that it might soften it just enough to make it easier. as is It almost got to hot for me to hold.

You could try the opposite approach, though I have never ever tried this myself: Some people say that putting the chip in the freezer makes the glue holding the IHS onto the chip's PCB more brittle (and therefore easier to slice through). I've never tried this technique out before, though, so I can't vouch for its effectiveness.


----------



## N2Gaming

well i pulled mine from my garage about a 1/2 hour ago and it was close to freezing and I was finding it a little difficult and I feel scratching and I don't know if it's the lid or the pcp so I'm already scared that I may have already killed it. no point in stopping now. I'm going for broke or shazammmmm







ghetto modding to the rescue.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
well i pulled mine from my garage about a 1/2 hour ago and it was close to freezing and I was finding it a little difficult and I feel scratching and I don't know if it's the lid or the pcp so I'm already scared that I may have already killed it. no point in stopping now. I'm going for broke or shazammmmm







ghetto modding to the rescue.









Let nothing stop you!


----------



## N2Gaming

fear no evil ha ha ha ha game on wayne. game on garth rollin rollin rollin keep this processor rollin. silly me I got work to do.


----------



## N2Gaming

Ok now all I have to do is clean it up, install it into the nf4 expert "el cheapo the one I got on ebay" board and see what I got. hopefully not







of pain but







of joy. fingers crossed. oh yeah can I use milk jugg plastic as a shield to keep the heatsink off the ic's?


----------



## thlnk3r

Joe, good point made in regards to stressing the processor with OCCT/Orthos before removing the cooler. That should make the process much easier. I will definitely try that next time.

N2Gaming, keep us posted. Hopefully we get a POST screen!

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

ha 1 fngr typn cause i got zalman grs on index fngr. wont be long now. ezyer said then done!!! i was thnkn i cld use my stk 3500+ hs but block is to big. thn i was gld i had the extra zalman


----------



## pioneerisloud

Anybody care to give me a fair craigslist appraisal? The guys so far are REALLY lowballing me...seems they are giving me OCN prices. Link here.


----------



## N2Gaming

Ok she lived. I'm in bios now and cpu temp is 32 in bios. I was expecting it to be lower since there is no load. any way I'll play in bios for a few minutes and then try to boot.


----------



## N2Gaming

See there's nothing to it







look she's alive

http://imageups.com/files/82/exacto%20%26%20visegrips.JPG[/IMG]]picture1 http://imageups.com/files/82/exacto%20blade%20%26%20visegrips.JPG[/IMG]]picture2



















I really learned a lot today thanks to everyone


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Ok she lived. I'm in bios now and cpu temp is 32 in bios. I was expecting it to be lower since there is no load. any way I'll play in bios for a few minutes and then try to boot.


















Did you make sure your cooler is seating properly? cuz Im sittin here with a clothed? cpu @ 29*c in a 79*f room. I read from those other links that you might have to trim down the retention bracket a couple of mm's.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Enabling the overvoltage cpu makes my system unstable. System won't go to power on state after restarting.. Bad thing is the new psu isn't here yet to check if it's the psu or the mobo. "Really fast" delivery times in Greece


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Ok she lived. I'm in bios now and cpu temp is 32 in bios. I was expecting it to be lower since there is no load. any way I'll play in bios for a few minutes and then try to boot.

















Actually there is load in bios..


----------



## pez

Oh joe...you've still yet to update my thingy







.

http://www.overclock.net/4975144-post9282.html


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


See there's nothing to it







look she's alive

I really learned a lot today thanks to everyone










Woot! Ya got'er nekked









I noticed some very nice temp drops when I did with my Opty.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


Enabling the overvoltage cpu makes my system unstable. System won't go to power on state after restarting.. Bad thing is the new psu isn't here yet to check if it's the psu or the mobo. "Really fast" delivery times in Greece










I've noticed the same behavior with my board, as well. Yet another reason why I don't use "CPU Overvolt" on my A8N32-SLI Deluxe.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Oh joe...you've still yet to update my thingy







.

http://www.overclock.net/4975144-post9282.html


Will do, pez, sometime later in the day. I just woke up, and am about to leave the apartment to make the trek to my parents' house right now.










But before I do leave, a message to all of our Club members:

*Happy Thanksgiving*, everyone. I, for one, am *VERY THANKFUL* to each and everyone of you. You make this Club what it is; I firmly believe this is one of OCN's very best, and it's all because of you. Congratulations, and thank you!

I'll see you all later!


----------



## pez

Yes, Happy Thanksgiving to all. G.O. I'm gonna just tell blitz to let you get the Redlines







. He was telling me that they didn't run very stable at DDR500+ with 4 gigs, and I like my OC, so I'm gonna have to venture another direction







. I guess whenever blitz logs on, just let him know







.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I've noticed the same behavior with my board, as well. Yet another reason why I don't use "CPU Overvolt" on my A8N32-SLI Deluxe.









Will do, pez, sometime later in the day. I just woke up, and am about to leave the apartment to make the trek to my parents' house right now.









But before I do leave, a message to all of our Club members:

*Happy Thanksgiving*, everyone. I, for one, am *VERY THANKFUL* to each and everyone of you. You make this Club what it is; I firmly believe this is one of OCN's very best, and it's all because of you. Congratulations, and thank you!

I'll see you all later!










Back at ya Joe. Everyone have a safe and full Holiday. Eats lots of turkey


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Yes, Happy Thanksgiving to all. G.O. I'm gonna just tell blitz to let you get the Redlines







. He was telling me that they didn't run very stable at DDR500+ with 4 gigs, and I like my OC, so I'm gonna have to venture another direction







. I guess whenever blitz logs on, just let him know







.


Sweet! Thanks Pez. I'll shoot Mr. Blitz a PM shortly


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Did you make sure your cooler is seating properly? cuz Im sittin here with a clothed? cpu @ 29*c in a 79*f room. I read from those other links that you might have to trim down the retention bracket a couple of mm's.

Honestly I don't think trimming the fat off the retention bracket is going to help. my zalman only touches the cpu and nothing else so there is nothing keeping it from making 100% contact, unless the zalman itself is off center and the weight has it learning more to one side then another.

Happy Thanksgiving all you s939'ers


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Sweet! Thanks Pez. I'll shoot Mr. Blitz a PM shortly

Yeah, he was saying your were having problems with yours, so you def. need it more than I.

EDIT: 4 more pages!


----------



## JEmmaB

Update of my 512MB x 4 mems OC.









CPU @ 1.5v
Memory @ 2.92v




























4 more pages to go and it's 939.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
*Happy Thanksgiving*, everyone. I, for one, am *VERY THANKFUL* to each and everyone of you. You make this Club what it is; I firmly believe this is one of OCN's very best, and it's all because of you. Congratulations, and thank you!

I'll see you all later!


























I haven't really been posting here much, as I've been trying to just leave my computer alone so that I don't break anything







.

BTW: I lost power on teusday night and used it as an excuse to rebuild my computer. I left the mobo/cpu/ram/heatsink all intact, and swapped out my Ultra 600w (which had an unbalanced fan and made a clicking sound when I didn't have a paper napkin blocking the intake







) for my newish TT 430w (Less extra wires). I had been running my 600w from on top of the case, to improve temps, but it was unnecessary and just made more clutter, so I now have the 430w inside the case







.
I also removed one of the 120mm fans on my GPU cooler, and now just have one fan blowing from the front of the case through the heatsink (I'm kind of scared that Vmemory will get too hot though, so I think I'm going to at least put the one fan back on the heatsink normally).

It turns out I had been running my RAM at DDR540 by accident for the last few months, and I just turned it down because I removed the 80mm cpu exhaust fan and a 120mm fan I had as intake in my drive bays. I also took my CPU down from 2750 to 2700MHz.

*edit:* nice clocks JEmma! Does the extra VCore increase temps much? I don't think my wee little ACFPro could handle it







. Does anybody have any experience with GSkill ddr500s? I can't find the voltage they're running at ATM, but the SPD is 2.5v (I believe the warranty covers 2.6-2.8, and IIRC I'm running them at 2.7)
*edit again:* I am still considering finding a stable point for my memory. As far as I can tell they were stable at 540mhz, but it would be awesome if I could get them to 600 (In my dreams







). Knowing me I'll damage them though, as they have the stock heatsinks on with fairly little cooling (just air pulled over them from my cpu fan).

Totally off topic: When I rebuilt my rig, I flipped the harddrives around backwards. It looks so much cleaner! If your IDE cables will fit/reach, I totally recommend doing this (Unless you need to swap out your drives often, because this is a pain to do







).

*loledit:* Sorry for the text wall







. Just for reference, idle temps are 28-35, normal load temps (1 instance of CMD folding, one GPU folding client, loading steam) are about 40 and 50, and Orthos prio9 load temps are 41-44 and 55. This is all at 2.7Ghz with 1.4V and 245mhz memory.


----------



## JEmmaB

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
















*edit:* nice clocks JEmma! Does the extra VCore increase temps much?

The extra VCore does increase temps be sure to have a dedicated fan cooling your mems.









I really love the bandwidth; my DDR1 out bandwidths my DDR2 1066.


----------



## nategr8ns

holy crap!
that doesn't make sense to me, is it just the way the memory works? I thought all DDR ram works essentially the same (I.e. about same bandwidth per clock, although DDR2 would do slightly better). I guess I was wrong







.


----------



## JEmmaB

IMO; S939 is still the "Optimal Socket Architecture" for the current AMD processors, it is a more mature product compared to the AM2; in terms of design and development. While AM2's development was clearly rushed in order to play catch-up with Intel's DDR2 lineup.

This maybe explains why AM2 mobos cannot fully optimize DDR2 memory.


----------



## nategr8ns

oh so its a motherboard/mem controller thing, not a memory thing?


----------



## JEmmaB

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
oh so its a motherboard/mem controller thing, not a memory thing?

With regards to 939 and AM2 it probably is, not that I had done any conclusive research; but for what I've tested using my AM2+ mobo running FX-62 with DDR2 800 OC to DDR2 1000+, Everest clearly shows that my DDR1 out bandwidths my DDR2.









Or maybe I have crappy DDR2 mems and AM2+ mobo.


----------



## nategr8ns

wow, thats a pretty big difference too! at least from what I can tell, it's kind of hard to read







.


----------



## JEmmaB

Sorry 'bout the size; below are larger pics.


----------



## N2Gaming

I think ddr is able to outbandwith amd ddr2 becuase of the ram timings. If you set the ddr to the same spd's as the ddr2 what would the results look like for bandwidth?


----------



## JEmmaB

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I think ddr is able to outbandwith amd ddr2 becuase of the ram timings. If you set the ddr to the same spd's as the ddr2 what would the results look like for bandwidth?

Haven't tried to set my DDR1 to DDR2 timings.

But doing such will only loosen my DDR1's timings and the DDR2 will still have speed advantage.

DDR1 is at 3-4-4-8 CL2 rated speed 570
DDR2 is at 5-5-5-15 CL2 rated speed 1035

Theoretically DDR2 should be faster than DDR1; irregardless of the timing.


----------



## N2Gaming

So your talking about Ram frequency spd of ddr 500 compared to ddr2 1066. yes theretically you would think it should be faster. Don't forget you have to consider when you change the amount of time you system has to waite to write and read info then your not actually running faster. that's like having a v8 motor governed to run slower then a v6. If you could run your ram with 1T command clock with those overclocks @ 3Ghz or what ever you have those two PC's OC'd to, then I'm pretty sure you would be amazed at the bandwidth. Of course I could be wrong but this is what I can remember from reading around.


----------



## JEmmaB

N2; maybe I should read a bit and do more tests.









BTW; running 1T with 4 x 512MB DDR1 can be quite a feat.

Thanks for the info.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 

*Happy Thanksgiving*, everyone.


----------



## N2Gaming

Like I said I could be wrong. I have a shady memory chip inside my melon some times it transposes things that I remember and makes me look like a dufus. Any way I'd be interested in the results. I just booted up my a64 3500+ w/some ddr pc2700 w/all auto bios settings and my read is at 1935 and latency is at 74.2







ddr251 2.5-3-3-6 so I think ram frequency plays a part as well as cpu frequency and htt. I think the higher the htt the faster information will travel along your mobo bus from cpu to your ram then the timings come in to play. let's wait to read and wait to write is basically what the timings are saying to you. I should do some more reading as well. Only problem for me is I have a hard time remembering stuff w/o the hands on experience to verify information learned from literature.


----------



## thlnk3r

N2Gaming, congrats on the de-lidding. Job well done









JEmmaB, awesome bandwidth numbers. I'm sure Blitz would be proud as well.

Happy Thanksgiving everyone! 3hrs 16minutes until I start consuming food...


----------



## pioneerisloud

*Happy Turkey Day Everyone!!!!!!!!!!*

From pio (the head boob) and froggy (the one with boobs).


----------



## BlackOmega

Happy turkey day!!!!!!!!!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JEmmaB*


N2; maybe I should read a bit and do more tests.









BTW; running 1T with 4 x 512MB DDR1 can be quite a feat.

Thanks for the info.










 My rig would not run my 4x512 sticks at 1T no matter how loose the timings were set to. I think 1T and 2T has to do with how modules you have in the slots. IMO, I believe it tells the chip that theres either 2 sticks or 4. Could be wrong I am kind of new to the memory OCing thing, but just look at my timings


----------



## pez

Mmmm tommorow is going to be a hectic day. $10 games, cheap electronics...can't wait. I may even splurge a little for the gf :O.

Today will be happy Thanksgiving and happy 939 day as well







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, congrats on the de-lidding. Job well done










Thanks. I'm trying to use it in one of the dfi boards I got off ebay nf4 sli dr and I think the southbridge is bad. that would be the chip that controls ide and pci right???

edit: had a bad ide cable. I'll check the pci later after finish loading os.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


My rig would not run my 4x512 sticks at 1T no matter how loose the timings were set to. I think 1T and 2T has to do with how modules you have in the slots. IMO, I believe it tells the chip that theres either 2 sticks or 4. Could be wrong I am kind of new to the memory OCing thing, but just look at my timings










possibly I honestly don't know if it matters. I'll test it next week some time when I get my other two 1gig sticks of ocz plats. 4 gig not that I need it all for one rig. sure will be nice if they are all the same ic's. Maybe the densities or IC's have something to do w/it as well being able to run all 4 at 1T.


----------



## HothBase

Happy Thanksgiving to all those who celebrate it









What do you think of my new avatar guys? Not too bad for something made in mspaint if I may say so myslef


----------



## N2Gaming

not to shabby, I used photo shop 5.5 and image ready 2.0 I wish I knew how to use photo shop man I would do some cool things. let my imagination run free. I'm free I'm free.


----------



## HothBase

I've actually never used photoshop, even though I think I have a CD lying around here somewhere... I suppose I should try to find some kind of photoshop for dummies on the net as well


----------



## N2Gaming

you can do some really cool professional stuff with it. web pages etc. fair warning it has a lot of tools and features that take a long time to get to know and my problem is remembering the stuff I learn. I have the adobe classroom in a book published by adobe and I have the creating shockwave for web pages published by que. never used either one of them much. maybe some day I'll spend more time with my head in the books.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


My rig would not run my 4x512 sticks at 1T no matter how loose the timings were set to. I think 1T and 2T has to do with how modules you have in the slots. IMO, I believe it tells the chip that theres either 2 sticks or 4. Could be wrong I am kind of new to the memory OCing thing, but just look at my timings










BlackOmega, the performance differences between 1T and 2T are very minimal. The command rate (CR) determines the speed between the memory controller and the memory banks. It basically controls when the IMC is going to start sending commands to the memory. Some swear 1T is so much better but honestly I can't tell a difference unless I run a benchmark. I was lucky enough to get my 4x512 Corsair XMS set to run at 2-3-2-6 1T on my Asus A8N-SLI (stock Vdimm).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Mmmm tommorow is going to be a hectic day. $10 games, cheap electronics...can't wait. I may even splurge a little for the gf :O.

Today will be happy Thanksgiving and happy 939 day as well







.


Pez, do you know what stores are having ridiculous sales tomorrow?

Good luck guys









EDIT: In regards to Photoshop, I did mine and Joe's avatar in it(just cleaned them up). May want to hit up Guardian, he might have PS skills.


----------



## N2Gaming

new egg has the antec ninehundred for $59.00 free shipping. I think I'll grab one to further the BNB project.

Hey hoth one other place you might try to find a cheap book once you know what you want is half priced books


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, the performance differences between 1T and 2T are very minimal. The command rate (CR) determines the speed between the memory controller and the memory banks. It basically controls when the IMC is going to start sending commands to the memory. Some swear 1T is so much better but honestly I can't tell a difference unless I run a benchmark. I was lucky enough to get my 4x512 Corsair XMS set to run at 2-3-2-6 1T on my Asus A8N-SLI (stock Vdimm).

Pez, do you know what stores are having ridiculous sales tomorrow?

Good luck guys









EDIT: In regards to Photoshop, I did mine and Joe's avatar in it(just cleaned them up). May want to hit up Guardian, he might have PS skills.

Well I know RadioShack and Best Buy are exciting for me. I've been wanting assassin's creed and rainbow six vegas 2, which are both $10 for PC. And radioshack is selling 100 disc packs for $10. I have to take out my gf this weekend, so I have to hold back







.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Well I know RadioShack and Best Buy are exciting for me. I've been wanting assassin's creed and rainbow six vegas 2, which are both $10 for PC. And radioshack is selling 100 disc packs for $10. I have to take out my gf this weekend, so I have to hold back







.

Pez, are most of the places opening up at the crack of dawn?

Sorry to get off topic guys


----------



## majakone

Hey guys can i join your group? cant get my cpuz to link up but i have a picture of it in my profile ??


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


I've actually never used photoshop, even though I think I have a CD lying around here somewhere... I suppose I should try to find some kind of photoshop for dummies on the net as well










google is your friend







. I used it to help me learn to use photoshop CS2 (I only recently started dabbling in the pen tool, but supposedly its amazingly useful if you know how







). If there is a specific thing you want to do (like "water" or "ripples" for instance) search that on google (i.e. "photoshop water tutorial"). Worked for me







.


----------



## JEmmaB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


JEmmaB, awesome bandwidth numbers. I'm sure Blitz would be proud as well.


Thanks, I quite happy with it.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


My rig would not run my 4x512 sticks at 1T no matter how loose the timings were set to. I think 1T and 2T has to do with how modules you have in the slots. IMO, I believe it tells the chip that theres either 2 sticks or 4. Could be wrong I am kind of new to the memory OCing thing, but just look at my timings










1T at 4 x 512MB sticks is near impossible to achieve, heck running 4 sticks at DDR 400 is quite hard, you have to test each memory module and seat the weaker ones to the slot nearest to the proc.

I have just been lucky with my mems.


----------



## Blitz6804

Happy Thanksgiving to all Americans. To everyone else, happy Thursday. As you can tell, I am not all here, but let me get a few quick things.

JEmmaB: I am going to say it is a miscalibrated AM2. My AM2 rig runs about 9300 MBps with around 45 ns when running DDR2 813. AMD loves timings, not speed. Consider dropping the divider and tightening the latencies to see if it fixes.

BlackOmega: The difference of 1T/2T can vary. The slower the RAM runs, the bigger the difference. On DDR 500, the difference between the two is smaller than DDR 400, which in turn has a smaller difference than DDR 333. As Thlnk3r has said though, the difference behind the keyboard is negligible, likely not even equating to a frame per second, but it does make a difference in benchmarking. If you can get 1T, great. If not, no big deal.

GuardianOdin: I just sent you a PM. Ignore it. I will be sending another shortly.

badave: Welcome aboard! I will update the offsite roster as soon as I get back to Buffalo.

majakone: That works for me; welcome to the club! A 3.1 GHz Opteron 175? I like. Like badave, I will add you to the offsite roster as soon as I return.


----------



## BlackOmega

Ive gotten my 4 sticks of 512 to run SUPER tight timings before. Like 2-2-2-5 but of course it was @ 2T. But whatever, I didnt notice any performance increase whatsoever. Even with the corasir sticks I havent noticed a difference @ 1T, tell you honestly.

Well i finally ordered a new CPU cooler. Big typhoon lol, and I swore Id never order another thermaltake product....... Couldnt help it, 19.99 + free shipping. Ill be sure to lap that mamma jamma as soon as I get it. Then I might even go naked on one of my CPU's and see if I can get it over 3ghz.
I found this great article about L1 cache failures (which is what I was failing when going too high)... turns out its voltage related. But you gotta find just the perfect amount so theres no migration (from what I gathered anyway).

if you guys wanna read it, here it is (be warned its VERY technical) -

WOOOT page 939!!!!!!


----------



## JEmmaB

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
JEmmaB: I am going to say it is a miscalibrated AM2. My AM2 rig runs about 9300 MBps with around 45 ns when running DDR2 813. AMD loves timings, not speed. Consider dropping the divider and tightening the latencies to see if it fixes.

Thanks for the analysis and advice; now I need to find what went wrong.

Welcome badave and majakone!









And oh we are on page 939!


----------



## N2Gaming

What time is it: 939









Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Ive gotten my 4 sticks of 512 to run SUPER tight timings before. Like 2-2-2-5 but of course it was @ 2T. But whatever, I didnt notice any performance increase whatsoever. Even with the corasir sticks I havent noticed a difference @ 1T, tell you honestly.
WOOOT page 939!!!!!!


How are those corsairs for overclocking. what is the max ddr spd you could get out of them. Fo far I have not been able to push my ocz plats past ddr441. I was thinking about getting some redlines or balistix tracer and I saw the xms so I'm undecided due to limited quantities/prices available. where are you getting that big typhoon? sorry for all the questions.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*









What time is it: 939









How are those corsairs for overclocking. what is the max ddr spd you could get out of them. Fo far I have not been able to push my ocz plats past ddr441. I was thinking about getting some redlines or balistix tracer and I saw the xms so I'm undecided due to limited quantities/prices available. where are you getting that big typhoon? sorry for all the questions.


 Tell you honestly I dont even know I havent had the time to test em.... Im just running em at ddr401







. I havent been able to finish testing my cpu due to heat constraints and migration @ high temps. Hopefully once I get my new cooler, lap it and get some good load temps, Ill start on the ram.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pez, are most of the places opening up at the crack of dawn?

Sorry to get off topic guys


I think my local RatShack is opening around 5-6am EST. I'm not worried about Best Buy though until Sat. Gonna stop by there before the movies to check it out (I live in a very small town, and the BB is about 40-60 minutes away). This isn't a gaming town as far as PCs







.

ROAR! I got a post on page 939







.


----------



## BlackOmega

So your saying radio shack and best buy are having a gaiming blow out for $10/game? I might have to go stock up.


----------



## GuardianOdin

939!


----------



## HothBase

Welcome to all new members! Page 939, huh? Can't wait until we reach 939 members


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Well I know RadioShack and Best Buy are exciting for me. I've been wanting assassin's creed and rainbow six vegas 2, which are both $10 for PC. And radioshack is selling 100 disc packs for $10. I have to take out my gf this weekend, so I have to hold back







.


Hey pez I only see a $19.00 ps3 vegas two on the online add. do you have a news paper add for best buy or what. I'd like to have those games for that price.


----------



## pez

Ah, well I was just interested in Assassin's Creed. It's $10 if you look online for best buy.

Har, I rightfully claim the 9,390th post







.


----------



## Blitz6804

Post 9390... Joy? (Pez simulpost FTL.)

Anyway, Kohl's is opening at 4. Best Buy at 5. They have a nice TV for $1400. 52" 1080p I think.


----------



## BlackOmega

well All I gotta say to that is


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Post 9390... Joy? (Pez simulpost FTL.)

Anyway, Kohl's is opening at 4. Best Buy at 5. They have a nice TV for $1400. 52" 1080p I think.


Tigerdirect has 52" 1080p for under a grand......


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Ah, well I was just interested in Assassin's Creed. It's $10 if you look online for best buy.

Har, I rightfully claim the 9,390th post







.

I see it sold out online. With my luck the same will hold true at the store. I don't do crowds to well at 6 in the morning unless it's the police at my door.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I feel no joy at page 939.

For sure because I'm one of those turkeys who has his posts-per-page set at 40.









Please welcome our newest member, majakone!







Glad to have you jump on board our happy little vessel!


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 







I feel no joy at page 939.

For sure because I'm one of those turkeys who has his posts-per-page set at 40.









Please welcome our newest member, majakone!







Glad to have you jump on board our happy little vessel!

lol me too


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Post 9390... Joy? (Pez simulpost FTL.)

Anyway, Kohl's is opening at 4. Best Buy at 5. They have a nice TV for $1400. 52" 1080p I think.

Well Blitz it's actually fitting since you have a 940 pin CPU now







. I'm getting ready to head out to a few places. I'm seriously going to fight people today. Not for products, but if someone actually does something snobby, then you might just see me on the news.

"Did you really just take that game out of my hand?"
"Yep"
"Aww h**l no"
*smack*


----------



## majakone

THANKS FOR THE WELCOME , HOPE EVERYONES THANKSGIVING WAS A GOOD ONE


----------



## loveduckie

Hey,

I don't have some sort of 31337 or insane overclock on my s939 3500+ but it's a nice chip and I still use it. For what it's doing atm I think it's really efficient at it ergo meaning I appreciate it.

Can I go on the roster too?


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *loveduckie* 
Can I go on the roster too?









Download CPU-Z and give us an online validation link or simply a screenshot of it. I'm pretty sure we'll let you in


----------



## loveduckie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
Download CPU-Z and give us an online validation link or simply a screenshot of it. I'm pretty sure we'll let you in









Alright, i'm currently not at home at the moment but i'll make sure that goes on my list of things to do when I get home.

Thanks


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Post 9390... Joy? (Pez simulpost FTL.)

Anyway, Kohl's is opening at 4. Best Buy at 5. They have a nice TV for $1400. 52" 1080p I think.


Sorry for being off topic but I notice you use FTL from time to time and *F*or *T*he *L*ife of me I can't figure out what it stands for. here is a couple of things I found during google search.

AcronymDefinitionFTLFaster Than LightFTLFaster Than Light (Xenosaga game)FTLFort Lauderdale (Florida)FTLFlash Translation Layer (media format for linear flash memory)FTLFollow The Leader (Korn album)FTLFree Talk LiveFTLFull Truck LoadFTLFreedom to Learn (Michigan)FTLFruit of the LoomFTLFor the LossFTLFor the LoseFTLFederal Tax LienFTLFor the LadiesFTLFeel the LoveFTLFerritin Light ChainFTLFor the LordFTLField Team LeaderFTLFor the LulzFTLFlight Time LimitFTLFar Target LocatorFTLFinancial Transactions for LawyersFTLFlight Telecommunications LaboratoryFTLFinancial Transaction LedgerFTLForget The Law (polite form)FTLFriends Turned LoversFTL
Fixed Term License

AND one that I came up with. For The Looser









Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*









I feel no joy at page 939.

For sure because I'm one of those turkeys who has his posts-per-page set at 40.









Please welcome our newest member, majakone!







Glad to have you jump on board our happy little vessel!


Hey Joe, then don't be a turkey, eat a turkey.









I Welcomes all our newest members.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


"Did you really just take that game out of my hand?"
"Yep"
"Aww h**l no" 
*smack*


----------



## thlnk3r

Welcome to the club Majakone


----------



## N2Gaming

hey thinker? will the sli dr board hesitate to open aps like cpuz if I'm only running 1x 256MB of pc2700 ram. I'm trying this board out from ebay purchase and just got it to boot with 315 fsb won't do 320. will upping the chipset or ldt voltage help inprove the fsb spd to 320 and beyond?


----------



## Blitz6804

N2Gaming: FTL is the oposite of FTW, which are "For the Lose" and "For the Win" respectively. Pez... I sent you a bunch of messages on AIM, but you are not around. Hopefully, you got them.


----------



## N2Gaming

thnx


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


hey thinker? will the sli dr board hesitate to open aps like cpuz if I'm only running 1x 256MB of pc2700 ram.


N2Gaming, I'm not to sure if you're referring to speed but 1*256MB in Windows XP would probably show some slowness issues. I suppose it wouldn't hurt to try. I've ran a few vm's of Win2k3 with 256MB of memory and it was great all though those were only used for single application testing.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I'm trying this board out from ebay purchase and just got it to boot with 315 fsb won't do 320. will upping the chipset or ldt voltage help inprove the fsb spd to 320 and beyond?


If you haven't already raised the chipset voltage at 315HTT then I'd advice doing so. I'm running the stock chipset voltage on my DFI board at 300HTT. I love how these boards can clock so high on stock chipset voltage.

Don't worry about the LDT voltage unless you decide to raise your HT (LDT).

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

thanks. Presently I am using only 256MB and noticing some slowness of apps laoding/starting up. I'm hoping the slowness is related to the ram and not motherboard issue. So for spds over fsb 300 I should start to raise chipset voltage for stablility. I asked about these two voltages because I'm faliling orthose priority 9 in pretty quick times. I'll lower the fsb to 300 and run orthose again.


----------



## pez

Ahh sorry bltiz, on my dad's lappy, haven't even walked up stairsin awhile. This keyboard sucksss.


----------



## majakone

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


thanks. Presently I am using only 256MB and noticing some slowness of apps laoding/starting up. I'm hoping the slowness is related to the ram and not motherboard issue. So for spds over fsb 300 I should start to raise chipset voltage for stablility. I asked about these two voltages because I'm faliling orthose priority 9 in pretty quick times. I'll lower the fsb to 300 and run orthose again.


as far as the chipset voltage goes , had to bump mine up 1 notch to hit 345 x 9







pretty much the same board you have


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *majakone*


as far as the chipset voltage goes , had to bump mine up 1 notch to hit 345 x 9







pretty much the same board you have


thanks. I have an expert board at my disposal as well but it might have some issues. So for now I'm putting most of my attention towards the two sli dr boards.









Hey pez. I got lucky after running around like a chicken with my head cut off I finall found bioshock and assasins creed both for $10.00 at best buy. So I figured I'd buy two of each and sell sell one set on ebay in the hopes of getting these games for free or at leas as close to it as possible. thanks for the tip.









I tried to get anther antec nine hundred at newegg and apparently they are all sold out.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, the WRT54G allows up to 253 DHCP users. The device you linked us to will work (both devices are 802.11g) all though you are limited to the USB 2.0 specification. I hardly doubt it will effect performance though. I have a USB wireless device in my laptop and it gets identical download speeds as my machine does.


think3r. I got lucky and found *This* version 6 for $25.00 locally on craiglist. I also finally received *This* but turns out I was shipped version 3xxx and only version 5xxx will support xp-pro-x64-bit. So I either gotta wait for dec 3rd when belkin customer service comes back from Thanks giving vacation to exchange it for a version 5xxx or find a version 5xxx in a store somewhere locally and return this one later on down the road.


----------



## pez

Well guys, all of a sudden, for some reason, my GFX card started not reading the clock speeds. It reads the temps, but none of the clock speeds. So I'm thinking it could be driver related, going to download the last version of WHQL (currently running 180.48) and see if that's the problem. But I have been running the latest ones for a good week now and it just now started doing this. You guys think it could be my mobo







? I really hope that's not the case.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Well guys, all of a sudden, for some reason, my GFX card started not reading the clock speeds. It reads the temps, but none of the clock speeds. So I'm thinking it could be driver related, going to download the last version of WHQL (currently running 180.48) and see if that's the problem. But I have been running the latest ones for a good week now and it just now started doing this. You guys think it could be my mobo







? I really hope that's not the case.


I couldn't tell ya. I tried the latest 180xx drivers, and they did nothing but cause problems for me. I'm still on 178.24's, and they work absolutely perfect.


----------



## Blitz6804

nVidia has a history of releasing drivers prior to their being ready. If your card works fine, keep the drivers you have. Before upgrading drivers, check what people have to say about them.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I couldn't tell ya. I tried the latest 180xx drivers, and they did nothing but cause problems for me. I'm still on 178.24's, and they work absolutely perfect.


Well I went back to the 178's, then that didn't do it, and then went back to the 180's. Still no luck. The GFX is still working just as normally as it was, but it's just that GPU-z nor EVGA Precision is even reading the GPU, Mem, or Shader clocks.

Here's an SS (it still accurately tells me the default clocks and the temperatures are read just fine):


----------



## Hueristic

180.70 beta's are working great for me. But I only use them for folding in XP. Lowering CPU usage from 100% to ab out 5% is a huge bonus for me!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

pez, other than the driver update, have you perhaps installed something else (hardware or software) recently? Perhaps this is a case of the video driver conflicting with another piece of software.

Good luck.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


pez, other than the driver update, have you perhaps installed something else (hardware or software) recently? Perhaps this is a case of the video driver conflicting with another piece of software.

Good luck.










The only new thing that I've done is I just got a new MP3 player yesterday (Sony NWZ-A726) and it just downloaded the device driver for USB transfers, etc. Other than that, that's it. Bad thing, I don't know if my computer is set up to restore. (Got tired of Vista using my HDD space for those backup things).


----------



## pez

Well, something gave me the feeling that it was either RivaTuner or EVGA Precision. Riva tuner wouldn't even respond to OC'ing since the last driver update to the 180's, so that's why I started using Precision. Well I just uninstalled RivaTuner and Restarted and it's all fine now.


----------



## HothBase

OK, here goes.

Hello everyone! Due to lack of things to do yesterday, I decided to push my PC a little further so I introduced my Toledo to Sir 2500MHz and also witnessed a joyful reunion with Mr. Perfect 1000MHz HT.








I also figured that since the Sapphire x1950 GTs are basically x1950 Pros, just randomly picked and lowered clocks, why not run mine at Pro speeds?

So, with that done it was time for stability testing. OK. No crash.








Time for benchmarks. Let's try 3DMark06! Yay, improvements! 5401 marks, not much but hey, it beats my previous 5000-ish.

Although... I got some really odd colours during the Canyon Flight test, with the screen even going all white a few times.
My first theory was that my card needed more power than my PSU could give it, so I did alot of reading and thinking. Anyway, long story short, turns out it was just an ATI TrayTools option that was the cause.

This got me thinking though... Maybe I should get a new PSU anyway? I know my current one is supposed to be kinda weak even though the voltages are good and stable.








Do you think I need a new one? I've never had any issues and I have never felt that it is hot on the outside, just warm.

Oh, and here are everest's cache and memory benchmarks. Won't beat JEmmaB, heh, but what say you others? Any good?

















Oh! I almost forgot! I bought a sound card today, SB XtremeMusic for ~$24. You Americans got all your special offers and shopping sprees and all that, I didn't wanna feel left out.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Wow, HothBase, according to most sources I've looked at, your PSU is horribly inadequate for your system.







I used to run an X1950XT, and though this card is a couple of steps up than the X1950GT you run, it's still basically the same GPU (the R580, unless I'm mistaken, of course). This source says that a card with an R580 requires a massive 38A from the 12V rail. Another source quotes a slightly lower figure of 30A from the 12V rail.

Nevertheless, the point remains the same.







12A from the 12V rail servicing the needs of the entire system is woefully inadequate, I'm afraid to say.

Hope this helps.


----------



## HothBase

Thanks for the info joe! Actually both sources say 30A for a single card. Heh, only 18A to go








I have actually been looking at a couple of Corsair's power supplies for a while and noticed that they all have a single 12V rail. What's the advantages/disadvantages of having single/multiple rails?

Ya think this CMPSU-400CX would suffice or should I get an CMPSU-450VX or one of the even higher wattage ones like 550W?
I probably won't upgrade my 939 much after this, I have no intentions of going multi-GPU or anything like that. Most likely I'll just get a new AMD rig when the time comes.


----------



## Rolandooo

Long time no see guys, I have a 4200+ coming next week hopefully to replace my 3200+.
I never found a good deal on a opty 165







but the 4200+ should do well.

Anywho I currently have my 3200+ @ 2613Mhz. 
http://i34.tinypic.com/rmql9w.jpg


----------



## Domino

Hey, what is the highest, but safest voltage for a 3800+X2 Manchester? E4 stepping I believe?


----------



## Blitz6804

The following has been done to the off-site roster:

Added badave
Added majakone
Updated speed for HothBase
Updated speed for Rolandooo

HothBase: My x1950 XGE ran happily on a 19 A dedicated 12 V rail. I do not know how many amps would be across all 12 V rails.

Domino: AMD says 1.400 V would be the safe limit for such a processor. I would not exceed 1.500 V on air, 1.600 V on water.

For the record... I am back in my apartment now.


----------



## N2Gaming

think3r, I just wanted to thank you for the reccomendation on the linksys. man after you know how to do the initial set up the rest is cake. I was able to get a belkin usb wireless G adapter ver 5000 at fry's today. so I'm fortunate that I have the ability now to continue my work in the garage w/out any wires.







added bonus PS3 is now wireless as well


----------



## N2Gaming

sorry for the double post. I just bought *This* and was wondering if they are any good?


----------



## Blitz6804

Those are good RAM yes.


----------



## N2Gaming

cool finally I'm getting it.


----------



## Blitz6804

The only thing about the Ballistix is that they have a high latency compared to OCZ 500 or Mushkin 500. I have heard some good things about them though. I have even seen a set get to DDR 600 on a good motherboard. (Your results can, may, and likely will vary.)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

N2Gaming, a word of warning about the Crucial Ballistix: There was a batch of these which experienced an extremely high failure rate. The failures were eventually traced to the Micron ICs' desperate need for active cooling if you subject them to VDIMM around 2.8V+.

I hope your Ballistix RAM is not from that weak-kneed batch. At any rate, it would be most advisable to actively cool the RAM, just to afford a measure of safety.









Good luck.


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks. I hope that is not why they are being sold on ebay. in any case they should be covered under warranty as long as the seller did not overvolt them and burn em up like you forwarn'd me about. thanks again.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


Ya think this CMPSU-400CX would suffice or should I get an CMPSU-450VX or one of the even higher wattage ones like 550W?
I probably won't upgrade my 939 much after this, I have no intentions of going multi-GPU or anything like that. Most likely I'll just get a new AMD rig when the time comes.


Hoth, both of those power supplies will provide plenty of power to your system. I especially like the CMPSU-450VX. It has Seasonic internals which is always a plus.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


think3r, I just wanted to thank you for the reccomendation on the linksys. man after you know how to do the initial set up the rest is cake. I was able to get a belkin usb wireless G adapter ver 5000 at fry's today. so I'm fortunate that I have the ability now to continue my work in the garage w/out any wires.







added bonus PS3 is now wireless as well










N2Gaming, right on









Are you running any of the authentication? I run my wrt54g under wpa2. My wifes laptop and my other machines have wpa2 compatible cards so I am lucky. Did you disable ssid broadcast and "wireless web access"? SSID broascast is self explanatory but "wireless web access" under Administration -> Management will allow access to the router using a wireless connection. I always disable that option. Only way to gain access to the router is being connected via ethernet cable.

Good luck guys


----------



## Blitz6804

Further, I suggest changing the user name and password from their default values.


----------



## pez

Hah! I grabbed the last copy of Assassin's Creed tonight







. I even had some money to spend on others







. I think what I'm going to end up doing (which is sad) is savign these games until I get my second card and my new monitor







.


----------



## DaMirrorLink

I'll join!









AMD Athlon 64 x2 3800+









Love it so damn much


----------



## thlnk3r

DaMirrorLink, welcome to the club. We'll add you in as soon as you post up a CPU-Z validation link/screenshot









Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, right on









Are you running any of the authentication? I run my wrt54g under wpa2. My wifes laptop and my other machines have wpa2 compatible cards so I am lucky. Did you disable ssid broadcast and "wireless web access"? SSID broascast is self explanatory but "wireless web access" under Administration -> Management will allow access to the router using a wireless connection. I always disable that option. Only way to gain access to the router is being connected via ethernet cable.


So far I am lucky to just have it set up and know that it's runnig for $25.00







I changed the ssid and key but I don't know how to change the default username and login from basic logon password of admin. I had the people at linksys help me get it going and they had me disable wan and use only wep that's about all I know about it to this point.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Further, I suggest changing the user name and password from their default values.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


So far I am lucky to just have it set up and know that it's runnig for $25.00







I changed the ssid and key but I don't know how to change the default username and login from basic logon password of admin. I had the people at linksys help me get it going and they had me disable wan and use only wep that's about all I know about it to this point.


N2Gaming, to change the default password go to Administration -> Management. It should be listed up top (Password and Re-enter to confirm). WEP is another type of wireless authentication but not as safe and secure as WPA or WPA2. WEP can be cracked using software but eh I guess it's not that big of deal. If you have non-techie neighbors then I suppose it's nothing to worry about it. All though someone could drive up to your house and just camp out all night if they really wanted to use your internet









Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Oh, So I'll probably just turn the router off at night when I'm not using my computers and since I'm not folding then there is no problem with turning it off untill I'm ready to use it. so basicall for the password I just type in a new password and verify it again. is there no user name selection, just a change password option?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Oh, So I'll probably just turn the router off at night when I'm not using my computers and since I'm not folding then there is no problem with turning it off untill I'm ready to use it. so basicall for the password I just type in a new password and verify it again. is there no user name selection, just a change password option?


N2Gaming, you probably don't have to turn it off. WEP authentication is better then nothing.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


so basicall for the password I just type in a new password and verify it again. is there no user name selection, just a change password option?


That's correct. The default username is, "admin". As far as I know that cannot be change. Perhaps maybe with a modded firmware.

Good luck


----------



## DaMirrorLink

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


DaMirrorLink, welcome to the club. We'll add you in as soon as you post up a CPU-Z validation link/screenshot









Good luck



here you are sir









http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=453632


----------



## JEmmaB

Welcome DaMirrorLink!


----------



## HothBase

Welcome!
Now, to quote pez:
Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Now OC that bad boy!


----------



## DaMirrorLink

I wish I could, but the mobo I have is an Acer mobo, I've tried to OC, it basically makes it so that it doesn't even recognize the change =/


----------



## majakone

wELCOME TO THE NEW MEMBERS


----------



## Blitz6804

DaMirrorLink is now in the off-site roster. Welcome aboard!

Joe or Thlnk3r will add you to the on-site roster sometime today.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
Welcome!
Now, to quote pez:









Hehe, nice OC. I can't seem to get mine to be stable at 2.6







. I can get 2.57, I'll try 2.58 and 2.59, but no, 2.6 just doesn't like to I guess







. Anyways, I'm super happy with it.


----------



## N2Gaming

hey everyone. I wanted to share my experience of difference between the two nf4 sli dr boards. I thinking the differences I'm experiencing are related to the mobo rev and cpu being diff. 1 board has opty 180 other board has a64 3500+. For some reason I can not get the board w/3500+ to run a 1T commant clock evan at bone stock speeds. It took me a while to figure out why the system kept crashing. I downgraded my bios from 4/06/06 to 6/23/05 and that still did not fix it. Everytime I went to run everest Cache and Memory benchmark the system would crash at the first write test. I finally changed my command clock this morning and wala. Sure wished I had tried that last night. could have saved a lot of time being frustrated. I felt like giving my pc the ol







but knew that one way or the other I would figure it out or just move on with another dfi board. the expert to be exact. For some reason I have been having ok luck on ebay. I think my good verses bad experiences is about 70/30% in my favor. I just purchased a corsair hx620 for $60.00 + S/H. So yesterday when I was shopping at Fry's I noticed that the box for the hx620 does not have a Serial # listed on the out side. he he sneeky little me was thinkin hm I could probably get the new one and when I geth the one from ebay just put the used one back in the new box and ask for a refund. So new corsair hx620 for roughly $90.00 if you consider time and gas to and from Fry's. I have the power supply sitting in the garage just waiting for the abuse I'm gonna through at it.







I'm not really gonna abuse it that's actually why it's still rapped in it's original selephane plastic. I afraid of scratching it. my tough power got scratched easily by putting it in the ninehundred case. Oh did I mention Central computers is having the Antec 900 on sell for $59.00. I splurged a little and bought two more. why am I so anal like that. can't help it I see a good deal and I have to jump on it even if I don't need it. maybe I'll be able to pass the good deal on when I'm done w/it.







wow look at me rambling on about off toppic stuff. I'm typing this on the rig w/the 3500+ and it runs pretty good once I got it configured/bugs worked out.







*Here is 3500+ Validation*


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Please welcome our newest member, DaMirrorLink!









There's a very interesting thread on the current asking price of S939 CPUs here, and I find it quite amusing because, well, some people just simply don't get it. Club member TestECull does, though, when he says that S939 as a platform is about as close to being future-proof as anything that has ever come out. Think about the fact that S939 parts first came into being in *June 2004*. That was almost four and a half years ago, which is forever in the computer business. And yet the platform is still quite relevant and potent enough for today's needs. Sure, it's not quite as fast as the latest and the greatest that's out there (that's including Core 2 Duo/Quad and AM2/AM2+ X2 Athlon and Phenom Tri/Quad), but it's not dog-slow either.

I tell thlnk3r all the time, in our private conversations, that I don't foresee myself jettisoning my S939 gaming rig until maybe mid-2010 at the earliest. There simply isn't a need for me to cast my machine aside. It will run anything a new rig will, and do so reasonably quickly. It also proves the point that benchmarks are one thing, but when you play games, if you get a potent-enough video card matched with a reasonable resolution (1680 x 1050 for me is great), you're good to go.









(This message was sent to you @ 9:39 PST, per my clock.







)


----------



## N2Gaming

read and responded w/in 1 min per my clock 9:40am pst


----------



## pez

LOL N2, I wouldn't do that w/ the PSU. That's a really sh**ty thing to do. Remember the thread where the guy bought the 4870x2 and actually got a 8800GTX. I would've been pissed, so the chances I've had and actually thoguht to do that, I skipped for ethical reasons







. I've had my computer for 3 years now, and all I've done is spent a good $300 to keep it up w/ the current bit.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Hoth, both of those power supplies will provide plenty of power to your system. I especially like the CMPSU-450VX. It has Seasonic internals which is always a plus.

I wanted to give you rep for that









But I can't









Supervisors have no reputation?









939 owns!
I could have gotten an opteron 165 from an auction site (swedish ebay) for ~$43 a few weeks ago. Missed it though:swearing:


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
LOL N2, I wouldn't do that w/ the PSU. That's a really sh**ty thing to do. Remember the thread where the guy bought the 4870x2 and actually got a 8800GTX. I would've been pissed, so the chances I've had and actually thoguht to do that, I skipped for ethical reasons







. I've had my computer for 3 years now, and all I've done is spent a good $300 to keep it up w/ the current bit.

I know what your saying and anyone who shop's at fry's already knows about the chance you take when you buy returned items from fry's. they put a orange sticker on the box so shoppers know that this item is used and has been returned. aditionally fry's will offer a discount for returned merchandise. So If you do buy the returned item and it is no good then you simply return it for a new one at the discounted price.







not to much ethics there. besides computer componants are marked up so much as it is I don't feel bad when I'm able to get a good componant at cost. Last reason for doing it this way is to get a copy of the receipt before I return it so I get a full warranty instead of do I even have a warranty???


----------



## HothBase

Gee, I need help deciding here...
I figured that since I'm probably getting a new PSU tomorrow I might as well get some electrical tape and a batch of cable ties.
Should I go with the black or the translucent ones?









What an evil scheme N2


----------



## Blitz6804

Considering that what you propose is fraud (and thus, illegal) in many states N2Gaming, I suggest you stop discussing it.

Joe: I agree with you there. As I say all the time, if my Toledo did not die, I would still be on it. Toledo @ 2.8 is identical in performance to a Brisbane @ 2.8. (The faster RAM on the Brisbane making up for the lower cache in benchmarks.)


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
Gee, I need help deciding here...
I figured that since I'm probably getting a new PSU tomorrow I might as well get some electrical tape and a batch of cable ties.
Should I go with the black or the translucent ones?









What an evil scheme N2









I know







and if the ebay box has the sku# and stuff required for rebate even more evil...


----------



## nategr8ns

hoth, it depends on the computer/colors, but I have to say black







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

HothBase, to borrow a phrase, "black is beautiful."


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Please welcome our newest member, DaMirrorLink!









There's a very interesting thread on the current asking price of S939 CPUs here, and I find it quite amusing because, well, some people just simply don't get it. Club member TestECull does, though, when he says that S939 as a platform is about as close to being future-proof as anything that has ever come out. Think about the fact that S939 parts first came into being in *June 2004*. That was almost four and a half years ago, which is forever in the computer business. And yet the platform is still quite relevant and potent enough for today's needs. Sure, it's not quite as fast as the latest and the greatest that's out there (that's including Core 2 Duo/Quad and AM2/AM2+ X2 Athlon and Phenom Tri/Quad), but it's not dog-slow either.

I tell thlnk3r all the time, in our private conversations, that I don't foresee myself jettisoning my S939 gaming rig until maybe mid-2010 at the earliest. There simply isn't a need for me to cast my machine aside. It will run anything a new rig will, and do so reasonably quickly. It also proves the point that benchmarks are one thing, but when you play games, if you get a potent-enough video card matched with a reasonable resolution (1680 x 1050 for me is great), you're good to go.









(This message was sent to you @ 9:39 PST, per my clock.







)



I whole heartedly agree. it just goes to show you that if you get a good foundation when you initially build, your rig should last you a good long time. 
And the good thing is parts have just gotten cheaper







. I bet if I got a GTX280 Id score (benchmarks) just as well as the new rigs that actually have a pcie 2.0 slot. Hell im not too far off now







.

At any rate, I was thinking of building a folding rig since I have some spare parts (figured Id put em to good use for our team). All I really need is a mobo and a case. I can pick up a fugly case for $10 or so. Anyone have a spare mobo they wanna donate to the cause?









But, if no one does, go here and cast your vote. Do not pick the second choice its only 1600mt/s, the other two are 2000mt/s.
But if anyone can shed some light on the first board (ECS) which has an ATi chipset on it, that be great. What I would like to know is the ATI chipset as good as the nforce4 ultra chipset? Which one would be better for a specific folding rig? I plan on running both the cpu and gpu clients. Any input will be helpful, thanx guys


----------



## Domino

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh h!

Okay, well, I've phoned EVGA and there isn't any bios updates for my old NF44 sli matx mobo. For some reason I can't get my ram over 2.85 volts, even when overvoltage is enabled. Any ideas?

This CPU should be able to hit 2.7GHz, but my ram voltages are holding me, anyone know any ideas or had this problem before? I've ordered a bunch of cooling stuff so I can learn off this system, but stock should be fine to get this thingy to 2.4?


----------



## HothBase

What is saying that your CPU is able to hit 2.7GHz? You might not be so lucky =/
I don't know who came up with this phrase, but here is joe for you:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


"Your mileage may vary."
In other words, just because someone's CPU was able to hit a certain speed never means that yours will get within sniffing distance.


2.85V for RAM sounds... hot =O do you have proper cooling? Your CPU won't be the only thing heating up in that box.
Have you tried loosening your memory timings?

nate & joe, black it is then


----------



## Domino

well, ddr shoudl be fine until 3.0 i've heard, afer that cooling is good, my core was also said to handle 1.45-1.5 no problem as well..... form othe rpeople with the same core and what not

im gettign some aftermarket cooling soon, so i should be able to push higher, but right now its kinda annoying, people have gotten way higher than this


----------



## N2Gaming

I think black would look nice. I'm gonna break out the blue zip ties on BNB when I get to the point of needing zip ties. maybe I'll use both black and blue zip ties


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Domino*


well, ddr shoudl be fine until 3.0 i've heard, afer that cooling is good, my core was also said to handle 1.45-1.5 no problem as well..... form othe rpeople with the same core and what not


I'm afraid that the "mileage may vary" rule goes for same-core situations as well.
3.0V is way off the charts in my book! Where did you hear this? Does your RAM even have heatspreaders? =O
Again, what timings are you running?


----------



## Domino

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


I'm afraid that the "mileage may vary" rule goes for same-core situations as well.
3.0V is way off the charts in my book! Where did you hear this? Does your RAM even have heatspreaders? =O
Again, what timings are you running?










Timings are confusing to me, what is standard for other people aren't stand for mine. It doesn't go down teh list as 4:3:3:8 for me....instead it does other things. Well ya, I've read my mobo is suppose to go well over 3V on my ram, but my mobo only stops me at 2.85. Other people have have gotten it higher.

Well, I know this processor is able to go well over 2.4, I've had it running at 2.7 before, but the ram was just being stupid.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Domino*


Timings are confusing to me, what is standard for other people aren't stand for mine. It doesn't go down teh list as 4:3:3:8 for me....instead it does other things. Well ya, I've read my mobo is suppose to go well over 3V on my ram, but my mobo only stops me at 2.85. Other people have have gotten it higher.

Well, I know this processor is able to go well over 2.4, I've had it running at 2.7 before, but the ram was just being stupid.


 the ram may have been stupid because of the timings.


----------



## Domino

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


the ram may have been stupid because of the timings.


Well, if I could get you guys a screenshot of the bios, would you guys be able to tell me which is which? CPU-Z says im running at 4:3:3:8 and yet the bios read its as 2.5:8:3:4????


----------



## HothBase

Yup, just what N2 said.
Download CPU-Z if you don't already have it and look at the "Memory" tab. You'll find your memory timings there. A screenshot could be useful.


----------



## Blitz6804

Domino: What are you reading your RAM voltage with? Everest Ultimate? Motherboard monitor? The BIOS? If the BIOS, you likely already ARE overvolting your RAM. It may be 2.85 V + Overvolt = 3.15 V or something. As has been said, unless you have heat spreaders on your RAM, I would not go over 2.6 V. With heat spreaders, do not exceed 3.0 V without active cooling of some form.

The RAM timings are usually listed in the order of tCL-tRCD-tRP-tRAS-tCR-(tRC-tRFC). So, if you have a CAS Latency of 2, a RAS to CAS delay of 3, a RAS precharge of 4, a Cycle time of 7, a Command Rate of 2, a Bank Cycle Time of 11, and a Row Refresh Cycle time of 14, you would list your RAM as 2-3-4-7-2T-11-14. Many people do not list the tRC/tRFC which is why I put them in the parenthetical.


----------



## Blitz6804

*Doubles down.*

And I seem to recall we have had this discussion in the past, but does removing the two 128 MB DIMMs help any? Mismatched densities is not a great idea and could cause problems.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Domino*


CPU-Z says im running at 4:3:3:8 and yet the bios read its as 2.5:8:3:4????


I didn't even know that CAS 4 was an option








You might be looking under the "SPD" tab, which can be a little confusing.
Under "Memory" you should see something like this








Those timings are in the "correct order" (tCL-tRCD-tRP-tRAS-tCR)
Give us a screenshot, won't ya?

It's bedtime for me now though, but I'm sure N2 and blitz can help you out. edit: and pez of course.
and whoever decides to help...


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Domino*


Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh h!

Okay, well, I've phoned EVGA and there isn't any bios updates for my old NF44 sli matx mobo. For some reason I can't get my ram over 2.85 volts, even when overvoltage is enabled. Any ideas?

This CPU should be able to hit 2.7GHz, but my ram voltages are holding me, anyone know any ideas or had this problem before? I've ordered a bunch of cooling stuff so I can learn off this system, but stock should be fine to get this thingy to 2.4?


Well I might be able to get my CPU ot 2.58, but it refuses to stay stable at 2.6, so the rule of "your mileage may vary" is very true indeed. Manchester 3800X2's are said to not be able to clock as high as the Toledo's. Also, even my RAM w/ heatspreaders is supposed to only go to 2.9, but it's running at about 2.7 or 2.8V. I think what may be holding you back as well is the mixed RAM. They're most likely 2 different types, so you might want to try and take out the 2x256 sticks and trying again to see what you get.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Domino*


Well, if I could get you guys a screenshot of the bios, would you guys be able to tell me which is which? CPU-Z says im running at 4:3:3:8 and yet the bios read its as 2.5:8:3:4????


that would not be a bad idea. screenies are always helpful when it comes to figuring out a problem.


----------



## Domino

Alrigth thanks for the help. Well, removing the other ram didn't make a difference, but I don't have them in right now.

Alright, here are some screenies.
http://e.imagehost.org/download/0879/cpuzram
http://e.imagehost.org/0272/IMG_0236.jpg
http://e.imagehost.org/0988/IMG_0237.jpg
http://e.imagehost.org/0121/IMG_0238.jpg
http://e.imagehost.org/0486/IMG_0239.jpg
http://e.imagehost.org/0741/IMG_0240.jpg
http://e.imagehost.org/0738/IMG_0241.jpg


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Domino* 
http://e.imagehost.org/download/0879/cpuzram

That's what I thought. The "SPD" tab does not show your current timings.
The "Memory" tab does however.


----------



## N2Gaming

from what I could see you may be trying to overclock your ram too much. we did not get a cpuz screen shot of actual ram spd. if you select ram spd in bios to 166 instead of 200 then you will be able to push it a little more. also you have your ram timings set for auto. it may work out for you but static settings are always better for stablility when overclocking. I don't think you really need more then 2.7v to ram. try lowering your ram boot speed to 166 and see what kind of speed you get in cpuz


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Domino* 
http://e.imagehost.org/0121/IMG_0238.jpg

If you have your memory set to 200MHz then I think we might have found your problem.
In my bios, setting the memory to 200 means a /10 divider. If that is the case here as well then its probably the ram that can't handle 220MHz. Try lowering it and see how it goes.


----------



## Blitz6804

Can we get a shot of your "Memory" tab as HothBase has said? It should be reading 2.5-3-4-8-2T. This is too tight for DDR 440 based on the SPD for DDR 400.


----------



## pez

Domino, does your CPU need the 1.4V to be stable? I'm asking, b/c mine is on stock voltage and I'm sure it would be nicer to your cpu if you didn't need that much voltage.


----------



## Domino

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Domino, does your CPU need the 1.4V to be stable? I'm asking, b/c mine is on stock voltage and I'm sure it would be nicer to your cpu if you didn't need that much voltage.

I'm just running it at 1.4 for the time being as it is able to..... ill try a devider and see if i can get higher....

I'll get a screenie in a second


----------



## Domino

http://e.imagehost.org/0369/cpuzram2.jpg

Any good programs that show all my voltages?


----------



## Domino

Btw, what should I set htem too? Someone said that if they are instable, i should put them at 5:5:5:15 or something like that?


----------



## Blitz6804

We need your "MEMORY" tab, not your "SPD" tab. Click the tab just to the left of the one you are currently viewing.

I would take them off Auto to "Manual" and explicitly set them to:

3.0
8
4
4

In that order in your BIOS.


----------



## Domino

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


We need your "MEMORY" tab, not your "SPD" tab. Click the tab just to the left of the one you are currently viewing.

I would take them off Auto to "Manual" and explicitly set them to:

3.0
8
4
4

In that order in your BIOS.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Domino*


Alrigth thanks for the help. Well, removing the other ram didn't make a difference, but I don't have them in right now.

Alright, here are some screenies.
http://e.imagehost.org/download/0879/cpuzram
http://e.imagehost.org/0272/IMG_0236.jpg
http://e.imagehost.org/0988/IMG_0237.jpg
http://e.imagehost.org/0121/IMG_0238.jpg
http://e.imagehost.org/0486/IMG_0239.jpg
http://e.imagehost.org/0741/IMG_0240.jpg
http://e.imagehost.org/0738/IMG_0241.jpg


Alright, I'll try that! Thanks







Currently booting in those settings, 166, 230 FSB, 1.4V, and 2.75 with overvoltage.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Domino*


I'm just running it at 1.4 for the time being as it is able to..... ill try a devider and see if i can get higher....

I'll get a screenie in a second


Well what I'm saying is at the cpu's stock voltage is 1.35, so why run it hotter than it needs to?


----------



## Domino

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Well what I'm saying is at the cpu's stock voltage is 1.35, so why run it hotter than it needs to?


True, but I'm just pushing it right now. The stock cooler was designed (based on what AMD said, and by what I'm assuming, if they use the same cooler for their processors at 1.4V on the same type of CPU) and I have it at 2.3 GHz right now. Doing a OCCT test right now and let is last for 10 minutes..... so far so good!


----------



## Domino

Well, after 10 minutes, it seems like everything is okay. CPU didn't exceed 38.C!?!?!?!?!?! At 95 percent load....


----------



## Rolandooo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Domino*


http://e.imagehost.org/0369/cpuzram2.jpg

Any good programs that show all my voltages?


http://www.cpuid.com/hwmonitorpro.php

Heres a good program to monitor Voltages and temps.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Domino*


True, but I'm just pushing it right now. The stock cooler was designed (based on what AMD said, and by what I'm assuming, if they use the same cooler for their processors at 1.4V on the same type of CPU) and I have it at 2.3 GHz right now. Doing a OCCT test right now and let is last for 10 minutes..... so far so good!


In my theory I think AMD's max @1.4v may have had something to do with cool and quiet and things of the sort. They probably use Auto Cvolt settings and let the OS adjust the voltage as needed for cpu intesive programs. So when they give a max voltage it's with intentions of letting the OS make changes according to how much cvolt the cpu needs according to momentary loads at any given time. higher volts and heat = less cpu life due to electromigration. use the least amount of voltage as possibe to make it last as long as possibe. a littel bump in cvolt for a little while is good for diagnostic purposes but too much for too long and you'll be sorry charlie. I don't think 1.4 is that bad though. I can't get my 3500+ stable at 2500MHz with out 1.425 so don't feel bad. for all the flack were giving you. It just makes more sense to get the other things in your system dialed in as best as possible before you increase your cpu voltage.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


I wanted to give you rep for that









But I can't









Supervisors have no reputation?










Hoth, that is correct. Moderators cannot receive rep









Rolandoo, good to see you! What happened to the wolfendale?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Domino*


Well, I know this processor is able to go well over 2.4, I've had it running at 2.7 before, but the ram was just being stupid.


Domino, also don't forget the Manchester core becomes voltage hungry when you start to hit the 2.6 - 2.8Ghz barrier. If you're able to hit 2.7Ghz on 1.4volts then that is a good OC. It also might be wise to find the limits of each component first (motherboard, processor and memory). This would provide a nice baseline.

Good luck


----------



## Domino

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rolandooo*


http://www.cpuid.com/hwmonitorpro.php

Heres a good program to monitor Voltages and temps.


Thanks for the link man.







I'll check that out in a bit.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


In my theory I think AMD's max @1.4v may have had something to do with cool and quiet and things of the sort. They probably use Auto Cvolt settings and let the OS adjust the voltage as needed for cpu intesive programs. So when they give a max voltage it's with intentions of letting the OS make changes according to how much cvolt the cpu needs according to momentary loads at any given time. higher volts and heat = less cpu life due to electromigration. use the least amount of voltage as possibe to make it last as long as possibe. a littel bump in cvolt for a little while is good for diagnostic purposes but too much for too long and you'll be sorry charlie. I don't think 1.4 is that bad though. I can't get my 3500+ stable at 2500MHz with out 1.425 so don't feel bad. for all the flack were giving you. It just makes more sense to get the other things in your system dialed in as best as possible before you increase your cpu voltage.


Alright, well right now it seems to be running stable at 2.40 GHz on 1.40 Volts. I'll try lowering it to 1.375 voltage for vcore and 2.75 for the ram. It seems everything was fine on 1.4 volts, so I'm just going to see what happens. Test went rhoguh, etc, alright, thanks for the help guys. Haha, I won't be pushing it until my other cooling parts come in, thanks a bunch! +rep, finally hit 2.4 GHz STABLE!!!!111oneoneoenoen w00t!


----------



## Rolandooo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Hoth, that is correct. Moderators cannot receive rep









Rolandoo, good to see you! What happened to the wolfendale?


I traded it for a Q6600 G0 with someone here at OCN.

Good to see you too man, Congrats on the Mod position


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Domino*


I'll try lowering it to 1.375 voltage for vcore and 2.75 for the ram.


Domino, wise decision. It's always good to see how far you can push your processor overclock on stock voltage. So far you're on the right track









Good luck

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rolandooo*


Good to see you too man, Congrats on the Mod position

















Thanks buddy

If anyone is wondering, Rolandoo was one of the original members of the S939 Opteron club that was around last year.


----------



## Rolandooo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Thanks buddy

If anyone is wondering, Rolandoo was one of the original members of the S939 Opteron club that was around last year.


I tried to get ahold of another opteron too! I settled for a 4200+ though. 
The current owner has it @ 2.8ghz, I should be getting it this week.

This 3200+ is doing okay for the meantime.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rolandooo*


I tried to get ahold of another opteron too! I settled for a 4200+ though. 
The current owner has it @ 2.8ghz, I should be getting it this week.

This 3200+ is doing okay for the meantime.


Rolandoo, right on. I received a 3700+ a few weeks ago from a fellow OCN'er . I'm curious to see how far she can go









You had a Opteron 185 correct? Did you have it around 3Ghz?

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Order of the Opteron. Currently shepherded by a moderator who owns nothing but Intel systems...

Thlnk3r, are you interested in putting in for a transfer?


----------



## Rolandooo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Rolandoo, right on. I received a 3700+ a few weeks ago from a fellow OCN'er . I'm curious to see how far she can go









You had a Opteron 185 correct? Did you have it around 3Ghz?

Good luck

Yeah I had the 185 @ 3ghz stable. It was quite a journey, but I got there.

I am not sure how well I will be able to OC with my current skt939 setup, due to my motherboard (Abit An8-SLI) It overvolts like crazy. My NB voltage is as low as it go and its reading 1.7v







But I put a better cooler on it.

I wish I never sold my DFI UT Nf4-SLi-D.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Order of the Opteron. Currently shepherded by a moderator who owns nothing but Intel systems...

Thlnk3r, are you interested in putting in for a transfer?

actually Enterprise has/does use Opterons


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Thlnk3r, are you interested in putting in for a transfer?

Blitz, to be honest no. That club died a long time ago...well it's not as active as it use to be









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rolandooo* 
Yeah I had the 185 @ 3ghz stable. It was quite a journey, but I got there.

I am not sure how well I will be able to OC with my current skt939 setup, due to my motherboard (Abit An8-SLI) It overvolts like crazy. My NB voltage is as low as it go and its reading 1.7v







But I put a better cooler on it.

I wish I never sold my DFI UT Nf4-SLi-D.

Rolandoo, do you get extremely high idle temps with the overvoltage issue? I know my DFI NF4 SLI-DR is stock at 1.5volts. During the summer the chipset temps get up to 45C idle so I can't imagine what 1.7volts would be like. Joe has a similar problem with his Asus S939 board in regards to overvoltage. I believe it's a certain setting within the BIOS that causes this issue.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I was not aware GuardianOdin. His current sole PC is an E6750. Last I checked, he had three Socket Ts listed, yet no 939, 940, or AM2.

Dumb question Rolandooo, but you did turn off chipset overvolt right?


----------



## Rolandooo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz, to be honest no. That club died a long time ago...well it's not as active as it use to be









Rolandoo, do you get extremely high idle temps with the overvoltage issue? I know my DFI NF4 SLI-DR is stock at 1.5volts. During the summer the chipset temps get up to 45C idle so I can't imagine what 1.7volts would be like. Joe has a similar problem with his Asus S939 board in regards to overvoltage. I believe it's a certain setting within the BIOS that causes this issue.

Good luck










Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I was not aware GuardianOdin. His current sole PC is an E6750. Last I checked, he had three Socket Ts listed, yet no 939, 940, or AM2.

Dumb question Rolandooo, but you did turn off chipset overvolt right?

I will double check the bios, but I was not aware of a setting the bios other than the voltage itself.

I am looking at temp monitors, and I cannot find a NB temp. I am starting to wonder if my mobo has a sensor on the NB.

Let me see what I can find out.


----------



## Blitz6804

Asus nF4s lack such a temperature sensor if I remember correctly.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Asus nF4s lack such a temperature sensor if I remember correctly.

Negative. They have it. In Everest it is referred to as "Motherboard" temperature. Asus NF4's lack a memory voltage reading however.

EDIT:
Why are we discussing Asus motherboards, when Rolandoo has an Abit?


----------



## Blitz6804

A8N / AN8... so I am not as young as I used to be.


----------



## Rolandooo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Negative. They have it. In Everest it is referred to as "Motherboard" temperature. Asus NF4's lack a memory voltage reading however.

EDIT:
Why are we discussing Asus motherboards, when Rolandoo has an Abit?


I will download everest and see what I can find, Thanks.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


A8N / AN8... so I am not as young as I used to be.


I know, they get kinda confusing that way. Although myself, I still will even confuse K8N with A8N and AN8. There's just too many out there with "N8" involved in the model somewhere!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rolandooo*


I will download everest and see what I can find, Thanks.


Sorry if this is a double post.....

That's a good idea. From all of my motherboards that I've EVER tried, Everest has ALWAYS been the best at showing me closest to accurate voltages, temps, etc.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

If the AN8 SLI is anything like my KN8 SLI, then Everest will detect a chipset temperature, yes. This would be the nominal MB temperature.









Just for the sake of providing a basis of comparison, at ambients ranging from 22 degs to around 26 degs C, my Asus A8N32-SLI Deluxe's chipset temperature (MB temperature) ranges from 36 degs C to 39 degs C. When the ambients are really soaring (circa 32 degs C) in the summer, this temperature goes up to around 44 degs C.

Your temperatures will depend much on how well you cool the heatsink atop the heatpipe assembly, as well as on the ambient temperatures.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


If the AN8 SLI is anything like my KN8 SLI, then Everest will detect a chipset temperature, yes. This would be the nominal MB temperature.









Just for the sake of providing a basis of comparison, at ambients ranging from 22 degs to around 26 degs C, my Asus A8N32-SLI Deluxe's chipset temperature (MB temperature) ranges from 36 degs C to 39 degs C. When the ambients are really soaring (circa 32 degs C) in the summer, this temperature goes up to around 44 degs C.

Your temperatures will depend much on how well you cool the heatsink atop the heatpipe assembly, as well as on the ambient temperatures.










No kidding? My A8N32-SLI Deluxe's chipset is usually sitting at 45-50*C without overvoltage on, and 55-60*C with it on. Hmmm, maybe I need to whip out the good ol' rubbing alcohol and paper towels, and reseat my heatpipe assembly perhaps. Perhaps this could be yet another cause of my instabilities.......


----------



## Blitz6804

Everest Ultimate (by Lavasys) is 30-day trialware. You can use the limited version of the software for 30-days free of charge. After 30 days, you are expected to purchase a copy or uninstall the software. Purchasing it unlocks all features, some of which will appear as [TRIAL VERSION] until you do so.


----------



## Rolandooo

Well Everest reports my (Motherboard) to be @ 32c. ABIT EQ Reports (SYS) to be 32c. I always thought that was a sensor somewhere on the motherboard, not the actual NB.

Funny This whole time I had the temp.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Rolandoo, do you know what your ambient temperatures are?

pio, funnily enough, I have never ever disassembled the heatpipe assembly on the A8N32-SLI Deluxe. I have, however, tested fan configurations with this case to find the best overall temperatures.


----------



## Rolandooo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Rolandoo, do you know what your ambient temperatures are?

pio, funnily enough, I have never ever disassembled the heatpipe assembly on the A8N32-SLI Deluxe. I have, however, tested fan configurations with this case to find the best overall temperatures.










20c - 24c

Its currently 21c.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


No kidding? My A8N32-SLI Deluxe's chipset is usually sitting at 45-50*C without overvoltage on, and 55-60*C with it on. Hmmm, maybe I need to whip out the good ol' rubbing alcohol and paper towels, and reseat my heatpipe assembly perhaps. Perhaps this could be yet another cause of my instabilities.......



Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Just for the sake of providing a basis of comparison, at ambients ranging from 22 degs to around 26 degs C, my Asus A8N32-SLI Deluxe's chipset temperature (MB temperature) ranges from 36 degs C to 39 degs C. When the ambients are really soaring (circa 32 degs C) in the summer, this temperature goes up to around 44 degs C. 
.


















Are you guys serious?







even at full bore Ive never seen it over 35*c (in a 23*C room) and that was with the overvolt on. Mine typically idles @ 29*c, @ 100% load 31*c, no overvolt.
Your guys stuff runs crazy hot!







And now after the AS5 has gone through its burn in cycle, even my CPU temps have dropped pretty significantly. It doesnt go over 48*c anymore (according to core temp) when folding. It used to get in to the mid 50's.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*









Are you guys serious?







even at full bore Ive never seen it over 35*c (in a 23*C room) and that was with the overvolt on. Mine typically idles @ 29*c, @ 100% load 31*c, no overvolt.
Your guys stuff runs crazy hot!







And now after the AS5 has gone through its burn in cycle, even my CPU temps have dropped pretty significantly. It doesnt go over 48*c anymore (according to core temp) when folding. It used to get in to the mid 50's.


BlackOmega, if those are the motherboard temperatures you're quoting, that's mightily impressive.


----------



## Rolandooo

Heres a Screenshot. My NB Voltage is 1.75v @ 33c, ambient temp 21c

http://i38.tinypic.com/9ad0y8.jpg

I am about to check the bios for the overvolt settings since its not needed that high.


----------



## Blitz6804

It is likely because the Asus Vento 3600 has a duct directly over the CPU socket and he has an ultra-high speed fan on a blow down cooler. The two in conjunction give the top of the heat pipe a vast volume of air to disperse heat.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


BlackOmega, if those are the motherboard temperatures you're quoting, that's mightily impressive.










Yes they are, I just ran SNm short 100%load, only went to 31*c

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


It is likely because the Asus Vento 3600 has a duct directly over the CPU socket and he has an ultra-high speed fan on a blow down cooler. The two in conjunction give the top of the heat pipe a vast volume of air to disperse heat.


 I did notice that this crazy little fan did help (6338 rpm). Its loud as a mother though. Even before with the stock fan It did pretty well. 
I think Im going to get a NB fan though, I noticed when I was running hwmonitor and stress testing that those temps were getting a little out of hand.

Where does PC probe monitor the MB temps?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rolandooo*


Heres a Screenshot. My NB Voltage is 1.75v @ 33c, ambient temp 21c

http://i38.tinypic.com/9ad0y8.jpg

I am about to check the bios for the overvolt settings since its not needed that high.


Rolandooo, that must be a wrong reading. Either the NB voltage is not displaying correctly of the NB temperature is not correct. That temperature (33C) doesn't look right for 1.75volts. Does your BIOS display anything more in depth in regards to these temperatures?

Good luck


----------



## Rolandooo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Rolandooo, that must be a wrong reading. Either the NB voltage is not displaying correctly of the NB temperature is not correct. That temperature (33C) doesn't look right for 1.75volts. Does your BIOS display anything more in depth in regards to these temperatures?

Good luck











Nope Bios just shows whats in Abit EQ (Pwm, Cpu, Sys)

Which leads me to believe my NB doesn't have a sensor. I too thought this temp seemed too low.


----------



## pez

Hmmm this gets me to thinking, how much do 3500+'s sell for? I have one that is just kinda chilling in that opteron box that joe sent me the 3800+ in.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Hmmm this gets me to thinking, how much do 3500+'s sell for? I have one that is just kinda chilling in that opteron box that joe sent me the 3800+ in.


Pez, thats a good question for the Appraisals section


----------



## Blitz6804

Not very much at all Pez. You could always place an appraisal thread, but I would not expect much. I tried selling my 3700+ San Diego for $50, not so much as even a smattering of interest.


----------



## pez

ah just figured I'd ask the experts







. I wasn't expecting ot get that much.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


ah just figured I'd ask the experts







. I wasn't expecting ot get that much.


 I won one on ebay a few months ago for $10.00 bu tdid not follow thru w/purchase seller did not comunicate w/me so oh well. they normall go for about $15.00 to $35.00 on ebay depending on how the item sells. hope this helps.









that would be a good cpu to practice de-lidding a cpu on if you can't get much for it. well that's if you ever thought of doing such a thing.


----------



## BlackOmega

You see what the FX-60's go for? Last time I checked they were still going for around $300. Kinda rediculous, you could buy a decent AM2+ mobo and a CPU, possibly evena a quadcore.


----------



## majakone

It would be a good idea to watch what your bidding on on Fleabay







80% of the computer components listed there are just someone elses junk


----------



## Blitz6804

For the record majakone, I will affix your CPU-Z screenshot here. (Since, for some reason or another, it will not let you do so.) Although, it is just SO much easier to have a CPU-Z validation link.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *majakone*


It would be a good idea to watch what your bidding on on Fleabay







80% of the computer components listed there are just someone elses junk










One man's trash is another mans treasure. I do agree with you to a point. if you can get a awesome deal on an item and you have repair skills then it could be worth it. Now w/cpu's on the other hand, you probably have about a 50-50 chance. with them it's like playing russian rulet. I have not purchased one on ebay yet. I can see spending $10-20 dollars on a cpu on ebay. That would cost almost as much as going to the movies. Now if you get a cpu and it's dead and they have doa return policy then no problem. if you get it and you know it's dying just just up the volt's and finish it off and send it back on the doa waranty. I see items listed all the time with the seller claiming they don't have the hardware to test the item. I say B.S. if it's bad they know it's bad. if they say it's good and it's not and you have doa return call em on it. return the favor to the seller.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *majakone*


It would be a good idea to watch what your bidding on on Fleabay







80% of the computer components listed there are just someone elses junk











Very true, the only things I would ever consider buying off ebay are new, never used parts. I upgraded my old P4 (423 socket) dell for my folks that way. I got both the cpu and rdram off ebay and it works great to this day.

Theres actually some decent stuff on there. The 1 fx-60 I just saw was @ $310... and it still has a day left. People are dumb, for that price they couldve gotten a barebones rig off of tigerdirect.....


----------



## N2Gaming

they just want it for bragging rights. So they can say look what I got man. Oh $#!7 it's dead


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I've been quite lucky with eBay PC parts purchases, I must say (starts knocking on wood). I'm batting 1.000 so far, with video cards and motherboards and other sundry parts. I'm careful to never overbid, though, so that in case I ever bid on a dud I won't be out too much.

But yes, it is a complete crap shoot. You never really know what these eBay sellers are selling. It helps plenty if they offer some kind of anti-DOA guarantee or something similar; in fact, depending on what I'm interested in, I don't go for it unless that guarantee is stated explicitly.


----------



## N2Gaming

well so far with pc parts I would say that I've come out a little ahead.

2x m2n32sli delux wifi boards [email protected]$80 & [email protected]$100 the $100 was doa but asus is presently working on that one for the second time now. Asus need to pick up the ball in regards to rma's cause they did not get it right the first time. The $80.00 board is the one I reached 3.3 OC on for [Project] BNBB

I got 2 nf4 sli dr expert boards one of them works got em both for less then $20.00 shipped. Most recently Igot another nf4 sli dr for $20 + 12.50 S/H This board came w/sound module so far every thing works on the board and it test's ok with 2x1gig ocz ram.

Conclusion Ebay/Flebay to each's own, ya just gotta know what to look for and like texmasterjoe said, it's a crap shoot! So don't bid to high and if your lucky it might work when you get it.


----------



## HothBase

Hey guys, I bought myself a CMPSU-450VX(EU) today and just finished installing it.
At my first boot I got bluescreened by my sound drivers







They kinda died.
After a reboot everything seems to be working just fine though







I'm really glad because you can tell by the stability of the voltages how great this product is.
Thanks for the recommendation thlnk3r! Imagine yourself receiving some REP+ from me


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
Hey guys, I bought myself a CMPSU-450VX(EU) today and just finished installing it.
At my first boot I got bluescreened by my sound drivers







They kinda died.
After a reboot everything seems to be working just fine though







I'm really glad because you can tell by the stability of the voltages how great this product is.
Thanks for the recommendation thlnk3r! Imagine yourself receiving some REP+ from me









HothBase, let's just call it "imaginary rep"









I'm glad your happy with the 450VX all though it is strange you received a BSOD upon boot up. Hopefully it's just a driver conflict.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Hi every one, thanks to PIO I recently sought after *THIS* 6800GT OC BFG agp card to trade up and I'm thinking I should go with *THIS* 9800GT OC card they offer on the trade up for an extra $50.00 Does any one know if this uses the G92 processor like in the 8800GT or does it use a different GPU chip? To clarify and prevent any questions about prices, the craiglist ad is not my exact card I'm holding for trade up but it's the same model of card. Any comments or suggestions.


----------



## HothBase




----------



## N2Gaming

Hoth, thanks for the link.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


Hey guys, I bought myself a CMPSU-450VX(EU) today and just finished installing it.
At my first boot I got bluescreened by my sound drivers







They kinda died.
After a reboot everything seems to be working just fine though







I'm really glad because you can tell by the stability of the voltages how great this product is.
Thanks for the recommendation thlnk3r! Imagine yourself receiving some REP+ from me










If you can find a good deal, you should try and find some ddr500 RAM. It speeds up the computer a great deal especially if you can get it running nicely at a 200:200 ratio.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hi every one, thanks to PIO I recently sought after *THIS* 6800GT OC BFG agp card to trade up and I'm thinking I should go with *THIS* 9800GT OC card they offer on the trade up for an extra $50.00 Does any one know if this uses the G92 processor like in the 8800GT or does it use a different GPU chip? To clarify and prevent any questions about prices, the craiglist ad is not my exact card I'm holding for trade up but it's the same model of card. Any comments or suggestions.


98GT's use G92's, but let me check. I posted a GPU-z ss a few pages back.

EDIT: Yes they do use G92. It's a great card IMO and I will be SLI'ing them for x-mas. <---Me = uber excited.
http://www.overclock.net/4995465-post9416.html


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


If you can find a good deal, you should try and find some ddr500 RAM. It speeds up the computer a great deal especially if you can get it running nicely at a 200:200 ratio. 98GT's use G92's, but let me check. I posted a GPU-z ss a few pages back.


 thnx, are you suggesting not overclocking the system and just running the ddr500 at ddr400??? you got me confused


----------



## thlnk3r

N2Gaming, the 9800GT has a "revised" 55nm G92b core. There's a bit of confusion over this too because some other 9800GT's have the older 65nm G92 core. The _real_ 9800GT's have added support for hybridpower and 3-way SLI (55nm G92B).

It might be best to ask the experts over in the nVidia section for a better explanation.

Hope that helps









Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


thnx, are you suggesting not overclocking the system and just running the ddr500 at ddr400??? you got me confused


N2Gaming, Pez is suggesting that you pick up a set of DDR500 memory. Apparently the higher memory frequencyspeed has improved overall system performance for Pez.


----------



## N2Gaming

think3r thanks for that link and information about g92 65nm & 55nm. Now you got me wondering what nm GPU the 98GT card will ship with. OK I'll have to try this ram theory when I get the two sticks I bought on ebay. That's if they are any good when I get them.


----------



## Blitz6804

Pez had his RAM running on a 200:133 divider to make it stable. He upgraded to DDR 500 and now runs it at DDR 514. This is a VAST improvement over the DDR 314 he had.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

A slight clarification regarding DDR500 RAM is in order here:

For S939, of course, the default RAM speed is 200MHz. This equals DDR400 (200MHz*2), of course. This also assumes that the reference clock (HTT Clock/"FSB") is at a 1:1 ratio with the RAM clock.

Almost all RAM modules have some headroom in them, in that they are potentially capable of running faster than 200MHz. The potential headroom, however, varies with the type of ICs on the RAM DIMM, as well as the engineering of the PCB (some PCB designs are better than others).

DDR500 RAM, by default, runs not at 250MHz (DDR500) but at DDR400. DDR500 RAM is so-called because the manufacturer guarantees that it has been tested to be capable of hitting 250MHz when overclocked.









The point being clarified here is that DDR500 RAM is not inherently faster out of the box than DDR400 RAM. Rather, DDR500-rated RAM *is potentially faster* than DDR400-rated RAM.

(Of course, there are some DDR400-rated modules that can far outrun DDR500-rated modules. It's all about the ICs, really.







That is the magic detail you need to know when scouting for RAM, in my opinion.)

Hope this helps!


----------



## N2Gaming

OK, yeah I was thinking I would be able the get higher ram clocks with ddr500 over my ddr400. So even after the trade off of slower timings it will still perform better because it will give me more overclocking options with out the ram being the bottle neck.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hoth, thanks for the link.










No problem








It's a great site, I use it all the time. For basic info.
Might not always be completely correct about everything though


----------



## Blitz6804

It really depends N2Gaming. Mushkin Extreme DDR 500 is 3-3-2-8-1T for example. You may not get the best performance at those settings. I am curious to see how DDR 500 CL 3 stacks up to DDR 333 CL 1.5 in regards to bandwidth.


----------



## HothBase

So which is better?
DDR400 @ 2-3-2-5-1T or DDR500 @ 3-3-2-8-1T?
You won't notice much difference either way though, or will you? =O


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


So which is better?
DDR400 @ 2-3-2-5-1T or DDR500 @ 3-3-2-8-1T?
Not much difference either way though? =O


Not an easy question to answer. In the absence of answers, though, the thing to do is test test test.


----------



## N2Gaming

well I think the ddr500 will alow you to run your ram at ddr200 and overclock your fsb to 225+ with out the ram bottle necking the OC.


----------



## HothBase

Hey guys








Since I got my new PSU I was poking around in my BIOS and found this.

_Burst Length [8 Beats]_
Sets the burst lenth in beats. Set to 4 Beats when using 64-bit data quality.
Configuration options: [8 Beats] [4 Beats]

Everest says that my memory module width is 64-bit. Does that mean I should change it my burst length from my current 8 to 4? I did some searching and found out that 4 is supposed to be slower than 8.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
Hey guys








Since I got my new PSU I was poking around in my BIOS and found this.

_Burst Length [8 Beats]_
Sets the burst lenth in beats. Set to 4 Beats when using 64-bit data quality.
Configuration options: [8 Beats] [4 Beats]

Everest says that my memory module width is 64-bit. Does that mean I should change it my burst length from my current 8 to 4? I did some searching and found out that 4 is supposed to be slower than 8.

That's actually a very good question.....I've been wondering the same thing as to what that function does. I have the option, but it defaults to 4 for me. So I've always just left it there.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
Hey guys








Since I got my new PSU I was poking around in my BIOS and found this.

_Burst Length [8 Beats]_
Sets the burst lenth in beats. Set to 4 Beats when using 64-bit data quality.
Configuration options: [8 Beats] [4 Beats]

Everest says that my memory module width is 64-bit. Does that mean I should change it my burst length from my current 8 to 4? I did some searching and found out that 4 is supposed to be slower than 8.

Hoth, "Burst Length" determines the amount of data that is returned during a read request. Go to this link and check out Figure 3 and the descriptive paragraph. Quite interesting.

Hope that helps


----------



## txtmstrjoe

"Burst Length" is one of those crucial (pun not intended) RAM settings in a DFI LANParty UT-series motherboard's BIOS. Each IC of RAM has one ideal setting; DFIs being what they are, if this setting is incorrect, it can cause anything from an unstable system to a complete POST failure at times.

(This is certainly true of the CFX3200-DR. The Asus A8N32-SLI Deluxe also has this in the BIOS, but this board is far more forgiving than any DFI I've ever played with.)


----------



## HothBase

Well, I did what I thought best, compared 8 and 4 with Everest's Cache and Memory Benchmark. Turns out that a burst length of 4 resulted in ~100MB/s lower bandwidth and 1ns higher latency.
My memory datasheet says 2, 4 and 8 are all fine so I think I'll just stick to 8 since I have been running it all this time without noticing any problems.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


It's all about the ICs, really.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, the 9800GT has a "revised" 55nm G92b core. There's a bit of confusion over this too because some other 9800GT's have the older 65nm G92 core. The _real_ 9800GT's have added support for hybridpower and 3-way SLI (55nm G92B).

It might be best to ask the experts over in the nVidia section for a better explanation.

Hope that helps









N2Gaming, Pez is suggesting that you pick up a set of DDR500 memory. Apparently the higher memory frequencyspeed has improved overall system performance for Pez.


Well actually, on XFX'x site, my card is stated to have HybridPower capabilities, but it still reads as a 65nm chip.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


think3r thanks for that link and information about g92 65nm & 55nm. Now you got me wondering what nm GPU the 98GT card will ship with. OK I'll have to try this ram theory when I get the two sticks I bought on ebay. That's if they are any good when I get them.











Yeah, everyone else covered it basically, but when my CPU is at 2.5GHz, and the RAM is at a 200:200 ratio (or 1:1) with the CPU, then the ram is running at 250MHz (500MHz effective). I could tell FPS differences mainly in CSS just from the RAM upgrade for me (about 10-20 FPS increase) and normal tasks became a lot quicker to load/uitilize/etc. The only thing in Vista Ratings that isn't a 5.9 now is my CPU (5.1) and my HDD (5.3).


----------



## BlackOmega

Hey what do you guys think of this Epox mobo

I might get one with a gig of ram for $50.....you guys think its worth it?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hey what do you guys think of this Epox mobo

I might get one with a gig of ram for $50.....you guys think its worth it?


BlackOmega, according to this article, this board might turn out to be an adequate choice if you intend to OC it. Anandtech certainly liked it, as well. I myself have never played with one, and just looking at pictures there are a couple of details which would dissuade me. Chiefly, the placement of the power connectors (24-pin main power connector and 4-pin 12V connector) is very poor. Their extreme proximity to the CPU socket would almost certainly limit your air cooling options, as well as virtually eliminate the possibility of neat cable management.

On the other hand, if this is not a consideration for you, and based on the positive assessment of two professional reviews, it might be worth the $50.00 to take a flyer.









Of course, if the RAM on offer is healthy, this might be worth the $50.00 itself.







Do you happen to know what ICs are on the RAM that comes with the board?

If you do buy this board and the RAM, please do let us know how it works for you.









Good luck!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hey what do you guys think of this Epox mobo

I might get one with a gig of ram for $50.....you guys think its worth it?


BlackOmega, my mother-in-law has the EP-9NDA3+ and hasn't had any problems with it. It's a shame EPOX went out of business. I really liked their S939 boards. I think that is a good deal though...I'd jump on it.

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Theyre out of business? I had no idea. I've heard of them in passing. But Ive read a few reviews about this board and it seems that most hardware testers liked it. One achieved 280 mhz with stock voltage, if thats the case I would see 3.3ghz out of my opty 180, which would not be bad at all. Hell that would be considerably better than my a8n32sli deluxe.

I did notice the layout of the board, the plug is in a really bad spot, but Im just trying to go cheap. Unless my financial aid goes through then Id be more swayed to get a new DFI lanparty UT sli-d off ebay, theres been a few on there for decent prices.

As for the ram, its Buffalo...... Ive never heard of it, or perhaps didnt want to know about it. And its 2 512 sticks anyway. Ill wind up putting my HyperX on whatever board I get. Maybe itll be more compatible and Ill be able to run it at the 2-3-2-6 timings.

And if I do get that Epoc board, Ill most definitely write a review about it.


----------



## Blitz6804

I know Buffalo Tech. They are not famous for RAM, but instead, known for their wireless transmitters. To mind here comes USB to WLAN adapters and USB to Bluetooth adapters. They are on the low end of both markets, although, I personally have never used their products. (I went with the competitor both times.)


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hey what do you guys think of this Epox mobo

I might get one with a gig of ram for $50.....you guys think its worth it?


BO, it looks like a decent board with the digital debug and power and reset buttons built into the mainboard like dfi. I did not know they went out of Bus. I would check to see if you can still download the drivers and updated bios's so you don't have any issues down the road. I also noticed the power plug placement and thought that looks odd. txtmstrjoe mentioned that as well. Good luck to ya, what ever you decide to do. Also looks like it has decent audio built in reatek alc850


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Also looks like it has decent audio built in reatek alc850

Same as I have then. It's all right, would still recommend using a real soundcard though









Hey, look what I found! [A rare Sempron!] (^_^)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
Same as I have then. It's all right, would still recommend using a real soundcard though









Hey, look what I found! [A rare Sempron!] (^_^)









Methinks HothBase is a bit like me now, in that he's become snobbish when it comes to sound on a PC.









Oh, wow, HB, are you going to pick this Sempron up?


----------



## HothBase

Nah, I'm trying to save some cash for an Xbox 360 now that the new Jasper revision is out.
Even even though it's just ~$6 + shipping, it wouldn't give much more than bragging rights, would it? ^^


----------



## TestECull

2 week ETA on Venice suicides, and a 24/7 X2 4200+ overclock. Just bought one from Kamakazi. Not even going to bother with stable on the Venice suicides, just boot, then post. It probably won't live very long...:\\

Whoever gets the closest to my highest CPU-z dump gets a cookie and a free internet! Feel free to give me your opinions on what itt'l be able to boot Vista at...I'll be setting CPU-z to run with Windows, to ensure the most reliable dumps, and I'll probably use safe mode too. Hey, it's still windows.


----------



## JEmmaB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hey what do you guys think of this Epox mobo

I might get one with a gig of ram for $50.....you guys think its worth it?


IMO Epox makes greats boards especially those from the Socket A era.









Link below probably has all the BIOS's ever released for this mobo.

RHF

An interesting tidbit.









SuPox


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hey what do you guys think of this Epox mobo

I might get one with a gig of ram for $50.....you guys think its worth it?



Yes. That's only one or two models up from mine, and mine's awesome. It also has the nForce 4 chipset, which is one of the best for overclocking S939. I love mine. Only differance, it seems to me, is that mine supports SLI where yours does not. Still, I say go for it!

One thing you won't like is where ePox put the ATX and CPU power connecters. They're right in the middle of the damn board!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JEmmaB*


IMO Epox makes greats boards especially those from the Socket A era.









Link below probably has all the BIOS's ever released for this mobo.

RHF

An interesting tidbit.









SuPox


I have one laying around w/an amd duron 800


----------



## Blitz6804

TestECull: Linux may not be a bad idea in place of Vista. First, it has far lower system requirements and loads the system less during boot. Second, it boots far faster than Vista. I do not know if CPU-Z is available for Linux though; perhaps it works in Wine?


----------



## pez

Random question for you guys: Do you guys use gaming keyboards (w/ illumination)? If so, which ones do you guys like best? I need something nice







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Random question for you guys: Do you guys use gaming keyboards (w/ illumination)? If so, which ones do you guys like best? I need something nice







.


I rock with the Logitech Illuminated Keyboard presently. Though not marketed as a "gaming keyboard" per se, I've found it to be more than adequate for FPS gaming. It's awesome to type on as well! Once I'm on home row, I never miss with this puppy.









I've also tried the Razer Lycosa. While it's tough to beat when it comes to looks, there are simply far too many quality control issues with this product. OCNers love this keyboard, however, despite the myriad reports of key presses not registering, or keys being stuck, or the touch-activated media controls being goofy, or the key illumination flashing on and off like a disco. By the way, when I was using this keyboard, I experienced all of these problems (which did not go away with software reinstallations or unplugging + replugging in the USB connector) with mine. I did not RMA mine because, although Razer acknowledged the existence of the problem publicly, they only acknowledged that the problem exists for a product within a certain range of serial numbers. Mine wasn't in that batch...

I've kept mine because I want to try to fix it someday. There exists an article which shows how to attempt a repair, but I've not had the time nor inclination to work on this yet.

I've also got the Lycosa's older sister, the Tarantula. I've not tested this product yet, but will do so imminently.







By all accounts, though, the Tarantula is not as plagued with problems as the sexier-looking Lycosa is.


----------



## eviloverclocker

Question, I had my little 4200+ running at 2.75 ghz, run an orthos test and 3dmark 06 at that clock speed. It runs stable at that clock. CoreTemp shows 32-35 degrees on the cores at idle, and 49-55 degrees at load. It seems like my cpu has a lot more oc to go. I was wondering if I could go further with some DR500. I will post my stats in a few.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eviloverclocker*


Question, I had my little 4200+ running at 2.75 ghz, run an orthos test and 3dmark 06 at that clock speed. It runs stable at that clock. CoreTemp shows 32-35 degrees on the cores at idle, and 49-55 degrees at load. It seems like my cpu has a lot more oc to go. *I was wondering if I could go further with some DR500*. I will post my stats in a few.


Well, this depends on whether or not your RAM is holding back the overclock as you've presently got it. In other words, if you have run out of functional dividers for the RAM speeds and you can no longer slow it down so the memory doesn't hit its own peak speed, running DDR500-capable RAM won't really help you much.









Of course, if you mean you want to keep a high CPU speed and match that with as high a memory speed as possible, then DDR500-capable RAM may allow you to do that.









Hope this helps!


----------



## eviloverclocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Well, this depends on whether or not your RAM is holding back the overclock as you've presently got it. In other words, if you have run out of functional dividers for the RAM speeds and you can no longer slow it down so the memory doesn't hit its own peak speed, running DDR500-capable RAM won't really help you much.









Of course, if you mean you want to keep a high CPU speed and match that with as high a memory speed as possible, then DDR500-capable RAM may allow you to do that.









Hope this helps!










 It seems to have more headroom, but what I think I need is some better ram. This is the most OC I have ever done on this chip. Runs good. Temps are good.









http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...wOverclock.jpg


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Random question for you guys: Do you guys use gaming keyboards (w/ illumination)? If so, which ones do you guys like best? I need something nice







.


Pez, I haven't tried any keyboards with illumination yet...sounds nifty though. I'm using a keyboard that came with a HP Proliant server









Quote:



Originally Posted by *eviloverclocker*


It seems to have more headroom, but what I think I need is some better ram. This is the most OC I have ever done on this chip. Runs good. Temps are good.









http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...wOverclock.jpg


Eviloverclocker, you have plenty of room. Why worry about your memory now? CPU speed is the king when it comes to AMD processors. Just use a lower memory divider for the time being. You're doing great so far. Keep pushing that processor. One thing to keep in mind is you may have to adjust is your chipset voltage to compensate for the high HTT (reference clock).

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Or, as Joe said, you may need a lower divider. The only time anyone NEEDS DDR 500 is if they are running a 401 MHz HTT with a 200:100 ratio and the RAM is not stable at DDR 401 even with the loosest possible timings (usually 3-5-5-12-2T).

Otherwise, DDR 500 is just gravy.


----------



## eviloverclocker

Cool, thanks. Trying to get to 3.2 ghz. Who knows. I got more dividers I can work with. The chipset voltage is still at stock, so I'll find its stock limit and bump it up in small increments. I was surprized it would run that fast. Seen somebody else running at 2.8. Thats cool!!!


----------



## Blitz6804

Some Toledos are certainly capable of 3.0 GHz or more. The question of course is can yours operate in that fashion. I notice your voltage is already at 1.456 V. Is this what your A8N defaulted to, or did you set it that high to be stable?


----------



## eviloverclocker

It defaulted, I turned it down. I got it at 1.425. I could probibly go lower. It wasn't getting hot at that voltage, but I didn't want to risk it.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eviloverclocker*


It defaulted, I turned it down. I got it at 1.425. I could probibly go lower. It wasn't getting hot at that voltage, but I didn't want to risk it.


good decision.


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, I was asking, because at some point you may need to increase the voltage to keep the clocks going. On my Toledo, I needed 1.540 V to break 3.1 GHz with four RAM DIMMs installed. You always want the lowest voltage you can use while maintaining stability though. I would not exceed 1.600 V on air, 1.700 V on water during a suicide. 1.500 V and 1.650 V respectively for 24/7 settings. (Please forget that I tried 1.800 V on air cooling.)


----------



## eviloverclocker

I had an fx-55 in this board before, but it would never hit a +500mhz Oc on air. It didn't matter where I set it, just got too hot. I guess the only thing it had that this one doesn't is an unlocked multiplier. I can always lower the multiplier and ram and raise the fsb and cpu voltage. Just gotta watch those temps lol!!!


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, considering the FX-55 with a 500 MHz OC would be 3.1 GHz, that is already impressive in its own right.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eviloverclocker* 
It defaulted, I turned it down. I got it at 1.425. I could probibly go lower. It wasn't getting hot at that voltage, but I didn't want to risk it.

Eviloverclocker, the default voltage for the Toledo/Denmark core is 1.3Volts - 1.35volts. Give 1.35volts a try and see how far you can go with that first. It might be also advisable to you leave the multiplier (11x) at it's factory setting. The higher it is the lower the HTT you will have to be. That usually means less stress on the chipset.

Good luck


----------



## eviloverclocker

Gotcha, I'll lower it. Even at stock, the default voltages on the board are too high. I have to turn them down. I'll also try it at the default 11x multi.


----------



## Blitz6804

Stock here not referring to the motherboard, but to the processor, that is, 1.350 V.

My Abit AT8-32X and 4400+ Toledo read 1.380 V when set to auto. I got 2.8 GHz rock-solid stable at that.


----------



## eviloverclocker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Stock here not referring to the motherboard, but to the processor, that is, 1.350 V.

My Abit A8N-32X and 4400+ Toledo read 1.380 V when set to auto. I got 2.8 GHz rock-solid stable at that.


I know the specs, but my board always defaults vcore at 1.4. I got it running at 1.375 now at 2.8ghz. Going to run tests, got my multi at 11x.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eviloverclocker* 
Gotcha, I'll lower it. Even at stock, the default voltages on the board are too high. I have to turn them down. I'll also try it at the default 11x multi.

Eviloverclocker, you could even try 1.3volts. I was lucky enough to hit 2.8Ghz at 1.29volts (according to Everest). Have you tried finding the limits of your chipset yet? That will give you nice baseline to start off with.

Good luck

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eviloverclocker* 
I know the specs, but my board always defaults vcore at 1.4. I got it running at 1.375 now at 2.8ghz. Going to run tests, got my multi at 11x.

Your board doesn't offer any settings below 1.4volts?


----------



## Blitz6804

It might be that when he sets it to 1.350 V in the BIOS, it reads 1.375 V in the OS.


----------



## eviloverclocker

Heres what I got now.

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...n/Capture2.jpg


----------



## txtmstrjoe

If your Asus is anything like mine, if CPU Voltage (VCore) is left on "Auto," it *will* send a reported 1.4V for VCore. It's a little Asus-specific quirk.









Accordingly, just set your VCore manually to whatever level you need (1.3V, 1.35V, whatever). Stock VCore for Asus is *not* the CPU's actual stock VCore.









Good luck!


----------



## eviloverclocker

Yes but I really don't remember what it was. I checked it a week after I got this board. Thats been almost 2 years ago. I got my fx55 over 3ghz. Of coarse it runs stock at 2.6. I need to do the math again.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eviloverclocker* 
Heres what I got now.

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...n/Capture2.jpg

Eviloverclocker, I specifically remember this BIOS as well. I had this board for a while. You can set the Vcore as low as 0.800volts. If it's set on AUTO please take it off and manually enter the values (as Joe stated).

Also have a look in the _Power_ -> _Hardware Monitor_ section to see if your changes went through.

Good luck


----------



## eviloverclocker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Eviloverclocker, you could even try 1.3volts. I was lucky enough to hit 2.8Ghz at 1.29volts (according to Everest). Have you tried finding the limits of your chipset yet? That will give you nice baseline to start off with.

Good luck

Your board doesn't offer any settings below 1.4volts?

Yes it will much lower. I am going to try it at 1.3.


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


TestECull: Linux may not be a bad idea in place of Vista. First, it has far lower system requirements and loads the system less during boot. Second, it boots far faster than Vista. I do not know if CPU-Z is available for Linux though; perhaps it works in Wine?



:\\ I don't have any bootable Ubuntu 64 discs, and my router's too much of a pile to download one.

Besides, Windows is more challenging, I still wanna try for a 3.0ghz boot.









You did, however, list the reasons I'd love to go to Linux. Too bad there isn't a distro with a bug-free D3D engine in it...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Random question for you guys: Do you guys use gaming keyboards (w/ illumination)? If so, which ones do you guys like best? I need something nice







.



I'm just fine using a three dollar Compaq keyboard.


----------



## pez

That gave me an idea to try my computer at 1.3 when I get home today. Just to see if my temps will go down even more.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I have one laying around w/an amd duron 800


Cool, my previous rig was an 800MHz Socket 462/A Duron.
I gave it to my sister when she needed it a few years back, but now she just keeps it in a corner somewhere. Might be able to steal it back as we are going to celebrate Christmas over at her place this year, hehe








Might even get a new CPU for it, Duron being only a budget CPU. Maybe an Athlon XP?







Not sure if the motherboard will support one though.


----------



## eviloverclocker

Its running at 1.3volts. Temps did not change at all according to Core Temp, 32c idle, 44-52c load. Ran Orthos for 2 minutes, running stable so far. 2.8ghz. Going to further test the system and see if I can push more. I'm also going to lower the cpu voltage more to see if it posts.


----------



## eviloverclocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


Cool, my previous rig was an 800MHz Socket 462/A Duron.
I gave it to my sister when she needed it a few years back, but now she just keeps it in a corner somewhere. Might be able to steal it back as we are going to celebrate Christmas over at her place this year, hehe








Might even get a new CPU for it, Duron being only a budget CPU. Maybe an Athlon XP?







Not sure if the motherboard will support one though.


Used to have a 900ghz Athlon. I miss my old Sempron 2800+ and albatron board, got it up to 2.4ghz. I miss the 462 days. That was my UT 2004 rig. Sold it to one of my friends he still uses it to this day, I want to see if I can buy it back.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eviloverclocker*


Its running at 1.3volts. Temps did not change at all according to Core Temp, 32c idle, 44-52c load. Ran Orthos for 2 minutes, running stable so far. 2.8ghz. Going to further test the system and see if I can push more. I'm also going to lower the cpu voltage more to see if it posts.


Eviloverclocker, congrats on that overclock









This is another reason why I love the Toledo/Denmark cores.

Good luck


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eviloverclocker*


Used to have a *900ghz Athlon*. I miss my old Sempron 2800+ and albatron board, got it up to 2.4ghz. I miss the 462 days. That was my UT 2004 rig. Sold it to one of my friends he still uses it to this day, I want to see if I can buy it back.



We all wish, lol.

think3r: I believe the X2 4200+ I'm getting is a Toledo. It will be interesting to see what my board can do with it.


----------



## eviloverclocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


We all wish, lol.

think3r: I believe the X2 4200+ I'm getting is a Toledo. It will be interesting to see what my board can do with it.


OOPS lol!!! I wish too, mhz. I was multitasking, had a system error lol!!!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


I'm just fine using a three dollar Compaq keyboard.










I have a generic PC 98 I purchased at fry's years ago that I like for gaming. it fit's my hands and the keys are not easily/accidentally pressed. I have kind of big hands so the little laptop keyboards and things of the sort with very sentive keys make me type all kinds of stuff not intended. I did like the look of the logitech txtmstrjoe has. I could see using a lighted keyboard for night time when using the pc w/out any lights. I would make it easier to find the keys.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


Cool, my previous rig was an 800MHz Socket 462/A Duron.
I gave it to my sister when she needed it a few years back, but now she just keeps it in a corner somewhere. Might be able to steal it back as we are going to celebrate Christmas over at her place this year, hehe








Might even get a new CPU for it, Duron being only a budget CPU. Maybe an Athlon XP?







Not sure if the motherboard will support one though.


good luck finding the cpu for this socket! old school. my mobo is A8KTA2L. I still have the original box cd rom manual. I keep all that stuff like I'm going to need it some day.


----------



## Blitz6804

"Lighted" is not a word. I do not own an illuminated keyboard Pez. I have a Microsoft Office Keyboard. I dislike both keyboards that Joe has linked for them being scissor springs. I absolutely hate that type of keyboard. If it were practical, I would bring a generic keyboard with my laptop so I need not use that type of key then either. I personally like classical springs with a loud report.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I personally like classical springs with a loud report.


So do I








Here's mine


----------



## N2Gaming

yes sound is good with a little resistance to depression which happens to be the state I'm in. sorry for the ******* hillbilly un-edgamacated words like lighted. how about lit up. which is how some people get when others correct them.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes, I do like getting lit. You volunteering to supply me? I warn you I have a high tolerance!

As you said N2Gaming, I like there to be a level of pressure required to push the keys. With my laptop's near-zero resistance, I have constant typos. I wonder if anyone ever converted a type writer into a computer keyboard? Now THEY have some nice resistance on them.

Unless I am mistaken HothBase, Duron:AthlonXP::Sempron:Athlon64. AthlonXP is Socket A. I still run a Barton whenever I need a Call of Duty 4 dedicated server.


----------



## N2Gaming

not at all my electic bill is high enough as it is. Besides I'd never challenge some one for simpleton reasons. so the tpye of springs used is what makes the difference?


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Unless I am mistaken HothBase, Duron:AthlonXP::Sempron:Athlon64. AthlonXP is Socket A.

Yup, but even so, I have heard that there can be some compatibility issues when it comes to Socket A.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Socket_a*
"while the socket has remained pin compatible throughout its lifetime, clock, timing, BIOS and voltage issues restrict compatibility between older chipsets and later processors"


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Yes, I do like getting lit. You volunteering to supply me? I warn you I have a high tolerance!


Sorry I'm a little slow. I just got it. give me the address and I'll send you a picture of some people getting lit. that's the best I can do.









Has any one seen the new layout on ebay. they have the time to auction ends in real time. *LOOK* this ebay item is not mine by the way it's one I'm watching.


----------



## Blitz6804

My Socket A boards were a VIA KT400 and a VIA KT600. They hardly worked right on a good day.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


"Lighted" is not a word.


Everyone please welcome our new automated dictionary bot









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Duron:AthlonXP::Sempron:Athlon64. AthlonXP is Socket A.


Blitz, there are Socket A Sempron's if that is what you're wondering.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

*Checks currently active list.*

Please join our club mekanism... you and your 3800+ will be very happy here!

Thlnk3r: stop being a wiseacre; that is my job.


----------



## N2Gaming

it's a good thing cause it ain't my yob main


----------



## majakone

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eviloverclocker*


OOPS lol!!! I wish too, mhz. I was multitasking, had a system error lol!!!


nice work with that A8N board had the same board before I switched to this Expert


----------



## BlackOmega

Hey fellers, So when is this OCing competition going down? On a weekend I hope. I just started some intensive traing, its going to last 3weeks. 9am to 4pm. Anyway, I just found something perty sweet. A littel computer store around the corner from me has a table full of either 2800+ or 3200+ (cant remember) for $30 new retail.







. Think I might get one just to cook it







now as for a another mobo........


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
A littel computer store around the corner from me has a table full of either 2800+ or 3200+ (cant remember) for $30 new retail.







. Think I might get one just to cook it







now as for a another mobo........

BlackOmega, that is a pretty good deal. They could be Sempron 2800+ all though that would make it Socket 754. Those were also great processors. Many of the older Sempron 2800+ were hitting 2.6Ghz (stock was 1.6Ghz). I wonder if the 3200+'s are NewCastle/Clawhammers or Venice's









If you decide to pick one up let us know

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

O yeah and BTW I use a Saitek Eclipse 1


















Its actually a really nice KB. Quiet keys, good pressure onboard volume and light intensity controls. This one I got is brand new, I had to RMA my old one after 3 years. The buttons started going haywire. Called em up, sent my old one back, they sent me a new one.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, that is a pretty good deal. They could be Sempron 2800+ all though that would make it Socket 754. Those were also great processors. Many of the older Sempron 2800+ were hitting 2.6Ghz (stock was 1.6Ghz). I wonder if the 3200+'s are NewCastle/Clawhammers or Venice's









If you decide to pick one up let us know

Good luck

I'm 99.9% positive that theyre 939 socket, so I guess theyd be the 3200+. Hes got like 10 of em. Wonder if I made em a deal on all of em if he'd drop the price some more.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hey guys (and gal), I'll make a big push to make sure our officers ratify our rules package by this weekend. I have to confess that I've slacked off a little bit







on this, what with the recent holiday and having other things to keep my plate full.

I promise, though, that our Club-exclusive contest will be ready to fly in about a couple of weeks, tops!







Since the contest concept is relatively straightforward, it ought to be easy enough to come to a consensus agreement amongst our officers.









Thanks for your interest, and more importantly, for your patience.


----------



## BlackOmega

O snap! Theyre the venice (3500+) and hes sold a bunch of em, theres only 2 left! I better go get one!


----------



## BlackOmega

If anyone wants one Id gladly get it for you. Shipping to most places (ground) is about $10.


----------



## N2Gaming

*HERE* is a brand new venice 3000+ for $20.00 hope it helps.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Hey guys (and gal), I'll make a big push to make sure our officers ratify our rules package by this weekend. I have to confess that I've slacked off a little bit







on this, what with the recent holiday and having other things to keep my plate full.

I promise, though, that our Club-exclusive contest will be ready to fly in about a couple of weeks, tops!







Since the contest concept is relatively straightforward, it ought to be easy enough to come to a consensus agreement amongst our officers.









Thanks for your interest, and more importantly, for your patience.









Have you released any other details about this contest? I must have missed them if you did







.

Oh and please don't have it be this weekend, I'm going to my cousin's wedding in Vermont







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
Have you released any other details about this contest? I must have missed them if you did







.

Oh and please don't have it be this weekend, I'm going to my cousin's wedding in Vermont







.

hope it's indoors or it could get a little cold


----------



## Blitz6804

It does not get cold in Vermont? Do not believe me, compare Vermont to Calgary. Quot erat demonstrandum.


----------



## N2Gaming

OK well I'm in north cali and I'm already cold. I must be a cold-wussy.


----------



## eviloverclocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *majakone*


nice work with that A8N board had the same board before I switched to this Expert










Thanx, I hit a wall though. I got to 2.91ghz and it crashed lol!!! Luckily I was able to clear the cmos and post. I'll try it again later with some different memory. I like my board. I've had it for a long time and its never failed me.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eviloverclocker*


Thanx, I hit a wall though. I got to 2.91ghz and it crashed lol!!! Luckily I was able to clear the cmos and post. I'll try it again later with some different memory. I like my board. I've had it for a long time and its never failed me.










I, too, love the A8N-series motherboards.







The A8N32-SLI is still probably my favorite motherboard, if only because it's unbelievably user-friendly as well as powerful enough in overclocking. I don't believe it can match a DFI, say, the LANParty UT nF4-SLI DR Expert or the Venus, or a well-sorted CFX3200-DR when it comes to ultimate OCing, but it's still powerful enough.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


OK well I'm in north cali and I'm already cold. I must be a cold-wussy.










Well I live in maine and I love the cold







(to a point of course, 25 is too cold







)


----------



## N2Gaming

Yeah, I guess that makes me a cold-wussy cause it's only 45 here and Iim already cold.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eviloverclocker*


Thanx, I hit a wall though. I got to 2.91ghz and it crashed lol!!! Luckily I was able to clear the cmos and post. I'll try it again later with some different memory. I like my board. I've had it for a long time and its never failed me.










Eviloverclocker, was this on stock voltage (1.3volts)? How long was it stress testing in Orthos?

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Cold at 45? How are you going to survive the party in Buffalo next September?

(Again, I reiterate, I will be hosing a party here September 3, 2009. Food is provided. Limited on-premises accommodations are available. Limited alcohol stores are available, I encourage people to bring some with them though. Those not staying on premises should have designated drivers, perhaps, hook up with an underage patron who would not be allowed to drive anyway.)

eviloverclocker: You did remember that you lowered the voltage to 1.300 V right? Raising it back up a fuzz might increase headroom.


----------



## N2Gaming

I'll bundle up, drink em up and play it off like I'm not even cold.







what's in september 2009 I mean any thing significant happening other then a party.


----------



## majakone

COLD? try living in colorado all winter , I have to overvolt my rig just to keep warm


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
So do I








Here's mine

That's the exact keyboard I have lol. I love this keyboard, but it's not loud at all. It's not the most quiet, but still. I'm just kinda sad that my a, s, and d button have rubbed off...wonder what that's from







.


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JEmmaB* 
iTunes must not be installed; and "hidden files and folders" option must be turned on. Once the ipod is connected to your pc; go to F:iPod_ControlMusic.

All your music is there just named differently.









Thanks worked just fine


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *majakone* 
COLD? try living in colorado all winter , I have to overvolt my rig just to keep warm

NO THANKS!!! I had to deliver a load of 10 cars to Salt Lake city while it was snowing, it sucked big time. I was only out there for about 10 min and I had to get back in the truck to thaw out I could not feel my finger tips. This was with snow gloves and an extra pair of gloves on under those...


----------



## Blitz6804

Wow... you crazy Californians...

Last year, we had wind chills below 40Âº below zero a couple of nights in January. THAT is actually cold.


----------



## N2Gaming

No arguments by me. too cold for my warm blooded self.


----------



## eviloverclocker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Eviloverclocker, was this on stock voltage (1.3volts)? That is extremely well in my opinion. How long was it stress testing in Orthos?

Good luck









I tested it for 5 mins. Then I started going up on the fsb, it crashed 5mhz later. Then I up the voltage to 1.325, crashed again. So I went to 1.4 Volts at 2.85ghz then to 2.9. It Orthos tested for 30 sec and errored. I uped the volts a little more and crashed at the windows boot screen at 2.91ghz. thats it I guess. Any ideas?


----------



## eviloverclocker

I did run Orthos, then 3dMark 06, and played UT3 for about an hour before I tried to go higher. I was running max settings on UT, 3dmark was run at max resolution, 4xAA.


----------



## N2Gaming

have you found out what the limits are for all three major players. mobo, cpu, ram to be exact??? that may tell you or give you a better idea if raising voltage is going to do you any good or not.


----------



## eviloverclocker

I am going to go through the steps now using the guide I got off here. Now if I can find it, I got it bookmarked.


----------



## Blitz6804

You remembered to drop your RAM divider at some point? 265 MHz HTT with a 200:166 divider is likely DDR 416.

See also:

http://www.overclock.net/4749410-post33.html


----------



## eviloverclocker

Well, I thought I did.


----------



## eviloverclocker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
You remembered to drop your RAM divider at some point? 265 MHz HTT with a 200:166 divider is likely DDR 416.

See also:

http://www.overclock.net/4749410-post33.html

Yes I got it at 133mhz. Thought about going 100mhz.


----------



## Blitz6804

Do you know what you have your tRC/tRFC set to? What are the main timings as compared to their SPDs? What RAM do you have?


----------



## eviloverclocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Do you know what you have your tRC/tRFC set to? What are the main timings as compared to their SPDs? What RAM do you have?


 My memory is Kingston Hyper X ddr 400.trc at 9 and trfc at 12. Got the timings kinda loose for now. Got my HTT at 4x.


----------



## Blitz6804

Try dropping loosening tRC to 12, tRFC to 16. If that fails, try either cutting the HTT to 3x, or give the hypertransport voltage a single unit bump.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *majakone*


I have to overvolt my rig just to keep warm


----------



## eviloverclocker

Gotcha, Got it at 4x now, seems too high. I'll try the loosening those timings. I found out what my wall was. Bad sound card or pci slot, but its the only slot I can use, SLI.


----------



## eviloverclocker

Going back to the drawing board. Has to be my ram. Bam, a brick wall no matter what I do. Slacking the timings got me 1 mhz. I raised my vcore with no luck.


----------



## Blitz6804

Is your northbridge overvolted? I seem to recall it already was.

Try reducing your CPU multiplier to 10x. Do you get the ability to increase the HTT any higher? It is possible you are near your HTT hole.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eviloverclocker* 
Going back to the drawing board. Has to be my ram. Bam, a brick wall no matter what I do. Slacking the timings got me 1 mhz. I raised my vcore with no luck.

How about using the biggest (i.e., slowest speed) RAM divider (100MHz)?

It could also be as Blitz suggested: Your motherboard may have a so-called "FSB Hole."


----------



## eviloverclocker

I can go lower on my HTT, I had my cpu at 10x to get 2.8ghz stable, well for the 5 mins I tested it. Im at 11x now, and having stability probs. I'm going to drop mem to 100 now and retest my max cpu speed. I appreciate you guys and gals helping me. I'll get it higher eventually. Just got to recheck to make sure I got all my ducks in a row. As for the northbridge, Its overvolted.


----------



## TestECull

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, that is a pretty good deal. They could be Sempron 2800+ all though that would make it Socket 754. Those were also great processors. Many of the older Sempron 2800+ were hitting 2.6Ghz (stock was 1.6Ghz). I wonder if the 3200+'s are NewCastle/Clawhammers or Venice's









If you decide to pick one up let us know

Good luck


IF you get lucky, you might get a choice core and get 2.75 out of one. Let us know where ya get.


----------



## N2Gaming

WOW! My opty 180 rig just shut off for the first time ever due to the temperature safety set in bios. I have it set to shut off at 60. So while I was playing Bioshock it just powered off like someone hit the power switch. I went into bios and sure enough she's a running hot. maybe I'll take the side cover back off and see if that helps.


----------



## eviloverclocker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
WOW! My opty 180 rig just shut off for the first time ever due to the temperature safety set in bios. I have it set to shut off at 60. So while I was playing Bioshock it just powered off like someone hit the power switch. I went into bios and sure enough she's a running hot. maybe I'll take the side cover back off and see if that helps.


I got the side of my case off. I was pushing the snot out of my rig and was worried about airflow. Is your house warm?


----------



## N2Gaming

no I'm sitting at about 68F inside my house but my pc has been on all day with a chassis that is not designed for a lot of air flow. I have a 80mm fan in the front and a smaller one out the back in addition to the two exhauste fans in the power supply. two video cards and the opty 180 makes for a lot of heat. I think I'll put it in a antec 900 and see if that helps. not right now though I'm tired been cleaning house all day.


----------



## eviloverclocker

Gotcha. I got to get a new case as well. I've got a 120 front and back, a 92 in the side and 120 on my psu. Two vids, all that gets hot as well. Going to get some new ram and see if I can push my proc further. I got to get some shut eye as well. 11:04 l8r.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eviloverclocker*


I can go lower on my HTT, I had my cpu at 10x to get 2.8ghz stable, well for the 5 mins I tested it. Im at 11x now, and having stability probs. I'm going to drop mem to 100 now and retest my max cpu speed. I appreciate you guys and gals helping me. I'll get it higher eventually. Just got to recheck to make sure I got all my ducks in a row. As for the northbridge, Its overvolted.


Eviloverclocker, if you were able to run a 10x multiplier (10x * 280HTT) then I doubt your chipset is holding you back. With 11x multiplier, you were probably running around 260HTT which is still significantly low. Perhaps a .10+ in chipset voltage wouldn't hurt for testing purposes.

I'm with Joe on this one. I'd suggest using the lowest memory divider while testing your processor overclock. That way we know for sure your memory isn't holding you back. Loosening the timings is also a smart move. There's really no need to purchase new memory. If you're stuck at a certain HTT then that's a motherboard limitation not memory(with the memory being on it's lowest divider).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


WOW! My opty 180 rig just shut off for the first time ever due to the temperature safety set in bios. I have it set to shut off at 60. So while I was playing Bioshock it just powered off like someone hit the power switch. I went into bios and sure enough she's a running hot. maybe I'll take the side cover back off and see if that helps.


N2Gaming, what kind of case are you running with your Opteron 180? Are you sure it wasn't your motherboard temperature that caused the shutdown. The nForce 4 chipset gets pretty warm during load.

Good luck guys


----------



## eviloverclocker

Cool, its prob the mobo, I haven't run it at 100mhz yet. I'm gonna try it tomorrow. No too bad for a days work. I know by the way this things are running it has more mhz. in it. Just gotta do my homework.


----------



## pez

I need to get a new case as well, but I think I may wait 'til I go to a new platform. I wouldn't want to get a Cosmos S and just have this in it lol. IDK, I want to splurge on my next rig.


----------



## eviloverclocker

I'm gonna wait as well. Order all my new parts together and keep my old computer i'm currently for folding or for my daughters school work and games. I am waiting for the new amd x4s to come out in early 2009. Can't wait!!!


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eviloverclocker*


I'm gonna wait as well. Order all my new parts together and keep my old computer i'm currently for folding or for my daughters school work and games. I am waiting for the new amd x4s to come out in early 2009. Can't wait!!!


Yeah, the x58 may make me convert to Intel if they don't make motherboards on the AMD side like the i7's have.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, what kind of case are you running with your Opteron 180? Are you sure it wasn't your motherboard temperature that caused the shutdown. The nForce 4 chipset gets pretty warm during load. 
Good luck guys










I don't know the make or model so I figured I would just show you what I'm working with. *














*









the bottom pic shows how small the rear exhauste fan is. My guess is that since I recently put the side cover back on only yesterday because I cleaned up the room "big improvement by the way" I can walk in here again.







That is why it started getting hot again. I have had the side cover off since installing the opty 180 becuase I was having a heat issue with one of the componants on the board I don't remember what it's called but it has the heat sinks on them just below the cpu. I was going to add some kind of fan over them and just never got around to it. I tried but did not want to fry any thing should the fan I rig up come loose. Oh and yes I think the mobo is why it shut down. If I have the bios set to shut down at 60C then does it shut down regardless of the coponat that reaches that temp. ie if the cpu, chipset or power thingies get to hot it's shuts down regardless of which one it is?


----------



## pez

OMG that case is horrible. I actually love my case still. Despite it's cable management isn't the best, but I've still done pretty good w/ it, and it promotes a decent airflow.


----------



## N2Gaming

Well It was free. I won it in a raffle years ago at a computer convention with Gigabyte and some other vendors. Plus it has boltless thingies. I can put the floppy cd rom etc inside the case without any screws face plate pops right off with a little tug and the side cover has one thumb screw. So before the opty 180 & two video cards, I really had no issues with heat. This case has and will continue to serve some purpose just not one that requires a lot of cooling.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Well It was free. I won it in a raffle years ago at a computer convention with Gigabyte and some other vendors. Plus it has boltless thingies. I can put the floppy cd rom etc inside the case without any screws face plate pops right off with a little tug and the side cover has one thumb screw. So before the opty 180 & two video cards, I really had no issues with heat. This case has and will continue to serve some purpose just not one that requires a lot of cooling.


N2Gaming, was the case closed when the machine shutdown? More than likely it's just an airflow issue. You have a 80mm intake fan and a 70mm exhaust fan which doesn't seem like enough. The two SLI cards also contribute to the heat output so that doesn't help as well. What is this machine used for? If you feel dangerous you could always mod the front of the case to fit a 120mm fan. That would provide better cooling for your video cards.

Good luck bud


----------



## N2Gaming

Think3r, the side cover was on when it shut off. I use it for email, gaming, picuture storage, etc. I could do a mod on the front but I'm not sure if I'm going to keep these video cards in this machine. the airflow of the video card is from the rear of the chassis to the front so if I put a big fan in the front It would probably be an exhuaste fan. I might be able to get away with a couple of 80mm on top for exhauste and then put a 200 on the side cover for intake. Nope scratch that idea. 200mm wont fit unless it's mounted on the outside of the chassis and that's just fugly. So I'll just wait on any mods for now. thanks for the suggestion.


----------



## thlnk3r

N2Gaming, would you happen to know the full load temp of your chipset? What is the fan speed set to on the nForce4 chipset? That fan is thermally controlled as well.

Good luck


----------



## eviloverclocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Well It was free. I won it in a raffle years ago at a computer convention with Gigabyte and some other vendors. Plus it has boltless thingies. I can put the floppy cd rom etc inside the case without any screws face plate pops right off with a little tug and the side cover has one thumb screw. So before the opty 180 & two video cards, I really had no issues with heat. This case has and will continue to serve some purpose just not one that requires a lot of cooling.



We you can't beat free!!! I got a case free from a friend. It was an old Compac case that housed an old p3 setup. I gutted it, put some new fans in and painted it neon Orange, lol. It was cool with blacklights and case lights, but was ugly as he11 in the light. I still got the case somewhere.


----------



## N2Gaming

I have it set to turn on fully at 35C I don't know the actual temps under load because I don't have any motherboard monitoring software that I know how to use for that purpose.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I have it set to turn on fully at 35C I don't know the actual temps under load because I don't have any motherboard monitoring software that I know how to use for that purpose.


N2Gaming, give Everest a try. I run it on my DFI nForce4 SLI-DR board and it displays both motherboard(PWM) and chipset temperatures. Go to Computer -> Sensor to view the temperature readings. Try running 30 minutes in Orthos (priority 9 with blend) to see what kind of results you get.

Good luck


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Think3r, the side cover was on when it shut off. I use it for email, gaming, picuture storage, etc. I could do a mod on the front but I'm not sure if I'm going to keep these video cards in this machine. the airflow of the video card is from the rear of the chassis to the front so if I put a big fan in the front It would probably be an exhuaste fan. I might be able to get away with a couple of 80mm on top for exhauste and then put a 200 on the side cover for intake. Nope scratch that idea. 200mm wont fit unless it's mounted on the outside of the chassis and that's just fugly. So I'll just wait on any mods for now. thanks for the suggestion.


Usually removing the side will significantly reduce the airflow and give you a higher chance of getting foreign matter in your fans, heatsinks, etc. BTW, I don't think the case could get much fuglier







JK







.

I've been thinking of buying another 120mm fan to make a tunnel for my video cards for when I get the second one.


----------



## N2Gaming

will it display those temps w/the free trial ver:?


----------



## Blitz6804

Why are the 8600GTSes in your Opty 180 instead of your Brisbane, I am just curious. Not to sound *too* hypocritical, but I think a wire reroute could be in order. I know it sounds like a minor thing, but I decreased my CPU temperature by 3Âº C between a massive ball of wires and a minor ball of wires.

As to cases, I am coveting an XClio 1000. Eight 180mm fans (3 in in the front, three in on the door, two out on the top) and two optional 140mm exhaust fans in the rear. Talk about the ultimate in airflow! For the 6 fans with LEDs, you can pick red, green, or blue via switches. A huge plus in my opinion also is that the door need not be open to switch on the PC nor be open during its operation.

Everest is 30-day trialware. You must uninstall or purchase it within 30 days.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


I've been thinking of buying another 120mm fan to make a tunnel for my video cards for when I get the second one.


 let us know how that tunnel works


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Why are the 8600GTSes in your Opty 180 instead of your Brisbane, I am just curious. Not to sound *too* hypocritical, but I think a wire reroute could be in order. I know it sounds like a minor thing, but I decreased my CPU temperature by 3Âº C between a massive ball of wires and a minor ball of wires.

As to cases, I am coveting an XClio 1000. Eight 180mm fans (3 in in the front, three in on the door, two out on the top) and two optional 140mm exhaust fans in the rear. Talk about the ultimate in airflow! For the 6 fans with LEDs, you can pick red, green, or blue via switches. A huge plus in my opinion also is that the door need not be open to switch on the PC nor be open during its operation.

Everest is 30-day trialware. You must uninstall or purchase it within 30 days.


 Nice case, show off!!!







they are in this case becuase I'm not using the brizy for now. I have been testing the other nf4 sli dr from ebay in the BNBB case and while I'm doing Mod's to BNBB I don't need them in that case so I'm taking full advantage of having them by using them in what ever pc I'm gaming on. I have a master plan but it will all come to gether in due time. BNBB is going to be my living room entertainment PC and I'm working on getting a couple of 9800gt oc for it. I have one BFG 6800gt oc agp for trade up and I'm in the works of a second. That's why


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Why are the 8600GTSes in your Opty 180 instead of your Brisbane, I am just curious. Not to sound *too* hypocritical, but I think a wire reroute could be in order. I know it sounds like a minor thing, but I decreased my CPU temperature by 3Âº C between a massive ball of wires and a minor ball of wires.

As to cases, I am coveting an XClio 1000. Eight 180mm fans (3 in in the front, three in on the door, two out on the top) and two optional 140mm exhaust fans in the rear. Talk about the ultimate in airflow! For the 6 fans with LEDs, you can pick red, green, or blue via switches. A huge plus in my opinion also is that the door need not be open to switch on the PC nor be open during its operation.

Everest is 30-day trialware. You must uninstall or purchase it within 30 days.

Blitz, I don't think there is still a minor ball of wires in that case







.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
let us know how that tunnel works









Yeah, I'm trying to figure out all of what I want to do it with/make it out of, and how to attach the fans to it, etc. I'm not sure where to start, and don't want to spend more than $20 trying to do it either (I like to be cheap).

EDIT: Actually, it might just be a hassle and a non-necessity. I'll have to see. I wanted to provide a little extra cooling to my cards w/o having to add one of those tacky PCI bracket coolers. bleh.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
will it display those temps w/the free trial ver:?

N2Gaming, I believe it will. The only temperature it will not display is your hard drive temp.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Why are the 8600GTSes in your Opty 180 instead of your Brisbane, I am just curious. Not to sound *too* hypocritical, but I think a wire reroute could be in order. I know it sounds like a minor thing, but I decreased my CPU temperature by 3Âº C between a massive ball of wires and a minor ball of wires.

Blitz, cleaning up the cables would improve airflow but in his situation I don't think it's really required at this point. I'm not even sure if he has an intake fan. Either way the cables wouldn't be in the way of the case airflow. The 80mm fan placement is on the bottom. In my opinion the case is just too small especially for a SLI setup.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Everest is 30-day trialware. You must uninstall or purchase it within 30 days.

Was is that necessary to post that


----------



## Blitz6804

What is wrong with PCI bracket coolers? I have had one for a long time; was my best exhaust fan when I had my AGP HD 3850. That card, with a single slot cooler, never exceeded 70Âº C. My PCI-E cards get up to 74Âº C with dual-slot coolers.

And yes Pez, this is a comparatively minor ball of wires. You should see what it looked like prior to me rewiring it. (Pioneerisloud still gets nightmares.) I need to get my hands on a dremel.

And yes it was Thlnk3r. As a law student, I feel it necessary to help my fellow man avoid legal issues.


----------



## N2Gaming

Pez, you can always use a cheap cardbaord mock up for trial and error purposes. It's cheap effective and if you screw up you can always throw it in the gutter and go get another "piece of cardboard" he he. twisty ties from loafs of bread come in handy as well. just don't touch anything w/em that can short out.

Blitz, I will buy it if it makes you happy other wise I will just uninstall it and then redownload it and reinstall it. would that be legal?

Think3r, I do have a fan in the front and I found the temp screen in everest ultimate. Thanks


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
What is wrong with PCI bracket coolers? I have had one for a long time; was my best exhaust fan when I had my AGP HD 3850. That card, with a single slot cooler, never exceeded 70Âº C. My PCI-E cards get up to 74Âº C with dual-slot coolers.

And yes Pez, this is a comparatively minor ball of wires. You should see what it looked like prior to me rewiring it. (Pioneerisloud still gets nightmares.) I need to get my hands on a dremel.

And yes it was Thlnk3r. As a law student, I feel it necessary to help my fellow man avoid legal issues.

PCI Bracket coolers do promote good airflow, but I would need two for 2 cards, but if you have a good circulation going, the PCI Bracket cooler will only give you less airflow. When it comes to computers, a lot of things can restrict airflow, even simple IDE cables.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Pez, you can always use a cheap cardbaord mock up for trial and error purposes. It's cheap effective and if you screw up you can always throw it in the gutter and go get another "piece of cardboard" he he. twisty ties from loafs of bread come in handy as well. just don't touch anything w/em that can short out.

Haha yeah, I do have thin cardboard leftover from an old vga card box. Twist ties will never find their way into my computer. I have plenty of zipties. I may have to ghetto rig it to have cardboard to see how the airflow does.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

A general comment about case airflow: In my opinion, fan CFM stats (and, by extension, the number of fans a case has or can mount, nor the size of the fans themselves) are not the end-all be-all when it comes to looking at cases. I personally favor a well-engineered solution which is efficient and promotes good internal aerodynamics. By this I mean a design which will allow the air entering the case to move to and through all the critical components (chipset heatsinks, CPU cooler, GPU cooler, etc.), then exit the case, using the minimum number of fans/minimum possible CFMs.

Since air is a fluid, it goes where it is directed (which is the main function of fans, really). Fans accelerate and direct the flow of air. Having a lot of fans inside a case may theoretically do more harm than good, especially if the fans are not positioned strategically and if the fan power is not directed properly (i.e., having strong fans in the wrong places). Poorly-positioned fans create disrupted internal airflow patterns inside a case, creating turbulence and encouraging the formation of "dead spots" where air doesn't move at all (and where heat pockets form).


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Twist ties will never find their way into my computer. I have plenty of zipties. I may have to ghetto rig it to have cardboard to see how the airflow does.

since your already "maybe going to be ghetto rigging it" why fill our land fills with wasted plastic. ut oh now I'm just turned into the trash police. not funny not funny at all.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
And yes it was Thlnk3r. As a law student, I feel it necessary to help my fellow man avoid legal issues.

Blitz, I highly doubt the internet police will be knocking on his door if he's one day late uninstalling the application.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Think3r, I do have a fan in the front and I found the temp screen in everest ultimate. Thanks

N2Gaming, glad you found it. Close up the case and run a few minutes in Orthos and tell us what happens with the temps. Is your chipset temp around 45C - 50C during load? The stock cooler provides such poor cooling...I never liked it. Plus the noise level from that fan is pretty bad.

Good luck

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Poorly-positioned fans create disrupted internal airflow patterns inside a case, creating turbulence and encouraging the formation of "dead spots" where air doesn't move at all (and where heat pockets form).

Joe, good point about the dead spots. This could be another culprit in regards to N2Gaming's issue.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
since your already "maybe going to be ghetto rigging it" why fill our land fills with wasted plastic. ut oh now I'm just turned into the trash police. not funny not funny at all.

Well, I had a friend have a bright idea to use a twist tie for the fan on like a PIII CPU and he killed the motherboard. I was like, "Dude, I told you not to use a twist tie and just walk 5 minutes down the road to the auto store to get twist ties...durka."


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
A general comment about case airflow: In my opinion, fan CFM stats (and, by extension, the number of fans a case has or can mount, nor the size of the fans themselves) are not the end-all be-all when it comes to looking at cases. I personally favor a well-engineered solution which is efficient and promotes good internal aerodynamics. By this I mean a design which will allow the air entering the case to move to and through all the critical components (chipset heatsinks, CPU cooler, GPU cooler, etc.), then exit the case, using the minimum number of fans/minimum possible CFMs.

Since air is a fluid, it goes where it is directed (which is the main function of fans, really). Fans accelerate and direct the flow of air. Having a lot of fans inside a case may theoretically do more harm than good, especially if the fans are not positioned strategically and if the fan power is not directed properly (i.e., having strong fans in the wrong places). Poorly-positioned fans create disrupted internal airflow patterns inside a case, creating turbulence and encouraging the formation of "dead spots" where air doesn't move at all (and where heat pockets form).

Damn straight. The only bonus I have to being a smoker is I can easily see where the flow is!









Umm guess I could use incense? Nah that could hurt my lungs!


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
since your already "maybe going to be ghetto rigging it" why fill our land fills with wasted plastic. ut oh now I'm just turned into the trash police. not funny not funny at all.

masking or scotch tape is great for quick mockups and templateing.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Well, I had a friend have a bright idea to use a twist tie for the fan on like a PIII CPU and he killed the motherboard. I was like, "Dude, I told you not to use a twist tie and just walk 5 minutes down the road to the auto store to get twist ties...durka."


I have a roll of Wire just to mount objects. If you are careful you should have no problems. My HS is wired down. Makes it a PITA to remove (reason why I still haven't looked at the chip, if you all remember When I got it it was supposed to be a dual core) But the mount is rock solid.

Talking about Ghetto, My neighbors mount was broken when I replaced his caps and I had a hard time getting the HS to stay level so I leveled it with my buddies kids play dough! LMBO it worked the bomb and his temps are the best they have ever been!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


masking or scotch tape is great for quick mockups and templateing.


Hueristic, I use scotch tape a lot for securing wires to the chassis.







I think the problem with my case is the thingies/heatsinks to the side of my cpu is in an area where there is no air flow. the case may have been designed for micro atx who know's I could never find out who made it but one thing is for sure I like it and it's very stout.

thinker, this is what I have after 40 min of orthose. of course it's not as hot as it would be while playing a game cause orthose does not stress the gpu's as much as a game right??? any way that's why I left Bioshock on while running orthose thought it might help heat things up quicker so we can see what's going on.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hueristic, I use scotch tape a lot for securing wires to the chassis.










Necessity is the mother of invention.









don't forget scotch tape will eventually become brittle and break.









Edit: As you guys can probably tell I have the keyboard in my lap as opposed to only haveing access to the mouse most of the time.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Heuristic, funny that you should mention incense. I actually have used this to study the internal airflow inside my windowed case.







Honest to goodness, I have! I don't smoke, so I had to use alternative means!


----------



## thlnk3r

N2Gaming, that's correct. Orthos only stresses the processor, memory and chipset. How much Vcore are you running again? I get those type of temps on my XP-90C while running Orthos. I would assume your Zalman cooler is a better performer then mine so I am really surprised that you're hitting almost 60C. I'm almost wondering if the surface on your cooler is causing these high temperatures to develop. Do you remember if it was concave, convex, scratched or dented ect? It also could be the poor airflow in your case.

That is about right for your chipset temp. The stock cooler wasn't exactly designed for awesome cooling. When you start playing Bioshock I bet that temperature gets into the 50's. I've heard of many nForce4 chipsets exceeding 60C - 70C and being completely fine so perhaps it's nothing to worry about.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


don't forget scotch tape will eventually become brittle and break.










 I use the tape to keep the wires tucked out of the way. I had tape in my system for about 3 years no problem but I see what your talking about it becoming brittle. I don't use the clear tape, I use the white tape. Well it's more like a mix of clear/white.


----------



## Blitz6804

I dislike the idea of twist ties in a case: they are in fact metal wrapped in paper and likely to cause a short. (I have done it before.) Scotch tape and electrician's tape are my go-to management options.

I know Joe has a penchant for burning incense to view case flow. I am of the put-your-hand-near-something-and-see-if-you-feel-blowing school of thought. This is similar to the touch-it-lightly-and-see-if-it-burns school of thought.

N2Gaming, do you have a spare fan to act as a spot cooler? 49Âº C might be a little warm for a chipset. I have never owned an nF4 however, so I do not know. My nF3 topped out in the high 30s.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Heuristic, funny that you should mention incense. I actually have used this to study the internal airflow inside my windowed case.








Honest to goodness, I have! I don't smoke, so I had to use alternative means!










I give you a laugh and you insult me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


I give you a laugh and you insult me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!










Hueristic, no insults intended.









In fact, I have much respect for you.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I dislike the idea of twist ties in a case: they are in fact metal wrapped in paper and likely to cause a short. (I have done it before.) Scotch tape and electrician's tape are my go-to management options.

N2Gaming, do you have a spare fan to act as a spot cooler? 49Âº C might be a little warm for a chipset. I have never owned an nF4 however, so I do not know. My nF3 topped out in the high 30s.


Blitz, good point about the twist ties. I myself run zip ties (plastic). The smaller black ones are very useful.

That chipset temp (49C) is completely normal for N2Gaming. I was idling at 52C when I was running the stock cooler. I believe the nForce4 core can handle up to 80C. The problem with this motherboard in my opinion is the video card and chipset placement. I have extreme difficulties finding ways to cool my chipset. I have a Thermalright HR-05 (bolted down) that is practically right on top of my video card. I could use the second PCIe slot but that runs at 2x (single mode). Pain in the butt if you ask me...

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, that's correct. Orthos only stresses the processor, memory and chipset. How much Vcore are you running again? I get those type of temps on my XP-90C while running Orthos. I would assume your Zalman cooler is a better performer then mine so I am really surprised that you're hitting almost 60C. I'm almost wondering if the surface on your cooler is causing these high temperatures to develop. Do you remember if it was concave, convex, scratched or dented ect? It also could be the poor airflow in your case.

That is about right for your chipset temp. The stock cooler wasn't exactly designed for awesome cooling. When you start playing Bioshock I bet that temperature gets into the 50's. I've heard of many nForce4 chipsets exceeding 60C - 70C and being completely fine so perhaps it's nothing to worry about.

Good luck










 I do remember one of my zalmans got scratched but I don't know if it's this one. maybe it's time to check it out per hoth's request. ha ha 2 or 3 days later.


----------



## Blitz6804

Same problem existed on my GA-K8NSC-939. The AGP slot made the video card be directly in front of the northbridge cooler. If you have a dual slot card or a single slot card with a shroud (such as N2Gaming's 8600 GTS) it would block most of the airflow into the chipset. When you run SLI, it is 16x/2x and not 8x/8x? Odd.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Same problem existed on my GA-K8NSC-939. The AGP slot made the video card be directly in front of the northbridge cooler. If you have a dual slot card or a single slot card with a shroud (such as N2Gaming's 8600 GTS) it would block most of the airflow into the chipset. When you run SLI, it is 16x/2x and not 8x/8x? Odd.


Blitz, I too had the same problems on my K8NSC-939 board as well. Actually the board froze up several times because the chipset was exceeding 60C (29C room ambient). Very frustrating.

On my DFI SLI-DR board, SLI will run both slots in 8x/8x mode. Single mode is 16x/2x. If the second PCIe slot ran at 16x with a single video card then things would be a lot easier. I would be able to run my beautifully lapped SI-128









Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Oh, OH! I get it now. Your SI-128 blocks the top PCI-E slot forcing you to run a video card either in the 2x slot or use a different cooler. Got it.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Hueristic, no insults intended.









In fact, I have much respect for you.


















Haha thx man.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*









Haha thx man.


Heh, don't mention it.









For Blitz, though...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Oh, OH! I get it now. Your SI-128 blocks the top PCI-E slot forcing you to run a video card either in the 2x slot or use a different cooler. Got it.


... I'm not so sure. I thought it was rather straightforward.


















I kid, Blitz, I kid! You know how much pio loves you, baby!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Oh, OH! I get it now. Your SI-128 blocks the top PCI-E slot forcing you to run a video card either in the 2x slot or use a different cooler. Got it.


Blitz, that is correct. The smaller heatpipes that come out of the SI-128 are in the way of the video card. I could however run in PCIe 2x mode but the performance hit is very noticeable.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Smaller heat pipes... do you mean the ones on the far side of the fins? How far do they interfere? Would spinning the heatsink 90% improve any?

Question: I currently have my SI-128 mounted so the tips of the heat pipes face the front of the case. I have heard that cooling performance could be improved by spinning it 90% such that the pipes point toward the top of the case. Can Joe, Thlnk3r, or other similar heat sink owners confirm or deny this? Would the change be worth the effort to move the heatsink? While I am at it, should I replace my AS5 with something "better?"*

And Thlnk3r, can you get a dummy switch card to trick it into thinking there is a card in the top slot? Then it would at least run at 8x.

*"Betterness" is relative. Everyone has an opinion what is the "best" to have.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

A small correction vis-a-vis the SI-128/SI-128SE: Those "smaller heatpipes" opposite the main heatpipe array are actually not heatpipes. Those are just bracing arms, intended to prevent the heatsink from becoming misshapen.









As far as testing heatsink orientations on the SI-128: This is only possible if reorientation is done by 180 degrees; 90 degree reorientation is impossible with the bolt-down method, as far as I'm aware, because of the heatpipes' attachment points. On the base's four sides, only two sides (the ones perpendicular to the heatpipes) are open on which you could affix the retention mechanism. I don't think the S-Clip would allow a 90 degree reorientation either







, but I don't know this for sure at the moment.

(I tested whether the S-Clip was capable of allowing the Ultra 120/Ultra 120 Extreme to be mounted 90 degrees from typical, but that wasn't possible; I forget what I had found with the SI-128, however.)

Since I steadfastly refuse to use a non-bolt down retention mechanism (because I run a topless chip) on the SI-128 anyway, it's a moot point for me. But if you would try it and find out for us, Blitz, that would be great.

As far as TIMs go, AS5 may no longer be the coolest product around (some say Arctic Cooling MX-2 beats it, plus a couple of other contenders that don't come as easily to mind), but it's probably still the easiest to use for me. Especially with naked dies, AS5 is great because it's the easiest to spread.

Good luck.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah; I forgot about K8 asymmetrical mounting mechanisms. Darn. Mine is bolted not clipped for that matter. If I had a Socket T or Socket B motherboard (shoot me if that ever happened) I would be able to test it.


----------



## N2Gaming

OK I'm back, I did a few changes per every one's request. Back a month or so ago I was told to turn my CPU fan around for better cooling on the mossfets. I also moved one of the hard drives up to the Northern Hemisphere of the chassis to get the heat up and away from the mossfets. After rotating the CPU fan 180 degrees I realized it will now be pulling cool air over the CPU instead of hot air from the hdd's, mosfets and video cards. Additionally I did a little cable management and rerouting. Now all I have to do is run some test's to see how much if any it helped. Oh yeah the CPU heatsink was not scratched. The CPU voltage is at 1.32 I was and have been running the CPU at below stock spd's 2.2 GHz maybe that had something to do w/it ya think??? Nah I get some new pics once I get them uploaded.


----------



## Blitz6804

Oh, Joe... I did not mean the retention brackets. I meant the small (approx 15mm) tips of the heat pipes on the far side of the fins.

What sucks about the way the heat sink is: it kinda interferes with my RAM heat spreaders. I might take some pliers to the retention brackets and rebend them. As it stands, I had to wedge the RAM into the slots because of the heat sink. I would be incapable of doubling-down on my RAM without changing either the heat sink or the RAM without the proposed modification.

Can you give me an idea of any risks of doing it Joe? The alternative is just use a dremel to make notches in the RAM heatsinks.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Oh, Joe... I did not mean the retention brackets. I meant the small (approx 15mm) tips of the heat pipes on the far side of the fins.

Now I'm a little confused.







A picture, perhaps, to better illustrate the point? (My apologies.)

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
What sucks about the way the heat sink is: it kinda interferes with my RAM heat spreaders. I might take some pliers to the retention brackets and rebend them. As it stands, I had to wedge the RAM into the slots because of the heat sink. I would be incapable of doubling-down on my RAM without changing either the heat sink or the RAM without the proposed modification.

Can you give me an idea of any risks of doing it Joe? The alternative is just use a dremel to make notches in the RAM heatsinks.

I think reshaping the fins (i.e., notching the fins to the right shape) is the safer bet, if your goal is to create enough vertical clearance for your RAM. You might use a dremel to grind away the correct size and shape from the fin array so your RAM will fit. Alternatively, perhaps you can turn your SI-128 180 degrees and see if you get more clearance that way. You can always add a dedicated RAM cooler, if you want to actively cool your RAM (which is what I do with my setup, incidentally). Any fan(s) placed strategically will do. Also, you don't need a massive amount of fan power, either. All you want to do is to keep that air moving through the memory area.

Good luck.


----------



## N2Gaming

Ok temps did seem to come down a bit on cpu and mobo but northbridge is still sitting at 49 that's prolly from video card exhauste. heres some pics of my changes. hopes ya likes.









This picture shows the absence of one hard drive from the romovable hdd tray.









This pic shows the amount of clearance I gained from turning the cpu coller 180 degrees.









this pic shows the new location of my cd rom and moved hdd to the top









This is my attemp to showing what little mirror finish the cpu cooler has.









This is the ram I use.









This is the heart and soul my surviving Opty 180









This shows a little nic on the lower left corner of the cpu cooler. no prob man...


----------



## Blitz6804

(Yes, I realize this is an SE and we are talking about non-SE. Shoot me.)

The area of the heat pipe I am talking about is circled in red.

The arrows point to where my RAM heatsinks interfere with the support. My RAM DIMM has a really tall heat spreader on it. The heat spreader had to be wedged under the support. I think it is possible that there is not complete IHS contact because of the force of this.

The blue lines are how I propose to bend the supports. That is, bend them toward the heatsink more up top to give me more clearance. Unless I do this, 4-DIMMs will be impossible with this heatsink.

If I remember right, I mounted this way because the other way the heatpipes physically blocked a DIMM socket. As it is, I have my RAM in the secondary channel because of the highlighted problem made the first channel impossible to access.

Maybe people can recommend a better blow-down cooler? Preferably, one I will not need to lap like I had to with this one.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

N2G, looks better.









You might be right about the chipset cooler, actually, about it getting fed by nothing but hot GPU exhaust. Or it could be starved of air altogether, given that things are packed so tightly inside that case and the proximity of the GPU cooler's fan. The GPU might be "stealing" air from the chipset cooler.









Blitz, if it's possible to bend just those bracing arms (the thin "pipes" beneath the heatpipes themselves) the way you're intending, then go for it. Or you can remove them, but at the risk of having the fin array (and the heatpipes themselves) bending down towards the motherboard over time. Bending the heatpipes, of course, would damage the cooler and render it useless.









As for recommendations for alternative blow-down coolers, you might try the Enzotech Ultra-X; by reputation it's very good (I wish I could test one of these, actually). Another one that I've found to be very good is the original Thermaltake Big Typhoon. It's more than adequate for a hot-running dual-core.

Or you could take my personal recommendation: Not bother populating all four DIMM slots at all.







Of course, we are diametrically opposed on this particular point, being the RAM hog user that you are.


----------



## Blitz6804

I saw the Ultra-X. The biggest complaint I had with it that it was clip-down and not bolt-down. I wonder how a Xigmatek HDT-D1264 works and if it would fit the RAM under it.

EDIT: I see that the HDT-D1264 is also clip down. Anyone know about the Cooler Master GeminII S? It is the baby brother of the GeminII that I think TestECull has. Looking at the mounting bracket, it looks like it can be installed in either orientation.


----------



## pez

Hmmm I'm home, time to test out that cardboard template







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


N2G, looks better.









You might be right about the chipset cooler, actually, about it getting fed by nothing but hot GPU exhaust. Or it could be starved of air altogether, given that things are packed so tightly inside that case and the proximity of the GPU cooler's fan. The GPU might be "stealing" air from the chipset cooler.










 thanks, Well after 45+ min of testing here is where my temps are sitting. funny thing is the gpu temps are no longer the same like they were before. Hmm. I wonder what I did to make that happen???


----------



## N2Gaming

I ran a modest oc of 2.7GHz and fail at less then 3 min but my temps are still high. Any one know about this, if it's ok to run it like this or should I default back to stock?


----------



## Blitz6804

Your CPU temps look fine to me. Opteron 180 Denmarks are good to 65Âº C. You are going to need to give it some voltage though, at present, you are undervolting it by 40mV.


----------



## BlackOmega

I stopped using orthos. Itll fail an OC even that same OC will do just fine with SnM. And SnM will tell you exactly where it failed, not this bs FATAL ERROR: ROUNDING WAS0.5, expecting 0.4

When I run SnM that last error I got was an L1 cache error. Then you can research at least why it would be failing. L1 cache errors are caused by heat with high voltage leading to migration.

Anyway, anyone know where I can find out stepping info on Athalons? Just picked up my "test" subject has a stepping NBBWE, we'll see what she can do.


----------



## majakone

N2Gamming , Just my 2 cents here but , the clearence of your video card over your north bridge fan coupled with its exhaust is whats causing your high temps there the north bridge fan has no room to draw air or expel it for that matter







what I did with mine before i got this expert board {north bridge is above the highest pci slot , so no issue} was to apply some mx2 it helped alittle you need to have unrestricted airflow for the little guy to do his job


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *majakone* 
N2Gamming , Just my 2 cents here but , the clearence of your video card over your north bridge fan coupled with its exhaust is whats causing your high temps there the north bridge fan has no room to draw air or expel it for that matter







what I did with mine before i got this expert board {north bridge is above the highest pci slot , so no issue} was to apply some mx2 it helped alittle you need to have unrestricted airflow for the little guy to do his job









I should be using arctic mx-2 for all my TIM needs, from the looks of the test results I just studied it outpurforms AS-5 it's non conductive and has a minimum applied lifespan of 8 years







thanks for that Tip.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I stopped using orthos. Itll fail an OC even that same OC will do just fine with SnM. And SnM will tell you exactly where it failed, not this bs FATAL ERROR: ROUNDING WAS0.5, expecting 0.4

When I run SnM that last error I got was an L1 cache error. Then you can research at least why it would be failing. L1 cache errors are caused by heat with high voltage leading to migration.

Anyway, anyone know where I can find out stepping info on Athalons? Just picked up my "test" subject has a stepping NBBWE, we'll see what she can do.









thanks I'll have to try it.

I flipped my front 80 mm fan around and turned it into an exhaust fan and the gpu and chipset temp came down a bit so I'm working on a side cover with a sliding fan so I can try to find the opimal position for the fan. here is the beggings of my work.









I'll post some more pictures of the fan and sliding plate and post results of it's cooling porperties.


----------



## thlnk3r

N2Gaming, the main problem is airflow. I mean the exhaust options are very limited. You have a 70mm fan pushing air which is not going to do anything. The 80mm fan in the front is probably not doing anything either. I hate to say this but you'll either need to mod the case or purchase an entire new case that possibly allows for front and back 120mm fans.

Good luck









Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


A small correction vis-a-vis the SI-128/SI-128SE: Those "smaller heatpipes" opposite the main heatpipe array are actually not heatpipes. Those are just bracing arms, intended to prevent the heatsink from becoming misshapen.










Joe, so are you saying I can cut those bracing arms off? Wow I really thought that was part of the cooling.

Thanks


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, the main problem is airflow. I mean the exhaust options are very limited. You have a 70mm fan pushing air which is not going to do anything. The 80mm fan in the front is probably not doing anything either. I hate to say this but you'll either need to mod the case or purchase an entire new case that possibly allows for front and back 120mm fans.

Good luck










Well lets see what I can do with this little option before I knock it to da tirt


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Joe, so are you saying I can cut those bracing arms off? Wow I really thought that was part of the cooling.

Thanks


You can remove those bracing arms if you choose, thlnk3r.

However, since the SI-128 came from me, I won't honor any warranty claims from you if the heatpipes bend and sag and the fin array starts to droop down towards the motherboard.









In all seriousness, though, I don't believe a regular 120mm x 25mm fan is heavy enough to actually bend the heatpipes. Of course, if this remains a concern, there are other ways to compensate for the missing braces if these are removed. One way is to add your own braces underneath the fin array itself; stick a couple of braces between the top of the heatsink base and the bottom of the fins, and voila! You have your own support bracing arms.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah thlnk3r, only bracing arms. The reason they are there is so that the heatpipes do not get deformed with time. I question their effectiveness. I find many heatsinks that are heavier than the SI-128, and Thermalright is the only one to bother with braces.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Yeah thlnk3r, only bracing arms. The reason they are there is so that the heatpipes do not get deformed with time. I question their effectiveness. I find many heatsinks that are heavier than the SI-128, and Thermalright is the only one to bother with braces.


Which heatsinks are you referring to?

Silverstone has (or had, since it's hard to find this product these days) a down-blowing heatsink called the NT-06. The design is similar to the SI-128. It doesn't have anything like a support brace system like Thermalright has on the SI-128/SI-128SE. I've seen pictures of the NT-06 with its heatpipes and fin arrays bent, like the fin array is bowing down towards the heatsink base.









I won't presume to know more than the qualified design engineers at Thermalright when it comes to the materials strength of their heatpipes and fin arrays on their products is all I'm saying.


----------



## thlnk3r

Joe & Blitz, thanks for the responses. I'll get my chainsaw out and cut them off. I wonder now if the cooler will fit









We shall find out...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Joe & Blitz, thanks for the responses. I'll get my chainsaw out and cut them off. I wonder now if the cooler will fit









We shall find out...


thlnk3r, before busting out your chainsaw (is it overclocked?







), see if you can simply just pull these bracing arms off of the fin array and heatsink base. I think these just slide in and out.

Good luck, buddy!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


thlnk3r, before busting out your chainsaw (is it overclocked?







), see if you can simply just pull these bracing arms off of the fin array and heatsink base. I think these just slide in and out.

Good luck, buddy!










Joe, actually that is a good idea. If it doesn't work, I'll just glue them back on and return the heatsink. I hope the warranty still holds up









Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Ok so here is the plan. I will be able to move the exhause fan with a tunnel from the rear of the chassis to the front of the chassis as well as up or down. Trying to find the sweet spot for max cooling effect. As well as have a exhaust fan in the front of the chassis. I'm also thinging about another 80 mm on the side for more air flow. Oh yeah BTW I found a couple of little fans that I can mount over the mossfets. I pulled them from some older HDD hot swop's that were useless.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Joe, actually that is a good idea. If it doesn't work, I'll just glue them back on and return the heatsink. I hope the warranty still holds up









Good luck


I may honor the warranty if you put away the shotgun.


----------



## Blitz6804

I think you more likely to honor it if he has the shotgun pointed at you.

Just my 2Â¢.

Let me know how easy it is to pull out the things thlnk3r; I might do that rather than bending them.


----------



## thlnk3r

N2Gaming, pretty awesome ghetto mod









Will you be able to provide cooling results tonight? I was also going to mention this earlier. You shouldn't really be getting high temps at 1.3volts. I can almost guarantee it's your airflow or a "dead spot" that is causing this issue.

Good luck

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I may honor the warranty if you put away the shotgun.




























Joe, you better honor that warranty or else...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I think you more likely to honor it if he has the shotgun pointed at you.

Just my 2Â¢.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Joe, you better honor that warranty or else...


Oh, sure. Gang up on me.

I see how you guys play.










N2G, hope the experiments lead to something good! I love to see testing like this!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Whoa whoa whoa...Joe offers a warranty?

Why was I not informed of this







. I think Joe should offer a full lifetime warranty just like eVGA and XFX do







. Sounds good to me. I know I already have enough of his old dusty parts myself as well....soon to be more.


----------



## N2Gaming

I am glad to be able to say I have lowered the idle temps with out even installing the mossfet fans yet. I will do othos next.























What was that think3r wait what I need 120's I listened to joe about cfm's and proper airflow and came up with this ghetto mod. I really like the case because it looks like a plain jain but it's a sleeper inside


----------



## Blitz6804

Nice temp drop N2Gaming. I do have a request though: could you please remove the whitespace from further images? It breaks my horizontal scroll, and I am on what Joe would qualify a "huge resolution."


----------



## N2Gaming

sorry for that Blitz. If I new how to reduce the image size from my photo storage over at imageups.com I would more than happily please us all. I know run a low res as well on my 19" lcd.

Here is 4 mins orthose slightly underclocked. I'll put it back up to 3.7GHz and see how much of a diff in temps I get.


----------



## majakone

nice drop


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *majakone* 
nice drop









Thanks,

Now all I have to do is add some of that other arctic stuff and drop em even more.









here is what it get @ 2.645MHz

Idle










and under load


----------



## Blitz6804

The problem here is that the background is 900px wider than the image. If you are using MSPaint, just adjust the image size to 1024x768. It will cut off the dead space on the right.


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks Blitz, now if you would please explain in detail how to do that in ms paint, I will be more than happy to do so. I think the imageups websight even does it with my photos from my camera.


----------



## Blitz6804

Ctrl+E, then type in 1024 into the width box from the current 1924. Save.


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks, here is 2.760GHz Looks like I'm gonna have to use that fan on the mossfets pretty soon.


----------



## N2Gaming

Sorry for the double down. This is as far as I have been able to get stable at 2760Mhz with the voltage less then 1.4cv


----------



## Hueristic

BTW if you wanna go silly on that thing, replace the cardboard with saran wrap when you have the best temps and then watch the flow with smoke.


----------



## BlackOmega

Soo..... no one has any info about Athalon stepping??? Eh?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


BTW if you wanna go silly on that thing, replace the cardboard with saran wrap when you have the best temps and then watch the flow with smoke.


LOL+rep for making me laugh


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Soo..... no one has any info about Athalon stepping??? Eh?


http://www.amdgeeks.net/overclocks


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


LOL+rep for making me laugh










easiest rep I eva got!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


http://www.amdgeeks.net/overclocks


 Thank you. Looks like the highest they got 1 to was 3.3







Now lets see what my $30 CPU will do


----------



## N2Gaming

I just wanted to say thanks to all the peep's who help'd me get to this point with the OC in this rig. Ya know who ya are. I appriciate it very much.

Idle with fans over mossfets









10 min orthos w/fans over mossfets.









looks good runs good now I'll try a game with it overclocked and see how she holds up.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I just wanted to say thanks to all the peep's who help'd me get to this point with the OC in this rig. Ya know who ya are.

looks good runs good now I'll try a game with it overclocked and see how she holds up.









Don't think I helped much but still holding my breath with fingers crossed!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Don't think I helped much but still holding my breath with fingers crossed!

















 you gave me motivation on many occasions. I was wondering. I just checked my mail box and yipy I got my gskill and ballistix ram modules to start testing.

Does any one know if it could hurt the ram if I used them while they are cold from being out side in my mailbox all day???


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


you gave me motivation on many occasions. I was wondering. I just checked my mail box and yipy I got my gskill and ballistix ram modules to start testing.

Does any one know if it could hurt the ram if I used them while they are cold from being out side in my mailbox all day???


Not unless they got moist/wet from being out there, I'd say there's no danger.







If they were packaged well, then no worries.









Have fun testing, N2G!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Not unless they got moist/wet from being out there, I'd say there's no danger.







If they were packaged well, then no worries.









Have fun testing, N2G!










Thank you, they were in the original packaging plus in the bubble rap envelopes locked up tight inside my mail box. I don't think they are moiste. maybe I'll take a hair dryer to them from a distance as not to heat em up but to make sure they are dry and not damp from coming inside from the cold. condensation dew etc works the same way on metals like when you take a cold drink







"like I did earlier to celebrate getting those temps down" out of the fridge and moisture builds up on the out side of the drink...

Edit: and like I'm going to do again becuase I just got some new ram for testing. I'll celbrate before I find out they are bad









Edit #2: blitz asked me why I was building a clear cmos switch on the BNBB project. well it just came in handy. I'm playing with new ram and it has different timings and I don't think the board likes the Gskill as much as the ocz. but in any case I'm loving that little clear cmos switch already...


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Edit: and like I'm going to do again becuase I just got some new ram for testing. I'll celbrate before I find out they are bad





















































:drun ken:


----------



## N2Gaming

times for another mesa thinks








I'd pass em out but internet has not got to that point yet.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


What was that think3r wait what I need 120's I listened to joe about cfm's and proper airflow and came up with this ghetto mod. I really like the case because it looks like a plain jain but it's a sleeper inside










N2Gaming, a single 120 x 38mm fan would offer a significant amount of air pressure over a single 80mm fan. Your temps dropped because you improved your airflow. I believe this was suggested several times in previous posts. If you had a case that offered proper fan placement either it be 80mm or 120mm then you might have a easier time. Don't forget also you're running 1.4volts through that processor so that is also contributing to the higher load temps. All Opteron 1xx series processors also have a 110 TDP.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, a single 120 x 38mm fan would offer a significant amount of air pressure over a single 80mm fan. Your temps dropped because you improved your airflow. I believe this was suggested several times in previous posts. If you had a case that offered proper fan placement either it be 80mm or 120mm then you might have a easier time. Don't forget also you're running 1.4volts through that processor so that is also contributing to the higher load temps. All Opteron 1xx series processors also have a 110 TDP.

Good luck










I was just teasing you man. I know a bigger chassis with more room for air circluation would be better but I'm a dye hard man. I gotta do things the hard way some times. It turns out the best placement of the side mounted 80mm fan is as an intake centered directly over the chipset fan. Did you notice how much the chipset fan slowed down once it was getting cooler air to it. It went from 7000 to less then 4000


----------



## OCGhost

Since I'm building a new Q9550 rig, I decided to see how far I could push my 939 Venice 3200+ being that I don't have to worry about being stuck without a computer if I fried it.

I usually run my 3200+ @ 2.48GHz 24/7 with stock voltage (1.375v) and cooling, idle temp = ~41c, load temp =~51. 12 hours + Prime 95

It took 1.5v to get it to 2.65GHz. Idle = 43c, load 53c. It ran prime 95 stable for 10 min, that was all I tried.

I was able to get it to 2.7GHz (Validation) with 1.575v, load windows run everything but fail prime 95. Temps were 43 & 55. This was with the HT link @ 1080

I wasn't able to go to the windows loading screen with anything higher, Even after I pushed it to 1.625v which is my motherboards max.



I also lowered the multi to 9 and was able to get 9x300 = 2.7GHz, but I couldn't go any higher being that my board doesn't let me input anything higher than 300. During this run my HT link was 1200 (validation), It took 1.625v to get there.










Overall I have to say that this biostar 939 motherboard and my 3200 have given me a lot of value and fun for the last 3 years and I'm gonna miss messing around with it them. (I'm actually thinking of keeping it to start folding / try linux.)

(yeah I know the Q9550 is treason, I just couldn't resist a NIB E0 Q9550 for $183 shipped after ebay coupon/cashback. My original plan was to see what Phenom II could do. After reading about Gigabyte's P45-UD3P I knew I needed that board.) This is gonna be my first multi-core rig, and finally I'm gonna have a sm4.1 4870, after getting stuck without sm3.0 on my x800.


----------



## BlackOmega

Ok so I found another board that I think would actually be perfect for folding. DFI Lanparty UT NF4-ULTRA-D/G I did a goole search on it but have had no luck finding any info. Any ideas? Anyway heres a pic.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OCGhost*


I'm actually thinking of keeping it to start folding


----------



## pez

I keep telling myself I'm going to fold, but I'm getting lazy and don't want to search for it in the forum







.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


I keep telling myself I'm going to fold, but I'm getting lazy and don't want to search for it in the forum







.


Here you go u lazy Bastage!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Ok so I found another board that I think would actually be perfect for folding. DFI Lanparty UT NF4-ULTRA-D/G I did a goole search on it but have had no luck finding any info. Any ideas? Anyway heres a pic.


This is nothing more than your run-of-the-mill LANParty UT nF4 Ultra-D, likely a later revision which does not permit the SLI-mod. The "/G" tag denotes the presence of two PCI-E "G"raphics slots on the board; you can use both simultaneously, if I'm not mistaken, but not in SLI. I'm fairly sure that the SLI bridge is not included in the packaging (the first series of Ultra-Ds did have the SLI bridge; this is one clue that the board can be modded to do SLI, in fact).

(As an aside, it's odd for DFI to add the "/G" designation to the motherboard's model name, since the Ultra-D -- /G and non-/G -- has always had two PCI-E graphics slots on it.









Who knows that goes on in the minds of the marketing people, eh?)


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Here you go u lazy Bastage!









haha thanks, I was hoping someone would do that







. Ugh, I hate this class. I only have something to do 2 days out of the week, the rest of the 4.5 hours of my week in this class are spent here. ALL 4.5. I love this site, but that is too much.


----------



## eviloverclocker

Nice ghetto rig N2Gaming. Has it helped your cooling? I'm gonna try Ocing my rig again. Thanks guys and gals for the help earlier in the thread. Puter running solid. Had to repair my windows install.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eviloverclocker* 
Nice ghetto rig N2Gaming. Has it helped your cooling? I'm gonna try Ocing my rig again. Thanks guys and gals for the help earlier in the thread. Puter running solid. Had to repair my windows install.

Thanks, in fact it helped significantly.

So I received my crucial DDR500 1x1gig sticks last night and was imediately frustrated. I could not get them to work for nothing. I even called crucial tech-supt and asked for the default timings and voltage and I was given info that was of no use to me. defaults are 3-4-4-8-2T 2.8V and I was told leave everyting else to auto. So after trying default and my pc not detecting the ram. I cleared cmos again for the 100th time "no not really but when I'm frustrated it could be only 10 times and the frustration multiplies that by 10 so if feels like a 100 times" So what did I do to get them to work you might wonder. well I had to make sure they were in the orange slot's closest to the cpu "the yellow slots are no good for this ram" and then clear cmos, go into bios and disable lanparty screen so I can see what timings the machine was defaulting to. Once I had the timings "I set it and forget it" after all why mess with it if it's working right! Oh you may want to know the timings. OK they are 3-3-3-8 1T 2.8V every thing else is left on auto and what ever else the clear cmos configured them to. So far I am able to overclock the pc with the ram a @ DDR500 spd's this helped improve my ram bandwidth. I'll get you some pics later.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
OK they are 3-3-3-8 1T


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 























That's exactely how I felt when I finally got them to start working.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


well I had to make sure they were in the orange slot's closest to the cpu "the yellow slots are no good for this ram"


N2Gaming, good job









It seems like the Orange slots are always useful for troubleshooting. I believe the manual talks about the Orange and Yellow slots. I also had no luck running my memor yin the yellow slots as well.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, good job









It seems like the Orange slots are always useful for troubleshooting. I believe the manual talks about the Orange and Yellow slots. I also had no luck running my memor yin the yellow slots as well.

Good luck


Thanks, I was running my pc at 2750MHz and ram at DDR500 but it was unstable, so I turned it down to 2500MHz DDR500 and so far she's running pretty good passes orthos so far 27 min in and counting.

Edit: I never had any problems with my OCZ Plats in either the yellow or orange slots and up until now I had not encountered a situation that required the use of the orange slots.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thanks, I was running my pc at 2750MHz and ram at DDR500 but it was unstable, so I turned it down to 2500MHz DDR500 and so far she's running pretty good passes orthos so far 27 min in and counting.

Edit: I never had any problems with my OCZ Plats in either the yellow or orange slots and up until now I had not encountered a situation that required the use of the orange slots.


N2Gaming, can you include CPU-Z screenshots of your overclock at 2500Mhz? Please include each tab.

In regards to the DIMM slots...well this is what makes the DFI so picky when it comes to different types of memory/ic's. I believe Joe's CFX3200 is even worse.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

fsb 250 multi 10 ddr200 1:1 I'll try it othos is kind of a problem when trying to do to many task's while it's running. passes 40 min so far BTW as soon as I get the pics uploaded to imageups.com I pasted the img tag's.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


In regards to the DIMM slots...well this is what makes the DFI so picky when it comes to different types of memory/ic's. I believe Joe's CFX3200 is even worse.

Good luck










The CFX3200-DR is a monstrously picky motherboard, particularly in RAM setup. I had a devil of a time setting it up just for it to be stable at stock. No matter which BIOS version I flashed to (I must have tried three or four different versions), it simply demanded that the user set up the RAM manually; it hates "Auto" settings. I've never ever played with a motherboard this infuriating.









Please welcome OCGhost, our newest "S939 Nostalgic" member.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


fsb 250 multi 10 ddr200 1:1 I'll try it othos is kind of a problem when trying to do to many task's while it's running. passes 40 min so far BTW as soon as I get the pics uploaded to imageups.com I pasted the img tag's.


N2Gaming, what is your HT multiplier set at? How much Vcore are you currently running?

Welcome OCGhost


----------



## N2Gaming

think3r, HTT is at 1000 Cvolt is at 1.31 and stable

OCGhost, welcome aboard


----------



## Blitz6804

Quick correction Joe, OCGhost is not a new member. He already on the roster as an active member. Before getting his Intel, he wanted his AMD to do one last hurrah. Given that he may be using it for folding yet, I think a conversion to nostalgic may be premature.

OCGhost, I will update the speed of your Venice on the off-site when I get home.

EDIT: N2Gaming: your Bank Cycle Time (tRC) could be too tight. Given your RAS# Precharge (tRP) and Cycle Time (tRAS), your tRC should be around 11. Your Row Refresh Cycle Time (tRFC) {not shown in CPU-Z} should be either 13, 14, 15, or 16 depending on what gives the best stability/bandwidth settings. To me, your DRAM Idle Timer seems high, but this might be a side effect of some settings in the background of the DFI. A DFI Tech Head should be able to help to reduce this.

EDIT#2: You said you ran it at 250x11 with 1:1 and it was unstable. Was the voltage still set at 1.310 V or did you increase it to the stock 1.350 V?


----------



## thlnk3r

N2Gaming, thank you for including some screenshots of your overclock. If you start to run into any walls you could also try changing the command rate from 1T to 2T. That may actually help stability.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, thank you for including some screenshots of your overclock. If you start to run into any walls you could also try changing the command rate from 1T to 2T. That may actually help stability.

Good luck


Any time and your very welcome.









Funny thing you should mention the 1T & 2T command timing. my ebay sli dr board will not run any ram at a 1T command rate. well I can get it to boot into windows w/1T but the second I run everest cache and memory benchmark the system crashes and restarts it self. is this a common problem w these boards or does this board have some sort of defect??? Any one have any idea's as to a componant fix???









So far that is the only thing that I have been able to find wrong with the board other then it takes a little longer to boot then my other sli dr board. I wonder if the cpu has something to do with the speed of which it detects the ram and runs post to finally booting into windows. I don't remember the board with the opty 180 taking this long when I had the 3500+ in it.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Quick correction Joe, OCGhost is not a new member. He already on the roster as an active member. Before getting his Intel, he wanted his AMD to do one last hurrah. Given that he may be using it for folding yet, I think a conversion to nostalgic may be premature.

OCGhost, I will update the speed of your Venice on the off-site when I get home.


Many thanks, Blitz.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Funny thing you should mention the 1T & 2T command timing. my ebay sli dr board will not run any ram at a 1T command rate. well I can get it to boot into windows w/1T but the second I run everest cache and memory benchmark the system crashes and restarts it self. is this a common problem w these boards or does this board have some sort of defect??? Any one have any idea's as to a componant fix???









So far that is the only thing that I have been able to find wrong with the board other then it takes a little longer to boot then my other sli dr board. I wonder if the cpu has something to do with the speed of which it detects the ram and runs post to finally booting into windows. I don't remember the board with the opty 180 taking this long when I had the 3500+ in it.










N2Gaming, I don't necessarily think it's a common problem. I believe it's more of your memory being capable of running at those speeds. With these DFI boards being so picky, it's extremely hard sometimes.

Your 3500+ was a single core so there is a bit of a difference. Have you installed the dual core optimizer? Have you configured your boot.ini to load with "two cores"? Go to Start -> Run and type, "msconfig". Go to the boot.ini tab -> Advanced Options. Where it says, "/NUMPROC=" change it to 2. It may not help but it's worth a shot.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

thanks I'll have to reboot for the cpu=2 to take affect.

I'm not actually worried about the opty 180 pc running the crucial ballistix ddr500. I'm more concerned with the sli dr board I got on ebay for $18.00. You see I'm trying to use the same ram module that I removed from the opty 180 pc and I know for a fact that is is very capable of running 1T at stock settings. for some reason the ebay board will not run 1T for any thing. I know it has something to do with the board wether or not it's related to a board revision I don't know but I do know the ram is very capable of running 1T. I have tried the bios it came with when I got it the board and I think it was 406 I have also tried 623 and I'm on 329 right now. orthose runs fine at stock spd's but just can't get T I guess it's not a big thing not being able to run 1T but I just think there is something wrong with the board some how...


----------



## thlnk3r

N2Gaming, have you tried testing 1T with one stick of memory?

Good luck


----------



## Jack Pepsi

I have two 1GB sticks of Crucial Ballistix and I'm unable to run them at 1T without running into issues in both my MSI K8N and my ASUS A8V, in both single and dual configurations.










If it's any worth, I understand your pain... so to speak.


----------



## eviloverclocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *General_Chris*


Heres my AMD Athlon










Nice OC Welcome to overclock.net


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


This is nothing more than your run-of-the-mill LANParty UT nF4 Ultra-D, likely a later revision which does not permit the SLI-mod. The "/G" tag denotes the presence of two PCI-E "G"raphics slots on the board; you can use both simultaneously, if I'm not mistaken, but not in SLI. I'm fairly sure that the SLI bridge is not included in the packaging (the first series of Ultra-Ds did have the SLI bridge; this is one clue that the board can be modded to do SLI, in fact).

(As an aside, it's odd for DFI to add the "/G" designation to the motherboard's model name, since the Ultra-D -- /G and non-/G -- has always had two PCI-E graphics slots on it.









Who knows that goes on in the minds of the marketing people, eh?)


 Awesome, thanks Joe







This sounds like the perfect folding board! I looked in to that SLI mod, it appears to be very easy to do, and supposedly all of the NF4 chips have the ability to run SATAII and SLI (if you have 2 slots). Granted it would only run @ 8x, but whatever. After i do the initial build and check the board out make sure its all up to snuff, I might mod it. But I wont be able to tell until I pop that heatsink off.

I too thought it was kind of odd that there wasnt much documentation about the board on the net.







Maybe its a REALLY late revision after the 939's hayday and it just fell by the wayside. Who knows?

Did DFI ever manufacture boards for other companies, kind of like Asus for Gateway or was it HP?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Did DFI ever manufacture boards for other companies, kind of like Asus for Gateway or was it HP?


BlackOmega, I've worked with a lot of HP dekstops and majority of the boards come from Asus. All of them are proprietary though meaning they are specifically designed for that model computer. HP also manufactures their own boards as well. Gateway uses a 3rd party vendor as well but I am not sure who actually makes the PCB. I've also seen quite a few Emachines come with MSI boards. I guess it varies.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jack Pepsi*


I have two 1GB sticks of Crucial Ballistix and I'm unable to run them at 1T without running into issues in both my MSI K8N and my ASUS A8V, in both single and dual configurations.










If it's any worth, I understand your pain... so to speak.










 JP, the ballistix ddr500 is working fine 1T with both sticks of 1x1024

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, have you tried testing 1T with one stick of memory?

Good luck


 think3r, as a matter of fact I have not. I will be sure to try that one next. I just noticed the board will not detect all for sticks when I have them installed it's only showing 2 gig from my computer properties screen. That's using 2gig of Gskill and 2 gig of OCZ. hmm Just so you know the 1T problem occors with either the gskill or the ocz or both in at the same time. one of those weird things I guess.


----------



## Blitz6804

N2Gaming: I edited post 9787 for you, I think you may have missed it.


----------



## TestECull

Ookk..guys...Here's a story for ya'll.

Ok, so m 4200+ X2 arrived today. Yay. I'm posting this from it.

I got it out of the package, and in cleaning the old AS5 off, I bent 4 or 5 pins. I got most of them straight, but I broke one off. Yes, broke clean off. Socket 938. I tried it anyways, but it didn't post. I didn't think it would, so I grabbed my old DFI board, powerd PC off and went in search for a donor pin. I found one, from a BIOS chip from a DVD player, that would fit in and get electrical contact. Yay.

I broke two of them off, lost them. Third one I managed to get into the corresponding pinhole in the socket. I stuck the proc in, carefully, and lowered the lever before it was fully seated, but in enough to get good contact.

After reassembling, I put it in it's spot and hit the button. No dice. Checked, forgot ATX and CPU power. D'oh! Plugged them in, tried again. Nothing. Checked, ATX wasn't fully seated. Fixed that, hit the button and POST. YAYAY!

Booted right into Windows, and temps are good. 24C/26C and 29C average. Everest and Windows know there's a dual, and know that it is, indeed, a 4200+ X2.

And that is how I became God, folks.

Side effect? I won't be able to rape my Venice like I originally planned. My donor pin is contacting simply from friction in the socket, and I doubt I'd be able to get it to touch again if I had to try. That dual is not coming out untill it is 100% fubar.

Anyone willing to push it for me? Pay shipping, I'll send it to you, and await the dumps. Otherwise, I'll have to keep it as a spare...it does work fine at stock. Might other try to do an x-mas gaming build for a 12-year-old cousin too, if anyone's got a mobo, PSU, GPU and ram to donate.


----------



## Blitz6804

Glad to hear the repair worked TestECull. I too broke a pin off once. I replaced it with a piece of scrap wire from Home Depot. Did not matter since the motherboard was FUBAR anyway.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Glad to hear the repair worked TestECull. I too broke a pin off once. I replaced it with a piece of scrap wire from Home Depot. Did not matter since the motherboard was FUBAR anyway.

I think I would cry if I broke a pin off a cpu well an expensive one any way. I just went back to your edited post and the voltage was at 1.39 and I was still unstable so I lowered it to 2.5 GHZ with the new voltage.


----------



## Blitz6804

Hm... strange. Did you try making the aforementioned changes to tRC/tRFC? Has that CPU in the past been stable at 2750 on a different RAM divider?

*Hopes Kamakazi will join club.*


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Hm... strange. Did you try making the aforementioned changes to tRC/tRFC? Has that CPU in the past been stable at 2750 on a different RAM divider?

not really just higher voltage and I don't really want to push it that much.


----------



## TestECull

O, hey, someone update me in the roster.







I has a dual core now...


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
O, hey, someone update me in the roster.







I has a dual core now...

where is the cpuz validation for that dumed core


----------



## TestECull

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
where is the cpuz validation for that dumed core


Huh?


----------



## Blitz6804

TestECull, as N2Gaming so rudely put it, we need a CPU-Z validation.

N2Gaming, put it back to 250x11, loosen the tRC to 11 and the tRFC to 14. Increase the voltage to 1.350 V. Let us know if that works. If not, please tell us exactly why it does not work. (Crashes, Orthos unstable, whatever.)


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
TestECull, as N2Gaming so rudely put it, we need a CPU-Z validation.

N2Gaming, put it back to 250x11, loosen the tRC to 11 and the tRFC to 16. Increase the voltage to 1.350 V. Let us know if that works. If not, please tell us exactly why it does not work. (Crashes, Orthos unstable, whatever.)

Sorry Testecull did not intend to come off rude. was just kiddin around with ya. I don't remember if 250 x 11 gave me ddr 500 but I'll try it.

Think3r, 1 stick of ram in the ebay machine did produce 1T stability but also knocked off like half the spd of the ram.


----------



## TestECull

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=455848

And no, no offense taken.


----------



## Blitz6804

One stick having half the bandwidth of two makes perfect sense: the Dual-Channel/Single-Channel debate. 250x11 will definitely give DDR500 if you are running 1:1. (As will 250x12. That would be sweet; 3.0 GHz with DDR 500.)

I am updating your CPUs now TestECull and OCGhost.


----------



## N2Gaming

well here is the results. I loosened up the primary timings as well to 3-4-4-8 1T this is what happens.


----------



## pez

Hey guys new cpu-z version is out and provides 2-3 seconds loading times instead of 10 (at least for me).


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Think3r, 1 stick of ram in the ebay machine did produce 1T stability but also knocked off like half the spd of the ram.


N2Gaming, so the motherboard is capable of running 1T with a single stick of memory. For testing purposes, try only running 2T with your set of memory and let us know how that goes.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

so does that put it at ver:1.4 now?


----------



## Blitz6804

1.49 actually. Pez is right, it does open MUCH faster. Coupled with this is a URL change. All validations are now found at:

http://valid.canardpc.com/.

I have just updated the off-site roster to reflect the new CPUs and this change.

N2Gaming: Loosening your main timings may not help if your tRC/tRFC (traditional 'subtimings') are too tight. Loosen them to 11/15 respectively (or 12/16 if you are at 3-4-4-8) and see if that helps.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Awesome, thanks Joe







This sounds like the perfect folding board! I looked in to that SLI mod, it appears to be very easy to do, and supposedly all of the NF4 chips have the ability to run SATAII and SLI (if you have 2 slots). Granted it would only run @ 8x, but whatever. After i do the initial build and check the board out make sure its all up to snuff, I might mod it. But I wont be able to tell until I pop that heatsink off.

I too thought it was kind of odd that there wasnt much documentation about the board on the net.







Maybe its a REALLY late revision after the 939's hayday and it just fell by the wayside. Who knows?

Did DFI ever manufacture boards for other companies, kind of like Asus for Gateway or was it HP?


BlackOmega, I actually would advise against trying the SLI mod on these Ultra-Ds. For one thing, only on the earlier revisions was this trick actually effective. For another, per Anandtech's contemporary article (circa 2005), nVidia was quite annoyed with DFI allowing the SLI mod to be possible, so accordingly they were supposed to write their drivers to completely nullify the possibility of a hacked SLI to ever work.

I've never tried the SLI mod, so I can't say definitively whether or not it would still work with today's drivers, so please take my comments here with a grain of salt. I do know for a fact (due to reading a bit about it from other DFI users on various forums) that only the early revisions of the Ultra-D was modifiable for SLI.

Last thing: According to various sources (Anandtech, among them), before become an enthusiast parts manufacturer, DFI was actually an OEM motherboard designer and manufacturer (much like Foxconn and Asus are, as thlnk3r also mentioned). Only fairly recently (let's say since 2003 or 2004) did DFI begin to establish itself as an enthusiast parts provider. S939 saw them at their greatest, you could argue. Many say that, these days, DFI have lost a little of their shine because, although their motherboards are still great performers, they require a PhD in electronics to make them work properly and at their best; moreover, their performance lead no longer exists, as brands like Asus and others have matched them, or even surpassed them entirely. The big insult, though, is that other boards aren't as difficult to work with as DFIs are.


----------



## Blitz6804

Joe: I do not think the AM2 DFI boards are as complex or as full-featured as the 939 boards were. In my experience, the DK 790FX was about on-par for difficulty with the Abit AT8-32x. However, the UT 790FX may be a different story. The UT has a bigger PWM and a few more settings the DK 790FX lacks.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Joe: I do not think the AM2 DFI boards are as complex or as full-featured as the 939 boards were. In my experience, the *DK* 790FX was about on-par for difficulty with the Abit AT8-32x. However, the *UT* 790FX may be a different story. The UT has a bigger PWM and a few more settings the DK 790FX lacks.


Well, that's the whole ball of wax right there (see bolded text above).







In fact, you reminded me of this a while ago in a private conversation; you had noticed that the UT series of motherboards seems to be DFI's top-of-the-line. I have no doubt that the UT-series AM2 boards have more complex BIOSes than any of their other siblings.


----------



## Blitz6804

The BIOSes are surprisingly similar. The biggest difference between the two is the PWM and the chipset cooler. As far as I have researched, there is only one or two options missing from the DK. The JR on the other hand is a radically stripped DK.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, so the motherboard is capable of running 1T with a single stick of memory. For testing purposes, try only running 2T with your set of memory and let us know how that goes.

Good luck


2T with 2 or 4 sticks either way works fine all day long. Don't know why the my computer properties is only registering w2 2gig of ram with 4gig installed...

Blitz it's getting more stable. I'm loosening them up and we'll see how loose I have to make her before she likes it. no pun intended.


----------



## Blitz6804

Question: Is there a 4 GB BIOS switch? My Gigabyte would not see 4 GB in the BIOS until you changed a false to a true.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


2T with 2 or 4 sticks either way works fine all day long. Don't know why the my computer properties is only registering w2 2gig of ram with 4gig installed...



Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Question: Is there a 4 GB BIOS switch? My Gigabyte would not see 4 GB in the BIOS until you changed a false to a true.


Guys, there might be something in the BIOS related to, "memory hole remapping". Check to see if it's enabled. Remember in a 32-bit OS it's pretty much pointless to run 4GB of memory regardless of the \\PAE switch in the boot.ini. It's recommended that you run a 64-bit OS if you want to take full advantage of the 4GB's of memory.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Question: Is there a 4 GB BIOS switch? My Gigabyte would not see 4 GB in the BIOS until you changed a false to a true.

Good question. I guess the easiest way for me to find out is to put the 4 sticks in my ghetto opty 180 machine and see if it detects 4 gigs. that's why it's nice to have two exactly the same boards. if you think one has a problem you can always verify it with the other... of course were not all gonna get lucky and find a $18.00 nf4slidr board on ebay that may or may not work properly...

Oh yeah so far I have only been able to pass 25 min orthos with the DDR500 ram. going looser.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Guys, there might be something in the BIOS related to, "memory hole remapping". Check to see if it's enabled. Remember in a 32-bit OS it's pretty much pointless to run 4GB of memory regardless of the PAE switch in the boot.ini. It's recommended that you run a 64-bit OS if you want to take full advantage of the 4GB's of memory.

Good luck









Yes I have been running xp x64 since I bought my first DFI nf4 SLI DR board back in 2005. thanks for that information listed about \\PAE I don't know half of the stuff you all know but I follow directions pretty good!


----------



## Blitz6804

Do NOT use the /PAE switch if you are using a 64-bit OS.


----------



## Blitz6804

Sidebar: am I the only one who is going to be watching the Star Wars Holiday Special this year? Light Day on Kashyyyk for the win? Beats Charlie Brown's Kwanza. But only barely.


----------



## N2Gaming

well no dice Blitz. I tried 3-4-4-8-12-16-2T 3-3-3-8-11&12-11thru16 2T no go still crashes orthos. oh well. damb delete key just stopped working.


----------



## Blitz6804

In your BIOS, you should have a setting for DRAM driving strength. (One of the perks of having a DFI.) Try increasing the setting by a point or two. Higher settings work well when you have either a high HTT or a large number of DIMMs.


----------



## TestECull

:\\ I just went round II with my missing pin...this time, i took a length of steel from a bread tie to wedge in. Here's hoping the much longer substitute stays in till I can find my soldering pencil and a tip that works worth a damn...


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


BlackOmega, I actually would advise against trying the SLI mod on these Ultra-Ds. For one thing, only on the earlier revisions was this trick actually effective. For another, per Anandtech's contemporary article (circa 2005), nVidia was quite annoyed with DFI allowing the SLI mod to be possible, so accordingly they were supposed to write their drivers to completely nullify the possibility of a hacked SLI to ever work.

I've never tried the SLI mod, so I can't say definitively whether or not it would still work with today's drivers, so please take my comments here with a grain of salt. I do know for a fact (due to reading a bit about it from other DFI users on various forums) that only the early revisions of the Ultra-D was modifiable for SLI.

Last thing: According to various sources (Anandtech, among them), before DFI became an enthusiast parts manufacturer, DFI was actually an OEM motherboard designer and manufacturer (much like Foxconn and Asus are, as thlnk3r also mentioned). Only fairly recently (let's say since 2003 or 2004) did DFI begin to establish itself as an enthusiast parts provider. S939 saw them at their greatest, you could argue. Many say that, these days, DFI have lost a little of their shine because, although their motherboards are still great performers, they require a PhD in electronics to make them work properly and at their best; moreover, their performance lead no longer exists, as brands like Asus and others have matched them, or even surpassed them entirely. The big insult, though, is that other boards aren't as difficult to work with as DFIs are.










 I read that on a couple of forum discussions also, but there was no confirmation one way or the other. If youve heard otherwise plz let me know. In the mean time after reading that I just wanted to see if there was a different driver for the NF4 chipset and heres what Ive found:
nForce Driver 
Version: 15.23 
Release Date: September 12, 2008 
Operating System: Windows XP 32-Bit 
Language: U.S. English 
File Size: 50.8 MB

And heres all the supported chipsets:
nForce 790i Ultra SLI
nForce 790i SLI
nForce 780i SLI
nForce 750i SLI
nForce 680i SLI
nForce 680a SLI
nForce 680i LT SLI
nForce 650i SLI
nForce 650i Ultra
nForce 590 SLI Intel
nForce 590 SLI AMD
nForce 570 SLI Intel
nForce 570 SLI AMD
nForce 570 Ultra AMD
nForce 560
nForce 550
nForce 520
nForce4 SLI X16 Intel
nForce4 SLI X16 AMD
nForce4 SLI Intel
nForce4 SLI AMD
nForce4 SLI XE Intel
nForce4 Ultra Intel
nForce4 Ultra AMD
nForce4 AMD

So just by looking at this, I would assume that the mod would work. Because the driver is the same as the SLIx16 and regular NF4 SLI chipsets.


----------



## Blitz6804

Wow... they stopped supporting nForce3 in XP now too. Lame...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Sounds like it's worth a shot, then, BlackOmega.

*BTW, I'm considering your offer.







I beg you for some patience; lots of things are happening at the moment.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *testecull* 
: i just went round ii with my missing pin...this time, i took a length of steel from a bread tie to wedge in. Here's hoping the much longer substitute stays in till i can find my soldering pencil and a tip that works worth a damn...

pics!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Yes I have been running xp x64 since I bought my first DFI nf4 SLI DR board back in 2005. thanks for that information listed about PAE I don't know half of the stuff you all know but I follow directions pretty good!










N2Gaming, I apologize. I should of read your signature to see what OS you were running. In that case 4GB of memory should be showing up in the XP 64-bit. Please verify in your BIOS that "memory hole remapping" is available and enabled. I don't recall seeing it in my SLI-DR board









Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

thanks, I'll look for it right now. memory hole remaping. got it.


----------



## N2Gaming

Ok so I did not find any memory hole remaping but I did find memory hole for pci mmio. I also found cpu spread spectrum, pci spread spectrum and sata spread spectrum. should I disable all these spread spectrums? I found *THIS* and from what I gather it is better to disable it.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Ok so I did not find any memory hole remaping but I did find memory hole for pci mmio. I also found cpu spread spectrum, pci spread spectrum and sata spread spectrum. should I disable all these spread spectrums? I found *THIS* and from what I gather it is better to disable it.


N2Gaming, it's shame that option is not available. Perhaps we are missing something









In regards to the Spectrum questions, it's best that you do disable those features when overclocking. I currently have all of mine disabled.

Good luck bud


----------



## N2Gaming

ya I'm gonna keep em disabled and the memory hole for pci mmio did not do it either. guess I'll have to put em in the other rig to see if it detects all four sticks... I'll do that later though, thanks


----------



## TestECull

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
pics!


If I take it out, I don't think I'd be able to get it to come back on again...:\\ The replacement pin isn't actually soldered on, it's just kinda wedged in there. If I can find my soldering pencil, a new high-precision tip and some very fine solder, however, I'll pop it out and solder the pin on properly. I'll be sure to snap pix then.

Just take my word for it, will ya? I broke a pin off, and I fixed it in a ghetto way. lol.

doesn't matter much tho. I have it running, posting from it now.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
If I take it out, I don't think I'd be able to get it to come back on again...: The replacement pin isn't actually soldered on, it's just kinda wedged in there. If I can find my soldering pencil, a new high-precision tip and some very fine solder, however, I'll pop it out and solder the pin on properly. I'll be sure to snap pix then.

Just take my word for it, will ya? I broke a pin off, and I fixed it in a ghetto way. lol.

doesn't matter much tho. I have it running, posting from it now.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Sounds like it's worth a shot, then, BlackOmega.

*BTW, I'm considering your offer.







I beg you for some patience; lots of things are happening at the moment.









I know how it goes. Im doing some intensive all day training (school) for 3 weeks, and thats in addition to my microbiology class, which is hard enough on its own, and then tryin to be a good dad on top of that.








But definitely keep me posted, Im going to be bidding on one later today. Hopefully I can get it REALLY cheap.


----------



## Blitz6804

By the way, if I am sparse lately, do not feel bad. Yesterday (Thursday) was my last day of classes this semester. I have a Patent paper (20% of grade) due Monday, my Evidence final (100% of grade) on Tuesday, my Trademark and Unfair Competition final (80% of grade) also on Tuesday, and an Intellectual Property paper (80% of grade) due on the 18th. As soon as I finish that paper (as it can be handed in early) I am likely going down to Long Island to spend December. As we all know, I am on less when down there than when home.

Good luck on the bidding BlackOmega!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

To all our scholars and students in Club S939, here's a wish for great overclocked performances during exams and papers weeks for y'all!









(Sorry for the OT.)


----------



## N2Gaming

has any one tried using something similar to what is linked here http://www.start64.com/index.php?opt...1512&Itemid=73 I'm thinking about it but I don't know if certain games will not work becuase they may detect the software and disable the game. Any thoughts about it other than wether it's legal or not.


----------



## Blitz6804

Now, I am not yet an attorney, so what I say I will not be held liable for. That said, I would think the software itself is legal, but it depends on what you put into it. If you break an encryption method on a CD/DVD to create an ISO, then you are in violation of the DMCA. If you mount an ISO created as such (for example, Ubuntu Linux) that would be perfectly legit.


----------



## N2Gaming

Uh ok I don't know a whole lot about all that stuff. I am thinking about using a thumb drive for my windows xp disk. I think that would be illegal though. the problem I have right now is my xp disk has a small crack on the inside working it's way to the outside. for now the disk works but for how long I can't say. I don't know if microsoft will send me a new copy of the os on disk being that it's an OEM and all. I was doing some research and found the link listed in my last post and thought it would be kind of cool. I'm looking at another link about virtual machine seen here and I'm thinking about trying it so that I can use my scanner again with win 98/2000 pro. Sorry toppic is not related to s939 but I'll be using it on my 939 so it's kind of relevant...


----------



## Blitz6804

I would recommend running a bead of crazy glue on the backside of the disk (on the non-read side) along the length of the crack. That should prevent it from further traveling.

And yes, if the Windows XP disk has any matter of copy protection, you may not circumvent it to make a transformative copy under the DMCA.


----------



## N2Gaming

thanks.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I'm looking at another link about virtual machine seen here and I'm thinking about trying it so that I can use my scanner again with win 98/2000 pro. Sorry toppic is not related to s939 but I'll be using it on my 939 so it's kind of relevant...

N2Gaming, check out VMware server. It's completely free and easy to set up. I run this software at home and at work.

This link will take you to the website: http://www.vmware.com/products/server/.

Hope that helps


----------



## N2Gaming

cool, thanks I'll have to try it soon.


----------



## Rolandooo

Hey guys I finally got the 4200+









http://i34.tinypic.com/33beqkk.jpg

So I am currently testing OCZ Freeze, and about how much to use. My temps are too high for my liking, but I will keep trying and see how much to really use.

Oh yea the chip is already lapped and I am using the recommended amount
of TIM, maybe I should try less.


----------



## Blitz6804

Do you wish me to add that validation to the off-site roster now Rolandooo, or do you wish for me to wait for you to get to the speed you are satisfied with?


----------



## Rolandooo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Do you wish me to add that validation to the off-site roster now Rolandooo, or do you wish for me to wait for you to get to the speed you are satisfied with?

Thats not fully tested, I just wanted to see if it would boot. Add me as stock for now please.


----------



## Blitz6804

"Rolandoo (04/20/2008) Athlon64 3200+ Venice @ 2613 MHz
Athlon64 X2 4200+ [email protected] 2200 MHz [Bone Stock!] (^_^) "

So added.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rolandooo*


Hey guys I finally got the 4200+









http://i34.tinypic.com/33beqkk.jpg

So I am currently testing OCZ Freeze, and about how much to use. My temps are too high for my liking, but I will keep trying and see how much to really use.

Oh yea the chip is already lapped and I am using the recommended amount
of TIM, maybe I should try less.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Now, I am not yet an attorney, so what I say I will not be held liable for..

I like the disclaimer.







Spoken like a true attorney.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well, I know this isn't specifically 939 related, but it is AMD related







. Anyway for those of us waiting the next "big thing" from AMD, it has hit. Shanghai is now available on newegg. Just check under "Socket F" processors....they're there and ready to be bought now. Only problem, there's no Socket F boards that support it yet that I know of







.


----------



## Rolandooo

Wow ocz freeze sure was a little tricky to get right. Maybe because on OCZ's site they recommend a dab of it (roughly the size of a grain of rice)... Well I basically used the line method I used for my quad, and wala temps dropped alot.

Good thing I bought two tubes. I think I may still prefer Shin Etsu over it though.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Well, I know this isn't specifically 939 related, but it is AMD related







. Anyway for those of us waiting the next "big thing" from AMD, it has hit. Shanghai is now available on newegg. Just check under "Socket F" processors....they're there and ready to be bought now. Only problem, there's no Socket F boards that support it yet that I know of







.

Pio, give the manufacturers a few more weeks. We'll probably start to see Socket F boards by January. They'll probably be too expensive though. Your better off waiting for the desktop version (ie. Deneb).

Good luck


----------



## GuardianOdin

Hey guys bad news for me. No more 939 upgrades for me. Looks like my car is done for. The engine and transmission need to be replaced. I'm stuck with buying another car or fixing my current myself. The cold weather pushed it to far this time. I'm pretty sure the oil pump stopped working and the trans is just shot, not sure what happened yet.

Joe and Blitz. I won't be able to buy anything from you guys right now. Please don't hold any parts for me.

The only good news I have. I was able to get my rig stable at 2.9Ghz but the RAM seems to only like T2 timings. Every time I try working up to my old settings it crashes.


----------



## thlnk3r

Guardian, sorry to hear that buddy. Figures...right before Christmas too









I hope you get everything straightened out.

Congrats on the 2.9Ghz overclock. Are you referring to the CAS timing or the command rate when you say "T2"?

Good luck bud


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rolandooo*


Hey guys I finally got the 4200+









http://i34.tinypic.com/33beqkk.jpg


Nice, and you got it already lapped?

This might not be the best timing Considering GO's situation but I finally got my M2N32 sli delux back from Asus on a second RMA, at last it works.









Sorry to hear about your car troubles. Pick your part or Pick N Pull auto Dismantelers is the first place I turn to if I need a tranny or engine. I don't know if they have those in your part of the country but if you plan on doing the work your self you could probably save a lot of scratch by looking into a Auto Salvage/dismanteling yard for your engine/transmission. do you know for sure the engine is bad. oops sory guys wrong thread to be talking about auto's,









GO hit me up with a pm if you'd like to discus it in further detail.









I picked up some more goodies today for project BNBB. Oh I guess I'll post that over in that thread as well. Wow it's this late already my how time fly's.


----------



## TestECull

Hey guys...In a few days, probably next fri, I might give OCing my 4200+ X2 a try. Anyone have a rough guesstimate as to where I can get it and still be rock stable?

GO: Sucks, dude. :\\ Is the car worth anything sentimentally? IF not...I say junk it and replace. Engine/tranny combos are expensive as hell, and junkyard models really need a proper internal inspection before they can be trusted to start properly. There's no telling why it ended up in that junkyard in the first place...


----------



## N2Gaming

That's why I asked him to pm me! If you know what your looking for it can be done reletiverly efective and cheap. Any how I'd have to agree with testecul on the value of the car comment. If the vehicle holds no value one way or another you might be better off finding another sorce of trasnportation.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Guardian, sorry to hear that buddy. Figures...right before Christmas too









I hope you get everything straightened out.

Congrats on the 2.9Ghz overclock. Are you referring to the CAS timing or the command rate when you say "T2"?

Good luck bud

Thanks Think, yes that is what I am referring to. I simply may be missing a certain timing I had before, but it's not looking that way.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Nice, and you got it already lapped?

This might not be the best timing Considering GO's situation but I finally got my M2N32 sli delux back from Asus on a second RMA, at last it works.









Sorry to hear about your car troubles. Pick your part or Pick N Pull auto Dismantelers is the first place I turn to if I need a tranny or engine. I don't know if they have those in your part of the country but if you plan on doing the work your self you could probably save a lot of scratch by looking into a Auto Salvage/dismanteling yard for your engine/transmission. do you know for sure the engine is bad. oops sory guys wrong thread to be talking about auto's,









GO hit me up with a pm if you'd like to discus it in further detail.









I picked up some more goodies today for project BNBB. Oh I guess I'll post that over in that thread as well. Wow it's this late already my how time fly's.









We have a few very good "junk" yards here and my uncle being a car nuts all the owners,the problem is price. I very strapped for cash right now. My garnishment is just about finished. I believe I have 2 more months left on it. After that is done. I believe I will just go buy a decent used car.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
Hey guys...In a few days, probably next fri, I might give OCing my 4200+ X2 a try. Anyone have a rough guesstimate as to where I can get it and still be rock stable?

GO: Sucks, dude. : Is the car worth anything sentimentally? IF not...I say junk it and replace. Engine/tranny combos are expensive as hell, and junkyard models really need a proper internal inspection before they can be trusted to start properly. There's no telling why it ended up in that junkyard in the first place...

Nope no sentimental attachment to it. It's a 94 Bonneville and it has been a great car up until the last 2 years. Now it's just not worth putting $1000 into. I can get a tranny and engine for about $200 per but there is a lot more that has to be done when I do that. For starters, the subframe mounts will have to be replaced when the work is "if" done. That alone will cost $400 for front and back mounts.

In the end, I will be better off buying a decent used car and if I can manage my money. I may be able to buy a new car ....albeit a cheap one.


----------



## N2Gaming

that's good to hear...

I just thought I would share a experiance with all you s939'rs.

So I run xp x64 and if you try to use the drivers listed on dfi's web sight you get not qualified drivers that don't work for beans. so I did a little digging and ended up finding drivers that do work for this board. they are the same drivers that dfi links but I think they may have crossed links to the wrong drivers and just droped the ball becuase the board is obsolete in there eye's. So if any one is using a DFI NF4 SLI DR mobo w/XP x64 bit HERE are the correct drivers for the mother board. I don't know how important this is to the club but I was wondering where it could get referenced so that other nf4 sli dr users could have access to the correct drivers.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Hey guys bad news for me. No more 939 upgrades for me. Looks like my car is done for. The engine and transmission need to be replaced. I'm stuck with buying another car or fixing my current myself. The cold weather pushed it to far this time. I'm pretty sure the oil pump stopped working and the trans is just shot, not sure what happened yet..

Year/make/model?
Oil pumps dont just stop working for no reason.
Whats the car doing? What kinds of noises is it making?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Year/make/model?
Oil pumps dont just stop working for no reason.
Whats the car doing? What kinds of noises is it making?

As he said a couple of post ago.

uncle being a car nuts all the owners,the problem is price

I'm guessing his uncle knows a lot about cars and was able to tell him what is wrong w/his car. if you want to test the oil pump. take a valve cover off and start the car. if it makes a big mess then oil pump is not the problem.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
As he said a couple of post ago.

uncle being a car nuts all the owners,the problem is price

I'm guessing his uncle knows a lot about cars and was able to tell him what is wrong w/his car. if you want to test the oil pump. take a valve cover off and start the car. if it makes a big mess then oil pump is not the problem.

Sometimes its not always what you think it is. And some cars wont start with the valve cover off because the crankcase is pressurized. And even if it does start with the cover off, that doesnt mean itll keep pressure when it gets hot.


----------



## Nenkitsune

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Sometimes its not always what you think it is. And some cars wont start with the valve cover off because the crankcase is pressurized. And even if it does start with the cover off, that doesnt mean itll keep pressure when it gets hot.

not quite true. there is pressure in the crankcase, but it's not positive pressure. the reason a car may/may not start with the valve cover off is because the block itself is part of the vacuum system. Pull the cover off (or even take off the oil cap) and you've created a big vacuum leak. oh, and it'll never have pressure with the cover off (vacuum pressure that is)

(sorry, bit of a car nut, I own an old datsun Z lmao)

there's a better way to test the oil pump taht won't destroy the car. find out how you can prime the oil pump with a drill, and just crank the pump to see if you have oil pressure. Oil pumps are one of those things that don't really fail though. if they do fail though, the engine will sort of...grenade, or seize, and then won't even crank over (you'll get a click, and that's it, and you won't be able to manually turn over the engine)

if it's cold weather that damaged the car, it would be because the engine wasn't warmed up enough, and you damaged the bearings on either the crank or the rods. thick oil doesn't flow well, so if the oil is thick enough, the bearings won't get much oil till it all warms up nice. ALSO, the pistons won't be expanded properly, and giving it too much stress or reving it can cause the pistons to wiggle in the cylinders and break the skirts off, causing a lot of problems (broken riglands and tons of knocking)

same goes for the bearings. if you starve a bearing it'll seize and spin in place, totally cutting off all oil to the bearing and causing a ton of knocking.

as for the transmission though....if it's an auto, sorry you're out of luck there. there's no point diagnosing those...if they go, you've got no choice but bringing it to a shop to rebuild or get a replacement. stupid auto's. at least with manuals you can rebuild them on your own if you know enough mechanics


----------



## pioneerisloud

Sorry to hear about your car G.O.







. I have a feeling my car is headed the same way, but we'll see.

To everyone:
I may be disappearing from the internet any day now. Since I was fired from my job, I haven't been able to pay the cable bill or electric bill....so pio and froggy may have quite the cold christmas. Both are due to be shut off this week (cable is due to shutoff today). And yes, I mean shutoff....I don't mean this is when the bills are due, they are shutoff notices at this point.

However, before I go....
I was wondering if anybody happened to know of a "hacked" BIOS for the A8N32-SLI Deluxe? I remember hearing rumors of one when I first got my board. I guess it allows different memory dividers, and I'd REALLY like that 150MHz divider. If anybody has any info on this BIOS, please, feel free to let me know







.

~If I don't happen to talk to you guys for a while, have a very merry Christmas everyone. I'm hoping it won't come to losing the cable and power, but I just don't know this time.


----------



## majakone

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Year/make/model?
Oil pumps dont just stop working for no reason. 
Whats the car doing? What kinds of noises is it making?










Oil pumps DO just stop working


----------



## majakone

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Sorry to hear about your car G.O.







. I have a feeling my car is headed the same way, but we'll see.

To everyone:
I may be disappearing from the internet any day now. Since I was fired from my job, I haven't been able to pay the cable bill or electric bill....so pio and froggy may have quite the cold christmas. Both are due to be shut off this week (cable is due to shutoff today). And yes, I mean shutoff....I don't mean this is when the bills are due, they are shutoff notices at this point.

However, before I go....
I was wondering if anybody happened to know of a "hacked" BIOS for the A8N32-SLI Deluxe? I remember hearing rumors of one when I first got my board. I guess it allows different memory dividers, and I'd REALLY like that 150MHz divider. If anybody has any info on this BIOS, please, feel free to let me know







.

~If I don't happen to talk to you guys for a while, have a very merry Christmas everyone. I'm hoping it won't come to losing the cable and power, but I just don't know this time.


Personally i wouldnt worry about a hacked bios







, just my opinion , id be worrying about paying the bills


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *majakone*


Personally i wouldnt worry about a hacked bios







, just my opinion , id be worrying about paying the bills










Of course, but yeah....kinda don't have anyway to pay the bills. So I figured I'd tinker with my rig till the lights go out.


----------



## Blitz6804

Ah hem... this is the Socket 939 Appreciation Club and Knowledgebase. Nenkitsune, please do not turn it into the "diagnose what is wrong with my car knowledgebase." GuardianOdin told us why he will not be around for a while; we need not go off on a tangent about it.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I was wondering if anybody happened to know of a "hacked" BIOS for the A8N32-SLI Deluxe? I remember hearing rumors of one when I first got my board. I guess it allows different memory dividers, and I'd REALLY like that 150MHz divider.


Uh, how lousy of ASUS not to release an official BIOS w/ 150MHz divider. Have you tried the latest beta one? I'm running that divider at the moment and my board is older than yours.


----------



## Blitz6804

But his is an nVidia chipset, yours is a Via chipset. They could have had different goals when they made the boards. (I tried an A8V-X, the stripped version of your board. All the PCI slots were dead, the voltage was locked at 1.410 V, and the HTT could not go over 225 MHz without blue-screening. I hope yours works better.)


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Hey guys bad news for me. No more 939 upgrades for me. Looks like my car is done for. The engine and transmission need to be replaced. I'm stuck with buying another car or fixing my current myself. The cold weather pushed it to far this time. I'm pretty sure the oil pump stopped working and the trans is just shot, not sure what happened yet.

Joe and Blitz. I won't be able to buy anything from you guys right now. Please don't hold any parts for me.

The only good news I have. I was able to get my rig stable at 2.9Ghz but the RAM seems to only like T2 timings. Every time I try working up to my old settings it crashes.










wish you were closer. I would help you with the car.

Great news about the OC!


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I don't know how important this is to the club but I was wondering where it could get referenced so that other nf4 sli dr users could have access to the correct drivers.










MegaOption(I think that's the mods name) has a thread for what files you want hosted here.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 

~If I don't happen to talk to you guys for a while, have a very merry Christmas everyone. I'm hoping it won't come to losing the cable and power, but I just don't know this time.

Sorry to hear that Bro, I have not had cable or internet for like 4 years. My neighbor allows me to leech his Wireless. Maybe you can setup up something similar.

*Hey* peops what is the going rate for a 4200+? since this looks like a good deat I may bid on it.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=320322667985

I think it's time I got a dual core. But my funds are real bad so I have to keep my upgrades cheap.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
Uh, how lousy of ASUS not to release an official BIOS w/ 150MHz divider. Have you tried the latest beta one? I'm running that divider at the moment and my board is older than yours.









As far as I know, the latest Beta BIOS doesn't have any extra dividers either. I know, I've been going over this with Blitz in IM for some time now this morning. Seems there are a LOT of different boards out there that have this divider option. Mine doesn't though







.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Sorry to hear that Bro, I have not had cable or internet for like 4 years. My neighbor allows me to leech his Wireless. Maybe you can setup up something similar.

*Hey* peops what is the going rate for a 4200+? since this looks like a good deat I may bid on it.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=320322667985

I think it's time I got a dual core. But my funds are real bad so I have to keep my upgrades cheap.

Its a good idea, however none of my neighbors speak any darn english!!! That, and I don't have a single wireless piece of equipment in the house (other than remote controls for TV's). I have thought about offering my internet to the neighbors as wireless options, and let them pay part of the bill....but as I said, they don't speak english







.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I have thought about offering my internet to the neighbors as wireless options, and let them pay part of the bill....but as I said, they don't speak english







.

Good idea. become a little isp. I'm sure if you go over there they will find a person to translate. I have lived around many people in my life that don't speak english (My last fiance was dominican) and where there is a will there is a way.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

G.O. and pio (+ froggy), you have no idea how sad your stories make me.







I truly hope things take a turn for the better for all of you. It kills me when people I care about go through tough times.

pio, veedub, our old dear friend, used to run a modded BIOS on his A8N32-SLI Deluxe. He gave me a link to it. Look for Post# 5957 here.

Mind you, I myself have never tested this BIOS, so use it at your own risk (this goes for anyone with an A8N32-SLI Deluxe). veedub is the only one I know who has any experience with it, and as far as I know it worked great for him. But always be mindful of the overclocker's maxim: Your mileage may vary. What worked for his board might not for you. The fear of FUBARing my motherboard is one reason why I've not tried this on mine (the other reason is that I'd found a great set of settings, and I don't feel like testing everything all over again).

G.O. and pio and froggy, I really hope you guys have a great holiday season despite how things look right now. If you need anything, my PM box is always open.









Good luck!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Unfortunately, the link you gave my Joe says "File could not be found". I remember veedub used to run a modded BIOS, so I know its out there. Sigh. I've been googling for it since 6am this morning.


----------



## Hueristic

anyone on the 4200+? I'm running out of time.
the X2 3800,4200,4400 seem to be gettable for under $50.
I have under 2 hours to decide.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Unfortunately, the link you gave my Joe says "File could not be found". I remember veedub used to run a modded BIOS, so I know its out there. Sigh. I've been googling for it since 6am this morning.

Hmm...







That's the link veedub gave me. For whatever reason, it seems that the file must have been removed now. In hindsight I wish I had downloaded the modded BIOS, even if I wasn't going to use it.

Try PMing veedub; he may have saved the BIOS file somewhere. The chances of this are remote, but it looks like it's your only shot.

Good luck.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Sorry to hear that Bro, I have not had cable or internet for like 4 years. My neighbor allows me to leech his Wireless. Maybe you can setup up something similar.

*Hey* peops what is the going rate for a 4200+? since this looks like a good deat I may bid on it.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=320322667985

I think it's time I got a dual core. But my funds are real bad so I have to keep my upgrades cheap.

Hueristic, my own personal appraisal for a Manchester is no more than $50.00 tops. Manchesters don't OC nearly as well as Toledo/Denmarks do.

Good luck on your bidding


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Hmm...







That's the link veedub gave me. For whatever reason, it seems that the file must have been removed now. In hindsight I wish I had downloaded the modded BIOS, even if I wasn't going to use it.

Try PMing veedub; he may have saved the BIOS file somewhere. The chances of this are remote, but it looks like it's your only shot.

Good luck.









I'm ahead of you there







. I already shot him a PM. Just for the fun of it, I'm going to try a different BIOS that was linked to me in my thread. I'll give it a go. Won't hurt anything I spose.

EDIT:
Like I've been saying, all I want is the 150 divider (and 125 if possible). I haven't tried the latest beta BIOS (1405), so I don't know for sure if its in there. I tried it once, a LONG time ago...but I forget what all options it had.


----------



## Blitz6804

Hueristic: If you can get a 4400+ for under $50, that would be your best bet. A 3800+ and 4200+ are either Manchesters (E4) or disabled Toledos (E6), in either case, they *tend* not to clock as well.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 

Hueristic, my own personal appraisal for a Manchester is no more than $50.00 tops. Manchesters don't OC nearly as well as Toledo/Denmarks do.

Good luck on your bidding









Damn board picked a lousey time to go down! I was in the middle of posting.









Thx for the info. price is like 56 with shipping now.

I don't know which cores are which. So what one's should I be looking for for $50 or under?

This one is ending soon. another 4200, BTW I noticed the max temp of 4200 is 71 while 4400 is 60.

AMD Athlon 64 X2 Dual-Core 4200+ processor


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Damn board picked a lousey time to go down! I was in the middle of posting.









Thx for the info. price is like 56 with shipping now.

I don't know which cores are which. So what one's should I be looking for for $50 or under?

This one is ending soon. another 4200, BTW I noticed the max temp of 4200 is 71 while 4400 is 60.

AMD Athlon 64 X2 Dual-Core 4200+ processor


I didn't know if you knew this or not...

But keep in mind that the chip you linked us to is for Socket AM2, not 939







.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Hueristic: If you can get a 4400+ for under $50, that would be your best bet. A 3800+ and 4200+ are either Manchesters (E4) or disabled Toledos (E6), in either case, they *tend* not to clock as well.


THX man, We cross posted. So what are max clocks I could possibly get from

3800
4200
4400
4600?

I was also thinking of getting a daughter board (I have the Asrock 939 dual sata2 and the MSI[ KN8 NEO3)

The lowest I have found the daughter board for the Asrock is $40. But AM2 chips are cheap. But with my $50 limit I would have to get the board (I expect it to only get harder and more expensive to find)then the chip later. I also like the ASROCK better as I can run the AGP and PCI-E at the same time and I am not a fan on MSI anyway (Nor Nvidia chipsets).


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I didn't know if you knew this or not...

But keep in mind that the chip you linked us to is for Socket AM2, not 939







.


WOOPS! I forgot I was watching that one to possibly couple with the daughter board.


----------



## Blitz6804

Dual-Core AMD CPUs that top out at 71Âº C are 89 W TDP. (Manchester: 3600+, 3800+, 4200+; Toledo: 3800+, 4200+, 4400+.) Those that top out at 65Âº C are 110 W. (Manchester: 3600+, 4600+; Toledo: 4400+, 4600+, 4800+, FX-60; all Denmarks.)


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Sorry to hear that Bro, I have not had cable or internet for like 4 years. My neighbor allows me to leech his Wireless. Maybe you can setup up something similar.

*Hey* peops what is the going rate for a 4200+? since this looks like a good deat I may bid on it.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=320322667985

I think it's time I got a dual core. But my funds are real bad so I have to keep my upgrades cheap.


I'm confused. this link shows me a 939 cpu and if I had been bidding and won, it would have shipped to me for $5.00. That's not a bad price for shipping. As far as the chip goes, I'm not up to snuff with what chips and stepping is the best either.

Daughter board. what do you do with that. does it plug into an open pci slot or does it plug into the s939 cpu socket, and will it enable the use of a am2 cpu???


----------



## eviloverclocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I'm ahead of you there







. I already shot him a PM. Just for the fun of it, I'm going to try a different BIOS that was linked to me in my thread. I'll give it a go. Won't hurt anything I spose.

EDIT:
Like I've been saying, all I want is the 150 divider (and 125 if possible). I haven't tried the latest beta BIOS (1405), so I don't know for sure if its in there. I tried it once, a LONG time ago...but I forget what all options it had.


I'm running 1405, its got the same settings as the older bios's. It doesn't have those dividers. It would be nice to have some more divider options to try.


----------



## Blitz6804

I cannot think of how a daughter board would work. The difference of DDR/DDR2 should preclude that option. I know with Socket 423/478, you could only use a Socket 478 in the daughter board that used the same RAM as the native 423.

He posted two different CPUs. The first was a Manchester, the second was a Brisbane. Err... not a Brisbane; a crippled Windsor.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Dual-Core AMD CPUs that top out at 71Âº C are 89 W TDP. (Manchester: 3600+, 3800+, 4200+; Toledo: 3800+, 4200+, 4400+.) Those that top out at 65Âº C are 110 W. (Manchester: 3600+, 4600+; Toledo: 4400+, 4600+, 4800+, FX-60; all Denmarks.)


THX dude But something is really confuseing me.

I would expect the lower power chip the OC better than the higher wattage one if it has the same core. IE Toledo 89w 4400+ > Toledo 110w 4400+

BTW THE FX prices are soo insane that you would have to be a tard to buy one! Even for servers!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I'm confused. this link shows me a 939 cpu and if I had been bidding and won it would have shipped to me for $5.00. That's not a bad price for shipping. As far as the chip goes I'm not up to snuff with what chips and stepping is the best either.

Daughter board. what do you do with that. does it plug into an open pci slot or does it plug into the s939 cpu socket, and will it enable the use of a am2 cpu???


Yes the daughter board allows some Asrock boards (there is a slot next to the cpu for the riser card) to run [email protected] and DDR2. From Benching tests online they stand up to the AM2 boards. Asus really does Rock!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I cannot think of how a daughter board would work. The difference of DDR/DDR2 should preclude that option. I know with Socket 423/478, you could only use a Socket 478 in the daughter board that used the same RAM as the native 423.

He posted two different CPUs. The first was a Manchester, the second was a Brisbane. Err... not a Brisbane; a crippled Windsor.


There are socket adapters for 775 boards to run 478 chips. OK i'll bite, What's a crippled Windsor. Unless you haven't noticed I don't reasearch anymore until I need to upgrade!







Getting too old and lazy!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


G.O. and pio (+ froggy), you have no idea how sad your stories make me.







I truly hope things take a turn for the better for all of you. It kills me when people I care about go through tough times.

G.O. and pio and froggy, I really hope you guys have a great holiday season despite how things look right now. If you need anything, my PM box is always open.









Good luck!










 PIO, I will ad you to my prayers in hopes that both of us will be able to find Employment in the days to come...

Rep+ to txtmstrjoe if I could that is just one of the most awesome jestures I have seen on this thread or from any OCN member thus far. It just goes to show, you have great character and truly a big heart


----------



## Blitz6804

From terms of heat dissipation, yes, an 89 W processor has a higher ceiling to play with than a 110 W processor. However, as we prove time and again, Opterons are *generally* better binned processors than their Toledo cousins, and so, *tend* to clock better.

I would recommend getting an Opteron 170/175. Failing that, go with an Opteron 165/180. Failing that, with an 89 W Toledo 4400+. Failing that, go with a 110 W Toledo 4400+/4800+. Failing that, go with a Toledo 3800+.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


From terms of heat dissipation, yes, an 89 W processor has a higher ceiling to play with than a 110 W processor. However, as we prove time and again, Opterons are *generally* better binned processors than their Toledo cousins, and so, *tend* to clock better.

I would recommend getting an Opteron 170/175. Failing that, go with an Opteron 165/180. Failing that, with an 89 W Toledo 4400+. Failing that, go with a 110 W Toledo 4400+/4800+. Failing that, go with a Toledo 3800+.


Perfect! sometimes I need everything spelled out!







thx bro.


----------



## N2Gaming

LOL







Sounds a bit like to much failing... I would like to have an opty 170-175 my self but finding one is near impossible. At least one that I know for sure I won't have to worry about having problems with...


----------



## Blitz6804

The theory is that with Opteron 165s, they tend to be limited by the low multiplier. (On the right board, such as Pioneer's Asus A8N32-SLI Dlx or GuardianOdin's DFI LANParty UT NF4 SLI-DR Expert, you can really crank up the HTT to make up for this.) With Opteron 180/185s, they tend to be too expensive. The 170/175 offers the best balance of clockability and price; I often see them running around 2.8 GHz.

And yes N2Gaming; I am the eternal pessimist to Joe's sunny optimism. I like to write things in the negative.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *majakone*









Oil pumps DO just stop working










 No they dont, they wear slowly with time and lose pressure. Unless you dont change your oil and the sludge turns into hardened carbon, somehow gets past the screen on the oil pump pickup and gets stuck between the gears causing it to sieze and either grenade the oil pump driveshaft, or just break the gears themselves. Mind you this is exetremely uncommon. Most engines slowly wear down and lose pressure, and people dont notice until pointed out by a tech or the engine quits.
Also certain engines have rubber o-rings between the oil pump and the block, even those dont typically fail. The only way Ive seen those fail is whent he engine was serviced and the tech either didnt replace the o-ring or damaged it upon reassembly.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nenkitsune*


not quite true. there is pressure in the crankcase, but it's not positive pressure. the reason a car may/may not start with the valve cover off is because the block itself is part of the vacuum system. Pull the cover off (or even take off the oil cap) and you've created a big vacuum leak. oh, and it'll never have pressure with the cover off (vacuum pressure that is)


 Thats exactly what I said in not so many words







And the pressure I was referring to when I said that it might not have pressure when it warms up is oil pressure, not crankcase pressure.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nenkitsune*


there's a better way to test the oil pump taht won't destroy the car. find out how you can prime the oil pump with a drill, and just crank the pump to see if you have oil pressure. Oil pumps are one of those things that don't really fail though. if they do fail though, the engine will sort of...grenade, or seize, and then won't even crank over (you'll get a click, and that's it, and you won't be able to manually turn over the engine)


 I dont think you can test his this way, if I heard correctly its a 94 bonne, which very well could have distributorless ignition (coil packs) and the oil pump is driven off of the crank. (Im not a GM guy so Im not positive about this).So the only way you could test it is by actually cranking the engine. A lot of the newer cars are like this, the oil pump mounts to the front of the engine and goes around the crank, kind of like a timing cover on small block Fords.. There's notches or flat spots on the crank that line up with the inner pump gear. So therefore no drill is going to help you. 
I know the method youre talking about, I use it to prime my 302's upon initial startup. The oil pump needs a driveshaft to be done this way.

PS: Im a car nut too, but Im also a Certified mechanic







and soon going to be a certified nursing assistant, then an RN, then a nurse practictioner, and just for kicks and giggles I think Ill go get my personal traing cert too.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


MegaOption(I think that's the mods name) has a thread for what files you want hosted here.


Hueristic, Thank you. I posted over there. I guess that's all I can do for now.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


No they dont, they wear slowly with time and lose pressure. Unless you dont change your oil and the sludge turns into hardened carbon, somehow gets past the screen on the oil pump pickup and gets stuck between the gears causing it to sieze and either grenade the oil pump driveshaft, or just break the gears themselves. Mind you this is exetremely uncommon. Most engines slowly wear down and lose pressure, and people dont notice until pointed out by a tech or the engine quits.
Also certain engines have rubber o-rings between the oil pump and the block, even those dont typically fail. The only way Ive seen those fail is whent he engine was serviced and the tech either didnt replace the o-ring or damaged it upon reassembly.

Thats exactly what I said in not so many words







And the pressure I was referring to when I said that it might not have pressure when it warms up is oil pressure, not crankcase pressure.

I dont think you can test his this way, if I heard correctly its a 94 bonne, which very well could have distributorless ignition (coil packs) and the oil pump is driven off of the crank. (Im not a GM guy so Im not positive about this).So the only way you could test it is by actually cranking the engine. A lot of the newer cars are like this, the oil pump mounts to the front of the engine and goes around the crank, kind of like a timing cover on small block Fords.. There's notches or flat spots on the crank that line up with the inner pump gear. So therefore no drill is going to help you. 
I know the method youre talking about, I use it to prime my 302's upon initial startup. The oil pump needs a driveshaft to be done this way.

PS: Im a car nut too, but Im also a Certified mechanic







and soon going to be a certified nursing assistant, then an RN, then a nurse practictioner, and just for kicks and giggles I think Ill go get my personal traing cert too.










LOL you guy's enough with the cars already. Maybe you could start a new texting match thread in regards to your Automobile expertise and have a text off to the finish...


----------



## Hueristic

Yeah kill the Car chatter Plz! I love (Well used to) working on them but this is not the thread.

So anyways, MY head is gonna Explode!!!! Been on ebay all day and now I want 2 dual opterons socket f(1207 it think) and a mobo for < 100. Not sure but I'm guessing the price is gonna just go down. Seems like the mobo is the issue (most have pci-x rather than pci-e).

But whatever I do All I really care about is Price/Performance. So I may have to retire this mobo/cup to the fold and become a retired member.

That would be pretty funny though as this would be the first socket type that I have owned since 8088/8086 days that I didn't learn everything about before moveing on! And it's the first one I ever joined a club over!!!!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Yeah kill the Car chatter Plz! I love (Well used to) working on them but this is not the thread.

So anyways, MY head is gonna Explode!!!! Been on ebay all day and now I want 2 dual opterons socket f(1207 it think) and a mobo for < 100. Not sure but I'm guessing the price is gonna just go down. Seems like the mobo is the issue (most have pci-x rather than pci-e).

But whatever I do All I really care about is Price/Performance. So I may have to retire this mobo/cup to the fold and become a retired member.

That would be pretty funny though as this would be the first socket type that I have owned since 8088/8086 days that I didn't learn everything about before moveing on! And it's the first one I ever joined a club over!!!!

I was going to buy a fx-6somthing for that socket on craiglist about 6 months ago really good price too. the only problem was finding a decent mobo to support it. and then finding another exact chip to run side by side with it... So I dropped that idea. "If you cant find a solution to run socket F1207, drop it like it's hot, drop it like it's hot"

Good luck with your search on that one. That would be a nice server platform...


----------



## BlackOmega

Sorry fellaz







cars not computer.....errrr wait computers not cars







Right right


----------



## BlackOmega

Hey is there like a Tag or something we can put in our sig supporting the 939 club? I know Im lazy, I just dont feel like looking


----------



## N2Gaming

YAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!! but if you can tell me how to plug my s939 computer into my car's for diagnostic purposes then I'm all for it...


----------



## N2Gaming

it's real easy, copy the url "for the first page of this thread" at the top of your browser. Then edit your sig and put in some fancy wording for the link you want to referenceand then click on the globe with a side ways figur 8 and paste the url address and click ok that will link to any thing you want to link to. and wala. Presto insta-majic you have a link in your sig...


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
YAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!! but if you can tell me how to plug my s939 computer into my car's for diagnostic purposes then I'm all for it...










You really wanna know?














First you d/l alldata diag software, then you get an OBDII connector wire (i believe it connects to the parallel port). Find your OBDII port, itll be under the dash (typicaly) in '96 and newer vehciles plug it in run the software, vwallah. You now have a OBDII scanner









Heres what a OBDII port looks like









and heres the connector wire









Hope this helps


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
it's real easy, copy the url "for the first page of this thread" at the top of your browser. Then edit your sig and put in some fancy wording for the link you want to referenceand then click on the globe with a side ways figur 8 and paste the url address and click ok that will link to any thing you want to link to. and wala. Presto insta-majic you have a link in your sig...


Dangit I was trying to be lazy and hoping someone could do it for me


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Dangit I was trying to be lazy and hoping someone could do it for me









you could always right click on some one elses 939 club link and copy shortcut and past it into your sig. come on now if you can show me how to do OBDII your not that lazy...


----------



## Blitz6804

Here you go:

Code:



Code:


[url=http://www.overclock.net/amd-general/293448-socket-939-appreciation-club-knowledgebase.html]Â¡Â¡Â¡ʍʇɟ qn1ɔ uoıʇɐıɔǝɹddɐ 939 ʇǝʞɔos ǝɥʇ[/url]


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
you could always right click on some one elses 939 club link and copy shortcut and past it into your sig. come on now if you can show me how to do OBDII your not that lazy...

















Hows about this?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Here you go:
Code:


Code:


[url=http://www.overclock.net/amd-general/293448-socket-939-appreciation-club-knowledgebase.html]Â¡Â¡Â¡ʍʇɟ qn1ɔ uoıʇɐıɔǝɹddɐ 939 ʇǝʞɔos ǝɥʇ[/url]



Thanks


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*









Hows about this?


 LOL looks can be deceiving


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Here you go:
Code:


Code:


[url=http://www.overclock.net/amd-general/293448-socket-939-appreciation-club-knowledgebase.html]Â¡Â¡Â¡ʍʇɟ qn1ɔ uoıʇɐıɔǝɹddɐ 939 ʇǝʞɔos ǝɥʇ[/url]


----------



## Blitz6804

So... gonna pass that over? *Steals Hueristic's bottle.* Maybe now I can has patents write gooder.


----------



## thlnk3r

Pio, I hope all goes well for you and that you eventually fine yourself a new job.

Good luck buddy









EDIT: Just to let everyone know, I was stable at 3-3-2-5 2T (Orthos 18Hrs, OCCT 1Hr) but apparently according to Company of Heroes my memory wasn't stable. At first I thought the freezes were due to an unstable OC with my processor. In the end it came down to my sub-timings that were causing the game the lockup. So I'm running my timings at 3-3-3-8 2T.


----------



## Blitz6804

We learn yet again that no matter how stable a rig seems synthetically (Orthos, OCCT, S&M), when you throw the video card into the mix, it all falls apart. Have you tried tweaking your subtimings to make 3-3-2-5 stable? What bandwidth do you have for 3-3-2-5 versus 3-3-3-8? Have you tried 3-3-3-5 versus 3-3-2-8?

Good luck.


----------



## TestECull

Synthetic tests: 0.
Video game: 1.


----------



## N2Gaming

me: confused.


----------



## TestECull

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
me: confused.










What happened was an overclock 18 hour stable in Orthos wasn't stable at all once a video game was started, thus proving that Orthos misses things...


----------



## N2Gaming

Oh. thank you for clearing that up for me. I'm tired and probably skimmed right past all that...


----------



## TestECull

lol. 'Tis ok, we all do.








I don't even use Orthos to test for stable. It's fine for temp testing, but it misses things and I want absolute solid. I have my ways, tho.









What do you guys reckon my Manchester can get to? My mobo's awesome, I was able to get a Venice to 2.76ghz pretty easily(Temps kept me from pushing farther tho), a good 600mhz higher than I was susposed to hit a wall at.


----------



## N2Gaming

well i have to at least be orthos stable right other wise it's back to the drawing board... good news, I think I just secured a second bfg card for upgrade to 9800gtoc 512


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
lol. 'Tis ok, we all do.








I don't even use Orthos to test for stable. It's fine for temp testing, but it misses things and I want absolute solid. I have my ways, tho.









Ive found Orthos to not be all that accurate.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
What do you guys reckon my Manchester can get to? My mobo's awesome, I was able to get a Venice to 2.76ghz pretty easily(Temps kept me from pushing farther tho), a good 600mhz higher than I was susposed to hit a wall at.

As for your manchester, are you actually gonna try to use it or just get it to post and run cpuz?
Which venice core did you use? Ive got a 3500+ waiting for a mobo to get tested on. (Dont feel like taking my sig rig apart anymore).


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Ive found Orthos to not be all that accurate.

As for your manchester, are you actually gonna try to use it or just get it to post and run cpuz?
Which venice core did you use? Ive got a 3500+ waiting for a mobo to get tested on. (Dont feel like taking my sig rig apart anymore).

I have a 3500+ venice that I delided a week or two ago.


----------



## TestECull

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Ive found Orthos to not be all that accurate.

As for your manchester, are you actually gonna try to use it or just get it to post and run cpuz?
Which venice core did you use? Ive got a 3500+ waiting for a mobo to get tested on. (Dont feel like taking my sig rig apart anymore).


3800+. Stepping: LEBBE.

I also demand all my overclocks be more solid than the Rock of Gibraltar. :\\ I don't like unstable hardware, reliability is as crucial as performance. lolol.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I have a 3500+ venice that I delided a week or two ago.









Thats kinda my plan with this one, practice







. So if I flub it up I wont be disappointed. Now my optys on the other hand if those things got messed up Id


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


3800+. Stepping: LEBBE.

I also demand all my overclocks be more solid than the Rock of Gibraltar. : I don't like unstable hardware, reliability is as crucial as performance. lolol.


 O I thought it was for that competition, thats what Im gonna try with the venice, get it to post and run cpuz, till it just wont anymore.


----------



## N2Gaming

same here... I'm putting off duing the opty untill I go water cooled... I may not even need to delid it @ that point... I'm still worried that the weight of the heatsink/fan may damage the chip with out the IHS on the chip. I have a feeling the IHS act's like a a load/weight baring shield agains pressure stress etc.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


same here... I'm putting off duing the opty untill I go water cooled... I may not even need to delid it @ that point... I'm still worried that the weight of the heatsink/fan may damage the chip with out the IHS on the chip. I have a feeling the IHS act's like a a load/weight baring shield agains pressure stress etc.


 It very well might, Ill see how they do with the big typhoon on them. I know my temps have been holding me back, if I can get them to stay around 55*c @ full load I bet I could easily break 3ghz with my 180 and get my 165 quite a bit higher. 
Now if I could just get a lanparty Id be all set. And depending on how it does I might just dedicate my sig rig to folding. After a step up to at least 9800GT hybrids. Hopefully if all goes well Id step up to GTX260 216's.

Hey when you ran your mobo test did you up the voltage on the chipset to get it higher? I got to 336 with no voltage increase.


----------



## N2Gaming

No I left the chipset voltage where it was at 1.5v when I hit a wall I stoped pushing the mobo. becuase I felt it was high enough.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


No I left the chipset voltage where it was at 1.5v when I hit a wall I stoped pushing the mobo. becuase I felt it was high enough.



Out of curiosity what'd you get it to? Yours is a lanparty right?


----------



## N2Gaming

I think it was pretty close to what you have listed above somewhere around 330 I don't remember exactely maybe 320 or so...


----------



## BlackOmega

Right on, which version lanparty do you have?


----------



## N2Gaming

Sorry did not answer lanparty question. Yes I have 4 of them...2 of them are lanparty NF4 SLI DR and 2 of them are lanparty UT NF4 SLI DR EXPERT


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Sorry did not answer lanparty question. Yes I have 4 of them...












Holy, you should *donate* one to me


----------



## TestECull

I never popped the top off my Venice. Probably why my temps got to 65C, which is dangerous as hell with 1.65Vcore running through, but I was paranoid as hell about my 700-gram GeminII rocking and annihilating that vulnerable piece of silicon under it, so I never did.

I should probably lap it anyways, then delid both the 4200+ X2 and Venice, lap the Venice's lid and throw it on the X2(Keeping the X2's lid intact incase I need stepping info/part numbers from it). I'd never run a naked die under my cooler, tho, it's far too heavy. :\\

The surface of a GeminII is abysmal, by the way. It looks like someone copypasta spammed the grand canyon on it. So much spooge filling so many gaps...


----------



## N2Gaming

well being as none were donated to me and all but one recently purchased that might be kind of foolish ya think... one of the expert boards is out of commision at the moment and the other exper board is still being tested when ever I get around to it. I bought two expert boards on ebay two seperate sales from the same seller and turns out the boards were pulled from a scrap pile prolly for defective reasons. I pulled some capacitors off of one of the expert boards to repair the damged caps on the other expert board. as far as the sli dr's go they both work fine so far. one I bought brand new 2005 at over $220.00 and the other I just bought on ebay with in a month or so for $18.00+S/H


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
I never popped the top off my Venice. Probably why my temps got to 65C, which is dangerous as hell with 1.65Vcore running through, but I was paranoid as hell about my 700-gram GeminII rocking and annihilating that vulnerable piece of silicon under it, so I never did.

I should probably lap it anyways, then delid both the 4200+ X2 and Venice, lap the Venice's lid and throw it on the X2(Keeping the X2's lid intact incase I need stepping info/part numbers from it). I'd never run a naked die under my cooler, tho, it's far too heavy. :

The surface of a GeminII is abysmal, by the way. It looks like someone copypasta spammed the grand canyon on it. So much spooge filling so many gaps...

Yeah,Ive read that naked chips run 10+*c cooler than with the lid. And when I start getting L1 cache failures around 65* I can almsot guarantee its from voltage migration within the chip, I actually d/led a evalutaion of L1 cache failures, its looks to be some sort of AMD internal proposal. And thats what they said, that once the chip got pretty hot migration was unevitable.


----------



## N2Gaming

So So tired, rubs eye's, good night all...


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
well being as none were donated to me and all but one recently purchased that might be kind of foolish ya think... one of the expert boards is out of commision at the moment and the other exper board is still being tested when ever I get around to it. I bought two expert boards on ebay two seperate sales from the same seller and turns out the boards were pulled from a scrap pile prolly for defective reasons. I pulled some capacitors off of one of the expert boards to repair the damged caps on the other expert board. as far as the sli dr's go they both work fine so far. one I bought brand new 2005 at over $220.00 and the other I just bought on ebay with in a month or so for $18.00+S/H


Well then you might be interested in this
It says the board wont go past post before it shuts down, maybe you can put 2 together and make one decent board?

Well if you wanna sell one of the sli-dr's let me know what youd want for it. Maybe we can work out a deal


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
We learn yet again that no matter how stable a rig seems synthetically (Orthos, OCCT, S&M), when you throw the video card into the mix, it all falls apart. Have you tried tweaking your subtimings to make 3-3-2-5 stable? What bandwidth do you have for 3-3-2-5 versus 3-3-3-8? Have you tried 3-3-3-5 versus 3-3-2-8?

Blitz, well not necessarily. This is the first game that locked up on me in this fashion. The locking/freezing issues with COH are also well known. Fixes as simple as raising the Vdimm have resolved the problems. Weird I know but it's just a quirk in the game. It just happens that my sub-timings were apparently to tight or the game just wasn't happy with them. Nothing is 100% stable so I don't expect my machine to be trouble free









Bandwidth at 3-3-2-5 was 6400 MB/s versus 6000 MB/s at 3-3-3-8. I honestly don't notice any difference on my machine.

Good luck


----------



## HothBase

About heavy coolers and removing lids.
I suppose you could stick some kind of pads on the CPU/HS like the ones on old lidless CPUs, it might help in supporting the weight.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Well then you might be interested in this
It says the board wont go past post before it shuts down, maybe you can put 2 together and make one decent board?

Well if you wanna sell one of the sli-dr's let me know what youd want for it. Maybe we can work out a deal









OK last post and I'm done for the night. In regards to this I have seen that exact board floating around ebay for about 2 months now. bad chip set would be my guess. I can prolly dig up a response from the original seller before the person who has it now is selling it... Heck I bet you could find the purchase if you look up the all the sellers reviews... ok that's it good night...


----------



## BlackOmega

Im out too g'nite.


----------



## Blitz6804

N2Gaming signing off at 2:10 am? Weak...

It is now 5:17 am here in New York. I am still up writing my paper. Whenever I finish it, I have until Tuesday at 9 am to read 1200 pages so I am prepared for my finals at 9:00-12:30 and 1:00-4:00. (Meaning, I am hoping to get reading done by 9 am Monday. I do not like to do ANY work within 24-hours of a final.)

Thlnk3r, as your best bud and my mentor says, testing testing testing testing testing! You should not admit defeat and increase DIMM voltage, but instead, should tweak with the subtimings to get CoH stable with the better timings. Heck, if your RAM can do it voltage wise, you might be able to get that down to 2.5-3-2-5. That might put you in the 7000 MBps range.

EDIT: Hey, check it out. This post is the fastest possible stock Agena. Get it? Phenom X4 9950? Oh well, guess it is just me.


----------



## TestECull

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Yeah,Ive read that naked chips run 10+*c cooler than with the lid. And when I start getting L1 cache failures around 65* I can almsot guarantee its from voltage migration within the chip, I actually d/led a evalutaion of L1 cache failures, its looks to be some sort of AMD internal proposal. And thats what they said, that once the chip got pretty hot migration was unevitable.


At stock voltage, 65C isn't going to kill it. Run there all day long and be happy as a clam. 1.65V is close enough to causing migration on it's own, when I let it get over 50C it toasted a few transistors. Result: No longer stable at an overclock...I turned it down in time to save it, it still runs stable at stock.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes TestECull, that is correct. Every step you increase the voltage decreases the safe temperature. An 89 W processor draws 66 A at its stock 1.35 V. (From P = I*V => I = P/V) We know then the processor's internal resistance is 20.4 mΩ, assuming a perfect world. (From V = I*R => R = V/I) So, if we increase the voltage to lets say 1.65 V, we can compute the new wattage, that is, 133 W. (From P = I*V = (V/R)*V = V^2/R) Again, this assumes a perfect world, that is, that resistance does not increase as voltage increases.

We could look up what the maximum safe temperature is for a 133 W processor if such a thing existed. Based on the Windsor (at 125 W) having a maximum safe temperature of 63Âº C, I would expect it to be lower still. It would be false science to do what I am about to do, but I am going to do it anyway:

89 W is good to 71Âº C
110 W is good to 65Âº C

Thus, we lose 6Âº C for a gain of 31 W. That is, 5 1/6 W per degree Celsius. From 110 W to 133 W, we gain 23 W. Thus, we expect to lose 4.45Âº C from a 110 W CPU, making our max "safe" temp to be 60.6Âº C.

Again, this is a junk science I am doing here, but I think it would be safe to say that 61Âº C would not be an unreasonable reduction in temperature to prevent damage.


----------



## majakone

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
No they dont, they wear slowly with time and lose pressure. Unless you dont change your oil and the sludge turns into hardened carbon, somehow gets past the screen on the oil pump pickup and gets stuck between the gears causing it to sieze and either grenade the oil pump driveshaft, or just break the gears themselves. Mind you this is exetremely uncommon. Most engines slowly wear down and lose pressure, and people dont notice until pointed out by a tech or the engine quits.
Also certain engines have rubber o-rings between the oil pump and the block, even those dont typically fail. The only way Ive seen those fail is whent he engine was serviced and the tech either didnt replace the o-ring or damaged it upon reassembly.

Thats exactly what I said in not so many words







And the pressure I was referring to when I said that it might not have pressure when it warms up is oil pressure, not crankcase pressure.

I dont think you can test his this way, if I heard correctly its a 94 bonne, which very well could have distributorless ignition (coil packs) and the oil pump is driven off of the crank. (Im not a GM guy so Im not positive about this).So the only way you could test it is by actually cranking the engine. A lot of the newer cars are like this, the oil pump mounts to the front of the engine and goes around the crank, kind of like a timing cover on small block Fords.. There's notches or flat spots on the crank that line up with the inner pump gear. So therefore no drill is going to help you.
I know the method youre talking about, I use it to prime my 302's upon initial startup. The oil pump needs a driveshaft to be done this way.

PS: Im a car nut too, but Im also a Certified mechanic







and soon going to be a certified nursing assistant, then an RN, then a nurse practictioner, and just for kicks and giggles I think Ill go get my personal traing cert too.
























technically your right , but you wouldnt know that until the pressure stops would you?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Hey guys, I appreciate the concern, but we really need to stay on topic. I just wanted to let the guys know of my current situation with my car and why I could buy their 939 parts right now.


----------



## TestECull

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Yes TestECull, that is correct. Every step you increase the voltage decreases the safe temperature. An 89 W processor draws 66 A at its stock 1.35 V. (From P = I*V => I = P/V) We know then the processor's internal resistance is 20.4 mΩ, assuming a perfect world. (From V = I*R => R = V/I) So, if we increase the voltage to lets say 1.65 V, we can compute the new wattage, that is, 133 W. (From P = I*V = (V/R)*V = V^2/R) Again, this assumes a perfect world, that is, that resistance does not increase as voltage increases.

We could look up what the maximum safe temperature is for a 133 W processor if such a thing existed. Based on the Windsor (at 125 W) having a maximum safe temperature of 63Âº C, I would expect it to be lower still. It would be false science to do what I am about to do, but I am going to do it anyway:

89 W is good to 71Âº C
110 W is good to 65Âº C

Thus, we lose 6Âº C for a gain of 31 W. That is, 5 1/6 W per degree Celsius. From 110 W to 133 W, we gain 23 W. Thus, we expect to lose 4.45Âº C from a 110 W CPU, making our max "safe" temp to be 60.6Âº C.

Again, this is a junk science I am doing here, but I think it would be safe to say that 61Âº C would not be an unreasonable reduction in temperature to prevent damage.


I don't see how your science is false, tho. It's the next logical step to plot the two known temps on a graph, put a straight line through them and get a rough guesstimate of where our theoretical 133W CPU would be, and my findings with my Venice back it up perfectly. It ran fine for two weeks, with an absolute max load temp of 55C, but when I took it to another house with a 'normal' ambient of about 21C, it loaded at 65C and it started to degrade within hours. Fits the graph your equations put in my head quite nicely.


----------



## Blitz6804

It is junk science because I am only using two data points and guessing what the processor's internal resistance is. In order to make a statistically accurate trend line, I would need no fewer than fifty or so points. (And yes, if we go very crudely, you can in fact make a point/slope line such that you can determine what the theoretical maximum temperature of any CPU is.) Further, I am under the impression that the relationship is not linearly converse, but some second-order equation. This throws a wrench into the whole system. However, using it as a linear system might be safer than using the second order equation as it might predict a lower safe temperature than is actually true. (Then again, depending where on the parabola it is, it may be predicting higher.)

This of course has interesting applications for owners of "golden chips." Theoretically, you could lower the wattage making your maximum temperature go higher. If your CPU could run with the reduced voltage, you might actually be able to clock higher than at stock voltage if you are someone who has an insane ambient or poor case flow.

I am glad to see at least one case where my theory was reduced to practice. I am very unhappy that you had to lose your Venice to prove it.


----------



## majakone

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


It is junk science because I am only using two data points and guessing what the processor's internal resistance is. In order to make a statistically accurate trend line, I would need no fewer than fifty or so points. (And yes, if we go very crudely, you can in fact make a point/slope line such that you can determine what the theoretical maximum temperature of any CPU is.) Further, I am under the impression that the relationship is not linearly converse, but some second-order equation. This throws a wrench into the whole system. However, using it as a linear system might be safer than using the second order equation as it might predict a lower safe temperature than is actually true. (Then again, depending where on the parabola it is, it may be predicting higher.)

This of course has interesting applications for owners of "golden chips." Theoretically, you could lower the wattage making your maximum temperature go higher. If your CPU could run with the reduced voltage, you might actually be able to clock higher than at stock voltage if you are someone who has an insane ambient or poor case flow.

I am glad to see at least one case where my theory was reduced to practice. I am very unhappy that you had to lose your Venice to prove it.


----------



## pez

Oh noez, I got to this page and had to stop reading everything. The posts were too long lol. On the bright side, we're almost at 1k pages







.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Oh noez, I got to this page and had to stop reading everything. The posts were too long lol. On the bright side, we're almost at 1k pages







.


I know, I was feeling the same way! Thank bob you came through and shortened up the average posts on this page!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
N2Gaming signing off at 2:10 am? Weak...

It is now 5:17 am here in New York. I am still up writing my paper.

Thank you for pointing out my flaws... I just love constructive criticism, especially when it comes from an eloquently astute verbiage twister such as your self
...


----------



## Blitz6804

You are welcome N2Gaming.

So Pioneer, should I start writing my dissertation on the quantum tunneling effect as regards to power supplies up in here?


----------



## TestECull

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
It is junk science because I am only using two data points and guessing what the processor's internal resistance is. In order to make a statistically accurate trend line, I would need no fewer than fifty or so points. (And yes, if we go very crudely, you can in fact make a point/slope line such that you can determine what the theoretical maximum temperature of any CPU is.) Further, I am under the impression that the relationship is not linearly converse, but some second-order equation. This throws a wrench into the whole system. However, using it as a linear system might be safer than using the second order equation as it might predict a lower safe temperature than is actually true. (Then again, depending where on the parabola it is, it may be predicting higher.)

This of course has interesting applications for owners of "golden chips." Theoretically, you could lower the wattage making your maximum temperature go higher. If your CPU could run with the reduced voltage, you might actually be able to clock higher than at stock voltage if you are someone who has an insane ambient or poor case flow.

I am glad to see at least one case where my theory was reduced to practice. I am very unhappy that you had to lose your Venice to prove it.


I didn't exactly lose it. All I lost was the ability to overclock it. At stock settings, it seems to still be stable and useable.


----------



## N2Gaming

Blitz before you begin your power supply essay... Do you know if some power supplies are not good for certain mobo's.

Example 620HX paired w/M2N32... Darn board keeps freezing and not posting after I shut it off and try to turn it back on... I noticed one of the 24 pin atx power pins is missing and was wondering if it made a difference. 5th pin in

Also does it make a difference for grounding, if I use the little red paper washers on the screws to mount the mother board to the mobo tray...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


You are welcome N2Gaming.

So Pioneer, should I start writing my dissertation on the quantum tunneling effect as regards to power supplies up in here?


If you really want to







. I will attempt to read it, but you know how well I cope with big words.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Blitz before you begin your power supply essay... Do you know if some power supplies are not good for certain mobo's.

Example 620HX paired w/M2N32... Darn board keeps freezing and not posting after I shut it off and try to turn it back on... I noticed one of the 24 pin atx power pins is missing and was wondering if it made a difference. 5th pin in

Also does it make a difference for grounding, if I use the little red paper washers on the screws to mount the mother board to the mobo tray...


As far as PSU's pairing with motherboards...
USUALLY a good power supply will power any motherboard. And usually a cheapo PSU is a bad idea. We know this. However the only time that I personally know of where PSU's are "incompatible" is with certain DFI motherboards. However your motherboard may or may not be picky as to which PSU it wants. Each individual part is going to be different from the next. So there's really no telling if yours is "compatible" without doing the proper testing.

Your grounding question....
On my really good high end builds (AKA The Beast and The Beast Pt. 2 in my rigs lists), I tend to use the little paper washers you refer to. I do it because they are there for me to use. However if I'm just throwing together a quick rig (AKA my two HTPC builds and my guest gamer), I tend to not use those washers as they are quite a pain for my fingers to grasp. From my experience...it really makes absolutely no difference if you use them or not. Just so long as you're not shorting out the motherboard with standoffs, you're okay.


----------



## N2Gaming

PIO, thank you. I'll try another power supply as a last ditch effort before calling ASUS tomorrow to give them an ear full of my opinion on there ability to get repairs done correctly... Two RMA's on the same board in less then a month and they only returned a very unstable board. One of which may possibly be damaging my other componants.














Angry and sad...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Thlnk3r, as your best bud and my mentor says, testing testing testing testing testing! You should not admit defeat and increase DIMM voltage, but instead, should tweak with the subtimings to get CoH stable with the better timings. Heck, if your RAM can do it voltage wise, you might be able to get that down to 2.5-3-2-5. That might put you in the 7000 MBps range.

Blitz, thanks for the suggestion but I've already tested at 2.5-3-2-5. Even with increased voltage it's iffy. It may or may not pass memtest and if it does, my machine immediantely locks up in the OS. Besides, my memory has never been happy with a VDimm increase. Trust me I've played with this memory enough to know it's limitations and even temperatures. At 2.6 VDimm I was getting close to 48C. Hynix D5's are boring to work with









Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


(From P = I*V => I = P/V) (From V = I*R => R = V/I) (From P = I*V = (V/R)*V = V^2/R)



Im assuming that v=voltage, r=resistance, but what is I and P?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Im assuming that v=voltage, r=resistance, but what is I and P?


BlackOmega, "_I_" is current (ie. amperage) and "_P_" is power (ie. wattage). Pretty sure that is correct









Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes; that is the correct variable assignment.


----------



## N2Gaming

Dang it, :swearing: I just missed THIS deal by a few dollars. prolly better off w/out em any way. half of them are prolly bad any how...


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Yes; that is the correct variable assignment.


 OK so how do you possibly get temps from that? I mean what would the equation be, because temp gains are definitely not linear.


----------



## Blitz6804

I cant BlackOmega; this is why I said it was junk science.

Are there any doctors in here? I am freezing all day and cannot warm up despite wearing more clothes and turning the heat up. *Shivers.*


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I cant BlackOmega; this is why I said it was junk science.

Are there any doctors in here? I am freezing all day and cannot warm up despite wearing more clothes and turning the heat up. *Shivers.*


 You need to go move around a bit and get your blood pumping








Hell run in place for a minute.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Dang it, :swearing: I just missed THIS deal by a few dollars. prolly better off w/out em any way. half of them are prolly bad any how...


Wow! If only I had money :swearing:.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Wow! If only I had money :swearing:.

tell me about it. I was thinking i could split em up and sell 4 to 6 of them ang keep the best set for free...







but i put mt spending limit @ 150.00 placed bid with 7 seconds to go and instantly was outbid. it was not meant to be...


----------



## pez

Ok, have a small question about my mobo. I know I can replace my 40mm chipset fan, but the trouble is, I can't find one that people say that aren't loud. And my current one is pretty noisy. I guess a heatsink would work for it, but you guys have any ideas?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Ok, have a small question about my mobo. I know I can replace my 40mm chipset fan, but the trouble is, I can't find one that people say that aren't loud. And my current one is pretty noisy. I guess a heatsink would work for it, but you guys have any ideas?

I don't know for sure where you chipset cooler is located at on your specific board. But, I have heard great things about the Thermalright HR-05 and HR-05 SLI. I'm sure one of those two would most likely fit.


----------



## Choggs396

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Ok, have a small question about my mobo. I know I can replace my 40mm chipset fan, but the trouble is, I can't find one that people say that aren't loud. And my current one is pretty noisy. I guess a heatsink would work for it, but you guys have any ideas?

As Pioneer mentioned, the HR-05 SLI is a great chipset cooler. The IFX Version is designed to accept 1 or 2 80mm fans of your choice.

If you don't have room for such a cooler, you could try this SilenX copper chipset cooler. It comes with a 14dB rated fan.

You could also go the mod route and get this standalone Enzotech cooler, and mount your own fan with either screws or possibly superglue. Directron has a good selection of smaller fans in which you could use. Keep in mind the heatsink I linked to is 36x36mm.

Here's another chipset cooler from Zalman with movable mounting pieces, which you could possibly mount a fan to.

EDIT: Make sure those heatsinks will fit on your board properly, I think they will but I'm not positive.


----------



## Blitz6804

I personally have installed that SilenX cooler on my Dad's Abit IC7-G. (Socket 478 with Intel 875 NB.) It works well; cools better than the stock cooler (which was dead) and is quieter. The question if it will fit with your PCI-E slots. You may need to run it fanless. I have heard great things about the Enzotech; Dragoon is using one to cool his Atom in his HTPC. Again though, modifications might be required for this board. The HR-05 SLI may or may not fit; find which board yours most resembles and check the compatibility tables online.

EDIT: Looking at your board, your best bet will likely be the SilenX provided that your primary video card does not have too long of a shroud. The HR-05/HR-05-SLI (and their modern replacements HR-05-IFX/HR-05-ITX/SLI respectively) will likely not fit.








(Image copyright PC-Facile)


----------



## pioneerisloud

The HR-05 SLI will fit that board. That board has the exact same layout as Froggy's MSI K8N-Neo4 SLI...and the HR-05 SLI was confirmed to fit by Thermalright themselves.


----------



## Blitz6804

In SLI configuration of two 9800 GTs?


----------



## N2Gaming

I'm gonna get out and go to the movies and see THIS with my GF... Have a nice day all you s939'ers...


----------



## N2Gaming

Uh change of plans got to late for her and she don't want to go now. so it's like this and like that and like this and uh "snap doogy doog"...









So I'm making the best of it and working on my ghetto modding skills while working on BNBB...


----------



## BlackOmega

Well it looks as though I won a DFi lanparty ultra-D with a thermalright xp120 cooler and fan (looks like a panaflo) off of ebay... I was certain I wouldnt win. LOL!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well it looks as though I won a DFi lanparty ultra-D with a thermalright xp120 cooler and fan (looks like a panaflo) off of ebay... I was certain I wouldnt win. LOL!










Yeah!!!



































:s niper:




























Way to go man... Is THIS the board that you won? I have been watching it for a coulple of days now... congrats...


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
I have my ways, tho.









*This should give you old timers a laugh*








The absolute best test I used to use in the old days was to spark up doom under win 3.11 and let it run all night! If you could even get doom to run under windows you were doing good!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
*This should give you old timers a laugh*








The absolute best test I used to use in the old days was to spark up doom under win 3.11 and let it run all night! If you could even get doom to run under windows you were doing good!









WOW...







hey Hueristic, how do you test with a game. do you just start the game and leave the computer alone or is there a switch that you have to enable inside the game that will allow the game to run like it's in a demo mode?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


*This should give you old timers a laugh*








The absolute best test I used to use in the old days was to spark up doom under win 3.11 and let it run all night! If you could even get doom to run under windows you were doing good!










Yeah, in the good ol' days with Windows 98 and my first Pentium II (233MHz overclocked to 333MHz), my stability test was running Quake. Good ol' DOS Quake I. I miss that game. I tried to play it a while ago on my sig rig with Vista.....yeah, its just not the same anymore now that I'm used to using a mouse







.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


WOW...







hey Hueristic, how do you test with a game. do you just start the game and leave the computer alone or is there a switch that you have to enable inside the game that will allow the game to run like it's in a demo mode?










Automatically goes into demo mode in doom if you don't make menu selections.

Most newer games you have to run a command from console like "timedemo demo1 /usecache" or some such thing can't remember right now.


----------



## N2Gaming

ok I'm sure some one has a few games they could tell me how to do it on... How about you pez? you have crysis... is that a good game to benchmark with?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


ok I'm sure some one has a few games they could tell me how to do it on... How about you pez? you have crysis... is that a good game to benchmark with?


Crysis does make quite the great benchmark







. If you have the ability to actually play it too....I do recommend it (if you're into that sort of game).


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Crysis does make quite the great benchmark







. If you have the ability to actually play it too....I do recommend it (if you're into that sort of game).


 I have not play'd it in a while. do you know how to make it run in demo mode on it's own???


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I have not play'd it in a while. do you know how to make it run in demo mode on it's own???


You could just set the benchmark utility to run X amount of runs? I believe there's also an option to set it to unlimited (until you stop it).


----------



## N2Gaming

Ok I'll try to find the benchmark utility... Thnx


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Yeah!!!



































:s niper:




























Way to go man... Is THIS the board that you won? I have been watching it for a coulple of days now... congrats...


 Nope, it was this one.

Got it for $80 shipped not a bad deal IMO for the board plus the heatsink. Funny thing is I totally forgot I even bid on that item







had to cancel my other bids, lol.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hm... I never saw that one... must have slipped through the cracks some how...







looks like the pcie 16x slot was not used


----------



## BlackOmega

Well its got 2 Maybe you can use the lower slot as the primary? I think it has to do with the jumper config, from what I gather you can route it so each slot has a certain amount of bandwidth. Ill have to check it out further when it shows up.


----------



## thlnk3r

In regards to the Thermalright HR-05-SLI cooler question...I have that on my DFI SLI-DR board and I've ran into several clearance issues. Everthing from the top of the video card (PCB) touching the bottom clamp from my SI-128 not fitting because of the braces. It's a nice cooler as Chogg's suggested but it can be a pain sometimes. I switched the mounting hardware with screws, nuts and some washers. Bolting it down made it more secure.

Hope that helps to whomever is wondering


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


In regards to the Thermalright HR-05-SLI cooler question...I have that on my DFI SLI-DR board and I've ran into several clearance issues. Everthing from the top of the video card (PCB) touching the bottom clamp from my SI-128 not fitting because of the braces. It's a nice cooler as Chogg's suggested but it can be a pain sometimes. I switched the mounting hardware with screws, nuts and some washers. Bolting it down made it more secure.

Hope that helps to whomever is wondering










thlnk3r, could we bother you with a request for pictures of your SI-128 mount?









Thanks, buddy!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


thlnk3r, could we bother you with a request for pictures of your SI-128 mount?









Thanks, buddy!


 Lol I was just gonna ask em the same thing


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Lol I was just gonna ask em the same thing










Dangit...I was staying up just to get the 10,000'th post







.

Congratulations to everyone that has been in this club so far! We've made it to over 10,000 posts now!


----------



## N2Gaming

lol snooz & loose


----------



## BlackOmega

YAY 10000th post YAY


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


thlnk3r, could we bother you with a request for pictures of your SI-128 mount?









Thanks, buddy!


Joe, I intend to sometime this week. Time to crack open the ol' dusty parts


----------



## Blitz6804

Fan filters for the win?


----------



## pez

Haha, I just need something that fits where my 40mm fan is. It can't be too high because my card goes just right above it and clears it barely, but enough to conflict w/ it.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Haha, I just need something that fits where my 40mm fan is. It can't be too high because my card goes just right above it and clears it barely, but enough to conflict w/ it.


Pez, check out these fans on svc.com. They seem to be pretty quiet (27dba and 33dba): http://www.svc.com/40x20fans.html. You also have to understand that finding a completely silent 40mm is difficult. Does your motherboard let you control the fan speed on the chipset? You could also volt mod the fan, that may help with sound but would decrease the fans speed.

Good luck

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Fan filters for the win?


Blitz, it's an inside joke between me and joe. I probably clean my case out every other week including each fan blade


----------



## Blitz6804

Paranoia for the win?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I believe you can actually eat inside thlnk3r's computer case, it's so clean.









pez, you could also try using a dedicated fan controller. For my overclocked builds, I find them to be indispensable. I use the Sunbeam Rheobus, a cheap, utterly functional, and bulletproof 5.25" fan controller.

Good luck.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I believe you can actually eat inside thlnk3r's computer case, it's so clean.










Joe, yes that is correct. It's like the floors in the Ferrari factory at Maranello, Italy. Let's not forget about the environmental controls as well


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Paranoia for the win?


Just cause ur paranoid doesn't mean they're not out to get you!









On the fan issue. There is no reason the fan has to sit on top of the sink.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


On the fan issue. There is no reason the fan has to sit on top of the sink.










Hueristic, a passively cooled chipset is an option but the nForce4 can get really warm especially under full load. I'm looking at his board now and it almost seems like there would be enough room for an aftermarket cooler. A Thermalright HR-05-SLI would certainly fit.

Good luck


----------



## pez

Well I would be fine with just a lone heatsink. The only fan control is for the CPU fan b/c the 40mm fan connection is a 3-pin and not 4 pin for the fan control. It's not really that big of a deal, the fan when the computer is first turned on though goes to full rpm and is loud. The only other fan that's loud is the front 120mm. I'm only going to get a fan controller if I can find one that will go in place of my floppy drive and has connections for molex fans.


----------



## Blitz6804

He could be onto something Thlnkie. What if Pez got something like the Zalman or Enzotech, dremled it to fit under the video card PCB, then put an 80mm fan up next to it. Then the air blows across the heatsink instead of straight down onto it.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


He could be onto something Thlnkie. What if Pez got something like the Zalman or Enzotech, dremled it to fit under the video card PCB, then put an 80mm fan up next to it. Then the air blows across the heatsink instead of straight down onto it.


----------



## BlackOmega

Ok so my Big Typhoon finally showed up 11 days later







Anyway, you guys think I should mount it with the supportive bracket on the back or mount it where the stock retainer bolts to the board?
Im kind of inclined to mount it using the back mounted support bracket, what do you guys think?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Ok so my Big Typhoon finally showed up 11 days later







Anyway, you guys think I should mount it with the supportive bracket on the back or mount it where the stock retainer bolts to the board?
Im kind of inclined to mount it using the back mounted support bracket, what do you guys think?


if it's a heavy sink you may want to install added mobo support on the back if your board does not have any...


----------



## Blitz6804

I am all about the overkill... use the best possible bracket you have. A custom backplate is a plus. A bolt-down is another plus. (I hate clamps.) If you want a little more pressure with a bolt down, it is easy to shim.


----------



## pez

Hmm I don't have a dremel. You guys know of any heatsinks that are already shortened? I'll need to check exactly how much clearance I have. I think my fan is about in the same position and the same size as the pic you posted, blitz.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah Pez, it should be. The picture I posed is of a Biostar nForce4 SLI-A9.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Ok so my Big Typhoon finally showed up 11 days later







Anyway, you guys think I should mount it with the supportive bracket on the back or mount it where the stock retainer bolts to the board?
Im kind of inclined to mount it using the back mounted support bracket, what do you guys think?

BlackOmega, TheInformationator did a interesting mod with velcro to help securely fasten the Big Typhoon. Check it out here. Scroll down to post #2. Perhaps that may be of some use.

Pez, does the second PCIe slot allow for a single video card?

Good luck guys


----------



## txtmstrjoe

BlackOmega, I'm one of those diehard Big Typhoon fans (pun not intended). The stock mounting method (the H-Bracket) works great with the A8N32-SLI Deluxe. It's such a great retention mechanism, I've used it on a non-Thermaltake heatsink (my Thermalright SI-128SE is kept in place by the H-Bracket).

If you'll be using this for one of your recently-won DFIs, this should be fine, as the DFI has a fairly robust backplate.

If you're dissatisfied for whatever reason, of course, just test-fit everything first (sans TIM) then go with the method you feel is best.

And don't be like Blitz: One neurotic S939 who doesn't know how to KISS things is all I can handle, to be perfectly honest.


----------



## Blitz6804

thlnk3r: His board is an SLI. He is getting another 9800 GT for Christmas.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 

And don't be like Blitz: One neurotic S939 who doesn't know how to KISS things is all I can handle, to be perfectly honest.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
thlnk3r: His board is an SLI. He is getting another 9800 GT for Christmas.

would a dfi nf4 chipset fan work for him... It Could give him the clearance for SLI but maybe not cool it as much as he desires...


----------



## MjrTom

Anyone else managing to get decent performance out of their S939 systems when running GTA4?

My system is really struggling


----------



## Blitz6804

GTA4 JUST came out with a patch. Today I think.

See here.


----------



## MjrTom

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


GTA4 JUST came out with a patch. Today I think.

See here.


OK cheers









Will go give it a try but not holding my breath...


----------



## HothBase

Cool, I didn't know...
My textures are messed up, lol... It's playable though. I'll see if this fixes anything.
I just don't get it. The game looks worse than Mass Effect yet I have less than 1/2 of the FPS.


----------



## MjrTom

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


Cool, I didn't know...
My textures are messed up, lol... It's playable though. I'll see if this fixes anything.
I just don't get it. The game looks worse than Mass Effect yet I have less than 1/2 of the FPS.


Yeah really not impressed so far. I might be being nostalgic but bring back the days when computer games were actually written for the PC instead of trying to shoe horn console games onto the PC platform...

Looks good and dont seem to get any texture issues but just really low fps to the extent that its like a powerpoint slide show...

I am really trying to resist the temptation to upgrade because for all other applications this system seems to perform flawlessly.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


would a dfi nf4 chipset fan work for him... It Could give him the clearance for SLI but maybe not cool it as much as he desires...










N2Gaming, the cooler on the DFI nForce4 chipset isn't great but it gets the job done.

A simple low profile chipset cooler replacement should resolve the problem.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


Cool, I didn't know...
My textures are messed up, lol... It's playable though. I'll see if this fixes anything.
I just don't get it. The game looks worse than Mass Effect yet I have less than 1/2 of the FPS.


Hothbase, there is quite a few bug/issues with the PC release. Apparently the missing texture issues are being blamed on "corrupt" display drivers. I find that very suspicious. One work around for Vista owners was the installation of MS .NET 3.5 framework. Sounds like not enough testing was performed before the game came out.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, the cooler on the DFI nForce4 chipset isn't great but it gets the job done.

A simple low profile chipset cooler replacement should resolve the problem.

Hothbase, there is quite a few bug/issues with the PC release. Apparently the missing texture issues are being blamed on "corrupt" display drivers. I find that very suspicious. One work around for Vista owners was the installation of MS .NET 3.5 framework. Sounds like not enough testing was performed before the game came out.

Good luck


In my experiance the chipset fan on the dfi's last a good while as long and you keep em clean and clean them properly... mening dont let the fan spin when you are cleaning it...

bummer about the game issue... hopes ya get resolves...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


In my experiance the chipset fan on the dfi's last a good while as long and you keep em clean and clean them properly... mening dont let the fan spin when you are cleaning it...


N2Gaming, I'm speaking in terms of cooling. The video card(s) are right there so it's difficult to get air flowing especially if there is a dead spot. I had a single video card and the stock cooler was only capable of keeping the temperatures down to 58C.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

I was going to ask you about the dfi temps... I use everest and ITE-SG to monitor my temps. However recently since I got smart guardian working again I noticed the two sofwares report the same temps for different chips... one has the cpu as mobo and vise versa... is there a way to figure out which one is correct... I would think that SG is reporting the correct info as it was what shipped with the board brand new...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I was going to ask you about the dfi temps... I use everest and ITE-SG to monitor my temps. However recently since I got smart guardian working again I noticed the two sofwares report the same temps for different chips... one has the cpu as mobo and vise versa... is there a way to figure out which one is correct... I would think that SG is reporting the correct info as it was what shipped with the board brand new...


N2Gaming, what version of Everest are you running. The motherboard temperature and cpu (not core0 and core1) display about the same results for me.This is within Everest. Have you done any comparisons in the BIOS? What is the motherboard temperature reporting in Everest?

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Oh wow... I feel a little better about being patient and not grabbing GTAIV as soon as it came out. I had told my sister that I was tempted to do so (she and I are very avid fans of the GTA series, and since we don't have either a PS3 or a XBox 360, I thought the PC version was our ticket).

Hopefully, the PC version will become good after enough patches. When the price drops happen, then I'll reconsider getting the game.









Good luck to you, MjrTom and HothBase.


----------



## N2Gaming

I have the game on ps3 from ebay







and only play'd about 3 days of it... My memory is bad and driving around town get's me all turned around and lost easy... so it makes it hard to follow my objectives.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, what version of Everest are you running. The motherboard temperature and cpu (not core0 and core1) display about the same results for me.This is within Everest. Have you done any comparisons in the BIOS? What is the motherboard temperature reporting in Everest?

Good luck


ok im using 4.5 and 4.6 everest ulitmate trial untill I get everything situated and purchase the soft ware. here is what I get from the two seperate programs

SG 
system = 29c "this one fluctuates from 28 to 31"
panel = 29c
cpu = 41c "this one reads the same as the north bridge below"

EU 
mobo = 29c
cpu = 29 c "this one fluctuates & reads same with system listed above"
core 1 = 26
core 2 = 36
North Bridge = 41c "this one reads the same as the cpu above"

I have not tried looking in my bios yet...Edit: the bios shows everest for having the correct readings.


----------



## majakone

Didnt we just discuss cooling the DFIs north bridge afew pages back







and the high temps caused by running SLI?


----------



## BlackOmega

Any of you guys try the SLI mod on the NF4 chip?


----------



## N2Gaming

Erm I'm working on why the two aps report temps differently... As far as what was discussed a few pages back I don't remeber if this was covered or not...

So I looked into the bios turns out everest is reporting the temps correctly not smart guardian. SG does not have an option to change what chip it reprts... oh well

Does evererest have a start up feature that will allow you to set an alarm like in Smart Guardian and have it start up automatically when you boot into windows...?


----------



## HothBase

Hey, I just saw the new Christmas off-site roster.
That's pretty cool, blitz


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


In my experiance the chipset fan on the dfi's last a good while as long and you keep em clean and clean them properly... mening dont let the fan spin when you are cleaning it...

bummer about the game issue... hopes ya get resolves...


This will help you with all the MB testing. I went to the bank today to deposit some money to get one but got there too late.









If you guys get them leave one for me.







I'll try to get to the bank again tomorrow.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=150313426105


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Yeah Pez, it should be. The picture I posed is of a Biostar nForce4 SLI-A9.


Yeah, but the fan on mine looks a tad different.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, TheInformationator did a interesting mod with velcro to help securely fasten the Big Typhoon. Check it out here. Scroll down to post #2. Perhaps that may be of some use.

Pez, does the second PCIe slot allow for a single video card?

Good luck guys











Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


thlnk3r: His board is an SLI. He is getting another 9800 GT for Christmas.


^^ what he said. I'm going to be going SLI, so that's why I was asking.

The good news is: It's a good thing I have a single slot card, or I wouldn't have the option of one of those heatsinks. The pinkish/copperish colored one seemed like it would actually be fine. It screws on by diagonal holes and the only thing that's close to the fan actually is the capacitors on the card. The second actually shouldn't be a problem at all. I'll see if I can't find a pic of a good angle of it.

EDIT: Can't find one, but will take one in a while. Not feeling it today.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


This will help you with all the MB testing. I went to the bank today to deposit some money to get one but got there too late.









If you guys get them leave one for me.







I'll try to get to the bank again tomorrow.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=150313426105


hey this thing looks like it could be of use some how... does it come w/user manual and codes for reading errors? I would like to be able to test all my mobo's. So if you have a pcie board does this card only work on pci and isa. looks pretty old is there newer tester boards like this one that is updated for pcie x16 slots or is that not neccesary?


----------



## Blitz6804

txtmstrjoe: Do not bother. I am an avid fan of Grand Theft Auto. I have 1 on the PC, 2 on the Playstation, 3, Vice City, and San Adreas on the Playstation2, and Liberty City Stories and Vice City Stories on the Playstation Portable. Then I got Grand Theft Auto 4 for the Playstation3. I do not know what they did to it, but it is not a fun game anymore. One of my biggest complaints is the new physics engine. Apparently, they decided that having arcade physics is a bad thing and swapped driving to a simulation style. Try to pull an e-brake turn? Well, you are going to spin in place until you stop. Just happen to nudge a tree? Well, you are going to flying out the windshield. Try to fire off a gun anywhere in the city? Even on the far end of the beach, with no-one around you, you will instantly get a warning level. Let me tell you, that is NOT simulating NYC at all. Unless that bullet hits someone in NYC, no-one would be bothered calling the police to report shots fired. Not to mention that now there are tolls on the bridges. Steep ones at that.

If I paid for it instead of being a gift, I might be really upset.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


^^ what he said. I'm going to be going SLI, so that's why I was asking.


Pez, I apologize. I'm just trying to throw out ideas for you. I wasn't aware that you were going SLI. Perhaps I missed that post.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey blitz, I just found out from microsoft it's legal to make a back up copy of your OS as long as you have all the legal paper work that came w/the os and stickers, coa key code etc... HOwever I can get a $30.00 replacement disk on line for $30.00 but it would only be 32 bit... So does any know what I'd have to do to make a copy of my disk??


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hey blitz, I just found out from microsoft it's legal to make a back up copy of your OS as long as you have all the legal paper work that came w/the os and stickers, coa key code etc... HOwever I can get a $30.00 replacement disk on line for $30.00 but it would only be 32 bit... So does any know what I'd have to do to make a copy of my disk??


N2Gaming, are you trying to make a copy of the actual operating system CD or a copy of the hard drive? I use Nero 6 at work and have made several copies of Vista Business and XP 32-bit which of course is completely legal. If you want I could always send a inquire to our MS account manager if you have any questions. Send me a PM.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, are you trying to make a copy of the actual operating system CD or a copy of the hard drive? I use Nero 6 at work and have made several copies of Vista Business and XP 32-bit which of course is completely legal. If you want I could always send a inquire to our MS account manager if you have any questions. Send me a PM.

Good luck










thank you.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


BlackOmega, I'm one of those diehard Big Typhoon fans (pun not intended). The stock mounting method (the H-Bracket) works great with the A8N32-SLI Deluxe. It's such a great retention mechanism, I've used it on a non-Thermaltake heatsink (my Thermalright SI-128SE is kept in place by the H-Bracket).

If you'll be using this for one of your recently-won DFIs, this should be fine, as the DFI has a fairly robust backplate.

If you're dissatisfied for whatever reason, of course, just test-fit everything first (sans TIM) then go with the method you feel is best.

And don't be like Blitz: One neurotic S939 who doesn't know how to KISS things is all I can handle, to be perfectly honest.










 I lol'd at your pun, I honestly couldnt remember if the a8n32SLideluxe had a support bracket on the back or not...its been so long since Ive had it out.
So youre saying that that stock backplate should be fine, good to know. Itll make it easier.
And depending on which OC's better, the typhoon will probably wind up on that board.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, TheInformationator did a interesting mod with velcro to help securely fasten the Big Typhoon. Check it out here. Scroll down to post #2. Perhaps that may be of some use.

Good luck guys










 Thanx th|nk3r







, looks like Ill be lapping it before I do anything else with it.

thanx for the help guys


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I lol'd at your pun, I honestly couldnt remember if the a8n32SLideluxe had a support bracket on the back or not...its been so long since Ive had it out.
So youre saying that that stock backplate should be fine, good to know. Itll make it easier.
And depending on which OC's better, the typhoon will probably wind up on that board.


At any rate, it's a bit of a moot point, since the A8N32-SLI Deluxe's backplate simply will not come off without using a combination of brute force and ingenuity. Asus used some kind of adhesive to make sure the backplate doesn't come off without a fight...









I've got half a mind to get a junked A8N32-SLI Deluxe for the specific purpose of learning how to remove that stuck-on backplate. There's no way I'm ripping apart my gaming rig just for that purpose.


----------



## Blitz6804

It is glued on. Using a hair dryer, you should be able to loosen the adhesive. Then use a flat-bladed screw driver to pry it off. (Or so says OcUK. I will not be held liable if this kills the board.)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


*It is glued on. Using a hair dryer, you should be able to loosen the adhesive. Then use a flat-bladed screw driver to pry it off. *(Or so says OcUK. I will not be held liable if this kills the board.)


Uh, isn't this what I said, by and large?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


At any rate, it's a bit of a moot point, since the A8N32-SLI Deluxe's backplate simply will not come off without using a combination of brute force and ingenuity. Asus used some kind of adhesive to make sure the backplate doesn't come off without a fight...









I've got half a mind to get a junked A8N32-SLI Deluxe for the specific purpose of learning how to remove that stuck-on backplate. There's no way I'm ripping apart my gaming rig just for that purpose.










 I havent seen a junked one yet. Here  is the ebay listing of all the a8n32slideluxe boards. Some are still going for close to what they cost new. I paid $190 shipped for mine almost 3 years ago








Everywhere else they were going for 250+shipping. But I bet you could pick one up between 75-100


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I havent seen a junked one yet. Here  is the ebay listing of all the a8n32slideluxe boards. Some are still going for close to what they cost new. I paid $190 shipped for mine almost 3 years ago








Everywhere else they were going for 250+shipping. But I bet you could pick one up between 75-100


I'm obviously biased, but in spite of its imperfections and shortcomings compared to some other boards, the A8N32-SLI Deluxe is a true classic, in my opinion. It's probably still my all-time favorite motherboard.









It's amazing, too, how they seem to be holding their value (on eBay, at least).


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I'm obviously biased, but in spite of its imperfections and shortcomings compared to some other boards, the A8N32-SLI Deluxe is a true classic, in my opinion. It's probably still my all-time favorite motherboard.









It's amazing, too, how they seem to be holding their value (on eBay, at least).


And you'll never have to worry about a northbridge fan going bad either.







there was a guy selling those boards from china or somewhere like that for less then $80.00 buy now but shipping from china... takes for ever and can cost plus I don't trust oversea bidding any way's...


----------



## Blitz6804

Not to say anything bad about PRC, but it may even be a knockoff.


----------



## oneluvballer21

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Not to say anything bad about PRC, but it may even be a knockoff.


A knockoff that works, or doesn't work...? That would be an awful lot of work just to make a knock off... its not like a t-shirt or CD/DVD...

Anyway, to the search for an A8N32-SLI Deluxe, does it have to be a deluxe...? I have a non-function A8N32-SLI non-Deluxe that I'm more than willing to part with... I see no back-plate on it tho.

Oh yeah, do I have to send in the CPU-Z screeny to join...? Or will a post from the Order of the Opterons thread do? Still have the machine running, its just waiting for me to get off my arse and put my new 9800GTX card in it... and with my sig rig now fully functional, I haven't been as motivated. I got a lot of work to do on this one as it is! (I also have a server build waiting for my lazy arse as well! All the parts are here too...)


----------



## Blitz6804

If you have a validation from your time in the Order of the Opteron, I do not see why that would not be sufficient. Found it.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oneluvballer21*


A knockoff that works, or doesn't work...? That would be an awful lot of work just to make a knock off... its not like a t-shirt or CD/DVD...

Anyway, to the search for an A8N32-SLI Deluxe, does it have to be a deluxe...? I have a non-function A8N32-SLI non-Deluxe that I'm more than willing to part with... I see no back-plate on it tho.



The ones from China do look a little different. The heat pipes do anyway, theyre missing the cover that says Asus on it.

And to tell you honestly, I have never seen a non deluxe A8N32sli. I think the only difference was Wifi and non wifi models, IIRC.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I'm obviously biased, but in spite of its imperfections and shortcomings compared to some other boards, the A8N32-SLI Deluxe is a true classic, in my opinion. It's probably still my all-time favorite motherboard.









It's amazing, too, how they seem to be holding their value (on eBay, at least).


Asus rox big time!


----------



## Blitz6804

I have to disagree Hueristic. All three of my Asus boards were duds/lemons. Abit used to be a good company (before they went under) and Gigabyte is sorta between the two. DFI is a nice board with a good balance of features for price, but I have to say, their tech support is TERRIBLE.


----------



## oneluvballer21

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


If you have a validation from your time in the Order of the Opteron, I do not see why that would not be sufficient. Found it.


Damn your quick!


----------



## oneluvballer21

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


The ones from China do look a little different. The heat pipes do anyway, theyre missing the cover that says Asus on it.

And to tell you honestly, I have never seen a non deluxe A8N32sli. I think the only difference was Wifi and non wifi models, IIRC.


My fault, not the 32x.... just the A8N-SLI... my Abit board is the 32x. Oops... so the "Deluxe" question is moot...


----------



## Blitz6804

I try. Joe will add you to the on-site soon, perhaps after he is off the phone with his lady. I will add you to the offsite as soon as my brain recovers from the pain I am about to inflict on it. My Trademarks and Unfair Competition final starts in 8.5 hours. My Evidence final starts in 11.5 hours. Pioneerisloud, DesertRat, Froggy1986, txtmstrjoe: I think I will need to be doing some CoD4 tomorrow night. And yes, I will likely be drinking, big deal.


----------



## BlackOmega

I havent had an issue with any Asus product I have bought. I will say though that the manuals are piss poor at best. Theyre tech support is pretty good on the other hand. All in all I am very pleased with their products. They seem to be lagging behind a bit lately on their mobo's though when comparing them to the new boards put out by Evga for example.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Please welcome oneluvballer21 to our Club!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Pioneerisloud, DesertRat, Froggy1986, txtmstrjoe: I think I will need to be doing some CoD4 tomorrow night. And yes, I will likely be drinking, big deal.


Is that what y'all are gaming on lately?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Please welcome oneluvballer21 to our Club!










WELCOME!


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I have to disagree Hueristic. All three of my Asus boards were duds/lemons. Abit used to be a good company (before they went under) and Gigabyte is sorta between the two. DFI is a nice board with a good balance of features for price, but I have to say, their tech support is TERRIBLE.

Funny years of overseeing It dept's as senior Hardware tech has backed my opinion. Abit is good user level boards. DFI was bottom rung garbage until they went extreme and they are still a niche product. AFA Gigabyte Thier failure rate is far too high.

But for user level experience it looks like you either had VERY bad luck or used bad vendors. And I've never had an issue getting support from Asus.


----------



## thlnk3r

Welcome Oneluvballer21 to the club


----------



## TestECull

I liked my DFI, but I wouldn't reccomend for a nub.

I hated the Asus I had to use, and it actually killed two sticks of ram. Wouldn't reccomend it for anyone

My mom's rig is using a Gigabyte EP35-DS3L, and it's just fine.

I just wish ePox stayed in business. My 9NPAJ+SLI is a good mobo, rock solid and a good overclocker, and the old school green PCB/reference slot colors is a nice retro touch that I happen to like.


----------



## pez

Welcome Oneluvballer21!


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Funny years of overseeing It dept's as senior Hardware tech has backed my opinion. Abit is good user level boards. DFI was bottom rung garbage until they went extreme and they are still a niche product. AFA Gigabyte Thier failure rate is far too high.

But for user level experience it looks like you either had VERY bad luck or used bad vendors. And I've never had an issue getting support from Asus.

Oh, do not get me wrong. Tech support was great; the boards are just bad. My one board was RMAed about 8 times. Every time Asus paid the shipping both ways and the cost of repairs. As to vendors, Treasure Chest PC* (now Insight) replaced my CPU when the Asus set it on fire. I hooked up board, pushed power button, and smoke started rolling out of the case. (Yes, the PC was assembled properly. Asus verified the PWM was faulty. Supposedly, the motherboard tried to give that poor little Athlon XP about 3.5 V...)

I do not know, maybe it could just be the chipsets. The first was a Skt A VIA KT400. That one was RMAed thrice. The second was a Skt A VIA KT600. That set the CPU on fire. They replaced the PWM and sent back. As I said, it was RMAed another 8 times for various problems. (Dead PCI slots, dead IDE headers, dead floppy headers, dead northbridge; you name it, it got it.) I got sick of Asus at this point, so I swapped to Gigabyte. (RMAed twice; once for a dead ethernet/BIOS, a second time for dead ethernet.) Before swapping to PCI-E, I tried my hand at an Asus armed with a KT800. All PCI slots were DOA. Further, it was overvolting the CPU up to 1.410 V, a number I was not comfortable with for 24/7 usage.

At which point, I went to Abit again. (My last venture with them was Slot A; I loved that PC. I think it still lives in my neighbor's basement.) The Abit had a few quirks I had to work through. I finally was getting to like the board when it died. I think it might have gotten shorted with a bad CPU. I have contacted Abit tech support, but since the company has gone under, they never replied to me.

I am now with DFI. Tech support so far is very "meh." You email them a question, they take at least a week to answer you if at all.

*I used TreasureChest PC exclusively until I went Skt 939. Was renamed Insight between my Skt A builds. Then I got some stuff from other vendors. I found Newegg during the lifespan of my 939.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

My one and only experience with a motherboard RMA was when my original A8N32-SLI Deluxe died last year. Asus treated me well; they gave me a brand-new motherboard instead of giving me my old one back.







This second board is still going strong.


----------



## thlnk3r

I did a RMA through MSI for a MSI K8N Neo4 Platinum. The board was completely dead. All I did was pay for shipping from the original seller. I sent it into MSI and $30 later I received a working board. I believe Pioneer has that board now. I'm kind of kicking myself for giving it to him. I think he was able to hit close to 380HTT with it


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


I did a RMA through MSI for a MSI K8N Neo4 Platinum. The board was completely dead. All I did was pay for shipping from the original seller. I sent it into MSI and $30 later I received a working board. I believe Pioneer has that board now. I'm kind of kicking myself for giving it to him. I think he was able to hit close to 380HTT with it


















That's a familiar feeling.

Some dude named thlnk3r has an Opteron 170 that came from me that turned out to be a golden chip...









By the way, guys and doll of the Club, your Club officers are presently in the process of giving the rules package of our Club contest a good examination. (Officers, please check your email if you haven't yet.) Once all the kinks get sorted, we can get the party started in earnest.









Thanks for your continued patience.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
I did a RMA through MSI for a MSI K8N Neo4 Platinum. The board was completely dead. All I did was pay for shipping from the original seller. I sent it into MSI and $30 later I received a working board. I believe Pioneer has that board now. I'm kind of kicking myself for giving it to him. I think he was able to hit close to 380HTT with it









Correction, Froggy has that board







. Pio has nothing to do with it. I am actually forcing her to mount her new cooler, and install my old GPU into it herself (my 8800GTS 512). However yes, Pio was able to hit 375 HTT with it. Don't know if it was stable or not, but it POST'd there, which is more than I can say for my Asus.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Ok, so as it seems, pio is having quite some difficulties with his rig. Yes, that's right, I am referring to myself in the third person now







.

Okay, so here's what I did the past few days with it:

First of all, I pulled my side panel off, and ran my 6800XT (lower power, to see if my PSU was okay). At the same time, I also clocked back to 3.0GHz, and installed my other 2GB of RAM for the time being (DDR333, 3-3-3-8-2T timings). Everything was going great at this point. Rig ran just fine for 3 days straight...no problems. This was a known good overclock, and passed 8 hours of Orthos at one time.

Next, I realized that I was soon to have two 8800GT's. So I figured I'd set up my folding client to be ready for 2 GPU's. So I installed my 8800GTS and my 8500GT into it. However the computer did not like this. After about 5 minutes, it just locked up. It did this several times in a row.

So I thought maybe the 8500GT was bad. So I removed it. In doing so, I had to pull the fan wire out from underneath my 8800GTS and my sound card (fan wire was ran at the back end underneath all cards...that little notch). I fear that I may or may not have loosened a capacitor in doing so, I don't know. However, with the 8500GT removed, the lock ups continued.

So, I thought maybe my side panel being off had something to do with it. So, I put the 8500GT back in, and put my side panel back on. I also noticed that my side panel cathode tube (mounted where the side panel fan is) was rubbing on my CPU cooler. It would move the cooler over slightly, but after it'd get so far...it'd snap back into place. Well, that didn't do it either.

So, I thought maybe this OCZ DDR500 was the problem. It has been noted that it is not compatible with my board anyway. The RAM passes memtest all day long, but it was causing random lock ups before, and instability with Orthos....but it works fine in the MSI K8N. So at this point, I'm only running my Corsair XMS @ DDR333, 3-3-3-8-2T.

In doing the last step, my new GPU PSU and my first 8800GT arrived. As I'm sure you guessed it, I was thinking PSU problems. So I immediately put my PSU and 8800GT in along with my 8800GTS. The problem still persists. However now my side panel cathode will not even fit. The Xigmatek cooler now rubs my side panel window as I slide my door on.

Finally, I gave up. I went back to known good clocks (both PSU's and good GPU's are installed). I went to 2.8GHz with DDR510 @ 2.5-3-3-6-1T. Everything was FINALLLY good.

Next day comes around. I left the machine on all night folding. BSOD when I get to my machine this morning (this was actually yesterday morning). So I think to myself, "What the hell? It was fine for 8 hours last night???" I reset it. Hard drive isn't showing up







. I reset it a couple of times, and finally the hard drive shows back up. This is NOT a quirk with the motherboard, my particular hard drive is known to do this on me. It's got a bad connection inside the drive itself, but it passes Seatools fine. Just every once in a while, it disappears.

So, I finally got my drive working again. I'm booting back into Windows at the clocks it was fine at the night before. After not even 5 minutes, it locks up on me. It continues to do so every time I try to start up!!!

So FINALLY, I am where I am at now. I'm at 2.8GHz, DDR400 @ 2.5-3-3-6-1T. Its been going strong since last night. I left it on and folding on both cores and GPU's. It has been doing so since about 2pm PST yesterday. Also, when I knocked my memory speed down, I also lowered my memory voltage down to 2.75v. Up until THIS POINT, the memory has been running at 2.85v.

So what did I do???? Anybody have any idea where I can go from here, or what I can suggest that may be broken? I cannot get back to 3.0GHz no matter what I do.


----------



## thlnk3r

Pio, I'm assuming you are referring to your signature rig? Are you still running the two power supplies in one system? Have you had chance to grab a multimeter and check the rails to see if they are within spec. If you suspect the PSU then it wouldn't hurt to look into it.

I'm sure others will soon post troubleshooting suggestions.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Ok, so as it seems, pio is having quite some difficulties with his rig. Yes, that's right, I am referring to myself in the third person now







.

Okay, so here's what I did the past few days with it:

First of all, I pulled my side panel off, and ran my 6800XT (lower power, to see if my PSU was okay). At the same time, I also clocked back to 3.0GHz, and installed my other 2GB of RAM for the time being (DDR333, 3-3-3-8-2T timings). Everything was going great at this point. Rig ran just fine for 3 days straight...no problems. This was a known good overclock, and passed 8 hours of Orthos at one time.

Next, I realized that I was soon to have two 8800GT's. So I figured I'd set up my folding client to be ready for 2 GPU's. So I installed my 8800GTS and my 8500GT into it. However the computer did not like this. After about 5 minutes, it just locked up. It did this several times in a row.

So I thought maybe the 8500GT was bad. So I removed it. In doing so, I had to pull the fan wire out from underneath my 8800GTS and my sound card (fan wire was ran at the back end underneath all cards...that little notch). I fear that I may or may not have loosened a capacitor in doing so, I don't know. However, with the 8500GT removed, the lock ups continued.

So, I thought maybe my side panel being off had something to do with it. So, I put the 8500GT back in, and put my side panel back on. I also noticed that my side panel cathode tube (mounted where the side panel fan is) was rubbing on my CPU cooler. It would move the cooler over slightly, but after it'd get so far...it'd snap back into place. Well, that didn't do it either.

So, I thought maybe this OCZ DDR500 was the problem. It has been noted that it is not compatible with my board anyway. The RAM passes memtest all day long, but it was causing random lock ups before, and instability with Orthos....but it works fine in the MSI K8N. So at this point, I'm only running my Corsair XMS @ DDR333, 3-3-3-8-2T.

In doing the last step, my new GPU PSU and my first 8800GT arrived. As I'm sure you guessed it, I was thinking PSU problems. So I immediately put my PSU and 8800GT in along with my 8800GTS. The problem still persists. However now my side panel cathode will not even fit. The Xigmatek cooler now rubs my side panel window as I slide my door on.

Finally, I gave up. I went back to known good clocks (both PSU's and good GPU's are installed). I went to 2.8GHz with DDR510 @ 2.5-3-3-6-1T. Everything was FINALLLY good.

Next day comes around. I left the machine on all night folding. BSOD when I get to my machine this morning (this was actually yesterday morning). So I think to myself, "What the hell? It was fine for 8 hours last night???" I reset it. Hard drive isn't showing up







. I reset it a couple of times, and finally the hard drive shows back up. This is NOT a quirk with the motherboard, my particular hard drive is known to do this on me. It's got a bad connection inside the drive itself, but it passes Seatools fine. Just every once in a while, it disappears.

So, I finally got my drive working again. I'm booting back into Windows at the clocks it was fine at the night before. After not even 5 minutes, it locks up on me. It continues to do so every time I try to start up!!!

So FINALLY, I am where I am at now. I'm at 2.8GHz, DDR400 @ 2.5-3-3-6-1T. Its been going strong since last night. I left it on and folding on both cores and GPU's. It has been doing so since about 2pm PST yesterday. Also, when I knocked my memory speed down, I also lowered my memory voltage down to 2.75v. Up until THIS POINT, the memory has been running at 2.85v.

So what did I do???? Anybody have any idea where I can go from here, or what I can suggest that may be broken? I cannot get back to 3.0GHz no matter what I do.


Start from scratch... remove all your hardward sound card vid card ram cpu etc... unplug PSU & mythodically check all your cap's to see if in fact you did make one get loose or damaged... you can also see if the solder is has broken loose on the back side of the board where the caps are soldered to the board. Then reinstall your componants one by one... if you nudged the cpu heatsink maybe you loosened the TMI... How are your temps... You could Use an eraser on the ram and other pci cards or make sure you have a clean contact before reinstalling them... make sure you have no bugs spider web's or dust making any contact on any metal leads on the board...Don't know if it will help but it could be worth a shot...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pio, I'm assuming you are referring to your signature rig? Are you still running the two power supplies in one system? Have you had chance to grab a multimeter and check the rails to see if they are within spec. If you suspect the PSU then it wouldn't hurt to look into it.

What is the model/serial number of your memory? Is the memory actively or passively cooled? Just FYI not sure if this is the "Gold VX" series memory but that requires 3.3volts (Winbond UTT IC's).

I'm sure others will soon post troubleshooting suggestions.

Good luck










Yes sir, it is my sig rig. Yes I am still running both PSU's. I don't happen to have a multimeter, otherwise I would test that, however Everest reports all rails to be well within spec. Actually, they fluctuate MUCH less now that the power hungry GPU isn't on it, than they did before. My 12v rail...now goes above 12v!! 12.03v idle, 11.74v load. Before it was 11.81v idle, 11.67v load.

As far as memory, the only information that I know on it, is that it is Corsair XMS DDR400. And I know that it WAS 24 hours Orthos stable @ DDR510, 2.5-3-3-6-1T (9/12) before, and that it WAS 24 hours memtest stable @ DDR533, 3-3-3-8-1T (11/14), both runs with 2.85v, which is where its ran at since I have had it. As far as cooling, I don't know which you would call it. I have a 120mm right above them, but it may or may not be hitting the RAM themselves. I was honestly going for more intake to the CPU when I put that in there.


----------



## Hueristic

From what I read I would suspect PS or mem(overheating), IF not those 2 then MB.

This happens with 2 different sets of ram? try 1 chip.

I would definately check out your Ps though. It may be sporadically hiccuping.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


From what I read I would suspect PS or mem(overheating), IF not those 2 then MB.

This happens with 2 different sets of ram? try 1 chip.

I would definately check out your Ps though. It may be sporadically hiccuping.


Does orthos have a graph that will show power rail spikes or dips???


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Yes sir, it is my sig rig. Yes I am still running both PSU's. I don't happen to have a multimeter, otherwise I would test that, however Everest reports all rails to be well within spec. Actually, they fluctuate MUCH less now that the power hungry GPU isn't on it, than they did before. My 12v rail...now goes above 12v!! 12.03v idle, 11.74v load. Before it was 11.81v idle, 11.67v load.

As far as memory, the only information that I know on it, is that it is Corsair XMS DDR400. And I know that it WAS 24 hours Orthos stable @ DDR510, 2.5-3-3-6-1T (9/12) before, and that it WAS 24 hours memtest stable @ DDR533, 3-3-3-8-1T (11/14), both runs with 2.85v, which is where its ran at since I have had it. As far as cooling, I don't know which you would call it. I have a 120mm right above them, but it may or may not be hitting the RAM themselves. I was honestly going for more intake to the CPU when I put that in there.


Pio, for testing purposes have you tried running the system with just one power supply? I understand you may be on a budget but perhaps it's time to think about upgrading to one unit. Something built around quality of course. I wouldn't trust Everest too much. I compared my multimeter results while running Everest and the software results were way off (-/+ .10-.15). That was me though, in your situation it might be different.

When you have time, try finding the model/serial off your memory.

Good luck









Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Does orthos have a graph that will show power rail spikes or dips???


N2Gaming, I don't think so. I believe OCCT has that feature though...


----------



## Blitz6804

Thlnk3r: he just added the second power supply to power the graphics cards solely.

For everyone: Pioneer's XMS RAM is rated for DDR 400, 2-3-3-6-1T @ 2.75 V.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, I don't think so. I believe OCCT has that feature though...

think3r: Oh that's the one... I remember seeing a graph on one of those app's, I just could not remember which one it was... Thank you.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Mkay, I cannot take the whole rig apart without a new case I'm afraid. Broke off all the rivets that hold my motherboard tray in (on the bottom), when installing the second PSU and hiding wires behind it.

Secondly, the second PSU actually HELPED with voltage problems. My 12v rail went up a good 0.2v under idle and load now. Instead of being closer to the lower end of the "okay" range for 12v rails, I'm now very near the higher end of the "okay" range. As far as spikes, this PSU has NEVER spiked. When its idle, it has X volts, when under load, its X volts. And it stays that way. It will vary by 0.05 volts at most.

As far as RAM:
The only set that I have that I know is compatible with this board, is my Corsairs. The OCZ's are great sticks in Froggy's MSI board. But they cause random BSOD's and Orthos errors on my board. However I suppose it COULD be a RAM related issue. Perhaps 2.85v just wasn't safe for these chips??

What about hard drive? Anybody suspect that maybe the hard drive is FINALLY dying on me? I've been needing an excuse to ask for one for Christmas anyway (with the random disappearing act this one has). I haven't ran Seatools on it for a while...but its not making any odd noises to suspect hard drive. But, I suppose it still could be the culprit.


----------



## pioneerisloud

@ everyone trying to help:

Oddly enough, what appears to have been the issue, is switching FROM the 6800XT BACK to my 8800GTS 512. The clocks were the same on both runs, and when I was running the 6800XT, it was fine. When I switched back over to the 8800, that's when the problems arised.

I don't understand WHY this happened, or how? The problem still exists mind you. But looking at my post, that's when the problems happened. Oh, and that was running off ONE PSU still at that time. On KNOWN good 100% stable OC settings.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

pio, did you happen to note what the BSoD code was?

I'm thinking it could be one of several things: Bad power/insufficient power; bad RAM/bad settings; failing motherboard; bad 8800GT; overheating; bad driver installation. Any and/or all of these can cause the lockups you describe.

I'm off to lunch. Hopefully someone can give you the right solution soon.

Good luck.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Thlnk3r: he just added the second power supply to power the graphics cards solely.

Blitz, for testing purposes I just wanted him to try a single PSU. Process of elimination is typically the best approach but thanks for pointing that out.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
@ everyone trying to help:

Oddly enough, what appears to have been the issue, is switching FROM the 6800XT BACK to my 8800GTS 512. The clocks were the same on both runs, and when I was running the 6800XT, it was fine. When I switched back over to the 8800, that's when the problems arised.

I don't understand WHY this happened, or how? The problem still exists mind you. But looking at my post, that's when the problems happened. Oh, and that was running off ONE PSU still at that time. On KNOWN good 100% stable OC settings.

Pio, are you sure that power supply is sufficient enough? If the lowered powered 6800XT works perfectly fine but the more power demanding 8800GTS casuses crashes/locks up doesn't that tell you that the problem may lie with the PSU?

Am I reading their website correctly: http://www.apevia.com/ProductsInfo.a...=ATX-AS500W-GN? Looks like total wattage across the 12volt rails is 280watts which would mean the total 12volt amperage is 23.33amps?

It also probably wouldn't hurt to run a full surface scan on the drive with the Seagate Seatools. Check the Event Viewer as well (Start -> Run, Type "eventvwr.msc").

Let us know

Good luck


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
pio, did you happen to note what the BSoD code was?

I'm thinking it could be one of several things: Bad power/insufficient power; bad RAM/bad settings; failing motherboard; bad 8800GT; overheating; bad driver installation. Any and/or all of these can cause the lockups you describe.

I'm off to lunch. Hopefully someone can give you the right solution soon.

Good luck.









That's just it. It's not giving me a BSOD. It just locks up. The original BSOD was because my hard drive did its random disappearing act.

To answer the above:

Power...could be a problem. But that's why I bought this GPU PSU. And again, my voltages got a LOT better in doing so according to Everest. I suppose the Apevia could still be dying though.
Overheating...How? CPU loads at 52*C, GPU's load at 75/84 respectively. Granted, yes that's a little warm, but supposedly still within the safe range.
RAM settings...one possibility, but can't test currently.
Failing motherboard...god I hope not :/
Bad 8800GT...doubtful. It does this no matter what GPU is installed now.
Driver installation.... I actually dismissed this idea. When switching BACK to my 8800GTS (from the 6800), for some odd reason it installed the latest 180 drivers for me on its own, and these were causing problems for me in the past (same problems actually). I have been stable thus far on the 178.24's, so that COULD have been the issue I suppose??


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz, for testing purposes I just wanted him to try a single PSU. Process of elimination is typically the best approach but thanks for pointing that out.

Pio, are you sure that power supply is sufficient enough? If the lowered powered 6800XT works perfectly fine but the more power demanding 8800GTS casuses crashes/locks up doesn't that tell you that the problem may lie with the PSU?

Am I reading their website correctly: http://www.apevia.com/ProductsInfo.a...=ATX-AS500W-GN? Looks like total wattage across the 12volt rails is 280watts which would mean the total 12volt amperage is 23.33amps?

It also probably wouldn't hurt to run a full surface scan on the drive with the Seagate Seatools. Check the Event Viewer as well (Start -> Run, Type "eventvwr.msc").

Let us know

Good luck

Well, running the 6800XT, it still has the same problems NOW. And yes, the PSU amperage is correct, hence why I bought the GPU PSU. I didn't know this before hand. I thought that I had 34a on the 12v rail...which is PLENTY. Yes, I know NOW that its only 23a, which is when I IMMEDIATELY bought the GPU PSU...bought it out of fear. But I've been running that PSU and the GTS 512 since April with no issues thus far.

And I will run a full surface scan once the posts die down a bit. I'm still trying to get as many ideas as to what I can do, before I go and do it.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Well, running the 6800XT, it still has the same problems NOW. And yes, the PSU amperage is correct, hence why I bought the GPU PSU. I didn't know this before hand. I thought that I had 34a on the 12v rail...which is PLENTY. Yes, I know NOW that its only 23a, which is when I IMMEDIATELY bought the GPU PSU...bought it out of fear. But I've been running that PSU and the GTS 512 since April with no issues thus far.

And I will run a full surface scan once the posts die down a bit. I'm still trying to get as many ideas as to what I can do, before I go and do it.

Pio, have you also tried testing with different memory? I understand this is rudimentary troubleshooting but I'm just making sure you've tried all the options. I'm assuming you're also running at stock clocks for the time being?

I really think you should switch to a single PSU. There are far too many risks running two power supplies in one system.

Good luck


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Pio, have you also tried testing with different memory? I understand this is rudimentary troubleshooting but I'm just making sure you've tried all the options. I'm assuming you're also running at stock clocks for the time being?

I really think you should switch to a single PSU. There are far too many risks running two power supplies in one system.

Good luck









I don't have any other memory to test with currently. However I may or may not have another set soon to troubleshoot with.

Currently, I'm sitting at 2.8GHz, 1.39v...DDR400 @ 2.5-3-3-6-1T (9/12), 2.75v. And its been going strong folding for 24+ hours now. It is EXACTLY as it says in my sig, but with the clocks above (I don't remember off hand the clocks listed in my sig). So as of right NOW, it feels stable. However I am running much more voltage than needed for CPU (2.8GHz only requires 1.225v), and I'm running much slower speed on my RAM with less voltage than before.

As far as PSU, I won't be able to afford a new PSU for a while. As soon as I can afford one, you can bet money on it, that's the first thing getting upgraded. I have my eyes on the Corsair 750w PSU on newegg for roughly $110. But alas, that's $110 I don't have. But that is the first thing on my upgrade list as of now.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Currently, I'm sitting at 2.8GHz, 1.39v...DDR400 @ 2.5-3-3-6-1T (9/12), 2.75v. And its been going strong folding for 24+ hours now. It is EXACTLY as it says in my sig, but with the clocks above (I don't remember off hand the clocks listed in my sig). So as of right NOW, it feels stable. However I am running much more voltage than needed for CPU (2.8GHz only requires 1.225v), and I'm running much slower speed on my RAM with less voltage than before.


Pio, so from what I understand the freezing issues randomly occur? Have you tried everything at stock settings to see if you still have problems?

Good choice on the Corsair 750TX. That should provide plenty of power to your entire system.

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Pio, first things first. Put your rig back to the last known good/stable configuration. That includes removing the 8800's, GPU PSU, and what ever you changed around with the ram. Run it, is it stable? If so proceed to step 2, change memory stick, is it stable? Does x1600xt have a power connector on it? If so, install GPU PSU test for stability. If stable add 8800, check for stability. And so on and so forth. Personally, this is what I would do to try to localize the issue.
And in my experience, Ive only ever had true lock up (no BSOD) issues when there was something wrong with my video cards. Wether it be OC'd too high or I forgot to kick the fan speed up upon start up and it got too hot.

Another thought that crossed my mind, when you used the GPU PSU, since there was less load on your original PSU, maybe it was sending higher voltages through the rest of your components like the RAM, etc. Just a thought, might be unfounded but you never know.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Pio, first things first. Put your rig back to the last known good/stable configuration. That includes removing the 8800's, GPU PSU, and what ever you changed around with the ram. Run it, is it stable? If so proceed to step 2, change memory stick, is it stable? Does x1600xt have a power connector on it? If so, install GPU PSU test for stability. If stable add 8800, check for stability. And so on and so forth. Personally, this is what I would do to try to localize the issue.
And in my experience, Ive only ever had true lock up (no BSOD) issues when there was something wrong with my video cards. Wether it be OC'd too high or I forgot to kick the fan speed up upon start up and it got too hot.

*Another thought that crossed my mind, when you used the GPU PSU, since there was less load on your original PSU, maybe it was sending higher voltages through the rest of your components like the RAM, etc. Just a thought, might be unfounded but you never know.*

Actually, this right here seems to be truthful.

I am now sitting at 3.0GHZ again (with 1.42v..just as a precautionary method). DDR333, 3-3-3-8-2T timings, 2.75v. So far, I've been in Windows for 15 minutes. No lock ups yet.

One thing I noticed...my southbridge was HOTTT. I mean it almost burned my finger when touching it (keep in mind, there is no sensor for this chip on my board). So I turned off ALL of my overvolt options in BIOS.

When I first tried again at 3.0GHz (clocks and voltages I stated above), it locked up within the first 2 minutes. After I rebooted and turned off all of my overvolt options, it FEELS fine thus far.

I will allow it to run for roughly an hour or so at current settings. If there is no lockup, I will proceed to getting my memory back to decent speeds and timings, and lowering CPU voltage. And of course, stressing.

Wish me luck...it seems this may have been the issue alll along. Without my 8800GTS pulling a load from the primary PSU, it put more voltage to my motherboard than I wanted (with overvolt on).


----------



## thlnk3r

Pio, it also wouldn't hurt to run everything at stock for troubleshooting purposes. You could run everything at stock for a few hours and see what happens.

Is the "overvolt" option the same setting that causes issues on Joe's Asus board?

Good luck


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pio, it also wouldn't hurt to run everything at stock for troubleshooting purposes. You could run everything at stock for a few hours and see what happens.

Is the "overvolt" option the same setting that causes issues on Joe's Asus board?

Good luck










The "overvolt" option I am referring to is as follows:

Overvolt CPU - Disabled (has always been disabled)
Overvolt NB - Enabled
Overvolt SB - Enabled
Overvolt HT - Enabled

The once that I have listed as Enabled, are the ones that I just set to disabled. And for the record, its been 45 minutes now. Still going strong. I know, I know...its not "stable" yet. But I'm getting there. Just being "Windows stable" is a bigger accomplishment than you might think right now, as it was locking up in under 2 minutes before.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Alrighty guys, the overvolt options seem to have been the problem! Thank you to everyone that provided input.

Now..onto other business....
Who wants to trade me Opterons? Don't worry, this chip is used, not abused. Its ran at 1.60v VERY shortly for the suicide run in my sig...other than that, it has lived at 2.8GHz, 1.22v...and 3.0GHz, 1.39v its whole life.

What I'm after....
A 10x multiplier or 12x multiplier Opteron that does at least 3.0GHz with 1.41v or less. If anybody decides that I've put this in the wrong place, please just let me know. I'd be more than happy to setup a wanted thread on the marketplace. But I figured this would be the best spot for it







.

EDIT:
I'd also like to mention, I'm after a FUNCTIONAL chip, to replace my FUNCTIONAL chip







. No Blitz, I don't want to trade your dead Toledo for my functional Opteron, lol.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


The "overvolt" option I am referring to is as follows:

*Overvolt CPU - Disabled (has always been disabled)*
Overvolt NB - Enabled
Overvolt SB - Enabled
Overvolt HT - Enabled

The once that I have listed as Enabled, are the ones that I just set to disabled. And for the record, its been 45 minutes now. Still going strong. I know, I know...its not "stable" yet. But I'm getting there. Just being "Windows stable" is a bigger accomplishment than you might think right now, as it was locking up in under 2 minutes before.



How is it that you can change your cpu voltage with this disabled? Ive never been able to. Even if I crank the vcore up its always higher or lower than what I set it, even at idle. (sorry Im bringin this crap up again)








When you manually set your vcore to lets say 1.42v does it actually go there?
Right now I have it enabled and set my vcore to 1.15v, enabled the overvolt and it sits where its supposed to be, well relatively close anyway. 1.36v @ idle and 1.34v @ 100% load, with the occaisonal spike to 1.38v.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


How is it that you can change your cpu voltage with this disabled? Ive never been able to. Even if I crank the vcore up its always higher or lower than what I set it, even at idle. (sorry Im bringin this crap up again)








When you manually set your vcore to lets say 1.42v does it actually go there?
Right now I have it enabled and set my vcore to 1.15v, enabled the overvolt and it sits where its supposed to be, well relatively close anyway. 1.36v @ idle and 1.34v @ 100% load, with the occaisonal spike to 1.38v.


On the A8N32-SLI Deluxe, you can select the CPU Voltage setting without enabling CPU Overvolt. What CPU Overvolt actually does is add .2V to the setting you select.

For example, let's say you need 1.35V. You have two ways to do this. The more stable way that I've found for this board is to simply select *1.35V* from the list of VCore settings in the BIOS, with *CPU Overvolt DISABLED*. The other way (which has always been unstable for me, in both A8N32-SLI Deluxes I've owned) is to *set the VCore to 1.15V, then Enable CPU Overvolt*.

The voltage regulation on this motherboard is, in my opinion, is its weakest part of its feature set. DFIs have always been far superior when it comes to this. I don't quite know if it's a problem with the BIOS controlling the hardware, or if it's a consequence of inferior components (compared to the DFI LANParty UT motherboards).

EDIT: In retrospect, BlackOmega, it seems that you already know this.


----------



## TestECull

joe: Even the Infinitys had suberb voltage regulaton. I adored mine. Even with two major capacitors missing, it was stable enough to use without crashing.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
joe: Even the Infinitys had suberb voltage regulaton. I adored mine. Even with two major capacitors missing, it was stable enough to use without crashing.

Sweet.









I was always curious about those Infinity series DFIs, but never pulled the trigger on one.

Strangely enough, I never seem to see an Infinity series S939 board on eBay at all, but there are always several LANParty UT series boards...


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
On the A8N32-SLI Deluxe, you can select the CPU Voltage setting without enabling CPU Overvolt. What CPU Overvolt actually does is add .2V to the setting you select.

For example, let's say you need 1.35V. You have two ways to do this. The more stable way that I've found for this board is to simply select *1.35V* from the list of VCore settings in the BIOS, with *CPU Overvolt DISABLED*. The other way (which has always been unstable for me, in both A8N32-SLI Deluxes I've owned) is to *set the VCore to 1.15V, then Enable CPU Overvolt*.

The voltage regulation on this motherboard is, in my opinion, is its weakest part of its feature set. DFIs have always been far superior when it comes to this. I don't quite know if it's a problem with the BIOS controlling the hardware, or if it's a consequence of inferior components (compared to the DFI LANParty UT motherboards).

EDIT: In retrospect, BlackOmega, it seems that you already know this.










Hmmm.... Im still wondering if I should RMA this board. It just flat out will NOT set to what I set it to(with overvolt disabled). It always just reverts back to the erroneous 1.39v. Maybe thats why I cant get a good stable OC.


----------



## TestECull

Makes ya wonder, doesn't it...Iono, mine quite nicely immitated the L4D Tank. Tough, damn near impossible to kill and always able to do what I asked of it.

I bought mine a year or two ago on eBay, for about 80 bucks. It was ALWAYS rock solid, wheras both of my friends with Lanparty UT's had constant BIOS issues and random finickeyness. Certain ramsticks wouldn't work in theirs, mine used those sticks just fine, and I'm sure you know about the PSU things. My Infinity never did that.

I did do one mod tho: I used the chipset cooler from a LanParty UT on mine.

I could still get decent OC's with one major cap missing...but when the second somehow got pulled off, it couldn't OC...but it ran fine at stock, so I kept using it.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Sweet.









I was always curious about those Infinity series DFIs, but never pulled the trigger on one.

Strangely enough, I never seem to see an Infinity series S939 board on eBay at all, but there are always several LANParty UT series boards...










Prolly law of averages related to supply and demand... I don't think as many infinities were sold as the experts... Of course we all know that if you purchased a expert new you were most likely going to be pushing it and you definately knew what you were doing when you bought it.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Prolly law of averages related to supply and demand... *I don't think as many infinities were sold as the experts*... Of course we all know that if you purchased a expert new you were most likely going to be pushing it and you definately knew what you were doing when you bought it.


Hmm... don't know about this specific point. A lower-priced product being outsold by an enthusiast-class product? I don't think this ever happens for any product type.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Hmm... don't know about this specific point. A lower-priced product being outsold by an enthusiast-class product? I don't think this ever happens for any product type.










Ok you got a good point that I did not think about but I was thinking that if one own's an enthusiast-class product then one might be more inclined to do things that will cause the enthusiast-class product to fail... does that make better sense or am I barking up the wrong tree???


----------



## oneluvballer21

Pioneer, sounds like you got it solved. As for your PSU choice, it ain't bad, but I can only say this again: PCP&C. Trust me, that Turbo-Cool 850 SSI would be the better choice in your (and most others) situation... it can be had for less, and will give you a lot more. As long as it can fit in your case









EDIT: it powered Maximum PC's 2005 Dream Machine... it ain't no slouch.


----------



## thlnk3r

Pioneer, great job on the troubleshooting. I'm glad it was a simple setting in the BIOS that resolved your issues









In regards to your Opteron processor, try the For Sale section. I'm sure you'll get some hits.

Good luck


----------



## HothBase

Like this one maybe? Opteron 175 - $80 shipped

Edit: Or is 11x no good?


----------



## TestECull

Hey guys...

My current ram is destined for a home in a computer never to be overclocked. As such, I'ma need another good 2GB set.

I've got my eye on This HyperX stick(Obviously I'd buy two sticks), and  This G.skill stick.

Any of ya'll have any other reccomendations for good overclocking, tightly timed DDR400 in that price area(30 bucks/1gb stick max)?


----------



## majakone

Personally I like the Corsair line , Im evaluating these G-Skills {sig} now but so far my PC4000 XMS Corsairs seems to clock higher with more stability , just my opinion


----------



## TestECull

The only DDR500 newegg has is Mushkins...and they're far too expensive.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
Hey guys...

My current ram is destined for a home in a computer never to be overclocked. As such, I'ma need another good 2GB set.

I've got my eye on This HyperX stick(Obviously I'd buy two sticks), and This G.skill stick.

Any of ya'll have any other reccomendations for good overclocking, tightly timed DDR400 in that price area(30 bucks/1gb stick max)?

What are the chips? I'm partial to samsung myself.


----------



## HothBase

What about these mushkin sticks?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


What about these mushkin sticks?


The HP3200 modules uses Infineon memory chips. Exact part number is Infineon HYB25D512800BE-5 ICs. These chips are rated at DDR400 CL 3-3-3. Mushkin somehow managed to squeeze CL 2-3-2 out of these modules.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


The only DDR500 newegg has is Mushkins...and they're far too expensive.


Hey, I know a guy selling a lightly-used kit of those. PM me for info.


----------



## Jacka

44*C at full load.

http://service.futuremark.com/home.a...F8CA711EF636C8


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jacka* 
44*C at full load.

http://service.futuremark.com/home.a...F8CA711EF636C8


What are you using to measure your temps?


----------



## Blitz6804

Nice upgrade from your prior 2563 MHz Jacka. I will upgrade your speed off-site soon.


----------



## Jacka

Everest, Coretemp and HWMonitor.


----------



## Jacka

Here is the CPU-Z Validation for you.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=460475


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
Hey guys...

My current ram is destined for a home in a computer never to be overclocked. As such, I'ma need another good 2GB set.

I've got my eye on This HyperX stick(Obviously I'd buy two sticks), and This G.skill stick.

Any of ya'll have any other reccomendations for good overclocking, tightly timed DDR400 in that price area(30 bucks/1gb stick max)?

I've always had good luck with kingston sticks. I was actually to attain a higher OC with my 4 Hyper-x sticks than with my 2 XMS sticks. Go figure. And even in 2T timings (4 DIMMS)Ican get em really tight, Ive had em run @ 2-2-2-5 before.








But the XMS sticks definitely arent bad, I just gotta do some testing to get running faster, find their sweet spot.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jacka* 
Everest, Coretemp and HWMonitor.


Whats core temp say? And what were you using to load the CPU?


----------



## HondaGuy

I have a AMD 4200+ Socket 939. Im looking at selling it, How much should I be asking?
Thanks


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jacka* 
Here is the CPU-Z Validation for you.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=460475

Yeah; just five minutes too late. *Breaks out notepad again.*


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HondaGuy* 
I have a AMD 4200+ Socket 939. Im looking at selling it, How much should I be asking?
Thanks

$5 shipped to me


----------



## Blitz6804

HondaGuy: A thread in the appraisals section may be more appropriate. Also, we would need to know your desired venue as OCN tends to be cheaper than other sites on the web. That it is a 4200+ (as apposed to a processor with 1024 KB cache) works against you. On OCN, a CPU-Z validation link may not be a bad idea.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
HondaGuy: A thread in the appraisals section may be more appropriate. Also, we would need to know your desired venue as OCN tends to be cheaper than other sites on the web. That it is a 4200+ (as apposed to a processor with 1024mb cache) works against you. On OCN, a CPU-Z validation link may not be a bad idea.

1024mb cache is that a typo?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Roster updated. Good job with that San Diego, Jacka!









Okay. Off to a day full of meetings at work. Yay...

Be good, kids! Play nice with each other.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jacka* 
44*C at full load.

http://service.futuremark.com/home.a...F8CA711EF636C8

Jacka, nice overclock









What do you have the Vcore set to in your BIOS? I have a 3700+ just waiting to be overclocked.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HondaGuy* 
I have a AMD 4200+ Socket 939. Im looking at selling it, How much should I be asking?
Thanks

HondaGuy, as Blitz mentioned you might have better luck posting this in the appraisals section.

If anyone has questions about item sales or items wanted, please keep them all in the For Sale / Wanted section. It also wouldn't hurt to use PM's. Let's keep this thread clean and on topic









Good luck guys


----------



## Blitz6804

No N2Gaming, that is not a typo. *{DUR! YES IT IS!} Denmarks and Toledos have 1024 KB L2 Cache per core. Manchesters and disabled Toledos have 512 KB L2 Cache per core. The 4200+ is of the latter category.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
No N2Gaming, that is not a typo. Denmarks and Toledos have 1024 mb L2 Cache per core. Manchesters and disabled Toledos have 512 mb L2 Cache per core.

OK so mb is the same as KB?


----------



## Blitz6804

Oh... spit... I see the typo. Yes, I meant to say KB... modifying all posts to fix.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Oh... spit... I see the typo. Yes, I meant so say KB... modifying all posts to fix.

Yeah I finally got something right


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, that was a pretty epic error on my part. To the tune of being off by a factor of 2^10.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Yeah, that was a pretty epic error on my part. To the tune of being off by a factor of 2^10.


Do you know how to use the ie spell checker inside a new post screan?


----------



## Blitz6804

I did not even know that IE had a spellchecker. I personally use Fx, though I am having some epic issues* with 3.0.x. I miss 1.0.7! (>_<)

*Firefox 3.0.x on some Vista 64-bit systems will cause repeated Data Execution Prevention errors. DEP cannot be disabled for Firefox.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Manchesters and disabled Toledos have 512 KB L2 Cache per core. The 4200+ is of the latter category.


Blitz, are you referring to the "gimped" Toledos?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


DEP cannot be disabled for Firefox


DEP(data encryption protection) is a Vista option. Why wouldn't you be able to disable it? You can also disable it through the command prompt, just make sure you "Run as Administrator".

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

You can disable it across the entire system yes. Although there is a feature to disable it on a program-by-program basis, it will not let you shut it off for Firefox. It says "this program must run with DEP enabled."

For the record, it is not just a Vista option. It has been a part of Windows since XP SP2.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jacka*


Here is the CPU-Z Validation for you.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=460475

















You got my Mobo too! Now I'm really itching to push this thing! I definately will If I can find a new chip! That Opteron looked good but just outta my pricerange. Feel bad for Hitman having to sell his main rig.







Great price to as far as I can tell.

BTW what kind of cooling are you useing? I have some big Foxconn copper thing.


----------



## TestECull

My 4200+ X2 is a Manny. I gave only 20 dollars for it, but it wasn't presumed to be very healthy. Turned out fine tho.









Also, I got two sticks of that G.skill. The timings are pretty close, I can probably get it to match the Mushkin 2x1GB kit with a slight increase of Vdimm.

About FF and DEP: I've never had those issues...maybe it's because I don't keep my stuff up-to-date unless there's bugfixes I need?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I did not even know that IE had a spellchecker. I personally use Fx, though I am having some epic issues* with 3.0.x. I miss 1.0.7! (>_<)

*Firefox 3.0.x on some Vista 64-bit systems will cause repeated Data Execution Prevention errors. DEP cannot be disabled for Firefox.


My firefox 3.0.4 spell checks auto. it underlined words it doesn't reconize. I don't remember installing anything extra and there is nothing in my addons besides NoScript.

That is the only reason my posts don't look like a 3 year olds.


----------



## Jacka

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
















You got my Mobo too! Now I'm really itching to push this thing! I definately will If I can find a new chip! That Opteron looked good but just outta my pricerange. Feel bad for Hitman having to sell his main rig.







Great price to as far as I can tell.

BTW what kind of cooling are you useing? I have some big Foxconn copper thing.


Scythe Infinity and 5 Yate Loon 2000 RPM fans.


----------



## Jacka

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Whats core temp say? And what were you using to load the CPU?


OCCT, Orthos, Everest Stress tester, etc.


----------



## Jacka

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Jacka, nice overclock









What do you have the Vcore set to in your BIOS? I have a 3700+ just waiting to be overclocked.


1.150 in the BIOS, which should be giving 1.55V with the VCore Mod on the motherboard.


----------



## Blitz6804

Or a 13 year old...

Yeah, Firefox auto spell checks. I was under the impression N2Gaming used Internet Explorer however and was asking about such a feature there. (I think it may be coming with IE8.)

The integrated spell checker is the only reason why my posts here are slightly-intelligible whereas my IMs lack any intelligibility.

TestECull: How many tabs you have open at once? While doing [email protected], more than 10 or so is a death wish. While not [email protected], about 50-100 will crash it. With Firefox 2.0.x installed, I was able to have over 450 tabs open sans incident while folding.


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


TestECull: How many tabs you have open at once? While doing [email protected], more than 10 or so is a death wish. While not [email protected], about 50-100 will crash it. With Firefox 2.0.x installed, I was able to have over 450 tabs open sans incident while folding.



I regularly get 10-15 tabs going, and nary a hitch. Well, ok, I do get the odd bug, but that's my router hijacking my browser after it crashes. I've never had DEP trip...and I don't fold anymore. My folding capable GPU(8400GS) is pathetic and Standford's giving crap WU's anyways. Maybe it's a conflict between [email protected] and FF? I can install and start [email protected] up and see if I can recreate..


----------



## Grim

I demand I be added to this cool club NOW!!!
or I'm a get brutal

















I submitted ages ago.

my Venice 3500+ wass clocked to 2.5GHZ which I dont have anymore.
And this clawhammer 3200+ does 2.2GHZ.


----------



## Blitz6804

All we need is a CPU-Z validation of some flavor. Links are preferred over screenshots, but either will do.

As to a prior submission: this was your first post in the thread according to the search tool. (I checked there for a prior submission of a link.)


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Or a 13 year old...













































:drun ken:


----------



## Grim

hm. weird.
But thanks for the requirements.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Grim*


I demand I be added to this cool club NOW!!!
or I'm a get brutal

















I submitted ages ago.

my Venice 3500+ wass clocked to 2.5GHZ which I dont have anymore.
And this clawhammer 3200+ does 2.2GHZ.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


You can disable it across the entire system yes. Although there is a feature to disable it on a program-by-program basis, it will not let you shut it off for Firefox. It says "this program must run with DEP enabled."

For the record, it is not just a Vista option. It has been a part of Windows since XP SP2.


Blitz, yes I understand DEP has been part of Windows since XP SP2









Have you tried adding FireFox to the DEP exceptions list? Did you try running Firefox as the administrator (Run as)? Make sure that account is enabled as well.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I think the post you quoted answered that. If you try to add Fx to the DEP exception list, it tells you that the program must run with DEP enabled.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I think the post you quoted answered that. If you try to add Fx to the DEP exception list, it tells you that the program must run with DEP enabled.











So I dun a bad thing by disabling DEP?


----------



## Blitz6804

It is not a bad thing _per se_ that you disabled DEP. I personally feel that they invented it for a reason. (For the record, I also keep on UAC.)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I think the post you quoted answered that. If you try to add Fx to the DEP exception list, it tells you that the program must run with DEP enabled.

Blitz, that is fine. It's better to keep DEP enabled.

In regards to the crashing issues, are you running any extensions or plugins within FireFox? If a plugin tries to use data as a code then DEP will prevent this. This may explain why sometimes FF crashes.

Good luck


----------



## TestECull

I left DEP on. It helps when steam vacuums itself into it's own arsehole, and completely phails epically. DEP will usually kill it, I restart, and all's good.


----------



## Blitz6804

Thlnk3r: I have tried running Firefox in safe mode. Crashes. I have completely uninstalled all extensions. Crashes. I have tried uninstalling and doing a fresh install. Crashes.

A precursory Google search seems to indicate this is a problem with Fx 3.0.x and Vista 64-bit.


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz, you could always try running an older version of Firefox until this particular issue is fixed. Here is a link that will take you to 2.0.0.18: http://www.mozilla.com/en-US/firefox/all-older.html. Sounds more like a FF problem then DEP.

Good luck


----------



## Hueristic

version1.5


----------



## Blitz6804

I used to use version 1.0.7. If not for Vista not playing nicely with it, I likely still would.

I am trying running it as an admin to see if that does anything for me.


----------



## TestECull

Hey, guys, need some backup with another thread.

OP has an FX60, and he wants help overclocking it.


----------



## Evil Eddie

BlackOmega said i should post in here, join the club... just seen that i should have a cpu-z to join or something like that. well here is my snapshot









will be after some water cooling when i get a job or miraculously be come rich so i can oc some more.


----------



## Blitz6804

So posted TestECull.

Evil Eddie, I will add you to the off-site roster shortly. Txtmstrjoe will add you to the on-site later.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Evil Eddie, welcome to the Club!


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Evil Eddie, welcome to the Club!










2x


----------



## thlnk3r

Welcome to the club Evil Eddie. I hope your stay here is enjoyable


----------



## MRHANDS

I want in








http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=460628


----------



## Blitz6804

Welcome aboard MRHANDS. I am modifying the off-site to include you presently.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Grim*


I demand I be added to this cool club NOW!!!
or I'm a get brutal

















I submitted ages ago.

my Venice 3500+ wass clocked to 2.5GHZ which I dont have anymore.
And this clawhammer 3200+ does 2.2GHZ.


 O hellz no you didnt!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Evil Eddie*


BlackOmega said i should post in here, join the club... just seen that i should have a cpu-z to join or something like that. well here is my snapshot









will be after some water cooling when i get a job or miraculously be come rich so i can oc some more.


 Welcome!


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MRHANDS*


I want in








http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=460628


----------



## pez

Hey guys, got a question that was brought up in a conversation with Pio yesterday. Most Nforce4 boards to my knowledge have a molex connector on the motherboard for when running SLI. My question is, if the cards are already being powered by the 6-pin connectors from the CPU, then theoretically it shouldn't need the molex connector right? The motherboard says it's for stability, and when I got this computer it was plugged up, but also had non powerful cards in it (2x6600LE's).


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Hey guys, got a question that was brought up in a conversation with Pio yesterday. Most Nforce4 boards to my knowledge have a molex connector on the motherboard for when running SLI. My question is, if the cards are already being powered by the 6-pin connectors from the CPU, then theoretically it shouldn't need the molex connector right? The motherboard says it's for stability, and when I got this computer it was plugged up, but also had non powerful cards in it (2x6600LE's).

My best guess is it's a backup for voltage drop. Just a guess though.


----------



## Blitz6804

I concur. My guess is that it provides extra current to the PCI-E slots. Only so much power can be sent through the imbedded wires on the PCB so additional power is routed into the PCI-E slots via that plug. (At least, that is my guess.) On my Abit board (two PCI-E slots) there was one; on my DFI board (three PCI-E slots) there was two. I rarely see such a connector in a single-slot board. This goes toward that theory.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Welcome, MRHANDS! You are now officially a member of our Club.

pez, Hueristic's (and Blitz's) theory is most likely correct. That molex plug is there to augment/stabilize the power delivery to the PCI-E graphics slots.

What I personally find interesting is that on DFI's LANParty UT motherboards, even the non-SLI Ultra-D, there is not just the molex plug, but also a floppy drive power connector on the boards. Moreover, DFI veterans will strongly advise you to make sure all the on-board power plugs are connected to the power supply for optimum performance and stability. As far as I know, this is a design detail unique to DFI's LANParty UT motherboards (speaking, of course, strictly about S939).

I find this intriguing; is this a case of "better safe than sorry" when it comes to providing adequate power delivery by DFI? Or does this indicate that multi-GPU motherboard engineering under-estimated the power demands of SLI and Crossfire back in those pioneering days? (Remember that SLI and Crossfire were born during the heyday of S939.)


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I did not even know that IE had a spellchecker. I personally use Fx, though I am having some epic issues* with 3.0.x. I miss 1.0.7! (>_<)

*Firefox 3.0.x on some Vista 64-bit systems will cause repeated Data Execution Prevention errors. DEP cannot be disabled for Firefox.


Ok I'm back had to run back into the bay area today to pick up some more goods for BNBB. I tried to post a picture of what I was talking about in regards to spell checker and OCN crashed so that is when I up and took off for Asus to drop off my dead M2N32 SLI Deluxe and pic up yet another board M2N32 WS Pro and some small cable management accessories...

So here is the picture I was going to link when OCN crashed...


----------



## N2Gaming

I was going to post a wanted add in regards to trying to find any one with an original xp x64 cd rom and I get this mesage when I try to creat new thead. Is this feature only for paying members or am I missing something? http://www.overclock.net/newthread.p...ewthread&f=148


----------



## Blitz6804

You are required to have at least 35 Reps to start a new thread in the Sales forum. (Id est, For sale, Wanted, For Trade, et cetera.)


----------



## N2Gaming

yeah and I'm really against rep begging too. guess I'll be looking elsewhere for a copy. thanks blitz


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, that, and rep-begging is against the rules. *Chuckles.* Get cracking on your case mod thread. Those are usually HUGE sources of Reps, especially when done well.


----------



## TestECull

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Hey guys, got a question that was brought up in a conversation with Pio yesterday. Most Nforce4 boards to my knowledge have a molex connector on the motherboard for when running SLI. My question is, if the cards are already being powered by the 6-pin connectors from the CPU, then theoretically it shouldn't need the molex connector right? The motherboard says it's for stability, and when I got this computer it was plugged up, but also had non powerful cards in it (2x6600LE's).


My ePox supports 8x/8x SLI with nForce 4, but it does not have any sort of molex on it. My 8x/8x SLI DFI did, however, have one molex between the slots, a floppy plug to be exact.


----------



## oneluvballer21

N2Gaming, I have a XP64 CD... currently its at my parents house with all my other computer CDs (forgot it there the last time I visited to fix my mom's computer), but I should get it back at Christmas, if not before... I'm willing to part with it if you don't find one sooner.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Well, that, and rep-begging is against the rules. *Chuckles.* Get cracking on your case mod thread. Those are usually HUGE sources of Reps, especially when done well.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
My ePox supports 8x/8x SLI with nForce 4, but it does not have any sort of molex on it. My 8x/8x SLI DFI did, however, have one molex between the slots, a floppy plug to be exact.

Yeah, well in the manual it says this only needs to be plugged up for Added stability while running 2 cards in SLI. I'll probably plug it up anyways, but I was trying to avoid rrunning another PSU cable right across everything >.<.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
















Thanks, I, working on that right now.


----------



## oneluvballer21

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Yeah, well in the manual it says this only needs to be plugged up for Added stability while running 2 cards in SLI. I'll probably plug it up anyways, but I was trying to avoid rrunning another PSU cable right across everything >.<.

Yeah, if you can handle plugging the molex in, just keep it in... no harm done, and extra power for stability (especially when OC'd).


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


My question is, if the cards are already being powered by the 6-pin connectors from the CPU, then theoretically it shouldn't need the molex connector right? The motherboard says it's for stability, and when I got this computer it was plugged up, but also had non powerful cards in it (2x6600LE's).


Pez, most motherboard manuals state that the power connector provides an auxiliary power source for devices that are added onto the PCIe slots. I've ran both my Asus A8N-SLI and my current DFI SLI-DR without the power connectors and I didn't experience any problems. Shoot I think I've ran some boards without the 4-pin 12volt connector...that was for testing of course. To be safe though, I've connected the 4-pin and floppy connector in my DFI SLI-DR.

Welcome Mr Hands


----------



## Evil Eddie

would any one happen to have a jetway motherboard with Phoenix awardbios 6.00pg? 
i have been searching for that so i can oc my cpu. i have found many with the same name and version number but the screen shots are not the same as mine.

there is no HTT setting just hyper threading something(brain fart atm) that gives ranges from 200MHz to 1G which im assuming is MTTx200
here is my thread on it here

sorry this is


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Evil Eddie*


would any one happen to have a jetway motherboard with Phoenix awardbios 6.00pg? 
i have been searching for that so i can oc my cpu. i have found many with the same name and version number but the screen shots are not the same as mine.

there is no HTT setting just hyper threading something(brain fart atm) that gives ranges from 200MHz to 1G which im assuming is MTTx200
here is my thread on it here

sorry this is










It appears to me that you have the proper settings. The HT Link setting that you have adjusted to 600MHz, is in fact the same as an HT Multiplier. You want you HT Link at or near 1000MHz (slightly above is okay as well). See CPUz for more info (yours is currently roughly 740ish from what I remember).


----------



## Evil Eddie

by changing that to 1000Mhz could that have fried my hard drive or the boot-up sector on it? either that or i got a virus that just kicked my butt.

my computer would not boot up it did a very fast bsod, after restarting it 5 times i was able to read more every time, it said something about windows logon blah blah had to shut down to prevent hardware failure. so i loaded the win xp disk to try a repair and of course it hates me, wouldnt repair so i was gana try to reinstall it in a partition and now it is doing a disk read error, press cntrl alt delete.

the HT link was all i changed as pioneerisloud mentioned, but i could have gotten a virus from a link in wowhead (world of warcraft data sight) that i clicked.


----------



## TestECull

Your HyperTransport link will NOT fubar your boot sector or anything like that.


----------



## Evil Eddie

ok, didnt think so.


----------



## N2Gaming

does any one know if I can run an xp install from with in 2000 pro open windows? I'm gonna try it to see if I can do an install that way with the files I copied from my xp cd/rom


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pez, most motherboard manuals state that the power connector provides an auxiliary power source for devices that are added onto the PCIe slots. I've ran both my Asus A8N-SLI and my current DFI SLI-DR without the power connectors and I didn't experience any problems. Shoot I think I've ran some boards without the 4-pin 12volt connector...that was for testing of course. To be safe though, I've connected the 4-pin and floppy connector in my DFI SLI-DR.

Welcome Mr Hands










Yeah, but did you have it unplugged while running SLI? I mean, i have the regular 4-pin and the 24-pin power connections, but then there is that one as well.


----------



## Blitz6804

Posted in your thread about your overclock Evil Eddie.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


Your HyperTransport link will NOT fubar your boot sector or anything like that.


TestECull, this most certainly can occur. Any type of unstable overclock can lead to a number of data corruption issues on the drive/OS. If the machine suddenly freezes or restarts then you're just asking for it. I've ran into a few instances where high HT speeds have caused MBR issues. It's rare for me but it can happy.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


does any one know if I can run an xp install from with in 2000 pro open windows? I'm gonna try it to see if I can do an install that way with the files I copied from my xp cd/rom


N2Gaming, are you trying to upgrade to Windows XP from Windows 200? Can you provide more detail? I think I know what you're trying to do.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Yeah, but did you have it unplugged while running SLI? I mean, i have the regular 4-pin and the 24-pin power connections, but then there is that one as well.


Pez, I never tried SLI. Of course it wouldn't hurt anything to test. Would anyone here that has SLI want to try it? According to the manuals I've read and to a few posts I've checked out on the internet, the power connectors on the boards are for "additional PCIe *devices*". That doesn't go to say it doesn't help with SLI stability. Though I can't imagine a 75 PCIe slot and a 6-pin/8-pin not being able to provide enough power.

Good luck guys


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 

N2Gaming, are you trying to upgrade to Windows XP from Windows 200? Can you provide more detail? I think I know what you're trying to do.

Good luck guys

Yea, My idea is to install win 2k Pro and then right away before I load any drivers and what not start the xp pro x64 install while I have win 2K pro running. I was able to start the xp x64 while running xp x64 with the disk that I copied so I'm hoping that I will be able to use the copied disk to do an xp x64 while in win 2K Pro. Man Win 2K pro take forever to format a drive. It did not give me the quick format option and I'm formating a 500GB Drive.


----------



## Blitz6804

As far as I recall, you cannot install a 64-bit system though a 32-bit system nor the other way around. From Win2000 you could install XP x86, but 64-bit requires a fresh install.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
As far as I recall, you cannot install a 64-bit system though a 32-bit system nor the other way around. From Win2000 you could install XP x86, but 64-bit requires a fresh install.

XP Pro x64 was only released as a OEM if I remember correctly and they did not have any upgrade options for that OS is this correct? Sounds like a bunch of MS BS to my a$.


----------



## Blitz6804

You can certainly try. But, if I remember right, any attempts to put a 64-bit install disc (Vista and Ubuntu) into XP 32-bit resulted in an error saying it was not a valid 16- or 32-bit executable.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
You can certainly try. But, if I remember right, any attempts to put a 64-bit install disc (Vista and Ubuntu) into XP 32-bit resulted in an error saying it was not a valid 16- or 32-bit executable.

I'll let you know if a little while 2K is reistering compants right now. It wont be long till I have an answer for sure on that.


----------



## N2Gaming

you are very correct blitz. I get the following mesage. This version of windows must be installed by booting off of the cd. please reboot your computer with the cd in the drive.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


you are very correct blitz. I get the following mesage. This version of windows must be installed by booting off of the cd. please reboot your computer with the cd in the drive.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


you are very correct blitz. I get the following mesage. This version of windows must be installed by booting off of the cd. please reboot your computer with the cd in the drive.










N2Gaming, perhaps this is an ignorant question but why are you trying to upgrade? Why don't you just perform a clean installation? Seems like that woul dbe the easiest route.

Good luck


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, perhaps this is an ignorant question but why are you trying to upgrade? Why don't you just perform a clean installation? Seems like that woul dbe the easiest route.

Good luck


Thought his disk was cracked? maybe won't boot?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, perhaps this is an ignorant question but why are you trying to upgrade? Why don't you just perform a clean installation? Seems like that woul dbe the easiest route.

Good luck


Maybe you missed it but My original xp x64 bit cd rom is damaged. I was able to make a copy of the disk to disk files but the copy is not bootable so that is why I'm trying it but turns out to be an eppic failz.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Maybe you missed it but My original xp x64 bit cd rom is damaged. I was able to make a copy of the disk to disk files but the copy is not bootable so that is why I'm trying it but turns out to be an eppic failz.


N2Gaming, ahh I see. Have you tried making a bootable .ISO?

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

The copy might not be bootable for two reasons. (1) There is copy protection software on the original that prevents copying the boot sector, or (2), the copy was not made correctly such that it will be bootable.

How did you attempt to copy the disc? Use a program to create an ISO and then another to burn the ISO as a bootable disc onto the CD? Use a program to copy verbatim disc to disc? Some other method?

Remember, if there is some sort of copy protection scheme on the disc preventing a copy, any attempt to circumvent it may run afoul of the DMCA. The chances of Microsoft knowing about it are slim, but keep that in mind please before you attempt to break any protection scheme.


----------



## N2Gaming

yea but I don't know what I'm doing







I tried using freeware and then I got a msg after the app was finished waisting a cd rom that the trial version is only good for 300MB files.







uninstall that as quick as I can. what good is an ISO burner app if you can't use it for OS's?


----------



## TheJack

Hey guys, I'm looking to turn my second computer into a media center for recording shows how Tivo does. My 939 is a 2.2ghz single core and I was wondering if that's enough. If not, I'm looking to buy a dual core if anyone is selling.


----------



## Blitz6804

I personally use Alex Feinman's "ISORecorder." There is no limit to the size ISO you may burn (CD or DVD) and it is freeware. Works in x86 and x64 systems. (Just get the right version.)

TheJack: 1) I invite you to post a CPU-Z of said 939 and get in on this tasty club action. 2) Ask Pioneerisloud. He runs a 939 HTPC himself.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I personally use Alex Feinman's "ISORecorder." There is no limit to the size ISO you may burn (CD or DVD) and it is freeware. Works in x86 and x64 systems. (Just get the right version.)

TheJack: 1) I invite you to post a CPU-Z of said 939 and get in on this tasty club action. 2) Ask Pioneerisloud. He runs a 939 HTPC himself.


 Thank you, Googling's away


----------



## BlackOmega

Personally I use BurnCDCC to burn .iso files.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


yea but I don't know what I'm doing







I tried using freeware and then I got a msg after the app was finished waisting a cd rom that the trial version is only good for 300MB files.







uninstall that as quick as I can. what good is an ISO burner app if you can't use it for OS's?


N2Gaming, try out this application. It's called LCISOCreator(completely free). I've made plenty of .ISO with this application. I also use Nero 6 to burn the .ISO's to a CD. It's a pretty simple process, anyone can do it. If decide to use Nero, look for the option, "Burn Image to Disc" and browse for the .ISO.

Let us know if that works

Good luck

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheJack*


Hey guys, I'm looking to turn my second computer into a media center for recording shows how Tivo does. My 939 is a 2.2ghz single core and I was wondering if that's enough. If not, I'm looking to buy a dual core if anyone is selling.


TheJack, that is plenty of processing power. For a HTPC the two things that are most important are storage space and the tuner card. I believe Pioneerisloud would be the go to man for these types of questions. He has many hours of experienc when it comes to setting up these machines


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, try out this application. It's called LCISOCreator(completely free). I've made plenty of .ISO with this application. I also use Nero 6 to burn the .ISO's to a CD. It's a pretty simple process, anyone can do it. If decide to use Nero, look for the option, "Burn Image to Disc" and browse for the .ISO.

Let us know if that works

Good luck

TheJack, that is plenty of processing power. For a HTPC the two things that are most important are storage space and the tuner card. I believe Pioneerisloud would be the go to man for these types of questions. He has many hours of experienc when it comes to setting up these machines










Program keeps say can't creat iso.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pez, I never tried SLI. Of course it wouldn't hurt anything to test. Would anyone here that has SLI want to try it? According to the manuals I've read and to a few posts I've checked out on the internet, the power connectors on the boards are for "additional PCIe *devices*". That doesn't go to say it doesn't help with SLI stability. Though I can't imagine a 75 PCIe slot and a 6-pin/8-pin not being able to provide enough power.

Good luck guys


 Well, on my board I do not need to have the molex connector hooked up if my video cards have their own power connector. I have it hooked up anyway, but I havent noticed any stability changes. I am running slightly downclocked ATM until I get a chance to lap the big typhoon. Probably, this weekend.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Program keeps say can't creat iso.


N2Gaming, this is the damaged CD correct? Have you tried the application that Blitz suggested? LCISOCreator I know works









Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well, on my board I do not need to have the molex connector hooked up if my video cards have their own power connector. I have it hooked up anyway, but I havent noticed any stability changes.


Omega, thanks for verifying for us and you do in fact have a SLI setup. Interesting...

Good luck guys


----------



## Blitz6804

The program I suggested can create ISOs from CDs and CDs from ISOs. However, it will not copy if there is a copy protection system in place. If it will not make an ISO of your disc, you know the disc is either too damaged or copy protected.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hey guys, anybody seen hide or hair of G.O. lately?

(Sorry if this is OT...







)


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


The program I suggested can create ISOs from CDs and CDs from ISOs. However, it will not copy if there is a copy protection system in place. If it will not make an ISO of your disc, you know the disc is either too damaged or copy protected.


 I can't even figure out how to use it. I unsip the files and I don't see a program icon that will open the app.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Hey guys, anybody seen hide or hair of G.O. lately?

(Sorry if this is OT...







)



Maybe his power finally got shut off?


----------



## Blitz6804

When you extract the zip, there should be two files in it: SetupVx.msi and Setup.exe. Double click the Setup.exe and follow in the instructions.

After it is installed, you can put a disc in the drive, right-click the drive in Windows, and select "Create image from CD" and follow the directions. To burn a disc, right-click on an ISO and select "Copy Image to CD" and follow the directions.

BlackOmega: GuardianOdin did not have problems with his power. His car broke. If I had to guess, he tried to get more work to help pay the repairs faster.


----------



## BlackOmega

I know this is way OT, but how often does the folding team rank update?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Okay guys, I just recieved my second set of Corsair XMS 2x1GB today. I popped them in and completely forgot about loosening timings. But how am I here, and not BSOD yet? I am still running these speeds and timings!!!


----------



## BlackOmega

Very nice Pio!


----------



## pez

Ok, so about the northbridge cooler. I found an old (but BNIPlastic) MX400 vid card (think that's the name) and low and behold, it had a 40mm heatsink with the perfect height. My only question is, would that be fine working w/o a fan? Just need some input. About the molex connection on my board, here is what the manual says exactly:

"When SLI mode is enabled, please plug in this PEX power source connector to make sure the system is working under a stable environment. Please read Chapter 5 for detail information."

This is what Chapter 5 reads:

"Step 5: Connect a 4-pin ATX power cable to PEX power connector (JPEXPWR1), this will ensure the stabilization of your system.

Also, just as a note, this manual was written more than 2 years ago. Because the first thing it says is "Only Windows XP supports SLI (Dual Video) function."


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Ok, so about the northbridge cooler. I found an old (but BNIPlastic) MX400 vid card (think that's the name) and low and behold, it had a 40mm heatsink with the perfect height. My only question is, would that be fine working w/o a fan? Just need some input. About the molex connection on my board, here is what the manual says exactly:

"When SLI mode is enabled, please plug in this PEX power source connector to make sure the system is working under a stable environment. Please read Chapter 5 for detail information."

This is what Chapter 5 reads:

"Step 5: Connect a 4-pin ATX power cable to PEX power connector (JPEXPWR1), this will ensure the stabilization of your system.

Also, just as a note, this manual was written more than 2 years ago. Because the first thing it says is "Only Windows XP supports SLI (Dual Video) function."


I'll find you a newegg link of the cooler that I replaced Froggy's NB sink with. It works just fine, and will fit any GPU combination you want. I will edit this post with the link...so refresh until it shows up







.

Here it is. It's nice and cheap, and it is a DIRECT stock replacement heatsink / fan.


----------



## Blitz6804

Let me put it this way pez: you can do no harm by having the cable plugged in. I personally used all possible connectors even with a single-video-card environment.

As to the heatsink, I can give you a definite maybe. It depends how much airflow is in that area. If there is enough ambient turbidity, it should be fine on its own. If not, your NB will overheat. In that case, an 80mm fan perpendicular to the board and graphics cards (so parallel to the front of your case) might be in order to insure proper airflow.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Let me put it this way pez: you can do no harm by having the cable plugged in. I personally used all possible connectors even with a single-video-card environment.

As to the heatsink, I can give you a definite maybe. It depends how much airflow is in that area. If there is enough ambient turbidity, it should be fine on its own. If not, your NB will overheat. In that case, an 80mm fan perpendicular to the board and graphics cards (so parallel to the front of your case) might be in order to insure proper airflow.


Yeah, I'll most likely just plug it up *sigh*. My case stays actually pretty cool no matter what, so I think it should be fine.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I'll find you a newegg link of the cooler that I replaced Froggy's NB sink with. It works just fine, and will fit any GPU combination you want. I will edit this post with the link...so refresh until it shows up







.

Here it is. It's nice and cheap, and it is a DIRECT stock replacement heatsink / fan.


Well Idk, it might run into my video card, that's really what I'm worried about. For the record though, how loud is it?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Here it is. It's nice and cheap, and it is a DIRECT stock replacement heatsink / fan.


Pio, what kind of idle and full load temps is she getting with this chipset cooler? I'm thinking about removing my HR-05-SLI so I have more room to mount SI-128. This low profile cooler would allow that.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Let me put it this way pez: you can do no harm by having the cable plugged in. I personally used all possible connectors even with a single-video-card environment.


Blitz, well said. Even though it may not be required I still have all the power connectors plugged in.


----------



## MKLAW

i use to have a 939 system like 3 yrs ago
they are great
so i would like to appreciate them even though i now use a core 2


----------



## Blitz6804

Do you recall what CPU it was? I would be glad to add you on as a Nostalgic member if she's no longer with you.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MKLAW* 
i use to have a 939 system like 3 yrs ago
they are great
so i would like to appreciate them even though i now use a core 2

Lol, right on


----------



## jlells01

Any ideas for suggested improvements?

OCCT Stable:

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=460618


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes jlells01: for some reason, your RAM shows as 3-3-0-6. Confirm in the BIOS that the tCL-tRCD-tRP-tRAS contains no zeros. If we knew more about your system (click this to add) we could help more. If you cannot overclock higher, I am going to guess (tentatively) it is your RAM. Usually, the tRP is the same as tRCD. Further, it is presently running at DDR 448, which may be a fuzz high depending what RAM you are running. I will be happy to add you to our off-site roster as soon as I get home tonight.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jlells01*


Any ideas for suggested improvements?

OCCT Stable:

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=460618


You could always drop your HT multiplier to 4x and drop your CPU multi to 10 and then up your fsb till it hangs and then back the fsb off untill you get a stable occt just a couple of penny's for you.


----------



## jlells01

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


You could always drop your HT multiplier to 4x and drop your CPU multi to 10 and then up your fsb till it hangs and then back the fsb off untill you get a stable occt just a couple of penny's for you.


Any reason to go with 4x and 10 vs. other combinations?


----------



## jlells01

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Yes jlells01: for some reason, your RAM shows as 3-3-0-6. Confirm in the BIOS that the tCL-tRCD-tRP-tRAS contains no zeros. If we knew more about your system (click this to add) we could help more. If you cannot overclock higher, I am going to guess (tentatively) it is your RAM. Usually, the tRP is the same as tRCD. Further, it is presently running at DDR 448, which may be a fuzz high depending what RAM you are running. I will be happy to add you to our off-site roster as soon as I get home tonight.


Thanks for the reply!

RAM reads 3-3-0-6.

Sorry I haven't filled out the system yet...

RAM is this: http://www.corsair.com/_datasheets/CMX1024-3200C2.pdf

I've tried a little higher cpu speed (another 100MHz or so), and while stable, it requires more voltage, which really starts to raise the temperatures...

Would tight timings at all offset a lower cpu freq?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jlells01*


Any reason to go with 4x and 10 vs. other combinations?


Well I'm sure you know by lowering your cpu multi you can reach a higher fsb and thus when you go higher on your fsb your HT link will also climb from where it's at right now. so if you lower your HT multi to 4 and fsb up to 250 and beyond then your HT will be 1000+ respectively and possibly create better stablility. It's all about how many options you try to find your limits. do you know your Mobo fsb limit? If not that is a good place to start.


----------



## jlells01

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Well I'm sure you know by lowering your cpu multi you can reach a higher fsb and thus when you go higher on your fsb your HT link will also climb from where it's at right now. so if you lower your HT multi to 4 and fsb up to 250 and beyond then your HT will be 1000+ respectively and possibly create better stablility. It's all about how many options you try to find your limits. do you know your Mobo fsb limit? If not that is a good place to start.


Thanks again for the reply & explanation...

I've pushed my FSB, and while it boots & runs just fine, the problem seems to be that of power, or a lack there of.

Once I start pushing the speed up, the voltage requirement rises dramatically, and thus, the temperatures do as well.

I won't run the settings if they're not OCCT stable.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jlells01*


Thanks again for the reply & explanation...

I've pushed my FSB, and while it boots & runs just fine, the problem seems to be that of power, or a lack there of.

Once I start pushing the speed up, the voltage requirement rises dramatically, and thus, the temperatures do as well.

I won't run the settings if they're not OCCT stable.


 What cooler are you using on your cpu and at what temps does your cpu reach when you fail occt? do you also know the mobo temps? Also what is the HT link at when it's failing occt. These are all signs of things you should keep an eye on when pushing your overclock to the limit of failing. I would try to get your system as high as possible and still be stable before you move on to increasing voltages just yet. It is very possible to do irreversable damage to your componants by uppin the voltage if it was not needed in the first place. Maybe if lower your ht multi you will gain more stability. you could also try to drop your ram to ddr166 or one notch down from ddr200 and see if that helps with stability. Your ram as blitz mentioned is inching towards ddr450 and that may cause stability issues. Blitz is very good at ram timings you may want to listen to his advice on ram timings.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jlells01*


Thanks for the reply!

RAM reads 3-3-0-6.

Sorry I haven't filled out the system yet...

RAM is this: http://www.corsair.com/_datasheets/CMX1024-3200C2.pdf

I've tried a little higher cpu speed (another 100MHz or so), and while stable, it requires more voltage, which really starts to raise the temperatures...

Would tight timings at all offset a lower cpu freq?



Those are pretty odd timings. Im running the exact same ram Ive got mine @ 2-3-3-6. As for getting your clock higher, definitely lower your ram and HT multiplier, you wanna keep your ht around 1k. Anything above 750 is fine, you really dont notice much of a difference (if at all). Then as you crank up your FSB all the other things like ram & HT will go with it. 
But definitely get an aftermarket cooler. I just ordered one of these. Cant beat it for $30/shipped. Im going to lap mine before I install it.


----------



## oneluvballer21

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jlells01*


Thanks again for the reply & explanation...

I've pushed my FSB, and while it boots & runs just fine, the problem seems to be that of power, or a lack there of.

Once I start pushing the speed up, the voltage requirement rises dramatically, and thus, the temperatures do as well.

I won't run the settings if they're not OCCT stable.


So when you say it raises the temps what are we talking about? From what temp up to what...? Please help us help you by giving as much pertinent info as possible (which includes filling out your system specs in User CP).

As for your memory timings versus CPU speed for performance, this is my personal opinion: go for top CPU clock primarily, then highest memory bandwidth with the tightest timings possible, even if it means adding voltage to stabilize the overclock (at least to a point; do research on your exact sticks to see how far others OC those sticks in terms of applied voltage). As I'm sure you know, with AMD-based systems you want the tightest timings possible, but in my experience, you want more bandwidth versus tight timings. That holds true especially for Intel systems, but it holds true for AMD systems as well, except the timings have more of an impact on AMD systems than Intel systems. I use Everest's memory benchmark to catalog (hand written on paper) my various bandwidth/timing combination results to see what I get the best performance out of. I wouldn't sacrifice _tight_ timings to go from 2700MHz up to 2720MHz, but I would gladly make the sacrifice for a 100MHz bump. Likewise, I wouldn't sacrifice tight timings to go from 245MHz on my memory up to 247MHz, but I would consider it for a 10MHz+ bump... depends on my results in Everest.

As for your current RAM timings, someone please confirm, but I don't think you can have a 0 timing... at least not successfully. I've never seen a BIOS that will allow it. Those numbers are "timings"... how _often_ information is processed... its like a light switch, turning it on and off, and how often you do it... in my understanding 0 is not an option. But I don't say this as hard fact, its just my understanding... anyone else...?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Alrighty guys, I just got an offer that I just cannot refuse. I am getting ANOTHER A8N32-SLI Deluxe motherboard soon, for the cost of one of my RMA'd GPU's (9600GT or 8800GTS 320). What does this mean? This means that soon, very soon....there will be an MSI K8N Neo4 SLI Motherboard up for sale. This board was capable of POST'ing at 380 HT (FSB). I have no clue what she's capable of stable...but that's the max I've gotten it to. It is also a very decent SLI motherboard, and has a great feature set including Onboard Creative Live! 24bit sound.

I am not putting this information in this thread because I am selling it. I can't sell it yet (new board not here yet). However, once the new board arrives....anybody that is looking for a great 939 board...keep your eyes peeled in the For Sale section here at OCN. It should pop up before Christmas







.


----------



## Blitz6804

jlells01: if you are sure those are the TWINX1024-3200C2(PT), then your settings should be:

tCL = 2
tRCD = 3
tRP = 3
tRAS = 6
VDIMM = 2.75 V

Check the sticker, if they are TWINX1024-3200C3*, then this would not be the case.

There are two numbers you want to watch: as N2Gaming has said, the Hypertransport should stay at or below 1000 MHz (but above 800 MHz) for the best blend of stability and speed. Further, the RAM at its tight 2-3-3-6 timings would need to be kept at or below DDR 400. (Pioneer is running his at DDR 500 or so now, but at 3-4-4-8.) So, if your RAM is over DDR 400, reduce the RAM divider. (That is, go from 200:200 to 200:166; or from DDR 400 to DDR 333; or from 200 MHz to 166 MHz; whatever your BIOS calls it.) Do not worry, as you overclock the bus, the RAM comes back up.

As to the tight timings offsetting a slower CPU: maybe. If you have outstanding bandwidth at 2.6 GHz, you might do the same as 2.4 GHz with mediocre bandwidth. It is all a question of what you are doing with the PC.

*Those DIMMs would be 3-3-3-8 @ 2.75 V instead of 2-3-3-6 @ 2.75 V.


----------



## BlackOmega

I run mine @ 401


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, sure, you do not need to be 400 MHz exactly. However, you want to stay as close to the manufacturer's specs on the RAM while working on the CPU. Then fiddle with the RAM later. Suppose, hypothetically, he gave them 2.95 V instead of 2.75 V. (Do not do this please jlells01.) He might be able to 2-3-2-5 @ DDR 430 for all we know.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Well, sure, you do not need to be 400 MHz exactly. However, you want to stay as close to the manufacturer's specs on the RAM while working on the CPU. Then fiddle with the RAM later. Suppose, hypothetically, he gave them 2.95 V instead of 2.75 V. (Do not do this please jlells01.) He might be able to 2-3-2-5 @ DDR 430 for all we know.


It could also cook it and corrupt his OS too


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Well, sure, you do not need to be 400 MHz exactly. However, you want to stay as close to the manufacturer's specs on the RAM while working on the CPU. Then fiddle with the RAM later. Suppose, hypothetically, he gave them 2.95 V instead of 2.75 V. (Do not do this please jlells01.) He might be able to 2-3-2-5 @ DDR 430 for all we know.

Hey now, I'm pulling DDR400, 2-3-2-5-2T (7/10), 2.85v. And this is with FOUR sticks of RAM







. Granted, I think there's something lucky about my rig (don't know what though).


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Well, sure, you do not need to be 400 MHz exactly. However, you want to stay as close to the manufacturer's specs on the RAM while working on the CPU.

Blitz, good point...this is always my approach. It might also be even better to just completely drop the memory to it's lowest divider and loosen the timings. I believe my G.Skill set is spec'ed at 2.5-3-3-6 but I have troubles running CAS 2.5 at my current processor overclock. Even with a VDimm bump to 2.7volts it won't even pass memtest.

Good luck


----------



## oneluvballer21

That's the beauty of having an unlocked multiplier.... its quick and easy (all things considered) to find out what your CPU can do (or close to it) before you start to fiddle with OCing the memory and such. Then again, when you look at OCing a system as one big puzzle, some people like bigger and more difficult puzzles...


----------



## Blitz6804

According to G.Skill, the F1-3200PHU2 requires up to 2.75 V to do 2.5-3-3-6 @ DDR 400. Yours are running DDR 399; have you tried 2.75 V? Also, why only 2T? DFI have too many settings to bother?

oneluvballer21: The benefits of an upwardly-unlocked multiplier are slim. Yes, it is nice to be able to throw together a quick overclock until you have a chance to fine tune, but in my experience, you will get a far better overclock lowering the multiplier and increasing the HTT than the other way around. (Even if you have the ability to set RAM dividers greater than 1:1.)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
According to G.Skill, the F1-3200PHU2 requires up to 2.75 V to do 2.5-3-3-6 @ DDR 400. Yours are running DDR 399; have you tried 2.75 V? Also, why only 2T? DFI have too many settings to bother?

Blitz, thanks for the reply. Well technically the F1-3200PHU2 is spec'ed for 2.6 ~ 2.75. I've tried 2.8volts for a few hours while testing but it wasn't happy at that. The memory run extremely hot as well. Literally burnt finger. I have a temo diode that was between the heat spreader and one of the IC's. It was reading 52C with active cooling.

It will run at 2.5-3-3-6 at stock clocks just not with my 300HTT * 10x overclock. Same goes for 1T. Currently I have the memory sitting at 2.5volts (according to the BIOS and Everest).

Good luck


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Alrighty guys, I just got an offer that I just cannot refuse. I am getting ANOTHER A8N32-SLI Deluxe motherboard soon, for the cost of one of my RMA'd GPU's (9600GT or 8800GTS 320). What does this mean? This means that soon, very soon....there will be an MSI K8N Neo4 SLI Motherboard up for sale. This board was capable of POST'ing at 380 HT (FSB). I have no clue what she's capable of stable...but that's the max I've gotten it to. It is also a very decent SLI motherboard, and has a great feature set including Onboard Creative Live! 24bit sound.

I am not putting this information in this thread because I am selling it. I can't sell it yet (new board not here yet). However, once the new board arrives....anybody that is looking for a great 939 board...keep your eyes peeled in the For Sale section here at OCN. It should pop up before Christmas







.


Is this the picky one you were complaining about to me?


----------



## azim

Let me join the club folks








Here is link to my CPU-Z image. http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/9...lon3200wx1.png


----------



## Blitz6804

No Pez, his A8N32-SLI Deluxe is the one that is ultra picky. When doing SLI, his two cards would work in one paring, but not the other. It also apparently only works with Corsair RAM... strange.

Azim: welcome aboard! I will be adding you to the roster shortly.

Club: I will be driving down to Long Island today. You all know what that means: I am blacked out for 8 hours, and if I survive the weather, I will be checking the forum only twice a day or so. I will post again before I leave.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *azim* 
Let me join the club folks








Here is link to my CPU-Z image. http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/9...lon3200wx1.png

Azim, welcome to the club. You've been added to the roster









Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Club: I will be driving down to Long Island today. You all know what that means: I am blacked out for 8 hours, and if I survive the weather, I will be checking the forum only twice a day or so. I will post again before I leave.

Blitz, good luck. Apparently So Cal is finally going to get a "winter storm" starting this weekend. I quoted that because it's always over exaggerated here


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *azim* 
Let me join the club folks








Here is link to my CPU-Z image. http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/9...lon3200wx1.png

1.536V w/ stock speeds?


----------



## Blitz6804

He might have an Asus A8V-X. That board is notorious for overvolting and there is no voltage setting in the BIOS.

Thlnk3r: It does not count as a "winter storm" until there are at least six inches... For me here though right now, it is sleeting.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
1.536V w/ stock speeds?









HothBase, more than likely CPU-Z is not reading the processor voltage correctly. I could be wrong though. CPU-Z has some weird issues sometimes displaying the correct Vcore if it's set over 1.4volts in the BIOS. I've seen this on quite a few overclocks here on the forum. Blitz may also be correct if he is running that board.

Good luck

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Thlnk3r: It does not count as a "winter storm" until there are at least six inches... For me here though right now, it is sleeting.

Blitz, if we got sleet then it would be considered a "winter storm warning". Not to mention the Doppler 7000 starts blowen up on TV


----------



## pez

Well pio, we'll talk about it later, but message me on the AIM later so we can talk about it







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Alrighty guys, I just got an offer that I just cannot refuse. I am getting ANOTHER A8N32-SLI Deluxe motherboard soon, for the cost of one of my RMA'd GPU's (9600GT or 8800GTS 320). What does this mean? This means that soon, very soon....there will be an MSI K8N Neo4 SLI Motherboard up for sale. This board was capable of POST'ing at 380 HT (FSB). I have no clue what she's capable of stable...but that's the max I've gotten it to. It is also a very decent SLI motherboard, and has a great feature set including Onboard Creative Live! 24bit sound.

I am not putting this information in this thread because I am selling it. I can't sell it yet (new board not here yet). However, once the new board arrives....anybody that is looking for a great 939 board...keep your eyes peeled in the For Sale section here at OCN. It should pop up before Christmas







.


Way to go! Totally scoring with that board. Hopefully it has no issues like the ones I've been having lately


----------



## pioneerisloud

Alrighty guys, here's proof of my stability







. S&M Stable. For the guys that are updating the roster...please don't lose my suicide run link of 3.27GHz. I would prefer to keep that up there as well. However if we can use this one TOO to prove stability, I wouldn't mind. Anyway, here's the settings:

312 x 9 = 2.80GHz, 1.20v set in BIOS, 4x HT Link
133 Divider = DDR400, 2-3-2-5-2T (7/10) with 4GB of RAM


----------



## thlnk3r

Pio, have you tried the 380HTT again? I'm sure you'll find a quick buyer.

Good luck buddy


----------



## majakone

WELCOME AZIM


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Pio, have you tried the 380HTT again? I'm sure you'll find a quick buyer.

Good luck buddy









Actually, that is my sig rig stability proof right there







. Just waiting the finishing touches on it (final 8800GT for SLI). But I figured I might as well make her stable while I'm waiting...especially with 4x1GB of RAM.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Alrighty guys, I'm going for it! You see my stable run. DDR400, 2-3-2-5-2T (7/10). I'm stepping it up another notch. I'm going for DDR510, 3-3-3-8-2T (11/14). The way I see it, I'm stable at DDR400 with REALLY tight timings. So why shouldn't I be stable at DDR500+ with loose timings? I am not adjusting my CPU at all, unless it's a slight voltage bump if needed. But I am bound and determined to stabilize DDR500+ with 4 sticks. I know this is silly, but it benchmarks SOO much better. It feels a little quicker as well.

Anyways, wish me luck. I will be wrestling my RAM stable until I give up or until the 8800GT arrives. One or the other. Or of course until I get it stable







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Alrighty guys, I'm going for it! You see my stable run. DDR400, 2-3-2-5-2T (7/10). I'm stepping it up another notch. I'm going for DDR510, 3-3-3-8-2T (11/14). The way I see it, I'm stable at DDR400 with REALLY tight timings. So why shouldn't I be stable at DDR500+ with loose timings? I am not adjusting my CPU at all, unless it's a slight voltage bump if needed. But I am bound and determined to stabilize DDR500+ with 4 sticks. I know this is silly, but it benchmarks SOO much better. It feels a little quicker as well.

Anyways, wish me luck. I will be wrestling my RAM stable until I give up or until the 8800GT arrives. One or the other. Or of course until I get it stable







.

Go for it man! " YOU CAN DO IT"









Oh snap only 142 post's away form 939 post's


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Actually, that is my sig rig stability proof right there







. Just waiting the finishing touches on it (final 8800GT for SLI). But I figured I might as well make her stable while I'm waiting...especially with 4x1GB of RAM.

Pio, my bad. I thought you were referring to the MSI K8N Plat. I guess I should look more carefully at screenshots









If DDR510 is possible can you post benchmarks comparing the two (DDR400 2-3-2-5-2T vs DDR510 3-3-3-8-2T)?

Good luck


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Pio, my bad. I thought you were referring to the MSI K8N Plat. I guess I should look more carefully at screenshots









If DDR510 is possible can you post benchmarks comparing the two (DDR400 2-3-2-5-2T vs DDR510 3-3-3-8-2T)?

Good luck

Well, it turns out DDR510 is possible, just not stable. I was able to run Everest Benchmark @ 3-3-3-8-2T (DDR510). I got 7310MB/s read. I didn't take a screenshot, because I was trying to make it stable. And you can see what DDR400 @ 2-3-2-5-2T does on my stability post a few posts ago.

I am now testing DDR400 @ 2-2-2-5-2T (7/9). So far, so good. It doesn't bench nearly as well as DDR510 with looser timings (roughly 59xxMB/s read at DDR400, 2-2-2-5), but if its stable, I'll go with it. I am running S&M right now. It seems pio has grown addicted to this S&M test







.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Question:
Does anybody else in here have odd temperatures with their Opterons? I'm loading at the following temps, tell me what's wrong here







:

CPU - 46*C
Core0 - 48*C
Core1 - 42*C

Now seriously...how can my core be running cooler than the IHS? This problem only seems to affect me when I'm undervolting, and it gets worse with the less volts I push. The more voltage I push however, the closer the two cores come together, the smaller the delta becomes. Why is it doing this to me?


----------



## mudd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Question:
Does anybody else in here have odd temperatures with their Opterons? I'm loading at the following temps, tell me what's wrong here







:

CPU - 46*C
Core0 - 48*C
Core1 - 42*C

Now seriously...how can my core be running cooler than the IHS? This problem only seems to affect me when I'm undervolting, and it gets worse with the less volts I push. The more voltage I push however, the closer the two cores come together, the smaller the delta becomes. Why is it doing this to me?


on the opty's one core runs hotter than another. i don't know why, but every 165/170 i've messed with had this happen.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mudd*


on the opty's one core runs hotter than another. i don't know why, but every 165/170 i've messed with had this happen.


Well, yes and no. My problem isn't that one core is running hotter than the other. My problem is...how is it possible that my Core is loading cooler than my IHS? I would think that to be physically impossible.


----------



## mudd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pio, my bad. I thought you were referring to the MSI K8N Plat. I guess I should look more carefully at screenshots









If DDR510 is possible can you post benchmarks comparing the two (DDR400 2-3-2-5-2T vs DDR510 3-3-3-8-2T)?

Good luck


i'll have to check out my old posts. a couple of years ago i had my TCCD ram and i did benchmarks to compare 2-2-2-5 1t @ DDR400 all the way up to like 2-3-3-6 2t @ DDR700ish. not much of a difference. i'll have to look it up tho, that was awhile ago and i've drank since then.


----------



## mudd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Well, yes and no. My problem isn't that one core is running hotter than the other. My problem is...how is it possible that my Core is loading cooler than my IHS? I would think that to be physically impossible.


i think the IHS reads a different sensor (don't quote me on this). what i did was cut my IHS off because they're worthless, so i don't have that problem









btw can i be added in the club?? i don't wanna go search thru all my old posts for screenshots and whatnot, but i will if i gotta.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mudd*


i think the IHS reads a different sensor (don't quote me on this). what i did was cut my IHS off because they're worthless, so i don't have that problem









btw can i be added in the club?? i don't wanna go search thru all my old posts for screenshots and whatnot, but i will if i gotta.


You can of course be added to the club. All we need is a CPUz validation link (or screenshot) so you can be added to the roster. And of course, the validation link is preferred. I might be mistaken, but you may be able to be put on the "Nostalgic" list without a link, but if this is your main rig, I'm sure a link shouldn't be too difficult to get







.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Alrighty guys, I'm going for it!

Anyways, wish me luck.







.


----------



## mudd

here's a link of my old superpi 32m time, i'm top 10 still for AMD









i got my 1m times running at 3.1 GHz but ocn deleted my attachment file, sadface.

http://www.overclock.net/attachment....8&d=1166070667


----------



## pioneerisloud

Whoa, you're pulling 3.0GHz with only 1.22v!!! That has GOT to be a record! And I thought that I had a golden chip! And DDR667! Holy crap!


----------



## mudd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Whoa, you're pulling 3.0GHz with only 1.22v!!! That has GOT to be a record! And I thought that I had a golden chip! And DDR667! Holy crap!


my vcore was more like 1.4v cpuz wasn't right. but i was running at DDR700+ when i was at 3.1 GHz, still running at 1:1. i have some killer TCCD that i <3'ed. still run this ole puppy, i guess i'm just old.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mudd*


my vcore was more like 1.4v cpuz wasn't right. but i was running at DDR700+ when i was at 3.1 GHz, still running at 1:1. i have some killer TCCD that i <3'ed. still run this ole puppy, i guess i'm just old.


And to think, I was happy with DDR533, 3-3-3-8-1T. Seriously, that is just amazing that you can pull 1:1 with speeds like that.


----------



## azim

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


1.536V w/ stock speeds?










Eww, how much should the woltage be then, becouse I havn't changed my settings there, they are standard.


----------



## mudd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *azim*


Eww, how much should the woltage be then, becouse I havn't changed my settings there, they are standard.


voltage on a stock venice core is like 1.35v isn't it?

FYI i was trying to kill my 3500+ venice core once and that puppy took 1.6v like it was nothing. only ran to 2.7 GHz cuz it was a poor stepping, but if you want to be safe, i wouldn't put it over 1.5v overclocked or 1.35v stock speeds.

also i noticed azim that you're running 1.5gigs of memory, if you want to overclock your memory, i'd suggest sticking w/ two sticks of dual channel memory. s939 memory controllers are bugged and hate it when they got more than 2 sticks of memory.


----------



## azim

So if my voltage is 1.536V is my processor like overclocked then, and should I change it to like 1.4V??


----------



## mudd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *azim*


So if my voltage is 1.536V is my processor like overclocked then, and should I change it to like 1.4V??


no you have to manually adjust your multiplier for it to be overclocked and do lots of testing. to hit 3.1 GHz it probably took me two weeks of testing to make it work with DDR690. all you're really doing by setting your vcore to 1.5v is shortening the life of your chip.

set your vcore to 1.35v if you're not overclocking. if you are overclocking, then please read the tutorials on this website, they're full of information.


----------



## azim

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mudd*


no you have to manually adjust your multiplier for it to be overclocked and do lots of testing. to hit 3.1 GHz it probably took me two weeks of testing to make it work with DDR690. all you're really doing by setting your vcore to 1.5v is shortening the life of your chip.

set your vcore to 1.35v if you're not overclocking. if you are overclocking, then please read the tutorials on this website, they're full of information.


Holy ****, thank you to let me know


----------



## mudd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *azim*


Holy ****, thank you to let me know










you betcha.


----------



## pez

That is a nice OC, makes me wish I had a CPU that had better stepping







. Oh well, it keeps me happy







.


----------



## majakone

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mudd* 
my vcore was more like 1.4v cpuz wasn't right. but i was running at DDR700+ when i was at 3.1 GHz, still running at 1:1. i have some killer TCCD that i <3'ed. still run this ole puppy, i guess i'm just old.

3.1 and DDR700 ???? ............. 1/1


----------



## mudd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *majakone* 
3.1 and DDR700 ???? ............. 1/1









...ddr690 =/ highest i ever got was ddr725 running 8x multi.


----------



## PROBN4LYFE

anything is possible...here


----------



## majakone

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PROBN4LYFE* 
anything is possible...here

would that be I-95 and RT. 29 IN MARYLAND














{in your location}


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mudd*


...ddr690 =/ highest i ever got was ddr725 running 8x multi.


This may be obvious to some but are you using 2x512mb sticks those are suppose to be the best overclockers. I have just oc'd my opty 180 to 1850 and I'll try 3000 next. you motivated me to push it.









edit: that was 3850 not 1850

2nd edit: 2850 not 1850 or 3850


----------



## majakone

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


This may be obvious to some but are you using 2x512mb sticks those are suppose to be the best overclockers. I have just oc'd my opty 180 to 1850 and I'll try 3000 next. you motivated me to push it.









edit: that was 3850 not 1850


Hold on a second , your 180 running at 3850 ?







3.850 ? or did i lose something in the translation ?


----------



## N2Gaming

Sorry about that got a little razzled during my attemps and posts. http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=461822

Hey blitz can you change my bone stock listing on the off sight roster
Hey txtmstrjoe can you change my bone stock listing on the main page of this club.

Thank's guys


----------



## mudd

i'm running 1 gb of TCCD. used to be the standard when i did a lot of overclocking =/


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mudd*


i'm running 1 gb of TCCD. used to be the standard when i did a lot of overclocking =/


 I'm still not getting it. so is that 1 stick of 1gig in single or double channel or 2x 512mb in double channel or 4x 256mb in double channel?


----------



## pioneerisloud

It appears to be 2x512MB







.

I have a question for you N2Gaming:
Why are you running your RAM so slowly? It appears that you have PC4000 or DDR500. Why not use the 166 divider and run DDR500 speeds with 300x10?


----------



## majakone

Hey I was just going to ask that question


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
It appears to be 2x512MB







.

I have a question for you N2Gaming:
Why are you running your RAM so slowly? It appears that you have PC4000 or DDR500. Why not use the 166 divider and run DDR500 speeds with 300x10?


Quote:


Originally Posted by *majakone* 
Hey I was just going to ask that question









I was wondering how long it would take for those questions to come rolling in. I was tying all sorts of things to get it to boot at 3.0 and when I dropped the ram timings I never brought them back up. I was on a suicide run to get my cpu to 3.0 just for the cause. 3.0 FTW


----------



## N2Gaming

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=461860

Is that more appealing?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=461860

Is that more appealing?

If its stable, sure!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
If its stable, sure!

LOL I doubt it. Like I said suicide run for ****'s and giggles.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
LOL I doubt it. Like I said suicide run for ****'s and giggles.









Oh come on. You can stabilize 3.0GHz with DDR500 even







. I have faith in your machine







. If mine can do it, yours can.


----------



## N2Gaming




----------



## N2Gaming

I pass a whopping 5 seconds in OCCT till I get the duck season call's


----------



## Evil Eddie

hey, i got my puter back up and running, and i have forgotten how i turned sli off, sense im not using thatfeature, when i turn puter on it pops up saying that it shut it off sense not in use, and i just dont like seeing that pop up.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Evil Eddie*


hey, i got my puter back up and running, and i have forgotten how i turned sli off, sense im not using thatfeature, when i turn puter on it pops up saying that it shut it off sense not in use, and i just dont like seeing that pop up.










I would start by trying to disable sli in your bios. Then I would go to your nvidia control panel and disable sli mode seen in this picture. Hope this helps. edit if you look at the bottom right corner of this picture you will see a green nvidia logo right next to my time on my task bar. if you place your mouse over it or right click on it you should get a menu and select the control panel.


----------



## BlackOmega

IF hes only running one card that feature shouldnt even be in the control panel.


----------



## Evil Eddie

what version of nvidia do you have? that is way diferent than mine.on my config there is no option to turn it off.


----------



## Evil Eddie

ok, here i go again with trying to figure out the OCing.

here is my bios, and here is my HTT, there are no 2x, 4x.... so that confuses me. and this will take me here to overclock it. but now this and this confuses me as well. i hope you guys can read these. i have only been able to reach 2.65 stable, but im sure i had something set weird, my cpu was at 240x11 then some one said change the multithread to 1000mhz, at the same time i got a virus that wiped me out. im gana get better ram some time in the future, right now i have 3x512 and 1x256. oh i did find out that the default vcore volts are at 1.4 its all at stock during these pics. any suggestions?

oh and another thing, how easy is it for the front speaker out jack to get fried during OCing? cuz now there is now sound in my front speakers, just the backs, i did swap them (that not it). i did reinstall drivers (many times). shows nothing conflicting nor any problems.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Evil Eddie* 
ok, here i go again with trying to figure out the OCing.

here is my bios, and here is my HTT, there are no 2x, 4x.... so that confuses me. and this will take me here to overclock it. but now this and this confuses me as well. i hope you guys can read these. i have only been able to reach 2.65 stable, but im sure i had something set weird, my cpu was at 240x11 then some one said change the multithread to 1000mhz, at the same time i got a virus that wiped me out. im gana get better ram some time in the future, right now i have 3x512 and 1x256. oh i did find out that the default vcore volts are at 1.4 its all at stock during these pics. any suggestions?

oh and another thing, how easy is it for the front speaker out jack to get fried during OCing? cuz now there is now sound in my front speakers, just the backs, i did swap them (that not it). i did reinstall drivers (many times). shows nothing conflicting nor any problems.

Ok first pull that 256 stick and 1 of the 512 sticks. Ideally you want the ram matching.Set your multithread to 1ghz. What are the options in the "DRAM Clock at Next Boot is"?

And as for the throttling thing, it basically means that when your CPU reaches 85*C itll downclock itself so it doesnt burn the chip up. You should set the temp value WAY lower. Most 939 AMD chips you wouldnt want to take them past 65*C. Some can get to 71*c though.


----------



## BlackOmega

FINALLY!!!!!!!!! broke the 3hgz mark!!! Was messing around with different multipliers and such, got it to post @ 3.1 but it BSOD'd when it got to windows. Some crazy wierd code too, 0x1D. Something about a spinlock...
Anyway, click my CPUZ link in the sig for my new settings


----------



## TestECull

Nice, and that's not even an LCBQE either.







here's one on the house









Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Ok first pull that 256 stick and 1 of the 512 sticks. Ideally you want the ram matching.Set your multithread to 1ghz. What are the options in the "DRAM Clock at Next Boot is"?

And as for the throttling thing, it basically means that when your CPU reaches 85*C itll downclock itself so it doesnt burn the chip up. You should set the temp value WAY lower. Most 939 AMD chips you wouldnt want to take them past 65*C. Some can get to 71*c though.


Eddie's Venice is fine up to 70. It's nearly identical to the one I have, so unless he runs more than 1.55Vcore, he will be able to set his safety net at 70.

Also, in my EXP, it seems to favor an all-out shutoff over throttling. My Venice overheated to the point of tripping that, before I was running my unusually high volts, and the motherboard simply shut the power supply off instead of trying to throttle back the GHz. Maybe if Cool'N'Quiet is on it throttles?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
Nice, and that's not even an LCBQE either.







here's one on the house


























You think if I up the voltage some more I could get more from it? I got it sittin @ 1.45v and it seems pretty stable. My idle temps went up slightly but not bad. 31* on the IHS and 39* @ the cores.


----------



## majakone

Nicw goin BLACKOMEGA


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *majakone* 
Nicw goin BLACKOMEGA









Thanx,







Im gonna mess around with the RAM later today see if I can do anything with it.


----------



## TestECull

That ain't bad, but idle temps aren't really worth much. Where's she load at?

As far as volts go, sure. I think at 1.5Vcore, you could pull 3.2GHz, but your stock + Tornado wouldn't be good enough on load.


----------



## BlackOmega

According to SnM 59.5*C @ 85% load, dont wanna run it @ 100% till I get my big typhoon on there. In gonna lap it later and slap er on there.
According to core temp 65*c was max observed. And 41*c on the IHS.


----------



## TestECull

Those temps are awesome for the stock cooler. The Typhoon should cut them in half tho, especially load, and let you run more Vcore.

On a slightly unrelated note, I just got done prodding my chip. 2616mhz and 1.5V. Gonna use it for a few days to eval stability. If I can crash Garry's Mod by blowing up too many barrels and not crash the processor, it's stable, I don't need Orthos.
















If that proves stable, I'm going for 2.8.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
Those temps are awesome for the stock cooler. The Typhoon should cut them in half tho, especially load, and let you run more Vcore.

On a slightly unrelated note, I just got done prodding my chip. 2616mhz and 1.5V. Gonna use it for a few days to eval stability. If I can crash Garry's Mod by blowing up too many barrels and not crash the processor, it's stable, I don't need Orthos.
















If that proves stable, I'm going for 2.8.

Thatll be great if I can cut temps. I played a round of TF2 to see how it would do, and noticed it was kinda choppy. So I ran SnM again and Im getting L1 cache failures. I gurantee it due to the temps since Im running @ 1.45vcore. I read an internal AMD document stating specifically that Opterons experience migration and L1 failures when they get too hot. And since I upped my vcore by .1 I bet it lowered my max considerably.
Im gonna see how low I can take the vcore before it wont boot


----------



## TestECull

L1 failures? Ouch. Turn that sucker down to 2.9 untill you get that Typhoon on there.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
L1 failures? Ouch. Turn that sucker down to 2.9 untill you get that Typhoon on there.

Just cranked er back down to 2.9 @ 1.38v ran SnM again no failures, temps dropped by 6*c


----------



## TestECull

Sounds like you averted permanant damage. Instability was probably too little voltage, but your current cooler can't support the volts you need.


----------



## BlackOmega

Hmmmm.....well this is odd. I played another round of TF2, temps were good, no L1 failures, yet still a little choppy. At a constant 60-100fps.....


----------



## TestECull

Disable multithreading. L4D has a similar bug, sometimes turning multithreading off fixes it.

My chip is solid. It's not going anywhere...I'll upload a few screenies of my 'test'.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


Disable multithreading. L4D has a similar bug, sometimes turning multithreading off fixes it.

My chip is solid. It's not going anywhere...I'll upload a few screenies of my 'test'.










 Is that in the game options somewhere? Dont think Ive ever had to disable it before.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


On a slightly unrelated note, I just got done prodding my chip. 2616mhz and 1.5V. Gonna use it for a few days to eval stability. If I can crash Garry's Mod by blowing up too many barrels and not crash the processor, it's stable, I don't need Orthos.















If that proves stable, I'm going for 2.8.


 Good job







is that the one withe busted pin?


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Evil Eddie*


here is my HTT, there are no 2x, 4x.... so that confuses me.

oh i did find out that the default vcore volts are at 1.4 its all at stock during these pics. any suggestions?


200 = x1
400 = x2
600 = x3
...and so on.

Try setting the vcore to 1.4 manually instead of default.


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Good job







is that the one withe busted pin?



Yup. It seems to be pretty stable, too. I couldn't crash it with Gmod, but then again I haven't thrown my full battery of tests at it yet. I do have screenshots of the test I have done so far, tho. My load temp is 41C with a 18C ambient.








This is the beginning of the test. Ignition has been achieved.
















Proceeding along nicely...








And finished.

No crashes, ~ 15FPS altho the counter is turned off.

Incase you're wondering, yes Gmod is a valid stability test. I have a picture I took on my Venice, when it started to degrade badly. I'm sure you can clearly tell the artifact present. It wasn't a graphical artifact as I had the X800 at the time, and I could not overclock that card at all


----------



## azim

Need help! I have read several guides, and watched some video guides, but I still don't know how to overclock my CPU. I think that I got different BIOS setup than most people. Can anybody link me nice guide which works with my motherboards bios?


----------



## Evil Eddie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Ok first pull that 256 stick and 1 of the 512 sticks. Ideally you want the ram matching.Set your multithread to 1ghz. What are the options in the "DRAM Clock at Next Boot is"?

And as for the throttling thing, it basically means that when your CPU reaches 85*C itll downclock itself so it doesnt burn the chip up. You should set the temp value WAY lower. Most 939 AMD chips you wouldnt want to take them past 65*C. Some can get to 71*c though.


1ghz inthe multithread is what crashed my system i thaught, or did it crash due to the ram being odd sizes? would it be better to have 2x512 and 2x256? i have ram chips out the wazzoo over here(old ones). i will take the chips out and try that, the dram options are 133mhz untill i start changing the cpu clock. they change together.

with the cpu at 200mhz the dram is 100, 133, 166, 200mhz


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Evil Eddie*


1ghz inthe multithread is what crashed my system i thaught, or did it crash due to the ram being odd sizes? would it be better to have 2x512 and 2x256? i have ram chips out the wazzoo over here(old ones). i will take the chips out and try that, the dram options are 133mhz untill i start changing the cpu clock. they change together.

with the cpu at 200mhz the dram is 100, 133, 166, 200mhz


 Well, it would be better if all the RAM is matching, because the RAM will only run as fast as the slowest chip. So just for testing purposes, run 2 *matching* 512 sticks. You more than likely wont notice a difference by adding the 2 256 sticks. So just leave them out.
With the CPU @ 200 run the DRAM setting @ 200. Then youll have a 1:1 ratio. As you increase the CPU clock youll want to lower the DRAM to 166 then 133, depending on how high you can get the cpu clock to go. The goal here is to keep around 200, after upping the CPU clock.
As for the HT (multithreading) its normal run speed is 1000mhz (1ghz) @ 200 cpu clock. As you raise the cpu clock the HT will raise with it. So once you start upping the CPU lower your HT to 800. Then every time you up the cpu clock get in to windows then run CPUZ. You'll want to keep HT below 1000mhz, anything between 750 and 1000 mhz is fine really. You wont notice a difference there either.
So in a nutshell, set your HT to 800, set your DRAM to 166, then add 10 mhz to your CPU clock. Once in windows, run cpuz check your settings make sure RAM is below 200 and HT below 1000. Run orthos, OCCT or SnM for about 5 minutes (watch temps in coretemp, if you havent downloaded it do so here), you wants core temp to stay below 65*C). Make sure its stable. Then add 10more mhz to the cpu clock.

Whats your vcore set to? Because the more you up your core voltage the lower your max temp will be.

Hope this helps


----------



## mudd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Evil Eddie*


1ghz inthe multithread is what crashed my system i thaught, or did it crash due to the ram being odd sizes? would it be better to have 2x512 and 2x256? i have ram chips out the wazzoo over here(old ones). i will take the chips out and try that, the dram options are 133mhz untill i start changing the cpu clock. they change together.

with the cpu at 200mhz the dram is 100, 133, 166, 200mhz


AMD memory controllers on s939 don't like more than 2 sticks of memory, and your system will perform a lot better w/ a set of matched memory to get the same timings.


----------



## TestECull

Eddie: That's why I reccomended the sticks I did in your thread. AMD S939 IMC's do funny things with more than two sticks, and dual channel will nearly double your memory bandwidth.


----------



## Evil Eddie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well, it would be better if all the RAM is matching, because the RAM will only run as fast as the slowest chip. So just for testing purposes, run 2 *matching* 512 sticks. You more than likely wont notice a difference by adding the 2 256 sticks. So just leave them out.
With the CPU @ 200 run the DRAM setting @ 200. Then youll have a 1:1 ratio. As you increase the CPU clock youll want to lower the DRAM to 166 then 133, depending on how high you can get the cpu clock to go. The goal here is to keep around 200, after upping the CPU clock.
As for the HT (multithreading) its normal run speed is 1000mhz (1ghz) @ 200 cpu clock. As you raise the cpu clock the HT will raise with it. So once you start upping the CPU lower your HT to 800. Then every time you up the cpu clock get in to windows then run CPUZ. You'll want to keep HT below 1000mhz, anything between 750 and 1000 mhz is fine really. You wont notice a difference there either.
So in a nutshell, set your HT to 800, set your DRAM to 166, then add 10 mhz to your CPU clock. Once in windows, run cpuz check your settings make sure RAM is below 200 and HT below 1000. Run orthos, OCCT or SnM for about 5 minutes (watch temps in coretemp, if you havent downloaded it do so here), you wants core temp to stay below 65*C). Make sure its stable. Then add 10more mhz to the cpu clock.

Whats your vcore set to? Because the more you up your core voltage the lower your max temp will be.

Hope this helps










vcore temp is default at 1.4, seen people raise it to 1.5 should i? and thank you sooo much on that little discription, i followd that one pretty well.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mudd*


AMD memory controllers on s939 don't like more than 2 sticks of memory, and your system will perform a lot better w/ a set of matched memory to get the same timings.


ok, thank you


----------



## TestECull

Eddie: 1.65V with water or good/lucky/ballsy air cooling is not unheard of. I ran mine there, two weeks. Mine never showed signs of problems till it got above 60C, then it started to degrade internally.


----------



## mudd

i ran 1.65-1.7v on my venice core when i was trying to blow it up, but it withstood it.

no matter what cooling you have, its bad to run your proc though at that high of voltage. it may appear to run fine, but all the little transistors inside your core are degrading and frying. fun fun fun for everyone.


----------



## TestECull

Idunno, mudd. Mine held up fine at 1.65V while I could keep the temps below 60C. I took it up to my aunt's place, however, and within six hours it degraded to the point Windows wouldn't boot at 2.76GHz anymore. I lucked out, it runs fine at stock now.

It was more stable at that OC than it was at stock before hand!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Evil Eddie*


vcore temp is default at 1.4, seen people raise it to 1.5 should i? and thank you sooo much on that little discription, i followd that one pretty well.

ok, thank you


 If I'm not mistaken the default vcore for the venice core is 1.35/1.40v, at least thats what it is for my 3500+. You dont need to raise this value until you start getting BSOD's in windows. But remember, once you start adding voltage, your MAX allowable temp goes down. So @ stock vcore lets say your max is 65*C, at 1.45v itll probably be more like 60*C if not 55*c, this is just a guesstimate, since I dont have enough info to make a legitmate assesment. The MAX temp could be higher or lower. So until you get some really good CPU cooler Id say dont raise the vcore, in order to keep from degrading the CPU. Then once you get a good cooler, start upping the voltage. 
As for testing, I personally like to use SnM. It tells me exactly where it failed as opposed to Orthos or OCCT which doesnt tell me much of anything. Just that it failed, because of some rounding crap. What does that mean to me? Not a damn thing. Theres no useful information to be had there. 
Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Eddie, I just did a search and come to find out your default vcore is actually 1.30/1.35v.
So drop your voltage to 1.35v.


----------



## TestECull

Omega: Blitz actually did some calcumalatin' on this very subject, and altho he called his science "Junk science", my Venice backed it up. At 1.5Vcore, max temp is 65, at 1.4 it's 71, at 1.65(Where I was running), it was 60, and my Venice running fine untill it exceeded that backed up nicely his evidence. He still calls it junk science, tho...

Basically, what he did was calc the TDP, then he did some equations while my mind plotted them on Y=mx+b, and we both came up with a fairly linear line you could plot the theoretical max temp at a given TDP, and it was right about the same spot. He used a TDP of 69W, I think, to start...Blitz, wanna share your junk science again?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
Omega: Blitz actually did some calcumalatin' on this very subject, and altho he called his science "Junk science", my Venice backed it up. At 1.5Vcore, max temp is 65, at 1.4 it's 71, at 1.65(Where I was running), it was 60, and my Venice running fine untill it exceeded that backed up nicely his evidence. He still calls it junk science, tho...

Basically, what he did was calc the TDP, then he did some equations while my mind plotted them on Y=mx+b, and we both came up with a fairly linear line you could plot the theoretical max temp at a given TDP, and it was right about the same spot. He used a TDP of 69W, I think, to start...Blitz, wanna share your junk science again?
















That's because many variables were not incorporated into his figuring. IOW If the question was linear then he would have been close but that doesn't mean his junk science can not be used as a good guesstimate.


----------



## TestECull

His junk science is so perfectly backed up by my accidental hard evidence tho...







It is 100% reasonable to use it to try to protect your proc, as it's going to be off on the safe side instead of the unsafe one in any voltage range someone on air will use.

On a side note: I'm sure the graph is actually sinusoidal or something similar, but I'm no math guru so I haven't the feintest clue about it, but I'm sure it's curved all to hell. Going on a linear path, you'd have a 49W proc being safe to 90C, and AMD's tech docs state an absolute max temp of 71C, and I'm sure when you start pushing 2V through them, the graph curves radically yet again, to the point where LN2 is needed to prevent insta-fry. Linear would put the max temp to 40C or so(Rough guess), which is easily enough done with high-end water, maybe TEC-assisted.

Here's the start of the convo, between me and Blitz, where this science occurred


----------



## Evil Eddie

ok, my vcore volt is at 1.4 cpu is at 2.7 here are screeners of cpu-z
here and here right after i took the pic. prime95 shut off, it wasnt even done, is that bad? for some reason i get the bsod at 2.7 no matter how i get there, could that be caused by high voltage? (ac/dc lol) cuz i kept setting the vcore volts to 1.5 thinking some one told me to do that when OCing.


----------



## BlackOmega

From what Ive found personally, and not neccessarily having to do with computers, is that most things are not linear in relation to temp or voltage. But typically have a curve. I would imagine that this would as well. But just like Blitz called his junk science, I too do not have enough info to make any sort of accurate calculation. 
But I kind of go by the rule of thumb that +0.05v=-5*c, +.10v=-11*c,+0.15=-17*c and so on. Im probably way off but whatever


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Evil Eddie*


ok, my vcore volt is at 1.4 cpu is at 2.7 here are screeners of cpu-z
here and here right after i took the pic. prime95 shut off, it wasnt even done, is that bad? for some reason i get the bsod at 2.7 no matter how i get there, could that be caused by high voltage? (ac/dc lol) cuz i kept setting the vcore volts to 1.5 thinking some one told me to do that when OCing.


 Drop your voltage to 1.35v and see if itll POST. And what BSOD code did you get?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well, check it out. I think I may FINALLY be happy with my OC. And yes, I would like this to be on the roster







. I'm now S&M stable.


----------



## TestECull

Hey, fearless leaders, update meh in the rosters. I'm not bone stock.

Validation is in sig.


----------



## BlackOmega

FINALLY DONE!!!!!!!







So I spent a good portion of today lapping the Big Typhoon. Holy smoke this thing was off. I used up 3 full size sheets of 320 just getting it level. Then I took it all the way up to 2000, and its smoother than a babies butt now







Lets see how she does.

Sorry bout the poor pic quality, this camera suxorz.


----------



## Evil Eddie

what in the world is cpu/20 read in cpu-z in memory at fsb:dram

oh and would prime95 stop if you tried doing other things like psp9?

1.35v on my vcore wasnt cutting it, i kep[t raising it and now prime is running at 1.425v at 2.7


----------



## Evil Eddie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


FINALLY DONE!!!!!!!







So I spent a good portion of today lapping the Big Typhoon. Holy smoke this thing was off. I used up 3 full size sheets of 320 just getting it level. Then I took it all the way up to 2000, and its smoother than a babies butt now







Lets see how she does.

Sorry bout the poor pic quality, this camera suxorz.


very nice job, bet you can see your face in detail in that sink.


----------



## Evil Eddie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Drop your voltage to 1.35v and see if itll POST. And what BSOD code did you get?


nv4_disp.dll it the BSOD, im thinking my video card is ragging! its acting all weird. my 2nd monitor keeps flickering at start-up and i cant seem to get rid of the sli disabled pop up bubble.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Evil Eddie*


what in the world is cpu/20 read in cpu-z in memory at fsb:dram

oh and would prime95 stop if you tried doing other things like psp9?

1.35v on my vcore wasnt cutting it, i kep[t raising it and now prime is running at 1.425v at 2.7



Im not sure about prime95. Ive never used it. But when using orthos or OCCT if you tried to do anything with it running if anything was unstable it would just crash.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Evil Eddie*


very nice job, bet you can see your face in detail in that sink.


 You can


----------



## pioneerisloud

Alrighty guys, I guess Pio is not done tinkering with his rig yet.

I have PROVEN, that our rule of 1000MHz HT Link doesn't necessarily ring true in the past. However I am now stressing a record high (of my machine) of 1376MHz HT Link. So far, it is going good. For more info on my current overclock, check my sig rig.

Bascially, I am trying to ring the absolute MOST performance out of my rig as possible. With the 3x HT Multiplier, it gave me 1033, and was stable for 1 hour Orthos. I can't get ANYTHING up any higher. My CPU won't go higher with 4x1GB of RAM. My RAM won't go higher either with 4x1GB. Voltage is as low as it'll go and last on Orthos (on both CPU and RAM). Timings are as tight as they'll go and still POST. So the only other thing I had left to tinker with was my HT Link.

If this proves stable, then tomorrow I will have a stability post proving so. In the meantime, stay tuned







.

OC settings as of now:
344 x 8.5 = 2925MHz, 1.34v
344 x 4 HT Link = 1376MHz
133 Divider = 225MHz (DDR450), 2.5-3-2-5-2T (7/10), 2.85v

This is a 62% overclock on my CPU, and a 72% overclock on the bus (motherboard). Not to mention my HT Link is overclocked, as is my RAM by 50MHz (unless you count that its DDR333 stock by default).

Anyways, I will of course keep you guys updated







. I'm still tinkering and stressing as of now.


----------



## Evil Eddie

i have another goofy question:

should we let the BSOD finish dumping??? i keep getting nv4 ones, last time was nv4_mini


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Evil Eddie*


i have another goofy question:

should we let the BSOD finish dumping??? i keep getting nv4 ones, last time was nv4_mini


Lol, I never do. If I get a BSOD, I immediately hit my reset switch to fix the problem (usually my OC is too high, or voltage isn't high enough).


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Evil Eddie* 
nv4_disp.dll it the BSOD, im thinking my video card is ragging! its acting all weird. my 2nd monitor keeps flickering at start-up and i cant seem to get rid of the sli disabled pop up bubble.

OK when you get the BSOD the info Im lookin for is the 0x0000001E or whatever the number is. But Pio is right, you typically get it because your OC is unstable and more than likely need to up the voltage slightly.

Do you have the SLI bridge on the cards?


----------



## thlnk3r

BlackOmega, nice looken lap job









I think it's time you mounted that puppy and show us some results.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Evil Eddie* 
nv4_disp.dll it the BSOD, im thinking my video card is ragging! its acting all weird. my 2nd monitor keeps flickering at start-up and i cant seem to get rid of the sli disabled pop up bubble.

Evil Eddie, is this issue occurring on stock clocks? The BSOD's may indicated an unstable overclock. Try completely removing the other video card and see if that helps.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *azim* 
Need help! I have read several guides, and watched some video guides, but I still don't know how to overclock my CPU. I think that I got different BIOS setup than most people. Can anybody link me nice guide which works with my motherboards bios?

Azim, I apologize you weren't helped earlier. Perhaps this guide for your motherboard may provide some assistance: ASUS A8V Deluxe Overclocking Guide.

It's very in depth so get ready for some reading. If you have any questions please feel free to ask them here.

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, nice looken lap job









I think it's time you mounted that puppy and show us some results.

Thanx!








Allright results are in.... and its not quite as good as I hoped it'd be. But every little bit helps, my idle temps are actually higher, 32*c and my mobo temps increased 2*c to 31* but then again this thing is only 16db







my wife is happy about it too.







. My rig is soo quiet now







I can barely hear it sittin a foot away from me.
Now as far as load temps go, dropped a good 10*C. The AS5 needs to "burn in" yet though. But so far so good. I was thinking about lappin the opty. Im gonna practice on my Venice first, run it on my Lanparty when it shows up, then Im gonna pull the IHS off and see how much better that does. Never know I might just strip my opty if I like the results. I got it to 3.02 (hehe) but it kept failing L1 due to temps. I wanna see how high I can take this mamma jamma.


----------



## Evil Eddie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
OK when you get the BSOD the info Im lookin for is the 0x0000001E or whatever the number is. But Pio is right, you typically get it because your OC is unstable and more than likely need to up the voltage slightly.

Do you have the SLI bridge on the cards?

no sli, i only have one card. the cd that came with the card is what kept wanting to use the sli. i downloaded the newest beta for gfource and everything is fine atm. bsod was caused by the vid drivers im pretty sure now. i always restart as soon as bsod starts.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, nice looken lap job









Evil Eddie, is this issue occurring on stock clocks? The BSOD's may indicated an unstable overclock. Try completely removing the other video card and see if that helps.
Good luck

the bsod was occurring OCed, but now it no longer does that, it kept throwing a fatal error on prime, so i kept upping the volts and now at 1.425v 2700MHz x12 225Mhrz and 900MHz it has gone through 4 tests in prime now, no errors or hangs. woohoo


----------



## N2Gaming

Nice job to PIO and BO.

Well I spent the better part of the day dissasembling a nikon 7900 coolpix I purchased on ebay, it was practically brand new and came with all accessories but it had a lense error. The lense motion is defective but I managed to get it working so I would have my own digital camera to take with me to Texas when I go away for three weeks for a Holiday get away starting Monday.







I'll show a couple of pics of my pc stuff so I won't be completely off toppic. I figured I would stop in and say hi to all you s939'ers. HI!

Here is a couple of sli bridges I picked up for my DFI boards just in case. I know for sure the Tyan bridges will work on the sli dr boards and I'm hoping the balck bridges will work on the expert boards.









And of course the day would not be the same with out whiskers right there in my face wanting to know what I'm doing...


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Evil Eddie* 
no sli, i only have one card. the cd that came with the card is what kept wanting to use the sli. i downloaded the newest beta for gfource and everything is fine atm. bsod was caused by the vid drivers im pretty sure now. i always restart as soon as bsod starts.

the bsod was occurring OCed, but now it no longer does that, it kept throwing a fatal error on prime, so i kept upping the volts and now at 1.425v 2700MHz x12 225Mhrz and 900MHz it has gone through 4 tests in prime now, no errors or hangs. woohoo









Good job Eddie


----------



## N2Gaming

E.D., I'm glad to see you figured out the sli problem. I find it interesting by the fact that you installed new drivers and it updated your video card parameters in non sli with out that darn error.







I'll have to remember that one... It's also nice to see you getting it stable.


----------



## Evil Eddie

enjoy the vacation...

ok here is my cpu-z, but the darn prime just disapeared in the middle of the test, it has done that twice now. could it be doing that cuz im running it from the zip folder? well the results are ok at least, has not crashed, hanged, bsod'ed, or spittered. temp never went over 52c during test. should i rerun the test sense it shut off on me?

my video is still acting odd though, like when i move an icon it leaves a cut out line embedded untill i refresh and the screen still flickers like crazy at start up, not sure what could be causing that.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Evil Eddie*


enjoy the vacation...

ok here is my cpu-z, but the darn prime just disapeared in the middle of the test, it has done that twice now. could it be doing that cuz im running it from the zip folder? well the results are ok at least, has not crashed, hanged, bsod'ed, or spittered. temp never went over 52c during test. should i rerun the test sense it shut off on me?


Do you have everest ultimate. It helps you determine how effective your ram bandwidth is and will also show you most all of your rigs parameters in one screen from tools and cache & memory stress test.


----------



## Evil Eddie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Do you have everest ultimate. It helps you determine how effective your ram bandwidth is and will also show you most all of your rigs parameters in one screen from tools and cache & memory stress test.


got it, finely figured out some of it, but started the test and BSOD!!!! dum-duh-duuuuum.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Evil Eddie*


got it, finely figured out some of it, but started the test and BSOD!!!! dum-duh-duuuuum.


Suck's when other people get to laugh at your frustrations hua... why BSOD have you testing it at stock cpu and fsb speeds to rule out other problems?


----------



## Evil Eddie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Suck's when other people get to laugh at your frustrations hua... why BSOD have you testing it at stock cpu and fsb speeds to rule out other problems?


lol... no i aint tested it at stock. and i keep forgetting to jot down the bsod reasoning. i upped the volts again and am rerunning everest test. volts at 1.45 temp is 47c

0x00000050 is the bsod i get


----------



## majakone

Quick question , did you ever even out your ram sticks ? {only run 2 sticks}







i know its early but , are you running 3-512s and 1-256? {looking at your sig.}


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Azim, I apologize you weren't helped earlier. Perhaps this guide for your motherboard may provide some assistance: ASUS A8V Deluxe Overclocking Guide.


I'm afraid azim's BIOS looks a bit different. The A8V Deluxe motherboard has the VIA K8T800Pro chipset and comes with an AMI BIOS while according to txtmstrjoe azim's A8V-E SE is a VIA K8T890 and it even comes with a Phoenix Award BIOS.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Evil Eddie*


enjoy the vacation...

ok here is my cpu-z, but the darn prime just disapeared in the middle of the test, it has done that twice now. could it be doing that cuz im running it from the zip folder? well the results are ok at least, has not crashed, hanged, bsod'ed, or spittered. temp never went over 52c during test. should i rerun the test sense it shut off on me?

my video is still acting odd though, like when i move an icon it leaves a cut out line embedded untill i refresh and the screen still flickers like crazy at start up, not sure what could be causing that.



Eddie, what do you got your RAM setting at? I just looked at your cpuz and youre running about half as fast as you should be. Check the setting in your BIOS.


----------



## Evil Eddie

i did take out my ram, i am running 2x512 and i could turn my ram setting up a notch but i wana get stable before i go confusing myself with more tweaks to remember that i did.


----------



## BlackOmega

That could be the reason that when you move an icon that it leaves its impression. When you click the memory tab, where it says DRAM fequency, thats where you want it to be 200. Thats the default setting for your memory. Setting it to as close as possible to 200 will considerably improve your overall performance.


----------



## majakone

Hes never going to get anywhere running 3-512s and 1-256 ram , look at his sig























OOPS MY BAD MISSED THE POST WHERE HE SAID GE CHANGED IT .......SORRY


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


That could be the reason that when you move an icon that it leaves its impression. When you click the memory tab, where it says DRAM fequency, thats where you want it to be 200. Thats the default setting for your memory. Setting it to as close as possible to 200 will considerably improve your overall performance.


If he is overclcoking his rig then I believe putting his ram at ddr200 would create more instability. I thought he had lowered it so he could raise his fsb and HT.???


----------



## TestECull

If his ram defaults at 200mhz, it won't make it any more unstable. if anything, it will stabilize things.


----------



## N2Gaming

oh, ok then do what they say.


----------



## pez

So, I've noticed that the redlines (1gb) stick has gone down to $40, and I'm thinking about grabbing another gig. Would do you guys think? Would it help me out any? Or should I just put it towards that new case?


----------



## N2Gaming

Well more memory is usually better but for overclocking it might not be. Also if your mobo will support double data rate for 1 stick is the most important question. you system may show that you have all 3 gig but your pc might use that one stick in single channel and thus cause instability in the memory controller between using both single and double data rate in the system. That's just my two penny's worth and my knowledge is worth about that much so take it with a grain of salt or what ever expression you like. Hope this helps.


----------



## Evil Eddie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


That could be the reason that when you move an icon that it leaves its impression. When you click the memory tab, where it says DRAM fequency, thats where you want it to be 200. Thats the default setting for your memory. Setting it to as close as possible to 200 will considerably improve your overall performance.


my dram is at 187 cpu 225 x12 cpu vcore 1.425 (with only 2 sticks of 512 RAM









) runs awsome till i start stress testing it. oh and HTT is at 900

Quote:



Originally Posted by *majakone*


Hes never going to get anywhere running 3-512s and 1-256 ram , look at his sig























OOPS MY BAD MISSED THE POST WHERE HE SAID GE CHANGED IT .......SORRY


im guessing i should change my sig.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Evil Eddie*


my dram is at 187 cpu 225 x12 cpu vcore 1.425 (with only 2 sticks of 512 RAM







) runs awsome till i start stress testing it. oh and HTT is at 900

im guessing i should change my sig.


E.D. Do your self a big favor and find out your default ram timings. You can usually see them from cpuz memory spd tab.







then you can adjust your timings accordingly. Also you may be able to loosen them up a bit to either run ddr200 in bios and reach faster dram spd's when you up you cpu spd.


----------



## majakone

, just testing a 2-1gb set of OCZ Platinums {3200} they seems to clock more stable than my DDR500s with much tighter timmings DDR500 @ 2.5-3-2-5 1T with the OCZ 400s as opposed to DDR550 @ 3-4-4-8 1T with my sig ram , any thoughts ? need to make a decission what to keep and what to get rid of







I have 2-1gb OCZ PLATIMUM DDR400 / 2-1gb G_SKILL DDR500 / 4-512mb CORSAIR DDR550 / 2-1gb MUSHKIN PRO DDR500 / 2-1gb CORSAIR DDR500







collected over the years any advice?


----------



## Evil Eddie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


E.D. Do your self a big favor and find out your default ram timings. You can usually see them from cpuz memory spd tab.







then you can adjust your timings accordingly. Also you may be able to loosen them up a bit to either run ddr200 in bios and reach faster dram spd's when you up you cpu spd.


ok so my timings table the highest freq. both chips say is 166mhz so then i change bios to 155?

what is the 1T? i seen that in my bios and its at 2T


----------



## majakone

Quote:



Originally Posted by *majakone*
















, just testing a 2-1gb set of OCZ Platinums {3200} they seems to clock more stable than my DDR500s with much tighter timmings DDR500 @ 2.5-3-2-5 1T with the OCZ 400s as opposed to DDR550 @ 3-4-4-8 1T with my sig ram , any thoughts ? need to make a decission what to keep and what to get rid of







I have 2-1gb OCZ PLATIMUM DDR400 / 2-1gb G_SKILL DDR500 / 4-512mb CORSAIR DDR550 / 2-1gb MUSHKIN PRO DDR500 / 2-1gb CORSAIR DDR500







collected over the years any advice?


Sorry just an edit , I dont have the reps yet to post in our for sale section { I dont have any actually} just thought id throw this out there


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Evil Eddie*


ok so my timings table the highest freq. both chips say is 166mhz so then i change bios to 155?

what is the 1T? i seen that in my bios and its at 2T


that is your commant rate. 1t will give you more snappiness but 2t is just fine for overclocking and stability. Also it looks as if your using value select ram. do they have heat spreaders on them or are they naked. if they are naked you may want to watch the temps of those little guys when you start overclocking them. you can touch the little ic chips to feel for heat but before you do that make sure you grab the chassis firmly to ground yourself so you don't emit a surge of static dischard and just be carefull not to touch any metal leads on the ram or any other metal ic's in your computer case. I'm thinking your ram timings may be the reason you were having instability issues... Good luck hope this helps


----------



## Evil Eddie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


that is your commant rate. 1t will give you more snappiness but 2t is just fine for overclocking and stability. Also it looks as if your using value select ram. do they have heat spreaders on them or are they naked. if they are naked you may want to watch the temps of those little guys when you start overclocking them. you can touch the little ic chips to feel for heat but before you do that make sure you grab the chassis firmly to ground yourself so you don't emit a surge of static dischard and just be carefull not to touch any metal leads on the ram or any other metal ic's in your computer case. I'm thinking your ram timings may be the reason you were having instability issues... Good luck hope this helps


so you think new ram would help out considerably? like 2 1gig sticks? my sticks are bare naked, and dont feel hot. according to search on the prime test results its a volt issue, results say "rounding was .5, expected less than .4 hardware failure detected" could the hardware be the ram?

how do i change my system stats?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Evil Eddie* 
so you think new ram would help out considerably? like 2 1gig sticks? my sticks are bare naked, and dont feel hot. according to search on the prime test results its a volt issue, results say "rounding was .5, expected less than .4 hardware failure detected" could the hardware be the ram?

how do i change my system stats?

These would be nice if you can use them in your system. I'm using These and I have no complaints thus far. Hopefully these are ram modules made after they had all those problems a couple of years ago. I'm am able to get these at 3.3.3.8 1T DDR500 with out breaking a sweat. if you use ddr500 ram your timings will be slower but from what I can see it helps with your overall overclock and when I tie it all together I end up with significantly better permormance then with my 2gig kit ocz plats.


----------



## Blitz6804

Not really here, just a few quick things:

Orthos is a GUI for Prime95; they are one and the same otherwise.

Pez: 3x1024 is a bad idea: you will run single-channel mode. You have a 64-bit OS, why not just get another pair so you stay dual-channel mode? (I am still selling the pair if you want them.)

All: RAM is bad in mismatched densities. 2x512 or 4x512 is fine, 2x512+2x256 may work, but it is a poor idea. NEVER run an odd number of DIMMs on an AMD processor: the single-channel KILLS the bandwidth. (Intel also takes a hit, but not as bad as dual-channel mode only adds around 40% over single-channel mode as apposed to AMD's 85-100%.) An L1 failure in S&M usually means the CPU voltage is not high enough.

Pioneer: if your 13xx MHz hypertransport is unstable, try adding HT Overvolt. I need to overvolt my hypertransport to make 1250 stable.

All: "Multi-threading" does not refer to hypertransport. It refers to multiple CPUs or Hyperthreading (Intel only). Thus, if you are running an improperly drivered-dual core and it is causing problems, disabling one core for a game will fix that.

I-do-not-remember-who: a 1000 MHz setting for Hypertransport in the BIOS means 5xHTT. HTT is by default 200, thus, 1000. If HTT is 250, 5x250 = 1250 (my current) and is often too high. Dropping it to 800 is 4x, thus, 4x250 = 1000.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Not really here, just a few quick things:

Orthos is a GUI for Prime95; they are one and the same otherwise.

Pez: 3x1024 is a bad idea: you will run single-channel mode. You have a 64-bit OS, why not just get another pair so you stay dual-channel mode? (I am still selling the pair if you want them.)

All: RAM is bad in mismatched densities. 2x512 or 4x512 is fine, 2x512+2x256 may work, but it is a poor idea. NEVER run an odd number of DIMMs on an AMD processor: the single-channel KILLS the bandwidth. (Intel also takes a hit, but not as bad as dual-channel mode only adds around 40% over single-channel mode as apposed to AMD's 85-100%.) An L1 failure in S&M usually means the CPU voltage is not high enough.

Pioneer: if your 13xx MHz hypertransport is unstable, try adding HT Overvolt. I need to overvolt my hypertransport to make 1250 stable.

All: "Multi-threading" does not refer to hypertransport. It refers to multiple CPUs or Hyperthreading (Intel only). Thus, if you are running an improperly drivered-dual core and it is causing problems, disabling one core for a game will fix that.

I-do-not-remember-who: a 1000 MHz setting for Hypertransport in the BIOS means 5xHTT. HTT is by default 200, thus, 1000. If HTT is 250, 5x250 = 1250 (my current) and is often too high. Dropping it to 800 is 4x, thus, 4x250 = 1000.

Perfect. all summed up in a nicely packaged nutshell. LOL I'm a nut but sometimes I eat mounds.


----------



## Evil Eddie

here is my dram timing settings in bios, is this what you guys are talking about on lowering the ram settings?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Evil Eddie* 
here is my dram timing settings in bios, is this what you guys are talking about on lowering the ram settings?

++







those be your timings.














This is another place to adjust your ram according to your stock spd's. Have you passed any othos or any other benchmark yet. As I mentioned earlier you may want to defalut and run static settings at your hardwares default stock settings for all your hardware and run bench marks to make sure you don't have other existing problems. You may also want to run a quick memtest86+ to rule out bad ram. hope this helps. I'll give you rep if you post a 24 hour stable machine with proof.


----------



## Evil Eddie

ok so should i change something in there to help the ram out?


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Evil Eddie* 
here is my dram timing settings in bios, is this what you guys are talking about on lowering the ram settings?

Try:
CL=3.0
8T
4T
4T


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Evil Eddie* 









ok so should i change something in there to help the ram out?

Edit:


----------



## Evil Eddie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
++







those be your timings.














This is another place to adjust your ram according to your stock spd's. Have you passed any othos or any other benchmark yet. As I mentioned earlier you may want to defalut and run static settings at your hardwares default stock settings for all your hardware and run bench marks to make sure you don't have other existing problems. You may also want to run a quick memtest86+ to rule out bad ram. hope this helps. I'll give you rep if you post a 24 hour stable machine with proof.









hey im doing good getting a 10 minute stable machine here, lol.

i have not ran the test at stock yet, i ran memtest a while back and it had a problem but that was after flashing the bios with a screwed up awdflash.

_ok, i'll test in stock for 24 hours, muawhahaha... i'll get that rep!_


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Evil Eddie* 
hey im doing good getting a 10 minute stable machine here, lol.

i have not ran the test at stock yet, i ran memtest a while back and it had a problem but that was after flashing the bios with a screwed up awdflash.

_ok, i'll test in stock for 24 hours, muawhahaha... i'll get that rep!_

LOL testing 24 hours just for rep+ is worth giving you rep in my books. At least that way you'll know your stuff in up to snuff.


----------



## Evil Eddie

you mean the test has to go on for 24hrs? 100% load on the cpu for 24hrs, now im scared.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Evil Eddie* 
you mean the test has to go on for 24hrs? 100% load on the cpu for 24hrs, now im scared.

Bock bock chickenlittle. come on man get it stable and prove that you are learning here and not just getting us to help with chit chat. rep is earned buddy.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Not really here, just a few quick things:

Orthos is a GUI for Prime95; they are one and the same otherwise.

Pez: 3x1024 is a bad idea: you will run single-channel mode. You have a 64-bit OS, why not just get another pair so you stay dual-channel mode? (I am still selling the pair if you want them.)

All: RAM is bad in mismatched densities. 2x512 or 4x512 is fine, 2x512+2x256 may work, but it is a poor idea. NEVER run an odd number of DIMMs on an AMD processor: the single-channel KILLS the bandwidth. (Intel also takes a hit, but not as bad as dual-channel mode only adds around 40% over single-channel mode as apposed to AMD's 85-100%.) An L1 failure in S&M usually means the CPU voltage is not high enough.

Pioneer: if your 13xx MHz hypertransport is unstable, try adding HT Overvolt. I need to overvolt my hypertransport to make 1250 stable.

All: "Multi-threading" does not refer to hypertransport. It refers to multiple CPUs or Hyperthreading (Intel only). Thus, if you are running an improperly drivered-dual core and it is causing problems, disabling one core for a game will fix that.

I-do-not-remember-who: a 1000 MHz setting for Hypertransport in the BIOS means 5xHTT. HTT is by default 200, thus, 1000. If HTT is 250, 5x250 = 1250 (my current) and is often too high. Dropping it to 800 is 4x, thus, 4x250 = 1000.

Ah, I thought you ended up getting them sold. One thing I noticed, the part number is 991492 on the one's I have, and on newegg the single 1gb stick is 991492 and rated at 3-3-2-7 instead of what the 2x1gb sticks show (3-3-2-8). I may have to try those timings out







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Evil Eddie* 
you mean the test has to go on for 24hrs? 100% load on the cpu for 24hrs, now im scared.

Sorry I could not help but to poke fun at you. Server systems run cpu loads 24/7 all the time and they are just fine. if your rig is stable you should have no problems or be scared of running a test for 24 hours. it's just too bad it's winter time. summer would give you a better results with the ambient temps differing from morning to mid after noon and well into the night your ambient room temperatures will fluctuate and cause you system temps to fluctuate with the ambient room temps.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Bock bock chickenlittle. come on man get it stable and prove that you are learning here and not just getting us to help with chit chat. rep is earned buddy.


----------



## Evil Eddie

believe me, i am learning here. but i still aint figured out how to change my system in my sig here.

it has been testing through prime for ummmm, i aint figured out how to find that out, but its been going on sense he suggested a 24hr run. almost an hour now. im running it through the test that does cpu and ram on prime95.48c steady, 2411MHz core, 803MHz HT link, 1.4v core, cpu/18 2.5,4,2,8,16 i hope that helps for you guys to know what my stock is.

oh, and im not here just for help in overclocking! i first came here for that after searching on how to OC, but then i seen all the other options here and the guys that mods cases (are fricken awsome i should add) im always tinkering with puters, building them and what not, and there for i have questions alot. and if it wasnt for this forum i'd still be using my 1.75gigs of ram and not understanding why it aint helping none.


----------



## Evil Eddie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Sorry I could not help but to poke fun at you. Server systems run cpu loads 24/7 all the time and they are just fine. if your rig is stable you should have no problems or be scared of running a test for 24 hours. it's just too bad it's winter time. summer would give you a better results with the ambient temps differing from morning to mid after noon and well into the night your ambient room temperatures will fluctuate and cause you system temps to fluctuate with the ambient room temps.

my computer is not what im scared of, its the fact of not being able to finish installing my garbage on there or games cuz its testing, im bored... i have fixed what ever needs to be fixed in the house, cept for the costly things.

and my misery is ones playtime, lol









but i'll tell you what, im gana get that rep point, then back to OCing. lol


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Evil Eddie* 
believe me, i am learning here. but i still aint figured out how to change my system in my sig here.

it has been testing through prime for ummmm, i aint figured out how to find that out, but its been going on sense he suggested a 24hr run. almost an hour now. im running it through the test that does cpu and ram on prime95.48c steady, 2411MHz core, 803MHz HT link, 1.4v core, cpu/18 2.5,4,2,8,16 i hope that helps for you guys to know what my stock is.

oh, and im not here just for help in overclocking! i first came here for that after searching on how to OC, but then i seen all the other options here and the guys that mods cases (are fricken awsome i should add) im always tinkering with puters, building them and what not, and there for i have questions alot. and if it wasnt for this forum i'd still be using my 1.75gigs of ram and not understanding why it aint helping none.

Thanks. I for one am glad you have been learning from all of us here. I would like to think I played a part in that. In any case your learning and that's what counts. scroll to the top of this page and click on the user cp tab. then look to the left of the page for edit system. that will allow you to edit or even add as many computer your heart so desires.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Evil Eddie*


i first came here for that after searching on how to OC, but then i seen all the other options here and the guys that mods cases (are fricken awsome i should add) im always tinkering with puters, building them and what not, and there for i have questions alot. and if it wasnt for this forum i'd still be using my 1.75gigs of ram and not understanding why it aint helping none.


Not to toot my own horn but have you seen my current project seen HERE or also in my sig


----------



## TestECull

Guys, strange equation here.

Firefox running music stream and 5-8 OCN tabs + Garry's Mod = rock stable.
Firefox running music stream and only 3 OCN tabs, one speedtest.net tab + Left 4 Dead = Bluescreen

The bluescreen was "Clock something something not recieved on secondary processor", aka Core 1 crashed.

Upped CPU volts slightly, went back into L4D and no bluescreen. Here's hoping that's all it was...

Eddie: Ghetto mods. They are something we all do, and something you will pick up. Remember these words

Zip Ties, duck tape, commando case.

Don't be afraid to change that 3-pin fan to 4pin, don't be afraid to fab up power adapters if you need to, and don't be afraid to zip tie fans onto things. We all do it. I've got a fan on my GPU that's using an impellor from an entirely differant brand of fan(Only similarity is the diameter of the blades, and of the motor). Works fine.









FYI: A commando case is simply running your computer on the box the mobo came in, or on some sort of non-conducting item. It's great for testing purposes and it doesn't hurt the system any.


----------



## zacbrain

my god, just found a fx-51 on craigslist for 30$... hmm


----------



## pez

You better do that, and then resell it on ebay and grab something better







.


----------



## zacbrain

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


You better do that, and then resell it on ebay and grab something better







.


funny thing is hes like overselling everything else there. lol. but hes in north dallas. boo, im too broke to go.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *zacbrain*


funny thing is hes like overselling everything else there. lol. but hes in north dallas. boo, im too broke to go.


 heck ask if he'll do paypal and snail it to you.


----------



## TestECull

Dude just buy it and pay him to ship it to you. Seriously, FX-51. That thing will ebay for 2x what you buy it for.


----------



## zacbrain

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


Dude just buy it and pay him to ship it to you. Seriously, FX-51. That thing will ebay for 2x what you buy it for.


haha i know, logic got the best of me. cept i has no paypal :/

if hes like 20+miles money order time.
edit: bah, relized its 940... i kinda wanted to use it for myself. lol

oh well. ill let some other person grab it.


----------



## N2Gaming

Something smells fishy here. You would not be posing as a buyer when your really the seller trying to point all the s939'ers to the craigslist post in dallas would you.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Evil Eddie* 
hey im doing good getting a 10 minute stable machine here, lol.

i have not ran the test at stock yet, i ran memtest a while back and it had a problem but that was after flashing the bios with a screwed up awdflash.

_ok, i'll test in stock for 24 hours, muawhahaha... i'll get that rep!_

Speaking of rep+......wheres mine


----------



## N2Gaming

beggers can't be choosers!!!


----------



## Evil Eddie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Not to toot my own horn but have you seen my current project seen HERE or also in my sig

ya, just checked it out. you know, i was thinking about sticking a switch on my cmos jumpers, once you see my case you will realize why its kind of a pain to take the thing off and on. a switch underneath console or hidden in front would be kind of handy i just didnt know if it would work the same.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Something smells fishy here. You would not be posing as a buyer when your really the seller trying to point all the s939'ers to the craigslist post in dallas would you.



















Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Speaking of rep+......wheres mine









can i give rep to some one?

oh and my test is still running 5hrs later. i did some work on my saltwater set up waiting for it


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Evil Eddie* 
ya, just checked it out. you know, i was thinking about sticking a switch on my cmos jumpers, once you see my case you will realize why its kind of a pain to take the thing off and on. a switch underneath console or hidden in front would be kind of handy i just didnt know if it would work the same.










can i give rep to some one?

oh and my test is still running 5hrs later. i did some work on my saltwater set up waiting for it

sure can all you haVE TO DO IS CLICK ON THE LITTLE REP BUTTEN TO THE LOWER LEFT OF THERE POST SORRY FOR CAPS NOT YELLING JUST ONR FIGERING IT WITH A SILVER BULLET IN MY OTHER HAND!


----------



## majakone

Quote:


Originally Posted by *majakone* 














, just testing a 2-1gb set of OCZ Platinums {3200} they seems to clock more stable than my DDR500s with much tighter timmings DDR500 @ 2.5-3-2-5 1T with the OCZ 400s as opposed to DDR550 @ 3-4-4-8 1T with my sig ram , ANY THOUGHTS ? need to make a decission what to keep and what to get rid of







I have 2-1gb OCZ PLATIMUM DDR400 / 2-1gb G_SKILL DDR500 / 4-512mb CORSAIR DDR550 / 2-1gb MUSHKIN PRO DDR500 / 2-1gb CORSAIR DDR500







collected over the years ANY ADVICE ?


Well evidently everyone here is in their own little click or something , since ive asked several questions / opinions here over the past few weeks and for some reason my posts just get passed over .... Maybe cause im the new guy on the block or something .... Well anyway , I hope everyone has a safe and happy holiday , ill be moving on to try and find another forum somewhere where theres alittle more interaction ......


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *majakone* 
Well evidently everyone here is in their own little click or something , since ive asked several questions / opinions here over the past few weeks and for some reason my posts just get passed over .... Maybe cause im the new guy on the block or something .... Well anyway , I hope everyone has a safe and happy holiday , ill be moving on to try and find another forum somewhere where theres alittle more interaction ......

So sorry to hear you feel that way. It is sunday and many members may be busy. I don't think you should move on. I believe I did answere you in regards to your ram. I can't speak for the members who partake in this thread let a lone the whole forum. Man that's really sad. This is not the only thread on this forum. However I do believe it to be one of the more popular ones. Any way this is my last post for the night as I am packed and heading out the door to my mom's house so that we can board a plane in the morning. Happy Hollidays Peeps.







Keep it safe.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
So sorry to hear you feel that way. It is sunday and many members may be busy. I don't think you should move on. I believe I did answere you in regards to your ram. I can't speak for the members who partake in this thread let a lone the whole forum. Man that's really sad. This is not the only thread on this forum. However I do believe it to be one of the more popular ones. Any way this is my last post for the night as I am packed and heading out the door to my mom's house so that we can board a plane in the morning. Happy Hollidays Peeps.







Keep it safe.

Have a good trip and be safe


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *majakone* 
Well evidently everyone here is in their own little click or something , since ive asked several questions / opinions here over the past few weeks and for some reason my posts just get passed over .... Maybe cause im the new guy on the block or something .... Well anyway , I hope everyone has a safe and happy holiday , ill be moving on to try and find another forum somewhere where theres alittle more interaction ......

Are the mushkin's redlines? Sorry I know you said "pro", but just curious.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *majakone* 
Well evidently everyone here is in their own little click or something , since ive asked several questions / opinions here over the past few weeks and for some reason my posts just get passed over .... Maybe cause im the new guy on the block or something .... Well anyway , I hope everyone has a safe and happy holiday , ill be moving on to try and find another forum somewhere where theres alittle more interaction ......

Sorry man, I didnt see your post eariler.









As for what RAM to keep? Keep the one that works the best of course. Id say which ever set OC's the highest/best. Like with my Kingston Hyperx (4x512) I can run my board up higher than the corsair XMS I have which is only single channel. Granted, I can run the XMS @ 1T though. So your question is a tough one to answer really.

I think another reason people didnt answer you is there just wasnt very many people on today. I just kept thinkin, where the hell is everybody?

Hope you dont leave bro.


----------



## BlackOmega

Well guys I just bought yet another mobo, my wife is gonna think Im







, lol.
Check this board out.

Goin crossfire this time


----------



## pez

Damn. Ok, here's what happened. I decided to try 2.65ghz again and this time I tried many combinations. What seemed to help most, oddly, was upping the vcore to 1.5v. I tried upping the nb/sb to 1.68 but all my computer would do at best was run windows for a good 2-5 minutes, then lock. I tried setting my divi down to 166:200, and even loosened my timings. Without the upped vcore though, i wouldn't get past the windows vista loading screen (like xp w/ the green bar running across).


----------



## BlackOmega

Yeah you need more vcore to get more out of it. Upping the chipset voltage isnt really needed it seems. With the CPU cooling we have we'll never be able to get up high enough in order to need to overvolt. I was able to get my board to 336mhz without having to overvolt.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *majakone* 
Well evidently everyone here is in their own little click or something , since ive asked several questions / opinions here over the past few weeks and for some reason my posts just get passed over .... Maybe cause im the new guy on the block or something .... Well anyway , I hope everyone has a safe and happy holiday , ill be moving on to try and find another forum somewhere where theres alittle more interaction ......

majakone, I can assure you that there is no such thing as "cliques" in this Club. As N2G has said, it is the weekend, and we do have our lives outside of OCN.







I know I've been quite scarce lately, and this has been due to work and family needs. No one is ignored deliberately, though with the sheer volume of posts this thread generates it's inevitable that some issues will fall through the cracks and will not receive attention.

A gentle reminder, though, is always welcome.

Now, for your issue on hand, which set of RAM do you keep, and which do you dispose of? If I was in your situation, I have two options: 1) Keep all, and test them all for their capabilities; use the best set 24/7, and hold the rest as spares (good DDR will be gone from the market before long, with DDR2 becoming cheaper all the time and DDR3 about to go mainstream); or 2) Run your performance tests on all of them and simply keep the one set you want.

Which set is the keeper? There is no concrete answer to give without knowing what each of these will do with your CPU and motherboard combination. If there's one thing I've learned about overclocking these S939 platforms, it's that each combination of parts is unique to itself. Even chips from the same stepping batch are not identical to its siblings (I know this for a fact). Some CPUs like certain RAM; some RAM with certain ICs work better with some motherboards; sometimes, you can have two of the same motherboard, but because of the differing CPUs the same RAM will just not work (look at Pio's A8N32-SLI Deluxe, which has some interesting quirks, and mine...).

Only testing will give you a definitive answer; and there is no substitute for absolutely knowing as opposed to just guessing.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Well guys I just bought yet another mobo, my wife is gonna think Im







, lol.
Check this board out.

Goin crossfire this time









BlackOmega, I see you're about to pick up a LANParty UT CFX3200.







You are a brave one. I have one of these in my collection, and it took several weeks worth of hard work to get it to run stable at stock clocks. I kid you not...

It's a very very demanding motherboard, and if the one you pick up is anything like mine and the myriad ones I've researched (over several months), you will get frustrated. But if you can get past the frustration, hopefully you can get yours humming.







I wish you luck.

Very soon I'll have mine overclocking. I was so frustrated with mine I set it aside for a while...


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


BlackOmega, I see you're about to pick up a LANParty UT CFX3200.







You are a brave one. I have one of these in my collection, and it took several weeks worth of hard work to get it to run stable at stock clocks. I kid you not...

It's a very very demanding motherboard, and if the one you pick up is anything like mine and the myriad ones I've researched (over several months), you will get frustrated. But if you can get past the frustration, hopefully you can get yours humming.







I wish you luck.

Very soon I'll have mine overclocking. I was so frustrated with mine I set it aside for a while...










 Ive done a some reading about the board, probably not as much as I should have, but for the most part theyve been positive. The one thing that I see over and over is people say this board is REALLY finicky about the RAM that is on it. Hopefully my kingston set will work








I really couldnt pass it up though, $40 shipped







and after looking at which chips are on the board, I was like HOLY @*#$, its the same as a A8R32MVP!!!! So I jumped on it, Im surprised it lasted as long as it did. Seems like everybody just wants SLI these days and has no clue about crossfire.
Now Im just wondering if I should run 2 cards or 1 sooper dopper holy moly smokin card........(trying not to swear, got wrote up at my clinical for saying damn







).


----------



## shortfuse

just wondering if anybody has the same mobo as i do? msi k8n plati, im looking for audio drivers i have a creative 7.1 built in audio. thanks


----------



## Evil Eddie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shortfuse*


just wondering if anybody has the same mobo as i do? msi k8n plati, im looking for audio drivers i have a creative 7.1 built in audio. thanks


try driverguide.com

ok i posted up some pics of my office and puter, started a link in the right spot i hope. here


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Ive done a some reading about the board, probably not as much as I should have, but for the most part theyve been positive. The one thing that I see over and over is people say this board is REALLY finicky about the RAM that is on it. Hopefully my kingston set will work








I really couldnt pass it up though, $40 shipped







and after looking at which chips are on the board, I was like HOLY @*#$, its the same as a A8R32MVP!!!! So I jumped on it, Im surprised it lasted as long as it did. Seems like everybody just wants SLI these days and has no clue about crossfire.
Now Im just wondering if I should run 2 cards or 1 sooper dopper holy moly smokin card........(trying not to swear, got wrote up at my clinical for saying damn







).


BlackOmega, I do hope your CFX3200 experience turns out better than mine has so far. I've resorted to buying an add-on SATA controller card as a last resort, to completely bypass the horrendous ULi SATA controller. This, and the RAM-related issues (you MUST set all the timings and many of the other subtimings and settings manually; if you keep them on Auto, the board will not like it, I can tell you that right now), are the main reasons why I tell such doom-laden tales about the CFX3200. This is not a motherboard for a casual overclocker, for sure...









Quote:



Originally Posted by *shortfuse*


just wondering if anybody has the same mobo as i do? msi k8n plati, im looking for audio drivers i have a creative 7.1 built in audio. thanks


shortfuse, have you tried these?

Good luck.


----------



## shortfuse

what the heck!!!! been searching that site and couldnt find it, thanks joe


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *majakone*


Well evidently everyone here is in their own little click or something , since ive asked several questions / opinions here over the past few weeks and for some reason my posts just get passed over .... Maybe cause im the new guy on the block or something .... Well anyway , I hope everyone has a safe and happy holiday , ill be moving on to try and find another forum somewhere where theres alittle more interaction ......


Majakone, I'm sorry if we might of missed a few of your posts. It does get pretty busy here and sometimes I find myself out of the loop as well. Please stick around and keep asking questions. We'll try and help you out as much as we can









BlackOmega, awesome results on the lap. Isn't it awesome running your cooler at a very low speed? My SI-128 lap paid off well when I was running it. Enjoy the CFX3200.

Good luck guys


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


BlackOmega, I do hope your CFX3200 experience turns out better than mine has so far. I've resorted to buying an add-on SATA controller card as a last resort, to completely bypass the horrendous ULi SATA controller. This, and the RAM-related issues (you MUST set all the timings and many of the other subtimings and settings manually; if you keep them on Auto, the board will not like it, I can tell you that right now), are the main reasons why I tell such doom-laden tales about the CFX3200. This is not a motherboard for a casual overclocker, for sure...








:


 I like a good challenge







and if you get yours working we'll be the elite OCers







.
Has the addon SATA controller helped you at all? It sounds to me like the ULi chip might be bad.








At any rate, I'm actually going to run an IDE HDD in it. I have one from my dell that has Win2kPro installed on it, hopefully it still works. My spare CDROM drive is also IDE. So I don't think I'll be using SATA anything on it, for the time being at least. 
I might just plug the one from my sig rig to it, just to see what happens.








Do you think I'll see any issues with running a nvidia card in it?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
At any rate, I'm actually going to run an IDE HDD in it. I have one from my dell that has Win2kPro installed on it, hopefully it still works. My spare CDROM drive is also IDE. So I don't think I'll be using SATA anything on it, for the time being at least.
I might just plug the one from my sig rig to it, just to see what happens.








Do you think I'll see any issues with running a nvidia card in it?

BlackOmega, you'll definitely not have the advantage of SATA speed though (throughput and burst). All though for testing purposes I doubt it'll be a huge issue.

I don't see any reason why a nVidia card wouldn't work in the board. A PCIe slot is a PCIe slot if that is what you're referring to. Joe might actually be able to answer that for you though. I believe he has both ATI and nVidia video cards.

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I like a good challenge







and if you get yours working we'll be the elite OCers







.
Has the addon SATA controller helped you at all? It sounds to me like the ULi chip might be bad.








At any rate, I'm actually going to run an IDE HDD in it. I have one from my dell that has Win2kPro installed on it, hopefully it still works. My spare CDROM drive is also IDE. So I don't think I'll be using SATA anything on it, for the time being at least.
I might just plug the one from my sig rig to it, just to see what happens.








Do you think I'll see any issues with running a nvidia card in it?

I've not actually used the add-on controller card yet; I want to see if, at the current settings, the ULi SATA controller will behave. If it doesn't, then I'll use the add-on SATA card and reinstall the OS (reinstalling the OS is something I'd rather not do if not necessary; it's an additional step, you know?).

Reports from CFX3200 users vary: Some say their ULi controllers work perfectly, others say theirs are intermittently bad; some say theirs are useless, and still others say their issues disappeared when they used Vista...









When you're ready, perhaps we can have a CFX3200 vs CFX3200 showdown.









As far as for ATi or nVidia cards on the CFX3200: This will only matter if you want to run Crossfire.







In single card mode, it's down to your own preferences, or to whatever card you have on hand.


----------



## thlnk3r

Joe, is it a issue with hardware detection or is the device driver just crap? I'm assuming a BIOS flash didn't resolve the issue either?

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, awesome results on the lap. Isn't it awesome running your cooler at a very low speed? My SI-128 lap paid off well when I was running it. Enjoy the CFX3200.

Good luck guys

Thanks man. It is very nice. The wife ->







. I dont think Im getting as good of a result as if I lapped the IHS though. I need to practice on the Venice first, I wont be so upset if that thing gets screwed. I need some way of covering the pins so they dont bend.....What grits did you guys use when you lapped the IHS? And what is the IHS made out of? Is it coated copper? It looks like regular old steel to me.

As for the CFX3200, Joe has made some pretty ominus predictions







, hopefully they wont come to light. But nonetheless, I'm very persistant, and unless its fried, I *WILL* get it working.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, is it a issue with hardware detection or is the device driver just crap? I'm assuming a BIOS flash didn't resolve the issue either?

Good luck

From what I've read, it's a real tricky issue. It's hard to get a definitive answer. The fact that the Vista ULi driver works better than anything ever issued for WinXP suggests it was purely software; there are many owners, though, who say that even with a Vista driver the ULi controller simply was ill-mannered and inconsistent. Many have therefore suggested that on some of these CFX3200s, there is a hardware fault, likely a bad trace or two leading to/from the SATA controller.

BIOS flashes didn't solve anything. I've tried maybe... three or four different BIOSes to no avail.

I really need to get back to it soon.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Thanks man. It is very nice. The wife ->







. I dont think Im getting as good of a result as if I lapped the IHS though. I need to practice on the Venice first, I wont be so upset if that thing gets screwed. I need some way of covering the pins so they dont bend.....What grits did you guys use when you lapped the IHS? And what is the IHS made out of? Is it coated copper? It looks like regular old steel to me.

BlackOmega, the IHS as I understand is coated copper. As you start sanding, the first layer will slowly come off and you'll see the copper. I used the same grits on my cooler for my IHS. I went in this order, 200, 400, 600, 800, 1500 and 2000. Check out the link in my signature of my lapped SI-128 and IHS. I spent probably 5-6 hours on that lap. After I was done I used some polish and then recleaned with 90% isoprohly alcohol. In regards to the pins, just hold the sides of the PCB. I did that and it was fine. A few pins were slighly misaligned but it wasn't like they are 90 degrees bent.

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I've not actually used the add-on controller card yet; I want to see if, at the current settings, the ULi SATA controller will behave. If it doesn't, then I'll use the add-on SATA card and reinstall the OS (reinstalling the OS is something I'd rather not do if not necessary; it's an additional step, you know?).

Reports from CFX3200 users vary: Some say their ULi controllers work perfectly, others say theirs are intermittently bad; some say theirs are useless, and still others say their issues disappeared when they used Vista...









*When you're ready, perhaps we can have a CFX3200 vs CFX3200 showdown.*









As far as for ATi or nVidia cards on the CFX3200: This will only matter if you want to run Crossfire.







In single card mode, it's down to your own preferences, or to whatever card you have on hand.










I hate reinstalling the OS, formatting the drive takes for freakin ever








I think part of the problem is Nvidia stopped updating their ULi drivers. Hell the new ones they have out now dont even support SLI, so if you have a ULi SLI board you're S.O.L. I emailed nvidia tech support to make sure.

As for the showdown, ITS ON!
















As for the video cards, I just wanted to make sure it wasnt gonna do somethin freaky on me







You got me all intimidated by the board









On a completely different topic, is PCI-e 2.0 double the bandwidth of 1.0?


----------



## shortfuse

ok this is weird after i updated my bios and installed my audio driver pc keeps on turning off BSOD error code is NTACCESS.sys page_fault_in_nonpaged_area. what the heck is this?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shortfuse* 
ok this is weird after i updated my bios and installed my audio driver pc keeps on turning off BSOD error code is NTACCESS.sys page_fault_in_nonpaged_area. what the heck is this?

You overclocked at all?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
On a completely different topic, is PCI-e 2.0 double the bandwidth of 1.0?

BlackOmega, that is correct. PCIe offers 500 MB/s. Tranfer rate or signaling rate is 5 GT/s (gigatransfers per second). I think the wattage output on the slot is the same as a PCIe 1.0. Can anyone confirm?

Good luck

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shortfuse* 
ok this is weird after i updated my bios and installed my audio driver pc keeps on turning off BSOD error code is NTACCESS.sys page_fault_in_nonpaged_area. what the heck is this?

Shortfuse, after updating your BIOS did you go back in a manually make changes? For example, taking settings off of AUTO and manually entering them in? Perhaps your DRAM configuration is set to AUTO and some of the sub-timings are defaulting to something else.

Let us know


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, that is correct. PCIe offers 500 MB/s. Tranfer rate or signaling rate is 5 GT/s (gigatransfers per second). I think the wattage output on the slot is the same as a PCIe 1.0. Can anyone confirm?

I thought it was. On a completely different forum I was debating about crysis benchmarks and such. My OC'd GSO did 1.59 fps worse than an OC'd 4850.







(25.21 to 26.8) At about 1/3 of the price I'd say thats not too shabby.

EDIT: FOrgot to mention that 4850 was on a 4.6 ghz intel and this was when my rig was @ 2.8


----------



## shortfuse

imma do this the easy way, i've been meaning to reformat my pc i guess this is the right time to do it lol.


----------



## TestECull

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I hate reinstalling the OS, formatting the drive takes for freakin ever










You don't have to format when you reinstall...just write the OS over the old one. The installer deletes the old OS before putting the new one on.+

joe: I need to be updated in the OP. I has an overclock now. Also, remind blitz to update the off-site. Validation link is in my sig.

all: Mine wasn't as stable as I thought it was.

Garry's Mod + Firefox running 5-6 tabs of OCN and a music stream = rock solid.
Left 4 Dead + FireFox running music and only three OCN tabs, one speedtest.net = bluescreen, something about secondary processor not recieving a clock signal(Aka Core 1 is crashing. Wonder why it won't stay alive on Core 0?). SB volts up helped none, but a slight up in Vcore fixed...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Alright guys, I cannot possibly break this thing stable any further. Any more CPU speed, not stable. Any tighter timings or higher memory speed, not stable. My HT link was the only thing left for me to tweak with, and well...check it out! S&M stable on the long tests







. Enjoy...and with FOUR gigabytes of RAM







. I'm happy. Seriously, S&M gives you that accomplished feeling.


----------



## MjrTom

Hey guys,

I would like your opinions on installing 4GB of RAM in my system. I have just purchased off ebay an additional 2x1GB of Mushkin Redline XP4000.

I am aware that 32bit XP only addresses ~3.5GB of system RAM.

Any other "issues" you think i may encounter?

I intend on upgrading to 64bit Vista in the near future.

Any comments more than welcome!


----------



## TestECull

Hrm...64-bit Vista's already lined up, that's good.

Watch your ram speeds. Your memory controller will want to default to DDR333, you might need to force it to run faster.

Good luck!


----------



## MjrTom

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
Hrm...64-bit Vista's already lined up, that's good.

Watch your ram speeds. Your memory controller will want to default to DDR333, you might need to force it to run faster.

Good luck!

Hey thanks for the comments.









I heard things along those lines, I heard that they struggle to keep 1T Timings and default to 2T.

Will keep an eye out









Will it destabilise my overclock at all?


----------



## TestECull

It shouldn't. Alot of guys in here with 4GB ram have their ram speeds up where they belong. Thing is, the memory controller doesn't like it and that's why it defaults to DDR333 and/or 2T. You need to force higher speeds, but your opty should be able to do it just fine.


----------



## MjrTom

Thanks again,

Just need to wait for delivery of the RAM and then upgrade to Vista 64bit.

Just need to check that there is 64 bit drivers for all my hardware now...


----------



## pioneerisloud

MjrTom:

You will have a VERY difficult time getting your RAM to DDR500 speeds with 4x1GB sticks. It is possible, but VERY unlikely. However DDR400 should be quite easy. You will have to stick to a 2T CR period. 1T...it won't POST. Its definitely a good investment. My system is a LOT snappier with 4GB vs. 2. Just keep in mind, your default speed does become DDR333, with a 2T Command Rate. Anything higher from there is considered an overclock. And 2T CR is a must.

Basically, what I'm telling you is don't EXPECT DDR500 speeds with 4x1GB. You may or may not get there. Take a look at my rig. All four of my sticks will stabilize at DDR533 @ 3-3-3-8-1T. However I can't even break past DDR450 stable. Its just a limitation of the memory controller for Socket 939.


----------



## MjrTom

Thanks Pioneerisloud!

You have summarised my thoughts exactly. Was not sure how the system would cope with the additional overhead accociated with 4x1GB modules. After posting my original question I noticed that you were also in the same boat.

I suppose until the modules turn up I will have to wait and see, just want to get a "heads up" of any issues that are likely to manifest themselves. I will be taking a close look at your settings and results.

I am trying to stave off upgrading from s939 for as long as possible, 4GB of system RAM being the last upgrade path for this platform. hopefully I can put off the upgrade for another 3-6 months.

When you say your system is a lot snappier what in particular have you noticed?


----------



## mudd

tomtomtom. i wouldn't suggest putting 4 sticks of memory in an s939 overclock. it'll mess w/ your ram settings. now if you clock your ram down i wouldn't see the big deal with it, but you'd have to run 3-3-3-8 2t or something along those lines due to the s939 memory controller. so i'd suggest you either get 2 x 2gb chips, or just stick w/ 2 gigs and wait for an upgrade in the future. worse thing that would happen is your overclock would go squirrely w/ 4 ram chips and you'd have to go back.


----------



## MjrTom

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mudd*


tomtomtom. i wouldn't suggest putting 4 sticks of memory in an s939 overclock. it'll mess w/ your ram settings. so i'd suggest you either get 2 x 2gb chips,


Correct me if I am wrong but they did not make DIMMS in 2GB only 1GB (64Mx16 chip density) for DDR?


----------



## mudd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MjrTom*


Correct me if I am wrong but they did not make DIMMS in 2GB only 1GB (64Mx16 chip density) for DDR?


i remember corsair or somebody making a 2 x 2gb set, but i can't find it. then again, it was 400+ dollars back when i seen it a couple of years ago. lemme try to find it.


----------



## MjrTom

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mudd*


i remember corsair or somebody making a 2 x 2gb set, but i can't find it. then again, it was 400+ dollars back when i seen it a couple of years ago. lemme try to find it.


Sure it was non-EEC registered memory?


----------



## NITRO1250

Add me. My parents are still using my socket 939 rig.

AMD 3700+ 64bit 2.2ghz w/ ASUS A8N SLI Premium 939 mobo

Still kicking like day one!


----------



## mudd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MjrTom*


Sure it was non-EEC registered memory?


i can't find it, so i'll just assume you're right and blame my mistake on drugs


----------



## MjrTom

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mudd*


i can't find it, so i'll just assume you're right and blame my mistake on drugs










lol no problem.









Worth a punt netherless. If I cant get any sucess with the additional 2 modules, they can go back on ebay


----------



## mudd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MjrTom*


lol no problem.









Worth a punt netherless. If I cant get any sucess with the additional 2 modules, they can go back on ebay










just remember to run your divider to lower your memory speeds to DDR400 and 2t timings to avoid problems.


----------



## MjrTom

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mudd* 
just remember to run your divider to lower your memory speeds to DDR400 and 2t timings to avoid problems.

Will take it into consideration









Are there any noticable differences between 32bit vs 64bit operating systems? (I use 32bitVista Home Basic on my laptop)


----------



## TestECull

64-bit Vista is a bit more efficient, it lets you use 4gb RAM, and it does curb bad drivers.


----------



## mudd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MjrTom* 
Will take it into consideration









Are there any noticable differences between 32bit vs 64bit operating systems? (I use 32bitVista Home Basic on my laptop)

i use winxp pro 32 bit at work and xp pro 64 bit at home. i can't tell much of a difference. load times/boot times are a tad bit faster on my 64 bit machine.

as far as vista, iono. as stated above i know that vista 64bit drivers have to be digitally signed or they won't work.


----------



## MjrTom

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
64-bit Vista is a bit more efficient, it lets you use 4gb RAM, and it does curb bad drivers.

Cheers







Any reason why I should not go 64bit?


----------



## TestECull

No, tho the XP fanbois will spout off a ton of them. All your hardware is Vista supported. The only iffy part is the Audigy, but that's on Creative, not Microsoft.

Also, Vista actually pre-packages an nForce 4 driver, among other things. It's pretty nice, actually.

My suggestion is to get your mitts on Server 2008, tho. Same kernal, same drivers, Aero can be installed from the disc, but half the overhead.


----------



## MjrTom

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
No, tho the XP fanbois will spout off a ton of them. All your hardware is Vista supported. The only iffy part is the Audigy, but that's on Creative, not Microsoft.

Also, Vista actually pre-packages an nForce 4 driver, among other things. It's pretty nice, actually.

My suggestion is to get your mitts on Server 2008, tho. Same kernal, same drivers, Aero can be installed from the disc, but half the overhead.









lol im sure they would









Personally I had my doubts about the soundcard, which is a shame as its reasonably good card. Trust Creative to force a hardware upgrade for vista users...


----------



## pez

I love my rig on 64 bit vista, even though I only have 2 gigs, though I think I'll be acquiring the other 2 from blitz soon.


----------



## Blitz6804

Omega-death-post coming. Before I go further, I will say off-site roster is falling out of date. Do not worry, I have you all listed to be updated, I just have not updated yet. (N2Gaming: new speed. Mudd: joined 12/13. BlackOmega: new speed.* TestECull: new speed. Pioneerisloud: 2.9+ GHz S&M stable speed. Evil Eddie: new speed. NITRO1250: nostalgic joined 12/15.) That said:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Ah, I thought you ended up getting them sold. One thing I noticed, the part number is 991492 on the one's I have, and on newegg the single 1gb stick is 991492 and rated at 3-3-2-7 instead of what the 2x1gb sticks show (3-3-2-8). I may have to try those timings out







.

Nope; not sold. Just PM me if you still wanted them, I will give you the same price.

When using an odd number of DIMMs, it is 3-3-2-7. When using an even number of DIMMs, it is 3-3-2-8. This is likely due to the difference in load on the IMC for dual-channel versus single-channel mode.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Evil Eddie* 
and if it wasnt for this forum i'd still be using my 1.75gigs of ram and not understanding why it aint helping none.

Now if only we can get you up to 2 GB. 4x512 is not as good as 2x1024, but it is better than a single gigabyte.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *majakone* 
Well evidently everyone here is in their own little click or something , since ive asked several questions / opinions here over the past few weeks and for some reason my posts just get passed over .... Maybe cause im the new guy on the block or something .... Well anyway , I hope everyone has a safe and happy holiday , ill be moving on to try and find another forum somewhere where theres alittle more interaction ......

Sorry you feel that way Majakone, I do not mean to seem that way. I however have been out of town, and am only getting on here once every other day or so. When I get home in January, I will be much more posty.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Sorry man, I didnt see your post eariler.









As for what RAM to keep? Keep the one that works the best of course. Id say which ever set OC's the highest/best. Like with my Kingston Hyperx (4x512) I can run my board up higher than the corsair XMS I have which is only single channel. Granted, I can run the XMS @ 1T though. So your question is a tough one to answer really.

I think another reason people didnt answer you is there just wasnt very many people on today. I just kept thinkin, where the hell is everybody?

Hope you dont leave bro.

Run Everest Ultimate Bandwidth test. That will tell you which RAM is the best to run.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Well guys I just bought yet another mobo, my wife is gonna think Im







, lol.
Check this board out.

Goin crossfire this time









*Dies laughing.* Good luck with that BlackOmega, that board made Txtmstrjoe go crazier in the head.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Damn. Ok, here's what happened. I decided to try 2.65ghz again and this time I tried many combinations. What seemed to help most, oddly, was upping the vcore to 1.5v. I tried upping the nb/sb to 1.68 but all my computer would do at best was run windows for a good 2-5 minutes, then lock. I tried setting my divi down to 166:200, and even loosened my timings. Without the upped vcore though, i wouldn't get past the windows vista loading screen (like xp w/ the green bar running across).

I think you mean 200:166, but whatever. Why is increasing your VCore to 1.500 V odd? That is the standard Modus Operandi for overclocking.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I really couldnt pass it up though, $40 shipped







and after looking at which chips are on the board, I was like HOLY @*#$, its the same as a A8R32MVP!!!! So I jumped on it, Im surprised it lasted as long as it did. Seems like everybody just wants SLI these days and has no clue about crossfire.

It is not quite the same. A8R32MVP is a great board to work with: very user friendly. As for UT CFX3200-DR, it is a TERRIBLE board to the user. You WILL start having bald patches in your head from where you pulled the hair out.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I hate reinstalling the OS, formatting the drive takes for freakin ever








I think part of the problem is Nvidia stopped updating their ULi drivers. Hell the new ones they have out now dont even support SLI, so if you have a ULi SLI board you're S.O.L. I emailed nvidia tech support to make sure.

. . .

On a completely different topic, is PCI-e 2.0 double the bandwidth of 1.0?

MOST ULi chips found their way onto ATI chipsetted boards. This is why they likely canned support.

. . .

Yes. PCI-E 2.0 is double the bandwidth of PCI-E 1.1. PCI-E 2.0 8x = PCI-E 1.1 16x = 32,000 Mbps (4,000 MBps) et cetera. (On the other hand, PCI-E 1.1 8x is a fuzz slower than AGP, that is, 2000 MBps versus 2133 MBps.)

As for power, both are the same. 75 W standard but occasionally configurable to higher wattage.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MjrTom* 
Hey guys,

I would like your opinions on installing 4GB of RAM in my system. I have just purchased off ebay an additional 2x1GB of Mushkin Redline XP4000.

I am aware that 32bit XP only addresses ~3.5GB of system RAM.

Any other "issues" you think i may encounter?

I intend on upgrading to 64bit Vista in the near future.

Any comments more than welcome!

With an AGP board and an HD 3850 512 MB, I had access to 3.50 GB. When I swapped to a PCI-E board with an HD 3850 512 MB, it fell to 3.25 GB. I had no problems running 4 GB of Mushkin Redlines.

HOWEVER, as TestECull said:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
Watch your ram speeds. Your memory controller will want to default to DDR333, you might need to force it to run faster.

Your RAM will drop to the DDR 333 divider. Any attempts to make it DDR 400 will make the system unable to POST regardless of what voltages you give anywhere. This does not preclude DDR 400, just the 200:200 divider. I ran my Redlines at DDR 400 (HTT = 255 @ 200:166), 2-3-2-5-2T-7-11.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MjrTom* 
Hey thanks for the comments.









I heard things along those lines, I heard that they struggle to keep 1T Timings and default to 2T.

Will keep an eye out










Will it destabilise my overclock at all?

Absolutely. You cannot run 1T timings with four DIMMs unless you are running something like the 200:100 divider. It will also require you to restart your overclock anew.

To get 4 GB much over DDR 450, you will likely need a DFI board. Asus has enough tweaks to slightly pass that wall, DFI has enough tweaks to bust that barrier right open. (Gigabyte does not, nor does Abit.)

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mudd* 
tomtomtom. i wouldn't suggest putting 4 sticks of memory in an s939 overclock. it'll mess w/ your ram settings. now if you clock your ram down i wouldn't see the big deal with it, but you'd have to run 3-3-3-8 2t or something along those lines due to the s939 memory controller. so i'd suggest you either get 2 x 2gb chips, or just stick w/ 2 gigs and wait for an upgrade in the future. worse thing that would happen is your overclock would go squirrely w/ 4 ram chips and you'd have to go back.

The only way to put 2x2048 into a Socket 939 is if you use an Opteron and use EEC unbuffered RAM. I ran 4x1024 personally and it worked great in Windows Vista Ultimate 64x. It did pretty darned good in XP Home 32x. (Remember to put the 4 GB patch into Vista or it will do nothing but crash.)

Quote:


Originally Posted by *NITRO1250* 
Add me. My parents are still using my socket 939 rig.

AMD 3700+ 64bit 2.2ghz w/ ASUS A8N SLI Premium 939 mobo

Still kicking like day one!

If you have a CPU-Z validation link, we can add that. If not, you will be text-only in the Nostalgia section.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
No, tho the XP fanbois will spout off a ton of them. All your hardware is Vista supported. The only iffy part is the Audigy, but that's on Creative, not Microsoft.

I am using the Daniel_K driver. I miss the Creative XP drivers. The Daniel_K Vista driver works better than the Creative Vista driver, but sucks compared to the XP support.

*I have a validation link for 3003 MHz and screenshot for 3025 MHz. Can we get a validation link for 3025 MHz?


----------



## MjrTom

Hey thanks for the info.

I do infact have a DFI motherboard (DFI-SLI-D) hopefully all those extra tweaks available will be put to good use, or likely become a headache...

Just need to wait for the delivery of the Redline modules from the States now...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

TestE, roster updated per your request.







Thanks again for the gentle reminder.

MjrTom, I wish I had experience when it comes to fiddling with 4GB of RAM, but I don't. Thankfully, we've got pio who has got solid experience. I think JEmmaB also runs with 4GB in his rig. And Poser, who I haven't seen forever







, also has great insight in this.

At any rate, good luck!


----------



## MjrTom

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
TestE, roster updated per your request.







Thanks again for the gentle reminder.

MjrTom, I wish I had experience when it comes to fiddling with 4GB of RAM, but I don't. Thankfully, we've got pio who has got solid experience. I think JEmmaB also runs with 4GB in his rig. And Poser, who I haven't seen forever







, also has great insight in this.

At any rate, good luck!









Cheers for the info, will keep an eye out for them and pick their brains on this matter


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Yes. PCI-E 2.0 is double the bandwidth of PCI-E 1.1. PCI-E 2.0 8x = PCI-E 1.1 16x = 32,000 Mbps (4,000 MBps) et cetera. (On the other hand, PCI-E 1.1 8x is a fuzz slower than AGP, that is, 2000 MBps versus 2133 MBps.)

Blitz, just thought I'd mentioned PCIe 2.0 also has 32 lanes max as well.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
75 W standard but occasionally configurable to higher wattage.

How do they configure the slot to offer more power? I thought the rest of the power requirements came through the 6-pin/8-pin power connectors?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Something smells fishy here. You would not be posing as a buyer when your really the seller trying to point all the s939'ers to the craigslist post in dallas would you.










LOL, it's a 940 chip.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *majakone*


Well evidently everyone here is in their own little click or something , since ive asked several questions / opinions here over the past few weeks and for some reason my posts just get passed over .... Maybe cause im the new guy on the block or something .... Well anyway , I hope everyone has a safe and happy holiday , ill be moving on to try and find another forum somewhere where theres alittle more interaction ......


Sorry about that. I haven't answered you do to the fact that there is no answer in my head.









Our resident expert on this issue is MIA ATM. As soon as he pops in I'm sure he'll get right on this to help you. Sorry if it seemed we were ignoreing you, We wern't we just don't reply if we don't have the answer. This thread moves VERY fast!


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


BlackOmega, I do hope your CFX3200 experience turns out better than mine has so far. I've resorted to buying an add-on SATA controller card as a last resort, to completely bypass the horrendous ULi SATA controller. [/URL]?

Good luck.


















Wow the Uli chipset on my Asrock Sata II is the balls! Rock solid with no issues and I can run a AGP and PCI-E card at the same time!!!!!


----------



## MjrTom

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*









Wow the Uli chipset on my Asrock Sata II is the balls! Rock solid with no issues and I can run a AGP and PCI-E card at the same time!!!!!


I think the Asrock boards actually did a reasonable implimentation of the ULi chipset IMO.


----------



## pez

I thought it was wierd to have to to raise it 1.5V just for it not to freeze, but only happened that it delayed it like 5 minutes and allowed windows to start. I did end up setting the trp(?) to 7 and it's been fine. I guess if it's not frozen when I get home, then maybe I've made some progress.


----------



## azim

HELP ME OUT GUYS! So, I just opened CSS game, which i wanted to play, then my computer turned to Blue scree, then it shutted down. Now I cant boot my PC anymore, it is asking for "Disc boot failure, Insert system disc and press enter" So what's wrong now, I ain't pro with PC, I didnt overclock any component, HELP me out fellows.


----------



## mudd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *azim*


HELP ME OUT GUYS! So, I just opened CSS game, which i wanted to play, then my computer turned to Blue scree, then it shutted down. Now I cant boot my PC anymore, it is asking for "Disc boot failure, Insert system disc and press enter" So what's wrong now, I ain't pro with PC, I didnt overclock any component, HELP me out fellows.


you need to clear the bios and start from scratch.

do you have an AGP motherboard or a PCI-E motherboard? i think the asus A8 boards were AGP??

i did a quick search and it looks like it has an AGP slot. you need to lock your AGP bus down (i think just up it to 67 MHz and it should do the trick.) then continue overclocking and test your settings before you actually run games and such, use orthos, superpi etc to test stability.


----------



## azim

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mudd*


you need to clear the bios and start from scratch.

do you have an AGP motherboard or a PCI-E motherboard? i think the asus A8 boards were AGP??

i did a quick search and it looks like it has an AGP slot. you need to lock your AGP bus down (i think just up it to 67 MHz and it should do the trick.) then continue overclocking and test your settings before you actually run games and such, use orthos, superpi etc to test stability.


I have PCI-E motherboard


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *azim*


HELP ME OUT GUYS! So, I just opened CSS game, which i wanted to play, then my computer turned to Blue scree, then it shutted down. Now I cant boot my PC anymore, it is asking for "Disc boot failure, Insert system disc and press enter" So what's wrong now, I ain't pro with PC, I didnt overclock any component, HELP me out fellows.


Azim, if you're not overclocked them perhaps your memory may be at vault. Faulty/failed memory can cause numerous issues with the OS. Sounds like your MBR (master boot record) may have become damaged or corrupted. Did you happen to clear the CMOS after this issue occurred? If so don't forget to change the boot priority.

If you have a memtest CD handy, I'd recommend running it to see if any errors are detected. Run tests 5 and 8 each for at least 20 minutes.

Let us know

Good luck









Quote:



Originally Posted by *mudd*


i did a quick search and it looks like it has an AGP slot. you need to lock your AGP bus down (i think just up it to 67 MHz and it should do the trick.) then continue overclocking and test your settings before you actually run games and such, use orthos, superpi etc to test stability.


Mudd, I believe Azim is running stock clocks at the moment. His issues could be related to hardware failure. Even a flaky Windows install could cause this...


----------



## TestECull

Joe, blitz: Sweet.


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


How do they configure the slot to offer more power? I thought the rest of the power requirements came through the 6-pin/8-pin power connectors?



I suspose they put heavier duty traces/voltage regulators on the motherboard for it.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


I suspose they put heavier duty traces/voltage regulators on the motherboard for it.


TestECull, a voltage regulator provides a constant voltage level. Are you sure that pushes more wattage through the PCIe slot?

Good luck


----------



## azim

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Azim, if you're not overclocked them perhaps your memory may be at vault. Faulty/failed memory can cause numerous issues with the OS. Sounds like your MBR (master boot record) may have become damaged or corrupted. Did you happen to clear the CMOS after this issue occurred? If so don't forget to change the boot priority.

If you have a memtest CD handy, I'd recommend running it to see if any errors are detected. Run tests 5 and 8 each for at least 20 minutes.

Let us know

Good luck









Mudd, I believe Azim is running stock clocks at the moment. His issues could be related to hardware failure. Even a flaky Windows install could cause this...


How should I download the file if I can't even start the windows. Or even to run it :S


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *azim*


How should I download the file if I can't even start the windows. Or even to run it :S


Azim, do you happen to have another machine local that would allow you to download this file? Does clearing your CMOS resolve any of the boot issues? Make sure after clearing the CMOS that you go back in and manually make the necessary changes.

Are you getting a "NTLDR is missing" error message? This is a typical sign of a corrupt or damaged MBR. This can easily be repaired by inserting the Windows XP cd, loading the recovery console and copying a few files.

Good luck


----------



## azim

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Azim, do you happen to have another machine local that would allow you to download this file? Does clearing your CMOS resolve any of the boot issues? Make sure after clearing the CMOS that you go back in and manually make the necessary changes.

Are you getting a "NTLDR is missing" error message? This is a typical sign of a corrupt or damaged MBR. This can easily be repaired by inserting the Windows XP cd, loading the recovery console and copying a few files.

Good luck










Yes I have another PC. Should I download the file with another PC and burn it to CD or put it in the memory stick?
And what's CMOS


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *azim*


Yes I have another PC. Should I download the file with another PC and burn it to CD or put it in the memory stick?
And what's CMOS


Azim, that is correct. Download memtest on a working machine and then burn it to a CD. Then load the diagnostic utility on the machine that is having problems.

The CMOS is what your BIOS settings are stored in. Clearing the CMOS will reset all of those settings which may or may not help at all. Typically when an overclock fails, the first troubleshooting procedure is to clear the CMOS. In some cases clearing the CMOS can also be quite useful.

Good luck


----------



## Evil Eddie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *azim*


Yes I have another PC. Should I download the file with another PC and burn it to CD or put it in the memory stick?
And what's CMOS


cmos is your bios resetter. on your board there is a yellow or black jumper that should be near a little square chip. on my board it says "jbat" under the prongs. after you turn puter off, ground your self and take the plastic jumper off and move it over to the next prong, there are 3 prongs l l l jumper conects 2, the middle is always gana be connected to one or the other. but if you jump it take the battery off as well and let it sit for about 10 minutes, then insert battery back and set the jumper back. hope that helps.

to all: 1 1/2 more hours then my prime testing is done. dont prime just repeat the tests over and over? or is it all new test through out the hours?


----------



## azim

I dont have a good experience of burning, just some songs on CD, do I burn the ISO file which i download from the site?


----------



## mudd

to burn iso files i just use active isoburner, its free and easy to use.


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


TestECull, a voltage regulator provides a constant voltage level. Are you sure that pushes more wattage through the PCIe slot?

Good luck



They have to withstand the current, tho. Better regulators will withstand more current, allowing more wattage through. Goes right along with the thicker traces. It's kinda like how AM2+ mobo's don't always support Phenom X4's, because they draw more current than the voltage regulators can provide, frying them alive. That's why they're labelled "For 95W CPU" "Supports 125W CPU", etc etc.

Running, say, 125W through the 75W PCI-e voltage regulators will cook them in a week, if they're really lucky.


----------



## azim

Can I use Nero v.7?


----------



## Evil Eddie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *azim*


I dont have a good experience of burning, just some songs on CD, do I burn the ISO file which i download from the site?


if you have nero or magiciso or search for iso programs on the net, you double click the iso image and it should open it automatic then hit burn to cd. if it dont open then choose program to open.


----------



## Evil Eddie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *azim*


Can I use Nero v.7?


yes


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


They have to withstand the current, tho. Better regulators will withstand more current, allowing more wattage through. Goes right along with the thicker traces. It's kinda like how AM2+ mobo's don't always support Phenom X4's, because they draw more current than the voltage regulators can provide, frying them alive. That's why they're labelled "For 95W CPU" "Supports 125W CPU", etc etc.

Running, say, 125W through the 75W PCI-e voltage regulators will cook them in a week, if they're really lucky.


TestECull, I understand they are designed to "withstand" more power but it sounded like Blitz said they could push more wattage through the slots (ie. more then that 75 watts). Hopefully when Blitz returns he can explain to us.

The 95W/125W specification listed on boards is the TDP, I'm pretty sure that isn't related to power draw.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *azim*


Can I use Nero v.7?


Azim, Nero 7 will work fine. Look for the burning option, "Burn as Image". That should do it.

Good luck guys


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


TestECull, I understand they are designed to "withstand" more power but it sounded like Blitz said they could push more wattage through the slots (ie. more then that 75 watts). Hopefully when Blitz returns he can explain to us.

The 95W/125W specification listed on boards is the TDP, I'm pretty sure that isn't related to power draw.



TDP is, however. A higher TDP means the proc is drawing more current, as the voltage is far too close(If differant at all) to make such a big differance in the TDP. In order to have the higher TDP, the proc has to draw more power to begin with.

I was just referring to how I thought they might do the higher PCI-e wattage. It's perfectly feasible, and that's all that'd be needed. Higher current capable voltage regulators + thicker traces = more wattage can be transmitted through the slot. Perhaps I didn't word it enough?


----------



## azim

Now I have burned it, and my pc doesnt read the cd, nothings different than it was at the start :O


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


TDP is, however. A higher TDP means the proc is drawing more current, as the voltage is far too close(If differant at all) to make such a big differance in the TDP. In order to have the higher TDP, the proc has to draw more power to begin with.


TestECull, TDP (*thermal *design power) I believe is mostly related to thermal output specifications and not necessarily power draw. My Opteron 170 has a TDP of 110W. Using a kill-a-watt tool, my machine was drawing a maximum of 78watts during Orthos priority 9 test. I was running a PCI video card. I don't see how TDP can be the maximum wattage draw. There's also different explanations behind TDP. Each manufacturer including AMD and Intel have different definitions.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


more wattage can be transmitted through the slot.


TestECull, I was just wondering if a single PCI Express slot can draw more then the factory rated 75watts.

Good luck


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *azim*


Now I have burned it, and my pc doesnt read the cd, nothings different than it was at the start :O


Azim, can you explain in better detail? Did you burn memtest as an "image" in Nero? Did you change your boot priority list to detect the CDROM drive first?

Good luck


----------



## Evil Eddie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *azim*


Now I have burned it, and my pc doesnt read the cd, nothings different than it was at the start :O



Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Azim, can you explain in better detail? Did you burn memtest as an "image" in Nero? Did you change your boot priority list to detect the CDROM drive first?
Good luck


Ya, when your puter starts up, hit the "esc" key, that will give you the boot option. at least on my puter it does


----------



## azim

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Evil Eddie* 
Ya, when your puter starts up, hit the "esc" key, that will give you the boot option. at least on my puter it does

My PC doesnt get to boot menu with pressing ESC :/ any other options?

E: its really weird all i can do is go to BIOS :O


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *azim* 
My PC doesnt get to boot menu with pressing ESC :/ any other options?

Try the _Delete_ key, or maybe F8.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz, just thought I'd mentioned PCIe 2.0 also has 32 lanes max as well.

How do they configure the slot to offer more power? I thought the rest of the power requirements came through the 6-pin/8-pin power connectors?

Of course. PCI-E of any flavor, 1.1 or 2.0, tops out at 32 lanes.

As for more power, by default, the motherboard delivers 75 W. Some motherboards can configure this to some other number. In my case, I can put up to 250 W into the slot, but as you said, I do not see why I would want to do this. More than 150 W can start causing damage to the PCI-E slot traces. This is why they started putting supplemental power connectors: traces can only carry so much power.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *azim* 
HELP ME OUT GUYS! So, I just opened CSS game, which i wanted to play, then my computer turned to Blue scree, then it shutted down. Now I cant boot my PC anymore, it is asking for "Disc boot failure, Insert system disc and press enter" So what's wrong now, I ain't pro with PC, I didnt overclock any component, HELP me out fellows.

As Thlnk3r said, an unstable overclock likely fried your MBR. This is fortunately an easy fix. Put in your Windows install CD, enter the recovery console, and type "fixmbr." When done, reboot, and it should boot properly.

BEFORE you do that though, check your boot priority in the BIOS. Sometimes, the Hard Drive / CD gets flipped.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Evil Eddie* 
to all: 1 1/2 more hours then my prime testing is done. dont prime just repeat the tests over and over? or is it all new test through out the hours?

Just let Prime95 / Orthos run as long as you want to test stability. In my case, it took about 11 hours per lap, so a 24-hour test would result in two laps plus some.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *azim* 
My PC doesnt get to boot menu with pressing ESC :/ any other options?

Azim, you can change the boot order by entering the BIOS. Usually the "DEL" or "Delete" button upon POST (power on self test) will allow you to enter the BIOS.

Good luck


----------



## azim

So, i got to my bootmenu with F8 key, now:
Selext a boot fist device:
Removagle
Hard disc: 1. Samsung HD16...
2. bootable ass-in cards.

None of those selections dont work for me :O I have messed up really bad this time, I tried also My windows XP cd, in every case the same **** error massege comes :O


----------



## Blitz6804

Pioneerisloud: minor housekeeping issues. I do not suppose you have a CPU-Z link of your new S&M stable speed? Usually, I like to have a CPU-Z link for the speed, and a separate link for S&M stable.

For all others, I am updating the off-site roster right this minute.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *azim* 
So, i got to my bootmenu with F8 key, now:
Selext a boot fist device:
Removagle
Hard disc: 1. Samsung HD16...
2. bootable ass-in cards.

None of those selections dont work for me :O I have messed up really bad this time, I tried also My windows XP cd, in every case the same **** error massege comes :O

Azim, what hardware devices are listed in your BIOS? This should be the first menu listed in your BIOS. This screen should display the connected devices (ie. hard drives, optical drives). Maybe your BIOS is not seeing the optical drive. You could try a different IDE port and even a different IDE cable. Worse case scenario the IDE port itself has failed.

Let us know

Good luck


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Pioneerisloud: minor housekeeping issues. I do not suppose you have a CPU-Z link of your new S&M stable speed? Usually, I like to have a CPU-Z link for the speed, and a separate link for S&M stable.

For all others, I am updating the off-site roster right this minute.

Sorry for the double post...

Blitz, please remove my 3600+ processor. That one just went to my brother this weekend. I might be adding more though soon


----------



## azim

Hold on I will upload some error pix and stuff, so u can see it with ur eyes cos im really bad to navigate and stuff :/


----------



## azim

Here are some pictures:]

http://img241.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1304zf5.jpg
http://img26.picoodle.com/img/img26/...3m_5868df2.jpg
http://img237.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1305si4.jpg
http://img237.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1308ay7.jpg
http://img37.picoodle.com/img/img37/...7m_ff5acc9.jpg
http://img19.picoodle.com/img/img19/...0m_7313529.jpg

Is my Hard drive broken or smth?


----------



## Evil Eddie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *azim* 
So, i got to my bootmenu with F8 key, now:
Selext a boot fist device:
Removagle
Hard disc: 1. Samsung HD16...
2. bootable ass-in cards.

None of those selections dont work for me :O I have messed up really bad this time, I tried also My windows XP cd, in every case the same **** error massege comes :O

is your win cd a copy? sometimes the copies wont boot. if your cd is in drive and you select that drive to boot from then it should boot unless its a nonboot copy. my win cd is a copy, i didnt back it up right so it wont boot, i have to get the orig. cd to boot from it.


----------



## Evil Eddie

Azim: id say reset the cmos. have you tried that?


----------



## azim

Watch these pictures
http://img241.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1304zf5.jpg
http://img26.picoodle.com/img/img26/...3m_5868df2.jpg
http://img237.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1305si4.jpg
http://img237.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1308ay7.jpg
http://img37.picoodle.com/img/img37/...7m_ff5acc9.jpg
http://img19.picoodle.com/img/img19/...0m_7313529.jpg
My hard drive is broken or smth :O

E: yes my Xp is copy.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *azim* 
Here are some pictures:]

http://img241.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1304zf5.jpg
http://img26.picoodle.com/img/img26/...3m_5868df2.jpg
http://img237.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1305si4.jpg
http://img237.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1308ay7.jpg
http://img37.picoodle.com/img/img37/...7m_ff5acc9.jpg
http://img19.picoodle.com/img/img19/...0m_7313529.jpg

Is my Hard drive broken or smth?

Azim, judging by a few of the screenshots you listed above it almost looks like you're trying to boot via RAID. If you're not running a RAID setup, please change _SATA Mode_ to _IDE_.

Also the first screenshot indicates a failed overclock. As we previously stated, please clear your CMOS and start from fresh. Hopefully that clears up that error message and allows for a proper POST screen.

Good luck


----------



## azim

I went to BIOS, and i did; "Load setup defults" is this what u meant?
I still havnt overclocked any of my PCs komponents :O dont know why error message says so :/


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Azim, judging by a few of the screenshots you listed above it almost looks like you're trying to boot via RAID. If you're not running a RAID setup, please change _SATA Mode_ to _IDE_.

I have that same option in my BIOS. I originally set it to IDE when I first got my PC but it refused to find my HDD (only 1 single S-ATA drive) so I tried setting it to RAID, and guess what. There it was.
Dunno why, but even though I'm not running any "real RAID" it's the only thing that works.


----------



## Evil Eddie

Azim: load default in bios is not as good as resetting the cmos, i dont think.

torture test done, how do i upload prime95 so i can show it?


----------



## azim

When i changed to ide, there came " Windows Setup" Setup is loading files :O what is going on XD
IS IT installing windows XP all over?


----------



## azim

Oww, lol its doing memtest now , iw ill let u know the results soon.


----------



## Evil Eddie

"[Dec 15 09:24] Self-test 128K passed! [Dec 15 09:24] Test 1, 5300 Lucas-Lehmer iterations of M14942207 using FFT length 1024K. FFT length 384K. [Dec 15 15:16] Test 3, 17000 Lucas-Lehmer iterations of M4698593 using FFT length 384K. [Dec 15 15:20] Torture Test ran 24 hours, 4 minutes - 0 errors, 0 warnings. [Dec 15 15:20] Work thread stopped. "

that is my test results. now back to play time.


----------



## thlnk3r

Hoth, thanks for the explanation. That is interesting to know









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Evil Eddie* 
torture test done, how do i upload prime95 so i can show it?

Evil Eddie, a valid confirmation could be done via screenshot. That is usually the most easiest. You could always upload the screenshot to your OCN picture gallery and then link us.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *azim* 
When i changed to ide, there came " Windows Setup" Setup is loading files :O what is going on XD
IS IT installing windows XP all over?

Azim, I'm guessing the first time you were having this problem was from an unstable overclock. You probably reset the BIOS and didn't go back in and manually make the required changes that are typically done after a CMOS clear. Since you're only running one drive it wasn't required to have _SATA Mode_ set to _RAID_. Sounds like to me it's loading the operating system.


----------



## azim

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Hoth, thanks for the explanation. That is interesting to know









Evil Eddie, a valid confirmation could be done via screenshot. That is usually the most easiest. You could always upload the screenshot to your OCN picture gallery and then link us.

Azim, I'm guessing the first time you were having this problem was from an unstable overclock. You probably reset the BIOS and didn't go back in and manually make the required changes that are typically done after a CMOS clear. Since you're only running one drive it wasn't required to have _SATA Mode_ set to _RAID_. Sounds like to me it's loading the operating system.


Hehe, you are right, I resetted the BIOS, 2 days ago if i remember correct, but why this **** happened by now :O
Edit; us this memtest supposed to run like 1h? cause its really downloading slow :O, And also I didnt overclock my PC, I tried but i didnt know how to :O


----------



## Evil Eddie

he said he wasnt OCing it, maybe he set the bios to the highest setting default. i done that before on my old board, and it wasnt capable of running that, so i had to reset cmos.

i cant take a scrnshot of my test results no more, i shut the puter down so i could make some changes to the case. if my text i posted doesnt explain, i do have the whole thing copied in notepad.

thInk3r: i didnt even think about a scrnshot. DOH!


----------



## azim

So, now im running the Memtest, after I post the result picture here?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *azim*


So, now im running the Memtest, after I post the result picture here?


Azim, no need to post results unless you want to. I was suggesting that you run memtest because it sounded like your memory may have been at fault but sounds like to me it's pretty solid.

I'm glad you got everything figured out









Remember your motherboard doesn't allow for the PCI bus to be locked. So if you attempt to overclock you may run into instability issues pretty quick.

Good luck


----------



## azim

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Azim, no need to post results unless you want to. I was suggesting that you run memtest because it sounded like your memory may have been at fault but sounds like to me it's pretty solid.

I'm glad you got everything figured out









Remember your motherboard doesn't allow for the PCI bus to be locked. So if you attempt to overclock you may run into instability issues pretty quick.

Good luck


Everything aint figured out yet bro, The same error message still comes, the only think that has changed is that my Dvd reads my XP and Memtest CD, what else do i need to change in my bios?

Result is this:"Pass complete, no errors, press Esc"


----------



## azim

AFK, I go sleep im getting sick of this :O, thx anyways guys for helping me.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


*Dies laughing.* Good luck with that BlackOmega, that board made Txtmstrjoe go crazier in the head.


 Thanx blitz























Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


It is not quite the same. A8R32MVP is a great board to work with: very user friendly. As for UT CFX3200-DR, it is a TERRIBLE board to the user. You WILL start having bald patches in your head from where you pulled the hair out.


 The chipsets are the exact same ones is what I meant by that. And from what Ive heard that DFI support just sux in general.
And Joe's prob is the SATA controller, since I'm planning on using IDE Im hoping I wont have those issues.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


MOST ULi chips found their way onto ATI chipsetted boards. This is why they likely canned support.


 Just like nvidia, buy up the superior chipset and cast it away.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


*I have a validation link for 3003 MHz and screenshot for 3025 MHz. Can we get a validation link for 3025 MHz?



Ill see what I can do, I was getting L1 cache failures due to temps, Ive kind of been waiting until my AS5 "burns in" as they say. Ive been folding pretty much non stop since I put it on and havent seen temps go higher than 47*c, but Im still getting pretty high temps when stress testing (65/66*c).
When my other boards show up Im going to practice lapping and removing the IHS on my 3500+ Venice before I mess w/ my opty's. Then hopefully Ill be able to get it 3.1 stable. I got it to post that high, but the temps were scaring me so I downclocked it. Maybe it'll go higher if its naked.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *azim*


AFK, I go sleep im getting sick of this :O, thx anyways guys for helping me.


Azim, I apologize. I was under the impression your OS was coming up ok. In your BIOS under "_Main_", is your hard drive listed?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Then hopefully Ill be able to get it 3.1 stable. I got it to post that high, but the temps were scaring me so I downclocked it. Maybe it'll go higher if its naked.










BlackOmega, glad to see you're still trying to push for more









Do you think some of the heat issues might be related to your two 9600 cards in SLI?

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
The chipsets are the exact same ones is what I meant by that. And from what Ive heard that DFI support just sux in general.
And Joe's prob is the SATA controller, since I'm planning on using IDE Im hoping I wont have those issues.









That is the strange thing. My Abit AT8-32x used the same ULi southbridge and ATI northbridge as both the A8R32 and the CFX3200. Unlike Joe, my ULi was able to handle SATA quite happily. However, I did it in Vista; he tried in XP. Joe tells me that some DFI's were plagued with bad traces on the PCB.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Pioneerisloud: minor housekeeping issues. I do not suppose you have a CPU-Z link of your new S&M stable speed? Usually, I like to have a CPU-Z link for the speed, and a separate link for S&M stable.

For all others, I am updating the off-site roster right this minute.


CPUz validation link right here for you Blitz. I just wanted to make sure that it was known though, that my overclock is S&M stable! Seriously, I now know why you and Joe are so obsessive over S&M. It really is an accomplished feeling to see all tests passed!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, glad to see you're still trying to push for more









Do you think some of the heat issues might be related to your two 9600 cards in SLI?

Good luck


Thanx th|nk3r









The main reason Im pushing it in the first place is the SLI







. I doubt that the cards have anything to do with it. My case has pretty much been open for over a month now, so everything other than the CPU is actually really cool. I've got my computer over by the window, which is kinda drafty helps keep all the temps way down. The mobo doesnt get over 30/31*c ever. My video cards, idle @ 44*c @ 45% fan speed.
The high temps I was actually going to ask you guys about. First, how are the 2 cores physically inside the chip? Im assuming that 1 is on top of the other,given the large temp difference between the 2 cores. What is the max temp difference between the cores that you guys have observed? The max I've observed is 13*c....it seems a bit much to me but what do I know, Im just a greasemonkey


----------



## Blitz6804

Right next to each other. A delta of 3-5Âº C is common. Over 8-10Âº C you should consider remounting your heatsink.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


That is the strange thing. My Abit AT8-32x used the same ULi southbridge and ATI northbridge as both the A8R32 and the CFX3200. Unlike Joe, my ULi was able to handle SATA quite happily. However, I did it in Vista; he tried in XP. Joe tells me that some DFI's were plagued with bad traces on the PCB.



















Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Right next to each other. A delta of 3-5Âº C is common. Over 8-10Âº C you should consider remounting your heatsink.


 Hmmm...... then that really is odd. Well if that is the case I dont think remounting the heatsink is going to help. Considering that it consistantly does it with every heat sink. I've tried 3 different ones from the V1, the stock one and now the lapped BT. I'm thinkin that the IHS must be warped. Especially since the BT is hard mount to the board. Wonder if I can warranty it?







It does come with a 3year warranty since I bought it brand new. But technically theres nothing wrong with it. It works just fine, just doesn't cool properly. But then again that could warrant enough of a defect since the IHS is part of the CPU.







I guess Ill have to contact AMD and find out.


----------



## Blitz6804

One of the easiest ways to test a factory lap:

1) Take a piece of glass you know for a fact to be flat
2) Put a blob of TIM on said glass
3) Place the object to be tested onto the TIM; let only gravity work
4) Remove object and check spread pattern

Depending on the pattern, you can tell convexity, concavity, or unevenness.


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz, excellent procedure. I'll admit I never tried that but I have suggested it. Just thought I'd add in that my delta at the moment is literally 1C (28/27C) idle.

BlackOmega, didn't you already lap your BT? Did you ever get around to lapping the IHS? It does void the warranty but it is strongly recommended. Having both surfaces lapped will provide better results.

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


One of the easiest ways to test a factory lap:

1) Take a piece of glass you know for a fact to be flat
2) Put a blob of TIM on said glass
3) Place the object to be tested onto the TIM; let only gravity work
4) Remove object and check spread pattern

Depending on the pattern, you can tell convexity, concavity, or unevenness.


 Ill have to try that. Looks like I'm going to have to get a real straight edge and measure, Ill look for a variance of less than 0.002".

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, excellent procedure. I'll admit I never tried that but I have suggested it. Just thought I'd add in that my delta at the moment is literally 1C (28/27C) idle.

BlackOmega, didn't you already lap your BT? Did you ever get around to lapping the IHS? It does void the warranty but it is strongly recommended. Having both surfaces lapped will provide better results.

Good luck


 My variance in most apps, like right now Im folding the variance 4*c max. Its when stress testing, the higher the load the greater the variance.

And yeah the BT is lapped, I improvised a stright edge. Its so flat that a very thin sheet of paper wont go under any piece of it. So probably less then 0.005". But until I get a legitimate strightedge and my feeler guage I wont be able to verify that.

I was thinking of lapping the opty, but Im going to practice first







. I think I might do a write up of my results. Since the venice is new, Ill start with it bone stock with the stock heat sink, then Ill use the lapped BT on it, then Ill lap the Venice, then I'll strip it naked. Maybe Ill add some other variables like upping voltage etc. Once all is said and done, Ill do a suicide run with it and see what happens


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Or you could be real brave and just go topless.









On the serious side, taking the top off of the CPU is potentially risky; if done right, it will improve your temperature output significantly. I probably have the hottest summertime ambient temperatures in the Club, but my peak temperatures are definitely not the Club's highest.


----------



## Blitz6804

BlackOmega: I vehemently disagree with Thlnk3r. I would NOT lap a processor that has a 3-year warranty but is otherwise fine. On the other hand, if you had an OEM or second-hand processor or is already out of warranty, then by all means go for it. I would test the processor as said. If the lap it terrible, AMD might be willing to swap your processor. (Though, I doubt it.)

And I agree with Txtmstrjoe: decapitation of a processor COULD be fatal. (In my case, it was.)


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Or you could be real brave and just go topless.









On the serious side, taking the top off of the CPU is potentially risky; if done right, it will improve your temperature output significantly. I probably have the hottest summertime ambient temperatures in the Club, but my peak temperatures are definitely not the Club's highest.










 I think I might try that with the 165







That one has really bad degradation at high temps (hence I can only get it to run @ 2.3 stable). But I was able to achieve the highest FSB with it, 336 with 4 DIMMs. So I figure if I can keep it really cool I should be able to get much more out of it.
I cant get the 180 to take the board that high with 2 DIMM occupied.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


BlackOmega: I vehemently disagree with Thlnk3r. I would NOT lap a processor that has a 3-year warranty but is otherwise fine. On the other hand, if you had an OEM or second-hand processor or is already out of warranty, then by all means go for it. I would test the processor as said. If the lap it terrible, AMD might be willing to swap your processor. (Though, I doubt it.)

And I agree with Txtmstrjoe: decapitation of a processor COULD be fatal. (In my case, it was.)


 Well the opty 180 was OEM through tigerdirect (couldnt find a retail version new). But they specifically stated that it came with a 3yr manufacturer warranty. So I dont want to lap it either.

As for going topless, I've read a couple of how-to's (I think one was Joe's actually), and what I gather is, get a really sharp exacto/razor knife, heat the lid with a hair dryer to soften the glue, holding the knife as flat as possible work your way around it until it pops off, supposedly its only 3mm think. Then you must cover the little gold transistors(?) around the chip in the center with some sort of non conductive material.....epoxy perhaps, I think joe used electrical tape







.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


BlackOmega: I vehemently disagree with Thlnk3r. I would NOT lap a processor that has a 3-year warranty


Blitz, don't have to be so harsh about it. Obviously it's his own choice if he wants to lap the processor and also how am I suppose to know if he has a warranty or not? I am merely suggesting on what might provide the best results. I didn't think twice when I lapped my brand new Opteron 170. It's all or nothing









Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

True, but I do not like to void warranties if there is an alternative to keep the warranty.

BlackOmega: I do not know what TigerDirect told you. OEM CPUs are usually 1 year, PIB CPUs are 3 years. They get RMAed to the retailer and wholesaler respectively.


----------



## BlackOmega

Hmmm..... perhaps it is only 1 year. I could've sworn that it said 3yr when I bought it........







:


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
True, but I do not like to void warranties if there is an alternative to keep the warranty.

Blitz, yeah because you haven't overclocked any of your brand new components at all huh?









Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Hmmm..... perhaps it is only 1 year. I could've sworn that it said 3yr when I bought it........







:

BlackOmega, did it come with a heatsink? I believe most OEM processors are bare. Those I believe are covered under a 1 year warranty.


----------



## oneluvballer21

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
True, but I do not like to void warranties if there is an alternative to keep the warranty.

BlackOmega: I do not know what TigerDirect told you. OEM CPUs are usually 1 year, PIB CPUs are 3 years. They get RMAed to the retailer and wholesaler respectively.

When was the last time you used a warranty on a CPU...? Personally I never have, and I've lapped every CPU I've owned, which is around 12 lapping jobs by now, I think. Basically, if you plug it in and the computer works fine, then you can lap it. But you should be sure to test it before you do so. Chances of needing a warranty with a fully functional CPU are minuscule compared to a lemon out of the box, which receiving one as it is is already a minuscule chance...


----------



## Blitz6804

My second Socket A processor. As I said, my Asus with Via KT600 set the processor on fire. Other than that, I have never used the warranty.

And Thlnk3r, that is the difference between AMD and Intel. AMD: you may overclock your processor. If damage results therefrom, the warranty is dead. Intel: you may not overclock your processor. If you do so, your warranty is dead.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
And Thlnk3r, that is the difference between AMD and Intel. AMD: you may overclock your processor. If damage results therefrom, the warranty is dead. Intel: you may not overclock your processor. If you do so, your warranty is dead.

Blitz, thanks for clarifying.

So are you saying you NEVER overclocked your processor/video card that is (I'm assuming) still covered under the warranty?


----------



## oneluvballer21

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
My second Socket A processor. As I said, my Asus with Via KT600 set the processor on fire. Other than that, I have never used the warranty.

And Thlnk3r, that is the difference between AMD and Intel. AMD: you may overclock your processor. If damage results therefrom, the warranty is dead. Intel: you may not overclock your processor. If you do so, your warranty is dead.

Yeah, I've never needed a warranty. Plus I go through CPUs at a faster rate than normal, I would say... but I hope to stick with my current platform for a while at least (my sig rig)...but my FX-70's might likely be replaced by Opty 2218 HE's soon, and then possibly 2x quad in the future, when prices and performance warrant it. But my Opty 170 rig, no reason to change that one.


----------



## Blitz6804

I have never overclocked a CPU/GPU to the point of failure thereby voiding the warranty. In the case of my graphics cards, anything other than stock is unstable, so stock they run.

My CPUs have always ran at stock until I joined OCN. Then my rule was I will overclock it, but the voltage will not exceed the upper tolerance as per AMD's warranty. (In the case of most K8s, that is 1.400 V.) With my 939s, I ran them with the voltage at "auto" at all times like my K7s, K6s, and K5s.


----------



## thlnk3r

Sorry Blitz but overclocking and warranty just doesn't mix well with me. You either do it or you don't. I suppose you didn't know that using Arctic Silver 5 on a AMD processor voids your warranty? Same goes if you aren't using their supplied cooler.

I don't think we should discourage BlackOmega from trying to get better cooling results just because of a warranty. Unless he's raising his Vcore to some extreme level I doubt anything is going to happen to the processor. Perhaps a failing PSU could cause some catastrophic event but that's the risk you take.


----------



## Blitz6804

No such clause exists in the warranty that I recall. However, using a non-AMD-issued heatsink to cool your CPU does. (Or in the case of the black-box ones that ship without a heatsink, using a non-AMD-certified heatsink.)

I am not discouraging BlackOmega from trying to get better cooling results, but merely reminding him of the risks of such a procedure. Since killing my Toledo, I have been rather gunshy. Pioneerisloud is the go-to crazy guy.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
No such clause exists in the warranty that I recall. However, using a non-AMD-issued heatsink to cool your CPU does. (Or in the case of the black-box ones that ship without a heatsink, using a non-AMD-certified heatsink.)

Blitz, it's more of a rumor then anything but it's still a prevalent topic amongst many on the internetz. I might also point out that OEM processors are not warrantied through AMD but only through the retailer/reseller.


----------



## Blitz6804

Absolutely correct, as I had said in 10552.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Since killing my Toledo, I have been rather gunshy.


What exactly happend to your Toledo?

And depending on how things turn out with my Venice (test mule), I might just take the IHS off. I dont mind running it @ higher than recommended voltages as per AMD, but there is an upper limit of course. And it seems to be by popular consensus around 1.55v and 1.65v with h2o, and I bet you can get even higher with liquid nitrogen.

And I suppose thinker and oneluv's right, the CPU does work properly. Could it fail on its own accord and yet still fall under warranty? I kind of doubt it since its been OC'd pretty much from the moment I got it. I just want to get it higher







Probably more so to prove that the 939 is still a very capable chip, capable of hanging with and beating newer faster systems. Which it seems like I constantly do with suposedly inferior parts


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Absolutely correct, as I had said in 10552.

Blitz, sorry about that. I must of been reading to quick again


----------



## Blitz6804

And Thlnk3r, I just did some research into the Arctic Silver 5 you mentioned. It seems that policy was implemented at a time when the die was naked and so a conductive material like Arctic Silver 5 could cause a short if improperly applied. With the IHSes of today, it would be hard to cause a short in the first place, so I find such a policy hard to enforce if it still exists.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
And Thlnk3r, I just did some research into the Arctic Silver 5 you mentioned. It seems that policy was implemented at a time when the die was naked and so a conductive material like Arctic Silver 5 could cause a short if improperly applied. With the IHSes of today, it would be hard to cause a short in the first place, so I find such a policy hard to enforce if it still exists.

Blitz, sorry perhaps I need to be a little clearer. If AS5 or any other thermal compound is noticeable on any of the pins then the warranty is void. Also you can use any TIM if used properly.

Plain and simple, if you're worried about warranties then you shouldn't be overclocking or modding


----------



## Blitz6804

No, not true. According to AMD's policy (instituted some 6 years ago now), the use of any thermal compound other than a stock thermal pad voids the warranty even if used perfectly correctly. You may use one particular blend of Shin Etsu for evaluation purposes only. After that, you must install a thermal pad. (This is for retail processors only; same as the stock-heatsink only rule.) For OEM processors, you may use any flavor of TIM as far as I could tell, but the heatsink must be approved by AMD.

EDIT: I see. Apparently, the TIM policy changed from 2002 to 2005. I thought it might, the policy was a dumb one. "Unless you use the pad that came on the CPU, you may only use Shin Etsu G 749. If you use Shin Estu G 749, you may only use it for evaluation purposes, but then you must reinstall a thermal pad." The apparent stupidity must be why they got rid of it. And Thlnk3r, where did your hat go?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
No, not true. According to AMD's policy (instituted some 6 years ago now), the use of any thermal compound other than a stock thermal pad voids the warranty even if used perfectly correctly. You may use one particular blend of Shin Etsu for evaluation purposes only. After that, you must install a thermal pad. (This is for retail processors only; same as the stock-heatsink only rule.) For OEM processors, you may use any flavor of TIM as far as I could tell, but the heatsink must be approved by AMD.

Blitz, check out this link on OCN: http://www.overclock.net/amd-cpus/40...ilver-5-a.html. This is from someone that actually called AMD. If you'd like I can also call AMD tomorrow to see what the rep says?

Btw let's stop discussing this in here since it's off topic. Please PM me


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


*"S&M and rthdribl are presented "As is" with no warranty expressed or implied by txtmstrjoe, OCN, or any other party in this thread. If you run either program and it breaks a component in your computer, or makes you realize your Overclock is not stable, none of the aforementioned parties will be liable for your loss except yourself."


So, does this mean that running S&M is dangerous?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


So, does this mean that running S&M is dangerous?


 It can be, S&M stresses the CPU harder than any other test out there. So parts can fail if temps and such are not monitored. 
Basically, what that says is they are not responsible if you fry your CPU or other various components.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Oh, geez, the stuff I miss when I'm on the phone with my girlfriend...

Here's my one comment, and I'll try to keep it short: You can't go into this (overclocking) without knowing some basic rules.

Overclocking is risky; any and every risk you do in pursuit of performance through overclocking you assume freely on your own.

The loss of warranty coverage is often one of those risks. If you want to overclock, know that your warranty is basically kaput. Honor bounds you to always be mindful of this when making claims. Some people may lie about this point, but I personally will not do it (lie) when asked by the manufacturer if I overclocked something.

It is assumed that, since you are a part of this group (OCN), you have an interest in overclocking. Therefore, it should be quite unnecessary to lecture people about the need to respect the terms of a manufacturer's warranty coverage. This is especially true if the one doing the lecturing has no legal leg to stand on since he/she also overclocks. Suffice it to say that anyone who overclocks or does any kind of modifications to his/her equipment ought to be aware of the risks involved (including the violation of the entirety of the terms of the warranty coverage); ignorance is not an excuse, but this is entirely between an individual and the manufacturer.
It's a bit, I don't know, inappropriate to call anyone out when it comes to respecting warranties. That's up to the person who made the choice to violate certain terms of it (thereby violating the entire warranty agreement with the manufacturer); compliance is not a matter of being selective as far as which terms of the warranty are violated. Once you willingly choose to make these parts run faster than stock, you've already kissed that warranty good-bye.

Before I get called out now for my Asus RMA, here's a reminder: Asus has no such qualms about OCing their motherboards. Thus when mine broke and I arranged for an RMA for my board, I did not violate any warranty terms.

We're all free to do what we want. And that includes violating the warranty, if we so choose to do so in our pursuit of performance. But if your parts break in such a pursuit, that's a risk you yourself took, and have no one else to blame.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


So, does this mean that running S&M is dangerous?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


It can be, S&M stresses the CPU harder than any other test out there. So parts can fail if temps and such are not monitored. 
Basically, what that says is they are not responsible if you fry your CPU or other various components.


Sorry for the double post, but I thought I'd answer this before heading for bed.









S&M is, by far, the most demanding stability tester that I have ever used. It has a well-deserved reputation for literally *breaking* weak or failing components if they are subjected to S&M. I witnessed this capability first-hand with a set of DDR500 Corsairs. This RAM kit basically could never run at its certified DDR500 speed, no matter what adjustments I tried. When I discovered S&M, I read about its fearsome reputation. Curiosity got the better of me and I ran my system through its entire suite of tests.

The Corsairs finally cried enough, and I hosed my OS at that time because S&M killed the RAM.

At least Corsair treated me well and refunded my money (they were no longer making that RAM kit and could not replace it with an equivalent set) completely, after I explained that my previous attempts to get it to run at DDR500 were never successful. Corsair determined that it was a faulty kit, and all turned out well.









This particular personal incident is one reason why we have that disclaimer on the first post of the Club thread.







If you decide to do anything, any risks and any consequences you assume purely on your own.


----------



## Evil Eddie

ok, OCed my puter back to 2.7 to this and ran s&m and failed on cache 1 passed on cache 2 what does those mean?
passed cpu (integer) mmx/sse is not selected and failed cpu (fpu) and what is this vga heating warp tunnel thing?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Evil Eddie*


ok, OCed my puter back to 2.7 to this and ran s&m and failed on cache 1 passed on cache 2 what does those mean?
passed cpu (integer) mmx/sse is not selected and failed cpu (fpu) and what is this vga heating warp tunnel thing?


Evil Eddie, the OC is not stable. Try adding a little bit of VCore incrementally. If the test goes on for a longer duration, then you can deduce that the lack of VCore was the cause of the test failure (instability). If the additional VCore makes no difference, then you're likely beyond the limits of your components' overclocking capabilities already (i.e., you need to dial the speed down until you find stability again).

Good luck.


----------



## Evil Eddie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Evil Eddie, the OC is not stable. Try adding a little bit of VCore incrementally. If the test goes on for a longer duration, then you can deduce that the lack of VCore was the cause of the test failure (instability). If the additional VCore makes no difference, then you're likely beyond the limits of your components' overclocking capabilities already (i.e., you need to dial the speed down until you find stability again).

Good luck.










raised vcore .025 more, passed cache 1 this time but still failed cpu(fpu) what helps that? it has been on for an hour now, no hangs no BSOD(knock on wood).


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Evil Eddie*


raised vcore .025 more, passed cache 1 this time but still failed cpu(fpu) what helps that? it has been on for an hour now, no hangs no BSOD(knock on wood).


You're on the right track, Evil Eddie. Increase your VCore gradually again; I'm betting you'll progress further into the stress test.









Good luck.









(I wish the same for myself in falling asleep.







I keep waking up.)


----------



## Evil Eddie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


You're on the right track, Evil Eddie. Increase your VCore gradually again; I'm betting you'll progress further into the stress test.









Good luck.









(I wish the same for myself in falling asleep.







I keep waking up.)


ya i was gana say, didnt you say your heading to bed? lol


----------



## azim

HELP me out guys, I went to play CS game, then I got bluescreen, and my Pc shutted off, Now i cant even start my PC, there comes error message: "DISC BOOT FAILURE, INSERT SYSTEM DISC AND PRESS ENTER" I have tried many things to fix this, without any sucsess, hope u can help me anyway. I have tried to Load BIOS defult settings etc.
Here is several pictures of the error messages I got. I havent overclocked! Its not about it.

http://img237.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1305si4.jpg
http://img504.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1307zf8.jpg
http://img509.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1311gs0.jpg
http://img525.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1308yo9.jpg
http://img167.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1310cj2.jpg
http://img261.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1314nr0.jpg


----------



## mudd

http://www.overclock.net/amd-cpus/14...oval-pics.html

meh thats all i could find on me removing my IHS. it has a couple of pictures, but i was pretty drunk so i don't think i wrote a step by step instruction book to do it.


----------



## mudd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *azim* 
HELP me out guys, I went to play CS game, then I got bluescreen, and my Pc shutted off, Now i cant even start my PC, there comes error message: "DISC BOOT FAILURE, INSERT SYSTEM DISC AND PRESS ENTER" I have tried many things to fix this, without any sucsess, hope u can help me anyway. I have tried to Load BIOS defult settings etc.
Here is several pictures of the error messages I got. I havent overclocked! Its not about it.

http://img237.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1305si4.jpg
http://img504.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1307zf8.jpg
http://img509.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1311gs0.jpg
http://img525.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1308yo9.jpg
http://img167.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1310cj2.jpg
http://img261.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1314nr0.jpg

honestly what i would do in your case is reset everything in bios to default by taking out the cmos battery for an hour or two (recommended like 10 hours). then i would format c:/ and reinstall windows xp. after reading everything that's about all i can come up with.


----------



## azim

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mudd* 
honestly what i would do in your case is reset everything in bios to default by taking out the cmos battery for an hour or two (recommended like 10 hours). then i would format c:/ and reinstall windows xp. after reading everything that's about all i can come up with.

Umm ****, there have to be other way XD becouse in my hard drive, there is a lot important files and pictures that I dont have anywhere else :[
And I have reseted my BIOS, it doesnt make things different.


----------



## mudd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *azim* 
Umm ****, there have to be other way XD becouse in my hard drive, there is a lot important files and pictures that I dont have anywhere else :[
And I have reseted my BIOS, it doesnt make things different.

just try to reinstall windows w/o reformatting. all you have to do is write over your old system.


----------



## azim

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mudd* 
just try to reinstall windows w/o reformatting. all you have to do is write over your old system.

Oh lol im stupid XD So what happens when I remoeve CMOS battery, will my Motherboard and stuff be allright, cause i dont wanna ruin motherboard also XD If its safe, I will remove the battery for next night, if I dont figure anything better out.

Thx

BRB 3h


----------



## mudd

just don't turn your computer on w/ the cmos battery out. turn your comp off, take out the battery and you'll be rollin. just put it back in before you turn it on.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mudd*


http://www.overclock.net/amd-cpus/14...oval-pics.html

meh thats all i could find on me removing my IHS. it has a couple of pictures, but i was pretty drunk so i don't think i wrote a step by step instruction book to do it.


----------



## TestECull

Removing the cmos battery will only reset the bios. Booting without one will give your motherboard severe amnesia, but I haven't noticed any permanant ill effects from doing so.


----------



## pez

About the blue screen. That sounds like a memory problem to me. My next guess is graphics card drivers. So try memtest86, and then try a graphics card driver reinstall.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *azim* 
HELP me out guys, I went to play CS game, then I got bluescreen, and my Pc shutted off, Now i cant even start my PC, there comes error message: "DISC BOOT FAILURE, INSERT SYSTEM DISC AND PRESS ENTER" I have tried many things to fix this, without any sucsess, hope u can help me anyway. I have tried to Load BIOS defult settings etc.
Here is several pictures of the error messages I got. I havent overclocked! Its not about it.

I could have swore we addressed this a few posts ago, but my guess is that your MBR broke.

*Searches thread.*

Yes, we did:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 

Quote:


Originally Posted by *azim* 
HELP ME OUT GUYS! So, I just opened CSS game, which i wanted to play, then my computer turned to Blue scree, then it shutted down. Now I cant boot my PC anymore, it is asking for "Disc boot failure, Insert system disc and press enter" So what's wrong now, I ain't pro with PC, I didnt overclock any component, HELP me out fellows.

As Thlnk3r said, an unstable overclock likely fried your MBR. This is fortunately an easy fix. Put in your Windows install CD, enter the recovery console, and type "fixmbr." When done, reboot, and it should boot properly.

BEFORE you do that though, check your boot priority in the BIOS. Sometimes, the Hard Drive / CD gets flipped.


----------



## thlnk3r

Azim, are you still receiving the same error message as shown in Screenshot #1? The data on the drive can easily be retrieved as long as the drive isn't permanently damaged. I usually use an external enclosure, a LiveCD and rstudio to recover the data. In your case it might be easiest to slave the Samsung drive in another computer and grab the data that way. If it's applications you want then it's probably not going to work. Typically documents, pictures, movies ect are the easiest to grab.

Let us know

Good luck


----------



## azim

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Azim, are you still receiving the same error message as shown in Screenshot #1? The data on the drive can easily be retrieved as long as the drive isn't permanently damaged. I usually use an external enclosure, a LiveCD and rstudio to recover the data. In your case it might be easiest to slave the Samsung drive in another computer and grab the data that way. If it's applications you want then it's probably not going to work. Typically documents, pictures, movies ect are the easiest to grab.

Let us know

Good luck










Ok, here is little upgrade, I only got now one Error message: "DISC BOOT FAILURE, INSERT SYSTEM DISC AND PRESS ENTER" 
So its getting little better, So what do u recommend me to do now?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *azim*


Ok, here is little upgrade, I only got now one Error message: "DISC BOOT FAILURE, INSERT SYSTEM DISC AND PRESS ENTER" 
So its getting little better, So what do u recommend me to do now?


Azim, in your BIOS go to the "Boot" menu. That option is located up top next to "Exit". Check your "Boot Device Priority" and change the _1st Boot Device_ to "Hard Disk". Also make sure under, "Hard Disk Drives" (in the Boot menu) that your drive is listed first and not a removable device or a Bootable Add-in Card. I have your manual right in front of me so the settings I am viewing should be pretty close.

Let us know what happens

Good luck


----------



## HothBase

Alright joe, thanks.
Don't think I'll bother with S&M, I see no real reason to go through such a thorough stability check when I'm not really that far from stock and it never crashes on me.
I couldn't afford to replace my system at the moment if it breaks on me, and I wouldn't want to either, at least not before the Phenom II.
I think I would rather be a little "unstable" than rock solid as a dead brick


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


I think I would rather be a little "unstable" than rock solid as a dead brick


----------



## azim

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Azim, in your BIOS go to the "Boot" menu. That option is located up top next to "Exit". Check your "Boot Device Priority" and change the _1st Boot Device_ to "Hard Disk". Also make sure under, "Hard Disk Drives" (in the Boot menu) that your drive is listed first and not a removable device or a Bootable Add-in Card. I have your manual right in front of me so the settings I am viewing should be pretty close.

Let us know what happens

Good luck










Nothing happens. It's same like before


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *azim*


Nothing happens. It's same like before


click


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *azim* 
Ok, here is little upgrade, I only got now one Error message: "DISC BOOT FAILURE, INSERT SYSTEM DISC AND PRESS ENTER"
So its getting little better, So what do u recommend me to do now?

Azim, the next step would be to attempt a repair on the MBR (master boot record). After POST the BIOS looks for the MBR which basically tells the hard drive what to load ect. The MBR holds the drives primary partition table. If the MBR becomes corrupt or damaged then you'll run into problems.

You can try a few things. First give the "fixmbr" command a try. This was suggesed by Blitz in a earlier post (thanks Blitz). Here are a few more details about this: http://pcsupport.about.com/od/termsf/p/fixmbr.htm.

You could also try replacing some files. Check out these quick instrutions: http://www.indiastudychannel.com/res...ING-Files.aspx. I'm not saying this procedure will fix the problem but it's worth a shot.

Good luck


----------



## azim

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Azim, the next step would be to attempt a repair on the MBR (master boot record). After POST the BIOS looks for the MBR which basically tells the hard drive what to load ect. The MBR holds the drives primary partition table. If the MBR becomes corrupt or damaged then you'll run into problems.

You can try a few things. First give the "fixmbr" command a try. This was suggesed by Blitz in a earlier post (thanks Blitz). Here are a few more details about this: http://pcsupport.about.com/od/termsf/p/fixmbr.htm.

You could also try replacing some files. Check out these quick instrutions: http://www.indiastudychannel.com/res...ING-Files.aspx. I'm not saying this procedure will fix the problem but it's worth a shot.

Good luck









I got it fixed by Formating, reinstalling my XP, but i ****ed up with it, by deleting accidently all my files, but im still happy so i go this fixed,

THX to everybody that helped me!


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *azim* 
I got it fixed by Formating, reinstalling my XP, but i ****ed up with it, by deleting accidently all my files,


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*











































Guys, I'm building a Phenom rig for my friend to replace his old computer. The new one is in my profile if anyone is interested, I haven't handpicked the parts tough, they come in a bundle, I'm just there to put it all together.









Anyway, he parts come with a copy of Windows XP x64 but he is thinking of buying Vista instead. If he does, then he has offered me the XP x64 as thanks for the help if I want it.
But I'm not sure if I need it, is there anything to be gained though x64 with just 2GB of RAM? Like higher bandwidth?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


























Hueristic, it isn't certain but his MBR was probably corrupt/damaged and that is why he couldn't boot into the OS. A simple reinstallation of the operating system resolved his issues but in same time he lost all of his data. Though I do believe data recovery from the last install was more than likely possible.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


But I'm not sure if I need it, is there anything to be gained though x64 with just 2GB of RAM? Like higher bandwidth?


HothBase, perhaps the 64-but users would be able to answer that better but the first things that come to mind are being able to run more then 3GB's of memory and having the ability to run 64-bit applications in their designated environment.

Hope that helps


----------



## Evil Eddie

dumb question im sure i know the answer to, my video card that i have been using for the longest time now is a gforce 6700 gs it came with a stock huge heatsink, shouldnt it have a fan and sink? it is hot to touch, could that cause the fail in prime95? could i just lower something on the card to keep it from running hot?

im running memtest and its going fine, prime ran for about 40 minutes last night then my stupid "monitor shut off after 20 min." came on so moved the mouse and the one monitor just shut off. so after leaving the puter off for about 20 minutes i started it back up and started prime again and it failed in the first test.


----------



## mudd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Evil Eddie* 
dumb question im sure i know the answer to, my video card that i have been using for the longest time now is a gforce 6700 gs it came with a stock huge heatsink, shouldnt it have a fan and sink? it is hot to touch, could that cause the fail in prime95? could i just lower something on the card to keep it from running hot?

im running memtest and its going fine, prime ran for about 40 minutes last night then my stupid "monitor shut off after 20 min." came on so moved the mouse and the one monitor just shut off. so after leaving the puter off for about 20 minutes i started it back up and started prime again and it failed in the first test.

a video card shouldn't cause p95 to fail. p95 stresses your cpu for the most part. just put like a 120mm fan on your video card and zip tie it to the heatsink.


----------



## Blitz6804

If you only have 2 GB of RAM, I would advise against using a 64-bit operating system personally. In my experience, all x86 programs in an x64 environment use about 150% of the RAM that they would use in an x86 environment natively. However, I have only dabbled in Vista x64 and Ubuntu x64, never XP x64. Txtmstrjoe uses XP x64 if I recall correctly.

The only time I would suggest using a 64-bit operating system with 2 GB of RAM is if you want to use a pair of 4870x2s in Crossfire, which would use 4 GB of video memory.

Evil Eddie: Older/slower graphics cards could get by being passively cooled, that is why there is no fan on the sink. If you have the card overclocked, a fan may be back in order. And as mudd has suggested, a video card should not cause P95 to fail.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Hueristic, it isn't certain but his MBR was probably corrupt/damaged and that is why he couldn't boot into the OS. A simple reinstallation of the operating system resolved his issues but in same time he lost all of his data. Though I do believe data recovery from the last install was more than likely possible.











Quote:


Originally Posted by *mudd* 
a video card shouldn't cause p95 to fail. p95 stresses your cpu for the most part. just put like a 120mm fan on your video card and zip tie it to the heatsink.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
If you only have 2 GB of RAM, I would advise against using a 64-bit operating system personally. In my experience, all x86 programs in an x64 environment use about 150% of the RAM that they would use in an x86 environment natively. However, I have only dabbled in Vista x64 and Ubuntu x64, never XP x64. *Txtmstrjoe uses XP x64 if I recall correctly.
*
The only time I would suggest using a 64-bit operating system with 2 GB of RAM is if you want to use a pair of 4870x2s in Crossfire, which would use 4 GB of video memory.

Evil Eddie: Older/slower graphics cards could get by being passively cooled, that is why there is no fan on the sink. If you have the card overclocked, a fan may be back in order. And as mudd has suggested, a video card should not cause P95 to fail.

Because of historically spotty driver support (and also because a 64-bit OS is always more costly than 32-bit), I've never used a 64-bit OS.









That is, until I get my dual-booting server up and running. But that machine is not yet online and live. Somehow I cannot summon the gumption to finish this most prosaic of machines.


----------



## froggy1986

Hey everyone, I know I haven't been around for quite some time, just wanted to update everyone, my rig has a few changes made to it since the last time I was in here.... First I just replaced my PSU, with a new Ultra X2 550 watt. I also got pio's old GPU now. I am still working on running the testing and working on a higher OC, but as for now my temps are looking much better since I redid pio's wiring job, but mostly because this one is modular. The new pix are below, let me know what ya think... Thanks


----------



## nategr8ns

Looks good! But there's not enough green now







.
What are those switches or buttons on your expansion slot covers?


----------



## froggy1986

Well I am slowly getting rid of the green due to my plan on EVENTUALLY painting my case, inside and out. The inside is going to be black, and i will eventually be adding a bunch of UV stuff into it, just gotta get the spare $$. As for the switches, those are the switches for my cathodes, which you can hardly tell are even there right now, shoulda had them on in the pix now that I think about it.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Good pix, froggy!

I see quite a few familiar friends in there, too.


----------



## froggy1986

lol Yeah pio had mentioned, 90% of my current build, are parts from ppl in this club. Thanks btw for the input, glad to know I did a good job, even without pioneers help...


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


If you only have 2 GB of RAM, I would advise against using a 64-bit operating system personally. In my experience, all x86 programs in an x64 environment use about 150% of the RAM that they would use in an x86 environment natively. However, I have only dabbled in Vista x64 and Ubuntu x64, never XP x64. Txtmstrjoe uses XP x64 if I recall correctly.

The only time I would suggest using a 64-bit operating system with 2 GB of RAM is if you want to use a pair of 4870x2s in Crossfire, which would use 4 GB of video memory.

Evil Eddie: Older/slower graphics cards could get by being passively cooled, that is why there is no fan on the sink. If you have the card overclocked, a fan may be back in order. And as mudd has suggested, a video card should not cause P95 to fail.


I've run 64 bit Vista for a while now and I don't notice any difference really. Nothing runs slower or faster than it normally did in 32 bit. Of course I did it for future upgradeabilty, but I really can't tell a difference.


----------



## Evil Eddie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Evil Eddie: Older/slower graphics cards could get by being passively cooled, that is why there is no fan on the sink. If you have the card overclocked, a fan may be back in order. And as mudd has suggested, a video card should not cause P95 to fail.


the card is not OCed, i dont know how to do that,







i put a fan on the cover door that blows on the cards, so that should help, at least to move air around there.

to all, couple of questions: when changing the cpu speed lets say 220 x12 making it 2640 to 330 x8 making 2640 what all does that do? i know it changes the hypertransport like right now im at 300x8 hyper at 600, cpuz reads my HT link at 901, but if i was at 200x12 my hyper transport would have to be 800 for it to read 900. am i talking in tongues here? i hope im making sense... lol

and could some one explain to me what the CL 2.5 clocks, tRCD 4 clocks, tRP 2 clocks, tRAS 8 clocks, tRC 12 clocks, CR 2T is? or point me to a site that will explain those.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *froggy1986* 
Hey everyone, I know I haven't been around for quite some time, just wanted to update everyone, my rig has a few changes made to it since the last time I was in here.... First I just replaced my PSU, with a new Ultra X2 550 watt. I also got pio's old GPU now. I am still working on running the testing and working on a higher OC, but as for now my temps are looking much better since I redid pio's wiring job, but mostly because this one is modular. The new pix are below, let me know what ya think... Thanks


















Man looks like you need some single slot cards. It seems as though that dual slot makes the second pciex16 slot useless.


----------



## Blitz6804

220x12 is 2640 as is 330x8 as you have said. The difference here is where the RAM works out. On a 200:166 divider on the former, you would have the RAM running at DDR 352. On a 200:133 divider on the latter, you would have the RAM running at DDR 406. All other things equal, you would expect the 330x8 to be the faster system.

As to hypertransport: hypertransport at 600 means 3x. HTT = 300 with HTx = 3 yields 900 MHz on the hypertransport. If you want 900 with the 800 divider (4x mutliplier) you would need to be at an HTT of 225. (225 x 4 = 900).

As to the timings, I cannot explain them no. I have read a really good analogy of boxes in a warehouse, but for the life of me, I cannot remember it now.

Froggy: the RAM likes to be in slots 3/4 for dual-channel mode? Or is slot 2 blocked by the cooler?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Evil Eddie* 
the card is not OCed, i dont know how to do that,







i put a fan on the cover door that blows on the cards, so that should help, at least to move air around there.

to all, couple of questions: when changing the cpu speed lets say 220 x12 making it 2640 to 330 x8 making 2640 what all does that do? i know it changes the hypertransport like right now im at 300x8 hyper at 600, cpuz reads my HT link at 901, but if i was at 200x12 my hyper transport would have to be 800 for it to read 900. am i talking in tongues here? i hope im making sense... lol

and could some one explain to me what the CL 2.5 clocks, tRCD 4 clocks, tRP 2 clocks, tRAS 8 clocks, tRC 12 clocks, CR 2T is? or point me to a site that will explain those.

Honestly I dont believe there to be a difference in how you get to your desired CPU speed. Wether it be 220x12 or 330x8. But the FSB does affect some of the other settings like HT and RAM, so youll have to calculate to get them where they need to be.
From what I gather, lowering the multiplier is a way to OC when your CPU @ stock multiplier doesnt want to go any higher. Like my cpu at the factory 12x doesnt like to go above 2.8ghz. But @ 11x I have gotten it to post @ 3.1ghz.
Once I figure out my cooling issues, Ill shoot for more.

And as for memory timings, try doing a google search you'll probably come up with a lot better and more informative articles about the subject. But be prepared to do some reading


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *froggy1986* 
lol Yeah pio had mentioned, 90% of my current build, are parts from ppl in this club. Thanks btw for the input, glad to know I did a good job, even without pioneers help...

Froggy, wow that cable management is clean! I hardly see any wires. Great job

Your welcome for the MSI board









Good luck


----------



## Evil Eddie

from what im gathering this quote found here RAM Timing Explained

Quote:



Command Rate This is the setting that selects the speed of the SDRAM signal controller. If set to 1T, then the memory controller is running in synchronization with your bus speed. 1T will increase your memory bandwidth but a LOT of memory brands will really have trouble running this at decent speeds. This setting will have to be played with a LOT while your increasing your FSB speed. It does in fact increase your memory bandwidth but will often lower your max bus speed so much that it just isn't worth using.


i could raise my CR higher than 2T(which is where it is stock) and maybe that is causing fails? sense my chips are dif kinds, kingsten and some other brand. or does it go higher than 2T? i dont wana mess with the ram yet, i just wana get 2.7 stable. i was hoping for 2.8 a while back, but after finally OCing it i see that i would need alot more stuff.


----------



## froggy1986

Thanks so much guys, glad to know that a girl can do good work on computers once in awhile....As for my ram, if we would have done it the way most mobos are arranged, it would have made it go single channel, but how it is now, is dual channel, no worries blitz.

As for the board Thinkerbell,(hehehe I haven't forgotten) thanks again, but that's another thing that will soon be replaced, we are getting another one of pios boards that we are trading a GPU for. I will see if I can't get a higher OC out of that board than I can with this one. My NB seems to overheat, and pio thinks there's something wrong with some of my sensors or something like that...lol but one of us will def keep you guys all updated.


----------



## TestECull

Hey guys, my power supply exploded, but 90 Nanometers of Glory survived!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Hey guys, I have been testing my system when I have the extra time. I was able to run Orthos for 20 minutes today. That is 15 minutes longer than I have been able to. The RAM is reduced to DDR462 currently. I will run Orthos and OCCT for an hour first before I start fiddling with the RAM. Currently my Vcore is at 1.58 Volts. I will reduce this to see if it is still stable. The only reason I raised it so high was make sure I could grab a bit more stability. Anyway here is a screen shot for you


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah Froggy, that thermal sensor is VERY annoying. (On her board, her Opty 170 cores read 45Âº C and 85Âº C under load. The same chip with same cooler on Pioneer's board reads the more-correct 45/50Âº C or so.)

TestECull: Bad luck on the powersupply, but at least your processor lives!

GuardianOdin: What happened to your S&M stable 3010 MHz?


----------



## TestECull

The PSU is the only thing that died, somehow. Nothing else was harmed. I don't know how, as there was a huge shower of sparks in my case, but nothing else was harmed.

Not the PSU's fault, tho. I found the source of the short, a cockroach that had become welded to the PCB. Zap zap zap.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
Hey guys, my power supply exploded, but 90 Nanometers of Glory survived!

TestECull, the PSU literally "exploded"? Smoke and sparks? A customer brought me there computer that had problems turning on. In the process of cleaning out the computer with 80PSI of air I stumbled upon several dead cockroaches in the PSU. I immediantely became hungry and went to lunch. Anyways...cockroaches and power supplies just don't go to well together









I hope you find a replacement. Newegg always has some MIR deals on the Corsair series PSU's.

Good luck


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Yeah Froggy, that thermal sensor is VERY annoying. (On her board, her Opty 170 cores read 45Âº C and 85Âº C under load. The same chip with same cooler on Pioneer's board reads the more-correct 45/50Âº C or so.)

TestECull: Bad luck on the powersupply, but at least your processor lives!

GuardianOdin: What happened to your S&M stable 3010 MHz?

It's called a crappy PSU, My CPU is stable at 3024 Mhz. It's the RAM I'm having issues with. I believe it may just a setting that is off and I'm just not seeing it. I'm keeping my fingers crossed the RAM is still good after that Ultra 600watt PSU that died.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Kinda makes me wonder about cockroaches now, especially why they might be attracted to mainboards and power supplies.









Come to think of it, thlnk3r, your comment above makes me wonder about you, too... I don't know if I'd have an appetite after seeing dead cockroaches!


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
And as for memory timings, try doing a google search you'll probably come up with a lot better and more informative articles about the subject. But be prepared to do some reading



















Quote:


Originally Posted by *froggy1986* 
I will see if I can't get a higher OC out of that board than I can with this one.











Quote:


Originally Posted by *froggy1986* 
but one of us will def keep you guys all updated.

























Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
Hey guys, my power supply exploded, but 90 Nanometers of Glory survived!
























When I lived in Florida I had a Major Cockroach problem and went insane on them. I created a DCZ(Dead Cockroach Zone) on my kitchen floor and in 3 days the floor was covered with dead bugs!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
The PSU is the only thing that died, somehow. Nothing else was harmed.

Normally a failed PS will not harm components.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
TestECull, the PSU literally "exploded"?

That will only happen if the Caps get hit with a surge. But them blowing will stop any spikes to reach internal components.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
I immediantely became hungry and went to lunch. Anyways...cockroaches and power supplies just don't go to well together
























:barf: Hmm must be a different board that has the barf imoticon









Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Kinda makes me wonder about cockroaches now, especially why they might be attracted to mainboards and power supplies.









Come to think of it, thlnk3r, your comment above makes me wonder about you, too... I don't know if I'd have an appetite after seeing dead cockroaches!









Bugs in the computer literally came from ants getting onto the circuit boards! :Lol
I obviousely have access to the keyboard at the moment.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
It's called a crappy PSU, My CPU is stable at 3024 Mhz. It's the RAM I'm having issues with. I believe it may just a setting that is off and I'm just not seeing it. I'm keeping my fingers crossed the RAM is still good after that Ultra 600watt PSU that died.

Guardian, in terms of memory what do you have everything set at? Maybe we can help.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Normally a failed PS will not harm components.

Hueristic, normally not but I have seen in some rare cases it does. I worked on a machine where the PSU failed and took out the hard drive but everything else was fine. In this particular issue the molex connecter that was connected to the hard drive was emitting smoke.

Good luck


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


In this particular issue the molex connecter that was connected to the hard drive was emitting smoke.







































I would pay too see that! I did have one Mb (SuperMicro catch on fire at the AT connector, But I fixed the traces and used it for another few years and still have it today. I'll try to dig it up one of these days and if I can borrow a camera I'll post a pic for ****s and giggles.


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


TestECull, the PSU literally "exploded"? Smoke and sparks? A customer brought me there computer that had problems turning on. In the process of cleaning out the computer with 80PSI of air I stumbled upon several dead cockroaches in the PSU. I immediantely became hungry and went to lunch. Anyways...cockroaches and power supplies just don't go to well together









I hope you find a replacement. Newegg always has some MIR deals on the Corsair series PSU's.

Good luck



Yes, there was a shower of sparks heading down from the PSU intake to the bottom of the case. It exploded. As a matter of fact, I had just clicked on this thread to check in when it failed.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Kinda makes me wonder about cockroaches now, especially why they might be attracted to mainboards and power supplies.









Come to think of it, thlnk3r, your comment above makes me wonder about you, too... I don't know if I'd have an appetite after seeing dead cockroaches!











Don't forget routers!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*











Normally a failed PS will not harm components.



I know someone that had a PSU edit his entire PC, RMA everything just to have the same PSU(Now back from RMA) edit his entire PC *AGAIN*. lol.

BTW, the short was on the 120VAC side of the PCB, not the 12/5/3.3VDC side. I do know that the transformer is now fried because of the short across it's terminals. A bunch of stuff near it is also cooked, lots of black marks/debris and a few completely destroyed components. I will provide some pix.


----------



## pez

Sadly my computer locked up at 2.57 yesterday while playing fallout








, so I'm running 2.55ghz and 3-3-2-7 and it's just fine.


----------



## TestECull

Up your Vcore a notch, then see what it does.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Sadly my computer locked up at 2.57 yesterday while playing fallout







, so I'm running 2.55ghz and 3-3-2-7 and it's just fine.


Pez, sorry to hear that. Did all of the stability testing pass at 2.57Ghz? I had these same issues with Company of Heroes and my memory sub-timings.

Good luck


----------



## HothBase

*I was inspired by froggy's cable management so I decided to tidy up here as well. At least as much as I could, I don't really have that much space in my chassis.*

*Here is a relatively old picture, but it's basically what the inside looked like earlier today.*









*And here is what I was able accomplish.







*









*The front looks kinda stuffed with wires but it's not at all as bad as it looks as you can see from a different angle. I don't have any other pictures at the moment though.
I especially like what I was able to do to the S-ATA cable with a pencil. Looks a lot better!







*


----------



## TestECull

Hrn...looks like my Xmas money is going for a PSU. I'll be using an Echo-STAR 680W loaner till then. IT's an OK PSU with ample amperages, but the brand is just...yeah. 40 bucks for 680 watts. I'm going to get a Corsair or Antec of similar wattage after Christmas, tho.


----------



## BlackOmega

OK fellers Im gonna need some help here. I got the DFI lanparty nf4 ultra d/g in the mail today, got it all put together with my opty 165, 2x512 hyper x, 1 of my 6800's and the rest of my sig rig. 
Plug it in, the ram and the standby LED's both light up. When I hit the power button all the fans spin up and it starts to go through the debug. The video doesnt come on, the debug gets to the CPU (3 LED's lit up) and the power button is flashing and thats where it stays. What am I doing wrong here? Do I have something hooked up wrong? 
BTW, the vid card is in the lower slot due to the northbridge heatsink. 
Any ideas?


----------



## Blitz6804

BlackOmega: Thlnk3r will likely hook you up with the debug guide.

TestECull: I bought a Silverstone Olympia OP 750 W. It is a nice PSU; 60 A single 12-volt rail.

HothBase: I love the case. I gotta get around to rewiring mine during vacation. My Dad's power tools are handy here.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


OK fellers Im gonna need some help here. I got the DFI lanparty nf4 ultra d/g in the mail today, got it all put together with my opty 165, 2x512 hyper x, 1 of my 6800's and the rest of my sig rig. 
Plug it in, the ram and the standby LED's both light up. When I hit the power button all the fans spin up and it starts to go through the debug. The video doesnt come on, the debug gets to the CPU (3 LED's lit up) and the power button is flashing and thats where it stays. What am I doing wrong here? Do I have something hooked up wrong? 
BTW, the vid card is in the lower slot due to the northbridge heatsink. 
Any ideas?


Crucial first step with a LANParty-series motherboard: Prior to your very first boot, clear the CMOS.

Crucial 2nd step: Attempt your first boot with only one DIMM of RAM installed in the orange DIMM slot furthest away from the CPU socket.

Skipping either or both of these steps will result in a POST failure almost 100% of the time.









Another thing to watch out for: Make sure all power connectors to the motherboard (even the floppy drive header) are connected. This is a specific characteristic of these DFIs.

Hope this helps.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Crucial first step with a LANParty-series motherboard: Prior to your very first boot, clear the CMOS.

Crucial 2nd step: Attempt your first boot with only one DIMM of RAM installed in the orange DIMM slot furthest away from the CPU socket.

Skipping either or both of these steps will result in a POST failure almost 100% of the time.









Another thing to watch out for: Make sure all power connectors to the motherboard (even the floppy drive header) are connected. This is a specific characteristic of these DFIs.

Hope this helps.


















AHHHH shazza razza razzin frazzer! Ok Ill pull 1 stick and connect the floppy header. 1 question, this board has has all of those jumpers like the SLI boards, which position do they have to be in, in order to use the lower slot as the primary slot?
Thanx Joe


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Pez, sorry to hear that. Did all of the stability testing pass at 2.57Ghz? I had these same issues with Company of Heroes and my memory sub-timings.

Good luck

Well I had run orthos for 2+ hours and it did fine, so I guess that's what happened :/.

BTW Hoth, looks much much better. The before looked like something was eating your GFX card.


----------



## thlnk3r

Thanks Joe for posting that. Those two steps are very important with these boards.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
AHHHH shazza razza razzin frazzer! Ok Ill pull 1 stick and connect the floppy header. 1 question, this board has has all of those jumpers like the SLI boards, which position do they have to be in, in order to use the lower slot as the primary slot?
Thanx Joe









BlackOmega, with the board being in single vga mode the jumpers have to placed on the top pins only. Please do this for all the jumpers. See attached image for a better description.

Hoth, good clean up on the cables. What kind of material are you using for the sound dampening? Interesting









Good luck guys


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
HothBase: I love the case. I gotta get around to rewiring mine during vacation. My Dad's power tools are handy here.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
BTW Hoth, looks much much better. The before looked like something was eating your GFX card.

Thanks!
It means a lot to hear that I am doing something right.








I'm also working on adding a new fan to the front of my box, I have to make my own hole(s) though, but more of that tomorrow! My little project already kept me up too late.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Thanks Joe for posting that. Those two steps are very important with these boards.

BlackOmega, with the board being in single vga mode the jumpers have to placed on the top pins only. Please do this for all the jumpers. See attached image for a better description.

Hoth, good clean up on the cables. What kind of material are you using for the sound dampening? Interesting









Good luck guys

Ok I have them all placed on the top, but I still get no video, card will only fit into the bottom slot. I removed 1 dimm and placed the remaining DIMM in the #2 (orange) slot. The slot furthest away from the CPU is yellow. Connected the floppy cable.
When I hit the power button,3 debug LEDS remain lit, according to the manual thats CPU. IT doesnt continue on through the self check. But the power button stopped flashing.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Ok I have them all placed on the top, but I still get no video, card will only fit into the bottom slot. I removed 1 dimm and placed the remaining DIMM in the #2 (orange) slot. The slot furthest away from the CPU is yellow. Connected the floppy cable.
When I hit the power button,3 debug LEDS remain lit, according to the manual thats CPU. IT doesnt continue on through the self check. But the power button stopped flashing.

BlackOmega, it's a possibility the BIOS is corrupt. Did the seller say the board was "pulled from a working machine"? Have you tried a different power supplies? My DFI SLI-DR had problems starting up with my older Seasonic S-12 500.

Here's something you can try. Push down both the restart and shutdown buttons at the same time (buttons on the motherboard). Then release only the power button but keep the restart button pressed for at about 10-15 seconds. Release your finger and see if it POST's.

Did you already clear the cmos, take the battery out ect?

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, it's a possibility the BIOS is corrupt. Did the seller say the board was "pulled from a working machine"? Have you tried a different power supplies? My DFI SLI-DR had problems starting up with my older Seasonic S-12 500.

Here's something you can try. Push down both the restart and shutdown buttons at the same time (buttons on the motherboard). Then release only the power button but keep the restart button pressed for at about 10-15 seconds. Release your finger and see if it POST's.

Did you already clear the cmos, take the battery out ect?

Good luck










 Ok got it to post and get in to windows. All I did was reseat the ram without cutting power to the PSU (that was actually unintentional







). Since I used a 6800, it autoinstalled some driver and video is ok. I need to install the ethernet drivers. Havent checked sound or anything yet, but the rotten bastig sent me the wrong I/O shield.







I think it was intentional since it looks like its never been used.
Owell gotta go and look at a condo real quick Ill be back shortly.


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


h

TestECull: I bought a Silverstone Olympia OP 750 W. It is a nice PSU; 60 A single 12-volt rail.

.



I was considering this 650W modular Antec.

Also, pix of the damage can be found Here


----------



## BlackOmega

Ok Im back, added another stick of ram, everything seems to be ok. And who wouldve thunk that IDE cables are different from manufacturer to manufacturer. But I guess they are. The asus ones didnt work right and just gave errors. Anyway, is it ok to use the #1 &#2 DIMMs? (I guess technically thats single channel) Or would it be better to use 1 & 3? And man this cooler seems to be doing a good job for the most part, kind of a pain to install. At any rate thanks for the help guys.


----------



## TestECull

1 and 3 are preferred. Dual channel will nearly double your memory bandwidth.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

TestE, man... definitely curtains for your old PSU.









Do you happen to know the OEM of that Antec PSU you're eyeing? Do you know its UL number?

I'm a fan of PC P&C PSUs (lots of Ps there...), so perhaps you would consider this model as a more affordable yet still highly-regarded option.

BlackOmega, good to see you've got the DFI up and running.







Don't be shy about testing even such nitty gritty details as trying both sets of memory channels with your RAM. These things are really so finicky, sometimes you can find some more MHz just by trying the other RAM channel.


----------



## TestECull

Joe, honestly, I have no clue where the UL number even is, let alone what it is...What's amazing is how that explosion didn't harm anything else. I'm using a loaner Echo-STAR(Blech), which should be fine for the two or three weeks I need to use it, and so far none of my hardware is showing any remote signs of damage.

Only thing I do like about this Echo-STAR is the fan. It's friggin huge(I'd guess 150 or 160, it gives my 120's e-peen envy just on sheer size), LED and flows a decent amount of air. Might make a good blowhole fan or intake fan on my side panel...hrm...

I've also scavenged the 80 and 92mm fans from the dead Antec. They survived just fine, all I need is to put 3-pin harness on the 80(It already has all the required wires) and either a 3-pin or molex on the 92 and find somewhere to put them to work.

As far as the ultimate replacement, I just need between 600 and 700 watts, most of that on +12V, reliable and very long lasting.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
Joe, honestly, I have no clue where the UL number even is, let alone what it is...

Lemme see if I can dig that up for us, then.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Sorry for the double post, but TestE, according to this source, Antec PSUs are usually built by HEC, CWT, Delta, and Seasonic for the most part. I'll try to do some more digging to see which manufacturer actually makes the NeoPower 650W.


----------



## TestECull

Delta makes good fans and Seasonic decent PSU's...no wonder Antecs are usually well regarded...


----------



## Blitz6804

My Antec would be Seasonic. For your Antec, the UL number is underneath a backward RU on the label.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
Delta makes good fans and Seasonic decent PSU's...no wonder Antecs are usually well regarded...

TestECull, here's the full review of the NeoPower 650W: http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php...Story&reid=117.

It's built by Seasonic but based on the same platform as the Trio 650W. There are few things about this unit that aren't really pleasing but hey for the price I won't complain. Even though it's built by Seasonic I still think it comes down to the components they actually use. Check out the efficiency tests. Some were a bit low. One test produced 60C temps.

I'd either look at a Corsair HX520 (Seasonic) or the Corsair VX550 (Channel Well). Those both are excellent quality.

Good luck


----------



## TestECull

I'll check those Corsairs out as well....I need something better than this Echo-STAR. This thing's fine for an email rig, but I don't paticularly trust it to handle overclocks and gaming all that well, if ya get my drift...


----------



## GuardianOdin

Ok guys, 1 hour completed test in OCCT


----------



## rhkcommander959

nice job!

man i wish amd wouldnt have killed 939 off. the memory controller should've been able to take ddr1 or 2. then we would've had phenoms on great boards like the cfx3200


----------



## nategr8ns

Yeah I totally agree. I think the limitations were with the socket though, and they wanted to get a socket out and have it become stable by the time quad cores were out (i.e. not release quads _and_ a new socket at the same time, because there would be tons of driver issues to sort out, not just mobo issues and then processor issues.
Something like that, I don't really know what I'm saying though







.


----------



## mudd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
Yeah I totally agree. I think the limitations were with the socket though, and they wanted to get a socket out and have it become stable by the time quad cores were out (i.e. not release quads _and_ a new socket at the same time, because there would be tons of driver issues to sort out, not just mobo issues and then processor issues.
Something like that, I don't really know what I'm saying though







.

wasn't it memory limits or something like that?


----------



## MjrTom

Hello again,

I have realised that I have an issue with installing 4 modules in my DFI SLI-D motherboard. 
My current cooler is a thermalright SI-120 which is orientated parallel to the motherboard. This however has a bracket which holds the fins in place. This bracket overlaps the DIMM slot nearest the CPU socket.

Can anyone suggest an alternative which is orientated perpendicular to the motherboard? My initial idea was something along the lines of the Zalman CNPS9700-NT or the standard copper one.

Your thoughts please


----------



## mudd

i had that same problem w/ my TT and my lanparty board, but i just kinda wedged my memory in there and made it fit


----------



## MjrTom

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mudd*


i had that same problem w/ my TT and my lanparty board, but i just kinda wedged my memory in there and made it fit


Yeah that might have to be the case. otherwise I could modify the bracket (chop it off)

It going to be a tight fit, esp with the profile of the large heatspreaders on the Mushkin Redline...


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Ok guys, 1 hour completed test in OCCT


 Very Nice! (Borat accent)


----------



## BlackOmega

My video card is driving me crazy!!!!








One of my video cards make noise when under load, its been like this since I got it. But now it almost sounds like a heart monitor when folding, it has a noticable beep every second. Its not loud but its definitely audible. I know certain Nvidia GPU's have a squealing issue something to do with the capacitors being of cheap quality and what not. Ironically, it is the faster of the 2 cards though








I think it might be RMA time because this is rediculous. I can hear it from 15ft away.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mudd* 
i can't find it, so i'll just assume you're right and blame my mistake on drugs









LOL FTL


----------



## mudd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MjrTom* 
Yeah that might have to be the case. otherwise I could modify the bracket (chop it off)

It going to be a tight fit, esp with the profile of the large heatspreaders on the Mushkin Redline...

thats what i had to do w/ my BT bracket is hack 1/2 of it away, yet still leave enough room for some screws.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*
Quote:
Originally Posted by mudd
i can't find it, so i'll just assume you're right and blame my mistake on drugs
LOL FTL

?? don't understand where you're comin from here. they did make 4 gig kits, but they were ECC registered....


----------



## TestECull

How close are ya'lls ram slots?! My GenimII's mounting bracket isn't even close to the ram slots, and unless the heatspreaders are taller than normal, I have no clearance problems...


----------



## mudd

DFI lanparty's had slots like 1 inch from the cpu socket. my BT's thermal pipes come within 1/8th or so of an inch away from my ram heatsink.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

MjrTom, I quite like the original Big Typhoon (non-VX version) for our S939 chips. I used to run one on mine, and will run one again pretty soon. It's a blow-down cooler (which is what I personally prefer), but it's also tall so there's no risk of it fouling any of the RAM slots below it. It's very underrated these days, though I can't imagine why (except to suggest that it's not very efficient for overclocked quad-cores).

Just because it's old doesn't mean it's useless (a bit like our S939s, wouldn't you say?).









Another alternative with a good reputation for performance is the Enzotech Ultra-X. This is almost exactly like the SI-120 you currently have, but without any bracing arms on the other side of the heatpipes. I have never used one of these, so I can't personally vouch for its effectiveness.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


My video card is driving me crazy!!!!








One of my video cards make noise when under load, its been like this since I got it. But now it almost sounds like a heart monitor when folding, it has a noticable beep every second. Its not loud but its definitely audible. I know certain Nvidia GPU's have a squealing issue something to do with the capacitors being of cheap quality and what not. Ironically, it is the faster of the 2 cards though








I think it might be RMA time because this is rediculous. I can hear it from 15ft away.










BlackOmega, that must be annoying. I've never actually heard a video card beeping.







Are there any other anomalies besides the beeps?

Good luck, guys.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
MjrTom, I quite like the original Big Typhoon (non-VX version) for our S939 chips. I used to run one on mine, and will run one again pretty soon. It's a blow-down cooler (which is what I personally prefer), but it's also tall so there's no risk of it fouling any of the RAM slots below it. It's very underrated these days, though I can't imagine why (except to suggest that it's not very efficient for overclocked quad-cores).

Just because it's old doesn't mean it's useless (a bit like our S939s, wouldn't you say?).









Another alternative with a good reputation for performance is the Enzotech Ultra-X. This is almost exactly like the SI-120 you currently have, but without any bracing arms on the other side of the heatpipes. I have never used one of these, so I can't personally vouch for its effectiveness.

BlackOmega, that must be annoying. I've never actually heard a video card beeping.







Are there any other anomalies besides the beeps?

Good luck, guys.










I like my BT also







. But as for the GPU, it kind of squeals also, I noticed when I first got it and was running 3dmark there was no beep then. I think the beep (its not loud but defeinitely noticable) is GPUs folding cycle, I have it set to about 95% so it cycles as it were, kind of like S&M when you stress test @ 50% its not a constant load but more modulated (on/off/on/off).
So, squeals all the time when under load and beeps when folding







.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
it kind of squeals also, I noticed when I first got it and was running 3dmark there was no beep then. I think the beep (its not loud but defeinitely noticable) is GPUs folding cycle, I have it set to about 95% so it cycles as it were, kind of like S&M when you stress test @ 50% its not a constant load but more modulated (on/off/on/off).
So, squeals all the time when under load and beeps when folding







.

BlackOmega, I had this exact same issue with my X800 Pro. I also experienced this issue with my Visiontek 4850 on my Biostar TForce 6100 motherboard but not on my DFI SLI-DR board. So that is very strange. The squealing only occurred under high load. Is there a way of fixing this? I am actually not sure...

Good luck


----------



## TestECull

MjrTom: The GeminII is a good alternative to the BT if you are short on space. Mine, with a 120X25 fan on it, is the exact same height as my X1900XT's PCB, so it will fit in any case as far as that goes.

It does hang low over the mobo, tho, and might interfere with PSU on some mobo's. My Epox has the CPU on the left and aimed horizontally, so the cooler hangs over the right side of the mobo, but my old Infinity from DFI had it aimed vertically, and it ran afoul of GPU's.


----------



## pioneerisloud

This question is for those of you running 4GB of RAM (or 4 matched sticks even). But has ANYBODY figured out how to wrastle your RAM stable past about DDR450 with 4 sticks? I'm trying and trying! I know all 4 of my sticks can go to at least DDR533 STABLY. Its just a stupid sub-timing that I'm either missing, or don't know about that is holding me back. I'm stuck right now at DDR424 (testing again). My next divider up would put me to DDR540...and I'd LOVE to be able to use it. I just don't know what to tinker with to make it stable.


----------



## TestECull

You are really stressing your IMC, maybe an upped Vcore will aid things along? I can't remember if the IMC's voltage is the same as the core's, if there's a seperate voltage settable in Bios, or if it's linked to DIMM volts...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
You are really stressing your IMC, maybe an upped Vcore will aid things along? I can't remember if the IMC's voltage is the same as the core's, if there's a seperate voltage settable in Bios, or if it's linked to DIMM volts...

I have no idea. I've tried upping my vCore to 1.44v, and that's a no go (currently at 1.34v). Tried upping my HT Link Voltage to "On". I'm not about to touch my vDIMM though. It's already at 2.90v just for stability at DDR454 (where I'm at now). It's weird. 2.75vDIMM, I was fine at DDR450 even. But I need 2.90v to pull off DDR454. Everything else being the same other than my HTT went from 344 to 347 (FSB).

I'd have to agree that it has to be something to do with my IMC. I just don't know exactly which setting will help relieve some of the stress. Voltage will only get me so far. I have a feeling that voltage isn't going to stabilize me at DDR500+. It's got to be some sort of sub-timing option that either my board is missing, or I just don't know to adjust it.


----------



## TestECull

My mobo has this "FSB Strap to PLL" or something similar option, and it's a Voltage. I leave it alone, as I have no clue just what the hell it is...perhaps that's IMC voltage? If 1.44vCore didn't help, IMC volts aren't linked to the core.

As far as subtimings go...I have no clue how to adjust the main timings, other than smaller number = tighter and 1T > 2T, so I'm no use there.


----------



## Blitz6804

You are running Asus unfortunately and not DFI. Poser used Async, DRAM driving strength, and about 3 other settings. (I cannot find his post now because search seems to be down.)


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Guardian, in terms of memory what do you have everything set at? Maybe we can help.


sorry Think, I didn't see this your post. I am currently. re-OC'ing the RAM from the ground up. My Opty is now stable again at 3Ghz (thankfully) RAM is at stock timings and I'm tweaking each setting and testing each setting separately. I'll post back with some results as soon as it is stable for 20 minutes. Once I'm comfortable with 20 minutes, I'll run the hour test and when I go to bed I'll run the 8 hour test in OCCT.


----------



## Blitz6804

Oh, good find on the OCCTv3.0. You want to link the club so we can use it too?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Oh, good find on the OCCTv3.0. You want to link the club so we can use it too?


 That'd be nice, I was reading on it some the other day and supposedly it'll tell you what the failure codes are.







Bout time another stress test tells you what failed.

Pio, were you able to get 1T out of your RAM? As far as I knew when you have 4DIMMs occupied it has to be in 2T. At least I was never able to get mine to run at 1T even @ 3-3-3-8.


----------



## GuardianOdin

OCCT 3.00 Beta 14

*EDIT:*a much much longer Prime run. Before I could not complete 4 minutes, so this is much better.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
That'd be nice, I was reading on it some the other day and supposedly it'll tell you what the failure codes are.







Bout time another stress test tells you what failed.

Pio, were you able to get 1T out of your RAM? As far as I knew when you have 4DIMMs occupied it has to be in 2T. At least I was never able to get mine to run at 1T even @ 3-3-3-8.

Nope, 1T is not attainable for me unless I run my RAM REALLY slow. And at that point, its useless.


----------



## majakone

If you had more options in your bios you might get there , such as some of our DFI boards have


----------



## BlackOmega

HAHA! speaking of DFI boards I think I need some help with mine. The manual is less than informative. I was trying to see what its limit is but I cant even get it to 230 without BSOD's. I set the ram to 100, ht multiplier to 3x, and CPU to 5x. Theres like 3 VID core settings, theres the startup one, somethng else and special. So far its defaulting to 1.31v which is a little low for this CPU as it has spent most of its life @ 1.39v. I have RAM slots 1&2 occupied. Should I move #2 to the #3 spot? Any suggestions?


----------



## GuardianOdin

*S&M Stable now*


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Beautiful job, G.O.!







Makes me hungry to do some OCing again.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
HAHA! speaking of DFI boards I think I need some help with mine. The manual is less than informative. I was trying to see what its limit is but I cant even get it to 230 without BSOD's. I set the ram to 100, ht multiplier to 3x, and CPU to 5x. Theres like 3 VID core settings, theres the startup one, somethng else and special. So far its defaulting to 1.31v which is a little low for this CPU as it has spent most of its life @ 1.39v. I have RAM slots 1&2 occupied. Should I move #2 to the #3 spot? Any suggestions?

BlackOmega, first of all make sure your RAM is in the same colored spots (I forgot how the DIMM slots are numbered). In other words, make sure your RAM DIMMs are both in either the orange (usually is better) or the yellow DIMM slots.

Now, to adjust VCore, you need to go to *CPU VID Control* and manually select the setting you need (you mentioned 1.39V). Here is how DFI has the VCore adjustments set up: *CPU VID Startup Value* specifies the VCore value at startup, and nothing more. This adjustment is useful in that it avoids the warm reboot bug that some motherboards (Asus' A8N32-SLI Deluxe has this flaw, for one) have. Any setting around 1.25V or higher is fine, for the most part (I always just keep this at 1.3V myself). *CPU VID Control* is your primary VCore setting. Assuming you have the third setting (*CPU VID Special Control* on "Disabled" or "None" or "Auto" -- I forget what the BIOS actually has, but if I remember correctly, "Auto" is a 0% value -- your VCore will be whatever you set on *CPU VID Control*. Enabling the third VCore-related setting, *CPU VID Special Control*, adds a specified percentage of voltage to what your *CPU VID Control* value is. The second and third VCore-related options in concert allow you to really fine-tune the CPU voltage input.

Hope this helps!


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Ok got it to post and get in to windows. All I did was reseat the ram without cutting power to the PSU (that was actually unintentional







).










:swearing::swearing::swearing:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Ok guys, 1 hour completed test in OCCT


























Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I know certain Nvidia GPU's have a squealing issue something to do with the capacitors being of cheap quality and what not. 
I think it might be RMA time because this is ridiculous.


RMARMARMA
















Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Just because it's old doesn't mean it's useless Outdated(a bit like our S939s, wouldn't you say?).












Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Is there a way of fixing this? I am actually not sure...


This is common and is a suitable reason for RMA. Replaceing the caps will also fix the issue and if you get the OK from the manufacturer it won't void your warrenty (you have to have the skillset and prove it to them)









Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I'd have to agree that it has to be something to do with my IMC.


Don't know where the mem controller is, too lazy to look. Is is actively cooled?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


That'd be nice, I was reading on it some the other day and supposedly it'll tell you what the *failure codes are*.






































:appl aud:
PM or pop in MegaOptions thread to get the file hosted here!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


*S&M Stable now*


----------



## TestECull

I should run S&M on mine, even tho I already call it stable...where's the download url?

Hueristic: The memory controller is built into the die. If he's running an active CPU cooler, it's actively cooled. I thought you knew 939 memory controllers were on-die...


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
I should run S&M on mine, even tho I already call it stable...where's the download url?


Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
*Links to Recommended Stress Testing Programs and Overclocking Tools*

S&M v.1.9.1 (scroll down the page until you find the link to the download)*

Orthos Stress Prime (optimized for dual-core CPUs)

Orthos Stress Prime (optimized for single-core CPUs)
http://www.ocbase.com/perestroika_en/index.php?Download
OCCT v.2.0
MemTest86+ (for testing RAM settings outside the OS)
3DMark06 (For testing the system's stability with 3D applications/games)
Gogar's Athlon64 OC Optimizer (One of the single best tools in optimizing a total SYSTEM overclock)
rthdribl (Real-Time High Dynamic Range Image-Based Lighting) (For testing the system's stability with 3D applications/games)*
*"S&M and rthdribl are presented "As is" with no warranty expressed or implied by txtmstrjoe, OCN, or any other party in this thread. If you run either program and it breaks a component in your computer, or makes you realize your Overclock is not stable, none of the aforementioned parties will be liable for your loss except yourself."


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


Hueristic: The memory controller is built into the die. If he's running an active CPU cooler, it's actively cooled. I thought you knew 939 memory controllers were on-die...


I've never researched 939's but now that you mention it. :doh That was one of the perks of the AMd's over the Intels. The MC architecture. IIRC now the I7's are useing the same methods.

My mind is not always in the On position.









If you go back in this thread awhile you'll see a post where I mentioned the 939 is the first type I've owned that I haven't researched! funny thing is it's now my favorite socket! Previous was the Socket 8.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I was trying to see what its limit is but I cant even get it to 230 without BSOD's. I set the ram to 100, ht multiplier to 3x, and CPU to 5x. Theres like 3 VID core settings, theres the startup one, somethng else and special. So far its defaulting to 1.31v which is a little low for this CPU as it has spent most of its life @ 1.39v. I have RAM slots 1&2 occupied. Should I move #2 to the #3 spot? Any suggestions?


BlackOmega, what processor is this that your trying to overclock? At 230HTT you shouldn't have to adjust the chipset voltage but if you do look for "Chipset Voltage Control". It should be in the same menu that Joe talked about in the above post. If you leave it at it's _default _state I believe it's set to 1.50V.

Good luck


----------



## Sturmangriff

Hi everyone, I am new to OCN and ya'll have inspired me to start getting the most out of my 4200+ Toledo. I started my new oc adventure today and have reached 2.64ghz so far http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=466037 . I am not sure if my settings are correct but it seems to be working ok so far. Can I join the Socket 939 Appreciation Club


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sturmangriff*


Hi everyone, I am new to OCN and ya'll have inspired me to start getting the most out of my 4200+ Toledo. I started my new oc adventure today and have reached 2.64ghz so far http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=466037 . I am not sure if my settings are correct but it seems to be working ok so far. Can I join the Socket 939 Appreciation Club











Yer in!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


I've never researched 939's but now that you mention it.







That was one of the perks of the AMd's over the Intels. The MC architecture. IIRC now the I7's are useing the same methods.

My mind is not always in the On position.









If you go back in this thread awhile you'll see a post where I mentioned the 939 is the first type I've owned that I haven't researched! funny thing is it's now my favorite socket! Previous was the Socket 8.



lulz.
And yes, i7 is using an IMC, and Intel has a bug or two to work out of it before it's worth using really.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sturmangriff* 
Hi everyone, I am new to OCN and ya'll have inspired me to start getting the most out of my 4200+ Toledo. I started my new oc adventure today and have reached 2.64ghz so far http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=466037 . I am not sure if my settings are correct but it seems to be working ok so far. Can I join the Socket 939 Appreciation Club









Welcome to the club Sturmangriff









I've added you to the roster.

If you have any questions feel free to ask away!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Beautiful job, G.O.!







Makes me hungry to do some OCing again.









BlackOmega, first of all make sure your RAM is in the same colored spots (I forgot how the DIMM slots are numbered). In other words, make sure your RAM DIMMs are both in either the orange (usually is better) or the yellow DIMM slots.

Now, to adjust VCore, you need to go to *CPU VID Control* and manually select the setting you need (you mentioned 1.39V). Here is how DFI has the VCore adjustments set up: *CPU VID Startup Value* specifies the VCore value at startup, and nothing more. This adjustment is useful in that it avoids the warm reboot bug that some motherboards (Asus' A8N32-SLI Deluxe has this flaw, for one) have. Any setting around 1.25V or higher is fine, for the most part (I always just keep this at 1.3V myself). *CPU VID Control* is your primary VCore setting. Assuming you have the third setting (*CPU VID Special Control* on "Disabled" or "None" or "Auto" -- I forget what the BIOS actually has, but if I remember correctly, "Auto" is a 0% value -- your VCore will be whatever you set on *CPU VID Control*. Enabling the third VCore-related setting, *CPU VID Special Control*, adds a specified percentage of voltage to what your *CPU VID Control* value is. The second and third VCore-related options in concert allow you to really fine-tune the CPU voltage input.

Hope this helps!

















Yes, yes it does.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, what processor is this that your trying to overclock? At 230HTT you shouldn't have to adjust the chipset voltage but if you do look for "Chipset Voltage Control". It should be in the same menu that Joe talked about in the above post. If you leave it at it's _default _state I believe it's set to 1.50V.

Good luck











 Im actually trying to use my opty 165. It was stable till about 2350 mhz on my asus board with 4 DIMM slot occupied. I was hoping with the DFI board I could get more out of it. Ill check to see what the chipset is set at.

Thanxks guys youve both been a great help as always.







But now Im going to go get some sleep, its been a long day. But on a good note Ima certified nurse assistant







I can wipe butts professionally now


----------



## GuardianOdin

Welcome Sturmangriff!

Ok guys, I finished up another run of S&M at 3024Mhz and here is a s/s of it. I will continue to work on the RAM, but for now I am seeking stability before speed.


----------



## TestECull

lol. Nice.

I ran S&M, my cache passed with ease, but Integer elicited a "Clock blablabla not recieved by secondary proc" bluescreen. I'm just too damn lazy to play with it, as that's the only program that does that.


----------



## thlnk3r

Guardian, looking good man









S&M is quite an accomplishment. My system actually has troubles with S&M. I can be OCCT and Orthso stable for 24hrs but S&M hardly lasts an hour on my rig. This was with my tighter memory timings though so perhaps I may have better luck a second time around.


----------



## Blitz6804

S&M runs about 100 minutes of CPU tests. Then it runs 4 memory tests which take about 15 minutes per DIMM per test. (So 2 DIMMs would be about an hour.) This is if you have it set to "long" and strong.

Sturmangriff, I am adding you to the off-site roster now. GuardianOdin, do you have a CPU-Z link of that clock too? I can use the S&M for both your speed and S&M link but I would like to have a CPU-Z link for the roster separate if possible.


----------



## GuardianOdin

A total S&M run "long" will take you about 3 hours 20 minutes. This with the HDD tests turned off


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


A total S&M run "long" will take you about 3 hours 20 minutes. This with the HDD tests turned off


Unless you have 4GB of RAM







. Trust me. It took me over 7 hours (I believe) to run all long tests (no hard drive tests).


----------



## GuardianOdin

very true.

I noticed my temps never reached 60c. I had to tie up the Big Typhoon since I noticed the temps running a difference of 10c and sometimes more. I really wish 939 had better mounting instead of two bolts. I made a design a while back that used a 4 bolt mounting bracket. Hmmm... need to find that


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


very true.

I noticed my temps never reached 60c. I had to tie up the Big Typhoon since I noticed the temps running a difference of 10c and sometimes more. I really wish 939 had better mounting instead of two bolts. I made a design a while back that used a 4 bolt mounting bracket. Hmmm... need to find that


 What mods did you do to your BT?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


What mods did you do to your BT?


It's been lapped and the vents on top have been sealed on the edges to force more air threw them. My Opty 165 is naked as well









I may head to my friends house when I have a day off work and cut a bracket to replace the current BT bracket. I'd like to have a 4 bolt mounting system. Currently there is simply to much walk when standing on the side.


----------



## Sturmangriff

Awesome, thanks for adding me to the club







. I have been tinkering with my cpu voltage tonite...currently down to 1.4v and was wondering what temps should I be shooting for and what temps are too high? I have a Zalman CNPS7700 cooler http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835118115 and have seen temps at idle or light use around 36-40c and has been as high as 60c while playing an online mmo.


----------



## Evil Eddie

problem here, finally got my mobo stable at 2.66 prime ran for an hour, memtest finished, but.... DOOM3 kept shutting off, wizard101 even shut off at start up. WTH? sense my ram was only at 1gig and set low could that cause that?

i was all woohoo, everythings loading fine, things installing fast and blah blah blah, but microsoft framework 3.0 crashed everytime windows start up and the games would shut off at start up. i reset my machine back so i could play my games.

if ram is the deal then ram is what im gana get REAL soon.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Evil Eddie*


problem here, finally got my mobo stable at 2.66 prime ran for an hour, memtest finished, but.... DOOM3 kept shutting off, wizard101 even shut off at start up. WTH? sense my ram was only at 1gig and set low could that cause that?

i was all woohoo, everythings loading fine, things installing fast and blah blah blah, but microsoft framework 3.0 crashed everytime windows start up and the games would shut off at start up. i reset my machine back so i could play my games.

if ram is the deal then ram is what im gana get REAL soon.


 What you need to run is S&M (it should be on the first page of this thread). I have read about lots of people being Orthos, Prime95 and OCCT stable yet things crash on them all the time. None of those programs isolate any sort of problems really. They just give you a generalization that there might be a problem. Thats the exact reason why I stopped using them. My higher OC's fail almost immediately using those tests. But theyre totally stable, no crashes or freezing and they pass S&M.
If they dont pass S&M I dial them back a little until they do. S&M tells you exactly where they fail, wether it be L1 or L2 cache, SSE, MMX, etc. Then you know that need to add more voltage or get the CPU to run at cooler temps, etc.
Be aware that S&M is the *MOST* greuling test out there. It stresses components harder than Orthos, Prime or OCCT. So make sure to keep an eye on the core temps especially during the L1 and FPU tests. Those WILL get your CPU the hottest. Make sure to halt the test if it gets too hot.

Good Luck


----------



## Blitz6804

GuardianOdin: Some motherboards already have the holes to use an AM2 mounting bracket on them because of shared PCBs. My Abit AT8-32x was one of them. I do not suppose you are so fortunate with your DFI?

Sturmangriff: 60Âº C under load is absolutely fine for all K8s at stock voltage. For a 4200+ Manchester or Toledo, you should keep it under 71Âº C for 1.350 V. So at 1.400 V, anything under 68Âº C is very reasonable. The CNPS7700, while a good cooler for its day, does sometimes show its age. The easiest thing to do might be mount a fan on the side door if there is not one already. If it is like most Zalman coolers I have seen, a lap will not help temperatures much.

Evil Eddie: While I personally dislike 1 GB of RAM, you should not replace it if you do not need to. What RAM timings are you using? What is your CPU voltage? I find that if the CPU voltage is too low, many stress testers may pass, but as soon as you run a 3D application, they either mysteriously fail or the computer blue screens. I increased my voltage from 1.335 V to 1.360 V, and both problems went away. S&M may surely fail at your present setting, but I would consider a little pinch of VCore and seeing if Doom3 runs before opening up S&M.


----------



## TestECull

My second 939 rig is alive!

There won't be any CPU overclocking on this one. I bought an HP OEM mobo for it. I did that on purpose, my 12 year old cousin is getting this thing.

When it arrives, he'll have an 8600GT to play with and learn to overclock on, and PCI-e video cards are MUCH easier to replace than S939 CPU's, amirite?
















Specs:

My old 3800+ Venice, 2.4ghz, 1.4V
2GB mixed DDR, at DDR333
Random $5 DVD reader
my old 40GB IDE HDD, for now
Asus A8N-LE mATX mobo w/ nVidia 6150LE integrated(Which it's using ATM)
Echo-STAR 680W PSU. I think it will be fine for him, he'll never draw over half of it's rated power, and he's not overclocking.
Opteron stock cooler and Delidded processor.
Vista 64!!


----------



## BlackOmega

Thats not bad......
Sure it might be easier replacing the GPU, but hell I can replace my CPU, espeically on the DFI board in a matter of 2-3 minutes.
And cant you still OC through windows? Ive never tried it but Ive heard that its possible with a ClockGen.


----------



## Blitz6804

I think TestECull meant it is easier to find a PCI-E replacement then a 939 replacement.


----------



## TestECull

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I think TestECull meant it is easier to find a PCI-E replacement then a 939 replacement.


ding ding ding ding ding.

Also, cheaper. :\\

Also, my cousin barely knows overclocking exsists, let alone how to do it without slaughtering the chip. that's the entire reason I bought this OEM board over a LanParty UT Ultra. My Venice is already slightly damaged from my OC'ing, and I have a rough idea of what to do in there...

I would like to do something about this southbridge. It's got no cooler, doesn't look like it's susposed to have one, and it gets hot enough to burn me if I touch it. My ambients are alot better than my cousin's, too, so that ain't helping...How would ya'll reccomend I go about attaching a heatsink to it? I don't have any thermal glue or thermal pads, just zip ties and thermal paste...


----------



## Sturmangriff

Cool, thanks for the info Blitz. Now I can enjoy my newly found processor speed for some holiday gaming


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
ding ding ding ding ding.

Also, cheaper. :

Also, my cousin barely knows overclocking exsists, let alone how to do it without slaughtering the chip. that's the entire reason I bought this OEM board over a LanParty UT Ultra. My Venice is already slightly damaged from my OC'ing, and I have a rough idea of what to do in there...

I dunno I found a 3500+ retail new for 29.99


----------



## Blitz6804

True, but compared to AM2/775, that is pretty pricey. AM2 CPUs are as cheap as $20 for a single-core, $40 for a dual. 775 is $40 and $50 respectively.


----------



## TestECull

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I dunno I found a 3500+ retail new for 29.99










And I managed to score an epic deal on my 4200+ Manny. 20 bucks. They're out there, but they're difficult to find at sensible prices. :O Guess our ancient chips are still worth something!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
And I managed to score an epic deal on my 4200+ Manny. 20 bucks. They're out there, but they're difficult to find at sensible prices. :O Guess our ancient chips are still worth something!

That they are, FX60's STILL go in the $300+ range







, Last I checked you can get brand new opty 180's from tigerdirect for $180ish


----------



## HothBase

939 CPUs going for more than AMD's top of the line Phenom X4s


----------



## Blitz6804

Dude, my San Diego new was in excess of $300 if I remember right. That is when 939 was just starting to replace 754, but still.


----------



## TestECull

Ok, lol. Serious question.

How do I attach a heatsink to something that needs one, but provides no mounts for it, and I have no way to ziptie it on and no thermal glue?


----------



## Blitz6804

No thermal adhesive? How about thermal tape? That is removable relatively easily. (Whereas the thermal adhesive requires a long process to remove.)

If not, can you put double-sided tape on the area around where it must be mounted?


----------



## tofunater

In a week or so I can officially join the club. I purchased an asus s939 board from a member and I'm going to put my virgin, never oc'd opty 165 in it. All I need is a power supply to get her going and then we shall see how she does.


----------



## BlackOmega

Hmmm.. well this is quite odd. On this DFi board I cant get the RAM to run faster than 190ish without it freezing or getting some sort of HDD failure. Also, just like on my ASUS board I cant set the Vcore manually. I have to use the VID x 1XX%, right now Im sitting @ 1.36v and 2340mhz stable. I just started testing so lets see how high she really gets







265x9 was the best I got out of the A8N32.


----------



## Evil Eddie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
What you need to run is S&M (it should be on the first page of this thread). I have read about lots of people being Orthos, Prime95 and OCCT stable yet things crash on them all the time. None of those programs isolate any sort of problems really. They just give you a generalization that there might be a problem. Thats the exact reason why I stopped using them. My higher OC's fail almost immediately using those tests. But theyre totally stable, no crashes or freezing and they pass S&M.
If they dont pass S&M I dial them back a little until they do. S&M tells you exactly where they fail, wether it be L1 or L2 cache, SSE, MMX, etc. Then you know that need to add more voltage or get the CPU to run at cooler temps, etc.
Be aware that S&M is the *MOST* greuling test out there. It stresses components harder than Orthos, Prime or OCCT. So make sure to keep an eye on the core temps especially during the L1 and FPU tests. Those WILL get your CPU the hottest. Make sure to halt the test if it gets too hot.

Good Luck









s&m ran ok for 30 minutes, a few errors at first, then i upped the volts and then it went good. i downloaded videocardstabilitytest and started it for about 30 minutes, but i decided to stop it till i get a better cooling on the video card, it was getting hot to touch. it installed a screensaver and when i tried that out, it BSODed.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Evil Eddie: While I personally dislike 1 GB of RAM, you should not replace it if you do not need to. What RAM timings are you using? What is your CPU voltage? I find that if the CPU voltage is too low, many stress testers may pass, but as soon as you run a 3D application, they either mysteriously fail or the computer blue screens. I increased my voltage from 1.335 V to 1.360 V, and both problems went away. S&M may surely fail at your present setting, but I would consider a little pinch of VCore and seeing if Doom3 runs before opening up S&M.

my ram had 2 dif. sets on them so i had it at the lowest which was like 112 or somthing. cpu volts were at 1.4 i was thinking that the problem im having is my missmatch of ram(both 512 sticks, but dif. speeds) and the video card is having an issue. i'll try and up the volts and start out doom.


----------



## Blitz6804

tofunater: I look forward to your CPU-Z!

BlackOmega: DFI boards have a dizzying amount of memory tweaks that must be done. I am sure there are others here who can point you in the right direction.

Evil Eddie: If you run both DIMMs at the weaker RAM's setting, you should not have a problem. For example, if you have DDR 400 3-3-3-8 and DDR 333 2-3-3-5, you should run DDR 333 3-3-3-8. Does running the case with the door off help the graphics cooling any? How about mounting a spare fan?


----------



## BlackOmega

Well heres the results @ 1.36v 2475mhz, I dont really want to mess with the vcore until I can figure out how I can manually set it to where I want to be. Cuz the next step is 1.44v and I dont want to take it that high yet.


----------



## Evil Eddie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Evil Eddie: If you run both DIMMs at the weaker RAM's setting, you should not have a problem. For example, if you have DDR 400 3-3-3-8 and DDR 333 2-3-3-5, you should run DDR 333 3-3-3-8. Does running the case with the door off help the graphics cooling any? How about mounting a spare fan?


ok, i dont wana sound dumb but how do you know if your ram is 3-3-3-8? i know if its 400 or 333 which the numbers on mine are 133 166 200 266 scratch that, i have seen the light... or at least seen the numbers in coretemp.

door off dont help, i modded fans on my case door, and i have a fan now that blows directly on the video card. my case and my cpu-z of stableness, cept for doom crash.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Evil Eddie* 
ok, i dont wana sound dumb but how do you know if your ram is 3-3-3-8?

Evil Eddie, there are a couple of ways. One way would be to look up the model/brand of your memory to see what it's factory sub-timings are. You can also use applications such as Everest to view the "factory" defaults. If your DRAM Configuration offers "SPD" in the BIOS then that could be another way. CPU-Z of course will display your sub-timings but it doesn't show the factory defaults like Everest does.

Hope that helps


----------



## mudd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tofunater* 
In a week or so I can officially join the club. I purchased an asus s939 board from a member and I'm going to put my virgin, never oc'd opty 165 in it. All I need is a power supply to get her going and then we shall see how she does.









what stepping is your opty?


----------



## BlackOmega

Have I reached the DFI's limit?!?! I got the board to 276 mhz, fully stable. But for some reason it doesnt want to go any higher, it doesnt appear to be a CPU thing because I tried all the multiplers from 6-9, once I try to boot in 278 itll POST and all that, then it gets into some sort of pre-windows self check thing and it doesnt find something about the DMI pool and reboots.
Do I need to up the LDT voltage or the chipset voltage? And on smart guardian is the PWM IC- pulse width management integrated circuit? And are those basically the caps?

Thinker, Mudd you guys got any suggesttions?


----------



## pioneerisloud

I've personally never ran a DFI motherboard before that I could handle. We ran a DFI NF3 board a while back, but I couldn't even tweak with that board for stability.

However, it sounds to me like you need to up your chipset voltage slightly to continue past 278.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Off Topic:
But good news for pio and Froggy! We're going to get married. Anybody from this club is welcome to come (especially close friends), but you'd have to be able to make it up here to Washington. June 13th is the day







. Happy overclocking everyone!


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Off Topic:
But good news for pio and Froggy! We're going to get married. Anybody from this club is welcome to come (especially close friends), but you'd have to be able to make it up here to Washington. June 13th is the day







. Happy overclocking everyone!








































































:swearing:


----------



## majakone

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Have I reached the DFI's limit?!?! I got the board to 276 mhz, fully stable. But for some reason it doesnt want to go any higher, it doesnt appear to be a CPU thing because I tried all the multiplers from 6-9, once I try to boot in 278 itll POST and all that, then it gets into some sort of pre-windows self check thing and it doesnt find something about the DMI pool and reboots.
Do I need to up the LDT voltage or the chipset voltage? And on smart guardian is the PWM IC- pulse width management integrated circuit? And are those basically the caps?

Thinker, Mudd you guys got any suggesttions?

bumping the chipset voltage would be my guess , you should be able to get alot higher than that


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Have I reached the DFI's limit?!?! I got the board to 276 mhz, fully stable. But for some reason it doesnt want to go any higher, it doesnt appear to be a CPU thing because I tried all the multiplers from 6-9, once I try to boot in 278 itll POST and all that, then it gets into some sort of pre-windows self check thing and it doesnt find something about the DMI pool and reboots.
Do I need to up the LDT voltage or the chipset voltage? And on smart guardian is the PWM IC- pulse width management integrated circuit? And are those basically the caps?

Thinker, Mudd you guys got any suggesttions?

This thought is from out of left field, but what PSU are you running with your DFI? Sorry if you've mentioned this before, but I've forgotten.









pio and froggy, *CONGRATULATIONS*!!!!














I'm so happy for the both of you!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Have I reached the DFI's limit?!?! I got the board to 276 mhz, fully stable. But for some reason it doesnt want to go any higher, it doesnt appear to be a CPU thing because I tried all the multiplers from 6-9, once I try to boot in 278 itll POST and all that, then it gets into some sort of pre-windows self check thing and it doesnt find something about the DMI pool and reboots.
Do I need to up the LDT voltage or the chipset voltage? And on smart guardian is the PWM IC- pulse width management integrated circuit? And are those basically the caps?


BlackOmega, as others have said try adjusting your chipset voltage from 1.5volts to 1.6volts. Is this a Ultra D or a SLI-DR board? Sorry I can't recall what you purchased. Factory chipset voltage is 1.5volts for my SLI-DR. Yes PWM is the pulse width modulation. Those are located on the left of the Socket. They are under alum heatsinks. More info on PWM: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulse-width_modulation. I believe they are mosfets and not caps. (If I am wrong someone please correct me)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Off Topic:
But good news for pio and Froggy! We're going to get married. Anybody from this club is welcome to come (especially close friends), but you'd have to be able to make it up here to Washington. June 13th is the day







. Happy overclocking everyone!


WOW Pioneer caught me by surprise. Congrats









Take the Disney cruise in Florida for your honeymoon. I know it sounds like a child's vacation but it was so worth my money. I ate a lot of food and played many hours of ping pong. Needless to say my wife kicked my butt every time









Good luck guys


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I've personally never ran a DFI motherboard before that I could handle. We ran a DFI NF3 board a while back, but I couldn't even tweak with that board for stability.

However, it sounds to me like you need to up your chipset voltage slightly to continue past 278.


 Tried it, no change.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Off Topic:
But good news for pio and Froggy! We're going to get married. Anybody from this club is welcome to come (especially close friends), but you'd have to be able to make it up here to Washington. June 13th is the day







. Happy overclocking everyone!



CONGRATS!!!!!

































































Quote:



Originally Posted by *majakone*


bumping the chipset voltage would be my guess , you should be able to get alot higher than that










 Im thinking I can because its totally stable @ 276 not even a hint of instability. But 277 no boot, POSTs, gets to teh self check screen, it cant verify DMI pool or some crap and then it restarts.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


This thought is from out of left field, but what PSU are you running with your DFI? Sorry if you've mentioned this before, but I've forgotten.









pio and froggy, *CONGRATULATIONS*!!!!














I'm so happy for the both of you!










 Ok the basic getup, until I get my Centurion case, is my sig rig. So Im using the PCPnC PSU, the Asus case and the WD HDD. As for the DFI board, Im using my kingston RAM, the XP-120 cooler and my opty 165. I mean its already doing better than my Asus board did with this CPU. I know its something to do with the board because it wont go any higher even @ 6x, my Asus board with the exact same RAM and CPU got to 336 @ 6x.

But Im starting to wonder if its something to do with the BIOS, because there things that just dont work right, I have it set so it turns the numlock on @ startup - it doesnt, any voltages that I change manually dont take except for the CPU VID Special which is the CPU VID x 104%. But it only multiplies the default CPU VID (1.31v) not the value I set.

Also theres a setting in the RAM option- bank interleaving. What does that do? And is it better to enable or disable it?

Thanx guys!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Also theres a setting in the RAM option- bank interleaving. What does that do? And is it better to enable or disable it?


BlackOmega, here is a good read about "bank interleaving": http://www.realworldtech.com/page.cf...WT110401204523.

See my suggestion above, I think you might of missed it.

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Heres the cpuz validation for it - http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=467675


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, as others have said try adjusting your chipset voltage from 1.5volts to 1.6volts. Is this a Ultra D or a SLI-DR board? Sorry I can't recall what you purchased. Factory chipset voltage is 1.5volts for my SLI-DR.


 I got the Ultra D/G, so its got the 2 pcie slots just cant enable sli. Im thinking about doing that SLI mod  on it







It says that Ill need some sort of SLI selector card, but Ive got the jumpers just like the SLI board, hell SLI is even printed on the board.

I tried upping the voltage but nothing seems to change.


----------



## Blitz6804

BlackOmega: Moving on up I see. I will update the speed tomorrow. Might I suggest loosening the RAM sub-timings a fuzz? Do you know what your tRC is set to? What about your tRFC? In my experience, higher HTTs require looser than normal tRC/tRFC.

Froggy1986 & Pioneerisloud: You ARE paying my airfare amiright? In any event, congradulations; I will be expecting pictures and videos in my inbox the next day.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


BlackOmega: Moving on up I see. I will update the speed tomorrow. Might I suggest loosening the RAM sub-timings a fuzz? Do you know what your tRC is set to? What about your tRFC? In my experience, higher HTTs require looser than normal tRC/tRFC.

Froggy1986 & Pioneerisloud: You ARE paying my airfare amiright? In any event, congradulations; I will be expecting pictures and videos in my inbox the next day.


 Actually I have it all set to auto so I dont even know. But according to cpuz the timings are 2-3-2-6-2T. Just add this one if you could, my Asus with the opty 180 is my main rig


----------



## mudd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Have I reached the DFI's limit?!?! I got the board to 276 mhz, fully stable. But for some reason it doesnt want to go any higher, it doesnt appear to be a CPU thing because I tried all the multiplers from 6-9, once I try to boot in 278 itll POST and all that, then it gets into some sort of pre-windows self check thing and it doesnt find something about the DMI pool and reboots.
Do I need to up the LDT voltage or the chipset voltage? And on smart guardian is the PWM IC- pulse width management integrated circuit? And are those basically the caps?

Thinker, Mudd you guys got any suggesttions?


lower your HT multi to 2x and go from there. when you want to figure out your MAX settings you're going to have to also loosen your ram timings worse than a.

also DFI lan party boards advanced memory timings are way too tight. i'd google some of them for you right now i but i can't see straight as it is....... i think my max bootable HTT was somewhere in the 370's until i hit a cap


----------



## eviloverclocker

I am sorry about the 2.8ghz thread I posted a few days ago. I am only able to run my sig at 2.7 ghz. I was running stable at 2.8 for 2 days, but have a hardware failure now. I have a bad pci slot and think my board is about dead. I have went from SLI to one vid card and put my sound card in the last pci slot. Everytime I put my sound card in the slot between my vid cards, my rig crashes. If it does run, it fails on prime 95, orthos and a couple other progs. Its running stable at 2.7. I thought it was my sound card that was the prob, but it works in all the other pci slots. Any Ideas about the pci slot?


----------



## mudd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eviloverclocker*


I am sorry about the 2.8ghz thread I posted a few days ago. I am only able to run my sig at 2.7 ghz. I was running stable at 2.8 for 2 days, but have a hardware failure now. I have a bad pci slot and think my board is about dead. I have went to SLI to one vid card and put my sound card in the last pci slot. Everytime I put my sound card in the slot between my vid cards, my rig crashes. If it does run, it fails on prime 95, orthos and a couple other progs. Its running stable at 2.7. I thought it was my sound card that was the prob, but it works in all the other pci slots. Any Ideas about the pci slot?


were you running stable w/ tests at 2.8 GHz or were you just running @ 2.8 GHz w/o running any tests?


----------



## eviloverclocker

I ran orthos at 2.8 for 5 mins, I found a hardware prob. I tested all my hardware and found my sound card was bad. I removed it and it ran orthos for 12 hours without a hiccup. I tried to re-install my sound card, it blue screened. I removed it and found it was the pci slot. I took out one vid card and put in my sound card on the bottom slot. It works fine. So far I am running at 2.7 stable for 2 days without any probs. I ran prime and orthos with no prob. My temps are stable, around 32c idle and 54c at load. I also had to fix my vista install once during the crash due to the pci slot crash. Why does one pci slot go bad when they all run on the same bridge???


----------



## mudd

up your chipset voltage by a hair. see if that does anything.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Have I reached the DFI's limit?!?! I got the board to 276 mhz, fully stable. But for some reason it doesnt want to go any higher, it doesnt appear to be a CPU thing because I tried all the multiplers from 6-9, once I try to boot in 278 itll POST and all that, then it gets into some sort of pre-windows self check thing and it doesnt find something about the DMI pool and reboots.
Do I need to up the LDT voltage or the chipset voltage? And on smart guardian is the PWM IC- pulse width management integrated circuit? And are those basically the caps?

Thinker, Mudd you guys got any suggesttions?


That is no where near it's limit. My DFI Expert will hit 388. Now mileage may very with your Mobo.

1. Lower your RAM settings. Anything as low or lower than 140 should do.
2. Make sure your HT Multiplier is set to 2 for now.
3. After 2.8Ghz you may need to start increasing your Vcore little by little. Do not be surprised if your over 1.5Volts

Your RAM/ChipSet should be fine where they are right now. You try upping them a bit at a time if needed. DFI default voltage for the chip set should be fine, but again not every Mobo is the same.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
That is no where near it's limit. My DFI Expert will hit 388. Now mileage may very with your Mobo.

1. Lower your RAM settings. Anything as low or lower than 140 should do.
2. Make sure your HT Multiplier is set to 2 for now.
3. After 2.8Ghz you may need to start increasing your Vcore little by little. Do not be surprised if your over 1.5Volts

Your RAM/ChipSet should be fine where they are right now. You try upping them a bit at a time if needed. DFI default voltage for the chip set should be fine, but again not every Mobo is the same.

Allright Ill loosen the timings looser than a and set the HT lower and see what happens.


----------



## mudd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Allright Ill loosen the timings looser than a and set the HT lower and see what happens.

lol i <3


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Allright Ill loosen the timings looser than a and set the HT lower and see what happens.

haha









It's always best to have it loose as possible when OC'ing. DFI is a finicky motherboard and will require hours of tweaking once you reach the max CPU overclock. My experience with the DFI Expert was that the CPU was fairly easy to OC, it was the RAM that takes a good amount of time figuring out.

Most of my instability issues have been the RAM in fact. I can boot in and run all my normal apps at 3.1+Ghz BUT games and stress tests are unstable.


----------



## eviloverclocker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mudd* 
up your chipset voltage by a hair. see if that does anything.

I got my chipset bumped up a little, kinda limited with this board. Still don't know why my pci slot would fail when I can run it in another slot just fine. It won't run it at stock either???


----------



## eviloverclocker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mudd* 
lol i <3

Can I use this quote? thats funny as h3ll lol!!!


----------



## mudd

i hated tinkering w/ my DFI board advanced memory timings. most of the stuff in there is a bunch of BS that doesn't really matter as far as performance, but if a setting is wrong, too tight or whatever it will make your life hell.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eviloverclocker* 
Can I use this quote? thats funny as h3ll lol!!!










i don't care if u quote me.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eviloverclocker*


I mean this one lol!!!!!










 Go right ahead


----------



## BlackOmega

Well I got it to 290mhz (2610) with 3-3-3-8 timings, you guys think I should try even looser than that, maybe 4-4-4-10?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well I got it to 290mhz (2610) with 3-3-3-8 timings, you guys think I should try even looser than that, maybe 4-4-4-10?


those timings are fine. What is the RAM running at now? DDR???

If my power is on when I get home, I'll see I can find my sister's digital camera and get pic's of my current RAM timings on my Expert. I may have a few more options than your DFI Mobo, but it should be close.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


those timings are fine. What is the RAM running at now? DDR???

If my power is on when I get home, I'll see I can find my sister's digital camera and get pic's of my current RAM timings on my Expert. I may have a few more options than your DFI Mobo, but it should be close.


 The RAM is running @ 174 (cpu/15). Well just for kicks and giggles I tried the 4-4-4-10, lol it wouldnt even POST.







Hmmm.... maybe its the RAM itself. Over on the DFI forums (which kinda suck) I did read that these boards didnt "like" Hyper-x RAM. I was thinking of getting the Corsair sticks off of my Asus board. If I run just 2 sticks, should I use the yellow or the orange slots? 
Very cool those pics will definitely help









Heres teh CPUz for the current settings http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=467752


----------



## BlackOmega

Well, I got kinda bored so I decided to suicide run my venice 3500+. Got it to 2900







, but it BSODed in wondows. Ill try to get a cpuz @ 2860. It got into windows and everything, but I got greedy tryed goin for 2900. O well, man what a big difference between single and dual core. Definitely a bottleneck with single core, about 40% lower FPS in TF2 and CSS.


----------



## StormX2

isnt TF2 Set for Dual Core?


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *StormX2*


isnt TF2 Set for Dual Core?


Yeah they just enabled multi-core on the 11th.
CSS is still single core I believe, but my framerate also went up with a dual core (I assume because of background processes).


----------



## StormX2

Inded, the Second core does wonders for the junk in the back.

Also 2 cores seems to help the GPU move information back and forth petween itself and the memory.


----------



## mudd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well, I got kinda bored so I decided to suicide run my venice 3500+. Got it to 2900







, but it BSODed in wondows. Ill try to get a cpuz @ 2860. It got into windows and everything, but I got greedy tryed goin for 2900. O well, man what a big difference between single and dual core. Definitely a bottleneck with single core, about 40% lower FPS in TF2 and CSS.


i rememeber when i suicided my 3500+. i only got it up to 2.7 GHz @ 1.7v. and that thing would not blow up. i didn't take my heatsink off of it of course, but my temps were stayin around 55c =/


----------



## BlackOmega

I havent taken it to 1.7v yet. The highest I got with it was 1.64v. This chip is my test chip as it were. Im going to lap it, check temps and all that good stuff suicide run it again see if the lap helped, then Im going to delid it and see how much that helps the temps. Its actually kind of "fast" when nothings going on


----------



## mudd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I havent taken it to 1.7v yet. The highest I got with it was 1.64v. This chip is my test chip as it were. Im going to lap it, check temps and all that good stuff suicide run it again see if the lap helped, then Im going to delid it and see how much that helps the temps. Its actually kind of "fast" when nothings going on










screw lapping it. go get a razor and a handle and cut the IHS off







took me 10 seconds hammered drunk to do it. I sold that chip to someone here on OCN, i'm sure the chip is still floating around here somewhere.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mudd* 
screw lapping it. go get a razor and a handle and cut the IHS off







took me 10 seconds hammered drunk to do it. I sold that chip to someone here on OCN, i'm sure the chip is still floating around here somewhere.


Lawl, the lap was gonna be practice for my optys'. But I might just skip that step


----------



## mudd

it saves a lot of time b y just cutting the IHS off. lapping you have to worry about bending the pins, not lapping it right, wasting 3-4 hours of good quality drinking time....

just get a razor and cut the puppy off. they sell these cheap-o plastic handles at the home depot w/ some razor blades that are the perfect depth to cut off all sorts of IHS's.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mudd* 
took me 10 seconds hammered drunk to do it.











Quote:


Originally Posted by *mudd* 
, wasting 3-4 hours of good quality drinking time....


----------



## mudd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 




























































haha caught on that i like sauce eh?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mudd* 
haha caught on that i like sauce eh?

Location: Missouri


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
Yeah they just enabled multi-core on the 11th.
CSS is still single core I believe, but my framerate also went up with a dual core (I assume because of background processes).

OT

Nate, was this in the release news for the 11th? I don't remember seeing this. Is this automatically enabled? A while back, the command to unlock dual core support within TF2 was glitchy and bugging.

Thanks


----------



## nategr8ns

I thought it was in the release news but now I'm not too sure. Maybe it was just a rumor when I read it







.


----------



## mudd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
OT

Nate, was this in the release news for the 11th? I don't remember seeing this. Is this automatically enabled? A while back, the command to unlock dual core support within TF2 was glitchy and bugging.

Thanks

i've been doing some reading and i can't really find an answer-all, but from what all the info says, TF2 = dual core optimized/enabled peroid? there's some tweaks that you can do to make it run more smoothly, but in a nutshell tf2 runs some sort of particle thingy on one core and the rest on another?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mudd*


i've been doing some reading and i can't really find an answer-all, but from what all the info says, TF2 = dual core optimized/enabled peroid? there's some tweaks that you can do to make it run more smoothly, but in a nutshell tf2 runs some sort of particle thingy on one core and the rest on another?


Mudd, thanks for the info. I'll look into this as well.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mudd*


it saves a lot of time b y just cutting the IHS off. lapping you have to worry about bending the pins, not lapping it right, wasting 3-4 hours of good quality drinking time....

just get a razor and cut the puppy off. they sell these cheap-o plastic handles at the home depot w/ some razor blades that are the perfect depth to cut off all sorts of IHS's.


If only it were that easy. I spent two hours delidding mine and it never booted again.


----------



## mudd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Location: Missouri

















meh, i'm a high tech *******.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mudd*


it saves a lot of time b y just cutting the IHS off. lapping you have to worry about bending the pins, not lapping it right, wasting 3-4 hours of good quality drinking time....

just get a razor and cut the puppy off. they sell these cheap-o plastic handles at the home depot w/ some razor blades that are the perfect depth to cut off all sorts of IHS's.


 Well I quit drinking about 3 years ago. I just drink on special occaisions now







I used to go out all the time, at least 5 days a week. My record is 6 months straight going out every night drinking with mah homies.
















But that was before kids, now I _MAYBE_ drink once a month, and thats a very big maybe.







Tell you honestly I dont really miss it, well, except for the hot chicks


----------



## thlnk3r

Guys please stay on topic and keep it *clean *


----------



## nategr8ns

woah what did I miss?


----------



## thlnk3r

Something about the beautiful city of Tijuana...

Does anyone here have experience with Corsair XMS DDR500? I don't know the exact IC's as of yet but I have a set of this (2x512MB) that I might be playing with.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Guys please stay on topic and keep it *clean *










 Sorry


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Guys and doll, just as a heads-up: Our much-ballyhooed Club-exclusive Contest is almost ready to go prime time.







I only have to hear from one officer, and it's off to the madhouse with whole lot of you!









Meanwhile, I'll soon be building my next machine. It'll be a S939er, of course. I may be posting a worklog for it as well. I hope this is my best build yet.









Lots of great activity here.







Just wanted to let y'all know y'all are doing a great job.


----------



## GuardianOdin

BlackOmega- My power was turned back on and I took some pics. I'm trying to find the connector for my sister's camera to get them uploaded for you. We had everything packed up when we thought we were losing the house"but we didn't







".....so it is here some where.


----------



## thlnk3r

Looking forward to it Joe. I plan on destroying my 3700+ San Diego


----------



## pez

Kinda been out of the loop of this thread :/. But on the otherhand, I see boxes for my 22" monitor and 2nd 9800gt under the tree







. I'm super excited to get to play all my games in widescreen and at a huge res







.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
BlackOmega- My power was turned back on and I took some pics. I'm trying to find the connector for my sister's camera to get them uploaded for you. We had everything packed up when we thought we were losing the house"but we didn't







".....so it is here some where.


Glad you didn't lose it







: Take your time, Ive been messing with the Venice for a little bit, Im going to try some different stuff with it, maybe it'll clock a little higher.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
I see boxes for my 22" monitor and 2nd 9800gt under the tree







.


----------



## BlackOmega

Hey guys check out this smokin deal on some OCZ RAM $34.99 after MIR.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 












































Haha that's what I said







. Hey guys, also, if I could get your opinions in this thread:

http://www.overclock.net/windows/430...ml#post5156094

Thanks


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Haha that's what I said







. Hey guys, also, if I could get your opinions in this thread:

http://www.overclock.net/windows/430...ml#post5156094

Thanks

Id imagine if it calls for 40gb then it must utilize all 40. Anyway, I dont think that drive is all that special. Get more info about it. How many RPM is it? Its only 8mb cache which kinda sux, IMO. The next HDD Im lookin at will have a 32mb cache. Hell event he drive I have now is 16mb. I think someones trying to take advantage of you.
Hope this helps.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Id imagine if it calls for 40gb then it must utilize all 40. Anyway, I dont think that drive is all that special. Get more info about it. How many RPM is it? Its only 8mb cache which kinda sux, IMO. The next HDD Im lookin at will have a 32mb cache. Hell event he drive I have now is 16mb. I think someones trying to take advantage of you.
Hope this helps.

thlnk3r runs a 74GB Raptor. I think his has just 8MB cache as well. What I do know for sure is that he raves about the Raptor.

So much so that he has convinced me to plunk down some koins for a couple of VelociRaptors for the build I'm doing (from my post several hours ago).


----------



## Blitz6804

A COUPLE of VelociRaptors? What ever happened to Mr. Simplicity? I would think you would go for a single-drive configuration. I wish to have a RAID 5 or RAID 0+1 someday when the money loosens up; my guess this is at what you are looking.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


thlnk3r runs a 74GB Raptor. I think his has just 8MB cache as well. What I do know for sure is that he raves about the Raptor.

So much so that he has convinced me to plunk down some koins for a couple of VelociRaptors for the build I'm doing (from my post several hours ago).










 Maybe the RPM makes up for the small cache size? I think that theyre just too expensive. I mean how much faster are my load times really going to be? If I were to use any RAID config it'd be either RAID 0+1 or 5. Raid 0 is very risky, if 1 drive goes or gets corrupt, all your info is *poof* gone







.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Maybe the RPM makes up for the small cache size? I think that theyre just too expensive. I mean how much faster are my load times really going to be? If I were to use any RAID config it'd be either RAID 0+1 or 5. Raid 0 is very risky, if 1 drive goes or gets corrupt, all your info is *poof* gone







.


Well to it's the point of having the OS on a HDD by itself that should in turn let all of the OS operations run faster. (Faster boot times, load times w/ windows programs).


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Well to it's the point of having the OS on a HDD by itself that should in turn let all of the OS operations run faster. (Faster boot times, load times w/ windows programs).

Mine really arent that slow in the first place. Any OS based operation seems to fly on by, the only things that seem kind of slow are certain games, and thats actually joining an online game not starting it up and getting to the menu and all that.
Whats the deal youre proposing for this raptor?


----------



## thlnk3r

Don't be to quick to judge a 10K drive. The access times make up for everything. Granted my drive doesn't get the highest burst or sustained rates (SATA 150) but the access times are rewarding. Running these in any RAID setup is also not a bad idea. Example, four of these in raid 1+0 (aka raid 10) offers more drive I/O then a single drive. Just talk with DukieHo. He has three of these 74GB models (16MB cache) in RAID 0 on a Dell Perc 5/i controller....and I'm sorry but there is never going to be a 7,200RPM drive that out performs a 10K or even a 15K in access times.

If I had the cash, I'd pick up another for a RAID 1 config









Good luck


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Mine really arent that slow in the first place. Any OS based operation seems to fly on by, the only things that seem kind of slow are certain games, and thats actually joining an online game not starting it up and getting to the menu and all that.
Whats the deal youre proposing for this raptor?

Well I can't find the card I was going to trade, but it will probably end up being my old 3500+ and about 10-15 bucks for it.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Well I can't find the card I was going to trade, but it will probably end up being my old 3500+ and about 10-15 bucks for it.


Well in that case Id say go for it


----------



## pioneerisloud

Alrighty guys, it is that time! Pioneerisloud has an MSI K8N Neo4 SLI Platinum up for sale or trade. Thread can be found here. I will be testing this board a day or so after Christmas (it is fully functional now), to see what exactly she can do. Same with the AData RAM that is on it too. Its a great motherboard and has clocked the crap out of the current Opteron 170 that is installed on it.

Figured I'd let you guys know...just in case somebody in our club has a bad board and needs a replacement.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


A COUPLE of VelociRaptors? What ever happened to Mr. Simplicity? I would think you would go for a single-drive configuration. I wish to have a RAID 5 or RAID 0+1 someday when the money loosens up; my guess this is at what you are looking.


Relax. Mr. Simplicity never went anywhere.









Who said I was going RAID? Two VelociRaptors (one 150GB, one 300GB) in JBoD is what I'm doing. Just like the current gaming rig, albeit with two different-sized drives.









I'll do RAID in the future. But not with this particular build.







And I've got other ideas, other conceptual obsessions that will be satisfied before I do a RAID setup.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Maybe the RPM makes up for the small cache size? I think that theyre just too expensive. I mean how much faster are my load times really going to be? If I were to use any RAID config it'd be either RAID 0+1 or 5. Raid 0 is very risky, if 1 drive goes or gets corrupt, all your info is *poof* gone







.


Let's say thlnk3r's anecdotal evidence is enough to intrigue me. This next build ought to give an interesting comparison against what I have now. OS and data HDDs both at 10000RPMs ought to show noticeable improvements in access times and read/write performance.

HDDs are still THE biggest performance bottleneck in a system. Especially in an overclocked system, HDDs are the one thing that hold up the parade. This next build is partly an experiment, an investigation into just how big a difference an extra 2800RPMs in HDD spindle speed can make.

We'll all find out when I do, because I'll share data here.


----------



## StormX2

I am bored...

Guys my opty rig isnt Cutting it with Warhammer online anymore =(

I dont know what I need, but If I cannot handle 400 players on a screen battlein over a Huge Fortress for more than an hour or 2 than I am just not happy =(


----------



## pez

Ok, I found the card I was looking, so that means for me, this is what the future brings:

Acer 22" Widescreen
2nd 9800GT for SLI
2 more gigs of Mushkin Redline
36 Gig Raptor for OS

Me = Super happy.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *StormX2*


I am bored...

Guys my opty rig isnt Cutting it with Warhammer online anymore =(

I dont know what I need, but If I cannot handle 400 players on a screen battlein over a Huge Fortress for more than an hour or 2 than I am just not happy =(


 Now is that a CPU or GPU bottleneck? I myself am contemplating building an intel based rig, still not sure if I want a Q6600 or an E8400/8600. The parts are getting so cheap now that I realized I could build one rather than stepping up my video cards. You can get 4gb of RAM for around $30, while a new cpu is still around $180, I was looking at this board. When I was looking at the cpuz records page it holds a lot of OC records. So for under $400 I could have a pretty smokin system. Then I can do a comparison of how much of a difference would an average person expect, if any. Then I can debunk or confirm any supposed cpu bottleneck myths.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Let's say thlnk3r's anecdotal evidence is enough to intrigue me. This next build ought to give an interesting comparison against what I have now. OS and data HDDs both at 10000RPMs ought to show noticeable improvements in access times and read/write performance.

HDDs are still THE biggest performance bottleneck in a system. Especially in an overclocked system, HDDs are the one thing that hold up the parade. This next build is partly an experiment, an investigation into just how big a difference an extra 2800RPMs in HDD spindle speed can make.

We'll all find out when I do, because I'll share data here.










Does that mean you expect me to performance test the SSDs we were talking about a while ago? If I get a decent paying job (getting hard these days) post-graduation, I might look into it.

BlackOmega: We can almost test it now. After Christmas, my dad's system and Pez's system will be very similar. Both are nVidia 8800 GT SLI (9800 GT SLI is the same), both have 2 GB of RAM, both have similar HDDs. The difference here is that one is an E6850; one is an X2 3800+.


----------



## nategr8ns

Man I wish I could upgrade now







. I don't really need to, but I would love to have an Intel build. I have enough money to build a nice one, but I have to save up for a car.

Omega, what about an e8500? I personally would not go with a q66 but with one of the newer quads (if you go quad and not dual). That board does look pretty good for the price







. What about DFIs? I've always liked them







.


----------



## pioneerisloud

That's alright guys







. You go ahead and upgrade. I'll hold this 939 club together myself if I have to dangit.

If I had the money to, I'd upgrade myself as well. I'm just too broke to upgrade







. And I'd be honestly looking towards Deneb and a nice AM2+ mobo that supports it. But that's just me, because I really hope Deneb is what they're all making it to sound like







.


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, if I get lucky and score some big money for my birthday, I might seek out a Phenom II, so I will keep you posted.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Well, if I get lucky and score some big money for my birthday, I might seek out a Phenom II, so I will keep you posted.


I am so right there with you Blitz. I love my 939 rig, but that Phenom II is looking teh sexy! Off to play the lottery...wish me luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, my birthday is in May. While I have no clue how much Phenom IIs cost, I would say that it might not be out of my budget. Well, depending if my dad still has a job come January. (We'll see about that one.)


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


BlackOmega: We can almost test it now. After Christmas, my dad's system and Pez's system will be very similar. Both are nVidia 8800 GT SLI (9800 GT SLI is the same), both have 2 GB of RAM, both have similar HDDs. The difference here is that one is an E6850; one is an X2 3800+.


 Kewl, let me know the results.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Omega, what about an e8500? I personally would not go with a q66 but with one of the newer quads (if you go quad and not dual). That board does look pretty good for the price







. What about DFIs? I've always liked them







.


 Its all abotu the price, and I've pretty consistantly have seen the Q6600's around the 4ghz range. And if I went with an E series it'll more than likely be the 8400, once again overall price is a factor.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


That's alright guys







. You go ahead and upgrade. I'll hold this 939 club together myself if I have to dangit.
.


 Hey man I aint goin anywhere, itll just be another 1 to the collection. Ill probably wind up selling the DFI's or giving them to the folks or something. They really need an upgrade theyve got a 423 pin P4


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Does that mean you expect me to performance test the SSDs we were talking about a while ago? If I get a decent paying job (getting hard these days) post-graduation, I might look into it.


Well... if you can, then I can only hope you see fit to share with us whatever you can.









pio: Please check your email. Contest information awaits your comment.









Upgrades: I've only one upgrade planned for this coming year. It won't be a platform move, simply because I personally don't see the need for it yet. I will wait until I'm sure that the performance leap is great enough (i.e., circa 30% at least faster than my present setup) to justify buying everything. No, the upgrade I'm alluding to is to further my self-education in this overclocking/performance computing lark.

I'm going to take my chips swimming sometime in 2009.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
If I get a decent paying job (getting hard these days) post-graduation,

Ohh with the economy nowadays I'm sure there will be lots of slots available in the "Prosecution" area!









Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
That's alright guys







. And I'd be honestly looking towards Deneb and a nice AM2+ mobo that supports it.











Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
I am so right there with you Blitz. I love my 939 rig, but that Phenom II is looking teh sexy! Off to play the lottery...wish me luck










X3


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I will wait until I'm sure that the performance leap is great enough (i.e., circa 30% at least faster than my present setup) to justify buying everything.

Txtmstrjoe, same here. The is the second Christmas where I haven't upgraded









I myself am waiting for a 50% jump in increase with the next build which I think is asking to much heh.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Txtmstrjoe, same here. The is the second Christmas where I haven't upgraded









*I myself am waiting for a 50% jump in increase with the next build which I think is asking to much* heh.

Well, with tech advancing like it is, I think we're in for a big jump by 2010.

According to the last projections I read, that's when AMD will be releasing their 12-core Magny Cours Opterons.







And you, my friend, know what my plans are for those beasts.

Of course, if someone releases a Formula One simulation that absolutely required a platform upgrade sooner rather than my intended planned date of May 2010... I would reconsider.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Well... if you can, then I can only hope you see fit to share with us whatever you can.









*pio: Please check your email. Contest information awaits your comment.







*

Upgrades: I've only one upgrade planned for this coming year. It won't be a platform move, simply because I personally don't see the need for it yet. I will wait until I'm sure that the performance leap is great enough (i.e., circa 30% at least faster than my present setup) to justify buying everything. No, the upgrade I'm alluding to is to further my self-education in this overclocking/performance computing lark.

I'm going to take my chips swimming sometime in 2009.









Please check your PM box Joe. I think that pretty much sums up my opinions on what needs to be said







.

@thinkerbell:
Check my sig. You wanted to know when I was ready to put that board up for sale. There ya go







.


----------



## StormX2

Yah I just want to be able to Play Warhammer online and handle Massive 400 person Battles without Lagging so badly that Character's actually vanish from my screen.

I know the biggest thing for me to look for Id have to say is RAM, and VRAM.

it is Hihgly possible that the 939 and DDR1 setup is completely limiting how the data can flow.

My computer can handle RvR for about an hour, afte rthat it starts to get a little choppy though I must say my computer runs the game lik e achamp at 1680x1050 with 2x AA and 16x AF (I cannot play an MMO without minimum of 2xAA)

I am pretty certain that if I can figure out the right settings and option's that the game itself prefer's that i could improve performance, bu I am just unsure, and the information found on other forums are not really for my system =(

As far as me building a new machine, I am broke.. I could consider an easy Build with intel, E8400 or overclock E7200, maybe the new GTX 260 216 55nm Sku and just find myself the Most ammount of Ram that I can get..

I would rather do a total new build that will be a considerable spead change as compared to my Opty, as it is a beast. just about 3 years old now.

I do prefer to go with AMD next time though, just not doing AM2+ seem slike a waiste of effort.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I'm a total ignoramus when it comes to games like Warhammer, but what are the usual causes of performance lag when it comes to a game like this?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *StormX2*


it is Hihgly possible that the 939 and DDR1 setup is completely limiting how the data can flow.

*My computer can handle RvR for about an hour, afte rthat it starts to get a little choppy though* I must say my computer runs the game lik e achamp at 1680x1050 with 2x AA and 16x AF (I cannot play an MMO without minimum of 2xAA)


 I kind of doubt it, looking at what youve said it sounds to me like temps are an issue not your RAM. Theres no reason that it would play fine for an hour then all of the sudden start getting bad anomalies like you're saying.
As for the RAM, I know Pio has been able to get some of his sticks to run @ DDR2 timing so I kind of doubt that is your issue as well, unless you just dont have enough of it.
So, basically do this, get a can of that spray air crap, clean out every heat sink and fan. Make sure to get the GPU really well, sometimes its difficult to get all of the dust out of them.
Also, if you havent tried this already, take the side panel off your rig and see if your problems go away, if they do then you most definitely know its a heat issue.
Personally, the only time Ive ever seen performance drops like that were with my work computers, they never got blown out. I wish I couldve recorded a video of me blowing them out. I actually needed a dust mask because there was soo much. After I blew them out, lo and behold they worked A LOT better/faster.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well I personally don't really know Warhammer...

However Crysis does very similar things to me. It plays just fine at Ultra settings (or Enthusiast for Warhead), and then after about 30-60 minutes or so, the framerates just slow down to a crawl...and eventually it becomes unplayable.

However that is Crysis for you







. Hence why I am going SLI. I know the rest of my system can pull it off, so I know the issue for Crysis is me not having enough GPU power.

Again, I don't know what Warhammer even is, so this may be little to no help.

And yes, I was able to run both sets of my XMS @ DDR533, 3-3-3-8-1T timings, and I outbenched DDR2 1000 @ 5-5-5-15. However together, I can only pull off DDR450, 2.5-3-2-5-2T....so my bandwidth got pretty limited there.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *StormX2*


My computer can handle RvR for about an hour, afte rthat it starts to get a little choppy


Couple of possibilities are a memory leak or VM thrashing. G/L









Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Well I personally don't really know Warhammer...

Again, I don't know what Warhammer even is, so this may be little to no help.










:swearing::swearing::swearing::swearing:

You don't know what your missing!


----------



## mudd

so any of you thinkin about upgrading to phenom2?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mudd*


so any of you thinkin about upgrading to phenom2?










If I'm able to scratch up the cash that will be my next upgrade. I'm still on Uni's!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

StormX2, this source suggests that it could be either a driver-based issue or a power supply issue. (See Post# 13.) The OP in this thread is using a single-core S939; the other respondents in the thread say that even this CPU is more than enough for the game, so your venerable Opteron dual-core is good.

Good luck.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Does that mean you expect me to performance test the SSDs we were talking about a while ago? If I get a decent paying job (getting hard these days) post-graduation, I might look into it.

BlackOmega: We can almost test it now. After Christmas, my dad's system and Pez's system will be very similar. Both are nVidia 8800 GT SLI (9800 GT SLI is the same), both have 2 GB of RAM, both have similar HDDs. The difference here is that one is an E6850; one is an X2 3800+.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Kewl, let me know the results.


Well I'll have 4 gigs soon blitzy, via you







. Pio and I discussed earlier today that we are going to do a comparison test/results thread once I get my 4 gigs so we can compare the 3800+ x2 and the opty to show some results to those curious basically. It'll be interesting to test and benchmark our rarities. So basically, x8/x8 SLI on a 939 board w/ 98/88GTs. I can't wait







.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Keep in mind Pez, I run 16x, 16x in SLI







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

pez, I for one eagerly await the results.

Now, if only my evil twin could find the time to send out a video card to pio, you guys can get this show on the road.









StormX2, a little bit more digging found this thread that you may find helpful. I haven't read the whole thread, but some are suggesting that even high-end rigs have problems with choppiness and lag. The problem might be a then-recent patch of the game combined with the video drivers. Anyway, it's a lead that you might want to follow. Hopefully there's a helpful nugget of info there for you.

Good luck.


----------



## StormX2

Yah, ahh once thing I do need to do is find me some good antivirus and such.

I have not run antivirus or spamblockers for about 8 years.. So that might be a good idead.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Well I'll have 4 gigs soon blitzy, via you







. Pio and I discussed earlier today that we are going to do a comparison test/results thread once I get my 4 gigs so we can compare the 3800+ x2 and the opty to show some results to those curious basically. It'll be interesting to test and benchmark our rarities. So basically, x8/x8 SLI on a 939 board w/ 98/88GTs. I can't wait







.


To make it fair, I am likely going to need to drop his CPU multiplier. You are running 2550 or so? If that is the case, I need to see if he has a downwardly unlocked multiplier (I am sure he does) and can get my hands on it to test. Your motherboard is only 8x/8x? I will need to cut that too then (his is 16x/16x) to be absolutely fair. Only game you two have in common though is CoD4 unfortunately.


----------



## BlackOmega

Actually, if its been that long since you've installed your OS, it might not be a bad idea to back up all the stuff you want to keep and reinstall. Its pretty amazing how fast comps get when you do a fresh install. They dont have all the left over bits from other drivers and whatnot. But what do I know I never use driver sweeper and change my video drivers more often than some people change their socks.


----------



## BlackOmega

Offtopic: WOOHOOO!!!! I got my first blue flame thingy


----------



## Blitz6804

Congratulations on 25 reputations BlackOmega.

StormX2: When is the last time you ran a disk defragment? When is the last time you cleared your temporary files? When is the last time you cleared your system restore points? I would delete all but the last restore point, clear your temporary files, then run a disk defragment. Defragmenting the registry may not be a bad idea either. I personally highly recommend CCleaner. It is donateware available readily through Google. (Donateware is freeware that strongly wishes for donations.) Run CCleaner a few times in both modes until both scans come up empty. Then do 3-5 disk defragmentations.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Keep in mind Pez, I run 16x, 16x in SLI







.


Ah, that sucks :/. That means you'll totally rape me in the benchmarks. Oh well. I'm still curious to see how well the SLI does on a 939 mobo w/ a "crappy cpu".

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


To make it fair, I am likely going to need to drop his CPU multiplier. You are running 2550 or so? If that is the case, I need to see if he has a downwardly unlocked multiplier (I am sure he does) and can get my hands on it to test. Your motherboard is only 8x/8x? I will need to cut that too then (his is 16x/16x) to be absolutely fair. Only game you two have in common though is CoD4 unfortunately.


And Crysis Warhead. Either way, x8/x8 don't show much difference form what I've read, considering that 88GTs don't use full x16 bandwidth anyways. I guess we'll just have to see. I hope I don't expect too much from these cards :/.


----------



## Blitz6804

My father owns no version of Crysis at all.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Ah, that sucks :/. That means you'll totally rape me in the benchmarks. Oh well. I'm still curious to see how well the SLI does on a 939 mobo w/ a "crappy cpu".

And Crysis Warhead. Either way, x8/x8 don't show much difference form what I've read, considering that 88GTs don't use full x16 bandwidth anyways. I guess we'll just have to see. I hope I don't expect too much from these cards :/.


Well I'm with you there







. I'm expecting quite a bit from them in SLI. Guess time will tell (until I get them).

I believe I may be able to limit my PCIe lanes to 8x bandwidth in BIOS though (could be wrong). I'll check that out when the time gets closer to our runs.

And I'm sure we can find other things to bench as well. You can get the Crysis Demo and Benchmark utility so we can do regular Crysis. We've got got Warhead. We've both got COD4 (although I don't know how we'd bench with COD4 TBH), and we've both got 3DMark06. I'm sure we can throw something together for benches







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


My father owns no version of Crysis at all.


Christmas gift?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


My father owns no version of Crysis at all.


I think you've gotten Pez mistaken Blitz. He was referring to ME and himself to do bench runs.

However if you want to jump in with your dad's rig, go for it







. The more the merrier (and more proof). However I am still awaiting my other 8800GT, so I have no clue if we'll be ready to do this until after you get home.


----------



## pez

I updated my rig rather early







. The anticipation is killing me 2 more days! Soon I am off to try 1.55 Vcore to see if I can stabilize anything past 2.55Ghz. Wish me luck.


----------



## Blitz6804

He absolutely hates FPSes. I seriously doubt he would enjoy me purchasing him a surprisingly mediocre one.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Actually, if its been that long since you've installed your OS, it might not be a bad idea to back up all the stuff you want to keep and reinstall. Its pretty amazing how fast comps get when you do a fresh install. They dont have all the left over bits from other drivers and whatnot. But what do I know I never use driver sweeper and change my video drivers more often than some people change their socks.

I never do a reinstall. But I do keep backups and roll back my Registry every so often.

A great rule of thumb is when you initially install the Os and install all your core programs make a registry backup right then and you will always have a crisp registry to go back to. it doesn't matter how many times you add programs or drivers,The registry is what matters.

Also I keep backups of all my INF files. Believe me this comes in handy. You can copy the files onto other systems and install drivers without haveing to install a 100MB driver package.


----------



## Blitz6804

I wish I did that Hueristic. Somehow, my PC lost an INF and now I cannot install my Northbridge Filter driver. I am dreading how I am going to need to fix the problem. (Install Vista on another HDD. Then copy the needed INFs to the primary drive. Then install driver and reformat the spare drive.)


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I wish I did that Hueristic. Somehow, my PC lost an INF and now I cannot install my Northbridge Filter driver. I am dreading how I am going to need to fix the problem. (Install Vista on another HDD. Then copy the needed INFs to the primary drive. Then install driver and reformat the spare drive.)









do a search and you may be able to find the inf. Alot of times you can find it in txt format on a site and just copy the text and save it in the format "filename.inf G/L


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *StormX2* 
I have not run antivirus or spamblockers for about 8 years.. So that might be a good idead.

StormX2, that is completely fine if you never access the internet via web browser. In any case I'd probably run something for protection. I personally run Avast. It's free and light weight.

Congrats BlackOmega on your first flame


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I wish I did that Hueristic. Somehow, my PC lost an INF and now I cannot install my Northbridge Filter driver. I am dreading how I am going to need to fix the problem. (Install Vista on another HDD. Then copy the needed INFs to the primary drive. Then install driver and reformat the spare drive.)

Blitz, that's probably what I would do. What .INF file are you needing? What version of Vista are you running?

Good luck


----------



## Livinstrong

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
StormX2, that is completely fine if you never access the internet via web browser. In any case I'd probably run something for protection. I personally run Avast. It's free and light weight.

Congrats BlackOmega on your first flame









I think that Avast! has to be the best free antvirus software out. I love it!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Livinstrong* 
I think that Avast! has to be the best free antvirus software out. I love it!

Livinstrong, yeah I literally get new definition files like twice a day. I've been using this app for almost 4 years.

Good stuff


----------



## Blitz6804

Vista Ultimate 64-bit Service Pack 1 on an AMD 790FX. No clue what INF I even need. All I know is that any attempt to install the Northbridge Filter Driver, it errors saying missing INF. I was at one time able to install the driver until CCC 8.10 got on my system. Now no version of NBFD will install.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


I never do a reinstall. But I do keep backups and roll back my Registry every so often.

A great rule of thumb is when you initially install the Os and install all your core programs make a registry backup right then and you will always have a crisp registry to go back to. it doesn't matter how many times you add programs or drivers,The registry is what matters.

Also I keep backups of all my INF files. Believe me this comes in handy. You can copy the files onto other systems and install drivers without haveing to install a 100MB driver package.










Heuristic, very interesting and good advice here. I will have to try this strategy with my next build!









Thanks!


----------



## pioneerisloud

As I'm sure a lot of you guys know, Grand Theft Auto IV for PC hasn't gotten very many good reviews. It seems it takes quite the monster machine to run it.

Well, I will also be putting that to the test soon enough! I'm getting it for Christmas







. I know of quite a few "high end" Intel rigs that struggle with it. So we'll see what my 5-6 year old Socket 939 machine can do with this latest "impossible to run" game.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


As I'm sure a lot of you guys know, Grand Theft Auto IV for PC hasn't gotten very many good reviews. It seems it takes quite the monster machine to run it.

Well, I will also be putting that to the test soon enough! I'm getting it for Christmas







. I know of quite a few "high end" Intel rigs that struggle with it. So we'll see what my 5-6 year old Socket 939 machine can do with this latest "impossible to run" game.


From what I've read so far about it, it's not a case of the hardware not being good enough to run it. Rather, the suggestion is that Rockstar (or whomever) did a shoddy job porting it over to PC.

It'd be a pity if the game isn't eventually patched well enough to buy, because my sister and I have been itching to get this game. We're big fans of the series, and we don't have a current-gen console (that's not a Wii).


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Vista Ultimate 64-bit Service Pack 1 on an AMD 790FX. No clue what INF I even need. All I know is that any attempt to install the Northbridge Filter Driver, it errors saying missing INF. I was at one time able to install the driver until CCC 8.10 got on my system. Now no version of NBFD will install.


After a few searches it looks like this is an error with the ati cat drivers. they remove the file but do not update it. Apparently it wasn't placed in the CC. I would extract the NB drivers and manually place the inf file in the inf directory. I you have a hard time uncompressing the driver package then the easiest way I've found to get the files is to start the install and while the files are uncompressing multi out and search for the files (usually in windows\emp\\??????????????. G\\L

If this doesn't work start a thread in the Os area and we can work on it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


*Heuristic*, very interesting and good advice here. I will have to try this strategy with my next build!









Thanks!










H*ue*ristic.







NP Bro


----------



## StormX2

Ah, Whish version of Avast Must I downlaod for Free Virus Murdering Love =?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *StormX2*


Ah, Whish version of Avast Must I downlaod for Free Virus Murdering Love =?


Storm, I have Avast Home Edition. It can be downloaded by going here: http://www.avast.com/eng/download-avast-home.html. When you install the application choose custom. That will let you select what components that will be installed.

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


H*ue*ristic.







NP Bro


Dangit! I keep on doing that!

That's the DISadvantage of being a spelling nazi...









Sorry, HUE! (Yeah, that's it. I'll cheat to avoid errors...)


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
I never do a reinstall. But I do keep backups and roll back my Registry every so often.

A great rule of thumb is when you initially install the Os and install all your core programs make a registry backup right then and you will always have a crisp registry to go back to. it doesn't matter how many times you add programs or drivers,The registry is what matters.

Also I keep backups of all my INF files. Believe me this comes in handy. You can copy the files onto other systems and install drivers without haveing to install a 100MB driver package.









Not a bad idea, I actually have system restore make a restore point eVery time I boot up







. If its used properly, it actually works fairly well. The last time I reinstalled was because of hardcore data corruption due to memory timings








But since then I have learned (the hard way), to back up any data I would like to keep or is irreplacable (sp?). Live and learn I suppose. But I still dont bother with driver sweeper, Ive used it before and it really seems to make no difference what so ever.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
StormX2, that is completely fine if you never access the internet via web browser. In any case I'd probably run something for protection. I personally run Avast. It's free and light weight.

Congrats BlackOmega on your first flame









I agree avast is the best









And thanx









Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
As I'm sure a lot of you guys know, Grand Theft Auto IV for PC hasn't gotten very many good reviews. It seems it takes quite the monster machine to run it.

Well, I will also be putting that to the test soon enough! I'm getting it for Christmas







. I know of quite a few "high end" Intel rigs that struggle with it. So we'll see what my 5-6 year old Socket 939 machine can do with this latest "impossible to run" game.


I love doing that with my machine supposed impossible to run games and I seem to run the without any issues. S939 FTMFW!


----------



## BlackOmega

OFFTOPIC:







Heres a kewl song Ive been diggin on lately 
ww.youtube.com/watch?v=CGGB-olkAi0


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Lady and gentlemen, the S939 Appreciation Club's Winter Contest is now LIVE.

I hope everyone has fun with this!


----------



## majakone

Hope everyone has a safe and happy holiday


----------



## thlnk3r

Merry Xmas all


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Bah, humbug.


----------



## Blitz6804

Merry Christmas (Dec 25) to most! Happy Hanukkah (Dec 21-29) to many more! Joyous Kwanzaa (Dec 26-Jan 1) to a few!


----------



## pez

Guys, come on. It's December 24th. Save it for tommorow







. I'll wish a Merry X-mas from my new monitor







.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Merry Christmas Eve all, enjoy the holiday and be safe.


----------



## Blitz6804

Exactly pez. How many of us will be near the forum tomorrow rather than with families?


----------



## nategr8ns

I will be
<<
>>


----------



## pioneerisloud

Heck, I don't even get to be near the forum today OR tomorrow! Been at her mom's all day. I finally get settled down in my nice comfy office chair....and now we have to go out to her gramma's!! Tomorrow its ALL about my family







. So I'll see you guys on the 26th, lol.


----------



## Hueristic

Merry X-Mas all! I'll be here or putting my system back together after a failed Run tomorrow!


----------



## pez

Oh what the hell. Merry Christmas guys. Here's to hoping my mobo wont' buckle while housing two 9800GT's.


----------



## Prideless

I am amazed how ginormous this thread is.

Is this where I go to ask for overclock advice?

I have an AMD X2 4200 with a GA-K8N-Pro-Sli Mobo

I was hoping someone can help me overclock with this processor and mobo.


----------



## Blitz6804

It certainly is Prideless. First and foremost, I would like to ask that you please provide a screenshot showing the CPU, the SPD, and the Memory tabs of CPU-Z. With that, we can see where you stand. You will also need a program like CoreTemp to ensure you keep your CPU at a safe temperature.

We can help further in future (explaining things better) but as a quick rubric to what the eventual goal will be:

1) Reduce CPU multiplier to 5x, reduce HT Link to 2x, reduce RAM to 200:100
2) Increase the HTT by 5 MHz
3) Run Orthos 30 minutes
4) If it passes, go to step 2; if it fails go to step 5
5) Subtract 10 MHz from the HTT you just tried and write that number down as "Max HTT"
6) Return HTT to 200, increase memory to 200:200
7) Increase the HTT by 5 MHz
8) Run Orthos 30 minutes
9) If it passes, go to step 7; if it fails go to step 10
10) Subtract 10 MHz from the HTT you just tried and write it down as "Max RAM"
11) Return the HTT to 200 and the RAM to 200:100, then set the CPU multiplier to its maximum (in your case, 11x)
12) Increase the HTT by 5 MHz
13) Run Orthos 30 minutes
14) If it passes, go to step 12; if it fails go to step 14
15) Subtract 10 MHz from the HTT you just tried, multiply it by the multiplier in step 11, and write it down as "Max CPU"
OPTIONAL:
16) Return the HTT to 200 and the CPU multiplier to 5x, change the HT Link to 5x
17) Increase the HTT by 5 MHz
18) Run Orthos 30 minutes
19) If it passes, go to step 16; if it fails go to step 20
20) Subtract 10 MHz from the HTT you just tried, multiply it by 5, and write it down as "Max HyperTransport"

Now we know your max CPU, max memory clock, max HyperTransport, and max HTT. If you enter those values into Gogar it will give you a good starting point for your overclock. (The boxes in Gogar correlate to step 15, step 10, step 20, and step 5 in my rubric above.)

Note, the "Max RAM" only applies for those timings. Change the timings, and you change the "Max RAM" value. Sometimes it is better to start looser and then try to tighten them down later. Note further that these all apply for the same voltages. If you increase your CPU voltage, you may increase Max CPU. If you increase your NBV or VDIMM, you may increase your Max RAM. If you increase HTV, you might increase your Max HyperTransport. Note all the mays. Voltage does not always increase the clockability.


----------



## BlackOmega




----------



## pez

Guess I did manage to get on today after all, despite waiting for my mom so we can open presents. Even though it's X-mas, my mom still went for her daily jog -_-. Oh the anticipation







.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*




































Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Guess I did manage to get on today after all, despite waiting for my mom so we can open presents. Even though it's X-mas, my mom still went for her daily jog -_-. Oh the anticipation







.


----------



## pez

Ok, so don't know how many of you are here, but I have my SLI set up and everything, BUT I'm having trouble OC'ing BOTH cards. When I go into Precision and apply my profile OC, it will apply it, but only to one card. I figured this out by going to GPU-z and checking. It had one card at 700/1005/1750, but the other one at stock clocks. Is this software limitation? What do I need to do?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Ok, so don't know how many of you are here, but I have my SLI set up and everything, BUT I'm having trouble OC'ing BOTH cards. When I go into Precision and apply my profile OC, it will apply it, but only to one card. I figured this out by going to GPU-z and checking. It had one card at 700/1005/1750, but the other one at stock clocks. Is this software limitation? What do I need to do?


Sorry, never SLI'd. Wierd though I would assume that SLI'd they would be locked at the same settings, being as you have to sli identicle series together IIRC. Not sure what precision is but I only use rivatuner, found it to be the most stable and versitile program avail for both ATI and Nvidia. Sorry I couldn't be ny help but in the christmas spirit I got the keyboard to reply. ;D


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Sorry, never SLI'd. Wierd though I would assume that SLI'd they would be locked at the same settings, being as you have to sli identicle series together IIRC. Not sure what precision is but I only use rivatuner, found it to be the most stable and versitile program avail for both ATI and Nvidia. Sorry I couldn't be ny help but in the christmas spirit I got the keyboard to reply. ;D










Haha thanks







. Now I do have another proble, though not big, yet still annoying. My volume levels have seemed to decrease. I mean, like 100 volume isn't loud, it's like a normal listening level now. Any ideas? I checked the reciever hooked to my speakers. Something tells me that since I enabled SLI that something is conflicting w/ the sound. The CD player part of the reciever works fine. For reference, for my computer I usually keep the reciever volume level at 20-26 and the loudest I usually set in vista is 32. This is for aux mode. The CD player part plays loud at level 8-14 on the reciever. I'm at a loss for what's going on. Lemme make sure I didn't knock anything loose I guess.


----------



## nategr8ns

well, you could try going back to a single GPU and see if that changes anything.


----------



## pez

Yeah, I'm gonna open my case up soon. I remember one time before I thought the audio was going out in one channel, but I somehow knocked it loose. IDK how though, because you have to like pry that thing to get it off.

Also, I tried the rear audio ports, and the front audio ports, so I've concluded that it can't be the speakers, or the reciever. The only thing else that I could think of is that I played music all night last night, but I don't remember the sound level I had it on. On the reciever though it was 20, but the computer one had to be somewhat low b/c it was just loud enough to put me to sleep, yet low enough not to wake my parents right under me.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Yeah, I'm gonna open my case up soon. I remember one time before I thought the audio was going out in one channel, but I somehow knocked it loose. IDK how though, because you have to like pry that thing to get it off.

Also, I tried the rear audio ports, and the front audio ports, so I've concluded that it can't be the speakers, or the reciever. The only thing else that I could think of is that I played music all night last night, but I don't remember the sound level I had it on. On the reciever though it was 20, but the computer one had to be somewhat low b/c it was just loud enough to put me to sleep, yet low enough not to wake my parents right under me.


Merry Christmas every one and good luck with that sound Pez. Hapy to see you got the sli going. Sorry I have been out of the loop for a while now. Have you had a chance to run Crysis or any other games call of duty 4 etc to see how much of an gain you achieved. Man I'm on a HP Pavilian a305w with only 256mb and seriousely missing my rigs back home









Any way, Hope all is well and everyone enjoys this Holliday.


----------



## pez

I haven't gotten to do any extensive tests w/ Crysis, but CoD4 is amazing. On 1680x1050 the lowest FPS I saw was 45. Also, mind you guys, that with the SLI, 2.55 was seemingly BSOD'ing and even sometimes my PC wouldn't post right. It would just go back and tell me that I need to change my Frequency (or FSB). I guess now, I'm just going to start saving for a new mobo, cpu, and ram. That way I can turn this into an HTPC or just give the mobo to my parents. Not sure yet. Still haven't found a solution to the sound, going to buy a dedicated sound card tommorow from WalMart (Creative Live? are those crap?). and see how that goes.


----------



## Blitz6804

I have to ask the question not yet asked: have you tried reducing your HTT to 200 MHz to see if it fixes the BSOD and the sound? Have you done a CMOS clear after installing the second graphics card? A CMOS dump between ANY hardware change is a good idea in my opinion.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I have to ask the question not yet asked: have you tried reducing your HTT to 200 MHz to see if it fixes the BSOD and the sound? Have you done a CMOS clear after installing the second graphics card? A CMOS dump between ANY hardware change is a good idea in my opinion.


Actually when I first tried to power on the computer, the power button wouldn't light up, so i did about 3-4 cmos resets until it finally started. I'm at 2.45GHz right now. The HTT Link is still at 4x though. It's still crazy about the sound card. Are the Creative Sound Blaster Audigy SE's OK? I found a thread for modded drivers for it to make it have the functionality of the X-Fi's, so I'll pick one up from WalMart tommorow and if that doesn't fix it, then I'll take it back and start troubleshooting from there. I really don't know why the sound started doing this all of a sudden. And it's not just the back audio ports, it's the front ones too.

This may be where I start saving up for a new board







. Core i7 or Deneb here I come.


----------



## Hueristic

I dunno Pez, You got some weird problems today? Sound is usually all or nothing? Once in awhile interference issues but volume lowering has got to be something in the registry I would guess. Unless the sound card has multiple op-amps which I've never heard of?


----------



## pez

IDK. Well I'm going to go ahead for the sound card tommorow, and if that doesn't work, then I'll return the sound card. Then when the raptor gets here, I'll do the clean install to that and see if that does the trick. The only other thing I'm going to try tonight later on is rolling back the drivers for the sound card. The sound card had an update recently, but I would say it was a week ago at least. I'll also try connecting that extra 4 pin power connection to see if that helps too. Really didn't want to have to do that, but I guess it might be tough luck for me. Wish I didn't get all these wierd problems :/.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

pez, from the onset it sounded like perhaps the system was being fed inadequate power with SLI enabled. Plug in that molex power connector on the board with SLI, and see if that helps you out.

Driver reinstallation is also a good step to try, for both your video and audio. Also, what is the point of OCing your video cards with SLI? It's not necessary (in my opinion); it's like having a Ferrari, but driving on ice. You have all that power going to waste because you can't get adequate traction on the road.









Good luck.


----------



## Prideless

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


It certainly is Prideless. First and foremost, I would like to ask that you please provide a screenshot showing the CPU, the SPD, and the Memory tabs of CPU-Z. With that, we can see where you stand. You will also need a program like CoreTemp to ensure you keep your CPU at a safe temperature.

We can help further in future (explaining things better) but as a quick rubric to what the eventual goal will be:

1) Reduce CPU multiplier to 5x, reduce HT Link to 2x, reduce RAM to 200:100
2) Increase the HTT by 5 MHz
3) Run Orthos 30 minutes
4) If it passes, go to step 2; if it fails go to step 5
5) Subtract 10 MHz from the HTT you just tried and write that number down as "Max HTT"
6) Return HTT to 200, increase memory to 200:200
7) Increase the HTT by 5 MHz
8) Run Orthos 30 minutes
9) If it passes, go to step 7; if it fails go to step 10
10) Subtract 10 MHz from the HTT you just tried and write it down as "Max RAM"
11) Return the HTT to 200 and the RAM to 200:100, then set the CPU multiplier to its maximum (in your case, 11x)
12) Increase the HTT by 5 MHz
13) Run Orthos 30 minutes
14) If it passes, go to step 12; if it fails go to step 14
15) Subtract 10 MHz from the HTT you just tried, multiply it by the multiplier in step 11, and write it down as "Max CPU"
OPTIONAL:
16) Return the HTT to 200 and the CPU multiplier to 5x, change the HT Link to 5x
17) Increase the HTT by 5 MHz
18) Run Orthos 30 minutes
19) If it passes, go to step 16; if it fails go to step 20
20) Subtract 10 MHz from the HTT you just tried, multiply it by 5, and write it down as "Max HyperTransport"

Now we know your max CPU, max memory clock, max HyperTransport, and max HTT. If you enter those values into Gogar it will give you a good starting point for your overclock. (The boxes in Gogar correlate to step 15, step 10, step 20, and step 5 in my rubric above.)

Note, the "Max RAM" only applies for those timings. Change the timings, and you change the "Max RAM" value. Sometimes it is better to start looser and then try to tighten them down later. Note further that these all apply for the same voltages. If you increase your CPU voltage, you may increase Max CPU. If you increase your NBV or VDIMM, you may increase your Max RAM. If you increase HTV, you might increase your Max HyperTransport. Note all the mays. Voltage does not always increase the clockability.


mama mia i feel like i hit the gold mine lol. finally people who can show me the light.

anyhow here is the cpu and spd you requested.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...kenDog/CPU.jpg

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...kenDog/SPD.jpg

Thank you for spending the time and typing and providing such detailed instructions step by step just what i need.

let me know what to do next. or if i can begin your instructions. i cant wait.









btw off topic my gpu runs stock on load max at 85. is that bad? when i overclock on load max is 90. is 90 alright? i hear they can go pretty high.

and just a simple yes no question is it possible to overclock pc3200ram.

sorry for the random questions. it just seems like you know your way around the block with overclocking.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


IDK. Well I'm going to go ahead for the sound card tommorow, and if that doesn't work, then I'll return the sound card. Then when the raptor gets here, I'll do the clean install to that and see if that does the trick. The only other thing I'm going to try tonight later on is rolling back the drivers for the sound card. The sound card had an update recently, but I would say it was a week ago at least. I'll also try connecting that extra 4 pin power connection to see if that helps too. Really didn't want to have to do that, but I guess it might be tough luck for me. Wish I didn't get all these wierd problems :/.


Pez, Joe made a good point about power. The EA650W should be able to provide plenty of amperage on the 12volt rail but I'm not certain. The EA650 is only 45amps (540/12). You also have three hard drives and who knows how many fans. Sorry if I missed this alreay but did you test with just one card?

In regards to the sound issues, did you check the main volume control and "wave" volume control? I know on my barracuda sound card there are three different volume controls listed. Just a thought...

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Prideless* 
. . .

Thank you for spending the time and typing and providing such detailed instructions step by step just what i need.

let me know what to do next. or if i can begin your instructions. i cant wait.









. . .

and just a simple yes no question is it possible to overclock pc3200ram.

Those are far from detailed instructions. They are merely a quick overview as to what will be done. To make detailed instructions, I would need pictures of everything in your BIOS and a few hours of typing. I have a Gigabyte board, but mine is nForce 3. Yours is nForce 4. The two are dissimilar.

For your simple question, I have a complex yes-or-no answer: maybe. The "memory" tab can be helpful. What is nice to see is that your RAM can do DDR 400 @ 2.5-3-3-6 with only 2.5 V. If you happen to know the exact model G.Skills you have, that would be very helpful. By "overclock" you mean run faster than DDR 400 @ 2.5-3-3-6, most likely. 2.6 V might permit 2-3-3-6 or better, only experimentation can tell.

The best thing to do is get your RAM set to the exact manufacturer specifications. In the case of my Corsair RAM, it was rated for DDR 400 2-3-3-6 @ 2.75 V. I then reduced my RAM divider and worked the speed back up to DDR 400. If I want a little higher than DDR 400 (depending where my CPU wanted to be) I would loosen the timings as needed. If I came a little short, I would tighten the timings. How far your RAM goes depends mostly on the internal RAM chips, and somewhat on the processor's memory controller. Pioneerisloud was able to take my Corsair RAM up to DDR 533, even if not entirely stable.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Prideless* 
sorry for the random questions. it just seems like you know your way around the block with overclocking.

*Dies laughing.* Me, know my way around the block; sorry for laughing, but that is kinda funny from where I sit. I am still very much a fresh face compared to greats like Pioneerisloud, Poser, txtmstrjoe, and GuardianOdin. (Thlnk3r too deserves honorable mention, but the only rig I have known him with has been his golden Opty.)

I can give you a quick and dirty route on how to do things. It may not be pretty, but you should be at a speed you are happy with after 2-3, 8-hour days of work. If you want to squeeze a little more power out of your rig, txtmstrjoe is the way to go; that dude spends about a month tweaking things. We all are happy to help though.

With your CPU-Z post, I can add you to the Roster if you wish to become a member. When you get to a speed you are happy with, we can tell you how to get a validation link to make it look nice and pretty.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Thanks for the kind words Blitz.

@Prideless, Overclocking is a fresh game with every single piece of hardware we buy. While a lot of us know how to OC them, they still throw us a curve every now and again. So even old hands at this can again be new hands.

Take my PSU for example. My current OC is different than when I used the old "now dead" Ultra 600watt. My new PC P&C 750watt provides much more stability and there for I am able tweak and tighten some timings I could not before even though it's the exact same hardware.

Stable power going to the rig can make all the difference. Good luck and we'll be here to help when we can.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


pez, from the onset it sounded like perhaps the system was being fed inadequate power with SLI enabled. Plug in that molex power connector on the board with SLI, and see if that helps you out.

Driver reinstallation is also a good step to try, for both your video and audio. Also, what is the point of OCing your video cards with SLI? It's not necessary (in my opinion); it's like having a Ferrari, but driving on ice. You have all that power going to waste because you can't get adequate traction on the road.









Good luck.











Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pez, Joe made a good point about power. The EA650W should be able to provide plenty of amperage on the 12volt rail but I'm not certain. The EA650 is only 45amps (540/12). You also have three hard drives and who knows how many fans. Sorry if I missed this alreay but did you test with just one card?

In regards to the sound issues, did you check the main volume control and "wave" volume control? I know on my barracuda sound card there are three different volume controls listed. Just a thought...

Good luck










Ok, so it's not a problem with the sound, or any of my equpiment. It's a driver problem, and not a sound driver problem, a nvidia driver problem. Figures. I did a system restore thinking that it may have been a registry prob as Heuristic stated from downloading ventrilo, but it wasn't. I did a system restore (which was before the 2nd gfx card installed, and it worked fine again). As soon as Vista installed and enabled SLI for my second card and I restarted, back to crap. So now my next step is to try a different set of drivers. If a diff. set of drivers doesn't work, then I'll just buy a sound card. *sigh*. BUT, I'm thinking with any sound card it'll do the same because I'm not sure if it's just conflicting because of it being onboard, but it's really frustrating







.


----------



## Blitz6804

Do you have the newest possible nForce drivers, or only the newest GeForce? Are they the 180.xx drivers, or 179.xx?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Pez, Joe made a good point about power. The EA650W should be able to provide plenty of amperage on the 12volt rail but I'm not certain. The EA650 is only 45amps (540/12). You also have three hard drives and who knows how many fans. Sorry if I missed this alreay but did you test with just one card?

In regards to the sound issues, did you check the main volume control and "wave" volume control? I know on my barracuda sound card there are three different volume controls listed. Just a thought...

Good luck









I have to agree with you there th|nk3r.
Pez, I dont think you have enough amperge to run all that stuff. I remember when I was looking at a PSU for mine and I used a psu calculator, it specified that I needed 48A on my +12v rail. Mind you I am only running 1 dvd combo drive, 1 floppy, 1 HDD, 2 9600 GSO's, and 3 fans.
Id imagine with your setup youd need more that. Perhaps that PC power and cooling silencer 750w would be a good choice. 60A on the +12v rail. There was a special on newegg for the red one 69.99 after MIR. Damn good deal if you ask me. And there would be 2 less wires than the quad version that I got. And let me tell you, trying to tuck away all the unused wires is somewhat of a pain. Theres just so many.


----------



## pez

No, I actually tried it both ways, with and without the extra power. I even had the two cards hooked up and running before I restarted for the drivers and it was working fine for a good hour or two. I just recieved my raptor today, so I'm gonna do a quick format and then tommorow I'll do a fresh install of Vista x64 on it. I also just got home from WalMart and work, so hopefully the sound will be fixed as well. If not I'll just keep the sound card b/c it should be much better than onboard.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quick question for those of you running Vista with 2gb of memory. Do any of you notice that games are bogged down compared to running XP?
Its time for a reinstall (my computer is acting seriously buggy and for some reason I can't run windows update or install SP3) and I can't decide which OS to use. I would be using Ultimate if I go vista, as I got an evaluation copy (no time limit) from M$ a while back.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
Quick question for those of you running Vista with 2gb of memory. Do any of you notice that games are bogged down compared to running XP?
Its time for a reinstall (my computer is acting seriously buggy and for some reason I can't run windows update or install SP3) and I can't decide which OS to use. I would be using Ultimate if I go vista, as I got an evaluation copy (no time limit) from M$ a while back.

Personally, and honestly, Vista of course is a little slower than XP, but the SP1 is what really helped out a lot. Everything to me is snappy. I would actually say though that windows and programs open a bit snappier than they did on XP.

Update on my problem. I installed the sound card, which sounds much better BTW, and the sound problem is gone. So realtek ftl. Only downside is that I don't have sound from my front audio ports, but I'd rather have that than decreased sound.


----------



## Blitz6804

Pez: Does your sound card have internal headers? Many of the Creative Labs I purchased had plugs such that you can install the front-panel plugs to the sound card. (Through the use of a proprietary adapter though.)

Nate: Even with 4 GB, Vista is inherently slower than XP. Even if you turn off indexing, Aero, UAC, and a few others, Vista just feels sluggish compared to XP. My Barton @ 1x1.83 GHz with XP boots in about a quarter of the time that it takes for my Merom @ 2x2.4 GHz with Vista to boot. A 64-bit install of Vista is slightly faster than a 32-bit install most of the time. Any time you do a Windows update requiring a restart however, the 64-bit version takes much longer to power cycle.


----------



## nategr8ns

sticking with XP for now, thanks








It's such a pain to back up all of my stuff... It would be impossible without using my slave drive to hold all of my stuff.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Pez: Does your sound card have internal headers? Many of the Creative Labs I purchased had plugs such that you can install the front-panel plugs to the sound card. (Through the use of a proprietary adapter though.)

Nate: Even with 4 GB, Vista is inherently slower than XP. Even if you turn off indexing, Aero, UAC, and a few others, Vista just feels sluggish compared to XP. My Barton @ 1x1.83 GHz with XP boots in about a quarter of the time that it takes for my Merom @ 2x2.4 GHz with Vista to boot. A 64-bit install of Vista is slightly faster than a 32-bit install most of the time. Any time you do a Windows update requiring a restart however, the 64-bit version takes much longer to power cycle.


Yeah it does. Where would I find such an adaptor? The thing that connects to my mobo is like a 10 pin connection or something like that.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

For any who may be interested, my initiation into the world of water cooling (and greater fiscal irresponsibility dubiously justified as me furthering my education as a PC performance enthusiast) can be found here. Please feel free to visit and comment and watch in case something interesting happens.


----------



## Blitz6804

There is one for sale here. I admit I have seen it for cheaper on eBay. If you have the wire, you can look up the pinout and make your own.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


For any who may be interested, my initiation into the world of water cooling (and greater fiscal irresponsibility dubiously justified as me furthering my education as a PC performance enthusiast) can be found here. Please feel free to visit and comment and watch in case something interesting happens.










Been watching it


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


There is one for sale here. I admit I have seen it for cheaper on eBay. If you have the wire, you can look up the pinout and make your own.


Ah, that is like the thing on my motherboard. Good looking out blitz







.

Lol, on a diff note, I just ran 3DMark06 and my score didn't improve any at all lol. Same as in sig. Maybe I should set my monitors res to 1280x1024 for 3d mark? It's funny b/c I watched the benchy, and in the ship and dragon gpu test, I could tell a big difference, yet no improvement at all. Strange.


----------



## Blitz6804

3DMark06's default rez is 1280x1024. It should default to that on a run. If the score did not improve ANY, there may be something wrong. The change should be minor, to the tune of 9200 to about 9900.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Been watching it
























Thanks, Hue.









(See? I'm learning how to spell.







)


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Ah, that is like the thing on my motherboard. Good looking out blitz







.

Lol, on a diff note, I just ran 3DMark06 and my score didn't improve any at all lol. Same as in sig. Maybe I should set my monitors res to 1280x1024 for 3d mark? It's funny b/c I watched the benchy, and in the ship and dragon gpu test, I could tell a big difference, yet no improvement at all. Strange.

Now I have a question for you on that one:

When you first got that score, was it with one GPU? If so, was your CPU clocked higher?

When you added the second for SLI, is the CPU now clocked lower?

I ask because 3DMark should be showing SOME increase with SLI, even if its minor. However we also know that 3DMark is a very HEAVILY CPU dependant benchmark. So if you had to lower your CPU clocks when in SLI, you may have just counter-acted your gains from SLI by lowering your CPU.


----------



## Prideless

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Those are far from detailed instructions. They are merely a quick overview as to what will be done. To make detailed instructions, I would need pictures of everything in your BIOS and a few hours of typing. I have a Gigabyte board, but mine is nForce 3. Yours is nForce 4. The two are dissimilar.

...

*Dies laughing.* Me, know my way around the block; sorry for laughing, but that is kinda funny from where I sit. I am still very much a fresh face compared to greats like Pioneerisloud, Poser, txtmstrjoe, and GuardianOdin. (Thlnk3r too deserves honorable mention, but the only rig I have known him with has been his golden Opty.)

I can give you a quick and dirty route on how to do things. It may not be pretty, but you should be at a speed you are happy with after 2-3, 8-hour days of work. If you want to squeeze a little more power out of your rig, txtmstrjoe is the way to go; that dude spends about a month tweaking things. We all are happy to help though.

With your CPU-Z post, I can add you to the Roster if you wish to become a member. When you get to a speed you are happy with, we can tell you how to get a validation link to make it look nice and pretty.

Sure Id like to be a member do I need to do anything?

Man I feel like I only seen the tip of the iceberg, overclocking really that complex huh?

I was reading this article turned out to help me understand a bit more.

http://www.geekstogo.com/forum/How-t...ck-t11177.html

I hear is you increase the FSB it also overclocks everything else in your system including ram?

This is the exact ram i have.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231047

I would like to overclock it. If possible although some reviewers say it doesnt overclock well.

My Goal is to hit 2.66 Ghz on my X2 4200 and DDR533 with my ddr400. I only have a 350w psu.

So should I begin your instructions? on your first post? Ill take some biox pics in the mean time and post it here and possibly just edit this post.

EDIT: Here some bios pics.
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...g/Image179.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...g/Image178.jpg

So to get to 2.6ghz I need to clock up to 240 from 200? What is the stable temps for a processor?


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes, when you increase the HTT, you increase everything: the CPU, the RAM, the HyperTransport, et cetera. (FSB is an Intel term. AMD systems use HTT; they are essentially the same thing.) On that note, make sure if there is a PCI-slot and PCI-E slot frequency lock. Without these locks, those frequencies will also increase with the HTT.

Your RAM is right now running at 2.5 V. If we need to, you can increase that up as high as 2.75 V. The goal is always do as much as you can with as little voltage as possible however. DDR 533 might be an unrealistic goal to have at present. Always set your goals at reasonable levels so you can be sure to meet them.

2.66 GHz would be 242x11. While that motherboard should be able to handle a 242 MHz HTT, Manchesters are not so fond of speeds in excess of 2.6 GHz. Of course, in the processor roulette, you may win.

I would say it is safe to start experimenting as my rubric lays out. The goal here is doing it right the first time. Be slow and meticulous. Leave no stone unturned. I am not going to lie to you, a proper overclock can take upwards of 40 man-hours to do. Orthos, which you will require for testing, should be available on the front page. Make sure to get the dual-core one.

I will be adding you to the off-site roster momentarily. When you get to a speed you are happy with, you can get yourself a snazzy validation link. In CPU-Z, hit the "About" tab. The newest version you only need to type your name, email, check "publish online," and then hit submit. The older versions require that you save the validation file, and then upload the file to the website.


----------



## Prideless

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Yes, when you increase the HTT, you increase everything: the CPU, the RAM, the HyperTransport, et cetera. (FSB is an Intel term. AMD systems use HTT; they are essentially the same thing.) On that note, make sure if there is a PCI-slot and PCI-E slot frequency lock. Without these locks, those frequencies will also increase with the HTT.

Your RAM is right now running at 2.5 V. If we need to, you can increase that up as high as 2.75 V. The goal is always do as much as you can with as little voltage as possible however. DDR 533 might be an unrealistic goal to have at present. Always set your goals at reasonable levels so you can be sure to meet them.

2.66 GHz would be 242x11. While that motherboard should be able to handle a 242 MHz HTT, Manchesters are not so fond of speeds in excess of 2.6 GHz. Of course, in the processor roulette, you may win.

I would say it is safe to start experimenting as my rubric lays out. The goal here is doing it right the first time. Be slow and meticulous. Leave no stone unturned. I am not going to lie to you, a proper overclock can take upwards of 40 man-hours to do. Orthos, which you will require for testing, should be available on the front page. Make sure to get the dual-core one.

I will be adding you to the off-site roster momentarily. When you get to a speed you are happy with, you can get yourself a snazzy validation link. In CPU-Z, hit the "About" tab. The newest version you only need to type your name, email, check "publish online," and then hit submit. The older versions require that you save the validation file, and then upload the file to the website.


I wont be greedy ill leave ram as is.

Alright I think I am going to begin and also do more reading so I understand what exactly it is I am doing.

As for Reducing the multiplier from x11 to x5 this is located in the bios? I didnt see that option as well as the HTT multiplier option?

I did see however the power management for HTT and CPU.

When you say manchesters are not fond of excess of 2.66. What do you mean of excess? You mean higher than it or not good at that speed?

Ill take a quick look right now for the multiplier options in the bios.


----------



## pioneerisloud

What he means is that Manchester CPU's GENERALLY top out around 2.5-2.65GHz. 99% of the Manchesters that I've personally seen and heard of will not pass 2.65GHz stable. There are a few lucky ones that get them higher though, and yours may just be one of them. You never know until you find out







.


----------



## Blitz6804

Change "K8 CPU Clock Ratio" from "Default" to "5x." The HyperTransport multiplier is not visible in the pictures you posted, the option should be there somewhere. I will point out that Thlnk3r will suggest you change "Center Spread" to "Disabled" while overclocking. I personally always left it on, but I defer to his experience on other people's systems.

As to your earlier question of CPU temperatures, in CoreTemp, never permit the temperature to exceed 71Âº C. Ever. Not even for a second. (A second might not cause any damage, but I am paranoid about temperatures.) A good goal to shoot for is the low-to-middle 60s.

As for the "in excess," yes, I do mean greater than that. Most Manchesters I see run happiest around 2.5-2.6 GHz. Some do get up to 2.7 GHz or even 2.8 GHz on air cooling, but those are the exception and not the norm.


----------



## pez

Yeah, SLI is def. enabled, though I thought there would be some gain even if my CPU is underclocked by 15mhz.


----------



## Prideless

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Change "K8 CPU Clock Ratio" from "Default" to "5x." The HyperTransport multiplier is not visible in the pictures you posted, the option should be there somewhere. I will point out that Thlnk3r will suggest you change "Center Spread" to "Disabled" while overclocking. I personally always left it on, but I defer to his experience on other people's systems.

As to your earlier question of CPU temperatures, in CoreTemp, never permit the temperature to exceed 71Âº C. Ever. Not even for a second. (A second might not cause any damage, but I am paranoid about temperatures.) A good goal to shoot for is the low-to-middle 60s.

As for the "in excess," yes, I do mean greater than that. Most Manchesters I see run happiest around 2.5-2.6 GHz. Some do get up to 2.7 GHz or even 2.8 GHz on air cooling, but those are the exception and not the norm.


Okay I looked and looked I really believe my bios doesnt support it. It might be out of date? Can I update a bios?

When I boot it says GA-K8N-PRO SLI F3

Here is the update page

http://www.gigabyte.com.tw/Support/M...ProductID=1883

Do I update to f10?

I saw in a forum its easier to overclock if you have at least f6 bios.

Can I just download and install the bios? or Do I have to reformat in order to do so.

EDIT: I Apparently mistaken the bios for chipset sinces those are installed after a fresh reformat.

I have an outdated bios and I think thats why I dont see the HTT Multiplier.
Ill take a look again for the option, I dont know "how" and rather not flash my bios.

It it possible to just ramp up the mhz from 200 in 10 intervals and just run orthos to check for stability? possible increase voltage as well?

or is there usually only one "safe" overclock method?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Yeah, SLI is def. enabled, though I thought there would be some gain even if my CPU is underclocked by 15mhz.


 Pez, In order to see your SLI really working use 3dmark03. 3dm03 is almost entirely GPU based, youll notice HUGE increases from 1 card to 2.
You can also use 3dmark05, and you will still see large increases from 1 card to 2. 
And in 3dm06, I didnt notice increases until I started OCing. Obviously the higher the OC the better the score but thats more due to the clock speed and not the GPU's.


----------



## pez

Yeah, i'll try it later maybe, but I didn't see an increase at all. Like it didn't budge lol.


----------



## BlackOmega

Well I just got my DFI CFX3200 in the mail, Im putting her together as we speak. Also, got my new case Cooler Master Centurion 590 . Its actually a really nice case for $50. Granted its not as nice as my Asus Vento case but then again the CM case didnt cost $150 either. This case appears to be true modders case, it has provisions for 4 140mm and 2 120mm fans. It also has provisions for water cooling. All in all not to bad.

TxtmstrJoe, I've been doing some reading on the CFX3200 board and was recalling your plight with the ULI SATA controller. Which SATA port(s) are you using? Ports 1-4 (the ones on the right side of the board) are controlled by the ULI chip and ports 5-8 (bottom of the board) are controlled by the Silicon Image Sil 3114 chip. I was wondering if you've tried using these or not. Maybe that'll take care of your problem. Hope this helps


----------



## BlackOmega

Allright, allright, allright! CFX 3200 up and running!







Havent done any overclocking yet, Im just happy that it works!









But only one problem with this board. The guy didnt send the retention bracket for the Karjan audio module







. Does anyone know where I could get one? I suppose I could use my XFi but Id still rather have that thing attached to the board so theres not a hole in the center of my I/O shield.


----------



## Six-eyes-Sid

Can i join the appreciation club as well.

kind regards
edit found coretemp can dump a bmp pic image resolution solved


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Six-eyes-Sid*


Can i join the appreciation club as well.

kind regards
edit found coretemp can dump a bmp pic image resolution solved


WELCOME!









Im sure you can join no problem. Download CPUZ, run the validation and post the link so blitz and txtmstrjoe can add you to the list.


----------



## Six-eyes-Sid

Cheers for the warm welcome.

i ran the validation
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=471083

i hope this is right? i'm getting lost with cutting pasting pics but building a system ..no bother lol.


----------



## BlackOmega

Yep thats right







thats exactly what theyll need.

As for your rig, how come your at 12x multiplier? I thought the FX60 had an unlocked multiplier and ran natively @ 16x?
I would imagine that you could easily get past 3.0 ghz.


----------



## Six-eyes-Sid

I just wanted to hit 3ghz with a nice 1:1 ratio. If i go higher on the fsb i'll have to clock the ram down to /166.
the multi is set on 12 x250=3ghz 13x that would be an amazingly high 3.25ghz so with a 250fsb and at 4x HTT i still get 1000/2000 HTT.

Going to 13x that just not quite there for 3.25ghz. i could maybe push it too 260fsb with the ram i have but then again heat really is the issue,

Coming from the 3800+ which never had the transistor leakage the FX has i'm really unsure what temps the cpu can take.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Six-eyes-Sid, welcome to the Club!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well I just got my DFI CFX3200 in the mail, Im putting her together as we speak. Also, got my new case  Cooler Master Centurion 590 . Its actually a really nice case for $50. Granted its not as nice as my Asus Vento case but then again the CM case didnt cost $150 either. This case appears to be true modders case, it has provisions for 4 140mm and 2 120mm fans. It also has provisions for water cooling. All in all not to bad.


BlackOmega, congrats on the CFX3200! And the CM590! I actually have one of these that I haven't used yet. Funnily enough, I'm contemplating relocating my CFX3200 into it.







But I've also got another case (I can just mentally sense thlnk3r's thoughts right now: Joe, you've got waaaaaaaaay too many spares, even cases) that I can use for the CFX3200 rig.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


TxtmstrJoe, I've been doing some reading on the CFX3200 board and was recalling your plight with the ULI SATA controller. Which SATA port(s) are you using? Ports 1-4 (the ones on the right side of the board) are controlled by the ULI chip and ports 5-8 (bottom of the board) are controlled by the Silicon Image Sil 3114 chip. I was wondering if you've tried using these or not. Maybe that'll take care of your problem. Hope this helps










Thanks for the suggestion, BlackOmega. I have actually tried all the SATA ports in an attempt to get around my CFX3200's penchant for misbehaving, but have been frustrated at almost every turn. I've tried all the ULi-controlled ports, and have found that unless you run a RAID array of some sort on them, the Silicon Image SATA ports are completely useless for setting up a bootable drive on. If you go digging into the CFX3200's BIOS, you'll see that unless you've set up a RAID array, the Silicon Image controllers aren't even in the list of bootable drive options.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Six-eyes-Sid, welcome to the Club!









BlackOmega, congrats on the CFX3200! And the CM590! I actually have one of these that I haven't used yet. Funnily enough, I'm contemplating relocating my CFX3200 into it.







But I've also got another case (I can just mentally sense thlnk3r's thoughts right now: Joe, you've got waaaaaaaaay too many spares, even cases) that I can use for the CFX3200 rig.










 Lol how ironic.







......and speaking of cases, now I need another for my Asus board







actually now that I think about it, I need another PSU and HDD also








Lol I swear once I put them all together and get em up and running my wife is going to think I'm









Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Thanks for the suggestion, BlackOmega. I have actually tried all the SATA ports in an attempt to get around my CFX3200's penchant for misbehaving, but have been frustrated at almost every turn. I've tried all the ULi-controlled ports, and have found that unless you run a RAID array of some sort on them, the Silicon Image SATA ports are completely useless for setting up a bootable drive on. If you go digging into the CFX3200's BIOS, you'll see that unless you've set up a RAID array, the Silicon Image controllers aren't even in the list of bootable drive options.










 O no kidding, I havent looked around that much in the BIOS yet. For the most part it looks just like the BIOS for my other DFI board. Im using my old IDE drive and there seems to be no problems whatsoever with that. It is slower than molasses on a cold day however. And its a HUGE 40gb







:


----------



## nepas

permission to enter the club sir?









I have two 939 chips atm,a venice3500 and an opty 165(both are in mothballs,but will be brought out for the winter suicide comp)
pics and cpuz links to follow once systems are rebuilt


----------



## pioneerisloud

Looking forward to your results nepas. As soon as you get those CPUz links (or screenshots, but links are preferred), you will be added to the rosters and officially a part of the club







.


----------



## nepas

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=265432

knew i had one saved somewhere,lol


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Please welcome our newest Club member, nepas.


----------



## RamothMizpah

I posted this originally here, and a couple members suggested I should post this here because you guys are really knowledgeable and friendly so here I shall try.

Here's the link to my previous post and all the suggestions that followed: 
http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...overclock.html

Currently I have my CPU at 222MHz, 
multiplier at 11x, 
HTT multiplier at 3x
CPU Voltage at 1.40v
RAM underclocked at 266Mhz 
Timings 2.5-3-3-7, 2T
CPU temp at 32 Idle and 46 stressed

In my original post I had troubles creeping past 223Mhz with 10x multilpier @1.40v and wanted to know what my limiting factor was. As a result of that post all I did was increase my mulitplier to 11x and my Memory speed from 200Mhz to 266Mhz.

I also know that my RAM is weak and it shouldn't be mismatched (can't help that right now). It's been suggested to pull out one set, but a lot of what I do takes most of my 2GB. So there will be a trade off, all I want is to get what I can out of what I got, knowing that it won't be as much as it could because of my RAM issue.

Thanks in advance!

__________________________________________________ ___________

Here is my original post:

Hopefully this is the right place for this thread.

First off, I am completely new to overclocking, thought I'd see how far my system could go, after reading numerous times how others with similar hardware got theirs oc'd.

Second, I am not a noob with understanding computers, terminology, and risks. I have never oc'd my pc before because I was afraid my CPU would go up in smoke. After reading through the guides, I thought I'd try following it because of the small incremental steps seemed safer. That is - it would lock up before blow up. Also, my system is old and I am trying to see how much more I can get out of my system for gaming.

Thirdly, the reason for this post is because I am following a few guides (one hosted here) about overclocking AMD socket 939 PC's. They are all similar and I have been going through the process slowly and step by step, but I've seem to hit a limit with the CPU quite early than I expected. Others with the same CPU seemed to have gotten quite a bit further, but I also know there can be variances between chips of the same models. But in case I've done something wrong I thought I'd post what I have and what I've done to get others input.

So that being said, here is my hardware
CPU: AMD Athlon 64 X2 4400+ Toledo Core w Cooler Master Hyper 212 Heatsink & fan
MOBO: ASUS A8N-SLI Deluxe w BIOS 1016
RAM: 2x Corsair XMS CMX512-3200C2 for 1GB
2x Corsair Value Select VS512MB400 for 1GB
Together: 2gb and running at 400MHz with timings 2.5-3-3-7 2T
PSU: Antec 550W (forgot model)
GPU: EVGA 8800 GT (512MB)

What I've done so far.

1. Lowered RAM speed to 266MHz (lowest in BIOS)
2. Lowered HTT multiplier to 3x
3. Lowered CPU multiplier to 10x
4. Raised CPU HTT from 200 to 220 - no problems
5. Max before lock ups 223Mhz
6 Dropped to 222MHz ran prime 95 for 1 hour no errors
7. Raised voltage from AUTO to 1.35v (Max in BIOS IS 1.5v)
8. Lock up at 223 Mhz
9. Repeated stop 7 in increments of 0.125v (limited by BIOS) to 1.40v
10. Always lock up at 223 MHz

Other notes:
PCI is locked at 33Mhz
PCIe is locked at 100 Mhz
Memory voltage is at AUTO (In BIOS range is 2.6v to 3v)
This other stuff in the BIOS about PEG (not sure what it is, know it has to do with video) is all set to AUTO
CPU temp in step 6 never got above the 43
According to Everest my CPU voltage fluctuates between 1.39 and 1.42 even though it is set in BIOS (AMD driver using Dual Core Optimizer??)

It seems that I should be able to get this CPU higher than 223 from what I've read. Also, it seems that the increase in voltage has had no effect. So do you think I have a below average CPU that can't handle this or is there something else limiting this that I've overlooked. Any suggestions. Thanks in advance!


----------



## pez

Welcome nepas!


----------



## Blitz6804

Six-eyes-Sid and nepas: I will add you to the off-site roster as soon as I have a chance.

BlackOmega: I can add your Opteron 180 now, or you can wait until you get it clocked where you want and hook me up with a link. As for CoreTemp being okay for validation, we would need to ask Joe. I say it looks okay, although, I really love the CPU-Z validation link.

RamothMizpah: Deposited my 2Â¢ in your thread.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Six-eyes-Sid and nepas: I will add you to the off-site roster as soon as I have a chance.

BlackOmega: I can add your Opteron 180 now, or you can wait until you get it clocked where you want and hook me up with a link. As for CoreTemp being okay for validation, we would need to ask Joe. I say it looks okay, although, I really love the CPU-Z validation link.

RamothMizpah: Deposited my 2Â¢ in your thread.


 Hold off for now blitz, I seem to have run into an issue. Not with the CFX board but my Corsair ram. 
I had it on my Asus mobo with the opty 180, well I was watching a video that my wife and I filmed with my Flip and it all the sudden locked up.







So i go to reboot and nothing, wouldnt even POST.







Then my wife tells me that when she was filming the Flip crashed.







And since it did just update I as thinking there was some sort of bad software on it that somehow affected my rig. At any rate, I swapped my opty 165 back in pulled 1 stick of ram and 1 video card. Boots right up







Was thinking maybe my OC became unstable and fried my opty 180.







So i figured everything was ok and decided to put together my CFX board to make sure it worked. I put my opty 180 in, 1 stick of the Corsair ram, 1 9600, used the CM case and the PCPnC PSU and my IDE HDD. Everything worked fine, started right up on the first try. 
So then this afternoon, I decided to put in my other stick of Corsair and my XFi in. Well guess what no POST, and since this board has handy dandy LED error code display it shoots me a C1 code. So I hop on my wifes Crapintosh, find out its a memory error code. Well, to shorten this stroy somewhat, come to find out my catastrophic failure with my asus rig was a memory issue and not a bad OC. So now I have 1 dead stick of Corsair







sommabiscuit, yet another thing I need to RMA.


----------



## RamothMizpah

Hola,

I posted something a little bit ago in this thread because it was suggested that I do so to find answers to my issues. After reading through this thread I wonder if I have the wrong one? Do I need to be a member of the club? If not, should I stick here in this thread or stay in the one I've already started??

Thanks!


----------



## pez

Woot Vista x64 is now installed on the Raptor. Everything does seem to be a bit snappier. Ahh, I love the smell of a fresh install.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RamothMizpah*


Hola,

I posted something a little bit ago in this thread because it was suggested that I do so to find answers to my issues. After reading through this thread I wonder if I have the wrong one? Do I need to be a member of the club? If not, should I stick here in this thread or stay in the one I've already started??

Thanks!


 Youre in the right place Ram, as for your thread or using this one, either or would be fine I'd imagine.


----------



## Six-eyes-Sid

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RamothMizpah* 
I posted this originally here, and a couple members suggested I should post this here because you guys are really knowledgeable and friendly so here I shall try.

Here's the link to my previous post and all the suggestions that followed:
http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...overclock.html

Currently I have my CPU at 222MHz,
multiplier at 11x,
HTT multiplier at 3x
CPU Voltage at 1.40v
RAM underclocked at 266Mhz
Timings 2.5-3-3-7, 2T
CPU temp at 32 Idle and 46 stressed

In my original post I had troubles creeping past 223Mhz with 10x multilpier @1.40v and wanted to know what my limiting factor was. As a result of that post all I did was increase my mulitplier to 11x and my Memory speed from 200Mhz to 266Mhz.

I also know that my RAM is weak and it shouldn't be mismatched (can't help that right now). It's been suggested to pull out one set, but a lot of what I do takes most of my 2GB. So there will be a trade off, all I want is to get what I can out of what I got, knowing that it won't be as much as it could because of my RAM issue.

Thanks in advance!

__________________________________________________ ___________

Here is my original post:

Hopefully this is the right place for this thread.

First off, I am completely new to overclocking, thought I'd see how far my system could go, after reading numerous times how others with similar hardware got theirs oc'd.

Second, I am not a noob with understanding computers, terminology, and risks. I have never oc'd my pc before because I was afraid my CPU would go up in smoke. After reading through the guides, I thought I'd try following it because of the small incremental steps seemed safer. That is - it would lock up before blow up. Also, my system is old and I am trying to see how much more I can get out of my system for gaming.

Thirdly, the reason for this post is because I am following a few guides (one hosted here) about overclocking AMD socket 939 PC's. They are all similar and I have been going through the process slowly and step by step, but I've seem to hit a limit with the CPU quite early than I expected. Others with the same CPU seemed to have gotten quite a bit further, but I also know there can be variances between chips of the same models. But in case I've done something wrong I thought I'd post what I have and what I've done to get others input.

So that being said, here is my hardware
CPU: AMD Athlon 64 X2 4400+ Toledo Core w Cooler Master Hyper 212 Heatsink & fan
MOBO: ASUS A8N-SLI Deluxe w BIOS 1016
RAM: 2x Corsair XMS CMX512-3200C2 for 1GB
2x Corsair Value Select VS512MB400 for 1GB
Together: 2gb and running at 400MHz with timings 2.5-3-3-7 2T
PSU: Antec 550W (forgot model)
GPU: EVGA 8800 GT (512MB)

What I've done so far.

1. Lowered RAM speed to 266MHz (lowest in BIOS)
2. Lowered HTT multiplier to 3x
3. Lowered CPU multiplier to 10x
4. Raised CPU HTT from 200 to 220 - no problems
5. Max before lock ups 223Mhz
6 Dropped to 222MHz ran prime 95 for 1 hour no errors
7. Raised voltage from AUTO to 1.35v (Max in BIOS IS 1.5v)
8. Lock up at 223 Mhz
9. Repeated stop 7 in increments of 0.125v (limited by BIOS) to 1.40v
10. Always lock up at 223 MHz

Other notes:
PCI is locked at 33Mhz
PCIe is locked at 100 Mhz
Memory voltage is at AUTO (In BIOS range is 2.6v to 3v)
This other stuff in the BIOS about PEG (not sure what it is, know it has to do with video) is all set to AUTO
CPU temp in step 6 never got above the 43
According to Everest my CPU voltage fluctuates between 1.39 and 1.42 even though it is set in BIOS (AMD driver using Dual Core Optimizer??)

It seems that I should be able to get this CPU higher than 223 from what I've read. Also, it seems that the increase in voltage has had no effect. So do you think I have a below average CPU that can't handle this or is there something else limiting this that I've overlooked. Any suggestions. Thanks in advance!


Set the top PEG LINK MODE too disabled, the lower two to auto. PEG link mode automatically increases your GPU's speed 5,10,15% for auto overclocking. it'sa not needed if you use something like rivatuner or atitray tools whatever.

SET the memory volatage too 2.75v not auto sometimes it read's the wrong voltage, better to specify when overclocking so you know what setting your testing.

AND remove those 2 value select peices of garbage it's holding you back i think, matching value ram with some super fast corsair don't work.

I have 2x xms3500ll pro i purchased 2x muchkin xp4000 1gb sticks rated 500mhz and presumed they would work fine. I got all sorts of issues running mismatched ram you really can't OC stabily with that mismatched ram IMHO Pull them and test.

hope my sugestions help a little

ps your memory timings try cas 3 4 4 8 16 18 2T on the corsair i don't know what rtating the value select is but at 223fsb i doubt it can hold a cas 2.5 setting the corsair MIGHT lkoosen your memory timings try the settings i suggest they work for the 3500 LL pro modules when overclocked to fsb 250


----------



## nategr8ns

pez, I'm still getting ready to do my install (making sure I don't forget to back something important up). I will probably wait until the last day of vacation to do the install in case it doesn't go according to plan and I won't feel lost without a computer.
Still can't decide between sticking with XP and going Vista :\\.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


pez, I'm still getting ready to do my install (making sure I don't forget to back something important up). I will probably wait until the last day of vacation to do the install in case it doesn't go according to plan and I won't feel lost without a computer.
Still can't decide between sticking with XP and going Vista :.


Your rig is more than capable of Vista. IMO I don't see an excuse to stay with XP.


----------



## TestECull

Run Vista. It's not all that taxing. Single core + 1gb Ram + X800 = Vista capable.

Also, PSU #2 is down. Apparently, drawing 520W from a 680W PSU is too much. It overheated, and it's fubar. Here's hoping Pio's Apevia is a bit tougher









Atleast it went quietly...


----------



## majakone

Hope everyone had a safe and happy holiday just back from a trip to michigan ..... Now to jump in the o/c/competition


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


Run Vista. It's not all that taxing. Single core + 1gb Ram + X800 = Vista capable.

Also, PSU #2 is down. Apparently, drawing 520W from a 680W PSU is too much. It overheated, and it's fubar. Here's hoping Pio's Apevia is a bit tougher









Atleast it went quietly...


Lol, apevia isn't exactly known for quality PSU's, which is why it's hard to sell mine as well.

Oh, and I'm back up to 2.5 since the reinstall. Ah the drive is a bit noisy, but no complaints b/c of the speed it gives.


----------



## farmboy30

I would like to join, as I want to compete in the suicide contest!!! All I've got is the 3000+ stock at 1.8 GHz, but can't wait to give it a try...


----------



## Blitz6804

All we need form you is a CPU-Z validation of some flavor. The best method is a validation link, but a screenshot is permissible.


----------



## farmboy30

ok great, i'll get at it when I get back from xmas break


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Lol, apevia isn't exactly known for quality PSU's, which is why it's hard to sell mine as well.

Oh, and I'm back up to 2.5 since the reinstall. Ah the drive is a bit noisy, but no complaints b/c of the speed it gives.



lol


----------



## Six-eyes-Sid

err no good for me.. i opened the case to remove the cpu and nb blocks and realized i'd have to completely pull it apart just to get an aircooler on it(remounting cpufan retainer) so i'll wait for a waterclock comp.

Good luck all those who are brave enough to try. 
The well appreciated! 939's in all there glory lets cook eggs. fry baby fry


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


lol


Haha...what?


----------



## pioneerisloud

We found the problem to Froggy's rig. As it turns out, her cathode switch wires were shorting on the motherboard tray and to themselves. So we just clipped them off, and all is functioning properly again. While we were at it, we replaced her motherboard with the A8N32-SLI Deluxe. Seems she may have some NICE suicide runs. She can POST no problems AT ALL at 3.1GHz. We'll see what we can wrastle stable though...still have temp issues.


----------



## nategr8ns

^ there goes my chance at first place







.
Not that I really need the memory. I would be happier with the CPU







.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
We found the problem to Froggy's rig. As it turns out, her cathode switch wires were shorting on the motherboard tray and to themselves. So we just clipped them off, and all is functioning properly again. While we were at it, we replaced her motherboard with the A8N32-SLI Deluxe. Seems she may have some NICE suicide runs. She can POST no problems AT ALL at 3.1GHz. We'll see what we can wrastle stable though...still have temp issues.


Which CPU is she using?


----------



## pioneerisloud

She is still on her Opteron 170 LCB9E. Currently, its clocked to 2.7GHz, 1.36v. And with [email protected] 3-4-4-8-1T timings (2.80v). Its not doing too badly in her new motherboard either







.


----------



## nategr8ns

I'll give you guys a little hint on my entry into the contest...
I had to use over 1.5v


----------



## Six-eyes-Sid

pump 3v into it it's a suicide comp.


----------



## nategr8ns

well yeah but I still need my processor


----------



## Six-eyes-Sid

could have kept it cool by submerging it in the bath







but i see watercooling isn't allowed.

ok 1.5v+ will have to do then..


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
I'll give you guys a little hint on my entry into the contest...
I had to use over 1.5v
















Nate, no worries there buddy. I did a suicide run with my 3600+ at 1.7volts. Still alive and kicking









Good luck


----------



## nepas

1.55 is the highest I have gone so far with my 3500,whats the highest these chips can take(been a long time since I messed with AMD)


----------



## TestECull

I used 1.65V through a Venice core for two weeks straight, on air, and that chip still lives to this day. I did let it get too warm, it no longer has any OC capabilities, but it works just fine at stock.


----------



## Blitz6804

I shot 1.80 V through my Toledo in hopes of entering the 1 GHz club. It would not oblige. The best I did was 285x11 = 3135. Anything higher than 286, regardless of RAM, timings, voltages, et cetera, would not POST.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nepas*


whats the highest these chips can take(been a long time since I messed with AMD)


Nepas, on average you'll see 70C being the limit but some here have taken their S939's farther then that. My Opteron 170 is not happy above 64C. I usually get freezes/lockups around that temperature.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Six-eyes-Sid and nepas: you are now official off-site roster residents!


----------



## nepas

many thanks


----------



## The_Gamer294

Count me in guys: http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=472818


----------



## mudd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nepas* 
1.55 is the highest I have gone so far with my 3500,whats the highest these chips can take(been a long time since I messed with AMD)

depending on your stepping is how much power it can take i've found out. i forgot my stepping back when i had my 3500, but i got it to 2.8 GHz @ 1.7v. temps were fine, and the processor ran like a champ. i actually ran prime on it for 8 hours and it worked like a champ.

somebody on this forum has my 3500 venice processor


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The_Gamer294* 
Count me in guys: http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=472818

The_Gamer294, welcome to the club









I've added you to the roster.


----------



## The_Gamer294

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
The_Gamer294, welcome to the club









I've added you to the roster.









Thanks thlnk3r


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The_Gamer294*









Thanks thlnk3r


The_Gamer294, I just noticed you're sporting a Abit KN8 series motherboard. My brother has one of these (correction, he has a AN8) and I must say, the BIOS is very nice. The board has so many sensors on it. Pretty awesome.

What is the max HTT (reference clock) you were able to achieve with this board?

Good luck


----------



## The_Gamer294

It doesn't seem to like going much over 1000MHz :\\ I think I got maybe 1100 out of it


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The_Gamer294*


It doesn't seem to like going much over 1000MHz : I think I got maybe 1100 out of it


The_Gamer294, I'm referring to the reference clock or FSB (HTT). Hypertransport would be HT


----------



## The_Gamer294

Oh, rofl, misread

The max I went to was 333MHz, I got ballsy and tried 350 but it didn't post.


----------



## BlackOmega

Did you try upping the chipset voltage at all?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

The_Gamer294, those Abit KN8s are beasts.







I've got a KN8 SLI, and it was able to go to about 350MHz on its reference clock (HTT Clock/"FSB"). Pretty awesome for a non-DFI motherboard, I'd say.


----------



## mudd

I liked my MSI Neo4 motherboard. i hit 350 HTT with it. i've always been an MSI fan though.

maybe when i build my next rig i'll get another MSI board to tinker with. it was always fun and pretty forgiving. i remember i thought i blew it up once, so i left it off for a week and booted like a champ. ( i ran max chipset voltage for grins )


----------



## nategr8ns

I don't like their customer support.
But my faulty motherboard components magically fixed themselves, so I guess I can't complain so much.


----------



## The_Gamer294

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Did you try upping the chipset voltage at all?


Not yet, I don't want to fry it, still on stock cooling. I ordered a new cooler though.


----------



## madblazer

count me in, amd 64 athlon 3000+ at 2.1ghz, how do i get more im just using fuzzy overclocking. and how do i post the cpuz without linkage to a housting site.


----------



## madblazer

couldnt reboot at 2.1 so had bump it down to 2.0ghz

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=472974


----------



## nepas

link not working for me









you could always press print screen then save that image in paint and upload it here(manage attachments)


----------



## Hueristic

working for me


----------



## madblazer

is this good
[img=http://img114.imageshack.us/img114/1354/88323500rj4.th.png]


----------



## pez

Random question guys, but do you guys think it'll be finally worth upgrading when AM3 comes out? If not, I may just go i7 within the next year.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *madblazer* 
couldnt reboot at 2.1 so had bump it down to 2.0ghz

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=472974

Try lowering you RAM divider. You want it as low as possible. when trying to OC the CPU. At least dont let it get above 200 mhz.
You should be able to get higher than that.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

madblazer, welcome to the Socket 939 Appreciation Club!







Glad to have you onboard!


----------



## nepas

Quote:



Originally Posted by *madblazer*


couldnt reboot at 2.1 so had bump it down to 2.0ghz

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=472974


have just noticed that is a VIA chipset,iirc they are terrible overclockers,if I am wrong then someone will correct me

good luck mate


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nepas*


have just noticed that is a VIA chipset,iirc they are terrible overclockers,if I am wrong then someone will correct me

good luck mate










Really depends on the chipset, But as a rule Via is just barely above Sis on the chipset front.







which isn't saying much!


----------



## Six-eyes-Sid

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Six-eyes-Sid and nepas: you are now official off-site roster residents!


cheers mate!


----------



## TestECull

90 Nanometers of Glory is alive again! I'm running a ThermalTake PurePower 500, the Apevia I bought from Pio is going to land in my mom's comp.

Ironically, the first thing that came out of it's speakers was "Indestructable", by Disturbed. Hrm...maybe it's trying to tell me something...


----------



## nepas

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 

Ironically, the first thing that came out of it's speakers was "Indestructable", by Disturbed. Hrm...maybe it's trying to tell me something...


----------



## thlnk3r

Madblazer, welcome to the club









Quote:


Originally Posted by *The_Gamer294* 
Not yet, I don't want to fry it, still on stock cooling. I ordered a new cooler though.

The_Gamer294, I wouldn't worry to much on "frying" the nForce 4 chipset. It can easily handle temps higher then 50C. Try bumping it up a notch and see what happens. As long as you have sufficient airflow in your case then you should be fine.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Random question guys, but do you guys think it'll be finally worth upgrading when AM3 comes out? If not, I may just go i7 within the next year.

Pez, only time will tell. I believe the Phenom II quad comes stock at 3Ghz. So users are drooling over that. The question I have is....how far can those be overclocked









Good luck


----------



## TestECull

pez: From what I've read, 4.4GHz on high-end air/water isn't out of the question for Denebs, and they're much cheaper than i7 when you factor in platform and the like.


----------



## Blitz6804

It is rumored the Phenom II will do over 5 GHz on dry ice, over 6 GHz on LN2...

Now, the question is: how is air?

madblazer: The image works after a refresh or two. Might I suggest adding your system to your signature so the whole world knows you are rocking the good stuff?

The_Gamer294 and madblazer: I will add you to the off-site roster sometime tomorrow.


----------



## Six-eyes-Sid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Really depends on the chipset, But as a rule Via is just barely above Sis on the chipset front.







which isn't saying much!










What about ALI? do they still make chips.. does anyone remember them and there chipsets?

Does anyone think 44c @ 3ghz fx-60 running a d5 pump(swiftech) and Danger Den waterblocks cooling the cpu and northbridge..breathe...and a 120 and 240 radiator with good fans...breathe... to high a temperture?

something i fears not right with those temps my old 3800+ ran at about 24c.

edit: temp is idle 44c hits 55c -58c on load


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


It is rumored the Phenom II will do over 5 GHz on dry ice, over 6 GHz on LN2...

Now, the question is: how is air?



4.0-4.4ghz region. Between there and 5.0 is Water's turf.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes Six-eyes-Sid, that is a fuzz warm. My Toledo on air cooling did not pass 57Âº C on air when running at 3.0 GHz. I would double-check that you have the block fully tightened and that the pump is outputting the proper flow rate. If the 3800+ (I presume X2*) ran at 24Âº C, you would expect the FX-60 to be no more than 30Âº C for the same condition.

As to chipsets, SiS is grossly underrated. I seem to recall we had a 2.8 GHz SiS in here, I could be wrong. Joe, back me up? VIA is usually the worst clocking chipset.

EDIT: I was toying with a notion, I want people's opinions: what say you to me adding motherboards to the offsite roster? That is, the link would say (in my case): "Athlon64 X2 4400+ Toledo @ 2800 MHz on an Abit AT8-32x." </EDIT>

*If the 3800+ is not an X2, expect the FX-60 to be more like 40Âº C. That would be high for an idle, a little sub-par for a load.


----------



## Blitz6804

Found the SiS in the club. The Master Chief has his San Diego at 2738 MHz on his SiS 756. (Asus A8S-X)


----------



## Six-eyes-Sid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Yes Six-eyes-Sid, that is a fuzz warm. My Toledo on air cooling did not pass 57Âº C on air when running at 3.0 GHz. I would double-check that you have the block fully tightened and that the pump is outputting the proper flow rate. If the 3800+ (I presume X2*) ran at 24Âº C, you would expect the FX-60 to be no more than 30Âº C for the same condition.

As to chipsets, SiS is grossly underrated. I seem to recall we had a 2.8 GHz SiS in here, I could be wrong. Joe, back me up? VIA is usually the worst clocking chipset.

EDIT: I was toying with a notion, I want people's opinions: what say you to me adding motherboards to the offsite roster? That is, the link would say (in my case): "Athlon64 X2 4400+ Toledo @ 2800 MHz on an Abit AT8-32x." </EDIT>

*If the 3800+ is not an X2, expect the FX-60 to be more like 40Âº C. That would be high for an idle, a little sub-par for a load.



Much obliged







my pumps flowing like mad ciculation isn't the issue i'm pretty sure i know the issue ,routing the outlet from the NB between my sli cards(and the NB being between the sli cards) is the issue. Without going on time for a watercooling rethink.


----------



## Blitz6804

Wait, so the water leaves the NB, goes past the SLI, and then into the CPU? That is a little... odd. I would think the best route would be:

240 Rad => CPU => 120 Rad => NB => Rez => Pump => repeat

Granted, I have never water cooled, although I have always wanted to.

(I was under the impression it is always best to have your biggest radiator straight off the pump and your biggest radiator prior to the hottest component.)


----------



## Six-eyes-Sid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Wait, so the water leaves the NB, goes past the SLI, and then into the CPU? That is a little... odd. I would think the best route would be:

240 Rad => CPU => 120 Rad => NB => Rez => Pump => repeat

Granted, I have never water cooled, although I have always wanted to.

(I was under the impression it is always best to have your biggest radiator straight off the pump and your biggest radiator prior to the hottest component.)



No no no no.. pump cpublock 120 NB 240 reservour pump

edit: yes biggest rad is at the front or before the cpu block depends how it's looked at the 120 basically gives it a little cooling before the nb.

and somethings all a twist i definitly had a bad cpu block connection and didn't reroute. When i re did the NB block it would not post and i had to slacken the nuts off till she would..obviously overtightened.

But i got a heap o trouble to sort out looks like tommorows taken up on a rebuild.


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


EDIT: I was toying with a notion, I want people's opinions: what say you to me adding motherboards to the offsite roster? That is, the link would say (in my case): "Athlon64 X2 4400+ Toledo @ 2800 MHz on an Abit AT8-32x." </EDIT>

*If the 3800+ is not an X2, expect the FX-60 to be more like 40Âº C. That would be high for an idle, a little sub-par for a load.



Sounds like a good idea to me!


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Madblazer, welcome to the club









The_Gamer294, I wouldn't worry to much on "frying" the nForce 4 chipset. It can easily handle temps higher then 50C. Try bumping it up a notch and see what happens. As long as you have sufficient airflow in your case then you should be fine.

Pez, only time will tell. I believe the Phenom II quad comes stock at 3Ghz. So users are drooling over that. The question I have is....how far can those be overclocked









Good luck



Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*











pez: From what I've read, 4.4GHz on high-end air/water isn't out of the question for Denebs, and they're much cheaper than i7 when you factor in platform and the like.


Yeah, this all seems nice, but my biggest concern is going to fall into the factor of: Is AMD going f up and not make SLI/Crossfire boards like Intel. If not, that'll be the biggest thing to make me switch Intel. I understand AMD stuff has been cheaper then Intel, but it's because of reasons like that.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Six-eyes-Sid* 
What about ALI? do they still make chips.. does anyone remember them and there chipsets?

ALI > ULI > Nvidia is a special case.
ALI is usually:turd: below even Sis, ULI is good and nvidia buried them.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Found the SiS in the club. The Master Chief has his San Diego at 2738 MHz on his SiS 756. (Asus A8S-X)

There is exceptions to every rule.









As promised!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Yeah, this all seems nice, but my biggest concern is going to fall into the factor of: Is AMD going f**k up and not make SLI/Crossfire boards like Intel. If not, that'll be the biggest thing to make me switch Intel. I understand AMD stuff has been cheaper then Intel, but it's because of reasons like that.


It's impossible to predict how good AM3/Phenom II is going to be at overclocking at the moment. I'm aware of all the exciting reports being leaked into the press, but I always try to carefully maintain my own personal enthusiasm; who knows if these are just cherry-picked parts, or even if these leaked reports are even genuine?

Besides, it's foolish to buy anything right when it first comes to market. (I say this knowing full well I did just that when the HD 4870 came out, so I freely acknowledge how hypocritical that might seem to some. It was a moment of unbridled impulse buying on my part.) Later iterations of products are almost always much better than first issues.

(I'd rather not be an "unpaid beta tester" of any new product line.







)

As far as chipset availability, I think that neither ATi nor nVidia can seriously afford to alienate either of the major platforms. As long as they both have their exclusive and proprietary multi-GPU solutions, they will continue to cater to both AMD and Intel.

Whether or not AMD would do a board that supports both Crossfire and SLI a la "Skulltrail," though, is easier to consider: I don't think AMD would, simply because they own the Crossfire technology. Think about it: Intel only buys licensing to use Crossfire and SLI. AMD cannot sanction anything that would support a direct competitor so overtly.


----------



## Hueristic

Guess no-one likes my Ghetto ATX/AT PS?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


4.0-4.4ghz region. Between there and 5.0 is Water's turf.


TestECul, this is also purely speculation. I won't believe any of those "overclocks" until I see them here on OCN. For all we know those processors were cherry picked.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Guess no-one likes my Ghetto ATX/AT PS?


Hueristic, do you have any detailed shots of this mod?

Good luck


----------



## StormX2

man I am bored.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
TestECul, this is also purely speculation. I won't believe any of those "overclocks" until I see them here on OCN. For all we know those processors were cherry picked.

Yeah and without a release Bios it's really not worth debating yet.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Hueristic, do you have any detailed shots of this mod?

No I just pulled out the soldering Iron and ran the AC input from the ATX to the AT. I may put a relay in as the AT powers up when the ATX in plugged in. But I'm a little overwelmed with project lately. I don't have a camera so I can't upload alot of pics. That pic was taken with my nephews phone. It just so happens the Heatsinks on the VRM's line up on both PS's so I used that to hook them together. One Fan going across the 2 of them should keep them cooled. I'll do that is I mod an enclosure for them. Basically just took 2 250 watt Ps's and made 1. I'll rip apart the blown up one soon and fix it. I don't want to spend too much time on it as I plan one makeing a PS that can handle 7 boards and 28 GPU's for a folding rack/Heater Case I'm thinking of makeing from a furnace.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *StormX2* 
man I am bored.

THEN get some entries in!!!!!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *StormX2* 
man I am bored.

Storm, have you checked out the S939 Winter Overclocking Contest? If you're bored then this would be a perfect time to start OC'ing









Good luck


----------



## StormX2

I did post there

I am not entering, since it would be a waiste for me and my stock cooler =)

Plus I am at work and still have not foudn the time to even tweak my memory, and that was like 2 months ago we were talking about that!


----------



## nategr8ns

hue I'm not really sure what's going on in that pic


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *StormX2* 
I did post there

I am not entering, since it would be a waiste for me and my stock cooler =)

Plus I am at work and still have not foudn the time to even tweak my memory, and that was like 2 months ago we were talking about that!

Grab a piece of paper and design something to do when you get home!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
hue I'm not really sure what's going on in that pic








































You should have seen it when my buddie came by crocked and fell on it! I didn't skip a beat and the PPD keeps rolling out!


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *StormX2* 
I am not entering, since it would be a waiste for me and my stock cooler =)

It need not remain stock... do I hear a lap job, Ã¼ber-awesome TIM, a high CFM fan, and some fancy duct work?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
EDIT: I was toying with a notion, I want people's opinions: what say you to me adding motherboards to the offsite roster? That is, the link would say (in my case): "Athlon64 X2 4400+ Toledo @ 2800 MHz on an Abit AT8-32x." </EDIT>

So far, I only have one response on my Roster suggestion (TestECull)... anyone else?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Blitz:
If there is room to do so, and you are up to the work load....then I say go for it







. It might prove to be quite useful when somebody is looking for others that clock with the same mobo








. Good idea.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Blitzer, my friend, you are a glutton for punishment.









I like the idea (I considered it, actually, for the in-thread roster, but realized that's a ton of work LOL). Perhaps I shall have to post entries for ALL the motherboards I have at my disposal now...


----------



## Blitz6804

It would be impossible for you to do Joe... that post cannot take anymore characters!

I gotta get around to streamlining the post while I am thinking about it. Shoot me an IM if you are on and I will get started on it.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


So far, I only have one response on my Roster suggestion (TestECull)... anyone else?


Blitz, go for it. It would be more work for you but it sounds like you have time on your hands









Maybe including the Vcore value would be useful too?

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, go for it. It would be more work for you but it sounds like you have time on your hands









Maybe including the Vcore value would be useful too?

Good luck


 I agree, I think the mobo and vcore info would be very useful for someone trying to get the most out of their rig. And maybe, you could even put air or H2O.
Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

vCore is an issue. Most people use CPU-Z links, not screenshots, so that information is lacking. Air/H2O is stressed for any and all computers clocked higher than 3.1 GHz.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


vCore is an issue. Most people use CPU-Z links, not screenshots, so that information is lacking.


Blitz, good point. CPU-Z can be a little buggy when it comes to that.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *madblazer* 
couldnt reboot at 2.1 so had bump it down to 2.0ghz
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=472974

As BlackOmega mentioned, it might be your RAM. Try lower speeds.
You should probably lower your HT multiplier as well.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *nepas* 
have just noticed that is a VIA chipset,iirc they are terrible overclockers,if I am wrong then someone will correct me

I don't know anything about VIA chipsets in general, except all the bad stuff I hear around here of course







, but the K8T800Pro(which is what madblazer has) seems to be alright, that is at least it does alright on the A8V Deluxe.
I won't say how madblazer's motherboard will do though, since a capable chipset alone won't do much good if something else isn't up to the job.


----------



## Blitz6804

The K8T800Pro found in the A8V-X does not overclock well at all. The Deluxe is what makes the difference.


----------



## Hueristic

Well another good one for u guys! My buddy just stopped by and he had his camera on him so I opened up the Ps for a pic and Boom! I grounded something out while he was getting the shot! LOL, I'm too lazy to shut the thing down to get a pic! Well anyway I disconnected power and checked fuses and let it sit for a few minutes while we brought some wood in and WALLA, It got better! LOL I got lucky.


----------



## Blitz6804

OUCH! Glad to hear you did not kill it.

For the record, if anyone checks the off-site roster today, you will notice it looks a little... odd. I am going from the top down. Where you see the stack of pretty colors, the systems are done. Where you see drab colors, they are in-progress. As of me tying this, I am done through Thlnk3r. I guess that means I do not have very much done at all.

The_Gamer/madblazer: I am adding you right now. You will appear the next time I reupload.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


The K8T800Pro found in the A8V-X does not overclock well at all. The Deluxe is what makes the difference.


Blitz, it's also probably the fact that most of the VIA chipsets do not allow locking of the PCI bus. My GA-K8M800M-RH was a dud because of this


----------



## Blitz6804

The A8V-X does have such a lock. However, given the poor voltage controls, it was hard to do anything with. Any HTT higher than 220 caused it being incapable of POSTing. The Deluxe can control both chipset and CPU voltage if I recall correctly.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


OUCH! Glad to hear you did not kill it.

For the record, if anyone checks the off-site roster today, you will notice it looks a little... odd. I am going from the top down. Where you see the stack of pretty colors, the systems are done. Where you see drab colors, they are in-progress. As of me tying this, I am done through Thlnk3r.

The_Gamer/madblazer: I am adding you right now. You will appear the next time I reupload.


I'm gueesing you mean with the grey background it is work in progress? Looks good btw. But the color codes Rock. Makes it easy for me to see all the same chips as mine and really shows up my *FAIL* OC!
















Quote:



I guess that means I do not have very much done at all.


----------



## nepas

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Any HTT higher than 220 caused it being incapable of POSTing.


that sounds just like my Winfast board(which is a 6150)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


The A8V-X does have such a lock.


Blitz, the K8T800Pro is the only VIA chipset to my knowledge to have that option available. I can't recall the thread but I remember a few Biostar users that had the K8T800Pro chipset had troubles keeping the "lock" to save within the BIOS. So who really knows. I never liked VIA because of this particular issue.

Good luck


----------



## StormX2

ok i need you guys to make me a recomendation.

I think, if possible, if I want to giv emyself beter performance on my game, I thinks I need more ram.

it is also possible, my rep from transcend may be sending me some sweet ram .

Though I do't actually knwo what they are yet, he said they are in the mail.

I landed them a 40k SSD Deal =)~

I wodner what they will be =?

But lets say this ram he sends me is in no way usefull for me, i sell em, and I decide to NOT build a new rig

what should I do to get better MMO performance, since everything else is stellar on this 939 rig.


----------



## nategr8ns

lol blitz, two entries done








while you're at it, do you mind updating my entry with my suicide run posted in the winter suicides thread?
Storm, you have an inside guy at transcend?
I don't read this thread enough anymore :\\


----------



## mudd

after thinkin about it, i think tonight i'm gonna go all out. i need updated screenshots anyways









3.2 GHz and gonna go ahead and overclock the piss out of my x1950xt







hopefully i'll be able to run 3dmark 2k6 all the way through.


----------



## BlackOmega

Good luck with that mudd.

Hey do any of youz guyz know where I can get a Karajan bracket? Karajan module is the DFI onboard sound module. My CFX board didnt come with one







.

Also, what would be 2 cheap ATi cards to xfire? Preferably under $100 for both. Let me know, I dying to try out crossfire of this thing.
Thanx,


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
It's impossible to predict how good AM3/Phenom II is going to be at overclocking at the moment. I'm aware of all the exciting reports being leaked into the press, but I always try to carefully maintain my own personal enthusiasm; who knows if these are just cherry-picked parts, or even if these leaked reports are even genuine?

Besides, it's foolish to buy anything right when it first comes to market. (I say this knowing full well I did just that when the HD 4870 came out, so I freely acknowledge how hypocritical that might seem to some. It was a moment of unbridled impulse buying on my part.) Later iterations of products are almost always much better than first issues.

(I'd rather not be an "unpaid beta tester" of any new product line.







)

As far as chipset availability, I think that neither ATi nor nVidia can seriously afford to alienate either of the major platforms. As long as they both have their exclusive and proprietary multi-GPU solutions, they will continue to cater to both AMD and Intel.

Whether or not AMD would do a board that supports both Crossfire and SLI a la "Skulltrail," though, is easier to consider: I don't think AMD would, simply because they own the Crossfire technology. Think about it: Intel only buys licensing to use Crossfire and SLI. AMD cannot sanction anything that would support a direct competitor so overtly.

Yeah, idk, that will just be MY deciding factor, though it'd be rather dissapointing if they didin't







. Another random question, but I'm thinking of ordering a new case within the next few days, and I think I've finally settled for a Cooler Master 590 (no 690 b/c I've seen that the HDD bays constrict airflow). Any thoughts on this? I need better cable management than my current case, and it seems to do just that.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Good luck with that mudd.

Hey do any of youz guyz know where I can get a Karajan bracket? Karajan module is the DFI onboard sound module. My CFX board didnt come with one







.

Also, what would be 2 cheap ATi cards to xfire? Preferably under $100 for both. Let me know, I dying to try out crossfire of this thing.
Thanx,









I didn't know there were brackets for it








You mean the little plastic boxy thing that sits on the motherboard and the Karajan fits into?


----------



## StormX2

Can I get some Silence here?

I just got home from work

and there in my Mailbox are 2 sets of 2x1 gb DDR3 1600 mhz Transcend aXeram..

I crapped myself..


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Good luck with that mudd.

Hey do any of youz guyz know where I can get a Karajan bracket? Karajan module is the DFI onboard sound module. My CFX board didnt come with one







.

Also, what would be 2 cheap ATi cards to xfire? Preferably under $100 for both. Let me know, I dying to try out crossfire of this thing.
Thanx,









BlackOmega, my DFI SLI-DR never came with a bracket for the Karajan sound card. Are you sure it did?

In regards to your Crossfire question, here is a 3870 from Powercolor that may fit your budget: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814131095. Any reason why you are wanting to go Crossfire and instead just purchase one single powerful card?

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Also, what would be 2 cheap ATi cards to xfire? Preferably under $100 for both. Let me know, I dying to try out crossfire of this thing.

A pair of HD 3850s cost around $100 from Newegg usually. Being the owner of a pair myself, I will tell you that performance is between one 8800 GT G92 512 MB and one 8800 GTS G92 512 MB. In my case, I have problems with stability; full-screen + AA = failure. But that is a motherboard issue likely.

I could always sell you mine if you want...


----------



## StormX2

are the Phenom 2 Chips commign out as Trichannel memory or Normal with DDR3?


----------



## Blitz6804

Right now, tri-channel is a Core i7 exclusive.

EDIT: And I forgot to say, roster is done through officers.


----------



## StormX2

ah.. Trying to decide what to do with this sweet ram..


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *StormX2*


ah.. Trying to decide what to do with this sweet ram..


Sell it, Everything I've read states there is no noticeable difference because of the on die mem controller so it's a waste of money.


----------



## Blitz6804

Build a Phenom II? Phenom IIs can use DDR3 1600. (Just, in dual-channel and not tri-channel.)

From what I understand, you can use DDR2 and DDR3 in an AM3 motherboard with an AM3 processor. You can only use DDR2 with an AM3 processor in an AM2 motherboard. (I think it has something to do with divider and voltage changes more than anything else. If this is the case, a BIOS fix/hack may remove this limitation.)


----------



## pez

Oh, my rig is back up to 2.55Ghz. I just upped the vcore. Surprisingly, my gfx cards decided to tell me my OC (700/1750/1005) was unstable by the display freezing. At first I thought my computer was freezing, but no, it was just the display. 680/****/980 has been fine.


----------



## Six-eyes-Sid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Good luck with that mudd.

Hey do any of youz guyz know where I can get a Karajan bracket? Karajan module is the DFI onboard sound module. My CFX board didnt come with one







.

Also, what would be 2 cheap ATi cards to xfire? Preferably under $100 for both. Let me know, I dying to try out crossfire of this thing. 
Thanx,










found one here cheap as.. shipping might cost a bit..

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/List...x?id=194686120


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *StormX2*


Can I get some Silence here?

I just got home from work

and there in my Mailbox are 2 sets of 2x1 gb DDR3 1600 mhz Transcend aXeram..

I crapped myself..


Woah...
I would personally sell it and get 2x2gb if you plan on upgrading your rig to a phenom. DDR3 is not worth it IMO.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Six-eyes-Sid*


found one here cheap as.. shipping might cost a bit..

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/List...x?id=194686120


Six-eyes-Sid, for that price it wouldn't hurt to grab it and see if you can get it working. If the BIOS is corrupt then you could always order a new BIOS or even try hot flashing it. If it has damaged components like a bulged capacitor then that can be fixed as well.

Good luck


----------



## pez

Well a small update. My 3dmark06 score jumped to 9721. This is after the reformat and of course my CPU at 2.55ghz. So it jumped about 800 points from 2.4ghz at 8900 to 2.55ghz at 9700. This is yet another obvious result that 3dmark06 is CPU based. I'll run my cards at a higher oc real quick (700/1750/1005) to see if I can break 10k. Not likely, but worth a try.

Note: 3dmark06 score is w/ on 9800gt oc'ed to 700/1750/1005 on 2.55ghz.

EDIT: W/ that OC, 9754. Getting owned by my CPU ftw. It doesn't matter so much to me though b/c I see the difference in games.


----------



## nategr8ns

nice!
2.6 should get you to the 10k mark


----------



## Blitz6804

It could, but Pez's CPU is more stubborn than the average mother-in-law. Maybe Joe can get him hooked up with an Opteron 170? The difference from a half-gig to a whole-gig cache alone might be worth it.


----------



## mudd

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=473807

here's me at 3195 MHz. i'm just tinkering right now trying to suicide make it stable for 3dMark 2k6...


----------



## Blitz6804

Outstanding mudd; simply outstanding! If you can get 5 more MHz out of it, you get an "*[On AIR; Wow] (O_O)*" tacked after your name on the off-site roster. On that note, I am done through boonie2. Moving on to letter C now. While doing this, I just learned we have someone rocking a ULi M1689 chipset.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, my DFI SLI-DR never came with a bracket for the Karajan sound card. Are you sure it did?

In regards to your Crossfire question, here is a 3870 from Powercolor that may fit your budget: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814131095. Any reason why you are wanting to go Crossfire and instead just purchase one single powerful card?

Good luck










 As for the karajan module, how does yours attach to the board? In all of my destructions it shows a little black plastic bracket that plugs into the board.
Even on my NF4 ultra D/G it shows it.









As for crossfire, I just want to run an sli rig and a crossfire rig. I think its neat







. That and Im hoping I can get 2 lesser cards for considerably cheaper than 1 good one.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


A pair of HD 3850s cost around $100 from Newegg usually. Being the owner of a pair myself, I will tell you that performance is between one 8800 GT G92 512 MB and one 8800 GTS G92 512 MB. In my case, I have problems with stability; full-screen + AA = failure. But that is a motherboard issue likely.

I could always sell you mine if you want...



Hmm.....well that'd be on par or maybe ever so slightly better than 1 of my GSO's







What are you lookin to get for those cards? PM me if you want.









Ok now I need some learnin on the specifics of ATi's numbering system. I have some assumptions but I wanna hear it from the pros
















And thanx sid ill look in to shipping as thats all the way in New Zealand.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


It could, but Pez's CPU is more stubborn than the average mother-in-law. Maybe Joe can get him hooked up with an Opteron 170? The difference from a half-gig to a whole-gig cache alone might be worth it.


Haha that wouldn't be so bad







. But blitz and pio know first hand that my CPU absolutley refuses to run 2.6ghz stable. Constant freezes. No matter what settings. Lol @ tigerdirect still have 939 180 Opterons.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Haha that wouldn't be so bad







. But blitz and pio know first hand that my CPU absolutley refuses to run 2.6ghz stable. Constant freezes. No matter what settings. Lol @ tigerdirect still have 939 180 Opterons.


 Im glad they do! Both me and n2gaming both bought ours from there. Theyve actually gone up in price since I bought mine.







They can get to 3.0, they run a little hot so good cooling is a must.


----------



## mudd

figured i would post a few pictures of my proc just in case somebody wanted to try to cut their IHS off. a lot of people usually put the tape on the corners, but i prefer putting the tape pads in the middle. all it is is 3 sheets of black tape.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Fancy this. I never knew about my L2 cache and XP and it does in fact speed up your system.

Quote:



53. Get Windows to recognize your L2 cache on your CPU properly

( Warning: Please back-up your registry before performing this step )

By default windows sets the L2 cache of your AMD to zero...yes...0

Here's how to get it runnin.

Go to ''Start>run'' (Windows key + R) then type in "Regedit"
(regedit32 for advanced users as it provides a few more strings to play with)

Once your here go to ''HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESYSTEMCurrentControlSetCont ro lSession ManagerMemory ManagementSecondLevelDataCache''

Now ''Right-click'' and choose modify...select decimal and enter the value of your L2 cache on your CPU...128,256,512...ETC!!!!

Now restart your machine ...and while you may not notice dramatic effects Overclockers...most processes and applications should be a little quicker.

This step is By ''PROBN4LYFE''


Info: Ultimate Windows XP Optimizer Guide! + Hints and Tips! Pt. 2


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


As for the karajan module, how does yours attach to the board? In all of my destructions it shows a little black plastic bracket that plugs into the board.
Even on my NF4 ultra D/G it shows it.










BlackOmega, I'll recheck for you to see if in fact my card has that black plastic piece. Now that you mention it I think I do remember that piece









I'll follow up with you tonight when I get home. If I have it I'll mail it to you.

Mudd, good job on the de-lidding. I never had the guts to do it so anyone that actually does deserves some props









GuardianOdin, thanks for sharing that info. I'll try that on my machine and see how it goes!

Good luck guys


----------



## mudd

i forgot to mention, if you cut the top off of your proc, you need to clean the dust out of it more.

my house is dusty as hell and i had dust all up in that proc between my heatsink and the wafer.


----------



## Blitz6804

And you might have to shim or modify your heatsink retention module. I would think the ring of electrician's tape that most people put over the IMCs should be enough to keep dust off the CPU, but Joe can confirm or deny this. Dust filters on every intake fan is a great idea.


----------



## mudd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


And you might have to shim or modify your heatsink retention module. I would think the ring of electrician's tape that most people put over the IMCs should be enough to keep dust off the CPU, but Joe can confirm or deny this. Dust filters on every intake fan is a great idea.


i had tape covering all the IMC's and it didn't stop the dust.

if you use the original AMD heatsink bracket you have to sand down the nipples on the bottom of the bracket. but if you're cutting the IHS off you better be having an aftermarket cooler anyways that comes with its own screw on bracket


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, Joe went topless for the stock cooler overclocking competition we had this past summer. He can share with us the modifications he did to make a stock cooler fit.


----------



## Hueristic

I wanna De-Lid my UNI just for GP, But I had to wire down the Cooler and it's such a PITA to remove I'm not able to justify it ATM with the buttloads of uncompleted projects I have around here! :swearing:









BTW, GREAT Info G.O! Is this only on Opties (ok I'll read the damn manual







). I'm thinking this has to do with the AMD CPU driver release. First time I've ever seen a driver release for CPU's.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Funnily enough, I didn't modify the heatsink retention bracket at all for the stock cooling contest. I thought for sure that I would have had to, but I was amazed that everything fit just well enough sans any modifications.

If I remember, I'll post some pictures I took of the cooling setup from way back then. I'm at work right now, so it's a bit impossible to do at the moment.


----------



## Blitz6804

At work at 9am on New Years Eve? That isn't business hours, that is drudgery for the sake of it! _Here here._ *Turns to right.* Thank you Bob Cratchit.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


At work at 9am on New Years Eve? That isn't business hours, that is drudgery for the sake of it! _Here here._ *Turns to right.* Thank you Bob Cratchit.


Bah. Spoken like a man who has never held a "real" job before.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Dust filters on every intake fan is a great idea.


Blitz, filters on intake fans can also be a pain. A few issues I ran into with filters were increased fan noise and the reduced airflow in my case. Don't get me wrong they do help prevent dust build up though...

Good luck









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


At work at 9am on New Years Eve? That isn't business hours, that is drudgery for the sake of it!


Blitz, are you kidding? Today is just another day. Tomorrow is the Holiday


----------



## Blitz6804

My dad is off. My GF has a half day. My sister is working 3/4 of a day. (The store closes at 7 instead of 10.)

As to dust filters, yes, they are hit and miss. I will have no argument that they cut airflow. None. Not one bit. I have not yet experienced one that will increase noise however. As to cleaning, yes, some are annoying to clean (like on my Kama Bay cooler) and some are simple (like the two I just installed on my door.) If the filter is exterior, the easiest thing to do is just vacuum off the filter every time you vacuum your apartment. No muss; no fuss!


----------



## mudd

i'd rather deal with the dust. the dust makes me take my computer apart more often, reseat everything and make sure the computer is still in tip top running shape


----------



## pioneerisloud

Wait, hang on a second here.

Joe:
You say that when you delidded your processor, the stock cooler still fit without a problem? Do you think that Thermalright Ultra cooler would fit on a naked chip with the clip on brackets? Just an idea







.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
My dad is off. My GF has a half day. My sister is working 3/4 of a day. (The store closes at 7 instead of 10.)

Blitz, that doesn't mean everyone else is going to have it off









Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
As to dust filters, yes, they are hit and miss. I will have no argument that they cut airflow. None. Not one bit. I have not yet experienced one that will increase noise however. As to cleaning, yes, some are annoying to clean (like on my Kama Bay cooler) and some are simple (like the two I just installed on my door.) If the filter is exterior, the easiest thing to do is just vacuum off the filter every time you vacuum your apartment. No muss; no fuss!

Blitz, the fan also works harder with a filter. It's like putting a piece of paper over the fan. Try it yourself and see how much louder the fan becomes and see how much more air is exhausted. A filter obviously isn't like a piece of paper...was just pointing out an example but depending on the type of filter the restrictiveness can be similar.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I have. I notice no noise difference between with and without a filter. I DO however notice an airflow difference. (My fans in question are, at loudest, only 29 dBA. Well, my CPU fan is 39.5 dBA, but the filter is about 4" away from the fan at the end of a duct.)


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, I'll recheck for you to see if in fact my card has that black plastic piece. Now that you mention it I think I do remember that piece









I'll follow up with you tonight when I get home. If I have it I'll mail it to you.

That'd be awesome!









Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Fancy this. I never knew about my L2 cache and XP and it does in fact speed up your system.

Info: Ultimate Windows XP Optimizer Guide! + Hints and Tips! Pt. 2

Nice find Odin. But as for CPU with 1 mb L2's Im assuming that its 1024 right? can anyone verify this?

As for fans and filters, yeah they do restrict air flow. How much? that all depends on the media used for filtering. Id imagine a large pore, thin strip of sponge or sponge like material wouldn't impede air fow all that much.
No offense to anyone, but Ive noticed that If I vacuum regularly, with a kid it semms like 3-4 times a week, my dust build up is considerably reduced. I used to clean out my heatsinks/fans about once a month, now that I vacuum like crazy its cinsiderably less. Maybe once every 3 months.

As for delidding, I dont see why youd need to modify that bracket. Isn't the IHS only like 3mm thick? I would imagine that the stock retaining mechanism would be able to compensate for that.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Nice find Odin. But as for CPU with 1 mb L2's Im assuming that its 1024 right? can anyone verify this?


BlackOmega, "1024" would be the correct number to use.

Good luck









EDIT: Here is a interesting article about the SecondLevelDataCache: http://support.microsoft.com/kb/183063


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, "1024" would be the correct number to use.

Good luck









EDIT: Here is a interesting article about the SecondLevelDataCache: http://support.microsoft.com/kb/183063


 Thank you sir


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, "1024" would be the correct number to use.

Good luck









EDIT: Here is a interesting article about the SecondLevelDataCache: http://support.microsoft.com/kb/183063


I noticed some nice load times on my apps since messed with my SecondLevelDataCache. My SuperPi run seemed a bit better as well.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


As for delidding, I dont see why youd need to modify that bracket. Isn't the IHS only like 3mm thick? I would imagine that the stock retaining mechanism would be able to compensate for that.


The IHS may be only 3mm thick, but that's still 3mm of material which the retention mechanism may not have the range of movement for which to compensate.

A visual inspection of the retention hardware and a clip-on heatsink (especially certain versions of the stock cooler) would make things quite clear. Clip-on heatsinks rely on the clips to exert the proper amount of downwards pressure to maintain proper contact between the base of the heatsink and the top of the IHS. If you remove the IHS, that means the heatsink has to somehow sit lower so that its base would now make contact with the naked core die. For certain heatsinks, especially some versions of the stock cooler, another complication is the fact that the base of the heatsink is a huge block of copper, part of which sits on the IHS, but also part of which sits on part of the retention bracket (there is a lip on the inside of the heatsink retention bracket). If you don't shave off the same amount of material from the bottom of the heatsink retention module as the height of the IHS, well... it's easy to see that the heatsink then won't be able to sit on top of the exposed core die.









A related anecdote: During the stock cooling OCing contest from several months back, I ran a topless CPU. By definition, I also ran a stock heatsink. I didn't shave material off of the bottom of my heatsink retention module because I found out that, despite not having an IHS, the core die still had good enough contact with the heatsink base. One reason was that my stock heatsink did not sit on that lip on the inside of the heatsink retention module. The retention clip, though, was notably more loose than a truly stock mount. If I shaved off the 3mm necessary, I believe that chip would have run even cooler than it did at the time. (High-pressure mounts are more effective than lower-than-optimum pressure.)

Hope this helps.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Wait, hang on a second here.

Joe:
You say that when you delidded your processor, the stock cooler still fit without a problem? Do you think that Thermalright Ultra cooler would fit on a naked chip with the clip on brackets? Just an idea







.


You missed my post Joe







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


You missed my post Joe







.


Oopsies.







Sorry, pio.

Dunno the answer to that one, to be honest. The S-Clip may or may not exert enough pressure to maintain optimum contact between the core die and the base of the TR Ultima 90.

If the fit is loose, at least it's not too difficult to modify the S-Clip and/or how it mates with the top of the base of the TR Ultima 90. You can always fill in the hole where the S-Clip mates with the top of the base with some material (I'd use something like layers of electrical tape; you can add or subtract this until you have enough of the stuff, and once it's in layers it won't really compress so much even under a lot of pressure) until you get a high-enough mounting pressure. An alternative, and more permanent, solution is to add 3mm of material (how about the discarded IHS?) to the top of the base of the heatsink, then mount the S-Clip. The increased mounting pressure should (*should*) prevent slippage once the cooler is mounted.

Hope this helps!


----------



## Hueristic

AFA filters go I would use Furnace filters. Good airflow and they are cheap so you can replace them frequently. I think a 2ftX1ft filter is like $3.50 at Benny's(local hardware/general store). you can cut alot of filters out of that one sheet.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Another filter suggestion: Pantyhose. Lightweight porous material... very flexible and stretchable... plus it comes in an assortment of colors!

(Not that I know from experience. Just so you know...)









Besides, everyone knows that real men run sans filters. I'm with mudd here: I'd rather clean the rig out regularly than mess with filters, which will always reduce the efficiency of the cooling fans.


----------



## Hueristic

I just wait till something fails then clean and replace as needed!


----------



## MjrTom

Here is the first results from the initial overclock attempt with 4x1GB installed:
Prime stable for about 6 hours no errors.


----------



## Blitz6804

Do my eyes deceive me? DDR 475 with 4 DIMMs? +REP!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MjrTom* 
Here is the first results from the initial overclock attempt with 4x1GB installed:
Prime stable for about 6 hours no errors.










Very nice.


----------



## thlnk3r

MjrTom, awesome job









Do you know what type of IC's are on the memory?

Good luck


----------



## Nanner

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 








Slight overclock from 2.4ghz
stock cooling (looking for a TRUE or IFX-14 atm)

I have this same processor, but how did you overclock it? And is this the highest socket 939 processor thats out there?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nanner*


I have this same processor, but how did you overclock it? And is this the highest socket 939 processor thats out there?


 In regards to OCing, go to the first page of this thread and read some of the how to OC guides.

As for the highest processor for the socket 939, the FX60 and the Opteron 185 are the highest. Theyre both 2.6 right out of the box. and supposedly the FX60 overclocks really well.


----------



## nepas

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MjrTom*


Here is the first results from the initial overclock attempt with 4x1GB installed:
Prime stable for about 6 hours no errors.










you sir,win an internet,for services with a nice O/C+ 4 sticks


----------



## JEmmaB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MjrTom*


Here is the first results from the initial overclock attempt with 4x1GB installed:
Prime stable for about 6 hours no errors.










Wow! Nice very nice.









And to all a belated Happy New Year!!!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

MjrTom, well done indeed!









"The Force is strong in this one."


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Nanner* 
I have this same processor, but how did you overclock it? And is this the highest socket 939 processor thats out there?

All Socket 939 CPUs are clocked the same way (to once again quote myself):

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
1) Reduce CPU multiplier to 5x, reduce HT Link to 2x, reduce RAM to 200:100
2) Increase the HTT by 5 MHz
3) Run Orthos 30 minutes
4) If it passes, go to step 2; if it fails go to step 5
5) Subtract 10 MHz from the HTT you just tried and write that number down as "Max HTT"
6) Return HTT to 200, increase memory to 200:200
7) Increase the HTT by 5 MHz
8) Run Orthos 30 minutes
9) If it passes, go to step 7; if it fails go to step 10
10) Subtract 10 MHz from the HTT you just tried and write it down as "Max RAM"
11) Return the HTT to 200 and the RAM to 200:100, then set the CPU multiplier to its maximum (in your case, 12x)
12) Increase the HTT by 5 MHz
13) Run Orthos 30 minutes
14) If it passes, go to step 12; if it fails go to step 14
15) Subtract 10 MHz from the HTT you just tried, multiply it by the multiplier in step 11, and write it down as "Max CPU"
OPTIONAL:
16) Return the HTT to 200 and the CPU multiplier to 5x, change the HT Link to 5x
17) Increase the HTT by 5 MHz
18) Run Orthos 30 minutes
19) If it passes, go to step 16; if it fails go to step 20
20) Subtract 10 MHz from the HTT you just tried, multiply it by 5, and write it down as "Max HyperTransport"

Now we know your max CPU, max memory clock, max HyperTransport, and max HTT. If you enter those values into Gogar it will give you a good starting point for your overclock. (The boxes in Gogar correlate to step 15, step 10, step 20, and step 5 in my rubric above.)

Note, the "Max RAM" only applies for those timings. Change the timings, and you change the "Max RAM" value. Sometimes it is better to start looser and then try to tighten them down later. Note further that these all apply for the same voltages. If you increase your CPU voltage, you may increase Max CPU. If you increase your NBV or VDIMM, you may increase your Max RAM. If you increase HTV, you might increase your Max HyperTransport. Note all the mays. Voltage does not always increase the clockability.

As to the "highest" CPU, as has been said, the 3800+ Venice is not the "highest." It runs the same speed as the 4000+ San Diego (12x200) but has half the cache. For dual cores, the 4800+ Toledo, the FX-60 Toledo, and the Opteron 185 Denmark all run at 13x200, making them the fastest CPUs of the 939-line at-stock. When overclocking comes into play, these "truths" go out the window, as often the fastest CPUs are those of good steppings in the middle of the group. That is, Opteron 170s and 175s. Although, I have seen a few "golden" 165s that can easly exceed 3.0 GHz on the right motherboard.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nanner*


but how did you overclock it?


Nanner, if this is your first time overclock (which it sounds like it is) then this guide would be an excellent read. It goes over some of most basic concepts of overclocking. When you have time I'd suggest reading over it: http://icrontic.com/articles/a64_overclocking_theory. The guide is focused towards overclocking a S939 system.

Good luck


----------



## StormX2

Isn't naners computer a Compaq?

If it is then I dont assume the Mobo will be too happy with overclocking.

and Hooray for Golden opty 165 Chips!


----------



## mudd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *StormX2*


Isn't naners computer a Compaq?

If it is then I dont assume the Mobo will be too happy with overclocking.

and Hooray for Golden opty 165 Chips!


hoooorayyyyyyyyy


----------



## Blitz6804

He MAY be stuck using only software overclocking if his motherboard is a locked/ghosted OEM board.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *StormX2*


Isn't naners computer a Compaq?

If it is then I dont assume the Mobo will be too happy with overclocking.

and Hooray for Golden opty 165 Chips!


Storm, you're absolutely correct. Thanks for catching that. Here's the details on his motherboard: http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/d...name=c00496280.

Naner, the BIOS is usually locked on proprietary motherboards. In terms of overclocking, you won't be able to make these changes. You could however give software overclocking a try. I strongly recommend staying away from that though only because it can corrupt your OS (MBR, NTLDR) and even damage your hardware.

Your best bet would be to pick up a motherboard that actually offered overclocking features.

Good luck


----------



## pioneerisloud

That and if its a 939 board you're after.....there just happens to be at least one of that I know for sale







.


----------



## The_Gamer294

http://www.overclock.net/5223136-post140.html

Do I get an ON AIR







? lol

That's on STOCK cooling too


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The_Gamer294*


That's on STOCK cooling too


----------



## Blitz6804

The off-site roster redesign is done through DUNC4N. So far, I have been incapable of getting motherboard information on only two computers. Not bad...

The_Gamer294: You have a private message.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
The off-site roster redesign is done through DUNC4N. So far, I have been incapable of getting motherboard information on only two computers. Not bad...

The_Gamer294: You have a private message.

Blitz, awesome job


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The_Gamer294*


http://www.overclock.net/5223136-post140.html

Do I get an ON AIR







? lol

That's on STOCK cooling too










 Nice!







With only a 2 mhz increase









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


The off-site roster redesign is done through DUNC4N. So far, I have been incapable of getting motherboard information on only two computers. Not bad...

The_Gamer294: You have a private message.


 Very nicely done blitz!


----------



## BlackOmega

Aparently my Venice doesnt seem to like 1.86v.







But I got it to 2850.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Aparently my Venice doesnt seem to like 1.86v.







But I got it to 2850.










Yeah buddy! HIGH FIVE!


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Aparently my Venice doesnt seem to like 1.86v.







But I got it to 2850.







































:swearing:


----------



## MjrTom

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Do my eyes deceive me? DDR 475 with 4 DIMMs? +REP!



Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Very nice.











Quote:



Originally Posted by *nepas*


you sir,win an internet,for services with a nice O/C+ 4 sticks



Quote:



Originally Posted by *JEmmaB*


Wow! Nice very nice.











Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


MjrTom, well done indeed!








"The Force is strong in this one."











Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


MjrTom, awesome job







Do you know what type of IC's are on the memory? Good luck


Hey big thanks for the comments








Yep Opteron 165 (1.8GHz) @2.6GHz
4x1GB RAM @ DDR475 3-3-2-7 2T

thlnk3r: I the initial 2 sticks of redline have Infineon CE-6 IC's. the additional sticks I believe are the same. (Not peeled the heatspreaders off the two new sticks).

I initally experienced quite a bit of hassle even getting the system to POST with 4 modules installed.

At stock settings I could get the system to post with all 4 memory modules installed but when I started to overclock the CPU, the fun and games started
I found that I could not get the system to POST if I manually set the memory divider at any setting other than the lowest divider (1:2 or 100MHz) and the memory was not stable beyond about 150Mhz (DDR300 effective)

In the end I decided to revert back to letting the MCH decide the divider and in the BIOS left the DRAM frequency to auto. Booted up into windows and checked CPU-Z which reported a 333MHz divider in use.

Next I went back into the BIOS and just raised the FSB back upto 290MHz which I knew was a stable setting based on my previous overclocks with 2x1GB RAM. leaving the memory divider on auto. I then manually set the memory timings to the SPD timings and increased the drive strength.

Currently I am trying to push it a bit further but not having much success yet. The memory is stable all the way upto 250MHz with 4 modules installed (3 loops of memtest, no errors) however it does not load windows.
Not sure whats holding it back as this CPU is stable upto ~2.8GHz on stock voltage.

Further testing to follow...


----------



## nepas

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Aparently my Venice doesnt seem to like 1.86v.







But I got it to 2850.










so are you putting that in the comp?


----------



## MjrTom

1.86v lol....

Anyone want some toast?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nepas*


so are you putting that in the comp?


LOL, We got 27 or so days left! I'd recommend trying to get higher clocks as opposed to worrying about staying in the lead till the end.







I will be posting some towards the end of the month also.


----------



## timxirish

MjrTom, I meant to say something sooner, but great work on the overclock job. From what I understand, having maxed out ram slots can cause a bit of trouble with overclocking (i assumed it was specific to my board, but going by the response you got, must be a general issue).

I haven't quite pushed my opty to it's limits just yet, but I'd hope to soon. At the moment I'm getting my secondary machine figured out, and in a few days I should have a HD set aside for it (I'm replacing my 36GB WD Raptor for a 1TB drive in the main rig-- secondary/lan machine gets Raptor), as well as a new case thanks to End of Year clearance sales @ thermaltake's store. Picked up a black Lanbox for ~$60, IIRC.. Going to be fun setting it up and getting my overclock on again.


----------



## MjrTom

Cheers for the comment







Yeah populating all DIMM slots really gives the motherboard a good workout.
Not given up yet, will work on getting these modules back upto 250MHz








It might be a voltage issue or one of the lesser used DRAM settings in the BIOS.

Pretty happy with the progress so far.

You should be able to get a good overclock out of that Opty, My Opty will do 2.8GHz on stock voltage (1.35v) and requires about 0.05v increase on stock voltage for every 100MHz increase in clock speed. upto 1.55v for 3.1GHz max overclock.

Currently been side tracked by a purchase of a new case (P182) and a Seagate 1TB (7200 rpm 32mb) Baracuda.

Got lots of files to sort through now lol


----------



## timxirish

Heheh.. I hear you on the file sorting bit.. My 300 and 320 drives are packed full. Going to be some serious file management and cleanup going on once I get my TB drive in.

But thanks for the tips-- I'm bookmarking that post so I'll have it later. The lanbox's CPU is an Athlon 64 3500+ Venice, so that's what I'll be working with first. Sooner or later I'll replace the Tt Blue Orb II on my opty for something better, but I'm big on cosmetic appeal. I'm the type of dude who would sacrifice a few better stats in an MMO for gear that merely looks nicer







. I'm a big fan of the orb type stuff, so TRUE and Vendetta 2 don't look all that great IMO.. But i'm definitely considering the Vendetta 2. That, and Tt's new V1 AX... We'll see how things go I suppose.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quick correction; 4x1024 does not give the motherboard a good workout. It gives the IMC a good workout. Granted, most motherboards cannot run much over DDR 450 with four gigabyte DIMMs. Only DFI boards have the settings needed to get the most out of the RAM. (I am thinking predominately driving strength here. Asus has more settings than most, but DFI has far more settings.) Mark my words though, DDR 475 or not, you likely are not getting the bandwidth of two DIMMs with the same settings. When I had two DIMMs, I got around 6300 MBps for DDR 400. When running four DIMMs, I got around 5400 MBps for the identical settings. Now, an nForce4 might be different than an ATI Crossfire Xpress 3200, but I am skeptical.


----------



## Vboi418

Lol.. I still have my S939 3800+ sitting my case. I was trying to rebuild it because my grandma got a new CPU and gave me her old one. So far I have: 3800+, 1GB DDR400, 80GB HDD, FX5500, a PSU, CD-Burner, Case Fan, and Case. I did order a Foxconn motherboard but it didn't work and when I wanted to RMA it my grandma said she needed the money so just send it back and get a refund.

That was about 5 months ago. Now I'm stuck using my laptop.


----------



## MjrTom

Thanks for the technical correction, I was being lazy in my explanation.









Yes you are correct with respect to bandwidth, however the project was to try and achieve the highest overclock possible whilst utilising 4GB of RAM.

For some applications I find that 2GB and a higher overclock on the CPU are more beneficial, however I with large TIFF/RAW file photoshop work that additional RAM makes things a bit more responsive.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Vboi418*


Lol.. I still have my S939 3800+ sitting my case. I was trying to rebuild it because my grandma got a new CPU and gave me her old one. So far I have: 3800+, 1GB DDR400, 80GB HDD, FX5500, a PSU, CD-Burner, Case Fan, and Case. I did order a Foxconn motherboard but it didn't work and when I wanted to RMA it my grandma said she needed the money so just send it back and get a refund.

That was about 5 months ago. Now I'm stuck using my laptop.


Well, you're not at a total loss







. If you come across money for a mobo, check my sig







.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Yeah buddy! HIGH FIVE!


































Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*






























:swearing:



















Quote:



Originally Posted by *MjrTom*


1.86v lol....

Anyone want some toast?


----------



## TestECull

O hay.

Sig Rig has been 3DMarked.

@BlackOmega: Not bad at all. I got 2.76 @ 1.65V, and I was just starting to hit the wall Venice cores all have, where voltspam is required to get anything more.


----------



## StormX2

that X1900XT really scored that low?

Not bad though i guess hehe

@ pioneerisloud - I am jealous. If I saw that Sale for the 2x1 Corsair Plat's I was gonna grab them lol, Think they are the same IC's that I have now.

Doesnt matter much nwo though, Since now I have o build a DDR3 machine to se this set that I got for free.. Have no idea what I am going to do -.-


----------



## thlnk3r

TestECull, very nice. Not to bad for four year old tech and a 2.6Ghz processor









Good luck

Quote:


Originally Posted by *StormX2* 
that X1900XT really scored that low?

Storm, I borrowed one of Joe's 1950XT's and it scored in the high 5,000. So in comparison I believe that is about right for a 1900.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
O hay.

Sig Rig has been 3DMarked.

@BlackOmega: Not bad at all. I got 2.76 @ 1.65V, and I was just starting to hit the wall Venice cores all have, where voltspam is required to get anything more.

I'm not sure If that's good but I think so, IIRC last time I ran that I got like 1K.


----------



## TestECull

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
TestECull, very nice. Not to bad for four year old tech and a 2.6Ghz processor









Good luck

Storm, I borrowed one of Joe's 1950XT's and it scored in the high 5,000. So in comparison I believe that is about right for a 1900.


Actually, I was only running my CPU at 2.4. I had reset it to stock because I was repairing Windows, which doesn't need any help corrupting itself, and only OC'd it to 2.4 to ensure I was meeting GTA IV's minimums. I'm sure I can squeeze another 200-300 3DMarks out of this thing, but I'm not really that heavy into benching. I ran it for the lulz, mainly.









My X1900 was running at advertised clocks, however.

Slightly off topic, but meh: GTA IV doesn't run half bad on this thing either. It's numerous bugs are showing themselves tho...First, I had a problem getting any 16X10 res over 848X400, then I used some hax which gave me those settings, but in turrn caused INSANO microstutter fail. I removed that, game retains 1280X720, but that shifts the image off to the right about an inch, so I have to use 1154X700 or something like that. :\\ Also, the game tends to want to default, yet again, to Eye-strain-o-vision in the form of 848X400 all low.

When I reset the settings, however, it runs quite nicely. I've already unlocked the second island, terrorized Wall street, hit the Bawsaq sign at about 150MPH and generally had lulz with my edited handling.dat.














This game is quite fun when it does run.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
O hay.

Sig Rig has been 3DMarked.

Hmm, I thought your box was gonna score higher than mine
2032SM2.0
2397HDR/SM3.0
1898CPU
Could it be the XP vs. Vista?







Have to take resolution in mind too I guess.

What FPS are you getting in GTA IV?







I'm at 22 FPS pretty much all the time with 1024x768 and medium settings. It won't let me set any higher with 256MB







My game also tends to defaults each time I start it.


----------



## TestECull

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
Hmm, I thought your box was gonna score higher than mine
2032 SM2.0
2397 HDR/SM3.0
1898 CPU
Could it be the XP vs. Vista?







Have to take resolution in mind too I guess.

What FPS are you getting in GTA IV?







I'm at 22 FPS pretty much all the time with 1024x768 and medium settings. It won't let me set any higher with 256MB







My game also tends to defaults each time I start it.


I get the same defaulting problem, it's annoying as hell.

As far as ingame FPS, I'd guess between 14 and 17FPS. Playable, but not exactly stellar. It hasn't stopped me from completing the first island and unlocking the second, tho.

There is a way to force the game to allow higher settings, but I warn you now. I tried it, and I got the worst case of Microstuttering I've ever heard of. I can attach a file that you put in the same dir as gtaiv.exe, and it removes the restrictions. :\\ I removed it because I'd rather have the lower settings than the microstutter.

As for the score, probably was Vista V XP. I could care less, tho. I was bored, it was 3am, I did it for the lulz. Score isn't too shabby for the age of this thing. I care more about games, and this thing somehow manages to play every game I throw at it, even the crappiest PC port that has ever worn the badge of Honor that is Grand Theft Auto. :\\ I also didn't spend 20 minutes cleaning out my processes tab either. I just closed FF, paused the virus scans that were running, then started 3DMark. Again, it was just for the lulz.

I'm serious, the bugs in GTA IV are insane, and they are legion!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
Hmm, I thought your box was gonna score higher than mine
2032SM2.0
2397HDR/SM3.0
1898CPU
Could it be the XP vs. Vista?







Have to take resolution in mind too I guess.

HothBase, good question. The 1900XT has more pixel pipelines but the memory bandwidth on a 1950GT is higher (38.4 GB/s vs the 22.4 GB/s) so that may be high. Clock for clock they are about the same.

Good luck


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
There is a way to force the game to allow higher settings, but I warn you now. I tried it, and I got the worst case of Microstuttering I've ever heard of. I can attach a file that you put in the same dir as gtaiv.exe, and it removes the restrictions. : I removed it because I'd rather have the lower settings than the microstutter.

I'm serious, the bugs in GTA IV are insane, and they are legion!

I actually uninstalled it a few weeks ago because the patch which was supposed to improve performance actually lowered my average FPS :/
Since I've been away during X-mas I haven't had the time to reinstall it yet.

And yeah, I heard the X1900-series has some issues with shadows in the game, I guess that doesn't make things any better for you ^^

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
The 1900XT has more pixel pipelines but the memory bandwidth on a 1950GT is higher (38.4 GB/s vs the 22.4 GB/s) so that may be high.

Isn't the X1900XT 46.4 GB/sec?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
Isn't the X1900XT 46.4 GB/sec?

Hoth, thanks for clarifying. I was viewing the specs of the ATI card in the Xbox 360


----------



## Blitz6804

TestECull: There are things you can do to improve your 3DMark06 score. First and foremost, disable visual themes and desktop composition. (Disables Aero and Alt-Tab.) For the ultimate cheat, run it in XP compatibility mode; that adds a lot right there.

Hothbase and TestECull: I know Hothbase's memory is running at 2-3-2-6-1T. It is possible that TestECull's memory is running substantially looser. The RAM is rated to go 2.5-3-3-6-1T at DDR 400 (1:1), but the SPD might be substantially looser. The DDR 467 should make up for the difference (compared to Hothbase's DDR 416) but you never know for sure.

TestECull: As per the last paragraph, can we get a screen cap of the "Memory" tab of your CPU-Z?


----------



## Name Change

Highest oc I have tried, this was awhile ago.









http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=96757


----------



## Blitz6804

Holy crow Name Change! Was that on water cooling? Did you just stick the PC in a snow bank? I will add you to the off-site roster tomorrow, as it is rather late (as you know). Granted, Newfoundland is GMT -4 (so it is later still by you) but whatever.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Name Change* 
Highest oc I have tried, this was awhile ago.









http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=96757


Nice job


----------



## Name Change

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Nice job









Thx.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Holy crow Name Change! Was that on water cooling? Did you just stick the PC in a snow bank? I will add you to the off-site roster tomorrow, as it is rather late (as you know). Granted, Newfoundland is GMT -4 (so it is later still by you) but whatever.

Hehe, snow bank would of worked out good. =P. All air, same pc and cooling then as I got now, cept vid ofc. Was stable enough for super pi and some Sissoft sandra tests. I lost all my saved benches a month later or so when my hd died. =/, I may try to best it tonight. Been awhile since I tried. =P.


----------



## TestECull

Blitz, Think3r: That 3dmark run I did wasn't even at 2.6ghz and DDR467. It was at only 2.4ghz, and I believe I put the ram on a divider this time. Like I said earlier, before I was trying to resolve some issues with GTA IV, one of which was the clockspeed of my CPU.

As far as upping my score goes....I'm not terribly interested in it. I ran 3dmark for the lulz. That wasn't a serious benchmark. I'm not sure if I'll even run it again.

Edit: Yeah, I dividered my ram. It's running DDR402.

My HTT link is also running 1100mhz, and no hint of instabilities. Wierd. Usually that thing spazzes out that high.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Name Change* 
Highest oc I have tried, this was awhile ago.









http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=96757


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Name Change* 
Highest oc I have tried, this was awhile ago.









http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=96757

Name Change, how much Vcore are you running with that 3.1Ghz overclock? Great job









Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Holy crow Name Change! Was that on water cooling? Did you just stick the PC in a snow bank?

Blitz, the typical Manchester OC of 2.6-2.8 with a high Vcore is just based on averages. There are exceptions of course. This is another reason to prove that the same core name doesn't mean jack


----------



## StormX2

I think I may attempt to revisit My ram settings, gonna get a screen of my Bios setting this time though.

recently noticing that Character Models in Warhammer online, sometimes disapear from the screen and reapear shortly after. Not sure if that is a VRAM or System ram issue.


----------



## pez

I just saw the Foxconn Blood Rage and fell in love. Whenever I have the money to switch over to i7, I'm sold. Only about $800 to go lol.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *StormX2* 
recently noticing that Character Models in Warhammer online, sometimes disapear from the screen and reapear shortly after. Not sure if that is a VRAM or System ram issue.

StormX2, sounds like a display driver issue. Is your video card overclocked at all?

Good luck


----------



## dani9998

hey,
I'm getting this cooling to the cpu this week and i want to overclock my CPU at least 30%,is it possible? how? voltage?mh'z?temprtues? im newbie

my computer:

amd athlon 64 +3200 s939 90nm
NVIDIA nForce 4 GA-K8N-SLi pci-e version
RAM(ddr):









Thanks.


----------



## Pest

Is that a Venice or Winchester core? It should say on the first page of CPU-Z.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dani9998* 
hey,
I'm getting this cooling to the cpu this week and i want to overclock my CPU at least 30%,is it possible? how? voltage?mh'z?temprtues? im newbie

my computer:

amd athlon 64 +3200 s939 90nm
NVIDIA nForce 4 GA-K8N-SLi pci-e version

Dani, welcome to OCN









First things first, I recommend reading over a few of the overclocking guides. These will give you a better understanding of the concepts and procedures of OC'ing. Here are a few that are helpful:

http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...ing-guide.html
http://icrontic.com/articles/a64_overclocking_theory

This is more targeted towards an AM2 system but some of the procedures still apply:

http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...ocket-am2.html

The GA-K8N-SLI is a nice motherboard. The BIOS has quite a few available options for overclocking. One of my buddies has this board and the BIOS seemed pretty simple to grasp. Can you include a screenshot of the first tab in CPU-Z?

Don't hesitate to ask more questions

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Name Change: What sort of ambient temperature? -10Âº C?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
As far as upping my score goes....I'm not terribly interested in it. I ran 3dmark for the lulz. That wasn't a serious benchmark. I'm not sure if I'll even run it again.

Yeah, it really is not a serious benchmark. However, the slower RAM EASILY explains the difference in scores. A hypertransport of 1100 is quite alright. Anything much higher than 1150 will likely need a small hypertransport voltage bump.

dani9998: Is that gnome running CPU-Z in wine? Or just a themed XP?


----------



## BlackOmega

Well I popped the lid off of my 3500+, took a little bit, but I was just being cautious as I was lid popping virgin.







Holy smoke that lid is thick. Thicker than I thought iwas going to be. And it seems as though thats where all the weight is on the CPU.

Anyway so I put her all back together using my thermalright xp120, and







50*c according to BIOS. Then it booted into windows and it got all the way up to 84* according to coretemp








So then I realized I needed to sand down the feet of the base of the CPU cooler that 3mm. Well Ive only got 800 grit here and that doesnt work worth a damn, used 2 sheets and got it down 1.5mm







. So Looks Ill have to wait until my wife gets back before I can finish. 
But heres some pics, sorry about the quality, this camera is such a piece of :turd:


----------



## thlnk3r

BlackOmega, I'm just happy you got a POST screen and are also able to get into Windows.

Great job my friend


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, I'm just happy you got a POST screen and are also able to get into Windows.

Great job my friend









Thanx th|k3r







.
You cant tell from the pics, but the blade on that box cutter is actually pretty thick so it made it kind of difficult to cut. I actually had to flip the blade and wore the tips off of both ends.









I used the AMD foam that comes with the CPU's and it worked very well at keeping me from bending the pins. Man ,I cant wait to grind down the rest of that heatsink bracket to see what kind of temps I get. Especially with really high voltages.







1.9v here I come


----------



## nategr8ns

nice job blackomega! It's a good thing it didn't overheat too much and die on you


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hey guys, been stupidly busy at work. What's the haps in the club house?

BlackOmega, you are now a true man, for you have gone topless.







With a cooler like the XP-120 and the like, which use a proprietary heatsink retention bracket and clip attachment mechanism, it is *essential* to sand down the bottoms of the retention bracket for it to sit down directly on the motherboard's PCB. This is to compensate for the now-missing IHS.

(This explanation, by the way, is not necessarily for BlackOmega.







It's for anyone else who is considering taking the top off of their S939 CPU and is using certain clip-on heatsinks. This is also why I am strongly biased towards bolt-down retention mechanisms for heatsinks.







)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Sorry for the double post, folks, but I have to welcome Name Change into the Club! He has the great honor of being the first new member in *2009*.


----------



## thlnk3r

Wow I completely forgot to welcome him as well ....

Welcome Name Change to the club


----------



## Name Change

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Wow I completely forgot to welcome him as well ....

Welcome Name Change to the club









Thx mate







.

Was in and around 1.55 volts, the temps were pretty decent loads weren't even 60c, my cpu always ran super cool for some reason. It was not super cold when i did it but it was cool.


----------



## pez

Achhh, guys I'm excited. My case is due to arrive tommorow. I'm like even more excited than when I was getting my monitor and 2nd card .


----------



## Blitz6804

What will you be doing with the Xion II?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
But heres some pics, sorry about the quality, this camera is such a piece of :turd:


----------



## Blitz6804

*Starts to wonder why Hueristic is only smilieing lately.*


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


*Starts to wonder why Hueristic is only smilieing lately.*


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 





































Did you lose your KB again
















Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
nice job blackomega! It's a good thing it didn't overheat too much and die on you










Ahh its ok, I bought this CPU solely for experimentation purposes. That and if I need another one, I can pick one up for $30 brand new.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Hey guys, been stupidly busy at work. What's the haps in the club house?

BlackOmega, you are now a true man, for you have gone topless.







With a cooler like the XP-120 and the like, which use a proprietary heatsink retention bracket and clip attachment mechanism, it is *essential* to sand down the bottoms of the retention bracket for it to sit down directly on the motherboard's PCB. This is to compensate for the now-missing IHS.

(This explanation, by the way, is not necessarily for BlackOmega.







It's for anyone else who is considering taking the top off of their S939 CPU and is using certain clip-on heatsinks. This is also why I am strongly biased towards bolt-down retention mechanisms for heatsinks.







)

After I saw the temps i was like







I dont know if it caused any permanent damage or not. It kept BSODing on me after I got the heatsink bracket ground down. I kept getting the IRQL_lesser, something along those lines. Now Ive got my ram running @ 260.







that and it took 1.376v to get er totally stable.With the IHS I was running her at 1.28v just fine.







I doesnt appear that I went too deep or anything like that.







Well im gonna load er up and see if the temps are any better.









Welcome name change.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I wouldn't worry about permanent damage, BlackOmega. pioneerisloud would tell you a story about how he and I were racing each other (Race07) several months ago, when suddenly my rig froze. Rebooted, tried the game again, same thing happened.

Turns out my CPU fan died mid-game (I didn't realize it because I was wearing headphones at the time).







I had to investigate the problem and very quickly found that I couldn't hear my CPU fan anymore (sans headphones).









Quick fan replacement, then boom. Back in the game!

That same chip lives in the sig rig...


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I wouldn't worry about permanent damage, BlackOmega. pioneerisloud would tell you a story about how he and I were racing each other (Race07) several months ago, when suddenly my rig froze. Rebooted, tried the game again, same thing happened.

Turns out my CPU fan died mid-game (I didn't realize it because I was wearing headphones at the time).







I had to investigate the problem and very quickly found that I couldn't hear my CPU fan anymore (sans headphones).









Quick fan replacement, then boom. Back in the game!

That same chip lives in the sig rig...










Good to know









Well just ran S&M @ 100% short, 46*c was max observed during FPU. which is definitely an improvement.









O and get this joe, while I had the 3500+ rig apart I loaded all the DIMMs in the cfx3200 with my hyperx. Guess what, no freeze. Odd dont ya think







. BTW, Im running my opty 180 on that board, so far at bone stock speeds until I can nail down the freezing issue. Ill keep ya posted if it stays like that or reverts to freezing.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I look forward to hearing about that, BlackOmega!









I have got to muster up the gumption (and time and energy) to get my own CFX3200 back from mothballs.


----------



## dani9998

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pest* 
Is that a Venice or Winchester core? It should say on the first page of CPU-Z.

its venice,
and its themed XP


----------



## dani9998

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Dani, welcome to OCN









First things first, I recommend reading over a few of the overclocking guides. These will give you a better understanding of the concepts and procedures of OC'ing. Here are a few that are helpful:

http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...ing-guide.html
http://icrontic.com/articles/a64_overclocking_theory

This is more targeted towards an AM2 system but some of the procedures still apply:

http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...ocket-am2.html

The GA-K8N-SLI is a nice motherboard. The BIOS has quite a few available options for overclocking. One of my buddies has this board and the BIOS seemed pretty simple to grasp. Can you include a screenshot of the first tab in CPU-Z?

Don't hesitate to ask more questions

Good luck









ty..
I'll read this








and upload SS


----------



## BlackOmega

Well achieved a new all time high FSB 395.25 on my LP DR/G board.








Still cant seem to get the Venice to like 1.9v, itll post and all, but BSOD's







O well.


----------



## dani9998

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dani9998* 
hey,
I'm getting this cooling to the cpu this week and i want to overclock my CPU at least 30%,is it possible? how? voltage?mh'z?temprtues? im newbie

my computer:

amd athlon 64 +3200 s939 90nm
NVIDIA nForce 4 GA-K8N-SLi pci-e version
RAM(ddr):









Thanks.











btw i'll have Zalman 9700 NT


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Please welcome the newest members of our family, Vicarious and dani9998!

Glad to have you.


----------



## thlnk3r

Vicarious and Dani9998, welcome to the club









Dani, did you get a chance to read over any of the guides I posted? The 3200+ Venice is a nice processor. I have a 3200+ Venice that I haven't had much luck with but many others have had a easier time. What kind of memory are you running (brand/model)?

It would be helpful if you could add your hardware specifications to your signature: http://www.overclock.net/specs.php?do=addsystem

Good luck

BlackOmega, that is insanely high reference clock speed. Great job! Is it stable?


----------



## dani9998

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Vicarious and Dani9998, welcome to the club









Dani, did you get a chance to read over any of the guides I posted? The 3200+ Venice is a nice processor. I have a 3200+ Venice that I haven't had much luck with but many others have had a easier time. What kind of memory are you running (brand/model)?

It would be helpful if you could add your hardware specifications to your signature: http://www.overclock.net/specs.php?do=addsystem

Good luck

BlackOmega, that is insanely high reference clock speed. Great job! Is it stable?


i just came home..
so now I'll read it 
and add my hardware








ty in helping.. really
Im newbie


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dani9998*


i just came home..
so now I'll read it 
and add my hardware









ty in helping.. really
Im newbie










Dani, no problem. We all have to start somewhere


----------



## dani9998

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Dani, no problem. We all have to start somewhere









btw u gave me some AM2 stuff.. I dont have AM2 so its does matter right?


----------



## pez

Mmm case is arriving today...I will be posting new pics today of my beasty 939 rig







.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dani9998* 
btw u gave me some AM2 stuff.. I dont have AM2 so its does matter right?

Dani, Yes I'm aware of that. I just wanted you to read over it so you could understand the procedures taken. They are very similar to Socket 939. Obviously memory frequency is going to be different (DDR1 vs DDR2), HT (hypertransport) speeds but everything else is pretty much relative.

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dani9998* 
btw u gave me some AM2 stuff.. I dont have AM2 so its does matter right?

dani9998, most of the principles and concepts of overclocking AM2 and S939 platforms are the same (for non-Phenom CPUs, I mean). The only difference would be in the values of some of the numbers involved. For example, for RAM frequencies, the numbers in S939 would be roughly half of those quoted for AM2. Another difference would be in voltage values; these, in particular, are quite different between the two platforms. S939 voltage requirements are a little higher than AM2 with respect to VCore, generally speaking; DDR (1st Gen, for S939) VDIMM (RAM voltage) is quite a bit higher than VDIMM for DDR2.

Hope this helps.


----------



## dani9998

damn Im trying to understand this all stuff...
but im not getting it ..
i hope i'll understand it untill i'll get my cpu cooling :S


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 

BlackOmega, that is insanely high reference clock speed. Great job! Is it stable?

Thanx th|nk3r, yeah shes totally stable with a .10v increase on the chipset. This board came with a passive thermaltake nb cooler, even with the overvolt it idles @ 31*c and loads at 35/36*c. So that helped quite a bit. Makes me wonder if I drop the multiplier some and loosen the timings up, maybe I can get above 400







Ill give it a try and see what happens.


----------



## Blitz6804

As an owner of both, overclocking a K8, whether 939 or AM2, is done in the same fashion.

Joe: Phenoms are K10s, and do not occupy socket AM2. They instead go in socket AM2+. I know the two are surprisingly similar, but there are a few small differences.

(AM2 processors run in AM2 or AM2+; AM2+ processors only run in AM2+. Some AM2s have becomes AM2+ via a BIOS update solely. Others require different southbridges.)


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Well achieved a new all time high FSB 395.25 on my LP DR/G board.








Still cant seem to get the Venice to like 1.9v, itll post and all, but BSOD's







O well.

Holy cow!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Joe: Phenoms are K10s, and do not occupy socket AM2. They instead go in socket AM2+. I know the two are surprisingly similar, but there are a few small differences.

Blitz, I don't think Joe mentioned anything about "AM2+" so I'm a bit confused.

Anyways, let's not confuse Dani


----------



## cappy

Had this opty for a couple years, its a crappy stepping so i havnt really pushed it much.
If i remember, this is at 1.425 or 1.45.
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=478893
Ill work on pushing it more in a few days, iv got a 3500+ to kill xD
Just hope i don't kill my mobo in the process, no spares.


----------



## BlackOmega

Well got her just a wee bit higher 403.01 FSB.
Its not stable unfortunately, Im gonna stress it @ 401 and see if she holds up


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well got her just a wee bit higher 403.01 FSB.
Its not stable unfortunately, Im gonna stress it @ 401 and see if she holds up










BlackOmega, is this the CFX3200? That is extremely high. How much chipset voltage are you running? I'm assuming this isn't the stock 1.5volts.

Good luck


----------



## pez

Ugh my case is the version w/o the cable management cut outs







. Oh well, I'll live. Going to install shortly.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Ugh my case is the version w/o the cable management cut outs







. Oh well, I'll live. Going to install shortly.

Pez, if you have Dremel or access to tools you could always modify the case









I did the same to Joe's Lian Li case. The modifications have been very rewarding.

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hehe, free plugs FTW.

If I have time tonight, I'll show off some pictures of thlnk3r's work on my Lian Li PC-V1000B.







Oh, and some pictures of the first of my WC parts.









Ah, the P180. That was the first case my sig rig occupied. It looked great, but was a bit too cramped on the inside. Plus cable management was a bit of a challenge.

Hope you love yours, pez!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, is this the CFX3200? That is extremely high. How much chipset voltage are you running? I'm assuming this isn't the stock 1.5volts.

Good luck


 No this is the NF4 ultra D/G board. As for voltage, I have it set to 1.6v, but according to smart guardian, its only getting 1.56v.

Its totally stable @ 400 on the nose. Ran Orthos blend for 2 hours with no issues. I think it still could go higher, though. Now if I could only find a CPU that could take it








I think my RAM is holding me back. While this RAM is good, it doesnt seem to like going above 200MHz. It seems as soon as it hits 201 everything starts going haywire (windows booting slowly, etc). Although, @ 400 clock, it'll run @ surprisingly tight timings 2-3-2-5, better than advertised 2-3-2-6. Im running it in dual channel so I have it set to 2T.

As for the CFX3200 board, as soon as im done messing with the Ultra D/G, Im planning on trying different hardware configs in it and see if any of them change the freezing issue that these boards seem to be plagued with. I noticed the other day that when I had all 4 DIMMs occupied it didnt freeze. But lets see what happens.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
If I have time tonight, I'll show off some pictures of thlnk3r's work on my Lian Li PC-V1000B.







Oh, and some pictures of the first of my WC parts.









Joe, well some of the cuts weren't entirely straight. Free hand is something I am not best at









Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Its totally stable @ 400 on the nose. Ran Orthos blend for 2 hours with no issues. I think it still could go higher, though. Now if I could only find a CPU that could take it









BlackOmega, this is most impressive. I think this is the fastest reference clock speed I have seen yet!

Good job


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, well some of the cuts weren't entirely straight. Free hand is something I am not best at

















No wonder you insisted on me only looking at it in the darkness of the parking lot at Islands!


















j/k I totally dig the work you did, thlnk3r! It will serve its intended purpose.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, this is most impressive. I think this is the fastest reference clock speed I have seen yet!

Good job

Ye gods! That is an *INSANE IN THE MEMBRANE* reference clock speed!









Erm, um, BlackOmega, what's your home address? I need yours (and thlnk3r's, too) for a home invasion robbery attempt...


----------



## GuardianOdin

Got some news guys. I'll in the nostalgic section during or just after March/April. I'll be heading to Phenom II 940 "maybe 920" with this DFI LP DK 790FXB-M2RSH AM2+. I have done a lot of thinking about 939 upgrades Vs new tech. There really isn't more I can upgrade on my current rig maybe other than the Vid Card.

My total upgrade to AM2+ will be about $550-$570 really depends on the actual price when the Phenom II is released.

I love my 939 rig, but I think it's time to move on. I'm not sure will I will do with the Opty 165 or DFI Expert just yet. The RAM is spoken for already and I will be taking the PSU and 8800GT to the new rig. That will save me some cash.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Go bravely and blaze a trail for us, G.O.







You'll always be one of us.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Go bravely and blaze a trail for us, G.O.







You'll always be one of us.










Thanks Joe. I almost forgot to mention the main reason for switching







I'm trying to dabble in creating 3D illustrations and broaden my craft so I'm not stuck just doing comic book work. The Opty 165 does ok with 3D apps such as 3D StudioMax and Maya, but you can certainly tell it will be limited with the size of the projects. I'll need to upgrade the VidCard as well. I'll need something with a minimum of 1Gb but preferred 2Gb VidCard.


----------



## alexgheseger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Got some news guys. I'll in the nostalgic section during or just after March/April. I'll be heading to Phenom II 940 "maybe 920" with this DFI LP DK 790FXB-M2RSH AM2+. I have done a lot of thinking about 939 upgrades Vs new tech. There really isn't more I can upgrade on my current rig maybe other than the Vid Card.

My total upgrade to AM2+ will be about $550-$570 really depends on the actual price when the Phenom II is released.

I love my 939 rig, but I think it's time to move on. I'm not sure will I will do with the Opty 165 or DFI Expert just yet. The RAM is spoken for already and I will be taking the PSU and 8800GT to the new rig. That will save me some cash.


Trust me, you will absolutely adore the 790FXB







.

Anywho... Just wondering if i could get some insight on a little problem i've encountered. Story is, got my paws on a GA-K8NSC motherboard. It's an old Nforce 3 chipset with AGP. So, i thought i'd put my 3400+ venice and my X700 in it and make a nice little shop computer. Problem is, no POST. I've tried clearing the CMOS et al. and all the components are verified to work.

Now, that in and of itself would be boring, but here's where it gets interesting. I put my opty 175 in, and what do i get? I get a friendly POST screen.

Okay, so the 3400+ is borked right? Wrong. I pop it into my MS-7093, and it works fine.

Latest bioses and everything.

Sorry for the wall of text







.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pez, if you have Dremel or access to tools you could always modify the case









I did the same to Joe's Lian Li case. The modifications have been very rewarding.

Good luck



Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Hehe, free plugs FTW.

If I have time tonight, I'll show off some pictures of thlnk3r's work on my Lian Li PC-V1000B.







Oh, and some pictures of the first of my WC parts.









Ah, the P180. That was the first case my sig rig occupied. It looked great, but was a bit too cramped on the inside. Plus cable management was a bit of a challenge.

Hope you love yours, pez!










Yes, It's working!







. My 4 pin seemed like it was literally a half inch too short to run under the mobo, so I just put the mobo in screwed it in and there might be a slight bend in the mobo (not major), but I was reading that they're actually meant to flex a bit. Pics will have to wait til I find my phone or until tommorow when I get the really nice camera (parents have gone to bed). I'm really really happy with it though. A bit quieter and I def. don't hear that 10k RPM drive "thinking" anymore (BIG +). And this thing feels like a full tower it's about 133% of my Xion II mid tower. I do think despite the cable management holes missing, I did a pretty excellent job w/ it.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexgheseger*


Trust me, you will absolutely adore the 790FXB







.

Anywho... Just wondering if i could get some insight on a little problem i've encountered. Story is, got my paws on a GA-K8NSC motherboard. It's an old Nforce 3 chipset with AGP. So, i thought i'd put my 3400+ venice and my X700 in it and make a nice little shop computer. Problem is, no POST. I've tried clearing the CMOS et al. and all the components are verified to work.

Now, that in and of itself would be boring, but here's where it gets interesting. I put my opty 175 in, and what do i get? I get a friendly POST screen.

Okay, so the 3400+ is borked right? Wrong. I pop it into my MS-7093, and it works fine.

Latest bioses and everything.

Sorry for the wall of text







.


That is a WEIRD one, alex.









Any beep codes at all from the GA when the 3400+ is in?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexgheseger*


Okay, so the 3400+ is borked right? Wrong. I pop it into my MS-7093, and it works fine.


Check the 3400+ for a bent/broke pin.


----------



## alexgheseger

okay, so i have officially passed into idiothood. Socket the single core 4 times, nothing. Socket the dualie, works. Socket the single core again, kinda works.

Now it works, but reports clock speed at 200 Mhz...

As for the beeps, nada. (well, initially, now i just get the single happy beep.)

@ heuristic: Now, now it all makes sense. Coupla pins were out of whack. Bent them back, and all was well. But my question is why work with one and not the other?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexgheseger*


okay, so i have officially passed into idiothood. Socket the single core 4 times, nothing. Socket the dualie, works. Socket the single core again, kinda works.

Now it works, but reports clock speed at 200 Mhz...

As for the beeps, nada. (well, initially, now i just get the single happy beep.)

@ heuristic: Now, now it all makes sense. Coupla pins were out of whack. Bent them back, and all was well. But my question is why work with one and not the other?


Not all series pins are perfectly uniform. And some sockets can just be finicky.







But I think it's your dually causing the problem! You need to send it to me for extensive testing!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hue, you deserve a case of

*   
 



  



 
 *


----------



## Hueristic

LMAO, that is one funny vid!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, this is most impressive. I think this is the fastest reference clock speed I have seen yet!

Good job

Thanx









Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Ye gods! That is an *INSANE IN THE MEMBRANE* reference clock speed!









Erm, um, BlackOmega, what's your home address? I need yours (and thlnk3r's, too) for a home invasion robbery attempt...


















Lol







....Im in um.... Michiagn







. It'd would cost you more in gas to get here than I would sell it you for









I bound and determined (







) to get that CFX stable.









Im going to see if it'll go higher when I get my Corsair RAM back, that RAM seems to do fairly well above 200MHz.


----------



## GuardianOdin

BlackOmega!!!!!!!!! when I gets home, I'm going to see if I can post past 400. My DFI Claims it will climb to 500. Nice jorb!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
BlackOmega!!!!!!!!! when I gets home, I'm going to see if I can post past 400. My DFI Claims it will climb to 500. Nice jorb!









Thanx














I look forward to seeing your results.
Good luck.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Thanx














I look forward to seeing your results.
Good luck.









I have gotten to 389 before with no issues, of course I was trying for 3.1Ghz. I'll shoot for a lower Ghz this time.


----------



## Six-eyes-Sid

Heya

Silly MB. Been offline a week for a replacement 939 MB sli etc.. didn't think i had a hope and low and behold my local distro found me an exact match to my old a8n-sli, an aus refurnished one with an absolutley brand new asus cipset fan like new chrome on and old chopper.









anyway fired it up and i'm back no driver headaches with different chipset/board and the board only cost 113.50 NZ dollars not bad i thought.

I missed the results for the winter OC comp(sitting in his shorts sweating his ?) so a sorry and beleated congrats to the winna will trawl the thread later.

Sid


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Six-eyes, the contest is still going on.







It doesn't end until the end of the month.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


I have gotten to 389 before with no issues, of course I was trying for 3.1Ghz. I'll shoot for a lower Ghz this time.










 Nice, you should be able to hit 400 no prob then









Out of curiosity, what voltage are you running your opty @ to get 3.0, and since you've stripped it what are your load temps.

I've noticed that since Ive popped the lid off the 3500+ that while my idle temps really arent any different, load temps seem to be a lot better.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Nice, you should be able to hit 400 no prob then









Out of curiosity, what voltage are you running your opty @ to get 3.0, and since you've stripped it what are your load temps.

I've noticed that since Ive popped the lid off the 3500+ that while my idle temps really aren't any different, load temps seem to be a lot better.


Mmmm...about 1.56V. Since I removed the lid and running at 1.56Volts I normally see between 52c-60c on load at 3024Mhz.

I really noticed a temp difference when I adjusted the Big Typhoon with some wire "to sit correctly" My temps dropped 5c. I use AS5 and I can not stress enough to let it cure before running stress tests to check temps.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Mmmm...about 1.56V. Since I removed the lid and running at 1.56Volts I normally see between 52c-60c on load at 3024Mhz.

I really noticed a temp difference when I adjusted the Big Typhoon with some wire "to sit correctly" My temps dropped 5c. I use AS5 and I can not stress enough to let it cure before running stress tests to check temps.


 Wow thats actually not bad considering the vcore. How'd you affix your BT to the board? Did you use the provided H bracket? I used the H bracket on my CFX board, it seems to work very well. Hell at stock voltages on my opty180, Ill regularly see temps considerably higher than that.







Might have to pop the top off of my opty 165.

And what do you consider proper burn in time? I heard as much as 200 hours, what do you think?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Wow thats actually not bad considering the vcore. How'd you affix your BT to the board? Did you use the provided H bracket? I used the H bracket on my CFX board, it seems to work very well. Hell at stock voltages on my opty180, Ill regularly see temps considerably higher than that.







Might have to pop the top off of my opty 165.

And what do you consider proper burn in time? I heard as much as 200 hours, what do you think?


I'm using the H bracket that came with it and then I have a string/wire tied to the top then connected to the case so it does not hang.

200 hours is an ample amount of burn in time. I see a lot of people using AS5 and complaining it doesn't work well. Those would be the same people that do not let it cure.







I'll normally reset the heat sink and then just let my rig fold for week 1/2 to 2 weeks. Then I'll start running my stress tests and benches. That way it has a constant load that isn't to much, but just enough. That's just my 2 cents though


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz, I don't think Joe mentioned anything about "AM2+" so I'm a bit confused.

Anyways, let's not confuse Dani









To make me seem less like an idiot:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
dani9998, most of the principles and concepts of overclocking AM2 and S939 platforms are the same (for non-Phenom CPUs, I mean)....

The "non-Phenom CPU" comment was superfluous. Phenoms are not AM2s, nor are they K8s.

Cappy: Welcome aboard. I will add you and Vicarious (liability?) to the off-site roster sometime in the nearish future.

GuardianOdin: You should not be too disappointed with the DK 790FXB-M2RSH. I have the DK 790FX-M2RS (same NB; SB600 southbridge instead of a SB750) and have but a few complaints.

alexgheseger: I have a GA-K8NSC-939. When it works, it is a nice motherboard; the first board I ever overclocked. However, unless your luck is better than mine, expect it to die a few times. I will testify that the socket is a little annoying to get the CPU into: the hardest *Z*IF I ever had.

Six-eyes-Sid: As Joe said: you have until 01/31/2009 to submit entries.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
And what do you consider proper burn in time? I heard as much as 200 hours, what do you think?

It depends what TIM you are using. Arctic Silver 5 needs 200 hours. Other compounds (Shin Etsu for example) require none.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey every one, I'm back from vacation and noticed way to many post for me to try and read through in order to catch up with what has been going on. Heck it seems like only yesterday we were on page 939







Any way I'd like to give a belated welcome to all the new members.


----------



## Six-eyes-Sid

Lordy i took my IHS off with a feeler guage slipped in well also, did the trick but it slipped off some component from the top of the cpu. like an IC or something 8 pins.

Still it's booted and still runs well.

/sob

Comps on eh.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexgheseger*


=Just wondering if i could get some insight on a little problem i've encountered. Story is, got my paws on a GA-K8NSC motherboard. It's an old Nforce 3 chipset with AGP. So, i thought i'd put my *3400+ venice* and my X700 in it and make a nice little shop computer. Problem is, no POST. I've tried clearing the CMOS et al. and all the components are verified to work.

Now, that in and of itself would be boring, but here's where it gets interesting. I put my opty 175 in, and what do i get? I get a friendly POST screen.


Alexgheseger, not sure if this helps at all but according to the CPU Support page for this motherboard, the 3400+ Venice is not listed. This of course could only mean it wasn't "officially" supported.

Good luck

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


The "non-Phenom CPU" comment was superfluous. Phenoms are not AM2s, nor are they K8s.


Blitz, I don't think it really matters. Perhaps Joe was just stating that ("non-phenom cpus") so the user wouldn't get confused with AM2 and AM2+. So individuals that are new to the community do not know the distinction between the two.


----------



## pez

My beast!!!


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


My beast!!!


It looks great. Makes me wish I had one








All nice and tidy. Deserves some rep actually.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


My beast!!!


FOLD On those Puppy's!!!





































Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


It looks great. Makes me wish I had one








All nice and tidy. Deserves some rep actually.










I'll rep him when I see them putting out PPD.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


My beast!!!


Pez, very nice job...looks clean!

The P180 is a nice case from Antec.

Keep it up


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


My beast!!!


 looks nice Pez







. Is that a full or mid tower?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Six-eyes-Sid*


Lordy i took my IHS off with a feeler guage slipped in well also, did the trick but it slipped off some component from the top of the cpu. like an IC or something 8 pins.

Still it's booted and still runs well.

/sob

Comps on eh.


 O dang....was that on your FX60?!? Those things are still going for $300 on ebay.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 

200 hours is an ample amount of burn in time. I see a lot of people using AS5 and complaining it doesn't work well. Those would be the same people that do not let it cure.







I'll normally reset the heat sink and then just let my rig fold for week 1/2 to 2 weeks. Then I'll start running my stress tests and benches. That way it has a constant load that isn't to much, but just enough. That's just my 2 cents though


Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
It depends what TIM you are using. Arctic Silver 5 needs 200 hours. Other compounds (Shin Etsu for example) require none.

Well I did some reading about TIM's last night and I think Im going to try that OCZ freeze which requires no cure time. And it did better than AS5. And for someone like me who's constantly changing cpus' or coolers between boards, or having to pull the cooler the get at the RAM, AS5 is ok, but not ideal.
Here's the review I read, I read a few others, while AS5 is a very good TIM if you put your rig together and leave it that way. But I think the 200 hour cure time is excessive. Not to mention you actually have to heat cycle it several times, allowing it to cool to room temperature, figure it could take 2 weeks or more to get it cycled properly. I dunno about you guys, but Ive got better things to do with my free time than heat cycle my CPU to get the TIM to cure properly.
And what if you fold? You'll put your rig together, get it going for how ever long with out shutting it off. You'd in essence never actually heat cycle it. So would it not cure properly at that point? It seems like its more trouble than its worth when you could get a TIM that works better right out of the box.

As I was writing this I ran across a couple of other reviews and it seems that the Tuniq TX2 does better than AS5. Ill have to do a little more research as for cure time on that.

I might just order a tube of each and do my own benchmark. Using 3 different coolers Stock, my Lapped BT and the Thermalright xp120.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I might just order a tube of each and do my own benchmark. Using 3 different coolers Stock, my Lapped BT and the Thermalright xp120.









BlackOmega, that I would really like to see. Thank you for posting that info and including the link. Interesting comparison









If you decide to do your own then good luck. I look forward to the results


----------



## Blitz6804

I do not know BlackOmega; I can usually see my AS5 curing (in the form of decreasing temperatures over the course of two weeks) but I am biased in that AS5 is the only non-AMD TIM I have ever used.

Off-topic: despite having braces earlier in my life, it turns out they need to go on again. And then I need jaw surgery (sometime this summer) to make my teeth line up again. So... I am not happy to be sure. (But having my jaw wired shut for about six weeks should be good for weight loss.)

For those of you following my 3850/AA issue; I finally got ahold of Diamond again. They told me to hurry up and wait. Joy.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 

For those of you following my 3850/AA issue; I finally got ahold of Diamond again. They told me to hurry up and wait. Joy.

Link?

AFA the Jaw, I feel your pain. I got mine broke in 2 places a couple years ago and didn't want to get it wired so I clenched it for 3 months straight. What a PITA! On the bright side my teeth line up better than before.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I do not know BlackOmega; I can usually see my AS5 curing (in the form of decreasing temperatures over the course of two weeks) but I am biased in that AS5 is the only non-AMD TIM I have ever used.

Off-topic: despite having braces earlier in my life, it turns out they need to go on again. And then I need jaw surgery (sometime this summer) to make my teeth line up again. So... I am not happy to be sure. (But having my jaw wired shut for about six weeks should be good for weight loss.)

For those of you following my 3850/AA issue; I finally got ahold of Diamond again. They told me to hurry up and wait. Joy.


LOL

wow that's gonna be some fun, drinking your food through a straw and intravenously in your veins. I'm not envious at all for that but I'm sure you'll come out with a perfect lawyer smile. Then you'll be able to say things to your clients like this "Sure I can win your case just look at this smile" I'm so silly hope it all goes well for you with that. I had a dentist tell me that I needed a cheek bone surgery so I opted to keep on keeping on just the way I am no surgery on my face please. You may pull my teeth but that's as far as any doctor is going in my mouth.


----------



## pez

Pio is actually going to get me started this weekend on folding b/c I asked him too







. It'll be folding for probably at least 6 hours a day while I'm at school. And the P180 is actually a mid tower case lol, thought it's much larger. It's called an "Advanced Mid-Tower Case". I love the tricool fans a lot. On high, they actually bring my cpu idle temps down about 3-4 degrees, and same for the GPU's.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Pio is actually going to get me started this weekend on folding b/c I asked him too







. It'll be folding for probably at least 6 hours a day while I'm at school. And the P180 is actually a mid tower case lol, thought it's much larger. It's called an "Advanced Mid-Tower Case". I love the tricool fans a lot. On high, they actually bring my cpu idle temps down about 3-4 degrees, and same for the GPU's.


Ahh another Addict on the hook!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, that I would really like to see. Thank you for posting that info and including the link. Interesting comparison









If you decide to do your own then good luck. I look forward to the results










 I will most definitely do a write up with pics and all. I plan on build a complete new rig sometime in the near future. Im still undecided wether I should go intel or AMD. Im kind of leaning towards an intel/ATi getup. 
At any rate when I do the write up Ill try to use all 3 of my boards and all 3 of my CPU's. Unfortunately I wont be able to use the stock HS on the naked 3500. And Ill try use the new rig if I can. Im going to be moving within the next 2 weeks. So it'll have to wait till then. And Ill even try to get a hold of the TIM guys special grease.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I do not know BlackOmega; I can usually see my AS5 curing (in the form of decreasing temperatures over the course of two weeks) but I am biased in that AS5 is the only non-AMD TIM I have ever used.

Off-topic: despite having braces earlier in my life, it turns out they need to go on again. And then I need jaw surgery (sometime this summer) to make my teeth line up again. So... I am not happy to be sure. (But having my jaw wired shut for about six weeks should be good for weight loss.)

For those of you following my 3850/AA issue; I finally got ahold of Diamond again. They told me to hurry up and wait. Joy.


 As far as TIM's go I'm starting to think AS5 is slightly over rated. Well, perhaps not over rated, but just more trouble than it's worth. Its not that Im lazy, but since I'm in school and a dad I dont really have time to wonder if my TIM is cured so I can OC. While its not bad (as thats what Im using now), I swap out different CPUs to see which ones do better on what board. So I'd MUCH rather have a TIM that doesnt need to cure or at the very most, cures in a couple of hours. Not to mention the other 2 TIM's that I want to test do NOT conduct electricity. Which is another bonus, in case you missed a small dab of goo on one of the pins. Hopefully Ill be able to test 4 different TIMs, Ill keep everyone posted.









Sorry to hear about your jaw. Cant they just give you a retainer?







I too had braces as a kid and personally I think they caused more problems than they "cured". I had my braces on for an unusally long period, something like 3.5 years. And when I did finally get them removed, I literally had a cavity underneath every single brace







. So in addition to the thousands that my parents spent on the braces, they had to spend thousands more on getting my teeth fixed. Then as an adult Ive spent another $1000 on them.
















But I guess thats the price we pay for a little bit of vanity. but it seems the newer technology has come a long way. My son is more than likely going to need some sort of teeth straightening, hopefully he'll be able to use a removable device.

But good luck with you toofs









PS: When you get your jaw wired shut, drink a lot of protein shakes


----------



## Blitz6804

I had on rubber bands to restrict my lower jaw from growing (I had an underbite.) After two years of braces, the underbite was fixed. The retainer did hold it for a while, but the underbite came back worse than when I first got braces on. I also had an upper crossbite (requiring a palette expander for a year; overlapping with the braces for 6 months) but that is still fine. All my teeth are lined up great on each jaw, but my upper jaw is a tooth behind the lower. The upper back molars touch nothing, the next ones touch the lower back molars, the bicuspids hit molars, et cetera. The braces here are not for vanity, but for medical necessity. (The misaligned teeth are causing digestion issues.)

I do not wait for my TIM to cure before overclocking. If you have to worry about the 3-4Âº C drop you get via curing, perhaps you need a better cooling solution to start with. Then again, so far, all my overclocks have either been voltage-limited or hardware limited; not temperature limited.

How bad is it to run a CPU at 1.400 V instead of 1.350 V in terms of life expectancy? Anyone know?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


How bad is it to run a CPU at 1.400 V instead of 1.350 V in terms of life expectancy? Anyone know?


Blitz, as far as I know there isn't any documentation showing the difference between the different voltages and life expectancy. It's more of an opinion. I don't think 0.050 is a huge difference. As long as proper cooling is in place then there shouldn't be anything to worry about. Now going from 1.350 to 1.6volts is a different story...

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I had on rubber bands to restrict my lower jaw from growing (I had an underbite.) After two years of braces, the underbite was fixed. The retainer did hold it for a while, but the underbite came back worse than when I first got braces on. I also had an upper crossbite (requiring a palette expander for a year; overlapping with the braces for 6 months) but that is still fine. All my teeth are lined up great on each jaw, but my upper jaw is a tooth behind the lower. The upper back molars touch nothing, the next ones touch the lower back molars, the bicuspids hit molars, et cetera. The braces here are not for vanity, but for medical necessity. (The misaligned teeth are causing digestion issues.)

I do not wait for my TIM to cure before overclocking. If you have to worry about the 3-4Âº C drop you get via curing, perhaps you need a better cooling solution to start with. Then again, so far, all my overclocks have either been voltage-limited or hardware limited; not temperature limited.

How bad is it to run a CPU at 1.400 V instead of 1.350 V in terms of life expectancy? Anyone know?


 Well in that case that is a medical necessity. Hope everything works out for you







. Mine were more for my parents vanity and prestige. Their son couldnt have crooked teeth







.

Sometimes that 3-4* difference could be the difference between a stable and unstable OC,









As for the longevity issue since most AMDs are rated @ 1.35/1.40, I cant see it diminishing its lifespan. Even @ higher voltages, if the temps are OK then that shouldnt make much of a difference either.


----------



## nategr8ns

blitz, most people I know have braces and tell me that "their teeth don't work without them!" blahblahblah. It seems that you have a valid reason for braces. I wanted them for a while because my front teeth (top and bottom) are kind of crooked and overlap a bit at their edges (the front 4-6 teeth in both sets) back in middle school. Now, in high school, I don't really want them any more







.


----------



## Hueristic

I have a bottom tooth that got pushed out and works as a perfect wire stripper. I tell everyone I have evolved to solder!


----------



## TestECull

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
I have a bottom tooth that got pushed out and works as a perfect wire stripper. I tell everyone I have evolved to solder!










You sound like you belong on TV commercians in Rapture!


----------



## N2Gaming

I had a spacer installed all it did was damage my molars.









So how are those suicides coming???


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I had a spacer installed all it did was damage my molars.









So how are those suicides coming???


 Crappy I think I overheated my 3500 now it wont get past 2850







. But on the plus side its perfectly stable @ 2700. Think I might go get that other one for $30 and try again with that.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


You sound like you belong on TV commercians in Rapture!


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Ahh another Addict on the hook!









Haha yeah, I've been saying I'm going to do it, but all the Sticky's on the forum even confused me, so i asked pio if he'd help me get started. My CPU might not produce that well, but from what I've read here and there, a pair of decently OC'ed 98GT's can







.

EDIT: 10 posts until 2k posts :O.


----------



## foe

Hello fellows, I've: (Venice) AMD Athlon 64 3000+ @ 2.43Ghz on stock Voltage and cooling (35% overclock)
Is that a decent overclock?


----------



## Blitz6804

Foe: In my opinion, ANY overclock is nice: it is free performance! In your case, you have made your 3000+ into a 3800+. Congratulations.

pez: If you only wish to fold on one card, it is simple. Install the GUI GPU client, run it, you are done. If you wish to fold on two cards, you either need a second monitor or a null video plug. Turn off SLI. Run a GPU client with the -1 flag and another with the -2 flag. The flags correspond to cards 0 and 1 respectively. (I do not remember how exactly to make the flags to be properly set up, but Pioneer can steer you that way I am sure.)


----------



## pez

Ugh, I'm gonna have to turn off SLI to fold? -_- You think they would've optimized it for SLI by now.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


You sound like you belong on TV commercians in Rapture!


BioShock?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
BioShock?









I couldn't play it, The shader error with DX9.c, Is there a youtube vid of it? You got me intrigued now!


----------



## HothBase

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=480642
Not too shabby for a VIA chipset, eh?









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
I couldn't play it, The shader error with DX9.c, Is there a youtube vid of it? You got me intrigued now!









Don't know any good videos. I've got the game but I'm not very far in the story yet.


----------



## HothBase

I'm currently trying to get the most out of my computer:









As you can see I'm running my HyperTransport Link at x2.
If I try setting it to x3 (~900MHz) It simply won't pass POST. It tells me that my OC failed sends me back into BIOS.
I'm not exactly used to HTLs causing failure when kept below 1GHz, any suggestions?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

HothBase, is there a way for you to increase voltage for your HTLink/LDT? You could also try a voltage increase (remember to do this incrementally) for your chipset as well.

Good luck.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
HothBase, is there a way for you to increase voltage for your HTLink/LDT? You could also try a voltage increase (remember to do this incrementally) for your chipset as well.

Good luck.









I'll see if I can find anything on HTLink/LDT.
I have already tried increasing the chipset voltage from 2.5v to 2.6v (those two are the only ones I can choose between) and it didn't help.


----------



## timxirish

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Foe: In my opinion, ANY overclock is nice: it is free performance! In your case, you have made your 3000+ into a 3800+. Congratulations.

This is the exact mentality that drew me to the (dare I say







) art of overclocking. Certainly I may not have the best results right now, but in time I'll learn more and enable myself to push my proccessor even further.

...speaking of which, I need to get an updated CPU-Z for my Opty. My previous one ended up not being as stable as I figured. After a week of having my PC on and multiple apps open and closed, I started noticing stability issues (was running hot, so probably needs better cooling) and had to lower the FSB a bit.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
I'll see if I can find anything on HTLink/LDT.
I have already tried increasing the chipset voltage from 2.5v to 2.6v (those two are the only ones I can choose between) and it didn't help.

What is your RAM's frequency at that reference clock speed?


----------



## alexgheseger

thanks for all the help guys







.

I'm actually starting to like this K8NSC. Just a quick tweak, and i had the venice running
@ 2420 Mhz, stock volts. Nothing special i admit, but it's just another glorified browser rig, so anything is gravy.

But i might just see what I can get out of it


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
What is your RAM's frequency at that reference clock speed?

Not too high.
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=480844


----------



## click here

does anyone have a 939 cpu that they are willing to pass up for free? I currently have a 3800+ 2.4 ghz single core and it is getting killed.


----------



## HothBase

I'm now 100% sure there is no option in the BIOS for adjusting my HyperTransport voltage.
All I've got is CPU, Mem, Chipset and AGP voltage.
I haven't tried adjusting the AGP voltage (1.5v/1.6v) but I daren't do so before I know that it is safe. Think it might be of any use to try?

A 600MHz HyperTransport won't exactly bottleneck my rig by any noticeable means though, at least not from what I have gathered.


----------



## timxirish

Quote:



Originally Posted by *click here*


does anyone have a 939 cpu that they are willing to pass up for free? I currently have a 3800+ 2.4 ghz single core and it is getting killed.


If I had a replacement for it, possibly my Athlon 64 3500+ venice.. but that's currently in my lan/backup machine. Plus that appears to be a bit of a downgrade in comparison to what you've got now.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


A 600MHz HyperTransport won't exactly bottleneck my rig by any noticeable means though, at least not from what I have gathered.


Hothbase, you may run into random BSOD's or lockups. In my experience, anything below 680-700Mhz would show instability. Is there a reason why you can't run the HT multiplier at 3x? That would bring you to 900Mhz and still allow for more overclocking room.

Good luck


----------



## HothBase

3x HT multiplier works just fine as long as the HTT is below 270. (810MHz HyperTransport)
If I try the 3x together with anything above 270 it refuses to boot.

The funny thing is that I'm writing this at a HTT of 275 and a multiplier of 4x (1100MHz)
Any HyperTransport between 400 - 1100MHz works just fine *as long as I don't use the 3x multiplier.*
I find this odd and quite annoying as it kinda ruins my optimal OC for this rig.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


The funny thing is that I'm writing this at a HTT of 275 and a multiplier of 4x (1100MHz)
Any HyperTransport between 400 - 1100MHz works just fine *as long as I don't use the 3x multiplier.*
I find this odd and quite annoying as it kinda ruins my optimal OC for this rig.










Hothbase, that is interesting. Not that it makes any sense to suggest this but an voltage increase for your HT might help but if I remember correctly you said there wasn't any voltage adjustments for your HT? Perhaps Blitz can help. He did some extensive testing with the different HT speeds.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Much above 850 MHz is insignificant in my testing. (Some of which was done with my nForce3-chipsetted board, id est, my GA-K8NSC-939.) My GA-K8NSC-939, armed with a Skt754-era northbridge, could not use a 5x multiplier. 4x gave me 800 MHz at stock. From 800 MHz to 900 MHz, there was a massive increase in the "felt speed" of the computer. From 900 MHz to 1000 MHz, there was little.

For a more-empirical test, done on my Brisbane, I can give you exact numbers (5400+ BE on a 790FX with an HD 3850):

750 MHz: 28s to boot; 9582 3DMarks
1000 MHz: 27s to boot; 9715 3DMarks
1250 MHz: 31s to boot; 9633 3DMarks
1250 MHz (increased VHT): 26s to boot; 9730 3DMarks

So we see that with a 1250 MHz HyperTransport, my system was not perfectly stable without adding a bump to its voltage. If your system does not have a voltage setting for the HyperTransport, try increasing the northbridge and/or the CPU a step.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Hothbase, that is interesting. Not that it makes any sense to suggest this but an voltage increase for your HT might help but if I remember correctly you said there wasn't any voltage adjustments for your HT? Perhaps Blitz can help. He did some extensive testing with the different HT speeds.

Good luck










Thanks, I'm kinda giving up for today. I'm really tired cause I haven't slept much at all the last few days with going back to school and all.
Just gonna let Prime do some work to see if this OC might be worth keeping, even though I dislike the fact that I'll have to run my RAM at 183MHz and loose almost 1GB/s in bandwidth.
I'm gaining a lot as far as CPU goes though. What's that joe usually says? CPU speed is king?
Someone please tell me which of these is to be preferred, I'm gonna go bed now anyway.











Oh, and hello blitz, I'll try to figure out what you just said tomorrow when my brain isn't 90% underclocked. A good night to you all.


----------



## Blitz6804

Thlnk3r is actually Mr. CPU-Speed-Is-King. I personally am Mr. Bandwidth-is-Almost-as-Important-as-CPU-Speed, but my data is not entirely empirical. Given the choice between two equal CPU speeds, always go for the greater RAM bandwidth. Given non-equal speeds, testing is required. Instinct would say the better one is the CPU running 2750. That said, it might be possible to change the RAM on that one to make your bandwidth improve a fuzz. Can 2-2-2-5 run stable? What is the tRC / tRFC set to on both?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Thlnk3r is actually Mr. CPU-Speed-Is-King. I personally am Mr. Bandwidth-is-Almost-as-Important-as-CPU-Speed, but my data is not entirely empirical.

Blitz, I think it's blatantly obvious that processor speed is the king. By the way, that quote didn't actually come from me


----------



## BlackOmega

Blitz and th|nk3r,
You both are right!







While CPU is king, it is nothing without bandwidth. I learned that a long time ago with my socket 423 P4. While sure it has a 2.0ghz CPU the bandwidth is SO low that it is slower than molasses on a cold day. The socket 939 has literally 20x the bandwidth of the 423 P4.

And hoth dont worry so much about mem speed. Believe it or not Im running mine right now at 130mhz and while I was playing CSS tonight, I consistantly was faster than Q6600 based machines. Mind you Im using my 3500+ @ 2600mhz. So a single core @ 2600 with RAM @ 130 mhz was beating out a Q6600 @ 2.4 with memoery @ 400mhz.









And as far as my new rig is concerned, I think I might actually go with AMD once again







its depending on monies. I put together a rig... lemme know what you guys think.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

BlackOmega, a man after my own heart.









I favor as balanced and as optimized a setup as possible. If I can have high-enough CPU speed, RAM bandwidth, RAM timings (as low as possible) AND stability in one setup, that's what I'd go for with an everyday machine.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
BlackOmega, a man after my own heart.









I favor as balanced and as optimized a setup as possible. If I can have high-enough CPU speed, RAM bandwidth, RAM timings (as low as possible) AND stability in one setup, that's what I'd go for with an everyday machine.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Blitz and th|nk3r, 
You both are right!







While CPU is king, it is nothing without bandwidth. I learned that a long time ago with my socket 423 P4. While sure it has a 2.0ghz CPU the bandwidth is SO low that it is slower than molasses on a cold day. The socket 939 has literally 20x the bandwidth of the 423 P4.

And hoth dont worry so much about mem speed. Believe it or not Im running mine right now at 130mhz and while I was playing CSS tonight, I consistantly was faster than Q6600 based machines. Mind you Im using my 3500+ @ 2600mhz. So a single core @ 2600 with RAM @ 130 mhz was beating out a Q6600 @ 2.4 with memoery @ 400mhz.









And as far as my new rig is concerned, I think I might actually go with AMD once again







its depending on monies. I put together a rig... lemme know what you guys think.


I think you should get at least a x3 or x4. Wouldn't really be worth spending the money if you already have a rig that can basically do what that one does.


----------



## TestECull

Quote:


Originally Posted by *click here* 
does anyone have a 939 cpu that they are willing to pass up for free? I currently have a 3800+ 2.4 ghz single core and it is getting killed.


Try this.

It gave me quite a boost when I still had my single.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
I think you should get at least a x3 or x4. Wouldn't really be worth spending the money if you already have a rig that can basically do what that one does.

Well the whole reason for going with that CPU is basically its the cheapest AM2+ cpu. Id like to get the phenom II but theyre almost $300 for the 3.0 ghz one. I figure Id get that one OC the bejesus out of it and run it until the PhenomII's dropped in price a little. Or until I sell some of my 939 stuff, and of course Id give you guys first dibs








Mind you that build already costs $1175. I think if I added another $200 to it my wife would





















. Then Id have to







.









Maybe, I should just get the PhenomII


----------



## Hueristic

PHII is $270 delivered in the for sale section!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
PHII is $270 delivered in the for sale section!

But you can get a new one for that though. On the egg they had em for $275+ shipping. I'd always rather buy new than used


----------



## pez

Just get the 2.8 for 235 free shipping and OC it 200mhz lol. It'll already be faster at 2.8 than your CPU at 3.0ghz b/c it's got more cache. And the fact that it's a quad core will already give it an advantage.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Just get the 2.8 for 235 free shipping and OC it 200mhz lol. It'll already be faster at 2.8 than your CPU at 3.0ghz b/c it's got more cache. And the fact that it's a quad core will already give it an advantage.


If it was up to me I'd get the X4 940. The unlocked multiplier is worth the extra $40 in my opinion.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Phenom II is very exciting, but an almost immutable "rule" when it comes to chips is that the first steppings are almost never as good as later steppings eventually become. Not only that, but they'll also come down in price. Being a cheapo bastige like me, that's ALWAYS a great thing.









Translation: Curb your enthusiasm for now and wait for later revisions if your intention is to overclock your chip; you'll likely get far better results.


----------



## simfreak47

I want to join!









Here is my latest OC. Note, no options for HTT in BIOS. Fail.








That's my X2.

Here is my old CPU.


----------



## Hueristic

Sum Sim!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Phenom II is very exciting, but an almost immutable "rule" when it comes to chips is that the first steppings are almost never as good as later steppings eventually become. Not only that, but they'll also come down in price. Being a cheapo bastige like me, that's ALWAYS a great thing.









Translation: Curb your enthusiasm for now and wait for later revisions if your intention is to overclock your chip; you'll likely get far better results.









Yet another reason to wait







That and I wont feel bad if I fry a $58 CPU


----------



## timxirish

Exactly. Overclocking is fun, but you'd totally lose the rush if you fried something that nice.

The way I see it is, so long as I can keep up with _most_ of the latest games' requirements and be at least mostly satisfied.. Then that works for me. I can play Left 4 Dead, so I'm happy.







... But I could use a bit more juice out of my opty. Currently at 2.61GHz, according to XP's System Properties window.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *timxirish* 
Exactly. Overclocking is fun, but you'd totally lose the rush if you fried something that nice.

The way I see it is, so long as I can keep up with _most_ of the latest games' requirements and be at least mostly satisfied.. Then that works for me. I can play Left 4 Dead, so I'm happy.







... But I could use a bit more juice out of my opty. Currently at 2.61GHz, according to XP's System Properties window.

Yeah, I can play Fallout 3, Mass Effect, Prince of Persia, GTA IV, BioShock etc. at 1280x1024 & Medium graphics without any lag at all (even though GTA has quite low FPS and has to be run @1024x768).
Only reason for me to buy a new computer would be if I wanted to max out the graphics settings, which I don't care too much about.
Socket 939 is definitely not too old for anything I would like to do.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Phenom II is very exciting, but an almost immutable "rule" when it comes to chips is that the first steppings are almost never as good as later steppings eventually become. Not only that, but they'll also come down in price. Being a cheapo bastige like me, that's ALWAYS a great thing.










Translation: Curb your enthusiasm for now and wait for later revisions if your intention is to overclock your chip; you'll likely get far better results.










So do you think they will release the phenom II 940 BE for a lengthy period of time. I was under the impression that they would only produce so many and it might be like a limited thing and once they are gone, they are gone forever. I'm not trying to scare any one in to buying one just hoping some one here may be able to shed some light on this toppic for me.

Oh I finally made it out to sac to get a burned copy of my os on disk.


----------



## timxirish

Well, in my opinion, regardless if it's limited edition or not, I don't think it would matter in the long run. Something bigger and better will come out, and realisitcally, it won't be limited..

If a limited edition run of a chip is what AMD is out to do, well.. It's smart marketing, because they ought to know people are going to jump all over that.. But later it's not going to matter so much.









I say don't stress it. I stressed getting a v1.1 Xbox for the longest time, finally got one and had my hack related kicks with it (1.1 benefits: 4x256k/2x512k TSOP chip for multibios w/SPDT switches, no faulty usb daughterboard and a passive GPU heatsink)... And now I rarely use it.







. Was and still is great hardware, but it's silly how quick I lost interest. It was a fun little project though. Even got around to upgrade the cooling in it.









Bottom line is, if you nab one, you'll get your kicks and find enjoyment.. But even if you don't, you'll find that as well eventually.

EDIT: Time to reboot, test my OC with S&M and nab a new CPU-Z screenie


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *timxirish* 
Well, in my opinion, regardless if it's limited edition or not, I don't think it would matter in the long run. Something bigger and better will come out, and realisitcally, it won't be limited..

If a limited edition run of a chip is what AMD is out to do, well.. It's smart marketing, because they ought to know people are going to jump all over that.. But later it's not going to matter so much.









I say don't stress it. I stressed getting a v1.1 Xbox for the longest time, finally got one and had my hack related kicks with it (1.1 benefits: 4x256k/2x512k TSOP chip for multibios w/SPDT switches, no faulty usb daughterboard and a passive GPU heatsink)... And now I rarely use it.







. Was and still is great hardware, but it's silly how quick I lost interest. It was a fun little project though. Even got around to upgrade the cooling in it.









Bottom line is, if you nab one, you'll get your kicks and find enjoyment.. But even if you don't, you'll find that as well eventually.

Thanks, and when I look at it from your perspective I feel at ease that I'm not rushing out to get another amd cpu just yet. Some one has to do it though so that AMD will stay a float and be around for many years to come.









Interesting, I have a question for you about my Xbox. Every time I use my xbox I can play any xbox game in it but when I try to eject the game to play another game the button in front turns from green to red and the screen on the tv tells me to have the xbox serviced. After the xbox has cooled off say a 1/2 day or so it will work just fine again. I thinking it is related to a fan inside. what's your take on this?


----------



## timxirish

Well.. Since MS no longer offically supports the original ones anymore, there's no reason not to crack that warranty seal.. So my first suggestion is to check to see if you have two passive heatsinks, or one passive and one w/a fan. Power the system on and if you do have a heatsink w/a fan, check to make sure both that and the exaust one are working. After that, try a differerent (and probably more reliable) IDE cable. Certainly could be a DVD or HDD problem, but IDE is the first to try. All DVD/HDD related error codes can be caused by a bad IDE cable, DVD drive or HDD.. despite there being different specific codes for each (minus IDE). PM me if you have more questions, and be sure to let me know what your error code number is (two digits-- top corner of the screen); I've done a lot of Xbox troubleshooting in my past.









Now back on topic... How bout that new CPU-Z Validation? And the first non club officer to confirm an overclock stability with S&M?









CPU-Z:



S&M:




If I have to do a 100% load test in S&M to qualify, I'll redo the test.


----------



## BlackOmega

Tim what kind of temps are you getting with it @ 85%?


----------



## pioneerisloud

You should change it to 100% load, and "Long" tests instead of "Average". You can also disable the HDD tests as well (not really necessary).

Make sure you grab BOTH sliders for the test lengths. Memory and CPU should both be set to "Long".


----------



## timxirish

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Tim what kind of temps are you getting with it @ 85%?


CPU and PWM IC were around 50C, and chipset was about 45-47C if I remember correctly.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


You should change it to 100% load, and "Long" tests instead of "Average". You can also disable the HDD tests as well (not really necessary).

Make sure you grab BOTH sliders for the test lengths. Memory and CPU should both be set to "Long".


Can do. Be back with updated results in a bit.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *timxirish*


CPU and PWM IC were around 50C, and chipset was about 45-47C if I remember correctly.


 Youre using smart guardian arent you? Those temps are inaccurate. Add about 10 and youll have the real CPU core temp.

Or you can download coretemp, and monitor the actual core.


----------



## timxirish

Yep, I was using Smartguardian. I've heard it wasn't accurate in the past, but I assumed it was because it wasn't optimized for my buddy's mobo, versus my own which came with it (he was getting 110C from Smartguardian; i forget what mobo _he_ had though..). I'll nab coretemp before i hit start, thanks.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *timxirish*


Yep, I was using Smartguardian. I've heard it wasn't accurate in the past, but I assumed it was because it wasn't optimized for my buddy's mobo, versus my own which came with it (he was getting 110C from Smartguardian; i forget what mobo _he_ had though..). I'll nab coretemp before i hit start, thanks.











No prob, Im actually using a DFI lanparty myself (I have 3 rigs), and I watch coretemp and smartguardian at the same time, its way off. S&M also has its own temp monitor, its actually pretty close to coretemp. Click the monitor tab then click the > thing and itll expand the monitor window.


----------



## timxirish

Heh, yeah that's what I'm doing right now (coretemp + smartguardian side by side). So far so good 15 minutes in, but it'll be 80 more minutes 'til it's finished. Temps were around 67C for a good 8 minutes (at least on core #1), but now they're calming down a bit. Popped open my case's side panel and have a window open. So long as things don't hit 70C or higher, I'm at ease.









Also, thanks for the expanded monitor window tip. Saw the arrow, but I didn't want to go clicking blindly.

EDIT: Success. And this time I have a snapshot of the results window instead.











Here's the CPU-Z from the last page (and yes, I know.. It's lower than my previous CPU-Z validation.. last one wasn't stable







):

Also, here's a snapshot with the memory tab.


----------



## pez

As said, 939 rigs are more than capable still. I run all the games I play maxed out, and each one is playable (of course except crysis), but everything else I own, I can max out and play w/ nothing to complain about. (And mind you, this is at 1680x1050).


----------



## simfreak47

My rig could play Crysis Warhead on medium at 1024 x 768 with my old Athlon 64


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *timxirish*


Here's the CPU-Z from the last page (and yes, I know.. It's lower than my previous CPU-Z validation.. last one wasn't stable










Timxirish, trying changing the command rate from 1T to 2T and lower the memory divider. That should give you some more overclocking room with your processor. Currently you are 17Mhz overclocked with the memory frequency. The sub-timings could also be loosened a tad, 2-3-2-5 1T is pretty tight.

Are you running the stock chipset voltage (1.5volts)?

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Not to make you run it again timxirish, but I do not suppose you took a screen with the CPU-Z open with the S&M passed? If not, I will amend as-is. Congratulations on being S&M stable!

Vicarious, cappy, and simfreak47: I have not forgotten about you, I just have not been around much lately.


----------



## HothBase

Hey guys, since my 3x HT Link won't work I'm gonna try going as far as I can on the 4x.
I've been running my HTL at 1100MHz for a day now and it's stable as far as I know.

Are there any risks I should know about when overclocking the HTL, like data corruption maybe? Or will it just make the system unstable when taken too far. I know that pio runs his HTL at quite remarkable speed, but I'm not exactly expecting too much from my own motherboard.









Oh, and do you think overvolting the chipset might help if I run into instability?


----------



## Blitz6804

The only issue I have seen with an HTL that is too high is random BSODs. They are not reproducible with any certainty.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


Hey guys, since my 3x HT Link won't work I'm gonna try going as far as I can on the 4x.
I've been running my HTL at 1100MHz for a day now and it's stable as far as I know.

Are there any risks I should know about when overclocking the HTL, like data corruption maybe? Or will it just make the system unstable when taken too far. I know that pio runs his HTL at quite remarkable speed, but I'm not exactly expecting too much from my own motherboard.









Oh, and do you think overvolting the chipset might help if I run into instability?


From what I have seen, the HT Link is not so much a motherboard trait, but a CPU trait. My Opteron will surely reach pretty high HT Link speeds (I have it at 1002MHz now). However Froggy's Opteron 170 in the exact same motherboard I have, will only reach about 1200MHz HT Link stable (Mine hit 1376MHz stable).

So it appears to me that its more a CPU thing than a motherboard thing. That reminds me, I'm going to change mine to 4x now for 1333MHz HT Link. Why not, right?


----------



## Blitz6804

It is a mixture of both CPU and Chipset. The Crossfire Xpress 3200 supposedly can run generally 100-200 MHz higher than nForce4 chipsets, which in turn run about 100-200 MHz faster than SiS, VIA, and the Radeon 200 chipset. My nForce3 could not run much over 1000 MHz without running into serious issues. On the flipside, my Crossfire Xpress 3200 could run 1250 MHz with stock HTL voltage with the identical processor.


----------



## pioneerisloud

All I know is that I'm stress testing with 1360MHz HT Link right now







.


----------



## Jacka

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=482567

I can't seem to clock any higher than 269, even with HT Multiplier and RAM cranked right down.

Any ideas?


----------



## HothBase

Alright, thanks guys! Just checking so that there is no major risk of any permanent damage.
I'll start testing my HTL max first thing after school tomorrow.








I guess I shouldn't be too miserable if this is as far as it goes. This machine has already managed far more than what I first expected.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jacka*


http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=482567

I can't seem to clock any higher than 269, even with HT Multiplier and RAM cranked right down.

Any ideas?


It could just be a limitation of your motherboard perhaps?

Also, I don't know the specifics on your RAM, you could be running your RAM a little tight for its likings? Have you tried upping chipset voltages?


----------



## Jacka

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


It could just be a limitation of your motherboard perhaps?

Also, I don't know the specifics on your RAM, you could be running your RAM a little tight for its likings? Have you tried upping chipset voltages?


As far as I can tell, my motherboard doesn't have the option of adjusting chipset voltages.

269 seems to be the limit regardless of how tight my RAM is.
One overclocker using this motherboard achieved 300+ bus, which leads me to believe that it's capable of much more.


----------



## Blitz6804

Unless I am mistaken, Hueristic runs the same motherboard. Perhaps he can share the extent of his experience with it. The RAM is running at DDR 348, 2.5-3-3-7. I do not know the specific brand RAM you have, but have you tried 3-3-3-8? What is your tRC and tRFC set to? If you decrease your multiplier to 10x, can you increase the HTT?


----------



## Jacka

I've got it running stable at 275*8 with RAM at 3-3-3-7 on CPU/12.

What would be the reason for the CPU not being stable with a multiplier of 11?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jacka*


I've got it running stable at 275*8 with RAM at 3-3-3-7 on CPU/12.

What would be the reason for the CPU not being stable with a multiplier of 11?


Perhaps its just too much for the CPU? Mine hits a wall at around 3060MHz with my current BIOS, and 3222MHz with the 1405 BIOS (beta). So it could easily just be a limitation of your CPU at this point.

Keep in mind, Socket 939 chips are not actually MEANT to run at 3.0GHz+ speeds. Heck, they're not even meant to run at 2.8GHz. The highest stock clocked 939 chip (to my knowledge) is 2.6GHz (FX-60 / FX-57). So anything past 2.6GHz is really stretching the architecture.


----------



## simfreak47

Is that like the Northwoods, with the Sudden Northwood Death Syndrome (SNDS)???


----------



## pez

Hmm slight update, but last night was the first time I tested stability of my 2.55ghz, and it was exactly 7 hours stable when I woke up.


----------



## Blitz6804

Meaning it died after 7 hours, or when you awoke 7 hours later it was still running? In either event, good show!

As far as I know Pioneer, yes, the fastest processors for the Socket are the FX-55 (San Diego, 13x200x1), the Opteron 152 (Venus, 13x200x1), the FX-60 (Toledo, 13x200x2), and the Opteron 185 (Denmark, 13x200x2). Single Core or Dual Core, 2.6 GHz rules the day. (All 1 MB cached.)


----------



## pez

Yes I woke at 7 hours later and stopped it b/c I needed to use it lol. It hadn't stopped, sorry i didn't get an SS, but I needed it rather urgently. Also, was takign a SS of my desktop for the Desktop thread and I just looked at the time







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey pez, did you notice any difference in your benchmark scores when you went from your previous os to running vista?


----------



## pez

I had xp 32 before and the score actually went up 50 marks I think when going to vista. Or do you mean from when i reformatted? I did in SLI by 500 marks lol.


----------



## timxirish

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Timxirish, trying changing the command rate from 1T to 2T and lower the memory divider. That should give you some more overclocking room with your processor. Currently you are 17Mhz overclocked with the memory frequency. The sub-timings could also be loosened a tad, 2-3-2-5 1T is pretty tight.

Are you running the stock chipset voltage (1.5volts)?

Good luck

I am. There's actually very few settings in my bios tweaked at the moment.. And actually, I never manually set my RAM to 1T.. Basically was already set to 1T automatically. I believe I found the area to change that, but no idea how to set it to 2T. My options are "Auto" "Enabled" (aka, 1T) and "Disabled" for "Command Per Clock" (..where I'm led to believe this would be changed).

The only things I manually modified were the FSB frequency (290), LDT/FSB freq. ratio (x3.0), CPU/FSB freq. ratio (x9.0), PCI-e freq (104), and the CPU VID Special Control (Above VID * 104%). I took a few snapshots of my options & settings in case they'd be handy.. But I still have yet to fully develop an understanding of the relationships between the RAM timing/subtiming settings. The FSB, LDT/FSB ratio, and CPU/FSB ratio stuff I have a moderate understanding of, but I never fiddled with RAM stuff too much, because I figured it would be more worth my time to wait 'til I picked up a nice dual channel kit.

Pics:
Main page


RAM page


Would 133mhz be a wise place to start for the divider? Of course, I'm sure I'd need to tweak other settings for that to be worthwhile...

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Not to make you run it again timxirish, but I do not suppose you took a screen with the CPU-Z open with the S&M passed? If not, I will amend as-is. Congratulations on being S&M stable!

>_<, I didn't, sorry.. I was taking the easy route and doing all Alt+PrintScreen screenshots. But I understand why you'd want it. I'll definitely be sure to nab one when I push my processor further later. Just wanted to at least get the config i've been using for 6+ months confirmed and updated. And thank you very much.


----------



## JEmmaB

Hello guys any experience with the radeon 4670?

My 3dmark06 are kinda low, but I suspect the proc to be the culprit.










larger pic

I really need to try it on one of my 939s.


----------



## Jacka

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=482870

3700+ @ 3025 MHz


----------



## JEmmaB

@Jacka

Nice score.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JEmmaB*


My 3dmark06 are kinda low, but I suspect the proc to be the culprit.

larger pic


I don't think I would call that low.








Keep in mind that the bus width for that card is only 128 Bit.


----------



## JEmmaB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


I don't think I would call that low.








Keep in mind that the bus width for that card is only 128 Bit.


Hey thanks, it is a pretty awesome card for its price.









I just saw a couple reach the 10k mark at hwbot because they use quad intels.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Hueristic runs the same motherboard. Perhaps he can share the extent of his experience with it.


Right now I have set everything to auto (My bois sets the loosest timeing at auto). I did this for the suicides. I was happy just getting CAS 2 because I have 2 mismatched Valueram chips, 133 and 166. Haven't been able to get them into dual mode. I have to remove one when suicideing. After the January contest I will be re-tweaking the settings if the cpu is still kicking!









But it looks to me like Jacka is doing a great job right now! I may have to try his setup! LOL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jacka*


3700+ @ 3025 MHz










What Bios ver are you running? Keep up the good work and I'll spend some time with you in Feb if you want and we can get both our boards maxed out! I think we are the only 2 in this club with the ability to run agp and PCI-E at the same time!


----------



## Jacka

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


As far as I know Pioneer, yes, the fastest processors for the Socket are the FX-55 (San Diego, 13x200x1), the Opteron 152 (Venus, 13x200x1), the FX-60 (Toledo, 13x200x2), and the Opteron 185 (Denmark, 13x200x2). Single Core or Dual Core, 2.6 GHz rules the day. (All 1 MB cached.)


I believe the Opteron 154 runs at 14x200x1 for 2.8 GHz.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*









What Bios ver are you running?


I'm running BIOS 2.30 atm, but I'm going to try the latest OCWorkbench version to see if it improves anything.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jacka*


I'm running BIOS 2.30 atm, but I'm going to try the latest OCWorkbench version to see if it improves anything.


Shoot me a PM with you results, Or put them in this thread. I am working on the PCI-E 1X mod right now so don't have the time to dedicate to this board. But I love it. I think I have the only PHYSX score for an ATI card with a Nvidia card for physx and folding LOL.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *timxirish* 
I am. There's actually very few settings in my bios tweaked at the moment.. And actually, I never manually set my RAM to 1T.. Basically was already set to 1T automatically. I believe I found the area to change that, but no idea how to set it to 2T. My options are "Auto" "Enabled" (aka, 1T) and "Disabled" for "Command Per Clock" (..where I'm led to believe this would be changed).

Would 133mhz be a wise place to start for the divider? Of course, I'm sure I'd need to tweak other settings for that to be worthwhile...
)

Timxirish, change the _Command Per Clock_ to "_disabled_". That will set the command rate to 2T. In regards to the memory divider, I have mine set to 120 03/05. With my current OC (300HTT * 10x) that gives me exactly 200Mhz for my memory frequency. You're not to far from 300HTT so you may want to try that. You have a nice OC so far, keep it up









Quote:


Originally Posted by *JEmmaB* 
Hello guys any experience with the radeon 4670?

My 3dmark06 are kinda low, but I suspect the proc to be the culprit.

larger pic

I really need to try it on one of my 939s.









JEmmaB, nice 3DMarko6 score! Do you have the core overclocked to 820Mhz? Am I reading the GPU-Z screenshot correctly? Not bad for the price.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jacka* 
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=482870

3700+ @ 3025 MHz

Jacka, very nicely done my friend. I have a 3700+ that needs to be tested. I hope I see the same results


----------



## Blitz6804

Nice OC Jacka, I will update the off-site later today most likely.

JEmmaB: That score a little low for a 4670. The 4670 performs slightly better than a 3850, but not as good as a 3870. With a single 3850 and my CPU around the same, I have the same CPU score as you do. However, my SM2.0 and SM3.0 are slightly higher. (Low/mid 4000s.) I would suspect that the GPU overclock is a fuzz too high. Try reducing the GPU and GRAM clocks slightly and running it again. I had tried overclocking my card to the point where it was still stable in ATI tool, and yet, it scored lower in 3DMark06 than a clock 10 MHz slower.

timxirish: For some reason, DFI likes to label it as "Commands per clock," or whatever you said, instead of just saying "Command rate: 1T/2T." As Thlnk3r said, disable will make it 2T, enable will make it 1T, and "Auto" will make 1T/2T depending on how many DIMMs you have installed and what divider you are using. (At least, that is what Auto does on AM2.)

EDIT: Do you happen to know exactly WHAT OCZ you have? Do you know the rated timings/voltages? I would set them explicitly in the BIOS rather than leaving on Auto. Also, for 2-3-2-5-1T, tRC should be 7, and tRFC should be 9, 10, or 11 (whichever gives the best stability), rather than the 12/24 they are presently set to.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


JEmmaB: That score a little low for a 4670. The 4670 performs slightly better than a 3850, but not as good as a 3870.


Blitz, are you sure? I read three different reviews of the card and they were mostly in the low 8,000 and one of these was with a Q6600 @ 3Ghz. My 3850 scored 9,700, so the 4670 being slightly better might be a tad false. The two cards have different memory buses as well.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


JEmmaB: That score a little low for a 4670. The 4670 performs slightly better than a 3850, but not as good as a 3870. With a single 3850 and my CPU around the same, I have the same CPU score as you do. However, my SM2.0 and SM3.0 are slightly higher. (Low/mid 4000s.) I would suspect that the GPU overclock is a fuzz too high. Try reducing the GPU and GRAM clocks slightly and running it again. I had tried overclocking my card to the point where it was still stable in ATI tool, and yet, it scored lower in 3DMark06 than a clock 10 MHz slower.
.


 Ive found that OCing my GPU's typically nets me lower 3dmark scores. Even though real world performance goes up scores go down







Ive found I typically get teh best results with my cards at stock speeds. Go figure.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Ive found that OCing my GPU's typically nets me lower 3dmark scores. Even though real world performance goes up scores go down







Ive found I typically get teh best results with my cards at stock speeds. Go figure.










Omega, I don't even consider 3DMark06 to be good application for gauging performance any more. I prefer to just jump into a game to see how the performance is. It's nice to use for comparisons but I won't rely on it when it comes down to purchasing a specific card.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


As said, 939 rigs are more than capable still. I run all the games I play maxed out, and each one is playable (of course except crysis), but everything else I own, I can max out and play w/ nothing to complain about. (And mind you, this is at 1680x1050).


 How is crysis not playable? I run the demo @ 1680x1050 with everything on high at a totally playable framerate. With 1 card I was able to acheive an average 25fps, which by all accounts is totally playable. And I'd imagine that with the 9800's higher bus speed you should do better than that.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


How is crysis not playable? I run the demo @ 1680x1050 with everything on high at a totally playable framerate. With 1 card I was able to acheive an average 25fps, which by all accounts is totally playable. And I'd imagine that with the 9800's higher bus speed you should do better than that.


High is not max though, is it?







Maybe the full version of the game is more demanding than the demo? I'm just guessing here, I don't own the game. Never even played it.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


High is not max though, is it?







Maybe the full version of the game is more demanding than the demo? I'm just guessing here, I don't own the game. Never even played it.










Totally OT here but there is a good mod planned to come out for the game: http://www.mechlivinglegends.net/. Doesn't look all that bad


----------



## TestECull

Hrm...Crysis? Playable? Hah...that's an achievement, but this is something to behold:

Will it max GTA IV?

Also, 90nm of Glory is going to get a bit of a boost...in the form of an ex-folding 8800GS. Probably won't see another protein in it's lifetime, but I'll make sure it gets a workout


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
How is crysis not playable? I run the demo @ 1680x1050 with everything on high at a totally playable framerate. With 1 card I was able to acheive an average 25fps, which by all accounts is totally playable. And I'd imagine that with the 9800's higher bus speed you should do better than that.

1) The crysis demo ran much better than the game.
2) Crysis Warhead is what I run which is more efficient yet most levels are more demanding than the original Crysis.
3) When you ended posting your results in that thread with one card you had like a max of 25.
4) Your CPU is at 3.0Ghz which makes a world of difference in a game like Crysis.
5) You're running a Directx9 32 bit OS while I'm running a more resource hogging directx10 64 bit OS. I have yet to try it DX9 on Vista, but it'd be a noticeable difference I'm sure.

In the end, there's too many differences in our rigs to compare. I want to see your 25 fps avg of Crysis on high @ 1680x1050.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
Also, 90nm of Glory is going to get a bit of a boost...in the form of an ex-folding 8800GS. Probably won't see another protein in it's lifetime, but I'll make sure it gets a workout










TestECull, what brand is the 8800GS? Plan on OC'ing the poop out of it?









Good luck


----------



## TestECull

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
TestECull, what brand is the 8800GS? Plan on OC'ing the poop out of it?









Good luck


XFX AFAIK, and it will remain un-OC'd untill I can mount my Accelero on it. Then, I'm going to clock it to the moon and back









Since the Accelero came with my X1900XT, all I have is the ATI mounting hardware. If XFX did the same thing on the 8800GS as they did on the 8600GT I bought, however, it should bolt right on anywho. On the 8600, they drilled three sets of mounting holes. One of those lines up perfectly with the X1900's cooler, and thusly my Accelero. I've already mounted it on there for the lulz, then put it back on my X1900.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
XFX AFAIK, and it will remain un-OC'd untill I can mount my Accelero on it. Then, I'm going to clock it to the moon and back









Since the Accelero came with my X1900XT, all I have is the ATI mounting hardware. If XFX did the same thing on the 8800GS as they did on the 8600GT I bought, however, it should bolt right on anywho.

TestECull, or if you have any processor coolers available that have heatpipes you could always mod one of those to mount on the 8800GS









I made a custom cooler for my 7900GS using a Pentium 4 heatsink. Worked out great.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz, are you sure? I read three different reviews of the card and they were mostly in the low 8,000 and one of these was with a Q6600 @ 3Ghz. My 3850 scored 9,700, so the 4670 being slightly better might be a tad false. The two cards have different memory buses as well.

Fairly certain.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Fairly certain.


Blitz, that's Call of Duty 4 not 3DMark06


----------



## Blitz6804

True, but I could care less about synthetic benchmarks; real-world performance is where it is at! *Chuckles.*


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


TestECull, or if you have any processor coolers available that have heatpipes you could always mod one of those to mount on the 8800GS









I made a custom cooler for my 7900GS using a Pentium 4 heatsink. Worked out great.

Good luck



No free CPU coolers...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


True, but I could care less about synthetic benchmarks; real-world performance is where it is at! *Chuckles.*


Blitz, that is nice but you originally post about 3DMark06. Anyways









Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


No free CPU coolers...


TestECull, not even a stock cooler?


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


No free CPU coolers...


Speaking of CPU coolers.
My CPU currently loads at 65+ when running Orthos Blend priority 9.
I've been thinking about getting the OCZ Vendetta 2 and some MX-2 TIM to go with that.


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, that is nice but you originally post about 3DMark06. Anyways









TestECull, not even a stock cooler?



Nope. Lost the stocker that came with the E1200 I bought...a shame, too. I was gonna use that fan. Flowed a pretty good bit of air for an 80mm without a proper shroud!

HothBase: There's nothing wrong with the Vendetta 2. If you get it, go for a bolt-thru kit for some peace-of-mind. I don't trust the clips with the stock cooler, let alone anything bigger, and especially if they only use two lugs instead of the six available. 600 grams is also pretty heavy, my GeminII is 750-800 without fans.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


Speaking of CPU coolers.
My CPU currently loads at 65+ when running Orthos Blend priority 9.
I've been thinking about getting the OCZ Vendetta 2 and some MX-2 TIM to go with that.


HothBase, what is your room ambient temperature and what is the airflow in your case like? With a 26C room ambient I get around the same full load temp with a XP-90C (80mm fan). The Vendetta 2 should offer some better cooling at full load. I think Joe has this cooler. Shoot him a PM, he may be able to give more details on the performance level. This is a HDT cooler so no lapping required









Good luck


----------



## TestECull

26C ambient? Good god guys...I can't stand a 20C ambient...drives me nuts...


----------



## Blitz6804

HothBase: SerenityKill3r has an OCZ on his newest PC; you should give him a PM asking him about it.

Thlnk3r: That is true isn't it. Looking up 3DMark06 scores, it seems that the 4670 is substantially similar or slightly lower than the 3850. For games, the 4670 is slightly higher or substantially similar to the 3850. This appears to be tied to the resolution: the 3850 wins at 1280x1024 in most tests, but loses at anything larger. 3DMark06 is ran at 1280x1024.

Further, as we heard, he said his score is better at stock rather than overclocked. (The same thing happens with my 3850.) I would presume this means it is edging on the razor's edge of instability and needs some voltage to level out. (The advantage of the 4670 comes in that it is quieter than a 3850 and uses less power.)


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
If you get it, go for a bolt-thru kit for some peace-of-mind.

Idunno, I don't think they're too easy to come by where I live, especially one that will actually fit, and will therefore most likely be kind of expensive.








You really think I'll need it for 600g(incl. fan)? I actually thought it was kinda lightweight considering that some coolers are 1000g+









thlnk3r: Room temp is ~20C, and considering that it's winter, my current cooler just won't do for much longer.


----------



## TestECull

Yeah. there's only two points of rentention anywho. My GeminII rocks as it is, and it's bolt-thru only(And pretty damned tight too)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
Room temp is ~20C, and considering that it's winter, my current cooler just won't do for much longer.









Hoth, makes perfect sense to upgrade to a different cooler then. Come summer time you'll probably run into problems with the stock cooler but really how often will you be fully loading the processor and memory at 100%?

Good luck


----------



## TestECull

I guess I'm the only person on OCN that gets better temps in summer than in winter...

Hay guise...

http://www.overclock.net/ati/441942-...ml#post5315948


----------



## timxirish

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Timxirish, change the _Command Per Clock_ to "_disabled_". That will set the command rate to 2T. In regards to the memory divider, I have mine set to 120 03/05. With my current OC (300HTT * 10x) that gives me exactly 200Mhz for my memory frequency. You're not to far from 300HTT so you may want to try that. You have a nice OC so far, keep it up









Thank you good sir, and will do







. The explanation you give helps with understanding the memory divider.. I'm starting to look at it a bit more mathematically now. I'll save my current (known working) settings in CMOS Reloaded and try tinkering here and there

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
timxirish: For some reason, DFI likes to label it as "Commands per clock," or whatever you said, instead of just saying "Command rate: 1T/2T." As Thlnk3r said, disable will make it 2T, enable will make it 1T, and "Auto" will make 1T/2T depending on how many DIMMs you have installed and what divider you are using. (At least, that is what Auto does on AM2.)

EDIT: Do you happen to know exactly WHAT OCZ you have? Do you know the rated timings/voltages? I would set them explicitly in the BIOS rather than leaving on Auto. Also, for 2-3-2-5-1T, tRC should be 7, and tRFC should be 9, 10, or 11 (whichever gives the best stability), rather than the 12/24 they are presently set to.

Heh, yeah. I figured "Disabled" translated to 2T. Auto for me set it to enabled w/2 DIMMs with a 150mhz divider.

As far as the RAM goes, it's rated at 2-3-2-5 and 2.6V - 2.8V. Note taken on the settings-- I'll do some fiddling next chance I get. Probably sometime tomorrow, as i've got some broadcasting I'm doing tonight.


----------



## Blitz6804

So I would set the RAM to 2-3-2-5-1T-7-9 @ 2.80 V myself and try to keep the RAM as close to DDR 400 via dividers as possible. If you wish to go higher than DDR 400, loosen it to 2-3-3-6-2T-9-11 so you have less of a risk of instability (maybe even 2.5-3-3-6-2T-9-11) and tighten back up as needed.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *timxirish*


As far as the RAM goes, it's rated at 2-3-2-5 and 2.6V - 2.8V. Note taken on the settings-- I'll do some fiddling next chance I get. Probably sometime tomorrow, as i've got some broadcasting I'm doing tonight.


Timxirish, if you loosen the timings you may find a easier time overclocking your processor. Those sub-timings are a bit tight for that OC. Perhaps it's different for you but on my DFI SLI-DR I have troubles running the factory sub-timings with my current OC of 3Ghz. Regardless of what VDimm I use it just never happens. Just a thought...

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
1)

In the end, there's too many differences in our rigs to compare. I want to see your 25 fps avg of Crysis on high @ 1680x1050.

Here you go







, this is with my opty @ 2.8. Not to mention this is using the 175.19 drivers which absolutely KILL FPS. Using these drivers my FPS in BF2142 dropped from an average of 100+, using the 180.xx driver, to 50-70 with the 175.xx. Granted thats with the card OC'd by quite a bit, Im sure it would do even better if I volt mod it.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
Hrm...Crysis? Playable? Hah...that's an achievement, but this is something to behold:
Will it max GTA IV?



TestEcull, Im not a fan of the GTA series. Ive played some of the different versions that my friend had, san andreas and such, I wasnt really impressed. Being a Gran Turismo whore and a fan of FPS's playing a 3rd person shooter and the poor driving of the game is just too frustrating for me. Not to mention, I dont think the graphics are all that great anyway.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
True, but I could care less about synthetic benchmarks; real-world performance is where it is at! *Chuckles.*

Exactly, in game I actually do better than what the benchmarks show.


----------



## pez

crap I need to reinstall warhead now.


----------



## JEmmaB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


JEmmaB, nice 3DMarko6 score! Do you have the core overclocked to 820Mhz? Am I reading the GPU-Z screenshot correctly? Not bad for the price.


Hey, thanks and yes the core is at 820.









I think it can be higher tho', but my 790GX PCI-E runs only at x8 hence the slightly low score.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


JEmmaB: That score a little low for a 4670. The 4670 performs slightly better than a 3850, but not as good as a 3870. With a single 3850 and my CPU around the same, I have the same CPU score as you do. However, my SM2.0 and SM3.0 are slightly higher. (Low/mid 4000s.) I would suspect that the GPU overclock is a fuzz too high. Try reducing the GPU and GRAM clocks slightly and running it again. I had tried overclocking my card to the point where it was still stable in ATI tool, and yet, it scored lower in 3DMark06 than a clock 10 MHz slower.


Thanks for the suggestion, I'll give it a try.


----------



## pez

Warhead may run better, but I have to start over I think for the benchies. Oh my CPU is just being worked so much. Gotta get more money for the rest of the payments on that RAM







.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


TestEcull, Im not a fan of the GTA series. Ive played some of the different versions that my friend had, san andreas and such, I wasnt really impressed. Being a Gran Turismo whore and a fan of FPS's playing a 3rd person shooter and the poor driving of the game is just too frustrating for me. Not to mention, I dont think the graphics are all that great anyway.


I was, until GTA4. I have GTA, GTA2, GTA3, GTA:VC, GTA:SA, GTA:LCS, GTA:VCS, and GTA4. From Vice City Stories to GTA4, there is a change in the game engine as stark as GTA2 to GTA3. Most notable is that the game lost what made it fun (rampant silliness on an arcade-racer platform) and turned itself into a gritty, realistic driving simulator that just happens to let you run around shooting. And getting arrested. For the very reasons I hate GTA4, you may like it; could not hurt to try. (For the record, I have GTA and GTA3 on the PC; GTA2 on the Playstation, GTA3, GTA:VC, and GTA:SA on the Playstation2, and GTA:LCS/GTA:VCS on the Playstation Portable.)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JEmmaB*


I think it can be higher tho', but my 790GX PCI-E runs only at x8 hence the slightly low score.










I am not exactly sure that could be the reason; you really need to struggle to max out the bandwidth of a PCI-E slot. I know that the HD 3850 will not max out an AGP 8x slot (2.08 GBps, which is slightly faster than PCI-E 8x's 1.95 GBps) but that an 8800 GT does. It is possible that it could be near the bandwidth cap, but that would be a slight score reduction, not a massive crippling. Just so you are aware, your sig says your CPU is at 3114 and the RAM is at 893 whereas your posted screenshot says 3060 and 1020 respectively. Just thought I would mention that.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JEmmaB*


I think it can be higher tho', but my 790GX PCI-E runs only at x8 hence the slightly low score.










JEmmaB, aren't both the PCIe slots x16? Do you have the 4670 running under hybrid with the onboard video? That would definitely make it x8.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I was under the impression that the 790GX chipset had 2.0 16x PCI-E slots. If using CrossfireX (with either two cards or one card and the onboard) the speed dropped to 2.0 8x. 2.0 8x is the same as 1.1 16x, that is, 4000 MBps. There is no way a 4670 should max out 4000 MBps. (A dual-chip board could, such as a GTX 295 or a 4870 X2.)


----------



## N2Gaming

Hi every one.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


If using CrossfireX (with either two cards or one card and the onboard) the speed dropped to 2.0 8x. 2.0 8x is the same as 1.1 16x, that is, 4000 MBps. There is no way a 4670 should max out 4000 MBps. (A dual-chip board could, such as a GTX 295 or a 4870 X2.)


Blitz, the signaling rate is different for PCIe 2.0...so there might be a difference there.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hi every one.










N2Gaming, what happened to your original post about the motherboard chipset question


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, what happened to your original post about the motherboard chipset question










Well I looked over blitz last post again and realized that I was way out in left field...


----------



## Blitz6804

Left field only exists in baseball! You gotta a question, you ask da question!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Is this for real?!?!?!?!?

Opteron 190









Never mind the speed, but check out that model number...


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Is this for real?!?!?!?!?

Opteron 190









Never mind the speed, but check out that model number...


also curious


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Left field only exists in baseball! You gotta a question, you ask da question!


with all respect blitz, I was only showing a link to asus 790gx chipset and asking about the chipset and south bridge but I was doing so according to what I thought your post said. Once I read your post again I realized that I was incorrect in quoting you and deleted the whole question. I'm sorry for not letting my question stay longer so that more peeps could see how far off I really was.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Is this for real?!?!?!?!?

Opteron 190









Never mind the speed, but check out that model number...


It would be nice but according to THIS it does not exist. Probably a top secrect model that general public never got to see or use...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

It's a strange, exotic beast, that's for sure...


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


TestEcull, Im not a fan of the GTA series. Ive played some of the different versions that my friend had, san andreas and such, I wasnt really impressed. Being a Gran Turismo whore and a fan of FPS's playing a 3rd person shooter and the poor driving of the game is just too frustrating for me. Not to mention, I dont think the graphics are all that great anyway.



The bugginess in that game is what makes it difficult to run...

Also, I know how to fix the driving issues...


----------



## Hueristic

Dammit, Now I want!! For some reason I want that Opteron over a Deneb. I must be insane!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Is this for real?!?!?!?!?

Opteron 190









Never mind the speed, but check out that model number...


Joe, yes these were legit. There was only a few produced (JH9-EE)...rare indeed. See attached


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Joe, yes these were legit. There was only a few produced (JH9-EE)...rare indeed. See attached


Who has one? Better question who has one that they will part with???


----------



## TestECull

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...m=280302030813

Someone jump on that, it'd be epic for the 939 club contest.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, yes these were legit. There was only a few produced (JH9-EE)...rare indeed. See attached

Before anyone else gets crazy, it's fake I just made the screenshot in mspaint









Though I think Joe's is legit...


----------



## N2Gaming

not for the price it will end at







while being used!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

thlnk3r got an attack of conscience!









But he's right; mine is a legit screenshot (i.e., I didn't chop it). Someone else may have, but not me...

And not thlnk3r the tricky trickster either.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...m=280302030813

Someone jump on that, it'd be epic for the 939 club contest.

6d 23h 2m


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
6d 23h 2m









And it's already over $100.00


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Market values for S939 chips are incredibly high, actually. Only on OCN would one not expect to fetch a lot of money for a good chip.









On the other hand, it still makes me chuckle when I see advertisements on old magazines. Some of these chips were sold at incredibly high prices when they first came out. ~ $700 for a brand new AthlonX2 4800+?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Some of these chips were sold at incredibly high prices when they first came out. ~ $700 for a brand new AthlonX2 4800+?


----------



## volkovy

newest top-hardware is always expensive


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *volkovy* 
newest top-hardware is always expensive


Quote:

I am 0% addicted to Counterstrike.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *volkovy* 
newest top-hardware is always expensive

Thus the stupidity of buying something just when it first comes out.

(So says the guy who bought a HD 4870 days after release...)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 









thlnk3r got an attack of conscience!









But he's right; mine is a legit screenshot (i.e., I didn't chop it). Someone else may have, but not me...

And not thlnk3r the tricky trickster either.









Joe, I'm feeling a bit dangerous today









Weren't the S939 3800+ X2 $300 on release? They were extremely expensive when they first came out.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, I'm feeling a bit dangerous today









Weren't the S939 3800+ X2 $300 on release? They were extremely expensive when they first came out.

I don't know how much they were on release, but when I first put this rig together, my Manchester X2 3800+ cost me a whopping $169.99. The motherboard in my sig was $189.99.

And to think, I could EASILY have bought a Conroe paired with a 320MB 8800GTS for the same price as I paid for this stuff with a 7600GT!!!

Oh well, you live, you learn, then you buy AMD







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Thus the stupidity of buying something just when it first comes out.

(So says the guy who bought a HD 4870 days after release...)


















Well back then AMD was the top dog... So I can understand how they got away with it. The table has turned and Intel is now the top dog. Now Intel is getting away with rediculouse prices... good for AMD Fanboys


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, I'm feeling a bit dangerous today









Weren't the S939 3800+ X2 $300 on release? They were extremely expensive when they first came out.











I've got to check out ads for a X2 3800+ to be sure about that price, but yeah. When dual-cores first came out, they were stupidly expensive. The Opterons were even more so (both dual-core and single-core varieties). LOL

What's even more amazing is the apparent lack of Pentium 4 advertisements from that same time period...


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I don't know how much they were on release, but when I first put this rig together, my Manchester X2 3800+ cost me a whopping $169.99. The motherboard in my sig was $189.99.

And to think, I could EASILY have bought a Conroe paired with a 320MB 8800GTS for the same price as I paid for this stuff with a 7600GT!!!

Oh well, you live, you learn, then you buy AMD







.

Don't feel bad. Way back in 2005 my mobo was nf4 sli dr was $220.00, Cpu a64 3500+ $220.00, 2 gig of ocz platnum ram $220.00, 32gig WD raptor $90.00, 19" 4ms lcd monitor I don't remember but it was a lot... and leadtek 6600td like $100.00 so I so feel like I got raked over the coals...


----------



## TestECull

I think by them Intel was giving up on Netburst and didn't care. They weren't selling that well anymore, A64 was raping them without lube and they ran hot as hell.

Didn't help that Intel threw a random new socket into the mix. That always hurts when you aren't on top...


----------



## Blitz6804

My 3700+ San Diego was in excess of $300 if I remember right. I have said so in the thread in the past. *Looks it up. Fails finding the exact figure, but sees that it was in fact in excess of $300.*


----------



## N2Gaming

The most important thing I can remember after paying all that money and seeing the system run for the first time was how I felt. I could not believe how snappy my system was compared to my duron 800 k2 6


----------



## HothBase

January 14, 2005
ASUS A8V Deluxe $133
AMD Athlon64 3000+ Winchester $180









blitz, my friend has one of those


----------



## BlackOmega

When I put my rig together my opty 165 cost $328.00, My board cost me $200 shipped and that was a STEAL for the A8N32. My hyperx cost 206.00, and my 6800's cost $128.00 and $135.00 each. Asus Vento 3600 case cost $160 and my 250 gig HDD was $96.00.
All my parts were ordered between 1/06 and 3/06. It took forever to get the board, like a month but I did save about $70.


----------



## N2Gaming

pricy little opty 165


----------



## pioneerisloud

edited out.


----------



## Name Change

Just looking at some price, I paid so much for this stuff but it's still kicking but =P..

Cad prices at the time.
$379+ for my X2 3800 lolz wowz
$300 for my Mushkin ram
$339 EVGA E-GEFORCE 7800GT CO still have the card.
$139 DFI LANParty UT NF4 ULTRA-D got a great deal on this lolz.

I guess money well spent, still using it going on 3 years lolz.


----------



## HothBase

That's jolly nice of you, pio!








I'd ask you to send me one if I didn't live so far away.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


That's jolly nice of you, pio!








I'd ask you to send me one if I didn't live so far away.


It looks like it would be under $2 USD to ship international, but there's no telling the wait time for it though







.


----------



## nategr8ns

pio, are they 1g tubes?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
pio, are they 1g tubes?

Yes sir, I do believe they are 1g. They are filled up to the mark of 0.5 ml/cc. I assume that is 1g.


----------



## JEmmaB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I am not exactly sure that could be the reason; you really need to struggle to max out the bandwidth of a PCI-E slot. I know that the HD 3850 will not max out an AGP 8x slot (2.08 GBps, which is slightly faster than PCI-E 8x's 1.95 GBps) but that an 8800 GT does. It is possible that it could be near the bandwidth cap, but that would be a slight score reduction, not a massive crippling. Just so you are aware, your sig says your CPU is at 3114 and the RAM is at 893 whereas your posted screenshot says 3060 and 1020 respectively. Just thought I would mention that.


My brother has the exact card; runs at x16 and his 3dmark is 8400+ not really far from mine. With regards to my current settings being different with my sig, I lowered proc o'c and loosen mem timings but run them higher. Seems to me stable at these settings.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


JEmmaB, aren't both the PCIe slots x16? Do you have the 4670 running under hybrid with the onboard video? That would definitely make it x8.

Good luck


It's supposed to, even the literature available from DFI's site states that it should but whatever I do it maxes at x8 single card and onboard disabled.

I read somewhere that 790GX mobos runs only at x8 but I really can't confirm that. But my LP JR does, even the regular from the DFI forums confirmed it.


----------



## Jacka

Brace yourselves.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=484397


----------



## BlackOmega

Very nice Jacka


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jacka*


Brace yourselves.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=484397


Very weird I already posted a reply but it's not here?




































:cheers :


----------



## Jacka

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Very weird I already posted a reply but it's not here?




































:cheers :
























That was on the winter thread.

I though I'd post it here as well.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jacka*


That was on the winter thread.

I though I'd post it here as well.


LMAO! Thought I was loseing my mind more than usual!!!


----------



## Blitz6804

Holy cow! Outstanding overclock Jacka. My Sandy is Jealous of your Sandy now. (Read that as a +REP.)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Alright guys, I am opening this up for club 939 members ONLY at first, in the spirit of the Winter overclocking contest.

I have 9 AVAILABLE tubes of Shin Etsu G751. I am asking $6 shipped a piece, in an envelope with your name and a stamp on it. If you want better shipping than that, pick up the extra $$ yourself please. PM me for information.

I am not putting up a for sale thread YET, because I wanted to offer these to club 939 members only at first. So Joe, Thinker, if I am in the wrong, well...Thinker can edit my post if he likes, or you can just PM me with this post #, and I'll edit it all out myself.

Pioneerisloud, anything related to "sales" should be posted in the For Sale section. If you're wanting this to be a "club 939 members only" then I'd suggest PM'ing the users instead. We have a lot of members so I know it'll be a pain









Quote:


Originally Posted by *JEmmaB* 
It's supposed to, even the literature available from DFI's site states that it should but whatever I do it maxes at x8 single card and onboard disabled.

I read somewhere that 790GX mobos runs only at x8 but I really can't confirm that. But my LP JR does, even the regular from the DFI forums confirmed it.









JEmmaB, that is really strange then. I'll have to check out the manual to see if in small print is listed in regards to that. Maybe a special setting in the BIOS disabled/enables the speed on the PCIe slot?









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jacka* 
Brace yourselves.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=484397

Jacka, great job









How much Vcore are you currently running?


----------



## Jacka

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Jacka, great job









How much Vcore are you currently running?

1.550 in the bios, but only for short periods of time while I'm doing these overclocks.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jacka* 
1.550 in the bios, but only for short periods of time while I'm doing these overclocks.

Jacka, after the contest is over are you planning on running that 24/7? Out of curiosity, have you tried running Orthos/OCCT to see if it holds up?

Again great job


----------



## Blitz6804

1.568 V in the OS. Wow.

JEmmaB: On my 790fx, there is a setting in the BIOS you need to switch to turn on 16x (defaults to 8x) and to turn on PCI-E 2.0 (defaults to 1.1). I am sure the BIOSes are not the same given that I have a DK and you have a JR, but since it is the 790*x, they should be at least a little similar. Supposedly, if you do not disable the onboard, it drops the primary to 8x.


----------



## Jacka

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Jacka, after the contest is over are you planning on running that 24/7? Out of curiosity, have you tried running Orthos/OCCT to see if it holds up?

Again great job









It's 100% stable at 269*11, anything above that lasts for a maximum of 2 hours on OCCT/Orthos.

I've found that running it at 233*11 with tight memory timings performs slightly better than anything higher, which it maybe just that I haven't tweaked much at higher overclocks.


----------



## thlnk3r

JEmmaB, in regards to post #11393.

Not sure if this will make a difference but did you check the PCIe Gen 1/Gen 2 jumper? This jumper is between both the PCIe slots. For a Gen2 card, set the jumper to the 2 and 3 position. Perhaps maybe that will shed some light on your problem.

Under "Advanced Chipset Features" -> "PCIE Configuration", go to GFX Port 1 and 2. Check the "Link Width". According to the manual it says the settings range from Auto, x1, x2, x4 and x8. There isn't anything that states x16









This (x16) is probably only available on the FX chipset and not the GX. I don't have any experience with this board but some users said to keep "Link ASPM" _Disabled_ and to set your "Slot Power Limit, W" to 225.

Good luck


----------



## pioneerisloud

Edited my post out. I spose I can say this much though, there is a great deal on Shin Etsu in the for sale section







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


edited my post out. I spose i can say this much though, there is a great deal on shin etsu in the for sale section







.


 lol


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Edited my post out. I spose I can say this much though, there is a great deal on Shin Etsu in the for sale section







.

Pio, thanks for posting in there. I appreciate it


----------



## JEmmaB

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
JEmmaB, that is really strange then. I'll have to check out the manual to see if in small print is listed in regards to that. Maybe a special setting in the BIOS disabled/enables the speed on the PCIe slot?









Yes, I hear there is an option in the bios for the DK model but for the JR only x8 max is available, very strange.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
JEmmaB, in regards to post #11393.

Not sure if this will make a difference but did you check the PCIe Gen 1/Gen 2 jumper? This jumper is between both the PCIe slots. For a Gen2 card, set the jumper to the 2 and 3 position. Perhaps maybe that will shed some light on your problem.

Under "Advanced Chipset Features" -> "PCIE Configuration", go to GFX Port 1 and 2. Check the "Link Width". According to the manual it says the settings range from Auto, x1, x2, x4 and x8. There isn't anything that states x16









This (x16) is probably only available on the FX chipset and not the GX. I don't have any experience with this board but some users said to keep "Link ASPM" _Disabled_ and to set your "Slot Power Limit, W" to 225.

Good luck

Thanks for the info I'll check it out much later.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
1.568 V in the OS. Wow.

JEmmaB: On my 790fx, there is a setting in the BIOS you need to switch to turn on 16x (defaults to 8x) and to turn on PCI-E 2.0 (defaults to 1.1). I am sure the BIOSes are not the same given that I have a DK and you have a JR, but since it is the 790*x, they should be at least a little similar. Supposedly, if you do not disable the onboard, it drops the primary to 8x.

No luck with the BIOS, will probably check jumper settings on the board. And yes the onboard IGX is disabled.


----------



## fshizl

any of you guys know where i can purchase a 939 dual core, preferably 4400 + lol... i wanna watch 1080p movies on my pc but the 3700 isnt enough to produce some of the scenes.


----------



## TestECull

Check OCN FS if you want to buy one for a reasonable price.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fshizl*


any of you guys know where i can purchase a 939 dual core, preferably 4400 + lol... i wanna watch 1080p movies on my pc but the 3700 isnt enough to produce some of the scenes.


 Here is the last place that you can buy a new opty 180 (2.4x2), and itll come with a 1 year warranty to boot.









Thats where I got mine and as you can see Ive had good results with er


----------



## BlackOmega

Ok 939ers got a SERIOUS question for you guys.









Ive got 3 days left on my step up from evga. Ive decided that I'm only going to step 1 card up instead of both. Here are the cards I have to choose from. 
9600GT 1gb gddr3, 9800GTX+ 1gb gddr3, and the 260 216 55nm.

Would going to any of these cards really show me a huge improvement over my GSO's. What my concern is that by going to the 260, would my rig bottleneck the bejesus out of it? Or would I really see a spectacular performance/visual improvement.

Should the 9600GT or the 9800GTX+ even be options?

Also, the step up price would be $7199, $129.99 and $171.00 respectively.

Let me know what you guys think. SOON!!!!







Thanx guys.


----------



## TestECull

Don't worry about a bottleneck. You have the single fastest S939 proc to ever grace this earth.

Hell, for the price of that 9600GT, you could have AMD stamp out a Deneb on S939. Lulz 7200 dollars. Atleast...for one single sale of 7200, I'm sure they'd stamp a custom chip.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

BlackOmega, a better card would work less hard to sustain the same kind of framerates and eye candy than an inferior card would. Though you're already running an SLI setup with your 9600GSOs, I'll always favor a single great card over two good cards running in SLI/Crossfire.

I wish I could tell you which setup would give you better performance. I do know that standing pat would not make you open your wallet up at all (while a step-up to a better single card would almost definitely would, unless I'm mistaken).

I'm not sure this helps you any, but I hope it does anyway.


----------



## pioneerisloud

BlackOmega:
I would suggest you go with whatever card suites your budget. The 9800GTX+ won't be bottlenecked, I can promise that (except in 3DMark). The GTX 260 would obviously be a step up from it. If you've got the cash for it, go for the 260, and let us know how it goes. That's what I'd do.

And hey, if it bottlenecks slightly, so what!!! You can ALWAYS take that card with you to a new rig in the future if you chose to, and at least you'd know that its not the GPU holding you back







.


----------



## Name Change

Sweet finally, little tweaking =P. Stable 3GHZ on my X2 3800 =P.

I can't seem to run over 2.9ghz on vista for any short of time odd, I bumped my volts up to 1.55. And now it's been going well in Windows XP pro Sp3, dual boot FTW. Time to go back and play some RTW, still love the game =P.









Earlier I had her rocking 3.2ghz but I hit powerbar and pc turned off lolz, can't seem to get it back to 3.2ghz, 3.157ghz highest. =/ didn't have enogh time to take a ss or cpu validation.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Ok 939ers got a SERIOUS question for you guys.









Ive got 3 days left on my step up from evga. Ive decided that I'm only going to step 1 card up instead of both. Here are the cards I have to choose from. 
9600GT 1gb gddr3, 9800GTX+ 1gb gddr3, and the 260 216 55nm.

Would going to any of these cards really show me a huge improvement over my GSO's. What my concern is that by going to the 260, would my rig bottleneck the bejesus out of it? Or would I really see a spectacular performance/visual improvement.

Should the 9600GT or the 9800GTX+ even be options?

Also, the step up price would be $7199, $129.99 and $171.00 respectively.

Let me know what you guys think. SOON!!!!







Thanx guys.










Go with a GTX 260 w/ the 216 SP's. Going to a 9800GTX+ wouldn't be worth it IMO, probably a downgrade. As far as bottleneck, you're bottlenecking more w/ a dual core cpu and SLI then you would w/ one GTX 260 216. Go with that and then sell your other card to get some spending money to buy a new game for it







.


----------



## JEmmaB

Just like the Opteron 190; the FX-63(check the specification)! LOL!


















validation


----------



## Blitz6804

I do not get it JEmmaB...?

Congrats on your Manny Name Change.

BlackOmega: Given the prices to step up, I would suggest maintaining the status quo. If you can play all your games with decent frame rates, why spend money now? When you start running into problems, THEN look into the GTX 3xx or HD 58xx series.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JEmmaB*


Just like the Opteron 190; the FX-63(check the specification)! LOL!








]


JEmmaB, nice OC









Looks like CPU-Z is reading the processor wrong (FX-63)









Good luck


----------



## JEmmaB

Ah, just a name change; I changed the 62 to 63 in the "Specification" of cpu-z but not the processor name.

It just occurred to me that "maybe" the Opteron 190 cpu-z validation was altered in the same manner.


----------



## RallyMaster

Well, I no longer have my Opteron 165. Shipped it out yesterday to some fellow in New York. I still have one remaining Socket 939 system at home which is an Opteron 146 in my parents' computer but I no longer use one myself. I still have a motherboard though...


----------



## JEmmaB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


JEmmaB, nice OC









Looks like CPU-Z is reading the processor wrong (FX-63)









Good luck










It can be changed in to anything up to 48 characters. The Opty 190 issue is really bugging me. Was it only a name change?

Behold the FX-64.


















http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=485229


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JEmmaB*









It can be changed in to anything up to 48 characters.


How?


----------



## JEmmaB

A little utility i used before the advent of cpu-z; CBId. Works in a lot of ways like cpu-z.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


How?










Hoth, good question.

Jemma, I was able to bust out the mspaint.exe and modify mine but how did you get a CPU-Z validation link with that? That is pathetically sad, I wonder how many people lie on their validation links


----------



## JEmmaB

thlnk3r: You can't cheat the score, but you can change the procs name. Hence the cpu-z validation.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JEmmaB*


thlnk3r: You can't cheat the score, but you can change the procs name. Hence the cpu-z validation.


Jemma, ah ok. Sorry for the confusion. Still very early in the morning


----------



## JEmmaB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Jemma, ah ok. Sorry for the confusion. Still very early in the morning










This is getting really interesting, but I have to get some sleep. It's almost 2 in the morning here.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


BlackOmega, a better card would work less hard to sustain the same kind of framerates and eye candy than an inferior card would. Though you're already running an SLI setup with your 9600GSOs, I'll always favor a single great card over two good cards running in SLI/Crossfire.

I wish I could tell you which setup would give you better performance. I do know that standing pat would not make you open your wallet up at all (while a step-up to a better single card would almost definitely would, unless I'm mistaken).

I'm not sure this helps you any, but I hope it does anyway.











Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


BlackOmega:
I would suggest you go with whatever card suites your budget. The 9800GTX+ won't be bottlenecked, I can promise that (except in 3DMark). The GTX 260 would obviously be a step up from it. If you've got the cash for it, go for the 260, and let us know how it goes. That's what I'd do.

And hey, if it bottlenecks slightly, so what!!! You can ALWAYS take that card with you to a new rig in the future if you chose to, and at least you'd know that its not the GPU holding you back







.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Go with a GTX 260 w/ the 216 SP's. Going to a 9800GTX+ wouldn't be worth it IMO, probably a downgrade. As far as bottleneck, you're bottlenecking more w/ a dual core cpu and SLI then you would w/ one GTX 260 216. Go with that and then sell your other card to get some spending money to buy a new game for it







.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I do not get it JEmmaB...?

Congrats on your Manny Name Change.

BlackOmega: Given the prices to step up, I would suggest maintaining the status quo. If you can play all your games with decent frame rates, why spend money now? When you start running into problems, THEN look into the GTX 3xx or HD 58xx series.



Thanx for your input guys







its all been very helpful.

But here's the scoop with my setups as of right now. My asus board is sitting in a box with my opty 165 on it for the time being. Both of my DFI boards are in cases, up and running, each one has a 9600 in it. 
I was thinking the same thing as pez, that 1 good card wouldn't bottleneck nearly as bad as 2 in sli. Not to mention the 260 has more ram and a hell of a lot more throughput, I believe its 448 bit as opposed to 192 bit for the GSO's. As for the price, I dont think I can beat it, honestly. Including the price of my 9600, the 260 will cost me $230 shipped. And I figure Ill just keep the other one as a backup/folding rig which was the whole reason for it in the first place. And then maybe give the 3rd rig (once I get it in a case) to my folks. Seeing as their computer is going on 9 years old. Maybe.......Ill give them the asus board with my 6800's in SLI







and the OC'd 3500+. Theyll never have a clue as to what theyre really using









Well I suppose I have a couple more days to chew this over. Somehow convince the wife that this would be the LAST thing I do to my computer







. She's gonna be like








Hopefully, I can breathe new life into an aging socket and keep it around that much longer and hold off on building a new rig for at least another year possibly 2 if I get another 2 gigs of RAM.









Once again, thank you guys for your input.


----------



## jimwest

Just registered for OCN. Add me to the club







. Glad to see there's so many people still rocking the 939; lot's of great information here, thanks a lot guys!


----------



## HothBase

X2 3600+? That's pretty cool








Download CPU-Z and link us an online validation


----------



## jimwest

I've gotten it up to 2.9 to OS and 2.8 stable, but I didn't like the vCore being so high. 2.6 (1.4v) has been good for me so far: I have Crysis @ 1280x1024 medium/high 45+fps. I keep wanting to upgrade but my rig has been so good to me I'm always reluctant.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

jimwest, welcome to the Club.







I will add you to the official roster as soon as I'm able to (I'm at work, playing catch-up after three days sick leave







).

Glad to have you here!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
jimwest, welcome to the Club.







I will add you to the official roster as soon as I'm able to (I'm at work, playing catch-up after three days sick leave







).

Glad to have you here!









Any one play'd hookie lately?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I will add you to the official roster as soon as I'm able to

Joe, no need to worry. He has already been added









Jimwest, welcome to the club!


----------



## Six-eyes-Sid

Hi all,

i have my fx-60 at 285 fsb i can take htt way past 1250 so thats fine

memory will do 255fsb ddr510 i have it on a 333 rating @285fsb ddr actual 243 so bit of head room there. it will boot [email protected] [email protected] 245x12 not tried the 11's yes

problem as i see it

i cannot raise the cpu voltage makes no difference past 1.35 gvolts honest i've cranked it too 1.5 still wont get me over 3ghz

i can boot at 1.325 volts thats a .25 undervolt @ 10x285 giving me 2850mhz

i have no experience with undervolting.

my fx-60 is running watercooling and iws sitting at a high 33c on idle and high 40's under full load as paris would say thats hot. for watercooled 939 with top top water cooling equipment(no bigwater cheap setup)

anyone seen this before where do i go what should i do?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Any one play'd hookie lately?










Pfft, moi, play hooky?









Not my style. Just been sickly, that's all.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Joe, no need to worry. He has already been added









Jimwest, welcome to the club!


Thanks for the assist, thlnk3r!


----------



## mudd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Six-eyes-Sid*


Hi all,

i have my fx-60 at 285 fsb i can take htt way past 1250 so thats fine

memory will do 255fsb ddr510 i have it on a 333 rating @285fsb ddr actual 243 so bit of head room there. it will boot [email protected] [email protected] 245x12 not tried the 11's yes

problem as i see it

i cannot raise the cpu voltage makes no difference past 1.35 gvolts honest i've cranked it too 1.5 still wont get me over 3ghz

i can boot at 1.325 volts thats a .25 undervolt @ 10x285 giving me 2850mhz

i have no experience with undervolting.

my fx-60 is running watercooling and iws sitting at a high 33c on idle and high 40's under full load as paris would say thats hot. for watercooled 939 with top top water cooling equipment(no bigwater cheap setup)

anyone seen this before where do i go what should i do?


why you have your HT @ 1250? technically your system shouldn't even boot. 1080 is usually max and even then sometimes it ends up crashing.

you really don't even need the HT @ 1000, i'd suggest lowering it before you go further. HT is like a 6 lane highway, if you have 6 cars traveling on that highway and you add another two lanes, you're not going to increase your flow of traffic.

as far as overclocking past 3 GHz, good luck. there's some good FX series that will overclock to about 3.3 GHz on suicide runs (that little bugger that beat me for instance in the contest







) but my old fx-55 would do about 3 GHz @ 1.6v and that was it. couldn't even get another couple hertz out of it....

tinker with your ram timings. if you're trying to find the max overclock on your proc, lower everything down and just worry about the processor first. then find your other stuff and make everything work in harmony!


----------



## TestECull

What do I win?














And god I wish it was real...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

TestE, that is







HILARIOUS! I want one of those S939 Phenom IIs!


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


teste, that is







Hilarious! I want one of those s939 phenom iis!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


Don't worry about a bottleneck. You have the single fastest S939 proc to ever grace this earth.

Hell, for the price of that 9600GT, you could have AMD stamp out a Deneb on S939. Lulz 7200 dollars. Atleast...for one single sale of 7200, I'm sure they'd stamp a custom chip.










Thats one hell of an upgrade for the 9600gt eh? lol

And wouldnt that be badass, s939 PhenomII....hmmm.... makes me wonder you think our boards could support DDR2?


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*









Thats one hell of an upgrade for the 9600gt eh? lol

And wouldnt that be badass, s939 PhenomII....hmmm.... makes me wonder you think our boards could support DDR2?











Interesting thought...Maybe if enough people clamor for it, AMD would port us some dual core Denebs with DDR1 controllers and one pin lopped off?


----------



## Six-eyes-Sid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mudd*


why you have your HT @ 1250? technically your system shouldn't even boot. 1080 is usually max and even then sometimes it ends up crashing.

you really don't even need the HT @ 1000, i'd suggest lowering it before you go further. HT is like a 6 lane highway, if you have 6 cars traveling on that highway and you add another two lanes, you're not going to increase your flow of traffic.

as far as overclocking past 3 GHz, good luck. there's some good FX series that will overclock to about 3.3 GHz on suicide runs (that little bugger that beat me for instance in the contest







) but my old fx-55 would do about 3 GHz @ 1.6v and that was it. couldn't even get another couple hertz out of it....

tinker with your ram timings. if you're trying to find the max overclock on your proc, lower everything down and just worry about the processor first. then find your other stuff and make everything work in harmony!


I actually have the HTT at 3x whilst playing with the fsb and stepping etc i just ramp it up later and founbd even at about 1250 she never crashed the due to the HTT speed..strange i know i put that down to the hardware combo being a good match, or intellegent design theory.

i'm trying to find my best FSB speed then seeing how high i can get the multi. this will give me more performance that a cpu at 200x15 is all.

Hence the problem the cpu doesn't want to overclock when raising the volts so should i try undervolting?

Had anyone come accross a CPU that behaved like my one and found a solution?'

as for that phenom 939 OC hmm somethings not right there i'm sure they don't make a 939 phenom 2

opps caps sorry


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*











What do I win?














And god I wish it was real...


I'll give you a E for Effort.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Six-eyes-Sid*


i'm trying to find my best FSB speed then seeing how high i can get the multi. this will give me more performance that a cpu at 200x15 is all.

Hence the problem the cpu doesn't want to overclock when raising the volts so should i try undervolting?


Six-eyes-Sid, are you sure a higher HTT speed then 200Mhz will give you more performance? Have you ran some benchmarks to see if there is any performance differences? Honestly I would worry more about the cpu speed then the HTT. There is absolutely nothing wrong with 200HTT * 15x.

In regards to the undervolting question, are you referring to undervolting from the stock voltage or undervolting from your current voltage? I always try to see how high I can get on stock voltage before I go any further.

Have you tried adjusting your sub-timings to see if that helps?

Good luck


----------



## mudd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Six-eyes-Sid, are you sure a higher HTT speed then 200Mhz will give you more performance? Have you ran some benchmarks to see if there is any performance differences? Honestly I would worry more about the cpu speed then the HTT. There is absolutely nothing wrong with 200HTT * 15x.

In regards to the undervolting question, are you referring to undervolting from the stock voltage or undervolting from your current voltage? I always try to see how high I can get on stock voltage before I go any further.

Have you tried adjusting your sub-timings to see if that helps?

Good luck


does asus boards have sub timings? i thought DFI was the only one that went in depth with that.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mudd* 
does asus boards have sub timings? i thought DFI was the only one that went in depth with that.

Well, here is an old pic of my bios ram settings
Attachment 94064
I believe that most of the settings I had as auto on the picture are what you call sub timings


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mudd* 
does asus boards have sub timings? i thought DFI was the only one that went in depth with that.

Mudd, they actually do. I had an Asus A8N-SLI board. The timings are located in Advanced -> CPU Configuration -> DRAM Configuration.

Hope that helps


----------



## HothBase

by the way, does anyone happen to know a good sub timings guide?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
by the way, does anyone happen to know a good sub timings guide?

Hoth, here are a few basic guides:

http://www.overclock.net/faqs/26706-...s-dummies.html
http://www.amd.com/us-en/Processors/...E13335,00.html

Perhaps someone else here can post up a "in-depth" guide.

Hope that helps


----------



## Six-eyes-Sid

Yes i have sub timings set to cas 3 4 4 8 14 16 2T

simply can't get 1T unless at rated speed.

forget HTT it was a comment thats distacting from the issue i understand HTT isn't relevant i do set too 900 ATM whilst working out my optimal speed.

If i ramp it up later and it's stable it can't be doing any harm.

let me see what i can get with HTT at 3x oh yeah same as before. lolz

These 939's are rated at 1.3v-1.35v if said cpu was a good cpu like the FX 60's are and produce more heat because of the better manufacturing would i be better off on a lower voltage like 1.3 or 1.25 as it'll give me more OC room due to heat produced when OCing at higher voltages and faster FSB's.

lower the volts less heat more OC?

i was taliking Underclocking from stock 1.35v i'm running 285x10 (2850mhz)@ 1.325v now super stable.

i'm thinking of testing by dropping VCore and seeing the results. I was asking first as if i drop too much i may require a bios reset with a pump and sli cards etc etc in the way of the reset jumper taking me 15 mins to carefully remove and replace them i try to get as much info first to reduce this pain in my side.


----------



## Six-eyes-Sid

and how do they work out the voltage is it averaged as the best voltage for all cpu's on an average scale.

IE we have 3000 various chips they appear to all work well at 1.35 so lets send them out at that voltage so as not to confuse the manufacturing of motherboards and end users.

But infact each chip is individual and the better chips produce more heat therefore work better at lower volts as oppossed to the likes of a 3800+(sorry owners) that was bottom of the scale and needed more volts to make it stable.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Here are a few RAM timings guides I rely on:

First

Second

Third

Fourth

And here's one I posted in the AMD Memory section.

I think I have one or two more at home.

Hope this helps!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Six-eyes-Sid*


Yes i have sub timings set to cas 3 4 4 8 14 16 2T

simply can't get 1T unless at rated speed.

forget HTT it was a comment thats distacting from the issue i understand HTT isn't relevant i do set too 900 ATM whilst working out my optimal speed.

If i ramp it up later and it's stable it can't be doing any harm.

let me see what i can get with HTT at 3x oh yeah same as before. lolz

These 939's are rated at 1.3v-1.35v if said cpu was a good cpu like the FX 60's are and produce more heat because of the better manufacturing would i be better off on a lower voltage like 1.3 or 1.25 as it'll give me more OC room due to heat produced when OCing at higher voltages and faster FSB's.

lower the volts less heat more OC?

i was taliking Underclocking from stock 1.35v i'm running 285x10 (2850mhz)@ 1.325v now super stable.

i'm thinking of testing by dropping VCore and seeing the results. I was asking first as if i drop too much i may require a bios reset with a pump and sli cards etc etc in the way of the reset jumper taking me 15 mins to carefully remove and replace them i try to get as much info first to reduce this pain in my side.


Six-eyes-Sid, just so we are on the right page...HTT is the reference clock speed. HT is the hypertransport speed. Perhaps we are both confusing each other









In terms of the Toledo core, the FX-60 is identical(Toledo is a Denmark ie. Opteron 1xx dual core). The only difference is the unlocked multiplier and the stepping. The TDP is the same exact thing. So technically speaking there really isn't any "better manufacturing" occurring. A single core San Diego is basically a single core Venus. The Opteron processors are probably just binned differently at the fab.

If you feel you can gain some stability with undervolting your Vcore then go for it. So far you have a pretty nice OC!

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

I'd like to see a stable undervolted overclock, well a significantly overclocked cpu that is. I don't think it is possible to overclock higher then you are while undervolting. Good luck with that.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I'd like to see a stable undervolted overclock, well a significantly overclocked cpu that is. I don't think it is possible to overclock higher then you are while undervolting. Good luck with that.










Hit up pioneerisloud for one of these. Bloody golden chips...

I'm not sure what thlnk3r's Opty 170 can do on sub-stock VCore, but that's another golden chip. Kills me to think it used to be mine...


----------



## N2Gaming

Thnx for the suggestion txtmstrjoe, Oh I think I'm finished spending money on my 939 rigs. Anther duel core would be nice for testing in the expert board but I think I'm winding down on 939 purchases and will try putting my focus towards finishing [Project]Black N Blue Baby.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


Well, here is an old pic of my bios ram settings
Attachment 94064
I believe that most of the settings I had as auto on the picture are what you call sub timings










My Asrock has those also.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*











What do I win?














And god I wish it was real...


You win the Best funny today! Cept that giveaway thread with the term papers! Lolz


----------



## Six-eyes-Sid

Well im settling on this a compromize between volts speed and low latency. not perfect in one area but over the whole a nice overclock all the same.

I could have undervolted at 2.85ghz but chose the extra speed and lower latency at the lay off of going upto 1.365v.

To be honest there has the be an overclockers law that time = overclocking -gametime to be sure in other words i've messed about with it enough time to enjoy.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=485568


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Six-eyes-Sid* 
To be honest there has the be an overclockers law that time = overclocking -gametime to be sure in other words i've messed about with it enough time to enjoy.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=485568

Six-eyes-Sid, I still think you did an excellent job with this processor.

+1 for the hard work

Good luck buddy


----------



## Blitz6804

Six-eyes-Sid: Have you remembered to check the RAM voltage? My Corsair XMS defaulted to 2.50 V, but to do the rated 2-3-3-6, I needed to manually increase the voltage to the recommended 2.75 V.

All: In my experience, the upwardly unlocked multiplier is a nice thing to have in the short term, but effectively worthless in the long term. When I first got the CPU, it was nice to increase 600 MHz without doing anything. However, comparing stock HTT with a higher multiplier versus an overclocked HTT with a lower mutliplier, the higher HTT won the day. (The RAM was about 3 MHz faster with the former, the CPU was about 5 MHz faster. The hypertransport was identical.)

Thlnk3r: As far as I know, a Toledo, while surprisingly similar to, is not a Denmark. The largest difference of course being that a Toledo needs unbuffered, unregistered RAM. The Denmark can run unbuffered RAM that is either unregistered or ECC registered. The same distinction is true of the San Diego / Venus, et cetera. While we have yet to have a member actually TEST this theory, the documentation seems to indicate this is the only difference. I am curious how the distinction is made: did AMD take lower binned chips and fry out the ECC sector of the die? Who knows. It is possible that the two are in fact different chips, as evidenced by the 4400+ coming in both 110 W and 89 W flavors. However, this could have just been a minor revision that also existed in the Opteron 175 that just went unmentioned.


----------



## danielackerman

ill second that appreciation


----------



## Blitz6804

Brand new PhII940? Nice...

In any event danielackerman, all we need to get you in is a CPU-Z validation of a 939 CPU, and you will be in!


----------



## Six-eyes-Sid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Six-eyes-Sid: Have you remembered to check the RAM voltage? My Corsair XMS defaulted to 2.50 V, but to do the rated 2-3-3-6, I needed to manually increase the voltage to the recommended 2.75 V.

All: In my experience, the upwardly unlocked multiplier is a nice thing to have in the short term, but effectively worthless in the long term. When I first got the CPU, it was nice to increase 600 MHz without doing anything. However, comparing stock HTT with a higher multiplier versus an overclocked HTT with a lower mutliplier, the higher HTT won the day. (The RAM was about 3 MHz faster with the former, the CPU was about 5 MHz faster. The hypertransport was identical.)

Thlnk3r: As far as I know, a Toledo, while surprisingly similar to, is not a Denmark. The largest difference of course being that a Toledo needs unbuffered, unregistered RAM. The Denmark can run unbuffered RAM that is either unregistered or ECC registered. The same distinction is true of the San Diego / Venus, et cetera. While we have yet to have a member actually TEST this theory, the documentation seems to indicate this is the only difference. I am curious how the distinction is made: did AMD take lower binned chips and fry out the ECC sector of the die? Who knows. It is possible that the two are in fact different chips, as evidenced by the 4400+ coming in both 110 W and 89 W flavors. However, this could have just been a minor revision that also existed in the Opteron 175 that just went unmentioned.


Yeah blitz currently on 2.75 mate. nah it's certainly the cpu holding me back furthur. I found freezes at 2940 and have backed off to 2912 atm looking stable.

The xms is currently well within it's tight timing boundaries ATM and i'm very familiar with what it can do at what timings so i try to keep within known good settings i have on paper. These settings i have tested with memtest etc.

i'm honestly torn on the higher HTT thing(can i call it FSB it's more familiuar to me) HT to me is the hypertransport bus thingy. A lower multi and higher fsb would be good but the fsb on this cpu is well beyong the rating of even my corsair at 250 i can get 310x9 with a ram divider at 333 on relaxed timings 3 cas 4 4 8 2T but the rams running at 243 or 486ddr

or 210x14 at cas 2 3 2 6 1T no memory divider 1:1 ram at 210 ddr 420

when i check it out im splitting hairs. Honest, i get 10780ish vantage both ways? were talking a difference of about 30-40 from memory


----------



## Blitz6804

You are complaining about DDR 486 with 3-4-4-8-2T? (What are tRC/tRFC? 12/14 I hope?) I would compare the bandwidth of the two possible RAM configurations: 310x9 with 200:166, loose timings and 310x9 with 200:133, tight timings. Go with whichever scores better on bandwidth and benchmark testing. Remember, when benchmarking, always run at least five runs. Discount the slowest and fastest, average the middle three.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Six-eyes-Sid*


These 939's are rated at 1.3v-1.35v if said cpu was a good cpu like the FX 60's are and produce more heat because of the better manufacturing would i be better off on a lower voltage like 1.3 or 1.25 as it'll give me more OC room due to heat produced when OCing at higher voltages and faster FSB's.

lower the volts less heat more OC?

i was taliking Underclocking from stock 1.35v i'm running 285x10 (2850mhz)@ 1.325v now super stable.

i'm thinking of testing by dropping VCore and seeing the results. I was asking first as if i drop too much i may require a bios reset with a pump and sli cards etc etc in the way of the reset jumper taking me 15 mins to carefully remove and replace them i try to get as much info first to reduce this pain in my side.



Sid voltage produces heat not overall speed of the processor. So if you have your FX60 @ 1.5v @ 2600, it should not be any hotter than if it ran @ 2800 or higher. I've observed this with all 3 of my CPU's. 2 dual and 1 single core.

But youre abolutely correct about heat and OC. If you can keep the heat out of it than you should be able to get a better OC. And that would be due in part to raising the voltage. But you also have to remember, that the higher the voltage the lower your max allowable temp is.

Also, when overvolting you can only go so far before you get migration. But thats pretty damn high, because I've gotten my Venice to POST and run @ 1.91v







But pretty much anything past 1.71v was useless and a futile attempt at an ourageous OC.

As for your BIOS reset question, cant you just pop the battery and put it back in and reset your whole BIOS to factory defaults? Thats how it is on my A8N32sli Deluxe. Theres also a deep reset procedure that Asus has, but I've ever only had to use that once.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Thlnk3r: As far as I know, a Toledo, while surprisingly similar to, is not a Denmark. The largest difference of course being that a Toledo needs unbuffered, unregistered RAM. The Denmark can run unbuffered RAM that is either unregistered or ECC registered. The same distinction is true of the San Diego / Venus, et cetera. While we have yet to have a member actually TEST this theory, the documentation seems to indicate this is the only difference. I am curious how the distinction is made: did AMD take lower binned chips and fry out the ECC sector of the die? Who knows. It is possible that the two are in fact different chips, as evidenced by the 4400+ coming in both 110 W and 89 W flavors. However, this could have just been a minor revision that also existed in the Opteron 175 that just went unmentioned.


There's no difference between a Toledo and a Denmark. ECC RAM capability, I think, resides more in the motherboard rather than the CPU. I used to run a Toledo, and I own a spate of Denmarks. The only time I ever see anything about ECC unbuffered, unregistered RAM is when I look at the BIOS...

Another point of proof lies in the internal ID coding (for lack of a more precise or correct term) AMD puts on its own chips, kind of like an SPD for the CPU, which CPU-Z and older generations of Everest used to tap into to identify your CPU. Until fairly recently (the last year, let's say), CPU-Z always used to identify Opterons by their Athlon-based core code names (i.e., Toledo for dual-cores, San Diego for single-cores).


----------



## Six-eyes-Sid

hmm, doesn't having the memory on a divider at 333 the fsb at 310, DDR actual 243/486 have a negatting effect ie the memory division reduces performance and where possible with AMD chips having it 1:1 is more efficient.
Reading from one of thinkers guides

Oh ram will do 255/510 @ 3 4 3 7 12 14 4 3 1T on my old K8nf4x albatron sadly this board can't handle the ram nearly as well. with 3 4 4 8 12 14 4 3 2T

i digress,

you think 3 4 4 8 2T is ok?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Six-eyes-Sid*


hmm, doesn't having the memory on a divider at 333 the fsb at 310, DDR actual 243/486 have a negatting effect ie the memory division reduces performance and where possible with AMD chips having it 1:1 is more efficient.
Reading from one of thinkers guides

Oh ram will do 255/510 @ 3 4 3 7 12 14 4 3 1T on my old K8nf4x albatron sadly this board can't handle the ram nearly as well. with 3 4 4 8 12 14 4 3 2T

i digress,

you think 3 4 4 8 2T is ok?


I personally have found that my memory speeds are actually slightly better with a higher HTT (FSB) and a divider, rather than leaving them at a 1:1 ratio. And I'm talking about same CPU (or close to) speed as well. But that's just me. Personally, the 166 (333) divider is the best option on my machine.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Thlnk3r: As far as I know, a Toledo, while surprisingly similar to, is not a Denmark. The largest difference of course being that a Toledo needs unbuffered, unregistered RAM. The Denmark can run unbuffered RAM that is either unregistered or ECC registered.


Blitz, how many times has this been discussed in this past? The processors are the same. The Toledo was probably gimped so it couldn't run ECC memory. This has been discussed in so many different forums and on OCN several times


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Six-eyes-Sid* 
hmm, doesn't having the memory on a divider at 333 the fsb at 310, DDR actual 243/486 have a negatting effect ie the memory division reduces performance and where possible with AMD chips having it 1:1 is more efficient.
Reading from one of thinkers guides

Oh ram will do 255/510 @ 3 4 3 7 12 14 4 3 1T on my old K8nf4x albatron *sadly this board can't handle the ram nearly as well*. with 3 4 4 8 12 14 4 3 2T

i digress,

you think 3 4 4 8 2T is ok?


Asus boards are kind of finicky like that. They only like certain specific modules. Then again theres other modules, like my kingston hyperx, that no matter what I do it doesnt like going over 200/400. But my Corsair on the other hand will easily go past that with no issues. The only difference, the corsair is on Asus's qualified vendors list and the kingston is not.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I personally have found that my memory speeds are actually slightly better with a higher HTT (FSB) and a divider, rather than leaving them at a 1:1 ratio. And I'm talking about same CPU (or close to) speed as well. But that's just me. Personally, the 166 (333) divider is the best option on my machine.

Agreed, I have found that I can run REALLY tight timings with higher HTT(FSB) and a divider.


----------



## Tator Tot

Hey guys, I was wonder, I have a 939 x2 chip. And I want to play with it. So is this a good board to put it in?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...53069R&Tpk=939


----------



## Six-eyes-Sid

ok with sucess and stability i now have

245 x 12 = 2945mhz 1:1 memory @ DDR490 3 4 3 8 12 14 4 3 2T dram idle timer says 16.

Thats more half way between the two, low fsb and high fsb with divider, any better you think? i should do some tests as i can vary the speeds on this chips nicely to see which comes out better on Vantage( rainy day checklist).


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Six-eyes-Sid* 
ok with sucess and stability i now have

245 x 12 = 2945mhz 1:1 memory @ DDR490 3 4 3 8 12 14 4 3 2T dram idle timer says 16.

Thats more half way between the two, low fsb and high fsb with divider, any better you think? i should do some tests as i can vary the speeds on this chips nicely to see which comes out better on Vantage( rainy day checklist).

Very nice Sid







You might be able to do some better, but you'll just have to try different combinations to see what works and what doesnt, your rainy day event.


----------



## jimwest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Hey guys, I was wonder, I have a 939 x2 chip. And I want to play with it. So is this a good board to put it in?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...53069R&Tpk=939

That is an awesome motherboard. I have the EVGA branded one and I absolutely love it; been using it for years and it still has a lot of life left.

Pros:
-Great easy to use and full featured BIOS
-Lots of room for expansion
-SLI compatible
-Stable and very good overclocker

Cons:
-Cooling leaves something to be desired
-Longer video cards cover SATA ports and Northbridge cooling
-No onboard video


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jimwest* 
That is an awesome motherboard. I have the EVGA branded one and I absolutely love it; been using it for years and it still has a lot of life left.

Pros:
-Great easy to use and full featured BIOS
-Lots of room for expansion
-SLI compatible
-Stable and very good overclocker

Cons:
-Cooling leaves something to be desired
-Longer video cards cover SATA ports and Northbridge cooling
-*No onboard video*

Thats a con?







And any new video card out these days will cover the chipset on almost every NF4 motherboard. Some have slightly better placement but they seem pretty uniform.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I agree with jimwest.







That Jetway is a very well-kept secret amongst S939 motherboards. The only "bad" thing I can remember from when I had that motherboard was its voltage controls: They aren't as fine as an Asus', much less a DFI LANParty's. As I recall, you can only adjust voltages in increments of .25V per adjustment.

As far as raw, brute power in OCing, though, you could do far worse.









pioneerisloud now has my old Jetway.


----------



## Tator Tot

Alright, thanks guys.

I think I'm gonna go that route then.

Slap on 2 9800GSO 348mb cards. And send it off to [email protected]


----------



## jimwest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
As I recall, you can only adjust voltages in increments of .25V per adjustment.

Yeah, that's true. I haven't had a need to fine tune my voltages though, so it's completely fine by me. Although now that you mention it, I wish I _could_ try









Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*
Thats a con? And any new video card out these days will cover the chipset on almost every NF4 motherboard. Some have slightly better placement but they seem pretty uniform.

I really like AMD motherboards because of their great onboard videos: I remember specifically when my 7600GT died and I was left with no video. As for the video card covering the NB, I just wish they used copper or had some kind of heatpipe. I guess they're not really cons, just something to consider.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jimwest* 
I really like AMD motherboards because of their great onboard videos: I remember specifically when my 7600GT died and I was left with no video. As for the video card covering the NB, I just wish they used copper or had some kind of heatpipe. I guess they're not really cons, just something to consider.

For chipset cooling you could always use something like this

I suppose you could always have onboard video, but from what Ive seen, today and years past, that the motherboards that have onboard video usually are a compromise. Not great overclockers, and the video quality was ok at best. Not to mention try to game on it. Its almost impossible.
Even the new boards out today have issues with the video, or have the chipset on the board but no way to hook it up.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I've had one great OCing mATX motherboard with IGP: Biostar's under-rated TForce 6100-939. I never pushed mine to its limits, but there is a small community of TForce 6100-939 (aka TForce 6100-M9, incidentally) enthusiasts who have seen up to 3.0GHz on their chips.

I miss that board sometimes, actually. I wish I had flogged it before I sold it to thlnk3r.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Wow, I cannot BELIEVE newegg actually has a 939 board in stock!!! To whomever asked about it, that is CERTAINLY a very nice budget lined 939 motherboard. Very well featured BIOS, however it DOES lack memory sub timing options







. However the voltage adjustments MASSIVELY make up for it







. Be careful, that motherboard can feed up to 1.95v through your CPU if you accidentally set it wrong







. I learned that with my Manny.

And it is also a good clocker to boot. I have personally taken mine to 300 HTT with ease. It could probably handle more, but I just didn't see the need for more since my chip can only do 2.4GHz.


----------



## BlackOmega

Well fellas, after doing a lot of deliberation. I dont think Ill be getting the GTX 260 after all. Ive been weighing the pros and cons of returning 1 of my cards and paying another $171. When for $175 I can have a 512mb 4870 and keep my card. So it looks as though Ill be going that route.

So heres the next question when in regards to that. Does brand really matter? Other than diamond, dose it really matter wether I get a Saphire, Asus, Visiontek or MSI? I know some of these companies offer OC'd models and fancy coolers which usually cost more, but other than that is there really a difference? Ive often wondered that. 
I've looked at the 1gb version of the 4870 and is it really worth the extra $50+ for the other 512mb of ram? Is there really that big of a performance increase over the 512 version?

AHHHHHHHH!!!! Ive read so many comparisons my head is spinning


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well fellas, after doing a lot of deliberation. I dont think Ill be getting the GTX 260 after all. Ive been weighing the pros and cons of returning 1 of my cards and paying another $171. When for $175 I can have a 512mb 4870 and keep my card. So it looks as though Ill be going that route.

So heres the next question when in regards to that. Does brand really matter? Other than diamond, dose it really matter wether I get a Saphire, Asus, Visiontek or MSI? I know some of these companies offer OC'd models and fancy coolers which usually cost more, but other than that is there really a difference? Ive often wondered that. 
I've looked at the 1gb version of the 4870 and is it really worth the extra $50+ for the other 512mb of ram? Is there really that big of a performance increase over the 512 version?

AHHHHHHHH!!!! Ive read so many comparisons my head is spinning










The main differences are the aftermarket coolers and warranty support. Visiontek and XFX are the ONLY ATI companies that offer lifetime warranties (XFX obviously offers double lifetime).

As to the 512MB vs. 1GB question:
It really depends on resolution. IMO 1680x1050 and below, the 512MB model would do fine. Anything above that model though, and you'd more than likely want to look into the 1GB model.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


The main differences are the aftermarket coolers and warranty support. Visiontek and XFX are the ONLY ATI companies that offer lifetime warranties (XFX obviously offers double lifetime).

As to the 512MB vs. 1GB question:
It really depends on resolution. IMO 1680x1050 and below, the 512MB model would do fine. Anything above that model though, and you'd more than likely want to look into the 1GB model.


 Yeah 1680x1050 is the native resolution of my monitor, which I dont plan on changing anytime soon. Hell it took me 8 years to get rid of my CRT









So the 512 it is. Thanx Pio!


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KSIMP88*


I just don't understand anymore... it's an piece of hardware... a socket. Why does it need an appreciation club? Knowledge base, however, I can understand.


Because a few guys bought into it and got screwed by 940pin CPUs which is AMDs standard right now.

Like socket 478 Pentium 4's.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Because a few guys bought into it and got screwed by 940pin CPUs which is AMDs standard right now.

Like socket 478 Pentium 4's.


Yeah, except 939 vs. 940, the chips are near identical except for the IMC (DDR1 vs. DDR2). Other than that, clock for clock, the chips are nearly identical.

Whereas if you compare 478 to 775, well.....we all know the differences there







.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Yeah, except 939 vs. 940, the chips are near identical except for the IMC (DDR1 vs. DDR2). Other than that, clock for clock, the chips are nearly identical.

Whereas if you compare 478 to 775, well.....we all know the differences there







.


Bah, my Northwood kicked all the Presscotts in the cooter for their arrogance. I rocked my Northy for 8 years!


----------



## Blitz6804

You know, I used to have a Barton 3000+; ran at 2.16 GHz. Speaking of that Barton, I am eventually going to get around to talking to my neighbor who I sold it to. She used the computer for about two months, and then bought one from BestBuy and moth-balled it. Maybe I can convince her to give it back? Then I would have some Skt A parts again and my Xaser II back again. Maybe then I can rig the San Diego up in a server-like configuration? Maybe a dedicated abandonware box? Irony?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


There's no difference between a Toledo and a Denmark. ECC RAM capability, I think, resides more in the motherboard rather than the CPU. I used to run a Toledo, and I own a spate of Denmarks. The only time I ever see anything about ECC unbuffered, unregistered RAM is when I look at the BIOS...

Another point of proof lies in the internal ID coding (for lack of a more precise or correct term) AMD puts on its own chips, kind of like an SPD for the CPU, which CPU-Z and older generations of Everest used to tap into to identify your CPU. Until fairly recently (the last year, let's say), CPU-Z always used to identify Opterons by their Athlon-based core code names (i.e., Toledo for dual-cores, San Diego for single-cores).


True, but with an Athlon64 chip, those options in the BIOS are grayed out; you cannot turn them on. I presume with an Opteron chip, no such prohibition is in place. If as you say the coding turns it on or off, if you can find a way to reprogram the microcode, you could make an Athlon64 do the ECC work of an Opteron.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I suppose you could always have onboard video, but from what Ive seen, today and years past, that the motherboards that have onboard video usually are a compromise. Not great overclockers, and the video quality was ok at best. Not to mention try to game on it. Its almost impossible. 
Even the new boards out today have issues with the video, or have the chipset on the board but no way to hook it up.


We prove this with the newest AMD chipsets, the 790*x series. The 790fx is 16x/16x, 16x/16x/4x, 16x/8x/8x, or 8x/8x/8x/8x Crossfire (depending how many cards you have) but no onboard video. The 790gx on the other hand has an onboard video processor, but as far as we have seen so far with JEmmaB, it is 8x/8x in Crossfire, and only 8x for a single card even though it is labeled as 16x.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well fellas, after doing a lot of deliberation. I dont think Ill be getting the GTX 260 after all. Ive been weighing the pros and cons of returning 1 of my cards and paying another $171. When for $175 I can have a 512mb 4870 and keep my card. So it looks as though Ill be going that route.

So heres the next question when in regards to that. Does brand really matter? Other than diamond, dose it really matter wether I get a Saphire, Asus, Visiontek or MSI? I know some of these companies offer OC'd models and fancy coolers which usually cost more, but other than that is there really a difference? Ive often wondered that. 
I've looked at the 1gb version of the 4870 and is it really worth the extra $50+ for the other 512mb of ram? Is there really that big of a performance increase over the 512 version?

AHHHHHHHH!!!! Ive read so many comparisons my head is spinning










DO NOT GET DIAMOND! The Tech support is terrible, as is the warranty. (1 year!) I personally liked Sapphire (my AGP 3850 was them). The drivers worked decently out of the box, and it was (at the time) lifetime warranty. I have also used VisionTek (for my AGP 1950xge). The only beef I had there is that they upgraded to a massive cooler, but then disabled the ability to overclock. Why...? My next card will likely be a Sapphire or MSI. Pioneerisloud has had some experience with MSI's nVidia cards.

As far as I understand, a 4870 512 MB is slightly below a GTX 280 at high resolutions, and a 4870 1024 MB is slightly above a GTX 280 at the same. I know DesertRat has the 4870 512 MB and can max out Call of Duty 4 at his native 1920x1080 with good FPS (over 70 at least). I am sure it is not as good in Crysis. The way I look at it, having been burned MANY a time with graphics cards, $50 now will save you months of regret. Just get the 1024 MB.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


*True, but with an Athlon64 chip, those options in the BIOS are grayed out; you cannot turn them on. I presume with an Opteron chip, no such prohibition i*s in place. If as you say the coding turns it on or off, if you can find a way to reprogram the microcode, you could make an Athlon64 do the ECC work of an Opteron.


Not true at all. On my A8N32-SLI Deluxe, these BIOS options are not grayed out but are user-selectable and usable depending on the RAM mounted in the board. Trust me on this, as I've played with this function back when I still ran my Toledo X2 4400+.

If ECC was easily accessible and cheap, I'd run this particular test, as I still have access to both a Denmark and a Toledo.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Alright, thanks guys.

I think I'm gonna go that route then.

Slap on 2 9800GSO 348mb cards. And send it off to [email protected]


Good choice, But I don't think you mentioned your Goal was folding in the OP. IMO there are better boards you can go with for a Dedicated Folding rig. BTW You can mod boards to fold on the PCI-E X1 slots.


----------



## Blitz6804

Whatever happened to your Toledo? Client build?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Whatever happened to your Toledo? Client build?


My dad's machine runs it. I chose poorly for his motherboard; it has a VIA K8T890 chipset, so it requires a chip with a high CPU multiplier because I can't raise the reference clock too much before OS corruption sets in (learned this the hard way, by the way).

It's still alive and kicking, and is probably the most stable OCed machine I have in the family stable. It has never ever BSoDed or crashed or hung (after I learned about the vagaries of the VIA chipset, that is).


----------



## Blitz6804

Oh darn, there went my hope.

Why haven't you updated your WC thread lately while I am poking you?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Oh darn, there went my hope.

Why haven't you updated your WC thread lately while I am poking you?

I've been meaning to share (well, actually, TAKE) pictures of the H20 parts, but I've been sick (and therefore bereft of energy). Perhaps sometime this weekend I'll be able to update the thread and share; that's what I'm hoping for, anyway.









You got a new S939 board I'm not aware of, Blitz?


----------



## Six-eyes-Sid

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Because a few guys bought into it and got screwed by 940pin CPUs which is AMDs standard right now.

Like socket 478 Pentium 4's.


}begin Rant

} LOLZ someone on my exactly wavelength AMD should have allowed 939 owners to a free motherboard and cpu upgrade they changed the pin fabrication and screwwed us all in the name of DDR2
} end rant

I was honestly heart broken as i had JUSt gotten a 939 rig at the time and it was obsolete within 4 months from memory.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Six-eyes-Sid*


}begin Rant

} LOLZ someone on my exactly wavelength AMD should have allowed 939 owners to a free motherboard and cpu upgrade they changed the pin fabrication and screwwed us all in the name of DDR2
} end rant

I was honestly heart broken as i had JUSt gotten a 939 rig at the time and it was obsolete within 4 months from memory.


So is it safe to say you are one of the few who did not get raked over the coal with pricing on your 939 rig?


----------



## Six-eyes-Sid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


So is it safe to say you are one of the few who did not get raked over the coal with pricing on your 939 rig?


Yeah wasn't too bad but i had no idea am2 was around the corner i had wisely waited till the prices dropped then upgraded.. etc etc

prices reduce means hardwares about to get better seems the moral there.


----------



## Six-eyes-Sid

scrapes off dust picks up jaw sits down and wipes tears from eyes.

Awesome that cheers mate very humorous start to my day now


----------



## N2Gaming

glad to have help'd...


----------



## Six-eyes-Sid

There's got to be a moral here.

I've been OC'ing this proscessor for like 2 weeks now. I get it satable it runs Vantage so i play a little fallout 3.

Game runs a while then freezes.

Hmm lower mem, up volts etc etc

Find out today the last nvidia whql drivers have a crash issue with fallout 3 and a new version was released today/yesterday

Thanks nvdia


----------



## Blitz6804

Once again drivers are the root of all evil.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


..................
As far as I understand, a 4870 512 MB is slightly below a GTX 280 at high resolutions, and a 4870 1024 MB is slightly above a GTX 280 at the same. I know DesertRat has the 4870 512 MB and can max out Call of Duty 4 at his native 1920x1080 with good FPS (over 70 at least). I am sure it is not as good in Crysis. The way I look at it, having been burned MANY a time with graphics cards, $50 now will save you months of regret. Just get the 1024 MB.


DesertRat has absolutely no troubles playing Crysis or Warhead on the "High" or "Enthusiast" settings at his native resolutions (1920x1080). So yes, the 4870 512 is a VERY killer video card, and would well suite 1680x1050.


----------



## Blitz6804

Caveat: I believe that High/Enthusiast is when he is on his Allendale. The Manchester still does decent FPS, but it is noticeably lower.


----------



## nategr8ns

Man, I had so many problems with Fallout 3. I really wanted to play (even though its so depressing) but every time I got to the front of SuperDuper Mart the damn game crashed and my computer locked up.
So I gave up :\\.


----------



## Blitz6804

Has the newest driver helped any? I have no clue how it runs with ATI... I haven't tried it yet.


----------



## pez

Well for me w/ my CPU holding me back only for Crysis. I can put everything on Gamer except Textures (moved to mainstream) and everything stays around 30 FPS and it rarely drops below 20. BTW, this is at 1680x1050. I don't notice a big difference b/w mainstream and gamer textures anyhow. Now Enthusiast is a different story.


----------



## nategr8ns

pez, that sounds like the memory (size not bandwidth) holding you back on the textures.


----------



## pez

yeah, well once I get those other 2 gigs of ram, hopefully that'll help a bunch. other than that though, I'm completely happy, though I'm still salivating over i7 xD.


----------



## FuzzMD

BlackOmega said to check here, I gotta figure out a way to max out the OCing on my rig.

A64 4000+ Sandy with Zalman all copper HSF
2x1GB OCZ Platinum PC3200 ram
DFI Lanparty nf4 Ultra-D
eVGA nVidia 7800GT with Zalman all copper HSF

Currently I ahve the ram and CPU barely 15% OCed, but that's the highest I can manage to get it, stable. He said you guys are the gurus.


----------



## N2Gaming

What have you tried so far. what is your fsb @ what are your memory timings and voltages? Do you have most of your bios setting set to auto? Let us know what you have done so that we don't duplicate your efforts.









Edit: also if you could edit your system to show all of your computer that would be helpfull.


----------



## Blitz6804

You can add your system configuration by clicking that link. Please fill it out to the best of your ability. Also, it would be helpful to get a screenshot of all tabs in CPU-Z so we know what exactly we are dealing with. Fifteen percent is nothing to sneeze at knowing that your CPU already stocks at 2400 MHz; but I can see why you would want to exceed 2800 MHz. We will certainly do our best to help!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FuzzMD*


BlackOmega said to check here, I gotta figure out a way to max out the OCing on my rig.

A64 4000+ Sandy with Zalman all copper HSF
2x1GB OCZ Platinum PC3200 ram
DFI Lanparty nf4 Ultra-D
eVGA nVidia 7800GT with Zalman all copper HSF

Currently I ahve the ram and CPU barely 15% OCed, but that's the highest I can manage to get it, stable. He said you guys are the gurus.


FuzzMD, welcome to OCN









If you're new to overclocking (which I'm assuming you are) it would be a good idea to check out some of the OC'ing guides. These will explain the basics and hopefully get you on your feet. Here are few that may be of some assistance:

http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...ing-guide.html
http://icrontic.com/articles/overclo...54939_platform (mainly for S754 and S939)
http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...ocket-am2.html (one of the best guides here on OCN, goes over socket AM2 but the concepts and procedures are very similiar for S754 and S939).

In my personal experience I always like to isolate each components maximum safe limit first (processor, memory and motherboard). This should give you a nice baseline to work with. Feel free to ask plenty of questions. The people in this club are very helpful.

If you can include a CPU-Z screenshot of your current set up then I'll be able to add you to the club roster.

Good luck


----------



## TestECull

Good news everyone! My 8800GS has arrived, and it seems to be everything it's cracked up to be.

Also, to those that said my Accelero wouldn't fit...meh. It bolted right on.


----------



## Blitz6804

I have to say, I am impressed with the PurePower. I would have thought the typical 500 W PSU to be insufficient for an 8800 GS together with a 2.6 GHz Manchester.


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I have to say, I am impressed with the PurePower. I would have thought the typical 500 W PSU to be insufficient for an 8800 GS together with a 2.6 GHz Manchester.



It handled an 8800GTS and P4 800/E2180 and a 3.6ghz E6xxx/HD4830 suicide. This PSU = epic.

It also has an 88cfm fan in it, ala prev owner.


----------



## Jacka

http://service.futuremark.com/compare?3dm06=9681713

My first time using ORB, but I believe the link works.

How does that compare to other single core CPUs?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jacka*


http://service.futuremark.com/compare?3dm06=9681713

My first time using ORB, but I believe the link works.

How does that compare to other single core CPUs?


That's actually not too bad







. You beat out my system when I first built it. I scored 32xx, here's the components I had (for comparison). Anything I don't list...it hasn't changed, so it can be seen in my sig.

AMD Athlon X2 Manchester 3800+ @ 2.6GHz
1GB Corsair VS DDR400 (2x512MB)
Foxconn 7600GT
Zalman 9500 AM2 Cooler (chrome plated cooler)

Come to think about it, adding the second PSU in there as well....those are the only changes I've made to my system since I built it. Not too bad!

And I scored 32xx in 3DMark06 with the above setup (mixed with my sig).

EDIT:
I also scored 49xx with a 7900GS, and my Opteron @ 3.0GHz (and 2GB of RAM). So really, you're not too bad off







.


----------



## Jacka

What was your CPU score with that Opteron @ 3.0?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jacka*


What was your CPU score with that Opteron @ 3.0?


22xx for CPU only (or right around there)

EDIT:
Excuse me, almost 23xx. It was 2288 / 2289.


----------



## Jacka

Ahh, I really hope I win the winter competition, I would absolutely love a dual core.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I have to say, I am impressed with the PurePower. I would have thought the typical 500 W PSU to be insufficient for an 8800 GS together with a 2.6 GHz Manchester.

Huh? The typical 350W PSU's are capable of handling the 88/98GT's.


----------



## XxXSpitfireXxX

Does anyone have s939 CPU for sale ? I think my 3700 just died on me....


----------



## Blitz6804

XxXSpitfireXxX: Posting a thread in the wanted section would probably be your best bet. Searching the open sales would not be a bad idea either.

Jacka: That looks about right for a single-core CPU. 3DMark is VERY CPU-heavy.


----------



## TestECull

Not bad at all. Your single is screaming, it's encroaching on my dual at 2.4 or so.

Also...wat


----------



## Blitz6804

A 3700+ running at 12x200 is Socket 754. A 3700+ running at 11x200 is Socket 939. Hope that clears it up.


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


A 3700+ running at 12x200 is Socket 754. A 3700+ running at 11x200 is Socket 939. Hope that clears it up.



Even more wat

For that price, one can have an i7 or Phenom II...

Also, Jacka: With an X1900XT 256 I scored 5149 3DMarks. I should re-test mine with this 8800GS, prolly score quite a bit better. Then again, I'm also stockclocking my CPU, too lazy to shut down and OC it.


----------



## Jacka

The names and speeds of AMD chips is rather inconsistent.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jacka*


The names and speeds of AMD chips is rather inconsistent.


It's AMD Marketing's response to Intel's own marketing practices during the so-called Megahertz Wars. When Netburst was Intel's contender, Intel tried to convince everyone that it was all about clock speed. To combat this, AMD decided to name their Athlon64s so that they would theoretically reflect the equivalent clock speeds P4s would have to reach to match an Athlon64. Therefore, a Netburst-era P4 would have to run 3.7GHz to match AMD's Athlon64 3700+ (which ran at a true clock speed of 2.4GHz).


----------



## Jacka

So a 3700+ Socket 754 runs at 2.4 GHz, which is around the same speed as a 939 3700+, which only runs at 2.2 GHz?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jacka* 
So a 3700+ Socket 754 runs at 2.4 GHz, which is around the same speed as a 939 3700+, which only runs at 2.2 GHz?

Essentially, yes. What this also shows quite clearly that S939 is more efficient than either S754 or a Netburst P4. It does the same amount of work in fewer clock cycles.

It also shows that it's not all about clock cycles; the far more important performance metric (as far as I'm concerned, anyway) is how much you can do in one clock cycle in comparison to other chips. What this means is, if you can make all chips run at the same clock speed, the more efficient CPU will do far more work than less efficient CPUs. This is the great advantage that Intel's Core2 and i7s have over the K8s.


----------



## nategr8ns

wow joe, +








Never knew that.


----------



## XxXSpitfireXxX

In your opinion, what would be better, a dual core Opteron 165 (overclock to say, at least 2.8Ghz) or an overclocked FX-51 single core? I mean for current games, and which one would bottleneck my HD4850 the most ?


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *XxXSpitfireXxX*


In your opinion, what would be better, a dual core Opteron 165 (overclock to say, at least 2.8Ghz) or an overclocked FX-51 single core? I mean for current games, and which one would bottleneck my HD4850 the most ?


Dual core for today's games. I would recommend the single core only for older games that cannot utilize both of the multiple cores properly, though those games are most of the time not demanding enough to be slowed down by an opty 165.

Edit: forgot to thank thlnk3r and joe for the ram timing guides, thanks. they made good reading.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *XxXSpitfireXxX* 
In your opinion, what would be better, a dual core Opteron 165 (overclock to say, at least 2.8Ghz) or an overclocked FX-51 single core? I mean for current games, and which one would bottleneck my HD4850 the most ?

Always, the dual-core for me. FX-series chips (or any other chips with unlocked multipliers) only make sense if your only way to OC is to change the CPU multiplier upwards (I would always favor a motherboard that could scale its reference clock superbly well over a fully-unlocked chip, at any case).


----------



## TestECull

Dual core...omg a dual core. It's a must.


----------



## Blitz6804

MHz for MHz, the Opteron 165 would slaughter the FX-51. It would even hurt an FX-55 by a good margin. The only way the FX-51 would make sense is if you could clock it well in excess of 4 GHz.


----------



## XxXSpitfireXxX

Makes sense, thanks a lot !


----------



## pez

*sigh*, how I long for a better OC'ing CPU







. I'm gonna have to find out where one of you w/ one lives *grins evily*.


----------



## Grandlo

this thread makes me miss my opty165 build, just retired *sniffles* had the little basterd at 2.9 24/7


----------



## Blitz6804

Have any old CPU-Zs from it? We can hook you up with the "Nostolgics" section. What happened with the 165? Death or peaceful retirement? If the latter, I can guarantee there will be people here interested in it.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
As far as I understand, a 4870 512 MB is slightly below a GTX 280 at high resolutions, and a 4870 1024 MB is slightly above a GTX 280 at the same. I know DesertRat has the 4870 512 MB and can max out Call of Duty 4 at his native 1920x1080 with good FPS (over 70 at least). I am sure it is not as good in Crysis. The way I look at it, having been burned MANY a time with graphics cards, $50 now will save you months of regret. Just get the 1024 MB.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
DesertRat has absolutely no troubles playing Crysis or Warhead on the "High" or "Enthusiast" settings at his native resolutions (1920x1080). So yes, the 4870 512 is a VERY killer video card, and would well suite 1680x1050.

Thanx guys







1gb it is









In case you guys were wondering......







Ive been moving over the last several days, of course it HAD to be -10*F the whole freakin time







.
Finally over and I got the phone/internet working. The guy who we got the house from didnt hook the wiring up







None too pleased about that one. Had to tear down some drop ceiling tiles, broke 2 in the process







O well at least the house is pretty cool, hardwood floors, jacuzzi bathtub, 2.5 car garage, partially finished basement, all new everything inside. Ahh now finally some rest.


----------



## jimwest

2.75ghz @ 1.475v (275x10)

I just reinstalled Windows XP Pro since Vista64 was giving me problems with my Creative Drivers. Once I had everything set up and it was time to re-overclock, I decided to try to take it a bit further. This is the fastest I could take it and it seems stable. I ran Crysis for about 30mins with no problems, but when I ran Prime95, Core1 had an error whereas Core0 was fine. I'm going to run 3DMark06 and Prime95 again to check for consistency. Lots to think about today...


----------



## N2Gaming

kuoolll


----------



## thlnk3r

Jimwest, looks good. Let me know when you have found a stable overclock. I'll make the necessary changes to the roster to reflect your new OC!

Good luck


----------



## jimwest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Jimwest, looks good. Let me know when you have found a stable overclock. I'll make the necessary changes to the roster to reflect your new OC!

Good luck









Yeah, I actually finished the 3dmark06:








Not bad for a 4 year old motherboard.

Prime95 time, wish me luck.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jimwest* 
Yeah, I actually finished the 3dmark06:








Not bad for a 4 year old motherboard.

Prime95 time, wish me luck.

Jimwest, nice score









How much voltage are you pumping into that Manchester? Are the CPU-Z screen shots displaying the correct voltage? Try loosening your memory sub-timings a bit. Try 2.5-3-3-5 2T.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jimwest* 
Yeah, I actually finished the 3dmark06:








Not bad for a 4 year old motherboard.

Prime95 time, wish me luck.

ya and I just did that 3dmark06 myself on a am2 system with a 9800gt oc and I did not even get 9000 points. I have not tweeked the sytem yet just playing with a returned rma board and seing if it works like it should. maybe it's not working like it should...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
ya and I just did that 3dmark06 myself on a am2 system with a 9800gt oc and I did not even get 9000 points. I have not tweeked the sytem yet just playing with a returned rma board and seing if it works like it should. maybe it's not working like it should...









N2Gaming, in terms of comparison what was the cpu score, sm2.0 and sm3.0 scores? What are the hardware specifications of this machine?


----------



## N2Gaming

think3r: HERE is the post from my score. I only have the trial version 3dmark06 so I don't know if I can check the cpu and other scores. I have a m2n32 sli deluxe, amd x2 5400+ BE stock spds, 2x1gig corsair xmx2 pc 6400 bfg 9800gt oc stock pds, seagate sata 7000 rmp 500 gig 32mb cache HDD, xp pro x64bit thermaltake toughpower 700w sli ready, lg ide dvd drive. I think I may have to reload os and drivers. I have been noticing some erratic behaviors since my first clean install on a rma'd m2nboard and I'm thinking the board may be the culprit. I will test and confirm with my other identical mobo...

Thanks for asking...









Edit: for some reason the 3dmark06 score has vanished. guess I should have print screen'd and saved it. oh well easy come easy go...


----------



## jimwest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Jimwest, nice score









How much voltage are you pumping into that Manchester? Are the CPU-Z screen shots displaying the correct voltage? Try loosening your memory sub-timings a bit. Try 2.5-3-3-5 2T.

Good luck

Thanks thlnk3r, she makes me proud







.

On the laptop here: I've never touch RAM timings anymore since I've had horrible luck with them. With the timing at 2.5-3-3-5/2T, what should the Bank Cycle Time (tRC) be? Now it's at 8 clocks, but I remember did a similar timing (2-3-2-5) and I put it on auto, ended up being 12 clocks. Would that speed be too slow?


----------



## jimwest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
think3r: HERE is the post from my score. I only have the trial version 3dmark06 so I don't know if I can check the cpu and other scores. I have a m2n32 sli deluxe, amd x2 5400+ BE stock spds, 2x1gig corsair xmx2 pc 6400 bfg 9800gt oc stock pds, seagate sata 7000 rmp 500 gig 32mb cache HDD, xp pro x64bit thermaltake toughpower 700w sli ready, lg ide dvd drive. I think I may have to reload os and drivers. I have been noticing some erratic behaviors since my first clean install on a rma'd m2nboard and I'm thinking the board may be the culprit. I will test and confirm with my other identical mobo...

Thanks for asking...









Edit: for some reason the 3dmark06 score has vanished. guess I should have print screen'd and saved it. oh well easy come easy go...


Strange, your hardware beats mine in every category (even at stock). I remember when I had Vista64, I had a lot of issues with 3dmark06. From what I've read, Futuremark didn't release an official 64bit version. My cousin had that board and it's pretty fast (even with a 1000mt), so I'm sorry to hear about your problems. Hope everything works out.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jimwest*


Strange, your hardware beats mine in every category (even at stock). I remember when I had Vista64, I had a lot of issues with 3dmark06. From what I've read, Futuremark didn't release an official 64bit version. My cousin had that board and it's pretty fast (even with a 1000mt), so I'm sorry to hear about your problems. Hope everything works out.


yeah I get the same or better score with my sli dr board and a 8600 gts card and sli cards.


----------



## N2Gaming

I just ran the test with 2x 9800 gt oc and the video displayed was all jack'd and the score still sucked for two cards. I'm gonna try them in my other m2n system and see if I get same or better results then this.


----------



## Blitz6804

jimwest: tRC is ideally tRP+tRAS. Since you have tRP=3 and tRAS=5, tRC should be 8. tRFC should be 10, 11, or 12 depending on whichever gives you the best stability. tRC is much more influential on bandwidth/stability than tRFC however.

N2Gaming: A 5400+ BE at stock is 2.6 GHz. His CPU is running at 2.75 GHz. Even with the lower cache, I would expect the two to be very close. If your Brisbane is like mine, memory bandwidth is very inefficient compared to a Skt939/DDR combo. Stock (13x200, 400:200) my RAM netted about 5400 MBps. This is only marginally higher than when I was running 4 GB DDR 400. Depending on your timings, his DDR 367 could very well be out bandwidthing you, which would put a serious hurt on your 3DMark06 score. It seems every 100 MBps correlates to about 50 3DMarks (overall) based on my past results.

For the record, your CPU score is LOW for a 2.6 GHz dual-core processor. My stock Toledo scored about that.


----------



## N2Gaming

huh, really I thought the 5400+ BE was stock at 2.8ghz well it's at 2800mhz right now. I'm just gonna put one card in my other m2n32 sytem and see what kind of results I get with 4 gig of ocz ram instread of 2 gig of corsair. hopefully I see a big diff. plus I'll oc the cpu to a better mhz. hold tight I'll be back shortly w/results...


----------



## Blitz6804

You know, in hindsight, I think you are right. 14x200. I dropped my multi to 13x and forgot about that. IN ANY EVENT: I think you need to look at your RAM. RAM capacity should not matter. RAM speed makes a huge difference.

ALTHOUGH: This should be either in BnBB's thread or in the AM2 club.


----------



## N2Gaming

sorry for that I was only going on 3dmark06 scores and compaing between 939 and am2.


----------



## jimwest

Hurray, it's official! 2.75 is my stable overclock. I don't feel good about taking the vCore to 1.5 or higher, so I'll stay here. The holy 2.8 eludes me.


----------



## Name Change

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jimwest*


Hurray, it's official! 2.75 is my stable overclock. I don't feel good about taking the vCore to 1.5 or higher, so I'll stay here. The holy 2.8 eludes me.


Nice oc.


----------



## TestECull

Jim: Grab a better cooler and up the Vcore a bit! 2.8 is soooo close, it's worth it if only to get the CPU-z and maybe a bench or two.

I'm crazy enough to run it 24/7 tho


----------



## Glarson




----------



## Jacka

What sort of voltage would a 90nm single core San Diego be safe to run at 18/7?


----------



## Blitz6804

Likely no more than 1.450, 1.500 V if you are gutsy; it depends on your temperatures.

Glarson: Welcome to the club! Thlnk3r or Txtmstrjoe will add you to the on-site roster when they have a chance. I will add you to the off-site roster when I have the chance. Expect mine to take longer. (Just ask Name Change and Six-eyes-Sid who have pending speed changes, and jimwest who is still waiting to join since 01/15.)


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I just ran the test with 2x 9800 gt oc and the video displayed was all jack'd and the score still sucked for two cards. I'm gonna try them in my other m2n system and see if I get same or better results then this.










hmm that's strange. My 3DMark06 score is in my sig, but that's what I get with 2 cards. With one I got 9275, so it only went up about 500 w/ the second. I really wanna get 2.6 to be stable on this CPU. Curse the manchester OC'ing plague >.<.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jimwest* 
Hurray, it's official! 2.75 is my stable overclock. I don't feel good about taking the vCore to 1.5 or higher, so I'll stay here. The holy 2.8 eludes me.

Jimwest, do you have an updated cpu-z validation link that I could use to update the roster? Great job on the OC









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Glarson* 


Glarson, welcome to the club. You've been added to the roster.

Blitz, does tRP and tRAS always have to equal tRC?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I just ran the test with 2x 9800 gt oc and the video displayed was all jack'd and the score still sucked for two cards. I'm gonna try them in my other m2n system and see if I get same or better results then this.

N2Gaming, perhaps a driver conflict or a certain setting is hindering your 3DMark06 performance. The default test with my current setup turned in a 10,700. The CPU score does also look pretty low.

Good luck guys


----------



## txtmstrjoe

thlnk3r, thank you for adding Glarson to our roster.









(I will kneel before Zod later.







) (inside joke)

Just speaking for myself here, it sure is nice to never have to worry about benchmarks... or multi-GPU setups.


----------



## Six-eyes-Sid

9000's is low IMHO for that setup. I score 10700-10900 in vantage with my rig. i'm running 8800's my score is pretty much the same wether im doing 9x300 or 14x200 .

After getting the hardware setup the next thing is your software. I correctly configured system will gain you a bigger boost now. So will configuring things like services background programs etc.

I use blackvipers services guide to disable all unessesary services.

I have my nforce settings set to performance and tweaked to my preferences. Performance tweaks.

getting the bios motherboard drivers etc's just one side of overclocking, getting your software running optimally is the other.


----------



## Six-eyes-Sid

Oh and download and install nhancer it's for sli systems and will configure the right sli performance mode for each game or application or force the setting to afr 1 (alternate frame rendering 1) in the nforce setting.

if your using one monitor make sure sli mode is single display mode rendering is afr 1

retry the app 3dmark 06 and see what if it's improved


----------



## N2Gaming

The strangest thing just happened and I just had to share it. It scared me when I first realized what happened but then I was able relaxed a little after I looked at the cpu pins and realized that none of them got bent. I hope my mobo is ok.

So here is what happend. I was removing a stock amd 3500+ heatsink/fan to install a zalman 9700 and the cpu came right out of the socket stuck to the heatsink. so the hard part is not over with yet. I still have to remove the cpu from the heat sink. Any idea's on how I should go about this w/o damaging the cpu...


----------



## thlnk3r

N2Gaming, no worries. This happens to me all the time at Home and at Work. As long as the cooler was removed by just pulling it straight up then you should fine. Removing it sideways probably would have bent a few pins.

Try twisting the processor clockwise and counter clockwise back and forth. See if that helps. That always seems to do the trick for me. I would mention a few other tactics but they are foolish and probably not wise to do









Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

think3r, thanks I used a pair of needle nose to place under the pcb on the ihs and tristed as you suggested and it came right off. the el cheapo stock 3500+ heat shink got a scratch in the process. Oh well live and learn.









Edit: I guess this gives me a reason to practice lapping


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
think3r, thanks I used a pair of needle nose to place under the pcb on the ihs and tristed as you suggested and it came right off. the el cheapo stock 3500+ heat shink got a scratch in the process. Oh well live and learn.









N2Gaming, that was one of my "ghetto" tactics that I was going to suggest but it sometimes has some repercussions. You could easily just lap the base to get rid of the scratches...that's of course if you have time on your hands









Glad you got it fixed!


----------



## N2Gaming

think3r, yeah I guess all ghetto tricks have a time and place.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

A general tip that's particularly useful for anytime you need to remove the heatsink from your CPU: Run it through at max load for a minute or so prior to shutting the machine down and then removing the heatsink. The heat load will soften up the TIM and make removal of the cooler easy-peasy, Japan-easy.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
A general tip that's particularly useful for anytime you need to remove the heatsink from your CPU: Run it through at max load for a minute or so prior to shutting the machine down and then removing the heatsink. The heat load will soften up the TIM and make removal of the cooler easy-peasy, Japan-easy.









It just goes to show I'm still a newb. I only get to remove heatsinks & cpu on my own pc's when ever I make hardware changes. which is not that often. I remember you mentioning that trick of running the pc under load for about a minute from your previous post's and that was one of the first things I thought about right after it happened. I guess patience is a virtue and haste makes waste...lol

thank you txtmstrjoe.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Sorry to butt in, but I figured I'd poke my head in here again. I have S939 goodies in the mail. My Opty 180 has gone to a good home (friend in need, 3500+ isn't made for gaming...), but I snagged his old motherboard and Grif's Opty 148 for my new HTPC. Build log to come, hopefully it'll all be together in a week or two.


----------



## N2Gaming

keep us posted with your htpc build.

I have a quick question.

Is amd virtualization required for running x64 based OS's or is it more for energy effeciency?

I'm trying to figure out if I should be using amd virtualization or not...


----------



## TestECull

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
The strangest thing just happened and I just had to share it. It scared me when I first realized what happened but then I was able relaxed a little after I looked at the cpu pins and realized that none of them got bent. I hope my mobo is ok.

So here is what happend. I was removing a stock amd 3500+ heatsink/fan to install a zalman 9700 and the cpu came right out of the socket stuck to the heatsink. so the hard part is not over with yet. I still have to remove the cpu from the heat sink. Any idea's on how I should go about this w/o damaging the cpu...











































That's very common with S478 intel chips, but I've never seen an S939 do it. i figured with 939 pins, there'd be too much holding force for that to happen....thermal pad maybe?


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
That's very common with S478 intel chips, but I've never seen an S939 do it. i figured with 939 pins, there'd be too much holding force for that to happen....thermal pad maybe?

Or thermal adhesive??


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
That's very common with S478 intel chips, but I've never seen an S939 do it. i figured with 939 pins, there'd be too much holding force for that to happen....thermal pad maybe?

To be quite honest it was an AM2 but this club is the most attentive out of all the clubs I visit. Thanks for that.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


keep us posted with your htpc build.

I have a quick question.

Is amd virtualization required for running x64 based OS's or is it more for energy effeciency?

I'm trying to figure out if I should be using amd virtualization or not...










I don't remember a setting like that in BIOS (?) And I run x64 Vista perfectly fine.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


I don't remember a setting like that in BIOS (?) And I run x64 Vista perfectly fine.


You are about 2 minutes before I post the new results on a fresh clean os install. I did not have service pack 2 installed before and I'm thinking that may have had a little impact in the score. Another member in a earlier post mentioned optimizing my system os and so on but I'm not that technical and to cheap to purchase software for doing such things that I really don't understand. Any way my score just came up. have pics in a second


----------



## N2Gaming

pretty good imporovement for only using one card...

cpu was upped by 500mhz. maybe that has a little to do w/it.


----------



## TestECull

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
To be quite honest it was an AM2 but this club is the most attentive out of all the clubs I visit. Thanks for that.


One more pin isn't gonna hold all that much stronger when there's over 900 of them to begin with


----------



## N2Gaming

OK this is the last post regarding this issue of 3dmark06 scores and I'll drop it blitz. It turns out my sli bridge was damaged. Don't ask me how cause I don't remember doing this but never the less I had a suspicion and decided to check it out after having the same problem in a completely different mobo. Anyway I replaced the sli bridge and here is a couple of pics of my final score with the two cards sli'd and running properly.







So happy it was an easy fix.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


To be quite honest it was an AM2 but this club is the most attentive out of all the clubs I visit. Thanks for that.


I usually grab them and twist to the side. Just being careful.

Happended to my AM2 4000+ x2, my S478 P4 2.6, Northy, 3800+ x2 939,

It always happens cept on S775 chips. Because of that metal plate that holds the chips down.


----------



## BlackOmega

The cpu being held to the cooler has only happend to me once, with my opty 180 of all processors







. Didnt bend any pins, I just grabbed the PCB with my fingers and twisted it it slowly but firmly and it came right off. After that Ive been really careful as to how I remove my coolers. If possible, after disconnecting them from the bracket, I twist the whoel cooler before I even attempt to remove (lift) it.


----------



## N2Gaming

That never happened to me so I was a little shell shocked and freaked out right when the heatsink come off the board and I looked at where the cpu was suppose to be and saw that it was not there . I can laugh now but when it happened I though to myself what the ***K. So then I quickly turned the heatsink over to check the pins. wiped forehead and breathed a sigh of relief...







All was ok. That just happens to be the mobo and cpu that I posted the 3dmark06 scores with a few post's ago.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, does tRP and tRAS always have to equal tRC?


No. When tRP + tRAS = tRC, you are in the realm of the "ideal" setting. If tRC is tighter, you risk instability. When looser, you lose bandwidth. Some speeds will require a looser tRC. (As we saw with my nForce3 chipset. 3-4-4-8-2T-12-16 @ 200:133 would not POST for 11x255. On the other hand, 2.5-3-3-8-2T-19-22 @ 200:166 worked fine in excess of 11x260. Oh well, the best-laid plans...)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Is amd virtualization required for running x64 based OS's or is it more for energy effeciency?


I never found a reason to shut it off. The setting is if you wish to run a guest OS in a Host OS. If you do not do that, you do not need it.

I am glad to see the PC is not dead. Also glad to see that the SLI-bridge replacement fixed both cards working in SLI. It is incredible how much your CPU score shot up from such a small tweak. Very creepy.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


pretty good imporovement for only using one card...

cpu was upped by 500mhz. maybe that has a little to do w/it.



















Yeah, the CPU is the biggest factor in 3DMark06. I mean, if I had a quad clocked to 2.8, I'd most likely have a score of at least 16k. My CPU does slow me down in some games (namely CSS) b/c of Vista and it eating up CPU usage while playing a CPU intensive game like CSS. That's the only reason I miss XP.


----------



## BlackOmega

Ok so Ive starting messing around with my CFX3200 board, and as I should, I started with testing the FSB limit. So far got it to around 290. Now this was the whereabouts of where I needed to up the chipset voltage on my NF4 board. So I go into the BIOS and come to find out there are 2 NB voltage settings. 1 says NB Analog voltage and the other says NB Core Voltage. Im honestly at a loss here, which do you change? Core? Analog? Both?


----------



## nzbleach

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
That never happened to me so I was a little shell shocked and freaked out right when the heatsink come off the board and I looked at where the cpu was suppose to be and saw that it was not there . I can laugh now but when it happened I though to myself what the ***K. So then I quickly turned the heatsink over to check the pins. wiped forehead and breathed a sigh of relief...







All was ok. That just happens to be the mobo and cpu that I posted the 3dmark06 scores with a few post's ago.

Ohh man I've done that before! Scary stuff. So whenever I take off the heatsink I twist now.


----------



## lemans81

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Ok so Ive starting messing around with my CFX3200 board, and as I should, I started with testing the FSB limit. So far got it to around 290. Now this was the whereabouts of where I needed to up the chipset voltage on my NF4 board. So I go into the BIOS and come to find out there are 2 NB voltage settings. 1 says NB Analog voltage and the other says NB Core Voltage. Im honestly at a loss here, which do you change? Core? Analog? Both?

I have sig rig running 320fsb.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I never found a reason to shut it off. The setting is if you wish to run a guest OS in a Host OS. If you do not do that, you do not need it.

I am glad to see the PC is not dead. Also glad to see that the SLI-bridge replacement fixed both cards working in SLI. It is incredible how much your CPU score shot up from such a small tweak. Very creepy.


Thanks for the AMD virtulization answere. I just disabled it and seems like the system runs fine w/o it.

So your saying a 500mhz OC is a small tweek?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Yeah, the CPU is the biggest factor in 3DMark06. I mean, if I had a quad clocked to 2.8, I'd most likely have a score of at least 16k. My CPU does slow me down in some games (namely CSS) b/c of Vista and it eating up CPU usage while playing a CPU intensive game like CSS. That's the only reason I miss XP.


I guess it does not help that your mobo limits you to 4 gig of ram.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nzbleach*


Ohh man I've done that before! Scary stuff. So whenever I take off the heatsink I twist now.


I would have done that but the cpu socket what completely surrounding the heat sink so the only thing I could do is try to pull it up while leaning it to one side but the whole thing just poped off like the toast was done...


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thanks for the AMD virtulization answere. I just disabled it and seems like the system runs fine w/o it.

So your saying a 500mhz OC is a small tweek?

I guess it does not help that your mobo limits you to 4 gig of ram.

I would have done that but the cpu socket what completely surrounding the heat sink so the only thing I could do is try to pull it up while leaning it to one side but the whole thing just poped off like the toast was done...


yeah, that's true, but I'll be upgrading soon enough.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
yeah, that's true, but I'll be upgrading soon enough.

Are you going to stay on the Rebel force and stick with AMD or will you be going to the Dark side of the force and using Intel???


----------



## Jacka

Dibs on the Redline.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Is amd virtualization required for running x64 based OS's or is it more for energy effeciency?

I'm trying to figure out if I should be using amd virtualization or not...









N2Gaming, with the "amd virtualization" option enabled that just means it'll offload any type of virtualization (being software) to the hardware. VMWare works great with this extension enabled but it's not required. Microsofts VM software will work without it but highly recommends it. Intel's version (IVT) uses different code the AMD's virtualization but it's under the same concept. Unless you're running any type of virtualization software then you can keep it disabled in the BIOS.

Glad you found the problem behind your SLI issues.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, with the "amd virtualization" option enabled that just means it'll offload any type of virtualization (being software) to the hardware. VMWare works great with this extension enabled but it's not required. Microsofts VM software will work without it but highly recommends it. Intel's version (IVT) uses different code the AMD's virtualization but it's under the same concept. Unless you're running any type of virtualization software then you can keep it disabled in the BIOS.

Glad you found the problem behind your SLI issues.

Good luck










think3r, thank you. I am not able to run crysis64 bit I'm wondering if the disabled amd virtualization has something to do with it. prolly not...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


think3r, thank you. I am not able to run crysis64 bit I'm wondering if the disabled amd virtualization has something to do with it. prolly not...


N2Gaming, the virtualization extension in the BIOS is only for virtualization software such as vmware, hyper-v ect.

Hope that answers your question


----------



## N2Gaming

Yes think3r it does thanks....


----------



## pioneerisloud

Sigh

Check my sig rig guys







. My main rig has died. I don't know yet if it is a PSU or motherboard flaw. But something definitely died this morning







.

I will be checking later to find out if there's any possible way there's just a short somewhere. That would be nice, and that's what I'm hoping for. If that is not the case, I am hoping it is just my motherboard that went. My motherboard is still under warranty, so that'll be nice. If its PSU, well I'll be screwed till at least April. And well, I don't know what else it could possibly be.

Symptoms:
I turned my computer off by going into "Hybernation" mode this morning. I came back...I now have nothing. It will not turn on.

I have a green LED on on my motherboard. And when I hit my power button, the LED on my GPU comes on. But no fans come on (not even GPU fan), and there's no POST. I press and hold my power button, and the GPU's LED turns off. So it is sensing that its supposed to be on...but no power is flowing to actually start it up.

I have no clue what could be causing this, so for the time being, I'm on what's in my sig. With no GPU drivers installed because they appear to crash XP. Go figure.

EDIT:
What I have tried:
I have tested RAM, RAM isn't the issue. I've tried all four sticks in all four slots (one at a time), and that didn't help. I tried moving my GPU to my other PCIe slot, nothing. I tried resetting CMOS, nothing.


----------



## thlnk3r

Pio, sounds like it got stuck in hibernation mode (obviously). Did you ever get a chance to pick up a new PSU? I know you were trying to save up for one. The rig in question is your Athlon MP system correct?

Good luck


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pio, sounds like it got stuck in hibernation mode (obviously). Did you ever get a chance to pick up a new PSU? I know you were trying to save up for one. The rig in question is your Athlon MP system correct?

Good luck


No man, the rig in question that is dead, is my main rig. My Opty165 rig. And the stupid thing just won't turn on







. R.I.P.

The Athlon MP rig....that's the rig I'm on now, because my main rig is dead. This is all I have now







.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


No man, the rig in question that is dead, is my main rig. My Opty165 rig. And the stupid thing just won't turn on







. R.I.P.

The Athlon MP rig....that's the rig I'm on now, because my main rig is dead. This is all I have now







.


Pio, why are you already making funeral arrangements for this rig? Pull the hardware out and start testing.

EDIT: Ohhh this is the machine running the dual power supplies *cough* . Have you tried testing with a single PSU?

Good luck


----------



## Tator Tot

Can I be apart of the nostalgics. I'm currently building a 939 rig. I have the RAM, board, Card. Just need to find a CPU. then slap in a PSU and cheapo case.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pio, why are you already making funeral arrangements for this rig? Pull the hardware out and start testing.

EDIT: Ohhh this is the machine running the dual power supplies *cough* . Have you tried testing with a single PSU?

Good luck


All in time







.

I have currently been up for like 32 hours straight now. So I am not going to even attempt to resurrect that build just yet. So I said fine, I can handle installing Windows. So I'm on my future server build in the meantime, just so I'm up and running.

Once I'm not dead tired, I will of course test out my rig and find the problem. I've just literally KILLED one too many rigs while I'm this tired, so I am not about to try to tinker with physical hardware. I don't do that anymore, lol. Last time I tinkered with physical hardware while I was this tired, a Socket A rig went up in smoke (quite literally too).


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Last time I tinkered with physical hardware while I was this tired, a Socket A rig went up in smoke (quite literally too).


Pio, I remember that









Get some sleep and report back later.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pio, I remember that









Get some sleep and report back later.


I don't remember posting it here, but I may have







.

Long story short....
Socket A rigs are NOT meant to run inside a motherboard box without ventiliation. Go figure







. And that idea is ESPECIALLY bad, when you set it up, turn [email protected] on on it, and then leave it overnight. Boy that was a bad smell the next morning, and a very disappointed pio







.

Anyways, yes I will of course report back tomorrow with a status update as to what's wrong with my main rig. I just had to have SOMETHING to tinker on today. I can't fall asleep until at least 6pm PST, or else my sleeping schedule will stay screwed up. I'm trying my hardest to get on a "normal" sleeping schedule, so I can continue my hunt for work.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
And the stupid thing just won't turn on







. R.I.P.

I just repaired 5 PS's today and took pics so the FAQ I'll be writing shortly may come in handy for you. Sounds like PS to me.


----------



## Jacka

Hurry up!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
I just repaired 5 PS's today and took pics so the FAQ I'll be writing shortly may come in handy for you. Sounds like PS to me.

Hueristic, I am definitely looking forward to this. Please provide a link in the thread when your FAQ is done


----------



## pioneerisloud

I am also looking forward to it, if it turns out to be a PSU issue that I'm having.


----------



## TestECull

Fail OC is fail.

It was stable enough, at 1.656Vcore, to boot and validate. I could not get it to make it more than 45 seconds into 06 without crashing, and at that voltage anything higher will kill the only 939 chip I have, so I backed it off to 2.69 and 1.58V. I hesitate to even call it an OC, it's not stable so I don't see it as one...


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jacka* 
Hurry up!










Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Hueristic, I am definitely looking forward to this. Please provide a link in the thread when your FAQ is done










Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I am also looking forward to it, if it turns out to be a PSU issue that I'm having.

As soon as I finish watching Digination I'll Edit the pics. Damn battery on the camera died so I won't have the finished pics up today. I borrowed the camera 3 days ago forgot the usb connector to upload the pics went today to get the usb and didn't get the power charger LOL! I swear I'm ******ed. Anyone know if there's a outine for faqs here? I haven't done one here yet and haven't written a tutorial since 1990.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *lemans81* 
I have sig rig running 320fsb.

Did you have to crank up your NB voltage at all? Im sure my board will go higher Im just not sure _which_ setting I need to crank up. Analog or core? I suppose it wouldnt hurt to crank up either or both







. But I'd rather know which one is _supposed_ to be changed, and not guess.

Pio, have you tried the deep CMOS reset? I had a problem once with my board where it didnt wanna power up similar to yours. After digging around on Asus's website, I found a hard CMOS procedure. So strip your rig down to the bare essentials, 1 stick of RAM, maybe put in an older video card if you have one that doesnt require a seperate PSU (just to rule that out), 1 HDD, etc.
Then pop out the battery, put it in backwards (yes backwards), for 30 seconds. Reinstall normally then try to power up. If you get it to post hop into BIOS and turn everything back to stock settings for now. Then get it to get in to windows and make sure everythings OK. And just to be on the safe side (this is what I did when my asus rig didnt wanna power up), add 1 stick of RAM at a time. If everything is ok, then add each item you took out 1 at a time.

If that still doesnt work, with it stripped down, and the lesser video card (if you have one), hook up that 430w PSU and see if it'll boot. That PSU should be enough at least to get it to power up and rule out your PSU.

Good luck buddy,


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
So strip your rig down to the bare essentials, 1 stick of RAM, maybe put in an older video card if you have one that doesnt require a seperate PSU (just to rule that out), 1 HDD, etc.


----------



## TestECull

Well, even 2.69 is unstable. Flailsauce. Back to sig OC for now, atleast I know it's not going anywhere.


----------



## pioneerisloud

@BlackOmega:
I will keep that in mind for tomorrow's ventures. I've never heard of that procedure before, I'll give it a try at least. Thanks.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Are you going to stay on the Rebel force and stick with AMD or will you be going to the Dark side of the force and using Intel???









Actually, I'll most likely go to the dark side. AMD has been really unimpressive lately except for ATI. I like the options of being able to Crossfire or SLI...on the same board. It really might break down to cost. I'm thinking b/c of demand, i could get about $70 for the CPU, $120-140 for ALL 4 sticks of the RAM, and like another 70 for the motherboard. Hopefully I could let it go as a package as well, for like $250. That way, I could maybe just get an AM2+ SLI board, CPU and RAM for around that price. I'd love to go w/ a dual core that can clock up to 3GHz and just wait for a quad core Phenom II.

Pio, I'm willing to bet it was that Apevia. In a way that's good, b/c PSU isn't that expensive, and isn't as annoying as waiting for a whole new motherboard. The only bad thing is that it might have taken a few parts w/ it, but my Apevia that first died didn't take anything, so I'm glad. Go with a corsair or the like this time. Also...I call dibs on the opty if you're going to upgrade to something else.


----------



## TestECull

Just remember: The Dark Side's cookies blow....


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
@BlackOmega:
I will keep that in mind for tomorrow's ventures. I've never heard of that procedure before, I'll give it a try at least. Thanks.

Good luck man I hope it works


----------



## Blitz6804

Guys guys! Even if someone here might not care for Intel, that gives us no reason to badmouth it. If you do not like Intel: Do not get one. If someone else wants to get an Intel: That is their choice and we should support them.

Pez: While I hope AMD will someday rebecome a serious contender, I wish you luck in your shift from PGA to LGA.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Guys guys! Even if someone here might not care for Intel, that gives us no reason to badmouth it. If you do not like Intel: Do not get one. If someone else wants to get an Intel: That is their choice and we should support them.

Pez: While I hope AMD will someday rebecome a serious contender, I wish you luck in your shift from PGA to LGA.

Just for the record I was not trying to come off like I'm dissing intel. By all means if some one has the means to make the switch then It would prolly be a happy one providing they get great hardware and not defective hardware. One thing I really disslike is trying to build a system w/brand new defective hardware and I keep having problems that make it harder for me to learn the new hardware. Again I'm not saying intel or amd is known for having defective hardware but more or less elaborating on how I feel I would struggle making a switch to another beast that has a whole new set of rules for making it purr before I could make it rock. Pez I do wish you all the luck in what ever your next system to rock with is. I might go intel soon myself but prolly old stuff so that I can run a cctv home security system... I have nothing against intel except for the prices...


----------



## pez

Well I've been seriously considering switching to AM3, but it'll be about 6-7 months. I just wish AMD would pull the move like Intel is doing and support Crossfire and SLI on the same board. That way you're not stuck w/ a worse performing pair of cards than you could possibly have. My only quirk as of now; my minimum FPS. On COD4, I'm perfectly fine, I don't think I ever hit below 45 FPS (this is maxed @ 1680x1050), but in a CPU intensive game like CSS, sometimes I'll drop to 30, and I know most of the fault is Vista's, but I deal with it. I just hope the other 2 gigs of RAM will allow me to stay stable at at leasts 2.4Ghz and also raise my minimum FPS.


----------



## N2Gaming

You wanna hear something funny. I remember when web page servers were running systems less then 2000Mhz spds and they were in the 1u slim rack mount servers for high dollars... that was like in 2000. Then in 2005 we were buying better, cheaper and prolly machines that will last with technology for I'd say at least another couple of years as far as being able to game and so forth. I still remember my first intel 33Mhz rig with 4 meg ram. what a piece of nostalgia.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


It was stable enough, at 1.656Vcore, to boot and validate. I could not get it to make it more than 45 seconds into 06 without crashing, and at that voltage anything higher will kill the only 939 chip I have, so I backed it off to 2.69 and 1.58V. I hesitate to even call it an OC, it's not stable so I don't see it as one...


TestECull, don't feel to discouraged by this. Many owners of the Manchester core have the same difficulties. Most aren't even able to get passed 2.5Ghz. This core for some odd reason requires so much Vcore when you start to approach 2.6-2.7Ghz. You still did good in my opinion









Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Actually, I'll most likely go to the dark side.


Pez, good luck my friend. Right now is a good time because the prices are dropping. I myself have been checking out a Q6600 for my lab.

Good luck guys


----------



## GuardianOdin

good lord....... stop in to check up and see the thread is waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay past where I left it. See what happens when work gets in the way!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Well I've been seriously considering switching to AM3, but it'll be about 6-7 months. I just wish AMD would pull the move like Intel is doing and support Crossfire and SLI on the same board. That way you're not stuck w/ a worse performing pair of cards than you could possibly have. My only quirk as of now; my minimum FPS. On COD4, I'm perfectly fine, I don't think I ever hit below 45 FPS (this is maxed @ 1680x1050), *but in a CPU intensive game like CSS, sometimes I'll drop to 30,* and I know most of the fault is Vista's, but I deal with it. I just hope the other 2 gigs of RAM will allow me to stay stable at at leasts 2.4Ghz and also raise my minimum FPS.

Im assuming you mean Counterstrike source......And if you drop to less than 30FPS there is something seriously wrong there. My opty 165 @ stock speeds with 1 of my GSO's I hardly EVER drop below 100fps. I think when I ran the benchmark (ingame) I averaged 144fps @ 1680x1050 with everything on max 16xAA,AF bloom and all that. IMO, you should be seeing considerably higher framerates than that.


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


TestECull, don't feel to discouraged by this. Many owners of the Manchester core have the same difficulties. Most aren't even able to get passed 2.5Ghz. This core for some odd reason requires so much Vcore when you start to approach 2.6-2.7Ghz. You still did good in my opinion







Good luck guys



:\\ I'm not going to kill this chip tho. If I had another 939 dual laying around, or they were easy to get, or if they were RMA'd, I'd say "Screw this, 2.0Vcore gogogogogo"...but alas.


----------



## pioneerisloud

My motherboard and PSU are both 100% dead. I don't know about anything else in there, as that's all I tested.

Testing:
I unhooked EVERYTHING from the PSU. I then proceeded to "jump" it. All wires were out of the case. Nothing happened.

Motherboard:
I took the motherboard out of the case, and hooked it up to a known working PSU. I used an XFX 6800XT video card and I tried each stick of RAM individually. It wouldn't turn on







.

So....I have nothing







. My motherboard MAY be able to be RMA'd, but the PSU can't. I have no spare PSU's or motherboards laying around....nothing.

So you guys probably won't be hearing from me for some time. I have no money to upgrade, or buy any additional parts, so I'm stuck. I am posting this from Froggy's rig, but I can promise she won't let me use it more than this one time, because she doesn't even know I'm on it.

Sigh....R.I.P. Opty 165. You will be missed, as I have nothing to do now







.

EDIT:
As to the rig in my sig....as it turns out, the GPU in that machine is dead as well. It won't take a driver. So that machine doesn't work either. This leaves Froggy's rig, and our file server....which I can't use internet on (it's blocked thanks to Server 03's security).


----------



## Xyro TR1

Pio, ygpm.


----------



## Hueristic

PIO open the PS and post or pm me the pic. Or better yet send me the Opty and wallow in self pity!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Testing:
I unhooked EVERYTHING from the PSU. I then proceeded to "jump" it. All wires were out of the case. Nothing happened.

Pio, you couldn't jump both PSU's with a paper clip?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Motherboard:
I took the motherboard out of the case, and hooked it up to a known working PSU. I used an XFX 6800XT video card and I tried each stick of RAM individually. It wouldn't turn on







.

Is there LED lights on the board and if so do they light up when power is connected to the motherboard?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
This leaves Froggy's rig, and our file server....which I can't use internet on (it's blocked thanks to Server 03's security).









Are you referring to Win2k3 Standard? You can still use the internet on the OS. Perhaps you need to be more descriptive so I can understand.

I don't ever remember you stating this but is your machine on any type of power conditioning device (UPS)? Hardware damage from a surge/dirty power ect sounds like the culprit here. Does the board physically look ok(capacitors)?

Sorry to hear the bad news

Good luck


----------



## nategr8ns

CCBWE is probably the least successful stepping from what I've read.
probably 2.7, as much as 2.9.

Pio, I'm sure froggy would let you use her computer. Do check inside the PSU and look for anything that looks damaged.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
CCBWE is probably the least successful stepping from what I've read.
probably 2.7, as much as 2.9.

Pio, I'm sure froggy would let you use her computer. Do check inside the PSU and look for anything that looks damaged.

Thx man! Thinkr accidentally edited it out of my post but you answered my question so I won't repost.







+rep


----------



## thlnk3r

Hueristic, I apologize for that. I thought it was a "Appraisal question". Wow I really need to wake up here


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Hueristic, I apologize for that. I thought it was a "Appraisal question". Wow I really need to wake up here









No prob man thanks for the info on the bullet points, My thoughts exactly. And don't forget to hit that dentist for me too! Mine broke off the bit in my root canal! Grrr he got away though!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pio, you couldn't jump both PSU's with a paper clip?

Is there LED lights on the board and if so do they light up when power is connected to the motherboard?

Are you referring to Win2k3 Standard? You can still use the internet on the OS. Perhaps you need to be more descriptive so I can understand.

I don't ever remember you stating this but is your machine on any type of power conditioning device (UPS)? Hardware damage from a surge/dirty power ect sounds like the culprit here. Does the board physically look ok(capacitors)?

Sorry to hear the bad news

Good luck


Alright, to answer the above in order:

I jumped the Apevia PSU with the paperclip. I've completely unhooked the Thermaltake GPU PSU for the sake of ruling it out. I could care less at this point if that little sucker died....I NEED the Apevia to work. And its 100% dead...as in won't turn on period. It does NOTHING.

Yes, there are LED's that turn on on the motherboard. I have now actually made some headway with the mobo. It'll now turn on (with the 6800XT for GPU, and a blown 420w PSU). However the screen is all screwed up (not artifacting mind you, just screwed up), and it will NOT support my keyboard at all. I can still read what's on the screen, but there's HUGE colored dots all over the screen. And it is NOT the GPU, as the GPU works fine. Also, the motherboard fails POST (it goes through and attempts to, then gives me 4 quick beeps after POST). It also will not reset CMOS at all. I have pulled the battery, I have used the reset jumper, and I have also used the method told to me earlier (flipping the battery around). To no avail though







.

The server machine is currently on Windows 2003 "Enterprise" Edition I do believe. I'm sure there are ways to get around the security in place, but its probably better if I just leave it be. The OS put it there on its own, and I have no AV programs installed on it....so I'll just leave that rig alone for now. No reason for me to screw up 3 rigs in a row.

My rig is on TWO different UPS devices, that honestly aren't doing their job at all. When we get little power outages (like not even a second), my rig (and server) shut off, while Froggy's rig stays on. And she's on a stupid CHEAPO surge protector only!!!! So it could be dirty power, however I'm surprised the server didn't go with it, as its hooked to the same UPS.

And yes, the motherboard physically looks fine. I'm stumped. Only thing I can think of is that MAYBE the motherboard is okay, but the blown 420w PSU that I'm using may just not have enough power to power on my rig fully. That's what I am hoping.

So for now, I am on the lookout for the best, cheapest PSU for my rig with 8800GT's in SLI (whenever that card from Joe arrives).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


CCBWE is probably the least successful stepping from what I've read.
probably 2.7, as much as 2.9.

Pio, I'm sure froggy would let you use her computer. Do check inside the PSU and look for anything that looks damaged.


Froggy has told me that I am NOT to use her computer for anything







. She's probably hiding pron or something on there, who knows. I'm not even going to bother with the PSU...I just HOPE it took nothing with it. I mean, it is just a stupid Apevia PSU anyway. Lesson learned.


----------



## N2Gaming

Has any one used this ocz ram cooler or know of any good ones for about $20.00 delivered. Looks like the egg has them for a little over $20.00 delivered to my area...


----------



## Blitz6804

I believe Pez may have.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Has any one used this ocz ram cooler or know of any good ones for about $20.00 delivered. Looks like the egg has them for a little over $20.00 delivered to my area...


I have. Looks pretty.

Whether or not it's actually useful, I honestly can't tell (as none of today's DDR is really suited for ultra-high VDIMM anymore). On the other hand, active cooling has never hurt anything, so if you can get one (especially for cheap) go for it, I say.


----------



## TestECull

Pio: The opty lived. I'm 99% sure of it, you and I both know AMD chips are tanks. My X2 survived two PSU's dying, one with quite the light show with it. Then again, so has everything else...

I suggest a photo-autopsy of the Apevia. Find out what part of it blew. It might be a simple little fuse hard-soldered on the AC side that is there to protect things. Most PSU's, even crappy ones, have this fuse somewhere. Crappy ones are hard-soldered, quality ones tend to have it in a socket of some sort.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


Pio: The opty lived. I'm 99% sure of it, you and I both know AMD chips are tanks. My X2 survived two PSU's dying, one with quite the light show with it. Then again, so has everything else...

I suggest a photo-autopsy of the Apevia. Find out what part of it blew. It might be a simple little fuse hard-soldered on the AC side that is there to protect things. Most PSU's, even crappy ones, have this fuse somewhere. Crappy ones are hard-soldered, quality ones tend to have it in a socket of some sort.


I'm working on getting a replacement first







. This P4 rig is KILLING ME!!!

I'm currently looking at an Antec NeoPower 550w Modular PSU with 42a on the 12v rail. Any objections before I buy? Its $34.99 for me at newegg







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I believe Pez may have.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I have. Looks pretty.

Whether or not it's actually useful, I honestly can't tell (as none of today's DDR is really suited for ultra-high VDIMM anymore). On the other hand, active cooling has never hurt anything, so if you can get one (especially for cheap) go for it, I say.










Thanks txtr & blitz I was thinking of the sli dr board for the crucial ddr500 ram just to keep it from an early grave.


----------



## TestECull

pio: <3 Antec. I had one sustain a 100W overdraw for well over a year, and I think over 100 breaker pops, before it died. Troopers, they are. And even when it died, the short was on the AC side of the circuitry, so the only thing that got to the computer was the resulting sparks.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


pio: <3 Antec. I had one sustain a 100W overdraw for well over a year, and I think over 100 breaker pops, before it died. Troopers, they are. And even when it died, the short was on the AC side of the circuitry, so the only thing that got to the computer was the resulting sparks.


Antec NeoPower it is. I just have to come up with a way to pay for the full price up front ($69.99), as I only have $60 in my paypal. After the order is processed though, I get $35 off this purchase







. Time to call in a favor







.

I will update you guys tomorrow sometime as to whether or not I can pull off a new PSU or not....it depends on the person I will be asking tomorrow for help (nobody that's a regular in here, dont' worry guys). I don't think I'm asking too much really. They put up an extra $35 for me a PSU, but they get it right back onto their card / account (whatever method they use to pay). If that falls through, I can always just send him $60, so he only has to put up $10...then he can just send it all back (minus that $10).

Ugh.....I've been up for far too long again, lol.


----------



## nategr8ns

awe man... listen to this (pio in particular if you can get on to read this):

a 1992 Supra (MKIII) 3.0L inline-6, 5mt, only 72k miles! Better yet, it was owned since knew by someone's grandma (I assume this guy is telling the truth) and it costs $6k.

If I wasn't looking for something a bit more practical (not to mention it'll be my first car) I would jump on this.

its being sold on the North American Subaru Impreza Ownsers Club website. (NASIOC.com)

sorry for the off topic-ness.
(thinker if you edit this post, please copy-pasta it into a PM to me so I can PM pio







)
back on topic: Pio, that PSU looks good to me! I guess you could always just ask for $10 (plus tax I guess). Less risky than giving $60. I guess if it's someone you know (who has never driven your car before







) it's ok.

p.s. should I go for 400 reps? I don't really help people out anymore except for my subscribed threads and new case mods that I subscribe to







.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


awe man... listen to this (pio in particular if you can get on to read this):

a 1992 Supra (MKIII) 3.0L inline-6, 5mt, only 72k miles! Better yet, it was owned since knew by someone's grandma (I assume this guy is telling the truth) and it costs $6k.

If I wasn't looking for something a bit more practical (not to mention it'll be my first car) I would jump on this.

its being sold on the North American Subaru Impreza Ownsers Club website. (NASIOC.com)

sorry for the off topic-ness.


Drool.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Drool.


that was a good year for that car...


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Im assuming you mean Counterstrike source......And if you drop to less than 30FPS there is something seriously wrong there. My opty 165 @ stock speeds with 1 of my GSO's I hardly EVER drop below 100fps. I think when I ran the benchmark (ingame) I averaged 144fps @ 1680x1050 with everything on max 16xAA,AF bloom and all that. IMO, you should be seeing considerably higher framerates than that.


It's because you're running XP







.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Has any one used this ocz ram cooler or know of any good ones for about $20.00 delivered. Looks like the egg has them for a little over $20.00 delivered to my area...


I'm giving it away in the contest along w/ the RAM.


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


awe man... listen to this (pio in particular if you can get on to read this):

a 1992 Supra (MKIII) 3.0L inline-6, 5mt, only 72k miles! Better yet, it was owned since knew by someone's grandma (I assume this guy is telling the truth) and it costs $6k.

If I wasn't looking for something a bit more practical (not to mention it'll be my first car) I would jump on this.

its being sold on the North American Subaru Impreza Ownsers Club website. (NASIOC.com)

sorry for the off topic-ness.
(thinker if you edit this post, please copy-pasta it into a PM to me so I can PM pio







)
back on topic: Pio, that PSU looks good to me! I guess you could always just ask for $10 (plus tax I guess). Less risky than giving $60. I guess if it's someone you know (who has never driven your car before







) it's ok.

p.s. should I go for 400 reps? I don't really help people out anymore except for my subscribed threads and new case mods that I subscribe to







.



:O Do want.

Get a carfax on it's VIN, but it sounds to me like you found the only Supra in the United States that hasn't been riced up. You have a duty, pending a clean carfax, to buy this car and ensure that it never sees a single moo bomb, rice spoiler, snow plow or huge sub again in it's life, and that it spends it's years doing what Toyota built it to do: Go really fast around corners.

How's the clutch in it, do you know?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


I'm giving it away in the contest along w/ the RAM.


 so what is your biggest complaint about the ocz cooler that is if you have any?


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


moo bomb


BAHAHAHA Moo Bomb. Excellent terminology.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Thanks txtr & blitz I was thinking of the sli dr board for the crucial ddr500 ram just to keep it from an early grave.









Sadly, this may not matter at all. The Crucial Ballistix DDR500 (2*1GB) had a bad run of defective batches which died too soon and unexpectedly, even without any OCing or overvolting being done to the RAM. Even with active cooling, RAM from this bad batch succumbed to an early silicon grave.









(That's one reason I'm wary about putting my one set of Ballistix into a 24/7 system right now. I'm too paranoid...)


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
:O Do want.

Get a carfax on it's VIN, but it sounds to me like you found the only Supra in the United States that hasn't been ricefagged up. You have a duty, pending a clean carfax, to buy this car and ensure that it never sees a single moo bomb, rice spoiler, snow plow or huge sub again in it's life, and that it spends it's years doing what Toyota built it to do: Go really fast around corners.

How's the clutch in it, do you know?

no clue, its posted online (like I said, NASIOC). The poster is in Fairfax, VA. I assume his grandma is also in VA.

here's the post:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *NinjaPowa* 
My grandma is selling her 1992 Toyota Supra and I figured someone here might be interested, even though it's not an Impreza.

The info:

1992
5-speed manual trans.
NA I-6 3.0L engine
72,xxx miles
Red with black leather interior
Excellent condition
Garage kept
Driven by my grandma since new

$6,000

Send me PM or post up

pix didn't quote, here they are:


----------



## TestECull

That car is the luckiest car in the world. It would be a crime against humanity to let that *virgin* supra be riced.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
so what is your biggest complaint about the ocz cooler that is if you have any?

Well I had gotten it in a trade, and found that the clearance b/w my CPU cooler and the RAMs heatsinks was already very close, so it would've been a hassle to try and make it fit. I would keep it, but I've got my eye on that dark knight 1283 which is def. going to be a problem for that. But I can't comment on it really at all b/c I've never gotten the chance to use it. I remember from what I had read about it in reviews though was that it's bright. And I don't even have a windowed case anymore, so even my cold cathode is pretty much unnecessary atm.

On a different note, this weekend, I may reseat my HSF. I've read different things about the application of thermal paste, so I'm going to use the "manually spreading it" trick. Before I just applied the small pea size amount and set the HSF on top and just kinda wiggled it around to let it kinda settle, but this time I'm going to spread a nice, but thin layer across the CPU to see if that helps with temps a bit. If not I maybe have to invest in one more tri cool for front intake.

I know I'm making a wall of text, but I have just one more question. I will be getting the other 2 gigs of that RAM soon, and I'm really hoping that it might help me out on some games performances. One thing I've noticed, and as Omega said, the minimum FPS I was getting XP (in CS:S) w/ a 8600GT was maybe like 40-50, but on vista, I'd hit low 20's high teens, and I determined that it wasn't a graphics card problem, but rather a problem w/ just so many resources taken up from either the CPU or RAM, and I'm thinking it's the RAM, b/c Vista is still a RAM hog. So my question is do you guys think that'll help out a lot? And yes, it was the same regardless of 32 or 64 bit OS.


----------



## Blitz6804

Biggest things:

Open the compatibility tab. Select "Disable visual themes" and "Disable desktop composition" to improve FPS some. For another, do as Crysis suggests you do; "Open task manager. Kill all non-essential processes. Then boot Crysis."

Make sure you defrag regularly. Make sure that you virus-scan regularly. Make sure you disk check/clean regularly. Your hard drive will always be the slowest component in your PC; never forget that. (Wait, I lie. If you are like me, the 3.5" is far slower.)


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Well 
I may reseat my HSF. I've read different things about the application of thermal paste, so I'm going to use the "manually spreading it" trick. Before I just applied the small pea size amount and set the HSF on top and just kinda wiggled it around to let it kinda settle, but this time I'm going to spread a nice, but thin layer across the CPU to see if that helps with temps a bit. If not I maybe have to invest in one more tri cool for front intake.


Thank you pez, I don't know what kind of TIM you plan on using but I'm using the stuff that comes with the zalman and it works pretty good. One thing I like about it is that it comes in a bottle with a brush built into the screw off cap. The brush helps apply in a thin even coat. So my point is try to use a small brush like from a finger nail polish brush or something of the sort. If you don't have or can not get your hands on a brush another trick is to use a flat edge like on a credit card to spread the TIM thin yet even. Hope this helps. Good luck...


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


That car is the luckiest car in the world. It would be a crime against humanity to let that *virgin* supra be riced.


the only thing that would make that car pop a little more for me would be better wheels and either a black or blue paint job. Factory paint that is I would never paint a car like that unless it had to be painted and that car does not apear to need pain. Now the wheels on the other hand. oohhh eye soar.









Edit sorry for the double post guy's.


----------



## Blitz6804

Not touching the car...

Regards TIM: ArticSilver5 says that you should use the pea and heatsink-spreading method. In my experience, it has always worked. I have tried using the thin smear coat once, and it was not very good: too much work for little-or-no difference. If you are worried about unideal contact between your CPU and HS, perhaps instead looking to lapping one or both. Have you tested the flatness of both? The easiest way to do this is to take TIM or a TIM-like substance (I have heard ketchup and toothpaste both being used for this), making a pea-sized ball like you would for application on a sheet of glass, and then applying the surface to be tested with pressure. Then you can see the smear pattern from through the glass. Sparing glass, use a surface you know to be flat and compare the two surfaces' (testing and control) spread patterns. If they are asymetrical, a lap should be in your future as pressure would not be even. You might get by with shimming the heatsink retention module though. If the stuff does not spread, you are concave: the middle is not making contact, the worst possible scenario for a CPU. LAP IT! If the stuff spreads to the point where there is almost none left in the middle, you are convex: the outside is not making contact. In either case, CPU or HS, this is a far less serious matter than concavity. A lap job could not hurt, but you will have little gains if any. The biggest disadvantage to lapping in this scenario is that your mount will be looser; symmetrical shimming/filing of the retention might be in your future if this is your case.

In any event, check your retention pressure. I know with the SI-128, if you use the clip-down method, the heatsink is not really secure on the CPU. Lapping the surface made this even worse. Given the option, use a bolt-down method every time. Be sure to get the bolting as tight as possible. Ideally, you would be to the point where you cannot tighten the bolt anymore due to pressure (or nerves) and yet there is still some thread left. (In my opinion.) If both surfaces are flat and you still have a large delta, be sure that differential pressures might be to blame.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


My rig is on TWO different UPS devices, that honestly aren't doing their job at all. When we get little power outages (like not even a second), my rig (and server) shut off, while Froggy's rig stays on. And she's on a stupid CHEAPO surge protector only!!!! So it could be dirty power, however I'm surprised the server didn't go with it, as its hooked to the same UPS.


Pio, what is the brand/model of the UPS devices? How many machines do you have on each UPS? If your ladies machine stayed on during the rolling blackouts and yours turned off then it sounds like the batteries need to be replaced. It's recommended that you replace the batteries every 1-3 years. If they are Ultra UPS's then I can understand why your machines turned off.

Sounds like you already purchased a PSU but I always go to jonnyguru.com for researching purposes before I buy anything PSU related. The power supply should be your biggest investment, don't go cheap.

Lastly, throw away the Apevia and don't waste your time.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


a 1992 Supra (MKIII) 3.0L inline-6, 5mt, only 72k miles! Better yet, it was owned since knew by someone's grandma (I assume this guy is telling the truth) and it costs $6k.


Nate, I don't care if you go OT just keep it to a minimal.

That price is about right for a MK3 n/a. The models that came with a 7m-gte were more expensive. One of my buddies purchased a 92 mk3 n/a and dropped 7k into it. After the mods it put down a little over 450hp...I wanna say 14lbs of boostage? It's funny you mentioned this, I was just talking with a 96 mk4 owner the other day and the mk4's are still holding their value. They are still going for 15k used.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


Get a carfax on it's VIN, but it sounds to me like you found the only Supra in the United States that hasn't been riced up. You have a duty, pending a clean carfax, to buy this car and ensure that it never sees a single moo bomb, rice spoiler, snow plow or huge sub again in it's life, and that it spends it's years doing what Toyota built it to do: Go really fast around corners.


Testecull, I don't think I've ever seen a Supra riced out. In regards to Carfax...well I don't believe that is always 100% accurate. I have first hand experience of that









Back OT: Has anyone here with a DFI SLI-DR tried testing with ECC memory? The anandtech review of my board says DFI supports ECC memory but I couldn't find any other documentation proving it.

Good luck guys


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


no clue, its posted online (like I said, NASIOC). The poster is in Fairfax, VA. I assume his grandma is also in VA.

here's the post:

pix didn't quote, here they are:











The thing needs suspension and an alignment. Look at how choppy the inside edge of the front tire is. It also looks like the RF spring is broken or sagged. Its leaning pretty hard on the RF. I know the wheel is turned, but it still should not make it lean that much. Especially if this car was designed to go around corners. That would be the exact opposite of what youd want it to do.


----------



## jimwest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


The thing needs suspension and an alignment. Look at how choppy the inside edge of the front tire is. It also looks like the RF spring is broken or sagged. Its leaning pretty hard on the RF. I know the wheel is turned, but it still should not make it lean that much. Especially if this car was designed to go around corners. That would be the exact opposite of what youd want it to do.


Supras aren't that great for corners anyways. I've always been a fan of lighter, lower power cars. I've owned a Honda CRX and then a AE86 Corolla. Saving up for a Mazda Miata right now; most fun car to drive...ever.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thank you pez, I don't know what kind of TIM you plan on using but I'm using the stuff that comes with the zalman and it works pretty good. One thing I like about it is that it comes in a bottle with a brush built into the screw off cap. The brush helps apply in a thin even coat. So my point is try to use a small brush like from a finger nail polish brush or something of the sort. If you don't have or can not get your hands on a brush another trick is to use a flat edge like on a credit card to spread the TIM thin yet even. Hope this helps. Good luck...


Yeah, I planned on getting an old gift card and cutting it to a nice size so I can do this.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Biggest things:

Open the compatibility tab. Select "Disable visual themes" and "Disable desktop composition" to improve FPS some. For another, do as Crysis suggests you do; "Open task manager. Kill all non-essential processes. Then boot Crysis."

Make sure you defrag regularly. Make sure that you virus-scan regularly. Make sure you disk check/clean regularly. Your hard drive will always be the slowest component in your PC; never forget that. (Wait, I lie. If you are like me, the 3.5" is far slower.)


Going to try this now and see if it works. What exactly is desktop composition?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Not touching the car...

Regards TIM: ArticSilver5 says that you should use the pea and heatsink-spreading method. In my experience, it has always worked. I have tried using the thin smear coat once, and it was not very good: too much work for little-or-no difference. If you are worried about unideal contact between your CPU and HS, perhaps instead looking to lapping one or both. Have you tested the flatness of both? The easiest way to do this is to take TIM or a TIM-like substance (I have heard ketchup and toothpaste both being used for this), making a pea-sized ball like you would for application on a sheet of glass, and then applying the surface to be tested with pressure. Then you can see the smear pattern from through the glass. Sparing glass, use a surface you know to be flat and compare the two surfaces' (testing and control) spread patterns. If they are asymetrical, a lap should be in your future as pressure would not be even. You might get by with shimming the heatsink retention module though. If the stuff does not spread, you are concave: the middle is not making contact, the worst possible scenario for a CPU. LAP IT! If the stuff spreads to the point where there is almost none left in the middle, you are convex: the outside is not making contact. In either case, CPU or HS, this is a far less serious matter than concavity. A lap job could not hurt, but you will have little gains if any. The biggest disadvantage to lapping in this scenario is that your mount will be looser; symmetrical shimming/filing of the retention might be in your future if this is your case.

In any event, check your retention pressure. I know with the SI-128, if you use the clip-down method, the heatsink is not really secure on the CPU. Lapping the surface made this even worse. Given the option, use a bolt-down method every time. Be sure to get the bolting as tight as possible. Ideally, you would be to the point where you cannot tighten the bolt anymore due to pressure (or nerves) and yet there is still some thread left. (In my opinion.) If both surfaces are flat and you still have a large delta, be sure that differential pressures might be to blame.


Yeah, I'm using AS5.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
*Pio, what is the brand/model of the UPS devices? How many machines do you have on each UPS? If your ladies machine stayed on during the rolling blackouts and yours turned off then it sounds like the batteries need to be replaced. It's recommended that you replace the batteries every 1-3 years. If they are Ultra UPS's then I can understand why your machines turned off.

Sounds like you already purchased a PSU but I always go to jonnyguru.com for researching purposes before I buy anything PSU related. The power supply should be your biggest investment, don't go cheap.

Lastly, throw away the Apevia and don't waste your time.*
.......

The brand / model of the UPS devices are both APC, and they are both at LEAST 8 years old. Batteries have NEVER been replaced, however they were perfectly fine before we moved here. I think having them sit on the cement floor in my parent's garage may have completely killed the batteries (like it does car batteries). So I'm just going to use a good surge protector from now on instead. I had 2 machines, with 2 UPS devices. And I also had 3 routers and a modem, a printer, and my speakers and accessories plugged into them as well.

I haven't purchased a PSU yet. However I am looking at this PSU. Its an Antec NeoPower 550w Modular PSU with 42a on the 12v rail. I can manage to get this PSU for a whopping $34.99 with free shipping because I get $10 off that item (it was $59.99 yesterday, and newegg honored it for me), and I also get $25 off my next order. I'm SERIOUSLY considering that PSU, unless I'm told otherwise.

As far as the Apevia....I have plans for it







. It has HUGE capacitors in it. I wouldn't expect those 2 huge capacitors died, and I hope they didn't. I have a use for them. Did you know that capacitors, is all you need to make "bass blockers" for speakers? They need to be a specific rating, and handle enough power. I will look into that in a while. But if I recall correctly, the capacitors that are in PSU's can work perfect as a bass blocker (High Pass Crossover). And I plan to pull those capacitors out and use them for that function in the future (car or home, haven't decided yet).

But after that, the Apevia is DEFINITELY being thrown away







. I'll salvage what parts out of it that I can (the fans and fan controller)....then junk it.


----------



## Cdpkook132

So I built this computer almost 5 years ago when I was graduating highschool and it has been great but I just built a new one so this one went on the shelf in peices as it wasnt working. I decided to get it out and see if I could get it running. Painted and modded the case and then put it back together.

Mobo: Asus a8n-sli Board
CPU: AMD Athlon 3500+ Clawhammer Chipset which apparently I have been reading is a rarer chip. Nothing special just rare.
Stock Clock:2.2Ghz
Overclock:2.77Ghz
Sorry About the Screenshot I run Dual Screens








Ram: 2GB DDR 400Mhz
Hard Drive:2x125 Seagate Sata in Raid 0
GPU: XFX Nvidia 6600GT
Was sli originally but I had a card fail and never replaced it.
Sound Card: Creative Audigy 2zs
Case: ThermalTake Xvaser Torn apart and stripped.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Cdpkook132* 
So I built this computer almost 5 years ago when I was graduating highschool and it has been great but I just built a new one so this one went on the shelf in peices as it wasnt working. I decided to get it out and see if I could get it running. Painted and modded the case and then put it back together.

Mobo: Asus a8n-sli Board
CPU: AMD Athlon 3500+ Clawhammer Chipset which apparently I have been reading is a rarer chip. Nothing special just rare.
Stock Clock:2.2Ghz
Overclock:2.77Ghz
Sorry About the Screenshot I run Dual Screens

Ram: 2GB DDR 400Mhz
Hard Drive:2x125 Seagate Sata in Raid 0
GPU: XFX Nvidia 6600GT
*Was sli originally but I had a card fail and never replaced it.*
Sound Card: Creative Audigy 2zs
Case: ThermalTake Xvaser Torn apart and stripped.

Sweet! However, you do realize that XFX has a double lifetime warranty, right? You could just RMA your dead card, and get a replacement...you might even get lucky and get a MUCH better card back







.


----------



## Hueristic

SWEET *Cdpkook132*! How did those ram coolers work out for you?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
The brand / model of the UPS devices are both APC, and they are both at LEAST 8 years old. Batteries have NEVER been replaced, however they were perfectly fine before we moved here. I think having them sit on the cement floor in my parent's garage may have completely killed the batteries (like it does car batteries). So I'm just going to use a good surge protector from now on instead. I had 2 machines, with 2 UPS devices. And I also had 3 routers and a modem, a printer, and my speakers and accessories plugged into them as well.

I haven't purchased a PSU yet. However I am looking at this PSU. Its an Antec NeoPower 550w Modular PSU with 42a on the 12v rail.

Pio, you've had these APC units for 8 years and never replaced the batteries? That is definitely not going to help during an outage







. APC has this program where you can exchange older units for newer ones and then pay the difference. You may want to look into that.

Here is a great review on the Antec NeoPower 550W. The good stuff starts on page 3. I'd suggest reading all of it: http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/361/1.

Cdpkook132, great looking setup! Cable management is very clean









Do you have a cpu-z validation link of your Clawhammer? Include that in a post and I can add you to the club roster.

Good luck guys


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
*Pio, you've had these APC units for 8 years and never replaced the batteries? That is definitely not going to help during an outage







. APC has this program where you can exchange older units for newer ones and then pay the difference. You may want to look into that.

Here is a great review on the Antec NeoPower 550W. The good stuff starts on page 3. I'd suggest reading all of it: http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/361/1.*

Cdpkook132, great looking setup! Cable management is very clean









Do you have a cpu-z validation link of your Clawhammer? Include that in a post and I can add you to the club roster.

Good luck guys

Yeah, that's kinda why I'm going to replace them with a regular good ol' surge protector for now. I can't afford to replace them as UPS devices are quite expensive.

I read over that review. It claims that the NeoPower 550w can actually deliver up to 650w of power, and its between 83-88% efficient







. That makes me VERY happy, and I am now confident in that PSU. It should handle my future SLI with ease. Now I just have to figure out a way to buy it.....as I have the money in my paypal, but not on a credit card for newegg







.

I will of course report back as soon as I figure out what I'm doing







.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
The brand / model of the UPS devices are both APC, and they are both at LEAST 8 years old. Batteries have NEVER been replaced, however they were perfectly fine before we moved here. I think having them sit on the cement floor in my parent's garage may have completely killed the batteries (like it does car batteries). So I'm just going to use a good surge protector from now on instead. *I had 2 machines, with 2 UPS devices. And I also had 3 routers and a modem, a printer, and my speakers and accessories plugged into them as well.*

I haven't purchased a PSU yet. However I am looking at this PSU. Its an Antec NeoPower 550w Modular PSU with 42a on the 12v rail. I can manage to get this PSU for a whopping $34.99 with free shipping because I get $10 off that item (it was $59.99 yesterday, and newegg honored it for me), and I also get $25 off my next order. I'm SERIOUSLY considering that PSU, unless I'm told otherwise.

As far as the Apevia....I have plans for it







. It has HUGE capacitors in it. I wouldn't expect those 2 huge capacitors died, and I hope they didn't. I have a use for them. Did you know that capacitors, is all you need to make "bass blockers" for speakers? They need to be a specific rating, and handle enough power. I will look into that in a while. But if I recall correctly, the capacitors that are in PSU's can work perfect as a bass blocker (High Pass Crossover). And I plan to pull those capacitors out and use them for that function in the future (car or home, haven't decided yet).

But after that, the Apevia is DEFINITELY being thrown away







. I'll salvage what parts out of it that I can (the fans and fan controller)....then junk it.


What was teh power rating on the UPS? I cant remember exactly but when I was setting some of them up at my old job I read the manual (







) theres a ratio you need, I believe the UPS needs to be 1.5x the amount of power that your machine draws. So for my needs Id actually need something along the lines of 1125w for 1 rig.
And that is WAY too many items to be plugged into it anyway. Unless 1 set of outlets was just surge protected and the other was the actual UPS portion as Ive seen on some.
I'd go to the UPS manufacturers website and see what they about power requirements.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
What was teh power rating on the UPS? I cant remember exactly but when I was setting some of them up at my old job I read the manual (







) theres a ratio you need, I believe the UPS needs to be 1.5x the amount of power that your machine draws. So for my needs Id actually need something along the lines of 1125w for 1 rig.
And that is WAY too many items to be plugged into it anyway. Unless 1 set of outlets was just surge protected and the other was the actual UPS portion as Ive seen on some.
I'd go to the UPS manufacturers website and see what they about power requirements.

I don't know for sure about the power ratings. But yes, one side (3 plugs) is for battery backup, and the other side (3 plugs) is for surge protection only.

Also, I am on two different UPS devices (both roughly same age). And well, I just don't care for them anymore as they don't function at all. I think the cement floor in the garage is what killed them (like it does to car batteries). I never thought about it before.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Yeah, that's kinda why I'm going to replace them with a regular good ol' surge protector for now. I can't afford to replace them as UPS devices are quite expensive.

I replaced my 8 - $50 batteries with 4 car batteries. That's what I would do If I were you. IIRC APC uses 14v get a good motorcycle battery and you should be good.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
What was teh power rating on the UPS? I cant remember exactly but when I was setting some of them up at my old job I read the manual (







) theres a ratio you need, I believe the UPS needs to be 1.5x the amount of power that your machine draws. So for my needs Id actually need something along the lines of 1125w for 1 rig.
And that is WAY too many items to be plugged into it anyway. Unless 1 set of outlets was just surge protected and the other was the actual UPS portion as Ive seen on some.
I'd go to the UPS manufacturers website and see what they about power requirements.

Omega, that is an awful lot of power. I did some testing at work with a Ultra 1000VA UPS. Price tag was roughly in the $100 range. With (2) computers and (2) 17" I-Inc LCD's connected to the battery backup port, the UPS stayed on for 36 minutes and 31 secs (21% load). With the computers being at full load, the UPS stayed on for about 16 minutes and this was between 36 - 40% load on the UPS device. Granted the machine wasn't set up like ours (P4 1.8Ghz, 256MB, 40GB) but still wasn't to bad. It makes sense to have one computer plugged into a lower VA UPS and not several. Some users wonder why their four computers, 3 LCD's, Stereo, pencil sharpener, two lights, fish tank pump ect didn't stay on during an outage....geee I wonder why.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Also, I am on two different UPS devices (both roughly same age). And well, I just don't care for them anymore as they don't function at all. I think the cement floor in the garage is what killed them (like it does to car batteries). I never thought about it before.

Pio, perhaps moisture might of gotten to them and caused some damaged. The age of the devices doesn't help as well.

Good luck


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Some users wonder why their four computers, 3 LCD's, Stereo, pencil sharpener, two lights, fish tank pump ect didn't stay on during an outage....geee I wonder why.

LOL, Yeah I don't even plug the monitors into them.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Pio, did you happen to say how old the UPS units are? If they're beyond 5 years, I would recommend replacing the whole unit, not just the batteries.

I have a 1500VA APC that runs my server for over two hours, or both my server, main desktop, 2x 22" LCD's, a 17" LCD, and my halogen lamp for about 20 minutes. I love it.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Omega, that is an awful lot of power. I did some testing at work with a Ultra 1000VA UPS. Price tag was roughly in the $100 range. With (2) computers and (2) 17" I-Inc LCD's connected to the battery backup port, the UPS stayed on for 36 minutes and 31 secs (21% load). With the computers being at full load, the UPS stayed on for about 16 minutes and this was between 36 - 40% load on the UPS device. Granted the machine wasn't set up like ours (P4 1.8Ghz, 256MB, 40GB) but still wasn't to bad. It makes sense to have one computer plugged into a lower VA UPS and not several. Some users wonder why their four computers, 3 LCD's, Stereo, pencil sharpener, two lights, fish tank pump ect didn't stay on during an outage....geee I wonder why.

Pio, perhaps moisture might of gotten to them and caused some damaged. The age of the devices doesn't help as well.

Good luck

Yeah some of the ones I was looking at were considerably more than that. I figure if I have both of my rigs (soon to be 3), a monitor, my wife crapintosh all plugged in to it then I wouild even need considerably more than that. On the safe side in order to get any sort of decent time after an outage 2550w







probably enough for a server or 2







.
Like I said I cant recall the formula off the top of my head. I bet it also varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. The ones they had me install at work were such POS's that they would keep a 1.8 P4 on for maybe 5 minutes. And those I believe were 550w and the PSU's on those P4s were maybe 300 at the most. I tried telling them that they werent powerful enough and that theyre jsut wasting their money. They didnt believe until the first outage, when the UPS's didnt even keep the computers on for a minute. They had plugged in the dealerships server + one of my computers in the parts dept.
The actual IT guy did that. He also thought that shutting down computers at night was a bad idea because it would shorten the life span of the computer.







Whatever. I was just trying to save the dealership money by powering off all the unneccessary computers at night. Which amounted to something along the lines of 40 computers. That would save a pretty penny every month. Oh well, their loss.


----------



## Xyro TR1

I don't know where you got the idea that you need a UPS that is rated for double the wattage that your system's PSU is rated for. Example: here at work, I've got a 450W (peak) PSU, and my UPS up here is rated for 475W.

At home, I've got a VX450W and a VX550W (server and sigrig, respectively) plugged into one of these, as well as a ton of other stuff, and I still get decent run time with everything on. The realtime power draw on those is about 450W total, so going off of your PSU's max rating isn't saying much. My Opty 180 rig pulled even less, even with both 4850's. So, I think you're overestimating how big of a UPS that you need.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*


Pio, did you happen to say how old the UPS units are? If they're beyond 5 years, I would recommend replacing the whole unit, not just the batteries.

I have a 1500VA APC that runs my server for over two hours, or both my server, main desktop, 2x 22" LCD's, a 17" LCD, and my halogen lamp for about 20 minutes. I love it.


My current UPS devices are about 8 years old, and they were used when I got them. Like I've said, I'm just going to use a good surge protector now (pulled from my living room entertainment center). I can't afford to go out and buy some new UPS's, so a good surge protector is a LOT better than nothing.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


My current UPS devices are about 8 years old, and they were used when I got them. Like I've said, I'm just going to use a good surge protector now (pulled from my living room entertainment center). I can't afford to go out and buy some new UPS's, so a good surge protector is a LOT better than nothing.


Truth. I was meaning for in the future, if/when you were debating on replacing just batteries or the entire unit.

My HTPC will be on just a surge protector. It wasn't until a few months ago that I even had a battery backup.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*


I don't know where you got the idea that you need a UPS that is rated for double the wattage that your system's PSU is rated for. Example: here at work, I've got a 450W (peak) PSU, and my UPS up here is rated for 475W.

At home, I've got a VX450W and a VX550W (server and sigrig, respectively) plugged into one of these, as well as a ton of other stuff, and I still get decent run time with everything on. The realtime power draw on those is about 450W total, so going off of your PSU's max rating isn't saying much. My Opty 180 rig pulled even less, even with both 4850's. So, I think you're overestimating how big of a UPS that you need.


 Im just going from memory, about the manual I read (months ago) for this particular UPS, of which I honestly dont even remember the brand. There was a formula for how big of a UPS you need. And I wasnt suggesting 2x the rated power ouput but merely 1.5x. So considering my PSU is 750, my other rig has a 500, and I was guesstimating my wife crapintosh @ 450 (or something along those lines). I actually didnt even factor in my monitor. 
So that way you'd have more than 5 minutes to shut everything down. A little overkill in this regards doesnt hurt anything. Itll just keep you running for longer.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Im just going from memory, about the manual I read (months ago) for this particular UPS, of which I honestly dont even remember the brand. There was a formula for how big of a UPS you need. And I wasnt suggesting 2x the rated power ouput but merely 1.5x. So considering my PSU is 750, my other rig has a 500, and I was guesstimating my wife crapintosh @ 450 (or something along those lines). I actually didnt even factor in my monitor. 
So that way you'd have more than 5 minutes to shut everything down. A little overkill in this regards doesnt hurt anything. Itll just keep you running for longer.










I'm in support of overkill.







Why else would I have a 450W PSU in a server that barely draws 80W on it's busiest days?


----------



## pioneerisloud

I still have no idea if my main rig survived for sure....

BUT, PR1M3R from OCN (local guy for me) is being kind enough to invite me over tomorrow afternoon for some testing. He offered to let me use his BFG 550w Modular PSU to test my components out, to see what all (if anything) is dead. He's also letting me borrow "some cheap" AGP graphics card, so I can test out my new server stuff, to see if its my card or the AGP slot that's dead.

So I will know by tomorrow night what all survived my PSU dying on me.


----------



## Blitz6804

The UPS in my sig has not yet steered me wrong. With its age, it is on its second set of batteries. A third set may not be too far away. I am also looking into buying the supplemental battery pack which supposedly triples battery life. At full tilt (desktop doing GPU folding, laptop doing SMP folding, PS3 folding) I get about 5 minutes battery life. Under usual usage (desktop is the only thing on, using Firefox, 7 IM clients, and WMP) I get about 21 minutes. Under that load setting (1.25 GHz processor) I draw about 321 W including speakers and monitor.


----------



## Blitz6804

Oh, I missed.

Cdpkook132: I would be glad to add you to the roster as soon as we can get a clearer screenshot. I can see that it is a 3500+, but other than that, the screen is too small. I am happy to have a case brother!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I figure if I have both of my rigs (soon to be 3), a monitor, my wife crapintosh all plugged in to it then I wouild even need considerably more than that. On the safe side in order to get any sort of decent time after an outage *2550w*







probably enough for a server or 2







.

Omega, wait I'm a bit confused by your post. Is that how much wattage you plan on drawing? That's over 200 amps. Maybe I'm just confused by your post


----------



## Blitz6804

It might be thlnk3r. My APC Back-UPS XS 1500 VA provides 865 W. Recall of course that those 865 W are alternating current, not direct current. If the current is not in phase with the voltage, you need to have a correction figure, or a "power factor." That is, RMS Voltage x RMS Amperage x Power Factor = Power. The units are V x A x unitless = W. (RMS = Root Mean Squared. Essentially, the average effective voltage/amperage.)

In any event, I lost where I was going with this. Sorry.

Essentially, I just wanted to say that UPSes are rated in Watts and VA. The exact reasoning is lost on me.

EDIT: Ah yes, it came back to me. Wattage is power in a given time. In my case, the battery is good for 220 s according to APC. 865 W x 220 s = 190,300 J. If your computer is drawing less, you will last longer. I often draw around 321 W. 190,300 J / 321 W = 593 s ~ 10 min. So in the worst possible usage scenario, if my rig is drawing 321 W, I would last about ten minutes. However, the battery performs better the lighter the load. This is because an increase in current will increase the resistance. (This is why it lasts supposedly 12.4 minutes at 50% load rather than the expected 7.3.) The higher the wattage, the longer you will last given this fact. If you get a much higher wattage model than you need (such as that 2550 W model) and then load it lightly, you will have a long run time.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
It might be thlnk3r. My APC Back-UPS XS 1500 VA provides 865 W. Recall of course that those 865 W are alternating current, not direct current. If the current is not in phase with the voltage, you need to have a correction figure, or a "power factor." That is, RMS Voltage x RMS Amperage x Power Factor = Power. The units are V x A x unitless = W. (RMS = Root Mean Squared. Essentially, the average effective voltage/amperage.)

In any event, I lost where I was going with this. Sorry.

Essentially, I just wanted to say that UPSes are rated in Watts and VA. The exact reasoning is lost on me.

I'm wondering, you seem to have a lot of knowledge along with some other needless to mention members because you guys already know who you are, any way back to my point. Are you ever going to use this knowledge to get your money on or is it just stuff that will eventually collect dust up there some day...

I feel inadequate or like a dummy when I even try to understand half of the things you all talk about... Just my way of giving you a compliment or som-tin like that...


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, my brain contains WAY too much useless information. Considering I am going into law, I have absolutely no need for any of most of what I spew onto here. (Well, except for my fuzzy logic about maximum CPU temperatures. That is useful.)

For a good time, read my blog posts on how to compute A64 RAM speeds and the effects of cool 'n' quiet.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
It might be thlnk3r. My APC Back-UPS XS 1500 VA provides 865 W.

Blitz, I messed up on my last post. 2550 watts is actually a little over 21 amps (2550/120) and not 220 amps. My bad, I did my math wrong









In any case I highly doubt (well I am certain) no one here is drawing an excess of 200 amps for their computer equipment. That's the equivalent of about 50 Dell PE2950 servers. You guys would need multiple circuits for that.

Your power draw is pretty low for all that equipment. What does your machine draw at idle and load?

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Idle, around 311 W. Full-tilt, id est, both GPUs and both CPU cores reading nearly 100%, sets be back to around... I do not know. I will check when I get back to Amherst. (My PC is down with me on LI, my UPS stayed home.) I recall seeing in excess of 700 W when I was GPU folding on the desktop, SMP folding on the laptop, and PS3 folding on the PlayStation3 however. Maybe we can guess around 550 W for the desktop alone under full-load conditions? I promise I will test this for you when I get back.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Idle, around 311 W. Full-tilt, id est, both GPUs and both CPU cores reading nearly 100%, sets be back to around... I do not know. I will check when I get back to Amherst. (My PC is down with me on LI, my UPS stayed home.) I recall seeing in excess of 700 W when I was GPU folding on the desktop, SMP folding on the laptop, and PS3 folding on the PlayStation3 however. Maybe we can guess around 550 W for the desktop alone under full-load conditions? I promise I will test this for you when I get back.

Blitz, wow 311W for idle. I guess it's the two video cards. Idle I am about 130W and full load (Orthos, not anything on the video card) I am around 245-250W. This tool is excellent for this type of testing: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16882715001.

Look forward to your full load numbers. Gonna be high if you're folding on the GPU's

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

On the GPU, singular. At this time, there is no such thing as SMP GPU folding, so only one card does anything. I lack a null monitor cable to disable cross-fire and load up a client on each. To do a full load, I can fire up a program that uses both (Furmark post-hacking) or S&M. Recall, that wattage is not just my PC, but also the monitor, speakers, printer (on standby), the modem, the router, the switch, et cetera, et cetera, et cetera.


----------



## N2Gaming

blitz, your last post made me think of something. lets say I have a tri sli system or 3 way crossfire system. if I use two identical cards sli'd or CF'd and a third card not identical then I would have to have two video drivers loaded on such pretend'd system and would it work for a sli or CF system while being able to fold???


----------



## Blitz6804

If you have three cards, two are in crossfire/SLI and the third is not, the computer sees that as two cards. If you have all three unlinked, the computer sees them as three cards.

In XP, you can do a multi-client sans incident. In Vista, every card is required to have at least one monitor plugged in with the desktop extended onto it. If you lack monitors, you can use a KVM switch or a Dummy VGA Connector. (I am too lazy to build the latter, and since I cannot find it online, I have not done it yet.)

Almost all ATI cards are covered by Catalyst.

Almost all nVidia cards are covered by GeForce.

If you are running GeForce 181.22 with a pair of 9800 GTs and an 8800 GS, you can run all three cards for [email protected] (Supposedly.)


----------



## N2Gaming

I was just speaking in theory any way it's not like I'm gonna go out and get a try sli/CF mobo any time soon. I was just trying to expand my knowledge so that I too can have dusty files some day...


----------



## Blitz6804

I have a tri-Crossfire motherboard. I can tell you, given my aggravation with a dual-card configuration, I am not in any rush to buy a third card. Besides, not only would it need to be a single-slot cooler (since I have only one expansion slot left and not two) but the third card runs at 4x bandwidth rather than 16x. For some weird reason, DFI decided to do 16x/16x/4x rather than the more-customary 16x/8x/8x.


----------



## Pest

Hey guys just saw this awesome deal on Mushkin DDR500 at newegg.

I paid $180ish for mine


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pest* 
Hey guys just saw this awesome deal on Mushkin DDR500 at newegg.

I paid $180ish for mine









Good job on finding that. I bet they sell out pretty quick...


----------



## Pest

Yeah, it's an incredible deal. If I wasn't broke I'd get two more sticks.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pest* 
Yeah, it's an incredible deal. If I wasn't broke I'd get two more sticks.

Heck I'd buy 4 sticks if mushkin would honor $80.00 worth of rebate...


----------



## JEmmaB

Bone stock.


















http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=491733


----------



## JEmmaB

O'C testing...


















http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=491786


----------



## boonie2

Thats great but you have 1 too many pins for this group lol


----------



## JEmmaB

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
Thats great but you have 1 too many pins for this group lol

LOL!









I know, I just got a little excited with the PII 940 and thought I should share it with my friends from the 939 club.









And I do belong to this group.










http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=333903

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=280855

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=249290

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=336898


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Heck I'd buy 4 sticks if mushkin would honor $80.00 worth of rebate...

They usually dont, because most of the time its not Mushkin that actually runs that deal, its some outside company.

Most rules are 1 rebate per item, per household, per family. But theres easy ways around that.







I did that w/ my video cards. I had my father in law order one for me, different last names, different addresses.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
The actual IT guy did that. He also thought that shutting down computers at night was a bad idea because it would shorten the life span of the computer.







Whatever.

You are correct but in the past he would have been correct. In the old days 90% of hard drives wear happened upon spinning up and down. the heads float on an airstream.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
So I will know by tomorrow night what all survived my PSU dying on me.

I've seen hundreds of power supply failures and never lost a component. I even have a motherboard that got a trace fried and repaired it. 1/2 an inch of copper and a steady hand is all it took. Someday I'll dig it up and post a pic for you guys.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
You are correct but in the past he would have been correct. In the old days 90% of hard drives wear happened upon spinning up and down. the heads float on an airstream.

When teh 80's?







Ive been using computers for a long time, and from my personal experience, Ive found that leaving them on all the time is actually worse than shutting them down when not in use. Even with my playstations or Sega genesis. But this is just my experience, as Ive have never had a HDD fail yet, knock on wood. And that includes my vintage macplus 13mb external HDD







. All of my HDD's work to this day.


----------



## eueh

Add me please!


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I lack a null monitor cable to disable cross-fire and load up a client on each.

If it'll increase your ppd I'll make one for you, Just a simple loopback I would assume. Do you have a link for your card?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
If you are running GeForce 181.22 with a pair of 9800 GTs and an 8800 GS, you can run all three cards for [email protected] (Supposedly.)

Some say the shader count matters but from what I've heard from reliable folders is all that matters is the GPU cores must match. Otherwise the non-primary card will take a large hit (probably due to un-coordinated drivers).

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
For some weird reason, DFI decided to do 16x/16x/4x rather than the more-customary 16x/8x/8x.

PCI-E 1x has enough bandwidth not to bottleneck [email protected] console.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JEmmaB* 
O'C testing...


















http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=491786












































:droo l:
















Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
When teh 80's?







Ive been using computers for a long time, and from my personal experience, Ive found that leaving them on all the time is actually worse than shutting them down when not in use. Even with my playstations or Sega genesis. But this is just my experience, as Ive have never had a HDD fail yet, knock on wood. And that includes my vintage macplus 13mb external HDD







. All of my HDD's work to this day.









LOL, My point exactly! Most IS managers got their CE degree in the 70's! :eeK: And alot of them don't even bother to keep up with the curve. It actually is impossible now, You must specialize.

JEBUS! I take 1 day off and this thread throws out 3 pages!!!! If I go to see my Ma in February for a month like I want to I'll have to spend 2 months just to catch up!!!!!!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*











JEBUS! I take 1 day off and this thread throws out 3 pages!!!! If I go to see my Ma in February for a month like I want to I'll have to spend 2 months just to catch up!!!!!!































Hueristic is this guy







taking hits from the bong??? Now you know how I felt when I was gone during December for three weeks. I did not even count the pages. There were to many. I just cut the losses and jumped back in on the last page posted since my absence...


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hueristic is this guy







taking hits from the bong??? Now you know how I felt when I was gone during December for three weeks. I did not even count the pages. There were to many. I just cut the losses and jumped back in on the last page posted since my absence...










fUNNY THING IS IF YOU MET ME YOU WOULD THINK i WAS A pOTHEAD, mY HAIR IS DOWN TO MY ARS AND MY BEARD DOWN TO MY CHEST. bUT i HAVEN'T SMOKED (WELL NOT ENTIRELY







) SINCE i WENT IN THE mARINES 24 YEARS AGO!!!

Sumbichin caps lock!!! One reason I hates fishing my keyboard out!!!!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


fUNNY THING IS IF YOU MET ME YOU WOULD THINK i WAS A pOTHEAD, mY HAIR IS DOWN TO MY ARS AND MY BEARD DOWN TO MY CHEST. bUT i HAVEN'T SMOKED (WELL NOT ENTIRELY







) SINCE i WENT IN THE mARINES 24 YEARS AGO!!!

Sumbichin caps lock!!! One reason I hates fishing my keyboard out!!!!





















































I use to endulge back in highshcool that's prolly why my spelling is so bad...







but I had to get a hair cut and a real job. So off with the hair they say...







now I look like a normal joe. BTW I am not cracking remarks abut txtmastrjoe. You know the expression Plain jane/joe... Any way. So off toppic. I guess the moral of the story is don't puff puff give give and work on your 939's or something will end up in smoke...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I use to endulge back in highshcool that's prolly why my spelling is so bad...







but I had to get a hair cut and a real job. So off with the hair they say...







now I look like a normal joe. BTW I am not cracking remarks abut txtmastrjoe. You know the expression Plain jane/joe... Any way. So off toppic. I guess the moral of the story is don't puff puff give give and work on your 939's *or something will end up in smoke*...










That's not even funny! My PSU was smoking last night







. That'd be the SECOND time this PSU has caught fire....yet its still working! Gotta love generic crap!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


When teh 80's?







Ive been using computers for a long time, and from my personal experience, Ive found that leaving them on all the time is actually worse than shutting them down when not in use. Even with my playstations or Sega genesis. But this is just my experience, as Ive have never had a HDD fail yet, knock on wood. And that includes my vintage macplus 13mb external HDD







. All of my HDD's work to this day.










Omega, this still "supposedly" occurs in hard drives. The main wear and tear comes from the bearings spinning up...going from cold to hot and then back down from hot to cold. This has been discussed on this forum quite a few times so it's definitely not anything new. If this was always the case then it would be pointless to leave a servers running 24/7. Of course something is going to fail if you keep it running


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


If it'll increase your ppd I'll make one for you, Just a simple loopback I would assume. Do you have a link for your card?


Take a DVI to VGA adaptor. Solder in three 75-ohm resistors, shorting 1/6, 2/7, and 3/8. (This explains it.)

It is moot though. I just got a massive payday. So, I am chucking the HD 3850s (check for-sale section soon) and replacing with an HD 4870 1 GB. They still do not crossfire together properly. Accordingly, Diamond is supposedly sending me a third one. I am to keep the pair that works together properly.


----------



## Hueristic

blitz6804 said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> 
> If it'll increase your ppd I'll make one for you, Just a simple loopback I would assume. Do you have a link for your card?QUOTE]
> 
> Take a DVI to VGA adaptor. Solder in three 75-ohm resistors, shorting 1/6, 2/7, and 3/8. (This explains it.)
> 
> It is moot though. I just got a massive payday. So, I am chucking the HD 3850s (check for-sale section soon) and replacing with an HD 4870 1 GB. They still do not crossfire together properly. Accordingly, Diamond is supposedly sending me a third one. I am to keep the pair that works together properly.
> 
> 
> Ohh, you mean the Vista dummy plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought you had a nonstandard card or something. I forget Vista is smarter than us.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
That's not even funny! My PSU was smoking last night







. That'd be the SECOND time this PSU has caught fire....yet its still working! Gotta love generic crap!

DO I SMELL BBQ?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
do i smell bbq?

















Why are my stupid smiley's not working?
EDIT:
There we go







.


----------



## pez

K guys, go make suggestions: http://www.overclock.net/appraisals/...ml#post5413153

It's not a certain thing unless I somehow got offered a really nice deal, but I'm just curiious.


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, it is done. I just ordered an HD 4870x2 from Newegg. ($429 in my hand for Sapphire!) Accordingly, I will be selling my HD 3850s. While most of you have better GPUs than I do, someone might be interested in them. I will post a link over here when I do so. (You all of course get the $5, club-member discount... unless this is against the rules, Thlnk3r?)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Well, it is done. I just ordered an HD 4870x2 from Newegg. ($429 in my hand for Sapphire!) Accordingly, I will be selling my HD 3850s. While most of you have better GPUs than I do, someone might be interested in them. I will post a link over here when I do so. (You all of course get the $5, club-member discount... unless this is against the rules, Thlnk3r?)

Blitz, congrats on the new purchase. I'm sure you'll be happy with the 4870 X2. Please do share some numbers when you get done with your testing.

In regards to your last question, I'd advise PM'ing "The Duke" with that question.

Good luck


----------



## timxirish

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tim, can you take a closer picture? Mainly where the chipset cooler is at? I think you may have room for the *HR-05-SLI* but it's hard to say. If you need help deciding on HSF, definitely talk to Joe









Good luck!



Old post to quote.. I know.. But just as an update, a few days ago I bought one of these from Whodie here on OCN. It's been shipped, and now I'm just waiting on it's arrival. Still using a Tt Blue Orb II for my CPU cooler though.. As much as I hate to say it (the name really annoys me), I might actually buy a TRUE or an IFX-14 for the CPU.. Not sure yet.

As for my current overclocking adventures go.. blitz, thlnk3r,... I've given both your suggestions a shot, but I don't seem to be yielding any positive results. Tried bumping my chipset voltage to 2.60 and adjusting the "CPU VID Special Control" to "Above VID * 110%" (while leaving CPU VID on auto, as I'm unsure what an opteron 165 should be set to.. I need to look this up).. but no dice.

I still need to read up on the relationships between the RAM timings and how it all meshes together. Seems like a pretty complex topic.. at least, from the outside looking in. Hopefully when I *do* start to understand it better, it comes much more naturally.

Because of all this trial and error stuff I've been doing, I had to reset the CMOS multiple times. Eventually I got fed up and said "To hell with this" and did something to make it less of a chore. I wired up a removable switch to the 3 pin headder responsible for resetting the CMOS.. No more alternating jumper positions.. Usually i've got to unplug my 3 HDs just to reach it, and even then it's difficult to touch.. So I took an old female headder for front audio ports, chopped it up and wired it to a SPDT switch i salvaged from a cathode kit (cathodes were installed in an xbox-- they don't like the switch, so I removed it and saved it).




Now that I have an easy way to reset the CMOS, I'll probably be more up to tweaking off and on.


----------



## Blitz6804

Recall N2Gaming making a similar switch for Black n Blue Baby. It should make for an easier time overclocking, you have no excuse now not to push that DFI to its limits!

The stock voltage on a Socket 939 CPU is 1.350 V. AMD permits up to 1.400 V while keeping your warranty in tact. In an email to them, they told me not to exceed 1.450 V or risk damage to the processor.


----------



## eueh

OC still in progress. Add please!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Recall N2Gaming making a similar switch for Black n Blue Baby. It should make for an easier time overclocking, you have no excuse now not to push that DFI to its limits!

The stock voltage on a Socket 939 CPU is 1.350 V. AMD permits up to 1.400 V while keeping your warranty in tact. In an email to them, *they told me not to exceed 1.450 V or risk damage to the processor*.

WHAT? Then my Manny must be dead since I surged 1.95v through her







.


----------



## pez

We should call pio a traitor since he's using Intel.

BLASPHEMY!

Jk pio. Did you pull the trigger on that Neopower yet? And what ever happened to that motherboard you were selling?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


We should call pio a traitor since he's using Intel.

BLASPHEMY!

Jk pio. Did you pull the trigger on that Neopower yet? And what ever happened to that motherboard you were selling?


I already sold the mobo a few weeks ago







. And no I haven't pulled the trigger yet on the NeoPower. Looks like I'm stuck with nothing for a while longer (other than this PSU that randomly catches fire). I have no way to pay for it as I'm $5 and some change short, and newegg won't take my paypal. Even though in the end, newegg is giving me $35 back from it....I just can't pull off the initial purchase







.

Long story short....pio's still screwed for now.


----------



## timxirish

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Recall N2Gaming making a similar switch for Black n Blue Baby. * It should make for an easier time overclocking, you have no excuse now not to push that DFI to its limits!*

The stock voltage on a Socket 939 CPU is 1.350 V. AMD permits up to 1.400 V while keeping your warranty in tact. In an email to them, they told me not to exceed 1.450 V or risk damage to the processor.


Haha, oh so true in all respects. I spent quite some time after that post determining my max FSB. So long as I was doing it right, it's not higher than 335. I do remember hearing about "black holes" from joe (iirc) where sometimes there'll be a gap of FSB values that for whatever reason don't work/boot.. then at a later number it picks back up briefly.

Highest number I attempted was 360, and no go. I got sleepy and decided to hit the sack, so I restored my stable OC via CMOS Reloaded and called it a night (..er.. morning?). I'll try and find my limits once again when i'm a bit more awake.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I already sold the mobo a few weeks ago







. And no I haven't pulled the trigger yet on the NeoPower. Looks like I'm stuck with nothing for a while longer (other than this PSU that randomly catches fire). I have no way to pay for it as I'm $5 and some change short, and newegg won't take my paypal. Even though in the end, newegg is giving me $35 back from it....I just can't pull off the initial purchase







.

Long story short....pio's still screwed for now.

Newegg refused your paypal? That happened to me when I was trying to buy a HD 4850...see how well that one went, eh?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Newegg refused your paypal? That happened to me when I was trying to buy a HD 4850...see how well that one went, eh?

Yes







. Newegg won't take it as its not tied to a credit card (or something like that). And I'm $5 and some change short, until they give me the $35 rebate :/.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Your paypal and New account have to use the same credit card and address. I tried that once before and that's what they told me over the phone. That was about a year ago so it may have changed.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *timxirish*


I wired up a removable switch to the 3 pin headder responsible for resetting the CMOS.. No more alternating jumper positions.. Usually i've got to unplug my 3 HDs just to reach it, and even then it's difficult to touch.. So I took an old female headder for front audio ports, chopped it up and wired it to a SPDT switch i salvaged from a cathode kit (cathodes were installed in an xbox-- they don't like the switch, so I removed it and saved it).


Timxirish, that is quite impressive









What troubles are you currently have with your OC now? I understand 335HTT was your max but did you test your memory as well?

Good luck

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eueh*


OC still in progress. Add please!


Eueh, I've added you to the roster. Welcome to the club!


----------



## timxirish

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Timxirish, that is quite impressive









What troubles are you currently have with your OC now? I understand 335HTT was your max but did you test your memory as well?

Good luck


Thanks







.

As for the OCing troubles go, I'm just not finding stability with the memory timings suggested, but considering they were set so loose, I would have thought I would have gotten better results somewhere..

I haven't done much else aside from determining my mobo's max FSB (max actually turned out to be 340..). When I read this guide, I got the impression that I may need to change my LDT Bus Transfer Width to help with stability, so the 340 is with a x2.5 LDT/FSB freq. ratio and a LDT Bus Transfer Width of down8 and up16. If I've mislead myself here, please inform me.. Anyhow, I felt a little gutsy and also had my chipset voltage at 1.80 during all that. RAM was at 2.70 (which is the max mine is rated at).

Soon I'll figure out my RAM and CPU max speeds.. once I stop playing Left 4 Dead "during reboots".







. At the end of the No Mercy campaign, so that should be within the hour (i hope).


----------



## nategr8ns

So one of my fiends that I helped to pick out/set up a computer had a bunch of us over for a Dota party last night. In the morning I offered to help him overclock a bit, but I couldn't figure out how with the DFI board







.
Where are all of the settings? Do they have to be unlocked somehow?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

nate, look in the "Genie BIOS Settings" for the overclocking goodness.


----------



## pez

Yeah, newegg is really anal about paypal. Pio make an account on ebay and look for one there. Just be smart about what you're bidding on.


----------



## Blitz6804

Oh wow... Joe's new avatar lacks a mask! WHAT!?

Anyway, I am likely going to be leaving for home tomorrow. Expect me to be sparser still than I have been until mid-week.


----------



## pez

Mmm that means the RAM will be coming soon







.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Mmm that means the RAM will be coming soon







.



I RMA'd my Corsair almost a month ago AND THEYRE STILL NOT BACK YET!!!!







GAWD their RMA process sux.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Oh wow... Joe's new avatar lacks a mask! WHAT!?


Look again, bright-eyes! He's got a face-mask on!


----------



## Blitz6804

Joe: It is see-through...

BlackOmega: I did pretty well. For what I paid for my 2x1024 DDR400, the refund covered 4x1024 DDR500. (Since they did not make my RAM anymore.) The entire process took about three weeks. Although, despite sending me a refund, they sent me seven kits of RAM I had to keep refusing shipment on.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I RMA'd my Corsair almost a month ago AND THEYRE STILL NOT BACK YET!!!!







GAWD their RMA process sux.

Same goes for Asus. They suck at the whole RMA proceedure as well.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I RMA'd my Corsair almost a month ago AND THEYRE STILL NOT BACK YET!!!!







GAWD their RMA process sux.

Mines, not RMA







. It's from blitz







.

Sad thing is, if I had an opty or an x2 that could reach at least 2.8, I'd be pretty set. *sigh*. What's the disadvantage of delidded CPU's?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Mines, not RMA







. It's from blitz







.

Sad thing is, if I had an opty or an x2 that could reach at least 2.8, I'd be pretty set. *sigh*. What's the disadvantage of delidded CPU's?


 Nothing of yet that Ive come across. My 3500+ that I pumped over 1.9v into stayed cool enough to still be alive. I suppose the only pitfall might be the actual delidding process, if youre not careful you can kill the chip. Some people can do it in 5 minutes or less. I took my time, took me about 15. But I was being super careful so I didnt damage anything. 
On the plus side, even @ 1.6 volts 100% load only nets a whopping 50*c. That in itself is good enough to delid. because more often than not its temps that hold you back from a good overclock.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Nothing of yet that Ive come across. My 3500+ that I pumped over 1.9v into stayed cool enough to still be alive. I suppose the only pitfall might be the actual delidding process, if youre not careful you can kill the chip. Some people can do it in 5 minutes or less. I took my time, took me about 15. But I was being super careful so I didnt damage anything. 
On the plus side, even @ 1.6 volts 100% load only nets a whopping 50*c. That in itself is good enough to delid. because more often than not its temps that hold you back from a good overclock.


Well I have the opportunity to get my hands on a delidded 165 for 50 bucks shipped, and the owner is looking for the lid. I have two questions. What about the cooler making contact w/ the internal components? I mean...can someone explain that to me? And if he does find the lid, how would I go about putting that back on? Like as in making it stay?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Same goes for Asus. They suck at the whole RMA proceedure as well.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Joe: It is see-through...

BlackOmega: I did pretty well. For what I paid for my 2x1024 DDR400, the refund covered 4x1024 DDR500. (Since they did not make my RAM anymore.) The entire process took about three weeks. Although, despite sending me a refund, they sent me seven kits of RAM I had to keep refusing shipment on.



The thing that really pisses me off about it is I sent my video card out at teh exact same time. I had UPS send me email confirmation of dropoff. EVGA had a replacement back to me the very next week. 
Corsair on the other hand, hadnt marked it as received for over week after they physically had in their possesion. I even had the persons name that signed for it. Man that pisses me off to no end. I pay for a product I cant use


----------



## BlackOmega

Ok, heres a pic of a delidded CPU.









The thing in the center is the actual core. The 19 little raised do-hickeys need to be covered. I'm going to do some experimenting with my 3500+ as to whats a good permanent material to use on it. Some sort of epoxy.
At any rate those have to be covered so they do not make contact whatever cooler you are using. I used small pieces of PVC tape to cover them up. As far as your cooler is concerned, depending on how it attached to the board you might have to file downt he feet of the retention bracket to lower it the 3mm to make contact with the core. I did this to my thermalright xp120. I just sanded down as evenly as possibly, measuring with a verneer caliper, the 3mm difference. 
A bolt down type of cooler like my big typhoon would probably be better since the thickness of the CPU doesnt really matter.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *timxirish*


Now that I have an easy way to reset the CMOS, I'll probably be more up to tweaking off and on.


























Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Oh wow... Joe's new avatar lacks a mask!


























http://offer.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.d...&showauto=true










































:d rink:


----------



## rhkcommander959

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Ok, heres a pic of a delidded CPU.









The thing in the center is the actual core. The 19 little raised do-hickeys need to be covered. I'm going to do some experimenting with my 3500+ as to whats a good permanent material to use on it. Some sort of epoxy.
At any rate those have to be covered so they do not make contact whatever cooler you are using. I used small pieces of PVC tape to cover them up. As far as your cooler is concerned, depending on how it attached to the board you might have to file downt he feet of the retention bracket to lower it the 3mm to make contact with the core. I did this to my thermalright xp120. I just sanded down as evenly as possibly, measuring with a verneer caliper, the 3mm difference. 
A bolt down type of cooler like my big typhoon would probably be better since the thickness of the CPU doesnt really matter.


any glue will do. hot glue would be rubbery even.







i'll try and post pics of my fully insulated opty 165


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*


any glue will do. hot glue would be rubbery even.







i'll try and post pics of my fully insulated opty 165


 Cool, what did you use to insulate it?


----------



## rhkcommander959

I used conformal coating since I do sub ambient cooling and had it on hand....

it works, but it takes a long time to setup, and stinks like a moƒ0. I think hot glue would be the fastest and safest, but also not the best insulant in all cases (depending on the type of hot glue). the heat wont hurt the chips, and the glue is easy to remove, and cures instantly basically.

any glue would work, just make sure tis dry, and doesnt rise above the core or else it will act funky with mounting. I made that mistake with conformal coating once, but I checked for it and such before loading the cpu up. i just used the blade i cut the ihs off with to trim the excess down enough - although mounting pressure might be enough to squish it









good clean cut btw omega.

I'll insulate/delid cpu's for anyone who wants it done but hasn't the experience needed... i lap as well up to mirror shine


----------



## pez

Hmmm, I've decided to start on a journey to get a Opty 170. Just gotta pay it off now







. I surely hope I see a better OC with that than this 3800X2. As soon as I get the Opty and make sure it's working for a week, I'll be shipping the 3800 out to whoever offers me the best deal







.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Hmmm, I've decided to start on a journey to get a Opty 170. Just gotta pay it off now







. I surely hope I see a better OC with that than this 3800X2. As soon as I get the Opty and make sure it's working for a week, I'll be shipping the 3800 out to whoever offers me the best deal







.


AMD Opteron 165 socket 939 CPUCurrent bid:US $50.00 2 hours 34 mins (Jan-26-09 10:33:50 PST)


----------



## Xyro TR1

Hey, if anyone runs across an Opty 185 for under $150, please let me know. I want one badly.

Also, looking for another mATX S939 board with a PCI-E slot.


----------



## thlnk3r

If anyone remembers me asking about if whether or not the DFI SLI-DR supports ECC memory well the answer to that is "No". I tested a few sticks of ECC memory and I was greeted with long beeps after powering on the machine









Good luck guys


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*


Hey, if anyone runs across an Opty 185 for under $150, please let me know. I want one badly.

Also, looking for another mATX S939 board with a PCI-E slot.










I just bought a "TYAN TOMCAT K8E S2865 MOTHERBOARD" and have a MSI 
K8N Neo3 and a asrock sataII. Not sure which 2 I'll be using. Just bought the tyan but really was only going for the opteron. If your interested PM me.

ALSO Guys which of these MB's should I use for my gameing system? Obviously going for highest overclock on the opty 165.

Currently using the asrock for main system and MSI for [email protected] machine.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


If anyone remembers me asking about if whether or not the DFI SLI-DR supports ECC memory well the answer to that is "No". I tested a few sticks of ECC memory and I was greeted with long beeps after powering on the machine









Good luck guys



Good to know thx! Never been a dfi fan since the PII days when the booard didn't auto detect the Kalmans 2.8v but That is really the only issue I've had with DFI. I guess they've gotten thier sheet together since going High Performance.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Good lord....

I want one, but not that badly... (Opty 185 content)


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


I just bought a "TYAN TOMCAT K8E S2865 MOTHERBOARD" and have a MSI 
K8N Neo3 and a asrock sataII. Not sure which 2 I'll be using. Just bought the tyan but really was only going for the opteron. If your interested PM me.


Question: Is this a misprint? MSI is listing the K8N Neo3 as a socket 754 board. 

Also, if it is a misprint, and I believe it is, that looks to be your best OCing board of the three.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Xyro, just curious: What's the appeal behind an Opteron 185? Unless it's put into a motherboard that just can't sustain a high-enough reference speed increase (or if it's intended to run at stock speed), I don't see the point of spending for a top-of-the-line CPU.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*


Question: Is this a misprint? MSI is listing the K8N Neo3 as a socket 754 board. 


I don't believe that is a misprint. The Neo4 series (to my knowledge) are the 939 boards.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Xyro, just curious: What's the appeal behind an Opteron 185? Unless it's put into a motherboard that just can't sustain a high-enough reference speed increase (or if it's intended to run at stock speed), I don't see the point of spending for a top-of-the-line CPU.










It's going to be a server. I want it to run cool and quiet in my room 24/7. I've got an Intel server currently, but it's not near powerful enough to do what I want. I don't want to fiddle with OCing with it being a server, either.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*


It's going to be a server. I want it to run cool and quiet in my room 24/7. I've got an Intel server currently, but it's not near powerful enough to do what I want. I don't want to fiddle with OCing with it being a server, either.










Makes sense.







I haven't OCed my server either. Mine's just an Opteron 170, and it works fine for me.









Regarding the MSI motherboard: I don't think it's a mistake. There were a few nForce3 motherboards released for S939, but the chipset originally was meant for S754. The picture also shows a S754 ZIF socket.

It's possible that MSI also has a S939 variant of the same chipset; a pox on them, then, if they used the identical name for two boards with different sockets.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1* 
It's going to be a server. I want it to run cool and quiet in my room 24/7. I've got an Intel server currently, but it's not near powerful enough to do what I want. I don't want to fiddle with OCing with it being a server, either.









I know you don't want to overclock it, but a lot of times, that would be easier (and cheaper), and just as cool. Take my Opteron for example. She hits 2.4GHz (600MHz boost over stock 1.8), and it only takes 1.00v to get her there. 2.8GHz takes 1.225v. Its all about how lucky your CPU is really...but getting a cheaper chip and overclocking / undervolting (if possible) would take my vote anyday.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Here's a question for those with experience with server machines: Does it really matter how fast the processor runs? What advantage is there for a pure server machine if it ran a faster CPU?

For sure you want it to be as close to perfectly stable as possible; but what impact (if any) does a faster CPU have on a server?

Also, what other ways are there to boost server machine performance?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Here's a question for those with experience with server machines: Does it really matter how fast the processor runs? What advantage is there for a pure server machine if it ran a faster CPU?

For sure you want it to be as close to perfectly stable as possible; but what impact (if any) does a faster CPU have on a server?

Also, what other ways are there to boost server machine performance?

If you are referring to file servers:

The only difference a faster CPU gives, is if you have a lot of traffic on the network. There are a few things that will increase a server's speed, that don't necessarily have anything to do with CPU clock:

Faster network (gigabit, with CAT5E or better cabling)
More RAM (I recommend AT LEAST 2GB, more if you have a lot of "client" rigs)
Faster Hard drives or a RAID setup

Honestly, CPU speed really doesn't effect a whole lot on file servers. It'll obviously help more than it'll hurt, but the difference is very VERY little if any. My personal file server for example is a dual Pentium 3 setup @ 1.13GHz (stock of 1.0GHz). I have roughly 5 machines in total (usually, when they're not ALL DEAD!!). So that's plenty for my setup.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Thanks for the thoughts, pio. These jive with my own inexperienced opinions, actually.









On my machine (based on a S939 Tyan K8E SLI - yep, an SLI-capable server board! Not that I'm running SLI on it...), the only new parts (aside from the motherboard) are the hard drives. All the rest are spares. I don't have all the data uploaded onto it, but at least it's got the OS installed.

I'm so lazy when it comes to working on that machine... it's been many months in the making.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Thanks for the thoughts, pio. These jive with my own inexperienced opinions, actually.









On my machine (based on a S939 Tyan K8E SLI - yep, an SLI-capable server board! Not that I'm running SLI on it...), the only new parts (aside from the motherboard) are the hard drives. All the rest are spares. I don't have all the data uploaded onto it, but at least it's got the OS installed.

I'm so lazy when it comes to working on that machine... it's been many months in the making.









My server machine is getting the same treatment actually







. I've got:

Tyan S2466 Dual Socket A Motherboard
Dual Athlon MP 2200+ @ 1.8GHz
1GB ECC / Registered RAM (2x512MB) (need more







)
And the hard drives from my old server
Rosewill 4port SATA RAID card

I still need massive hard drives, more RAM, and a video card to complete it







.

I only decided to upgrade because this entire rig cost $50 used from OCN. Whereas the RAID card that I needed (which came WITH the rig) was $30 at newegg. The choice was obvious for me


----------



## Xyro TR1

My only issue is that my new rig is not going to be a fileserver. This rig is going to be a gameserver, which needs a fast processor, fast RAM, and a fast net connection. I have a file server (see link in sig) and it's perfectly spec'd for what it is (although it's moving cases soon, to accommodate more HD's).

But yeah, on the gameserver, I want the ability to run it at a high stock speed, and if necessary, will OC it even higher.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Oh wow... Joe's new avatar lacks a mask! WHAT!?


Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Look again, bright-eyes! He's got a face-mask on!









this









Quote:


Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959* 
any glue will do. hot glue would be rubbery even.







i'll try and post pics of my fully insulated opty 165

Wouldn't hot glue melt that close to the hot base of a heatsink and the core?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1* 
My only issue is that my new rig is not going to be a fileserver. This rig is going to be a gameserver, which needs a fast processor, fast RAM, and a fast net connection. I have a file server (see link in sig) and it's perfectly spec'd for what it is (although it's moving cases soon, to accommodate more HD's).

But yeah, on the gameserver, I want the ability to run it at a high stock speed, and if necessary, will OC it even higher.

Xyro, what game are you going to be hosting? Game servers aren't always entirely dependent on the CPU. Drive speed is important because the loading of the maps ect. Once everything is loaded into memory then CPU hardly has to work. If you're running any mods then yes that will take more CPU because more processing is required to complete the game events. Obviously connection type is the most important(inbound traffic). Are you hosting this at your home?

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Congrats on becoming an Editor Joe!


----------



## thlnk3r

What Joe is a forum editor


















Congrats buddy!


----------



## Ch13f121

This thread is like an awesome blast from the past, I was reading through it and I felt like I was reading a 3 year old thread, like the ones back when I just joined up on OCN


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
What Joe is a forum editor


















Congrats buddy!

Holy shazza razza frazzin frazzer!









Congrats Joe!


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Xyro, what game are you going to be hosting? Game servers aren't always entirely dependent on the CPU. Drive speed is important because the loading of the maps ect. Once everything is loaded into memory then CPU hardly has to work. If you're running any mods then yes that will take more CPU because more processing is required to complete the game events. Obviously connection type is the most important(inbound traffic). Are you hosting this at your home?

Good luck









Garry's Mod is most taxing of all. Also, planning on Left 4 Dead and UT3.

That said, I was crunching some numbers earlier, and I may in fact be going over to the dark side for my server needs... A Q6600 rig is barely more expensive than what I had budgeted for my Opty rig, and will be significantly more powerful. That will allow me to bring down my little radio server and consolidate into one system.

Although, since I already have an Opty 148 sitting here, and a whole bunch of new pieces for a 939 rig laying around, I'm going to have to build it into _something_. The question is.... what?


----------



## Blitz6804

The gaming rig! *Kids.*

If not a gaming server, perhaps a dedicated file server? Perhaps an HTPC?


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
The gaming rig! *Kids.*

If not a gaming server, perhaps a dedicated file server? Perhaps an HTPC?

The Q6600 rig will be more than sufficient as a file server. RAID5 1TB drives. HTPC is AM2+, and is in build stages.

Any other suggestions? lol


----------



## BlackOmega

Folding rig?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Folding rig?


I double this.

As I also wish for my RAM to arive, and for my 939 chip to come.

This way I can test to see if my board is DoA.

And hopefully give it to my little brother to use on the weekends while I have it as glory for the week days.

/has to many systems.


----------



## Iceman0803

gratz on becoming a forum editor Joe


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Congrats on becoming an Editor Joe!

I just noticed this too. Congrats joe, you def. deserve it







.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1* 
Garry's Mod is most taxing of all. Also, planning on Left 4 Dead and UT3.

That said, I was crunching some numbers earlier, and I may in fact be going over to the dark side for my server needs... A Q6600 rig is barely more expensive than what I had budgeted for my Opty rig, and will be significantly more powerful. That will allow me to bring down my little radio server and consolidate into one system.

Although, since I already have an Opty 148 sitting here, and a whole bunch of new pieces for a 939 rig laying around, I'm going to have to build it into _something_. The question is.... what?

Why not make it into a HTPC? Low power usage, and it has potential to be super quiet. After I get the Opty 170, I'm thinking of putting the x2 into a case that I want to mod w/ a 939 mobo that I'll have to find.


----------



## TestECull

Have I missed anything cool?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Gratz Joe!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## pez

TestE, you're not able to get that 4200+ past 2.6?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*


Question: Is this a misprint? MSI is listing the K8N Neo3 as a socket 754 board. 

Also, if it is a misprint, and I believe it is, that looks to be your best OCing board of the three.
























I've never removed the cpu (2800+) since I got the board! LOL I may have got screwed! I'll check when I finish up on the pci-e mod.

IIRC 939 will also run 754 chips, Is this true?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


IIRC 939 will also run 754 chips, Is this true?


Can't do it. The CPUs and sockets are physically incompatible with each other.









(754 pins < 939 pins)


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Can't do it. The CPUs and sockets are physically incompatible with each other.









(754 pins < 939 pins)


THX Montana Mod!!!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


THX Montana Mod!!!


















Not a mod, good sir!







That's thlnk3r.









Call me "Ed," if you'd like.









By the way, I'd be remiss if I didn't thank you guys for congratulating me here and in PM. A heartfelt THANK YOU to all.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1* 
Garry's Mod is most taxing of all. Also, planning on Left 4 Dead and UT3.

Xyro, will this game server be hosted at your home? In terms of internet connection you'll need a decent upstream. Also if you're on a dynamic IP then you may also run into some issues. Are you on a business plan? ISP's are strongly against home users hosting anything. I would imagine the only way they would find out is if your account started getting a lot of traffic.

For the extra machine, make it into a VM host and start a domain controller with exchange









Good luck


----------



## HothBase

Alright, it took 6 hours of experimenting to get it Orthos stable, but my RAM is now running at DDR450! Timings are 2.5-3-2-6-1T (TRC 8T, TRFC 11T).
I learned some useful things about these sticks today. Turns out that tighter TRC and TRFC timings actually improve stability!
And here is another thing, 2.7v only gives me Orthos errors, 2.6v seems like the best option.

Congrats to Joe!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


Alright, it took 6 hours of experimenting to get it Orthos stable, but my RAM is now running at DDR450! Timings are 2.5-3-2-6-1T (TRC 8T, TRFC 11T).
I learned some useful things about these sticks today. Turns out that tighter TRC and TRFC timings actually improve stability!
And here is another thing, 2.7v only gives me Orthos errors, 2.6v seems like the best option.


HothBase, congrats on the nice memory overclock
 








Would it be possible for you to include a screen shot of the memory tab (CPU-Z)? I'm a tad curious on your tRP and tRAS settings. Very interesting about the 2.7volts versus the 2.6volts. Usually higher voltages add stability but I guess in your case this isn't always true.

Good luck


----------



## HothBase

Attachment 95502

Just found out that it's not perfectly stable though








Orthos stable really doesn't guarantee stable gaming at all, didn't last more than 10 minutes in game.

Guess I will have to work some more on that OC tomorrow, no more of this today.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
Attachment 95502

Just found out that it's not perfectly stable though








Orthos stable really doesn't guarantee stable gaming at all, didn't last more than 10 minutes in game.

Guess I will have to work some more on that OC tomorrow, no more of this today.









HothBase, have you tested with a command rate of 2T? I have feeling these are Hynix D43's which are very difficult to overclock. Try a tRP of 3 as well and see if that helps.

Good luck


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Xyro, will this game server be hosted at your home? In terms of internet connection you'll need a decent upstream. Also if you're on a dynamic IP then you may also run into some issues. Are you on a business plan? ISP's are strongly against home users hosting anything. I would imagine the only way they would find out is if your account started getting a lot of traffic.

For the extra machine, make it into a VM host and start a domain controller with exchange









Good luck

Yes, it will be hosted from my home. I've got a low-latency 20Mbps concurrent fiber connection. I'm using a dynamic IP, but am using a dynamic domain name to compensate for that fact. Yes, I'm using a residential package, but Verizon dosen't care. YiffyGriffy is hosting our primary gameservers from the same type of internet connection just a couple miles from me, and he hasn't had any issues with Verizon freaking out. I'm hosting an internet radio station from here, and despite my upstream usage being more than double my downstream, I've had no issues. I think I'm in the clear.









And also, YES I will do that! Perfect plan for that machine.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Offtopic: Hoth, what is your avatar from??

EDIT: didn't mean to make a new post >.<


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*


but am using a dynamic domain name to compensate for that fact.


Xyro, are doing this through dyndns? What kind of radio station are you hosting? Sounds pretty sweet









Good luck


----------



## pioneerisloud

Sorry for the absense guys, internet went down







.

Xyro:
I wouldn't recommend using any Socket 939 setup for a Garry's Mod server. You'll NEVER hear me NOT recommending a 939 again....but Garry's Mod needs TONS of processing power. You need to go with the highest clocked C2D or C2Q you can get (or one that overclocks really high). Garry's Mod will only use one core unfortunately, and if you have a lot of physics objects (I know I do), then you will certainly lag the server down quite easily.

I would recommend you either search around and find a really good clocking Q6600, or on a budget, go for an e5200 build for your game server. I mean it, you need TONS of processing power from one core....although I'm sure you already know that.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*


Offtopic: Hoth, what is your avatar from?


Looks like VideoGame Cats.


----------



## TheSandman

hmm Im need to replace my A64 3500, ive ordered an HD4670 to replace my x1600Pro and well I dont have enough for new ram, CPU and mobo right now, is there a cheap option for 939 upgrades


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Looks like VideoGame Cats.


Blitz, it also looks like a Jedi next to a tan-tan hence the name HothBase from Empire Strikes Back (ep5). That is my favorite episode










Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheSandman*


hmm Im need to replace my A64 3500, ive ordered an HD4670 to replace my x1600Pro and well I dont have enough for new ram, CPU and mobo right now, is there a cheap option for 939 upgrades


TheSandman, if you haven't already the cheapest upgrade would be to overclock that 3500+. Trying to find a dual core S939 processor can be painstaking and expensive. What kind of performance are you looking for?

Good luck


----------



## TheSandman

its running @ 2.7ghz right now, which i was amazed to get on this ECS board anyway. I'm tring to get good overall gaming preformace from this rig. RA3 runs sluggish as well as CnC3 and I've heard ill be in a bad spot in COD4 and COD5 with this single core because of physics


----------



## Blitz6804

It would likely be a fair assumption to say it was a SW V:TESB parody done by the author of VGCats. He is often doing movie parodies.


----------



## pez

Just get XP running and that single core should actually be just fine. Unless you want to run maxed settings. You could get away w/ medium details and most things turned off and it still looks like a decent game.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheSandman*


its running @ 2.7ghz right now, which i was amazed to get on this ECS board anyway. I'm tring to get good overall gaming preformace from this rig. RA3 runs sluggish as well as CnC3 and I've heard ill be in a bad spot in COD4 and COD5 with this single core because of physics


TheSandman, a newer video card purchase would improve gaming performance. My brother was gaming on a 3200+ (stock) for the longest time and he was getting an average of 40-80FPS in COD4, CSS and a few other games. I'm sure the 3500+ has somewhat to do with the gaming performance being poor but I doubt it's the cause for everything.

If you have a larger budget then you could always lean towards a Phenom build. I'd pick up a new video card first, that could always be carried to a new build.

Good luck buddy


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheSandman*


its running @ 2.7ghz right now, which i was amazed to get on this ECS board anyway. I'm tring to get good overall gaming preformace from this rig. RA3 runs sluggish as well as CnC3 and I've heard ill be in a bad spot in COD4 and COD5 with this single core because of physics



Single cores really arent that bad. Im running my 3500+ @ 2.6,with 1 9600GSO I dont have any issues running most games totally maxed out @ 1680x1050.
Im going to try the FEAR2 demo tonight and Ill tell you how it does. But most other games run smooth usually, might get the occaisional hiccup but nothing too bad. I was just checking out Dark Messiah and with everything maxed it ran flawlessly. Lowest FPS I saw was 50. Wierd thing is during the cut scenes I get lower FPS, about 25, but the quality is SOO much worse during those scenes also.








Anyway, I just ordered an XFX4870XXX and Im going to run a bunch of comparisons with that thing between single core and dual core performance at various clock speeds. I dont expect too much difference to tell you honestly. But we'll see.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

BlackOmega, you are a man after my own heart, with a similar appetite for testing.









I look forward to your results.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


BlackOmega, you are a man after my own heart, with a similar appetite for testing.









I look forward to your results.


















Ill most definitely post them up.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I just ordered an XFX4870XXX and Im going to run a bunch of comparisons with that thing between single core and dual core performance at various clock speeds. I dont expect too much difference to tell you honestly. But we'll see.










BlackOmega, this is exactly what I was looking for! I can't wait









Good luck bud


----------



## BlackOmega

I jsut got my corsairs back too (finally), Im going to see if that NF4 board will go over 400 stable with better OCing ram








Im also supposed to be receiving that ICdiamond stuff for testing so Ill try different CPU's with different mobos.....man that sounds like a weekend project









Btw, I got the 1gb model, and a new HDD so my results will be on a fresh install to boot. I wonder if I can match newer CPUs with similar clocks. I'm expecting that Ill be right up with them, I wasnt far off with my GSO's. Itll hopefully be here friday. Cant wait.


----------



## TheSandman

well im looking at the HD4670 or HD3870 for the system the x1600pro is a little slow these days


----------



## Blitz6804

I happen to know a guy who will be very shortly listing a pair of factory OCed HD 3850s in the For Sale section. Depending on the resolution you run though, you may be better served with the HD 4670. (Given that it is 17", likely 1024x768, I am going to say not really.)


----------



## TheSandman

1280x1024 is what i prefer to run but latley ive been running at either 8x6 or 10x7 yes. The max res is 12x10


----------



## biatchi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Lowest FPS I saw was 50. Wierd thing is during the cut scenes I get lower FPS, about 25, but the quality is SOO much worse during those scenes also.

















They will be PAL videos running at 25 Fps rather than the 29 Fps NTSC runs at.


----------



## Blitz6804

29.97 actually. This is why we usually just say 30 FPS. (60 Hz, interlaced.)


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I happen to know a guy who will be very shortly listing a pair of factory OCed HD 3850s in the For Sale section. Depending on the resolution you run though, you may be better served with the HD 4670. (Given that it is 17", likely 1024x768, I am going to say not really.)


Quote:


Originally Posted by *TheSandman* 
1280x1024 is what i prefer to run but latley ive been running at either 8x6 or 10x7 yes. The max res is 12x10

Lol blitz...I wonder who..

Sandman, anything from a HD 3850 and up would probably be a huge upgrade for you. I'd suggest trying to go for something like a HD 4830 or 9800GT. At that resolution, you wouldn't even have to worry about the settings anymore lol.


----------



## BlackOmega

Well here is something wierd that I havent seen before. After I received my ram back I put in on my DFI board that has my naked 3500 on it. Reapplied AS5 and all that started er up and it runs like it should. Well maybe a little hotter than before. So I decided to run a short stress test on it to see what kind of temps im showing. While I dont think I saw any higher than 56*c according to coretemp, smartguardian has flipped out and showed it @ 72*c. It actually shut down once and I had to deactivate the thermal shutdown feature in the BIOS. But heres a screen shot, any ideas? Opinions?


----------



## pez

So you're at 1.52 voltage black? You need that much just for 2.6? 72 is kinda high considering I remember my 3500+ never got hotter than 45C under load, even on 1.4 Vcore.

Oh, also, try HWMonitor (made by ppl of CPU-z I think) and see what your temps are on there. That's usually correct, but then again, software that determines temperatures isn't always accurate. But, like you said, if it was shutting off, then it probably was getting as high as smartguardian reflects.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
So you're at 1.52 voltage black? You need that much just for 2.6? 72 is kinda high considering I remember my 3500+ never got hotter than 45C under load, even on 1.4 Vcore.

Oh, also, try HWMonitor (made by ppl of CPU-z I think) and see what your temps are on there. That's usually correct, but then again, software that determines temperatures isn't always accurate. But, like you said, if it was shutting off, then it probably was getting as high as smartguardian reflects.

Ive just been to lazy to dial the voltage back actually







as for teh temps, I dont think smartguardian is correct. Its linked to the BIOS somehow though, aside from that both S&M and Coretemp show my max hitting 56*c. Also, smartguardian would jump around a lot, 1 second it would show 72*c then teh next it would show 50*, I found it more amusing than anything else that it was showing it that hot.


----------



## pez

Ah, I gotcha. Well you should see how low of a voltage you can get 2.6 stable on. Might get lucky and be able to pull off something lower than stock.


----------



## Blitz6804

You just reapplied the AS5. Is this temp pre- or post-cure time? I have seen temperatures drop as much as 10Âº C post-cure. Have you tried reinstalling the SmartGuardian driver?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Also, smartguardian would jump around a lot, 1 second it would show 72*c then teh next it would show 50*

BlackOmega, what is being displayed in your BIOS? Does it jump around in there as well? If it's going from 72C to 50C back and forth this to me means a improper mount. I would re-verify and make sure the cooler is mounted correctly. Do you have another S939 processor (with an IHS) that you could test with? Even without AS5 (or any thermal compound) you shouldn't see temps as high as 72C. I know this because I've ran quite few procs without TIM and sometimes not even a fan









Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

BlackOmega, a question: What CPU cooler do you have mounted on the naked 3500+?

If it's a clip-on type, it's entirely possible that the mount isn't tight enough, which compromises the cooler's contact with the naked core die.

At any rate, to me it sounds like the contact between the core die and the base of the HSF isn't optimal.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
HothBase, have you tested with a command rate of 2T? I have feeling these are Hynix D43's which are very difficult to overclock. Try a tRP of 3 as well and see if that helps.

Good luck










tRP 3 together with the 1T command rate actually made it worse.
DDR458 @ 2.5-3-3-6-2T is 5h gaming stable though, but I'm not sure if it's worth it. I lost 2200 MB/s Write Bandwidth and gained 5 ns Latency compared to DDR440 @ 2.5-3-2-6-1T. Read Bandwidth seems to have been unaffected though, I'm getting 6876 MB/s.
Pretty sure that these are Infineon BE-5 ICs.

Maybe if i got another pair of sticks... then I would have no other choice but to use the 2T anyway...







Would take me two months before I had the cash to spend... but what do you guys say? 2GB vs. 4GB, any noticeable difference in games? Been thinking of reinstalling that old Vista if I do decide to buy more.

And just to confirm what has already been said, yes. My avatar is from VGC, been reading those comics for a couple of years now.


----------



## TheSandman

Hey I just got back from cashing a lotto ticket downtown, won 500 dollars from a scratch off, can't complain but would it be worth it to get a 939X2 or Opteron x2 or just go AM2?


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TheSandman* 
Hey I just got back from cashing a lotto ticket downtown, won 500 dollars from a scratch off, can't complain but would it be worth it to get a 939X2 or Opteron x2 or just go AM2?

As long as you don't spend it all.








If you want to hear what I think, I wouldn't pay more than $130 tops for an X2 or ~$190 for an Opty(depends on which model, really), but that's just me.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
tRP 3 together with the 1T command rate actually made it worse.
DDR458 @ 2.5-3-3-6-2T is 5h gaming stable though, but I'm not sure if it's worth it. I lost 2200 MB/s Write Bandwidth and gained 5 ns Latency compared to DDR440 @ 2.5-3-2-6-1T. Read Bandwidth seems to have been unaffected though, I'm getting 6876 MB/s.

HothBase, well what is more important...a stable PC or higher write bandwidth? I don't see the point of having higher write bandwidth if you can't get your machine stable. When things were stable, did you notice a performance difference between the two when playing a game?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TheSandman* 
Hey I just got back from cashing a lotto ticket downtown, won 500 dollars from a scratch off, can't complain but would it be worth it to get a 939X2 or Opteron x2 or just go AM2?

TheSandman, good question. Is $500 your budget for new parts? If you can find a S939 X2 processor for cheap then I would jump on that. It would be cheaper then upgrading to a whole new platform (ie. DDR2 memory, AM2 board, processor). All though AM2 parts aren't that bad in terms of price. If it were me, I'd pick up a new video card.

Good luck guys


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
HothBase, well what is more important...a stable PC or higher write bandwidth? I don't see the point of having higher write bandwidth if you can't get your machine stable. When things were stable, did you notice a performance difference between the two when playing a game?

DDR440 was actually stable as far as I know, it needs a bit more testing though.







DDR450 was the unstable speed.
I can't say that I notice any real difference in game.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TheSandman* 
Hey I just got back from cashing a lotto ticket downtown, won 500 dollars from a scratch off, can't complain but would it be worth it to get a 939X2 or Opteron x2 or just go AM2?

TheSandman, I think it depends on how much of the $500.00 you want to spend.







I mean, if you will use all of the money on computer parts, I personally would investigate the possibility of going with an AM2 build. The CPUs are getting cheaper all the time, as well as the motherboards. DDR2 is cheap, too. This move is also all the more advisable if you have bought a retail OS (i.e., one you can legally transfer from one machine to another).

Staying with S939 would not be as big an outlay, obviously, but you get poorer value, because dual-core S939 CPUs command a rather high price even in the used parts market (and they're nearly impossible to find retail). But consider this: You can get upgrades in both a dual-core CPU and a higher-spec video card by not paying additionally for everything else (motherboard, CPU, RAM, OS, etc.).

I hope these ideas help you make a sound decision.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
HothBase, well what is more important...a stable PC or higher write bandwidth? I don't see the point of having higher write bandwidth if you can't get your machine stable. When things were stable, did you notice a performance difference between the two when playing a game?

TheSandman, good question. Is $500 your budget for new parts? If you can find a S939 X2 processor for cheap then I would jump on that. It would be cheaper then upgrading to a whole new platform (ie. DDR2 memory, AM2 board, processor). All though AM2 parts aren't that bad in terms of price. If it were me, I'd pick up a new video card.

Good luck guys









If you're going to use it all, then go to AM2+. You could just start out by getting the CPU, Motherboard, and RAM and that wouldn't even be $400. You could get a nice Phenom II 940 for $235, a good AM2+ motherboard for $100 and then 4 gigs of RAM for $50-70. Then the other $100 could be used for a better card, or a newer OS lol.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
If you're going to use it all, then go to AM2+. You could just start out by getting the CPU, Motherboard, and RAM and that wouldn't even be $400. You could get a nice Phenom II 940 for $235, a good AM2+ motherboard for $100 and then 4 gigs of RAM for $50-70. Then the other $100 could be used for a better card, or a newer OS lol.

Pez, this is very true. Well put









I put together a budget AM2 system for someone on here a while back using Newegg.com and it came out to be in the low $200's.

Sandman, you can also save more money if you carried over your X1600Pro to your new build. That would actually be a great idea for the time being.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

TheSandman: A new CPU would set you back about $150. This leaves $350 for a GPU, which is a GTX 260 or an HD 4850x2. If you want to swap platforms, you need a CPU, a mobo, and RAM. The motherboard is at most $160. The RAM is as cheap as $40. The CPU is $80 for a top-of-the-line dual core, $240 for a top-of-the-line Deneb. (Top-of-the-line Agena is $150. Newegg currently has a sale for a 790GX mobo and 9850 BE for $225. (I would advise you pass on the 790GX though because of the 8.0x PCI-E 2.0 slots.) At $440 (assuming the worst case scenario), you can get an Agena, 4 GB of DDR2-800, and still have a little room for a used HD 3850.

Personally, I would get the dual-core 939 and a massive GPU. Jump into AM3 with your massive GPU when prices come down.


----------



## Blitz6804

Sorry for double, but I think this is important:

Check out the price on this HD 4850x2! It is so low, that Newegg cannot show it. With that cost, you can afford to not only get a dual-core, but also another 2 GB of RAM.


----------



## nategr8ns

woah, what an amazing deal!
plus (AFAIK) sapphire has the best CS of the ATI brands.
oh and by the way, check out the latest link in my sig, my new blog.
I made a thread about it in the art/design section.

and I'm not allowed to tell you to click on the advertisements


----------



## Blitz6804

Nor are you allowed to link it in your signature. The ToS require that all signature links be local. (The loophole of course is to make a thread on OCN about it, and then link that in your thread. But you did not see that here.)


----------



## jrs

I think it's about time I joined this group

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=494950
running @1.25v right now

My buddy just gave me his 939 stuff too. So I have:
3000+ @2.6 1.53v LBBLE 0525EPMW (naked)
OPTY 165 CCBBE 0617FPMW shown above (Thanks tankguys)
3800+ x2 LDBFE 0622 EPMW
DFI Lanparty Ultra-D
MSI K8n-neo4 SLI
Some ECS matx board

I guess I already have a few questions. The first of which is about the 3800+ x2 stepping. I actually don't know if the processor works, but I am pretty sure it does (Will test soon). From what I found it seems to be decent, but other places said otherwise. It has been so long since I looked at the steppings for these things...

Also to dig up an old problem my DFI board will not go past 333 fsb. It used to be Burn's(mod/director here). He had the same wall even with a low multiplier. I'm just wondering if anyone had new ideas to get it up there. My opteron can definitely go higher....

My friend also gave me some ram. Crucial ballistix bl6464z402.16tgy. I found somewhere on here that they clock pretty high with loose timings. (Micron B5 someone said?) not sure really was hoping someone could verify.

Sorry for all the questions

~jrs


----------



## pez

Oh wow you were just given 2 dual core 939 CPU's? Jeez, that's pretty awesome. If you plan to sell the board, I may have some interest. Not sure about all the stepping, but the others will be able to help you out. Is that the DFI that offers SLI? If so and you ever want to sell it, hit me up







.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Sorry for double, but I think this is important:

Check out the price on this HD 4850x2! It is so low, that Newegg cannot show it. With that cost, you can afford to not only get a dual-core, but also another 2 GB of RAM.

Nice deal you found there! The looks of that thing reminds me of another card.


----------



## TheSandman

Ok I spent some of it, ran to the local computer shop picked these up

EVGA 9600GT
Athlon X2 5200
MSI K9N Neo-F Nforce 560

cost me 250

I also got 2gb DDR2 800 SuperTalent ram, that im not including in cost, as he traded my my 2gb DDR for the 2gb DDR2. Im on my laptop right now installing the OS. Im gonna give the A64 and x1600pro to my mother to replace her old XP 1600+ machine


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Nor are you allowed to link it in your signature. The ToS require that all signature links be local. (The loophole of course is to make a thread on OCN about it, and then link that in your thread. But you did not see that here.)

didn't know the local rule, thanks. changing it


----------



## jrs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Oh wow you were just given 2 dual core 939 CPU's? Jeez, that's pretty awesome. If you plan to sell the board, I may have some interest. Not sure about all the stepping, but the others will be able to help you out. Is that the DFI that offers SLI? If so and you ever want to sell it, hit me up







.

yeah he gave me the x2 3800+, the ecs, and the crucial. The other stuff was mine from my other set-ups. Hmm unfortunately for you I don't plan on selling the DFI. It's my favorite board haha.....except it wont clock over 333 fsb. Itis not the SLI version however it might be an early enough version of the board to do the SLI mod...not sure because I don't have a need to do so.

~jrs


----------



## justedbin

hey i got an Opteron 170 now, bought it a couple months back and now noticed i haven't updated my slot on the list, Opty 170 @ 2.45GHz


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jrs* 
yeah he gave me the x2 3800+, the ecs, and the crucial. The other stuff was mine from my other set-ups. Hmm unfortunately for you I don't plan on selling the DFI. It's my favorite board haha.....except it wont clock over 333 fsb. Itis not the SLI version however it might be an early enough version of the board to do the SLI mod...not sure because I don't have a need to do so.

~jrs

even if it is a newer one, you just have to scratch/melt off the glue covering the two pins.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jrs* 
yeah he gave me the x2 3800+, the ecs, and the crucial. The other stuff was mine from my other set-ups. Hmm unfortunately for you I don't plan on selling the DFI. It's my favorite board haha.....except it wont clock over 333 fsb. Itis not the SLI version however it might be an early enough version of the board to do the SLI mod...not sure because I don't have a need to do so.

~jrs

Does the MSI SLI board you have work? Do you know it's top FSB? I'm asking just in case you do ever let it go as my boards FSB cap is 300.


----------



## jrs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Does the MSI SLI board you have work? Do you know it's top FSB? I'm asking just in case you do ever let it go as my boards FSB cap is 300.

Don't really know the cap or if it works. It worked then I let my buddy borrow it and he said it wasn't working for him so I need to test it. Getting back to the cap umm I am pretty sure the fsb goes really high, but with a low multiplier. Without a volt mod it can only deliver a vcore of 1.52 so I never got it any higher than 290 stable with my 3000+. I might let some of this stuff go. My other friend is giving me his fried set-up. As-rock dualsata, and a 3800+ single (I doubt either works...his PSU went out and even took his cd-rom drive with it).


----------



## Blitz6804

I will add your new Opty later today justedbin.

As to everyone else, I am not ignoring your validations, but I have been a fuzz busy lately.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Please welcome jrs, our newest Club member.









Regarding your questions:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jrs*


I guess I already have a few questions. The first of which is about the 3800+ x2 stepping. I actually don't know if the processor works, but I am pretty sure it does (Will test soon). From what I found it seems to be decent, but other places said otherwise. It has been so long since I knew the steppings for these things...


Unfortunately, data for Manchester dual-core steppings isn't as comprehensive or available, so it's a little difficult to say what specific trends might exist for this family of chips. Manchesters simply weren't favored amongst the enthusiast set.









A valid generalization about Manchesters, however, is that they require comparatively more VCore to sustain a similar overclock compared to their Denmark/Toledo cousins. Their maximum potential speeds are also a little short of the Denmark/Toledo chips; you're doing great if you manage to squeeze anything much above 2.7GHz with a Manchester from any stepping.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jrs*


Also to dig up an old problem my DFI board will not go past 333 fsb. It used to be Burn's(mod/director here). He had the same wall even with a low multiplier. I'm just wondering if anyone had new ideas to get it up there. My opteron can definitely go higher....


Well, it's certainly possible that 333MHz is the board's maximum on its HTT Clock ("FSB"). You can try increasing the chipset voltage incrementally to see if this can gain you more MHz.

One thing to test is if this is a so-called "FSB Hole." Try a HTT Clock speed a bit higher than 333MHz (say, 350MHz) to test; sometimes there is a range of frequencies where the board will not POST, but going above this range will restore the board's ability to do so. My opinion, though, is that 333MHz might be it's max.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jrs*


My friend also gave me some ram. Crucial ballistix bl6464z402.16tgy. I found somewhere on here that they clock pretty high with loose timings. (Micron B5 someone said) not sure really was hoping someone could verify.


Crucials Ballistix do have a great reputation for being able to run high clock speeds, but at the expense of tighter timings. I've yet to play with my set of Ballistix, unfortunately, so I can't verify more than repeating consensus reports.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Jeez, I'm gone for 24 hours and all of a sudden I'm five pages behind...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


And just to confirm what has already been said, yes. My avatar is from VGC, been reading those comics for a couple of years now.










That's what I thought it was, but I didn't remember that particular comic.









Blitz, did you ever take me off the S939 roster as active? I am unfortunately not running any S939 rigs at the moment, although the Opty 148 rig will be alive at some point in the near future...


----------



## thlnk3r

Welcome Jrs to the club!

I hope your stay is enjoyable


----------



## pez

So blitz, you get yoru 4870x2? Spill.


----------



## Xyro TR1

*(6:13:34 PM) Blitz6804 (GTalk):* brb
*(6:13:40 PM) Blitz6804 (GTalk):* finishing install of HD4870x2

Sometime later...

*(6:30:26 PM) Xyro TR1 (GTalk):* Functional??
*(6:30:57 PM) Blitz6804 (GTalk):* no
*(6:30:58 PM) Blitz6804 (GTalk):* orgasmic

*(6:39:44 PM) Blitz6804 (GTalk):* is about to try Crysis

No word yet. =D Makes me want to upgrade! =P


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jrs*


I think it's about time I joined this group

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=494950
running @1.25v right now

My buddy just gave me his 939 stuff too. So I have:
3000+ @2.6 1.53v LBBLE 0525EPMW (naked)
OPTY 165 CCBBE 0617FPMW shown above (Thanks tankguys)
3800+ x2 LDBFE 0622 EPMW
DFI Lanparty Ultra-D
MSI K8n-neo4 SLI
Some ECS matx board

Also to dig up an old problem my DFI board will not go past 333 fsb. It used to be Burn's(mod/director here). He had the same wall even with a low multiplier. I'm just wondering if anyone had new ideas to get it up there. My opteron can definitely go higher....

~jrs



JRS, welcome









I have a similar board to yours DFI ultra d/g, Ive gotten mine up to 400 "FSB". I did have to raise the NB voltage 1 step. Also, Ive found that single cores seem to be MUCH more stable at a higher reference clock than dual cores. This is just my opinion though. I have 3 boards, so one week when I have some time Ill do a comparison using my 3500+ and one of my opty's.

Also, when you were testing the limit what was your ram divider set at?


----------



## jrs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


JRS, welcome









I have a similar board to yours DFI ultra d/g, Ive gotten mine up to 400 "FSB". I did have to raise the NB voltage 1 step. Also, Ive found that single cores seem to be MUCH more stable at a higher reference clock than dual cores. This is just my opinion though. I have 3 boards, so one week when I have some time Ill do a comparison using my 3500+ and one of my opty's.

Also, when you were testing the limit what was your ram divider set at?


 It was a while ago but I am pretty sure I set the divider at 1:2 (ddr200 @ stock speeds). The ram clock was well within its limits. I think I primed at 350x9 for about 20 min before it failed. Of course I tried lower but anything over 333 just didn't want to work..(....334). The northbridge voltage was up to 1.7 I believe maybe even 1.8 at one point just to see if it would help. At the moment I can't pull any high clocks(CPU wise). For some reason I am idling at 34 C and loading at 42C......undervolted with a BT. I had the watercooling on it before. I think I might make the opty naked soon though...so my temps should get much better.

~jrs


----------



## BlackOmega

That seems more like a CPU limitation. Lower your multiplier some more drop RAM divider all the way down and see how high you can get the board to post.

Also, what are you using to read your temps? If I could get 42*c under full load Id be super happy. Download coretemp and run that. Tell me what your load temps are then.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jrs*


I think I might make the opty naked soon though...so my temps should get much better.~jrs


jrs: I don't know if you tried lapping the opty yet. May I suggest that first if you have not already done so. If you have already lapped it then NVM. I have a 3500+ that I run naked and honestly I wish I had never done it. I did not see a big enough improvement for all the work and risk involved. It's prolly just me though but you also you have to have a good cpu heatsink or cut away at your surrounding socket. After I removed the IHS i realized that I could no longer use the stock hsf unles I cut on the mobo socket. That is not an option for me as some day I may want to sell this for prime $$$ and a hacked socket will not bring prime $$$


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
jrs: I don't know if you tried lapping the opty yet. May I suggest that first if you have not already done so. If you have already lapped it then NVM. I have a 3500+ that I run naked and honestly I wish I had never done it. I did not see a big enough improvement for all the work and risk involved. It's prolly just me though but you also you have to have a good cpu heatsink or cut away at your surrounding socket. After I removed the IHS i realized that I could no longer use the stock hsf unles I cut on the mobo socket. That is not an option for me as some day I may want to sell this for prime $$$ and a hacked socket will not bring prime $$$









I did the same thing with my 3500+, Im using an aftermarket cooler that comes with its own bracket. I didnt feel bad one bit by sanding the feet down to make contact. And I have the stock retaining bracket, I dont think Ill ever alter those.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I did the same thing with my 3500+, Im using an aftermarket cooler that comes with its own bracket. I didnt feel bad one bit by sanding the feet down to make contact. And I have the stock retaining bracket, I dont think Ill ever alter those.

My biggest thing was I only had the stock hsf or use one of my 2 zalman 9700's. well the latter it was and I ended up using the 3500+ hsf on a am2 5400+ cpu and the dang thing got stuck to the cpu and eded pulling the cpu out of the socket with the hsf. LOL that was one I'll nvr forget. I just don't like using electrical tape to cover the surraonding IC's on the cpu's circuit board. Additionally I removed the zalman 9700 heatsink to put it back on another board for testing and I noticed the black electrical tape that I was using was almost squished away from one or more of the IC's and that scared me so I have not used it since just waiting to figure something else out. Maybe I'll try to reinstall the IHS. LOL like it will ever be the same agian. maybe It will be better. the TIM's have improved since that proc was built maybe it will lower temps a little with some zalman TIM or other stuff... I da know I just think it was a learning experiance for the most part and a little dance with the devil to see if I could come out unscathed with a working cpu...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well sorta good news here guys.

My PSU no longer randomly catches fire. I'm borrowing a friend's Logisys 450w PSU on my sig rig below. It functions without a fire hazard, so I'm good for now







.

I should know REALLY soon as to what all is dead from my main rig. (Crosses fingers) I hope its just the PSU.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Well sorta good news here guys.

My PSU no longer randomly catches fire. I'm borrowing a friend's Logisys 450w PSU on my sig rig below. It functions without a fire hazard, so I'm good for now







.

I should know REALLY soon as to what all is dead from my main rig. (Crosses fingers) I hope its just the PSU.

Group prayer guy's. Hope it lived. Good luck.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Well sorta good news here guys.

My PSU no longer randomly catches fire. I'm borrowing a friend's Logisys 450w PSU on my sig rig below. It functions without a fire hazard, so I'm good for now







.

I should know REALLY soon as to what all is dead from my main rig. (Crosses fingers) I hope its just the PSU.


Hope you dont mind Pio but I had to sig part of this


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hope you dont mind Pio but I had to sig part of this










Dear god, I'm going to get famous around OCN, just by how many people sig me. Lol, that's the FOURTH thing I've said that's been sigged now







.

And no, I don't mind







.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I should know REALLY soon as to what all is dead from my main rig. (Crosses fingers) I hope its just the PSU.


Pio, I have a strong feeling your PSU was the only thing that was damaged (I'm hoping). How soon will we find out? Are you running stability testers to see if anything fails? How about memtest?

Good luck buddy


----------



## Blitz6804

Pio lacks the power supply needed to test anything.

Unless Froggy lets him borrow hers...

*Dies while holding breath.*


----------



## BlackOmega

Wow shes really posesive over her rig isnt she?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pio, I have a strong feeling your PSU was the only thing that was damaged (I'm hoping). How soon will we find out? Are you running stability testers to see if anything fails? How about memtest?

Good luck buddy


I will find out as soon as I get a strong enough PSU to power up my rig. I'm not going to risk this Logysis on my rig. This PSU doesn't belong to me, I don't want to screw it up. I'm working on a deal currently for a pretty darn good PSU







.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Pio lacks the power supply needed to test anything.

Unless Froggy lets him borrow hers...

*Dies while holding breath.*


Yeah, that won't happen. She got pissed at me today because I used her rig to listen to music while I cleaned HER part of the house, lol.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Wow shes really posesive over her rig isnt she?


See above







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Wow shes really posesive over her rig isnt she?


LOL well that's one way to keep her rig running...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


LOL well that's one way to keep her rig running...










Shutup you!







.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


LOL well that's one way to keep her rig running...


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Shutup you!







.


just teasing. No harm meant by it. Sorry if affended.


----------



## pez

LOL, pio's whipped. Pio, I vow to assist in finding you a good deal on a PSU. What's your budget at now?


----------



## Blitz6804

It must be from Newegg. As of yesterday, the budget was $84. That is, the cost with shipping and tax must be $84 or lower.


----------



## pez

Pio, you get charged tax from newegg?


----------



## pez

Well as of now, the EA650 is still the best quality/performance to dollar ratio. $99 shipped. I'm looking fo rmore though







.

EDIT: Corsair 650 is also $100 shipped.

Another edit: Fanless, SLI certified, 42 on the 12V

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817371002

And the OCZ GameXStream 600W

This ones a gem, 80 plus, sli certified
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817702008


----------



## Blitz6804

Washington? He does not. The zip code (for shipping info) is 98909.


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz are you the LNO for Pioneer now









Pio, my vote for a new PSU goes towards the Corsair 550VX. It holds it's value quite well and the efficiency ratings under load are within 80%. This particular PSU is built by Channel Well Technology so the quality is excellent. Here is a full review of that unit: http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php...=Story&reid=62. If you can afford the extra $20 then I would pick this one up. The BFG model that Pez linked to is also a great power supply.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, I am about three hours later in the day then he. I can relay what we discussed before I went to bed and before he woke up in his stead. Wait until he sees my liaison fee...

As to my HD 4870x2: it scored lower than my HD 3850s did in 3DMark06. This is likely because I am running a non-Futuremark approved driver. (CCC 8.12 Dual-core hotfix.) It gets better FPS than regular CCC 8.12 in most games and supposedly removes a crash that can occur with a dual-core CPU and a 48xx card. I am in the process of trying to clock the CPU higher to compensate. Hopefully, when CCC 9.1 comes out, the HD 4870x2 will really shine.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Blitz, I'm most intrigued about this supposed crash issue with a dual-core CPU and a 48xx card. Would you happen to have a link? (Not a challenge to you, mind you; I've been getting some interesting stuff happen with my machine - random shutdowns/crashes - that I strongly believe is related to the graphics driver. No solid information, just a hunch on my part.)


----------



## Blitz6804

Ask, and ye shall receive. Unfortunately, you will be unaffected by it; this hotfix is Vista only. HOWEVER, the astute will notice that Catalyst 9.1 is out for XP 64-bit as of this morning. (It is also out for Vista 64-bit. I would suppose this means it is out for everyone!)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Many thanks, Blitz.







Will read shortly.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Blitz:
Thank you for discussing my price and PSU stuff, that we discussed last night. Saves me the hassle of multi-quoting these guys and saying the same thing







.

My update:
I'm going to try it. I just tried my 8800GT out with this P4. All is going well so far. Even under load, the 12v only drops to 11.65v. Its safe enough for a few more days, or weeks tops. So I'm going to try my main rig's board and stuff out. I'm hoping Windows 7 will forgive me again, especially since it was originally installed on that motherboard. So I'll give it a try out.

But!
I want to reseat my HSF first. Does anybody happen to know where I can find that guide for HDT heatsinks?


----------



## Blitz6804

This may be what you wanted.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


My update:
All is going well so far. Even under load, the 12v only drops to 11.65v. Its safe enough for a few more days, or weeks tops. So I'm going to try my main rig's board and stuff out. I'm hoping Windows 7 will forgive me again, especially since it was originally installed on that motherboard. So I'll give it a try out.


Pio, are you getting that 12volt rating with software/BIOS or a multimeter? With the Windows 7 beta, I believe you can install it three times with that one key. I could be wrong but all of us at work were able to get a max of three installs with one key.

Good luck


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pio, are you getting that 12volt rating with software/BIOS or a multimeter? With the Windows 7 beta, I believe you can install it three times with that one key. I could be wrong but all of us at work were able to get a max of three installs with one key.

Good luck


I'm getting that reading via Everest Ultimate (has been flawless for me so far).

And guys....

MY MACHINE IS ALIVE!!!!!


































































I'm on it right now!!! I reseated my cooler with that guide Blitz posted. Made sure ALL connections were firm, and it booted right up! This is WITH the 8800GT mind you! Load temperatures dropped from 68-72*C down to 55*C with this new application of thermal grease, and of course using the proper method.

I'm not 100% sure how stable I am at these clocks. I'm still on my 3.0GHz run (I really wanted that back). I'm not all that worried about stability, as everything appears to be working fine. However I will of course stress test after I get a half decent PSU.

Oh my god though....this has made all my bad luck fade away







.


----------



## Blitz6804

*Pats on the back.* I told you she would come back to you. Congrats on her not being dead! (Will you go easy on her this time? No more 3.27 GHz suicides?)

In other news: 3DMark is starting to annoy me. I fiddled with some clocks. According to Everest Ultimate, all memory bandwidths have increased. All CPU bandwidths (L1 and L2 caches) have increased. Latencies are down across the board. The end result? I am down 2% performance in 3DMark. WHAT!? I am curious if any more VCore would help the situation. One MHz higher on the HTT causes 3DMark to fail mid-run, so that might be it.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I'm getting that reading via Everest Ultimate (has been flawless for me so far).

I'm on it right now!!! I reseated my cooler with that guide Blitz posted. Made sure ALL connections were firm, and it booted right up! This is WITH the 8800GT mind you! Load temperatures dropped from 68-72*C down to 55*C with this new application of thermal grease, and of course using the proper method.


Pioneer, that is good to here









Are you able to re-verify with a multimeter that 11.65 volts is accurate? That is extremely low. Software isn't entirely accurate so wouldn't trust that to much. Everest reports 11.78 volts for my 550VX but a multimeter reports slightly over 12volts









Glad it's all working!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pioneer, that is good to here









Are you able to re-verify with a multimeter that 11.65 volts is accurate? That is extremely low. Software isn't entirely accurate so wouldn't trust that to much. Everest reports 11.78 volts for my 550VX but a multimeter reports slightly over 12volts









Glad it's all working!


I'm not even worried about it. I'm sure Everest is getting as close as I'll ever see. I have a multi-meter, but I broke off one of the leads







.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
In other news: 3DMark is starting to annoy me. I fiddled with some clocks. According to Everest Ultimate, all memory bandwidths have increased. All CPU bandwidths (L1 and L2 caches) have increased. Latencies are down across the board. The end result? I am down 2% performance in 3DMark. WHAT!? I am curious if any more VCore would help the situation. One MHz higher on the HTT causes 3DMark to fail mid-run, so that might be it.

Blitz, did you run multiple passes for comparison? Are any of the games you play unplayable now? That's probably the most important. 3DMark06 shouldn't be the end result for everything.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I have a multi-meter, but I broke off one of the leads







.

Pio, I don't even want know how that happened


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz, did you run multiple passes for comparison? Are any of the games you play unplayable now? That's probably the most important. 3DMark06 shouldn't be the end result for everything.

*Pio, I don't even want know how that happened







*

Car stereo work







. Evidentally a 200 pound speaker box sitting on top of a cheap Radio Shack lead = bad for the lead. Go figure


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
MY MACHINE IS ALIVE!!!!!

Great news pio!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 

MY MACHINE IS ALIVE!!!!!







































































.

That's great news... Good job.


----------



## Jacka

Woohoo!

No need to keep a fire extinguisher on standby any more, eh?


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Yeah, that won't happen. She got pissed at me today because I used her rig to listen to music while I cleaned HER part of the house, lol.


haha ouch.

congrats on getting the rig up and running again!


----------



## Pest

Can't let that A8N32 die just yet! There are only a few of us left.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pest*


Can't let that A8N32 die just yet! There are only a few of us left.


I'm looking for one so maybe someday soon there will be one more.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Grats, Pio!! It's always great when things suddenly start working well!


----------



## pez

Pio, I still want that board. I'll drive to Washington to take it







. Did you look at the BFG I posted Pio? It's your greatest deal as of now...you just need like 3 more bucks to satisfy shipping, and even then you have that 25 or 35 dollar back from newegg and it has a 20 dollar MIR







.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Pio, I still want that board. I'll drive to Washington to take it







. Did you look at the BFG I posted Pio? It's your greatest deal as of now...you just need like 3 more bucks to satisfy shipping, and even then you have that 25 or 35 dollar back from newegg and it has a 20 dollar MIR







.

I dunno....I've heard mixed reviews about BFG PSU's.

Any rate, looks like I'll be running an Antec TruePower 650w PSU







.


----------



## jrs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
That seems more like a CPU limitation. Lower your multiplier some more drop RAM divider all the way down and see how high you can get the board to post.

Also, what are you using to read your temps? If I could get 42*c under full load Id be super happy. Download coretemp and run that. Tell me what your load temps are then.

Yeah I have core temp which is why I say 42C is high(hmm not 42....)
Core temp:47, 58
Smart Guardian:48
...under dual stress prime(hmm thats...not good







) I think I need to get some airflow in my case...

As for chip limitations. I guess it is possible, but burn had a few different chips in here and I don't think he ever got stable over 333 even with a low multiplier. When I bought it he tried running 350x6 I think it was and it didn't finish super PI 8M. I have booted my opteron at 350 x 9 (got into windows and stressed for about 30 min before it failed). I guess I just need to try some serious experimenting. Maybe put my 3000+ in here and lower the multiplier to see whats up. Under water at the 350 and about 1.5 vcore?.......my core temps were under 55, but they were still different by about 10C.

Looking at Smartguardian reminded me of how how my PWM IC gets.....over 60C it turns red. I thin I looked it up and found that that is typical?

~jrs


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I dunno....I've heard mixed reviews about BFG PSU's.

Any rate, looks like I'll be running an Antec TruePower 650w PSU







.


Pio, Does this look any good???

OCZ GameXStream 700w (standard fan or optional externally controlled 
fan) - $60

Or how about Corsair HX620w - $90


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jrs*


Yeah I have core temp which is why I say 42C is high(hmm not 42....) 
Core temp:47, 58
Smart Guardian:48
...under dual stress prime(hmm thats...not good







) I think I need to get some airflow in my case...

Looking at Smartguardian reminded me of how how my PWM IC gets.....over 60C it turns red. I thin I looked it up and found that that is typical?


Jrs, at full load 47/58 looks about right for a BT. Granted it could be lower if the case airflow was improved. My PWM at full load was around 48C with a 26C room ambient. Check for dead spots in your case and make sure those areas are getting proper airflow. I don't think there is anything to worry about other then your PWM. How much Vcore were you running with those full load temps?

Good luck


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Pio, Does this look any good???

OCZ GameXStream 700w (standard fan or optional externally controlled 
fan) - $60

Or how about Corsair HX620w - $90



I already bought a Antec TruePower 650w....really good price too







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I already bought a Antec TruePower 650w....really good price too







.


right on man.







I was just bored and thought that I would share a couple of good deals w/u. how long b4 you get the new psu?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


right on man.







I was just bored and thought that I would share a couple of good deals w/u. how long b4 you get the new psu?


Hopefully sometime next week with any luck. Early the following week if not. Next step is to build my tech rack







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Hopefully sometime next week with any luck. Early the following week if not. Next step is to build my tech rack







.


sounds like one project I have that I never finished. I have a antique pool table in the garage that needs to be refinished and felted and pocketed but in the mean time it's a work table for garage and a messy one at that. I have not done any work out there for a couple of months now with the cold wether and all I kind of stay inside like a homebody.







good luck with that psu and tech rack.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 

MY MACHINE IS ALIVE!!!!!














Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 

In other news: 3DMark is starting to annoy me. I fiddled with some clocks. According to Everest Ultimate, all memory bandwidths have increased. All CPU bandwidths (L1 and L2 caches) have increased. Latencies are down across the board. The end result? I am down 2% performance in 3DMark. WHAT!? I am curious if any more VCore would help the situation. One MHz higher on the HTT causes 3DMark to fail mid-run, so that might be it.

3dmark just sucks. It was wierd with my GSO's, the more I overclocked them the lower my score got.







Made no sense to me. Yet in real world performance my framerates went up considerably, especially in crysis. By OCing the card I managed to increase my fps by almost 10fps. Yet it lowered my 3dmark score by almost 1000 points. At that point I decided 3dmark just like AS5= :turd: ICD7 FTW!









Quote:


Originally Posted by *jrs* 
Yeah I have core temp which is why I say 42C is high(hmm not 42....)
Core temp:47, 58
Smart Guardian:48
...under dual stress prime(hmm thats...not good








) I think I need to get some airflow in my case...

As for chip limitations. I guess it is possible, but burn had a few different chips in here and I don't think he ever got stable over 333 even with a low multiplier. When I bought it he tried running 350x6 I think it was and it didn't finish super PI 8M. I have booted my opteron at 350 x 9 (got into windows and stressed for about 30 min before it failed). I guess I just need to try some serious experimenting. Maybe put my 3000+ in here and lower the multiplier to see whats up. Under water at the 350 and about 1.5 vcore?.......my core temps were under 55, but they were still different by about 10C.

Looking at Smartguardian reminded me of how how my PWM IC gets.....over 60C it turns red. I thin I looked it up and found that that is typical?

~jrs

Wow if your PWM IC really gets that hot Id say you definitely need some more airflow. I dont think mine get over 38*C honestly. And the guy I bought it from put a thmerltake all aluminum passive cooler on the NB and even that doesnt go above 40*.

As for the reference clock, the way I did mine was every time I upped the clock I tried to keep my ram around 200mhz. I checked it every time I booted in to windows. And I got i all the way up to 400 stable. At that point I think ram instability caused failures as the Hyperx I have for some reason, really doesnt like to go over 200mhz. I also starting to wonder if smaller ram sticks lead to more stable reference clock speeds. I read an article a long while back where the OCers were using 2 256 hi performance ram sticks to achieve some fairly impressive numbers.

At any rate, Id say try the 3000+, Im betting with minor voltage increases that youll be able to get er fairly high. Good luck


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
sounds like one project I have that I never finished. I have a antique pool table in the garage that needs to be refinished and felted and pocketed but in the mean time it's a work table for garage and a messy one at that. I have not done any work out there for a couple of months now with the cold wether and all I kind of stay inside like a homebody.







good luck with that psu and tech rack.

ROTFL! My pool table is the same! There is a dissembled bike on there now, Trying to teach my nephew how to correctly use tools!

Before I got injured I was one of the best pool players in my state!







Man I miss that 14 years of pool tourneys was some of the most fun I had in life.


----------



## pez

Ahhh, my other 2 gigs of RAM will be here today...me = excited. I'm sure my OS will be happy too.


----------



## pez

Oh yes, all 4 gigs running at DDR500:


----------



## jrs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Jrs, at full load 47/58 looks about right for a BT. Granted it could be lower if the case airflow was improved. My PWM at full load was around 48C with a 26C room ambient. Check for dead spots in your case and make sure those areas are getting proper airflow. I don't think there is anything to worry about other then your PWM. How much Vcore were you running with those full load temps?

Good luck









That's undervolted to 1.25......so those temps are umm yeah....sucking ahah. I don't remember them being that bad in the past. In any case my case air flow is very bad







.

Hmm my friend gave me his ASROCK Dual-sata2 today







......and my power supply so I can put some scrap systems together and test sometime. I have a lot of homework and scholarship things to do this weekend though









I'll keep you guys updated

~jrs

edit: Chipset is running kinda warm to with an evercool VC-RE (42C at idle) I had a thermalright Hr-05 on it but even with a fan blowing through it the evercool has the same temps
ambients are 22-23 C


----------



## HothBase

Nice one, pez


----------



## Blitz6804

Outstanding Pez! Not only do you have 4 GB running at DDR 500 (a hard feat to say the least) but it is doing it while still being 200:200! I shudder to think what your bandwidth will be; you likely rival most AM2 rigs!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


ROTFL! My pool table is the same! There is a dissembled bike on there now, Trying to teach my nephew how to correctly use tools!

Before I got injured I was one of the best pool players in my state!







Man I miss that 14 years of pool tourneys was some of the most fun I had in life.


Sounds like you have some good memories. Now if I could only get some good memories for my rigs...









I bought the table for $300 and had planned on redoing it when I bought a house. it's an orignal AE smidt or however it's spelled. So any way the house fell through along with everything else in my life and now it sits in limbo with everything else. In the mean time I just have pc's to fiddle fart around with.


----------



## Blitz6804

For public notice:

There has been a correction in Post 2 of the contest thread. There was a typo regards prizes that has now been fixed.


----------



## pez

"And here...we...go"


----------



## Mr Pink57

Still have a Opty 146 in my Lan rig goes easy to 2.9ghz on stock volts with proper ram.

pink


----------



## pioneerisloud

Any audio guru's in here (cough Joe cough)?

I need some advice on a replacement subwoofer, thread here.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jrs* 
That's undervolted to 1.25......so those temps are umm yeah....sucking ahah. I don't remember them being that bad in the past. In any case my case air flow is very bad

edit: Chipset is running kinda warm to with an evercool VC-RE (42C at idle) I had a thermalright Hr-05 on it but even with a fan blowing through it the evercool has the same temps
ambients are 22-23 C

Jrs, did you try remounting the BT? Is the cooler lapped? Check the base surface of the cooler and make sure it doesn't have any severe scratches or dings. If the base is also convex/concave then that could also cause the heatsink to not perform adequately. The BT doesn't exactly have the best finish from the factory. If you would like more information about lapping have a look at this guide: http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...ltake-big.html.

What is the airflow currently like in your case? in regards to your chipset, with a 26C room ambient, I usually get around 38C-40C with a Thermalright HR-05. I don't think 42C is anything to worry about. The nForce 4 chipset does get warm but can handle temps passed 70C.

Good luck


----------



## Name Change

Got bored lolz, decided to play with Cpu a little and stuff.
Able to get cpu stable at 2700mhz with only 1.280v, also playing with ram up to 340 bus speed. Not sure where it will top out prolly little more. Seems quicker with lower voltage lolz. odd.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


So any way the house fell through along with everything else in my life and now it sits in limbo with everything else.










I lost one myself, Suux big time. Sorry to hear that buddy. On the bright side The things you own end up owning you!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mr Pink57*


Still have a Opty 146 in my Lan rig goes easy to 2.9ghz on stock volts with proper ram.

pink


Nice!!!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Name Change*


Got bored lolz, decided to play with Cpu a little and stuff.
Able to get cpu stable at 2700mhz with only 1.280v,


----------



## jrs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Jrs, did you try remounting the BT? Is the cooler lapped? Check the base surface of the cooler and make sure it doesn't have any severe scratches or dings. If the base is also convex/concave then that could also cause the heatsink to not perform adequately. The BT doesn't exactly have the best finish from the factory. If you would like more information about lapping have a look at this guide: http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...ltake-big.html.

What is the airflow currently like in your case? in regards to your chipset, with a 26C room ambient, I usually get around 38C-40C with a Thermalright HR-05. I don't think 42C is anything to worry about. The nForce 4 chipset does get warm but can handle temps passed 70C.

Good luck









Yeah I know all about lapping and how bad the BT finish is suppose to be.....I never took the dive though (maybe I will soon). If i put a razor blade on it, the BT is pretty flat and there aren't any major imperfections. However, the could be a combined effect (both concave, or both convex), then it could be a serious problem.

Airflow as I said sucks. I have and 80mm in the front an 80mm in the back, and my PSU fan(which I can;t even hear running







). I have the side of my case off a lot. I would really like to get some 120's on here, but there isn't room except on the side panel. Basically....I'm lazy. Since I am in my senior year maybe I'll be able to get to this stuff soon.

~jrs

edit: I just plugged some stuff into my MSI board. My old 6600gt, the 3800 x2, and a stick of ram. When I flip the power supply on...the motherboard turns on as well without me shorting the two pins for the power switch. Why would that happen?


----------



## Blitz6804

Update on the contest.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jrs*


edit: I just plugged some stuff into my MSI board. My old 6600gt, the 3800 x2, and a stick of ram. When I flip the power supply on...the motherboard turns on as well without me shorting the two pins for the power switch. Why would that happen?


Jrs, this is some what of a normal occurrence with some motherboards but it may be target towards specific power supplies as well. This actually happens to me at home and at work. It is probably nothing to serious to worry about. Just make sure before flipping that switch to the "on" position that you have everything ready to go (ie. heatsink(s) mounted, nothing blocking a fan blade ect).

Have you used this MSI board in the past? I wonder if clearing the CMOS would prevent this from happening again? It's a long shot but worth a try.

Good luck


----------



## jrs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Have you used this MSI board in the past? I wonder if clearing the CMOS would prevent this from happening again? It's a long shot but worth a try.

Good luck










I have used it before. This has never happened. I guess I am not sure if the 3800 is good. I was going o use my 3000+ but i popped the top and i spent a while sanding a bracket down, but i can't sand the backplate posts on the MSI (metal). It is possible that the mobo is dead. I gave it to my buddy and it was working for me, but he said it didn't work when he tired it. As for the PSU, I recently gave it to another friend in working condition and it worked for him so I don't think its the problem here.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jrs*


I have used it before. This has never happened. I guess I am not sure if the 3800 is good. I was going o use my 3000+ but i popped the top and i spent a while sanding a bracket down, but i can't sand the backplate posts on the MSI (metal). It is possible that the mobo is dead. I gave it to my buddy and it was working for me, but he said it didn't work when he tired it. As for the PSU, I recently gave it to another friend in working condition and it worked for him so I don't think its the problem here.


Jrs, are you still in possession of the 3800+? Have you tried testing it on your DFI Ultra-D? This would help eliminate some questions about the processor being good or bad.

Perhaps your buddies machine is shorting somewhere. Have him remove everything out of the case and try starting the board that way. Make sure to place everything on a non-static surface. Make sure only the essentials are plugged in such as one stick of memory, processor, psu and video card. Disconnect all other cables, optical drives, hard drives, card readers ect. I've had a few shorts before and usually it's due to a standoff not being screwed in all the way.

Good luck


----------



## jrs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Jrs, are you still in possession of the 3800+? Have you tried testing it on your DFI Ultra-D? This would help eliminate some questions about the processor being good or bad.

Perhaps your buddies machine is shorting somewhere. Have him remove everything out of the case and try starting the board that way. Make sure to place everything on a non-static surface. Make sure only the essentials are plugged in such as one stick of memory, processor, psu and video card. Disconnect all other cables, optical drives, hard drives, card readers ect. I've had a few shorts before and usually it's due to a standoff not being screwed in all the way.

Good luck

Hmm I have the board right now (sorry for any confusion). I put the 3800 x2 in it and it had the described symptoms. I switched the ram, I don't have any opticals hooked up, i put my 3000 in it without a heatsink, I turned the PSU on without a processor. The result is always the same the motherboard powers up all the fans. I am running it on its anti-static bag.

I switched over to the asorck, which doesn't seem to work either. I need to line up my parts some weekend including the ones in this rig and figure out everything. I mean I guess I don't really know if the 3000 works either (I haven't tried it since I took the IHS off)...I know I didn't get the knife in too far though so it should be good. I have too many variables must get the sig rig involved.

Thanks for the help so far

~jrs


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Jrs, are you still in possession of the 3800+? Have you tried testing it on your DFI Ultra-D? This would help eliminate some questions about the processor being good or bad.

Good luck


 Id have to agree. Test one part at a time on a known good system. Then you can, with relative certainty, narrow down the problem parts. Otherwise, youll just be guessing at the issue.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jrs* 
Hmm I have the board right now (sorry for any confusion). I put the 3800 x2 in it and it had the described symptoms. I switched the ram, I don't have any opticals hooked up, i put my 3000 in it without a heatsink, I turned the PSU on without a processor. The result is always the same the motherboard powers up all the fans. I am running it on its anti-static bag.

Jrs, just to clear things up (because I'm a tad confused) are you having problems with the MSI motherboard or the processor not working? Have you tried testing anything in your DFI Ultra-D board?

Sorry for the confusion

Good luck


----------



## jrs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Jrs, just to clear things up (because I'm a tad confused) are you having problems with the MSI motherboard or the processor not working? Have you tried testing anything in your DFI Ultra-D board?

Sorry for the confusion

Good luck

At this point I think there is problem with both the MSI board and the processor I am using. I need to get my DFI into the mix for testing the processors. Then, knowing what works, I can narrow it down. Hopefully I can do this next weekend when I have some more free time. I have only put the crucial ballistix ram into my DFI so far. I'll keep you guys updated and I'll probably be back with more questions.

Thanks

~jrs


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jrs* 
At this point I think there is problem with both the MSI board and the processor I am using. I need to get my DFI into the mix for testing the processors. Then, knowing what works, I can narrow it down. Hopefully I can do this next weekend when I have some more free time. I have only put the crucial ballistix ram into my DFI so far. I'll keep you guys updated and I'll probably be back with more questions.

Thanks

~jrs

Jrs that sounds like a headache on the horizon.

To all, I'm wondering if you have a mobo go bad and it in turn causes a cpu to go bad, would it be safe to use the bad cpu in a known good mobo. I was under the impression that a bad piece of hardware can cause other componants to fail. Example you put a bad cpu in a good mobo and then power it on. could the cpu cause dmg to the mobo?


----------



## Blitz6804

I know from experience a bad CPU can kill a good motherboard. Ask my Abit for proof.


----------



## N2Gaming

that's what I thought. Thanks Blitz


----------



## jrs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I know from experience a bad CPU can kill a good motherboard. Ask my Abit for proof.


ughh but but noooooo. Haha...hmmm I hope I don't kill my DFI. My friend's x2 3800+ might have been what killed my MSI hmm.......


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jrs*


ughh but but noooooo. Haha...hmmm I hope I don't kill my DFI. My friend's x2 3800+ might have been what killed my MSI hmm.......










I'll cross two fingers for you, good luck









N2G


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jrs* 
At this point I think there is problem with both the MSI board and the processor I am using. I need to get my DFI into the mix for testing the processors. Then, knowing what works, I can narrow it down. Hopefully I can do this next weekend when I have some more free time. I have only put the crucial ballistix ram into my DFI so far. I'll keep you guys updated and I'll probably be back with more questions.

Jrs, thanks for clearing that up. Definitely let us know when you find out. We'll be here if you need assistance









Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I know from experience a bad CPU can kill a good motherboard. Ask my Abit for proof.

Blitz, when did this happen? How did the processor become bad?

Good luck


----------



## timxirish

Awsome news in the world of tim and overclocking: My secondary (Lanbox) rig is getting an Opteron 165! (and it's lapped!)









Pending a transaction with lemans81 and just made my payment. If all goes well, no more single cores for me!









Can't wait to see what I can pull off with my Tforce board.. Apparently it's the best matx overclocker socket 939 has seen.. Now I just need to upgrade the video card and the RAM.. and probably in that order too. It's currently running the Windows 7 beta, and I must say.. Microsoft has really impressed me so far.

I never did completely finish finding my RAM limits for my main machine, but tomorrow I plan on going at it again... Memtest likes to take it's sweet time going through one full pass though..


----------



## pez

Currently "6 hours 28 minutes 3 seconds" stable w/ 2.5Ghz and DDR500. I remember when I'd run orthos and my computer would be un-usable, but now w/ 4 gigs, it's perfectly fine







. Load temps are 55-50.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Currently "6 hours 28 minutes 3 seconds" stable w/ 2.5Ghz and DDR500. I remember when I'd run orthos and my computer would be un-usable, but now w/ 4 gigs, it's perfectly fine







. Load temps are 55-50.













































: cheers:


----------



## Blitz6804

*Shakes self awake and starts brewing some coffee.*

Some power nap. I went to take a nap at 1700h last night. (1400h PST.) I just woke up some twenty minutes ago. So... that is a 17-hour nap for those of you paying attention. What the heck!? In all fairness, it is the first decent sleep I have had since coming back.

I drove home Wednesday the 21st. Let us see how I have done:

Wednesday: No sleep
Thursday: About 2 hours
Friday: About 3 hours
Saturday: About 80 minutes
Sunday: No sleep
Monday: About 3 hours
Tuesday: About 2 hours
Wednesday: About an hour
Thursday: About 90 minutes
Friday: No sleep
Saturday: About 17 hours

I would say I am almost caught up!


----------



## pez

I'm gonna let it get to 12 hours stable...It's currently at "10 hours 7 minutes 57 seconds".


----------



## razr7

i used to have a 300+ but i threw it away for some reason


----------



## Blitz6804

Do you have screenshots from when you used to run it? Either way, I could add you as a nostalgic member if you miss it and wish to contribute your experiences here.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *razr7*


i used to have a 300+ but i threw it away for some reason


I would probably throgh it out to if it was a 300+


----------



## Blitz6804

It was obviously a 3000+, but with a typo. That could be a Newcastle 9x 1.500 V, a Winchester 9x 1.400 V, or Venice 9x 1.350 V. (Unless it was actually a Skt 754.)


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


It was obviously a 3000+, but with a typo. That could be a Newcastle 9x 1.500 V, a Winchester 9x 1.400 V, or Venice 9x 1.350 V. (Unless it was actually a Skt 754.)
























I hope it was a 3000+ Cause I never heard of a 300+ socket 754.


----------



## pez

So, I got lazy and just went with 10 hours/almost 11.

2.55GHz wasn't stable, but no worries as I see no hit in performance.

And BTW, my voltages are not at 1.35, or 1.344 as they coretemp and CPU-z show, it's at 1.425 in BIOS.


----------



## Pest

Nice Pez. How's the 4gb treating you? See much improvement?


----------



## Blitz6804

Pez: Believe it or not, you actually ARE at 1.344 V. Coretemp's VID is what your stock voltage is. That is, you should be running 1.350 V through it to do the rated 10x200. CPU-Z's voltage is the actual voltage going through the processor. If you have it set in the BIOS to do 1.420 V, then your BIOS undervolts something fierce. My DFI board also undervolts. When set to 1.375 V in the BIOS, my CPU actually gets 1.360 V. Most Asus boards overvolt. My Abit overvolted. My Gigabyte undervolted. It happens.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pest*


Nice Pez. How's the 4gb treating you? See much improvement?


Yes, very very much. Like I said with dual core CPU's. I'll never go back to just 2 gigs of RAM, just like I'll never go back to a single core CPU.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Yes, very very much. Like I said with dual core CPU's. I'll never go back to just 2 gigs of RAM, just like I'll never go back to a single core CPU.


Heck I don't think it will be very long before consumers won't be able to purchase a single core cpu or ram modules smaller then 1 gig new from the stores.


----------



## pez

Well AMD actually has a somewhat newer line of Single Core CPU's.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Well AMD actually has a somewhat newer line of Single Core CPU's.

ya I guess they still have to make cheap processors for system builders who sell pc's to people that don't know the first thing about computers.


----------



## Blitz6804

Cheapest AM2 dual-core processor is something ridiculous like $25. I fail to see how a single-core could be economically viable anymore.


----------



## Jacka

I wonder what speed they could manage to run a single core CPU at with some of the advances made since the days of 939.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jacka*


I wonder what speed they could manage to run a single core CPU at with some of the advances made since the days of 939.


My guess would be not much if any higher then a x2 - x4

edit: amd of couse. I won't exen mention the dark side...


----------



## Blitz6804

There is an idea... 6.0 GHz single-core...

Would likely lose to a 3.0 GHz dual-core though in modern applications.

Interesting... the AM3 Phenom II is rumored to sell at a maximum of 3.5 GHz stock!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Yes, very very much. Like I said with dual core CPU's. I'll never go back to just 2 gigs of RAM, just like I'll never go back to a single core CPU.


Hey Pez, did you ever get assasins creed and how does it play on you pc? I was just installing it on win 7 for the first install ever on a pc and while looking at minimum system requirements it shows that your cpu is just getting by with the bare minimum cpu x2 3800+ that is why I ask.


----------



## Blitz6804

He has it running at 2500 MHz though. So essentially, he has a 4600+ with a little extra.


----------



## HothBase

I used to play Assassin's Creed @ stock 2.0GHz just fine. CPU wasn't holding me back performance wise.


----------



## Blitz6804

The off-site roster now contains eueh as a new member, HothBase's faster overclock, and JustedBin's new Opteron 170.

Cdpkook132: We still need a clearer screenshot of your PC. Neither Joe nor I can read the CPU nor its speed.

jrs: Did you notice that your verification was rejected by CPU-Z? Think you can resubmit it?


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Hey Pez, did you ever get assasins creed and how does it play on you pc? I was just installing it on win 7 for the first install ever on a pc and while looking at minimum system requirements it shows that your cpu is just getting by with the bare minimum cpu x2 3800+ that is why I ask.

Yep i have to reinstall it since the reformat (lost all my saved games







), but it ran smooth. I maxed everything out that I found. The last time I played it though was with one 98GT, so I'm sure it'd run even smoother now.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Yep i have to reinstall it since the reformat (lost all my saved games







), but it ran smooth. I maxed everything out that I found. The last time I played it though was with one 98GT, so I'm sure it'd run even smoother now.


I installed it and started playing with win 7 and lost interest during training. I'll get back into in some other day.


----------



## jrs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


jrs: Did you notice that your verification was rejected by CPU-Z? Think you can resubmit it?


hmm I wonder why. At the moment I can not resubmit because I took my opteron out. I am testing the x2 3800+ I have







. But the smiles are gone ahha. I put everything in. I get three red lights on the LED diagnostic and repeated long beeps. The manual says the three LED's mean the CPU has been detected and the next step is 4 LED's (start-up). The long beeps are suppose to be a dram error, but i have put three different sticks in(all diff brands and I know they all have worked in the board) Any ideas guys?

~jrs

edit: just moved the single stick of ram to the second orange slot and reset the cmos. It booted up and posted


----------



## Blitz6804

Every once and a while the file gets corrupted. I submitted, failed. I got another copy of the verification, passed. Who knows why.

If you have no RAM in at all, what beep codes do you get? Have you remembered to clear the CMOS after changing CPUs?


----------



## jrs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Every once and a while the file gets corrupted. I submitted, failed. I got another copy of the verification, passed. Who knows why.

If you have no RAM in at all, what beep codes do you get? Have you remembered to clear the CMOS after changing CPUs?


yeah when I get it back I will resubmit.

I had already cleared the cmos a few times so I think it was moving the ram that did it









edit: ok so wow I just pulled something so dumb. It post but it says the cmos checksum is messed up. I was going to say I couldn't get to the bios by pressing delete, but umm my keyboard wasn't hooked up







. Just thought I would share, I was freaking out. I am about to run stress prime


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I installed it and started playing with win 7 and lost interest during training. I'll get back into in some other day.


Yeah, the training was rather a drag, but after you're made to "start from scratch" it gets fun. Basically once you get to the first town and if you do all the side quests and such it's really fun. I think even on the computer, it's better to use a control pad. It'd be a rather ridiculous game to play w/ mouse and keyboard. Just like racing games.


----------



## SinX7

Me


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SinX7*


Me










Me what?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Yeah, the training was rather a drag, but after you're made to "start from scratch" it gets fun. Basically once you get to the first town and if you do all the side quests and such it's really fun. I think even on the computer, it's better to use a control pad. It'd be a rather ridiculous game to play w/ mouse and keyboard. Just like racing games.


I'll have to try and see if I can get my logitac rumble pad to work with win 7 and give it a wurl. thanks


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I'll have to try and see if I can get my logitac rumble pad to work with win 7 and give it a wurl. thanks










Yeah yeah yeah, I have the Rumblepad, but it's the wireless version. I just use it as plug and play, and AC picks it up just fine. Misreads the buttons kinda, but for the most part, they buttons are still in the same place. I just really want to get a 360 Wireless controller for windows.


----------



## Blitz6804

Why? I seriously dislike the Microsoft controller. I used to love using my PS3 controller on my computer (gives me a use for the Sixaxis controllers now that I have DualShock 3s) but the driver only works in 32-bit Windows at present. Worse case, I can use my PS2 controllers plug-and-play with a simple $10 adapter which makes one USB port into two PS2 ports. I sometimes use my SNES controllers, also plug-and-play with an adapter, but that adapter set me back about $25 per controller.


----------



## N2Gaming

well My wingman rumble pad is the original and not wireless and I like it a lot. no batteries to ever have to charge and it's not like I'll be really far from my pc while gaming. Unless I use it on my 40" lcd tv. win 7 was able to see and use the wingman rumblepad as soon as I pluged it in. I tested all the buttons and they seem to work flawlessly. I only wish I could say that for Win 7 and other apps. I could not get 
AC to work with rumble pad in win 7 maybe the gaem did not detect it for some reason. who knows, I'll try it again later. I did want to mention. I'm torn between gaming controller or mouse and keyboard. the whole mouse look is much easier for me then using a joystick to control my camera views.


----------



## Blitz6804

For first person shooters, RTS, and 4X, there is no better platform than keyboard and mouse.

For third person shooters, sports games, and racing games, there is no better platform than a controller of some variety.

RPGs can go either way; action or static.

As to wireless controllers: I generally dislike them. As N2Gaming has said, you must worry about battery life. Further, you must worry about radio signal interference and increased latencies. Long and short of it: not for me.

In other news, I sure do miss how easy it was to overclock my Toledo... this Brisbane is giving me a headache!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I sure do miss how easy it was to overclock my Toledo... this Brisbane is giving me a headache!


Sounds like you wnet from the golden coin to the copper coin.







I had some one give me specific setting to help me OC to 3.4 & possibly 3.5 stable on the brizzy 5400+ I have not tried them as of yet.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, pretty much. I wanted to get a Windsor, but I let someone talk me into this Brisbane. Oh well. There might be a Deneb in my future by the Summer time, we will see.

Why do you never play Call of Duty 4 with us?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Methinks Blitz is trying to do the silicon equivalent of squeezing blood from a stone right now, actually...









And all because of Crysis, of all things.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Why do you never play Call of Duty 4 with us?


give me a link to COD4 server and I will


----------



## mega_option101

Just letting all of you guys know:

http://www.overclock.net/overclock-n...mpetition.html


----------



## Blitz6804

Be on Yahoo more often. Next time we play, I will hook you up!

Joe: What am I supposed to do? Crysis gets a lack-luster 35 FPS or so, just edging on unplayable. If you load up GPU-Z, for some reason, it is only loading 50% of each graphics core. There does not seem to be any way to make it load them higher, no matter what I do to the graphics settings, so I must be CPU bound.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

mega_option101, thank you for the heads-up!









Blitzer, there are alternatives, of course. One (which you've already mentioned) is to go with a quad (my preferred tactic, if money is available). Another is to dial the res and eye candy down to raise frame rates (by far the cheapest solution). Yet another is to forget about Crysis altogether.









The point I'm making is that every piece of hardware has a limit. The hard part for most people is admitting that such a thing exists, or refusing to acknowledge it when it's there and plain to see.

(Not acknowledging that is how some people break their toys, actually...)


----------



## Blitz6804

But see, that is the issue. For all intents and purposes, it is as if VSync is stuck on no matter how many times I turn it off. 1280x800 all medium gets the same FPS as 1920x1200 all high 2xAA.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
But see, that is the issue. For all intents and purposes, it is as if VSync is stuck on no matter how many times I turn it off. 1280x800 all medium gets the same FPS as 1920x1200 all high 2xAA.

Game engine limitation/problem (per our private discussions), then, yes?

Nothing you can do about it, then, in my opinion.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Hello mates! What would you go for? An opty 165 CCBWE or an FX-60 LCB1E? Of course I'm willing to o/c


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
Hello mates! What would you go for? An opty 165 CCBWE or an FX-60 LCB1E? Of course I'm willing to o/c









The FX 60 for bragging rights and just a better all around cpu. but you'll definately get a better deal on the opty 165 that is unless you have a friend who is going to hook you up.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Even without pricing information, the FX-60, no question. The stepping is the key.







The CCBWE stepping is, by reputation, one of the worst available.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Even without pricing information, the FX-60, no question. The stepping is the key.







The CCBWE stepping is, by reputation, one of the worst available.









Speaking of stepping does any one have a link to what steppings have been known to work good or bad while overclocking.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

N2G, this should work for you.







These steppings are true for single- and dual-core Athlons with 1MB L2 cache (San Diego and Toledo) as well.


----------



## N2Gaming

Thank you, Txtmstrjoe. I was just going to edit my last post with NVM because I found the same page linked from the opening post of this thread.







now I can find a better cpu on ebay or elsewhere.


----------



## Tator Tot

So I got my delided 3800+ today from Dryadsoul (thank you!!!!!)

And I find out my board that has been sitting in a box for a while is dead....

Well...half dead..
The Onboard Sound, NIC, and Mouse PS/2 port are all dead and not working.
At the minute its not so bad, but because of what I have to plug in, I can only run Xp on it, even though I have a vista license.

So ugg for today.
Got 2 9600GSOs for it aswell. But the one does not show up. SO I think one of the PCIe slots is shot as well.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

No problem, N2G.









Just remember a couple of things: The list provided is a fairly old list; it doesn't include comments/thoughts on the newest steppings (LCB*E, specifically), so it's incomplete. Also, those are not guarantees of OCing potential. The best I can say is that they suggest a certain statistical possibility of OCing potential. In other words, the "good steppings" will yield more good chips than bad; you have a better chance of a good overclock with a chip from a "good" stepping. But it's not impossible to get a great OCer from a "bad" stepping batch too.









Ah, the wonders of overclocking, and its total lack of a sure thing.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
No problem, N2G.









Just remember a couple of things: The list provided is a fairly old list; it doesn't include comments/thoughts on the newest steppings (LCB*E, specifically), so it's incomplete. Also, those are not guarantees of OCing potential. The best I can say is that they suggest a certain statistical possibility of OCing potential. In other words, the "good steppings" will yield more good chips than bad; you have a better chance of a good overclock with a chip from a "good" stepping. But it's not impossible to get a great OCer from a "bad" stepping batch too.









Ah, the wonders of overclocking, and its total lack of a sure thing.









Yes then I also have to remember that most of the opterons were prolly purchase by techie enthusiast's like our selves and may have already uped the voltage to dmg'n effects and then just off the cpu on ebay. Yes the joy's of buying the ever elusive cheap chip for oc'n our 939's. I can't believe used 165 and 175 are going for like 100-140 on ebay. that's insane.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
So I got my delided 3800+ today from Dryadsoul (thank you!!!!!)

And I find out my board that has been sitting in a box for a while is dead....

Well...half dead..
The Onboard Sound, NIC, and Mouse PS/2 port are all dead and not working.
At the minute its not so bad, but because of what I have to plug in, I can only run Xp on it, even though I have a vista license.

So ugg for today.
Got 2 9600GSOs for it aswell. But the one does not show up. SO I think one of the PCIe slots is shot as well.









maybe the southbridge is caput.







good luck


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
maybe the southbridge is caput.







good luck

Swaped the cards around, so they both work.

The RAM shows up fine.

The chip registers all well their.

Every part is checking out. Cept all the stuff on the board is in half or dead working order.

SO I think I'm gonna save some change and try and grab a new 939 board off of Fleabay or Here.

I was really hoping to Overclock this chip, as it was told to be a total beotch if you try so much as to raise the bus value by 1mhz.


----------



## N2Gaming

So go for it man don't let a few dead ports stop your fun of overclocking.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


So go for it man don't let a few dead ports stop your fun of overclocking.










I stripped the machine for now, I'm gonna look for a similar board if I can.

And then try again, once I have a board that isn't half dead.


----------



## nategr8ns

I have a board that's mostly dead if you want to trade







.

I can't get it working at all... No beep codes and only one LED debug light (it's on the whole time the board is powered on).


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
I stripped the machine for now, I'm gonna look for a similar board if I can.

And then try again, once I have a board that isn't half dead.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
I have a board that's mostly dead if you want to trade







.

I can't get it working at all... No beep codes and only one LED debug light (it's on the whole time the board is powered on).

You guys should start a my mobo is dead thread.


----------



## jrs

Hmm so the x2 3800+ seems to have something up its sleeve

This was like 5 min of work.2.75 @ 1.47vcore

I tried 3.01ghz but no go even at 1.57 volts. Nb: 1.7, LDT 1.4, ram on a huge divider. I fiddled for a while but it wouldn't go into windows(295, 290, 285). It was posting but only occasionally going into windows. When it did it BSOD'd. I had a table top fan pointed at ti to make it cool







. Just trying to see fi there is potential it seems there might be.

~jrs


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jrs* 
Hmm so the x2 3800+ seems to have something up its sleeve

This was like 5 min of work.2.75 @ 1.47vcore

I tried 3.01ghz but no go even at 1.57 volts. Nb: 1.7, LDT 1.4, ram on a huge divider. I fiddled for a while but it wouldn't go into windows(295, 290, 285). It was posting but only occasionally going into windows. When it did it BSOD'd. I had a table top fan pointed at ti to make it cool







. Just trying to see fi there is potential it seems there might be.

~jrs

Correct me if I'm wrong but it appears as if you have almost got it into the 1Ghz overclocking club.


----------



## jrs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Correct me if I'm wrong but it appears as if you have almost got it into the 1Ghz overclocking club.

haha not quite. The x2 3800+ is 2.0ghz at stock not 1.8. I thought it was 1.8 before I put it in my computer too.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jrs* 
haha not quite. The x2 3800+ is 2.0ghz at stock not 1.8. I thought it was 1.8 before i put it in my computer too.

Ya I just looked it up myself cause I was thinking it was 1.8 I don't know why.


----------



## tofunater

Hey guys, I've been messing around with my spare rig in my sig, and I'm having an unusual problem. I've over clocked the 165 to 225*9 = 2.025 ghz as a starting point. It shows up in the bios but as soon as I go to check it with software my fsb bump shows as stock in both cpu-z and everest. Things like the multi and voltage show up when changed. Any ideas as to what the issue could be?


----------



## Jacka

Cool and quiet, perhaps.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

tofunater, are you sure you're hitting "F10" to save the changes in the BIOS when you're done with your settings tweaks? I know sometimes I forget to do that.


----------



## tofunater

Cool and quiet is disabled. I wondered if i'd forgotten as well to save, but my voltage changes are evident. And when I go back into the bios, everything is exactly the way I set it, and the post screen shows the proper clock speed.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

tofunater, how old is the CMOS battery? It could be that the battery is starting to die, so the settings are not being saved on the BIOS chip.


----------



## tofunater

I bought it from a member on here, so I'm not sure of its age, but wouldn't the rest of the settings not show up?


----------



## Blitz6804

Do you have Everest Ultimate? If so, that should have a space to show battery voltage. Anything lower than 3.2 V and it would be a good idea to replace it.


----------



## tofunater

I just have Everest Home unfortunately.
edit:
Its actually there in home, its sitting at 3.18 volts


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, change the battery. It should be reading around 3.30 V.

For those of you who have the game, I found out that Gears of War will not run on my PC. Here is the catch: apparently, the digital signature is expired on the game! The signature expired a few days before I ever installed it! Epic is working with Microsoft for a fix, but the unofficial fix right now is to set back your computer clock to fix.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Yeah, change the battery. It should be reading around 3.30 V.

For those of you who have the game, I found out that Gears of War will not run on my PC. Here is the catch: apparently, the digital signature is expired on the game! The signature expired a few days before I ever installed it! Epic is working with Microsoft for a fix, but the unofficial fix right now is to set back your computer clock to fix.


would you have to change both the bios date and the os date or just the os date?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tofunater*


I bought it from a member on here, so I'm not sure of its age, but wouldn't the rest of the settings not show up?


See if systool will let you change the settings.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


but the unofficial fix right now is to set back your computer clock to fix.


LOL, Thats how I used to use Micro$haft Alpha's after the expiration date. Thier coders are soo sneaky!


----------



## timxirish

Ouch, that sucks blitz







. I have Gears of War for my 360 though.. But I feel your pain in regards to Microsoft's digital signatures.. They are quite a hassle sometimes.


----------



## Blitz6804

Its the first game I have ever had a problem with.

N2Gaming: Either works. As far as I know, changing it in one changes it in the other, but I could be wrong.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


*Yeah, change the battery. It should be reading around 3.30 V.*

For those of you who have the game, I found out that Gears of War will not run on my PC. Here is the catch: apparently, the digital signature is expired on the game! The signature expired a few days before I ever installed it! Epic is working with Microsoft for a fix, but the unofficial fix right now is to set back your computer clock to fix.


That's funny, my battery reads 3.06v, and I don't have a single issue.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


That's funny, my battery reads 3.06v, and I don't have a single issue.


A voltmeter is the only real accurate and for sure way to test the battery to know for sure if it's bad.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


A voltmeter is the only real accurate and for sure way to test the battery to know for sure if it's bad.










Very true, but I believe we were discussing Everest readings







. I could care less about a multimeter, if my rig works fine, then why do I care what voltages it THINKS it has?

I believe the vBATT is more or less going to drop with power supply voltage drops. I believe that's why mine reads so low, because I have a poor PSU.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Very true, but I believe we were discussing Everest readings







. I could care less about a multimeter, if my rig works fine, then why do I care what voltages it THINKS it has?

I believe the vBATT is more or less going to drop with power supply voltage drops. I believe that's why mine reads so low, because I have a poor PSU.


the reasons listed below is why I mentioned volt meter.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *tofunater*


Hey guys, I've been messing around with my spare rig in my sig, and I'm having an unusual problem. I've over clocked the 165 to 225*9 = 2.025 ghz as a starting point. It shows up in the bios but as soon as I go to check it with software my fsb bump shows as stock in both cpu-z and everest. Things like the multi and voltage show up when changed. Any ideas as to what the issue could be?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


tofunater, are you sure you're hitting "F10" to save the changes in the BIOS when you're done with your settings tweaks? I know sometimes I forget to do that.











Quote:



Originally Posted by *tofunater*


Cool and quiet is disabled. I wondered if i'd forgotten as well to save, but my voltage changes are evident. And when I go back into the bios, everything is exactly the way I set it, and the post screen shows the proper clock speed.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


tofunater, how old is the CMOS battery? It could be that the battery is starting to die, so the settings are not being saved on the BIOS chip.


----------



## N2Gaming

Sorry for the double post guys but no one has posted for a while and I thought that I could share this with everyone. I found this post by txtmstrjoe and learned something by it and figured a couple of people here might be interested in learning it as well. Plus I wanted to Rep+ joe on a great lesson but he's no longer accepting reputation becuase he has graduated to a higher class of ONC membership.







Congradulations on that BTW txtmstrjoe.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I fail to see how a single-core could be economically viable anymore.


Blitz, there are many business's/corporations that still run single-core desktop machines. It's very cheap especially if you're expanding and doing a build out for 100-300 users. Out of the 8,000 employees that are employed at my job, probably only a few hundred actually have dual core machines, this includes laptops for those that "supposedly" need vpn access. My machine at work has a single-core processor and it's great.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Anything lower than 3.2 V and it would be a good idea to replace it.


Actually a CR2032 battery is rated at 3.0volts









Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Very true, but I believe we were discussing Everest readings







. I could care less about a multimeter, if my rig works fine, then why do I care what voltages it THINKS it has?

I believe the vBATT is more or less going to drop with power supply voltage drops. I believe that's why mine reads so low, because I have a poor PSU.


Pio, in terms of troubleshooting a multimeter is an excellent tool. Voltages are very important when it comes to pretty much everything within a computer. If your PSU has a slightly low 12volt rail then it may not be a huge issue now but it could eventually lead to PSU failure and possibly a larger problem later on.

I'm pretty positive the voltage on the CMOS battery is not directly influenced or affected by the power supply. The cmos battery is it's own power source. It shouldn't compensate for anything.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Is it just me, or did OCN change colors for Moderators and Editors? Moderators seem more yellow than they were, Editors more green.

Thlnk3r: I am aware that a CR2032 is 3.0 V. However, every single motherboard I have checked with (nForce3, Crossfire Xpress3200, 790FX) show it as 3.30 V in Everest when new. It is possible that Everest just reads it off by 300 mV. It could be perhaps that when the computer is in use, the battery voltage is effected by the system power requirements. That is, when in use, the computer putting some extra voltage through the battery to bring it up to the more-standard 3.30 V line. An aging battery then might be 2.70 V, but show up in Everest as 3.0 V. Or I could just be on something.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Thlnk3r: I am aware that a CR2032 is 3.0 V. However, every single motherboard I have checked with (nForce3, Crossfire Xpress3200, 790FX) show it as 3.30 V in Everest when new. It is possible that Everest just reads it off by 300 mV. It could be perhaps that when the computer is in use, the battery voltage is effected by the system power requirements. That is, when in use, the computer putting some extra voltage through the battery to bring it up to the more-standard 3.30 V line. An aging battery then might be 2.70 V, but show up in Everest as 3.0 V. Or I could just be on something.


Blitz, I don't think so. The CMOS battery is completely separate from everything else. If the board were to put extra voltage into the cmos battery then that would lead to overvoltage and that can be dangerous.

If you want to find out the voltage of anything you need to use a multimeter. It's a lot more accurate then software.

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

On voltages: On PSUs, aren't there three + (positive) voltage readings that we look at? Namely, these are 12V, 5V, and 3.3V. So perhaps that's where our apparent confusion lies in our examination of the readings from Everest Ultimate.







That 3.3V reading is not the CMOS battery reading.

I haven't looked at that tab in EU forever, so I might be off-base here.


----------



## Blitz6804

Here is my Everest Ultimate voltage panel.


----------



## thlnk3r

Joe, that's true there could be some confusion.

Blitz, thanks for posting the screen shot. Do you have a multimeter handy? It would be nice to see the difference between software monitoring and an actual hardware device. I can almost guarantee a multimeter will probably show slightly above 3 volts. The CMOS battery in my DFI shows 3.07 volts. Everest shows 3.10 volts. In any case, a CR2032 is rated at 3.0 volts regardless. Don't always trust software









Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Golly gee, there IS a battery voltage line on there!

(That's embarrassing; I've not looked that closely at Everest forever...)

TYVM for screenshot, Blitz!


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, I do not own a mutlimeter. My father has one, but that is nearly 500 miles away.

More or less I use the software for a relativistic basis. I know that with a fresh battery, it reads in excess of 3.30 V. When it dips below 3.20 V, I buy a new battery. Prevents any instability issues like GuardianOdin had. Of course, with a new (to you) motherboard, this is not an option unless you assume out the gate that the battery is bad. Given the age of most 939 hardware you will come across, this is not a poor assumption.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
More or less I use the software for a relativistic basis. I know that with a fresh battery, it reads in excess of 3.30 V. When it dips below 3.20 V, I buy a new battery. Prevents any instability issues like GuardianOdin had.

Blitz, this is of course according to Everest. You actually don't know if it's really going down to 2.9 volts or 2.8 volts ect. If that were the true voltage of the battery then you wouldn't need to change it. If you're changing out your cr2032 battery quite often then there is something else wrong. My DFI SLI-DR has the battery that came with the board when it was first purchased and it's still within spec.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I change about every three years. I know they do not go that fast, but better safe then sorry. (My Dad's Skt 478 just got its first battery after nearly six years.)


----------



## Hueristic

AFA cmos battery goes, It is fine until you boot up and lose you settings. It is a all or nothing component. All your settings are saved or none. There is no inbetween.


----------



## Blitz6804

If I remember right, GuardianOdin has found this not to be the case. His settings were holding, but the computer was unstable at any speed until he changed the CMOS battery. Let me see if I can find the relevant posts. *Opens search feature. Finds it still broken.*

Looks like I will have to do this the hard way. *Starts browsing the thread...*


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


If I remember right, GuardianOdin has found this not to be the case. His settings were holding, but the computer was unstable at any speed until he changed the CMOS battery. Let me see if I can find the relevant posts. *Opens search feature. Finds it still broken.*


Blitz, that is interesting. In past when removing the battery it has cleared all the settings in the BIOS. I have noticed though that you can remove the battery while the machine is running and everything still holds









Good luck


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


If I remember right, GuardianOdin has found this not to be the case. His settings were holding, but the computer was unstable at any speed until he changed the CMOS battery. Let me see if I can find the relevant posts. *Opens search feature. Finds it still broken.*

Looks like I will have to do this the hard way. *Starts browsing the thread...*



True, but also remember that was about the time my Ultra 600 watt was going bad as well. I did test that battery btw. I put in my car alarm thing "unlock/lock doors" and it wouldn't work.

What are the odds of the PSU going bad and the battery going dead at the same time


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, I am back to page 182 (Post 7258) and I have not found it yet... I will eventually. I think.

I would like to take this time to make a plug for S&M. I was attempting to squeeze a few more megahertz out of my system. To stress stability, I was running FPU 100%. At anything above my current clocks I would get a BSOD. The faster the system, the earlier the BSOD. Sure, it took a while to test, but not more than 30 minutes. This made for very fast (comparative to Orthos DC) testing of my overclock. I have also found that S&M is more likely to cause a BSOD the more resources it can get its grubby little hands on; clear your systray and processes tab of everything you can for maximum effectiveness. (Exempli gratia: 16x221 works running S&M normally. Running it by clearing all processes first that you have a 1% load on the CPU before starting it caused a BSOD.) Perhaps the best way to run S&M is in Safe Mode?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Fancy this. I never knew about my L2 cache and XP and it does in fact speed up your system.

I just found this again. I checked Vista, and what do you know, it is shut off there by default too. I just set it to 512 KB (stock on a Brisbane) and will let everyone know what happens. I will be rebooting after I find what I am looking for. Or until I reach Page 1. Or I lose my sanity.

In other news, do not forget everyone: I am hosting a party for the club September 3rd of this year. People should start looking into airfare starting in March. (Most airlines let you book up to 6 months in advance.) For some, it may be more economical to drive/carpool. Bringing your rig is a good idea (for LAN gaming!) but it is not expected of you. The closest airport to me is the Buffalo Niagara International Airport (BUF), but Rochester (ROC) and Toronto (YYZ) are both possible options, at about a 70-minute drive each.


----------



## Blitz6804

To sod with it. Already back to August (Post 6330) so either I missed it, or it was not there.

I am about to test the L2 Cache setting in Vista. Standby.


----------



## GuardianOdin

For all of those using Evga Precision tool to OC your video cards. I have found on my rig that it caused instability when OC'ing my Opty. This is during boot up mind you. After the OC is considered stable, it is safe to load up Precision again.


----------



## Blitz6804

Testing has shown no difference in benchmarks, so I fired up Google. I found this. It seems that a setting of 0 has Windows automatically detect L2 cache from the HAL. If it fails, it uses 256 KB. Windows XP/Vista have problems accessing HAL with processors earlier than P-II, so those of us with K8s and newer should be fine.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
AFA cmos battery goes, It is fine until you boot up and lose you settings. It is a all or nothing component. All your settings are saved or none. There is no inbetween.









I tend to agree with you. All or nothing. If the battery is bad then you will have to reset your time and bios settings/options. After you replace the battery the settings will hold. As far as taken the battery out and not loosing the settings I find it theoredically possible if you don't move the clear cmos jumper. My guess is there are capacitors on the mobo that supply power to the cmos when the system is booted up and running so that it won't drain the battery while it's running. Then once you turn the rig off the capacitors could retain a charge long enough to change the battery w/o loosing the bios settings. Please let me know if I'm wrong but I think this might be why the software voltage will be different from the actual battery voltage.









Edit: On a lighter note I just purchased a ECS945GCT-M/1333 and a Intel E5200 for a $100 NIB at Fry's for a CCTV Project I'm working on in order to catch some of the dark side lurkers around my neighborhood.









In the last year I have had 2 x cd stereo's ripp'd and two windows broken and my bass boat vandalized. Huh time for some action...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I tend to agree with you. All or nothing. If the battery is bad then you will have to reset your time and bios settings/options. After you replace the battery the settings will hold. As far as taken the battery out and not loosing the settings I find it theoredically possible if you don't move the clear cmos jumper. My guess is there are capacitors on the mobo that supply power to the cmos when the system is booted up and running so that it won't drain the battery while it's running. Then once you turn the rig off the capacitors could retain a charge long enough to change the battery w/o loosing the bios settings.

N2Gaming, try removing the battery and then unplug power from your PSU. I wonder if then the BIOS settings will still be there. That would be an interesting test









Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Please let me know if I'm wrong but I think this might be why the software voltage will be different from the actual battery voltage.









Software monitoring just isn't as accurate as using a hardware device for measurement. I believe my multimeter provides results that are between 2-4%? I can't exactly remember but you can only imagine the difference between software.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, try removing the battery and then unplug power from your PSU. I wonder if then the BIOS settings will still be there. That would be an interesting test










Edit: I think I'll try that experiment out next time I put one of my spare nf4 rigs together.

I have a el cheapo DMM that I paid less then $8.00 for at Harbor freight tools several years back, I love that little thing it even has a continuity speaker for testing resistance and letting you know if you have a closed circuit w/o any voltage required.

Any how I always check with that thing any time I think I may have any power related issues. I even whip it out to chech my 9 v batteries for my smoke detectors.









A Digital Multi Meter comes in handy more than you realize once you have one.


----------



## pez

*sigh* reinstalled XP to run CSS (Vista is irking me ATM) and now it doesn't want to let me enable SLI in the Nvidia Control panel? IDK what's going on, maybe I'll have to roll back drivers. Recognizes both cards, just no SLI. Also, here's a lovely SS of my pwnage 9800GT.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Odd Pez, I recall having the same issues when I had 8600GTS's in SLI. Is SLI even working at all? Do you see benefits when running 3DMark or a game?


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Odd Pez, I recall having the same issues when I had 8600GTS's in SLI. Is SLI even working at all? Do you see benefits when running 3DMark or a game?


Any tips? SLI doesn't even show up as an option to be enabled in the nvidia control panel. And also, one, or maybe both of my cards are running at 100% fan on their own. EVGA only shows one GPU available for OC'ing. I'm still doing windows updates, so i'm not sure. Maybe I'll have to roll back my drivers. Vista hasn't had these problems







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Any tips? SLI doesn't even show up as an option to be enabled in the nvidia control panel. And also, one, or maybe both of my cards are running at 100% fan on their own. EVGA only shows one GPU available for OC'ing. I'm still doing windows updates, so i'm not sure. Maybe I'll have to roll back my drivers. Vista hasn't had these problems







.


Yes load your mobo chipset drivers and then your video card drivers and then reboot again and look at the right bottom corner of your taskbar. It should promp you that you have a sli capable system or something like that.


----------



## Blitz6804

The most often overlooked driver, those of the humble chipset. This is the link for nForce 15.23 for XP-32.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
*sigh* reinstalled XP to run CSS (Vista is irking me ATM) and now it doesn't want to let me enable SLI in the Nvidia Control panel? IDK what's going on, maybe I'll have to roll back drivers. Recognizes both cards, just no SLI. Also, here's a lovely SS of my pwnage 9800GT.

Pez, at any point were you experiencing these issues in Vista as well? I'm just trying to get some clarification. Were any hardware changes made recently? Did you try a different SLI bridge? Have you tried downloading and installing a older version of the display driver to see if that reveals anything?

Good luck buddy


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Yes load your mobo chipset drivers and then your video card drivers and then reboot again and look at the right bottom corner of your taskbar. It should promp you that you have a sli capable system or something like that.









Yeah, I've already done that when I first installed XP.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Pez, at any point were you experiencing these issues in Vista as well? I'm just trying to get some clarification. Were any hardware changes made recently? Did you try a different SLI bridge? Have you tried downloading and installing a older version of the display driver to see if that reveals anything?

Good luck buddy









I've tried 180.48 and 181.22. Both resulted in same thing. Weird thing is, when I go to Precision to OC one card now, it OC's both cards, but doesn't clarify SLI is enabled. If I switch over to my Vista drive though, it works and says it's enabled.*sigh*. Everything is just against me on this.


----------



## N2Gaming

Pez have you gone into the nvidia control panel and selected enable sli or are you just not getting the option. Oh you are trying to sli two video cards with 4 gig of ram and 1 gig of vid ram. take out two ram sticks and see if that is why you are not able to sli in xp 32 bit. If I'm way out in left field on this one guys just laugh it off at least my heart is in the right place. good luck pez.


----------



## BlackOmega

Pez, Ive had driver issues with nvidia since the 178.xx drivers. They seem to work jsut fine except for ceratin games artifact like crazy for no reason. Ive tried all the 180.xx drivers, didnt help. I even have 181.xx loaded up. Still the same damn issue. For my cards I actually went with a much older driver. For yours try loading up the 177.79 driver for xp, see if that changes anything. I noticed when I went with the older drivers, my framerates dropped slightly, in some games worse than others, but it just looked better. Ill take a slight frame rate hit for that. Not to mention it took care of all the artifacting I was getting in games, so I know it was a driver issue causing me my headache.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Pez have you gone into the nvidia control panel and selected enable sli or are you just not getting the option. Oh you are trying to sli two video cards with 4 gig of ram and 1 gig of vid ram. take out two ram sticks and see if that is why you are not able to sli in xp 32 bit. If I'm way out in left field on this one guys just laugh it off at least my heart is in the right place. good luck pez.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Pez, Ive had driver issues with nvidia since the 178.xx drivers. They seem to work jsut fine except for ceratin games artifact like crazy for no reason. Ive tried all the 180.xx drivers, didnt help. I even have 181.xx loaded up. Still the same damn issue. For my cards I actually went with a much older driver. For yours try loading up the 177.79 driver for xp, see if that changes anything. I noticed when I went with the older drivers, my framerates dropped slightly, in some games worse than others, but it just looked better. Ill take a slight frame rate hit for that. Not to mention it took care of all the artifacting I was getting in games, so I know it was a driver issue causing me my headache.

Yeah, I don't even get the option in the control panel to enable SLI. It has the PhysX option which is enabled, but there's no option for SLI. I will try the 177.79's, but I never had this problem when I had my 2 6600LE's in XP or Vista. I'm thinking I may have to take each card and install drivers seperately, but I really don't want to go through the hassle. But my question now is if anyone has tried out CSS in Windows 7 w/ SLI or a 9800GT. Better yet, do any of you play CSS on Vista? I'm curious if I'm alone on this FPS issue.


----------



## Blitz6804

Ah-hem. The new contest deadline is now official.


----------



## Blitz6804

Oh, Thlnk3r:

I am presently running my computer with 2 instances of [email protected] while watching a movie on Mozilla and running 7 IM clients. My computer setup (including monitor, speakers, modem, router, hub) is drawing about 536 W @ 121 V A/C. Throw my laptop doing a [email protected] on there, and that number balloons up to 588 W @ 121 V A/C.

I will let you know when the CPU unit is done of SMP uses any more electricity. The thing I wonder: how much power would I draw if not only my CPU cores were loading 100% (which they are now) but also my GPU cores were loading 100% (presently around 75% each). How about if I booted the PS3 up to do its [email protected]? In any event, at my present 588 W, I have about 12 minutes battery life.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Ah-hem. The new contest deadline is now official.

SWEET, Maybe I'll have time to give it a go again!

I just watched the UPS truck drive by with my OPTY on board!!!







:swearing:

These guys are ******ed! I called and they say it will be delivered today so hopefully they'll call him and tell him to turn around!


----------



## N2Gaming

How much $$$ would folding at home equate to in terms of Elctricity bill. I have thought about it in the past but thought that the added electricity bill would not be something I care to aquire.


----------



## Blitz6804

You would need to use a mutlimeter to determine how much wattage your rig pulls doing what it normally does versus what it does while folding and doing what you normally do. The wattage difference can then be used to find the difference in KW-Hr a month. Since you know how much you pay per KW-Hr, you are good to go at that point.


----------



## N2Gaming

OK







any esier ways of going about it? like you tell me that I should not pay more than $5.00 a month etc.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


How much $$$ would folding at home equate to in terms of Elctricity bill. I have thought about it in the past but thought that the added electricity bill would not be something I care to aquire.











Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


OK







any esier ways of going about it? like you tell me that I should not pay more than $5.00 a month etc.


Well it alldepends on what your rig pulls as Blitz stated and what you rate is but most peops find between $15-25 per month on a single rig. And that's if they go from shutting down the system when not in use to 24/7. It's less if you ordinarily keep your rig on 24/7. Also if you gpu fold it depends on the card. There are good threads in the [email protected] area. Look at Ben browns thread on cheapest folding cards and it has all the charts in a nice handy post that will tell you you cards cost effectiveness.

ON a SIDE note, I called UPS and they put it on the wrong truck and called the GUY and he just high tailed it over here an handed me my OPTY!!!! I am about to open it up! I'm like a kid at christmas!!!!


----------



## Blitz6804

The best cards to fold on are nVidia. CUDA kills anything ATI can turn out regardless of their gaming performances. The best price/performance ratio was an 8800 GS I think? It was an 8800 series in any event.

The way I see it, while I am folding, my computer puts out more heat. More heat means the gas heater comes on less. Any money I "waste" in folding is made up by money saved on heating the place anyway. The way I look at it, even if you do not have the resources to fold 24/7, it would not hurt to fold at least one unit a day. (Which is what I used to do. One unit a day on a 3850. One SMP over the course of the week on my University's electric bill via my laptop. Further, one PS3 unit whenever I got around to it.) Now I am trying to get the HD 4870x2 to dual-fold nicely and I will be doing two units a day. Right now though, I am having massive problems. GPU1 folds no sweat whatsoever. GPU0 keeps crashing at random intervals. Sometimes it is 5% done, sometimes 65%. In any event, it is very annoying! Oh, and I had to unlike ATI Overdrive. If I did not, GPU0 would clock up to 750/900, but GPU1 would stay at 507/500, seriously killing folding performance. (Was about 75% of the PPD of GPU0 according to FAHMON.) I also needed to do this because the fan was not kicking up as the card heated up. Granted, 84Âº C is far from a problem for a 4870x2, I just do not like seeing a number that high. I changed the fan from auto (30%) to manual (60%) and temperatures have gone down to 57Âº C.

Congrats on going dual-core Hueristic!

Not to sound rude, but do you ever intend to add your 939 system to your profile? It need not replace your TI-994A, but that is presently your only listed system. You want to be able to show off your new Opty I would think.


----------



## N2Gaming

OK so I think I'll stick with my cheap original plan. NO FOLDING for now. Maybe someday when I get a job.


----------



## Blitz6804

I just thought I would mention it for all here, Mushkin Extreme Redline DDR500 is down to $80 for a 2x1024 MB kit.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I just thought I would mention it for all here, Mushkin Extreme Redline DDR500 is down to $80 for a 2x1024 MB kit.


Last week they had a sticker price of $80.00 w/a $40.00 mail in rebate. That is when I should have jumped on it.


----------



## BlackOmega

Ok fellaz Ive got some issues now. My 4870 and my 2 new WD 250 gig drives showed up yesterday. I tried loading it up on my CFX board but for some reason it doesnt find the disks. Which is weird because I was able to RAID them. But windows installer couldnt detect them in RAID or individually. So remembering what Joe said about these boards, I tore out the CFX board and put my Asus board back in. I enabled everything in BIOS so that I could set them up in RAID 0. But once again windows installer couldnt detect the disks. But it does detect them individually. 
So at any rate I loaded up 1 of the drives with XP and got it all updated to SP3. No issues, installed the driver for the 4870, no issues, then I decided to install all the drivers for the board, BIG ISSUE! It restarted and when going in to windows boom, BSOD. Tried it in safe mode, same issue.







ATM, I am reloading XP on the other drive I got. Can I just not install the NF4 drivers? It seemed to work fine without them.
You guys have any ideas? Ill try to get it up an running so I can finally do some benchmarking.


----------



## Blitz6804

You need to put the RAID driver for XP onto a floppy disk or thumbdrive. Then press F6 as soon as Windows appears to load the RAID driver needed to recognize the RAID. Vista includes the RAID drivers natively. And no, you cannot install the nF4 drivers on the CFX. Install the newest CCC and it will install all the drivers needed for the Crossfire Xpress 3200 chipset on the DFI CFX.


----------



## BlackOmega

O no not the NF4 on the CFX board







I meant on my A8N32sli deluxe.ANd Im not sure what exactly you mean as to when to hit f6. As its going into the windows setup/installer?


----------



## Blitz6804

Correct. As soon as you see the blue screen of the installer, you will see a little message on the bottom that says "Press F6 if you need to install a SCSI or RAID controller." You must click early, or you miss it.


----------



## BlackOmega

Thanx BLitz, where can I find the installer? Sorry I'm a RAID newb so this is all new to me.


----------



## Blitz6804

Most motherboards come with the floppy needed. If not, you can likely find the file needed in the newest nVidia driver package.


----------



## BlackOmega

OK thanx I bet the utility is on the MB CD Ill probably just have to make a floppy.

Do you think there might be a conflict with the NF4 driver and the ATi driver causing my BSODs?


----------



## Blitz6804

I am skeptical, but I would not be surprised. I have had problems in the past with nVidia chipset drivers causing issues with ATI video cards. (Namely, the nForce3 / AGP ATI issue.)


----------



## pez

*sigh* I think my 60GB IDE may be dying. No XP for me. I still don't understand why the SLI wasn't working >.<. I'm really irked w/ computers right now. Can't even get Windows 7 to install on that thing. Can't get SLI to work in XP, and CSS still lags in Vista. Ugh!


----------



## N2Gaming

I have been on the hunt for one of these for about 2 months now and this is the one that I just won on ebay. Hopefully there is nothing wrong with it and I will be one of the few to have the best Asus socket 939 mobo's on the planet. I Can't wait to start playing w/it.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
ON a SIDE note, I called UPS and they put it on the wrong truck and called the GUY and he just high tailed it over here an handed me my OPTY!!!! I am about to open it up! I'm like a kid at christmas!!!!









Congradulations. Hope it's a good opty and works good for you.


----------



## Blitz6804

Wow... $15 shipping...

I know Joe and Pioneer both enjoy their A8N32s, I am sure you will too!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Wow... $15 shipping...

I know Joe and Pioneer both enjoy their A8N32s, I am sure you will too!

Thanks blitz.Yea $15.00 is a little high but if it gets here safe and sound then I'm a happy camper.

I'm gonna have to start selling some of this stuff some day. my computer room looks like a pc recycle center/junk drawer office space









I think I'll keep 1x sli dr, 1x sli dr expert, 2x m2n32 sli deluxe, and 1x a8n32 sli deluxe.

that means I would sell 1x sli dr, 1x sli dr expert, 1x m2n32 sli deluxe and then I could prolly sell some of the older fax cards vid cards either net cards sound cards etc. Poblem is they are all old and designed for win 98







yeah that's right win 98 that's why I say the room looks like a juck drawer.


----------



## BlackOmega

Congrats Hue and N2. Im sure youll notice a considerable improvement with teh opty







.

N2, the a8n32slideluxe is a great board. When I was puttin gmy original system together I bought that board for its versatility. Not to mention you can put 2 double stack cards in it and still have room for 1 full size pci card......Does it come as is or are you going to get the utilities disk with it. Theres a lot of good stuff on em. If you dont get the disk PM me I can send you some of the files.

PS: Make sure you get teh I/O shield with it.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Congrats Hue and N2. Im sure youll notice a considerable improvement with teh opty







.

N2, the a8n32slideluxe is a great board. When I was puttin gmy original system together I bought that board for its versatility. Not to mention you can put 2 double stack cards in it and still have room for 1 full size pci card......Does it come as is or are you going to get the utilities disk with it. Theres a lot of good stuff on em. If you dont get the disk PM me I can send you some of the files.

PS: Make sure you get teh I/O shield with it.

I have several I/O shields and if I don't get it or have one then I'll just fab one with some thin aluminum. Prolly use one of the extra I/O shields chopped up with a silver bullet can or something.









thanks. I don't know what it comes with I just won it by accident actually. I totally forgot about it and when I checked my email I had a msg you just won this item. I was like ok now how did that cost me. oh better then my highest bid not much but never the less it was a little cheaper then I was wiling to go. I'll have to send an email to to the seller see what it comes with. Only after I check to see if I already did that. I'll let you know about the pm thanks.


----------



## pez

Well, I'm toying with the idea of putting most of my rig up for sale...apparently a 2.5GHz CPU in Vista playing CSS doesn't cut it.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I don't know what it comes with I just won it by accident actually. I totally forgot about it and when I checked my email I had a msg you just won this item. I was like ok now how did that cost me.















































Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Well, I'm toying with the idea of putting most of my rig up for sale...apparently a 2.5GHz CPU in Vista playing CSS doesn't cut it.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*















































It gets even better. The intel rig I got yester day and had to return fubar'd my toughpower 700w power supply that I was using for testing in BNBB.







That was my fault so I'm not that mad at ECS but damb. What am I gonna do now. That was a expensive PSU that cost me a pretty penny as well less then 6 months ago...


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


It gets even better. The intel rig I got yester day and had to return fubar'd my toughpower 700w power supply that I was using for testing in BNBB.







That was my fault so I'm not that mad at ECS but damb. What am I gonna do now. That was a expensive PSU that cost me a pretty penny s well less then 6 months ago...










r m a


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


r m a


















If only I haden't moded it.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*













































































Yeah, I know, but it's seriously getting on my last nerve. Maybe I could get a GTX 260 216 for both of my cards...hmmm. That way I wouldn't have to worry about getting an SLI board.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Yeah, I know, but it's seriously getting on my last nerve. Maybe I could get a GTX 260 216 for both of my cards...hmmm. That way I wouldn't have to worry about getting an SLI board.


then youl just want to sli that card later on down the road. buy used video cards with warranty and save some dough.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*









If only I haden't moded it.




















Well you made me get the keyboard out!









Make a thread in the PS section explaining the problem and post some pics of the internals and I'll see if I can help you repair it. But I won't be able to type again till later or tomorrow. But I'll click alot of smileys until then!







Well taking a pill so maybe I'll get the keyboard out again. I had like 6 posts in here from earlier I was going to answer but they got worked out! LOL

Also since it looks like all you did was add tape for aesthetic purposes you may not have voided warranty (Cept opening the case). Email them and see, It can't hurt. Some companies are good that way.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I am presently running my computer with 2 instances of [email protected] while watching a movie on Mozilla and running 7 IM clients. My computer setup (including monitor, speakers, modem, router, hub) is drawing about 536 W @ 121 V A/C. Throw my laptop doing a [email protected] on there, and that number balloons up to 588 W @ 121 V A/C.

Blitz, well at least you know your rig is not over taxing your PSU. You're probably drawing near 300-320 tops full load.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
How much $$$ would folding at home equate to in terms of Elctricity bill. I have thought about it in the past but thought that the added electricity bill would not be something I care to aquire.









N2Gaming, when I was crunching [email protected] on four single core P4 boards my electricity bill went up $26. Till this day I still remember this number because my wife was yelling at me about it









Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I am skeptical, but I would not be surprised. I have had problems in the past with nVidia chipset drivers causing issues with ATI video cards. (Namely, the nForce3 / AGP ATI issue.)

Blitz, I never had any issues with my nForce 3 board and my X800 Pro. I guess it's a hit and miss.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
*sigh* I think my 60GB IDE may be dying. No XP for me. I still don't understand why the SLI wasn't working >.<. I'm really irked w/ computers right now. Can't even get Windows 7 to install on that thing. Can't get SLI to work in XP, and CSS still lags in Vista. Ugh!

Pez, does this XP installation have Service Pack 3? Did you try another SLI bridge as I suggested in my previous post?

Good luck guys


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 









Well you made me get the keyboard out!









Make a thread in the PS section explaining the problem and post some pics of the internals and I'll see if I can help you repair it. But I won't be able to type again till later or tomorrow. But I'll click alot of smileys until then!







Well taking a pill so maybe I'll get the keyboard out again. I had like 6 posts in here from earlier I was going to answer but they got worked out! LOL

Also since it looks like all you did was add tape for aesthetic purposes you may not have voided warranty (Cept opening the case). Email them and see, It can't hurt. Some companies are good that way.

Yeah maybe I'll send them a link of my mod in progress thread so they can see exactely what I did. We'll see. I'll get those pics up in a while.

By the way the intel board is another project I'm conjuring up with the name ICU becuase gonna be a CCTV system" that's I See You not intensive care unit. I have the new intel mobo running with a 300 watt 20 pin atx PSU ATM well not really running but posted and ready for install as soon as I copy some files to another drive and remove one from one of the other systems.

IDE sucks egg's. I forgot just how much till last night when I was trying to use my ide hdd's with ide cd/rom drives. The whole master, slave, single drive and using pliers for the jumpers using reading glasses etc etc etc. IDE man I'm so glad they came up with SATA...

I'll see if I can find the section of OCN you were talking about to post pics of the internals in a new help thread. Thanks


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz, well at least you know your rig is not over taxing your PSU. You're probably drawing near 300-320 tops full load.

...

Blitz, I never had any issues with my nForce 3 board and my X800 Pro. I guess it's a hit and miss.

At idle, I draw around 354 W @ 121 V A/C. This means that while folding two units, I go up around 202 W. Two units are each done in about 6 hours (baring difficulties) meaning that I am drawing an extra 1.2 KW-hr. At 14Â¢ per, that means I am spending an extra $52 a year by contributing about 730 Work Units to the cause.

As to the nForce3 issue: As you all remember me mentioning a while ago, before I swung to PCI-E, there were a few steps needed to trigger the problem. You must have an nForce3 board, a dual-core CPU, an ATi graphics card, and Windows Vista. Miss any of those four elements and you were fine. (SiS/VIA also had issues with AGP, Vista, and dual-core processors when Vista first came out, but they fixed them. nVidia only fixed it for nVidia AGP cards and then kept promising in press releases a fix was coming for ATi. Ask tech support, and they told you to upgrade to nForce4, because no fix was ever going to be released. As of today, no fix has yet been released.)


----------



## N2Gaming

I just thought about something with my recent power supply issue and the ones I read about with PIO's PSU's. I think it is much wiser to not fold and my rigs so that I don't have a house fire while I'm away and unatending my rigs.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I feel special thanks to Nvidia's new naming schemes. I'm on a card, that's not even released yet







. So is Froggy (8800GTS 512). Check it out (you can find these threads all over the hardware news section):

8800GT = 9800GT = GTS240 (not out yet)
8800GTS 512 = 9800GTX = 9800GTX+ = GTS 250 (not out yet)

So I'm on a GTS240, and she's on a GTS 250 by all technicality. All they're doing is flashing the BIOS (again). They're not even doing a die shrink....which lets be honest, didn't do anything at all to the 9800 series. I'm gonna go edit my sig now







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I feel special thanks to Nvidia's new naming schemes. I'm on a card, that's not even released yet







. So is Froggy (8800GTS 512). Check it out (you can find these threads all over the hardware news section):

8800GT = 9800GT = GTS240 (not out yet)
8800GTS 512 = 9800GTX = 9800GTX+ = GTS 250 (not out yet)

So I'm on a GTS240, and she's on a GTS 250 by all technicality. All they're doing is flashing the BIOS (again). They're not even doing a die shrink....which lets be honest, didn't do anything at all to the 9800 series. I'm gonna go edit my sig now







.


I was tempted to purchase the xfx 8800 gts 512mb alpha dog edition back when they were still selling them. maybe some day I can pick up a good used one...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


At idle, I draw around 354 W @ 121 V A/C. This means that while folding two units, I go up around 202 W.


Blitz, that doesn't make sense. So full load you are drawing 556watts? I'm not talking about everything plugged into your UPS. I'm talking about just your computer and nothing else. If 556 watts is true then where are you getting the 536 watts from?


----------



## Pest

pez don't even think about selling your rig. Change is bad, 939 goood.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
then youl just want to sli that card later on down the road. buy used video cards with warranty and save some dough.

I should've been clearer. I'm thinking of trading both for a HD 4850 or HD 4870, or see if I can get my hands on a GTX 260 or something like that as I'm highly considering moving to AM2+/AM3. I just want to have one card so I don't have to worry about finding an SLI board, or having ot spend more money for an SLI capable board, when I could just get a single slot board for a decent price.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz, well at least you know your rig is not over taxing your PSU. You're probably drawing near 300-320 tops full load.

N2Gaming, when I was crunching [email protected] on four single core P4 boards my electricity bill went up $26. Till this day I still remember this number because my wife was yelling at me about it









Blitz, I never had any issues with my nForce 3 board and my X800 Pro. I guess it's a hit and miss.

Pez, does this XP installation have Service Pack 3? Did you try another SLI bridge as I suggested in my previous post?

Good luck guys

Ah, it's too late now, I've already formatted the drive. It couldn't have been the bridge b/c it's fine in Vista. I don't have another way to test it out anyways.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pest* 
pez don't even think about selling your rig. Change is bad, 939 goood.

Ah, well I'm not too fond of going back to XP, and Windows 7 will be out sooner than we realize, so I'm going to be on the hunt for a CPU that can do an upwards of 3GHz. Blitz and I have gone through quite a bit of possible suspects, to which no answer was found. *sigh* I may just try and do straight trades for it all.

On a second note. What do you guys think about a HD 4850 compared to 2x9800GT's? Remember my SLI is obviously bottlenecked, but how does a HD 4850 handle CoD4, Crysis, and CS:S at 1680x1050? I can max out CoD4 w/ no problems, and Crysis runs nice actually on High settings, but I'm not so worried about Crysis, as I play CS:S the most (lol). I'm going to take out a 9800GT to see how one handles them all OC'ed to 700/1750/1005.


----------



## Blitz6804

CoD4 you will still do very nice. I am not sure if it will max out at really high-end resolutions, but at your 1680x1050, you should be fine. Crysis will have issues. My HD 4870x2 cannot max that game out at 1680x1050. That game is VERY heavily optimized in nVidia's corner. Perhaps sell the 9800 GTs and see if you can get your hands on a GTX 285?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, that doesn't make sense. So full load you are drawing 556watts? I'm not talking about everything plugged into your UPS. I'm talking about just your computer and nothing else. If 556 watts is true then where are you getting the 536 watts from?


No, at full load, my UPS is providing 536 W. This is everything I use on the computer. The tower, the speakers, the monitor, the router, the hub, the cable modem, the printer/PS3/360/Wii (all on standby), the Xbox/N64/SNES (shouldn't be drawing current while off), an audio decoder (on standby) and an HDMI switch. Maybe later today (after the shock of the semester starting wears off) I will try unplugging everything but the tower from the UPS and getting a reading. Maybe. Just to show I care. *Chuckles.*


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


I should've been clearer. I'm thinking of trading both for a HD 4850 or HD 4870, or see if I can get my hands on a GTX 260 or something like that as I'm highly considering moving to AM2+/AM3. I just want to have one card so I don't have to worry about finding an SLI board, or having ot spend more money for an SLI capable board, when I could just get a single slot board for a decent price.

Ah, it's too late now, I've already formatted the drive. It couldn't have been the bridge b/c it's fine in Vista. I don't have another way to test it out anyways.

Ah, well I'm not too fond of going back to XP, and Windows 7 will be out sooner than we realize, so I'm going to be on the hunt for a CPU that can do an upwards of 3GHz. Blitz and I have gone through quite a bit of possible suspects, to which no answer was found. *sigh* I may just try and do straight trades for it all.

On a second note. What do you guys think about a HD 4850 compared to 2x9800GT's? Remember my SLI is obviously bottlenecked, but how does a HD 4850 handle CoD4, Crysis, and CS:S at 1680x1050? I can max out CoD4 w/ no problems, and Crysis runs nice actually on High settings, but I'm not so worried about Crysis, as I play CS:S the most (lol). I'm going to take out a 9800GT to see how one handles them all OC'ed to 700/1750/1005.


Well, I can handle Crysis on all high @ 1440x900 with 2x AA with my Opty and 8800GT. I was hoping for all Ultra High @ 1440x900 with 8800GT SLI. But I may or may not end up going that route now.

Seems something may have been damaged in the Apevia accident afterall. I can't get "stability" even with stock. It still FEELS stable enough, it doesn't crash or BSOD or anything. But it will not pass Orthos / S&M / OCCT, anything! Awaiting my new PSU to test further







.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Well, I can handle Crysis on all high @ 1440x900 with 2x AA with my Opty and 8800GT. I was hoping for all Ultra High @ 1440x900 with 8800GT SLI. But I may or may not end up going that route now.

Seems something may have been damaged in the Apevia accident afterall. I can't get "stability" even with stock. It still FEELS stable enough, it doesn't crash or BSOD or anything. But it will not pass Orthos / S&M / OCCT, anything! Awaiting my new PSU to test further







.


Yeah, well hopefully my plan will be going for me as far as getting a better CPU. I'm not so worried about Crysis. Just more CS:S and CoD4. If I can't get a card that I want out of that trade, I'll just sell them for about $90 shipped a piece, or $85+shipping. Then I could get a HD 4870.


----------



## Blitz6804

If you go HD 4870, it is better to get the 1 GB model. The extra frame buffer is helpful at higher resolutions when you want to put on AA. At present (your 1680x1050) it may not be needed, but you never know when you want to upgrade to a 24" with 1920x1200. Or perhaps get that 42" 1080P TV.


----------



## pez

Well I'm thinking of going w/ one 9800GTX+ or a HD 4850 and then going back to XP. I have to get my copy back from my neighbor. Anything to convince me from going back to XP? I mean, selling my Mobo, CPU, and RAM, can get me a very decent AM2+ setup probably that would get rid of my CSS problem.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


No, at full load, my UPS is providing 536 W. This is everything I use on the computer. The tower, the speakers, the monitor, the router, the hub, the cable modem, the printer/PS3/360/Wii (all on standby), the Xbox/N64/SNES (shouldn't be drawing current while off), an audio decoder (on standby) and an HDMI switch. Maybe later today (after the shock of the semester starting wears off) I will try unplugging everything but the tower from the UPS and getting a reading. Maybe. Just to show I care. *Chuckles.*


Blitz, so where does the 356 watts idle come into play? Sorry you keep confusing me with the "providing power". The UPS isn't really providing power unless it's on battery. The UPS is mainly there to provide line conditioning. I was referring to power consumption









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


(shouldn't be drawing current while off)


Even though it's "off" or in "standby" it's still consuming electricity. Unplugging it would be the best way to avoid that.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

True, it consumes only a minor amount of energy due to line resistance. Unlike devices that are on standby, which consistently draw power for internal clocks and the like. The 354 W of "idle" is my GPU cores at 0%, my CPU cores in full CnQ settings with less than 10% load on each. The 556 W of "load" is my GPU cores at 65%, my CPU cores in their highest multiplier with 100% load on each. To get a "true load," I suppose I need to get both of those GPUs up to 100%. I will try that perhaps when I get home too.

In all conditions, there is also the ground hum of all the other equipment plugged into my UPS. The power draw on those are identical regardless of what my computer is doing (idle, load, or true load). Like I said, if I am feeling less lazy when I get out of Corporations (in a half hour or less), I will try having the tower as the only thing plugged into the UPS. By the way, the power draw I am getting is coming from APC Power Chute. It tells me how much power the unit is supplying nearly realtime. In the case of it properly functioning, this number is actually how much power is passing through from the input to the devices and not including the battery as you have said.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


True, it consumes only a minor amount of energy due to line resistance. Unlike devices that are on standby, which consistently draw power for internal clocks and the like. The 354 W of "idle" is my GPU cores at 0%, my CPU cores in full CnQ settings with less than 10% load on each. The 556 W of "load" is my GPU cores at 65%, my CPU cores in their highest multiplier with 100% load on each. To get a "true load," I suppose I need to get both of those GPUs up to 100%. I will try that perhaps when I get home too.


Blitz, this is still with other things plugged into your UPS though. Until you unplug everything else that number may change.


----------



## Blitz6804

I am not disputing that it will not. My concern here is not my actual power draw, but my difference between idle and folding, as this is my actual cost of folding on a regular basis. It is not my idea to regularly unplug this equipment. To do so would constitute an artificially-inflated cost. As I said, for your curiosity though, I will try unplugging everything from the APC but my tower. Then plug the monitor into a powerstrip elsewhere, and take power measurements. (This has the advantage of telling me how much power I am providing to all those other devices.)


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz, no need to unplug anything. My original post from a month ago was just about how much your machine was consuming in terms of power. I thought what you posted was that. Major confusion...

Pez, check your PM's


----------



## nategr8ns

Pio, I hate to say it, but I think you should drop your overclock until the new PSU gets there.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Well I'm thinking of going w/ one 9800GTX+ or a HD 4850 and then going back to XP. I have to get my copy back from my neighbor. Anything to convince me from going back to XP? I mean, selling my Mobo, CPU, and RAM, can get me a very decent AM2+ setup probably that would get rid of my CSS problem.

Hey pez I just got done testing CSS in Win 7 x64 and I'm wondering if all the maps are built with orange boxes?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
Pio, I hate to say it, but I think you should drop your overclock until the new PSU gets there.

I'm patiently waiting with my Dual Pentium 3's







. There's something else going on here, but I'm not daring enough to keep chancing my luck with this 400w PSU. So I figured I'll live with the P3 build for now.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hey pez I just got done testing CSS in Win 7 x64 and I'm wondering if all the maps are built with orange boxes?


N2Gaming, Windows 7 is still in beta so I wouldn't be surprised if you started experiencing odd things like this. Did you by any chance minimize the game while playing?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I'm patiently waiting with my Dual Pentium 3's







. There's something else going on here, but I'm not daring enough to keep chancing my luck with this 400w PSU. So I figured I'll live with the P3 build for now.


Pio, how does the Voodoo 3dFX 16mb card handle websites with flash content? How does the machine feel on the intarweb? That's a sweet nostalgic setup









Good luck guyse


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, Windows 7 is still in beta so I wouldn't be surprised if you started experiencing odd things like this. Did you by any chance minimize the game while playing?

Pio, how does the Voodoo 3dFX 16mb card handle websites with flash content? How does the machine feel on the intarweb? That's a sweet nostalgic setup









Good luck guyse


Meh, for basic internet usage and instant messaging its perfectly fine. I even have Steam installed on it for the time being. Not going to install ANY of my Steam games (duh).


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Meh, for basic internet usage and instant messaging its perfectly fine.


Pio, when scrolling in web pages does it lag/skip any?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pio, when scrolling in web pages does it lag/skip any?


A little tiny bit, but not bad. Imagine running WITHOUT your graphics driver on Windows XP. Its not quite THAT bad, but its a similar feeling. Its definitely smoother than going without a driver, but its not as smooth as any more modern GPU, lol.

EDIT: The lack of 1440x900 bugs me more than the lagging.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I'm patiently waiting with my Dual Pentium 3's







. There's something else going on here, but I'm not daring enough to keep chancing my luck with this 400w PSU. So I figured I'll live with the P3 build for now.


LOL, I've got my dual 
PIII ripped apart right now! Hah damn 720p MKV files skip.








Changed the 5500oc out with a X850 but no change. Just upgraded the rdram to 512mb 4 months ago that stopped the skipping on the lower hd formats. Looks like I may have to retire the board after 6 years or so. I can't even het the 800e to run @ 102! Maybe I'll lap the substrate.

Well gotta get the opty going first. Useing it to test my failed hd's right now. Everything posted fine so I'm happy with that!

Damn TYAN site sux ARS! Can't get the MOBO manual! I'm going to see what king of OC I can get on the TYAN then pop it into the ASSROCK and see what I get there. I'm real happy with this Asrock sata II so hopefully it will OC as good as the Tyan.

If the tyan wins then I am going to do the pci-e 1x mod and see if I can get 3 gpu's to fold on it.

Had to waste a little time researching the 8 pin power connector (wouldn't boot without it) But it boots fine with the 4 pin in there. and the ps I'm useing on my test bech (Antec 300) only has a 20 pin so it's really under powered right now but i'm useing the onboard gpu so no worries there.

If anyone has this board "TYAN TOMCAT K8E S2865" let me know your thoughts. Also I need the manual if anyone has it. Tyans site has all broken links and I keep getting 404's when trying to load pages.


----------



## Blitz6804

I miss my Ultra 3DFX... it was my first 3D video card. (Voodoo 2 was my first video card period.) I wonder if you can force any modern games to run on it... you would give $till LegendaryU2K a run for his money!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


LOL, I've got my dual 
PIII ripped apart right now! Hah damn 720p MKV files skip.








Changed the 5500oc out with a X850 but no change. Just upgraded the rdram to 512mb 4 months ago that stopped the skipping on the lower hd formats. Looks like I may have to retire the board after 6 years or so. I can't even het the 800e to run @ 102! Maybe I'll lap the substrate.

Well gotta get the opty going first. Useing it to test my failed hd's right now. Everything posted fine so I'm happy with that!

Damn TYAN site sux ARS! Can't get the MOBO manual! I'm going to see what king of OC I can get on the TYAN then pop it into the ASSROCK and see what I get there. I'm real happy with this Asrock sata II so hopefully it will OC as good as the Tyan.

If the tyan wins then I am going to do the pci-e 1x mod and see if I can get 3 gpu's to fold on it.

Had to waste a little time researching the 8 pin power connector (wouldn't boot without it) But it boots fine with the 4 pin in there. and the ps I'm useing on my test bech (Antec 300) only has a 20 pin so it's really under powered right now but i'm useing the onboard gpu so no worries there.

If anyone has this board "TYAN TOMCAT K8E S2865" let me know your thoughts. Also I need the manual if anyone has it. Tyans site has all broken links and I keep getting 404's when trying to load pages.


I'm more interesting in that 5500OC card you claim to have there....sounds tasty for a server rig







. Let me know if you ever decide to part with it, I'm a video card short for my file server build (seems my 9250 died in transit).


----------



## Blitz6804

Since no one seems to have seen these, I will repost them:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Cold at 45? How are you going to survive the party in Buffalo next September?

(Again, I reiterate, I will be hosing a party here September 3, 2009. Food is provided. Limited on-premises accommodations are available. Limited alcohol stores are available, I encourage people to bring some with them though. Those not staying on premises should have designated drivers, perhaps, hook up with an underage patron who would not be allowed to drive anyway.)



Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


In other news, do not forget everyone: I am hosting a party for the club September 3rd of this year. People should start looking into airfare starting in March. (Most airlines let you book up to 6 months in advance.) For some, it may be more economical to drive/carpool. Bringing your rig is a good idea (for LAN gaming!) but it is not expected of you. The closest airport to me is the Buffalo Niagara International Airport (BUF), but Rochester (ROC) and Toronto (YYZ) are both possible options, at about a 70-minute drive each.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, Windows 7 is still in beta so I wouldn't be surprised if you started experiencing odd things like this. Did you by any chance minimize the game while playing?

Pio, how does the Voodoo 3dFX 16mb card handle websites with flash content? How does the machine feel on the intarweb? That's a sweet nostalgic setup









Good luck guyse


In fact I touched the windows key to do other tasks and then go back to the game. Why is that not good. I can't figure out how to do many tings in win7 like with xp.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:

(Again, I reiterate, I will be hosing a party here September 3, 2009. Food is provided. Limited on-premises accommodations are available. Limited alcohol stores are available, I encourage people to bring some with them though. Those not staying on premises should have designated drivers, perhaps, hook up with an underage patron who would not be allowed to drive anyway.)
Heh, I'll be a DD for anybody who pays me for gas







.
Hopefully getting a Subaru this summer. I wouldn't mind taking a little road trip down to NY.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, no need to unplug anything. My original post from a month ago was just about how much your machine was consuming in terms of power. I thought what you posted was that. Major confusion...

Pez, check your PM's











Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hey pez I just got done testing CSS in Win 7 x64 and I'm wondering if all the maps are built with orange boxes?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


In fact I touched the windows key to do other tasks and then go back to the game. Why is that not good. I can't figure out how to do many tings in win7 like with xp.


Yeah, thinker I was going more for a trade :/. Also, N2, I'm not so concerned of my max fps, but more of what the minimum FPS was. If windows 7 has done a great improvement, then I'll upgrade to that in a second. My CPU is also at 2.5GHz (refuses to go higher, I literally tried almost everything), so take that into consideration. Ugh, I really don't want to get rid of my 2 cards and start looking to upgrade, but jesus.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Well, I can handle Crysis on all high @ 1440x900 with 2x AA with my Opty and 8800GT. I was hoping for all Ultra High @ 1440x900 with 8800GT SLI. But I may or may not end up going that route now.

Seems something may have been damaged in the Apevia accident afterall. I can't get "stability" even with stock. It still FEELS stable enough, it doesn't crash or BSOD or anything. But it will not pass Orthos / S&M / OCCT, anything! Awaiting my new PSU to test further







.


 Which S&M tests are you failing? If its L1 or FPU you need to up the voltage. I have an internal article from AMD specifically about the Opterons and L1 cache failure. What I gathered from the article, there is a lto of technical info that I honestly dont understand, L1 cache failures are due to a lack of voltage. But too much voltage causes electromigration and dead sectors. And some crap bouncing off something else and doing something. lol.

As for my 4870, well so far Im not impressed. With it maxed in CSS @ 1680x1050 16xaf and for some reason itll only let me set it to 8xmsaa it only got a measly 137 fps. 1 of my GSO's with 16xaa/af everything maxed got 129.








Granted the GSO was with my 3500+ @ 2.6ghz and the 4870 is running with my 165 @ 1.8ghz. It does _seem_ prettier, but I was on a 64 man server to test it out and my fps were dropping really low like 40.








Im planning on d/ling the crysis demo and the benchmark and seeing how it does there. Then Ill OC and see if anything improves. I might swap it around to a different board with the 180 and the corsair and reserve the A8N32 for folding, if I could ever get it to fold with both GPU's


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Since no one seems to have seen these, I will repost them:



Whats going on at your place Sept.3rd? I didnt see the original post....... If youre 70 min from toronto, then......it'd be about a 5 hour drive for me. With gas being as cheap as it is, that wouldnt be that bad.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Yeah, thinker I was going more for a trade :/. Also, N2, I'm not so concerned of my max fps, but more of what the minimum FPS was. If windows 7 has done a great improvement, then I'll upgrade to that in a second. My CPU is also at 2.5GHz (refuses to go higher, I literally tried almost everything), so take that into consideration. Ugh, I really don't want to get rid of my 2 cards and start looking to upgrade, but jesus.


well I was running it on my BNBB system. so the AM2 processor prolly is clocked to more like 3.0 GHz w/o sli. and I noticed the walls are all made out of orange cubes or boxes. I have not tried to update my video card driver yet. I don't want to create more headaches. Hang in there pez. you got two nice cards and you should be able to sli those puppies and be happy w/the performance.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Which S&M tests are you failing? If its L1 or FPU you need to up the voltage. I have an internal article from AMD specifically about the Opterons and L1 cache failure. What I gathered from the article, there is a lto of technical info that I honestly dont understand, L1 cache failures are due to a lack of voltage. But too much voltage causes electromigration and dead sectors. And some crap bouncing off something else and doing something. lol.

As for my 4870, well so far Im not impressed. With it maxed in CSS @ 1680x1050 16xaf and for some reason itll only let me set it to 8xmsaa it only got a measly 137 fps. 1 of my GSO's with 16xaa/af everything maxed got 129.








Granted the GSO was with my 3500+ @ 2.6ghz and the 4870 is running with my 165 @ 1.8ghz. It does _seem_ prettier, but I was on a 64 man server to test it out and my fps were dropping really low like 40.








Im planning on d/ling the crysis demo and the benchmark and seeing how it does there. Then Ill OC and see if anything improves. I might swap it around to a different board with the 180 and the corsair and reserve the A8N32 for folding, if I could ever get it to fold with both GPU's










Are you still running this on XP? If so I think I have now validated my problem.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


well I was running it on my BNBB system. so the AM2 processor prolly is clocked to more like 3.0 GHz w/o sli. and I noticed the walls are all made out of orange cubes or boxes. I have not tried to update my video card driver yet. I don't want to create more headaches. Hang in there pez. you got two nice cards and you should be able to sli those puppies and be happy w/the performance.










I think you may have actually been on a texture map lol...Some maps are made like that.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Are you still running this on XP? If so I think I have now validated my problem.

I think you may have actually been on a texture map lol...Some maps are made like that.


Oh ok it's the first time I ever played it. I just purchased a truck load of games on gogammer.com for good prices. So now I'm testing win 7 with the games. I still can't get quakelive to work for some reason. No I have not tried to remove one of the video cards yet I'm trying to avoid that process ATM.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Are you still running this on XP? If so I think I have now validated my problem..


 Yep still on XP, but I am running @ 1.8. And the server I was on was 66tick and I was consistantly getting 40+ choke no matter what I set my rates to. 
I bet if I OC I should see a noticable improvement, especially with my opty 180. And from what Ive been reading, Valve just released some sort of crappy update to all of the orangebox games killing ATi's framerates. I just read on a different post how a guy went from 130+ to 60 after the update. 
But still you should be seeing better frame rates than that. With one of my GSO's I could run @ 1680x1050 with literlally EVERY setting at max 16xaa/af full bloom lighting and all that, usually 100fps+ except on certain maps like militia itd drop to 50-60 sometimes lower but not often. Mind thats with 1 card not in SLI.
So with your 9800GT you should be seeing better FPS than that especially in XP.


----------



## tweakboy

This is a great thread. socket 939 powned back in the day, and is still a powerful CPU. I remember they came out with the Athlon 64, then Athlon X2 hehe, What was a nice one was my last CPU Athlon XP 3200+ lol


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


As for my 4870, well so far Im not impressed. With it maxed in CSS @ 1680x1050 16xaf and for some reason itll only let me set it to 8xmsaa it only got a measly 137 fps.


Most games will not let you set higher than 8x, such as Crysis. Call of Duty 4 will not let you set it higher than 4x. You can force any AA you want in the Catalyst Control Center. Depending on the card, you can get as high as 32x AA. (Call of Duty 4 is outstandingly beautiful at that, but the FPS is unplayable.)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Whats going on at your place Sept.3rd? I didnt see the original post....... If youre 70 min from toronto, then......it'd be about a 5 hour drive for me. With gas being as cheap as it is, that wouldnt be that bad.


It is a party for my clubmates! Duh? Depending where in Michigan you are will determine the time it takes. If we assume motor city, it is 5 hours to take the 401/403/405 through Canada, 6 hours to stay on the I-90 in the US.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Most games will not let you set higher than 8x, such as Crysis. Call of Duty 4 will not let you set it higher than 4x. You can force any AA you want in the Catalyst Control Center. Depending on the card, you can get as high as 32x AA. (Call of Duty 4 is outstandingly beautiful at that, but the FPS is unplayable.)

It is a party for my clubmates! Duh? Depending where in Michigan you are will determine the time it takes. If we assume motor city, it is 5 hours to take the 401/403/405 through Canada, 6 hours to stay on the I-90 in the US.



Well shoowee! So if I go 100 I can be there in lets say 4hours?







j/k

Well that weird with the games because with my nvidia cards I can set them all the way up to 16x in CSS and TF2, and 32x in quake wars ET, granted its not playable at that setting especialyl if you turn soft particles on, it sure is pretty.







And I would imagine that since I just bought close to the best ATi card out that I should be able to max EVERY game out there and still have good FPS. Hence that was the point of even getting this card. Maybe it is a CPU bottleneck







Ill have to do some benchmarking Ill start with this max the OC bench again then break out the 180 and run er all the way up to 3.0 and see if I get any improvement.

Just so you guys know ICD7 IS SWEET!!!!!! Dropped my temps so far by an average of 7*C load across the board. Both my 3500+ and my opty165


----------



## Blitz6804

It is a driver issue. Like I said, most games do not have the option to turn on more than 8x AA. (The only one I can think of is Civilization 4, which permits you 16x from within game.) Almost all games will permit you to run higher AA from CCC. CoD4 with 32x AA, 16x AF, completely maxed out (every pretty turned on) at 1920x1200 is unplayable. Minimum frame rate is 25, average is around 32.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Yep still on XP, but I am running @ 1.8. And the server I was on was 66tick and I was consistantly getting 40+ choke no matter what I set my rates to. 
I bet if I OC I should see a noticable improvement, especially with my opty 180. And from what Ive been reading, Valve just released some sort of crappy update to all of the orangebox games killing ATi's framerates. I just read on a different post how a guy went from 130+ to 60 after the update. 
But still you should be seeing better frame rates than that. With one of my GSO's I could run @ 1680x1050 with literlally EVERY setting at max 16xaa/af full bloom lighting and all that, usually 100fps+ except on certain maps like militia itd drop to 50-60 sometimes lower but not often. Mind thats with 1 card not in SLI.
So with your 9800GT you should be seeing better FPS than that especially in XP.


Yeah, see that validates what I've been trying to prove. CPU speed is king when it comes to CS:S. In CS:S with XP, I think the lowest I'd drop was maybe 80-90 with these in SLI (I think it actually was working in SLI, just not showing in the Nvidia Control Panel). But Vista is a different story. Sad thing is, I can't get this CPU to budge.


----------



## nategr8ns

It's a 9 hour drive from the Portland area in Maine to Buffalo. There's no way I'm driving the speed limit







.


----------



## Blitz6804

The problem is that the I-90 swings South to hit Boston. If it stayed straight from Albany on over your trip would be much shorter. The speed limit on the NYS Thruway is 65 MPH. Google estimates I can do my 480 mile trip between Buffalo and Long Island in 8 hours. My record is 6, my usual around 7.25.

The only issue (for some) is that September weather up here is wildly unpredictable. Temperatures can range from 23Âº F with snow up through 95Âº with 85% humidity. Granted, since it is just barely September, the latter is far more likely than the former.

For those of you close enough to drive, please bring a rig and monitor.

For those of you flying, it is great if you can bring your rig and an LCD. I only have two spare monitors, a 15" 1024x768 CRT and a 19" 640x480 CRT. Neither of which are fun to game on. Also, if we are short one rig, I have one spare computer that can run CoD4, Crysis, and in fact, almost any game I throw at it.


----------



## nategr8ns

I was playing around in google maps for a bit. I can't believe there are no big highways cutting west/east across NH. What's the speed limit on route 2? Anybody drive it recently?

It takes about 1.5-2 hours with minimal traffic to get from my house to the Lowell area. I may try to make it in an hour







.


----------



## Blitz6804

Please remember all club members: excess speeds are serious business. (1) They waste gas. The average car uses more fuel at 75 than at 65. The average car uses much more at 85 then at 75. (2) They are against the law. (3) They are very dangerous.

I encourage you all to at least try to observe the posted speeds such that we all arrive in Amherst safely.

(For the record Nate, WEST* of the 495, MA-2 has a speed limit of 55.)


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I'm more interesting in that 5500OC card you claim to have there....sounds tasty for a server rig







. *Let me know if you ever decide to part with it*, I'm a video card short for my file server build (seems my 9250 died in transit).












Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Since no one seems to have seen these, I will repost them:












Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Heh, I'll be a DD for anybody who pays me for gas







.
Hopefully getting a Subaru this summer. I wouldn't mind taking a little road trip down to NY.












Quote:



Originally Posted by *tweakboy*


What was a nice one was my last CPU Athlon XP 3200+ lol






























































Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Please remember all club members: excess speeds are serious business. (1) They waste gas. The average car uses more fuel at 75 than at 65. The average car uses much more at 85 then at 75. (2) They are against the law. (3) They are very dangerous.

I encourage you all to at least try to observe the posted speeds such that we all arrive in Amherst safely.

(For the record Nate, East of the 495, MA-2 has a speed limit of 55.)




















































:sonic :


----------



## pez

Hmmm, got in some CoD4. Raged a bit at playing hardcore and people camping...lame. I need something fast paced. Too bad I'm broke. *sigh*


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
(For the record Nate, East of the 495, MA-2 has a speed limit of 55.)

What about West of 495? 295->95->495 is pretty much the route from me to anywhere I go in Mass. I was thinking, depending on the road size and speed limit, 2 would be a nice cut from 495 to Rt 90.


----------



## pez

Ok, so I've been offered an HD 4850 that benches within 5% of a HD 4870. I'm highly considering this, but I want opinions from the club members:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *d3v0*
*TEST SETUP:*

_*Gigabyte P35-DS3L Rev 2.0 Pencil Vmodded
Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 @ 3.6ghz
G. Skill PI DDR2 1000mhz 5-5-5-15
WD Raptor X 150gb
Corsair HX620
Windows Vista Ultimate x64*_

Driver versions:

HD4850VMOD: Xtreme_G 8.12 @775/1175
HD4870 512mb: Xtreme_G 8.12

*Tests:
*
*3DMark01 SE*
-Stock settings

HD4850VMOD: 49117
*HD4870: 50965*

*3DMark03*
-Stock settings

HD4850VMOD: 49958
*HD4870: 50883*

*3DMark05*
-1680x1050 res

HD4850VMOD: 19921
*HD4870: 20807*

*3DMark06*
-Stock settings

HD4850VMOD: 15414
*HD4870: 15601*

*3DMark Vantage*
-Performance preset GPU score

HD4850VMOD: 8444
*Hd4870: 8539*

*Furmark Benchmark*
-1680x1050, 60s o3marks score

*HD4850VMOD: 3258*
HD4870: 3084]

*Crysis GPU Benchmark*
-1680x1050, All HIGH, 2xAA, 64bit DX10 AVG FPS

HD4850VMOD: 35.65
*HD4870: 36.23*

*FEAR Benchmark*
-1680x1050 4xAA 16xAF All maximum settings AVG FPS

HD4850VMOD: 105
*HD4870: 126*

*Far Cry 2*
-1680x1050, DX9, Ultra High, 4xAA

HD4850VMOD: 26.8
*HD4870: 28.69*

*** Just wait til you see my full listing of my benchmark spreadsheet, it has over a dozen GPUs







***

I bolded the victor, which was clearly the 4870. But by how much? In every test but fear, it was by 5% or less.

This will run quieter and consume less power. I sold my 4870 as soon as these benches were done because I was so disappointed.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


In fact I touched the windows key to do other tasks and then go back to the game. Why is that not good. I can't figure out how to do many tings in win7 like with xp.


N2Gaming, was there any issues on screen before you tabbed out? This sometimes happens to me if I alt-tab out to do something else. It's very noticeable in Source games.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Please remember all club members: excess speeds are serious business. (1) They waste gas. The average car uses more fuel at 75 than at 65. The average car uses much more at 85 then at 75. (2) They are against the law. (3) They are very dangerous.

I encourage you all to at least try to observe the posted speeds such that we all arrive in Amherst safely.

(For the record Nate, East of the 495, MA-2 has a speed limit of 55.)


Blitz, are you now the unofficial internet road police?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, are you now the unofficial internet road police?










If he is, thlnk3r, then I know I'm safe.









He never could catch me when we used to play RACE07 together.









Then there's that lunatic pioneerdoesdonutsandhitsyouheadon...









(Sorry, guys, couldn't resist the OT jabber.







)


----------



## Blitz6804

Sorry Nate, I meant to say WEST of I-495 (typo has been fixed... although thlnki3 quoted it for all eternity...). East of I-495 is 45 for about 3 towns, and then back up to 55. (Not that it matters, you will not be on it.)

pez: I again suggest that you leave your nVidia cards alone at this time. I know you like Crysis, and in my experience, HD 48xx perform abysmally compared to nVidia products.

Joe: You have played the game far more than I have. Let us see how you do against me in Gran Turismo...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Joe: You have played the game far more than I have. Let us see how you do against me in Gran Turismo...


Blitz, as long as there isn't any driver aids because those are for newbs. Things like traction control and what not. Who uses those anyways?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Joe: You have played the game far more than I have. Let us see how you do against me in Gran Turismo...

Buy me the console; I'll buy the game.

I'll still layeth the smacketh down on ye.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz, as long as there isn't any driver aids because those are for newbs. Things like traction control and what not. Who uses those anyways?

















Omilord, that is KLASSIK.


----------



## Blitz6804

It could also be a hardware difference... my vehicle in Gran Turismo (3 or 4) puts out a fuzz over 1000 HP. Stage 4 Turbo for the win!?

When you get here in September joe, just buy another disc, and we are good to go. (I have two consoles; LAN play should work.)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
It could also be a hardware difference... my vehicle in Gran Turismo (3 or 4) puts out a fuzz over 1000 HP. Stage 4 Turbo for the win!?

To quote an old Pirelli advert tag line: Power is nothing without control.









Gran Turismo is as realistic as I am built like a real-life F1 driver.

Which is, to say, not at all.


----------



## Blitz6804

GT5's physics are not bad. Its a much better simulator than an arcade racer like, say, Ridge Racer 7. (I dominate in that too, but considering it is an arcade racer, I do not expect you to touch it.) My biggest complaint with Race07 is how underpowered all the cars feel.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
My biggest complaint with Race07 is how underpowered all the cars feel.

Blitz, underpowered? What do you consider underpowered?


----------



## Blitz6804

When I have the car doing about 120, it feels like I am in a real car doing about 40. The whole racer just feels... sluggish? It is not so much the speed/acceleration, which are in scale to each other, as much as driver velocitization I suppose.


----------



## N2Gaming

I just wanted to share a DFI SLI DR Expert mobo sale that is not mine nor am i selling it but I just wanted you all to watch how the price goes from $70.00 to like $120.00 in the last 10 seconds of bidding.







It never fails. maybe this time no one is bidding snd some one will get it for a decent price.


----------



## Blitz6804

You know, I have never had the pleasure of trying an nForce4 board... *Sets maximum bid to $250.*


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I just wanted to share a DFI SLI DR Expert mobo sale that is not mine nor am i selling it but I just wanted you all to watch how the price goes from $70.00 to like $120.00 in the last 10 seconds of bidding.







It never fails. maybe this time no one is bidding snd some one will get it for a decent price.


still a dang good price. I seen one the other day for $285 brand spanking new......an Expert!.....new!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


still a dang good price. I seen one the other day for $285 brand spanking new......an Expert!.....new!


If you look there is a couple of them foating around on ebay right now. one of them has a replaaced chipset fan. I suspect it's not worth buyin since the buy now price is only $51.00 but never the less some one could end up with a nice expert board for $51.00 plus s/h. That's if it's any good.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


You know, I have never had the pleasure of trying an nForce4 board... *Sets maximum bid to $250.*


Tell me your joking. I don't think it even comes with the audio riser. Tis missing some accessories. that's a little high. for a used board. if your willing to go that High then I'm willing to part with one.









edit: my bad does have audio.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


If you look there is a couple of them foating around on ebay right now. one of them has a replaaced chipset fan. I suspect it's not worth buyin since the buy now price is only $51.00 but never the less some one could end up with a nice expert board for $51.00 plus s/h. That's if it's any good.


N2Gaming, these are great boards. I've been debating on whether or not selling my SLI-DR. Kind of up in the air about it right now. In any case, it does 300HTT on stock chipset voltage. The BIOS has so many features I still haven't gone through everything









Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

yeah I still have not any time to play with my exper board as the sli dr is working like a champ w/opty 180 for me.







mobo get a little hot I'm hoping the a8n32 sli deluxe will take care of that though.

Edit: I think mine started to cry at 320 on stock volt's


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, these are great boards. I've been debating on whether or not selling my SLI-DR. Kind of up in the air about it right now. In any case, it does 300HTT on stock chipset voltage. The BIOS has so many features I still haven't gone through everything









Good luck


I really think you should hang on to it. Mine will hit 340-350 with a voltage increase. There are not a lot of those sweet Mobo's floating around for 939.


----------



## N2Gaming

some one just got it for $76.00 not bad if it's any good.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


It is a driver issue. Like I said, most games do not have the option to turn on more than 8x AA. (The only one I can think of is Civilization 4, which permits you 16x from within game.) Almost all games will permit you to run higher AA from CCC. CoD4 with 32x AA, 16x AF, completely maxed out (every pretty turned on) at 1920x1200 is unplayable. Minimum frame rate is 25, average is around 32.


 Im not so sure about that blitz. I was doing some digging about the 4870's and poor performance and I found that there was some bad BIOSes on some of the boards. Specifically the sapphire cards, the borked BIOS would cause SUPER slow frame rates at resolutions as low as 1440x800 with no AA or anything. 
At anyrate I got my 165 stable @ 2.3ghz and it would seem the faster I get my CPU going the more my framerates go up. And get this, according to the crysis benchmark the difference for me between no aa and 16xqsaa is about 1 fps @ 16:10 with everything set to high. Im not sure if this is a demo thing or not but it wont let me set it to ultra high settings.








Also, have you messed around with the Catalyst AI? Ive heard disabling it dramatically improves framerates. But you get better image quality with with it set to advanced. I might play around with it some more and see what happens. 
1 more thing, do you know of a way to display FPS and whatnot on screen during gaming similar to Evga's precision tool? Thats always helpful.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


When I have the car doing about 120, it feels like I am in a real car doing about 40. The whole racer just feels... sluggish? It is not so much the speed/acceleration, which are in scale to each other, as much as driver velocitization I suppose.



This is exactly how GT3 felt to me after playing GT1/2. The speedo says 200 yet it looks like Im doing 55, that and they screwed teh Escudo up SOOOO bad in GT3 I was very disappointed.







But in GT2 Ive got 95 cars and over $40,000,000







I played teh crap outta that game.

Pez, Ive gotten my framerates up again in CSS to the 130+fps mark with occaisional dips below 100, but then again I have everything forced in catalyst for max quality.


----------



## Blitz6804

Ultra high in Crysis requires DirectX 10. And it figures, I have a Sapphire board... why should I have any luck buying PC parts?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I was doing some digging about the 4870's and poor performance and I found that there was some bad BIOSes on some of the boards. Specifically the sapphire cards, the borked BIOS would cause SUPER slow frame rates at resolutions as low as 1440x800 with no AA or anything.


Omega, do you know which branded cards and revisions were experiencing these issues? This is the first I've heard about this. It would be interesting to know.

Thanks


----------



## BlackOmega

I cant find the link again, I found it earlier on either techpowerup or extremeoverlocking forums. I believe its only on the 512mb version, but it seems like a lot of the 1gb boards are having issues. If I recall correctly, something along the lines of V2 cards. I bet if you got to the sapphire website itll be there.

Its more than likely bad drivers as I had to roll mine back to 8.10 so my screen doesnt flicker and bounce. I even tried the 9.1 drivers that were just released to no avail. Same result. I am somewhat disappointed with the card to tell you guys honestly. I figured Id buy an AMD based product to kind of help the underdog, but at more than 4x the price of my GSO's, I dont think I am getting 4x the performance. Its on par in some stuff and slightly better in others (crysis), I am still debating wether I should return it or not.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, as long as there isn't any driver aids because those are for newbs. Things like traction control and what not. Who uses those anyways?










*raises hand slowly*

I'm all for some GT3! Didn't like 4 so much...
I don't own a PS2, but one summer at my cousin's house when he got it we spent forever getting the first license. I got stuck on the next license trying to go around a circle, after it rained, in a certain amount of time... So hard!

I wish they'd make one of the older GTs for PC...


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Im not so sure about that blitz. I was doing some digging about the 4870's and poor performance and I found that there was some bad BIOSes on some of the boards. Specifically the sapphire cards, the borked BIOS would cause SUPER slow frame rates at resolutions as low as 1440x800 with no AA or anything.
At anyrate I got my 165 stable @ 2.3ghz and it would seem the faster I get my CPU going the more my framerates go up. And get this, according to the crysis benchmark the difference for me between no aa and 16xqsaa is about 1 fps @ 16:10 with everything set to high. Im not sure if this is a demo thing or not but it wont let me set it to ultra high settings.








Also, have you messed around with the Catalyst AI? Ive heard disabling it dramatically improves framerates. But you get better image quality with with it set to advanced. I might play around with it some more and see what happens.
1 more thing, do you know of a way to display FPS and whatnot on screen during gaming similar to Evga's precision tool? Thats always helpful.

This is exactly how GT3 felt to me after playing GT1/2. The speedo says 200 yet it looks like Im doing 55, that and they screwed teh Escudo up SOOOO bad in GT3 I was very disappointed.







But in GT2 Ive got 95 cars and over $40,000,000







I played teh crap outta that game.

Pez, Ive gotten my framerates up again in CSS to the 130+fps mark with occaisional dips below 100, but then again I have everything forced in catalyst for max quality.

I use to play need for spd on the ps1 and the cars were like so fast that my eye's would get tired after about 30 min from not blinking becuase I did not want to crash. I usually crashed if I blink and miss that much time on the course while blind.

I have probably already asked this but how do I open up a window while playing css and other games to determine my fps while in game play?


----------



## Blitz6804

Open the console and type "net_graph 3".


----------



## BlackOmega

N2, download Evgas precision tool. When you go to set it up you can there'll be a tab with certain features like display core clock mem clocl fps temp etc. Click on the fps tab, then down towads the bottom click on show in sys tray and onscreen, I did that with teh temps also.

But in CSS, enable your console (option, keyboard, advanced) then in console you can either type show_fps 1, and thatll display JUST the fps. Or you can type in net_graph 3 and thatll display your ping, packet loss, choke, and the server rate so you can determine if its 100 tick 66 etc. If you use net_graph, type in net_graphpos 5 that'll move it to the lower left part of the screen so you can see how much $$$ you've got.

Also, a couple of things to improve your connection to the server, in console type: rate 30000, cl_updaterate 100, cl_cmdrate 100. Rate sets your connection speed, the other 2 set how fast your computer sends and receives information packets. Both will help you have a better overall connection to the server.


----------



## N2Gaming

fires up rig and starts testing newly found knowledge.


----------



## Hueristic

LMAO! Playing Need For Speed HS right now with a freind! I had to take a break was getting stressed out! Damn tracks in the dark with headlights smashed out were pissing me off!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


LMAO! Playing Need For Speed HS right now with a freind! I had to take a break was getting stressed out! Damn tracks in the dark with headlights smashed out were pissing me off!


Got this and never use it maybe I should. Usually by the time I get my logitech wingman rumblepad configured I'm already frustrated to the point that I don't want to play it any more.


----------



## Hueristic

Dude' we are playing high stakes right now! load it up and jion us!
patch 4.50


----------



## Blitz6804

I had and loved Need For Speed 2, Need For Speed 3: Hot Pursuit, and Need For Speed 4: High Stakes. The problem is that none of them ran on my Skt 939 rig, nevermind my AM2. (Driver support lacking.) One of these days I will get around to trying it on my Barton.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I had and loved Need For Speed 2, Need For Speed 3: Hot Pursuit, and Need For Speed 4: High Stakes. The problem is that none of them ran on my Skt 939 rig, nevermind my AM2. (Driver support lacking.) One of these days I will get around to trying it on my Barton.


??? I'm running it on 2 939 systems right now.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Dude' we are playing high stakes right now! load it up and jion us!
patch 4.50


Ok I'll try it in win 7 give me a few...


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Ok I'll try it in win 7 give me a few...



















Anyone else want in load it up if you got it! It may even be abondonware by now.


----------



## Blitz6804

It would only work in Software Render mode, not hardware.


----------



## nategr8ns

Guys, three new Need For Speed titles planned for 2009:
NFS: Shift (realistic: made by team of GTR 2 and GT Legends) ETA: Fall
NFS: Nitro (Nintendo only) ETA: Fall
NFS: World Online (Free, PC exclusive, and online only) ETA: Summer in Asia.

Source


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


It would only work in Software Render mode, not hardware.


Ohh, yeah I had thAT problem with the X850, I had to use one of my folders for my buddie.

Weird in NFSIII Hot Pursuit it works fine but NFSIII High stakes (which have the same engines) it won't work in hardware mode?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Guys, three new Need For Speed titles planned for 2009:
NFS: Shift (realistic: made by team of GTR 2 and GT Legends) ETA: Fall
NFS: Nitro (Nintendo only) ETA: Fall
NFS: World Online (Free, PC exclusive, and online only) ETA: Summer in Asia.

Source


Well I personally haven't liked the NFS since High stakes because IIRC the next one underground didn't have lan games you had to all connect to the internet.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


















Anyone else want in load it up if you got it! It may even be abondonware by now.


ok i cant download cars. still trying to get inton gameplay but i dont want to drive a silly little z5


----------



## N2Gaming

OK it's working now what do I have to do to join.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


ok i cant download cars. still trying to get inton gameplay but i dont want to drive a silly little z5


I can't either I think the server is gone. We don't need gamespy. We can direct ip connect. But I need to know which ports to forward. I'll find out right now.


----------



## N2Gaming




----------



## nategr8ns

If I had the game I'd play with you, but I don't really want to "get" the game right now.
I wonder if that "version" of the game would let me play with you guys over the internet?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


If I had the game I'd play with you, but I don't really want to "get" the game right now.
I wonder if that "version" of the game would let me play with you guys over the internet?


I got it with an old ati card (rage 32) I think. It's probally abandoneware right now. Look around.

OK myrouter is setup and I'm starting a server I am pming you my ip N2Gamer.


----------



## pez

So someone want to offer to downclock to 2.5ghz in Vista and tell me how their minimum fps does in CS:S? I think Vista just might not be getting along w/ my mobo. That's the only other bottleneck I see. *sigh*


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
So someone want to offer to downclock to 2.5ghz in Vista and tell me how their minimum fps does in CS:S? I think Vista just might not be getting along w/ my mobo. That's the only other bottleneck I see. *sigh*

LOL, I can't OC to over 2.38!!!

Why do you need over 100fps anyway? I've always been happy if the minimum was above 30.


----------



## Tator Tot

I ran CS:s @ Stock and 1 HD2600 with a min FPS of 50. @ 1680x1050 (before my LCD died) and then at 1280x1024


----------



## Blitz6804

If I remember right, Pez's average is fine. However, his minimum periodically drops sub-30 causing it to sputter.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
LOL, I can't OC to over 2.38!!!

Why do you need over 100fps anyway? I've always been happy if the minimum was above 30.























Yeah pez said he likes fast game play with the comment of hating campers. I'm wondering if Pez is or ever has been on ridolin or how ever it's spelled. I'm not trying to make you look bad just joking w/u


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Yeah pez said he likes fast game play with the comment of hating campers. I'm wondering if Pez is or ever has been on ridolin or how ever it's spelled. I'm not trying to make you look bad just joking w/u












































:c heers:


----------



## N2Gaming

drinks second and twiddles thumbs


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


drinks second and twiddles thumbs


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Yeah pez said he likes fast game play with the comment of hating campers. I'm wondering if Pez is or ever has been on ridolin or how ever it's spelled. I'm not trying to make you look bad just joking w/u



Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


If I remember right, Pez's average is fine. However, his minimum periodically drops sub-30 causing it to sputter.


Blitz is right. My average is like 120 at this res, but the minimum is just utter failure, and blitz and I have gone through quite a bit trying to figure out what's going on to no avail. It's not PSU, as it's happened with either PSU I've had. Not video card driver problems. Happened w/ my X800XL, 8600GT, and 9800GT, and SLI'd 9800GT's. It's not the RAM, b/c it's done it with 2 gigs of mixed RAM, 2 gigs of DDR500, and even 4 gigs of DDR500 (which is completely stable BTW). It's not a monitor problem. Did it with 1680x1050, and 1280x1024. I mean, it def. can't be a GFX driver problem. Especially when my minimum in CoD4 is maybe 45, and my avg is about 70-90, and my max is 200. I'm truly out of answers. I kinda wanna install Windows 7, but idk, I don't think it would make a difference.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Blitz is right. My average is like 120 at this res, but the minimum is just utter failure, and blitz and I have gone through quite a bit trying to figure out what's going on to no avail. It's not PSU, as it's happened with either PSU I've had. Not video card driver problems. Happened w/ my X800XL, 8600GT, and 9800GT, and SLI'd 9800GT's. It's not the RAM, b/c it's done it with 2 gigs of mixed RAM, 2 gigs of DDR500, and even 4 gigs of DDR500 (which is completely stable BTW). It's not a monitor problem. Did it with 1680x1050, and 1280x1024. I mean, it def. can't be a GFX driver problem. Especially when my minimum in CoD4 is maybe 45, and my avg is about 70-90, and my max is 200. I'm truly out of answers. I kinda wanna install Windows 7, but idk, I don't think it would make a difference.


Sounds like it could be your host.


----------



## nategr8ns

Hey Hue, random off topic question: Why don't you always use your keyboard? I saw a post a while ago where you said you had to pull out your keyboard to answer.
Just curious is all







.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Hey Hue, random off topic question: Why don't you always use your keyboard? I saw a post a while ago where you said you had to pull out your keyboard to answer.
Just curious is all







.


Has to do with my setup and my back, Sometimes I can't move to reach it.

Getting old and broken blows chunks!!!!


----------



## N2Gaming

GF just got home from work & supprised me w/a 20 pack of bullets in the bottle cold none the less.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


GF just got home from work & supprised me w/a 20 pack of bullets in the bottle cold none the less.










SWEET, She gotta sister?! I'm drinking Extra Gold!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


SWEET, She gotta sister?! I'm drinking Extra Gold!


Eh well drinking wine is her thing and she only has 4 bor's.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Just a friendly reminder, guys, to try and not get too off-topic too much.


----------



## nategr8ns

speaking of off topic, joe, what play is that under your name?
I was a Half-Back







.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Just a friendly reminder, guys, to try and not get too off-topic too much.




























































:sozo :



































:whistl e:


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


speaking of off topic, joe, what play is that under your name?
I was a Half-Back







.


well he's smiling and no teeth gaurd in so he must have just made a really good play

Sorry txt'r


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Well-played, Hue.









It's okay we have *some* OT in here (I'm guilty of that, for sure), but I just don't want a repeat of an incident not too long ago when a mod (someone with a big banhammer) came in here and thrashed us for getting far too OT. I'd rather not have a repeat, know what I mean?









For nate, it's basically a pass to the HB, who is lined up strong-side with the FB behind the QB. The HB runs towards the sideline at a 45 degree angle (basically starts out as an Arrow route), then cuts back towards the middle of the field as he passes the LOS. Z is your Flanker; he runs a 10-12 yard Hook In. The TE runs a route that attacks the middle of the field (skinny post, or inside seam); he's supposed to clear the middle of the field, or be a vertical receiver up the field.

QB reads the middle of the field (the Mike, especially); if Mike goes after Y, QB hits HB on the Texas; if the Mike stays with the HB, QB reads the SS; if he goes with the Y, QB hits the flanker. Five-step hold drop for the QB. Excellent for ball-control.









(That's my last OT post for today.







)


----------



## Blitz6804

So Joe... you gonna get that DFI up and running finally?


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Sounds like it could be your host.

I don't think so, b/c w/ XP it was just fine. CURSE Vista.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
I don't think so, b/c w/ XP it was just fine. CURSE Vista.

you were able to sli with xp?


----------



## pez

No, but my minimum FPS wasn't even 60, it was like 70 fps was minimum. If I could have a minimum of 60 FPS in CSS, I'd be happy. And I wouldn't ***** so much lol.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey txtr I was just thinking. One good reason for having about 3 more rigs running is for tesing games on diff os's and how you can or can't use certain features in diff os's on diff rig's. Your prolly wondering why I said this. Well becuase I remember you saying that you have a lot of computer parts like me.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey Hue, how's those 939's treating you in NFS HS


----------



## BlackOmega

Well I am shocked and amazed. How can a $275 video card with more ram and a higher bit interface do _WORSE_ than a $65 card with less ram and a lower bit interface. It just doesnt make any sense to me. I cant believe how badly this thing does. My score in 3dm06 is lower than 1 of my GSO's, same with 3dm03. I cant believe that its bottlenecking that badly. I mean if my GSO's does better, and if this card was bottlenecked that bad I'd imagine that it would do just as well considering how much more power this thing supposedly has. 
I think Im going to bust out my opty 180, run it @ 3.0 and see how it does. But somehow I dont think it'll be all that great. 
Man, I am seriously disappointed


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well I am shocked and amazed. How can a $275 video card with more ram and a higher bit interface do _WORSE_ than a $65 card with less ram and a lower bit interface. It just doesnt make any sense to me. I cant believe how badly this thing does. My score in 3dm06 is lower than 1 of my GSO's, same with 3dm03. I cant believe that its bottlenecking that badly. I mean if my GSO's does better, and if this card was bottlenecked that bad I'd imagine that it would do just as well considering how much more power this thing supposedly has. 
I think Im going to bust out my opty 180, run it @ 3.0 and see how it does. But somehow I dont think it'll be all that great. 
Man, I am seriously disappointed










It makes sense if your trying to compare a card designed for pcie 2.0 vs on designed for pcie1.? and the software was written for such hardware.


----------



## Blitz6804

The problem with 3DMark06: It is HEAVILY slanted in nVidia's favor. Comparing an nVidia to an ATi via 3DMark06 would be like comparing an Intel to an AMD via SuperPi: horribly biased.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Well I am shocked and amazed. How can a $275 video card with more ram and a higher bit interface do _WORSE_ than a $65 card with less ram and a lower bit interface. It just doesnt make any sense to me. I cant believe how badly this thing does. My score in 3dm06 is lower than 1 of my GSO's, same with 3dm03. I cant believe that its bottlenecking that badly. I mean if my GSO's does better, and if this card was bottlenecked that bad I'd imagine that it would do just as well considering how much more power this thing supposedly has.
I think Im going to bust out my opty 180, run it @ 3.0 and see how it does. But somehow I dont think it'll be all that great.
Man, I am seriously disappointed









If you're seriously thinking about going back to SLI, then hit me up. I'm looking for an HD 4870. I'd love to give you two cards for one card. It'll save me a lot of trouble when upgrading.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
So Joe... you gonna get that DFI up and running finally?

Which DFI?

I have several that are currently awaiting the day when I have the time and wherewithal to devote to them enough of my love and attention.









Interested in buying one from me, perhaps?


----------



## Blitz6804

Your CFX-3200... I might be interested in taking that from you if you do not want the headache anymore....


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well I am shocked and amazed. How can a $275 video card with more ram and a higher bit interface do _WORSE_ than a $65 card with less ram and a lower bit interface. It just doesnt make any sense to me. I cant believe how badly this thing does. My score in 3dm06 is lower than 1 of my GSO's, same with 3dm03. I cant believe that its bottlenecking that badly. I mean if my GSO's does better, and if this card was bottlenecked that bad I'd imagine that it would do just as well considering how much more power this thing supposedly has. 
I think Im going to bust out my opty 180, run it @ 3.0 and see how it does. But somehow I dont think it'll be all that great. 
Man, I am seriously disappointed










BlackOmega, what kind of performance are you getting with the 4870? What was your 3DMark06 score? I'm pretty sure Joe ran 3DMark06 on his 4870 as well. Maybe you guys can compare the two? I honestly truly think our rigs are just to slow for these cards. I didn't see one bit of a difference between both my 3850 and 4850.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I can attest to that Thlnk3r. One HD 4870x2 was 6% of two HD 3850s. Granted, the real-world FPS is more than double, the point still stands. 3DMark06 is a very CPU-centric benchmark. Vantage is a better test in my opinion. Rather than having SM2.0, SM3.0, and CPU, all of which are based on your CPU, Vantage has a GPU score and a CPU score. Your overall is the average of the two.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hey Hue, how's those 939's treating you in NFS HS


Cranking along nicely.









U get the patch installed yet? we're takeing a pizza break right now. Could use some competition!


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz, regardless of which benchmark is used it would be nice to see a comparison. If he's several thousand points below from the average score for his card/setup then obviously there is a problem.

Good luck


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, regardless of which benchmark is used it would be nice to see a comparison. If he's several thousand points below from the average score for his card/setup then obviously there is a problem.

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

My rig at 2.8GHz scored 10582 on 3DMark06. All clocks stock on the GPU, for the record.


----------



## pez

So, it's official. Vista/7 + 2.4/2.5GHz X2 + CS:S = fail. Desert helped me out even though we run different setups, but our CPU is nearly the same and we've determined that CPU speed is king in CS:S for Vista/7. *sigh* AM2+, here I come.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


My rig at 2.8GHz scored 10582 on 3DMark06. All clocks stock on the GPU, for the record.


I'm afraid of 3dmark06!!!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, what kind of performance are you getting with the 4870? What was your 3DMark06 score? I'm pretty sure Joe ran 3DMark06 on his 4870 as well. Maybe you guys can compare the two? I honestly truly think our rigs are just to slow for these cards. I didn't see one bit of a difference between both my 3850 and 4850.

Good luck










thanks thinker that is what I thought when I posted this

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


It makes sense if your trying to compare a card designed for pcie 2.0 vs on designed for pcie1.? and the software was written for such hardware.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


It makes sense if your trying to compare a card designed for pcie 2.0 vs on designed for pcie1.? and the software was written for such hardware.



Technically my GSO's are PCIe2.0, aside from that the difference is pretty negligable when comparing the 2 I've read some benchmarks where it was less than 5-6% difference.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


If you're seriously thinking about going back to SLI, then hit me up. I'm looking for an HD 4870. I'd love to give you two cards for one card. It'll save me a lot of trouble when upgrading.


 Im actually looking for a single card solution, and I can still return it and I was just looking and I can get a GTX285 +farcry2 and COD5 for $344 shipped, also XFX. So if you consider the games cost $49.99 each the card is actually only $244.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, what kind of performance are you getting with the 4870? What was your 3DMark06 score? I'm pretty sure Joe ran 3DMark06 on his 4870 as well. Maybe you guys can compare the two? I honestly truly think our rigs are just to slow for these cards. I didn't see one bit of a difference between both my 3850 and 4850.

Good luck










 OK so heres some comparisons. Rig1: DFI lanparty 3500+ @ 2.6ghz, 1 9600GSO stock clocks, 2gb corsair. CSS: 16:10 Everything maxed 16xAA/AF :129.05 FPS, Crysis:16:10 no AA everything set to high 15.86fps (and you guys know I can get 25fps), 3dm03- 19608, 3dmark06-4988. With my opty 180 + 1 GSO its right around 9500. In SLI its closer to 11k
Rig 2: Asus A8n32SLIdeluxe, opty 165 @ 2,3ghz, 4870 1gb (btw this is the OC'd XXX version), 2gb hyperx. CSS:16:10 everything max 8xMSAA, 16xAF-137.13fps. Crysis: 16:10 everything set to high 16xQAA - 26.20 fps. And the difference between AA and no AA using the crysis benchmark was a 1-2 fps increase. 3Dm03-18497, 3dm06-9021.

So as you see the results are less than stellar. Considering that the bandwidth is double and it has more ram I was expecting it to do considerably better. Close to on par with my GSO's in SLI. According to the benchmarks it should be right around that. Ill set my opty 180 up on the DFI NF4 board with the corsair RAM so that way I can do a more accurate benchmark where the only difference will be the video card and HDD.

Joe, is your 4870 512? I dont recall seeing a Visiontek 1gb version.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

BlackOmega, yes, the HD4870 is 512MB. Silly me got it within a few days of release.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Im actually looking for a single card solution, and I can still return it and I was just looking and I can get a GTX285 +farcry2 and COD5 for $344 shipped, also XFX. So if you consider the games cost $49.99 each the card is actually only $244.

Ill set my opty 180 up on the DFI NF4 board with the corsair RAM so that way I can do a more accurate benchmark where the only difference will be the video card and HDD.

Joe, is your 4870 512? I dont recall seeing a Visiontek 1gb version.

Games are a not the way I prefer to save on vid cards. the lowest price usually works for me

I'd like to see your dfi results


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Technically my GSO's are PCIe2.0, aside from that the difference is pretty negligable when comparing the 2 I've read some benchmarks where it was less than 5-6% difference.

Im actually looking for a single card solution, and I can still return it and I was just looking and I can get a GTX285 +farcry2 and COD5 for $344 shipped, also XFX. So if you consider the games cost $49.99 each the card is actually only $244.

OK so heres some comparisons. Rig1: DFI lanparty 3500+ @ 2.6ghz, 1 9600GSO stock clocks, 2gb corsair. CSS: 16:10 Everything maxed 16xAA/AF :129.05 FPS, Crysis:16:10 no AA everything set to high 15.86fps (and you guys know I can get 25fps), 3dm03- 19608, 3dmark06-4988. With my opty 180 + 1 GSO its right around 9500. In SLI its closer to 11k
Rig 2: Asus A8n32SLIdeluxe, opty 165 @ 2,3ghz, 4870 1gb (btw this is the OC'd XXX version), 2gb hyperx. CSS:16:10 everything max 8xMSAA, 16xAF-137.13fps. Crysis: 16:10 everything set to high 16xQAA - 26.20 fps. And the difference between AA and no AA using the crysis benchmark was a 1-2 fps increase. 3Dm03-18497, 3dm06-9021.

So as you see the results are less than stellar. Considering that the bandwidth is double and it has more ram I was expecting it to do considerably better. Close to on par with my GSO's in SLI. According to the benchmarks it should be right around that. Ill set my opty 180 up on the DFI NF4 board with the corsair RAM so that way I can do a more accurate benchmark where the only difference will be the video card and HDD.

Joe, is your 4870 512? I dont recall seeing a Visiontek 1gb version.

*sigh*, I was hoping I could get you into the SLI trap again







. I'm happy with my cards, just hopefully this opty 170 will help a great deal.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
*sigh*, I was hoping I could get you into the SLI trap again







. I'm happy with my cards, just hopefully this opty 170 will help a great deal.

could it be the mobo not the vids and cpu???


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Games are a not the way I prefer to save on vid cards. the lowest price usually works for me

I'd like to see your dfi results

It would still be a GTX285 though and I'd get 2 free games with it. Not to mention its an XFX card so the double lifetime warrnaty still applies.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
*sigh*, I was hoping I could get you into the SLI trap again







. I'm happy with my cards, just hopefully this opty 170 will help a great deal.









Well Ive come to find out with the video cards these days our cpus' just dont seem to have enough juice to process 2 GPUs' at once. Thats why I wanted a good single card solution rather than 2.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
could it be the mobo not the vids and cpu???

No, rat and I tested it out w/ similar CPU clocks and determined that it just really is clock speed that's going to help. My actual plan now just consists of getting the Opty 170, hopefully OC'ing it to around 2.7+ and then wait until AM3 is cheaper.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


No, rat and I tested it out w/ similar CPU clocks and determined that it just really is clock speed that's going to help. My actual plan now just consists of getting the Opty 170, hopefully OC'ing it to around 2.7+ and then wait until AM3 is cheaper.


I run my opty 180 at 2750 with out any problems. I think I had it up to 3.0 but not stable


----------



## GuardianOdin

hey ya fella's

Which 939 Mobo's are 16x16?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
hey ya fella's

Which 939 Mobo's are 16x16?

None.

The best you will get are 8x8, PCIe Gen 1 8x is fine even for the HD4870x2.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
hey ya fella's

Which 939 Mobo's are 16x16?

Any that have the NF4 SLI x32 chipset or CFX3200 chipset. Asus makes the A8N32-SLI Deluxe, A8R32-MVP Deluxe as examples. DFI also has one of each, as does Abit.... that I know of.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
None.

The best you will get are 8x8, PCIe Gen 1 8x is fine even for the HD4870x2.

Wrong, please see above.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Any that have the NF4 SLI x32 chipset or CFX3200 chipset. Asus makes the A8N32-SLI Deluxe, A8R32-MVP Deluxe as examples. DFI also has one of each, as does Abit.... that I know of.

Do you have the actual model names for them? I'm checking ebay and google and not really coming up with any good results.

EDIT: and thanks!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Do you have the actual model names for them? I'm checking ebay and google and not really coming up with any good results.

EDIT: and thanks!









Asus A8N32-SLI Deluxe
Asus A8R32-MVP Deluxe
DFI Lanparty????
DFI Lanparty UT CFX3200-DR
Abit AN8-32X
Abit AT8-32X


----------



## rhkcommander959

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Asus A8N32-SLI Deluxe
Asus A8R32-MVP Deluxe
*DFI Lanparty Ultra-D /etc*
DFI Lanparty UT CFX3200-DR
Abit AN8-32X
Abit AT8-32X

abit board was awesome, i have one, cfx3200 was the best board out but buggy. hooked a friend up with one and its whooping but to this day. dfi nf4 Ultra's were good too, but the one i had died not too long after.

if you need a mobo i may have one...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959* 
abit board was awesome, i have one, cfx3200 was the best board out but buggy. hooked a friend up with one and its whooping but to this day. dfi nf4 Ultra's were good too, but the one i had died not too long after.

if you need a mobo i may have one...

He was asking which ones were 32 laned SLI / Crossfire. I don't know for sure which DFI is 32 laned SLI, but I know quite a few of the DFI models are only 8x/8x.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
He was asking which ones were 32 laned SLI / Crossfire. I don't know for sure which DFI is 32 laned SLI, but I know quite a few of the DFI models are only 8x/8x.

I could very well be wrong, but I didn't think DFI had a 16x/16x Mobo's. I do remember something about early versions of the Ultra-D. Some sort of Mod.


----------



## rhkcommander959

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
I could very well be wrong, but I didn't think DFI had a 16x/16x Mobo's. I do remember something about early versions of the Ultra-D. Some sort of Mod.

ltra d's were 16x16

ultra-d's were 16x16. the mod was a pencil mod on the nvidia chipset to bride two contacts for sli








thus turning it into an sli-d


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*


ltra d's were 16x16

ultra-d's were 16x16. the mod was a pencil mod on the nvidia chipset to bride two contacts for sli








thus turning it into an sli-d



I wasn thinking about doing this mod to my Ultra d/g board.







But as Im looking into 1 badass card rather than 2 I dont think itll help really. 
And Pio is right, but you got the chipset wrong







its technically called the NF4 sli x16 chipset, not 32.







Devil is in the details.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I run my opty 180 at 2750 with out any problems. I think I had it up to 3.0 but not stable


Yeah, my boards FSB goes to 300, so I'm hoping I don't have a 2.5GHz wall, as it seems.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

G.O., as far as DFI goes, the LANParty UT nF4 SLI-DR Expert (which you have) and the legendary Venus motherboard (these two are essentially identical to each other, except that the Venus has upgraded capacitors) are the top of the line nF4-family DFIs. I'm not sure if either one is based on the nF4 SLI x16 chipset (I think they may be, since both boards have two chipsets; the nF4 SLI x16 chipset is a dual-chip chipset...), so it's a good bet that they are.

rhkcommander959, the LANParty UT nF4 Ultra D is emphatically *NOT* a 16 x 16 chipset. Assuming you have one of the early-series Ultra Ds, if you can do the pencil mod on them, it is an 8 x 8 SLI solution.

Abit's 16 x 16 PCI-E boards are the AN8 32X (SLI) and the AT8 32X (CrossFire).


----------



## N2Gaming

I saw a Asus NF4 chipset 16x16 with a intel cpu socket the other day. let me look and see if I can't dig it up.


----------



## N2Gaming

Found it: Asus P5N32-SLi SE Deluxe nF4 x16 775 True SLI L NIB!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...E:B:SS:US:1123


----------



## Pest

GuardianOdin, I'd look at the Asus A8N32-sli Deluxe if you can find one cheap. It's a great board with tons of OC options and you can really crank up the fbs.

EDIT: Hey pioneerisloud, what voltage were you running your opty 165 to get that OC in your sig?

I'm thinking of upping my fbs and suiciding to see if I can win the OC competition from the HWbot group.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pest*


GuardianOdin, I'd look at the Asus A8N32-sli Deluxe if you can find one cheap. It's a great board with tons of OC options and you can really crank up the fbs.

EDIT: Hey pioneerisloud, what voltage were you running your opty 165 to get that OC in your sig?

I'm thinking of upping my fbs and suiciding to see if I can win the OC competition from the HWbot group.


To get 3.0GHz, my Opteron takes 1.39v under load, 1.42v idle. 2.8GHz only requires 1.22v idle, 1.19v load. 2.6GHz and below are stable at 1.00v.


----------



## pez

Guyssss question. I tried Nforce 4 AMD SLI drivers again yesterday and it had the same result (windows will just go to loading screen and keep loading...and loading...and loading...and loading. oh, and loading.) I then proceded to do a system restore to an earlier date (didn't get to pick, just did an auto restore) and it booted fine. Now I can't get orthos stable past 2 hours. It lasted for 12 minutes one time, 10 another, and maybe 5 seconds on another? Now I'm running small fft's on the CPU and it's past 15 minutes. I took 2 gigs of RAM out for the Nforce driver, then did a CMOS dump, and left clocks stock. But now, I'm getting random programs crashing, CSS crashed a few times, AIM has, Steam has, IE7. I'm thinking an OS reinstall is in store? The only thing in my system that's changed is the other 2 gigs, but it was 11 hours stable before...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Hey guys, I've got a dillema here. Froggy is wanting to run 4GB of RAM, but NOBODY has 2x1GB of AData DDR400 to match in her rig (or GSkill with red heatspreaders). Those two kits don't play nicely together AT ALL.

I've found 2x2GB DDR266 that I can buy or trade for CHEAP. Would it be worth it? Or should I continue to search for the AData's or Gskill's and run 4x1GB like planned?


----------



## TestECull

Pio, Buy her two of these for ultimate winrar.

DDR266 is so slow it's pointless, and may not even run. You know how the IMC defaults to DDR333, which in this case is an overclock the ram may not be able to handle...it may not even post!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
Pio, Buy her two of these for ultimate winrar.

DDR266 is so slow it's pointless, and may not even run. You know how the IMC defaults to DDR333, which in this case is an overclock the ram may not be able to handle...it may not even post!

She's already got two of those, along with her pink AData's. They just don't play nicely together







. And those are $65. Not that its not worth it, but I just don't have $65 to spend...I'd be getting the 2x2GB kit as a trade.


----------



## TestECull

I can't help but think it's not even gonna post with those, pio. DDR266 isn't going to like the IMC defaulting to DDR333, which it will probably do, and I don't think itt'l even post long enough for you to manually force the lower speed.

Plus, DDR266 man. Slow slow slow slow slow slow slow slow slow.

Tell her to yank the A-data's and run on just the G.Skills. I have no trouble running 2GB here.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
I can't help but think it's not even gonna post with those, pio. DDR266 isn't going to like the IMC defaulting to DDR333, which it will probably do, and I don't think itt'l even post long enough for you to manually force the lower speed.

Plus, DDR266 man. Slow slow slow slow slow slow slow slow slow.

Tell her to yank the A-data's and run on just the G.Skills. I have no trouble running 2GB here.

You'll have no problems with 2 gigs, but once you use 4 gigs, you'll never want to go back to anything less.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
you'll have no problems with 2 gigs, but once you use 4 gigs, you'll never want to go back to anything less.

EXACTLY! She's already running 4x1GB @ DDR270, 3-6-6-12-2T timings. And even at those horrible speeds and timings, she LOVES it. Hence why I was thinking the DDR266 2x2GB kit might be nice. Seriously, these AData's mixed with the GSkills SUCK!


----------



## TestECull

:\\ Temp fix then. I still vote for the G.Skills eventually. [email protected] FTW.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
: Temp fix then. I still vote for the G.Skills eventually. [email protected] FTW.

You know they run stock at 2.5-3-3-6, right?


----------



## Blitz6804

I cannot recommend the DDR 266. The IMC of the 939 K8s were never designed with that high of densities in mind. You may have just as many problems running 2x2 as you do now with 4x1 unmatched.


----------



## N2Gaming

I have a pair of these that I could let go for my cost.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
IE7. I'm thinking an OS reinstall is in store?

Before you try a re-install uninstall I.E. and run a reg cleaner like ccleaner and make sure you have run a complete virus scan. I think you will be happy with the results.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
DDR266 is so slow it's pointless, and may not even run.
















I run 2 sticks of 266valueram on an asrock @333 2.5cas with no issues whatsoever. I don't even have to bump the volts. I haven't even tried to twead the timeings up as the loose settings run just fine.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I cannot recommend the DDR 266. The IMC of the 939 K8s were never designed with that high of densities in mind. You may have just as many problems running 2x2 as you do now with 4x1 unmatched.

?? could you elaborate. I'm deciding what ram to use with my tyan and may have to get some new memory so this will come into play. I'll probally go multi boot with my new opty, win98se/nt2000pro/xp32pro/xp64pro/win7??/linux for folding??


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Before you try a re-install uninstall I.E. and run a reg cleaner like ccleaner and make sure you have run a complete virus scan. I think you will be happy with the results.























I run 2 sticks of 266valueram on an asrock @333 2.5cas with no issues whatsoever. I don't even have to bump the volts. I haven't even tried to twead the timeings up as the loose settings run just fine.

?? could you elaborate. I'm deciding what ram to use with my tyan and may have to get some new memory so this will come into play. I'll probally go multi boot with my new opty, win98se/nt2000pro/xp32pro/xp64pro/win7??/linux for folding??

Going to try this as I've never really ran I reg cleaner while on vista. Just when I had XP lol.


----------



## Blitz6804

When Skt 939s came out, the only way to get 2 GB DIMMs was by going ECC registered. Unbuffered/unregistered RAM of that density might give the memory controller some issue. Granted, since this is an Opteron we are discussing, it likely could do DDR-266 with ECC; not sure. Many times too the motherboard could be at issue. I know for example my Gigabyte GA-K8NSC-939 says the max density per DIMM is 1 GB. My AT8-32x said the max density per DIMM was 2 GB. You would need to look into the motherboard to confirm.

And it is not a chipset to chipset, it is a brand to brand. Look at my AM2+ motherboard exempli gratia. Mine is rated to do 2 GB maximum per slot. The DFI above it, bearing the identical chipsets, is rated to do 4 GB maximum per slot. It might be a trace issue, it might be a BIOS issue. I do not know.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 

And it is not a chipset to chipset, it is a brand to brand. Look at my AM2+ motherboard exempli gratia. Mine is rated to do 2 GB maximum per slot. The DFI above it, bearing the identical chipsets, is rated to do 4 GB maximum per slot. It might be a trace issue, it might be a BIOS issue. I do not know.

I wonder if it has any thing to do with the power circuits that controll the memory on the board it self. I know The AMD has the ram controller built into it but I'm talking about the amound of power the mobo uses to keep the RAM charged. I think the more ram per stick requires more power to keep them charged. Correct or not???


----------



## Blitz6804

I was thinking it might be something along that line. That would mean though that the UT will be able to clock the same RAM higher than the DK due to the fact that the power supply to the RAM is better. You would think though, if that were the case, it is a simple matter of increasing the RAM voltage in the BIOS, which is why I thought it might be a BIOS issue more than anything else.


----------



## pez

Ran the reg cleaner. The only thing that's crashed in the last 2-4 hours was the windows sidebar...so here's to wishing for the best.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
OK so heres some comparisons. Rig1: DFI lanparty 3500+ @ 2.6ghz, 1 9600GSO stock clocks, 2gb corsair. CSS: 16:10 Everything maxed 16xAA/AF :129.05 FPS, Crysis:16:10 no AA everything set to high 15.86fps (and you guys know I can get 25fps), 3dm03- 19608, 3dmark06-4988. With my opty 180 + 1 GSO its right around 9500. In SLI its closer to 11k
Rig 2: Asus A8n32SLIdeluxe, opty 165 @ 2,3ghz, 4870 1gb (btw this is the OC'd XXX version), 2gb hyperx. CSS:16:10 everything max 8xMSAA, 16xAF-137.13fps. Crysis: 16:10 everything set to high 16xQAA - 26.20 fps. And the difference between AA and no AA using the crysis benchmark was a 1-2 fps increase. 3Dm03-18497, 3dm06-9021.

BlackOmega, those results do look a little odd. With my 4850 I was getting a little over 10.9k in 3DMark06. This was with driver version 8.7. For testing purposes have you tried an older version of the display driver? I'm not sure how well the 9.1's are. Do both slots on the A8N32 run at 16x in single video card mode?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I know for example my Gigabyte GA-K8NSC-939 says the max density per DIMM is 1 GB.

Blitz, I didn't know the K8NSC was compatible with ECC memory. I found that out last night when I installed some 1024 DDR333 ECC sticks. Boot's up great









Good luck guys


----------



## Blitz6804

Regards the 9.1s: They are good drivers. I gain about a 5% performance boost compared to 8.12. A score of 9021 does sound about right given the fact that it is running at 2.3 GHz.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I was thinking it might be something along that line. That would mean though that the UT will be able to clock the same RAM higher than the DK due to the fact that the power supply to the RAM is better. You would think though, if that were the case, it is a simple matter of increasing the RAM voltage in the BIOS, which is why I thought it might be a BIOS issue more than anything else.

Actually probably not, If you increase the Voltage it will not effect the voltage drop from a higher load. But adding capacitors will.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Ran the reg cleaner. The only thing that's crashed in the last 2-4 hours was the windows sidebar...so here's to wishing for the best.

I would still remove I.E. and then run the cleaner.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Well I am shocked and amazed. How can a $275 video card with more ram and a higher bit interface do _WORSE_ than a $65 card with less ram and a lower bit interface. It just doesnt make any sense to me. I cant believe how badly this thing does. My score in 3dm06 is lower than 1 of my GSO's, same with 3dm03. I cant believe that its bottlenecking that badly. I mean if my GSO's does better, and if this card was bottlenecked that bad I'd imagine that it would do just as well considering how much more power this thing supposedly has.
I think Im going to bust out my opty 180, run it @ 3.0 and see how it does. But somehow I dont think it'll be all that great.
Man, I am seriously disappointed









sounds like drivers to me...

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I have a pair of these that I could let go for my cost.










Can those keep up with my HZs? I need some more memory







.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Well I am shocked and amazed. How can a $275 video card with more ram and a higher bit interface do _WORSE_ than a $65 card with less ram and a lower bit interface. It just doesnt make any sense to me. I cant believe how badly this thing does. My score in 3dm06 is lower than 1 of my GSO's, same with 3dm03. I cant believe that its bottlenecking that badly. I mean if my GSO's does better, and if this card was bottlenecked that bad I'd imagine that it would do just as well considering how much more power this thing supposedly has.
I think Im going to bust out my opty 180, run it @ 3.0 and see how it does. But somehow I dont think it'll be all that great.
Man, I am seriously disappointed









I'll agree with the driver (issue) comment.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
It makes sense if your trying to compare a card designed for pcie 2.0 vs on designed for pcie1.? and the software was written for such hardware.

It really shouldn't matter. If I'm not mistaken, the card wouldn't be using all the bandwidth that 1.0 provides.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
G.O., as far as DFI goes, the LANParty UT nF4 SLI-DR Expert (which you have) and the legendary Venus motherboard (these two are essentially identical to each other, except that the Venus has upgraded capacitors) are the top of the line nF4-family DFIs. I'm not sure if either one is based on the nF4 SLI x16 chipset (I think they may be, since both boards have two chipsets; the nF4 SLI x16 chipset is a dual-chip chipset...), so it's a good bet that they are.

rhkcommander959, the LANParty UT nF4 Ultra D is emphatically *NOT* a 16 x 16 chipset. Assuming you have one of the early-series Ultra Ds, if you can do the pencil mod on them, it is an 8 x 8 SLI solution.

Abit's 16 x 16 PCI-E boards are the AN8 32X (SLI) and the AT8 32X (CrossFire).

My Expert runs at 8x/8x I tried 8600GT SLi the other day and that is what was shown.

I would like to get my hands on that ASUS Deluxe for myself







but I can't justify the cost Vs going to AM2+/AM3.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I have a pair of these that I could let go for my cost.










Nice. I have a pair of those sitting unopened on my desk.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Regards the 9.1s: They are good drivers. I gain about a 5% performance boost compared to 8.12. A score of 9021 does sound about right given the fact that it is running at 2.3 GHz.


Blitz, they might be good drivers for your setup but perhaps with what Omega is running they may not be doing so great.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Can those keep up with my HZs? I need some more memory


Nate, the F13200PU2 2GB kit is the same one I have. I didn't have much luck with overclocking them. Max frequency was 244Mhz and that was without a processor OC. I believe that set carries the Hynix D43 IC's. I tried to run CAS2 with everything else stock...forget it won't happen









Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Performance improved on both the HD 4870x2 and the HD 3850s. It would be logical it would help on an HD 4870 too.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Performance improved on both the HD 4870x2 and the HD 3850s. It would be logical it would help on an HD 4870 too.


Blitz, only way to find out is to start testing with other drivers...if he's willing of course. There are so many factors involved. Maybe his chipset drivers are causing a conflict? Perhaps a service running in the background?

Good luck


----------



## nategr8ns

thinker, do you happen to know what chips mine have?
I'm pretty sure I can get them up past ddr 500, just haven't had the patience.


----------



## BlackOmega

Well heres teh issue with teh drivers. The card initially loaded the 8.12 drivers. Everything seemed ok except on the desktop and while browsing the screen would flicker and bounce every now and again. I d/led the 9.1 drivers had the same issue. Contacted XFX tech support (which is realyl fast with their responses btw) they suggested I roll the drivers back to the 8.11, I went to 8.10. And I have noticed that the higher I run the cpu the better it does. Hopefully later tonight Ill be able to get a chance to swap my DFI board/opty 180 in to my CM590 case and get to do some benchmarking. Im wondering if the stock OC on this card is too much. Ive read that people cant even up the clocks 25mhz without serious instablility. O well, Ill post my results later, going to watch a movie with the wife now


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*


Nice. I have a pair of those sitting unopened on my desk.










If you want to sell those or trade them, shoot me a PM







. A trade would be preferred (see my sig for what I have). I'm trying to find another kit just like those for 4GB matched for Froggy (or AData with pink heatspreaders).


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Actually probably not, If you increase the Voltage it will not effect the voltage drop from a higher load. But adding capacitors will.









I would still remove I.E. and then run the cleaner.









Only bad thing is in Vista, you can't remove IE. It's built into the OS :/.


----------



## Blitz6804

The do what I do... JUST DO NOT USE IT! Get yourself a copy of Firefox 2.0.18. (You could use Fx 3.0.x, but it is inherently slower in my experience.)


----------



## Hueristic

for some reason this page is gone from micro$haft.com

Code:


Code:


How to uninstall Internet Explorer 7
Method 2: Use Spuninst.exe to uninstall Internet Explorer 7 ... In the Open box, type 
%windir%ie7spuninstspuninst.exe, and then click OK. ...
support.microsoft.com/kb/927177 - Similar pages

*** keeps takeing the "\\" backslashes out!

%windir%\\ie7\\spuninst\\spuninst.exe


----------



## pez

that uninstalls ie7 from vista? safely?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


that uninstalls ie7 from vista? safely?


According to what I've heard. I don't use Vista for many reasons and being forced to have a flawed bug ridden virus magnet like I.E. is not the least of which.









I cannot guarantee anything as the micro$haft knowledge base has decided to no longer host it it seems.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


thinker, do you happen to know what chips mine have?
I'm pretty sure I can get them up past ddr 500, just haven't had the patience.


Nate, the 2GBHZ kit uses Samsung UCCC IC's. If you remove the heatspreader is should show "UCCC" at the end of the serial number on the IC's. I wouldn't recommend removing the heatspreader though, that voids the warranty and may also damage the memory. These are technicaly native DDR400 IC's so they are already technically "overclocked". What you can get out of them I'm not sure about. Perhaps Joe may be able to provide some brief overview of the UCCC's. Pretty slick that these run at 1T stock. Timings are a high but the frequency should make up for that









Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well heres teh issue with teh drivers. The card initially loaded the 8.12 drivers. Everything seemed ok except on the desktop and while browsing the screen would flicker and bounce every now and again. I d/led the 9.1 drivers had the same issue. Contacted XFX tech support (which is realyl fast with their responses btw) they suggested I roll the drivers back to the 8.11, I went to 8.10. And I have noticed that the higher I run the cpu the better it does. Hopefully later tonight Ill be able to get a chance to swap my DFI board/opty 180 in to my CM590 case and get to do some benchmarking. Im wondering if the stock OC on this card is too much. Ive read that people cant even up the clocks 25mhz without serious instablility. O well, Ill post my results later, going to watch a movie with the wife now










Omega, good to know an older version of the driver is helping out. Are you able to down clock the card? I wonder if the stock OC on this card is causing some issues.

Good luck guys


----------



## Hueristic

I <3 Samsung Chips!


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


for some reason this page is gone from micro$haft.com

Code:


Code:


How to uninstall Internet Explorer 7
Method 2: Use Spuninst.exe to uninstall Internet Explorer 7 ... In the Open box, type 
%windir%ie7spuninstspuninst.exe, and then click OK. ...
support.microsoft.com/kb/927177 - Similar pages

*** keeps takeing the "\\" backslashes out!

%windir%ie7spuninstspuninst.exe


says it couldn't find it


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey all,

for some reason this thread was unsubscribed so I'm just adding it back to my list.

That's all.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Hey all,

for some reason this thread was unsubscribed so I'm just adding it back to my list.

That's all.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hey all,

for some reason this thread was unsubscribed so I'm just adding it back to my list.

That's all.










we didn't even miss you!


----------



## N2Gaming

Yeah it don't look like I missed a whole lot.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Yeah it don't look like I missed a whole lot.










I've unsubscribed like 5 times from here by mistake. I get busy working on an Illustration and go to hit the link and move the mouse wheel down and hit the wrong link....it happens.


----------



## N2Gaming

yeah my first gut feeling was I was hacked becuase I believe some strange stuff started happening to my pc right about the time it happened. I turned of the pc for an 1/2 and let the hacker move on from bordom.


----------



## pez

Mmmm i think I may be getting a Visiontek HD 4870 for my cards. We shall see. This makes me happy







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Pez I saw your trade thread. Good luck

Hey GO I was looking for freebee's and saw far cry 2 so I posted in hopes of winning so that I could play it on my 939 rigs.







On toppic and what do you know I posted right after you.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Pez I saw your trade thread. Good luck

Hey GO I was looking for freebee's and saw far cry 2 so I posted in hopes of winning so that I could play it on my 939 rigs.







On toppic and what do you know I posted right after you.










I've been wanting farcry 2 so bad, but I'm not in the mood to shell out 50 bucks for it







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


I've been wanting farcry 2 so bad, but I'm not in the mood to shell out 50 bucks for it







.


 It's listed under the free section. A lot of people are saying it's not there cup of tee.


----------



## pez

Hmm so what is the opinion of the group on 2x9800GT's for a HD 4870 512MB? It's a visiontek with the receipt and everything.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Hmm so what is the opinion of the group on 2x9800GT's for a HD 4870 512MB? It's a visiontek with the receipt and everything.


I don't like it so much.

New the XFX 98GT is around 128$ - 98$ After MIR

And an HD4870 512mb new is around the 190$ range with a 20$ MIR and aftermarket cooler. (Sapphire)


----------



## Blitz6804

As much as I learned to hate mutli-card setups, I think you will be better off with a dual-card configuration. Further, as much as I love ATi (and loath nVidia) the simple fact is that games these days generally favor nVidia. Perhaps if you could get your hands on a GTX 260 or GTX 260b, I would tell you to trade. Else, I would stay with what you have personally.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey when a person has a sli enabled rig is it best to install the os before installing the second card so the os wont get confused or am I confused. I was under the impression that while doing a clean install it is best to only have one video card in the machine untill you get all the bugs worked out then add the second card to enable sli-mode. Does this sound about right or am I just being to precaustiouse.

Pez I really would like to see you get the bugs worked out and be able to use those cards to the fullest potencial. you just got the second card a little over a month ago. I'm wondering if you don't have a bad card or some kind of jumper setting on your mobo or setting in the bios is not properly enabled for running sli? I know it's already been asked but do you know for sure that your sli bridge is good. I was having a problem with my video cards and when I changed the sli bridge I solved the problem.

Good luck,

N2G


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Omega, good to know an older version of the driver is helping out. Are you able to down clock the card? I wonder if the stock OC on this card is causing some issues.

Good luck guys











I can use the CCC to down/over clock it. I havent tried since I went to the 8.10 driver and have no issues at stock clocks.

I hoping Ill get around some time today to swapping everything over and doing the benchies. Ive been looking at some more benchmarks and was seeing that the 4870 really isnt doing that well against the GTX series. I just saw a bench where the 4870 was doing considerably worse than the GTX 260 SC. 
Anyway, do you know of a way I can get the temps and FPS to display onscreen similar to the precision tool? It makes it kind of hard to determine if its better/worse if I cant see the FPS. I suppose I can use fraps for FPS, but Id really like to see the temps since these cards have a tendency to run hot.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hey when a person has a sli enabled rig is it best to install the os before installing the second card so the os wont get confused or am I confused. I was under the impression that while doing a clean install it is best to only have one video card in the machine untill you get all the bugs worked out then add the second card to enable sli-mode. Does this sound about right or am I just being to precaustiouse.

Pez I really would like to see you get the bugs worked out and be able to use those cards to the fullest potencial. you just got the second card a little over a month ago. I'm wondering if you don't have a bad card or some kind of jumper setting on your mobo or setting in the bios is not properly enabled for running sli? I know it's already been asked but do you know for sure that your sli bridge is good. I was having a problem with my video cards and when I changed the sli bridge I solved the problem.

Good luck,

N2G


I actually tested out a single 9800GT at x16 bandwidth yesterday on CoD4. On the section I was testing, (singleplayer) I was getting about 70 minimum and about 82 average with SLI. I took a card out and my minimum was about 45-50 and I was getting up to 81-89, but it averaged about 50. So as soon as I figure out what's going on w/ my system stability, I'm going to get that opty 170







. I got my job back too, so I'm gonna be able to get it sooner hopefully







.


----------



## Blitz6804

What I do is run XFire in-game to see the FPS and have GPU-Z log the temperatures in the background. In my experience, with the exception of Folding, CCC does a decent job of auto fan control, not letting the card get into the 80s.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Anyway, do you know of a way I can get the temps and FPS to display onscreen similar to the precision tool? It makes it kind of hard to determine if its better/worse if I cant see the FPS. I suppose I can use fraps for FPS, but Id really like to see the temps since these cards have a tendency to run hot.


BlackOmega, depending on which game you're playing most of them will let you view the frames per second. Do a google search for the game and include "fps command" (something to that). Most games have a command console if not the console can be enabled by editing the application shortcut in windows. For temperature monitoring, I use the OSD extension in Everest. The OSD is displayed on my second screen so it may not work if you have a single display.

What kind of temps are you getting idle? Did you do a fresh install of the OS before testing ingame play? What resolution are you playing at?

Good luck


----------



## pez

So the guy is very interested in the card. He offered to tack on another $20 if I'm interested in the trade. This is sooo tempting, but I'm not sure yet. Could use all the opinions/info possible







.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, depending on which game you're playing most of them will let you view the frames per second. Do a google search for the game and include "fps command" (something to that). Most games have a command console if not the console can be enabled by editing the application shortcut in windows. For temperature monitoring, I use the OSD extension in Everest. The OSD is displayed on my second screen so it may not work if you have a single display.

What kind of temps are you getting idle? Did you do a fresh install of the OS before testing ingame play? What resolution are you playing at?

Good luck










 Well @ idle the cards @ 47* with a fan speed of 37%. Which is damn good if you ask me. And yeah this was a brand new HDD so this is a fresh install of everything. Im playing @ 1680x1050. Maxing every option I can. But then again other than Crysis demo everything I run on this and ran on my GSO's was max AA/AF, Im going to install Enemy territory quake wars later since that has a max of 32xAA and soft particles. Brought my GSO's in SLI to their knees 20 fps or less. 
Ill keep you guys posted.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


So the guy is very interested in the card. He offered to tack on another $20 if I'm interested in the trade. This is sooo tempting, but I'm not sure yet. Could use all the opinions/info possible







.


Personally I would not but then I have not had any issues with sli other then the bad sli bridge thingie.

Have you tried to contact xfx tech support to see if they can offer you any suggestions to get those cards optimized in your rig?

Good luck what ever you do.

N2G


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Im playing @ 1680x1050. Maxing every option I can. But then again other than Crysis demo everything I run on this and ran on my GSO's was max AA/AF, Im going to install Enemy territory quake wars later since that has a max of 32xAA and soft particles. Brought my GSO's in SLI to their knees 20 fps or less.

BlackOmega, you also have you understand you are demanding a lot from your card when turning everything on. The cards really show their colors with AA and AF on but those settings are also very taxing on the system. In TF2 at 1680x1050 I wasn't getting great frames with just having 2x AA on.

Just because the option is available in the game/CCC doesn't mean the card is going to be able to play it smoothly. Is there really a reason to have 32x AA or even 8x? Half the time I can't even tell a difference.

Good luck


----------



## jrs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Nate, the 2GBHZ kit uses Samsung UCCC IC's. If you remove the heatspreader is should show "UCCC" at the end of the serial number on the IC's. I wouldn't recommend removing the heatspreader though, that voids the warranty and may also damage the memory. These are technicaly native DDR400 IC's so they are already technically "overclocked". What you can get out of them I'm not sure about. Perhaps Joe may be able to provide some brief overview of the UCCC's. Pretty slick that these run at 1T stock. Timings are a high but the frequency should make up for that










Believe it or not my kingston value ram has UCCC chips on it. Don't doubt me







. They clock very nicely up to ddr560 stable. I have had them running at ddr585 as well. Low volts (2.8) and loose timings 3-4-3-8 2T...and well I have the DFI so I am sure you all know how many other ram settings there are


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Personally I would not but then I have not had any issues with sli other then the bad sli bridge thingie.

Have you tried to contact xfx tech support to see if they can offer you any suggestions to get those cards optimized in your rig?

Good luck what ever you do.

N2G


Well I think my cards are doing fine, it's just a CPU bottleneck.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well, it seems my current PSU can handle a single core and my 8800GT just fine (BTW, thank you to a certain 939 member for you know what). So here's a little sneak peak as to what I'm tinkering with right now. I'll give you a hint, it involves a certain 1GB stick of RAM that just so happens to have BH-5 IC's on it








. This is by no means stable, and it DESPERATELY needs some sort of cooler for the RAM







. But this is looking promising.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey Pio, I see you have server 2003 in the sig rig. Do you know what if any the difference is from xp x64.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hey Pio, I see you have server 2003 in the sig rig. Do you know what if any the difference is from xp x64.


I don't know all of the differences. All I know is that Windows Server editions have a LOT more server options than your standard Windows. They usually don't have all the themes either (which is easily fixable). Other than that, I don't know to be honest.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I don't know all of the differences. All I know is that Windows Server editions have a LOT more server options than your standard Windows. They usually don't have all the themes either (which is easily fixable). Other than that, I don't know to be honest.


Sounds good I'm glad you got your other hardware working. hope you win the drawing.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, you also have you understand you are demanding a lot from your card when turning everything on. The cards really show their colors with AA and AF on but those settings are also very taxing on the system. In TF2 at 1680x1050 I wasn't getting great frames with just having 2x AA on.

Just because the option is available in the game/CCC doesn't mean the card is going to be able to play it smoothly. Is there really a reason to have 32x AA or even 8x? Half the time I can't even tell a difference.

Good luck


 Well thats just the thing th|nk3r, my GSO(just 1) @ 1680x1050 can max AA/AF in most games. CSS, TF2, Assassins creed, BF2, BF2142, GRAW, FEAR, etc etc are all at very playable framerates, typically 30+ for the more intensive games, 50+ for medium intensity, and 100+ on low intensity games like CSS. But thats the whole point of buying this card. Honestly I could care less about 3dmark scores it just gives me a benchmark I can go by. That way I can compare a $300 card to a $115 card and have a figure. The way I look at it is a price to performance ratio. Obviously the more you pay the more performance you should get. And the way Im looking at it right now the permium I paid for the card is not equating to the performance I should be getting. 
I doing the testing right now on the 4870, Ive slowly been stepping up the clocks and running it at each speed. So far @ 2880 it scored 10376. 
Lets see what happens @ 3.0


----------



## BlackOmega

Ok heres some results @ 2.904, she was getting too hot @ 3.0 for my liking so I dialed it back so I can run at stock voltage.
Anyway, here they are. This is all @ 1680x1050.
Counterstrike source: Max settings, 208.49FPS(71fps improvement)
Crysis (16xQAA/AF): 26.27 (no improvement)
3Dmark06-10554 (+1353)
3Dmark03-35328 (+16831)

Well, Im not sure what to think anymore. Why is Joe score teh same as mine yet he has half the ram and was @ a lower clock speed?







I dont think my card is running up to snuff. Do you guys think I'm bottlenecking?
At anyrate, when I get back from school Im going to slap the 9600 in and run the tests again then we'll have a good comparison.


----------



## pioneerisloud

What settings were you running Crysis at? And wow, I'm jealous!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Okay, a local buddy of mine (PR1M3R) has acquired some DICE equipment. He wants to get some AMD records. Should I allow him to use my Opteron 165 + Corsair XMS that hits DDR550 + Asus A8N32-SLI Deluxe?

I know this chip can PROBABLY hold records. I mean c'mon, I can get to near 3.3GHz on air with it. But is it worth the risk? What do you guys think?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


What settings were you running Crysis at? And wow, I'm jealous!



Crysis was @ 1680x1050 everything on high 16xQ(quad?)AA/16x AF. Is that good or bad? There was little to no improvement between 2.3ghz and 2.9 ghz in Crysis. Everything else seems to have improved though.

And while I was looking at the benchmark ticker at futuremark, I was seeing that on average people with newer systems were getting on average about 3-5k more in 3dmark06 than I was with the 4870. So Im starting to think that I really am bottlenecking. Was piecing together a PII 940 rig, was looking right around $381 shipped. 
Im contemplating selling my A8N32sli deluxe, my opty 165, the CFX board and my hyperx ram. Wonder how close that would get me to my goal of a Deneb rig. Ill leave the DFI NF4 board and opty 180 unless I get a good offer on that stuff. Then possibly sell off one of my GSO's.


----------



## Blitz6804

3DMark06 is a very CPU-Centric benchmark. You will notice that your CPU speed is a substantial part of the overall score, effecting all three stats. Single-core CPUs tend to be incapable of breaking 6000. Dual-core CPUs do better, and quad-core CPUs do better still. The benchmark is also very nVidia/Intel favoring. I too am having problems with Crysis BlackOmega. No matter what I do, I cannot get more than 35-40 FPS whether I run 1280x800 0xAA, medspec DX9 or 1920x1200 4xAA, highspec DX10. I think it is a driver issue with CCC.

pioneerisloud: As long as you trust your friend not to kill it, go for it! Maybe see if you can get him to sign a guarantee; if he breaks it, he owes you $400 for it. (The approximate fair market value of a 939 capable of doing 3.3 GHz.)


----------



## pez

So as more proof, pio helped me out last night in determining under vista and win 7 that CS:S is very very CPU based. He clocked his opty down to 2.5GHz and we were both recieving similar minimums (just like the test w/ Desert). W/ his opty at 2.7, it was much better







. OPty 170 here I come.


----------



## Blitz6804

I am glad we found the problem Pez. I hope your Opteron treats you well; wishing you at least 2.8 GHz!


----------



## Tator Tot

I wonder why CSS is so CPU dependent in Vista? And why a 2.5ghz Dual Core is such a hold back for it?

I mean, I can play some pretty solid CSS on a 1.4ghz Celeron with an X800XL in Xp.
And considering the vast improvements in tech to 2xGSO & 2.5Ghz DC, where the hold back is that causes it to have the low/er frame rates.


----------



## Blitz6804

Vista has many more background tasks running than XP does. Even if you shut off the most obvious ones (Desktop Composition, Visual Themes, Indexer, Defender) you are still fighting an uphill battle. The only way to avoid this is to try doing a very limited boot. That is, run only the processes absolutely critical to run the game at hand. I have tried this, and even then, performance is inferior compared to XP. Much better than a stock Vista boot, but still inferior. This is why Microsoft extended the lifespan of XP a few times and are now rushing to get Windows 7 (_ne_: Vienna) to market much faster than intended.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Vista has many more background tasks running than XP does. Even if you shut off the most obvious ones (Desktop Composition, Visual Themes, Indexer, Defender) you are still fighting an uphill battle. The only way to avoid this is to try doing a very limited boot. That is, run only the processes absolutely critical to run the game at hand. I have tried this, and even then, performance is inferior compared to XP. Much better than a stock Vista boot, but still inferior. This is why Microsoft extended the lifespan of XP a few times and are now rushing to get Windows 7 (_ne_: Vienna) to market much faster than intended.


I was wondering why abut several months ago it was very hard to find new xp pro os for retail or oem in any of the stores and now you can get it just about naywhere again. Now it makes sense. Darn Micro $haft.


----------



## Tator Tot

/Glad I have Retail XP.

Though still, I'm not getting why his proc is not able to handle Vista well.

I get similar game performance (+/- 4 FPS) in almost every game, when playing in XP or Vista, and I have a Brisbane 4000+ @ 2.8. 
Before that I was running @ 2.0 (stock) and still doing fine. 
I only overclocked so I could get some better multi tasking going. 
And Obviously I am running 2 lower spec cards than he is and never seemed to encounter this issues.

Is their that much difference between his x2 3800+ and my x2 4000+ if both are at the same speed?

I mean the only real difference I can see is that my RAM is faster. But he has twice as much as I do.


----------



## Blitz6804

BUT: You, like me, have an all-AMD platform. CPU, NB, SB, GPU... all of it is AMD. Things are different when you start having every part require its own driver. In an all-AMD platform, all parts get their driver from the CCC package. In Pez's case, he needs the AMD driver for his CPU, the NB driver for the nForce, the GPU driver for the SLI, et cetera.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


BUT: You, like me, have an all-AMD platform. CPU, NB, SB, GPU... all of it is AMD. Things are different when you start having every part require its own driver. In an all-AMD platform, all parts get their driver from the CCC package. In Pez's case, he needs the AMD driver for his CPU, the NB driver for the nForce, the GPU driver for the SLI, et cetera.


I didn't have issues when I was running Dual G80 88GTS cards with this chip @ Stock or 3.0ghz on my EVGA 590SLi. 
Everything else was the same. I just had a higher clock and nVidia stuff for my chipset and GPUs.

edit: All AMD FTW!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Guys, the issue at hand isn't AVERAGE framerates on CSS. That's perfectly fine according to Pez. Its when it drops down to below 60 is when he's getting the problems. As we ALL know (who have played it), CSS NEEDS those higher framerates to be smooth. So if he's seeing 30 FPS instead of 90....then yeah, it's going to be unplayable.

There was a server we were in, and my Opteron was clocked at 2.70GHz, and I was seeing as low as 45 FPS. He was seeing as low as 30 @ 2.5GHz. Custom maps...that's why







.


----------



## Blitz6804

But the issue is XP versus Vista. The drivers for the two systems are different. Exacerbated by the fact that for all of us, our XP experience was x86 and our Vista experience is x64. (Though, Pez and I have both done Vista x86 and x64; but I have not played CS:S in any.)

Pez: Has XP Compatibility mode helped any?


----------



## Tator Tot

I can play CSS at 16x12 with 30FPS just fine. 
Doesn't look bad to me.

The human eye does not see past 30FPS.

Maybe something to consider for more stable FPS is Vsync, I turn that on in every game. Makes them play so smooth. Especially source games.


----------



## Blitz6804

The AVERAGE human eye does not see beyond 30 FPS. Some of us see an annoying flicker effect when watching a PAL TV. (50 Hz Interlaced; 25 effective FPS.)


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
I can play CSS at 16x12 with 30FPS just fine.
Doesn't look bad to me.

The human eye does not see past 30FPS.

Maybe something to consider for more stable FPS is Vsync, I turn that on in every game. Makes them play so smooth. Especially source games.

Ok, I agree that the human eye cannot see past a certain framerate. However I don't think its 30. I think it closer to 60, with exceptions to the rule.

However, with the above being said.....
Even with the limitations of our hardware (IE Monitors and a 60Hz refresh rate), and the "eye theory", CSS is STILL more smooth with a higher framerate. I can tell a difference between 120-150 FPS in CSS. Even though my monitor can't actually do it, and even though my eyes can't see it...the difference IS there.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
/

Is their that much difference between his x2 3800+ and my x2 4000+ if both are at the same speed?

I mean the only real difference I can see is that my RAM is faster. But he has twice as much as I do.

Does the x2 4000+ have more cpu cache then the x2 3800+??? Maybe that could be a slight advantage at the same clock speed.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Does the x2 4000+ have more cpu cache then the x2 3800+??? Maybe that could be a slight advantage at the same clock speed.

Not in CSS







. Like Pez said, I ran with him this morning at identical clocks, and we were within 1-2 FPS apart, and I was watching somebody else by mistake (I was spectating, he was playing). Cache makes very little to no difference in CSS...its all about clock speed, and that's it.


----------



## Blitz6804

No. A Brisbane has the same amount of cache as a Manchester. (A Windsor matches a Toledo/Denmark.) It could be a difference of RAM bandwidth though. Unlikely since DDR2-800 in a Brisbane gets about the same as DDR-500 in a Toledo, but possible.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Hey Pio, I see you have server 2003 in the sig rig. Do you know what if any the difference is from xp x64.

XP server 2003 IIRC is the first iteration of vista without the eye candy and is still considered the best of either xp or vista.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Ok heres some results @ 2.904, she was getting too hot @ 3.0 for my liking so I dialed it back so I can run at stock voltage.
Anyway, here they are. This is all @ 1680x1050.
Counterstrike source: Max settings, 208.49FPS(71fps improvement)
Crysis (16xQAA/AF): 26.27 (no improvement)
3Dmark06-10554 (+1353)
3Dmark03-35328 (+16831)

Well, Im not sure what to think anymore. Why is Joe score teh same as mine yet he has half the ram and was @ a lower clock speed?







I dont think my card is running up to snuff. Do you guys think I'm bottlenecking?
At anyrate, when I get back from school Im going to slap the 9600 in and run the tests again then we'll have a good comparison.









Dude, Not to be a grammar Nazi but can you stop the "teh" stuff? It confuses me when reading posts. My brain is foggy with the chronic pain and meds. I know it seems trite but I have to keep going back to read your posts multiple times. It's my problem but if you could stop it would help me.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Okay, a local buddy of mine (PR1M3R) has acquired some DICE equipment. He wants to get some AMD records. Should I allow him to use my Opteron 165 + Corsair XMS that hits DDR550 + Asus A8N32-SLI Deluxe?

I know this chip can PROBABLY hold records. I mean c'mon, I can get to near 3.3GHz on air with it. But is it worth the risk? What do you guys think?

Read my sig!









Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 

pioneerisloud: As long as you trust your friend not to kill it, go for it! Maybe see if you can get him to sign a guarantee; if he breaks it, he owes you $400 for it. (The approximate fair market value of a 939 capable of doing 3.3 GHz.)













































Or if he will give you a comparable am3 board/chip.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
So as more proof, pio helped me out last night in determining under vista and win 7 that CS:S is very very CPU based. He clocked his opty down to 2.5GHz and we were both recieving similar minimums (just like the test w/ Desert). W/ his opty at 2.7, it was much better







. OPty 170 here I come.





































:appl aud:
Let us know what you find before buying. There are a few people here with these that can help you get the best bang for your buck.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
I can play CSS at 16x12 with 30FPS just fine.
Doesn't look bad to me.

The human eye does not see past 30FPS.

Maybe something to consider for more stable FPS is Vsync, I turn that on in every game. Makes them play so smooth. Especially source games.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Ok heres some results @ 2.904, she was getting too hot @ 3.0 for my liking so I dialed it back so I can run at stock voltage.
Anyway, here they are. This is all @ 1680x1050.
Counterstrike source: Max settings, 208.49FPS(71fps improvement)
Crysis (16xQAA/AF): 26.27 (no improvement)
3Dmark06-10554 (+1353)
3Dmark03-35328 (+16831)

Well, Im not sure what to think anymore. Why is Joe score teh same as mine yet he has half the ram and was @ a lower clock speed?







I dont think my card is running up to snuff. Do you guys think I'm bottlenecking?
At anyrate, when I get back from school Im going to slap the 9600 in and run the tests again then we'll have a good comparison.









BlackOmega, I think your rig is running fine. Those are some great results from CSS. There could be some bottlenecking occurring. Like I said before these cards are just to fast for our rigs. You'd probably see some what of a difference with a Phenom II/Core i7 set up but is it really worth it? Probably not.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
The human eye does not see past 30FPS.

Tator, this is a common misconception. Some will disagree and some will agree. Everyone's eyes are different so to say the human eyes can't see past 30fps may not be accurate









Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
No. A Brisbane has the same amount of cache as a Manchester.

Blitz, don't forget about the 3600+ X2 with 256K cache (Manchester).

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
XP server 2003 IIRC is the first iteration of vista without the eye candy and is still considered the best of either xp or vista.

Hueristic, are you referring to the Windows 2003 Server (win2k3) OS? That is a completely different from Vista. It came out April of 03 so I don't think it has anything to do with Vista. Perhaps I'm just confused by your post?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Hueristic, are you referring to the Windows 2003 Server (win2k3) OS? That is a completely different from Vista. It came out April of 03 so I don't think it has anything to do with Vista. Perhaps I'm just confused by your post?



Hueristic, were you meaning server 2008?

I was under the impression that xp x64 and server 2003 were the same engine and that is why the updates from microsoft use the same update for the service packs.

Now I'm really confused.

On a lighter note. I got my ICU system running smooth as butter with only one camera. turns out there is a option to disable the other ports so that when I'm running only 1 camera I don't have to split the fps from 60 to 15.

Now 15 fps is for the birds and 60 fps is FTW.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Hueristic, are you referring to the Windows 2003 Server (win2k3) OS? That is a completely different from Vista. It came out April of 03 so I don't think it has anything to do with Vista. Perhaps I'm just confused by your post?


My mind is fuzzy right now so I may be off base here. On a side not I just went to microsoft.com and I get

Code:


Code:


Address Not Found

Firefox can't find the server at www.microsoft.com.

The browser could not find the host server for the provided address.

    * Did you make a mistake when typing the domain? (e.g. "ww.mozilla.org" instead of "www.mozilla.org")
    * Are you certain this domain address exists?  Its registration may have expired.
    * Are you unable to browse other sites?  Check your network connection and DNS server settings.
    * Is your computer or network protected by a firewall or proxy?  Incorrect settings can interfere with Web browsing.

!!!!! I've never seen this before! LOl think they went out of business?









Is it just me? I can't get to grisoft.com either?? wierd

Code:


Code:


C:Documents and SettingsLicheLord>ping microsoft.com -a
Ping request could not find host microsoft.com. Please check the name and try ag
ain.

OK after thinking about this (server 2003/vista) IIRC I had a RC2 that had the NT 6.0 Kernal (I>E> Vista) I'll look around for it later. Right now I'm trying to figure out what is wrong with my DNS. 
*Does anyone else have a problem getting to microshaft? Post the direct IP please I can't even tracert it.*


----------



## pioneerisloud

Server 2003 = Windows XP
Server 2008 = Vista

Same stuff, just different optimizations.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


/Glad I have Retail XP.

Though still, I'm not getting why his proc is not able to handle Vista well.

I get similar game performance (+/- 4 FPS) in almost every game, when playing in XP or Vista, and I have a Brisbane 4000+ @ 2.8. 
Before that I was running @ 2.0 (stock) and still doing fine. 
I only overclocked so I could get some better multi tasking going. 
And Obviously I am running 2 lower spec cards than he is and never seemed to encounter this issues.

Is their that much difference between his x2 3800+ and my x2 4000+ if both are at the same speed?

I mean the only real difference I can see is that my RAM is faster. But he has twice as much as I do.


The thing is that CS:S has a big disadvantage in vista of having unbearable mini.fps's when the CPU isn't clocked high enough. Hence, 30 fps.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Guys, the issue at hand isn't AVERAGE framerates on CSS. That's perfectly fine according to Pez. Its when it drops down to below 60 is when he's getting the problems. As we ALL know (who have played it), CSS NEEDS those higher framerates to be smooth. So if he's seeing 30 FPS instead of 90....then yeah, it's going to be unplayable.

There was a server we were in, and my Opteron was clocked at 2.70GHz, and I was seeing as low as 45 FPS. He was seeing as low as 30 @ 2.5GHz. Custom maps...that's why







.


He's correct^

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


But the issue is XP versus Vista. The drivers for the two systems are different. Exacerbated by the fact that for all of us, our XP experience was x86 and our Vista experience is x64. (Though, Pez and I have both done Vista x86 and x64; but I have not played CS:S in any.)

Pez: Has XP Compatibility mode helped any?


This is the 3rd time you've asked this blitz







. Didn't do anything.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


I can play CSS at 16x12 with 30FPS just fine. 
Doesn't look bad to me.

The human eye does not see past 30FPS.

Maybe something to consider for more stable FPS is Vsync, I turn that on in every game. Makes them play so smooth. Especially source games.


Actually the human eye can see up to 60 FPS. i don't have the best vision, but 30 FPS isn't playable in CSS. It might be in Crysis, but in CSS, no. I've tried turning on Vsync, but it actually causes me some mouse lag, and IDK why...the kinda mouse lag you see in 3rd person shooters.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


XP server 2003 IIRC is the first iteration of vista without the eye candy and is still considered the best of either xp or vista.

Dude, Not to be a grammar Nazi but can you stop the "teh" stuff? It confuses me when reading posts. My brain is foggy with the chronic pain and meds. I know it seems trite but I have to keep going back to read your posts multiple times. It's my problem but if you could stop it would help me.









Read my sig!




















































Or if he will give you a comparable am3 board/chip.




































:appl aud:
Let us know what you find before buying. There are a few people here with these that can help you get the best bang for your buck.







































Oh i've already made the deal, just making payments. Getting it (it's never been OC'ed) for $110.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 

Oh i've already made the deal, just making payments. Getting it (it's never been OC'ed) for $110.

Good find. I should have bought 2xopty 180's when I got the first one. oh well I guess that other $170.00 be prolly be better spent on system upgrades like newer mobo etc etc etc.

Nice job on the opty for sure. those are hard to find. they go for that and then some on ebay all the time.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Good find. I should have bought 2xopty 180's when I got the first one. oh well I guess that other $170.00 be prolly be better spent on system upgrades like newer mobo etc etc etc.

Nice job on the opty for sure. those are hard to find. they go for that and then some on ebay all the time.

Yep yep







. I think I may take that offer on the HD 4870


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
OK after thinking about this (server 2003/vista) IIRC I had a RC2 that had the NT 6.0 Kernal (I>E> Vista) I'll look around for it later. Right now I'm trying to figure out what is wrong with my DNS.
*Does anyone else have a problem getting to microshaft? Post the direct IP please I can't even tracert it.*

Hueristic, I honestly think Win2k3 is far from Vista. They are both completely different operating systems. On the other Win2k8 is similar to Vista (themes and what not). The console version of Win2k8 I thought was kind of a joke.

Try 4.2.2.x for your DNS. I normally use 4.2.2.3. Do you have Timewarner as your ISP? Late at night their DNS servers seem to have troubles resolving. I started using 4.2.2.2 with much success









Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Yep yep







. I think I may take that offer on the HD 4870


pez one thing at a time. You may get the opty and have success with your two vid cards. I look at it like this. SLI Speeds are better than single card speeds if you are comparing two identical cards. 1x 9800GT vs 2x 9800GT in SLI. Now if for some reason down the road you decide that you want more then on pc you will already have 2 nice cards that you can split up and use in two different rigs. just my 2 cents.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
3DMark06 is a very CPU-Centric benchmark. You will notice that your CPU speed is a substantial part of the overall score, effecting all three stats. Single-core CPUs tend to be incapable of breaking 6000. Dual-core CPUs do better, and quad-core CPUs do better still. The benchmark is also very nVidia/Intel favoring. I too am having problems with Crysis BlackOmega. No matter what I do, I cannot get more than 35-40 FPS whether I run 1280x800 0xAA, medspec DX9 or 1920x1200 4xAA, highspec DX10. I think it is a driver issue with CCC.


Crysis is the weird one, if I turn AA/AF off the difference in framerate is usually less than 1 frame per second.
As for 3d06, Ive noticed its not only the cpu scores that go up but also the sm2.0/3.0 scores. Therefore leading me to believe that, as much as I hate to admit it, the CPU is bottlenecking.
I run 3d03 to see actual graphic card performance increase, which yet again showed me that the CPU is bottlenecking the card pretty badly, because the only difference was the CPU speed, the more I raise it the higher the score goes.
Just for kicks and giggles, download 3Dmark03, run it at stock clocks. Then run it OC'd, Im curious how much your score will change.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Guys, the issue at hand isn't AVERAGE framerates on CSS. That's perfectly fine according to Pez. Its when it drops down to below 60 is when he's getting the problems. As we ALL know (who have played it), CSS NEEDS those higher framerates to be smooth. So if he's seeing 30 FPS instead of 90....then yeah, it's going to be unplayable.

There was a server we were in, and my Opteron was clocked at 2.70GHz, and I was seeing as low as 45 FPS. He was seeing as low as 30 @ 2.5GHz. *Custom maps*...that's why







.

Theres part of your problem.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Not in CSS







. Like Pez said, I ran with him this morning at identical clocks, and we were within 1-2 FPS apart, and I was watching somebody else by mistake (*I was spectating,* he was playing). Cache makes very little to no difference in CSS...its all about clock speed, and that's it.

Theres the other. For 1 custom maps, for the most part, are textured REALLY badly. There are always going to be areas where, for no reason whatsoever, your FPS will drop like a rock. I was playing on a custom map when I looked at an area on a particular wall and in 1 spot and 1 spot only my fps would drop below 30. Anywhere else on the same wall I was getting 150+. 2 when spectating there's an inherent lag and bandwidth issue, as the server receives the info from 1 client then processes it then sends it to you. Which will sometimes make it appear choppy even at high frame rates.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 

Dude, Not to be a grammar Nazi but can you stop the "teh" stuff? It confuses me when reading posts. My brain is foggy with the chronic pain and meds. I know it seems trite but I have to keep going back to read your posts multiple times. It's my problem but if you could stop it would help me.









Lol so sorry Hue. I type 57 words per minute and sometimes letters get misplaced. Well, honestly, a lot of the time letters get misplaced.







Ill make sure theres no more "teh"









Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, I think your rig is running fine. Those are some great results from CSS. There could be some bottlenecking occurring. Like I said before these cards are just to fast for our rigs. You'd probably see some what of a difference with a Phenom II/Core i7 set up but is it really worth it? Probably not.

Well I defintely wouldnt be going i7. Its just too expensive and from what Ive been reading, theyre really not that great overclockers. Seems like the intel fanboys are having lots of stability issues with them.
And as for the PII 940 rig, since all I really need is a board/CPU/RAM it really wouldnt be that expensive. And they seem to overclock nicely. So Im seriously considering selling off some of my 939 stuff. Ill definitely keep at least one rig. Which one is yet to be determined.

At any rate if any of you guys might be interested in any of my 939 stuff PM me.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I wonder why I don't ever report any problems playing games at 1680 x 1050? Some of you have faster CPUs, or overclocked cards, or maybe even multi-GPUs, but are having tons more problems with your games.

I put the disc in, run the executable, and never ever worry about framerates. I just play the game and enjoy it...


----------



## pioneerisloud

I was merely comparing framerates as closely as I could. I wasn't about to try to play....I get killed right after I spawn!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I wonder why I don't ever report any problems playing games at 1680 x 1050? Some of you have faster CPUs, or overclocked cards, or maybe even multi-GPUs, but are having tons more problems with your games.

I put the disc in, run the executable, and never ever worry about framerates. I just play the game and enjoy it...

Nah, its because you are the almighty joe!


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Okay, a local buddy of mine (PR1M3R) has acquired some DICE equipment. He wants to get some AMD records. Should I allow him to use my Opteron 165 + Corsair XMS that hits DDR550 + Asus A8N32-SLI Deluxe?

I know this chip can PROBABLY hold records. I mean c'mon, I can get to near 3.3GHz on air with it. But is it worth the risk? What do you guys think?

Do you get your name on the record? And what will he give you if he get's his name on it?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
I can play CSS at 16x12 with 30FPS just fine.
Doesn't look bad to me.

The human eye does not see past 30FPS.

Maybe something to consider for more stable FPS is Vsync, I turn that on in every game. Makes them play so smooth. Especially source games.

The human eye can see at least 220FPS, the US Military did a study and tested up to this point.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I wonder why I don't ever report any problems playing games at 1680 x 1050? Some of you have faster CPUs, or overclocked cards, or maybe even multi-GPUs, but are having tons more problems with your games.

I put the disc in, run the executable, and never ever worry about framerates. I just play the game and enjoy it...

Could it be the awesome hardware combination...???

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I was merely comparing framerates as closely as I could. I wasn't about to try to play....I get killed right after I spawn!

Don't feel bad I am the same way. I get in and get fragged before I even get a couple of shots off. Darn Spawn Campers...


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Hueristic, I honestly think Win2k3 is far from Vista. They are both completely different operating systems. On the other Win2k8 is similar to Vista (themes and what not). The console version of Win2k8 I thought was kind of a joke.

Try 4.2.2.x for your DNS. I normally use 4.2.2.3. Do you have Timewarner as your ISP? Late at night their DNS servers seem to have troubles resolving. I started using 4.2.2.2 with much success









Good luck

This is the weirdest thing. SVCHOST (child of AVG) was hung when I woke up useing 100% cpu and now I have alot of sites I can't access.

Tried
1. another system on my network has no problem
2. hosts file is fine
3. flushed dns cache.
4. tried many (includeing the ones you recommended) dns servers
5. direct ip connect fails
6. cannot ping or tracert grisoft.com or microsoft.com by resolution or direct
7. rolled back registry
8. changes internal ip scheme.
9. rebooted nat and both routers and gateway hub.

I'm running out of idea's

Maybe this will force me to finish up my opty system as I'll have to reinstall os anyway!


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Crysis is the weird one, if I turn AA/AF off the difference in framerate is usually less than 1 frame per second.
As for 3d06, Ive noticed its not only the cpu scores that go up but also the sm2.0/3.0 scores. Therefore leading me to believe that, as much as I hate to admit it, the CPU is bottlenecking.
I run 3d03 to see actual graphic card performance increase, which yet again showed me that the CPU is bottlenecking the card pretty badly, because the only difference was the CPU speed, the more I raise it the higher the score goes.
Just for kicks and giggles, download 3Dmark03, run it at stock clocks. Then run it OC'd, Im curious how much your score will change.

I might try that later yeah. Personally, I think Vantage is a farer benchmark than 06. It requires Vista to run however due to the Dx10 requirement. However, there is a CPU score and a GPU score. The overall score is almost simple average of the two. My HD 4870x2 performs comparably in GPU score to those based off a 4.0 GHz Core2Quad. (My overall score suffers due to the "low" CPU score.)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I put the disc in, run the executable, and never ever worry about framerates. I just play the game and enjoy it...

Joe, I'm the exact same way. Install the game and just play









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
This is the weirdest thing. SVCHOST (child of AVG) was hung when I woke up useing 100% cpu and now I have alot of sites I can't access.

Tried
1. another system on my network has no problem
2. hosts file is fine
3. flushed dns cache.
4. tried many (includeing the ones you recommended) dns servers
5. direct ip connect fails
6. cannot ping or tracert grisoft.com or microsoft.com by resolution or direct
7. rolled back registry
8. changes internal ip scheme.
9. rebooted nat and both routers and gateway hub.

I'm running out of idea's

Maybe this will force me to finish up my opty system as I'll have to reinstall os anyway!

Hueristic, svchost.exe is also a Windows service(which I'm sure you are aware of). Download "process explorer" and see what is running underneath yours. What applications have you installed recently? Do an "ipconfig /all" and copy and paste that in here. Are you sure your tcp/ip settings aren't setup for static or pointing to some other dns servers?

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Could it be the awesome hardware combination...???

I don't think my rig is faster overall than many other people's rigs here. If anything, I'm one of the more conservative types here.

I mean, seriously. Can the HD 4870 really outrun even an SLIed G92 setup?

I honestly hate benchmarking; it's painfully boring to me, and I think it's rather pointless. ePeen-wagging just isn't something that's particularly interesting to me.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, I'm the exact same way. Install the game and just play









Providing you don't have any software issues. I still can't get into a game of quakelive.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Providing you don't have any software issues. I still can't get into a game of quakelive.









N2Gaming, what are the issues/symptoms that are preventing this?

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I mean, seriously. Can the HD 4870 really outrun even an SLIed G92 setup?

No way in heck.

EDIT: See: This link.

It seems like in most games (exception being Enemy Territory: Quake Wars, which is heavily ATi favorable) the 8800 GTs dominate over an HD 4870.


----------



## thlnk3r

The 4870 is still a great card for the price. In my opinion the 48x0 series cars are overkill. My brother still games on a X800XT at 1680x1050 resolution


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I don't think my rig is faster overall than many other people's rigs here. If anything, I'm one of the more conservative types here.

I mean, seriously. Can the HD 4870 really outrun even an SLIed G92 setup?

I honestly hate benchmarking; it's painfully boring to me, and I think it's rather pointless. ePeen-wagging just isn't something that's particularly interesting to me.


txtmstrjoe, I was refering to your awesome mobo, ram, 750w psu, 2x 500 gig WD I asume in raid 0 for speed, in regards to your vid card well I don't know any thing about ATI. I try to stick to one brand. The one that has never let me down.







"Nvidia"









Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, what are the issues/symptoms that are preventing this?

Good luck


Thanks for the luck. I can't play in win 7 x64 becuase it locks the mouse and I can't play in xp x64 becuase it won't finish loading for some dumb reason. I have yet to reformat reload win 7 32 bit for another go at it, it's just time consuming and tedious work that I prefer to avoid.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thanks for the luck. I can't play in win 7 x64 becuase it locks the mouse and I can't play in xp x64 becuase it won't finish loading for some dumb reason. I have yet to reformat reload win 7 32 bit for another go at it, it's just time consuming and tedious work that I prefer to avoid.


N2Gaming, is quake live supported under a 64-bit OS? Sounds like you're experiencing some compatibility issues.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, is quake live supported under a 64-bit OS? Sounds like you're experiencing some compatibility issues.

Good luck


Being the newb that I am and all I don't know the answer about 64 bit compatablility nor have I spent a lot of time reading up on it. I just figured some one would knock on my front door and say Hi you don't know me but I'm here to help you with your quakelive problems.





















Jk

seriously I am testing beta stuff when I don't know as much as I should for doing so.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Crysis is the weird one, if I turn AA/AF off the difference in framerate is usually less than 1 frame per second. 
As for 3d06, Ive noticed its not only the cpu scores that go up but also the sm2.0/3.0 scores. Therefore leading me to believe that, as much as I hate to admit it, the CPU is bottlenecking. 
I run 3d03 to see actual graphic card performance increase, which yet again showed me that the CPU is bottlenecking the card pretty badly, because the only difference was the CPU speed, the more I raise it the higher the score goes. 
Just for kicks and giggles, download 3Dmark03, run it at stock clocks. Then run it OC'd, Im curious how much your score will change.

Theres part of your problem.

Theres the other. For 1 custom maps, for the most part, are textured REALLY badly. There are always going to be areas where, for no reason whatsoever, your FPS will drop like a rock. I was playing on a custom map when I looked at an area on a particular wall and in 1 spot and 1 spot only my fps would drop below 30. Anywhere else on the same wall I was getting 150+. 2 when spectating there's an inherent lag and bandwidth issue, as the server receives the info from 1 client then processes it then sends it to you. Which will sometimes make it appear choppy even at high frame rates.

Lol so sorry Hue. I type 57 words per minute and sometimes letters get misplaced. Well, honestly, a lot of the time letters get misplaced.







Ill make sure theres no more "teh"









Well I defintely wouldnt be going i7. Its just too expensive and from what Ive been reading, theyre really not that great overclockers. Seems like the intel fanboys are having lots of stability issues with them. 
And as for the PII 940 rig, since all I really need is a board/CPU/RAM it really wouldnt be that expensive. And they seem to overclock nicely. So Im seriously considering selling off some of my 939 stuff. Ill definitely keep at least one rig. Which one is yet to be determined.

At any rate if any of you guys might be interested in any of my 939 stuff PM me.










It does it even on a map like de_dust 2. And it's besides the point. I play custom maps 99% of the time I'm playing CSS, and CSS is the game I play 95% of the time I'm playing a game...so..yeah.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I wonder why I don't ever report any problems playing games at 1680 x 1050? Some of you have faster CPUs, or overclocked cards, or maybe even multi-GPUs, but are having tons more problems with your games.

I put the disc in, run the executable, and never ever worry about framerates. I just play the game and enjoy it...


Joe, so what games do you play? I'm curious at least to the settings you use? I'm pretty sure most every game maxes out on it right? With the exception of crysis duh. Not to mention the HD 4870 is a dead sexy card. I'm just complaining about frames b/c the gameplay isn't always as smooth as is expected. Also N2, the thing is, when I upgrade, I wanna go the AM3 route and AMD is not that great at making good OC'ing SLI boards anymore. Therefore, the HD 4870 would be a great single card solution. Not to mention it'd take up much less power, space, and would allow me to lower my vcore again







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


. Also N2, the thing is, when I upgrade, I wanna go the AM3 route and AMD is not that great at making good OC'ing SLI boards anymore. .


I have been wondering about that one my self. I bet nvidia is working on an am3 chipset that will bring true 16x16x back to the table for sli. Prolly being as ATI and AMD are one in the same then maybe Nvidia is getting the short end of the stick on the cpu's for testing when and if they develope and make newer chipsets. Heck there is not a lot of am2+ boards that do x16x16 ATM.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


No way in heck.

EDIT: See: This link.

It seems like in most games (exception being Enemy Territory: Quake Wars, which is heavily ATi favorable) the 8800 GTs dominate over an HD 4870.


My point exactly.

So why am I not having any problems with my setup that many of you seem to be having with more powerful equipment at your disposal?

EDIT: For pez's benefit mainly, since he asked: What games do I play?

I've got a lot of games on my list, any one of which I'll play with when I have time or when I just have that itch to scratch.

Here's a short list of my regulars:

Madden NFL 08
rFactor
F1 Challenge
GTR Evolution
Race07
Star Wars: Knights of the Old Republic
Battlefield 2
Half Life 2
Grand Theft Auto: San Andreas
When I feel more in the mood for a shooter, I go:

Call of Duty 4
Ghost Recon: Advanced Warfighter
Doom 3
Half Life 2: Lost Coast
F.E.A.R. (and its sequels, the names of which I don't remember at the moment)
Plus a whole gamut of other titles that I've only just dabbled in and not really concentrated on at the moment since I don't have much time to game.

I seldom play shooters, though; I mainly play my football and racing games. Nevertheless, I play at 1680 x 1050, with max details (except for GTR Evo, which has stuttering problems; I dial down the AA to 8x and AF to 2x. The game is still magnificently beautiful at those settings, though).

Maybe my standards are far lower than most people's, but I can say in all honesty that I have no problems apart from GTR Evo. In that game's case, I would say it's likely to be more a software issue (driver optimizations) than something in the hardware. All it takes to solve the stuttering problem, as noted, is to dial down the eye candy by a little bit; the visual quality doesn't deteriorate much, if at all, either.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
My point exactly.

So why am I not having any problems with my setup that many of you seem to be having with more powerful equipment at your disposal?

My games run fine on my rig. Crysis/City of Heroes/COD4 very playable and pretty. I only use a 1280x1024 res, but that's plenty for me.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I have been wondering about that one my self. I bet nvidia is working on an am3 chipset that will bring true 16x16x back to the table for sli. Prolly being as ATI and AMD are one in the same then maybe Nvidia is getting the short end of the stick on the cpu's for testing when and if they develope and make newer chipsets. Heck there is not a lot of am2+ boards that do x16x16 ATM.

Yeah, but even those don't have the greatest favor when it comes to overclocking







.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
My point exactly.

So why am I not having any problems with my setup that many of you seem to be having with more powerful equipment at your disposal?

EDIT: For pez's benefit mainly, since he asked: What games do I play?

I've got a lot of games on my list, any one of which I'll play with when I have time or when I just have that itch to scratch.

Here's a short list of my regulars:

Madden NFL 08
rFactor
F1 Challenge
GTR Evolution
Race07
Star Wars: Knights of the Old Republic
Battlefield 2
Half Life 2
Grand Theft Auto: San Andreas
When I feel more in the mood for a shooter, I go:

Call of Duty 4
Ghost Recon: Advanced Warfighter
Doom 3
Half Life 2: Lost Coast
F.E.A.R. (and its sequels, the names of which I don't remember at the moment)
Plus a whole gamut of other titles that I've only just dabbled in and not really concentrated on at the moment since I don't have much time to game.

I seldom play shooters, though; I mainly play my football and racing games. Nevertheless, I play at 1680 x 1050, with max details (except for GTR Evo, which has stuttering problems; I dial down the AA to 8x and AF to 2x. The game is still magnificently beautiful at those settings, though).

Maybe my standards are far lower than most people's, but I can say in all honesty that I have no problems apart from GTR Evo. In that game's case, I would say it's likely to be more a software issue (driver optimizations) than something in the hardware. All it takes to solve the stuttering problem, as noted, is to dial down the eye candy by a little bit; the visual quality doesn't deteriorate much, if at all, either.

Thank you for this joe. It helps a great deal. If I get a PM tonight, I think i'll take it.

I'm so indecisive, so it's time to play some games. Joe, I know you don't pay attention to framerates, but could you take a look on CoD4 MP and tell me an avg minimum of what you get?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
I'm so indecisive, so it's time to play some games. Joe, I know you don't pay attention to framerates, but could you take a look on CoD4 MP and tell me an avg minimum of what you get?

pez, next time I fire up CoD4 and if pio and/or Blitz are online, I'll go MP and let you know what the numbers are.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
could you take a look on CoD4 MP and tell me an avg minimum of what you get?

Pez, with my setup at 1440x900 I was getting an average between 50-90FPS. My brother on his X800XT with a 3600+ X2 (stock) at 1680x1050 gets about the same.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I am online... the next time Joe is home, he has no excuse now!

txtmstrjoe: For GTR Evolution, have you tried renaming the executable to "ETQW.exe?" Enemy Territory: Quake Wars is likely the best-optimized game for ATi in existence. Whenever presented with a game that does not do well with ATi and/or does not natively support Crossfire, renaming the executable tends to improve performance. This does not work on all games (namely, Crysis) but on the games it works on, what an improvement!


----------



## N2Gaming

I just got another package of goodies today and I just thought that I would share my experiance with you all and also take advantage of the oportunity to ask for some advice regarding the new goods.

I was just sitting at my pc doing research as is always. Day in and day out seems like a never ending battle these days for me. In any case I had my curtains open and I se the USPS truck pull up in front of my house. I got all excited and almost ran outside to get the package before he could get off the truck. Fail he met me half way.

so any way it looks like I might have to learn how to lapp or at least buff to a mirror shine if nothing else. I'll show you what I got in the mail and then explain what I need help with.


























































OK you can probably see that the bottom although it prolly won't make too much of a difference I was wondering if I could just use 2000 grit wet/dry paper w/a little polish like some Meguires Scratch X or is that not a good idea. I have never had to make a mirror finish but I don't want to have to start from scratch since this puppy is pretty much aready there. The scratches are not deep and I can hardly tell they are there. I saved like half from the store price and since I needed another HSF for testing I jumped @ the opportunity to buy this one.

Any suggestions are very much appriciated and rep'd for. I'm practicing not being stingy w/rep+ not that I am just trying to promote good practices.

Thank you,

N2G


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I am online... the next time Joe is home, he has no excuse now!


Uh oh. I've got a stalker on the prowl, waiting for me to get home from work...









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


txtmstrjoe: For GTR Evolution, have you tried renaming the executable to "ETQW.exe?" Enemy Territory: Quake Wars is likely the best-optimized game for ATi in existence. Whenever presented with a game that does not do well with ATi and/or does not natively support Crossfire, renaming the executable tends to improve performance. This does not work on all games (namely, Crysis) but on the games it works on, what an improvement!


Interesting. I shall have to try this sometime...


----------



## Blitz6804

N2Gaming: The shininess is irrelevant. What matters is how flat the cooler is. Despite some minor scratches, I do not think the cooler's performance would be impaired any.

That said: Here is GuardianOdin's guide on the subject.

My log on the subject is in six parts. Part 1 is here.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


OK you can probably see that the bottom although it prolly won't make too much of a difference I was wondering if I could just use 2000 grit wet/dry paper w/a little polish like some Meguires Scratch X or is that not a good idea. I have never had to make a mirror finish but I don't want to have to start from scratch since this puppy is pretty much aready there. The scratches are not deep and I can hardly tell they are there. I saved like half from the store price and since I needed another HSF for testing I jumped @ the opportunity to buy this one.


N2Gaming, that would be fine. I went up to I think 1500 or 2000 grit on my Si-128. After that I used some polish to make the base shine. After the polish I always clean with 90% isopropyl alcohol. Here the polish I use: http://master-formula.com/Metal%20Polish.htm (might want to mute your sound, there is an annoying video on that page).

Hope that helps


----------



## simfreak47

Got a new mobo! It's in my sig. Why doesn't she overclock as good as everyone else has had them


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
N2Gaming: The shininess is irrelevant. What matters is how flat the cooler is. Despite some minor scratches, I do not think the cooler's performance would be impaired any.

Blitz, doesn't mean it has to be discouraged besides polishing protected my base from tarnish/discoloration due to oxidation









Quote:


Originally Posted by *simfreak47* 
Got a new mobo! It's in my sig. Why doesn't she overclock as good as everyone else has had them









Simfreak47, did you start off on isolating each component to find it's limits (motherboard, processor and memory)? This is always the first procedure I take before I overclock. This will provide a nice baseline to work with. What luck have you had so far? If you can include some CPU-Z screen shots of what you have done so far then that would be great.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
N2Gaming: The shininess is irrelevant. What matters is how flat the cooler is. Despite some minor scratches, I do not think the cooler's performance would be impaired any.

That said: Here is GuardianOdin's guide on the subject.

My log on the subject is in six parts. Part 1 is here.

Thanks for the links plus rep+ to your sir.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, that would be fine. I went up to I think 1500 or 2000 grit on my Si-128. After that I used some polish to make the base shine. After the polish I always clean with 90% isopropyl alcohol. Here the polish I use: http://master-formula.com/Metal%20Polish.htm (might want to mute your sound, there is an annoying video on that page).

Hope that helps









thank you for the advice and link to the cool metal polish stuff.


----------



## Hueristic

9800GT doesn't fit with stock HS on the tyan board.









Tried with a 7950X2 and couldn't get a driver to work. Also no drivers for half the #%#%^$ on this board.

Swapped in a 8800gs and a dlink net card so i can get online to get drivers. That tyan site better be up today.

BBL hopefully with a baseline on this opty/tyan setup. I may have to mode the 9800 to get it to fit. depends on if the stock hs or my foxconn works better.

Took pics so i'll post them up too.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 






















9800GT doesn't fit with stock HS on the tyan board.









Tried with a 7950X2 and couldn't get a driver to work. Also no drivers for half the #%#%^$ on this board.

Swapped in a 8800gs and a dlink net card so i can get online to get drivers. That tyan site better be up today.

BBL hopefully with a baseline on this opty/tyan setup. I may have to mode the 9800 to get it to fit. depends on if the stock hs or my foxconn works better.

Took pics so i'll post them up too.

Cool










































bravo





















cheers





















make that sucker fit





















and a little wub for your struggles





















heres lookin at you kid





















becuase two thumbs is better then one





















unless you the fonze





















now lets ses that thing run.


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Simfreak47, did you start off on isolating each component to find it's limits (motherboard, processor and memory)? This is always the first procedure I take before I overclock. This will provide a nice baseline to work with. What luck have you had so far? If you can include some CPU-Z screen shots of what you have done so far then that would be great.

Good luck

Well, I haven't. I will do that when I get back on my desktop (downstairs ATM, watchin a movie







)

Will get y'all CPU-Z screenies!

edit - I love the motherboard, but apparently, they're pain's in the arse's to set up


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Cool










































bravo





















cheers





















make that sucker fit





















and a little wub for your struggles





















heres lookin at you kid





















becuase two thumbs is better then one





















unless you the fonze






















now lets ses that thing run.























LOL,







you made me chuckle with that post!!!

Well all stock first aquamark is 61k. Not bad.

Still no nic driver, tyan site gave up all the drivers but they are not in there.









Since it took so long to get this thing up and running I'm just gonna kick back for the rest of the night. No more work today! I'm getting lazy in my old age!!!!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *simfreak47*


Well, I haven't. I will do that when I get back on my desktop (downstairs ATM, watchin a movie







)

Will get y'all CPU-Z screenies!

edit - I love the motherboard, but apparently, they're pain's in the arse's to set up










that DFI mobo might be a little difficult to get it set up but once you learn your hardware and what settings work better then others then I'm sure you'll love it every bit as much and you expected you would when you decided to get it...

On a side note they can be a bit finiky with ram, coming from other peoples experience as well as my own and do your self a favor and get a matched pair of Ram like this.
This is only a single stick but they do come in a matched pair for duel channel use.

Good luck,

N2G


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *simfreak47*


Well, I haven't. I will do that when I get back on my desktop (downstairs ATM, watchin a movie







)

Will get y'all CPU-Z screenies!

edit - I love the motherboard, but apparently, they're pain's in the arse's to set up










Simfreak47, no problem. Below are a few links that will take you to some helpful guides:

http://icrontic.com/articles/a64_overclocking_theory
http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...ing-guide.html
http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...ocket-am2.html (follows AM2 processors but the process/procedures are still relative to S939).

Let us know if that helps

Good luck


----------



## pez

Ahhh, deal complete. I'm excited. HD 4870 512MB + $20 for 2x9800GT's. I know I just got my second one, but I'm really the one for a single beasty card over two great cards. Besides, they're equivalent performers, so I guess we shall see. We're both shipping our cards Wednesday







. Should be here for the weekend.


----------



## Hueristic

OK guys here's my specs. So lets hear some recommendations.









Code:



Code:


[Current Computer] 
      Computer Brand Name:TYAN Computer Corp S2865

[General Information] 
      Processor Name:AMD Opteron 165 
      Original Processor Freqency:1800.0 MHz 
      Original Processor Freqency [MHz]:1800

      CPU Brand Name:Dual Core AMD Opteron(tm) Processor 165 
      CPU Vendor:AuthenticAMD 
      CPU Stepping:JH-E6 (Socket 939) 
      CPU Code Name:Denmark 
      CPU Platform:Socket 939

      Number of CPU Cores:2 
      Number of Logical CPUs:2

      [Operating Points] 
      CPU HFM (Maximum):1800.0 MHz = 9.00 x 200.0 MHz @ 1.4000 V 
      CPU Current:1808.4 MHz = 9.00 x 200.9 MHz @ 1.3500 V

      CPU Bus Type:Hyper-Transport v1.02 
      Maximum Supported Hyper-Transport Link Clock:1000 MHz 
      Current Hyper-Transport Link Clock:1000 MHz


----------



## Blitz6804

If you run Core Temp, it will tell you what your FID is. I would presume it is 1.350 V, but it never hurts to be sure. The biggest disadvantage of a 165 is its 9x mutliplier. That is not to say that high clocks are not possible, but it is much harder to do unless you have a good board.

That said, the best way to overclock is to find the maximum of your RAM, CPU, and Motherboard. The cheap way to overclock, is drop your RAM one divider, and increase the HTT until it is on the edge of instability. The choice you pick is up to you, but in my experience, they produce similar results.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
OK guys here's my specs. So lets hear some recommendations.









Code:



Code:


[Current Computer] 
      Computer Brand Name:TYAN Computer Corp S2865

[General Information] 
      Processor Name:AMD Opteron 165 
      Original Processor Freqency:1800.0 MHz 
      Original Processor Freqency [MHz]:1800

      CPU Brand Name:Dual Core AMD Opteron(tm) Processor 165 
      CPU Vendor:AuthenticAMD 
      CPU Stepping:JH-E6 (Socket 939) 
      CPU Code Name:Denmark 
      CPU Platform:Socket 939

      Number of CPU Cores:2 
      Number of Logical CPUs:2

      [Operating Points] 
      CPU HFM (Maximum):1800.0 MHz = 9.00 x 200.0 MHz @ 1.4000 V 
      CPU Current:1808.4 MHz = 9.00 x 200.9 MHz @ 1.3500 V

      CPU Bus Type:Hyper-Transport v1.02 
      Maximum Supported Hyper-Transport Link Clock:1000 MHz 
      Current Hyper-Transport Link Clock:1000 MHz


Very nice







. You gonna drop the voltage to 1.35? Theres no need for it to be at 1.40 @ that speed.

EDIT: Nevermind maybe I need to get some sleep it seems I dont read so well when Ive been up all day









EDIT2: Hows the BIOS options? I remember reading some stuff on a Tyan (Tomkat?) board no too long ago. I almost bought one, I cant remember what diswaded me from it. Possibly that I couldnt download the manual for it.
At any rate, start crankin er up and lets see what shes got!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


OK guys here's my specs. So lets hear some recommendations.









Code:


Code:


[Current Computer] 
      Computer Brand Name:TYAN Computer Corp S2865

[General Information] 
      Processor Name:AMD Opteron 165 
      Original Processor Freqency:1800.0 MHz 
      Original Processor Freqency [MHz]:1800

      CPU Brand Name:Dual Core AMD Opteron(tm) Processor 165 
      CPU Vendor:AuthenticAMD 
      CPU Stepping:JH-E6 (Socket 939) 
      CPU Code Name:Denmark 
      CPU Platform:Socket 939

      Number of CPU Cores:2 
      Number of Logical CPUs:2

      [Operating Points] 
      CPU HFM (Maximum):1800.0 MHz = 9.00 x 200.0 MHz @ 1.4000 V 
      CPU Current:1808.4 MHz = 9.00 x 200.9 MHz @ 1.3500 V

      CPU Bus Type:Hyper-Transport v1.02 
      Maximum Supported Hyper-Transport Link Clock:1000 MHz 
      Current Hyper-Transport Link Clock:1000 MHz



go into your bios and start with the mobo limits. drop your cpu multi to 7 or 6 then drop your ram to ddr 100 or as low as you can and still get it to boot. then raise your fsb to 225 if it boots then go to 250 if it boots thengo to 275 if it boots then go to 300. at this point you may need to lower your ht multi from *5 to *4 becuase 300*5 = 1500 ht link







let us know what your mobo will do and take if from there.


----------



## Blitz6804

Moving 25 MHz on your HTT at a clip is a great way to roast an OS. I suggest the more reasonable 5 MHz. Do not just go if it boots, make sure it passes 30 minutes of OCCT v2.0 before moving on.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Moving 25 MHz on your HTT at a clip is a great way to roast an OS. I suggest the more reasonable 5 MHz. Do not just go if it boots, make sure it passes 30 minutes of OCCT v2.0 before moving on.


I'm assuming it's a clean install and most of the times running the disk to act like your going to install the os but do a repair will get it back up and going. In any case you are right I just don't have the paitience to find the limit of my mobo so I go untill it cry's and then I back it off either by fsb or ht multi. That's all.


----------



## Hueristic

Well I was lazy so I used systool. I had to use hwmon for the core temp, it started high at 65c









so systool got the ht/fsb up to 244 but the temp hit 68c and it got unstable so i dropped it to 240.

I haven't removed the hs yet. So I'm hopeing the original thermal paste is junk. But I had no way to know what it had originally so rather than replaceing it I went with the original as it came shipped with the proc and hs installed. I'll clean them and reinstall tomorrow and see if I bet better temps then I'll try the foxconn hs I got.

I ran a *DUH just forgot my 3dmark score at stock! Hah well "I got it saved. I'll rerun it and aquamark(I like this alot better) and post results in a minute.


----------



## Blitz6804

Thermal spec for an Opteron 165 is 65Âº @ 1.350 V just to help. The thermal pad that comes pre-attached to coolers is better than the olden days, but not as good as some of the aftermarket pastes that are out there.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Thermal spec for an Opteron 165 is 65Âº @ 1.350 V just to help. The thermal pad that comes pre-attached to coolers is better than the olden days, but not as good as some of the aftermarket pastes that are out there.










LOL though it was 70! Well guess I'm gonna blow this thing up!!!
















I never could hold onto anything good!









HEY guys what should the offset be in CORETEMP? It's reporting 44/47c for temps and I kinda believe HWinfo32 reporting 67c


----------



## pez

Hmm sorry to interrupt the current convo, but what is the thermal spec for the Opty 170?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Hmm sorry to interrupt the current convo, but what is the thermal spec for the Opty 170?

Same as all Opterons: 65 degs C.







(The only difference in implementation here, of course, is in the CPU multiplier.)

These are the "official" AMD figures. Nevertheless, in actual practice these numbers are far off the mark. These chips can tolerate and survive much higher thermal loads (even sustained thermal loads) than the measly 65 degs C.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Same as all Opterons: 65 degs C.







(The only difference in implementation here, of course, is in the CPU multiplier.)

These are the "official" AMD figures. Nevertheless, in actual practice these numbers are far off the mark. These chips can tolerate and survive much higher thermal loads (even sustained thermal loads) than the measly 65 degs C.









Not to sound like an AMD fanboy, but for the Core vs K8 generation of CPUs I have always noticed the AMD chips can take a beating much easier.

You can crank 65nm x2s up to 1.47 volts and not worry at all.
While a Core 2 E4xxx/6xxx at 1.45 is pushing it. And a worry spot.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Same as all Opterons: 65 degs C.







(The only difference in implementation here, of course, is in the CPU multiplier.)

These are the "official" AMD figures. Nevertheless, in actual practice these numbers are far off the mark. These chips can tolerate and survive much higher thermal loads (even sustained thermal loads) than the measly 65 degs C.










Thanks joe! Haha, I'd give you rep...but obviously I can't, so take it as theoretical rep. I say the same for pio and blitz as well b/c of all the help they've given me over AIM and Steam.


----------



## phantommaggot

Hi guys
im new, but can i still join
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...g?t=1234277286

alot of my setup is there and its running in an
asus a8n-sli deluxe
with a
bfg 6600gt oc
cooled by a
zalman CNPS7000B-AlCu LED (low profile flower)

in the mail now
2gb ocz ddr
silverstone fm123 for the front of my case (extra ~50 cfm)
xigmatek cooler http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835233014

coming soon
motherboard supporting ddr2
2 x BFG gforce 8800gtx oc2
Dual core cpu

and if anyone could tell me which S939 dual core chips will run 2.8 - 3.0 GHz on my setup (xigmatek) that would help me alot (and probably save me alot of time... this thread alone is 1240 pages)

thanks
-j


----------



## Blitz6804

Welcome aboard phantommaggot. I will add you to the off-site roster when I get home tonight. There is no "sure bet" for 2.8-3.0 GHz, but Toledo 4400+ / 4800+ and Denmark 170/175 are likely your best bet though.


----------



## dani9998

hey all... 
i need help with overclocking my CPU ...
i'm trying to get over 232Mhz in the bus ( with 10x multipler and i didnt changed voltages)
my HT link is on x4 and my memories in 2 / 1.63(not overclocked)
and i dont know how to get higher Mhz in the bus..
every time i try more than 232mhz 
my computer restarts after post or before the windows shows up..
plz help








ty!


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Welcome aboard phantommaggot. I will add you to the off-site roster when I get home tonight. There is no "sure bet" for 2.8-3.0 GHz, but Toledo 4400+ / 4800+ and Denmark 170/175 are likely your best bet though.


Also for clarification, by Denmark 170/175, he's speaking of the Opteron 170 and 175. Tigerdirect also has some Opty 180's left.


----------



## Hueristic

Man I miss bootgaurd! I lowered the HTT to 100 and got continual lockups before i could even get in the cmos! Think I'll stick with the software oc'ing on this thing, My back can't take the manual cmos reset.







Also I can't find a multi option in the bios. Is that because this chip is locked at 9?


----------



## Hueristic

OMF'NG! fir sheets and grins I ran auquamark on failsafe settings and it ran 1100 higher!

My head hurts!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Moving 25 MHz on your HTT at a clip is a great way to roast an OS. I suggest the more reasonable 5 MHz. Do not just go if it boots, make sure it passes 30 minutes of OCCT v2.0 before moving on.

Blitz, honestly the first time I installed my processor(Opteron 170) I went straight for the gold and started off with a 1Ghz overclock. I knew my DFI board was capable of 300HTT on stock voltage so that's one of the reasons I didn't hesitate









Quote:


Originally Posted by *phantommaggot* 
Hi guys
im new, but can i still join
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...g?t=1234277286

alot of my setup is there and its running in an
asus a8n-sli deluxe
with a
bfg 6600gt oc
cooled by a
zalman CNPS7000B-AlCu LED (low profile flower)

Phantommaggot, welcome to OCN









I have added you to the roster, welcome to the club. Nothing is guaranteed but you would probably have better luck with a Opteron 165 or 170 if you wanted to hit those speeds. How far have you taken your 3500+? The Winchester core is a bit of a pain to play with so I understand where you're coming from.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Think I'll stick with the software oc'ing on this thing, My back can't take the manual cmos reset.

Hueristic, are you sure you want to stick with software overclocking? Aren't you very limiting in terms of options?

Good luck guys


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz, honestly the first time I installed my processor(Opteron 170) I went straight for the gold and started off with a 1Ghz overclock. I knew my DFI board was capable of 300HTT on stock voltage so that's one of the reasons I didn't hesitate









Me too. Went straight for 3Ghz when I got my Expert.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *phantommaggot*


Hi guys
im new, but can i still join
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...g?t=1234277286

alot of my setup is there and its running in an 
asus a8n-sli deluxe
with a
bfg 6600gt oc
cooled by a 
zalman CNPS7000B-AlCu LED (low profile flower)

in the mail now
2gb ocz ddr
silverstone fm123 for the front of my case (extra ~50 cfm)
xigmatek cooler http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835233014

coming soon
motherboard supporting ddr2
2 x BFG gforce 8800gtx oc2
Dual core cpu

and if anyone could tell me which S939 dual core chips will run 2.8 - 3.0 GHz on my setup (xigmatek) that would help me alot (and probably save me alot of time... this thread alone is 1240 pages)

thanks
-j


Hey phantommaggot Welcome to OCN and to this Club. Here is a quick link for you to share all your specks with the rest of us to help you try to push that little guy a little more.







I'm curiouse to see how far you can push that little chip. I have a naked venice 3500+ that I will run some more when ever I get around to it. I needed an extra HSF but now I have no excuse. Oh yeah Power supply. That's my next excuse.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Me too. Went straight for 3Ghz when I got my Expert.










GO that would be a 1.2Ghz overlcock correct?

I have to say having a DFI board does have it's perks.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Hueristic, are you sure you want to stick with software overclocking? Aren't you very limiting in terms of options?

Good luck guys


I'm more limited in terms of mobility









when I get a baseline I'll do the cmos ramba. But it took me all morning to get the cmos cleared and the pics on my pc.

Here's the 8800GT not fitting and the 7950GX2 fitting but then not working:swearing:


----------



## thlnk3r

Hueristic, if that top piece on the video card wasn't there it would fit. That is the stock cooler correct? An aftermarket cooler would allow you to fit the card. I'm not there to physically see the two components so I am not 100% sure.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Hueristic: It is generally not a good idea to lower HTT below 200. Most motherboards will not permit you to decrease the setting lower than 200. (My GA-K8NSC-939 for example had options between 200 and 435.)

Unless you meant whenever you drop your HyperTransport below 1000 (5x)...


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


GO that would be a 1.2Ghz overlcock correct?

I have to say having a DFI board does have it's perks.










correct. The Opty 165 comes standard at 1.8Ghz


----------



## Jacka

What happened to your trusty old ASRock Hue?


----------



## Blitz6804

He still has it mounted with his single-core CPU. The new dual-core CPU is mounted on the new Tyan motherboard.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jacka*


What happened to your trusty old ASRock Hue?


It's on deck!









I'm about to post some pics of my cooler on that board to try to identify it. I'll link here.


----------



## Jacka

Ah right, I haven't kept up with this thread for the past couple of days.

What's your new CPU Hue?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Thermal spec for an Opteron 165 is 65Âº @ 1.350 V just to help. The thermal pad that comes pre-attached to coolers is better than the olden days, but not as good as some of the aftermarket pastes that are out there.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*









LOL though it was 70! Well guess I'm gonna blow this thing up!!!

















Listed above.


----------



## Hueristic

http://www.overclock.net/computer-ca...ml#post5548695

Opty 165 Jacka running real hot at stock so when I can get to it I think I will use the cooler in this link. But I need to make or buy a bracket for it. So anyhelp identifying it will be appreciated.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


http://www.overclock.net/computer-ca...ml#post5548695

Opty 165 Jacka running real hot at stock so when I can get to it I think I will use the cooler in this link. But I need to make or buy a bracket for it. So anyhelp identifying it will be appreciated.


Well ones things for sure, it has a Thermal take sticker on the fan. I had a Thermal take HSF and I don't think those are much better then Stock HSF. Is it an all aluminum block or does it have heat tubes?

It looks very similar to this one found on there web sight.

















Venus 12 Extreme high-performance 64-bit solution

USD : 29.99 
*P/N: A1744*

 Compare 
Detail...


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Well ones things for sure, it has a Thermal take sticker on the fan. I had a Thermal take HSF and I don't think those are much better then Stock HSF. Is it an all aluminum block or does it have heat tubes?

It looks very similar to this one found on there web sight.

















Venus 12 Extreme high-performance 64-bit solution

USD : 29.99 
*P/N: A1744*

 Compare 
Detail... 






































:appl aud:

+rep for you sir!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*





































:appl aud:

+rep for you sir!










Thanks for the rep+ I'll take all I can get.









In regards to comment above the link to the HSF. Well Let's just say that I purchased This one. and it sucked eggs. That is why I asked if it was all alluinum.









TR2-R1 The Ultra-Quiet Heatsink for AMD Socket AM2/K8

USD : 19.99 
*P/N: A4022*

 Compare 
Detail... 









Edit: This is not a beg for rep so please don't rep me on this.

I just notice my total # of post's are at 1500 with this post.

Then I noticed my rep is at 59 with this post.

That equates to about a 25/1 ratio of posts vs reps.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thanks for the rep+ I'll take all I can get.









In regards to comment above the link to the HSF. Well Let's just say that I purchased This one. and it sucked eggs. That is why I asked if it was all alluinum.









TR2-R1  The Ultra-Quiet Heatsink for AMD Socket AM2/K8

USD : 19.99 
*P/N: A4022*

 Compare 
Detail... 










Yup it's all copper and nice tight fins. If you check the link you gave me it has a nice description!









I temp wired it down on my 3200+ a couple years ago and haven't touched it since! LOL so much for the temp mounting job!

* to keep this thread on topic is why i posted in the other thread, If you check the link the other guy posted on it, it is bstock now for sale for $10 at thermalike. I think just the fan is worth that.
I bought it in a pinch at a crappy computer store (they had 3 to pick from) that one looked best and paid $40. The box says foxconn but i looked up the model number and there is no way it was that!


----------



## N2Gaming

what is it that you need the little cantalever lock down clip to hold it to the socket?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


what is it that you need the little cantalever lock down clip to hold it to the socket?


this one has the old 478 clip on it. there is no where for the cantelever clip.
*move this conversation to the other thread. I don't wanna get in trouble for off topic chatting!!!!








:saint:


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *simfreak47* 
Got a new mobo! It's in my sig. Why doesn't she overclock as good as everyone else has had them









Possibly your processor, but patience definitely helps







.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 







LOL though it was 70! Well guess I'm gonna blow this thing up!!!
















I never could hold onto anything good!









HEY guys what should the offset be in CORETEMP? It's reporting 44/47c for temps and I kinda believe HWinfo32 reporting 67c

I have about an 8*C offset







.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
Possibly your processor, but patience definitely helps







.

I have about an







.









+


----------



## simfreak47

My RAM is effed up because I can't get it to load windows with just my 1GB stick. I think it has something to do with the timings or something?


----------



## Blitz6804

If I had to guess, I would fathom that it does not want to boot Windows with solely the 1 GB stick because of the RAM divider, if I assume you have it on Auto. When you have "Auto" set, it would read the SPDs of the RAM. In this case, it would be reading the 256 MB stick which is DDR 333, and decreasing the divider accordingly. When you remove that, it reads the DDR 400 spec of the 1 GB causing it to run the memory at DDR 470, which is way too high for the RAM if you are running it at 3-3-3-8 @ 2.5 V. Try removing the smaller DIMM and explicitly setting the RAM divider to DDR 333.

Also, please notice, you are running a Manchester core. On average, these do not clock as well as their Toledo / Denmark brethren. If it could get up to 2.4 GHz, that is a decent Manchester. 2.5 GHz is very nice, 2.6 GHz is great, and I have to say I have only once seen one up around 2.7 GHz. Compared to their counterparts in the 1024 KB cache arena, Manchesters tend to need more voltage per clock; keep that in mind too. (Pez needs 1.400 V to do 2.50 GHz if I remember right, whereas my Toledo could do 2.50 GHz on stock voltage, and Pioneerisloud's Denmark can do the same while being undervolted.)


----------



## N2Gaming

simfreak47 do you know the make and model # of your ram it would help determine the best timings and voltages. It looks like your using another 256 mixed with the 1 gig is that just to get it running?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


simfreak47 do you know the make and model # of your ram it would help determine the best timings and voltages. It looks like your using another 256 mixed with the 1 gig is that just to get it running?


N2Gaming, thanks for pointing that out. I did some googling and found out his 1GB stick of memory is from Elixir. I'm unsure what IC's are on the memory. Below is a link to the spec sheet of the memory:

http://www.elixir-memory.com/product...%202June06.pdf (Page 2, first part number under Green products)

It looks like the this stick runs at JEDEC standards (3-3-3-8). VDimm is stock at 2.6volts.

Good luck


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


If I had to guess, I would fathom that it does not want to boot Windows with solely the 1 GB stick because of the RAM divider, if I assume you have it on Auto. When you have "Auto" set, it would read the SPDs of the RAM. In this case, it would be reading the 256 MB stick which is DDR 333, and decreasing the divider accordingly. When you remove that, it reads the DDR 400 spec of the 1 GB causing it to run the memory at DDR 470, which is way too high for the RAM if you are running it at 3-3-3-8 @ 2.5 V. Try removing the smaller DIMM and explicitly setting the RAM divider to DDR 333.

Also, please notice, you are running a Manchester core. On average, these do not clock as well as their Toledo / Denmark brethren. If it could get up to 2.4 GHz, that is a decent Manchester. 2.5 GHz is very nice, 2.6 GHz is great, and I have to say I have only once seen one up around 2.7 GHz. Compared to their counterparts in the 1024 KB cache arena, Manchesters tend to need more voltage per clock; keep that in mind too. (Pez needs 1.400 V to do 2.50 GHz if I remember right, whereas my Toledo could do 2.50 GHz on stock voltage, and Pioneerisloud's Denmark can do the same while being undervolted.)


I never thought of that.. (about it running at DDR470,







)

This is a okay chip, I will say that, but this is probably why It's not overclocking as well as most CPU's do on this mobo?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


simfreak47 do you know the make and model # of your ram it would help determine the best timings and voltages. It looks like your using another 256 mixed with the 1 gig is that just to get it running?


All I know is the 1GB stick is a Nanya stick, and the 256MB stick is a ProMOS. (Well, now it is, and it is also a 400MHz stick)










Edit once more - I am getting a 2GB kit of Corsair XMS RAM. Should help out, at least its name brand


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


When you have "Auto" set, it would read the SPDs of the RAM. In this case, it would be reading the 256 MB stick which is DDR 333, and decreasing the divider accordingly. When you remove that, it reads the DDR 400 spec of the 1 GB causing it to run the memory at DDR 470


Blitz, if his dram configuration is set to AUTO then why would it read DDR 470? Shouldn't it read DDR400 (PC3200)? Sorry I'm not following...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *simfreak47*


All I know is the 1GB stick is a Nanya stick


Simfreak47, I have a few of those at work. It's usually a sticker from Nanya covering the actual manufacturer of the memory. Just do a search for the part number listed next to your memory and you'll come up with the real manufacturer.

Good luck


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Simfreak47, I have a few of those at work. It's usually a sticker from Nanya covering the actual manufacturer of the memory. Just do a search for the part number listed next to your memory and you'll come up with the real manufacturer.

Good luck

It's Elixir.

Got it working now. Used the tip on setting it manually (stock now)


----------



## Blitz6804

Thlnk3r: "Auto" for the 1 GB stick is to use the DDR 400 divider. DDR 400 divider with a 235 MHz reference clock works out to DDR 470. The DDR 333 divider yields DDR 392 with the same reference clock.

simfreak47: Do not forget to increase the RAM voltage to 2.60 V if need be for the 1 GB DIMM. As Thlnk3r said, it is supposed to receive 2.60 V for DDR 400 @ 3-3-3-8.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *simfreak47* 
It's Elixir.

Got it working now. Used the tip on setting it manually (stock now)










Simfreak47, looks good









Try bumping your HTT (reference clock) a tad and see if you're able to go further with the overclock. The DFI SL-DR Expert can handle the HTT speeds so don't worry about changing the chipset voltage.

Let us know

Good luck


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Thlnk3r: "Auto" for the 1 GB stick is to use the DDR 400 divider. DDR 400 divider with a 235 MHz reference clock works out to DDR 470. The DDR 333 divider yields DDR 392 with the same reference clock.

simfreak47: Do not forget to increase the RAM voltage to 2.60 V if need be for the 1 GB DIMM. As Thlnk3r said, it is supposed to receive 2.60 V for DDR 400 @ 3-3-3-8.

iirc, it auto defaults to 2.66v


----------



## simfreak47

For Overclocking, I will set my RAM to 200MHz (100MHZ DDR), and my HTT to 800MHz (just to be sure)

And will up the FSB in 10MHz increments. This might take a while

sry for double post.


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz, sorry I totally forgot he was 35Mhz OC'ed









Quote:


Originally Posted by *simfreak47* 
For Overclocking, I will set my RAM to 200MHz (100MHZ DDR), and my HTT to 800MHz (just to be sure)

And will up the FSB in 10MHz increments. This might take a while

sry for double post.

Simfreak47, you might want to run the memory frequency a little lower then that. If the frequency becomes to high then you'll most likely run into stability issues. It would be a better idea if you ran a lower memory divider, that way it rules out any memory issues. In any case I'd suggest tweaking the memory later on. CPU speed is king!

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Thlnk3r, I think you misread. He is about to attempt the DDR 200 divider. That is, the RAM will run at half the reference clock. I do not know anything lower, even on a DFI.

simfreak47, 10 MHz increments should be fine. Decrease by 1 MHz increments when instability is reached until stability is restored. This would be your max CPU speed. Decrease the multiplier to 9x and keep increasing if you are curious about your maximum HTT.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Thlnk3r, I think you misread. He is about to attempt the DDR 200 divider. That is, the RAM will run at half the reference clock. I do not know anything lower, even on a DFI.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *simfreak47* 
I will set my RAM to *200MHz*

Blitz, "200Mhz" doesn't sound like a "DDR 200 divider". I'm assuming when he said "set" that meant running the frequency hence the "mhz"









These DFI boards I think allow down to a divider of 133. I believe that is what is listed in my SLI-DR DRAM Configuration.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

I read all the post's and my guess is thinker is at work and trying to help but is getting caught with more work between post's and not able to keep up with all the post's before he post's. I'm not saying anything bad about thinker I just think he may be bussy and by the time he get's around to posting the toppic has moved a couple of more post's.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I read all the post's and my guess is thinker is at work and trying to help but is getting caught between post's and not able to keep up with all the post's before he post's. I'm not saying anything bad about thinker I just think he may be bussy and by the time he get's around to posting the toppic has moved a couple of more post's.

N2Gaming, that's correct. I'm always at work when posting. The reason I haven't been on that much is because my Raptor drive at home took a dump so I was without a machine for a few weeks so any posting at home was a no go. I also sold my Opteron 170 for some Cisco equipment so I was also dead in the water with that haha.

Thanks for recognizing though


----------



## Blitz6804

Wait.... wait... You sold your golden Opty 170!? The one Joe wanted to knock you over for?! I guess that explains why you had the Gigabyte out, you were downgrading back over to AGP.

And yes, I realize Thlnk3r is at work (I quite often post while in class) but the parenthetical phrase did specify what he meant by "200 MHz (100 MHz DDR)."

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Wait.... wait... You sold your golden Opty 170!? The one Joe wanted to knock you over for?! I guess that explains why you had the Gigabyte out, you were downgrading back over to AGP.

And yes, I realize Thlnk3r is at work (I quite often post while in class) but the parenthetical phrase did specify what he meant by "200 MHz (100 MHz DDR)."

Good luck


I've heard rumors that thlnk3r's Golden Chip is going swimming...

Alas, with thlnk3r's chip no longer in his possession, I no longer have any reasonable justification to commit grave bodily harm on his person.

It's also great to know that Blitz keeps tabs of where everyone is during the day.









"Holy omniscience, Batman! It's like he's got eyes everywhere!"


----------



## Blitz6804

Now, if you actually updated your thread, we would know this! But... just so everyone knows... Joe's thread about his next rig (and first watercooled one) lists an Opteron 170 (much like the one Thlnk3r just released) and a DFI LANParty UT nF4 SLI-DR Expert (much like the one Thlnk3r just released). I guess we will know for certain if Joe suddenly mentions he has a lapped LCBQE 0722 that can do 3Ghz on 1.34 V (that is, the one Thlnk3r did release).


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Now, if you actually updated your thread, we would know this! But... just so everyone knows... Joe's thread about his next rig (and first watercooled one) lists an Opteron 170 (much like the one Thlnk3r just released) and a DFI LANParty UT nF4 SLI-DR Expert (much like the one Thlnk3r just released)


Blitz, I think Joe has been a little busy lately. Also my SLI-DR wasn't an Expert it was just a SLI-DR and I still have the board. Shoot I wish it was an Expert


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, I think Joe has been a little busy lately. Also my SLI-DR wasn't an Expert it was just a SLI-DR and I still have the board. Shoot I wish it was an Expert











I wish they had the expert when I bught my sli dr! I bought like a month or two before the expert came out.


----------



## Blitz6804

So my memory is shoddy... I am 99% sure your CPU was a LCBQE 0722 though.


----------



## simfreak47

Update: I'm not having much luck. It's probably this darn cold. Altering my thinking process. I'm going to get better before I press DEL upon POST again.

=/

PS- Might get 2GB (2x 1GB) Corsair XMS. Or did I already say that a while ago?


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, you have said a few times you are looking into the feasibility of the same. Personally, I think a matched pair of anything will be better than your current setup, even if 2x512 MB DDR 333. (Although, ideally, you can get either 2x1024 MB of low-latency DDR 400 or 2x1024 MB of DDR 500.) The boost you gain between single-channel RAM and dual-channel RAM is MASSIVE on a 939 K8. (It is less apparent on an AM2 K8. It is even less apparent on Intels other than those populating Skt B, which I have no experience with.)


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Yeah, you have said a few times you are looking into the feasibility of the same.


Ahh yes, I tend to ramble on when I am sick (and not really pay attention







)


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I've heard rumors that thlnk3r's Golden Chip is going swimming...

Alas, with thlnk3r's chip no longer in his possession, I no longer have any reasonable justification to commit grave bodily harm on his person.

It's also great to know that Blitz keeps tabs of where everyone is during the day.









"Holy omniscience, Batman! It's like he's got eyes everywhere!"









Yes, it appears Blitz is the neighborhood stalker







. But hey, its a dirty job, somebody's gotta do it







. Just kidding Blitz, you know we love ya buddy.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
So my memory is shoddy... I am 99% sure your CPU was a LCBQE 0722 though.

I thought thinkerbell's chip was an LCB9E, not LCBQE. His chip was the reason I was hoping Froggy's could pull 3.0GHz, because they were the same stepping.

*Update:*
Okay, my "secondary" rig is still having some issues...maybe somebody can help me out? I cannot for the life of me get ANY audio out of it. I've tried onboard on / off in BIOS. Jumpers on / off on the motherboard (front panel). I've tried a Sound card installed with all the above as well. To no avail. If I can figure that all out...I really want to do some testing with this thing.

Also, my new PSU has arrived!!! Antec TruePower Trio 650w. It appears to have some "odd" cabling sleeving done to it, and the stock sleeving appears to have been cut. Oh well....it works







. Beggars can't be choosers







. My 12v rail stays NOW between 11.84-11.78v. That is the MOST it varies now....quite impressive!!!


----------



## Blitz6804

Joe's is an LCB9E. Mine was an LCBIE if it matters.

Pio: Regards stock sleeving: with the exception of the one black sleeve that is on there, there were no sleeves from the factory. The piss-poor sleeving job otherwise is my fault.

Silly question: the speakers are not muted are they? I have done that myself more times than I care to recount here.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


My 12v rail stays NOW between 11.84-11.78v. That is the MOST it varies now....quite impressive!!!






































:applau d:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Silly question: the speakers are not muted are they? I have done that myself more times than I care to recount here.













































:lache n:


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Joe's is an LCB9E. Mine was an LCBIE if it matters.

Pio: Regards stock sleeving: with the exception of the one black sleeve that is on there, there were no sleeves from the factory. The piss-poor sleeving job otherwise is my fault.

Silly question: the speakers are not muted are they? I have done that myself more times than I care to recount here.


Ok, here's the deal:

I've tried onboard on / off in BIOS. I've tried jumpers on / off for front panel audio. The BEST I've gotten is Onboard High Def audio works...but that's via some sort of Digital out...which I can't USE!!!

I've also tried my Live! card with the Daniel K drivers (Vista x64 installed on it). I tried that card with all the above onboard options as well....no luck. With the Live! installed, it says "The Device cannot start".

EDIT:
Motherboard in question is an Asus A8R-MVP.


----------



## Blitz6804

What I am asking is if the speakers are physically on. I literally once spent about two hours banging my head against the wall installing/uninstalling drivers and PCI cards before I realized the physical switch that determines if the speakers are providing sound from the PC versus the Aux was in the wrong position. (The speakers were also not plugged in, but I found that within two minutes of not having sound.)


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


What I am asking is if the speakers are physically on. I literally once spent about two hours banging my head against the wall installing/uninstalling drivers and PCI cards before I realized the physical switch that determines if the speakers are providing sound from the PC versus the Aux was in the wrong position. (The speakers were also not plugged in, but I found that within two minutes of not having sound.)


Yes, speakers are on and plugged in. That's not the problem. I have no audio driver somehow. Onboard will not install, unless its HD Audio...which I can't use. Live! card won't start.


----------



## Blitz6804

Did not the Live! card die a while ago? That was the one that used to be in The Beast no?

There is no Vista Driver for the A8R-MVP (at least, not from Asus), but if you go to the website for the board, there is an XP 64-bit driver. This is the driver you cannot install?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Did not the Live! card die a while ago? That was the one that used to be in The Beast no?

There is no Vista Driver for the A8R-MVP (at least, not from Asus), but if you go to the website for the board, there is an XP 64-bit driver. This is the driver you cannot install?


It doesn't even detect that onboard is even there! That's the problem. It only detects the onboard HD Audio...and that's it.

The Live! to the best of my knowledge is still alive. I'm just not using it because there is NO Windows 7 driver for it.


----------



## Blitz6804

Have you tried XP x86 on the board to be sure the audio module is not dead? Have you connected all necessary power connectors to the board? Is the PSU on that rig sufficient?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Have you tried XP x86 on the board to be sure the audio module is not dead? Have you connected all necessary power connectors to the board? Is the PSU on that rig sufficient?


I haven't tried XP yet, but I suppose I could







. Its going to be running Vista, so I need Vista to work on it.

PSU is DEFINITELY sufficient, as its the same PSU I run my main rig on. All power connections are in fact plugged in.


----------



## Blitz6804

I have been doing some research. Despite it being for an Asus M2N32-SLI Deluxe, I have heard this method can fix what is a seemingly common problem with that motherboard. As can forcing the XP 64-bit driver in device manager as I earlier said.


----------



## BlackOmega

Well I think Ive found part of my problem with low benchmark scores. I ran GPUz and found that for some reason Im at 2x instead of the 16x I should be. And if thats the case then my scores really werent all that bad.

I wonder if I set the jumpers on my board to the SLI position if that will bring the port to the proper 16x









th|nk3r, the lower divider on all 3 of my boards is actually 100. I like the DFI's better than my Asus for finer memory adjustments theres actually quite a few more.


----------



## Blitz6804

Unless I am mistaken, the non-SLI DFI boards run 16x/2x. Old ones can be pencil-modded to 8x/8x. Those that actually have an Ultra-D chipset (and not an SLI that has been gimped) are stuck at 16x/2x. Have you tried the other slot?


----------



## thlnk3r

Pioneer, in regards to your audio issues the first thing that comes to mind is driver compatibility with the 64-bit OS. The live card is old and I'm also assuming the driver set is old as well. Is there a reason for running a 64-bit OS?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Well I think Ive found part of my problem with low benchmark scores. I ran GPUz and found that for some reason Im at 2x instead of the 16x I should be. And if thats the case then my scores really werent all that bad.

I wonder if I set the jumpers on my board to the SLI position if that will bring the port to the proper 16x









th|nk3r, the lower divider on all 3 of my boards is actually 100. I like the DFI's better than my Asus for finer memory adjustments theres actually quite a few more.

BlackOmega, which PCIe slot do you have the card in? The top PCIe slot on my SLI-DR is 16x, the bottom one always runs at 2x in single video card mode. If that is your problem then I apologize for not mentioning that.

Thanks for clarification on the memory.

Good luck guys









EDIT: My Opteron 170 was a LCBQE


----------



## pez

*sigh*...I shall be away from Steam and AIM probably for the next couple days, as I will be w/o my rig (vid card trade). Curious. Anyone w/ a HD 4870...what OC's have you succesfully reached?


----------



## SinX7

AMD 64 x2 4200+ 2.2 Ghz

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=498751


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Pioneer, in regards to your audio issues the first thing that comes to mind is driver compatibility with the 64-bit OS. The live card is old and I'm also assuming the driver set is old as well. Is there a reason for running a 64-bit OS?

BlackOmega, which PCIe slot do you have the card in? The top PCIe slot on my SLI-DR is 16x, the bottom one always runs at 2x in single video card mode. If that is your problem then I apologize for not mentioning that.

Thanks for clarification on the memory.

Good luck guys









EDIT: My Opteron 170 was a LCBQE

The driver for the Live! card works fine on my NF4 board and 64bit Vista...hence the odd issues.

Blitz helped me out getting onboard working. I had to force the XP64 driver to install via Device Manager.

And I'm running 64bit Vista because...why not?


----------



## Blitz6804

As much as we would love to have you SinX7, a Windsor is Socket AM2... you have one too many pins to join.


----------



## SinX7

ohh, srry >__<


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Unless I am mistaken, the non-SLI DFI boards run 16x/2x. Old ones can be pencil-modded to 8x/8x. Those that actually have an Ultra-D chipset (and not an SLI that has been gimped) are stuck at 16x/2x. Have you tried the other slot?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, which PCIe slot do you have the card in? The top PCIe slot on my SLI-DR is 16x, the bottom one always runs at 2x in single video card mode. If that is your problem then I apologize for not mentioning that.

Thanks for clarification on the memory.

Good luck guys









EDIT: My Opteron 170 was a LCBQE


 You know that really kinda sux.







Cuz both of my cards are so damn big that they wont clear the NB heatsink.








I wonder if the chipset fan on the CFX3200 is the same.

So I guess a score of 10500 points isnt that bad on a 2x slot









EDIT: Im using the bottom slot BTW.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I had to force the XP64 driver to install via Device Manager.

And I'm running 64bit Vista because...why not?


Pio, interesting. How did you guys force the driver? Did you simply just search for the driver and "force" the installation to use that specific one?

I was just wondering why you were running 64-bit Vista. I didn't know if there was any advantages over any previous set up you were running.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


You know that really kinda sux.







Cuz both of my cards are so damn big that they wont clear the NB heatsink.








I wonder if the chipset fan on the CFX3200 is the same.

So I guess a score of 10500 points isnt that bad on a 2x slot









EDIT: Im using the bottom slot BTW.


BlackOmega, well that definitely explains why. Don't worry I did the same thing when I first got this board set up. In regards to the CFX3200 fan question I believe they use the same chipset fan. Anything other then the stock chipset cooler/fan probably wouldn't let you fit the card in the top PCIe slot. The Thermalright HR-05-SLI was a pain to configure on my SLI-DR.

Let us know how the performance is if you decide to move the card up to the 16x slot.

Good luck


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pio, interesting. How did you guys force the driver? Did you simply just search for the driver and "force" the installation to use that specific one?

I was just wondering why you were running 64-bit Vista. I didn't know if there was any advantages over any previous set up you were running.


Yeah, I went to device manager and told it to use the driver i wanted it to use. Onboard works fine now







.

I'm just testing right now. Vista 64bit was the easiest thing for me to install.


----------



## Name Change

Sadness. power surge or something pretty much killed my system 2 night ago. Everything but my hd is still working, really gonna miss the chipp and my mobo. Got laid off and can't get myself a new system after all, was gonna sell this one lolz. RIP Mr. manny.









Atleats all my pics and things are alright. wiash my video card had survived


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Name Change*


Sadness. power surge or something pretty much killed my system 2 night ago. Everything but my hd is still working, really gonna miss the chipp and my mobo. Got laid off and can't get myself a new system after all, was gonna sell this one lolz. RIP Mr. manny.









Atleats all my pics and things are alright. wiash my video card had survived


It took your video card too? No fear in that, EVGA has excellent customer service and I wouldn't doubt them letting you RMA it. That does suck though







.


----------



## phantommaggot

this thread grows fast......

thanks for the suggestions. hopefully newegg ships my stuff today and ill get to stick in the new ram.

(the xigmatek thats coming has the exposed heat pipes on the bottom. should i try to lap those?)

farthest ive pushed my chip is 2.7 ghz. it was stable, but the memory was underclocked.

i know that if i lowered the multiplier i could get the memory up.. but i was just playing with the chip that day.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...gotxxx/oc2.jpg

and ill try to fill that pc page out this afternoon.


----------



## Tator Tot

I wouldn't try and lap the Xigmatek as they are all very flat to begin with.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *phantommaggot*


this thread grows fast......

thanks for the suggestions. hopefully newegg ships my stuff today and ill get to stick in the new ram.

(the xigmatek thats coming has the exposed heat pipes on the bottom. should i try to lap those?)

farthest ive pushed my chip is 2.7 ghz. it was stable, but the memory was underclocked.

i know that if i lowered the multiplier i could get the memory up.. but i was just playing with the chip that day.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...gotxxx/oc2.jpg

and ill try to fill that pc page out this afternoon.


Nope, I personally run the Xigmatek S1283, and it runs GREAT right out of the box. Granted I am using an aftermarket fan and some Shin Etsu...but other than that, she's all stock







.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah phantommaggot, it does move fast. With the HDT technology, I would advise against lapping the cooler. The risk of damaging the heatpipes is too great. On the other hand, there is a special way you should apply the TIM to prevent there not being enough. Benchmark Reviews has discovered the best way to put on TIM is to put a narrow band along the interfaces between the heatpipes. That is, rather than putting a single ball in the middle, you put a thin strip on each metal segment between heatpipes. They also found it was a good idea to fill the gaps between the pipes and slats with TIM prior to doing this. A silver-based compound is the way to go; silicon will work, but avoid generic "white TIM" for fear of causing the copper to oxidize killing its heat transfer ability. I will update your speed on the roster when I get home.


----------



## TestECull

My 3800+ has finally died. It will no longer boot Windows.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Pio, interesting. How did you guys force the driver? Did you simply just search for the driver and "force" the installation to use that specific one?

If you ever need to force a driver or install one that a package says won't install, all you have to do is get the *.inf file from it and put it in the inf folder in windows directory. Then when you install the driver it will ask you for the other files that are need. I.E. usually *.dll's you can get these from the package. Also you can skip all the *.hlp files.

I do this alot when driver packages try to install multiple garbage apps.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


My 3800+ has finally died. It will no longer boot Windows.












Are you getting a new CPU for your cousin?


----------



## nategr8ns

@ Test

Speaking of drivers, does anybody have any experience with installing firmware on an older Creative Zen Sleek? The firmware program won't recognize my MP3 player on two computers I've tried, and I accidentally wiped the firmware off, so I'm stuck without music on the go







.


----------



## phantommaggot

thanks guys
so i wont lap the cooler.
this is the one i ordered, its only set up for a 92mm but im trying to budget a lil bit
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835233014
got a tube of arctic silver to go with it...








now i just gotta find a chip for this thing to ride on


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
My 3800+ has finally died. It will no longer boot Windows.

TestECull, did you test a different processor to make sure the motherboard wasn't at fault? Are you getting a POST screen? Does the issue above also occur at stock speeds?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
Speaking of drivers, does anybody have any experience with installing firmware on an older Creative Zen Sleek? The firmware program won't recognize my MP3 player on two computers I've tried, and I accidentally wiped the firmware off, so I'm stuck without music on the go.

Nate, does the OS detect the Creative Zen after it has been plugged in?

Good luck


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *phantommaggot* 
thanks guys
so i wont lap the cooler.
this is the one i ordered, its only set up for a 92mm but im trying to budget a lil bit
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835233014
got a tube of arctic silver to go with it...








now i just gotta find a chip for this thing to ride on

The HDT-SD963 gets better temps.


----------



## phantommaggot

lol, too late.....


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Please welcome our newest member, simfreak47.









My apologies to simfreak; been way too busy lately to be attentive enough to the Club.









Good to know everyone's doing their usual awesome job, though.


----------



## Blitz6804

Part of this is my fault for screwwing up the off-site roster, but just so you know Joe, Simfreak47 joined over a month ago. Our newest member is actually phantommaggot. (His first post was to join us... smart man!)


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*











Are you getting a new CPU for your cousin?



Yup. I was gonna get him a 3800+ X2, but the dummy spent 75 bucks on a pair of shoes and 40 bucks at walmart, out of 140, so he's going to stay single core for a while. :\\

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


TestECull, did you test a different processor to make sure the motherboard wasn't at fault? Are you getting a POST screen? Does the issue above also occur at stock speeds?

Nate, does the OS detect the Creative Zen after it has been plugged in?

Good luck











POSTs fine, gets into loading windows, then bluescreens. Something about an unrecoverable hardware error. This same install of windows boots my mom's C2D rig just fine. I also tried the one ram stick trick, no dice. :\\

Also, no overclocking. It's in an HP mobo. When I had it, it was unstable at anything over stock, but at stock it ran ok. I let it get too hot at 1.65Vcore, prolly why.

The only other 939 chip I have is my dual core, but because of it's broken pin, it's a bear to get it to POST. The pin that came off is for the IMC, and I don't have my soldering iron anymore, so I can't render a permafix...


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


Yup. I was gonna get him a 3800+ X2, but the dummy spent 75 bucks on a pair of shoes and 40 bucks at walmart, out of 140, so he's going to stay single core for a while. :

POSTs fine, gets into loading windows, then bluescreens. Something about an unrecoverable hardware error. This same install of windows boots my mom's C2D rig just fine. I also tried the one ram stick trick, no dice. :

Also, no overclocking. It's in an HP mobo. When I had it, it was unstable at anything over stock, but at stock it ran ok. I let it get too hot at 1.65Vcore, prolly why.

The only other 939 chip I have is my dual core, but because of it's broken pin, it's a bear to get it to POST. The pin that came off is for the IMC, and I don't have my soldering iron anymore, so I can't render a permafix...


Even though the OS install works on a different CPU/PC, try a clean install, it could just be something...but since you can get it to w/ the C2D, try a registry cleaning and uninstall the AMD Drivers. Then try again







.


----------



## simfreak47

Well, I got bored. [not that stable, just wanted to boot and do super pi]

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=505615


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


Also, no overclocking. It's in an HP mobo. When I had it, it was unstable at anything over stock, but at stock it ran ok. I let it get too hot at 1.65Vcore, prolly why.


TestECull, that is interesting. Why was the processor running at 1.65 volts? How long was it running at this voltage?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *simfreak47*


Well, I got bored. [not that stable, just wanted to boot and do super pi]


Simfreak47, good job buddy. Keep it up









You should be able to get some more out of that Manchester. Remember to lower the memory divider, this will keep the frequency below stock and give you some more OC'ing room with your processor.

Good luck


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


TestECull, that is interesting. Why was the processor running at 1.65 volts? How long was it running at this voltage?



Because it was in my ePox and running 2.76GHz at the time









Ran about two weeks, and just fine till I took it up to his house. They don't set their AC low enough for me to be comfy, let alone a demonic 1.65V fireball, so it migrated within an hour. :\\

pez: It runs flawlessly on the C2D rig. I checked and rummaged around in it, found nothing abnormal. A quick burst if Intel Burn Test, some Prime, and some Gmod server rape proved the OS perfectly stable. It should run just fine. Vista is a pretty resilient OS, I've had it survive much worse hardware failure that should have completely destroyed it.


----------



## BlackOmega

Sorry to hear that Testecull. You know you can probably pick up a 3500+ NEW for around $30. Might not hurt to get one of those for the time being.


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Simfreak47, good job buddy. Keep it up









You should be able to get some more out of that Manchester. Remember to lower the memory divider, this will keep the frequency below stock and give you some more OC'ing room with your processor.

Good luck


Thank you. Although I said I won't overclock 'till I get over this cold, I just had uncontrollable urges to overclock!!

I set the RAM to 166MHz in the BIOS, and figured that if I OC the FSB a bit, it would take my RAM back to ~stock speeds. My SuperPI is very disappointing though, or does it have more to do with my RAM or something?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *simfreak47*


Thank you. Although I said I won't overclock 'till I get over this cold, I just had uncontrollable urges to overclock!!

I set the RAM to 166MHz in the BIOS, and figured that if I OC the FSB a bit, it would take my RAM back to ~stock speeds. My SuperPI is very disappointing though, or does it have more to do with my RAM or something?


It's more or less that you're at such a low frequency, and running AMD. My Opteron @ 3.0GHz pulls a 30s flat on Super Pi.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
Because it was in my ePox and running 2.76GHz at the time









Ran about two weeks, and just fine till I took it up to his house. They don't set their AC low enough for me to be comfy, let alone a demonic 1.65V fireball, so it migrated within an hour. :

pez: It runs flawlessly on the C2D rig. I checked and rummaged around in it, found nothing abnormal. A quick burst if Intel Burn Test, some Prime, and some Gmod server rape proved the OS perfectly stable. It should run just fine. Vista is a pretty resilient OS, I've had it survive much worse hardware failure that should have completely destroyed it.

That sucks, but good luck with whatever you figure outto do with it :/.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
That sucks, but good luck with whatever you figure outto do with it :/.

I thought your rig was down mister....what happened to that


----------



## Blitz6804

His rig is down. He is using the *shiver* family computer. Granted, it is an AMD, but if I remember right, he said it was an Athlon64 ClawHammer Skt754. And apparently, bogged down with superfluous programs.

simfreak47 / pioneerisloud: SuperPi is in fact intimately related to CPU speed an little else. As Pio recalls, I ran my CPU (Skt AM2) at the same 3.0 GHz as Pio. Despite my RAM outbandwidthing him significantly and his CPU outbandwidthing mine slightly (on L2 cache solely; L1 cache was substantially similar) we both clocked in at 30s. We see, at least with SuperPi, 939 does not hold you back at all.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I thought your rig was down mister....what happened to that











Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


His rig is down. He is using the *shiver* family computer. Granted, it is an AMD, but if I remember right, he said it was an Athlon64 ClawHammer Skt754. And apparently, bogged down with superfluous programs.

simfreak47 / pioneerisloud: SuperPi is in fact intimately related to CPU speed an little else. As Pio recalls, I ran my CPU (Skt AM2) at the same 3.0 GHz as Pio. Despite my RAM outbandwidthing him significantly and his CPU outbandwidthing mine slightly (on L2 cache solely; L1 cache was substantially similar) we both clocked in at 30s. We see, at least with SuperPi, 939 does not hold you back at all.


Damnit blitz...give me a changce to answer...but yes, I'm on the "main computer" in the household. Terrible keyboard, trackball mouse, FX 5700 Ultra. It's full of fail. Not to mention it's louder than my computer has ever been. I've been getting really interested in WC'ing lately...hmmm. I shall save that for AM3. This HD 4870 trade was the deciding factor of which side I was choosing for my next rig. Since I'll have one powerful card now, and not to mention ATI, I'll be going AM3, and from my understanding, the Crossfire is going to be outstanding on those boards, so I'll be looking forward to maybe some crossfire, or one of the X2 cards will be more likely. *is uber excited*. I should be getting my card tommorow, so I shall shed some light on my experiences from 2x9800GT to HD 4870 512MB. I've seen the GPU-z SS's, it's got a bandwidth of 115gb/s or something like that? That's ridiculous lol.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes, that bandwidth is correct. However, as Joe always says, "you and your darned numbers!" {Edited for content.} Depending on the program, you would expect nVidia to perform better despite having lesser numbers.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Depending on the program, you would expect nVidia to perform better despite having lesser numbers.

Blitz, are you saying this is because the application is in "favor" of nVidia? I think it's poor driver support that is still lacking for ATI. This has always been the case since day one.


----------



## Blitz6804

It is a little of both. As much as I love ATi hardware, ATi software has always been terrible. (I have been using ATi since my Radeon 9700; I have always had Catalyst installed of some flavor since it was released.) nVidia software has, in my experience, been a much more streamlined and optimized bag of tricks. (I work tech support on some nVidia-based computers.) Driver optimization is a big thing; nVidia always seems to do more with "less" according to the numbers. It might be drivers, it might be the difference between unified processors versus having separate processors / shaders. And, due to marketshare, most programs do in fact favor nVidia. The biggest exceptions are Bioshock (minor favor to ATi), Black and White 2 (minor favor to ATi), and Enemy Territory: Quake Wars (massive favor to ATi).


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


The biggest exceptions are Bioshock (minor favor to ATi), Black and White 2 (minor favor to ATi), and Enemy Territory: Quake Wars (massive favor to ATi).


Blitz, numbers may indicate a favorable advantage over a nVidia but this could also mean the developers wrote the game specifically around the video card.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, numbers may indicate a favorable advantage over a nVidia but this could also mean the developers wrote the game specifically around the video card.


I'm thinking this is the reason for game and video card bundles with Nvidia GPU's.


----------



## pez

I never had problem with ATI drivers when I had my X800XL, so maybe it's user error?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

A personal opinion about benchmarking: The numbers (results) you get are really only as trustworthy as the benchmark itself. This is yet another reason why I hold as a personal mantra that it's utterly useless to benchmark anything except against its own self. Especially with something like a personal computer, there are just too many variables (hardware combinations, as well as the undeniable effects of the software installed on a system) which definitely skew the benchmark results that the whole exercise of benchmarking is rendered completely useless (again, this is just me speaking for myself).

I personally have never understood the whole fascination with statistics (of any kind). To me these are just numbers. If you completely ignore the context of such things (the hows and the whys and other seemingly mundane considerations), you don't really get what these numbers really mean. It's like quoting a stat (say, the 49ers have never ever thrown a single interception during the Super Bowl) without bothering to analyze what that really means (i.e., 49ers quarterbacks were extremely well-coached and executed the game plans to near-perfection and never made mistakes in reading the defense's coverages). Statistics without analysis = just plain ol' boring meaningless numbers.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


A personal opinion about benchmarking: The numbers (results) you get are really only as trustworthy as the benchmark itself. This is yet another reason why I hold as a personal mantra that it's utterly useless to benchmark anything except against its own self. Especially with something like a personal computer, there are just too many variables (hardware combinations, as well as the undeniable effects of the software installed on a system) which definitely skew the benchmark results that the whole exercise of benchmarking is rendered completely useless (again, this is just me speaking for myself).

I personally have never understood the whole fascination with statistics (of any kind). To me these are just numbers. If you completely ignore the context of such things (the hows and the whys and other seemingly mundane considerations), you don't really get what these numbers really mean. It's like quoting a stat (say, the 49ers have never ever thrown a single interception during the Super Bowl) without bothering to analyze what that really means (i.e., 49ers quarterbacks were extremely well-coached and executed the game plans to near-perfection and never made mistakes in reading the defense's coverages). Statistics without analysis = just plain ol' boring meaningless numbers.


This. 100% Agreed


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


so maybe it's user error?


Pez, I work in an environment where that is very common so I would not be surprised.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


there are just too many variables (hardware combinations, as well as the undeniable effects of the software installed on a system) which definitely skew the benchmark results that the whole exercise of benchmarking is rendered completely useless


Joe, I'm in agreement with this as well. There are so many different factors that come in to play. Benchmarking is nice for competition but it shouldn't determine what meal I should eat for lunch


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


A personal opinion about benchmarking: The numbers (results) you get are really only as trustworthy as the benchmark itself. This is yet another reason why I hold as a personal mantra that it's utterly useless to benchmark anything except against its own self. Especially with something like a personal computer, there are just too many variables (hardware combinations, as well as the undeniable effects of the software installed on a system) which definitely skew the benchmark results that the whole exercise of benchmarking is rendered completely useless (again, this is just me speaking for myself).

I personally have never understood the whole fascination with statistics (of any kind). To me these are just numbers. If you completely ignore the context of such things (the hows and the whys and other seemingly mundane considerations), you don't really get what these numbers really mean. It's like quoting a stat (say, the 49ers have never ever thrown a single interception during the Super Bowl) without bothering to analyze what that really means (i.e., 49ers quarterbacks were extremely well-coached and executed the game plans to near-perfection and never made mistakes in reading the defense's coverages). Statistics without analysis = just plain ol' boring meaningless numbers.


I pretty much take benchmarking with a grain of salt.

However, I like Super Pi. Friendly competition for people who can calculate 1m digits of Pi









But benchmarks are pointless (Unless it's a game benchmark, such as Crysis, or FarCry2), but it really matters in REAL LIFE Applications such as gaming, office, etc etc.


----------



## Blitz6804

Not a very fair or indicative benchmark in my opinion though... my laptop beats my desktop without even trying despite it underperforming in almost everything that matters. (Boot time; mutli-tasking; gaming; et cetera.)


----------



## BlackOmega

I agree with benchamarking against itself for purposes of noting performance increase as dictated by a modification. Sometimes I like to compare different hardware like video cards for performance, and getting a number is just a reference point, as long as all of the other hardware and settings stay the same.


----------



## Pest

Out of curiosity, is anyone making the jump to AM3 now that the cpus are out?


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pez, I work in an environment where that is very common so I would not be surprised.

Joe, I'm in agreement with this as well. There are so many different factors that come in to play. Benchmarking is nice for competition but it shouldn't determine what meal I should eat for lunch










Yeah, last semester, I worked for Campbell's Soup as an IT Services Intern. The best part is always hearing people trying to talk like they know a lot about computers. It was great...always gave me a little chuckle.


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pest*


Out of curiosity, is anyone making the jump to AM3 now that the cpus are out?


I know I'm not. I'm going to stick with 939 for a while


----------



## Blitz6804

The AM3 platform is not yet out. However, Phenom IIs have been released in the AM2+ package. (Xyro TR1 is presently rocking said Phenom II.) AM3 will be coming out supposedly within this quarter. AM3 is supposed to have 938 pins. AM3 CPUs can fit into an AM2+ board, but AM2+ CPUs cannot go into an AM3 board. It is supposed that all AM3 boards will be keyed for DDR3, but this is not yet known as a fact. AM3 CPUs can be used with DDR2 memory (in an AM2+ motherboard) or DDR3 memory (in an AM3 motherboard.)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pest*


Out of curiosity, is anyone making the jump to AM3 now that the cpus are out?


I don't need to yet, so I won't be.









That, and the fact that everything is at their most expensive right when they come out.









(Or, in the case of S939 parts, when there's lots of demand and very little supply. But that's another matter altogether.







)


----------



## Blitz6804

The price of 939 parts now, even new, are still cheaper than they were at launch. My San Diego was in excess of $300 as we have repeatedly rehashed here. And we know early adapters pay a silly premium. Right Joe? (Regards your HD 4870 on launch day from Fry's.)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


It is supposed that all AM3 boards will be keyed for DDR3, but this is not yet known as a fact. AM3 CPUs can be used with DDR2 memory (in an AM2+ motherboard) or DDR3 memory (in an AM3 motherboard.)


Blitz, I think there's going to be an AM3 board that supports both DDR2 and DDR3 memory. I can't remember if it was from ASRock or from ECS. It was discussed in the Hardware news section a few months ago.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I would suppose it is ASRock. They have a penchant for making boards that support both modern and legacy technology. (AGP / PCI-E comes to mind.) Like with Core i7 though, the chip can use DDR2 or DDR3, but not both at the same time.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


The price of 939 parts now, even new, are still cheaper than they were at launch. My San Diego was in excess of $300 as we have repeatedly rehashed here. And we know early adapters pay a silly premium. *Right Joe? (Regards your HD 4870 on launch day from Fry's.)*


"Holy fabricated evidence, Batman!"

Right issue, wrong facts, Blitz my barrister-in-waiting friend.

I never said (to you or to anyone) that I bought the HD 4870 from Fry's (because that would be simply stupid, as they have a bad markup on all computer parts that are not on sale). In fact, I've never told anyone where I got my HD 4870...


----------



## Blitz6804

It would be reasonable to assume it was from Fry's. You told us you and Thlnk3r were walking through a Fry's and saw them. Not much later, there was one in your sig rig. In any event, you had gotten one when they were full priced instead of waiting a month or two for the second generation ones (id est, non-reference designs) for less money.


----------



## simfreak47

Hmm.....

My last days of owning my old single core 3500+.

I am going to clock the h3ll out of it, and post screenies!









[as soon as windows is done installing on my spare hdd]

****. nvm.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


It would be reasonable to assume it was from Fry's. You told us you and Thlnk3r were walking through a Fry's and saw them. Not much later, there was one in your sig rig. In any event, you had gotten one when they were full priced instead of waiting a month or two for the second generation ones (id est, non-reference designs) for less money.


Ok blitz...now it's starting to get a little creepy.


----------



## Blitz6804

"Through the Force, things you will see. Other places. The future...the past...old friends long gone."


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Your vision through the Force is clouded, Blitz.

I can categorically state that thlnk3r and I have never been to a Fry's Electronics store together, at the same time, ever.

Perhaps the power of the Dark Side, of which I am the embodiment, has clouded your perceptions of reality...


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pest*


Out of curiosity, is anyone making the jump to AM3 now that the cpus are out?


 I seriously thinking of putting together a PII940 on a cheap AM2+ board with some DDR2. 
There are a few AM3 boards out but theyre all micros







. All that would cost only $350ish+ shipping. Not bad at all if you ask me.

I figure I have 3 decent boards and 2 decent CPU's. 1 kinda crappy single core but its actually not that bad when running it @ 2.6/2.7. Im debating wether or not to wait and get an AM3 board









On another note, I was planning on swapping my chipset cooler off of my CFX board to the NF4 board, but Im not sure how you exactly remove the old one. do you just push it through? Is there a tab or something to release it? Anyone with some experience in this, if you could shed some light on the subject for me I'd greatly appreciate it.


----------



## simfreak47

Check it !!!!

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=506280
http://img.techpowerup.org/090212/Capture016.jpg

Thats about it, I guess


----------



## BlackOmega

Nice sim







Is she staying cool for you?


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Nice sim







Is she staying cool for you?


ehhh

:S

the built in fan control for this DFI sucks. the CPU fan doesn't even kick in at 60C, so I had to rig it to run 100%. Before, it was at 55-65C, but now it's between 35 - 55C

I'm happy


----------



## phantommaggot

well my new ram came in, im pleased with it...
2 gb ocz running at 2.5-3-2-5 210mhz

also got my xigmatek, and new 110cfm front fan

fan is installed. thing is like a jet compared to the 54 cfm fan i had.
figure ill wait on a chip to put the xigmatek in

i decided that im gonna go ahead and get an asus a8n32-sli deluxe and just build another 939 system with what ive got, i mean... ive already got a chip, cooler, memory, yada yada... make it dedicated linux box, use it for media and downloads with the overclocked 3500+ and then survive until am3 comes out amd soothes out on 2 939 systems









that all being said...
my motherboard started dong something strange last night...
i set my HT multiplier to x4, and it runs at x3..... i set it to x5 and it runs at x4....

so to get my normal clock speed.. im running 250x5 to get 1000MHz HT
what would cause that? every now and then it bumps back up on a restart... which overclocks the hell outta the HT.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *simfreak47* 
ehhh

:S

the built in fan control for this DFI sucks. the CPU fan doesn't even kick in at 60C, so I had to rig it to run 100%. Before, it was at 55-65C, but now it's between 35 - 55C

I'm happy










Did you go through the BIOS and set everything with the fan speeds? On my DFI NF4ultra I can set when my fans do what. And Ive tested it, it seems to work pretty well. I just have mine set to turn to 100% @ 35*C. I do believe it is linked to smart guardian somehow. So thats not actual coretemp but IHS temp.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *phantommaggot* 
well my new ram came in, im pleased with it...
2 gb ocz running at 2.5-3-2-5 210mhz

also got my xigmatek, and new 110cfm front fan

fan is installed. thing is like a jet compared to the 54 cfm fan i had.
figure ill wait on a chip to put the xigmatek in

i decided that im gonna go ahead and get an asus a8n32-sli deluxe and just build another 939 system with what ive got, i mean... ive already got a chip, cooler, memory, yada yada... make it dedicated linux box, use it for media and downloads with the overclocked 3500+ and then survive until am3 comes out amd soothes out on 2 939 systems









that all being said...
my motherboard started dong something strange last night...
i set my HT multiplier to x4, and it runs at x3..... i set it to x5 and it runs at x4....

so to get my normal clock speed.. im running 250x5 to get 1000MHz HT
what would cause that? every now and then it bumps back up on a restart... which overclocks the hell outta the HT.

Well that is very odd.







Have you tried reflashing the BIOS to a newer version? When you do that download the latest update tool from Asus, I think its called Asus update.

At any rate if your interested in a A8N32SLI deluxe, PM me, I've been thinking of clearing out some of my 939 stuff.


----------



## phantommaggot

Im on rev 1016
i think there is one newer. ill give it a try.. i always have done my bios updates the old 3.5 way ... lol

and ill shoot you a PM asap

decided to run super pi...
im happy with it.. id like to get a little faster tho.. maybe sunday night.. m weekend is full

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...gotxxx/SP1.jpg

EDIT**
what A64 has to say about my system
maybe i could get a tip or 2 to speed this thing up a little more........
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...txxx/a64-1.jpg


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *simfreak47*


the built in fan control for this DFI sucks. the CPU fan doesn't even kick in at 60C, so I had to rig it to run 100%. Before, it was at 55-65C, but now it's between 35 - 55C


Simfreak47, the fan set up is a bit confusing when you first view it in the BIOS so don't feel bad. Make sure you set the "fan fully on" setting to 60C(or whatever designated temperature that you want the fan to come on at). I wish I could remember the exact naming of the option but it was similar to that. Now that I think of it I don't recall a CPU fan control being in there. I do however remember the chipset fan and the system fan speed controls being available.

Good job on the overclock. How much voltage are you running? In terms of voltage, is the CPU-Z screen shot accurate with what is displayed? Have you started stability testing?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *phantommaggot*


my motherboard started dong something strange last night... 
i set my HT multiplier to x4, and it runs at x3..... i set it to x5 and it runs at x4


Phantommaggot, dumb question here but did you make sure to disable Cool'n'Quiet? How about any other thermal throttling options?

Good luck guys


----------



## BlackOmega

Hey fellas check this out I found an opty175 +mobo on ebay, its still pretty cheap. $51 last time I checked.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hey fellas check this out I found an opty175 +mobo on ebay, its still pretty cheap. $51 last time I checked.


great find here is a real treasur. too bad the price is already thur the roof. watch that opty 175 do the same


----------



## nategr8ns

ever since I got my DFI and couldn't get it to work, I've been wary about using ebay







.

If any of you guys have any ideas on how to fix it, LMK... I've tried everything though.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
ever since I got my DFI and couldn't get it to work, I've been wary about using ebay







.

If any of you guys have any ideas on how to fix it, LMK... I've tried everything though.

It is very possible you bought a dead board. How much did you pay if you don't mind me asking? Sorry for asking but what are the problems again?

N2G


----------



## pez

My HD 4870 is due to arrive today!!!! Excited is I!


----------



## N2Gaming

Good luck, these shipping things sometimes don't always go as planned. Hopefully you get it and are pleased with the results.

N2G


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


It is very possible you bought a dead board. How much did you pay if you don't mind me asking? Sorry for asking but what are the problems again?

N2G


I payed around $60 which was around the average price at the time. It powers on but it doesn't do anything that I can tell it always has a single Debug light on.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Good luck, these shipping things sometimes don't always go as planned. Hopefully you get it and are pleased with the results.

N2G


Well it shows "Arrival at unit". It always does that in the morning. They'll update it in the morning I guess before they start their route, then the mail gets to our house around 2 or 3 in the afternoon. Sadly, I don't get home until about 430 or 5







. But at least I won't have to deal with that single core computer anymore. Makes me appreciate dual core.


----------



## Blitz6804

An Opteron 185 might be a fuzz overkill N2Gaming. A 231 MHz gives you a 3.0 GHz CPU, so it is good for anyone who lacks a motherboard capable of a high HTT. In my opinion, the "sweet spot" would likely be a 12x multiplier. Then you can do 12x250 and get a 3.0 GHz CPU while still running DDR 500 1:1. If you can get a little more out of it (255?) more power to you.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
I payed around $60 which was around the average price at the time. It powers on but it doesn't do anything that I can tell it always has a single Debug light on.

Nate, sorry to hear you are having problems. The only time I experienced the single debug light was with my Seasonic S12 500W PSU. It would power on the board but that was about it. That was quickly solved by replacing it with a VX550 from Corsair (CWT). Have you tried a different PSU yet? Did you try starting the board out of the case? Perhaps a grounding issue is at fault. Try only running the essentials (processor, one stick of memory, video and psu).

Check out this link. There might be a few things on here that might be helpful: http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=325031.

Let us know

Good luck


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Hey fellas check this out I found an opty175 +mobo on ebay, its still pretty cheap. $51 last time I checked.











Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
My HD 4870 is due to arrive today!!!! Excited is I!


----------



## sillykid

I had to use my old s939 system the other day while my main rig was down and I noticed I had a opty 185 in it and was able to clock it up to 3.0Ghz (12*250) but it wouldn't go any higher without being prime stable. Any suggestions with a DFI NF4 SLI-DR, 2GB DDR400 OCZ, and currently running it at 1.425V?


----------



## Blitz6804

Looking at your rig, you will likely need to 1) lower your RAM divider, 2) loosen your RAM timings, and/or 3) increase your RAM voltage. 2-3-2-5-1T is rather tight for DDR 450. I am not saying it is impossible, but that might be part of the issue. The best way to test if the RAM is limiting you is to drop it another divider and run Prime again seeing if it works. If it is Prime stable, then the CPU is fine, but the RAM is too tight. If it fails anyway, try a little more vCore. 3.0 GHz is already pretty good for a K8, asking for much more might be unreasonable. (255x12 is almost 3.1 GHz for example.)


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


I payed around $60 which was around the average price at the time. It powers on but it doesn't do anything that I can tell it always has a single Debug light on.


 Nate, the main plug on the PSU, is it a 20 or native 24 pin plug. Ive found some other forums where people were having the same problem and it turned out to be the PSU. They were trying to use a 20-24 pin plug convertor instead of a native 24 pin plug. When they switched to a native 24 pin plug their problems went away. 
So I too would be suspect that its the PSU.
Also, when trying to power it up for the first time use only 1 stick of ram in the orange slot furthest from the CPU. My board didnt want to power up with both of the DIMM's occupied. After it POSTed I shut it back off and popped my other stick in. Now the board works great.

good luck


----------



## pez

My mom has just notified me that my card got there today. I can't wait to get of work....only another hour and 10 minutes lol.


----------



## Blitz6804

Congratz Pez... I hope you like it. (Read: I hope CSS works properly now for the reasons you suggested in AIM.)


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well guys, it wasn't the PSU that was the problem







. My machine is still just randomly locking up on me. No BSOD or anything...it just locks up. I fear it's a CPU issue, so I have a few things to try out here first:

1) Lower RAM back to DDR333, 3-4-4-8-2T (22/24)
2) If Above doesn't work, Lower CPU to 2.8GHz
3) If Above doesn't work, increase voltage.
4) If Above doesn't work, go back to stock







.

Worst case scenario, I have an Abit AT8-32X sitting here with a Venice 3500 that I could use for a while. And if the issue STILL occurs, then I know its the RAM, because that'd be the only common variable.


----------



## simfreak47

[email protected]#$ $#^#$^ #$%@#*)^%^

I de-lidded my Athlon 3500+ last night. I also de-resistered it D:


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *simfreak47* 
[email protected]#$ $#^#$^ #$%@#*)^%^

I de-lidded my Athlon 3500+ last night. I also de-resistered it D:











That's not funny, I know...but the way you said it was humorous to me.


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*











That's not funny, I know...but the way you said it was humorous to me.


Might as well make something funny about a terrible situation.

Oh well. I'll just not de-lid any more CPU's


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *simfreak47*


Might as well make something funny about a terrible situation.

Oh well. I'll just not de-lid any more CPU's


I have a Athlon 64 3800+ that came de-lided.

Shocked the heck out of me at first. 
Then I had to remember this wasn't intel, and the crazy Overclockers in the 939 club do these things.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Nate, sorry to hear you are having problems. The only time I experienced the single debug light was with my Seasonic S12 500W PSU. It would power on the board but that was about it. That was quickly solved by replacing it with a VX550 from Corsair (CWT). Have you tried a different PSU yet? Did you try starting the board out of the case? Perhaps a grounding issue is at fault. Try only running the essentials (processor, one stick of memory, video and psu).

Check out this link. There might be a few things on here that might be helpful: http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=325031.

Let us know

Good luck










Thanks, I've followed that guide numerous times (you or someone else posted it here and in my DFI thread). I'm fairly certain the problem isn't the PSU, I've tried a 430w TT and a 600w Ultra.
The problems aren't new, they are the same ones I posted about a few months ago.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


I have a Athlon 64 3800+ that came de-lided.

Shocked the heck out of me at first. 
Then I had to remember this wasn't intel, and the crazy Overclockers in the 939 club do these things.


Uh oh.

Tator Tot's talking about me here specifically...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Well guys, it wasn't the PSU that was the problem







. My machine is still just randomly locking up on me. No BSOD or anything...it just locks up. I fear it's a CPU issue, so I have a few things to try out here first:

1) Lower RAM back to DDR333, 3-4-4-8-2T (22/24)
2) If Above doesn't work, Lower CPU to 2.8GHz
3) If Above doesn't work, increase voltage.
4) If Above doesn't work, go back to stock







.


Pioneer, sorry to hear that buddy. I'm assuming you already performed extensive testing with the current overclock? I would personally back everything down to stock and see what happens. Are the BSOD's completely random?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Thanks, I've followed that guide numerous times (you or someone else posted it here and in my DFI thread). I'm fairly certain the problem isn't the PSU, I've tried a 430w TT and a 600w Ultra.
The problems aren't new, they are the same ones I posted about a few months ago.


Nate, I do recall your issue a while back. Did you ever attempt a hot flash with the BIOS? Did you get in contact with DFI directly and request a replacement BIOS chip?

Good luck guys


----------



## Blitz6804

Thlnk3r: He forgot to say here, but he said in IMs with me. The overclock was perfectly stable prior to the Apevia blowing. It is possible when it died it took something else out.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Nate, I do recall your issue a while back. Did you ever attempt a hot flash with the BIOS? Did you get in contact with DFI directly and request a replacement BIOS chip?

Good luck guys


nope I didn't... I don't have access to another DFI to flash with. I also have not contacted DFI.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


It is possible when it died it took something else out.


Blitz, thanks for the clarification. If that is true then who knows what else was damaged. This could be hard to troubleshoot









Keep us updated

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


nope I didn't... I don't have access to another DFI to flash with. I also have not contacted DFI.


Nate, is this a SLI-DR? Try to get in contact with DFI. There have been many users who have received replacement BIOS chips.

EDIT: Nevermind, Ultra-D

Good luck


----------



## Pest

phantommaggot, I'm on BIOS 1407 and I'm having no problems running an 9x mult and 300 fbs. So good luck









EDIT: I mean 1405.


----------



## pez

Card is working grand. But pio, as from all the experience with lock ups I've had that didn't BSOD, it was always a RAM problem. Have you tried different RAM?


----------



## Bartmasta

I used to have a 3500+ @ stock

no pics tho

it was nice


----------



## Blitz6804

Would you like to become a nostalgic member Bartmasta? Do you know if it was a Clawhammer, Manchester, or et cetera?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Would you like to become a nostalgic member Bartmasta? Do you know if it was a Clawhammer, Manchester, or et cetera?


I'd like to be a Nostalgic member. 
As I was donated a A64 3800+ by one of the members here. 
Just haven't gotten a board to get it going yet.
EDIT: After that its becoming my Overclock project/HTPC.

I want to OC it because apparently it cannot be overclocked. 
Then if I can or cannot I am putting it in an HTPC with my spare HD2600pro. 2gb of GeIL RAM. 
And Running it.


----------



## pez

OMG, everything is running smoother with the HD 4870, not to mention colors seem to look better as well. Everything kinda "pops" now. CoD4 is about 5 fps higher, but still seems to run a bit smoother. I even tried Crysis Warhead out...I'm averaging about 30 FPS, whereas w/ the SLI it was only 26 maybe. I guess my CPU was really bottlenecking and therefore not giving enough juice to even let SLI scale properly. I'm sure the new owner of the cards will have better luck as he's on an X58 board and his CPU is at 4.1GHz. I'm totally not disappointed in this card.


----------



## Pest

Glad to hear it pez. ATI ftw!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
OMG, everything is running smoother with the HD 4870, not to mention colors seem to look better as well. Everything kinda "pops" now. CoD4 is about 5 fps higher, but still seems to run a bit smoother. I even tried Crysis Warhead out...I'm averaging about 30 FPS, whereas w/ the SLI it was only 26 maybe. I guess my CPU was really bottlenecking and therefore not giving enough juice to even let SLI scale properly. I'm sure the new owner of the cards will have better luck as he's on an X58 board and his CPU is at 4.1GHz. I'm totally not disappointed in this card.

Pez, that is definitely good news. How are the temps on the 4870?

Keep gaming


----------



## Blitz6804

Tator: If you are going to be running a 939 as an HTPC, you would not be a Nostalgic, but instead, an active member! Just PM me a picture of the CPU for now, and I will list you in the offsite as an X2 3800+ @ stock. Once you get the motherboard, we can post your CPU-Z link.

To answer your earlier question, I think Pioneerisloud may have that motherboard in the Silencer.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Tator: If you are going to be running a 939 as an HTPC, you would not be a Nostalgic, but instead, an active member! Just PM me a picture of the CPU for now, and I will list you in the offsite as an X2 3800+ @ stock. Once you get the motherboard, we can post your CPU-Z link.

To answer your earlier question, I think Pioneerisloud may have that motherboard in the Silencer.

I'll talk to him and see.

Its also a regular 3800+ Not the x2.

I'll get you a picture tomorrow.
Gotta borrow me mums camera to take pictures as I have not invested in a digital.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pez, that is definitely good news. How are the temps on the 4870?

Keep gaming










Idle's at about 55C w/ 29% fan. I minimized after a little CoD4 and it was about 71C, so I'm not sure of the load temps quite yet.


----------



## Blitz6804

50% fan should be fine while gaming in my opinion. The best thing to do is make it as fast as your ears will tolerate.


----------



## pez

Yeah 45% with the other cards was my limit, so I think it's about the same with this one. But I'm curious to see load temps first. If the load temps are 85C and below with 29%, then it'll stay there.


----------



## Blitz6804

The easiest way to check your card's maximum temperature:

1) Install Furmark*
2) Run Furmark
3) In the configuration, pick "Stability Test," full screen, your monitor's native resolution, 0x AA
4) Start the run
5) Watch temperatures climb
6) If they are getting to high, abort, increase fan, return to step 2
7) When the temperature plateaus for at least 10 minutes, this is your cards maximum temperature

*On ATI 48xx series cards, the Catalyst Driver will automatically downclock your card to prevent it from overheating; this is a relic from before manual fan control was in the driver. To prevent this feature, rename "Furmark.exe" to "ETQW.exe." If you are running a Crossfire solution, you must do the same edit or else Furmark runs on only one card.

Tator: Got the PM.


----------



## pez

Just ran 3DMark06, despite the HD 4870 running better in games, it scored a measly 9400. Yet again, 3D(FAIL)06.


----------



## sillykid

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Looking at your rig, you will likely need to 1) lower your RAM divider, 2) loosen your RAM timings, and/or 3) increase your RAM voltage. 2-3-2-5-1T is rather tight for DDR 450. I am not saying it is impossible, but that might be part of the issue. The best way to test if the RAM is limiting you is to drop it another divider and run Prime again seeing if it works. If it is Prime stable, then the CPU is fine, but the RAM is too tight. If it fails anyway, try a little more vCore. 3.0 GHz is already pretty good for a K8, asking for much more might be unreasonable. (255x12 is almost 3.1 GHz for example.)

Haha I wish my ram can run at those speed but I do have a divider 5 Ram/6 FSB and it's actually running at 208 MHz. At 2-3-2-5-1T my ram can only do 220MHz stable. As for the increase to 255x12 I've tried it and it's a no go cause going 251MHz I was already getting errors in prime.


----------



## Blitz6804

I was going by your rig configuration which said 225 MHz (meaning DDR 450).

Instead of the 5/6 divider, why not try the 3/4 divider? (A.K.A. 200:150; DDR 300) Unless my math is mistaken, 250x12 with 5/6 would be DDR 400 even, not DDR 416. The 3/4 divider should be DDR 375.

You might be able to get the RAM to go a few MHz faster by loosening its timings to 2-3-3-6-1T, 2.5-3-3-6-1T, 2-3-2-5-2T, or similar.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *simfreak47*


[email protected]#$ $#^#$^ #$%@#*)^%^

I de-lidded my Athlon 3500+ last night. I also de-resistered it D:










When I delidded mine I took a lot of time. Took me like 15 minutes and about 4 razor blades as they kept wearing out. 
But look at it this way at least it was a cheap CPU. You can probably buy a new one for $30.


----------



## sillykid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I was going by your rig configuration which said 225 MHz (meaning DDR 450).

Instead of the 5/6 divider, why not try the 3/4 divider? (A.K.A. 200:150; DDR 300) Unless my math is mistaken, 250x12 with 5/6 would be DDR 400 even, not DDR 416. The 3/4 divider should be DDR 375.

You might be able to get the RAM to go a few MHz faster by loosening its timings to 2-3-3-6-1T, 2.5-3-3-6-1T, 2-3-2-5-2T, or similar.


Well I thought doing the math it would be DDR400 but for some reason it's showing up as DDR416 in CPUZ. I'll try loosening up the timing and see what I can get.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sillykid*


Haha I wish my ram can run at those speed but I do have a divider 5 Ram/6 FSB and it's actually running at 208 MHz. At 2-3-2-5-1T my ram can only do 220MHz stable. As for the increase to 255x12 I've tried it and it's a no go cause going 251MHz I was already getting errors in prime.


Sillykid, you might simply also be at the limit of your processor. Have you tried running the JEDEC standards (3-3-3-8 2T) on your memory to see if that allows you to push your processor overclock further? For testing I would also try and keep the memory frequency below stock. That way we can rule out any memory issues that may be preventing the OC.

Your chipset shouldn't be holding you back but just to make sure, I would increase the voltage from 1.6 to 1.7. Have you isolated your chipset to find it's limits?

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Hey fellaz Im in need of some appraisals on some of my parts. Head over to this thread and gimme some input:









Also, can any of you shed some light on removing the NB fan off of the DFI boards. Do those pins just pop out? Or do you need to do something else with them? Ive never removed any of them before so I'm in need of some tutelege.
Thanx


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hey fellaz Im in need of some appraisals on some of my parts. Head over to this thread and gimme some input:









Also, can any of you shed some light on removing the NB fan off of the DFI boards. Do those pins just pop out? Or do you need to do something else with them? Ive never removed any of them before so I'm in need of some tutelege.
Thanx


BlackOmega, I'll head over to that appraisal link and have a look for you









In regards to removing the chipset cooler...just squeeze the end of the pin together and push it out. My chipset had the pink adhesive tape so it was a bit of a pain to clean. There should also be a square foam that covers the little IC's that is around the die. That foam is typically attached to the chipset cooler. This is was on my SLI-DR so the application may be different on your CFX3200 though the coolers do look identical.

Hope that helps


----------



## BlackOmega

That does very much so, thanx thinker.







I wanna put the fan off of the CFX board on my NF4 board so I can use the 16x slot. Kind of funny though, I still get good frame rates in most games. Typically 50+ with everything maxed.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
That does very much so, thanx thinker.







I wanna put the fan off of the CFX board on my NF4 board so I can use the 16x slot.

Omega, sounds like a plan. One thing that helps when removing the pins, push them in first, squeeze the ends and push them out the opposite way.

Let us know if that helps

Good luck buddy


----------



## pez

I have to show it off, sorry:


----------



## sillykid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Sillykid, you might simply also be at the limit of your processor. Have you tried running the JEDEC standards (3-3-3-8 2T) on your memory to see if that allows you to push your processor overclock further? For testing I would also try and keep the memory frequency below stock. That way we can rule out any memory issues that may be preventing the OC.

Your chipset shouldn't be holding you back but just to make sure, I would increase the voltage from 1.6 to 1.7. Have you isolated your chipset to find it's limits?

Good luck


Sounds like a plan i'll give that a go and see if it's my memory holding me back. My chipset has gone way above that so I know it's not my chipset.


----------



## simfreak47

Pez, we have the same cooler. =O


----------



## pez

Haha that we do sir, and the same CPU







. I think we may have the same maxtor 200gb sata HDD too, eh? lol.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Haha that we do sir, and the same CPU







. I think we may have the same maxtor 200gb sata HDD too, eh? lol.

Okay, that is freaky...I've got the same hard drive! And I've got that cooler as well on my Venice.


----------



## nategr8ns

pez, all (well, mostly







) red looks good! I'm jealous of that GPU







.

lol I think I have a maxtor 200gb somewhere too! I really need to find it too







. Same cooler as well.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
pez, all (well, mostly







) red looks good! I'm jealous of that GPU







.

lol I think I have a maxtor 200gb somewhere too! I really need to find it too







. Same cooler as well.

Yeah, I love this thing to death so far. I swear, any time I've gotten my hands on an ATI card, It has never let me down. I have to say I'm becoming somewhat of an ATI fanboy.


----------



## HothBase

Did someone just say 200GB Maxtor?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


I have to show it off, sorry:












Now all you have to do is red anodize on the chassis for the tatal red package.







remember the movie the shining. red ram red ram mar der mar der red mobo red mobo obom der obom der and red vid red vid div der div der... silly me







is always a goof off...









Edit: Just don't start talking w/your finger Pez


----------



## N2Gaming

WoW guys is it really freaky??? I bet if I said I have a pretty girlfreind a lot of you would say hay I got the same thing that's freaky.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
WoW guys is it really freaky??? I bet if I said I have a pretty girlfreind a lot of you would say hay I got the same thing that's freaky.



















but we all know you don't









jk


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 









But we all know you don't









jk









lol


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Haha that we do sir, and the same CPU







. I think we may have the same maxtor 200gb sata HDD too, eh? lol.


Manchester? lol

It's a Maxtor DiamondMax 9 200GB SATA 150 drive.


----------



## simfreak47

I hate double posting.. but I pretty much just sold Ol' Faithful









HDD, DVD Burner, PSU, and the 7600GS, and my RAM..

I'ma upgrade her though, going to get SATA DVD burner, a cheap ThermalTake PSU, and a 8800GT hopefully. [$130 is the max I can go for all the parts]


----------



## nategr8ns

woohoo upgrade!
I wish cars/gas/insurance weren't so expensive, otherwise I could add another 2gb kit of ram







.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
*I wish cars/gas/insurance weren't so expensive.*

Oh man, no kidding. My car payment alone is $800! >.<

If I didn't have that, I'd have already started buying AM3 bits!


----------



## TestECull

Rofl.

You guys and your car payments.

Buy old, save money! Get a better car, too...


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
Rofl.

You guys and your car payments.

Buy old, save money! Get a better car, too...

I just went and looked at a 93 Lincoln towncar for the wife. Holy smoke that thing is huge.







Still runs like a champ, man I am so not used to the float of those big ol cars lol


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Now all you have to do is red anodize on the chassis for the tatal red package.







remember the movie the shining. red ram red ram mar der mar der red mobo red mobo obom der obom der and red vid red vid div der div der... silly me







is always a goof off...









Edit: Just don't start talking w/your finger Pez









lol.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *simfreak47* 
Manchester? lol

It's a Maxtor DiamondMax 9 200GB SATA 150 drive.

Yes, a manny lol, and I know my maxtor is a diamondmax (don't know 9 or 10) but it is a SATA 150 lol.

EDIT Just checked, it's a: http://www.newegg.com/product/produc...82E16822144184


----------



## thlnk3r

Guys try and stay on topic please


----------



## pez

Ok, so instead of getting an opty, I may get this. Yes I should wait for full AM3 to come out...but for the price....it's effing amazing. The Gigabyte site already lists full support for all of the AM3 CPU's that are to come out this year! Great part, $215 shipped to me







.

Mobo:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813128376

RAM:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231166

CPU:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819103300

Yeah, I know it's still a dual core, but I want to wait for quad core until the AM3's come out. Then if I so decide, I can just get a AM3 mobo. I'm excited about that great price.

EDIT: BTW guys, since I'm running one card again, I'm running stock voltage once again w/ 2.55GHz. I may try 2.6 again to see what happens.


----------



## pez

Sorry to double post guys, but I just tried 2.6ghz again (yes I know I should give up). The first time, I raised my Vcore to about 1.425 and then it just locked up, no BSOD. The second time, I raised my ram voltage to 2.9 and when it froze up this time, it actually BSOD'ed saying something about a calculation on a secondary processor. So I'm unsure what that means?


----------



## phantommaggot

man, this thread is so hard to keep up with...

i got back up to 2700 last night, and my keyboard quit working...
i went and got a new one.. and knocked it back down to 2500

would being overclocked too much make the usb ports not work?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *phantommaggot* 
would being overclocked too much make the usb ports not work?

maybe, do you have the usb power jumpers set on the mobo for use w/usb keybords etc???


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Sorry to double post guys, but I just tried 2.6ghz again (yes I know I should give up). The first time, I raised my Vcore to about 1.425 and then it just locked up, no BSOD. The second time, I raised my ram voltage to 2.9 and when it froze up this time, it actually BSOD'ed saying something about a calculation on a secondary processor. So I'm unsure what that means?

Try 1.5 vcore, and set your ram at 2.66v.

I would imagine the calculation on a second processor would have something to do, its not able to keep up with itself, because there aren't enough volts. My CPU won't boot into Windows with anything LESS than 1.5v

It works for me, and my 2.6Ghz is very stable.


----------



## pez

Yeah, i may try that out. Hopefully that will get me somehwere. keeping the RAM at 2.9 seemed to be a good thing...and I only have 2.7, 2.8, and 2.9 as options. (and then auto). I'm trying to beat this never ending battle of my CPU not wanting to be stable at 2.6. Also, what do you guys think of that small build I put together?


----------



## pez

Holy shiznit, I'm on 2.6GHz, 1.5 Vcore, 2.9V RAM and this is the longest it's ever lasted...not to mention I just played an hour-hour and a half of CS:S and was getting better frames. YES! I will now test for stability w/ orthos lol.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Holy shiznit, I'm on 2.6GHz, 1.5 Vcore, 2.9V RAM and this is the longest it's ever lasted...not to mention I just played an hour-hour and a half of CS:S and was getting better frames. YES! I will now test for stability w/ orthos lol.


 It might fail. Ive had orthos give me bad overclock results and other tests like S&M give me a pass. Ive found S&M to be the more accurate stress test. I've run the overclocks' 24/7 for a while with no issues. No lockups, freezes, BSODs' or anthing. I do have an issue with my 4870 not waking the monitor up from sleep mode. The computer works as I was ablt to reset it manually while the screen was blank. It restarted and everything was fine, so that leads me to believe that it's a driver issue.
good luck


----------



## simfreak47

I haven't run orthos. I just let Prime95 go for about an hour. Does everything I want it to, no problem.

Don't feel like re-posting, so here ya go!








http://www.overclock.net/5583455-post281.html


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *simfreak47*


I haven't run orthos. I just let Prime95 go for about an hour.

Don't feel like re-posting, so here ya go!








http://www.overclock.net/5583455-post281.html


 Prime/Orthos/OCCT all seem like the same test in different packing to me. I just don't like em for CPU testing. Mobo reference clock testing ok, but not the CPU. I use S&M for that.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *phantommaggot*


would being overclocked too much make the usb ports not work?


Phantommaggot, to me this sounds like it was caused by an unstable OC. I've actually had a hard drive disappear from my BIOS listing. POST wasn't showing anything and the sata ports weren't discovering the drive. I immediately backed down my overclock and everything was back to normal. Quite a strange occurrence.

Did you test the keyboard on another machine to verify it's functionality?

Good luck

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Prime/Orthos/OCCT all seem like the same test in different packing to me. I just don't like em for CPU testing. Mobo reference clock testing ok, but not the CPU. I use S&M for that.


I need to start trying out this S&M app. I've always used Orthos. I used S&M a few times on my previous machine and it was extremely intensive


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


It might fail. Ive had orthos give me bad overclock results and other tests like S&M give me a pass. Ive found S&M to be the more accurate stress test. I've run the overclocks' 24/7 for a while with no issues. No lockups, freezes, BSODs' or anthing. I do have an issue with my 4870 not waking the monitor up from sleep mode. The computer works as I was ablt to reset it manually while the screen was blank. It restarted and everything was fine, so that leads me to believe that it's a driver issue.
good luck










Well anytime I've been stable in orthos, I've never had any troubles elsewhere. Got 30 minutes stable so far







. I don't put my computer in sleep mode, though my monitor will go to screensaver, then cut the monitor off, but when I move the mouse for that, it wakes up just fine. Did you try hitting the space bar to wake it up?


----------



## simfreak47

At my 2700MHz run, my Wireless wouldn't connect (sadly, my desktop is on a wireless internet connection) to my router. Also, it would randomly get a TON of HDD activity.

Put it back to 2600MHz, and all is well









So I would conclude that an unstable overclock can affect USB/PCI/ or pretty much any device in your computer


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Well anytime I've been stable in orthos, I've never had any troubles elsewhere. Got 30 minutes stable so far







. I don't put my computer in sleep mode, though my monitor will go to screensaver, then cut the monitor off, but when I move the mouse for that, it wakes up just fine. *Did you try hitting the space bar to wake it up?*


 Yeah it did nothing. Had to be restarted. I know the key sequence for shutting down or restarting a computer through task manager so well, that I dont even need to see it to do it. 
thats what happens when you shut off a lot of computers everyday.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Yeah it did nothing. Had to be restarted. I know the key sequence for shutting down or restarting a computer through task manager so well, that I dont even need to see it to do it. 
thats what happens when you shut off a lot of computers everyday.










Ah well that sucks :/...but I woke up early, and I'm ready to use my computer. I'm gonna take any OC past this very slowly. I'm just going to creep the FSB up one by one each night for the next week and test stability on each one to find my max. Then I'll up the vcore again







. CPU-z is finally showing somewhat of a correct vcore now as well.

EDIT: Well despite it being 7 hours table, it froze up about 10-15 minutes afterwards. So i moved it up to 1.525 volts and 2.65. Froze up, so now I'm trying 1.525 volts with 2.6. Hopefully that will not freeze me up







.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *phantommaggot* 
would being overclocked too much make the usb ports not work?

Absolutely. I have experienced that problem myself; giving the southbridge some voltage and/or decreasing the HTT seems to fix it.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Also, what do you guys think of that small build I put together?

Not a huge fan of it personally. To get the most out of an AM2+ CPU, you need a 790 FX (or GX) / SB 700. While the southbridge is the SB 700, the NB is only the 770.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Ive found S&M to be the more accurate stress test. I've run the overclocks' 24/7 for a while with no issues. No lockups, freezes, BSODs' or anthing.

There is one issue I have with S&M: The S&M FPU test can BSOD an otherwise stable overclock. The last clock I tried passed every test I threw at it (Orthos, OCCT, CoD4, 3DMark06, Furmark, et cetera) but S&M caused it to BSOD.


----------



## whitt_flunky

What do I have to do to get in?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Not a huge fan of it personally. To get the most out of an AM2+ CPU, you need a 790 FX (or GX) / SB 700. While the southbridge is the SB 700, the NB is only the 770.

Slightly untrue here.

The NorthBridge 770 is a chopped up 790GX. They took out the CrossfireX support, and the IGP.
But it is the same after that point.

All 7 series Northbridges are chopped up from the 790FX.
The 790GX is a 790FX with 1 PCIe lane taken out, and an IGP added.
The 780G is a downclocked 790GX IGP, and usually mATX form factor. But still has 2 PCIe x16 lanes in it. So some of the ATX boards (like mine) can do CrossfireX.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *whitt_flunky* 
What do I have to do to get in?

All we need is a CPUz validation link or screenshot (link is preferred). Once they see it, Blitz and txtmstrjoe will add you to the rosters







.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Slightly untrue here.

The NorthBridge 770 is a chopped up 790GX. They took out the CrossfireX support, and the IGP.
But it is the same after that point.

All 7 series Northbridges are chopped up from the 790FX.
The 790GX is a 790FX with 1 PCIe lane taken out, and an IGP added.
The 780G is a downclocked 790GX IGP, and usually mATX form factor. But still has 2 PCIe x16 lanes in it. So some of the ATX boards (like mine) can do CrossfireX.

I was wondering what the 770's disadvantage was, but it seems it's OC'ing ability isn't one of them...Good info rep+


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


I was wondering what the 770's disadvantage was, but it seems it's OC'ing ability isn't one of them...Good info rep+


I think Anandtech did an article on this. (When it was SB750 just came out)

As far as I know, the Gigabyte 770G, 780G, & 790GX all have the same general overclock ability. (I'll look for the review)

The biggest thing to look out for is the moseft cooling. 
If you plan for some wicked high voltage in your overclocks then you will need after market cooling on almost all 770G and 780G boards, as the mosefts come bare with no heatsink.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


I think Anandtech did an article on this. (When it was SB750 just came out)

As far as I know, the Gigabyte 770G, 780G, & 790GX all have the same general overclock ability. (I'll look for the review)

The biggest thing to look out for is the moseft cooling. 
If you plan for some wicked high voltage in your overclocks then you will need after market cooling on almost all 770G and 780G boards, as the mosefts come bare with no heatsink.


This is the board: http://www.gigabyte.com.tw/FileList/...70-ud3_big.jpg

Where exactly is the mosfet on that board...sorry for my nubness. Also, I know my cooler says it has a little part that directs air down to cool those. The one in my sig.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


This is the board: http://www.gigabyte.com.tw/FileList/...70-ud3_big.jpg

Where exactly is the mosfet on that board...sorry for my nubness. Also, I know my cooler says it has a little part that directs air down to cool those. The one in my sig.


Check my added attachment.

I put a red line around the mosefts.

But if you have air moving across them they should be alright as long as you are not overclocking a 140watt Phenom.

The Phenom II's should be okay as well. Though I wouldn't go to crazy on the Phenom 9950 or 9850 Black Editions (125watt) As they tend to use the mosefts much more.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Check my added attachment.

I put a red line around the mosefts.

But if you have air moving across them they should be alright as long as you are not overclocking a 140watt Phenom.

The Phenom II's should be okay as well. Though I wouldn't go to crazy on the Phenom 9950 or 9850 Black Editions (125watt) As they tend to use the mosefts much more.


Alright thanks! That's a lot of help. I plan on getting a 7750 Kuma to start out with, and then eventually the 45nm AM3 Phenom II's.

And yeah, my cooler has air blowing in that area.


----------



## simfreak47

Bad news guys. I went to turn on my computer when I woke up, and it wouldn't come on when I hit the power button. Then I turned off my PSU and turned it back on and the comp would only come on for a half second then shut down. I turned off the PSU for ~5 minutes and turned it back on, and it worked. I'm hoping the issue is with my PSU.


----------



## N2Gaming

Good luck w/that one simfreak47


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *simfreak47*


Bad news guys. I went to turn on my computer when I woke up, and it wouldn't come on when I hit the power button. Then I turned off my PSU and turned it back on and the comp would only come on for a half second then shut down. I turned off the PSU for ~5 minutes and turned it back on, and it worked. I'm hoping the issue is with my PSU.


Yeah....450 Watt generic PSU's are a no-no. Get a cheap antec PSU and you'll be fine. Curious though, what card are you getting?


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Yeah....450 Watt generic PSU's are a no-no. Get a cheap antec PSU and you'll be fine. Curious though, what card are you getting?


I'm getting a Corsair 400watt PSU.. The card is either a 9600GT, or a HD3850


----------



## takealready

My sytem that I have now. I'm playing most games on the *poor-mans SLI* (yes that says dual 7300GT's).

I can play even crysis on medium with no problem (btw I think that game is overrated & that on gamespot COD4 should have won game of the year







)

When I can get some money I'll build my uber system, until then I'm going to choke this 3800+ X2 an inch within it's life. I still can't believe some of you can hit 3GHZ on this. Just getting to 2.5 GHZ or more is a fight to boot into windows. But I was lucky enough to put this screen shot together right before windows decided to freeze on me. So I was forced to go back to 2.5GHZ (this processor has more mood swings than my wife







). Also, I'm at 1.4 volts not 1.35. I guess it's the vcore shift feature on my mobo that's causing in incorrect volt reading.


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *takealready*


My sytem that I have now. I'm playing most games on the *poor-mans SLI* (yes that says dual 7300GT's).

I can play even crysis on medium with no problem (btw I think that game is overrated & that on gamespot COD4 should have won game of the year







)

When I can get some money I'll build my uber system, until then I'm going to choke this 3800+ X2 an inch within it's life. I still can't believe some of you can hit 3GHZ on this. Just getting to 2.5 GHZ or more is a fight to boot into windows. But I was lucky enough to put this screen shot together right before windows decided to freeze on me. So I was forced to go back to 2.5GHZ (this processor has more mood swings than my wife







). Also, I'm at 1.4 volts not 1.35. I guess it's the vcore shift feature on my mobo that's causing in incorrect volt reading.











Never seen a vista index like that before....


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *takealready*


My sytem that I have now. I'm playing most games on the *poor-mans SLI* (yes that says dual 7300GT's).

I can play even crysis on medium with no problem (btw I think that game is overrated & that on gamespot COD4 should have won game of the year







)

When I can get some money I'll build my uber system, until then I'm going to choke this 3800+ X2 an inch within it's life. I still can't believe some of you can hit 3GHZ on this. Just getting to 2.5 GHZ or more is a fight to boot into windows. But I was lucky enough to put this screen shot together right before windows decided to freeze on me. So I was forced to go back to 2.5GHZ (this processor has more mood swings than my wife







). Also, I'm at 1.4 volts not 1.35. I guess it's the vcore shift feature on my mobo that's causing in incorrect volt reading.

image edited out


Okay, first problem I see is that it appears you are running unmatched density RAM.  If you've got it, go for 2x1GB or 4x512MB instead, and just forget about the extra 512MB. That is DEFINITELY part of your stability problems.

Secondly, you're on a Manchester X2. Those are NOTORIOUS for not overclocking past 2.6GHz (usually 2.4-2.6GHz).

However its still a great performing CPU no doubt







. Good luck.


----------



## nategr8ns

I didn't even notice it said 2.5gb until I read pio's post







.
I would stick with 2gb... The extra 512 won't help much anyway.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *simfreak47*


I'm getting a Corsair 400watt PSU.. The card is either a 9600GT, or a HD3850


Get a 9600GT hands down. 3850's are notorious for choking under AA and AF, in fact the 3800 series is notorious for that period. Ask blitz.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Okay, first problem I see is that it appears you are running unmatched density RAM. If you've got it, go for 2x1GB or 4x512MB instead, and just forget about the extra 512MB. That is DEFINITELY part of your stability problems.

Secondly, you're on a Manchester X2. Those are NOTORIOUS for not overclocking past 2.6GHz (usually 2.4-2.6GHz).

However its still a great performing CPU no doubt







. Good luck.


I can vouch for Pio's second reason. I cannot get my manny 2.6 stable for anything, and I'm not going to jump .20 volts just to get my cpu stable for 100mhz more.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *takealready* 
My sytem that I have now. I'm playing most games on the *poor-mans SLI* (yes that says dual 7300GT's).

I can play even crysis on medium with no problem (btw I think that game is overrated & that on gamespot COD4 should have won game of the year








)

HOLY S**T batman! Cryfail on Med settings on a 8gb bandwidth setup! That blows my mind!

















So rather than failing to reach 3g on my 3200+ today I hooked up with a guy on craigclist to get a cheap 775 for my folding rig and I ended up with this.

2.66 775 uni
Antec Neopower 650W Blue PS
chinese POS 430W PS
logitech remote mouse
tons of adapter cables
4 ddr 256mb - only 2 matching (nanya 400mh cl3) He just handed me the mem when he left lol
1 ddr 64mb
gpu asus standoff fan
hdmi conector
all delivered!

All for $50.00! I was thinking I couldn't even afford the Antec cause he was trying to sell it alone for $80 on craigslist! LOL

As soon as he walked in he saw all the stuff all over and said "S**T how long you been doing this"! I laughed and told him 30 years lol. I knew most of the stuff he had that he didn't know what it was. Hah Also I'm gonna repair his 1000w ps for him. and we're gonna go out drinking later. Sweet deal and a drinking buddy to boot (one with a license)

Big Win!









Now i'll have another folding rig up soon!







I'm happy


----------



## timxirish

Wow, nice! Talk about $50 well spent, haha.

Also, simfreak47: Personally I would shoot for a better PSU if in the business of upgrading parts. Blown PSUs suck, and since i'm fond of the "better safe than sorry" approach, I'd try a 550w or a 600w. If you have reasons for using a PSU that low, then it's understandable.

Personally I use a 700w.. blew a 500w a while back.. Had too much drawing power from it, and then connected one more HD... Bad move. Blew the thing, but thankfully it didn't fry any other components.


----------



## pez

Ok guys, good news, I'm gonna start folding since I'm back to using one card. I'm not sure what the 4870's produce, but it can't be too bad, but I'll take anything. I guess once I learn how to do it, I'll just let the program while I'm asleep and while I'm at school then work. So out of a normal weekday, it'll get in about 15 hours. I can't wait for income tax returns to be in my bank account. It'll get me closer to my next upgrade







.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


There is one issue I have with S&M: The S&M FPU test can BSOD an otherwise stable overclock. The last clock I tried passed every test I threw at it (Orthos, OCCT, CoD4, 3DMark06, Furmark, et cetera) but S&M caused it to BSOD.


 Well then its not a stable overclock now is it?
















As for the test, the FPU test, IMO, is THE most hardcore test Ive seen. It taxes my CPUs' harder than ANY other program Ive used. They get so freakin hot when running the FPU test. 
And thats kind of odd that S&M causes a crash and it's stable through OCCT







. 
I started using S&M was because Orthos/OCCT were failing perfectly good overclocks that Ive run 24/7 for months without a single hiccup, not 1 lockup/freeze/software crash or anything, yet theyd fail Orthos/OCCT within a minute.








So I decided to use Orthos/OCCT for reference clock testing and S&M for CPU. And so far I've had really good results.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


HOLY S**T batman! Cryfail on Med settings on a 8gb bandwidth setup! That blows my mind!

















So rather than failing to reach 3g on my 3200+ today I hooked up with a guy on craigclist to get a cheap 775 for my folding rig and I ended up with this.

2.66 775 uni
Antec Neopower 650W Blue PS
chinese POS 430W PS
logitech remote mouse
tons of adapter cables
4 ddr 256mb - only 2 matching (nanya 400mh cl3) He just handed me the mem when he left lol
1 ddr 64mb
gpu asus standoff fan
hdmi conector
all delivered!

All for $50.00! I was thinking I couldn't even afford the Antec cause he was trying to sell it alone for $80 on craigslist! LOL

As soon as he walked in he saw all the stuff all over and said "S**T how long you been doing this"! I laughed and told him 30 years lol. I knew most of the stuff he had that he didn't know what it was. Hah Also I'm gonna repair his 1000w ps for him. and we're gonna go out drinking later. Sweet deal and a drinking buddy to boot (one with a license)

Big Win!









Now i'll have another folding rig up soon!







I'm happy


 My 2 6800's can run Crysis with everything on high, with shadows off and textures on med. Ill have to take a screenshot









And nice find on all those parts


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *timxirish*


Wow, nice! Talk about $50 well spent, haha.

Also, simfreak47: Personally I would shoot for a better PSU if in the business of upgrading parts. Blown PSUs suck, and since i'm fond of the "better safe than sorry" approach, I'd try a 550w or a 600w. If you have reasons for using a PSU that low, then it's understandable.

Personally I use a 700w.. blew a 500w a while back.. Had too much drawing power from it, and then connected one more HD... Bad move. Blew the thing, but thankfully it didn't fry any other components.


I think that 400w would work. I only have 1 HDD, 1 DVD Drive, plan on 1 video card, and no PCI cards (soundcards, TV tuners, etc)


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


I'm not sure what the 4870's produce, but it can't be too bad, but I'll take anything.


A single HD 4870 will produce between 1800 and 4200 PPD depending on the work unit.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well then its not a stable overclock now is it?


It depends on your thoughts of stability. If it NEVER crashes during what you want it to do, is not that stable? We tend to check stability above-and-beyond what you need to make sure you do not run into problems. And anyway, the FPU test BSODs two minutes before it ends. It did it four times in a row.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
HOLY S**T batman! Cryfail on Med settings on a 8gb bandwidth setup! That blows my mind!

















So rather than failing to reach 3g on my 3200+ today I hooked up with a guy on craigclist to get a cheap 775 for my folding rig and I ended up with this.

2.66 775 uni
Antec Neopower 650W Blue PS
chinese POS 430W PS
logitech remote mouse
tons of adapter cables
4 ddr 256mb - only 2 matching (nanya 400mh cl3) He just handed me the mem when he left lol
1 ddr 64mb
gpu asus standoff fan
hdmi conector
all delivered!

All for $50.00! I was thinking I couldn't even afford the Antec cause he was trying to sell it alone for $80 on craigslist! LOL

As soon as he walked in he saw all the stuff all over and said "S**T how long you been doing this"! I laughed and told him 30 years lol. I knew most of the stuff he had that he didn't know what it was. Hah Also I'm gonna repair his 1000w ps for him. and we're gonna go out drinking later. Sweet deal and a drinking buddy to boot (one with a license)

Big Win!









Now i'll have another folding rig up soon!







I'm happy









nice!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
My 2 6800's can run Crysis with everything on high, with shadows off and textures on med. Ill have to take a screenshot









And nice find on all those parts









shadows off? Pfft... They look so nice! IMO you should see if there's a low-poly mod for the grass... There's so much detail in it it's crazy!

edit: does anyone have any old PCI/AGP graphics cards? I need some capable of playing CS1.6, serious sam 2, and older games like that. Trying to set up lan party rigs for my friends with all of the donated computers I've gotten







.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


shadows off? Pfft... They look so nice! IMO you should see if there's a low-poly mod for the grass... There's so much detail in it it's crazy!


 Well they are 6800's. Both of them put together dont even match the performance of 1 of my 9600GSO's at stock settings and forget about if its overclocked. Now if I could SLI them with a CPU that doesnt bottleneck them, I bet I could get some impressive results.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well they are 6800's. Both of them put together dont even match the performance of 1 of my 9600GSO's at stock settings and forget about if its overclocked. Now if I could SLI them with a CPU that doesnt bottleneck them, I bet I could get some impressive results.


When the 6800GT's came out, X2's were just coming out, so even a single core at 2.2ghz doesn't even bottleneck those cards.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


It depends on your thoughts of stability. If it NEVER crashes during what you want it to do, is not that stable? We tend to check stability above-and-beyond what you need to make sure you do not run into problems. And anyway, the FPU test BSODs two minutes before it ends. It did it four times in a row.



Well that is odd. What are your temps like when it crashes? Ive noticed on my rigs that the FPU gets em hotter than any other test. As for typical usage, youll probably never use an application that actually utilizes that much of a CPUs processing capability.

Just out of curiosity what bug code do you get?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


When the 6800GT's came out, X2's were just coming out, so even a single core at 2.2ghz doesn't even bottleneck those cards.


 I meant my GSOs' not the 6800's. The 6800's served me well for a number of years, they can run CSS maxed out at a VERY respectable framerate. Some of the newer games are a little worse, like Clive barkers Jericho was totally unplayable, <15fps. But I even tried the Crysis demo with em, as long as shadows are off its totally playable. And that was @ 1600x1200.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *simfreak47*


Bad news guys. I went to turn on my computer when I woke up, and it wouldn't come on when I hit the power button. Then I turned off my PSU and turned it back on and the comp would only come on for a half second then shut down. I turned off the PSU for ~5 minutes and turned it back on, and it worked. I'm hoping the issue is with my PSU.


Simfreak47, how much stability testing did you do with that overclock? I've had unstable overclocks cause the above symptoms. What is the brand/model of your power supply?

Good luck


----------



## takealready

Thanks 4 all the advice guys. I will take out the extra 512 MB and keep it at 2GB. A lot of people are shocked that I can play crysis on a 7300GT and at my Vista index score. Most people on another forum (I won't name-names) bashed me when I told them my score (they still didn't believe me). So I had to make a screenshot video to prove them wrong (I'm a big advocate of what 7300 GT's can do). BTW I Couldn't play Crysis with one 7300GT, but when I got the other 7300GT on ebay (for $30) I was able to play it. _I'm not going to start a SLI/CF debate (I've already got 4 of those going on now on other forums). But I'll just say I've seen what adding a second GPU can do for a system._

I didn't know the Manchester's didn't overclock past 2.6. That would explain the reason none of my attempts (even when I was trying with 2GB of RAM) would work. Because I remember this personhttp://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=267744 got there Manchester to 3GHZ so I though I could do it as well.

I did tell you guys that i will choke this system to death and I meant it.







. strangely the game that brings my 7300GT's to there knees it Assassins Creed (I love that game). I can only play it after heavily modifying the config file for the game with notepad.

I'm not going to do anything else to this system code name "Deuce" _(because everything came in pairs: 2 GPU's, 2 hard drives, 2 DVD burners, dual core processor, 4 80mm fans (a multiple of 2







) and 2GB of RAM._

But my next build will be in the area of $900. It's just a matter of when that $900 comes my way. If I could find a X2 4200+ for socket 939, I would:
1. Get a GTX 260
2. Overclock the processor to 3GHZ
3. Not build another computer for another 3 years

_*sorry I kept yapping on. It's 3:30 am (Easter Time) and I'm a little tired. Good night/Good morning.*_


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *takealready*


Thanks 4 all the advice guys. I will take out the extra 512 MB and keep it at 2GB. A lot of people are shocked that I can play crysis on a 7300GT and at my Vista index score. Most people on another forum (I won't name-names) bashed me when I told them my score (they still didn't believe me). So I had to make a screenshot video to prove them wrong (I'm a big advocate of what 7300 GT's can do). BTW I Couldn't play Crysis with one 7300GT, but when I got the other 7300GT on ebay (for $30) I was able to play it. _I'm not going to start a SLI/CF debate (I've already got 4 of those going on now on other forums). But I'll just say I've seen what adding a second GPU can do for a system._

I didn't know the Manchester's didn't overclock past 2.6. That would explain the reason none of my attempts (even when I was trying with 2GB of RAM) would work. Because I remember this personhttp://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=267744 got there Manchester to 3GHZ so I though I could do it as well.

I did tell you guys that i will choke this system to death and I meant it.







. strangely the game that brings my 7300GT's to there knees it Assassins Creed (I love that game). I can only play it after heavily modifying the config file for the game with notepad.

I'm not going to do anything else to this system code name "Deuce" _(because everything came in pairs: 2 GPU's, 2 hard drives, 2 DVD burners, dual core processor, 4 80mm fans (a multiple of 2







) and 2GB of RAM._

But my next build will be in the area of $900. It's just a matter of when that $900 comes my way. If I could find a X2 4200+ for socket 939, I would:
1. Get a GTX 260
2. Overclock the processor to 3GHZ
3. Not build another computer for another 3 years

_*sorry I kept yapping on. It's 3:30 am (Easter Time) and I'm a little tired. Good night/Good morning.*_


That wasn't a 3800+ Manchester, which max out at about 2.6GHz (which I can confirm). 
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=506280

Also, if you want to upgrade your CPU, look out for a Toledo 4600+, or an FX-57 to FX-60


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Simfreak47, how much stability testing did you do with that overclock? I've had unstable overclocks cause the above symptoms. What is the brand/model of your power supply?

Good luck










I don't know what kind of PSU it is. It's just my spare/backup one, because I sold my other PSU.

I had to put it back to stock, was the only way it would actually work.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *takealready*


_*sorry I kept yapping on. It's 3:30 am (Easter Time) and I'm a little tired. Good night/Good morning.*_


Easter time you say?







.


----------



## Blitz6804

takealready / simfreak47: A Manchester is a Manchester regardless of the multiplier. They GENERALLY top out around 2.5-2.7 GHz. However, there are exceptions to every trend:

Anqt31 (4200+ @ 3006 MHz)
krnx714 (4200+ @ 2916 MHz)
Matt012 (4200+ @ 2827 MHz)
Name Change (3800+ @ 3103 MHz)
Pap3r (4600+ @ 2806 MHz)
Pioneerisloud (3800+ @ 2937 MHz)
PROBN4LYFE (4200+ @ 3024 MHz)
Starholdest (4600+ @ 2945 MHz)
Ultrasonic2 (muffy) (4600+ @ 3000 MHz)

Quod erat demonstrandum.

To quote Joe:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Good steppings: CCBBE; LCB9E; LCBQE. CCBBEs are from 2006; LCB*Es are from late 2006-mid 2007.

Note: Stepping recommendations are NOT a guarantee of a overclocking result. They merely indicate possible outcomes due to the law of averages being in your favor.

Hope this helps!


----------



## Blitz6804

takealready: I forgot; is it possible for you to submit a CPU-Z validation so we can hook you up on the roster? Also, the voltage shown in CPU-Z should be correct; the voltage shown in CoreTemp in your Hammer VID, not your actual voltage. That is, according to AMD, your 3800+ requires 1.3500 V to run at 10x200. Some 939 CPUs had a 1.400 V Hammer VID. Some are even 1.50 V, namely, older single-core CPUs like Winchesters.


----------



## nategr8ns

scary, my math teacher says that a lot...
except he abreviates it to "QED"







.


----------



## takealready

I just looked up the FX-60 and I like the specs. Problem is that on that auction website people are cutting each others throats for that thing (I can't blame them). The cheapest one their is $200, and the highest priced one has 23 bids and is at $278. I'm better off switching to the 940 pin socket AM2/AM2+/AM3 (or whatever else AMD is going to call it next).

It's a shame though







that the 939 pin "gets no love".

I would of love to build the "Testosterone System" _yes all my builds have codenames_
*(FX-60 overclocked to 3 GHZ-3.2 GHZ, Dual 9800 GX2, 100" Projector screen, and a nuclear reactor to power the 9800 GX2's. BTW I fell MADLY IN LOVE







with the 9800GX2 after seeing it rape games on my friends rig). *

I hope I can be inducted into this prestigious group of 939 lovers/owners. And if anybody feels like giving away a FX-60, just PM me







. It'll make for a good early Christmas gift.


----------



## Blitz6804

Again takealready, all we need to get you in a CPU-Z validation link or a screen-shot of the CPU tab. (The former is preferred. You have given us a screen shot of the memory tab.) As for the FX-60: The premium is not worth it. An Opteron 180 or 175 would likely be a better purchase. In my experience, the unlocked multiplier, while easy to overclock, is far inferior as to increasing the HTT, and perhaps, decreasing the multiplier. As I said, the "ideal" 939 setup would be 12x250 with the RAM running 1:1 (DDR 500) with the 1T command rate.

As for your next gen question, AM2/AM2+ is 940 pins, AM3 is 938 pins.


----------



## tofunater

So I'm back again, I swapped out my A8n-e for a DFI NF4. Just messing around I've got my opty 165 stable at 2.88ghz. I'm gonna try a reseat to make sure my tim is spread evenly, and then I'm gonna try for 3ghz.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *simfreak47* 
I don't know what kind of PSU it is. It's just my spare/backup one, because I sold my other PSU.

I had to put it back to stock, was the only way it would actually work.

Simfreak47, there should be a sticker on the side of the power supply. It should list the model and brand.

If backing your overclock to stock allowed your machine to turn on more reliably then that is a true sign of an unstable overclock. Back it down a bit from your previous overclock and start testing again.

Hope that helps









EDIT:

Tofunater, great job on the overclock









+1


----------



## nategr8ns

mmm... tofu









nice job!


----------



## tofunater

What are considered maximum acceptable load temps for an opty 165?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tofunater*


What are considered maximum acceptable load temps for an opty 165?


Depends who you ask.









If you ask Blitz, around 65 degs C at the cores. If you ask pio, something in excess of 70 degs C at the cores.

I've got an Opteron dual-core that has seen north of 75 degs C sustained (during a max load stress condition) for over thirty minutes (probably well over that -- like at minimum an hour and change). The chip did NOT melt or fry







, and it's still alive and kicking today.

So, in a roundabout way, the answer to your question is: It all depends on how well your particular chip can tolerate the heat and stay stable, and on how brave (or daft) you're feeling at the moment.







Blitz's quoted figure is probably a good baseline to start with, though, in my opinion. But I do know these little things are tough and can tolerate plenty of thermal energy.


----------



## tofunater

So 51c in everest is perfectly acceptable. Good, looks like I'm gonna be able to do over 3ghz.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tofunater*


So 51c in everest is perfectly acceptable. Good, looks like I'm gonna be able to do over 3ghz.










tofunater, I hope the OCing gods smile upon thee.









Just be mindful that temperatures aren't the end-all be-all when it comes to maximizing OCs. In other words, you may seem to have a lot of thermal headroom left, but if the chip simply doesn't have it in itself to hit a certain target speed, well...

Just the same, good luck to you!


----------



## Blitz6804

The highest it is permitted to go and keep the warranty intact is 65Âº C. Granted, most of us do not care about warranties. So, as Joe said, it is a useful benchmark to start with. Understand please, as TestECull has proved, the higher your voltage goes, the lower the maximum temperature is. My fuzzy math in the past has tried to guess the decrease in temperatures as the voltage goes up, but it is just that: fuzzy. I have no proof to it. As Pioneerisloud has demonstrated, they can go near 80Âº C for brief periods without any apparent damage, but I do not know what the voltage was at that time.


----------



## tofunater

I'm also getting mixed messages on acceptable volts. What should i keep it under?
at 2.97 right now, but I'm not stable. It wants more voltage, I'm just not sure if I should.


----------



## Blitz6804

Found my discussion on it:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Yes TestECull, that is correct. Every step you increase the voltage decreases the safe temperature. An 89 W processor draws 66 A at its stock 1.35 V. (From P = I*V => I = P/V) We know then the processor's internal resistance is 20.4 mΩ, assuming a perfect world. (From V = I*R => R = V/I) So, if we increase the voltage to lets say 1.65 V, we can compute the new wattage, that is, 133 W. (From P = I*V = (V/R)*V = V^2/R) Again, this assumes a perfect world, that is, that resistance does not increase as voltage increases.

We could look up what the maximum safe temperature is for a 133 W processor if such a thing existed. Based on the Windsor (at 125 W) having a maximum safe temperature of 63Âº C, I would expect it to be lower still. It would be false science to do what I am about to do, but I am going to do it anyway:

89 W is good to 71Âº C
110 W is good to 65Âº C

Thus, we lose 6Âº C for a gain of 31 W. That is, 5 1/6 W per degree Celsius. From 110 W to 133 W, we gain 23 W. Thus, we expect to lose 4.45Âº C from a 110 W CPU, making our max "safe" temp to be 60.6Âº C.

Again, this is a junk science I am doing here, but I think it would be safe to say that 61Âº C would not be an unreasonable reduction in temperature to prevent damage.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


It is junk science because I am only using two data points and guessing what the processor's internal resistance is. In order to make a statistically accurate trend line, I would need no fewer than fifty or so points. (And yes, if we go very crudely, you can in fact make a point/slope line such that you can determine what the theoretical maximum temperature of any CPU is.) Further, I am under the impression that the relationship is not linearly converse, but some second-order equation. This throws a wrench into the whole system. However, using it as a linear system might be safer than using the second order equation as it might predict a lower safe temperature than is actually true. (Then again, depending where on the parabola it is, it may be predicting higher.)

This of course has interesting applications for owners of "golden chips." Theoretically, you could lower the wattage making your maximum temperature go higher. If your CPU could run with the reduced voltage, you might actually be able to clock higher than at stock voltage if you are someone who has an insane ambient or poor case flow.

I am glad to see at least one case where my theory was reduced to practice. I am very unhappy that you had to lose your Venice to prove it.


I did not mention it here, but a Kill-a-Watt might also help to see exactly how much draw the socket is providing.

tofunater: Generally, it is 1.400 V on stock cooling, 1.500 V on air cooling, 1.550 V under water, and 1.600 V on phase change and/or TEC. Personal opinions vary however. I personally will not exceed 50 mV over my processor's VID. (So a 1.350 V CPU would be running at 1.400 V.) As my "junk science" has shown, higher voltages equate to a lower safe temperature, which explains why better cooling solutions have higher maximum voltages. The exact correlation between temperature and voltage is, however, unknown; just know that there is an inverse relationship: as voltage goes up, temperature goes down. (110 W 939 was 65Âº C, 89 W 939 was 71Âº, 65 W AM2 was 73Âº C just as a quick example.)


----------



## tofunater

That was incredibly helpful blitz. I'm still trying to understand the voltage options on this board, and it turns out I was just booting into windows at 1.6 volts. No wonder things were starting to get unstable








I just reset back to stock and am gonna really follow a process this time. Although just messing around with this chip is showing me what kind of potential its got. I will post back with a real overclock soon. Thanks guys


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Simfreak47, there should be a sticker on the side of the power supply. It should list the model and brand.

If backing your overclock to stock allowed your machine to turn on more reliably then that is a true sign of an unstable overclock. Back it down a bit from your previous overclock and start testing again.

Hope that helps









EDIT:

Tofunater, great job on the overclock









+1

I sold my PSU, and I only had this one laying around. My OC was stable on my other PSU, but this one doesn't even like coming on when it's stock (just found that out today).

It only has 15 amps on the +12v, too.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *simfreak47* 
I sold my PSU, and I only had this one laying around. My OC was stable on my other PSU, but this one doesn't even like coming on when it's stock (just found that out today).

It only has 15 amps on the +12v, too.

Simfreak47, 15amps total is a tad low. I would seriously consider not even running an overclock at all until you can get that unit replaced. It's not worth destroying your hardware. Do you have a budget for a new power supply?

Good luck


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Simfreak47, 15amps total is a tad low. I would seriously consider not even running an overclock at all until you can get that unit replaced. It's not worth destroying your hardware. Do you have a budget for a new power supply?

Good luck









I'm getting this due to the $20 MIR.








http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817139008

Should do good, as I will only have a single GPU, 1 HDD, and 1 DVD drive. Already told my mom that's the one I want.


----------



## Tefnek

i have an old AMD Athlon64 3200+ San Diego + ASUS A8N-E running my web server, Stable as a rock and been runnin for almost 5 years now!

<3 AMD, Stability + Quality.

Used to game on the beast, she has 2x1GBs(DDR) of RAM, and a 6800GTX.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Alright, well I may or may not have found my problem. I've just allowed my motherboard to auto set ALL of my RAM timings and speeds and all that jazz. It's been rock solid (enough) since about oh, noon yesterday. I haven't actually tested stability, but it hasn't locked up yet on me. So I may be onto something.

Also, it appears I am moving from a single 8800GT to SLI'd 9600GT's. I will of course let you guys know how it goes...but I won't be able to do any comparisons







.


----------



## N2Gaming

That's good news Pio. hope it stays stable for you. Meanwhile I'm still waiting for my ebay purchased A8N32 SLI Deluxe mobo.







I just hope it's all good when i get it. I'll test it with my el cheapo hardware before using the good stuff.









N2G


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *simfreak47* 
I'm getting this due to the $20 MIR.








http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817139008

Should do good, as I will only have a single GPU, 1 HDD, and 1 DVD drive. Already told my mom that's the one I want.

Simfreak47, great selection. That particular power supply is manufactured by Seasonic. That company has a reputation for creating realiable strong power supplies. It should be able to provide plenty of power to your rig.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Alright, well I may or may not have found my problem. I've just allowed my motherboard to auto set ALL of my RAM timings and speeds and all that jazz. It's been rock solid (enough) since about oh, noon yesterday. I haven't actually tested stability, but it hasn't locked up yet on me. So I may be onto something.

Also, it appears I am moving from a single 8800GT to SLI'd 9600GT's. I will of course let you guys know how it goes...but I won't be able to do any comparisons







.

Pioneer, good to hear that you narrowed down your problem. Hopefully you can find a resolution soon to these odd issues.

Keep us updated on the SLI setup.

Good luck guys


----------



## takealready

Here's my validation. Though I went back to my normal overclock of 2.4 GHZ. When I feel like choking this processor again I'll resubmit my 2.6 GHZ overclock. Like in my previous screenshot.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=509897


----------



## Blitz6804

I will add you to the off-site roster when I get home tonight.


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *takealready* 
Here's my validation. Though I went back to my normal overclock of 2.4 GHZ. When I feel like choking this processor again I'll resubmit my 2.6 GHZ overclock. Like in my previous screenshot.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=509897

Looks good









I noticed you have "noname" RAM. You might want to lower your RAM divider, because it's running at 480MHz, which is pretty high, and could also be your instability.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *takealready* 
Here's my validation. Though I went back to my normal overclock of 2.4 GHZ. When I feel like choking this processor again I'll resubmit my 2.6 GHZ overclock. Like in my previous screenshot.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=509897

Takealready, you've been added to the roster. Welcome to the club









You might have a easier time overclocking with a matching set of memory. I know this has been mentioned already but I thought I'd just mention it again. Having different memory forces you to have to work with different memory sub-timings and VDimm values. If the memory configuration in the BIOS is set to AUTO then it will default to the slowest stick of memory. Seeming all three sticks are PC3200 then it will use whatever has the most relaxed timings.

Try removing the Infineon (512MB) stick and see if you are able to push any further.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

As I believe we discussed already, the disadvantage of running in single-channel mode far outweighs the benefits of another half-gigabyte of RAM. If you do not believe me, get ahold of Everest Ultimate (30-day trialware) and run a memory and cache benchmark. With 2.5 GB, you would expect your memory bandwidth to be nearly half of your bandwidth with 2.0 GB. In tests such as 3DMark06, you would expect a 2-400 point difference accordingly.


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz, are you referring to my post above? Sorry buddy you got me confused again.


----------



## Blitz6804

thlnk3r: We, as a club, had discussed takealready's RAM situation in the past. He had said he would remove a DIMM for testing, but from the CPU-Z, I suspected he had either (1) not done so yet, or (2) had done so and was not pleased with the results. My post, supra, was going toward my reasons for as to why he should have only two DIMMs, as I had not get my two cents in earlier. He should verify in CPU-Z that the RAM is running in the correct slots to be dual-channel.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


thlnk3r: We, as a club, had discussed takealready's RAM situation in the past.


Blitz, which is why I said I know it had already been mentioned


----------



## Blitz6804

I know, and you gave the reason of differential SPDs, I gave the reason of dual channel versus single channel.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Quod erat demonstrandum.

:


 Whats that mean?


----------



## Blitz6804

Quod erat demonstrandum: Â«That is what was meant to be proven.Â»


----------



## BlackOmega

Cool. None of my teachers speak latin but I do have a chem prof that swears a lot. It cracks me up because the other people in the in the class are like







and Im like







. Work in a garage for about a year and lets see what your vocabulary turns in to


----------



## takealready

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I will add you to the off-site roster when I get home tonight.


ok thanks


----------



## Blitz6804

JUST added you to said off-site roster.


----------



## takealready

I haven't removed the 512mb stick yet. I just came home from work and posted the cpu-z validation. I haven't messed with my system yet.

But when I did have only 2GB of ram the system was unstable when I would leave it idle. That was because of me choking the ram so tight it was crying out of it's arse. I eased off (so I though). I didn't notice I still had it at 240MHZ till someone mentioned it.

I should really be more nice to my system and stop treating it like a _"Back alley women of the night that always likes it ruff







"_

I'll give my acceptance speech later..When I can think of the words.


----------



## takealready

acceptance speech...

-I'd like to thank AMD for making a processor that "likes it ruff and doesn't mind being choked from time to time.'








-I'd like to thank all my fellow elites for there wisdom
-I'd like to thank the person (or persons) whom created this website.
-And that's it


----------



## simfreak47

Takealready, you gotta watch out for dividers and whatnot when it comes to RAM. I really can't get into detail, because my desktop is OOC ATM, and my laptop battery is about to die









Good luck, and welcome to the club.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *takealready* 
acceptance speech...

-I'd like to thank AMD for making a processor that "likes it ruff and doesn't mind being choked from time to time.'








-I'd like to thank all my fellow elites for there wisdom
-I'd like to thank the person (or persons) whom created this website.
-And that's it


Lol.

Had to sig part of that>


----------



## takealready

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Lol.

Had to sig part of that>









I like it too. I'm a very creative person.

I just took out my other 512MB ram. And I'm on dual channel now. my dual channel "no name" 240MHZ ram is all I have in there. I wish I knew the company that made my noname. I don't want to strain my eyes reading the type on the NAND. I've become somewhat of a fan on "noname"
_I've already got the vision of a Drunk Hawk. I dont' want it to get any worse.







_

Anyway I went into my BIOS and noticed this..
http://wm56.inbox.com/thumbs/31_e72d...3_oJ.jpg.thumb

These were the setting I had on my pc when I submitted my validation. So cpu-z says I'm at 2.4ghz when according to my BIOS I should be at 2.5ghz. I've noticed unlike my old XP64, Vista throttles my processor and my volts. So I'm assuming at the time I clicked validate my system was running at 2.5GHZ.

My default CPU Ratio is X10. My PC has been stable ever since I submitted my first screenshot to this forum. When I submitted that screenshot I was really "waxin dat arse like a Zambonie". I made a comment how I can get to 2.6 but nothing is stable.

http://wm56.inbox.com/thumbs/2f_e72d...3_oJ.jpg.thumb

Oh well...


----------



## takealready

As some of you have noticed by my choice of words and by my screenshots.
I don't overclock....I mutilate









_Some of these websites shoud send processors and video cards to me to really test._

From this moment on I shall be referred to as, The Joker of Overclocking. BTW I loved him in that batman. Heath played the S$#% out of that role, no one can EVER play the joker better than him.


----------



## Blitz6804

takealready: this is a silly question, but in Vista, do you have it in the "high performance" setting? This will disable CnQ in the operating system. Generally, disabling it in the BIOS is good enough, but I have heard of at least one motherboard before (an ECS maybe?) where even when it is off in the BIOS, Vista can still throttle the CPU.


----------



## takealready

I do have it off in the BIOS.


----------



## Blitz6804

My question was do you have it off in the OS, that is, do you have vista set to "maximum performance?" Any other setting possibly could throttle the CPU (however unlikely). This is unlike XP, which by default, had all throttling software disabled. In fact, to get throttling to work, you had to install a driver that did not come integrated into the shell like the Vista AMD driver is.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *takealready* 
Anyway I went into my BIOS and noticed this..
http://wm56.inbox.com/thumbs/31_e72d...3_oJ.jpg.thumb

These were the setting I had on my pc when I submitted my validation. So cpu-z says I'm at 2.4ghz when according to my BIOS I should be at 2.5ghz. I've noticed unlike my old XP64, Vista throttles my processor and my volts. So I'm assuming at the time I clicked validate my system was running at 2.5GHZ.

Takealready, make sure also in your BIOS you have the "CPU Thermal-Throttling" option _disabled_. This information is located under "Thermal Throttling Options". Set everything to disabled. I have feeling this may have been one of things that was lowering your overclock.

Let us know

Good luck


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *takealready* 
_I've already got the vision of a Drunk Hawk. I dont' want it to get any worse.







_

LOL. Sig quote material!


----------



## pez

Yeah I was so dumbfounded before when Vista was doing that. I was getting pissed b/c my CPU was always at like 1000MHz. I was ***'ing at everything lol.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, Vista throttling is annoying. (Or is it EIST?) I prefer XP's Cool 'n' Quiet or my CrystalCPUID's Crystal-n-Quiet which adjusts the multiplier and voltage solely. (Vista also fiddles with the RAM divider, XP does not.) With Intel's EIST (and maybe Vista natively) the FSB is modulated as well as the multiplier.


----------



## takealready

My power setting in Vista was set to balanced. I changed it to high performance and reset. cpuz tells me I'm at 2.4ghz constantly (thanks for the advice) but it's not saying 2.5ghz.

Looks like I finally got my computer stable at 2.5ghz and 2.6 but it's reporting 2.4GHZ







I also have the cool n quiet off in the bios and the cpu throttling off in my BIOS.

Oh well so I guess on the roster list u can put 2.5-2.6 GHZ stable. But reports 2.4 ghz.


----------



## Blitz6804

Do you notice a difference in benchmarks between 240x10 in the BIOS (showing as 2.4 GHz) and 250x10 in the BIOS (also showing as 2.4 GHz)?


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz, I would really like to know this as well. Good question +1.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *takealready*


Looks like I finally got my computer stable at 2.5ghz and 2.6 but it's reporting 2.4GHZ







I also have the cool n quiet off in the bios and the cpu throttling off in my BIOS.

Oh well so I guess on the roster list u can put 2.5-2.6 GHZ stable. But reports 2.4 ghz.


Takealready, after making changes in your BIOS are you hitting the F10 key (Save)? Sorry for the dumb question. Also make sure "CPU Spread Spectrum Clock", "SATA Spread Spectrum" and "PCIE Spread Spectrum" are disabled. This is under _Miscellaneous Control_ in the BIOS. Have you tried adding any SB and NB voltage?

On a another note, I'm set on a new OC for my 3700+. My goal was to keep the vcore at stock (1.35) and see how far I could get. I settled for 2805Mhz (255*11x). At 260HTT it's completely unstable. So far I've done OCCT on High for 1 hour and Orthos on priority 9 blend for 8 hours. Adjusted my timings from 200Mhz 2.5-3-3-6 2T to 200Mhz 2.5-3-3-5 2T. Running a 14 divider (2805/14). The following below is what I also modified. This is the SPD values for my memory:

2.67volts
Trc = 7
Trfc = 13
Trrd = 2
Twr = 2
Twtr = 2
Max Async Latency = 6ns
Read Preamble Time = 4.5ns

Is anyone familiar with the timing, "Trwt"? I couldn't find any reference on the internet pretaining to that. It's in my BIOS and currently set to 4. Same goes for Tref which is set to 200Mhz. I did a before and after benchmark using the Everest memory tool and there was practically no difference. Perhaps if I increased my frequency there would have been but timings wise nothing really showed









Good luck


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Is anyone familiar with the timing, "Trwt"?


If I remember correctly, TRWT and TRTW are the same, I'll see what I can find...


----------



## takealready

I haven't benchmarked it. I uninstalled my 3D mark 06 a long time ago (It was collecting dust on my hard drive).

Ever since I switched the power setting to high performance + removed the 512MB + left my BIOS at 250 x 10 + left my ram at 240 MHZ:
1. All of my icons on my task try load up instantly

2. When I double click on the icon for Cinema 4D it loads instantly

3. Tomb Raider Underworld demo plays a little smoother (yes I'm playing the demo on two 7300 GT's @ 1024 x 768 @ 85 hz). And it loads faster
_
Conducting my "la muerte (means the death in Spanish)" Test _
5. Running two instances of Nero Burn (which normally uses 100% or my processor when I'm burning a DVD) + Playing one of my missions from Armed Assault + running Windows Media Player + Running HWMonitor (that program causes my processor to stutter) doesn't instantly freeze my system.

*I told you guys I don't overclock, I mutilate. This is a real torture test that I normally run on my system. I don't believe in synthetic benchmarks much. I like real world torture testing.*

So this overclock has passed my torture test. Though it says 2.4ghz I know I'm at 2.5ghz (according to what I set in the bios). Strange things always happen to me in my life. So I guess this is no different.


----------



## takealready

yeah the spectrums are disabled and I do save it when I leave my BIOS.

I didn't know that the system was unstable at 260. only 2/5 time would I be able to set mine at 260 and it will load vista. normally when I change my multiplier my system refuses to load.


----------



## HothBase

Yup, tRTW and tRWT are the same.

http://forums.techpowerup.com/showthread.php?t=6859

Quote:



tRTW/tRWT Timing: Read to Write Delay. When a write command is received, this is the amount of cycles for the command to be executed.


----------



## takealready

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


If I remember correctly, TRWT and TRTW are the same, I'll see what I can find...


I plan on joining the red tide group of yours with my next build. I've been saving up for the Dragon platform using a Phenom II 920 (overclocked to 3.5ghz) + two 4850's + 24" LCD or a 100" projector screen (I'm still undecided).


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


If I remember correctly, TRWT and TRTW are the same, I'll see what I can find...


Hoth, thanks for letting me know. I was kind of wondering if those two were the same. I appreciate the help.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

As per Post 12711, Spread Spectra are turned off.


----------



## HothBase

Hey guys, I just uninstalled my VIA IDE/S-ATA driver package in XP x64 to find out if it would fix a certain problem I was having. Turns out XP won't boot any more, I get half a glimpse of something blue before the PC restarts. I tried safe mode, but I only get the same results.

What I would like to do is restore the old drivers (the ones I used before installing the VIA package), but I have no idea of how to accomplish this when I can't get into windows. I have a floppy with the drivers, not sure if that's of any help?
Since I am dual-booting I was hoping for a solution from inside Vista, could it possibly be done?


----------



## Blitz6804

Turn the PC on. As soon as it POSTs, hit the F8 key repeatedly until you are presented a list of options. Select "boot with the last known good configuration" or something to that effect.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
Hey guys, I just uninstalled my VIA IDE/S-ATA driver package in XP x64 to find out if it would fix a certain problem I was having. Turns out XP won't boot any more, I get half a glimpse of something blue before the PC restarts. I tried safe mode, but I only get the same results.

HothBase, try booting directly off the OS CD and run the recovery console. If you can get the required files on a usb or floppy then you may be able to copy them back over. I've done this a few times with success. It's worth a shot!

Let us know

Good luck


----------



## simfreak47

I gotta split up $110 between a graphics card, a HDD, and a PSU. This should be, interesting.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *simfreak47* 
I gotta split up $110 between a graphics card, a HDD, and a PSU. This should be, interesting.

Simfreak47, just for clarification $110 is the budget you have for the above three items? Is there any particular size hard drive that you are looking for? I'm thinking going with used items may be the best route for your budget.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

In my opinion simfreak47, you would be best served putting the bulk of the money into the PSU. A computer's powersupply is the most critical component (in my opinion). If the power supply is marginal, when you replace the graphics card, you will need another one. The risk of running one long term is apparent when we look at a case like Pioneerisloud's, where an overloaded PSU went down in the flames of glory. He however was fortunate in that it did not damage anything on the way out.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Turn the PC on. As soon as it POSTs, hit the F8 key repeatedly until you are presented a list of options. Select "boot with the last known good configuration" or something to that effect.

Yeah, tried that too. Same thing









Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
HothBase, try booting directly off the OS CD and run the recovery console. If you can get the required files on a usb or floppy then you may be able to copy them back over. I've done this a few times with success. It's worth a shot!

Let us know

Good luck

Alright, will try ASAP.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
Alright, will try ASAP.

Hothbase, if you would like a list of available commands just type "help". Further info about the recover console, it's functions and commands can be found here: http://support.microsoft.com/kb/314058.

Good luck buddy

EDIT:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
In my opinion simfreak47, you would be best served putting the bulk of the money into the PSU. A computer's powersupply is the most critical component (in my opinion). If the power supply is marginal, when you replace the graphics card, you will need another one. The risk of running one long term is apparent when we look at a case like Pioneerisloud's, where an overloaded PSU went down in the flames of glory. He however was fortunate in that it did not damage anything on the way out.

Simfreak, I thought you were already purchasing the Corsair 400CX?


----------



## HothBase

Ok, I enter the repair console and then what?








All I've got is something that kinda looks like the command prompt and says C:WINDOWS (or something like that).
I honestly have no idea what to do. I suppose I'll have to type in some kind of command?

Edit: didn't see you post there thlnk3r.. will read about the commands.


----------



## BlackOmega

$110 budget is rather small for the 3 items you mentioned. I think you should hold off on the GPU and get a good PSU and a decent HDD. Those 2 alone will probably run you around $90 for sale items at the egg. Leavin you $30 for the GPU, which will not buy you anything worth having. 
Hmm..... does your board support SLI? I do have a couple of 6800's laying around collecting dust that Id part with for a relatively good price. Let me know.


----------



## HothBase

Hooray! I fixed it!
Turns out there was a stupidly simple solution. Just booted into Vista and copied the driver file to D:\\WINDOWS\\system32\\drivers\\ (since XP's C:\\ is D:\\ in Vista) and it worked








Dual-boot for the win!

Thanks for the support guys, I appreciate it a lot!


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


In my opinion simfreak47, you would be best served putting the bulk of the money into the PSU. A computer's powersupply is the most critical component (in my opinion). If the power supply is marginal, when you replace the graphics card, you will need another one. The risk of running one long term is apparent when we look at a case like Pioneerisloud's, where an overloaded PSU went down in the flames of glory. He however was fortunate in that it did not damage anything on the way out.


Agreed. I'm done using case power supplies, but the cheaper ones from known companies like Corsair, Antec, etc etc. The 400 watt one I want is $49.99 after rebate. (or $39.99, I don't exactly remember). I think its a good deal, and I'm going after that.

Everything else will _probably_ be off here, [H], or eBay


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


Hooray! I fixed it!
Turns out there was a stupidly simple solution. Just booted into Vista and copied the driver file to D:WINDOWSsystem32drivers (since XP's C: is D: in Vista) and it worked








Dual-boot for the win!


HothBase, I was going to mention that but didn't think it would work. I guess I was wrong









Good job buddy


----------



## tofunater

Here's my validation. Can I be added as a member now?








Stress testing it right now.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *simfreak47*


Agreed. I'm done using case power supplies, but the cheaper ones from known companies like Corsair, Antec, etc etc. The 400 watt one I want is $49.99 after rebate. (or $39.99, I don't exactly remember). I think its a good deal, and I'm going after that.

Everything else will _probably_ be off here, [H], or eBay


another good sorce for cheap computer hardware if you are local to it is www.craigslist.com good luck w/the cheap hardware hunt. I useually go to craigs list for cheap or sometimes even free stuff.

N2G


----------



## Blitz6804

You are now on the off-site roster. I would add you to the on-site, but I lack that ability.

I am curious; what motherboard are you running? You said you would be using an A8N-E (in a prior post and in your system configuration) but the CPU-Z seems to indicate a DFI LanParty UT nF4 SLI-DR Expert.


----------



## N2Gaming

Here is a freebee


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tofunater*


Here's my validation. Can I be added as a member now?








Stress testing it right now.


Tofunater, I've added you to the roster. Welcome









Blitz, can you remove my processors off the "off-site roster". I'll try and supply a new validation of my 3700+ this week.

Thanks


----------



## tofunater

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


You are now on the off-site roster. I would add you to the on-site, but I lack that ability.

I am curious; what motherboard are you running? You said you would be using an A8N-E (in a prior post and in your system configuration) but the CPU-Z seems to indicate a DFI LanParty UT nF4 SLI-DR Expert.


I was never able to fix the problem I had with my a8n-e. I also used sys tool to check the oc'ing capabilities of the board and it maxed out at less than 2.5ghz. I posted a wanted thread and got the dfi from a member. It is an absolutely amazing board, complex, but amazing.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tofunater* 
Here's my validation. Can I be added as a member now?








Stress testing it right now.

Tofu, I just noticed you were running in single channel. You have your ram in slots 1 & 2. You should either have them in slots 1 & 3 or 2 & 4. From what I gather, the yellow slots are higher voltage. And the orange slots are lower, probably stock voltage.
And If Im not mistaken you can actually get the ram to around 3.2V w/o having to move the jumper.
Swap your no1 stick in to the no 4 slot, youll probably see a performance increase.
Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I did not even notice that! Some people have been able to overclock a fuzz higher in dual channel, but this is not a given. The biggest thing is the bandwidth boost you will get going from single channel to dual channel.


----------



## smportis

Gents,

Where do I post to sell a 939 Mobo?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *smportis*


Gents,

Where do I post to sell a 939 Mobo?


Smportis, items that you are wanting to sell can be placed in the For Sale section. Unfortunately you do not have enough reputation to do this. You need at least 35 reps to post in that section. Your best bet would either be on Ebay or Craigslist.

Good luck


----------



## smportis

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Smportis, items that you are wanting to sell can be placed in the For Sale section. Unfortunately you do not have enough reputation to do this. You need at least 35 reps to post in that section. Your best bet would either be on Ebay or Craigslist.

Good luck

Thanks - yes, saw that requirement. Ok then, sniff, I'll take my wares elsewhere.


----------



## pez

*sigh* I have started my (what will seem like a) long journey to my upgrade. I think pio's convinced me to go x3 710 or 720. Either way, it'll clock at least 200mhz, so I'm not worried about that...though still considering saving and getting the kuma. Only about 240 bucks to go







.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


*sigh* I have started my (what will seem like a) long journey to my upgrade. I think pio's convinced me to go x3 710 or 720. Either way, it'll clock at least 200mhz, so I'm not worried about that...though still considering saving and getting the kuma. Only about 240 bucks to go







.


Pez, do you plan on carrying over a lot of your current items to your tri-core upgrade? That should help out a lot with your budget. What exactly do you have mind in terms of a board and memory? Sorry if I missed this in a previous post.

Good luck


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pez, do you plan on carrying over a lot of your current items to your tri-core upgrade? That should help out a lot with your budget. What exactly do you have mind in terms of a board and memory? Sorry if I missed this in a previous post.

Good luck


Yeah, the only thing that's not being carried over is the RAM, Mobo, and CPU that I currently have.

CPU:

Kuma 7750+
or
Phenom II x3 710 or 720

Mobo:

Gigabyte MA770-UD3 (AM3 is already 100% supported on this board, via Gigabyte's website)

RAM:

G.Skill DDR2 1066

I think the timings on the RAM is 5-5-5-15. Lowest I could really find for a good price for DDR2 1066. If I go with the Kuma CPU, then my upgrade will only cost about $215 shipped. But I'm not sure yet, just saving money ATM.


----------



## Blitz6804

A tri-core processor is better than dual-core processor if you can afford it. Also note, if you go with a Phenom II tri-core, you reserve the option to switch to AM3/DDR3 at a later date without needing another processor; just the motherboard and RAM. If you go Kuma, not only would you need an AM3 CPU and DDR3 RAM, but you would also need an AM3 motherboard. Whatever you do, make sure you get an SB750 motherboard. K10s need the extra features of the SB750 over the SB600. I have seen Agenia (quad) and Toliman (tri) cores clock a good 200-300 MHz higher. I would assume the same is true for Kuma (dual) and Deneb (quad/tri) cores.


----------



## Jacka

I think I'm going to wait for a wider range of AM3 processors to be released before going ahead with my upgrade.


----------



## Blitz6804

That is not a bad idea at all Jacka. At present, there are no AM3 CPUs presently available. When they do come out, we would expect launch prices to be higher than what they will be after settling down. (Granted, the X3 720 is rumored to launch at $140... that is not bad for an unlocked, 2.8 GHz tri-core processor.) The biggest advantage to people like me* for waiting on AM3: We would expect the X4 940/920 will decrease in price when the X4 945 et alii release.

*Those of us who JUST got AM2/AM2+ but lacked the money for a quad-core processor at the time of upgrade. We have already seen that the prices of the Agenia quad-cores decrease when the Deneb quad-cores came out.


----------



## Tator Tot

Just as a heads up with the AM3 talk.

I posted in the news, links to AM3 CPUs on Newegg.com/ca

http://www.overclock.net/hardware-ne...720-810-a.html


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey Pez & guys. I just tested COD4 on a clean install with SP2 on xp x64 and only 1 9800GT OC not in sli. I noticed while in online play, the game stutters at times and plays fine at others. This happened at both stock speeds fo 2.8Ghz and at Overclocked speeds of 3.3Ghz.

I only noticed this after I installed the patch 1.6 and 1.7 and xfire. I'm wondering if any one experienced problems with any of the patch's or xfire? I never had a problem with random choppy frames before I loaded the patch's and xfire. I'm wondering If I'm onto something in regards to Pez problems with COD4.

Thank you,

N2G

Edit: I forgot something, let me install the duel core optimizer from AMD







and add another 2 gig of ram so see if that helps.


----------



## Blitz6804

The only time I have heard of random choppiness on Xfire and CoD 4 1.7 has occurred on Pentium 4 Dual cores. My sister (P4D 820 @ 2.8 GHz) and friend (P4D 920 @ 2.8 GHz) both have problems with CoD4, Xfire, and random choppiness. Shut off Xfire, and it works fine. For the record, both are equipped with nVidia cards. 7800 GTX and 8600 GTS respectively.


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks blitz I installed the amd duel core optimizer and it seems to be working much better. I'm only using 2 gig ram and 1 vga card. I'll shut it down in a while to install 2more gig and second vid card and go back to stock 2.8Ghz clock to see how much better it will run vs how it ran not having duel core optimized and so on.

N2G


----------



## Blitz6804

2 GB is more than enough for CoD4. The biggest thing is likely XP without the Dual-Core Optimizer and the Athlon64 driver. Vista has both these drivers pre-installed. Without the DCO and the A64D, you can occasionally experience the "Benny Hill effect."


----------



## TestECull

I get the Benny Hill effect in some older games.









O, and guys....my cousin's now rockin' a 3800+ X2, and I got his sound working, and he's got a 320GB sata drive for gamez!









Boot to the Head's running great as well.


----------



## N2Gaming

Blitz thank you again. Rep+ for you buddy. I am installing the xp a64 driver now.









N2G


----------



## N2Gaming

Sorry for the double post.

I think one of the video cards is bad becuase any time I load a game with sli enabled the video goes haywire. It only happens when I'm using two cards with sli enabled.

Now I know why bfg has the free upgrade programs. They need testers for their hardware...


----------



## Blitz6804

Is it possible that a slot on the motherboard is bad? (Try both cards in Slot 0. Try both cards in Slot 1. If no problems with all four configurations, try a different SLI bridge. Wait, stop, swap bridges first, and THEN do a card shuffle.)


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Wait, stop, swap bridges first, and THEN do a card shuffle.)


























Edit I'll try turning the bridge 180 and if that don't work then I'll try another bridge. Then your saying to try both cards in slot 0 then in slot 1 using only one card at a time of course I presume. Ug I hate this stuff becuase my asus mobo has these stupid little card locks on the cpuside of the vid cards and it makes it hard to unlock the vid card w/o touching the card. I'm to lazy to get out the anti-statick wrist strap and I'm on carpet so I'll just keep it pluged in but off and hold onto the chassis. My guess is your right. I'm using the mobo that was returned to me from Asus on one of the RMA's. Any way here goes another day of diagnostic fun


----------



## tofunater

Thanks for pointing out the ram issue, I'll have to move 'em around.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
A tri-core processor is better than dual-core processor if you can afford it. Also note, if you go with a Phenom II tri-core, you reserve the option to switch to AM3/DDR3 at a later date without needing another processor; just the motherboard and RAM. If you go Kuma, not only would you need an AM3 CPU and DDR3 RAM, but you would also need an AM3 motherboard. Whatever you do, make sure you get an SB750 motherboard. K10s need the extra features of the SB750 over the SB600. I have seen Agenia (quad) and Toliman (tri) cores clock a good 200-300 MHz higher. I would assume the same is true for Kuma (dual) and Deneb (quad/tri) cores.

yeah, I thought about that, but that mobo is my final choice. It might only be SB750, but i'm not expecting the best OC ever. I've seen people getting the 920's up to 3.4 with this board, so I'm confident I could get at least 3ghz with a 710 even.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Hey Pez & guys. I just tested COD4 on a clean install with SP2 on xp x64 and only 1 9800GT OC not in sli. I noticed while in online play, the game stutters at times and plays fine at others. This happened at both stock speeds fo 2.8Ghz and at Overclocked speeds of 3.3Ghz.

I only noticed this after I installed the patch 1.6 and 1.7 and xfire. I'm wondering if any one experienced problems with any of the patch's or xfire? I never had a problem with random choppy frames before I loaded the patch's and xfire. I'm wondering If I'm onto something in regards to Pez problems with COD4.

Thank you,

N2G

Edit: I forgot something, let me install the duel core optimizer from AMD







and add another 2 gig of ram so see if that helps.

LOL, n2, I never had a problem with cod4, it was css. Question for you though. When you tried with one card, did you still have the other card in, but just not SLI enabled? If so, I noticed that too. If you have 2 cards in, but not enabled in game or in nvidia control panel, you'll get quite a bit of choppiness. If you're going to use one card, just take the other out. If you have two in, make sure the game has dual vid card option enabled and make sure it's enabled in nvidia control panel.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
LOL, n2, I never had a problem with cod4, it was css. Question for you though. When you tried with one card, did you still have the other card in, but just not SLI enabled? If so, I noticed that too. If you have 2 cards in, but not enabled in game or in nvidia control panel, you'll get quite a bit of choppiness. If you're going to use one card, just take the other out. If you have two in, make sure the game has dual vid card option enabled and make sure it's enabled in nvidia control panel.

Pez with both sli enabled css was all fudged up I could not see the options tab to select a game. That's how bad it was and the same went for COD4. If I leave both in but disable sli then the games work fine. I was having problems before I even installed the second card but I think that was related to the AMD Duel Core Optimizer and XP x64 drivers. Once I installed those drivers the COD4 game was much better. Now I have to figure this sli garbage out. I think it's either a vid or mobo issue. I hate RMA's


----------



## Blitz6804

Given your Asus history, I suggest a bad motherboard. (Again.)


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Given your Asus history, I suggest a bad motherboard. (Again.)

well I did as pez suggested or or at least what I think he was suggesting. "What the H E double hockie sticks my cat just came in here like a bolt of lightning looked out the window and was gone again just as fast as he entered."







Any way I disabled sli started the COD4 game and enabled two video cards from the graphics options then quit the game and it seemed to turn sli on for me. Next I started the game and it was working just fine. Hmmmmm. Puzzled I am... It must be the power of the force all the 939's thinking about it at the same time.







I will try to max settings and run more game tests.

Edit: I just noticed well kind of not 939 related but oc related any way. I oc'd my fsb to 250 with my multi at 12 and when I booted up and run memtest my system automatically down clocks my ram to ddr500. I'm gonna get back into the bios to see what's going on.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


well I did as pez suggested or or at least what I think he was suggesting. "What the H E double hockie sticks my cat just came in here like a bolt of lightning looked out the window and was gone again just as fast as he entered."







Any way I disabled sli started the COD4 game and enabled two video cards from the graphics options then quit the game and it seemed to turn sli on for me. Next I started the game and it was working just fine. Hmmmmm. Puzzled I am... It must be the power of the force all the 939's thinking about it at the same time.







I will try to max settings and run more game tests.

Edit: I just noticed well kind of not 939 related but oc related any way. I oc'd my fsb to 250 with my multi at 12 and when I booted up and run memtest my system automatically down clocks my ram to ddr500. I'm gonna get back into the bios to see what's going on.


Well, I'm glad I could somewhat help. I'm curious to try XP again on my other HDD since I'm back to one card.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Well, I'm glad I could somewhat help. I'm curious to try XP again on my other HDD since I'm back to one card.


I just found out that my ram was set to like 1/2 it's normal speed. Must have been from a previosly failed oc that I forgont abut







I'm finally getting this rig to purr.







SLI enabled in COD4 FTW and SLI enabled in CSS for the win. Who wants to play ???


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I'm finally getting this rig to purr.







SLI enabled in COD4 FTW and SLI enabled in CSS for the win. Who wants to play ???

N2Gaming, good to hear you got it fixed. I'm curious though, in regards to post #12760 what exactly was the fix? I understand you enabled the two cards in COD but was that the real fix?

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, good to hear you got it fixed. I'm curious though, in regards to post #12760 what exactly was the fix? I understand you enabled the two cards in COD but was that the real fix?

Good luck

think3r if I had to guess becuase I'm really not exactly sure what the cure was then I would have to say disabling sli from with in the nvidia control pannel and then starting COD4 and enabling 2 video cards with in the game is what allowed the sli to start functioning properly.

I tried a combination of things all at once and it seemed to work out for me what ever it was. I am playing right now with every option maxed on a 17" viewsonic crt and loving it the res is only @ 1024 x 768. Although this had nothing to do with the problem I also changed my DDR spd from ddr400 to ddr800 FTW.

Sorry but that's how my problem solving skills are. I normally try like 5 things at a time because I don't have the patience to try different things one at a time.









N2G


----------



## GuardianOdin

Well I have a vacation coming up and watching you guys OC right now is giving me the bug to redo my OC and see if I can't get those RAM timings fixed. I'm tired of running at T2 to stay stable.....blah


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
think3r if I had to guess becuase I'm really not exactly sure what the cure was then I would have to say disabling sli from with in the nvidia control pannel and then starting COD4 and enabling 2 video cards with in the game is what allowed the sli to start functioning properly.

I tried a combination of things all at once and it seemed to work out for me what ever it was. I am playing right now with every option maxed on a 17" viewsonic crt and loving it the res is only @ 1024 x 768. Although this had nothing to do with the problem I also changed my DDR spd from ddr400 to ddr800 FTW.

N2Gaming, thanks for the clarification. I wonder if the same issues occur on Windows XP/Vista 32-bit. Have you tried an older version of the nVidia control panel? The control panel would definitely provide more centralized management but then again if it's not broken then why fix it?

Good luck









EDIT:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Well I have a vacation coming up and watching you guys OC right now is giving me the bug to redo my OC and see if I can't get those RAM timings fixed. I'm tired of running at T2 to stay stable.....blah

Guardian, what model series G.Skill memory are you currently running?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, thanks for the clarification. I wonder if the same issues occur on Windows XP/Vista 32-bit. Have you tried an older version of the nVidia control panel? The control panel would definitely provide more centralized management but then again if it's not broken then why fix it?

Good luck









Yeah why fix it if it aint broke.







It's just wierd is all... I mean I disabled sli from nvdia contoll pannel and then enabled two video cards from with in the game COD4 then exited the game to go back to nvidia controll pannel to enable sli but it seemed as if the game enabled it for me.







Call me crazy







but that's what I think happeded any way.

On a side note I have an oportunity to get a amd 939 a64 4000+ for $40.00 & 3200+ for $30.00 I can prolly talk him down since he has been trying to sell them for a while. He got a x2 4200+ for $30.00







and claims the guy was desperate for money... Heck I believe it at that price. Is it worth it to get the 4000+ for spare and testing purposes, that is if say I can get it for 25-30 bucks???

N2G

Edit: What is Anisotropic Filtering and does it help or hinder performance?


----------



## Blitz6804

It makes a de minimis improvement on image quality. It also has a minor impact on framerates. If you can turn it up, do so. If not, do not be afraid to lose it.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


It makes a de minimis improvement on image quality. It also has a minor impact on framerates. If you can turn it up, do so. If not, do not be afraid to lose it.


Ok Thank's next time I'm in there I'll remember to slide it all the way to the right for up right?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


He got a x2 4200+ for $30.00


----------



## Blitz6804

Right. With the firepower you are packing, at your resolution, you should be able to max out CoD4 with little difficulty.

To do so, in the texture tab:
Set filtering to trilinear
Slider full to the right
Manual
Extra
Extra
Extra

In the main page:
Native Rez
Native refresh rate
Auto or native ratio
Highest setting (4x?)
Your discretion
No (for maximum FPS; yes for best appearance)
Yes to all other Yes/No questions
Highest setting on all others

To see your FPS, open the console and type:

/set cg_drawfps 1

The game limits to 85 FPS by default, to kill that:

/set com_maxfps 0

(Some servers require this be at the default 85.)

If you are pushing way more than your monitor's refresh rate, I suggest forcing higher AA from the nVidia control panel. Given your Rez, 16x is very likely doable. If marginally, I would suggest putting on Vertical Sync. (Called Sync Every Frame.)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


On a side note I have an oportunity to get a amd 939 a64 4000+ for $40.00 & 3200+ for $30.00 I can prolly talk him down since he has been trying to sell them for a while.


N2Gaming, I would negotiate the prices. I purchased a 3200+ on OCN for $12 shipped so just FYI









Good luck

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


It makes a de minimis improvement on image quality. It also has a minor impact on framerates. If you can turn it up, do so. If not, do not be afraid to lose it.


Blitz, I second that. I hardly noticed a difference other then my frames dropping.


----------



## Blitz6804

If you were looking at a static image, or a low-intensity game like Flight Simulator, I would say you would notice it. But with CoD4, Crysis, et cetera, you are moving so fast that you hardly notice the effect. As Wikipedia puts it:

"In 3D computer graphics, anisotropic filtering (abbreviated AF) is a method of enhancing the image quality of textures on surfaces that are at oblique viewing angles with respect to the camera where the projection of the texture (not the polygon or other primitive on which it is rendered) appears to be non-orthogonal."

The image on that page well illustrates the point.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
If you were looking at a static image, or a low-intensity game like Flight Simulator, I would say you would notice it. But with CoD4, Crysis, et cetera, you are moving so fast that you hardly notice the effect. As Wikipedia puts it:

"In 3D computer graphics, anisotropic filtering (abbreviated AF) is a method of enhancing the image quality of textures on surfaces that are at oblique viewing angles with respect to the camera where the projection of the texture (not the polygon or other primitive on which it is rendered) appears to be non-orthogonal."

The image on that page well illustrates the point.

Blitz, thanks for the explanation. That explains why AF didn't offer anything when playing TF2. At times AF would even cause slight pauses during game play.

In any case thanks for that Blitz!

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
If you were looking at a static image, or a low-intensity game like Flight Simulator, I would say you would notice it. But with CoD4, Crysis, et cetera, you are moving so fast that you hardly notice the effect. As Wikipedia puts it:

"In 3D computer graphics, anisotropic filtering (abbreviated AF) is a method of enhancing the image quality of textures on surfaces that are at oblique viewing angles with respect to the camera where the projection of the texture (not the polygon or other primitive on which it is rendered) appears to be non-orthogonal."

The image on that page well illustrates the point.

Looks as if it gives better distance viewing from the pictures displayed left vs right. I just maxed everything out w/res @ 1280 x 1024 I'll report the playability in a few min.


----------



## nategr8ns

with all the talk of upcoming phenom IIs, I'm kind of curious about the current phenoms.
What is the difference between these three?


----------



## pez

Is anyone running their mobo w/ the southbridge fan off (usually a 40mm fan) and just the heatsink? I wanna try and see how my computer runs w/ it off (b/c it's REALLY LOUD) and is about 70%+ of myy systems noise. It has a nice little heatsink under it...like the ones you see on motherboards nowadays. I don't have my the nb/sb voltage any higher than stock, so could I try it, or would I run high risk of causing permanent damage?


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
with all the talk of upcoming phenom IIs, I'm kind of curious about the current phenoms.
What is the difference between these three?

9600B I'm pretty sure means black edition (unlocked multi) and I read that the x3's and x4's that ended in 00 instead of 50's were horrible OCer's and also were known for another problem which I don't know off the top of my head ATM.


----------



## N2Gaming

nvm


----------



## Blitz6804

I have done some testing regards AA and AF. Attached you will find a ZIP containing 9 files.

These files are:
0x AA
2x AA
4x AA
6x AA
8x AA
16x AA
32x AA (all 16x AF)

and:
0x AF
16x AF (all 4x AA)

You can see with AF, the effect is negligible on both FPS and visual presentation.

On the AA, anything past 4x is no longer perceivable by my eye. Anything past 6x starts to hurt FPS. Different cards are different, but 48xx cards are said to have "free FPS" as we can see with 0x, 2x, 4x, and 6x all having the same FPS within a percent or so.


----------



## N2Gaming

heck I'm still stuck on trying to see my fps from console.

I typed in the stuff and hit enter then the tildy key again and I don't know what I'm doing.

On a lighter note my Replacement PSU from thermal take just got here a day early. Yay.







It's brand New in the box with the plastic wrap still on it.


----------



## Blitz6804

nate: the 9x00 Agenas are plagued by the TLB Erratum. Get a 9x50 if you want to have a decent Agena. The 9850 BE is the best bet. The 9950 BE is also nice, but it is kinda pointless to pay extra money for another 0.5x multiplier when it is unlocked anyway.

Pez: the 9600B is NOT a black edition processor. The 9600 is a B2 revision. The 9600B is a B3 revision. As I understand, B3 fixes the TLB erratum. However, a 9650 would, in theory, overclock better than a 9600B despite both being a B3.

As to Southbridge fan: I do not know. The southbridge only controls the PCI/SATA/IDE devices on a 939 system. If the heatsink is good, you could get by with just case flow. If not, perhaps an 80mm fan nearby can replace the 40mm on the sink.


----------



## N2Gaming

my FPS jumps for no reason from 60-30 and I'm not even moving.


----------



## Blitz6804

I just looked up a picture of your motherboard... I think you might be confused. (Borrowing from Newegg):










That big gold fan is your NORTHBRIDGE, not your southbridge. DO NOT UNPLUG THAT FAN. If you do not want the noise, you will need to look into an aftermarket cooler that is silent.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey blitz. I adjusted my oc so that I'm running my ram at ddr920 with cpu at 3220 fsb 230 x14. Now when I play COD4 my FPS are at a constant 60 but the bracketed numbers to the left always change. They go from(45-91) to (48-333,2) I'm assuming the ,2 = sli enabled. Do you know any thing about this?

Edit: some times the , # changes to ,3 not to often but it also goes to ,1

And only 22 xp till I'm lance corporal. LOL


----------



## BlackOmega

Pez,
I've got one of these on my DFI NF4 board and the thing works great. Only 1 issue, its tall, so youd have to see if you can make the bottom PCIe slot the primary slot, if not youll need one of these.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well guys, to those of you looking to upgrade your 939 rigs. Might want to hold off for a month or two. I may be getting rid of all my rigs due to a problem I've come across. So you may or may not be hearing from me still...but keep your eyes peeled in the for sale section if what I'm afraid of happens.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hey blitz. I adjusted my oc so that I'm running my ram at ddr920 with cpu at 3220 fsb 230 x14. Now when I play COD4 my FPS are at a constant 60 but the bracketed numbers to the left always change. They go from(45-91) to (48-333,2) I'm assuming the ,2 = sli enabled. Do you know any thing about this?

Edit: some times the , # changes to ,3 not to often but it also goes to ,1

And only 22 xp till I'm lance corporal. LOL



This is what I'm talking about. Does this look good bad or average???

Thank you,

N2G


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Pez, 
I've got one of these on my DFI NF4 board and the thing works great. Only 1 issue, its tall, so youd have to see if you can make the bottom PCIe slot the primary slot, if not youll need one of these.


Yeah, it's too tall for the dual slot cooler for my 4870 :/

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Well guys, to those of you looking to upgrade your 939 rigs. Might want to hold off for a month or two. I may be getting rid of all my rigs due to a problem I've come across. So you may or may not be hearing from me still...but keep your eyes peeled in the for sale section if what I'm afraid of happens.


What were you thinking is going to happen...?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


This is what I'm talking about. Does this look good bad or average???

Thank you,

N2G











What exactly are we looking for?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Is anyone running their mobo w/ the southbridge fan off (usually a 40mm fan) and just the heatsink? I wanna try and see how my computer runs w/ it off (b/c it's REALLY LOUD) and is about 70%+ of myy systems noise. It has a nice little heatsink under it...like the ones you see on motherboards nowadays. I don't have my the nb/sb voltage any higher than stock, so could I try it, or would I run high risk of causing permanent damage?


Pez, on my GA-K8NSC-939 I run the chipset without a fan or thermal compound. The nForce 3 chipset runs a lot cooler then the nForce 4 so I have a bit of an advantage there. I run the Thermalright HR-05-SLI. I have it bolted down with my own hardware. I have to agree with you though, the chipset cooler/fan on the DFI board is loud.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I have done some testing regards AA and AF. Attached you will find a ZIP containing 9 files.


Blitz, awesome testing results. I checked out the .bmp's and I am surprised on how huge of a hit 16x is from 8x. Almost a 35FPS difference. I virtually could not tell a difference between all the different AA settings. I would settle for 2x AA. I didn't notice a difference in the shots with Full AF and No AF either.

Thanks for sharing with us









Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


my FPS jumps for no reason from 60-30 and I'm not even moving.


N2Gaming, is this during a multiplayer session? If yes then this could be the cause of all the different users that are logged into that game (moving around, shooting, grenades ect). I use to see this issue a lot in TF2. When the game was light on users my frames were great but when it started filling up my frames would fluctuate (up and down).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


This is what I'm talking about. Does this look good bad or average???


Those results (60FPS) look fine to me. Just to clarify what is your resolution and what eye candy settings do you have enabled?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Well guys, to those of you looking to upgrade your 939 rigs. Might want to hold off for a month or two. I may be getting rid of all my rigs due to a problem I've come across. So you may or may not be hearing from me still...but keep your eyes peeled in the for sale section if what I'm afraid of happens.


Pio, hope you get everything worked out buddy. Take it easy









Good luck guys


----------



## N2Gaming

Pez we are looking at my FPS in a online multi player screen shot.

Another OCN member envited me to join him on a specific server and the first time I tried to join I was kicked for not having patch v1.7 so I installed v1.6 & v1.7 then revisted the invited server and right away I was dissapointed with the spuratic freez frames.

It's wierd because it will play normall and then it just locks up for a split second and then back to normal. This server has helicopters, UAV's etc so there is a lot of activity and normally 30+ players.

I usually last about 15-120 seconds.







I'm still not even lance corporal yet.

I have all eye candy pumped up in the game w/res @ 1280 x 1024 the texture settings are maxed and every thing else is set to the highest option except wide angle is @ 16:9

Thank you,

N2G

Edit: the game has locked up and the program ended and tried to send error reports to ms about 3 tmes in the last 24 hours. It just happened to me. I would have mentioned it earlier but I forgot about that. now every time I start the game I get the message the game was not shut down properly do you want to run in safe mode?? My guess is it's related to my present OC.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
It's wierd because it will play normall and then it just locks up for a split second and then back to normal. This server has helicopters, UAV's etc so there is a lot of activity and normally 30+ players.

I have all eye candy pumped up in the game w/res @ 1280 x 1024 the texture settings are maxed and every thing else is set to the highest option except wide angle is @ 16:9

N2Gaming, you have everything set to high so I can imagine some issues showing. Not everything will always run smooth. It should but it won't. That is my opinion...

Turn off AF and see if that helps.

Good luck


----------



## TestECull

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Pez we are looking at my FPS in a online multi player screen shot.

Another OCN member envited me to join him on a specific server and the first time I tried to join I was kicked for not having patch v1.7 so I installed v1.6 & v1.7 then revisted the invited server and right away I was dissapointed with the spuratic freez frames.

It's wierd because it will play normall and then it just locks up for a split second and then back to normal. This server has helicopters, UAV's etc so there is a lot of activity and normally 30+ players.

I usually last about 15-120 seconds.







I'm still not even lance corporal yet.

I have all eye candy pumped up in the game w/res @ 1280 x 1024 the texture settings are maxed and every thing else is set to the highest option except wide angle is @ 16:9

Thank you,

N2G

Edit: the game has locked up and the program ended and tried to send error reports to ms about 3 tmes in the last 24 hours. It just happened to me. I would have mentioned it earlier but I forgot about that. now every time I start the game I get the message the game was not shut down properly do you want to run in safe mode?? My guess is it's related to my present OC.

:\\ Try using a widescreen resolution instead of stretching a 4:3 one. Itt'l look worlds better.

Also, for the record, I nearly max COD4 at 16X12(Tex detail at medium high, 4xaa, 0xaf) without any stuttering, at 1.7. :\\


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, you have everything set to high so I can imagine some issues showing. Not everything will always run smooth. It should but it won't. That is my opinion...

Turn off AF and see if that helps.

Good luck

thank you think3r. I was under the impression from blitz that I should be able to max it but that was with the res set @ 1024 x 768 . I guess I can revert back to 1024 x 768 since I'm playing on a 17" CRT but I'm hoping to play on a 40" LCD w/res @ 1920 x 1280 . So I'm testing on the CRT to make sure I got all the kinks ironed out.

N2G


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


thank you think3r. I was under the impression from blitz that I should be able to max it but that was with the res set @ 1024 x 768 . I guess I can revert back to 1024 x 768 since I'm playing on a 17" CRT but I'm hoping to play on a 40" LCD w/res @ 1920 x 1280 . So I'm testing on the CRT to make sure I got all the kinks ironed out.

N2G


N2Gaming, try what TestECull suggested above.

The point I am trying to get across is all though it's assumed you should be able to max out every little thing that doesn't go to say you'll never run into problems. Everyone has a different setup (hardware, OS, application settings, background processes ect). It can't be guaranteed that you can run completely smooth with everything maxed out.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

If you are running 1280x1024, you should either have it set to 5:4 or Auto if it lacks that option.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, try what TestECull suggested above.

The point I am trying to get across is all though it's assumed you should be able to max out every little thing that doesn't go to say you'll never run into problems. Everyone has a different setup (hardware, OS, application settings, background processes ect). It can't be guaranteed that you can run completely smooth with everything maxed out.

Good luck


Thanks, I'll try to disable any background app's next time I go to that server. When I visted that is the only time I ever experienced this but then again I never loaded any patches and played on servers that have a lot of action 360 degrees around me.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


If you are running 1280x1024, you should either have it set to 5:4 or Auto if it lacks that option.


I'll set it to auto and try again.

Thanks guys,

N2G


----------



## pez

The most FPS lag I get is @ 1680x1050, all in game options maxed out, and I only drop down to maybe 40 FPS, but this is with a server of 22 vs. 22 and as's and heli's coming in constantly. Average fps in that server was 50-60 which is much more playable on an ATI card than an Nvidia card for some odd reason.

N2, just thought of this, what virus program do you have?


----------



## N2Gaming

I don't use them. Not to many available for xp x64 and I'm on a clean install and don't use this rig for email. I don't like virus scanners they take up resorces like crazy...


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I don't use them. Not to many available for xp x64 and I'm on a clean install and don't use this rig for email. I don't like virus scanners they take up resorces like crazy...










Maybe you should check out what I use, Avira AntiVir. It's a free anti-virus program with really good standard and isn't supposed to be as much of a resource hog as most other AVs.
Only downside is that since it's free, it has this annoying ad telling you to upgrade to the Pro version every time you update the definitions, there's an easy way to disable it though.


----------



## BlackOmega

Well I finally got around to swapping the fan over from the CFX to the NF4ultra (yes theyre EXACTLY the same). I reseated the cooler using ICD7 and it seems to be doing ok. 36*C @ idle, but somehow I think the reading for the fan speed is off, its telling me that its running @ 5600 rpm, but I honestly cant hear it over my other fans. And my other fans arent even that loud.

Now to see if there is actually any difference between the 2x and the 16x slots


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well I finally got around to swapping the fan over from the CFX to the NF4ultra (yes theyre EXACTLY the same). I reseated the cooler using ICD7 and it seems to be doing ok. 36*C @ idle, but somehow I think the reading for the fan speed is off, its telling me that its running @ 5600 rpm, but I honestly cant hear it over my other fans. And my other fans arent even that loud.

Now to see if there is actually any difference between the 2x and the 16x slots










I think you may find a little difference. At least I'm hoping you do.


----------



## Blitz6804

5600 RPM is not unreasonable for a 40mm fan.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I don't use them. Not to many available for xp x64 and I'm on a clean install and don't use this rig for email. I don't like virus scanners they take up resorces like crazy...










N2Gaming, you could also give Avast a try. I believe it's supported under Windows Vista 64-bit. Joe and I both run that AV. Resource wise it isn't bad and it's definition file receives an update at least one to two times a day.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


5600 RPM is not unreasonable for a 40mm fan.


Blitz, I agree all though at 5600RPM one would think the fan would be audible.

Good luck guys


----------



## Blitz6804

Depends on the case I would suspect. Bench testing it would be noticeable.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Though my primary machine has its chipset cooled by a passive cooler (the heatpipe system on the A8N32-SLI Deluxe), I do have experience with actively-cooled chipsets with my DFIs. I must be deaf, because I've never heard any of those chipset fans on my machines.









On the other hand, it's possible the noise is being drowned out by one of the monster 120mm x 38mm fans mounted on the CPU cooler...







For sure, though, the monster CPU fans I run are all under-volted (even in the summer), so they're not spinning at full-tilt boogie and damaging my hearing even more.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Though my primary machine has its chipset cooled by a passive cooler (the heatpipe system on the A8N32-SLI Deluxe), I do have experience with actively-cooled chipsets with my DFIs. I must be deaf, because I've never heard any of those chipset fans on my machines.









On the other hand, it's possible the noise is being drowned out by one of the monster 120mm x 38mm fans mounted on the CPU cooler...







For sure, though, the monster CPU fans I run are all under-volted (even in the summer), so they're not spinning at full-tilt boogie and damaging my hearing even more.










txtmstrjoe, You bring up a good point I had not considered as I sit with one sli rig to my left and another to the right. I'm smack dab in the middle of a wind tunnel.







So I will prolly be deaf sometime in the near future.


----------



## thlnk3r

Joe, good point. When I had my Delta 120 I couldn't hear the chipset fan. Without it though it was very audible. According to the BIOS it was around 6000-6200RPM. I had it set to "always on". After a while it get's annoying...for me at least


----------



## -iceblade^

hey guys







. just wanted to ask a quick question.

want to do a pretty hefty upgrade to my other rig, Sally. ie put the PSU and GPU from my rig into her and another HDD. i'm also getting a Opteron 165 for her. but i currently have a 2.2ghz Athlon 64 3400... will the 400mhz lower clock speed negatively impact the PC or will it all be covered for by the extra core? will i be able to max out most if not all games at 1360x768? i ask because it's unlikely that i can OC due to mobo limitations.

spec as she stands now

Athlon 3400+ at 2.2ghz
1gb DDR ram
460 gb HDD
unknown mobo (Packard Bell Orion aka MS 7145)
FSP 315 watt PSU
Radeon 3450


----------



## Bogeyone001

Hey all hows it going..

hope everything has been well

How do i go about creating a dual boot with xp and linux


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *-iceblade^*


hey guys







. just wanted to ask a quick question.

want to do a pretty hefty upgrade to my other rig, Sally. ie put the PSU and GPU from my rig into her and another HDD. i'm also getting a Opteron 165 for her. but i currently have a 2.2ghz Athlon 64 3400... will the 400mhz lower clock speed negatively impact the PC or will it all be covered for by the extra core? will i be able to max out most if not all games at 1360x768? i ask because it's unlikely that i can OC due to mobo limitations.

spec as she stands now

Athlon 3400+ at 2.2ghz
1gb DDR ram
460 gb HDD
unknown mobo (Packard Bell Orion aka MS 7145)
FSP 315 watt PSU
Radeon 3450


-iceblade^, I saw more of a perceptible performance increase from adding a second core than from more clock speed with just one core. A dual-core machine, even at a MHz handicap, will simply *feel* faster, smoother, more responsive than any single-core machine ever could, in my opinion.

Whether or not you'll be able to max out your games at that resolution, though, depends more on the games you play, I would say. But, again, to compare your options (single-core vs. dual-core), I would say the dual-core would perform better with the same video card than the single-core machine.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bogeyone001*


Hey all hows it going..

hope everything has been well

How do i go about creating a dual boot with xp and linux


Bogey! Good to see you back.









How you dual-boot depends on your present HDD situation. The easiest way, by far, is to have a separate HDD for each OS. When I played with Ubuntu a year or so ago, I had a separate HDD for both WinXP and for Ubuntu. WinXP was a pre-existing installation; I installed Ubuntu on my secondary drive. Once Ubuntu was installed, it had added the GRUB Boot Loader, which is essentially a boot manager which allows you to select which OS you want to boot into.

The process is essentially identical if you have a dedicated partition for both WinXP and Linux (as each separate partition is essentially a separate HDD in this context).

I don't know how the process would be different if you install Linux first, though; hopefully someone can fill in that bit of info, if that is your game plan.

Hope this helps!


----------



## -iceblade^

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


-iceblade^, I saw more of a perceptible performance increase from adding a second core than from more clock speed with just one core. A dual-core machine, even at a MHz handicap, will simply *feel* faster, smoother, more responsive than any single-core machine ever could, in my opinion.

Whether or not you'll be able to max out your games at that resolution, though, depends more on the games you play, I would say. But, again, to compare your options (single-core vs. dual-core), I would say the dual-core would perform better with the same video card than the single-core machine.


thanks for this... that is an extremely helpful answer... i tend to play fallout 3, GTA IV, Crysis, Far Cry 2, basically anything...


----------



## StormX2

=(

GUys I dont think my Opty can hold my Attention any more.. 
I am being swayed by the Darkside of the Processors.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *StormX2*


=(

GUys I dont think my Opty can hold my Attention any more.. 
I am being swayed by the Darkside of the Processors.


 i7? If so that wouldnt be a bad choice although it is very expensive. The new AMDs' are very nice and would be leaps and bounds faster than the opty. 
Im planning an upgrade myself but Im going to stick with AMD. At this point I'm still undecided wether to wait it out for a nice AM3 or go with a 940....from what Ive read the 940 is a good overclocker. It seems as though the average OC on those is roughly 3.6/3.7, which is not bad at all. And considering that its quad core would be a tremendous improvement.

I wish you good fortune with what ever endeavours you choose to undertake.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *-iceblade^*


hey guys







. just wanted to ask a quick question.

want to do a pretty hefty upgrade to my other rig, Sally. ie put the PSU and GPU from my rig into her and another HDD. i'm also getting a Opteron 165 for her. but i currently have a 2.2ghz Athlon 64 3400... will the 400mhz lower clock speed negatively impact the PC or will it all be covered for by the extra core? will i be able to max out most if not all games at 1360x768? i ask because it's unlikely that i can OC due to mobo limitations.

spec as she stands now

Athlon 3400+ at 2.2ghz
1gb DDR ram
460 gb HDD
unknown mobo (Packard Bell Orion aka MS 7145)
FSP 315 watt PSU
Radeon 3450


 Ice there will be a noticable speed increase with the addition of the second core. Although, my 3500+ OC'd to 2.6/2.7 does very well in its own right in regards to gaming. Sure load times are a little slower but in game there is no noticable difference from what ive observed. I was actually pleasantly surpised at how well the single core actually does. Its not as good for multitasking or alt/tabbing in to and out of a game. But its not bad either.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *-iceblade^* 
hey guys







. just wanted to ask a quick question.

want to do a pretty hefty upgrade to my other rig, Sally. ie put the PSU and GPU from my rig into her and another HDD. i'm also getting a Opteron 165 for her. but i currently have a 2.2ghz Athlon 64 3400... will the 400mhz lower clock speed negatively impact the PC or will it all be covered for by the extra core? will i be able to max out most if not all games at 1360x768? i ask because it's unlikely that i can OC due to mobo limitations.

spec as she stands now

Athlon 3400+ at 2.2ghz
1gb DDR ram
460 gb HDD
unknown mobo (Packard Bell Orion aka MS 7145)
FSP 315 watt PSU
Radeon 3450

MS-7145 is an MSI board, look on their website, and see if you can find a board with a similar product number. (Maybe MS-7140 or MS-7141) as with most OEM MSI boards, they are the same as their retail counter parts. So you can flash the BIOS and make it a solid board for the most part.
/besides being an MSI board.

Also, with the extra core it will feel much faster, and be much snappier. As for maxing out most game, it depends on what games she plays. I'd get her a HD4670 512mb GDDR3, its a 9600GT of the HD4xxx series. Really rocks out loud and does so very very well.


----------



## FnkDctr

I love my Socket 939. What more could I need?

DFI Lanparty UT SLI-DR
Opteron 180 w/Zalman 9500
2x1gb OCz plat edition
250gb sata, 200gb pata
SB X-Fi gamer
SLI XFX 8800GT Zalman Edition
580W [email protected]
2x120mm case fans
Ultra Torque Case


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FnkDctr*


I love my Socket 939. What more could I need?

DFI Lanparty UT SLI-DR
Opteron 180 w/Zalman 9500
2x1gb OCz plat edition
250gb sata, 200gb pata
SB X-Fi gamer
SLI XFX 8800GT Zalman Edition
580W [email protected]
2x120mm case fans
Ultra Torque Case


Maybe a nice monitor. I don't see one listed in your system specs.


----------



## thlnk3r

Joe, thanks for mentioning "GRUB Boot Loader". I'll remember that for the future if I decide to try a dual boot setup









+1 imaginary rep

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FnkDctr*


I love my Socket 939. What more could I need?


FnkDctr, if you can provide a CPU-Z validation link or screen shot then I can add you to the roster. I'm happy to hear that you love your S939.

Good luck


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FnkDctr*


I love my Socket 939. What more could I need?

DFI Lanparty UT SLI-DR
Opteron 180 w/Zalman 9500
2x1gb OCz plat edition
250gb sata, 200gb pata
SB X-Fi gamer
SLI XFX 8800GT Zalman Edition
580W [email protected]
2x120mm case fans
Ultra Torque Case


Honestly, if you're trying to run SLI 8800GT's....a better PSU (unless we're talking a REALLY good 580w). One thing I've learned, is don't skimp on a PSU.

Update:
Okay guys, evidentally disregard my last message. Certain things are happening between Froggy and myself. At first, it kind of sounded to me like it was over. Well, now that I've had some time to think....it may not be over. So I may still be around and kicking like I should be. I'm not quite as upbeat and cheerful right now....but hopefully soon, the head boob will be back in his full reign







.

PS:
My rig is doing great now. I think I've gone over this before, but it was a RAM sub-timing that I didn't have set correctly that was causing my random lock ups. RAM is all set to Auto (absolutely everything), and my rig is stable as a horse







. I'm actually thinking about SLI'ing 9600GT's on her even.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Honestly, if you're trying to run SLI 8800GT's....a better PSU (unless we're talking a REALLY good 580w). One thing I've learned, is don't skimp on a PSU.

Update:
Okay guys, evidentally disregard my last message. Certain things are happening between Froggy and myself. At first, it kind of sounded to me like it was over. Well, now that I've had some time to think....it may not be over. So I may still be around and kicking like I should be. I'm not quite as upbeat and cheerful right now....but hopefully soon, the head boob will be back in his full reign







.

PS:
My rig is doing great now. I think I've gone over this before, but it was a RAM sub-timing that I didn't have set correctly that was causing my random lock ups. RAM is all set to Auto (absolutely everything), and my rig is stable as a horse







. I'm actually thinking about SLI'ing 9600GT's on her even.

Pio Glad to hear it.

N2G


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FnkDctr* 
I love my Socket 939. What more could I need?

DFI Lanparty UT SLI-DR
Opteron 180 w/Zalman 9500
2x1gb OCz plat edition
250gb sata, 200gb pata
SB X-Fi gamer
SLI XFX 8800GT Zalman Edition
580W [email protected]
2x120mm case fans
Ultra Torque Case

I agree with Pio, you DEFINITELY need a better PSU. Not only is there not enough wattage but there isnt enough amperage either. One my 9600GSOs' call for 26A on the 12v rail. Those are basically the same as 8800GTS from what I gather, so youll definitely need more for SLI.

And Pio, Im glad everything is OK with you







. It sounded rather bleak earlier.

As for my 16x slot, of the benchs that Ive run, (@ stock) it upped my 3Dm03 score about 4000 points, upped my CSS fps 60 fps (194.23 @2.411ghz), and raised my 3Dm06 score about 150 points @ 2.4.
Ill up my clock tommorrow, and run some more, I bet Ill even crack 11000 in 3Dm06


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Honestly, if you're trying to run SLI 8800GT's....a better PSU (unless we're talking a REALLY good 580w). One thing I've learned, is don't skimp on a PSU.

Update:
Okay guys, evidentally disregard my last message. Certain things are happening between Froggy and myself. At first, it kind of sounded to me like it was over. Well, now that I've had some time to think....it may not be over. So I may still be around and kicking like I should be. I'm not quite as upbeat and cheerful right now....but hopefully soon, the head boob will be back in his full reign







.

PS:
My rig is doing great now. I think I've gone over this before, but it was a RAM sub-timing that I didn't have set correctly that was causing my random lock ups. RAM is all set to Auto (absolutely everything), and my rig is stable as a horse







. I'm actually thinking about SLI'ing 9600GT's on her even.


Answer me boiii. What was going on?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I agree with Pio, you DEFINITELY need a better PSU. Not only is there not enough wattage but there isnt enough amperage either. One my 9600GSOs' call for 26A on the 12v rail. Those are basically the same as 8800GTS from what I gather, so youll definitely need more for SLI.

And Pio, Im glad everything is OK with you







. It sounded rather bleak earlier.

As for my 16x slot, of the benchs that Ive run, (@ stock) it upped my 3Dm03 score about 4000 points, upped my CSS fps 60 fps (194.23 @2.411ghz), and raised my 3Dm06 score about 150 points @ 2.4. 
Ill up my clock tommorrow, and run some more, I bet Ill even crack 11000 in 3Dm06










Actually, people over think what they need for wattage on a PSU. 26A is the recommended amperage, but the 98/88GT only really uses about 23A. 2x98/88GT's in a rig like that only loads at about 550W (if that) at 100% load.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I'm actually thinking about SLI'ing 9600GT's on her even.


Do eet do eet do eet!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


26A is the recommended amperage, but the 98/88GT only really uses about 23A.


True, generally GPU manufacturers post higher amperage requirements than you actually need. However, this is because they are telling you the total amperage required assuming you were putting your card onto an average system. According to most websites, a single HD 3850 needs about 30 A on your PSU. ATi's website solely calls for one 75 W connector, and we know the motherboard can supply up to 75 W. Thus, you are only getting 6.25 A load on the +12 V line and 6.25 A load on the 24-pin/8-pin connectors. This is why my TruePowerTrio 650 W could run 3850 Crossfire: One 19 A rail was just for the PCI-E connectors (12.5 A load), one 19 A rail was just for the supplemental power connector.


----------



## StormX2

bah this is driving me insane..

I have 4 x 1 GB of DDR3 Ram to play with, And i really want to play with them.

But Seems that the AM3 platform is somewhat ******ed with DDR3 memory =/

Where it either wouldnt work, or I owul dhave to run this 1600mhz ram at 1066 mhz =(

I would almost rather spend the monye on X58 for SLI or Xfire in the future, have the ability to play with this ram, and then throw it out for a sweet 6gb kit.

Believe me guys, This kills me to think of going to Intel.. But where is the opty 165 of today???


----------



## nategr8ns

sell the ram on ebay?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *StormX2*


bah this is driving me insane..

I have 4 x 1 GB of DDR3 Ram to play with, And i really want to play with them.

But Seems that the AM3 platform is somewhat ******ed with DDR3 memory =/

Where it either wouldnt work, or I owul dhave to run this 1600mhz ram at 1066 mhz =(

I would almost rather spend the monye on X58 for SLI or Xfire in the future, have the ability to play with this ram, and then throw it out for a sweet 6gb kit.

Believe me guys, This kills me to think of going to Intel.. But where is the opty 165 of today???


Well the Phenom II 940 is am2+ that can be run on a am3 boards and it has a stock pd of 3.0 ghz and is reported to be able to overclock close to 4.0 on air so that may be as close to the opty 165 of yester day that AMD offers. Hope this helps

N2G


----------



## Blitz6804

According to the tech documents I have seen, the highest divider available to AM3 is, at present, is DDR3-1333 or DDR2-1066. Thus, if you want them to run at DDR3-1600, you would set your 1333 divider and crank up the FSB. A 14x multi should require 285 MHz. A 13x multi should require 245. A 12x multi should require 270. Et cetera.

N2Gaming: The Phenom II 940 is AM2+. It cannot run on AM3 motherboards as it lacks a DDR3 memory controller. The Phenom II 945 will be the same speed as the 940, but will be pinned for the AM3 socket.


----------



## thlnk3r

In regards to the Phenom II talk, the highest OC I have seen on air was 4.1Ghz (HondaGuy). This was with 1.5xx volts. Other then that I have only see maybe two or three more 4Ghz overclocks with 1.5+ volts. The average OC ranges from 3.6 to 3.8. So far it's all about the stepping.

Use this thread for reference: http://www.overclock.net/amd-cpus/44...-database.html

Good luck guys


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


According to the tech documents I have seen, the highest divider available to AM3 is, at present, is DDR3-1333 or DDR2-1066. Thus, if you want them to run at DDR3-1600, you would set your 1333 divider and crank up the FSB. A 14x multi should require 285 MHz. A 13x multi should require 245. A 12x multi should require 270. Et cetera.

N2Gaming: The Phenom II 940 is AM2+. It cannot run on AM3 motherboards as it lacks a DDR3 memory controller. The Phenom II 945 will be the same speed as the 940, but will be pinned for the AM3 socket.


Really I was under the impression that it could becuase was desined to be backward compatible. I know the AM3 chips have both AM2+ & AM3 memory controllers. For some reason I was thinking the Phenom II was the same...

EDIT:

Memory Controller: Supports up to DDR2-1066 and DDR3-1800 up to 17.1GB/sec one HT3.0 link, 1.8GHz 16 bit in / 16 bit out, up to 14.4GB/sec 940 pin grid array Vcore between 0.875-1.5V Max 125W TDP made in Fab 36, Dresden, Germany


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes, a Phenom II 945 can go in an AM2+ or an AM3 board. This is because with 938 pins, it can fit in a 938-hole socket or a 940-hole socket. The Phenom II 940 is an AM2+ processor and can only fit in socket AM2+. It is impossible to put a CPU with 940 pins into a socket that only has 938 holes. Further, at present, all AM3 boards are supposedly going to only support DDR3. Since the AM2+ CPU lacks such a controller, it cannot, in theory, run on such a board. If some budget AM3 boards come out with slots keyed for DDR2 we can test it, but supposedly, an AM2+ CPU will not fit in an AM3 socket.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


For some reason I was thinking the Phenom II was the same...


N2Gaming, later on Phenom II (AM3) will have support for both memory controllers. For now the 920/940 only supports DDR2.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Yes, a Phenom II 945 can go in an AM2+ or an AM3 board. This is because with 938 pins, it can fit in a 938-hole socket or a 940-hole socket. The Phenom II 940 is an AM2+ processor and can only fit in socket AM2+. It is impossible to put a CPU with 940 pins into a socket that only has 938 holes. Further, at present, all AM3 boards are supposedly going to only support DDR3. Since the AM2+ CPU lacks such a controller, it cannot, in theory, run on such a board. If some budget AM3 boards come out with slots keyed for DDR2 we can test it, but supposedly, an AM2+ CPU will not fit in an AM3 socket.


OK that make better sense to me. Thanks blitz

N2G

Hey blitz did you use nates old Avatar??? Joking Your avatar is cool BTW


----------



## Blitz6804

Nah man... my avatar is always diametrically opposed to Txtmstrjoe's. Well, not always, but usually. I came up with this one when he swung to Scorpion a long time ago. Nate's avatar was an animated Jax; we used to have a real theme going on in this club.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Nah man... my avatar is always diametrically opposed to Txtmstrjoe's. Well, not always, but usually. I came up with this one when he swung to Scorpion a long time ago. Nate's avatar was an animated Jax; we used to have a real theme going on in this club.


LOL a real "theam" short for theme and team well I could have contributed if I had only known. I gueass I was not in the little circle of Avatar dude's







I have always been out side of the any circle...


----------



## simfreak47

Upgraded my rig! All I need is a PSU!!! (I'm on my laptop now)


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


OK that make better sense to me. Thanks blitz

N2G

Hey blitz did you use nates old Avatar??? Joking Your avatar is cool BTW


actually him and joe had them first









we were rockin' them for a while


----------



## BlackOmega

Haha you guys gotta check this OC on my 6800s' out.
6800s' GPUZ Validation.

Not bad little cards I have to say.


----------



## Blitz6804

Wow, that is an insane GDDR overclock. Dare I ask if they are stable? If so, what sort of FPS increase do you get versus stock?


----------



## BlackOmega

Theyre totally stable at that speed. I actually got the core to 440, but temps got a little out of hand and it started artifacting. Not even really that bad. Just a white blip here and there during furmark. Same with the memory, I tested it @ 739 but it artifacted also.

As for frame rate increase, not even really sure. I put a completely fresh install on the rig I was getting the appraisal on. So the only thing I have installed is BF1942, and it flies through that everything @ max @ 1600x1200.

I might download 3dm03 to see how much of a difference there really is. In the meanwhile I'll d/l css and see what my average FPS is. Im curious as how these will do @ 1680x1050 16xAA/AF with everything set to high as compared to my other cards.


----------



## Blitz6804

It should be easy to test. With BF1942 open, press ~ to pull up the console. Type "fps 1" (without quotes) and it should display the FPS. (You guessed it; "fps 0" turns that back off and ~ also closes the console.) Now you can compare the FPS before and after the overclock.


----------



## BlackOmega

Ill give it a try. I think I tried fps_1


----------



## Blitz6804

I do not know if there will be an appreciable difference. The game is 6 years old; there might be a frame limiter somewhere we are not aware of.


----------



## BlackOmega

hmm.... well even @ stock settings it seems to be capped @ 100fps. Do you know if there is a command that will let me increase it? BTW I played on Battle of Brittain, if you think another map might make a difference.


----------



## Blitz6804

There does not appear to be a way to remove that. Try pulling one card and/or disabling a CPU core to bring the FPS down.

EDIT: I lie. I found something called "game.lockfps 0" that seems to do it. However, I do not know if you must modify the config file or somehow do it from the console.


----------



## BlackOmega

K it'll be a minute, installing HL2/CSS ATM. Thank god I don't have to download them, it takes 3 hours to DL css @ 512 :O


----------



## N2Gaming

I just got my A8N32 SLI Deluxe mobo today.







I'll post some pics in a bit

Edit Pics


----------



## pez

Slightly off topic guys....but since you're talking of BF, what's it called when you search for those mods that allow those games to run in widescreen resolutions?

Nice N2, now you can put those two cards to their full potential







. That board is x16/x16 isn't it? Hopefully your CPU can stay 3.0+ on that board







.

EDIT: Fail, you already have a nice rig. LOL. *sigh*


----------



## N2Gaming

so far the only thing I can find wrong w/the mobo is the scratched and bent heat sink w/heat pipes and a scratch over a couple of traces next to a screw hole on the board.

I hope it don't cause any proplems.


----------



## nategr8ns

it shouldn't...
does the board power up?


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks Nate, I have not tried it yet just dwn ld'd the user manual will read first before I do anything stupid wit it.









N2G

Edit: Sorry guys, I know I did it for the second time today.

I got nate and blitz mixed up


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thanks blitz, I have not tried it yet just dwn ld'd the user manual will read first before I do anything stupid wit it.









N2G



Its a fairly easy board to set up. 24 pin power connector, 4 pin plug and a molex if youre going to run 2 cards. Even if the cards have PCIe power connectors, hook the ez-plug (molex) up. It doesnt hurt anything. It might actually make it more stable. 
And of course clear/reset the cmos by popping the battery out. I usually leave them out while I'm installing the board. 
Also, check to see what BIOS revision you have. Theres some new ones out, theres even a beta, I personally dont like using non official software.

Also, when youre overclocking, you wont see a HT mutiplier, they call it K8 to NB. Another thing, these boards automatically set CPUs' to 1.39v. You can change this in the BIOS. Set it to 1.15 then enable the overvolt, it raises voltage by 200mv, it also turns on the 8 phase power management.
Another thing dont skip the initial setup, Ive had it lead to all sorts of problems.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Slightly off topic guys....but since you're talking of BF, what's it called when you search for those mods that allow those games to run in widescreen resolutions?


Pez, not sure if the same applies for BF but for BF2 all you have to do is modify the shortcut and change the target line. Hit the space bar after everything and enter in, "+widescreen 1 +szx 1680 +szy 1050". That's the resolution for a 22" widescreen display. I did this for Project Reality mod and it worked fine. As far as I know BF2 doesn't support native wide screen resolutions. There is however an application that is called "widescreen fixer". That apparently forces widescreen in the game. Your BF2 client needs to be version 1.32 or higher in order for it to be supported under PB. I'd recommend modifying the shortcut since it's the easiest route.

N2Gaming, fire her up and see if it posts









Good luck guys


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Its a fairly easy board to set up. 24 pin power connector, 4 pin plug and a molex if youre going to run 2 cards. Even if the cards have PCIe power connectors, hook the ez-plug (molex) up. It doesnt hurt anything. It might actually make it more stable. 
And of course clear/reset the cmos by popping the battery out. I usually leave them out while I'm installing the board. 
Also, check to see what BIOS revision you have. Theres some new ones out, theres even a beta, I personally dont like using non official software.

Also, when youre overclocking, you wont see a HT mutiplier, they call it K8 to NB. Another thing, these boards automatically set CPUs' to 1.39v. You can change this in the BIOS. Set it to 1.15 then enable the overvolt, it raises voltage by 200mv, it also turns on the 8 phase power management.
Another thing dont skip the initial setup, Ive had it lead to all sorts of problems.


Thanks B O. So what is the initial set up??? clear cmos use all three power plugs on the board, use the 8 phase power option in bios by overvolting and what else.???

I only got the boarda and nothing else.









N2G

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, fire her up and see if it posts










I'm working on that right now









Edit:

She's alive, it posted first try. So I now can breath a sigh of relief... but I still have a lot of testing before I can trullysay that I got a good deal...



















































:drunk en:


































The pic w//the mobo and fan is with in running but you can't tell. you can see the blue led on the fan but the camera takes really fast snaps so the fan looks like it's standing still but trust me its burning air...


----------



## Blitz6804

N2Gaming: You might want to talk to Pioneerisloud about his experiences with this board. If I remember right, the newer version of the BIOS is incompatible with Vista SP1. When he had Vista R, he could do 3.1 no problem. When he had installed SP1, he could not stabilize above 2.8 GHz. Rolling the BIOS to an older version regained stability with SP1. Here is his thread on the issue. Txtmstrjoe's board has no such issue, but he is running XP x64 instead of Vista x64.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pez, not sure if the same applies for BF but for BF2 all you have to do is modify the shortcut and change the target line. Hit the space bar after everything and enter in, "+widescreen 1 +szx 1680 +szy 1050". That's the resolution for a 22" widescreen display. I did this for Project Reality mod and it worked fine. As far as I know BF2 doesn't support native wide screen resolutions. There is however an application that is called "widescreen fixer". That apparently forces widescreen in the game. Your BF2 client needs to be version 1.32 or higher in order for it to be supported under PB. I'd recommend modifying the shortcut since it's the easiest route.

N2Gaming, fire her up and see if it posts









Good luck guys


so that command line works for BF2? If so, that makes life a lot easier lol.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thanks B O. So what is the initial set up??? clear cmos use all three power plugs on the board, use the 8 phase power option in bios by overvolting and what else.???

I only got the board and nothing else.











Well your going to need drivers for the board. I wonder if I can just upload them here









At any rate, get drivers for the Marvell Yukon ethernet driver, get the 15.23 Nforce4 SLI x16 for AMD driver, Realtek AC'97 audio driver, and you might even be able to downlaod PCprobe, Asus update (BIOS updater) from Asuses website. 
Ill check to see if I can upload the files here in a little bit I gotta go run some errands first.

As for my results with the x16 slot didnt make as much difference as I would've hoped. 
So heres my new results running @ 3003mhz, 
3Dmark06 - 11125, CS:S @ 1680x1050 16xQAA/AF 218.20 FPS, Crysis @ 1680x1050 High 16xQAA 29.16, 3Dmark03 ~44,000.

So all in all not a bad improvement but not nearly as much as I was hoping for.
Ive dialed it back to 2.9 again due to heat @ 3003 as I have to run it @ 1.45v, the XP120 just isnt cutting the mustard. You guys think TEC coolers are worth the money? Or is liquid cooling considerably better?


----------



## Blitz6804

All the numbers you have listed seem about right for the hardware you have.

TECs are a mixed bag. They only appear to help in really high-heat situations like an Intel Quad Core. If not, you would be better served just using straight-up water.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
N2Gaming: You might want to talk to Pioneerisloud about his experiences with this board. If I remember right, the newer version of the BIOS is incompatible with Vista SP1. When he had Vista R, he could do 3.1 no problem. When he had installed SP1, he could not stabilize above 2.8 GHz. Rolling the BIOS to an older version regained stability with SP1. Here is his thread on the issue. Txtmstrjoe's board has no such issue, but he is running *XP x64* instead of Vista x64.

Interesting notes on the BIOS incompatibility issues. I myself have never read about that anywhere.

By the way, wrong on the OS info I'm running. I've got plain ol' reliable WinXP Home 32-bit.

(I tend to avoid things that give me headaches, you see...)


----------



## Blitz6804

My mistake. I recall us discussing XP x64, so that is why I thought you had 64-bit.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

N2G, PM me. I might be able to help you out with the software disk for the A8N32-SLI Deluxe.


----------



## nategr8ns

Congrats N2! I'm jealous







.

I'm thinking of reselling my DFI board on ebay to see if somebody else who knows how to repair it wants it... It powers up fine...
I may try it again with a PCI video card, maybe the pci-e is the problem? I don't know why I didn't think of that earlier







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
Congrats N2! I'm jealous







.

I'm thinking of reselling my DFI board on ebay to see if somebody else who knows how to repair it wants it... It powers up fine...
I may try it again with a PCI video card, maybe the pci-e is the problem? I don't know why I didn't think of that earlier







.

Thanks nate, I only use the pci card for testing the post. That way if the board is bad and I loose a card it's not one of my more expensive cards.







I will test all ports to make sure the mobo is good. Hm maybe I'll have to get a sound card at fry's with a 4x or 1x pcie so that I can test that slot as well. I don't have any 4or1x pcie cards. Any suggestions on that one???

thank you,

N2G


----------



## BlackOmega

The 1x sound cards seem kind of like a waste. The onboard audio really isnt that bad. Its no XFi or anything, but it decent. If you get static noise while using disable the PC speaker through the audio properties.

If you do get a sound card get that refurbushed extreme music, theyre like $45.

New avatar what you guys think


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


The 1x sound cards seem kind of like a waste. The onboard audio really isnt that bad. Its no XFi or anything, but it decent. If you get static noise while using disable the PC speaker through the audio properties.

If you do get a sound card get that refurbushed extreme music, theyre like $45.

New avatar what you guys think










Yeah I'm not sure what kind of card I'll get be it sound or wifi "which brings up another question" or someting else. It's mostly just gonna be used for testing purposes to test the 1x 4x pcie port to make sure it's working. Unless I get something like a x-fi extreame gamer or something then I really don't plan on spending any real dough on the card.

The other question is this. They made a wifi edition of this board. I have an extra USB RTL8187L wifi riser card that I removed from one of my other RMA'd M2N32 wifi's but the usb configuration is not exactely the same. I'm wondering if I can mod the usb riser to get the wifi working on this board and would it be worth it???

Thanks,

N2G


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Yeah I'm not sure what kind of card I'll get be it sound or wifi "which brings up another question" or someting else. It's mostly just gonna be used for testing purposes to test the 1x 4x pcie port to make sure it's working. Unless I get something like a x-fi extreame gamer or something then I really don't plan on spending any real dough on the card.

The other question is this. They made a wifi edition of this board. I have an extra USB RTL8187L wifi riser card that I removed from one of my other RMA'd M2N32 wifi's but the usb configuration is not exactely the same. I'm wondering if I can mod the usb riser to get the wifi working on this board and would it be worth it???

Thanks,

N2G


 Im not sure what the difference was. I thought it came with an aerial or something








As for modding it, if you feel comfortable enough in doing it go for it. DO you need it or are just experimenting? If you dont need it, then why even bother. Aside from that, most modems have wifi built right in to them. At least the ones Ive had through Comcrap and AT&T both had, right along with a built in router.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Im not sure what the difference was. I thought it came with an aerial or something








As for modding it, if you feel comfortable enough in doing it go for it. DO you need it or are just experimenting? If you dont need it, then why even bother. Aside from that, most modems have wifi built right in to them. At least the ones Ive had through Comcrap and AT&T both had, right along with a built in router.


Just trying to see if I can get this system up and running with the parts I have laying around. The pin configuration on the board and the wifi riser card are off by one pin so I'd rather mod the riser then the card but then again maybe I can make an adaptor for the riser so that I don't have to modify either one.

Thanks for getting me thinking about it and coming up with a better solution. I'll post my finidings if and when I ever get around to it.









N2G


----------



## Blitz6804

Personally, I think the best solution is to just run a patch cable. The only time I ever advocate a wireless network is if wiring the place is strictly impossible. (Such as a leased tenement.) The added latency and decreased speed of wireless is hardly worth the hassle of making any sort of adapter in my opinion.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Personally, I think the best solution is to just run a patch cable. The only time I ever advocate a wireless network is if wiring the place is strictly impossible. (Such as a leased tenement.) The added latency and decreased speed of wireless is hardly worth the hassle of making any sort of adapter in my opinion.


Well the wifi speed is at 1 gig if I'm not mistaken and it's wifi wireless G so the speeds are not even noticeably different from my experience downloading large files or playing games. The upload/download spds are the same wired or wifi form what I can tell any way.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Personally, I think the best solution is to just run a patch cable. []bThe only time I ever advocate a wireless network is if wiring the place is strictly impossible.[/b] (Such as a leased tenement.) The added latency and decreased speed of wireless is hardly worth the hassle of making any sort of adapter in my opinion.


 I'm with you on that. Wireless networks seem like a great big security breach to me. That and if you forget to set up a PW anyone can use it. Did that once and for a day or so I as wondering why I was laggin in game. Come to find out my neighbor was downloading porn or some crap.


----------



## N2Gaming

well I set my wifi router up so that it does not broadcast the signal. I have to manually plug my ssid & Key in before it will work or even detect the router. When I do a wifi search my router does not show up in the list but I can see other peoples routers around me in the neighborhood.









So unless you know my SSID and Key it will be more difficult for any one to use my internet. Plus I turn my router off any time I put the computer to sleep, basically all day long. Then I turn it back on right b4 I wake up my pc. So there is little chance of my broadband being hijacked. I'm not saying it can't happen but I have taken several steps to eliminate as much threat's as possible in those regards.

Thanks for your comments,

N2G


----------



## Blitz6804

I have not tried Wireless-N, so I cannot attest to that. However, I can speak for Super-G and older. Super-G is 108 Mbps. Wireless-G is 54 Mbps. Wireless-A is as well. Wireless-B is 11 Mbps.

Compare this to wired internet. Ethernet (Base 10T) runs at 10 Mbps. Fast Ethernet (Base 100T) runs at 100 Mbps. Lastly, Gigabit Ethernet (Base 1000T), as the name implies, runs at 1000 Mbps. This means, technically, Super-G is faster than Fast Ethernet. (Which is what most modern networks are equipped with. Even if your motherboard has Gigabit Ethernet, I can guarantee your router does not.)

However, in my experience, this is not true. It might just be something with the way the packets get shuffled, but file transfers between PCs are always faster when they are both wired (Base 100T) versus one wired and the other on Super-G. Before anyone suggests difference, the laptop on Super-G is sitting about 2 feet away from the router.

Wired internet is secure; no-one can ever packet sniff. Wireless, even with a WEP/WPA, can still be compromised.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I have not tried Wireless-N, so I cannot attest to that. However, I can speak for Super-G and older. Super-G is 108 Mbps. Wireless-G is 54 Mbps. Wireless-A is as well. Wireless-B is 11 Mbps.

Compare this to wired internet. Ethernet (Base 10T) runs at 10 Mbps. Fast Ethernet (Base 100T) runs at 100 Mbps. Lastly, Gigabit Ethernet (Base 1000T), as the name implies, runs at 1000 Mbps. This means, technically, Super-G is faster than Fast Ethernet. (Which is what most modern networks are equipped with. Even if your motherboard has Gigabit Ethernet, I can guarantee your router does not.)

However, in my experience, this is not true. It might just be something with the way the packets get shuffled, but file transfers between PCs are always faster when they are both wired (Base 100T) versus one wired and the other on Super-G. Before anyone suggests difference, the laptop on Super-G is sitting about 2 feet away from the router.

Wired internet is secure; no-one can ever packet sniff. Wireless, even with a WEP/WPA, can still be compromised.

OK your point is duly noted.









I only use wireless on my gaming and internet browising task's. I never do online purchases or banking on the wireless and I am aware that there is many hackers out there who love to hack. I say give the hackers a hackie sack.


----------



## Blitz6804

I dislike wireless for gaming, especially if there is a bunch of stuff between me and the router. The two biggest reasons to have wired internet: gaming and file transfer. If you have it just as a "webbook" or IM platform, the disadvantages of wireless are not that apparent. When you are accessing a site with your 5 Mbps internet, what do you care that the router is only 11 MBps? When you are transferring a 550 MB movie file between computers though, you had better believe you want the fastest you can get your fingers on. When you are gaming, you want as low as ping as possible. You do not care as much if you have to wait another 55 ms before you can connect to Google, but you had better believe that 55 ms makes the difference between your headshot and getting shot.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I dislike wireless for gaming, especially if there is a bunch of stuff between me and the router. The two biggest reasons to have wired internet: gaming and file transfer. If you have it just as a "webbook" or IM platform, the disadvantages of wireless are not that apparent. When you are accessing a site with your 5 Mbps internet, what do you care that the router is only 11 MBps? When you are transferring a 550 MB movie file between computers though, you had better believe you want the fastest you can get your fingers on. When you are gaming, you want as low as ping as possible. You do not care as much if you have to wait another 55 ms before you can connect to Google, but you had better believe that 55 ms makes the difference between your headshot and getting shot.

Well if I was not as slow as molasis then I would prolly worry about spd.

Moving on now. I have a different question about a mouse. I'm wondering if any one has any experience with this mouse and if it is any good for gaming or if there is better to be had at that price line???

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-178-_-Product

Thanks,

N2G


----------



## Blitz6804

I had the MX-510; different color, identical otherwise. In fact, I had three of them. They are a good optical mouse with a nice assortment of buttons. With the software, they are fully programmable. The software is non-invasive. I eventually replaced two of them with G5 laser mice, but I still keep an MX-510 on hand.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I had the MX-510; different color, identical otherwise. In fact, I had three of them. They are a good optical mouse with a nice assortment of buttons. With the software, they are fully programmable. The software is non-invasive. I eventually replaced two of them with G5 laser mice, but I still keep an MX-510 on hand.

Thanks. I'm looking around and making several post with regards to this becuase I want as much feed back as possible before clicking on the it's too late you just bought it button









N2G


----------



## Hueristic

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH HHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I can't wait to catch up on this thread!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

GET THAT BOARD OFF THAT BAG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

ANTI_STATIC MBAGS ARE CONDUCTIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH HHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I can't wait to catch up on this thread!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

GET THAT BOARD OFF THAT BAG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

ANTI_STATIC MBAGS ARE CONDUCTIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!


OH right, thanks for that bro. I did not know that.

N2G


----------



## Blitz6804

Hueristic: I never knew the bags were conductive; I never booted a board on a bag for fear of it melting.

N2Gaming: Did I miss it? What topless CPU is mounted in that board?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Hueristic: I never knew the bags were conductive; I never booted a board on a bag for fear of it melting.

N2Gaming: Did I miss it? What topless CPU is mounted in that board?

blitz, yup you must have missed it. I posted pics and everything. I originally had a 3500+ in my dfi sli dr and I asked you all if I would have to update my bios to run an opty 180 that I was thinking about getting at tiger. then I damaged the opty 180 by dropping it right after I got it.







after the opty 180 lived past the surgery I decided to delid the 3500+ for practice and use on one of the dfi expert boards I got on ebay for like $15.00 delivered. Once I delided it and made it throught w/o a hitch I decided deliding is not my cup of tea. Any how you can search for the post's if you wish. I have pictures of the process from when I delided it.

N2G


----------



## pez

ATI claims 20% increase w/ warhead, I shall go see.


----------



## Blitz6804

(To put that in context, Pez is referring to CCC 9.2. The release notes claim there is *up to* a 20% improvement in Crysis and Crysis Warhead on CPU-Bound systems.)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

BlackOmega, I'm digging Reptile!









Or, as my avatar has been heard to say, "Toasty!"









Since a friendly stalker







reminded me on chat earlier today, I hope to be able to summon enough gumption and time tomorrow and work on a machine or two (or three). At the very least, I know that I owe some of y'alls some photos of my H20 parts, so if I could keep the work devils at bay for an hour or so tomorrow I'll be able to post some hardware pr0n.


----------



## pez

Hmmm seems I got at least a 10% increase form the drivers. Good job ATI.


----------



## N2Gaming

Well I'm starting the win 7 32 bit install now on the A8N32 mobo.

So far this is how It's going.

PCI slot works
PCIe# x16 #1 works
IDE masater channel works w/WD HDD 10 gig IDE
SATA #1 channel works w/cd/dvd rom
and installing os is going good so far.









N2G


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Well I'm starting the win 7 32 bit install now on the A8N32 mobo.

So far this is how It's going.

PCI slot works
PCIe# x16 #1 works
IDE masater channel works w/WD HDD 10 gig IDE
SATA #1 channel works w/cd/dvd rom
and installing os is going good so far.









N2G


Okay, I missed what BIOS you're running. If you plan to run Vista or Windows 7, I'd suggest you run 1303 BIOS. Also, you will have a VERY fun time with that OCZ memory. Its not on the Qualified Vendor List for the motherboard, so its a hit or miss kit of RAM with that motherboard....I know, I've ran OCZ Platinums before...and notice I'm not anymore







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Okay, I missed what BIOS you're running. If you plan to run Vista or Windows 7, I'd suggest you run 1303 BIOS. Also, you will have a VERY fun time with that OCZ memory. Its not on the Qualified Vendor List for the motherboard, so its a hit or miss kit of RAM with that motherboard....I know, I've ran OCZ Platinums before...and notice I'm not anymore







.

Thanks Pio, So far so good. Win 7 32 bit installed w/o any hickups on the first try. I set the cpu volts to 1.30 and ram to ddr400 all timings on auto except with 1T command rate cpu is at stock 200x11. IDK what bios I have yet I have hot taken the time to look at that yet. I guess it don't matter at this point win 7 is happy so far. I'm watching videos already on youtube.









N2G


----------



## Blitz6804

I am curious... why are you undervolting the processor? The 3500+ ranges from 1.350 V for the E4 revision all the way up to 1.500 V for the CG revision.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I am curious... why are you undervolting the processor? The 3500+ ranges from 1.350 V for the E4 stepping all the way up to 1.500 V for the CG stepping.

Well I'm not overclocking it ATM and it really don't need a whole lot of juice to keep it going so I figured that was a good starting point for setting the CoreV in the bios


----------



## Blitz6804

The better argument would be to just leave it at 1.350 V and then flip on the Cool 'n' Quiet. It will drop the CPU to 5x200 at 1.100 V or 9x200 at 1.250 V as not needed.


----------



## N2Gaming

OK I have never tried cool n quiet. thanks for the tip


----------



## Blitz6804

It must be enabled in the BIOS and the OS. In XP, you go to power options and pick "minimal power management." In Vista, you go to power options and pick anything other than "maximum performance."


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
It must be enabled in the BIOS and the OS. In XP, you go to power options and pick "minimal power management." In Vista, you go to power options and pick anything other than "maximum performance."

Thank you


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


well I set my wifi router up so that it does not broadcast the signal. I have to manually plug my ssid & Key in before it will work or even detect the router. When I do a wifi search my router does not show up in the list but I can see other peoples routers around me in the neighborhood.










there are programs (legal AFAIK) that show unbroadcasted SSIDs.


----------



## N2Gaming

I did not know that. Thank you Nate.


----------



## Blitz6804

I would never run a wireless router without WEP or WPA. As Nate has said, even with an unbroadcasted SSID, it is possible to packetsniff your way in. It is a good idea too to change WEP a few times a month.


----------



## Blitz6804

*Sits in the corner and starts whistling.*


----------



## simfreak47

Nice!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


*Sits in the corner and starts whistling.*


Well congrats to the fellows for pulling it off.









N2G


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


BlackOmega, I'm digging Reptile!









Or, as my avatar has been heard to say, "Toasty!"









Since a friendly stalker







reminded me on chat earlier today, I hope to be able to summon enough gumption and time tomorrow and work on a machine or two (or three). At the very least, I know that I owe some of y'alls some photos of my H20 parts, so if I could keep the work devils at bay for an hour or so tomorrow I'll be able to post some hardware pr0n.










 Thanks









And I would like to see this H2O getup, and your opinions on it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Well if I was not as slow as molasis then I would prolly worry about spd.

Moving on now. I have a different question about a mouse. I'm wondering if any one has any experience with this mouse and if it is any good for gaming or if there is better to be had at that price line???

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-178-_-Product

Thanks,

N2G



Ive got one that look brand new yet the left mouse button doesnt work. I replaced it with a MX400 hi performance laser mouse. Looks a little different but its basically layed out the same. And I havent had any of the issues that the people on the reviews have complained about. 
But as far as Logitech is concerned, I think for my next mouse purchase Ill look in to a different company. Logitechs warranty sucks. 30 days and thats it. 
I suggest you find a different brand with a better warranty.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
I'm thinking of reselling my DFI board on ebay to see if somebody else who knows how to repair it wants it... It powers up fine...
I may try it again with a PCI video card, maybe the pci-e is the problem? I don't know why I didn't think of that earlier







.

Nate, did you ever get in touch with DFI for a replacement BIOS?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Wireless, even with a WEP/WPA, can still be compromised.

Blitz, WPA/WPA2 can only be compromised if the router is using PSK authentication. Even if so since the pre-shared key is 8 to 63 characters long it still makes it virtually impossible to crack. If the pre-shared key were relatively short or a dictionary word then yes it could be compromised. An unbreakable wireless network would consist of a 63 character pre-shared key with random and special characters (WPA/WPA2). That cannot be "compromised"









Good luck


----------



## pez

Damn N2, I missed that question on that mouse. That mouse is fantastic IMO. I used one for 2 years until I got my Razer DeathAdder. I've come to like the Razer better, but it's twice the price, and technically not as "bang for your buck" as the MX518. If you have larger hands, then it will be really great for you. Try shopping around for it, you can usually find them for about 25-30 bucks.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
But as far as Logitech is concerned, I think for my next mouse purchase Ill look in to a different company. Logitechs warranty sucks. 30 days and thats it.

I disagree. One of my Logitech G5 mice started to not work intermittently. As near as I can tell, the wire was being pulled out of the mouse due to the molestation it got in my laptop bag. (Rest assured, I now keep my laptop mouse in a sandwich bag to prevent this.) I contacted Logitech and told them that I got the mouse for my Christmas some 13 months prior, and that the mouse would intermittently not work due to visible damage to the wire. They told me to ship them the mouse, and they would ship me a replacement. I sent in the mouse in a flat rate mailer, and a week later, I got a brand-new, in-box G5 at no charge to me.

I have used Logitech mice since my 80386. I had also tried several models of Microsoft mice. (Namely, the "Intellimouse Explorer" and its progeny.) Given the choice between the two, I would take Logitech every time. When Microsoft wants you to buy a new mouse, they cut driver support for yours. I was burned a few times because of this, most recently, my favorite keyboard. My keyboard was released when XP was brand new. Intellitype 5.0 was released for Windows ME, but not officially XP. Fortunately, the software worked in XP. When Intellitype 5.5 was released (first one for XP; first one that had x64 support) my keyboard was no longer in the INF list. A 6 month old keyboard, already obsolete according to Microsoft. If you wanted to install the keyboard on Vista, you could shoehorn the ME software in the x86 version. It was not pretty, but it worked. (You needed to disable UAC to program the keyboard, then you can put UAC back on.) It was impossible to get the keyboard to work in x64 no matter what you do.

Logitech usually keeps driver support up to date; my MX 510 has Vista x64 driver support available via Logitech's website for example, despite me purchasing the mouse long before Vista's public beta. The G5 is obviously supportive of Vista natively.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I disagree. One of my Logitech G5 mice started to not work intermittently. As near as I can tell, the wire was being pulled out of the mouse due to the molestation it got in my laptop bag. (Rest assured, I now keep my laptop mouse in a sandwich bag to prevent this.) I contacted Logitech and told them that I got the mouse for my Christmas some 13 months prior, and that the mouse would intermittently not work due to visible damage to the wire. They told me to ship them the mouse, and they would ship me a replacement. I sent in the mouse in a flat rate mailer, and a week later, I got a brand-new, in-box G5 at no charge to me.

I have used Logitech mice since my 80386. I had also tried several models of Microsoft mice. (Namely, the "Intellimouse Explorer" and its progeny.) Given the choice between the two, I would take Logitech every time. When Microsoft wants you to buy a new mouse, they cut driver support for yours. I was burned a few times because of this, most recently, my favorite keyboard. My keyboard was released when XP was brand new. Intellitype 5.0 was released for Windows ME, but not officially XP. Fortunately, the software worked in XP. When Intellitype 5.5 was released (first one for XP; first one that had x64 support) my keyboard was no longer in the INF list. A 6 month old keyboard, already obsolete according to Microsoft. If you wanted to install the keyboard on Vista, you could shoehorn the ME software in the x86 version. It was not pretty, but it worked. (You needed to disable UAC to program the keyboard, then you can put UAC back on.) It was impossible to get the keyboard to work in x64 no matter what you do.

Logitech usually keeps driver support up to date; my MX 510 has Vista x64 driver support available via Logitech's website for example, despite me purchasing the mouse long before Vista's public beta. The G5 is obviously supportive of Vista natively.


Hmmm well that is very interesting indeed. I might have to call them up and see if theyll send me a replacement. Like I said my MX518 looks brand new, theres not even a scratch on it. The button slowly died. At first it wouldnt register unless you held the button for a second, now it doesnt register at all.









Ill see what happens.


----------



## thlnk3r

BlackOmega said:


> Hmmm well that is very interesting indeed. I might have to call them up and see if theyll send me a replacement. Like I said my MX518 looks brand new, theres not even a scratch on it. The button slowly died. At first it wouldnt register unless you held the button for a second, now it doesnt register at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BlackOmega, if the mouse was purchased through a third party vendor then you might be able to replace it. Sounds like you just received a bad unit in the first place.
> 
> Good luck bud


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 

BlackOmega, if the mouse was purchased through a third party vendor then you might be able to replace it. Sounds like you just received a bad unit in the first place.

Good luck bud

Yeah I just sent them a tech support ticket. Turns out their warranty is a lot longer than I had thought. I couldve swore that when I bought the MX400 I read that the mice were only covered for 30 days







Yet on their website its covered for 3 years.









Well if they replace this mouse for me, I might jsut stick with them. Ill stick with a company that treats me right


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Well if they replace this mouse for me, I might jsut stick with them. Ill stick with a company that treats me right









BlackOmega, I don't think I've ever had a Logitech item fail on me. I have a few HP branded optical mice at work (built by logitech) that I practically thrash around and they are still solid. Step/stomp on it, swing it around hitting the wall...you name I did it. I still need to submerge them in water









Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Damn N2, I missed that question on that mouse. That mouse is fantastic IMO. I used one for 2 years until I got my Razer DeathAdder. I've come to like the Razer better, but it's twice the price, and technically not as "bang for your buck" as the MX518. If you have larger hands, then it will be really great for you. Try shopping around for it, you can usually find them for about 25-30 bucks.

Thanks for all the info Pez, I'm not in a hurry to purchase it any more. I found out that I can use my scroll wheel on my mouse as a third button that I had completely fogot about. So now I'm using it as a mic button for CSS







thus I can keep my hands where I need them and still be able to communicate w/others w/voice in games.

That was the whole reason for looking into getting a gaming mouse in the first place. Then I come to find out that there is software that helps make better head shots etc. So now I'm just getting into this gaming mouse thing and I feel like I'm just touching the tip of the iceburg when it comes to understanding all the options for gaming mice and what will and will not work best for me.

In regards to my hands they are not huge nor small either. I can just about palm a basket ball if my hands are not sweaty and the ball is clean and not over-inflated. My hand size is displayed below I think my hands are about average for a male but then again average to some in not always average to others.










Thank you,

N2G


----------



## Blitz6804

Something I do not miss about mechanical mice: having to clean the ball monthly.

Something I do miss about mechanical mice: they worked on any surface. With an Optical/Laser mouse, I must always have a mouse mat with me, because they do not work on reflective surfaces. (Which most of the tables at my undergraduate institution were; graduate institution not so much.)

N2Gaming: my hand is about 3mm shorter. The MX518 or the G5 will be a good fit for you. My only complaint about the MX51x is that it is very light; the G5 is much heftier.

Regards the software: Gaming mice tend to have a higher DPI than non gaming mice. The software lets you configure that.


----------



## Hueristic

Logitech


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
I still need to submerge them in water









Good luck









for me Logitech =









I love my wingman rumblepad and yes I don't even need to use the software becuase XP Pro x64 detects and uses it with out any logitech software. FTW = less crap loaded on my os.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Something I do not miss about mechanical mice: having to clean the ball monthly.

Something I do miss about mechanical mice: they worked on any surface. With an Optical/Laser mouse, I must always have a mouse mat with me, because they do not work on reflective surfaces. (Which most of the tables at my undergraduate institution were; graduate institution not so much.)

N2Gaming: my hand is about 3mm shorter. The MX518 or the G5 will be a good fit for you. My only complaint about the MX51x is that it is very light; the G5 is much heftier.

Regards the software: Gaming mice tend to have a higher DPI than non gaming mice. The software lets you configure that.

Yup I just started reading up on DPI never heard of it till I started looking at the mice. In any case you can use a plain piece of paper for a mouse pad. any paper will prolly work as long as it's "like you said" not glossy.

N2G


----------



## Blitz6804

In my experience, about three sheets of looseleaf was thick enough to break the reflective nature of the surface below the mouse. Personally, I like to keep the DPI cranked up as high as the mouse will let me and then turn down Windows' mouse speed. I also turn off acceleration. I have always done so, and likely always will do so. If I move an inch, I expect the mouse to move the same distance on the screen regardless how fast I move my hand.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Thanks for all the info Pez, I'm not in a hurry to purchase it any more. I found out that I can use my scroll wheel on my mouse as a third button that I had completely fogot about. So now I'm using it as a mic button for CSS







thus I can keep my hands where I need them and still be able to communicate w/others w/voice in games.

That was the whole reason for looking into getting a gaming mouse in the first place. *Then I come to find out that there is software that helps make better head shots etc.* So now I'm just getting into this gaming mouse thing and I feel like I'm just touching the tip of the iceburg when it comes to understanding all the options for gaming mice and what will and will not work best for me.

In regards to my hands they are not huge nor small either. I can just about palm a basket ball if my hands are not sweaty and the ball is clean and not over-inflated. My hand size is displayed below I think my hands are about average for a male but then again average to some in not always average to others.










Thank you,

N2G

EDIT: Regarding the bolded line above...um "lolh4x"?

Yeah, my hand is only longer than yours by about a quarter inch. I think your hands are wider, so I'd still recommend the MX518 if you ever do decide. The logitech was nice because it was more of a "palm" mouse, whereas the Razer I have is more of a fingertip mouse. I could comfortably let the Logitech stay in my palm. The Razer on the other hand meets at the base of my fingers.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
In my experience, about three sheets of looseleaf was thick enough to break the reflective nature of the surface below the mouse. Personally, I like to keep the DPI cranked up as high as the mouse will let me and then turn down Windows' mouse speed. I also turn off acceleration. I have always done so, and likely always will do so. If I move an inch, I expect the mouse to move the same distance on the screen regardless how fast I move my hand.

Is this why you still suck at CoD4?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
In my experience, about three sheets of looseleaf was thick enough to break the reflective nature of the surface below the mouse. Personally, I like to keep the DPI cranked up as high as the mouse will let me and then turn down Windows' mouse speed. I also turn off acceleration. I have always done so, and likely always will do so. If I move an inch, I expect the mouse to move the same distance on the screen regardless how fast I move my hand.

Interesting, I like to move the mouse just a little with my palm resting on the mouse pad. I guess I'm just lazy.







Prolly form all my injuries but I feel I have more precise controll this way and when some one comes out of no where to frag me I don't spaz and move the mouse to far. What am I saying I suck at all those games any way? Just about every time I come face to face w/any opponant I loose the shoot out.

N2G


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Is this why you still suck at CoD4?









No; my eyes process things too slow. I usually start firing a hair after the other person started firing. (The end result is that I die first almost all the time.) The camouflage of soldiers is too good in that game. One of these days I will need to 'cheat' and kick your butt at it. (That is, turn graphics settings all down to super low such that people pop out in relation to the scenery. For example, on the lowest setting, the bushes and shrubbery on Bloc do not rez at all if you are not within 2m of them. Great for open-sight sniping if you can do it. (The sniper scope makes them rez.))


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
No; my eyes process things too slow. I usually start firing a hair after the other person started firing. (The end result is that I die first almost all the time.) The camouflage of soldiers is too good in that game. One of these days I will need to 'cheat' and kick your butt at it. (That is, turn graphics settings all down to super low such that people pop out in relation to the scenery. For example, on the lowest setting, the bushes and shrubbery on Bloc do not rez at all if you are not within 2m of them. Great for open-sight sniping if you can do it. (The sniper scope makes them rez.))

I used to reverse cheat in half-life. I had the lan setup (8 systems) and some peops would cheat by downloading invisible skins and such. So I renamed the Megatorn skin(huge double size unmissable target) to whatever skin they used and replaced it over the lan on all the other systems.









They could never figure out why thier death count went up through the roof!
















I'm sneaky like that!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, I don't think I've ever had a Logitech item fail on me. I have a few HP branded optical mice at work (built by logitech) that I practically thrash around and they are still solid. Step/stomp on it, swing it around hitting the wall...you name I did it. I still need to submerge them in water









Good luck

Ive had a few logitech mice. 2 wingman gaming mice, 3button no scroll wheel, extra heavy ball, very precise movement. Loved that mouse, after about 5 years same thing happend to those. The buttons stopped working. On one the actual plastic had worn a groove and couldnt contact anymore. The other was a internal failure of the clicking mechanism.
Then I got the mx1000 cordless laser ($100 mouse







), while it was a nice, well layed out mouse, there was a noticable delay. Possilbly half a second or so, but if you play FPSs' like I do, it was definitely noticable. Returned it got the MX518. Now the MX400.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Thanks for all the info Pez, I'm not in a hurry to purchase it any more. I found out that I can use my scroll wheel on my mouse as a third button that I had completely fogot about. So now I'm using it as a mic button for CSS







thus I can keep my hands where I need them and still be able to communicate w/others w/voice in games.

That was the whole reason for looking into getting a gaming mouse in the first place. Then I come to find out that there is software that helps make better head shots etc. So now I'm just getting into this gaming mouse thing and I feel like I'm just touching the tip of the iceburg when it comes to understanding all the options for gaming mice and what will and will not work best for me.

In regards to my hands they are not huge nor small either. I can just about palm a basket ball if my hands are not sweaty and the ball is clean and not over-inflated. My hand size is displayed below I think my hands are about average for a male but then again average to some in not always average to others.










Thank you,

N2G

Did you know your hand was as big as your face







SLAP!









And the software doesnt make for better headshots, just more precise movements.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Something I do not miss about mechanical mice: having to clean the ball monthly.

Something I do miss about mechanical mice: they worked on any surface. With an Optical/Laser mouse, I must always have a mouse mat with me, because they do not work on reflective surfaces. (Which most of the tables at my undergraduate institution were; graduate institution not so much.)
.

I dont miss cleaning my balls monthly either









My mx518 was like that, had to be a relatively smooth but not overly reflective surface. Now my mx400 on the other hand works on damn near anything. As a matter of fact, when I was messing around with putting my other rig together, I actually was using it on the carpet. And it tracked normal. No variation or anything. Great mouse. Every once in a while a piece of lint or dust gets inside the laser hole, and I just gotta blow it out and its fine.

EDIT:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 

Yeah, my hand is only longer than yours by about a quarter inch. I think your hands are wider, so I'd still recommend the MX518 if you ever do decide. The logitech was nice because it was more of a "palm" mouse, whereas the *Razer I have is more of a fingertip mouse.* I could comfortably let the Logitech stay in my palm. The Razer on the other hand meets at the base of my fingers.

I might have to check one of those out. I always seem to hang on to my mice with my fingertips rather than palming them. Which kind of makes the front thumb button useless. It doesnt matter what kind of mouse I use I seem to hold them all the same way.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Is this why you still suck at CoD4?










Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
No; my eyes process things too slow. I usually start firing a hair after the other person started firing. (The end result is that I die first almost all the time.) The camouflage of soldiers is too good in that game. One of these days I will need to 'cheat' and kick your butt at it. (That is, turn graphics settings all down to super low such that people pop out in relation to the scenery. For example, on the lowest setting, the bushes and shrubbery on Bloc do not rez at all if you are not within 2m of them. Great for open-sight sniping if you can do it. (The sniper scope makes them rez.))









at the question.









I have my own theory, Blitz: I think you think that you can think about more than one thing at one time at any one moment. You think your brain can multi-task. To rehash an old argument you and I have shared, I think you're dead wrong.

I think Blitz ain't too good in shooters because his mind's on something else. I've seen this with MP games with him, mainly racing games. Oh lord... I remember when he, pio, and I used to play Race07 together. The three of us would be on the comm together, and the two of them used to chatter all the time. pio would get quiet sometimes when he's going on a hot lap, but Blitz...

Uh, let's just say I wonder how he manages to do something as complex as drive a car (even in a game), much less race one, with all the chatter I hear on the headphones...


----------



## Blitz6804

Your theory does not hold water txtmstrjoe. I race or shoot the same with and without voice chat. Besides; I am a New Yorker. Ask CattleRustler, he knows we never shut up!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Did you know your hand was as big as your face

And the software doesnt make for better headshots, just more precise movements.









I never new it but I tested it "slap chin to hair is just about the same length" lol

I'll use any help I can get, if the software makes my movements less spaztic and more smooth and clean to the head then I'll all for it.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I never new it but I tested it "slap chin to hair is just about the same length" lol

I'll use any help I can get, if the software makes my movements less spaztic and more smooth and clean to the head then I'll all for it.









It was a dirty joke we used to play in junior high. Youd say did you know your hand was as big as your face? then when theyd put their hand on their face you smack their hand.









As for the mouse it wont make you any less spastic, it'll just make your spastic movements more precise


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
It was a dirty joke we used to play in junior high. Youd say did you know your hand was as big as your face? then when theyd put their hand on their face you smack their hand.









As for the mouse it wont make you any less spastic, it'll just make your spastic movements more precise









lol I got to reading your reply post and when I got to used to play in junior high I instantly remembered doing that. Good old clean fun. When we really got bored we would twist two unused staples together to make jacks and place them in a random seat for some one to sit on and then watch in anticipation to see who would sit on them. It was funny till carma came around, caught me slip'n and bit me right back in the Ar$. "OUCH"

Kids don't try that at home. Those day's were differnt then they are now. Today you could go to jail for a prank like that. *" NO I'M NOT KIDDING, JAIL SUCKS SO HEAD MY ADVICE YOU LITTLE HOOLAGANS "*


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
lol I got to reading your reply post and when I got to used to play in junior high I instantly remembered doing that. Good old clean fun. When we really got bored we would twist two unused staples together to make jacks for a some one to sit on. It was funny till carma came around, caught me slip'n and bit me right back in the Ar$. "OUCH"

Yeah we did that too. When Karma came around for me, it was in the form of a thumb tack in my knee. Instead of sitting I kneeled on my seat and wouldnt you know it, theres a tack sticking out of my kneecap :swearing:


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Yeah we did that too. When Karma came around for me, it was in the form of a thumb tack in my knee. Instead of sitting I kneeled on my seat and wouldnt you know it, theres a tack sticking out of my kneecap :swearing:

ROFL, oohh I know that had to hurt


----------



## Blitz6804

Guys... talking about mice is one thing; talking about childhood pranks are another. Could we try to get the thread back onto some semblance of topic?

N2Gaming: You start overclocking that 3500+ at all? Have you checked CPU-Z to find out what revision it is?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Guys... talking about mice is one thing; talking about childhood pranks are another. Could we try to get the thread back onto some semblance of topic?

N2Gaming: You start overclocking that 3500+ at all? Have you checked CPU-Z to find out what revision it is?

Sorry for off topic chit chat.

I have not done anyting other then surf the web and view youtube to make sure sound was working good.

I'll have to get a bigger HDD. win 7 takes up nearly all of the 10 gig HDD so it leaves littel to no room for benchmark software. I can try to oc that little bugger for you give me a minute and I'll post the results. I have the lid from it give me another minute and I'll post a pic of the lid with the stepping code.









N2G

Edit: well this much if for sure it's a venice core.


----------



## Blitz6804

If you have the exact product number, such as ADA3500ASBOX, even better! That saves me some search time trying to find you the suggested limits of the CPU. (The stepping code is more Joe's department.)


----------



## BlackOmega

I can get mine to 2850, at quite the high voltage but itll do it. Mine will run @ 2700 24/7. removing the lid REALLY helped load temps, I can even keep it cool at 1.88v


----------



## Blitz6804

The problem with the Athlon64 3500+: On the 939 platform, it comes in 7 flavors. (The AM2 platform carries another 5 flavors badged as an Athlon 3500+ and 2 flavors badged as a Sempron 3500+.) It was apparently a popular model number.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


The problem with the Athlon64 3500+: On the 939 platform, it comes in 7 flavors. (The AM2 platform carries another 5 flavors badged as an Athlon 3500+ and 2 flavors badged as a Sempron 3500+.) It was apparently a popular model number.


Prolly the price vs perfomance would be my guess that and a stock spd of 2.2Ghz

So far the OC is not working for me can't boot windows. I guess I'll have to try a very small oc to start with untill I get to know all the bios options.

N2G


----------



## Blitz6804

Is it possible for you to post a picture or scan of the IHS, such as:









Or post the textual representation, such as:
ADV4400DAA6CD
LCBIE 0638DPMW
Z011937I60341

(My poor late Toledo. She could have beaten The_Gamer294; I am sure of it!)


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Is it possible for you to post a picture or scan of the IHS, such as:









Or post the textual representation, such as:
ADV4400DAA6CD
LCBIE 0638DPMW
Z011937I60341

(My poor late Toledo. She could have beaten The_Gamer294; I am sure of it!)


Yes in a minute. Still having OC prolems not able to boot now. Win 7 and new board = fail for me. I'm a newb on the board and I just damaged the win 7 os so I might be dong another install but xp this time becuase I am more familiar with it. I just did the win 7 for easy quick set up and diagnostic purposes. Never got around to checking both PCIe slots to see if the sli works or not


----------



## BlackOmega

N2, in the BIOS you can change the which PCIe slot is the primary slot. A very nice feature IMO.

heres the stepping on my 3500+ Venice

ADA3500DAA4BW
NBBWE 0602BPAW
Z878676A62031


----------



## N2Gaming

Here is my 3500+ and the opty 180 getto mod system. I'm showing it for all who remember me posting the heat issue's that I resolved by ghetto modding it. well Turns out the more air I push the more I have to filter as well " seen why in pics "

The OC is at 2300 right now with the ram at ddr230 that's becuase I had to get into window to find out what timings I needed to change from looking at cpuz

I'll make some static ram timing changes and be back in a bit.


----------



## Bogeyone001

so i think i was able to get my rig stable at 3.9 finaly by endlessly playing with everything i can.. i need to run some more tests and hope nothing crashes..

as soon as i finished my motorcycle rebuilding endeavor i will move to a new computer


----------



## Blitz6804

BlackOmega and N2Gaming: Yours are both E6s. Accordingly, it is rated for either 1.350 V or 1.400 V, and is good to a maximum of 65Âº C. It has a 67 W TDP.

N2Gaming: Get some compressed air on that thing!

Bogeyone001: 3.9? Perhaps you meant 2.9 GHz?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
BlackOmega and N2Gaming: Yours are both E6s. Accordingly, it is rated for either 1.350 V or 1.400 V, and is good to a maximum of 65Âº C. It has a 67 W TDP.

N2Gaming: Get some compressed air on that thing!


I know I'll get it cleaned here in a bit. One thing at a time. I just wanted to show you all why I'm about to do yet another ghetto mod for the opty sytem and will post pic of that is a while as well

N2G


----------



## BlackOmega

N2, Im assuming youre in a carpeted room? Vacuuming on a regular basis with a good vacuum cleaner like a Dyson will make dust like that a thing of the past. Ive found that if I vacuum at least once a week I dont get any dust buildup for months.
I honestly started doing that at my old apt. because when my son would eat in his highchair, he would chuck food all over the place. So instead of picking it up I just vacuumed and noticed my rig was staying A LOT cleaner


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
N2, Im assuming youre in a carpeted room? Vacuuming on a regular basis with a good vacuum cleaner like a Dyson will make dust like that a thing of the past. Ive found that if I vacuum at least once a week I dont get any dust buildup for months.
I honestly started doing that at my old apt. because when my son would eat in his highchair, he would chuck food all over the place. So instead of picking it up I just vacuumed and noticed my rig was staying A LOT ckeaner









Thanks for the tip. Yup my house is a horror story. I have a dog and a cat so keeping up w.the dust is hard work at times. I'll get around to it.

good news I made the static RAM timings and got it up to DDR383.4 on the first try. Now to try to crank up the fsb again from 230 to 250 my multi is at 10

N2G

Edit first attemp = fail
second attemp = ram divider at 133 and ram is running at ddr333.4 boots into windows. So i tried fsb 260 for a 2600Mhz oc and fail


----------



## Blitz6804

I will periodically vacuum the exterior of my case and non electronic parts thereof. All filters are cleaned regularly. The interior of the case is rarely dusty enough to require doing anything to it.


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 

Bogeyone001: 3.9? Perhaps you meant 2.9 GHz?

ahh yes did mean to hit 2.9.. typo..


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thanks for the tip. Yup my house is a horror story. I have a dog and a cat so keeping up w.the dust is hard work at times. I'll get around to it.

good news I made the static RAM timings and got it up to DDR383.4 on the first try. Now to try to crank up the fsb again from 230 to 250 my multi is at 10

N2G

Edit first attemp = fail
second attemp = ram divider at 133 and ram is running at ddr333.4


 N2, how many mem slots you got populated? If youve got all 4 set it to 2T. Certain types of RAM on the A8N32 doesnt like to run @ 1T timings. My kingston ram has NEVER been able to run @ 1T, but my corsair will run @ 1t even with crazy tight timings like 2-2-2-5.
Now on my DFI boards the kingston runs like a champ, no issues and will run @ 1T.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


N2, how many mem slots you got populated? If youve got all 4 set it to 2T. Certain types of RAM on the A8N32 doesnt like to run @ 1T timings. My kingston ram has NEVER been able to run @ 1T, but my corsair will run @ 1t even with crazy tight timings like 2-2-2-5.
Now on my DFI boards the kingston runs like a champ, no issues and will run @ 1T.


BO Thanks for the info, I'm using only two sticks of 1x1gig = 2gig as I posted here

N2G


----------



## Blitz6804

As Pioneerisloud warned you: Asus + OCZ = issues. He replaced the OCZs with Corsairs, and as BlackOmega said, they run easily at "crazy tight timings." Asus is apparently very temperamental with their QVL.


----------



## N2Gaming

ok i am finally starting to get some where with it. I am at 2420Mhz and ddr403.4









Now to up the fsb from 220 in increments of 5

will be back shortly w/results.









OK I was about to give up on this OC rendesvous spelling pft, any way I figured I'd just give it a hell mary and set the cv to 1.4 and it booted at 2475Mhz with ddr333 now I'm gonna see if I can up the fsb any more before playing w/the ram divider.

be back in a few

ok fsb 330 x 10 = 2530Mhz and ddr361.4

gonna go for more.


----------



## N2Gaming

So I would not boot into win 7 w/fsb of 235 until I upped the CoreV to 1.425

going for fab of 240

be back shortly

Well this is as far as I'm gonna get today. After all I did not wake up this morning thinking ah now this is a good day for Overclocking my new mobo that I still know little about. lol so here is where I stopped


----------



## Hueristic

well almost killed my opty, Modded the HS (Thermalite tornado?)from socket 462 and managed to fit the 9800gt on there replaced the ps with the antec 650 swapped out to a matched pair of 256m nanyo 3200 for dual channel and booted up had some driver issues and totally zoned on temps.

Everything at stock It was shutting down while I was tyring to get the nic squared away. So I pop into bios and it's at 130C!!!! Can't believe it was still running! Seems the fan is dead. Have no clue what I did to it. I touched the hs when removeing the fan and almost lost my finger lol!

So anyway got some garbage fan on there now and the temps blow. [email protected]@idle.

I think I'll use the fan from the stock opty hs and then put the stock one on to see the temp difference but it looks like this thing runs hot. I'm not thinking I'll get much in the way of OC on it but I gotta say it's solid as he!1.

Just happy it didn't melt into a piece of slag. Turned the auto shutdown on in bios after this! I'm loseing my marbles in my old age! :d0h:


----------



## Blitz6804

Quite frankly, I am curious why the auto-shutdown was off in the first place...

The stock Opteron cooler you have, is it the 4 heatpipe, 2 heatpipe, or heatpipeless model? Remember, you have 110 W to kick around now (compared to your single core's lower value) so case cooling may need to be increased.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Guys... talking about mice is one thing; talking about childhood pranks are another. Could we try to get the thread back onto some semblance of topic?

N2Gaming: You start overclocking that 3500+ at all? Have you checked CPU-Z to find out what revision it is?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Quite frankly, I am curious why the auto-shutdown was off in the first place...

The stock Opteron cooler you have, is it the 4 heatpipe, 2 heatpipe, or heatpipeless model? Remember, you have 110 W to kick around now (compared to your single core's lower value) so case cooling may need to be increased.


THX, case is open. I had it shut off when checking it last week. It's the 4 pipe.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


THX, case is open. I had it shut off when checking it last week. It's the 4 pipe.


Hueristic, you have the four heat pipe Opteron cooler and you're getting 130C in the BIOS? Perhaps I'm missing something but that sounds like a bad mount. Even if there wasn't a fan mounted you still shouldn't see temperatures that high.

I might also add that having the case open can *sometimes* not help at all. This can effect the airflow and air pressure.

Good luck


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


*Perhaps I'm missing something*














































Quote:



Modded the HS (Thermalite tornado?)from socket 462


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*















































Hueristic, ahh so now you are using the four heatpipe Operton cooler? Sorry there is much confusion in this thread sometimes. Hard trying to keep up with everyones posts/updates


----------



## nategr8ns

K guys, I filled in that form thingy on DFI's website in an "email to engineer" or whatever.
I hate how the form requires me to fill out bios revisions, ide/sata devices, and stuff like that because its all irrelevant to the problem.

So hopefully that's the support thing I'm supposed to fill out for a replacement BIOS chip. We shall see I guess.


----------



## Blitz6804

It is also very possible that the Tornado just cannot deal with the TDP of your Opteron. If memory serves me, the TDP of the average Socket A processor was around 55 W; half of what your Opteron is.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


I hate how the form requires me to fill out bios revisions, ide/sata devices, and stuff like that because its all irrelevant to the problem.

So hopefully that's the support thing I'm supposed to fill out for a replacement BIOS chip. We shall see I guess.


Nate, that's just part of their support process (understanding the situation ect).

I hope they end up sending you a replacement BIOS. Shoot I hope the new BIOS resolves your issues.

Good luck


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Hueristic, ahh so now you are using the four heatpipe Operton cooler? Sorry there is much confusion in this thread sometimes. Hard trying to keep up with everyones posts/updates










Well not yet, I want to get the 73cfm fan working on it first. then I'll swap and compare.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


It is also very possible that the Tornado just cannot deal with the TDP of your Opteron. If memory serves me, the TDP of the average Socket A processor was around 55 W; half of what your Opteron is.


Very possible, I only did it because the Hs on the 9800GT will not fit with the stock HS and the tornado is all copper and I really like the design. Very nice tight fins. I'm hoping with the high cfm fan I'll see some nice temps. but With the current temps I'm not to optomistic.


----------



## BlackOmega

Hue, the stock AMD cooler is actually not that bad. If you recall I ran it on my opty 180 with a tornado fan and I could even run a modest OC without temps getting out of hand. Granted that little tornado fan is loud as all hell but it cooled like crazy. It even lowered my mobo temps by 5-6*C.

Or you could always get one of these Big Typhoons. $29.99 shipped. I would highly suggest a lap job before you even put it on. I did mine all the way to 2000grit







. It works very well. 
Good Luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Good advice on the Big Typhoon, BlackOmega.







It's now a very under-rated HSF, but I like the Big Typhoon a lot, actually. Unmodified it works quite well on our K8s, even overclocked dual-cores. When lapped it performs even better. Swap out the stock fan for something that generates more CFMs and static pressure (such as a 120mm x 38mm fan), and you're golden.


----------



## Blitz6804

It also helps to stick foam blocks in the gaps on either side of the fin array and to provide support to prevent the cooler from pulling away from the motherboard (as it is very tall). There is a good guide of BT mods available on OCN, but I am too lazy to search for it again.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Good advice on the Big Typhoon, BlackOmega.







It's now a very under-rated HSF, but I like the Big Typhoon a lot, actually. Unmodified it works quite well on our K8s, even overclocked dual-cores. When lapped it performs even better. Swap out the stock fan for something that generates more CFMs and static pressure (such as a 120mm x 38mm fan), and you're golden.










Thanks







. Ever since I got mine Ive been very happy with it. Of course lapping it did take a while :swearing: the base was concave so I kind of had to. And at that price its not bad.

Actually I just looked and get this Xigmatek 1283 36.99 shipped with a $10 MIR.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
It also helps to stick foam blocks in the gaps on either side of the fin array and to provide support to prevent the cooler from pulling away from the motherboard (as it is very tall). There is a good guide of BT mods available on OCN, but I am too lazy to search for it again.

The height of the Big Typhoon has never ever been an issue for me, in all the times I've mounted one...


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Hue, the stock AMD cooler is actually not that bad. If you recall I ran it on my opty 180 with a tornado fan and I could even run a modest OC without temps getting out of hand. Granted that little tornado fan is loud as all hell but it cooled like crazy. It even lowered my mobo temps by 5-6*C.

Or you could always get one of these Big Typhoons. $29.99 shipped. I would highly suggest a lap job before you even put it on. I did mine all the way to 2000grit







. It works very well.
Good Luck









I'm hopeing to see the true on craigslist I saw last month, It was real cheap but I lost the info








Good info man thx as soon as I get back on it I'll figure out what wrong with this fan and fortunately this hs didn't need a lap but the stock one will. Time to break out my DA!









Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Good advice on the Big Typhoon, BlackOmega.







It's now a very under-rated HSF, but I like the Big Typhoon a lot, actually. Unmodified it works quite well on our K8s, even overclocked dual-cores. When lapped it performs even better. Swap out the stock fan for something that generates more CFMs and static pressure (such as a 120mm x 38mm fan), and you're golden.



















Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
It also helps to stick foam blocks in the gaps on either side of the fin array and to provide support to prevent the cooler from pulling away from the motherboard (as it is very tall). There is a good guide of BT mods available on OCN, but I am too lazy to search for it again.

fortunately this one has a cover that fits the fan size nicely but I agree on directing the airflow.


----------



## Blitz6804

Found the guide again.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
I'm hopeing to see the true on craigslist I saw last month, It was real cheap but I lost the info









Hueristic, I useually copy and past the craigslist URL into a email and send it to my self so that I can retrieve it quickly for future need. Oh yeah don't forget to list the item in the subject for quick email reviews.

Hope this helps,

N2G


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Found the guide again.

Thx good read, Saw this awhile ago but definitely worth the second read. +1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Hueristic, I useually copy and past the craigslist URL into a email and send it to my self so that I can retrieve it quickly for future need. Oh yeah don't forget to list the item in the subject for quick email reviews.

Hope this helps,

N2G







































Ohh I got my raceing wheel yesterday!


----------



## BlackOmega

Hey fellaz, I was just thinking. Were always talking it up on here but I dont ever game with you guys. I think it would be cool to game it up









So if you guys want to, list the games you play and the contact info to add others as friends (like on steam).

My steam ID is black0mega (the o is a zero).
BF2/2142: BlackOmegaPL

Thats all I have installed at the moment. Aside from that a lot of my games are on steam anyway.









I know Ill probably have to pick up a copy of COD4, how is WAW?


----------



## N2Gaming

Sounds good B O. my steam is N2Gaming add me if you like and that goes for any of you.









Here is the altered Ghetto MOD. Cheap/Free fan filters. Dryer sheets FTW.


























N2G


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Sounds good B O. my steam is N2Gaming add me if you like and that goes for any of you.









Here is the altered Ghetto MOD. Cheap/Free fan filters. Dryer sheets FTW.


























N2G



K Ill add you....

As for your filters.... You can always have that spring fresh scent eminating from your rig









EDIT: I just added you, friend request pending


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


K Ill add you....

As for your filters.... You can always have that spring fresh scent eminating from your rig










Well I chose to use the already been through the dryer non sented ones.







They have less of a tendancy to leave any sticky residue on my componants.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Well I chose to use the already been through the dryer non sented ones.







They have less of a tendancy to leave any sticky residue on my componants.










 So you didnt want the spring fresh scent?









BTW i added you on steam, you should receive a friend request.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


So you didnt want the spring fresh scent?









BTW i added you on steam, you should receive a friend request.


Nope no fresh smells for me. I just booted up my gaming rig will add your request and become steam friends.

N2G


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Nope no fresh spells for me.  I just booted up my gaming rig will add your request and become steam friends.

N2G










then we'll go and unleash some







on some fools


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*









then we'll go and unleash some







on some fools




















That's if I was any good...


----------



## thlnk3r

N2Gaming, interesting mod with the dryer sheets as filters. How much has that hurt the fan in terms of airflow? Does the fan sound like it's working harder? It would be pretty simple cleaning the filters, just throw them away and replace with new









Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*











That's if I was any good...










 Lol.

I saw that avatar also, but I was not sure who that was supposed to be


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, interesting mod with the dryer sheets as filters. How much has that hurt the fan in terms of airflow? Does the fan sound like it's working harder? It would be pretty simple cleaning the filters, just throw them away and replace with new









Good luck


think3r thanks for the regognician, Thas was my whole theory behind testing on this system now before I mod Black and Blue to addapt a quick interchangable filter system for all the fans. I't does not seem to impead air flow any and/or load the fans to make them any louder then before I jimmy rigged them.

Thanks for asking,

N2G

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Lol.

I saw that avatar also, but I was not sure who that was supposed to be










well I was google'n Mortal combat and one page listed names of character so I clicked on scorpion since I'm a Scorpio. IDK if it's the same character though but I thougt it looked cool enough to use.

N2G


----------



## BlackOmega

th|nk3r, whats your steamID so I can add you.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

N2G has borrowed my Scorpion mask!
















Use it for a while. I've got a ton of masked hombres I can use.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


N2G has borrowed my Scorpion mask!
















Use it for a while. I've got a ton of masked hombres I can use.











Sorry bout dat man and thnx for confirming my guestimation about the character type. I hope you don't mind me using it for a while so that I can fit in with the MK theam.

N2G


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


th|nk3r, whats your steamID so I can add you.


BlackOmega, sorry buddy but I don't have Steam installed. I actually sold all my gaming hardware. I can give you Joe's and you can spam his IM box all night


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, sorry buddy but I don't have Steam installed. I actually sold all my gaming hardware. I can give you Joe's and you can spam his IM box all night










If I can handle Blitz's random chat pokes, I can handle anything.


----------



## BlackOmega

LOL!

If youre up for gaming Joe. Me n N2 were on tonight but so many effin haxorz. And theyre not even trying to cover it up. Auto aim, auto shoot, wallhacks the whole nine yards. People like that ruin it for others.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
LOL!

If youre up for gaming Joe. Me n N2 were on tonight but so many effin haxorz. And theyre not even trying to cover it up. Auto aim, auto shoot, wallhacks the whole nine yards. People like that ruin it for others.

I thought that's what was going on.

LOL

My system was like freezing and telling me HL2 cant load so I just unplug'd my connection and turned it off


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I thought that's what was going on.

LOL

My system was like freezing and telling me HL2 cant load so I just unplug'd my connection and turned it off


I wondered what happend to you







It was the perfect time to quit anyway.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I wondered what happend to you







It was the perfect time to quit anyway.


Yup My 939 rig was asking that one dude to say tony Montana but he did not go for it. LOL His voice and accent would have been perfect for it.

edit I'm back on btw


----------



## MikeV_E36

Hey mates! Is that for real???? ---> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=419535

Was there ever an opty 190 out there??


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
If I can handle Blitz's random chat pokes, I can handle anything.









True that.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
LOL!

If youre up for gaming Joe. Me n N2 were on tonight but so many effin haxorz. And theyre not even trying to cover it up. Auto aim, auto shoot, wallhacks the whole nine yards. People like that ruin it for others.

What do you guys play? If it's CoD4, then give me your steam names, b/c I'm trying to get back into CoD4.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
Hey mates! Is that for real???? ---> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=419535

Was there ever an opty 190 out there??









Hey MikeV_E36, that's one of those intriguing "mystery chips." I saw the same CPU-Z screenshot in a couple of different places, and it's the darndest thing I've seen in a while.

Some say that that's a one-off chip that only a very few people in the world have; it was never released for production. I've certainly never ever seen one for sale anywhere at any time.

Others say that that's a great example of photochopping. I don't know, though...

At any rate, I don't know what the real story is behind the "Opteron 190." I personally think it's an engineering sample that someone (perhaps an AMD employee?) has.

Tantalizing, though, yes?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Some say that that's a one-off chip that only a very few people in the world have; it was never released for production. I've certainly never ever seen one for sale anywhere at any time.

Others say that that's a great example of photochopping. I don't know, though...

At any rate, I don't know what the real story is behind the "Opteron 190." I personally think it's an engineering sample that someone (perhaps an AMD employee?) has.

Joe, if it's the act of photochopping then how are they able to get a legit CPU-Z validation? That's what confuses me. The HTT is also pretty high if this were (for example) a 2.8Ghz processor. Questions, questions...questions


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, if it's the act of photochopping then how are they able to get a legit CPU-Z validation? That's what confuses me. The HTT is also pretty high if this were (for example) a 2.8Ghz processor. Questions, questions...questions









Ya, thlnk3r, I very much doubt that it's a photochop job. Of course, I still do remember one chop job you did not too long ago on a CPU-Z screeny, so anything's possible.
















On the other hand, I'm not clever enough to manipulate software of any kind... I don't doubt that CPU-Z could be tricked to generate a legit validation.

If you know how CPU-Z works its magic, anything is possible, no?


----------



## HothBase

http://www.ripping.org/database.php?cpuid=865
Same guy... The funny thing is that when uploading an OC to their database, you're not allowed to enter whatever name you want, you have to choose one from a list... And they have the Opteron 190 in there.


----------



## Blitz6804

Nearly 3.4 GHz is insane for a 939 CPU, regardless if it is a 190 or something else.


----------



## timxirish

In light of the Steam talk from last page, if anybody's looking for a Left 4 Dead pal to play with, feel free to add me (timxirish). I'm very good at the game, but I also play pretty laid back-- point being, I'm not the "omg you noobhead noob mcnoob" type. I also have TF2 and many other Valve multiplayer games.

Also, I finally ordered a SI-128SE. Got mine brand new for $35 from an ebay seller, so i'm very happy.. Though I'm probably not going to have time to install it before I leave on vacation (mexico; mar 1-9th).. When I get back though... I'm going to have a hayday.


----------



## Blitz6804

I do not know about the SI-128SE (ask Joe about this) but the SI-128 needed to be lapped. It is a great cooler once it is and the SI-128SE is better by several degrees.


----------



## BlackOmega

Ill add ya tim, I have TF2 and other games on there. And as N2 showed me last night you can have other non steam games launch through steam and use the steam friends chat, like in BF2.

I was gonna buy L4D, but Im deciding to save all my pennies for a spanking new Am3 rig.

EDIT: just added you


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


What do you guys play? If it's CoD4, then give me your steam names, b/c I'm trying to get back into CoD4.


 Lets see, CSS,TF2,BF2,BF2142,HL2







M, Stalker:SOC, Dark messiah, rag doll kung fu







,Ghost recon advanced warfighter, FEAR, Quake Wars enemy territory, Quake 4, etc.etc.etc.

My steam name is black0mega (o is a zero)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

timxirish, I think the SI-128SE will treat you well. I have never lapped mine, since I'm running mine with a naked chip.







Come to think of it, I never checked mine for base flatness...


----------



## timxirish

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I do not know about the SI-128SE (*ask Joe about this*) but the SI-128 needed to be lapped. It is a great cooler once it is and the SI-128SE is better by several degrees.


Will do.. Unless perhaps he's still lurking in here?









I've heard that Thermalright intentionally made some of their coolers concave (ie. the infamous TRUE), so i'll be watching for that.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Ill add ya tim, I have TF2 and other games on there. And as N2 showed me last night you can have other non steam games launch through steam and use the steam friends chat, like in BF2.

I was gonna buy L4D, but Im deciding to save all my pennies for a spanking new Am3 rig.

EDIT: just added you










Heh, yup. I've got Starcraft and City of Heroes added to my games list







. For fps types, i don't have much past the Valve games and FEAR Combat. And ty.









EDIT:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


timxirish, I think the SI-128SE will treat you well. I have never lapped mine, since I'm running mine with a naked chip.







Come to think of it, I never checked mine for base flatness...


Awesome







. I'll probably be using it with an unlapped IHS though, so i'll be sure to check the base with a razor blade or something of the sort.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I do not know about the SI-128SE (ask Joe about this) but the SI-128 needed to be lapped. It is a great cooler once it is and the SI-128SE is better by several degrees.


Blitz, I think both bases are about the same. The SE just has the thru-holes that provide better airflow movement. I got my SI-128 from Joe which was already lapped I think up to 800 grit? I finished it off with 1,000 and then 1,500 grit. It's a great cooler. I'm actually quite surprised. With a 20C room ambient I'm idling around 28-30C. Since I hardly do anything that requires my system to run full load this is very pleasing to me









Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

The SE also has its heat pipes soldered to the base whereas the regular is fixed with thermal adhesive. Supposedly, the SE comes with a bolt-through mounting mechanism whereas the regular is a clip-on. I have purchased the bolt-through mechanism for mine. (Twice; once for 939; once for AM2; I still have the 939 sitting around somewhere.)

The base on my SI-128 was definitely concave. Very concave. I completely killed 3 sheets of sand paper or so before I got it to some semblance of flatness. It also started to damage the IHS on my Toledo (as can be seen on the recent post of it) in the form of scratching/crushing the periphery.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


The SE also has its heat pipes soldered to the base whereas the regular is fixed with thermal adhesive. Supposedly, the SE comes with a bolt-through mounting mechanism whereas the regular is a clip-on. I have purchased the bolt-through mechanism for mine. (Twice; once for 939; once for AM2; I still have the 939 sitting around somewhere.)

The base on my SI-128 was definitely concave. Very concave. I completely killed 3 sheets of sand paper or so before I got it to some semblance of flatness. It also started to damage the IHS on my Toledo (as can be seen on the recent post of it) in the form of scratching/crushing the periphery.


Blitz, the heat pipes were soldered in? Is the solder visible?

You only went through three sheets of sand paper?









Good luck


----------



## MikeV_E36

Hmm engineering sample seems to be a reasonable explanation to me about opty 190. Way too mysterious chip, maybe we'll never find out like the story of lost atlantis







.. I'm on my way searching for a replacement for my 4200+ and have some opties 185 and fxs60 on my mind!! Was looking for a 165 CCBBE at first place but can't find it







Also ordered a 2gb matched pair of corsair twinx xms3200C2PT.. viva la resurection


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


timxirish, I think the SI-128SE will treat you well. I have never lapped mine, since I'm running mine with a naked chip.







Come to think of it, I never checked mine for base flatness...


Do you apply thermal paste on the chips of the naked cpu?? Do you think SI-128SE is better option than the ultra 120 extreme?


----------



## Blitz6804

After the 400-grit sheet dead.







After the 600-grit sheet died.







After the 800-grit sheet died.







After the 1000-grit sheet was nearly dead.

If I knew it was that bad, I would have paid extra and got a few sheets of 320-grit paper in addition to the lapping kit.

MikeV_E36: Yes to both. The SI-128SE does not cool the CPU quite as well, but you have the benefit of superior MOSFET cooling and RAM cooling. Further, you will be able to add an intake fan on the side of the case quite easily for added air flow.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


Do you apply thermal paste on the chips of the naked cpu??


Yes. A very small amount, but yes.

I tried running without adding TIM, but that was, uh, definitely not cool...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


Do you think SI-128SE is better option than the ultra 120 extreme?


I own both HSFs, and in back-to-back comparisons with similar ambient temperatures and identical fans, the Ultra 120 Extreme is better than the SI-128SE by two degrees at most. In most conditions tested (i.e., variations in fans and fan speeds -- I run a fan controller), the SI-128SE performs just as well; only when running a push-pull 120mm x 38mm setup was there an appreciable performance advantage to the Ultra 120 Extreme (slightly lower temperatures, and much faster return to "idle" temperatures at the cessation of a sustained load condition). However, I strongly prefer the SI-128SE. My reasoning for this strong preference can be found here.


----------



## BlackOmega

Very interesting read Joe. Some people dont understand the give and take relationship between parts. Its like that with every mechanical thing. Its kind of like horsepower and gas milage. Those 2 words should not even be in the same sentence. But that is a more obvious example.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


My reasoning for this strong preference can be found here.










Nice perpsective man, you should really have gone along engineering







Being a mechanical engineer myself I admit I've never thought of the negative impact this hsf could have on my mobo. It's maybe because I've never had any real overheating problems and anyway A8N32s are used to run at temps above 40 celsius as I can see from other's people reports. I've been running with the ultra 120 since may 2008. My mobo is at 37 celsius right now, i got a 80mm fan blowing air at the back plate and a 40mm mounted on the copper fins next to the cpu socket (is that the NB btw??). VRM (the grey fins at the top) reports 29 celsius. I think that these temps are good what do you think?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


Nice perpsective man, you should really have gone along engineering







Being a mechanical engineer myself I admit I've never thought of the negative impact this hsf could have on my mobo. It's maybe because I've never had any real overheating problems and anyway A8N32s are used to run at temps above 40 celsius as I can see from other's people reports. I've been running with the ultra 120 since may 2007. My mobo is at 37 celsius right now, i got a 80mm fan blowing air at the back plate and a 40mm mounted on the copper fins next to the cpu socket (is that the NB btw??). VRM (the grey fins at the top) reports 29 celsius. I think that these temps are good what do you think?


 My A8N32sli loads @ 32*C -35*C depending on ambient temps. And when I had my Tornado fan on the stock HSF i have seen the idle temps as low as 23*C and would load no higher than 28*c. That little fan moved a lot of air.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


My A8N32sli loads @ 32*C -35*C depending on ambient temps. And when I had my Tornado fan on the stock HSF i have seen the idle temps as low as 23*C and would load no higher than 28*c. That little fan moved a lot of air.


wow I've never seen my A8N32Sli run under 30ceslius even when in fully stock


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


Nice perpsective man, you should really have gone along engineering







Being a mechanical engineer myself I admit I've never thought of the negative impact this hsf could have on my mobo. It's maybe because I've never had any real overheating problems and anyway A8N32s are used to run at temps above 40 celsius as I can see from other's people reports. I've been running with the ultra 120 since may 2008. My mobo is at 37 celsius right now, i got a 80mm fan blowing air at the back plate and a 40mm mounted on the copper fins next to the cpu socket (is that the NB btw??). VRM (the grey fins at the top) reports 29 celsius. I think that these temps are good what do you think?


MikeV_E36, those temps are higher than mine, actually. Per Everest Ultimate, given the 22 degs C ambients I've been having lately, my motherboard temperature reports in at 33-35 degs C. Of course, I'm willing to bet that my ambient temperatures are warmer than yours.

Your temperatures are what I tend to get (40-42 degs C) during the height of summer, when my bedroom's temperature gets up to maybe 33 degs C when it's really scorching...


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


MikeV_E36, those temps are higher than mine, actually. Per Everest Ultimate, given the 22 degs C ambients I've been having lately, my motherboard temperature reports in at 33-35 degs C. Of course, I'm willing to bet that my ambient temperatures are warmer than yours.

Your temperatures are what I tend to get (40-42 degs C) during the height of summer, when my bedroom's temperature gets up to maybe 33 degs C when it's really scorching...










Is the 33-35 achieved with a silent fan setup?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


wow I've never seen my A8N32Sli run under 30ceslius even when in fully stock










 Move 90cfm through the stock AMD heatsink and see what happens


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
Is the 33-35 achieved with a silent fan setup?

Well... silence is a subjective quality.









If it's at all helpful, that temperature is what I get with the SI-128SE and Scythe Ultra Kaze 120mm x 38mm combination. The Ultra Kaze is running under-volted via my fan controller, so it's not running at top speed/noise potential. It's quiet enough for me.

Whether it will be for you is another question altogether.









Also, be mindful of your ambient temperatures (always a factor in discussing any sort of system temperatures, no matter what heatsink/radiator setup you're running).


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Well... silence is a subjective quality.









If it's at all helpful, that temperature is what I get with the SI-128SE and Scythe Ultra Kaze 120mm x 38mm combination. The Ultra Kaze is running under-volted via my fan controller, so it's not running at top speed/noise potential. It's quiet enough for me.

Whether it will be for you is another question altogether.









Also, be mindful of your ambient temperatures (always a factor in discussing any sort of system temperatures, no matter what heatsink/radiator setup you're running).

My ambient is 22 celsius and I can achieve 33 celsius by setting the intakes and exhausts to full rpms on my controller but for me personally that's not really silent







So I'll stick with 37 celsius and silent enviroment for me to study lol. In my opinion the greater heating factor for my mobo at this time is the 4870 sitting on it... I remember my temps being well lower when I had the 7600GT on. Any tips to assist me to get things slightly cooler in there?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
My ambient is 22 celsius and I can achieve 33 celsius by setting the intakes and exhausts to full rpms on my controller but for me personally that's not really silent







So I'll stick with 37 celsius and silent enviroment for me to study lol. In my opinion the greater heating factor for my mobo at this time is the 4870 sitting on it... I remember my temps being well lower when I had the 7600GT on. Any tips to assist me to get things slightly cooler in there?










Raise the fan speed to 45% on the 4870. Thats still a tolerable level, anything higher than that it pretty loud. If youre not gaming or doing anything GPU intensive, 35% will suffice.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
My ambient is 22 celsius and I can achieve 33 celsius by setting the intakes and exhausts to full rpms on my controller but for me personally that's not really silent







So I'll stick with 37 celsius and silent enviroment for me to study lol. In my opinion the greater heating factor for my mobo at this time is the 4870 sitting on it... I remember my temps being well lower when I had the 7600GT on. Any tips to assist me to get things slightly cooler in there?









MikeV, good point with the HD 4870 generating extra heat.









Given your present hardware, I think any improvements you'll get will be incremental at best. The only way to improve temperatures that I can think of is to somehow manage your airflow so that you get a faster evacuation of the GPU's heat (achievable with the stock cooler if you use CCC and manage your fan performance accordingly). I don't believe there are any HD4870-compatible coolers which evacuate the hot air out of the case (like the stock coolers do); I run a TRad2 on my HD4870; fortunately, my case has a mid-mounted fan that pushes air towards the back of the case, and I've got vented PCI slots and other openings that promote extraction of the hot air from inside the case.

Hope this gives you some helpful ideas.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
MikeV, good point with the HD 4870 generating extra heat.









Given your present hardware, I think any improvements you'll get will be incremental at best. The only way to improve temperatures that I can think of is to somehow manage your airflow so that you get a faster evacuation of the GPU's heat (achievable with the stock cooler if you use CCC and manage your fan performance accordingly). I don't believe there are any HD4870-compatible coolers which evacuate the hot air out of the case (like the stock coolers do); I run a TRad2 on my HD4870; fortunately, my case has a mid-mounted fan that pushes air towards the back of the case, and I've got vented PCI slots and other openings that promote extraction of the hot air from inside the case.

Hope this gives you some helpful ideas.









My 4870 would get SUPER hot if I didnt crank up the fan speed. 70*c @ IDLE!!! I swear the manufacturers are trying to fry peoples stuff.









@ 45% fan speed my card idles @ a whopping 44*C. Man the sound difference between 40 and 45% is pretty noticable.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
My ambient is 22 celsius and I can achieve 33 celsius by setting the intakes and exhausts to full rpms on my controller but for me personally that's not really silent







So I'll stick with 37 celsius and silent enviroment for me to study lol. In my opinion the greater heating factor for my mobo at this time is the 4870 sitting on it... I remember my temps being well lower when I had the 7600GT on. Any tips to assist me to get things slightly cooler in there?









MikeV_E36, how do you have your fan set up in your CM 690? When I was running my 4850, I removed all of the I/O plates on the back of case and then set a fan on the bottom kind of about 45 degree's aimed at the card. That way it would help exhaust some of the excess heat coming from the video card. These cards do run warm. Do you have two 120mm fans installed up top? That really helps my processor temps dramatically including the components near the top of my case (caps and what not).

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

My HD 4870x2, prior to driver installation, was around 70-75Âº C at idle. Once I installed the driver, it set fan speed at 20% on auto (or so) to make it in the mid-40s idle. Anything over 40% gets too loud for me to be comfortable. (Anything over 28 dBA is intolerable for me.)


----------



## MikeV_E36

This is how my case is arranged. Fans are: 2x120 at top exhaust, 1x120 at back exhaust, 1x120 at bottom intake, 1x120 at window intake, 1x120 front intake, 1x80 at mobo backside intake, 1x40mm next to the cpu socket (NB i think), 1x120 scythe 2000rpm on ultra 120.

The thing with 4870 is not really the heat that generates but the way it's dissipated and spread inside the case. I got my fan @1800rpm (way down 40%) and the gpu idles at 39. Though the heat is not exhausted from the back side as there are many gaps in the hfs cover and the air goes everywhere else than back. I set 100% at the gpu fan but still can't feel any air pressure on my hand from the back.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


MikeV, good point with the HD 4870 generating extra heat.









Given your present hardware, I think any improvements you'll get will be incremental at best. The only way to improve temperatures that I can think of is to somehow manage your airflow so that you get a faster evacuation of the GPU's heat (achievable with the stock cooler if you use CCC and manage your fan performance accordingly). I don't believe there are any HD4870-compatible coolers which evacuate the hot air out of the case (like the stock coolers do); I run a TRad2 on my HD4870; fortunately, my case has a mid-mounted fan that pushes air towards the back of the case, and I've got vented PCI slots and other openings that promote extraction of the hot air from inside the case.

Hope this gives you some helpful ideas.










Maybe I should try tunneling the hot air through the ventilation holes backside. Now the air escapes through this massive gap shown in the picture and other minot gaps too. Besides this the card has a blow down fan unlike let's say my old 8800gts that pushed the air to the side forcing it to exhaust backside.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

MikeV, try flipping your CPU fan so that it blows down, and your topside fans to intake. I know this sounds quite counter-intuitive (because we've been told since time immemorial that heat rises), but perhaps increasing air intake will improve your CPU cooling situation (as well as generate some helpful air turbulence in that area of the motherboard, which should help cool your motherboard chipset some). In my case, my CPU temperatures improved by a massive four-to-six degrees merely by flipping the topside fans from exhaust to intake. It's an easy thing to test.


----------



## nategr8ns

if you do that also make sure that the CPU fan is blowing the same way (down). You don't want the fans fighting each other.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


if you do that also make sure that the CPU fan is blowing the same way (down). You don't want the fans fighting each other.



















hey you wanna race tonight? I'm gonna set my wheel up in a little while and just pm'd N2.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


MikeV, try flipping your CPU fan so that it blows down, and your topside fans to intake. I know this sounds quite counter-intuitive (because we've been told since time immemorial that heat rises), but perhaps increasing air intake will improve your CPU cooling situation (as well as generate some helpful air turbulence in that area of the motherboard, which should help cool your motherboard chipset some). In my case, my CPU temperatures improved by a massive four-to-six degrees merely by flipping the topside fans from exhaust to intake. It's an easy thing to test.










That would create overpressure inside the case causing way too much turbulence in there. 6 intakes and 1 exhaust. In the other hand of course matters change from theoritical to practical so I'll give it a try and see what happens! I'll be changing that lame AC Ryans at bottom and top these days with some ultra kaze slipstreams. Currently 36c for mobo and 36 for cpu with folding.

ps. Who's racing and in what game?? Anyone on for Grid?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


MikeV, try flipping your CPU fan so that it blows down, and your topside fans to intake. I know this sounds quite counter-intuitive (because we've been told since time immemorial that heat rises), but perhaps increasing air intake will improve your CPU cooling situation (as well as generate some helpful air turbulence in that area of the motherboard, which should help cool your motherboard chipset some). In my case, my CPU temperatures improved by a massive four-to-six degrees merely by flipping the topside fans from exhaust to intake. It's an easy thing to test.










Joe, this is exactly what I did with my CM690 and helped dramatically.

MikeV_E36, is that cooler master exhaust fan in the rear one of the silent models (1800rpm)? If so those fan's hardly exhaust anything. Perhaps that is also another one of your issues. You have three hard drives so that generates some heat as well. What kind of intake fan do you have in the front?

Good luck


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Joe, this is exactly what I did with my CM690 and helped dramatically.

MikeV_E36, is that cooler master exhaust fan in the rear one of the silent models (1800rpm)? If so those fan's hardly exhaust anything. Perhaps that is also another one of your issues. You have three hard drives so that generates some heat as well. What kind of intake fan do you have in the front?

Good luck


The rear, window and front are the stock fans that came with the case. All of three are the silent running at 1200rpm. You think I should replace them?
Do you use filters on the upper intakes?


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


ps. Who's racing and in what game?? Anyone on for Grid?


Need for Speed: High Stakes actually. The game crashes all the time in the menus for me, but for some reason its more stable ingame.

I'm up for some GRID though, it's been a long time since I last played.

Huer I'm game


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 

ps. Who's racing and in what game?? Anyone on for Grid?

Haven't tried grid, Nate likes it.

We're raceing NFS HS patch version 4.5

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
Need for Speed: High Stakes actually. The game crashes all the time in the menus for me, but for some reason its more stable ingame.

I'm up for some GRID though, it's been a long time since I last played.

Huer I'm game









Sweet. Just found the driver for my wheel and meds are kicking in!









Found it only seems to crash in the initial setup lobby. Don't know why. Never crashes in game.

If anyone else wants in just get the game set and I'll pm you my ip as soon as N2 gets on. Everyone welcome. I needs fodder.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
If anyone else wants in just get the game set and I'll pm you my ip as soon as N2 gets on. Everyone welcome. I needs fodder.
















Gettin it now but too slow







will be down tomorrow pffff


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


The rear, window and front are the stock fans that came with the case. All of three are the silent running at 1200rpm. You think I should replace them?
Do you use filters on the upper intakes?


MikeV_E36, those fans are great for lower end systems that hardly output any heat like mine. My recommendation would be to replace the intake and exhaust fans with something a bit more higher in speed/cfm. Perhaps Joe or someone else can throw out ideas for new fans. I'm not all that entirely knowledgeable when it comes to good fan selection.

Have you tried flipping the tops fans to intake yet? I'm curious to see if that made any differences.

Good luck


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


MikeV_E36, those fans are great for lower end systems that hardly output any heat like mine. My recommendation would be to replace the intake and exhaust fans with something a bit more higher in speed/cfm. Perhaps Joe or someone else can throw out ideas for new fans. I'm not all that entirely knowledgeable when it comes to good fan selection.

Have you tried flipping the tops fans to intake yet? I'm curious to see if that made any differences.

Good luck


Hmm I don't think that "viva la tacos" is a low end system







Before changing the silent ones I would like to figure out which headers are controlled by qfan on my mobo. If I replace all those 3 with high rpm ones I'll be having headaches man. Also I'll try flipping the top ones in this week and I'll let you know the results, the tops and the bottoms are going to be replaced anyway cause their leds got defective.
What do you think of Scythe Kaze slipstream 120mm 110cfm fans? Are they worth it?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


What do you think of Scythe Kaze slipstream 120mm 110cfm fans? Are they worth it?


MikeV_E36, that fan would definitely intake/exhaust more air then your current one(s). If you're able to control the fan speed with qfan then I say go for the higher CFM fan and just drop the speed. This would be great if you're just browsing the internet or checking email. When you fire up a game then you can increase the fan speed to the monstrous 110CFM









Good luck buddy


----------



## Blitz6804

I personally use Scythe S-Flex fans, specifically the "F" model. Those are 28.0 dBA for 63.7CFM. I have two on my side panel as intake and one in the 5.25" bays for the same. The top side-panel fan is ducted directly onto my SI-128, such that the SI-128 essentially gets outside air. The bottom side-panel fan is ducted onto the intake of my HD 4870x2. The top has an exhaust Scythe Kama-Flex 80mm running at 30 dBA / 34 CFM. There is another on intake on my hard drive bays. These are the loudest fans in my case, but I can hardly hear either of them during normal operation as they are behind several layers of plastic grating. Lastly, I have a Scythe Kama-Flex 90mm running at 27.5 dBA / 37 CFM for my rear exhaust fan. The HD 4870x2 doubles as an exhaust fan due to the design of the reference cooler. Lastly, there is passive ventilation out the bottom of the side panel to prevent a pressure issue.

What does this massive block of text do? Well, 1) gives my raving support of Scythe's fans' performance/noise rating and 2) gives you a system that I find cools well for me. Given that you have a tower cooler and not a blow-down cooler, the idea of ducting your cooler directly outside will likely not work. Unless of course, you can spin the cooler 90Âº such that it faces the rear of the case, something I do not believe the A8N32-SLI can do. At least, not without a special custom retention solution from Hueristic.

(I do not know about the Slipstream, but I know my Silverstone FM-121 110 CFM fan is intolerable.)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


Hmm I don't think that "viva la tacos" is a low end system







Before changing the silent ones I would like to figure out which headers are controlled by qfan on my mobo. If I replace all those 3 with high rpm ones I'll be having headaches man. Also I'll try flipping the top ones in this week and I'll let you know the results, the tops and the bottoms are going to be replaced anyway cause their leds got defective.
What do you think of Scythe Kaze slipstream 120mm 110cfm fans? Are they worth it?


Slipstreams work really well as case fans, especially if the fan mounts have large openings and don't restrict air movement so much. They don't do so well, though, if they work in high-impedance (i.e., as a heatsink fan or on radiator duty) situations.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


MikeV, S-Flex fans work really well as case fans, especially if the fan mounts have large openings and don't restrict air movement so much. They don't do so well, though, if they work in high-impedance (i.e., as a heatsink fan or on radiator duty) situations.


EDIT: I was thinking of the S-Flex fans that Blitz so helpfully mentioned, not the Slipstreams you originally cited, MikeV.

Sorry for the confusion.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


What does this massive block of text do? Well, 1) gives my raving support of Scythe's fans' performance/noise rating and 2) gives you a system that I find cools well for me. Given that you have a tower cooler and not a blow-down cooler, the idea of ducting your cooler directly outside will likely not work. Unless of course, you can spin the cooler 90Âº such that it faces the rear of the case, something I do not believe the A8N32-SLI can do. At least, not without a special custom retention solution from Hueristic.

(I do not know about the Slipstream, but I know my Silverstone FM-121 110 CFM fan is intolerable.)


Thanks for the info! You're right I can't spin the cooler 90Âº on that mobo... Ducting is not an issue, the cpu fan gets sufficient outside air from the side panel fan and my cpu idles at 29c and loads at 46c.

The fans I'm talking about are these. They say 110cfm @ 37db... I think they're gonna be loud.. I might need a second 5.25" bay controller.


----------



## Blitz6804

I knew what ones you speak of. For me, anything over about 28 dBA or so is getting too noisy. my SI-128 used to have an FM-121 mounted on it with the duct to the outside of the case. That was too noisy! Granted, in the case, it was likely more like 35 dBA rather than 39 dBA as with the door off, 37 dBA likely would be 34 dBA in the same situation, I still think it would be too loud. If you go slipstreams, make sure you get fan controllers to dial them back except when necessary. (Or, if your board has built in temperature controls like my AT8-32X did, use that.)

For the record, the reason why I went S-Flex despite being slightly louder for the same speed as compared to a slower slipstream is the MTBF. MUCH longer with the fluid bearing than the sleeve.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Ok so there're some questions for txtmstrjoe regarding A8N32-Sli dlx









-Where is the thermal diode of the mobo placed at on the pcb?
-Which of the 3 components that are connected with the copper heatpipe is the NB?
-Which fan headers does the qfan control? except from the cpu's of course









Thanks


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
Ok so there're some questions for txtmstrjoe regarding A8N32-Sli dlx









-Where is the thermal diode of the mobo placed at on the pcb?
-Which of the 3 components that are connected with the copper heatpipe is the NB?
-Which fan headers does the qfan control? except from the cpu's of course









Thanks

To answer your questions:

- The thermal sensor on the A8N32-SLI Deluxe is most likely on the "northbridge" (i.e., the chipset that is located closer to the CPU socket).

- The "northbridge" is the chipset directly beneath the CPU socket; it occupies the middle position in the array of heatsinks to which the heatpipe assembly is attached.

- I will have to consult the manual to tell you which of the fan headers are governed by ASUS' software package. I am almost sure, though, that the one marked "NB Fan" is one of those. But remind me to do so, and I'll check the motherboard manual for you.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
-Which fan headers does the qfan control? except from the cpu's of course









MikeV_E36, only the CPU_FAN and CHA_FAN1 connectors support the Asus Q-FAN feature.

Good luck


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
MikeV_E36, only the CPU_FAN and CHA_FAN1 connectors support the Asus Q-FAN feature.

Yeah I just read that too on the manual







thanks

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
To answer your questions:

- The thermal sensor on the A8N32-SLI Deluxe is most likely on the "northbridge" (i.e., the chipset that is located closer to the CPU socket).
- The "northbridge" is the chipset directly beneath the CPU socket; it occupies the middle position in the array of heatsinks to which the heatpipe assembly is attached.

So in general the northbridge is the northest chip on the mobo whilst hangin in the case but in a8n32 the actual nb chip is the middle one? Have you ever tried to remove the metal film with the asus logo on it to attach a fan on?


----------



## Blitz6804

The highest up heatsink is generally the MOSFETs/PWM in the motherboards I have dealt with. They are usually designed to share airflow with a stock AMD/Intel heatsink.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
So in general the northbridge is the northest chip on the mobo whilst hangin in the case but in a8n32 the actual nb chip is the middle one? Have you ever tried to remove the metal film with the asus logo on it to attach a fan on?

MikeV_E36, that is correct. The chipset is in the middle and the bottom is the south bridge. The heatsinks on the left and top of the socket are cooling the mosfet/vrm's.

Good luck

EDIT: Sorry Blitz for the double post


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
So in general the northbridge is the northest chip on the mobo whilst hangin in the case but in a8n32 the actual nb chip is the middle one?

Yep.

S939 motherboards don't actually have a northbridge in the classical sense. Before K8s, you see, the memory controller always resided on the northbridge chipset (because it is closer to the CPU socket in the ATX specification). When AMD introduced the K8 microarchitecture (with its memory controller integrated into the CPU itself), most (if not all) K8-compatible motherboards only had one chipset. (They were never really called north- or south-bridge, technically-speaking.)

Dual-chipset motherboards only returned to the AMD side of the fence when nVidia introduced its nForce4 SLI x16 chipset; ATI's RD3200 chipset boards also required two chipsets. The terms "northbridge" and "southbridge" returned to the AMD enthusiast's lexicon, but simply as geographical descriptions of their relative locations.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
Have you ever tried to remove the metal film with the asus logo on it to attach a fan on?

I removed mine on my original A8N32-SLI Deluxe (the one in the sig rig is a new replacement provided by ASUS when the original broke; it was an RMA replacement). It's just stuck on by an adhesive and it comes off rather easily. I didn't think of attaching a fan to it then, though. I suppose it's worth a shot.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I removed mine on my original A8N32-SLI Deluxe (the one in the sig rig is a new replacement provided by ASUS when the original broke; it was an RMA replacement). It's just stuck on by an adhesive and it comes off rather easily. I didn't think of attaching a fan to it then, though. I suppose it's worth a shot.










Aaahh and something last that I recalled of now.. What's your opinion about the famous Stackcool sticker on the back of the pcb?? Should I remove it or not?

Thanks a lot for your support guys







I know asked too many today and got you tired sorry..


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


Aaahh and something last that I recalled of now.. What's your opinion about the famous Stackcool sticker on the back of the pcb?? Should I remove it or not?


I once tried to take that sticker off (on my old board), but it wouldn't budge.

Needless to say, I didn't try to take it off on the second A8N32-SLI Deluxe.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


Thanks a lot for your support guys







I know asked too many today and got you tired sorry..










This Club's strength is in its helpful membership.


----------



## Blitz6804

It is? I thought it was the strength of 939 pins! AMD is trying to recapture the power of those pins so much that they are not migrating far from them. AM2 has one extra. AM3 has one fewer. AM4 (or whatever they call the octocore 32nm planned for 2011) will likely have 939 pins again and will dominate the competition!


----------



## FnkDctr

Well I added some info to my sig

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm98/fnkdctr/ocd.jpg

There is a screenshot as requested. I just ordered a new 700w ocz psu. Hopefully I can get to 3ghz with it, if not, ehh so what.

I have gotten around 2.920 but its not very stable, and im already running 1.50vcore, so I'm not going to push it since 1.45 is my usual limit for overclocking. Usually I run 2.790 on 1.35 12x and 466mhz ram.

Any ideas to boost my system would be greatly appreciated.

And btw I have a westinghouse 22inch lcd, run all games at 1600x1050

People who say an 8800gt will bottleneck on a socket 939 arent educated. I can run Sli 8800gt and rarely have a cpu bottleneck unless its an rts like sins of solar empire which only uses 1 core. Just turn up the graphics 100% and zoom in. All my games run 100% max graphics no lag.


----------



## Blitz6804

I will add you to the off-site roster sometime tomorrow FnkDctr; glad to have you aboard! Thlnk3r or Txtmstrjoe might add you tonight to the on-site roster, if not, definitely tomorrow.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FnkDctr*


Well I added some info to my sig

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm98/fnkdctr/ocd.jpg

There is a screenshot as requested. I just ordered a new 700w ocz psu. Hopefully I can get to 3ghz with it, if not, ehh so what.

I have gotten around 2.920 but its not very stable, and im already running 1.50vcore, so I'm not going to push it since 1.45 is my usual limit for overclocking. Usually I run 2.790 on 1.35 12x and 466mhz ram.

Any ideas to boost my system would be greatly appreciated.

And btw I have a westinghouse 22inch lcd, run all games at 1600x1050

People who say an 8800gt will bottleneck on a socket 939 arent educated. I can run Sli 8800gt and rarely have a cpu bottleneck unless its an rts like sins of solar empire which only uses 1 core. Just turn up the graphics 100% and zoom in. All my games run 100% max graphics no lag.


 Hey Doc. What are your temps like when youre @ 2.92? I run mine 24/7 @ 2903 @ 1.35v. What are your load temps like?And are you using Coretemp to guage your temps?

The thing that slows these chips down the most is heat. The cooler you can keep em the faster theyll go. If I could keep my 180 cool enough I would run @ 3003. But the temps go too high for my liking.

What's your memory running at and at what timings? Have you tried putting it back to stock speed? 2T?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FnkDctr*


I have gotten around 2.920 but its not very stable, and im already running 1.50vcore, so I'm not going to push it since 1.45 is my usual limit for overclocking. Usually I run 2.790 on 1.35 12x and 466mhz ram.

Any ideas to boost my system would be greatly appreciated.


FnkDctr, I've added you to the roster. Welcome to the club









I don't see anything that you could change to boost your system. You seem to have found the max of your processor. Have you made any attempt to increase/adjust your memory frequency and timings? That would provide a nice increase in memory bandwidth. If you really want to see a nice performance jump, pick up a Raptor or a Velicoraptor drive from Western Digital. The 74GB Raptor drive can be had for $99 now. It would be a perfect substitute for your OS drive.

Good luck


----------



## MikeV_E36

Welcome to the club FnkDctr!!

New RAM arrived!!







Corsair TWINX2048-3200C2PT 2x1gb. They do work @ 2-3-3-6-1T @200Mhz 2.75v but not @220Mhz.. So now I'm running @2.5-3-3-6-1T @220Mhz 2.75v. Prior setup was Twinmos 2x512mb @2.5-3-3-8-1T @220Mhz 2.80v. Temps on sticks at this time, given folding is running, are @ 32.5celsius both. Any suggestions about the settings? I'm gonna give it a try to up the cpu at night and see how it goes.

Also, my cores at this time are at 43c and 37c. Is this temperature difference between the 2 cores normal??


----------



## Blitz6804

I have sold 2 of those identical kits to Pioneerisloud. He has been loving them with the identical motherboard you have, perhaps he can share his findings with them? To compare between DDR 440 @ CL 2.5 and DDR 400 @ CL 2.0, I suggest heavy testing. I am talking Everest Bandwidths, 3DMark06, SuperPi 32m, games, et cetera. I think the CL 2.0 will win given my history of 939 RAM tests.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
Also, my cores at this time are at 43c and 37c. Is this temperature difference between the 2 cores normal??

MikeV_E36, eh for idle I would say yes. The 6C difference seems like a large number but I've seen worse. During full load my Opteron 170 had about a 5C to 6C difference. What are you temperatures like during a Orthos/OCCT test?

Good luck


----------



## StormX2

Hey guys,

It is official, that i will be retiring my Opty machine and doing what I never thought I would do. Building I7 rig.

it is my first ever Intel build and I never thought I would see the day.

What i would love to ask my fellow 939'ers to do, is to help me name this machine that has spat on the face of my Cult'ish love for AMD.the name that I have been thinking of, and I believe fits well

†he turncoa†

I want the 939'ers to name my shame.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *StormX2* 
Hey guys,

It is official, that i will be retiring my Opty machine and doing what I never thought I would do. Building I7 rig.

it is my first ever Intel build and I never thought I would see the day.

What i would love to ask my fellow 939'ers to do, is to help me name this machine that has spat on the face of my Cult'ish love for AMD.the name that I have been thinking of, and I believe fits well

†he turncoa†

I want the 939'ers to name my shame.

StormX2, don't feel ashamed for switching to a different platform. The Core i7 is quick. One of my buddies was running a 3800+ X2 and just recently switched to a Core i7 940. It cut his video encoding times from 9 hours down to an hour and a half literally. The processors are pretty amazing.

In any case, I'm trying to think of a name right now....what kind of case are you running and what color is it?

Good luck buddy


----------



## StormX2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
StormX2, don't feel ashamed for switching to a different platform. The Core i7 is quick. One of my buddies was running a 3800+ X2 and just recently switched to a Core i7 940. It cut his video encoding times from 9 hours down to an hour and a half literally. The processors are pretty amazing.

In any case, I'm trying to think of a name right now....what kind of case are you running and what color is it?

Good luck buddy

Actually I decided to go with the CoolerMaster HAF 932

Not sure if anythign Lights up inside of it,

Link to my Incredibly UnFinished Build Log

I wont have everything In till hopefully this Thursday.
I just couldnt help it, Employee purchase at items Cost's and they covor the shipping I saved so much freakin money on this that I just couldnt justify building anything else these days.


----------



## thlnk3r

Storm, since you appear to be a Transformers fan perhaps try looking into some of the Decepticon names: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of...ns#Rotor_Force.

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Why not give it the ultimate traitor's name?

*Starscream*.

I don't know, man. I think it fits...


----------



## StormX2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Why not give it the ultimate traitor's name?

*Starscream*.

I don't know, man. I think it fits...











ah! Super on point right there! Starscream was the Ultimate of the traitors, got his booty handed to him by unicron


----------



## Blitz6804

I dunno StormX2; I do not see it as being a traitor. I see it as you getting the most powerful rig your dollar can buy, and fanboyism aside, that is right now an Intel. We can only speculate how true AM3 will stack up against i7, because at present, AM2+ Denebs are not cutting it. I think the better question might be: how does i5 do compared to AM2+?

Think of it this way: you will be our pioneer into the other side of the fence. We expect you to keep that build log full of details in every quirk and perk you find in the architecture. It would be nice if you could also put comparisons to 939 whenever possible.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I dunno StormX2; I do not see it as being a traitor. I see it as you getting the most powerful rig your dollar can buy, and fanboyism aside, that is right now an Intel. We can only speculate how true AM3 will stack up against i7, because at present, AM2+ Denebs are not cutting it. I think the better question might be: how does i5 do compared to AM2+?

Think of it this way: you will be our pioneer into the other side of the fence. We expect you to keep that build log full of details in every quirk and perk you find in the architecture. It would be nice if you could also put comparisons to 939 whenever possible.


Ah, Blitz, you take everything far too seriously...


----------



## Blitz6804

Its in my nature... I am a numbers dude; I need to do formulae for EVERYTHING I possibly can. If I could algebraically quantify something like "love" I would do so; would make it easier for me to work with.

In other news, the Winter Overclocking Contest has inspired me to one more time take a crack at tweaking Brixfire. I will be posting updates on that thread as I get there.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Ah, Blitz, you take everything far too seriously...


x2 lol.

Well by this weekend, I'll be more than a quarter of the way to my upgrade







.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


We can only speculate how true AM3 will stack up against i7


Blitz, I honestly don't think AM3 is going to be the next big thing. It should however be a nice jump in performance compared to the latter tech.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


AM2+ Denebs are not cutting it.


Perhaps they aren't in terms of "benchmarks" but they are completely fine for every day use. Even gaming on a AM2+ Deneb seems to show improvements.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

As I said, AM3 will likely work out to be more comparable to the i5. Or at least, the launch units of AM3. Later revisions might start packing enough of a punch to matter.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
As I said, AM3 will likely work out to be more comparable to the i5. Or at least, the launch units of AM3. Later revisions might start packing enough of a punch to matter.

My guess would be that by the time AM3 gets comparable to i7 then i7 will have evolved into something better as well. Only time will tell.


----------



## StormX2

Well I think it is a big deal...

I have been AMD forever.

and i am breaking the Cult, especially sicne I dont have a use for a second computer =(
well i COULD find a use, but the electric bill wont make me happy, and I will have to take the 8800 GTS from my Opty build.

Once everything is assembled, The build log will Chronicle everything about what I will be doing. Will also benchmark the machine compared to my opty with the same GPU! YAY!

and on the i7, with and without Hyperthreadinbg, as I will GUANTEE not be using Hyperthreading on my games


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, 8 cores is likely just a fuzz excessive for most games. Any plans with what to do with your Opteron rig? Going into the For Sale section? Going on eBay? Going into a closet in case you need a spare?


----------



## StormX2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Yeah, 8 cores is likely just a fuzz excessive for most games. Any plans with what to do with your Opteron rig? Going into the For Sale section? Going on eBay? Going into a closet in case you need a spare?


I really dont know =(

This computer has lasted me and proved its worth. I would love to find a caring home for it of course, it woul dbe nice to keep it around, but I know I would not use it for superbly long time if ever =/

I would cry knowing it was being un used, but I think I would cry less if it was being used by someone else.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *StormX2*


Once everything is assembled, The build log will *Chronicle *everything about what I will be doing. Will also benchmark the machine compared to my opty with the same GPU! YAY!


Hows that for a name?
I like starscream, but too many people are using transformer names for their computers.

I'll be waiting for those 939 vs i7 benches







.


----------



## Blitz6804

I do not mean differential benches. I mean differences in clocking. Like observations he notices. Exempli gratia: A 939 prefers low latency to high speed whereas the i7 likes {the observation here}.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


What are you temperatures like during a Orthos/OCCT test?


During OCCT today I saw even a gap of 11 degrees between em







freakin weird??

Quote:



Originally Posted by *StormX2*


I want the 939'ers to name my shame.


Don't know about the s939 but the new i7 build should be surely be named after "Shamefull sin"







. Kiddin... i7s seem excellent choice at the moment. I used to be an intel fanboy years ago till I bought my 4200+ and since then I thank AMD everyday.. I still remember my father's face looking at my rig's performance compared to his crappy Pentium D @3ghz looool.. But anyway I would go for an i7 too if I was to buy a new build now









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


To compare between DDR 440 @ CL 2.5 and DDR 400 @ CL 2.0, I suggest heavy testing. I am talking Everest Bandwidths, 3DMark06, SuperPi 32m, games, et cetera. I think the CL 2.0 will win given my history of 939 RAM tests.


I've been experimenting a lot today. The cpu clock won't go higher for sure. I managed to boot @2.7ghz but I get freezes on orthos so I gave up. I tightened the clocks of ram a bit though, running at 2.5-3-2-5 now







Here's the new validation, when you mates have some spare time update it on the roster!


----------



## Blitz6804

MikeV_E36: 11Âº C is quite a large difference. Are you sure the mount on the TRU-120e is tight? An easy way to test this is to lay the case down; if the delta decreases, it is possible the tower is pulling away from the motherboard. To fix, look into txtmstrjoe's 2Â¢ mod to remedy it. (If your chip is not topless, it might need to be a 20Â¢ mod if you get what I am saying.) If you are using a clip-one mount rather than a bolt down: uhm... buy a bolt down. I could send you mine for shipping if you want.

Further: your validation has been changed from a post to a CPU-Z link as requested.

FnkDctr: You are now on the off-site roster.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


I've been experimenting a lot today. The cpu clock won't go higher for sure. I managed to boot @2.7ghz but I get freezes on orthos so I gave up. I tightened the clocks of ram a bit though, running at 2.5-3-2-5 now







Here's the new validation, when you mates have some spare time update it on the roster!


MikeV_E36, I've added your new CPU-Z validation to the roster. Good job









Did you have your memory sub-timings relaxed when trying to find your processors max speed? How about the frequency? Just wondering if that wasn't one of the things that was preventing you from overclocking any further.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

I just wanted to say







to every one.

N2G


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


MikeV_E36: 11Âº C is quite a large difference. Are you sure the mount on the TRU-120e is tight? An easy way to test this is to lay the case down; if the delta decreases, it is possible the tower is pulling away from the motherboard.


Hmm I layed it down but no decrease in delta. I removed the hsf, cleaned surfaces and reapplied paste. I'm using the bolt-through kit to mount it, this time I screwed both screws all way down. It's pretty tight, doesn't move at all. Delta still is there though, whether it's laying down or in normal position. I could even say it got worse after all this procedure









Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Did you have your memory sub-timings relaxed when trying to find your processors max speed? How about the frequency?


Good point about relaxing the timings, I only relaxed the freq. I'll give it a try again tomorrow. I did it all in a hurry today, limited-free time









Hey N2G!


----------



## Blitz6804

MikeV_E36: I have to ask... how is the surface on your TRU-120e? They are notorious for being concave or otherwise unflat from the factory. It could be possible that the TRU-120e and CPU IHS are constructively unflat tending toward the large delta.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


MikeV_E36: I have to ask... how is the surface on your TRU-120e? They are notorious for being concave or otherwise unflat from the factory. It could be possible that the TRU-120e and CPU IHS are constructively unflat tending toward the large delta.


 ya what blitz said


----------



## simfreak47

Hows it going people? I haven't posted in here in a while









Can hardly keep up with this club!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *simfreak47*


Hows it going people? I haven't posted in here in a while









Can hardly keep up with this club!










you got perfect hardware for doing so.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I just wanted to say







to every one.

N2G

:swearing:


----------



## Blitz6804

So, I was cruising Thermalright's webpage for information on some of their products when I came across the weirdest thing ever:

The Thermalright IFX-10

(Images courtesy of Thermalright)

What the heck? It is a cooler you strap onto the underside of your motherboard where the CPU socket is to get it another 1Âº C cooler. Am I the only one who thinks this overkill?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


So, I was cruising Thermalright's webpage for information on some of their products when I came across the weirdest thing ever:

The Thermalright IFX-10

(Images courtesy of Thermalright)

What the heck? It is a cooler you strap onto the underside of your motherboard where the CPU socket is to get it another 1Âº C cooler. Am I the only one who thinks this overkill?


I want one.

I'd totally do it.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *StormX2*


Hey guys,

It is official, that i will be retiring my Opty machine and doing what I never thought I would do. Building I7 rig.

it is my first ever Intel build and I never thought I would see the day.

What i would love to ask my fellow 939'ers to do, is to help me name this machine that has spat on the face of my Cult'ish love for AMD.the name that I have been thinking of, and I believe fits well

†he turncoa†

I want the 939'ers to name my shame.


 TRAITOR!!!!!







J/K.

Good luck with your i7. They are nice cpus'.


----------



## FnkDctr

Well my memory runs stable at 530mhz 3-4-4-7. Stock I run at 2-3-2-5.

It seems my windows takes so long to load, that my overclocked system will crash before windows starts. Yes I guess this is unstable, but I might try a format then test.

My idle temps are aroun 29-35c, load are 49-58c max. Most of the time I can barely get more than 50c out of it.

If I run 1.35vcore which is stock, it becomes unstable around 2.8ghz+ I can get it up to 2.92, but then it gets really touchy.

I am thinking this is my cpu limit.. =( I really wanted 3ghz.

I prefer to run my ram around 466mhz daily, does anyone think it will hurt to run them at 500mhz or higher? I really like the bandwidth.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


Good point about relaxing the timings, I only relaxed the freq. I'll give it a try again tomorrow. I did it all in a hurry today, limited-free time










MikeV_E36, try JEDEC standards (3-3-3-8) first and see where that gets you. There is far more of a performance difference with an increased cpu speed as oppose to tighter sub-timings. If you're able to keep your memory frequency at it's factory speed then I don't see any harm in loosening the timings. CPU speed is king









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


So, I was cruising Thermalright's webpage for information on some of their products when I came across the weirdest thing ever:
[/url]

What the heck? It is a cooler you strap onto the underside of your motherboard where the CPU socket is to get it another 1Âº C cooler. Am I the only one who thinks this overkill?


Blitz, yeah I think your right. Looks like it attaches to the underside of the cpu cooler. I'd have to agree, that is a bit overkill but hey every little bit counts I guess.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FnkDctr*


Well my memory runs stable at 530mhz 3-4-4-7. Stock I run at 2-3-2-5.

It seems my windows takes so long to load, that my overclocked system will crash before windows starts. Yes I guess this is unstable, but I might try a format then test.

My idle temps are aroun 29-35c, load are 49-58c max. Most of the time I can barely get more than 50c out of it.

If I run 1.35vcore which is stock, it becomes unstable around 2.8ghz+ I can get it up to 2.92, but then it gets really touchy.

I am thinking this is my cpu limit.. =( I really wanted 3ghz.

I prefer to run my ram around 466mhz daily, does anyone think it will hurt to run them at 500mhz or higher? I really like the bandwidth.


FnkDctr, wow quite an impressive memory overclock for PC3200









Have you tested enough with memtest to confirm it's stability?

Those idle and full load temps look great as well. Doesn't look like you need to worry about them.

With the timings at 3-4-4-7 what are your other settings such as command rate and tRC? How much VDimm are you running? If you're able to run the stock vdimm with this kit (2.8volts) and if it's stable at it's current OC then I don't see any reason running the frequency any lower.

Let us know

Good luck guys


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, every Corporation/Company run's a shady business. AMD is probably just as bad as Intel when it comes to shadiness.


Even though I love Intel, I have to say, my general bang for the buck goes to ATi/AMD. And..well..you never hear about ATi or AMD about them being shaddy, or confusing the market. (Cept I think their is to many HD4xxx cards out ATM)

I really think ATi should cut their line up down to

HD4870x2
HD4870
HD4850
HD4830
HD4670
HD4350

That gives you 3 high end cards, 1 bang for the buck, and 1 media card, and 1 mid range card.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Alright guys, I had an opportunity arise, and I took it. My sig rig MAY be no more. It depends on what the guy wants, but I may be trading it for a car.

Also, please....subscribe to this thread. I will keep you car lovers entertained







. If you are curious as to what happened to my original GTX...well, the story can be found here.

This will also be the reasoning behind my long absenses. I am EXHAUSTED after all the work we have done so far (pretty much towing and prepping). So I may not check in on the club very often at all. No worries, I haven't forgotten you guys....I'm just busy building my baby back!!!


----------



## N2Gaming

Good going Pio follow your heart and the rest will follow.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


What the heck? It is a cooler you strap onto the underside of your motherboard where the CPU socket is to get it another 1Âº C cooler. Am I the only one who thinks this overkill?


I think so too cause I've seen it in action. It really does nothing. I would characterize this as a visual upgrade for your rig if you get what I mean.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


No worries, I haven't forgotten you guys....I'm just busy building my baby back!!!


Get that baby rolling again! And when you got some time could you please tell me your optimal memory timings?? We got the same pairs! Thanks!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


MikeV_E36: I have to ask... how is the surface on your TRU-120e? They are notorious for being concave or otherwise unflat from the factory. It could be possible that the TRU-120e and CPU IHS are constructively unflat tending toward the large delta.


My english is a bit limited and I don't know how to describe the surface's quality. I think great "roughness" is the appropriate word. You could feel it by just moving your nail on the surface. Maybe I should do some lapping?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


MikeV_E36, try JEDEC standards (3-3-3-8) first and see where that gets you. There is far more of a performance difference with an increased cpu speed as oppose to tighter sub-timings. If you're able to keep your memory frequency at it's factory speed then I don't see any harm in loosening the timings. CPU speed is king










So I should relax the timings to 3-3-3-8 2T and not get past 215mhz for the RAM to be sure that my cpu maxes out. Is that right?

Thanks!


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz, yeah I think your right. Looks like it attaches to the underside of the cpu cooler. I'd have to agree, that is a bit overkill but hey every little bit counts I guess.

It actually goes between your motherboard and the CPU backplate.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
My english is a bit limited and I don't know how to describe the surface's quality. I think great "roughness" is the appropriate word. You could feel it by just moving your nail on the surface. Maybe I should do some lapping?

Rest assured, you English is better than my Latvian. If you look at the TRU-120e from the side, does it appear flat? Take a razor, nail, or some other long straight object and lean it from the edge of the base toward the center. Is it flush, or can you see gaps? Knowing Thermalright, the latter is probable.


----------



## StormX2

I need to find some thermal paste fo rmy new build -.-

anyone have extra?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


My english is a bit limited and I don't know how to describe the surface's quality. I think great "roughness" is the appropriate word. You could feel it by just moving your nail on the surface. Maybe I should do some lapping?

So I should relax the timings to 3-3-3-8 2T and not get past 215mhz for the RAM to be sure that my cpu maxes out. Is that right?


MikeV_E36, are you able to take any pictures of the coolers base for us? Most of the thermalright coolers that I have received have always needed a lap. Heck even my HR-05-SLI needed a lap. If you have the time it probably wouldn't be a bad idea. With my first lap, I followed this guide: http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...ltake-big.html.

In regards to your memory question, if it were me I would keep the memory at stock (or looser timings). See how far you can get with that first. If you think you hit your limit with the processor then start adjusting your memory frequency/timings.

Good luck

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


It actually goes between your motherboard and the CPU backplate.


Blitz, so what you're trying to say is it's mounted on the underside of the cpu cooler


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


If you look at the TRU-120e from the side, does it appear flat? Take a razor, nail, or some other long straight object and lean it from the edge of the base toward the center. Is it flush, or can you see gaps? Knowing Thermalright, the latter is probable.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


MikeV_E36, are you able to take any pictures of the coolers base for us? Most of the thermalright coolers that I have received have always needed a lap. Heck even my HR-05-SLI needed a lap. If you have the time it probably wouldn't be a bad idea. With my first lap, I followed this guide: http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...ltake-big.html.

In regards to your memory question, if it were me I would keep the memory at stock (or looser timings). See how far you can get with that first. If you think you hit your limit with the processor then start adjusting your memory frequency/timings.


I'll remove it tomorrow, check the flatness and post pictures for you to comment further. I'll have some oc tests now to see if the cpu is already maxed out and get back to you with the results!


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz, so what you're trying to say is it's mounted on the underside of the cpu cooler









Maybe? To me, "underside of the CPU cooler" seems as if you mount it on the underside of the CPU cooler, and then mount the whole thing onto the CPU. That is, mount it between the HS and the IHS.

From the tests I have see, the IFX-14 does about 1-2Âº C better at load with the IFX-10 than without. Idle is a wash. I am really interested in replacing my SI-128 with a better cooler, but I am not seeing any outstanding blow-down coolers that can justify the replacement at this time. The GeminII (not the S model; I am talking the one that lets you mount 240mm worth of fans) and the Scythe Orochi do not offer enough of an improvement to justify a swap. I also would ideally like to get one that does not block any RAM slots. My present SI-128 is in physical contact with the RAM in slot2; the use of slot1 would be impossible. If I remember right though, that is not a major issue, because I think the general consensus is that the orange slots are better on a DFI than the yellow ones?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
My present SI-128 is in physical contact with the RAM in slot2; the use of slot1 would be impossible. If I remember right though, that is not a major issue, because I think the general consensus is that the orange slots are better on a DFI than the yellow ones?

Blitz, not sure if the same applies for AM2/AM2+ boards but for Socket 939 the orange slots were typically the ones to go with (ie. better for troubleshooting).

Hope that answers your question


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Regarding that hideous monstrosity that is the Thermalright IFX-14 and its underside CPU cooler, the underside cooler is actually supposed to mount on the other side of the CPU socket, ostensibly to dissipate heat on the motherboard's backside (localized to the CPU socket, of course).

Does it work? Per the reports I've read, it's inconclusive. Some say it improves CPU temps (not indicated if these are at load, at idle, or what) by a degree or two, others say there's no change. In my opinion, it adds needless complexity for no significant advantage. Not to mention it's hideously ugly and expensive.

But that's just me saying it's hideously ugly...


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *StormX2*


I need to find some thermal paste fo rmy new build -.-

anyone have extra?


PM Poineerisloud, He was trying to get rid of some shinetsu or how ever it's spelled a while ago he may still have some prolly not for free though.

Good Luck,

N2G


----------



## Blitz6804

Thanks for the info Thlnk3r, that is what I thought it was (orange was preferential to yellow) but I wanted to verify. It is possible that DFI changed from 939 to AM2, but I am skeptical. Some chipsets (CFX 3200) were cross released for 939 / AM2 if I remember right, so it hardly makes sense to change an established pattern.


----------



## StormX2

well of course not for free..


----------



## N2Gaming

Sorry for that. You said "Any one have extra" and to me that sounds a littel like asking if they are not using it and don't need it, then they can just give it away. I know you did not imply free but If I had any extra I would have thought that is what you ment & or were implying.

Hope this helps,

N2G


----------



## StormX2

lol I am pretty sure I have some ShinEtsu somewhere =/

Do they have a Shelf Life? i think I bought some a year or 2 ago.

Bought These from CD


----------



## Hueristic

WEll Replkaced the POS fan today with the stock one from the amd 4pipe hs. Still haven't got the time to figure out why my 79cfm fan didn't work? It works fine on another system I tried it on. I'm guessing it's the (External)temp sensor. So anyway with the mod I did it takes probally like 80lbs pressure to clip the hs on and u cannot flip the lever lol but that's ok I'm too lazy to shave the spacer down. It was soo tough to get on I don't want to take it off just yet.

Let me tell you, One slip trying to get that #$^[email protected][email protected]# clip on and i'll put the screwdriver through the Mobo!










So anyway here's the results with just the fan change. 66/67c down to 42/43 @stock.

I upped the htt to 250 in software mode with no issues and got up to 255.8 before a crash.

I'm @240 right now folding and the temps are 51/53c so I'm pretty happy with that. I'm now bumming on the 9x multi.

I'm gonna wait to push it till I get the tornado fan back working but anyway the stock one seems to be doing it's job well enough that I can live with it till I get morer important things fixed like my furnace.









Anyone wanna race NFSHS tonight let me know. N2 was the king last night he knocked me off my throne with no mercy (I think he's Haxor! But don't tell him I said that).









And Nate needs to get back in to reclaim his AAA crown. Hope your available tonight Nate. PM me IAN/Smitty is a possibloe for tonight (I think it depends on whether his sister is gonna supply him with vodka or not!














)

So anyway bottom line is looks like this HS is doing a great job and the higher the airflow I get through it the better it performs. I'll have to break out a turbine and see if I can find the max dissipation! hahahahaha... Ahh I think I'm too lazy these days to go that radical.

OK better rap this up, Don't want you guys to think I like typeing or anything! BB to my emoticon replies tomorrow! :cheer:


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
...............
Get that baby rolling again! And when you got some time could you please tell me your optimal memory timings?? We got the same pairs! Thanks!.........

Judging from your sig, you've got them at 220MHz, 2.5-3-2-5-1T. That's the tightest I could get FOUR sticks at. Mine could hit 200MHz, 2-2-2-5-1T, 250Mhz, 2.5-3-3-6-1T, or 266Mhz, 3-3-3-8-1T. Maybe that will help some







.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Still haven't got the time to figure out why my 79cfm fan didn't work? It works fine on another system I tried it on. I'm guessing it's the (External)temp sensor

Hueristic, you could try removing that external diode. I believe I did that on a stock AMD fan and it started running at 100% speed. I could be wrong though. Of course if the diode is removed I don't think it can be reattached.

Good luck


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Hueristic, you could try removing that external diode. I believe I did that on a stock AMD fan and it started running at 100% speed. I could be wrong though. Of course if the diode is removed I don't think it can be reattached.

Good luck


Good thought, Fortunately mine is on a disconnect clip. I removed it but still got nofan movement. It's really wierd. I thought the molex must be bad but it works on the dvdrom?? It's a wierd one! Works on one system and not this one! My head hurts thinking on it! Hahahaha


----------



## nategr8ns

no HS for me tonight


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


no HS for me tonight










:swearing::swearing::swearing::swearing:

Well I guess we will just have to get better while you watch your skillz slowly deteriorate to the point of obscurity!
















*HEY BLITZ*








Can you tell us id this site is legal? (IT says it is except in alaska).

A friend gave me the link and it looks great! And I'd like to share it with all of you but I don't know if it's legit or not.
Watch New movies for free with popup commercials


----------



## Blitz6804

I refuse to use the Zango software. (One from my personal research, and two, because McAfee siteadvisor is screaming its head off.) As to the legality of it, I am dubious given my knowledge of copyright law.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I refuse to use the Zango software. (One from my personal research, and two, because McAfee siteadvisor is screaming its head off.) As to the legality of it, I am dubious given my knowledge of copyright law.


Quote:

In our tests, we found downloads on this site that some people consider adware, spyware or other potentially unwanted programs.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
no HS for me tonight









Nate, did I miss something? Are you referring to your heatsink? Is there anything we can do to assist?

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Nate, did I miss something? Are you referring to your heatsink? Is there anything we can do to assist?

Good luck

thlnk3r, I think he was referring to "NFS: HS," unless I miss my guess.

(OMG, I just channeled Blitzer in this post!







)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
thlnk3r, I think he was referring to "NFS: HS," unless I miss my guess.

(OMG, I just channeled Blitzer in this post!







)

Joe, ahhh. I forget sometimes we go OT in this thread









Thanks for clearing that up.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, ahhh. I forget sometimes we go OT in this thread









Thanks for clearing that up.

You guys are pretty smoothe when it comes to reminding us to stay on toppic.

Thank you,

N2G


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
thlnk3r, I think he was referring to "NFS: HS," unless I miss my guess.

(OMG, I just channeled Blitzer in this post!







)

Hm... no... I do not think you did. I would write the initial post a little more eloquently:

"Thlnk3r: I believe that Nategr8ns was saying that he would be incapable of playing Need For Speed 4: High Stakes tonight."

N2Gaming: Yeah, Thlnk3r is a little nicer about it. I just flat out say "GET BACK ON TOPIC DARNIT!" Which is pretty funny when considering 9 times out of 10, I am the reason it was derailed.

(Quod erat demonstrandum.)

So it is not a total wash, I will take this space to remind everyone that the airlines will start letting you make reservations soon. Remember the party is intending to be held on September 3, 2009 at my domicile. The closest airport is about 5 minutes from my apartment, airport code BUF. Toronto (either YTZ or YYZ... *starts rocking out with Rush*) is about 90 minutes away and Rochester (ROC) is about 60 minutes away. Cleveland (CLE) is the range where you are going to need to rent a car; I am not driving 140 minutes to come get you. Ditto for Syracuse (SYR).

For those driving, look for exit 49 on the New York State Thruway (I-90) to give you a rough idea where I am.

Spouses are welcomed *waves to La Penseure*,* but know that my sleeping accommodations might be limited. I have a spare double bed, plus maybe my own if needed, and two recliners. Everyone else is on the floor. The nearest hotel is $55 a night.

*La Penseure translates to Â«The ThinkerÂ» (feminine). This was a reference to Thlnkie's wifie.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Judging from your sig, you've got them at 220MHz, 2.5-3-2-5-1T. That's the tightest I could get FOUR sticks at. Mine could hit 200MHz, 2-2-2-5-1T, 250Mhz, 2.5-3-3-6-1T, or 266Mhz, 3-3-3-8-1T. Maybe that will help some







.

Thanks. I can't go CL2 @ 220mhz no matter what I try.. The voltage I run the dimms is 2.8v should I lower it to 2.75v? What's your voltage setting?

Here's the base of my tru-120e. That's the best I could do, had to take a hell lot of photos to get that waves appear clear on there.


----------



## Blitz6804

The waviness is normal. Do you have a flat object (like a razor blade) that you can stand up vertically on the base? That is, so it is perpendicular to it. Then take a photo from the side so we can see if it is flat. See: the right picture of the second group; fourth picture overall.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

A comment about lapping: Often it's not enough to lap just one of both contacting surfaces (i.e., just the HSF's base or just the CPU's IHS). For best results, you have to lap both surfaces and ensure that both are as flat as possible.

Be mindful, though, that lapping, of course, voids all warranties.

(But then again, so does overclocking... strictly speaking.







)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
The waviness is normal.

Blitz, all though it may be normal from the factory I consider that a poor finish. What is your opinion? I can't stand the waves/ripples (or whatever you prefer to call them).

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

If not for the concavity of my SI-128, I would not have lapped it. The small ripples on all Thermalright products, believe it or not, are intentionally put there by Thermalright. If I remember right, they claim it facilitates heat transfer. I am not so sure. I will know however that it should prevent the vacuum effect that has been known to happen if you put TIM between two perfectly lapped surfaces. The heat transfer will barely be impaired (if at all) given that you use TIM anyway. With the ridges on mine could not be felt by a finger, but if you ran a finger nail over it, you could hear clicking. The TIM would squeeze out of the minute troughs causing a uniform surface, so any effect should be negligible.


----------



## KnifesEdge

Hi Everyone,

Iâ€™m new to your site and I have been reading through a lot of this thread to try to get more information on overclocking my Opteron 185. I have had it up to 3 GHz (231 x 13, 1.58v) but it is not stable, boots into windows and runs Orthos for less then 10 minutes. I have it at 2.912 GHz (224 x 13, 1.48v) right now and it is very stable, but hotter then I like, not sure I can keep it here when summer comes. The place I normally have it is 2.808 GHz (234 x 12, 1.38v) and this seems to be the sweet spot for year round operation. I have a MSI K8N Neo2 Platinum with 2 Gig of ram, ram will not clock higher then 235 MHz, plus I have a cold boot problem beyond 237 MHz (that really sucks). I have the Tuniq Tower 120 as my CPU cooler and it seems to do ok, but not as good as I thought it would do. I really would like to get it up to 3 GHz stable, but it seems to need a lot of core voltage which of course causes a lot of heat. What if I ran my 185 naked? Is this a good idea? I really do not want to harm it, Iâ€™m not ready to build a new machine yet.

The stepping of my CPU is CCBBE 0615 DPMW. Is this a good stepping?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KnifesEdge* 
Hi Everyone,

I'm new to your site and I have been reading through a lot of this thread to try to get more information on overclocking my Opteron 185. I have had it up to 3 GHz (231 x 13, 1.58v) but it is not stable, boots into windows and runs Orthos for less then 10 minutes. I have it at 2.912 GHz (224 x 13, 1.48v) right now and it is very stable, but hotter then I like, not sure I can keep it here when summer comes. The place I normally have it is 2.808 GHz (234 x 12, 1.38v) and this seems to be the sweet spot for year round operation. I have a MSI K8N Neo2 Platinum with 2 Gig of ram, ram will not clock higher then 235 MHz, plus I have a cold boot problem beyond 237 MHz (that really sucks). I have the Tuniq Tower 120 as my CPU cooler and it seems to do ok, but not as good as I thought it would do. I really would like to get it up to 3 GHz stable, but it seems to need a lot of core voltage which of course causes a lot of heat. What if I ran my 185 naked? Is this a good idea? I really do not want to harm it, I'm not ready to build a new machine yet.

The stepping of my CPU is CCBBE 0615 DPMW. Is this a good stepping?

Welcome to OCN and thanks for Visiting this club KnifesEdge.

Please do us all a favor and CLICK ON ME So you can fill in all of your system information as best possible. Make Model #'s and timings voltages etc will all be very usefull to the experts here when it comes to helping determine what you should be able to do with your overclock.

Thanks and good luck,

N2G

EDIT:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KnifesEdge* 
What if I ran my 185 naked? Is this a good idea? I really do not want to harm it, I'm not ready to build a new machine yet.

If you choose to delid your opty you most definately run the risk of killing your cpu. However with a little patience it can be done w/o killing it. I did not see a bit enough difference for the risk involved when deliding my A64 3500+. I used it for practice in preporation for delidding my Opty 180 but was turned off by the whole process and mental stress involved.


----------



## Blitz6804

As N2Gaming has said, filling in your computer can help you help us help you all! </PORTAL>

When you tried to do 231x13, did you leave your RAM running 1:1, or did you decrease it to the DDR 333 divider?

As to steppings... let me through you the most-often quoted post ever:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
With a DFI LanParty-series board, an Opteron 165 or 170 will do very well. These are all but impossible to find new these days, though, so expect to pay somewhat of a premium compared to maybe six months ago or so.

Good steppings: CCBBE; LCB9E; LCBQE. CCBBEs are from 2006; LCB*Es are from late 2006-mid 2007.

Note: Stepping recommendations are NOT a guarantee of a overclocking result. They merely indicate possible outcomes due to the law of averages being in your favor.

Hope this helps!


----------



## KnifesEdge

N2Gaming and Blitz, I updated my system info as much as possible for now...I'm at work and do not have all my info.

Blitz, I try to always run my ram 1:1 at least as far as the ram will go, in this case about 235 MHz. I have tried using dividers and this just will not work with a motherboard that will not cold boot beyond HTT of 237. Was 250 before I got the Opteron 185. Is it possible for this to get worst with a different CPU? Sure seems to the reason to me.


----------



## Blitz6804

It certainly is. It is possible that when you have 237x13 (3081 MHz) you are simply trying to run the CPU too fast. The easiest way to test this is to decrease your multiplier, perhaps to 10 or 11. If it boots fine at 2370 MHz or 2607 MHz, the HTT is not the issue, but instead, the CPU going too fast.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KnifesEdge* 
N2Gaming and Blitz, I updated my system info as much as possible for now...I'm at work and do not have all my info.

Blitz, I try to always run my ram 1:1 at least as far as the ram will go, in this case about 235 MHz. I have tried using dividers and this just will not work with a motherboard that will not cold boot beyond HTT of 237. Was 250 before I got the Opteron 185. Is it possible for this to get worst with a different CPU? Sure seems to the reason to me.

I think you need to send me the 185 for de-lidding. Ummm just don't be surprised if it comes back with a 9X multi! That happens sometimes!





















:Lachen::Lachen:

Ohhh and welcome! It looks like you have found the best spot on the net for 939 help!


----------



## Blitz6804

KnifesEdge: I think I misread the post. Different CPUs of different bins and steppings were cold bugged in different ways. When you mean "cold boot" you mean the CPU physically being too cold to boot or meaning the first one of the day?

Hueristic: He certainly has. My question is: why the keyboard today? You told us it is smilies only today. (Not that I mind; I like the keyboarded Hueristic better anyway; shows his wisdom better.)


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz, all though it may be normal from the factory I consider that a poor finish. What is your opinion? I can't stand the waves/ripples (or whatever you prefer to call them).

Well it might be a poor finish but a lapping of the base would cost much more for the company = less profit. I'll try taking a pic with a razor to check flatness.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KnifesEdge* 
Iâ€™m new to your site and I have been reading through a lot of this thread to try to get more information on overclocking my Opteron 185.

Welcome to the club KnifesEdge







Nice to see another one with an opty 185 around here! I just bought one for myself!! LCBBE 0628BMPW, in a sealed box at very good price! If you are looking at particular steppings try searching this site. It has a pretty good database.

Got to catch some sleep now, it's 6:00 am in Greece right now. I had to stay awake to catch the bid on opty


----------



## KnifesEdge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
It certainly is. It is possible that when you have 237x13 (3081 MHz) you are simply trying to run the CPU too fast. The easiest way to test this is to decrease your multiplier, perhaps to 10 or 11. If it boots fine at 2370 MHz or 2607 MHz, the HTT is not the issue, but instead, the CPU going too fast.

I have lowered the multi and still cannot go beyond 237, I can run 235 x 12 all day long. In other words, I change it in the bios and it then boots ok. I shut down the computer and it will not boot (first one of the day), I then have to clear CMOS. Not cold bug, but cold boot. I do not think with my setup I could get cold bug.


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## Blitz6804

How old is the battery in the motherboard? It is possible that the battery is dying and it partially corrupts the CMOS settings after being off overnight.


----------



## KnifesEdge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
Welcome to the club KnifesEdge







Nice to see another one with an opty 185 around here! I just bought one for myself!! LCBBE 0628BMPW, in a sealed box at very good price! If you are looking at particular steppings try searching this site. It has a pretty good database.


Thank you all for the welcomes. I have used that database many times to see what my stepping can do in other peoples hands. That is what got me thinking I should be able to hit 3 GHz. I know in overclocking there is no guarantee, but it seems to me that it should be possible. I have got mine to 3 GHz and booted into windows, but it is not stable. I do not like giving the core 1.58 volts, seems very high to me and I do not want to fry it.

What is the max core voltage I can do with the Opteron 185 and still be safe? Also what is the max temp for CPU, for Core0 and Core1?


----------



## KnifesEdge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
How old is the battery in the motherboard? It is possible that the battery is dying and it partially corrupts the CMOS settings after being off overnight.

It is not even overnight, I shutdown and wait maybe 10 seconds or so and try to boot, no go. This does not happen when I change other settings. I do not have the symtoms of a dead CMOS battery...clock not keeping correct time and other odd changes like finding new hardware that was already installed.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KnifesEdge* 
It is not even overnight, I shutdown and wait maybe 10 seconds or so and try to boot, no go. This does not happen when I change other settings. I do not have the symtoms of a dead CMOS battery...clock not keeping correct time and other odd changes like finding new hardware that was already installed.

Hey welcome knifesedge.

Not all dead battery will change BIOS settings. Only when you cut all power to the board. i.e. unplugging it.

As for your issue, when your @ 237 what is your RAM running at? Try to keep it at or below 200 and see if your issues go away.

As for running 3ghz, my 180 will run it but lately since Im using a thermalright xp120 on it, it gets too hot @ that speed. But I dont have to give it nearly as much juice as you do. I run @ 2903 @ 1.36v. In order for me to get to 3003 it needs somewhere in teh neighborhood of 1.45v and well it jsut gets too damn hot for my liking.

As for temps, 65*C @ the core. I use coretemp to monitor mine. Dont EVER use mobo supplied software for that. It seems to monitor the IHS temp not the actual core. The IHS and core temps can vary as much as 20*c, mine do when using asus pcprobe, or smartguardian from DFI.

MikeV, the ribs on the surface mounting plate are machine marks. Mills make those kind of marks. If you lap it itll cool better. ITs just a long and tedious process.

As for delidding, unlike N2 I noticed HUGE temp improvements once the lid was off of my 3500+. Not at idle but at load. It dropped my load temps by 15*C. And I could keep it cool enough to pump 1.92V through it







. But there are inherent dangers when delidding. You could totally bone the CPU and itll never work again. considering you could probably get around $300 for it on ebay Im not sure if its worth the risk. But thats your call.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KnifesEdge* 
What is the max core voltage I can do with the Opteron 185 and still be safe? Also what is the max temp for CPU, for Core0 and Core1?

Maximum voltage is limited by your feelings. In my opinion, I do not like going more than 100 mV over the VID for a 24/7. For your Opteron 185, that would mean no higher than 1.450 V. (Twice that for a suicide.) Most people say no more than 1.400 V on stock cooler, 1.500 V on good air, and 1.550 V under water.

As to temperature, the "CPU" temp should stay below 65Âº C on the stock voltage. The higher your voltage, the lower your temperature should stay. (Ask TestECull for that one.)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
Well it might be a poor finish but a lapping of the base would cost much more for the company = less profit. I'll try taking a pic with a razor to check flatness.

MikeV_E36, that is an excellent point. That very well could be why.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KnifesEdge* 
I have lowered the multi and still cannot go beyond 237, I can run 235 x 12 all day long. In other words, I change it in the bios and it then boots ok. I shut down the computer and it will not boot (first one of the day), I then have to clear CMOS. Not cold bug, but cold boot. I do not think with my setup I could get cold bug.

KnifesEdge, this particular issue may fall under the "FSB hole" situation. Some motherboards have issues at certain HTT speeds and simply cannot POST. Perhaps Joe or another user can explain in better detail. This could be the culprit of your problem. Are you experiencing any issues at 238HTT?

Good luck


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KnifesEdge* 
What is the max core voltage I can do with the Opteron 185 and still be safe? Also what is the max temp for CPU, for Core0 and Core1?

Like Blitz said, you shouldn't go higher than 1.45v. For my tastes 1.45v is a bit high, I've settled in 1,425v for my 4200+. Also in my opinion there are 2 possible ways of having the cpu fried. The first is by exceeding its nominal temperature specification and causing to fry of extreme heat. For your opty this would be >65celsius. Ideal temps when fully 100% loaded would be 50~55celsius. So even if you are running @1.45v, if your cooling is capable of dissipating the extra watts of heat generated through overvoltage, you're ok. The second is by exceeding the upper bound of voltage for the chip. This way, even if you get the best cooling in the world, it's a matter of electronic laws and it would fry cause of the overvoltage.
Also have in mind that upping the voltage is a far more significant overheating factor than upping the frequency alone. Hitting 3ghz @ 1.5v with 50~55celsius would be ideal for me.

If the opty that I'm waiting for to arrive won't do much @1.45v, I'll consider going water. Are there any pros/cons about water?


----------



## Blitz6804

KnifesEdge: An "FSB" hole is a term used to denote a "dead space" in the board's ability to run the HTT at certain settings. That is, your board might be fine from 200 MHz through to 235 MHz. Then it will be unstable and/or refuse to boot until 250 MHz. From 250 MHz through to 285 MHz it will work again quite happily. (Over 285 MHz will not be stable; this is the limit of the board.) This is a hypothetical case; you would need to test your board for sure. To do so, drop your CPU multiplier to 6x, your RAM to DDR 200 (100 MHz) and try booting at 235 MHz. Then 240 MHz. Then 245 MHz. Keep going up until you find a time where the computer can POST and run happily. Be aware, above a certain point, you might need to increase the chipset voltage.

MikeV_E36:

PROS:

Cooler operation of the CPU, GPU, or whatever else you put under the loop.
Bragging rights.
Can be aesthetically pleasing, especially if you dye the fluids.
Generally quieter.
CONS:

Hotter operation of anything not in the loop due to reduced case airflow.
Makes the case very heavy.
Chance of a leak if not constructed properly and/or moved a lot.
Unless you have a massive case, you would need to have the radiator externally located which kills the feel of the project. (Even if it makes the system cooler.)
Will sound like you are next to running water at all times; might be better than the whirr of fans except if you need to use the restroom.


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## StormX2

Always fun to OC on a 939 =)


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## pez

Kinda off topic guys, but my CPU cooler, the Arctic Freezer 64 Pro says it's compatible with 939 and AM2...that should mean it's compatible with AM2+ and AM3 as well, right? I mean, I'm sure it would, but I want to make sure first...


----------



## KnifesEdge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hey welcome knifesedge.

Not all dead battery will change BIOS settings. Only when you cut all power to the board. i.e. unplugging it.

As for your issue, when your @ 237 what is your RAM running at? Try to keep it at or below 200 and see if your issues go away.

As for running 3ghz, my 180 will run it but lately since Im using a thermalright xp120 on it, it gets too hot @ that speed. But I dont have to give it nearly as much juice as you do. I run @ 2903 @ 1.36v. In order for me to get to 3003 it needs somewhere in teh neighborhood of 1.45v and well it jsut gets too damn hot for my liking.

As for temps, 65*C @ the core. I use coretemp to monitor mine. Dont EVER use mobo supplied software for that. It seems to monitor the IHS temp not the actual core. The IHS and core temps can vary as much as 20*c, mine do when using asus pcprobe, or smartguardian from DFI.

As for delidding, unlike N2 I noticed HUGE temp improvements once the lid was off of my 3500+. Not at idle but at load. It dropped my load temps by 15*C. And I could keep it cool enough to pump 1.92V through it







. But there are inherent dangers when delidding. You could totally bone the CPU and itll never work again. considering you could probably get around $300 for it on ebay Im not sure if its worth the risk. But thats your call.

Good luck










Thanks for the welcome, I have just recently unplugged the computer to check the stepping of my CPU and remount the HS&F and the settings did not change, so I believe the CMOS battery is fine. I'm running 1:1 for the best performance out of my ram. My ram really will not go much over 235 @ 2.5-3-2 anyway so the computer cold booting beyond 237 is not much of an issue for me. Hell, the ram I have will not do over 240 no matter what I do and I'm ok with that. What I really would like to do is get it up to 3 GHz (231 x 13, 1:1) stable and cool, but this may not be possible with my setup and I'm not sure I want to spend any more $ on this build, but I am very open to new ideas to achieve that end. I'm saving my $ for a new build for next year. I might be going away from AMD, which I have never done in the almost 15 years of overclocking...my first o/c was the K6-III 450 @ 600 which I still use for an old scanner!

I have to say I often wonder if it is my motherboard that is holding me back, seems to me that people with NF4 boards do a whole lot better at overclocking. So that leads me right into what Blitz posted about "dead space". Thanks Blitz that is a good idea and when I have the time I will look into that, but as I'm sure you all know things like that take a lot of time to investigate.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Kinda off topic guys, but my CPU cooler, the Arctic Freezer 64 Pro says it's compatible with 939 and AM2...that should mean it's compatible with AM2+ and AM3 as well, right? I mean, I'm sure it would, but I want to make sure first...


AM2/AM2+/AM3 all have the same retention modules. 939's is similar. AM2/2+/3 have one clip per side whereas 939 had three clips per side. The question with using it on an AM2+/AM3 CPU is if the cooler can keep up with a TDP. If you are cooling a Manchester now (89 W) you should have no problems cooling a Brisbane (65 W) or Toliman (95 W). The issue arises when you try to cool an Agena (125-140 W) or Deneb (125 W).

KnifesEdge: DDR 500 is generally labeled for 3-3-3-8 @ 2.8 V. If you need more speed, loosen your latencies.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


AM2/AM2+/AM3 all have the same retention modules. 939's is similar. AM2/2+/3 have one clip per side whereas 939 had three clips per side. The question with using it on an AM2+/AM3 CPU is if the cooler can keep up with a TDP. If you are cooling a Manchester now (89 W) you should have no problems cooling a Brisbane (65 W) or Toliman (95 W). The issue arises when you try to cool an Agena (125-140 W) or Deneb (125 W).


The Phenom II x4 8xx chips, and Phenom II x3 7xx chips are all rated at 95watts.

And I think that the Phenom II x4 9xx chips have an inflated TDP, because my Phenom x4 9550 got hotter than these Phenom IIs with similar (within 1*C) ambient/room temps.


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## Blitz6804

You know Tator, we still have not received a CPU-Z validation from you.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


You know Tator, we still have not received a CPU-Z validation from you.


Still have a dead board.









I'm waiting on till I get a new job so I can get a new board.

I have a picture with the my name + CPU, and you can ask the guy who sent it to me or the guy who gave it to him.

I just need to pick up another board, as my current one will only boot from a Live CD as the Southbridge on it is dead/dying/zombie.


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## Blitz6804

Ah yes, I remember now. I keep forgetting to update the roster to reflect that.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Ah yes, I remember now. I keep forgetting to update the roster to reflect that.

I want to switch that machine over to an Xfire rig with my 2600XTs and move the GSOs over to this rig. But everytime I load up nVidia drivers on this board it has a conniption fit, freaks out, BSODs, won't overclock. :swearing:

I am really getting to hate this board, but it was my backup, and I bought it for 10$ shipped.

/neeeeeeeeeeeeeeddddddddddd monies


----------



## Hueristic

Well I just love systool!

reseting the cmos was killing me! I miss the asus/asrock bootgaurd!

Well anyway I got smart and ran a rested button to my cmos clear







why i didn't remember that earlier is beyond me!

so with the new modded hs and 79cfm fan I've hit this so far "Setting FSB to 277.00 MHz...
done".

but it was unstable so I have backed off to "260.35" for now while I stress test ([email protected] is the only stress test I care about







) and so far it's been stable for an hour. But my temps are high.

Here's a cpu-z

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=517189

*edit: Ohh and I finally got the crappy nvidia lan driver working and the broadcomm one, only one unknown device left (have no clue what it could be! hah).


----------



## StormX2

For me if I can play a game for 3 hours without crashing: STABLE


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## Blitz6804

For me, stability is the ability to pass S&M full/long/100% run, run Furmark for an hour, and run CoD 4 for no less than 6 hours straight. If it can do all three, consecutively, not concurrently, it is stable.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *StormX2* 
For me if I can play a game for 3 hours without crashing: STABLE
































*53 minutes stable.*


*ONE hour stable







*


----------



## pez

Mother effing woot. I just got my federal income tax deposited in the bank, so now I'm more than halfway to my upgrade goal. Only one thing. Blitz showed me an awesome deal w/ the motherboard I had already planned to get. It was the $75 motherboard with a 5800+ (3.0GHz). Would it be worth it to get this deal (for $128) now or should I still wait and get a tricore?


----------



## KnifesEdge

Trying to get this straight about Opteron temps: When I’m stress testing should I watch CPU temp or core temps or both for going over maximum temp. Thought that I read somewhere to watch CPU, but then that does seem strange…I would think any temps over max would not be good.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KnifesEdge*


Trying to get this straight about Opteron temps: When Iâ€™m stress testing should I watch CPU temp or core temps or both for going over maximum temp. Thought that I read somewhere to watch CPU, but then that does seem strangeâ€¦I would think any temps over max would not be good.


KnifesEdge, the key temperature to look at is the core temperatures. These will be higher than any "CPU" temperature readings you'll see. The difference between the two is that the core temperatures are taken from thermal sensors on the processor cores themselves, while "CPU" temperatures are taken from a sensor at the IHS (integrated heat spreader, the metal portion on the top-side of a CPU where the CPU's model name, stepping information, and serial number are printed) level.

As far as maximum recommended temperatures go, well... you'll get many different opinions on this particular point. Blitz would always tell you to never exceed AMD's recommended figures (depending on which processor we're talking about), which is typically around 65 degrees C or less. I'm here to tell you that it is possible to exceed these temperatures even on a sustained maximum load, and that the processor will not, in fact, melt, fry, or explode...









The best policy, I would say, is to go as high on temperatures as you are comfortable in taking them. If the heat is excessive, the system will throttle down or shut off to preserve itself anyway.

Good luck.


----------



## Blitz6804

Anything higher than the value posted by AMD at stock voltage will decrease your operating life. Granted, the Opteron chips are designed to last 10 years. Each degree-hour over thermal spec supposedly takes 6 minutes off your lifespan. You could do the math, but you can see it is not much. The temperatures posted by AMD are the "CPU" temperature, that is, the IHS sensor as Joe has said.

Remember, those temperatures only apply at stock voltage. The higher the voltage, the lower the safe temperature. Look at TestECull's CPU... when at 1.650 V, it was quite happy in a cold room keeping load temp down. As soon as he went into a normal room and the temperature went up, he caused irreparable damage that eventually was fatal. Moral of the story: keep your voltages and temperatures down as low as possible. Voltages seem to decrease the temperature at a non-linear rate. 1.350-1.400 V is a minor loss. 1.400-1.450 V is a more significant loss. Anything over 1.600 V you are MASSIVLY effecting the safe temperature. The time to stop overclocking is when you need to start putting large voltage increases for minor speed increases. That is, if 50 mV gives you another 200 MHz, fine. If 50 mV starts giving you 10-15 MHz, it is time to consider slowing back down.


----------



## KnifesEdge

Thanks Joe and Blitz (we posted at the same time) for making it all make since. That really cleared things up for me. I now have some testing to do this weekend.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


wait and get a tricore?












Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


KnifesEdge, the key temperature to look at is the core temperatures. ...

...65 degrees C or less. ...

The best policy, I would say, is to go as high on temperatures as you are comfortable in taking them. ...


























So I'm at a [email protected] BSOD @285 with 4mem chips (all value garbage). semi stable @285 with 2 nanyo 3200's.

Lol had a firefox crash while typeing this. Recovered fine, Still folding fine.
Temps 56/58.

Guess it's time to increase voltage!

Well this Modded hs has got me 45mhz over the stock one so far! Of course I'm sure the fan doesn't hurt either LOL very low noise too









Hah firefox crashed again! well gonna try to change the voltage in software mode! *so wish me luck!*


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


The higher the voltage, the lower the safe temperature. Look at TestECull's CPU...


You mean that if for example 65celsius is safe for stock then for 1.40v would be 55celsius? What happened to TestECull??

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


































So I'm at a [email protected] BSOD @285 with 4mem chips (all value garbage). semi stable @285 with 2 nanyo 3200's.

Lol had a firefox crash while typeing this. Recovered fine, Still folding fine.
Temps 56/58.

Guess it's time to increase voltage!


Good job







Fingers crossed for you! Are you folding on both cores?


----------



## Blitz6804

No, not 55Âº C. As my junk science seems to indicate, we would expect about 63Âº C as the max temperature for a 110 W CPU @ 1.400 V.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


You mean that if for example 65celsius is safe for stock then for 1.40v would be 55celsius?


I think a translation of Blitz's statement is that the higher your VCore, the smaller your temperature headroom becomes (because higher VCore almost always results in higher temperatures). In other words, you have fewer degrees C/F left to play with before the chip starts to exhibit signs of instability induced by high temperatures.

This is a simplification, of course, which completely ignores the efficiency of your cooling equipment, not to mention ambient temperatures, overall case cooling properties, etc. But as a generalization, it's a valid one, in my opinion.


----------



## Blitz6804

My statement is actually the higher the voltage, the lower the temperature you can physically see. That is, higher voltages cause damage at lower temperatures. The correlation is proven, the exact formula to the correlation is not.


----------



## MikeV_E36

I mentioned 55c as example. I just can't understand how the increase in voltage could get the temp threshold down. Maybe you mean that while overvolted the deltas in temp are quicker than in stock? I just can't see how overvolting gets a cpu more vulnerable to temp. A cpu loading at 60celsius whether it's @1.35v or @1.40v is pretty much the same safe for me (that's just another example of course having the same temp in real life can rarely occur).


----------



## Blitz6804

Two things make electomigration easier: increased heat (and so the electrons move faster) and increased voltage (and so the electrons have greater energy). Thus, to prevent damage, you want to be sure to minimize both. This is why people who are on W/C can use more voltage and people on phase chance can use more still: there is less heat permitting more voltage before there is a problem. There are some voltages that are flat out lethal unless you have extreme cooling however.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


My statement is actually the higher the voltage, the lower the temperature you can physically see. That is, higher voltages cause damage at lower temperatures. The correlation is proven, the exact formula to the correlation is not.


I'm not convinced of this, to be honest, TestECull's experiences notwithstanding. One testimonial does not prove a rule.

At any rate, if this is what you meant, why not say it this way in the first place?







(And to be a real stickler for language here, your wording is still a little vague.)


----------



## Blitz6804

Let me try this rewording:

If you are using a *higher voltage* than AMD recommends, you can damage your processor at a *lower temperature* than AMD warns.

Ist klar?


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Two things make electomigration easier: increased heat (and so the electrons move faster) and increased voltage (and so the electrons have greater energy). Thus, to prevent damage, you want to be sure to minimize both. This is why people who are on W/C can use more voltage and people on phase chance can use more still: there is less heat permitting more voltage before there is a problem. There are some voltages that are flat out lethal unless you have extreme cooling however.


I totally disagree with this. Electromigration gets tougher when heat is increased. This is electronics law. In hot enviroments electrons do move faster thus colliding with each other and getting migration lots tougher that in lower temperatures. My opinion about voltage and temps is that a cpu won't be fried in some cases cause of the lowered safe temperature. The temperature that electronic components can stand is standard and doesn't vary due to voltage changes. So even if you go @1.8v, if you can mantain the temp lower than 65c then you won't fry your cpu cause of heat. Of course it's going to be fried but not cause of heat but from overvoltage. All electronic components have a nominal voltage range that operate. Just think of volting the ATX of your mobo with 50v. Will it go boom cause of increase in temp?? It's gonna be dead before even starting to feel hot


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Let me try this rewording:

If you are using a *higher voltage* than AMD recommends, you can damage your processor at a *lower temperature* than AMD warns.

Seine klar?


Clearer.

But it's still a contentious point (to me) because I haven't seen any clear evidence that supports this (again, TestECull's case notwithstanding). Therefore, I would not personally consider it an absolute "rule."

As a cautionary advisory, however, I feel this is adequate, if considerably conservative. But there simply is not enough evidence as submitted by end users (that I've seen) to support it as a true principle or "law."

In fact, there are many examples that fly in the face of this idea. pio can vouch for that, as could I.


----------



## Blitz6804

I really do not think either of you can. At present, neither of your processors are near 10 years old. There is no way to tell if you are shortening their lifespan until they die. It explains why overclockers everywhere will tell you that you can give something on water cooling more voltage than air cooling because, in general, water cooling keeps the temperature lower. Who cares if your safe temperature has gone down because of a voltage increase if you are still no-where near the new, reduced limit?

I really feel no more need to belittle the point. The whole matter of voltages and temperatures is largely a matter of choice. I am on the conservative side of things. Pioneerisloud is on the crazy side of things. Most people will likely fall somewhere between us and be quite happy.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Let me try this rewording:

If you are using a *higher voltage* than AMD recommends, you can damage your processor at a *lower temperature* than AMD warns.

Ist klar?


Very very clear. What I'm saying is:

Increasing volts, increases heat. Heat is energy measured in watts. In cpu most electrical energy transforms into heat. VoltsxAmpers=Watts. Upping the Volts ups the Watts, the energy transformed into heat which means higher temps if you can't dissipate the heat. Keeping the cpu beyond it's temp limit, is safe but no matter how cool you can keep it, if you get out of it's voltage limits it's gonna die for sure.


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Let me try this rewording:

If you are using a *higher voltage* than AMD recommends, you can damage your processor at a *lower temperature* than AMD warns.

Ist klar?


So my X2 is rated for 49 - 71C, and if I run it at that, *with* 1.5vcore, I can really damage it? Gets up to like 67C on load, iirc [can't check, I don't have a PSU]

I should change some bios settings


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I really do not think either of you can. At present, neither of your processors are near 10 years old. There is no way to tell if you are shortening their lifespan until they die. It explains why overclockers everywhere will tell you that you can give something on water cooling more voltage than air cooling because, in general, water cooling keeps the temperature lower. Who cares if your safe temperature has gone down because of a voltage increase if you are still no-where near the new, reduced limit?


Touche. (I know, it lacks the necessary accent mark... not my fault...) True enough and well said.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I really feel no more need to belittle the point. The whole matter of voltages and temperatures is largely a matter of choice. I am on the conservative side of things. Pioneerisloud is on the crazy side of things. Most people will likely fall somewhere between us and be quite happy.


Again, well said. But this is why I say that you do things your own way; you go as high and as hot as you're comfortable (see four or five or six posts back). So thanks for reasserting my point.









It's all well and good to remind people of AMD's published advisories, but there is absolutely no doubt that the figures they put out are on the extremely conservative side. Moreover, they are declared to protect and reinforce their side when warranty claims are made against their products. That is the difference between looking at these from the manufacturer's point of view as a product/product line, and looking at them as purely products of engineering.

(From an engineering standpoint, these products are FAR more robust and resilient than AMD -- or Intel, or nVidia, or whatever company you might want to substitute here -- and its marketing division would have you believe.)

Obviously, what I'm saying here is that overclockers as a group will always favor the engineering perspective; if this is untrue, they wouldn't engage in overclocking at all (why? Because overclocking a chip, in many cases, is explicitly forbidden by the manufacturer.).


----------



## Blitz6804

That is what I THINK, but I have no proof. An E4/E6 3800+ (Manchester) is good to 71Âº C @ 1.350 V according to AMD.


----------



## Hueristic

As heat increases resistance is lowered. With lower resistance components fail because one element (or compound) can no longer match the potential against it losing an electron to a higher potential. thus Lock ups on CPU's.

This in no way means the component is damaged. The element or compound used is not damaged by this unless the potential between the 2 points is of such magnitude that it causes a chemical reaction (such as welding 2 metals).

So in theory, technically speaking.

*HEAT IS BAD*









But you really have to go way beyond specs to cause damage. All procesors are dialed back a specific tolerance before release. IIRC Intel was 15% and AMD was 12% (last time I checked was late 90's).

So stop sounding like little old ladies bickering over stuff you can't prove or disprove because you lack both the knowledge and instruments to do so.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *simfreak47*


So my X2 is rated for 49 - 71C, and if I run it at that, *with* 1.5vcore, I can really damage it?

I should change some bios settings










You are running @1.5v with stock cooling????







What temps do you get? I personally wouldn't go past 1.45v on air.


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


You are running @1.5v with stock cooling????







What temps do you get? I personally wouldn't go past 1.45v on air.


Noo... I have a Arctic Freezer 64

(both the CPU and AF64 are lapped, btw)


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


So stop sounding like little old ladies bickering over stuff you can't prove or disprove because you lack both the knowledge and instruments to do so.













































Loool
















Speaking of heat, is the amd heat-pipe shink any good??


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


You are running @1.5v with stock cooling????







What temps do you get? I personally wouldn't go past 1.45v on air.


Heh, that's been done (back when he had a Club contest with stock cooling only).

I may have run an Opteron with more than 1.5V on my stock cooler... As I recall, it was topping out at around 63 degs C or so at the cores, at 2.8GHz.

Mind you, if the speed seems low, it was because we had to validate the contest entries with a battery of stress tests to prove stability. That was harder to do than with our last, all suicides contest.









(What must be said, though, is that I ran the stock cooler on a naked chip.







)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


So stop sounding like little old ladies bickering over stuff you can't prove or disprove because you lack both the knowledge and instruments to do so.













































See, this is why I'm loathe to quote numbers and such. I have run my tests (gosh, so much time have I put into my own testing) and share what I can. I don't pretend to understand exactly what electromigration is (even if I can read the Wiki article on it), nor do I have a great understanding of electricity or electronics in general. I stick to observations and don't worry about science and theory too much because I don't have the background for it.

But I do trust my data and findings, and my (limited) ability to analyze situations. And this is also why I *insist* that people ought to do their own testing.

If there is one truism in this hobby, it's that there are just almost infinite factors at play that can affect the outcome of any scenario.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *simfreak47*


Noo... I have a Arctic Freezer 64
(both the CPU and AF64 are lapped, btw)


If you feel comfy with your voltages and temps then there's no reason to freak out. After tons of posts we have just concluded to the fact that this matter rests to each person's experience and likings and of course as our friend Hueristic says "HEAT IS BAD"
















Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Heh, that's been done (back when he had a Club contest with stock cooling only).

I may have run an Opteron with more than 1.5V on my stock cooler... As I recall, it was topping out at around 63 degs C or so at the cores, at 2.8GHz.

Mind you, if the speed seems low, it was because we had to validate the contest entries with a battery of stress tests to prove stability. That was harder to do than with our last, all suicides contest.









(What must be said, though, is that I ran the stock cooler on a naked chip.







)


You guys are really trully crazy! I'd be glad to meet you in person and grab a beer with ya! Are you having any club meetings at all? I might be visiting your continent in the late March


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


So stop sounding like little old ladies bickering over stuff you can't prove or disprove because you lack both the knowledge and instruments to do so.


Or perhaps we do have the knowledge and/or instruments to do so and were are just too lazy or inarticulate to get the point across?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


You guys are really trully crazy! I'd be glad to meet you in person and grab a beer with ya! Are you having any club meetings at all? I might be visiting your continent in the late March










The only IRL meeting I know about for the club is my place on September 3rd of this year. OCN has regular gatherings too, I just do not know when or where they are.


----------



## simfreak47

Buffalo NY isn't too far of a drive... I'd love to have a OCN "Get together" and chill / LAN it up !! But I don't think my parents would like that


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
Loool

















Speaking of heat, is the amd heat-pipe shink any good??

Well I'm not impressed, I could only get up to 240fsb with it and with a modded 462 thermalite Venus 12 I got up to 280 and stable so far. anyfarther and the temps are out of control.

So IMO 'I'd not use it unless you have no other chioce. Others here wilol know better though as I only used it for a week till I could get the thermalite done.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
See, this is why I'm loathe to quote numbers and such. I have run my tests (gosh, so much time have I put into my own testing) and share what I can. I don't pretend to understand exactly what electromigration is (even if I can read the Wiki article on it), nor do I have a great understanding of electricity or electronics in general. I stick to observations and don't worry about science and theory too much because I don't have the background for it.

But I do trust my data and findings, and my (limited) ability to analyze situations. And this is also why I *insist* that people ought to do their own testing.

If there is one truism in this hobby, it's that there are just almost infinite factors at play that can affect the outcome of any scenario.

you my friend are absolutely correct! unfortunately most of what we oc's do can not be quantified as it is a art form as well as a technical exercise because of the monstrous amount of variables and the cost of the equipment to truly measure the effects.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Or perhaps we do have the knowledge and/or instruments to do so and were are just too lazy or inarticulate to get the point across?























Good one! gave me a good laugh buddie!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
You guys are really trully crazy! I'd be glad to meet you in person and grab a beer with ya! Are you having any club meetings at all? I might be visiting your continent in the late March









I'll take a root beer.









I actually meet with thlnk3r on a semi-regular basis (probably, on average, once a month).

There are many OCNers and Club S939ers I'd certainly love to hang out with. That's one of the really great benefits to being a part of this community.









If any of you make your way to Southern California (the Los Angeles area, especially), let me know. It'd be great to hang out and swap war stories (and talk about Blitz behind his back





















)


----------



## BlackOmega

Well well well. I leave for a day and Ive got 5 freakin pages to read









At any rate, now that you little old ladies are somewhat done bickering about temps, Blitz I got a wrench to throw in your gears. My 3500+. The highest vcore that Ive been able to boot it @ was 1.92v. It crashed shortly there after but was on long enough for me to see. I can get it to run @ 1.88v somewhat stable.
According to all that we know, 1.88v shouldve been more than enough to cause permanent damage or even fry the chip completely. It didnt, this chip has also hit 84*C at the core. And it still works just fine. Itll run @ 2600mhz all day long @ 1.52v.

So what do you all make of that? And Mike I ran that much voltage on _AIR_








The cpu is naked though


----------



## Blitz6804

How old is the chip? Keep it like that, and it might not live to see 5.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
How old is the chip? Keep it like that, and it might not live to see 5.


Its actually very new. Relatively speaking, I bought it in Nov or Dec.

But shouldnt 1.88v destroy the chip?


----------



## N2Gaming

to every one. I'm trading places w/Hueristic.









We played a few rounds of NFS/HS last night








I think he got the better of me for a mojority of the night.









I was







and not on top of my game.









Well I'm down for a OCN social gathering for some














&







but not down w/ :swearing: or







&









N2G


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*









to every one. I'm trading places w/Hueristic.









We played a few rounds of NFS/HS last night








I think he got the better of me for a mojority of the night.









I was







and not on top of my game.









Well I'm down for a OCN social gathering for some














&







but not down w/ :swearing: or







&









N2G


----------



## pez

Ha! Well I kept 2.65Ghz stable enough for 3DMark06 and got a 10,011. Too bad it froze up shortly after. And that was with 1.52Vcore.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Yo Think, I'll get my RAM specs to you as soon as I can, been busy working. I know I had posted them once before, but I can not find the post.

If I can't upgrade here in a few weeks/months I will need better cooling for my rig. The Big Typhoon just isn't cutting it anymore. I was thinking maybe just running one loop for the CPU and leaving the rest on air.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Yo Think, I'll get my RAM specs to you as soon as I can, been busy working. I know I had posted them once before, but I can not find the post.

If I can't upgrade here in a few weeks/months I will need better cooling for my rig. The Big Typhoon just isn't cutting it anymore. I was thinking maybe just running one loop for the CPU and leaving the rest on air.


sounds like a good idea to me
maybe nb cooling if anything


----------



## Blitz6804

Not to start a "my TIM is better than your TIM," but I am going to be replacing my CPU soon and I am curious if my Arctic Silver 5 really is the best stuff for the job. I have used the stock AMD pads, AS5, and some metal-based compound from Insignia before. Of those three, AS5 had the best texture, ease of use, and temperature deltas.

For those of you who prefer something over AS5 based on your experiences, could you tell me what it is and why you like it better? I was looking into OCZ Freeze; maybe someone can give me the thumbs up, the thumbs down, or point me in a better direction?


----------



## simfreak47

I have AS5 and I LOVE it. It's the only TIM I recommend.


----------



## HothBase

I use MX-2 mostly because I'm lazy.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Arctic Cooling*

this compound does not show decreasing performance over time, does not need to be reapplied and has a durability of at least 8 years.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


maybe someone can give me the thumbs up, the thumbs down, or point me in a better direction?


I also use AS5 and seems good for me. But to be honest I haven't tried any other to compare. All I can advise you is to go for the one that has the higher K. K is a constant indicating the materials conduction capability. Most tim manufactures publish the K of their products. So theoritically the higher the better conductivity the better dissipation. Hope that helps

For OCZ Freeze
Thermal Conductivity: 3.8 Watts / sqMeter -oC

For AS5
Thermal Conductance:
8.7 W/(mÂ·K)


----------



## Blitz6804

The article you linked me to seems to indicate that OCZ Freeze in fact beats Arctic Silver 5. Granted, it is only by about 0.5Âº C. I see that IC Diamond 7 Carat (which I was also considering) rules the day according to Xbitlabs. Could it have something to do with the Thermal Resistance? OCZ Freeze Extreme is 0.0045Â°C-cm2/W whereas Arctic Silver 5 is 0.0290Â°C-cm2/W. So, while AS5 conducts better, it has a higher resistance.


----------



## pez

Lol. I cleaned off the TIM that came on my cooler and used AS5, and even with a 1.52 Vcore on my chip, the highest temp I saw was 65C.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


The article you linked me to seems to indicate that OCZ Freeze in fact beats Arctic Silver 5. Granted, it is only by about 0.5Âº C. I see that IC Diamond 7 Carat (which I was also considering) rules the day according to Xbitlabs. Could it have something to do with the Thermal Resistance? OCZ Freeze Extreme is 0.0045Â°C-cm2/W whereas Arctic Silver 5 is 0.0290Â°C-cm2/W. So, while AS5 conducts better, it has a higher resistance.


Judging from the units of Thermal resistance it must be the reverse of conductivity index k and those two compete against each other. OCZ might beat the AS5 but again you can't really say. Numbers are just numbers. Personal experience of using such products beats theoritical assumptions.. IC Diamond 7 Carat seems to rule anyother with difference which indicates I think that really is a good choice. Fortunatelly pastes are quite cheap so you can buy some and get your testings


----------



## Blitz6804

The biggest complaint I hear about IC Diamond 7 Carat is that it is very hard to spread. Requiring that you heat up the CPU and the TIM before trying to apply, and even then, it is hard to do. The OCZ Freeze Extreme is applied just like the Arctic Silver 5 I am used to: drop in the middle, apply pressure.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


drop in the middle, apply pressure.


Next time you gonna apply some can you take a foto? I'd like to see what the amount of the drop should be. thanks


----------



## Blitz6804

When I use AS5, it is about the size of uncooked minute rice. If you have not lapped your IHS, then the bead would be a bead small enough to just barely fit inside the AMD logo on the right side of it. See:


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


When I use AS5, it is about the size of uncooked minute rice. If you have not lapped your IHS, then the bead would be a bead small enough to just barely fit inside the AMD logo on the right side of it. See:


















Man







All this time I was applying way more paste on the surface.. Way bigger bead on the center. Thanks for the info. Should it be applied where the logo is or on center??


----------



## Blitz6804

Dead smack in the center. You must apply massive pressure to spread it properly though. (Clip on heatsinks might not supply enough pressure, but bolt-through ones sure do.) If you want to check if you have enough, take the heat sink back off. If the area where the die is under the IHS (Google for a delidded CPU to give you an idea) is not covered, you might need slightly more. If the diameter of the circle is about half that of the side of the square, that is sufficient. It is NOT necessary to cover the entire IHS with TIM. If you do not get a circle via this method, either the IHS and/or the HSF are not flat.


----------



## Blitz6804

To clarify, I am borrowing Joe's topless Opteron 170:










You can see the total width of the CPU's PCB by the upper red line. The lower red line is exactly half that. You can see, that if your TIM makes a disc that size, the CPU die will be fully covered.


----------



## BlackOmega

Blitz, I have used AS5 exclusively for years. And it is decent TIM. But the things that have gotten me to seriously hate the stuff is the cure time. Since I bought my mobos' and cpus', it seems as though Im constantly switching hardware around. And the cure time for AS5 is just rediculous. 200+ hours including heat cycling and all that. So if you turn your rig on and never shut it off that 200 hours just increased.

As for other TIMs', I have read several reviews and OCZ freeze and Tuniq MX2 and those seem to be VERY good TIMs' with little or no cure time.

I was one of the "testers" of ICD7 and I have to say that stuff beats AS5 hands down. It literally cut my temps by 3*C @ idle and 7*C at load, on all of my CPUs'. The "cure time is only about 2 hours. Yes spreading it can be a pain, set it in a cup of boiled water for about 5 mins and itll become more viscous and much easier to apply. You dont apply this like AS5, you put a pea size bead right in the center, put on your HS press down to spread it then latch it down. It works VERY well. I used it on my NB hsf and considering that 80% of the HS is covered by my 4870 it still cools remarably well. 36*C @ idle and 40*C @ load.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


I use MX-2 mostly because I'm lazy.


I have read a few reviews of this MX-2 and it is suppose to be a littel better then most TIM's on the market today.

*Non conductive* = Won't fry any thing accidentally becuase it is non metalic and non conductive.

*Better thermal properties* = Cooler CPU Temps.

*No cure time* = Works great from very first boot. No waiting for it to cure so you can start ramping up the overclocks from first boot.

*Longer shelf Life* = It will prolly only have to be applied once in the lifetime of the cpu. They say it has minimum 8 yr shelf life.

*Easy Installation* = Less frustration or worries about how to apply it. applied.

*Good Pricing* = Hard to beat pound for pound in price vs performance comparison.

Here is a couple of reviews I googled for MX-2

Overclockers club review

aphnetworks.com review

driver heaven review

OCIA.net review ans seal of approval

Tweek Towns review best performance must have

Hope this helps blitz

N2G


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


*(Truncated)*
200+ hours including heat cycling and all that. So if you turn your rig on and never shut it off that 200 hours just increased.

. . .

You dont apply this like AS5, you put a pea size bead right in the center, put on your HS press down to spread it then latch it down.


My computer is on 8-16 hours daily, depending on the day of week. I see my lowest AS5 temperatures after 2-4 weeks.

If you apply ICD7C as above, the only difference from AS5 is the volume of TIM. You use about half that much AS5.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
My computer is on 8-16 hours daily, depending on the day of week. I see my lowest AS5 temperatures after 2-4 weeks.

If you apply ICD7C as above, the only difference from AS5 is the volume of TIM. You use about half that much AS5.

The reason is because the gentleman that made the stuff says it works better when the WHOLE IHS has contact with the HS. Where as most other TIMs' dont make full100%. ICD7C is supposed to almost ooze out. The other reason for using so much TIM is to reduce the frequency of air pockets between the IHS and the HS.
All in all its very good stuff, it lowered my temps almost instantly. And if you think about it, it is almost counterintuitive that using more TIM = lower temps. WHen we all know that using too much TIM usually = higher temps.


----------



## pez

Lol, I rarely turn off my computer.

Mike, you can always put a small amount on and get a fine brush or a credit card and spread it manually.


----------



## thlnk3r

In my own experiences, I believe that TIM isn't necessarily important when both surfaces are lapped (IHS and the cooler base). I put about half of what Arctic Silver recommends...really I hardly put anything on (literally). I never saw anything above 55C (26C room ambient) when doing full load tests. I hardly noticed a difference with and without TIM. The temperature differences were only a few 1-3C higher.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

In my case, the HSF is lapped. The IHS is not nor will ever be lapped. So running bareback is impossible for me.


----------



## Hueristic

AFA Tim goes, I apply a spot on the center placeit on the hs upside down and slide the cpu a few milimeters in all directions to spread it and then take it off and look to see i have a nice thin coating and then mount apply pressure and move around again while applying pressure then clip.

This may sound like overkill and I'ts not needed for lapped surfaces but I've been doing it for so many decades that it is only a few seconds to complete.


----------



## Blitz6804

Exciting news for those who like math! I have fixed my formula regards RAM speed calculations. I have made an Excel spreadsheet with the following formula:

=IF(CEILING(((Â«MULÂ»*Â«HTTÂ»)/(((64000/(FLOOR(64000/(Â«DIVÂ»),1))/2)/200)*Â«HTTÂ»)),1)<5,5,CEILING(((Â«MULÂ»*Â«HTTÂ»)/(((64000/(FLOOR(64000/(Â«DIVÂ»),1))/2)/200)*Â«HTTÂ»)),1))

Where Â«MULÂ» is the cell containing your multiplier
Â«HTTÂ» is the cell containing your HTT
Â«DIVÂ» is the cell containing the divider you wish to find the speed for*

As I said in my blog entry when I first started working on this formula, it works for Skt's 754, 939, AM2, AM2+, and as near as I can tell, AM3.

*This is DDR speed. In other words, if you wish to find the speed of DDR333 in the bios, or 200:166, you would enter into this cell "333." If you would rather enter non-DDR dividers, delete the "/2" near the end of the formula.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


In my case, the HSF is lapped. The IHS is not nor will ever be lapped. So running bareback is impossible for me.


Why not?


----------



## Blitz6804

Why not lap the CPU? (1) I know I will break it, I am far from delicate, and (2) A lapped CPU clearly has a voided warranty.

Why not run bareback? (1) The stock flatness of an IHS is not conducive to this, and (2) I would rather have the lower temps of having TIM.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Why not lap the CPU? (1) I know I will break it, I am far from delicate, and (2) A lapped CPU clearly has a voided warranty.

Why not run bareback? (1) The stock flatness of an IHS is not conducive to this, and (2) I would rather have the lower temps of having TIM.

I was thinking of making a holder of sorts for each socket specifically for lapping purposes. Kind of like a zif socket that's not attached to anything. It would make lapping for not so delicate people easy and painless.
After the warranty is up would you consider lapping?


----------



## Blitz6804

I really should have for my Toledo chip. But instead, I wanted to save time and instead tried to decapitate it, which is exactly what ended up happening. So yes, if the warranty was up, and I desperately needed to bring down temps, then I would lap it.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Exciting news for those who like math! I have fixed my formula regards RAM speed calculations. I have made an Excel spreadsheet with the following formula:

=IF(CEILING(((Â«MULÂ»*Â«HTTÂ»)/(((64000/(ROUND(64000/Â«DIVÂ»,0))/2)/200)*Â«HTTÂ»)),1)<5,5,CEILING(((Â«MULÂ»*Â«HTTÂ»)/(((64000/(ROUND(64000/Â«DIVÂ»,0))/2)/200)*Â«HTTÂ»)),1))

Where Â«MULÂ» is the cell containing your multiplier
Â«HTTÂ» is the cell containing your HTT
Â«DIVÂ» is the cell containing the divider you wish to find the speed for*

As I said in my blog entry when I first started working on this formula, it works for Skt's 754, 939, AM2, AM2+, and as near as I can tell, AM3.

*This is DDR speed. In other words, if you wish to find the speed of DDR333 in the bios, or 200:166, you would enter into this cell "333." If you would rather enter non-DDR dividers, delete the "/2" near the end of the formula.


do you have any exact as you would enter the if statments that you can show us?


----------



## Blitz6804

Oh, I apologize. This number will give you your RAM divisor. Take your CPU speed and divide by that number to find the speed of your RAM.

To borrow Pioneerisloud's computer, I can show you my exact XLS file:










His multi (A2) is 9x. His HTT (B2) is 334. His HTx (C2) is 3. His RAM divider (D2) is DDR200 (200:100 / 100 MHz).

CPU speed (A5) is A2xB2. His hypertransport (B5) is B2xC2. His RAM divisor (C5) is the formula in question.* His RAM speed (D5) is A5/C5, rounded off to one digit. His DDR RAM speed (E5) is D5x2.

*With the cells set up as above, the formula reads:

=IF(CEILING((A5/(((64000/(FLOOR(64000/(D2),1))/2)/200)*B2)),1)<5,5,CEILING((A5/(((64000/(FLOOR(64000/(D2),1))/2)/200)*B2)),1))


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Oh, I apologize. This number will give you your RAM divisor. Take your CPU speed and divide by that number to find the speed of your RAM.

To borrow Pioneerisloud's computer, I can show you my exact XLS file:










His multi (A2) is 9x. His HTT (B2) is 334. His HTx (C2) is 3. His RAM divider (D2) is DDR200 (200:100 / 100 MHz).

CPU speed (A5) is A2xB2. His hypertransport (B5) is B2xC2. His RAM divisor (C5) is the formula in question.* His RAM speed (D5) is A2/C2, rounded off to one digit. His DDR RAM speed (E5) is D5x2.

*With the cells set up as above, the formula reads:

=IF(CEILING((A5/(((64000/(ROUND(64000/D2,0))/2)/200)*B2)),1)<5,5,CEILING((A5/(((64000/(ROUND(64000/D2,0))/2)/200)*B2)),1))

Hm, well I tried to use that formula in excell and it don't work for me. Excell tells me the formula I typed contains an error.







Arg. This is pretty cool info if I can seem to get it to work









Edit: OK so I just copied & pasted your formula and it worked but I still have a problem with Ram Speed in columb D5


----------



## Blitz6804

What is wrong with the speed in D5?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
What is wrong with the speed in D5?

When I try to divide columb A2 / C2 my ram speed does not come out correct.


----------



## Blitz6804

ARG! Typo... you should be dividing A5 by C5... modifying my post accordingly.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


ARG! Typo... you should be dividing A5 by C5... modifying my post accordingly.


Got it thanks

N2G

Edit: I was still not getting it for a minut but then I realized that you had to cut the columb D2 in half for the ddr spd to work correctly. I was trying to use it at stock w/AM2 14*200 DDR800 and was getting confused but I got it figured out when I realized your example shows how running the DDR400 ram @ half it's speed and then upping the FSB brings the ram back up somewhere close to where it should be. Thanks for explaining and correcting the typo.

This is cool









Rep + to you sir.


----------



## Blitz6804

You have a typo somewhere. The number you enter under "divider" is not cut in half.










Pioneerisloud's PC is running the DDR200 (200:100) divider. Thus, 200 in that column would be the correct number. Other programs would have you enter 100 MHz instead. This formula is not one of those.


----------



## N2Gaming

I understand Pio is running ddr200 but the overclock brings his ram back up close to ddr400. I did some AM2 equations and I liked the results. These formulas =



















































Thank you,

N2G


----------



## Blitz6804

It is interesting to note that since the lowest permissible divisor is 5, some CPUs are incapable of running their RAM at its native speed when running at stock. Fortunately for all here present, this does not happen in Socket 939. To render a computer incapable of running DDR 400 with a 200 MHz HTT you would have to have a multiplier of 4x or lower stock, which never happens.

The problem does however arise in the AM2 realm. The Athlon 64 3000+ Orleans (9x200) and the Athlon 64 X2 3600+ Brisbane (9.5x200) are both incapable of running DDR2-800 when they have a 200 MHz HTT. Other, faster processors with odd and/or non-integral multipliers would also be incapable of running DDR2-800 at stock, but decreasing the multiplier to the next even integer fixes this. (But this cannot help the 3000+ and 3600+ above, as 8x200 would yield DDR2-640.) A similar problem will happen with AM2+ CPUs and the DDR2-1066 divider and AM3 CPUs and the DDR3-1333 divider.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Blitz:

You have my information wrong my friend. I am at 200/133, which gives me DDR430 or 215MHz.


----------



## Blitz6804

You USED to be at DDR 200. If I replace the 200 with 266, it shows your RAM speed as DDR 429.4. This is close enough to 430 for government work.


----------



## Blitz6804

Darn you pez... you broke the formula. I will let you all know I fixed it though, the formula should now read:

=IF(CEILING((A5/(((64000/(FLOOR(64000/(D2),1))/2)/200)*B2)),1)<5,5,CEILING((A5/(((64000/(FLOOR(64000/(D2),1))/2)/200)*B2)),1))

(Prior to the change, the 266 divider did not work properly.)

EDIT: Okay; that is ugly. I simplified thusly:

=IF(CEILING((FLOOR(64000/(D2),1)*A5)/(B2*160),1)<5,5,CEILING((FLOOR(64000/(D2),1)*A5)/(B2*160),1))

EDITx2: Uhm, yeah... in trying to fix 266, I broke 1333. The post above is modified again to fix. Changing a Round to a Floor fixed it.

EDITx3: You can make it simpler still by using the "max" function instead of the "if" function:

=MAX(5,CEILING((FLOOR(64000/(D2),1)*A5)/(B2*160),1))


----------



## nategr8ns

Guys I kind of want to buy Granlo's board. DFI STILL has not contacted me back. I don't like this CS of theirs... I don't really want to support them by buying a new board of theirs (for any future builds, I'm staying 939 don't worry







). I may also stop recommending them to friends.
[/rant]


----------



## N2Gaming

I have been trying to overclock on my recently obtained Asus A8N32 SLI Deluxe and sometimes I get the following msg at post just after I F10 & save my new BIOS settings

Bad BIOS checksum starting bios recovery

Checking for Floppy...
Floppy not found!

Checking for CD-ROM...
CD-ROM not found!

This message keeps repeating itself.

Does any one have any idea what would be causing this.???

Thank you,

N2G

Edit:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Guys I kind of want to buy Granlo's board. DFI STILL has not contacted me back. I don't like this CS of theirs... I don't really want to support them by buying a new board of theirs (for any future builds, I'm staying 939 don't worry







). I may also stop recommending them to friends.
[/rant]


Call there customer service and get a Tech supt or RMA specialist on the phone. Don't bother w/email contact. One guy by the name of tom is pretty good if you leave a msg and don't hear back in a day call and leave another msg. They have another Tech guy there in Fremont, CA I just can't remember his name right off the top of my head. DFI use to rely a lot on DFI Street for customers with tech questions but DFI street is no longer available do to a disagreement with the DFI corporation. In any case be persistent if you want to get results.

Good luck,

N2G


----------



## Blitz6804

Your BIOS was possibly corrupted. Put in your motherboard's floppy or CD and it will automatically restore the BIOS.

nategr8ns: Yes, DFI support is slow. I usually wait 48-72 hours to get a response to one of my emails if they email me back at all. Sometimes it takes more than one attempt to get a response.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I have been trying to overclock on my recently obtained Asus A8N32 SLI Deluxe and sometimes I get the following msg at post just after I F10 & save my new BIOS settings

Bad BIOS checksum starting bios recovery

Checking for Floppy...
Floppy not found!

Checking for CD-ROM...
CD-ROM not found!

This message keeps repeating itself.

Does any one have any idea what would be causing this.???

Thank you,

N2G

Edit:

Call there customer service and get a Tech supt or RMA specialist on the phone. Don't bother w/email contact. One guy by the name of tom is pretty good if you leave a msg and don't hear back in a day call and leave another msg. They have another Tech guy there in Fremont, CA I just can't remember his name right off the top of my head. DFI use to rely a lot on DFI Street for customers with tech questions but DFI street is no longer available do to a disagreement with the DFI corporation. In any case be persistent if you want to get results.

Good luck,

N2G


 N2, go here and download the BIOS you want to use. I personally dont like using beta drivers, but if youre comfortable with them go right ahead.

Go here and download asusupdate. And use that to reflash your BIOS.

Good luck









EDIT: Both of the links take you to the same place. Just go there and input your model info, Asusupdate is in BIOS utilities.


----------



## MOCAMBO

How far do u think its possible to push my CPU 24/7 stable? I havent really done any overclocking other than the AI OS (sorry im a noob). I guess im gonna read a lot into this thread to see hows it done, but does anyone have any first hand experience tips?


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Your BIOS was possibly corrupted. Put in your motherboard's floppy or CD and it will automatically restore the BIOS.

nategr8ns: Yes, DFI support is slow. I usually wait 48-72 hours to get a response to one of my emails if they email me back at all. Sometimes it takes more than one attempt to get a response.


this is the second time I've done it, and its been about a week








I'll call when I have some free time.


----------



## Blitz6804

First off: It is a VERY bad idea to overclock via software.

All Socket 939 CPUs are clocked the same way (to once again quote myself) this is a quick rubric on what to do:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


1) Reduce CPU multiplier to 5x, reduce HT Link to 2x, reduce RAM to 200:100
2) Increase the HTT by 5 MHz
3) Run Orthos 30 minutes
4) If it passes, go to step 2; if it fails go to step 5
5) Subtract 10 MHz from the HTT you just tried and write that number down as "Max HTT"
6) Return HTT to 200, increase memory to 200:200
7) Increase the HTT by 5 MHz
8) Run Orthos 30 minutes
9) If it passes, go to step 7; if it fails go to step 10
10) Subtract 10 MHz from the HTT you just tried and write it down as "Max RAM"
11) Return the HTT to 200 and the RAM to 200:100, then set the CPU multiplier to its maximum (in your case, 10x)
12) Increase the HTT by 5 MHz
13) Run Orthos 30 minutes
14) If it passes, go to step 12; if it fails go to step *15*
15) Subtract 10 MHz from the HTT you just tried, multiply it by the multiplier in step 11, and write it down as "Max CPU"
OPTIONAL:
16) Return the HTT to 200 and the CPU multiplier to 5x, change the HT Link to 5x
17) Increase the HTT by 5 MHz
18) Run Orthos 30 minutes
19) If it passes, go to step *17*; if it fails go to step 20
20) Subtract 10 MHz from the HTT you just tried, multiply it by 5, and write it down as "Max HyperTransport"

Now we know your max CPU, max memory clock, max HyperTransport, and max HTT. If you enter those values into Gogar it will give you a good starting point for your overclock. (The boxes in Gogar correlate to step 15, step 10, step 20, and step 5 in my rubric above.)

Note, the "Max RAM" only applies for those timings. Change the timings, and you change the "Max RAM" value. Sometimes it is better to start looser and then try to tighten them down later. Note further that these all apply for the same voltages. If you increase your CPU voltage, you may increase Max CPU. If you increase your NBV or VDIMM, you may increase your Max RAM. If you increase HTV, you might increase your Max HyperTransport. Note all the mays. Voltage does not always increase the clockability.


With a 3800+ Manchester like yours, you would expect about 2400-2500 MHz as a decent OC, 2600-2700 MHz as lucky, and anything higher than that as miraculous.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MOCAMBO*


How far do u think its possible to push my CPU 24/7 stable? I havent really done any overclocking other than the AI OS (sorry im a noob). I guess im gonna read a lot into this thread to see hows it done, but does anyone have any first hand experience tips?


 I personally dont like using desktop overclocking software. I do everything through the BIOS on all of my boards including my A8N32 sli deluxe.

Go to the first pge of this thread and there will be links to overclocking how to's. Be prepared to do some reading. The more you know the less likely youll do permanent damage to it.

As for how far, I noticed consistantly with all of my CPUs' a 500mhz seems to be the average for them. Most of the time I can do that @ stock voltages. With the exception of my 3500+ venice. It takes a lot of voltage to get that thing to do a 500/600 mhz OC.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


As for how far, I noticed consistantly with all of my CPUs' a 500mhz seems to be the average for them. Most of the time I can do that @ stock voltages. With the exception of my 3500+ venice. It takes a lot of voltage to get that thing to do a 500/600 mhz OC.


I have noticed the same for my venice 3500+ single core on this board. I think I was able to get to 2700 Mhz on my dfi sli dr board. I can't remember for sure but I think that was as far as I got it on air and that was only for a suicide run for chips and giggles.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


N2, go here and download the BIOS you want to use. I personally dont like using beta drivers, but if youre comfortable with them go right ahead.

Go here and download asusupdate. And use that to reflash your BIOS.

Good luck









EDIT: Both of the links take you to the same place. Just go there and input your model info, Asusupdate is in BIOS utilities.


Thanks B.O. I have read warnings regarding Asus BIOS flashing Proceedures and from what I remember it is safer to do the flash from a Floppy drive from Post then from w/in a windows environment. Does any one know of this???

N2G


----------



## Blitz6804

DFI seems to think that. They tell you XP can use software or thumb drive, and they do not recommend using the software in Vista. (I do it all the time, but whatever.) In my experience, the Windows version is (generally) safer in that it will tell you if there is a flash fail. Then you can flash it again prior to rebooting. With the non-OS version, if the flash fails, you are now bricked on some boards.


----------



## N2Gaming

I tried guys I guess I'm just gonna have to contact Asus about it. I have win7 loaded and can't seem to figure out how to make the flash tool on a floppy any way. Oh well. the system still works it just overclocks worth beans with the bios checksum error no floppy or CD-ROM


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I have been trying to overclock on my recently obtained Asus A8N32 SLI Deluxe and sometimes I get the following msg at post just after I F10 & save my new BIOS settings

Bad BIOS checksum starting bios recovery

Checking for Floppy...
Floppy not found!

Checking for CD-ROM...
CD-ROM not found!

This message keeps repeating itself.

Does any one have any idea what would be causing this.???

N2Gaming, this message is only displayed "*sometimes*"? Are you getting a full on POST screen? Have you tried a different CMOS battery? If you have multimeter around, test the CR2032 battery. It should be at least 3.0 volts. A low voltage CMOS battery can cause the above issues.

Let us know

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, this message is only displayed "*sometimes*"? Are you getting a full on POST screen? Have you tried a different CMOS battery? If you have multimeter around, test the CR2032 battery. It should be at least 3.0 volts. A low voltage CMOS battery can cause the above issues.

Let us know

Good luck

Thank you think3r, I thought about that but quickly forgot to follow thru. I'll get the DMM out here in a bit and test the battery for voltage and then post my findings.

N2G

EDIT:

The battery is registering just under 3.0 volts so I gather it's time for a new CMOS Battery. I tested the battery w/two different DMM to make sure I get the same readings. I'll try replacing it and see if that helps my overclock any.


















Does any one know if I would have to flash the bios from this type of error or if replacing the battery clearing the cmos and reloading optimized bios settings is sufficiant to fix this problem.

Thanks again for your feed back.

N2G


----------



## Blitz6804

Unless I am mistaken, you have several other motherboards. For now, try swapping the batteries between two boards and see if it fixes the problem.


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks for reminding me blitz, I hope all the batteried did not go bad from being in the cold for so long w/o booting the board up. That can be costly to replace all the batteries.

N2G

EDIT:

I found a good battery registering at 3.02v and will continue to test my overclocking prolly tomorrow some time.

Thank you


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I found a good battery registering at 3.02v and will continue to test my overclocking prolly tomorrow some time.


N2Gaming, definitely let us know. That voltage (2.91) is pretty low for a CR2032. Hopefully this one was an easy fix.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, definitely let us know. That voltage (2.91) is pretty low for a CR2032. Hopefully this one was an easy fix.

Good luck


think3r I replaced it w/a 3.02 v battery so as soon as I get around to it I'll be sure to cry some more if that is not what it was.







I'm to bussy playing CSS right now and I'm contemplating installing Unreal 3 hear in a minute just to see how it plays on BNBB.

Thank you,

N2G


----------



## Pest

Hey guys, just saw this in the for sale section. 
939 gear $110


----------



## N2Gaming

Looks good Pest but it also looks as if we would be a day late and a dollar short.









Edit: Sorry Pez and Pest I mixed the two of you up on this post.


----------



## Pest

Yeah, he just closed it.


----------



## BlackOmega

N2, Ive flashed my BIOS on my A8N32 SLI deluxe several times through windows and have no issues. The Asusupdate tool was specifically designed for this one purpose in mind. Just shut down all non essential tasks.
Ive also flashed it from a floppy and it works just fine both ways.


----------



## lemans81

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pest*


Yeah, he just closed it.










LOL, yeah he did....I have about 8 pm's about it, got to sort through, if its still there after 8 people then I will reopen it.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pest*


Yeah, he just closed it.










I noticed

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


N2, Ive flashed my BIOS on my A8N32 SLI deluxe several times through windows and have no issues. The Asusupdate tool was specifically designed for this one purpose in mind. Just shut down all non essential tasks.
Ive also flashed it from a floppy and it works just fine both ways.



thank you BlackOmega, Yeah unfortunately I the board came by itself claiming"it's just me my self and I" so I don't have all the literature to read except for the User manual that can be D/L'd on line but I was thingking there is useually a different manual for the bios utilities.

I'll read up on the bios flash procedure tomorrow if the battery did not resolve the issues

N2G


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I noticed

Yeah unfortunately I the board came with itself claiming"it's just me my self and I" so I don't have all the literature to read except for the User manual that comes on line but there is useually a different manual for the bios utilities.

I'll read up on the bios flash tomorrow if the battery did not resolve the issues

N2G



If Im not mistaken, the online manual is exactly the same as the one that came with the board. But thats not saying much, Asus manuals leave a lot to be desired. Theyre pretty vague, as most mobo manufacturers are.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I have win7 loaded and can't seem to figure out how to make the flash tool on a floppy any way.


According to Asus, your board supports the EZ Flash feature.
Just put the bios .ROM file on a regular floppy and hit Alt + F2 during post.

Using ASUS EZ Flash to Update BIOS It's the last part on the page.

Edit: In some cases you will have to rename the .ROM, I had to rename mine to A8V.ROM before EZ Flash would accept it. Not sure if that is the case with the A8N32-SLI D.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


According to Asus, your board supports the EZ Flash feature.
Just put the bios .ROM file on a regular floppy and hit Alt + F2 during post.

Using ASUS EZ Flash to Update BIOS It's the last part on the page.

Edit: In some cases you will have to rename the .ROM, I had to rename mine to A8V.ROM before EZ Flash would accept it. Not sure if that is the case with the A8N32-SLI D.


Thanks HothBase, I'll have to try that one. I already tried to boot up with the floppy " pic's illustrated below" set as the first boot device in windows with the following files on the floppy and the system asked me to remove the floppy and press any key so that is why I have asked all the Bios Flashing questions.

edit: I'm not sure it would be safe to flash from with in Win7 so I'm only going to do it on the floppy or I'll just have to reload XP x64 over the Win7 install so that I can install from Win7. I already tried to flash while using Win7 and the flash app just turned into a quick black dos command window and dropped to the desktop so I think what I have listed above are my only two flash options. You can prolly see why I'd prefer to do the Floppy flash option. blitz metioned how it is safer from with in windows that way if the flash fails you can simply retry before you power off and ruin a good bios chip. I know there are other ways to reflash a chip but that requirs something I'm not willing to do ATM.









N2g


----------



## HothBase

If your board is as picky as mine, you are gonna have to rename that file to A8N32.ROM


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


If your board is as picky as mine, you are gonna have to rename that file to A8N32.ROM










Once again I'll have to try that if the other option you mentioned does not work. In any case I'm hoping it was all just a dead battery issue but never the less I got the board used on ebay and that can mean a number of things. So here is to hoping I got a good board and the battery was the only issue









N2G

PS: I just installed Unreal III and the music on the load up screen is tugging me toward seeing how it looks and feels. It's the same music from Unreal Tournament Game of the year addition. It pulles me in with intrigue.


----------



## HothBase

If you are wondering why you might have to rename it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ASUS*

You need to type the exact BIOS file name at the EZ Flash screen.


My board never asks me for the file name, it automatically looks for "A8V.ROM", if there is no such file, it wont flash. :swearing:
That is why I think you might have to remove the "1303". My bios originally came with a name as silly as A8V-ASUS-Deluxe-1015.ROM

Also, if you unlike me get a prompt asking for the name, A8N32 is easier to remember


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


If you are wondering why you might have to rename it.
My board never asks me for the file name, it automatically looks for "A8V.ROM", if there is no such file, it wont flash. :swearing:
That is why I think you might have to remove the "1303". My bios originally came with a name as silly as A8V-ASUS-Deluxe-1015.ROM

Also, if you unlike me get a prompt asking for the name, A8N32 is easier to remember


















UT III


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Your BIOS was possibly corrupted. Put in your motherboard's floppy or CD and it will automatically restore the BIOS.












Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Go here and download asusupdate. And use that to reflash your BIOS.












Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


First off: It is a VERY bad idea to overclock via software.












Quote:



All Socket 939 CPUs are clocked the same way (to once again quote myself) this is a quick rubric on what to do:

Quote:



Originally Posted by blitz6804 View Post
1) Reduce CPU multiplier to 5x, reduce HT Link to 2x, reduce RAM to 200:100
2) Increase the HTT by 5 MHz
3) Run Orthos 30 minutes
4) If it passes, go to step 2; if it fails go to step 5
5) Subtract 10 MHz from the HTT you just tried and write that number down as "Max HTT"
6) Return HTT to 200, increase memory to 200:200
7) Increase the HTT by 5 MHz
8) Run Orthos 30 minutes
9) If it passes, go to step 7; if it fails go to step 10
10) Subtract 10 MHz from the HTT you just tried and write it down as "Max RAM"
11) Return the HTT to 200 and the RAM to 200:100, then set the CPU multiplier to its maximum (in your case, 10x)
12) Increase the HTT by 5 MHz
13) Run Orthos 30 minutes
14) If it passes, go to step 12;* if it fails go to step 14*
15) Subtract 10 MHz from the HTT you just tried, multiply it by the multiplier in step 11, and write it down as "Max CPU"
OPTIONAL:
16) Return the HTT to 200 and the CPU multiplier to 5x, change the HT Link to 5x
17) Increase the HTT by 5 MHz
18) Run Orthos 30 minutes
19) *If it passes, go to step 16*; if it fails go to step 20
20) Subtract 10 MHz from the HTT you just tried, multiply it by 5, and write it down as "Max HyperTransport"

Now we know your max CPU, max memory clock, max HyperTransport, and max HTT. If you enter those values into Gogar it will give you a good starting point for your overclock. (The boxes in Gogar correlate to step 15, step 10, step 20, and step 5 in my rubric above.)

Note, the "Max RAM" only applies for those timings. Change the timings, and you change the "Max RAM" value. Sometimes it is better to start looser and then try to tighten them down later. Note further that these all apply for the same voltages. If you increase your CPU voltage, you may increase Max CPU. If you increase your NBV or VDIMM, you may increase your Max RAM. If you increase HTV, you might increase your Max HyperTransport. Note all the mays. Voltage does not always increase the clockability.


With a 3800+ Manchester like yours, you would expect about 2400-2500 MHz as a decent OC, 2600-2700 MHz as lucky, and anything higher than that as miraculous.


Bolded are incorrect, both will cause infinite loops.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I tried guys I guess I'm just gonna have to contact Asus about it. I have win7 loaded and can't seem to figure out how to make the flash tool on a floppy any way. Oh well. the system still works it just overclocks worth beans with the bios checksum error no *floppy or CD-ROM*



















Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, this message is only displayed "*sometimes*"? Are you getting a full on POST screen? Have you tried a different CMOS battery? If you have multimeter around, test the CR2032 battery. It should be at least 3.0 volts. A low voltage CMOS battery can cause the above issues.

















Good call! +rep

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Does any one know if I would have to flash the bios from this type of error or if replacing the battery clearing the cmos and reloading optimized bios settings is sufficiant to fix this problem.


If indead it was your battery then when you resave your bios it writes a new checksum, So no your bois is not corrupted in that case.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


But thats not saying much, Asus manuals leave a lot to be desired. Theyre pretty vague, as most mobo manufacturers are.










I always found AUA manuals to be the best of any manufacturer, Even like 15 years ago when they had a few chinese translation typo's!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


According to Asus, your board supports the EZ Flash feature.
Just put the bios .ROM file on a regular floppy and hit Alt + F2 during post.

Using ASUS EZ Flash to Update BIOS It's the last part on the page.

Edit: In some cases you will have to rename the .ROM, I had to rename mine to A8V.ROM before EZ Flash would accept it. Not sure if that is the case with the A8N32-SLI D.










+rep


----------



## Blitz6804

N2Gaming: That was actually Pest who linked the sale thread, not pez. I know I mess 'em up all the time too.

Regards flashing: I have already had a BIOS flash or two fail on me. Fortunately, I was in Windows so I told it to flash again and it took. If I were in the BIOS and did not have a dual-BIOS chip or EZ-BIOS recovery (like some DFI and Asus boards respectively) I would have bricked it. Then again, I had a problem with my Gigiabyte board once: It said write fail. Did it again, said write succeeded. On reboot, the BIOS was gone, so it had actually failed again and it lied to me.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Bolded are incorrect, both will cause infinite loops.


Those should read 15 and 17 respectively.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Gigiabyte


:swearing::swearing::swearing::swearing::swearing:


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Those should read 15 and 17 respectively.


LOL, I know. I do program in 7 languages.


----------



## Blitz6804

Just letting you know I fixed the typos in that post.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Just letting you know I fixed the typos in that post.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
:








I always found AUA manuals to be the best of any manufacturer, Even like 15 years ago when they had a few chinese translation typo's!










Of the Asus products Ive bought the manuals were ok at best. Like for my monitor, the book is 1/4" thick all it has is setup instructions. Like how to plug it in. Not what the buttons do, what the different settings are, etc.etc.
Hell it doesnt even tell you how to clean the damn thing









As for the board, the manual can be pretty vague as to what some fo the BIOS features do. Like LBA mode. the description in the manual says its either enabled or disbled, but not what LBA is









I also have an Asus case. Especially for the wiring, it shows the wires and what they go to, but not which is + or -. Just little things here and there that are pretty vague but sometimes are pretty important.

Other than that, theyre not too bad.

DFIs' manuals from what Ive noticed are a little better.


----------



## pez

Lol i haven't posted for like 5 pages now, and I get blamed for something, gah! My goal budget dropped and so did the money I have, b/c I got the lost planet deal for 5 bucks







.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Lol i haven't posted for like 5 pages now, and I get blamed for something, gah! .















































Great news for me! In the deal I got on craigslist the 775 2.66 I got is not a uni but a 805 smithfield.









Got another folding rig up with it yesterday. Now I gotta figure out how to overclock it on a GA-965P-DS3. I'm not up on gigabyte boards (or anything new for that matter







But it was free with 2 gigs ballistic 800ram so I ain't complaining!

If it beats my opty though I'm gonna be real pissed!!! (see how I stayed on topic there!







)


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*














































Great news for me! In the deal I got on craigslist the 775 2.66 I got is not a uni but a 805 smithfield.









Got another folding rig up with it yesterday. Now I gotta figure out how to overclock it on a GA-965P-DS3. I'm not up on gigabyte boards (or anything new for that matter







But it was free with 2 gigs ballistic 800ram so I ain't complaining!

If it beats my opty though I'm gonna be real pissed!!! (see how I stayed on topic there!







)











You might have to hit CTRL + F1 at the BIOS post screen to unlock the BIOS, some Gigabytes need that.

Beyond that though, its the same old song and dance as far as overclocking goes. 
Though I think the gigabytes need a bit more love to get a RAID set up also, don't quote me on that, but you don't need to worry about that since its a [email protected] rig.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


You might have to hit CTRL + F1 at the BIOS post screen to unlock the BIOS, some Gigabytes need that.

Beyond that though, its the same old song and dance as far as overclocking goes. 
Though I think the gigabytes need a bit more love to get a RAID set up also, don't quote me on that, but you don't need to worry about that since its a [email protected] rig.










yeah it's just "del" I'm just not up on the 775 socket, maybe I'll look for a club on it. Not like I can even keep up with this one!!!!!!!!









Only issue I've had so far is with the POS built in NIC. Still can't see the shares.

I'm gonna use Systool on it but on systool if the board isn't listed you have to select the nb chipset (think it's a 965) has been working great on the tyan.

My 939 tyan tiger only goes to 250 in the bios







But systool lets me go up to at least 300 (haven't tried over 290 as of yet).


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Only issue I've had so far is with the POS built in NIC. Still can't see the shares.


Hueristic, are you sure it isn't a permission issue? This is with the Gigabyte board correct?

Good luck


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Hueristic, are you sure it isn't a permission issue? This is with the Gigabyte board correct?

Good luck


Yeah that's what I thought at first but the shares are open and it browses itself but doesn't even show up on the 5 other systems. I've set this in the past with reg tweaks for hidden shares and such but this is on a clean install with nothing changed from default except I had to put in a static IP because the POS verizon dhcp is stupid and issued the same IP twice (I've *never* seen that happen before). It's a Marlin (?) chipset, never heard of it before. I'd be happy with a realtek cutrate chip over this thing! 40mb download for the drivers and remapped the advanced features to it's own dll's.







40mb for a dam 5k inf how sick is that!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Lol i haven't posted for like 5 pages now, and I get blamed for something, gah! My goal budget dropped and so did the money I have, b/c I got the lost planet deal for 5 bucks







.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


N2Gaming: That was actually Pest who linked the sale thread, not pez. I know I mess 'em up all the time too.

Regards flashing: I have already had a BIOS flash or two fail on me. Fortunately, I was in Windows so I told it to flash again and it took. If I were in the BIOS and did not have a dual-BIOS chip or EZ-BIOS recovery (like some DFI and Asus boards respectively) I would have bricked it. Then again, I had a problem with my Gigiabyte board once: It said write fail. Did it again, said write succeeded. On reboot, the BIOS was gone, so it had actually failed again and it lied to me.


Thank you blitz, I will have to go go back to edit the names. Pez I'm sorry for confusing you with Pest and vise a versa.

N2G


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Thank you blitz, I will have to go go back to edit the names. Pez I'm sorry for confusing you with Pest and vise a versa.

N2G

Been busy last 2 days, Ready to get ur race on!


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Great news for me! In the deal I got on craigslist the 775 2.66 I got is not a uni but a 805 smithfield.

Got another folding rig up with it yesterday. Now I gotta figure out how to overclock it on a GA-965P-DS3. I'm not up on gigabyte boards (or anything new for that matter But it was free with 2 gigs ballistic 800ram so I ain't complaining!

If it beats my opty though I'm gonna be real pissed!!! (see how I stayed on topic there!)


In my experience, a dual-core AMD Skt 939 will beat a Smithfield. (My sister has a Smithfield D 820. At my stock 2.2 GHz, I out performed her stock2.8 GHz.)

Some Gigabyte boards will have a limited set of features that you can set in the BIOS. After you enter the BIOS (generally F2 for Skt 775, might still be DEL) you would hit Ctrl+F1 to unlock the rest of the features. This was required on my Gigabyte to access SMART for example.

Just so you know Hueristic when/if you overclock it: Intel recommends a maximum temperature of 64.1Âº C. "Maximum" voltage is 1.400 V.


----------



## simfreak47

w00t new parts are OTW!!!!!!!!!!

PSU, and DVD drive are all I need!


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Thank you blitz, I will have to go go back to edit the names. Pez I'm sorry for confusing you with Pest and vise a versa.

N2G

It's quite alright there, sir.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
you would hit Ctrl+F1 to unlock the rest of the features. This was required on my Gigabyte to access SMART for example.

Just so you know Hueristic when/if you overclock it: Intel recommends a maximum temperature of 64.1Âº C. "Maximum" voltage is 1.400 V.

Ahhh I didn't know they had hidden settings









and the stock opty hs i got on it keeps it at [email protected] at stock when laying flat but goes to 60 when standing on side!

Thx


----------



## Blitz6804

That seems to indicate that the retention method you used is not perfect. When in the vertical orientation, the heat sink is pulling away from the IHS causing the temperature increase. Either that, or the heatpipes work better when laying down, but my money is on the first option. You should not have any major issue with temperatures, that chip is a 95 W TDP whereas your Opteron is a 110 W TDP.


----------



## N2Gaming

OK I finally got a overclock with my FSB at 253







I'll work on upping the FSB now.



N2G

Edit: Sorry that was on the A8N32 mobo and the naked A64 3500+ chip

Edit: #2 ok I had to up the volts on the cpu to boot into win7 with FSB at 260 that puts my at 2470Mhz and DDR412

BTW that little Excell overclock calculater blitz formulated works like a charm. I can see my oc results w/o using cpuz and know what the oc will be prior to making the bios changes. "sweet"

thanks again blitz


----------



## Blitz6804

Nice to see it is working. You are using the newest formulation right? That is:

=MAX(5,CEILING((FLOOR(64000/(D2),1)*A5)/(B2*160),1))

To those who wish to do by hand:

RAM Speed (not DDR) = CPU Speed / (CEILING(FLOOR(64000/Divider)*CPU Speed)/(HTT*160)) or 5; whichever is larger)

Where Ceiling means round up to the nearest integer
and Floor means round down to the nearest integer.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Nice to see it is working. You are using the newest formulation right? That is:

=MAX(5,CEILING((FLOOR(64000/(D2),1)*A5)/(B2*160),1))

To those who wish to do by hand:

RAM Speed (not DDR) = CPU Speed / (CEILING(FLOOR(64000/Divider)*CPU Speed)/(HTT*160)) or 5; whichever is larger)

Where Ceiling means round up to the nearest integer
and Floor means round down to the nearest integer.


IDK which one it is but I used the first one that worked for me.


----------



## Blitz6804

I would just double check your spreadsheet to make sure you have the newest formulation. One of the older ones could improperly calculate when given the 266 divider. (Typing it in as "=266 + 2/3" worked, but typing it in as "=266" would yield an incorrect result. The formula above is fixed for that. The formula would be much more simplified if I required people to type in 266+2/3, 333+1/3, 366+2/3, etc (corresponding to 133, 166, and 183 in a DFI BIOS) but this is better for the typical end user.)


----------



## N2Gaming

Well I'm happy to say the CMOS battery was the easy fix.

I'm sitting at 2600Mhz right now.



N2G


----------



## BlackOmega

Glad it was something easy N2.









EDIT: Are you and Hue racing on Project Torque or need 4 speed?


----------



## nategr8ns

congrats n2!

anybody else notice that we're on page 333? the HTT speed needed to achieve 3GHz on an opty 165?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Glad it was something easy N2.









EDIT: Are you and Hue racing on Project Torque or need 4 speed?

Thank you

We might get on NFS/HS in a little while. Are you interested???

Right now I am stuck at getting the oc past 2650Mhz Oh well at least I finally know that the board seems to bee A O K so far. I just enabled CPU overvolt and it helped a tad but I think I just need a unlocked cpu multi chip or at leat a opty 180 and some kick but DDR500 ram.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
congrats n2!

anybody else notice that we're on page 333? the HTT speed needed to achieve 3GHz on an opty 165?

Thank you nate up for some NFS/HS???


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
congrats n2!

anybody else notice that we're on page 333? the HTT speed needed to achieve 3GHz on an opty 165?

You must have your settings to 50 posts per page. Were actually on page 1300 something









As for the setting 334HTT will net you 3006 Mhz.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
We might get on NFS/HS in a little while.

*I am stuck at getting the oc past 2650Mhz* Oh well at least I finally know that the board seems to bee A O K so far.


450 MHz isn't a bad OC at all. You'll notice that probably from here on out the voltage steps are going to be pretty huge to get more MHz out of er. I can get mine to run @ 2850ish with some pretty ridiculous voltage running through it.

You guys check out Project Torque? Its actually not a bad game. And the best part about it is it's FREE!


----------



## nategr8ns

BO, I'm level 12 now


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
BO, I'm level 12 now









Nice







I only played for like an hour last night and got to level 6








And can you sell cars or no? I looked and looked couldn't find where to sell them.







Is there a way to switch the view from 3rd person to front bumper cam.That's always been my favorite since GT1, which I still have







.

I'll probably be on later tonight, I gotta go study for my CPR/first aid for the professional responder class. Do you use xfire or steam or anything. Ive been running a lot of my other games through steam so I can use the chat system. It works very well I must say.
I have an xfire account but I honestly cant remember the last time I used it.


----------



## nategr8ns

my steam is stein3
to try to cut down the OTness here, lets try and keep PT discussion to the PT thread







.

There is not a way to sell cars, only collect them. F1-6 switches cameras. I'm best with bumper-cam (F2) but in CTF I occasionally use the chase-cams (F4-6) to get a better view and to avoid getting bumped from the side. I enjoy driver-view also, but I only use it like 30% of the time.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


That seems to indicate that the retention method you used is not perfect. When in the vertical orientation, the heat sink is pulling away from the IHS causing the temperature increase. Either that, or the heatpipes work better when laying down, but my money is on the first option. You should not have any major issue with temperatures, that chip is a 95 W TDP whereas your Opteron is a 110 W TDP.


Yeah Had my dad by last night and he's a mechanical engineer atool maker (used to oversee the superbowl rings at Balfour amoung other things) and had him check it out because I couldn't find a problem with the mount and after 45minutes with his magnifying goggles he couldn't find an issue either. So I'm just thinking it's the design. also it is mounted 90 degrees off as that was the only way I could get it too fit in between the coils and caps. So that may be an issue also. I'll move it on all 4 sides and record the temps to find out for sure.
I have 2 new HS's on the way so this one will become a victim of some kind of mod now i'm sure.









Here's a pic for you from one of the tutorials I was gonna write on Hs modding.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Well I'm happy to say the CMOS battery was the easy fix.

I'm sitting at 2600Mhz right now.



N2G








































Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Glad it was something easy N2.









EDIT: Are you and Hue racing on Project Torque or need 4 speed?


NFS Hs u should jion us!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


You guys check out Project Torque? Its actually not a bad game. And the best part about it is it's FREE!










N2 plays it and I was going to check it out but then was gonna get grid..blah blah blah.
So anyway still haven't got my wheel pedals hooked up and really am happy with nfshs. So probally won't change till i get bored with it again. Which i never did last time, I just forgot about it when I moved and built this place. LOL

also I don't want to play a game you have to make levels!

I like even playing fields. Except N2 thinks I'm hacking cause I smoke him!






















































































EDIT ADDED pic, Ohh shoot! Pizza ready looks like I'll just be reading for awhile!


----------



## pez

ZOMG, who knew that Lost Planet isn't a horrible port and is quite playable at 30FPS? And I never thought I would've say this, but for a shooter, I love using the joystick for it. And not to mention it runs smooth on my rig







. God, I may just buy the 500 GB or higher HDD that I've been wanting, and wait a little longer to upgrade.

Slightly off topic guys, but could you guys recommend me a >or= 500GB HDD?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


ZOMG, who knew that Lost Planet isn't a horrible port and is quite playable at 30FPS? And I never thought I would've say this, but for a shooter, I love using the joystick for it. And not to mention it runs smooth on my rig







. God, I may just buy the 500 GB or higher HDD that I've been wanting, and wait a little longer to upgrade.

Slightly off topic guys, but could you guys recommend me a >or= 500GB HDD?


I use a seagate 500Gb Sata II HDD w/32Mb cache @ 7200 RPM cause it was the cheapest for the size and speed at the time. Ideal HDD is WD 16 or 32Mb cache drives they seem to be the choice for many people. I would say get a Raptor HDD but I know your on a budget and you want 500Mb or bigger so that is out of the question.

Good Luck,

N2G


----------



## nategr8ns

I'd go with the 640gb AAKS (or whatever the version is now, AAKL?, AALS?) by WD I believe... Supposed to be better than the standard 500/750 in speed.
edit: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...e=&srchInDesc=


----------



## Blitz6804

I personally have always loved Western Digital. In my entire life of PCs I have only had one drive fail on me, and Western Digital replaced it with a 50% larger drive at no cost. (I still use that drive too!) However, because I wanted size this time out, and Western Digital did not have anything over 500 GB, I went Hitachi Deskstar 750 GB. Sucker is fast! It beats out the RAID 0 setup it replaced, but granted, that was a pair of 80 GB, 2 MB cache, SATA-150 while this is is 750 GB, 32 MB cache, SATA-300.

Regards Project Torque: I just downloaded it. At 2.4 MBps. I will try it (possibly) later tonight.


----------



## Tator Tot

I have Sata 1 drives out my booty that i need to replace. Or just change into a few Matrix RAIDs (Poor mans RAID 10)


----------



## Blitz6804

I thought Matrix RAID was similar to RAID 50?

Project Torque is annoying me: Let us have you download a 950 MB file, then after you install it, download another 600 MB file! Would it kill you to make a unified installer? Rappelz did that to me too. (MapleStory does not.)


----------



## N2Gaming

Well that darn checksum error showed it's face again. I wonder if this A8N32 board is killing batteries.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I use a seagate 500Gb Sata II HDD w/32Mb cache @ 7200 RPM cause it was the cheapest for the size and speed at the time. Ideal HDD is WD 16 or 32Mb cache drives they seem to be the choice for many people. I would say get a Raptor HDD but I know your on a budget and you want 500Mb or bigger so that is out of the question.

Good Luck,

N2G


Yeah, I like my raptor







. It might only be SATA150, but I love this drive.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


I'd go with the 640gb AAKS (or whatever the version is now, AAKL?, AALS?) by WD I believe... Supposed to be better than the standard 500/750 in speed.
edit: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...e=&srchInDesc=


Any other advantage to the black one over the green besides the cache? I remember my dad getting a 500GB seagate not too long ago from newegg for $50 shipped. Maybe I'll try and find a deal. Even though I'll be buying a SATAII 7500RPM drive, it's going to be for storage only. The Raptor I have is for my OS. The 200 GIG will be for programs, and then the 500 gig will be for music and movies.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Well that darn checksum error showed it's face again. I wonder if this A8N32 board is killing batteries.


Man it's not a battery issue i think. I get it sometimes too when I have settings that my mobo seems to dislike in someway, for example pushing the fsb higher than my cpu could do. I would have replied earlied but just got home.. Which BIOS are you using? I have the 1303. You guys posted about 7 pages while I was a away loool. Club's on fire


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Any other advantage to the black one over the green besides the cache? I remember my dad getting a 500GB seagate not too long ago from newegg for $50 shipped. Maybe I'll try and find a deal. Even though I'll be buying a SATAII 7500RPM drive, it's going to be for storage only. The Raptor I have is for my OS. The 200 GIG will be for programs, and then the 500 gig will be for music and movies.


It is said that seagates are fast drives but die alot. In my entire life I used always WDs and I'm 100% happy. Once only I tried a barracuda which died in my hands also... I'd go for a WD if I were you.


----------



## Blitz6804

In Pioneerisloud's experience, the Beta BIOS can be unstable at times. 3.1 GHz ran fine with version 1303, but the newer one would cause anything over 2.9 to be unstable in Vista Ultimate SP1.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I thought Matrix RAID was similar to RAID 50?


Nope, its poor mans RAID 10, more or less. 
You simply have a RAID 1 drive, and a RAID 0 drive in the same RAID.

Most of the time, people set up a RAID 1 to be 60gb's so they can have Vista + Drivers + A little extra space just in case.

Then the rest of the total drive space is turned into a RAID 0 array, where most people put media, games, page file, whatever else.


----------



## pez

Sorry for the slight double post, but the 16mb cache 640GB WD for $70 shipped is looking mighty nice.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Sorry for the slight double post, but the 16mb cache 640GB WD for $70 shipped is looking mighty nice.


Sounds ok but can't you find a WD 640gb 32mb cache?? It would be ever better I think


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


Sounds ok but can't you find a WD 640gb 32mb cache?? It would be ever better I think


Yeah, I was contemplating it, but it's $80, which still is a really good price, but I'm gonna wait to make the purchase, so i might see it go on sale.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I thought Matrix RAID was similar to RAID 50?

Project Torque is annoying me: Let us have you download a 950 MB file, then after you install it, download another 600 MB file! Would it kill you to make a unified installer? Rappelz did that to me too. (MapleStory does not.)



















Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Well that darn checksum error showed it's face again. I wonder if this A8N32 board is killing batteries.















































I think raid 10 (1:0) Is mirrored and striped.


----------



## Blitz6804

RAID 10 is mirrored, then striped. RAID 01 is striped, then mirrored. For 4 drives and 6 drives, security is essentially the same to say nothing about speed. With 8 drives or more, it is generally more secure to have a stripe of mirrors (RAID 10), for as long as you do not both drives of a mirror, you will be okay. Granted, with RAID 01, you would need to lose two drives as well to kill it (one out of each stripe) but it is generally considered easier to lose one drive off of each stripe than to lose both drives out of one mirror. (RAID 10: With one failure, you have a 1/7 shot of bringing down the RAID. RAID 01: With one failure, you have a 1/4 shot of bringing down the RAID.)


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


my steam is stein3
to try to cut down the OTness here, lets try and keep PT discussion to the PT thread







.

There is not a way to sell cars, only collect them. F1-6 switches cameras. I'm best with bumper-cam (F2) but in CTF I occasionally use the chase-cams (F4-6) to get a better view and to avoid getting bumped from the side. I enjoy driver-view also, but I only use it like 30% of the time.


 Ok added you Nate.







Yeah front bumper cam has been my fav for a long time. If a driving game doesnt offer it, I don't play it







. Its the most realistic IMO









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Yeah Had my dad by last night and he's a mechanical engineer atool maker (used to oversee the superbowl rings at Balfour amoung other things) and had him check it out because I couldn't find a problem with the mount and after 45minutes with his magnifying goggles he couldn't find an issue either. So I'm just thinking it's the design. also it is mounted 90 degrees off as that was the only way I could get it too fit in between the coils and caps. So that may be an issue also. I'll move it on all 4 sides and record the temps to find out for sure.
I have 2 new HS's on the way so this one will become a victim of some kind of mod now i'm sure.









Here's a pic for you from one of the tutorials I was gonna write on Hs modding.














































NFS Hs u should jion us!

N2 plays it and I was going to check it out but then was gonna get grid..blah blah blah.
So anyway still haven't got my wheel pedals hooked up and really am happy with nfshs. So probally won't change till i get bored with it again. Which i never did last time, I just forgot about it when I moved and built this place. LOL

also I don't want to play a game you have to make levels!

I like even playing fields. Except N2 thinks I'm hacking cause I smoke him!






















































































EDIT ADDED pic, Ohh shoot! Pizza ready looks like I'll just be reading for awhile!


 Hue what HS is that? HAXOR! :swearing: Can you buy NFShs online?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


Man it's not a battery issue i think. I get it sometimes too when I have settings that my mobo seems to dislike in someway, for example pushing the fsb higher than my cpu could do. I would have replied earlied but just got home.. Which BIOS are you using? I have the 1303. You guys posted about 7 pages while I was a away loool. Club's on fire










MikeV_E36, good call. I was thinking that may also be one of the culprits. We know it's not the CMOS battery since we ruled out that now.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Nope, its poor mans RAID 10, more or less. 
You simply have a RAID 1 drive, and a RAID 0 drive in the same RAID.

Most of the time, people set up a RAID 1 to be 60gb's so they can have Vista + Drivers + A little extra space just in case.

Then the rest of the total drive space is turned into a RAID 0 array, where most people put media, games, page file, whatever else.


Tator Tot, are you getting the same performance as you would with a real RAID 10? Not having the parity gives you a performance benefit. Not to mention the more disks you have the higher the I/O will be.

Good luck


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator Tot, are you getting the same performance as you would with a real RAID 10? Not having the parity gives you a performance benefit. Not to mention the more disks you have the higher the I/O will be.

Good luck










Last time I did a Matrix RAID, it was similar performance. Always lower though.

But this is comparing a dedicated RAID card to a ICH10R. So its expected. I've never had a chance to test an Intel Dedicated RAID card's Matrix RAID vs RAID 10.

As for ICH10R Raid 0 vs Matrix RAID, its a little bit less. Though, its still wasn't great, I think thats a limitation of my drives though. 8mb SATA 1 drives don't give excellent RAID performance.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


8mb SATA 1 drives don't give excellent RAID performance.


Tator Tot, true but it also depends what RAID you're using, the controller and the amount of drives.

Thanks for clarifying my question above









Good luck


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator Tot, true but it also depends what RAID you're using, the controller and the amount of drives.

Thanks for clarifying my question above









Good luck


I really want to get a dedicated RAID card w/ better performance than the ICH10R, but just for RAID 0.

As I have a grand total of 5 250gb HDDs SATA 1 8mb, so I want to RAID 0 them all, then just use onboard SB750 to do a RAID 1 of 80gb 16mb SATA II drives.

I'm currently in the need of an upgrade to my encoding rig (P1 9550 @ 2.6, 4gb Mushkin H2, 8600GTS, 780G/SB700) 
So what I'm thinking is I'll make a new encoding rig w/ Phenom II x4 925, 4gb DDR3, 9800GTX+/GTS250 1gb, and then grab a 790GX board for my old encoding rig. And turn that into my file storage/backup.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


As I have a grand total of 5 250gb HDDs SATA 1 8mb, so I want to RAID 0 them all,


Tator Tot, are you sure you want to raid 0 all five drives? If one of those drives dies then your raid goes south. I'd consider throwing all five of those drives into raid 5. You would have about 930 gigs of usable space plus redundancy. Though there would be some crazy disk I/O with five drives in raid 0









Good luck


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator Tot, are you sure you want to raid 0 all five drives? If one of those drives dies then your raid goes south. I'd consider throwing all five of those drives into raid 5. You would have about 930 gigs of usable space plus redundancy. Though there would be some crazy disk I/O with five drives in raid 0









Good luck


I was condsidering that as well. I honestly have not decided. I may just keep the drives seperate with all their data, because they all have around 70gbs left on them for space.

1 holds 190gb of music, 1 holds anime, 1 holds pictures.

They all have different purposes so I just have not decided yet.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hue what HS is that? HAXOR! :swearing: Can you buy NFShs online?


939 stock one i was setting up a s a poor mans water block.
AFA NFSHS pm nate and he can set up up with the game and 'I can send you the patches and such.


----------



## MikeV_E36

I mounted 2 40mm fans on the mobo and now the hole heatpipe is really cold. One is on the shink next to the socket and the other on the NB. Also capacitors and mosfets around the socket are cold! The mobo shows 36celsius though so I'm starting to think that the thermal diode that measures the temp is somewhere else on the mobo.


----------



## thlnk3r

OT: Is anyone else in the club having troubles getting "Instant Email Notifications" on their subscribed threads?


----------



## Blitz6804

I do not subscribe to threads anymore, but when I did, I would find unsubscribing and resubscribing would sometimes fix that issue.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I do not subscribe to threads anymore, but when I did, I would find unsubscribing and resubscribing would sometimes fix that issue.


Blitz, thanks buddy. That seem to do the trick. I had over 1,600 subscribed threads. I was also thinking the large amount of threads I was subscribed in might of been causing a problem


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, now I just bookmark threads I want and check them bi-daily. Some (like this one) I check every 10-15 minutes or less.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Yeah, now I just bookmark threads I want and check them bi-daily. Some (like this one) I check every 10-15 secondsminutes or less.

Fixed that!
















OK everyone after what feels like 3 months (actually I think like a month and a half)


































I got my furnace fixed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

WEEEEE I can finish my [email protected] machines AND OC this opty till it bleeds!!!!


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Fixed that!
















OK everyone after what feels like 3 months (actually I think like a month and a half)


































I got my furnace fixed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

WEEEEE I can finish my [email protected] machines AND OC this opty till it bleeds!!!!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Fixed that!
















OK everyone after what feels like 3 months (actually I think like a month and a half)


































I got my furnace fixed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

WEEEEE I can finish my [email protected] machines AND OC this opty till it bleeds!!!!

Can you say warm and cozy?
















Edit: Heck depending on how many rigs you get folding and how high U OC that Opty you may be able to get it hot enough with just those running. I know when I'm in my computer room w/2 pc's running it stays faily comfortable in there if I close the door.


----------



## thlnk3r

N2Gaming, did you ever figure out if your overclock was causing the "boot" issues at POST?

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, did you ever figure out if your overclock was causing the "boot" issues at POST?

Good luck


well I had to leave it alone for a while. I get frustrated easy and it's better to leave it alone for a while so that I don't do any thing stupid and wreck it. I need to clear cmos agian. I need to make or buy several clear cmos swites so that i can keep going in the event I fudge the overclock like I did last knight.

When I get around to it I will check the battery voltage again. I do think the battery helped but I was very able to do a better overclock from the other night when I had a bad battery. Which reminds me. For future reference is it a good rule of thumb to make sure you have a good cmos battery before you try to flash a bios or do the two have nothing to do w/ea other?

Thank you,

N2G


----------



## MOCAMBO

So I see a lot of guides on overclocking and such.....but this is quite new to me. Could anyone just point out the guides which would be useful for me to go through?

thanks!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


For future reference is it a good rule of thumb to make sure you have a good cmos battery before you try to flash a bios or do the two have nothing to do w/ea other?


N2Gaming, having the BIOS run under it's specified voltage can cause all kinds of problems. It's advisable that you run a battery that is rated at it's correct voltage.

What kind of changes are you doing to your BIOS that requires so many CMOS resets? Simply raising the HTT (reference clock speed) in small increments shouldn't cause huge issues.

Good luck


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MOCAMBO*


So I see a lot of guides on overclocking and such.....but this is quite new to me. Could anyone just point out the guides which would be useful for me to go through?


Mocambo, for Socket 939 I usually suggest reading these guides:

http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...ing-guide.html
http://icrontic.com/articles/a64_overclocking_theory
http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...ocket-am2.html (follows AM2 but most of the procedures still apply)

Is this is your first time overclocking a Socket 939 or are you just brushing up on the documentation? The 3800+ X2 is a great processor. Do you know if you're running a Toledo or a Manchester core? The Manchester core seems to have a limit near 2.6 - 2.7Ghz. It's a very voltage hungry core so just FYI.

Let us know if you have any more questions

Good luck


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MOCAMBO*


So I see a lot of guides on overclocking and such.....but this is quite new to me. Could anyone just point out the guides which would be useful for me to go through?

thanks!



Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


If you want to do your overclock properly, something I have never done, this is how you do it:

1) Reduce CPU multiplier to 5x, reduce HT Link to 2x, reduce RAM to 200:100
2) Increase the HTT by 5 MHz
3) Run Orthos 30 minutes
4) If it passes, go to step 2; if it fails go to step 5
5) Subtract 10 MHz from the HTT you just tried and write that number down as "Max HTT"
6) Return HTT to 200, increase memory to 200:200 (or in your case, 200:166)
7) Increase the HTT by 5 MHz
8) Run Orthos 30 minutes
9) If it passes, go to step 7; if it fails go to step 10
10) Subtract 10 MHz from the HTT you just tried and write it down as "Max RAM"*
11) Return the HTT to 200 and the RAM to 200:100, then set the CPU multiplier to its maximum (in your case, 10x)
12) Increase the HTT by 5 MHz
13) Run Orthos 30 minutes
14) If it passes, go to step 12; if it fails go to step 15
15) Subtract 10 MHz from the HTT you just tried, multiply it by the multiplier in step 11, and write it down as "Max CPU"
OPTIONAL:
16) Return the HTT to 200 and the CPU multiplier to 5x, change the HT Link to 5x
17) Increase the HTT by 5 MHz
18) Run Orthos 30 minutes
19) If it passes, go to step 17; if it fails go to step 20
20) Subtract 10 MHz from the HTT you just tried, multiply it by 5, and write it down as "Max HyperTransport"

Now we know your maximum CPU speed, maximum RAM speed, and maximum HTT. There are a few programs available where you can input these three numbers and they will suggest the best course of action for you. You can also do this manually attempting to maximize the CPU speed and RAM speed knowing the limitations of your HTT. If you did the optional step, you may be inclined to try maximizing your HyperTransport (that is, preferentially keeping the CPU and/or RAM speed slower to ensure that HyperTransport is about 1000 MHz).

You will have links to said programs from someone else soon**. I always just played it by ear. Instead of worrying about the RAM speed, I worried about the RAM bandwidth. To test the RAM bandwidth, you will need a program like Everest Ultimate.

*Maximum RAM for those timings and voltage. Loosening timings tends to increase this value. Tightening timings tends to decrease this value. Increasing voltage tends to increase this value. Decreasing voltages tends to decrease this value. The effects are inelastically additive. A similar argument exists for CPU Voltage, which if your Via K8T is like mine was, is nonadjustable in your case.

**Gogar's A64 OC Optimizer for one.


There are also a few useful guides in the first post of this tread.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, having the BIOS run under it's specified voltage can cause all kinds of problems. It's advisable that you run a battery that is rated at it's correct voltage.

What kind of changes are you doing to your BIOS that requires so many CMOS resets? Simply raising the HTT (reference clock speed) in small increments shouldn't cause huge issues.

Good luck



I know but I went for the hell mary last night and tried to post with a FSB of 400

I know silly me I just wanted to find the max FSB now and I found out what it can not do now.









I get back to it in a while

Thank you,

N2G


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


For future reference is it a good rule of thumb to make sure you have a good cmos battery before you try to flash a bios or do the two have nothing to do w/ea other?N2G


It's not necessary as the 3.3v on the board is what keeps the cmos settings while running. But if you want to keep your settings when rebooting it might be a good idea.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


There are also a few useful guides in the first post of this tread.


Hoth you need to fix that flow chart you posted.


----------



## MOCAMBO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Mocambo, for Socket 939 I usually suggest reading these guides:

http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...ing-guide.html
http://icrontic.com/articles/a64_overclocking_theory
http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...ocket-am2.html (follows AM2 but most of the procedures still apply)

Is this is your first time overclocking a Socket 939 or are you just brushing up on the documentation? The 3800+ X2 is a great processor. Do you know if you're running a Toledo or a Manchester core? The Manchester core seems to have a limit near 2.6 - 2.7Ghz. It's a very voltage hungry core so just FYI.

Let us know if you have any more questions

Good luck


Hey this is my FIRST time overclocking actually, the OC in my sig was done through AI OC LOL. I have the Toledo core. thanks for the links ill look thru it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


There are also a few useful guides in the first post of this tread.


Ill look through them thanks... any other tips?


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Hoth you need to fix that flow chart you posted.










Edited, thanks!


----------



## BlackOmega

Man I have no idea what is going on with my rigs. They seem to lose connection to the internets' for no reason whatsoever. Itll be working fine then all of the sudden page cannot be displayed. 
If I restart it works just fine. Its very random, there is no rhyme or reason to it. Sometimes I can go 2 days without losing it, sometimes 2 hours. Mind you my wife's crapintosh is also hooked up to the modem/router and hers doesn't lose it. it happens with both my Asus and DFI NF4 boards. 
Any ideas?


----------



## Blitz6804

My typo lives again! The sad thing is I have posed that rubric at least 12 times now in a few different threads, and it was only on the 12th post that someone (Hueristic) noticed the typo.

Hueristic, sorry, but I have to ask: Is there a story behind the change from heuristic (a commonsense rule . . . intended to increase the probability of solving some problem) to Hueristic?

BlackOmega: Try resetting the router. This is generally done by unplugging it for 15-30s, and then plugging it back in.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Nice to see it is working. You are using the newest formulation right? That is:

=MAX(5,CEILING((FLOOR(64000/(D2),1)*A5)/(B2*160),1))

To those who wish to do by hand:

RAM Speed (not DDR) = CPU Speed / (CEILING(FLOOR(64000/Divider)*CPU Speed)/(HTT*160)) or 5; whichever is larger)

Where Ceiling means round up to the nearest integer
and Floor means round down to the nearest integer.

Hey blitz this is the formula that I'm using. maybe you can copy and past the exact formula that I should use instead to this one.

=IF(CEILING((A5/(((64000/(ROUND(64000/D2,0))/2)/200)*B2)),1)<5,5,CEILING((A5/(((64000/(ROUND(64000/D2,0))/2)/200)*B2)),1))

Thank you,

N2G


----------



## Blitz6804

It is in the post you quoted. The top formula is for Excel, the lower formula is to do it by hand.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
It is in the post you quoted. The top formula is for Excel, the lower formula is to do it by hand.

OH ok I thought it had to be an =if statement for excell. I'll try it now

Thank you,

N2G


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Man I have no idea what is going on with my rigs. They seem to lose connection to the internets' for no reason whatsoever. Itll be working fine then all of the sudden page cannot be displayed.
If I restart it works just fine. Its very random, there is no rhyme or reason to it. Sometimes I can go 2 days without losing it, sometimes 2 hours. Mind you my wife's crapintosh is also hooked up to the modem/router and hers doesn't lose it. it happens with both my Asus and DFI NF4 boards.
Any ideas?

Swap the rj45 cables and as was stated a router reboot can't hurt. also you can try putting in a static ip.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
My typo lives again! The sad thing is I have posed that rubric at least 12 times now in a few different threads, and it was only on the 12th post that someone (Hueristic) noticed the typo.

Hueristic, sorry, but I have to ask: Is there a story behind the change from heuristic (a commonsense rule . . . intended to increase the probability of solving some problem) to Hueristic?

BlackOmega: Try resetting the router. This is generally done by unplugging it for 15-30s, and then plugging it back in.

LOL yeah I noticed the typo when i first joined the club but didn't have a keyboard handy and promptly forgot about it







OH: Now it's like a virus spreading all over ! :Lachen:









AFA Hueristic it's a pun on heuristic as I am not a heuristic yet serve the same purpose. And I started using it when very few people had ever heard of a heuristic. ASAMOF no-one (Cept a select few of us) used it until the scanners started telling peops the methods used!









So there were so many morons that kept telling me i was spelling my own name wrong







I made up the lymric:
I before E except after C
and U before E when referring to ME.









Boy I bet your glad you asked!


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


OH ok I thought it had to be an =if statement for excell. I'll try it now

Thank you,

N2G


nope, just starting with an equals-sign does formulas.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I know but I went for the hell mary last night and tried to post with a FSB of 400


N2Gaming, well no wonder you had problems. The highest HTT I've seen was around 380 with Pioneer's MSI board. Not sure if that was even stable though.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Man I have no idea what is going on with my rigs. They seem to lose connection to the internets' for no reason whatsoever. Itll be working fine then all of the sudden page cannot be displayed. 
If I restart it works just fine. Its very random, there is no rhyme or reason to it. Sometimes I can go 2 days without losing it, sometimes 2 hours. Mind you my wife's crapintosh is also hooked up to the modem/router and hers doesn't lose it. it happens with both my Asus and DFI NF4 boards. 
Any ideas?


BlackOmega, are you getting "cable has been disconnected" or just a random "page cannot be displayed"? Does this issue occur when you are directly connected to your modem? Power cycling your router may help (thanks Blitz). That sometimes fixes most of my problems at home. Try also power cycling your modem.

Let us know

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


It is in the post you quoted. The top formula is for Excel, the lower formula is to do it by hand.


Thank you,

I made a little extended spread sheet w/the formula you shared w/us. I love this little thing. Check it out.

























Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


nope, just starting with an equals-sign does formulas.


Thnx nate, now I know.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, well no wonder you had problems. The highest HTT I've seen was around 380 with Pioneer's MSI board. Not sure if that was even stable though.


LOL I know I was just a little currious to see if it would post @ 400.


----------



## FnkDctr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Man I have no idea what is going on with my rigs. They seem to lose connection to the internets' for no reason whatsoever. Itll be working fine then all of the sudden page cannot be displayed. 
If I restart it works just fine. Its very random, there is no rhyme or reason to it. Sometimes I can go 2 days without losing it, sometimes 2 hours. Mind you my wife's crapintosh is also hooked up to the modem/router and hers doesn't lose it. it happens with both my Asus and DFI NF4 boards. 
Any ideas?


Yea, more than likely this is a router/ip conflict issue. More than likely your machine is prob slot 1 in the router. When the crapintosh is logged onto the internet first, it takes the primary ip address.

When you turn on your machine, you then try to log onto the main ip, and then get a conflict, which sometimes takes a upload/download type transfer to trigger the error.

I dont know how true or technical that sounded. But I always noticed this with my machines. If I turn on the gaming rig first, no problems ever. If the gaming rig is turned on second or whatever, I release and renew my ip, and im set for gaming, no problems.

as the other poster suggested, switching the cables might work. If anything is wireless, id just try to get the last ip on the router.

dsl also resets a lot, I cant stand it. Try to unplug the modem and router for 5 seconds, plug em both back in. That should sometimes help.

btw, off the subject here.. id like to mention, id like to take that 400 fsb challenge. I've heard my board can do it if anything. So mine as well try.


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Man I have no idea what is going on with my rigs. They seem to lose connection to the internets' for no reason whatsoever. Itll be working fine then all of the sudden page cannot be displayed. 
If I restart it works just fine. Its very random, there is no rhyme or reason to it. Sometimes I can go 2 days without losing it, sometimes 2 hours. Mind you my wife's crapintosh is also hooked up to the modem/router and hers doesn't lose it. it happens with both my Asus and DFI NF4 boards. 
Any ideas?


Same thing happens with my laptop, and desktop (both are on wireless)

It's probably due to the router OR modem if you're on DSL. What kind of router do you have? Try resetting / power cycling them both (unplug for 15 to 30 seconds, and then plug back in)

I get the same problems with mine.. and it's a Linksys WRT54GS. Power cycling does wonders for me

Hope I helped


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *simfreak47*


Same thing happens with my laptop, and desktop (both are on wireless)

It's probably due to the router OR modem if you're on DSL. What kind of router do you have? Try resetting / power cycling them both (unplug for 15 to 30 seconds, and then plug back in)

I get the same problems with mine.. and it's a Linksys WRT54GS. Power cycling does wonders for me

Hope I helped










That's good info. No wonder I never have any issues with my same router. I have it hooked up to the wall light switch so when I leave the room I turn the switch off and the router powers off. So basically I power reset it all the time.


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


That's good info. No wonder I never have any issues with my same router. I have it hooked up to the wall light switch so when I leave the room I turn the switch off and the router powers off. So basically I power reset it all the time.










Lol, I wish I could have a setup like that. I have to power cycle my router and modem once a week... otherwise, my net goes all funky on me.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FnkDctr*


But I always noticed this with my machines. If I turn on the gaming rig first, no problems ever. If the gaming rig is turned on second or whatever, I release and renew my ip, and im set for gaming, no problems.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *simfreak47*


Same thing happens with my laptop, and desktop (both are on wireless)


This sounds like a DHCP conflict. Make sure all computers are configured to get the IP address assigned to them by the DHCP server (router) rather than using their own IP address. If this does not help, assign static IP addresses in the router's DHCP menu. Every one of my PC devices (wired or wireless) have a static IP address assigned to them. Alternatively, you can set each PC's IP address as static and disable the DHCP function of your router, but I do not recommend this.


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
This sounds like a DHCP conflict. Make sure all computers are configured to get the IP address assigned to them by the DHCP server (router) rather than using their own IP address. If this does not help, assign static IP addresses in the router's DHCP menu. Every one of my PC devices (wired or wireless) have a static IP address assigned to them. Alternatively, you can set each PC's IP address as static and disable the DHCP function of your router, but I do not recommend this.

If I look at my laptop and my desktop, they both have different IP addresses.

Even if my laptop is off, the desktop's connection is all fubar'd, and vice versa. btw, I set each of my computers up so it's auto config (through windows, so my router or w/e gives it an IP, not me). I'm not very network savvy. lol.


----------



## Blitz6804

Can you access your WRT54GS and set the DHCP to assign static IP addresses? That is, every time your desktop tries to connect it will get the identical address. (192.168.0.100 or similar.) Do the same with the laptop, but give it a different number. (Such as 192.168.0.105.) I like to make all wired devices end in a 0 and all wireless end in a 5. That is, my desktop is 100, my laptop (wired) is 110, my laptop (wireless) is 115, my other laptop (wired) is 120, my other laptop (wireless) is 125, my 360 is 130, my PS3 is 140, my PSP is 145, et cetera.


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Can you access your WRT54GS and set the DHCP to assign static IP addresses? That is, every time your desktop tries to connect it will get the identical address. (192.168.0.100 or similar.) Do the same with the laptop, but give it a different number. (Such as 192.168.0.105.) I like to make all wired devices end in a 0 and all wireless end in a 5. That is, my desktop is 100, my laptop (wired) is 110, my laptop (wireless) is 115, my other laptop (wired) is 120, my other laptop (wireless) is 125, my 360 is 130, my PS3 is 140, my PSP is 145, et cetera.


Never actually thought of that. hmm..

The only thing in the house that's actually wired on the network is my parent's computer. (I'm only 16).

I can't seem to find a DHCP setting for static IP.. but then again, I had to set it up PPPoE because I'm on Verizon DSL. Or am I looking at something wrong here? Maybe I'm on the wrong page? I dunno. I'm not good with networking. lol. found that out the hard way.


----------



## BlackOmega

Thanks for the replies guys.







My modem doubles as a router. Its a 2wire supplied by AT&T for my DSL. (Which is WAAAY better than comcrap). Ill give rebooting it a try. If that doesnt work Ill have to swap around which port Im plugged in to and all that. If it continues Ill make AT&T send me another one. Ive already RMA'd one of these.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Thanks for the replies guys.







My modem doubles as a router. Its a 2wire supplied by AT&T for my DSL. (Which is WAAAY better than comcrap). Ill give rebooting it a try. If that doesnt work Ill have to swap around which port Im plugged in to and all that. If it continues Ill make AT&T send me another one. Ive already RMA'd one of these.


so is at&t faster then comcrap? I use comcast and I don't have any complaints except for the price...


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


so is at&t faster then comcrap? I use comcast and I don't have any complaints except for the price...


 not only is it faster, its *A LOT* more reliable. Since Ive had DSL (about 2 years), its gone down maybe twice. And 1 of those times was a modem failure (the one I rma'd). And the other time I called, they had my problem resolved in less than 10minutes. And that includes the time I was on hold. 
Aside from that, for same price as I paid to comcrap, I get 5mb download and 768kb/s. And the best part, is its consistent. I dont ever notice any slowdown liek I did with comcast when there was a lot of people online, like at the end of the business day when all the corps. are xfering data to their home servers.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


not only is it faster, its *A LOT* more reliable. Since Ive had DSL (about 2 years), its gone down maybe twice. And 1 of those times was a modem failure (the one I rma'd). And the other time I called, they had my problem resolved in less than 10minutes. And that includes the time I was on hold. 
Aside from that, for same price as I paid to comcrap, I get 5mb download and 768kb/s. And the best part, is its consistent. I dont ever notice any slowdown liek I did with comcast when there was a lot of people online, like at the end of the business day when all the corps. are xfering data to their home servers.


So does DSL requires two phone lines? If that is the case what is your cost if you don't mind me asking. I was under the impression that comcast is cheaper then paying for two phone lines plus internet service on top of that.

thank you,

N2G

Edit: Hey Pez I just bought this HDD on ebay and will pick it up prolly tomorrow some time. I'll let you know what I think of it after I get it working.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


So does DSL requires two phone lines? If that is the case what is your cost if you don't mind me asking. I was under the impression that comcast is cheaper then paying for two phone lines plus internet service on top of that.

thank you,

N2G


No dsl goes over the same twisted pair. Your thinking of ISDN. but for dsl you have to be within a certain range of a main hub. Sounds like they got the speed up there. When it first came out I had it and it was 1536k/768k.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


No dsl goes over the same twisted pair. Your thinking of ISDN. but for dsl you have to be within a certain range of a main hub. Sounds like they got the speed up there. When it first came out I had it and it was 1536k/768k.


Oh ok thank you Hueristic, I guess I'll call at&t to see what kind of packages they have in my area. Heck that means I'll have to change all my accounts email info. more head aches. :swearing:

Any way I'm getting tired of comcast's prices.

N2G


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Any way I'm getting tired of comcast's prices.

N2G


their not comsastic!?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


their not comsastic!?










you know what really burns me about comcast is they don't have the same pricing for everyone nation wide. they have diff price scheduling for diff area's of the us.

:swearing::swearing::swearing:

and no they are not comcastic they are greedistic


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


So does DSL requires two phone lines? If that is the case what is your cost if you don't mind me asking. I was under the impression that comcast is cheaper then paying for two phone lines plus internet service on top of that.

thank you,

N2G

Edit: Hey Pez I just bought this HDD on ebay and will pick it up prolly tomorrow some time. I'll let you know what I think of it after I get it working.


 Actually I pay the same for DSL + phone line as I did for cable through comcast. And you only need 1 phone line. I think my service cost $50/month. somewhere around that price range anyway.


----------



## FnkDctr

ok so off topic.. whats a good memory bandwidth to achieve with ddr?

what should I use as a standard to compare benchmarks with? I noticed a difference between sandra and everest, also versions matter.

I have gotten over 8gb/sec on everest and wonder if this is accurate or what people get as a common bandwidth on ddr?

not ddr2 btw. pc3200 ocz 400 mhz default timings 2.5-3-2-5- even though the sticker says 2-3-2-5


----------



## Blitz6804

Over 8 GBps means you are likely running 2 GB of DDR 500 with low latencies in dual-channel mode. I personally use Everest Ultimate 4.60. DDR4 has a theoretical yield of 6400 MBps in dual-channel mode.


----------



## FnkDctr

well its pc3200 rated for 400mhz. I can run it stable all day at 500mhz+ usually 530mhz. I have been trying to get to 550mhz, but cant get it stable.

I can run like [email protected] using everest 4.20 ^^ I get around 8gbs ill try with 4.60 and see what i get


----------



## Blitz6804

More or less the same. DDR-500 (PC-4000) should get around 4000 MBps. Dual-channel can as much as double that, thus, 8000 MBps. If you are running it 1:1 with your HTT, I would expect DDR2-530 to be around 8400 MBps. (By comparison, an AM2 running DDR2-800 with a 200 MHz HTT will yield about 8300 MBps.)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *simfreak47*


Lol, I wish I could have a setup like that. I have to power cycle my router and modem once a week... otherwise, my net goes all funky on me.










Simfreak47, you shouldn't have to do that so often. What kind of "funky" issues are you having?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


My modem doubles as a router. Its a 2wire supplied by AT&T for my DSL. (Which is WAAAY better than comcrap). Ill give rebooting it a try. If that doesnt work Ill have to swap around which port Im plugged in to and all that. If it continues Ill make AT&T send me another one. Ive already RMA'd one of these.


BlackOmega, see my last post. Are you getting a random "page cannot be displayed" when clicking a link or "a cable is disconnected" message? If you're having issues hitting websites have you tried different dns servers?

Good luck


----------



## Iceman0803

This thread is now "leet".......... carry on









EDIT: Figures I post that and it's the first one on page 1338 (default view) lol.


----------



## nategr8ns

lol, you're post number 13371 :3


----------



## pez

nate I'm still so curious...you got your "surprise" yet?


----------



## N2Gaming

I just don't get it guys what is the significance of this number for a post.


----------



## nategr8ns

heh, not yet pez


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Simfreak47, you shouldn't have to do that so often. What kind of "funky" issues are you having?

I can be on the internet, no problems. The next thing, I click a page and it just stops and my Network Status icon in Vista changes from the Connected (with that little blue circle) to just the 2 monitors. And it says "Local Access only" or something like that.

And I can go to my router setup, and go to "Status", and It'll say disconnected, and I click "connect".. it will be connecting for about a minute, and just stop. Other times, it will connect, say connected, and all the IP addresses from my router will be 0.0.0.0

I don't think it's my modem, because I've had it for 2+ years. It's never failed on me yet. I just got the router a few months ago. Could be that, or Verizon itself.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *simfreak47* 
I can be on the internet, no problems. The next thing, I click a page and it just stops and my Network Status icon in Vista changes from the Connected (with that little blue circle) to just the 2 monitors. And it says "Local Access only" or something like that.

And I can go to my router setup, and go to "Status", and It'll say disconnected, and I click "connect".. it will be connecting for about a minute, and just stop. Other times, it will connect, say connected, and all the IP addresses from my router will be 0.0.0.0

I don't think it's my modem, because I've had it for 2+ years. It's never failed on me yet. I just got the router a few months ago. Could be that, or Verizon itself.

reset(by that i i mean set to defaults in firmware) the router and make sure the dhcp is enabled and the lease time is set to unlimited.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *simfreak47* 
I can be on the internet, no problems. The next thing, I click a page and it just stops and my Network Status icon in Vista changes from the Connected (with that little blue circle) to just the 2 monitors. And it says "Local Access only" or something like that.

And I can go to my router setup, and go to "Status", and It'll say disconnected, and I click "connect".. it will be connecting for about a minute, and just stop. Other times, it will connect, say connected, and all the IP addresses from my router will be 0.0.0.0

I don't think it's my modem, because I've had it for 2+ years. It's never failed on me yet. I just got the router a few months ago. Could be that, or Verizon itself.

Simfreak47, as Hueristic mentioned make sure DHCP is enabled. It should be enabled already. This is always automatically enabled in the Linksys WRT54G. How many _DHCP Users_ are listed under Setup>Basic Setup? Client lease time should be right below that as well.

If your router shows up again with 0.0.0.0, power cycle *just* your Modem. This may allow your router to resolve the new IP address or the existing one that is assigned to your modem/account.

Have you tried doing a hard reset on the router? The button behind the WRT54G when pressed for 10 seconds does a hard reset. Upgrading the firmware on the device may also resolve some issues. There are several different types of WRT54G's out there that come in different versions. Your particular version may have had issues.

Is your Verizon modem also a router? Make sure that portion of it is disabled.

Good luck


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Simfreak47, as Hueristic mentioned make sure DHCP is enabled. It should be enabled already. This is always automatically enabled in the Linksys WRT54G. How many _DHCP Users_ are listed under Setup>Basic Setup? Client lease time should be right below that as well.

If your router shows up again with 0.0.0.0, power cycle *just* your Modem. This may allow your router to resolve the new IP address or the existing one that is assigned to your modem/account.

Have you tried doing a hard reset on the router? The button behind the WRT54G when pressed for 10 seconds does a hard reset. Upgrading the firmware on the device may also resolve some issues. There are several different types of WRT54G's out there that come in different versions. Your particular version may have had issues.

Is your Verizon modem also a router? Make sure that portion of it is disabled.

Good luck

The Verizon modem is just a modem. It's a Westell 6100 iirc.

I've done many hard resets. The firmware is fully updated, I did that when it was acting like this the first time about a month ago.

Here is a screenie of the main setup window. BTW, I'm in PPPoE mode. I was going through the steps from Verizon, and it said I was supposed to be in PPPoE.


----------



## Blitz6804

Just so everyone knows, Everest Ultimate 5.0 is out. It supports Windows 7 natively.


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Just so everyone knows, Everest Ultimate 5.0 is out. It supports Windows 7 natively.

Sweet!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *simfreak47*


The Verizon modem is just a modem. It's a Westell 6100 iirc.

I've done many hard resets. The firmware is fully updated, I did that when it was acting like this the first time about a month ago.

Here is a screenie of the main setup window. BTW, I'm in PPPoE mode. I was going through the steps from Verizon, and it said I was supposed to be in PPPoE.


Simfreak47, have you tried a lease time of "0" as Hueristic suggested? Are you having to use a username and password when using your PPPoE account?

Good luck


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Simfreak47, have you tried a lease time of "0" as Hueristic suggested? Are you having to use a username and password when using your PPPoE account?

Good luck


Haven't tried it yet. But for PPPoE, Username and password are required.


----------



## N2Gaming




----------



## pez

Ok guys, I've got a question, and this is because I can't find it anywhere online. My brother has a MSI K8N SLI (Platinum, I'm thinking), but I can't find out anywhere if the slots run at dual x8 or x16 while in SLI. Anyone know?


----------



## nategr8ns

Pio (Froggy actually) has one. Not sure if its the Platinum or not.


----------



## Blitz6804

I am pretty sure it uses the nVidia nForce4 SLI chipset. (As opposed to the nVidia nForce4 SLI x16 chipset.) Thus, it would be 8x/8x.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Ok guys, I've got a question, and this is because I can't find it anywhere online. My brother has a MSI K8N SLI (Platinum, I'm thinking), but I can't find out anywhere if the slots run at dual x8 or x16 while in SLI. Anyone know?

pez, what's the exact motherboard model name?

(MSI has a very confusing naming scheme; it's certainly not as straightforward as most motherboard manufacturers.)


----------



## Hueristic

MSI:turd: woops did I say that or just think it!?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, see my last post. Are you getting a random "page cannot be displayed" when clicking a link or "a cable is disconnected" message? If you're having issues hitting websites have you tried different dns servers?

Good luck


Well see here's the thing. My disconnection issues ONLY happen when browsing the net. I can game online for hours and hours and it wont do it. I only get the "page cannot be displayed" message. My status icon doesn't change however.
After I get the "page cannot be displayed" message, nothing works. Not steam or any other online client. Once I reset my comp everything's okay.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Ok guys, I've got a question, and this is because I can't find it anywhere online. My brother has a MSI K8N SLI (Platinum, I'm thinking), but I can't find out anywhere if the slots run at dual x8 or x16 while in SLI. Anyone know?

8x/8x


----------



## Blitz6804

Does this happen regardless which browser you are using? That is, does it do it in IE, Fx, Opera, Netscape, Safari, whatever you throw at it?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *simfreak47* 
Westell

:swearing::swearing::swearing:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Well see here's the thing. My disconnection issues ONLY happen when browsing the net. I can game online for hours and hours and it wont do it. I only get the "page cannot be displayed" message. My status icon doesn't change however.
After I get the "page cannot be displayed" message, nothing works. Not steam or any other online client. Once I reset my comp everything's okay.

8x/8x


Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Does this happen regardless which browser you are using? That is, does it do it in IE, Firefox, Opera, Netscape, Safari, whatever you throw at it?

My question exactly.


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Does this happen regardless which browser you are using? That is, does it do it in IE, Fx, Opera, Netscape, Safari, whatever you throw at it?


Firefox, IE, Opera. I can go to 192.168.1.1 in all three, too to check my router status, etc

Oh crap, that wasn't intended for me.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *simfreak47*


Firefox, IE, Opera. I can go to 192.168.1.1 in all three, too to check my router status, etc

Oh crap, that wasn't intended for me.


we are still waiting on an answer from the last question asked of you.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Does this happen regardless which browser you are using? That is, does it do it in IE, Fx, Opera, Netscape, Safari, whatever you throw at it?


 Yeah it seems to not make a difference. I was using IE7 exclusively as I (believe it or not) got a virus one time when firefox was updating. 
But since my disconnection issues started I re-downloaded FF and have been using that exclusively. I really like that it clears all personal data, temp files, cookies, etc. when you close it.

And my connection issues still persist.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
pez, what's the exact motherboard model name?

(MSI has a very confusing naming scheme; it's certainly not as straightforward as most motherboard manufacturers.)

That's it I think. I got the name from MSI's website, and even they didn't say the exact spec on the SLI.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
MSI:turd: woops did I say that or just think it!?









From my experience, we've had MSI mobo's in both our 2ndary comp and my bro's comp, and we've had them for over 5 years, and not a problem out of them yet.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Well see here's the thing. My disconnection issues ONLY happen when browsing the net. I can game online for hours and hours and it wont do it. I only get the "page cannot be displayed" message. My status icon doesn't change however.
After I get the "page cannot be displayed" message, nothing works. Not steam or any other online client. Once I reset my comp everything's okay.

8x/8x

Thanks black, I couldn't find it for the life of me







.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Thanks black, I couldn't find it for the life of me







.

NP Pez. I looked on several places, even read a review. Its not a bad board by any means. And everybody was pretty vague, I too checked the MSI website. I think their ambiguity about the SLI operation on the board is a clever marketing ploy. Because it does say that it has 2 slots that run @ 16x each. So people would assume that it runs @ 16x/16x with SLi enabled. When in actuality it doesn't.
But regardless, on our old boards with the 1.0 slots there really isn't going to be a huge difference with modern cards anyway.
IIRC my 3dm06 scores raised by only 700 points when I switched to the 16x slot over the 2x slot using my 4870. Not the difference I was hoping for. I was testing @ 3003mhz btw.
So now I'm contemplating whether I should put together an AM3 rig now or wait until the 945BE comes out.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


And my connection issues still persist.


My brain hurts!







I'll work with you tomorrow on this if you like.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


From my experience, we've had MSI mobo's in both our 2ndary comp and my bro's comp, and we've had them for over 5 years, and not a problem out of them yet.


There are exceptions to every rule.









My experience is from years (decades actually) of various vendors and thousands of bulk purchases. So My opinions are more on a corporate level than a user one.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


My brain hurts!







I'll work with you tomorrow on this if you like.


 Well since I've been shutting down my rig when not in use (Im not folding on my 4870) I havent had nearly as many lost connections. I think maybe once in the last 2 days, which is not bad at all. 
But if it still persists Ill be looking you up sir.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


There are exceptions to every rule.









My experience is from years (decades actually) of various vendors and thousands of bulk purchases. So My opinions are more on a corporate level than a user one.


 Your opinion does change about certain products after you've dealt with hundreds or thousands of an item. I know my opinion changed about Honda. I worked for Acura for 2.5 years and Honda for a little over a year. And in all honesty they're no better than an American car. It's the owners that are different......they all must be Mac users







they think Honda is a lifestyle or a way of being not just a damn car.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *simfreak47* 
Haven't tried it yet. But for PPPoE, Username and password are required.

Simfreak47, changing the lease time in your WRT54G takes only a few seconds to complete. All you need to do is log into your router and make the changes. Hopefully you remember your username and password. Use the default gateway IP address in your browser to access the Linksys interface.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Well see here's the thing. My disconnection issues ONLY happen when browsing the net. I can game online for hours and hours and it wont do it. I only get the "page cannot be displayed" message. My status icon doesn't change however.
After I get the "page cannot be displayed" message, nothing works. Not steam or any other online client. Once I reset my comp everything's okay.

BlackOmega, if you are getting "page cannot be displayed" but still able to play games, view friends on steam ect ect then this sounds like a DNS issue. Try the websites via IP address. If name resolution is not resolving then perhaps it's time to use different DNS servers. I've had the same problem with TimeWarner. I use 4.2.2.2 through 4.2.2.4 as your DNS. I added these in my router. I never use TW's DNS servers anymore. They seem to be very unreliable in my opinion.

Good luck guys


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, if you are getting "page cannot be displayed" but still able to play games, view friends on steam ect ect then this sounds like a DNS issue. Try the websites via IP address. If name resolution is not resolving then perhaps it's time to use different DNS servers. I've had the same problem with TimeWarner. I use 4.2.2.2 through 4.2.2.4 as your DNS. I added these in my router. I never use TW's DNS servers anymore. They seem to be very unreliable in my opinion.

Good luck guys










Perhaps I havent been clear enough. Let me reiterate. It only loses connection when browsing the web. When it loses connection, it loses everything. I cant see friends in steam, look up servers, etc. But, it never loses a connection while gaming. I could game all day long and it wouldnt lose it. Hop on the internet for a few and it drops it.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Perhaps I havent been clear enough. Let me reiterate. It only loses connection when browsing the web. When it loses connection, it loses everything. I cant see friends in steam, look up servers, etc. But, it never loses a connection while gaming. I could game all day long and it wouldnt lose it. Hop on the internet for a few and it drops it.

BlackOmega, the same thing happens to me









Try different DNS servers as stated above. It's not normal NOT to use your providers DNS servers so don't feel bad. Many of the individuals that I have spoken to at work don't even use their providers DNS servers.

Just try it and see what happens. If it doesn't resolve your problem then perhaps the issue is more related to software/hardware.

Good luck

EDIT: Forgot to ask, when this does happen are you able to ping a website? If you're unable to ping anything is a IP address still showing up? For ex. ping google.com resolves to a 74.125.45.100.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well since I've been shutting down my rig when not in use (Im not folding on my 4870) I havent had nearly as many lost connections. I think maybe once in the last 2 days, which is not bad at all. 
But if it still persists Ill be looking you up sir.

Your opinion does change about certain products after you've dealt with hundreds or thousands of an item. I know my opinion changed about Honda. I worked for Acura for 2.5 years and Honda for a little over a year. And in all honesty they're no better than an American car. It's the owners that are different......they all must be Mac users







they think Honda is a lifestyle or a way of being not just a damn car.


Does your computer go into sleep mode after you leave it idling for a while? If so, that could be it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


My brain hurts!







I'll work with you tomorrow on this if you like.

There are exceptions to every rule.









My experience is from years (decades actually) of various vendors and thousands of bulk purchases. So My opinions are more on a corporate level than a user one.


So I see.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I worked for Acura for 2.5 years and Honda for a little over a year.


You realize they are the same company right?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


It's not normal NOT to use your providers DNS servers so don't feel bad.


I have never used anything but my provider's DNS servers, I suppose I am weird. If I am not having any issues, would there be an advantage to using different DNS servers?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Does your computer go into sleep mode after you leave it idling for a while?


 That made me think of something... Windows, by default, permits the computer to shut off a hardware device that is not being used. It is possible that the bit of code that determines when it is and is not in use got fouled. To get around this, disable Windows' desire to shut it down and save power. To do this, right-click the network connection and select properties. Push the "configure..." button. Under the "Power Management" tab, uncheck "Allow the computer to disable this device to save power." Then give the computer a restart; see if that fixes it.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I have never used anything but my provider's DNS servers, I suppose I am weird. If I am not having any issues, would there be an advantage to using different DNS servers?

Blitz, I mainly changed them because webpages were coming up slow. I started getting "page cannot be display" almost instantly after clicking a link or going to a website. I spoke to a buddy of mine yesterday whom also has TW and he had to do the same thing. It seems TW's dns servers are up and down quite often. I noticed this almost every night starting around 10-11pm. It lasts for about an hour or two. Very intermittent and annoying.

EDIT: Look what I just found http://www.dslreports.com/shownews/T...-Attack-101092. I wonder if that explains why my D/L speeds have been low lately









Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Is this only Time Warner Cable in the California area or nationwide? I have Time Warner Cable Western New York. Would I have different DNSes by default?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Is this only Time Warner Cable in the California area or nationwide? I have Time Warner Cable Western New York. Would I have different DNSes by default?

Blitz6804, good question. You should have different DNS servers since you're in a completely different region. Go to your command prompt and type, "ipconfig /all". It should list your DNS servers in there. Let me know what they are and I'll check tonight to see if I have same ones.

Good luck


----------



## StormX2

lol..

With everything Overclocked on the Opty machine, my best was 9400 score? forget now.

the Core I7 everythign stock, 3 gb ram at 1333mhz and stock 8800gts
hit above 11k on XP Pro 32bit with Hyberthreading disabled.

This processor is scary fast.. Once I get a better PSU (my PC Power and Cooling 750watt was DOA) I will start figuring out how in the world to overclock this X58 fine tune the memory as well as put some clocks into the 8800 GTS since it is holding this machine back so badly lol

It is so very new to me.. There are wayy to many DRAM timing options, and a hudnred diff items that look the same to me..

SpeedFan shows my Core Temps at 19-23 idle on each core, and roughly 29-37 durring games. and still doing burn in for the Shin Etsu I have.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, the same thing happens to me









Try different DNS servers as stated above. It's not normal NOT to use your providers DNS servers so don't feel bad. Many of the individuals that I have spoken to at work don't even use their providers DNS servers.

Just try it and see what happens. If it doesn't resolve your problem then perhaps the issue is more related to software/hardware.

Good luck

EDIT: Forgot to ask, when this does happen are you able to ping a website? If you're unable to ping anything is a IP address still showing up? For ex. ping google.com resolves to a 74.125.45.100.


 I honestly cant remember if it shows an IP or not, next time it happens I'll be sure to try it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Does your computer go into sleep mode after you leave it idling for a while? If so, that could be it.


 I disabled the standby/sleep mode after I installed my 4870. For some reason after installing it, it wouldnt wake up from sleep/standby. Ive re-flashed the BIOS on the card so I can use the newest drivers, but I haven't tested it yet.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


You realize they are the same company right?


 Of course I realize they're the same company. I wouldn't have been a very good parts' manager if I didn't. Not to mention I've worked on cars for 20 years, and a lot of them were Hondas'. There's a lot of imports where I live.









But it makes you wonder, whats more American? An Acura that 75% American made built in Marysville Ohio, or a Mustang thats 65% American made and built in Mexico.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *StormX2*


SpeedFan shows my Core Temps at 19-23 idle on each core, and roughly 29-37 durring games. and still doing burn in for the Shin Etsu I have.


StormX2, congrats on the new setup. What is your room ambient temperature? Those are some pretty low temps.

Back on S939 talk. What is the lowest idle temperature you guys have seen on air? So far I'm only able to obtain 28C - 32C with my 3700+ and roughly 34C with my Opteron 170 (whom now belongs in Joe's hands). Ambient temps were around 20C for me.

Good luck


----------



## Hueristic

Just to let you guys know, In the advanced tab you can add as many dns servers as you want. Then if One failes your system will automatically query the next in the list.









Thinkr knows what he's talking about.

DSLREPORTS was my favorite site when it first opened. But It has too many peops that don't know what they are talking about giveing bad info now and when you call them on it they have the click crew that tries to gang bang you. such a shame the site itself is a wealth of info. Happens to lots of sites unfortunately. Some peops think cause they post a million times they know more than everyone else and refuse to admit when they are wrong.

Takes a man to say "Your right I'm wrong".


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Some peops think cause they post a million times they know more than everyone else and refuse to admit when they are wrong.

Takes a man to say "Your right I'm wrong".










Hueristic, that actually happened to me twice yesterday. I didn't know half multis on AM2 processors defaulted to a lower memory frequency speed. Also I didn't know that the 5200+ Brisbane came in at 2.7Ghz (13.5x).

You learn something everyday I guess


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Back on S939 talk. What is the lowest idle temperature you guys have seen on air? So far I'm only able to obtain 28C - 32C with my 3700+ and roughly 34C with my Opteron 170 (whom now belongs in Joe's hands). Ambient temps were around 20C for me.


I get 26C on core#[email protected] w/[email protected] & room temp 19C
core#1 is usually 2C higher

[email protected] idles around 35C with a load temp around 50C


----------



## StormX2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


StormX2, congrats on the new setup. What is your room ambient temperature? Those are some pretty low temps.

Back on S939 talk. What is the lowest idle temperature you guys have seen on air? So far I'm only able to obtain 28C - 32C with my 3700+ and roughly 34C with my Opteron 170 (whom now belongs in Joe's hands). Ambient temps were around 20C for me.

Good luck


Oo I remember on a nice cold day with the case open I was gaming full load at only about 22C lol! Though i never really ever knew if my temp readings were correct on the DFI or the MSI with my 3700 KABQE (just another cool machine that I have no Idea what to do with)


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


So I see.


Lol read this right after Lol good timing.


----------



## Blitz6804

Thlnk3r: 24.92.226.40/24.92.226.41 according to my router status. As expected, "ipconfig /all" returned my DNS server as being 192.168.1.1.

My Toledo at 2800 MHz idled around 34Âº C on the cooler core on a 22Âº C ambient. When CnQ kicked in, thereby dropping it to 1272 MHz, idle decreased to 28Âº C on the cooler core.

Regards half dividers: it did it in 939 as well. Half dividers and odd dividers tend to have a larger divisor than even dividers.


----------



## StormX2

ah, that day I was completely freezing btw, and the 3700 KABQE was at 2.9ghz .

I remember because I pushed FSB too far and apparently blew out a PCI Slot cus my Soundcard wouldnt work in it lol

had the 3ghz on that one but was unstable because I was not smart enough and with stock cooler.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *StormX2*


ah, that day I was completely freezing btw, and the 3700 KABQE was at 2.9ghz .

I remember because I pushed FSB too far and apparently blew out a PCI Slot cus my Soundcard wouldnt work in it lol

had the 3ghz on that one but was unstable because I was not smart enough and with stock cooler.


Wierd, Shouldn't you have your pci bus locked?


----------



## Blitz6804

Hueristic: Even with a locked PCI bus and a locked Southbridge speed, I will sometimes notice that PCI and/or USB devices become unreliable at high HTTs. How or why I have no clue.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Hueristic: Even with a locked PCI bus and a locked Southbridge speed, I will sometimes notice that PCI and/or USB devices become unreliable at high HTTs. How or why I have no clue.












me niether? wonder if it's the bridge chip heating up? I don't understand how it could kill one pci slot and not all of them????


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


StormX2, congrats on the new setup. What is your room ambient temperature? Those are some pretty low temps.

Back on S939 talk. What is the lowest idle temperature you guys have seen on air? So far I'm only able to obtain 28C - 32C with my 3700+ and roughly 34C with my Opteron 170 (whom now belongs in Joe's hands). Ambient temps were around 20C for me.

Good luck


 With the stock opty cooler and the tornado, ambient 23*C it would idle ~ 25*C. On the super cold days we had over this last winter (-10*F), I opened the window and put my rig close to it, got it down to 18*C before I froze arse off and closed the window.
Right now with my XP120 Im idling @ 29*C. Ambient is ~ 20*C.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*











me niether? wonder if it's the bridge chip heating up? I don't understand how it could kill one pci slot and not all of them????


 Thats really weird. I dont understand how youd blow out any PCI slots. Even with some of my super high HT setting Ive never had any usb or pci issues. Maybe a surge of some sort?


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


we are still waiting on an answer from the last question asked of you.


Sorry about that.

Was it thInk3r's quesion about the lease time?

Haven't done it yet, and haven't reset the router. Parents were online last night, and I didn't want to interrupt them.

When I get home, I'll do it and hopefully it'll work

thnx for being able to put up with me


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *simfreak47* 
Sorry about that.

Was it thInk3r's quesion about the lease time?

Haven't done it yet, and haven't reset the router. Parents were online last night, and I didn't want to interrupt them.

When I get home, I'll do it and hopefully it'll work

thnx for being able to put up with me


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Hueristic: Even with a locked PCI bus and a locked Southbridge speed, I will sometimes notice that PCI and/or USB devices become unreliable at high HTTs. How or why I have no clue.

Something very similar happened on my DFI SLI-DR board where my overclock made my SATA ports unresponsive when I had devices (drives) hooked up to them. Very weird

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
With the stock opty cooler and the tornado, ambient 23*C it would idle ~ 25*C. On the super cold days we had over this last winter (-10*F), I opened the window and put my rig close to it, got it down to 18*C before I froze arse off and closed the window.

BlackOmega, that is pretty darn cold...









Quote:


Originally Posted by *simfreak47* 
Was it thInk3r's quesion about the lease time?

Simfreak47, yes that is correct. Take out the "999" from the lease time and input "0". Hopefully that fixes your problem. (Original suggestion from *Hueristic*)

Good luck guys


----------



## Blitz6804

Off-topic - I like the new avatar Thlnk3r; really snazzy.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


StormX2, congrats on the new setup. What is your room ambient temperature? Those are some pretty low temps.

Back on S939 talk. What is the lowest idle temperature you guys have seen on air? So far I'm only able to obtain 28C - 32C with my 3700+ and roughly 34C with my Opteron 170 (whom now belongs in Joe's hands). Ambient temps were around 20C for me.

Good luck


Since turning my fans up to high, my idle temps are usually 31 on one core and 40 on the second. I'll take my side panel off tonight to see what it drops down to. Yesterday morning would've been a good time to do that considering it was 17F with a windchill of 7F lol. That's cold for me at least.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Off-topic - I like the new avatar Thlnk3r; really snazzy.


Blitz, lol thanks man (grabbed it off of Wikipedia actually). About your DNS servers, I had a co-worker here log into his router from work and he grabbed these:

66.75.160.63
66.75.160.64

So they are definitely different from yours. I think Southern California just has too many users. Many google searches came up with the same complaints about latencies and websites simply not showing up when using TW's DNS servers.

Good luck


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Simfreak47, yes that is correct. Take out the "999" from the lease time and input "0". Hopefully that fixes your problem. (Original suggestion from *Hueristic*)

Good luck guys


Thank you









Got my rig all up and running! ATM, I'm installing GTAIV, so I'll probably be MIA for a few hours (or days)


----------



## Blitz6804

For the record, Midway just filed Chapter 11. They are looking into the feasibility of selling the Mortal Kombat franchise to make ends meet. (I deemed this at least partially relevant given our sometimes theme.)


----------



## nategr8ns

even with the new MK?
I guess the MK "vs" games usually do suck though... How was the newest one?


----------



## N2Gaming

I'm running OCCT and my Bios, OCCT and Evererest all report the 5v rail at 4.78 give or take a couple 100th's or what ever it would be called lets just 4.80 - 4.76 volts is the range they are reading.

I'm wondering if the voltage rail would be different on the 24pin connector to the mobo then from a 4pin molex connector. I check the voltage on the molex connector and I get a solid steady 4.99v while running OCCT

The reason I ask is beause all of a sudden my system started turning off all on it's own and I'm wondering if it could be related to one of the power supply rails.

The power supply in question is one that I got on ebay and it is the corsair model 620HX.

I'm gonna try to change out the power supply and see if it corrects the auto shut down if not then I'm thinking the mobo may be defective in the PWM or something like that.

Thank you,

N2G


----------



## txtmstrjoe

N2G, which motherboard are we talking about here?

Good luck.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I'm running OCCT and my Bios, OCCT and Evererest all report the 5v rail at 4.78 give or take a couple 100th's or what ever it would be called lets just 4.80 - 4.76 volts is the range they are reading.

I'm wondering if the voltage rail would be different on the 24pin connector to the mobo then from a 4pin molex connector. I check the voltage on the molex connector and I get a solid steady 4.99v while running OCCT

The reason I ask is beause all of a sudden my system started turning off all on it's own and I'm wondering if it could be related to one of the power supply rails.

The power supply in question is one that I got on ebay and it is the corsair model 620HX.

I'm gonna try to change out the power supply and see if it corrects the auto shut down if not then I'm thinking the mobo may be defective in the PWM or something like that.

Thank you,

N2G


 Which board are you talking about? The A8N32 sli deluxe? Just so you know, if your system shuts down with out warning its usually a powersupply issue. Hows the voltage on the 12v rail?

My voltages are never on. Like right now my 5v @ 4.91, 12v @ 11.83, NB(1.5) @ 1.47, 3.3 @ 3.29. The only thing that's where it's supposed to be is the battery 3.05v.

And way off topic and out of left field, but when you guys hear someone say suppose*b*ly do you correct them or find a subtle way of saying supposedly?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Which board are you talking about? The A8N32 sli deluxe? Just so you know, if your system shuts down with out warning its usually a powersupply issue. Hows the voltage on the 12v rail?

My voltages are never on. Like right now my 5v @ 4.91, 12v @ 11.83, NB(1.5) @ 1.47, 3.3 @ 3.29. The only thing that's where it's supposed to be is the battery 3.05v.

It could be other things as well. Sometimes, a program can actually execute an illegal memory access and trigger a shutdown. (My favorite example of this is an older version of CoreTemp. There is also an older version of Everest Ultimate which manifests this problem.)

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
And way off topic and out of left field, but when you guys hear someone say suppose*b*ly do you correct them or find a subtle way of saying supposedly?

Forget subtlety. I say just say, "It's not suppose*B*ly, you nincompoop. It's suppose*D*ly. With a "D." As in "D for DaviDDDD."

Then you bop him/her on the top of the head with a closed fist.

To quote my current avatar, "Soundwave superior; Constructicons inferior."


----------



## nategr8ns

^ hahahahahaha
It irks me, but I don't usually tell them about it







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
N2G, which motherboard are we talking about here?

Good luck.









MOBO in sig. Yes I already know before you all come down on me that my system info is not current but the info I post is.







I just changed the psu out with a Brand Spankin new PSU thermaltake 700w and the 5v is now at 4.95 and looking much better so far. I will post the results of my OCCT testing in lets say 1/2 hour or so that should be more then enough time to duplicate the auto shut down problem.

I was just going to test the psu 24pin with a DMM but thought I should just swap out the PSU and go from there if the prolem persists with a NIB PSU then I know the PSU is not the issue.

In any case I still want to be able to test the PSU so when I call Corsair for RMA.


----------



## pez

Meh, taking side panel off only dropped my temp by 1C, so the lowest I got was 28C. This case has awesome airflow with these tricools







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Meh, taking side panel off only dropped my temp by 1C, so the lowest I got was 28C. This case has awesome airflow with these tricools







.

Yup Antec did a good job on making a good cooling environment inside their gaming cases. My 900 has more then plenty air flow with 5x 120mm and 1 x 200mm fans. My only complaint is it sounds like a hellicopter next to the case.









Edit:

The new ThermalTake PSU did help. I failed OCCT after almost 17 min but the system did not turn off. It would normally turn off in about 3-5 minutes of Testing OCCT


----------



## GuardianOdin

This is for Think,Blitz and the Joe

*F1-4000USU2-2GBHZ
CL 3-4-4-8 2.6V-2.8V*

Hope this helps with my RAM. I will gather my current timings and post in a few.

Some articles on the RAM I found

OverclockerClub

TechPowerUp

*RAM Timings and Sub-Timings*

*Mhz* 150=RAM/FSB:03/04
*CPC* -Disable (T2)
*Tcl* -3.0
*Trcd* -05
*Tras* -10
*Trp* -05
*Trc* -10
*Trfc* -17
*Trrd* -02
*Twr* -03
*Twtr* -02
*Trwt* -03
*Tref* -3120 Cycles
*Odd Divisor Correct* -Disable
*DRAM Bank Interleave* -Disabled

*DQS Skew Control* -Auto
*DQS Skew Value* -0
*DRAM Drive Strength* -Auto
*DRAM Data Drive Strength* -Level 3 (Reduce 15%)
*Max Async Latency* -10.0 nano seconds
*DRAM Response Time* -Fast
*Read Preamble Time* -09.0 nano seconds
*Idle Cycle Limit* -256 cycles
*Dynamic Counter* -Enable
*R/W Queue Bypass* -16x
*Bypass Max* -07x
*32 Byte Granularity* -Auto


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Yup Antec did a good job on making a good cooling environment inside their gaming cases. My 900 has more then plenty air flow with 5x 120mm and 1 x 200mm fans. My only complaint is it sounds like a hellicopter next to the case.









Edit:

The new ThermalTake PSU did help. I failed OCCT after almost 17 min but the system did not turn off. It would normally turn off in about 3-5 minutes of Testing OCCT


Yeah, surprisingly, the TriCool's on high are very bearable to me. It's usually because I have music on at all times (even when I sleep), so it's really not a big deal. I use 3 fans int he top segment, and that 120x38mm fan for the cooling of the HDD's. I mean, the TriCools are rated at 79CFM, there's no other fans that are rated that high and have a lower than 30dB rating that I've seen.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I'm running OCCT and my Bios, OCCT and Evererest all report the 5v rail at 4.78 give or take a couple 100th's or what ever it would be called lets just 4.80 - 4.76 volts is the range they are reading.


N2Gaming, as much as I like OCCT and Everest I wouldn't depend on the readings that are coming back from the power supply. If you get around to it, bust out the multimeter and check them with that. Perhaps during full load the 620HX has a rail that is dropping below spec. You can easily check the PSU during full load with a multimeter to determine this. Who knows, an internal part may have failed or is about to fail. If your machine was turning off during OCCT tests then that is definitely not normal. Are you plugged directly into the wall outlet?

GuardianOdin, I remember requesting the above info but now I can't exactly remember your particular issue. Mind going over with us again? Sorry bud









Good luck guys


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


It could be other things as well. Sometimes, a program can actually execute an illegal memory access and trigger a shutdown. (My favorite example of this is an older version of CoreTemp. There is also an older version of Everest Ultimate which manifests this problem.)

Forget subtlety. I say just say, "It's not suppose*B*ly, you nincompoop. It's suppose*D*ly. With a "D." As in "D for DaviDDDD."

Then you bop him/her on the top of the head with a closed fist.

To quote my current avatar, "Soundwave superior; Constructicons inferior."











 I usually correct people on that. I just say "supposedly." Most of the time people are like







I'm usually like







"nevermind."
Its kind of when people say good instead of well. 







*sigh* what is happening to society? People can't even talk right. Damn crappy school systems :swearing:

I think soundwave had the coolest voice ever. I've actually been trying to find sound bites of it. 
Man, that brings back memories. You ever watch the original Robotech? Quite possibly the best anime ever! How about thundercats? Voltron? Ahhhh.... the good old days.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


GuardianOdin, I remember requesting the above info but now I can't exactly remember your particular issue. Mind going over with us again? Sorry bud









Good luck guys


I had mentioned the timings are off and I couldn't remember what I had them set to before when I was running at T1. I still can not find the file that had the correct timings


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I usually correct people on that. I just say "supposedly." Most of the time people are like







I'm usually like







"nevermind."
Its kind of when people say good instead of well.







*sigh* what is happening to society? People can't even talk right. Damn crappy school systems :swearing:

I think soundwave had the coolest voice ever. I've actually been trying to find sound bites of it.
Man, that brings back memories. You ever watch the original Robotech? Quite possibly the best anime ever! How about thundercats? Voltron? Ahhhh.... the good old days.









snarf, I can't believe you brought that up! snarf.


----------



## Blitz6804

GuardianOdin: Is this of any help to you? It only has the "main timings," which I think you already have, but you never know.

Also, am I the only one to notice that the DRAM Idle Timer is always higher on a DFI as compared to a comparable non-DFI board?

Joe: Our "war" continues! *Chuckles.* For those of us who do not know, Blaster is Soundwave's counterpart on the Autobot side of the table. He is most prominently featured on the shoulder of Â«FrenzyÂ» in StormX2's avatar.

(I speak, of course, of his avatar from the old 80s spot advertising the new Blaster toy. Id est:








Now you know.)


----------



## Blitz6804

I missed this:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


And way off topic and out of left field, but when you guys hear someone say suppose*b*ly do you correct them or find a subtle way of saying supposedly?


I say leave it be. That is the way everyone I know says it. Then again, I go flipping out on them when they say "libary," "perogative," "bolth," and many other things native to the Tri-State area. (Anyone within a 2-2.5 hour drive of NYC and lives in New York, New Jersey, or Connecticut. For the record, most people I have met miss the first "T" in Connecticut, and instead, pronounce it "Connedikit.")


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


GuardianOdin: Is this of any help to you? It only has the "main timings," which I think you already have, but you never know.

Also, am I the only one to notice that the DRAM Idle Timer is always higher on a DFI as compared to a comparable non-DFI board?

Joe: Our "war" continues! *Chuckles.* For those of us who do not know, Blaster is Soundwave's counterpart on the Autobot side of the table. He is most prominently featured on the shoulder of the autobot (whose name escapes me right now) in StormX2's avatar.

(I speak, of course, of his avatar from the old 80s spot advertising the new Blaster toy. Id est:








Now you know.)


The sub-timings are messed up I believe. The DRAM Idle Time is high right now just to be safe until I can figure out where I goofed up.

The Decepticon holding Blaster is either Frenzy or Rumble, but I believe it's Frenzy.


----------



## Blitz6804

Thanks GuardianOdin... a Google image search appears to confirm it is Frenzy. (+ImgREP)


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, as much as I like OCCT and Everest I wouldn't depend on the readings that are coming back from the power supply. If you get around to it, bust out the multimeter and check them with that. Perhaps during full load the 620HX has a rail that is dropping below spec. You can easily check the PSU during full load with a multimeter to determine this. Who knows, an internal part may have failed or is about to fail. If your machine was turning off during OCCT tests then that is definitely not normal. Are you plugged directly into the wall outlet?

Good luck guys

think3r I am plugged into a 6 outlet power strip of which is plugged directly into the wall. No UPS in the equation if that is what you are think3n







.

I I'll have to google the 24 pin votage layout so that I can hook it back up and retest all of the 3.3,5 & 12 rails.

Is 4.78v low for the 5v rail?

Thank you,

N2G


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
For the record, most people I have met miss the first "T" in Connecticut, and instead, pronounce it "Connedikit.")











That's the only way I've heard it pronounced up here in Maine (actually anywhere).


----------



## Hueristic

we pronounce it connetikit (tikit as in ticket)in RI. I that makes any sense!

N2 that 5v is fine. what you really need to worry about these days is the 12v rail this is where the real draw is coming from on new systems. Hence the added ps connector since the p4's. The yellow wires 12v. If your 5v rail falls below 4.5 then you need to think about worrying (most 5v registers only need over 1.87v IIRC to function) And afa 12v I like to see it over 11.6 with load.

Quote:

1. +3.3V (orange)
2. +3.3V (orange)
3. Ground (black)
4. +5Vdc (red)
5. Ground (black)
6. +5Vdc (red)
7. Ground (black)
8. PWR-OK (gray)
9. +5V VSB standby Voltage (purple)
10. +12V (yellow)
11. +12V (yellow)
12. +3.3V (orange, brown is 3.3Vdc sense)
13. +3.3V
14. -12V (blue)
15. Ground (black)
16. PS-ON (green)
17. Ground (black)
18. Ground (black)
19. Ground (black)
20. -5V (white)
21. +5V (red)
22. +5V (red)
23. +5V (red)
24. Ground (black)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


think3r I am plugged into a 6 outlet power strip of which is plugged directly into the wall. No UPS in the equation if that is what you are think3n







.

I I'll have to google the 24 pin votage layout so that I can hook it back up and retest all of the 3.3,5 & 12 rails.

Is 4.78v low for the 5v rail?

Thank you,

N2G


Thanks Hueristic for including that.

N2Gaming, here is a guide that also explains on how to inspect the rails with a multimeter: http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/guide...ing-guide.html.

A power strip won't protect you from surges, brown outs, electrical noise ect. Over time this can damage internal components. I'd advise at least moving to a surge suppressor. If you have a decent budget then a UPS would be your best option.

Good luck


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Thanks Hueristic for including that.










I didn't want my whole post to be off topic!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*









I didn't want my whole post to be off topic!










Hueristic, not at all. The 24-pin layout was very informative


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Thanks Hueristic for including that.

N2Gaming, here is a guide that also explains on how to inspect the rails with a multimeter: http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/guide...ing-guide.html.

A power strip won't protect you from surges, brown outs, electrical noise ect. Over time this can damage internal components. I'd advise at least moving to a surge suppressor. If you have a decent budget then a UPS would be your best option.

Good luck










Think3r, You got me to thin3n again







when I looked at the link you refrenced. I googled voltage measuring points on m2n32 sli deluxe and amazingly I stumbled upon this. I think it may be related to the issue I'm having. How do I check for the EU ver. Oh NVM I think I just click on help about and it should tell me what ver I am running.

Thanks again guys,

N2G

EDIT: I'm using Version 5.00.1650 so although it's not the same ver it may be reletive to my problem???


----------



## Blitz6804

The easiest way to test the theory: Do not load Everest Ultimate. If the computer runs without crashing, then that seems to be the issue. This was suggested by Joe a while ago, as the problem sounded similar to the older versions of CoreTemp. (I was effected by the CoreTemp bug, but not the Everest Ultimate bug.)


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


The easiest way to test the theory: Do not load Everest Ultimate. If the computer runs without crashing, then that seems to be the issue. This was suggested by Joe a while ago, as the problem sounded similar to the older versions of CoreTemp. (I was effected by the CoreTemp bug, but not the Everest Ultimate bug.)


Thank you blitz, well the funny thing is I run EU while using OCCT so that I can monitor my system a little better then the monitor that is built into OCCT. Any how, here's what makes it a little puzzling to me. After I switched out the power supply the problem seemed to dissapear for the moment. Further extensive testing will have to continue to rule out either the Power Supply or the Ver of EU.

N2G


----------



## pez

well guys I got paid today and will be able to order my upgrade by this weekend, but I just remembered that I have to reformat my HDD, and I also realized that my OEM Vista 64 SP1 (the key is just plain vista 32 bit, no sp1) may not work on a new board? I think we have a couple spare copies of Vista Ultimate, so I can just grab a key from one of those, but I'm thinking you can usually get around that, b/c I've had about 3 diff versions of xp oem's from other computers work on mine...so..opinions?


----------



## Blitz6804

Microsoft's OEM license is tied to the motherboard. Replace the motherboard, you need a new OEM license. Retail can move from board to board as long as it is only on one at a time.

EDIT: It bares mentioning that if your motherboard dies, you are allowed to use a replacement motherboard shipped from the manufacturer of the same make, model, and trim. The license is silent on what happens in an end-of-life product that must be replaced with identical model on your own rather than shipped from the manufacturer.


----------



## pez

Yeah, blitz, N2 PM'ed with a "solution"







.

EDIT: Oh and BTW guys, (sorry to bring this up here, but I feel the 939 club should know first







) if any of you are interested in the mobo, ram, and CPU, pm me. My brother may be upgrading after all, as well, so it may be up for grabs, but the mobo is up for grabs regardless.


----------



## N2Gaming

OK guys I just got thru about 30 min of OCCT and all of a sudden poof black screen and all quiet on the set. No power nada zilch el zippo. It just turned off again. Well at least I know it's not related to the power supply. I will try to run OCCT w/o opening EU and see what happens. I will post my results in a little while.

N2G

Edit: another thing I am noticing is that One of my GPU's is running a steady 6 Deg. C hotter then the other. GPU 1 is running hotter then GPU 2. I'm also wondering if this could mean a gpu issue as well.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

N2G, how do you have your VCore set up? It's possible that, if you're using ASUS' "8-phase Voltage delivery system" via enabling CPU Overvolt in the BIOS (as opposed to having this option disabled), the rig could be shutting off due to unstable power delivery.

On the A8N32-SLI Deluxe (on both examples that I've owned, in fact), I've found that this vaunted feature is actually a cause of more problems than an actual advantage. My machine also shut down unexpectedly like yours (these are different incidents to the other times the rig shut down, which were attributable to other reasons such as CoreTemp or Everest Ultimate or other causes) when I had CPU Overvolt enabled.

Good luck, and hope this helps.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


N2G, how do you have your VCore set up? It's possible that, if you're using ASUS' "8-phase Voltage delivery system" via enabling CPU Overvolt in the BIOS (as opposed to having this option disabled), the rig could be shutting off due to unstable power delivery.

On the A8N32-SLI Deluxe (on both examples that I've owned, in fact), I've found that this vaunted feature is actually a cause of more problems than an actual advantage. My machine also shut down unexpectedly like yours (these are different incidents to the other times the rig shut down, which were attributable to other reasons such as CoreTemp or Everest Ultimate or other causes) when I had CPU Overvolt enabled.

Good luck, and hope this helps.










Thank you txtmstrjoe, I am not using any overvolting ATM on any board. I don't like to have to do the math when it comes to setting my primary cpu corev before I F10 and save. I have done this once already and went right back into bios to see the results and I was like





















WTH how did it go from this to over 1.5v. So needless to say I head your advice earlier in this thread with regards to the overvolt features of these Asus mobo's. So far I'm at 22 min OCCT w/o using EU. I should know here is a little while if it is going to crash on me again.

N2G


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thank you txtmstrjoe, I am not using any overvolting ATM on any board. I don't like to have to do the math when it comes to setting my primary cpu corev before I F10 and save. I have done this once already and went right back into bios to see the results and I was like





















WTH how did it go from this to over 1.5v. So needless to say I head your advice earlier in this thread with regards to the overvolt features of these Asus mobo's. So far I'm at 22 min OCCT w/o using EU. I should know here is a little while if it is going to crash on me again.

N2G


Keep us posted.









Good luck.


----------



## N2Gaming

Well so far 50 min and running strong as an ox

I found a good article about this mobo. This article claims this board to be able to hit FSB speeds of 350. I'm gonna post it over in the m2n thread but it mentions this mobo being related to the a8n32 in regards to 8 phase power exchange w/the exception for the socket breed. So if figured you might be interested.

N2G


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


N2G, how do you have your VCore set up? It's possible that, if you're using ASUS' "8-phase Voltage delivery system" via enabling CPU Overvolt in the BIOS (as opposed to having this option disabled), the rig could be shutting off due to unstable power delivery.


 ^ This actually qualifies it for RMA







Ive actually contacted Asus about not being able to set my voltage directly without it automatically reverting back to the erroneous 1.39v. They had me try a few things then sent me an RMA number. At the time I didnt have a backup board so I never sent it in. I might do that now since I have 2 spare boards.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


On the A8N32-SLI Deluxe (on both examples that I've owned, in fact), I've found that this vaunted feature is actually a cause of more problems than an actual advantage. My machine also shut down unexpectedly like yours (these are different incidents to the other times the rig shut down, which were attributable to other reasons such as CoreTemp or Everest Ultimate or other causes) when I had CPU Overvolt enabled.

Good luck, and hope this helps.










 I, personally, haven't had an issue with the A8N32's 8 phase power system. I set it and it works just fine. The variation or droop under load is the same regardless of auto voltage or 8 phase.

N2, whenever I stress test I *never* have anything else actively using the CPU. No IE7 or FF, or anything else other than the background processes that normally run anyway. That way if it crashes I know its not something that I was doing that caused the failure. 
Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks BlackOmega, So far I'm at 1h10min stable at 3120Mhz DDR891.4 So I think it is safe to say that EU was the issue. I will now try to up my OC again to prior levels of success.

I will update my results.

Thanks guys,

N2G

EDIT: I upped the FSB to 225 and now I have been running strong for about an hour at 3150Mhz and DDR900

EDIT #2: I have been running at 3220Mhz now for over 2.5 hours and OCCT rock solid. FSB of 230 * 14 and DDR920 FTW I'm gonna try to push it back to my original 3300Mhz overclock.


----------



## pez

so...before I install the new mobo, I should probably set it on the box and try it that way first, huh?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


so...before I install the new mobo, I should probably set it on the box and try it that way first, huh?


Well it is always easier to make any mobo configuration changes or cable or hardware management changes out side of the case. How ever great care and caution must be used to observe and ensure that you dont touch any electrical circuits on the board when you have power to it.

Further more it would be wise to have a power switch pluged into the front header power switch port, that is if the mobo does not already have a power and reset button built into the mobo for testing.

Additionally I would make sure that your hardware. i.e. vid cards sound cards any type of riser card for that matter are plugged in securely and you don't have any possiblity of a card being pulled loose during testing.

Good Luck,

N2G


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thanks BlackOmega, So far I'm at 1h10min stable at 3120Mhz DDR891.4 So I think it is safe to say that EU was the issue. I will now try to up my OC again to prior levels of success.

I will update my results.

Thanks guys,

N2G

EDIT: I upped the FSB to 225 and now I have been running strong for about an hour at 3150Mhz and DDR900

EDIT #2: I have been running at 3220Mhz now for over 2.5 hours and OCCT rock solid. FSB of 230 * 14 and DDR920 FTW I'm gonna try to push it back to my original 3300Mhz overclock.














Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


so...before I install the new mobo, I should probably set it on the box and try it that way first, huh?



What for? It takes like a minute to throw a mobo in a case. I would put it in there just for safety more than anything. Not only yours but the boards as well.
I just had a notion, what if the bolt holes in the mobo serve as additional grounds for the system.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thanks BlackOmega, So far I'm at 1h10min stable at 3120Mhz DDR891.4 So I think it is safe to say that EU was the issue. I will now try to up my OC again to prior levels of success.

I will update my results.

Thanks guys,

N2G

EDIT: I upped the FSB to 225 and now I have been running strong for about an hour at 3150Mhz and DDR900

EDIT #2: I have been running at 3220Mhz now for over 2.5 hours and OCCT rock solid. FSB of 230 * 14 and DDR920 FTW I'm gonna try to push it back to my original 3300Mhz overclock.




 GJ N2










Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


so...before I install the new mobo, I should probably set it on the box and try it that way first, huh?



What for? It takes like a minute to throw a mobo in a case. I would put it in there just for safety more than anything. Not only yours but the boards/components as well.
I just had a notion, what if the bolt holes in the mobo serve as additional grounds for the system.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


GJ N2









What for? It takes like a minute to throw a mobo in a case. I would put it in there just for safety more than anything. Not only yours but the boards/components as well.
I just had a notion, what if the bolt holes in the mobo serve as additional grounds for the system.


Thanks

I would think if a mobo has power and reset buttons built into the board for testing out side of the chassis then it would be considered ok to do. I don't know if the mobo has ground connections on the screw holes but they also give you red paper washers for the screws so who knows about this?

Any one?

N2G


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I don't know if the mobo has ground connections on the screw holes but they also give you red paper washers for the screws so who knows about this?


N2Gaming, when I set a board up outside of a case I typically just use the standard standoffs. I always have the boards placed on a wooden table. I've never ran into any problems doing it that way. There have been a few times when I had to do a quick test and didn't even use standoffs.

Good luck buddy


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, when I set a board up outside of a case I typically just use the standard standoffs. I always have the boards placed on a wooden table. I've never ran into any problems doing it that way. There have been a few times when I had to do a quick test and didn't even use standoffs.

Good luck buddy


OK that sounds good, I'm confused though. Are you saying that you would have standoffs in the board for grounding purposes or for mounting the board to the table & how would you ground it if you are using the standoffs for grounding the mobo?

Thank you,

N2G

Oh I think I get it now. Are you saying that you use the standoffs so that the board is elevated off the tabel. So that when you have riser cards installed on the board that they will not get knocked or bumped out of the socket?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Oh I think I get it now. Are you saying that you use the standoffs so that the board is elevated off the tabel. So that when you have riser cards installed on the board that they will not get knocked or bumped out of the socket?

N2Gaming, you got it buddy









In any case usually before I handle the board or any thing of that matter I always discharge the PSU (unplug the power cable, hit the power button several times ect ect). I try my hardest to not drag my feet while walking on the carpet









Hope that helps


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
I try my hardest to not drag my feet while walking on the carpet








Hope that helps


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Well it is always easier to make any mobo configuration changes or cable or hardware management changes out side of the case. How ever great care and caution must be used to observe and ensure that you dont touch any electrical circuits on the board when you have power to it.

Further more it would be wise to have a power switch pluged into the front header power switch port, that is if the mobo does not already have a power and reset button built into the mobo for testing.

Additionally I would make sure that your hardware. i.e. vid cards sound cards any type of riser card for that matter are plugged in securely and you don't have any possiblity of a card being pulled loose during testing.

Good Luck,

N2G

Lol I had that exact same question as soon as I read it. I was thinking...wait, how would you turn it on lol. I have no clue if the board has one of those on. Well I'll install the board, but I won't make everything pretty until I make sure it's working properly.

I've always seen people testing motherboards on the motherboard box lol.


----------



## Blitz6804

The power switch and reset switch can be replaced with a steady hand and a screwdriver. Short the two power pins temporarily to turn on. Short the two power pins for four seconds to turn off. Short the two reset pins temporarily to, well, reset.


----------



## thlnk3r

Good suggestion on the screw driver Blitz. I actually haven't tried that yet.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Lol I had that exact same question as soon as I read it. I was thinking...wait, how would you turn it on lol. I have no clue if the board has one of those on.

Pez, when testing outside of the case I just use the standard case switch. I had pulled a few from some cases that ended up in the trash. I believe they can also be purchased on the internet for real cheap. I prefer dumpster diving









Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Good suggestion on the screw driver Blitz. I actually haven't tried that yet.

Pez, when testing outside of the case I just use the standard case switch. I had pulled a few from some cases that ended up in the trash. I believe they can also be purchased on the internet for real cheap. I prefer dumpster diving









Good luck


Generally I will use a knife with a point so that I can wedge the tip in between the two pins for powering the system on. For off I just flip the power supply button. I try to stay away from the mobo as much as possible.

Dmpstrdvn







I actually knew A guy that was a speedo that was hooked on dmpstrdvn for electronics "of all things" around the silicon valley BAY AREA .


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Good suggestion on the screw driver Blitz. I actually haven't tried that yet.

Pez, when testing outside of the case I just use the standard case switch. I had pulled a few from some cases that ended up in the trash. I believe they can also be purchased on the internet for real cheap. I prefer dumpster diving









Good luck


I like making my own. 2 coper speaker wires rapped in black electrical tape. Just twist them around the pins, then tap 'em together when you want to turn on.

I used to have a few PWR/RST switches laying around. Then I moved and left most everything behind. 
And I still need to go back and get it all.


----------



## Blitz6804

N2Gaming: It is generally a bad idea to shut off a computer via unplugging (or switching off) the power supply. The knife idea is very similar to my screwdriver, which is a flat blade just large enough to bridge the gap between the two pins, if only a little more... sharp? (In another life, it was the key to my room in addition to my defacto PC screwdriver.)


----------



## simfreak47

I'm so proud of myself (well, my rig)

Check dis out!!!!






































http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=521645


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *simfreak47* 
I'm so proud of myself (well, my rig)

Check dis out!!!!





































http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=521645

GJ


----------



## simfreak47

Only gripe: 35 seconds in super pi


----------



## nategr8ns

wow, that's a feat for a 3800x2!


----------



## Blitz6804

nategr8ns: Get ahold of DFI yet?


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


wow, that's a feat for a 3800x2!


Hooray for the underdog CPU!


----------



## nategr8ns

no blitz not yet. I haven't had time the past week for much of anything...


----------



## pez

Lol yeah...I'm just going to install it in my case to reduce the trouble lol.


----------



## HothBase

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=521706
Here's my new OC for the roster, it's the best I can do with 4GB.

Regarding RAM bandwidth, how important is the write bandwidth compared to read or copy? When going from CR 1T to 2T my write went down by ~35%.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Lol yeah...I'm just going to install it in my case to reduce the trouble lol.

by far it is the safest bet when it comes to preventing accidental misshaps.


----------



## Blitz6804

HothBase: All three numbers are important. However, if you are running a 64-bit OS, I would say that 4 GB of slower RAM is better than 2 GB of faster RAM.

pez: I once bought myself another PSU because I did not do what N2Gaming suggests. I tried to boot my new PC, and it did not work. So I assumed the PSU was inadequate. (This is in my 754 to 939 transition.) So I bought another PSU, and it still did not work. I then pulled the motherboard out of the case, and it booted fine. I put it back into the case, and now it worked. Apparently, there was something shorting it out. If I had thought to test that prior to getting my new PSU, I could have saved the money. That said, I STILL do not test new components out-of-case unless something strange (id est, not POSTing) happens. Also, remember to clear the CMOS prior to booting for the first time, even though the board is coming from Newegg new and not used.


----------



## HothBase

OK, thanks!


----------



## N2Gaming

The major benefit is in the amount of time you will save if you are just making sure all your hardware is good. I like to test all my hardware first before I install it all in the case. Some times you have a bad cable or something i.e. a bad floppy or IDE cable and that harder to diagnose & replace inside a tight case.

I get frustrated easy when I spend the hour or so putting every thing together in the case and come to find out I have to rip it all back out because of a defective mobo or something else.

Good Luck Pez,

N2G


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
The major benefit is in the amount of time you will save if you are just making sure all your hardware is good. I like to test all my hardware first before I install it all in the case. Some times you have a bad cable or something i.e. a bad floppy or IDE cable and that harder to diagnose & replace inside a tight case.

I get frustrated easy when I spend the hour or so putting every thing together in the case and come to find out I have to rip it all back out because of a defective mobo or something else.

Good Luck Pez,

N2G


----------



## thlnk3r

Simfreak47 and Hothbase, I've updated the roster with your new CPU-Z validation links and overclocks.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I then pulled the motherboard out of the case, and it booted fine. I put it back into the case, and now it worked. Apparently, there was something shorting it out.


Blitz, man that has happened to me so many times with my DFI SLI-DR and my CM690 case. Sometimes I get freaked out thinking something was damaged. For me it's always been a standoff that wasn't completely screwed in enough. There has been many times where I just remove the board, remount it and it works. Ack it's annoying sometimes


----------



## Name Change

Quote:



Originally Posted by *simfreak47*


I'm so proud of myself (well, my rig)

Check dis out!!!!





































http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=521645



Nice oc on the Manny.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


HothBase: All three numbers are important. However, if you are running a 64-bit OS, I would say that 4 GB of slower RAM is better than 2 GB of faster RAM.

pez: I once bought myself another PSU because I did not do what N2Gaming suggests. I tried to boot my new PC, and it did not work. So I assumed the PSU was inadequate. (This is in my 754 to 939 transition.) So I bought another PSU, and it still did not work. I then pulled the motherboard out of the case, and it booted fine. I put it back into the case, and now it worked. Apparently, there was something shorting it out. If I had thought to test that prior to getting my new PSU, I could have saved the money. That said, I STILL do not test new components out-of-case unless something strange (id est, not POSTing) happens. Also, remember to clear the CMOS prior to booting for the first time, even though the board is coming from Newegg new and not used.


Lol...you bought a whole new PSU before you tested it outside of the case? I mean...I have more common sense than that







.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Lol...you bought a whole new PSU before you tested it outside of the case? I mean...I have more common sense than that







.

Pez, I've been in many situations where I didn't use common sense. It happens to the best of us


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Pez, I've been in many situations where I didn't use common sense. It happens to the best of us









Yup I'll contest to that. Useually my oversights &/or mistakes happen the most when I am under pressure and trying to hurry up or I am very tired and not thinking clearly.


----------



## Hueristic

Hi guys, Been real hungover today (went out for the first time since fall i think) so anyway got wrecked and was suffering all day! LOL

So anyway as far as the ground points on mobo's, They are not needed. But they do provide better grounding as all the ground points don't have to run through the ps. So it is a good practice to use them.

But make sure that the screws you select do not have large heads that may cross over onto a run on the mobo. The best screws to use have either rounded heads or countersunk ones. the reason for the red insulating washers that come with cases is because if you use a screw that's head is too large and will jump the ground to a run then this will protect the board. But if you make good screw slections they are not needed.

Back in the old days there was a major issue with the p54 to p55 chips. for some reason if you put a p55(dual plane) chip in a board that had a ground on one of the middle screw down points (Near the mem IIRC) then you would get sporadic reboots. Many companies never figure that one out. I just made the adjustment to use plastic standoffs in that spot. Buy trying to get my trainees to listen to me was like banging my head against a wall. so I let them deal with the repercussions of their stubbornness and they learned the hard way







Made for an interesting meeting when one of them wanted to pull and RMa and entire mobo order LOL. Needless to say he spent the next week pulling all the months systems he had put out there and swapping that one standoff out! Hah dork really piss3d me off. But he listened to me after that.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


the reason for the red insulating washers that come with cases is because if you use a screw that's head is too large and will jump the ground to a run then this will protect the board. But if you make good screw slections they are not needed.


None of my cases have ever come with such washers, perhaps they were too old? My newest case just turned five years old. On the other hand, with the exception of that one time with my Gigabyte, I have never had a problem with screws and shorting my motherboard.


----------



## BlackOmega

Thanx Hue, I knew there was a purpose for that metal at each screw hole. I, personally have never used those washers. Like Hue said, make good screw selections and you wont have issues.

And here's my latest happenings, I downloaded this game last night crossfire (its a total rip off of CS btw) and when I go to launch it, it crashes my smartguardian program. Which is kind of weird.

Then I decided to install Quake wars enemy territory on this HDD and see how well it performs with the 4870. To preempt this, when I was using my 9600GSOs' in the options I could choose 32x AA. So i wanted to see what this would look like on a good GPU. Well come to find out it only allows me 8x. WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON WITH ATI? Why is it in games like CSS, ETQW and others it only allows me 8xAA? Aside from that, when I first launch in to the game its liek watching a freakin slide show. Once Im on the ground its "ok". But it still seems like there is an issue. It does look nice and all especially with soft particles on.

Any ideas fellas?


----------



## Blitz6804

ATi has issues. Most games permit you to only select 4x or 8x from within game. (Civilization IV is the only one I have that lets you set it to 16x.) You can however force upwards of 32x in the Catalyst Control Center. Under 3D Settings tab and Anti-Aliasing feature, select "Wide-Tent" and slide the slider all the way to the right.


----------



## N2Gaming

Good News Ladies and Gents.

My Opty 180 survived a transplant from my DFI NF4 SLI DR system to my A8N32 SLI Deluxe mobo.









Right now I have the opty sitting just over 3Ghz at 1.520v w/DDR500 and the idle temps are ranging core 0 = 31 to 33 & core 1 = 37-39

I have not stress tested it yet I was just shooting for 3Ghz OC









Here is the screen shot of the coretemp and cpuz










*Here is the Stepping Code on my Opty 180*










*Here is the type of ram that I'm using for this Overclock*


























*I just could not resist the urge to share my cat. I took this pic today. It got pretty nice out today and we were all enjying the day outside.*


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Good News Ladies and Gents.

My Opty 180 survived a transplant from my DFI NF4 SLI DR system to my A8N32 SLI Deluxe mobo.









Right now I have the opty sitting just over 3Ghz at *1.520v* w/DDR500 and the idle temps are ranging core 0 = 31 to 33 & core 1 = 37-39

I have not stress tested it yet I was just shooting for 3Ghz OC









I'll edit and add some pic's here in a couple of minutes.





HOLY SHIZ! You'd better watch those temps like a hawk. She's gonna get hot and quick.

I bet it fails OCCT, orthos, but will pass S&M


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Good News Ladies and Gents.

My Opty 180 survived a transplant from my DFI NF4 SLI DR system to my A8N32 SLI Deluxe mobo.









Right now I have the opty sitting just over 3Ghz at 1.520v w/DDR500 and the idle temps are ranging core 0 = 31 to 33 & core 1 = 37-39

I have not stress tested it yet I was just shooting for 3Ghz OC









I'll edit and add some pic's here in a couple of minutes.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 























Thank you, I just added a few pics oh wait I forgot the screen shot LOL

I'm feeling like some vroom coming on here in a minute.


----------



## pez

Nice N2^

And as for my upgrades, I decided to wait 2-3 more paychecks and go w/ a nicer 790x/sb750 mobo, and an x3. I guess it helps that I'm not looking forward to yet another fresh install, so it keeps me going, eh? I would go ahead and start selling my rig now, but then I'd have to go back to that dreaded family computer *cringes*.


----------



## N2Gaming

thank you Pez


----------



## nategr8ns

congrats N2!
That's a sweet pic of your cat btw







.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


bet it fails OCCT, orthos, but will pass S&M


In my experience, it will be the other way around. I have given up using anything OTHER than S&M because of this. As I have said, I have overclocks that can pass anything you throw at it, including 3D Gaming, with the exception of S&M's dreaded FPU test. So, from now on, when I am doing an overclock, I boot up S&M FPU test only. It is about 30 minutes long, and checks stability a lot more thoroughly than OCCT's default one hour. Overkill? Maybe, but I cherish stability more than speed.


----------



## Hueristic

If I run [email protected] stable that's all I care about. Also I've never had a crash on a system that's [email protected] stable. As long as I downclock the gpu that is!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


In my experience, it will be the other way around. I have given up using anything OTHER than S&M because of this. As I have said, I have overclocks that can pass anything you throw at it, including 3D Gaming, with the exception of S&M's dreaded FPU test. So, from now on, when I am doing an overclock, I boot up S&M FPU test only. It is about 30 minutes long, and checks stability a lot more thoroughly than OCCT's default one hour. Overkill? Maybe, but I cherish stability more than speed.


 Same here. Except I run the L1,L2 cache tests right along with it. Ive found with my overclocks that most of the time they'll pass the FPU test but fail the L1 cache test (more often than not that is the case). Which after doing some digging around on the internet Ive found to be because of a lack of voltage. 
And man that FPU test is brutal, it gets my cpus' SOO freakin hot. I still dont let the cores go above 65*C even though technically I could let them go higher.

question about furmark. Does Furmark stress the GPU harder than normal gaming? I was running a test on my 4870 last night and man it get my GPU hot as hell, I shut it down when it gets to 75*C. I hope it doesnt get this hot during gaming cuz I'd have to run the fan @ 60% which makes it sound like there's a hairdryer in my case. :swearing:


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes, Furmark gets the card hotter than any game around. Unless you have an HD 48xx. You need to rename Furmark.exe to ETQW.exe, or else CCC will automatically downclock the card to prevent overheating. I strongly recommend increasing the fan speed if you do this though.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Yes, Furmark gets the card hotter than any game around. Unless you have an HD 48xx. You need to rename Furmark.exe to ETQW.exe, or else CCC will automatically downclock the card to prevent overheating. I strongly recommend increasing the fan speed if you do this though.

If you're doing Furmark with HD48x0 cards, then you should probably set the fan speed to 60% on them. Depending on what the card is and if it has a custom cooler.


----------



## N2Gaming

Why don't the GPU cards have a auto fan feature kind of like Cool N Quite that starts working from the first instance after you install them. That would make life much easier for me.







I don't overclock my GPU's but I also don't fool around w/the fan speeds etc. I just prefer not to mess w/it if it ain't broke don't fix it right...


----------



## Blitz6804

CCC does have automatic fan control. However, for Furmark (named as ETQW.exe) the automatic control is woefully inadequate. For regular gaming, auto fan speed does not permit the card to exceed 80Âº C. Furmark you really should set it to 100% for best results.


----------



## N2Gaming

I just got my 500G WD SATA HDD in the mail









I just have to test it for bad sectors etc before install.

Now I will be able to lnstall games on the A8N32 SLI system and really test it out.







ATM I'm using a 10G WD IDE driver and it is almost completely full just from the Win 7 install.

Pez I'll let you know what I think about the drive. I still like the 620G you found for the price.

Still it is hard to beat this price $52.95 delivered for this Retail drive "came w/all retail stuff box manual cd cable screws etc. "








Model # WD5000KSRTL "The same drive OEM would be WD5000AAKS."





































Does any one have any suggestions for testing this drive and enabling the most gig before I install it. I'm gonna play w/the WD CD that came w/it to see what kind of tools it has for testing, formatting etc.


----------



## Blitz6804

In my almost twenty years of computing I have never tested a drive's integrity before installing. That said, if you really want to do it, use the 10 GB IDE's install of Windows 7 to partition it, format it for NTFS, and then run a checkdisk on it. If it checks out, then feel free to install Windows on it.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


In my almost twenty years of computing I have never tested a drive's integrity before installing. That said, if you really want to do it, use the 10 GB IDE's install of Windows 7 to partition it, format it for NTFS, and then run a checkdisk on it. If it checks out, then feel free to install Windows on it.


Thank you blitz.

I'm hoping I can just copy the drive from one drive to the other so that I don't have to go through the intire install process again. It's so borring and time consuming.


----------



## Blitz6804

Drive cloning? It is possible, but I know not how. Txtmstrjoe and/or Thlnk3r could steer you in the right direction I believe.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Drive cloning? It is possible, but I know not how. Txtmstrjoe and/or Thlnk3r could steer you in the right direction I believe.


I was reading about coping drive to drive in the WD HDD manual but it mentioned both drives have to be formatted and that is when I stopped reading becuase it stopped making sense ATM. I use to use Norton Ghost but it was a trial version that has long since expired and will not even work if I wanted it to.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I was reading about coping drive to drive in the WD HDD manual but it mentioned both drives have to be formatted and that is when I stopped reading becuase it stopped making sense ATM. I use to use Norton Ghost but it was a trial version that has long since expired and will not even work if I wanted it to.










Use CloneZilla, its an opensource version of Norton Ghost, more or less. Its not based off of Ghost, but it functions the same.

http://www.clonezilla.com/

Also, update for today of wonders, I have a 1ghz 12hour stable OCCT overclock.


----------



## Blitz6804

Tator Tot: Should that be a .org instead of a .com? Which CPU has the 1 GHz OC? In any event, welcome to the 1 GHz club; I never could get in.


----------



## N2Gaming

downloading clonezilla live now. Let's see if it works for Win 7









Thank you


----------



## simfreak47

I'm shy of 1GHz overclock by 300MHz


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Use CloneZilla, its an opensource version of Norton Ghost, more or less. Its not based off of Ghost, but it functions the same.

http://www.clonezilla.com/

Also, update for today of wonders, I have a 1ghz 12hour stable OCCT overclock.

Hey Tator,

do you have a specific address for clonezilla I tried the one you listed above and I get a slew of sights to download from.

I downloaded clonezilla live from Softpedia and then I unzipped it but how do I make a ISO with it do I just copy the folder to the CD ROM or do I have to use ISO software to make a bootable disk?


----------



## pez

Ok, so I lied, I ordered my new parts a few minutes ago. This means my 939 stuff is for sale (the redline ddr500's and 3800+ x2).


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Ok, so I lied, I ordered my new parts a few minutes ago. This means my 939 stuff is for sale (the redline ddr500's and 3800+ x2).


Are your pants on fire???


----------



## pez

lol nah, def. not. I am def. excited for it though







.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Yes, Furmark gets the card hotter than any game around. Unless you have an HD 48xx. You need to rename Furmark.exe to ETQW.exe, or else CCC will automatically downclock the card to prevent overheating. I strongly recommend increasing the fan speed if you do this though.


 I haven't noticed an issue with it down-clocking itself. I ran it windowed to keep an eye on the temps/speeds, it stayed @ full speed the whole time.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Why don't the GPU cards have a auto fan feature kind of like Cool N Quite that starts working from the first instance after you install them. That would make life much easier for me.







I don't overclock my GPU's *but I also don't fool around w/the fan speeds etc. I just prefer not to mess w/it if it ain't broke don't fix it right*...


 Well thats not exactly true N2. More often than not the stock fan profile leaves a lot to be desired in terms of cooling. My 4870 @ default settings would idle in the mid to high 60's. Sometimes low 70's, my 9600's were the same way.

GPU manufacturers usually leave the fan speeds _really_ low to keep the cards quiet. 
Use a tool like Evga Precision to monitor and adjust clock speeds and temps. And the other bonus, it monitors your FPS/temps in every game. Its a really nice tool I wish they had something similar for ATi.









At any rate, set your fan speed to 45% and watch you temps drop.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Use a tool like Evga Precision to monitor and adjust clock speeds and temps. And the other bonus, it monitors your FPS/temps in every game. Its a really nice tool I wish they had something similar for ATi.










Isn't EVGA Precision a simplified Riva Tuner? 
How come someone hasn't done this/made it on the ATi side I wonder...maybe XFX will show us love and glory?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Isn't EVGA Precision a simplified Riva Tuner? 
How come someone hasn't done this/made it on the ATi side I wonder...maybe XFX will show us love and glory?


 Pretty much. Its a very easy to use tool, and increasing fan speed never hurt anyone. IIRC rivatuner doesn't display the FPS and temps ingame.Which is what I really like about precision. And overclocking the GPU is really easy. The only feature that they could add to it is a stability test.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Pretty much. Its a very easy to use tool, and increasing fan speed never hurt anyone. IIRC rivatuner doesn't display the FPS and temps ingame.Which is what I really like about precision. And overclocking the GPU is really easy. The only feature that they could add to it is a stability test.


Combine it with the ATi tool artifact scanner. Though as I said earlier. I like to use Furmark for GPUs, and S&M + Burn to do CPUs.

Furmark is really good for GPUs, my stress test today on my new clocks/card. In 99% load [email protected] I get 37-38*C, but when I run Furmark for stability I get 47*C, still great temps, but a huge jump. 
Idle of 27*C, room is around 21-23*C, depending on where you are at/time of day.


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks Omega.

Well for me I seem to think my XFX 8600GTS cards and my BFG 9800GT OC cards are all loud I mean if I turn all my chassis fans down and my cpu fan down I still hear my GPU fans. It kind of sucks that I cant or can I set up a fan controller on my GPU's w/temp sensors so that it is controlled manually by the push of a button or turn of a knob. I may impliment this into my BNBB build. IDK I'll have to do a little more research on the idea. I may go water all the way but water is more expensive then a fan controller. Additionally if the water failes only the cpu would suffer if I did not catch it in time. Now if my CPU, GPU & NB/SB all have water blocks then it could be very disasterouse if my water cooling failed and I did not catch it in time. i.e. I leave the room to go out to the garage and come back in to see my system up in smoke.














:swearing: At least Cheech & Chong can get a laugh from that last comment.









N2G


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
CCC does have automatic fan control. However, for Furmark (named as ETQW.exe) the automatic control is woefully inadequate.

Blitz, from what I hear this is very true. It apparently has also caused users to loose their cards in the process. The applications causes the cards to exceed 100C+ temperatures during stress testing. I for one have never tested Furmark so I don't know how true the above statement is.

N2Gaming, hurry up with the stability tests so we can change your CPU-Z validation link









In regards to your hard drive question, I sometimes use the "Data Lifeguard Diagnostics". There is a option that allows you to perform a full surface scan on the drive. Burn the .iso to a CD and boot directly to it. You should always run these types of diagnostics outside of the OS. For drive cloning you could also try the "Data Lifeguard Tools 11.2". I've used this several times when cloning drives. The utility only works on Western Digital hard drives though. Other applications that I have used were Acronis True Image and Norton Ghost.

When I receive a new drive I always run a full surface scan. I'd rather make sure the drive is good before I install the OS, applications, games ect. I don't won't to get too comfortable on a bad drive...know what I mean?

Good luck guys


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Tator Tot: Should that be a .org instead of a .com? Which CPU has the 1 GHz OC? In any event, welcome to the 1 GHz club; I never could get in.

My x2, but that single core will get their as soon as I get a chance. I found a board the other day on Fleabay, 15 minutes left, went from 5+shipping to 55+shipping. @ 3 minutes left and rising I let it go. It was a EVGA Nforce 4 Board.

As for Clonezilla.org, you are right I messed up.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Hey Tator,

do you have a specific address for clonezilla I tried the one you listed above and I get a slew of sights to download from.

I downloaded clonezilla live from Softpedia and then I unzipped it but how do I make a ISO with it do I just copy the folder to the CD ROM or do I have to use ISO software to make a bootable disk?

Yes, go to clonezilla.org. I messed up, and did it from memory, not bookmarks.

Also, I have not looked at the Clonezilla live, but if I get a chance, I will PM you with the solution if I can find it.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz, from what I hear this is very true. It apparently has also caused users to loose their cards in the process. The applications causes the cards to exceed 100C+ temperatures during stress testing. I for one have never tested Furmark so I don't know how true the above statement is.

N2Gaming, hurry up with the stability tests so we can change your CPU-Z validation link









In regards to your hard drive question, I sometimes use the "Data Lifeguard Diagnostics". There is a option that allows you to perform a full surface scan on the drive. Burn the .iso to a CD and boot directly to it. You should always run these types of diagnostics outside of the OS. For drive cloning you could also try the "Data Lifeguard Tools 11.2". I've used this several times when cloning drives. The utility only works on Western Digital hard drives though. Other applications that I have used were Acronis True Image and Norton Ghost.

When I receive a new drive I always run a full surface scan. I'd rather make sure the drive is good before I install the OS, applications, games ect. I don't won't to get too comfortable on a bad drive...know what I mean?

Good luck guys

think3r wow all at once. you must have been away for a while and just got all caught up. Thank you for all that fine detail regarding all my options listed above.

In regards to getting the system stable how long of a OCCT stabe system would you like to see. I only clocked it up to 3.0Ghz for chuckles to see if it could be done with my new hardware. In any case I would think that I can get 2.8 Stable all day and night becuase I generally run it at 2750/2760 24/7 w/o any problems.

I was gonna try WD LG Tools 11.2 earlier but the A8N32 system is running Win 7 so it would not work on that system. Presently BNBB has no ISO burner software and I plan on keeping it that way. I have had problems with games not wanting to let me load up and play because of the ISO burning app and games don't agree w/ea other. Something about the game making sure that I'm not running a ripped copy of the game. In any case I will get the DFI NF4 SLI DR system " my daily driver " back up and running with the A64 3500+ cingle core and OCZ ram so that I can do my imgburn app for making ISO files.

Thanks again,

N2G


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
In regards to getting the system stable how long of a OCCT stable system would you like to see.

N2Gaming, are you at least 1 hour OCCT stable?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I was gonna try WD LG Tools 11.2 earlier but the A8N32 system is running Win 7 so it would not work on that system.

I'm sure you know this by now but you'll need to run the WD dos version outside of Windows. Do you have another local desktop that has something other than a beta OS that might allow you to burn a .iso to a CD?

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, are you at least 1 hour OCCT stable?

I'm sure you know this by now but you'll need to run the WD dos version outside of Windows. Do you have another local desktop that has something other than a beta OS that might allow you to burn a .iso to a CD?

Good luck









OK I'll gun for 1 Hour stable OCCT and I will have to properly give my DFI system a name. So that I can properly refer to it by name and not mobo.

Please Help w/the name

Thank you,

N2G


----------



## Blitz6804

BlackOmega: It must be ran in 3D mode for maximum temperatures. I have found the highest temperatures result at your native resolution with 0xAA, or, at least a setting that pulls in excess of 50 FPS. When I pop on AA, my cards actually run cooler than with AA off. This is true of either HD 3850 (check For Sale section soon if anyone wants an upgrade from a Radeon X1000 series) or my HD 4870x2.

thlnk3r: This is why ATi put the change in the driver to automatically dial back the card. I should think a 100% fan speed should be sufficient to keep temperatures in check though. This was not, however, a problem with the HD 3850/70 (as you know) who, at full burn, only clock in at the low 70s.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Thanks Omega.

Well for me I seem to think my XFX 8600GTS cards and my BFG 9800GT OC cards are all loud I mean if I turn all my chassis fans down and my cpu fan down I still hear my GPU fans. It kind of sucks that I cant or can I set up a fan controller on my GPU's w/temp sensors so that it is controlled manually by the push of a button or turn of a knob. I may impliment this into my BNBB build. IDK I'll have to do a little more research on the idea. I may go water all the way but water is more expensive then a fan controller. Additionally if the water failes only the cpu would suffer if I did not catch it in time. Now if my CPU, GPU & NB/SB all have water blocks then it could be very disasterouse if my water cooling failed and I did not catch it in time. i.e. I leave the room to go out to the garage and come back in to see my system up in smoke.














:swearing: At least Cheech & Chong can get a laugh from that last comment.









N2G


No prob N2. In the precision tool you can actually set up a cooling profile. So @ 50*C the fans spin 30-35%, when it hits 60*C itll bump the fan speed to 50%, and at 70*C 75% fan speed, and at 75*C 100% (or however you wanna set it). You never really want your GPUs' hotter than 75*C, IIRC that's about the max allowable temp for any gpu. I can help you set it up if you'd like. Probably not till tomorrow though, taking my son to splash universe. We'll be there overnight.

As for fans being loud, the fan on my 4870 is by far the loudest fan in my case. Mind you I have 4 120mm fans running (Im planning on adding 3 more). I don't have a fan controller (yet), so they're running @ normal speed.
I was contemplating H2O cooling just for the sake of making it quieter. But I'm not sure if its worth it as a cooling setup for the cpu/gpu/nb would probably be pretty expensive, and that's hoping that the NB cooler would be small enough to fit under my video card(s).


----------



## Blitz6804

Except when my HD 4870x2's fan spins up, the loudest thing in my case is my Hitachi Deskstar. Yes, I have 3x120mm, 2x80mm, and 1x90mm, and the Deskstar is still louder than any/all of them. I have my HD 4870x2 on "Auto" fan speed. It will ramp up the fan during heavy 3D Gaming. Not all games prompt it. For example, CoD 4 generally does not need the fan. Crysis always needs it. When it ramps up (I still have not heard it running 100%) it easily overtakes my Deskstar for the sound annoyance winner.


----------



## Blitz6804

Hothbase: Subtracted 30 MHz from your off-site overclock, added 2 GB of RAM
Simfreak: Added 100 MHz to your x2 3800+ overclock on the DFI
Tator Tot: I think I said this before, but it bares repeating: you are now featured on the off-site roster


----------



## Tator Tot

Thanks Blitz.

I did find another ray of hope today.
Found an identical board to the one I had before. So I am going to look at picking it up for cheep if I can. (Currently at 10$ free shipping) (Jetway Nforce 4 board w/ SLi)


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
BlackOmega: It must be ran in 3D mode for maximum temperatures. I have found the highest temperatures result at your native resolution with 0xAA, or, at least a setting that pulls in excess of 50 FPS. When I pop on AA, my cards actually run cooler than with AA off. This is true of either HD 3850 (check For Sale section soon if anyone wants an upgrade from a Radeon X1000 series) or my HD 4870x2.

thlnk3r: This is why ATi put the change in the driver to automatically dial back the card. I should think a 100% fan speed should be sufficient to keep temperatures in check though. This was not, however, a problem with the HD 3850/70 (as you know) who, at full burn, only clock in at the low 70s.

Cool, just let me know when you are available and then I can learn something else that I did not already know. I'd prefer to use nvidia tools like the evga extras for nvidia for plain ormal use and easy set up/tweekablity etc.

Thank you,

N2G


----------



## nategr8ns

video overclocking is really easy (I only skimmed the last page of posts so forgive me if the topic changed) but since my 8800gt came overclocked I tend to leave it at those clocks. I found that I didn't get enough gain going to the max OC from the "superclock" overclock so I tend to leave it.
I'm curious to see advantages you guys get on other cards with 939 setups.


----------



## Blitz6804

My HD 3850 PCI-Es would not budge at all. Even one 1 MHz caused CoD4 to be unstable. I am starting to think that the factory overclock was actually too high, which is why they do not properly work in crossfire. I am too lazy to test that theory now.

My HD 3850 AGP would overclock, although, I only saw 1-2 FPS improvement between stock and overclocked, so it is hardly worth it.

My HD 4870x2 is staying happily stock due to my experiences with the HD 3850s. (All three of them.)


----------



## FatalityxZ

awesome thread
heres mine
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=523323


----------



## Blitz6804

Welcome aboard FatalityxZ. I will be adding you to the off-site roster momentarily while txtmstrjoe or thlnk3r will add you to the on-site sometime later.

For your computer, I would personally recommend replacing that 256 MB DIMM with a 512 MB DIMM so you can go dual channel (effectively doubling your memory bandwidth) or removing the 256 MB and the 512 MB to the same effect. But that is just me.

In any event, I am glad to see you rocking the 939 and welcome you aboard!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FatalityxZ* 
awesome thread
heres mine
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=523323

FatalityxZ good job.

Welcome to OCN the best place on earth.







Becarefull you can find your self getting addicted to this sight very easy and I'm glad to see another 939 user has found us her in this thread.

as blitz mentioned your 256mb stick of ram is also showing as PC2100 when the other 3 x 512Mb sticks are showing as PC3200. IDK but I would say that can possibly hinder your OC performance.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FatalityxZ* 
awesome thread
heres mine
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=523323

FatalityxZ, welcome to OCN









I have added you to the roster. Would you happen to know what stepping your 3700+ is? After you make the appropriate changes to your memory that Blitz and N2 suggested you could probably start raising the reference clock in small increments. You may want to also start dropping the HT speed by adjusting the multiplier. Anything above 1100Mhz may cause stability issues. I was able to go all the way up to 2.8Ghz on stock voltage.

Let us know if you need help

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

I just wanted to say







to every one and ask that you all ignore my grammer and spelling errors as I am plagued by a week edjucation at best. In any case I have a nack for learning stuff like pc's etc and am the kind of sould who can learn any thing so desired. I chose to F off in school when I should have been brushing up on my English skills but never the less I am here to stay.









So with that in mind I just wanted to give a really big thanks to all our club members who partake on a regular basis and one very special shout out to Hueristic for teaching me some invaluable skills. I was able to get rid of this darn'd old Google Earth Map thingie that would start every time I rebooted. Becuase of the new skills learned I was able to go into the Registery and remove files that was irritating me for over a year now.







Thnx Bro.

Update on my overclocking status. Well I got my nf4 sli dr board back up and running w/the 3500+ single core and the OCZ plats DDR400. It was no easy task. First off I almost forgot to switch the sli jumpers on the board before I powered it on for the first time after removing my XFX 8600GTS cards. I now am running My Leadtek px6600td 256Mb but the problems only began to start once I tried to power on for the first time.

For starters I left the side cover off so that I could watch all the fans power on for the first time after blowing them all off with compressed air. It's a good thing I did becuase my Chipset fan did not start to spin from the first power on. So I turned it off made sure the fan had no obstructions i.e. video card and then powered it back on. Presto it was working again.

Then since I did not remove the video drivers before I removed the 2 x 8800 GTS cards the screen defaulted to a resolution so big that I could not choose a different resolution because the ok button was way off the page and I could not select a different resolution. Arg.

All this while trying to play NFS/HS w/Hueristic.

Then my internet was not working to download the video drivers. Double Arg.

So I rebooted into F8 safe mode w/network support and chose to do a restore.

Woulden't you know it, there were no restore points to choose from. Errrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. I was really starting to get PO'd at this point. So I decided to race a little w/Hueristic. I got through two races when I was KO'd by the Bot & Hueristic racers. Followed by A stream error that caused the game to crash incidentally Hueristic's system locked up at the same time. LOL









Any way where was I. Oh yeah the DFI system. So I figured after all this issues I was having up to this point I would just try to get online in safe mode. Whoa It let me







Who Hoo.









So I loaded the video driver for the new video card and rebooted. Now the sytem was able to boot into windows w/a normal resolution and look decent again. At that point I decided to mount the fan controller and clean up the wiring and tie up all the loose ends that I have been putting off for a while now. I snapped off a few pick's and then went back into windows so that I could try to get rid of that damb Map Info startup file that claimed it could not find something it needed to work. Duh I removed it when I tried to uninstall Google earth you stupid PC.

To make a long strory shot, I am a happy camper right now.

Did I mention My GF came home in a $he T attitude like a bad storm rippin through the house. God forbid I let the cat out.









Any way If your still reading this then I'm glad you care enough to follow the life of N2G for the day of March 08, 2009.









I shall begin Overclocking my A8N32 now. I will choose a name for it soon, prolly something like "Ain't N 32bit" That's becuase I will be using my last copy of xp x64 with that mobo. It will be my 3rd and final system to use XP x64 bit. Man them silver bullets are feeling pretty good right now.









N2G

I forgot to mention I bent some of the pins while removing one of the Jumpers for the SLI pins










The system Use to look like this inside.


















Now It looks all clean and new looking again.



























































I swopped out an old off colored grey floppy disk drive seen in the picture below the picture just under this text. I replace it with this newer more Tan looking Floppy to match the chassis.


















Here is a pic of the old grey floppy drive and my infamouse laundry dryer sheets used as for filters.


----------



## thlnk3r

N2Gaming, wow what a day for you. Question about your XP 64-bit licensing...are you not able to call Microsoft to have the license reactivated if you were move over to a new board? Perhaps haven't been filled in on your situation.

Good luck bud


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, wow what a day for you. Question about your XP 64-bit licensing...are you not able to call Microsoft to have the license reactivated if you were move over to a new board? Perhaps haven't been filled in on your situation.

Good luck bud


Thanks for noticing.

Edit: I added pics to my other post seen here


----------



## nategr8ns

N2 it looks much better now


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thanks for noticing.

Edit: I added pics to my other post seen here


Now your PC can enjoy the nice fresh smell that you do when you put on clean clothes LOL







.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FatalityxZ* 
awesome thread
heres mine
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=523323

Welcome to the club








Just 1 thing, its better if I tell you than an admin and you get an infraction or something. Remove the word :turd: from your case description.








(This is a "family" oriented website so everything has to be somewhat censored.)

N2, look like you had quite the day. Your case looks MUCH better inside now







. To straighten your bent pins just use a mechanical pencil








Ill be on later today (after chem lab), and we'll work out the details of precision cooling profiles. Ill probably will have to fire up my Asus rig.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
video overclocking is really easy (I only skimmed the last page of posts so forgive me if the topic changed) but since my 8800gt came overclocked I tend to leave it at those clocks. I found that I didn't get enough gain going to the max OC from the "superclock" overclock so I tend to leave it.
I'm curious to see advantages you guys get on other cards with 939 setups.

Nate, with my 9600GSOs' I noticed a rather remarkable improvement with overclocking those. If you click the GPUZ link in my sig you can see what kind of overclock I was able to achieve in SLI. Mind you the cards went a bit higher individually.
As for performance increase, I was able to raise my FPS in Crysis by almost 10fps (1680x1050 high settings, 0xAA). It went from basically a non playable frame rate, 15fps, to a very playable 25.21fps. But the unfortunate thing is that even with my opty running @ 3003MHz it doesn't have enough power to scale those cards very well. There is a VERY minimal increase when SLIing them.
As for my 6800s', there is literally NO gain from overclocking them. Actually, my scores in several benchmarks went down (3dmark, CSS, Furmark,etc.).

So i think it more depends on the card than the rig its in.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 

N2, look like you had quite the day. Your case looks MUCH better inside now







. To straighten your bent pins just use a mechanical pencil








Ill be on later today (after chem lab), and we'll work out the details of precision cooling profiles. Ill probably will have to fire up my Asus rig.

















Thanks, I just used some needle nose pliers to steighten those bent pins. That number 0.5 mechanical pencil worked wonders on my Opty when I got it speaking of which. I just purchased another opty 180 and some more OCZ Plat's to go w/my other pair for a total ram amount of 4Gig OCZ Plat's. Yup she's breathing cleaner air these day's.

To Pez the dryer fab sheets are used so the clean smell is minimal to non existant. Besides I would be afaraid that the softener chemicals would radiate inside and onto my internals possibly causing issues. So the fab sheet will continue to be used before they are used.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thanks, I just used some needle nose pliers to steighten those bent pins. That number 0.5 mechanical pencil worked wonders on my Opty when I got it speaking of which. I just purchased another opty 180 and some more OCZ Plat's to go w/my other pair for a total ram amount of 4Gig OCZ Plat's. Yup she's breathing cleaner air these day's.

To Pez the dryer fab sheets are used so the clean smell is minimal to non existant. Besides I would be afaraid that the softener chemicals would radiate inside and onto my internals possibly causing issues. So the fab sheet will continue to be used before they are used.










Aw, you robbed them of their fab-potential lol. Time change screwed me up yesterday, and now it's basically like the middle of the day and all of a sudden it's 82 F outside....not pleasant with the sun in the middle of the sky....damnit..!!!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


To Pez the dryer fab sheets are used so the clean smell is minimal to non existant. Besides I would be afaraid that the softener chemicals would radiate inside and onto my internals possibly causing issues. So the fab sheet will continue to be used before they are used.










N2Gaming, were you the one that was running dryer sheets as filters? Funny you mentioned that because I was thinking about that last night before I fell asleep. Are you still getting decent results from that "modification"?

Good luck


----------



## FatalityxZ

oh yeah; i just salvaged the 256mb stick from my older computer... LOL
should i just take out the 256 or both the 256 and the 512?
Also i dont know what stepping is; could you explain








+ yes im already addicted lol
i should be getting a big typhoon sometime this week (H)


----------



## Blitz6804

You would want to remove the 256 and a 512 such that CPU-Z reads "Dual Channel" under the RAM tab. Replacing the 256 with a 512 (or the 512 with a 256, which is NOT recommended) will yield the same result. If you have the money for it, 2x1024 would be a nice upgrade as compared to 4x512.


----------



## pez

Yes, either have them all 512 sticks (2 sticks or 4 sticks) or all 256 sticks (2 sticks or 4 sticks). You would see a nice boost of speed if you were to get 2x1GB sticks.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FatalityxZ*


Also i dont know what stepping is; could you explain










FatalityxZ, the stepping is printed on the IHS (integrated heat spreader). The IHS is located on top of the processor...it covers the die. See attached image for an example. The part that begins with a CCBVF is part of the stepping.

Good luck


----------



## FatalityxZ

oh...
do i need to take off my heatsink?
and also
would it be benificial to just take the 256 off?
would that be better?


----------



## Blitz6804

If you just remove the 256 MB DIMM, you would still be in single-channel. If you do not have instability with 3x512+1x256, you are fine. It just will be slower than if you had 2x512+2x256, 4x512, or 2x1024.


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## FatalityxZ

oh
that sucks








agh i feel like such an idiot for buying single channel last year


----------



## Blitz6804

Do not feel like an idiot. Sometimes we only have certain economic standing and can only do so much. Other times we lack the education or foresight to see an upgrade down the road. (I have fallen victim to this many times.) But whatever the case, you will always be learning. A day without learning is a day wasted as Joe might say.


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## FatalityxZ

lol yeah
2 back i bought a radeon 7000 and thought 64mb of memory was awesome








haha, im wondering tho why does DDR cost more than DDR2?


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## Blitz6804

Supply and demand. DDR memory chips are no longer being made. DDR2 chips are being made in large supply. As far as I know, they are also cheaper to produce.


----------



## FatalityxZ

oh ic
any reasons why burnout paradise takes 5 minutes to load and lags during races for me?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FatalityxZ* 
do i need to take off my heatsink?

FatalityxZ, that is correct. You'll have to remove the heatsink in order to read the stepping. It's not required at this time...I was just curious









If you plan on applying new thermal compound in the future then you could probably just write it down then.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FatalityxZ* 
any reasons why burnout paradise takes 5 minutes to load and lags during races for me?

That could be caused by numerous things. Are you in the process of removing memory (tweaking related) as suggested by Blitz? If that is the case then perhaps your system is having troubles utilizing additional memory for the game. Some of the lag issues could be video card related or even internet related (latency). A virus scan in the background could also cause this.

Have you tried testing with any other games to see if this issue reproduces itself?

Let us know

Good luck


----------



## FatalityxZ

No i havent touched my memory in like 6 months... nothing running in the background, just MSN, and i havent been playing online







.
I doubt its my 8800GT however.


----------



## Blitz6804

Has Burnout Paradise always done this? I have the console version (PS3) and I know that loadtimes can be a bear. With the PS3, you have to wait 5-10 minutes before you can even play the game. Once booted though, it is generally like butter unless you are online.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
With the PS3, you have to wait 5-10 minutes before you can even play the game.

Blitz, holy moly are you serious? During those load times I could start dinner or take a shower


----------



## Blitz6804

No joke. From the time the load screen shows up until the time you arrive at the junkyard takes 5-10 minutes on the PS3 depending if you have gotten an update recently. The first time after an update it takes longer.

The initial install of the game was about 15 minutes. GTA4 wins the slowest darn game ever with a 25 minute install and a 15 minute patch. Yes, it took me 40 minutes from the time I put the disk in the drive until I could play the game for the first time.


----------



## FatalityxZ

Wow. That must suck for you. Anyways, Paradise is running ok now, I think it was the 256mb stick of memory (took it out).


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, I just noticed now: The 256 MB DIMM was PC-2100. The 512 MB DIMMs are PC-3200. You are running PC-2382. It is possible the 31 MHz overclock on the 256 MB DIMM made it unstable. If you want, you can likely increase your RAM divider to 333 MHz from its present 266 MHz for a nice speed boost. (Provided that the DDR 400 / PC-3200 DIMMs are capable of running 2.5-3-3-7 at DDR 361. CPU-Z's "SPD" tab will let us know for sure.)


----------



## FatalityxZ

It's pretty much the same for all the sticks of RAM.


----------



## Blitz6804

Loosen the RAM timings to 2.5-3-3-8 from their present 2.5-3-3-7, and then set your memory divider to DDR 333 (200:166) in your BIOS. You should see an improvement from where you stand now.


----------



## FatalityxZ

I took my 256 off.
Do i still do what you specified?


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## Blitz6804

Yes. You do what I suggested solely because you took the 256 out. If you wanted to leave the 256 in (a bad idea) I would have a different suggestion.


----------



## FatalityxZ

Oh alright.
I'll be on it now.
Thanks









EDIT: I couldn't find the settings in BIOS, maybe this is why :


----------



## Blitz6804

Ah, I see... you have the BIOS running the memory as "auto"?

If so, you are looking to set:

Column Address Strobe (tCL) to 3.0
RAS to CAS Delay (tRCD) to 3
Row Precharge Time (tRP) to 3
Min RAS Active Time (tRAS) to 8

If it is stable, you can use tCL as 2.5 instead, but seeing as how your Crucial RAM likes 3.0 at DDR 400 (whereas the noname likes 2.5) it may or may not be stable at DDR 366 where you would be if you increased your memory divider.


----------



## FatalityxZ

Oh thanks so much







.
I'll be on it right now.

EDIT: Hmm, the memory check in BIOS shows the memory as DDR 400MHz, but in CPU-Z, they show up exactly the same as before.


----------



## Blitz6804

To see the speed of your RAM in CPU-Z, you must look at the "Memory" tab. The "SPD" tab tells you what the RAM is programed to do if set to "Auto."

As for dual channel, the cheapest way to get it is to spend $18 to get one 512 MB PC-3200 DIMM. The far better way though is to buy a 2x 1024 MB PC-3200 DIMM kit. You can likely also find a great steal in the For Sale section of OCN. I know for a fact there are people who are about to be selling DDR-500 (PC-4000) which will be a nice boost.


----------



## FatalityxZ

Oh I see.
Thanks for the links, I'll look into it







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


To see the speed of your RAM in CPU-Z, you must look at the "Memory" tab. The "SPD" tab tells you what the RAM is programed to do if set to "Auto."

As for dual channel, the cheapest way to get it is to spend $18 to get one 512 MB PC-3200 DIMM. The far better way though is to buy a 2x 1024 MB PC-3200 DIMM kit. You can likely also find a great steal in the For Sale section of OCN. I know for a fact there are people who are about to be selling DDR-500 (PC-4000) which will be a nice boost.


Hey blitz for the price of the 2 gig kit would he not be better of buying 2x1gig kit of DDR500 or PC4000???


----------



## Blitz6804

DDR 500 / PC-4000 is almost only available used now. Depending on your needs, it may or may not be appropriate.


----------



## N2Gaming

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820146023


----------



## pez

Or $55 shipped for a pair of my DDR500 Redlines







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Have you guys taken the time to check out my Post for your favorite You Tube video's listed in my sig. If not here is the link. enjoy. Don't be shy post your favorite You Tube Video.

http://www.overclock.net/off-topic/444255-do-you-have-favorite-youtube-video.html

Thank you,

N2G

I will hopefully soon be a proud owner of another Opty 180 and another pair of OCZ Plats 1x2Gig. Just made the purchase today, I can't wait to tweek them like neve before. I will use DDR500 timmings and use 2.9 or ever 3.0v to the ram just to see how far I can push them. After all what good is it to have a back up pair of ram if your not gonna use them for serious overclocking.









I'll Keep you all posted.









N2G


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I will am gonna soon hopefully be a proud owner of another Opty 180 and another pair of OCZ Plats 1x2Gig. I can't wait to tweek them like neve before. I will use DDR500 timmings and use 2.9 or ever 3.0v to the ram just to see how far I can push them. After all what good is it to have a back up pair of ram if your not gonna use them for serious overclocking.









I'll Keep you all posted.









N2G
























My brand new opty 185 just arrived at the post office














Gonna finish my coffee and grab him


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*























My brand new opty 185 just arrived at the post office














Gonna finish my coffee and grab him


have fun w/it.







I only wish I was getting a 185


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*























My brand new opty 185 just arrived at the post office














Gonna finish my coffee and grab him


I would have dumped the coffee and rushed to the post office ASAP!


----------



## Blitz6804

N2Gaming: The Opteron 185 has a 13x multiplier whereas the Opteron 180 has a 12x multiplier. To get 3.0 GHz with the Opteron 180, you would need the very-attainable 250 MHz HTT, which if you are running 1:1, gives you a perfect DDR-500. The Opteron 185 on the other hand would need a 231 HTT and would only give DDR-462 at its native 13x. Personally, I would use 12x on either (assuming it can get the 3.0 GHz mark) but that is just me.

Congrats on both your purchases; have fun with them!


----------



## MikeV_E36

Thank you














Too bad I've returned my case fans cause they were defective and I have no cooling at this time so I can't try ocing


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## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
N2Gaming: The Opteron 185 has a 13x multiplier whereas the Opteron 180 has a 12x multiplier. To get 3.0 GHz with the Opteron 180, you would need the very-attainable 250 MHz HTT, which if you are running 1:1, gives you a perfect DDR-500. The Opteron 185 on the other hand would need a 231 HTT and would only give DDR-462 at its native 13x. Personally, I would use 12x on either (assuming it can get the 3.0 GHz mark) but that is just me.

Blitz, that is a good point. That's of course assuming the memory is capable of running at those speeds without a hitch. If N2 is running DDR500 then it should be a cake walk.

Hothbase, I noticed you changed your avatar.

_"The shield will be down in moments, you may start your landing"_ Gen. Veers









Good luck


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
_"The shield will be down in moments, you may start your landing"_ Gen. Veers









Ep V has always been my favorite


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*























My brand new opty 185 just arrived at the post office














Gonna finish my coffee and grab him


 nice! Dare I ask what you paid for it?


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


nice! Dare I ask what you paid for it?


it's 207euros, brand new, though I haven't acquired it yet cause there is a little problem.

I have a question for you guys. Were ever the 939 opterons sold in Tray versions than PIB?? I was expecting to see a box today when I arrived at the post office but instead they showed me a medium envelope. I got the opty from a bidding site of my country and the seller claims that the cpu is sealed. Could this be possible?? I won't receive before I'm 100000% sure, I'm afraid of a fraud happenning here


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


I have a question for you guys. Were ever the 939 opterons sold in Tray versions than PIB??


MikeV_E36, tray version? This is the first time I've heard of this. All the processors that I have purchased in the past came in a box. I look forward to other individuals suggestions/opinions about this.

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


it's 207euros, brand new, though I haven't acquired it yet cause there is a little problem.

I have a question for you guys. *Were ever the 939 opterons sold in Tray versions than PIB??* I was expecting to see a box today when I arrived at the post office but instead they showed me a medium envelope. I got the opty from a bidding site of my country and the seller claims that the cpu is sealed. Could this be possible?? I won't receive before I'm 100000% sure, I'm afraid of a fraud happenning here

















It certainly is possible. I've bought a few Opterons on a tray before. There's a top part and a bottom part, and the CPUs sit in between these parts with the pins shielded from damage by a thin foam pad (the same as what comes with a PIB CPU).


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
It certainly is possible. I've bought a few Opterons on a tray before. There's a top part and a bottom part, and the CPUs sit in between these parts with the pins shielded from damage by a thin foam pad (the same as what comes with a PIB CPU).

Joe, do you have a image of this or something I can search for on google? I couldn't find anything related to this topic. I'm very curious.

Thanks


----------



## HothBase

Yes, there are both Tray and PiB versions








OSA185DAA6CD is an OEM/tray processor
OSA185CDBOX is a boxed processor


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, do you have a image of this or something I can search for on google? I couldn't find anything related to this topic. I'm very curious.

Thanks

If I'm not mistaken I saved the tray (the bottom and upper parts of it). I'll have to look through my stash at home and snap a couple of shots for you.

This I know: To my best recollection, the tray I have has room for maybe ten or twelve CPUs (five or six pairs of chips, arrayed in two columns), so the tray is probably meant for a bulk shipment of OEM chips (i.e., non-retail PIBs). The CPUs that were delivered to me in this fashion didn't have any documentation, but in case someone asks about how AMD could honor their warranty obligations with these chips, AMD could always ask you for the serial number, which is printed on the IHS of every chip. (AMD will also know whether or not the chip is an OEM or a retail product -- this is important, as I believe the retail chips have a longer warranty period.)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
Yes, there are both Tray and PiB versions








OSA185DAA6CD is an OEM/tray processor
OSA185CDBOX is a boxed processor

Hoth, thanks! I saw that in cpu-world.com and was wondering if it was the same thing.

Joe, thanks for the reply as well. I know what you're talking about now


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
Yes, there are both Tray and PiB versions








OSA185DAA6CD is an OEM/tray processor
OSA185CDBOX is a boxed processor

I think that the first serial number is written on the cpu and the second the on box. So all optys are OSA185DAA6CD. Or am I wrong??

Fortunatelly it is a payment on receive package so I didn't give any money yet. I just want to be sure there really was a genuine amd bulk edition out there. I google but get nothing







The seller has his phone switched off ahhh























Joe were your tray optys sealed?


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Hoth, thanks! I saw that in cpu-world.com and was wondering if it was the same thing.

Yup








http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/K8/AMD...185CDBOX).html

They even have a picture of the tray version


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
I think that the first serial number is written on the cpu and the second the on box. So all optys are OSA185DAA6CD. Or am I wrong??

Fortunatelly it is a payment on receive package so I didn't give any money yet. I just want to be sure there really was a genuine amd bulk edition out there. I google but get nothing







The seller has his phone switched off ahhh























*Joe were your tray optys sealed?*

"Sealed"? Well, the tray halves were taped together (to prevent the chips from spilling out and possibly getting damaged). I don't know if this meets your definition of "sealed."

I got that small batch (three CPUs) for cheap, so I'm wagering that those were not mint/unused. On the other hand, there's no way to tell, as far as I know. I test all my chips, though, and there were no problems whatsoever with that batch that came in that tray.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
The CPUs that were delivered to me in this fashion *didn't have any documentation*, but in case someone asks about how AMD could honor their warranty obligations with these chips, AMD could always ask you for the serial number, which is printed on the IHS of every chip.









The seller claims that it is an unused brand new, factory sealed, opty 185 in the genuine OEM bulk amd package with all of its documents and its sticker














Man things get serious now.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
Yup








http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/K8/AMD...185CDBOX).html

They even have a picture of the tray version

OMG!! That's say same picture the seller used on his auction. Meaning what he finally sent may not be an LCBBE 0628BPMW. Ahh I'm going really angry now, he'd better answer to my calls soon.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
So all optys are OSA185DAA6CD.

Hmm, yes I suppose that's true. But tray versions _do_ exist!
http://www.newegg.com/product/produc...AFC-C8Junction

*Edit:* I think you are doing the right thing in trying to contact the seller about the stepping. Good luck with that, let's all hope it all ends up all right.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 







The seller claims that it is an unused brand new, factory sealed, opty 185 in the genuine OEM bulk amd package with all of its documents and its sticker














Man things get serious now.

OMG!! That's say same picture the seller used on his auction. Meaning what he finally sent may not be an LCBBE 0628BPMW. Ahh I'm going really angry now, he'd better answer to my calls soon.

MikeV, I've bought quite a lot of CPUs (probably approaching twenty, many of which have found homes in clients' machines), and most of them were OEM chips. I have never bought an OEM chip with any documentation or the sticker with it. If I'm not mistaken, AMD doesn't ship OEM chips with the sticker for sure, nor any of the CoA or other documentation. (At least this has been my experience.)

Good luck.


----------



## Hueristic

To my knowledge ALL cpu's are sold retail and oem.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
Hmm, yes I suppose that's true. But tray versions _do_ exist!
http://www.newegg.com/product/produc...AFC-C8Junction

Great find mate! Thanks! So mystery about tray version sold... But in tray version no documents should be included, right?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
Great find mate! Thanks! So mystery about tray version sold... But in tray version no documents should be included, right?

For all OEM chips, no documentation is included, as far as I know.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
For all OEM chips, no documentation is included, as far as I know.

Great thanks everyone guys. He's gonna contact me soon. I'll keep you posted.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
Great thanks everyone guys. He's gonna contact me soon. I'll keep you posted.









Good luck!


----------



## MikeV_E36

Finally phoned me. He claims that this cpu was an OEM which arrived at Germany and was packaged in Germany in a retail tray package including the documents he referred. About the stepping he's not pretty sure. Man that guy is so lame I was trying about 5 minutes to explain him that there's not only one stepping code but many others for this CPU. He was convinced there was only one cause there is only the CCBBE on cpuworld loool. Anyway I already have also contacted my lawyer, I'll receive the package tomorrow and if anything goes wrong he's gonna feel really sorry...


----------



## thlnk3r

Sorry guys. Edited some posts so we could stay on topic.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*









The seller claims that it is an unused brand new, factory sealed, opty 185 in the genuine OEM bulk amd package with all of its documents and its sticker














Man things get serious now.

OMG!! That's say same picture the seller used on his auction. Meaning what he finally sent may not be an LCBBE 0628BPMW. Ahh I'm going really angry now, he'd better answer to my calls soon.


MikeV_E36, I personally bought my first Opty 180 from Tiger direct and it was a OEM chip. It came in the typical little clear plastic case w/the black antistatic foam that is there to help cushion the pins from any damage. I hope this helps.


























Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


N2Gaming: The Opteron 185 has a 13x multiplier whereas the Opteron 180 has a 12x multiplier. To get 3.0 GHz with the Opteron 180, you would need the very-attainable 250 MHz HTT, which if you are running 1:1, gives you a perfect DDR-500. The Opteron 185 on the other hand would need a 231 HTT and would only give DDR-462 at its native 13x. Personally, I would use 12x on either (assuming it can get the 3.0 GHz mark) but that is just me.

Congrats on both your purchases; have fun with them!


Thanks blitz & think3r, I'm gonna try to run 4x1Gig of the OCZ Plats DDR400 ram at DDR500 spd's

My DFI system keeps BSOD'n on me. I don't know what it can be but I will take a look into it. My guess is the os is scrubbed from to many hardware swop's. I'll look at all the hardware again and make sure it's all in place securely. I'll run a memtest while I'm at it.

N2G


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


MikeV_E36, I personally bought my first Opty 180 from Tiger direct and it was a OEM chip. It came in the typical little clear plastic case w/the black antistatic foam that is there to help cushion the pins from any damage. I hope this helps.

My DFI system keeps BSOD'n on me. I don't know what it can be but I will take a look into it. My guess is the os is scrubbed from to many hardware swop's. I'll look at all the hardware again and make sure it's all in place securely. I'll run a memtest while I'm at it.

N2G


Thanks for the screens. Finally I figured out what's happening, tomorrow I'll receive the opty. About BSODs it could be the os scrubbed from too many hardware swaps but if it continues after a fresh copy be sure to run a memtest at stock speeds. Bad memories cause BSODs, usually "IRQ less or not equal" ones.. Good luck!


----------



## BlackOmega

My opty 180 that I bought from tigerdirect came in a rather large plastic. Looks like it should've been hanging up somewhere. It wasn't in the typical AMD plastic that my retail chips came in.

N2, as for your DFI rig, what is your mem set to and @ what timings? Have you run S&M, including the mem test? If you haven't Run S&M @ 100% load short duration, the ones that you mainly need to know about are the L1,L2 caches, FPU and memory test.
You can uncheck all the rest of the options. As I have yet to see one of my CPUs' fail the SSE, MMX or the PSU test. 
Which code is it throwing when it BSODs? As for lots of hardware swaps, conflicting driver issues can cause this. When I get a rig to exactly how I want it, I usually do a completely new install. That way Im positive that there's no residual driver bits left over that might cause errors/crashes/BSODs'.

Try running S&M, I've found orthos,OCCT,prime to be not very reliable tests. S&M is the only that I care about now. I know if its S&M stable then its a good overclock regardless what Orthos,OCCT or prime says. And I have had SEVERAL overclocks that fail Orthos yet pass S&M and be 100% stable. Not only that but if it fails S&M, itll tell you exactly _where_ it failed and that way you have a base of how to resolve any failures.

Good luck buddy


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


My opty 180 that I bought from tigerdirect came in a rather large plastic. Looks like it should've been hanging up somewhere. It wasn't in the typical AMD plastic that my retail chips came in.

N2, as for your DFI rig, what is your mem set to and @ what timings? Have you run S&M, including the mem test? If you haven't Run S&M @ 100% load short duration, the ones that you mainly need to know about are the L1,L2 caches, FPU and memory test.
You can uncheck all the rest of the options. As I have yet to see one of my CPUs' fail the SSE, MMX or the PSU test. 
Which code is it throwing when it BSODs? As for lots of hardware swaps, conflicting driver issues can cause this. When I get a rig to exactly how I want it, I usually do a completely new install. That way Im positive that there's no residual driver bits left over that might cause errors/crashes/BSODs'.

Try running S&M, I've found orthos,OCCT,prime to be not very reliable tests. S&M is the only that I care about now. I know if its S&M stable then its a good overclock regardless what Orthos,OCCT or prime says. And I have had SEVERAL overclocks that fail Orthos yet pass S&M and be 100% stable. Not only that but if it fails S&M, itll tell you exactly _where_ it failed and that way you have a base of how to resolve any failures.

Good luck buddy










Oh for now the system is just set up at stock spds/timings volts etc. That is why I think I scrubbed the OS. I will open the case and give it one last lookie lue just to make sure that I do not have any loose ends that I forgot or any loose ram etc. the last bsod had a error code w. E_256 in the text. I'm thinking it has to do with my 256Mb video card and prolly the drivers. I was having problems with the display when I rebooted it for the first time. In any case I will post my finings


----------



## HothBase

Is an LCB9E Toledo(Athlon X2) the same thing as an LCB9E Denmark(DC Opteron)?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


Is an LCB9E Toledo(Athlon X2) the same thing as an LCB9E Denmark(DC Opteron)?


If the Toledo has all of its L2 cache available, then yes.

(There are Toledos with half of its L2 cache disabled.)


----------



## Hueristic

Hi guys seems like my fileserver is offline, just uploaded some files to share and they're not there:mad

Ummm back on topic. My Opty is running gr8 (Tony the tiger vioce)! wish my bios went over 250! haveing to change it to 280 through software bites!


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


If the Toledo has all of its L2 cache available, then yes.

(There are Toledos with half of its L2 cache disabled.)


Cool, thanks!








I'm really happy with this CPU, even though it wont go past [email protected] (2.8GHz needs 1.5V) I feel lucky since I really didn't know anything about this stuff when I bought it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Ummm back on topic. My Opty is running gr8 (Tony the tiger vioce)!


----------



## N2Gaming

I just got off the phone w/microsoft TechSupport. Get this, I was able to obtain free Tech Support due to my copy of windows not able to run updates. It only took up about 2-3 hours to resolve the issue. Man I sure would not want to pay for a MS Tech Supt bill like that. Any way incase you all were not aware. Microsoft offers Free Tech Support for any OS if you are having any update issues that includes OEM.

Right when I called the Tech Dept the person gave me a list of 3 options to choose from and I stopped them at option #2 when they said that I could pay for phone support.







What no way man "i told him" your web sight claims to give free tech support for any update issues. he went away for a minute and came back and said ok sir I will connect you with the tech Dept. Any way to make a long story short I think I was hacked and my Auto updates were shut off to prevent me from downloading the maliscious remover update. Ha take that you hackers.









So hopefully that was my BSOD issue.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I just got off the phone w/microsoft TechSupport. Get this, I was able to obtain free Tech Support due to my copy of windows not able to run updates. It only took up about 2-3 hours to resolve the issue. Man I sure would not want to pay for a MS Tech Supt bill like that. Any way incase you all were not aware. Microsoft offers Free Tech Support for any OS if you are having any update issues that includes OEM.

Right when I called the Tech Dept the person gave me a list of 3 options to choose from and I stopped them at option #2 when they said that I could pay for phone support.







What no way man "i told him" your web sight claims to give free tech support for any update issues. he went away for a minute and came back and said ok sir I will connect you with the tech Dept. Any way to make a long story short I think I was hacked and my Auto updates were shut off to prevent me from downloading the maliscious remover update. Ha take that you hackers.









So hopefully that was my BSOD issue.

Not for nuthin N2 but you wasted 2-3 hours, So how did you beat the hackers?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Not for nuthin N2 but you wasted 2-3 hours, So how did you beat the hackers?









I never said I beat the hacker, I just was venting because before I called Microsoft I could not run MS updates and my pc was BSOD'n. After the MS Tech Supt I was able to update and install the maliscious software remover update. I am guessing that I was hacked by my wireless and I saw a network connection in my network connetions that was not on my MSHOME network. So I think I was hacked and tinkered w/a bit. In any case I got my updates working again and that is all that mattered to me. I did not want to have to do another install.









Oh yeah before any one suggests dissablling my router. it is no longer in the equation. I am running pc to pc right now sharing the modem from one pc to the other. I guess I could daisy chain all my pc's that way w/hub but Meah. I got the router for ps3 and my garage pc. Oh well I will have to do further security research before continuing to use the wireless features of the router.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I never said I beat the hacker, I just was venting because before I called Microsoft I could not run MS updates and my pc was BSOD'n. After the MS Tech Supt I was able to update and install the maliscious software remover update. I am guessing that I was hacked by my wireless and I saw a network connection in my network connetions that was not on my MSHOME network. So I think I was hacked and tinkered w/a bit. In any case I got my updates working again and that is all that mattered to me. I did not want to have to do another install.



















So did the removal tool find any rootkits?

Just bustin on ya buddy! Member what I said in the PM when u said u were on the phone wit Micro$haft!









BTW almost got those links for you.

AND I finally finished my NFSHS install exe that adds all patches/cars/tracks/mixer and lounge.

And while u were on phone with micro I got my furnace working AGAIN!!!!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 









So did the removal tool find any rootkits?

Just bustin on ya buddy! Member what I said in the PM when u said u were on the phone wit Micro$haft!










I don't know how to check that. would the update tell me it did or do I have to look it up some where that I don't know about?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I don't know how to check that. would the update tell me it did or do I have to look it up some where that I don't know about?


Malicious software removal tools are just virus scanners that remove one virus, so you just run them as an executionable.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Malicious software removal tools are just virus scanners that remove one virus, so you just run them as an executionable.


So does that mean that it only runs one time and if it does not find any thing important it does nothing. The Tech Supt guy said when I aked him if it ran in the background. He told me that it does and if it finds any thing it automatically removes it and I would never even know about it. Is this wrong?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


So does that mean that it only runs one time and if it does not find any thing important it does nothing. The Tech Supt guy said when I aked him if it ran in the background. He told me that it does and if it finds any thing it automatically removes it and I would never even know about it. Is this wrong?


That sounds correct, Most programs can run silently.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


My opty 180 that I bought from tigerdirect came in a rather large plastic. Looks like it should've been hanging up somewhere. It wasn't in the typical AMD plastic that my retail chips came in.

N2, as for your DFI rig, what is your mem set to and @ what timings? Have you run S&M, including the mem test? If you haven't Run S&M @ 100% load short duration, the ones that you mainly need to know about are the L1,L2 caches, FPU and memory test.
You can uncheck all the rest of the options. As I have yet to see one of my CPUs' fail the SSE, MMX or the PSU test. 
Which code is it throwing when it BSODs? As for lots of hardware swaps, conflicting driver issues can cause this. When I get a rig to exactly how I want it, I usually do a completely new install. That way Im positive that there's no residual driver bits left over that might cause errors/crashes/BSODs'.

Try running S&M, I've found orthos,OCCT,prime to be not very reliable tests. S&M is the only that I care about now. I know if its S&M stable then its a good overclock regardless what Orthos,OCCT or prime says. And I have had SEVERAL overclocks that fail Orthos yet pass S&M and be 100% stable. Not only that but if it fails S&M, itll tell you exactly _where_ it failed and that way you have a base of how to resolve any failures.

Good luck buddy










Sorry MikeV I miss informed you. I just remembered after BlackOmega mentioned it that the OEM opty did come in a different package. Here is the pictures I should have referenced.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I am guessing that I was hacked by my wireless and I saw a network connection in my network connetions that was not on my MSHOME network. So I think I was hacked and tinkered w/a bit.


N2Gaming, are you sure someone "hacked" into your router to cause damage to your OS? The above statement much sounds like a virus/trojan/rootkit ect ect. These usually get on a machine from either two things, downloading "stuff" or viewing websites that contain malicious code.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, are you sure someone "hacked" into your router to cause damage to your OS? The above statement much sounds like a virus/trojan/rootkit ect ect. These usually get on a machine from either two things, downloading "stuff" or viewing websites that contain malicious code.

Good luck


NO I'm not sure of any thing these days







but I'm sure I saw another computer listed in my MSHOME network that was not mine. So I Turned off DMZ and completely removed the router to eliminate it as a possible hacking door way and after i did all the forementioned things the other PC named Js1 dissapeared. So IDK what it was but I do know that my system has been orthose stable for 40 min and running w/o any BSOD's









Edit: The last thing I downloaded was CCleaner for removing startup and system files that I could not remove from the add remove programs window in the controll pannel.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


NO I'm not sure of any thing these days







but I'm sure I saw another computer listed in my MSHOME network that was not mine. So I Turned off DMZ and completely removed the router to eliminate it as a possible hacking door way and after i did all the forementioned things the other PC named Js1 dissapeared. So IDK what it was but I do know that my system has been orthose stable for 40 min and running w/o any BSOD's









Edit: The last thing I downloaded was CCleaner for removing startup and system files that I could not remove from the add remove programs window in the controll pannel.


You shouldn't leave your system in the dmz for prolonged periods of time.


----------



## nategr8ns

You should restrict MAC addresses on your router. It only accepts connections from specified MAC addresses. With my Netgear and my old Linksys, it will show attached devices and it lists IP and MAC. Connect your computers and use the MAC addresses listed.


----------



## BlackOmega

What does DMZ stand for? Demilitarized zone? Only thing I can think of.

N2, thats the exact same packaging my opty came in. Have you run memtest to see if any of your ram is bad? I started getting BSODs' when one of my Corsair sticks went bad. Eventually it wouldnt even POST. RMA'd it and it works fine now. Only took 4 weeks to get the replacement.









Kind of an update on my disconnection issues. So yesterday I lost connection. I look at my icon and only 1 monitor has the blue screen. I check connection status and its connected and running @ 100Mbps. But yet I cant connect to the net. So instead of restarting, I went in to the network connections screen, disabled the connection and then enabled it. Lo and behold it works. Haven't gotten disconnected since but I wonder if this is only temporary. Any ideas?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
What does DMZ stand for? Demilitarized zone? Only thing I can think of.

N2, thats the exact same packaging my opty came in. Have you run memtest to see if any of your ram is bad? I started getting BSODs' when one of my Corsair sticks went bad. Eventually it wouldnt even POST. RMA'd it and it works fine now. Only took 4 weeks to get the replacement.









Kind of an update on my disconnection issues. So yesterday I lost connection. I look at my icon and only 1 monitor has the blue screen. I check connection status and its connected and running @ 100Mbps. But yet I cant connect to the net. So instead of restarting, I went in to the network connections screen, disabled the connection and then enabled it. Lo and behold it works. Haven't gotten disconnected since but I wonder if this is only temporary. Any ideas?

I just ran a pass of memtest86+ while I took a shower and it made a complete pass w/o any errors so I upped the cpu Core v to 1.4 and I am now at a 1:15 hr long stable orthose @2400Mhz and DDR400 2.3.2.2. 7 1T









I have been doing the same w/my network connections alot lately for diff reasons









EDIT: 2 hr Orthos Stable.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


What does DMZ stand for? Demilitarized zone? Only thing I can think of.


BlackOmega, thats correct. Basically it exposes every port on the router. It's like leaving your garage door open at night. Someone is going to eventually jack something. This should be a good lesson to N2 not to leave that enabled









Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Kind of an update on my disconnection issues. So yesterday I lost connection. I look at my icon and only 1 monitor has the blue screen. I check connection status and its connected and running @ 100Mbps. But yet I cant connect to the net. So instead of restarting, I went in to the network connections screen, disabled the connection and then enabled it. Lo and behold it works. Haven't gotten disconnected since but I wonder if this is only temporary. Any ideas?


Sounds like your issue is on a hardware level. It could physically be your integrated ethernet controller that is dropping you. Do you have a PCI 10/100 network card that you could test with temporarily?

N2Gaming, looking good dude









Keep pushing that puppy. Those timings are looking pretty tight!

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, thats correct. Basically it exposes every port on the router. It's like leaving your garage door open at night. Someone is going to eventually jack something. This should be a good lesson to N2 not to leave that enabled









Sounds like your issue is on a hardware level. It could physically be your integrated ethernet controller that is dropping you. Do you have a PCI 10/100 network card that you could test with temporarily?

N2Gaming, looking good dude









Keep pushing that puppy. Those timings are looking pretty tight!

Good luck

Thanks man, I'm trying to run the default DDR400 or as close to it as possible w/CPU OC so that the system will be








fast. Me and my computer have been














for the last hour trying to get a stable oc past 2400Mhz I'm doing pretty good at 2450 ATM same ram timmings







my computer thinks I'm







and it makes me feel like







and it keeps







every time a make a bad bios setting









Still no time to work on A8N32 system. This OC is hard enough for the moment and I only have two monitors in this room so one for email music etc and the other for overclocking/Gaming on the other systems

N2G


----------



## MikeV_E36

Man you really shouldn't have DMZ enabled














You have a linksys router don't you?? Have you flashed it with the DD-WRT? If not, this firmware rocks you should give it a try!
Good job with the overclock!! Keep on pushin









@BlackOmega

Sounds like your ethernet interface was only able to transmit packets but didn't get any replies. Maybe your IP had expired and a new lease didn't happen. Your disabling-enabling the interface forced a new IP lease and granted connection to the net.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Sorry for the double post.. I didn't know how to embed this on to the previous









So I got the opty







The package is indeed sealed and contaning documents. The processor is also in a plastic bag which is also sealed and sitting in a tray with foam at the bottom. So it's definitely brand new. Still has Warranty till 11/2010. The bad news is that it's a LCB9E 0734 and I can't find any o/c info on this stepping. Attaching a foto of the package for you to see.


----------



## pez

WooWoo, my package is in SC and has left..but with my luck, I still won't get it til tommorow. Here's to hoping I don't have to life with a s**ty minimum fps much longer -_-.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 

So I got the opty







The package is indeed sealed and contaning documents. The processor is also in a plastic bag which is also sealed and sitting in a tray with foam at the bottom. So it's definitely brand new. Still has Warranty till 11/2010. The bad news is that it's a LCB9E 0734 and I can't find any o/c info on this stepping. Attaching a foto of the package for you to see.














































Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
WooWoo, my package is in SC and has left..but with my luck, I still won't get it til tommorow. Here's to hoping I don't have to life with a s**ty minimum fps much longer -_-.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


The bad news is that it's a LCB9E 0734 and I can't find any o/c info on this stepping.


LCB9Es are generally considered good overclockers AFAIK.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
LCB9Es are generally considered good overclockers AFAIK.

Indeed.









(I'm running one at 2.9GHz, at 1.38V VCore, S&M-stable.


----------



## N2Gaming

Same here. I'm run an Opty 180 same stepping.


















EDIT: I got my 3500+ @ 2500Mhz 8.5 Hr's Orthos Stable. See I think I'm done with that one. That is as much as I want to tinker w/it for now.


----------



## HothBase

posting pictures, are we?


----------



## MikeV_E36

Ahh great great news







I'll wait for the fans to arrive and then build the system and see how my opty clocks!


----------



## HothBase

I just noticed something, most CPUs I see have the text in black whereas a few like my 3000+ and 3800+ X2 have shiny text. Any specific reason behind that?

And another question, 32-bit apps are limited to a maximum of 2GB RAM right? Does this include Video RAM?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
I just noticed something, most CPUs I see have the text in black whereas a few like my 3000+ and 3800+ X2 have shiny text. Any specific reason behind that?

And another question, 32-bit apps are limited to a maximum of 2GB RAM right? Does this include Video RAM?

I don't know but My guess would be that the black characters are printed w/inc and the silver characters are lazer or etched onto the surface somehow.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Sounds like your issue is on a hardware level. It could physically be your integrated ethernet controller that is dropping you. Do you have a PCI 10/100 network card that you could test with temporarily?

Good luck

No pci network card, Ive always used the onboard ethernet controllers. It could be in part to me switching boards and some of the Asus drivers still being on this HDD.
I'm planning on running a RAID 0 array when I get my AM3 rig, which I'm hoping is next week. So I don't want to reformat yet.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 

Sounds like your ethernet interface was only able to transmit packets but didn't get any replies. Maybe your IP had expired and a new lease didn't happen. Your disabling-enabling the interface forced a new IP lease and granted connection to the net.

It could be, I'm debating whether I should swap stuff around to my CFX board and see if it does the same thing. I might fire up my Asus rig and once again test it. If it drops it on all my rigs then I know its not an issue my them, but with my ISP.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 

So I got the opty







The package is indeed sealed and contaning documents. The processor is also in a plastic bag which is also sealed and sitting in a tray with foam at the bottom. So it's definitely brand new. Still has Warranty till 11/2010. The bad news is that it's a LCB9E 0734 and I can't find any o/c info on this stepping. Attaching a foto of the package for you to see.


Like everyone else said, the LCB9E's are good overclockers. I run mine @
2903.5 @ 1.36v 24/7. If I had better cooling Id run it at 3003 but I have to bump it 0.10v to get it stable.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


It could be, I'm debating whether I should swap stuff around to my CFX board and see if it does the same thing. I might fire up my Asus rig and once again test it. If it drops it on all my rigs then I know its not an issue my them, but with my ISP.


BlackOmega, this is an excellent idea for troubleshooting. Keep us informed.

Good luck


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


It could be, I'm debating whether I should swap stuff around to my CFX board and see if it does the same thing. I might fire up my Asus rig and once again test it. If it drops it on all my rigs then I know its not an issue my them, but with my ISP.


This would solve an IRQ conflict problem. You can check for conflicts under the hardware management of windows and if there are any you could manually assign different IRQ addresses at the BIOS.
What are you using to get internet? Is it a modem/router? If so you could try restarting it and see if this solves the problem. Most routers get sh***y when working for many days without having a restart.


----------



## Hueristic

BO I just remebered, A corrupt winsock will cause this issue. I think if you google it there are tools available. Sorry it took soo long, my memeory is not what it used to be.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


This would solve an IRQ conflict problem. You can check for conflicts under the hardware management of windows and if there are any you could manually assign different IRQ addresses at the BIOS.
What are you using to get internet? Is it a modem/router? If so you could try restarting it and see if this solves the problem. Most routers get sh***y when working for many days without having a restart.



I restarted it yesterday. And it actually seems worse.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


Most routers get when working for many days without having a restart.


MikeV_E36, if you're having to do this quite often then that might be a sign of hardware failure. I rarely power cycle my WRT54G. When I say rare I mean like once or twice a year and that is usually when I'm troubleshooting something with my ISP.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


BO I just remebered, A corrupt winsock will cause this issue. I think if you google it there are tools available. Sorry it took soo long, my memeory is not what it used to be.










Hueristic, you must be referring to the Winsock fix









Good luck


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
MikeV_E36, if you're having to do this quite often then that might be a sign of hardware failure.


My WRT54GL running on DDWRTv24 gets crappy (slow) after 5 weeks of continous operation and that happens cause it buffers get full and there're no software mechanisms to flash them. I've scheduled a reboot once a week so it runs fine.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
My WRT54GL running on DDWRTv24 gets crappy (slow) after 5 weeks of continous operation and that happens cause it buffers get full and there're no software mechanisms to flash them. I've scheduled a reboot once a week so it runs fine.

MikeV_E36, what version WRT54G do you have? The newer revisions came out with lesser memory then the older ones. This explains why you would have to clear the buffer so often. Linksys never configured the internal buffer to clear itself hence. You must have a lot of traffic on your home network to fill up the buffer that quick.

Good luck


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
MikeV_E36, what version WRT54G do you have? The newer revisions came out with lesser memory then the older ones. This explains why you would have to clear the buffer so often. Linksys never configured the internal buffer to clear itself hence. You must have a lot of traffic on your home network to fill up the buffer that quick.

Good luck









It's a WRT54GL v1.1 and I have it flashed with dd-wrt v24-sp1 std-special. The total memory is 12.6mb and this very time i have only 0.6mb free







. The connections' buffer does flush the timed-out ones so I think there is some proccess of dd-wrt that's eating the memory. I do have a lot of traffic on the network though, I seed about 20 torrents daily and I share connection wirelessly to my neighbor nextdoor.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Hueristic, you must be referring to the Winsock fix









































Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


MikeV_E36, what version WRT54G do you have? The newer revisions came out with lesser memory then the older ones. This explains why you would have to clear the buffer so often. Linksys never configured the internal buffer to clear itself hence. You must have a lot of traffic on your home network to fill up the buffer that quick.


























Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


It's a WRT54GL v1.1 and I have it flashed with dd-wrt v24-sp1 std-special. The total memory is 12.6mb and this very time i have only 0.6mb free







. The connections' buffer does flush the timed-out ones so I think there is some proccess of dd-wrt that's eating the memory. I do have a lot of traffic on the network though, I seed about 20 torrents daily and I share connection wirelessly to my neighbor nextdoor.


yeah I replaced my ver. 2.2 with a 1.0 for the larger mem cache. Funny only product I've seen that gets worse as time goes on! LOL

I use miro for tons of RSS feeds and it uses torrent tech so all the open ports used to strangle my old router. I had to lower the allowed connections down to 36! 37 or higher and it would choke in 15 minutes (took me awhile to figure that one out







). so anyway with the 1.1 version I have 4096 allowed connections and haven't had to reboot in 6 months so far! I'm pretty happy about that. DD-WRT is the bomb!


----------



## N2Gaming

I think I may need to flash my Linksys WRT54GS. I am having a BSOD issue every time I try to disable and re enable the network card. Any one have any idea's on this???

Thank you,

N2G


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I think I may need to flash my Linksys WRT54GS. I am having a BSOD issue every time I try to disable and re enable the network card. Any one have any idea's on this???

Thank you,

N2G


That sounds like a driver issue with your NIC not your router. Go into device manager and remove the NIC driver, reboot and reinstall it.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
I have 4096 allowed connections and haven't had to reboot in 6 months so far! I'm pretty happy about that. DD-WRT is the bomb!

I've my cons set at 4096 and timeout at 120secs for both tcp and udp, though if the router works for many days the navigation in the GUI is really slow.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
That sounds like a driver issue with your NIC not your router. Go into device manager and remove the NIC driver, reboot and reinstall it.









Not in one in a million could the router be causing BSODs.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
I've my cons set at 4096 and timeout at 120secs for both tcp and udp, though if the router works for many days the navigation in the GUI is really slow.








Not in one in a million could the router be causing BSODs.

OK You guys may be right about that but how can you explain this. Every time I hook this pc up to the router it BSOD's after reacquiring the IP lease. Now if I hook it up to my other computer and remove the router out of the equation then the system is able to reacquire a new lease and IP add and then able to surf the web check email etc.

Confused I am.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
OK You guys may be right about that but how can you explain this. Every time I hook this pc up to the router it BSOD's after reacquiring the IP lease. *Now if I hook it up to my other computer* and remove the router out of the equation then the system is able to reacquire a new lease and IP add and then able to surf the web check email etc.

Confused I am.

The other computer has a DHCP server running? Does your mobo have two NICs? If so try the other one on the router and tell us if you still get BSODs after the IP leasing.


----------



## N2Gaming

OK I will rename both nic ports to BSOD Test 1 and the Other to BSOD Test 2 then I will disable both and enable only 1 and run only one cable to that nick. Then if it BSOD's I will disable the 1st nic port and duplicate with 2nd nic port. I will let you all know how it goes. I may be gone for a while


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
*OK I will rename both nic ports to BSOD Test 1 and the Other to BSOD Test 2* then I will disable both and enable only 1 and run only one cable to that nick. Then if it BSOD's I will disable the 1st nic port and duplicate with 2nd nic port. I will let you all know how it goes. I may be gone for a while




















































:l achen:


----------



## N2Gaming

well my first attemp was fine. So I'm just gonna move the nic cable over one port and see if it BSOD's on me. If it does then we have narrowed down the probblem.









EDIT: Just as soon as I plugged the nic cable into the other port whamo BSOD like it was just waiting for me to plug it in so that it could say see I told you so.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
well my first attemp was fine. So I'm just gonna move the nic cable over one port and see if it BSOD's on me. If it does then we have narrowed down the probblem.



















Quote:

EDIT: Just as soon as I plugged the nic cable into the other port whamo BSOD lke it was just waiting for me to plug it in and say see I told you so.








Remove the driver for this one.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 









Remove the driver for this one.









NOw I remember having a problem finding the driver for this port. apparently the one that was installed was working but causing BSOD's just recently. Hm I starting to think my 2-3 hours on the phone w/microsoft was a waist of time and that I fixed the problem w/out there help by switching nic ports. So I will go to Nvidia to see if I can find the correct driver for this nic port.

Thanks guys.

N2G


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
The other computer has a DHCP server running? Does your mobo have two NICs? If so try the other one on the router and tell us if you still get BSODs after the IP leasing.

If I ran a hub from the DHCP Server computer would that work the same way as a router but w/less security?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


If I ran a hub from the DHCP Server computer would that work the same way as a router but w/less security?


N2Gaming, did you try reinstalling the NIC drivers first? If this is a nForce 4 chipset then please visit nvidia's website and download the chipset drivers. The ethernet controller drivers should be included in the installer. If that doesn't resolve then I recommend disabling both physical ports via BIOS. If you have any PCI network cards then go ahead and throw one in. Test with that and see if that works. You should have one of these for backup and testing purposes...

Stick with your router, there is no reason to not use it. A hub offers less security and it's only a layer 2 device. If you decide to use the hub then you'll have to designate a computer that will be the gateway to the internet and it must also have two network cards. One would be for home network and the other for the internet. A router eliminates the above and acts as one (layer 3 device).

I personally have never seen a machine get a BSOD after connecting a ethernet cable to a nic. It's either driver related or hardware (onboard ethernet controller).

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, did you try reinstalling the NIC drivers first? If this is a nForce 4 chipset then please visit nvidia's website and download the chipset drivers. The ethernet controller drivers should be included in the installer. If that doesn't resolve then I recommend disabling both physical ports via BIOS. If you have any PCI network cards then go ahead and throw one in. Test with that and see if that works. You should have one of these for backup and testing purposes...

Stick with your router, there is no reason to not use it. A hub offers less security and it's only a layer 2 device. If you decide to use the hub then you'll have to designate a computer that will be the gateway to the internet and it must also have two network cards. One would be for home network and the other for the internet. A router eliminates the above and acts as one (layer 3 device).

I personally have never seen a machine get a BSOD after connecting a ethernet cable to a nic. It's either driver related or hardware (onboard ethernet controller).

Good luck











Thank you think3r, I am able to use the Marvel Yukon Gigabit Nic port and go on the www no problem but when I enable and connect the nic for the Vitesse VSC8201 Gigabit Phy port the system BSOD's. So it must be a driver issue "I hope that's all it is any way". I just have not taken the time to remove all of the drivers from all their locations. I have a messed up install and am putting off a re install as long as possible. That is a real head ache and pain in the A that I rather put off for a rainy day. Like when I have no connection. I can have a cable plugged into the the Vitesse VSC8201 Gigabit Phy port and hooked up to another pc or the router as long as it is disabled. As soon as I enable it Boom BSOD.









I vaguely remember not being able to install the drivers for this nic in the past but forgot about it. So I think when I stripped the system from the Opty and Ballistix to clean it and put the ocz and 3500+ back in it I just used the wrong port and forgot about the port not working. I thought I was able to use them all but I guess I never really checked it out. In any case I have the router hooked up now and it seems to be working w/o a hitch @ 2500Mhz 2.5 / 3 / 2 / 5 / 7 1T DDR314







Oh I have to change that right now


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I vaguely remember not being able to install the drivers for this nic in the past but forgot about it. So I think when I stripped the system from the Opty and Ballistix to clean it and put the ocz and 3500+ back in it I just used the wrong port and forgot about the port not working.


N2Gaming, there may actually be something wrong with that controller. This wouldn't be the first time that I have seen onboard controllers fail.

Let us know when you get around to reinstalling the drivers.

Good luck buddy


----------



## AllenG

One to add... My cute little OEM Freight train.


----------



## Hueristic

WEll Guys I lapped (Actually taught my nephew how and he did most the work)my 3200+ with a Digital Orbitor sander with 100 grit! then used 200 grit emery paper and it looks pretty good. I'll edit to upload pics.









Welcome ALLENG.


----------



## BlackOmega

Whats a _digital_ orbitor sander? I have a pneumatic random orbit sander.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Whats a _digital_ orbitor sander? I have a pneumatic random orbit sander.


OMG! DA Pneumatic sander. Actually DA== Dual Action. LOL I must be losing my mind!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
OMG! DA Pneumatic sander. Actually DA== Dual Action. LOL I must be losing my mind!









Lol thats what mine is too. Its meant for sanding cars lol.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AllenG* 
One to add... My cute little OEM Freight train.

AllenG, looking good









Welcome to the club. I have added you to the roster. I hope you enjoy your stay.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AllenG* 
One to add... My cute little OEM Freight train.










Welcome to the club buddy.









Good job on the compack oem Overclock.


----------



## pez

Ok, off topic, but I got my new rig and I gotz two things to show off...and I didn't even have to reformat.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Wow, pez, that's only about 1000 or so 3DMarks above my best on this dual-core...


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Wow, pez, that's only about 1000 or so 3DMarks above my best on this dual-core...










 I was just thinking the same thing. It only scored 205 points more than my sig rig. Weird thing is my opty got a higher CPU score 2272, but my SM2.0 and SM3.0 scores were lower.







maybe its got something to do with the pcie 2.0 slot?

Have you dabbled in OCing it yet?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Wow, pez, that's only about 1000 or so 3DMarks above my best on this dual-core...










Joe, same here....

Interesting enough the AM2 scores aren't to far away from our S939 results. I wish I would have kept my 4850 3DMark06 benches.

Pez is probably overclocking as we speak









Good luck


----------



## HothBase

When I went from the x1950 GT to the HD 3850 I gained over 4000 3DMarks.
You would expect the difference between the 3850 and 4870 to be even greater than that, but it's only like 2000.
I guess that shows what a silly benchmark 3DMark is?


----------



## N2Gaming

I have a question regarding CPU and video Display.

Will a Mobo post and beep but not display video if some part of a cpu is bad???

I got just got the Ebay opteron today and put it in one of my dfi sli dr boards and installed everything. When I powered it on it posts but it does not display any video and only 1 of the 4 red lights stay lit on the mobo w/no video signal to monitor. I used more then one vid card so i don't think it's a video card issue.

Do you guys think the cpu being bad could cause the above mentioned symptoms???

Thank you,

N2G


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I have a question regarding CPU and video Display.

Will a Mobo post and beep but not display video if some part of a cpu is bad???

I got just got the Ebay opteron today and put it in one of my dfi sli dr boards and installed everything. When I powered it on it posts but it does not display any video and only 1 of the 4 red lights stay lit on the mobo w/no video signal to monitor. I used more then one vid card so i don't think it's a video card issue.

Do you guys think the cpu being bad could cause the above mentioned symptoms???

Thank you,

N2G


N2G, I would suspect anything other than the CPU for this kind of failure.

Here is the sequence of POST Debug LEDs for the LANParty boards that have the four LEDs; the LEDs should turn off one by one until none are on:

4 - System Startup
3 - CPU detected
2 - RAM detected
1 - VGA detected
0 - Successful POST

The system is hanging on GPU detection. Accordingly, double-check your PCI-E slots (see if the SLI jumpers are in single GPU mode, if this is a non-Expert/non-Venus board), whether or not the PCI-E power connector is on correctly, and if all the power connectors on the board are connected properly. Also, try switching DVI outputs to see if that might make a difference.

If all else fails, try a PCI video card; if there is video output from this, then the problem is most likely the PCI-E slot(s).

Good luck.


----------



## GuardianOdin

I'm done with ebay









I bought a Asus mother,2Gb of generic DDR400 RAM and a Athlon3700+

The motherboard is damaged and is in no way stable. The RAM is actually DDR333 and only 1Gb works. The CPU....I simply have no clue. It runs, but crashes at stock and even under clocked.

I tested all the parts in 3 separate rigs and no luck. I guess that what I get buying off ebay. So now I have a large 939 paperweight that was suppose to be my friends present.

Sorry I know it's not very on topic to the thread, I'm just very irritated.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I have a question regarding CPU and video Display.

Will a Mobo post and beep but not display video if some part of a cpu is bad???

I got just got the Ebay opteron today and put it in one of my dfi sli dr boards and installed everything. When I powered it on it posts but it does not display any video and only 1 of the 4 red lights stay lit on the mobo w/no video signal to monitor. I used more then one vid card so i don't think it's a video card issue.

Do you guys think the cpu being bad could cause the above mentioned symptoms???

Thank you,

N2G

Maybe it's a BIOS issue?? Are you flashed to the latest available? The opty maybe is not supported by the current.

Guyz I have a question for you. If I install my new opty on the system will the windows with the prior cpu config boot?? I'm afraid the windows will be hanging when loading the ACPI table







What do you think?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I have a question regarding CPU and video Display.

Will a Mobo post and beep but not display video if some part of a cpu is bad???

I got just got the Ebay opteron today and put it in one of my dfi sli dr boards and installed everything. When I powered it on it posts but it does not display any video and only 1 of the 4 red lights stay lit on the mobo w/no video signal to monitor. I used more then one vid card so i don't think it's a video card issue.

Do you guys think the cpu being bad could cause the above mentioned symptoms???

Thank you,

N2G

Use one stick of RAM to help troubleshoot.Reset the CMOS/BIOS and disconnect the HDD "for now" .You may have to reboot a number of times with the DFI Motherboard.

I had to do this with my Ultra-D and Expert. Just to warn you. My Ultra-D took about 2 hours of tinkering and my Expert took about 4 hours. I really don't know why to be honest.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Wow, pez, that's only about 1000 or so 3DMarks above my best on this dual-core...









Well it's still at it's stock 2.7GHz.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I was just thinking the same thing. It only scored 205 points more than my sig rig. Weird thing is my opty got a higher CPU score 2272, but my SM2.0 and SM3.0 scores were lower.







maybe its got something to do with the pcie 2.0 slot?

Have you dabbled in OCing it yet?

Well my card is OC'ed to 790/1100, so that could be why as well. I think the memory bandwidth I have it 140.8GB/s. I still get some slight drops in CS:S, but no where near as much as with the S939 chip. I actually haven't started OC'ing. I'm currently testing for stability. Also, these temps are niceeee. I think it's an added bonus that this motherboard actually has the 4th pin for fan control on the the CPU Fan hook-up. The highest temp after 3 hours of stability testing shows to be 37C, and idle as per the SS is 27. I didn't use coretemp because it was only recognizing one core, so I'm thinking it needs some kinda update. Oh, and if I remember correctly, the Kuma is supposed to be about 25% better clock for clock than the AM2 dual cores. It gets a lovely 5.5 in Vista. Soon, my primary HDD will be what holds that score back







.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, same here....

Interesting enough the AM2 scores aren't to far away from our S939 results. I wish I would have kept my 4850 3DMark06 benches.

Pez is probably overclocking as we speak









Good luck

No, sadly I haven't started to OC yet. I figured I'd play it safe and make sure it's stable at stock before I run into any problems. One reason i was happy about the Kuma was that it was a black edition and had a nice little unlocked multi. So, I can just move it from x13.5 to 14 and get a 100mhz OC right there. Once it's stable, which I'm kinda impatient and 3 hours is a pretty good amount of time (







), I'll probably start a little slower, though I have to figure out a few things about the RAM divi's and such. For example, the RAM divi is currently set at x5.33, so it's pretty common sense, but I have to delve more into it.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


N2G, I would suspect anything other than the CPU for this kind of failure.

Here is the sequence of POST Debug LEDs for the LANParty boards that have the four LEDs; the LEDs should turn off one by one until none are on:

4 - System Startup
3 - CPU detected
2 - RAM detected
1 - VGA detected
0 - Successful POST

The system is hanging on GPU detection. Accordingly, double-check your PCI-E slots (see if the SLI jumpers are in single GPU mode, if this is a non-Expert/non-Venus board), whether or not the PCI-E power connector is on correctly, and if all the power connectors on the board are connected properly. Also, try switching DVI outputs to see if that might make a difference.

If all else fails, try a PCI video card; if there is video output from this, then the problem is most likely the PCI-E slot(s).

Good luck.










Thanks txtmstrjoe, I originally started w/a pci vid card so if the proc was bad I would not ruin a more expensive PCIe card. Then I tried a known good 8600GTS card. The sli jumpers have always been in the cingle video mode, the pins closest to the cpu or north side of the mobo.

Does one light staying on mean the mobo is in the process of detecting the video card or does one light on mean that it has detected the video card???

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


Maybe it's a BIOS issue?? Are you flashed to the latest available? The opty maybe is not supported by the current.

Guyz I have a question for you. If I install my new opty on the system will the windows with the prior cpu config boot?? I'm afraid the windows will be hanging when loading the ACPI table







What do you think?


I have not flashed the bios yet on this board. I will try a single core 3500+ again in this board and see if that does the trick. I may begin to suspect bios If it boots w/a cingle core 3500+.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Use one stick of RAM to help troubleshoot.Reset the CMOS/BIOS and disconnect the HDD "for now" .You may have to reboot a number of times with the DFI Motherboard.

I had to do this with my Ultra-D and Expert. Just to warn you. My Ultra-D took about 2 hours of tinkering and my Expert took about 4 hours. I really don't know why to be honest.


Thanks GO, I'm using the corsair PSU that I was suspecting to be bad on the M2N32 system. So I may swop out power supplies and see if it helps the problem. I had this board working just fine the last time I used it a couple of months ago while testing w/my a64 3500+ single core and two sticks of my ocz ddr400 plats.

ORDER OF DIAGNOSTICS TO BE PERFORMED.

1 Swop out power supply
2 remove one stick of ram
3 use single core cpu


----------



## txtmstrjoe

N2G, one LED on means that it's in the process of detecting the GPU. It winks off when it finally finds it.

Good luck.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


N2G, one LED on means that it's in the process of detecting the GPU. It winks off when it finally finds it.

Good luck.










Thanks joe,

We could just chalk this one up to a very Tired N2G last night making bone head moves and forgeting things as normal.

My 8600GTS card requires both 12 & 5v rails and a factory xfx supplied addaptor to make the video card work proplerly. I'm not 100 % sure but I think the pci slots may be bad on this board. I was never able to get standard pci video card working on this board.

I am this day's bone head of this thread. I was so tired last knight after racing NFS HS w/Hueristic that I forgot about the xfx pwr plug for the video card. BTW I ran Hue's install for the EP patch 4_50. exe and it worked flawlessly all night. Soryy about last night mikev I made some singel player video changes that was causing the game to crash on me. Problem resolved.

Thanks guys for all your moral and Technical support.

N2G

I just pushed the fsb to 210 on the recently purchased opty 180









GO as far as buying on ebay







I love it and most of the times if you ask the right questions before you buy you will be covered by paypal if you get something other then what you were expecting.

EDIT: I just got the new opteron to 2640Mhz on minimul voltage of 1.296 FTW I will not push it too much untill I get the stock 3500+ HSF swopped out w/one of my zalman 9700's I am running it on Win 7 ATM and I don't have any temp monitoring apps installed.


----------



## Pest

Hey fellow 939er's. I have some sad news. It would appear that my Asus A8N32-SLI bit the bullet yesterday when it just randomly shut off.

I have taken the motherboard out of the case and tried different PSU's and another 939 cpu with and without the RAM, but nothing seems to work. The motherboard light is on and when I power it up all I get is a quick surge of power just enough to flash the cpu fan led's for a millisecond.

If you guys can think of anything else I can try please let me know.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey blitz I think their may be a problem with the formula when using ram spds of 180/ddr360. have you tried that ram spd yet. the formula shows the same spd as 166/ddr333









Thank you,

N2G


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Pest, what were you doing on the system when the random shut-off occurred?

Have you tried a CMOS reset?

Keep us posted, and good luck.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


.
Will a Mobo post and beep but not display video if some part of a cpu is bad???

I got just got the Ebay opteron today and put it in one of my dfi sli dr boards and installed everything. When I powered it on it posts but it does not display any video and only 1 of the 4 red lights stay lit on the mobo w/no video signal to monitor. I used more then one vid card so i don't think it's a video card issue.

Do you guys think the cpu being bad could cause the above mentioned symptoms???


N2Gaming, was this DFI board working before the CPU swap? I'm assuming it was. I was getting the (1) LED light on my DFI SLI-DR when I first put the system together. Turns out the board wasn't too happy with my Seasonic S12 500W power supply. Have you tried giving it another shot with a different PSU? Have you had luck testing with a different processor?

Sorry if I get tad confused. I have troubles keeping up with all the hardware changes you guys do









Guardian, sorry to hear the bad news about your ebay purchases.

Good luck guys


----------



## Pest

I wasn't using the computer when it shut off. I believe only Opera was open and I have tried a CMOS reset to no avail.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pest* 
I wasn't using the computer when it shut off. I believe only Opera was open and I have tried a CMOS reset to no avail.

Pest, do you notice any physical damage to the board (ie. bulged/leaky capacitors)? Are you plugged into a surge/ups device?

Good luck


----------



## Pest

thlnk3r, no physical damage on the board and it was plugged into a surge protector. I've been wracking my brain trying to come up with other scenarios to try, but I'm coming to the conclusion that the board has just had it. Might have been the 300fbs I was running it at


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pest* 
thlnk3r, no physical damage on the board and it was plugged into a surge protector. I've been wracking my brain trying to come up with other scenarios to try, but I'm coming to the conclusion that the board has just had it. Might have been the 300fbs I was running it at









Pest, that's certainly possible. I had to RMA my original A8N32-SLI Deluxe a couple of years ago.

This might be a case of damaged VRMs on the board. I think this board is especially vulnerable to this problem, particularly if the heatsinks surrounding the CPU socket do not receive any air flow.

Is the board still under warranty? If it is, I would recommend requesting an RMA with ASUS. They treated me very well when mine kicked the bucket.









Good luck.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, was this DFI board working before the CPU swap? I'm assuming it was. I was getting the (1) LED light on my DFI SLI-DR when I first put the system together. Turns out the board wasn't too happy with my Seasonic S12 500W power supply. Have you tried giving it another shot with a different PSU? Have you had luck testing with a different processor?

Sorry if I get tad confused. I have troubles keeping up with all the hardware changes you guys do









Guardian, sorry to hear the bad news about your ebay purchases.

Good luck guys

.
Thank you, think3r, I am using my 2nd backup DFI NF4 SLI DR board for testing the cpu and ram that I just purchased " I have 2 x this mobo " . so far the ram and cpu look to be good.

Yeah this thread seems to move along pretty fast.







So I'll let you catch up w/all the post's but here is what I have todate

The following is by no means a bragging or look what I have list, it is mearly a legend for think3r so he will be a little more up to date w/what I am doing and what I'm doing it with.









*AM2 Hardware:*

3x M2N32 SLI Deluxe mobo's

2x X2 5400+ BE CPU's

6x OCZ 1G SLI ddr800 ram

2x Corsair xms2 1G SLI ddr800 ram

*939 Hardware:*

1x A8N32 SLI Deluxe mobo

2x DFI NF4 SLI DR mobo's ( one is a daily driver and the second the system in question it is being tested ATM w/the new opteron 180 and OCZ Plats)

2x DFI NF4 UT SLI DR Expert mobo's ( One works have not test'd 2nd becuase it is missing cap's that I removed for use on the 1st expert board.)

2x Opty 180 CPU's

1x A64 3500+ single core CPU

2x Crucial Ballistix ddr500

2x Mushkin ddr 400

4x OCZ ddr 400 model OCZ4002048ELDCPE-K

*Power Supplies:*

2x Corsair 620hx

1x ThermalTake 700w toughpower

1x Enermax 600w SLI cerified

I plan on using all 4 gig of the OCZ in one system after I finish testing the new CPU and Ram. I will then test all the mobo's to see what board is the most compatible w/all 4 sticks while providing the best all around performance.

Edit: I left out the Intel list because this is a AMD thread.


----------



## pez

I want a corsair 620hx modular :/. You should "gift" me one







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


I want a corsair 620hx modular :/. You should "gift" me one







.


I gota commend you on a nice try. Sure I'll give you one when pigs fly.


----------



## Pest

txtmstrjoe, I have considered RMA, however after reading their policy it seems that the board can have no physical damage.

While there is no new physical damage about a year and a half to two years ago one of the firewire ports on the motherboard burnt up. As this did not effect the board in anyway I deiced not to RMA it. I realize that I could say this was what recently happened in an RMA report but I'm not sure how comfortable I feel about saying that.

Suggestions on what I should do? I mean, I'd have to lie about overclocking the board anyway, right?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pest*


txtmstrjoe, I have considered RMA, however after reading their policy it seems that the board can have no physical damage.

While there is no new physical damage about a year and a half to two years ago one of the firewire ports on the motherboard burnt up. As this did not effect the board in anyway I deiced not to RMA it. I realize that I could say this was what recently happened in an RMA report but I'm not sure how comfortable I feel about saying that.

Suggestions on what I should do? I mean, I'd have to lie about overclocking the board anyway, right?


Pest, joe has said in an earlier post here in this thread that he disclosed his overclocking to ASUS and they still honored the warranty. As far as the 1394 port I would not lie about it, it may be the first indication that you had an underlying problem that did not truly show up until now.

Good Luck,

N2G

Edit: I figured I would ask this since we are mentioning RMA for the A8N32 mobo. Ok here goes,
where is the serial number sticker on these boards located and what does it look like size color etc

thnx


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pest*


txtmstrjoe, I have considered RMA, however after reading their policy it seems that the board can have no physical damage.

While there is no new physical damage about a year and a half to two years ago one of the firewire ports on the motherboard burnt up. As this did not effect the board in anyway I deiced not to RMA it. I realize that I could say this was what recently happened in an RMA report but I'm not sure how comfortable I feel about saying that.

Suggestions on what I should do? *I mean, I'd have to lie about overclocking the board anyway, right?*


Absolutely not. ASUS asked me if I had done any overclocking on my old board, and I told them that I did. They still authorized an RMA, and moreover, they gave me a brand new motherboard for my broken one (I retained the serial number from my original, and I got a totally different, sealed motherboard in return). I would say that they treated me very well.









I wouldn't hesitate telling them the straight goods about the Firewire port issue as well, as this seems totally unrelated to the current problem.

Anyway, hopefully they will treat you as well as they did me.

Good luck.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Edit: I figured I would ask this since we are mentioning RMA for the A8N32 mobo. Ok here goes,
where is the serial number sticker on these boards located and what does it look like size color etc


N2Gaming, the serial number may be listed on a sticker in between your PCI slots. It should also have a barcode on there as well. The serial number should also be located on the side of the box.

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

N2, my serial number is on the parallel port, kind of pinkish in color. It roughly 10mm x 26mm.

Pest, have you tried the "hard" CMOS reset procedure? I had a memory issue with my Kingston RAM and it caused my system to do something similar. I stripped it down to the bare necessities (1 GPU, 1 Stick RAM, etc.), and this is according to ASUS's guide that I was sent from their tech support. Pop the battery out, put it in *backwards* for 30 seconds, then install normally. This resolved my issue, hopefully it'll work on yours. overclocked.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


N2, my serial number is on the parallel port, kind of pinkish in color. It roughly 10mm x 26mm.


Thank you BlackOmega,

I have a little pink sticker in the same location


----------



## Pest

Thanks for all the help guys.
BlackOmega, thanks for the idea of a "hard" CMOS reset but, again, nothing happened. Looks like I'll be trying RMA.
txtmstrjoe, how long did your RMA take?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pest* 
Thanks for all the help guys.
BlackOmega, thank for the idea of a "hard" CMOS reset but, again, nothing happened. Looks like I'll be trying RMA.
*txtmstrjoe, how long did your RMA take*?

About two and a half weeks, as I recall. Not very long, compared to some stories I've heard.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I gota commend you on a nice try. Sure I'll give you one when pigs fly.










Oh, but A for effort my sir. You'd get a lovely Antec in return lol







. Oh...and my pigs fly now btw, they get like hella hangtime when I throw them from the 43rd floor







.

Well I just sold off my N4SLI-A9, 3800X2, and 4 gigs of Mushkin Redline DDR500 for $200. I think I got rather lucky, so if you can't get at least $200, I'd say you should go for ebay. You could easily get $70 off of the board if it's in good condition, and the CPU's sell for around $60 at least, but I'm not sure about your ram...that's where I got lucky since I had a nice set of RAM







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hi guys updates on my progress.

I loaded a clean install of xp x64 SP2 on my back up board with the recently purchased items. I installed Nvidia Chipset Driver v 15.23 and Gforce driver ver. 180.08 on the following hardware configuration.

DFI NF4 SLI DR Backup mobo
Opty 180 " using a stock 3500+ HSF "
XFX 8600GTS 512Mb
2x1G OCZ DDR400500G 
500G WD Sata2 HDD " I still have not run a drive test, I will do that here in a minute. "
Corsair 620hx was going to check the voltages but I left my multi meter on all night last night







so needless to say the battery is dead. The battery will prolly cost half of what I paid for the meter. it's a tiny 12v battery.
LG sata DVD RW Lightscribe

So far w/everything set at stock values I am passing OCCT v3.0.1 1 hour test with the following temps seen in pics. I also got a chance to test the second port on this board and it seems to not want to work as well, so I'm guessing it is a driver issue. I will load diff drivers to try and get it going and see if this board causes a bsod w/the second nic port as well.


----------



## thlnk3r

Guys, please keep the appraisal questions for the For Sale/Wanted section


----------



## N2Gaming

Nvm


----------



## KnifesEdge

I know you guys can point me in the right direction here on this site. I know I have seen and read some info on delidding here on this site, but even doing a search seems to not find everything. I would like to delid my 185 and I have an old A64 3000 to practice on now. Please provide links if you can even if they are on another site. I am looking for step by step instructions. Thanks in advance.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KnifesEdge* 
I know you guys can point me in the right direction here on this site. I know I have seen and read some info on delidding here on this site, but even doing a search seems to not find everything. I would like to delid my 185 and I have an old A64 3000 to practice on now. Please provide links if you can even if they are on another site. I am looking for step by step instructions. Thanks in advance.

Important read this first: http://www.overclock.net/amd-cpus/10...ron-165-a.html

http://www.overclock.net/amd-cpus/10...-removing.html

http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...-should-i.html

http://www.overclock.net/amd-cpus/86...s-removal.html

http://www.overclock.net/amd-cpus/41...hs-3500-a.html

http://www.overclock.net/amd-cpus/13...-fx60-ihs.html

http://www.overclock.net/amd-cpus/11...ok-my-ish.html

http://www.overclock.net/amd-cpus/99...-2ghz-amd.html

Here is a couple of pictures from when I removed the IHS on my 3500+. I used a mini set of vise grips and a very sharp exacto blade. the vise grips prevented me from go too deep and damaging the ic chips inside the cpu.

BTW did you do a search for IHS removal or just deliding amd??? IHS removal should produce more results.

http://video.google.com/videosearch?q=ihs+removal#


----------



## KnifesEdge

Thanks N2Gaming, that is a lot to look at...thanks. I was searching on delidding, I will try IHS.


----------



## N2Gaming

Ok new problem guys,

I am in case you don't already know by now testing my mobo, cpu, ram & hdd. In any case I noticed that sometimes the system will not post when the ram is used in the orange slots. I'm wondering if this is a mobo, cpu or ram issue. If I move the ram to the yellow slots the system posts and boots just fine. So my guess is either the mobo or the cpu. I am running an extensive Data Lifeguard Diagnostics ATM so I will not be able to run any other test's untill that is done prolly another 1/2 to 1 hour or so.

Any idea's what could be the primary suspect.

Thank you,

N2G


----------



## pez

well next you should try one in the yellow slots and one in the orange and see if it even recognizes the other stick.


----------



## N2Gaming

Thank you Pez, I have finished the Data LifeGuard HDD extensive test and the drive is good.









I'm running the Memtest86+ ATM the one that is built into the bios. I will do many things to try to solve this and be able to always use this ram in the orange slots. I have posted in 4 different area's to find a solution becuase I'm trying to make sure that the CPU is not defective. So far memtest is at 86% running test # 7 w/zero errors. So I'll know in a little while if the ram can be ruled out as defective.

After the ram test I will use a toothbrush to clean out the orange slots and an electric eraser on the gold leads of the ram to make sure that I have a good contact. I will also test the orange slots w/known good ram.

the funny thing is the orange slots were working just fine and then after messing w/the floppy cable to get the Data Lifeguard going the system decided to not post any more using the orange slots. Pft.

Any way I will get to the bottom of it. I just want to make sure that the cpu is not to blame. Sorry if I have said that like a 100 times already

N2G


----------



## BlackOmega

N2, If I'm not mistaken, there's a jumper on the top right side (almost at the very edge) of the board that overvolts the ram. Make sure it's on the correct set of pins and not overvolting your RAM like mad. It should be on the center and left set of pins if you're looking at it with the RAM slots upwards.
Double check your owners manual, but I think your board is the same as mine except for mines not an SLI board.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
N2, If I'm not mistaken, there's a jumper on the top right side (almost at the very edge) of the board that overvolts the ram. Make sure it's on the correct set of pins and not overvolting your RAM like mad. It should be on the center and left set of pins if you're looking at it with the RAM slots upwards.
Double check your owners manual, but I think your board is the same as mine except for mines not an SLI board.

Thank you, the jumpers are on the two slots closest to the cpu and ram sticks. I will check w/the manual and look at my other system config to see if they are identicle.

Memtest86+ just completed one pass with zero errors.

Well I cleaned the orange slots w/toothbrush and ram w/eraser and then put them in the orange slots and the system posted and booted to windows fine. I think the orange slots on the mobo may be a little looser then the yellow slots.

EDIT:

I was just in the bios to disable the memtest and the ram voltage is set to 2.8 and detected in the bios at 2.85v so I don't think that is it. Thanks.

Another thing I want to find out is measuring the actual pcb and leads and compare them against my other set's of ram laying around here the make sure that it's not a ram revision issue that used thinner pcb's and possibly causing some kind of connection issue.

I'll keep you all posted w/my findings

I just noticed the ram that I bought is not what the sticker says it is. the sticker says that it's OCZ4002048ELDCPE-K but CPU-Z is detecting it as OCZ4001024ELPE . They are not even the same. I just sent a email to the sucker on ebay who sold this to me. I'll see how he responds and let you all know.

EDIT #2:

I just found out that the sticker on the ram that I just bought on ebay is different then what the ram actually is. have a look see. My original ram on the left and the one I bought on ebay to the right the one on the right has the same sticker as the one to the left but the one on the right is what the sticker says it is. Man this has me so hot right now.


----------



## pez

Sorry about the not so good luck you're getting N2. It's all that Friday 13th madness. One thing that has me drooling over this board is how it will tell you your RAM frequency before you apply settings. For example, if I move the CPU multi or the FSB any, it'll show what the RAM will be set to, which makes for a big help so that I don't have to accidentally boot. Also, I had a couple moments where my 939 board would've needed to have the CMOS reset, and this board would just boot, say there's a error POSTing and then suggest that I select an option to go back to the last known good setting. I'm by far very impressed with this board. There are plenty of options for OC'ing as I see, but I still have to read up a bit and get used to it.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Sorry about the not so good luck you're getting N2. It's all that Friday 13th madness. One thing that has me drooling over this board is how it will tell you your RAM frequency before you apply settings. For example, if I move the CPU multi or the FSB any, it'll show what the RAM will be set to, which makes for a big help so that I don't have to accidentally boot. Also, I had a couple moments where my 939 board would've needed to have the CMOS reset, and this board would just boot, say there's a error POSTing and then suggest that I select an option to go back to the last known good setting. I'm by far very impressed with this board. There are plenty of options for OC'ing as I see, but I still have to read up a bit and get used to it.


Thanks pez, I hear good things about Gibabyte boards. Like the 2 ounce copper trace or something like that, basically they use heavier traces for all the power that's moving on each lane of trace printed on the PCB only on specific mobo's. This will definately help when it comes to stability. Glad to hear your having fun with your new rig. Come pay us a visit or HERE and express your findings. We would all like to hear your results.









This is the listing of the ram before I made an offer to buy both his cpu and ram as a combo deal. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...:X:RTQ:US:1123


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Another thing I want to find out is measuring the actual pcb and leads and compare them against my other set's of ram laying around here the make sure that it's not a ram revision issue that used thinner pcb's and possibly causing some kind of connection issue.


N2Gaming, your OCZ set more than likely is using brainpower pcb. Look on the edge of each stick and look for any letters and numbers that may read vertical. If they read, "B6U808" then that is 6-layer pcb from BP.

If this is true then you shouldn't have to worry about the quality of the pcb.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, your OCZ set more than likely is using brainpower pcb. Look on the edge of each stick and look for any letters and numbers that may read vertical. If they read, "B6U808" then that is 6-layer pcb from BP.

If this is true then you shouldn't have to worry about the quality of the pcb.

Good luck










Dude thanks a bunch, as a matter of fact they do have that "B6U808" printed on the PCB. You reminded me of something that I forgot to follow up on. I will measure them now w/my Mitutoyo Micrometor and compare them w/the others.

Never the less I think the sticker on the outside of the ram module is incorrect or has been replaced some how. I remain optomistic as I am trying to resolve this amicably with the ebay seller.

EDIT: The OCZ's in question are a steady 0.052 and the Gskill are 0.051 yet they both have the same printing on the PCB on the edge. As far as the measurements, they are a little over a half of a 10th of an inch so the measurements listed above maybe correct, that's if I'm reading the micrometors correctly. Oops I meant my callipers







not micrometors!


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thanks pez, I hear good things about Gibabyte boards. Like the 2 ounce copper trace or something like that, basically they use heavier traces for all the power that's moving on each lane of trace printed on the PCB only on specific mobo's. This will definately help when it comes to stability. Glad to hear your having fun with your new rig. Come pay us a visit or HERE and express your findings. We would all like to hear your results.









This is the listing of the ram before I made an offer to buy both his cpu and ram as a combo deal. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...:X:RTQ:US:1123


Isn't that an Asus club though







But yeah, this board has the 2oz copper trace thing you speak of. Sadly I haven't looked too much into it, but I picked out parts for this build that I've heard awesome things about. I mean the Intel UD3's are the best OCer's, so I said gigabyte is my #1 choice, and I've heard nothing but good about G.SKILL, so I def. went with them.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Isn't that an Asus club though







But yeah, this board has the 2oz copper trace thing you speak of. Sadly I haven't looked too much into it, but I picked out parts for this build that I've heard awesome things about. I mean the Intel UD3's are the best OCer's, so I said gigabyte is my #1 choice, and I've heard nothing but good about G.SKILL, so I def. went with them.


Yes pez it is a native Asus club but I welcome all people to participate in the thread. As far as G.Skill well I don't have a lot of experience w/them. I on the other hand have a lot of time w/using OCZ and I have not been let down as of yet other then w/this last purchase:swearing: I can say that I'm sold on OCZ. Tight timmings and overclockability are useally very good w/OCZ providing you pick the right model ram.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Hey guys, can any of you give this cat a helping hand?
DFI Lanparty UT NF4 SLI-DR Expert won't post


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


I guess that shows what a silly benchmark 3DMark is?


























Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I have a question regarding CPU and video Display.

Will a Mobo post and beep but not display video if some part of a cpu is bad???


Absolutely not.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


N2G, I would suspect anything other than the CPU for this kind of failure.

Here is the sequence of POST Debug LEDs for the LANParty boards that have the four LEDs; the LEDs should turn off one by one until none are on:

4 - System Startup
3 - CPU detected
2 - RAM detected
1 - VGA detected
0 - Successful POST
...


Great info. +1 Vrep!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


I'm done with ebay







...Sorry I know it's not very on topic to the thread, I'm just very irritated.


Sorry to heare that GO, Stop payment (did you use paypal?)

Where you been? We don't see you enough in this thread anymore!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


If I install my new opty on the system will the windows with the prior cpu config boot?? I'm afraid the windows will be hanging when loading the ACPI table







What do you think?


CPU swapps should not affect your windows install. If you think there is a driver issue then just remove it and redetect it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pest*


Hey fellow 939er's. I have some sad news. It would appear that my Asus A8N32-SLI bit the bullet yesterday when it just randomly shut off....



Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pest, do you notice any physical damage to the board (ie. bulged/leaky capacitors)? Are you plugged into a surge/ups device?


:yesir: my first thought.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I gota commend you on a nice try. Sure I'll give you one when pigs fly.




















Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pest*


Suggestions on what I should do? I mean, I'd have to lie about overclocking the board anyway, right?


Asus is great on RMA unless you try to scam them, Just tell them the truth and you will be fine. You have tried a different PS?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Absolutely not. ASUS asked me if I had done any overclocking on my old board, and I told them that I did. They still authorized an RMA, and moreover, they gave me a brand new motherboard for my broken one (I retained the serial number from my original, and I got a totally different, sealed motherboard in return). I would say that they treated me very well.









I wouldn't hesitate telling them the straight goods about the Firewire port issue as well, as this seems totally unrelated to the current problem.

Anyway, hopefully they will treat you as well as they did me.

Good luck.




















Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


N2, my serial number is on the parallel port, kind of pinkish in color. It roughly 10mm x 26mm.

Pest, have you tried the "hard" CMOS reset procedure? I had a memory issue with my Kingston RAM and it caused my system to do something similar. I stripped it down to the bare necessities (1 GPU, 1 Stick RAM, etc.), and this is according to ASUS's guide that I was sent from their tech support. *Pop the battery out, put it in backwards for 30 seconds*, then install normally. This resolved my issue, hopefully it'll work on yours. overclocked.


+rep for this, it seems it is a forced hard reset method. Like when leaveing the battery out for a day or 2.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KnifesEdge*


I know you guys can point me in the right direction here on this site. I know I have seen and read some info on delidding here on this site, but even doing a search seems to not find everything. I would like to delid my 185 and I have an old A64 3000 to practice on now. Please provide links if you can even if they are on another site. I am looking for step by step instructions. Thanks in advance.


I'll do it for you! Just don't be surprised if it comes back with a 9X multi!









+rep for you on the great delidding info N2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


This is the listing of the ram before I made an offer to buy both his cpu and ram as a combo deal. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...:X:RTQ:US:1123


It is possible that the guy has been useing the ram not knowing it was mislabeled, I would contact OCZ (they may replace it).

Man I'm gone for 1 day and I come back to 4 pages and a hangover! Well this should teach me to never ever leave my chair!


----------



## Blitz6804

Okay... first and foremost, today is Pi Day in the United States. That is, March 14 or 3-14 as being demonstrative of 3.14159265... Completely intentionally (okay, not completely), this is my 3142nd post. That is, it is 100xPi, and then properly rounded. (Proof will appear in this post shortly. Please do not quote me until it does.) I had intended to wait until first thing this morning to post, but due to my family being staying with me, I got delayed.










That said, I can now give you a backlogged multipost.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


What does DMZ stand for? Demilitarized zone? Only thing I can think of.


Exactly. The DMZ should only be used for testing purposes. If you are trying to game with someone, and it is failing, try putting the PC into the DMZ. If it works then, you need to open ports on your router. (If it still fails, the problem is not with the hardware firewall.) Once you test, take the computer back out of the DMZ, and open only the necessary ports.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Stick with your router, there is no reason to not use it. A hub offers less security and it's only a layer 2 device. If you decide to use the hub then you'll have to designate a computer that will be the gateway to the internet and it must also have two network cards. One would be for home network and the other for the internet. A router eliminates the above and acts as one (layer 3 device).


I concur. A hub is only useful to expand the number of ports on a router. That is, if you have a 4-port router (like I do) and a 5-port hub (like I do), you will have a total of 7 "router" ports. Three devices go into the router, four go into the hub.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AllenG*


One to add... My cute little OEM Freight train.


Sorry about the delay, PC access has been sporadic. I will add you to the off-site roster later in the week.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Wow, pez, that's only about 1000 or so 3DMarks above my best on this dual-core...










Sounds about right. With the Brisbane (AM2), they performed identical clock-for-clock in my experience. That is, my Toledo scored the same in 3DMark06 at 2.8 GHz as does my Brisbane. The Kuma (AM2+) slightly beats a Brisbane clock-for-clock. His Kuma at 2.7 GHz scores about the same as my Brisbane at 2.8 GHz.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Interesting enough the AM2 scores aren't to far away from our S939 results. I wish I would have kept my 4850 3DMark06 benches.


They are substantially similar. Unless you are going AM2+/AM3, there is no reason to upgrade from 939 at this time.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


You would expect the difference between the 3850 and 4870 to be even greater than that, but it's only like 2000.
I guess that shows what a silly benchmark 3DMark is?


Yeah, it is pretty stilted. 2x HD 3850 only scored 500 points less in the overall score than 1x HD 4870x2.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pest*


I have taken the motherboard out of the case and tried different PSU's and another 939 cpu with and without the RAM, but nothing seems to work. The motherboard light is on and when I power it up all I get is a quick surge of power just enough to flash the cpu fan led's for a millisecond.

If you guys can think of anything else I can try please let me know.


The same thing happens with my Abit AT8-32x. That board is now sitting dead in the garage. I am sorry to hear about your misfortune.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hey blitz I think their may be a problem with the formula when using ram spds of 180/ddr360. have you tried that ram spd yet. the formula shows the same spd as 166/ddr333


Have you tested both in CPU-Z? Unless I am mistaken, that is actually possible.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pest*


While there is no new physical damage about a year and a half to two years ago one of the firewire ports on the motherboard burnt up. As this did not effect the board in anyway I deiced not to RMA it.


Be honest. Tell them that a firewire port on the motherboard died. Since you did not need it (I assume you have another?) you figured you would not waste the RMA department's valuable time and resources. You however need to when the computer no longer functions.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


About two and a half weeks, as I recall. Not very long, compared to some stories I've heard.










Gigabyte is about 6 weeks round trip.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KnifesEdge*


I know you guys can point me in the right direction here on this site. I know I have seen and read some info on delidding here on this site, but even doing a search seems to not find everything. I would like to delid my 185 and I have an old A64 3000 to practice on now. Please provide links if you can even if they are on another site. I am looking for step by step instructions. Thanks in advance.


I strongly, *STRONGLY,* recommend you consider just lapping the IHS first. I wish I never tried delidding my CPU, and would have likely been just happy with the temperature difference between a lapped CPU and a non-lapped CPU. Instead, I ended up with a worthless chunk of silicon.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*

























Asus is great on RMA unless you try to scam them, Just tell them the truth and you will be fine. You have tried a different PS?










+rep for this, it seems it is a forced hard reset method. Like when leaveing the battery out for a day or 2.

+rep for you on the great delidding info N2

It is possible that the guy has been useing the ram not knowing it was mislabeled, I would contact OCZ (they may replace it).

Man I'm gone for 1 day and I come back to 4 pages and a hangover! Well this should teach me to never ever leave my chair!


LOL I guess you'll have to apply super glue to your seat so that you may never leave us again. Mwa ha ha ha .

Thanks for the rep. I have already been planning on calling OCZ first thing this following moday. I was able to get the ram working in the orange slots again. IDK if it was from cleaning the gold traces w/an erasser or from cleaning to orange slots with a toothbrush or is just moving them back and forth a couple of times did the trick. In any case they are working in the orangs slots and passing orthose now for almost an hour. my cpu is getting hot though. voltage is reading 1.31v from EU 4.60 and cpu temps are at 51c both cores. and cpu says 42c so I will change out the cpu cooler here in a few minutes after I pass 1 hours worth of orthos.

I will have to try that hard reset w/the reversed battery in the A8N32 mobo and see if it resolves my issues.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Have you tested both in CPU-Z? Unless I am mistaken, that is actually possible.


Edit Sorry for the double post guy's.

Thank you blitz, I tried to boot with ddr360 and won't post but when I drop it to ddr333 then it post's but when I use the formula in the excell oc calcualtor it gives me the same spds for both settings.

Puzzled I am.


----------



## pez

Still I bring off-topicness, but the temps I'm seeing with this Kuma are excellent. I turned all my fans down to low, and my CPU is now at 3.012 (it's stable w/ 2.912 so far...just taking it slower than I normally would







). With my fans at low and a 1.4 Vcore, I idle at about 29-30 and my load temp is 42. That's awesome IMO, my computer is almost deadly silent, and I've hit 3.0Ghz. Not to mention I'm getting better healthwise as well. This day ain't so bad after all







.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Still I bring off-topicness, but the temps I'm seeing with this Kuma are excellent. I turned all my fans down to low, and my CPU is now at 3.012 (it's stable w/ 2.912 so far...just taking it slower than I normally would







). With my fans at low and a 1.4 Vcore, I idle at about 29-30 and my load temp is 42. That's awesome IMO, my computer is almost deadly silent, and I've hit 3.0Ghz. Not to mention I'm getting better healthwise as well. This day ain't so bad after all







.


----------



## pez

*sigh*...so I can get a nice minimum of about 60 fps on most maps in CS:S now, but I get this nice little stutter about ever 3-4 seconds. Not only is it visually noticeable, it's audibly noticeable too...no other game gives me this trouble except...you guessed it another source game (HL2: DM). I can be at 230fps at a point and then I can watch the fps stutter down to about 120...you'd think this wouldn't cause any lag, but it's as if the framerate changes so rapidly that it just causes the lag. It might be because I didn't do a clean install...but everything is running fine and I did a complete reinstall of steam...so eff me right? I'll never be able to play CS:S normally again







. And even crysis warhead on the snow levels gets an average of 35 fps and might go to only 30 fps while under heavy battle...*sigh*


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
so I can get a nice minimum of about 60 fps on most maps in CS:S now, but I get this nice little stutter about ever 3-4 seconds.

Pez, do you have any of the eye candy settings enabled within the game? If so have you tried with them disabled?

Good luck


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


I can be at 230fps at a point and then I can watch the fps stutter down to about 120...you'd think this wouldn't cause any lag, but it's as if the framerate changes so rapidly that it just causes the lag.


Maybe it won't stutter if you set the max fps to around 120 then? That way it won't be as much of a drop when it happens and you might not notice anything. I dunno, it's just a though.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pez, do you have any of the eye candy settings enabled within the game? If so have you tried with them disabled?

Good luck


I don't have anything set differently than before I upgraded. Same settings and all.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


Maybe it won't stutter if you set the max fps to around 120 then? That way it won't be as much of a drop when it happens and you might not notice anything. I dunno, it's just a though.










I did some googling and tried 112 as a max and 101, but still recieved the stuttering. I've never had this problem before







. It's like the CS:S god doesn't want me to play CS:S enjoyably :/.


----------



## nategr8ns

Alright guys, slight hiccup on my prize from the "random" winner from the suicide contest.
For those of you who missed it, I won a DFI Ultra-D from Joe. (Thanks again!)
To troubleshoot my old Ultra-D which came DOA from ebay and which I haven't recieved any responses from DFI for, I swapped the BIOS chips, cleared the CMOSes, and neither one would boot. I assume this means that the older BIOS chip was bad, but something on the motherboard is also bad. I used the same parts for both boards, consisting of a 3800+, 512mb Corsair VS DDR400, and a PCI graphics card.
So the new board (with its BIOS chip back) went into BIOS fine, and I looked around a bit. When I shut down to add my other 512mb stick of RAM, I couldn't get it to boot again. It won't work in dual channel mode (I forgot to try one in yellow and one in an orange slot). I ran memtest and both passed multiple tests (9 on one and ~20ish on the other) with no errors. I'm not sure what's up with it. Do I have to do something fancy?


----------



## simfreak47

Are both the RAM sticks the same? Dual Channel RAM works best with matched RAM


----------



## nategr8ns

yes, I bought them in a kit.
It makes no sense that the board won't boot at all.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


yes, I bought them in a kit.
It makes no sense that the board won't boot at all.


If it all made sense this board wouldn't exist!


----------



## Blitz6804

Did you do a hard CMOS reset (unplug the power supply, pull the battery, jump the clear pins, push the power button a few times, wait a minute, reconnect everything back right) and then do the first-boot procedure we tried with your first DFI? I do not remember it exactly, but it is the one DIMM in the particular slot, and then you can use all. I would also recommend using the 1024 MB DIMMs in your signature rig for testing rather than the 512 MB ones before you do that though. It might be that the IMCs on the 512s do not like the motherboard or the other way around.


----------



## Hueristic

cleaning the slots won't hurt. N2 just had the same issue and a good cleaning fixed it up for him.


----------



## Pest

Seems everyone is having mobo issues at the moment. Good luck to us all!!


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pest*


Seems everyone is having mobo issues at the moment. Good luck to us all!!


yup, as we speak my nephew has just made a boot disk (took him forever to get a floppy drive working







) to flash a bios on another board that we are going to boot, remove bios while running replace with bad bios and flash to another boards bios.

Wish him luck!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


So the new board (with its BIOS chip back) went into BIOS fine, and I looked around a bit. When I shut down to add my other 512mb stick of RAM, I couldn't get it to boot again. It won't work in dual channel mode (I forgot to try one in yellow and one in an orange slot). I ran memtest and both passed multiple tests (9 on one and ~20ish on the other) with no errors. I'm not sure what's up with it. Do I have to do something fancy?


Nate, just to clarify how were you able to run memtest if the machine wouldn't boot? Are you getting a POST screen or a blank screen?

I'd give Blitz's suggestion a try. The DFI boards were actually quite picky with certain memory.

After powering on the board what do the 4 LED's look like (located on the bottom of the board)?

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


yup, as we speak my nephew has just made a boot disk (took him forever to get a floppy drive working







) to flash a bios on another board that we are going to boot, remove bios while running replace with bad bios and flash to another boards bios.

Wish him luck!










Sounds like a job for a real pro bro









Let us know if it works out for you and all the proceedures taken step by step.

Thanks,

N2G


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Nate, just to clarify how were you able to run memtest if the machine wouldn't boot? Are you getting a POST screen or a blank screen?

I'd give Blitz's suggestion a try. The DFI boards were actually quite picky with certain memory.

After powering on the board what do the 4 LED's look like (located on the bottom of the board)?

Good luck


It booted fine with a single stick, so I tested each separately. I was getting a blank screen.
I used the hard-reset method (no battery, et cetera) and it's working now with two DIMMs







.
I really badly want to migrate over to it now, but I don't want to reinstall windows







. Not sure what I'm going to do at this point.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


It booted fine with a single stick, so I tested each separately. I was getting a blank screen.
I used the hard-reset method (no battery, et cetera) and it's working now with two DIMMs







.
I really badly want to migrate over to it now, but I don't want to reinstall windows







. Not sure what I'm going to do at this point.


If you are using a WD HDD then you can use the WD drive copy Utility to copy all your files to another WD HDD drive and then test the new system w/the old windows installed on a seperate disk so that you don't have to worry about corrupting or loosing any files on your current sig rig. Less that option you could always Use another hard drive to boot to & install windows. Then use the old disk w/windows still on it in the new system as a file drive with all the original files still intact, that way you don't have to loose all your files. Then you can use both drives in the system, just make sure bios is set to boot to the new drive and use the old drive for files games etc. Now if you ever need to boot the other system agian then your old disk will still have the original OS/drivers etc loaded for that other system and you can easily put that drive back into that system and boot it back up as if it had never left.

Good luck bro,

N2G


----------



## Blitz6804

Hueristic's Nephew: Good luck with the hot flash.

Nate: Personally, since both boards are nVidia nForce4, I would think you should be able to migrate over without needing a reinstall. Just make sure you uninstall all MSI software before you do so.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Hueristic's Nephew: Good luck with the hot flash.

Nate: Personally, since both boards are nVidia nForce4, I would think you should be able to migrate over without needing a reinstall. Just make sure you uninstall all MSI software before you do so.

Thanks blitz, Hot Flash that's what they call that I was trying to remember the Technical term and for the life of me could not remember what they call that.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Sounds like a job for a real pro bro









Let us know if it works out for you and all the proceedures taken step by step.

Thanks,

N2G


LOL, then someone else better do it!







Thanks for the reminder maybe we'll get his DOA board going. Teach him to wait till now from june to test it out! damn kids and thier procrastination! I think the cpu is DOA too!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Hueristic's Nephew: Good luck with the hot flash.


He thanks you for the moral support. He's gonna need it!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thanks blitz, Hot Flash that's what they call that I was trying to remember the Technical term and for the life of me could not remember what they call that.


Me too haven't thought of it in so many years I had forgotten until you mentioned to me.

So the first attempt was a failure, But I think that is because We tried flashing an AMI on an award board. We are trying to get (find) a good AMI board in my piles to try it on now. Kept getting memory address errors. I told him he has to write it up and fill you guys in when he's done and he went "Ohh sheet I didn't take notes!" LMAO, I told him he better remember cause I won't be around to hold his hand forever!


----------



## Blitz6804

You have been doing computers for nearly thirty years if I recall correctly. Why not another 30-60 years doing all the IT work for your Nephew?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


You have been doing computers for nearly thirty years if I recall correctly. Why not another 30-60 years doing all the IT work for your Nephew?













































:so zo:


----------



## Bogeyone001

Hey all.. hows it going, just stopping by to see whats new in the group and cuz i haven't been on in forever which is killing me.. so close to finish rebuilding my motorcycle though.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
You have been doing computers for nearly thirty years if I recall correctly. Why not another 30-60 years doing all the IT work for your Nephew?

Well blitz at some point in every birds life they have to learn how to fly so they can leave the nest and make a life of their own. Thus they may loose any capablility of physical contact and may eventually find a life far far far away from home preventing any further feedings from their parents/guardians/mentors.


----------



## Pest

Just sent my RMA request to Asus we'll see what they have to say. It looks as though they have a facility in Indiana which is very close, so I hope the RMA doesn't take long.

Hueristic, at least with your nephew you can show him hands on what to do. I have to give my dad tech support over the phone from about 800 miles away. It took several hours with him before I realized that he didn't have a sata cable at all when I was helping him through a hd install. My dad is by no means tech savy but he's also not a noob, or so I thought. Apparently the local computer guy decided to hold on to it.

So best of luck to you.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pest* 
Just sent my RMA request to Asus we'll see what they have to say. It looks as though they have a facility in Indiana which is very close, so I hope the RMA doesn't take long.

LOL. I'll go pick it up for ya buddy


----------



## Blitz6804

It took me about 6 hours to tell my mother how to use a Linux LiveCD to format a backup hard drive, copy data from a corrupt Windows install to the backup, and then reformat and reinstall Windows on the disk with the corrupt install. She is very noobish apparently.

Pest: In my experience, Asus is rather fast. RMA turnaround round trip was 2-4 weeks for my several RMAs. For reference, my nearest UPS hub was Newark, NJ, which was likely further away than your hub.


----------



## AllenG

OT a little bit, but heres some fun i had with a 754 board and sempron 2800+ (stock @ 1.6ghz)... figured you guys might appreciate it a little. Made me laugh pretty hard and go "DAMN!" at the same time. LOL

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=527358


----------



## Blitz6804

I am just processing Your OEM Freight train! w00 w00! right now. Is it possible to get a Validation link of it, or do you only have the screenshot right now? Is it also possible to get a screenshot of the Mainboard tab to aid me in identifying your identical motherboard model? An Asus A8N-LA maybe?

EDIT:

To borrow from HP/Compaq:

Do these look familiar:


----------



## nategr8ns

i've been meaning to reinstall windows anyway, but I keep feeling like theres something I'm forgetting to back up that I'll need as soon as I reformat.


----------



## AllenG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I am just processing Your OEM Freight train! w00 w00! right now. Is it possible to get a Validation link of it, or do you only have the screenshot right now? Is it also possible to get a screenshot of the Mainboard tab to aid me in identifying your identical motherboard model? An Asus A8N-LA maybe?


No validation link right now, only the SS. In the process of reinstalling on a SATA drive, will cpuz it tonight or tmrw. Yup, thats the board it has. The oc was not done through the bios, its an oem compaq bios... tried to find the board that it really is straight from asus to try and get the real bios for it, found a few matched (dont remember what they were)... dropped that project due to the fact that i figured Compaq locked it so that it couldnt be upgraded to anything else. Now that i think of it now, it is an award bios and i do know how to force bios upgrades on award systems. Now the only question left is what size is the bios rom? They might have used a smaller bios rom seeing as they didnt have as much data in it. Dunno though, im really sketchy about potentially bricking this board, i love this system too much.

OC was done using nvidia's NTune, in order to oc at all, you HAVE to have a external video card in.


----------



## Blitz6804

Well AllenG, it is official. You are now located on the off-site roster. The astute will notice I fixed a typo on FatalityxZ's board. Even the non-astute will notice that I have yet to finish the site redesign... maybe someone would be interested in helping me do so? Send me a PM if you are interested.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pest*


Hueristic, at least with your nephew you can show him hands on what to do. I have to give my dad tech support over the phone from about 800 miles away. It took several hours with him before I realized that he didn't have a sata cable

































I feel your pain man! I once spent an 1/2 hour on the phone with a guy in the philipines and finally figured out the idiot was putting the cd rom i sent him in upside down!!!!!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


It took me about 6 hours to tell my mother how to use a Linux LiveCD to format a backup hard drive, copy data from a corrupt Windows install to the backup, and then reformat and reinstall Windows on the disk with the corrupt install.


Actually thats pretty good that you were able to get it done at all! Nice job man!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AllenG*


OT a little bit, but heres some fun i had with a 754 board and sempron 2800+ (stock @ 1.6ghz)... figured you guys might appreciate it a little. Made me laugh pretty hard and go "DAMN!" at the same time. LOL


LMAO I got that same system folding! Hah Now I may have to...nah...must stop thinking like this. Too many other things to do!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Well AllenG, it is official. You are now located on the off-site roster.


Looking good dude, the astute would also notice my opty is not correct









IIRC the last cpu-z I posted was @280htt. Can't go higher till I get better cooling.


----------



## N2Gaming

I just got home from my Fry's Electronics expedition to retrieve a New Phenom II x4 940 BE and some Corsair xms2 pc8500 c5 ram and a little 12v A23 battery for my DMM and had a ebay winning bid waiting for me. Once again I told my self, OK now how much did this cost me. I bid on this item w/full knowledge of it's listed condition. However the value is it it's parts that can be transfered over to an expert mobo. So with out further a do let me introduce my newest ebay purchase.









http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=320348828696

Go ahead and drool. I did when I first saw it listed.







I still can't believe all that comes w/it for the price. man I still think I got a steal. If I can't get it working after every attempt then I will use the parts on one of my expert mobo's to make a venice mobo with the parts from this one.









N2G


----------



## thlnk3r

N2Gaming, awesome purchase. I'm a bit skeptic on the price though....$26? That is certainly a steal for sure









Keep us updated when it arrives

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, awesome purchase. I'm a bit skeptic on the price though....$26? That is certainly a steal for sure









Keep us updated when it arrives

Good luck


Thanks, well after shipping it's not as good of a deal but never the less. The mobo looks legit as it has all 100% aluminum caps seen in the pic's. My guess is the chipset fan went bad and burned up the northbridge. In any case I will be sure to let you all know how it goes.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I just got home from my Fry's Electronics expedition to retrieve a New Phenom II x4 940 BE and some Corsair xms2 pc8500 c5 ram and a little 12v A23 battery for my DMM and had a ebay winning bid waiting for me. Once again I told my self, OK now how much did this cost me. I bid on this item w/full knowledge of it's listed condition. However the value is it it's parts that can be transfered over to an expert mobo. So with out further a do let me introduce my newest ebay purchase.









http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=320348828696

Go ahead and drool. I did when I first saw it listed.








I still can't believe all that comes w/it for the price. man I still think I got a steal. If I can't get it working after every attempt then I will use the parts on one of my expert mobo's to make a venice mobo with the parts from this one.









N2G




















































:kungf u:








http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=170311630819


----------



## Pest

Nice deal N2Gaming! From the comments the seller didn't appear to know what was wrong, which means it's probably fixable.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pest*


Nice deal N2Gaming! From the comments the seller didn't appear to know what was wrong, which means it's probably fixable.










Well I am Tony BTW and I had a couple of other lengthy chat's that he did not post. He sells mobo's etc and claimed to have it checked out by a computer technician that deemed it to have a cold boot problem. In any case I will keep my virtual fingers crossed and hope for the best...

Thank you,

N2G


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Well I am Tony BTW and I had a couple of other lengthy chat's that he did not post. He sells mobo's etc and claimed to have it checked out by a computer technician that deemed it to have a cold boot problem. In any case I will keep my virtual fingers crossed and hope for the best...


N2, cold boot problems could mean a corrupt BIOS. If so that is a easy fix. If a hot flash doesn't resolve the problem then I'm sure DFI will send you a new chip. I bet Joe is a bit jealous of your purchase









Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2, cold boot problems could mean a corrupt BIOS. If so that is a easy fix. If a hot flash doesn't resolve the problem then I'm sure DFI will send you a new chip. I bet Joe is a bit jealous of your purchase









Good luck

Thank you think3r, I would hope more then any thing that Joe is happy for me more then he would be jealous.


----------



## AllenG

All this talk about hot flashing, i need to come up with another bios chip for my Compaq oem Asus board so i can try and load it with a bios for the A8N-VM CSM. Anyone got some extra 4m bios chips for asus boards they're willing to let go? LOL


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AllenG* 
All this talk about hot flashing, i need to come up with another bios chip for my Compaq oem Asus board so i can try and load it with a bios for the A8N-VM CSM. Anyone got some extra 4m bios chips for asus boards they're willing to let go? LOL

As a matter of fact I have one that I paid $15.00 for from ASUS. that was just for the shipping the Bios chip itself was free. I could sell it to you for the same.


----------



## AllenG

Sweet! I'll probably take ya up on that in the near future, gonna see if i can find a few bios roms in the stack of dead boards at work first... if i do im gonna collect as many as i can. LOL

Hopefully i have good luck hot flashing, otherwise im gonna be looking for one of those old intel nics.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AllenG* 
Sweet! I'll probably take ya up on that in the near future, gonna see if i can find a few bios roms in the stack of dead boards at work first... if i do im gonna collect as many as i can. LOL

Hopefully i have good luck hot flashing, otherwise im gonna be looking for one of those old intel nics.

I saw that. I have a couple of older 3com isa cards if I can dig them out but I don't know if they are anything like what was posted in the other thread in regards to being intel w/removeable flash proms.

a link to it hear would be good for the guys here, awe they got google. Unless any one cares to know more about this then Good luck AllenG.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Looking good dude, the astute would also notice my opty is not correct









IIRC the last cpu-z I posted was @280htt. Can't go higher till I get better cooling.










I believe it was either a screen cap and not a validation link, or, I missed it. I will look for it when I am not in class.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I just got home from my Fry's Electronics expedition to retrieve a New Phenom II x4 940 BE


I just ordered mine from Newegg. Let us see if they are as good as the 939s of old, because I gotta say, the Brisbanes are epic failures.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I just ordered mine from Newegg. Let us see if they are as good as the 939s of old, because I gotta say, *the Brisbanes are epic failures*.


Interesting comment, Blitz. How so?


----------



## Blitz6804

In my experience, the Brisbane is substantially similar to a Toledo. The processor apparently does more per clock, but the loss of cache equals that out. At 2.8 GHz (stock) the system feels slower than my Toledo at 2.8 GHz. The only saving grace is that they can stabilize at 3.2 GHz and can run more RAM. 2 GB of DDR-500 has a bandwidth around 8000 MBps. 4 GB of DDR-500 has a bandwidth around 6000 MBps. 2 GB or 4 GB of DDR2-800 has a bandwidth around 7800 MBps with a Brisbane. (So far, Pez has shown me that DDR2-1066 with a Kuma is aruond 7300 MBps.) If you fiddle with the HTT, you can get the RAM speed up (I am running 9300 MBps) but I really do not think it is worth it. The Brisbane just feels slower than the Toledo no matter how I stack it unless I have a 400 MHz lead on it. Benchmarks such as SuperPi say otherwise, but 3DMark06 seems to agree with my observations. For all owners of 939: do not bother upgrading at this time. Wait until Deneb becomes a viable option.


----------



## Blitz6804

The search feature turns up:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Well I'm not impressed, I could only get up to 240fsb with it and with a modded 462 thermalite Venus 12 I got up to 280 and stable so far. anyfarther and the temps are out of control.


I did a search with you and "


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


The search feature turns up:
I did a search with you and "" and it came up empty. Did I miss it?

[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
[URL=http://www.overclock.net/amd-general/293448-socket-939-appreciation-club-knowledgebase-official-1316.html#post5680270]http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...ml#post5680270[/URL]
[IMG alt=""]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/band.gif


----------



## Blitz6804

Got it. I will fix it when I get home.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Got it. I will fix it when I get home.









no rush man I really hadn't even noticed. Lol but I need to use that page more, It really shows what I should be able to get out of this chip. As soon as I mod the new Hs I just got with some decent heat pipes.










Modded one on a 775 atx and it works great so my opty is the next guinea pig!


----------



## Tator Tot

Those Dell towers are actually very nice Heatsinks, considering you can get them for around 5-10$ shipped on Fleabay.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Those Dell towers are actually very nice Heatsinks, considering you can get them for around 5-10$ shipped on Fleabay.

Yeah i got 2 from a member here for $7 apiece. I'm pretty happy with them.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I just ordered mine from Newegg. Let us see if they are as good as the 939s of old


Blitz, the Deneb's like cold temperatures for high overclocks so just FYI. A vcore of 1.5volts and up is very common for these. You'll be very surprised on how much cooler they run too. They get about the same load temps as our S939's do but with 1.5vcore. I'm very impressed by the PhII









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


the Brisbanes are epic failures.


Well this is purely user opinion. Memory bandwidth and 3DMark06 numbers mean nothing to me. If it feels slow then I guess it feels slow, I can't disagree with you there. I don't know about the Brisbane being a "epic failure" though. Quite a few users still like there Brisbanes.

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, the Deneb's like cold temperatures for high overclocks so just FYI. A vcore of 1.5volts and up is very common for these. You'll be very surprised on how much cooler they run too. They get about the same load temps as our S939's do but with 1.5vcore. I'm very impressed by the PhII









Well this is purely user opinion. Memory bandwidth and 3DMark06 numbers mean nothing to me. If it feels slow then I guess it feels slow, I can't disagree with you there. *I don't know about the Brisbane being a "epic failure" though. Quite a few users still like there Brisbanes*.

Good luck


That comment was what stood out to me, as well.

I think that, if compared to its market contemporaries (C2Ds), then yes, the Brisbanes were a failure. But what do you expect? It's an older architecture, albeit optimized from the S939 iteration. As far as I'm concerned, AM2 is just S939 running with different RAM and a higher potential peak frequency.

Incidentally, this is also why I have eschewed the "upgrade" from S939 to AM2. More like a sideways move to me, you know? To be fair, though, S939s just can't go as fast in raw clock speed as AM2 chips can. That's the only advantage AM2 has (other than super-cheap DDR2).


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Well this is purely user opinion. Memory bandwidth and 3DMark06 numbers mean nothing to me. If it feels slow then I guess it feels slow, I can't disagree with you there. I don't know about the Brisbane being a "epic failure" though. Quite a few users still like there Brisbanes.

Good luck



I like my Brisbane, but I have to agree that it is an "Epic Failure" while I waited a long while to upgrade to Dual Core (My netburst @ 4.0 did so well for so long because of non multi threaded apps/games) 
But the Brisbanes just are not as good as the Core 2 line up. 
Now Core 2 vs Phenom or Phenom II on the other hand is a good match up.

But the Brisbanes didn't even feel like a stepping stone.
It would be like if Intel refreshed Pentium D CPUs into 65nm and kept them going instead of moving to Core 2.

That being said, for the price/performance. Brisbane, Kuma, Agena, or any other AMD CPU right now is a great buy for their performance. But original price/performance ratio was not their.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


That being said, for the price/performance. Brisbane, Kuma, Agena, or any other AMD CPU right now is a great buy for their performance. But original price/performance ratio was not their.


----------



## Blitz6804

When you buy a new CPU/Socket, you expect it to be better. What I am saying, in my experience, the Brisbane is a lateral move from a Toledo. Sure it can clock faster. So what? I do not notice any FPS difference from my Toledo to the Brisbane. The only time I notice the extra speed is when doing SuperPi. Seriously. That is it. Nothing else. If it were up to me, I would not have transgraded. I however could not justify paying $120 for a decent 939 CPU when I could pay $300 and get a platform that could one day go quad core. My hope is that the Phenom II does not dissapoint.

Thlnk3r: Based solely on TDP, I am expecting the Deneb to be running hotter than my current Brisbane. It is 125 W compared to my 65 W. However, as far as I know, the Brisbane might be running warmer than I estimate; newer Brisbanes tend to have broken Digital Thermal Sensors. Thus, you only have a ballpark temperature, not a decent estimation of your temperature. In the BIOS, I read about 36Âº C. In Windows, at idle, I read around 28Âº C. My individual core temperatures read -5Âº C and 4Âº C. Needless to say, they are worthless. I estimate my load temp to be around 65Âº C based on research and a totality of my evidence. I could be wrong. But if I am not, I have more overclocking headroom as I am good to 72Âº C @ 1.325 V. The Phenom II is good to 62Âº C @ 1.500 V if I read the whitepages right.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

In all fairness, Blitz (and I've told thlnk3r this, too, to be perfectly honest), were I in your position I would have done the same exact thing. The folly, though, is expecting too much from AM2 dual-cores. But that's just me talking.

Of course, I would not have been ham-fisted to kill a CPU the way you did, so...

On the other hand, I learned that you never butter-finger a heavy heatsink over a naked CPU.


----------



## Blitz6804

I have been fortunate in never crushing a CPU, even from my Socket A days. However, as you said, I have no coordination, which of course, is why my Toledo had to die. If I could do it over, I would have lapped it and shimmed the heatsink before attempting something rash like delidding again.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I have been fortunate in never crushing a CPU, even from my Socket A days. However, as you said, I have no coordination, which of course, is why my Toledo had to die. If I could do it over, I would have lapped it and shimmed the heatsink before attempting something rash like delidding again.

Not for nuthing but that is why I put that in my sig to make sure kids that really need their stuff don't get too excited here and lose what they cannot replace.







I *am* sorry you lost a good cpu though.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz, the Deneb's like cold temperatures for high overclocks so just FYI. A vcore of 1.5volts and up is very common for these. You'll be very surprised on how much cooler they run too. They get about the same load temps as our S939's do but with 1.5vcore. I'm very impressed by the PhII









Well this is purely user opinion. Memory bandwidth and 3DMark06 numbers mean nothing to me. If it feels slow then I guess it feels slow, I can't disagree with you there. I don't know about the Brisbane being a "epic failure" though. Quite a few users still like there Brisbanes.

Good luck

I still love mine. I was able to get in the ball paart of 9500+ or so memory bandwitdth with a decent cpu/ram/HT overclock and still be stable w/4x 1gig ram.







I just hate my mobo right now becuase I killed the bios and don't have removable bios chip. Darn Asus.:swearing:


----------



## BlackOmega

Holy smokes, I dont come on here for a day and a half and theres literally, 10 pages to read through







.

Well I have sold my Opty 165 and my Asus mobo. Kind of sad really, it was my first build







has sentimental value. But it's my stepping stone to AM3







For about $330 Ill have a new triple core 4gb of RAM and a decent mobo. Still not sure which one to get though. Should I pony up more cash and get a true 16x crossfire board. Or save ~$50 and "only" get 8x crossfire? Hmm decisions, decisions.









As for Brisbanes, I have read a lot of posts with people having temp sensor issues. Personally, I'd RMA it. To me that constitutes a defective product. I'd RMA it so many times that they'd either send me a new chip or send me a Brisbane that worked.
And I have to agree that AM2 is not a step up from 939, my 939 is still plenty fast. Fast enough to beat out some newer chips/boards. If PCIe 2.0 slots were available for 939 I'd probably never even upgrade. Well not for like 5 years anyway.

As for delidding, I feel confident enough to do it again. I really like N2's idea using the vise grips as a depth control measure. when I did mine, I just took my time, and made extra sure that I kept my hand as steady as possible. Even then its still pretty gut wrenching when you finally break through.
I might try my hand at lapping with the 710 when I get it and verify there's nothing wrong with it.


----------



## Blitz6804

All BIOS EEPROMs are removable if you have a good soldering iron and a steady hand...

Yeah Hueristic, hindsight is 20/20. After a few hours of research, no sleep in quite a few, you think you can do anything! Now I know...

Addressing BlackOmega's crosspost: It seems that it effects the Black Editions more than the regular ones. I am almost inclined to believe it was intentional to prevent people from Overclocking them. The 5400+ BE is notorious for it; the 5000+ BE seems unaffected. As to why I did not RMA: While my desktop is down, my only option is my Intel laptop. No thanks.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
All BIOS EEPROMs are removable if you have a good soldering iron and a steady hand...

well I'm not a robot so trying to remove and then reaply a bios chip w/32 leads is not worth it too me. I am hoping that some one has a piggy back solution that will allow me to put a bios chip into a bios socket that can then be placed over the dead bios on the mobo and then boot and post from the piggy back bios so that I can reflash the bios on the mobo.

Has any one heard of a solution like this. The only thing i can see being a problem is the voltage drop by using two bios's one on top of the other.

Thank you,

N2G


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I might try my hand at lapping with the 710 when I get it and verify there's nothing wrong with it.

HEY I saw this comment?

Quote:

Cons: The only thing I didnt like about this chip, but I didnt hold it, is that the 4th core was too unstable to unlock.
I had no expectation for this to work so thats why I didnt take off any eggs..
The 4th core is unlockable??? Wow now that makes all the difference in the world!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
well I'm not a robot so trying to remove and then reaply a bios chip w/32 leads is not worth it too me. I am hoping that some one has a piggy back solution that will allow me to put a bios chip into a bios socket that can then be placed over the dead bios on the mobo and then boot and post from the piggy back bios so that I can reflash the bios on the mobo.

Has any one heard of a solution like this. The only thing i can see being a problem is the voltage drop by using two bios's one on top of the other.

Thank you,

N2G

SOrry N2 that cannot work. Because if the bios even workes slightly and sends one conflicting bit the entire cpu instruction set will be corrupted and that is a can of worms you do not want to open!









Funny I've never seen a good Asus with a soldered bios chip. This is your high end board?

Quote:

Yeah Hueristic, hindsight is 20/20. After a few hours of research, no sleep in quite a few, you think you can do anything! Now I know...
Actually I wasn't meaning you shouldn't do it. I know you were aware of the dangers. I have it there more for a warning to kids that this is their only system and there parents broke the bank to get it for them and if they lose it they don't get their homework done.









But like you said 20/20. We all regret some of our attempts but in the end we learn from them.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes Hueristic. Early binned X3 710/720 can be turned into quad cores with AMD 790/SB 750 chipsets by turning on ACC. These are the only ones that can do it (at present), although later BIOS versions will likely remove this and future chips will be hardware disabled rather than software disabled.

EDIT: And yeah, we learn not to delid ever again.

EDIT2: Sorry; typo fixed to read SB 750.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Yes Hueristic. Early binned X3 710/720 can be turned into quad cores with AMD 790/SB 700 chipsets by turning on ACC. These are the only ones that can do it (at present), although later BIOS versions will likely remove this and future chips will be hardware disabled rather than software disabled.

Wow! that's sweet, quads for $120! anyway to find the early bins? or is a hit or miss thing?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Thlnk3r: Based solely on TDP, I am expecting the Deneb to be running hotter than my current Brisbane. It is 125 W compared to my 65 W.

Blitz, TDP is measured differently with the Phenom processors. Apparently that is the amount of power draw from the processor. I too was in disagreement until I started reading more about it.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
newer Brisbanes tend to have broken Digital Thermal Sensors.

This has never been officially proven. It's been rumored that the problem may not actually reside on the processor. Supposedly the communication between the chipset and processor seems to be at fault. Of course we'll never know the truth behind it all









Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
The Phenom II is good to 62Âº C @ 1.500 V if I read the whitepages right.

That is pretty high for a PhII. From what I read 60C is pushing it and may produce stability issues. You can certainly exceed 1.5volts with these though. Many are running 1.525 for a 3.8 - 4Ghz overclock.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
well I'm not a robot so trying to remove and then reaply a bios chip w/32 leads is not worth it too me. I am hoping that some one has a piggy back solution that will allow me to put a bios chip into a bios socket that can then be placed over the dead bios on the mobo and then boot and post from the piggy back bios so that I can reflash the bios on the mobo.

Has any one heard of a solution like this. The only thing i can see being a problem is the voltage drop by using two bios's one on top of the other.

N2Gaming, this is the same as "hot flashing". This guide is a bit old but it may help: http://www.techarp.com/showarticle.aspx?artno=62&pgno=0.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


This has never been officially proven. It's been rumored that the problem may not actually reside on the processor. Supposedly the communication between the chipset and processor seems to be at fault. Of course we'll never know the truth behind it all


It seems it is actually a change in the formula to take the raw data to give you a number. Some motherboards have fixed it with a BIOS flash (supposedly), but it is not actually proven or confirmed by AMD. DFI has yet to fix it in my four different BIOS versions. Like all my other CPUs, my Phenom II will be clocked as high as is S&M stable at no more than 100 mV over VID.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Yes Hueristic. Early binned X3 710/720 can be turned into quad cores with AMD 790/SB 700 chipsets by turning on ACC. These are the only ones that can do it (at present), although later BIOS versions will likely remove this and future chips will be hardware disabled rather than software disabled.


Blitz, the unlocked core is dependent on the chipset I believe and SB700 does not support ACC, only SB750.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Some motherboards have fixed it with a BIOS flash (supposedly), but it is not actually proven or confirmed by AMD.


Are you just rephrasing what I just said


----------



## Blitz6804

Fixed the typo Thlnk3r. At present, only the SB 750 has ACC. The SB 710 will have it as well, but that is presently not out. The SB 710 is an SB 750 without RAID 5, or a SB 700 with ACC. (The SB 750 is the SB 700 with RAID 5 and ACC.)

And yes, basically rephrasing. I am seeing people say they had the problem until they got a new BIOS. Mine is broken regardless what BIOS version.


----------



## N2Gaming

Asus tech support just helped me get the system to post. but after making bios settings and F10 the system seems to keep hanging. Asus tech seems to think it is a ram voltage issue.


----------



## AllenG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Asus tech support just helped me get the system to post. but after making bios settings and F10 the system seems to keep hanging. Asus tech seems to think it is a ram voltage issue.


try using the ocz 800 if its stock voltage is 1.8 (the default) then go into the bios, set the voltage to what your 1066 ram calls for, pop it back in and see if it works.

Ram voltage makes sense seeing as the phII probably runs it native at 1066, but the bios probably doesnt upvolt like it should, so its probably trying to run it at 1.8v.

out of curiosity, what did they have you do that got it to post finally?


----------



## N2Gaming

step #1 remove video card and ram and try to post. It gave 1 long followed by 2 short beeps.

Step #2 add 1 stick of ram. power on if it gives 1 long & 3 short beeps then it has detected the ram.

Step #3 add video card. if it gives one beep you are posting.

Then go into bios and set the ram to a static voltage. I have been having a problem at this point as the system seems to never want to post again after this phase. I will try the x2 5400+ again and maybe reflash back to the original 2101 bios. That's if I can get it off the HDD. Well I could just download it and unzip it and put it on the usb thumb drive.


----------



## Blitz6804

Guys... we are drifting a bit far from Skt 939; why not try asking for some help in the Socket AM2/AM2+ club?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Guys... we are drifting a bit far from Skt 939; why not try asking for some help in the Socket AM2/AM2+ club?


Cause you guys are more helpful.








And the AM2/AM2+/AM3 club just doesn't seem to get that much attention for help.

You are better off making a new thread.

Not to go against the point of this thread. But that really is the point. 
SO atleast be glad you guys rock out loud


----------



## Pest

939 Apprasial needed. It's not me.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


You are better off making a new thread.


Tator Tot, that would be a good idea considering this is a different socket.

N2Gaming, making a new thread would probably attract other AM2 users that may possibly be able to assist or even solve your problem.

Good luck


----------



## FatalityxZ

hey guys, im supposed to get a Xigmatek S1283 CPU Cooler today.
how much more can i overclock my processor? i have a Foxconn 6150BK8MC Series mobo








rofl


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FatalityxZ* 
hey guys, im supposed to get a Xigmatek S1283 CPU Cooler today.
how much more can i overclock my processor? i have a Foxconn 6150BK8MC Series mobo








rofl

Impossible to say, FatalityxZ.

Though I'd say the limiting factor is probably the motherboard rather than the cooling strategy.

Nevertheless, good luck with the Xigmatek.







I had one of those, but I couldn't get decent results with it. pio, though, did.


----------



## FatalityxZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Impossible to say, FatalityxZ.

Though I'd say the limiting factor is probably the motherboard rather than the cooling strategy.

Nevertheless, good luck with the Xigmatek.







I had one of those, but I couldn't get decent results with it. pio, though, did.









Oh I see.
Does the motherboard impose restrictions on how much the CPU can overclock?
I've been hearing good things about it, so i'm buying it from someone for $35 Brand new in box.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FatalityxZ* 
Oh I see.
Does the motherboard impose restrictions on how much the CPU can overclock?

FatalityxZ, sometimes yes. If that particular motherboard doesn't have the appropriate options for fine tuning an overclock then yes it may be difficult. There are many other things that can limit a overclock. Really the only to find out is to start testing. In regards to your Xigmatek that should give you some more headroom to work with in terms of cooling.

Hope that helps


----------



## FatalityxZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
FatalityxZ, sometimes yes. If that particular motherboard doesn't have the appropriate options for fine tuning an overclock then yes it may be difficult. There are many other things that can limit a overclock. Really the only to find out is to start testing. In regards to your Xigmatek that should give you some more headroom to work with in terms of cooling.

Hope that helps









Yes it does, thank you very much


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FatalityxZ* 
Oh I see.
Does the motherboard impose restrictions on how much the CPU can overclock?
I've been hearing good things about it, so i'm buying it from someone for $35 Brand new in box.









Well, let's just say that Foxconn isn't really one of the renowned overclocking motherboards available for S939.









Motherboards designed to encourage overclocks (DFI's LANParty UT series, the ASUS A8N32-SLI Deluxe, and a few others) have a plethora of overclocking-friendly BIOSes and chipsets. The Foxconnn 6150BK8MC's chipset may be an nVidia-based chipset, but it's not exactly in the enthusiast class. Moreover, the components on the board (cooling sinks and VRMs/MOSFETs) aren't really conducive to high overclocks, either.

_Caveat emptor_.


----------



## FatalityxZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Well, let's just say that Foxconn isn't really one of the renowned overclocking motherboards available for S939.









Motherboards designed to encourage overclocks (DFI's LANParty UT series, the ASUS A8N32-SLI Deluxe, and a few others) have a plethora of overclocking-friendly BIOSes and chipsets. The Foxconnn 6150BK8MC's chipset may be an nVidia-based chipset, but it's not exactly in the enthusiast class. Moreover, the components on the board (cooling sinks and VRMs/MOSFETs) aren't really conducive to high overclocks, either.

_Caveat emptor_.

















I bought my computer pre-built







. canadacomputers.com/index.php?do=ShowProduct&cmd=pd&pid=008564&cid=1
Lets just say it wasn't the best choice i made.
Anyways thanks for all the help guys.

EDIT: Can any of you guide me on installing the Xiggy?
I haven't changed heatsinks before.
Heres my rig:

Sorry for the poor cable management.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FatalityxZ*


EDIT: Can any of you guide me on installing the Xiggy?
I haven't changed heatsinks before.
Heres my rig:

Sorry for the poor cable management.


FatalityxZ, the Xigmatek S1283 uses the same installation process as your stock cooler (pressure clip). Simply remove the older cooler, clean off the old thermal compound with 90% isopropyl alcohol (I use a paper towel), apply the new compound to the Xigmatek and mount it. There are few different ways you can apply the TIM (thermal interface material) on the cooler. Here is one website that describes the different methods: http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.ph...1&limitstart=5. I do not have one of these coolers so my knowledge isn't all that great. Perhaps a user that owns one of these can chime in with more detail.

Hope that helps


----------



## FnkDctr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


(I use a paper towel)


why?

paper towel leaves behind lint or particles. I suggest something cotton.


----------



## FatalityxZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FnkDctr*


why?

paper towel leaves behind lint or particles. I suggest something cotton.


How bout a Q-Tip?


----------



## Blitz6804

I personally use Kimwipes. I showed the link to Pioneer (who has an HDT) and he seemed to like either of the latter two methods.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FnkDctr*


why?

paper towel leaves behind lint or particles. I suggest something cotton.


FnkDctr, why a paper towel? It's cheap and it's there









Doesn't cotton such as a T-Shirt leave the same amount of microscopic particles? Shoot I've been using paper towels for a while now. Haven't seen a downside to using them yet.


----------



## FatalityxZ

I'm thinking toilet paper. Is that bad? Or Bounty?


----------



## FnkDctr

ill be honest, I used to use paper towel too. Then I noticed some flaking and whatever. I like the qtip idea probably better. But the wipes is the sure way to go.

I just know from cleaning my glasses in the past, but its 2009 and I wear contacts, so im just old school.


----------



## FatalityxZ

Brown paper towel as in the ones schools use, or bounty type?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FatalityxZ*


I'm thinking toilet paper. Is that bad? Or Bounty?


FatalityxZ, tiolet paper leaves a little bit more lint behind. Try out a Q-Tip as FnkDctr suggested and see how that works for you. If you want something that doesn't leave lint/particles behind then look for something that is lint free.

Good luck


----------



## AllenG

Fatality, running 1.5 gb, do you have two sticks of ram or 4 to get 1.5gb? If you have 2 sticks (one 1gb and one 512 mb) your probably killing your dual channel abilities... getting the ram sticks matched and the dual channel working again will give you a noticable gain, and probably let you oc further.


----------



## Blitz6804

You would want the brown towel likely. Personally, given the options, I likely would use Bounty to get the TIM off. Then, mount the CPU vertically and just flush isopropanol over it just to be sure the lint is gone. IPA is volatile and will evaporate off easily.


----------



## FatalityxZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AllenG*


Fatality, running 1.5 gb, do you have two sticks of ram or 4 to get 1.5gb? If you have 2 sticks (one 1gb and one 512 mb) your probably killing your dual channel abilities... getting the ram sticks matched and the dual channel working again will give you a noticable gain, and probably let you oc further.


I have 3 512 sticks.


----------



## AllenG

70% or 90% iso rubbing alcohol and a nice cotton rag (old sock works great) dump the alcohol on the rag and rub away, using new areas of the rag as they get full of the paste.


----------



## AllenG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FatalityxZ*


I have 3 512 sticks.


take one out or add one more. You are definately killing your dual channel capabilities, and probably limiting your OC. Preferably leave two matched sticks in.

1gb of ram is plenty, and the benefits outweigh the cons of having 1.5gb in this case

Put the two matched ram sticks in the first two slots closest to the cpu, you will be in Dual Channel mode. -- Just looked up in the manual from Foxconn.


----------



## FatalityxZ

Ok i installed the Xiggy.
Old temps used to be 57 load
now its 49 load.
Is that good enough, or do i have to wait for the thermal paste to cure?


----------



## simfreak47

While my PSU is on RMA, I had to return my CPU to stock for this crap 250 watt PSU.

Anyway, check this out, and what do you notice about a *certain* piece of hardware?

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=528654


----------



## AllenG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FatalityxZ*


Ok i installed the Xiggy.
Old temps used to be 57 load
now its 49 load.
Is that good enough, or do i have to wait for the thermal paste to cure?


not bad. temps will go down as the paste settles in. Fix the ram setup too?


----------



## Blitz6804

FatalityxZ: If you used Arctic Silver 5, cure time can be as long as 200 hours. I have noticed drops as much as 10Âº C between first boot and a boot a month later. You require cycling to make it cure though, 200 hours straight will not work. Your results will vary however, I have seen changes as small as 2Âº C.

simfreak47: Your DDR 400 running at DDR 504? Good job!


----------



## AllenG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *simfreak47*


While my PSU is on RMA, I had to return my CPU to stock for this crap 250 watt PSU.

Anyway, check this out, and what do you notice about a *certain* piece of hardware?

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=528654


pc3200 @ ddr500? on stock clock...


----------



## FatalityxZ

2 things:
Ok this is really weird... after changing it to 240x11; there was an error message from windows when it started up and it said i was restarted in 1 minute. Then; on 236x11 Firefox kept crashing and my computer eventually BSODed. Now its back to 225x11 and it froze a few times before now. Whats should i do ?!
AllenG: I have 2 sticks of Kingston Value Ram; but its not dual channel.


----------



## AllenG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FatalityxZ*


2 things:
Ok this is really weird... after changing it to 240x11; there was an error message from windows when it started up and it said i was restarted in 1 minute. Then; on 236x11 Firefox kept crashing and my computer eventually BSODed. Now its back to 225x11 and it froze a few times before now. Whats should i do ?!
AllenG: I have 2 sticks of Kingston Value Ram; but its not dual channel.


without being able to change the multi you probably wont get much over 230 stable, especially not without an overvolt. try overvolting, but your probably almost to the max of that multi. You could try kicking down the HT multi down the 4x, but i dont think thats whats limiting you right now. Could also be the ram limiting you, try setting the ram to lock down at ddr333 instead of 400 and see how that works. The oc your running should bring the ram back up to around 400 from 333 if you lock it down.

All ram is dual channel capable, provided they are both the same speed, timings, and voltage. Use those 2 sticks of the KVR in the first two slots closest to the cpu (i believe they are both white). Trust me, you will notice the difference in system speed just from this alone.


----------



## FatalityxZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AllenG*


without being able to change the multi you probably wont get much over 230 stable, especially not without an overvolt. try overvolting, but your probably almost to the max of that multi.

All ram is dual channel capable, provided they are both the same speed, timings, and voltage. Use those 2 sticks of the KVR in the first two slots closest to the cpu (i believe they are both white). Trust me, you will notice the difference in system speed just from this alone.


Ok thanks so much +rep


----------



## AllenG

edited last post after you already read it, read it again... added more useful info.


----------



## FatalityxZ

My multiplier is locked. I increased my vcore by 60Mz. "Could also be the ram limiting you, try setting the ram to lock down at ddr333 instead of 400 and see how that works. The oc your running should bring the ram back up to around 400 from 333 if you lock it down"
Could you explain how to do that?
Thanks.


----------



## AllenG

lemme pull back up the manual for your board and check out what settings your bios has. i'll edit in a few min when i find out what you can do.

Ok, it shows me some of the features but not all of them because they are so many menus deep.

Under "super speed"
turn off all spread spectrum options

Under "Performance Settings" from under the "super speed" menu
it doesnt show in the manual any of the settings under this menu, but you might just find cpu multiplier here... you can drop multipliers if there is an option for multipler... you just cant raise your multi.

Under advanced chipset features:

-DRAM Configuration: This is where you should be able to lock the ram down to a frequency, change ram voltage, etc.
-Timing mode: set to manual to lock down your speed, you better know what your ram timings are too (probably 3-3-3-8 2T) or you shouldnt be messing around here from the looks of it, there is no way to have it auto check the timings and be able to set your max mem clock from the looks of it.
-K8<->NB/NB-->SB/NB<--SB HTSpeed: This is your HT multiplier


----------



## Blitz6804

FatalityxZ: He means in the RAM setting to change DDR400 to DDR333. Or, to change 200:200 to 200:166. Or, change your RAM to 166 MHz. It depends on what your board labels it as.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Tator Tot, that would be a good idea considering this is a different socket.

N2Gaming, making a new thread would probably attract other AM2 users that may possibly be able to assist or even solve your problem.

Good luck


Thank you,

I was able to resolve it w/Asus. So no AM2 thread was required.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FatalityxZ*


Ok i installed the Xiggy.
Old temps used to be 57 load
now its 49 load.


FatalityxZ, awesome results. I'm glad the installation went well.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I was able to resolve it w/Asus. So no AM2 thread was required.


N2Gaming, mind if I ask what the fix was?

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, mind if I ask what the fix was? 
Good luck


But of course I mind







After all it would be off topic as blitz reminded us earlier when I posted it the first time in this thread.









All jokes aside. I would love to share w/the group and plan on using the method from here on out in the event I should have a issue booting after a bios flash or with any new mobo. I guess I'm some what still green.

BTW the flash was flawless on my part, it went w/out a hitch but the steps I took after the flash were what gave me the problems.

here is the link

N2G


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FatalityxZ*


2 things:
Ok this is really weird... after changing it to 240x11; there was an error message from windows when it started up and it said i was restarted in 1 minute. Then; on 236x11 Firefox kept crashing and my computer eventually BSODed. Now its back to 225x11 and it froze a few times before now. Whats should i do ?!
AllenG: I have 2 sticks of Kingston Value Ram; but its not dual channel.


 Sounds like a lack of voltage to me.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


HEY I saw this comment?
The 4th core is unlockable??? Wow now that makes all the difference in the world!


 I decided to go with the 710 purely from a financial standpoint. It's the cheapest AM3 out right now. I'll upgrade to a quad core when the price is right







. And some are unlockable. But then again there is a reason they were locked in the first place. I've read about people unlocking them but usually having major stability issues even at stock speeds. Not to mention the 7xx series seem to overclock _very_ well.

Im still not sure which board to get. I was looking at getting this $139 Gigabyte board, or this /$179 Gigabyte board.


----------



## thlnk3r

N2Gaming, I'll go ahead and post in the thread that you linked us too.

BlackOmega, testing and availability for these new DDR3 790FX boards doesn't seem to be wide spread yet so it's hard to say. In the past the 790FX has always offered more PCIe lanes then the 790X allowing for up to four video cards in Crossfire mode. It's also been mentioned that the 790FX comes with higher quality components. The GA 790FX you linked above only has two PCIe lanes so I am bit baffled. It looks like the main differences between the two is the amount of ethernet controllers and sata ports.

Sorry I wish I could provide more info for you. Perhaps starting a new thread in the General/Motherboard section may get you some more responses.

Good luck

Btw Omega I gave the 5.0 a nice wash this weekend. She is cccchiney


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Hey blitz I think their may be a problem with the formula when using ram spds of 180/ddr360. have you tried that ram spd yet. the formula shows the same spd as 166/ddr333









Thank you,

N2G

I was doing more thinking today on the way to class. Could you please tell me what multiplier, what HTT, and what dividers you tried again? I will recheck the formula.


----------



## FatalityxZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
FatalityxZ: He means in the RAM setting to change DDR400 to DDR333. Or, to change 200:200 to 200:166. Or, change your RAM to 166 MHz. It depends on what your board labels it as.

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=28wc5qp&s=5
It labels it as 133:200 :S


----------



## Blitz6804

133:200 would equate to DDR-266. Your RAM does not have a specified SPD for DDR-333 it seems. If you set the RAM to 166:200, set the timings to 2.5-3-3-8, you should be able to increase your HTT further. 254x11 with a 166:200 will give you DDR-400, which is why you should set the RAM timings manually to the DDR-400 timings. Leaving them on auto would make the RAM running too tight.

N2Gaming: I just did some fiddling. The only time that DDR-360 and DDR-333 produce the same results are for multipliers five or less and with a 10x multiplier. If you use DDR-366 (which is what I believe the divider is) it can properly compute the 10x multiplier. If I remember correctly, possible RAM dividers (through DFI) are:

DDR-200
DDR-250
DDR-266
DDR-286
DDR-300
DDR-333
DDR-366
DDR-400
DDR-500

Your possible dividers may be less numerous than this.

Here, I will post an XLS proving this.


----------



## FatalityxZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
133:200 would equate to DDR-266. Your RAM does not have a specified SPD for DDR-333 it seems. If you set the RAM to 166:200, set the timings to 2.5-3-3-8, you should be able to increase your HTT further. 254x11 with a 166:200 will give you DDR-400, which is why you should set the RAM timings manually to the DDR-400 timings. Leaving them on auto would make the RAM running too tight.

How can I set the RAM to 166:200? I'm currently running 236x11 stable after increasing my voltage by 60. Maximum temperature varies from 51-54 degrees load.


----------



## Blitz6804

Is there any setting in the BIOS for it? If you check your CPU-Z "Memory" tab, we can see what divider you are presently running.


----------



## FatalityxZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Is there any setting in the BIOS for it? If you check your CPU-Z "Memory" tab, we can see what divider you are presently running.



I know this is off topic but on my comfort curve keyboard the left arrow key just pooped out on me. Also sometimes (including now) the comma key doesnt work









:swearing:


----------



## Blitz6804

You are right now running the RAM with the DDR-400 divider. That is, the RAM will be running at the same speed as the HTT. This is why you start getting unstable if you go much faster. If you absolutely want more speed, things you can do involve changing the RAM to 2T command rate, loosening the RAM timings more (to 3-4-4-10 for example), or involving RAM voltage. I would suggest you try to find the RAM divider in your BIOS first. Might be called a "RAM divider," "RAM speed," "Memory ratio," or some combination thereof.


----------



## FatalityxZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


You are right now running the RAM with the DDR-400 divider. That is, the RAM will be running at the same speed as the HTT. This is why you start getting unstable if you go much faster. If you absolutely want more speed, things you can do involve changing the RAM to 2T command rate, loosening the RAM timings more (to 3-4-4-10 for example), or involving RAM voltage. I would suggest you try to find the RAM divider in your BIOS first. Might be called a "RAM divider," "RAM speed," "Memory ratio," or some combination thereof.


Ok; I'll take a picture of my BIOS soon. Anyways before someone mentioned something about CPU stepping; and added that you need to know the number on your CPU. Last night when I was installing the Xiggy I took a picture of it.
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=xf4me&s=5


----------



## Blitz6804

Doing some research, it seems like yours is called "CPU/DDR Clock Ratio"; you want 2/1.66. It is possible that the CPU multiplier is called "H8 CPU Clock Ratio" or "Hammer FID."

Your stepping would be KABQE 0546.


----------



## FatalityxZ

I wasn't so sure what you were talking about so I just took some random pictures. http://s653.photobucket.com/albums/uu253/fatalityxz/
What would I do with the CPU stepping?


----------



## Blitz6804

CPU stepping is a general guideline to tell you what sort of overclock you might get if your CPU matches others of the same setting. As Joe says, "they merely indicate possible outcomes due to the law of averages being in your favor."

In the third picture (IMG_1251), what are the options under Hammer Fid control?

In the second picture (IMG_1250), what are the options under PMU?

In the first image (IMG_1249), your memory divider is Memclock Index value. Change that to 166 MHz.


----------



## FatalityxZ

PMU there is only Auto and Disabled.
I changed the Memclock Index value. Now my RAM shows up as DDR 333.
Heres the Hammer Fid :http://s653.photobucket.com/albums/u...t=IMG_1253.jpg


----------



## Blitz6804

Hammer Fid, as I suspected, is your CPU multiplier. With your Athlon64 3700+, you have a maximum multiplier of 11x (2200MHz). You can set it lower (as low as 4x supposedly) but you may not set it higher. Sometimes, it is better to have a lower multiplier with a higher HTT, sometimes it is better to have a higher multiplier with a lower HTT. Only testing will prove this true in your case. Your CPU's speed is Hammer Fid times HTT.

Now that your RAM shows up as sub DDR-400 in CPU-Z, you can start increasing your HTT again. You should not have a RAM problem again until your HTT gets near 255, but only testing will prove or disprove this.


----------



## FatalityxZ

My HTT is now 244. Maximum temperature with load is 55 degrees. Should I keep going or stop?


----------



## Blitz6804

For a  ADA3700DAA5BN (Athlon64 3700+ E4 OEM) like yours, the maximum allowable temperature is 71Âº C according to AMD. I personally would like to keep it 65Âº C or lower.


----------



## FatalityxZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


For a  ADA3700DAA5BN (Athlon64 3700+ E4 OEM) like yours, the maximum allowable temperature is 71Âº C according to AMD. I personally would like to keep it 65Âº C or lower.


Uh oh, I tried 260x11, and tried to run a torture test with Prime95, but it says : FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0.49999993767 expected less than 0.4. Hardware failure detected, please check stress.txt file.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, testing and availability for these new DDR3 790FX boards doesn't seem to be wide spread yet so it's hard to say. In the past the 790FX has always offered more PCIe lanes then the 790X allowing for up to four video cards in Crossfire mode. It's also been mentioned that the 790FX comes with higher quality components. The GA 790FX you linked above only has two PCIe lanes so I am bit baffled. It looks like the main differences between the two is the amount of ethernet controllers and sata ports.

Sorry I wish I could provide more info for you. Perhaps starting a new thread in the General/Motherboard section may get you some more responses.

Good luck

Btw Omega I gave the 5.0 a nice wash this weekend. She is cccchiney


















, ahhh how I miss my stang.







I tried getting my 5.0 ranger last weekend but they said they couldn't tow it using AAA because it's not registered and insured.







Hopefully, Ill be able to get a new motor or rebuild the one thats in it this year. But heres the worst news. My dad put my T-5 transmission outside, it didnt have the shifter cover on and water got all inside of it and rusted it out thoroughly. When I picked it up, it dumped a gallon of rusty water out :swearing:

As for the boards, I decided to go with Gigabyte because of the number of PCIe slots. I have no use for 4 full size pcie slots. And good to know the 790FX has better parts I might just go that route if thats the case.

Sorry for the off topicness there.

On topic, Joe do you recall if the CFX board can use the lower PCIe slot as the primary? If not, I need to find a chipset fan.
Man, I wish I could get the freezing issue figured out with it. I want to give it to my folks but I'm apprehensive about it freezing up on my mom. She is the uber computer newb, it took me 15 min. on the phone to explain to her how to set her homepage to google. She doesn't listen. :swearing:


----------



## Hueristic

drop 2 10x. what were [email protected]?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FatalityxZ*


Uh oh, I tried 260x11, and tried to run a torture test with Prime95, but it says : FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0.49999993767 expected less than 0.4. Hardware failure detected, please check stress.txt file.

















 Dont use Orthos/prime/OCCT to stress test. They're not very good tests IMO. Use S&M v1.9.1 (its about 3/4 of the way down the page). Every overclock that I have gotten S&M stable has worked 24/7 with no issues. There are lots of posts of people using Orthos/Prime95/OCCT to stress test. Getting good results in those tests yet their computers crash when doing this or that. That doesn't happen with S&M. If it fails S&M I can guarantee you it'll crash. If you get it stable with S&M it won't crash. Also, S&M will tell you where it failed, whether it be the L1,L2 caches, memory, etc. It'll even test your PSU.
With that said it is _IMPERATIVE_ to watch temps when using this test, as it WILL get your CPU really hot. Especially during the L1 and FPU tests. 
If you don't already have it use coretemp to monitor your CPU. It measures the actual core temperature not the IHS (integrated heat sink) temp. Which you'll notice can vary as much as 20*C.
Good Luck,


----------



## Hueristic

BO, I think he is only on getting his HTT set right now, so whatever stress test he usees should be ok for now. He's loosening up everything else and blitz has been helping him. It looks like he has a non standard type bios that blitz has been helping him figure out. But you are correct. But lets not throw too much at him. Let him get his htt first then we can plaster him with far too much info and make his brain explode!


----------



## FatalityxZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Dont use Orthos/prime/OCCT to stress test. They're not very good tests IMO. Use S&M v1.9.1 (its about 3/4 of the way down the page). Every overclock that I have gotten S&M stable has worked 24/7 with no issues. There are lots of posts of people using Orthos/Prime95/OCCT to stress test. Getting good results in those tests yet their computers crash when doing this or that. That doesn't happen with S&M. If it fails S&M I can guarantee you it'll crash. If you get it stable with S&M it won't crash. Also, S&M will tell you where it failed, whether it be the L1,L2 caches, memory, etc. It'll even test your PSU.
With that said it is _IMPERATIVE_ to watch temps when using this test, as it WILL get your CPU really hot. Especially during the L1 and FPU tests. 
If you don't already have it use coretemp to monitor your CPU. It measures the actual core temperature not the IHS (integrated heat sink) temp. Which you'll notice can vary as much as 20*C.
Good Luck,










Thanks, I'll run SNM after my virus scan


----------



## Blitz6804

I would NOT recommend running S&M at this time FatalityxZ. S&M is an absolutely brutal test known to break lesser components. (Ask Joe's Corsairs what they think of S&M.) Start off with Orthos. If that works for a few hours, then go to S&M if you want to prove yourself rock-solid stable. Most computers that can pass Orthos for 12 hours can run without any issues, so S&M is only for bragging rights or for computers you absolutely need to be sure have no down time. S&M should generally only be used for you final stage of testing; not your temporary clocks you are doing now.

Regards the rounding error: I think you have it too fast for your present voltage. Drop the Hammer Fid to 10x (2000MHz) as Hueristic has suggested. Also reduce your RAM ratio to 2/1.5 if you have it, 2/1.33 if you do not. At present, you have DDR-409 which should not be an issue. 260x10 will give you DDR-433, which might give you issues. 2/1.33 gives you DDR-347 which will be good for testing. We will maximize your RAM bandwidth later. Right now, we want to find the highest possible HTT you can stabilize ignoring the RAM and CPU speed somewhat.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
If it fails S&M I can guarantee you it'll crash. If you get it stable with S&M it won't crash.

I believe that I have seen people in this thread state otherwise.
If I remember correctly it was something like passing S&M but crashing in CoD4.
Overclocks that never crash but simply won't pass S&M are not unheard of either.
But hey, no test is perfect. S&M is supposed to be one of the most trustworthy, I haven't used it myself so I can't really say much about it.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I would NOT recommend running S&M at this time FatalityxZ. S&M is an absolutely brutal test known to break lesser components. (Ask Joe's Corsairs what they think of S&M.) Start off with Orthos. If that works for a few hours, then go to S&M if you want to prove yourself rock-solid stable. Most computers that can pass Orthos for 12 hours can run without any issues, so S&M is only for bragging rights or for computers you absolutely need to be sure have no down time. S&M should generally only be used for you final stage of testing; not your temporary clocks you are doing now.

Regards the rounding error: I think you have it too fast for your present voltage. Drop the Hammer Fid to 10x (2000MHz) as Hueristic has suggested. Also reduce your RAM ratio to 2/1.5 if you have it, 2/1.33 if you do not. At present, you have DDR-409 which should not be an issue. 260x10 will give you DDR-433, which might give you issues. 2/1.33 gives you DDR-347 which will be good for testing. We will maximize your RAM bandwidth later. Right now, we want to find the highest possible HTT you can stabilize ignoring the RAM and CPU speed somewhat.

Well, I suppose if he's just testing the boards capability then Orthos/prime/OCCT should be fine. With every step up I only run a stress test for 5 minutes. If it passes, then I go on to the next step up. Once I achieve the max, I'll run the test longer.

I use S&M when testing the CPU. I've had several overclocks that fail Orthos,Prime,OCCT yet pass S&M with flying colors. That's why I don't condone the use of the aforementioned stress tests. I've read entirely too many posts where peoples' overclocks are supposedly 24 Orthos,OCCT,Prime stable yet they crash. Same has happened to me, once I started using S&M, lo and behold, not one crash.

Using S&M is a more hardcore test, sure. But, there are settings that can be manipulated to make it less stressful. And of course having adequate cooling is a must for whatever component you're testing.

Fatality, when testing the limits of the board itself the cpu multiplier should be as low as possible and still boot. With that said, if you have DDR400 RAM, ideally, you want it to stay around 200 MHz with every bump. I've noticed when its really low, the whole computer runs really slowly and can hang.
Good luck









EDIT:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
I believe that I have seen people in this thread state otherwise.
If I remember correctly it was something like passing S&M but crashing in CoD4.
Overclocks that never crash but simply won't pass S&M are not unheard of either.
But hey, no test is perfect. S&M is supposed to be one of the most trustworthy, I haven't used it myself so I can't really say much about it.

I haven't heard of many crashes that are 24 S&M stable. IIRC, the CoD4 crashes were a memory issue








I personally, have never seen or heard of an overclock that is totally stable yet won't pass S&M. But then again there aren't a lot of people using S&M as a testing tool.
I just like the fact that it tells me _where_ it fails. A failure that consists of "FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0.49999993767 expected less than 0.4. Hardware failure detected, please check stress.txt file" means nothing to me. With S&M when I get certain failures I know it's either a lack of voltage, temperature or just that my OC is too high and no matter what it wont be stable.


----------



## Blitz6804

That was me HothBase. My CPU overclock was stable, but my GPU driver was unstable. Ergo, I was S&M stable, but still subject to crashing. GPUs and CPUs are different; most stress testers (OCCT, Orthos, SuperPi, et cetera) test solely the CPU stability. S&M does some GPU testing, but not much; it tests the PSU more than the GPU. FurMark, RTHDRIBL, ATiTool, et cetera test GPU stability. However, I have had an overclock pass ATiTool and FurMark, but STILL crash in CoD4. No stability test is infallible. No PC is completely stable. Even at stock. The question is: "Is it stable enough?"

I know Thlnk3r had, for a while, tested stability by running FurMark and Orthos concurrently for 12-24 hours. To me, this seems like a good thing to try, even if only from the PSU testing standpoint.

BlackOmega: If you turn down S&M any from its highest settings, you have compromised its utility. S&M, when not running full tilt, is substantially similar to the other tests mentioned above.


----------



## thlnk3r

Great suggestions Blitz









Quote:



Originally Posted by *FatalityxZ*


Uh oh, I tried 260x11, and tried to run a torture test with Prime95, but it says : FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0.49999993767 expected less than 0.4. Hardware failure detected, please check stress.txt file.

















FatalityxZ, I have a KAB1E 3700+ at home and in order for me to run 260HTT * 11x I had to run a tad higher Vcore then stock. I believe it was in the area of 1.425 - 1.45 volts. I didn't really care much for that voltage because I planned on leaving the machine on 24/7. In any case you may need to raise your Vcore. The steps that *Blitz* has you going through will help isolate each component. This is one of the first things to do before you really start pushing for a OC.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


My dad put my T-5 transmission outside, it didnt have the shifter cover on and water got all inside of it and rusted it out thoroughly. When I picked it up, it dumped a gallon of rusty water out :swearing:


BlackOmega, there goes your budget for computer parts. Now you need to buy new internals. Junk yard ftw. Wow that sucks LOL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I know Thlnk3r had, for a while, tested stability by running FurMark and Orthos concurrently for 12-24 hours. To me, this seems like a good thing to try, even if only from the PSU testing standpoint.


Blitz, actually I never could get Furmark to work. So instead I did the ATITool 0.26 3DView and Orthos combo. Worked pretty good though I don't think my video card was able to load at 100% only because Orthos at priority 9 was using most of the system resources.

Good luck guys!


----------



## HothBase

Ah, I still think I have heard of people failing S&M with otherwise satisfactory overclocks.

I have thought of running both CPU and GPU test simultaneously before. But wont they kind of interrupt/interfere with one another so that they become less efficient?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


Ah, I still think I have heard of people failing S&M with otherwise satisfactory overclocks.

I have thought of running both CPU and GPU test simultaneously before. But wont they kind of interrupt/interfere with one another so that they become less efficient?


HothBase, S&M failed on me the first two seconds. Something about my +5volt rail being below spec. A multimeter check confirmed lies (under idle/load)









I believe Joe will have some comments later about S&M. He mentioned to me over the weekend that he may not be running that stress test application anymore.

I still prefer OCCT/Orthos

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Joe, founder of the unofficial S&M stress test club, is not going to be running it anymore? I have to hear this story!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Joe, founder of the unofficial S&M stress test club, is not going to be running it anymore? I have to hear this story!


Blitz, well I'm not entirely 100% sure but we did talk about it briefly.


----------



## FatalityxZ

Hey guys, problem here. I was installing Symantec Anti-Virus, when my computer froze. I restarted it, and now its *EXTREMELY* slow. Spyware S&D didn't detect anything, I cleaned my registry, but its still extremely slow! Usually when I start up MSN loads in about 2 seconds. Now it takes 10 minutes







! What should I do?

:swearing::swearing::swearing::swearing::swearing: :swearing::swearing:


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FatalityxZ*


Hey guys, problem here. I was installing Symantec Anti-Virus, when my computer froze. I restarted it, and now its *EXTREMELY* slow. Spyware S&D didn't detect anything, I cleaned my registry, but its still extremely slow! Usually when I start up MSN loads in about 2 seconds. Now it takes 10 minutes







! What should I do?

:swearing::swearing::swearing::swearing::swearing: :swearing::swearing:


 Try using system restore and restore it to the last known good config.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


BlackOmega: If you turn down S&M any from its highest settings, you have compromised its utility. S&M, when not running full tilt, is substantially similar to the other tests mentioned above.


 I've only ever turned down the load when the temps were getting out of hand. I will NEVER let my 180 go above 65*C @ the core







. The 3500+ on the other hand has seen temps of over 80*C @ the core









Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, there goes your budget for computer parts. Now you need to buy new internals. Junk yard ftw. Wow that sucks LOL


 The hell with internals, the output shaft alone costs in excess of $500. You can get a whole new trans for cheaper. And I've got a secret method of using a 4cyl T-5 on V-8's









Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


HothBase, S&M failed on me the first two seconds. Something about my +5volt rail being below spec. A multimeter check confirmed lies (under idle/load)









I believe Joe will have some comments later about S&M. He mentioned to me over the weekend that he may not be running that stress test application anymore.

I still prefer OCCT/Orthos

Good luck


 Weird, I have never had it stop because of low voltage







I didn't even think that option was available.

And Joe not running S&M WHAT!?!?!?


----------



## Blitz6804

FatalityxZ: Clear the CMOS. Sometimes an unstable overclock can persist after a reboot, but the CMOS clear should fix.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I was doing more thinking today on the way to class. Could you please tell me what multiplier, what HTT, and what dividers you tried again? I will recheck the formula.

blitz thank you, I belive I was tring to use the 10 * multiplier with fsb of about 220 - 250 and the 180 ram speed.

My bios options for ram is as follows
250
233
216
200
180
166
150
140
133
120
100

When I used the 180 and the 166 I get the same results in the excell calculator or course I multiplied those two ram settings by 2 before using them in excell so 10 * 225 & the ram of 360 or 333 produces the same results in excell.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah; there is a mistake in your BIOS. It says 180, but it is actually doing 183. If you type in 366 (183x2) into the sheet, it works fine.

10x225 DDR-366 = 409 MHz
10x225 DDR-333 = 375 MHz


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Yeah; there is a mistake in your BIOS. It says 180, but it is actually doing 183. If you type in 366 (183x2) into the sheet, it works fine.

10x225 DDR-366 = 409 MHz
10x225 DDR-333 = 375 MHz


Thanks.


----------



## FatalityxZ

Hey guys, after using system restore to monday, I got rid of whatever was causing the slowdown. Anyways, the restore made it go back to 225x11, and DDR 400 ram, so I tried making it 244x11 with +60vcore, but the bootup said "CPU Frequency problem please change in CMOS" . I know its not right because just this morning I was doing 244x11.


----------



## Blitz6804

Did you remember to set the RAM to 2/1.66 again? Otherwise, it is running DDR-488.


----------



## FatalityxZ

Oh yeah...














forgot about that.
I'm now running 250x11 stable. My ram timings are 3-3-3-8 1T. I think I'll stay at 250. What are the best RAM timings for it?


----------



## Blitz6804

If you can do it, 255x11 gives you a 2.8 GHz CPU with DDR-400. In either event, 254x11 or 255x11, you should run 2.5-3-3-8-1T if you are running 2.500 V as per your SPD. If you want a little tighter, you might be able to do 2-3-3-6-1T at 2.700 V or higher, but I would not increase the voltage past 2.600 V unless you have heatsinks on the RAM.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FatalityxZ* 
Oh yeah...














forgot about that.
I'm now running 250x11 stable. My ram timings are 3-3-3-8 1T. I think I'll stay at 250. What are the best RAM timings for it?

FatalityxZ, how much Vcore are you currently running with the 250HTT overclock?

Good luck


----------



## FatalityxZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
FatalityxZ, how much Vcore are you currently running with the 250HTT overclock?

Good luck


I'm running +80mZ


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FatalityxZ* 
I'm running +80mZ

Errr....







80 mV? So 1.43v?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FatalityxZ* 
I'm running +80mZ

FatalityxZ, what does that equate to in "voltage". Sorry I'm not familiar with the conversion so please excuse my ignorance.

Thanks









EDIT:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Errr....







80 mV? So 1.43v?

BlackOmega, thanks for the clarification.

FatalityxZ, what the modifications you made to your HTT and memory what kind of stability testing are you doing right now?


----------



## FatalityxZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Errr....







80 mV? So 1.43v?

Yeah mV







1.47v in CPU-Z.


----------



## thlnk3r

FatalityxZ, see my edit posted above.


----------



## FatalityxZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
FatalityxZ, what does that equate to in "voltage". Sorry I'm not familiar with the conversion so please excuse my ignorance.

Thanks









EDIT:

BlackOmega, thanks for the clarification.

FatalityxZ, what the modifications you made to your HTT and memory what kind of stability testing are you doing right now?

Sorry for my ignorance, I typed it out wrong, it should be mV. I have increased my HTT from 200 to 250. I have set my RAM from 200mHz to 166mHz so now it runs at DDR 333. Stability testing wise I am just using Prime95 and gaming


----------



## Blitz6804

Actually, it does not run at DDR-333. If your HTT were 200, it would be. However, since you have your HTT at 250 with a 11x multiplier, it runs at DDR-393. When you have a chance, it might help if you modify your rig settings to show that the CPU is an "AMD Athlon64 3700+" rather than just leaving it as "Athlon64."

Much like when I was running my Toledo on my Gigabyte GA-K8NSC-939.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FatalityxZ*


Sorry for my ignorance, I typed it out wrong, it should be mV. I have increased my HTT from 200 to 250. I have set my RAM from 200mHz to 166mHz so now it runs at DDR 333. Stability testing wise I am just using Prime95 and gaming










FatalityxZ, no worries. I was really confused by the "+80Mz"









At the moment I am able to achieve 250HTT * 11x on my 3700+ KAB1E with only 1.36volts. I haven't lapped the IHS (integrated heat spreader) yet but my idle temps have been around 28C - 34C and loads were between 36C - 40C. As soon as you start to get in the upwards of 2850Mhz - 2900Mhz then it may require some more Vcore. A 3Ghz OC was certainly attainable with my 3700+ at 1.5 volts.

I'm glad Blitz got you situated with your memory, that is probably the only thing that gets confusing at times.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

thlnk3r: Are you talking about a different CPU than the one presently in your sig rig which is listed as a KAB1E? The KAB2E and KAB3E were supposedly really good overclockers.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


thlnk3r: Are you talking about a different CPU than the one presently in your sig rig which is listed as a KAB1E? The KAB2E and KAB3E were supposedly really good overclockers.


Blitz, sorry for the typo...I meant the KAB1E. Man it's way to busy at work today


----------



## FatalityxZ

Hm.. I increased the HTT to 260. I'm currently running S&M as a stability test, looks good, temps never run above 55.


----------



## Blitz6804

Fantastic FatalityxZ! I wish you luck! 2860 MHz with DDR 409 unless I am mistaken.


----------



## FatalityxZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FatalityxZ*


Hm.. I increased the HTT to 260. I'm currently running S&M as a stability test, looks good, temps never run above 55.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Fantastic FatalityxZ! I wish you luck! 2860 MHz with DDR 409 unless I am mistaken.


Yes 2680 MHz but I am not sure how to check the ram.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FatalityxZ*


Yes 2680 MHz but I am not sure how to check the ram.


cpuz will tell you in the memory tab just double the spd it says your are running your ram at.


----------



## FatalityxZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


cpuz will tell you in the memory tab just double the spd it says your are running your ram at.


Then yes; 409









EDIT : Here're my new results.







http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=529260


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FatalityxZ*


Then yes; 409










Giddy up 409


----------



## Blitz6804

FatalityxZ: If you start experiencing instability, you might need to reduce your hypertransport speed. This is done by changing K8 <-> NB HT Speed to 4x.










*EDIT*: I just noticed your System BIOS Cacheable is enabled. That should be disabled. What it does is copy the contents of your EEPROM to the L2 Cache to make the computer boot (slightly) faster. However, the disadvantage is that if anything tries to write into that particular address space, the PC can crash. Windows should be smart enough not to do so, but you have less L2 Cache to play with when it is enabled.


----------



## FatalityxZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


FatalityxZ: If you start experiencing instability, you might need to reduce your hypertransport speed. This is done by changing K8 <-> NB HT Speed to 4x.










*EDIT*: I just noticed your System BIOS Cacheable is enabled. That should be disabled. What it does is copy the contents of your EEPROM to the L2 Cache to make the computer boot (slightly) faster. However, the disadvantage is that if anything tries to write into that particular address space, the PC can crash. Windows should be smart enough not to do so, but you have less L2 Cache to play with when it is enabled.


Oh. I'll disabled it later. Thanks so much everyone! I would be still playing Burnout Paradise at 5FPS if it wasn't for OCN..







. I'll try 270x11 tomorrow because my max load temp is still 55-56.


----------



## Blitz6804

You will almost certainly need to drop the hypertransport multiplier to 4x if you try 270... I cannot imagine it being stable with a 2700 MHz (dual-pumped 1350 MHz) hypertransport.


----------



## FatalityxZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


You will almost certainly need to drop the hypertransport multiplier to 4x if you try 270... I cannot imagine it being stable with a 2700 MHz (dual-pumped 1350 MHz) hypertransport.


Yep; changing it right now.









EDIT: After changing it and doing 270 I got the "CPU Frenquency Please edit BIOS settings" error message again. I tried to make the RAM go down to 133mHZ but that didn't work either.


----------



## Blitz6804

It could be that the CPU speed is just too high. Try reducing the Hammer Fid to 10x. If it proceeds, that is what it was. If it still errors out, you might have hit your HTT limit.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
*EDIT*: I just noticed your System BIOS Cacheable is enabled. That should be disabled. What it does is copy the contents of your EEPROM to the L2 Cache to make the computer boot (slightly) faster. However, the disadvantage is that if anything tries to write into that particular address space, the PC can crash. Windows should be smart enough not to do so, but you have less L2 Cache to play with when it is enabled.

*I wholeheartedly disagree* Caching your system BIOS gives a great boost in speed and I've never had an issue with it. If a program overwrites it then toss that program (that means it is poorly written garbage).


----------



## FatalityxZ

Hmm.. I think I'll just stay at 260 now. Can anyone suggest the best ram timings? (Currently have 3-3-3-8 1T)


----------



## Blitz6804

I would start with 2.5-3-3-8-1T as per your DDR-400 SPD. If that works, try tightening down to 2.5-3-3-6-1T. If that works, go for 2.5-3-2-5-1T. If that works, go for 2.0-3-3-6-1T. If that works, go for 2.0-3-2-5-1T. If that works, go for 2.0-2-2-5-1T. If that works, try decreasing RAM voltage a bit and see if stability remains. (Why send more voltage then needed?)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


I believe Joe will have some comments later about S&M. *He mentioned to me over the weekend that he may not be running that stress test application anymore*.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Joe, founder of the unofficial S&M stress test club, is not going to be running it anymore? I have to hear this story!


Well, thlnk3r is more accurate here. We had one of our periodic meet-and-eats last weekend, and I did tell him that I was considering eschewing S&M as a stability test. (Note that I did *not* say that I was *never* using it ever again in the future. It's a fine distinction, but the devil is always in the details.







)

I have never run a more demanding stability test than S&M. And, as other have already recounted, its reputation for breaking weak components is absolutely well-deserved in my experience. No other stability test program has ever broken any piece of my hardware except for S&M (I lost a RAM DIMM to S&M a couple of years ago).

But a computer's stability is one of those crazy things which is almost impossible to define due to the fact that there are just so many variables constantly shifting and changing conditions which influence the result of testing. I think a computer is really only "stable" when it's turned off; nothing crashes when the power's not flowing through it.

So why did I tell thlnk3r that I was considering not using S&M as a stress test anymore? As always, in overclocking you have two sides in a constant state of opposition: Speed and "stability" (however you may choose to define it) are always counter-balancing each other. You go too far favoring one side, the other side will inevitably suffer. What's always true, though, is that the faster you make your chip run, the greater your potential for an unstable system.

The goofy thing is that, even if your hardware configuration and setup are "stable" according to whatever test you subscribe to, there is always a chance for the system to crash, to bluescreen, to freeze, to exhibit instability. And it's almost impossible to narrow down the specific reason why the system exhibits certain signs of instability even after a successful stability test.

Here's the bottom line for me: There is no such thing as "stable" in the world of computing. Even machines at completely stock settings can crash or freeze (ask my co-worker here at the office; her C2D freezes at least three or four times a week). There is only "stable enough." S&M might indicate your settings are stable at a given speed (say, 2.8GHz on a dual-core S939 Opteron), yet the rig will still exhibit weird behaviors indicating instability. Run the rig at 2.9GHz, fail S&M, and yet you NEVER have any unstable behavior.







How do you figure that? (I'm not talking about my sig rig specifically, but on other machines I've played with I've seen it happen.)

I think the ultimate indicator of stability for any settings is if the machine never misbehaves at a given configuration.

Have I given up using S&M? No. But will I let it be the sole indicator of what is stable? Absolutely not.


----------



## AllenG

The page of firewire! woot. lol

Hey, where you socal boys at? If you'd rather not disclose precise locations in public, pm me. Might be fun to get a lan party together if you guys are down.


----------



## AllenG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FatalityxZ*


Hmm.. I think I'll just stay at 260 now. Can anyone suggest the best ram timings? (Currently have 3-3-3-8 1T)


Glad to see you got your rig running in a way that you like! Noticed you got the DC setup right too, wonderful! Personally, i would leave the timings at 3-3-3-8... i like that setting with ddr running at 400 or over, those timings are still decently tight as far as im concerned.


----------



## Pest

Just got an RMA number from Asus, I'll be shipping the old girl out on Thursday.








This P4 can't do anything, 3 1/2 hours to rip a dvd is rediculous.


----------



## Poser

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


...
The goofy thing is that, even if your hardware configuration and setup are "stable" according to whatever test you subscribe to, there is always a chance for the system to crash, to bluescreen, to freeze, to exhibit instability. And it's almost impossible to narrow down the specific reason why the system exhibits certain signs of instability even after a successful stability test.

Here's the bottom line for me: *There is no such thing as "stable" in the world of computing*...


An extremely accurate assessment of the "overclocking" experience. Stability is an "observed state". S&M, though a brutal suite... and one that I keep in my arsenal benching tools, is merely one such state. If your machine was to fail S&M...and yet operate perfectly under all other conditions, wouldnt that meet stability in terms of your needs. Conversely, should it pass S&M, and yet bluescreen every time you run a defrag or ghost a drive... wouldnt that been an unacceptable state?

The long and short of what I get from Joe's statement, is that while S&M is a noteworthy tool... there may be "kinder and gentler" means of establishing your personal level of system "stability"


----------



## Blitz6804

OMG! Its the god of RAM tweaking himself! How have you been Poser? We have not seen you in a while... we need you to tell everyone how to get 4 DIMMs really cracking!


----------



## simfreak47

Off topic: blitz6804, I love your avatar


----------



## Poser

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
OMG! Its the god of RAM tweaking himself! How have you been Poser? We have not seen you in a while... we need you to tell everyone how to get 4 DIMMs really cracking!

Blitzer, I can see from your sig-rig, you have been busy building monsters yourself. It is good to be back perusing the forums for enjoyment...its been far too long







Last time I checked the thread...it was at a lengthy 79 pages. Needless to say, I got me some reading to do.









As for 4 dimm cooking, Max async latency...there within lie the secrets of 4*1 goodness.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 

So why did I tell thlnk3r that I was considering not using S&M as a stress test anymore? As always, in overclocking you have two sides in a constant state of opposition: Speed and "stability" (however you may choose to define it) are always counter-balancing each other. You go too far favoring one side, the other side will inevitably suffer. What's always true, though, is that the faster you make your chip run, the greater your potential for an unstable system.

The goofy thing is that, even if your hardware configuration and setup are "stable" according to whatever test you subscribe to, there is always a chance for the system to crash, to bluescreen, to freeze, to exhibit instability. And it's almost impossible to narrow down the specific reason why the system exhibits certain signs of instability even after a successful stability test.

Here's the bottom line for me: There is no such thing as "stable" in the world of computing. Even machines at completely stock settings can crash or freeze (ask my co-worker here at the office; her C2D freezes at least three or four times a week). There is only "stable enough." S&M might indicate your settings are stable at a given speed (say, 2.8GHz on a dual-core S939 Opteron), yet the rig will still exhibit weird behaviors indicating instability. *Run the rig at 2.9GHz, fail S&M, and yet you NEVER have any unstable behavior.*







How do you figure that? (I'm not talking about my sig rig specifically, but on other machines I've played with I've seen it happen.)

Have I given up using S&M? No. But *will I let it be the sole indicator of what is stable? Absolutely not.*

I typically run a barrage of tests at a given overclock. S&M being one of them that can actually give me feedback as to what might be potentially wrong with my overclock. That information is invaluable when it comes down to trying to stabilize an overclock.

As for the failure @ 2.9, out of curiosity which test did it fail? L1 per chance?
If the overclock fails S&M yet exhibits no unstable behavior, IMO, it is just a matter of time until it does. After reading an AMD internal document pertaining to L1 cache failures of the opterons, which is a matter of voltage, over a period of time more and more bad/dead sectors will appear with more and more regular frequency. Eventually, the chip will not even be able to run at stock timings or voltage due to the permanent damage within it. Now this is purely my opinion and mere speculation.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I typically run a barrage of tests at a given overclock. S&M being one of them that can actually give me feedback as to what might be potentially wrong with my overclock. That information is invaluable when it comes down to trying to stabilize an overclock.

That's a solid, reliable, systematic regimen. I couldn't fault that at all.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
As for the failure @ 2.9, out of curiosity which test did it fail? L1 per chance?

Per my notes, the overclocks in question failed in the Cache Level 2 test consistently. Raising VCore sometimes allowed the testing to proceed up to the FPU test, whereupon failures became almost immediate.

My conclusions during such tests was that it would take a rather sizable increase in VCore to overcome the cause of FPU calculation failure.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
If the overclock fails S&M yet exhibits no unstable behavior, IMO, it is just a matter of time until it does. After reading an AMD internal document pertaining to L1 cache failures of the opterons, which is a matter of voltage, over a period of time more and more bad/dead sectors will appear with more and more regular frequency. Eventually, the chip will not even be able to run at stock timings or voltage due to the permanent damage within it. Now this is purely my opinion and mere speculation.

Well said here, BlackOmega. What I would offer, though, is that even without failing S&M (or indeed RUNNING S&M) the same can be said about almost any personal computer, especially one that is forced to run faster than its designated stock speed. Even at stock speeds, even with components that could be categorized as utterly reliable (new, fresh out of the box parts with zero miles on them, so to speak) which pass all other tests, S&M might still fail. Or, conversely, I've seen machines which pass tests all day long, yet when are used in a normal everyday situation, they exhibit weird behaviors that suggest they are unstable. (I'm fairly close to my work's IT staff, and have been on hand when they "run in" a new machine. They install an image of an OS install and the suite of software my work uses, then they test them using all sorts of tools -- some are familiar such as MemTest86+, Prime95, etc. The machine passes, yet it's inevitable that the IT staff will get a call that the same machine froze that day during normal operation.)

I'm not one to leave my machine on beyond the time I'm actually using it. Once I'm done with it, I turn it off. So perhaps I've not yet been caught by the inevitable failure that lurks behind long, protracted use.

Still, there's something to be said about having a fast machine that is also S&M stable. It might be my one expression of e-peen waving that all we PC enthusiasts seem to enjoy so much.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
That's a solid, reliable, systematic regimen. I couldn't fault that at all.

Per my notes, the overclocks in question failed in the Cache Level 2 test consistently. Raising VCore sometimes allowed the testing to proceed up to the FPU test, whereupon failures became almost immediate.

My conclusions during such tests was that it would take a rather sizable increase in VCore to overcome the cause of FPU calculation failure.

Well said here, BlackOmega. What I would offer, though, is that even without failing S&M (or indeed RUNNING S&M) the same can be said about almost any personal computer, especially one that is forced to run faster than its designated stock speed. Even at stock speeds, even with components that could be categorized as utterly reliable (new, fresh out of the box parts with zero miles on them, so to speak) which pass all other tests, S&M might still fail. Or, conversely, I've seen machines which pass tests all day long, yet when are used in a normal everyday situation, they exhibit weird behaviors that suggest they are unstable. (I'm fairly close to my work's IT staff, and have been on hand when they "run in" a new machine. They install an image of an OS install and the suite of software my work uses, then they test them using all sorts of tools -- some are familiar such as MemTest86+, Prime95, etc. The machine passes, yet it's inevitable that the IT staff will get a call that the same machine froze that day during normal operation.)

I'm not one to leave my machine on beyond the time I'm actually using it. Once I'm done with it, I turn it off. So perhaps I've not yet been caught by the inevitable failure that lurks behind long, protracted use.

Still, there's something to be said about having a fast machine that is also S&M stable. It might be my one expression of e-peen waving that all we PC enthusiasts seem to enjoy so much.









Good Stuff Guys.









I would like to share some of my success and ask a question while I'm at it.

What would be a safe NB Frequency and what is NB Frequency? You can see a fairly overclocked NB Frequency in this cpuz screen shot


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


What would be a safe NB Frequency and what is NB Frequency? You can see a fairly overclocked NB Frequency in this cpuz screen shot


N2Gaming, see my last post in the M2N32-SLI thread. I believe that is the "HT" speed (factory 1800Mhz) for your PhII 940. All though I could be wrong









Joe, well said. Frankly I never ran S&M because I was too scared.


----------



## GuardianOdin

I've been seeing a lot off topic talk in the thread as of late and thought of an idea. Wouldn't be easier for the thread and the officials if we just called it " The Official AMD Appreciation Club and Knowledge base" ? In all honesty that would save us from having to yell "off topic!"

I say this because of our collective knowledge of AMD CPU's. Anyway just an idea


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Per my notes, the overclocks in question failed in the Cache Level 2 test consistently. Raising VCore sometimes allowed the testing to proceed up to the FPU test, whereupon failures became almost immediate.

My conclusions during such tests was that it would take a rather sizable increase in VCore to overcome the cause of FPU calculation failure.

Well said here, BlackOmega. What I would offer, though, is that even without failing S&M (or indeed RUNNING S&M) the same can be said about almost any personal computer, especially one that is forced to run faster than its designated stock speed. Even at stock speeds, even with components that could be categorized as utterly reliable (new, fresh out of the box parts with zero miles on them, so to speak) which pass all other tests, S&M might still fail. Or, conversely, I've seen machines which pass tests all day long, yet when are used in a normal everyday situation, they exhibit weird behaviors that suggest they are unstable. (I'm fairly close to my work's IT staff, and have been on hand when they "run in" a new machine. They install an image of an OS install and the suite of software my work uses, then they test them using all sorts of tools -- some are familiar such as MemTest86+, Prime95, etc. The machine passes, yet it's inevitable that the IT staff will get a call that the same machine froze that day during normal operation.)

I'm not one to leave my machine on beyond the time I'm actually using it. Once I'm done with it, I turn it off. So perhaps I've not yet been caught by the inevitable failure that lurks behind long, protracted use.

Still, there's something to be said about having a fast machine that is also S&M stable. It might be my one expression of e-peen waving that all we PC enthusiasts seem to enjoy so much.

















I've never seen a CPU fail L2 to tell you honestly. I haven't researched anything about L2 failures. So I have no clue as to where the problem might lie. But I might look in to it.

And it seems to me that FPU failures are similar to L1 where more voltage will usually fix the issue.

And until I started folding, I also shut everything down including my monitor (it still draws power in standby). But now I'm not folding anymore so when not in use, its off. Too bad I can't convince the wife to do the same :swearing:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, well said. Frankly I never ran S&M because I was too scared.

th|nk3r, there is nothing to be scared of. You just have to run it a few times at the short duration 100% load(takes like 5min), and watch your temps. If you're comfortable with the temps you're getting then run it longer. Beware the FPU test, she will get your CPU _very_ hot.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
I've been seeing a lot off topic talk in the thread as of late and thought of an idea. Wouldn't be easier for the thread and the officials if we just called it " The Official AMD Appreciation Club and Knowledge base" ? In all honesty that would save us from having to yell "off topic!"

I say this because of our collective knowledge of AMD CPU's. Anyway just an idea

You make a good point yet still if someone is trying to set up a 939 rig and is google-ing for help and what not then they might not ever find this club for assistance w/their 939 set up's during their google searches. I mean if the club name is changed we may se less 939 traffic. Speaking for myslef if & when I tend to get off toppic "sorry guys it happens" by straying away from socket 939 toppics then it's only becuase I feel more commeradery and hold things in common w/members here is this thread more so then with members of other club threads and am comfortable with the wealth of knowledge here. That don't mean that I don't partake in other threads. I just tend to post here and to a couple other threads that I know I won't have to wait several days to get a response. I mean there is a lot of members here that keep this thread alive almost by the minute.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

BlackOmega, your post is exactly part of what I'm driving at. You may have never witnessed something, but that just speaks to just how many potential factors really are at work here.

Think of it as a house of cards, actually. Perhaps it's an exaggeration, but to keep the whole thing up without falling apart depends on so many conditions being perfectly right. Just one little thing is enough to take the whole edifice down. Similarly, with a computer, just one little item (a missed calculation, a mistimed calculation, a single bad line or piece of code, etc.) is enough to cause a failure. Even in systems with parity checks, error checks, and redundancies built in (think of enterprise-class server equipment), such errors still happen. But because of the error-checking protocols built in, the end users seldom ever see the hiccups when they occur.

Nothing in this life, not even computers, is perfect.


----------



## Blitz6804

I personally have had a rig that passes S&M no issue, but it would periodically bluescreen. It is not perfect.

Regards the off-topic: NB and HT are not the same. I do not know EXACTLY what NB does, but I know it must be equal to or greater than HT to maintain stability.

EDIT: I did some research regards NB. Whereas HT had a de minimis impact on L2 cache and Memory Bandwidth, NB has a massive impact on Memory Bandwidth. Sources seem to indicate from 1200 MHz to 1800 MHz, memory bandwidth increases by 1000-2000 MBps depending on the system. What to take from this: get your NB as high as it is stable, continue to ignore HT as long as it is over 850 MHz.


----------



## Blitz6804

Oh... and regards TIM cleaning... coffee filters also work well if you do not have Kimwipes.


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz, correct they are different. Check out the M2N32-SLI thread here, mainly post #1370 read over the last link. Very helpful. Talks about the NB multipliers and dividers.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Does anyone own a dremel they would be willing to ship to me on loan? I want to do some cable management holes, but my sad excuse for a drill does not have enough power to run a hole saw.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


You make a good point yet still if someone is trying to set up a 939 rig and is google-ing for help and what not then they might not ever find this club for assistance w/their 939 set up's during their google searches. I mean if the club name is changed we may se less 939 traffic. Speaking for myslef if & when I tend to get off toppic "sorry guys it happens" by straying away from socket 939 toppics then it's only becuase I feel more commeradery and hold things in common w/members here is this thread more so then with members of other club threads and am comfortable with the wealth of knowledge here. That don't mean that I don't partake in other threads. I just tend to post here and to a couple other threads that I know I won't have to wait several days to get a response. I mean there is a lot of members here that keep this thread alive almost by the minute.










Yes a balance of a club and knowledge base is actually impossibility as the two are diametrically opposed. But this thread walks the line well. As long as we don't take offence when the line gets drawn we can all enjoy the benefits of both!

Personally it would be nice to see the banter dissapear after a few days and only leave the meat but that would be a full time job on this thread alone!
















Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Does anyone own a dremel they would be willing to ship to me on loan? I want to do some cable management holes, but my sad excuse for a drill does not have enough power to run a hole saw.


something like this (non-name dremil) works great and will cost less than shipping.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...CategoryID=111

AFA NB's go anything that is bandwidth intensive but cannot be moved onto the cpu resideds on the nb, if it is not bandwidth intensive it is regulated to the SB. There is no set rules for this. It's a balancing act. One good example of this is the recent mem controller moving onto the cpu die.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


BlackOmega, your post is exactly part of what I'm driving at. You may have never witnessed something, but that just speaks to just how many potential factors really are at work here.

Think of it as a house of cards, actually. Perhaps it's an exaggeration, but to keep the whole thing up without falling apart depends on so many conditions being perfectly right. Just one little thing is enough to take the whole edifice down. Similarly, with a computer, just one little item (a missed calculation, a mistimed calculation, a single bad line or piece of code, etc.) is enough to cause a failure. Even in systems with parity checks, error checks, and redundancies built in (think of enterprise-class server equipment), such errors still happen. But because of the error-checking protocols built in, the end users seldom ever see the hiccups when they occur.

Nothing in this life, not even computers, is perfect.










 Very true Joe very true


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


AFA NB's go anything that is bandwidth intensive but cannot be moved onto the cpu resideds on the nb, if it is not bandwidth intensive it is regulated to the SB. There is no set rules for this. It's a balancing act. One good example of this is the recent mem controller moving onto the cpu die.


Hueristic, maybe I'm confused by your post but I believe the NB Frequency is on die. It's a completely separate entity from the board. Let me know if I miss understood you









Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


something like this (non-name dremil) works great and will cost less than shipping.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...CategoryID=111

AFA NB's go anything that is bandwidth intensive but cannot be moved onto the cpu resideds on the nb, if it is not bandwidth intensive it is regulated to the SB. There is no set rules for this. It's a balancing act. One good example of this is the recent mem controller moving onto the cpu die.


hueristic you beat me to it. I was going to suggest a good dremmel at walmart. They can useually be had for $20-30. and after blitz pays for the shipping both ways to/from he would just be better off owning one and keeping it in his corner pocket for future endeavors.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Hueristic, maybe I'm confused by your post but I believe the NB Frequency is on die. It's a completely separate entity from the board. Let me know if I miss understood you









Good luck


Yes it is, Im talking about the components within the chip.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


hueristic you beat me to it. I was going to suggest a good dremmel at walmart. They can useually be had for $20-30. and after blitz pays for the shipping both ways to/from he would just be better off owning one and keeping it in his corner pocket for future endeavors.


----------



## thlnk3r

Guys, please leave the rants for the Rants and Raves section









Thanks


----------



## N2Gaming

Hi all. The Venice shipped on 03/16/2009 and is scheduled to be delivered on 03/23/2009. That's this coming monday. Awe man I was hoping to try it over the week end. Maybe it's a sign from god that I should just put the pc down for a bit. the package weight 6.60 lbs so I'm confident I will be getting the whole package as advertised on ebay.


----------



## Blitz6804

Is not a CPU only two pounds or less...? OH! The DFI Venus! Nevermind.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Holy Venus Envy, Batman!

I had completely forgotten about your post, N2G! Congrats on snagging THE most coveted S939 board around!







For a cheap price too!

Hope it's a runner.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Holy Venus Envy, Batman!

I had completely forgotten about your post, N2G! Congrats on snagging THE most coveted S939 board around!







For a cheap price too!

Hope it's a runner.











Thanks Joe,







think3r had warned me about you and my having made this Venice purchase. So long as you don't show up to work in green tights w/a cape and eye mask then we are all good w/your Venus Envy!


----------



## nategr8ns

What is it about the Venus that makes it better?

I think I'm just going to back up my photoshop-stuff and reformat. I want to see if I can break 2.7 with the DFI







.


----------



## Blitz6804

As far as I know, smother power delivery than a normal Expert. Also, a custom collector's box with extra accessories.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
What is it about the Venus that makes it better?

I think I'm just going to back up my photoshop-stuff and reformat. I want to see if I can break 2.7 with the DFI







.

The venice has better hardware soldered onto the mobo that allow for more stable voltages when pushing the overclocking envelope.

Edit: Not to mention this mobo was a limited supply of only 1000 world wide.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
What is it about the Venus that makes it better?

Nate, the Venus comes with solid aluminum electrolytic caps. They supposedly have a "unlimited" operational lifecycle as oppose to liquid electrolyte capacitors(which also tend to explode hence the bulging and leaking). Solid caps also don't suffer from wear out and dry out limitations.

Hope that clears that up


----------



## nategr8ns

wow sweet


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


wow sweet


Well I will tell you if it is a bitter sweet deal meaning it's truly dead or if it is a holy Macril, Robin I can't believe it's not butter deal meaning Woo Hoo it really works.

Any way I have a question for all the A8N32 SLI Deluxe mobo users.

What bios version has produced the best opteron overclocking results.

Also what is a normal max CPU FSB that this mobo can run effectively and still remain stable.

Last question what temperatures should I see in the bios for the motherboard in the power tab/hardware monitor screen.

thank you,

N2G


----------



## Blitz6804

pioneerisloud has found for him 1303 is the most stable BIOS. He has, to my knowledge, been able to stabilize an HTT of at least 334 MHz. I believe he was able to boot higher, but I do not recall if it were stable.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Last question what temperatures should I see in the bios for the motherboard in the power tab/hardware monitor screen.


N2Gaming, what temperatures are you currently seeing during idle and load? I would think anything in excess of 55C for the nForce 590 chipset would be high. The chipset is passively cooled so I wouldn't expect low temperatures.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks blitz, I think there may be something wrong w/this A8N32 becuase I can't get it to boot anything higher then 220-230 but then again it could be all my settings holding it back. I will loosen up my timmings and lower all my spds for ram and cpu and shoot for a max HTT to see what I come up with. My mobo temp sensor has a idle temp of 40C in the bios hardware monitor screen. So I may have to call ASUS just to see if the mobo still has a warranty left it just does not seem right that I can only get a little overclock on the FSB.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thanks blitz, I think there may be something wrong w/this A8N32 becuase I can't get it to boot anything higher then 220-230 but then again it could be all my settings holding it back. I will loosen up my timmings and lower all my spds for ram and cpu and shoot for a max HTT to see what I come up with. My mobo temp sensor has a idle temp of 40C in the bios hardware monitor screen. So I may have to call ASUS just to see if the mobo still has a warranty left it just does not seem right that I can only get a little overclock on the FSB.


can you change the nb thermal, maybe lap the hs on it?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


can you change the nb thermal, maybe lap the hs on it?


well I just booted to fsb 250 with a multi of 8 and ram divider of 200 while running DDR500 ram so I think it may just be a setting that my mobo and ram are not comfortable clocking. I will continue to push the fsb and let you all know what I find for a limit. I hope for the best.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Well I will tell you if it is a bitter sweet deal meaning it's truly dead or if it is a holy Macril, Robin I can't believe it's not butter deal meaning Woo Hoo it really works.

Any way I have a question for all the A8N32 SLI Deluxe mobo users.

What bios version has produced the best opteron overclocking results.

Also what is a normal max CPU FSB that this mobo can run effectively and still remain stable.

Last question what temperatures should I see in the bios for the motherboard in the power tab/hardware monitor screen.

thank you,

N2G


BIOS v. 1405. I believe it's listed as a Beta in some circles, but I have had this version almost from the time it came out. I have never had ANY problems.

Both of the A8N32-SLI Deluxes I've owned were able to do 340MHz+ on the reference clock. The original was superb, able to go 360MHz+. The replacement via RMA (the one currently in the sig rig) can do about ~350MHz (I can't recall precisely what the numbers are at the moment; I don't have my test notes here at work







). Both boards ran v. 1405; both also achieved these reference clock speeds with chipset overvolt enabled.

Hope this helps.


----------



## Blitz6804

That is the other thing. Pioneerisloud could use 1405 in Vista Ultimate x64 retail upwards of 3.1 GHz. However, Service Pack 1 made him unstable at any speed over 2.9 GHz. Rolling back to 1303 permitted him to again maintain stability at 3.1 GHz.

Joe uses XP, and is free of this.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


BIOS v. 1405. I believe it's listed as a Beta in some circles, but I have had this version almost from the time it came out. I have never had ANY problems.

Both of the A8N32-SLI Deluxes I've owned were able to do 340MHz+ on the reference clock. The original was superb, able to go 360MHz+. The replacement via RMA (the one currently in the sig rig) can do about ~350MHz (I can't recall precisely what the numbers are at the moment; I don't have my test notes here at work







). Both boards ran v. 1405; both also achieved these reference clock speeds with chipset overvolt enabled.

Hope this helps.










Thanks guys, I was able to post to a Refrence clock of 300 but when I shot for 325 no dice. I will try some other multipliers and see if it helps any. I could also have killed those DDR500 ballistix as you warned me about joe for I was not using any passibe cooling.


----------



## thlnk3r

Just to back up Joe here, my A8N-SLI (non-Deluxe) did 300HTT easy on stock chipset voltage so these boards are capable of it.

N2Gaming, perhaps a little tweaking and configuration may yield some higher numbers. It's possible that 220-230HTT could be a "FSB hole"









Keep testing if you can and we'll eventually find out.

Good luck


----------



## Hueristic

I'm thinking he's not getting good cooling on his nb.


----------



## thlnk3r

Sorry for the double post

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I could also have killed those DDR500 ballistix as you warned me about joe for I was not using any passibe cooling.


N2Gaming, I highly doubt that. IC's can handle high temperatures...you'd be surprised. How much Vdimm were you running through these puppies? High voltages is the only thing that I can think of that may have caused any damage.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Booooooo the OCN server was down again. It just got fixed yayee.

I was able to get to 310 max FSB. How ever I do think the ram is the limiting factor here.

I only use 2.8 stock volts to this ram but that don't mean if there is something defective on the mobo that the ram can't be overvolted does it. I set all the ram timings to auto and was able to achieve higher clocks the last fsb was 235


----------



## GuardianOdin

Ok guys, tell me why my DFI Expert won't post with 4 Gb of RAM. Orange slots it boots right up. If I add the other 2Gb's to the yellow slots it show 4 lights and a single beep every few seconds.


----------



## nategr8ns

does it work with the original two sticks in yellow?
what about just the new sticks in orange?

Also do a cmos reset (hard reset, with no power + battery pull). This is what got mine working when I couldn't get it to boot with two sticks when it worked with 1.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Ok guys, tell me why my DFI Expert won't post with 4 Gb of RAM. Orange slots it boots right up. If I add the other 2Gb's to the yellow slots it show 4 lights and a single beep every few seconds.

I wish I had four matched sticks of ram or well at least 2 pairs of identical matched pairs of ram to test and help you out w/that question. I have never had 4 matched pairs of ram for testing in any of my 939 rigs. I would suggest trying only two sticks in just the two yellow slots to see if you can even get the system to post using only the yellow slots and let us know if it works for you

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
does it work with the original two sticks in yellow?
what about just the new sticks in orange?

Also do a cmos reset (hard reset, with no power + battery pull). This is what got mine working when I couldn't get it to boot with two sticks when it worked with 1.

nate are you merged over to the DFI board or do you still want to keep it listed in your sig as in da closet???


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Ok guys, tell me why my DFI Expert won't post with 4 Gb of RAM. Orange slots it boots right up. If I add the other 2Gb's to the yellow slots it show 4 lights and a single beep every few seconds.

yup single beep is mem detect failing. clean the slots.


----------



## nategr8ns

hahaha, yeah well technically that board is still sitting








the new one is sitting too, I guess, but it works. I'm not migrated yet. I still want to reinstall windows but I guess I could transplant first and reformat later if problems pop up.
Would MSI sound software (I use it as a software equalizer, but it might control drivers or something too) mess stuff up because the DFI uses a different sound chip?
I think that's the only non-NF4 driver I have.


----------



## GuardianOdin

testing now, will post back in a few


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
hahaha, yeah well technically that board is still sitting








the new one is sitting too, I guess, but it works. I'm not migrated yet. I still want to reinstall windows but I guess I could transplant first and reformat later if problems pop up.
Would MSI sound software (I use it as a software equalizer, but it might control drivers or something too) mess stuff up because the DFI uses a different sound chip?
I think that's the only non-NF4 driver I have.

Well you can remove the sound card drivers before you migrate. The nic chips may be slightly different on the new board as well make sure you don't need to remove those before you migrate. What kind of nic chips are on the neo. Just trust me "take the green pill, red is too hot and blue takes you to the dark side.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Ok guys, tell me why my DFI Expert won't post with 4 Gb of RAM. Orange slots it boots right up. If I add the other 2Gb's to the yellow slots it show 4 lights and a single beep every few seconds.

GuardianOdin, just out of curiosity but is the jumper on JP17 (DRAM 4V) on the 2-3 position? Try out Nate's suggestion and see if just those two sticks of memory work in the Yellow dimm slots.

Good luck


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
GuardianOdin, just out of curiosity but is the jumper on JP17 (DRAM 4V) on the 2-3 position? Try out Nate's suggestion and see if just those two sticks of memory work in the Yellow dimm slots.

Good luck

Trying to find the manual right now to check.

Good news: The first Yellow slot is working fine with the first orange slot. I know the second orange slot works. I'll be testing the second yellow in a few.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Trying to find the manual right now to check.

Good news: The first Yellow slot is working fine with the first orange slot. I know the second orange slot works. I'll be testing the second yellow in a few.


GuardianOdin, disregard my request if it's working. The JP17 jumper is on the upper right corner of the motherboard. Sorry I should have mentioned that.

Did you clean the DIMM slots out to get it to work?

Good luck


----------



## Pest

N2Gaming, my A8NSLI-Deluxe (currently out for RMA) was running at a stable 300fbs when it died, with no chipset voltage increase. I was running BIOS 1405 and just left my DDR500 timings on auto with 2.9 volts.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pest*


N2Gaming, my A8NSLI-Deluxe (currently out for RMA) was running at a stable 300fbs when it died, with no chipset voltage increase. I was running BIOS 1405 and just left my DDR500 timings on auto with 2.9 volts.


Thanks Pest, Ah ha I did not confuse you w/Pez ya!!!!!!

I am running memtest ATM but my mobo for some reason will not run the ram at DDR500 speeds. I have the 1409 bios atm and will try my ddr400 OCZ ram next to see if I can get any better clocks w/this mobo. I really hope it's just a ram issue and not the mobo. Ram is much easier to replace. in any case I will let you all know my findings.

If any one should call ASUS and talk to Pattric ask to be transfered immediately or hang up and call back, that's all I'm gonna say about that. I love Asus but he does them no justice.

N2G


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


If any one should call ASUS and talk to Pattric ask to be transfered immediately or hang up and call back, that's all I'm gonna say about that. I love Asus but he does them no justice.

N2G






































:applau d:



































:baaasmi le


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


GuardianOdin, disregard my request if it's working. The JP17 jumper is on the upper right corner of the motherboard. Sorry I should have mentioned that.

Did you clean the DIMM slots out to get it to work?

Good luck


Ok found the manual. The manual as far as I can tell does not mention JP17 and physically there doesn't seem to be any jumper(s) in the upper right hand corner of the Mobo.

Ok here is where I am now.

Yellow(1) =Good
Yellow(1) Orange(1)=Good
Orange(1) Orange(2)= Good

Yellow(2) = currently testing
Yellow(1) Orange(1) Orange(2)= Not working together

*EDIT*: Ok I'm either being a real noob or blind. I can not find the JP17 jumper anywhere. I have found all the jumpers in the manual and what they relate to. There is what looks to be a USB set of pins near the bottom of the Mobo, that is the only place I think it could be, but there is no jumper connector thingy on it.....lost


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Ok found the manual. The manual as far as I can tell does not mention JP17 and physically there doesn't seem to be any jumper(s) in the upper right hand corner of the Mobo.

Ok here is where I am now.

Yellow(1) =Good
Yellow(1) Orange(1)=Good
Orange(1) Orange(2)= Good

Yellow(2) = currently testing
Yellow(1) Orange(1) Orange(2)= Not working together


GO the quickest way to see your voltage is in the bios. Your bios will tell you your running DRAM voltage which is yet another feature I love so much about DFI. Also your ram power selector is not the same as the sli dr model. I am looking at my expert mobo right now and the power jumpers available on the dfi NF4 SLI DR model are not available on the expert model. Hope this clears up any confusion.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


GO the quickest way to see your voltage is in the bios. Your bios will tell you your running DRAM voltage which is yet another feature I love so much about DFI. Also your ram power selector is not the same as the sli dr model. I am looking at my expert mobo right now and the power jumpers available on the dfi NF4 SLI DR model are not available on the expert model. Hope this clears up any confusion.


Where would the JP17 jumper be? I'm going to check my Volts now brb.


----------



## FatalityxZ

Hey guys. Haven't been in this thread for a while lol. Anyways heres my final result after overclocking. http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=530497
Some kinda good news.. my dad said if I get at least a 90 average on my report card (comes out on the 30th)..I can get whatever computer I want (within reasonable limits; no $1000 i7







) Fingers crossed. xD


----------



## Hueristic

N2 as soon as you get the Venus in can you boot it for me and pm me the results. I am dealing with the guy now and don't have much of a window in which to pay him. Also I may bid on an sli he has up for 2 days.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Any way I have a question for all the A8N32 SLI Deluxe mobo users.

What bios version has produced the best opteron overclocking results.

Also what is a normal max CPU FSB that this mobo can run effectively and still remain stable.

Last question what temperatures should I see in the bios for the motherboard in the power tab/hardware monitor screen.

thank you,

N2G


 N2, Im running the last _official_ BIOS. I believe its 1303. I tried the 1405 beta and for some reason it didnt agree with rig. Would get crashes every now and again for no reason @ stock speeds.
I was able to achieve 336Mhz reference clock, stable. As for temps, it really depends on your case cooling and your cpu cooler as well. I dont think I've EVER seen mine above 35*C. And if you dont have a top down cooler I'd imagine it would get pretty warm. When I had my Tornado on my stock opteron cooler the board would usually stay ~28/29*C.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Ok guys, tell me why my DFI Expert won't post with 4 Gb of RAM. Orange slots it boots right up. If I add the other 2Gb's to the yellow slots it show 4 lights and a single beep every few seconds.


 Odin, try booting it up with 1 stick at a time in the orange slot closest to the CPU. That way you can rule out one of the sticks being bad.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Odin, try booting it up with 1 stick at a time in the orange slot closest to the CPU. That way you can rule out one of the sticks being bad.



Did that, all sticks good. Going to test the second Yellow slot now and try and find the mysterious JP17 jumper


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Did that, all sticks good. Going to test the second Yellow slot now and try and find the mysterious JP17 jumper


forget the jp17 jumper it's not on your board. it is a sli dr feature. the expert uses better circuitry to replace the DRAM voltage Jumpers.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


N*2* as soon as you get the Venus in can you boot it for me and pm me the results.


UPS has an estimated delivery of next monday 03/23/09 so I will be sure to let you know when I get it if it even powers the chipset fans when I push the power button.

In other news today. I have successfully made it through a full pass of memtest-86 v3.4 with the crucial Ballistix DDR500 ram. I think these sticks don't agree with this mobo/or vise a versa. They are Apple Mac crapintiosh stix so that's what I get for using them in the first place. They do quite will in the DFI because the DFI has a better selection of ram dividers.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Did that, all sticks good. Going to test the second Yellow slot now and try and find the mysterious JP17 jumper


 I just went to DFI website to get the manual for your board and looked at the image. It doesn't appear that you board has this jumper. Looks to be some sort of EPROM chip where the jumper is supposed to be.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Ok, from the BIOS

ATX +3.3V=3.41V
ATX +5.0V=4.89V
ATX12V=12.09V
ATX5VSB+4.94V

My DRAM Voltage Control allows up to 4volts

Testing the second yellow slot now....again


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Ok, from the BIOS

ATX +3.3V=3.41V
ATX +5.0V=4.89V
ATX12V=12.09V
ATX5VSB+4.94V

My DRAM Voltage Control allows up to 4volts

Testing the second yellow slot now....again


no go into the hardware monitor screen it will give you your mobo temps and your running voltages. if the running voltage is not there then it's in the same screen that allows you to change your voltage.


----------



## nategr8ns

What drivers should I remove?
I can't find an uninstall function for the audio control







, I'm going to remove the sound drivers later. What about USB drivers, COM and LPT drivers, IDE drivers, "system devices" which is basically everything on the motherboard, whatever else?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


no go into the hardware monitor screen it will give you your mobo temps and your running voltages. if the running voltage is not there then it's in the same screen that allows you to change your voltage.


Heading there in a sec

Ok I have tested all the RAM sticks and all work properly.

Yellow(1) Posts correctly

Yellow(1) and Orange(1) Posts correctly

Orange(1) and Orange(2) Posts correctly

Any other configurations do not. Yellow(2) will not post with a single stick of RAM. So that slot is either bad or something else.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


What drivers should I remove?
I can't find an uninstall function for the audio control







, I'm going to remove the sound drivers later. What about USB drivers, COM and LPT drivers, IDE drivers, "system devices" which is basically everything on the motherboard, whatever else?


The easiers thing would be to make a back up disk and learn how to restore your system from a back up say in the event you have a hdd fail. This is the cheapest yet best solution that I can come up w/for you. If you do a clean install then you dont' have to worry about all that Oh wait scratch that if you restore from a back up you have to have all the drivers all ready loaded and if you do a clean install then you would not have them loaded. Sorry just trying to help.

Other sources say it will be warm and sunny all day out side locally but I think the A8N32 bit the bullet. I was looking at the mobo and it looks like there is a burned trace right in the middle of the mobo.

Edit:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Heading there in a sec

Ok I have tested all the RAM sticks and all work properly.

Yellow(1) Posts correctly

Yellow(1) and Orange(1) Posts correctly

Orange(1) and Orange(2) Posts correctly

Any other configurations do not. Yellow(2) will not post with a single stick of RAM. So that slot is either bad or something else.


did you try w/just both yellow 1 & 2 populated???


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I was looking at the mobo and it looks like there is a burned trace right in the middle of the mobo.

Which board is this? I can't seem to keep up with what board your on! Lol is this one you had running?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Which board is this? I can't seem to keep up with what board your on! Lol is this one you had running?

Yes this mobo is running. I was shooting for a high FSB and that is the last time it would post w/a high FSB I killed it.







but not completely. it will still post and run but ervery now and then the system will lock up in windows and I can't seem to get any decent overclock going. So I think I just killed the mobo after pushing the FSB to high.

I will have to go back several hundred pages and weed through all of off tippic post's to find my post w/regards to how high I tried to push it.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Edit:

did you try w/just both yellow 1 & 2 populated???

Yes, It works with Yellow(1) But It will not post with Yellow(2)

I starting to think Yellow(2) is a bad slot.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Yes this mobo is running. I was shooting for a high FSB and that is the last time it would post w/a high FSB I killed it.







but not completely. it will still post and run but ervery now and then the system will lock up in windows and I can't seem to get any decent overclock going. So I think I just killed the mobo after pushing the FSB to high.

I will have to go back several hundred pages and weed through all of off tippic post's to find my post w/regards to how high I tried to push it.

Well That burn(?) on the traces cannot have come from OC'ing your frequency. So maybe it was there before and you didn't notice or you had a voltage spike or a vrm failure.

If I were you i would remove the board take a meter and test the lines, vyou can do this by following the trace and getting the test points on the chips the trace goes to. I can also help you repair any trace if you want (did this for 6 months for GE).


----------



## Blitz6804

GuardianOdin: Have you tried cleaning the slot out with 90% or greater IPA and a folded coffee filter?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
GuardianOdin: Have you tried cleaning the slot out with 90% or greater IPA and a folded coffee filter?

I didn't clean then like that yet. I just blew into them and used a soft brush and lightly clean them out.

OK, as of right now it looks like 2Gb will work in the first two slots Yellow(1) and Orange(1) and 2Gb will work in both Orange slots.

3-4Gb will not post in any slots and the yellow(2) will not post in any manner. SO I do believe I may have a bad slot.

I will have to wait until Sunday to go any further. I have to work tonight and get some sleep. Thanks for all the help guys, If I didn't a rep to you yet, just let me know.

Blitz, I will clean that slot as suggested Sunday.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
If I didn't a rep to you yet, just let me know.

Blitz, I will clean that slot as suggested Sunday.

http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...ml#post5828091

I feel like my posts get skipped over alot or something?

I've only been repped by 2 people the entire time I've been posting in this thread?

Are my posts not helpful?


----------



## Blitz6804

Some motherboards will not operate at all with 3 GB. It not POSTing with 3 is not dispositive of a bad slot, but the fact that a sole DIMM or a pair in both yellow might be. Cleaning will be necessary to be sure. Make sure you give ample time after cleaning for the IPA to evaporate. 10-20 minutes should be fine.

EDIT: Not skipped over Hueristic; clarifying HOW the slots should be cleaned.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Yes, It works with Yellow(1) But It will not post with Yellow(2)

I starting to think Yellow(2) is a bad slot.

OK if you can not use both yellow slots populated at the same time then have you tried both sets of ram with both yellow slots populated. Also have you tried to change you ram voltage at all. you may be trying to use a set of ram timmings that are not good for your mobo ram cpu combo.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Well That burn(?) on the traces cannot have come from OC'ing your frequency. So maybe it was there before and you didn't notice or you had a voltage spike or a vrm failure.

If I were you i would remove the board take a meter and test the lines, vyou can do this by following the trace and getting the test points on the chips the trace goes to. I can also help you repair any trace if you want (did this for 6 months for GE).

I will see if Asus will issue RMA that is if it is still under warranty. If not then you know I will be hitting you up. So bassically your just saying to test the mobo w/o any power from one end of the trace all the way to the other w/a ohm meter to test for continuity. I do this some times w/a audio tone ohm meter to buzz when I have continuity. As far as the voltage is concerened I have no clue there buddy. I took the mobo out just to look at the front and back side and only the front side has that little burn mark. Also I took pictures of a scratch mark on the board and posted them a while back. At that time I gave the mobo a very thorough look over and this would have definatly caught my eye then as I would have returned the mobo instantly to the seller from ebay.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
GuardianOdin: Have you tried cleaning the slot out with 90% or greater IPA and a folded coffee filter?

I prefer tooth brush. coffee filters may leave little fibers behind when you are done. those fibers can be removed w/a tooth brush.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...ml#post5828091

I feel like my posts get skipped over alot or something?

I've only been repped by 2 people the entire time I've been posting in this thread?

Are my posts not helpful?

Sorry man, This thread grows to quick sometimes







But yes your post are helpful.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Some motherboards will not operate at all with 3 GB. It not POSTing with 3 is not dispositive of a bad slot, but the fact that a sole DIMM or a pair in both yellow might be. Cleaning will be necessary to be sure. Make sure you give ample time after cleaning for the IPA to evaporate. 10-20 minutes should be fine.

Well that makes me feel a bit better. I'll have to get some 90% alcohol. I only have 70% here now.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
OK if you can not use both yellow slots populated at the same time then have you tried both sets of ram with both yellow slots populated. Also have you tried to change you ram voltage at all. you may be trying to use a set of ram timmings that are not good for your mobo ram cpu combo.

I tried both set and null on both in the yellow slots.

I'm using Mushkin 2GB XP4000 Redline kits x2
I'm not sure of the proper timing for those since I just received them today. Ok off to bed so I'm not late for work lol.

I will check back later tonight. Thanks again guys.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Sorry man, This thread grows to quick sometimes







But yes your post are helpful.

Well that makes me feel a bit better. I'll have to get some 90% alcohol. I only have 70% here now.

I tried both set and null on both in the yellow slots.

I'm using Mushkin 2GB XP4000 Redline kits x2
I'm not sure of the proper timing for those since I just received them today. Ok off to bed so I'm not late for work lol. 
I will check back later tonight. Thanks again guys.


Well when you wake up and have time dial in the correct timmings and voltages into your bios. Then after you get it all dialed using the orange slots run a single pass of memtest with both matched sets of ram just to verify the mobo is not having any issues w/this ram. Do these sticks have serial numbers so that you don't mix the set's?

If they don't have serial numbers and you are mixing matched sets then that is the last and only thing I can think of that may be causing the issue out side of mobo problems.

EDIT: there is a few scattered clouds out there but for the most part it is a sunny day. That being said This is what I was able to do before my bios started acting all goofy.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Well when you wake up and have time dial in the correct timmings and voltages into your bios. Then after you get it all dialed using the orange slots run a single pass of memtest with both matched sets of ram just to verify the mobo is not having any issues w/this ram. Do these sticks have serial numbers so that you don't mix the set's?

If they don't have serial numbers and you are mixing matched sets then that is the last and only thing I can think of that may be causing the issue out side of mobo problems.

EDIT: there is a few scattered clouds out there but for the most part it is a sunny day. That being said This is what I was able to do before my bios started acting all goofy.



The RAM is matched with matching serial numbers. I got these off Pez


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


EDIT: Not skipped over Hueristic; clarifying HOW the slots should be cleaned.


It's ok I knew you weren't repeating me but clarifying the procedure you use.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


If not then you know I will be hitting you up. So bassically *your just saying to test the mobo w/o any power from one end of the trace all the way to the other w/a ohm meter to test for continuity.* I do this some times w/a audio tone ohm meter to buzz when I have continuity.


This is exactly how, and call me or post if you need a hand.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Sorry man, This thread grows to quick sometimes







But yes your post are helpful.












Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


That being said This is what I was able to do before my bios started acting all goofy.


Very nice, Was this better than your dfi results? How do the boards compare?


----------



## Blitz6804

Mighty ironic... I sold RAM to pez, and was holding another set for you. When you decided you did not want, I sold to pez. Now, he sold to you. When you are done you sell back to me? *Chuckles.*


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Mighty ironic... I sold RAM to pez, and was holding another set for you. When you decided you did not want, I sold to pez. Now, he sold to you. When you are done you sell back to me? *Chuckles.*


LOL, Actually I didn't pay for these. It's a trade off for building the PC for my friend. She is getting my DDR500 2Gbkit of GSkill. Call it blind mans luck or something


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


This is exactly how, and call me or post if you need a hand.


Thank you.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*









Very nice, Was this better than your dfi results? How do the boards compare?


I did not get enough time on the A8N32 to give it a decent shot at comparrisons. I had high hopes for it becuase of the x16 x x16 SLI ability.

with that being said I can tell you my likes and disslikes

lests start w/the *likes:*

1 A8N32 is able to run w/o chipset fans as it does not come w/any from factory. It has a heatpipe chipset cooler installed.

2 All the power connectors are on the outside edge of the mobo so you don't have a clutter of wires draped over other componants.

3 It has a Parralel port for my Samsung lazer printer ML-1740

4 True 16x by 16x SLI support

Now lets talk about the *Dislikes: *

1 The DFI mobo's have more ram dividers to choose from giving you a better selection come time to fine tune that overclock.

2 DFI has 4 bios memory banks to store your bios settings for stock, little over stock overclocked and monster overclocked or for settings of 4 differents sets of hardware. i.e. cpu,ram,vga etc you get the point.

3 DFI has superior audio built into the riser card where Asus has a built in audio directly on the mobo.

This is all that I can think of off the top of my head but there is many things I like and dislike about the Asus when compared to the DFI


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FatalityxZ*


Hey guys. Haven't been in this thread for a while lol. Anyways heres my final result after overclocking. http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=530497
Some kinda good news.. my dad said if I get at least a 90 average on my report card (comes out on the 30th)..I can get whatever computer I want (within reasonable limits; no $1000 i7







) Fingers crossed. xD


FatalityxZ, I've updated the roster with your new overclock. Good luck with the grades. I hope you can get yourself a new build going









N2Gaming, the burned out trace (as Hueristic mentioned) doesn't sound like it's related to overclocking but to a voltage issue (voltage spike, electronic noise). Did you by any chance play with the voltages a lot? Stupid question but your computer is not plugged directly into the wall is it?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Some motherboards will not operate at all with 3 GB. It not POSTing with 3 is not dispositive of a bad slot, but the fact that a sole DIMM or a pair in both yellow might be.


Blitz, good point made. My DFI will not post with three DIMMs populated.

Guardian, did you test that supposed "bad" dimm slot with several different types of memory?

Good luck guys


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, the burned out trace (as Hueristic mentioned) doesn't sound like it's related to overclocking but to a voltage issue (voltage spike, electronic noise). Did you by any chance play with the voltages a lot? Stupid question but your computer is not plugged directly into the wall is it?


Yes plugged directly into the wall







and I had two power outages two days in a row last week. I was running two pc's at a time and neither exibited any problems after the power failures. I can't remember if I was using the A8N32 during the power failures or not.

I say I think it is overclock related because I was able to achieve a 350 FSB no problem and then I shot for FSB of 400 for sheets N gigles and then the bios started having erratic behaviors. the bios would not navigate properly and bios features started to disappear when I tried to make the changes and then the bios started to freez up on me. So I upgraded the bios from 1303 to 1409 and it still does the same thing. I have not tried 1405 yet because it is not a bios version issue it is a failed hardware issue this I am sure. I can no longer get even any where close to the previously attainable overclocks.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thank you.









I did not get enough time on the A8N32 to give it a decent shot at comparrisons. I had high hopes for it becuase of the x16 x x16 SLI ability.

with that being said I can tell you my likes and disslikes

lests start w/the *likes:*

1 A8N32 is able to run w/o chipset fans as it does not come w/any from factory. It has a heatpipe chipset cooler installed.

2 All the power connectors are on the outside edge of the mobo so you don't have a clutter of wires draped over other componants.

3 It has a Parralel port for my Samsung lazer printer ML-1740

4 True 16x by 16x SLI support

Now lets talk about the *Dislikes: *

1 The DFI mobo's have more ram dividers to choose from giving you a better selection come time to fine tune that overclock.

2 DFI has 4 bios memory banks to store your bios settings for stock, little over stock overclocked and monster overclocked or for settings of 4 differents sets of hardware. i.e. cpu,ram,vga etc you get the point.

3 DFI has superior audio built into the riser card where Asus has a built in audio directly on the mobo.

This is all that I can think of off the top of my head but there is many things I like and dislike about the Asus when compared to the DFI


VERY nice N2, You should put this in the review section! and with all your spare boards if you want to give some away and do 3 reviews you can get into the freebie for a free NIB 24(?) LCD.









Also do both boards have bootgaurd? I love that on my asus boards! Getting to the cmos jumper is a serious chore these days.


----------



## nategr8ns

For some reason my CPU fan doesn't spin in BIOS. It moves a little bit, like there's not enough voltage, then it "springs" back (because of the magnets). In the BIOS, is there any way to disable the "CPUFan Turn OFF if CPUTEMP < x" option? The lowest temp is 25C, but I don't want the fan to fully turn off ever.
Current Core temp is 35*, but its slowly climbing.

I'm also kind of frustrated that I my cpu fan plug doesn't fit into the header on the mobo because of a cap in the way... I'm currently using a totally unnecessary cable extention that's just uglying up my computer







.

Yes, this does mean that the transplant is underway







.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Yes plugged directly into the wall







and I had two power outages two days in a row last week.


N2Gaming, it doesn't always happen but during a power outage electronic devices such as yours can experience a surge. You really should have these on some type of power conditioning device or at least a surge suppressor. Ug who knows whats wrong with your Asus board now







e:

Call up Asus and issue an RMA. I know they were really friendly with Joe on getting his RMA'ed.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


For some reason my CPU fan doesn't spin in BIOS. It moves a little bit, like there's not enough voltage, then it "springs" back (because of the magnets). In the BIOS, is there any way to disable the "CPUFan Turn OFF if CPUTEMP < x" option? The lowest temp is 25C, but I don't want the fan to fully turn off ever.
Current Core temp is 35*, but its slowly climbing.

I'm also kind of frustrated that I my cpu fan plug doesn't fit into the header on the mobo because of a cap in the way... I'm currently using a totally unnecessary cable extention that's just uglying up my computer







.


Nate, either the fan is off or on. I don't think it'll come on half speed depending on temperature (as far as I know).

In regards to the fan header, are you able to just move the cap aside? You can move caps slightly, it won't warm anything.

Good luck guys


----------



## nategr8ns

I tried moving it, but when I jammed the fan connector on it pushed the cap frighteningly far over, and I decided to play it safe.

I'm posting from my 939 rig now. Only one problem: No audio out of the green port.
I got sound out of the black port while testing in the driver software, so the whole karajan unit is not bad.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, it doesn't always happen but during a power outage electronic devices such as yours can experience a surge. You really should have these on some type of power conditioning device or at least a surge suppressor. Ug who knows whats wrong with your Asus board now







e:

Call up Asus and issue an RMA. I know they were really friendly with Joe on getting his RMA'ed.


I was under the impression that the better power supplies had built in surge suppressors and that would not be a problem with quality power supplies. I may be in the wrong here. In any case it never hurts to have that added protection of at least one surge suppressor that branches power off to all my other componants. You know that movie Christmas Story. When the dad has a million cables all plugged into one outlet. I'm guilty.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


I tried moving it, but when I jammed the fan connector on it pushed the cap frighteningly far over, and I decided to play it safe.

I'm posting from my 939 rig now. Only one problem: No audio out of the green port.
I got sound out of the black port while testing in the driver software, so the whole karajan unit is not bad.


Can you take a pic nate? You can remove the wires from the connector and mount them that way or trimm the connector with an exacto.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
I tried moving it, but when I jammed the fan connector on it pushed the cap frighteningly far over, and I decided to play it safe.

I'm posting from my 939 rig now. Only one problem: No audio out of the green port.
I got sound out of the black port while testing in the driver software, so the whole karajan unit is not bad.

try to open your sounds tab in your controll pannel and make sure you have all your volumes adjusted all the way up and then make sure the drivers are all there for the realtec ac97

Edit the cpu fan header is near the sound riser card. Hopefully you did not ruin the mobo for the sound card.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I was under the impression that the better power supplies had built in surge suppressors and that would not be a problem with quality power supplies.

N2Gaming, if you believe that then by all means keep your PC's directly plugged into the wall









On a serious note, I have never heard about that before. Perhaps there is some documentation that covers that?

Good luck


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
Only one problem: No audio out of the green port.
I got sound out of the black port while testing in the driver software, so the whole karajan unit is not bad.

Nate, sorry missed your post. Did you check in the device manager to see if anything is showing up as "Unknown Device"?

Good luck


----------



## nategr8ns

No unknown devices.
After a reboot, control panel recognized that I had a sound card. Before the reboot it didn't recognize that I had one, but windows media player did and could play (albeit without sound







). For some reason the audio program did not start, and I can't find the exe for it







.
I'm going to reinstall sound drivers anyway.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
No unknown devices.
After a reboot, control panel recognized that I had a sound card. Before the reboot it didn't recognize that I had one, but windows media player did and could play (albeit without sound







). For some reason the audio program did not start, and I can't find the exe for it







.
I'm going to reinstall sound drivers anyway.

Nate, have you tried playing a .wave file? Does it play successfully in Windows or is there an error message displayed?

Good luck


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, if you believe that then by all means keep your PC's directly plugged into the wall









On a serious note, I have never heard about that before. Perhaps there is some documentation that covers that?

Good luck

I think it's called a *Fuse*!









Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
No unknown devices.
After a reboot, control panel recognized that I had a sound card. Before the reboot it didn't recognize that I had one, but windows media player did and could play (albeit without sound







). For some reason the audio program did not start, and I can't find the exe for it







.
I'm going to reinstall sound drivers anyway.

AFA sound cards go whenever working on them make sure you have your volume turned all the way down on all amps especially if you are working on the connections when they are running (You can do this with any analog device) because a sudden surge on the op amps can blow them out. I used to make a few bucks replaceing op amps before cd connectors were standardized.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Nate, have you tried playing a .wave file? Does it play successfully in Windows or is there an error message displayed?

Good luck

Or go into control panel and see if there is a device under "sounds and audio devices" if the driver is not detected it will not show there.


----------



## nategr8ns

I uninstalled the driver again

It shows up, but still no sound. Do you guys think it would be possible to use the MSI drivers? The software that came with them is better than the DFI software.
I have not been able to change the sound output mode (i.e. 2 speaker setup vs 8 speaker setup) with the DFI software either.

NVM, found the same features with the NV software, not the realtek stuff. Weird, because these same functions/features were on the realtek software from MSI's site







.

Well I'm listening to music from my rear audio port with the soundcard in 4-speaker mode. With it in 5.1 and 7.1, I can hear my music from the rear, side, and center ports. I'm going to swap out this audio unit with the one from the other motherboard. If that doesn't work, I can use an old PCI audio card.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


I uninstalled the driver again

It shows up, but still no sound. Do you guys think it would be possible to use the MSI drivers? The software that came with them is better than the DFI software.
I have not been able to change the sound output mode (i.e. 2 speaker setup vs 8 speaker setup) with the DFI software either.


you may have to find the right nvidia drivers for the sound. I know a couple of the drivers on DFI's web page do not work.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Finally got some time to fit the opty on







Though I can't seem to have a stable oc at any way














The best I got is 3GHz that is with 250x12 @ 1.56v, DDR @214MHz (DDR428), HTT 1GHz. This setting is folding stable, gaming stable but I get temps above 55celsius which I don't like at all and also Orthos halts on calculation errors. This time I'm running at 2.873GHz @ 1.375v, DDR @ 221MHz (DDR442), HTT 1,1GHz which is also folding and gaming stable but not Orthos (halts also on calculation errors :swearing







and of course cpu is cooler below 50celsius...


The opty


The 40mm fans. Those keep cool the NB and mosfets.


Current state of oc


3GHz and superPI calculation

So you mates have anything to suggest? I'd really like to get a 3GHz stable.. What I'm gonna do for sure is have the shink lapped to lower the temps.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


Finally got some time to fit the opty on







Though I can't seem to have a stable oc at any way














The best I got is 3GHz that is with 250x12 @ 1.56v, DDR @214MHz (DDR428), HTT 1GHz. This setting is folding stable, gaming stable but I get temps above 55celsius which I don't like at all and also Orthos halts on calculation errors. This time I'm running at 2.873GHz @ 1.375v, DDR @ 221MHz (DDR442), HTT 1,1GHz which is also folding and gaming stable but not Orthos (halts also on calculation errors :swearing







and of course cpu is cooler below 50celsius...


The opty


The 40mm fans. Those keep cool the NB and mosfets.


Current state of oc


3GHz and superPI calculation

So you mates have anything to suggest? I'd really like to get a 3GHz stable.. What I'm gonna do for sure is have the shink lapped to lower the temps.


that last bit kind of reminds me of sheep for some reason







and no before any one ask's I'm not a hillbillly ******* or reletive/sheep sleeping w/kinda guy.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


Finally got some time to fit the opty on







Though I can't seem to have a stable oc at any way














The best I got is 3GHz that is with 250x12 @ 1.56v, DDR @214MHz (DDR428), HTT 1GHz. This setting is folding stable, gaming stable but I get temps above 55celsius which I don't like at all and also Orthos halts on calculation errors. This time I'm running at 2.873GHz @ 1.375v, DDR @ 221MHz (DDR442), HTT 1,1GHz which is also folding and gaming stable but not Orthos (halts also on calculation errors :swearing







and of course cpu is cooler below 50celsius...


MikeV_E36, for the 250HTT*12x OC, 55C full load looks about right for 1.56volts. I wouldn't expect any lower unless you decide to jump on H2O. Have you tried dropping the memory divider to bring the frequency below stock? This is in regards to both 3Ghz and 2.87Ghz overclocks.

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


Finally got some time to fit the opty on







Though I can't seem to have a stable oc at any way














The best I got is 3GHz that is with 250x12 @ 1.56v, DDR @214MHz (DDR428), HTT 1GHz. This setting is folding stable, gaming stable but I get temps above 55celsius which I don't like at all and also Orthos halts on calculation errors. This time I'm running at 2.873GHz @ 1.375v, DDR @ 221MHz (DDR442), HTT 1,1GHz which is also folding and gaming stable but not Orthos (halts also on calculation errors :swearing







and of course cpu is cooler below 50celsius...

3GHz and superPI calculation

So you mates have anything to suggest? I'd really like to get a 3GHz stable.. What I'm gonna do for sure is have the sink lapped to lower the temps.


 This is the exact reason I stopped using Orthos. Instead I use S&M V1.9.1(3/4 way down the page). I've found it to be a more reliable test. While by no means is it the end all, be all test, it's simply 1 more tool to use to check your overclock. If it's folding stable, S&M stable, Superpi and 3dmark stable, its a pretty safe bet that your OC is stable.

What are you using to monitor CPU temp? I hope its not PCprobe. It measures IHS temps and not core temps. which can vary as much as 20*C in my experience. If you don't have it already, get coretemp.

As for attaining 3ghz, cooling is going to be your biggest concern. While my 180 will run @ 2900MHz with stock voltage, I need to up the voltage considerably to get it 3000MHz. IMO, the temps associated with the marginal improvement in performance is not worth it.

1 more thing, have you tried lowering the multiplier and upping the reference clock(FSB)?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


As for attaining 3ghz, cooling is going to be your biggest concern. While my 180 will run @ 2900MHz with stock voltage, I need to up the voltage considerably to get it 3000MHz. IMO, the temps associated with the marginal improvement in performance is not worth it.


BlackOmega, about what temperature did you start noticing instability? Around 62C-64C is when my machine would lock up during testing. This was with 1.34volts on a tiny XP-90C with 26C room ambients. I would imagine MikeV would be fine around 55C but then again not all of these processors are the same









Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

To be honest, I'm amazed that MikeV's temps are only hitting 55 degs C (is this temperature at the cores or at the IHS level) at that VCore, at that CPU frequency. Especially if his chip's unmodified (not lapped or topless) and is on air cooling, and if this is indeed a core-level temperature reading.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, about what temperature did you start noticing instability? Around 62C-64C is when my machine would lock up during testing. This was with 1.34volts on a tiny XP-90C with 26C room ambients. I would imagine MikeV would be fine around 55C but then again not all of these processors are the same









Good luck

Actually, there isn't any instability @ 3003 MHz. It's the temps that were more of my concern. At 2900 the temps stay ~ 60*C (FPU test). At 3003MHz with the higher voltage (cant recall off the top of my head) the temps would get to 65*C relatively quickly. So I'd imagine that with a sustained load it would easily exceed that, which is out of my comfort zone for 24/7 use. But, this is also with my XP120 which appears to be not so great in the cooling dept. (might lap it just for :turd:'s and giggles) My lapped BT seems to do fairly well, but I've got the hold down bracket on my CFX board at the moment.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Have you tried dropping the memory divider to bring the frequency below stock? This is in regards to both 3Ghz and 2.87Ghz overclocks.

Good luck









I've tested oc with relaxed mem frequency and timings so I'm pretty sure it isn't the mem that's limiting me.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
What are you using to monitor CPU temp? I hope its not PCprobe. It measures IHS temps and not core temps. which can vary as much as 20*C in my experience. If you don't have it already, get coretemp.

As for attaining 3ghz, cooling is going to be your biggest concern. While my 180 will run @ 2900MHz with stock voltage, I need to up the voltage considerably to get it 3000MHz. IMO, the temps associated with the marginal improvement in performance is not worth it.

1 more thing, have you tried lowering the multiplier and upping the reference clock(FSB)?

I'm using Lavalys Everest for the temps. Going from 2876 to 3000 is remarkably faster. Win load faster, games play faster. About the last you ask, what do you mean? I've dropped the multi down to 12x and upped the fsb to 250 to get the 3GHz.

At this time I'm trying to figure out what my next step will be. Surely I don't want the cpu to be volted at 1.56v, I don't feel safe using it 24/7.

Ah and about the temps.. I said I get temps above 55c not 55 max







I mean that while gaming or folding I've seen temps hitting 55c-60c but this could not be considered full load as orthos or ccpt won't run for long before they both crash on logical errors


----------



## Blitz6804

MikeV_E36: I am having that problem too, albeit with a different CPU. No matter what I try doing (STOCK!) OCCT and Prime95 x64 v 25.8 have a core die for calculation/rounding errors. Strangely, it passes S&M's FPU test. I guess I am going to need to run a full test in the near future and/or RMA my CPU.

EDIT: It might actually be the RAM. I changed it down a divider, and now it passes OCCT sans incident.

And Joe: Perhaps you would be interested in replacing Orthos Single-Core / Dual-Core with Prime95 x32 v 25.8 and x64 v 25.8? Both can be run on any number of cores and the 64-bit version can use more memory than Orthos.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


MikeV_E36: I am having that problem too, albeit with a different CPU. No matter what I try doing (STOCK!) OCCT and Prime95 x64 v 25.8 have a core die for calculation/rounding errors. Strangely, it passes S&M's FPU test. I guess I am going to need to run a full test in the near future and/or RMA my CPU.


That's a good suggestion. I'll try running OCCT and Orthos on stock and see what happens.. If the cpu is proven faulty would AMD be able to replace it?? It's been out of stock for pretty much time.


----------



## Blitz6804

Since it is an OEM, no. You need to go to the seller. If it were a PIB, then it is AMD's issue.

Thlnk3r: You are vindicated. You always say run Memtest86+ with tests 5 and 8 looping; I would usually just run a single pass of all tests. Well, I did so, and picked up 2 errors on test 8. For fun, I figured I would let it loop a few times. Good thing I did! I picked up another 6 errors on test 5. I think it is safe to say that Newegg certainly should not have a problem issuing a replacement. I already have an RMA number.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Actually, there isn't any instability @ 3003 MHz. It's the temps that were more of my concern. At 2900 the temps stay ~ 60*C (FPU test). At 3003MHz with the higher voltage (cant recall off the top of my head) the temps would get to 65*C relatively quickly. So I'd imagine that with a sustained load it would easily exceed that, which is out of my comfort zone for 24/7 use. But, this is also with my XP120 which appears to be not so great in the cooling dept. (might lap it just for :turd:'s and giggles) My lapped BT seems to do fairly well, but I've got the hold down bracket on my CFX board at the moment.






































:applaud :

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Since it is an OEM, no. You need to go to the seller. If it were a PIB, then it is AMD's issue.

Thlnk3r: You are vindicated. You always say run Memtest86+ with tests 5 and 8 looping; I would usually just run a single pass of all tests. Well, I did so, and picked up 2 errors on test 8. For fun, I figured I would let it loop a few times. Good thing I did! I picked up another 6 errors on test 5. I think it is safe to say that Newegg certainly should not have a problem issuing a replacement. I already have an RMA number.


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Since it is an OEM, no. You need to go to the seller. If it were a PIB, then it is AMD's issue.


Fortunatelly the invoice I have says PIB so it's an AMD issue


----------



## Blitz6804

Ah; but do you have the stock HSF that comes with a typical PIB?


----------



## MikeV_E36

Well no... But would this be essential to get an RMA? Since only the CPU is faulty I think they need only the CPU in return...


----------



## Blitz6804

I do not know; I have never had to return a PIB to AMD. They might have their return policy on the website.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


Well no... But would this be essential to get an RMA? Since only the CPU is faulty I think they need only the CPU in return...


Sorry mike been swamped, can you link me to the post where you feel you have a bad cpu. Have you tried another cpu to make sure you don't get the same failure?


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Sorry mike been swamped, can you link me to the post where you feel you have a bad cpu. Have you tried another cpu to make sure you don't get the same failure?


We're talking about the case that I get orthos and occt calculation errors. I haven't tested the system's stability in stock yet. I'm sure it is stable with my 4200+ tested it many many times.. I'll be doing the stock tests and let you know.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


We're talking about the case that I get orthos and occt calculation errors. I haven't tested the system's stability in stock yet. I'm sure it is stable with my 4200+ tested it many many times.. I'll be doing the stock tests and let you know.


K, that is very unusual. If it happens at stock.


----------



## nategr8ns

Good luck on the stock tests Mike.

Update on my sound: I swapped out the Karajan units. The Ebay one, albeit dusty, works (at least front speakers, haven't tested any other ports yet). One thing I notice is that in the 10 pins on the unit itself (2x5), there were two jumpers. Joe, your unit did not have any jumpers. Does anybody know what these pins do?


----------



## Blitz6804

They are found on most motherboards. You use the pins for front panel connectors, and in the absence of them, you need to shunt two pairs pins or the back audio port wont work. I will find which ones for you.

EDIT: Shunt 5/6 and 9/10. Pin 8 should be a hole.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Good luck on the stock tests Mike.

Update on my sound: I swapped out the Karajan units. The Ebay one, albeit dusty, works (at least front speakers, haven't tested any other ports yet). One thing I notice is that in the 10 pins on the unit itself (2x5), there were two jumpers. Joe, your unit did not have any jumpers. Does anybody know what these pins do?


Nate, I don't know what those pins do, to be honest. When I ran that board I never used to Karajan unit (I have a few sound cards in my collection of spares and ran an old Creative SoundBlaster before I sold that card to a client).

I'd check the board's manual for the pins' functions.

Good luck.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Good luck on the stock tests Mike.

Update on my sound: I swapped out the Karajan units. The Ebay one, albeit dusty, works (at least front speakers, haven't tested any other ports yet). One thing I notice is that in the 10 pins on the unit itself (2x5), there were two jumpers. Joe, your unit did not have any jumpers. Does anybody know what these pins do?


That Karajan sound module is only capable of using 1 of 2 options.

option 1 default is the rear audio ports.

Option 2 is for the front audio port.

Some of those boards came w/a Front X for using usb, firewire, front sound and mic, 1394 etc. So you have to make sure you have the correct jumpers to be able to use the rear ports. Word of wisdom here. Don't try to use both front and rear at the same time as the manual clearly warns against this.

Hope this helps,

N2G


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


They are found on most motherboards. You use the pins for front panel connectors, and in the absence of them, you need to shunt two pairs pins or the back audio port wont work. I will find which ones for you.

EDIT: Shunt 5/6 and 9/10. Pin 8 should be a hole.


Ok, those are the pins shorted on the ebay one. Thanks


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Blitz and N2G, GREAT info on the Karajan audio modules for the DFI LANParty UT motherboards.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Thlnk3r: You are vindicated. You always say run Memtest86+ with tests 5 and 8 looping; I would usually just run a single pass of all tests. Well, I did so, and picked up 2 errors on test 8. For fun, I figured I would let it loop a few times. Good thing I did! I picked up another 6 errors on test 5. I think it is safe to say that Newegg certainly should not have a problem issuing a replacement. I already have an RMA number.


Blitz, I appreciate the comment. I actually learned from Joe that tests 5 and 8 are a bit more intensive then the default tests. I too had test 5 find an error on a stick of memory that the default loop didn't catch. Glad you found the problem with your PhII setup.

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Ok fellas got a new problem. Since I sold my A8N and my opty 165, I put my CFX board back together using my delided 3500+, BT, 4x512 HyperX, Antec sp500 and 1 of my 6800's.
When I power it up, it doesn't even POST. On the debug LED it just says " -8". I tried pulling all the RAM but 1 stick and nothing, same code.
The only thing that I can think of is the 8pin power connector. The Antec only has a 4pin, according to the manual I can still use it instead of an 8pin one.

Any ideas?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Ok fellas got a new problem. Since I sold my A8N and my opty 165, I put my CFX board back together using my delided 3500+, BT, 4x512 HyperX, Antec sp500 and 1 of my 6800's.
When I power it up, it doesn't even POST. On the debug LED it just says " -8". I tried pulling all the RAM but 1 stick and nothing, same code. 
The only thing that I can think of is the 8pin power connector. The Antec only has a 4pin, according to the manual I can still use it instead of an 8pin one.


BlackOmega, have you tried POSTing the board out of the case to eliminate any grounding issues? Leave everything else disconnected except the essentials. Have you attempted to clear the CMOS? I'm sure that is a obvious one but I had to ask









Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, have you tried POSTing the board out of the case to eliminate any grounding issues? Leave everything else disconnected except the essentials. Have you attempted to clear the CMOS? I'm sure that is a obvious one but I had to ask









Good luck


This is the first question that comes to mind. Have you ever been able to post and boot up using this mobo? or has it just been sitting ever since you got it???

Sorry I did not try to help earlier. I don't have any experience w/that mobo. Some things I could think of is do you have the mobo speaker jumper selected to give you a beep code. have you tried to get beep codes w/o any ram installed. just the cpu and mobo. If you have a power supply w/all 8 pins then have you tried that psu to see if it makes a difference?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Sorry I did not try to help earlier. I don't have any experience w/that mobo. Some things I could think of is do you have the mobo speaker jumper selected to give you a beep code. have you tried to get beep codes w/o any ram installed. just the cpu and mobo. If you have a power supply w/all 8 pins then have you tried that psu to see if it makes a difference?


N2Gaming, even though you don't own the board you still asked excellent questions


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, even though you don't own the board you still asked excellent questions










Thank you, I try.







Some times I over think things to the point of going nutz so I'm glad you are the great one w/the name thlnk3r









EDIT: just been here for most of the night trying to figure out the best settings for COD4...


----------



## AmgMake

I just ditched my S939 build a few weeks ago when my MSI K8N Neo died, it was with X2 [email protected] Turned out to be the nForce chip failure, there were some nice bubbles in the PCB when took out the HS.

The CPU-Z validation link


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Ok fellas got a new problem. Since I sold my A8N and my opty 165, I put my CFX board back together using my delided 3500+, BT, 4x512 HyperX, Antec sp500 and 1 of my 6800's.
When I power it up, it doesn't even POST. On the debug LED it just says " -8". I tried pulling all the RAM but 1 stick and nothing, same code.
The only thing that I can think of is the 8pin power connector. The Antec only has a 4pin, according to the manual I can still use it instead of an 8pin one.

Any ideas?

What's the CFX board you're reffering to? I've googling it but can't find it







And the 8pin power connector? Do you mean the one that voltages the CPU? Can you try with an other psu to rule that out?

About my stability problem, I ran orthos at stock and fortunately I got no calculation errors. So the opty isn't defective. Then I totally relaxed mem freq and timings and HTT link freq and raised the fsb to see what I can get. I raised the cpu freq in steps of 100MHz to have a quick peek about what is happening. I could run stable OCCT @2.8GHz at stock voltage. And have gotten up to 2.924GHz @1.5volts OCCT and orthos stable. So today I want to find the freq that is between 2.8GHz and 2.9GHz that is stable at stock voltage. I'll be pushing beyond 2.924GHz as soon as I get my tru-120x lapped. There must be air trapped at the base, giving me large deltas (about 10celsius) at load temps.

Edit:
No matter what I try with sitting and paste setting on HFS I can't eliminate the deltas







I sitted a blade on the base, can see hell lot of gaps...


----------



## Blitz6804

BlackOmega: As thlnk3r, GuardianOdin, and many more can attest, DFIs are EXTREMELY picky about their power supplies. As has been said, if you can, try it with a PSU that has 8 pins. Make sure also that you have all supplemental power connectors on the board. I am too lazy to look up the board now, but that means any floppy connectors or molex connectors on the motherboard should be populated for maximum effect.

I think it might be time to lap MikeV_E36. For me, lapping was a two hour process; ThermalRight is notorious for having out-of-lap heat sinks. I believe I posted the log in here once before, I'll find it for you when I have less tabs open.

AmgMake: Welcome aboard as a nostalgic member! I will add you to the off-site roster when I have a chance. This goes as well for the new OCs by simfreak47 and FatalityxZ.

N2Gaming: I've owned all of two Skt 939 boards, neither of them mainstream. Never even seen an nF4 in person. Does that stop me? NOPE! Why should it stop you?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Very true on the PSU's Blitz. I can't remember on the Ultra-D, but the Expert really does require the 8-pin power connector with the 24-pin power connector. I notice a much more stable system with the 8-pin. I do believe the 8-pin power connector replaces the normal 4-pin on the Expert Mobo.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, have you tried POSTing the board out of the case to eliminate any grounding issues? Leave everything else disconnected except the essentials. Have you attempted to clear the CMOS? I'm sure that is a obvious one but I had to ask









Good luck


 I'll have to try POSTing it outside of the case. At first I didn't try clearing the CMOS because I haven't OCed anything on it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


This is the first question that comes to mind. Have you ever been able to post and boot up using this mobo? or has it just been sitting ever since you got it???

Sorry I did not try to help earlier. I don't have any experience w/that mobo. Some things I could think of is do you have the mobo speaker jumper selected to give you a beep code. have you tried to get beep codes w/o any ram installed. just the cpu and mobo. If you have a power supply w/all 8 pins then have you tried that psu to see if it makes a difference?


 I know this board works. I had my opty180 on it for a time. No point in beep codes, this thing has a debug LED on it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


What's the CFX board you're reffering to? I've googling it but can't find it







And the 8pin power connector? Do you mean the one that voltages the CPU? Can you try with an other psu to rule that out?
.


 DFI CFX 3200 DR/G. And according to the manual I should be able to use just a 4pin.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


BlackOmega: As thlnk3r, GuardianOdin, and many more can attest, DFIs are EXTREMELY picky about their power supplies. As has been said, if you can, try it with a PSU that has 8 pins. Make sure also that you have all supplemental power connectors on the board. I am too lazy to look up the board now, but that means any floppy connectors or molex connectors on the motherboard should be populated for maximum effect.


 Looks Like Im going to have to do some re-arranging. Taking the PCPnC PSU(has an 8pin) out of the CM590 would be a chore. I think it might be easier just to swap the boards out. Think I might try RAID 0 on it.









Thanx for all your input guys.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Very true on the PSU's Blitz. I can't remember on the Ultra-D, but the Expert really does require the 8-pin power connector with the 24-pin power connector. I notice a much more stable system with the 8-pin. I do believe the 8-pin power connector replaces the normal 4-pin on the Expert Mobo.


 The Ultra D has a 4 pin this is the CFX 3200.


----------



## Hueristic

Using a 4 pin is better than using a 4 to 8 pin adapter. as the adapter will cause resistance.

I'm using a 4 pin on my tyan with no issues whatsoever.


----------



## Blitz6804

BlackOmega: As Joe can tell you, that is the pickiest motherboard ever made. Have you tried putting in the CPU solely, not GPU or RAM, clearing the CMOS, and pushing the power button? What LED code appears?


----------



## thlnk3r

I'm not particularly knowledgeable when it comes to the CFX3200 but I'm sure there was a reason why DFI went with a 8-pin as oppose to a 4-pin power connector. If I could I would check out the manual but apparently DFI's website isn't working for me









Omega, what does the manual say in regards to the 8-pin power connector?

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

MikeV_E36:

My lapping log:
Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Part 5
Part 6

Good luck buddy! </thlnk3r>


----------



## N2Gaming

I'd like to know what the LED code -8 means.

does this help any ? http://www.phoenix.com/NR/rdonlyres/...0/postcode.pdf

http://www.csd.dficlub.org/forum/showthread.php?t=729

http://www.csd.dficlub.org/forum/arc...php/t-729.html


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


MikeV_E36:

My lapping log:
Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Part 5
Part 6

Good luck buddy! </thlnk3r>


NICE! I used the DA last week and used 150 and 220 on my old 3200+ and Got the OC from 230HTT to 300HTT! But I am modding a hs (again) to try to keep the temps down and had to drop the multi to 8. will push farther when I get the heat under control.
BTW this is on my hybrid asrock with 2 512 mismatched value ram in single mode!!!!!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I'd like to know what the LED code -8 means.

does this help any ? http://www.phoenix.com/NR/rdonlyres/...0/postcode.pdf


I prefer beep codes. They are standardized. I'll be damned if I'm gonna search the net for every manufacturer that wants to make up a bunch of numbers







!


----------



## Blitz6804

Indeed; one long buzz is "you don't have a BIOS anymore dummy!" That was one I did not like hearing.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Indeed; one long buzz is "you don't have a BIOS anymore dummy!" That was one I did not like hearing.


Yup I got that one last night and the poor little guy "mobo" was crying to change him back to settings he can live with.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Indeed; one long buzz is "you don't have a BIOS anymore dummy!" That was one I did not like hearing.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Yup I got that one last night and the poor little guy "mobo" was crying to change him back to settings he can live with.





















































:l achen:


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*












































:l achen:

















Funny now but he "mobo" did not think so last night.

Omega,

Is it possible you have a bad keyboard?


----------



## Pest

N2Gaming, I suppose you found the same DFI list of error codes that I did.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pest*


N2Gaming, I suppose you found the same DFI list of error codes that I did.


Pest it kind of looks that way.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Omega, what does the manual say in regards to the 8-pin power connector?

Good luck


 Heres the page from the manual.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Omega,

Is it possible you have a bad keyboard?


 Its possible, but highly unlikely. Im using an old dell KB. I had it hooked up to my NF4 machine right along with my Saitek and they both work just fine on it.


----------



## Blitz6804

How? Via USB or PS/2?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


How? Via USB or PS/2?



The dell KB is PS/2 and the Saitek is USB.


----------



## nuklearwax

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Its possible, but highly unlikely. Im using an old dell KB. I had it hooked up to my NF4 machine right along with my Saitek and they both work just fine on it.


 I had an 8pin connector on my PSU that used but I'm starting to wonder if I'm using one ment for an 8 pin PCI-e graphics card. Would that matter? BlackOmega My CFX 3200UT wouldn't boot at first either untill I removed the CMOS battery to clear the BIOS. After that it booted with no problems.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes; the pinout is different on an ETX versus a PCI-E connector. Do not mix them.

BlackOmega: Can you POST without the keyboard installed?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Yes; the pinout is different on an ETX versus a PCI-E connector. Do not mix them.

BlackOmega: Can you POST without the keyboard installed?


 Ill check.

EDIT: Nope now the "-" is gone and it just throws an 8 code. Im starting to assume that it trying to tell me to hook up a 8 pin connector and get the 4 pin one out.


----------



## Hueristic

All the 12v should be on one side and the grnd's on the other.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nuklearwax*


I had an 8pin connector on my PSU that used but I'm starting to wonder if I'm using one ment for an 8 pin PCI-e graphics card. Would that matter? BlackOmega My CFX 3200UT wouldn't boot at first either untill I removed the CMOS battery to clear the BIOS. After that it booted with no problems.


 tried that already. No change. I gonna wind up swapping the boards in the cases so I can use the PCPnC PSU. The CFX3200 will probably wind up being my main rig. 
Nuke, does your board have the freezing/locking up problem?


----------



## nuklearwax

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Yes; the pinout is different on an ETX versus a PCI-E connector. Do not mix them.

NUTZ!! Your right but I just looked at my PSU manual and it comes with a 8pin CPU connector too. I thought they were keyed different so one wouldn't be able to get them mixed up. I'll need to check to see if I've got the right one pluged in when i get home. I've been running it for about a month with no problems so maybe I got it right to begin with.


----------



## nuklearwax

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
tried that already. No change. I gonna wind up swapping the boards in the cases so I can use the PCPnC PSU. The CFX3200 will probably wind up being my main rig.
Nuke, does your board have the freezing/locking up problem?

It's only locked up once since I got my OC stable. Other then that I haven't had any issues.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nuklearwax* 
I had an 8pin connector on my PSU that used but I'm starting to wonder if I'm using one ment for an 8 pin PCI-e graphics card. Would that matter? BlackOmega My CFX 3200UT wouldn't boot at first either untill I removed the CMOS battery to clear the BIOS. After that it booted with no problems.




nuklearwax said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *blitz6804*
> Yes; the pinout is different on an ETX versus a PCI-E connector. Do not mix them.QUOTE] NUTZ!! Your right but I just looked at my PSU manual and it comes with a 8pin CPU connector too. I thought they were keyed different so one wouldn't be able to get them mixed up. I'll need to check to see if I've got the right one pluged in when i get home. I've been running it for about a month with no problems so maybe I got it right to begin with.
> 
> LOL, don't worry about it! If you plugged the 12v into a gnd then you would have known immediately! and visa versa.


----------



## Blitz6804

As Hueristic said, PCI-E is 4 +12V, 4 grounds. An ETX is 3 +12V, 3 grounds, and 2 signals. This is why the plugs are such that they do not fit into each others sockets.


----------



## N2Gaming

nuklearwax said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *blitz6804*
> Yes; the pinout is different on an ETX versus a PCI-E connector. Do not mix them.QUOTE] NUTZ!! Your right but I just looked at my PSU manual and it comes with a 8pin CPU connector too. I thought they were keyed different so one wouldn't be able to get them mixed up. I'll need to check to see if I've got the right one pluged in when i get home. I've been running it for about a month with no problems so maybe I got it right to begin with.
> 
> I know with my TT Tough Power 700w PSU I have a red connector on the pcie 8 pin and a black connector for the mobo connector. I never checked to see if the pin configuration is any different. That is something worth checking into. Let us know when you get home.


----------



## nuklearwax

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
As Hueristic said, PCI-E is 4 +12V, 4 grounds. An ETX is 3 +12V, 3 grounds, and 2 signals. This is why the plugs are such that they do not fit into each others sockets.

So they are keyed differently. Kool Thanks Gents. I was getting worried there.


----------



## nuklearwax

Here's the pdf link of my PSU. Go to page 6 and it shows the difference between the two but i can't tell if they're keyed different. http://Xigmatek NRP-M Manual


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nuklearwax* 
Here's the pdf link of my PSU. Go to page 7 and it shows the difference between the two but i can't tell if they're keyed different. http://Xigmatek NRP-M Manual


Page 6 actually, and yes they're different.


----------



## N2Gaming

HI every one. I'm just taking it slow and easy today. I have been stripping the A8N32 SLI Deluxe in preperation for returning it to the seller. It turns out the warranty on the mobo expired amost to the day that I bought it. I am not going to spend good money on a mobo that I can't use to it's fullest or possibly even worse will end up damaging my other componants. i.e. cpu ram video card psu etc. So I got a paypal claim going. Just a little FYI in the event you purchase something and it is not what the listing claims. You have 45 days to stake a claim w/the seller and return the merchandise for a full refund. That is PalPal terms and agreements for buyers safety. We all know there is a lot of people who dump a lot of defective merchandise on to others through ebay. The mobo has a manufacture defect and would have been covered by the warranty if it had not expired right when I bought it. :swearing:

Edit: I'm putting all the parts into my Expert board and will be tinkering w/that thing find the best settings and to learn how to flash the bios for the Venice that I should recieve on moday.


----------



## Blitz6804

N2Gaming: A "Venice" is a single-core CPU. A "Venus" is a motherboard. Please stop mixing the two, you keep confusing me.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


N2Gaming: A "Venice" is a single-core CPU. A "Venus" is a motherboard. Please stop mixing the two, you keep confusing me.


Sorry buddy, I am ditsy that way.







I just realized last night that thlnk3r was spelled w/a L not an I.









So hows about I put my naked Venice in the Venus For testing When it arrives?







I will do my very best not to confuse you any more.


----------



## Blitz6804

You'll need to try hard... it does not take much to confuse me methinks.


----------



## N2Gaming

OK will do...


----------



## BlackOmega

Well after doing some rearranging, I've got er working. Need to update my system now.
Gonna mes with some ocing while I put my other one together.









Validation


----------



## Blitz6804

Congrats on getting her running. I take it you were fortunate enough to have a working ULi M1575?


----------



## BlackOmega

So far so good. The ULI on this board is "kind of" defective. Last time I had her working it would freeze once after initial startup then never freeze again.
For the time being Im running it off of my IDE HDD. I need to back up some files on my 2 RE16 WD's and Im going to _hopefully_ run them in RAID 0.


----------



## Blitz6804

Joe's ULi would not run any SATA drive if I recall correctly. It was a common problem with the CFX 3200.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Joe's ULi would not run any SATA drive if I recall correctly. It was a common problem with the CFX 3200.


 Actually now that you mention it, last time I tried to use a SATA drive it wouldn't even show up in windows setup. But the strange thing is, when I set them up for a RAID array it sees them just fine.


----------



## Blitz6804

Which version of Windows? XPSP3? You need the SATA driver in your floppy drive or on a USB drive. Without the SATA driver, XP cannot find the drive. Vista should be able to find it. HOWEVER, the question is a matter of stability; Windows would not reliably work on any drive Joe had IIRC. It is funny, because the ABit we shared, equipped with the same ULi southbridge, had no issue.


----------



## pez

I'm gonna totally rag on this and say the only smart RAID I think is a completely mirrored raid. And the catch is that each drive needs to be a different brand. That way if one fails, and you think both drives are defective, you don't have to worry when you have both brands. Also, when you have a RAID that spreads info across multiple drives...when you lose on drive....you're effed. Just buy an OS drive, and then have storage drives. This way you can just back up your storage drives. Or do a ghost of them and if one fails....you're good to go.


----------



## nategr8ns

I don't do raid, too much money







.

For some reason, every time I power down my rig, it loses power (the LEDs on the mobo go off). In order to turn it back on, I need to flip the PSU switch off/on and then use the power button. What could cause this?


----------



## Blitz6804

The best mix of paranoia and speed is RAID 10. Most motherboards only support RAID 01, which is almost as good for a four-drive configuration. RAID 0 is faster, yes. HOWEVER, as Pez has said, you double your chance of losing data.

Lets assume that all hard drives have a 0.25% chance of failure in 5 years. In a single drive, you have a 0.25% chance of losing all your data after 5 years.

In a 2-drive RAID 0, you have a 0.50% chance of losing your data with drives almost twice as fast as a single drive.
In a 4-drive RAID 0, you have a 1.00% chance of losing your data with drives almost four-times as fast as a single drive.

In a 2-drive RAID 1, you have a 0.0625% chance of losing your data with drives slightly faster than a single drive.
In a 4-drive RAID 1, you have a 0.00390625% chance of losing your data with drives slightly faster than a single drive.

In a 4-drive RAID 10 or 01, you have a 0.125% chance of losing your data with drives almost twice as fast as a single drive.

I could talk about 8-drive RAIDs, but so few motherboards support them.

Nate: Is your PSU relatively old? It might be nearing the end of its lifecycle.


----------



## N2Gaming

Good Job Omega.

Pez I would think that would be ok. You might see a slight performance hit if the drives operate at different speeds or different size cache is on each drive. Other then that it sounds good.

I got my expert going w/the opty 180 and the Crucial Ballistix and the cpu has a 15C degree difference between core 0 & core 1. I'm running win 7 32 bit ATM. I will try xp x64 and see if it makes a difference after I load the duel core optimizer.

I did notice a weird thing. I was reaching in the case to feel the heat spreaders on the ram and I guess the slight movement from my touch moved the ram enough to turn the system off and reboot.









So I won't be doing that again any time soon. I will have to look and see if the ram has the same numbers that thlnk3r told me about when it comes to the thickness of the ram. I think the ram is designed for Apple Mac macines.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Good Job Omega.

Pez I would think that would be ok. You might see a slight performance hit if the drives operate at different speeds or different size cache is on each drive. Other then that it sounds good.

I got my expert going w/the opty 180 and the Crucial Ballistix and the cpu has a 15C degree difference between core 0 & core 1. I'm running win 7 32 bit ATM. I will try xp x64 and see if it makes a difference after I load the duel core optimizer.


Thanx









If you're getting that much variation from core to core, you need to reseat your cooler. You might've gotten an air pocket over 1 of the cores.

As for RAID, I wouldn't mind running a 1+0 array. But thats too many HDDs'. And I have 2 identical drives that I bought for the sole purpose of running a RAID 0 config. I dont have irreplaceable data that isn't backed up already. I really want to see if there really is a difference. I wouldn't mind dropping load times.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Thanx









If you're getting that much variation from core to core, you need to reseat your cooler. You might've gotten an air pocket over 1 of the cores.

As for RAID, I wouldn't mind running a 1+0 array. But thats too many HDDs'. And I have 2 identical drives that I bought for the sole purpose of running a RAID 0 config. I dont have irreplaceable data that isn't backed up already. I really want to see if there really is a difference. I wouldn't mind dropping load times.


Well if that's the case, get a couple of WD VelociRaptors and get those puppies really zooming.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


For some reason, every time I power down my rig, it loses power (the LEDs on the mobo go off). In order to turn it back on, I need to flip the PSU switch off/on and then use the power button. What could cause this?


Nate, was this always an issue with your machine? Have you tried a different power supply?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


In a 4-drive RAID 1, you have a 0.00390625% chance of losing your data with drives slightly faster than a single drive.

In a *4-drive RAID 10 or 01*, you have a 0.125% chance of losing your data with drives almost twice as fast as a single drive.


Blitz, RAID 10 and 0+1 are different. Raid 10 is mirrored sets in a striped set. Raid 0+1 is striped sets in a mirrored set. Both are different. Also the "4-drive RAID 1" above is technically RAID 10 or 1+0. Might be easier calling it that.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


And the catch is that each drive needs to be a different brand. That way if one fails, and you think both drives are defective, you don't have to worry when you have both brands. Also, when you have a RAID that spreads info across multiple drives...when you lose on drive....you're effed.


Pez, both drives do not have to be different brands. Perhaps I'm confused by your post. For RAID 1, if one drive takes a dump it isn't the end of the world. Just replace the drive and the array will rebuild. Raid 5 has some performance issues when a drive dies but it also isn't the end of the world. Just replace the drive and your fine. You guys also have to understand that RAID is completely different in a Enterprise environment. We're running 7,200rpm drives in desktop machines










Don't forget also that more drives equals higher drive I/O.

Good luck guys


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


MikeV_E36:
My lapping log:
Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Part 5
Part 6

Good luck buddy! </thlnk3r>


Thanks for the feedback mate, I'll be having the lapping next month as I need my father's help. When it comes to labor I can be a real goofy so I don't want to mess my sink









Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


So I got a paypal claim going. Just a little FYI in the event you purchase something and it is not what the listing claims. You have 45 days to stake a claim w/the seller and return the merchandise for a full refund. That is PalPal terms and agreements for buyers safety. We all know there is a lot of people who dump a lot of defective merchandise on to others through ebay. The mobo has a manufacture defect and would have been covered by the warranty if it had not expired right when I bought it. :swearing:


Good luck with the paypal claim buddy. A8N32-Sli dlx is such a great ocer but I see you people having many problems with it. Makes me anxious about mine
















Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I got my expert going w/the opty 180 and the Crucial Ballistix and the cpu has a 15C degree difference between core 0 & core 1. I'm running win 7 32 bit ATM. I will try xp x64 and see if it makes a difference after I load the duel core optimizer.


As said before it could be trapped in your sink's base. Like my case. Air is heat's dissipation best enemy. Try resitting the sink as vertically as you can, press it down to spread the paste and rotate it clockwise and anti-clockwise by 2-3 degrees to set any trapped air free.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I did notice a weird thing. I was reaching in the case to feel the heat spreaders on the ram and I guess the slight movement from my touch moved the ram enough to turn the system off and reboot.










Or you closed a circuit via your finger signaling your mobo to reboot.

And I have a question.. In win XP I loaded two drivers for my 4200+. The AMD proc driver and the Dual Core optimizer. Is this needed for an opty at win Vista? I can't seem to find any of these two on AMD's site.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Nate: Is your PSU relatively old? It might be nearing the end of its lifecycle.


I'm not sure. It is only 430w, but I figured if that was enough to power the same rig minus the DFI, it would work fine. I can do some multimeter testing if that would determine anything.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Nate, was this always an issue with your machine? Have you tried a different power supply?


I have not, but I still have my 600w Ultra I can use. When I was restarting to resolve driver issues, this didn't happen. Only when I power down. What I just realized is that I've been using the power button to start the shut down procedure. In the diagram below, I marked the two LEDs that are on when the PSU has been power-cycled. After I shut down, only the Standby LED is on. Could the board be going to sleep, even though the OS is quitting?


----------



## Hueristic

Nate I've seen this happen if the ACPI(sp?) is disabled in bios when the OS is installed.
That is why I disable it after I install 
OS.









Hope this helps.


----------



## nategr8ns

so it's a setting in BIOS?
Before I get lost in there, does anybody know off-hand where the setting is?


----------



## MikeV_E36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


so it's a setting in BIOS?
Before I get lost in there, does anybody know off-hand where the setting is?










Must be in the power/monitor options


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 
Must be in the power/monitor options


----------



## nategr8ns

When ACPI is disabled, Windows will not start. It boots, goes through normal motherboard stuff (Detecting drives, et cetera), then displays the "windows could not boot last time" screen. I hit enter on the "boot windows normally" and it power cycles







. Same thing happens five times or so, so I choose "boot in safe mode." It goes through the list of all of the system files it's loading, and at the end it power cycles. So I go into BIOS, re-enable ACPI, and Windows boots fine.

No idea what happened.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
When ACPI is disabled, Windows will not start. It boots, goes through normal motherboard stuff (Detecting drives, et cetera), then displays the "windows could not boot last time" screen. I hit enter on the "boot windows normally" and it power cycles







. Same thing happens five times or so, so I choose "boot in safe mode." It goes through the list of all of the system files it's loading, and at the end it power cycles. So I go into BIOS, re-enable ACPI, and Windows boots fine.

No idea what happened.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, RAID 10 and 0+1 are different. Raid 10 is mirrored sets in a striped set. Raid 0+1 is striped sets in a mirrored set. Both are different. Also the "4-drive RAID 1" above is technically RAID 10 or 1+0. Might be easier calling it that.


I am aware of the differences between RAID 01 (or 0+1) and RAID 10 (or 1+0). In a four-drive configuration, they are substantially similar. It is only when you get to a greater number of drives do their differences become apparent. As to "4-drive RAID 1," I mean what I said. All four drives are identical clones. Some motherboards have this feature, most do not.

I am jealous of some of the computers my dad uses at work... 8-drive RAID 0 SCSI 15k RPM... hm... tasty... He says that nothing else has enough bandwidth for them to do what they want it to.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36*


And I have a question.. In win XP I loaded two drivers for my 4200+. The AMD proc driver and the Dual Core optimizer. Is this needed for an opty at win Vista? I can't seem to find any of these two on AMD's site.


Nope; the drive is integrated into Vista's shell. The reason why they are needed in XP is that when XP came out, dual-core CPUs were off in the horizon, even though dual-socket rigs were common in servers. By the time Vista came out, dual and quad-core CPUs had achieved perceivable market penetration.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


I'm not sure. It is only 430w, but I figured if that was enough to power the same rig minus the DFI, it would work fine. I can do some multimeter testing if that would determine anything.

I have not, but I still have my 600w Ultra I can use. When I was restarting to resolve driver issues, this didn't happen. Only when I power down. What I just realized is that I've been using the power button to start the shut down procedure. In the diagram below, I marked the two LEDs that are on when the PSU has been power-cycled. *After I shut down, only the Standby LED is on.* Could the board be going to sleep, even though the OS is quitting?











 Nate, this is perfectly normal. My DFI Ultra D/G does the same thing. THe RAM LED is off and the standby one is on.
Also, I dont think using the power button to start the shut down procedure is good practice.
Personally, I go through the task manager. Its faster anyway. ctrl+alt-del, alt+u, u (or R if you want to restart). That'll take all of 1 second


----------



## Blitz6804

In Vista, Windows key, followed by right, right, right, and the the U key. There are no further prompts. You can also program if you want for the PC power button to initiate the shutdown procedure in the Power Options. I use that for hibernate myself. You can also change the sleep button in the start menu to a power button from power options. NOTE: these must be set on a per-plan basis.


----------



## Blitz6804

For those who remember, I made an A64 memory calculator in Excel. The newest version (with forward compatibility to K10 CPUs and slight cosmetic changes) is available here.


----------



## Forestol_Grimm

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
NICE! I used the DA last week and used 150 and 220 on my old 3200+ and Got the OC from 230HTT to 300HTT! But I am modding a hs (again) to try to keep the temps down and had to drop the multi to 8. will push farther when I get the heat under control.
BTW this is on my hybrid asrock with 2 512 mismatched value ram in single mode!!!!!

well actually i did most of the work on that cpu lapping...
Since my uncle needs the computer i'm using right now (his HTPC has finally died, RIP) i'm using these pieces to make my new rig to game on (and i don't have to pause his folding every weekend, which also help the cause).

worked on modding the system last night and after about an hour i got it to POST @ 300 x8 (2.41 GHz) 1.275v 34 degree C, -or-, 290 x9 (2.62) 1.4v 36 degrees C.

This going to be used mainly a a gaming system with

-7950 GTx2 vid card
-the 3200+ cpu
-custom hs
-asrock 939 dual-SATA mobo
-512mb 3200 kingston valueram and 512mb samsung 2100.

i was wondering what i should use as the main cpu configuration from the 2 listed above and also what drivers and OS for the best performance. i am pretty new at OC-ing so i'm not sure whether having a higher FSB (my uncle tells me it's called HTT but i hear it is interchangeable) and a lower GHz is better than the higher GHz with a lower FSB. All help on this is appreciated.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MikeV_E36* 

Good luck with the paypal claim buddy. A8N32-Sli dlx is such a great ocer but I see you people having many problems with it. Makes me anxious about mine
















Mike, the A8N32SLI deluxe is a great mobo. Personally, I haven't had any issues with it. Only reason I sold mine is because I simply like the DFI boards better when it comes down to OCing. They have lots more options in the BIOS for fine tuning of various components. And since I went with a single card solution I have no use for an 939 SLI board, because the 939 cpu bottlenecks todays high end GPUs'. It simply doesn't have the throughput required for 2 powerful gpus'.
Granted the AM3 board I'm going to go with is going to be a 32x crossfire board. But I feel as though the AM3 chip will be able to handle 2 4870s' without bottlenecking them like crazy, especially once the the 945 comes out.


----------



## Blitz6804

Forestol_Grimm: In an Intel system, it is FSB. In an AMD system, it is HTT.

As to which of the two overclocks would be preferable, I would THINK it is the 290x9. HOWEVER, there are more factors at play here than just the CPU. Namely, you also have the RAM to consider. The only way to be sure is to thoroughly test both with various games and benchmarks and go for the one that generally performs better with what you intend to use it for. So if one gets 1s faster in SuperPi, but the other gets 3 FPS more in Call of Duty 4, shoot for the higher FPS.

I would like to mention that mixing PC-3200 and PC-2100 may not be a very good idea. In order to ensure stability, you would need to run it at DDR-266 at the PC-3200's latencies. The answer? VERY low bandwidths for an AMD system. I see Hueristic was running them in single channel; this might help the mismatched nature some, but you are more likely to get higher bandwidth in dual-channel mode.

BlackOmega: More often than not, "bottlenecking" is caused by bad game coding. My Crysis gets far better FPS with a Deneb than with a Brisbane, but Call of Duty 4 is substantially similar.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Forestol_Grimm* 
well actually i did most of the work on that cpu lapping...
Since my uncle needs the computer i'm using right now (his HTPC has finally died, RIP) i'm using these pieces to make my new rig to game on (and i don't have to pause his folding every weekend, which also help the cause).

worked on modding the system last night and after about an hour i got it to POST @ 300 x8 (2.41 GHz) 1.275v 34 degree C, -or-, 290 x9 (2.62) 1.4v 36 degrees C.

This going to be used mainly a a gaming system with

-7950 GTx2 vid card
-the 3200+ cpu
-custom hs
-asrock 939 dual-SATA mobo
-512mb 3200 kingston valueram and 512mb samsung 2100.

i was wondering what i should use as the main cpu configuration from the 2 listed above and also what drivers and OS for the best performance. i am pretty new at OC-ing so i'm not sure whether having a higher FSB (my uncle tells me it's called HTT but i hear it is interchangeable) and a lower GHz is better than the higher GHz with a lower FSB. All help on this is appreciated.

Well if you want to get technical FSB only applies to intel machines. HTT applies to AMD machines.
As for which oc is better, the higher one of course (as long as it's stable). And during my testing I've found that FSB/HTT makes no difference. Doesn't matter if you're at 2600MHz with 260fsb or 325, you're still @ 2600MHz. The only difference is that with 325 MHZ reference clock you'll need to up the chipset voltage for it to maintain speed, which in turn will increase your temps.
As for your OC's, the temps you've given, what did you use to get those numbers? Im assuming that is idle temp. What are the temps @ 100% load? That's whats really important.
Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well if you want to get technical FSB only applies to intel machines. HTT applies to AMD machines. 
As for which oc is better, the higher one of course (as long as it's stable). And during my testing I've found that FSB/HTT makes no difference. Doesn't matter if you're at 2600MHz with 260fsb or 325, you're still @ 2600MHz. The only difference is that with 325 MHZ reference clock you'll need to up the chipset voltage for it to maintain speed, which in turn will increase your temps. 
As for your OC's, the temps you've given, what did you use to get those numbers? Im assuming that is idle temp. What are the temps @ 100% load? That's whats really important. 
Good luck










Anther thing to consider is w/any Higher FSB/HTT your ram is gonna change or overclock so you may need to change the divider on the ram and play around w/your overclocks to find the fastest all around sweet spot that provides you with the best all around reliable & stable settings.

Good Luck,

N2G


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Nate, this is perfectly normal. My DFI Ultra D/G does the same thing. THe RAM LED is off and the standby one is on.
Also, I dont think using the power button to start the shut down procedure is good practice.
Personally, I go through the task manager. Its faster anyway. ctrl+alt-del, alt+u, u (or R if you want to restart). That'll take all of 1 second











Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


In Vista, Windows key, followed by right, right, right, and the the U key. There are no further prompts. You can also program if you want for the PC power button to initiate the shutdown procedure in the Power Options. I use that for hibernate myself. You can also change the sleep button in the start menu to a power button from power options. NOTE: these must be set on a per-plan basis.


I have my power button programmed to power off (the safe way).


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


BlackOmega: More often than not, "bottlenecking" is caused by bad game coding. My Crysis gets far better FPS with a Deneb than with a Brisbane, but Call of Duty 4 is substantially similar.


 I'll agree with you that coding has _some_ to do with bottlenecking, the 939's incapability to exceed ~ 3100MHz is what the problem really boils down to. As I've noticed through my testing that the higher the cpu speed the higher the GPU results in every test. So thats an indicator to me that the CPU is no longer able to keep up with the GPU.

As for crysis, I don't have problems with it either. Avg 29.xx fps with 16xAA (@3003MHz). As a matter of fact, I dont have issues with any of todays games so far. Except I was getting kind of crappy framerates with UT3 with 24xAA forced, ~ 25.

As for my decision to go to AM3, I just simply want more cores. I'm planning on going with the 710 for now until I decide to crossfire, then Ill get a quad core of some sort depending on whats out.


----------



## Blitz6804

I am not sure that the ability to exceed 3100 MHz is really that pertinent. In tests between us, Pioneer's Denmark would beat my Brisbane in clock-to-clock situations. I am unsure if this is because of his greater cache or his greater HTT. In any even, benchmarks of his L1/L2 caches are far superior to mine, even though my memory would beat his.

It is only going to the newer STARS (Deneb/Heka/Callisto/Sparta) that AM2+ really starts to seriously threaten the end-stage 939 products, that is, Toledo/San Diego. 939 => AM2 is not an upgrade; it is a transgrade. 939 => AM2+/AM3 would in fact be an upgrade. It is interesting to note that AM2 seems to provide the peak bandwidth of an AMD system.

So far, in my testing, I have not been able to get my Deneb to compete with my Brisbane. I will be doing more tinkering lately, but the distinct northbridge seems to be a hindrance. Yes, it is easier to compute RAM speed than AM2 or 939, but because the NB is traditionally runner slower than the typical AM2/939 CPU, the memory bandwidth will be lower clock-for-clock.

For the record BlackOmega, at 3250 MHz, my average FPS was about the same as yours in Crysis. Proving how poorly coded it was.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I am jealous of some of the computers my dad uses at work... 8-drive RAID 0 SCSI 15k RPM... hm... tasty... He says that nothing else has enough bandwidth for them to do what they want it to.


Blitz, what kind of work does your Dad do that requires him to have 8 drives in Raid 0? Sounds like the above is in a small array. Give us the details so we can drool (hitachi san, md1000/emc ect ect)









By the way are you sure they are SCSI drives and not SAS? The SCSI interface is old news.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Might be SAS, might not be; I honestly do not know. I cant go too much in detail (national security and confidential type deals) but that configuration is the only thing with enough throughput to keep up with the data output of the device connected to them.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Might be SAS, might not be; I honestly do not know. I cant go too much in detail (national security and confidential type deals) but that configuration is the only thing with enough throughput to keep up with the data output of the device connected to them.


epic
My aunt works for the military/government with computers, and has since the early years of computers. She has this neat-o "declassified" sticker on one of her laptops







.

I've never seen one with a classified sticker







. We have no idea what she does either.


----------



## Blitz6804

One day I would love to try a 16-drive RAID 10 built entirely of 256 GB SSDs. Sure the drives would cost $9600 or so, but think of the I/O! Sequential read of a single drive is upwards of 240 MBps, sequential write is upwards of 160 MBps. 2048 GB of storage with redundancy and nearly 7-times the throughput of a single drive is enough to make anyone drool I am sure. 8-times in an ideal world.

(RAID 10 is of course 8 pairs of mirrored drives hooked up in RAID 0. Alternatively, RAID 01 is two 8-drive RAID 0s that are mirrored. The former is better for data security; if you lose a drive, you have a 1/15 shot of killing the array before you can rebuild, as you must lose the other drive of that mirror. In a RAID 01 configuration, if you lose a drive, you have a 1/8 shot of killing the array before you can rebuild, as any one of the drives on the other side of the mirror can fail to kill the array.)


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


One day I would love to try a 16-drive RAID 10 built entirely of 256 GB SSDs. Sure the drives would cost $9600 or so, but think of the I/O! Sequential read of a single drive is upwards of 240 MBps, sequential write is upwards of 160 MBps. 2048 GB of storage with redundancy and nearly 7-times the throughput of a single drive is enough to make anyone drool I am sure. 8-times in an ideal world.

(RAID 10 is of course 8 pairs of mirrored drives hooked up in RAID 0. Alternatively, RAID 01 is two 8-drive RAID 0s that are mirrored. The former is better for data security; if you lose a drive, you have a 1/15 shot of killing the array before you can rebuild, as you must lose the other drive of that mirror. In a RAID 01 configuration, if you lose a drive, you have a 1/8 shot of killing the array before you can rebuild, as any one of the drives on the other side of the mirror can fail to kill the array.)



Sure would be worth all the money and effort if you have a Mobo capable of handling 4 onboard chips for a total of 16 cores.

Now that is when you would have some seriouse I/O power and would be able to host multiple Virtual game servers, Web servers, File servers and Phone servers all from one pc and never have to shut it down.







Can you say Dollar Dollar bill Y'all


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah... but can it play Crysis? (Sorry... I just had to.)


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Yeah... but can it play Crysis? (Sorry... I just had to.)


Dude, you did not specify what hardware in question. So let me fill in the gaps. Intell Core 7 940 CPU's x 4 and the baddest GPUs on the market thus far prolly GTX295 x 4 or something along those lines.























Dollar Dollar Bill Y'all


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I am not sure that the ability to exceed 3100 MHz is really that pertinent. In tests between us, Pioneer's Denmark would beat my Brisbane in clock-to-clock situations. I am unsure if this is because of his greater cache or his greater HTT. In any even, benchmarks of his L1/L2 caches are far superior to mine, even though my memory would beat his.

It is only going to the newer STARS (Deneb/Heka/Callisto/Sparta) that AM2+ really starts to seriously threaten the end-stage 939 products, that is, Toledo/San Diego. 939 => AM2 is not an upgrade; it is a transgrade. 939 => AM2+/AM3 would in fact be an upgrade. It is interesting to note that AM2 seems to provide the peak bandwidth of an AMD system.

So far, in my testing, I have not been able to get my Deneb to compete with my Brisbane. I will be doing more tinkering lately, but the distinct northbridge seems to be a hindrance. Yes, it is easier to compute RAM speed than AM2 or 939, but because the NB is traditionally runner slower than the typical AM2/939 CPU, the memory bandwidth will be lower clock-for-clock.

For the record BlackOmega, at 3250 MHz, my average FPS was about the same as yours in Crysis. Proving how poorly coded it was.


 wow with the 4870x2 you got the same? THen yeah super bad coding, lol. supposedly warhead is a lot better. 
And I know Am2/AM2+ was not really an upgrade. As I saw pez's 3dmark results and my opty180 actually scored higher than his CPU (brisbane?). But on the opposite side of the same token, his SM2.0/3.0 scores were higher. At first I was thinking that it had to do with the PCIe slots, but after doing some research that can't possibly be it. As a PCIe 1.0 slots has more than enough bandwidth for even todays GPUs'.
So my only other assumption is memory bandwidth. Perhaps DDR2, just has a lot more bandwidth than my DDR @ stock?
Hmm....


----------



## Blitz6804

Pez has a Kuma. That is a dual-core Agena. Like a Brisbane, it is a 65 nm CPU, but unlike a Brisbane, it has a DDR2-1066 memory controller, a dedicated NB (a bad thing in my testing so far), and L3 cache. As to the PCI-E comment, a PCI-E 1.0 slot will DEFINITELY bottleneck an HD 4870x2 or GTX-295. Whether or not it will affect an HD 4870 is a different question.

And no BlackOmega, you likely out bandwidth Pez. Pez is running an AM2+ CPU. Like I said, AM2+ tend to have a lower bandwidth than AM2. My Brisbane got about 9300 MBps for DDR2-813. This would be the same as DDR-582 thereabouts. However, I did with 4 GB what 939 would only be able to do with 2x1024. On the other hand, my Deneb runs stock DDR2-1066 @ 7400 MBps. Assuming again only 2 GB, that is DDR-463. Like I said, this likely has to do with the northbridge. My Brisbane was running a 3250 MHz northbridge. (In K8s, the CPU speed is the northbridge speed, hence why the formulae are so tricky.) The Deneb is 1800 MHz stock, although I am experimenting getting it higher. Increases in the NB translate to massive gains on the RAM bandwidth. If I remember right, increasing it to 2200 MHz increased my bandwidth to 8800 MBps.


----------



## pez

I get about 7300MB/s as far as bandwidth on my memory. I re-ran 3DMark06 and my CPU scores about 2300 now and I'm not sure what the others are...the score is in my sig.

EDIT: BTW, the only cards that a PCI-e 1.0 bottlenecks are like 4850x2's, 4870x2's, and the new GTX285/295. It could possible bottleneck a 4870, but not likely.


----------



## BlackOmega

BLitz, I think I screwed up my MB/s and GB/s







.
But considering that, then solely looking at the numbers, even the PCIe2.0 slot would technically bottleneck also. Considering that PCIe2.0 has a bandwidth of 500MB/s and even my GSO in a PCIex2 slot has a bandwidth of 39.2GB/s.

Whats your take on that?

As for memory, I'll have to download everest again and check it. I remember last time I checked it, it was up pretty high even at stock speeds.


----------



## Blitz6804

If you are running 2x1024 MB DDR-400 1:1, you would expect around 6400 MBps in dual-channel mode. DDR-500 1:1 is around 8000 MBps.

As to the graphics cards: 39.2 GBps is the GDDR RAM on the card. This is independent of the bandwidth going to the motherboard.


----------



## Hueristic

This is Forestol_grimm using Hueristic's account.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Forestol_Grimm: In an Intel system, it is FSB. In
an AMD system, it is HTT.

As to which of the two overclocks would be preferable, I would THINK it is the 290x9. HOWEVER, there are more factors at play here than just the CPU. Namely, you also have the RAM to consider. The only way to be sure is to thoroughly test both with various games and benchmarks and go for the one that generally performs better with what you intend to use it for. So if one gets 1s faster in SuperPi, but the other gets 3 FPS more in Call of Duty 4, shoot for the higher FPS.

I would like to mention that mixing PC-3200 and PC-2100 may not be a very good idea. In order to ensure stability, you would need to run it at DDR-266 at the PC-3200's latencies. The answer? VERY low bandwidths for an AMD system. I see Hueristic was running them in single channel; this might help the mismatched nature some, but you are more likely to get higher bandwidth in dual-channel mode.

i can't seem to find a way to force a dual-channel in the bios despite running both at 133.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Well if you want to get technical FSB only applies to intel machines. HTT applies to AMD machines.
As for which oc is better, the higher one of course (as long as it's stable). And during my testing I've found that FSB/HTT makes no difference. Doesn't matter if you're at 2600MHz with 260fsb or 325, you're still @ 2600MHz. The only difference is that with 325 MHZ reference clock you'll need to up the chipset voltage for it to maintain speed, which in turn will increase your temps.
As for your OC's, the temps you've given, what did you use to get those numbers? Im assuming that is idle temp. What are the temps @ 100% load? That's whats really important.
Good luck









those temps were at idle and i'll post the temps at full load when the system is up and running.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Anther thing to consider is w/any Higher FSB/HTT your ram is gonna change or overclock so you may need to change the divider on the ram and play around w/your overclocks to find the fastest all around sweet spot the provides you with the best all around reliabl stable settings.

Good Luck,

N2G

I'm not sure what you mean here. It might be because i have a headache and can't focus but i have no idea what you are saying with the ram dividers.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
i can't seem to find a way to force a dual-channel in the bios despite running both at 133.

Dual-channel is hardware, not software. Unplug the PC, move a DIMM over one slot, and boot. It should be in dual-channel in theory.


----------



## Hueristic

Sup, I'm back in my chair.







Trying to teach him how to not rely on me all the time. He has to learn these things himself and the first step is to learn how to communicate with people and how to find the right people to communicate with in the first place.

Not to mention you guys are more up on 939 then I am. LOL

He's back changeing PS's right now, After putting it in the case and adding the 7950X2 it wouldn't boot.









Been there done that! So anyway appreciate all the help you guys give him. He's got 1 more year (next year is last in high school) before I'm a country away and he won't have me around to rely on.

got him checking the voltage drop on the 12v rails right now as it is booting sporadic now (probably do to the draw from the gpu with the crappy 430w ps's I got here.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
I'm not sure what you mean here. It might be because i have a headache and can't focus but i have no idea what you are saying with the ram dividers.

blitz mentioned duel channel fix if you have not already tried that. duel channel requires your ram dims to be in the correct ram slots to work in a duel channel configuration.

I'm sorry if I confused U with the ram divider sentence. What I meant was that if he is raising his FSB and running his ram at DDR400 then his ram is going to overclock w/the FSB. So He would have to lower his ram divider or ram spd from ddr400 to say ddr366 or dd333. That's what I meant.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


One day I would love to try a 16-drive RAID 10 built entirely of 256 GB SSDs. Sure the drives would cost $9600 or so, but think of the I/O! Sequential read of a single drive is upwards of 240 MBps, sequential write is upwards of 160 MBps. 2048 GB of storage with redundancy and nearly 7-times the throughput of a single drive is enough to make anyone drool I am sure. 8-times in an ideal world.


Blitz, we have a few SANs similar to that at work. I have barely played with them though. We had an Hitachi guy come out and configure most of it. We paid for the support so why not use it. The drives aren't SSD though, they are fiber channel and believe we have the array split on separate channels with one drive being a hot spare. I can't exactly remember. I've know slightly more about Dell's EMC equipment than anything which surprisingly easy to manage.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Now that is when you would have some seriouse I/O power and would be able to host multiple Virtual game servers, Web servers, File servers and Phone servers all from one pc and never have to shut it down.







Can you say Dollar Dollar bill Y'all


N2Gaming, depends what kind of storage device you're referring to. A SAN is stand-alone. A disk array is usually hooked up to a server (via sas cables, perc 6/i controller ect). Most if not all of those type of devices are typically used for large databases. A web server (mentioned above) doesn't have to be beefy. Bandwidth is more important for a front end web server.

Sorry for the OT


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, we have a few SANs similar to that at work. I have barely played with them though. We had an Hitachi guy come out and configure most of it. We paid for the support so why not use it. The drives aren't SSD though, they are fiber channel and believe we have the array split on separate channels with one drive being a hot spare. I can't exactly remember. I've know slightly more about Dell's EMC equipment than anything which surprisingly easy to manage.

N2Gaming, depends what kind of storage device you're referring to. A SAN is stand-alone. A disk array is usually hooked up to a server (via sas cables, perc 6/i controller ect). Most if not all of those type of devices are typically used for large databases. A web server (mentioned above) doesn't have to be beefy. Bandwidth is more important for a front end web server.

Sorry for the OT










Thanks thlnk3r, I mostly was hypothisizin w/blitz about his wish to have $9k worth of drives to test bandwidth and I figured I would throw a monkey wrench in the program.







I have never ever run any kind of scsi or raid configuration so I know zero about it when it comes to hands on experience. I have read up on it but have not had the money to do a 4 disk raid 0+1 or raid 5 BOD yet. BOD bunch of disks.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thanks thlnk3r, I mostly was hypothisizin w/blitz about his wish to have $9k worth of drives to test bandwidth and I figured I would throw a monkey wrench in the program.







I have never ever run any kind of scsi or raid configuration so I know zero about it when it comes to hands on experience. I have read up on it but have not had the money to do a 4 disk raid 0+1 or raid 5 BOD yet. BOD bunch of disks.


N2Gaming, if you're interested here a article that covers most of RAID: http://www.bjorn3d.com/read.php?cID=886. Plenty of diagrams and information that should help you out. Also here is a raid calculator that I use a lot: http://www.ibeast.com/content/tools/...c/RaidCalc.asp.

Hope that helps


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, if you're interested here a article that covers most of RAID: http://www.bjorn3d.com/read.php?cID=886. Plenty of diagrams and information that should help you out. Also here is a raid calculator that I use a lot: http://www.ibeast.com/content/tools/...c/RaidCalc.asp.

Hope that helps










Thanks thlnker, my brain is about to freez or crash and reboot. I'm writing the flash Article now. and will take a look at it later I will copy the shortcut to the post and pm it to my self for later viewing thnx again bro.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


If you are running 2x1024 MB DDR-400 1:1, you would expect around 6400 MBps in dual-channel mode. DDR-500 1:1 is around 8000 MBps.

As to the graphics cards: 39.2 GBps is the GDDR RAM on the card. This is independent of the bandwidth going to the motherboard.


 Then how do you know the actual throughput? And of what. 
I know theres bit interface, but all I really know about it is that more is better. Not what you're actually transmitting. And how the number of the bit interface relates to my PCIe slot. Thats not very clearly defined anywhere, not that I've actually looked a lot though.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Then how do you know the actual throughput? And of what. 
I know theres bit interface, but all I really know about it is that more is better. Not what you're actually transmitting. And how the number of the bit interface relates to my PCIe slot. Thats not very clearly defined anywhere, not that I've actually looked a lot though.


If PCI-e 2.0 slots were bottlenecking cards, they wouldn't be making newer more powerful cards still lol.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


I don't do raid, too much money







.

For some reason, every time I power down my rig, it loses power (the LEDs on the mobo go off). In order to turn it back on, I need to flip the PSU switch off/on and then use the power button. What could cause this?


Did you ever get this figured out?

I noticed w/my expert board that when I put the pc to sleep both led's stay lit. However if/when I do a complete shutdown only the led closest to my debug led's stays lit.

Incidentally I have noticed that when the xpert goes to sleep and after I wake it up this mobo has 3 debug led's lit up as well. I mentioned this several hundered post's ago. I just thought I would bring it up again.


----------



## nategr8ns

I haven't actually powered down the system yet







.

I bought an ipod 30gb 5.5g (video) last night from a friend and I've been busy playing with it







.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
If PCI-e 2.0 slots were bottlenecking cards, they wouldn't be making newer more powerful cards still lol.


That is yet to be determined.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
That is yet to be determined.









LOL, True Card manufacturers will build what sells period. They've built ISA, VLB, PCI and AGP cards that bottleneck the bus so why not PCI-E. They just don't have the tec yet to do it.


----------



## Blitz6804

What AGP card bottlenecked the bus?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


What AGP card bottlenecked the bus?


IIRC there is a ATI 3XXX series that has higher bandwidth than AGP.


----------



## Blitz6804

The HD 3850 came in AGP and PCI-E flavors. I have owned both. The performance of the AGP card was substantially similar to the performance of the PCI-E card whether on a PCI-E 1.0 or PCI-E 2.0 motherboard. I would argue that the HD 3850 was just barely under the performance cap. Anything faster would likely surpass it, which MIGHT be one reason why plans to make an HD 4670 AGP were scuttled. (Wait, stop that... Not scuttled, just delayed. A press release as recent of March of this year seems to indicate PowerColor is continuing their plans for one.)

EDIT: It is interesting to note that the bandwidth of AGP 8x is about 6.65% higher than that of PCI-E 1.0 8x. Just for the record.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


The HD 3850 came in AGP and PCI-E flavors. I have owned both. The performance of the AGP card was substantially similar to the performance of the PCI-E card whether on a PCI-E 1.0 or PCI-E 2.0 motherboard. I would argue that the HD 3850 was just barely under the performance cap. Anything faster would likely surpass it, which MIGHT be one reason why plans to make an HD 4670 AGP were scuttled. (Wait, stop that... Not scuttled, just delayed. A press release as recent of March of this year seems to indicate PowerColor is continuing their plans for one.)

EDIT: It is interesting to note that the bandwidth of AGP 8x is about 6.65% higher than that of PCI-E 1.0 8x. Just for the record.


AGP was a nice tech, I'm sorry PCI-E was forced down our throat. There are many systems that can do their job just fine on agp. I finally upgraded my agp htpc to pci-e but would have been happy to replace the vid card. but it wasn't cost effective in the long run.


----------



## Blitz6804

If not for the mobo dying (again) I likely would have kept AGP myself. But then I went PCI-E because I did not want to wait for the RMA, and I have not been able to stop buying since. Stupid OCN... making me spend money. I will have you know that prior to me joining the forum, I would spend about $400 a year on my computer, usually in November, upgrading a part or two. Since joining OCN some 14 months ago, I have spent easily two grand, if not more.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


If not for the mobo dying (again) I likely would have kept AGP myself. But then I went PCI-E because I did not want to wait for the RMA, and I have not been able to stop buying since. Stupid OCN... making me spend money. I will have you know that prior to me joining the forum, I would spend about $400 a year on my computer, usually in November, upgrading a part or two. Since joining OCN some 14 months ago, I have spent easily two grand, if not more.










If I had the cash I would be too right now! LOL I used to spend next to nothing since I would be upgrading peops to the latest greatest and get their 6 month old stuff for free. LOL

Kinda miss those days.


----------



## BlackOmega

So there is still no answer as to what the actual bandwidth is? If pcie 1.0 moves 250gb/s and pcie 2.0 moves 500gb/s how does the "bit interface" actually apply to that. I can understand mb/s & gb/s but 128/192/256/448/512 bit is kind of a mystery. What do those numbers actually mean?

EDIT: I think I need a new name for my rig......







but nothing comes to mind. Any suggestions?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
So there is still no answer as to what the actual bandwidth is? If pcie 1.0 moves 250gb/s and pcie 2.0 moves 500gb/s how does the "bit interface" actually apply to that. I can understand mb/s & gb/s but 128/192/256/448/512 bit is kind of a mystery. What do those numbers actually mean?

EDIT: I think I need a new name for my rig......







but nothing comes to mind. Any suggestions?

DFI-CFX-3200 UT

or Doomed From Initiation of Cross Fire xchange.


----------



## Blitz6804

Uhm... BlackOmega... where are you getting your numbers?

Since we know PCI is 133 MBps, we know that AGP 1x is 266 MBps. (AGP 1x was touted as being twice as fast as PCI. I remember when the bus first came out.) Thus, we know that AGP 8x is, as you would suspect, 8 times that, or 2133 MBs.

We either know by rank memorization or by my 6.65% comment that PCI-E 1.0 8x is 2000 MBps. PCI-E 2.0 is twice as fast as PCI-E 1.0, thus, PCI-E 2.0 8x would be 4000 MBps. Accordingly, PCI-E 2.0 16x would be 8000 MBps and PCI-E 1.0 16x would be 4000 MBps.

To put all those in bits:

AGP 8x = 2133 MBps = 17,064 Mbps = 16.6 Gbps
PCI-E 1.0 16x = 4000 MBps = 32,000 Mbps = 31.3 Gbps
PCI-E 2.0 16x = 8000 MBps = 64,000 Mbps = 62.5 Gbps

I believe you have your units confused. PCI-E 1.0 moves 250 MBps per lane. PCI-E 2.0 moves 500 MBps per lane. Note, those are MB, not GB. 16x is 16 lanes.


----------



## Hueristic

B.O. I think what your asking is the size of the word used. IE 8bit/16bit/32bit...

Is that what you mean?


----------



## Blitz6804

Ah, how graphics cards have memory buses defined in bits. Exempli gratia: an HD 3850 has a 256-bit bus, an HD 4870 does as well, and a GTX 260 has a 448-bit bus. To compute your graphics card's frame buffer bandwidth, it is:

Transfer rate (in MHz) x Bus width (in Bits) / 8000 (to convert megabits into gigabytes, since there are 8 bits to a byte)

In my case:

3600* MHz x 256 bits = 921,600 Mbps = 115.2 GBps; which is what is shown in GPU-Z

*This is 3600 MHz as I am running GDDR5 900 MHz, which is quad-pumped


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Uhm... BlackOmega... where are you getting your numbers?

Since we know PCI is 133 MBps, we know that AGP 1x is 266 MBps. (AGP 1x was touted as being twice as fast as PCI. I remember when the bus first came out.) Thus, we know that AGP 8x is, as you would suspect, 8 times that, or 2133 MBs.

We either know by rank memorization or by my 6.65% comment that PCI-E 1.0 8x is 2000 MBps. PCI-E 2.0 is twice as fast as PCI-E 1.0, thus, PCI-E 2.0 8x would be 4000 MBps. Accordingly, PCI-E 2.0 16x would be 8000 MBps and PCI-E 1.0 16x would be 4000 MBps.

To put all those in bits:

AGP 8x = 2133 MBps = 17,064 Mbps = 16.6 Gbps
PCI-E 1.0 16x = 4000 MBps = 32,000 Mbps = 31.3 Gbps
PCI-E 2.0 16x = 8000 MBps = 64,000 Mbps = 62.5 Gbps

I believe you have your units confused. PCI-E 1.0 moves 250 MBps per lane. PCI-E 2.0 moves 500 MBps per lane. Note, those are MB, not GB. 16x is 16 lanes.


 Sorry Blitz, I've been typing in the wrong bits. I cracked a tooth:swearing: on thursday and have been on a vicodin/darvoset regimen since fri. Along with another unmentionable







. So my thinking is a little off quilter.

But I am still a little confused about the second number in your equation. i.e.
PCI-E 1.0 16x: 250mb/s per lane x 16 lanes = 4000MB/s (up to here I get), then for some reason its multiplied by 8. What is the multiplier at this point? How does it get to 32,000 Mb/s?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


B.O. I think what your asking is the size of the word used. IE 8bit/16bit/32bit...

Is that what you mean?


 Pretty much.







Thanks Hue.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Ah, how graphics cards have memory buses defined in bits. Exempli gratia: an HD 3850 has a 256-bit bus, an HD 4870 does as well, and a GTX 260 has a 448-bit bus. To compute your graphics card's frame buffer bandwidth, it is:

Transfer rate (in MHz) x Bus width (in Bits) / 8000 (to convert megabits into gigabytes, since there are 8 bits to a byte)

In my case:

3600* MHz x 256 bits = 921,600 Mbps = 115.2 GBps; which is what is shown in GPU-Z

*This is 3600 MHz as I am running GDDR5 900 MHz, which is quad-pumped


 Ok so here we're at the origin of all this. If your card is running @ 115.2 gb/s then how does a PCIE2.0 slot not bottleneck it since its throughput is roughly half that of the card?


----------



## BlackOmega

Well at any rate, got my "folding" rig together. my 3500+ @ 2805MHz. CPUZ Validation.

Does anyone have a spare DFI NB heatsink they could spare? I had to swap the heatsinks back over from the CFX to the NF4.

EDIT:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
DFI-CFX-3200 UT

or Doomed From Initiation of Cross Fire xchange.









:swearing:


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


But I am still a little confused about the second number in your equation. i.e.
PCI-E 1.0 16x: 250mb/s per lane x 16 lanes = 4000MB/s (up to here I get), then for some reason its multiplied by 8. What is the multiplier at this point? How does it get to 32,000 Mb/s?


MB = Megabyte
Mb = Megabit

1MB/s = 8Mb/s because 1 byte is 8 bit.
Not knowing the difference is far too common. A lot of people are fooled by their ISPs that way, since most ISPs offer connection speeds in Mb/s when what you're really interested in is the MB/s that is shown when actually downloading things.


----------



## Blitz6804

As HothBase reiterated what I said earlier: there are 8 bits to a byte. A bit is either a 0 or a 1. A byte is 8 numbers together making a total binary stream. When you type the letter "A" for example, your computer records it as "0100 0001." If you were to make a file in notepad, type solely the letter A and save it, you should notice that it is exactly one byte.

As to how the slot does not bottleneck the card: we are talking different things. The only thing that accesses the frame buffer is the graphics processor; it never gets accessed by the "outside" world. Your graphics processor puts things in the buffer to hold them until it is ready for them, then goes back and takes them out and sends it to where it needs to go. Accordingly, there is no direct correlation between the framebuffer bandwidth and the requisite PCI-E frequency.


----------



## HothBase

Hey blitz, just noticed that dragon in your system!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Let us see if they are as good as the 939s of old

Are you going to share your first impressions with us?


----------



## Blitz6804

I already have been in here. Check also the thread in my signature.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Long-time no-see, people!

Been absurdly busy the last week or so, but I've been keeping a watch on our little village here. Great work, everyone.









All this talk of the CFX3200-DR has been, how should I say, inspirational. At least there is at least one other S939er who can attest to the hit-or-miss nature of the CFX3200's ULi SATA controller.

In light of that, I've decided that, on my board, the best way to mitigate against this peculiar problem is to bypass that controller insofar as the OS boot drive is concerned. Most people who rave about this board do this anyway, but by necessity use the Silicon Image SATA controller (SATA I spec, by the way) with a RAID array of some sort.

Consequently, I'm now saving up to get a second 74GB Raptor HDD (the first one came from thlnk3r, who sold me his fresh-from-RMA one) to do a RAID 0 array for the boot drive. This somewhat renders moot the SATA controller card I bought several months ago as a solution, but that part could still find its way to another machine and be used there.

Of course, as and when I get time to get back into this hobby in any meaningful way, I'll keep you guys posted.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Long-time no-see, people!

Been absurdly busy the last week or so, but I've been keeping a watch on our little village here. Great work, everyone.









All this talk of the CFX3200-DR has been, how should I say, inspirational. At least there is at least one other S939er who can attest to the hit-or-miss nature of the CFX3200's ULi SATA controller.

In light of that, I've decided that, on my board, the best way to mitigate against this peculiar problem is to bypass that controller insofar as the OS boot drive is concerned. Most people who rave about this board do this anyway, but by necessity use the Silicon Image SATA controller (SATA I spec, by the way) with a RAID array of some sort.

Consequently, I'm now saving up to get a second 74GB Raptor HDD (the first one came from thlnk3r, who sold me his fresh-from-RMA one) to do a RAID 0 array for the boot drive. This somewhat renders moot the SATA controller card I bought several months ago as a solution, but that part could still find its way to another machine and be used there.

Of course, as and when I get time to get back into this hobby in any meaningful way, I'll keep you guys posted.









Good to see you back.










As it turns out the CFX is pretty picky when it comes down to power supplies. It wouldn't boot with a 4pin plug. It really needs the 8pin.
And oddly enough since I've got it running again, with the same old harddrive it hasn't locked up once....









If I get a chance later today, Im gonna back all the files off of my HDD that I'm using on the 3500+ machine and try a RAID 0 config on the CFX (so I can use matching RE16 drives). Im going to actually try to use the ULi SATA connectors too.








And if that doesn't work then I'll have to try thy the SiL ones.

Have you guys heard anything about PCIE 3.0 and when its coming out? I've heard rumors possibly late this year or next year. Supposedly, it's going ot have double the bandwidth of PCIe2.0, since its not going to utilize some sort of encoding that takes up 20% of its bandwidth.
I wonder PCIe3.0 stuff will be backwards compatible?


----------



## Blitz6804

Later this year. You will start seeing PCI-E 3.0 equipped devices in 2010, and yes, it is backward compatible.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Later this year. You will start seeing PCI-E 3.0 equipped devices in 2010, and yes, it is backward compatible.

I'm just waiting on AM3 boards with SATA 6Gb/s

We hardly use teh PCI-e 1.0 spec to its fullest. And are just starting to actually need the PCI-e 2.0 spec. (with 2xGPU cards)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
If I get a chance later today, Im gonna back all the files off of my HDD that I'm using on the 3500+ machine and try a RAID 0 config on the CFX (so I can use matching RE16 drives). Im going to actually try to use the ULi SATA connectors too.

BlackOmega, will you be able to do some HDTach comparisons with both setups (Single drive and RAID 0)?

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, will you be able to do some HDTach comparisons with both setups (Single drive and RAID 0)?

Good luck


Honestly th|nk3r, I dont think I'll be able to. The drive that I have hooked up to it is a ATA drive (I dont think its even an Ultra/ATA). And well the new drives are SATA 3.0GB/s.

And I don't need a benchmark to tell me that this drive is ridiculously slow. It literally takes more than twice as long as a SATA drive.


----------



## N2Gaming

I finally got the Venus mobo and it is cracked.:swearing: has some clear glue on it and a damaged cap. double :swearing::swearing:


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I finally got the Venus mobo and it is cracked.:swearing: has some clear glue on it and a damaged cap. double :swearing::swearing:

O dude, that really sucks.









But hey if its got a good NB fan on it wanna sell it? I need one for one of my DFI's. Let me know.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
...Of course, as and when I get time to get back into this hobby in any meaningful way, I'll keep you guys posted.









THIS is not a Hobby! It's a lifestyle!:swearing:









Sorry haven't been posting much last few days, wanted to explain further on the bits and word size ect, but ran outta sleeping meds and got pain/sleep deprivation going on at once is a real downer. So I've just been helping out on the simple unanswered posts and testing the new [email protected] drivers.

N2 post pics of that Venus!!!

*edited:: took me 4 minutes to post this! N2's post wasn't there when I started writeing this! Arrghhh I needs Meds! (they come from S.C. now







)


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
THIS is not a Hobby! It's a lifestyle!:swearing:









Sorry haven't been posting much last few days, wanted to explain further on the bits and word size ect, but ran outta sleeping meds and got pain/sleep deprivation going on at once is a real downer. So I've just been helping out on the simple unanswered posts and testing the new [email protected] drivers.

N2 post pics of that Venus!!!

*edited:: took me 4 minutes to post this! N2's post wasn't there when I started writeing this! Arrghhh I needs Meds! (they come from S.C. now







)

OK let me whip out the camera and do the deed for my peeps.


----------



## Blitz6804

BlackOmega: Put the drives in your system non-RAID. Run HDTach. Hook them up as RAID0 and repartition. Run HDTach again. Then go back and install Windows on them and sell the ATA.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Too funny, I left the house this morning with S&M running thinking it would be done in a few hours. I got home about 9:30pm or so and it was still running. Whoops









S&M(r) 1.9.1

Start:23.03.2009 (Monday) 8:56
Stop: 23.03.2009 (Monday) 21:51

Processor # 0:
Cache L1 passed
Cache L2 passed
Integer passed
FPU interrupted
Power Supply skipped
Processor # 1:
Cache L1 passed
Cache L2 passed
Integer passed
FPU interrupted
Power Supply skipped

System Memory skipped

HDD skip

Test setting:
CPU test time: Long, load 100%
RAM test time: Long


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Too funny, I left the house this morning with S&M running thinking it would be done in a few hours. I got home about 9:30pm or so and it was still running. Whoops









S&M(r) 1.9.1

Start:23.03.2009 (Monday) 8:56
Stop: 23.03.2009 (Monday) 21:51

Processor # 0:
Cache L1 passed
Cache L2 passed
Integer passed
FPU interrupted
Power Supply skipped
Processor # 1:
Cache L1 passed
Cache L2 passed
Integer passed
FPU interrupted
Power Supply skipped

System Memory skipped

HDD skip

Test setting:
CPU test time: Long, load 100%
RAM test time: Long











I thought you were gonna say "I came home to a melted slag, where my computer used to be"!


----------



## Blitz6804

13 hours!? It should be done in 4-6 depending on the memory amounts. Did you have it set to loop?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Too funny, I left the house this morning with S&M running thinking it would be done in a few hours. I got home about 9:30pm or so and it was still running. Whoops









S&M(r) 1.9.1

Start: 23.03.2009 (Monday) 8:56
Stop: 23.03.2009 (Monday) 21:51

Processor # 0:
Cache L1 passed
Cache L2 passed
Integer passed
FPU interrupted
Power Supply skipped
Processor # 1:
Cache L1 passed
Cache L2 passed
Integer passed
FPU interrupted
Power Supply skipped

System Memory skipped

HDD skip

Test setting:
CPU test time: Long, load 100%
RAM test time: Long


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
BlackOmega: Put the drives in your system non-RAID. Run HDTach. Hook them up as RAID0 and repartition. Run HDTach again. Then go back and install Windows on them and sell the ATA.

Well herein lies the problem Blitz. The CFX board does not recognize SATA drives individually, regardless if they're plugged in to the ULi or Sil ports. Heres the really odd part, it will recognize them when theyre configured in a RAID array.








So me trying to RAID these drives is more of an experiment with this board. Because if that doesn't work, I'm stuck using the ATA. And this one is horrible. This is the drive that originally came with my Dell back in 2000. So it's a whopping 40gb. I upgraded the Dell a long time ago to a 400GB Ultra ATA drive. My parents have the dell now and if all else fails I'm going to be retrieving that 400GB drive and put this one back in, as I dont think they'll _ever_ even come close to using 40GB.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Too funny, I left the house this morning with S&M running thinking it would be done in a few hours. I got home about 9:30pm or so and it was still running. Whoops









S&M(r) 1.9.1

Start:23.03.2009 (Monday) 8:56
Stop: 23.03.2009 (Monday) 21:51

Processor # 0:
Cache L1 passed
Cache L2 passed
Integer passed
*FPU interrupted*
Power Supply skipped
Processor # 1:
Cache L1 passed
Cache L2 passed
Integer passed
*FPU interrupted*
Power Supply skipped

System Memory skipped

HDD skip

Test setting:
CPU test time: Long, load 100%
RAM test time: Long

Whats with that?

And speaking of S&M, had my first run in with a OC that passed S&M and failed 3dmark. Thats right boys and girls, my 3500+ @ 2800 passed S&M with flying colors (with only a 10*C delta), yet when I ran 3dm03 it locked up within 2 minutes.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Well herein lies the problem Blitz. The CFX board does not recognize SATA drives individually, regardless if they're plugged in to the ULi or Sil ports. Heres the really odd part, it will recognize them when theyre configured in a RAID array.








So me trying to RAID these drives is more of an experiment with this board. Because if that doesn't work, I'm stuck using the ATA. And this one is horrible. This is the drive that originally came with my Dell back in 2000. So it's a whopping 40gb. I upgraded the Dell a long time ago to a 400GB Ultra ATA drive. My parents have the dell now and if all else fails I'm going to be retrieving that 400GB drive and put this one back in, as I dont think they'll _ever_ even come close to using 40GB.

OK this is wierd, You guys are haveing issues with ULI chipsets on new boards?

Nvidia bought ULI 2 years ago.








I thought it was to bury the (can't remember chipset number now







) Ohh which they did btw.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah Hueristic; there was a ULi chipset (number escapes me right now) that was popular to pair with the ATi CrossfireXpress 3200. My Abit (AT8-32x), the Asus A8R32, and DFI offerings (UT CFX3200) all have them. With the Abit and Asus, they tend to work fine, sporadic driver support aside. With the CFX3200, the board was apparently also plagued with bad traces going to the chipset.

BlackOmega: In the southbridge control, what HDD access mode do you have it set to? Native IDE? Legacy IDE? RAID?


----------



## N2Gaming

Omega I don't know if this will make any diff or if you even have the option but did you try selecting to run your sata in sata mode instead of raid mode??? You should have the option in the bios.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Yeah Hueristic; there was a ULi chipset (number escapes me right now) that was popular to pair with the ATi CrossfireXpress 3200. My Abit (AT8-32x), the Asus A8R32, and DFI offerings (UT CFX3200) all have them. With the Abit and Asus, they tend to work fine, sporadic driver support aside. With the CFX3200, the board was apparently also plagued with bad traces going to the chipset.

BlackOmega: In the southbridge control, what HDD access mode do you have it set to? Native IDE? Legacy IDE? RAID?

Ill have to check to see what its set to. And the chipset is ULi M1575 IIRC. It seems as this is the only board with the ULi chipset to have these problems. And :turd:bag nvidia buying ULi up just to bury a better tech than their own. :swearing:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Omega I don't know if this will make any diff or if you even have the option but did you try selecting to run your sata in sata mode instead of raid mode??? You should have the option in the bios.

N2, I honestly dont remember. It's been a while since I tinkered around with it. But within the next few days (hopefully) I'll have all that sorted out.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, ULi M1575 is the southbridge. The SATA-I ports are provided via Silicon Image 3114 SATA.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Regarding the DFI LANParty UT CFX3200-DR, it's possible to run a single SATA drive off of the ULi SATA controller (SATAII). Though there are reports that this is also possible to do with the Silicon Image SATA controller (SATAI), I have never been able to do that myself. And this is not from a lack of trying, testing, and downright begging for a step-by-step procedure on how to do it (either here on OCN or on other forums).

Most people who are happy with their CFX3200s are the really hardcore types who run RAID arrays as a matter of course. They also tend to run Raptor drives (not the vaunted VelociRaptors, mind you, but their earlier forbears), and they do so in RAID 0 from the Silicon Image controller.

The CFX3200 is the only motherboard that has ever frustrated me on any level. Because I didn't have duplicate drives to run with any RAID at the time I ran the CFX3200, I was forced to use the ULi controller. Let's just say that that was not a happy experience and led to me feeling a bit burnt-out with overclocking actively.

I'm hopeful to very soon return to the CFX3200 and do it "properly" now, i.e., with 2 HDDs in a RAID array on the Silicon Image controller. I am optimistic that this single step will sidestep all the bad behaviors that this motherboard has exhibited thus far whilst it has been in my hands.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Omega I don't know if this will make any diff or if you even have the option but did you try selecting to run your sata in sata mode instead of raid mode??? You should have the option in the bios.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 

BlackOmega: In the southbridge control, what HDD access mode do you have it set to? Native IDE? Legacy IDE? RAID?

Well guys I just looked around in the BIOS for any of those options and there doesn't seem to be anything like that anywhere. This BIOS is definitely different than the Nvidia chipsets I'm used to. Theres options like SB drive strength







No idea what that does.
Ill have to look around some more.


----------



## Hueristic

This is all the info I can find on this, It's not even on the ULI wiki page???

Originally, the SB450/SB460 was highly flawed in the USB design and lacking in cutting edge features as compared to nVidia's counterpart which resulted in low sales. *The ULi 1575 Southbridge was the other preferred Southbridge until nVidia took over ULI.*

This is my Favorite Uli chipset and one of the best of all time in my opinion!

M1695 PCI Express, AGP, HyperTransport for the Athlon 64. I ran full speed AGP and PCI-E on my ASROCK that I have clocked AT 300HTT. I'll never sell this board!
*This is when I ran AGP Primary ATI and PCI-E secondary for physics -- first in the world as far as I know*
























Well I'm thinking If the drives are not being detected in the bios then you should roll back the bios (hopefully finding a bios that isn't crippled). *I would not put it past Nvidia to corrupt the code*. And SIS is the bottom rung chipset company so their chipsets are really not desired to use when there is an alternative.

Sorry if you guys already know all this I'm pretty Foggy today.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

BlackOmega, perhaps you can begin your journey towards understanding the CFX3200-DR by perusing this first.









You can also look at this thread for a bit more illumination on the frustration that is the CFX3200-DR.









Someday soon, I hope to unlock the secrets of this board.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
This is all the info I can find on this, It's not even on the ULI wiki page???

Originally, the SB450/SB460 was highly flawed in the USB design and lacking in cutting edge features as compared to nVidia's counterpart which resulted in low sales. *The ULi 1575 Southbridge was the other preferred Southbridge until nVidia took over ULI.*

This is my Favorite Uli chipset and one of the best of all time in my opinion!

Well I'm thinking If the drives are not being detected in the bios then you should roll back the bios (hopefully finding a bios that isn't crippled). *I would not put it past Nvidia to corrupt the code*. And SIS is the bottom rung chipset company so their chipsets are really not desired to use when there is an alternative.

Sorry if you guys already know all this I'm pretty Foggy today.

Thanx Hue







and it's quite alright about being foggy, I know I spent the better part of the last 3 days in a haze myself thanks to vicodin and darvocet









And I too wouldn't put it past nvidia to do some :turd: like that. They disabled the SLI support for all of the ULi based boards. I actually sent them a trouble ticket asking if it still supported it or not. Bastards :swearing:

As for a BIOS, unless I get it straight from DFI I don't even wanna mess with it. I'm not very trusting when it comes to software that could bork some of my ~ functioning hardware.


----------



## Blitz6804

Again BlackOmega, as far as it appears, the issues with the CFX 3200 are not due to the BIOS. If this were the case, we would expect Abit and Asus to also have a problem. Yes, driver support in Vista is shoddy for all three. That is to be expected as nVidia does not like to play nice with ATi. (Remember my nForce3 bug.) However, Joe has told me that he has seen rumors of bad traces on many of the DFI boards that hold back their full potential. Whether or not this is true or if I just have a shoddy memory is to be determined by Joe I suppose.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Again BlackOmega, as far as it appears, the issues with the CFX 3200 are not due to the BIOS. If this were the case, we would expect Abit and Asus to also have a problem. Yes, driver support in Vista is shoddy for all three. That is to be expected as nVidia does not like to play nice with ATi. (Remember my nForce3 bug.) However, Joe has told me that he has seen rumors of bad traces on many of the DFI boards that hold back their full potential. Whether or not this is true or if I just have a shoddy memory is to be determined by Joe I suppose.

Nah, you got it right, Blitz. I have indeed read of reports/rumors of some CFX3200-DRs being plagued by bad traces to/from the ULi SATA controller chip. (As soon as I find the relevant forum thread -- again from a non-OCN source -- I'll post a link here.)

Part of the problem is that it is sporadic; only some of these motherboards were afflicted with SATA-based issues which made the motherboard as stable as Britney Spears. It makes no difference whatsoever whether or not the board is running an overclock or is completely on default settings.

But the issue IS a real one; too many users have reported it, and I've seen it myself. The question is, is it a problem with nVidia sabotaging the chipset when they acquired ULi (I don't think this is the case, to be honest, since this would mean ALL CFX3200s would be relegated to the junkyard), or is it a manufacturing-level defect?


----------



## N2Gaming

I am including a couple of the A8N32 SLI Deluxe becuase I never did before now.

Don't buy this mobo. It's going back to the seller out of warranty w/defects








In this pic you can see the defective PCIe x16 slot w/a pin not where it should be








So I get the package and have itchy fingers at this point.








Then I open the box and was happy w/all the accessories minus the user manual it was suppose to have.








Here is the Official Driver and Utilities disk.








Here is the validating Venus Sticker on the Mobo. There is no mistaken it. I got a Venus POS.
















Here is some glue on the back side of the mobo.








Here is the crack I was talking about.








I think this cap is leaking or something leaked onto the mobo while it was running. Prolly the glue that's on the back side.








Here are some close ups


----------



## txtmstrjoe

N2G, it makes me angry to see someone abuse a Venus like that. :swearing:

I feel bad for your luck, my friend. May Karma be unkind to the seller of that garbage.


----------



## Blitz6804

I do not know what that white stuff is, but I doubt it is a leaking capacitor. Venus motherboards are unique by their solid capacitors. Id est, they cannot leak by definition. Might have been something else the previous owner did to it however.

Joe: It makes me angry to see someone abuse ANY technology like that. In my opinion, this should be the last motherboard they ever own. People who have bought from me know me; stuff comes like new in factory packaging 99/100.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Good points, Blitz.

Perhaps the cap didn't leak, but just burst?


----------



## BlackOmega

Looks like someone fried the board and tried to fix it, rather poorly at that. I bet that white stuff is flux.

EDIT: +2 imaginary rep for you Joe for the links. If the CFX was made right it would've been one awesome board.


----------



## Blitz6804

I am thinking it is some other foreign substance on the board. The question is... what? (Simulpost FTL: Flux is a possibility I suppose. Knocked the bottle over while getting flux for an unrelated solder? Poor clean job?) Can anyone verify my idea to clean it as safe:

Coffee filter or Kimwipes plus 100% acetone; next to no pressure. Wait at least 30 minutes to ensure total evaporation and no chance of a short.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I am thinking it is some other foreign substance on the board. The question is... what? (Simulpost FTL: Flux is a possibility I suppose. Knocked the bottle over while getting flux for an unrelated solder? Poor clean job?) Can anyone verify my idea to clean it as safe:

Coffee filter or Kimwipes plus 100% acetone; next to no pressure. Wait at least 30 minutes to ensure total evaporation and no chance of a short.

I wouldn't use acetone on anything plastic. It has a tendency to disolve it from my experience. 90% Isopropyl alcohol only I'd say.


----------



## Blitz6804

That is true, acetone can dissolve polystyrene. My theory was though that the average motherboard is likely polyvinyl chloride or polypropylene based solely on texture and rigidity. Perhaps test it in an area where there is no traces to be sure beforehand? My theory was the IPA is conductive, acetone is not. Further, acetone is a more powerful solvent more likely able to remove gunk than IPA.

NOTE: It is also more likely to remove glue for the same reason...


----------



## Hueristic

I looks to me like someone had a watercooling setup on it and got a leak. The pci-e is an easy fix. The crack may or may not have ruined the traces, Traces can expand (they are metal) How much did you pay and is he offering full refund? I think that board is salvageable. But is it worth the effort.

And did the seller have it posted as working not doa or as as is? Just from reading his auctions I can tell he tries to boot a board before posting to sell.


----------



## Hueristic

SRY double post. We used acetone at GE for our board level repairs (well I did, I was the only one at that site).


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
I looks to me like someone had a watercooling setup on it and got a leak. The pci-e is an easy fix. The crack may or may not have ruined the traces, Traces can expand (they are metal) How much did you pay and is he offering full refund? I think that board is salvageable. But is it worth the effort.

And did the seller have it posted as working not doa or as as is? Just from reading his auctions I can tell he tries to boot a board before posting to sell.

Here is the sellers post on ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...:X:AAQ:US:1123

He sold is as is no warranty. How ever I have emails from him stating that the boad does not appear to have any thing wrong w/it other then a cold boot problem.

I powered it w/out the cpu/ram/vga and it does power on and stay on. I'm just not about to kill a cpu atm trying to see if I can get it to post.:swearing:


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Here is the sellers post on ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...:X:AAQ:US:1123

He sold is as is no warranty. How ever I have emails from him stating that the boad does not appear to have any thing wrong w/it other then a cold boot problem.

I powered it w/out the cpu/ram/vga and it does power on and stay on. I'm just not about to kill a cpu atm trying to see if I can get it to post.:swearing:

Well if he sold it as is I think you're S.O.L. on the return, as it was clearly stated that there was something wrong with it.
If I were you, I'd see what that white stuff is. Does it come off easily with nothing more than your finger? How about ISP? As for the crack it doesn't even look all that bad, I wouldnt put a screw in that particular hole though.
Then Id stick your 3500 in it with 1 stick of crappy ram and see if it POSTs. I'm actually thinking that it might.
Good luck,


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Here is the sellers post on ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...:X:AAQ:US:1123

He sold is as is no warranty. How ever I have emails from him stating that the boad does not appear to have any thing wrong w/it other then a cold boot problem.

I powered it w/out the cpu/ram/vga and it does power on and stay on. I'm just not about to kill a cpu atm trying to see if I can get it to post.:swearing:

Well this is obviously Bull****!

Quote:

This one is in VERY good shape physically
But you got it for 26 bucks +shipping so I'd clean it up and solder that pcie leg back on(It looks highly accessible) and boot the puppy. Oh check the traces across the crack too. Even if the surface traces are broke you can fix them and the internal ones should be fine.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I powered it w/out the cpu/ram/vga and it does power on and stay on. I'm just not about to kill a cpu atm trying to see if I can get it to post.:swearing:











Don't worry it won't kill a cpu. But clean that garbage off it first. Use acetone and a toothbrush and then I'd run it through the dishwasher with a non abrasive like fantastic or 409. Make sure in the dishwasher the board is facing down and then let it sit a few days upside down to dry out. then hit it with air being especially careful to get the bus slots/mem slots and socket dried out. Then rough up any pins that look tarnished to bare metal with a small blade and I bet it will word well for you and then if the traces are bad on those peripherals that you need we can turn to those.


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks guys. The pcie was on the A8N32 sli deluxe that's going back to the seller tomorrow. I just got the ok to return it from paypal. Omega as Huerist said, it's BS the board does not look in good shape... so Paypal will have my back on this one I'm sure. I paid over $40.00 delivered. In my eye's that is just too much for any defective mobo w/a crack on it w/all the glue on the back covering the pins on one of the ram traces. I was also thinking the white stuff could be the top layer of film that they use in the PCB process and when the board got so hot it just flashed and vaporized while it was bubbling. IDK but it sure looks F'd up









I'm not worried too much I knew going in that it had to be some thing stupid for the board to be for sale for so cheap and coming from a mobo retailer. Hmm.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I was also thinking the white stuff could be the top layer of film that they use in the PCB process and when the board got so hot it just flashed and vaporized while it was bubbling.

No it's not, I'm pretty positive it's from a antifreeze type spill. also that sometimes will not show up for a long time if the board is not throughly cleaned. The glue is tough to figure out maybe he was trying to put a standoff on there? It's on the bottom so no danger there.

But do what you want . If you can get it to post that is enough to double your money if you clean it up. But I wouldn't boot without getting that spill off it as that chalky substance can have a high mineral content!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
No it's not, I'm pretty positive it's from a antifreeze type spill. also that sometimes will not show up for a long time if the board is not throughly cleaned. The glue is tough to figure out maybe he was trying to put a standoff on there? It's on the bottom so no danger there.

But do what you want . If you can get it to post that is enough to double your money if you clean it up. But I wouldn't boot without getting that spill off it as that chalky substance can have a high mineral content!

I'm gonna hold off on any mods from it's current state untill I hear back from the seller. I'm not even going to put any effort into it untill I know what all my options are. I would like to eventually try it but I'll wait for the sellers response...


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I'm gonna hold off on any mods from it's current state untill I hear back from the seller. I'm not even going to put any effort into it untill I know what all my options are. I would like to eventually try it but I'll wait for the sellers response...

Well if you decide to send it back I have dibs on buying it from you!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Well if you decide to send it back I have dibs on buying it from you!

Best case senario the seller will give me some sort of refund due to the physical description not being as stated in the for sale listing on ebay.














Sell it ha ha ha














are you kidding. I wan't to see what this thing can do if it's not entirely dead. I mean if I can get it to post I think the worst thing would be the south bridge is dead. This tends to happen w/these expert boards.







I have a expert board w/a dead SB


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Best case senario the seller will give me some sort of refund due to the physical description not being as stated in the for sale listing on ebay.














Sell it ha ha ha














are you kidding. I wan't to see what this thing can do if it's not entirely dead. I mean if I can get it to post I think the worst thing would be the south bridge is dead. This tends to happen w/these expert boards.







I have a expert board w/a dead SB









:swearing::swearing::swearing::swearing::swearing: :swearing:

NO, sell it to me, IT'll kill your cpu it's dead you can't possibley revive it! forget what I said earlier, I was lying!!!!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I finally got the Venus mobo and it is cracked. has some clear glue on it and a damaged cap. double

I don't know about you guys but it's pretty difficult to crack a board. There has been a few times at work where I've tried to break a board by kicking it, slamming it on the edge of a desk ect ect and I couldn't even damage it.

N2Gaming, Where exactly is the damaged cap? I looked over the images several times and the solid caps look fine. Is it possible that the "white residue" is just dust? If it was liquid from a H2O kit wouldn't there be spill marks that looked like they ran down the board









Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Too funny, I left the house this morning with S&M running thinking it would be done in a few hours. I got home about 9:30pm or so and it was still running. Whoops









Guardian, I guess it's safe to say your current overclock is stable to your standards. Good job!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
So me trying to RAID these drives is more of an experiment with this board. Because if that doesn't work, I'm stuck using the ATA.

BlackOmega, if all else fails you could try picking up a PCI Sata controller. The decent ones are capable of doing RAID 0/1/JBOD.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I do not know what that white stuff is, but I doubt it is a leaking capacitor. Venus motherboards are unique by their solid capacitors. Id est, they cannot leak by definition. Might have been something else the previous owner did to it however.

Blitz, technically they are not suppose to but I have a 1950Pro that was being thrown away at work because it had bulged caps...five to be exact. I believe those were solid capacitors. It was obvious a surge destroyed that card.

Good luck guys


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
:swearing::swearing::swearing::swearing::swearing: :swearing:

NO, sell it to me, IT'll kill your cpu it's dead you can't possibley revive it! forget what I said earlier, I was lying!!!!


N2 sell it to Hue that board is DEAD I tell you!!! DEAD!!!! NOthing you can do will resurect it.









EDIT:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, if all else fails you could try picking up a PCI Sata controller. The decent ones are capable of doing RAID 0/1/JBOD.

I've thought about that. But since I'm going Am3, hopefully REALLY soon, the board might just wind up on eBay or as a folding rig. That is if I can get 2 nvidia cards to fold on it







. If not, Ill just move all the good parts back over to the NF4 board fold on that, sell the CFX board and keep the other stuff around for backup.
It's kind of a shame really that the board has the defect.







All the features it has, it would've been a very nice base for a good 939 platform.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
:swearing::swearing::swearing::swearing::swearing: :swearing:

NO, sell it to me, IT'll kill your cpu it's dead you can't possibley revive it! forget what I said earlier, I was lying!!!!

OK I'll bend over backwords for you or wait make it grab my toes for the pizza dough rolling (edited). as if









Good effort on your part and I do appriciate all your input.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
I don't know about you guys but it's pretty difficult to crack a board. There has been a few times at work where I've tried to break a board by kicking it, slamming it on the edge of a desk ect ect and I couldn't even damage it.

N2Gaming, Where exactly is the damaged cap? I looked over the images several times and the solid caps look fine. Is it possible that the "white residue" is just dust? If it was liquid from a H2O kit wouldn't there be spill marks that looked like they ran down the board








Good luck guys

The damaged cap ended up being an optical illusion from the white stuff on the cap. It does appear as if someting ran from the top side of the cpu accross the yelloow cpu bracket and down just around the cpu area so it prolly is H2O solution. easy clean as long as no parts got shorted and fried.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
N2 sell it to Hue that board is DEAD I tell you!!! DEAD!!!! NOthing you can do will resurect it.









uh ha. put me up high on a pedistol so you can pull me back down. LOL


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
It's kind of a shame really that the board has the defect.







All the features it has, it would've been a very nice base for a good 939 platform.

BlackOmega, I believe the only person that is left to debunk this board is the all mighty and powerful dark lord of the sith....Lord Joe









Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
The damaged cap ended up being an optical illusion from the white stuff on the cap. It does appear as if someting ran from the top side of the cpu accross the yelloow cpu bracket and down just around the cpu area so it prolly is H2O solution. easy clean as long as no parts got shorted and fried.









N2Gaming, in that case HOPEFULLY the spill was when the machine was off. Water shouldn't damage anything if every thing was powered off and disconnected (via power cable).

Are you tempted to hook it up and turn it on?

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, I believe the only person that is left to debunk this board is the all mighty and powerful dark lord of the sith....Lord Joe









N2Gaming, in that case HOPEFULLY the spill was when the machine was off. Water shouldn't damage anything if every thing was powered off and disconnected (via power cable).

Are you tempted to hook it up and turn it on?

Good luck

well I already powered it w/o cpu ram and vga just a blank baord and psu. It did power on and and show all 4 debug lights and stay on but did not give any beep codes. So I don't know just yet. These 939 chips are getting harder and harder to come by. I'll keep my eye out for a decent priced 939 chip of any spd just for testing in this mobo. I don't want to kill the 3500+ if the circuits are scrubbed but Hueristic claims it wont so I just have to bite the bullet one of these days and try it. I have more then enough bios chips, so I can try to flash to the veus bios if it is any different then the regular expert bios. I don't know about that does any one know if it is the same bios or not???


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, I believe the only person that is left to debunk this board is the all mighty and powerful dark lord of the sith....Lord Joe









Don't count me out yet, bud.







I'm still getting to know all of the quirks of this mamma jamma.
I have noticed that it does not seem to like my hyperx ram though. When I first powered it up it was auto set to the 166 divider. I manually set it to 200, but since then I've been getting random lockups even in the BIOS. So yet another thing I need to swap back over.








I guess while I'm at it, I'll just swap the HDDs' over for the "CFX RAID Experiment"









Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
uh ha. put me up high on a pedistol so you can pull me back down. LOL

I am just a worthless liar. I am just an imbecile.
I will only complicate you. trust in me and fall as well.
I will find a center in you. I will chew it up and leave.
I will work to elevate you, just enough to bring you down.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, I believe the only person that is left to debunk this board is the all mighty and powerful dark lord of the sith....Lord Joe









Oh sure, put all the pressure on me, thlnk3r...


















I'm afraid the only definitive verdict we can make on the CFX3200-DR is that it is subject to that catch-all rule that we overclockers all live by: YMMV = Your Mileage May Vary.

I seem to remember RAMDAC owns one of these, and his is a killer board. There are also many reports of killer CFX3200s out there. But for every super clocker, you have stories of boards like BlackOmega's and mine.

I'd like to make mine work properly, though. Though RAID is an expensive option, most CFX3200 owners are happy with theirs if they run a RAID array on it. I'm keen to see if that will indeed be the case with mine as well.

Time will tell...


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I am just a worthless liar. I am just an imbecile.
I will only complicate you. trust in me and fall as well.
I will find a center in you. I will chew it up and leave.
I will work to elevate you, just enough to bring you down.









Yip yip yip yip yip yip...









The white stuff is the same clear glue that is on the back of the mobo. I can see clear shiny/glossy glue in some areas after a more up close & personal view w/my eyes that are getting worse on a daily basis. I tell you what, I'm gonna have to get me a big magnifying glass soon. Especially if I want to work on this mobo.

So it looks as if the glue was spilled while it was on or something like that. Maybe not but is there a way to tell if this glue is conductive. If the glue was wet then it prolly acted as a conductor. This is my guess and the heat from the cpu circuits cuase the glues melecular struckture to change and that is why it has the white appearance to it. It also looks as if some of the glue has alrady been scraped off I can see stroke marks from where there use to be glue. So some one prolly tried to clean it up and fix it then after a cpu or two decided to cut their losses.


----------



## AllenG

i've got a 939 sempron 3000+... i'll sell it, or if your down to swap an item with me for a bit for some testing i'd be game for that too. You know what i need.







lol


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Yip yip yip yip yip yip...









The white stuff is the same clear glue that is on the back of the mobo. I can see clear shiny/glossy glue in some areas after a more up close & personal view w/my eyes that are getting worse on a daily basis. I tell you what, I'm gonna have to get me a big magnifying glass soon. Especially if I want to work on this mobo.

So it looks as if the glue was spilled while it was on or something like that. Maybe not but is there a way to tell if this glue is conductive. If the glue was wet then it prolly acted as a conductor. This is my guess and the heat from the cpu circuits cuase the glues melecular struckture to change and that is why it has the white appearance to it. It also looks as if some of the glue has alrady been scraped off I can see stroke marks from where there use to be glue. So some one prolly tried to clean it up and fix it then after a cpu or two decided to cut their losses.


















Im starting to think that whoever actually removed the glue effed the board up. Not that the glue got on there on the first place.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Im starting to think that whoever actually removed the glue effed the board up. Not that the glue got on there on the first place.

Your prolly right there Omega. I found another hairline crack on the back side while removing the glue back there. my guess is the Jack A$$ tried to pull on it too much and cracked some traces. So it's possible that the traces are cracked in the middle layers as well. I'll just clean up all the glue and hope for the best.









I also compared the two mobo's that is the Expert and the Venus and they are a little bit different in the layout of the capacitors so I don't know if it would be so easy to just swap out the components if this board truly is wasted...


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I seem to remember RAMDAC owns one of these, and his is a killer board. There are also many reports of killer CFX3200s out there. But for every super clocker, you have stories of boards like BlackOmega's and mine.

Right you are Joe.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Going to do another run in S&M and make sure! it's not on "Loop"


----------



## Blitz6804

I wonder why it was still running when you got in then. Can you give us a picture of the RAM page and the setting page? Maybe you have more tests turned on than usual? I am curious; I want S&M to test as much as it can get its hands on.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I wonder why it was still running when you got in then. Can you give us a picture of the RAM page and the setting page? Maybe you have more tests turned on than usual? I am curious; I want S&M to test as much as it can get its hands on.


I deleted the files and starting over, I'm thinking it was a "glitch" of some sort. All the dates read 2008. I set all tests on "long" and disabled the HDD. I don't think S&M has a 13+ hour test unless I had it on loop and didn't notice. Either way I don't think it was testing properly.


----------



## Blitz6804

Joe: When (if?) you get a chance, can you share with us your findings on what the most severe settings are on S&M? I am asking about the ones NOT found in the wizard. (See marked screen cap.)










For those curious, these are the settings I run when I am doing SOLELY an FPU test. Nothing else. This is the best test I have found for finding your maximum CPU operating temperature. It is also a great way to cure TIM: run FPU for a half hour, leave off a half hour, run for a half hour, leave off a half hour, run a half hour, shut off for a day. After about 3-4 days of this, you have fully cured the TIM in a fraction of the time AS5 calls for. (Well, maybe it is not fully cured, as that supposedly calls for 200 hours, but it certainly brings you down to the minimum temperature in less time.)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Re: S&M, I don't disable any tests bar the HDD tests.

I'm blanking out on the test duration and priority settings at the moment; Blitz, could you post a screen shot of that part of the test? My best recollection at the moment is that I set the test duration to "Long" and the intensity to "Maximum;" my terminology may not be precise, though.

Thanks.


----------



## Blitz6804

That is long / maximum from the wizard. I am asking about the boxes outlined in Red. They are presently at their default values. I am curious if you have tried experimenting with them at all.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
That is long / maximum from the wizard. I am asking about the boxes outlined in Red. They are presently at their default values. I am curious if you have tried experimenting with them at all.

Blitz, I tried to search around for some documentation that might possibly cover some of the settings in the application but I couldn't locate hardly anything









Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


That is long / maximum from the wizard. I am asking about the boxes outlined in Red. They are presently at their default values. I am curious if you have tried experimenting with them at all.


Never messed with them, as I'd said in my previous post. (So whatever the default settings are for them -- enabled or disabled --, that's how I always run S&M.)

I figure that, since S&M is the most brutal test I know of anyway, and it's the final test to validate an overclock's stability (for me, until my recent thoughts on the subject), I just go full-force with the testing.

Except the HDD tests, of course.

Anyway, I hope this answers your questions.


----------



## Blitz6804

I am curious if any make it more brutal; this is what I was looking into. I know you are the King of Testing and thought you might have fiddled just for the ROFLs of it.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I am curious if any make it more brutal; this is what I was looking into. I know you are the King of Testing and thought you might have fiddled just for the ROFLs of it.


To be honest, I never entertained the notion of making the default test any more brutal. My old Corsairs broke, as weak in the silicon knees as they were, so it honestly never crossed my mind to want to break another set of parts just to see if this test could be any more punishing.









For sure, I certainly don't want to be the guinea pig for such investigations.


----------



## nategr8ns

wow, it's been three pages!








N2, too bad about that venus. You definitely deserve a refund. Hows the paypal stuff going?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


wow, it's been three pages!








N2, too bad about that venus. You definitely deserve a refund. Hows the paypal stuff going?


Thanks for asking nate,

Well Paypal is offering me a full refund for the A8N32 SLI Deluxe. I just have to return it. That means I will be out of pocket for the return S/H charges. Good thing USPS is cheap...

The Venus is in limbo ATM I am trying to work out something w/the seller so that I don't take a complete loss. He has already offered me a full refund if I return it but I will still be out the shipping charges of almost $20.00

I'll keep you all posted one way or the other how ever it goes down.


----------



## Blitz6804

Joe: "Bawk bawk bawk..." First you tell us you will be reducing your emphasis of S&M, then you tell us you are afraid to test something. What is next, telling us you are giving up the hobby of overclocking? Perhaps getting rid of your gaming rig for a low-power, low-noise officebox? Maybe an Atom?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Joe: "Bawk bawk bawk..." First you tell us you will be reducing your emphasis of S&M, then you tell us you are afraid to test something. What is next, telling us you are giving up the hobby of overclocking?

Hmm... The thought HAS occurred to me, to be honest.

No time, especially lately.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Perhaps getting rid of your gaming rig for a low-power, low-noise officebox? Maybe an Atom?

thlnk3r has already done similar things. I may simply just continue to be his apprentice and follow his example.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Hmm... The thought HAS occurred to me, to be honest.

No time, especially lately.









thlnk3r has already done similar things. I may simply just continue to be his apprentice and follow his example.

















&









That's one for me and one for the rest of the club...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Perhaps getting rid of your gaming rig for a low-power, low-noise officebox? Maybe an Atom?

Blitz, just because one decides to set up a "lower-end" machine doesn't mean the hobby all of a sudden stops


----------



## Blitz6804

Does this mean you are going Phase Change thlnk3r? I wonder how high a Thoroughbred could clock under phase...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, just because one decides to setup a "lower-end" machine doesn't mean the hobby all of a sudden stops










Wasn't that originally the point of overclocking in the first place anyway? Making lower-end parts perform as well as more expensive parts?

But, yeah, considering the lack of time I've got to devote to this group, this community, and this hobby, I might hand the reins of this group over to someone else. A sense of obligation weighs on me that the contributions should be worth the responsibility assumed or assigned.

I don't know who yet... but it's certainly one of those thoughts circulating in my head...


----------



## BlackOmega




----------



## GuardianOdin

Ok, My test for stable RAM ....and not LOOPED!


----------



## Hueristic

NICE G.O.!

Question, If you were to get a HS today for that opty what would you get? I'm limited to 280 with my current HS.


----------



## loony

Ive been contemplating joining for ages. I think i am now.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=534056


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
NICE G.O.!

Question, If you were to get a HS today for that opty what would you get? I'm limited to 280 with my current HS.

The highest I have reached with the Expert has been 380. I'm not sure if better cooling would help but it would be nice.

EDIT: Were you talking about the Bus Speed or RAM lol

Quote:


Originally Posted by *loony* 
Ive been contemplating joining for ages. I think i am now.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=534056

Hey Loony, Blitz will have you up on the list next time he drops in and welcome


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *loony* 
Ive been contemplating joining for ages. I think i am now.

WELCOME and here's some pics of a 775 BTX HS I mounted on my lapped (nephews sweat!







) 3200+ saturday. It works well Got the HTT to 300 easily when it wasn't getting past 240 with the volcano. The 939 mount can be used perfectly with this HS.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Please welcome our newest member, loony!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Ok, My test for stable RAM ....and not LOOPED!


GuardianOdin, awesome memory overclock +1

That read speed is faster then DDR2 800!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


The highest I have reached with the Expert has been 380. I'm not sure if better cooling would help but it would be nice.


GuardianOdin, are you referring to 380HTT? That is a very nice HTT overclock. The only other person that I know of that reached that speed was Pioneer. This was on the MSI board that I wish I never sent to him









Quote:



Originally Posted by *loony*


Ive been contemplating joining for ages. I think i am now.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=534056


Loony, welcome to the club. I've added you to the roster. Do you have plans on overclocking your 3500+?

Hueristic, is the BTX cooler from a Dell system? Good job on getting it to fit. What are the temperatures like?

Good luck guys


----------



## BlackOmega

Welcome loony!









Hey nice work on that lap job Hue
















Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


GuardianOdin, are you referring to 380HTT? That is a very nice HTT overclock. The only other person that I know of that reached that speed was Pioneer. This was on the MSI board that I wish I never sent to him










 Hey :swearing: What about my 400 HTT on my DFI NF4? It actually hit 403 somewhat stable. @ 400 it was orthos stable for a few hours if I remember right.

Odin nice job on the RAM OC


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
GuardianOdin, awesome memory overclock +1

That read speed is faster then DDR2 800!

GuardianOdin, are you referring to 380HTT? That is a very nice HTT overclock. The only other person that I know of that reached that speed was Pioneer. This was on the MSI board that I wish I never sent to him









Loony, welcome to the club. I've added you to the roster. Do you have plans on overclocking your 3500+?

Hueristic, is the BTX cooler from a Dell system? Good job on getting it to fit. What are the temperatures like?

Good luck guys

Thanks Think, Yes I was referring to the HTT. The system seems a bit more stable at lower CPU Vcore now with the new RAM.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Welcome loony!









Hey nice work on that lap job Hue
















Hey :swearing: What about my 400 HTT on my DFI NF4? It actually hit 403 somewhat stable. @ 400 it was orthos stable for a few hours if I remember right.

Odin nice job on the RAM OC

















would be nice to see that S&M Stable!


----------



## loony

Thanks for the welcome guys.

I did have it overclocked to 2.4ghz but i took it back to stock and i forgot why lol but 2.5ghz was the furthurest i took it on stock everything, but it wasnt fully stable. I am getting another 939 proc, i think its 3800+. When i get it, i will do some nice overclocks on it. I don't like the mobo im using currently though because it wont let me regulate the voltage, and my Epox Nforce 3 ultra board won't run anything USB for some odd reason :s


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


GuardianOdin, awesome memory overclock +1

That read speed is faster then *[some]* DDR2 800!


I fixed this.

DDR-500 in a 1:1 configuration gets around 8000 MBps. That he was able to get an asynchronous clock to get back up to that speed is outstanding; most of the time, when you go with asynchronous RAM, you are killing your bandwidth. (My DDR-400 equaling about 5300 MBps for 4 GB for example.) It will clearly beat a single-channel DDR2-800 memory configuration, which is limited to 8000 MBps, but the talented could get a dual-channel DDR2-800 memory configuration to be higher. That does not make GuardianOdin's efforts de minimis however. That his system, as old as naysayers make it, can still hang with a lot of AM2 systems is proof positive of both how good the 939 platform was and how lame the AM2 platform is.

loony: I will be adding you to the offsite roster sometime today.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*









would be nice to see that S&M Stable!


 I cant remember If I ran S&M or not. I think I was just running Orthos, which it was totally stable with. No errors or anything. 
The odd thing is that I did it with my Kingston Hyper X ram, which the NF4 ultra board is the only one of the 3 that I've had it on where it actually worked how it was supposed to. But it _still_ can't seem to tolerate anything over 200MHz







.

I've tried using my Corsair XMS in it, but for some reason it wont go nearly as high







which is odd. Because when I run the COrsair there's only 2 DIMMs occupied with the Kingston all 4 are. Weird.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *loony*


Thanks for the welcome guys.

I did have it overclocked to 2.4ghz but i took it back to stock and i forgot why lol but 2.5ghz was the furthurest i took it on stock everything, but it wasnt fully stable. I am getting another 939 proc, i think its 3800+. When i get it, i will do some nice overclocks on it. I don't like the mobo im using currently though because it wont let me regulate the voltage, and my Epox Nforce 3 ultra board won't run anything USB for some odd reason :s


 Voltage regulation for the 3500+ is a must. While I am able to achieve 2.5 on factory voltage though (1.35v). Anything over that _needs_ considerably more. To run it @ 2750 MHz, I have to add another 0.20v. 
If I hadn't delidded it, I dont think I could run it @ that speed. With the top off @ 1.55v my load temps are in the mid 50's.


----------



## Blitz6804

Just so you know, a 3500+ E6 is good to 65Âº C @ 1.350 V.


----------



## Blitz6804

I do not know when I am going to be active again. As near as I can tell, my hard drive is in the process of trying to kill itself. Maybe it is the Motherboard, I do not know. Right now, I am in a Linux LiveCD downloading Hitachi DFT; hopefully that will shed some light on the subject. (It is like Seagate Tools, but for Hitachi/IBM drives.) The last time I shut down, it got an error saying I should run ChkDsk when I reboot. The computer has not been able to boot properly since. I was able to make it run a ChkDsk, but that came up clean. I got into Windows, was able to roll back prior to the Windows Update I did that day, and rebooted. It installed a Windows Defender update. Since then, no matter what I try doing, it boots, tells me installing updates, then restarts. It does this on normal, safe mode, and last known good configurations. So yeah... fun awaits me.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Blitz, other than the weird behavior, have you noticed any hard drive-specific symptoms (i.e., unusual noise from it) from the Hitachi?

Also, I would recommend going back to stock clocks when running any diagnostics on the HDD, especially if you suspect a possible motherboard issue instead of a hard drive going south.

Good luck.


----------



## Blitz6804

The computer has been running stock clocks for a while now. The drive has been making no funny noises, but it had taken much longer to boot since installing Windows PowerShell 1.0; lots of HDD thrashing. I am suspecting either the drive is going south and it was coincidental, or something messed up when it installed. The first reboot after it lost a graphics card.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Hueristic, is the BTX cooler from a Dell system? Good job on getting it to fit. What are the temperatures like?

YES It's the one I bought here from a dell server. Sure is best $7 bucks I ever spent, came with a 150cmf fan (proprietory) that is not needed. as you can see I used an old p3 coolermaster fan and that keeps the temps from riseing.

I really can't test the max tdp with the single core. I'll have to put the other one on my opty to push it further. But right now I have the other one on my htps (p4d 820) and haven't bother OC'ing that one yet. But I'm very impressed with it so far.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Also, I would recommend going back to stock clocks when running any diagnostics on the HDD, especially if you suspect a possible motherboard issue instead of a hard drive going south.







































Good luck on that blitz.

I had a NIB samsung 250g ata I used once to put an important file on and then moved it to another system to burn and it wouldn't even spin up.









Can't afford the data recovery right now so can't rma it until I can get the data.







Samsung is on my ***** list!!!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
The computer has been running stock clocks for a while now. The drive has been making no funny noises, but it had taken much longer to boot since installing Windows PowerShell 1.0; lots of HDD thrashing. I am suspecting either the drive is going south and it was coincidental, or something messed up when it installed. The first reboot after it lost a graphics card.

To be honest, I think it's not a hardware issue; rather, I think something got corrupted in some critical Windows files.

Either way, if you can backup your data, I'd do so at the earliest opportunity.

At any rate, good luck.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Hey :swearing: What about my 400 HTT on my DFI NF4? It actually hit 403 somewhat stable. @ 400 it was orthos stable for a few hours if I remember right.

BlackOmega, ahhh I must of missed that post. Hard keeping up with this thread while at work sometimes. Nonetheless good job! Orthos stable to me is perfectly fine.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
t will clearly beat a single-channel DDR2-800 memory configuration, which is limited to 8000 MBps, but the talented could get a dual-channel DDR2-800 memory configuration to be higher.

Blitz, I was referring to the average clock to clock speeds...not the "theoretical" speeds. That should be pretty obvious seeming you'll never see 12,00MB/s stock (6,400*2).

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Just so you know, a 3500+ E6 is good to 65Âº C @ 1.350 V.

Blitz, these processors can tolerate much more then what is sometimes advertised. In regards to your hard drive issue, are you able to get into Safe Mode and view the event viewer (eventvwr.msc)? Look under System to see if there are any reports of "bad blocks". In any case, if there are bad sectors on the drive then the Hitachi tools should report them.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I can no longer get into safe mode no. I did a quick diagnosis with gParted. gParted tells me there is a problem with the NTFS file system. There are four superfluous files and four missing files supposedly. It tells me to run "chkdsk /f" and then restart twice. I would love to, but I cannot get into Vista to do so. I will check to see if Vista has a recovery console like XP did. That might do it. I am in class now, but when I left my PC, it was running Hitachi's Disk Fitness Tool. (FDD DOS 7.0 boot disk.)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I can no longer get into safe mode no. I did a quick diagnosis with gParted. gParted tells me there is a problem with the NTFS file system. There are four superfluous files and four missing files supposedly. It tells me to run "chkdsk /f" and then restart twice. I would love to, but I cannot get into Vista to do so. I will check to see if Vista has a recovery console like XP did. That might do it. I am in class now, but when I left my PC, it was running Hitachi's Disk Fitness Tool. (FDD DOS 7.0 boot disk.)


Blitz, if there are any critical files on this drive I would immediately perform a data recover. I would worry about the diagnostic later. Not sure what utilities are available in the LiveCD for data recovery









Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

All my filed have been backed up prior to this. However, I would hate to have to reformat. Again.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
All my filed have been backed up prior to this. However, I would hate to have to reformat. Again.

You may have to low level format.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
All my filed have been backed up prior to this. However, I would hate to have to reformat. Again.

Does Vista allow a repair like XP did? I have run into NTFS file corruption from a bad OC a number of times and it was a simple XP repair that did the trick. I'm not familiar with Vista so I'm not sure.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


All my filed have been backed up prior to this. However, I would hate to have to reformat. Again.


Blitz, a reformat/reinstallation of the OS may be a good thing especially if the file system became corrupt during an overclock. On your next fresh install, I'd recommend imaging the drive. A image restore would probably save you much time in the future. When you have time, check out Acronis True Image. Western Digital offers a similar tool but I believe it only works with WD drives. Not entirely sure if Hitachi offers such a thing for free.

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I second thlnk3r's recommendation.

If you want a free drive imaging program, I've used DriveImage XML in the past with good results.


----------



## BlackOmega

I third the notion.


----------



## Blitz6804

Thlnk3r: I do not believe an unstable overclock damaged the file system. At the time the problem arose, I was at stock clocks. Hitachi's DFT says my drive is fit for work. I used the Windows Vista CD to run a Startup Recovery: no errors were found. I used the Windows Vista CD to system restore to the day prior to the problems arising. The computer appears to be working, but it is accessing the drive more than usual; I think that is just timewarp slowness. Now that I have gotten into Windows, I have scheduled a chkdsk /r to do when I reboot; let us see if that fixes it. In any event, for the next few hours, it looks like if I want a computer, it is going to have to be a Laptop and/or an Intel. (-_-)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Thlnk3r: I do not believe an unstable overclock damaged the file system. At the time the problem arose, I was at stock clocks. Hitachi's DFT says my drive is fit for work. I used the Windows Vista CD to run a Startup Recovery: no errors were found. I used the Windows Vista CD to system restore to the day prior to the problems arising. The computer appears to be working, but it is accessing the drive more than usual; I think that is just timewarp slowness. Now that I have gotten into Windows, I have scheduled a chkdsk /r to do when I reboot; let us see if that fixes it. In any event, for the next few hours, it looks like if I want a computer, it is going to have to be a Laptop and/or an Intel.


Blitz, what kind of test did you run in Hitchai's utility? How long did the diagnostic take? If you suspect the drive is failing then don't keep using it. Better safe then sorry. See if it's covered under the warranty and get a replacement. Chkdsk /r doesn't exactly fix anything. All chkdsk /r does is locate bad sectors and attempt to recover readable data.

In regards to "timewarp slowness", does that have any relation to TNG









Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I foresee an Intel in Blitz's immediate future...

At least until he gets his Hitach HDD back from RMA.

Who knows? Perhaps he might even enjoy the experience.


----------



## Blitz6804

Uhm, no... no relation. All I know about TNG is movies 7, 8, 9, and 10.

In Hitachi's Drive Fitness Test, I ran the "advanced" test. It took at least two hours; I was gone for some of it. The drive is a Hitachi Deskstar, which Newegg has a 30-day return policy on. Tomorrow it turns 13 months old. According to Hitachi's website, I am covered until 12-15-2010. The more I play around with it, it seems like it more a software issue as Joe said. Not matter how many times I install it, it keeps wanting to install the Defender update. This is why it got caught in an endless loop earlier. Now I just told it not to install that update, and it has not been kvetching at me to do so. Any luck, after the checkdisk, it should be running fine.

Joe: I use an Intel on a daily basis to take notes. I hate it. I am almost tempted to through the Merom out and go back to using my Barton as a daily laptop.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I second thlnk3r's recommendation.

If you want a free drive imaging program, I've used DriveImage XML in the past with good results.

Thanks for the link buddy! I've their their other tools but didn't know they made imageing software!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
According to Hitachi's website, I am covered until 12-15-2010. The more I play around with it, it seems like it more a software issue as Joe said.

WELL that's all good news, Glad to see you got your data all backed up as well!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
The more I play around with it, it seems like it more a software issue as Joe said. Not matter how many times I install it, it keeps wanting to install the Defender update. This is why it got caught in an endless loop earlier. Now I just told it not to install that update, and it has not been kvetching at me to do so. Any luck, after the checkdisk, it should be running fine.

Joe: I use an Intel on a daily basis to take notes. I hate it. I am almost tempted to through the Merom out and go back to using my Barton as a daily laptop.

Blitz, right on. software related issues should be an easy fix. RMAing a component is much more of pain in my opinion.

OT: Why so much hate towards Intel? I don't see how taking notes on a AMD processor would be better then on an Intel.

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Thanks for the link buddy! I've their their other tools but didn't know they made imageing software!

NP, Hue. That was one of those "gifts from the OCN gods." A long while back someone posted about that program (in another, old thread), and I tested it. Works sweet.









I only wish I hadn't gotten Acronis before I tried DriveImage XML.
















Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Joe: I use an Intel on a daily basis to take notes. I hate it. I am almost tempted to through the Merom out and go back to using my Barton as a daily laptop.

Whoa, buddy. Relax.









I didn't know/forgot about how much you use an Intel each and every day. No wonder why you're such a miserable cuss.









j/k Blitz. You know we love you.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
No wonder why you're such a miserable cuss.









j/k Blitz. You know we love you.









Nah, I really am lately. Just when you start dusting off the ashes, someone shoots a shotgun in your face. You are almost done spitting out buckshot and someone decides to drop an anvil on your toe. My life is going to heck in a shopping cart, and quite frankly, I have no clue who is driving anymore.


----------



## pez

Jeez I've fallen behind since I haven't been visiting OCN 24/7 like I used to lol.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


*I didn't know/forgot about how much you use an Intel each and every day. No wonder why you're such a miserable cuss. *


----------



## BlackOmega

Blitz did you get the CFX3200 off of Joe? And if so is it up and running?
I was curious to find out if you guys had noticed that during initial start up if the fan that is plugged in to the FAN 2 port stops while loading. Then spins back up ~ windows?

I noticed my fan stops on initial boot. Then once in windows spins back, windows freezes then I reboot. I let the fans come to a complete stop then fire it back up. And this time FAN 2 spins all the way through and guess what no freeze.

Just a quirk I noticed, today.

A little off topic, looks like my plans for AM3 are going to be postponed for a little bit longer. My H2O pump in my car started leaking today. Now instead of messing around with my rigs, Im going to have put a pump in. Thats not the bad part, I have to take out the damn timing belt in order to change it thanks to some poor engineering on Mazdas part.:swearing:


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I was curious to find out if you guys had noticed that during initial start up if the fan that is plugged in to the FAN 2 port stops while loading. Then spins back up ~ windows?

I noticed my fan stops on initial boot. Then once in windows spins back, windows freezes then I reboot. I let the fans come to a complete stop then fire it back up. And this time FAN 2 spins all the way through and guess what no freeze.


BlackOmega, this is a very strange issue. Just to clarify, Windows well actually lock up when FAN 2 begins to spin up? I do know some of the FAN ports are thermally controlled by the BIOS. Perhaps a setting or two needs adjustment but this doesn't explain why you OS is locking up during startup. Is there any errors listed in the event viewer? Are you able to completely disabled FAN 2 in the BIOS?

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, this is a very strange issue. Just to clarify, Windows well actually lock up when FAN 2 begins to spin up? I do know some of the FAN ports are thermally controlled by the BIOS. Perhaps a setting or two needs adjustment but this doesn't explain why you OS is locking up during startup. Is there any errors listed in the event viewer? Are you able to completely disabled FAN 2 in the BIOS?

Good luck









Not quite because Windows wont necessarily lock up right away.

Here is exactly down to the T what I noticed. First startup after the computer has been sitting powered down for a while. Push start button all fans spin. As the board goes through its POST and some other self check screen, Fan 2 stops spinning. Only reason I noticed this was because I have my top exhaust fan plug in to this. So I have a clear view of it. .
Anyway, it goes through the self checks then boots in to Windows. Once in Windows the fan starts back up. Windows freezes randomly, it could be during the initial boot up session or 5+ minutes later.
Then when I shut it down and reboot Fan 2 spins all the way through POST and the other self check screen and in to Windows. And the computer doesn't freeze at all after that. I've literally had it on for _days_ and it won't freeze again.

Here's a hypothesis I have: When fan 2 stops spinning it's creating a resistance on the board somewhere, creating heat on a particular trace. Since the board is cold, the rapid heating of this trace causes it to freeze. But once its heated to a certain temperature and expands, it can allow more or possibly the proper voltage to go through and since there is no spike in voltage it doesn't cause a freeze. Just an idea that ran through my head.

Man I'm really itching to get RAID configured through the Sil SATA controller. Even though it 1.5GB/s. It'll be a million times better than this ATA/IDE drive.
I'll run HDtach on it, just to see how really slow it is.


----------



## Blitz6804

Nah man, I tried to buy the board off of him, but he sold me the Abit AT8-32x instead. He just could not let his prize go.

Regards the fan, go to the PC Health Status. Under SmartFan I/O (or whatever it is called) and set all values to 25Âº C. This will prevent your fans from throttling. It is not just your board; my DFI LP DK 790FX-M2RS would do the same thing if throttling were turned on:
Fans come full tilt at boot
When the PC POSTs, all fans throttle as the temperature is not high enough for them to stay on
Most of the fans shut off due to lack of voltage while throttled
As things heat up, all the fans kick on at once
PC restarts
POST without throttling this time as all sensors are over 25Âº C now
To those of you planning to go Deneb in your future: Make sure your heatsink is up to the task. At idle, I am about 25-28Âº C (depending on CnQ status) on the cores at idle in an 18 Â± 0.3Âº C ambient. According to Everest, my BIOS, and many others, my CPU spreader is at ambient. Ergo, my cooler cannot get an idled processor any colder. At load, the cores are in the mid-50s under S&M. You can see my SI-128 (non-SE) was not designed with quad cores in mind.

Anyone have any experience with the Noctua NH-C12P? Now that I have "normal" RAM, I should have no problems fitting that cooler on my board. (My old RAM permitted me to have only my SI-128 or similar due to the vertical clearance required.) If not, could you recommend me a "better" heatsink? I have two requirements: (1) Must be bolt-down / bolt-through; spring clips need not apply, (2) Must have airflow perpendicular to the board surface; that is, similar to a stock cooler or my present SI-128, not a tower cooler.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Not quite because Windows wont necessarily lock up right away.

Here is exactly down to the T what I noticed. First startup after the computer has been sitting powered down for a while. Push start button all fans spin. As the board goes through its POST and some other self check screen, Fan 2 stops spinning. Only reason I noticed this was because I have my top exhaust fan plug in to this. So I have a clear view of it. .
Anyway, it goes through the self checks then boots in to Windows. Once in Windows the fan starts back up. Windows freezes randomly, it could be during the initial boot up session or 5+ minutes later. 
Then when I shut it down and reboot Fan 2 spins all the way through POST and the other self check screen and in to Windows. And the computer doesn't freeze at all after that. I've literally had it on for _days_ and it won't freeze again.

Here's a hypothesis I have: When fan 2 stops spinning it's creating a resistance on the board somewhere, creating heat on a particular trace. Since the board is cold, the rapid heating of this trace causes it to freeze. But once its heated to a certain temperature and expands, it can allow more or possibly the proper voltage to go through and since there is no spike in voltage it doesn't cause a freeze. Just an idea that ran through my head.

Man I'm really itching to get RAID configured through the Sil SATA controller. Even though it 1.5GB/s. It'll be a million times better than this ATA/IDE drive. 
I'll run HDtach on it, just to see how really slow it is.


You could just use a fan controller for all your chassis fans. This will eliminate some of the stress on the mobo and Possibly make your system more stable come time for overclocking. Another thing I was thinking as soon as I read about your problem is this. Try a diff fan and see if the same problems exists. It's possible the fan is either 1 drawing to many amps from the circuit on the fan port of the mobo, 2 the fan is getting old or defecting in one way or another and once it gets warm you don't get the problem of resistance from the cold fan or 3 both 1 & 2 are working against you at the same time...

Good Luck,

N2G


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Nah man, I tried to buy the board off of him, but he sold me the Abit AT8-32x instead. He just could not let his prize go.


Actually, you're telling an incomplete story here.

If I'm not mistaken, I kept warning you at the time that the CFX3200 was one melodrama-inducing frustration after another. I didn't want to sell you the board partly because it's not the work of a moment to sort out all its inherent issues (I'm only talking about my board specifically; I don't mean to slag the entire species that is CFX3200). BlackOmega's issues with a similar board only lend credence to my warnings, though, don't they?

At the time, I don't think you had as much patience and gumption for testing (as it transpired, my patience and desire to test were exhausted by this motherboard) to sort out the issues as you have now. In a way, my CFX3200 is wasting away at present, doing nothing but sit in its case, waiting for me to flip the switch and start working on it again. Such is the drain this little adventure has cost me.

However, I think that going the "classical route" in running this motherboard (i.e., running a RAID array off of the Silicon Image controller) should go some way towards buying some stability at any clock speed.

It's a quirky board, for sure. It's impossible to say now whether or not you would have had the patience to keep on working on it to sort the problems out.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Here's a hypothesis I have: When fan 2 stops spinning it's creating a resistance on the board somewhere, creating heat on a particular trace. Since the board is cold, the rapid heating of this trace causes it to freeze. But once its heated to a certain temperature and expands, it can allow more or possibly the proper voltage to go through and since there is no spike in voltage it doesn't cause a freeze. Just an idea that ran through my head.

BlackOmega, I'd go with N2Gaming's suggestion and try a fan controller and/or a different fan. Your above theory sounds like interesting but I can't imagine that being the culprit. On my SLI-DR, the exhaust fan would do the same thing. It would never spin up at POST until I got into the operating system. I had my chipset set to kick the fans on at 45C.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Anyone have any experience with the Noctua NH-C12P? Now that I have "normal" RAM, I should have no problems fitting that cooler on my board. (My old RAM permitted me to have only my SI-128 or similar due to the vertical clearance required.) If not, could you recommend me a "better" heatsink? I have two requirements: (1) Must be bolt-down / bolt-through; spring clips need not apply, (2) Must have airflow perpendicular to the board surface; that is, similar to a stock cooler or my present SI-128, not a tower cooler.

Blitz, here are a couple of reviews on the Noctua NH-C12P that may help:

http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coo...a-nh-c12p.html
http://www.frostytech.com/articlevie...articleID=2280
http://www.bjorn3d.com/read.php?cID=1285

First review follows a Intel Quad core. Unfortunately none of these cover a Phenom 920/940. Mid 50's in S&M isn't all that bad though. Are you sure your case isn't lacking in airflow? Understand also that your rig will never see that type of stress that S&M, Orthos/Prime, OCCT produce. Games like SC4 and Civilization 4 are pretty stressful on a processor but I doubt it's anywhere close to S&M. If I remember correctly, Team Fortress 2 utilized my video card more than my processor. Even at that, video card utilization was below 20% according to Everest's OSD Panel.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

My cooler is ducted directly to the outside of the case. As I said, under idle, my CPU's IHS reads ambient. I suppose the two fixes for this would be (1) a higher CFM / pressure fan, which really is not an option given I really do not want to hear it, or (2) larger surface area. I recall with the BT guide the idea of sticking RAM sinks onto the heat pipes, anyone know if it helps? The SI-128SE is fortunate enough to have soldered pipes by default, mine might be soldered, might be adhesived; I do not know. The SI-128SE also has perforated fins, thereby increasing turbidity and cooling power; maybe I should try modding the SI-128 to have similar holes? Think it is worth it? I would really rather just replace it with something beefier.

EDIT: I just started reading the reviews. Granted, it is a dual-core, but this looks promising:

















(Both images from Bjorn3d.com)

With both the SI-128 and the Noctua NH-C12P equipped with a Noctua NF-P12, the Noctua NH-C12P wins by 2Âº C. With the Noctua equipped with an NF-P12, the temperature is 2Âº C higher than equipped with an S-Flex SSF21F, which is what I am packing. Tangentially speaking, you would expect a cumulative 3-4Âº C drop. Granted, the TDP is 105 W to my 125 W, you should still expect a comparable scale.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Blitz, if you were to keep the SI-128, your only viable option is to install a more effective fan (i.e., more powerful and louder). You could perhaps use a manual fan controller (rheobus) to dial up the fan RPMs as needed, so that you don't subject yourself to a constant auditory barrage from the fans. (This is what I do at home.)

Ever since making the decision to invest in water cooling equipment, I've not bothered to buy and test air cooling solutions anymore (I have a surplus of these parts anyway at the moment). Therefore I don't have any definitive recommendations for perpendicular-blowing HSFs. In my opinion, though, most of the favored CPU heatsinks these days are "tower style;" the manufacturers have marketed themselves into producing only tower heatsinks and seem to have eschewed refinements to the "perpendicular-blowing" design (which I personally favor strongly).


----------



## Blitz6804

And I favor as well for similar reasons.

I had at one point used a more powerful fan and used one of my case's preinstalled rheostats. (There are two installed on the case door.) However, I did not like to have to fiddle with knobs before I try gaming. Granted, I likely could use the integrated fan speed control in the BIOS (as we have discussed) but for problems like BlackOmega is having and I described in depth, I am skeptical if I wish to go that route. This is why I opted to go with the highest CFM I could find for a sound I could tolerate.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


My cooler is ducted directly to the outside of the case. As I said, under idle, my CPU's IHS reads ambient.


Blitz, there should be some airflow in your case that is hitting the cooler. This should be coming from the front intake fans (if installed). What full load temperatures are you looking for?

Good luck


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


This is why I opted to go with the highest CFM I could find for a sound I could tolerate.


Blitz, quietness and overclocking do not go well together especially with a quad core processor. You may have to make some sacrifices. At the time I was running my Opty 170, I threw on a Delta fan and eventually got use to the 80db









Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


And I favor as well for similar reasons.

I had at one point used a more powerful fan and used one of my case's preinstalled rheostats. (There are two installed on the case door.) However, I did not like to have to fiddle with knobs before I try gaming. Granted, I likely could use the integrated fan speed control in the BIOS (as we have discussed) but for problems like BlackOmega is having and I described in depth, I am skeptical if I wish to go that route. This is why I opted to go with the highest CFM I could find for a sound I could tolerate.


In other words, you're LAZY.









Be mindful as well that the SI-128 (and probably the SI-128SE as well) were not really designed to take the thermal dissipation of something hotter than a typical, even overclocked, dual-core processor.

The more cores you have, the hotter things will be.


----------



## Blitz6804

My goal would be sub-50Âº C stock. Even if it holds a steady 49Âº C that would be good enough. IIRC, my last test before I started overclocking was 52Âº C in S&M FPU, so I only need to shave off 2-3Âº C. The front fan has a deminimis impact on cooling the CPU as near as I can tell. The bottom front fan (80mm) is instrumental in cooling the hard drives. The top front fan (120mm) does not seem to have enough RPM to really do much since I changed the way the side fans operated. I am almost tempted to remove the Kama Bay Cooler and go back to having a solid front. (One again permitting me to run my computer with the door shut.) For experimentation's sake, I have shut the door, and will see what happens with temperatures.


----------



## Krusher33

thInk3r, you da man! (Helped oc a sempron from 2.0 to 2.95, not bad for a first time for me)

Started a thread on a Socket 939 motherboard, but didn't want to "waste space" on this ever so popular thread. The motherboard doesn't seem worthy for this thread... IMO.
Is this socket 939 overclockable?

So if you guys can help me out, it'd be sweet.
Thanks for the understanding!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Krusher33, I have replied to your thread.


----------



## Blitz6804

Thlnk3r / Joe:

Idle w/ CnQ = 16Âº C CPU, 24Âº C cores
Idle w/o CnQ = 19Âº C CPU, 27Âº C cores
Load = 44Âº C CPU, 51Âº C cores

Door open or closed makes no difference; I think that is reason enough to remove the Kama bay fan and save some noise level. (PC is quieter with door shut.)

Something that concerns me though: what temperature is the CPU actually running at? You will notice that with CnQ on, the CPU is idling at a sub-ambient temperature. I know it is only running 800 MHz @ 0.976 V, but how could it possibly be sub ambient? Is it possible that the CPU sensor is bad and the core sensor is what is important? There is a consistent 8Âº C delta between the core and the CPU at all times.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Blitz, it is IMPOSSIBLE to run at sub-ambient temperatures when on air cooling.

(Which means either the software reading it is not doing its job properly, or the thermal sensor is borked.)


----------



## Blitz6804

Believe me, I know... I used to be able to recite the laws of thermodynamics if prodded from a deep sleep.

The question is: is the temperature off and I should use a curve in the BIOS, or is it not a big deal and I should just ignore the CPU temperature focusing only on the cores.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Given your ambient temperatures (you stated 18 degs C earlier, yes?), I would say none of your readings are reliable. I cannot say that the BIOS reading would be any more reliable, either, since it is ostensibly reading from the same sensors as the in-OS software is.

My simple solution (which you probably would not accept) is to completely ignore the software and just be sensitive to the system's behavior. It will throttle itself if it gets too hot and will prevent causing permanent damage. Either that, or get an independent and accurately-calibrated thermal meter (IR gun or something similar, or a third-party thermal probe -- mounting this would be problematic, of course) and use that to keep an eye on temperatures.


----------



## Blitz6804

Broken link?

Joe: Probably would not accept that no. It seems like I cannot get a thermometer that likes me lately. For the record, I am now running without a front fan and the door shut. My temperatures are the same as they were with the fan, proving its services were no longer required. (When I had 90s on the side, it helped yes. Since the 120s, it has not.) It is interesting to note that my GPU and HDD temps are the same as well.


----------



## simfreak47

I think my mobo is dying.

Symptom: New PSU, doesn't always power rig up (the post code LED's are dim, and flash (not supposed to happen), and my Green neon light flashes too. Gotta play with the PSU to get it to fire up. (flip the switch off, and switch it back on really quick)

Old 250 watt fired her right up, no problems. Pulled my graphics card, it fired right up.

Put my PSU, CPU, and Graphics card in another machine, and it fired right up too. Either my mobo is taking a crap, or the power supply isn't strong enough (80+ certified FTL???)

Any suggestions? I already am sending my PSU back for a refund, and buying a cheap one, since they always work for me.


----------



## Blitz6804

Hm... 400 W should be more than enough for the CPU, memory, and graphics card. On the other hand, there might be something about that PSU that the DFI just does not like. DFI motherboards are VERY picky about their power supplies.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *simfreak47* 
I think my mobo is dying.

Symptom: New PSU, doesn't always power rig up (the post code LED's are dim, and flash (not supposed to happen), and my Green neon light flashes too. Gotta play with the PSU to get it to fire up. (flip the switch off, and switch it back on really quick)

Old 250 watt fired her right up, no problems. Pulled my graphics card, it fired right up.

Put my PSU, CPU, and Graphics card in another machine, and it fired right up too. Either my mobo is taking a crap, or the power supply isn't strong enough (80+ certified FTL???)

Any suggestions? I already am sending my PSU back for a refund, and buying a cheap one, since they always work for me.

Simfreak47, the Corsair 400CX is an excellent product. Please try and not go cheap when it comes to power supplies. I believe the 400CX is built by Seasonic. First time I received my SLI-DR, my Seasonic S12-500W wouldn't work at all with my DFI board. As Blitz mentioned above, some of the DFI boards can be very picky when it comes to power supplies. My only solution was to purchase a new power supply. I picked up a Corsair 550VX (channel well technology). Solid unit I must say









Here is a site that covers quite a few power supplies. The reviews are very informative: http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php...at&recatnum=13

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

It's entirely possible that simfreak's PSU may be defective out of the box. Per the symptoms he described, I think it may be a defective unit.

Good luck.


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Hm... 400 W should be more than enough for the CPU, memory, and graphics card. On the other hand, there might be something about that PSU that the DFI just does not like. DFI motherboards are VERY picky about their power supplies.

So it might not like a single 12v rail with 30 amps? That might be the case.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Simfreak47, the Corsair 400CX is an excellent product. Please try and not go cheap when it comes to power supplies. I believe the 400CX is built by Seasonic. First time I received my SLI-DR, my Seasonic S12-500W wouldn't work at all with my DFI board. As Blitz mentioned above, some of the DFI boards can be very picky when it comes to power supplies. My only solution was to purchase a new power supply. I picked up a Corsair 550VX (channel well technology). Solid unit I must say









Here is a site that covers quite a few power supplies. The reviews are very informative: http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php...at&recatnum=13

Good luck

Now that I think about it, the PSU and motherboard just don't get along. Too bad I already got a RMA # issued.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
It's entirely possible that simfreak's PSU may be defective out of the box. Per the symptoms he described, I think it may be a defective unit.

Good luck.









This is a replacement unit, is there a chance I could get 2 bad PSU's in a row??









My friend got this PSU, and I was wondering if it would be recommended for me? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817339025

Thanks for all of your input, I uberly appreciate it!


----------



## thlnk3r

Joe, good point. Simfreak had mentioned he tried the PSU in another machine and it worked fine







. Then again that doesn't mean the PSU faulty.

Simfreak47, if you haven't already shipped it back for a RMA try and check the rails with a multimeter to see if they are within specification. Here is the guide that I typically like to follow: http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/guide...ing-guide.html.

If you don't have a multimeter then don't sweat it. Better safe then sorry for an RMA.

Good luck


----------



## nategr8ns

sounds kind of like my current power problem

When I turn off the computer, only the bottom LED (near the debug lights) remains on, but when I flip the PSU switch from off to on, the RAM power light comes on also.
It still won't turn on until I power-cycle the PSU.


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Joe, good point. Simfreak had mentioned he tried the PSU in another machine and it worked fine







. Then again that doesn't mean the PSU faulty.

Simfreak47, if you haven't already shipped it back for a RMA try and check the rails with a multimeter to see if they are within specification. Here is the guide that I typically like to follow: http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/guide...ing-guide.html.

If you don't have a multimeter then don't sweat it. Better safe then sorry for an RMA.

Good luck


I don't have a MM, but I'm considering one!


----------



## nategr8ns

I use a $10-15 radioshack brand one.
As far as I can tell it works great







.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *simfreak47*


I don't have a MM, but I'm considering one!


http://www.kiesub.com/prostores/servlet/Detail?no=877

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


I use a $10-15 radioshack brand one.
As far as I can tell it works great







.


----------



## Blitz6804

For those who remember me complaining about my hard drive, I think I may have fixed the problem. The PC seems much faster now.

1) Ran McAfee; came up clean
2) Rebooted to safe mode
3) Ran SpyBot S&D, nothing significant found
4) Ran CCleaner, about 1 GB of temporary files removed
5) Ran CCleaner's "Wipe Free Space" (took 3 hours!)
6) Ran Auslogic's Disk Defrag, found 716 fragments of 186k files
7) Ran Auslogic's Disk Defrag, found 7 fragments of 186k files
8) Ran Auslogic's Disk Defrag, found 1 fragment of 186k files
9) Rebooted to normal mode
10) Enjoy a working PC again.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


For those who remember me complaining about my hard drive, I think I may have fixed the problem. The PC seems much faster now.

1) Ran McAfee; came up clean
2) Rebooted to safe mode
3) Ran SpyBot S&D, nothing significant found
4) Ran CCleaner, about 1 GB of temporary files removed
5) Ran CCleaner's "Wipe Free Space" (took 3 hours!)
6) Ran Auslogic's Disk Defrag, found 716 fragments of 186k files
7) Ran Auslogic's Disk Defrag, found 7 fragments of 186k files
8) Ran Auslogic's Disk Defrag, found 1 fragment of 186k files
9) Rebooted to normal mode
10) Enjoy a working PC again.


----------



## Blitz6804

As soon as my laptop is done folding this unit (FAHMon thinks sometime late tomorrow) I will repeat the procedure there. It has been INCREDIBLY slow lately. Like, slower than a Merom usually is. Granted, I have to admit, it is cool to be SMP folding while taking notes in class... if you can get by the fact the sucker runs at least 75Âº C while doing so.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I have to admit, it is cool to be SMP folding while taking notes in class


----------



## nategr8ns

blitz, you don't leave FAHmon running, do you? This slows down all folding processes horribly.


----------



## Blitz6804

Nope; pop it open, check ETA, close again.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


sounds kind of like my current power problem

When I turn off the computer, only the bottom LED (near the debug lights) remains on, but when I flip the PSU switch from off to on, the RAM power light comes on also.
It still won't turn on until I power-cycle the PSU.


Nate I belive the orange/yellow led near the ram slots is only souppose to be on when you have power to them. i.e. when your system is on or you put it to sleep w/power to the ram to retain the information stored on the ram for a quick wake up and ready state. Try to put it to sleep and see if the orange/yellow led stays on. I bet you money it does...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


http://www.kiesub.com/prostores/servlet/Detail?no=877











Very good find. Very cheap and yet effective.









Some one give this man some Rep+


----------



## Blitz6804

N2Gaming: Different generation, but I can confirm this is what my DFI does. The Standby light is on if there is power to the board, the RAM light is on only if the system is powered up. However, unlike Nate, I do not need to unplug/plug the PSU to make it boot again.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Very cheap and yet effective.









Some one give this man some Rep+


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


N2Gaming: Different generation, but I can confirm this is what my DFI does. The Standby light is on if there is power to the board, the RAM light is on only if the system is powered up. However, unlike Nate, I do not need to unplug/plug the PSU to make it boot again.


So your mobo ram led stays lit when you put it to sleep as it should.

Note the diff between sleep and hibernate.

Sleep is when your ram is powered to retain date.

Hibernate the data on the ram is stored on the hdd and the ram is not supplied w/power and the led would then turn off as if you turned the computer off.


----------



## Blitz6804

Uhm... dude... I know, you do not have to tell me the difference between hibernate and sleep. (The latter of which I never use; the former of which my laptop is constantly using.)


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Uhm... dude... I know, you do not have to tell me the difference between hibernate and sleep. (The latter of which I never use; the former of which my laptop is constantly using.)

Uhm OK Dude... There are other users here that may benefit from the information.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Uhm OK Dude... There are other users here that may benefit from the information.


----------



## pez

I think anyone here running at least 2.5ghz on a x2 should take advantage of the FC2 deal. It's such an amazing looking game. So much eye candy. Oh yeah....it has rpg elements....that's what everyone's been crying about...so forewarning







. I'm curious to see game performances on a x2 at 3ghz vs my kuma at 3ghz.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

*S939 Club Members* who are also *dedicated OCN Folders*, lend me your ears, please.

Please PM me regarding a *OCN S939 Folders Only* message I need to share with you.

Thank you.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Nah man, I tried to buy the board off of him, but he sold me the Abit AT8-32x instead. He just could not let his prize go.

Regards the fan, go to the PC Health Status. Under SmartFan I/O (or whatever it is called) and set all values to 25Âº C. This will prevent your fans from throttling. It is not just your board; my DFI LP DK 790FX-M2RS would do the same thing if throttling were turned on:
Fans come full tilt at boot
When the PC POSTs, all fans throttle as the temperature is not high enough for them to stay on
Most of the fans shut off due to lack of voltage while throttled
As things heat up, all the fans kick on at once
PC restarts
POST without throttling this time as all sensors are over 25Âº C now


 Well Blitz, I went in to the BIOS and changed the setting per your advice, just to rule one more thing out. Guess what, no change. Fan 2 still comes to a complete stop upon initial boot. Onc windows starts loading Fan2 comes on. Once in the desktop all the drivers load (which takes a while with this ATA/IDE drive :swearing







. Then usually within 5 minutes the rig locks up. But as of late it seems to lock up within a minute. 
Then when I shut it down and reboot, fan 2 stays on the whole time. I'm starting to wonder if this is a VR issue


----------



## Blitz6804

It has been said, but have you tried unplugging Fan2 from the header to see if the freeze still happens? You might be mistaking coincidence with causality.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


It has been said, but have you tried unplugging Fan2 from the header to see if the freeze still happens? You might be mistaking coincidence with causality.


 Not yet, but I'll be sure to pull the plug tonight so I can see if it has any affect. At this point I'm kind of doubting that it will lock up regardless if the fan is plugged in or not. As Im thinking it has more to do with the actual circuit rather than if a device is plugged in to it or not.

Another thing, I downloaded HDtach and tried running it on my ATA/IDE drive. But it keeps crashing when attempting to run the last test. Any ideas?


----------



## Blitz6804

HDTach has never done that to me; I will need to defer to the program's advocate, thln3r.

Question: Does anyone else here run an X-Fi equipped with the Daniel K drivers? If so, do you experience a periodic screech (as if it is unlimited feedback) if you get sound after a prolonged period of silence? If you did, but no longer do, how did you fix?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
HDTach has never done that to me; I will need to defer to the program's advocate, thln3r.

Question: Does anyone else here run an X-Fi equipped with the Daniel K drivers? If so, do you experience a periodic screech (as if it is unlimited feedback) if you get sound after a prolonged period of silence? If you did, but no longer do, how did you fix?

No but I did get the screech with mine. It also caused certain games to hang (BF2142) or get caught in an endless sound loop once back at the desktop. Turned out to be a bad driver. Got the updated version and it took care of the screech and the hang.


----------



## Blitz6804

I would use official drivers, but the Vista drivers I tried were a far cry from the XP drivers. This is why I had to go Daniel K.

On another issue: I again ask if anyone would be interested in helping me with the roster revisions. Mostly in the field of data collection.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I would use official drivers, but the Vista drivers I tried were a far cry from the XP drivers. This is why I had to go Daniel K.

On another issue: I again ask if anyone would be interested in helping me with the roster revisions. Mostly in the field of data collection.

Thats unfortunate about the drivers. After a couple of revisions for XP they finally got it right. The XFi works flawlessly.

As for helping with the roster, I would but I've got another munchkin coming in less than a month so I don't know if I would be any help. Not to mention I'm a full time student now too. All that comes to mind today is PV=nRT


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I'm starting to wonder if this is a VR issue










that is very possible, hook it up to the case fan spot and see if it does the same thing.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Not to mention I'm a full time student now too. All that comes to mind today is PV=nRT










In the words of my professor: "Eef I come to your house and shake you from sleep, and ask you, 'Pee vee equals,' you should e-meediately shout out 'nRT!'" </UKRAINIAN>

I have not taken a chemistry course now in some three years. I guarantee you twenty years from now, if you ask me "PV=..." you will still get the same answer. Run away from Chemistry now. Seriously. It will never leave you. (I warned you...)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Another thing, I downloaded HDtach and tried running it on my ATA/IDE drive. But it keeps crashing when attempting to run the last test. Any ideas?


BlackOmega, just to clarify...HDTach is freezing at the "Sequential Read" test? Two things that come to my mind, a failing drive or Windows conflict/driver related issues. To rule out a drive failure in terms of "bad sector(s)" download the Western Digital diagnostic tool and burn it to a CD. Run the "extended test". If you ran this test already a month ago or two months ago then do it again. If this problem is all of sudden apparent then perhaps that is a sign.

Does the CFX3200 require a nForce IDE driver? Is this still a single drive configuration and not RAID?

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Does the CFX3200 require a nForce IDE driver? Is this still a single drive configuration and not RAID?

Good luck


It shouldn't, as it's an ATi chipset. If I'm not mistaken, the RD580 uses Windows' native drivers.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


It shouldn't, as it's an ATi chipset. If I'm not mistaken, the RD580 uses Windows' native drivers.


You know what ???

COD4 sucks when nobody uses a microphone!!!


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Nate I belive the orange/yellow led near the ram slots is only souppose to be on when you have power to them. i.e. when your system is on or you put it to sleep w/power to the ram to retain the information stored on the ram for a quick wake up and ready state. Try to put it to sleep and see if the orange/yellow led stays on. I bet you money it does...

I have to figure out how to put it to sleep...
But I don't understand why it only powers on when the RAM light is on, and why the RAM light turns on while the computer is off.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


No but I did get the screech with mine. It also caused certain games to hang (BF2142) or get caught in an endless sound loop once back at the desktop. Turned out to be a bad driver. Got the updated version and it took care of the screech and the hang.


From my experience, hangs have always been related to bad gfx drivers in most of the situations I've seen. Even if the sound loops.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


You know what ???

COD4 sucks when nobody uses a microphone!!!










Actually, in most games, (CSS, CoD4) I prefer that people don't use their mic because 8 out of 10 servers have people that spam the mics or aren't talking about anything of use.


----------



## Blitz6804

Thlnk3r/Joe: I do not recall needing a driver for IDE, SATA, XP, or Vista with the Crossfire Xpress 3200 chipset.

N2Gaming: I prefer using XFire to chat; having to push a button to talk to people and having it come out my primary speakers when they talk to me is not exactly conducive to gameplay. When I use XFire, people talk to me with my little bluetooth headset. When people talk to me through the game, it will come out of the 7.1 surround sound.

nategr8ns: The light bulb next to the RAM slots indicate that there is power being delivered to them. You would not want power going to RAM while the computer is off right?


----------



## thlnk3r

Team, in regards to the "LED" discussion on the DFI nForce 4 boards...I had a look on my SLI-DR board and I do remember something. When the power cable is connected and the PSU is toggled to the "ON" position both the _DRAM Power LED_ and the _Standby Power LED_ light up. Both are always on even when the computer is off. They only disappear when the board has no more power (ie. power cable disconnected and/or the toggle switch on the PSU is on the "OFF" position which I'm sure we all know is 0).

Just thought I'd share that.

Good luck


----------



## Hueristic

I believe I posted link to cheap, Less than $10 shipped, pci diagnostic boards awhile back.

I really think you DFI guys should look into those.


----------



## Blitz6804

Thanks thlnk3r. As I said, my board is of a different generation, so I was not sure about the RAM LED. (My shuts off with the PC.) Does it make a difference if you are in S1 or S3 power state?

Hueristic: Remember a time when I had a board with an LCD diagnostic board built in; I did not find it much more helpful than beep codes.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
nategr8ns: The light bulb next to the RAM slots indicate that there is power being delivered to them. You would not want power going to RAM while the computer is off right?

What I meant was that it doesn't make sense that the computer is only booting when that light is on.


----------



## Blitz6804

It actually makes perfect sense; a computer would not operate without RAM. However, I would expect it to boot, but not POST. Or, chuck a no memory error. Have you had a chance to try another power supply yet?


----------



## nategr8ns

I have not tried another power supply yet.
I took a short vid with my cell phone. I'll upload it to youtube now.
edit: bitpim can't find my phone, I uninstalled drivers when I swapped mobos.
I'm going to need to find the driver disk.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
I believe I posted link to cheap, Less than $10 shipped, pci diagnostic boards awhile back.

I really think you DFI guys should look into those.









Hueristic, from my own experiences the cheap ones aren't always in-depth. The diagnostic capabilities are just to low. Ultra-X has some of the carries some diagnostic cards that are excellent but can be expensive. I personally use their diagnostic software, "QuickTech Pro". I highly recommend it.

Good luck


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
edit: bitpim can't find my phone, I uninstalled drivers when I swapped mobos.
I'm going to need to find the driver disk.

Nate, let me know what kind of phone you have and I'll try and help you out. I just set up my Samsung Sway with QPST on my machine. I enjoy making ringtones









Good luck


----------



## nategr8ns

I have an LG the V. The sync cable drivers are nowhere on the net, but I do have a disk with them.
I'm fine, I'm just too lazy to find the drivers. It's a friday!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


I have an LG the V. The sync cable drivers are nowhere on the net, but I do have a disk with them.
I'm fine, I'm just too lazy to find the drivers. It's a friday!


Nate, are you referring to the LG env or env 2?

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


that is very possible, hook it up to the case fan spot and see if it does the same thing.


 Well thats actually what was hooked up to it. So I just completely disconnected it. So far, so good. I've fired her up and it hasn't locked up yet. So far its been about ~15min.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


In the words of my professor: "Eef I come to your house and shake you from sleep, and ask you, 'Pee vee equals,' you should e-meediately shout out 'nRT!'" </UKRAINIAN>

I have not taken a chemistry course now in some three years. I guarantee you twenty years from now, if you ask me "PV=..." you will still get the same answer. Run away from Chemistry now. Seriously. It will never leave you. (I warned you...)


 I haven't taken any chem since HS, so Im basically relearning everything from square one. Kind of funny the semester is almost over and I haven't even opened the book once. And I'm averaging a B+ so far. 
And I don't mind chem. Although some of the concepts are hard to wrap your mind around. Though the concepts are easier to grasp than BIO. Which half of the time I hear something along the lines of "they dont really know how it works" :swearing:. WTH kind of explanation is that?







Not knowing how something works is not how I like to look at things. I _need_ to know. And I won't stop until I find out.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, just to clarify...HDTach is freezing at the "Sequential Read" test? Two things that come to my mind, a failing drive or Windows conflict/driver related issues. To rule out a drive failure in terms of "bad sector(s)" download the Western Digital diagnostic tool and burn it to a CD. Run the "extended test". If you ran this test already a month ago or two months ago then do it again. If this problem is all of sudden apparent then perhaps that is a sign.

Does the CFX3200 require a nForce IDE driver? Is this still a single drive configuration and not RAID?

Good luck


 Yeah it fails the sequential read test. Well technically it starts but doesn't really do anything. It get 0 bars in the progress bar.

As for the WD utility, will it work with any drive or just WD drives? This IDE drive happens to be a Maxtor Dell OEM. If that makes any difference.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


From my experience, hangs have always been related to bad gfx drivers in most of the situations I've seen. Even if the sound loops.


 This one happened to be specific to the XFI. There was always something that was in the task manager that wasn't supposed to be running, it was along the lines of ~e000006. And I would always have to manually end task it. Then the loop would stop. When I used onboard audio this didnt happen so I deduced that it had to be from the sound card. 
Just to be sure I reinstalled the driver for it and I noticed the same bit of code in one of the progress screens. So that just reinforced the fact that it was a XFi issue. I let Creative know about it, and they had an updated driver out shortly there after. Once I updated to the new driver no more hang/sound loop.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Actually, in most games, (CSS, CoD4) I prefer that people don't use their mic because 8 out of 10 servers have people that spam the mics or aren't talking about anything of use.


 I like to use my mic. Half the time I talk about BS and the other half I call out positions or things that actually pertain to the game. It's kind of funny actually when I start using my mic, it seems more and more people start using theirs. Only thing I hate is the Noobs that cant figure out how to let go of the push to talk button.







:swearing:

Thanks for all the help guys


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Yeah it fails the sequential read test. Well technically it starts but doesn't really do anything. It get 0 bars in the progress bar.

As for the WD utility, will it work with any drive or just WD drives? This IDE drive happens to be a Maxtor Dell OEM. If that makes any difference.


BlackOmega, sorry about that. I was going off the drive in your signature. If it's a Maxtor hard drive then try downloading the Seagate Seatools: http://www.seagate.com/www/en-us/sup...loads/seatools.

Make sure to run the full test.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Hi guys. I accidentally unsubscribed so this is my re sub post...









EDIT: Thank you thinker. I did not know that.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, instead of posting you can also click on "Thread Tools" and then click "Subscribe to this thread"









Good luck


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*









Hi guys. I accidentally unsubscribed so this is my re sub post...










N2Gaming, instead of posting you can also click on "Thread Tools" and then click "Subscribe to this thread"









Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, sorry about that. I was going off the drive in your signature. If it's a Maxtor hard drive then try downloading the Seagate Seatools: http://www.seagate.com/www/en-us/sup...loads/seatools.

Make sure to run the full test.

Good luck

Thanks th|nk3r







. I'll run it and see what comes up.
Sorry about the confusion. I am planning to run the RE16's in RAID 0 hopefully by tonight so I can get my WD SE16 in my NF4 rig and get it folding again. Now I just need a chipset fan so I can put both cards on it.







2x FTW???

This maxtor drive was just a temp drive to circumvent the ULi SATA issues this board has.

Update on the CFX3200 DR. So far with fan2 unplugged the board has not locked up. Its been almost 2 hours and everything appears to be OK. Not even an inkling of instability or odd behaviors. Other than my chipset running 4*C hotter.
So this is leading me to conclude that Fan2 and the ULi chipset must be on the same circuit.

New hypothesis, when there is a fan plugged in to the Fan 2 port it must be "stealing" the power and causing a lack of stability in the ULi chipset which in turn is causing the lock ups. Or its creating a lot of resistance somewhere, possibly in the VR, and causing it to malfunction due to the excess heat created by the ohms. Just for kicks and giggles when I set the board up for RAID, I'll run it through the ULi chipset and see what happens.









Once again thanks th|nk3r.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Hueristic, from my own experiences the cheap ones aren't always in-depth.

Very true but they do have all the post codes displayed in a digital format and a book to look them up in which can resolve many issues immediately.

The higher end cards that do diagnostics are of course the cats meow but we can't all afford one when not in the business.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
So far with fan2 unplugged the board has not locked up. Its been almost 2 hours and everything appears to be OK. Not even an inkling of instability or odd behaviors. Other than my chipset running 4*C hotter.
So this is leading me to conclude that Fan2 and the ULi chipset must be on the same circuit.

New hypothesis, when there is a fan plugged in to the Fan 2 port it must be "stealing" the power and causing a lack of stability in the ULi chipset which in turn is causing the lock ups. Or its creating a lot of resistance somewhere, possibly in the VR, and causing it to malfunction due to the excess heat created by the ohms. Just for kicks and giggles when I set the board up for RAID, I'll run it through the ULi chipset and see what happens.









Once again thanks th|nk3r.









I like your thought process here B.O. I think you are onto something. If I had this board I would look up the chipset pinouts and monitor the voltage on the chip and see if it drops when the fan is drawing. Nice diagnosis hope you hit the nail! If it is indeed correct let us know so I can rep you for this insight.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Nate, are you referring to the LG env or env 2?

Good luck


Nope, the precursor to both, "the V" (VX9800)
review


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Nope, the precursor to both, "the V" (VX9800)
review


I much prefer my LG Rumor to the V/enV/enV2 
But those are still nice phones.


----------



## nategr8ns

well I got mine before it was "cool" because it wasn't cool







.
Still, it's like 2.5 years old now and working (although some of the outside keys need to be pressed a bit harder).


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


well I got mine before it was "cool" because it wasn't cool







.
Still, it's like 2.5 years old now and working (although some of the outside keys need to be pressed a bit harder).


Atleast your phone didn't have a bug that caused the screens ribbon cable to become de-attached and you to shat bricks.
That happened to me last week. 
I wanted a V, but I had to wait till sprint got the Rumor. 
I just want a simple phone with a full keyboard, and I have that now. 
So I'm happy.

And "enVious" of you. For being able to have the V for so long. The Rumor has only been out a little over a year now. And I've had it for that long.

I just don't need a Smart Phone's power, but I want the keyboard, besides. the Slim profile of the Rumor is really nice in my pocket.


----------



## nategr8ns

yeah I got the V because I didn't care about the size and because I knew the keyboard would come in handy.
It's also nice for music (I was able to unlock a hidden "mp3" player from the service menu so I can player higher quality songs versus the standard "wav" or "wma" player.


----------



## Tator Tot

Mine comes with a built in MP3 player. And has a good number of supported video codecs.

But I usually just load up a 2gb microSD with pictures.

I don't usually use it for songs as I have my Zune.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


I like your thought process here B.O. I think you are onto something. If I had this board I would look up the chipset pinouts and monitor the voltage on the chip and see if it drops when the fan is drawing. Nice diagnosis hope you hit the nail! If it is indeed correct let us know so I can rep you for this insight.



Thanks Hue







It's that same thought process that I used to teach myself how to fix cars. Now I'm a certified tech.









And here's yet another update to the CFX3200. It's 6.5 hours later and it _still_ hasn't locked up.







. So this is almost beyond a reasonable doubt (to me anyway) that FAN2 has something to do with the notorious lock up/freeze issue. 
As soon as my boy goes to bed I'll make all the necessary preparations to RAID the drives. And hopefully before the night is over I'll have a definitive answer to the much maligned ULi M1575 chipset of the CFX3200 DR RAID issue.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Thanks Hue







It's that same thought process that I used to teach myself how to fix cars. Now I'm a certified tech.









And here's yet another update to the CFX3200. It's 6.5 hours later and it _still_ hasn't locked up.







. So this is almost beyond a reasonable doubt (to me anyway) that FAN2 has something to do with the notorious lock up/freeze issue.
As soon as my boy goes to bed I'll make all the necessary preparations to RAID the drives. And hopefully before the night is over I'll have a definitive answer to the much maligned ULi M1575 chipset of the CFX3200 DR RAID issue.









Good work, BlackOmega!









I've got my popcorn ready for your RAID tests.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
You could just use a fan controller for all your chassis fans. This will eliminate some of the stress on the mobo and Possibly make your system more stable come time for overclocking. Another thing I was thinking as soon as I read about your problem is this. Try a diff fan and see if the same problems exists. It's possible the fan is either 1 drawing to many amps from the circuit on the fan port of the mobo, 2 the fan is getting old or defecting in one way or another and once it gets warm you don't get the problem of resistance from the cold fan or 3 both 1 & 2 are working against you at the same time...

Good Luck,

N2G


Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Thanks Hue







It's that same thought process that I used to teach myself how to fix cars. Now I'm a certified tech.









And here's yet another update to the CFX3200. It's 6.5 hours later and it _still_ hasn't locked up.







. So this is almost beyond a reasonable doubt (to me anyway) that FAN2 has something to do with the notorious lock up/freeze issue.
As soon as my boy goes to bed I'll make all the necessary preparations to RAID the drives. And hopefully before the night is over I'll have a definitive answer to the much maligned ULi M1575 chipset of the CFX3200 DR RAID issue.










I'm glad you finally unpluged the fan to test if it would fix the problem.

Have you looked into the user manual to see if the fan header #2 is for the power supply??? It may be a circuit deditcated to reading the spd of the power supply fan???

Good luck w/that...


----------



## thlnk3r

BlackOmega, that is good news for the CFX3200. I'd just like to add that _FAN 2_ on my SLI-DR is also thermally controller via BIOS but I did not experience the same issues as you did (well obviously not seeming we have different chipsets). Perhaps this has been mentioned already but have you tried a different fan?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Very true but they do have all the post codes displayed in a digital format and a book to look them up in which can resolve many issues immediately.

Hueristic, good point. I've also had the most expensive diagnostic cards not work at all. At that point it's time bust open the computer with a bat.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
Nope, the precursor to both, "the V" (VX9800)
review

Nate, try this old forum and see if the links listed in there help.

Good luck guys


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Good work, BlackOmega!









I've got my popcorn ready for your RAID tests.










 Thanks Joe.








Unfortunately I had to take my boy to the E.R. last night (double ear infection :swearing







so the RAID test is going to have to be postponed until tonight. (Got 3 maybe 4 cars to fix today







)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I'm glad you finally unplugged the fan to test if it would fix the problem.

Have you looked into the user manual to see if the fan header #2 is for the power supply??? It may be a circuit dedicated to reading the spd of the power supply fan???

Good luck w/that...










 Well, I took a gander at the manual to see if indeed it was just a sensor type socket for reading the PSU. Its not, fan headers 2-5 are there for additional fan.

Quote:



Connect the CPU fan's cable connector to the CPU fan connector
(J31) on the system board. Fan 2 (J32), Fan 3 (J30), Fan 4 (J6) and
Fan 5 (J9) are used to connect additional cooling fans. The cooling
fans will provide adequate airflow throughout the chassis to prevent
overheating the CPU and system board components.


EDIT: After looking at numbers associated with the fan numbers, I wonder if the CPU fan, fan2 and fan 3 are all on the same circuit. And when all 3 are hooked up it could possibly be overloading.










Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, that is good news for the CFX3200. I'd just like to add that _FAN 2_ on my SLI-DR is also thermally controller via BIOS but I did not experience the same issues as you did (well obviously not seeming we have different chipsets). Perhaps this has been mentioned already but have you tried a different fan?

Good luck guys










 I haven't tried any different size fans. All the fans tested were 120mm. But I did try 3 different ones. 1 Thermaltake (off of the BT), my Antec tricool and the one that was hooked up most recently is a CoolerMaster that came with my 590 case. All had the same result.

And here it is roughly 15 hours later, she is still up and running with no issues. 
Well, I probably better get my butt to bed so I'll be worth a damn tomorrow (later today







).

Thanks for all your help guys


----------



## Blitz6804

The way to test, move one of the plugs (fan 3 maybe?) to fan 2's header such that there are still only two fans. If it does not crash, then your hypothesis of overloading the circuit would be correct. If it still does, plug in only fan 2. If it still crashes, that header is just bad.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
I've also had the most expensive diagnostic cards not work at all. At that point it's time bust open the computer with a bat.


----------



## kitt3

To increase poll from 8ms delay to 1ms or 2ms

All i could find is this but when I click patch it says file usbport.sys is not found i dunno what else i can do..

Code:


Code:


http://forums.erodov.com/usb-poll-patch-winxp-sp3/5063.html


----------



## simfreak47

Guys, I'm going to take a break from computers for a while, I'm currently tied up with my guitar, and dirtbiking.

Good luck with the 939's!


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kitt3*


To increase poll from 8ms delay to 1ms or 2ms

All i could find is this but when I click patch it says file usbport.sys is not found i dunno what else i can do..

Code:


Code:


http://forums.erodov.com/usb-poll-patch-winxp-sp3/5063.html


It should be a reg key you can change google for the reg key.


----------



## kitt3

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
It should be a reg key you can change google for the reg key.

no i couldnt find anything


----------



## Blitz6804

Your signature does not specify, but do you have Service Pack 3 installed?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


The way to test, move one of the plugs (fan 3 maybe?) to fan 2's header such that there are still only two fans. If it does not crash, then your hypothesis of overloading the circuit would be correct. If it still does, plug in only fan 2. If it still crashes, that header is just bad.


 I'll give that a try. Ill have to use the CPU fan. Fan 3 is my NB cooler so it just wont reach the Fan 2 port. 
But here it is almost 24hours later and she still hasn't locked up.







And the NB fan temp is still ~43-44*C. The finish is pretty rough on the NB fan cooler. I wonder if lapping it would drop the temps any. At any rate I got sandpaper to smooth her out. We'll see what happens I suppose.

Thanx for the suggestion.









EDIT: Thinker I ran seatools long test on the drive last night and it also failed that. But other than considerably longer load times than a SATA drive there is no erratic behavior. But it doesn't seem to load any longer than the Ultra ATA drive that I have on my folks Dell. But that is a 423 pin P4 Willamette cpu. Its FSB is only 100MHz IIRC.
I wonder if having it mostly full has any affect on those test? Its a 40GB (38GB) HDD that is 81% full.


----------



## Blitz6804

I own a Willamette; the FSB is indeed 100 MHz quad-pumped.

As to capacity: at least 12% free should be fine.


----------



## kitt3

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Your signature does not specify, but do you have Service Pack 3 installed?

No i dont have sp3 installed. And I dont think i can install it but i would appreciate a link so i can download it and see how things work...


----------



## GuardianOdin

You might not want to mention that.

But installing SP3 to a cough "bad" copy of Windows might not be a wise choice.


----------



## kitt3

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
You might not want to mention that.

But installing SP3 to a cough "bad" copy of Windows might not be a wise choice.

so do i really need sp3 for increasing usbport poll rate?


----------



## Blitz6804

According to the link you posted, yes. At least, that is how I read it. On a legitimate and verified copy of Windows XP, Service Pack 3 should appear in your Microsoft Update. If it does not show up, there is some sort of conflict (hardware, software, et cetera) that prohibits you from getting XP SP3 at this time.


----------



## simfreak47

If you can't find download it, here is the link to install it manually.

http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/d...displaylang=en

even though it says the network installation, it works just fine for me.


----------



## kitt3

Quote:


Originally Posted by *simfreak47* 
If you can't find download it, here is the link to install it manually.

http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/d...displaylang=en

even though it says the network installation, it works just fine for me.

I almost forgot to ask is this for windows xp x64 ?


----------



## Blitz6804

According to Softpedia, there is no Service Pack 3 for Windows XP x64.


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kitt3*


I almost forgot to ask is this for windows xp x64 ?


No, I totaly overlooked that you have a XP x64 in your sig. Sorry.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


According to Softpedia, there is no Service Pack 3 for Windows XP x64.


Good find.


----------



## N2Gaming

kitt3, have you ever been able to use the usb ports at the speeds you are trying to achieve?

Do you know if you have good drivers for your mobo/chipset/usb root etc etc???

Good Luck,

N2G

On a side note... It's all bright and sunny here and I can't seem to get my 98 Must. GT 5spd started for the life of me. I checked the fule pressure and nothing but the fule reset switch is not poped up and the alarm's theft light goes out after a few seconds so it's not the key. I checked the 20 amp fuse under the hood and it's good. I'm wondering if it is a bad fuel pump and how to check if it is one way or the other...???


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


kitt3, have you ever been able to use the usb ports at the speeds you are trying to achieve?

Do you know if you have good drivers for your mobo/chipset/usb root etc etc???

Good Luck,

N2G

On a side note... It's all bright and sunny here and I can't seem to get my 98 Must. GT 5spd started for the life of me. I checked the fule pressure and nothing but the fule reset switch is not poped up and the alarm's theft light goes out after a few seconds so it's not the key. I checked the 20 amp fuse under the hood and it's good. I'm wondering if it is a bad fuel pump and how to check if it is one way or the other...???










 ITs the pump or the fuel pump relay which should be in the underhood fuse box. Its probably labeled power distribution box. In order to find out which relay it is you'll need a manual as most of them are multifunction. Or you can ask the guys over at Mustang Forums. Theyre usually pretty nice and for the most part very knowledgeable. I used to be a "regular" over there.







I'll see if I still have my 94-98 manual around here somewhere.

As for a way to check if its the pump, have someone turn the key to the on position (do not crank)while you've got your head down by the back bumper. You should hear a distinct whine or buzz for a few seconds. It'll only be for a few seconds because this is the where the fuel system primes itself.
Also another good indicator that youre not getting fuel is the lack of the gasoline smell after you've cranked it for about 8 seconds. And just so all of you guys know NEVER EVER CRANK A CAR FOR MORE THAN 8 SECONDS. Doing so can can fry out the starter, and if you are getting gas, the gas will wash away any oil that you've got on the cylinder walls and cause some major scratches (engine damage).

Update: The CFX3200 rig stayed on for a total of ~27 hours without any issues. Im backing up all my data off of one of my RE16's to get it ready for RAID. Man I need a new DVD burner this :swearing: thing is taking an hour to burn a data DVD









As for windows XP, you can still update to SP3 if you've got a *cough* "bad" copy. Just download it and burn it to a CD, I've done that with all the service packs, it makes installs very quick as opposed to having to download them everytime.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


ITs the pump or the fuel pump relay which should be in the underhood fuse box. Its probably labeled power distribution box. In order to find out which relay it is you'll need a manual as most of them are multifunction. Or you can ask the guys over at Mustang Forums. Theyre usually pretty nice and for the most part very knowledgeable. I used to be a "regular" over there.







I'll see if I still have my 94-98 manual around here somewhere.

As for a way to check if its the pump, have someone turn the key to the on position (do not crank)while you've got your head down by the back bumper. You should hear a distinct whine or buzz for a few seconds. It'll only be for a few seconds because this is the where the fuel system primes itself.
Also another good indicator that youre not getting fuel is the lack of the gasoline smell after you've cranked it for about 8 seconds. And just so all of you guys know NEVER EVER CRANK A CAR FOR MORE THAN 8 SECONDS. Doing so can can fry out the starter, and if you are getting gas, the gas will wash away any oil that you've got on the cylinder walls and cause some major scratches (engine damage).

Update: The CFX3200 rig stayed on for a total of ~27 hours without any issues. Im backing up all my data off of one of my RE16's to get it ready for RAID. Man I need a new DVD burner this :swearing: thing is taking an hour to burn a data DVD









As for windows XP, you can still update to SP3 if you've got a *cough* "bad" copy. Just download it, I've done that with all the service packs, it makes installs very quick as opposed to having to download them.


Thanks for the link Omega. I have since checked the fule main fuse. This car does not have a fule relay but it does have a start relay. Good advice on not trying to start a car past the 8 second barrier....









I found the valve stem puel pressure check on the far side of the fuel rail away from the main fuel intake to the fule rails and zero pressure...

So I'm gonna try to disconnect the main inlet fuel line to make sure there is not clogs in the line before it hits the main fuel rails.

The fuel pump happens to be in the tank and that is the last thing I want to check at this point as it would require a fuel tank removal unless I have an access hole in the trunk... I have not looked yet becaue of my bostin Acustics speaker box that is stuffed in the trunk. I did not want to advertise it in front of the neighbors. Looks like I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place.

Sorry guys did not mean to venture off toppic... If any one really cares to follow my progress or help me out w/this then I'll sugest a PM before we get an off toppic warning...

Back on toppic... My pc is not able to connect to the net via wireless:swearing:

I am seing packets being sent but none received. So I'm gonna attatch the antena to see if that is the problem...

Woah what a day...

N2G


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


EDIT: Thinker I ran seatools long test on the drive last night and it also failed that.


BlackOmega, are you saying the drive failed the extended surface scan or are saying the test failed to start? Perhaps I'm misunderstanding you.

Fill me in on the details

Good luck


----------



## FatalityxZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Back on toppic... My pc is not able to connect to the net via wireless:swearing:

I am seing packets being sent but none received. So I'm gonna attatch the antena to see if that is the problem...

Woah what a day...

N2G


Last time that happened to me, I repaired the connection, unplugged the Ethernet cable and plugged it back it, it worked fine.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, are you saying the drive failed the extended surface scan or are saying the test failed to start? Perhaps I'm misunderstanding you.

Fill me in on the details

Good luck










 Sorry about the confusion (again







). The drive failed the test. Itt started just fine and got about ~40% of the way through it and then it said it failed. 
No matter though I pulled that drive out.

And now for yet another update to my CFX3200. I got everything all swapped around and both of my WD 250 RE16's setup. I tried using the ULI SATA connectors for the RAID array. It sees both of the drives, but in windows setup, even after hitting F6 and utilizing the RAID driver disk, it doesn't see the drives as one. Instead it sees them as 2.








When I tried setting them up for RAID using ULi, in the Hit F4 to setup RAID screen, when I hit F4 it says there are no drives hooked up. Yet it sees them perfectly fine in the BIOS and windows setup.
So I just decided to use the Sil SATA connectors. Everything worked as it should. I have them setup in RAID 0.

I'd still like to use the ULi connectors. I wonder if maybe I just missed a step for them to actually RAID?


----------



## Blitz6804

Sorry BlackOmega, I am stumped regards the ULi RAID. The only RAID I ever built was on an nForce3 with the simple-and-straightforward NVRaid setup.


----------



## kitt3

Iam sorry guys but so its not possible to find usbport clock? for windows xp64 or not possible to find another way?







.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


My pc is not able to connect to the net via wireless

I am seeing packets being sent but none received. So I'm gonna attach the antenna to see if that is the problem...


N2Gaming, have you tried a wired connection and if so does that work? Try also power cycling the router (obvious one there). Are any other PC's able to access the wireless router?

No worries on the off topic, it happens in here all the time.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Sorry about the confusion (again







). The drive failed the test. Itt started just fine and got about ~40% of the way through it and then it said it failed.


BlackOmega, that may explain why you were experiencing issues with the OS. At least we know the drive is bad now.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I tried using the ULI SATA connectors for the RAID array. It sees both of the drives, but in windows setup, even after hitting F6 and utilizing the RAID driver disk, it doesn't see the drives as one. Instead it sees them as 2.








When I tried setting them up for RAID using ULi, in the Hit F4 to setup RAID screen, when I hit F4 it says there are no drives hooked up. Yet it sees them perfectly fine in the BIOS and windows setup.


From what I understand if the drives are showing up on POST then that means they aren't running on the raid controller. The controller is separate and should show up later on after the first initial post screen with the drives. This is what I have seen on desktop boards though. Gateway, Dell Power Edge and Proliant servers all display the raid configuration at POST.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kitt3*


Iam sorry guys but so its not possible to find usbport clock? for windows xp64 or not possible to find another way?







.


Kitt3, perhaps you can fill me in on what a "usbport clock" is? Is this a separate device that plugs into the USB ports?

Good luck guys


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, have you tried a wired connection and if so does that work? Try also power cycling the router (obvious one there). Are any other PC's able to access the wireless router?

Thanks thlnk3r, I am able to use my wired connections and a usb belkin wifi G wireless adaptor on the same computer in question. However when I try to use the wireless adaptor that comes w/the mobo it does not want to receive for some reason. I'm starting to wonder if it is the wirless adaptor that is bad or is there is some kind of windows setting that is not allowing this paticular device to work properly...

N2G


----------



## kitt3

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, have you tried a wired connection and if so does that work? Try also power cycling the router (obvious one there). Are any other PC's able to access the wireless router?

No worries on the off topic, it happens in here all the time.

BlackOmega, that may explain why you were experiencing issues with the OS. At least we know the drive is bad now.

From what I understand if the drives are showing up on POST then that means they aren't running on the raid controller. The controller is separate and should show up later on after the first initial post screen with the drives. This is what I have seen on desktop boards though. Gateway, Dell Power Edge and Proliant servers all display the raid configuration at POST.

Kitt3, perhaps you can fill me in on what a "usbport clock" is? Is this a separate device that plugs into the USB ports?

Good luck guys


No, its my regualar usbs I want to increase poll rate for mouse from 125hz to 500hz and same goes to keyboard you know less latency.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 

BlackOmega, that may explain why you were experiencing issues with the OS. At least we know the drive is bad now.

From what I understand if the drives are showing up on POST then that means they aren't running on the raid controller. The controller is separate and should show up later on after the first initial post screen with the drives. This is what I have seen on desktop boards though. Gateway, Dell Power Edge and Proliant servers all display the raid configuration at POST.

Good luck guys

I dunno whats with the Maxtor drive. It tests bad all over the place yet seems to work just fine. And the OS issues were actually caused by Fan2. Since its been disconnected I haven't had 1 issue.

As for the drives showing up in POST, I honestly don't know. It goes by so damn quick I don't ever get a chance to see. But the screen right after that, where it says to "Hit F4 to set up a RAID array. But it does say Silicon image at the top. I wonder if there is another place where I'm supposed to enter the ULi RAID setup?

But so far so good. I've got em working on the Sil controller and it seems to work great. I'll download HDtach and see what kind of read & write times I'm getting.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kitt3* 
No, its my regualar usbs I want to increase poll rate for mouse from 125hz to 500hz and same goes to keyboard you know less latency.

Unless you have data transfer rate issues with USB Hard drives and or Thumb drives, I really do not think the hassle of trying to do what you want to do is worth it. The latency on a keyboard is negligible at best, non-existent at worst. I have seen no difference between a USB and a PS/2 keyboard, aside of maybe the latter is more reliable. For a laser mouse perhaps your argument is stronger, but again, even with my Logitech turned all the way up to its max on DPI and reporting rate, I see no odd issues at all.

BlackOmega: It goes without saying, but you have tried the newest BIOS*, which has changes made to the ULi southbridge, yes? According to the manual*, the "SATA" features enable the ULi southbridge. On page 155, you have "Serial ATA Controller" and "RAID Function" both set to enabled yes? To access the ULi controller (when turned on), you will press Ctrl+A. The Sil controller is accessed via Ctrl+S or F4 as you have already discovered.

*DFI's website, being hosted in Taiwan, is infuriatingly slow most of the time. It is not just you.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kitt3*


No, its my regualar usbs I want to increase poll rate for mouse from 125hz to 500hz and same goes to keyboard you know less latency.


If you are experiencing problems w/usb periferals then I would suspect you need to move your mobo jumpers to supply the correct voltage to the usb ports. Less that I have never heard of what you are trying to do and did not realize it was something that I should have to worry about. Hope this helps..

Good Luck,

N2G


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Thanks thlnk3r, I am able to use my wired connections and a usb belkin wifi G wireless adaptor on the same computer in question. However when I try to use the wireless adaptor that comes w/the mobo it does not want to receive for some reason. I'm starting to wonder if it is the wirless adaptor that is bad or is there is some kind of windows setting that is not allowing this paticular device to work properly...

N2Gaming, is the wireless adapter in question able to see your AP? One suggestion that may help, uninstall the adapter, restart your computer and reinstall it. You could also try removing the AP from your saved wireless connections and then reconnect to it (re-enter your wep/wpa key).

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I dunno whats with the Maxtor drive. It tests bad all over the place yet seems to work just fine. And the OS issues were actually caused by Fan2. Since its been disconnected I haven't had 1 issue.

As for the drives showing up in POST, I honestly don't know. It goes by so damn quick I don't ever get a chance to see. But the screen right after that, where it says to "Hit F4 to set up a RAID array. But it does say Silicon image at the top. I wonder if there is another place where I'm supposed to enter the ULi RAID setup?

But so far so good. I've got em working on the Sil controller and it seems to work great. I'll download HDtach and see what kind of read & write times I'm getting.

BlackOmega, if the diagnostic test failed then I would just toss the drive. I may work fine in Windows but as soon as you hit that one bad sector then you'll have various data issues. Crack the drive open and use it for show and tell









At POST hit the "Pause/Break" button. That will pause the screen and let you view whats showing up. Have you tried leaving the ULi controller enabled and then disabling the Sil controller?

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


BlackOmega: It goes without saying, but you have tried the newest BIOS*, which has changes made to the ULi southbridge, yes? According to the manual*, the "SATA" features enable the ULi southbridge. On page 155, you have "Serial ATA Controller" and "RAID Function" both set to enabled yes? To access the ULi controller (when turned on), you will press Ctrl+A. The Sil controller is accessed via Ctrl+S or F4 as you have already discovered.

*DFI's website, being hosted in Taiwan, is infuriatingly slow most of the time. It is not just you.


 Thanx Blitz









And yeah every time I have to download something from Asia it typically _very_ slow.

Well it appears that I have the old/original BIOS as it doesn't have the ULI RAID update. I looked and looked through the BIOS and couldn't find anywhere to enable a RAID array for the ULI chipset. 
Looks like the new BIOS has a revision for this. And hopefully it'll take care of the misspellings







.

But now here is my dilemma, I've already installed ~86Gb worth of content







. But I suppose reinstalling and setting up a successful RAID on the ULi chipset would be some sort of a "breakthrough"









Well, it looks as though I have to reinstall another OS so I can get my other rig running (and folding) as the HDD got borked when I was switching drivers from the Asus to DFI.

Once again thanks Blitz









PS: Hows Vista running on your craptop?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, if the diagnostic test failed then I would just toss the drive. I may work fine in Windows but as soon as you hit that one bad sector then you'll have various data issues. Crack the drive open and use it for show and tell









At POST hit the "Pause/Break" button. That will pause the screen and let you view whats showing up. Have you tried leaving the ULi controller enabled and then disabling the Sil controller?

Good luck










 Well here's the odd thing th|nk3r, when I first started using this drive and loaded the OS on to it, when I tried to defrag it, it wouldn't. No matter, I used it anyway. But the other day when I ran the defrag again it defragged.








Regardless, even if it is a somewhat defective drive it'll do for a folding rig. Not to mention I need it now as I think I borked my WD SE16. It had drivers set for my old Asus board and I was in the process of changing them over. I installed the Nvidia firewall that came with my DFI software, after I restarted it kept BSODing. Even in safe mode I couldn't get it to boot up. So I'll probably load a new OS on to the Maxtor drive and retrieve the info I've got on it. Then _finally_ I'll be able to set up a dedicated folding rig.

And no I haven't tried disabling the Sil controller, but as I've come to find out I've got the old BIOS. The new BIOS has an update for the ULI RAID BIOS.

And thanks for the pause/break tip on the POST screen







+1 imaginary rep









EDIT: Anyone have a spare NB fan for a DFI board?


----------



## Blitz6804

To clarify, you are not installing the nVidia firewall on a drive on the CFX 3200 right?

If you cannot boot to safe mode, can you boot to "last known good configurations?" I have had cases where safe mode fails, but the other works.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


To clarify, you are not installing the nVidia firewall on a drive on the CFX 3200 right?


 No it was on my NF4 rig. I'm going to do a fresh install on the ATA drive and see if I can salvage any of the info on the WD.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


If you cannot boot to safe mode, can you boot to "last known good configurations?" I have had cases where safe mode fails, but the other works.


 I tried all of the options in safe mode including last known good config to no avail. So I am going to attempt to slave the WD.

EDIT: I ran HDtach (short test) on my RAID array and it averaged 83.5MB/s with a max of 117MB/s.


----------



## Blitz6804

Hm... interesting... check this out:

I just ran HD Tach on both my disks. The SATA-I drive (80 GB Western Digital SATA-I, 8 MB cache) and it got 51.5 MBps average, 118.2 MBps burst. My SATA-II drive (750 GB Hitachi SATA-II, 32 MB cache) got 73.0 MBps average with a 200.4 MBps burst. What to make of it? I guess we see if you want a high burst rate, go with one fast drive. If you want a high average rate, go with a pair of lesser disks.


----------



## thlnk3r

BlackOmega & Blitz, isn't the nVidia Firewall a bit iffy when installed?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I guess we see if you want a high burst rate, go with one fast drive. If you want a high average rate, go with a pair of lesser disks.

Blitz, it also depends what stripe size BlackOmega went with not to mention he's also running his drives on a SATA 1 controller so he is limited by that bus speed (as oppose to your SATA II tests). Also remember that more drives equals more disk I/O so there still is some advantage there. If you have any hard drive intensive software you could also run that and check "perfmon" at the same time. Add the counter PhysicalDisk->Disk Transfers/sec. This will give you an idea on how your drives are performing. Perfmon is installed by Default in Windows. Go to Start->Run and type "perfmon". It's a very powerful tool









Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Thlnk3r: I never tried it; I rely on McAfee and Spybot, and, if in Vista, Defender as well.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Thlnk3r: I never tried it; I rely on McAfee and Spybot, and, if in Vista, Defender as well.

Blitz, I've never actually tried the nvidia firewall either but I've always heard issues with it. Doesn't every software firewall have issues though (blocking/annoyances)









Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Hm... interesting... check this out:

I just ran HD Tach on both my disks. The SATA-I drive (80 GB Western Digital SATA-I, 8 MB cache) and it got 51.5 MBps average, 118.2 MBps burst. My SATA-II drive (750 GB Hitachi SATA-II, 32 MB cache) got 73.0 MBps average with a 200.4 MBps burst. What to make of it? I guess we see if you want a high burst rate, go with one fast drive. If you want a high average rate, go with a pair of lesser disks.


 Hmm well that is very interesting indeed, and as th|nk3r pointed out, the Sil is SATA I. 
And your test shows me the advantage of a large cache. As your average is close to mine. My drives are 16mb cache, BTW. But your burst rate is through the roof.







.

I'll definitely give the ULI RAID a shot and hopefully It'll work so I can utilize the full bandwidth of SATAII.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega & Blitz, isn't the nVidia Firewall a bit iffy when installed?

Blitz, it also depends what stripe size BlackOmega went with not to mention he's also running his drives on a SATA 1 controller so he is limited by that bus speed (as oppose to your SATA II tests). Also remember that more drives equals more disk I/O so there still is some advantage there. If you have any hard drive intensive software you could also run that and check "perfmon" at the same time. Add the counter PhysicalDisk->Disk Transfers/sec. This will give you an idea on how your drives are performing. Perfmon is installed by Default in Windows. Go to Start->Run and type "perfmon". It's a very powerful tool









Good luck


 LoL, I dont know about the Nvidia firewall, as I haven't even gotten a chance to use it







. But looking at the results already I don't think I'll be in too big of a hurry to use it anytime soon.

And I'm glad you brought up stripe sizes. When I was setting it up I was wondering which would be the best. I actually went with the largest stripe size I could, IIRC 128kb. What are the advantages or disadvantages of running a large or small stripe? My reasoning with going with the larger stripes was that the drives wouldn't be accessed as often, therefore reducing the chances of them wearing out prematurely.
On another note in regards to HDDs', I read an article the other day that was correlating the frequency of HDD failure and operating temps. Come to find out that HDDs' that were kept at a temp <49*C had a noticeably higher failure rate than HDDs' that ran @ temps >50*C. 
After reading this, I have become concerned about my HDDs' in my Cm590. They're mounting in the same cage as the front intake fan.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

The nVidia-supplied firewall is known to cause far many more problems than it can supposedly prevent, per widespread reports. I've never used it as a consequence.


----------



## Blitz6804

The stripe size you chose will depend on what you use the drives for. Any file that does not fit within a stripe will be split across the drives, making it read / write faster, since it goes to both drives. On the other hand, if you have the stripe size incredibly small, you lose speed due to the overhead in breaking it into parts. The disadvantage of a large stripe is: what happens if you have a file just big enough that it cannot fit. Let us say you have a 512 KB stripe and a 514 KB file. It would need to go on both drives; let us say 257 KB on both drives; you now have 255 KB that is unwritable on both drives with the end result that your 514 KB file is taking up 1024 KB on the array. This happens with single-drive configurations too, but it is less frequent.

Test it yourself.

Make a text file with a sole character in it. Save the TXT. Right-click on the TXT and check properties. The file will be exactly one byte (since each letter is exactly 8 bits) but the size on disk will be larger. In my case, 4 KB. So in other words, a 1 character TXT file will take up as much room on my hard drive as a 4096 character TXT file.


----------



## pez

AVG + Windows Defender = Win


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


But your burst rate is through the roof.







.


BlackOmega, that because he ran the test on a SATA II drive (300Mb/s).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


And I'm glad you brought up stripe sizes. When I was setting it up I was wondering which would be the best. I actually went with the largest stripe size I could, IIRC 128kb. What are the advantages or disadvantages of running a large or small stripe? My reasoning with going with the larger stripes was that the drives wouldn't be accessed as often, therefore reducing the chances of them wearing out prematurely.
On another note in regards to HDDs', I read an article the other day that was correlating the frequency of HDD failure and operating temps. Come to find out that HDDs' that were kept at a temp <49*C had a noticeably higher failure rate than HDDs' that ran @ temps >50*C. 
After reading this, I have become concerned about my HDDs' in my Cm590. They're mounting in the same cage as the front intake fan.










Here's some information about stripe sizes: http://www.storagereview.com/guide20...erfStripe.html. Look under "Tip". That should give you a better understanding. There's actually no "preferred stripe size". What you plan on running should depend on the stripe size. Most of the servers I set up at work by default are 64k stripe size.

Make sure your drives are receiving plenty of airflow. I'm sure the MTBF goes down when the drives are constantly hot. Try and keep the temperatures below 40C. Larger drives that have more platters typically run warmer.

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


The stripe size you chose will depend on what you use the drives for. Any file that does not fit within a stripe will be split across the drives, making it read / write faster, since it goes to both drives. On the other hand, if you have the stripe size incredibly small, you lose speed due to the overhead in breaking it into parts. The disadvantage of a large stripe is: what happens if you have a file just big enough that it cannot fit. Let us say you have a 512 KB stripe and a 514 KB file. It would need to go on both drives; let us say 257 KB on both drives; you now have 255 KB that is unwritable on both drives with the end result that your 514 KB file is taking up 1024 KB on the array. This happens with single-drive configurations too, but it is less frequent.

Test it yourself.

Make a text file with a sole character in it. Save the TXT. Right-click on the TXT and check properties. The file will be exactly one byte (since each letter is exactly 8 bits) but the size on disk will be larger. In my case, 4 KB. So in other words, a 1 character TXT file will take up as much room on my hard drive as a 4096 character TXT file.


 Same here, 4KB. What stripe size would you use if most of the files being accessed are larger files? According to the page that th|nk3r linked for large files smaller is better. For small files larger is better.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, that because he ran the test on a SATA II drive (300Mb/s).

Here's some information about stripe sizes: http://www.storagereview.com/guide20...erfStripe.html. Look under "Tip". That should give you a better understanding. There's actually no "preferred stripe size". What you plan on running should depend on the stripe size. Most of the servers I set up at work by default are 64k stripe size.

Make sure your drives are receiving plenty of airflow. I'm sure the MTBF goes down when the drives are constantly hot. Try and keep the temperatures below 40C. Larger drives that have more platters typically run warmer.

Good luck










 Thanks for info th|nk3r







...

Ive found this bit of useful info:

Quote:



And if you must have a rule of thumb, I'd say this: transactional environments where you have large numbers of small reads and writes are probably better off with larger stripe sizes (but only to a point); applications where smaller numbers of larger files need to be read quickly will likely prefer smaller stripes. Obviously, if you need to balance these requirements, choose something in the middle.


 Since I am mostly using my storage for games that typically are >750Mb, going by this "rule of thumb" I should probably use a smaller stripe size. 
Well when I try to set up the ULI RAID array I'll use the smallest stripe size and we'll have a good comparison of the performance difference.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well when I try to set up the ULI RAID array I'll use the smallest stripe size and we'll have a good comparison of the performance difference.


BlackOmega, heck if you lots of time on your hands (which I doubt you do) run a comparison with each stripe size. That would be very interesting to see. That may take some time to complete though. Unless you have your OS already imaged you could just restore to that and just configure the stripe size prior.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

As far as I recall, you want a large stripe for small files (so each one fits into a stripe and prevents wasted space) and a small stripe for large files (so as to have the maximum bandwidth). There has to be a balance between the competing interests though as I said above. I have heard some people say that Stripe should be the same as cluster; this has at least some logical basis. In any event, make sure that your stripe is a multiple of your cluster to prevent wasted space.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, heck if you lots of time on your hands (which I doubt you do) run a comparison with each stripe size. That would be very interesting to see. That may take some time to complete though. Unless you have your OS already imaged you could just restore to that and just configure the stripe size prior.

Good luck



IF I had more time on my hands then I wouldn't mind doing that. But unfortunately school + kid + prego wife + broken car does not contribute itself well to testing :swearing:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


As far as I recall, you want a large stripe for small files (so each one fits into a stripe and prevents wasted space) and a small stripe for large files (so as to have the maximum bandwidth). There has to be a balance between the competing interests though as I said above. I have heard some people say that Stripe should be the same as cluster; this has at least some logical basis. In any event, make sure that your stripe is a multiple of your cluster to prevent wasted space.


 I think I might make a thread about it so I can get the input of more people and perhaps someone already has does several tests with varying stripe sizes. While I'm sure it wont be indentical to my or anyone elses results but for the most part it should be a good comparison.

At any rate, I'm off to do some stoich and PV=nRT. Ill BBL.

Thanx guys


----------



## FatalityxZ

Ahh guys...
I finally convinced my dad to upgrade my computer.
See here: http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...ml#post5910360
But don't worry!
I'll keep using my 939 as my backup/homework computer!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FatalityxZ*


Ahh guys...
I finally convinced my dad to upgrade my computer.
See here: http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...ml#post5910360
But don't worry!
I'll keep using my 939 as my backup/homework computer!


\\

Fold on that mother


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well, it looks as though I have to reinstall another OS so I can get my other rig running *(and folding*) as the HDD got borked when I was switching drivers from the Asus to DFI.

 Then _finally_ I'll be able to set up a *dedicated folding rig*.






































:appl aud:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Fold on that mother





















































:c heers:


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Club S939er OCN Folders, I repeat the call: If you are both a member of the S939 Appreciation Club AND an OCN Folder, please PM me. I've had three respondents so far, but I'd like to see if we can have more than these three dedicated people.









I promise you, the reason for the call out to you is going to be interesting and totally worth your while.









Thanks.


----------



## Blitz6804

BlackOmega, when I was a new forum member, I had a RAID0 setup. One of my first threads was to ask about the ideal stripe size. The general consensus was 128 KB as being a good balance between speed and space.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Club S939er OCN Folders, I repeat the call: If you are both a member of the S939 Appreciation Club AND an OCN Folder, please PM me. I've had three respondents so far, but I'd like to see if we can have more than these three dedicated people.









I promise you, the reason for the call out to you is going to be interesting and totally worth your while.









Thanks.






















































Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
BlackOmega, when I was a new forum member, I had a RAID0 setup. One of my first threads was to ask about the ideal stripe size. The general consensus was 128 KB as being a good balance between speed and space.

IIRC and it's been awhile you want the smallest size for lots of files and larger for huge database's.

On a side note I'm gonna put my digital tuner c ard back in my htpc as I've been to lazy to go out and get a converter box and my state is like one of the only ones that switch:dah: I'm getting sick of watching out of state news!


----------



## BlackOmega

Well that is very interesting indeed. Thanks for the link blitz.









EDIT: Does anyone know if I can simply transfer my RAID array from one controller to another without re-installing? That would save me a lot of time as I've already installed so much stuff.


----------



## Blitz6804

Not usually no. You could take an image, rebuild the array, and copy the image over. (Maybe.) But you cannot use a hardware RAID on a different RAID controller from where it was built.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Not usually no. You could take an image, rebuild the array, and copy the image over. (Maybe.) But you cannot use a hardware RAID on a different RAID controller from where it was built.


 Well thats just silly that I cant just swap it over. Oh well. As for taking an image, I've never actually done that, and until I started posting on OCN I have never heard of it before. Whats it entail?

Well I suppose I had better get cracking on my NF4 rig. I suppose that the time spent re-installing will just be more time that I will "devote" to studying.


----------



## AllenG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Well thats just silly that I cant just swap it over. Oh well. As for taking an image, I've never actually done that, and until I started posting on OCN I have never heard of it before. Whats it entail?

Well I suppose I had better get cracking on my NF4 rig. I suppose that the time spent re-installing will just be more time that I will "devote" to studying.









You can move raid arrays from the same type of controller to the same type of controller no problem, but you cannot take a stripe created on lets say an nforce chipset and expect a highpoint or an ati chipset raid controller to see the array.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well thats just silly that I cant just swap it over. Oh well. As for taking an image, I've never actually done that, and until I started posting on OCN I have never heard of it before. Whats it entail?


BlackOmega, imaging a drive is a really good thing to do after the first initial install of the operating system. This will give you the ability to later restore to that image just in case your OS becomes corrupt, damaged from overclocking ect ect. I have mainly used Norton Ghost and Acronis True Image. From what I hear DriveImage XML is also a great application.

The process is very simple. In most imaging applications the procedure is about the same. The software will take an image of the designated drive and then save it to a certain file format. For example, Acronis saves image files as .TIB. I usually image the drive outside of the operating system with my MiniPE CD which also includes the Acronis utility. I usually save the .TIB file to an external hard drive but sometimes it may go on a network file share. If for some reason I need to image a machine or redo a computer, all I have to do is pop in my MiniPE CD, boot to the Acronis utility and restore the image. There are several imaging applications out there, you just need to find the right one that suits your needs. I also really like Backup Exec because it takes snapshots of files. That is more for Backups then anything though.

Microsoft also provides imaging and deployment tools but those come at a cost.

Hope that helps


----------



## Blitz6804

thlnk3r: What do you suggest we do if the main hard drive to be imaged is fuller than the next largest hard drive we have, thereby making it impossible to image? Buy a bigger hard drive?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


thlnk3r: What do you suggest we do if the main hard drive to be imaged is fuller than the next largest hard drive we have, thereby making it impossible to image? Buy a bigger hard drive?


Blitz, if you are referring to the size of the drive then that does not matter (ie. image a 200GB drive to a 80GB). It shouldn't matter as long as there isn't data being used that exceeds the target drive. Hope that makes sense.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I am talking about a case where there is more data to back up then the backup drive could fit if uncompressed. Is it possible to make the image compressed any aside of putting it into a ZIP, a RAR, an I7 or similar?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I am talking about a case where there is more data to back up then the backup drive could fit if uncompressed. Is it possible to make the image compressed any aside of putting it into a ZIP, a RAR, an I7 or similar?


Blitz, actually yes you can compress the image when you create it. Norton Ghost and Acronis give you a few different options for the type of compression. Obviously high compression takes long for the image to be created. I typically just do "Normal" or "Fast".

Hope that answers your question


----------



## N2Gaming

thlnk3r I don't know if you mentioned this but one other step to take just incase before you clone is to validate your OS copy so you won't have to deal w/it again down the road. I mean if you are trying to validate but you don't have a internet connection or a phone handy then it can be quite a daunting task.







Thanks Comsastic for your service interuptions


----------



## txtmstrjoe

To take a page from Blitz's playbook, I will be presumptive in my interpretation. Perhaps he is asking about when restoring the image to a drive with a capacity smaller than the uncompressed amount of data from the original drive. In other words, say you image a drive with 200GB of content; what if you only have 120GB of maximum capacity in the new drive? Can you restore the image to the 120GB drive? (I believe this is Blitz's question.)


----------



## Blitz6804

No, Thlnk3r got it. I want to make an image of 120 GB of data and store it in a drive that is 80 GB. My alternative is to need to make a RAID 0 of two 80 GBs, and then remove from case when not in use. A daunting task to be sure.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Thanks for the clarification, Blitz.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


thlnk3r I don't know if you mentioned this but one other step to take just incase before you clone is to validate your OS copy so you won't have to deal w/it again down the road. I mean if you are trying to validate but you don't have a internet connection or a phone handy then it can be quite a daunting task.







Thanks Comsastic for your service interuptions










N2Gaming, good idea









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


No, Thlnk3r got it. I want to make an image of 120 GB of data and store it in a drive that is 80 GB. My alternative is to need to make a RAID 0 of two 80 GBs, and then remove from case when not in use. A daunting task to be sure.


Blitz, image creations are usually stored in one file. For example (in Acronis) a 10-15GB image is stored in about a 6GB sized file. Very convenient for storage and backup purposes.

Good luck guys


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, imaging a drive is a really good thing to do after the first initial install of the operating system. This will give you the ability to later restore to that image just in case your OS becomes corrupt, damaged from overclocking ect ect. I have mainly used Norton Ghost and Acronis True Image. From what I hear DriveImage XML is also a great application.

The process is very simple. In most imaging applications the procedure is about the same. The software will take an image of the designated drive and then save it to a certain file format. For example, Acronis saves image files as .TIB. I usually image the drive outside of the operating system with my MiniPE CD which also includes the Acronis utility. I usually save the .TIB file to an external hard drive but sometimes it may go on a network file share. If for some reason I need to image a machine or redo a computer, all I have to do is pop in my MiniPE CD, boot to the Acronis utility and restore the image. There are several imaging applications out there, you just need to find the right one that suits your needs. I also really like Backup Exec because it takes snapshots of files. That is more for Backups then anything though.

Microsoft also provides imaging and deployment tools but those come at a cost.

Hope that helps










 Thanks th|nk3r. Imaginary +rep for you.







I may have to try this sometime.

And well fellas I just bought another 939 board.







A DFI NF4 Ultra SLI-D. Should be seeing it fairly soon







Cant seem to get away from these K8's. 
At any rate, this board will be a perfect setup for folding







That way I'll be able to do it on 1 machine,







:turd: I just realized that Im going to need another larger PSU


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Thanks th|nk3r. Imaginary +rep for you.







I may have to try this sometime.

And well fellas I just bought another 939 board.







A DFI NF4 Ultra SLI-D. Should be seeing it fairly soon







Cant seem to get away from these K8's. 
At any rate, this board will be a perfect setup for folding







That way I'll be able to do it on 1 machine,







:turd: I just realized that Im going to need another larger PSU

















Power supply BFG has a good cheap 550W psu that you can get new for about 50-75 bones depending on the deal at the time. BFG sent me a coupon for being a prefered customer for close to $50.00 but I did not want to pay for their shipping and handling. If your not gonna SLI it just get a good high amp single rail psu for folding.









Good Luck,

N2G


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Power supply BFG has a good cheap 550W psu that you can get new for about 50-75 bones depending on the deal at the time. BFG sent me a coupon for being a prefered customer for close to $50.00 but I did not want to pay for their shipping and handling. If your not gonna SLI it just get a good high amp single rail psu for folding.









Good Luck,

N2G


Thanx N2, Im not sure how much power I'll really need. 1 GSO calls for 26A, and if I'm going to be running 2 of them at full tilt non stop I think I had better get something like Ive already got. Cuz Im not sure if my 500w Antec Sp2.0 will cut the mustard, that and the squealing is enough to drive dogs crazy and people react like fingernails being run down a chalkboard.
But the thing that drives me up a wall with the PCPnC PSU is all the damn wires. There's SO freakin many of em its ridiculous. Every time I mess with it I'm half tempted to get my side cutters out and start cutting, kind of like pruning a Banzai tree. But then I quickly come to my senses.

EDIT: Weird my postbit came back. I havent folded in a month and Im still ranked 717







Just wait till I get 2 of em going


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, if you do not fold for a while, your postbit drops. Once you fold a unit again, it comes back within 48-hours or so. The simple solution BlackOmega is to get a nice modular PSU for your main rig (no loose wires) and put the PCP&P into the folding box. The theory being that a folding box need not be pretty since it will be in an inconspicuous place. I personally opted for a single-rail solution rather than a modular PSU. Spare wires are tied up and stuffed in the gap between the PSU and the top of the case. Out of sight (mostly), out of mind (mostly).


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Cuz Im not sure if my 500w Antec Sp2.0 will cut the mustard, that and the squealing is enough to drive dogs crazy and people react like fingernails being run down a chalkboard.


BlackOmega, the Antec 500W Smartpower 2.0 probably could "power" two video cards in SLI but I can't guarantee a stable machine after that. It only has 26amps on the 12volt rail not to mention it's a 70% efficiency PSU. I have a Antec 350W that also squeals. Either it's poor design or low quality components. The squealing kind of scares me









Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Yeah, if you do not fold for a while, your postbit drops. Once you fold a unit again, it comes back within 48-hours or so. The simple solution BlackOmega is to get a nice modular PSU for your main rig (no loose wires) and put the PCP&P into the folding box. The theory being that a folding box need not be pretty since it will be in an inconspicuous place. I personally opted for a single-rail solution rather than a modular PSU. Spare wires are tied up and stuffed in the gap between the PSU and the top of the case. Out of sight (mostly), out of mind (mostly).


 It's not that my case is a mess, which it isn't, it's just tucking away the excess. Putting the right side cover on my CM can prove to be a chore at times, it was even worse in my Vento 3600.
I was thinking of getting a nice modular unit. I want to get one in the 750w range, with as much amperage as possible of course. Been too lazy to look.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, the Antec 500W Smartpower 2.0 probably could "power" two video cards in SLI but I can't guarantee a stable machine after that. It only has 26amps on the 12volt rail not to mention it's a 70% efficiency PSU. I have a Antec 350W that also squeals. Either it's poor design or low quality components. The squealing kind of scares me









Good luck


 I think the squealing might be a capacitor or a VR, when the GPUs' are under load the +12v drops to 11.6v. Other than that I haven't noticed any unusual behavior. The squeal is so high pitch I swear it must drive the neighbors dogs crazy. 
Yeah it seems as though it wouldn't fare so well under a constant load of 2x9600 folding @ 100%.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
It's not that my case is a mess, which it isn't, it's just tucking away the excess. Putting the right side cover on my CM can prove to be a chore at times, it was even worse in my Vento 3600.
I was thinking of getting a nice modular unit. I want to get one in the 750w range, with as much amperage as possible of course. Been too lazy to look.









I think the squealing might be a capacitor or a VR, when the GPUs' are under load the +12v drops to 11.6v. Other than that I haven't noticed any unusual behavior. The squeal is so high pitch I swear it must drive the neighbors dogs crazy.
Yeah it seems as though it wouldn't fare so well under a constant load of 2x9600 folding @ 100%.

Well for what it's worth I passed on a Corsair 1000HX delivered for $185.00 the guy offered it to me w/a buy it now for $185 and I figured I would bid 169.99 and if some one wanted it more then me then they would get a great deal and it looks like some one did by the skin of their teeth.







Oh well it wont be the last one in this economy...







I figure one of those would cover the 750w requirment and then some. So if your patient and you look hard enough you can get a great deal on ebay.

Good Luck w/that,

N2G

BTW I got the tank bank in and forgot to put the fuel inlet tube in so now I have to loosen the straps and slide it in. I think I'll leve it loose this time untill I know for sure it's a done deal.


----------



## Blitz6804

Speaking of squealing capacitors, my HD 4870x2 grumbles under load. You know, the type of sound your GF makes if you wake her up too early. With RTHDRIBL full screen, I started tried AA full and AA off. Off, it is quiet. 16x it was grumbling. Not loudly (barely hear over the fans) but it still does.


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz, I had similar issues with my X800 Pro and my 3850. The cards were always under load when I noticed this problem.

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Well for what it's worth I passed on a Corsair 1000HX delivered for $185.00 the guy offered it to me w/a buy it now for $185 and I figured I would bid 169.99 and if some one wanted it more then me then they would get a great deal and it looks like some one did by the skin of their teeth.







Oh well it wont be the last one in this economy...







I figure one of those would cover the 750w requirment and then some. So if your patient and you look hard enough you can get a great deal on ebay.

Good Luck w/that,

N2G

BTW I got the tank bank in and forgot to put the fuel inlet tube in so now I have to loosen the straps and slide it in. I think I'll leve it loose this time untill I know for sure it's a done deal.










 That PSu is overkill and its way more than I'd want to spend. I might just get some cheapo or another PCPnC when they go on sale or have a awesome rebate.

As for your stang, yeah it always sucks when you get it all back together and realize you have a part left over. Then you have to take it ALL back apart just to put in 1 stupid little part. You'll get better at it though, that just comes with time.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Speaking of squealing capacitors, my HD 4870x2 grumbles under load. You know, the type of sound your GF makes if you wake her up too early. With RTHDRIBL full screen, I started tried AA full and AA off. Off, it is quiet. 16x it was grumbling. Not loudly (barely hear over the fans) but it still does.


 Has it always done this? Or is this something new? I rma'd one of my GSO's because of squealing under load. They sent me a new one, it squeals but not as loud. I might RMA it again if it gets any louder or just becomes annoying.


----------



## nategr8ns

I had my 8800GT squeal when it wasn't getting enough power.
If I were you I would double check your PCI-e power connectors and maybe try an old power supply.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


I had my 8800GT squeal when it wasn't getting enough power.
If I were you I would double check your PCI-e power connectors and maybe try an old power supply.


 It was definitely get more than enough power. I had it plugged in to my PCPnC PSU. But that didnt matter as it did it with my antec as well. And since I ordered 2 of them for SLI I tested each one individually. 1 squealed, 1 didn't. And well it really wasn't a squeal so much as kind of a rawr type noise that went on and on without end. It didn't matter if I was folding or just playing a game it would do it. But it was clearly audible because it had such a distinct sound to it.

EDIT: Where the hell has everybody been? It's weird looking at this thread, where normally it would be 3 or 4 pages later now, its 3 or 4 posts.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


It was definitely get more than enough power. I had it plugged in to my PCPnC PSU. But that didnt matter as it did it with my antec as well. And since I ordered 2 of them for SLI I tested each one individually. 1 squealed, 1 didn't. And well it really wasn't a squeal so much as kind of a rawr type noise that went on and on without end. It didn't matter if I was folding or just playing a game it would do it. But it was clearly audible because it had such a distinct sound to it.


Hey man all this talk about raid got me interested in seeing how much faster a system would run w/a raid set up. Not to mention txtmstrjoe got me into looking for a decent HDD to pair up with one of my raptors.







I did not get the best deal out there but I did manage to get a 74G Raptor identical to the one I already have. Just got it today.







Went to let the dog out in the front yard and low and behold a small box sitting on my front portch. USPS is good for not ringing my doorbell when they drop off a package.







Any way I have it and now I am about to run an extensive drive test to verify it's integrity before I leave the ebay seller feed back.

Wish me and the drive luck.









N2G

Edit:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


EDIT: Where the hell has everybody been? It's weird looking at this thread, where normally it would be 3 or 4 pages later now, its 3 or 4 posts.


Looks to be that way lately... I was just thinking that myself...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hey man all this talk about raid got me interested in seeing how much faster a system would run w/a raid set up. Not to mention txtmstrjoe got me into looking for a decent HDD to pair up with one of my raptors.







I did not get the best deal out there but I did manage to get a 74G Raptor identical to the one I already have. Just got it today.










N2Gaming, congrats on your new purchase. I loved my Raptor. Quick, solid and reliable. Did you get a FD drive? Please include some HDTach numbers if you have time.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, congrats on your new purchase. I loved my Raptor. Quick, solid and reliable. Did you get a FD drive? Please include some HDTach numbers if you have time.

Good luck









Thank you,

I'm not sure what a FD drive is but I'm gonna guess a Floppy Disk. Yes I have one of those. I created the tools disk on cd but the system that I installed the new drive in would not boot to dos from the WD tools floppy so I had to use one of my older win 98 boot disks to get a dos screen so that I could boot to the WD diagnostics. The WD Raptor HDD checked out fine.

How would I go about providing HDTach numbers?

N2G


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thank you,

I'm not sure what a FD drive is but I'm gonna guess a Floppy Disk. Yes I have one of those. I created the tools disk on cd but the system that I installed the new drive in would not boot to dos from the WD tools floppy so I had to use one of my older win 98 boot disks to get a dos screen so that I could boot to the WD diagnostics. The WD Raptor HDD checked out fine.

How would I go about providing HDTach numbers?

N2G


N2Gaming, there were a few different Raptor revisions. The last one was WD740AD*FD*. The FD model came with 16MB of cache as oppose to the AD model that came with 8MB of cache.

HDTach can be downloaded by going here. I typically run the quick benchmark. It should give you a graph with a Burst Rates, Avg Reads, Access times ect.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, there were a few different Raptor revisions. The last one was WD740AD*FD*. The FD model came with 16MB of cache as oppose to the AD model that came with 8MB of cache.

HDTach can be downloaded by going here. I typically run the quick benchmark. It should give you a graph with a Burst Rates, Avg Reads, Access times ect.

Good luck










Oh yeah I got the 16Mb Cache.







and thanks for the link. coincidentally you maid me look @ my other originallllllly purchased 74G Raptor purchased a couple of years ago and it too is the FD FTW


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, there were a few different Raptor revisions. The last one was WD740AD*FD*. The FD model came with 16MB of cache as oppose to the AD model that came with 8MB of cache.

HDTach can be downloaded by going here. I typically run the quick benchmark. It should give you a graph with a Burst Rates, Avg Reads, Access times ect.

Good luck









I've run both the long and short test. Weird thing is my average goes up 10mb/s with the long test. Heres a screenshot of the long test.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I've run both the long and short test. Weird thing is my average goes up 10mb/s with the long test. Heres a screenshot of the long test.

BlackOmega, that average read looks pretty good. Is this on the SATA 150 controller or the SATA II?

Good luck


----------



## AllenG

raid0 for the win... i remember switching to a raid 0 5 years ago from a single drive, havent gone back since. lol You'll like it, its just a pain loading raid drivers and a pain when the drives give problems. I've gotten into the habit of replacing all my drives every 2 yrs or so (all but one of my volumes is a raid 0), just to knock down my chances of having problems.

speeds go up with the long test because the drives and controller have a longer amount of time to gain speed and sustain it.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Mmm...BlackOmega, you do know what you're doing, right? You're giving me more and more incentive to go and get my own RAID 0 set up.









@ AllenG, interesting comments on why the Long test gives higher speeds.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, that average read looks pretty good. Is this on the SATA 150 controller or the SATA II?

Good luck

It's still on the 150 controller. Been busy with my probe lately (Timing belt, water pump, valve cover gaskets, intake gaskets, thermostat, replacing a bunch of busted vacuum lines, heater hoses and breather tubes)so I haven't had time to really mess around with computers as much as I'd like to.
But I want to try out the ULi controller just to see if it'd be any faster.

That and I'm waiting on a DFi NF4 SLI board from burrbit so I'll do a bunch of hardware switching then.

And this is totally off the topic of RAID, but the other day I was thinking of using my lower slot on the CFX board just so the 4870 isn't blocking _most_ of the NB fan. Well I searched and searched in the BIOS to see if there is a way of switching the primary PCIe slot. Well there isn't, what the hell is the point of having 2 16x PCIe slots if I cant use them individually. Hell my NF4 ultra D/G can do it why cant this one? And it's got me wondering about the NF4 SLI board, can you make the lower slot the primary?

N2 and th|nk3r this is for you guys (you'll probably remove it though







)


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AllenG*


raid0 for the win... i remember switching to a raid 0 5 years ago from a single drive, havent gone back since. lol You'll like it, its just a pain loading raid drivers and a pain when the drives give problems. I've gotten into the habit of replacing all my drives every 2 yrs or so (all but one of my volumes is a raid 0), just to knock down my chances of having problems.

speeds go up with the long test because the drives and controller have a longer amount of time to gain speed and sustain it.



Yeah I have noticed my load times have decreased pretty well, especially during startup. It seems as though most games are faster too.

Good point on the testing.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Mmm...BlackOmega, you do know what you're doing, right? You're giving me more and more incentive to go and get my own RAID 0 set up.


















, maybe we'll get them working right one day.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Off-Topic Alert: BlackOmega, I used to drive a 1996 Probe GT. What year is yours?









I had to sell the old girl since mine had entered the stage where the cost of continual maintenance and upkeep was going to be more than the actual value of the car. In a way I miss the old girl, but I'm loving my new ride even more.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


N2 and th|nk3r this is for you guys (you'll probably remove it though







)







Yeah! Woo Hoo, right on man. A song quickly came to mind. Loverboy Loving every minute of it " Alright "








I know old azz song but that's what came to mind as soon as I saw that torque wheelie. None of my cars will ever be punished that much let alone have the kind of mods required for such vehicular punishments.









N2G


----------



## SuppA-SnipA

Athlon 64 4000 @ 2.7ghz


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Off-Topic Alert: BlackOmega, I used to drive a 1996 Probe GT. What year is yours?









I had to sell the old girl since mine had entered the stage where the cost of continual maintenance and upkeep was going to be more than the actual value of the car. In a way I miss the old girl, but I'm loving my new ride even more.











 Mines a 94 GT. She's got 230K on the odo. I got the car for free, sort of. I JB welded a buddies cylinder head, took me like 20 minutes.








When I got it the engine was knocking REALLY bad and on my way home it threw a connecting rod out of the oil pan and in to the exhaust. You should've seen it, it was like the smoke screen from Spy hunter.








Since then I've put an engine, transmission, all new suspension (lowered it 2"+) and brakes in to it. And I got some rims and tires for it.

Here's what she looks like now ( I took this picture sitting on my butt







)
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/509117_1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Yeah! Woo Hoo, right on man. A song quickly came to mind. Loverboy Loving every minute of it " Alright "







I know old azz song but that's what came to mind as soon as I saw that torque wheelie. None of my cars will ever be punished that much let alone have the kind of mods required for such vehicular punishments.









N2G



That car looks like my '85 from the back end.







And I wouldn't mind making a car that's capable of that, but if it really launched that hard it would have wheelie bars on it. Safety first.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SuppA-SnipA* 

Athlon 64 4000 @ 2.7ghz

SuppA-SnipA, do you have a CPU-Z validation link for your Socket 939 overclock? Let us know and I'll add you to the roster.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Mines a 94 GT. She's got 230K on the odo. I got the car for free, sort of. I JB welded a buddies cylinder head, took me like 20 minutes.








When I got it the engine was knocking REALLY bad and on my way home it threw a connecting rod out of the oil pan and in to the exhaust. You should've seen it, it was like the smoke screen from Spy hunter.








Since then I've put an engine, transmission, all new suspension (lowered it 2"+) and brakes in to it. And I got some rims and tires for it.

Here's what she looks like now ( I took this picture sitting on my butt







)
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/509117_1

That car looks like my '85 from the back end.







And I wouldn't mind making a car that's capable of that, but if it really launched that hard it would have wheelie bars on it. Safety first.










Since we are all off topic. The Probe looks nice. I thought the GT would have some kind of wing. Hmm oh well.

I use to dream about getting a 86 Must GT W/T-Tops and upgrading the rear qrtr windows to 87 along w/the engine and a GT tall with some 87 LX tail lights and then put saleen front and side skirts with a duel ram air hood. I ended up w/the 98 GT that I have now for $2100.00







Just a added bonus of being a car hauler. Actually that is how I got all three of my most recent cars. 03 Xtream, 98 regal GS & the 98 GT. Ideally I want to purchase a 98 Cobra or something close to that year and make the conversion. Most likely I would by a totaled or a dead engine car and swop all the cobra parts like engine, Trani, Rear end, coil springs, Computer etc etc. That is another project down the road. heck the cobra has almost an extra 100HP but I can get at least 40 more horses w/a paxton SC


----------



## txtmstrjoe

BlackOmega, good looking ride there.







One thing about the last-gen Probe is that the design has that timeless quality about it. It's a sixteen year-old design, but it still looks very fresh and modern.







Mine was black, with a spoiler. (This is for N2G: Not all GTs had the spoiler. I had a 1995 GT as well; that one did not have a spoiler.)

Back on topic: I hope to eke out some time for some PC hardware work this weekend. Too many projects...


----------



## thlnk3r

N2Gaming, take a look at my picture albums. You'll see my baby.

Joe, same here buddy. Why is it so difficult to find time these days to do that stuff


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, take a look at my picture albums. You'll see my baby.

Joe, same here buddy. Why is it so difficult to find time these days to do that stuff










Nice car, I like the color and the fact that you have the last year of that body style. I always tend to get the last year of any body syle so that I get the most recent upgrades before they go and make a complete change over. Kind of like my 03 S-10 Xtream and the 98 GT


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Since we are all off topic. The Probe looks nice. I thought the GT would have some kind of wing. Hmm oh well.

I use to dream about getting a 86 Must GT W/T-Tops and upgrading the rear qrtr windows to 87 along w/the engine and a GT tall with some 87 LX tail lights and then put saleen front and side skirts with a duel ram air hood. I ended up w/the 98 GT that I have now for $2100.00







Just a added bonus of being a car hauler. Actually that is how I got all three of my most recent cars. 03 Xtream, 98 regal GS & the 98 GT. Ideally I want to purchase a 98 Cobra or something close to that year and make the conversion. Most likely I would by a totaled or a dead engine car and swop all the cobra parts like engine, Trani, Rear end, coil springs, Computer etc etc. That is another project down the road. heck the cobra has almost an extra 100HP but I can get at least 40 more horses w/a paxton SC


Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
BlackOmega, good looking ride there.







One thing about the last-gen Probe is that the design has that timeless quality about it. It's a sixteen year-old design, but it still looks very fresh and modern.







Mine was black, with a spoiler. (This is for N2G: Not all GTs had the spoiler. I had a 1995 GT as well; that one did not have a spoiler.)

Back on topic: I hope to eke out some time for some PC hardware work this weekend. Too many projects...

Thanks guys








I always liked the look of the 2ng gen GT's. They look very sporty, but are kind of slow (mind you my DD used to be a 400hp mustang). And I totally agree with you Joe about the looks. After I lowered it and put those wheels on it, people constantly stare. I've been thinking of getting a really light tint job on it like 50-60%. Just enough to make it slightly dark but not dark enough to get negative attention from Johnny Law.

As for the spoiler, they either had a wiper or a spoiler as far as I know of the GT models. Mine has a wiper, I actually like the missing wing look. I think it makes the lines cleaner and smoother (notice I removed the side moldings), and I think the spoiler actually looks out of place. It doesn't flow well. This car is more for looks than speed.

I've been wanting to make it a RWD V8. I've had 3 drivetrain ideas. The 3.4 V8/5spd out of a Lincoln LS/E. Then the next 2 are either a DOHC 4.6 Cobra/Lincoln Mark 8 motor (preferably a 04/05 supercharged Cobra motor), or a 5.0L noth 4.6/5.0 would be using a Tremec trans and the independent rear suspension off of a 03/04 Cobra.

And here's kind of a Probe fun fact. The 93-97 Probe GT's have the exact same drag coefficient as the Ford GT's, which are the 2 most aerodynamic vehicles that Ford has ever produced. So there's a bonus, its light (2800 lbs.) has good aerodynamics. With the right drivetrain it would be one hell of a Corvette killer. And it would be unique, because when was the last time you've seen a RWD v8 probe?


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Has it always done this? Or is this something new? I rma'd one of my GSO's because of squealing under load. They sent me a new one, it squeals but not as loud. I might RMA it again if it gets any louder or just becomes annoying.


From the day I got it yes. I only notice it when load is high enough to cause it but not yet high enough to kick up the leaf blower. Once that leaf blower kicks in, you are lucky you can hear yourself think.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


If I were you I would double check your PCI-e power connectors and maybe try an old power supply.


I sold all my old power supplies; this one provides a single 52-amp 12 V rail.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Where the hell has everybody been? It's weird looking at this thread, where normally it would be 3 or 4 pages later now, its 3 or 4 posts.


I have an excuse... I am not home right now. This post is being typed on my dad's stock E6850 w/ 8800 GT SLI. *Shiver.* On the other hand, at 1600x1200, 4x AA, everything maxed out, he puts out a respectible 100+ FPS in CoD4. Unless my memory is bad (Pez... help?) it was around 120 FPs at max. This is not unlike my HD 4870x2 at 1920x1200 equal settings.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I've run both the long and short test. Weird thing is my average goes up 10mb/s with the long test. Heres a screenshot of the long test.


Something I notice with RAID0 setups: the speed is more consistent. You get about half-way through the volume before speed starts taking a massive drop. Maybe this means that you are limited by the bus? (That is, your drives could go faster in the begining, but the bandwidth of SATA-I limits you.)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


And this is totally off the topic of RAID, but the other day I was thinking of using my lower slot on the CFX board just so the 4870 isn't blocking _most_ of the NB fan. Well I searched and searched in the BIOS to see if there is a way of switching the primary PCIe slot. Well there isn't, what the hell is the point of having 2 16x PCIe slots if I cant use them individually. Hell my NF4 ultra D/G can do it why cant this one? And it's got me wondering about the NF4 SLI board, can you make the lower slot the primary?


If you just put the card in the lower slot, what happens? In my two Crossfire boards, both 32x, you could put the GPU in either slot and it would work fine. On my Abit, the "primary" slot, the one that needed the master card in a crossfire setup, was the bottom slot. On my DFI, the "primary" slot is the top one.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SuppA-SnipA*



Athlon 64 4000 @ 2.7ghz


Congrats on the 2.7 GHz. However, as thlnk3r said, you need either a CPU-Z screenshot or CPU-Z validation link to get in. (We have permitted Everest CPUID shots in the past as well if necessary.) This is just so we have some sence of uniformity throughout the club.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 

Something I notice with RAID0 setups: the speed is more consistent. You get about half-way through the volume before speed starts taking a massive drop. Maybe this means that you are limited by the bus? (That is, your drives could go faster in the begining, but the bandwidth of SATA-I limits you.)

If you just put the card in the lower slot, what happens? In my two Crossfire boards, both 32x, you could put the GPU in either slot and it would work fine. On my Abit, the "primary" slot, the one that needed the master card in a crossfire setup, was the bottom slot. On my DFI, the "primary" slot is the top one.









I thought that SATA-I had a throughput of ~150mb/s? So if thats the case I'm nowhere near that speed. I'm barely at the Ultra ATA speed of 125mb/s. Well when my new board shows up I'll try try to run a RAID setup on the ULi chipset and see what happens.

As for the video card slot, IIRC when I was swapping stuff over to the CFX I tried the lower slot and it didn't work. And I had to swap the chipset fan back over to the CFX board because the thermaltake cooler is too tall for any video card to fit in the top slot. I know on my NF4 chipset boards that there is usually a BIOS setting that needs to be changed for it to recognize which slot is the primary graphics adapter.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Something I notice with RAID0 setups: the speed is more consistent. You get about half-way through the volume before speed starts taking a massive drop. Maybe this means that you are limited by the bus? (That is, your drives could go faster in the begining, but the bandwidth of SATA-I limits you.)

Blitz, it could also be that the controller isn't up to the task as well. Doesn't matter how fast your drives are, it always comes down to the controller...know what I mean?

I haven't seen you around in a while, it's been too quiet here









Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 







I thought that SATA-I had a throughput of ~150mb/s? So if thats the case I'm nowhere near that speed. I'm barely at the Ultra ATA speed of 125mb/s. Well when my new board shows up I'll try try to run a RAID setup on the ULi chipset and see what happens.

BlackOmega, I have feeling that may also be the fact that these are 7,200rpm drives. In most cases your above issue is normal. Obviously Averages Reads you'll never going to see 150MB/s. Same applies for Burst. My Raptor only did 72MB/s Avg Read and 134MB/s Burst (just checked a old screen shot). If you had your drives on the SATA II controller then you would see higher burst speeds.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I am trying Thlnk3r; this house is very noncondusive to my computing happiness. If I wish to use a computer, my options are:

My dad's E6850 C2D
My laptop's T7700 C2D
My sister's P4D 820
My other sister's P4HT 3.0

All Intel... all the time... *goes crazy.*

And yes, the drives he has are 7200 RPM. What I mean is interesting though is that RAID 0 setups seem to hold a steady clip for the first half the volume and then drop off. (I saw similar with my RAID 0 setup.) Single drives drop off immediately going through the volume. I wonder why.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz, it could also be that the controller isn't up to the task as well. Doesn't matter how fast your drives are, it always comes down to the controller...know what I mean?

I haven't seen you around in a while, it's been too quiet here









BlackOmega, I have feeling that may also be the fact that these are 7,200rpm drives. In most cases your above issue is normal. Obviously Averages Reads you'll never going to see 150MB/s. Same applies for Burst. My Raptor only did 72MB/s Avg Read and 134MB/s Burst (just checked a old screen shot). If you had your drives on the SATA II controller then you would see higher burst speeds.

Good luck

I'll run a benchmarks on the SATAII controller and see if there is any increase in speed.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I am trying Thlnk3r; this house is very noncondusive to my computing happiness. If I wish to use a computer, my options are:

My dad's E6850 C2D
My laptop's T7700 C2D
My sister's P4D 820
My other sister's P4HT 3.0

All Intel... all the time... *goes crazy.*

And yes, the drives he has are 7200 RPM. What I mean is interesting though is that RAID 0 setups seem to hold a steady clip for the first half the volume and then drop off. (I saw similar with my RAID 0 setup.) Single drives drop off immediately going through the volume. I wonder why.

AHHHHHHH







you're surrounded by INTEL! Well at least thats better than my house if I want to use anything other than my rigs I have to use my wifes Mac







. That thing is hella slow.

And I was wondering about that also when looking at the graph in HDtach. It seems up to 250GB everything is moving along nice and uniform like, then @ 252 GB it goes all over the place. Maybe it has to do with the controller like thinker said. I wonder if there are any RAID controller comparisons. Like a PCI controller and a onboard controller.


----------



## Blitz6804

I depart shortly; will be on tonight. Supposedly, my RAM and CPU cooler have been delivered. I know it is not 939, but I would love it to finally have a PC working 100%. However, since the leasing office will be closed by the time I get to Buffalo (most likely) I will not be able to load them in until Monday.

For my Birthday next month, I am planning on getting a new sound card. I am tired of needing to use the Daniel K drivers and want a product designed for Vista from the ground up. Maybe for Christmas I can get another HD 4870x2 and larger PSU. I am willing to bet it still will not play Crysis.


----------



## loony

I just remembered, i forgot to tell you guys i Overclocked my athlon. Just an easy 200mhz increase, nothing too hectic


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *loony* 
I just remembered, i forgot to tell you guys i Overclocked my athlon. Just an easy 200mhz increase, nothing too hectic









Woah, easy there killer


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Maybe it has to do with the controller like thinker said. I wonder if there are any RAID controller comparisons. Like a PCI controller and a onboard controller.









BlackOmega, the controller makes a HUGE difference on performance. Even if it has RAID it doesn't mean it does it well. Try doing a google search for your controller "versus" another onboard controller. I'm sure something will turn up.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *loony* 
I just remembered, i forgot to tell you guys i Overclocked my athlon. Just an easy 200mhz increase, nothing too hectic









Loony, include a CPU-Z validation link or screen shot and I'll add to the roster









Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I depart shortly; will be on tonight. Supposedly, my RAM and CPU cooler have been delivered. I know it is not 939, but I would love it to finally have a PC working 100%. However, since the leasing office will be closed by the time I get to Buffalo (most likely) I will not be able to load them in until Monday.

For my Birthday next month, I am planning on getting a new sound card. I am tired of needing to use the Daniel K drivers and want a product designed for Vista from the ground up. *Maybe for Christmas I can get another HD 4870x2 and larger PSU. I am willing to bet it still will not play Crysis.*









, hell it should play crysis like a champ right now. I mean its totally playable for me (the demo anyway). ~30 fps with 16xAA @ 1680x1050. Weird thing is, whether I have AA enabled or not is a difference of literally 1-2 fps.









Have you used any custom configs? You can make it look like this.









What cooler did you get?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, the controller makes a HUGE difference on performance. Even if it has RAID it doesn't mean it does it well. Try doing a google search for your controller "versus" another onboard controller. I'm sure something will turn up.

So I did a search and it seems overwhelmingly that good RAID controllers are just not worth the money unless you have a server and absolutely need the best RAID controller with ECC and all that stuff. And seeing as a good card with onboard memory and such are really expensive, this is not even an option just because of the price itself. So looks like onboard RAID it is. Also, I've found that a RAID controller will not make it any faster just more consistent. Which may or may not improve overall speed.

Maybe I'll just try all the different RAID controllers on my boards and see if there is a difference with them or not.


----------



## loony

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, the controller makes a HUGE difference on performance. Even if it has RAID it doesn't mean it does it well. Try doing a google search for your controller "versus" another onboard controller. I'm sure something will turn up.

Loony, include a CPU-Z validation link or screen shot and I'll add to the roster









Good luck

I would love to include a CPU-Z validation link but i can't because im using Ubuntu. Can i post a PerlMon screen shot instead?

EDIT: Screen shot Attached


----------



## Blitz6804

loony: PerlMon is good enough for me; we can check with Joe though. CPU-Z runs mostly fine in wine if you are interested.

BlackOmega: Noctua NH-C12P

At 1920x1200, 0xAA, High Spec, I get about 45 FPS. I have not toyed with lower resolutions yet. I do not use any custom configurations.


----------



## loony

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
loony: PerlMon is good enough for me; we can check with Joe though. CPU-Z runs mostly fine in wine if you are interested.

BlackOmega: Noctua NH-C12P

At 1920x1200, 0xAA, High Spec, I get about 45 FPS. I have not toyed with lower resolutions yet. I do not use any custom configurations.

CPU-Z doesnt work for







if only my server 08 serial didnt bumout on me (It's a legit serial, just ive used it more then once!!)


----------



## Blitz6804

It is perfectly fine to use it a few times, provided it is on the same motherboard.


----------



## loony

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
It is perfectly fine to use it a few times, provided it is on the same motherboard.

I did, but i think its because I got it through DreamSpark (Microsoft initiative for students) it wont let me.


----------



## Blitz6804

Have you tried calling in the validation? I have an Edu license of Vista and Office and it sometimes will not let you activate with the system even though I am only using it on the permissible PCs.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *loony*


I would love to include a CPU-Z validation link but i can't because im using Ubuntu. Can i post a PerlMon screen shot instead?

EDIT: Screen shot Attached


No problems with PerlMon.









Wait a sec. loony is ALREADY a Club member!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


loony: PerlMon is good enough for me; we can check with Joe though. CPU-Z runs mostly fine in wine if you are interested.

BlackOmega: Noctua NH-C12P

At 1920x1200, 0xAA, High Spec, I get about 45 FPS. I have not toyed with lower resolutions yet. I do not use any custom configurations.



That cooler will definitely be a step up from what you're using it would seem. Are you going to lap it? I have come to the conclusion that no matter how expensive a cooler is, always check for straightness and finish. Like with my Tt V1 fiasco. Although, now thinking back on it, if I would've lapped it and delidded one of my cpus' it probably would've worked very well. Oh well, I got a better cooler for 1/3 of the price.








Although, I might go with a Xiggy 1283 when I put together an AM3 rig.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


So I did a search and it seems overwhelmingly that good RAID controllers are just not worth the money unless you have a server and absolutely need the best RAID controller with ECC and all that stuff. And seeing as a good card with onboard memory and such are really expensive, this is not even an option just because of the price itself. So looks like onboard RAID it is. Also, I've found that a RAID controller will not make it any faster just more consistent. Which may or may not improve overall speed.


BlackOmega, for RAID 0 and two drives then the onboard is perfectly fine. When you starting adding more drives to the array that's when a dedicated controller should come into play. There's less CPU utilization and some performance perks (with more drives).

Joe, I think we just need to update Looney's entry? Or did I loose my mind too









Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, for RAID 0 and two drives then the onboard is perfectly fine. When you starting adding more drives to the array that's when a dedicated controller should come into play. There's less CPU utilization and some performance perks (with more drives).

Joe, I think we just need to update Looney's entry? Or did I loose my mind too









Good luck


 I dont doubt that an aftermarket RAID controller would do a better job than my onboard at keeping the drives nice and linear. And more than likely would see some improvement in performance as well. But at the price of a controller, the marginal improvement would not offset the cost. As I've come to find out a _decent_ RAID controller costs >$200, while _good_ ones cost lots more.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


But at the price of a controller, the marginal improvement would not offset the cost. As I've come to find out a _decent_ RAID controller costs >$200, while _good_ ones cost lots more.


BlackOmega, I most definitely agree with you there. For stuff we do onboard is fine. DuckieHO actually runs three Raptors in RAID 0 on a Perc 5/i controller. Same controller that is in Dell PE servers. I believe he flashed the firmware though with something that offered a bit more features.

The Perc controllers is what I have most experience with since I deal with them all the time. Great hardware in my opinion. The newest is Perc 6/i which are in the series three PowerEdge servers. If I can get a hold of one for testing, I'll post some HDTach screen shots for everyone.

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, I most definitely agree with you there. For stuff we do onboard is fine. DuckieHO actually runs three Raptors in RAID 0 on a Perc 5/i controller. Same controller that is in Dell PE servers. I believe he flashed the firmware though with something that offered a bit more features.

The Perc controllers is what I have most experience with since I deal with them all the time. Great hardware in my opinion. The newest is Perc 6/i which are in the series three PowerEdge servers. If I can get a hold of one for testing, I'll post some HDTach screen shots for everyone.

Good luck










 That'd be cool.









How is your RAID 1 for read times? Isn't RAID 1 supposed to be faster than RAID 0 in read times? I was just thinking about that, if you have 2 drives reading the same info simultaneously, I would imagine that your OS/apps/games would load faster. I know write performance would be decreased but installing large apps is always slow (relatively speaking). And honestly, how often do you do that? So thats not even a concern.







I think I might try a RAID 1 config just to see if there is an increase in read speed with my particular drives.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


How is your RAID 1 for read times? Isn't RAID 1 supposed to be faster than RAID 0 in read times? I was just thinking about that, if you have 2 drives reading the same info simultaneously, I would imagine that your OS/apps/games would load faster. I know write performance would be decreased but installing large apps is always slow (relatively speaking). And honestly, how often do you do that? So thats not even a concern.







I think I might try a RAID 1 config just to see if there is an increase in read speed with my particular drives.


BlackOmega, the performance is not so great. I mainly just have this setup going for redundancy. I'll soon be switching this rig out for a socket 754 2800+ and a single drive. Raid 1 is nice with faster spindle drives...that's for sure









Attached is the HDTach numbers for my raid 1 setup.

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, the performance is not so great. I mainly just have this setup going for redundancy. I'll soon be switching this rig out for a socket 754 2800+ and a single drive. Raid 1 is nice with faster spindle drives...that's for sure









Attached is the HDTach numbers for my raid 1 setup.

Good luck


 O wow, that's surprisingly slow.







What are the specs of the drives?

But the odd thing that I've been noticing is that most people's burst speed is ~50% increase. Yours is 52%+ increase, mine is around 19% increase.







Why do mine burst so poorly?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


O wow, that's surprisingly slow.







What are the specs of the drives?

But the odd thing that I've been noticing is that most people's burst speed is ~50% increase. Yours is 52%+ increase, mine is around 19% increase.







Why do mine burst so poorly?


BlackOmega, drives are WD800JB (ATA-100, 8MB cache and 7200rpm). Nothing special.

Your burst speeds are poor because you're running SATA II drives on a SATA 150 controller









Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, drives are WD800JB *(ATA-100*, 8MB cache and 7200rpm). Nothing special.

Your burst speeds are poor because you're running SATA II drives on a SATA 150 controller









Good luck


That explains it.


----------



## loony

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Have you tried calling in the validation? I have an Edu license of Vista and Office and it sometimes will not let you activate with the system even though I am only using it on the permissible PCs.


No I havent rung them yet. Thats a good idea though, +rep


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Wait a sec. loony is ALREADY a Club member!



Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Joe, I think we just need to update Looney's entry? Or did I loose my mind too


Yeah, he is already a club member with a stock entry. He reformatted the drive, could not reinstall Windows, and overclocked it 9% in Ubuntu. I had not had a chance to get his validation up because I have been out of town. Oh, and Thlnk3r, I think you lost your mind already.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


That cooler will definitely be a step up from what you're using it would seem. Are you going to lap it?


I had not planned to. According to the reviews I have seen, Noctua produces a CPU cooler that is substantially flat. I could likely have someone lap it for me even better, but even if the finish of the Noctua is similar to my Zalman, the gains would be de minimis. My Thermalright on the other hand... If I remember right, Thermalright claims their concavity as a feature; why?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


No problems with PerlMon.









Wait a sec. *loony* is ALREADY a Club member!











Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Oh, and Thlnk3r, I think you lost your mind already.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *loony* 
I would love to include a CPU-Z validation link but i can't because im using Ubuntu. Can i post a PerlMon screen shot instead?

EDIT: Screen shot Attached

Loony, I updated the roster to reflect your new OC









Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I had not planned to. According to the reviews I have seen, Noctua produces a CPU cooler that is substantially flat. I could likely have someone lap it for me even better, but even if the finish of the Noctua is similar to my Zalman, the gains would be de minimis. My Thermalright on the other hand... If I remember right, Thermalright claims their concavity as a feature; why?


 Because they're idiots that's why. At least if they were convex they'd have better contact. 
I've heard good things about Noctua products lately. A friend of mine bought one, not sure which model exactly (92 something?), he says it keeps his Q6600 nice and cool. Loads at something like <50*C @ stock. He's not into overclocking but he's got all the right equipment to do so, go figure.


----------



## rammunition

i just bought a athlon 4000 for a old 939 rig i have, got the CPU for Â£34+p&p.

also, what is the best 2GB DDR set thats cheap but good???


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rammunition* 
i just bought a athlon 4000 for a old 939 rig i have, got the CPU for Â£34+p&p.

also, what is the best 2GB DDR set thats cheap but good???

Rammunition, if you can include a CPU-Z validation link of your OC, I'll go ahead and add you the roster.

If you can get your hands on a nice DDR500 set then that would allow for some nice OC'ing room. I currently run this set. I personally didn't think it was that great for overclocking. I believe the IC's are Hynix D43's. I was only able to push a 44Mhz overclock out of them. For day to day stuff the G.Skill memory is fine. I'm sure others will pop in soon and provide some other suggestions.

Good luck


----------



## rammunition

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Rammunition, if you can include a CPU-Z validation link of your OC, I'll go ahead and add you the roster.

If you can get your hands on a nice DDR500 set then that would allow for some nice OC'ing room. I currently run this set. I personally didn't think it was that great for overclocking. I believe the IC's are Hynix D43's. I was only able to push a 44Mhz overclock out of them. For day to day stuff the G.Skill memory is fine. I'm sure others will pop in soon and provide some other suggestions.

Good luck











thanks, when the CPU arrives, will try it in the 939 rig and post a cpu-z link


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rammunition*


i just bought a athlon 4000 for a old 939 rig i have, got the CPU for Â£34+p&p.

also, what is the best 2GB DDR set thats cheap but good???


Everyone I know has had great luck with these DDR1 OCZ Platinum sticks. Cas 2 with 2-3-2-5-1T timings. They are DDR 400.

Though, if you can find, I would really recommend getting the Mushkin Redline XP4000 DDR500 Cas 2 w/ 2-3-2-5-1T timings @ 2.6volts 

Though, you'll have to search Ebay, and the such. I don't think you can find them new anywhere for a decent price.


----------



## simfreak47

Guys, I won't have my 939 rig too much longer, I'm moving on to AM2/AM2+.

Good luck friends









I'll still hang around, of course


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *simfreak47*


Guys, I won't have my 939 rig too much longer, I'm moving on to AM2/AM2+.

Good luck friends









I'll still hang around, of course


Are you selling your rig?

Because if I get money soon, I could be interested in that board and maybe the CPU.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *simfreak47*


Guys, I won't have my 939 rig too much longer, I'm moving on to AM2/AM2+.

Good luck friends









I'll still hang around, of course


Simfreak, I hope the new build works out for you. If you do decide to sell anything please post it up in the For Sale/Wanted section.

Good luck


----------



## loony

Thanks for updating my OC


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Simfreak, I hope the new build works out for you. If you do decide to sell anything please post it up in the For Sale/Wanted section.

Good luck









Looks like he may have to start building that rep to 35 if he wants to sell on OCN in the forsale/wanted section.


----------



## Blitz6804

Not necessarily N2Gaming. He has to look around in the Wanted section for people advertising "Wanted: 939 Parts" or similar. You can use the For Sale section with less than 35 Reps, you just cannot create a new thread.


----------



## thlnk3r

Either way, it would be a good way for him to provide support for users that are having issues


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Either way, it would be a good way for him to provide support for users that are having issues


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Are you selling your rig?

Because if I get money soon, I could be interested in that board and maybe the CPU.

I think my CPU is already sold at another forum, but if it goes through, I'll let you know.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Simfreak, I hope the new build works out for you. If you do decide to sell anything please post it up in the For Sale/Wanted section.

Good luck









'Aye, I don't have 35 rep yet









Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Looks like he may have to start building that rep to 35 if he wants to sell on OCN in the forsale/wanted section.

Yeah,

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Not necessarily N2Gaming. He has to look around in the Wanted section for people advertising "Wanted: 939 Parts" or similar. You can use the For Sale section with less than 35 Reps, you just cannot create a new thread.

I love it when people are always looking for stuff I have. lol.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Either way, it would be a good way for him to provide support for users that are having issues









Was that @ me?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *simfreak47* 
I think my CPU is already sold at another forum, but if it goes through, I'll let you know.
'Aye, I don't have 35 rep yet








Yeah,
I love it when people are always looking for stuff I have. lol.
Was that @ me?









Good Follow up.


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Good Follow up.










Hehe, thanks


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *simfreak47*


Guys, I won't have my 939 rig too much longer, I'm moving on to AM2/AM2+.

Good luck friends









I'll still hang around, of course


 Sim, just curious, why AM2/+? Its not really that much more money to go with AM3? Sent you a PM too BTW.


----------



## N2Gaming

Well Despite Hueristics concerns, Sorry bro but I had to do it. I just clicked on the buy now button for a Foxconn Destroyer, a tube of MX-2 & a P3 Kill A Watt Electricity Load Meter & monitor. Now I'm trying to find the cheapest G9 mouse I can get my hands on.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Well Despite Hueristics concerns, Sorry bro but I had to do it. I just clicked on the buy now button for a Foxconn Destroyer, a tube of MX-2 & a P3 Kill A Watt Electricity Load Meter & monitor. Now I'm trying to find the cheapest G9 mouse I can get my hands on.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Well Despite Hueristics concerns, Sorry bro but I had to do it. I just clicked on the buy now button for a Foxconn Destroyer, a tube of MX-2 & a P3 Kill A Watt Electricity Load Meter & monitor. Now I'm trying to find the cheapest G9 mouse I can get my hands on.


 Looks like a nice board.







3x16 SLi is nice. Good layout too. Hope it works out well for you.









Now I'm gonna check out my "new" board that came in the mail today.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*












Well Hopefully I get a good board from the egg they do not allow returns only exchange w/in 30 days for this mobo & it is suppose to come w/a clear plastic mobo tray w/threaded stand offs. However when I look on the Eggs sight it does not show the mobo tray. I also like that it comes w/a extra 120mm Clear fan.







This is suppose to be a real good 780a Nvidia chipset board. I will let you all know by weeks end.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Looks like a nice board.







3x16 SLi is nice. Good layout too. Hope it works out well for you.









Now I'm gonna check out my "new" board that came in the mail today.










Yeah I still have to find a cheap 939 chip to test w/the Venus, of course I will test the chip first in a know good board before testing it in the Venus. At least this way I will know if the chip is good before I possibly kill it in the Venus.

Good Luck w/the new DFI Omega.


----------



## BlackOmega

You shouldve hit burrbit up. He was selling a 3500+ for $10 or 15.

Im off to lap the NB fan


----------



## Blitz6804

Lapping a northbridge fan? That is hard core!


----------



## Blitz6804

Hey, check it out. OCN JUST changed the [email protected] postbit. Now instead of the red gear, it has the little [email protected] molecule.


----------



## tubesaddict

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Hey, check it out. OCN JUST changed the [email protected] postbit. Now instead of the red gear, it has the little [email protected] molecule.


Yep!
http://www.overclock.net/overclock-n...c-updated.html


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Lapping a northbridge fan? That is hard core!


 It wasn't as smooth as I wanted







Went all the way to 2000grit then polished it out with some left over ICD7. Man that stuff works great.







NB load temp 33*C.









Anyway, I got the new board, but I'm not sure if it indeed is a NF4 SLI or not (I'm 99.9% sure it's not). It looks _just_ like my NF4 ultra D/G, with the exception of 1 capacitor placement. 
When the board showed up the first thing I did was pop the NB fan off to see if the SLI pins were joined. It doesnt appear that they are. It also looks as though I am the first person to remove tne NB fan on this board (wow was that thing on there). It still has the epoxy over the pins where the SLI jumper thing is on the NB. But the strange thing is it came with an SLI bridge.







Maybe the coating over the pins is conductive? Well I suppose later on I'll throw in my other GSO and see if it truely is an SLI board.


----------



## Blitz6804

I believe the dual-PCIe slot boards did ship with SLI bridges until nVidia complained to DFI. DFI stopped shipping bridges and did a better job of gimping the chipset.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *simfreak47*


Was that @ me?


Simfreak47, was that was directed towards you. The best way to build rep is start troubleshooting/helping other users with their problems









Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I just clicked on the buy now button for a Foxconn Destroyer, a tube of MX-2 & a P3 Kill A Watt Electricity Load Meter & monitor


N2Gaming, I hope you enjoy the P3 Kill-a-Watt meter. I love mine.

Good luck


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I believe the dual-PCIe slot boards did ship with SLI bridges until nVidia complained to DFI. DFI stopped shipping bridges and did a better job of gimping the chipset.


Blitz, which boards were non-sli and only dual-pcie? I remember you guys talking about one DFI board that was capable of SLI.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

DFI LanParty UT nF4 Ultra-D for one. One mod guide is here.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Simfreak47, was that was directed towards you. The best way to build rep is start troubleshooting/helping other users with their problems









N2Gaming, I hope you enjoy the P3 Kill-a-Watt meter. I love mine.

Good luck


Thanks, I plan on it. I have been having all kinds of arguments w/the ladie in my house about what uses more electricity and where all our money is going. It's just to bad I can't hook it up to the HVAC unit in the house she would flip or make that I would flip out.







I had a $250.00 PG&E bill 2 summers ago because the HVAC had a freon leak and the pump stayed on all day and night while I was on the road transporting cars. That's because the lady of the house was/is not the kind of person to notice the ac not cooling the house or turning off.:swearing: She is the same way w/vacuum cleaners. When the filter gets full the engine whines more and she never picks up on that.:swearing: This is by all means not a bash woman rant but mearly a vent for the one I live with.


----------



## thlnk3r

I wonder if a lot of those Lanparty boards were the same just with things disabled/gimped. Sounds very familiar with the Denmark vs Toledo cores









Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thanks, I plan on it. I have been having all kinds of arguments w/the ladie in my house about what uses more electricity and where all our money is going.


N2Gaming, you'd be surprised on how much power is used when devices/appliances are turned "off". I started unplugged items around my house that I hardly use.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


DFI LanParty UT nF4 Ultra-D for one. One mod guide is here.


That was a good read. I wish I knew about that when I purchased my NIB NF4 SLI DR.







I could have save almost $100.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

A comment about the DFI LANParty UT nF4 Ultras and SLI-modding: This technique of getting SLI on the cheap was only really applicable to the very early revisions of the nF4 Ultras.

Unsurprisingly, nVidia was terribly unhappy with this mod (since it would obviously eat into profits from "legit" SLI chipsets/motherboards), so they demanded that DFI re-engineer their nF4 Ultras to make the SLI mod subsequently impossible. DFI complied, of course. Moreover, nVidia also re-engineered their driver packages to make future SLI-mods all but impossible to implement on boards with the nF4 Ultra chipsets.

(Of course, as far as I know only DFI ever manufactured an nF4 Ultra motherboard with dual PCI-E graphics slots.







This lends some credence to thlnk3r's theory that the nF4 Ultra and the SLI-capable chipsets might all be based on one "super-chipset," but with certain options deleted/deactivated for use on lower-tier products.)


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I believe the dual-PCIe slot boards did ship with SLI bridges until nVidia complained to DFI. DFI stopped shipping bridges and did a better job of gimping the chipset.

Good to know. I was wondering why it had one if it indeed is _not_ an SLI board. After looking at that article some, I just had a







moment. I forgot to pay attention to what the NB label was. I believe it just said it was a NF4Ultra.
I don't have time right now to read the whole thing, but did it say that even if you enable it, does it go x8/x8 or does it stay x16/x2?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz, which boards were non-sli and only dual-pcie? I remember you guys talking about one DFI board that was capable of SLI.

Good luck

Looking at the manual it appears that DFI made 3 boards with the NF4 ultra chipset, that I can find in the manual so far. There was one that was not the Ultra or SLI chipset.
Some of the boards that are capable of SLI but are not equipped are the Ultra-D, Ultra-DR, Ultra DxG. The DxG stands for dual express graphics. You were able to run 4 monitors at once supposedly. The DxG is the one I got off of fleabay that hit that astounding 400MHz reference clock.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
That was a good read. I wish I knew about that when I purchased my NIB NF4 SLI DR.







I could have save almost $100.

I thought you had an expert board? The experts are pretty different than the Ultra-DR/SLI-DR. They had a lot more features not to mention the Sil3114 controller and an extra 4 SATA ports, a debug LED and such.

EDIT:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
A comment about the DFI LANParty UT nF4 Ultras and SLI-modding: This technique of getting SLI on the cheap was only really applicable to the very early revisions of the nF4 Ultras.

Unsurprisingly, nVidia was terribly unhappy with this mod (since it would obviously eat into profits from "legit" SLI chipsets/motherboards), so they demanded that DFI re-engineer their nF4 Ultras to make the SLI mod subsequently impossible. DFI complied, of course. Moreover, nVidia also re-engineered their driver packages to make future SLI-mods all but impossible to implement on boards with the nF4 Ultra chipsets.

(Of course, as far as I know only DFI ever manufactured an nF4 Ultra motherboard with dual PCI-E graphics slots.







This lends some credence to thlnk3r's theory that the nF4 Ultra and the SLI-capable chipsets might all be based on one "super-chipset," but with certain options deleted/deactivated for use on lower-tier products.)

I think they might've given up on the driver aspect of it. IIRC, even with my A8N32, they all used the same 15.23 nforce driver.
And as far as I know, all DFI did was put epoxy over the pins that you join together. Which I actually find kind of funny because that just makes it easier to find which ones you need to join. I've found a couple of articles that show the writer removing the epoxy with a scalpel, exacto or some other fine sharp instrument.

I think that thinker is right on the money. Its cheaper overall to make 1 chip and just cut certain connecting bridges to deactivate features. Rather than make several dies. It's the same way with automotive stuff. I spoke with an engineer from Ford and asked him why Ford doesn't change a certain little part, like the angle of a bend in a metal line. He told me that to even change the bend one degree would cost millions of dollars. That's why you'll see the same engine in a lot of different cars. Or other manufacturers engines in our domestics like the Mercury Villager using a Nissan 3.0 motor.


----------



## SuppA-SnipA

dont know what happened before, i thought i linked the correct image, but heres the cpuz


----------



## Blitz6804

SuppA-SnipA: Welcome aboard! I will add you and Loony to the off-site. Eventually. Sorry about the delay Loony, been very busy.

txtmstrjoe: Later revisions of the Ultra-D had epoxy put over the junction that would need to be removed before modding. Later revisions of the nF4 Ultra chipset had internal components removed to prevent this mod from working.

BlackOmega: If you use a really old driver version (GeForce 70.xx or earlier) you can enable SLI natively on the Ultra-D at 16x/2x. Newer drivers will not SLI enable. Doing the pencil mod, the computer thinks you have an nForce4-SLI board and will run at 8x/8x regardless of the driver version.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


SuppA-SnipA: Welcome aboard! I will add you and Loony to the off-site. Eventually. Sorry about the delay Loony, been very busy.

txtmstrjoe: Later revisions of the Ultra-D had epoxy put over the junction that would need to be removed before modding. Later revisions of the nF4 Ultra chipset had internal components removed to prevent this mod from working.

BlackOmega: If you use a really old driver version (GeForce 70.xx or earlier) you can enable SLI natively on the Ultra-D at 16x/2x. Newer drivers will not SLI enable. Doing the pencil mod, the computer thinks you have an nForce4-SLI board and will run at 8x/8x regardless of the driver version.



NOW here's the million dollar question: What was the Revion code on the DFI mobo & date of the newer revisions for the NF4 Ultra chipset? This is a majical way to make sure you get a cheaper sli capable mobo. Heck I got a SLI DR for $18.00 because the guy could not get the system working correctly.







So Needless to say I have a backup mobo for my daly driver system should it get fubard some how.


----------



## Blitz6804

I believe all Ultra-Ds, easily mod-able, moderately mod-able, and not mod-able, are all listed as revision 1.0. Do not quote me on that though.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


The DxG is the one I got off of fleabay that hit that astounding 400MHz reference clock.

I thought you had an expert board? The experts are pretty different than the Ultra-DR/SLI-DR. They had a lot more features not to mention the Sil3114 controller and an extra 4 SATA ports, a debug LED and such.


As far as I know the only difference from the expert mobo and the SLI-DR is the absence os the sli jumpers on the mobo and the enhanced overclocking abilities due to hardware/componant changes for smoother power delivery. I still have all 8 SATA ports on my SLI-DR the 4 debug lights and I got extra's that most other mobo's did not. like the Black Lanparty cary case and the FrontX...









Edit: I do have 3 expert mobo's that are POS garbage & on of which is a Venus. Well I can't say that entirely about the expert mobo's that I have. It's just that I have not been able to test all of them yet. One of them works but no sound, PCI and some of the usb ports are dead on the mobo. That is what I can tell you so far from all the testing that I have done w/it. NO that testing was not the Venus before you ask. I still have not touched the Venus. I don't know if that means I have a bad componant somewheres on the mobo or a bad southbridge.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


As far as I know the only difference from the expert mobo and the SLI-DR is the absence os the sli jumpers on the mobo and the enhanced overclocking abilities due to hardware/componant changes for smoother power delivery. I still have all 8 SATA ports on my SLI-DR the 4 debug lights and I got extra's that most other mobo's did not. like the Black Lanparty cary case and the FrontX...










You neglected to mention one big difference between the SLI-DR and the SLI-DR Expert: They have completely different PCB layouts.









The SLI-DR's PCB is laid out exactly like the Ultra, while the SLI-DR Expert shares its layout with the Venus board (as well as the CFX3200). The key differences are in the location of the DIMM slots and the CPU socket. In the Ultra and the SLI-DR, the CPU socket is located almost dead-center on the board, while the DIMM slots are arrayed horizontally above them (when looking at the board from plan view, with the PCI slots on the bottom). The Expert/Venus/CFX boards have the CPU socket sitting in the upper third area of the PCB, with the DIMM slots sandwiched between the CPU socket and the I/O ports in the rear of the board (the reverse of the typical orientation).


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


You neglected to mention one big difference between the SLI-DR and the SLI-DR Expert: They have completely different PCB layouts.









The SLI-DR's PCB is laid out exactly like the Ultra, while the SLI-DR Expert shares its layout with the Venus board (as well as the CFX3200). The key differences are in the location of the DIMM slots and the CPU socket. In the Ultra and the SLI-DR, the CPU socket is located almost dead-center on the board, while the DIMM slots are arrayed horizontally above them (when looking at the board from plan view, with the PCI slots on the bottom). The Expert/Venus/CFX boards have the CPU socket sitting in the upper third area of the PCB, with the DIMM slots sandwiched between the CPU socket and the I/O ports in the rear of the board (the reverse of the typical orientation).


Oh yeah how could I forget that...







Jk Uhh I guess that was for better dissapation of heat. After all heat rises and if the ram is above the cpu then you would essentiall have a hotter system w/the ram above the cpu vs the ram off to the side of the cpu.







Thanks for reminding me.


----------



## Blitz6804

I am signing out now to install my new cooler. If I am not back within an hour or two, something went horribly wrong.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I am signing out now to install my new cooler. If I am not back within an hour or two, something went horribly wrong.


Good Luck, Break a legg I mean a computer .







jk


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I am signing out now to install my new cooler. If I am not back within an hour or two, something went horribly wrong.


 hour or 2







But you seem like the very meticulous type, so I wont hold that against you.









Well Im going to pull apart my new board (again) and pop the NB fan off (again) and see which chipset it really is. Now if I'm not back in an hour or 2 something wen't horribly wrong.







Or I jsut got really frustrated and smashed the board to bits.

Good Luck Blitz.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


You neglected to mention one big difference between the SLI-DR and the SLI-DR Expert: They have completely different PCB layouts.










Joe, that was one thing I disliked about my SLI-DR. I couldn't stand the socket being in the middle. I had so many compatibility issues with my coolers touching the video card. If I wanted to move the video card down to the next PCIe slot then that meant the speed defaulting to 2x which was a noticeable impact in games. Bleh









Blitz, good luck!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Joe, that was one thing I disliked about my SLI-DR. I couldn't stand the socket being in the middle. I had so many compatibility issues with my coolers touching the video card. If I wanted to move the video card down to the next PCIe slot then that meant the speed defaulting to 2x which was a noticeable impact in games. Bleh









Blitz, good luck!


That's why I like the Zalman 9700 so much. It's not the best or cheapest but I find it to be pretty much compatible w/any set up and it does a pretty nice job keeping my cpu's pretty cool...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

You know, to this day I still don't know why DFI decided to redesign the board layout and put the CPU socket almost dead center on the PCB. I can offer two speculative ideas why, though: One is that, with the CPU at almost dead center, the heaviest part of the system assembly (i.e., the CPU + cooler) is in the middle, which theoretically most evenly distributes the weight stress exerted on the PCB. The other possible benefit is to shorten the traces from the CPU to the rest of the board.

Other than that, I don't know why DFI made such a curious design decision; it's almost completely unique to the S939 LANParty UT-series motherboards.


----------



## thlnk3r

Joe, another thought that crosses my mind is possibly for better cooling? Perhaps with the processor/cooler in the middle it was subject to receive more airflow or maybe it was a design flaw that couldn't be reverted back due to costs


----------



## N2Gaming

I would think that cooling has the most to do w/the design. I mean if the SLI-DR was Pre UT Expert DR then my guess would be for better cooling of the ram becuase heated air flows better up wards. "Does it not?" Heck I would have bought the Expert if it was available when I got my SLI-DR

Edit: I was going to take a picture of the original literature that come w/my mobo when purchased new. At the time the SLI-DR was the board to have.Then the SLI-D Followed by Ultra D...

Im gonna guess that by the time the Expert mobo hit the market the Ultra D mobos had been fixed to prevent the sli mod.


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, I am back... and my feelings of this cooler are VERY mixed. I will write up more later.


----------



## Blitz6804

As promised, I have wrote up my thoughts on the cooler.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
You know, to this day I still don't know why DFI decided to redesign the board layout and put the CPU socket almost dead center on the PCB. I can offer two speculative ideas why, though: One is that, with the CPU at almost dead center, the heaviest part of the system assembly (i.e., the CPU + cooler) is in the middle, which theoretically most evenly distributes the weight stress exerted on the PCB. The other possible benefit is to shorten the traces from the CPU to the rest of the board.

Other than that, I don't know why DFI made such a curious design decision; it's almost completely unique to the S939 LANParty UT-series motherboards.










Joe, it's probably a combination of both. Factor in cost savings to that equation and I think you've got a winner.









BLitz, sorry to hear that your Noctua didn't live up to the hype









Well, I took the NB cooler off again and it indeed is a NF4 Ultra chipset. But I figured while I was at it I'll put in both video cards. Well, because these 768 MB versions have this ridiculous heatsink on the top of them, that proved to be impossible. So I pulled the top heatsink off of 1 of the cards. Lo and behold I ran out of ICD7







:swearing:

And now I've got a dilema. Is this heatsink really doing anything? The heatsink sits above the PCB about 4mm. The TIM (or whatever it is) is also 4mm thick, and from as far as I can tell it's all rubber. How is sthis supposed to cool anything? The TIM is so thick I can't see any sort of heat transfer happening there. What do you guys think? I'll probably wind up making another post in the GPU section, but I'd like your guys opinion first.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
As promised, I have wrote up my thoughts on the cooler.

Blitz, sorry to hear the bad news. Have you tried other fans to see if there is any difference? Perhaps one that pushes more air? I understand you're shooting for quietness but it wouldn't hurt for testing.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
And now I've got a dilema. Is this heatsink really doing anything? The heatsink sits above the PCB about 4mm. The TIM (or whatever it is) is also 4mm thick, and from as far as I can tell it's all rubber. How is sthis supposed to cool anything? The TIM is so thick I can't see any sort of heat transfer happening there. What do you guys think? I'll probably wind up making another post in the GPU section, but I'd like your guys opinion first.









BlackOmega, are you referring to the rubber mats that cover the BGA memory? I think those are a substitute for the thermal compound. I would think the heatsink for the GPU would be the most important. Can you include a picture so we better understand your situation? Thanks

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Here's a link to it.

And now lets say I cant get away with leaving it off of one of the cards, do you think I could use both of them on my CFX to fold? Since theyre not going ot be X-fired, I was just curious to see if it would work with both cards.

EDIT: Its the heatsink on the top of the card. Not that actual fan/cooler on the bottom side of it.


----------



## rammunition

zomg!!!!!, my athlon 4000 arrived today, i would take pics but its 9:40 pm and my camera doesn't take good pics with my energy saving lighting, lol.

i need some thermal paste and i'll post a cpu-z screeny in the coming days


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz, sorry to hear the bad news. Have you tried other fans to see if there is any difference? Perhaps one that pushes more air? I understand you're shooting for quietness but it wouldn't hurt for testing.

I have not. Unlike the SI-128, it is a beast to change the fan on the cooler. I will maybe try putting on the putrid brown NH-P12 fan that came with it to see if that makes any difference.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Here's a link to it.

And now lets say I cant get away with leaving it off of one of the cards, do you think I could use both of them on my CFX to fold? Since theyre not going ot be X-fired, I was just curious to see if it would work with both cards.

EDIT: Its the heatsink on the top of the card. Not that actual fan/cooler on the bottom side of it.

BlackOmega, that is strange. This is the first time I've seen such a cooler on the other side of the video card. What is underneath the heatsink? If the heatsink is making contact with components then I would assume it's advisable to keep it on.

Let us know

Good luck


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I have not. Unlike the SI-128, it is a beast to change the fan on the cooler. I will maybe try putting on the putrid brown NH-P12 fan that came with it to see if that makes any difference.

Blitz, aren't the fans attached via "clips"? It literally takes half a minute to switch out a fan on my SI-128. Maybe you have a different setup then me









Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I would presume that since the cards with more RAM have the coolers and the others do not, I would presume the heatsink on the back side is cooling the additional RAM.

Regards the clips: the SI-128 clips are a snap to put on. The NH-C12P clips are not. I swear the clips are too small for their application. Further, unlike the SI-128, if you do not have them attached to a fan, they fall off.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, that is strange. This is the first time I've seen such a cooler on the other side of the video card. What is underneath the heatsink? If the heatsink is making contact with components then I would assume it's advisable to keep it on.

Let us know

Good luck

Imaginary REP to you sir.









I've decided that I'm going to put it back on (after I get some TIM) and swap everything over to my CFX board as they both will fit without issue. And it turns out I can fold on both of them even on a crossfire board. So it looks like I'll have quite the little project over the weekend.

EDIT: There is 6 mem chips under it. There is also a large 24mmx24mm TIM square in the middle that contacts the PCB.


----------



## Blitz6804

Why would you not be able to fold on both...? To fold on more than one GPU, you need to have SLI or Crossfire turned off, the appropriate launch tags, and if in Vista, one monitor or dummy plug per card.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
EDIT: There is 6 mem chips under it. There is also a large 24mmx24mm TIM square in the middle that contacts the PCB.

BlackOmega, oh yeah definitely keep that heatsink on. If you left it off then you risk damaging the card.

Good call


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Why would you not be able to fold on both...? To fold on more than one GPU, you need to have SLI or Crossfire turned off, the appropriate launch tags, and if in Vista, one monitor or dummy plug per card.

Hell I dont know







I was thinking that maybe the board would be like "DIE MOTHER EFFER!!!







To the video cards. lol


----------



## Blitz6804

There may or may not be driver conflicts. With AMD, you have the same chipset driver and graphics driver; CCC does both. With nVidia, you have the nForce driver for the chipset and the GeForce driver for the graphics. If you mix and match, they may or may not get along. I recall many unfond memories with nVidia chipsets and ATi cards.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Regards the clips: the SI-128 clips are a snap to put on. The NH-C12P clips are not. I swear the clips are too small for their application. Further, unlike the SI-128, if you do not have them attached to a fan, they fall off.

I can vouch for this. Noctua's fan clips are far more robust than Thermalright's little weenie ones. You need to use more finger muscle power to properly attach the fans on the Noctua with its clips.

I actually prefer this, to be honest. If nothing else, it give me peace of mind that the clips will hold their shape and not get progressively deformed better than clips made of thinner-gauge wire.

(You just have to muscle it more, Blitz!














)


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz, have you ever heard Arnold say "milk is for babies"?


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, the issue is that there is VERY little room to work with. Between the cooler and the HD 4870x2 is maybe an inch. Between the cooler and the power supply a fuzz less, further complicated by the fact that the gap is under the power supply support rail, limiting mobility greatly on that side. It would not be so bad if the clips locked into the cooler. You know how with the SI-128 you put the open end into the cooler making it pivotally attached? Well, no such luck with the NH-C12P. Here, there are grooves on the side of the cooler. You put the solid part into the groove, and if there is no fan clipped down with the open end, the support falls right out of the groove.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Well, the issue is that there is VERY little room to work with. Between the cooler and the HD 4870x2 is maybe an inch. Between the cooler and the power supply a fuzz less, further complicated by the fact that the gap is under the power supply support rail, limiting mobility greatly on that side. It would not be so bad if the clips locked into the cooler. You know how with the SI-128 you put the open end into the cooler making it pivotally attached? Well, no such luck with the NH-C12P. Here, there are grooves on the side of the cooler. You put the solid part into the groove, and if there is no fan clipped down with the open end, the support falls right out of the groove.


Let me guess: You tried mounting the heatsink and fan clips while the motherboard was in the case, didn't you?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Let me guess: You tried mounting the heatsink and fan clips while the motherboard was in the case, didn't you?










Joe, I did that a few times and I regretted it. Pain in the butt. Very little room to work with









Quote:



Originally Posted by *SuppA-SnipA*



dont know what happened before, i thought i linked the correct image, but heres the cpuz










Suppa-Snipa, I've added you the roster. Welcome to the club.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Joe, I did that a few times and I regretted it. Pain in the butt. Very little room to work with









Suppa-Snipa, I've added you the roster. Welcome to the club.

Good luck


Well a couple of things to consider. is it easier to remove the video card and power supply to give you more room to work with or is it just easier to remove the whole mobo???


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Well a couple of things to consider. is it easier to remove the video card and power supply to give you more room to work with or is it just easier to remove the whole mobo???










It is easier to just take out a few components.

But I generally prefer to remove everything from the box when I add new hardware.

90% of the time though, its to adjust my Cable Mang.

Which I find can easily be messed up by changing out hardware.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I do what I need to do. Most of the time, though, when mounting a new heatsink, I always take the board out. It makes checking for fit, tightness, and other considerations much easier. Plus, despite usually having big cases to work in, my hands need the room to work.

(It's far easier to work a screwdriver than it is to try to mount something through tight spaces, in my opinion.)


----------



## SuppA-SnipA

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Suppa-Snipa, I've added you the roster. Welcome to the club.

Good luck

Thank you








the link on the first page is actually not the correct link, could ya replace it with this one http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/7...1orthoskm3.jpg ?


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I do what I need to do. Most of the time, though, when mounting a new heatsink, I always take the board out. It makes checking for fit, tightness, and other considerations much easier. Plus, despite usually having big cases to work in, my hands need the room to work.

(It's far easier to work a screwdriver than it is to try to mount something through tight spaces, in my opinion.)

Agreed 100% here! I also take my motherboard out, makes the whole process much easier.


----------



## N2Gaming

That is ideal providing you have a work table or something safe to work on. The last thing you want is to damage the mobo becuase of working on it outside of the case.I know I know







but I just had to point it out.


----------



## Blitz6804

With my SI-128, I HAD to remove the mobo to bolt it down given the requisite for an offset screwdriver. My NH-C12P, like the Zalman CNPS9500LED I miss, can both be done without removing the mobo via a boring, regular, old screwdriver. The problem is getting the fan onto the cooler once installed. If the clips on the NH-C12P were like those on the SI-128, it would be child's play. But they are not. So it is not.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
That is ideal providing you have a work table or something safe to work on. The last thing you want is to damage the mobo becuase of working on it outside of the case.I know I know







but I just had to point it out.

I typically work on my ladies on my bed.









(Oh wait. That sounded a little risque.







I meant I work on my machines on my bed.)

I live in a small apartment, so this is the only room I have, to be honest. Sometimes, if there's nothing on it, I'll go downstairs and work on the dinner table. But I've only done that in this apartment maybe twice at most.


----------



## simfreak47

When I was upgrading from the stock cooler, I definitely took my mobo out when I put the Arctic Freezer 64 in.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
With my SI-128, I HAD to remove the mobo to bolt it down given the requisite for an offset screwdriver. My NH-C12P, like the Zalman CNPS9500LED I miss, can both be done without removing the mobo via a boring, regular, old screwdriver. *The problem is getting the fan onto the cooler once installed. If the clips on the NH-C12P were like those on the SI-128, it would be child's play. But they are not. So it is not.*

This is precisely why I suggested taking the board out of the case. It's far easier to work when you have tons of space around you.

Besides, it's not as if you'll be disassembling a cable management masterpiece (knowing you the way I do).


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SuppA-SnipA* 
Thank you








the link on the first page is actually not the correct link, could ya replace it with this one http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/7...1orthoskm3.jpg ?

SuppA-SnipA, sorry about that. I made the appropriate changes to the roster to reflect your OC









Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
With my SI-128, I HAD to remove the mobo to bolt it down given the requisite for an offset screwdriver.

Blitz, that is interesting. My SI-128 was a clip on cooler. I didn't know they had a bolt-on kit.

Good luck


----------



## SuppA-SnipA

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
SuppA-SnipA, sorry about that. I made the appropriate changes to the roster to reflect your OC








Good luck

its cool, glad to be on the list







cya 'round


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I typically work on my ladies on my bed.









(Oh wait. That sounded a little risque.







I meant I work on my machines on my bed.)

I live in a small apartment, so this is the only room I have, to be honest. Sometimes, if there's nothing on it, I'll go downstairs and work on the dinner table. But I've only done that in this apartment maybe twice at most.

I would have never thought about working on her on the bed if you had not broght it up but after all she does deserve to be pampered and spread/laid out on a nice big surface.


----------



## pioneerisloud

God it feels good to be back....what'd I miss?


----------



## N2Gaming

Pio you missed everything.







where you been man?


----------



## Blitz6804

Joe: with the SI-128 on the board, it was VERY hard to bolt mobo down. It required removing the PSU to do, and even then, quite a bit aerobics.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Pio you missed everything.







where you been man?

Been basically homeless since Froggy split up with me. I won't go into it here for the sake of keeping on topic







.

I've still got 2 Socket 939 rigs







. My main rig (gonna double check my sig rig specs now), and my HTPC01 build....which I have to check that one too.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Been basically homeless since Froggy split up with me. I won't go into it here for the sake of keeping on topic







.

I've still got 2 Socket 939 rigs







. My main rig (gonna double check my sig rig specs now), and my HTPC01 build....which I have to check that one too.

Well I'm glad to see you and your S939's again. Hope you and your S939's did not freeze to much out there in the snow.







Washington state get's pretty cold in the winter.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Yo pio! Good to see you in these parts again!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
God it feels good to be back....what'd I miss?


PIO!!!!








Where the hell ya been? I was wondering what the hell happend to ya!
Hows life treating you these days? Good to see you back!


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I believe the dual-PCIe slot boards did ship with SLI bridges until nVidia complained to DFI. DFI stopped shipping bridges and did a better job of gimping the chipset.

I thought the only difference was some extra epoxy that's near-impossible to remove without damaging the traces. I read that in one of the Ultra-to-SLI mod guides.

Pio, good to see you back! I've been in Washington these last few days. Every time I'm up here the weather gets really nice for some reason







. This is the first time in a long while I've come while there's the possibility of snow.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


I thought the only difference was some extra epoxy that's near-impossible to remove without damaging the traces. I read that in one of the Ultra-to-SLI mod guides.

Pio, good to see you back! I've been in Washington these last few days. Every time I'm up here the weather gets really nice for some reason







. This is the first time in a long while I've come while there's the possibility of snow.


 Wow thats a long ways for you. Exactly how miles is that?









When I had the NB fan off today I glanced at the epoxy today. I think the trick to it is removing just enough epoxy to connect the 2 pins. Or even quite possibly, softening the epoxy with some sort of solvent that wont damage the PCB or potentially using some heat like a soldering iron. Then you'll something _very_ sharp, a magnifying glass, a very steady hand and probably most importantly, patience.

I remember reading somewhere else a long time ago about enabling both the SLI and SATA 3.0 on the Lanparty NF4-D.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


PIO!!!!








Where the hell ya been? I was wondering what the hell happend to ya! 
Hows life treating you these days? Good to see you back!


I've been around town, wherever I parked my car







.

I'm actually doing a LOT better now. I've got two lawyers working on two different things for me (for the better), and there's a new girl in my life that I'm hoping works out







.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I've been around town, wherever I parked my car







.

I'm actually doing a LOT better now. I've got two lawyers working on two different things for me (for the better), and there's a new girl in my life that I'm hoping works out







.


 Nice, glad to hear everything is going well. Werent you working on some sort of celica or something?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Nice, glad to hear everything is going well. Werent you working on some sort of celica or something?


Yeah, and I still am. The project is just being post poned slightly because of what's been going on. I will be getting back to it here really soon







.


----------



## Blitz6804

In any event, it is good to see you back. I've missed you so much... *reaches for a creepy hug.*

Just kidding. (About the hug part; not about missing you around these parts; it is hard to take place of your antics.)


----------



## thlnk3r

Pioneer, good to see you. Hopefully we'll see you more often.

Just ignore Blitz, he's having cooling issues right now


----------



## BlackOmega

Hey do any of you guys have a 500-600w PSU laying around? I need one for my folding rig and turns out I'm going to have to use my CFX board. It needs to have an 8pin 12v plug and 2 pcie outs. If you guys do let me know


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Hey do any of you guys have a 500-600w PSU laying around? I need one for my folding rig and turns out I'm going to have to use my CFX board. It needs to have an 8pin 12v plug and 2 pcie outs. If you guys do let me know









Let me see if I can find my pull a rabbit out of my hat trick hat. Uhm well that would be a no for me. Sorry I could not find the hat...









Good Luck w/that,

N2G


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hey do any of you guys have a 500-600w PSU laying around? I need one for my folding rig and turns out I'm going to have to use my CFX board. It needs to have an 8pin 12v plug and 2 pcie outs. If you guys do let me know










BlackOmega, sorry buddy wish I could help. Is this the folding rig that will have the two video cards running? Perhaps we can find you a cheap solution on Newegg.

Let us know

Good luck


----------



## Hueristic

BO, you can use mutiple ps's in a system.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


BO, you can use mutiple ps's in a system.


Yes I remember Pio running a set up like that.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Yes I remember Pio running a set up like that.










N2Gaming, I too remember this but didn't he run into issues? How reliable would running two power supplies be? One would think there would be a higher failure rate if another power supply was introduced...

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, I too remember this but didn't he run into issues? How reliable would running two power supplies be? One would think there would be a higher failure rate if another power supply was introduced...

Good luck



Well in theory you would need to utilize all the voltages of each power supply so that one or the other does not get under-used and over heated. You may run into problems if the capacitors and other parts inside the power supply are not used by the surge of power from all the pc componants.







Look at me trying to sound like I know what I'm talking about.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


BO, you can use mutiple ps's in a system.


 Yeah, I thought about that. But this antec squeals if it doesnt have a 12v load. Id rather have a good PSU that'll be able to handle everything. Then who knows I might just build yet another rig









I have 3 mobo's 2 cpus' 5 video cards and 4 HDD's. All I would need is a case and a cd/dvd drive. Too bad I cant fold on the 6800's.


----------



## Blitz6804

There is a thread on OCN on how to make a PSU into a dedicated PSU for folding. Let me see if I can find it.


----------



## Blitz6804

Found it.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I have 3 mobo's 2 cpus' 5 video cards and 4 HDD's. All I would need is a case and a cd/dvd drive. Too bad I cant fold on the 6800's.


BlackOmega, from what you listed above what will be going into this rig?

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Found it.


 Nice thanks blitz. But thats not why I need a new PSU. It turns out that the top heatsink on the GSOs' makes it impossible for them to be on 1 board where the slots are only seperated by 1 pci or pcie1x slot. THey just physically wont fit. Theyre about 10mm too tall. 
So Im going to make the CFX board the dedicated folder and run my 4870 on a NF4 ultra board. But the thing is, I dont want to run my 4870 off of the Antec mainly due to the squealing capacitor, which I can directly correlate to the 12v rail as it drops to 11.6v when the GPUs' are under load. And the Antec only has a 4pin mobo connector and for some reason the CFX wont power up with just a 4pin connector, even though it should.

Hmm.....







But I suppose the 4870 is under lifetime warranty..... Do you guys think that a 500w PSU would be enough to power my 4870?

EDIT:
Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, from what you listed above what will be going into this rig?

Good luck


Well it'll be like this, DFI CFX3200, 2x 9600GSO, 3500+, 1 or 2 gb hyperx, thermalright XP120, and the 40gb IDE HDD I have (as long as its not shot). And this will all live in my Asus vento 3600 case.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I believe the dual-PCIe slot boards did ship with SLI bridges until nVidia complained to DFI. DFI stopped shipping bridges and did a better job of gimping the chipset.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, I too remember this but didn't he run into issues? How reliable would running two power supplies be? One would think there would be a higher failure rate if another power supply was introduced...

Good luck



Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Yeah, I thought about that. But this antec squeals if it doesnt have a 12v load. Id rather have a good PSU that'll be able to handle everything. Then who knows I might just build yet another rig









I have 3 mobo's 2 cpus' 5 video cards and 4 HDD's. All I would need is a case and a cd/dvd drive. Too bad I cant fold on the 6800's.


I have a few running like this with no issues. I split the load up by connecting one ps to MOBO and vid and the other to Drives and the vid.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hmm.....







But I suppose the 4870 is under lifetime warranty..... Do you guys think that a 500w PSU would be enough to power my 4870?


BlackOmega, I wouldn't chance it. I would actually just throw away that Antec PSU. If the 12volt rail is dipping really low (11.6v) then it's probably not worth using anymore. See my post above

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, I wouldn't chance it. I would actually just throw away that Antec PSU. If the 12volt rail is dipping really low (11.6v) then it's probably not worth using anymore. See my post above

Good luck



Thanks th|nk3r. imaginary rep for you







. 
I just bought Joe's PCPnC 610w PSU







that should take care of my power woes.









Ill probably leave the antec around to power a rig that'll have the 6800's on it. Maybe Ill just put it together and sell it, who knows?

Well Im off to cram for a BIO test, c you guys later.


----------



## N2Gaming

I'm on fire... What I mean is I'm now sporting 2 blue flames









I think I'm gonna try to use the Partition magic today to copy my hdd from a 36 to a 74 Gig Raptor then undo all the partitions and then see if it makes any difference in speed. Before I try to Raid 0 them. I have a question regarding installing games w/raid. If I install the games in a system using raid but install the game to a non raided drive then will I still be able to play the game if one of the raid drives fail and I have to re-install the os???

Thank you,

N2G


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I'm on fire... What I mean is I'm now sporting 2 blue flames









I think I'm gonna try to use the Partition magic today to copy my hdd from a 36 to a 74 Gig Raptor then undo all the partitions and then see if it makes any difference in speed. Before I try to Raid 0 them. I have a question regarding installing games w/raid. If I install the games in a system using raid but install the game to a non raided drive then will I still be able to play the game if one of the raid drives fail and I have to re-install the os???

Thank you,

N2G


LOL, sorry but that is a wierd question cause it depends on alot of things.
1. if the os needs to be reinstalled then if your user settings are saved you should be ok
2. if the game is older then the saved games will be with the game files
3. raid 0 only keeps a clone of a drive (thereby protecting that drive) it will not protect any other drive.

Hope this is clear.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I just bought Joe's PCPnC 610w PSU







that should take care of my power woes.


BlackOmega, that should be plenty. Joe is very resourceful when it comes to spare parts. I sometimes email him asking for a request/purchase









Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I'm on fire... What I mean is I'm now sporting 2 blue flames









I have a question regarding installing games w/raid. If I install the games in a system using raid but install the game to a non raided drive then will I still be able to play the game if one of the raid drives fail and I have to re-install the os???


N2Gaming, congratulations on the second flame. Keep up the great work









Your question about RAID confuses me just a tad. What RAID are you referring to? Raid 0 or 1? If this is Raid 0 and one of the drives does fail then NO you will not be able to play the game anymore. Sorry perhaps you can be more detailed with the question.

Good luck


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, I wouldn't chance it. I would actually just throw away that Antec PSU. If the 12volt rail is dipping really low (11.6v) then it's probably not worth using anymore. See my post above

Good luck


What are you talking about...my 12v rail running at 10.4 is just fine...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


What are you talking about...my 12v rail running at 10.4 is just fine...










Tator, this is being reported via Multimeter or Software?

That is very low...or are you just joking









Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


LOL, sorry but that is a wierd question cause it depends on alot of things.
1. if the os needs to be reinstalled then if your user settings are saved you should be ok
2. if the game is older then the saved games will be with the game files
3. raid 0 only keeps a clone of a drive (thereby protecting that drive) it will not protect any other drive.

Hope this is clear.











Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, congratulations on the second flame. Keep up the great work









Your question about RAID confuses me just a tad. What RAID are you referring to? Raid 0 or 1? If this is Raid 0 and one of the drives does fail then NO you will not be able to play the game anymore. Sorry perhaps you can be more detailed with the question.

Good luck


.

Thanks guys and sorry if I was not totally clear on my intentions.

I want to use 3 HDD's 2 of which are identical Raptor Drives for a RAID 0. I was under the impression that a RAID 0 was a striped set meaning that half of any file/stored information is split up between the two Raidied drives. So w/that said I was hoping that I could RAID 0 two identical drives and then install my games on a 3rd non raided drive and now that I think about it that would kind of defeat the purpose of using raid. Unless I used 4 dirves and raided them all w/RAID 0+1


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


.

Thanks guys and sorry if I was not totally clear on my intentions.

I want to use 3 HDD's 2 of which are identical Raptor Drives for a RAID 0. I was under the impression that a RAID 0 was a striped set meaning that half of any file/stored information is split up between the two Raidied drives. So w/that said I was hoping that I could RAID 0 two identical drives and then install my games on a 3rd non raided drive and now that I think about it that would kind of defeat the purpose of using raid. Unless I used 4 dirves and raided them all w/RAID 0+1


Sorry N2 your right







0 isn't mirrored it's striped. for speed. I haven't set one up sice VLB days.

IIRC (which is probally wrong!) some setups are capable of rebuilding from a stripe (I think you need 3 drives in the array though).

Striped is not a good idea for 2 drives IMO as you have twice the chance to lose everything. The little extra speed just doesn't seem worth it to me. 0+1 is good.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator, this is being reported via Multimeter or Software?

That is very low...or are you just joking









Good luck


Bugged Software, multimeter says 12.001v.

Under load it can go up to 12.1 though.









Though, I did freak a few people out with that when I was using Dual 2900Xt's or Dual 8800GTS 640 SSCs.

Many a freakouts were caused.

I think its HWmonitor that reports bad. But I think its board related. I'm not sure though, I never loaded it up on my EVGA 590 SLi.

But yeah, Multimeter says I'm good, so I'm not worried. 
Though I do plan to get rid of the PSU soon/ish.

The 3.3 has a nasty ripple. 1.38% I'm not terribly worried. But I want to move up to an 85%+ efficient PSU.

Just not much of a selection on that at the moment. (750 or 850watt)


----------



## Blitz6804

If the three drives are the same, and your controller can do it, RAID 5 will give some redundancy (unlike RAID 0) and have the same capacity as two drives in RAID 0.

Regards the question of installing games on the non-RAID drive and the OS on a RAID drive, you may or may not be able to play games without reinstalling them. The problem is that many of the modern games require additions to the registry to play them. (Whereas old games can just be played from the executable with nothing else.) If you have such a game, you would manually need to copy over the registry to the new installation.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


If the three drives are the same, and your controller can do it, RAID 5 will give some redundancy (unlike RAID 0) and have the same capacity as two drives in RAID 0.

Regards the question of installing games on the non-RAID drive and the OS on a RAID drive, you may or may not be able to play games without reinstalling them. The problem is that many of the modern games require additions to the registry to play them. (Whereas old games can just be played from the executable with nothing else.) If you have such a game, you would manually need to copy over the registry to the new installation.


Thanks blitz that is a good enough answer for me.







Hueristic was hinting to this but I did not understand, it all make better sense now.


----------



## Blitz6804

Right, he was referring to RAID 3/4/5/6. Those are all stripe with a parity. The differences between them are no so subtle:

RAID 3: Dedicated parity drive; bit or byte level striping
RAID 4: Dedicated parity drive; block level striping
RAID 5: Distributed parity across all drives; block level striping
RAID 6: Dual distributed parity across all drives; block level striping

With RAID 3/4/5, you need at least three drives and you can rebuild after replacing up to one dead drive.

With RAID 6, you need at least four drives and you can rebuild after replacing up to two dead drives.


----------



## N2Gaming

Well I do believe every mobo that I own supports raid 0,1,0+1 & 5. I'll look a little more into raid 5. I'm only gonna be raiding 74 gig raptors so I guess I better make sure that I don't exceed 75% usage of all the drives so that I do not slow the system down any. Raid 5 requires 3 or more drives???


----------



## Blitz6804

Correct. You have to have at least two data drives (for striping) and one parity drive. Granted, the parity is distributed, but it is a helpful analogy. Basically, RAID 5 is RAID 0 with a parity block tacked on. That parity is what permits the computer to deduce what the missing data is in the event of a drive failure. Total capacity is the size of the smallest drives multiplied by one less than the total number of drives. If you run RAID 5 on two Raptor 74 GBs and one Raptop 36 GB, your capacity would be 72 GB with 38 GB free on each of the 74 GB Raptors. Replace the 36 GB with another 74 GB, and you get 148 GB capacity with all drives maxed out.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Correct. You have to have at least two data drives (for striping) and one parity drive. Granted, the parity is distributed, but it is a helpful analogy. Basically, RAID 5 is RAID 0 with a parity block tacked on. That parity is what permits the computer to deduce what the missing data is in the event of a drive failure. Total capacity is the size of the smallest drives multiplied by one less than the total number of drives. If you run RAID 5 on two Raptor 74 GBs and one Raptop 36 GB, your capacity would be 72 GB with 38 GB free on each of the 74 GB Raptors. Replace the 36 GB with another 74 GB, and you get 148 GB capacity with all drives maxed out.


OK cool, I think I can live w/148G capacity for a gaming set up. I will boot up BNBB to see what the total used space is now on the 500G drive and use that to guage weather or not it would be a good raid solution for me.

Thank you,

N2G

Ediot: I mean I'm an idiot... I already have over 105 G of used space on a 465G capacity drive. ARG I may have to look into WD upgrade promotion for 3 x 300G Velociraptors...


----------



## Hueristic

Nice explanations Blitz, You've got a great memory!


----------



## Tator Tot

Hey Blitz, I have a question.

Could you do a RAID 5 with 2 320gb drives, and 1 640?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
If the three drives are the same, and your controller can do it, RAID 5 will give some redundancy (unlike RAID 0) and have the same capacity as two drives in RAID 0.

Regards the question of installing games on the non-RAID drive and the OS on a RAID drive, you may or may not be able to play games without reinstalling them. The problem is that many of the modern games require additions to the registry to play them. (Whereas old games can just be played from the executable with nothing else.) If you have such a game, you would manually need to copy over the registry to the new installation.

Blitz, excellent call.

N2Gaming, just note though if you decide to run raid 5 with three drives and if one dies you'll see a noticeable hit in drive I/O. I personally *prefer* four drives in raid 5. For gaming and pure performance I would stick with raid 0. If you perform daily or weekly backups on another drive then don't worry about it. Put those three drives in raid 0









Good luck


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Could you do a RAID 5 with 2 320gb drives, and 1 640?

Tator, you can however there will only be about 595GB of free space (before a Windows installation). You'll only be able to utilize half the size of the 640GB drive.

Hope that helps


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz, excellent call.

N2Gaming, just note though if you decide to run raid 5 with three drives and if one dies you'll see a noticeable hit in drive I/O. I personally *prefer* four drives in raid 5. For gaming and pure performance I would stick with raid 0. If you perform daily or weekly backups on another drive then don't worry about it. Put those three drives in raid 0









Good luck

Thanks thlnk3r, I opened up a whole new can of worms today.







and I am learning a lot from this can man... I never back up any thing.







I prolly should especially if I'm gonna do a raid set up.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Tator, you can however there will only be about 595GB of free space (before a Windows installation). You'll only be able to utilize half the size of the 640GB drive.

Hope that helps









So I couldn't set the 640gb drive so I would have full redundancy?

Oh well.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
OK cool, I think I can live w/148G capacity for a gaming set up. I will boot up BNBB to see what the total used space is now on the 500G drive and use that to guage weather or not it would be a good raid solution for me.

Thank you,

N2G

Ediot: I mean I'm an idiot... I already have over 105 G of used space on a 465G capacity drive. ARG I may have to look into WD upgrade promotion for 3 x 300G Velociraptors...

N2Gaming, if you're having difficulties calculating disk space with Raid then try this tool: http://www.ibeast.com/content/tools/...c/RaidCalc.asp

Three 300GB Velociraptors in Raid 0 would be ridiculous. You should talk to DuckieHO, he has a similar setup on a Perc 5 controller.

Good luck


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
So I couldn't set the 640gb drive so I would have full redundancy?

Oh well.

Tator, you'll still have redundancy it's just the drive will only be able to utilize 320GB. It's recommend that you use the same size drives, cache, model ect when setting up Raid.

Good luck


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Tator, you'll still have redundancy it's just the drive will only be able to utilize 320GB. It's recommend that you use the same size drives, cache, model ect when setting up Raid.

Good luck

I meant as though, would I have full redundancy, meaning the two 320gb drives would be backed up to the 640.

And I know that









Only reason I don't throw all my 250's in a RAID. They very from SATA 1 to SATA 2 spec. And some are 16 meg (SATA 2 models) and some are SATA 1 8mb models.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
I meant as though, would I have full redundancy, meaning the two 320gb drives would be backed up to the 640.

Tator, here is some information about Raid 5 that may help: http://www.pcguide.com/ref/hdd/perf/...eLevel5-c.html. In regards to your question, the answer is no. Raid 5 will stripe the data and parity across the three drives. It's not going to "backup" your (2) 320GB drives to your 640GB drive.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Thanks thlnk3r, I opened up a whole new can of worms today.







and I am learning a lot from this can man... I never back up any thing.







 I prolly should especially if I'm gonna do a raid set up.

Even with RAID 1, that is, mirroring producing two identical copies of every bit of datum, regular backups are a necessity. If something happens killing both drives, like an explosive power supply death, say good by to your data.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
So I couldn't set the 640gb drive so I would have full redundancy?

On an Intel Matrix controller I think you can do this. You would in a sense be making a RAID 0+1, where the 640 GB drive replaces a pair of 320 GB drives. The overhead would likely be ridiculous and your fault tolerances shoddy; I say go without.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Even with RAID 1, that is, mirroring producing two identical copies of every bit of datum, regular backups are a necessity. If something happens killing both drives, like an explosive power supply death, say good by to your data.

On an Intel Matrix controller I think you can do this. You would in a sense be making a RAID 0+1, where the 640 GB drive replaces a pair of 320 GB drives. The overhead would likely be ridiculous and your fault tolerances shoddy; I say go without.

Good info thanks.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


On an Intel Matrix controller I think you can do this. You would in a sense be making a RAID 0+1, where the 640 GB drive replaces a pair of 320 GB drives. The overhead would likely be ridiculous and your fault tolerances shoddy; I say go without.


Blitz, isn't this technically considered software raid? I hear a lot of "trash" talk about that particular subject quite often at work









Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I believe it is. What you are basically doing is making a RAID 0 hardware RAID, and then using that and your 640 GB drive together in a RAID 1 software RAID.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


On an Intel Matrix controller I think you can do this. You would in a sense be making a RAID 0+1, where the 640 GB drive replaces a pair of 320 GB drives. The overhead would likely be ridiculous and your fault tolerances shoddy; I say go without.


Yes it can, and Matrix RAID holds up fine. I've never had that much of an issue with it, setting up the Matrix RAID is a little hard, and not for someone with out a good 2 or 3 hours of dedication to read/learn what they need to do. Get it going. And have fun with (this is an estimate of total build to deployment time for actually building the whole rig)

-The only major complaint to be had about Matrix RAID is you need an ICH9R or ICH10R south bridge. Or a 500$ Intel RAID card.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, isn't this technically considered software raid? I hear a lot of "trash" talk about that particular subject quite often at work









Good luck



Never had Issues with Intel's Matrix RAID. And its not Software. Its hardware based, to do a Matrix RAID you need either the ICH9R or ICH10R south bridge.

It has actually treated me nice, and has done what I wanted to do it. But since I plan to upgrade to AM3, I was considering RAID 5, as I wasn't sure if it had similar properties.

Intel's matrix RAID can best be described as a Hybrid of RAID 0+1 & RAID 5


----------



## thlnk3r

Thanks guys for the info


----------



## Blitz6804

I never noticed until now thlnk3r, but your drives are in RAID 1. You only need 80 GB of space? I know you said you have scaled your gaming way back, but I still about 42 GB in just the my documents folder.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Thanks guys for the info









Theirs alot more to it, but that is just the simple way of putting it.

Matrix's nice point over RAID 0+1 is that you can use an odd number of drives.

So you can have 4 x 500gb drives backed up by 1 x 2tb drive.

If you were doing RAID 0+1 you'd need 8 500gb drives.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I never noticed until now thlnk3r, but your drives are in RAID 1. You only need 80 GB of space? I know you said you have scaled your gaming way back, but I still about 42 GB in just the my documents folder.

External maybe?

I have my OS partitioned off into 80gb's. I keep documents their as well.
But I keep my other media on the other drives. And my games on the rest of my partitioned space.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Theirs alot more to it, but that is just the simple way of putting it.

Matrix's nice point over RAID 0+1 is that you can use an odd number of drives.

So you can have 4 x 500gb drives backed up by 1 x 2tb drive.

If you were doing RAID 0+1 you'd need 8 500gb drives.

External maybe?

I have my OS partitioned off into 80gb's. I keep documents their as well.
But I keep my other media on the other drives. And my games on the rest of my partitioned space.

So I tried the Partition majic 8.0 trial and it wont actually let you make the changes.







It only pretends to do it and shows you what the results would be had you actually purchased the product.:swearing: Why do they even bother allowing me to install something that I can't even tell if it's gonna work for me or not. I tell you these companies are getting cheaper and cheaper and if the software don't work 9 times out of ten your stuck w/the software unless you can get some other sucker to buy it from you.

After saying all that what I really want to know is this. Is there a good free disk manager tool available for download???

Thank you,

N2G


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


So I tried the Partition majic 8.0 trial and it wont actually let you make the changes.







It only pretends to do it and shows you what the results would be had you actually purchased the product.:swearing: Why do they even bother allowing me to install something that I can't even tell if it's gonna work for me or not. I tell you these companies are getting cheaper and cheaper and if the software don't work 9 times out of ten your stuck w/the software unless you can get some other sucker to buy it from you.

After saying all that what I really want to know is this. Is there a good free disk manager tool available for download???

Thank you,

N2G


N2G, though I personally don't find it too user-friendly, GParted is known to be an excellent partition manager. I wish I knew more to be able to guide you on how to use it, but I don't.







However, perhaps somebody else has good working experience with it and would be able to help you out in case you find it baffling (I have to admit that I did, when I tried it a long time ago).

Good luck.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


N2G, though I personally don't find it too user-friendly, GParted is known to be an excellent partition manager. I wish I knew more to be able to guide you on how to use it, but I don't.







However, perhaps somebody else has good working experience with it and would be able to help you out in case you find it baffling (I have to admit that I did, when I tried it a long time ago).

Good luck.











Thnx joe, I'll check it out now.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, if you're having difficulties calculating disk space with Raid then try this tool: http://www.ibeast.com/content/tools/...c/RaidCalc.asp

Three 300GB Velociraptors in Raid 0 would be ridiculous. You should talk to DuckieHO, he has a similar setup on a Perc 5 controller.

Good luck


Great tool thx for the link!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I never noticed until now thlnk3r, but your drives are in RAID 1. You only need 80 GB of space? I know you said you have scaled your gaming way back, but I still about 42 GB in just the my documents folder.


I couldn't fit my Pr0n on that!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


N2G, though I personally don't find it too user-friendly, GParted is known to be an excellent partition manager. I wish I knew more to be able to guide you on how to use it, but I don't.







However, perhaps somebody else has good working experience with it and would be able to help you out in case you find it baffling (I have to admit that I did, when I tried it a long time ago).

Good luck.










That's The link I was talking about that Joe posted, N2. Thx for reposting it Joe! I lost it!
Man thinking about raid setups hurts my brain and my back.








Guess that's why I live in a chair like a bum instead of working now.


----------



## N2Gaming

I tell you what nothing is free these days. I get a free 1 Mb file in a .tar format and I have to do more research to figure out how to unzip it if that is in fact what I have to do. I'm about to say fudge it and purchase the damb Partion majic. Damb mother Effer corparations have no love for simpletons like my self...


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I tell you what nothing is free these days. I get a free 1 Mb file in a .tar format and I have to do more research to figure out how to unzip it if that is in fact what I have to do. I'm about to say fudge it and purchase the damb Partion majic. Damb mother Effer corparations have no love for simpletons like my self...










I use Winrar and Tar98.


----------



## Blitz6804

I use gParted quite frequently both the standalone boot CD and as part of Ubuntu's LiveCD. Just a tip... if you resize a partition containing Windows, make sure you run a check disk before doing anything else with the drive. If you repartition and install a new OS on the new partition, you might make it such that you can access neither install (on the resized partition or the new partition) without a fair bit of hassle. I found this out the hard way.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


I use Winrar and Tar98.


Thanks. I'm so frustrated right now. I don't want to spend 3 days trying to figure out how to unzip, install and use a drive manager.

I just found this From HERE. It is free but I have x64 bit os so I have to use the professional version and I don't think it is free. I down loaded the professional ver. I will give it a go and see how much it will cost me if any thing.

EDIT:

Well I tried it and it is a rip off of Nortons Partition magic. I mean it looks identical but like a cheaper version which it is. Only $30 something dollars. Will some one try out the 32 bit home freeware version and tell me if it is any good so that I can post it in the M2N thread as a freeware tool.

Thank you,

N2G

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I use gParted quite frequently both the standalone boot CD and as part of Ubuntu's LiveCD. Just a tip... if you resize a partition containing Windows, make sure you run a check disk before doing anything else with the drive. If you repartition and install a new OS on the new partition, you might make it such that you can access neither install (on the resized partition or the new partition) without a fair bit of hassle. I found this out the hard way.



Thanks. I'm trying to find an easy solution to my problem... Explained. I have a 36G Raptor that has 3 partitions. C, E & F. C is useless waiste of 10 GB and E is full 10 Gb and F is almost full. The boot partition is C I think and my windows files are on E so I can't update to SP2 untill I free up some room.

Now w/that in mind here is what I'm intending to do. take the 74 gig raptor and clone the 36 G raptor. then remove the 36 G raptor from the machine and keep it safe for now. Then boot the sytem w/the 74 G Raptor and resize and merge all the partitions. Now since I'm using a x64 bit os there seems to be no easy way around the fee for the partitioning tool.


----------



## BlackOmega

Why even bother partitioning a 36GB drive? I mean maybe 1 partition, but even that on that small of a drive just seems kind of ...well ... useless.
On my 250 GB drives I make a 38MB partition for the OS and all of the other application type software like Adobe and whatnot. And that alone usually takes almost 20GB.


----------



## Blitz6804

Okay... here is how you do it, assuming that Windows is installed on drive C:

1) Clone the 36 GB to the 74 GB
2) Using gParted, move F partition over to the end of the drive
3) Boot to Windows; it will do check disk automatically
4) Using gParted, move E partition over to the end of the drive
5) Boot to Windows; it will do check disk automatically
6) Using gParted, resize C partition to fill the empty space between itself and partition E
7) Boot to Windows; it will do check disk automatically
8) Using Windows, copy all data from E and F into C
9) Using gParted, delete partitions E and F
10) Boot to Windows; it will do check disk automatically
11) Using gParted, resize partition C to fill the entire volume
12) Boot to Windows; it will do check disk automatically

This entire process will take a few days. Each partition resize/move takes about 2-3 hours.

Here is how you do it assuming that Windows is installed on drive E:

1) Clone the 36 GB to the 74 GB
2) Using gParted, move F partition over to the end of the drive
3) Boot to Windows; it will do check disk automatically
4) Using gParted, resize E partition to fill the empty space between itself and partition F
5) Boot to Windows; it will do check disk automatically
6) Using Windows, copy all data from C and F into E
7) Boot to Windows; it will do check disk automatically
8) Using gParted, delete partitions C and F
9) Boot to Windows; it will do check disk automatically
10) Using gParted, resize partition E to fill the entire volume
11) Boot to Windows; it will do check disk automatically

I think you would be better served scrubbing it and starting fresh however.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Why even bother partitioning a 36GB drive? I mean maybe 1 partition, but even that on that small of a drive just seems kind of ...well ... useless.
On my 250 GB drives I make a 38MB partition for the OS and all of the other application type software like Adobe and whatnot. And that alone usually takes almost 20GB.

Hey there you are kicking me in the shorts again.







jk

I actually installed this drive back in 2005 when I built the system and I did not know nearly as much as I do now. However I was going off of the DFI Street suggestions of using a small partition to make boot and seek times faster and so on. I had several problems getting the system installed and running properly back then using the x64 bit os and all. Primarily driver and bios settings. Any way to make a long story short once I got the system installed I just left it the way it was because it was so fast and I was happy w/it the way it was. Now for the longer version of the story. About a year ago or so I tried to boot up my system but it would not boot. It turned out my hard drive was full and I was not able to load windows. I think it had to do w/some kind of swop file and the lack of room on the OS partition. So any way that is what brought me to this sight. I had a couple of people offering to buy my mobo from me because I like many other people at the time did not know any better. Once I figured out that it was not loading the os properly because the os partition was too full I started unistalling and deleating files. Well actually I got another 160 G WD and started moving the files. So now I'm left w/the problems that I have. Some files are hard to replace and transfer. Besides reinstalling the os is not someting I prefer to do when I got this one all dialed in.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Okay... here is how you do it, assuming that Windows is installed on drive C:

1) Clone the 36 GB to the 74 GB
2) Using gParted, move F partition over to the end of the drive
3) Boot to Windows; it will do check disk automatically
4) Using gParted, move E partition over to the end of the drive
5) Boot to Windows; it will do check disk automatically
6) Using gParted, resize C partition to fill the empty space between itself and partition E
7) Boot to Windows; it will do check disk automatically
8) Using Windows, copy all data from E and F into C
9) Using gParted, delete partitions E and F
10) Boot to Windows; it will do check disk automatically
11) Using gParted, resize partition C to fill the entire volume
12) Boot to Windows; it will do check disk automatically

This entire process will take a few days. Each partition resize/move takes about 2-3 hours.

Here is how you do it assuming that Windows is installed on drive E:

1) Clone the 36 GB to the 74 GB
2) Using gParted, move F partition over to the end of the drive
3) Boot to Windows; it will do check disk automatically
4) Using gParted, resize E partition to fill the empty space between itself and partition F
5) Boot to Windows; it will do check disk automatically
6) Using Windows, copy all data from C and F into E
7) Boot to Windows; it will do check disk automatically
8) Using gParted, delete partitions C and F
9) Boot to Windows; it will do check disk automatically
10) Using gParted, resize partition E to fill the entire volume
11) Boot to Windows; it will do check disk automatically

I think you would be better served scrubbing it and starting fresh however.

thanks I would try the second suggestion if I knew how to use the Gparted.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Hey there you are kicking me in the shorts again.







jk

I actually installed this drive back in 2005 when I built the system and I did not know nearly as much as I do now. However I was going off of the DFI Street suggestions of using a small partition to make boot and seek times faster and so on. I had several problems getting the system installed and running properly back then using the x64 bit os and all. Primarily driver and bios settings. Any way to make a long story short once I got the system installed I just left it the way it was because it was so fast and I was happy w/it the way it was. Now for the longer version of the story. About a year ago or so I tried to boot up my system but it would not boot. It turned out my hard drive was full and I was not able to load windows. I think it had to do w/some kind of swop file and the lack of room on the OS partition. So any way that is what brought me to this sight. I had a couple of people offering to buy my mobo from me because I like many other people at the time did not know any better. Once I figured out that it was not loading the os properly because the os partition was too full I started unistalling and deleating files. Well actually I got another 160 G WD and started moving the files. So now I'm left w/the problems that I have. Some files are hard to replace and transfer. Besides reinstalling the os is not someting I prefer to do when I got this one all dialed in.


































I hear ya. I hate reinstalling OS's, mainly because I've got so many damn games (~120gb worth) and even though I have all the patches backed up on CD's it _still_ takes for freakin ever.
And now that Im setting up this folding rig on the CFX, gonna have to make a RAID array on the NF4 as neither of my 2 NF4 ultra boards have the Sil SATA controller. :swearing: even if they did, there would be all sorts of conflicts because of the chipsets.

I still cant understand why someone would suggest partitioning such a small drive. I mean its a raptor FFS. Its already fast it doesnt need smaller partitions to make it faster









Glad you found this site when you did


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 























I hear ya. I hate reinstalling OS's, mainly because I've got so many damn games (~120gb worth) and even though I have all the patches backed up on CD's it _still_ takes for freakin ever.
And now that Im setting up this folding rig on the CFX, gonna have to make a RAID array on the NF4 as neither of my 2 NF4 ultra boards have the Sil SATA controller. :swearing: even if they did, there would be all sorts of conflicts because of the chipsets.

I still cant understand why someone would suggest partitioning such a small drive. I mean its a raptor FFS. Its already fast it doesnt need smaller partitions to make it faster









Glad you found this site when you did









Well I'm sure I did not completely follow the guide to a T but in therory I did as the threads mentioned.

Yeah I'm glad I found OCN too just in a nick of time... Now all I have is time...









I just found another Disk Manager called Parted Magic I'm gonna give it a try since it uses a live cd to run the application.


----------



## Blitz6804

gParted is a relatively easy interface to operate. I personally use the Ubuntu 7.10 x86 LiveDVD to do it because I am too lazy to download the newest x64 version. I can get you a screenshot guide possibly tomorrow night. The interface is the same in gParted or Ubuntu launching gParted. The advantage of using Ubuntu is you also get the terminal.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thanks. I'm so frustrated right now. I don't want to spend 3 days trying to figure out how to unzip, install and use a drive manager.

I just found this From HERE. It is free but I have x64 bit os so I have to use the professional version and I don't think it is free. I down loaded the professional ver. I will give it a go and see how much it will cost me if any thing.

EDIT:

Well I tried it and it is a rip off of Nortons Partition magic. I mean it looks identical but like a cheaper version which it is. Only $30 something dollars. Will some one try out the 32 bit home freeware version and tell me if it is any good so that I can post it in the M2N thread as a freeware tool.

Thank you,

N2G

Thanks. I'm trying to find an easy solution to my problem... Explained. I have a 36G Raptor that has 3 partitions. C, E & F. C is useless waiste of 10 GB and E is full 10 Gb and F is almost full. The boot partition is C I think and my windows files are on E so I can't update to SP2 untill I free up some room.

Now w/that in mind here is what I'm intending to do. take the 74 gig raptor and clone the 36 G raptor. then remove the 36 G raptor from the machine and keep it safe for now. Then boot the sytem w/the 74 G Raptor and resize and merge all the partitions. Now since I'm using a x64 bit os there seems to be no easy way around the fee for the partitioning tool.


It works nice on 32bit. Put a 32 bit os on the 10gig and work from that.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


gParted is a relatively easy interface to operate. I personally use the Ubuntu 7.10 x86 LiveDVD to do it because I am too lazy to download the newest x64 version. I can get you a screenshot guide possibly tomorrow night. The interface is the same in gParted or Ubuntu launching gParted. The advantage of using Ubuntu is you also get the terminal.


 Man I think when I get 3 rigs up and runnig, I'm going to have to try Ubuntu on one of them. Curiosity is getting the better of me.









Offtopic: (sorta) Hue is that actually you in your avatar? I've been wondering that for a while now


----------



## Blitz6804

I like to think so; never knew though.

BlackOmega: If you wish to do CPU or SMP folding on a rig, Linux is the way to go. If you want a GPU folder, you definitely want it running Windows.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I like to think so; never knew though.

BlackOmega: If you wish to do CPU or SMP folding on a rig, Linux is the way to go. If you want a GPU folder, you definitely want it running Windows.


 Well I'd just like to check it out and learn how to use it. I've heard so much about linux and ubuntu, some people love it, some hate it. I'd like to think that if I learn how to use it, it'll make me a better techie









ANd it wouldn't be for a folding rig, simply because running a rig to get a measly 200 PPD out of a 3500+ just wouldn't be worth it IMO. It'd be more to learn how to use ubuntu. Aside from that it would have 2 6800 on it, so its not like they can fold anyway. And even if the could Im sure they wouldnt do much better than the 3500+.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


It works nice on 32bit. Put a 32 bit os on the 10gig and work from that.










 Thanks I'm actually using the Parted magic ATM and typing this form the LiveCD. this is pretty cool. BTW the Parted magic has the Gparted app built in along w/firefox and some other cool features. I think I just stumbled onto one of those great apps that we may want to post in the free apps section of OCN. I'm gonna try to see if I can figure out the Gparted software that is built into this Pated Magic. Besides the F drive is full as well so I have no more room for windows 98. besides this new system does not like windows 98. So I'm gonna go back to the other window now I will keep you all posted. typing this in firefox w/out xp









Edit: Update, I have just cleared the 74 gig raptor and then copied and pasted all 3 partitions from the 36 gig raptor over to the 74 gig raptor. Gparted finished the first copy and paste fairly quick being as it only has a bout 200 MB of data on it. when I left the tool to go back here it was in the process of copying the second partition over from 36 to 74 and I am able to still use web browsing. How cool is that. Ha ha this is friging awesome...


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hue is that actually you in your avatar? I've been wondering that for a while now




















Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Edit: Update, I have just cleared the 74 gig raptor and then copied and pasted all 3 partitions from the 36 gig raptor over to the 74 gig raptor. Gparted finished the first copy and paste fairly quick being as it only has a bout 200 MB of data on it. when I left the tool to go back here it was in the process of copying the second partition over from 36 to 74 and I am able to still use web browsing. How cool is that. Ha ha this is friging awesome...


SHWeeT, Sounds like your all set now! Boot disks rock, I couldn't live without um. I'll have to check that out my bartpe doesn't have copy/paste/merge partitions on it I use PM boot disks for that(and i don't think it has merge...i ferget







).


----------



## Blitz6804

BlackOmega: If not for Linux's lack of DX/OpenGL support for gaming, Windows would be in serious trouble. Internet browsing is more secure (given the very high bar a virus would need to jump through), it is infinitely customizable, its free, and it is faster than Windows for most applications. The biggest issues holding me back from switching to Linux full time are, as I said, the inability to play modern games and the ease in screwwing it up. I have that dangerous stage of knowledge where I know enough to start tinkering in places I should not be but not really enough to undo what I did while tinkering. If I knew more, I would not break it. If I knew less, I would not touch it.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*











SHWeeT, Sounds like your all set now! Boot disks rock, I couldn't live without um. I'll have to check that out my bartpe doesn't have copy/paste/merge partitions on it I use PM boot disks for that(and i don't think it has merge...i ferget







).


Tell me about it how shweet it is.







well I just had a case of almost :turd: ing my pants. I copied all 3 at the same time. and when I was done surfing w/firefox I switched back to the Gparted window "BTW this Parted magic has 4 windows of taskes that you can do from the mouse controlled window off the LiveCD" Now where was I, oh yeah I had a msg that part 2 of three had an error. To make a long story shot I thought I wiped out my primary bood disk becuase when I tried to load os from 74 gig it said no os. So when I tried the 36 gig I got the same msg. So w/out paniking I del into bios and changed the HDD boot priority and xp did a hdd scan and then booted into windows. Swew wipes forehead. I will try it one more time to see if I can get it right on the 74 gig. BTW I don't know why but this pc I'm on now "BNBB" loads OCN pages so darn slow. ARG like pancake syrup running down a tree. but it surfs the web and other internet sights just fine. Hmm don't know why that is...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I never noticed until now thlnk3r, but your drives are in RAID 1. You only need 80 GB of space? I know you said you have scaled your gaming way back, but I still about 42 GB in just the my documents folder.

Blitz, good question. I have all my important data stored on other drives. I have a few brand new 750GB AAKS drives that I might be using for storage soon as well.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I hear ya. I hate reinstalling OS's, mainly because I've got so many damn games (~120gb worth) and even though I have all the patches backed up on CD's it _still_ takes for freakin ever. And now that Im setting up this folding rig on the CFX, gonna have to make a RAID array on the NF4 as neither of my 2 NF4 ultra boards have the Sil SATA controller. :swearing: even if they did, there would be all sorts of conflicts because of the chipsets.

BlackOmega, I think I might of posted this already once but I use this software at work: http://www.uiu4you.com/uiu_description.html. I simply restore the image to a PC, reboot and it'll sysprep by itself. I can have a OS up and running in a few minutes with all new updates, AV, MS Office ect ect. Great tool if you hate going through all the hassle of sitting there and waiting for Windows updates to finish or waiting for a app/game to install. Of course this application comes with a price









Good luck guys


----------



## TheSubtleKnife

I guess im late to the party!
















Loved my old 3800+ X2, Lanparty expert, and Corsair XMS ram! 939 for ever!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz, good question. I have all my important data stored on other drives. I have a few brand new 750GB AAKS drives that I might be using for storage soon as well.

BlackOmega, I think I might of posted this already once but I use this software at work: http://www.uiu4you.com/uiu_description.html. I simply restore the image to a PC, reboot and it'll sysprep by itself. I can have a OS up and running in a few minutes with all new updates, AV, MS Office ect ect. Great tool if you hate going through all the hassle of sitting there and waiting for Windows updates to finish or waiting for a app/game to install. Of course this application comes with a price









Good luck guys

I saw that, but guess what

Quote:

The UIU is not designed to function with RAID based systems.
So thats a no go. Guess I gotta do it the old fashioned way.









EDIT: NIce OC on that 3800







kind of a crazy temp difference between the cores though.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
So thats a no go. Guess I gotta do it the old fashioned way.









BlackOmega, doh sorry about that. Forgot it only works on single drive configurations. I keep forgetting you guys are doing RAID now









TheSubtleKnife, nice overclock on that Toledo. I hardly see any 3800+ Toledo's. Most of the 3800+'s that I have seen in the club have been Manchester's.

Good job!


----------



## TheSubtleKnife

Quote:

EDIT: NIce OC on that 3800 kind of a crazy temp difference between the cores though.
Yeah, that was due to my BT being the VX revision, so it used the stock heatsink bracket, which bent, so it pulls away from the upper half of the die (naked core ftw)


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, doh sorry about that. Forgot it only works on single drive configurations. I keep forgetting you guys are doing RAID now









TheSubtleKnife, nice overclock on that Toledo. I hardly see any 3800+ Toledo's. Most of the 3800+'s that I have seen in the club have been Manchester's.

Good job!


ITs cool







It would've been nice to do that though. from install to usability in 10 mins would've been very nice. NOw its going to take _hours_ :swearing:


----------



## thlnk3r

TheSubtleKnife, did you notice a huge performance jump going from your S939 3800+ Toledo to your current E2160?

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TheSubtleKnife* 
Yeah, that was due to my BT being the VX revision, so it used the stock heatsink bracket, which bent, so it pulls away from the upper half of the die (naked core ftw)

O that sucks. I used the supplied brackets that came with mine (refurb from Tt). I still had to lap it cuz it was concave. But after the lap job it actually does very well at keeping my 180 cool.
I'm actually typing this off of my folding rig which has a naked 3500+ on it







Even at 1.55v this thing doesnt load any hotter than 45*C.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
ITs cool







It would've been nice to do that though. from install to usability in 10 mins would've been very nice. NOw its going to take _hours_ :swearing:

BlackOmega, I know it's possible with Acronis I just haven't figured out a way for the initial LiveCD or MiniPE cd to detect the raid array so I can deploy restore/create an image. I'm sure it does with the proper driver and chipset support....

Good luck


----------



## TheSubtleKnife

Quote:

TheSubtleKnife, did you notice a huge performance jump going from your S939 3800+ Toledo to your current E2160?
Actually, I was pretty dissapointed... i had both a 2180 and a 2160, and neither overclocked much past my 3800, even with 1.5v i could only get 3.1. Actually these 65nm CPU's took more volts to hit 2.95 than my 3800X2,lol. Performance wise, I didnt notice that much of a jump, got like 700 more points in 3dm06. Actually nowm i have a E7200 at 3.8Ghz(gotta update sig), and now i see the difference =P. I think it was the 1MB cache tied with the old FSB architecture that slowed down the E21X0's and that i got 2 crappy OCrs =/


----------



## BlackOmega

THe cool thing about UIU was that it would detect the hardware configs and let you change whatever was necessary before implanting the image. Thats a really nice feature.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TheSubtleKnife* 
Actually, I was pretty dissapointed... i had both a 2180 and a 2160, and neither overclocked much past my 3800, even with 1.5v i could only get 3.1. Actually these 65nm CPU's took more volts to hit 2.95 than my 3800X2,lol. Performance wise, I didnt notice that much of a jump, got like 700 more points in 3dm06. Actually nowm i have a E7200 at 3.8Ghz(gotta update sig), and now i see the difference =P. I think it was the 1MB cache tied with the old FSB architecture that slowed down the E21X0's and that i got 2 crappy OCrs =/


People dont give the 939's the credit they deserve anymore. They cant believe that our old rigs can keep up with newer stuff. Obviously not in benchmarking, but they do very well. I was planning on upgrading to AM3, but I've decided to hold off, probably till around Christmas time when all the sales are going on.








And it's not like I'll even need to then as I can play anything and everything maxed out with full AA.
Ill still keep these 939ers around to fold on though


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
THe cool thing about UIU was that it would detect the hardware configs and let you change whatever was necessary before implanting the image. Thats a really nice feature.

BlackOmega, I really enjoy using the software at work. Sometimes it's a pain to get going (in terms of getting the image started). Once all is said and done it's a breeze.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, I really enjoy using the software at work. Sometimes it's a pain to get going (in terms of getting the image started). Once all is said and done it's a breeze.

Man using that software would be awesome to setup an office/dealership network where all of the computers are set up the same. You could charge a flat fee and it would take you very little time to actually accomplish the task.


----------



## N2Gaming

I finally finished copying all the partitions over to the 74 gig Raptor and everything is as it was on the 36 gig raptor.









Now to see if I can resize and merge the partitions.









I'll keep you all posted.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Okay...

Here is how you do it assuming that Windows is installed on drive E:

1) Clone the 36 GB to the 74 GB
2) Using gParted, move F partition over to the end of the drive
3) Boot to Windows; it will do check disk automatically
4) Using gParted, resize E partition to fill the empty space between itself and partition F
5) Boot to Windows; it will do check disk automatically
6) Using Windows, copy all data from C and F into E
7) Boot to Windows; it will do check disk automatically
8) Using gParted, delete partitions C and F
9) Boot to Windows; it will do check disk automatically
10) Using gParted, resize partition E to fill the entire volume
11) Boot to Windows; it will do check disk automatically

I think you would be better served scrubbing it and starting fresh however.


So far this Parted Magic is the bomb baby... seriously you guys gotta check it out... Linux based GParted w network support and all kinds of stuff that I have not had enough time to check out yet.

Oh and blitz I tried to Rep+ you earlier if it did not go through well then there will be another one coming here pretty quick. Now I'm happy. I have been wanting to do this for so long now and I'm finally doing it for free. Well I wont count all my chickens till they hatch but I can say this I think I'm more then half way home...







Now I will be able to update to SP
and re-load and play my games where I left off.









Just gotta get out of this firefox now and reboot so that I can see if the moving F Patition to the end of the drive worked before I resize the E drive.

Be back in a few to give an update...


----------



## rammunition

i have a question.

my 939 rig will have a athlon 4000, some msi rs480 mobo, 2gb ram. now since its a a single core, i was wondering if i can chuck in a 8600GT, or will be it bottlenecked?

if so what GPU should i get


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rammunition* 
i have a question.

my 939 rig will have a athlon 4000, some msi rs480 mobo, 2gb ram. now since its a a single core, i was wondering if i can chuck in a 8600GT, or will be it bottlenecked?

if so what GPU should i get

Honestly, I've ran my 8800GT on a single core Venice 3500+ before and it played my games just fine. I personally wouldn't invest TOO much money into a GPU, however anything 8800GT and below should be fine.

Keep in mind, your graphics card can always follow you to a new build later down the road as well







.


----------



## Blitz6804

Thlnk3r: Good call on the software, IMGREP. The coolest feature is that it is HAL independent, meaning I should be able to make an image of one of my computers and use it on either. Despite my Desktop being an AMD Quad core and my laptop being an Intel Dual core, their hard drives have nearly identical sets of data. Well, aside of the laptop missing some programs due to space requirements. Unless I get a 320 GB hard drive for the laptop, that is the way it is going to stay.

TheSubtleKnife: I will add you to the off-site roster later today most likely.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Please welcome our newest member, TheSubtleKnife.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Please welcome our newest member, TheSubtleKnife.










Welcome to the club TheSubtleKnife.


----------



## rammunition

welcome, im going to be joining in a few hours, bought some thermal paste, just need to apply my cpu and post a screeny


----------



## pioneerisloud

I think TheSubtleKnife is just coming in here to crash the party







.

Welcome to our little club TSK







.


----------



## rammunition

am i in


----------



## rammunition

also whats the safe temps of the athlon 4000? on idle im on 47'


----------



## N2Gaming

I would try to reseat the HSF to CPU w/some new TIM after you CLN both HSF & IHS


----------



## rammunition

im using a stock heatsink from a sempron, should be alright, plus i just put some new antec formula 5 on the chip and heatsink


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rammunition*


im using a stock heatsink from a sempron, should be alright, plus i just put some new antec silver 5 on the chip and heatsink


Put it under load for at least 10 minutes, and then let us know the temps







. Honestly, I think you're fine....however I live on the edge with temps.


----------



## rammunition

currentl ran for 3 minutes using ati tool and the CPU is at 49', before starting it was 37' so its doing down, maybe the thermal compound needs to seat properly.

also i can't overclock as the computer is a old HP, meaning the bios is locked







, any good safe windows based overclocking utilities???


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rammunition*


currentl ran for 3 minutes using ati tool and the CPU is at 49', before starting it was 37' so its doing down, maybe the thermal compound needs to seat properly.

also i can't overclock as the computer is a old HP, meaning the bios is locked







, any good safe windows based overclocking utilities???


Hueristic uses a software based OC utility but I can't remember what it is atm...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rammunition*


currentl ran for 3 minutes using ati tool and the CPU is at 49', before starting it was 37' so its doing down, maybe the thermal compound needs to seat properly.

also i can't overclock as the computer is a old HP, meaning the bios is locked







, any good safe windows based overclocking utilities???


Try Orthos, OCCT, or Prime95 with the "Small FFT" tests running instead.

You can TRY ClockGen out for software overclocking. Just make sure to do this when you have nothing to lose. You can EASILY corrupt your windows install using software.


----------



## BlackOmega

Hey Ramm, those temps aren't too bad. And yeah Arctic Silver 5 has a 200 hour cure time that also requires heat cycling, that means turning it off for a bit every now and again.

As for an software overclocking utility Systool is the one Hue likes use, IIRC. Theres also ClockGen.

Welcome and good luck


----------



## thlnk3r

Rammunition, I've added you the roster. Welcome aboard


----------



## rammunition

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hey Ramm, those temps aren't too bad. And yeah Arctic Silver 5 has a 200 hour cure time that also requires heat cycling, that means turning it off for a bit every now and again.

As for an software overclocking utility Systool is the one Hue likes use, IIRC. Theres also ClockGen.

Welcome and good luck










thanks for the sfotware, though im stuck on clockgen with the PLL settings. my 939 mobo is a MSI RS480M2 and cant find anything on google


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*











SHWeeT, Sounds like your all set now! Boot disks rock, I couldn't live without um. I'll have to check that out my bartpe doesn't have copy/paste/merge partitions on it I use PM boot disks for that(and i don't think it has merge...i ferget







).


I just remembered why I set up the drive w even sets of 10G partitions. Originally I was going to try to set up a tri boot system w 98,2k pro & xp pro x64. Any way that was then and this is now.

So far I have not been so lucky w/my attempts using this Parted Magic software. I still think it is one heck of an awesome tool worth looking into. I have tried all kinds of things. I don't think this Gparted has a merge tool either. Every time I try to copy and past using Gparted I end up wiping out the data that was there before the new paste. I almost had it. I mean I had my whole 74 gig raptor set up w/one partition w/all the files coppied from the 36G raptor but windows would only boot to the blue xp screen that says windows xp and it would hang there and not give me the log on screen. Arg.

Here is how the 36g raptor is set up.

A = Floppy Disk Drive
C = Primary Partition & Boot 
D = CD/DVD-Rom
E = Windows folder and is part of the logical Extended partion
F = Other files and is part of the logical Extended partion

The problem I was having was when I transfered all the files from E over to C the boot file was incorrect becuase it was use to having windows on partition # 2 so I changed it to Patition 0 and that did not work. I guess that Windows has to boot from a partition number other then 0. So I set the boot windows partition to 1 and it seemed as if it was all good but that is when it hung on the blue windows xp screen.

That was the update I promissed. Now if I can only beat the system instead of the system beating me.


----------



## rammunition

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Rammunition, I've added you the roster. Welcome aboard










thanks dude


----------



## BlackOmega

Ramm, Im not sure what the PLL settings do to tell you honestly as I never use software to OC, only BIOS. I believe it has something to do with the RAM if I'm not mistaken. But what exactly, no idea.

Im sure Hueristic will be able to help you out when he shows up, or finds his KB that he's constantly losing









Good Luck.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rammunition*


thanks for the sfotware, though im stuck on clockgen with the PLL settings. my 939 mobo is a MSI RS480M2 and cant find anything on google










Rammunition, is this PLL listed (*ICS951412*)? This should be the one for the RS480M2.

Good luck


----------



## rammunition

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Rammunition, is this PLL listed (*ICS951412*)? This should be the one for the RS480M2.

Good luck









yes, thanks, will do some overcloking and post screeny's, though i also found a software called msi core center, i thinks its for the CPU


----------



## rammunition

here is a overclock screeny










everything seem ok??

i tried pushing the PLL control level thing one higher on clockgen to 2.7ghz and the screen went all pink with stripes. i had to swtich my computer off via mains


----------



## thlnk3r

Rammunition, your PCI-E clock speed seems a little high. Are you able to lock that down so that it stays around 100mhz? For S939, you might run into stability issues with an HT (hypertransport) speed above 1100Mhz. I always like to keep mine at or below 1000mhz. However there have been exceptions where I've seen it above 1100mhz. There is hardly any benefit though...

Good luck


----------



## pioneerisloud

The reason why your screen went all funny is because you are overclocking your PCI and PCIe lanes as well. That's why software overclocking is generally a no go....you NEVER want to overclock the PCI and PCIe lanes. However, there is no way (I can see) that you'll damage anything where you've got it in those screenshots. Run some stability tests and make sure....but those settings look fine to me.


----------



## rammunition

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Rammunition, your PCI-E clock speed seems a little high. Are you able to lock that down so that it stays around 100mhz? For S939, you might run into stability issues with an HT (hypertransport) speed above 1100Mhz. I always like to keep mine at or below 1000mhz. However there have been exceptions where I've seen it above 1100mhz. There is hardly any benefit though...

Good luck









when i change the PLL control down so the PCI-E is 100, the CPU is then 2.4, meaning its back on stock.

also i don't have a GPU........yet. im using onboard graphics, so it shouldn't be a problem?


----------



## rammunition

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
The reason why your screen went all funny is because you are overclocking your PCI and PCIe lanes as well. That's why software overclocking is generally a no go....you NEVER want to overclock the PCI and PCIe lanes. However, there is no way (I can see) that you'll damage anything where you've got it in those screenshots. Run some stability tests and make sure....but those settings look fine to me.

what sort of software should i run?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rammunition*


what sort of software should i run?


Rammunition, if you're referring to what "stability" tests to run then I would recommend either OCCT or Orthos. I typically like to start off with OCCT and the 1 Hour test. If I feel that I have a solid OC set then I'll finish my testing with Orthos (Blend at Priority 9) for 24 Hrs.

Simply put though I always advise users to avoid software overclocking. Without not being able to lock the PCI-E and PCI lanes then you risk damaging your OS and possibly even damaging your hardware. You could a however try a BIOS from the MSI website for your board. That is a bit risky though seeming your current has a propitiatory bios from HP.

Good luck


----------



## Hueristic

TheSubtleKnife









Quote:



Originally Posted by *rammunition*


am i in




















Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Put it under load for at least 10 minutes, and then let us know the temps







. Honestly, I think you're fine....however I live on the edge with temps.

































Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


As for an software overclocking utility Systool is the one Hue likes use, [/url].:



















Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


That was the update I promissed. Now if I can only beat the system instead of the system beating me.
















































Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Im sure Hueristic will be able to help you out when he shows up, *or finds his KB that he's constantly losing*









































Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Rammunition, is this PLL listed (*ICS951412*)? This should be the one for the RS480M2.








































Quote:



Originally Posted by *rammunition*


what sort of software should i run?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


As for an software overclocking utility Systool is the one Hue likes use, [/url].:


----------



## TheSubtleKnife

^^^ And i thought hueristic's smiley spam was bad in the [email protected] trheads =P XD


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


TheSubtleKnife


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*








































I did not think any one was paying any attention to my post's.


----------



## Blitz6804

Guys, here and there a few smilies are okay, but when it gets to this level it starts impinging on the professionalism that OCN (and this thread generally) strives for. Perhaps we can dial them back in future?


----------



## BlackOmega

LAWL! the last time we did that it got edited out.









But in regards to OCing the PCIe lane, I've found that OCing it 5MHz per card seems to work just fine. ANything more than that stability goes away. And I actually did notice an improvement in framerates, especially in games like crysis. While it wasnt an astronomical amount, it was noticable something along the lines of 3fps in Crysis. Considering I was getting only 15, thats a fairly decent improvement, ~20%. (this was with the GSO btw







).

EDIT:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Guys, here and there a few smilies are okay, but when it gets to this level it starts impinging on the professionalism that OCN (and this thread generally) strives for. Perhaps we can dial them back in future?

ITs more so this thread than OCN Blitz. I was reading the "Dont upgrade your CPU" thread last night and was literally shocked at what the people were writing on there. What a lot of the people said in response was totally uncalled for, rude and downright mean. Totally unacceptable, IMO. I had to report someone for the comment they left. I've only ever done that once before, and that was because of racism.
I'm a pretty easy going guy and not too much bothers me, but that thread was unacceptable.


----------



## TheSubtleKnife

lol, i just found this on my photobucket...Opty 144 that i cracked the die on...then hit with a hammer


----------



## Blitz6804

I hate seeing good tech destroyed.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I hate seeing good tech destroyed.


*That* was my thought exactly! But I didn't have a keyboard handy at the time!


----------



## simfreak47

That makes me want to cry









RIP good old AMD CPU!


----------



## Blitz6804

It obviously would not work anymore (since he admitted he cracked the die) but I wonder how that happened. Drop a heatsink on it?


----------



## N2Gaming

UPS just Dropped off my Brand New FoxConn Destroyer.





















and a killa watt.

Now I'm gonna be pretty bussy trying to set this thing up. Well better make that reading the user manual so that I know how to properly set it up. man this thing comes w/a lot of accessories. I have a 20k and a 50k variable set of resistors that I don't even know what they are for yet. Hence the reason for reading up on the user manual. It comes w a sli, 3 way sli & a 3 way sli w option for a physics card. So far this thing looks like it's gonna be the shiznit. I hope there is nothing wrong w/it and every thing works out w/this one. Now My extra x2 5400+ cpu will come in handy for setting up this new Destroyer. Heck it even comes w a clear plastic mobo tray for setup out side of the chassis and also a 120 mm clear fan for the GPU's


----------



## BlackOmega

Its always a good idea to read the manual.







ITs so funny, my wife reads the manual as the last resort. I usually read it first, hows that for being backasswards.









And well I just bought Sims CPU & RAM, guess I might as well set up a 3rd rig







. I wonder how more PPD a dual core gets over a single core? As it sits my 3500+ @ 2.2 gets a measly ~200. And really my GSO is not getting what it "should" only around 3000 PPD. I hear people getting 4-5k how is that possible?


----------



## Blitz6804

A dual core CPU will not produce any more PPD than a single core by default. The advantage of having a dual core is that you can run two instances of CPU folding, or if you have dedication, run one instance of SMP folding. Each core runs two instances of the program using 50% of the core each. (On a quad core, each core will run only one 100% usage.) I swear sometimes when I am SMP folding on my laptop I think it will catch fire though.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Its always a good idea to read the manual.







ITs so funny, my wife reads the manual as the last resort. I usually read it first, hows that for being backasswards.









I use to try to do things w/out reading the manual first. I learned my lesson after ruining a few things because of not following the proper proceedures listed in the manuals. That's why I was so anal about my fuel pump in the mustang. That and I wanted to buy the right part the first time and not have to haggle w/the store manager as to why he/she should give me a refund for a part that I don't need.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Its always a good idea to read the manual.







ITs so funny, my wife reads the manual as the last resort. I usually read it first, hows that for being backasswards.









And well I just bought Sims CPU & RAM, guess I might as well set up a 3rd rig







. I wonder how more PPD a dual core gets over a single core? As it sits my 3500+ @ 2.2 gets a measly ~200. And really my GSO is not getting what it "should" only around 3000 PPD. I hear people getting 4-5k how is that possible?

Put this question in the [email protected] area and I'll give you all my info for you to compare. Is too long to start in this thread.

When all else fails, RTFM!


----------



## elusiv1

What's up guys, how's everbody doing?? I'm trying to figure out where I can find a good overclocking board for my Opty 180 if there are still any socket 939 boards still around, I know they are very hard to find.. I built this computer around 3 years ago so I figured I'd dump the crappy A8N SLI Deluxe board and have a little fun with Opty..


----------



## Blitz6804

I usually read the whole manual online cover-to-cover while waiting on delivery of an ordered part.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I usually read the whole manual online cover-to-cover while waiting on delivery of an ordered part.

I usually just read Blitz's mind.









(A very scary place, I tells you...)


----------



## Hueristic

I used to go through Tech so fast I had to read manuals instead of the paper while on the throne!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I usually just read Blitz's mind.









(A very scary place, I tells you...)










rolf, no offense blitz


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *elusiv1* 
What's up guys, how's everbody doing?? I'm trying to figure out where I can find a good overclocking board for my Opty 180 if there are still any socket 939 boards still around, I know they are very hard to find.. I built this computer around 3 years ago so I figured I'd dump the crappy A8N SLI Deluxe board and have a little fun with Opty..

Hey elusive.







Boards can still be found here and there. Theres still a lot of them available on ebay. Some are still going for the same price as they did when they were new.
Out of curiosity whats the stepping on your opty?

EDIT:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
A dual core CPU will not produce any more PPD than a single core by default. The advantage of having a dual core is that you can run two instances of CPU folding, or if you have dedication, run one instance of SMP folding. Each core runs 2 instances of the program using 50% of the core. (On a quad core, each core will run only one 100% usage.) I swear sometimes when I am SMP folding on my laptop I think it will catch fire though.

Well thats odd because when I fold my CPU is @ 100% all the time. THe folding on it is horribly slow though. 1 WU every 2-3 DAYS!!!


----------



## Blitz6804

I fixed a typo; if you fix in your quote, that would be wonderful.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *blitz6804*   I fixed a typo; if you fix in your quote, that would be wonderful.


----------



## elusiv1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hey elusive.








Boards can still be found here and there. Theres still a lot of them available on ebay. Some are still going for the same price as they did when they were new.
Out of curiosity whats the stepping on your opty?

EDIT:

Well thats odd because when I fold my CPU is @ 100% all the time. THe folding on it is horribly slow though. 1 WU every 2-3 DAYS!!!










Hi BlackOmega, thanks the reply and thanks for your help.. I was looking on my original box and found the numbers JH9-E6, I guess that's the stepping right?? Cpu-z has the stepping as 2 and the revision as JH9-E6..Thanks again


----------



## Blitz6804

That is the revision. In order to find the stepping, you would need to remove the heatsink. To borrow my deceased Toledo:










The stepping would be LCBIE. It was manufactured the 38th week of 2006. The bin is DPMW. The model number is ADV4400DAA6CD.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *elusiv1*


Hi BlackOmega, thanks the reply and thanks for your help.. I was looking on my original box and found the numbers JH9-E6, I guess that's the stepping right?? Cpu-z has the stepping as 2 and the revision as JH9-E6..Thanks again



ACtually the stepping is on the IHS itself. As far as I know thats the only place to find it. Like the stepping on my opty 180 is LCB9E, the stepping on my 3500+ is NBBWE, and the stepping on on my opty 165 was CCBBE I believe.
But no matter, they OC pretty well from what I have seen. I can get mine to roughly 3.1 GHz but the temps are so astronomical that I dont dare load it.
@ 2.9 I can run it on stock voltage and it stays nice and cool.








I never let the coretemp go above 65*C. Maybe when my warranty is up I'll lap or delid it.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Put this question in the [email protected] area and I'll give you all my info for you to compare. Is too long to start in this thread.


 OK Hue I made a new thread.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


OK Hue I made a new thread.










K on it now


----------



## elusiv1

Thanks again guys, I was going to take the heatsink off anyways and apply a fresh coat of AS5 probably tomorrow so I'll get back with you guys on the stepping.. Thanks again


----------



## Blitz6804

I know not how many people here follow my build thread other than HothBase and Thlnk3r. I thought I would share that I just purchased some OCZ Freeze Extreme and I will let you all know my impressions of it versus Arctic Silver 5 once I get it installed.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I know not how many people here follow my build thread other than HothBase and Thlnk3r. I thought I would share that I just purchased some OCZ Freeze Extreme and I will let you all know my impressions of it versus Arctic Silver 5 once I get it installed.



I'm sure you'll be pleasantly surprised. I know I was very happy with ICD7, and it also doubles as a polish


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I know not how many people here follow my build thread other than HothBase and Thlnk3r. I thought I would share that I just purchased some OCZ Freeze Extreme and I will let you all know my impressions of it versus Arctic Silver 5 once I get it installed.










Linky?


----------



## Blitz6804

It is in my sig. For those who requested it though, you can click this to pull up Dragonier.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
It is in my sig. For those who requested it though, you can click this to pull up Dragonier.

Thx, subbed will read when I wake up.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
It is in my sig. For those who requested it though, you can click this to pull up Dragonier.

I was following it. Just sub'd last night before finishing for the night.

I still can't get all the partitions to merge w/out windows locking me out. I can however use Parted Magic to resize and move the partitions. I will be able to update to SP2 by resizing and moving them . This computer runs so nice now I really don't know if I want SP2 any way. Can any one tell me whly I really need SP2 for xp x64. I guess you can say the system gave me a real smack down







after almost 24 hours of battle I just decided to throw in the towel.









Thank you,

N2G


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Can any one tell me why I really need SP2 for xp x64.


N2Gaming, SP2 patches a lot of security vulnerabilities. I probably wouldn't even go on the internet without it. Especially KB958644 which I'm sure all of you are aware of from a few weeks ago.

What are the reasons again on why you aren't wanting to install SP2? Are you running into install issues or the fact that it's just slowing down your computer?

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, SP2 patches a lot of security vulnerabilities. I probably wouldn't even go on the internet without it. Especially KB958644 which I'm sure all of you are aware of from a few weeks ago.

What are the reasons again on why you aren't wanting to install SP2? Are you running into install issues or the fact that it's just slowing down your computer?

Good luck


Thanks thlnk3r, So far the system is as fast as it was the day I built it. well maybe a little faster thanks to a modest 200 Mhz oc. I don't have that KB958644 but I think I can install that seperately. I'm just afraid that SP2 may do something to slow my system down or render some functionality useless or other wise be a big PITA if I end up w/SP2 incompatabilities. I know it's not likely but hey :turd: happens right.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Thanks thlnk3r, So far the system is as fast as it was the day I built it. well maybe a little faster thanks to a modest 200 Mhz oc. I don't have that KB958644 but I think I can install that seperately. I'm just afraid that SP2 may do something to slow my system down or render some functionality useless or other wise be a big PITA if I end up w/SP2 incompatabilities. I know it's not likely but hey :turd: happens right.









N2Gaming, perhaps this information will help aid in your decision: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Windows_XP#Service_Pack_2.

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

N2, SP2 and SP3 dont really slow too much down. Maybe initial load up time but thats about it. Also, if you do all the desktop tweaks you shouldnt have any issues with speed. But as fast as CPUs' are today theres really no point in disabling some of the stuff. Even my single core @ stock blazes along pretty nicely even while folding. Strangely, it actually seems to be more responsive than my dual cores while folding @ 100%


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
N2, SP2 and SP3 dont really slow too much down. Maybe initial load up time but thats about it. Also, if you do all the desktop tweaks you shouldnt have any issues with speed. But as fast as CPUs' are today theres really no point in disabling some of the stuff. Even my single core @ stock blazes along pretty nicely even while folding. Strangely, it actually seems to be more responsive than my dual cores while folding @ 100%









thanks. what kind of desktop tweeks are you refering to. I don't know a whole lot so I probably don't have any tweeks unless you mean backround image etc...

I still love this little 3500+ for normal useage. It was and still is the quickest single core cpu I ever owned. Not to mention I can have 30 browser windows open and the system does not skip a beat nor slow down.


----------



## Blitz6804

In my experience, SP2 and SP3 both slightly sped up XP's normal operation even it they made boot time a little longer. Boot time is still NOTHING like Vista. My Barton with XP can boot in half the time of my Deneb with Vista x64 or my Merom with Vista x32 or x64. With XP 64-bit, SP3 does not exist; but SP2 does.


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks, I will look into the thread thlnk3r post more later. I'm hacking my case ATM for a 12v psu 8 pin cpu plug... Hopefully I will get some pics in the BNBB thread later on today or tomorrow. Well sometime this weekend


----------



## simfreak47

Guys, kinda drifting away from s939... BUT

what do you guys think of the new parts that I'm ordering soon? (sig rig)


----------



## FnkDctr

Quote:


Originally Posted by *simfreak47* 
Guys, kinda drifting away from s939... BUT

what do you guys think of the new parts that I'm ordering soon? (sig rig)

CPU
Athlon 64 X2 5200+ Motherboard
ASUS M3N78-VM Memory
2GB Crucial DDR2 800 Graphics Card
XFX GeForce 7900GS
Hard Drive
320GB Western Digital Sound Card
onboard Case
HP mATX
OS
XP MCE 2k5 Monitor
20" Acer AL2002W

Well I am unsure of your previous machine, but this isnt much if any improvement.

I can overclock my +4800 from 2.4 to 2.75ghz-2.85ghz stable all day. Im sure thats above the stock performance of the +5200.

Only 2gb of ddr2 which is already on the way out. Id atleast get 4gb.

I just dont see much if any improvement in this machine, and the main reason I wouldnt upgrade, is your future with this machine. You won't be able to upgrade it enough to compete with modern systems. You are trading in an outdated socket for another outdated socket that you will probably be bored with in less than a year...

I would save my money for a more serious cpu and motherboard.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I was following it. Just sub'd last night before finishing for the night.

Me 2, and Thinkr is right, You reallyMUST have SP2 for XP64

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I don't know a whole lot so I probably don't have any tweeks

Well here's a list that will keep you busy for awhile
















Code:



Code:


Windows Registry Editor Version 5.00

;===================================================
; \\\\\\\\\\\\\\  Disabled Services   //////////////
;===================================================

;----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
; Indexing Service

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESYSTEMCurrentControlSetServicesCiSvc]
"Start"=dword:00000004

;----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
; Error Reporting

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESYSTEMCurrentControlSetServicesERSvc]
"Start"=dword:00000004

;----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
; Remote Registry

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESYSTEMCurrentControlSetServicesRemoteRegistry]
"Start"=dword:00000004

;----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
; Routing and Remote Access

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESYSTEMCurrentControlSetServicesRemoteAccess]
"Start"=dword:00000004

;----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
; Telnet

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESYSTEMCurrentControlSetServicesTlntSvr]
"Start"=dword:00000004

;--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

;=====================================================
; \\\\\\\\\\\\\\   System Performance   //////////////
;=====================================================

;--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Speed up opening of My Computer and Explorer

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionExplorerAdvanced]
"NoNetCrawling"=dword:00000001

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionPoliciesExplorer]
"NoRemoteRecursiveEvents"=dword:00000001

;--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Show Run in Separate Memory Space Option to run 16 bit programs in VDM
;(00000000 = disabled, 00000001 = enabled)

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionPoliciesExplorer]
"MemCheckBoxInRunDlg"=dword:00000001

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionPoliciesExplorer]
"MemCheckBoxInRunDlg"=dword:00000001

;--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Opens 16-bit apps in a separate memory space
;This increases stability when dealing with 16-bit apps.
;(No = disabled, Yes = enabled)

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESYSTEMCurrentControlSetControlWOW]
"DefaultSeparateVDM"="Yes"

;--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

;======================================================
; \\\\\\\\\\\\\\   General Customation   //////////////
;======================================================

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Allow renaming and removing of Recycle Bin

[HKEY_CLASSES_ROOTCLSID{645FF040-5081-101B-9F08-00AA002F954E}ShellFolder]
"Attributes"=hex:70,10,00,20
"CallForAttributes"=dword:00000040

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Disable Baloon Tips
;(00000000 = disabled, 00000001 = enabled)

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionExplorerAdvanced]
"EnableBalloonTips"=dword:00000000

;--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Shortcuts without "Shortcut to..."

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionExplorer]
"link"=hex:00,00,00,00

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

;===================================================
; \\\\\\\\\\\\\\   General settings   //////////////
;===================================================

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Disable Tracking of Broken Shortcut Links

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionPoliciesExplorer]
"NoResolveTrack"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Disable Sticky Keys (Popups up when pressing shift for some time, accessibility)

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERControl PanelAccessibilityStickyKeys]
"Flags"="506"

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Disable Filter keys (Popups up when pressing shift for some time, accessibility)

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERControl PanelAccessibilityKeyboard Response]
"Flags"="122"

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Disable Toggle Keys (Popups up when pressing shift for some time, accessibility)

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERControl PanelAccessibilityToggleKeys]
"Flags"="58"

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Windows will tell you exactly what it is doing when it is shutting down or is booting

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionpoliciessystem]
"verbosestatus"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Disables Error Reporting, but notifies when critical errors occur

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREMicrosoftPCHealthErrorReporting]
"DoReport"=dword:00000000

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Change Default Search Options (1 = ON, 0 = OFF)

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionExplorer]
"SearchSystemDirs"=dword:00000001
"SearchHidden"=dword:00000001
"IncludeSubFolders"=dword:00000001
"CaseSensitive"=dword:00000000
"SearchSlowFiles"=dword:00000000

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Enable Classic Search

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionExplorerCabinetState]
"FullPath"=dword:00000001
"FullPathAddress"=dword:00000001
"Use Search Asst"="Yes"
"Settings"=hex:0c,00,02,00,1b,01,e7,77,60,00,00,00

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Disable "Search Dog" and use advanced search

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftSearch Assistant]
"Actor"=""
"SocialUI"=dword:00000000
"UsageCount"=dword:00000000
"UseAdvancedSearchAlways"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Search All File Types

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESYSTEMCurrentControlSetControlContentIndex]
"FilterFilesWithUnknownExtensions"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Typing Long File Names In DOS

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREMicrosoftCommand Processor]
"CompletionChar"=dword:00000009

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Show Detailed Info in Device Manager

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESYSTEMCurrentControlSetControlSession ManagerEnvironment]
"DEVMGR_SHOW_DETAILS"=dword:00000001
"DEVMGR_SHOW_NONPRESENT_DEVICES"="1"

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Places shortcut to Scanner or Camera on your desktop when you connect it with the USB cable

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionExplorerDesktopNameSpaceDelegateFolders{E211B736-43FD-11D1-9EFB-0000F8757FCD}]
@="Scanners & Cameras"

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Disable Windows File Protection

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREMicrosoftWindows NTCurrentVersionWinlogon]
"SFCSetting"=dword:ffffff9d
"SFCDisable"=dword:ffffff9d

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Disable Built in Windows CD Burning

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionPoliciesExplorer]
"NoCDBurning"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Make the Windows XP registration with Microsoft unnecessary

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESoftwareMicrosoftWindows NTCurrentVersion]
"RegDone"="1"

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Adds Userpasswords2 to control panel

[HKEY_CLASSES_ROOTCLSID{98641F47-8C25-4936-BEE4-C2CE1298969D}]
@="User Passwords"
"InfoTip"="Starts The Windows 2000 style User Accounts dialog"
[HKEY_CLASSES_ROOTCLSID{98641F47-8C25-4936-BEE4-C2CE1298969D}DefaultIcon]
@="%SystemRoot%\\\\System32\\\
usrmgr.cpl,1"
[HKEY_CLASSES_ROOTCLSID{98641F47-8C25-4936-BEE4-C2CE1298969D}Shell]
[HKEY_CLASSES_ROOTCLSID{98641F47-8C25-4936-BEE4-C2CE1298969D}ShellOpen]
[HKEY_CLASSES_ROOTCLSID{98641F47-8C25-4936-BEE4-C2CE1298969D}ShellOpencommand]
@="Control Userpasswords2"
[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionExplorerControlPanelNameSpace{98641F47-8C25-4936-BEE4-C2CE1298969D}]
@="Add Userpasswords2 to Control Panel"

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Recycle Bin Uses 3% of Available Space Rather than 10%

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionExplorerBitBucket]
"Percent"=dword:00000003

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

;===========================================================
; \\\\\\\\\\\\\\   Folder view and Taskbar    //////////////
;===========================================================

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Remove Scheduled Tasks from My Computer

[-HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionExplorerMyComputerNameSpace{D6277990-4C6A-11CF-8D87-00AA0060F5BF}]

[-HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionExplorerRemoteComputerNameSpace{D6277990-4C6A-11CF-8D87-00AA0060F5BF}]

[-HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionShell ExtensionsApproved{D6277990-4C6A-11CF-8D87-00AA0060F5BF}]

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Remove Shared Documents from My Computer

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionPoliciesExplorer]
"NoSharedDocuments"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Disable Active Desktop

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionPoliciesExplorer]
"NoActiveDesktop"=dword:00000001

;--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Disable all Balloon Tips

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionExplorerAdvanced]
"EnableBalloonTips"=dword:00000000
"FolderContentsInfoTip"=dword:00000000
"ShowInfoTip"=dword:00000000
"StartButtonBalloonTip"=dword:00000000
"NoSMBalloonTip"=dword:00000000

;--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Wrap Icon Titles

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERControl PanelDesktopWindowMetrics]
"IconTitleWrap"="1"

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Don't Group Similar Taskbar Buttons

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionExplorerAdvanced]
"TaskbarGlomming"=dword:00000000
[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionExplorerAdvanced]
"TaskbarGlomming"=dword:00000000

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Disable Automatic Hiding of Inactive Tray Icons

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionExplorer]
"EnableAutoTray"=dword:00000000

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Stop Applcations from stealing the focus with pop ups

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERControl Paneldesktop]
"ForegroundLockTimeout"=dword:00030d40
"ForegroundFlashCount"=dword:00000003

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Unlock taskbar

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionExplorerAdvanced]
"TaskbarSizeMove"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Control Panel Classic View

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionPoliciesExplorer]
"ForceClassicControlPanel"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Details View for Explorer

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionExplorerStreams]
"Settings"=hex:09,00,00,00,04,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,77,7e,13,73,35,cf,11,ae,
  69,08,00,2b,2e,12,62,04,00,00,00,06,00,00,00,43,00,00,00

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionExplorerStreamsDefaults]
"{20D04FE0-3AEA-1069-A2D8-08002B30309D}"=hex:1c,00,00,00,03,00,00,00,00,00,00,
  00,00,00,9a,00,00,00,00,00,01,00,00,00,ff,ff,ff,ff,f0,f0,f0,f0,14,00,03,00,
  9a,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,30,00,00,00,fd,df,df,fd,0f,00,05,00,24,00,10,00,2e,
  00,46,00,00,00,00,00,01,00,00,00,02,00,00,00,03,00,00,00,04,00,00,00,78,00,
  96,00,60,00,60,00,78,00,00,00,00,00,01,00,00,00,02,00,00,00,03,00,00,00,05,
  00,00,00,ff,ff,ff,ff,cf,f3,a8,b0,33,43,ab,4b,88,73,1c,cb,1c,ad,a4,8b,30,f1,
  25,b7,ef,47,1a,10,a5,f1,02,60,8c,9e,eb,ac,04,00,00,00
"{F3364BA0-65B9-11CE-A9BA-00AA004AE837}"=hex:1c,00,00,00,04,00,00,00,00,00,00,
  00,00,00,9a,00,00,00,00,00,01,00,00,00,ff,ff,ff,ff,f0,f0,f0,f0,14,00,03,00,
  9a,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,30,00,00,00,fd,df,df,fd,0f,00,05,00,24,00,10,00,2e,
  00,46,00,00,00,00,00,01,00,00,00,02,00,00,00,03,00,00,00,04,00,00,00,b4,00,
  60,00,78,00,78,00,3c,00,00,00,00,00,01,00,00,00,02,00,00,00,03,00,00,00,06,
  00,00,00,ff,ff,ff,ff,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,
  00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Display drive letters
;0 = windows default
;1 = only network drive's letters shown.
;2 = no drive letters shown
;4 = all drive letters shown

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionExplorer]
"ShowDriveLettersFirst"=dword:00000004

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Show file extensions

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionExplorerAdvanced]
"HideFileExt"=dword:00000000

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Show protected operating system files

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionExplorerAdvancedFolderSuperHidden]
"DefaultValue"=dword:00000000
 [HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionExplorerAdvanced]
"ShowSuperHidden"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Show Hidden Files and Folders

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionExplorerAdvanced]
"Hidden"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Display contents of system folders and protected folders

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionExplorerAdvanced]
"WebViewBarricade"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Show Windows classic folders

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionExplorerVisualEffectsWebView]
"DefaultValue"=dword:00000000

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Cache more Icons

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionExplorer]
"Max Cached Icons"="4096"

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Display High Color Icons
;4 - 16 colors
;8 - 256 colors
;16 - 65536 colors
;24 - 16.7 million colors

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERControl PanelDesktopWindowMetrics]
"Shell Icon BPP"="24"

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Improve Thumbnail Quality

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionExplorer]
"ThumbnailQuality"=dword:00000064

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

;======================================================
; \\\\\\\\\\\\\\   Start menu & Taskbar  //////////////
;======================================================

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Start menu Items: Hide/Show/Cascade.
;dword:00000000= Don't display 
;dword:00000001= Display as a link (Default)
;dword:00000002= Display as a menu (Cascade)

;Favorites

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionPoliciesExplorer]
"StartMenuFavorites"=dword:00000000

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;My Computer

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionPoliciesExplorer]
"Start_ShowMyComputer"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Search Command

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionPoliciesExplorer]
"Start_ShowSearch"=dword:00000000

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;No Recent Docsmenu removes the recent documents from the start menu.

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionPoliciesExplorer]
"NoRecentDocsMenu"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Change MenuShowDelay (Start Menu load speed)

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERControl PanelDesktop]
"MenuShowDelay"="8"

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Remove "set programs access default" from startmenu

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionPoliciesExplorer]
"NoSMConfigurePrograms"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Administrative Tools in your Start Menu

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionExplorerAdvanced]
"Start_AdminToolsRoot"=dword:00000000

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

;====================================================
; \\\\\\\\\\\\\\   Internet Explorer   //////////////
;====================================================

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Max your Internet Explorer's simultaneous downloads to 50 (default was 2)

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionInternet Settings]
"MaxConnectionsPerServer"=dword:00000032

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Add Google As Main/default Search Page

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftInternet ExplorerMain]
"Use Search Asst"="no"
"Search Page"="http://www.google.com"
"Search Bar"="http://www.google.com/ie_rsearch.html"

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftInternet ExplorerSearchURL]
@="http://www.google.com/keyword/%s"
"provider"="gogl"

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREMicrosoftInternet ExplorerSearch]
"SearchAssistant"="http://www.google.com/ie_rsearch.html"

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Disable Internet Explorer "Send information to the Internet" prompt

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionInternet SettingsZones3]
"1601"=dword:00000000

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Disable Internet Explorer Auto-Complete prompt

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftInternet ExplorerIntelliForms]
"AskUser"=dword:00000000

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Disable Internet Explorer Cookie "Privacy Icon" prompt

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionInternet Settings]
"PrivDiscUiShown"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Disable persistent internet caching

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionInternet SettingsCache]
"Persistent"=hex:00,00,00,00
"FreshnessInterval"=hex:80,f4,03,00
"CleanupFactor"=hex:19,00,00,00
"CleanupTime"=hex:00,00,00,00
"CleanupInterval"=hex:80,51,01,00
"DebugFlag"=hex:ff,ff,00,00

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;skips the Internet Connection Wizard (which comes the first time you start IE)

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftInternet Connection Wizard]
"Completed"=hex:01,00,00,00
"DesktopChanged"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Show Statusbar in all windows

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftInternet ExplorerMain]
"StatusBarOther"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Always expand ALT text for images

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftInternet ExplorerMain]
"Expand Alt Text"="yes"

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Automatically check for internet updates - disabled

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftInternet ExplorerMain]
"NoUpdateCheck"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Disable script debugging in applications using IE

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftInternet ExplorerMain]
"DisableScriptDebuggerIE"="yes"

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Disable script debugging in IE

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftInternet ExplorerMain]
"Disable Script Debugger"="yes"

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Do not display a notification about every script error

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftInternet ExplorerMain]
"Error Dlg Displayed On Every Error"="no"

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Enable page transitions

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftInternet ExplorerMain]
"Page_Transitions"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Enable personalized favourites menu

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftInternet ExplorerMain]
"FavIntelliMenus"="NO"

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Enable third party browser extensions

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftInternet ExplorerMain]
"Enable Browser Extensions"="yes"

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Enable visual styles on buttons and controls in web pages

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftInternet ExplorerMain]
"UseThemes"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Force offscreen compositing even under terminal server

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftInternet ExplorerMain]
"Force Offscreen Composition"=dword:00000000

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Notify when add-ons disabled

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftInternet ExplorerMain]
"NotifyControlDisable"="yes"

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Do not notify when downloads complete

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftInternet ExplorerMain]
"NotifyDownloadComplete"="no"

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Do not reuse windows for launching shortcuts

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftInternet ExplorerMain]
"AllowWindowReuse"=dword:00000000

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Show friendly HTTP error messages

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftInternet ExplorerMain]
"Friendly http errors"="yes"

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Show GO button in address bar

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftInternet ExplorerMain]
"ShowGoButton"="yes"

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Underline links

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftInternet ExplorerMain]
"Anchor Underline"="yes"

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Use Smooth Scrolling

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftInternet ExplorerMain]
"SmoothScroll"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Display java applets blocked dialog

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftInternet ExplorerMain]
"DisplayJavaHardeningDlg"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Enable automatic image resizing

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftInternet ExplorerMain]
"Enable AutoImageResize"="yes"

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Enable image toolbar

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftInternet ExplorerMain]
"Enable_MyPics_Hoverbar"="yes"

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
; Show image download placeholders

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftInternet ExplorerMain]
"Show image placeholders"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Show pictures

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftInternet ExplorerMain]
"Display Inline Images"="yes"

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Advanced tab settings (set for fast-browsing)

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftInternet ExplorerMain]
"Show_ChannelBand"="No"
"Cache_Update_Frequency"="Once_Per_Session"
"Show_StatusBar"="yes"
"Show_ToolBar"="yes"
"Show_URLinStatusBar"="yes"
"Show_URLToolBar"="yes"
"Start Page"="about:blank"
"Use_DlgBox_Colors"="yes"
"FullScreen"="no"
"Show_FullURL"="no"
"ShowedCheckBrowser"="Yes"
"Check_Associations"="No"

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Use http 1.1

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionInternet Settings]
"EnableHttp1_1"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Use http 1.1 through proxy settings

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionInternet Settings]
"ProxyHttp1.1"=dword:00000000

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;check for server certificate revocation

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionInternet Settings]
"CertificateRevocation"=dword:00000000

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Do not save encrypted pages to disk

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionInternet Settings]
"DisableCachingOfSSLPages"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Enable integrated windows authentication

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionInternet Settings]
"EnableNegotiate"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Use SSL 2.0 (Checked) + SSL 3.0 (Checked) + TSL 1.0 (unchecked)

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionInternet Settings]
"SecureProtocols"=dword:00000028

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Warn about invalid site certificates

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionInternet Settings]
"WarnonBadCertRecving"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Warn if changing between secure and insecure mode

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionInternet Settings]
"WarnonZoneCrossing"=dword:00000000

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Always send URL as UTF-8

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionInternet Settings]
"URLEncoding"=dword:00000000

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;disable FTP folder view (for faster browsing)

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftFtp]
"Use Web Based FTP"="yes"

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Use passive FTP (for firewall and DSL modem compatibility, and for compatibility with older FTP servers)

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftFtp]
"Use PASV"="yes"

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Show friendly/Full URL

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftInternet Explorer]
"Show_FullURL"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Smart image dithering

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftInternet Explorer]
"SmartDithering"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Enable offline items to be synchronized on a schedule

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionWebcheck]
"NoScheduledUpdates"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Check for publisher's certificate revocation

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionWinTrustTrust ProvidersSoftware Publishing]
"State"=dword:00023c00

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Prevent IE from popping-up "this page requires these components to display correctly" for MS and 3rd party apps

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREPoliciesMicrosoftInternet ExplorerInfodeliveryRestrictions]
"NoJITSetup"=dword:00000001
"NoWebJITSetup"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Makes the Always ask before opening this type of file check box on the on the Safe Open File dialog
;box unavailable so that it is always selected.

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESoftwarePoliciesMicrosoftInternet ExplorerRestrictions]
"AlwaysPromptWhenDownload"=dword:00000001

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwarePoliciesMicrosoftInternet ExplorerRestrictions]
"AlwaysPromptWhenDownload"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Dis-allow spying by web-sites

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionInternet SettingsZoneMapProtocolDefaults]
"about"=dword:00000004

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;IE toolbar layout (small icons, no text)

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftInternet ExplorerToolbar]
"ShowDiscussionButton"="no"

End PART 1


----------



## Hueristic

Part 2

Code:



Code:


;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Unlock the toolbars

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftInternet ExplorerToolbar]
"Locked"=dword:00000000

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

;================================================
; \\\\\\\\\\\\\\   Context Menus   //////////////
;================================================

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Adds MSCONFIG to right click on My Computer

[HKEY_CLASSES_ROOTCLSID{20D04FE0-3AEA-1069-A2D8-08002B30309D}shellmsconfig]
@="MSCONFIG"
[HKEY_CLASSES_ROOTCLSID{20D04FE0-3AEA-1069-A2D8-08002B30309D}shellmsconfigcommand]
@="msconfig.exe"

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Adds Services to right click on My Computer

[HKEY_CLASSES_ROOTCLSID{20D04FE0-3AEA-1069-A2D8-08002B30309D}shellservices] 
@=hex(2):53,00,65,00,72,00,76,00,69,00,63,00,65,00,73,00,00,00 
"SuppressionPolicy"=dword:4000003c 
[HKEY_CLASSES_ROOTCLSID{20D04FE0-3AEA-1069-A2D8-08002B30309D}shellservicescommand] 
@=hex(2):25,00,77,00,69,00,6e,00,64,00,69,00,72,00,25,00,5c,00,73,00,79,00,73, 00,74,00,65,00,6d,00,33,00,32,00,5c,00,6d,00,6d,00,63,00,2e,00,65,00,78,00, 65,00,20,00,2f,00,73,00,20,00,25,00,53,00,79,00,73,00,74,00,65,00,6d,00,52, 00,6f,00,6f,00,74,00,25,00,5c,00,73,00,79,00,73,00,74,00,65,00,6d,00,33,00, 32,00,5c,00,73,00,65,00,72,00,76,00,69,00,63,00,65,00,73,00,2e,00,6d,00,73, 00,63,00,20,00,2f,00,73,00,00,00

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Show Encryption Commands on the Shortcut Menu

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionExplorerAdvanced]
"EncryptionContextMenu"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Makes a right click option for unknown files (Open with notepad)

[HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT*shell]
@="\\"notepad.exe %1\\""
[HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT*shellopen]
@="Open &With Notepad"
[HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT*shellopencommand]
@="notepad.exe %1"

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Add register / unregister to the context menu for .dll files

[HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT.dll]
"Content Type"="application/x-msdownload"
@="dllfile"
[HKEY_CLASSES_ROOTdllfile]
@="Application Extension"
[HKEY_CLASSES_ROOTdllfileShellRegistercommand]
@="regsvr32.exe \\"%1\\""
[HKEY_CLASSES_ROOTdllfileShellUnRegistercommand]
@="regsvr32.exe /u \\"%1\\""

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Add register / unregister to the context menu for .ocx files

[HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT.ocx]
@="ocxfile"
[HKEY_CLASSES_ROOTocxfile]
@="OCX"
[HKEY_CLASSES_ROOTocxfileShellRegistercommand]
@="regsvr32.exe \\"%1\\""
[HKEY_CLASSES_ROOTocxfileShellUnRegistercommand]
@="regsvr32.exe /u \\"%1\\""

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;All items have an "edit.." on right-click sending to notepad

[HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT*shellopen]
@="Edit.."
[HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT*shellopencommand]
@="notepad.exe %1"

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;This adds an option in the right-click (context) menu to open any folder on your computer in a new window.

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREClassesDirectoryshellopenNew]
@="Open In New &Window"

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREClassesDirectoryshellopenNewCommand]
@="explorer %1"

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Open .NFO files with notepad

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionExplorerFileExts.nfo]

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionExplorerFileExts.nfoOpenWithList]
"a"="NOTEPAD.EXE"
"MRUList"="a"

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionExplorerFileExts.nfoOpenWithProgids]
"nfo_auto_file"=hex(0):

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Disable file association web-service - Bypassing "Browse web for program" to open unknown extension.
;"Open With..." becomes default

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionPoliciesSystem]
"NoInternetOpenWith"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Right-click any drive to close the tray of the optical drive (Requires CDR.exe in system32)

[HKEY_CLASSES_ROOTDriveshelldraw]
@="Close CD-&tray"
[HKEY_CLASSES_ROOTDriveshelldrawcommand]
@="cdr.exe close ALL"

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Adds "Command Prompt" to the right click of folders

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREClassesFoldershellCommand Prompt]
@="Command Prompt"

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREClassesFoldershellCommand Promptcommand]
@="Cmd.exe /k pushd %L"

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

;=========================================================
; \\\\\\\\\\\\\\   XP Service Pack 2 Only   //////////////
;=========================================================

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

;Gets rid of annoying popup for running files you download from internet

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftInternet ExplorerDownload]
"CheckExeSignatures"="no"
"RunInvalidSignatures"=dword:00000001
[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionPoliciesAttachments]
"SaveZoneInformation"=dword:00000001
[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionPoliciesAssociations]
"LowRiskFileTypes"=".zip;.rar;.nfo;.txt;.exe;.bat;.com;.cmd;.reg;.msi;.htm;.html;.gif;.bmp;.jpg;.avi;.mpg;.mpeg;.mov;.mp3;.m3u;.wav;"

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Disable Information Bar Prompt in Internet Explorer

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftInternet ExplorerInformationBar]
"FirstTime"=dword:00000000

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Disable Firewall Notifications

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREMicrosoftSecurity Center]
"FirewallDisableNotify"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Disable Automatic Updates Notifications

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREMicrosoftSecurity Center]
"UpdatesDisableNotify"=dword:00000001

;+++++++++++++++++++++++++++
;\\\\\\   Notepad   ///////
;+++++++++++++++++++++++++++

;Notepad saves page setup and window positions

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftNotepad]
"fSavePageSettings"=dword:00000001
"fSaveWindowPositions"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Enable status bar in notepad

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftNotepad]
"StatusBar"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Enable word wrap

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftNotepad]
"fWrap"=dword:00000001

;++++++++++++++++++++++++
;\\\\\\   NERO   ///////
;++++++++++++++++++++++++

;Show the real CD-recording speed in Nero  (example:  21.6x writing speed)

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareAheadNero - Burning RomRecorder]
"ShowSingleRecorderSpeed"=dword:00000001

;+++++++++++++++++++++++++
;\\\\   PLEXTOOLS   /////
;+++++++++++++++++++++++++

;Allows installing  PlexTools Upgrade as full version

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionJuxtaposition]
@="11111111"
"Parameter"="11111111"

;+++++++++++++++++++++++
;\\\\   MESSENGER   ////
;+++++++++++++++++++++++

; Don't let Windows Messenger load involuntarily at every boot-up

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREPoliciesMicrosoftMessengerClient]
"PreventAutoRun"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
; Prevent new ads being downloaded every 6 minutes in windows messenger

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREMicrosoftMessengerServicePolicies]
"DisableCrossPromo"=hex:80

;+++++++++++++++++++++++
;\\   OFFICE 2003   ///
;+++++++++++++++++++++++

;Gets rid of tray icon for taking survey (office 2k3)

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftOffice11.0CommonInternet]
"UseOnlineContent"=dword:00000002

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftOfficeCommon]
"QMEnable"=dword:00000000

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Enables Live Scrolling in Microsoft Word

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftOffice11.0WordOptions]
"LiveScrolling"="1"

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftOffice10.0WordOptions]
"LiveScrolling"="1"

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftOffice8.0WordOptions]
"LiveScrolling"="1"

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Get rid of 'EULA' dialog for MS-PowerPoint Viewer 2003

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftPowerPoint Viewer11.0]
"EULAAccepted"=dword:00000001

;=====================================================
; \\\\\\\\\\\\   Windows Media Player   //////////////
;=====================================================

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Disable Auto Upgrade with Windows Media Player

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwarePoliciesMicrosoftWindowsMediaPlayer]
"DisableAutoUpdate"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Windows Media Player - Fit Video To Screen

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftMediaPlayerPreferences]
"SnapToVideo"=dword:00000000

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Media Player EULA Auto accept (to prevent first-run on XPSP2)

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREPoliciesMicrosoftWindowsMediaPlayer]
"GroupPrivacyAcceptance"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;WMP Privacy Statement

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftMediaPlayerPreferences]
"AcceptedPrivacyStatement"=dword:00000001
"FirstRun"=dword:00000000

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Disable Media Player identification (track-back) through Internetsites

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftMediaPlayerPreferences]
"SendUserGUID"=hex:00

;----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Various WMP Tweaks

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftMediaPlayerPreferences]
"SilentAcquisition"=dword:00000000
"UsageTracking"=dword:00000000
"DisableMRU"=dword:00000001
"SaveDRMMusic"=dword:00000000
"LibraryHasBeenRun"=dword:00000001
"FullmodeTaskbar"=dword:00000001
"UpgradeCheckFrequency"=dword:00000002
"StretchToFit"=dword:00000001
"LaunchIndex"=dword:00000003
"Maximized"="0"
"ShrinkToFit"=dword:00000000
"ShowEffects"=dword:00000001
"ShowFullScreenPlaylist"=dword:00000000
"NowPlayingQuickHide"=dword:00000000
"ShowTitles"=dword:00000001
"ShowCaptions"=dword:00000001
"TitlebarMouseover"=dword:00000000
"ForceOnline"=dword:00000000
"NowPlayingPlaylist"=dword:00000001
"NowPlayingMetadata"=dword:00000001
"NowPlayingSettings"=dword:00000000
"VizAutoSelect"=dword:00000001
"CurrentDisplayView"="VizView"
"CurrentDisplayPreset"=dword:00000000
"CurrentSettingsPreset"=dword:00000000
"CurrentMetadataPreset"=dword:00000000
"UserDisplayView"="VizView"
"UserWMPDisplayView"="VizView"
"UserWMPSettingsView"="EQView"
"UserWMPMetadataView"="MediaInfoView"
"UserDisplayPreset"=dword:00000000
"UserWMPDisplayPreset"=dword:00000000
"UserWMPSettingsPreset"=dword:00000000
"UserWMPMetadataPreset"=dword:00000000
"UserWMPShowSettings"=dword:00000000
"UserWMPShowMetadata"=dword:00000000
"CDRecordMP3"=dword:00000001
"CDRecordMode"=dword:00000000
"WMARecordRate"=dword:0000fa00
"WMARecordQuality"=dword:00000000
"MP3RecordRate"=dword:0002ee00
"CDRecordDRM"=dword:00000000
"AutoCopyCD"=dword:00000000
"AutoEjectCD"=dword:00000000
"AutoAddRemovable"=dword:00000000
"DeleteRemovesFromComputer"=dword:00000000
"AutoAddMusicToLibrary"=dword:00000000

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Enable DVD in Media Player Value: Yes or No

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftMediaPlayerPlayerSettings]
"EnableDVDUI"="Yes"

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Enable MP3 Encoding from right-click while browsing

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREMicrosoftMediaPlayerSettingsMP3Encoding]
"HighRate"=dword:0004e200

;===========================================
; \\\\\\\\\\\\   Multimedia   //////////////
;===========================================

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
; Disables Preview of Movie file formats (allowing you to move/rename/delete without errors)

[-HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT.aviShellEx]

[-HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT.mpgShellEx]

[-HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT.mpeShellEx]

[-HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT.mpegShellEx]

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Speed-up Access to AVI Media Files

[-HKEY_CLASSES_ROOTCLSID{87D62D94-71B3-4b9a-9489-5FE6850DC73E}]

[-HKEY_CLASSES_ROOTSystemFileAssociations.avishellexPropertyHandler]

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Show volume icon in the System Tray

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionAppletsSysTray]
"Services"=dword:0000001f

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

;====================================
;\\\\\\\\\\   Networking   //////////
;====================================

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Stop caching negative responses

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESYSTEMCurrentControlSetServicesDnscacheParameters]
"MaxNegativeCacheTtl "=dword:00000000

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Force keep positive entries in DNS Cache for only 4 hours instead of the default 24 hours

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESYSTEMCurrentControlSetServicesDnscacheParameters]
"MaxCacheTtl "=dword:00003840

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Show Lan Errors

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESYSTEMCurrentControlSetControlNetworkConnectionsStatMon]
"ShowLanErrors"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Increase Network Throughput

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESYSTEMCurrentControlSetServiceslanmanworkstationparameters]
"MaxCmds"=dword:00000064
"MaxThreads"=dword:00000064
"MaxCollectionCount"=dword:00000064

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Increase RPC Packet Size

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREMicrosoftRpc]
"MaxRpcSize"=dword:00100000

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Mount net-drives first, when they are needed

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESystemCurrentControlSetControlNetworkProvider]
"RestoreConnection"=dword:00000000

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

;============================================
;\\\\\\\\\\\\\\   Security   ///////////////
;============================================

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Disable Default Hidden Shares - This keeps Windows from creating the  Admin$, C$, etc. shares
;(which are security holes) automatically on start-up.

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESYSTEMCurrentControlSetServicesLanmanServerparameters]
"AutoShareWks"=dword:00000000

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESYSTEMCurrentControlSetServicesLanmanServerParameters]
"AutoShareServer"=dword:00000000

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Fix for DSO Exploit that Spybot complains about

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionInternet SettingsZones\0]
"1004"=dword:00000003

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Show Window Contents While Dragging

[HKEY_USERS.DEFAULTControl PanelDesktop]
"DragFullWindows"="1"

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionExplorerVisualEffectsDragFullWindows]
"DefaultApplied"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Disable Stupid Window Animation

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERControl PanelDesktopWindowMetrics]
"MinAnimate"="0"

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftInternet ExplorerMain]
"Start Page"="http://www.google.com/"

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Display DOS filenames in proper text-case
;Show Hidden Files and Folders
;Use Windows Classic Folders

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionExplorerAdvanced]
"Start_ShowMyDocs"=dword:00000001
"DontPrettyPath"=dword:00000001
"HideIcons"=dword:00000000
"Filter"=dword:00000000
"ShowSuperHidden"=dword:00000001
"StartMenuInit"=dword:00000002
"StartButtonBalloonTip"=dword:00000000
"SuperHidden"=dword:00000001
"WebView"=dword:00000000

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Makes any open folders restore again when Windows restarts

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionExplorerAdvanced]
"PersistBrowsers"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Disable Automatic Restart In The Event Of a Blue Screen Of Death

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESYSTEMCurrentControlSetControlCrashControl]
"AutoReboot"=dword:00000000

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Gets rid of Places Bar in Common Dialog Boxes.

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionPoliciesComdlg32]
"NoBackButton"=dword:00000001
"NoPlacesBar"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Add Notepad as a Right Click Item

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREClassesDirectoryshellNotepad]
@="Notepad"

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Enable status bar in Windows Explorer

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftInternet ExplorerMain]
"StatusBarOther"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Enables status bar in Explorer

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionExplorerStreamsDefaults]
"{20D04FE0-3AEA-1069-A2D8-08002B30309D}"=hex:1c,00,00,00,03,00,00,00,00,00,00,
00,00,00,9a,00,00,00,00,00,01,00,00,00,ff,ff,ff,ff,f0,f0,f0,f0,14,00,03,00,
9a,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,30,00,00,00,fd,df,df,fd,0f,00,05,00,24,00,10,00,2e,
00,46,00,00,00,00,00,01,00,00,00,02,00,00,00,03,00,00,00,04,00,00,00,78,00,
96,00,60,00,60,00,78,00,00,00,00,00,01,00,00,00,02,00,00,00,03,00,00,00,05,
00,00,00,ff,ff,ff,ff,cf,f3,a8,b0,33,43,ab,4b,88,73,1c,cb,1c,ad,a4,8b,30,f1,
25,b7,ef,47,1a,10,a5,f1,02,60,8c,9e,eb,ac,04,00,00,00

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Enable status bar in notepad

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftNotepad]
"StatusBar"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Make IE visit Google.com on first run

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftInternet ExplorerMain]
"Start Page"="http://www.google.com"
"Default_Page_URL"="http://www.google.com"

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESoftwareMicrosoftInternet ExplorerMain]
"Start Page"="http://www.google.com"
"Default_Page_URL"="http://www.google.com"

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Show small icons in Start menu

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionExplorerStuckRects2]
"Settings"=hex:28,00,00,00,ff,ff,ff,ff,06,00,00,00,03,00,00,00,3c,00,00,00,20,
  00,00,00,fe,ff,ff,ff,e2,02,00,00,02,04,00,00,02,03,00,00

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Add Google As Main Start Page

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftInternet ExplorerMain]
"Start Page"="http://www.google.com"

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESoftwareMicrosoftInternet ExplorerMain]
"Start Page"="http://www.google.com"

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Show Windows Updates in Add-Remove Programs

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionApp Management]
"ShowUpdates"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
; Show Control Panel as a link

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionExplorerAdvanced]
"Start_ShowControlPanel"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
; Disable Transition Effect (Right Clicking)

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERControl PanelDesktop]
"UserPreferencesMask"=hex:b0,12,07,80

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
; Disable Anti-virus Notifications

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREMicrosoftSecurity Center]
"AntiVirusDisableNotify"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
; Disable Firewall Notifications

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREMicrosoftSecurity Center]
"FirewallDisableNotify"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
; Disable Automatic Updates Notifications

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREMicrosoftSecurity Center]
"UpdatesDisableNotify"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
; Override Antivirus

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREMicrosoftSecurity Center]
"AntiVirusOverride"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
; Override Windows Firewall

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREMicrosoftSecurity Center]
"FirewallOverride"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
; Disable Security Center

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESYSTEMCurrentControlSetServiceswscsvc]
"Start"=dword:00000004

;----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
; Disable Remote Registry

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESYSTEMCurrentControlSetServicesRemoteRegistry]
"Start"=dword:00000004

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
; No programs on the left side of start menu

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionExplorerAdvanced]
"Start_MinMFU"=dword:00000000

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
; Set monitor to "always on" (No screensaver)

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERControl PanelDesktop]
"ScreenSaveActive"="0"
[HKEY_CURRENT_USERControl PanelDesktop]
"SCRNSAVE.EXE"=""
[HKEY_USERS.DEFAULTControl PanelDesktop]
"ScreenSaveActive"="0"
[HKEY_USERS.DEFAULTControl PanelDesktop]
"SCRNSAVE.EXE"=""

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
; Open HTA files with MSHTA.EXE

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREClasses.hta]
@="hta_auto_file"

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREClasseshta_auto_file]
@=""

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREClasseshta_auto_fileshell]

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREClasseshta_auto_fileshellopen]

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREClasseshta_auto_fileshellopencommand]
@="\\"C:\\WINDOWS\\system32\\mshta.exe\\" \\"%1\\""

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
; Disable the monitor resolution check (red circle in taskbar on first logon)

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionExplorerDontShowMeThisDialogAgain]
"ScreenCheck"="no"

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
; Disable Windows Tour

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionAppletsTour]
"RunCount"=dword:00000000

[-HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionExplorerPostBootReminders]

;--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
; Add "Userpasswords2" to Control Panel

[HKEY_CLASSES_ROOTCLSID{98641F47-8C25-4936-BEE4-C2CE1298969D}]
@="User Password"
"InfoTip"="Starts The Windows 2000 style User Accounts dialog"
[HKEY_CLASSES_ROOTCLSID{98641F47-8C25-4936-BEE4-C2CE1298969D}DefaultIcon]
@="%SystemRoot%\\\\System32\\\
usrmgr.cpl,0"
[HKEY_CLASSES_ROOTCLSID{98641F47-8C25-4936-BEE4-C2CE1298969D}Shell]
[HKEY_CLASSES_ROOTCLSID{98641F47-8C25-4936-BEE4-C2CE1298969D}ShellOpen]
[HKEY_CLASSES_ROOTCLSID{98641F47-8C25-4936-BEE4-C2CE1298969D}ShellOpencommand]
@="Control Userpasswords2"
[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionExplorerControlPanelNameSpace{98641F47-8C25-4936-BEE4-C2CE1298969D}]
@="Add Userpasswords2 to Control Panel"

; --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
; Kiss my *** Microsoft

[-HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREMicrosoftWindows NTCurrentVersionWinlogonNotifyWgaLogon]

;------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
;Never turn off the monitor (Default was turn off monitor after 20 minutes)

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESYSTEMControlSet001ControlSession ManagerPower]
"AcPolicy"=hex:01,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,03,00,00,00,10,00,00,00,02,00,00,00,03,
  00,00,00,00,00,00,00,02,00,00,00,01,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,01,00,00,00,1a,88,
  41,7e,00,00,00,00,01,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,32,00,00,00,02,00,00,
  00,02,00,00,00,02,00,00,00,01,00,00,00,96,88,41,7e,00,00,00,00,03,00,00,00,
  01,00,00,00,03,00,00,00,03,00,00,00,04,00,00,c0,01,00,00,00,05,00,00,00,01,
  00,00,00,0a,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,03,00,00,00,01,00,01,00,01,00,00,00,00,00,
  00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,02,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,
  00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,03,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,
  00,d0,09,00,08,00,00,00,3c,13,00,00,30,31,09,00,00,00,00,00,01,64,64,00,02,
  00,00,00,04,00,00,c0,00,00,00,00
"DcPolicy"=hex:01,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,03,00,00,00,10,00,00,00,02,00,00,00,03,
  00,00,00,00,00,00,00,02,00,00,00,01,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,01,00,00,00,0d,00,
  00,00,02,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,2c,01,00,00,32,03,09,00,02,00,00,
  00,02,00,00,00,02,00,00,00,01,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,84,03,00,00,03,00,00,00,
  01,00,00,00,03,00,00,00,03,00,00,00,04,00,00,c0,01,00,00,00,05,00,00,00,01,
  00,00,00,0a,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,03,00,00,00,01,00,01,00,01,00,00,00,00,00,
  00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,02,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,
  00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,03,00,00,00,00,00,2c,01,00,00,
  01,88,41,7e,99,01,00,00,d0,7f,54,00,e4,7f,54,00,58,02,00,00,01,64,64,00,02,
  00,00,00,04,00,00,c0,00,00,00,00

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESYSTEMCurrentControlSetControlSession ManagerPower]
"AcPolicy"=hex:01,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,03,00,00,00,10,00,00,00,02,00,00,00,03,
  00,00,00,00,00,00,00,02,00,00,00,01,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,01,00,00,00,1a,88,
  41,7e,00,00,00,00,01,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,32,00,00,00,02,00,00,
  00,02,00,00,00,02,00,00,00,01,00,00,00,96,88,41,7e,00,00,00,00,03,00,00,00,
  01,00,00,00,03,00,00,00,03,00,00,00,04,00,00,c0,01,00,00,00,05,00,00,00,01,
  00,00,00,0a,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,03,00,00,00,01,00,01,00,01,00,00,00,00,00,
  00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,02,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,
  00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,03,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,
  00,d0,09,00,08,00,00,00,3c,13,00,00,30,31,09,00,00,00,00,00,01,64,64,00,02,
  00,00,00,04,00,00,c0,00,00,00,00
"DcPolicy"=hex:01,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,03,00,00,00,10,00,00,00,02,00,00,00,03,
  00,00,00,00,00,00,00,02,00,00,00,01,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,01,00,00,00,0d,00,
  00,00,02,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,2c,01,00,00,32,03,09,00,02,00,00,
  00,02,00,00,00,02,00,00,00,01,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,84,03,00,00,03,00,00,00,
  01,00,00,00,03,00,00,00,03,00,00,00,04,00,00,c0,01,00,00,00,05,00,00,00,01,
  00,00,00,0a,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,03,00,00,00,01,00,01,00,01,00,00,00,00,00,
  00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,02,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,
  00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,03,00,00,00,00,00,2c,01,00,00,
  01,88,41,7e,99,01,00,00,d0,7f,54,00,e4,7f,54,00,58,02,00,00,01,64,64,00,02,
  00,00,00,04,00,00,c0,00,00,00,00

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERControl PanelPowerCfgPowerPolicies\0]
"Policies"=hex:01,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,01,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,02,00,00,00,00,
  00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,2c,01,00,00,32,32,00,03,02,00,00,00,02,00,
  00,00,00,00,3d,77,2e,f2,07,00,00,00,00,00,2c,01,00,00,00,00,00,00,58,02,00,
  00,01,01,64,64,64,64,91,7c

;------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
; Do not show the yellow shield (Windows Update) in system tray

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionWindowsUpdateAuto Update]
"SetupWizardLaunchTime"=-
"BalloonTime"=-
"BalloonType"=-

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionWindowsUpdateAuto Update]
"AUOptions"=dword:00000001

;------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
; My Computer as a link

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionExplorerAdvanced]
"Start_ShowMyComputer"=dword:00000001

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
; Set IE7 up so it does not visit Microsoft on first run

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftInternet ExplorerMain]
"CompatibilityFlags"=dword:00000000
"SearchMigrated"=dword:00000001
"SearchMigratedDefaultName"="Google"
"SearchMigratedDefaultURL"="http://www.google.com/search?q={searchTerms}&sourceid=ie7&rls=com.microsoft:en-US&ie=utf8&oe=utf8"
"SearchMigratedInstalled"=dword:00000001
"RunOnceHasShown"=dword:00000001
"RunOnceComplete"=dword:00000001

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftInternet ExplorerSearchScopes]
"DefaultScope"="{9EA44D8B-84D5-478A-9639-9E066F9F50A7}"
"Version"=dword:00000001

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftInternet ExplorerSearchScopes{9EA44D8B-84D5-478A-9639-9E066F9F50A7}]
"DisplayName"="Google"
"URL"="http://www.google.com/search?q={searchTerms}&sourceid=ie7&rls=com.microsoft:en-US&ie=utf8&oe=utf8"

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftInternet ExplorerZoom]
"ResetTextSizeOnStartup"=dword:00000000
"ResetTextSizeOnZoom"=dword:00000001
"ResetZoomOnStartup"=dword:00000001
"ZoomFactor"=dword:000186a0

;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
; Turn on the phishing filter in IE7

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftInternet ExplorerPhishingFilter]
"ShownVerifyBalloon"=dword:00000003
"Enabled"=dword:00000002

[HKEY_CURRENT_USERSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionInternet Settings]
"ShowPunycode"=dword:00000000
"EnablePunycode"=dword:00000001
"DisableIDNPrompt"=dword:00000000
"WarnOnPostRedirect"=dword:00000001

[/code]

end part2


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FnkDctr* 
CPU
Athlon 64 X2 5200+ Motherboard
ASUS M3N78-VM Memory
2GB Crucial DDR2 800 Graphics Card
XFX GeForce 7900GS
Hard Drive
320GB Western Digital Sound Card
onboard Case
HP mATX
OS
XP MCE 2k5 Monitor
20" Acer AL2002W

Well I am unsure of your previous machine, but this isnt much if any improvement.

I can overclock my +4800 from 2.4 to 2.75ghz-2.85ghz stable all day. Im sure thats above the stock performance of the +5200.

Only 2gb of ddr2 which is already on the way out. Id atleast get 4gb.

I just dont see much if any improvement in this machine, and the main reason I wouldnt upgrade, is your future with this machine. You won't be able to upgrade it enough to compete with modern systems. You are trading in an outdated socket for another outdated socket that you will probably be bored with in less than a year...

I would save my money for a more serious cpu and motherboard.

I agree w/you to a point. His mobo that he is getting is decent at best for an upgrade. I am in the same boat w/an upgrade that I'm doing an install on ATM. will have eye candy pics for ya'll in a while. Well I'll have some before the end of this week end any way. Hue that is a lot of stuff. I'm gonna have to pm the links for both post's so that I can go back to it later and not have to sift through hundreds of 939 pages.







Thanks for that BTW.

Edit I need to find my Microsoft wirless keyboard and mouse for this new build untill I can get a new G9x USB mouser...


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *simfreak47* 
Guys, kinda drifting away from s939... BUT

what do you guys think of the new parts that I'm ordering soon? (sig rig)

Sim, how much have you got to upgrade with? You can put together an decent/good AM3 rig for ~$320 for mobo, cpu and DDR3 1600.
Honestly, I'd go that route and wait to upgrade the GPU till later. That would be a considerably better than an AM2 rig. The only real difference between AM2 and 939 is that AM2 has a DDR2 memory controller where as 939 are obviously DDR.

Heres a _cheap_ AM3 system.

Gigabyte crossfire board $124.99 after MIR.

AM3 710 triple core $119.99 shipped.

Patriot Extreme DDR3 1600 $60.99 after MIR free shipping.

The mobo also comes with some sort of mouse.









So there you have it, $335 before shipping and MIR. and then you get $30 back from MIR. So total you'll spend $305


----------



## nategr8ns

Gaaaaah four pages in two days?
[
QUOTE=BlackOmega;5971516]Wow thats a long ways for you. Exactly how miles is that?









I remember reading somewhere else a long time ago about enabling both the SLI and SATA 3.0 on the Lanparty NF4-D.[/QUOTE]
~4500km? not sure exactly. I'll figure it out in the morning (loong flight home, although not as bad as the 23 hours it took to get there -.-).

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I've been around town, wherever I parked my car







.

I'm actually doing a LOT better now. I've got two lawyers working on two different things for me (for the better), and there's a new girl in my life that I'm hoping works out







.

Nice!
And that was fast







.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Gaaaaah four pages in two days?
[
QUOTE=BlackOmega;5971516]Wow thats a long ways for you. Exactly how miles is that?









I remember reading somewhere else a long time ago about enabling both the SLI and SATA 3.0 on the Lanparty NF4-D.
~4500km? not sure exactly. I'll figure it out in the morning (loong flight home, although not as bad as the 23 hours it took to get there -.-).

Nice!
And that was fast







.


Fast??? It was 2 months







.


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Sim, how much have you got to upgrade with? You can put together an decent/good AM3 rig for ~$320 for mobo, cpu and DDR3 1600. 
Honestly, I'd go that route and wait to upgrade the GPU till later. That would be a considerably better than an AM2 rig. The only real difference between AM2 and 939 is that AM2 has a DDR2 memory controller where as 939 are obviously DDR.

Heres a _cheap_ AM3 system.

Gigabyte crossfire board $124.99 after MIR.

AM3 710 triple core $119.99 shipped.

Patriot Extreme DDR3 1600 $60.99 after MIR free shipping.

The mobo also comes with some sort of mouse.









So there you have it, $335 before shipping and MIR. and then you get $30 back from MIR. So total you'll spend $305










Hey thanks! That's a bit above my budget sadly. With the AM2+ I'm ordering, I'll have enough left over to buy a decent PSU.

Edit- forgot to mention, I'm trying to ease up on the power bill. the CPU is the 65watt Brisbane, and the mobo's PSU requirements are lower than the DFI LP NF4.....


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *simfreak47*


Hey thanks! That's a bit above my budget sadly, the AM2+ will give me enough to buy a decent PSU.










What is your budget? And what PSU are you using now?
Maybe we can make it work out some how.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *simfreak47*


Hey thanks! That's a bit above my budget sadly. With the AM2+ I'm ordering, I'll have enough left over to buy a decent PSU.


 I picked up 2 x corsair 620hx on ebay for roghly $80.00 ea. The deals are out there. Just be patient and keep an open mind/schedule for shopping and you will be just fine...


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*









What is your budget? And what PSU are you using now?
Maybe we can make it work out some how.


about $200 total. Right now I have a 250 watt LITE-ON PSU from an HP. Definitely need a new one, which will be about $50 or so, for a cheaper one.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I picked up 2 x corsair 620hx on ebay for roghly $80.00 ea. The deals are out there. Just be patient and keep an open mind/schedule for shopping and youl be just fine...










I'd love to be back up and running pretty soon though, I just sold the guts to Dust Magnet.. so yeah.. lol.

Thanks guys


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *simfreak47* 
about $200 total. Right now I have a 250 watt LITE-ON PSU from an HP. Definitely need a new one, which will be about $50 or so, for a cheaper one.

I'd love to be back up and running pretty soon though, I just sold the guts to Dust Magnet.. so yeah.. lol.

Thanks guys









how much did you get for the expert???


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *simfreak47* 
about $200 total. Right now I have a 250 watt LITE-ON PSU from an HP. Definitely need a new one, which will be about $50 or so, for a cheaper one.

I'd love to be back up and running pretty soon though, I just sold the guts to Dust Magnet.. so yeah.. lol.

Thanks guys









DOnt you still have the board? Put that mamma jamma on eBay, you should be able to get ~ $100 for it if not more. IIRC, just the SLI-D were going for more than $100 last time I checked. And if you've got the expert you could probably get more.
On here you probably wouldn't get as much.

Sell that board and then we'll build you a rig. As $200 is not much to put together a rig that also needs a PSU.


----------



## simfreak47

Sold her for $95 at another forum

(That's not bad though, considering I got it for $15 "dead". All it needed was a clear CMOS)


----------



## BlackOmega

OK lets see what we can do then









EDIT: DO you still have the corsair PSU?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *simfreak47* 
Sold her for $95 at another forum

(That's not bad though, considering I got it for $15 "dead". All it needed was a clear CMOS)


Man those are the sweet deals you hear about but never get a hold of. Good Yob Main.









I have a nice mobo that I could sell you. M2N32 SLI Deluxe. I know, NVM


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
OK lets see what we can do then









EDIT: DO you still have the corsair PSU?

No, when I sent it back for a refund, there was no idea of upgrading.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Man those are the sweet deals you hear about but never get a hold of. Good Yob Main.









I have a nice mobo that I could sell you. M2N32 SLI Deluxe. I know, NVM

I would be interested, but I'm trying to go "green", and get mATX case. The HP one looks far better than the one I'm using now, broke and what not. lol.


----------



## BlackOmega

Well heres about the best deal on there that I could find for something decent. 9600 quad core + GB mobo

And heres some ram Adata 4GB kit

That would be $210 before shipping for everything.

Hell just build a case out of wood


----------



## Blitz6804

Guys, please, PLEASE try to keep it 939.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Guys, please, PLEASE try to keep it 939.


As Promised!!! Is any one following this thread...


----------



## Blitz6804

I check it 1-5 times a day; relax N2Gaming.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I check it 1-5 times a day; relax N2Gaming.

NP I was just teasing you...


----------



## Kryton

Posting this entry for the 939 club with specs on hardware used to pull off this CPU-Z run done on air:


X2 4200 LCBQE
DFI LP UT NF4 Expert
OCZ Gold EL PC4400 (2x256MB)


----------



## Blitz6804

Holy Crow, look at that overclock! (Will get an "Oh WOW" on the offsite.) Welcome aboard Kryton!

I will add you (and rammunition/TheSubtleKnife) to the offsite roster likely tomorrow. How did you get that overclock? Air cooling? Water cooling? DIce? If you add your system to your signature, you can share with the world your jewel.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Posting this entry for the 939 club with specs on hardware used to pull off this CPU-Z run done on air:


X2 4200 LCBQE
DFI LP UT NF4 Expert
OCZ Gold EL PC4400 (2x256MB)

Welcome to OCN Kryton, Prolly this club as well...

Do us all a favor and click on me a do the deed. Be as specific as possible. Make Model spd timing voltage etc etc.

good to see you found us...


----------



## Kryton

Thanks guys.
I've been around the block a time or two related to OC'ing but there's still more to learn on my part.

I'll get the specs on my system(s) in my sig soon.
BTW, that was done with aircooling.
Also have a few other 939's I need to test and see what they can do, a 4000+, Opty 175 and Opty 180. I'll get around to testing those before too long I hope.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Thanks guys.
I've been around the block a time or two related to OC'ing but there's still more to learn on my part.

I'll get the specs on my system(s) in my sig soon.
BTW, that was done with aircooling.
Also have a few other 939's I need to test and see what they can do, a 4000+, Opty 175 and Opty 180. I'll get around to testing those before too long I hope.

Not trying to knock you down any becuase that is quite a hecktick OC. I'm just wondering how stable it is if any and what kind of things you can do w/only 512MB of pc4400 Ram???


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
Gaaaaah four pages in two days?


















Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Posting this entry for the 939 club with specs on hardware used to pull off this CPU-Z run done on air:


X2 4200 LCBQE
DFI LP UT NF4 Expert
OCZ Gold EL PC4400 (2x256MB)


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Not trying to knock you down any becuase that is quite a hecktick OC. I'm just wondering how stable it is if any and what kind of things you can do w/only 512MB of pc4400 Ram???

There's actually quite a bit you can do with only 512MB of RAM. When you're running XP, most of the time (unless doing some serious gaming) you don't need more than 512MB.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
There's actually quite a bit you can do with only 512MB of RAM. When you're running XP, most of the time (unless doing some serious gaming) you don't need more than 512MB.

Really I did not know that. Since my first 939 rig I have had 64 bit os and 2 gig min ram... I'm sure I could choke 512 fairly easy w/all that I do...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Really I did not know that. Since my first 939 rig I have had 64 bit os and 2 gig min ram... I'm sure I could choke 512 fairly easy w/all that I do...

Running Vista, yes you could. The rig I'm on right now runs just fine for standard stuff and simple web based games (which is what 99% of computer users use anyway).

Intel Celeron Socket 478 @ 1.6GHz
2x128MB DDR 266
40GB IDE Hard Drive
Onboard S3 Chrome Graphics

I've been using this rig for the last 2 days. And it appears to work just fine.

However my main rig...I can fill up all 4GB of the RAM with ease. Its just a matter of what you do with your computer. 512MB of RAM running XP is actually quite easy to use, and really doesn't slow down too much. 1-2GB is the sweet spot for XP though, that's for sure.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Not trying to knock you down any becuase that is quite a hecktick OC. I'm just wondering how stable it is if any and what kind of things you can do w/only 512MB of pc4400 Ram???

I understand why you ask that and I'll say it wasn't exactly stable pulling that run off, but managed to get it done. In fact it was kinda like a house of cards related to stability. The low ambient temps I had at the time made it possible and took full advantage to get it done.

I used that particular RAM set for the run, being I didn't want too much RAM used for getting the clockspeed I wanted and not stress the CPU's IMC too much at those speeds.
I normally run 1024MB's with it but believe me, I have plenty of RAM onhand for whatever I need here considering I also bench Socket A's and 754 systems too. .


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


512MB of RAM running XP is actually quite easy to use, and really doesn't slow down too much. 1-2GB is the sweet spot for XP though, that's for sure.


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks guys... I new there was a catch... Any way I was able to get decent overlcocks w/my opty 180 and crucial balistix DDR500 1 gig kit On my daly driver DFI NF4 SLI-DR mobo but no where's even close to what you got. Not that I can't I just don't have the level of expertise at the time to pull it off... Still farting around w/ getting a better rig built. Come to think of it I spend all day on my pc's and learn littel to nothing







ing at my self for that...


----------



## Kryton

In my experience with the Opty chips I have, they tend to run hotter than my X2 does making cooling even more important. I can normally get around 3.1GHz or so with them while the X2 can hit 3.2 with the same ambient temps, hardware, cooling ect.

I'm currently working on a WC'ing setup for my stuff and know I can get more from my CPU's if I can keep temps low enough. Will probrably be awhile before it's actually completed because I want it done right, so I'm taking my time with it. 
No sense in killing hardware by being in a rush to get it done.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Please welcome our newest member, Kryton.

And jiminy criminy, that is one AWESOME OC on that X2 4200+







!!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


In my experience with the Opty chips I have, they tend to run hotter than my X2 does making cooling even more important. I can normally get around 3.1GHz or so with them while the X2 can hit 3.2 with the same ambient temps, hardware, cooling ect.

I'm currently working on a WC'ing setup for my stuff and know I can get more from my CPU's if I can keep temps low enough. Will probrably be awhile before it's actually completed because I want it done right, so I'm taking my time with it. 
No sense in killing hardware by being in a rush to get it done.


I've actually gotten NEAR 3.3GHz with my Opteron. Just check my sig







. It's possible, its just a royal PITA.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I've actually gotten NEAR 3.3GHz with my Opteron. Just check my sig







. It's possible, its just a royal PITA.


Sometimes it's a real PITA getting to 3.1 but you know that already.

I'm hoping with the WC setup, I can actually get there - One day.

BTW, thanks for the warm welcome guys!









EDIT: 
Figured I'd throw in this screenie from a benching run I did awhile back. I know this chip can do more after I complete my WC'ing setup. This is the highest speed it's hit so far and was done with the lid on it but have delidded the CPU since.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
EDIT:
Figured I'd throw in this screenie from a benching run I did awhile back. I know this chip can do more after I complete my WC'ing setup. This is the highest speed it's hit so far and was done with the lid on it but have delidded the CPU since.

Kryton, welcome aboard. Awesome job on the OC


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Sometimes it's a real PITA getting to 3.1 but you know that already.

I'm hoping with the WC setup, I can actually get there - One day.

BTW, thanks for the warm welcome guys!









EDIT:
Figured I'd throw in this screenie from a benching run I did awhile back. I know this chip can do more after I complete my WC'ing setup. This is the highest speed it's hit so far and was done with the lid on it but have delidded the CPU since.


----------



## BlackOmega

HOly smoke where the hell is everybody?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


HOly smoke where the hell is everybody?



Dropping in for roll call... Ten hut!!!


----------



## Hueristic




----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


HOly smoke where the hell is everybody?


Oh sorry...cleaning out a used Antec 900 case. It had pieces of food in it


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Oh sorry...cleaning out a used Antec 900 case. It had pieces of food in it










Did you come up w/a used 900







if so good job...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Did you come up w/a used 900







if so good job...


N2Gaming, yeah pretty much. A friend of mine sold his old S939 rig for 1 bill so picked it up from him. It had a 3800+ X2, 3.5GB of memory, 250GB IDE, 7600GT, some tv tuner card, a LG burner and this board. Not a bad deal









Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, yeah pretty much. A friend of mine sold his old S939 rig for 1 bill so picked it up from him. It had a 3800+ X2, 3.5GB of memory, 250GB IDE, 7600GT, some tv tuner card, a LG burner and this board. Not a bad deal









Good luck


Indead it pays to have good friends w/money...


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, yeah pretty much. A friend of mine sold his old S939 rig for 1 bill so picked it up from him. It had a 3800+ X2, 3.5GB of memory, 250GB IDE, 7600GT, some tv tuner card, a LG burner and this board. Not a bad deal









Good luck


THats a smokin deal if it came in a antec 900


----------



## loony

Guys, i think i have a problem. I keep getting 50% processor usage while watching vids on youtube and 100% when i watch a DVD. This can't be right can it?


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, yeah pretty much. A friend of mine sold his old S939 rig for 1 bill so picked it up from him. It had a 3800+ X2, 3.5GB of memory, 250GB IDE, 7600GT, some tv tuner card, a LG burner and this board. Not a bad deal









Good luck


Quote:


Originally Posted by *loony* 
Guys, i think i have a problem. I keep getting 50% processor usage while watching vids on youtube and 100% when i watch a DVD. This can't be right can it?

Well the youtube vids use one core while the DVD player uses both cores.
Have you tried opening other programs while watching? The two programs may just be using any idle processes (much in the same way Vista uses unused RAM).


----------



## Blitz6804

Is Ubuntu not throttling the processor properly? That is, does it remember to upclock when you use it?


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Well the youtube vids use one core while the DVD player uses both cores.


He's on a 3500+ single core.


----------



## nategr8ns

sorry, I'd just woken up







.


----------



## loony

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Is Ubuntu not throttling the processor properly? That is, does it remember to upclock when you use it?


I'm not using cool and quite. I checked temps to see if my overclock might be the cause and my temps wernt going over 35 degrees, i took the CPU back to stock and i'm still getting this issue. Just going on firefox is using 10% and sometimes it randomly jumps to 100%.


----------



## Blitz6804

What version of Firefox?


----------



## loony

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


What version of Firefox?


3.0.8 why? I understand that the CPU goes 100% when encoding stuff, but when watching a DVD is a little weird to me. Is it normal for it do that?


----------



## Blitz6804

Because some older versions of Firefox were prone to memory and processor leaks. Do you have the newest versions of Flash and Shockwave installed? As to the DVD: it is possible. If your graphics card, or its driver, lacks hardware acceleration, your CPU is doing the heavy lifting of the DVD rather than the graphics card.


----------



## loony

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Because some older versions of Firefox were prone to memory and processor leaks. Do you have the newest versions of Flash and Shockwave installed? As to the DVD: it is possible. If your graphics card, or its driver, lacks hardware acceleration, your CPU is doing the heavy lifting of the DVD rather than the graphics card.


Yeah i've got latest everything. And I even have latest Linux Nvidia drivers 180.11. Do you think i should just not worry about it?


----------



## Blitz6804

It might just be hardware at this point; I do not think the 6600 GT is taking its rightful acceleration duties. Is there an option to do so in the DVD player?


----------



## loony

I managed to drop it to 60%, i switched the output to use X11


----------



## Blitz6804

Whatever works. What was it using prior to X11?


----------



## loony

the default!? Well thats what VLC said lol.


----------



## Blitz6804

Pure software I think. X11 provides acceleration of some flavor. (Much like Windows variants can use OpenGL or DirectX.)


----------



## loony

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Pure software I think. X11 provides acceleration of some flavor. (Much like Windows variants can use OpenGL or DirectX.)

I tried OpenGL but everytime i would click the play button, the video quit.


----------



## Blitz6804

The proprietary driver might not be functioning properly. Unfortunately, I lack the skill to help fix that.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey guys... I'm not much of a linux Gnu guy but I'm wondering if you may have a virus that is embeded some how and using your cpu in the background. Does linux have a user based GUI that will display all of the systems loaded ram files that are being used by the system... I don't have any linux based experience either so I'm not much help but if you have a virus scanner I might try to give that a look over... I have a Leadtek 6600 winfast card w/256MB ram that is my dailiy driver... How much ram does the card have? I only use xp so I would not be able to test my system and compare it w/you unless you have some kind of source for a live cd that I can load up and compare notes w/u...


----------



## BlackOmega

Thats the first thing I do when I have unaccounted for CPU usage. That helps me narrow down the file and sometimes it might just be a corrupted driver.


----------



## Blitz6804

N2Gaming: Unless the user is a complete idiot, Linux cannot get a virus in it. You are required to expressly authorize even a minor change to the computer with an administrator password.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Thats the first thing I do when I have unaccounted for CPU usage. That helps me narrow down the file and sometimes it might just be a corrupted driver.


Yup prior to knowing all you guys and some extensive help from a classified user







" that tought me a lot about some things " I was not able to do any thing like see what my computer was doing w/loaded files. ... I have to say that I have been slacking off since and need to get back into it.... California has a program for peop's w/disabilities and I may be getting into a program here in a minute to see if I can be retrained into the computer tech industry... It would be nice to have the knowledge/experience and some ceritficates to back it up come time to get a job... I have a interview a week from tomarrow to see what is involved in the program but they told me they also offer job placement assistance... Man it sure would be nice if I could get assisted into a state or government job w/kick azz benefits and retirement package... I know before any one say's any thing nothing in life is forever or marked in stone so I can't depend on a single job w/a retirement because the rug could be pulled from under neith me at any moment...









EDIT:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


N2Gaming: Unless the user is a complete idiot, Linux cannot get a virus in it. You are required to expressly authorize even a minor change to the computer with an administrator password.


Sorry I forgot linux is a freeware OS based off of the government version OS of Unix... Unless of course the user downloaded a free copy of the os that has been moded prior to installation like from a torrent sight or something along those lines...

Sorry guys it's easter: Happy easter all!!! I'm a few bullets to the wind atm. Let me edit my jarbled text above so that it makes sense...

Edit #3 I just found this regarding WD HDD prolems and thought it might be some good info to know...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Sorry guys it's easter: Happy easter all!!! I'm a few bullets to the wind atm. Let me edit my jarbled text above so that it makes sense...

Edit #3 I just found this regarding WD HDD prolems and thought it might be some good info to know...


N2Gaming, thanks for including that link. Interesting read









Happy Easter everyone!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *loony*


Guys, i think i have a problem. I keep getting 50% processor usage while watching vids on youtube and 100% when i watch a DVD. This can't be right can it?


Loony, sorry for the late response. I jumped onto youtube to see if I could recreate the same CPU usage. I was watching a few A-10 clips and my processor usage was between 27%-50%. I'm also running FireFox 3.0.8. I think this is pretty common for youtube usage at least for my other machine at work.

I can imagine 100% for burning a dvd but not watching it. That kind of doesn't sound right










Good luck


----------



## loony

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Loony, sorry for the late response. I jumped onto youtube to see if I could recreate the same CPU usage. I was watching a few A-10 clips and my processor usage was between 27%-50%. I'm also running FireFox 3.0.8. I think this is pretty common for youtube usage at least for my other machine at work.

I can imagine 100% for burning a dvd but not watching it. That kind of doesn't sound right









Good luck


Yeah I think what happened was that the CPU was doing all the work. I managed to change some settings in VLC to use X11 and that dropped usage down to 50% so im happy with that


----------



## BlackOmega

Right on N2 I hope that works out for you. That'd be pretty cool









Happy Easter th|nk3r









And GJ on finding your problem loony.


----------



## loony

Happy Easter fella's. Hope everyone had a good one!!!


----------



## Blitz6804

I do not know about the rest of you, but I was completely by myself for Easter. At least I had decent food, and good wine. Proof:










I will take this time to again remind everyone of the party at my place this September 3rd. You should really book tickets now while you can, while they are still affordable. The preferred airport is BUF, but ROC or YYZ are both possible. (YYZ requires a passport.)


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I do not know about the rest of you, but I was completely by myself for Easter. At least I had decent food, and good wine. Proof:










I will take this time to again remind everyone of the party at my place this September 3rd. You should really book tickets now while you can, while they are still affordable. The preferred airport is BUF, but ROC or YYZ are both possible. (YYZ requires a passport.)










Wow, looks good!


----------



## Tator Tot

Party @ Blitz's? 
Ha. 
I slept most of easter, but the food you made looks good Blitz, minus the peas. 
They look icky.

Tator does not support the eating of Peas. 
Say no to Peas, say Yes to Tots.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tator tot*


o.o
party @ blitz's? 
Ha. 
I slept most of easter, but the food you made looks good blitz, minus the peas. 
They look icky.

Tator does not support the eating of peas. 
*Say no to peas, say yes to tots.*


qft


----------



## Blitz6804

Easter dinner in my family (of which my cooking is a bit of a farce) usually includes mashed potatoes. I, however, was too lazy to make.

And yes Tator; Socket 939 party at my place on September 3, 2009. Persons 21-or-older may drink. Please help with booze costs. All are invited to bring their rigs for massive LAN party. We can all crash on the floor, or if you and a significant other (wife, husband, GF/BF, whatever) want more privacy, the closest hotel is $45/night.


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz, sorry I won't be able to make it out there. Can't really take time off of work. If you were local I'd definitely show up for the weekend.

In regards to food, for Easter we had Mexican food









Back on computer talk, I'm putting another system together. I miss playing CS:S...I have a old X850 that hope get's me through until I can repair a damaged 1950Pro. One would think solid caps wouldn't bulge and leak but in this case it was different. I'll include pictures and show the progress of the repair. Hopefully I can bring it back to life.

Good luck


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


N2Gaming: Unless the user is a complete idiot, Linux cannot get a virus in it. You are required to expressly authorize even a minor change to the computer with an administrator password.


























Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


I'll include pictures and show the progress of the repair. Hopefully I can bring it back to life.

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

I'll have to see how everythings going with the new baby (due in 11 days), that will dictate whether I can go away for a weekend or not. 
And I might just drive, I was looking at a map and if I go through Canada I dont think it'll take any longer than 4 hours (I'm right around Detroit).


----------



## BlackOmega

Ok fellas, I'm trying to network my gaming rig and my folding rig. I want to use the folding rig as the host as it'll be the one thats on all the time. 
SO at any rate heres what I've done so far. I've got both the computers hooked up and had them both running. I ran the network wizard in the host rig and it went through without a hitch and I restarted it. Then I ran network wizard on my gaming rig and when it gets to this screen (see attached) it says that its not connected.







I've tried using both of the ports on my gaming rig. Also, when I plug the cable in it tells me that its try to aquire a network address, it fails to do so. Even when I go through the properties and try to repair the connection it says it can't.
I'm new to setting up networks so be gentle


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Easter dinner in my family (of which my cooking is a bit of a farce) usually includes mashed potatoes. I, however, was too lazy to make.

And yes Tator; Socket 939 party at my place on September 3, 2009. Persons 21-or-older may drink. Please help with booze costs. All are invited to bring their rigs for massive LAN party. We can all crash on the floor, or if you and a significant other (wife, husband, GF/BF, whatever) want more privacy, the closest hotel is $45/night.

I'd be interested in going, but my 939 stuff just got shipped out today, would my AM2+ rig be allowed?


----------



## Blitz6804

It would be hypocritical fro me to say no.


----------



## BlackOmega

bah deleted


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Ok fellas, I'm trying to network my gaming rig and my folding rig. I want to use the folding rig as the host as it'll be the one thats on all the time.
SO at any rate heres what I've done so far. I've got both the computers hooked up and had them both running. I ran the network wizard in the host rig and it went through without a hitch and I restarted it. Then I ran network wizard on my gaming rig and when it gets to this screen (see attached) it says that its not connected.







I've tried using both of the ports on my gaming rig. Also, when I plug the cable in it tells me that its try to aquire a network address, it fails to do so. Even when I go through the properties and try to repair the connection it says it can't.
I'm new to setting up networks so be gentle









BlackOmega, can you be a little bit more descriptive on why you're wanting to network your gaming rig and folding rig? Sorry I'm just a little confused...

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, can you be a little bit more descriptive on why you're wanting to network your gaming rig and folding rig? Sorry I'm just a little confused...

Good luck


 Mainly because I'm too cheap to go and buy another 2 15FT. CAT5 cables. Aside from that it would make a bigger wire mess, where as I can just use 2 3 ft cat5's. The rigs will all be basically next to each other.

And the reason I want to make the folder the Host is because it'll be running 24/7. My gaming rig will only be on when I'm using it. Not to mention when actively folding and using the internet my PPD drop 400-500 points.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Mainly because I'm too cheap to go and buy another 2 15FT. CAT5 cables. Aside from that it would make a bigger wire mess, where as I can just use 2 3 ft cat5's. The rigs will all be basically next to each other.

And the reason I want to make the folder the Host is because it'll be running 24/7. My gaming rig will only be on when I'm using it. Not to mention when actively folding and using the internet my PPD drop 400-500 points.

BlackOmega, are you trying to connect your gaming machine to your folder via crossover cable?

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

ITs just a short cat5 cable. Is that a crossover? I have no idea. Im really new to networking so Im not sure of the lingo. I mean Ive hooked several computers to routers and such but never one to another.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


ITs just a short cat5 cable. Is that a crossover? I have no idea. Im really new to networking so Im not sure of the lingo. I mean Ive hooked several computers to routers and such but never one to another.


If you are trying to go one computer directly to another, then you need to use a crossover cable. Sounds like that's your issue







. If you are using a regular old CAT5 cable, then you'll need a hub/switch/router to network them together.


----------



## simfreak47

When I set up a network that isn't connected to the internet, I use a Netgear 5 port hub. Works nicely.


----------



## thlnk3r

BlackOmega, are you wanting both machines to use the same internet connection? If that is the case then yes as Pioneer stated you'll need to pick up a cable/dsl router. Sorry I thought you were trying something completely different









Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Whats the difference between a cat5 cable and crossover cable? And why would I even need it? IF the machines are connected then it should work as long as all the settings are set accordingly I would assume.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Whats the difference between a cat5 cable and crossover cable? And why would I even need it?


BlackOmega, a crossover cable is required if you're wanting to connect to devices together (ie. two computers, storage devices). There are quite a few applications out there that require a crossover cable. Here are more details on this specific cable: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethernet_crossover_cable.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Omega you can make a crossover cable w/an existing cable laying around... all you have to do is cut the cable in half and then switch two pairs of cables to cross link thus creating a crossover cable... You may have to do that... I would start by seing if you have any connection in your network properties in the nic port from the hosting pc... I was doing this a while back when I opted to use my two pc's w/out my router or hub... a router or hub has a built in cross over circuit for you... you only need to wory about 4 cables or essencially 2 twisted pairs of cables... I can dig up a diagram or you can google how to make a cross over cable and you should find several links to show you what cables get crossed. I think it's 2 to 7 and 3 to five but it's been so long since I maid one I forgot which cables get crossed. The other 4 cables are disregarded...

EDIT: Here is a link to how to make a cross over cable... I was off a bit but never the less I was close... You can just cut the cables and twist them back together 1-3 and 2-6 and the other cables 4,5.7 & 8 are not needed... I have a surplus of cables from my days of shopping in the pc salvage/recyler store I must have got about 15-20 cables for dirt cheap... Alot of them only have 2 twisted pair or 4 cables... They call 2 wires a twisted pair like on your telephone cable... You only have one twisted pair per telephone line. So if you have 2 telephone lines you would have 2 twisted pairs like a rj45 cable that would be up to 100 Base T I'm not sure if 1000 Base T uses all four pairs or not...

EDIT: the link above did not work after I tried it... It looks down so I'm gonna try to copy and paste the info from that link in this post..








This guide is a *DIY* to create a crossover ethernet cable. While a normal ethernet cable is used to connect a PC to a router / modem / network, a crossover cable can be used to enable direct communication between two computers. This is a very low cost solution to enable communication between two computers directly without the need of intermediate hardware. It is for file sharing, LAN gaming and controlling remote computers.
A normal ethernet cable allows only one way data transmissions while a crossover cable allows both way data transmission.
This is achieved by connecting the transmission pins (TX+ & TX-) of one end to the receiving pins(RX+ & RX-) of the other end. In a normal ethernet cable, this is done internally by the hub / switch or the router.
In a normal RJ45 / CAT5 ethernet cable, the pins are marked as 1. TX+, 2. TX-, 3. RX+, 6. RX- at both ends. To create a crossover ethernet cable we just connect the TX pins to the corresponding RX pins. In effect, we swap wires at the pins 1-3 and 2-6.
In a normal ethernet cable,
We have the following pin configuration at both ends:
1: *TX+*
2: *TX-*
3: *RX+*
6: *RX-*







While in a crossover cable, we have:
Crossover
1: *TX+* <--> 3: *RX+*
2: *TX-* <--> 6: *RX-*
3: *RX+* <--> 1: *TX+*
6: *RX-* <--> 2: *TX-*
We let the Pins 4,5,7,8 remain unaltered.
*To make a crossover cable, you need:*
A standard RJ45 / CAT5 ethernet cable

RJ45 connectors for both ends.








Just take of the connectors, if already present, from one end of the ethernet cable. Strip off some wire from the open end and arrange the wires, swapped as explained earlier. Just insert them in the spare RJ45 connector and connect them to the pins properly. Just apply some force on the connector and it should click into place. You can also use a crimper to attach the RJ45 connector to the other end tightly.
At this stage your crossover cable is complete and you are all set to create your own small sharing network. Frag on!
Notes:
1. The maximum length of RJ45 ethernet cables is limited to 100M in theory and a lot lesser than that in reality. If the distance is longer than that, you may need to use repeaters.
2. Make sure that the cable is not twisted at any point.


----------



## BlackOmega

THanks guys. imaginary rep to you thinker









Well the cable that I'm using to connect the 2 turns out to be a patch cable. Is that the same thing as a crossover?and it is the T568B wiring config.

But when I was reading that article it said that theyre somewhat doing away with that because of all the connectivity issues.

Im going to give something a go here that one of my instructors suggested and if that doesnt work, Ill have to go dig out a cable that I shot a staple through last year when I was wiring up my apt and was stapling it to the ceiling.







It was a 30ft cable too.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well the cable that I'm using to connect the 2 turns out to be a patch cable. Is that the same thing as a crossover?and it is the T568B wiring config.


BlackOmega, what is physically labeled on the patch cable? If it's Cat5 or Cat5e then you're fine.

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

This is exactly what it says on it,SPACE SHUTTLE-C MULTI-LAN VERIFIED (UL) CAT5 PATCH CABLE AND ETL TO TIA/EIA-568B.2 4UTP 24AWG STRANDED CM

Then theres some more stuff but all that says is temp and voltage.


----------



## N2Gaming

Omega another reason for the crossover cable is this... your nic has to send data through two wires and receive data through two wires and if you don't cross the connections then both computers will bee sending and recieving on the same signall so basically the data traveling on the lines will not get received at either computer... It's like a high way that you drive your car on north bound highway is the send and NO no no what am I thinking w/that analogy??? Um let me try it a different way... Ok lets say each of your computers have a bucket of water per computer and you want to transfer the water from one computer to the other and you want to do it for both computers at the same time then you need a cross over plumbing tubes. Now if your still w/me here. You would have a water pump on both pc's sending water " your data " to each other but if your pumps were both sending water against each other in the same tubes then there would never be any transferation of water because you don't have any where for the water to go... To sum it up you have to have an positive flow of water and a intake on the other end so that the water does not colide into each other during the transferation from one bucket to the other... So if you shoot streams of water that do not touch each other then you get no interferance in the stream of water and it reaches it's destination This is one way of looking at it... although it's not a good idea to have water around a computer unless well scratch that idea too because now a days they have H2O cooling and so on but what I was getting at is water on the circuits as every one knows is not good...

Any way I hope that I helped you learn something today that you did not already know.

Good Luck w/the Crossover cable... BTW don't be afraid to cut into your cables and twist them back together w/electrical tape. You can always switch them back very easily as they are color coded...


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Omega another reason for the crossover cable is this... your nic has to send data through two wires and receive data through two wires and if you don't cross the connections then both computers will bee sending and recieving on the same signall so basically the data traveling on the lines will not get received at either computer... It's like a high way that you drive your car on north bound highway is the send and NO no no what am I thinking w/that analogy??? Um let me try it a different way... Ok lets say each of your computers have a bucket of water per computer and you want to transfer the water from one computer to the other and you want to do it for both computers at the same time then you need a cross over plumbing tubes. Now if your still w/me here. You would have a water pump on both pc's sending water " your data " to each other but if your pumps were both sending water against each other then there would never be any transferation of water because you don't have any where for the water to go... To sum it up you have to have an positive flow of water and a intake on the other end so that the water does not colide into each other during the transferation from one bucket to the other... So if you shoot streams of water that do not touch each other then you get no interferance in the stream of water and it reaches it's destination This is one way of looking at it... although it's not a good idea to have water around a computer unless well scratch that idea too because now a days they have H2O cooling and so on but what I was getting at is water on the circuits as every one knows is not good...

Any way I hope that I helped you learn something today that you did not already know.

Good Luck w/the Crossover cable... BTW don't be afraid to cut into your cables and twist them back together w/electrical tape. You can always switch them back very easily as they are color coded...


 I was following you through the higway analogy too .







Basically w/o an x-over cable the signals will either both be transmitting and neither one receiving or vice cersa. 
As for your higway analogy it would go something like, 1 computer sends out a car on the NB lane heading north. The other computer sends out a car on the same NB lane heading south. Since they will eventually collide neither will get to their final destination.









You on board that blue train ?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I was following you through the higway analogy too .







Basically w/o an x-over cable the signals will either both be transmitting and neither one receiving or vice cersa. 
As for your higway analogy it would go something like, 1 computer sends out a car on the NB lane heading north. The other computer sends out a car on the same NB lane heading south. Since they will eventually collide neither will get to their final destination.









You on board that blue train ?










Yup, you got it... Now what is the blue train?

OK take another look back at this Post.


----------



## N2Gaming

Nope but I can already imagine the taste of those two cool refreshing blue trains... Starts salavating instantly and put's pepsi down, heads to fridge and get a bullet.


----------



## nategr8ns

I thought all you had to do was tell the host to bridge the connection







...


----------



## HothBase

My Pentium II rig is connected to the internet through my main one by a regular CAT5 cable that came with my router. I just ran the Internet Connection Sharing Wizard on both machines and that was that, no problem.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


My Pentium II rig is connected to the internet through my main one by a regular CAT5 cable that came with my router. I just ran the Internet Connection Sharing Wizard on both machines and that was that, no problem.


Good call, that is what I was trying to think of last night but could not remember what it was called. I think I have also been able to do this w/out any crossover cable but I can't be sure just yet... Let me get out my cable that I used last time to see if in fact it is a crossover or not. I do remember the cable not working normally through the router...

I'll be back in a while w/my findings..

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


My Pentium II rig is connected to the internet through my main one by a regular CAT5 cable that came with my router. I just ran the Internet Connection Sharing Wizard on both machines and that was that, no problem.


I think was happens is the host computer OS turns the host into a virtual router and thus making the nic port that connects to the other computer essencially a virtual crossover nic port...

Does any one know any thing about this theory of mine..

Thank you,

N2G

EDIT:

OK BO/guys I just tested the last cable that did not work w/the router after hooking it back up and it is def a bad cable not a crossover cable so you may want to try to test your cables w/DMM to make sure you are getting contact at both ends of the RJ45 connectors w/an ohm test... I use the ohm buzzer test for continuity and the first two pins on the cable worked fine and the rest did nothing... No crossing over just dead... Try to test your cable w/a Good Ohm meter if you have one to start w/just to make sure you have good connection at both ends of the cable. If you need pictures I can prvide them... I don't think you will need them though you are a pretty sharp knife...


----------



## BlackOmega

Well I kept messing around with it last night and got it connected, sort of, on both computers it says theyre both connected @ 400Mbps but on the client machine it cant connect to the network. It says that my host machine is not accepting connections or is malfunctioning







damnit I might just have to buy another cat5 after all.


----------



## thlnk3r

N2Gaming, are you thinking of "smoothwall"? You'll need at least (2) network interface cards to do this. It basically turns the host machine into a router. I was thinking about running this with my environment at home but it has limitations. At the moment I'm just looking for a cheapy cisco 2611.

Good luck guys


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Well I kept messing around with it last night and got it connected, sort of, on both computers it says theyre both connected @ 400Mbps but on the client machine it cant connect to the network. It says that my host machine is not accepting connections or is malfunctioning







damnit I might just have to buy another cat5 after all.

BO are both pc's set up w/DHCP... If your host pc does not give the client pc a IP address then the client pc will not be able to connect through the host for gaming etc...

Also did you check your cable yet to make sure it's not defective. If the cable is good then their really is no reason to buy another cable. Save that money for ram or a decent router down the road... I found a Linksys WRT54GS for $20.00 on craigslist... Totally by accident but was stoked never the less... I did not have to pay shipping because it was local. Any way I think you are better off w/a router then you are spending more money on cables... I mean cables can be pricie but they are just cheap cables... If you are paying more then $3.00 for a cable then you are spending too much...









thlk3r, No I was not thinking of smoothwall but instead of using xp to do the same thing. Thanks for the link. I never heard of that until you linked it...


----------



## BlackOmega

Well I already have a router, so I could just hook that up I suppose. Or maybe I'll spend some time with that 30ft cable and see if I can find where I shot the staple through it. 
And yeah my last 15ft cable cost me like a $1/ft. but it was some fancy shmancy thing. I might just run over to U of M property disposition and see what I can find over there. I need a new DVD combo drive and another small monitor. Or some sort of splitter with a switch to where I can switch back and forth between computers. But I'd think it would be cool to have some sort of little 12" monitor though. And the way my desk is set up I dont really have room on it for another one. Well not without modification. THen I could set up 2 22" and 1 26".


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Or some sort of splitter with a switch to where I can switch back and forth between computers. But I'd think it would be cool to have some sort of little 12" monitor though. And the way my desk is set up I dont really have room on it for another one. Well not without modification. THen I could set up 2 22" and 1 26".


BlackOmega, if you're wanting to save space then set the other desktop up for remote access. You can simply right-click on _My Computer_, go to the _Remote_ tab and make sure the check box next to, "_Allow users to connect remotely to this computer_" is checked. Your user account has to be password protected in order for this to work. Also make sure you have RDP version 6 installed on the client machine.

Grab the IP address of the compter you're wanting to connect to. Go to the client machine and click on Start->Run and type in, "mstsc" (terminal server connection). Type in the IP address, click _Connect_. Type in the _username_ and _password_ and click _Ok_. That should remotely connect you to that box. If you're needing to shutdown or restart that particular machine just go to run and type "cmd" to bring up the console and type in, "shutdown -s -t 00" or if you want to restart type in, "shutdown -r -t 00". -t is the amount of time in seconds before it shutdowns/restarts. If you want to put a time delay of 10 seconds then put in "-t 10".

There's no point on having multiple monitors. Just access them remotely. A KVM is useful if you need to make physical changes in the BIOS or if you're OS'ing the machine. All you need is a power cable and ethernet cable









Good luck


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


..........
There's no point on having multiple monitors. Just access them remotely. A KVM is useful if you need to make physical changes in the BIOS or if you're OS'ing the machine. All you need is a power cable and ethernet cable









Good luck


I'd have to agree here. My file server was accessed by remote desktop. If I ever needed to make a change in the BIOS (never did, but you never know), I'd just unhook my main rig for the time being. Remote Desktop is in my opinion, a really nice feature of Windows.


----------



## Blitz6804

And, if you need to remote access without being on the LAN, I personally use Anyplace Control, a steal at $20 per license. Nothing is cooler than being able to access your desktop while sitting in class. It requires that you open only two router ports per computer you wish to access from outside the router; none if you are in a LAN setup. Unlike with Remote Access, APC logs you in a Window, such that you can still use all the features of your desktop while the remote desktop is a small window on your monitor you can manipulate. It runs great in XP. Aside of some annoyances, it works well in Vista.


----------



## BlackOmega

Good morning gentlemen! I have great news! My wife is having our second baby today!







I just wanted to let you guys know









-Omega.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

BlackOmega, congrats!


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Good morning gentlemen! I have great news! My wife is having our second baby today!







I just wanted to let you guys know









-Omega.






















































































:appl aud:


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Good morning gentlemen! I have great news! My wife is having our second baby today!







I just wanted to let you guys know









-Omega.

BlackOmega, congrats on that. Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Good morning gentlemen! I have great news! My wife is having our second baby today!







I just wanted to let you guys know









-Omega.

Do you have your catchers gear on...







I have never had the pleasure of having to catch a baby...

All jokes aside, I hope everything goes well with the delivery and the baby is as healthy and fit as a fiddle.

Good Luck and congradulations.









N2G

EDIT: I know some of you guys are always on the look out for a decent deal and this one just dropped in my inbox. So I thought I would share it w/ya'll

 
*Now, for a limited time, the BFG LS-450 power supply is only $49.99 with FREE GROUND SHIPPING! (Save $40!)*
*Use coupon code, "LS450SAVE" during checkout.
*



80 Plus Certified

Quiet 120MM Fan

Rated at continuous output at 40C

All cables fully sleeved

HardOCP Editor's Choice Gold Award


Recommended by JonnyGURU.com (9.5/10 Score)

*Only available through the BFG Store.*
Order yours today!

Prices, configurations, promotions, and availability may change without notice. BFG Technologies cannot be held responsible for pricing discrepancies due to errors in website functionality or errors in photography or typography. All product photos are for illustrative purposes only. Taxes and shipping charges not shown. All sales are subject to BFG Technologies' Terms and Conditions of Sale located at http://www.bfgstore.com/help.asp. BFG Tech, the BFG Tech logo, OC, are trademarks or registered trademarks of BFG Technologies, Inc. Other trademarks, registered trademarks, trade names and logos are the property of their respective owners. 28690 Ballard Drive Lake Forest, Illinois 60045. Unsubscribe to this email

>


----------



## AllenG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
BO are both pc's set up w/DHCP... If your host pc does not give the client pc a IP address then the client pc will not be able to connect through the host for gaming etc...

Also did you check your cable yet to make sure it's not defective. If the cable is good then their really is no reason to buy another cable. Save that money for ram or a decent router down the road... I found a Linksys WRT54GS for $20.00 on craigslist... Totally by accident but was stoked never the less... I did not have to pay shipping because it was local. Any way I think you are better off w/a router then you are spending more money on cables... I mean cables can be pricie but they are just cheap cables... If you are paying more then $3.00 for a cable then you are spending too much...









thlk3r, No I was not thinking of smoothwall but instead of using xp to do the same thing. Thanks for the link. I never heard of that until you linked it...

Dont waste your time with the xp router setup, xp makes a horrible router. Scrounge around, find an old pentium 3 based machine or something, slap two nic's in it and download and install "pfSense" best router distro i have used so far.

The wrt54g routers are cool, and can have their software modified to do cool things, but they just dont hold a candle to a pfSense based router... everything will be slower with a 54g router, i replaced mine with a pfSense machine, all i use the 54g router for anymore is as a mac address restricted access point... the pfSense box does all the real work.


----------



## AllenG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Good morning gentlemen! I have great news! My wife is having our second baby today!







I just wanted to let you guys know









-Omega.

Congratulations!!!


----------



## N2Gaming

Here is a good review of the power supply listed in my last post.


----------



## thlnk3r

N2Gaming, I found another great review that covers the 550w and 450w units here: http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php...Story&reid=135. From what I read it looks like these are solid power supplies.

Thanks for sharing


----------



## N2Gaming

Nice and the bottom line of that review.

Quote:


*BFG LS450*
*Performance (40% of the final score)* - in the LS450, BFG has a very sound and well performing product with only some minor issues to complain about. Those issues are the so-so performance in the overshoot transient tests and the poor performance in the crossload tests. But, those are only minor issues and again I can't go around knocking blue cars for not being green, and not being something they're not intended to be. If that made any sense at all. So, I'm going to give the LS450 a good solid *9*.
*Functionality (20% of the final score)* - six SATA connectors, six Molex connectors, and a PCI-E 6 pin connector all combine to start things out right. Things finish out right too thanks to the complete and well done sleeving that goes right up inside the case. I would have preferred to have some sort of marking on the 20+4 pin ATX connector though to denote which end is supposed to get the +4 part, for I can see some poor half asleep shmoe out there trying to plug this in wrong due to the wire length being long enough to go to either end of the 20 pin part of the connector. So, this unit gets a half point pulled. *9.5*.
*Value (30% of the final score)* - Provantage is offering this unit at $54.42 as I sit here typing this. That makes it not only cheaper than the Corsair VX450, but cheaper than the CX400 as well. Guys, you can't lose at that price. *10*.
*Aesthetics (10% of the final score)* - matte black. Cables sleeved all the way into the case. No big stickers and labels in obvious places to mess up the gorgeous minimalistic looks of this unit. Another *10*.
Performance
9
Functionality
9.5
Value
10
Aesthetics
10
*Total Score*

*9.5*









*Summary*
BFG's new LS450 is a hard unit to hate. On one hand, you could complain about the terrible crossloading habits, but then again you could easily end up paying another forty bucks for an independently regulated unit that doesn't have those problems. All in all, I just can't find any really compelling reason why this unit isn't the one to watch in the fifty dollar market segment. It's easy to do worse and hard to do better at that price. You'll want to tango the night away (olÃ©!) with the money you saved.

*The Good:*

excellent ripple/noise suppression
shallow enough for smaller cases
good looking
very stable under normal balanced loads
*The Bad:*

can't take a crossload without going all screwy
*The Mediocre:*

Falco did a song with Brigitte Nielson. Seriously. _Brigitte Nielsen_. Think about that. On second thought, it's probably better that you didn't.

I'm not at all familiar w/crossload... Sorry I'm the kind of guy who reads half of the first page of a review and then skips right to the end/final conclusion/results... So if the reviewer explained what Crossload is then I skipped over it... I don't know if I like how they save on production cost by using the wire to increased current flow accross the fat trace. Never the less I'm sure that is one of the many tricks of the trade used to cut cost and keep up the performance of this unit...









N2G


----------



## pez

I just remembered. You guy should probably move me to the nostalgic section now







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Nvm


----------



## Blitz6804

Pez: If you really want me to Pez, I will move you.

N2Gaming: Crossload: you put very high load on the 12 V rail, and low load on the 3.3 / 5 V rails. And/or, a very high load on 3.3 / 5 V and low load on the 12 V rail.


----------



## Hueristic

Crossload is how the amperage is split up between the 3/5 and 12v rails.

Older psu's have more amperage dedicated to 5 and 3 volt rails thereby haveing a higher watt rateing yet haveing a lower 12v rail which is the most important these days.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Pez: If you really want me to Pez, I will move you.

N2Gaming: Crossload: you put very high load on the 12 V rail, and low load on the 3.3 / 5 V rails. And/or, a very high load on 3.3 / 5 V and low load on the 12 V rail.



Oh thanks blitz, so basically it's not gonna be very overclocker friendly to people who have sli/multi hdd's and cpu's that draw a lot of power like the Opteron 180 etc etc.. all in the same rig... So maybe if you are just looking for a good folding PSU then this could possibly be a winner...









EDIT:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Crossload is how the amperage is split up between the 3/5 and 12v rails.

Older psu's have more amperage dedicated to 5 and 3 volt rails thereby haveing a higher watt rateing yet haveing a lower 12v rail which is the most important these days.


So if I'm understaning you correctly then the older power supplies were designed w/a lot of periferals in mind I.E. floppies, HDD's Iomega zips's etc and now a days pc's require a healthier 12v rail for video cards and things of the sort.


----------



## Blitz6804

I do not know if they were designed to run more peripherals. I think what it is that nowadays, graphics cards have higher 12 V requirements, and so the power supplies provide more 12 V amperage. Back in the day, graphics cards had a floppy connector to power them, if anything at all. It was not until my fourth graphics card that I got a floppy connector. Not until my sixth that needed a PCIe connector.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


So if I'm understaning you correctly then the older power supplies were designed w/a lot of periferals in mind I.E. floppies, HDD's Iomega zips's etc and now a days pc's require a healthier 12v rail for video cards and things of the sorts.










More hard drives multi cpu's and so on. the 12v rail was not as loaded.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I do not know if they were designed to run more peripherals. I think what it is that nowadays, graphics cards have higher 12 V requirements, and so the power supplies provide more 12 V amperage. Back in the day, graphics cards had a floppy connector to power them, if anything at all. It was not until my fourth graphics card that I got a floppy connector. Not until my seventh that needed a PCIe connector.


yup, looks like we cross posted.


----------



## Blitz6804

Hueristic: Great minds think alike?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Hueristic: Great minds think alike?


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks guys, I have been edgimacated...







Now if I could only down load a spelling app into my brain


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Back in the day, graphics cards had a floppy connector to power them

Blitz, what graphics cards required a FDD power connector? I don't I've ever seen one.


----------



## Blitz6804

My ATi Radeon 9700 was of note.









(Image courtesy of PCStat's review of the 9700.)


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz, oh yes I completely forgot about the ol'9700. I think that was the only one right? The 9800 Pro (which I owned) was a 4-pin HDD type connector. Man those were the good days. When the 9700Pro came out, it dominated...literally









Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

My Dad, true to his form, whenever I got an upgrade, he would immediately thereafter upgrade. I replaced my XP 3200+ with my Athlon64 3200+ with a Radeon 9700. A week later, my dad bought a P4 @ 3.0 GHz with a Radeon 9800. Figures.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
My Dad, true to his form, whenever I got an upgrade, he would immediately thereafter upgrade. I replaced my XP 3200+ with my Athlon64 3200+ with a Radeon 9700. A week later, my dad bought a P4 @ 3.0 GHz with a Radeon 9800. Figures.

Blitz, that's actually what I was running for the longest. I had a P4 Northwood 3Ghz on a MSI 875P chipset and the 9800Pro. I paid $380 for the 9800Pro and it was top of the line.

Video cards can be such a waste of money sometimes


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz, that's actually what I was running for the longest. I had a P4 Northwood 3Ghz on a MSI 875P chipset and the 9800Pro. I paid $380 for the 9800Pro and it was top of the line.

Video cards can be such a waste of money sometimes









My first build was a P4 2.66 Northwood, MSI 875P, & 9700Pro. With 2x256mb Kingston RAM.

I think I paid 250$ for the 9700Pro.

Now it just sits around and gets dusty....


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz, that's actually what I was running for the longest. I had a P4 Northwood 3Ghz on a MSI 875P chipset and the 9800Pro. I paid $380 for the 9800Pro and it was top of the line.

*Video cards can be such a waste of money sometimes*









Sometimes?









The way I see it, this is the dumbest "upgrade" most of the time, since this is probably the part of the system which depreciates the fastest. You get only incremental increases in performance with each "new" GPU that comes out, but you often pay through the nose just to keep up with the Joneses...


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Sometimes?









The way I see it, this is the dumbest "upgrade" most of the time, since this is probably the part of the system which depreciates the fastest. You get only incremental increases in performance with each "new" GPU that comes out, but you often pay through the nose just to keep up with the Joneses...


And why do you think I'm still running my HD2600pro?

Besides, all I do is play source games all day, and I get 60+ FPS in all of those games anyways....


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, oh yes I completely forgot about the ol'9700. I think that was the only one right? The 9800 Pro (which I owned) was a 4-pin HDD type connector. Man those were the good days. When the 9700Pro came out, it dominated...literally









Good luck


Nope. My X1600 also did it.









(Image courtesy of TigerDirect's page)

The first card I had that lacked the floppy connector was my X1950XGE. (Sorry; typo in my earlier post, it was my 6th card, not 7th.) That had a 6-pin PCIe connector even though it was AGP. My HD 3850 AGP (7th) had an 8-pin. My HD 3850s PCIe (8th/9th) had 6-pin. And lastly, my HD 4870x2 has a 6-pin and an 8-pin.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


The way I see it, this is the dumbest "upgrade" since you often pay through the nose just to keep up with the Joneses...












Marketing and new game coding controlls most of that I'm sure... It seems like a marketing ploy to keep sqweezing the little guys for their hard earned money...


----------



## pez

Me? I don't have my 939 rig anymore







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Me? I don't have my 939 rig anymore







.


Oh OK then get lost trader...







Joking just kidding... I would sell all my 939 gear if I had to but I don't atm...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


You get only incremental increases in performance with each "new" GPU that comes out, but you often pay through the nose just to keep up with the Joneses...


Joe, literally incremental increases. I saw little if not no difference with my 3850 and 4850. I'll admit, I wasted my money









Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Thlnk3r/Joe: I think GPU Tech has its moments. From the 9700 to the X1600 there was a massive leap. From the X1600 to the X1950 XGE, there was next to nothing. From the X1950 XGE to the AGP HD 3850 was a large jump, but not as massive as 9700 to X1600. There was a slight depreciation from the AGP HD 3850 to the PCIe HD 3850. And there was an EPIC leap from a pair of HD 3850s to an HD 4870x2, but that is really a change of graphics card class more than a change in tech level.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Well, it's obvious that you'll see a massive leap forward when talking about skips from old-gen design to new-gen design. By old, I mean at least a couple of years older than the current generation.

My comment was aimed more at people who feel they have to have the latest and greatest at all times. That's when upgrading is stupid and wasteful, in my opinion. But then again, I'm not spending that money.

(Mommy and Daddy are, probably...







)


----------



## pez

Haha going from when I had a 8600GT to a 9800GT was actually a big leap. And yeah, i didn't have to sell my rig, but eventually I'm going quad core on this beast. The mobo supports DDR2 1333 memory. xP


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Haha going from when I had a 8600GT to a 9800GT was actually a big leap. And yeah, i didn't have to sell my rig, but eventually I'm going quad core on this beast. The mobo supports DDR2 1333 memory. xP


I noticed a big leap going from a 6600 256 MB to a 8600GTS 512 MB and the same from the 8600 GTS to a 9800GT OC 512 MB

I just called the egg because they have a $20.00 rebate the day after I buy my new mobo. Arg, any way I called their customer service and they are gonna issue me a credit back to my paypal account for the $20.00. How cool is that. I don't have to wait several weeks for a rebate nor do I have to print, fill out & mail my rebate info to some rebate center...

I could not be happier ATM.

Well I take that back I could think of several things that would make me happier but for the moment I'll take what I can get.


----------



## HothBase

I was running a Radeon 9600 up until summer last year, going to the x1950 GT was rather fun.


----------



## loony

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=547556


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


BlackOmega, congrats!











Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*






















































































































Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, congrats on that. Good luck











Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Do you have your catchers gear on...







I have never had the pleasure of having to catch a baby...

All jokes aside, I hope everything goes well with the delivery and the baby is as healthy and fit as a fiddle.

Good Luck and congradulations.









N2G>



Quote:



Originally Posted by *AllenG*


Congratulations!!!


 Thanks guys
















Baby Sampson was born @ 12:37 PM via C-section. He weighed 2.88Kg (6.34 lbs.) and was 19" long. Considering he's about 2.5 weeks early he's in very good shape. I was very relieved. I was worried that he didn't have enough time in the belly, but it turns out that he did.









As for video cards, I probably won't upgrade for ~2-3 years. Hell it took me 3 years just to upgrade from my 6800's. Those in SLI ran CSS and other source games (except TF2) @ 100+fps easily. TF2 would definitely bog them down though. 
I got 2 of those GSO's and those are not bad cards, although I do believe that the CPU was bottlenecking them somewhat. Now they'll be dedicated folders









And the 4870, well that was somewhat of an impulse buy, but I'm very happy with it. Crappy thing is not a month after I got it, it came with a free game and a $30MIR and 20 instant savings on the egg







. C'est la vie.

And my 6800 don't have any power connectors on them. My GSOs' have 1 6 pin and my 4870 2 6pin. I don;t recall if my BFG 6200OC (AGP) had any power connectors







I'll have to check next time I'm over at the folks place.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Congrats BO!!!!

On a side note...I'm STIL smashed from my b-day....so please bear with me otday.


----------



## Blitz6804

I have just updated the off-site roster. Kryton, rammunition, and TheSubtleKnife are now listed. loony's overclock has been updated.

Good job all!


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Congrats BO!!!!

On a side note...I'm STIL smashed from my b-day....so please bear with me otday.








































Wish I still had the Stamina to Party Hardy for my B-DAY!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *loony*


http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=547556


Loony, nicely done on the overclock. I made changes to the roster to reflect your new OC. Have you attempted to push it any further?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Baby Sampson was born @ 12:37 PM via C-section. He weighed 2.88Kg (6.34 lbs.) and was 19" long. Considering he's about 2.5 weeks early he's in very good shape. I was very relieved. I was worried that he didn't have enough time in the belly, but it turns out that he did.










BlackOmega, congrats on the new arrival









Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 





































Wish I still had the Stamina to Party Hardy for my B-DAY!









He has a new girlie girl so he has to show how much party he has in him... you know in the beginning life is all peachy and fun. Then after a few months or years which ever comes first, things start to wind down a little and we go back to our normal self's... Jk Pio Happy belated B-Day


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Congrats BO!!!!

On a side note...I'm STIL smashed from my b-day....so please bear with me otday.


 Thanks Pio!









Lol the last time I partied like that I got pulled over the next morning. The cop asked me if I was drunk or if it was from last night









Happy B-day


----------



## Kryton

Congrats BlackOmega!

It's good to hear mother and child are doing well.








We know the forum and just about everything else will take a backseat for awhile but it really should. 
Just think about it - One day you can teach him how to OC a computer!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Congrats BlackOmega!

It's good to hear mother and child are doing well.








We know the forum and just about everything else will take a backseat for awhile but it really should. 
Just think about it - One day you can teach him how to OC a computer!










 THanks Kryton.








The forum will take a back seat, but seeing as for the next 2 months the baby is going to get up every 2 hours like clockwork I'm sure I'll have several somewhat sleepless night to where I can pop in for a minute.

And I'll most definitely teach both of my boys anything they would want to learn from their old man. Well, almost anything







My wife me to get them in to cars and such (I loved racing when I was younger), but now that I'm a dad I have realized what I must've put my parents through. So unless it is totally vital to their survival and they absolutely need to now how to drive at speed, I don't really want to push the subject. And DEFINITELY no motor cycles. Well maybe dirt bikes when they're kids but no street bikes thats for sure. People around here drive like :turd: as it is.

Well I'll be popping in from time to time.









EDIT: My 3800+ X2 and 2GB of XMS showed up today.







Now the folding rig will have MOAR POWAH!


----------



## loony

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Loony, nicely done on the overclock. I made changes to the roster to reflect your new OC. Have you attempted to push it any further?

I can't get it any more stable. I can boot into windows at 2.5ghz but nothing more. My motherboard is terrible because I can't change the voltage and i'm on stock cooling. My Epox board lets me change voltage and etc, and i got this chip to almost hit 2.6ghz stable on stock cooling, but the usb ports on it have fried and i dont know how to fix it


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *loony* 
I can't get it any more stable. I can boot into windows at 2.5ghz but nothing more. My motherboard is terrible because I can't change the voltage and i'm on stock cooling. My Epox board lets me change voltage and etc, and i got this chip to almost hit 2.6ghz stable on stock cooling, but the usb ports on it have fried and i dont know how to fix it









Sorry to hear that all the usb ports are dead! So you don't even have one usb header working... Maybe you fried the usb chip or some other component that supplies power to the usb chip... Good Luck on that one.

N2G


----------



## loony

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Sorry to hear that all the usb ports are dead! So you don't even have one usb header working... Maybe you fried the usb chip or some other component that supplies power to the usb chip... Good Luck on that one.

N2G

The thing i don't get is, i have usb speakers and they work when plugged into the board, but any other usb device wont


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *loony*


The thing i don't get is, i have usb speakers and they work when plugged into the board, but any other usb device wont










Sounds like you may have disabled a setting in your bios that allows you to use the usb for speakers but not for peripheral... I would try to find your usb options in the bios and change them to see if that makes a difference. You may have to reload your usb drivers/mobo drivers as well. If all that don't work you could always clear cmos and load bios optimized defaults and see if that does the trick.

Good Luck,

N2G

If your trying to use a usb keyboard and mouse then you may have to use the proper jumpers on your mobo if that board has jumpers to select the power of the usb ports.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

loony, it is possible for USB ports to drop out if you push the reference clock too far (especially on chipsets which don't lock their PCI bus frequencies). Sometimes the damage is strictly temporary, and a CMOS reset will restore USB functionality. But there is still the danger of the damage being permanent, especially if the attempt to OC is too aggressive. (This is yet another reason why you have to be cautious with chipsets which don't lock the PCI bus, a point that is all too true for VIA chipsets.)

Good luck.


----------



## loony

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


loony, it is possible for USB ports to drop out if you push the reference clock too far (especially on chipsets which don't lock their PCI bus frequencies). Sometimes the damage is strictly temporary, and a CMOS reset will restore USB functionality. But there is still the danger of the damage being permanent, especially if the attempt to OC is too aggressive. (This is yet another reason why you have to be cautious with chipsets which don't lock the PCI bus, a point that is all too true for VIA chipsets.)

Good luck.










I think i may of fried the USB on it, ive tried all the suggestions. I guess thats what you get from the Nforce 3 ultra


----------



## Blitz6804

Hey, the nForce3 was a good chipset. I was able to take a Toledo almost as high as I could with a Crossfire Xpress 3200. The only thing I lacked was voltage control, which was hardly the fault of the chipset.


----------



## loony

Lol, i kid. The Nforce 3 chipset is excellent IMO heaps better then this crappy VIA chipset i have. I just wish i locked the PCI/AGP lanes. Maybe that explains why my first 6600GT crapped out.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I was under the impression that nF3 had a locked PCI bus frequency, actually.









(Of course, my VIA comments were inspired by my thinking that we were talking about loony's sig rig.







This will hopefully explain my confusion.







)


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes, the nForce3 has a PCI/AGP lock. Thlnk3r's sig rig presently contains the identical model board that I reference. (Mine is sitting in the garage unused.)


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey guys is there a place inside XP windows or any benchmarking software that will tell you if you are running your ram in single of duel channel









blitz raised that question the other day and now I'm just curious because my mobo manual is pretty vague in regards to the dimm slots.


----------



## nategr8ns

BO, congrats again (I can't remember if I congratulated you yet or not







).

Everyone, I'm saying goodbye for the next week. I'll be back home next Monday, but until then I'll be in Italy







. It's sort of a school trip, where two teachers choose some students to go. They do it every year, and the price was too good to pass up (if it hadn't been I wouldn't be going







).
If I have computer+internet access, I'll be sure to update you guys, but I doubt I will.

See y'all later!

edit: N2, CPUz shows single/dual channel in the "Memory" tab under "Channels #."


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


BO, congrats again (I can't remember if I congratulated you yet or not







).

Everyone, I'm saying goodbye for the next week. I'll be back home next Monday, but until then I'll be in Italy







. It's sort of a school trip, where two teachers choose some students to go. They do it every year, and the price was too good to pass up (if it hadn't been I wouldn't be going







).
If I have computer+internet access, I'll be sure to update you guys, but I doubt I will.

See y'all later!

edit: N2, CPUz shows single/dual channel.


Arrivederci, Nate! Avere una buona volta il tuo viaggio!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hey guys is there a place inside XP windows or any benchmarking software that will tell you if you are running your ram in single of duel channel









blitz raised that question the other day and now I'm just curious because my mobo manual is pretty vague in regards to the dimm slots.


Everest Ultimate will tell you, if I'm not mistaken. SiSoft SANDRA would, as well.

Come to think of it, most modern boards won't pass POST at all if RAM is installed in separate channels, if I'm not mistaken.







(Please correct me if I'm wrong here, guys.)


----------



## Blitz6804

As nategr8ns says, on a K8, it shows dual-channel/single-channel in CPU-Z. On a STARS processor, if it shows "ganged" or "unganged," you are in dual-channel mode, and obviously, "single" means you are in single-channel.

Joe: You are mistaken. My 790FX works quite happily with 4 GB in single-channel mode. Bandwidth is pretty abysmal though.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


BO, congrats again (I can't remember if I congratulated you yet or not







).

Everyone, I'm saying goodbye for the next week. I'll be back home next Monday, but until then I'll be in Italy







. It's sort of a school trip, where two teachers choose some students to go. They do it every year, and the price was too good to pass up (if it hadn't been I wouldn't be going







).
If I have computer+internet access, I'll be sure to update you guys, but I doubt I will.

See y'all later!

edit: N2, CPUz shows single/dual channel in the "Memory" tab under "Channels #."


Nate, Have fun... Keep a lid on it







stay out of trouble and if you find a nice Itlian girl make sure your not getting married to the mob...







Jk Man I sure wish I got to do cool stuff like that growing up.

Good for you man. Most people have to join the military to visit places like that, mostly the Navy but the only bad part is you are OWNED by the military and you only get very little/limited passage to foreign countries for vacation. Then again I have never served so I may be way out in left field here but I'm just talking out the side of my neck like always.









Learn as much as you can while you are there.


----------



## simfreak47

I am officially upgraded from s939. Got the AM2 stuff today.


----------



## loony

I should be getting some new 939 stuff next week







, one of my dads clients is getting rid of one of his 939 rigs so I'm going to take it off his hands haha. It has PCI-e and AGP slot so I can use my 6600GT until i purchase a new card. It's an Asrock board, i think it's this one: http://www.asrock.com/mb/overview.as...ual-VSTA&s=939


----------



## Blitz6804

Hueristic has had much luck with that board. I believe it is now in the hands of his nephew.


----------



## loony

How much do you reckon i could push my 3500+ on it?


----------



## Blitz6804

Hard to see, the future is. Besides, as mine and Thlnk3r's sigs point out (by blatantly ripping off Joe) no two computers are the same. Just because one person can get a 15% overclock with a board does not mean everyone will. (I think that is what Hueristic's single core topped out at; 15%.)


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *loony* 
How much do you reckon i could push my 3500+ on it?

IOt depends on how cool you can keep it. I can get mine all the way up to ~ 2800MHz *BUT* I took the IHS off of it. You'll notice that the 3500+ _requires_ a lot of voltage. And the only way to keep it cool enough to get a decent OC is by removing the IHS.
Let me put it to you this way, I can get it to 2500 no problem, voltage 1.45-1.5, now to get it to 2600 I believe it needs roughly 1.55v then to get it to 2700 ~ 1.625, and to get it to 2800 I need a lot, like 1.7 or so. I can get it higher but the voltage demands are ridiculous. I think to get it to 2950 I requires a whopping 1.85 or so.

Are you getting any CPUs' with those rigs that you're acquiring?


----------



## loony

Hopefully a 3800+ or if i'm lucky it'll be an X2. I really just want a motherboard so i can breath some more life into this rig.


----------



## nepas

well my sig rig is down for some memory to come back from RMA I decided to pull out my old opty and ultra-d to have a play with.It would appear that I have two dead ram slots(the ones nearest the cpu)how much of an effect will this have on the performance of the rig?also the cooler I have for it is rubbish,currently idles at [email protected],dont think I will get too far with it unless I can find my mounting bracket for my Zalman which appears to have vanished!!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nepas*


well my sig rig is down for some memory to come back from RMA I decided to pull out my old opty and ultra-d to have a play with.It would appear that I have two dead ram slots(the ones nearest the cpu)how much of an effect will this have on the performance of the rig?also the cooler I have for it is rubbish,currently idles at [email protected],dont think I will get too far with it unless I can find my mounting bracket for my Zalman which appears to have vanished!!


Well with the 2 dead ram slots you'll only be able to run the RAM in single channel so it'll kill your bandwidth. As for performance, well I'm not sure honestly. I've always run in dual channel. How much RAM do you have for it? And are you absolutely sure the slots are dead? Sometimes they just need a thorough cleaning with a small brush or even a rag and some alcohol. And dont forgetto clean the contacts on the sticks themselves with an eraser.

Which cooler is it? I was able to OC my opty 165 with the stock cooler to about 2300 without any problems, @ stock voltage I do believe. Although, in order for me to maintain that OC I had to get a Tornado fan for the cooler. And well that damn thing was so loud that I eventually wound up getting aftermarket cooling just because the sound level was unbearable. It was something along the lines of 50db @ 6000 rpm and it moved ~90-95 CFM. The cool thing about it is it lowered my overall case and mobo temps considerably. Even under full load my mobo (Asus A8N32 sli deluxe) would only get to ~30*C., it idled @ 26*C.

Also, try reseating the cooler with some new TIM, it might drop your temps some. Those temps seem awful high for idle. Whats your vcore set to?


----------



## pioneerisloud

BO:
That's actually pretty rough. My stock Opty cooler could cool mine up to 3.0GHz with ease. Granted the stock Opty coolers perform better (IMO) than my old Zalman 9500 did.


----------



## nepas

well instead of messing about with a thermaltake pos cooler I pulled my W/C from my main rig for the opty,only had to up the vcore to 1.4 so far.will try and clean the ram slots,maybe it is just dirty.I think I need to find my other TIM as this stuff I am using appears to be a bit poor,these temps are with a lapped chip and an 8800gt in the loop


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nepas*


well instead of messing about with a thermaltake pos cooler I pulled my W/C from my main rig for the opty,only had to up the vcore to 1.4 so far.will try and clean the ram slots,maybe it is just dirty.I think I need to find my other TIM as this stuff I am using appears to be a bit poor,these temps are with a lapped chip and an 8800gt in the loop


What stepping is that chip?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


BO:
That's actually pretty rough. My stock Opty cooler could cool mine up to 3.0GHz with ease. Granted the stock Opty coolers perform better (IMO) than my old Zalman 9500 did.


 Yeah but yours is better than mine was (I sold it). You could hit a higher OC at lower than stock voltage. I could hit 2.0 @ 1.31v, anything over that with that voltage resulted in BSOD.

Now my 180 on the other hand, It'll run happy as a clam @ 2900/2950 @ stock voltage. Not to mention load temps stay nice and low, as I _never_ let it go over 65*C core temp. So technically, ~57*C IHS. It'll hit higher OC's but the temps make me nervous, so I usually back it down. Not to mention the amount of voltage needed to get it that high isn't worth the gain. Going from 2900 to 3000 MHz netted only a ~300 point increase in 3d06. Hell it already plays crysis @ 1680x1050 on high 16xAA @ 30FPS. What more do I need?








I just got a lapped 3800+ X2 we'll see how it goes with that. If I'm not happy with the temps, IHS is coming off of that mother too. My 180 still has a warranty so I'm not messing with it (yet). 
I really like the temps I'm getting with my naked 3500+. Sitting in a 24*C room folding @ 100% it only hits 44/45*C. Even looping S&M FPU test, only see ~55*C (if that).


----------



## nepas

cant remember lol,have got it wrote down somewhere,will try to find it,iirc its one of the steppings that are known to be good for about 2.7-2.9


----------



## Blitz6804

54Âº C in Prime95 is quite a bit warm for water cooling, even with an 8800 GT idling in the loop. At 2800 MHz (granted, lower voltage) my Toledo would do about 55Âº C on air cooling.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *loony* 
The thing i don't get is, i have usb speakers and they work when plugged into the board, but any other usb device wont









Loony, old news since you'll be getting a new board but make sure USB support is _enabled_ in the BIOS. As dumb as it sounds it can get disabled accidentally.

Nate, enjoy your trip









Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Just remember, peeps: Discussion of temperatures, no matter the cooling equipment, will always be dependent on ambient temperatures.









I would not be surprised if someone on air cooling can get more favorable temperatures than a water-cooled system if said water-cooled PC resided in my bedroom this summer.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Just remember, peeps: Discussion of temperatures, no matter the cooling equipment, will always be dependent on ambient temperatures.









I would not be surprised if someone on air cooling can get more favorable temperatures than a water-cooled system if said water-cooled PC resided in my bedroom this summer.


I know what you mean Joe. In this new house we're in my computer room is upstairs, and unfortunately there is NO FREAKIN VENTS. So in the winter my rigs heat it and its comfortable, but now its like 65*F outside and it feels like a sauna. I do believe I am going to have some serious cooling issues this summer.









But on another note, installed my new lapped 3800+ and 2 GB of XMS RAM (thanks to simfreak, and txtmstrjoe for the TIM







) in my sig rig and so far so good. Even in this hot room idles @ 30/26. I'll run a barrage of tests later then hopefully I'll have time to get my rigs situated how I want.

Here's the CPUZ. (Dont add this to the roster as this is not how its going to stay, just testing).


----------



## Blitz6804

Am I the only one who notices that ATi chipsets almost always underclock at stock?

Joe: I am curious to see how your rigs would do in my ambient temperatures. As we know, I consistently have some of the coolest ambient temperatures of the club. Some get colder temperatures in the short term (exempli gratia: The_Gamer294 sticking his rig on the back porch), but I have it for the long term.


----------



## BlackOmega

Update: Ran S&M 100% load, short duration, all tests but HDD. Cpu did not once get over 45*C @ 1.31v. Mem's good also,









Quick question for you S&M users. Since I dont typically run the mem test, does the monitoring window show the mem temps? Like where you have the steplike graphs in the middle. What are acceptable mem temps? If those are temps being displayed, is ~92*C OK? I never really pay attention to them, but I thought I'd ask.

Well I'm off back to the hospital, I'll definitely be on later tonight, I'm spending the day with my other boy Leo and my mother in law is going to stay with my wife tonight, thank God! Its so hard to sleep there.

Take care guys, BBL
-Omega.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

BlackOmega, I'm not aware of any motherboard sensors monitoring the RAM temperatures for S939 (the sensors would have to be on the board for S&M to read).

92 degs C? Holy hotdogs, Batman! That's toasty!









That can't be RAM temperature...


----------



## N2Gaming

My guess would be that 92 C hot doggie temperature is prolly his GPU


----------



## Blitz6804

To be honest with you Black Omega, the monitoring feature does not work in 64-bit operating systems. Back when I ran 32-bit, I never noticed a RAM sensor. As has been said, I think S&M is reading the wrong temperature. Further, a "short" run will not be long enough to really turn on the heat. Yes, it works well, but FPU reaches its highest temperature about 20-25 minutes in.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Quick question for you S&M users. Since I dont typically run the mem test, does the monitoring window show the mem temps? Like where you have the steplike graphs in the middle. What are acceptable mem temps? If those are temps being displayed, is ~92*C OK? I never really pay attention to them, but I thought I'd ask.


BlackOmega, for BGA style memory I doubt that is accurate. During full load you would see temperatures around 40C-50C. I have a temperature diode that I used to measure my G.Skill memory during full load and OC'ing tests. I saw temperatures in the mid 40's with no airflow. How does it feel when you touch it? Well it burns









Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
how does it feel when you touch it? Well it burns









lol


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
BlackOmega, I'm not aware of any motherboard sensors monitoring the RAM temperatures for S939 (the sensors would have to be on the board for S&M to read).

92 degs C? Holy hotdogs, Batman! That's toasty!









That can't be RAM temperature...









Perhaps its a % usage?







And if it was 92*C then I just cook something on em.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
My guess would be that 92 C hot doggie temperature is prolly his GPU

Thats a negatory, my GPUs' dont get that hot. I had CCC open BTW and it said ~63*C

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
To be honest with you Black Omega, the monitoring feature does not work in 64-bit operating systems. Back when I ran 32-bit, I never noticed a RAM sensor. As has been said, I think S&M is reading the wrong temperature. Further, a "short" run will not be long enough to really turn on the heat. Yes, it works well, but FPU reaches its highest temperature about 20-25 minutes in.

I'll have to run just the FPU test for that long to see how hot she really gets. I doubt it will be over 50*C

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, for BGA style memory I doubt that is accurate. During full load you would see temperatures around 40C-50C. I have a temperature diode that I used to measure my G.Skill memory during full load and OC'ing tests. I saw temperatures in the mid 40's with no airflow. How does it feel when you touch it? Well it burns









Good luck

It BURNS, O M G DOES IT BURN!









Truth be told th|nk3r, I dont know I didnt stick my hand down there. Next time I will.


----------



## loony

You know, we should have a top 20 Socket 939 list...

Just a suggestion


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *loony*


You know, we should have a top 20 Socket 939 list...

Just a suggestion


and this list would be comprised of the best overclocked systems referenced by members or the best overclocked systems referenced by mobo cpu combo's top 20 ???


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


and this list would be comprised of the best overclocked systems referenced by members or the best overclocked systems referenced by mobo cpu combo's top 20 ???



I'd say base it on the CPU's themselves but if you want, CPU/MB combos can be done.
The list itself could actually be two columns, single core and dual core chips having their own headings and as a possible option, Opterons and X2's respectively having their own subheadings within the dual core column.


----------



## Blitz6804

I believe this proposed list would be superfluous and unwarranted. The goal of the club is to provide a repository of knowledge and a place for Socket 939 users to converse with like-minded individuals. When he have contests for overclocks, it makes sense to have ranked lists. But in general, many people do not have their maximum suicide submitted for entry, but instead, their 24/7-stable overclock.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
I'd say base it on the CPU's themselves but if you want, CPU/MB combos can be done.
The list itself could actually be two columns, single core and dual core chips having their own headings and as a possible option, Opterons and X2's respectively having their own subheadings within the dual core column.

Any one can always start a thread for best CPU overclock... Actually that would not be a bad idea...

You could make the thread list CPU's of all varieties Intel, AMD, Nvidia, ATI etc etc etc... Then have the thread be strickly set up for any and all overclocks.

Example: *Best Overclocks on OCN*

Aw what the heck I made a thread for this so *you can all check it out here* and tell me what you think is it a good or bad idea.


----------



## Kryton

So far, so good and thanks N2 for at least taking the initiative to try/test the idea. It may be a good idea and there's only one way to find out.









With the headings he's created, plenty of room and excuse to try out your older stuff too.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
So far, so good and thanks N2 for at least taking the initiative to try/test the idea. It may be a good idea and there's only one way to find out.









With the headings he's created, plenty of room and excuse to try out your older stuff too.










Thanks for the vote of confidence. Now lets see some entries


----------



## GuardianOdin

Just stopping in to say Hello guys, Things are looking great here. Welcome to the new members I may have missed.


----------



## thlnk3r

N2Gaming, great idea on that thread. Some pretty crazy high OC's









Guardian, it's good to see you!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Alright guys, here's your chances to buy my golden parts. I hate to let them go... but I need to move on past Socket 939 now, otherwise I never will







. Link here.


----------



## BlackOmega

What you upgrading to PIO? I'll probably build one later this year, probably around christmas when everythings on sale.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
What you upgrading to PIO? I'll probably build one later this year, probably around christmas when everythings on sale.

I'm looking into an X3 710, 790GX mobo, and 4GB of GSkill PK's.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I'm looking into an X3 710, 790GX mobo, and 4GB of GSkill PK's.

HAHA! Thats about the same combo I was gonna go with. CHeck this board out.

But I decided to wait until the 945 comes out. Although the 710 is really appealing. Cheap too.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
HAHA! Thats about the same combo I was gonna go with. CHeck this board out.

But I decided to wait until the 945 comes out. Although the 710 is really appealing. Cheap too.

That board is much over the price range I was looking at







. I was looking at a Foxconn 790GX board for $104.99.


----------



## BlackOmega

Check this openbox for an Asus M4A78T-E


----------



## thlnk3r

Pio, the Biostar 790GX is another one to check out. Price is about the same as the Foxconn model. A few days ago I was looking at a Opteron 1354, Biostar 790GX and 2GB of G.Skill DDR2 800 memory. The price for everything after shipping was $209. It would be a nice build for my vm server









Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

You may also want to keep this in mind PIO, a little something Hueristic passed on to me. Foxconn is getting out of the mobo building business so you may or may not have continued support for your warranty issues that may arise. I so far love my foxconn Destroyer w/the exception of not having a unlocked NB multiplier in the bios...

Good Luck w/your sale and you new system.

N2G


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Check this openbox for an Asus M4A78T-E










I'm not personally a big fan of openbox items really







. I prefer to get the full warranty when I buy something







.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pio, the Biostar 790GX is another one to check out. Price is about the same as the Foxconn model. A few days ago I was looking at a Opteron 1354, Biostar 790GX and 2GB of G.Skill DDR2 800 memory. The price for everything after shipping was $209. It would be a nice build for my vm server









Good luck


I will keep that in mind when and if the time comes







. Thanks!

On Topic:
I'm gonna miss this rig when she leaves me







.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I'm not personally a big fan of openbox items really







. I prefer to get the full warranty when I buy something







.

On Topic:
I'm gonna miss this rig when she leaves me







.


You still get Asus's 3 year warranty with it. Just newegg only gives you a 30 day money back guarantee, which is more than enough usually to thoroughly test it.

And just remember it takes _skill_ to OC a 939







and make it competative with todays hardware.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
You still get Asus's 3 year warranty with it. Just newegg only gives you a 30 day money back guarantee, which is more than enough usually to thoroughly test it.

And just remember it takes _skill_ to OC a 939







and make it competative with todays hardware.









That it does







. I STILL don't have any problems with my current rig...even Crysis on all High (DX10) with 4x AA. However I paid $70 for GTA IV on launch day...I'd REALLY like to not feel like I wasted that money...since it LOOKS like a good game (just not at 12 FPS).


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
That it does







. I STILL don't have any problems with my current rig...even Crysis on all High (DX10) with 4x AA. However I paid $70 for GTA IV on launch day...I'd REALLY like to not feel like I wasted that money...since it LOOKS like a good game (just not at 12 FPS).

LOL waisting money. I forgot I even had that game for the PS3


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
That it does







. I STILL don't have any problems with my current rig...even Crysis on all High (DX10) with 4x AA. However I paid $70 for GTA IV on launch day...I'd REALLY like to not feel like I wasted that money...since it LOOKS like a good game (just not at 12 FPS).

If you are upgrading, you really have to go for a Kuma or Ph II CPU. Otherwise it will be just the same.

Having my x2 4000+, sitting next to a x2 3800+ (s939) I was maybe...maybe...a nudge faster in real world performance. Thats with DDR400 vs DDR2 800 RAM.

Same GPUs (8800GTS 640's), same amount of RAM (2x1gb), Same CPU speed (3.0ghz)

s939 vs AM2...its a stalemate for the most part. I only got my AM2 rig as a back up. Ended up falling in love with AMD and their Price/Performance. And ditched my E8400/DDR3/x38.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
If you are upgrading, you really have to go for a Kuma or Ph II CPU. Otherwise it will be just the same.

Having my x2 4000+, sitting next to a x2 3800+ (s939) I was maybe...maybe...a nudge faster in real world performance. Thats with DDR400 vs DDR2 800 RAM.

Same GPUs (8800GTS 640's), same amount of RAM (2x1gb), Same CPU speed (3.0ghz)

s939 vs AM2...its a stalemate for the most part. I only got my AM2 rig as a back up. Ended up falling in love with AMD and their Price/Performance. And ditched my E8400/DDR3/x38.

I realize that







. That's why I'm trying not to settle for anything below a triple core Phenom II.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I realize that







. That's why I'm trying not to settle for anything below a triple core Phenom II.



That is also what I've been thinking. 
Skipping AM2 completely and going straight to AM3 here too.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


That it does







. I STILL don't have any problems with my current rig...even Crysis on all High (DX10) with 4x AA. However I paid $70 for GTA IV on launch day...I'd REALLY like to not feel like I wasted that money...since it LOOKS like a good game (just not at 12 FPS).


 GTAIV for the most part is so poorly coded that even high end current rigs have issues playing at a good frame rate with all the bells and whistles on.

As for Crysis, since I can play it at 1680x1050 on high with 16xQSAA @ 30FPS average. I see no reason to upgrade just yet. As a matter of fact some of the intel boys couldn't believe that I could get those kind of framerates with that much AA.

I bet if you just upgrade your GPU to a 4890 or a GTX275 it'll make everything a lot smoother and more playable, probably even GTAIV. Although, I've heard that ATi carsd do considerably better where AA is concerned. Aside from that you can give your PCIe bus a 5MHz increase with noticeable framerate improvement. I've found with the A8N32 I was able to OC 5MHz per card. So in SLI I could run it at 10MHz over.


----------



## Blitz6804

Problem with ports I suppose. I remember how smoothly GTA3 ran on my PS2 and how lackluster it ran on my PC. GTA4 runs great on a PS3; pity the game is such a disappointment as compared to GTA:SA... Saints Row 2 is far superior. I have not tried it, but Saints Row 2 PC-DVD is available for cheaper than the console versions.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


GTAIV for the most part is so poorly coded that even high end current rigs have issues playing at a good frame rate with all the bells and whistles on.

As for Crysis, since I can play it at 1680x1050 on high with 16xQSAA @ 30FPS average. I see no reason to upgrade just yet. As a matter of fact some of the intel boys couldn't believe that I could get those kind of framerates with that much AA.

I bet if you just upgrade your GPU to a 4890 or a GTX275 it'll make everything a lot smoother and more playable, probably even GTAIV. Although, I've heard that ATi carsd do considerably better where AA is concerned. Aside from that you can give your PCIe bus a 5MHz increase with noticeable framerate improvement. I've found with the A8N32 I was able to OC 5MHz per card. So in SLI I could run it at 10MHz over.


The problem with GTA IV is that it'll fully utilize a high clocked Quad core. You can imagine what it does to my poor 3.0GHz dual core. People with e8x00's clocked above 4.0GHz have a hard time playing it, but somebody with a 3.0-3.2GHz Quad core can play it at MUCH higher settings with smooth gameplay.

Honestly, all I'm WANTING to be able to do is play GTA IV on all the lowest settings at my native resolution. My rig struggles to pull a steady 15FPS with all low settings at that resolution. However, even all maxed out....I get the same framerates, which tells me its a CPU bottleneck (for once).

And you're right, I can play Crysis on all High (DX10) with 4xAA and get 25-30 FPS EASILY...which as we all know, is smooth as butter in Crysis. Its ONLY GTA IV that I struggle with, and I figure future games are sure to follow the multicore path anyway







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I'm with BlackOmega on this one: The problem with GTA IV is not in the hardware it takes to run it, but with the coding of the port. Crysis is supposedly the same.

This opinion, of course, is from a guy who owns neither game at the moment. Having said that, I think I've read enough (including the opinions expressed in this very thread recently by others) to conclude with a reasonable certainty that the problems with GTA IV lie with how it's ported over to the PC.

I suppose there will be a game that will motivate my own desire to move on from my current gaming machine, a game that would simply be unplayable with what I currently have. I imagine it will be a must-play Formula One simulation.







But that game, thankfully, does not yet exist.









At any rate, I guess I'm glad I don't have the upgrade itch like some of us do.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I'm with BlackOmega on this one: The problem with GTA IV is not in the hardware it takes to run it, but with the coding of the port. Crysis is supposedly the same.

This opinion, of course, is from a guy who owns neither game at the moment. Having said that, I think I've read enough (including the opinions expressed in this very thread recently by others) to conclude with a reasonable certainty that the problems with GTA IV lie with how it's ported over to the PC.

I suppose there will be a game that will motivate my own desire to move on from my current gaming machine, a game that would simply be unplayable with what I currently have. I imagine it will be a must-play Formula One simulation.







But that game, thankfully, does not yet exist.









At any rate, I guess I'm glad I don't have the upgrade itch like some of us do.










Well, I have ALWAYS been a huge fan of the Grand Theft Auto series. I've actually played through the ENTIRE game for GTA III, Vice City, and San Andreas. I can't say that about many other games (NFS Underground 2, and that's it). I've been looking forward to GTA IV since I heard about it when I FIRST joined up at this site. Unfortunately, my particular rig gets 15FPS on a GOOD DAY...if I'm lucky, on low or high settings it doesn't matter. However people with Quad Cores can easily play it on all high.

Yes I know the game still has glitches and whatnot.....but my point is, I paid $70 for this game, and I've been wanting to play it and finish it for like 3 years now. I'm determined to be able to at least RUN this game







.

I REALLY hate to see this setup go, but at the same time, I'm hoping somebody from here at OCN will have a good use for these golden parts, and will appreciate them. Just like I'll appreciate whatever I upgrade to for many years to come. Even if its a Phenom 9x50BE chip....that'll still last me for a good couple years with 4GB of RAM and my 8800GT.


----------



## N2Gaming

I did not know GTA IV was our for three years. I thought it just came out like a year or so ago.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I did not know GTA IV was our for three years. I thought it just came out like a year or so ago.










It just came out this last Christmas. But I've been following it since it was first rumored.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


It just came out this last Christmas. But I've been following it since it was first rumored.


 Oh ok... I thought I was loosing my marbles there for a second. I just went and put it in the PS3 to play it and decided to let my controllers charge for a while before I try to play it again. I tried it a couple of times now but get lost pretty easy making it hard for me to go from one location to my next objective.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Oh, I'm with you, pio. I LOVE the GTA series. I've got both Vice City and San Andreas for both the PC and the PS2. But since I've got no current-gen console to play GTA IV on, I'm waiting for the day when news breaks that the PC port is at least playable on my current rig.

I'm mightily disappointed that the issues haven't been ironed out by now.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Oh, I'm with you, pio. I LOVE the GTA series. I've got both Vice City and San Andreas for both the PC and the PS2. But since I've got no current-gen console to play GTA IV on, I'm waiting for the day when news breaks that the PC port is at least playable on my current rig.

I'm mightily disappointed that the issues haven't been ironed out by now.










Give it about 3 years or so, prolly just right before they are about to stop support for the game then they will release the fix in efforts to sell more copies before calling the project quits.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Give it about *3 years or so*, prolly just right before they are about to stop support for the game then they will release the fix in efforts to sell more copies before calling the project quits.


THREE years?

Even I would have shuffled off this mortal S939 coil by then!









In all seriousness, though, is that how things usually happen in the industry?

Holy cynicism, Batman! They're only out to take our money!


----------



## Blitz6804

Heck... some people have been waiting some ten years for Duke Nukem Forever.


----------



## N2Gaming

tmj, I don't know if that is the industry standard. I was just throwing some numbers out there as a for instance. Never the less it sucks that it's still not supported. Do any of you guys use outlook, Act or any other software like that w/calendar tasks that you can set up reminders to check on things that you would normally forget about. If you set up a reminder once a month you could do a google search for a fix to GTA IV once a month to see if there is a fix yet...

Good Luck,

N2G

I meant to say the bug not being fixed instead of saying that it is not supported.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
The problem with GTA IV is that it'll fully utilize a high clocked Quad core. You can imagine what it does to my poor 3.0GHz dual core. People with e8x00's clocked above 4.0GHz have a hard time playing it, but somebody with a 3.0-3.2GHz Quad core can play it at MUCH higher settings with smooth gameplay.

Honestly, all I'm WANTING to be able to do is play GTA IV on all the lowest settings at my native resolution. My rig struggles to pull a steady 15FPS with all low settings at that resolution. However, even all maxed out....I get the same framerates, which tells me its a CPU bottleneck (for once).

And you're right, I can play Crysis on all High (DX10) with 4xAA and get 25-30 FPS EASILY...which as we all know, is smooth as butter in Crysis. Its ONLY GTA IV that I struggle with, and I figure future games are sure to follow the multicore path anyway







.

Hmmm....







15 FPS eh? Thats pretty bad, for sure. I wonder if a physx card would have any impact on performance?

I wish I could get a copy of it just for testing purposes.

And whats really strange is that an xbox can play it @ 30FPS with inferior hardware. I mean why would it play SO much better on a quad than a dual? I mean its not like the xbox is a quad core (AFAIK, I dont follow consoles much anymore).

Im not a fan of the GTA series, although I have played several of them. I like racing/FPS games better. That and the story lines dont hold my interest one bit. Hell, Ive never even seen scarface or any of the Godfather movies because I dont care about gangsters and such.

I hope that your AM3 will serve you well.


----------



## Blitz6804

The reason why it runs "like buddah" on the consoles is that they were coded as such. The PC ports for Grand Theft Auto (such as my 3) have always been terrible. It is likely that there are many errors and faults in the code. Crysis has similar problems. For a good time, pop up the terminal while you play; be dumbfounded at how many errors it throws.


----------



## simfreak47

It even runs like a turd on my PC.. but then again.. 7900GS


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey does any one have any idea's what would prevent CPUZ from validating one's overclock. I'm trying to help this guy seen here out and for some reason he is not able to validate his oc.

thank you,

N2G


----------



## BlackOmega

Well so far guys the new 3800+x2 is holding steady at 2500MHz. I havent had much time for testing, but hopefully I'll be able to reach 2800 or so.

This CPU was already lapped and I paired it with my lapped BT and the temps are amazing now that the TIM has settled. 26/22*C @ idle and so far I haven't seen it above 45*C @ 100% load (FPU test).

Ill post a CPUz later.


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well so far guys the new 3800+x2 is holding steady at 2500MHz. I havent had much time for testing, but hopefully I'll be able to reach 2800 or so.

This CPU was already lapped and I paired it with my lapped BT and the temps are amazing now that the TIM has settled. 26/22*C @ idle and so far I haven't seen it above 45*C @ 100% load (FPU test).

Ill post a CPUz later.


Very awesome! Lets see some high clocks


----------



## Kryton

Here's another one for the list.
Believe I can get more from it and will try later.
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=550166

Opteron 175 LCB9E 0652 (On air)
DFI LP UT NF4 Expert
OCZ Gold EL PC4400 (2x256MB)


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Here's another one for the list.
Believe I can get more from it and will try later.
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=550166

Opteron 175 LCB9E 0652 (On air)
DFI LP UT NF4 Expert
OCZ Gold EL PC4400 (2x256MB)

Very nice Kryton!







Out of curiosity what kind of voltage are you pumping through that thing?

Is it lapped or naked?


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Very nice Kryton!







Out of curiosity what kind of voltage are you pumping through that thing?

Is it lapped or naked?

As to actual voltage, probrably alot more than CPU-Z was saying at the time - 1.568v and that can't be right. Had it set for around 1.75v's. maybe a tad more. That's why I stated it as 1.79v.

Still has the lid on and I haven't touched it's surface either. Temps were high of course (55c+) but manageable.
Next up - The 180, then I have three 4000+ CPU's I need to try out with this board.


----------



## simfreak47

Very nice! I used to have a SLI DR Expert, but I figured it was time to move on =/

Good luck!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
And whats really strange is that an xbox can play it @ 30FPS with inferior hardware. I mean why would it play SO much better on a quad than a dual? I mean its not like the xbox is a quad core (AFAIK, I dont follow consoles much anymore).

BlackOmega, it's a whole lot easier for developers to code a game that is supported under the same video card, same processors, same type of memory ect ect ect. With a PC there are several different combination's of different hardware.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Here's another one for the list.
Believe I can get more from it and will try later.
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=550166

Opteron 175 LCB9E 0652 (On air)
DFI LP UT NF4 Expert
OCZ Gold EL PC4400 (2x256MB)

Kryton, nice overclock









Have you tested for stability?

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Part of the reason why the Mac platform is so stable: all hardware made for Mac must be considered by developers.


----------



## BlackOmega

Well got to tinkering some more with the 3800+ X2 last night got it 2700 rock solid stable. Temps aren't too bad considering the voltage (1.536v), idles @ 29/25*C and loads @ ~60*C (FPU test).

As good as this things been clocking I'm going to try for more later today (that's why I haven't submitted a validation).

And amazingly enough this board (CFX3200) has been cooperating. Haven't had any issues at all with it.

Will update later with hopefully a validation


----------



## thlnk3r

BlackOmega, nice job buddy. Are you going for highest stable overclock? Do you want me to wait for the new changes before I add your entry to the roster?

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well got to tinkering some more with the 3800+ X2 last night got it 2700 rock solid stable. Temps aren't too bad considering the voltage (1.536v), idles @ 29/25*C and loads @ ~60*C (FPU test).

As good as this things been clocking I'm going to try for more later today (that's why I haven't submitted a validation).

* And amazingly enough this board (CFX3200) has been cooperating. Haven't had any issues at all with it. *

Will update later with hopefully a validation










BlackOmega, are you now running a RAID array on this system? (I forget.)


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well got to tinkering some more with the 3800+ X2 last night got it 2700 rock solid stable. Temps aren't too bad considering the voltage (1.536v), idles @ 29/25*C and loads @ ~60*C (FPU test).

As good as this things been clocking I'm going to try for more later today (that's why I haven't submitted a validation).

And amazingly enough this board (CFX3200) has been cooperating. Haven't had any issues at all with it.

Will update later with hopefully a validation










2700Mhz stable on a *Manchester*??? Holy crap good job!


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


2700Mhz stable on a *Manchester*??? Holy crap good job!


It's a very good CPU









I couldn't get it stable at 2700MHz tho, just enough to get a validation


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *simfreak47*


It's a very good CPU









I couldn't get it stable at 2700MHz tho, just enough to get a validation










I never said its not a bad CPU







. Its just that Manchesters generally don't like to break 2.5-2.6GHz stable.


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I never said its not a bad CPU







. Its just that Manchesters generally don't like to break 2.5-2.6GHz stable.


I know, I was just confirming it's a great CPU. lol.

My single core Manchester 3500+ capped at like 2500MHz


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, nice job buddy. Are you going for highest stable overclock? Do you want me to wait for the new changes before I add your entry to the roster?

Good luck


 Yeah hold off on the addition, I'm going to tinker around some more tonight when I get a chance to see if it'll get any higher 24/7 stable. I just stopped @ 2700 cuz I was getting too tired.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


BlackOmega, are you now running a RAID array on this system? (I forget.)










 Yep, havent rearranged the hardware between my rigs yet. Its basically my sig rig with the 3800X2.

Oh and BTW, I ran HDtach on my folding rig which has a WD2500KS 7200rpm 16mb cache (same specs as my RAID HDDs'), and the RAID array almost doubles the bandwidth of the single drive, ~43 MB/s vs 93.3 MB/s. While the single drive has considerably more burst speed, 170MB/s vs. 117MB/s (RAID).
The single drive is using the Nvidia controller on my NF4 Ultra D/G.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


2700Mhz stable on a *Manchester*??? Holy crap good job!


 Thanks







, I've heard stories about manchesters and wanted to see if they were true.

My rule of thumb about S939's that I go by is that they're all under-clocked 500MHz from the factory. As every single one I've toyed with will usually get to that 500MHz increase on stock voltage.
And this Manchester actually got to 2500 @ 1.31v. It seems from here on I need to add 100mv for every 100MHz step.

I'm still debating on whether I should pop the top off of this thing.









I'll keep you guys posted


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Kryton, nice overclock









Have you tested for stability?

Good luck


Not yet and for good reason since temps start getting WARM after running it there for a few minutes. Still on aircooling and that's the biggest reason I won't let it run for long at those speeds.
It's a good chip and I don't care to burn it up. I have a WC'ing setup in the works that should take care of the cooling problem once it's completed. When I get it done, I'll be able to test it for stability at those speeds without worrying so much about it.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Oh and BTW, I ran HDtach on my folding rig which has a WD2500KS 7200rpm 16mb cache (same specs as my RAID HDDs'), and the RAID array almost doubles the bandwidth of the single drive, ~43 MB/s vs 93.3 MB/s. While the single drive has considerably more burst speed, 170MB/s vs. 117MB/s (RAID).
The single drive is using the Nvidia controller on my NF4 Ultra D/G.

BlackOmega, is this Raid 0? Those burst speeds look a little low for a sata II controller.

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, is this Raid 0? Those burst speeds look a little low for a sata II controller.

Good luck


Yeah its RAID 0, its not SATAII. Its on the Sil controller of the CFX which is only SATA I. I never did wind up trying the ULi controller which is SATA II. And now the board is going to be a dedicated folding rig so the RAID array along with my 180, 4870, XFi and 4GB of RAM is going to one of my NF4 ultra D/G's. (Cant believe I have 2 of those







).


----------



## Blitz6804

I believe BlackOmega has three identical drives. Two are on a SATA-I RAID0 (DFI Lanparty CFX 3200 - DR), the other is on a SATA-II (DFI Lanparty UT nF4 Ultra-D).

Simulpost for the lose yet again.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I believe BlackOmega has three identical drives. Two are on a SATA-I RAID0 (DFI Lanparty CFX 3200 - DR), the other is on a SATA-II (DFI Lanparty UT nF4 Ultra-D).

Simulpost for the lose yet again.

You are correct sir, the only difference that there is between them is that 1 is a SE16 and the other 2 are RE16's. Supposedly the RE16's are server class HDDs'.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Yeah its RAID 0, its not SATAII. Its on the Sil controller of the CFX which is only SATA I. I never did wind up trying the ULi controller which is SATA II.


BlackOmega, ahh ok that explains it. You mentioned the board but wasn't sure which controller you were using.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


You are correct sir, the only difference that there is between them is that 1 is a SE16 and the other 2 are RE16's. Supposedly the RE16's are server class HDDs'.


Oh dang Blitz bet you didn't know that


----------



## Blitz6804

Actually thlnk3r, I did. Unlike some people on OCN, BlackOmega was very thorough filling out his system specs for both Problem Child (2x WD RE16 250gb RAID 0) and Folding Rig (WD SE16 (WD2500KS)), thereby making my "stalking career" that much easier.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Actually thlnk3r, I did. Unlike some people on OCN, BlackOmega was very thorough filling out his system specs for both Problem Child (2x WD RE16 250gb RAID 0) and Folding Rig (WD SE16 (WD2500KS)), thereby making my "stalking career" that much easier.


 Like my optical drive in the folding rig?


----------



## N2Gaming

Has any one heard of our governments top secret networking capabilities to network over the two wires in the electrical circuits in your walls. Some people go as far as to say that our government has mandated secret spy cams built into newer tv's to spy on USA citizens. I know it sounds like a far fetched tale but what if







Hmm


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Has any one heard of our governments top secret networking capabilities to network over the two wires in the electrical circuits in your walls. Some people go as far as to say that our government has mandated secret spy cams built into newer tv's to spy on USA citizens. I know it sounds like a far fetched tale but what if







Hmm

N2Gaming, OCN may not be the best source of info for this type of topic. You would probably have better luck at this site: http://www.abovetopsecret.com/.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, OCN may not be the best source of info for this type of topic. You would probably have better luck at this site: http://www.abovetopsecret.com/.

Good luck









Thanks thinker for the link. I see how I could lost there for hours doing research but I'm not gonna indulge. You never know what sights trigger big brother to start watching someone.







I'm not really to concerned about the hype. I just thought it might make for a nice conversation " as off topic as it is " but then again I don't want you all to think that I'm







out there.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I just thought it might make for a nice conversation " as off topic as it is " but then again I don't want you all to think that I'm







out there.

N2Gaming, no worries. Actually at work a lot of us discuss this type of stuff all the time. I'm still waiting for "aurora" to be declassified









Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, no worries. Actually at work a lot of us discuss this type of stuff all the time. I'm still waiting for "aurora" to be declassified









Good luck


You mean this bird, thlnk3r?

I actually almost bought the Testors kit mentioned further in the article. (I used to build scale model cars and aircraft when I was younger. Fun hobby.







)


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


You mean this bird, thlnk3r?

I actually almost bought the Testors kit mentioned further in the article. (I used to build scale model cars and aircraft when I was younger. Fun hobby.







)


Oh wow I though maybe you were referring to the northern lights and how they may be some kind of secret energy that we don't know about yet... LOL that's me out there again


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


You mean this bird, thlnk3r?


Joe, yes that is the bird I am referring to. Which reminds me I need to update my S939 rig with it's new name









Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thanks thinker for the link. I see how I could lost there for hours doing research but I'm not gonna indulge. You never know what sights trigger big brother to start watching someone.







I'm not really to concerned about the hype. I just thought it might make for a nice conversation " as off topic as it is " but then again I don't want you all to think that I'm







out there.



N2, I believe its certain words or phrases that they actually look for. I know they do this in public libraries, certain books or topics are flagged.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


N2, I believe its certain words or phrases that they actually look for. I know they do this in public libraries, certain books or topics are flagged.


























Don't ever download the Anarch$!$ts Han.d;b0Ork. unless you want to make a list you'll never get off of.


----------



## BlackOmega

I already know how make n4p41m Im good to go







A friend of mine has had a copy since before the internet existed.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I already know how make n4p41m Im good to go







A friend of mine has had a copy since before the internet existed.










I never had the foresight to get a copy, but uncle sam gave me some training in the area.


----------



## N2Gaming

I am happy to say I don't think I'll ever need to know any things of the sort and have a philosophy that I follow. Hear no eve, see no eve and speak no eve. Well it's hard for me to follow that philosophy sometimes. for instance this guy I know well nvm...


----------



## BlackOmega

The philosophy that I live by: Hurt no one, do as you will. It seems to be serving me pretty well.

EDIT: And its not a _need_ to know those things, I try to learn as much as possible about as much as possible. That and when I was a kid I was very intrigued by the military, so I learned a lto about it. I'd probably be a good soldier other than the fact that I would never kill anyone for someone else. Now if me or my family are threatened thats a whole different story.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


The philosophy that I live by: *Hurt no one, do as you will*. It seems to be serving me pretty well.

EDIT: And its not a [i[need[/i] to know those things, I try to learn as much as possible about as much as possible. That and when I was a kid I was very intrigued by the military, so I learned a lto about it. I'd probably be a good soldier other than the fact that *I would never kill anyone for someone else*. Now if me or my family are threatened thats a whole different story.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I'd probably be a good soldier other than the fact that I would never kill anyone for someone else. Now if me or my family are threatened thats a whole different story.


I feel the same exact way word for word...


----------



## Tator Tot

Hey guys, most of you are very noligable, and AMD enthusiasts, so if you could help me pick out/find a socket A motherboard for some heavy overclocking, post up here

Also, as a little note, I'm picking up an Gigabyte Nforce 4 SLi board for my socket 939 rigs. and I'm finally gonna be able to overclock that thing to see what it can do.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Hey guys, most of you are very noligable, and AMD enthusiasts, so if you could help me pick out/find a socket A motherboard for some heavy overclocking, post up here

Also, as a little note, I'm picking up an Gigabyte Nforce 4 SLi board for my socket 939 rigs. and I'm finally gonna be able to overclock that thing to see what it can do.


I don't know how much you're picking up that Gigabyte board for...but keep in mind there's a pretty decent deal on an A8N32-SLI Deluxe (in my sig) that'll reach 372 HTT







.


----------



## Bogeyone001

Hey,

Hows everything goin around here?


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*

























Don't ever download the Anarch$!$ts Han.d;b0Ork. unless you want to make a list you'll never get off of.











Funny, I just got done looking at it. Dang, its addictive!

(Anarch$!$ts Han.d;b0Ork)







(Me)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hey Bogey, we're all still here.









Question: Who else besides me has ambient temperatures above 90 degs C in his/her bedroom recently?

I'm not looking forward to coming home from the gym today...


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Hey Bogey, we're all still here.









Question: Who else besides me has ambient temperatures above 90 degs C in his/her bedroom recently?

I'm not looking forward to coming home from the gym today...


90 deg C is kind of warm for an ambient room temp!







lol

My room is nice and chilly, about 50 deg F


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *simfreak47*


90 deg C is kind of warm for an ambient room temp!







lol

My room is nice and chilly, about 50 deg F


simfreak, you win the "Understatement of the Day" award.









Oh, by the way, I hate you now, because of your ambient temperatures...


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


simfreak, you win the "Understatement of the Day" award.









Oh, by the way, I hate you now, because of your ambient temperatures...



















lolwut? Did I miss something?









My window's open, and its about 42 deg F outside.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Who else besides me has ambient temperatures above *90 degs C* in his/her bedroom recently?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Its 97*F here. It feels like its hotter inside than it is outside though oddly enough.


----------



## Blitz6804

Sorry Joe, I will not have anywhere near your ambients for a month or two yet. Right now, my heat still needs to be on to maintain 18Âº C inside while it is 8Âº C and falling outside. Supposedly, some snow flurries in the forecast tonight. To think, Sunday was a beautiful 19Âº C outside.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Except for pio, who knows what I'm talking about, I hate you all.







:swearing:










EDIT: I especially hate Blitz, for the record.

LOL


----------



## Blitz6804

I keep offering for you to move out east, and you keep scoffing at me...


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bogeyone001*


Hey,

Hows everything goin around here?


It's same O same O... How's your bike project coming along?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Ambient temperature report, 19:34 PST, txtmstrjoe's bedroom (right after he returned from a session at the gym): 33.8 degs C = 92.84 degs F

Yay me.


----------



## Hueristic

OMg, news just said over 80f this weekend!







I gotta relocate a few systems fast.









It's already an inferno in here. Guess I'm running Cat5 into the, Whoa just remembered I ran some into the addition when I built it! Time to hook it up.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hue, wanna trade locations?

On second thought, I'd rather go to 192.168.1.1 and crash at simfreak's.


















Oh, just to keep this on-topic somewhat, for the record this is the third year I've had my machine, and each year it gets beat up during summers and heatwaves like what L.A. is experiencing these last couple of days. The point I'm trying to make is, despite my "idle" temperatures being 47 degs at the cores at the moment, even if I loaded this baby up to maximum load right now, the max temperature it will reach is no more than about 55 degs C.

(Naked S939 chips FTW?)


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


It's same O same O... How's your bike project coming along?


all is well and my last part should be here next week sometime so ill have it done just in time for the summer


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Hue, wanna trade locations?


Sure you can hang on the east coast in my place And I'll head over there and chase those bikini babe's!

Quote:



On second thought, I'd rather go to 192.168.1.1 and crash at simfreak's.










OK I'll stay @ 127.0.0.1









Quote:



s C.

(Naked S939 chips FTW?)


That *is* sweet! If I didn't love my chip so much I'd go for it, but it's all working so well! I'm getting to old to fix it if it ain't broke.


----------



## BlackOmega

I have to agree Joe. My naked 3500+ is a testament to that. I;m still debating whether or not to strip my 3800









I'm off to see how high she will go stable.


----------



## Psykl0n

nvm, found answer


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Psykl0n* 
nvm, found answer

OK, I'll bite. To what?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bogeyone001* 
Hey,

Hows everything goin around here?

Bogeyone001, good good. I put together a old S939 system that should allow me to play some CS:S this summer









Hows things with you?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Ambient temperature report, 19:34 PST, txtmstrjoe's bedroom (right after he returned from a session at the gym): 33.8 degs C = 92.84 degs F

Yay me.









Joe, that is toasty bro. I came home today and it was about 85F in the house. I popped on the A/C to a cool 78F.


----------



## BlackOmega

Well heres my validation.


----------



## loony

Guys I have a new Personal Best O/C on this Chip with stock Volts and on air but not stable. Could you update my O/C with my new validation, http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=551522 thanks.

EDIT: Forgot to mention that my HT Link went from 800mhz to 920mhz, does this effect my O/C much?


----------



## DesertRat

I know I'm far from an active member here(s939 club) however I'm trying to trade-off some of my s939 gear for a good p45 board for my new q6600 here

If the active members here think it inappropriate I'll be glad to edit this post to nothing.









Thanks.


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *loony* 
Guys I have a new Personal Best O/C on this Chip with stock Volts and on air but not stable. Could you update my O/C with my new validation, http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=551522 thanks.

EDIT: Forgot to mention that my HT Link went from 800mhz to 920mhz, does this effect my O/C much?

As long as it's under 1,000MHz, then you're good to go









You won't notice much from 800 - 1000, anyway. Although I ran mine at 1060MHz.


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Well heres my validation.

OMG! Very nice OC!









How'd you get it stable? I couldn't get it stable for the life of me at 2.7GHz


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *simfreak47*


OMG! Very nice OC!









How'd you get it stable? I couldn't get it stable for the life of me at 2.7GHz










 This board seems to have _very_ good voltage regulation. Unlike most boards when I calculate the voltage on this one, it actually sets to what I set it to. Most of the other boards I have OC'd on would always be off about .025v if not more.

That and I paired it with my lapped Big Typhoon, even @ 1.536v it idles at ~30*C and it loads around 60*C. Mind you these are core temps not IHS, which shows even less 29*C @ idle and shows a max load temp of 41*C. 
I am getting a little too much temp difference from core to core though, at idle they're fairly close, at load there's almost 8*C difference.

I tried going for more last night, it seemed like it didn't want to go any higher. But I didn't isolate the board though. Supposedly these boards top out around 272 reference clock. I'll have to check the boards limit later.


----------



## Blitz6804

loony: Anything between 800 and 1100 is usually okay. Less than 800 you will get a massive hit on "real feel." Less than 850 and you will be a little slow. I know with my nForce3 board, it was 800 MHz by default. Overclocking it to 850 gave me a massive bump in the feel of the computer, from 850 to 1000 was a minor change.

All: You gotta love WNY weather. Sunday was 64Âº F. Right now, it is 45Âº F, and tonight we are supposed to be around 32Âº F with scattered snow showers. By Friday, they are saying 75Âº F and up. It will be nothing like Joe's hellfire, but its still warm considering what we are used to lately.

Joe: Seriously; you should move out east. Everything here is *MUCH* cheaper than you have. Rent, houses, foodstuffs, gas, taxes, et cetera. At least, I think gas is less, I am the most expensive city in New York State. Not to mention you will be closer to your girl and like 20 minutes away from the splendor of the Niagara river's most famous falls. If it helps any, we are not the snowiest city in New York (that goes to Syracuse), the rainiest city (Binghampton), or the most populated (New York). What Buffalo is is the sunniest city in New York State: we have more sunny days than any other city in the state.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

loony, I've updated the roster to reflect your new OC.









BlackOmega, I haven't done yours because I'm unsure about whether or not you'd want to supplant your higher-OCed Opty.







Let me know, though, if you want the new OC on the roster.










Blitz: If you could subsidize my move to the East Coast AND find me a job, I'd do it in a heartbeat. People who don't suffer through a sauna-like experience that is my bedroom in a heatwave or in the SoCal summer have no idea how brutal it is on ME, not to mention my machinery (I can always switch those off).


----------



## Blitz6804

If I could find myself a job, I would love to. But feel free to check BuffaloHelpWanted.com, WNYJobs.com (both advertised on the radio), Buffalo Job Finder, Career Builder, and any others. Niagara Falls, NY is about 20 minutes north of me. Buffalo, NY is about 15 minutes south-west of me. Batavia, NY is about 20 minutes East of me. Rochester is about 65 minutes east of me. Rochester gets more snow than Buffalo.

BlackOmega, when I get my desktop running again, I will add your overclock; the offsite has room for more than one CPU.


----------



## BlackOmega

Joe, nah don't supplant that particular OC, although I no longer have that board. I am going to be rearranging my rigs to their (somewhat) final configurations this weekend (hopefully). 
That way I can fold on 2 cards and 2 cores. Trying to get to that 10,000PPD mark.









As for your cooling situation, why don't you pick up a window A/C unit? I bet you can find them for relatively cheap, and since it's only going to be cooling one room it shouldn't use that much juice. And remember the bigger the better in this case, as a larger unit will cool that relatively small space very quickly and run a lot more efficiently.

EDIT:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


BlackOmega, when I get my desktop running again, I will add your overclock; the offsite has room for more than one CPU.


 Cool


----------



## txtmstrjoe

BlackOmega, I wish I could mount a window AC unit. However, since I'm only renting the apartment, I've got to respect the "no modifications" clause in my contract. To mount the AC unit would violate that term, so...









If circumstances are favorable (i.e., if I ever find enough time), I'll be starting my much-ballyhooed H2O build soon. If I can't be sufficiently cooled down by the summer months, at least my machine will be.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


BlackOmega, I wish I could mount a window AC unit. However, since I'm only renting the apartment, I've got to respect the "no modifications" clause in my contract. To mount the AC unit would violate that term, so...









If circumstances are favorable (i.e., if I ever find enough time), I'll be starting my much-ballyhooed H2O build soon. If I can't be sufficiently cooled down by the summer months, at least my machine will be.










Couldn't you just ask your landlords about a window AC unit? I'm sure they wouldn't complain, and you honestly don't have to "modify" anything to make one fit.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

No dice, pio. Been there, done that.

Landlord says adding a window AC unit would increase rent, and it would actually require modification of the windows.

(Before anyone asks, yes, I have been on the hunt for new digs for a while. Kinda hard to find an acceptable replacement within my budget, though.)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


(Before anyone asks, yes, I have been on the hunt for new digs for a while. Kinda hard to find an acceptable replacement within my budget, though.)


That and it just cost more to live here in California. You guys don't even want to know how much my mortgage is. Plus the value of my home basically went down the toilet









Good times!


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


That and it just cost more to live here in California. You guys don't even want to know how much my mortgage is. Plus the value of my home basically went down the toilet









Good times!


Got a few friends I frequently visit in Huntington Beach area...the cost of living their, compared to where I live (St. Louis Region of Missouri.) Well..its just crazy.


----------



## Blitz6804

If a double hung window, it should not require modification. BUT: worse case, buy a standalone air conditioner. It sits in the corner of a room and cools up to 15,000 BTU as far as I have seen. HOWEVER: you will need to periodically drain the bucket of water. Newegg sells them I believe, and I know for a fact Home Depot and Lowes sell them, as I have gotten coupons from both in the mail for them.


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz, most of those units use a "water spray" to cool the warm air. That can actually raise the humidity and make things feel warmer. How bad the humidity would be is unknown but that certainly wouldn't be good for electronics.

Just a thought...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


If a double hung window, it should not require modification. BUT: worse case, buy *a standalone air conditioner*. It sits in the corner of a room and cools up to 15,000 BTU as far as I have seen. HOWEVER: you will need to periodically drain the bucket of water. Newegg sells them I believe, and I know for a fact Home Depot and Lowes sell them, as I have gotten coupons from both in the mail for them.


Way ahead of you with that one, too. Not adequate for the kind of heat my bedroom absorbs throughout a hot day.









Bleh. My only hope is to find a suitable replacement. All I need is time and patience...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Way ahead of you with that one, too. Not adequate for the kind of heat my bedroom absorbs throughout a hot day.









Bleh. My only hope is to find a suitable replacement. All I need is time and patience...

Joe, I have an extra room available in my house. Rent is $500/week........


----------



## Blitz6804

What happened to that place you were looking to buy? Bought Amaya instead?

Joe and Thlnk3r under the same roof? MADNESS!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, I have an extra room available in my house. Rent is $500/week........

O rly?










You have AC, yes?










Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
What happened to that place you were looking to buy? Bought Amaya instead?

Yep. That, combined with not having enough capital for a house at the moment. My old car had entered the stage where it would need to be in the shop every other week just to keep running. It makes no sense to keep sinking money on a car that's breaking down...


----------



## HothBase

Kinda drifting away from the topic huh, guys? Nah, I don't mind. ^^
It's kinda sad to read about so many leaving 939 all of a sudden..


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
Kinda drifting away from the topic huh, guys? Nah, I don't mind. ^^
It's kinda sad to read about so many leaving 939 all of a sudden..









Honestly, it doesn't look like I will be still. Nobody's really biting onto any of my parts....and I'm not going to freaking give them away (sell them for less). So the hell with it. Looks like I may end up staying on 939 after all.....


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Honestly, it doesn't look like I will be still. Nobody's really biting onto any of my parts....and I'm not going to freaking give them away (sell them for less). So the hell with it. Looks like I may end up staying on 939 after all.....

We did that on purpose so youd stay









Joe what kind of car do you have, I may know some common areas of problems and potentially have or can get updated info that'll keep your car running.


----------



## Blitz6804

Was a Ford Probe V6; now he has a new Civic.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Was a Ford Probe V6; now he has a new Civic.

What year/model, or better yet Joe PM me your VIN (vehicle identification number) and tell me whats wrong with your car, I bet I can save you 20% or more on parts.









BTW, did you guys know I used to be a parts manager for a Honda and Acura dealer?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


What year/model, or better yet Joe PM me your VIN (vehicle identification number) and tell me whats wrong with your car, I bet I can save you 20% or more on parts.









BTW, did you guys know I used to be a parts manager for a Honda and Acura dealer?


BlackOmega, part of me wishes I'd discussed my auto adventures here. I could have had another option a couple of months ago.









On the other hand, I don't regret getting the Civic Si. So much fun to drive. I think I may have frightened thlnk3r when he rode shotgun last weekend, too, when I was driving him around his city.









Back on topic, though, I'm making one last final call to any S939 Club members who are also dedicated OCN folders. I have three people so far who have answered the call; I'm hoping for at least one, maybe two, more. Even more would be great!







As the first three respondents (they know who they are) already know now, there is an exciting opportunity awaiting you if you answer the call.









Simply PM me about the fact that you are both a S939 Club member and a dedicated OCN member.









This is the last call; if no others take advantage, the three respondents will be briefed on what's next either Sunday evening or very early next week.

Thanks, guys and doll.


----------



## BlackOmega

Well Joe next time your car needs repairs contact me. I can and will save you some cash on parts. And the parts will be original Honda parts not some cheap Chinese knock offs that fail rather quickly. 
Let me know.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Honestly, it doesn't look like I will be still. Nobody's really biting onto any of my parts....and I'm not going to freaking give them away (sell them for less). So the hell with it. Looks like I may end up staying on 939 after all.....


Pio, good idea. There is absolutely nothing wrong with those parts either. Stay with them and save some money.

Good luck


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Pio, good idea. There is absolutely nothing wrong with those parts either. Stay with them and save some money.

Good luck

Well...I'm debating on trading a few of my recently gotten Seagate ES.2 drives for the upgrade....but I'll have to run that idea past the guy I got them from. Otherwise, it looks like I may be closing my FS thread here over the weekend if there's no bites.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Well...I'm debating on trading a few of my recently gotten Seagate ES.2 drives for the upgrade....but I'll have to run that idea past the guy I got them from. Otherwise, it looks like I may be closing my FS thread here over the weekend if there's no bites.

I say ditch the seagates ASAP... My 500G just died on me yesterday... Well I have not tested it yet in another system to verify that it actually is the HDD and not the Sata ports on the mobo. Most of the times though I think it will be the HDD. System is not detecting the drive.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I say ditch the seagates ASAP... My 500G just died on me yesterday... Well I have not tested it yet in another system to verify that it actually is the HDD and not the Sata ports on the mobo. Most of the times though I think it will be the HDD. System is not detecting the drive.










N2Gaming, the ES.2 drives are enterprise class drives. They have a higher MTBF and are just built to be more reliable. Was your 500GB a AS series drive?

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, the ES.2 drives are enterprise class drives. They have a higher MTBF and are just built to be more reliable. Was your 500GB a AS series drive?

Good luck


ST3500320AS FTL







The dang'd HDD had barely seen any use...

Edit: The drive motor is not dead it's the electronics. When I plug this drive into any pc I physically hold the drive by the metal edges to feel if it spins up. Just as sure as I'm sitting here and writing this, it spins up. It could have been attacked by a firmware virus but my bet is on faulty circuitry that controls the drive. I read a lot of Seagate bashing here @ OCN...


----------



## Bogeyone001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Bogeyone001, good good. I put together a old S939 system that should allow me to play some CS:S this summer









Hows things with you?

pretty good.. just started a job working with snakes all day and almost done with my motorcycle project


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
ST3500320AS FTL







The dang'd HDD had barely seen any use...

Edit: The drive motor is not dead it's the electronics. When I plug this drive into any pc I physically hold the drive by the metal edges to feel if it spins up. Just as sure as I'm sitting here and writing this, it spins up. It could have been attacked by a firmware virus but my bet is on faulty circuitry that controls the drive. I read a lot of Seagate bashing here @ OCN...

There's good reason for the bashing they get.

I have two Seagate's that died within 4 months of being purchased new with the same symptoms you've described with your drive.
I've heard them called "One year wonders", being if it lasts a year, it's a wonder.
Since then, I've run nothing but WD's and so far, no failures to report, even from the one I've had since Dec 01. Still going strong and believe me, it's been used throughout it's life.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
There's good reason for the bashing they get.

I have two Seagate's that died within 4 months of being purchased new with the same symptoms you've described with your drive.
I've heard them called "One year wonders", being if it lasts a year, it's a wonder.
Since then, I've run nothing but WD's and so far, no failures to report, even from the one I've had since Dec 01. Still going strong and believe me, it's been used throughout it's life.


Now that you mention it. I remember when I was working @ Arista Corporation right about the time of your first WD purchase, We had a lot of customers displeased w/the Cheata drives due to their high amount of failure rate. Of course I did not know nearly as much back then as I do now. Back then there was still Quantum some 10 minutes down the freeway. They later became known as Maxtor or vise versa.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I've got experience with Maxtor, Seagate, and Western Digital.

The Maxtor failed in two and a half years; the two Seagates I bought last year had weird problems two weeks after purchase.

My best experiences have been with Western Digital. I've had maybe six or seven, and none have failed me yet.







So I think it's obvious which company's drives get the nod from me.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I've got experience with Maxtor, Seagate, and Western Digital.

The Maxtor failed in two and a half years; the two Seagates I bought last year had weird problems two weeks after purchase.

My best experiences have been with Western Digital. I've had maybe six or seven, and none have failed me yet.







So I think it's obvious which company's drives get the nod from me.










Older Maxtor drives that I know of aren't too bad and I have one that's been going since 2002 - And was fished from a dumpster ( Yes.... I've gone dumpster-diving for parts before).









I base it's age since it has a build date on it's label of May 02. I've noted since Maxtor was boughtout/merged with Seagate, their quality hasn't been the same since.

I even have a REALLY old and small WD drive that's only 85MB's in size (Caviar 280/WDAC280-00S, dated Dec 92) and still works well, even if it's small and slow. Found that one in the dumpster too.


----------



## BlackOmega

I've honestly have had good experiences with all of the manufacturers. All of my WD drives work great no complaints, they are a little loud, but whatever it doesn't really bother me.
I bought a Seagate 400GB drive ~4.5 years ago and its still working great to this day, and that drive is considerably quieter than any of my WD drives.
The maxtor I have was part of the Dell that the Seagate lives in now. And I was using this Maxtor drive up until recently where I do believe that it has finally kicked the bucket. Considering it was built Aug. 02, 2001 I have no complaints. It has lived a fruitful life and I sure have gotten a lot of use out of it.

Seagate drives didn't used to be bad. I have heard of the firmware issue with a lot of their 500GB drives specifically. But all that they usually needed was an update and supposedly that took care of it.

Now all of this HDD talk has got me thinking. Do you guys think that drives bought OEM have a higher failure rate than retail drives? I would imagine that they do since there isn't any real padding around them. And while some drives get packaged well other most likely do not. I wonder how many of the "bad" drives were actually bad when they left the warehouse? (not talking about the firmware Seagates) And then I wonder how many of them were actually damaged during shipping. I would imagine that more of them get damaged during shipping than actually being a bad product.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


ST3500320AS FTL







The dang'd HDD had barely seen any use...


N2Gaming, what kind of symptoms are you experiencing with this drive? There was quite a few AS drives from Seagate that were plagued with faulty firmware. Apparently a lot of problems were fixed with a simple firmware flash.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

BlackOmega: All drives I have ever owned have been OEM instead of Retail. Only once have I had a drive fail on me (Western Digital 80 GB ATA-133). Western Digital said the failure I had was manufacturing defect, and because of that, they replaced it even after my warranty expired since the drive was essentially a ticking time bomb. Took it 2.5 years to "blow up." I was able to back up all data before shipping for RMA. They could not replace it with the same drive, since it was no longer manufactered, and so they could send me either the new 60 GB SATA-I, or since I lacked SATA capability, they sent me a 120 GB ATA-133.


----------



## N2Gaming

nice, Blitz steps up from a 80G to some 40G more for a 120G HDD. What is the actual amount of usable space you see w/the 120G is it like 115G?


----------



## Blitz6804

About 113 GiB after formatting. The drive presently is not used since my motherboard only has one ATA controller, and you cannot put a DVD drive and an HDD on the same controller.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


About 113 GiB after formatting. The drive presently is not used since my motherboard only has one ATA controller, and you cannot put a DVD drive and an HDD on the same controller.


Why not??? I was not aware of this phenomenon.







That could explain some problems of the past. I was under the impression all you would have to do is set the master slave jumpers on the HDD and the DVD... Hmm. Interesting


----------



## Blitz6804

I had the jumpers set properly. However, you cannot write from the DVD to the HDD no matter how I set the jumpers or cable. (Could not install Windows.) Not using it in this purpose may work, but it is generally a bad idea to mix and match. Put all optical drives on one cable; all HDDs on the other.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Why not??? I was not aware of this phenomenon.







That could explain some problems of the past. I was under the impression all you would have to do is set the master slave jumpers on the HDD and the DVD... Hmm. Interesting


Not 100% sure how to explain it, but it has something to do with the way the IDE controller handles the signals it is given.


----------



## N2Gaming

OK thanks guys. I now can officially say that I learned some good information today.









Now if I could only remember half of what I have learned so far.


----------



## Blitz6804

Think of it this way... you can be disparaging to your children: "I have forgotten more than you will ever learn." *Chuckles.*


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I had the jumpers set properly. However, you cannot write from the DVD to the HDD no matter how I set the jumpers or cable. (Could not install Windows.) Not using it in this purpose may work, but it is generally a bad idea to mix and match. Put all optical drives on one cable; all HDDs on the other.


Actually Blitz, I hate to disagree here....but I've only seen that phenomenon happen ONCE. The motherboard in question had a screwy IDE controller. Otherwise, the motherboard should be able to handle an IDE HDD and Optical on the same cable. I've done it thousands of times without a problem.


----------



## Blitz6804

I have only tried it on my GA-K8NSC-939. Windows XP would not hear of installing itself on the coupled hard drive. I put them on two separate cables, and it worked fine.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Actually Blitz, I hate to disagree here....but I've only seen that phenomenon happen ONCE. The motherboard in question had a screwy IDE controller. Otherwise, the motherboard should be able to handle an IDE HDD and Optical on the same cable. I've done it thousands of times without a problem.


It depends on SB.

The Southbridge 710, ICH9, ICH10, 700, 750, 600, & most new Southbridges have issues with mixing ODD & HDD on the same IDE channel.


----------



## N2Gaming

Has any one successfully used two or more IDE Drives w/the cable select option. I have never tried it and was always curious how that works.


----------



## Blitz6804

Two HDDs on an IDE cable with the jumpers set to "Cable Select" worked fine on my nForce3 939 board, both Skt A boards, and my slot A board. I did not try it on anything newer than nForce3.


----------



## Tator Tot

I always leave my Socket A & 478 stuff to "cable select"

It just works out easier for me that way. Because I always put the "master" drive in the top HDD slot.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Actually Blitz, I hate to disagree here....but I've only seen that phenomenon happen ONCE. The motherboard in question had a screwy IDE controller. Otherwise, the motherboard should be able to handle an IDE HDD and Optical on the same cable. I've done it thousands of times without a problem.


Pioneer, same here. My neighbor next to me has a optical drive and hard drive on the same channel. The only real downfall to doing this is that the hard drive will just default to the optical drives speed (ATA-66). Hardly an issue though if you're just browsing the internet, checking email, word/excel ect.

N2Gaming, check my above post #15120. I think you might of missed it









Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, what kind of symptoms are you experiencing with this drive? There was quite a few AS drives from Seagate that were plagued with faulty firmware. Apparently a lot of problems were fixed with a simple firmware flash.

Good luck


Well if a hardware flash fixes this problem, then I think I'm a day late and a dollar short. None of my computers detect the drive... The drive spins up but is not listed in the detected drives screen and when I go into bios the drive is not listed as a installed drive as well. I am using other sata drives so it's not a simple bios switch that needs to be enabled.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Well if a hardware flash fixes this problem, then I think I'm a day late and a dollar short. None of my computers detect the drive... The drive spins up but is not listed in the detected drives screen and when I go into bios the drive is not listed as a installed drive as well. I am using other sata drives so it's not a simple bios switch that needs to be enabled.

N2Gaming, I highly recommend contacting Seagate about this. Drives that did not have the SD15 firmware were plagued with issues. This is a very well known issue and I'm almost positive Seagate would owner a RMA regardless of how long ago you purchased the drive. Here is the link to Seagates contact information: http://www.seagate.com/www/en-us/about/contact_us/.

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I had the jumpers set properly. However, you cannot write from the DVD to the HDD no matter how I set the jumpers or cable. (Could not install Windows.) Not using it in this purpose may work, but it is generally a bad idea to mix and match. Put all optical drives on one cable; all HDDs on the other.



Its the same way on my DFIs'. When I tried to run just one IDE cable for the DVD and HDD it didn't work, I had to run 2 separate cables.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, I highly recommend contacting Seagate about this. Drives that did not have the SD15 firmware were plagued with issues. This is a very well known issue and I'm almost positive Seagate would owner a RMA regardless of how long ago you purchased the drive. Here is the link to Seagates contact information: http://www.seagate.com/www/en-us/about/contact_us/.

Good luck









I just got my RMA number after speaking w/what sounded like a very lovely girl for at least 30 min .and I'm trying to see how much the data recovery would cost me so that I don't have to reinstall re validate windows reinstall all my games and then get back to the levels that I was at. Thanks btw for the link you saved me about 2 weeks as I would not have been as motivated to get the RMA.







I know









Thank you,

N2G


----------



## Kryton

Guys, it time for another CPU-Z post.
Updating my 175's entry and it's a doozy - Pure suicide run if you will on air. Went ahead and reposted the basic system specs for convenience.

175 Opteron LCB9E 0652 @ 1.82v on air








DFI LP UT NF4 Expert
2x256MB OCZ PC4400 @ 242MHz CL2 4-4-7 1T / 3.50v

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=552462

The fact my job involves HVAC work should explain why I can do stuff like this on air and get away with it without the PC taking a really long smokebreak.
I do believe though my OCZ's may have paid the price for getting it done.









N2, posting this one up in your thread too.


----------



## Blitz6804

Why did you need 3.50 V on the RAM to do DDR 482? Oh... CL2... nevermind.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Guys, it time for another CPU-Z post.
Updating my 175's entry and it's a doozy - Pure suicide run if you will on air. Went ahead and reposted the basic system specs for convenience.

175 Opteron LCB9E 0652 @ 1.82v on air








DFI LP UT NF4 Expert
2x256MB OCZ PC4400 @ 242MHz CL2 4-4-7 1T / 3.50v

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=552462

The fact my job involves HVAC work should explain why I can do stuff like this on air and get away with it without the PC taking a really long smokebreak.
I do believe though my OCZ's may have paid the price for getting it done.









N2, posting this one up in your thread too.

Man that's only 11.77MHz away from a, oh wait your on a 175 not a 180 so you pretty much broke the 1Ghz overclock club. congrats. Hope your ocz's live if not there is always the lifetime warranty, which is better then a dead or pair of deat ram modules, even if they are of different IC chips.


----------



## Blitz6804

The OCZ warranty is voided by extreme voltages. They permit you some 10-20 mV depending on the model, but not much else.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
The OCZ warranty is voided by extreme voltages. They permit you some 10-20 mV depending on the model, but not much else.

I'm not worried about the warranty since they are pushing 4 years old. If I were to send them in, I don't believe I'd get another set like them anyway.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
I'm not worried about the warranty since they are pushing 4 years old. If I were to send them in, I don't believe I'd get another set like them anyway.

You could always try to put them in the freezer and then in the oven and back in the freezer. Give me a minute I'll see if I can dig up that thread.


----------



## BlackOmega

Wow nice OC kryton. I wonder, if you were able to keep the temps low enough, if it would be stable







Then run some benchs and show these intel fools whats up


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
You could always try to put them in the freezer and then in the oven and back in the freezer. Give me a minute I'll see if I can dig up that thread.










I've seen this trick before and it may work, maybe not. Wrap 'em up with saran wrap and pop them in, let them sit overnight and remove. Make sure no condensation is on them before popping them in the PC and test.

Serving size - One stick per RAM slot.









Never heard of them being baked before....

BO, I'm looking foward to finishing up my WC setup. Maybe I can do something about that later, esp since as stated earlier I'm working on an AM3 build with a X3 720 BE here.
Funds are short and may be for awhile but I'll get it done sooner or later - Then show the Intel guys something.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I just got my RMA number after speaking w/what sounded like a very lovely girl for at least 30 min .and I'm trying to see how much the data recovery would cost me so that I don't have to reinstall re validate windows reinstall all my games and then get back to the levels that I was at. Thanks btw for the link you saved me about 2 weeks as I would not have been as motivated to get the RMA.







I know









N2Gaming, data recovery might be a bit more expensive. All though if they are able to just flash the firmware for you at Seagate then it may be fine. If the firmware is flashed then the data should be intact still.

EDIT:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Guys, it time for another CPU-Z post.
Updating my 175's entry and it's a doozy - Pure suicide run if you will on air. Went ahead and reposted the basic system specs for convenience.

175 Opteron LCB9E 0652 @ 1.82v on air








DFI LP UT NF4 Expert
2x256MB OCZ PC4400 @ 242MHz CL2 4-4-7 1T / 3.50v

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=552462

Kryton, sorry I missed your post. This is a very nice overclock









Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, data recovery might be a bit more expensive. All though if they are able to just flash the firmware for you at Seagate then it may be fine. If the firmware is flashed then the data should be intact still.

Good luck

Yup that was part of my boo hoo spill to the girl issuing the rma # She did not handle data recovery and that is a different department. Hey wait a second. They could have designed these drives to fail on purpose. Now if I could only prove it then we'd have a enormous litigation on our hands.


----------



## Quantum Reality

Have a S939 folding box -

Athlon64 3000+ at stock (1.8 GHz); CPU-Z validation here.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Please welcome our newest member, Quantum Reality.


----------



## thlnk3r

Welcome Quantum Reality to the club


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Kryton, sorry I missed your post. This is a very nice overclock









Good luck


Thank you thlnk3r!

May as well carry on while my luck is still hot. 
Will test the 180, one of my 4000+ chips and retest the X2.

Will postup with these before too long.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

OMG, Kryton, that is one AWESOME OC with your Opty 175!









What stepping is that chip?

Hubba hubba


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*









OMG, Kryton, that is one AWESOME OC with your Opty 175!









What stepping is that chip?

Hubba hubba



It's a LCB9E 0652 chip.

Have an entry for my 180 I'll be posting up shortly.

EDIT: 
Here's the promised entry with the 180 and also did one with one of my 4000+ San Diego chips.

Opteron 180 LCB9E 0702 = 3351MHz @ 1.82v
DFI LP UT NF4 Expert
2x512MB Patriot PC4000 @ 186MHz / 3-3-3-11 1T @ 3.09v
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=552577

4000+ San Diego LCBBE 0633 = 3215MHz @ 1.79v
DFI LP UT NF4 Expert
2x512MB Patriot PC4000 @ 200MHz / 2.5-3-3-9 1T @ 3.09v
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=552578

The San Diego entered here isn't the best one I have. If memory serves me correctly, it's the slowest one out of the three I own. Haven't done much benching with these lately.


----------



## BlackOmega

Wow man some nice OC's there. Voltages are a little on the crazy side. I dont think I'd ever run that much voltage through my 180, the most its ever seen is 1.40v & 65*C at the core.


----------



## thlnk3r

Kryton, those are some very nice oveclocks. DFI boards sure do live up to their reputation!

Good luck


----------



## Quantum Reality

Thanks for the greetings, all.









Wonder if I could get any kind of OC out of that 3000+; not that it really matters considering the thing is solely for GPU folding (it's a single core). But if I ever use it for something else, would anyone have any precedents for how far I should expect an OC to go on stock cooling?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Quantum Reality* 
Thanks for the greetings, all.









Wonder if I could get any kind of OC out of that 3000+; not that it really matters considering the thing is solely for GPU folding (it's a single core). But if I ever use it for something else, would anyone have any precedents for how far I should expect an OC to go on stock cooling?

200-400MHz overclock on stock cooling, it would however be on the higher side of your temperature limits...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Quantum Reality*


Thanks for the greetings, all.









Wonder if I could get any kind of OC out of that 3000+; not that it really matters considering the thing is solely for GPU folding (it's a single core). But if I ever use it for something else, would anyone have any precedents for how far I should expect an OC to go on stock cooling?


Quantum Reality, it's difficult to say definitively. Overclocking results are never guaranteed.







But factors that would influence the outcome include the quality of your CPU, whether or not your motherboard has got the necessary BIOS adjustments available to facilitate a good, reliable overclock, the effectiveness of your cooling equipment, the stability of your power supply, your ambient temperatures, as well as other considerations.









The only way to truly know is to get stuck in and give things a shot.









Good luck.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Quantum Reality*


Wonder if I could get any kind of OC out of that 3000+; not that it really matters considering the thing is solely for GPU folding (it's a single core). But if I ever use it for something else, would anyone have any precedents for how far I should expect an OC to go on stock cooling?


Quantum, head over to amdgeeks.net and check out the overclocking database. Sort by _Processor_ and then _Model_. That may give you some ideas on what to look forward to. Again though as Joe stated nothing is guaranteed when it comes to overclocking.

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

S939ers, quick question: Who amongst us here runs water cooling presently? And who amongst us will be taking the plunge for sure?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
S939ers, quick question: Who amongst us here runs water cooling presently? And who amongst us will be taking the plunge for sure?

I will eventually when ever I get a round to it.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I will eventually when ever I get a round to it.









N2G, have you already selected your components? What's going into your loop?


----------



## Tator Tot

I run water on a friends rig. I picked and purchased for him, you need advice Joe?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


I run water on a friends rig. I picked and purchased for him, you need advice Joe?


Hi TT!

Just curious, actually, about who amongst us will be going swimming.









I've got my kit all ready (except for the case, which needs some modification before I stuff everything in there), but I haven't gotten started on building yet. I'm sure, though, that I'll run into roadblocks soon enough.









Then my wet dream will become a reality at last.


----------



## Blitz6804

I lack the money to go underwater. I had looked into some self-contained kits, told they were all garbage, and gave up. Believe me, if I had the funds, I likely would. My overclock is presently temperature limited.


----------



## Tator Tot

My current None of my Overclocks have been temp limited. But it may be to my tower coolers apposed to your down draft. And that my coolers always dump air strait out of the case. never back in.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Hi TT!

Just curious, actually, about who amongst us will be going swimming.









I've got my kit all ready (except for the case, which needs some modification before I stuff everything in there), but I haven't gotten started on building yet. I'm sure, though, that I'll run into roadblocks soon enough.









Then my wet dream will become a reality at last.










Ah, I've considered it a few times. I have a few parts for water sitting in my closets at the moment. Radiator, Tubing, pump. But I'm holding off till I fully go AM3. And then just go at it.

Though, I'm not fully sure if I want to yet, or not. I have my own personally worries about Water Cooling, but I've built 2 loops (first one was a real nightmare, but taught a lot.)

At the end of the day, I'll probably go water. Just so I don't have to take this box apart.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
N2G, have you already selected your components? What's going into your loop?

No that's part of the issue, I don't know exactly what I want to use and or how to get the best bang for my buck so to speak.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
No that's part of the issue, I don't know exactly what I want to use and or how to get the best bang for my buck so to speak.

If you need, I could help you with that. Just give me a budget, and what socket & gpu (if WC the gpu) you are planning on using. And I could whip it up pretty fast.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


If you need, I could help you with that. Just give me a budget, and what socket & gpu (if WC the gpu) you are planning on using. And I could whip it up pretty fast.


Thanks Tator.

A budgeted H2O system is not what I have in mind. I'm looking to use a system that has all same materials if at all possible "except for the lines of course" wheather it be steel, aluminum, brass or copper. AMD's AM2 & or AM2+ CPU. For now it would just be a single CPU loop. I may do a couple of GPU loops down the road w/a chipset loop as well but might just purchase the gpu's w/H2O blocks pre-built into the cards for quicker installation w/factory warranty.







As for the chipset I would have to be able to get a chipset block that is thin enough w/the in/out flow tubes running horizontal instead of vertical as to permit the use of all my GPU slots.

So for now Lets just say one loop to a Phenom II X4 940 BE w/a decent H2O pump and rad so that I have room for expansion later on if needed.









It's easy to see why I have been so pesamistic with so many things to consider when building the H2O coolant system.









Thank you,

N2G

Edit: I'm not apposed to using second hand parts as long as they were built w/quality materials and were not neglected or miss used by improper types of fluids etc... Cooling systems on a computer can be very complex and just like a cooling system in a car that had steel and aluminum parts there is always the risk of fluid contamination, cooling system materials breaking down from improperly used fluids I.E. " Here is a quick read " water pump, cooling blocks and radiator tubes.etc etc can be damaged very quickly by Electralisis . Although I have never used a H2O system in a PC I have done some research for proper flushing of old fluid and fluid replacement in my vehicles w/aluminum and steel combination motors. Namely My 98 Buick Regal GS and 03 Chevy S-10 LS Xtream P/U truck. So This is another reason for my pessimistic approach to a Decent H2O system.


----------



## BlackOmega

I have thought about going H2O but the thought of something rupturing (N2's venus comes to mind) and taking my whole system out ,keeps me from taking "the Plunge". But I have knocked around the idea of using a thermo-electric cooler, such as the ultra Chill-Tec.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


No that's part of the issue, I don't know exactly what I want to use and or how to get the best bang for my buck so to speak.


It's expensive compared to the others but it's one of the best too. 
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835108082

One nice feature is you can adjust the pump's flowrate if you have to. Alot of folks say this pump is capable of more waterflow than you'd need on it's highest setting.

The pump is one thing you should worry about since it's the heart of any WC'ing system. Never skimp on one of these.

I have two of the above waiting to be used and right now working on getting my res mounted where I want it, then to see what else I need to do. That's where I stand for now.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


It's expensive compared to the others but it's one of the best too. 
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835108082

The flowrate can be adjusted to suit the needs of your system, good for tuning your setup.

The pump is one thing you should worry about since it's the heart of any WC'ing system. Never skimp on one of these.

I have two of the above waiting to be used and right now working on getting my res mounted where I want it, then to see what else I need to do. That's where I stand for now.


 That looks like a fine pump indeed. Especially when you consider the variable speed control for 5 different flow rates. I also wish to install a digital flow sensor & meter so that I know the instant that I have a problem w/the flow of water to prevent accidental death of system from heat...







:swearing:


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


It's expensive compared to the others but it's one of the best too. 
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835108082

One nice feature is you can adjust the pump's flowrate if you have to. Alot of folks say this pump is capable of more waterflow than you'd need on it's highest setting.

The pump is one thing you should worry about since it's the heart of any WC'ing system. Never skimp on one of these.

I have two of the above waiting to be used and right now working on getting my res mounted where I want it, then to see what else I need to do. That's where I stand for now.


Kryton, is that the "Vario" water pump?


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Kryton, is that the "Vario" water pump?


Not sure but it is a variable flowrate pump. It's been said the headpressure this thing can deliver is impressive, perhaps even dangerous if you should crank it up. 
Most have said from what I gather a setting of "2" out of 1-5 is what most use with their setups.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Aha. It IS the Vario.









My pump is the non-vario, erm, variation of that model.

I wonder if the ability to set the flow rate manually is a big advantage indeed (or, alternatively, if the inability to set the flow rate is a big DISadvantage).


----------



## N2Gaming

I was just looking at other alternatives to water pumps and found a couple of fish tank pumps. Here have a look see for yourself at the wide range of prices and quality and warranty periods.

http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/prod...ank_water_pump

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/pet_supplies.cfm?c=3578+4585&ref=4032&subref=AA&s_ kwcid=TC|6788|fish%20tank%20water%20pump||S|p|9145 35141

http://www.aquariumguys.com/waterpumps1.html


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Aha. It IS the Vario.









My pump is the non-vario, erm, variation of that model.

I wonder if the ability to set the flow rate manually is a big advantage indeed (or, alternatively, if the inability to set the flow rate is a big DISadvantage).










Just saw that myself reading through the reviews on it.

Being able to adjust the flowrate is an advantage. If the water is moving too fast, it doesn't have time to absorb as much heat energy as it could if moving at a slower rate or get rid of it quickly enough via the radiator. 
It's like when you run your automobile without a thermostat. The water flows so quickly, it doesn't have time to pickup all the heat to move it nor dissipate what it does get properly through the radiator, making the vehicle overheat due to heat buildup.
Usually the problem is not being able to remove the heat fast enough and it gets recirculated through the engine, hence the buildup. 
This ability to adjust the flowrate will let you tune the system for maximum cooling efficiency.

Had to edit this a few times to get it right and understandable....


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Aha. It IS the Vario.









My pump is the non-vario, erm, variation of that model.

I wonder if the ability to set the flow rate manually is a big advantage indeed (or, alternatively, if the inability to set the flow rate is a big DISadvantage).










tmj, I would think a typical variable voltage control switch or rheo would work on your pump for reduced or increased flow rates.

EDIT:

So far *THIS* is the only thing that I could come up w/that may even be anything close to what might do the trick.


----------



## Blitz6804

The problem with using a rheostat on a pump would be finding a hefty enough one to handle it. The typical rheostat is good to only 6-8 W. I know this from shopping misfortune trying to find a rheostat for my Ultra-Kaze.


----------



## Kryton

This is the block I got for my setup.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835202009

There are others that's probrably better but it will do for now. Price isn't too bad but this site has WC'ing stuff too...
http://www.dangerden.com/store/


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
The problem with using a rheostat on a pump would be finding a hefty enough one to handle it. The typical rheostat is good to only 6-8 W. I know this from shopping misfortune trying to find a rheostat for my Ultra-Kaze.

Sounds like the same luck I had finding one for my Tornado.

As for flow rates, you can always adjust flow rates, it just depends on how you want to do it and with how much ease. Because you can always install a washer with a certain diameter hole in it that will effectively regulate flow, although it'll more than likely increase pressure.


----------



## N2Gaming

http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/sto...atalogId=10001

I found several electrical items at Jameco in the past for a very reasonable price. They might have a cheap effective adjustable 12v switch for your pump txtmstrjoe. I would call them to find out if they have any thing available in a $5-$10 or less price range. Looking for something like that in there online catelog can be difficult to say the least especially if you don't know the name of the part.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Sounds like the same luck I had finding one for my Tornado.

As for flow rates, you can always adjust flow rates, it just depends on how you want to do it and with how much ease. Because you can always install a washer with a certain diameter hole in it that will effectively regulate flow, although it'll more than likely increase pressure.

It will increase the pressure and make the pump work harder, dumping more heat into the system but not enough to make a real difference if the rest is OK.
Biggest thing I'd worry about is with increased pressure, the chance of a leak goes up too.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
It will increase the pressure and make the pump work harder, dumping more heat into the system but not enough to make a real difference if the rest is OK.
Biggest thing I'd worry about is with increased pressure, the chance of a leak goes up too.

good info, I was wondering about the effects of too much pressure and if it could likely cause a premature failure of the system due to leaks. This brings up another point of interest. Inside diameter of your tubing and other components. like the radiator having a bigger diameter would drop your pressure and slow the flow increasing the time the water is in the radiator. Would that effectively allow your radiator to cool the water better or do you think it would make any difference at all???


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
good info, I was wondering about the effects of too much pressure and if it could likely cause a premature failure of the system due to leaks. This brings up another point of interest. Inside diameter of your tubing and other components. like the radiator having a bigger diameter would drop your pressure and slow the flow increasing the time the water is in the radiator. Would that effectively allow your radiator to cool the water better or do you think it would make any difference at all???

Yes, it would help your thermal efficiency.
Based on ambient temps, you'll only get it to cool so far but the idea is to remove as much heat as possible before sending it back into the system to pickup more heat for removal. Also be sure the rad has as many fans covering it's surface as possible. One fan right in the middle is OK but won't cool as well as having the max amount of surface area of the rad covered with fans.
Set it up outside the case away from the exhaust fan's flow or any heatsourse the fans could pickup heat from and it should be fine.

BTW, Tygon hose is recomended for setups if you can get it, esp if you think you'll have problems with pressure building up in the system. Soft, vinyl hose isn't the best thing to use when you consider some of the system's hoses will be warm doing their job removing heat.


----------



## nepas

Well I found the cause of my problems about not being able to run in dual channel,good news is its not my DFI,bad news is its my Opty that wont run in dual.The damm thing will not run in dual channel and it keeps locking up the system even at stock,so it looks like the chip is dying


----------



## N2Gaming

nepas, I returned a opty 180 recently for very similiar reasons. I had a bad vibe about the ebay opty purchase w/a set of OCZ pc3200 plats that were labled differntly then they were showing up as in cpuz so the seller offered me a full refund.

Sorry to hear about your dying CPU, it's too bad things don't live forever


----------



## Hueristic

http://www.overclock.net/hardware-ne...quad-core.html


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nepas*


Well I found the cause of my problems about not being able to run in dual channel,good news is its not my DFI,bad news is its my Opty that wont run in dual.The damm thing will not run in dual channel and it keeps locking up the system even at stock,so it looks like the chip is dying










Nepas, sorry to hear the bad news. How did you come to the conclusion that your Opteron processor was bad? Have you tested with another dual core S939? Did you test your current Opty with another set of dual channel memory?

Good luck


----------



## nepas

Tested with 2x1gb sticks of G.Skill and 2x512mb sticks of Ballistix in two boards,1.DFI Ultra D,2. WinFast 6150K8MA-8EKRS.Same results on both boards,wont not run dual channel and random freezes.At the moment I am running a 3500+ in my DFI with the G.Skill with no problems. http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=553883

After a quick look on ebay I may have found a worthy replacement,an FX-60 + free ninja cooler,going REALLY cheap


----------



## thlnk3r

Nepas, ugg that stinks. I suppose it's too late to RMA the processor? When did you purchase it?

Good luck


----------



## nepas

its way too late for RMA,I lapped it 2 years ago....


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nepas*


its way too late for RMA,I lapped it 2 years ago....


 O damn that really sucks. Well I suppose you could always run it in single channel and have it fold


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey guys I have a quick question about my dead Seagate HDD. If it's just the firmware that is dead then is that on the outside of the drive on the circuit board and if I replaced the firmware circuit board would I be able to use the drive again as if nothing was ever wrong w/it or does each firmware circuit board store information about the MBR? I want to try to swop the circuit board to see if I don't have to loose all my data and OEM windows installation.

Thank you,

N2G


----------



## Blitz6804

Lookie what I just found out:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *radodrill* 
BFRD added options for 70 ppp and 100 ppp; I'm using 100









I do too now!

N2Gaming: Do any Linux LiveCDs see the drive? Does the BIOS? I recall you said Windows cannot find it, but maybe Linux, permitting you to backup data prior to shipping it out.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Lookie what I just found out:I do too now!

N2Gaming: Do any Linux LiveCDs see the drive? Does the BIOS? I recall you said Windows cannot find it, but maybe Linux, permitting you to backup data prior to shipping it out.

Blitz the bios does not detect the HDD on any of my PC's

Yea I was offered the option for a advanced shipped drive for the shipping charges. So when I get the new replacement drive I'm considering swapping out the circuit board to see if I can retrieve my data prior to swapping the circuit boards back to the original HDD's

Thank you,

N2G


----------



## Blitz6804

I do not recommend doing that. If by some chance you happen to kill it, you will have to pay for the advanced drive, not to mention that the warranty on both of them will be gone.


----------



## N2Gaming

Honestly there is not way to damage the drive or the circuit board when there is no power to it " except for static electricity which is no more of a hazard when working on any circuit board " there is no cables that get plugged into the HDD they are all spring type gold plated spring like connectors that just sit on the HDD to make contact w/the circuit board. I will post a couple of pictures. In any case If I am sent a new HDD and I swop out the circuit board is it possible for the data on the HDD to be lost if the new circuit board has a different HDD firmware version or am I safe in that sense. I'm not worried about damaging any drives. Additionally I don't think that I should have to pay a rediculouse amount of money to recover my data so I'm simply trying to do the same thing that the manufacture would do and charge me an arm and leg for.









I'll get you all a few pictures so you all can see what I'm talking about when it comes to the connections between the HDD and circuit board.

Edit: here are the pictures of the drive disassembled.

This is before I removed the circuit board









This is w/the circuit board removed









This is the close up of the HDD side disk motor connections









This is a close up of the circuit board side of the disk motor connections









This is a close up of the disk side of the data connections









This is the circuit board side of the data connections









So with those pictures do you still think it is possible to damage the HDD from removing and replacing a identical circuit board?

Thank you,

N2G


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes. You could inadvertently bend a pin or crush an EEPROM. What if they send you a drive of a different revision with the circuit in a different orientation? Different voltages at play? Even without damaging anything, removing the circuit board would almost certainly void your warranty, and it would be dishonest of you to still try to have them respect a now-void warranty.


----------



## BlackOmega

It looks pretty straight forward enough. Give it a shot see what happens. Worst case scenario if it does for some reason damage the drive or whatever you can always say that you received it that way.

So I just reseated my GPU (9600GSO) using thermalrightes chillfactor (Courtesy of Joe







) and wow what a difference. With the stock thermal paste folding @ 100%, @ 100% fan speed sitting in a ~27*C room it churns away @ ~65*C. My other card after reseating with Chillfactor, same settings folding @ 100% 49*C. PCB @ 41*C

EDIT: 2200 posts









edit2: was wrong [email protected] didn't like my gpu oc and shut down, dropped my shader 1 step seems fine. temps- 61*c gpu & 48 pcb.


----------



## N2Gaming

OK. Thanks for your honest answer.

Now theoretically speaking if I were to receive identical hardware and it all matched up. I was not thinking about different voltages.







Yet here we are again w/all the moral chit chat. I would not try to use hardware that was not identical. Additionally it is not good practice for a manufacture to continue to allow retailers to sell HDD's w/known issues and then charge the end user data recovery fee's. So I fell like







when it comes to my situation and my data. I know HDD's fail and we all have to do backups etc to protect against these things but I also feel the manufacture should do the data recovery as a curtesy to the end user when they allow the Retailers to sell HDD's w/known issues.


----------



## Blitz6804

Retailers sell motherboards with outdated BIOSes all the time, sometimes to the point where some processors will not work with them until you flash them. (Pez's brother has had this problem I believe.) There is not a major difference between this and a firmware being out of date. The problem was made aware to the manufacturer and they offered a firmware fix to rectify the problem. If you did not apply the manufacturer-supplied fix before the drive died, then I really do not think the manufacturer is liable to recover your data. On the other hand, if the drive died due to some manufacturing defect that you could do nothing to prevent, fix, or indeed, know about, then I think your argument would be stronger. Here, you are asking Seagate to pick up the tab for your negligence.

Sorry if I am sounding cranky, but I have been doing entirely too much work this weekend. If I have to read "not inconsistent with this opinion..." one more time I swear I am going to lose it.


----------



## N2Gaming

Yeah I trust your theory/judgment and all coming from a legally moral stand point and appreciate the fact that you are so sincere w/your comments.

Thank you,









N2G

Edit: Here is a picture of the information printed on the HDD listing what voids the warranty on this drive. I'm not in any way trying to irritate you by posting this and that is the furthest from my intentions. Now with that is mind here is a picture of the warranty label.

So far it does not look like I have voided the warranty by removing the circuit board per the Warranty Caution.


----------



## Blitz6804

Hm... interesting. The Register seems to indicate that Seagate provides free data recovery for those effected by the firmware issue. To wit, "There is no data loss associated with this issue, and the data still resides on the drive. But if you are unable to access your data due to this issue, Seagate will provide free data recovery services. Seagate will work with you to expedite a remedy to minimize any disruption to you or your business."


----------



## Hueristic

N2 that board looks horrible? what is all that junk all over it?

Before you try the new board make sure none of those particles are left on the drive case or get on the new board.

G/L


----------



## N2Gaming

It looks like they will do your data recovery for free provided end users have a true Firmware issue w/no data on the drive being lost. So how does one know for sure if they in fact do have a firmware issue?

I was thinking about comparing warranty claims from Seagate's firmware and the need to update firmware on one of the known defective HDD's to GM. GM claims to have a 100k mile maintenance free system w/the engine and cooling system. Now if one has a problem w/the coolant turning into a glob of sludge before the 100k maintenance requirement then they say that the warranty if void due to lack of regualr service intervals if you have any problems and did not maintain your coolant system. I know, this is like comparing apples to oranges. However Why should you have to update the firmware on a drive w/a warranty of so many years w/out the drive being sold w/a label from the retailer stating that the firmware needs to be updated







I understand if the HDD was sold before this became a well known issue but what about the drives sold after they already knew of this issue. In any case, back to comparrisons, GM should honor their maintenace free systems warranty when you blow up a motor due to cooling system issues when the vehicle is under warranty w/out any maintenace being done to the maintenace free system.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
N2 that board looks horrible? what is all that junk all over it?

Before you try the new board make sure none of those particles are left on the drive case or get on the new board.

G/L

That is just dust particles form the cooling fans, I have already dusted it off w/a toothbrush and some air.


----------



## BlackOmega

Well it turns out that it wasn't my GPU OC after all. I kept getting the unstable machine thing popping up and it would shut my WU's down. So I dropped my mem OC back down from DDR450 to DDR 400 and so far so good. No unstable machine errors popping up.

Is it just me or do the 4870's run so dang hot that they raise the overall temp of the case? With the 4870 in my case my idle cpu temps were creeping up slowly to ~37*C now that I've removed it and put a GSO in its place for folding purposes, even with the GSO folding @ 100%, my cpu idles @ 32*C.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah BlackOmega, HD 48xx series cards run quite warm. The HD 4870x2 with fan at 100% (= leaf blower) is warmer than my HD 3850s were with fans running silently.


----------



## simfreak47

Wow, payback to me I guess.

Shouldn't of bragged to Joe about my nice chilly room ambient temps. It's uncomfortably warm here


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *simfreak47*


Wow, payback to me I guess.

Shouldn't of bragged to Joe about my nice chilly room ambient temps. It's uncomfortably warm here


































I LITERALLY LOLed at this.









In contrast, it was quite comfortable here in SoCal. It was super-nice @ thlnk3r's neck of the woods.


----------



## BlackOmega

Hey nice new avatar Joe







While its nice everywhere in my house except for where my rigs are, I swear its like 85+*F in here.


----------



## Hueristic

Went over 90f in here. I was dieing and the 12v rail did die. only thing on it was the hsf! :swearing:


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Went over 90f in here. I was dieing and the 12v rail did die. only thing on it was the hsf! :swearing:


We can all hate on Blitz, since he's always bragging about his 18 deg C ambients.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


We can all hate on Blitz, since he's always bragging about his 18 deg C ambients.










I say we all get together and kick his butt in say...Hmmm september?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


I say we all get together and kick his butt in say...Hmmm september?


But I wanna do it now....


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


We can all hate on Blitz, since he's always bragging about his 18 deg C ambients.










Currently fluctuating between 19*C & 20*C in my Bedroom (more like computer room with a cot & dresser)









All hail the power of THE BASEMENT!

Soon it won't be though. My Rack of Dell Poweredge 2800 & 2850's should be online. And that will probably warm me up to 25*C for ambient. In the basement.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Heh, it'd be a cold day in Hades before I ever see ambient temperatures like that, TT.

SoCal sans AC makes it impossible.

25 C ambient, though, is more typical for me.


----------



## Blitz6804

Nah, since we hit 80Âº F yesterday, I have had the A/C on. Ambients are now 21.1 Â± 0.5Âº C instead of the usual 17.7 Â± 0.5Âº C of the heating season. Full cooling season (over 90Âº F outside) my ambient is as high as 22.2 Â± 0.5Âº C. Monday is supposed to be 85Âº F, Tuesday is to be 68Âº F and raining, and Wednesday should be back to a more-reasonable 58Âº F. The A/C only kicked on once today, so it has not really been too bad yet.


----------



## Hueristic

I laid in my chair all day sweating my *edited off! I was too lazy to get the AC out from under the addition. It's tough being a bum!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
I laid in my chair all day sweating my *edited off! I was too lazy to get the AC out from under the addition. It's tough being a bum!

































Crappy thing is about my new house is that where my computer "room" is, there is no vents so a lot of good the central air does. I'm actually considering getting an exhaust fan for the room.

My new experiment, if all the hot air gets sucked out of my comp room then it should be replaced by the cool air from the surrounding areas and lower my ambient temps by ~5*C.


----------



## Blitz6804

I LOVE central air... I do not think I cold ever go back to the window-mounted units.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
So how does one know for sure if they in fact do have a firmware issue?

N2Gaming, look at the front label on the drive and where it says "Firmware". Drives with firmware version "SD15" were the problematic ones. In regards to switching out the drive pcb's, if the drives are identical in model then it should work. This is actually a very common procedure that is taken to recover data from a failed drive if the user is in possession of the same drive (identical model ect).

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, look at the front label on the drive and where it says "Firmware". Drives with firmware version "SD15" were the problematic ones. In regards to switching out the drive pcb's, if the drives are identical in model then it should work. This is actually a very common procedure that is taken to recover data from a failed drive if the user is in possession of the same drive (identical model ect).

Good luck









Thanks thlnker, infact it does have the firmware version SD15.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I LOVE central air... I do not think I could ever go back to the window-mounted units.

Agreed, although my dad did have an old A/C unit from the 70's. This thing was a monster and it could EASILY cool 1100 sq.ft. It was heavy as hell though weighed in the vicinity of 90lbs. I wish I could have that thing for my computer room.








I wonder how big of an AC unit I would need to cool a 12ft. x 20ft. room somewhat efficiently.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey guys this is off topic but of valid concern for all. Be careful around people showing flu like symptoms. There is a Swine flue epedimic out break from Mexico that is spreading and of major concern to the World government and the world bank has already offered to help finance Mexico to stave off the battle against this deadly flu. It's all in the link I gave.

Good luck and good night,

N2G


----------



## BlackOmega

Thanks for the heads up N2







dont want my little ones getting sick.


----------



## Hueristic

AFA them FLU, It is a H1 strain. Not really a serious concern. If it was a H5 we would be in serious Doodo!


----------



## N2Gaming

LOL look at what this guy is trying to sell for $10.00 I tell you it looks like he is desperate for cash and trying to sell off his trash.









http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...E:B:SS:US:1123


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


LOL look at what this guy is trying to sell for $10.00 I tell you it looks like he is desperate for cash and trying to sell off his trash.









http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...E:B:SS:US:1123













































:lach en:


----------



## N2Gaming

I'm glad you got a kick out of it Hueristic.


----------



## StormX2

lol at that .. Beat up and Dusty as hell Tool Set with No tools -.-


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

I Had a Opteron 185 Denmark 2.6 Dual for 2 yrs, so I can't join the club then ?


----------



## Blitz6804

If you use the PC regularly and wish to be an active member, we need a CPU-Z validation of some flavor. If you do not use the PC anymore and wish to be a nostalgic member, a CPU-Z validation is preferred but not required.


----------



## BlackOmega

Hey fellas I've been thinking of renaming my sig rig. But I'm drawing a blank. 
But heres what parts it'll have:
Opty 180, Big Typhoon, DFI LP NF4Ultra D/G, 4GB Corsair XMS, 4870, XFi, 2x 250GB RAID0, PCP&C 610w, Asus Vento 3600 case, Asus DVD combo drive.
Heres a pic of the case: 









I will of course appreciate any input you guys give









Well Im off to study for BIO and CHEM. BBL.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hey fellas I've been thinking of renaming my sig rig. But I'm drawing a blank.


BlackOmega, first thing that comes to mind..."Zentradi". Maybe this might make more sense: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zentradi.

Good luck


----------



## thlnk3r

In regards to Raid setups, I remember some of us talking about it and sharing some results. Attached is HDTach results from a four drive array in Raid 5. Drives are Fujitsu 300GB 15k SAS on a perc6 controller.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, first thing that comes to mind..."Zentradi". Maybe this might make more sense: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zentradi.

Good luck










Imaginary rep for you sir








Hey good suggestion







I loved the Robotech series when I was a kid. I even bought a few models and put them together.

Keep em coming guys.

EDIT: 
Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


In regards to Raid setups, I remember some of us talking about it and sharing some results. Attached is HDTach results from a four drive array in Raid 5. Drives are Fujitsu 300GB 15k SAS on a perc6 controller.


 Very nice results. I guess thats what 15K on a good controller gets you.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

BlackOmega, that Asus Vento reminds me so much of the Trade Federation Multi-Troop Transport vehicles from Star Wars Episode I: The Phantom Menace.










See the resemblance?


----------



## Blitz6804

Having never seen Macross, that is what I thought too Joe.


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
If you use the PC regularly and wish to be an active member, we need a CPU-Z validation of some flavor. If you do not use the PC anymore and wish to be a nostalgic member, a CPU-Z validation is preferred but not required.


well I sold the DFI mobo/CPU/2 GB OCZ ram for 250$ last yr. Never got into OCng with it of CPUZ







I have pics of the old PC tho if thats enough proof


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Having never seen Macross, that is what I thought too Joe.

You poor deprived child.

Robotech/Macross is one of those seminal experiences. I highly recommend you see it (if only the sublime first series).

@ AMABFKCUO: I'll just add you onto our "Nostalgic" roster.







I'll do so later in the day, as I'm at work and am a little busy at the moment.









Welcome, AMABFKCUO!


----------



## Blitz6804

AMABFKCUO: A picture of the PC is not necessary, but I am sure no-one would object to seeing the finest wares AMD ever turned out.

Joe: After Thlnk3r posted the link, I started investigating the feasibility of obtaining the series. I have a lot of the more-modern animes in the genre, so it would not be unreasonable to infer I would like this one.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


BlackOmega, that Asus Vento reminds me so much of the Trade Federation Multi-Troop Transport vehicles from Star Wars Episode I: The Phantom Menace.


Joe, you're on spot with that one


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


BlackOmega, that Asus Vento reminds me so much of the Trade Federation Multi-Troop Transport vehicles from Star Wars Episode I: The Phantom Menace.










See the resemblance?










 Gah, I hope its not that ugly







there is a _slight_ resemblance thought, but its very slight.

I think it looks more like a cross between an alien and a predator:









Blitz: I think you will enjoy the Robotech/Macross series, I know I did. I _still_ think it's one of the best anime series ever produced. I was so sad when they canceled it


----------



## Hueristic

I think it looks like the shuttle in StarTrek TNG.


----------



## nategr8ns

hey guys, just dropping by to let you know I'm back from Italy







.
It was a blast, but I wish I could have driven while I was there (not really possible since I Was there with a big group).

Maine today was actually about the same temperature as Rome was on Saturday







.
85*F... wth...

(29*C)


----------



## thlnk3r

Nate, welcome back. Glad your trip was fun


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
I think it looks like the shuttle in StarTrek TNG.

Pics?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
hey guys, just dropping by to let you know I'm back from Italy







.
It was a blast, but I wish I could have driven while I was there (not really possible since I Was there with a big group).

Maine today was actually about the same temperature as Rome was on Saturday







.
85*F... wth...

(29*C)

Welcome back Nate! Glad you had fun. "Meet" any "nice" Italian chicks? And yeah it's been hot as hell while you've been away.

And since you're back help name my rig! Go back a page or 2 and see the case its going in.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Pics?

BlackOmega, he might be referring to the "shuttle craft". TNG...good memories









Good luck


----------



## nategr8ns

heh naw, the girls from my school that came were better looking







.
I saw BO, that's why I haven't posted in the last day even though I've been back, trying to catch up on all the 939 hubbub!
I have mixed feelings about the Ventro or whatever. It's kind of over-the-top.

For that exact reason, I dub it Zaytik, Yiddish for "extraneous" (more or less).


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, he might be referring to the "shuttle craft". TNG...good memories









Good luck

It does kind of look like that









Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
heh naw, the girls from my school that came were better looking







.
I saw BO, that's why I haven't posted in the last day even though I've been back, trying to catch up on all the 939 hubbub!
I have mixed feelings about the Ventro or whatever. It's kind of over-the-top.

For that exact reason, I dub it Zaytik, Yiddish for "extraneous" (more or less).

Its definitely a unique case. I think it looks better than the alienwares did







Kind of the look I was going for at the time of purchase. But now I prefer function over form. But none the less, it does have pretty good airflow, just really pisspoor cable management.

And hey its the same color as your car


----------



## nategr8ns

*dream* car
<-wants a subaru









edit: what kind of motherboard does it take to run ECC ram?
http://cgi.ebay.com/Lot-4GB-2-x-2GB-...QcmdZViewItem#


----------



## Blitz6804

Skt 940 and Skt 939 Opterons can take EEC DDR. Note however, that the latencies on the same are usually utterly loose.


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz, don't forget also the board has to support ECC memory.

Nate, currently what spare boards do you have? Will this be for a S939 build or AM2/AM2+?

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

That is true, the board must also support it. As far as I know, no AM2/AM2+ CPU has an ECC controller. When I meant Skt 940, I mean the original Skt 940, id est, not Skt AM2. All Skt 940 boards support ECC. Skt 939 boards may or may not.


----------



## BlackOmega

Does it _have_ to support it or will the ECC feature just be disabled. I know on my old Dell P4 (423 pin) machine I installed 2 ECC DIMMs, and it worked, but that was RDRAM.

I honestly don't know of any enthusiast boards that supported ECC RAM.







maybe the some of the Tyan boards (tiger?), since they're more of a server company.

I'll have to check to see if my CFX does or not, I could swear that it did but I'm not too sure.

EDIT:Nope doesn't support ECC.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Supposedly, the A8N32-SLI Deluxe ought to be able to run ECC RAM. There is an option in the BIOS which enables this function.

(I've never tried it, though, since I've never had my hands on ECC RAM.)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


As far as I know, no AM2/AM2+ CPU has an ECC controller.


Blitz, AM2 and AM2+ both support ECC memory. It's all built into the memory controller. This also goes way back to Socket 754. Here's the product data sheet from AMD. First page under "Integrated Memory Controller"









Good luck


----------



## nategr8ns

Well I'm pretty sure neither my MSI or my DFI will take ECC...
I more figured that one of you guys would like the deal and/or to play with the ram. 2x2gb is rare AFAIK.


----------



## Blitz6804

Thlnk3r: Skt 754 and Skt 939 both say "ECC checking with double-bit detect and single-bit
correct." On the other hand, Skt AM2 just says "Supports up to four unbuffered DIMMs." While ECC can be unbuffered or registered, I am not sure if this supports ECC. What IS interesting is that sheet says the AM2 memory controller only permits up to 333 MHz (DDR2-667) despite the fact most AM2 CPUs run DDR2-800 as far as I recall.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Thlnk3r: Skt 754 and Skt 939 both say "ECC checking with double-bit detect and single-bit
correct." On the other hand, Skt AM2 just says "Supports up to four unbuffered DIMMs." While ECC can be unbuffered or registered, I am not sure if this supports ECC. What IS interesting is that sheet says the AM2 memory controller only permits up to 333 MHz (DDR2-667) despite the fact most AM2 CPUs run DDR2-800 as far as I recall.

Blitz, AM2 product data sheet says the same thing. All of the IMC's support ECC memory









Quote:

ECC checking with double-bit detect and single-bit
correct
Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

I think I remember my M2N32 SLI Deluxe mobo supporting ECC from reading the user manual but don't quote me on that. It is a AM2 that supports AM2+ CPU's.


----------



## loony

i haven't been here in a while but i just wanted to say I am still waiting patiently for the new Mobo and CPU. I hope the board still works though :s because one of my dads clients is getting rid of his 939 rig but i'm taking it "as is". Mind you I'm getting it all for free


----------



## Blitz6804

So... I was poking on DangerDen's website to see how much water cooling would cost. Block, pump, dual-bay reservoir, 7ft of tubes, 240mm radiator (sans fans) = $300. What the sod!? It seems if you do not want to pay more than $200, you need those all-in-ones that are about as effective as air cooling, and you need to spend more than $250 to get any decent results. Anyone know a cheaper place to buy?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


So... I was poking on DangerDen's website to see how much water cooling would cost. Block, pump, dual-bay reservoir, 7ft of tubes, 240mm radiator (sans fans) = $300. What the sod!? It seems if you do not want to pay more than $200, you need those all-in-ones that are about as effective as air cooling, and you need to spend more than $250 to get any decent results. Anyone know a cheaper place to buy?


You can compare prices and use these places. 
Performance-PCs.com, ... sleeve it and they will come 
HeatsinkFactory.com
Water Cooling 
Petra's Tech Shop
FrozenCPU.comFrozen CPU
Sidewinder Computers 
Danger Den 
Jab-tech 
MN PC Tech 

Its gettin late, and I was about to hit the hay, but I'll drop you some links on a good WC setup tomorrow.

I've built two for 250+ shipping. 
WCing is all about deal hunting.

EDIT: Newegg has some Swiftech stuff as well, so check them for any deals.


----------



## Blitz6804

I'd like to get it cheaper than that if I can. I am cooling solely the CPU, not the NB, SB, or GPU. A GPU block for an HD 4870x2 is an insane amount of money, and even then, I do not know if I want to void the warranty by removing the stock one. Maybe if I go quadfire it will be a necessity, but I doubt it.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I'd like to get it cheaper than that if I can. I am cooling solely the CPU, not the NB, SB, or GPU. A GPU block for an HD 4870x2 is an insane amount of money, and even then, I do not know if I want to void the warranty by removing the stock one. Maybe if I go quadfire it will be a necessity, but I doubt it.


Last post for the night. I swear.

But...

Sapphire will accept RMA'd cards that have had the Stock HSF removed, as long as you put it back in place with thermal paste.

So you would still be fine on warranty.


----------



## Blitz6804

Good to know Tator. Hopefully, when I get this one back from RMA, it will be working properly.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Sapphire will accept RMA'd cards that have had the Stock HSF removed, as long as you put it back in place with thermal paste.










Where did you get this information? Is this something that Sapphire has actually stated themselves, or is it just fooling fooling them into thinking that the cooler was never removed?


----------



## Quantum Reality

Have just bought back my old A64 X2 4200+ from my brother. I'm currently running memory tests and the like on it, but I will be back soon-ish with some CPU-Zs to officialize my dual core membership in the S939 club.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 







Where did you get this information? Is this something that Sapphire has actually stated themselves, or is it just fooling fooling them into thinking that the cooler was never removed?

Personal experience.

I've RMA'd a HD2900XT to Sapphire.

And if you have ever used the card, you'll know that it needs a new cooler. SO I was on that quiet timely. Used some custom memsinks & HR-03 GT/R600


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Blitz, the best strategy when purchasing parts for a water cooling system is to simply await sales for the parts you want. Patience will shave off a lot of money for what you want to get.

As I recall, I spent far less than $150.00 for the three most essential parts of my kit (the CPU block, water pump, and 3 x 120mm radiator -- _mit_ fans, even). I had ambitions of adding a GPU block to the mix, but this would have significantly increased my costs, so since it's actually pointless to OC a GPU anyway in my case, I have eschewed the idea of water cooling my GPU and cut the huge cost.

The last parts of my kit, the fittings and tubing, I had to wait to get. Unfortunately, these didn't go on sale even after a lot of patience, so I had to stretch my alloted budget to complete my kit.

An alternative strategy is to look for used parts for most of your kit. Water blocks, radiators, and fittings don't have any moving parts, so unless the owner was especially abusive these should be perfectly fine to buy used. If I had not run into a couple of sales when I did, I would have pursued this strategy myself when I bought my parts (since this is my first water cooling attempt, buying used is a perfectly good tactic if you can't find your parts at the price you want).

I'm hoping to start assembly in a month or two. thlnk3r has the case the whole lot is going into, making some modifications.







I'll definitely devote a thread to this build when I'm ready to make things happen.


----------



## Blitz6804

You already have a thread devoted to the build... you just have not updated it recently.

I was looking at a Bigwater 780e, but reviews of it seem to be spotty, claiming it cools only marginally better than a CNPS9500. This means it would cool about the same as my air cooler.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Bleh, don't be a smarty pants. That's not a "build thread" per se, more like asking for advice.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
You already have a thread devoted to the build... you just have not updated it recently.

I was looking at a Bigwater 780e, but reviews of it seem to be spotty, claiming it cools only marginally better than a CNPS9500. This means it would cool about the same as my air cooler.

Blitz, lap your Noctua cooler and your 940 and *save* $150-$200. Your room ambient temperatures are so low I really don't see why you would need to put your processor under water.

Don't worry about warranties. This is overclock.net









Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I do not think lapping it will help any. Tests show that it is already flat.

I AM however getting a new case for my birthday, better airflow may equal lower temps. (Which Pez thinks is the case.) This one has cable management holes already, so that should help.

I still have to see if my duct tape mod helped any, and I should be getting my GPU back within a week and a half to test it. The only issue is that I might need to waste some money cooling the ambient down to my winter ambient so we have common ground to compare.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Blitz, what exactly have tried to improve the temperature readings you're getting with your NH-C12P?

Also, could you provide us a photo or two of your present installation?

Thanks.


----------



## Blitz6804

Not at present, no. I will get some later if required. I will post 'em in my thread rather than cluttering this one further.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I do not think lapping it will help any. Tests show that it is already flat.


Blitz, are you referring to the cooler or the integrated heat spreader? The IHS is never 100% flat until you take some sandpaper to it









I'd still lap the cooler regardless. That is my opinion. I like to go full out when it comes to lapping. Both surfaces lapped will provide the best contact.

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, are you referring to the cooler or the integrated heat spreader? The IHS is never 100% flat until you take some sandpaper to it









I'd still lap the cooler regardless. That is my opinion. I like to go full out when it comes to lapping. *Both surfaces lapped will provide the best contact.
*
Good luck


I strongly agree with this.


----------



## Hueristic

X3


----------



## Blitz6804

The NH-C12P appears flat. I did not test the x4 940, but looking at the spread pattern, there is a good guess that it too is flat. Not as flat as if I lapped both, but I think the gains would be negligible.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hueristic*


x3


x4 940 be


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Appearances CAN be deceiving...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Appearances CAN be deceiving...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
The NH-C12P appears flat. I did not test the x4 940, but looking at the spread pattern, there is a good guess that it too is flat. Not as flat as if I lapped both, but I think the gains would be negligible.

Blitz, how do you have your Noctua mounted? I still recommend lapping the IHS. Every heat spreader that I've had has never been completely flat. Heck you can easily see the difference when you take it to some sand paper.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

N2Gaming: Hueristic was saying he agreed with flatness (x3), not that the processor was an x3.

Thlnk3r: It is mounted with the pipes horizontally, bolt-down, with shims to make it tighter. I contacted Noctua, there is, at present, no way to make an AMD mount 90Âº rotated from where it is now whereas with Intel it is.


----------



## BlackOmega

I have to agree with the lapping of both surfaces. The 3800x2 that I got from sim was lapped and load temps @ 1.536v are very nice, not as nice as a naked CPU but ~60*C @ the core is a vast improvement over my 180 which at a considerably lower voltage gets much hotter.

On a side note, I have added almost 100K to OCN's folding team this month








Here's a link if you guys want to check out my stats.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


On a side note, I have added almost 100K to OCN's folding team this month








Here's a link if you guys want to check out my stats.


BlackOmega, congrats


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


N2Gaming: Hueristic was saying he agreed with flatness (x3), not that the processor was an x3.

Thlnk3r: It is mounted with the pipes horizontally, bolt-down, with shims to make it tighter. I contacted Noctua, there is, at present, no way to make an AMD mount 90Âº rotated from where it is now whereas with Intel it is.


blitz I was agreeing w/them all to the forth power and being a little smarty pants by adding the processor to the equation.







OK before you get all technical on me and tell me how wrong I am about the forth power, knowing how you are a math wizz and all. I was just agreeing with them all for the forth time. Awe what the heck forget I even said it.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, fourth time. Fourth power would be squared, squared.


----------



## Hueristic

@!#$#@%#$^# I didn't mean to post all those quotes yet







will do so later when I am not so hung over!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


blitz I was agreeing w/them all to the forth power and being a little smarty pants by adding the processor to the equation.







OK before you get all technical on me and tell me how wrong I am *about the forth power*, knowing how you are a math wizz and all. I was just agreeing with them all for the forth time. Awe what the heck forget I even said it.











Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Yeah, fourth time. * Fourth power would be squared, squared*.






































:app laud:


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, congrats










 Thanks


----------



## txtmstrjoe

S939 Club OCN Folders who responded to my summons, please check your PM boxes.









Thank you.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
S939 Club OCN Folders who responded to my summons, please check your PM boxes.









Thank you.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
S939 Club OCN Folders who responded to my summons, please check your PM boxes.









Thank you.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
S939 Club OCN Folders who responded to my summons, please check your PM boxes.









Thank you.

On a completely unrelated note, Joe, you can expect a PM from me this weekend







.

Sorry I've been away lately guys....got myself a new girlfriend







. She's a keeper too I think. Been hanging out with her all week, and getting to know her. I think I'll be alone this weekend, so I shall be online and messing around in our little club quite a bit







.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
On a completely unrelated note, Joe, you can expect a PM from me this weekend







.

Sorry I've been away lately guys....got myself a new girlfriend







. She's a keeper too I think. Been hanging out with her all week, and getting to know her. I think I'll be alone this weekend, so I shall be online and messing around in our little club quite a bit







.

Right on Pio







I know the last time I met a girl I really liked I didn't go home for 5 days, come to think of it I don't think I could find my clothes for those 5 days either









Tell her we say







(I just wanted to use that emoticon)


----------



## Blitz6804

It is not fair... working PC... working relationship...

*Jealousy. Mope.*


----------



## BlackOmega

Dont mope! Go out and go meet some chicks


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Dont mope! Go out and go meet some chicks










I don't think it would happen.

I can say with some authority that our boy Blitzer is allergic of sunlight and the outdoors...


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I don't think it would happen.

I can say with some authority that our boy Blitzer is allergic of sunlight and the outdoors...










 Well then the law of probability is working against him. You must "advertise" yourself, so go to the gym, lift for mass (if you're thin) and you'll be surprised at how many chicks will come flocking. My brother did the same thing until I started dragging him out places.


----------



## phantommaggot

well, now im up and running with another 939 system, thanks to another member i now own an asus a8n32 sli deluxe with an opty165 running at 2500

im having sound issues tho, seems like no matter what i put in the green plug i get NO sound whatsoever...

the asus sound program says its a bad connection from the cable to the speakers but no matter what else i use thsese speakers on they work PERFECTly

ill be posting a few things up soon, trying to get some input on how to get my ram speeds up and such.. for now im still setting everything back up... if i cant work the sound issue out ill be a bit upset.. but nothing a sound card cant fix i guess...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

phantommagot, have you checked your BIOS to see if onboard audio is enabled?

Also, have you installed the sound drivers? (This happened to me before, actually, before I realized I had NOT installed the drivers during setup.







)

Keep us posted, and good luck.


----------



## nategr8ns

yeah, lucky you pio









<-gets too shy to talk around girl he likes, although can't complain too much because computer works


----------



## phantommaggot

ya, i checked bios first thing.. 
i installed the ac97 drivers directly from the asus website. thats also when the asus mixer thing installed. 
the connector sensing part says its a bad connection.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *phantommaggot*


well, now im up and running with another 939 system, thanks to another member i now own an asus a8n32 sli deluxe with an opty165 running at 2500

im having sound issues tho, seems like no matter what i put in the green plug i get NO sound whatsoever...

the asus sound program says its a bad connection from the cable to the speakers but no matter what else i use these speakers on they work PERFECTly

ill be posting a few things up soon, trying to get some input on how to get my ram speeds up and such.. for now im still setting everything back up... if i cant work the sound issue out ill be a bit upset.. but nothing a sound card cant fix i guess...


 Do those speakers use 2 jacks ie. a black and green one? Or is it a single lead? If its single plug it in to the black one.


----------



## phantommaggot

its a single
2.1 creative system
the plug is green

ill give the black hole a try


----------



## phantommaggot

tried the black plug
got the same error

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...x/gayerror.jpg

no sound..

its really lame.. i mean the ports have to be working to even sense the cable
so why no sound.. all the volume is up, and i am on in the bios..
ive been all throu the manul (tho i may have looked over it) and i dont see anything about a hardware switch anywhere that cuts off the sound...


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *phantommaggot* 
tried the black plug
got the same error

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...x/gayerror.jpg

no sound..

its really lame.. i mean the ports have to be working to even sense the cable
so why no sound.. all the volume is up, and i am on in the bios..
ive been all throu the manul (tho i may have looked over it) and i dont see anything about a hardware switch anywhere that cuts off the sound...

Do you have any old regular headphones you can try in those ports?


----------



## N2Gaming

Sorry but I have to ask. When was the last time the speakers were working. Are you 100% sure the connection to the back of the speakers is correct and that the speakers do function properly?


----------



## BlackOmega

Wait just remembered, check the front panel audio connector. I believe that there is supposed to be a jumper on a couple of the pins. I can't for the life of me remember which 2, maybe Joe or Pioneer is loud can tell you which 2.

EDIT:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Sorry but I have to ask. When was the last time the speakers were working. Are you 100% sure the connection to the back of the speakers is correct and that the speakers do function properly?

N2, its my old board. I know for a fact that the onboard audio worked just fine. But I did also have the front panel audio hooked up.

Phantommaggot: If your case has a FP audio connector hook it up and see if that takes care of the issue. I believe the connector is right underneath the top video card slot, towards the back of the board/case.


----------



## phantommaggot

ya, ive tried headphones
and the speakers worked about 14.5 minutes ago on my girls laptop


----------



## phantommaggot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Wait just remembered, check the front panel audio connector. I believe that there is supposed to be a jumper on a couple of the pins. I can't for the life of me remember which 2, maybe Joe or Pioneer is loud can tell you which 2.

can do..
btw, im not running any front audio..


----------



## Blitz6804

There are two jumpers you must have shorting the front panel audio connectors. Without these jumpers, the audio jacks will not work.

EDIT: Pins 5/6 and 9/10. Pin 8 is the empty slot.


----------



## phantommaggot

that would probably be it..
i dont have ANY jumpers on there.. now i have to find some...









does that mean that front panel audio was hooked up before?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
There are two jumpers you must have shorting the front panel audio connectors. Without these jumpers, the audio jacks will not work.

EDIT: Pins 5/6 and 9/10. Pin 8 is the empty slot.

Thanks you sir


----------



## Blitz6804

phantommaggot: Most usually. A lot of people hook up the front panel audio connectors, and forget to return the jumpers when they sell the board.


----------



## phantommaggot

thanks everyone..
i found it in the book.. it just didnt say anything about jumpers..

let me power down, hook up some jumpers i dug up, and see what happens..


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Well then the law of probability is working against him. You must "advertise" yourself, so go to the gym, lift for mass (if you're thin) and you'll be surprised at how many chicks will come flocking..

BlackOmega, I go three days a week and I can certainly vouch for this...I don't know about "flockage" though. The contract I wear on my left ring finger denotes that.

Blitz, if you've never been then prepare for pain. It'll be a year in July since I started weight training and it's been interesting. On a side note, +1 for the response on the jumper settings for Phantom


----------



## vigilant_death

Just wanted to say my old build was incredible... for how long it lasted








AMD Athlon 64 3700+ 2.2ghz socket 939
Asus A8R-MX/S mobo ('upgraded' when cheap psu blew the old chaintech which i liked way more)
- I CHALLENGE YOU TO FIND SUPPORT FOR THAT BOARD ITS IMPOSSIBLE
ATI x800GT

And that build could play oblivion very well... even tough stressing games like age of conan...
Maybe not max settings but if you spent the time to tweak... they still looked great with good FPS.

Jesus... when i bought those parts... the cpu was $240 and so was the video card... EACH
My my my how far we've come in 5 years


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, I go three days a week and I can certainly vouch for this...I don't know about "flockage" though. The contract I wear on my left ring finger denotes that.

Blitz, if you've never been then prepare for pain. It'll be a year in July since I started weight training and it's been interesting. On a side note, +1 for the response on the jumper settings for Phantom










 In regards to weight training, its how you lift. About 10 years ago (when I was 23), I started lifting 6 days a week, strictly for mass. Low reps high weight. Mind you in a matter of 3 months I went from curling 100LBs, to maxing out the machine which was 165. 
Increased my dumbbell incline bench from using 50lbs dumbbells, to using 95lb. dumbbells, etc.
I noticed the larger I got, the more women would "notice" me. A lot of women say they don't like muscular guys, I beg to differ. Women are genetically encoded, if you will, to be more attracted to larger guys. Because a larger guy is more dominant. Basically, it comes down to animal instinct that lies somewhere in the subconscious. 
And even now, I took a "class" that was exercising and started lifting again


----------



## phantommaggot

lols, to that...

and the jumpers were the trick..

what a lame problem..

now i get to hook my other 3 HDDs up and work on getting my OverClock up and stable..

right now im at 2500 mhz
ht is at 1390
but my ram is down.. 178







i need to play with bios and see whats up..


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *phantommaggot*


now i get to hook my other 3 HDDs up and work on getting my OverClock up and stable..

right now im at 2500 mhz
ht is at 1390
but my ram is down.. 178







i need to play with bios and see whats up..


Phantommaggot, that HT speed is a little high. Try bringing down the multiplier so that the speed is below at least 1100Mhz. What other adjustments have you made with your overclock? If you can include CPU-Z screen shots of your OC that would be helpful.

Good luck

BlackOmega, in regards to pain I'm referencing lactic acid. Second day is always my worse. Squats literally destroyed me for a few months. Mind you I am 28 and have never done any of this crap. Way OT now. PM if you want to continue this conversation


----------



## phantommaggot

so far.. ive just cranked the fsb

is the processor multiplierthe one i need to adjust?
on my last 939 setup the HTT had its own multiplier


----------



## BlackOmega

Phantom, you're going to have to play around with the multiplier and the fsb to get the ram closer to 200 (or higher). As I recall I was able to hit 336 reference clock on that board with no voltage increase using that very opty. So you have some wiggle room as to your multiplier and RAM settings.
Glad we got your sound issue figured out. Sorry about the jumpers, I plum forgot about them.









EDIT: Youre going to have to go into the chipset setting (I forget the name that ASUS uses), and you're going to want to adjust the K8 to NB multiplier, that'll take you HT link down some, as having it that high can cause some instability. I'm actually surprised that you've gotten it that high with no issues. GJ.


----------



## phantommaggot

lol, its no big deal about the jumpers..

on the other hand..










lol.. 
id like to see how stable this setup will be.. hell ill leave it as is..

really tho... are you talking about 336 chip speed before multiplied, or 336 ram speed


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *phantommaggot* 
really tho... are you talking about 336 chip speed before multiplied, or 336 ram speed

Phantommaggot, I believe BlackOmega is talking about the HTT (reference clock speed). Sounds like to me that speed is achievable without a chipset voltage increase.

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *phantommaggot* 

really tho... are you talking about 336 chip speed before multiplied, or 336 ram speed

What some people would refer to as the *f*ront *s*ide *b*us.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *phantommaggot* 
lol, its no big deal about the jumpers..

on the other hand..










lol..
id like to see how stable this setup will be.. hell ill leave it as is..

really tho... are you talking about 336 chip speed before multiplied, or 336 ram speed

The HT link speed shown in CPU-Z is too high and this can actually kill your chip if you do this too often or at least corrupt your OS.
Looks like you were using a 4x HT multi with that run but setting it to 3x should eliminate any problems that could be caused by it. This is shown as HT multi in the BIOS and the default setting is 4x.
You want to keep around or under 1000MHz, your shot shows it at 1390MHz.

No, I'm not exactly innocent of doing high HT multi runs either - Here's a pair of NMC runs I've done in the past and had the NT multi too high by accident when I forgot to lower the HT multi.
You can see the 175 was at 1340MHz and the 180 was at 1400MHz. I've even had the 180 as high as 1500 before (By accident too) and when I saw it, immediately rebooted to lower the multi before any damage was done.


----------



## Blitz6804

Kryton: I am unsure if damage can be done by running it too high. Certainly OS corruption and instability may result, but I have never heard of it physically damaging a chip. On the other hand, I have found that the gains in system performance are negligible at best and non-existent at worst. Once you pass about 900-950, it becomes impossible to tell what the hypertransport's speed is from the keyboard, but benchmarks will show as much as a 0.5% improvement from 1000 to 1250 MHz.


----------



## nategr8ns

holy cow batman, that's an insane HTT!
Phantom, i would definitely drop your HTT multi. As has been said before, you should keep it between 850 and 1000.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Kryton: I am unsure if damage can be done by running it too high. Certainly OS corruption and instability may result, but I have never heard of it physically damaging a chip. On the other hand, I have found that the gains in system performance are negligible at best and non-existent at worst. Once you pass about 900-950, it becomes impossible to tell what the hypertransport's speed is from the keyboard, but benchmarks will show as much as a 0.5% improvement from 1000 to 1250 MHz.

I've heard somewhere before it could damage a chip's IMC. Whether it's true or not, no sense in running it that high and outright asking for trouble in whatever form it could happen.


----------



## JEmmaB

Hello; just want to share my newly acquired X2 4800+.


















http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=557885


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JEmmaB* 
Hello; just want to share my newly acquired X2 4800+.









Jemma, very nice









Do you want me to add that with your Opteron 185 or replace it with this new validation?


----------



## BlackOmega

Hey guys sorta off topic here but whats going on with OCN? Nothings updating, when I click on new posts it keeps showing the same old posts.


----------



## Tator Tot

Submit a bug report.

The pannel next to news on the main page seems to be updating for me.

And my UserCP shows new posts and such.

Make a new thread and check "New Posts" & "Unanswered threads" to make sure it wasn't just you for a second.

This time of night is also a little slow.

Usually between 1 & 3 its really slow on OCN, from what I have noticed atleast.


----------



## JEmmaB

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Jemma, very nice









Do you want me to add that with your Opteron 185 or replace it with this new validation?

Just kindly add it please.









It even went a little higher.


















Validation


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Hey guys sorta off topic here but whats going on with OCN? Nothings updating, when I click on new posts it keeps showing the same old posts.

I'm getting some weird stuff too. When I do a "New Posts" search, it always brings me to the same results (i.e. not actually new posts) and it constantly refreshed over and over again.


----------



## Kryton

Entry with the Opty 165:


Opteron 165 LCB9E 0704XPMW @ 3106MHz / 1.45v
DFI LP UT NF4 Expert
Patriot PC4000 CL2.5 3-3-7 1T

Nothing like before since this particular chip runs HOT and had to do it with limited voltage. Delidding would help and may try it along with WC'ing later to see what it could do with better temps.


----------



## Blitz6804

Jeeze Kryton... between you and JEmmaB, I am not sure which of you owns more chips. I take it you are both hunting for the elusive chip that can run 3.3 GHz 24/7 stable?

I have pending:

Kryton (2), BlackOmega, loony, nepas, Quantum Reality, AMABFKCUO, and JEmmaB

Once I get my GPU back (should be Friday) I can update.


----------



## Blitz6804

(For the record, Techtrancer_Wien holds the record with 10 validated chips.)


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Entry with the Opty 165:


Opteron 165 LCB9E 0704XPMW @ 3106MHz / 1.45v
DFI LP UT NF4 Expert
Patriot PC4000 CL2.5 3-3-7 1T

Nothing like before since this particular chip runs HOT and had to do it with limited voltage. Delidding would help and may try it along with WC'ing later to see what it could do with better temps.

Very nice! What are you using for cooling your NB and what is the NB Vid?


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Very nice! What are you using for cooling your NB and what is the NB Vid?

For the moment, the stock DFI fan cooler and was running 1.88v at the time. Had some good airflow going and I'd already applied a fresh coating of TIM to the chipset before this was done.
Undoubtedly I can't keep doing this before something goes wrong and will work on that. Getting more parts for my WC'ing setup today or tomorrow.

Blitz, I've had these for awhile now and not planning on getting anymore chips unless I find a killer deal on one for it.
Speaking of the sheer # of chips, you should see my Socket A collection.

I'm thinking once I get my WC'ing running, may already have a chip that could go @ 3.3GHz stable 24/7 - I'll let you guess which one it could be and will actually test it once I'm setup to try it.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
For the moment, the stock DFI fan cooler and was running 1.88v at the time. Had some good airflow going and I'd already applied a fresh coating of TIM to the chipset before this was done.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JEmmaB* 
Just kindly add it please.









It even went a little higher.









JemmaB, good job









I've added your 4800+

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I am curious Thlnk3r: Why did you replace your 2.75 GHz 3700+ with a stock-clocked Opty 146?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I am curious Thlnk3r: Why did you replace your 2.75 GHz 3700+ with a stock-clocked Opty 146?

Blitz, I just wanted to play with another chip for a while. Though if I remember right this CAB2E doesn't OC very well. Stock voltage gets me to 2.6Ghz. We'll see what the DFI can do


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Submit a bug report.

The pannel next to news on the main page seems to be updating for me.

And my UserCP shows new posts and such.

Make a new thread and check "New Posts" & "Unanswered threads" to make sure it wasn't just you for a second.

This time of night is also a little slow.

Usually between 1 & 3 its really slow on OCN, from what I have noticed atleast.

Yeah it does die down a bit.
As for my issue, i've tried all sorts of stuff and nothing changes when I hit new posts or view recent posts I get posts from days ago. It turns out I'm not the only one as there is already a post in the OCN bugs thing.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
I'm getting some weird stuff too. When I do a "New Posts" search, it always brings me to the same results (i.e. not actually new posts) and it constantly refreshed over and over again.

Make sure you post here.


----------



## Tator Tot

Just made a post. Thanks for the heads up BlackOmega.


----------



## BlackOmega

No prob Tater







, I'm wondering if this is the reason people haven't really been posting here as much.


----------



## N2Gaming

Yup it's been pretty calm all weekend. Maybe it has something to do w/the nice weather outside. If that's the case then I feel it's pretty normal. I have only been a member for less then a year so I don't know if there tends to be a surge of post's w/the changing of each season. Or if in fact the servers are having some sort of updating issues. I did notice a couple of times through out last week when the servers were down in the middle of the day for maintenance.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Grrr...times suck right now. Sorry I've been absent again. To those that know what's been going on.....well yeah things are getting tougher for me again. I'll just say this much, having roommates really sucks, and that all my living room furniture was just outside (two recliners and an entertainment center full of stuff). So yeah, I'm not exactly a happy camper, and I REALLY can't wait to get out of this situation.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Well, I've been out of my apartment for most of this weekend, celebrating my birthday.









I'm presently at my parents' house, spending time with my sister and her family who came down from Vancouver, CA. Then tomorrow it's my dad's birthday.

I did some PC building, though, this morning. I should have some pictures to share with y'alls when I get back to my apartment (when I get my camera back from nephew photography/filming duties).

Fo sure this has probably been my best birthday ever.


----------



## N2Gaming

WOW I just read both ya'lls post's and got a feeling of the movie unbreakable. I'm sorry to hear the news Pio yet on the other hand I'm happy for you tmj. Happy B-Day. blitz has one in a little bit here in the next week or so.


----------



## nategr8ns

It's been quiet because of the nice weather and my damned Biology project...


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, week from today. *Resumes moping.*


----------



## BlackOmega

Sorry to hear you're having RM issues Pio. I think you should kick their butts









Happy Birthday Joe!






























Still haven't been able to figure out my OCN woes







It really sucks, can't see any new posts, cant see any posts I recently wrote, this sucks









Well Im off to study for my BIO final, then FREEDOM!!!! For 2 weeks anyway then back to the grind. :swearing:


----------



## Hueristic

Been trying to decide Whether to add another folder or not.

In the meantime I'm takeing a break from all the house work (Fixed the leaky roof finally yesterday) and started makeing a fun Tech station.

I think you guys are gonna love it.

IT's a medevil torture rack with water boarding for cooling.









Will try to post pics l8r.


----------



## nategr8ns

Happy b-day joe!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Sorry to hear you're having RM issues Pio. I think you should kick their butts









Happy Birthday Joe!






























Still haven't been able to figure out my OCN woes







It really sucks, can't see any new posts, cant see any posts I recently wrote, this sucks









Well Im off to study for my BIO final, then FREEDOM!!!! For 2 weeks anyway then back to the grind. :swearing:

Oh god I hate bio SO much! My OCN problems seem like they're starting to get sorted out. My New Posts search button now works.

Huer, sounds sick!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Yeah, week from today. *Resumes moping.*

Blitz, what did I miss?

Pio, I hope you get everything situated IRL.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Still haven't been able to figure out my OCN woes. It really sucks, can't see any new posts, cant see any posts I recently wrote, this sucks

BlackOmega, this sounds almost like a caching issue with the browser







Perhaps maybe there is a known issue with this circulating around OCN but I haven't experienced these weird anomalies.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
I think you guys are gonna love it.

IT's a medevil torture rack with water boarding for cooling.

Hueristic, I look forward to seeing that!

Good luck guys


----------



## Blitz6804

Was answering N2Gaming; my birthday is a week from today.

As to the mope; I am just moping because I have been in bad sorts lately.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Was answering N2Gaming; my birthday is a week from today.

As to the mope; I am just moping because I have been in bad sorts lately.

For goodness' sakes, go outside! LOL

Seriously, the sunlight will do you wonders.

Thanks for the birthday wishes, guys.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
For goodness' sakes, go outside! LOL

Seriously, the sunlight will do you wonders.

Thanks for the birthday wishes, guys.









What? Today's Joe's birthday? Or was it yesterday?

Either way....

*HAPPY BIRTHDAY JOE!!!!!*

I need to put this in so the caps stay put.


----------



## Kryton

Yeeessss!

*Happy Birthday* to you Joe!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

*Bows humbly.

Thanks again.









I may only be in my mid-30s, but in my heart I will always be 939.


----------



## thlnk3r

Happy Birthday Joe! In celebration we should get together tonight for a race07 game. Blitz and Pio bring your wheels.

Back on topic, I have my oldy but goody S939 rig up and running (in sig). Plays CS:S with great frames. I'm trying to get the case to go with my SR-71 Blackbird theme so I may actually paint the inside of the case flat black. That suggestion came from Joe









Good luck guys


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I'd LOVE to go racing with y'all, but I won't be back at my apartment till tomorrow.









Speaking of computer case mods, I'm contemplating the possibility of simulating carbon fiber weave inside one of my cases. I'm trying to picture how good that might look.

What do you think?

And yes, thlnk3r, Blackbird MUST be black through and through.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I would love to go racing as well....however I'd be stuck using a keyboard







. The new girlfriend has a hard time reaching over my wheel to type...so I made some sacrifices (my wheel being one of them).


----------



## HothBase




----------



## GuardianOdin

Happy Birthday Joe!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*   Happy b-day joe!

Oh god I hate bio SO much! My OCN problems seem like they're starting to get sorted out. My New Posts search button now works.  
 I don't mind BIo so much really. Its just that this is a new teacher I had so I basically had to teach myself everything.

And i thought my OCN woes were over with, unfortunately they're not. Now instead of showing posts from 2 days ago its showing 10 hour old posts :swearing:

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*   BlackOmega, this sounds almost like a caching issue with the browser







Perhaps maybe there is a known issue with this circulating around OCN but I haven't experienced these weird anomalies.   
 I don't know thinker, I have firefox setup so it clears everything every time it closes. I've even tried using IE7 to no avail, same problem persists. So this leads me to believe that the caching issue must be server side, not client side.

On another note: I swear this guy is using a 939 for his sound processing


----------



## Kryton

I know you guys are thinking I've gotta stop doing this....









Update:
Opteron 165 LCB9E 0704XPMW @ 3255MHz / 1.50v
DFI LP UT NF4 Expert
Patriot PC4000 CL2.5 3-3-7 1T

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=560101


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
For goodness' sakes, go outside! LOL

Seriously, the sunlight will do you wonders.














































Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 

*HAPPY BIRTHDAY JOE!!!!!*












































:b and:



































:dr ink:










































: businesss




























:goate e:




























:thumbsu ps



































:thumbs ups









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
I know you guys are thinking I've gotta stop doing this....









Update:
Opteron 165 LCB9E 0704XPMW @ 3255MHz / 1.50v
DFI LP UT NF4 Expert
Patriot PC4000 CL2.5 3-3-7 1T

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=560101

SCHWEET!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! <ME Jealous!!! Gotta get my Hs upgraded!!!


----------



## N2Gaming

Omenga good luck on the test's.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Been trying to decide Whether to add another folder or not.

In the meantime I'm takeing a break from all the house work (Fixed the leaky roof finally yesterday) and started makeing a fun Tech station.

I think you guys are gonna love it.

IT's a medevil torture rack with water boarding for cooling.









Will try to post pics l8r.

Sounds down right Beaching







lol for lack of the word that I'd like to use.







I'll be eagerly awaiting your pics.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Happy Birthday Joe! In celebration we should get together tonight for a race07 game. Blitz and Pio bring your wheels.

Back on topic, I have my oldy but goody S939 rig up and running (in sig). Plays CS:S with great frames. I'm trying to get the case to go with my SR-71 Blackbird theme so I may actually paint the inside of the case flat black. That suggestion came from Joe









Good luck guys

I have plans to do that on my BNBB Project. Flat black FTW









Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Speaking of computer case mods, I'm contemplating the possibility of simulating carbon fiber weave inside one of my cases. I'm trying to picture how good that might look.

What do you think?

Joe it might look pretty cool, please just be very careful w/that stuff. I read here on one of Serillians case logs that that stuff is very hazardous to your health if you breath it while handling and cutting.

Good Luck guys,

N2G


----------



## Blitz6804

Apparently, OCN has been down this evening to install a Google Search tool rather than the search feature we have had.


----------



## N2Gaming

I just hope that OCN is working on making it better for us 939'rs


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Speaking of computer case mods, I'm contemplating the possibility of simulating carbon fiber weave inside one of my cases. I'm trying to picture how good that might look.

What do you think?

And yes, thlnk3r, Blackbird MUST be black through and through.









Joe, oh share pictures please!

Agreed...it must be black through and through









Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I would love to go racing as well....however I'd be stuck using a keyboard







. The new girlfriend has a hard time reaching over my wheel to type...so I made some sacrifices (my wheel being one of them).

Pio, no worries buddy I use a keyboard as well.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
I know you guys are thinking I've gotta stop doing this....









Update:
Opteron 165 LCB9E 0704XPMW @ 3255MHz / 1.50v
DFI LP UT NF4 Expert
Patriot PC4000 CL2.5 3-3-7 1T

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=560101

Kryton, very nice. I think I lost count on how many S939 processors you have. The Expert board sure has proved itself well.

Is the above Opteron 165 OC stable (ie. OCCT or Orthos/Prime95)?

Good luck guys


----------



## BlackOmega

So I did an experiment on myself







. For my BIO final I decided not to study at all. I wanted to see what my actual material retention was for the whole year. And since it didn't matter if I bombed it because the lowest test score is dropped.

And my actual material retention was 76%, not bad but not as good as I hoped.


----------



## Blitz6804

That is how I study BlackOmega: I will not look at any school work of any kind within 24-hours of a test. I usually have an anime marathon before bed in fact.

Unfortunately, that will not be possible this year, and I expect my grades to suffer. (I can do it with my May 20, 9am test and my May 11, 9am test, but the latter test violates the rule for the May 11, 1pm test and the May 12 9am test.


----------



## DesertRat

Hey guys I got some 939 stuff I could use some appraisals on, look here.

Thanks.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 

Kryton, very nice. I think I lost count on how many S939 processors you have. The Expert board sure has proved itself well.

Is the above Opteron 165 OC stable (ie. OCCT or Orthos/Prime95)?

Good luck guys


I'm still finding the max OC's of these chips with this board right now. Was recently running a A8N32 and used that model board until I got this board. I make no claims to stability right now but once I can get my WC'ing setup, I'll test them all.
Right now I have a Opty165, 175, 180, X2 4200 Toledo and three 4000+ San Diego CPUs, all of which I purchased new. Did have five 4000+ CPU's but those two others went out with trades and the like.

That's the thing here and until I can get the WC system running, I won't be trying to Orthos any of these.
The 165 itself is a real pain to keep under 60C on air @ 1.40v - Needs delidding BADLY and you can bet it was hot doing that run.


----------



## thlnk3r

Kryton, sorry if this was already mentioned but what type of air cooler are running with these overclocks?

Good luck


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Kryton, sorry if this was already mentioned but what type of air cooler are running with these overclocks?

Good luck


Currently running a mix of coolers to see what the board and CPU's like together. 
I've tried the stock cooler, an Arctic Cooling Freezer 64 Pro 92mm and my all copper Zalman CNPS7000B 92mm cooler.

The Freezer Pro isn't a bad cooler but I need to lap the base since it's kinda rough. The Zalman seems to work well if ambient temps are low enough and good airflow is present. The stock cooler has done an amazing job considering it's a stock-type unit but what can you say? 
It's stock.

Only trick to this testing is setting up the Zalman since you cannot use the retaining collar for a stock type cooler with it. Since trying it, I've reinstalled the Arctic Freezer for now and want to try something else soon, such as a Typhoon 120 or something along those lines if I don't get the WC'ing setup first.

I also made sure I had a literal hurricane of airflow through the case it's in for these runs with ambients in the low 60's (The wife will LOVE the powerbill over this). 
Have plans for modifying the case when the WC'ing is in place to take full advantage of what the system could possibly do. Nothing written in stone yet on that but I'll be "Experimenting" as I go with this.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


That is how I study BlackOmega: I will not look at any school work of any kind within 24-hours of a test. I usually have an anime marathon before bed in fact.

Unfortunately, that will not be possible this year, and I expect my grades to suffer. (I can do it with my May 20, 9am test and my May 11, 9am test, but the latter test violates the rule for the May 11, 1pm test and the May 12 9am test.










most of my tests I actually somewhat prepared for. In chemistry I would sit and do problems until I found all of the different possible combination's for a particular equation, basically deriving from our beloved PV=nRT.
I'm not claiming to be a chemistry wiz or anything, but I can, for the most part, derive equations pretty well.

As for BIO on the other hand, this was my profs. first time teaching BIO. She was a toxicologist by trade, so obviously a very smart lady, but the students were definitely not on her level. So I basically wound up teaching myself what I needed to know. I would download the study guide grab the book and well study. Kind of sucked really due to the amount of material I had to cover on my own. And now come to think of it, I only did about 75-80% of my study guides. So I suppose my final grade is a direct correlation of my lack of thoroughness.


----------



## phantommaggot

heres where im at, 
whats it gonna take to get it faster... 
my idle temps right now are at 35/28 (core0/core1)

if i raise the fsb much 
past 280 it dosent want to boot. i just get the overclock failed mssg.. 
im sure it has to do with memory, but it happened when i dropped the speed on it as well.. IDK.. maybe i need to drop it more.. but for now im going to bed










LMK

and thanks so far


----------



## BlackOmega

possibly more voltage? How high have you taken the voltage on that thing so far?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *phantommaggot*


heres where im at, 
whats it gonna take to get it faster...


I'm wondering if you ram is being pushed to hard. Your almost at DDR500 Are you running DDR400 or DDR500?


----------



## Kryton

Should be able to get at least 2.7GHz with the CPU voltage shown. That's also a great clock from your RAM since 2GB's normally won't clock as high as a smaller amount will partially due to the stress on the chip's IMC to manage it all at those speeds. 
From the timings and RAM speeds, I'm guessing either OCZ Plats or a set of Patriots like these:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820220040

Try a 133 instead of a 166 divider and around 2.9v with your RAM, watch temps with the NB and perhaps a small voltage bump for the NB as long as temps are OK. 
RAM timings of 2.5-3-3-9 or 2.5-3-3-11 might help too.

One thing I've ran into with my 165 is operating temps. 165's of a particular batch/date range have this issue and unfortunately mine is one of those (LCB9E 0704). I'd try no more than 1.375v at first to see if your CPU temps are fine, then take it from there.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Should be able to get at least 2.7GHz with the CPU voltage shown. That's also a great clock from your RAM since 2GB's normally won't clock as high as a smaller amount will partially due to the stress on the chip's IMC to manage it all at those speeds.
From the timings and RAM speeds, I'm guessing either OCZ Plats or a set of Patriots like these:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820220040

Try a 133 instead of a 166 divider and around 2.9v with your RAM, watch temps with the NB and perhaps a small voltage bump for the NB as long as temps are OK.
RAM timings of 2.5-3-3-9 or 2.5-3-3-11 might help too.

One thing I've ran into with my 165 is operating temps. 165's of a particular batch/date range have this issue and unfortunately mine is one of those (LCB9E 0704). I'd try no more than 1.375v at first to see if your CPU temps are fine, then take it from there.

IIRC, his opty is a CCBBE 0502.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Should be able to get at least 2.7GHz with the CPU voltage shown. That's also a great clock from your RAM since 2GB's normally won't clock as high as a smaller amount will partially due to the stress on the chip's IMC to manage it all at those speeds.
From the timings and RAM speeds, I'm guessing either OCZ Plats or a set of Patriots like these:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820220040


Kryton, great suggestions.

Phantommaggot, as others have said try dropping your memory frequency. That's assuming you aren't running DDR500. Another thing that may elevate some stress with your OC is changing the command rate from 1T to 2T. The performance difference between the two is negligible and 2T most of the time provides better stability.

I use to own a Asus A8N-SLI so I know it's a great board. I believe near 280HTT is when the board required some chipset voltage.

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Kryton, great suggestions.

Phantommaggot, as others have said try dropping your memory frequency. That's assuming you aren't running DDR500. Another thing that may elevate some stress with your OC is changing the command rate from 1T to 2T. The performance difference between the two is negligible and 2T most of the time provides better stability.

I use to own a Asus A8N-SLI so I know it's a great board. I believe near 280HTT is when the board required some chipset voltage.

Good luck









Thinker, I do believe he is using my old A8N32SLI deluxe. That board with that CPU didn't require any sort of chipset voltage increase to well over 300HTT. I got the board to 336 without any increase.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Thinker, I do believe he is using my old A8N32SLI deluxe. That board with that CPU didn't require any sort of chipset voltage increase to well over 300HTT. I got the board to 336 without any increase.

BlackOmega, I'm going off his signature rig at the moment so I assumed it was the Asus A8N-SLI board. Perhaps some more info from Phantom can shed some light on the situation









Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, I'm going off his signature rig at the moment so I assumed it was the Asus A8N-SLI board. Perhaps some more info from Phantom can shed some light on the situation









Good luck

I do believe he is using my old opty 165 + my old A8N32SLI deluxe. No idea on the RAM or anything else for that matter. No sound card as we fixed his no sound issue last week.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I do believe he is using my old opty 165 + my old A8N32SLI deluxe. No idea on the RAM or anything else for that matter. No sound card as we fixed his no sound issue last week.


BlackOmega, no worries man. How much Vcore did the Opteron 165 at that reference clock speed require? If it was very little then shoot it may actually his memory that is holding him back then.

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Well that was when I was going for board limits and the multiplier was way down, 6x I believe. And it did that at stock voltage, which on that board was 1.39v.

I believe it is the RAM thats holding him back. I think if he drops it down and ups his vcore he should be able to attain a slightly higher OC.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well that was when I was going for board limits and the multiplier was way down, 6x I believe. And it did that at stock voltage, which on that board was 1.39v.


BlackOmega, before selling the processor were you able to push it pretty hard (ie. 2.8Ghz, 3Ghz OC)?

I can't imagine Phantom already being at a roadblock with his 2.4Ghz overclock









Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, before selling the processor were you able to push it pretty hard (ie. 2.8Ghz, 3Ghz OC)?

I can't imagine Phantom already being at a roadblock with his 2.4Ghz overclock









Good luck


 Nope, I personally couldn't get it past 2.5. Even that was hit or miss. But then again I didn't volt it all that high either. I don't think that thing has seen over 1.45v. 
The biggest problem I was having with it was keeping it cool. It by far ran hotter than any of my dual cores. Considering my 3800x2 is sitting @ 1.536v, is saying a lot about the opty. 
Best bet would be delidding it, IIRC the delta between the 2 cores was ~8*C. So I dont think that lapping it would really net enough of an improvement to be worth while. 
I bet if you can keep that chip cool enough it should be able to hit a relatively high OC.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Not necessarily.

Sometimes there are just really stubborn chips. Unless you've got some super-exotic cooling solution (much better than water-cooling, like LN2 or something like that), there are chips that will resist OCing even with extreme voltage levels.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Not necessarily.

Sometimes there are just really stubborn chips. Unless you've got some super-exotic cooling solution (much better than water-cooling, like LN2 or something like that), there are chips that will resist OCing even with extreme voltage levels.


 Its not voltage so much as temperature. Once it reaches higher temps, it destabilizes. And considering how much voltage this 3800x2 takes for a mere 700MHz OC, I would say the opty has a ways to go yet voltage wise.

The amount of voltage needed for a venice to get a good OC is just crazy.


----------



## phantommaggot

thanks everyone
sorry, i havent updated my sig rig
im using 2x1gb of OCZ plat ram
the a8n32 board and Opty as black omega stated
im using a xigmatek with the stock fan. 
core temp is showing me at 33/26 right now

if that helps
ill play with it some after work and post results

thanks again
-j


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Its not voltage so much as temperature. Once it reaches higher temps, it destabilizes. And considering how much voltage this 3800x2 takes for a mere 700MHz OC, I would say the opty has a ways to go yet voltage wise.

The amount of voltage needed for a venice to get a good OC is just crazy.


How high are we talking about here? (Sorry if this has been mentioned earlier; I've been out of the loop lately.







)


----------



## N2Gaming

If you would like to try the new grilled KFC then here is a link to get a free meal on KFC. This offer is only available to print out today. Hint print the PDF to file so that you can reprint is later while the coupon is still valid. This is on topic because you need to eat in order to have the energy that you need to think clearly for overclocking your socket 939 rigs.









Sorry if this is not the right place to post just trying to feed my fellow 939'ers


----------



## phantommaggot

so.....
i cut my mem speed down to 166 and it wouldnt boot.....
so i cut it back again to 133 and it still wouldnt boot....
cut the k8 to nb down to 2x and it booted fine...








im gonna try pushing the fsb a little more..

you can see my core voltages in my cpuz
ill have to double check ram

also.. im having a kinda stupid problem..
when i reset the computer to change settings or operating systems.. it shuts down and wont restart.. i mean.. the computer is still on and running but i get nothing..
i have to hold the power button to cut it off and back on..
neways, heres my cpuz as of now

sorry, didnt mean to double post image lol


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
The amount of voltage needed for a venice to get a good OC is just crazy.

BlackOmega, are you sure the same applies to the Denmark/Toledo core? I have feeling the IHS on Phantoms Opteron 165 is just really concave/convex. Sorry I can't recall but was the cooler you tested with lapped?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *phantommaggot* 
thanks everyone
sorry, i havent updated my sig rig
im using 2x1gb of OCZ plat ram

Phantommaggot, how much VDimm are you running with that set of memory? Your memory calls for 2.8volts. Sub-timings should be (as listed in your screen shot) are 2-3-2-5. Right now you are about 50Mhz overclocked on your memory. I'm sure the OCZ set is capable of those clocks but for purposes it might be wise to lower the memory divider. That should bring down the frequency. Try DDR 266 if it's listed in the BIOS. How much Vcore (processor voltage) are you currently running?

Good luck

EDIT: Sorry Phantom we must of posted at the same time. I'll read over your above post right now


----------



## txtmstrjoe

phantommaggot, how do you have your voltage controls set up?

The system behavior you've described sounds like you have "CPU Overvolt" enabled, but have your manually-set VCore at circa 1.1x to 1.2xV. (Enabling "CPU Overvolt" adds .2V to the manually-set VCore setting on the A8N32-SLI Deluxe.)

The A8N32-SLI Deluxe (well, at least on the two examples I've owned, including the one in the sig rig) has a nasty habit of not booting up properly if that initial manually-set VCore setting is too low. In my experience, anything below 1.27V is too low, which results in this goofy "system is running but is not booting" symptom.

Good luck.


----------



## phantommaggot

i know that my dram volts are 2.65 and my cpu voltage is set at 1.15 in bios
i cut my fsb up to 182 and that got me up to 181 mhz on mem and 2538 mhz on the chip

i have to go back to work for now, but ill check everything out when i get home..

thanks all
-J


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *phantommaggot* 
i know that my dram volts are 2.65 and *my cpu voltage is set at 1.15 in bios*
i cut my fsb up to 182 and that got me up to 181 mhz on mem and 2538 mhz on the chip

i have to go back to work for now, but ill check everything out when i get home..

thanks all
-J

Aha! I called this one, didn't I?









I'd recommend simply not using "CPU Overvolt" at all and just setting the VCore to whatever you need it to be manually (i.e., 1.36V or whatever comes closest, per your CPU-Z). The CPU Overvolt option never worked for me and I've never used it, despite the supposed advantages of the so-called "8-phase Power Regulation" system the MOSFETs have when CPU Overvolt is enabled.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *phantommaggot* 
you can see my core voltages in my cpuz
ill have to double check ram

also.. im having a kinda stupid problem..
when i reset the computer to change settings or operating systems.. it shuts down and wont restart.. i mean.. the computer is still on and running but i get nothing..
i have to hold the power button to cut it off and back on..
neways, heres my cpuz as of now

Phantommaggot, try relaxing your memory timings a little bit. At the moment they are pretty tight and this may be preventing you from overclocking your processor. For testing purposes try 3-3-3-8. I would also try changing your command rate from 1T to 2T. In my opinion it would be wise to rule out memory until we can find a nice stable overclock with your processor. Has a slight bump in Vcore provided any assistance? Try a 0.025 increase.

In regards to your shutdown/restart issues, have you tried just hitting the restart button on your machine? It almost sounds like the computer is going into standby.

Hopefully we get some more suggestions for your overclock

Good luck









EDIT: Good call Joe! That may very well have been one of the problems


----------



## N2Gaming

Yup there are a lot of things that can cause these type of problems. I say getting to know what all your bios setting are for and how to properly use them will be your biggest asset when it comes to getting better overclocks.

Good Luck,

N2G


----------



## phantommaggot

i got rained out... so... played around a bit more, 
i loosened mem timings a tad they are supposed to run at 2.5-3-2-5 im now at 3-3-3-5
also got it up to right at 2600 mhz but my memory is still underclocked.. 
im gonna try either pushing the fsb more from here or upping the mem speed setting


----------



## Blitz6804

Uhm... phantommaggot... it may not be a bad idea to change your backdrop or place your windows better before taking screen caps. Just my two cents.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *phantommaggot*


i got rained out... so... played around a bit more, 
i loosened mem timings a tad they are supposed to run at 2.5-3-2-5 im now at 3-3-3-5
also got it up to right at 2600 mhz but my memory is still underclocked.. 
im gonna try either pushing the fsb more from here or upping the mem speed setting


Phantommaggot, good to see relaxing the sub-timings and dropping the divider helped. Per txtmsrtjoe's suggestion have you check in the BIOS to see if "CPU-Overvolt" was enabled?

Probably the best way to approach this overclock would be to first find the limits of each component (processor, motherboard, and memory). This should give you a nice baseline to play with. Here are a few links that describe this process (Note: the AM2 guide doesn't follow S939 but the processes and procedures are similar):

http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...ing-guide.html
http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...ocket-am2.html

You could also try bumping up your HT (hypertransport) multiplier to 3x. You still have plenty of room with a 3x multiplier. I'm actually surprised you're able to run at 2x (550Mhz'ish). Usually anything below 680Mhz will cause instability.

Good luck


----------



## phantommaggot

over the past little bit ive actually went throu some of the normal oc process lol.. 
but i stuck myself here for now..

here in a bit ill go thoru the full process. same way i did with my good ol 3500

its just so time consuming lols...

yes the overvolt was on, i fixed that right up and set it up to 1.4 for the time being

also got it about where i want it and cut my k8-nb mult up to 3 already and also cut my mem back up to 166 heres what i got.










i know my mem may be a tad bit high, but unno.. lol it still isnt up where it was..

after i figure out how far i can push the FSB i may go with a lower mem setting and such and try for a much higher fsb
i really want to hit 2700+ 2800 would be ideal

right now if i go over 295 fsb it decides not too boot.. im gonna play more later tho


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *phantommaggot*


after i figure out how far i can push the FSB i may go with a lower mem setting and such and try for a much higher fsb
i really want to hit 2700+ 2800 would be ideal

right now if i go over 295 fsb it decides not too boot.. im gonna play more later tho


Phantommaggot, good idea. That memory frequency is high and I have feeling that may limit your overclock in the future. At least we know your memory is certainly capable of running beyond it's factory settings









Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

He must have a good set of the OCZ ram modules. I have the same ram. I have not tried to push them to much. I cheated and found a 2gig set of crucial ballistix DDR500. I have not played much w/them lately either.

Good job guy,

N2G


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


How high are we talking about here? (Sorry if this has been mentioned earlier; I've been out of the loop lately.







)


Temp or volts? I would stop stress tests @ 65*C (Core).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, are you sure the same applies to the Denmark/Toledo core? I have feeling the IHS on Phantoms Opteron 165 is just really concave/convex. Sorry I can't recall but was the cooler you tested with lapped?










I believe I tested it with the stock cooler, the V1 (did worse than stock), and the Big Typhoon which I lapped first thing. 
I check for proper contact which it did have, I think that one of the cores isn't contacting the IHS properly from underneath, hence I do not believe lapping would help all that much. Delidding it on the other hand, IMHO, would do wonders for it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *phantommaggot*


so.....
i cut my mem speed down to 166 and it wouldnt boot.....
so i cut it back again to 133 and it still wouldnt boot....
cut the k8 to nb down to 2x and it booted fine... 
l


 Sounds like the LDT or K8 to NB voltage needs an increase. I forget what the setting was on that board.

Joe, I never had a problem running that board with the CPU overvolt enabled. It seemed to just fine for the most part.

I was just thinking about the difference between how I had it set up and how phantom has it set up, and looking at his results it seems that my RAM was my limiting factor. As that is the only difference really. My kingstons absolutely hate any sort of OC, which is unfortunate, but on the other hand they also give the tightest timings I have ever seen 2-2-2-5. 
The corsairs are nice and so far I have been able to get a decent OC out of em on my DFI boards, (DDR450 @ 2.65v). 
But it seems the OCZ's are more forgiving.


----------



## phantommaggot

my 1gig set of XMS got 2-2-2-5, and they would hold up to at least 225mhz
i loved that ram... just not enough capacity


----------



## phantommaggot

OK
at 1.55v i got a max FSB (well im assuming) of between 355-360 it booted at 360 but not 365 (obviously i didnt go for the long run or stress test, but i dont plan on having my fsb set that high for any reason.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *phantommaggot* 
OK
at 1.55v i got a max FSB (well im assuming) of between 355-360 it booted at 360 but not 365 (obviously i didnt go for the long run or stress test, but i dont plan on having my fsb set that high for any reason.

I'd be careful running your fsb to high on that board. I had a A8N32 SLI Deluxe for a minute and it worked ok until I pushed the FSB to 380. Never was the same after that. I could never get it to run my ram correctly nor be stable ever again anything over 235. So consinder You self forwarned.


----------



## phantommaggot

ok, bumped it around and it wouldnt boot at 365fsb but did at 355 so ill just go with 355 as a "safe" max since i doubt ill ever see it
played around some more, voltage, multipliers, fsb. and no matter what i cant break ~2650 mhz... Heres my latest cpuz. at 2660 with a 241 mem
i guess ill start downing my voltage till it isnt stable, get them temps down.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *phantommaggot*


ok, bumped it around and it wouldnt boot at 365fsb but did at 355 so ill just go with 355 as a "safe" max since i doubt ill ever see it
played around some more, voltage, multipliers, fsb. and no matter what i cant break ~2650 mhz... Heres my latest cpuz. at 2660 with a 241 mem
i guess ill start downing my voltage till it isnt stable, get them temps down. 










That's not too bad for running a 8.5x multi.
Try running a tRAS of 9 or 11 to see how it does. Also use the default 9x multi.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey Phantommaggot, blitz has a overclock calculator that helps you determine the best settings for overclocking before you make any changes to you sytem ram spd, cpu fsb/multi and something else. I love that little excell calculator and if used properly you will be able to easily determine the ram speed with your settings that you plan on using before you hit the F10 key to save your bios setting and find out that your system wont boot or post because of bad settings.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hey Phantommaggot, blitz has a overclock calculator that helps you determine the best settings for overclocking before you make any changes to you sytem ram spd, cpu fsb/multi and something else. I love that little excell calculator and if used properly you will be able to easily determine the ram speed with your settings that you plan on using before you hit the F10 key to save your bios setting and find out that your system wont boot or post because of bad settings.










You know, I personally just use A64 MemFreq myself. Does the exact same thing, and its an easy to find download via google







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Might I humbly suggest Gogar's Athlon64 OC Optimizer (my best tool for RAM speed calculations)?









(BTW, there is a link to Gogar's OC Optimizer in the first post of the Club thread.







)


----------



## Blitz6804

I use Gogar in addition to the calculator that N2Gaming references. Gogar tells you what to clock things to; my calculator tells you what Windows will show settings at based on what you set the BIOS to. For example, if you set an Opteron 175 to DDR-300, have a 231 MHz HTT, and a 4x HT, it will tell you exactly what your CPU, RAM, and Hypertransport will be. (That being, 2541 MHz, DDR339, and 924 MHz respectively.)


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I use Gogar in addition to the calculator that N2Gaming references. Gogar tells you what to clock things to; my calculator tells you what Windows will show settings at based on what you set the BIOS to. For example, if you set an Opteron 175 to DDR-300, have a 231 MHz HTT, and a 4x HT, it will tell you exactly what your CPU, RAM, and Hypertransport will be. (That being, 2541 MHz, DDR339, and 924 MHz respectively.)

As will A64 MemFreq







.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I never had a problem running that board with the CPU overvolt enabled. It seemed to just fine for the most part.

BlackOmega, you were also running different components with that board









Quote:


Originally Posted by *phantommaggot* 
played around some more, voltage, multipliers, fsb. and no matter what i cant break ~2650 mhz... Heres my latest cpuz. at 2660 with a 241 mem
i guess ill start downing my voltage till it isnt stable, get them temps down.

Phantommaggot, great job from the previous 2.4Ghz OC.

With the processor multiplier at 9x and the memory below stock are you still not able to push any further the 2650Mhz? Am I reading the correct voltage that CPU-Z is displaying (1.440)? What kind of idle and full load temperatures are you seeing with that overclock?

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

True; for Skt939 users, it does not matter whether you use A64 MemFreq or my spreadsheet. On the other hand; my spreadsheet works for all K8s (Skt 754 through AM2) and all STARS (Skt AM2+) processors. Future versions may also have Intel thrown in there. At present, the calculator will only work for 800 FSB models. Also in the future is changing it from Excel to a Flash (SWF) file, such that it can be shown on a website sans download.


----------



## thlnk3r

In other words download which ever one you feel more comfortable with and obviously like


----------



## Kryton

I'm posting this as reference to what I was saying about voltage with his chip and RAM timings. 
Figured I would see how far this chip could go with the volts I had going to it as shown in CPU-Z.
Used ClockGen to work it up as far as it could go with the voltage shown.

You shoudn't need 1.40v to reach 2700MHz as this screenie proves.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


I'm posting this as reference to what I was saying about voltage with his chip and RAM timings. 
Figured I would see how far this chip could go with the volts I had going to it as shown in CPU-Z.
Used ClockGen to work it up as far as it could go with the voltage shown.

You shoudn't need 1.40v to reach 2700MHz as this screenie proves.


Kryton, thank you for pointing that out. I sort of agree and disagree. Even though the processors are both "Opteron 165's" that still doesn't mean their overclocking characteristics will be the same. A lot of other things come in to play as well such as different motherboard, different memory, different power supply and so on and so forth. Stepping can also make a difference but NOT always.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

thlnk3r, another point you could have maid is the fact that any one persons experience when doing overclocking will vary as well. One persons experience will definitely differ from another persons level of experience, thus eluding to variances yet to be discovered. If that makes any sense at all.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


thlnk3r, another point you could have maid is the fact that any one persons experience when doing overclocking will vary as well. One persons experience will definitely differ from another persons level of experience, thus eluding to variances yet to be discovered. If that makes any sense at all.










N2Gaming, that makes perfect sense and I agree with that. Let's see if Joe can get my Opteron 170 at 3Ghz with stock voltages


----------



## N2Gaming

I'd like to see that myself. Shoot I can't even get my opty 180 to 3.0 @ stock volts on my DFI NF4 SLI DR


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I'd like to see that myself. Shoot I can't even get my opty 180 to 3.0 @ stock volts on my DFI NF4 SLI DR


N2Gaming, we both think it's literally a golden chip. Probably helped that it was also running on a DFI board.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, that makes perfect sense and I agree with that. Let's see if Joe can get my Opteron 170 at 3Ghz with stock voltages










Is that a challenge?









My main concern for that chip is to see just how fast it can run 24/7, stable. Since it's reserved purely for underwater OCing, I am hopeful I can take it to around 3.1GHz (more if possible) and keep it there.

I may even take her top off, just to see how that works...


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, you were also running different components with that board










 Very good point thinker. After using the DFI boards, I actually kind of lost interest in my Asus. Not that it isn't a really nice board with LOTS of features, the stability and forgiveness of the DFI boards is considerably better. Not to mention the voltage regulation. I must say it is leaps and bounds better than the Asus. Rock solid. I also like the fact that the DFI boards have a lot more BIOS features. Makes it easier for a good stable overclock, IMO.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


You shoudn't need 1.40v to reach 2700MHz as this screenie proves.


 Actually, that particular processor will need more than stock voltage to get that high. Especially on that board, the vcore has a tendency to jump around quite a bit.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I'd like to see that myself. Shoot I can't even get my opty 180 to 3.0 @ stock volts on my DFI NF4 SLI DR


 Don't feel bad, I got my CPU from the same place you got yours, and I can't get it to 3.0 either without going about 0.10v higher than stock (1.35v), but it'll run 24/7 @ 2900 at stock







.
I think once my warranty runs out I'm going to either lap it or delid it.









Does anyone have any pics of a delidded dual core?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

As you command, BlackOmega.


----------



## BlackOmega

Thank you Joe
















Is there another row of resistors/transistors? It looks like there is, it also looks like it is REALLY close to the IHS mount on the 1 side.

Is it possible to get a closeup? If not, then don't worry about it. I just wanted to see how much room there was between the IHS silicone and the resistors.

OFF-TOPIC: I just got a new camera (gift), a Cannon Elph. I'll have to see how well it does on close-ups.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

EDIT: Accidental double post.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

BlackOmega, unfortunately I don't have any closeups that are of requisite quality to share.









I am, however, going to be taking the lid off of a Denmark pretty soon. I may even be with thlnk3r as I do this, so perhaps he can film me/photograph me as I do so.









(I'll have to ask him, though, if he'd like to be a partner in crime with me for this.







)


----------



## BlackOmega

That'd be awesome







You seen the trick that N2 uses for delidding? He vise grips a blade and uses the visegrips as a depth gauge. Good idea really.

EDIT: Is the guy in your avatar wearing stretchy pants?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I don't think anybody ever made spandex pants large enough for Captain Chaos!









Regarding N2G's trick, yep.







I prefer to do it fully manually, though.







I feel like I have far more control and feel.


----------



## BlackOmega

Lol.









I did the 3500+ manually. But seeing the extra row of resistors kind of puts me on edge. I also went through 4 razor blades when delidding it.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Lol.









I did the 3500+ manually. But seeing the extra row of resistors kind of puts me on edge. I also went through 4 razor blades when delidding it.

If thlnk3r and I can get together to do this filming/photography project, hopefully we can show how deeply you can go with that blade.

By the way, my preferred tool is an ordinary box-cutter blade. They are known to be a little fragile, though. I've broken a few in my attempts to take the top off of Opterons in the past.









Better a broken blade than a broken chip, though.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
If thlnk3r and I can get together to do this filming/photography project, hopefully we can show how deeply you can go with that blade.

By the way, my preferred tool is an ordinary box-cutter blade. They are known to be a little fragile, though. I've broken a few in my attempts to take the top off of Opterons in the past.









Better a broken blade than a broken chip, though.









Agreed. I used a box cutter. A fancy one but a box cutter none the less.

And I'd definitely would be interested in how deep you can take the blade. Especially on the one side with that extra row of resistors. From what I could make out in your pics it didn't look like there was much room at all.


----------



## N2Gaming

I have actually been sitting here on the phone w/another bud watching your post's and was tempted a couple of times to reply but restrained so that I would not be rude to my friend. In any case, I went threw a lot of Exacto blades my self until I found the correct blade that was sharp enough yet not to skinny at the tip. The skinny tip blades tend to brake off the tips very easily. tmj, I'm truly envious that you are comfortable just using the knife w/out any depth guide to prevent ic damage.

Good Luck guys.

Edit: tmj: good to see you paying tribute to a great actor The Dom...









I saw a tutorial of a guy de-liding a IHS w/one of those double sided blades that you get in the old fashioned shavers. You know the kind mom would shave her leggs with. This guy used the bare flexible blade w/his bare hands. I'm not that tough. I would be to afraid of slipping and loosing half of a finger...


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Is there another row of resistors/transistors? It looks like there is, it also looks like it is REALLY close to the IHS mount on the 1 side.


Really, REALLY, close. I accidently hit a pack and my chip has not worked since.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


BlackOmega, unfortunately I don't have any closeups that are of requisite quality to share.


Try the trick I do for all new processors: pad the pins with the foam block, and place the CPU on your scanner bed. It is the easiest and fastest way to record the stepping, I am sure it would work on a topless chip too.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Really, REALLY, close. I accidently hit a pack and my chip has not worked since.

Try the trick I do for all new processors: pad the pins with the foam block, and place the CPU on your scanner bed. It is the easiest and fastest way to record the stepping, I am sure it would work on a topless chip too.


A fine suggestion, scanning your IHS to record your stepping for posterity. Alas, I don't have a scanner.

Actually, the fastest way to record the stepping is to handwrite it.









If I remember, I'll take the electrical tape padding off of one of my already-naked chips and make some measurements of the distance from the chip PCB's perimeter to the outermost sides of the resistors (or whatever those small peripheral chips are on the core die's periphery).


----------



## Blitz6804

If it stops raining, I will run to the garage and scan mine. There is no danger in breaking it; it is already broken.


----------



## Blitz6804

This is what a Toledo looks like delidded. For the record, the IHS is slid to the left of where it would usually sit. That is, the IHS is in the identical orientation as the CPU's PCB so you know where things are. You can see I damaged the bottom left and bottom right packs.


----------



## N2Gaming

Can those resistors be replaced??? If that's all that's wrong w/the chip I think I would try to replace them and have a nice chip for a back up... I mean after all it is a Toledo.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


This is what a Toledo looks like delidded. For the record, the IHS is slid to the left of where it would usually sit. That is, the IHS is in the identical orientation as the CPU's PCB so you know where things are. You can see I damaged the bottom left and bottom right packs.











 Thanks for that Blitz.







Those are VERY close indeed.







I think N2's trick for delidding would be perfect right there.

From the looks of it, it doesn't appear to have much damage at all. I wonder if possibly you cut a connection or moved a connection and it grounded or it's getting power where it shouldn't be. Although, I do believe that you'd need a microscope to get a real clear picture of the extent of the damage to those little do-hickeys, what ever they may be.

I'll see if I can blow it up any.

EDIT: Well I blew it up as best I could, image quality really suffers when zoomed that much. But from what I could make out, on both the bottom left and right doo-hickeys the outermost "leg" towards the silicone appears to be cut. Maybe an electroconductive silver pen could be of some use in reconnecting those severed connections.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*












Brilliant stuff, Blitz. TYVM.









EDIT: Blitz: I now have a wish to test your Toledo. I have a hunch I can resurrect it. Would you be willing to ship it to me so I can find out if it'll fire up again?


----------



## Blitz6804

The bottom right has a severed leg. The bottom left appears to have two severed legs and a corner of the pack missing. I do not have the conductive pen required to fix it, nor do I have hands steady enough to fix it anyway. This is how it died in the first place.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


The bottom right has a severed leg. The bottom left appears to have two severed legs and a corner of the pack missing. I do not have the conductive pen required to fix it, nor do I have hands steady enough to fix it anyway. This is how it died in the first place.


 Lay off of the caffeine and have LOTS of patience. IIRC, those silver pens come in VERY small sizes. of course practice on something else then give it a shot. 
I believe that with enough practice anyone is capable of even the most daunting tasks.


----------



## N2Gaming

What kind of silver pin are you referring to. Does this silver pin have a very small tip? Is is like a soldering iron?

N2G is always eager to learn about new things.


----------



## Blitz6804

It is not a caffeine issue; I just have very unsteady hands at all times. This is why I say I feel older than I am all the time; I am going gray, cannot hold my hands steady, have constant back pain, and sometimes find it hard to move. I am falling apart. (And the doctor keeps screaming at my blood pressure for no real reason.)

N2Gaming: There is a type of pen, kinda like a whiteout pen, that uses conductive silver ink. I have seen a CPU repaired with one, but I have neither the pen nor the skill.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


It is not a caffeine issue; I just have very unsteady hands at all times. This is why I say I feel older than I am all the time; I am going gray, cannot hold my hands steady, have constant back pain, and sometimes find it hard to move. I am falling apart. (And the doctor keeps screaming at my blood pressure for no real reason..


 Dare I ask your age? I too have found a few grays, mine are from stress though. As I've gone through some highly stressful situations in the last 20 months.

Back pain- get your abs in shape. Your abs will make you correct your posture and you'll be surprised at how fast it actually goes away.

Finding it hard to move...... well I guess I would need more info to make an assumption.


----------



## Blitz6804

My back is genetically, and unfixably malaligned. Losing weight will help, but I have problems doing that. I turn 24 on Monday, but started going gray about three years ago.


----------



## N2Gaming

Now I would like to get in shape like you suggested by strengthening my abs. How ever it's not easy w/eye conditions. blitz you mentioned high blood pressure, you may want to take every step possible to get that under control by any means necessary be it changing your diet, increasing your exercise, reducing your stress or lastly blood pressure control pill. I would try the first two before any thing. I'd keep an eye on your blood pressure it can reek all kinds of havoc on your body, including permanent eye damage.

Can't work on your 939 to much if you can't see it.


----------



## nepas

I believe there is an epic thread on here somewhere,involving a delidded chip that was damaged and how it was brought back to life with some careful soldering


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, I read Poser thread on the subject before, which is why I know I cannot fix it.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
My back is genetically, and unfixably malaligned. Losing weight will help, but I have problems doing that. I turn 24 on Monday, but started going gray about three years ago.

Hmmm...







genetics is one thing, but even that can be corrected with enough determination. The human body is very pliable you should be able to correct it somewhat. It'll probably hurt like hell, but once you're done it won't.

And mind you even severe scoliosis can be corrected.
And just so you know, if you tell yourself you can't, then you will most inevitably fail. The mind is a very powerful tool, it can make or break you. A lot of the time the hardest part is re-training it.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Yeah, I read Poser thread on the subject before, which is why I know I cannot fix it.

Lol pretty funny thread. But see it is not impossible to repair. and whats the worst that could happen? Its already dead so its not like you're going to kill it again.


----------



## Blitz6804

It is not scoliosis. In my case, the only fix is to insert pins in my back, thereby hopefully reducing pain but guaranteed to reduce mobility.


----------



## N2Gaming

Those pins don't always work out so good either. The techniques Surgeons use today have come a long way as w/all medical practices and surgeries. However I'd have to agree w/u blitz some times it's just best to leave well enough alone and get by w/a some what tolerable level of pain vs fix what is not broken and possibly make things worse... From all of the people I talk to that have opted for spine fusion surgeries claim to always have sensitivities to cold water and of course the decreased flexibility in the area of fusion. Exercise is difficult at best when dealing w/these type of conditions as pain will always be the limiting factor in just how much activities you can tolerate. I know w/me it is very limited. Omega I have heard this all my life that it was just in my head and the mind can overcome the pain. Hmm I wish I had the wits to make that come true for me...


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Kryton, thank you for pointing that out. I sort of agree and disagree. Even though the processors are both "Opteron 165's" that still doesn't mean their overclocking characteristics will be the same. A lot of other things come in to play as well such as different motherboard, different memory, different power supply and so on and so forth. Stepping can also make a difference but NOT always.

Good luck

I understand why you would disagree and I wasn't trying to imply that all Opty's will run like that.
All I was trying to say is that he shoudn't need 1.40v's to get 2.7GHz from the chip. I'd have to say on average, 1.35v should be plenty to get it there. Yes, your hardware does make a difference as well as one's expertise in doing it.
Good points all around and let's see if we can't help him to at least get it to 2.7 regardless.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


I understand why you would disagree and I wasn't trying to imply that all Opty's will run like that. 
All I was trying to say is that he shoudn't need 1.40v's to get 2.7GHz from the chip. I'd have to say on average, 1.35v should be plenty to get it there. Yes, your hardware does make a difference as well as one's expertise in doing it. 
Good points all around and let's see if we can't help him to at least get it to 2.7 regardless.


 Despite all our pains.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Despite all our pains.











You know what they say - No pain, no gain.


----------



## phantommaggot

so, i dropped everything down to 2500 mhz
and superpi crashes while trying to calc 4M
its being really iffy on where and when it wants to boot as well.









front door open my temps like this are 38/32 core0/core1
if i close it, it goes up ALOT like 46/43

meh..


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


This is what a Toledo looks like delidded. For the record, the IHS is slid to the left of where it would usually sit. That is, the IHS is in the identical orientation as the CPU's PCB so you know where things are. You can see I damaged the bottom left and bottom right packs.


Blitz, if Joe cannot fix it I have a buddy that works at factory that builds/manufactures circuit boards for commercial and government purposes. Perhaps he would be able to take a look at it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


And just so you know, if you tell yourself you can't, then you will most inevitably fail. The mind is a very powerful tool, it can make or break you. A lot of the time the hardest part is re-training it.


These are helpful tips coming from someone that use to also lift









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


I understand why you would disagree and I wasn't trying to imply that all Opty's will run like that. 
All I was trying to say is that he shoudn't need 1.40v's to get 2.7GHz from the chip. I'd have to say on average, 1.35v should be plenty to get it there. Yes, your hardware does make a difference as well as one's expertise in doing it. 
Good points all around and let's see if we can't help him to at least get it to 2.7 regardless.


Kryton, no worries. Your point was well put.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *phantommaggot*


so, i dropped everything down to 2500 mhz
and superpi crashes while trying to calc 4M
its being really iffy on where and when it wants to boot as well.

front door open my temps like this are 38/32 core0/core1
if i close it, it goes up ALOT like 46/43


Phantommaggot, SuperPI is also from what I understand a memory intensive application. For testing purposes I recommend dropping your memory divider. Try to get the memory frequency at or below the factory spec'ed 200Mhz.

In regards to your temperature issues, how do you have your fans set up in the Silverstone Temjin case?

Good luck guys


----------



## phantommaggot

lol, i have a 110 cfm 120 mm in the front, 2 40ish cfm 80mms in the back and a 40ish 90mm in the top. and the 50ish cfm fan on my xigmatek.. 
that said, i am planning on putting another 90mm fan in the side of the cas right below the xigmatek but far enough over it wont mess with my cards, and im also planning to get some HIGH cfm fans for the xigmatek as well and run it on a push pull towards the powersupply.. that said, i want something fast in the power supply. 
those have been my plans for this case for a while since i wont be building a new system any time soon. and when i do, ill spring for a bit larger case that will allow for a different/larger cooler
i really want to send my front door off and have it cut for a fan tunnel, but unno..$$
i could do it myself, but this case is soo nice to not have a machine cut my circle..


----------



## txtmstrjoe

phantommaggot, what case do you have (so I can have a mental picture of what you're trying to do)?

Sometimes, having so many fans in so many different places does more harm than good, even if you're using really powerful fans. Strategic placement of fans will do better than just the brute force, "max CFM possible" approach.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Sometimes, having so many fans in so many different places does more harm than good, even if you're using really powerful fans. Strategic placement of fans will do better than just the brute force, "max CFM possible" approach.










Point well made Joe!

Phantom, on my last case it had a 120mm in the front (intaking). There was so much mesh and case material behind that fan that I couldn't even feel the slightest airflow movement. Just FYI, not sure if that is the same deal with your case.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I have also personally found a little duct work can go a long way. Putting a duct between an intake fan and your CPU cooler's fan can ensure more air goes where it is supposed to and it will generally be cooler than it otherwise would be depending on the material. Understand though, you would expect warmer passive-cooled items such as MOSFETs.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I have also personally found a little duct work can go a long way. Putting a duct between an intake fan and your CPU cooler's fan can ensure more air goes where it is supposed to and it will generally be cooler than it otherwise would be depending on the material. Understand though, you would expect warmer passive-cooled items such as MOSFETs.


Good points here, Blitz. Ducts channel and direct the flow of a fluid (in this case, air) to specific areas; this approach is probably the most efficient of all, as you get the least spillage (or "wasted" air not going where you want it to) possible.

I suspect this solution is also likely the quietest one.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


It is not scoliosis. In my case, the only fix is to insert pins in my back, thereby hopefully reducing pain but guaranteed to reduce mobility.


 Well that indeed is disheartening. Sounds like crushed vertebrae and/or slipped discs.








I know that if you strengthen the muscles around a weak bone area, like a knee for example, it takes a lot of the stress off of it usually reducing pain and increasing mobility. Some of the exercises are tailored to the patient, as some of them can be pretty unorthodox but effective.
Have you seen a rehab specialist?

You also mentioned weight loss, there is a way just by altering your diet you can lose weight. While it wont be as fast as if you exercised right along with it, it will still work to decrease your weight. 
Basically eating a hi protein low fat and low carb diet will make your body lose weight on its own. You'll notice that you will find yourself hungry a lot if you do not eat regularly, basically every hour or 2. And the more your body gets adjusted to the diet, it will eventually go in to keytosis which has its own benefits. 
Also, drinking _really_ cold water burns calories as your body needs to heat it up before it can use it.

Good luck.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Omega I have heard this all my life that it was just in my head and the mind can overcome the pain. Hmm I wish I had the wits to make that come true for me...


 It is true. Its actually a form of meditation. The burning man photo that is so famous (was on the cover of a Rage against the machine album) is actually a monk that doused himself with gasoline and set himself on fire. Doing so he didn't even so much as give out a yelp. Mind you he wasn't the only one that did this.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


These are helpful tips coming from someone that use to also lift










 Thanks







Controlling your brain is not the same as being controlled by it.


----------



## Blitz6804

As much as I love to revel in how defective my body is, could we drop it now? Maybe? Thanks.


----------



## phantommaggot

its this guy

i think my fan placement is fine, i just need to move a bit more air, i kind of get a vacuum effect with the big fan pulling throu the little holes on the side of the front door (the top and bottom of the front are both doors), it pulls really hard but throu tiny holes. so i usually just leave that door open. even pulling at 110 cfm it still blows air over 4 hard drives before that air makes it to the rest of the case.
everything else is in stock location. 
i want to put a fan on the side to bring air into the processor and vid card fans.

i have a window tho.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


As much as I love to revel in how defective my body is, could we drop it now? Maybe? Thanks.


 Terribly sorry Blitz wont bring it up again.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *phantommaggot*


i
i think my fan placement is fine, i just need to move a bit more air, i kind of get a vacuum effect with the big fan pulling throu the little holes on the side of the front door (the top and bottom of the front are both doors), it pulls really hard but throu tiny holes. so i usually just leave that door open. even pulling at 110 cfm it still blows air over 4 hard drives before that air makes it to the rest of the case.
everything else is in stock location. 
i want to put a fan on the side to bring air into the processor and vid card fans.


Phantommaggot, perhaps you could share some pictures with us showing your wire management? That temperature jump with the case door on is pretty high and should probably be looked at.

Let us know

Good luck


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Phantommaggot, perhaps you could share some pictures with us showing your wire management? That temperature jump with the case door on is pretty high and should probably be looked at.

Let us know

Good luck

I'll throw in my -2 cents worth by saying although the case pictured is a nice one, it's not a OC'ing case.
I've found out as many have that having fans blowing air in from the sidepanel and with an exhaust fan or two at the top will help lower temps. The key is to get some cool air directly to the CPU, RAM, ect and the fans on the sidepanel does this. Fans at the top of a case aids in getting rid of heat since heat naturally rises and tends to collect at the very top due to this, even with what would otherwise be good airflow. This "Dead Air" zone at the top can partially retain heat but having an outlet there will allow it to vent resulting in better cooling efficiency.

As an example, this is the case I have to use with my 939:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811166004

Note it has several fans all around the case. Yes, this thing isn't exactly quiet but I can live with it if it means better clocks without killing my stuff.
The reviews on it are good and that's why I got it when I did and it's a nice case to have. It also came with four out of the five fans included and that's a real plus, only fan you'd need to get is a 120mm for the very front and that's it. Only real con is the front covering is kinda fragile and but as lng as you won't be throwing it around the room, it's fine. I did though bust the front off of mine and haven't gotten around to fixing it yet.
I''ll also warn you this thing is BIG but has plenty of room inside for whatever you need. Luckily for me it fits on my desk without a problem.

There are other cases like this one out there and all I can say is if you want to try another case, shop around and see what's out there and get what will work best for you.


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, if Phantommaggot is skilled with a recipricating saw, he can cut a hole into the window and mount a 120mm, 250mm, 360mm, or any other fan he wants. I personally have 2 120mm fans on my Xaser's door, and will have a 250mm on the Armor's door. Once it gets shipped back anyway.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey Kryton I saw the link on the homepage of OCN that showed the new Transformers movie coming soon. Revenge of the fallen. Why don't they just call it Empire strikes back...







I'm not poking fun at your case Kryton by any means. It's just when I looked up your link to newegg for your type of case and saw the name transformer it reminded me of the new movie coming soon.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


I'll throw in my -2 cents worth by saying although the case pictured is a nice one, it's not a OC'ing case. 
I've found out as many have that having fans blowing air in from the sidepanel and with an exhaust fan or two at the top will help lower temps. The key is to get some cool air directly to the CPU, RAM, ect and the fans on the sidepanel does this. Fans at the top of a case aids in getting rid of heat since heat naturally rises and tends to collect at the very top due to this, even with what would otherwise be good airflow. This "Dead Air" zone at the top can partially retain heat but having an outlet there will allow it to vent resulting in better cooling efficiency. 
.


 Agreed, thats why I got my CM590. I have an Asus Vento 3600 but with the side on it it gets rather warm inside. It has a measly 80mm fan for the front intake, the side vent for the cpu and 1 120mm exhaust. Definitely not good enough airflow. Although it does seem to keep the mobo cooler







: 
Considering the amount I paid for it, I could've bought a MUCH better more functional case. Live and learn I suppose, I went for form over function on that.


----------



## thlnk3r

In my CM690, I turned the two top 120mm fans around so that they were intaking. I never compared between the two top fans either it being intake or exhaust but I found out that my board felt physically cooler. With my memory being near the top of the case I also found that it ran cooler. Right now my Antec 900 is exhausting air through that giant 200mm fan. In the future I may just flip that puppy around to see what happens.
Good luck


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Agreed, thats why I got my CM590. I have an Asus Vento 3600 but with the side on it it gets rather warm inside. It has a measly 80mm fan for the front intake, the side vent for the cpu and 1 120mm exhaust. Definitely not good enough airflow. Although it does seem to keep the mobo cooler







: 
Considering the amount I paid for it, I could've bought a MUCH better more functional case. Live and learn I suppose, I went for form over function on that.


When I was looking around for this case, I saw a few X-Clio cases that looked good:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811103010
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811103019
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811103011

The last one listed may be the best and the price isn't too bad either. The only reason I went with the Sunbeam was that it was a much cheaper case (These were on sale at the time). 
I look for function first, asthetics/form second when I shop around for PC stuff. I also know a full tower case tends to be better since you have more room inside, this allows for better airflow since alot of airflow problems are from cables and such simply getting in the way. More room for this internally = more clearance for air to move inside the case.


----------



## DesertRat

I'm feeling like a real arsehat not really contributing and only linking my s939-related FS/T/Appraisal threads...

Well... Here's my for sale thread. I'd like to get rid of this stuff relatively fast. Trades besides what's listed might be considered, depending on what it is...

http://www.overclock.net/sale/503501...ml#post6170343

BTW I have a Sandy @ 2.85Ghz stable @ 1.55v(never even hits 60c on the core under OCCT or Sm. FFTs in Orthos) in "the Man named Chester". I suppose it could use a name change now tho.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

phantommaggot, the comments about temperatures improving with the case door open strongly suggests that the door inhibits air intake. With such small intake holes, and with the holes positioned at a perpendicular angle to the plane of the motherboard (i.e., air has to take a 90 degree turn - via deflection against a solid surface, which only serves to further reduce the air's velocity going towards the fan and through it - before it proceeds to the CPU cooler and motherboard area), your case's ability to take in air is compromised. Even with a super-powerful fan doing intaking duties, that fan's performance is very inefficient due to the turn and deflection the air has to make.

Cutting a well-placed duct/hole in the side panel over the CPU area should improve your CPU temperatures. Just consider that you will affect your case's internal airflow if you adopt this strategy.

Good luck.


----------



## phantommaggot

Well, thanks for the input, i am definatly aware of the air flow issues with this case
i had always planned to put a port of some kind in the front of this case, but sending it off to a machine shop is a bit expensive. and id hate to start hacking into this thing with a dremel. im not bad at dremeling things.. but still, i like this case alot for its form.

heres a pic of my wire management
sorry for crappy cell phone pic, but my camera got stolen at my last job and i havent gotten around to buying another one...

ive also been thinking about a side panel fan but placement with cards and such becomes an issue...

i am also modding a case to become a fun media server that should get all the stuff in this case eventually.

case mod pics
1
2
3
im a bit farther along now, but its just been a bad weather project. 
one i get plexi mounted ill resand all the panels and give it a couple good coats of black and alot of clear. and the top, side, and bottoms will be done. 
the front still needs lots of sanding and probably another good coat of bondo.

ill try to get pics of how it sits now.. if anyone is interested.. 
its not much different but ive only put another 3 hours into it.. mostly bondo and sanding..


----------



## Blitz6804

Far better cable management than mine. *Jealousy.*


----------



## phantommaggot

thank you sir.
it took some time, but it works.. lol..

i know my next full build will get a modular power supply... those have to be the best idea ever.

on the other hand, with the side panel off im getting some HIGH temps.*****. so im gonna play a bit more..

i dont really like where its at and how its acting..

*****
im an idiot, i didnt realize avg was scanning and the processer was at FULL lol...


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, there are cases when if the side of the case is open you would expect higher temperatures, depending on how the case is set up. For example, if you have high CFM intakes on the door, having the door off (thereby making intake passive) you would expect a higher temperature. But yeah, AVG usually loads more than idle.


----------



## phantommaggot

lol i dont have a fan on the side,

i need to get a GOOD set of fans for that heat sink and a Great fan for the power supply in this thing tho

i have a question... 
do i need to take my voltage up as my total processor speed goes up, or just as my fsb goes up..

also, does anyone know a way to adjust the DRAM idle timer on this board (a8n32-sli deluxe). i know on my 3500+ that made a world of difference in my overclock but i could only change it with A64 tweaker.. so i could only boot windows with certain overclocks


----------



## Blitz6804

Generally, you need to increase your vCore as your CPU speed increases, and the chipset voltages as the HTT increases. Do not increase either voltage until instability is inevitable.

As to DRAM idle timer, I do not know off the top of my head (never used that board), but Pioneerisloud or Txtmstrjoe would be good people to ask, both of which have intimate knowledge with that board. I am going to see if I can find a BIOS manual for you.


----------



## phantommaggot

i have the manual right here.. 
lol.. but much like my other asus board.. its fairly useless as far as im concerned.


----------



## BlackOmega

Phantom, the DRAM idle timer should be in with all of the other RAM settings. Although there are several options that are probably set to auto. When you set these to manual it opens up another slew of adjustment options.

Very nice cable management BTW, looks very clean. Thats a nice looking case too.


----------



## phantommaggot

lol, i have a total of $7 or so in that case . everything else for it has been free so far. 
having friends is cool... lol..
that case is going to get my 3500+ system jammed in it. finishing it is the next thing on my project list.. right now im in the middle of a $1000+ completely custom 1/200 body, 1/1 milled Paintball gun project
then i can get my windows mounted on the project, and get it at least together. im not going to use any optical drives with it. just gonna use one to install operating systems

ya, i did a decent job with those cables.. it looks like a rats nest on the other side of the 3.5 drives tho







but its all i could do with the xtra cable crap besides cut them off.

as far as any other cases posted. i know they may have better air flow, but theyre defiantly my style. i like how "clean" my temjin looks. even when i put a duct in the front ill probably use a thick aluminum tube for the port and find a way to properly attach it with screws or bolts. 
the one im building up there is getting smoke plexi put everywhere you could see directly into the case so it will look like a smooth black box when its off. and when its on only thing youll see (unless you flip switches) will be dim lights from the big window and the amd logo.
most new cases are too ''factory modded" for me.

im also in the process of digging around to start a more UP to DaTe PC build.. probably AM2+ for $$/Performance reasons 
ive pretty much decided on chip1 or chip2, board, ram. but that dosent belong here so ill just stop now. lol


----------



## BlackOmega

Phantom, at the prices of the stuff you're looking at you might as well build an AM3 rig. The only thing that'll be more expensive is the CPU. It'll be about $50 more but it'll have an extra core and overclock a hell of a lot better than that Kuma.

Check this stuff out. AM3 710 $119.00 shipped. Gigabyte UD4P $125 after MIR. And here some OCZ RAM $65 shipped.

SO as you can see for slightly more money you can have the latest and greatest. Even if you dont go with the AM3 board/DDR3 definitely get the CPU.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Hehe, hey guys...check out my latest run on my Opty....

CPUz Validation Link


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Hehe, hey guys...check out my latest run on my Opty....

CPUz Validation Link




















































:Sn orkle:


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Hehe, hey guys...check out my latest run on my Opty....

CPUz Validation Link
































Just curious, voltage?

EDIT: What are you using for cooling? Xiggy?


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Hehe, hey guys...check out my latest run on my Opty....

CPUz Validation Link


Pulling one of my stunts eh?









Well done!

Now I gotta see if I can get my 165 to do the same or even close.....


----------



## phantommaggot

lol, here im stuck at 2600 lol.. 
that is amazing..

can you post a pic of your mem settings as well?
mostly i want to see your voltages
or at lease describe them

and BO
i also know that AM3 isnt much more expensive
i love this chip and its potential
im just not too happy with motherboard selection for am3 right now...


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *phantommaggot*


lol, here im stuck at 2600 lol.. 
that is amazing..

can you post a pic of your mem settings as well?
or at lease describe them


PIO is insane! His normal overclocks are my suicide runs!


----------



## Blitz6804

So, as some of you may or may not know, I did a bit of a silly mod. It seemed to me like the gaps between the Scythe Ultra-Kaze (3000 RPM) and the Noctua NH-C12P could be decreasing the pressure that goes through the fins. Accordingly, I ran metal duct tape (like what you would use on a drier) around the perimeter of the fan-cooler junction thereby causing ALL air that goes through the fan to also go through the cooler. Now that I got my graphics card back, I was able to test it: 1.3Âº C warmer ambient; 1.8Âº C lower S&M FPU load. I have not tried OCCT with the mod. While it is nice to save some temp, I will still be precluded from overclocking any further due to load temps, especially in light of the fact my summer ambient temperature is 4.4Âº C warmer than my winter ambient. (I was fortunate in that outside it is only 45Âº F, thereby permitting me to approach my winter ambients without needing to waste on the air conditioning bill.)


----------



## Blitz6804

The off-site roster is once again up to date... although, the formatting on it is still incomplete; any takers to help me finish it?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *phantommaggot* 
heres a pic of my wire management

Phantommaggot, great job on the cable management. That gets a +1 from me









Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Hehe, hey guys...check out my latest run on my Opty....

CPUz Validation Link

Pio, that's a pretty sick overclock. Care to share all the settings you had to adjust to get there? Is it OCCT or Orthos/Prime95 stable?

Good luck


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 






























Just curious, voltage?

EDIT: What are you using for cooling? Xiggy?

Voltage was at 1.55v....1.35v + Asus Overvolt. And yes, this was with my Xiggy with 2 Ultra Kaze fans in a push / pull, and ambients of around 45*F.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *phantommaggot* 
lol, here im stuck at 2600 lol..
that is amazing..

can you post a pic of your mem settings as well?
mostly i want to see your voltages
or at lease describe them

and BO
i also know that AM3 isnt much more expensive
i love this chip and its potential
im just not too happy with motherboard selection for am3 right now...

My memory settings were one stick of 1GB, 133 divider, 2.5-3-2-5-1T, 2.85v. I had to take it down to 1GB of RAM, otherwise it wouldn't go this high.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
PIO is insane! His normal overclocks are my suicide runs!
















Of course







. That's only because I've got a golden chip here







.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Phantommaggot, great job on the cable management. That gets a +1 from me









Pio, that's a pretty sick overclock. Care to share all the settings you had to adjust to get there? Is it OCCT or Orthos/Prime95 stable?

Good luck

It wasn't stable AT ALL. I was able to stabilize 3.2GHz for an hour with Orthos. Again, this was all with a single 1GB stick of RAM, and 45ish *F ambient temperatures with 2 super fast fans in a push / pull.

Here's a low down of the settings it took....

373MHz HTT (FSB)
9x Multiplier
1.35v + CPU Overvolt
NB and SB Overvolt
HT Link Overvolt
2x HT Link

I was able to boot into Windows, and get this validation. When the internet window popped up for validation, it crashed. I tried to go just 1 more MHz higher on my HTT, and it wouldn't POST anymore. So I knew that was it for now. But this was done 100% via BIOS this time. I was tempted to try out Clockgen to see if I could break 3.4GHz+...but I think my board is the limiting factor on this chip now. And temperatures obviously.
133 divider
2.5-3-2-5-1T, 2.85v (1x 1GB stick)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I was able to stabilize 3.2GHz for an hour with Orthos. Again, this was all with a single 1GB stick of RAM, and 45ish *F ambient temperatures with 2 super fast fans in a push / pull.

Pioneerisloud, thanks for posting those settings. Even if that is not stable, STILL 3.2Ghz is a awesome overclock. Do you plan on staying with that?

Good luck


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Pioneerisloud, thanks for posting those settings. Even if that is not stable, STILL 3.2Ghz is a awesome overclock. Do you plan on staying with that?

Good luck

Unfortunately, my ambient temperatures here at the house won't allow it. And I am determined to keep 4GB of RAM, so I'm staying at 3.0GHz for now. This was all done with only a single 1GB stick of RAM and REALLY low ambient temps at a friend's house.


----------



## Blitz6804

We need to find some way to get you a W/C and/or TEC system for your birthday; that chip could put AM2 rigs to shame.


----------



## phantommaggot

^^^ thanks again for another comment on my cable management.
i spent alot of time on it... and it works great.

PIO: thank you, thats what i wanted to know..
i just wanna get my chip above 2700, id like to get 2800.. but if i had to take it down to a gig of ram for that it would almost be pointless on this setup.

I however will be ordering a nice 119 cfm fan (yay for vantec) for my xigmatek sometime soon tho. considering getting 2 for the big push/pull.. hopefully that will help a lil bit with temps and i can get a bit more speeEEEeed!!.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Voltage was at 1.55v....1.35v + Asus Overvolt. And yes, this was with my Xiggy with 2 Ultra Kaze fans in a push / pull, and ambients of around 45*F.

My memory settings were one stick of 1GB, 133 divider, 2.5-3-2-5-1T, 2.85v. I had to take it down to 1GB of RAM, otherwise it wouldn't go this high.

Of course







. That's only because I've got a golden chip here







.

It wasn't stable AT ALL. I was able to stabilize 3.2GHz for an hour with Orthos. Again, this was all with a single 1GB stick of RAM, and 45ish *F ambient temperatures with 2 super fast fans in a push / pull.

Here's a low down of the settings it took....

373MHz HTT (FSB)
9x Multiplier
1.35v + CPU Overvolt
NB and SB Overvolt
HT Link Overvolt
2x HT Link

I was able to boot into Windows, and get this validation. When the internet window popped up for validation, it crashed. I tried to go just 1 more MHz higher on my HTT, and it wouldn't POST anymore. So I knew that was it for now. But this was done 100% via BIOS this time. I was tempted to try out Clockgen to see if I could break 3.4GHz+...but I think my board is the limiting factor on this chip now. And temperatures obviously.
133 divider
2.5-3-2-5-1T, 2.85v (1x 1GB stick)

I have two A8N32's and neither will hit the bus speeds you've been getting.

Great job all around with that one.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *phantommaggot* 
BO
i also know that AM3 isnt much more expensive
i love this chip and its potential
im just not too happy with motherboard selection for am3 right now...

Are you looking for an SLI board? There are bit more boards out right now but it seems as though they're all Crossfire.

So far the one that has really caught my eye is this Gigabyte UD5P.
DFI has also just released a new board it doesn't look too bad either. Here is that one.

I have to agree that the board selection is rather slim. Too bad they can't do something like the i7's where you can have either crossfire or SLI on the same board. I think if AMD did that A LOT more people would buy it over the intel systems.

Well finally got my rigs sorted out. Although, my folding rig has been BSODing (IRQL error), when I went to try to de-frag it popped up some error saying that there was some driver conflicts. SO I ran scandisk and had it repair. The odd thing is, this is a totally fresh install. Although I did use the ULi SATA connector rather than the Silicon image one.
At any rate, scan disk seemed to have fixed the issue. But here the really strange part, I ran HDtach before the defrag and got an average of 57.7MB/s with a peak burst of 167.x MB/s.
After defrag my average dropped to 54.4 and my burst increased to 170. I would've thought that defragging would help not hinder performance.
Also, before the defrag the line graph was fairly linear that tapered off gradually. After defrag the linear graph looked more like a heartbeat on an EKG.








At any rate, I set my other rig up using the Nvidia chipset. I'll do some benchs on the RAID array and see if the nvidia controller works better than the silicon image one did.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
I have two A8N32's and neither will hit the bus speeds you've been getting.

Great job all around with that one.

Yeah, that's what I've heard too. I REALLY wish I could get my hands on a DFI Ultra D board that can pull more HTT than this Asus can. With a better board, and possibly some DICE (which I can run on this thing), I'll bet I could hold world records.....


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Yeah, that's what I've heard too. I REALLY wish I could get my hands on a DFI Ultra D board that can pull more HTT than this Asus can. With a better board, and possibly some DICE (which I can run on this thing), I'll bet I could hold world records.....


I do believe that I have one of those Ultra-D's that can pull 400+. I got it to boot @ 405 IIRC. Was stable @ 403.







Granted that was with my 3500+ and 1 GB (2x512) HyperX. I think the Hyperx was my limiting factor on that though as it absolutely HATES going over 200MHz. So great OCing RAM there


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
After defrag my average dropped to 54.4 and my burst increased to 170. I would've thought that defragging would help not hinder performance.
Also, before the defrag the line graph was fairly linear that tapered off gradually. After defrag the linear graph looked more like a heartbeat on an EKG.

BlackOmega, the average results in HDTach will go up and down. Do a couple of runs and average those outs. I don't think 57MB/s and 54MB/s is a huge difference.

On the second test were you sure your drive wasn't accessing any data? Perhaps a background process was using some drive I/O? Check perfmon to see if anything is running. Start->Run, type "*perfmon*". Click _Add_ (or CTRL+I). Under _Performance object_, choose _PhysicalDisk_. Under the counters list choose _Disk Transfers/sec_. Click _Close_ and on the bottom of perfmon click on _Disk Transfers/sec_. After that click the _Highlight_ (CTRL+H) button. The highlight feature should highlight the the disk transfers with a big white line. Pay attention to the _Average_ results.

Good luck


----------



## phantommaggot

can anyone get me the newest version of clock gen??
i havent used clock gen in a long time, and i thought about downloading it (as opposed to the asus tool since it requires a restart) but cpuid has said "clockgen will be back soon" for a while now.. i found 1.0.5.3, is that it??

edit,
1.5.0.3
worked fine..








i changed a bios setting or 2 set my chip volts up to 1.425 and cut the overvolt back on
i also bumped my dram volts up by 1
got to this









my temps are 39/33 with winamp and a few other things running


----------



## thlnk3r

Phantommaggot, wow man that looks great









You've come a long way from your 2.4Ghz overclock. Those temperature are looking good as well. Have you started stability testing yet or do you still plan on pushing that processor more? So if I understand this correctly are you doing a mix of overclocking through the bios and within Windows (clockgen)?

Good luck


----------



## phantommaggot

it wasnt exactly stable there.. but... it completely died out at 2900

what i did to achieve that was up the voltage base a bit in bios and cut on overvolt to see where it put me on cpuz as i upped the fsb with clockgen, as you can see i was at like 1.6 volts. a bit more than the 1.425 i have set in bios.

SO, for now ive kicked it back down to 2700 (300x9) and cut my mem divider back up so im getting 245.5 mhz ram speed. and at 2700 my HTT is at 900 so im good

its stable as it is for now.. im going to order 2 vantecs at the end of the week and stick them on my xigma to see if i can crank the voltage a bit more and go higher.

right now my limits seem to be voltage and temp. the more i play the more that just sticks out as the problem.


----------



## BlackOmega

Allright guys got my folding rig up and running and folding on both GPUs'









Put my sig rig together, but I was noticing that it only shows 3.25gb of RAM installed. I thought the max XP allowed was 3.5







Any input on this matter?

Also, I was looking at my voltages and they all seem low. My +12v is @ 11.71v, +1.5 is 1.47v, +3.3v is 3.24v, +5.0 is 4.91v, and even my CPU voltage seems to bounce around from 1.29 to 1.31v. Do those voltages seem ok? This is the PSU in my sig rig , btw.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Allright guys got my folding rig up and running and folding on both GPUs'









Gratz mate!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Put my sig rig together, but I was noticing that it only shows 3.25gb of RAM installed. I thought the max XP allowed was 3.5







Any input on this matter?

Its all relative to the amount of Page File, Actual RAM, & VRAM you have (Video RAM)

But that does sound fairly normal and what you would expect.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Also, I was looking at my voltages and they all seem low. My +12v is @ 11.71v, +1.5 is 1.47v, +3.3v is 3.24v, +5.0 is 4.91v, and even my CPU voltage seems to bounce around from 1.29 to 1.31v. Do those voltages seem ok? This is the PSU in my sig rig , btw.

Multimeter or Software checking?

Though, I'm not sure what +1.5 is, sounds like it could be a Voltage for one of your parts. Its not a PSU voltage though.

PSU's only have + & - 3.0v, 5.0v, & 12.0v


----------



## Blitz6804

I am amazed it shows 3.25 GB actually. You have two 0.75 GB cards, I would expect it to show no more than 2.5 GB.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Put my sig rig together, but I was noticing that it only shows 3.25gb of RAM installed. I thought the max XP allowed was 3.5







Any input on this matter?

Also, I was looking at my voltages and they all seem low. My +12v is @ 11.71v, +1.5 is 1.47v, +3.3v is 3.24v, +5.0 is 4.91v, and even my CPU voltage seems to bounce around from 1.29 to 1.31v. Do those voltages seem ok? This is the PSU in my sig rig , btw.

BlackOmega, is memory hole remapping enabled in the BIOS?

In regards to the voltage question, I'd advice checking with a multimeter and not relying on software. Software as you know isn't always 100% accurate. Check the rails during *idle* and *load*. Here is a helpful guide that explains this process: http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/guide...ing-guide.html.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

thlnk3r: He has XP x86. Regardless of the status of the hole, he will have less than 4 GB. With the hole enabled, you would expect up to 3.5 GB. With the hole disabled, you would expect less than 3.0 GB.


----------



## nepas

those voltage readings look better than mine!I am using the PSU from my sig rig and my +12v shows 11.78,But if I put it back in my sig rig it shows 11.94.
Also I have a Hiper type R that used to be in my sig rig and that shows the same voltages as this one,so in my case I think its a quirk of my board


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
thlnk3r: He has XP x86. Regardless of the status of the hole, he will have less than 4 GB.

Blitz, yep I am fully aware of that.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
With the hole enabled, you would expect up to 3.5 GB.

As why I suggested enabling "memory hole remapping"


----------



## Blitz6804

Since he was showing 3.25 GB, he likely has the hole turned on. In fact, I am willing to wager he also has PAE turned on. When I had the AGP HD 3850, remap without PAE gave me 3.5 GB, remap with PAE gave me 3.25 GB. (Without remap, I showed 3.0 GB.)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Since he was showing 3.25 GB, he likely has the hole turned on. In fact, I am willing to wager he also has PAE turned on. When I had the AGP HD 3850, remap without PAE gave me 3.5 GB, remap with PAE gave me 3.25 GB. (Without remap, I showed 3.0 GB.)


Blitz, if he has it on then he has it on...no worries man









I'd recommend not having \\PAE mode enabled. There are several reasons per Microsoft on why you should not have pae enabled. One main reason being that some drivers are not even compatible with PAE on. The 4GB limit is just a OS limitation (XP 32-bit).

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Gratz mate!
Its all relative to the amount of Page File, Actual RAM, & VRAM you have (Video RAM) But that does sound fairly normal and what you would expect. 
Multimeter or Software checking? 
Though, I'm not sure what +1.5 is, sounds like it could be a Voltage for one of your parts. Its not a PSU voltage though. 
PSU's only have + & - 3.0v, 5.0v, & 12.0v


 This is purely software checking (smartguardian). I'll have to check with my voltmeter later. And the 1.5 is the NB voltage.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I am amazed it shows 3.25 GB actually. You have two 0.75 GB cards, I would expect it to show no more than 2.5 GB.


 This is my sig rig Blitz so I actually have 1GB VRAM.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, is memory hole remapping enabled in the BIOS?

In regards to the voltage question, I'd advice checking with a multimeter and not relying on software. Software as you know isn't always 100% accurate. Check the rails during *idle* and *load*. Here is a helpful guide that explains this process: http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/guide...ing-guide.html.

Good luck


 Not sure thinker I'll have to check it later. Gotta take care of my boys here in a minute. Thanks for the link









Quote:



Originally Posted by *nepas*


those voltage readings look better than mine!I am using the PSU from my sig rig and my +12v shows 11.78,But if I put it back in my sig rig it shows 11.94.
Also I have a Hiper type R that used to be in my sig rig and that shows the same voltages as this one,so in my case I think its a quirk of my board


 I dont think its a quirk of this one though. I had this board running as my old folding rig and I was using my Antec Sp500 that has a squealing capacitor unless its under load. The voltages seemed to be more stable and well just better. But I did pretty much change everything out but the board.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, if he has it on then he has it on...no worries man









I'd recommend not having \\PAE mode enabled. There are several reasons per Microsoft on why you should not have pae enabled. One main reason being that some drivers are not even compatible with PAE on. The 4GB limit is just a OS limitation (XP 32-bit).

Good luck


 Sorry for the newbtastic question but what is PAE?


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah Thlnk3r, I advocate having it off as well... if only for the fact it took 1/4 GB of RAM away from me.

BlackOmega: PAE = Physical Address Extension. As I understand it, it is a mostly-software based workaround of the 4 GB address space limit. I believe it started with Intel, when they first made a 36-bit processor. Those extra four bits were used when using PAE. Helpful for a server, not very helpful for a desktop / workstation.


----------



## Hueristic

Initial workaround was Expanded, 16k pages were flipped to accesable mem through a mem manager (emm386.exe,qemm and others). Extended was incorporated into 286 and was called protected mode (needed reboot to access mem). with X386 extended could be accessed through the himem.sys driver.

Not sure what the latest work around is but it is always invariably slower if the cpu tries to access more mem than it has address lines for.

/Off showing age


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah Hue, substantially the same system with substantially the same consequences. +REP.


----------



## BlackOmega

Thanks for the clarification guys.









So i thought my woes with the folding rig were over wrong. I checked my WU production after ~19hours, 3 WUs'







Go to check the folding rig, shes locked up again. :swearing: So I just re-installed the OS again, only difference is I didn't install 1 of the drivers off of the mobo CD Marvell Teamming application.
So far, so good. We'll see what happens after I install SP3, last time it BSODed when I tried to install it.

As for my sig rig, looks like its time to upgrade to something that can actually utilize my 4GB.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


We'll see what happens after I install SP3, last time it BSODed when I tried to install it.


BlackOmega, shoot I don't even run SP3. I had some test machines at work that didn't play well when SP3 released. Since then I've never really tried it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


As for my sig rig, looks like its time to upgrade to something that can actually utilize my 4GB.


I know quite a few users on OCN that are happy with Vista 64-bit and 4GB+ memory. That OS seems to be the sweet spot for users that are running a lot of memory.

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, shoot I don't even run SP3. I had some test machines at work that didn't play well when SP3 released. Since then I've never really tried it.

I know quite a few users on OCN that are happy with Vista 64-bit and 4GB+ memory. That OS seems to be the sweet spot for users that are running a lot of memory.

Good luck

I've never had a problem with SP3 before. I wonder if it has something to do with the ULi SB and the SATA. Before with the CFX board I used the Sil chipset for the RAID array.
I've been messing with this thing so much that I haven;t even had time to install anything on my sig rig. And now that I've got this crappy XP120 cooler on it I can't even OC it :swearing:
Well looks like its time to get a xiggy.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I've never had a problem with SP3 before. I wonder if it has something to do with the ULi SB and the SATA. Before with the CFX board I used the Sil chipset for the RAID array.

BlackOmega, try it without Service Pack 3 and see how that goes. To be honest SP3 is not a "must have". You can still download all the regular security updates through Microsoft's website. Service Pack 2 on the other hand is a different story









Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

M$ never released a SP3 for XP Pro X64 bit. I think thlnk3r may be right on the money when saying that SP3 is not a must have service pack for XP. If any thing it was prolly M$ way of testing for the next OS platform


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


M$ never released a SP3 for XP Pro X64 bit. I think thlnk3r may be right on the money when saying that SP3 is not a must have service pack for XP. If any thing it was prolly M$ way of testing for the next OS platform










XP x86 and XP (Pro) x64 are very different when it comes to service packs. The SPs definitely don't contain the same updates.
The x86 SP2 came in 2004, which was before Microsoft had even released the XP Professional x64 edition.








The x64 SP2 on the other hand, is from 2007 which, of course, makes it a lot more up to date than the x86 SP2 which is almost 5yrs old.


----------



## BlackOmega

Ok so heres an update to my folding woes. After re-installing the OS (again) I only updated to SP2. It worked fine for a while but started locking up after wards. So I decided to use the Sil chipset, but for some reason it has disappeared. This is my CFX3200 board btw. Anyway, when I had the RAID utility enabled on the Sil chipset it would pick up the drive. Hell I even did a low level format on it. But in the BIOS none of the Sil SATA ports show up. It only shows ports1-4 which is the ULi chipset.









So I guess I either need a new board or different GPUs' that'll fit on my other Ultra-D (top heatsink gets in the way on these GSOs').


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


It worked fine for a while but started locking up after wards. So I decided to use the Sil chipset, but for some reason it has disappeared. This is my CFX3200 board btw. Anyway, when I had the RAID utility enabled on the Sil chipset it would pick up the drive. Hell I even did a low level format on it. But in the BIOS none of the Sil SATA ports show up. It only shows ports1-4 which is the ULi chipset.


BlackOmega, this motherboard is being a pain isn't it? SATA ports disappearing from the BIOS is not a good sign. Did you reset the BIOS to see if they reappear? I know a low voltage CMOS battery can cause these types of issues. I for one can speak from experience









Have you tried avoiding the raid setup and just running a single drive?

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Ok so heres an update to my folding woes. After re-installing the OS (again) I only updated to SP2. It worked fine for a while but started locking up after wards. So I decided to use the Sil chipset, but for some reason it has disappeared. This is my CFX3200 board btw. Anyway, when I had the RAID utility enabled on the Sil chipset it would pick up the drive. Hell I even did a low level format on it. But in the BIOS none of the Sil SATA ports show up. It only shows ports1-4 which is the ULi chipset.









So I guess I either need a new board or different GPUs' that'll fit on my other Ultra-D (top heatsink gets in the way on these GSOs').


On the CFX3200, hard drives mounted on the SiI-controlled SATA ports never show unless you run some kind of RAID array on them (by pressing F6 during WinXP installation). You also have to enable the SiI ports to RAID before installing WinXP on these ports.

(I forget which settings in the BIOS pre-enable the SiI ports, but there is a setting there, for sure. Look under the RAID settings.)

From what I've read, the reason why the SiI SATA ports aren't "active" right out of the box is that DFI stuffed so much information into the CMOS EPROM chip there's simply no room left for the necessary code for them in the EPROM chip.

BlackOmega, another option you can explore (one I'm ready to, if all else fails) is to get an inexpensive SATA controller card. The ULi controller is just too goofy on too many of these CFX3200s; unless you're willing to run a RAID array off of the SiI controller, you're begging for problems with the ULi controller.

I'll be preparing to revisit my own CFX3200 very soon, with a RAID0 array with plain ol' Raptors off of the SiI controller. We'll see how well that works...


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, this motherboard is being a pain isn't it? SATA ports disappearing from the BIOS is not a good sign. Did you reset the BIOS to see if they reappear? I know a low voltage CMOS battery can cause these types of issues. I for one can speak from experience









Have you tried avoiding the raid setup and just running a single drive?

Good luck


 That it is thinker. I reset the BIOS, no change. Well the RAID was enabled from my other drives so i know it was actually picking the drive up. But once I shut the RAID controller down in the BIOS it just keeps telling me there is no drive :swearing:
\\

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


On the CFX3200, hard drives mounted on the SiI-controlled SATA ports never show unless you run some kind of RAID array on them (by pressing F6 during WinXP installation). You also have to enable the SiI ports to RAID before installing WinXP on these ports.

(I forget which settings in the BIOS pre-enable the SiI ports, but there is a setting there, for sure. Look under the RAID settings.)

From what I've read, the reason why the SiI SATA ports aren't "active" right out of the box is that DFI stuffed so much information into the CMOS EPROM chip there's simply no room left for the necessary code for them in the EPROM chip.

BlackOmega, another option you can explore (one I'm ready to, if all else fails) is to get an inexpensive SATA controller card. The ULi controller is just too goofy on too many of these CFX3200s; unless you're willing to run a RAID array off of the SiI controller, you're begging for problems with the ULi controller.

I'll be preparing to revisit my own CFX3200 very soon, with a RAID0 array with plain ol' Raptors off of the SiI controller. We'll see how well that works...










 Yeah theres a setting for enabling the Sil RAID controller in the genie bios settings submenu, then its PCI config (or something along those lines, 3rd one down on the list).
And it seemed the ULi controller worked ok for a while then it just started locking up. At first it happened after several hours then it consistently was happening almost immediately after getting in to windows.

While I was sitting on the "throne" I had a thought, if I can find a _cheap_ IDE drive that would suit my purposes just fine. Hell even a 20GB one would do. The only thing that would be on it is the OS, Adobe and [email protected]/[email protected]

I'm about to go pick up my cat from the groomers and I think I'll stop by this computer store that has used stuff. Maybe I can score. That would be great as I have 4 cores that could be folding not doing a dang thing.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


And it seemed the ULi controller worked ok for a while then it just started locking up. At first it happened after several hours then it consistently was happening almost immediately after getting in to windows.

While I was sitting on the "throne" I had a thought, if I can find a _cheap_ IDE drive that would suit my purposes just fine. Hell even a 20GB one would do. The only thing that would be on it is the OS, Adobe and [email protected]/[email protected]


BlackOmega, sounds like to me that raid controller is just borked. Wasn't that the original problem with these motherboards? Such a pain.

I think a IDE drive would suit you just fine for this setup. If it's going to be sitting in the corner of your room Folding then it really doesn't need to have a beefy drive. Raid 1 would have been nice. You could also just clone the drive after everything is setup.

Good luck


----------



## Jacka

http://www.overclock.net/appraisals/...dfi-nf4-d.html

Would you mind posting some appraisals on here for a friend?

Thank you!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, sounds like to me that raid controller is just borked. Wasn't that the original problem with these motherboards? Such a pain.

I think a IDE drive would suit you just fine for this setup. If it's going to be sitting in the corner of your room Folding then it really doesn't need to have a beefy drive. Raid 1 would have been nice. You could also just clone the drive after everything is setup.

Good luck


 Im not sure if this is the exact issue with these boards, but the ULi is quirky to put it mildly. But it controls a lot more too, like the pcie cards, usb, etc.etc Basically everything runs through it.

And well I've found an 80GB IDE ultra 100 HDD for $35, so I just went ahead and got it. Installing service pack 2 as we "speak". 
They had a raid controller there for the same price. But now I've got enough parts to make yet another rig.








Now if I could only find another NB cooler that would fit under a GPU







And 2 more good folding GPUs' that I could power off of a 500w PSU, I'd be golden. Then I'd be contributing ~20k PPD.









PS: Im also trying something new. Im not installing any ULI drivers, lets see what happens


----------



## Blitz6804

20k? What the heck? Even if everything worked perfectly (two GPU clients, one SMP client) I would only be about 11k. But, I cannot run [email protected] on GPU0 at all; it flatly refuses to run. [email protected] SERIOUSLY hates ATi cards.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


20k? What the heck? Even if everything worked perfectly (two GPU clients, one SMP client) I would only be about 11k. But, I cannot run [email protected] on GPU0 at all; it flatly refuses to run. [email protected] SERIOUSLY hates ATi cards.


If you want to use a GPU for folding for points, perhaps you can try an nVidia card...


----------



## Blitz6804

I could, but for me, gaming is the priority, [email protected] is ancillary. It would just be nice if the performance in [email protected] was commensurate to the performance in games is all. Oh, and I wish GPU0 would fold!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


And well I've found an 80GB IDE ultra 100 HDD for $35, so I just went ahead and got it. Installing service pack 2 as we "speak".


BlackOmega, right on buddy. That price looks about right for a 80GB IDE drive. Hope it works out. I had some RAID woes a couple of weeks ago while using the Nvidia Mediashield controller. Needless to say I didn't have much luck with 2x80GB IDE drives in either Raid 0 or 1. I eventually went with a controller but then that thing (Promise) took a dump









Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I hope all this talk of RAID misadventures does not foreshadow troubles when I go RAIDing for the first time.

And the time for that grows near... Certain confidants here are aware just how far along some of my projects are.


----------



## Blitz6804

I'm certainly not Joe... you have not updated your W/C thread in forever.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I'm certainly not Joe... you have not updated your W/C thread in forever.

That project is second in line, or third.

What I will disclose, though, is that the case is out for mods right now. The modifications are not yet finalized as of yet, which means the cuts have yet to be made. But the concepts are fairly solidified and are just subject to confirmation and execution.

More pressing for me is what is likely the last air-cooled overclocked machine I'll build. This build is progressing very nicely (and it provided highly-valued lessons in the mods made on this build's case which are being applied to the water-cooled project). On the schedule tonight is the CPU + cooler mounting, then a motherboard mock-up _in situ_ in the case.

Two tidbits about this build (dubbed "Darth Raivo"): It has a decapitated Opteron 170, and it will have a RAID0 array.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, I sent my case out for mods too. I am all thumbs, and so for me to try to work on it is humorous. (We see this with my Xaser V.)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

To be honest, if I had the tools, I would have attempted to do the mods myself. However, I misplaced my Dremel, so I am deprived of a learning experience.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
To be honest, if I had the tools, I would have attempted to do the mods myself. However, I misplaced my Dremel, so I am deprived of a learning experience.









A man should never misplace his dremel. Its up there with Ducktape in being the single most useful thing you'll ever own.

I have an older 1200 RPM corded dremel, from late 80's early 90's. Still works like a charm, had the motor replaced by Dremel once. Its just a great piece to have around the house.

More so that I can fleabay for the older parts, since people want the newer 5000 RPM ones.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
A man should never misplace his dremel. Its up there with Ducktape in being the single most useful thing you'll ever own.

I have an older 1200 RPM corded dremel, from late 80's early 90's. Still works like a charm, had the motor replaced by Dremel once. Its just a great piece to have around the house.

More so that I can fleabay for the older parts, since people want the newer 5000 RPM ones.

I've got a fairly good idea where it is, actually: Coquitlam, British Columbia, Canada. I lent it to my brother-in-law many months ago, but he has an unfortunate habit of forgetting to return borrowed items.









Nevertheless, you are right, TT. Dremels are sweet.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I've got a fairly good idea where it is, actually: Coquitlam, British Columbia, Canada. I lent it to my brother-in-law many months ago, but he has an unfortunate habit of forgetting to return borrowed items.









Nevertheless, you are right, TT. Dremels are sweet.










I could help you plan and mount a rescue operation?









Skt 939 Style


----------



## Blitz6804

Sorry Joe, I am of no help to you. Even though I am less than 20 minutes from the Canadian border, British Columbia is a good 2600 miles (4160 Km) away.


----------



## nategr8ns

Speaking of modding, I'm trying to figure out what kind of standoffs to use on P:RiaGH. I don't want the motherboard to hang too far off and crack the side panel (where it's mounted), but I want to be able to fit some wires behind it.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Aren't standoffs a standardized height?


----------



## nategr8ns

That's the problem







.
The back panel won't line up unless the right standoff size is used, so once I pick a size I'm stuck with it.


----------



## Blitz6804

Joe: No, they are not. You can get standoffs in various heights, in two different diameters. As far as I recall, Lian Li scoffs at the "industry standard" diameter.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


20k? What the heck? Even if everything worked perfectly (two GPU clients, one SMP client) I would only be about 11k. But, I cannot run [email protected] on GPU0 at all; it flatly refuses to run. [email protected] SERIOUSLY hates ATi cards.


 Well for folding rig 1 it would be 2 GPUs' and from what I gather I should be able to run 2 smp clients on a dual core. I could be wrong on the SMP thing though.
But in regards to the 20k PPD, that figure would be if I could get another 2 cards to fold on my other Ultra-D board. If I could get 2 single slot or 2 dual slot cards with out the top heatsink, like my GSOs', so that would be a total PPD. OR........ if I could get 2 GX2's then I'd be golden. The cards alone would pump out ~22K PPD, add at least 1 smp client then it would be 22.1K









As for ATi folding, I dont even bother. My 4870 gets about the same PPD as 1 of my GSOs', considering how much more energy it uses and heat it produces, no thanks. I'll reserve that card for strictly gaming, unless stanford decides to put out a _good_ client for the ATi cards.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, right on buddy. That price looks about right for a 80GB IDE drive. Hope it works out. I had some RAID woes a couple of weeks ago while using the Nvidia Mediashield controller. Needless to say I didn't have much luck with 2x80GB IDE drives in either Raid 0 or 1. I eventually went with a controller but then that thing (Promise) took a dump









Good luck


 Doh I hate it when hardware takes a :turd:. So far this HDD seems to be working out. Although, I haven't installed the [email protected] clients yet. I had to go to my anatomy class. I didn't realize that we'd actually be dissecting a cadaver. I don't think anyone else in my class did either. When they brought it up everyone was like














. After seeing that, I don't think I'll be donating my body to science.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I hope all this talk of RAID misadventures does not foreshadow troubles when I go RAIDing for the first time.

And the time for that grows near... Certain confidants here are aware just how far along some of my projects are.










Joe which board are you planning on RAIDing? If it indeed is the CFX3200, I'd highly recommend just going with the Sil controller. You could try the ULi but don't be surprised when it starts locking up on you for no apparent reason.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, you are mistaken. You have the option to run 2 CPU clients, one per core, or one SMP client, which uses up to four threads. On a dual-core processor, it runs two instances per core. On a quad-core processor, it uses one instance per core. My laptop pulls in a maximum of 1900 PPD in SMP, but more typically, around 1000 PPD.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Yeah, you are mistaken. You have the option to run 2 CPU clients, one per core, or one SMP client, which uses up to four threads. On a dual-core processor, it runs two instances per core. On a quad-core processor, it uses one instance per core. My laptop pulls in a maximum of 1900 PPD in SMP, but more typically, around 1000 PPD.


 Thats not a bad increase. I'll have to look in to the SMP client thing. I believe you have to d/l some sort of library and all. I'm sure I'll find out all that soon enough.

On a side note I just ran HDtach on this new drive and I am peasantly surprised by it. I ran the short test and here are the results 91.4MB/s burst, 61.2 MB/s average. So all in all that is not bad. It actually did better than my WD2500KS Sata drive. That one averages in the mid to low 50's.


----------



## Blitz6804

Nope... download the zip. Unpack. Run Install.bat. Run [email protected] and config. You are all set.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Heh, I'd been telling everyone how flaky that CFX3200's ULi chipset is forever.









It seems that the only way most people run the CFX3200 with any modicum of stability is to eschew the ULi SATA ports and run RAID on the SiI controller. Either that, or run a SATA controller card.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Heh, I'd been telling everyone how flaky that CFX3200's ULi chipset is forever.









It seems that the only way most people run the CFX3200 with any modicum of stability is to eschew the ULi SATA ports and run RAID on the SiI controller. Either that, or run a SATA controller card.

Very true. But what really gets me is the inconsistency of the failure. It makes no sense that it would work just fine for a relatively long time (hours) then stop working. And consistently not work.









I'm starting to wonder if this is a temperature issue. Now that I think back, after it BSOD'd and kept on crashing I had left it off for a while. Then when I went back to use it, it worked fine for hours then started crashing again. Too bad theres no way of monitoring SB temps.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Very true. But what really gets me is the inconsistency of the failure. It makes no sense that it would work just fine for a relatively long time (hours) then stop working. And consistently not work.









I'm starting to wonder if this is a temperature issue. Now that I think back, after it BSOD'd and kept on crashing I had left it off for a while. Then when I went back to use it, it worked fine for hours then started crashing again. Too bad theres no way of monitoring SB temps.










Have a small fan sit on it blowing air, or maybe get a Extreme Spirit II.

Obviously the later is the fancy way of doing things.

But direct air flow could answer that question of yours.

IIRC, the chipset for the SB of that board is large though. So that could explain your issues.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Have a small fan sit on it blowing air, or maybe get a Extreme Spirit II.

Obviously the later is the fancy way of doing things.

But direct air flow could answer that question of yours.

IIRC, the chipset for the SB of that board is large though. So that could explain your issues.


Here ya go. 
http://www.thermaltakestore.com/index.html

Browse around - You should find something that can help. The Extreme Spirit II is also cheaper than you'd expect.

EDIT: 
The Extreme Spirit II is listed as being "Sold Out" but there are still some items you may find useful such as controllers, cases, water blocks, ect.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Have a small fan sit on it blowing air, or maybe get a Extreme Spirit II.

Obviously the later is the fancy way of doing things.

But direct air flow could answer that question of yours.

IIRC, the chipset for the SB of that board is large though. So that could explain your issues.


 Thats a good idea tator. I think next time I mess with it I'll just pull the whole board out and reseat the cooler with some good TIM like ICD7 or OCZ freeze. Then I figure out a good way to mount a fan towards it. Or possibly some sort of active cooling similar to a NB fan. Man I'd really like to be able to monitor the temps of it though.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Here ya go. 
http://www.thermaltakestore.com/index.html

Browse around - You should find something that can help. The Extreme Spirit II is also cheaper than you'd expect.

EDIT: 
The Extreme Spirit II is listed as being "Sold Out" but there are still some items you may find useful such as controllers, cases, water blocks, ect.


 Thanks Kryton.









But I've decided to just run an IDE HDD. Since the folding rig is going to do nothing but fold I'm not too worried about performance.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Thats a good idea tator. I think next time I mess with it I'll just pull the whole board out and reseat the cooler with some good TIM like ICD7 or OCZ freeze. Then I figure out a good way to mount a fan towards it. Or possibly some sort of active cooling similar to a NB fan. Man I'd really like to be able to monitor the temps of it though.

IIRC, they make a thermal monitor that goes into a 5.25 bay.

Its basically really long wires that you run to the spot you want monitor, clip it on, and then you just look at the front of your tower.

You can program the LCD on it so it says "South Bridge" intstead of "Temp 1"
Or "Memory" instead of "Temp 2"

though, I haven't seen this in a good year and a half. But if I dig up the link, I'll PM it to you.

It looked really nice, but I remember it being crazy in price, like the 7" LCD screens for the Thermaltake Lanbox.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


IIRC, they make a thermal monitor that goes into a 5.25 bay.

Its basically really long wires that you run to the spot you want monitor, clip it on, and then you just look at the front of your tower.

You can program the LCD on it so it says "South Bridge" intstead of "Temp 1" 
Or "Memory" instead of "Temp 2"

though, I haven't seen this in a good year and a half. But if I dig up the link, I'll PM it to you.

It looked really nice, but I remember it being crazy in price, like the 7" LCD screens for the Thermaltake Lanbox.


 Let me know if you find anything. Im kind of cheap though, I wonder if there is a cost effective way of monitoring temps









On a side note I finally got around to messing with my sig rig and ran HDtach just to see the difference between the nvidia controller (SATAII) and the Silicon image controller (SATA I) and well the results are very nice. Burst speed almost doubled, although average is only about 19MB/s faster. Heres a SS.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


On a side note I finally got around to messing with my sig rig and ran HDtach just to see the difference between the nvidia controller (SATAII) and the Silicon image controller (SATA I) and well the results are very nice. Burst speed almost doubled, although average is only about 19MB/s faster. Heres a SS.


BlackOmega, nice numbers man. At first I thought that was just one drive until I saw the "stripe" part. You sure did max that bus out though









Good luck


----------



## nategr8ns

I'm going to set up my old 939 parts (MSI board, 2x512mb Corsair VS, 3800+) as another computer. My dad will speed test between that and his Pentium 4 3.4ghz w/2x512mb of DDR2 Ballstix.

I'd also like to try overclocking with my DFI again. Last time it was too complicated and I just haven't had time to play with it. Which settings in which menus do I want for the RAM multiplier and HT multiplier?


----------



## HothBase

I just have a quick question here








Is AMD's Dual-Core Optimizer still needed after XP's SP3?


----------



## Blitz6804

I do not know if it is NEEDED, but I have never not had on it on an XP system.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, nice numbers man. At first I thought that was just one drive until I saw the "stripe" part. You sure did max that bus out though









Good luck

Thanks







, I'm going to mess around with defragging and such to see if it'll improve at all.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
I'm going to set up my old 939 parts (MSI board, 2x512mb Corsair VS, 3800+) as another computer. My dad will speed test between that and his Pentium 4 3.4ghz w/2x512mb of DDR2 Ballstix.

I'd also like to try overclocking with my DFI again. Last time it was too complicated and I just haven't had time to play with it. Which settings in which menus do I want for the RAM multiplier and HT multiplier?

That P4 is about to be owned hard







, you should be able to get that 3800+ to ~2.8 fairly easily.

As for the menu, all your reference clock, HT mult. and voltage settings are going to be in the Genie BIOS sub-menu, top of the right column in the main BIOS screen. To get to your RAM settings, once you're in the Genie BIOS sub-menu, the very top option will say RAM speed or something, hit enter there and it'll take you to the dividers and timings.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
I just have a quick question here








Is AMD's Dual-Core Optimizer still needed after XP's SP3?

Like Blitz said, I don't think its actually ever needed. But I'd highly recommend having it installed. It coordinates something about the clock cycles, if I'm not mistaken. I know without it, certain games like COD2 don't work properly. It causes internal game errors. I've only noticed the errors in single player modes of games.


----------



## nategr8ns

Thanks BO
+


----------



## Blitz6804

The Dual Core Optimizer prevents the "Benny Hill" effect. This will occur on some single-threaded applications being run on a dual-core processor as a result of the core inexplicably changing load to match the other, inactive core.

nategr8ns: Remember that a 3800+ is supposed to rival a P4 HT @ 3.8 GHz. With a 3800+, even at stock, going against a 3.2 GHz P4 sans HT, we would predict a slaughter as BlackOmega suggested. I have a P4 sans HT @ 3.0 GHz. My Barton 2500+ at 1852 MHz gives it a run for its money. This is probably the fault of the Pentium's RDRAM, but that is unfixable without changing the motherboard, an unneeded and unwarranted (and flat-out wasteful) expense.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


The Dual Core Optimizer prevents the "Benny Hill" effect. This will occur on some single-threaded applications being run on a dual-core processor as a result of the core inexplicably changing load to match the other, inactive core.

nategr8ns: Remember that a 3800+ is supposed to rival a P4 HT @ 3.8 GHz. With a 3800+, even at stock, going against a 3.2 GHz P4 sans HT, we would predict a slaughter as BlackOmega suggested. I have a P4 sans HT @ 3.0 GHz. My Barton 2500+ at 1852 MHz gives it a run for its money. This is probably the fault of the Pentium's RDRAM, but that is unfixable without changing the motherboard, an unneeded and unwarranted (and flat-out wasteful) expense.



Even with DDR RAM, the Athlon XP 3200+ flat out trashes any Pentium 4 on the market. HT or Not.

More so, that Pentium 4 CPU's got worse as they went on.

Out of all the Netburst chips, the Northwoods are the best. Even with their lower cache, they still performed better clock for clock against other Pentium 4s.

The reason being, is they did more calculations per cycle.

With the other pentium 4's, they lowered the calculations per cycle, so they could up the bus speed & cache.

Which gave little to no performance gains at all.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


I just have a quick question here








Is AMD's Dual-Core Optimizer still needed after XP's SP3?


No, not really. And it was never really "needed."

It did allow for some bug fixes in single threaded apps/games/whatever. But most of that is long gone in any modern app.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I actually have one game in my collection which still needs the dual-core optimizer in XP: Madden NFL 2008. Once in a blue moon, the dual-core optimizer actually deactivates itself for some reason, and I get the "Benny Hill" effect whilst playing this game.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
Thanks BO
+









No problem Nate







. I just remembered something that you might need to know. If you're going to try upping the voltage, use the VID special control. When you go in there you'll notice everything is in %'s. This is the most effective way of changing it unless you need to go to a ridiculously high voltge like 1.70 and above. The Default voltage (on both of my NF4 boards anyway) is 1.31v. So if you want to up the voltage 4.3% (104.3 in the menu) calculate like 1.31 x 1.043= 1.366 and so on.

Good luck









EDIT:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
The Dual Core Optimizer prevents the "Benny Hill" effect. This will occur on some single-threaded applications being run on a dual-core processor as a result of the core inexplicably changing load to match the other, inactive core.

nategr8ns: Remember that a 3800+ is supposed to rival a P4 HT @ 3.8 GHz. With a 3800+, even at stock, going against a 3.2 GHz P4 sans HT, we would predict a slaughter as BlackOmega suggested. I have a P4 sans HT @ 3.0 GHz. My Barton 2500+ at 1852 MHz gives it a run for its money. *This is probably the fault of the Pentium's RDRAM, but that is unfixable without changing the motherboard, an unneeded and unwarranted (and flat-out wasteful) expense.*

I thought it was more due to the FSB limitation. The 423 pin P4 with RDRAM Dell that I still have (folks are using it) had a pathetically slow 100MHz FSB. I remember that when I was comparing the 939 chips to them, the 939's actually had about 20x the amount of throughput per clock cycle of the Pentiums.
And RDRAM, IMO, is actually very good (for when it was created). But rambus right along with intel screwed that one up by trying to monopolize the market. From what I remember the RDRAM actually had over double the performance of SDRAM and IIRC it even outbandwidthed DDR ever so slightly. Could be wrong on that though.


----------



## nategr8ns

how do you tell the difference between RDRAM and SDRAM? I may just not have any RDRAM systems lying around, but I don't think I've seen an RDRAM stick.


----------



## HothBase

Thanks for the answers, guys.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


how do you tell the difference between RDRAM and SDRAM? I may just not have any RDRAM systems lying around, but I don't think I've seen an RDRAM stick.


 RDRAM has 2 keyed notches that are close together









SDRAM has 2 keyed notches far apart









If you need more RDRAM, I have 2 128 sticks laying around.


----------



## nategr8ns

Ah, nope, no RDRAM in my house. I don't even have any RDRAM motherboards so I won't need to steal your 2x128s







.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Ah, nope, no RDRAM in my house. I don't even have any RDRAM motherboards so I won't need to steal your 2x128s







.


 Cool, as far as I know only the 423 pin P4's used it. Come to think of it I also have a 423 1.8 CPU laying around too


----------



## Blitz6804

A few 478 pin boards also used it, but not many. You can also get a 423 daughter board that permits you to insert a 478 CPU into the socket. The problem is, while a 478 CPU is as little as $1, the daughterboard is $35. I could not justify spending $36 on it, not to mention that it also has 2x128 MB of RDR. Maybe 2x256 MB. In any event, it is a very bad system.


----------



## thlnk3r

I had a S478 P4 1.8 and honestly I never really noticed the difference between the Willamette and the Northwood 3Ghz. All I can remember was when I went from the Northy 3Ghz to a Opteron 146 I was completely blown away by the performance difference


----------



## Blitz6804

The P4 I got was second hand; I personally have never built an Intel System. I have built Slot A, Socket A, 939, AM2, and AM2+... but never Intel. Truth be told, when my dad got this P4, I was substantially underwhelmed; my XP 3200+ put it to shame. On the other hand, he had the better graphics card. So my computer opened Windows and programs much faster, but games never looked as nice.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


I had a S478 P4 1.8 and honestly I never really noticed the difference between the Willamette and the Northwood 3Ghz. All I can remember was when I went from the Northy 3Ghz to a Opteron 146 I was completely blown away by the performance difference











I think the difference was mostly the socket change. IE from S473 (willamette) to S478 (Northwood, Prescott, Ceader Mill)

Though, I might be wrong. But I think Northwood did 1 or 2 more calculations per clock than Willamette.

Again, I might be wrong, its been awhile since I looked at that.

Either way, my 2.66ghz Northwood @ 3.8-4.0 was a tank in most single threaded apps.

But it took that to keep up with an Athlon XP 3200+ @ 2.4...

I mean...it litterally took double the clock speed.

Which is why I wish I would have not fallen for the hype of the time. But I was young. And had no internet.


----------



## BlackOmega

The 423 pin P4 I had was probably the worst multitasking machine I have ever used. It would take forever to switch to the desktop while in game or whatever. Granted if you only ran that 1 app. it didn't fair badly.
I used it not too long ago and it still shocks me at how ridiculously slow it is in comparison to my 3500+ @ stock clocks.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Let me know if you find anything. Im kind of cheap though, I wonder if there is a cost effective way of monitoring temps










I found something like i was talking about, From Rexus.

I'm not sure how it operates but take a look here, 2 temp monitors for 13$


----------



## Blitz6804

I personally have recently started using a Scythe Kaze Server. (It is like a Scythe Kaze Master, but with a button to turn off the display.) For $45, you get four rheostats up to 1 A, and four thermal probes. You can have the fan speeds set automatically (you set temperature for maximum RPM; it does the rest), semi-automatically (you set up the temperature for maximum RPM and the minimum permissible RPM; it does the rest), and manually.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I personally have recently started using a Scythe Kaze Server. (It is like a Scythe Kaze Master, but with a button to turn off the display.) For $45, you get four rheostats up to 1 A, and four thermal probes. You can have the fan speeds set automatically (you set temperature for maximum RPM; it does the rest), semi-automatically (you set up the temperature for maximum RPM and the minimum permissible RPM; it does the rest), and manually.

That thing is pretty.

But the 1 Amp per channel is a little weak.

The other features are nice.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
The 423 pin P4 I had was probably the worst multitasking machine I have ever used. It would take forever to switch to the desktop while in game or whatever. Granted if you only ran that 1 app. it didn't fair badly.
I used it not too long ago and it still shocks me at how ridiculously slow it is in comparison to my 3500+ @ stock clocks.

Wasn't there like no difference at all with a P3 versus a S423 (performance wise)? I think that was the joke back in the day.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Wasn't there like no difference at all with a P3 versus a S423 (performance wise)? I think that was the joke back in the day.

Pentium III actually works better clock for clock than Pentium 4.

It was more evident at the time with Pentium 4 Socket 473.

As a 1.8ghz Pentium 4 was out done in almost every bench by a 1.0ghz Pentium III.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Pentium III actually works better clock for clock than Pentium 4.

It was more evident at the time with Pentium 4 Socket 473.

As a 1.8ghz Pentium 4 was out done in almost every bench by a 1.0ghz Pentium III.


It also didn't help that AMD's Socket A platform turned out to be a real winner. It actually took Intel several socket revisions to finally win out over Socket A and unlike alot have done with these Intels, alot of us still bench with them. I haven't seen much of anything coming from Intel systems of that era over the last few years but you still see Socket A's throwing down today and more readily than you would think.
Don't get me wrong here - There's still a few out there benching but by the numbers of what I've seen, the Socket A is dominant over these Intel chips.

I do have a PIII 933 MHz chip here in an old Gateway E3400 machine that's just sitting around. The machine works and maybe I'll find a OC'ing board for this chip for kicks one day.


----------



## thlnk3r

Kryton, I think I still have a few of those. Let me know and I can mail them to you.

Remember the tualatin core


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Wasn't there like no difference at all with a P3 versus a S423 (performance wise)? I think that was the joke back in the day.

No not really. My friend back in the day had a dual socket PIII board with 2 1.0ghz P3's. His machine multitasked better than my 423 pin, but load times were similar. And he even had 256K more RAM than I did. Considering I had 256 and he had 512 thats a considerable jump.
I also noticed that back in the day windows ME actually played games the best out of win,95,98 or even 2000. But it was soo freakin unstable and would crash A LOT. But when it worked, there was no comparison.


----------



## Blitz6804

Of the Windows 4 generation, I believe Win95 was the best. Win95 was better than Win 3.1, and is in turn beaten by Windows 5, id est, Windows Experience or Windows XP. Windows 6, id est, Windows Vista, in my opinion is a toss up. There are some nice things and some bad things. If you do not need a 64-bit OS, keep XP. If you need a 64-bit OS and you cannot get XP Pro x64, then go Vista. Else, wait on Windows 7. (Any idea if it is going to be released under Vienna as originally planned?)


----------



## Tator Tot

Hey, Black Omega, did you see my previous post about the cheap temp monitor, that we were talking about earlier?

Also, my dual Socket A, Athlon XP3200+ server box was for the win...

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Windows 7. (Any idea if it is going to be released under Vienna as originally planned?)

Windows 7 is supposed to drop "this fall"

Most speculation, and something from Acer reported that to be September IIRC.


----------



## Blitz6804

The last I heard, it was being released holiday season 2009. The question was the name: Is it going to be released under the old name of Windows Vienna, the RC name of Windows 7, or something else entirely?


----------



## Tator Tot

I think it'll go under Windows 7. But they have not officially said. But by the reception of many, and it being known as 7, they'll go with that.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Hey, Black Omega, did you see my previous post about the cheap temp monitor, that we were talking about earlier?

Also, my dual Socket A, Athlon XP3200+ server box was for the win...

I did tator, sorry I didn't reply I had to run really quickly. Thanks for finding that though, I'm going to see if I can find any more specific information about it like how it attaches and whatnot.

Thanks again man


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I did tator, sorry I didn't reply I had to run really quickly. Thanks for finding that though, I'm going to see if I can find any more specific information about it like how it attaches and whatnot.

Thanks again man









If you look at the pictures.

Their are two cables with little brown plastic tabs, you just tape those to, or slip them under what you want measured.

And those monitor the temps.

The Apevia X-Qpack, & X-Master cases have small LCDs in the front that have those temp monitor wires attached to them, so you can measure you're CPU temp.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah; like most temperature sensors, you power it with a floppy connector, and then tape the probes with the included double-sided tape to what you want monitored. Some people will attach one to the side of the IHS. I personally have mine right now sitting in the middle of the duct going from the outside of the case to the CPU fan; this will give me a real-time look at case ambient whenever I want it. Since mine has the ability to control fan speed in relation to temperatures, I have the thermometers near their respective fans. For example, another thermometer is next to the hard drive.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Of the Windows 4 generation, I believe Win95 was the best.


Blitz, I always thought out of the 4.x generation that Windows 98SE was the better of the four. I can't really say Win98SE was stable all the time though. I had to do a reformat at least once a Month









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


But by the reception of many, and it being known as 7, they'll go with that.


Tator, I agree. I can't imagine any other reason why Microsoft would not use "Windows 7". I'll wait for the first service pack before purchasing the OS.

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Question: When does one "need" 64-bit computing at the present time? I ask not to be provocative, but only because I'm in a state of complete ignorance right now. I've never run a 64-bit OS, have never run any application that requires a 64-bit OS, nor have bought any flavor of 64-bit OS.









I'm with thlnk3r vis-a-vis Windows 7. I will admit, though, that this is the first and only Windows OS that I am actually excited about. Hopefully it's fairly solid out of the box, and so won't require a Service Pack update from the outset (i.e., be in desperate need of dramatic improvements due to a flawed initial release). I'm thinking about moving on from S939 no earlier than May 2010, and if Windows 7 is a must-have OS, that will be the OS of choice for my first post-S939 machine.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Question: When does one "need" 64-bit computing at the present time? I ask not to be provocative, but only because I'm in a state of complete ignorance right now. I've never run a 64-bit OS, have never run any application that requires a 64-bit OS, nor have bought any flavor of 64-bit OS.


Joe, I think the justification/reasoning for a 64-bit OS is purely on the user end. I see no need for it at this time.

Who here running 64-bit XP/Vista is running any 64-bit applications? Whats the performance like?

Thanks


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Joe, I think the justification/reasoning for a 64-bit OS is purely on the user end. I see no need for it at this time.

Who here running 64-bit XP/Vista is running any 64-bit applications? Whats the performance like?

Thanks










The pure and simple, is 64 bit apps that I run (Maya, 3DsMAx, & Adobe CS4) get an easier and better path to using the amount of RAM they use.

Some 32bit apps, by the way they are coded, can only use up to 4GB of RAM. But when you run their 64bit counter part, they can use up to 128GB (I think that's the 64bit limit...not 100% sure.) And in the case of Maya, 3DsMax, & Adobe CS4; the performance increase is stellar.

The programs load up faster, they render quicker. And you can store more data in the RAM instead of having to use your Page File. Which equates to quicker access time.

FYI, most 64bit Window's apps come in *.msi* installers, instead of *.exe*.

But more or less, it comes down the ability to better utilize your RAM. And Multi-task.

Some people say that 64bit Vista is more stable than 32bit, and from running both on the same hardware, I can say that I got a higher stable OC in Vista 64bit. (Not higher than XP 32bit) And had a better user experience.

Though, I am currently on Windows XP 32bit, because of some issues I was having with Vista & Hardware.

My current temporary NIC doesn't have "official" drivers for Vista, thus I'm using some user made ones.

The reason I'm using such an old NIC is because my board's NICs went bad.

Long story made short, I rolled back to XP 32bit. While I loose obvious performance in some Apps, its not enough to warrent my computer having driver related crashes while on the internet sometimes.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Question: When does one "need" 64-bit computing at the present time? I ask not to be provocative, but only because I'm in a state of complete ignorance right now. I've never run a 64-bit OS, have never run any application that requires a 64-bit OS, nor have bought any flavor of 64-bit OS.









I don't think that at the moment there is a need for a 64 bit OS unless you're doing 3D rendering like tator .
I would probably use a 64bit OS if it was given to me. But I'm not in any rush to go out and buy one. Once games become 64 bit required, I'll probably switch.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
The pure and simple, is 64 bit apps that I run (Maya, 3DsMAx, & Adobe CS4) get an easier and better path to using the amount of RAM they use.

Some 32bit apps, by the way they are coded, can only use up to 4GB of RAM. But when you run their 64bit counter part, they can use up to 128GB (I think that's the 64bit limit...not 100% sure.) And in the case of Maya, 3DsMax, & Adobe CS4; the performance increase is stellar.

That friend of mine that had the dual P3 machine used to use Maya and 3Dstudio max. I recall some of his models would take 24 hours to render on that machine









And I do recall reading that the 64 bit OS's can utilize up to 128GB RAM.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Though, I am currently on Windows XP 32bit, because of some issues I was having with Vista & Hardware.

Long story made short, I rolled back to XP 32bit. While I loose obvious performance in some Apps, its not enough to warrent my computer having driver related crashes while on the internet sometimes.

This is exactly the reason why I'm not in any rush to go out and get Vista.

Xp does what I need it to and best of all it was free. (given to me)


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
That friend of mine that had the dual P3 machine used to use Maya and 3Dstudio max. I recall some of his models would take 24 hours to render on that machine









That would be more related to CPU most likely, and not RAM. Because I'm considering he atleast used 2gb of RAM.

If not...well...I need to do unspeakable things to that man.


----------



## Blitz6804

If I remember right, under Vista x64, 32-bit applications can use a maximum of 2 GB of memory; 64-bit applications have a substantially higher amount. Very few of the applications I use ARE 64-bit.

However, the big thing is RAM. With my Toledo and an HD 3850, I could run x86 no problem; I had access to about 3.5 GB of RAM. (3.25 GB with the PCI-E flavor.) However, as the graphics card uses more RAM, you have less system RAM available. Unless I am mistaken, my present sig rig would get only 1.75 GB to play with in a 32-bit operating system.

Now, this may or may not be a problem. I know personally, in a 32-bit OS, I use upwards of 3 GB of memory, so that would be a problem. Note though, in a 64-bit OS I use upwards of 4 GB of memory. So really, if you need more RAM, got o 64-bit. But, you will use more RAM. Every single x86 program ran in x64 uses more memory. I have yet to find an exception to that yet. The x64-optimized programs tend to use less than the x86-optimized programs. Further, they sometimes work faster.

Also note that a downside of Vista, regardless of the number of bits in your flavor, cannot run 16-bit software. If you use 16-bit programs (which I do) you need to keep an XP rig around, dual boot, or run a virtual machine.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
The pure and simple, is 64 bit apps that I run (Maya, 3DsMAx, & Adobe CS4) get an easier and better path to using the amount of RAM they use.

Tator, right on man. You're the first person I've actually spoken to that utilizes the 64-bit OS. What kind of 3D Studio work do you do? Is it for pleasure or for work?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Some 32bit apps, by the way they are coded, can only use up to 4GB of RAM. But when you run their 64bit counter part, they can use up to 128GB (I think that's the 64bit limit...not 100% sure.

According to the Microsoft website, for virtual memory the max is 16 terabytes which is insane.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Xp does what I need it to and best of all it was free.

BlackOmega, same here buddy except my copy wasn't free









Good luck guys


----------



## nzbleach

dusted off the old Ultra-D today and fired it up with a 4000+ SD i've just bought. Installed windows 7 with the CPU @ 3ghz which im very happy about. Cant get the sound working in windows 7 however


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
However, as the graphics card uses more RAM, you have less system RAM available. Unless I am mistaken, my present sig rig would get only 1.75 GB to play with in a 32-bit operating system.

Blitz, that's kind of strange I've never noticed that with any of my systems when running 2GB of memory on Windows XP 32-bit


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Tator, right on man. You're the first person I've actually spoken to that utilizes the 64-bit OS. What kind of 3D Studio work do you do? Is it for pleasure or for work?

Pleasure, Work, & School. I do stuff for small time websites, and some people based on commission.

I am going to take some 3D design classes in the fall.

And I generally enjoy doing it. I've already done some game mod work for UT 2k4 (project fell through sadly)

But I have always had fun designing case mods, and other stuff in Maya.

Or just busting out the old creativity, and "building a mech." As I am in general, a big fan of robots.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
According to the Microsoft website, for virtual memory the max is 16 terabytes which is insane.

That is virtual memory, the 128gb limit (I checked, its correct) is for physical memory.

Which currently, we are close to. With Quad Socket F boards.

As they can take up to 24gb of RAM per CPU. So in total (24x4) it would be 96gb's of RAM.

Which is close to the 128gb limit of the x86-64bit extension. But...its a long way off for desktop users. So we'll probably see 64bit around for a bit. (Considering its just coming into fruition now. )

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz, that's kind of strange I've never noticed that with any of my systems when running 2GB of memory Windows XP 32-bit









This is because, that subtraction only happens if you have 4GBs of RAM in the system.

You have more than enough extra space with 2GB of RAM.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
This is because, that subtraction only happens if you have 4GBs of RAM in the system.

You have more than enough extra space with 2GB of RAM.

Tator, ahhh that's right I forgot Blitz uses 4Gb of memory









Quote:


Originally Posted by *nzbleach* 
Cant get the sound working in windows 7 however

Nzbleach, have you tried grabbing the drivers from the Realtek website?

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Yo, props to y'alls who are laying down the education re: 64-bit OSes.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Yo, props to y'alls who are laying down the education re: 64-bit OSes.










Thank ye, thank ye.

But I owe it all to Microsoft. If they had not supplied me with the 64bit version of Vista for free, I would not know as much.

Also, if I would actually stop touching my computer, and let it be for a day, instead of trying to intentionally break it. I might not know as much as I do now.

Lesson of the day: Try and Break it, you'll learn as much from the breaking, as you do the fixing.


----------



## Blitz6804

Thlnk3r: I would not need to use 4 GB of memory to notice this. I could notice it with 2 GB if I wanted. Unless I am mistaken, the largest buffer you have ever had on a video card is 512 MB. This will preclude about 0.5-0.75 GB of RAM address space, although it will only be noticeable on a system with 4 GB of RAM. However, if you have an HD 4870x2 with 2 GB of buffer, or worse, tri GTX285 with 3 GB of buffer, you would be losing some RAM even on a 2-GB-equipped system. As I wanted both 4 GB of RAM and my HD 4870x2, I was obligated to go 64-bit.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
you would be losing some RAM even on a 2-GB-equipped system

Blitz, the question I'm trying to get to is why does this occur? Perhaps I'm just not understanding you.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, the question I'm trying to get to is why does this occur? Perhaps I'm just not understanding you.


Because 32bit OSes can only adress up to 4gb of RAM, and VRAM (Video RAM) takes priority over system RAM.

This originally sprung from older boards that had "Video Display Adapters" (They very first "GPUs") and boards with RAM already on them.

Basically, its the fault of old standards.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Because 32bit OSes can only address up to 4gb of RAM, and VRAM (Video RAM) takes priority over system RAM.

Tator, ahhh ok that explains it. I actually sort of already knew that but just wasn't too clear in my head *why*. So this particular issue *does not* happen in a 64-bit Windows environment?

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

It shouldn't because the OS can utilize more RAM at any one given time.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Tator, ahhh ok that explains it. I actually sort of already knew that but just wasn't too clear in my head *why*. So this particular issue *does not* happen in a 64-bit Windows environment?

Good luck

No, in 64bit you (as I stated before) are allowed up to 128gb of RAM.

So for a desktop class computer, you don't need more. And for servers, you'd bog down the IMC most likely, before you could actually make proper use of the RAM, even at DDR3 2ghz Cas 7

Though, I'm not clear if VRAM has priority in 64bit architecture. It would be something I would have to look in to.


----------



## Blitz6804

The 32-bit computer is limited to 4 GB of address space. (2^32 = 4,294,967,296 B = 4,096 MB = 4 GB.) If your address space is being used up by a sound card's memory, a video card's memory, a NIC's memory, whatever, you cannot use it for system RAM, which is lowest in priority for address space. This is what PAE is supposed to address. PAE is "36-bits," so in theory, it would have 64 GB of address space. This is how Windows Server 2003 can have up to 64 GB of memory even though it is a 32-bit operating system. 64-bit operating systems have a theoretical maximum of 16 EB. (Exabytes; equal to 16,777,216 TB.)

Sorry; I did not notice people posted above me; I've been refreshing less often than usual.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
The 32-bit computer is limited to 4 GB of address space. (2^32 = 4,294,967,296 B = 4,096 MB = 4 GB.) If your address space is being used up by a sound card's memory, a video card's memory, a NIC's memory, whatever, you cannot use it for system RAM, which is lowest in priority for address space. This is what PAE is supposed to address. PAE is "36-bits," so in theory, it would have 64 GB of address space. This is how Windows Server 2003 can have up to 64 GB of memory even though it is a 32-bit operating system. 64-bit operating systems have a theoretical maximum of 16 EB. (Exabytes; equal to 16,777,216 TB.)

Blitz, good explanation.

For Win2k8 64-bit, the "physical" limit I think is just 2TB. I only know this because we started deploying the OS with our MSDN package at work for testing. Standard and Web Server are limited to 32GB, the rest is 2TB. Pretty crazy. It's funny we keep talking about the 64-bit OS...you guys would be surprised on how many huge businesses and corporations out there that are still using legacy software









Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz, good explanation.

For Win2k8 64-bit, the "physical" limit I think is just 2TB. I only know this because we started deploying the OS with our MSDN package at work for testing. Standard and Web Server are limited to 32GB, the rest is 2TB. Pretty crazy. It's funny we keep talking about 64-bit OS...*you guys would be surprised on how many huge business/corps still use legacy software*









Good luck

I for one am not.

Corporate environments tend to be very conservative in terms of allocating budgets for tech. The reason?

"If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

I believe this, more than anything, is the biggest reason so many (if not a good majority) of corporate IT environments have completely given Vista a pass. Think about it: Why spend money to replace something that works well enough for you? Whatever advances and improvements Vista may have over WinXP, IT divisions and departments don't want to go through the expense (in terms of finances as well as in man-hours spent on installing new OSes and software, not to mention the inevitable de-bugging that has to go on) when they don't have to.


----------



## Blitz6804

I, for another, am not. Several of the jobs I worked for still ran some flavor of DOS, be it 5 or 6.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I, for another, am not. Several of the jobs I worked for still ran some flavor of DOS, be it 5 or 6.

Blitz, ok that is just silly. Those users are still using the command base for what reason?


----------



## Blitz6804

1) To save money in hardware
2) To save money in retraining users in a new interface

That is my thinking anyway.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz, ok that is just silly. Those users are still using the command base for what reason?

The same reason some machines still pack Black & white pannels/screen in them.

They don't need more.

DOS can get a lot done. It just depends on what you want it to get done.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
It just depends on what you want it to get done.

Tator, exactly that is what I'm kind of wanting to know. What exactly are they doing that only requires DOS. Data entry perhaps? That is some hardcore legacy stuff


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
. It's funny we keep talking about the 64-bit OS...you guys would be surprised on how many huge businesses and corporations out there that are still using legacy software









Good luck

I'm not surprised either. When I was in the car dealership scene most of the invoicing and inventory lookup screens are basically a command prompt screen with a very basic user interface. The applications I used were ADP and Reynolds & Reynolds.
If the cataloging could be done through DOS I'm sure they'd do it that way too. But since there needs to be a visual aspect of part look up, it needs to be done on windows since that is usually proprietary to the company.
Also, there was even a third portion that had to be done on windows which was actually ordering stock. Whether it be parts or actual vehicles it is all done online now.

Aside from that, a lot of dealerships use really old hardware, so if they wanted to implement a 64Bit OS they'd need to purchase all new hardware.

The extent of what is done, can _easily_ be accomplished using a 32 bit OS.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Tator, exactly that is what I'm kind of wanting to know. What exactly are they doing that only requires DOS. Data entry perhaps? That is some hardcore legacy stuff









Mostly Raw data entry.

Like you would do on any old Dos machines back in the day (not sure if you're that old














)

99% of the time, its something simple. That could be done on a calculator, or with the power of most of our mobile phones.

And they've usually also had these machines for atleast 15 years now. And they were probably second hand at that time.

Though, good news for me, on commission, I got the Network setup at my local computer shop/lan party place.

They are now running 100% open source on the Network, and every machine is running a personal tweak of Windows XP. And specifically outfitted for gaming.

Though, you'd be surprised at what the machines are. They are pretty "legacy"


----------



## PinkPenguin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I for one am not.

Corporate environments tend to be very conservative in terms of allocating budgets for tech. The reason?

"If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

I believe this, more than anything, is the biggest reason so many (if not a good majority) of corporate IT environments have completely given Vista a pass. Think about it: Why spend money to replace something that works well enough for you? Whatever advances and improvements Vista may have over WinXP, IT divisions and departments don't want to go through the expense (in terms of finances as well as in man-hours spent on installing new OSes and software, not to mention the inevitable de-bugging that has to go on) when they don't have to.

Pretty much spot on, but there is one hugh reason you have missed...

End users!

Good people of OCN can use Vista as good as we can use XP etc, but having to retrain hundreds if not thousands of end users to learn the new OS is the biggest hurdle.

I work for a international sports retailer, with over 500 stores in 8 countries, and when the stores ring the support desk with issues half of them dont know how to turn the PC on (pressing the power button in the monitor doesnt reboot it...).

XP must be one of the longest and well established OS that is used not only it business but at home, so the end user all ready knows afew things about 'windows'.

Show them Vista, with its different look, icon locations etc and they have no idea.


----------



## Blitz6804

One of them used Lotus; the other used a proprietary software program that looked a bit like Windows 3.1, but was not.

"Legacy" is a shifting term. For example, since when has AGP 8x been Legacy? People still make cards for it!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


"Legacy" is a shifting term. For example, since when has AGP 8x been Legacy? People still make cards for it!


Blitz, yes and some places still refurbish scsi drives. I think it depends on where you work at. At my job, anything before LGA771 is considered "legacy". Perc 3/di...too old


----------



## Hueristic

Wow, I lose access for a day and get bust and BAM! you guys go nutz on my forte'!

Unfortunately I don't have time but later I'll try to put together a cohesive example for u guys.

BO's example Of ADP is The best! The environment for that is huge and tough for those not in the know to set up. Also Cobra is a great example.

edit: almost forgot Kronos, can't forget that.


----------



## JEmmaB

Just want to thank Joe for the Opty 165; it looks brand new, can't wait to test it this weekend.









Thanks a bunch Joe!!!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


BO's example Of ADP is The best! The environment for that is huge and tough for those not in the know to set up. Also Cobra is a great example.


Hueristic, we only have a few ADP users. Our environment is pretty small. Just one terminal server and one database for the etime and reportsmith data. Thankfully we're getting rid of ADP and going with something else soon









Quote:



Originally Posted by *JEmmaB*


Just want to thank Joe for the Opty 165; it looks brand new, can't wait to test it this weekend.









Thanks a bunch Joe!!!










JEmmaB, right on man congrats. Perhaps maybe you received a "golden opty 165" from Joe. The 170 I bought from him proved to be golden.

Good luck


----------



## nategr8ns

congats jemma! I expect an overclocking log soon







.


----------



## JEmmaB

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
JEmmaB, right on man congrats. Perhaps maybe you received a "golden opty 165" from Joe. The 170 I bought from him proved to be golden.

Good luck

Wow!!! Sure hope it's Golden; now I cant really wait until the weekend.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
congats jemma! I expect an overclocking log soon







.

Sure thing... I'll will definitely make a log, for my soon to be momentous o'c affair with my new Opty 185.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:

Hueristic, we only have a few ADP users. Our environment is pretty small. Just one terminal server and one database for the etime and reportsmith data. Thankfully we're getting rid of ADP and going with something else soon
Believe that when you see it.









We were told that for over 10 years.


----------



## N2Gaming

Wow, have you all lost your on toppic marbles?







Joking of course







All this talk about ADP & I'm like what is that. Any way nice to see you all again. I could not get on OCN for over 3 days. What is that all about? I though OCN was a gonner...


----------



## Blitz6804

There was apparently a DNS failure. (Id est, Domain Name System.) What this does is take the text URL (http://www.overclock.net) and convert it into an IP URL (http://xxx.yyy.zzz.abc) that your browser can understand. The problem broke OCN all around about three days ago. The East Coast got service back a few hours later whereas the West Coast took longer. Ways to avoid this: try another DNS (done by people like radodrill) or use a proxy (done by Pioneerisloud and DesertRat). Your DNS needs to be corrected by its DNS, which needs to be corrected by its DNS, all the way up the chain. I would gather there are more DNSes in the chain going to the west coast making them take longer.


----------



## Tator Tot

If you have your home network (or just computer if its hooked directly up to the modem) setup with OpenDNS, it took no time at all to have OCN back up.

Its just an option to enable.

Though, there are also ways to "dive" the network of DNS and pull the info that you need strait from the source, bypassing the rest.

Though, thats a more convoluted method.


----------



## BlackOmega

Well good day gentelmen. Seems as though I have a new issue with my sig rig. Most of the time when I go to power it up, it doesn't turn on. Let me be a little bit more specific.
Push the power button, fans spin up, the LED's on my 4870 turn on and stay on (they should turn off), then after a few seconds I can hear the HDDs' spin up, but it doesn't actually turn on, there's no video or anything.
Sometimes pushing and holding the power button will turn it off, sometimes it won't. Then I have to manually cycle the power switch on the PSU after that it usually turns on normally. Then once its on I can restart it as many times as I like with no issue.

Also, when it doesn't turn on fully the onboard power/reset buttons are not responsive.

Now I had this board folding before, so it had the 3500+, 4x512 HyperX, 1 WD 2500KS HDD, and a GSO. I was also using my squealing Antec, but that one never had any issues.
Here is the current state of the rig, as you all can see it's running @ all stock settings for the time being. Hell the RAM is even underclocked a little bit.

Also, I don't know if this matters or not but my current vcore bounces between 1.296-1.312.

Let me know what you guys think.


----------



## Blitz6804

How old is the CMOS (CR2032) battery?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


How old is the CMOS (CR2032) battery?


 Honestly, I don't know. Seeing as it's a Newsun battery, I'm going to assume that it is the original that came with the board. According to smartguardian it's sitting @ 3.05v. I do have a brand spanking new Duracell sitting here so I'll probably just pop that one in.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I was also using my squealing Antec, but that one never had any issues.


BlackOmega, have you tried swapping out the power supply for known working one to see if that provides any positive results? Did you ever get around to checking the rails on this Antec unit (idle and load)? Is this a TruePower? I know a lot of Antec power supplies were shipped with faulty capacitors a few years back.

Good luck


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


According to smartguardian it's sitting @ 3.05v.


BlackOmega, please measure the voltage with a multimeter. In this case software may not be as reliable


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, have you tried swapping out the power supply for known working one to see if that provides any positive results? Did you ever get around to checking the rails on this Antec unit (idle and load)? Is this a TruePower? I know a lot of Antec power supplies were shipped with faulty capacitors a few years back.

Good luck










 I never actually manually tested it with a voltmeter, (I know what you guys are going to say







), but according to the software monitors, all were relatively within spec. The only one that was showing low was the +12v @ 100% load on the Antec, it was showing 11.68v.

And this is a SmartPower 2.0 500w. I glanced over some of the reviews and it seems like a lot of people had failures with this PSU. But they were bought a lot later than mine. I got mine ~12/05.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, please measure the voltage with a multimeter. In this case software may not be as reliable










But my software says my 12v is at 10.23? That's completely reliable... >.>

Yeah, I would replace the battery first, since its easy.

If that doesn't change anything, then try the PSU.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, please measure the voltage with a multimeter. In this case software may not be as reliable










 Hey do you have that link to the how to guide. I had it bookmarked but after re-install all the bookmarks went away.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


And this is a SmartPower 2.0 500w. I glanced over some of the reviews and it seems like a lot of people had failures with this PSU. But they were bought a lot later than mine. I got mine ~12/05.


BlackOmega, here's a thread from AnandTech with some negative comments about the SmartPower line: http://forums.anandtech.com/messagev...readid=2237346. I'm starting to wonder if it's your power supply now. Maybe it was the SmartPower power supplies I was thinking of. I mean literally customers would receive the new units, plug them in and boom.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hey do you have that link to the how to guide. I had it bookmarked but after re-install all the bookmarks went away.










Here's the guide that I always suggest. I even follow this one from time to time: http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/guide...ing-guide.html.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


But my software says my 12v is at 10.23? That's completely reliable... >.>


Tator, didn't we already joke about this before haha


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, here's a thread from AnandTech with some negative comments about the SmartPower line: http://forums.anandtech.com/messagev...readid=2237346. I'm starting to wonder if it's your power supply now. Maybe it was the SmartPower power supplies I was thinking of. I mean literally customers would receive the new units, plug them in and boom.
Here's the guide that I always suggest. I even follow this one from time to time: http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/guide...ing-guide.html.


 Thanks thinker







. 
I guess I must've been a little unclear, the PSU that's in it now is the PCP&C 610w. I only mentioned the 500 Antec as it powered that particular board last. I had no power issues with the Antec and this board. It powered up and ran just fine all the time. 
Although lots of people seemed to have problems with it, other than the squealing which goes away once a +12v load is applied, I have no issues with it.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator, didn't we already joke about this before haha


















Are you implying that I was poking a dead horse?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Thanks thinker







. 
I guess I must've been a little unclear, the PSU that's in it now is the PCP&C 610w. I only mentioned the 500 Antec as it powered that particular board last. I had no power issues with the Antec and this board. It powered up and ran just fine all the time. 
Although lots of people seemed to have problems with it, other than the squealing which goes away once a +12v load is applied, I have no issues with it.


BlackOmega, ahhh ok sorry for the misunderstanding. Still though it wouldn't hurt to test the rails on the PCP&C and to perhaps even swap the unit out for testing purposes.

Good luck bud


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*









Are you implying that I was poking a dead horse?


Tator, gotcha you're being sarcastic...

I'm just trying to help BO out with his situation. I'm hoping my suggestions point him into the right direction.


----------



## BlackOmega

Ok so I tested the +12v, 3.3, 5.0 voltages. I don't have time at the moment to find all the voltage test points on the board. 
At any rate here are my results:


> Idle...... Load...... SmartGuardian



+12v: 12.06v / 12.07v / 11.71v
+5.0v: 5.02v / 5.02v / 4.91v
+3.3v: 3.37v / 3.37v / 3.24v
 So it appears to be that of voltages I tested, software monitoring is relatively off and it appears to be a rock solid PSU.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Ok so I tested the +12v, 3.3, 5.0 voltages. I don't have time at the moment to find all the voltage test points on the board. 
At any rate here are my results:


> Idle...... Load...... SmartGuardian



+12v: 12.06v / 12.07v / 11.71v
+5.0v: 5.02v / 5.02v / 4.91v
+3.3v: 3.37v / 3.37v / 3.24v
 So it appears to be that of voltages I tested, software monitoring is relatively off and it appears to be a rock solid PSU.


BlackOmega, right on buddy. That's definitely good news. For testing purposes try also swapping that unit out for another one to see if that does anything. Have you tried booting up the board outside of the case?

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, right on buddy. That's definitely good news. For testing purposes try also swapping that unit out for another one to see if that does anything. *Have you tried booting up the board outside of the case? *

Good luck


 Nope, the area where my computers are at now is somewhat limited and my wife walks through occasionally. So not much room really to set up a board outside of the case, not to mention it's on carpet.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Nope, the area where my computers are at now is somewhat limited and my wife walks through occasionally. So not much room really to set up a board outside of the case, not to mention it's on carpet.


BlackOmega, do you have any working space in your kitchen? Would it be possible for you to take everything out and install each thing piece by piece and test it that way?









Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, do you have any working space in your kitchen? Would it be possible for you to take everything out and install each thing piece by piece and test it that way?









Good luck


 Kinda, sorta, but not really. Especially with my 2 year old running around would make it nearly impossible to assemble it there. 
I did replace the battery, and the old wasn't bad. It showed 3.06v on my voltmeter. The new one showed 3.27, I just went ahead and replaced it anyway. 
And while I was at it I gave my rig a very slight OC 20MHz bump, while I was at it. So she's sitting at 2640 @ 1.31v







Temps just barely border on 63*C sitting in a 30.5*C room. Mind you its only 17.7*C outside. Its supposed to get up to 27*C over the next few days so I wonder how she'll hold up







.


----------



## BlackOmega

Ok, guys well it seems to be no improvement with the battery. I left it sitting for a while and went to turn it on. Same thing happened. All the lights come on, fans spin up, even the HDDs' spun up and still it didn't boot. Cycle the PSU and all is well.

However I did notice that the LED thats supposed to be on by the RAM is not. Well until I cycle the PSU anyway. Once I cycle it, the LED comes on and she fires right up.

What do you guys think might be causing this?


----------



## Hueristic

BO sounds like the power circuit is not charging the caps fast enough.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


BO sounds like the power circuit is not charging the caps fast enough.


 Well thats the odd thing Hue, the computer was sitting for ~6 hours. That should be plenty of time to charge up those tiny little caps on the board.

And why would it work after I flip the PSU switch on and off? I think the next free day I get I'll have to swap my old Antec in and see if the problem persists.

EDIT: Hue you're in RI right? I'm going to be there ~Aug. 22nd for a friends wedding. I think he lives in Providence.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well thats the odd thing Hue, the computer was sitting for ~6 hours. That should be plenty of time to charge up those tiny little caps on the board.

And why would it work after I flip the PSU switch on and off? I think the next free day I get I'll have to swap my old Antec in and see if the problem persists.












Quote:



EDIT: Hue you're in RI right? I'm going to be there ~Aug. 22nd for a friends wedding. I think he lives in Providence.



That rocks man I'll PM you my number and we can Hook up!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*











That rocks man I'll PM you my number and we can Hook up!


----------



## Hueristic

:cheer s:

















































:b and:


----------



## txtmstrjoe

BlackOmega, are you plugged straight into the wall, through a surge protector, or through a UPS? Perhaps you could try a different outlet?

Good luck.


----------



## BlackOmega

LOL! I'll finally get a free weekend, no wife, no kids and a whole lot of partying







WOOHOO!!!

EDIT: 
Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


BlackOmega, are you plugged straight into the wall, through a surge protector, or through a UPS? Perhaps you could try a different outlet?

Good luck.










 Its through a surge protected power strip. I'll try a different socket, but I dont think there is a problem with this one as my folding rig is also plugged in to it.


----------



## Hueristic

OK, I'm thinking that the first time you power up the ps maxes out and when it powers your devices it runs out of stored power (IE caps in PS) and the mobo is not getting a high enough charge to pass bios minimums to poer up(think of it as a hiccup). Try disconnecting devices like cdrom and see if that fixes it. If that does the trick then your just at the max your ps can supply. so either upgrade ps or add another to power your drives.


----------



## BlackOmega

Ok i'll give that a shot too and see what happens.


----------



## Hueristic

See you guys in the morning, umm is it good when the cieling starts spinning?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


See you guys in the morning, umm is it good when the cieling starts spinning?


Only when she says it is.









Or if you're sitting on a turntable or a Lazy Susan.









Take care, Hue.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


See you guys in the morning, umm is it good when the cieling starts spinning?


 The last time that happened to me I accidentally took my percocet at the wrong interval


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Cycle the PSU and all is well.

BlackOmega, good job man









Sorry I'm a little half asleep but when you mean "Cycle" are you referring to the power switch on the back of the power supply or did you completely swap out the PCP&C for a different one?

I apologize for the odd questions guys. Been up since 4 so I'm little lethargic.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
OK, I'm thinking that the first time you power up the ps maxes out and when it powers your devices it runs out of stored power (IE caps in PS) and the mobo is not getting a high enough charge to pass bios minimums to power up(think of it as a hiccup).

Hueristic, if that were the case then would you think this PCP&C unit is faulty? Your suggestion is pretty good and makes perfect sense









Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

From what Hueristic says, I think he is suggesting either a faulty PSU (broken cap perhaps?) or an insufficient one.

By "cycle," he means flip the switch on the back of the PSU (akin to unplugging it) and then flipping it back on.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, good job man









Sorry I'm a little half asleep but when you mean "Cycle" are you referring to the power switch on the back of the power supply or did you completely swap out the PCP&C for a different one?

I apologize for the odd questions guys. Been up since 4 so I'm little lethargic.

Hueristic, if that were the case then would you think this PCP&C unit is faulty? Your suggestion is pretty good and makes perfect sense









Good luck


DUDE!!! Get some sleep man!!








And Blitz got it right about the cycling. I probably wont have a chance to swap out the PSU until Friday.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


From what Hueristic says, I think he is suggesting either a faulty PSU (broken cap perhaps?) or an insufficient one.

By "cycle," he means flip the switch on the back of the PSU (akin to unplugging it) and then flipping it back on.


 Exactly.

I'm going to try unplugging the DVD/floppy drive and see if there is any change. If it still does it I'll also try unplugging 2 of my 4 case fans.

Its going to suck if I have to RMA this thing. It was working fine for several days


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Ok, guys well it seems to be no improvement with the battery. I left it sitting for a while and went to turn it on. Same thing happened. All the lights come on, fans spin up, even the HDDs' spun up and still it didn't boot. Cycle the PSU and all is well.

However I did notice that the LED thats supposed to be on by the RAM is not. Well until I cycle the PSU anyway. Once I cycle it, the LED comes on and she fires right up.

What do you guys think might be causing this?


BO, this is the exact same thing that happens to me. Every time I go to power on my rig, I have to cycle the PSU by the rear switch.

The RAM Power LED is on after I power cycle it, but not beforehand.


----------



## DesertRat

I'm looking for a cheap s939 opty here: http://www.overclock.net/wanted/5096...e-opteron.html

can anyone help me out w/ that here?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
BO, this is the exact same thing that happens to me. Every time I go to power on my rig, I have to cycle the PSU by the rear switch.

The RAM Power LED is on after I power cycle it, but not beforehand.

That's pretty weird isn't it. It didn't do this before when I had it setup for folding.







.
According to this PSU calculator, even with my rig overclocked to 3003mhz @ 1.55vcore @ 100% peak load it should only use 578w. If I add in 20% capacitor aging then it needs 631w. But this PCP&C PSU is brand new. So there shouldn't be any capacitor aging yet.
Have you tried a different PSU? I'll probably try mine sometime on Friday or this weekend. It's such a pain to get everything out of the case with this one.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


According to this PSU calculator, even with my rig overclocked to 3003mhz @ 1.55vcore @ 100% peak load it should only use 578w. If I add in 20% capacitor aging then it needs 631w.


BlackOmega, it's probably way less then that. You're probably doing like 170-240watts idle. Load (depending on if it's video or cpu) *may* be around 350watts. When I had my 4850 and opteron 170 I was barely doing 220 watts at load (Orthos and ATITool 3D View).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Have you tried a different PSU? I'll probably try mine sometime on Friday or this weekend. It's such a pain to get everything out of the case with this one.


You're mainly just testing the parts so if you're limited due to working space just connect the other power supply and leave the existing one installed. The 24-pin ect should be long enough, I usually just sit the psu on the case and test things that way. Lay the case on it's side and try it that way. I know what you mean though man, I had all the power cables in my CM690 going behind the motherboard tray and in all kinds of other places









I'm sorry but was this the power supply that you tested with the multimeter and then did comparisons in the OS with SmartGuardian?

Good luck


----------



## nategr8ns

The wierdest part is that there is no problem once it is running. In fact, booting up shouldn't even load the hardware (and therefore the PSU), right?
I can try with my 600w Ultra that I was going to use in my P:RiaGH case. My TT PSU may be the problem.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, it's probably way less then that. You're probably doing like 170-240watts idle. Load (depending on if it's video or cpu) *may* be around 350watts. When I had my 4850 and opteron 170 I was barely doing 220 watts at load (Orthos and ATITool 3D View).


 Yeah I just ran the calculator at 100% load on everything just to see how much power it could potentially draw if all the planets aligned and for some reason it used 100% of everything. It also gives me an idea of how big of a buffer to give myself. I'd rather have it use only 75-80% of the PSU rated power. 
According to that PSU calculator, the cpu at stock, 2400 Mhz 1.35vcore, draws 121w @ 100% load. And a whopping 175w @ 3003 1.55vcore.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


You're mainly just testing the parts so if you're limited due to working space just connect the other power supply and leave the existing one installed. The 24-pin ect should be long enough, I usually just sit the psu on the case and test things that way. Lay the case on it's side and try it that way. I know what you mean though man, I had all the power cables in my CM690 going behind the motherboard tray and in all kinds of other places










 That's exactly how my CM590 is. I have everything run behind the mobo tray, even to pull the cabling through I actually need to unscrew the PSU from the case. I really need to make that hole just a wee bit larger.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


I'm sorry but was this the power supply that you tested with the multimeter and then did comparisons in the OS with SmartGuardian?

Good luck


 Yeah the PCP&C 610w was the one I was testing.

Nate and th|nk3r, do you guys have the molex connector plugged in on your boards? I can't remember if it's a necessity or optional like on my old Asus board.

Nate, I'm wondering how much power is actually drawn when powering up. I know that by the time I get in to windows and coretemp boots up the temps are relatively high, so Im assuming that there is a considerable load upon startup.


----------



## nategr8ns

I have the molex and the floppy connector plugged in, but only because I was told it's a good idea to use the ports (they're there for a reason). I forget what blitz told me exactly.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


I have the molex and the *floppy connector *plugged in, but only because I was told it's a good idea to use the ports (they're there for a reason). I forget what blitz told me exactly.










Theres a floppy connector on the board too?


----------



## N2Gaming

Hi guys, I just wanted to drop by and say thank you to blitz & thlnk3r. They helped me out w/my dead Seagate drive. I just got my seagate HDD back from firmware and data recovery repair and I did not loose a single file FTW. Now I can play all my games again including NFSHS.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

For the DFI LANParty boards, it is strongly recommended to have all power connectors (including the molex and the floppy power connector) plugged into the board.


----------



## BlackOmega

Hmm... well it seems that the FDD connector is only supposed to be plugged in if you're running 2 GPUs'. I have never had it plugged in on any of my DFI boards (I dont know if the CFX even has one).

Have you guys noticed increased stability having it plugged in?

Now this is a total assumption but, when these boards were made a majority of the GPUs' didn't have a power connector on them. I'm assuming that since they didn't have these is why a lot of the 939 have a supplemental power point for them. Like the Molex on the A8N32.

But hey what could it hurt, I'll plug that little bugger in too. I'll do it later as I am studying for Anatomy & physiology.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hmm... well it seems that the FDD connector is only supposed to be plugged in if you're running 2 GPUs'. I have never had it plugged in on any of my DFI boards (I dont know if the CFX even has one).


BlackOmega, that's correct. It's only a recommendation from DFI and not a "have to". The additional power connectors provide more stability. According to the DFI manual for my SLI-DR the board will still work even if the additional power connectors are not connected. I'd still advice connecting them anyways regardless if you only have one card.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hi guys, I just wanted to drop by and say thank you to blitz & thlnk3r. They helped me out w/my dead Seagate drive. I just got my seagate HDD back from firmware and data recovery repair and I did not loose a single file FTW. Now I can play all my games again including NFSHS.










N2Gaming, congrats man









Good luck

EDIT: Btw I didn't find a 4-pin molex connector on your board. See attached image. I tried to visit DFI's website for your D/G and the image for the board wasn't available. The manual page didn't want to load either. I below the FDD connector is right above the first PCIe slot (on the left).


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, that's correct. It's only a recommendation from DFI and not a "have to". The additional power connectors provide more stability. According to the DFI manual for my SLI-DR the board will still work even if the additional power connectors are not connected. I'd still advice connecting them anyways regardless if you only have one card.

N2Gaming, congrats man









Good luck

EDIT: Btw I didn't find a 4-pin molex connector on your board. See attached image. I tried to visit DFI's website for your D/G and the image for the board wasn't available. The manual page didn't want to load either. I below the FDD connector is right above the first PCIe slot (on the left).



i dont recall seeing one on the CFX. As for the ultra DxG, it looks pretty much identical to the the Ultra-D AFAIK. Only the DR designated boards are somewhat visually different.


----------



## Blitz6804

nategr8ns: I am unsure. I think when a PC first kicks over, it draws a large amount of power and then dials back; at least, if I listen to all my fans. GPU, CPU, and Case falls all go to 100% when the PC turns on to POST, and then after the POST beep, everything dials back.

BlackOmega: I am of the theory: "It could not hurt." Even with single graphics card solutions, I will always plug in all possible power connectors into everything I see. What is the worst that can happen? A component has the ability to draw more power than it needs?


----------



## Hueristic

When initially power on your system has to power your mobo and gpu's power circuits and that is a large immediate draw as the caps charge. Also at this time all your drives are at max load because they are running their self test routine as well as setting their heads.

When ever I think a Ps might be getting maxed out I disconnect the cd/dvd drive and or floppy and that doesn't boot I'll change out the gpu with a old low draw pci.

Glad to hear the good news N2, we haven't raced in awhile!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


When initially power on your system has to power your mobo and gpu's power circuits and that is a large immediate draw as the caps charge. Also at this time all your drives are at max load because they are running their self test routine as well as setting their heads.


Hueristic, not sure if you have a kill-a-watt or not but when I was playing with mine at power up the wattage shoots up to like 150-180. It happens for about one to two seconds before POST. After POST is settles down to around 100watts so this does definitely occur.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

As I suspected from observation and hunch. Thanks for the anecdotal empirical evidence Thlnk3r and words of experience Hueristic.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


nategr8ns: I am unsure. I think when a PC first kicks over, it draws a large amount of power and then dials back; at least, if I listen to all my fans. GPU, CPU, and Case falls all go to 100% when the PC turns on to POST, and then after the POST beep, everything dials back.


I'm almost sure that that is only because the motherboard hasn't dedicated any "time" to controlling the fans, so it just runs them at full until it starts monitoring temps (GPU and CPU fans).

I encourage all of you (especially those that know about acrylic) to head over to my case build thread. I'm not sure how to clean the acrylic (there's some tape residue and random dust, I also may need to buff out some minor scratches).


----------



## BlackOmega

Although the explanation of the initial power up is a good one. However it doesn't explain why after cycling the PSU it boots up normally. Both nate and I have this issue with this board. And I believe Nate is using a 700w PSU.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Although the explanation of the initial power up is a good one. However it doesn't explain why after cycling the PSU it boots up normally. Both nate and I have this issue with this board. And I believe Nate is using a 700w PSU. 










Oh, no, I'm on a 450w.


----------



## Blitz6804

How long do you leave it off before switching it back on? If briefly, the capacitors would maintain their charge. If you switch it off and wait five minutes, and then switch it back on and boot it should fail again.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Although the explanation of the initial power up is a good one. However it doesn't explain why after cycling the PSU it boots up normally. Both nate and I have this issue with this board. And I believe Nate is using a 700w PSU. 










BlackOmega, wow excuse my ignorance but I didn't know you two had the same board. This makes it even more interesting









I wonder if it's something to do with the chipset? The best way to test our theory is to disconnect the PCP&C unit and connect it to another board. If the same problem happens then perhaps it's a coincidence and we can blame the power supply.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I believe one is running an Ultra-D, the other is running a 3200CFX.


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz, sorry it sounded like BlackOmega had the same board that and I can't keep up with everyone's other side projects whether it being another board purchase or what not









Quote:



_Both nate and I have this issue with *this* board._


----------



## nategr8ns

This problem may be on BO's DxG (or is it GxD?







), which looks to me like an Ultra-D with SLI (although does the SLI-D have any other differences?)
I'm thinking I want to attempt the SLI mod on my Ultra-D, but I don't want to buy another 8800gt until I know that it was successful. Does something show up in BIOS if SLI is enabled?


----------



## Blitz6804

Like I said, I BELIEVE they differ. I know Nate is using an Ultra-D; its the only DFI he owns. (Two in fact.) BlackOmega may be running his CFX3200, but may not be.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
This problem may be on BO's DxG (or is it GxD?







), which looks to me like an Ultra-D with SLI (although does the SLI-D have any other differences?)
I'm thinking I want to attempt the SLI mod on my Ultra-D, but I don't want to buy another 8800gt until I know that it was successful. Does something show up in BIOS if SLI is enabled?

Nate, literally the only difference is the scalable link interface. Here's a guide that may shed some light on your question: http://www.overclockersclub.com/guid...tradtoslidmod/. I can't exactly remember but I think this was fixed to where you couldn't mod the Ultra-D to SLI anymore. I'm really not sure...I might be thinking about another non-SLI chipset.

Good luck

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Like I said, I BELIEVE they differ.

Blitz, I'm sure they do man. I was just going off the above statements. I wasn't going off the sig rig specifications.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
How long do you leave it off before switching it back on? If briefly, the capacitors would maintain their charge. If you switch it off and wait five minutes, and then switch it back on and boot it should fail again.


----------



## Blitz6804

DFI did acquiesce to nVidia and eventually fix the pencil mod problem. The question is: how old is Nate's board? Old enough to still be able to do it?


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Nate, literally the only difference is the scalable link interface. Here's a guide that may shed some light on your question: http://www.overclockersclub.com/guid...tradtoslidmod/. I can't exactly remember but I think this was fixed to where you couldn't mod the Ultra-D to SLI anymore. I'm really not sure...I might be thinking about another non-SLI chipset.


Thanks for the link thinker, I'm pretty sure that's the same one I read a while ago when I was originally shopping for a new motherboard.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


DFI did acquiesce to nVidia and eventually fix the pencil mod problem. The question is: how old is Nate's board? Old enough to still be able to do it?


I'm hoping its older







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, sorry it sounded like BlackOmega had the same board that and I can't keep up with everyone's other side projects whether it being another board purchase or what not










lol, I have problems enough keeping up w/my own hardware.









Nate did you ever get that DFI in D closet running?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


I wonder if it's something to do with the chipset? The best way to test our theory is to disconnect the PCP&C unit and connect it to another board. If the same problem happens then perhaps it's a coincidence and we can blame the power supply.

Good luck


 I'm going to try as you suggested earlier to just power it up using my Antec outside the case.
According to that PSU calculator, I should be able to get away with it as the power output will be just barely enough as long as its not overclocked.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I believe one is running an Ultra-D, the other is running a 3200CFX.


 Well I technically am running a CFX and a LP Ultra DxG (Dual express graphics). Which from what I have read is really no different than the ultra D. They both use the NF4 ultra chipset, both have 2 PCIe slots. I honestly dont know what the difference is.








The CFX3200 is folding 24/7 using both of my GSOs'.








So far so good, I haven't had any problems with it. I just reboot it ~ once a week.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


This problem may be on BO's DxG (or is it GxD?







), which looks to me like an Ultra-D with SLI (although does the SLI-D have any other differences?)
I'm thinking I want to attempt the SLI mod on my Ultra-D, but I don't want to buy another 8800gt until I know that it was successful. Does something show up in BIOS if SLI is enabled?


 Nate do you still have the OE box for your Ultra-D? Now that I took a closer look at mine, both of the barcode areas say that both of my DFI NF4's are ultra D's. But yet on the front flap on both boxes it does say DxG.








I know I can mod both of my boards, I've swapped out the chipset coolers several times (even lapped one) and none of the "pins" are covered with epoxy. 
Even if the "pins" are covered with epoxy, you can remove enough of the epoxy to expose the pins and mod it without damaging the board.

I think I might try my hand at modding one of my boards. If I can convince my wife to use one and sell her iMacturd







she'd use the one that I mod with my 6800's in SLI.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Figured I'd share with you guys my current "summer" overclock. Seeing as how ambient temperatures are rising into the 80's-90's, its a little too toasty to run higher voltage right now.

Voltage Settings:
CPU - 1.125v in BIOS
HTT - Overvolt = On
RAM - 2.60v

All my other settings should be pretty well self explanatory by this screen shot







.


----------



## Blitz6804

It never ceases to amaze me how much that little chip will bend to your will Pio. A 900 MHz overclock while being undervolted 198 mV is just crazy.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


lol, I have problems enough keeping up w/my own hardware.









Nate did you ever get that DFI in D closet running?


Well, no, but I did get a new [used] one from Joe.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Nate do you still have the OE box for your Ultra-D? Now that I took a closer look at mine, both of the barcode areas say that both of my DFI NF4's are ultra D's. But yet on the front flap on both boxes it does say DxG.








I know I can mod both of my boards, I've swapped out the chipset coolers several times (even lapped one) and none of the "pins" are covered with epoxy. 
Even if the "pins" are covered with epoxy, you can remove enough of the epoxy to expose the pins and mod it without damaging the board.

I think I might try my hand at modding one of my boards. If I can convince my wife to use one and sell her iMacturd







she'd use the one that I mod with my 6800's in SLI.










Yep, I actually have two Ultra-D retail boxes. What do you want me to look for?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Yep, I actually have two Ultra-D retail boxes. What do you want me to look for?


 Ok on the top flap, the one with the picture of the kid sitting at his computer. Along the right side it'll DFI at the top, the CMOS RELOADED below it, then NForce4 below that, and below that is where mine say DXG Dual Express Graphics. Do yours say that as well?

Then on the right side of the boxwhere the barcode is, what it the description on the barcode itself?


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Ok on the top flap, the one with the picture of the kid sitting at his computer. Along the right side it'll DFI at the top, the CMOS RELOADED below it, then NForce4 below that, and below that is where mine say DXG Dual Express Graphics. Do yours say that as well?

Then on the right side of the boxwhere the barcode is, what it the description on the barcode itself?

They both have the DXG logo (under the NF4 Ultra logo, under the CMOS reloaded logo), and they both say Ultra-D on the barcode sticker thing.


----------



## N2Gaming

Pio, that is very impressive.

Nate, so I gather you gave up on that board all together or were you ever able to get an RMA out of it?


----------



## Hueristic

I had to lower my HTT from 280 to 260, need to get a true. the modded volcano just doesn't cut it!

BTW I don't know why all the reviews said this board (Tyan Tiger) doesn't OC well? I've had no problems.


----------



## nategr8ns

Yeah I gave up on it, I never got any tech support response from DFI.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well I technically am running a CFX and a LP Ultra DxG (Dual express graphics). Which from what I have read is really no different than the ultra D. They both use the NF4 ultra chipset, both have 2 PCIe slots. I honestly dont know what the difference is.










BlackOmega, the CFX3200 is a Crossfire board where as the Ultra D/G has that "Dual Xpress Graphics" support. I don't think the D/G has scalable link interface.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Figured I'd share with you guys my current "summer" overclock. Seeing as how ambient temperatures are rising into the 80's-90's, its a little too toasty to run higher voltage right now.

Voltage Settings:
CPU - 1.125v in BIOS
HTT - Overvolt = On
RAM - 2.60v


Pioneerisloud, very nicely done. I've never seen such a high overclock with such a low Vcore. Let us know when all the stability testing is complete!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
They both have the DXG logo (under the NF4 Ultra logo, under the CMOS reloaded logo), and they both say Ultra-D on the barcode sticker thing.









So it makes me wonder if all Ultra-D boards are really Ultra D/G boards.
I was just flipping through the manual and there is no technical designation for the D/G board like there is on DFI's website. So it makes me wonder if there ever was an "official" D/G board.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, the CFX3200 is a Crossfire board where as the Ultra D/G has that "Dual Xpress Graphics" support. I don't think the D/G has scalable link interface.

No thats not what I meant thinker. I think I need to be a little bit clearer







. I was comparing the similarities between the NF4 Ultra-D and the Ultra-D/G.
My assumption is that it seems that all ultra D boards were in fact ultra D/G boards since they all had dual express graphics.
It seems to me that DFI made only 1 board that just had 1 of 3 chipsets (NF4, NF4Ultra, NF4SLI). The differences between the boards that I can make out is the NF4 boards had 1.5Gb/s SATA, no Sil chipset (only the DR models had the Sil chipset and an extra 4 Sata ports), no Marvell PCI LAN and no ActiveArmor (whatever that is). The ultra chipset was basically the same as the NF4 except the ultra has 3.0 Gb/s, the Marvell PCI LAN and active armor.
After doing some research on the subject some time back, I have found that you can actually make NF4 and an NF4 ultra boards SLI and enable the 3.0Gb/s on the NF4 chipset. Under the NB heat sink are the pins you need to connect in order to enable these features.

Now that I think about it, it seems they were all the same chipset with certain pins on the NB enabled or disabled depending on what features they wanted the board to have.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well...I passed 13 hours at those settings. I have a screenshot for proof if anyone wants to see it







.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Well...I passed 13 hours at those settings. I have a screenshot for proof if anyone wants to see it







.


Pio, include a CPU-Z validation link and I'll update the roster









Good job!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Pio, include a CPU-Z validation link and I'll update the roster









Good job!

No thanks, I prefer to keep the 3.0 that's listed, (or whatever is listed). If you want to, you can update it to my 3.353GHz CPUz validation...which is in my sig







.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
If you want to, you can update it to my 3.353GHz CPUz validation...which is in my sig







.

Pioneer, as you wish commander


----------



## Blitz6804

In the off-site we are not limited by space. I presume you wish to have your 3266 MHz updated to the 3355 MHz and keep your S&M Stable 2924 MHz as well?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
In the off-site we are not limited by space. I presume you wish to have your 3266 MHz updated to the 3355 MHz and keep your S&M Stable 2924 MHz as well?

Yes please







.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


In the off-site we are not limited by space. I presume you wish to have your 3266 MHz updated to the 3355 MHz and keep your S&M Stable 2924 MHz as well?


If possible, I'd like to have my other chips added to the list as well Blitz. If needed, I'll dig up the CPU-Z links for you.


----------



## Blitz6804

Ig uoy coulf di thta for le tha'dt be sqell.


----------



## nategr8ns

"if you could do that for me, that'd be swell."
took me about a minute of puzzling and sounding out







.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Ig uoy coulf di thta for le tha'dt be sqell.

Beegladd to dooit4u.

Opteron 165 @ 3255 MHz - On air
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=560101

Opteron 175 @ 3388 MHz - On air
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=552462

Opteron 180 @ 3351 MHz - On air
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=552577

BTW, I'm setting up the 939 for WC'ing. Already have my 754 going and it's made a big difference. Will update my OC entries on each chip as I go. Hoping to break 3.4GHz with the 175 and believe it will as long as my RAM can keep up.


----------



## nategr8ns

dang, nice!
Those aren't stable are they?


----------



## thlnk3r

Kryton, those are some crazy overclocks. I hardly see overclocks that high on S939 processors. If you can get them stable I'll definitely rep you.

Good luck buddy


----------



## Blitz6804

Thanks for the correction nategr8ns. I hit my head pretty hard and was apparently not typing straight for a while. I will update/add your clocks soon Kryton.


----------



## BeOtCh

could mine be updated ..... validation link in sig thx

cpu @ 2.53
mem @ 360
ht @ 920


----------



## Blitz6804

BeOtCh and Kryton, the off-site roster has been updated.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BeOtCh*


could mine be updated ..... validation link in sig thx


BeOtCh, I've also made the appropriate changes to the Club roster to reflect your new OC.

Kryton, check your PM's









Good luck guys


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BeOtCh, I've also made the appropriate changes to the Club roster to reflect your new OC.

Kryton, check your PM's









Good luck guys


PM's checked.

I'll see what I can do to get that rep from you.

Also have two 4000+ San Diego's to test with this setup. Probrably the first chips I'll use with it. One delidded, one not.
Just have to setup the board first, then go for it.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Hello again 939-ers.

When I acquire my new domicile, I will once again be using a S939 machine as my main rig. Sigrig is going on Projector duty. :3

Needless to say, I'm excited to start using this stuff again.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hi guys!

Here are a few pictures of the current sig rig, Darth Raivo.

A look at the case's motherboard tray, with some modifications by thlnk3r.










A look at the backside of the motherboard tray; just below the motherboard tray is an area at the rear of the horizontal divider panel where thlnk3r ground out some material to make way for cables to run through.


















The motherboard, a completely brand new and sealed DFI LANParty UT nF4 SLI-DR. I had to change the CMOS battery, though, after I tested the factory original and found it to be holding only 2.74V (measured with thlnk3r DMM).










Excuse the poor camera skills, but the CPU is an Opteron 170 (LCBQE 0722RPAW). Here it is with its IHS still attached:










Here's a shot of me doing surgery:










And here's the end result:










And a photo of the chip after I have installed electrical tape over the tiny resistors lining the periphery of the core die (to afford them some protection from damage):










A shot of the CPU sitting in its socket:










I'll eventually start a Build Log for this project. Consider these a teaser of sorts.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Nice Joe! Want I should hang on to that for ya?


----------



## nategr8ns

Dang, a new board!
Now I'm kind of curious: How many 939 parts do you guys have (working)?
I have:
processors: opty 175 and 3800+ (missing a pin)
motherboards: DFI ultra-d and MSI k8n


----------



## Hueristic

SWEET JOE!!!!!

I've been hesitant of delidding my 165 (like my sig says can't afford to replace







) not to mention my OC is HS limited ATM. But if I ever get my butt in gear again (been doing house repairs- Roof don't leak no more!







) I'm considering this. Make sure to drop a link to the build log I love this stuff, Lots of pictures for people like me that can't read!









Opty 165 /Tyan Tiger
3200+ / asrock sata II


----------



## BlackOmega

Very nice Joe! Nice board too







. Definitely make a build thread.

As for the rigs I've running - (Sig rig) Opty 180/Ultra-D
And my folding rig - 3800x2/CFX3200

As for other parts I have that work, naked 3500+/another Ultra-D.

Speaking of which, Nate would you be willing to sell me the NB fan off of your non-working Ultra-D? I'll even send you the thermaltake passive cooler I have. It actually works better than the fan style but, I've been wanting to SLI mod one of these ultra-D boards and the passive cooler is too tall to put a card in.
I'm trying to get my wife to switch over to PC's as my 3500+ is considerably faster than the crappy iMac she uses. She'd wind up using the SLI modded board with the 3500+ and 2x Evga 6800's (OMG I can't believe theyre selling them again!!).

Let me know Nate,


----------



## nategr8ns

Yeah sure!
Is it on with adhesive? Or just those two plastic tab/bolt things? I'll take it off and test it on my desktop







.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Yeah sure!
Is it on with adhesive? Or just those two plastic tab/bolt things? I'll take it off and test it on my desktop







.


 It uses the 2 black plastic pushpins. I think I was wrong on the manufacturer of the cooler. It actually appears to be this Zalman. 
this is exactly what it looks like. 
Mind you though, this does make the top PCIe slot unusable with large video cards. But the Ultra D can use the lower PCIe slot as its primary.









And my temps with this thing were literally 10*C cooler than with the fan.

PM me with price and such.


----------



## Blitz6804

Joe, I am excited to finally see your new project going. On the other hand... those pictures make my laptop* scream in pain! Can you maybe scale them down like 50% next time?

*1680x1050, 17"


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Dang, a new board!
Now I'm kind of curious: How many 939 parts do you guys have (working)?
I have:
processors: opty 175 and 3800+ (missing a pin)
motherboards: DFI ultra-d and MSI k8n


Let's see...

DFI LP UT NF4 Expert MB;
2 Asus A8N32 SLI Deluxe MB's (Both work, sitting in their boxes right now);
2 4000+ San Diego's (Actually three, one is in the wife's PC)
Opteron 165, 175, 180 chips;
X2 4200 Toledo

That's about it - For now.


----------



## thlnk3r

Joe, I didn't know that DFI board was brand new and still sealed









Man that being my first Dremel job I sure was nervous haha

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Now I'm kind of curious: How many 939 parts do you guys have (working)?


Nate, just what is in my signature rig. I might have a 3800+ X2 host my fps server. Still undecided on that. Currently I'm saving up for a PhII for my VM host.


----------



## nategr8ns

For those of you with AM2 setups, do you think it would be worth going to Windows 7 x64 instead of Vista x64 on an Athlon X2 5000+ w/4gb of ram? I just reinstalled Vista x64 on his computer (because he downloads tons of crap and screwed up his OS) and it would probably be worth it to just install win-7 now, right?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


For those of you with AM2 setups, do you think it would be worth going to Windows 7 x64 instead of Vista x64 on an Athlon X2 5000+ w/4gb of ram? I just reinstalled Vista x64 on his computer (because he downloads tons of crap and screwed up his OS) and it would probably be worth it to just install win-7 now, right?


Nate, I think it's a great idea if you have 4GB of memory. What is the price going to be like for Win7 x64 when it goes live?

Good luck


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


For those of you with AM2 setups, do you think it would be worth going to Windows 7 x64 instead of Vista x64 on an Athlon X2 5000+ w/4gb of ram? I just reinstalled Vista x64 on his computer (because he downloads tons of crap and screwed up his OS) and it would probably be worth it to just install win-7 now, right?


Mine is an AM2+, but when I had my x2 4000+ Windsor @ 3.0ghz I felt that Windows 7 x64 ran much nicer, and did not have as many bugs as Vista.

I had ATi driver issues though. But I think that's been pretty much worked out now.

Any day of the week 7 > Vista.


----------



## nategr8ns

Alright, what's the best way to download the Win-7 RC? I don't have a Live account.

And thinker, I'm not sure what its going to cost. More than Vista from what I've heard though. I'll just stick with the RC for now.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Alright, what's the best way to download the Win-7 RC? I don't have a Live account.


Nate, I would probably download is directly from Microsoft. A Windows live account is free. Should only take you a few minutes to get it going: https://accountservices.passport.net...vv=650&lc=1033.

Good luck


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Alright, what's the best way to download the Win-7 RC? I don't have a Live account.

And thinker, I'm not sure what its going to cost. More than Vista from what I've heard though. I'll just stick with the RC for now.


7 is supposed to cost as much as Vista did at launch.

Also, for downloading, I would just make a live account. I have had my hotmail since the dawn of it, and Microshaft has always made that email worth its creation. Beteween Club Live, Cash Back, 7 & Vista RC's. Free XP super pack. And many other things, I've never looked back from making it so many years ago.


----------



## iandh

Ah, I still remember the thrill of getting my first pair of G.Skill HZ's on my X2 3800+/DFI NF4 rig


----------



## Kryton

Still getting my kicks here.

Did another suicide run to test the effectiveness of my new WC'ing setup and I think it's working.



Now it's time to complete the second stage of this WC'ing project.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Still getting my kicks here.

Did another suicide run to test the effectiveness of my new WC'ing setup and I think it's working.



Now it's time to complete the second stage of this WC'ing project.


----------



## Kryton

Further testing and tweaking of the new setup with the Opty 180 doing a 32M PI Super PI run to see if it can clock with any stability. 
Still working on the second stage of this but right now, I'm OK with it.

Eventually I'll do some stability testing and right now figuring things out at these speeds.


----------



## Hueristic

Well as I promised you guys I finally got a few pics of my Torture Tech Station (uncompleted).

I decided I needed a break and started on a fun project (as I have just been doing repairs on my house and systems for the last few years).

And since it took so long to get the pics up for you guys I added a little spice for ya.


----------



## nategr8ns

aaaagh shirtless hue, my eyes!
lol just kidding








That thing is pretty sweet, where's the mobo going to be mounted? On the base or on the rope?


----------



## thlnk3r

Hueristic, "torture tech station" I like that.

Who is the scary swords man running towards the camera


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
aaaagh shirtless hue, my eyes!
lol just kidding








That thing is pretty sweet, where's the mobo going to be mounted? On the base or on the rope?

LOLz I rarely where a shirt while working. Me and the nephew were painting shelving in the backyard when he took the pics with his phone.

Yes mobo will be suspended where the ropes currently are. I shall Strech the last Ghz outta the thing!









Wait till you see the waterboarding cooling system I'm gonna put on it. Unfortunately that is still in alpha (In my head).

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Hueristic, "torture tech station" I like that.

Who is the scary swords man running towards the camera

















I'm scary!







I thought I was a nice guy!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Wait till you see the waterboarding cooling system I'm gonna put on it.


Hueristic, this outta be interesting. Can you include any details on that?


----------



## nategr8ns

exposed water-cooling loop?
Water drips onto top of motherboard (not the motherboard itself, obviously, but a water-block that stretches to the top) and runs down, through fins and pins, to around the video card, where it goes to the side and is collected into a reservoir until it gets pumped back up.
hmmm... Maybe not







.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
Water drips onto top of motherboard

Nate, I don't know but I like the first part of your idea. Completely cover the board in silicon and seal it. Then drop it into a barrel of LN2


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Hueristic, this outta be interesting. Can you include any details on that?


Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
exposed water-cooling loop?
Water drips onto top of motherboard (not the motherboard itself, obviously, but a water-block that stretches to the top) and runs down, through fins and pins, to around the video card, where it goes to the side and is collected into a reservoir until it gets pumped back up.
hmmm... Maybe not







.

Good guess Nate, Actually close.









But you'll have to wait.


----------



## nategr8ns

water cooling?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
water cooling?


----------



## N2Gaming

Hue it's so nice to see you out and about in a playful manner. I was doing a simalar, yet bone head move today myself. I was out in my bass boat and it got so HOT that I just had to jump in. I forgot to remove all the valuables, wallet, keys, Dig Camera... LOL it's all good. I did not loose any thing, it's amazing what a little sun and a few cold ones will do to a person out on a lake w/the sun beating down on ya....







Enjoy your holiday guys I know I am.









N2G









Edit:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
water cooling?

Happy M day guys. I'll be getting some H2O cooling later my self. for now I have to turn the legs.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Hue it's so nice to see you out and about in a playful manner. I was doing a simalar, yet bone head move today myself. I was out in my bass boat and it got so HOT that I just had to jump in. I forgot to remove all the valuables, wallet, keys, Dig Camera... LOL it's all good. I did not loose any thing, it's amazing what a little sun and a few cold ones will do to a person out on a lake w/the sun beating down on ya....







Enjoy your holiday guys I know I am.









N2G




















































:c heers:



































:b and:


----------



## nategr8ns

dang, I feel so left out
Joe, how's your WC venture going?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Hueristic, "torture tech station" I like that.

Who is the scary swords man running towards the camera










 LOL! I was wondering the same thing









Hue is that a real sword? As in metal or is it wooden? Lol crazy lookin "torture tech station".

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hue it's so nice to see you out and about in a playful manner. I was doing a simalar, yet bone head move today myself. I was out in my bass boat and it got so HOT that I just had to jump in. I forgot to remove all the valuables, wallet, keys, Dig Camera... LOL it's all good. I did not loose any thing, it's amazing what a little sun and a few cold ones will do to a person out on a lake w/the sun beating down on ya....







Enjoy your holiday guys I know I am.









N2G









Edit:

Happy M day guys. I'll be getting some H2O cooling later my self. for now I have to turn the legs.










 Nice i'm glad you guys are out and about having fun. I'm stuck indoors studying for a damn test I have tomorrow :swearing:

Why is it that people are always drinking while on boats
















Maybe thats the reason theres so many fishing accidents


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


dang, I feel so left out
Joe, how's your WC venture going?


The WC project is on the back burner. thlnk3r's got the case it's going to be using. Other than that, all the parts are present and accounted for.

I hope to get that going in July.

Hue, interesting concept, as described by nate.







I hope it goes really well!







Keep us posted, eh!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


thlnk3r's got the case it's going to be using.


Case....what case









Happy late Memorial day guys!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Case....what case









Happy late Memorial day guys!


Uh, I DO know where you live.









And I'm not averse to home invasion robbery.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Hue is that a real sword? As in metal or is it wooden? Lol crazy lookin "torture tech station".Why is it that people are always drinking while on boats
















Maybe thats the reason theres so many fishing accidents









Yeah I collect midevil stuff. Before I got hurt my favorite past time was Sword fighting. (the real stuff not fencing







)

People drink on boats cause it's one of the last refuges you can relax and have a drink without getting hassled. The best catch of the day is the BUZZ!









Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Hue, interesting concept, as described by nate.







I hope it goes really well!







Keep us posted, eh!

Will do lots to do still but that took me about an hour or 2 and spent a while bending coat hangers for metal kit. I have to remove3 all the (rope) but I put it on there to give you guys a general Idea of the look I was going for.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Uh, I DO know where you live.









And I'm not averse to home invasion robbery.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Uh, I DO know where you live.









And I'm not averse to home invasion robbery.


















Should I prep the battle Elephants?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Yeah I collect midevil stuff. Before I got hurt my favorite past time was Sword fighting. (the real stuff not fencing







)

Right on. I could never afford midevil stuff when I was really in to it. :swearing: We do have a Renaissance festival around here though. Its pretty cool there games like, axe throwing










I thought fencing was derived from the sword style used against fully armored (plate) soldiers. As slashing was useless and you had to poke and prod in the gaps of the armor.
I always like maces, flails and war hammers personally the hell with poking and prodding, I'll smash em.


----------



## thlnk3r

Forgot to mention I started some minor OC'ing of my oldy but goody single core Opteron 146. Did a mild 500Mhz OC with 1.3 volts. I'm hoping for 2.8Ghz but this CAB2E was always a pain. Full load temperatures were in the mid 40's.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Nice i'm glad you guys are out and about having fun. I'm stuck indoors studying for a damn test I have tomorrow :swearing:

Why is it that people are always drinking while on boats
















Maybe thats the reason theres so many fishing accidents










Well statistically there are more accidents involving people lacking the proper experience to drive a boat and when you add in other factors like a days worth of partying then the numbers increase. It's sad really because the responsible boaters will eventually have to pay for all the irresponsible ones. With regards to me. I only had 2 all day and it was right before I jumped into the lake with in the 5 mile per hour zone to get away from the wakes and speeding boats. I have no excuse other then my lack of memory and absent mindedness. I have jumped into swimming pools etc w/stuff in my pockets going all the way back to high school. Heck I use to thrash through the swampy trails in Texas on my dirt bikes when I was in high school and would loose all kinds of things. I just like to have good old clean fun.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


People drink on boats cause it's one of the last refuges you can relax and have a drink without getting hassled. The best catch of the day is the BUZZ!










 That is so true, for now...


----------



## Pest

Sorry to just plop this into the thread guys, but I have a few quick questions. I'm looking for a 939 board, preferably new, I know the boards went out of production years ago, but I was hoping you guys might have a website that sells them which I do not know about. I've looked at newegg, tigerdirect, zipzoomfly, directron, geeks, used pricewatch, google shopping, amazon and pacificgeek. Not going to Ebay.

The boards I have found are overpriced, as to be expected, but I'd rather not pay more than $80. The board doesn't need anything fancy just one pci-e 16x slot, and a decent manufacturer i.e. not msi or foxconn. If you guys have any extra's laying around I might be interested in those also.

Thanks in advance for the useful information I know will follow.


----------



## N2Gaming

Did you try to google new socket 939? Good Luck Pest.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Pest, unfortunately S939 motherboards are more rare than diamonds. Especially if you're looking for a brand-new one, it is almost impossible (right now I would say it IS impossible) to find one in the retail channel.

Other than a private seller, you very likely will not be able to find any new S939 boards. Even through a private seller, you probably will not get anything new.

eBay is risky, but to be honest I myself have yet to be burned on eBay. I've purchased a few boards from there and, except for my DFI LANParty UT CFX3200-DR, I've yet to have bought a lemon. In all fairness, though, the board itself is likely to be defective anyway.

Nevertheless, good luck in your quest, Pest.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
It's sad really because the responsible boaters will eventually have to pay for all the irresponsible ones.

Thats the case with most everything. There used to be a spot around where I live where everyone would go out and drag race. It was by an abandoned airfield so there was literally almost no traffic. Then a couple of guys on crotch rockets were drunk and wrecked pretty hard. 1 of them died when they hit a UPS truck. But in all honesty I believe it was their fault since they went past where everyone knew you needed to slow down and blew through a red light.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pest* 
Sorry to just plop this into the thread guys, but I have a few quick questions. I'm looking for a 939 board, preferably new, I know the boards went out of production years ago, but I was hoping you guys might have a website that sells them which I do not know about. I've looked at newegg, tigerdirect, zipzoomfly, directron, geeks, used pricewatch, google shopping, amazon and pacificgeek. Not going to Ebay.

The boards I have found are overpriced, as to be expected, but I'd rather not pay more than $80. The board doesn't need anything fancy just one pci-e 16x slot, and a decent manufacturer i.e. not msi or foxconn. If you guys have any extra's laying around I might be interested in those also.

Thanks in advance for the useful information I know will follow.

The ONLY place that I have seen new 939 boards was on ebay and a few shops around here which want WAAAY too much for em, especially since the ones I saw were AGP. One guy told me $195, I literally was like









You can look at www.starsurplus.com they might have some boards on there. I haven't looked in a while so I don't know.

EDIT: So I finally broke down and bought a GOOD cooler, the Xigmatek Dark knight. I should probably see it tomorrow or the next day. I'll be sure to run some benches and a comparison between that and my XP120.
As for my Big Typhoon, its sitting on that lapped 3800x2, and man WOW what a difference 2 lapped surfaces make. At idle its ALWAYS at ambient temps. I'm actually fairly amazed by that improvement in temps.


----------



## Pest

Thanks for all the responses guys. Reps on me!


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Well statistically there are more accidents involving people lacking the proper experience to drive a boat and when you add in other factors like a days worth of partying then the numbers increase. It's sad really because the responsible boaters will eventually have to pay for all the irresponsible ones. With regards to me. I only had 2 all day and it was right before I jumped into the lake with in the 5 mile per hour zone to get away from the wakes and speeding boats. I have no excuse other then my lack of memory and absent mindedness. I have jumped into swimming pools etc w/stuff in my pockets going all the way back to high school. Heck I use to thrash through the swampy trails in Texas on my dirt bikes when I was in high school and would loose all kinds of things. I just like to have good old clean fun.









That is so true, for now...










Boats... ahh







Last weekend I went boating, and almost managed to tip it over, as we were pulling my brother in, and I jumped out to go swim to the tube (tubing), 3 guys were on one side, and I was on the other, balancing it out xD


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *simfreak47*


Boats... ahh







Last weekend I went boating, and almost managed to tip it over, as we were pulling my brother in, and I jumped out to go swim to the tube (tubing), 3 guys were on one side, and I was on the other, balancing it out xD


I would loved to have seen that. LOL


----------



## Kryton

You can do a search with pricewatch.com and see what turns up.
That's how I found a brand-new A7N8X back in 07 years after they were no longer being made.
No guarantees but woudn't hurt to see what's there.
Good Luck with your search.


----------



## BlackOmega

OK fellas, my dark knight arrived today. And I am thoroughly impressed by how truely flat this thing is. It has less variation than the thickness of a piece of paper.

At any rate, I was looking at the fan which is this cool looking clear smoked color and noticed that the fan has a 4 pin connector on it. What the hell am I supposed to hook this thing up to? Can you just plug it in to a 3 pin header and leave one not plugged in?

Looks like I am going to have to go get an adapter of some sort.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


OK fellas, my dark knight arrived today. And I am thoroughly impressed by how truely flat this thing is. It has less variation than the thickness of a piece of paper.

At any rate, I was looking at the fan which is this cool looking clear smoked color and noticed that the fan has a 4 pin connector on it. What the hell am I supposed to hook this thing up to? Can you just plug it in to a 3 pin header and leave one not plugged in?

Looks like I am going to have to go get an adapter of some sort.










Let us know how it works when you get it setup. I've heard a few say it wasn't that great but then again it may work fine for your setup.


----------



## N2Gaming

Omega, you should be just fine using a 4 pin fan molex connector on the 3 pin header on your mobo. Is that the Asus Dark Knight II or the original Dark Knight?

Edit: NVM, I confused the Dark Knight w/the ASUS Silent Knight.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
OK fellas, my dark knight arrived today. And I am thoroughly impressed by how truely flat this thing is. It has less variation than the thickness of a piece of paper.

At any rate, I was looking at the fan which is this cool looking clear smoked color and noticed that the fan has a 4 pin connector on it. What the hell am I supposed to hook this thing up to? Can you just plug it in to a 3 pin header and leave one not plugged in?

Looks like I am going to have to go get an adapter of some sort.









You can plug it into a 3pin header. Has correct markings on it so you can't mess it up.

Also, the extra 4th pin adds in PWM, or Power management.

AKA, you Mobo could control the fan based on settings from the BIOS.


----------



## nategr8ns

I never understood why they added PWM. My MSI board let me set fan speeds at certain temperatures without PWM...

Anyway, I have always had to force the 4-pin fan controller to fit with my 3-pin header, and it bends the flat tab outwards, but it does fit. I'm not sure if maybe its just my AC fan's 4-pin that is thicker or what. I don't know if I explained that well :\\.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Let us know how it works when you get it setup. I've heard a few say it wasn't that great but then again it may work fine for your setup.


 I've read some good reviews on it and Pio highly recommends it. I've read a couple of threads where people have claimed that it does better than a TRUE. From the benches that I've read its within 2*C of the TRUE, and I'm sure it'll be considerably better than the XP120.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Omega, you should be just fine using a 4 pin fan molex connector on the 3 pin header on your mobo. Is that the Asus Dark Knight II or the original Dark Knight?

Edit: NVM, I confused the Dark Knight w/the ASUS Silent Knight.










Its the Xigmatek Darkknight. Basically the same as the HDT-S1283 but just has a really fancy black chrome finish. I was debating whether I should smooth out the heatpipes or not as the machining is not very smooth.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


You can plug it into a 3pin header. Has correct markings on it so you can't mess it up.

Also, the extra 4th pin adds in PWM, or Power management.

AKA, you Mobo could control the fan based on settings from the BIOS.


 IIRC, PWM = pulse width management. 
Thanks I took a closer look at the plug, lo and behold you are correct sir. Thank you









Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


I never understood why they added PWM. My MSI board let me set fan speeds at certain temperatures without PWM...

Anyway, I have always had to force the 4-pin fan controller to fit with my 3-pin header, and it bends the flat tab outwards, but it does fit. I'm not sure if maybe its just my AC fan's 4-pin that is thicker or what. I don't know if I explained that well :\\.


 I understood perfectly


----------



## thlnk3r

BlackOmega, nice purchase buddy. The cooler looks very sleeeek









Good luck

Question: I thought PWM was "pulse width modulation"? Aren't they typically surrounding the socket area?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, nice purchase buddy. The cooler looks very sleeeek









Good luck

Question: I thought PWM was "pulse width modulation"? Aren't they typically surrounding the socket area?



Thanks thinker, it is a very nice looking cooler. I got it installed and well this thing is pretty tall. I wonder if I'll be able to get the side cover on (if I can even find it







).

And







you're right it is modulation. I've been cramming so much Anatomy in my head lately, I swear its going to explode. I just got a test back that I took last week and looked at some of the questions and was like, I knew that? Cuz I sure as hell couldn't answer any of them today.

Maybe its a lack of sleep due to the 6 week old









O yeah (see almost forgot), some results of the new xiggy. Ambient room temp 25.8*C, idle 32/29 dropped by 3*C, 100% load (S&M FPU) 53.7*C. Dropped load temp 11*C+. This is with my current settings of 2640MHz @ 1.29v.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


O yeah (see almost forgot), some results of the new xiggy. Ambient room temp 25.8*C, idle 32/29 dropped by 3*C, 100% load (S&M FPU) 53.7*C. Dropped load temp 11*C+. This is with my current settings of 2640MHz @ 1.29v.


BlackOmega, man that thing is really showing it's colors. Those idle temps are beautiful. That full load temperature is not to shabby as well









Awesome!


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, man that thing is really showing it's colors. Those idle temps are beautiful. That full load temperature is not to shabby as well









Awesome!


The only true downside to the Xiggy is that when you buy it, besides a new fan, you really won't get better temps.

A few of them could be lapped and might get something better out of them. But they all pretty much come in their prime out of the box.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


A few of them could be lapped and might get something better out of them. But they all pretty much come in their prime out of the box.


Tator, interesting points. If one were to lap one of these Xiggy's how much can actually be lapped before one of the heatpipes becomes damaged? I'd assume not very much could be lapped...


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, man that thing is really showing it's colors. Those idle temps are beautiful. That full load temperature is not to shabby as well









Awesome!


 MY 3800x2 idles @ 26 in the same 25.8*C room.









I'm gonna start cranking her up and see what happens.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


The only true downside to the Xiggy is that when you buy it, besides a new fan, you really won't get better temps.

A few of them could be lapped and might get something better out of them. But they all pretty much come in their prime out of the box.


 Yeah, the base is perfectly flat. I couldn't get a piece of paper to go under a flat edge. The only thing that I could see doing to mine is smoothing it. There's a lot of pretty rough machine marks in it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator, interesting points. If one were to lap one of these Xiggy's how much can actually be lapped before one of the heatpipes becomes damaged? I'd assume not very much could be lapped...


 I've read a little about it and most people say dont start with anything lower then 600 grit paper.

EDIT: BRB gonna run er up to 2900 then 3k.

Update: 2903MHz @ 1.344v, idle: 30/33*C. 1.36v loaded: 55/59*C.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


EDIT: BRB gonna run er up to 2900 then 3k.

Update: 2903MHz @ 1.344v, idle: 30/33*C. 1.36v loaded: 55/59*C.


BlackOmega, is this the Opteron 180 that you're overclocking? It's always nice to see the Vcore still at stock after doing a 500Mhz overclock









Good luck


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator, interesting points. If one were to lap one of these Xiggy's how much can actually be lapped before one of the heatpipes becomes damaged? I'd assume not very much could be lapped...


I was able to take a smidge off the bottom of my S1283, but the pipes are damn flat before you get them. And so is the aluminum piece covering the pipes.

The best things you can do for the cooler are buy a retention bracket (if you have an intel setup) & a new fan. The Scythe Gentle Typhoon's & S-Flex series are best for this cooler.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, is this the Opteron 180 that you're overclocking? It's always nice to see the Vcore still at stock after doing a 500Mhz overclock









Good luck


 Yes sir its the 180. It was actually kind of surprising to me that the vcore actually goes up once its loaded because I keep reading about vdroop.

Unfortunately anything over ~2950 and I need to up the vcore considerably to squeeze every last little bit out of it.

I ran S&M at my current settings and it passed with flying colors as I knew it would.

Tator, I was going to say yesterday but forgot, the fan that comes with the Dark knight is actually pretty good, 89 CFM @ 2000 RPM. Which is what I have it running at. I was thinking of attaching my antec on the other side for a push pull, but I think it would be somewhat ineffective as its rated at 10CFM less. ATM, I'm pretty satisfied with it, but I think I might decapitate my 180 pretty soon. Then I can run a much higher 24/7 OC, quite possibly 3.1.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Tator, I was going to say yesterday but forgot, the fan that comes with the Dark knight is actually pretty good, 89 CFM @ 2000 RPM. Which is what I have it running at. I was thinking of attaching my antec on the other side for a push pull, but I think it would be somewhat ineffective as its rated at 10CFM less. ATM, I'm pretty satisfied with it, but I think I might decapitate my 180 pretty soon. Then I can run a much higher 24/7 OC, quite possibly 3.1.


I looked into Push/Pull xiggy awhile back. Its a no go for any more performance.

Even on a 140watt 9950BE it didn't make a difference (besides in the decimal range)

Also, its a good idea to match anything your P/P config. Otherwise one fan will dominate the other, and inevitably cause it to break.

Also, final also for that mater







, the Xiggy's fan has a good CFM/Noise ratio, but the GT/SFlex have better static pressure. Which can cause about a 1*C difference in this case. On things like RAD's or coolers with very tight fin density, its another story, but the Xigmatek's fin density is not that of the Noctua U12P or T.R.U.E.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Yes sir its the 180. It was actually kind of surprising to me that the vcore actually goes up once its loaded because I keep reading about vdroop.

Unfortunately anything over ~2950 and I need to up the vcore considerably to squeeze every last little bit out of it.

I ran S&M at my current settings and it passed with flying colors as I knew it would.

Tator, I was going to say yesterday but forgot, the fan that comes with the Dark knight is actually pretty good, 89 CFM @ 2000 RPM. Which is what I have it running at. I was thinking of attaching my antec on the other side for a push pull, but I think it would be somewhat ineffective as its rated at 10CFM less. ATM, I'm pretty satisfied with it, but I think I might decapitate my 180 pretty soon. Then I can run a much higher 24/7 OC, quite possibly 3.1.

BlackOmega, it's NOT a good idea to run a heatpipe direct-touch heatsink (like any Xiggy) on a topless chip. Why? Because the core die is such a small surface in the middle of the CPU, you'll only be using half (actually less than half) of the heatpipes on the Xigmatek.

It's easy to see what I'm talking about. Look at any picture of a naked chip (I've posted my fair share of these in the thread







), then look at the bottom of any HDT heatsink. The innermost heatpipes would be the only ones touching the core die, but there would also be parts of the heatsink's base that isn't a heatpipe in contact with the core die. This reduces the capacity to cool the naked die significantly (probably to complete ineffectiveness, in my opinion).

I almost ran a naked chip with an Xiggy, but when I understood what I was looking at I immediately didn't go through with it. That's also why my Xigmatek is now pio's property.


----------



## Tator Tot

Joe, while this is correct, you can also re-attach your IHS if you still have it.

You just need something that is nonconductive to do so. I used MX-2 TIM to re-attach the IHS to my Skt 939 3500+. While I can say it's not the best you can do (some industrial compounds can be used, but they are harder to come by) it sure did work out well.

And lapping an IHS with no CPU attached is much easier


----------



## BlackOmega

Good point Joe. Hmm.. do you think lapping it would make a difference? Because as it sits the temps are just too high to get it stable @ anything over 29xx MHz.

Ok since I cant really make a poll on here, I'll just ask: What is the highest core temp allowable at stock 1.35v? I personally dont like taking it over 65*C, but last time I was running S&M I noticed that while my coretemps were ~65*C, the IHS temp is 50*C.

I swear the more I know the more confused I get sometimes.

EDIT: Tator, you can always use RTV silicone gasket maker to reattach it the IHS.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


EDIT: Tator, you can always use RTV silicone gasket maker to reattach it the IHS.


I know, but it's not as cheap or easy to use as MX-2 TIM.

Lapping the IHS could make a little boost in performance. But you could also buy the Thermalright AM2 bolt through kit.

Though, I would assume from most of my experience with the cooler (Q8400, E8400, 9550 Phenom, 9950 Black Edition, 7750 Black Edition, & x2 4000+ Windsor) that most of the fancier methods of using the cooler don't give a performance boost if any at all.

I've used the bolt through, new fans, & lapping. After all of it, I was down almost 2*C (1.8-2*C as it was in flux with digital thermometer)

Though, I haven't tried doing all the fancy stuff to my 7750BE, or 4000+, but it was the same across the board between E84, Q84, 9550, & 9950.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 

Ok since I cant really make a poll on here, I'll just ask: What is the highest core temp allowable at stock 1.35v? I personally dont like taking it over 65*C, but last time I was running S&M I noticed that while my coretemps were ~65*C, the IHS temp is 50*C.

I swear the more I know the more confused I get sometimes.

EDIT: Tator, you can always use RTV silicone gasket maker to reattach it the IHS.

I've done this before to a San Diego I had that was running hot all the time, then realized the cooler I had woudn't work with it.
Used Black Form-A-Gasket to redo the seal after using AS5 on the inside and it did help but still ran hot.
I also noted when I removed the top, the factory TIM wasn't making a good contact pattern with the lid and believe that was the main reason for the temp problems it had. Temps were better afterwards but the chip still wanted to run warm compared to the other chips like it I had.

You're hitting 65c at 1.35v? Something is wrong there - Gotta be. For the record, I never like seeing my chips go over 50c for any reason. Thats what my 165 does but after trying it with my watercooling setup, temps went down dramatically.
I was glad to see that!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


I've done this before to a San Diego I had that was running hot all the time, then realized the cooler I had woudn't work with it. 
Used Black Form-A-Gasket to redo the seal after using AS5 on the inside and it did help but still ran hot.

You're hitting 65c at 1.35v? Something is wrong there - Gotta be. For the record, I never like seeing my chips go over 50c for any reason. Thats what my 165 does but after trying it with my watercooling setup, temps went down dramatically. 
I was glad to see that!


 No @ 1.35v It hits _maybe_ 61*C (using coretemp), using smartguardian ~50*C. But from what I gather, smartguardian gets its reading from the BIOS which is IHS temp and coretemp measures the actual cores. The difference between the 2 is as much as 15*C under load.

And I was hitting 65*C @ 1.43v. I was playing around with my fan configuration in my case. Making the front top fan an intake and the rear an exhaust, etc. Trying to get better cooling to the PWM IC's. While it did help PWM IC and NB temps (~3*C) it actually made my CPU temp worse. 
So I have yet again removed them.


----------



## Blitz6804

Remember Tator, cooling systems can only go so far. Another big part of cooling is the ambient temperatures. No matter how much better Joe's cooling system is than mine, my idle and load temperatures will almost always be lower given solely my lower ambient temperature.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


No @ 1.35v It hits _maybe_ 61*C (using coretemp), using smartguardian ~50*C. But from what I gather, smartguardian gets its reading from the BIOS which is IHS temp and coretemp measures the actual cores. The difference between the 2 is as much as 15*C under load.

And I was hitting 65*C @ 1.43v. I was playing around with my fan configuration in my case. Making the front top fan an intake and the rear an exhaust, etc. Trying to get better cooling to the PWM IC's. While it did help PWM IC and NB temps (~3*C) it actually made my CPU temp worse. 
So I have yet again removed them.


Then looks like you're OK then. 
Since setting this up with watercooling here, I've had some great temps with my CPUs but some stability issues with the board itself. 
Believe it to be PWM temps since now I really don't have alot of airflow going through the case at the moment but I do have a 120mm fan blowing on my RAM and in the PWM area. I'm working to get it better and more stable since for now, it passed a 1hr run in OCCT at 2800MHz but failed at 2900MHz inspite of CPU temps never going over 28C @ 1.400v according to my temp monitor. There are still a few areas I need to get airflow going to other than where it's at now and will do some things to get that setup, then do another stability test.

Once I get all the wrinkles smoothed out, I'll go for a high speed stability test. Posted a pic below of how I have things setup for this extra airflow for now. You'll note what else is present too - The 120mm fan is behind the rad where you can't see it but it's there.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Then looks like you're OK then. 
Since setting this up with watercooling here, I've had some great temps with my CPUs but some stability issues with the board itself. 
Believe it to be PWM temps since now I really don't have alot of airflow going through the case at the moment but I do have a 120mm fan blowing on my RAM and in the PWM area. I'm working to get it better and more stable since for now, it passed a 1hr run in OCCT at 2800MHz but failed at 2900MHz inspite of CPU temps never going over 28C @ 1.400v according to my temp monitor. There are still a few areas I need to get airflow going to other than where it's at now and will do some things to get that setup, then do another stability test.

Once I get all the wrinkles smoothed out, I'll go for a high speed stability test. Posted a pic below of how I have things setup for this extra airflow for now. You'll note what else is present too - The 120mm fan is behind the rad where you can't see it but it's there.


 Kryton, I personally have found OCCT, Prime 95 and Orthos to be one and the same and not really good for testing a 939. Personally, I run nothing but S&M (you can find a link on the first page of this thread), be warned of the dreaded FPU test, then I run a barrage of other things like running 3dmark, Crysis benchmark and just simply gaming. 
In my experience, some of my overclocks fail OCCT/prime/orthos yet pass S&M and have no stability issues.

Im wondering if there's a way to actively cool the PWM IC's. During my last stress test they were getting pretty warm, 52*C IIRC. I'm thinking of mounting another front intake fan to not only supply fresh air for the CPU but also hit the PWM IC heatsinks at the proper angle.


----------



## Kryton

I guess we're in the same boat right now related to PWM temps. I have some spare fans I'm going to setup to getting more air moving where I'd like for it to and see how it does.

Downloaded S&M and also found a program called CPU Damage I'll use to see how much stress it can put on the system and temps it hits.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Im wondering if there's a way to actively cool the PWM IC's. During my last stress test they were getting pretty warm, 52*C IIRC. I'm thinking of mounting another front intake fan to not only supply fresh air for the CPU but also hit the PWM IC heatsinks at the proper angle.


BlackOmega, I noticed a huge improvement over my PWM temperatures when I reversed the fans that are located on top of my case. I turned them around so they would intake instead of exhausting. It doesn't appear your Centurion 590 has any top exhaust ports though









During stress testing with Orthos they would never go above 40C-42C with a 26C room ambient.

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

You could always just strap a fan (or even something like the Antec Spot-Cool) anywhere near the PWM ICs.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, I noticed a huge improvement over my PWM temperatures when I reversed the fans that are located on top of my case. I turned them around so they would intake instead of exhausting. It doesn't appear your Centurion 590 has any top exhaust ports though









During stress testing with Orthos they would never go above 40C-42C with a 26C room ambient.

Good luck



Actually I can mount up to 2 140mm fans up there









But I think the issue at that point become that either I'm bringing hot air back in to the system or theres an airflow conflict with the CPU fan, that Im using in a push configuration. 
Aside from that the way the heatsinks are, it only hits the upper most one and the rest dont really get any good airflow.


----------



## Hueristic

IF you guys wanna go "balls to the Walls" on your Power management cooling the best way is to remove the IC's and stand them upright and heatsink the backside of them.

Edit: Woops forgot, Many new VRM's actually disipate better from the front now so I would recommend

1. research your VRM and Cool appropriately
or
2. Hs both sides after standing them up.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
*Joe, while this is correct, you can also re-attach your IHS if you still have it.*

You just need something that is nonconductive to do so. I used MX-2 TIM to re-attach the IHS to my Skt 939 3500+. While I can say it's not the best you can do (some industrial compounds can be used, but they are harder to come by) it sure did work out well.

And lapping an IHS with no CPU attached is much easier









True.

But this rather negates the whole point of taking the IHS off of the CPU, though, doesn't it?


----------



## nategr8ns

speaking of removing IHSes... I was disassembling an old Gateway we've had for a while to check specs on the processor. It turned out to be a 478 P4 1.8ghz.
I pulled the heatsink off, which also ended up pulling the processor out. It was on there pretty good with a ton of rock-hard thermal adhesive. I spent a long time attack it with acetone and exacto blades, as well as prying the processor off.
I ended up prying the processor off with the IHS still attached to the heatsink







.
The IHS was very thick though, so I couldn't remount the processor without it (without a lot of modding to the heatsink retention mechanism).
Pain in the butt day for me.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
True.

But this rather negates the whole point of taking the IHS off of the CPU, though, doesn't it?
















That's more or less relative. If you have one of the newer H.D.T. coolers (Heatpipe direct touch), then it is better to re-attach the IHS.

From my understanding, the whole reason to remove the IHS before, was so that all the flat base coolers could make direct contact with the core, and thus remove heat better. But this doesn't work the same with HDT coolers.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
That's more or less relative. If you have one of the newer H.D.T. coolers (Heatpipe direct touch), then it is better to re-attach the IHS.

From my understanding, the whole reason to remove the IHS before, was so that all the flat base coolers could make direct contact with the core, and thus remove heat better. *But this doesn't work the same with HDT coolers.*

Which was my point from the outset.


----------



## BlackOmega

The HDT might work pretty well for a single core as the chip is pretty small.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


I guess we're in the same boat right now related to PWM temps. I have some spare fans I'm going to setup to getting more air moving where I'd like for it to and see how it does.

Downloaded S&M and also found a program called CPU Damage I'll use to see how much stress it can put on the system and temps it hits.


 I DID IT! I mounted a spare 120mm fan relatively close inside the case to get it to blow in an ever so slight angle toward the board and ever so slightly upwards so the incoming air contacts as much of the heatsinks as possible. (See attached pic for airflow & my awesome photoshopping skills). 
My results are very good to say the least. Idling PWM IC 36*C, dropped by 10*C, it even lowered my NB temps by 5*C so NB idling & loaded 40/41*C. Loaded PWM IC never saw over 45*C, an improvement of 11*C.

Kryton, I was looking at your case and it looks like you'll really need to get your cable management under control as it appears from the pic that all of your heatsinks are covered up by wiring. 
And dont forget about the 1 heatsink over the floppy connector.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Actually I can mount up to 2 140mm fans up there


BlackOmega, blehhh why did I trust Newegg to describe the correct fan orientation







. Sorry about that. How come you don't have any fans up there though?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I DID IT! I mounted a spare 120mm fan relatively close inside the case to get it to blow in an ever so slight angle toward the board and ever so slightly upwards so the incoming air contacts as much of the heatsinks as possible. (See attached pic for airflow & my awesome photoshopping skills). 
My results are very good to say the least. Idling PWM IC 36*C, dropped by 10*C, it even lowered my NB temps by 5*C so NB idling & loaded 40/41*C. Loaded PWM IC never saw over 45*C, an improvement of 11*C.


Awesome! I was actually going to ask you if you could post a inside picture of your wire management as well. My DFI board has the same PWM heatsink orientation and I've battled those temperatures for a while. I think the main problem with cooling the PWM is that it's located right next to the IDE ports and 24-pin power connector. If the fans in the front are intaking then I'm assuming those cables may indirectly effect the airflow. I also think the heatsinks are just directly touching the PWM without any type of thermal compound or thermal pad. Could this be a issue too? Not sure...

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

I know when I was running the opty 180 in the nf4 sli dr those things heated up w/out any overclocking and when I started pushing oc's then they got up there pretty good. I was able to get them cooled down w/a ghetto mod fan set up but would prefer to have a couple of antec spot coolers positioned right in front of them blowing towards the cpu.


----------



## thlnk3r

N2Gaming, yeah they get extremely hot during full load testing. I remember them getting up to 50C easy. Right now with my 25C room ambient they are idling at 37C. My chipset use to be around 42C but after switching to the Antec 900 I got the idle temperatures down to 34C


----------



## MrAMD_Fan

Nice thread!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrAMD_Fan*


Nice thread!


MrAMD_Fan, thanks for dropping by









You are welcome to join the club if you would like. All we need from you is a CPU-Z validation. Once I have that I can put your name on the member roster!


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I DID IT! I mounted a spare 120mm fan relatively close inside the case to get it to blow in an ever so slight angle toward the board and ever so slightly upwards so the incoming air contacts as much of the heatsinks as possible. (See attached pic for airflow & my awesome photoshopping skills).
My results are very good to say the least. Idling PWM IC 36*C, dropped by 10*C, it even lowered my NB temps by 5*C so NB idling & loaded 40/41*C. Loaded PWM IC never saw over 45*C, an improvement of 11*C.

Kryton, I was looking at your case and it looks like you'll really need to get your cable management under control as it appears from the pic that all of your heatsinks are covered up by wiring.
And dont forget about the 1 heatsink over the floppy connector.

Good to see you managed to solve that problem.

The pic I posted is deceptive due to the angle it was taken. Nothing is covering any heatsinks and they all have access to airflow. I'll admit the cabling could be better and will work on that as I have time to make things better.
Still thinking about a larger rad for getting more internal cooling going here and have an idea how I could pull it off.
If it works, I'll postup.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, blehhh why did I trust Newegg to describe the correct fan orientation







. Sorry about that. How come you don't have any fans up there though?


That's why I never read the description, I just look at the pics and read the specs.









When I had a cooler that was parallel to the board I had one up there in the front one as an exhaust, to direct the flow of air to go over the PWM heat sinks.
Then after I put the dark knight in there, it blows almost directly at the rear fan so no air flow. So I put an intake in the front spot and an exhaust in the rear spot. It actually had little effect on PWM temps. And it caused some sort of turbulence within the case and my CPU temps went up ~3*C. So I removed them.
Now I have basically 3 120mm fans all lined up. And now my idle temps are even better, PWM 34*C NB 38*C







.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Awesome! I was actually going to ask you if you could post a inside picture of your wire management as well. My DFI board has the same PWM heatsink orientation and I've battled those temperatures for a while. I think the main problem with cooling the PWM is that it's located right next to the IDE ports and 24-pin power connector. If the fans in the front are intaking then I'm assuming those cables may indirectly effect the airflow. I also think the heatsinks are just directly touching the PWM without any type of thermal compound or thermal pad. Could this be a issue too? Not sure...

Good luck

The PWM IC surface maybe just so rough that a TIM would be of little or no effect.
And yeah the PWM IC's are definitely in a bad spot. I think my next purchase will be a SATA DVD combo drive. That'll definitely clean my case up a little more.
And here's a pic, the cables are still a mess as I keep messing with this thing all the time, hell I can't even find the side panels


----------



## Hueristic

ASUS A8N-SLI Bios Mod @ NGOHQ.com

Quote:



Are you stuck with an old ASUS A8N-SLI (Non-Deluxe and Deluxe) motherboard? If you are, then we have some good news for you. As you probably know, ASUS has stopped releasing BIOS updates for these motherboards. The last BIOS update was at the end of 2005. We've discovered that it's possible to flash the Premium BIOS on the normal A8N-SLI motherboard, or even the deluxe version.


http://www.ngohq.com/news/7431-asus-...ohq-com-9.html


----------



## Blitz6804

Regards PWMs: This is why I personally will not use a tower cooler. Changing from my Zalman CNPS9500LED to my Thermalright SI-128 my PWM temperature dropped several degrees. Joe has had the misfortune of having a TRU-120e kill an Asus due to PWM heat if I remember right.


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz, I think it depends on the board layout. My SI-128 doesn't really provide any cooling for my PWM's


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Regards PWMs: This is why I personally will not use a tower cooler. Changing from my Zalman CNPS9500LED to my Thermalright SI-128 my PWM temperature dropped several degrees. Joe has had the misfortune of having a TRU-120e kill an Asus due to PWM heat if I remember right.


The A8n32's heat pipes actually work surprisingly well. But my experience with the board it needs to have another fan blowing at the mobo tray to keep the PWM's cool. 
Even when I had that tornado fan on my cooler it didn't help with mobo temps. Helped with NB temps though.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Even when I had that tornado fan on my cooler it didn't help with mobo temps. Helped with NB temps though.


BlackOmega, yeah that is weird. I was telling Joe about this a few weeks ago. I put some of that aluminum tape on the sides of my SI-128 to help the airflow. Weird thing is I don't even feel any air coming from the bottom of the heatsink. Even when I had my Delta 120mm installed I didn't feel anything either. Idle and load temperatures are great though.

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, yeah that is weird. I was telling Joe about this a few weeks ago. I put some of that aluminum tape on the sides of my SI-128 to help the airflow. Weird thing is I don't even feel any air coming from the bottom of the heatsink. Even when I *had my Delta 120mm installed* I didn't feel anything either. Idle and load temperatures are great though.

Good luck

Didn't happen to be this one did it?







66dB









The fan that I've found most effective is the front 80mm intake fan on the front of my vento. Its mounted parallel to the board by the lower right hand corner. Makes the air travel up and across the heatsinks. Works surprisingly well.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Didn't happen to be this one did it?







66dB

BlackOmega, heck no it wasn't that powerful









I think it was around 120CFM and 50'ish db.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Didn't happen to be this one did it?







66dB










 That sounds like the kind of fans they use in the NASA Ames Research Center







That would be right next to the now closed Moffett field. I use to live on the other side of the bay from there.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
That sounds like the kind of fans they use in the NASA Ames Research Center







That would be right next to the now closed Moffett field. I use to live on the other side of the bay from there.

I heard that Nitteo was going to launch his new [email protected] farm inside of one of those, once his new business got off the ground.


----------



## N2Gaming

That don't sound cheap at all...







$$$$$$$$


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, heck no it wasn't that powerful









I think it was around 120CFM and 50'ish db.

I don't miss my tornado at all. ~55dB thats just too much. ~35dB is doable. One of these days I'll build an ultra quiet rig









Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
That sounds like the kind of fans they use in the NASA Ames Research Center







That would be right next to the now closed Moffett field. I use to live on the other side of the bay from there.

Dude I want one of those. I would do um..... stuff with it. Aerodynamic testing on myself









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
I heard that Nitteo was going to launch his new [email protected] farm inside of one of those, once his new business got off the ground.

I bet barnettworks servers produced that much airflow


----------



## N2Gaming

BO









ALL, I stumbled upon this link to many 939 cpu's. I clicked on the first cpu in the list x2 3800 and then looked at the stores list and he has a bazillion cpu's listed for 939







just in case any one needs a cpu.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
BO









ALL, I stumbled upon this link to many 939 cpu's. I clicked on the first cpu in the list x2 3800 and then looked at the stores list and he has a bazillion cpu's listed for 939







just in case any one needs a cpu.

WOW @ THOSE PRICES!

Nice find man!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
WOW @ THOSE PRICES!

Nice find man!









+1









I clicked on the link to his store and cant seem to find the rest. Just some 3500+'s for $55


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
+1









I clicked on the link to his store and cant seem to find the rest. Just some 3500+'s for $55









If you click on a link listed below in the list each one comes up w/different stores w/different listed cpu's for diff prices types etc. It's just to bad all I can do is window shop.









Here is a link to the first store from the first link

Edit: has any one seen the game trailer to COD Modern Warfare 2 yet or is it old news already?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Dude I want one of those. I would do um..... stuff with it. Aerodynamic testing on myself









ROFL I missed that at first glance I have a pic I'll send you in exchange for the nice silverbullet girls. lol


----------



## Drogum

Thanks for this forum. Just reactivated a MSI K8N Neo2 and +3200 S939 today. Lots of great info located here. Haven't had a real chance to OC the thing yet but here is the CPUZ links to let me join the club.->



Anyone here using the MSI K8N? Any issues with bios supporting the newer AGP video cards? I have a Sapphire x1600 pro 512 that just won't run on this board. I've installed the lastest bios from Polygon over at Rebels Have forums -> 7025v1d0.xxx but still no joy. Any ideas?

Thanks again for the info.


----------



## Blitz6804

I believe txtmstrjoe has, but do not quote me on that. I will add you to the off-site roster later today, thlnk3r or txtmstrjoe will add you to the on-site roster sometime later as well.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Please welcome our newest member, Drogum!









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Drogum* 
Anyone here using the MSI K8N? Any issues with bios supporting the newer AGP video cards? I have a Sapphire x1600 pro 512 that just won't run on this board. I've installed the lastest bios from Polygon over at Rebels Have forums -> 7025v1d0.xxx but still no joy. Any ideas?

Thanks again for the info.

Unfortunately, I haven't ever used an MSI S939 board. Come to think of it, I've never owned any MSI motherboard.

That's a strange issue, though, for the board to not support a Sapphire Radeon X1600 Pro; that's hardly a "newer" AGP video card. Have you got another AGP video card you can test with, to see if the problem is with the board or BIOS? Alternatively, if you can try the Sapphire in another AGP motherboard you can possibly rule out the video card as the problem.

At any rate, good luck. And please keep us updated with your troubleshooting.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Drogum* 
Anyone here using the MSI K8N? Any issues with bios supporting the newer AGP video cards? I have a Sapphire x1600 pro 512 that just won't run on this board. I've installed the lastest bios from Polygon over at Rebels Have forums -> 7025v1d0.xxx but still no joy. Any ideas?

Drogum, welcome to the club









When powering on the computer are you receiving any beep codes? Is there any display at all?

Good luck


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Drogum* 
Thanks for this forum. Just reactivated a MSI K8N Neo2 and +3200 S939 today. Lots of great info located here. Haven't had a real chance to OC the thing yet but here is the CPUZ links to let me join the club.->



Anyone here using the MSI K8N? Any issues with bios supporting the newer AGP video cards? I have a Sapphire x1600 pro 512 that just won't run on this board. I've installed the lastest bios from Polygon over at Rebels Have forums -> 7025v1d0.xxx but still no joy. Any ideas?

Thanks again for the info.

Which one?
http://www.msi.com/index.php?func=pr...e&maincat_no=1


----------



## Drogum

Got an old nvidia MX4000 running which I'm using to write this post from the machine in question. I dropped the x1600 in a buddy's AGP Mobo and it fired up no problem. This is the first and last MSi board I'll get, too many flaky horror stories over the years despite the folks who manage to get a good board and OC the hell out of them!. Asus has treated me well over the years thru 6 different builds, nothing but them from now on. Got a p5n-d with a Q9400 OC'd at 3.2ghz for the main PC, not shabby for the "bad overclocking 750 chipset"
Too bad about Abit, another good vendor gone by the wayside.
Anyone have any recommendations on a AGP GPU that would work on this board for a HTPC unit? Guess ATI is the way to go toget the HDMI audio pass thru. Suggestions????


----------



## Blitz6804

I used an HD 3850 AGP. It is more expensive than an HD 3850 PCIe, but I can tell you I noticed no performance difference between the two. (My AGP board died, replaced with PCIe; performance was identical.)


----------



## BlackOmega

Last AGP card I bought was a BFG Geforce 6200OC. Still lives in my old Dell, the video performance wasn't that bad at all. Too bad the rest of the machine is slower than molasses on a cold day.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Drogum* 
Got an old nvidia MX4000 running which I'm using to write this post from the machine in question. I dropped the x1600 in a buddy's AGP Mobo and it fired up no problem.

Drogum, are you running the "K8N Neo2 Platinum" motherboard or the "K8N-Neo-F" board? The first thing that comes to mind is perhaps the voltage of the agp card. I know some older cards were not compatible with a 1.5volt AGP slots. From what I've checked out both the MSI boards listed above support 1.5v AGP cards. I doubt your X1600 Pro is 3.3volts but I thought I'd just throw that thought out there.

Have you tested 1600 Pro with a different power supply? Did you plug in the additional power connectors to the video card?

Good luck


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Drogum* 
Anyone have any recommendations on a AGP GPU that would work on this board for a HTPC unit? Guess ATI is the way to go toget the HDMI audio pass thru. Suggestions????

Honestly, any of these would make GREAT HTPC video cards







. All are AGP (that I linked) as well







.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Honestly, any of these would make GREAT HTPC video cards







. All are AGP (that I linked) as well







.


Any of the HD2000 cards will work as well.

The lowest one is 15$ cheaper.

Also, FYI, HD2400 = HD3450. It's the same GPU, just a die shrink from 65nm to 55nm.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Any of the HD2000 cards will work as well.

The lowest one is 15$ cheaper.

Also, FYI, HD2400 = HD3450. It's the same GPU, just a die shrink from 65nm to 55nm.


Yes, but the HD3xxx series cards can handle 1080i/p through hardware....so I always recommend those when I can for HTPC use







.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Yes, but the HD3xxx series cards can handle 1080i/p through hardware....so I always recommend those when I can for HTPC use







.


So does the HD2000 series GPU's.

They are the exact same. HD3000 was only made so they could tweak the RV600 (2900Xt) so it was more power efficient with greater performance and higher clocks (HD3870)

The 2600Xt got a die shrink (and ended up sucking because of it) and was turned into the HD3650. Which is more or less equal to HD2600pro GDDR3 because of the reduced core clock.

And HD2400 was turned into the HD3450.


----------



## BlackOmega

Well guys I think my rig sort of fixed itself. I've been too lazy to hook up my Antec for testing, so I just left as it was. And now I don't need to cycle the PSU anymore before I start it up. And the RAM LED isn't even on









At any rate, with the NB cooler I got from Nate (thanks bro







, your heat sink is on its way), I'm going to SLI mod one of my Ultra-D boards and see if it works with my 6800's







, I'll keep you guys posted.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
They are the exact same. HD3000 was only made so they could tweak the RV600 (2900Xt) so it was more power efficient with greater performance and higher clocks (HD3870)

Tator, was the 3870 a variant of the 2900XT? Wasn't the 3000 series the first to get the 55nm die shrink with stream processors? I use to be able to keep up with video cards back when it was just the 9800 Pro series...not anymore


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Tator, was the 3870 a variant of the 2900XT? Wasn't the 3000 series the first to get the 55nm die shrink with stream processors? I use to be able to keep up with video cards back when it was just the 9800 Pro series...not anymore









The HD38xx cards were the same GPU core(R600) as the HD2900 series.

When the HD2900Xt hit, it was a beast of a card. But it suffered from 80nm tech & 512bit bus, which equated to a huge heat output.

When nVidia developed the G92 core (8800GT/8800GTS/8800GS) ATi responded with the HD3870, which was a simple die modification & shrink. They went through, changed the bus width to 256bit, kept GDDR4, increased the texture fill rate (marginally) & boosted the clocks on the card. But SP count stayed the same. It had the same number of ROPs. But they did a marginal increase to the Pixel fill rate as well.

But in the end, it just ended up being a 2900Xt with the die shrunk (80nm - 55nm) with a clock increase. But at this time, it proved to not be enough, and still suffered from the R600's lack of AA & AF strength. So when those items were increased, it still performed like an HD2900Xt and got bogged down, loosing FPS at a quick rate. Much more than it's competitor The 9800GT.

Though, they did learn that with Crossfire & its API structure, they could make up this downfall with onboard Crossfire (HD3870x2) and came back swinging, making a better card then the nVidia top dogs of the time (8800GTS G92 & 8800 ULTRA)

Hope that answered your question well enough.

But to put it simply.
HD3450 = HD2400
HD3650 = HD2600pro
HD3850 = HD2900pro
HD3870 = HD2900Xt

More or less. The obvious performance increases were outlined in the HD38xx to HD2900.

But it's what they did with the HD4890, they took the RV770 GPU chip, and tweaked it, to produce a better GPU.


----------



## thlnk3r

Tator, thanks for answering my question. Some interesting information there!

OT: Did you get your drives back for your md3000? That reminded me because just yesterday I unpacked a brand new md1000 with (15) 15k 300GB sas drives. Came with a pretty perc 6/i controller


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator, thanks for answering my question. Some interesting information there!

OT: Did you get your drives back for your md3000? That reminded me because just yesterday I unpacked a brand new md1000 with (15) 15k 300GB sas drives. Came with a pretty perc 6/i controller










(ATi cards) I know much about the GPU's, as it has always been an area of concern for me. Back when we had Pixel Pipes & such, I was always on the lookout for a way to turn GPU X into GPU Z.

Then I learned the ways of marketing/rebranding with the intro of SPUs & SPs..

More or less, an area of focus for me, to make sure I did not get pillaged by either company.

Mobo's & CPU's are a bit easier to compare, but between rebranding, Core tweaking, and general performance, it's hard to choose what you want GPU wise.

A little known fact, the 8800GTX/ULTRA is still a top performing GPU. It has a large heat output, but can match the 9800GTX+/GTS 250 in performance. Which is quiet impressive for a card that is almost 3 years old now (in november)

@your OT, Not yet. I had an understandable delay. It was believed that 2 drives of the batch were bad (from a known bad batch of drives) so they held the order, and are checking all the drives, to make sure the versions I have are not bad.

So I'm more or less happy. I'd be pissed if I got some 15k SAS drives that were DOA (check the prices and you'd know why.)

But I did pick up a Dell BROADCOM NetXtreme II Gigabit NIC. 27$ shipped w/ insurance & 1yr warranty....

God bless Dell Server stuff... Me, You, & Duckie Ho should start a club


----------



## Hueristic

AFA the AGP HTPC card, IIRC the 2XXX we power hogs that ran super hot so that should influence your choice.

BTW I've used my AGP 850pro (never even had to unlock to 16 pipes) and it handled all HTPC duties(up to 720i) fine. that was on a dual PIII even.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 

I did pick up a Dell BROADCOM NetXtreme II Gigabit NIC. 27$ shipped w/ insurance & 1yr warranty....

God bless Dell Server stuff... Me, You, & Duckie Ho should start a club









Interesting, Does that nic actually allow the data streams and overall system performance to run quicker due to the 20% offload from the main cpu to the nic's cpu? I just seen one on fleabay and I think it's the same nic. Looks like a good thing.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


But I did pick up a Dell BROADCOM NetXtreme II Gigabit NIC. 27$ shipped w/ insurance & 1yr warranty....


Tator, that price is ridiculous. We have to buy "brand" new so the price for us is...well much higher then that









Good luck with the drives, hope they arrive when working order!


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


AFA the AGP HTPC card, IIRC the 2XXX we power hogs that ran super hot so that should influence your choice.

BTW I've used my AGP 850pro (never even had to unlock to 16 pipes) and it handled all HTPC duties(up to 720i) fine. that was on a dual PIII even.


My 2600pro runs @ 30*C with room ambient of 25*C

Only the HD2900 cards were hot. They had an 80nm tech, while the HD2400 & HD2600 used 65nm.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Interesting, Does that nic actually allow the data streams and overall system performance to run quicker due to the 20% offload from the main cpu to the nic's cpu? I just seen one on fleabay and I think it's the same nic. Looks like a good thing.










Check out this post of mine on the topic

Overall, I'm very happy with the $$/Performance of the NX II, though I would suggest having a board with PCIe 4x slot open (or x16 if you don't have a 4x slot)

You also want to make sure you are buying the Broadcom NetXtreme II with the product number of 430-2480
And not
430-1793

The 1793 does not have iSCSI offloading (AKA iSOE) It does have TOE (AKA TCIP offloading) but it's also an earlier version that runs hotter. And thus I would recommend if you find a 1793 for cheap, to put a fan on it or small heatsink.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Interesting, Does that nic actually allow the data streams and overall system performance to run quicker due to the 20% offload from the main cpu to the nic's cpu? I just seen one on fleabay and I think it's the same nic. Looks like a good thing.










Does it has a Large cache? Sorry too lazy to research but that would be my guess, Sounds like that NET card EVGA is pushing minus the teamspeak stuff.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


My 2600pro runs @ 30*C with room ambient of 25*C

*Only the HD2900 cards were hot.* They had an 80nm tech, while the HD2400 & HD2600 used 65nm.

Check out this post of mine on the topic

Overall, I'm very happy with the $$/Performance of the NX II, though I would suggest having a board with PCIe 4x slot open (or x16 if you don't have a 4x slot)

You also want to make sure you are buying the Broadcom NetXtreme II with the product number of 430-2480
And not
430-1793

The 1793 does not have iSCSI offloading (AKA iSOE) It does have TOE (AKA TCIP offloading) but it's also an earlier version that runs hotter. And thus I would recommend if you find a 1793 for cheap, to put a fan on it or small heatsink.


Thx for the clarification, I seem to be more forgetful everyday.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Does it has a Large cache? Sorry too lazy to research but that would be my guess, Sounds like that NET card EVGA is pushing minus the teamspeak stuff.

Thx for the clarification, I seem to be more forgetful everyday.










It's ok. It's a bit of a specialty of mine. I've owned most of the HD2000 cards.

As for the Broadcom NetXtreme II, it has 128mb cache. I'm not sure what type of RAM that is.

The card that EVGA is pushing out, is a much nicer card, but not for the $$/Performance.

My third NX II should show up tomorrow. I currently have 1 in my sig rig, & 1 in my file box.

I'm going to add the NX II to another box of mine.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator, that price is ridiculous. We have to buy "brand" new so the price for us is...well much higher then that









Good luck with the drives, hope they arrive when working order!


IIRC, they are 80$ + shipping for the PCIe x4 version?

I try to get Dell Server stuff second hand when I can, because it's usually 50% cheaper.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator, that price is ridiculous. *We have to buy "brand" new so the price for us is*...well much higher then that









Good luck with the drives, hope they arrive when working order!


Sorry don't quite understand what you mean by this. Who is "us" and why do you have to buy brand new?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Sorry don't quite understand what you mean by this. Who is "us" and why do you have to buy brand new?


IIRC, He works for a company that uses dell server equipment, so the "us" is the company he works for. And obviously, most companies won't buy second hand.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


IIRC, they are 80$ + shipping for the PCIe x4 version?

I try to get Dell Server stuff second hand when I can, because it's usually 50% cheaper.


Tator, we usually go with the Intel PRO 1000PT Dual Port cards. They are about $130 a piece. Dell part number 313-4439. Not sure how hefty they are but they seem pretty reliable. VMWare (with us) usually uses the discrete NIC's for Windows load balancing.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator, we usually go with the Intel PRO 1000PT Dual Port cards. They are about $130 a piece. Dell part number 313-4439. Not sure how hefty they are but they seem pretty reliable. VMWare (with us) usually uses the discrete NIC's for Windows load balancing.


The Intel PRO 1000PT DP NIC's are very nice.

Performance wise, the NX II is actually a bit better. But it's only a single port. And the Intel PRO cards come in LP as a standard. So it's much easier to use.


----------



## Hueristic

Here's 3 for $30 a pop, If I still gamed I'd grab them.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Broadcom-5708-Ne...3%3A1|294%3A50


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Here's 3 for $30 a pop, If I still gamed I'd grab them.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Broadcom-5708-NetXtreme-II-PCI-e-x4-Gigabit-NIC-R9002_W0QQitemZ120427926931QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_D efaultDomain_0?hash=item1c0a105593&_trksid=p3286.c 0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12|66%3A2|39%3A1|72%3A1205|24 0%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50


If you do big downloads, I would grab one.

They've helped my torrenting a large amount.

I used to get some high/er CPU usage when I was downloading Ubuntu RCs (around 4gb ISO's)

But with this thing installed, it's nothing. The difference was 5% CPU usage, down to 0%.

Which is much nicer.

It also increases the speed of your internet, in a sense atleast.

It bypasses the windows default method of packet transfers, normally windows will try to assemble 8 packages, and then allow you to process them.

Most dedicated NICs actually allow you to process each packet individually.


----------



## Blitz6804

What is the advantage to using one of those as compared to the integrated NIC on the motherboard?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


What is the advantage to using one of those as compared to the integrated NIC on the motherboard?


Lower CPU usage. Better packet management. Faster/More Responsive internet. Reduced ping in some games.

It's all relative to what you are doing, but the performance difference can be from 5-30%.

In large torrented files, I can see a performance difference of almost 30% in speed increase. And a drop in CPU usage from 5% to 0%


----------



## Blitz6804

Reviews I have seen of the K1ller NIC (I think that is the name) show that pings were noticeably higher with the card than with the integrated. Is this a flaw of just that card then?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Reviews I have seen of the K1ller NIC (I think that is the name) show that pings were noticeably higher with the card than with the integrated. Is this a flaw of just that card then?


I do believe that was do to faulty drivers.

I have never used the card, so I can't say for sure.


----------



## thlnk3r

Really though any network interface card that is not "onboard" will off load some cpu usage. That's just a given...now the difference between ping times and download speeds I'm unsure of...


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Really though any network interface card that is not "onboard" will off load some cpu usage. That's just a given...now the difference between ping times and download speeds I'm unsure of...

It's all relative to what you are doing, and what level of operations an application supports.

Some games (very few) like WoW have an old network arcitechture which actually causes your ping to rise.

Though, if you are downloading large files (like W7 RC2) via Java, HTTP, FTP, or P2P clients, you will not get heavy ping spikes because the dedicated NIC handles large data transfers easily.

It's on an application to application basis. But for the most part, almost every game I play or have played actually benefited from a dedicated NIC.


----------



## Blitz6804

What I think is a better fit for my needs (at present) is a gigabit router. I have already on several occasions completely saturated the bandwidth of this router (100Base-T) and all connected computers already have 1000Base-T ethernet ports.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
What I think is a better fit for my needs (at present) is a gigabit router. I have already on several occasions completely saturated the bandwidth of this router (100Base-T) and all connected computers already have 1000Base-T ethernet ports.

For home networking, gigabit is a must, at the curret size of media that is stored, and the bandwidth it taxes.

Though, to reap the benefits of a 1gigabit home network, you'll need all your NIC's to be gigabit.

I also suggest that you use Cat6e cabling. Cat5e is graded up to 1gigabit, but I really took that with a grain of salt, and did what most suggest, and used Cat6.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, Cat5e is not sufficient for gigabit networking. Given the cost to do so (3 Cat6 cables and a gigabit / 802.11 N router) I have been kept in the realm of 100Base-T / Super-G MIMO.


----------



## Hueristic

Need better cooling on my 165. What do you guys think of this?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=120428557880


----------



## nategr8ns

I have 250' of Cat6 cable that was bought, but never installed. I still reaaaally want it done.

It's not Cat6e cable though.

edit: sure Hue, from what I've heard that cooler is good (albeit expensive retail).


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Need better cooling on my 165. What do you guys think of this?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=120428557880


I've heard poor performance from that cooler, but I have not definite word on it. What are you using right now?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


I have 250' of Cat6 cable that was bought, but never installed. I still reaaaally want it done.

It's not Cat6e cable though.


The only difference between cat6 & cat6e (Category 6 enhanced) is the return loss. Which is only a 4dB difference. 
This should explain it better ---V
- return loss -> connector return loss (Cat5 = 14dB, Cat5e = 20dB, Cat6 = 24dB, Cat6e = 28dB)


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


I've heard poor performance from that cooler, but I have not definite word on it


Where di you hear that? I'd think with the pelt it would at least be equivelant to any air system.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


. What are you using right now?


LOL, anything with heatpipes (cept the stock one) will be better than what I'm using now! I hacked this onto it temporarily and it's been months now!









*Thx NAte*!


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Where di you hear that? I'd think with the pelt it would at least be equivelant to any air system.


I can't find any solid results with google, but I remember seeing a thread about it before, Chiltec vs T.R.U.E., and duckie ho posted graphs showing the T.R.U.E. & Noctua out performing it.

Currently, if those results were true, it would give your 5 high end Air coolers that perform better than it for a fraction of the cost.

Ala, the Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme, Thermalright IFX-14, Xigmatek Thor's Hammer, Xigmatek S1283, Noctua NH-U12P, & Primotech Megahalem


----------



## nategr8ns

*6 high end coolers


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
*6 high end coolers




















I don't know what you are talking about.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

For the price (assuming the bidding doesn't go higher), I myself would be tempted to take a flyer at that Ultra ChillTEC, just to see satisfy my own curiosity.

On the other hand, money is tighter every day...









If you want a really good cooler for cheap, I'd suggest finding a Thermaltake Big Typhoon (with the bolt-on retention mechanism). For our S939 chips, that's more than adequate. It may not match an Ultra 120 Extreme, but it's more than good enough for even an overclocked S939 system. Plus its fan blows down onto the board, which should help with MOSFET cooling.

I've even had luck finding Big Typhoons for really cheap here.

Sadly, not today.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Just in case anybody has a spare MicroATX 939 board laying around...figured I'd shoot you guys a link to my wanted thread.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Question, fellas: Has anyone here plugged in a SATA II drive in a SATA I port? I know the numbers say there will be a limitation on throughput, but I'd like to know what the results feel like at the keyboard level.

The reason I ask is that my current project might require me to plug in my storage drive (WD Caviar Green SATA II) into one of my board's SATA I ports. The video card overhangs the SATA II ports, and I think, even with angled connectors, I may be restricted to just two. These two will be used by the OS RAID 0 array.

The storage drive will purely be for data storage and for the page file. Type of data will include documents, photo storage, DVD rips, and FLAC files.

Your thoughts will be much appreciated.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes, I had my Hitachi Deskstar (32 mb SATA-II) on my Gigabyte GA-K8NSC-939 (SATA-I). I did not notice any perceivable bottleneck at the keyboard level even though HDTach said it was there.


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Question, fellas: Has anyone here plugged in a SATA II drive in a SATA I port? I know the numbers say there will be a limitation on throughput, but I'd like to know what the results feel like at the keyboard level.

The reason I ask is that my current project might require me to plug in my storage drive (WD Caviar Green SATA II) into one of my board's SATA I ports. The video card overhangs the SATA II ports, and I think, even with angled connectors, I may be restricted to just two. These two will be used by the OS RAID 0 array.

The storage drive will purely be for data storage and for the page file. Type of data will include documents, photo storage, DVD rips, and FLAC files.

Your thoughts will be much appreciated.










I don't think you'd notice too much of a difference, as long as you're not gaming or transferring a massive amount of data at once. DVD and music, you won't notice any different. I can watch movies and listen to music on my IDE hard drives just fine









Hope this helps


----------



## Tator Tot

@txtmstrjoe,

I've done this plenty of times on my old Pentium 4 rig (that i had up until last june) and it never gave me an issue.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Blitz, simfreak, Tator, thank you all, sirs, for your inputs.









Consensus has a way of putting my mind at ease. It's a great thing to know I have this option in case I need it.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Blitz, simfreak, Tator, thank you all, sirs, for your inputs.









Consensus has a way of putting my mind at ease. It's a great thing to know I have this option in case I need it.










Just remember Joe, in the end, breaking stuff _is_ half the fun.


----------



## Blitz6804

Remember the wise words of Hue... if you cant afford to lose it, do not risk breaking it. </PARAPHRASE>


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Remember the wise words of Hue... if you cant afford to lose it, do not risk breaking it. </PARAPHRASE>


LA LA LA I'm not listening...


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


I can't find any solid results with google, but I remember seeing a thread about it before, Chiltec vs T.R.U.E., and duckie ho posted graphs showing the T.R.U.E. & Noctua out performing it.

Currently, if those results were true, it would give your 5 high end Air coolers that perform better than it for a fraction of the cost.

Ala, the Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme, Thermalright IFX-14, Xigmatek Thor's Hammer, Xigmatek S1283, Noctua NH-U12P, & Primotech Megahalem












Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


*6 high end coolers






















































:la chen:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


For the price (assuming the bidding doesn't go higher), *I myself would be tempted to take a flyer at that Ultra ChillTEC, just to see satisfy my own curiosity.[/URL].

Sadly, not today.









*
*
*
*
**
Go for it man, 1 hour left. Some awesome benefactor Has hooked me up!

Quote:



Originally Posted by txtmstrjoe


Question, fellas: Has anyone here plugged in a SATA II drive in a SATA I port?


As everyone else has said not really noticable at all. I had 2 sataII's on my asrock sataII tested them both was getting close to posted specs 150/300 and I couldn't tell any difference and I do copy alot of large files. I think controllers these days are just blindingly fast. ever since udma/ata33 they have been haulin!

Quote:



Originally Posted by Tator Tot


LA LA LA I'm not listening...

















ROTF,

Thanks for the shout out Blitz







*


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Does it has a Large cache? Sorry too lazy to research but that would be my guess, Sounds like that NET card EVGA is pushing minus the teamspeak stuff.

Honestly I could not tell you, I Googled the card out of curiosity and found out about the 20% reduced cpu load. I did not read into the article to much but was impressed by that alone.









Tator what is the purpose of SCSI on the NIC? sorry for the noobish question.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Honestly I could not tell you, I Googled the card out of curiosity and found out about the 20% reduced cpu load. I did not read into the article to much but was impressed by that alone.










Tator what is the purpose of SCSI on the NIC? sorry for the noobish question.


Quote:

In computing, *iSCSI* (pronounced /аɪsˈkʌzi/), an abbreviation of *Internet Small Computer System Interface*, an Internet Protocol (IP)-based storage networking standard for linking data storage facilities. By carrying SCSI commands over IP networks, iSCSI is used to facilitate data transfers over intranets and to manage storage over long distances. iSCSI can be used to transmit data over local area networks (LANs), wide area networks (WANs), or the Internet and can enable location-independent data storage and retrieval. The protocol allows clients (called _initiators_) to send SCSI commands (_CDBs_) to SCSI storage devices (_targets_) on remote servers. It is a popular storage area network (SAN) protocol, allowing organizations to consolidate storage into data center storage arrays while providing hosts (such as database and web servers) with the illusion of locally-attached disks. Unlike traditional Fibre Channel, which requires special-purpose cabling, iSCSI can be run over long distances using existing network infrastructure.
From Wiki

That's a good run down of the basics of iSCSI.

But the reason I said to look at getting the card with iSCSI Offloading (aka iSOE) is for the lower TDP/less heat.

They are usually the same price used, but obviously, if you can pick one up that runs cooler, and performs the same?

For You, Hue, Blitz, or most other posters in this thread, iSCSI Offloading (iSOE) means squat.

Most of you, up until this post had no idea what is was, and for good reason. It's an older technology, (Servers no longer use SCSI Ultra 320 drives, they now use SAS - Serial Attached SCSI)

At the end of the day, it's nothing to worry about. I just no we all like things to run cooler. And for people like you with a dual GPU setup, you don't want to add extra heat in the middle of your two ovens.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
As everyone else has said not really noticable at all. I had 2 sataII's on my asrock sataII tested them both was getting close to posted specs 150/300 and I couldn't tell any difference and I do copy alot of large files. I think controllers these days are just blindingly fast. ever since dma33 they have been haulin!

Perhaps another reason why a lot of us hardly notice any issues is because we're all using 7200rpm drives. A faster spindle drive would definitely show it's colors I'd imagine...especially on a sata II controller. Not to mention also more drives would be better (more disk I/O).


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Perhaps another reason why a lot of us hardly notice any issues is because we're all using 7200rpm drives. A faster spindle drive would definitely show it's colors I'd imagine...especially on a sata II controller. Not to mention also more drives would be better (more disk I/O).


Yeah, also very true! But I've always gone for the cheap drives (they drop so fast next iteration has all the goodies)After reading what you quoted I noticed I put DMA33 rather than DMA/ata33!









The only times I've noticed big gains are when I managed to get a drive interleaved to 1:1 without throughput loss, ATA33 Pio1 did nothing IMO but PIO2 was noticeable but from PIO2-PIO4 I saw and felt no change and I gotta say running a drive in DMA(as long as you added the Busmastering driver, LOL how many times I've seen that not installed!) was massively noticeable (back when you had to go into the driver to enable it) I saw huge increases. AFA ATA33-133 Not so much? which is weird but maybe the lines should have been terminated? I never really cared at the time as I said ever since ata33/udma Hd access does not seem to effect me (that of course is considering I'm not thrashing the VM or a cross-link or EOf marker issue).


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


After reading what you quoted I noticed I put DMA33 rather than DMA/ata33!










Hueristic, no worries man I knew what you meant hehe.

I have a sata II drive in my main desktop machine at work and I don't even notice a difference versus my ata100 drive in my sig rig


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Hueristic, no worries man I knew what you meant hehe.

I have a sata II drive in my main desktop machine at work and I don't even notice a difference versus my ata100 drive in my sig rig










LOLz, It's a big conspiracy to sell us hard drives! Sorry just saw that stupid global warming thread and I'm still laughing!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Sorry just saw that stupid global warming thread and I'm still laughing!










Hueristic, oh boy let's not get the S939 Club started on that topic


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Hueristic, oh boy let's not get the S939 Club started on that topic










ROTF! omg you are soo right! I'm sleep deprived, gonna try to crash again (is it bad to wake up and drink your coffee from last night and wonder why your still up)!


----------



## GuardianOdin

have a problem guys.

I can't seem to get SLi working working my friends two 8600GT's.

Mobo N4SLI-A9
Current Nvidia drivers

I'm getting this error

Quote:

This device cannot find enough free resources that it can use. (Code 12)
Not sure what to do. The SLI card on the Mobo is correct and the bridge is in place. Any idea's?


----------



## nategr8ns

GO, try removing some of the RAM.
I have a feeling...
Is he on 32bit or 64bit?


----------



## Hueristic

I've never Sli'd sorry GO.
Sli'ing would mean I would have to interupt my PPD!







;P


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


GO, try removing some of the RAM.
I have a feeling...
Is he on 32bit or 64bit?


XP 32bit The rig currently has 2Gb of RAM. The PC is at work right now, I'll give that a shot when I head back in tonight.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


I've never Sli'd sorry GO. 
Sli'ing would mean I would have to interupt my PPD!







;P


If worst comes to worst, I'll just suggest a higher end Vid Card. I should be able to find an 800GT for cheap now or even a 8800GS.


----------



## Hueristic

*Off Topic*
Hey guys want a laugh? I ripped this guy a new butthole. It's pretty funny.









http://www.overclock.net/overclock-n...ml#post6388542


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


have a problem guys.

I can't seem to get SLi working working my friends two 8600GT's.

Mobo N4SLI-A9
Current Nvidia drivers

I'm getting this error

Not sure what to do. The SLI card on the Mobo is correct and the bridge is in place. Any idea's?



GO, How many periferals do you have on this system. I.E. cound card, nic card, dial up modem, Parallel printer usb devices video cards etc etc. The error code seems to me like you have no more IRQ's or something in that nature. It could just be a OS glitch of some sort or you might have something disabled in the bios. I will try to help w/this but am by no means any expert so you'll have to take my advice w/a grain of salt in hopes that it get's you pointed in the right direction.

Google'n your mobo now.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


GO, How many peripherals do you have on this system. I.E. cound card, nic card, dial up modem, Parallel printer usb devices video cards etc etc. The error code seems to me like you have no more IRQ's or something in that nature. It could just be a OS glitch of some sort or you might have something disabled in the bios. I will try to help w/this but am by no means any expert so you'll have to take my advice w/a grain of salt in hopes that it get's you pointed in the right direction.

Google'n your mobo now.










I removed all additional PCI/USB...etc. I still get the code with just the two 8600GT's. If I'm not mistaken, isn't there away to assign IRQ's? When I get back to work I will try a few different "old" drivers and see if maybe that would help.

As far as what extra slots are used. There is one PCI USB card, but as I said. With or with out. The error 12 still pops up.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


I removed all additional PCI/USB...etc. I still get the code with just the two 8600GT's. If I'm not mistaken, isn't there away to assign IRQ's? When I get back to work I will try a few different "old" drivers and see if maybe that would help.

As far as what extra slots are used. There is one PCI USB card, but as I said. With or with out. The error 12 still pops up.


IRQ's should be assigned in your bios. There should be a choice in there.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


IRQ's should be assigned in your bios. There should be a choice in there.


Thanks Hueristic, I was going to say that but you beat me to it. I would leave the bios setting to set the irq's on auto config and check to make sure that you don't have any thing important disabled. I downloaded your manual and give it a quick lookieloo to see if there is any bios help in the user manual.

I just had an epiphany while sitting on the thrown. Do you have SLI enabled in the bios and do you need to make any jumpers changes on the mobo for sli to work???

Have you tried to reset your bios to Optimized settings. I would try that but only after recording all of your important bios settings. I.E. primary display, audio ac97 or HD, HDD settings. If you are OC'd record those settings and and put it back to stock spd's.

If you reset your bios to optimized or default settings then it's important that you make the bios adjustments for your audio, video, HDD etc before your first boot so that your OS does not report new hardware found and try to load drivers that you don't want to load.

I'll look at your manual now and report back.

EDIT:

From looking at your bios options I would put my focus on the following areas

Non OS2 "Default"
SLI Broadcast Aperture "enable or Auto"
Onboard parallel port "IRQ's" ( Maybe you can change the IRQ if conflict is a problem. Useually you will see a conflict in the Systems "DEVICE MANAGER" )
Resources controlled by: Auto(ESCD) " This has to do w/IRQ's and how the bios issues them to the different components in your system."
Maximum Payload Size "Auto 4096"

The only other thing I can suggest, that's if you have a spare HDD is to do a clean install on a diff HDD w/fresh driver install to see if you get the same problem.

Has the bios been updated recently and if so did you try to update the os and what Service pack do you have installed.

Hope all this helps...


----------



## Hueristic

BOY, You got alot of time on the throne N2!









If worse comes to worse disable all devises in the bios sans the drives and enable the vid irq. that should free up enough irq's that you will know if there is a confict.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quick question: My dad is currently running on a P4 3.4ghz w/HT on an Intel board that doesn't support any higher processors than his.
I'm thinking about buying a Gigabyte P35 board for him and eventually upgrading to a dual core or quad core Core-2.
Is it a better idea to just give him my old 939 stuff and upgrade later?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Quick question: My dad is currently running on a P4 3.4ghz w/HT on an Intel board that doesn't support any higher processors than his.
I'm thinking about buying a Gigabyte P35 board for him and eventually upgrading to a dual core or quad core Core-2.
Is it a better idea to just give him my old 939 stuff and upgrade later?


Not sure but if you want a Gigabyte P35 (ep35-ds3r) I have a spare.


----------



## nategr8ns

I'll let you know Hue.
Does anybody know how to show discontinued items on newegg?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Need better cooling on my 165. What do you guys think of this?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=120428557880

I've read some about the chilltec cooler. And its avery good idea, the problem with the Peltier (spelling?) coolers is condensation. If you didn't have to worry about water build up, I think it would take over as it could make CPU temps below freezing and pretty damn quickly at that.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
I've heard poor performance from that cooler, but I have not definite word on it. What are you using right now?

It looks like he's using a modded Tt volcano.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Where di you hear that? I'd think with the pelt it would at least be equivelant to any air system.

The problem with the chilltec is that you have to set a cooling profile. So that leaves A LOT of room for operator error when it comes down to performance.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I've even had luck finding Big Typhoons for really cheap here.

Sadly, not today.









Those are most definitely great coolers. And thats exactly where I got mine. $19.99 shipped







. Sadly since it is Tt, it does _need_ to be lapped before its even used. But once it is and its mated to a lapped CPU, only H2O comes close to the temps I'm able to achieve with it. Within .5*C of ambient at idle, and ~50*C at the core @ 100% load.
I wonder if the mini typhoon is any good?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Question, fellas: Has anyone here plugged in a SATA II drive in a SATA I port? I know the numbers say there will be a limitation on throughput, but I'd like to know what the results feel like at the keyboard level.

The reason I ask is that my current project might require me to plug in my storage drive (WD Caviar Green SATA II) into one of my board's SATA I ports. The video card overhangs the SATA II ports, and I think, even with angled connectors, I may be restricted to just two. These two will be used by the OS RAID 0 array.

The storage drive will purely be for data storage and for the page file. Type of data will include documents, photo storage, DVD rips, and FLAC files.

Your thoughts will be much appreciated.









Joe, I've noticed about a 30% overall improvement in speed with my RAID array from SATA I to SATA II. The most noticable is the burst speed in which SATA II about doubles the speed of SATA I. And thats what I've found is used for stuff like internet browsing and so on. I've also noticed an increase in speed in games like BF2/2142 where the map files are rather large and used to take a little bit to load, I'd say it cut my load times in half over a single drive and ~30% quicker than SATA I.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
If worst comes to worst, I'll just suggest a higher end Vid Card. I should be able to find an 800GT for cheap now or even a 8800GS.

Hey Odie, theres a smokin deal on some GSO's at the egg right now. $34.99 after MIR and it comes with COD:WAW.









And speaking of which I just ordered 2 of those for folding rig no.2







. I think if my wife finds out she's gonna be like :swearing:.
At any rate while I was researching modding my Ultra-D to an SLI board I found this gem of an article about the DFI boards specifically. Supposedly you can actually connect the SLI jumper and the SATA II jumper (LP D board) with a NO.2 pencil


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Hey Odie, theres a smokin deal on some GSO's at the egg right now. $34.99 after MIR and it comes with COD:WAW.









And speaking of which I just ordered 2 of those for folding rig no.2







. I think if my wife finds out she's gonna be like :swearing:.
At any rate while I was researching modding my Ultra-D to an SLI board I found this gem of an article about the DFI boards specifically. Supposedly you can actually connect the SLI jumper and the SATA II jumper (LP D board) with a NO.2 pencil









Dang, I really want to do that now.

Lets see... pass my 8800gt down to brother, sell 7900gs, go SLI 9600GSO?

Or is it better to just get a single 9600gso for my brother and keep my 8800gt?


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
I'll let you know Hue.
Does anybody know how to show discontinued items on newegg?

Google the product you're looking for and put "newegg" in the search.

Oh, and hi guys, it's been a while







.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
Dang, I really want to do that now.

Lets see... pass my 8800gt down to brother, sell 7900gs, go SLI 9600GSO?

Or is it better to just get a single 9600gso for my brother and keep my 8800gt?

GSO's in SLI should beat an 8800GT in games that utilize SLI. (Which is most games). But if you're just going to get one card, hang on to your GT and get one of those for your bro. Especially if you think about that COD:WOW is a $50 game. So after the rebate if you sell the game for $40 you'll actually come out ahead $5.









Im going to SLI mod my other ultra-D and do some benching with those since they'll actually fit in the slots.









EDIT: Remember 9600GSO's are re-branded 8800GS's.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Hey Odie, theres a smokin deal on some GSO's at the egg right now. $34.99 after MIR and it comes with COD:WAW.









Wow, that's an awsome deal! It's like buying the game and getting a free graphics card with it.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
Quick question: My dad is currently running on a P4 3.4ghz w/HT on an Intel board that doesn't support any higher processors than his.
I'm thinking about buying a Gigabyte P35 board for him and eventually upgrading to a dual core or quad core Core-2.
Is it a better idea to just give him my old 939 stuff and upgrade later?

Yep, give him your 939 rig then have him buy you an AM3 rig around thanksgiving. You know on black friday there are going to be some SMOKIN deals.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
I'll let you know Hue.
Does anybody know how to show discontinued items on newegg?

You either need to have the part # or have a very detailed nodel description. Like when I look for my EVGA gso's, I type in EVGA 9600GSO 768 GDDR3 192 bit. And usually the newegg page is the first one that pops up.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Google the product you're looking for and put "newegg" in the search.

Oh, and hi guys, it's been a while








.

Hey Pez, long time no see.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
Wow, that's an awsome deal! It's like buying the game and getting a free graphics card with it.

I know isn't that beautiful?







. I'm getting 2 of them, I might just keep one copy of COD:WAW. Man I think my computer room is going to be sitting @ 35*C once I have both of those rigs going


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey BO does it matter if that card only had 384MB of ram when it comes to gaming. I thought the standard for today's games was 512 & up. I know you can run games on cards w/only 256 as I have a 256MB GForce PX6600TD in my daily driver DFI machine and it games just fine but I am not able to get the better resolutions because of the smaller ram on the video card. I just wanted to point out the ram on that card just in case any one over looked it...


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Yep, give him your 939 rig then have him buy you an AM3 rig around thanksgiving. You know on black friday there are going to be some SMOKIN deals.

You either need to have the part # or have a very detailed nodel description. Like when I look for my EVGA gso's, I type in EVGA 9600GSO 768 GDDR3 192 bit. And usually the newegg page is the first one that pops up.

Hey Pez, long time no see.









I know isn't that beautiful?







. I'm getting 2 of them, I might just keep one copy of COD:WAW. Man I think my computer room is going to be sitting @ 35*C once I have both of those rigs going










I know, I've been busier than usual lately. Graduation for me is coming up, so I'm getting prepped and getting all of my volunteer hours and such in so that I can graduate with Honors, etc.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hey Odie, theres a smokin deal on some GSO's at the egg right now. $34.99 after MIR and it comes with COD:WAW.










Hey BO, what's the shader count on these? It's not in the specs nor on the asus site. I'm guessing it's the 48 version which will be bad for folding. You should check into that before pulling the trigger.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Dang, I really want to do that now.

Lets see... pass my 8800gt down to brother, sell 7900gs, go SLI 9600GSO?

Or is it better to just get a single 9600gso for my brother and keep my 8800gt?


8800gt









Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Google the product you're looking for and put "newegg" in the search.

Oh, and hi guys, it's been a while







.












Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


I know, I've been busier than usual lately. Graduation for me is coming up, so I'm getting prepped and getting all of my volunteer hours and such in *so that I can graduate with Honors*, etc.






































:chee rs:


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hey BO does it matter if that card only had 384MB of ram when it comes to gaming. I thought the standard for today's games was 512 & up. I know you can run games on cards w/only 256 as I have a 256MB GForce PX6600TD in my daily driver DFI machine and it games just fine but I am not able to get the better resolutions because of the smaller ram on the video card. I just wanted to point out the ram on that card just in case any one over looked it...










 I think it does make a difference, but probably not as much as people make it out to be. In SLI even though it doesn't double the RAM, framerate and anti-aliasing benefit from it. I know with my 6800's the performance is almost doubled. Its not uncommon for those to run ~100FPS with all the bells and whistles in most games. With the obvious exception being games like crysis. But even in crysis, if I turned shadows off they did remarkably well. It was definitely playable. 
I'll do some benchmarking with the GSOs' and my 3500+ to see how they do. And see how much of an improvement 1 card does over 2. Then they'll be relegated to folding duty







. I'm hoping to see 14-15k PPD from the GPUs' alone.

EDIT: 
Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Hey BO, what's the shader count on these? It's not in the specs nor on the asus site. I'm guessing it's the 48 version which will be bad for folding. You should check into that before pulling the trigger.
:


 Hue, I was skeptical about them too, I actually did some digging around last night and found 1 website that actually reviewed this specific card and they had more specs on it. They said that these were the 96 SP. AFAIK, when it comes down to the GSO's, if they have the 192 bit bus, regardless of 384 or 768 Mb, they have 96 SP, if they have the 128 bit bus then they're the gimped 48SP versions, but they usually have more memory, 512/1024.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


SLI Broadcast Aperture "enable or Auto"


N2Gaming, great suggestions +1. I'm leaning more towards the above bios option. My DFI SLI-DR has a similar option. I'd recommend turning it to "Enable".

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Quick question: My dad is currently running on a P4 3.4ghz w/HT on an Intel board that doesn't support any higher processors than his.
I'm thinking about buying a Gigabyte P35 board for him and eventually upgrading to a dual core or quad core Core-2.
Is it a better idea to just give him my old 939 stuff and upgrade later?


Nategr8ns, save your money and give him your old Socket 939 rig. If the machine is primarily being used for email and internet browsing then heck that rig would suit him well.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Oh, and hi guys, it's been a while







.


Hi Pez









Good luck guys


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


BOY, You got alot of time on the throne N2!









If worse comes to worse disable all devises in the bios sans the drives and enable the vid irq. that should free up enough irq's that you will know if there is a confict.


I'm not sure I follow the sans the drives part of the equation. What does sans stand for ? Is sans an acronym for something?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, great suggestions +1. I'm leaning more towards the above bios option. My DFI SLI-DR has a similar option. I'd recommend turning it to "Enable".


 Thanks


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I'm not sure I follow the sans the drives part of the equation. What does sans stand for ? Is sans an acronym for something?


N2Gaming, I'm guessing he means "for example"?









I too am a bit curious now.


----------



## BlackOmega

Sans means without or deprived.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Sans means *without *or deprived.


BlackOmega, thanks that makes more sense


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, thanks that makes more sense









you're welcome


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, "sans" is used for "without."


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
They said that these were the 96 SP. AFAIK, when it comes down to the GSO's, if they have the 192 bit bus, regardless of 384 or 768 Mb, they have 96 SP, if they have the 128 bit bus then they're the gimped 48SP versions, but they usually have more memory, 512/1024.

GREAT news! that's just sweet man! I was really bumming when I couldn't find shaders on either site! What a great deal!
BTW this card is great for a htpc while folding! I can attest to that (well the 8800gs anyway







)

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I'm not sure I follow the sans the drives part of the equation. What does sans stand for ? Is sans an acronym for something?

Thanks










Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Sans means without or deprived.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Yeah, "sans" is used for "without."

you guys are of course correct, sorry bout that N2 not even sure where I picked that up?







Sounds cool and types faster though!


----------



## thlnk3r

Speaking of video cards, here's a link to some helpful documentation: http://users.erols.com/chare/video.htm. Surprisingly this user has been keeping up to date on everything. I've had this link in my favorites for many years now. Just thought I'd share this with everyone









Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
GREAT news! that's just sweet man! I was really bumming when I couldn't find shaders on either site! What a great deal!
BTW this card is great for a htpc while folding! I can attest to that (well the 8800gs anyway







)

Found a little bit more info on the differences. The GSO that you want for folding are the G92 chipset. The G94 chipset is the gimped 48SP one.

And another interesting fact, according to that page the 8800GS has slightly better bandwidth than the GSO 38.4GB/s compared to 40.8GB/s. Also has slightly faster clocks stock.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Speaking of video cards, here's a link to some helpful documentation: http://users.erols.com/chare/video.htm. Surprisingly this user has been keeping up to date on everything. I've had this link in my favorites for many years now. Just thought I'd share this with everyone









Good luck

Thats a great site


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thanks Hueristic, I was going to say that but you beat me to it. I would leave the bios setting to set the irq's on auto config and check to make sure that you don't have any thing important disabled. I downloaded your manual and give it a quick lookieloo to see if there is any bios help in the user manual.

I just had an epiphany while sitting on the thrown. Do you have SLI enabled in the bios and do you need to make any jumpers changes on the mobo for sli to work???

Have you tried to reset your bios to Optimized settings. I would try that but only after recording all of your important bios settings. I.E. primary display, audio ac97 or HD, HDD settings. If you are OC'd record those settings and and put it back to stock spd's.

If you reset your bios to optimized or default settings then it's important that you make the bios adjustments for your audio, video, HDD etc before your first boot so that your OS does not report new hardware found and try to load drivers that you don't want to load.

I'll look at your manual now and report back.

EDIT:

From looking at your bios options I would put my focus on the following areas

Non OS2 "Default"
SLI Broadcast Aperture "enable or Auto"
Onboard parallel port "IRQ's" ( Maybe you can change the IRQ if conflict is a problem. Useually you will see a conflict in the Systems "DEVICE MANAGER" )
Resources controlled by: Auto(ESCD) " This has to do w/IRQ's and how the bios issues them to the different components in your system."
Maximum Payload Size "Auto 4096"

The only other thing I can suggest, that's if you have a spare HDD is to do a clean install on a diff HDD w/fresh driver install to see if you get the same problem.

Has the bios been updated recently and if so did you try to update the os and what Service pack do you have installed.

Hope all this helps...











The BIOS have been updated and all setting are set to default. The IRQ's can not be changed. It's either PCI or Reserved.I tried both and got nothing. I also did a fresh OS install and hitting the same wall. I think after 10 plus hours I'll just suggest to my friend to buy a batter card. More than likely I'll end up buying it as she is broke and I wanted to build a low-mid end gaming rig for her. The problem really isn't the 8600GT SLi, one card would have been fine if it were not for the 22inch widscreen she bought....sigh.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hey Odie, theres a smokin deal on some GSO's at the egg right now. $34.99 after MIR and it comes with COD:WAW.









And speaking of which I just ordered 2 of those for folding rig no.2







. I think if my wife finds out she's gonna be like :swearing:.
At any rate while I was researching modding my Ultra-D to an SLI board I found this gem of an article about the DFI boards specifically. Supposedly you can actually connect the SLI jumper and the SATA II jumper (LP D board) with a NO.2 pencil










With any luck they will still have those when I can afford to buy one ...fingers crossed....

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Dang, I really want to do that now.

Lets see... pass my 8800gt down to brother, sell 7900gs, go SLI 9600GSO?

Or is it better to just get a single 9600gso for my brother and keep my 8800gt?


pass it down pass it down! lol j/k maybe if I the cash man. I'm buying a Cintiq 12WX off of Inuyasha1771 and I'm tapped out.

Anyway thanks for the help guys. I'll try a few more tricks, but if they do not work in the next hour or so I'll be done messing with it.


----------



## pez

You guys did catch that appraisal last week right? The one for a Socket 939 4600+ x2 Toledo?


----------



## Blitz6804

Silly questions: Have you reset the BIOS after installing the second card? Have you tried swapping Card 0 with Card 1? (Pioneer's motherboard will work with SLI in one direction but not the other.) Have you tried a different SLI bridge? Have you tested both cards for stability by themselves in Slot 0? Slot 1? (Somebody has to ask them, might as well be the village idiot... er... law student.)


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Silly questions: Have you reset the BIOS after installing the second card? Have you tried swapping Card 0 with Card 1? (Pioneer's motherboard will work with SLI in one direction but not the other.) Have you tried a different SLI bridge? Have you tested both cards for stability by themselves in Slot 0? Slot 1? (Somebody has to ask them, might as well be the village idiot... er... law student.)


yes, yes and yes ...... two 8 hour shifts at work of troubleshooting. I have to have the PC back to her on Monday so I'm a bit out of time. I'll probably just get a better card instead of fighting with SLi.


----------



## Blitz6804

Did you have a chance to try SLI on a different motherboard? Have you tried to SLI different cards on this motherboard?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Did you have a chance to try SLI on a different motherboard? Have you tried to SLI different cards on this motherboard?


actually I did, on my Expert. I had no issues with the 8600's. SLI was detected immediately. Unfortunately I only own one other card and that's my 8800GT, so I couldn't test different cards on that Mobo.


----------



## pioneerisloud

So yeah...I won't be online for quite a while here guys. I won't go into details, but please welcome the newest 939 overclocker!!!!


----------



## Blitz6804

Congratz Pio's girlfriend!


----------



## nategr8ns

w00t!
Grats Pio!

edit: (you better have turned off flash for those pictures







: *flash* "waaaaaaaaah")


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


w00t!
Grats Pio!

edit: (you better have turned off flash for those pictures







: *flash* "waaaaaaaaah")


Of course...no flash







. And I don't know if I personally deserve a congrats yet or not, lol. They keep calling me daddy....and its weird, lol. I'm not TECHNICALLY daddy, but I am very happy to meet the little guy, and I hope I get to spend a long time with him. If that counts as being daddy...then I spose I can let them keep calling me that, lol.


----------



## Grim

He's so cute.

congrats my friend -- you "own" a new life. 
And you ARE a dad! ESP seeing that age you're gonna have him from









0!


----------



## BlackOmega

HAHA! Congrats PIO! Cute little bugger, he's got a lot of hair too







. And since you're going to be the male role model, this little one will always refer to you as daddy, whether you're the biological father or not.









Be good to him, and when you're at your wits end DO NOT HESITATE TO CALL FOR HELP! Having an almost 2 month old and a 2 year old at the same time can really frazzle you brain at times. And you'll quickly realize sleep is a precious commodity.

And heres a tip, if the baby is crying (unless its colicky) its 1 or more of these 3 things. Wet diaper, hungry or its cold. Make sure hose 3 reqs are met and you'll have smooth sailing.









Good Luck PIO


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
HAHA! Congrats PIO! Cute little bugger, he's got a lot of hair too







. And since you're going to be the male role model, this little one will always refer to you as daddy, whether you're the biological father or not.









Be good to him, and when you're at your wits end DO NOT HESITATE TO CALL FOR HELP! Having an almost 2 month old and a 2 year old at the same time can really frazzle you brain at times. And you'll quickly realize sleep is a precious commodity.

And heres a tip, if the baby is crying (unless its colicky) its 1 or more of these 3 things. Wet diaper, hungry or its cold. Make sure hose 3 reqs are met and you'll have smooth sailing.









Good Luck PIO









Haha. That's funny! My girlfriend already has a 2 year old little girl (she'll be 2 on July 4th), and then this one. And you've got a little baby and a 2 year old too, lol.

I'll keep those 3 requirements in mind







. Thanks for the advice. I've NEVER even held a baby before until yesterday, lol. So I'm very much new at this...it'd be like me trying to overclock an i7.

And yes guys...I HAVE tried to overclock the baby already. Its got all these new functions in the BIOS that I just haven't quite figured out yet. Its a whole lot different than overclocking 939, that's for sure







.


----------



## BlackOmega

O yeah 1 more thing pio, I'm sure you've already heard this but sleep whent he baby sleeps. Then you might actually get your 8 hours







.

HAHA, that is funny that you're going to have a 2 year old and a newborn around too







They're great I wouldn't trade them for anything. And don't try too hard to overclock the baby, you'll quickly realize boys are a lot different than girls









EDIT: Forgot almost the most important when trying to lay the newborn down to sleep, it might seem inhumane but swaddle the little guy. Not too tight but tight enough so he won't get his arms out. Their startle reflex is at its peak right now, and a lot of the time they'll bop themselves in the nose and wake themselves up.


----------



## GuardianOdin

woooow!....gratz Pio!


----------



## thlnk3r

Congratulations Pioneer









Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Be good to him, and when you're at your wits end DO NOT HESITATE TO CALL FOR HELP!


Oh don't you worry BlackOmega, I'll be calling you every day with questions


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Congratulations Pioneer









Oh don't you worry BlackOmega, I'll be calling you every day with questions










 O SNAP!


----------



## ccbox23

I'm a little unclear on the concept when it comes to posting, links, signatures, etc. so please bear with me.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=582231

I hope this links to my CPU-Z validation....if not, I'll have to submit a formal request for " hand holding and gentle explanations about things I should already know".
Thank you
Charlie
Athlon [email protected]
Asus A8N SLI Deluxe
Corsair CMXP512 x 4 (2G)
details when I figure out how to make signature


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Well done, ccbox23.







The link worked perfectly, and now you are part of our S939 tribe.









Welcome to OCN, as well! I'm confident you'll enjoy your stay here.









To facilitate your OCN experience, it is highly recommended that you post your sig rig specs, which you can do by clicking on User CP at the top of the page, then clicking on Add System down the left of the page (or you can just click the direct links in this post).







To add a signature, click here.

Welcome!


----------



## Blitz6804

Welcome aboard ccbox23, you are now officially a member of the off-site roster!

In other news, I finally got around to adding Kryton's epic San Diego.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Welcome to the club ccbox23


----------



## pez

Gratz Pio and welcom ccbox23.


----------



## thlnk3r

Welcome aboard ccbox23









Woohoo FX-55! Great job on the overclock.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Welcome aboard ccbox23, you are now officially a member of the off-site roster!

In other news, I finally got around to adding Kryton's epic San Diego.


I have GOT to beat that :swearing:!!!

Seriously though guys....I'm leaving here in about 20 minutes or so to spend time with the new baby and his mother (my girlfriend). I'll be staying out there with her...and their house doesn't have anything but dial up







. If I am able to STAND the dial up connection, I might check OCN out every long once in a while....but chances are I probably won't post anything.

So I guess I'll talk to you guys again after a while. I will attempt to give updates whenever I can. At the best, I'll probably end up on Yahoo IM or AIM through the web browser ones. So I'll probably end up shooting updates through Blitz if he doesn't mind.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I have GOT to beat that :swearing:!!!

While you're at it, see if you can beat this too....











However I lost one of my 8600 GTS video cards doing it. Condensation from me severely icing down my res got on it and took it out.

Seriously, I had to solve the problem of water dripping on my card due to it's location, so earlier today I iced it down again and slipped a rubber glove over the end that was prone to get dripped on for "Safe OC'ing"..


----------



## Blitz6804

I'm special... score!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Sans means without or deprived.


Thnx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


you guys are of course correct, sorry bout that N2 not even sure where I picked that up?







Sounds cool and types faster though!










NP Thnx for the clearing that up for me. I now have a new word in my arsenal.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


The BIOS have been updated and all setting are set to default. The IRQ's can not be changed. It's either PCI or Reserved.I tried both and got nothing. I also did a fresh OS install and hitting the same wall. I think after 10 plus hours I'll just suggest to my friend to buy a batter card. More than likely I'll end up buying it as she is broke and I wanted to build a low-mid end gaming rig for her. The problem really isn't the 8600GT SLi, one card would have been fine if it were not for the 22inch widscreen she bought....sigh.

With any luck they will still have those when I can afford to buy one ...fingers crossed....


 Good Luck w/that

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


So yeah...I won't be online for quite a while here guys. I won't go into details, but please welcome the newest 939 overclocker!!!!


Congrats, good luck and may the force be w/u.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *ccbox23*


http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=582231

Charlie
Athlon [email protected]
Asus A8N SLI Deluxe
Corsair CMXP512 x 4 (2G)
details when I figure out how to make signature


 Good job charlie. Welcome to OCN and Club 939


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
While you're at it, see if you can beat this too....











However I lost one of my 8600 GTS video cards doing it. Condensation from me severely icing down my res got on it and took it out.

Seriously, I had to solve the problem of water dripping on my card due to it's location, so earlier today I iced it down again and slipped a rubber glove over the end that was prone to get dripped on for "Safe OC'ing"..









Lol you used a prophylactic.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ccbox23*


I'm a little unclear on the concept when it comes to posting, links, signatures, etc. so please bear with me.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=582231

I hope this links to my CPU-Z validation....if not, I'll have to submit a formal request for " hand holding and gentle explanations about things I should already know".
Thank you
Charlie
Athlon [email protected]
Asus A8N SLI Deluxe
Corsair CMXP512 x 4 (2G)
details when I figure out how to make signature


Welcome! you know your really not a member without an opty, You need to send me the fx and I'll send you an opty!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


While you're at it, see if you can beat this too....











However I lost one of my 8600 GTS video cards doing it. Condensation from me severely icing down my res got on it and took it out.

Seriously, I had to solve the problem of water dripping on my card due to it's location, so earlier today I iced it down again and slipped a rubber glove over the end that was prone to get dripped on for "Safe OC'ing"..









































Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thnx

NP Thnx for the clearing that up for me. I now have a new word in my arsenal.










Congrats PIO! Make sure to get your Prozac prescription now!


----------



## N2Gaming

I thought you guys might get a kick out of this guys selling practices. See if you can tell me what's wrong w/this picture?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 


Kryton, very nice overclock. Did you ever get things situated to see if you could start testing for stability? I remember you mentioning you had some cooling issues? Arg I can't remember.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 

Seriously, I had to solve the problem of water dripping on my card due to it's location, so earlier today I iced it down again and slipped a rubber glove over the end that was prone to get dripped on for "Safe OC'ing"..









Haha I like that. That's a very inventive way of solving the problem









Good luck

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I thought you guys might get a kick out of this guys selling practices. See if you can tell me what's wrong w/this picture?









N2Gaming, thanks for sharing. Wow he wanted $120 for shipping......


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Kryton, very nice overclock. Did you ever get things situated to see if you could start testing for stability? I remember you mentioning you had some cooling issues? Arg I can't remember.

With the problems I'm having with condensation, can't do any testing at these speeds aside from short runs while watching my stuff for excessive condesation and the fact ice just doesn't last too long doing this.
It literally took a chest full of ice earlier today just to keep coolant temps around the 4c mark for around an hour and no way extended testing can be done for now. It even took half the chest just to get temps down when I started since I'm running (2) two gallon containers for a res setup with one for the system itself and the other for creating a chiller effect. Keeping it cool once temps are down isn't nearly as bad as simply getting it there.
I really need to come up with a way to keep it cool enough for an extended period of time and I believe I can do it but it's gonna be expensive - Not to mention limited space here for such a thing.

I may be able to pull off some stability runs at somewhat lower speeds (Around 2.9 - 3.0 maybe) and let you see those since temps aren't a problem there on plain water.
I'll also postup some pics of this WC'ing setup so you can see what I'm talking about. It's ugly as sin but it does work and I'll let the results I've gotten speak for itself.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I thought you guys might get a kick out of this guys selling practices. See if you can tell me what's wrong w/this picture?









WHAT A GREAT DEAL!!!!









Only $120 for shipping? Man thats pretty cheap









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
With the problems I'm having with condensation, can't do any testing at these speeds aside from short runs while watching my stuff for excessive condesation and the fact ice just doesn't last too long doing this.
It literally took a chest full of ice earlier today just to keep coolant temps around the 4c mark for around an hour and no way extended testing can be done for now. It even took half the chest just to get temps down when I started since I'm running (2) two gallon containers for a res setup with one for the system itself and the other for creating a chiller effect. Keeping it cool once temps are down isn't nearly as bad as simply getting it there.
I really need to come up with a way to keep it cool enough for an extended period of time and I believe I can do it but it's gonna be expensive - Not to mention limited space here for such a thing.

I may be able to pull off some stability runs at somewhat lower speeds (Around 2.9 - 3.0 maybe) and let you see those since temps aren't a problem there on plain water.
I'll also postup some pics of this WC'ing setup so you can see what I'm talking about. It's ugly as sin but it does work and I'll let the results I've gotten speak for itself.

If you could find some way of insulating the piping to minimize heat retention in it. Or was this the actual block?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
I'll also postup some pics of this WC'ing setup so you can see what I'm talking about. It's ugly as sin but it does work and I'll let the results I've gotten speak for itself.

Kryton, pictures or it never happened


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Kryton, pictures or it never happened









OK - Here's some pics.









Note I have two different MB's between these pics, one being the 939 and the other is a 754 socket DFI NF4X Infinity system I had setup for initial testing of the system. The waterblock is a OCZ Hydroflow and the chipset block is a Swiftech MCW30. This system isn't finalized and really just a work in progress.
Note that I also have a single stage rad for the chiller effect and need something larger for a better effect. I also have shutoff valves for each res for obvious reasons and I also have drain valves (Not pictured) for each res setup to let out excess water after the ice melts so I can add more as I go or for simply draining the system as I need to.

The main rad is a three stage unit with all three fan slots utilized and I have it laying almost flat since heat tends to rise and it has to be elevated a bit to one corner so air can get out via it's outlet. I did this to maximize it's cooling efficiency (I think







) and I have both res setups higher than the rest of the system so it can literally bleed air out without the pumps doing anything. These pumps are Swiftech MCP655 "Vario" units that cannot be ran dry so that's why I have the res containers up high - I let water pressure itself do the job of priming these pumps and some of the bleeding.

I'm looking to get another chipset block and perhaps another CPU block to see if I can either do better or at least have the extra chipset block to run one of my A8N32's with since it would need two chipset blocks anyway.

It's butt-ugly but works anyway. I may get around to getting things neatened up once I find out what seems to work to setup a final config of things. Not sure if everything I'm trying here is the best way but that's why I'm experimenting with it.


----------



## BlackOmega

Kryton, I was looking at your water dispensers there, and I think you should insulate those. If you can help keep the cool temps where you have the most H2O, it will last you longer.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Kryton, I was looking at your water dispersers there, and I think you should insulate those. If you can help keep the cool temps where you have the most H2O, it will last you longer.


That's one thing I've thought of and I'd also like to insulate the tubing itself mainly to help with temps and condensation formation if it will make a difference there.

One thing I discovered today is the coolant will stay cold longer if I DON'T use the fans on my rad. Seems the fans will add heat to an extent and I thought that might be the case earlier. Ran it with those disabled and the coolant stayed cooler for a longer period of time once I had temps down.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


That's one thing I've thought of and I'd also like to insulate the tubing itself mainly to help with temps and condensation formation if it will make a difference there.

One thing I discovered today is the coolant will stay cold longer if I DON'T use the fans on my rad. Seems the fans will add heat to an extent and I thought that might be the case earlier. Ran it with those disabled and the coolant stayed cooler for a longer period of time once I had temps down.


 I was thinking of another way of insulating the actual piping. Get another piece of hose almost _exactly_ as long as the existing piping , but larger to go around the original pipe. Then clamping the ends around the existing piping.
Then I had another thought, if you could make the connection air tight between the hoses, then you could vacuum out the air. I honestly don't know if that makes a difference, but has anyone ever actually measured the temperature of a vacuum?
Just a thought.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I was thinking of another way of insulating the actual piping. Get another piece of hose almost _exactly_ as long as the existing piping , but larger to go around the original pipe. Then clamping the ends around the existing piping.
Then I had another thought, if you could make the connection air tight between the hoses, then you could vacuum out the air. I honestly don't know if that makes a difference, but has anyone ever actually measured the temperature of a vacuum?
Just a thought.


I'm thinking using pipe insulation that's used for hot water pipes of the size I have will work. I'm hoping I can just slip it on and it will help things. Wrapping the res will be another thing due to it's odd shape but not impossible.

@ thlnk3r:

Have a few benchruns I did earlier that shows promise related to overall stability if I can improve things. What I want to do may work, maybe not but that won't stop me from trying...


----------



## BlackOmega

Maybe you could use something like a sleeping bag.


----------



## DesertRat

Could I have a little help in picking out a s939 opty, pweeze









http://www.overclock.net/amd-cpus/52...ml#post6407718

Thank you


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I thought you guys might get a kick out of this guys selling practices. See if you can tell me what's wrong w/this picture?










Quote:

$120.00 UPS Ground
LOL, first thing I look for









http://cgi1.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...seller=imicros

I reported it.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Have a few benchruns I did earlier that shows promise related to overall stability if I can improve things. What I want to do may work, maybe not but that won't stop me from trying...


Kryton, looking nice man. I really like that 4000+ overclock









Thanks for posting up the pictures. That's a very interesting setup you have there. Mad props for that!

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hueristic*


lol, first thing i look for









http://cgi1.ebay.com/ws/ebayisapi.dl...seller=imicros

i reported it.


 gj.


----------



## Blitz6804

Question for you cable managers... for the first time ever, my case looks exceptionally clean inside. The problem is, I have absolutely no clue how I am going to make the door close; any suggestions to make management on the backside better? I am too tired to even attempt to put the door on tonight.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Question for you cable managers... for the first time ever, my case looks exceptionally clean inside. The problem is, I have absolutely no clue how I am going to make the door close; any suggestions to make management on the backside better? I am too tired to even attempt to put the door on tonight.


Blitz, include some pictures and maybe we can point you in the right direction. For my CM690 I just used a lot of zip ties on the backside. I made everything really snug and tight. Don't worry it doesn't have to be neat...no one is going to see it









Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I have no pictures at present; my theory was just kinda wedge it in there and hope for the best. That is what I did in the interim step, but now with the final step (now that all hardware is in save the second video card) I would like to think I am better than that.


----------



## lokster

guys im wondering if this will work gaming wise? would an athlon 2.2ghz still game with the latest games, with a good video card of course. and 2gb of RAM


----------



## AYM2k

If you mean an athlon x2 4200 then I can tell ya DEFINITELY!!

My 2 brothers have this cpu and game great - one has the 939 version and one has the socket 940 am2 version.

8800gt 512 and the other just got the gts 250 and they play WoW, Age3, Civilzations, Cod5 all run smooth at up to 1600x1200

I have no idea about the single core version, but based on the fact that dual core only helps a few newer games - I'd say it will be fine!

BTW - and the one on the 939 has less than 2gb ram


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Kryton, looking nice man. I really like that 4000+ overclock









Thanks for posting up the pictures. That's a very interesting setup you have there. Mad props for that!

Good luck

Note the voltage I was using with this chip to do those runs with. This chip is awesome - Runs well, responds to voltage nicely and I know there's more in it if I can get the rest stable enough. I also have two other 4000+ chips that seems to be decent too, these being LCBBE stepping chips with a 0633 date on these.
I'll get around to testing the 0633 #60001 chip since the other one is in the wife's PC after I pulled the Opty 165 from it to use it again.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I have no pictures at present; my theory was just kinda wedge it in there and hope for the best. That is what I did in the interim step, but now with the final step (now that all hardware is in save the second video card) I would like to think I am better than that.

Blitz, that's exactly what I did. No one is going to see the other side of your case so whats the point of making it all clean. When you have time take a picture and share it with us.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *lokster* 
guys im wondering if this will work gaming wise? would an athlon 2.2ghz still game with the latest games, with a good video card of course. and 2gb of RAM

Lokster, I'm sure it could really handle any game...it just depends on how good you want the game to look. A lot of AA and AF may slow things down especially if you're running at a high resolution. If you have low expectations then I'm sure you'll be fine. What games do you have in mind?

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Question for you cable managers... for the first time ever, my case looks exceptionally clean inside. The problem is, I have absolutely no clue how I am going to make the door close; any suggestions to make management on the backside better? I am too tired to even attempt to put the door on tonight.

My CM 590 is the same way, especially with these PCP&C PSUs. In order for me to get the back cover on, I have to use both hands and 1 foot to hold all the cables in place, mind you they are ziptied :swearing:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *lokster* 
guys im wondering if this will work gaming wise? would an athlon 2.2ghz still game with the latest games, with a good video card of course. and 2gb of RAM

With my 3500+ and 1 of my 768 MB GSO's I can pretty much play anything out there with the exception of games like crysis. But no problems with any of the BF series or CSS or TF2 for that matter.

An 8800/9800 GT(X+) or GTS 250 (rebadged 9800GTX+) would play everything you could probably ever want. I bet it would even do well with a GTX260-216. Granted they're more expensive but much better cards.


----------



## Blitz6804

Since I finally got around to trying to be neat, I can certainly understand the appeal of a modular PSU now. However, I have not yet found a modular single-rail PSU, so I opted for single-rail over modular.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Since I finally got around to trying to be neat, I can certainly understand the appeal of a modular PSU now. However, I have not yet found a modular single-rail PSU, so I opted for single-rail over modular.


Blitz, not to mention modular power supplies have a lower efficiency rating as well.


----------



## Blitz6804

That was not as much of a consideration as a single-rail. Regardless of the efficiency, I will never be able to plug this system (now with its 1000 W PSU) into an outlet at my parents' house. Guaranteed breaker pop.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


That was not as much of a consideration as a single-rail. Regardless of the efficiency, I will never be able to plug this system (now with its 1000 W PSU) into an outlet at my parents' house. Guaranteed breaker pop.


That's really going to depend on how much of a current draw your system will place on the PSU and what it in turn will place on the household circuit. If all else is the same as before, it would probrably work if it did before without problems.

Worst that could happen is having to reset a breaker if you try it.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


That's really going to depend on how much of a current draw your system will place on the PSU and what it in turn will place on the household circuit. If all else is the same as before, it would probrably work if it did before without problems.


this is correct.


----------



## Blitz6804

My system prior (with the 750 W and stock-clocked Phenom) would periodically pop the breaker without the air conditioners turned on. They are on now. I do not stand a chance. I am fortunate in that I have each room with its own 20 A breaker instead of every third room getting a new 15 A breaker.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


My system prior (with the 750 W and stock-clocked Phenom) would periodically pop the breaker without the air conditioners turned on. They are on now. I do not stand a chance. I am fortunate in that I have each room with its own 20 A breaker instead of every third room getting a new 15 A breaker.


Don't tell anyone one but I swap out all the 15 amp breaker with 20's.







As long as you house isn't a fire hazard and the wiring is well insulated you will be fine.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I am fortunate in that I have each room with its own 20 A breaker instead of every third room getting a new 15 A breaker.


Blitz, you have a 20 amp circuit going to each room in your house?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Holy energon cubes, Batman!

I think Blitz needs to run a low-power Intel Core machine now.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz, you have a 20 amp circuit going to each room in your house?









I figured he meant he had the bedrooms on a 20 rather than a 15.


----------



## Blitz6804

At my parents' house, three bedrooms are on one 15 A breaker. The room I moved out of is on a 15 A breaker with the den. The living room, dining room, and halls are on another 15 A breaker, et cetera. The entire house is 150 A. My apartment is less than half the size and has 250 A total. I think I am fine. Also, LIPA likes to brown you down, often delivering downwards of 97 V in the summer. National Grid powers you via the falls, so they sometimes will over volt you if it has rained heavily; my UPS has kicked in a few times as voltages creep above 125 V.


----------



## lokster

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Lokster, I'm sure it could really handle any game...it just depends on how good you want the game to look. A lot of AA and AF may slow things down especially if you're running at a high resolution. If you have low expectations then I'm sure you'll be fine. What games do you have in mind?

Good luck

playing at 1280x1024 resolution and the latest games of course, Prototype and online CoD4, id like high detail but with my low reso i guess it wont be so much a problem

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
With my 3500+ and 1 of my 768 MB GSO's I can pretty much play anything out there with the exception of games like crysis. But no problems with any of the BF series or CSS or TF2 for that matter.

An 8800/9800 GT(X+) or GTS 250 (rebadged 9800GTX+) would play everything you could probably ever want. I bet it would even do well with a GTX260-216. Granted they're more expensive but much better cards.


that sounds great! ive got more confidence now for the build im doing,







hoping to build in time for prototype


----------



## froggy1986

Hey everyone.... I know its been a long time since I have been on here, but I'm having some major issues, and really need some help.

My computer had been acting up for a few days so I spoke to pio and antoher OCN member for some assistance on setting my ram back up to DDR450 and some other help. I began having random BSODs and shutdown/freezes shortly after, so we changed all my settings back the way they were... still no luck stopping the probs. After still having no luck, it was recommended that I just set all my settings in BIOS back to default, to be sure stability isnt the issue, so I did... Since then, it BSOD'd 2 times, and now wont boot.

I have switched the jumper back and forth to reset CMOS and even removed the battery overnight, as suggested... I have tried using the SATA hdd, and the IDE one, still nothing :'(... Everything appears to turn on and work just fine, other than my keyboard and monitor... Anyone have any suggestions on what to try now? Currently I have my rig out of the case, with just bare min hooked up to it, and still having the same probs :/

All help is much appreciated... Thanks in advance


----------



## Blitz6804

Try a Linux LiveCD. Your issue might be virus/spyware/boot-sector related.


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Try a Linux LiveCD. Your issue might be virus/spyware/boot-sector related.

With 2 dif HDD's? One doesnt even have anything installed, since I just got it.... The weird thing is, I had it running overnight and all day the following day, after running a virus scan and setting my settings back to the way I had them in BIOS... Then I went to play a game, and that was when it started BSODing on me again, nothing was found when running Avast and Malware Bytes or something like that either....
As for a Linux Live... I dont have one, nor a way to burn it since my computer wont start


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *lokster* 
playing at 1280x1024 resolution and the latest games of course, Prototype and online CoD4, id like high detail but with my low resolution i guess it wont be so much a problem

Lokster, you shouldn't have any problems then. After overclocking the processor you'll probably see some increase in performance as well.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *froggy1986* 
Everything appears to turn on and work just fine, other than my keyboard and monitor.

Froggy1986, sounds like your issue is more and more related to hardware and not software. Have you tried testing with a different power supply? Are you able to check the voltage rating on the cmos battery? A multimeter works best for this. The voltage should be at or above 3.0 volts.

Remove all of the memory and power up the machine. Does it give you any beep codes after doing this?

Good luck


----------



## Hueristic

Froggy what are your temps in bios? And voltages?


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Froggy what are your temps in bios? And voltages?


Well.... When I was able to get to BIOS, they were about: CPU= 53*C and Mobo= 48*C ... prior to setting everything back to default, and I was running stock Volts on everything.

EDIT: Voltages were as follows :
VCORE Voltage - 1.376
3.3v - 3.280v
5v - 5.080
12v - 11.904v

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Froggy1986, sounds like your issue is more and more related to hardware and not software. Have you tried testing with a different power supply? Are you able to check the voltage rating on the cmos battery? A multimeter works best for this. The voltage should be at or above 3.0 volts.

Remove all of the memory and power up the machine. Does it give you any beep codes after doing this?

Good luck


I'm begining to wonder if my CPU isnt the cause of the issues. I dont have a spare PSU atm, or any spare parts in general to test with. I have no idea about the voltage stuff either since I dont have a multimeter... All the testing supplies were left with pio when I moved out cuz I dunno how to use em anyways lol.

As for the beep codes.... I dont think it has a built in speaker on the mobo and I dont have one that i can hook up, so I dont know... I tried it and heard nothing other than the fans and stuff turning on though


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *froggy1986*


Well.... When I was able to get to BIOS, they were about: CPU= 53*C and Mobo= 48*C ... prior to setting everything back to default, and I was running stock Volts on everything.


Froggy1986, that temperature seems a little high for your processor. Granted the bios usually loads the processor around 80% or so but still that is a tad high. Have you tried re-seating? The motherboard temperature looks a little high as well but it's not uncommon to see it that high.

See my other suggestions above.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

That CPU is notorious for bogus temperature readings. At least, we think they are bogus. (I mean that exact Opty 170, not Opty 170s in general.)


----------



## froggy1986

UPDATE: I just reseated the CPU, and apparently my mobo does indeed have a speaker, i left the RAM out and sure enough it beeps at me, just a loud single long beep.... I put the RAM back in and tried to start it, and I still get that same single beep and now nothing is turning on, other than the mobo light and the speaker.

Ok so im a noob... Forgot to plug the IDE and GPU back up hehe.... the beep stopped and things are turning back on, but still not booting even to BIOS


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *froggy1986*


UPDATE: I just reseated the CPU, and apparently my mobo does indeed have a speaker, i left the RAM out and sure enough it beeps at me, just a loud single long beep.... I put the RAM back in and tried to start it, and I still get that same single beep and now nothing is turning on, other than the mobo light and the speaker.


Froggy, the motherboard beeping with the memory out is a good sign. Usually that means the motherboard isn't completely dead. Have you tried testing with just one stick of memory?

To rule out the power supply have you tested with a different one? Did you check the voltage on the cmos battery yet?

Good luck


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Froggy, the motherboard beeping with the memory out is a good sign. Usually that means the motherboard isn't completely dead. Have you tried testing with just one stick of memory?

To rule out the power supply have you tested with a different one? Did you check the voltage on the cmos battery yet?

Good luck


As stated before, the mobo didnt beep from lack of RAM alone, it did nothing, so I thought it didn't have a speaker hooked to it.... The beep was from either no HDD or not having the GPU plugged in lol...

I tried with both of the sticks alone, in every slot... no luck with that either. 
As for PSU I dont have access to one or to a multimeter because I have no way to get ahold of pio right now, because hes out of town with his g/f and her baby.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *froggy1986* 
i left the RAM *out* and sure enough it beeps at me, just a loud single long beep.

Froggy, sorry the above post by you sounded like you said it did beep with no memory installed.

Ahhh I see your edited post now. Do you have another socket 939 processor that you could throw in and test with?


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Ahhh I see your edited post now. Do you have another socket 939 processor that you could throw in and test with?


I really wish I did.... I have absolutely no spare parts that are compatible with my computer to check anything with, other than a empty SATA hdd, which I already tried both of the HDDs and no luck. :swearing:


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *froggy1986*


I really wish I did.... I have absolutely no spare parts that are compatible with my computer to check anything with, other than a empty SATA hdd, which I already tried both of the HDDs and no luck.


Froggy, I'm assuming you also don't have any memory to test with as well?


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Froggy, I'm assuming you also don't have any memory to test with as well?


Correct







The only way to test the mem has been trying one stick at a time, in each of the spots available, and that didn't have any improvements on anything either... I'm guessing I need to pretty much wait until I can get ahold of Pio and try to convince him to bring over his HTPC in order to get anything else worked out?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *froggy1986*


I'm guessing I need to pretty much wait until I can get ahold of Pio and try to convince him to bring over his HTPC in order to get anything else worked out?


Froggy, for testing purposes I would have to say yes. It's a lot easier troubleshoot when you have spare parts available. Hopefully someone else comes up with another suggestions. N2Gaming and Joe both know quite a bit about Asus motherboards. Maybe they can throw in their 2 cents.

Good luck


----------



## froggy1986

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Froggy, for testing purposes I would have to say yes. It's a lot easier troubleshoot when you have spare parts available. Hopefully someone else comes up with another suggestions. N2Gaming and Joe both know quite a bit about Asus motherboards. Maybe they can throw in their 2 cents.

Good luck










Thanks for trying to help... since I can't rep ya I will just say thanks a bunch... lol i figured it would pretty much boil down to needing to test parts out but figured it was worth a try...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Froggy, I'm afraid it's not a matter of settings, based on what I've read. My initial thought is that it might be a case of bad RAM (RAM does go bad if it's been subjected to higher-than-stock voltage without active cooling). Next suspect would be a dying board, especially if the chipset voltage has been raised past stock without a corresponding improvement in cooling, or if chipset cooling isn't adequate in the first place. The last thing I'd suspect would be the CPU.

Without the luxury or ability to swap parts for testing, though, it's just a guessing game.









At any rate, I hope the fates are kind and you get some help in your troubleshooting, Froggy!







If you were local to me, I'd happily lend you some parts for testing.


----------



## froggy1986

Thanks for the input Joe... I will keep that in mind, when I can get ahold of someone local with the spare parts, or a local shop that wont charge TOO much to take a look... I will keep ya guys posted.
Thanks again guys


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Froggy1986, that temperature seems a little high for your processor. Granted the bios usually loads the processor around 80% or so but still that is a tad high. Have you tried re-seating? The motherboard temperature looks a little high as well but it's not uncommon to see it that high.

See my other suggestions above.

Good luck


Yeah that sounds too high for idle. Clean out your HS and check you fans/ airflow ect. and if that fails reseat your HS.

*EDiT: OK guess I need to catch up on a thread before jumping in!









Froggy I would tear the whole thing down, blow out all the slots/sockets and put 1 dram/cpu and use onboard vid if there is any, otherwise your gpu (or another one [pci prefered]) to see if that works then slowley add pieces one you get it back up.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *froggy1986*


As stated before, the mobo didnt beep from lack of RAM alone, it did nothing, so I thought it didn't have a speaker hooked to it.... The beep was from either no HDD or not having the GPU plugged in lol...

I tried with both of the sticks alone, in every slot... no luck with that either. 
As for PSU I dont have access to one or to a multimeter because I have no way to get ahold of pio right now, because hes out of town with his g/f and her baby.


Normally I'd say the RAM itself is suspect of dying except you've tested each stick alone in every slot and still have the POST beeps but I'm thinking it's possible you may have a RAM issue that's not too serious as in it may not be as bad as it seems.

Here's a thought that may help - I've heard of folks taking RAM that was acting up and cleaning the contact teeth, then retesting and the RAM problems went away. It's kinda like the old Nintendo NES game cartridge trick when one wouldn't read correctly and you'd have to clean them to fix the problem along with the console's cartridge slot. If possible I'd also clean the RAM slots too. Only trick is getting in the slot to clean it's contact teeth as well. If the RAM slot's teeth are dirty, it will also cause issues no matter what sticks you try to use with it.


----------



## N2Gaming

Good Point Kryton, I normally use an old toothbrush preferably one w/the little rubber bristles between the normal nylon bristles to clean the ram slots on the mobo. Sometimes I'll venture into using an electric toothbrush on mobo and an electric eraser on the ram itself...









Good Luck,

N2G


----------



## froggy1986

Thanks guys.. I will try cleaning every nook and cranny and see if it helps any... afterall it cant hurt anything to make my comp a bit cleaner and less dusty lol.


----------



## thlnk3r

Froggy, on top of Kryton and N2Gaming's suggestion throw in some isopropyl alcohol into the mix. Just dab the toothbrush in the container a little bit and start cleaning. 90% should be perfectly fine. 70% may have to much water and leave a residue.

Good luck


----------



## Hueristic

Don't forget to blow it out first though! otherwise you can just push articles under pins/connectors.


----------



## Blitz6804

After using the IPA, wait at least 10 minutes for it to entirely evaporate if you use 90%. Give 70% at least an hour. 97% should be good to go immediately.


----------



## BlackOmega

Froggy, I too had an OC go haywire on my old A8N32SLI deluxe. Basically the same thing happened. No video, no BIOS,I thought I had fried my board. 
At any rate, I contacted Asus and they said to try the "hard" cmos reset. You pop the battery out, put it in backwards for 30 seconds then install normally. Also, when you do this make sure that the switch on the PSU is off and before you do the reset procedure, press and hold the power button ~10seconds to discharge any charged capacitors on the board. 
Also, it couldn't hurt to strip your rig down to as slim as possible just to rule out any other component.

And as everyone else has stated, your temps are WAY too high especially for the board. With mine I NEVER saw MB temps that high. 
And considering that your MB temp is that high, I wouldn't doubt that your CPU is getting too hot as well.
Are you using PCprobe to monitor temps? I use coretemp to monitor my CPU temps. It works very well.
Good Luck Froggy









And now for my issue. I just set up folding rig number 2. Only problem is that the 2nd GPU is not showing upin windows. Do you guys think I need to move the SLI jumpers for the board to see the 2nd GPU (even though I don't have SLI enabled yet)? I know both the slots work individually but I've never had them both populated at the same time.


----------



## Blitz6804

I believe you must have the jumpers in SLI mode to use two cards; they change from 16x / 1x to 8x / 8x. Then the software determines if you use them in tandem or independently.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I believe you must have the jumpers in SLI mode to use two cards; they change from 16x / 1x to 8x / 8x. Then the software determines if you use them in tandem or independently.

Let me give you a few more details. Folding rig no.2 consists of a DFI LP Ultra-D, 3500+, 1GB hyperx, WD2500KS (250GB, SE-16 model), 2x Asus 9600GSO 384MB (96 SP) all in a CM Elite 333 case turd: going to mod soon).

I have been planning on doing the SLI mod to this board but I've been having difficulty finding electro-conductive liquid or pens. The only thing I've managed to find was the stuff used to repair rear window defoggers in cars, which turns out to be a liquid copper adhesive, and it needs 24 hours of cure time.

So I am wondering if the reason why its not seeing the 2nd card is because the SLI jumpers aren't in SLI mode. Do the jumpers _need_ to be in the SLI position to see 2 cards? Even though the board technically doesn't support SLI


----------



## Blitz6804

I believe they do. As for the SLI mod: using a standard #2 pencil is supposedly sufficient for testing purposes. The advantage of this is that if you ever want to undo it, you can do so by using a pencil eraser.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
So I am wondering if the reason why its not seeing the 2nd card is because the SLI jumpers aren't in SLI mode. Do the jumpers _need_ to be in the SLI position to see 2 cards? Even though the board technically doesn't support SLI

BlackOmega, could it be that the mod just simply didn't work?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I believe they do. As for the SLI mod: using a standard #2 pencil is supposedly sufficient for testing purposes. The advantage of this is that if you ever want to undo it, you can do so by using a pencil eraser.

I've seen a trick w/number 2 pencil led to start a fire w/just the bare pencil lead stripped from the wood and a 120v electrical outlet. They put two pieces of lead into the wall socket and a third across the two to connect them to make a quick heating element like on a stove and then tossed a piece of tissue paper on it to start a fire. From that little bit I'd assume the number 2 Pencil is conductive and I'd think the number two pencil trick on your Ultra D would be worth a shot.


----------



## Blitz6804

It should be noted that the voltage across the nForce4 chip is markedly lower than 120 V, so fire should not be a risk here. However, yes, the principle element (carbon in the form of graphite) of the standard pencil is conductive.


----------



## N2Gaming

eXaCtLy


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, could it be that the mod just simply didn't work?









I haven't actually modded it yet.








I was debating how I should go about doing it. I've been hesitant in using the rear window defogger stuff because its adhesive.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I believe they do. As for the SLI mod: using a standard #2 pencil is supposedly sufficient for testing purposes. The advantage of this is that if you ever want to undo it, you can do so by using a pencil eraser.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I've seen a trick w/number 2 pencil led to start a fire w/just the bare pencil lead stripped from the wood and a 120v electrical outlet. They put two pieces of lead into the wall socket and a third across the two to connect them to make a quick heating element like on a stove and then tossed a piece of tissue paper on it to start a fire. From that little bit I'd assume the number 2 Pencil is conductive and I'd think the number two pencil trick on your Ultra D would be worth a shot.

I was debating on trying the no.2 pencil trick. I read about it in the mod write up (techpowerup I believe). But I was wondering about the longevitey of it and also how good the connection would even be since the gap is SO small it'd hard to tell whether it made a connection or not.
I think I might just get a soldering iron and mod it to a MUCH finer point as most of the ones I've seen have relatively large tips.

And when I was a kid I used to do that trick. Strip down a pencil stick 2 pieces in the outlet, then get a 3rd piece tie a piece of tissue around the center then short the circuit and it would catch on fire.







One way to light a smoke


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I haven't actually modded it yet.








I was debating how I should go about doing it. I've been hesitant in using the rear window defogger stuff because its adhesive.


BlackOmega, sorry I wasn't sure from your previous post. It sounded like you did try it but then it didn't. Since you haven't yet let's get this show on the road. I'm waiting patiently for results









Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I would suspect you can test if the connection is made with a multimeter. If you have a voltage difference, it is not connected. If there is no voltage difference, you have successfully shorted the jumper.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, sorry I wasn't sure from your previous post. It sounded like you did try it but then it didn't. Since you haven't yet let's get this show on the road. I'm waiting patiently for results









Good luck


 That'll have to wait until the wee hours of the morning probably. ATM, I have to study for a medical terminology test that I have in about 2 hours covering 2 chapters.








I'm going to have to tear it down some later anyway to move the jumpers and reseat the NB & CPU with OCZ freeze. I'm contemplating lapping the NB like I did my other one since the temps I'm seeing on this board are considerably higher than my other one that does have the lapped heat sink. ~10*C higher. Then again it might be the orb style heat sinks on the new GPUs', possibly blowing hot air in to the NB fan intake.









PS: I don't know if I'm going to use the rear window defogger stuff since it takes 24hours to cure









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I would suspect you can test if the connection is made with a multimeter. If you have a voltage difference, it is not connected. If there is no voltage difference, you have successfully shorted the jumper.


 That's exactly how I was going to test it. Get a before and after reading and also reversing polarities.


----------



## thlnk3r

BlackOmega, don't forget also that DFI was told by Nvidia to re-engineer their DFI Ultra-D's so that the SLI mod wouldn't be possible. Only the very really boards were capable of this mod. Anything past mid-2006 I impossible.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I'm contemplating lapping the NB like I did my other one since the temps I'm seeing on this board are considerably higher than my other one that does have the lapped heat sink. ~10*C higher.

Is this the stock chipset cooler that you're speaking of?

Good luck


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, don't forget also that DFI was told by Nvidia to re-engineer their DFI Ultra-D's so that the SLI mod wouldn't be possible. Only the very really boards were capable of this mod. Anything past mid-2006 I impossible.

The only difference is that they put some glue or epoxy over the contacts to stop access to them. It is still easy to remove the glue and complete the SLI circuit.


----------



## GuardianOdin

woot! Well fella's I couldn't get the SLI working on my friends PC,BUT I was able to run the second 8600GT as a PhysX card







with my 8800GT. Gonna go play some games and see how it fairs


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


The only difference is that they put some glue or epoxy over the contacts to stop access to them. It is still easy to remove the glue and complete the SLI circuit.


Nate, sorry but from what I understand it's not even possible...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Here's something you fellas with the Ultra Ds might be inconveniently forgetting (or refusing to acknowledge): The old SLI mod won't work not only due to the reasons thlnk3r cited (i.e., the hardware level), but also due to nVidia themselves not allowing it at the driver level as well. Unless you're going to be running really ancient display drivers from circa 2006 on an successfully SLI-modded motherboard, I believe you run a huge risk of terminally damaging your Ultra D.

Proceed at your own risk, as the saying goes.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Here's something you fellas with the Ultra Ds might be inconveniently forgetting (or refusing to acknowledge): The old SLI mod won't work not only due to the reasons thlnk3r cited (i.e., the hardware level), but also due to nVidia themselves not allowing it at the driver level as well. Unless you're going to be running really ancient display drivers from circa 2006 on an successfully SLI-modded motherboard, I believe you run a huge risk of terminally damaging your Ultra D.

Proceed at your own risk, as the saying goes.










That would be why I bought the Expert.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Quote:
Originally Posted by *blitz6804*  
_I would suspect you can test if the connection is made with a multimeter. If you have a voltage difference, it is not connected. If there is no voltage difference, you have successfully shorted the jumper._

That's exactly how I was going to test it. Get a before and after reading and also reversing polarities.


I would be a little cautious using the voltage method, maybe setting the DMM to read Ohms resistance would be a safer bet.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


That would be why I bought the Expert.










I wish the Expert was available when I bough my SLI DR.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

The Ultra D is still a fearsome OCer. The only things you don't get compared to an SLI/SLI-DR or an Expert/Venus board are SLI capability (over-rated, in my opinion, anyway) and the SiI SATA controller and its four extra SATA ports.

If all you want is a motherboard which is a good bet for OCing a S939 chip, one of the best deals to be had is a healthy DFI LP UT Ultra D.


----------



## BlackOmega

While I have read about nvidia disabling through drivers the ability to SLI the Ultra-d board, I think it was done because ultra SLI did almost as well as "real" SLI. From the results I have seen it was within 5FPS. Ultra SLI ran @ 16x/2x.

And from what I remember when I had my A8N32, the SLIx16 and just the regular NF4 ultra drivers were the same. They were identical in file size and even had the same # (15.23). So I am wondering if nvidia just separates them to give people the impression that they're different. 
Since this is going to be my folding rig I don't know if I'll get around to modding this particular board (have to study the nervous system this week). But I'll mod my sig rig just for :turd: and giggles.


----------



## Hueristic

BO you may have to roll back your bois for that hack to work.

Also I;m not sure about that specific board but most(all i think) boards can run multiple gpu's without any sli or crossfire at all. This has been done since win98.


----------



## thlnk3r

BlackOmega, I'm not familiar with [email protected] too much but can't you just run the two video cards and still be able to fold (none SLI mode)?

EDIT: Hueristic, great minds think alike


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


BO you may have to roll back your bois for that hack to work.

Also I;m not sure about that specific board but most(all i think) boards can run multiple gpu's without any sli or crossfire at all. This has been done since win98.


 Both of my ultra d boards are early boards (no epoxy resin over the pins on the NF4 chip), AFAIK they still have early BIOSes. Circa 2006. I haven't had the need to update them. 
The issue I'm having is my new folding rig won't detect the 2nd GPU. When I get home (Im in class right now), I'll probably move the jumpers over to the SLI position on the board and see if it detects. But so far I have one of them folding as we speak. I'm hoping for 12-14kPPD.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


The issue I'm having is my new folding rig won't detect the 2nd GPU. When I get home (Im in class right now), I'll probably move the jumpers over to the SLI position on the board and see if it detects. But so far I have one of them folding as we speak. I'm hoping for 12-14kPPD.


BlackOmega, is the above statement referencing the same computer or are they separate? Your "folding rig" should detect the other video card regardless if it's not in SLI mode. What if you wanted to run dual screens? Do you see my point? Perhaps I'm just confused. There is a lot of new builds/projects floating around in this thread









Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, is the above statement referencing the same computer or are they separate? Your "folding rig" should detect the other video card regardless if it's not in SLI mode. What if you wanted to run dual screens? Do you see my point? Perhaps I'm just confused. There is a lot of new builds/projects floating around in this thread









Good luck


 Thats all pertaining to folding rig 2. Folding rig 1 is still folding away.

And I too thought it would detect both cards regardless of jumper position. But for some reason its not detecting card2. I'm going to swap them later and see if that changes anything. And if there is no change I'm going to move the jumpers and see if that helps.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
And I too thought it would detect both cards regardless of jumper position. But for some reason its not detecting card2. I'm going to swap them later and see if that changes anything. And if there is no change I'm going to move the jumpers and see if that helps.

BlackOmega, for folding rig number 2 did you go through the BIOS to make sure there wasn't any options that required to be enabled to run a second video card (non-SLI mode)? My SLI-DR has a similar option in the overclocking menu. Just a thought...

Good luck bud


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, for folding rig number 2 did you go through the BIOS to make sure there wasn't any options that required to be enabled to run a second video card (non-SLI mode)? My SLI-DR has a similar option in the overclocking menu. Just a thought...

Good luck bud

There is some sort of SLI apprature setting but when I enabled it, the rig BSODed.







I actually had quite a time last night getting it set up. I'll check it again when I get home, well when the kids go to bed.

Just had a thought maybe when I enable the SLI aperature setting the jumpers need to be in SLI mode for it work.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


There is some sort of SLI apprature setting but when I enabled it, the rig BSODed.







I actually had quite a time last night getting it set up. I'll check it again when I get home, well when the kids go to bed.

Just had a thought maybe when I enable the SLI aperature setting the jumpers need to be in SLI mode for it work.










I was able to run my SLI DR w/the sli jumpers in the sli position w/only one vid card if that helps any. I did how ever switch it back just to be on the safe side...

EDIT:

Hey all you DFI'rs I just came accross this NB cooler. I think it's worth looking into for all the NF4 series mobo's any way...


----------



## Blitz6804

In order to run [email protected] on two GPUs, you need to disable SLI or Crossfire in the software. Else, you can only run one instance and not two. Further, if you are running Vista, you must have each card with a monitor or dummy plug attached and the desktop extended onto that monitor.

None of this helps if you cannot see both cards in GPU-Z when you boot the PC.

I would, for the sake of argument, just try moving the SLI jumpers over.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Hey all you DFI'rs I just came accross this NB cooler. I think it's worth looking into for all the NF4 series mobo's any way...

N2Gaming, I have that chipset cooler. It actually works pretty well. The hardware that comes with the cooler to keep it attached to the board is not that great though. I swapped out the two plastic push-pins with screws and nuts. I also used small washers so I could tighten it down more. Before the cooler would easily move around but with the screws...not anymore. The base of the HR-05-SLI definitely needs a lap. I also recommend cleaning the nForce4 chip before putting the cooler on. The stock cooler always left that nasty gummy stuff. It'll get on the Thermalright cooler and never come off









Positioning the cooler was really the only thing that annoyed me. My SI-128 didn't allow me to mount it above the video card and I also couldn't mount it below the video card because of some PCI devices.

Good luck


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, I have that chipset cooler. It actually works pretty well. The hardware that comes with the cooler to keep it attached to the board is not that great though. I swapped out the two plastic push-pins with screws and nuts. I also used small washers so I could tighten it down more. Before the cooler would easily move around but with the screws...not anymore. The base of the HR-05-SLI definitely needs a lap. I also recommend cleaning the nForce4 chip before putting the cooler on. The stock cooler always left that nasty gummy stuff. It'll get on the Thermalright cooler and never come off









Positioning the cooler was really the only thing that annoyed me. My SI-128 didn't allow me to mount it above the video card and I also couldn't mount it below the video card because of some PCI devices.

Good luck



Xigmatek has a similar cooler, for the same price, but it comes with a screw down method. Which is much nicer.

I run this thing on my Foxconn X38A Digital Life.


----------



## BlackOmega

Well guys I am at a loss now. I have tried running both cards with the jumpers in SLI and not, SLI aperature setting enabled and disabled. I tested each card individually and they both work as they should. Yet they both do not show in any program or device manager.
I am going to try to use the NF4 SLI driver (even though I believe it to be the same as the NF4 ultra), and see if there really is a difference.

Anyone have any other ideas?

EDIT: Heres all the products supported by the 15.23 driver.
Windows XP 32-bit Driver Versions:

* Ethernet Driver (v67.89) WHQL
* Network Management Tools (v67.91) "Sedona"
* SATAIDE Driver (v10.3.0.42) WHQL
* SATARAID Driver (v10.3.0.42) WHQL
* RAIDTOOL Application (v10.3.0.42)
* SMU Driver (v1.61) WHQL
* SMBus Driver (v4.69) WHQL
* Away Mode Driver (v6.0.6000.107) WHQL
* Installer (v6.14)

nForce 790i Ultra SLI
nForce 790i SLI
nForce 780i SLI
nForce 750i SLI
nForce 680i SLI
nForce 680a SLI
nForce 680i LT SLI
nForce 650i SLI
nForce 650i Ultra
nForce 590 SLI Intel
nForce 590 SLI AMD
nForce 570 SLI Intel
nForce 570 SLI AMD
nForce 570 Ultra AMD
nForce 560
nForce 550
nForce 520
nForce4 SLI X16 Intel
nForce4 SLI X16 AMD
nForce4 SLI Intel
nForce4 SLI AMD
nForce4 SLI XE Intel
nForce4 Ultra Intel
nForce4 Ultra AMD
nForce4 AMD


----------



## N2Gaming

BO did you forget my chipset? 780a SLI? or does that driver not support it.

So you are able to see a card in either slot but unable to see both cards in both slots at the same time. It's prolly a dumb bios setting or some kind of driver issue that you are checking into now.

Good Luck,

N2G


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Maybe the board is simply not engineered to accept two PCI-E cards running simultaneously if they're not in SLI? I personally have never tried this on any dual-PCI-E slot board, but can a multi-slot PCI-E graphics board run more than one PCI-E video card simultaneously even if it's not in SLI or Crossfire mode?

I have a thought in mind that no one seems to have suggested yet, but it flies in the face of all I've said about the Ultra D, and that is perhaps it's necessary to run the two video cards with the SLI bridge in place. This is counter-intuitive to me, as I believe the SLI bridge is only necessary if you're running in SLI. Since this is an Ultra D, logic and intuition say that the SLI bridge is unnecessary. But it's something you can try.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 

Xigmatek has a similar cooler, for the same price, but it comes with a screw down method. Which is much nicer.

I run this thing on my Foxconn X38A Digital Life.

How do you like your Foxconn?


----------



## Blitz6804

The SLI bridge (or crossfire bridge) are only required when running in SLI or crossfire. For most multi-PCIe slot boards, it is possible to run multiple cards sans any sort of interface technology running. Some lower end cards of each (I think the 8600 GT on the nVidia side, the x1600 on the ATi side) do not require bridges even when linked.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
BO did you forget my chipset? 780a SLI? or does that driver not support it.

So you are able to see a card in either slot but unable to see both cards in both slots at the same time. It's prolly a dumb bios setting or some kind of driver issue that you are checking into now.

Good Luck,

N2G


I copy/pasted that directly from nvidia's site. And thats exactly it N2 I can see either card in either slot, but not both simultaneously.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Maybe the board is simply not engineered to accept two PCI-E cards running simultaneously if they're not in SLI? I personally have never tried this on any dual-PCI-E slot board, but can a multi-slot PCI-E graphics board run more than one PCI-E video card simultaneously even if it's not in SLI or Crossfire mode?

I have a thought in mind that no one seems to have suggested yet, but it flies in the face of all I've said about the Ultra D, and that is perhaps it's necessary to run the two video cards with the SLI bridge in place. This is counter-intuitive to me, as I believe the SLI bridge is only necessary if you're running in SLI. Since this is an Ultra D, logic and intuition say that the SLI bridge is unnecessary. But it's something you can try.









I'll give it a shot Joe, whats the worst that could happen?


----------



## Blitz6804

I do not know about SLI, but I know with ATi, having the crossfire bridge in will have no effect (good or bad) if crossfire is disabled.


----------



## N2Gaming

That sounds like it makes a little sense to me any way. If you have two cards and want the system to use both cards in either sli or non sli and you switch the jumpers on the mobo to the sli configuration it may work. Maybe all those jumpers are for is so the mobo detects two video cards at the same time. I don't think you will be able to sli unless you set the bridge over the two cards any way so maybe those jumpers on the mobo are just so the mobo can detect two diff video cards? It's worth a shot...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Whatever happens, BlackOmega, please do let us know.


----------



## Blitz6804

The SLI jumpers on the motherboard change the system from using 16x/1x (or is it 2x?) to using 8x/8x. The jumpers replace the older technology of switch cards. That is, in order to use a single GPU at 16x, you had to put the GPU in one slot and the switch card in the other slot.


----------



## BlackOmega

OK so I put the SLI bridge on, no change. Still doesn't detect.

Blitz, the board is 16x/2x.

I'm going to remove the top slot card to verify that indeed the lower slot still works. But that'll be a little bit later, I have got to take a nap, Im dead tired.


----------



## nategr8ns

BO, try a single card in the bottom slot to see if that's your problem.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Maybe the board is simply not engineered to accept two PCI-E cards running simultaneously if they're not in SLI? I personally have never tried this on any dual-PCI-E slot board, but can a multi-slot PCI-E graphics board run more than one PCI-E video card simultaneously even if it's not in SLI or Crossfire mode?

I have a thought in mind that no one seems to have suggested yet, but it flies in the face of all I've said about the Ultra D, and that is perhaps it's necessary to run the two video cards with the SLI bridge in place. This is counter-intuitive to me, as I believe the SLI bridge is only necessary if you're running in SLI. Since this is an Ultra D, logic and intuition say that the SLI bridge is unnecessary. But it's something you can try.









Having two cards in, in non SLi should work just fine.

On my EVGA 590 SLi, I was able to have 2 8800GTS 640's in with no SLi bridge folding just fine.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
How do you like your Foxconn?

I love that Foxconn board. The BIOS is alright. It over clocks well. Though, that DDR3 I have really holds it back.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
The SLI bridge (or crossfire bridge) are only required when running in SLI or crossfire. For most multi-PCIe slot boards, it is possible to run multiple cards sans any sort of interface technology running. Some lower end cards of each (I think the 8600 GT on the nVidia side, the x1600 on the ATi side) do not require bridges even when linked.

the x1600 did not need a bridge because it used the older Crossfire not the newer CrossfireX which does require a bridge. Just like SLi.

The bridge allows the 2 cards to communicate, the only time where a bridge is not needed, is in Hybrid SLi/CrossfireX


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
BO, try a single card in the bottom slot to see if that's your problem.

Nate, that should work without any problems. I just think this board can't run dual pci-e video cards (not referring to SLI). Some of the manufacturers specifically state on their website whether or not dual video cards are supported.

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
BO, try a single card in the bottom slot to see if that's your problem.

I'm planning on trying that pretty soon here. Gonna go watch a movie with my wife.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Nate, that should work without any problems. I just think this board can't run dual pci-e video cards (not referring to SLI). Some of the manufacturers specifically state on their website whether or not dual video cards are supported.

Good luck

Th|nk3r, some boards do not support dual cards, but these specifically do. As i've come to find out all Ultra-D boards are in fact Ultra DxG (dual express graphics) boards. Both of mine say it and so does Nate's.
I suppose if worse comes to worse I'll just pull the board out of my sig rig and use that since I only need one functioning slot.

And one more thing, I went out and bought a soldering iron to SLi mod the board (after I verify that the lower slot does in fact work).







. I'll be sure to take pics and post screen shots when I'm done.


----------



## Hueristic

BO, since your folding on that board I would back up the bios and flash to the latest and see if that does the trick. It may be a bug that was addressed. Check out the bios update faq and see if it's in there.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Th|nk3r, some boards do not support dual cards, but these specifically do. As i've come to find out all Ultra-D boards are in fact Ultra DxG (dual express graphics) boards. Both of mine say it and so does Nate's.

BlackOmega, thanks for clarifying. Yeah I just wasn't sure. I mean obviously multiple video cards would work ie. PCI slots but with PCI-E...I was unsure.

Hope the soldering gun works out for this mod.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I went out and bought a soldering iron to SLi mod the board (after I verify that the lower slot does in fact work).







. I'll be sure to take pics and post screen shots when I'm done.









Hey BO, I would try the temporary pencil mod first just to make sure every thing is a ok before you try the soldering iron. This way if it don't work then you wond always be wondering if you fried the sli feature of the chip set ... $0.02


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
BO, since your folding on that board I would back up the bios and flash to the latest and see if that does the trick. It may be a bug that was addressed. Check out the bios update faq and see if it's in there.

I will do that as a last resort. I do definitely want to keep this BIOS because it has the SLI setting in it. I think DFI removed it on their later revisions due to flak from Nvidia.
However, the only thing on DFI's site is an auto BIOS installer kind of like Asus update.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, thanks for clarifying. Yeah I just wasn't sure. I mean obviously multiple video cards would work ie. PCI slots but with PCI-E...I was unsure.

Hope the soldering gun works out for this mod.

Good luck

Well I've verified that both cards and both PCIe slots work individually. SO either I am missing a setting somewhere in the BIOS or when 2 cards are inserted the lower slot gets deactivated.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Hey BO, I would try the temporary pencil mod first just to make sure every thing is a ok before you try the soldering iron. This way if it don't work then you wond always be wondering if you fried the sli feature of the chip set ... $0.02


I suppose you're right. I'm just getting sick of messing with this thing. :swearing:
Ok I'll do the no.2 pencil thing first then, if everything goes well I'll make it "permanent".


----------



## BlackOmega

SO I tried the pencil mod, and well I'm not sure if it worked or not since it still doesn't pick up the 2nd GPU. How ever I did notice that there was resistance with the no2 pencil mod.


----------



## Kryton

Let me do some research - I believe I know someone who's done this mod successfully.

I'll get back with you as soon as I find out something or maybe a "How To" link.


----------



## Blitz6804

Thlnk3r, I finally got around to doing testing just for you, as promised a while ago. Results are in my build thread.


----------



## Tator Tot

Hey guys, I have a chance to pick up a Opteron 185 for my A64 3800 + 80$ cash.

Do you guys think it's worth it?

I don't really use the machine, but I'll make use of the chip. I'm just wondering if it's worth the price & trade.

Stepping is LCB9E, any good for overclocking? Which is my main goal.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


However, the only thing on DFI's site is an auto BIOS installer kind of like Asus update.


Yeah, not surprising. Probably the way they forced peops not to downgrade.

I'll bet if you just use the bios flash for the cmos and the bois file it will work fine. Do a google and I bet you'll find tons of peops that are sharing those bios files and the flasher.









This mod was big news a few years back and there are threads everywhere.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Hey guys, I have a chance to pick up a Opteron 185 for my A64 3800 + 80$ cash.

Do you guys think it's worth it?

I don't really use the machine, but I'll make use of the chip. I'm just wondering if it's worth the price & trade.

Stepping is LCB9E, any good for overclocking? Which is my main goal.


LCB9Es are usually good OCers.

Price is good for a healthy chip, in my opinion (I'd do it, were I in your shoes).


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


LCB9Es are usually good OCers.

Price is good for a healthy chip, in my opinion (I'd do it, were I in your shoes).










Ah, by the way, if it makes a difference, it'll be on an A8N32-SLi, does that change opinion at all? I know it's a good board for 939, but I'm not sure if it has certain issues with Opteron chips or anything oddball like that?

What do you think the max I'll be able to pull from the chip? I know that's always relative, but estimates of what to expect are always nice.

It's gonna be cooled with a lapped Scythe Mugen 2 w/ 2 Gentle Typhoon 2400 RPM fans.

Ala, T.R.U.E level performance.









Again, thanks for your time Joe


----------



## Blitz6804

Joe runs an Asus A8N32-SLI, as does Pioneerisloud, and Froggy1986 with Opterons; the combo is sound. Personally, I would likely take that upgrade, the Opteron 185 is a good chip on its own (the equivalent of an FX-60 but with a locked multiplier) and the stepping is quite enticing. I would be willing to say you will get 2.8 GHz or better on stock voltage.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Hey guys, I have a chance to pick up a Opteron 185 for my A64 3800 + 80$ cash.

Do you guys think it's worth it?

I don't really use the machine, but I'll make use of the chip. I'm just wondering if it's worth the price & trade.

Stepping is LCB9E, any good for overclocking? Which is my main goal.


 Thats a good trade if your 3800 is a single core. Considering I paid ~$180 for my opty 180. Its also the LCB9E stepping, which seem to be good CPU's for OCing. @ stock clock I can undervolt it, and at stock voltage I can OC it ~500mhz. After that it starts to require more voltage for anything over 2950MHz.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Yeah, not surprising. Probably the way they forced peops not to downgrade.

I'll bet if you just use the bios flash for the cmos and the bois file it will work fine. Do a google and I bet you'll find tons of peops that are sharing those bios files and the flasher.









This mod was big news a few years back and there are threads everywhere.


Yea I'll have to find a way to do it manually.

I was thinking that the cards in tandem might be drawing too much power. I think I'm going to try putting my 6800's in and see if both of those show up. I figure if they both show then my PSU might inadequate to power the GSO's.







just a thought I had.


----------



## Tator Tot

Thanks blitz & BlackOmega

I know that it's an FX-60 w/ locked multi. I could actually pick up a FX-60 CCB2E, but I actually wanted to test my abilities in overclocking, and not just do a multi bump.

It's an old buddy of mine, and he has both (That AMD fanboi







)

Any recommendations for the chip? It still has the lid, and I"ll probably lap it. Might not as first, depending on how it does on the Razor Blade test.

Any settings you know that these chips like?

I'm going to run 2x1gb GeIL DDR 400 3-4-3-8 RAM.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Ah, by the way, if it makes a difference, it'll be on an A8N32-SLi, does that change opinion at all? I know it's a good board for 939, but I'm not sure if it has certain issues with Opteron chips or anything oddball like that?

What do you think the max I'll be able to pull from the chip? I know that's always relative, but estimates of what to expect are always nice.

It's gonna be cooled with a lapped Scythe Mugen 2 w/ 2 Gentle Typhoon 2400 RPM fans.

Ala, T.R.U.E level performance.









Again, thanks for your time Joe










 The A8N32sli deluxe is a good board. I had one with an opty 165 on it for years. OC's pretty well, lots of options, good stock cooling. There really isn't anything bad about it.

As for possible OC outcome, I'd say if the chip hasn't been abused you should be able to see 3.1 pretty easy. Now keeping it cool enough to run at that clock will be your biggest concern.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


The A8N32sli deluxe is a good board. I had one with an opty 165 on it for years. OC's pretty well, lots of options, good stock cooling. There really isn't anything bad about it.

As for possible OC outcome, I'd say if the chip hasn't been abused you should be able to see 3.1 pretty easy. Now keeping it cool enough to run at that clock will be your biggest concern.


We'll I'm sitting @ 24*C ambient right now.

With the Mugen 2 I think I should be fine if I can get it that high.

How well did your Opteron do with DDR 500? Or did you use 400?

Do you remember the timings you used?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Thanks blitz & BlackOmega

I know that it's an FX-60 w/ locked multi. I could actually pick up a FX-60 CCB2E, but I actually wanted to test my abilities in overclocking, and not just do a multi bump.

It's an old buddy of mine, and he has both (That AMD fanboi







)

Any recommendations for the chip? It still has the lid, and I"ll probably lap it. Might not as first, depending on how it does on the Razor Blade test. 
*
Any settings you know that these chips like? *

I'm going to run 2x1gb GeIL DDR 400 3-4-3-8 RAM.


 Until you get everything dialed in, keep you ram at or below 200Mhz. And set all the timings, including command rate to auto. You'll be surprised at what it'll set it to. When I was messing with mine, it set my Hyper-x to 2-2-2-5 timings, but that RAM destabilizes severely anything over 200MHz unfortunately. 
The only obstacle I can foresee is the lack of RAM dividers (thats why I went DFI), you'll have to sit down and figure out what multiplier's you'll need to make everything jive. Not difficult, but can become rather time consuming.

FX-60's are nice chips. Out of curiosity, what does he want for it?


----------



## Blitz6804

With my experiments with both the Athlon X2 5400+ and the Phenom II 940, I have to say upwardly unlocked multipliers are fairly worthless. Downwardly unlocked multipliers are absolutely necessary for the best system configuration.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


FX-60's are nice chips. Out of curiosity, what does he want for it?


Not for sale, he's selling one of the chips because the opteron currently runs a file box, the other he is keeping for his Lan gamer.

He has the EVGA mATX SLi board with the FX-60 (he hates that board by the way)

He's just trying to downgrade the setup/get some cash for his future Phenom II rig.

He's currently waiting to see if us consumers can pick up the Phenom II TWKR chips or not.

Either way, thanks for the info on the RAM. I don't have an issue with working out dividers, I have to do that on my current AM2 setup. As it has no solid options for that either.

Any specific BIOS to use with that board?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


With my experiments with both the Athlon X2 5400+ and the Phenom II 940, I have to say upwardly unlocked multipliers are fairly worthless. Downwardly unlocked multipliers are absolutely necessary for the best system configuration.


Why do you say this Blitz? I find unlocked Multi's on the AMD side a God Send.

They make overclocking the easiest thing in the book.

You can set RAM to DDR2 1066 Cas 5 (or 800 Cas 4 if that's what you have for your Athlon 64 x2)

Bump up the multi & voltage.

And lock the HTT Multi @ 9x

It's little to no tweaking for high overclocks.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


We'll I'm sitting @ 24*C ambient right now.

With the Mugen 2 I think I should be fine if I can get it that high.

How well did your Opteron do with DDR 500? Or did you use 400?

Do you remember the timings you used?


 You'll need lots of voltage to get it that high, I would even surmise that you need ~1.5v+/- 0.5v. And since optys run hot as it is, you'll see what I mean when I say keeping it cool will become a big challenge w/o lapping or delidding. 
Lapping does wonders though, I'm running my lapped 3800x2 with a lapped Big Typhoon and @ full load I have yet to see anything over 39*C (coretemp) in a 26*C room. I have actually been able to run relatively high voltage through it and keep it cool because the cooler works so well with this chip. Just as well as a delidded one.









And with the 165 I only ran the hyperx so it stayed @ 400. Now my 180 on the other hand I've run with my Corsairs and have been able to get them to 450 with no issues. If I ever get active cooling for them I bet I'll be able to see 500, they're really good sticks for the most part (I had to RMA 1 set).


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Not for sale, he's selling one of the chips because the opteron currently runs a file box, the other he is keeping for his Lan gamer.

He has the EVGA mATX SLi board with the FX-60 (he hates that board by the way)

He's just trying to downgrade the setup/get some cash for his future Phenom II rig.

He's currently waiting to see if us consumers can pick up the Phenom II TWKR chips or not.

Either way, thanks for the info on the RAM. I don't have an issue with working out dividers, I have to do that on my current AM2 setup. As it has no solid options for that either. 
*
Any specific BIOS to use with that board?*


 I used the last _official_ BIOS. There is a beta one but it my board didn't like it. Some people have had good luck with it, mine just didn't like for some reason, it made the driver do strange things.


----------



## Tator Tot

Well, I'll be running this open bench, and I have quiet a few Spot Cools, & 2 delta 170cfm 120mm fans.

So I think I can get the cooling of the VRM's & RAM fine.

Did you find a specific divider that you liked for 400mhz?


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Why do you say this Blitz? I find unlocked Multi's on the AMD side a God Send.
. . . 
It's little to no tweaking for high overclocks.


And 99 times out of 100, I can get a better performing overclock doing it the long way. More work sure, but it is worth it.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


And 99 times out of 100, I can get a better performing overclock doing it the long way. More work sure, but it is worth it.


I've gotten my best overclocks out of pulling the highest multi I could, then cranking the voltage up and finding the highest HT clock I can get.

I can actually do 3570mhz on my 7750BE with 210x17.

Though, it's not stable, makes a good suicide run. Initially, I can't boot at 17.5 x 200 or 18 x 200

But no matter what, I have to raise my multi to have a stable 3.4ghz, HT clock just won't do it.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Well, I'll be running this open bench, and I have quiet a few Spot Cools, & 2 delta 170cfm 120mm fans.

So I think I can get the cooling of the VRM's & RAM fine.

Did you find a specific divider that you liked for 400mhz?


 I honestly can't recall. I sold the board and the 165 to phantommaggot a while back. IIRC though, I had the reference clock fairly high as the 165 only has a 9x multi. (which I had set to like 7 or 8) so the ram divider was set pretty low. But I didnt find any one setting more or less stable than any other. The only thing I did notice is that my particular board had screwy vcore issues. It would never stay (relatively) constant no matter what I did. That made it harder to OC than anything else. Even the 8phase PWM didn't really do much.


----------



## Tator Tot

Hmm...Alright, thanks for the heads up on the voltage issue, I'm gonna look around for any mods, or anything that I can do to it to give it better voltage regulation.


----------



## BlackOmega

Good luck tator








I gotta run and go get my tool box, I'll be back later.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Good luck tator








I gotta run and go get my tool box, I'll be back later.


Well I got a day or so before the board shows up, so take your time.









THEN THE ONSLAUGHT OF TRIVIA SHALL BEGIN!!!!!
















and thanks again for the help. The pudding will come once I get the board, but it's always good to know about the firefight you are going into.


----------



## Kryton

@ BlackOmega:
Haven't found anything yet on doing the SLI mod to a DFI but I'll keep looking around if you want me to.

TaterTot, that's a great deal you've got going on with the 185. I also run A8N32's (Got two of them here I bought new) and the board as stated will work nicely with the chip plus I can vouch for it's stepping considering all three of my Opterons are LCB9E chips.

Haven't ran my A8N's since when I got the DFI Expert back in January so trying to remember things will require digging one out and firing it back up again. I do know all three of my Opty's ran well on aircooling with them.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
TaterTot, that's a great deal you've got going on with the 185. I also run A8N32's (Got two of them here I bought new) and the board as stated will work nicely with the chip plus I can vouch for it's stepping considering all three of my Opterons are LCB9E chips.

Haven't ran my A8N's since when I got the DFI Expert back in January so trying to remember things will require digging one out and firing it back up again. I do know all three of my Opty's ran well on aircooling with them.

Thanks man, if you can dig out any old info I'll be much obliged.

Side Note: I just realized, but most Skt 939 members should put "More Pins than AM3" as their rig titles.

As it is true, and it just seems funny to me that AMD made that roll back, even though everything else is higher.

Either way, gotta thank all the Skt 939 members in this thread that actively post, I've gotten some nice gifts, and great advice from all of you.

I'll actually be gone for a few days, but expect more questions once I get the new Opty & Asus running. Once I hit a brick wall, this thread is my first stop, have a good weekend fellas!


----------



## froggy1986

UPDATE: As promised I am here to let ya guys all know whats going on with my setup... Sadly after all failed attempts at fixing it, trying everything you guys suggested, it still wasnt working. I got ahold of pio finally and he came over with some spare parts to try and find the culprit. We tried several diferant things and finally, we tried all my parts in a dif mobo and sure enough it started right up.. SO my mobo has died. Pio took a closer look and noticed that the NB cooler and attached peices weren't connected to the mobo properly... they seem to have come lose he thinks due to the heat. So I am passing the working parts back to him and buying new ones for myself.
Man thats a nice change for once, I'm getting the new parts and hes stuck with the hand me downs lol... Thanks again for all your help guys, it was much appreciated


----------



## Hueristic

Glad to hear you got it all sorted Froggy!







And new parts to boot!
Yeah it sounded like a heat issue from the beginning.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
@ BlackOmega:
Haven't found anything yet on doing the SLI mod to a DFI but I'll keep looking around if you want me to.

IF you could find anything about it I'd be very appreciative.

As for the board, I haven't done any tests on it since last night. After my boys go to bed I am planning on inserting my 6800's to see if that makes a difference. If all else fails, I'll pull the board out of my sig rig and see if I have any luck on that one.
Thanks again for looking


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


IF you could find anything about it I'd be very appreciative.

As for the board, I haven't done any tests on it since last night. After my boys go to bed I am planning on inserting my 6800's to see if that makes a difference. If all else fails, I'll pull the board out of my sig rig and see if I have any luck on that one. 
Thanks again for looking










I'll ask someone I know if they have any ideas about that.

TaterTot, one thing I can tell you already is make sure the MOSFETS located at the top of the board stay cool. They have their own heatsink sitting on them and it's possible for one or more to overheat and go bad if they get too hot. 
I removed the heatsink from one of my boards and redid the TIM with AS5 and it did help but if running a WC'ed setup, I'd definitely get a block for them. If these get hot, you'll definitely see stability go straight into the toilet.

Here's something I can tell you already;
These boards came with a small fan that's used when watercooling them and you'll need it if you go with that kind of cooling but it's said not to use it for aircooling alone since it will cause problems if you do. That's what Asus stated in their manual and I haven't used the fan since I've only ran these on air. As to the chipset heatpipes, I've never tried to place a fan where the fins are at the very top of these and even heard it would cause problems if you did. Never tried that to find out and I've had no problems as is. 
The latest BIOS version, I believe it's version 1004 is what you'd need but the earlier one 1003 wasn't bad either but I also noticed differences in the BIOS menu with each version. Can't recall the exact specifics but it wasn't anything to worry about.

As long as you have good airflow in your case, the board will be fine and temps in my case were always good. Easy to setup and use, no real quirks to mention, didn't have to do alot to make it run fast and so far, they've survived everything I've thrown at them. I think you'll like it once you get to know the board.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Re: A8N32-SLI Deluxe latest BIOSes: I've been running v.1405 for well over a year with no problems whatsoever. Some (pio amongst them) have reported some goofy behavior if you pair this BIOS with Vista (if I recall correctly, pio runs Vista Ultimate 64-bit), but since I haven't got any Vista installations I cannot verify this myself.

Good luck.


----------



## Kryton

Knew it was version 1xxx or something - It's been a long time since I've seen the BIOS screen with one of those.









When I tried the Vista Beta with it earlier, I had driver problems like everyone else but nothing I could pin on the BIOS itself causing problems.

If for some reason you don't get the driver CD for it, let me know and I'll set you up with what you need, no problem.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

To be honest, I'm with you regarding not seeing any relationship between BIOS version and OS incompatibility. I'd first suspect an incorrect or improper BIOS setting (could be anything: USB-related setting, SATA/IDE mode, Sleep state setting, etc.) before pointing a cyber finger at the BIOS itself.









Of course, easy for me to say, since I'm only reporting on the situation, and didn't actually experience it myself.


----------



## Hueristic

Lets see DFI SLI MOD.

Let me count the ways.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Lets see DFI SLI MOD.

Let me count the ways.




















Well played, Hue.


----------



## Kryton

Had to +1 his rep for that and it was well deserved.


----------



## BlackOmega

Damn you guys :swearing: ...









I actually did the no.2 pencil trick last night







and we have contact







but that doesn't matter because the card is STILL not seen in windowzzzzzzzzz


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Lets see DFI SLI MOD.

Let me count the ways.










 I got a good chuckle out of it, then started to wonder how you did that. Next I started thinking I hope that is not some kind of virus trick. I know my thoughts are something to







your eyes at some times...


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I was thinking that the cards in tandem might be drawing too much power.

































Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I got a good chuckle out of it, then started to wonder how you did that. Next I started thinking I hope that is not some kind of *virus trick*. I know my thoughts are something to
 






your eyes at some times...




















































































































:baaasm ile


----------



## BlackOmega

Well Hue, my thought about the cards drawing too much juice wasn't it. I put my 6800's in and still nada. I think I might have to try putting em on my other board and seeing what happens.

But get this, from testing last night I left both the cards in and left it to fold. When I got back today I checked temps and saw that the top card was sitting @ 80*C







. So I took the lower card out and the temps haven't gone above 55*C. Hmm.... maybe I should look for a new board anyway. The lack of airflow will probably kill the card.


----------



## GuardianOdin

badda bing! What a difference that 8600GT makes as a PhysX card. I immediately saw a difference in performance in City of Heroes. The game is not over taxing to begin with, but the added card upped the performance quite a bit. There are a number of things in game I hadn't noticed before and the general FX are much clearer....and my FPS on the Devil May Cry 4 bench went up at higher settings.

I also gained a few points in 3DMark 06. Stock settings before at 2.9Ghz with the 8800GT stock was around 10,500 give or take 100. I ran a loop of 3 and averaged 10,900 with the Opty at 2.9Ghz and the 8800GT stock+ the added 8600GT stock.

It's not a huge performance difference, but enough to notice and nan add bonus for a card that was close to collecting dust.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

G.O., how does one detect PhysX at work? Or is this one of those things that depends on the game?

Good to hear about your successes, though.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


G.O., how does one detect PhysX at work? Or is this one of those things that depends on the game?

Good to hear about your successes, though.











From what I have read, it depends on the game. So far I'm not so sure about that. Everything I have ran while testing has shown improvements. All my games run better/smoother, movies seem a bit clearer and there seems to be less stress on the CPU.

I'm not an expert at this, just going by experience.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


G.O., how does one detect PhysX at work? Or is this one of those things that depends on the game?

Good to hear about your successes, though.










You enable it in game, then set your extra card, not in SLi, to do PhsyX in the Nvidia Control Pannel.

Then watch your FPS stay as high as they were before, or almost as high.

An Ageia PPU (PhysX Processing Unit) is about equal to a 9600GSO 512mb (G94 version) running PhysX only.

Or a 9600GT.

The 8600GT performs a bit lower than the Ageia PPU.


----------



## BlackOmega

Hey fellaz I was wondering if any of you gents had an SLI board laying around that you might want to part with. I would prefer a board that has a 2 slot gap between the PCIe slots. But if it doesn't thats ok too. I'll devise a way to get better airflow to it







. Let me know, thanks guys.









BTW, this is for a dedicated folding rig for OCN


----------



## txtmstrjoe

No shortage of knowledge in this here thread.









TYVM, TT and G.O.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


No shortage of knowledge in this here thread.









TYVM, TT and G.O.










no problem Joe. oh and check your facebook. You should have gotten a request from me.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hey fellaz I was wondering if any of you gents had an SLI board laying around that you might want to part with. I would prefer a board that has a 2 slot gap between the PCIe slots. But if it doesn't thats ok too. I'll devise a way to get better airflow to it







. Let me know, thanks guys.









BTW, this is for a dedicated folding rig for OCN










I wish I did buddy. Check the for sale section. I believe I seen some 939 mobo's for sale.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Re: A8N32-SLI Deluxe latest BIOSes: I've been running v.1405 for well over a year with no problems whatsoever. Some (pio amongst them) have reported some goofy behavior if you pair this BIOS with Vista


If I remember right, with that BIOS and Vista SP1, you cannot exceed 3.0 GHz stable. Retail Vista or an older BIOS permits in excess of 3.1 GHz stable.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


If I remember right, with that BIOS and Vista SP1, you cannot exceed 3.0 GHz stable. Retail Vista or an older BIOS permits in excess of 3.1 GHz stable.


The question is why this is.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


If I remember right, with that BIOS and Vista SP1, you cannot exceed 3.0 GHz stable. Retail Vista or an older BIOS permits in excess of 3.1 GHz stable.


Blitz, I think it's just coincidence that this particular problem occurs with a certain bios and Vista. Blame it on the operating system. I mean...we are stress testing in the OS correct? If it doesn't happen in XP then it's pretty clear what the problem is









Thanks for posting up your power supply results. Idle and S&M results are pretty decent. Anyone with a 650W or so power supply could get away with that.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


And 99 times out of 100, I can get a better performing overclock doing it the long way. More work sure, but it is worth it.


You need to go in some of these Black Edition clubs and say that. I like the fact that an unlocked multiplier requires the user to not have to use so much of the chipset (ie. less chipset voltage and HTT). You can always leave the multiplier at a certain setting and then raise the HTT to refine everything later on.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *froggy1986*


So I am passing the working parts back to him and buying new ones for myself.
Man thats a nice change for once, I'm getting the new parts and hes stuck with the hand me downs lol... Thanks again for all your help guys, it was much appreciated










Froggy, good to hear. We'll have to thank Pio next time we see him









GO and Tator, interesting info on the PhysX...thanks!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Regarding power supplies, system power demands, and other related issues: Correct me if I'm wrong, guys, but I seem to remember reading over at Jonny Guru's site in several of the reviews there that the PSU's efficiency goes DOWN the further away actual used watts are from the peak output. In other words, if this is true, this is a persuasive argument against going far too much overkill on PSUs.

Another comment on PSUs: It's pretty much a debunked myth that single rail 12V PSUs are inherently superior to multiple 12V rail designs. The reason is that, in modern iterations of a multi-rail PSU, the 12V rails are more "virtual" than physical or actual; the PSU governs rail output distribution internally, while physically having a single 12V rail. Kind of like a single pie being cut into pieces: No matter how many slices you make, or how big the slices are, it's all still one whole pie you start with and and with. A well-designed distribution scheme and execution is no more or no less advantageous than a single massive 12V rail.

A gross simplification, for sure, but I think it still gets the point across.


----------



## Blitz6804

Right Thlnk3r, Pioneer's testing showed that Vista SP1 did not like that BIOS. I do not know if he tested SP2 yet. My experience with having an unlocked multiplier was mixed. It was nice to be able to make one change and get a faster system. On the other hand, I found that if I manually bumped the HTT up with the RAM on a divider, I got better performance clock-for-clock. If I remember right, my CPU was 2 MHz slower, my RAM was 5 MHz slower, and yet, I did 1-5% better depending on the benchmark than using solely the multiplier.

Joe: I have heard that too. Peak efficiency of a power supply occurs between 50-85% load if I remember right. Less than 50% or greater than 85% and you start to be wasting power. The power supply needed to be upgraded however since it was not likely capable of handling two video cards, a fact I just recently proved.

My biggest worry is my UPS; it says it can provide up to 865 W. I am starting to worry that it will not be able to handle my tower full-tilt. It is obvious I need to rewire behind my desk to make only the PC tower and monitor be on the UPS (right now, my entire wall is) to reduce load. Even with that, it is going to be close.

Does anyone know a good UPS manufacturer other than American Power Conversion? I looked through their wares thoroughly, and it looks like they cannot help me anymore. I have the biggest personal unit (1500 VA @ 865 W) and the smallest server unit that can get the job done (Smart-UPS RT 1500 XL; 1500 VA @ 1050 W) is upwards of $800.


----------



## BlackOmega

joe from what I gather about the multiple +12v rails is that their max output (amps) per rail is governed to reduce the risk of fire hazards.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Right Thlnk3r, Pioneer's testing showed that Vista SP1 did not like that BIOS.

Blitz, one can't be certain it's the BIOS. For all we know it could be Vista's fault. Just because Vista SP1 works flawlessly with a previous bios version and not with a the new one doesn't mean it's necessarily the bios's fault.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
My biggest worry is my UPS; it says it can provide up to 865 W. I am starting to worry that it will not be able to handle my tower full-tilt. It is obvious I need to rewire behind my desk to make only the PC tower and monitor be on the UPS (right now, my entire wall is) to reduce load. Even with that, it is going to be close.

Blitz, I think your fine with your 1500VA unit. If you go over 865W you'll still have enough battery time to shut off your computer. If you're so concerned about "battery backup" then just keep your PC and Monitor on it. Take everything else off the battery backup portion. Pick up a smaller unit for the rest of your stuff. Line conditioning is what you're wanting right?

Good luck


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
joe from what I gather about the multiple +12v rails is that their max output (amps) per rail is governed to reduce the risk of fire hazards.

BlackOmega, here's a whole article about it. Good stuff: http://www.jonnyguru.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3990.

Hey are you ready for those questions I was talking about last week


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, here's a whole article about it. Good stuff: http://www.jonnyguru.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3990.

*Hey are you ready for those questions I was talking about last week*









Anytime


----------



## Blitz6804

I want it partially for line conditioning (there have been a few times where voltage from the outlet has exceeded 134 V) and partially for enough runtime to safely shut down. Once you exceed about 750 W, the software tells you to remove equipment from the unit. My thought is that if I get near/over 865, when the power goes out, so too will the battery.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


My thought is that if I get near/over 865, when the power goes out, so too will the battery.


Blitz, that just means your battery runtime becomes lower. APC just advertises off that number. You have two ports for just "surge only". Use those for items that do not require to be on a battery. Also if the power were to go out you can always unplug everything else except your machine and monitor. I don't think you have anything to worry about









Good luck

EDIT:

Typical Backup Time
at Full Load - 4.2 minutes (865 Watts)

I'm sure you can save your important word documents and shutdown rig in less than a minute.


----------



## Blitz6804

What is strange is why is the server 1500 VA unit good to 1050 W, but the personal 1500 VA unit is only good to 865 W?


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Damn you guys :swearing: ...









I actually did the no.2 pencil trick last night







and we have contact







but that doesn't matter because the card is STILL not seen in windowzzzzzzzzz










Omega, I've experienced this before with my cards. 
Sometimes Windows will see the second card, sometimes not. The only real way I've found that seems to work for getting Windows to pick up the second card is to do a driver reinstall with both cards already in and linked. Even that doesn't seem to work occasionally but at least in my case it will sometimes - Or shall I say it used to since one of my 8600's is dead now.









Really need to find another one or at least a 7600GS to use with the one I have here.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Omega, I've experienced this before with my cards.
Sometimes Windows will see the second card, sometimes not. The only real way I've found that seems to work for getting Windows to pick up the second card is to do a driver reinstall with both cards already in and linked. Even that doesn't seem to work occasionally but at least in my case it will sometimes - Or shall I say it used to since one of my 8600's is dead now.









Really need to find another one or at least a 7600GS to use with the one I have here.

Yeah I think I'm actually going to break down and solder it. While the no2 pencil in theory should work, it doesn't because it has resistance. So I'm assuming that its not getting the full voltage that it needs to enable SLI. I've done some digging and found a couple of people that said they tried the pencil mod and it didn't work.
Another thing I found was that once the mod is complete, it will register as NF4 sli and not ultra. So drivers won't matter.








But just in case, I'll reinstall them again.


----------



## sillykid

Should I part out and ebay my socket 939 system since i'm not using anymore?


----------



## BlackOmega

Sillykid, what do you have? I'm actually looking for a board. Possibly more depending on price and what you have.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
What is strange is why is the server 1500 VA unit good to 1050 W, but the personal 1500 VA unit is only good to 865 W?

Blitz, I'm guessing a larger battery? Not entirely sure. Sounds like a question for APC sales









Quote:


Originally Posted by *sillykid* 
Should I part out and ebay my socket 939 system since i'm not using anymore?

Sillykid, that's completely up to you. I'd say go for it if you're in need of money. On Ebay you would probably be able to get away with charging more on the parts then on OCN.

Good luck


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Yeah I think I'm actually going to break down and solder it. While the no2 pencil in theory should work, it doesn't because it has resistance. So I'm assuming that its not getting the full voltage that it needs to enable SLI. I've done some digging and found a couple of people that said they tried the pencil mod and it didn't work.
Another thing I found was that once the mod is complete, it will register as NF4 sli and not ultra. So drivers won't matter.








But just in case, I'll reinstall them again.


Soldering will probrably do it but if Windows still has problems detecting the second card afterwards, that's probrably what will need to be done to make it work.

You're right about drivers not making a difference when it shows up as a different board. 
Maybe using some really thin wire with hot glue would be less risky to the chipset than soldering unless you're really good at soldering. Best thing about that is you can undo the mod easily if things still don't work or problems come of it.

Just a thought.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Soldering will probrably do it but if Windows still has problems detecting the second card afterwards, that's probrably what will need to be done to make it work.

You're right about drivers not making a difference when it shows up as a different board. 
Maybe using some really thin wire with hot glue would be less risky to the chipset than soldering unless you're really good at soldering. Best thing about that is you can undo the mod easily if things still don't work or problems come of it.

Just a thought.


 Well I also have that conductive adhesive used for repairing rear window defoggers. Maybe I'll give that a try first. 
I'm not bad at soldering, I also have a real steady hand so I'm sure I could pull it off.


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, the easiest way to see if it worked is to check what chipset Windows says you have. If it shows nForce 4 SLI, then it worked. If it shows nForce 4 Ultra, then it did not. The adhesive for a window defogger may be overkill, just buy a cheap trace pen, it should be a little easier to work with. In any event, it is a good idea to tape off all but the two pins you need to short to prevent an accidental short elsewhere.

As to the driver, I do not think Kryton means the nForce driver, I believe he means the GeForce driver. Completely uninstall both video cards, and then reinstall the driver. Do this by removing from control panel, restarting, deleting from device manager, restarting, rebooting to safe mode, running DriverCleaner and/or DriverSweeper, CCleaner, defragging, rebooting to normal mode, and installing anew.

(By the way, my regular maintenance includes once a month or so going into safe mode, running McAfee (it runs weekly in regular mode), Spybot S&D, CCleaner, and then defragging 3-15 times. I have never lost a PC to bad drivers or a virus.)


----------



## GuardianOdin

.......bah

So I'm back needing a dual core 939 CPU. If anyone has one, let me know. It does not need to be awesome of awesome 939'ers, just two cores. Let me know and we'll figure out a price and such.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


.......bah

So I'm back needing a dual core 939 CPU. If anyone has one, let me know. It does not need to be awesome of awesome 939'ers, just two cores. Let me know and we'll figure out a price and such.


Guardian, check your PM's


----------



## Hueristic

Been real busy and can't comment on alot of whats going on (got them multiquoted for later), but BO Before you do anything I would go into device manager and remove your PCI bus Driver. That will force your system to redetect ALL devices. Hopefully that is the issue as iot looks like both bus connectors are working if the cards work in either but not both. ALSO I forget but make sure those slots are completely free of contamination.


----------



## BlackOmega

I'll give that a shot thanks for the input Blitz and Hue.









But even after all of this I'm not sure if I want use the board as a folder. THe way the cooler is designed on these Asus GSO's (orb style), if the cards are that close together the top card runs @ ~80*C, and thats on a cool day. That is too high for my liking. But with adequate airflow they run considerably cooler ~59*C folding in a 27*C room.
I've found an SLI ECS board on ebay for $52 (OEM new). I've been contemplating getting that. As there is a 2 slot gap between the PCIe slots. I'm still going to mod on of my Ultra-D's though, just to see if it works







. But then again I'm not sure if I want to spend any more money on 939 stuff (pains me to say that). I want to go AM3 later this year so I'm trying to save my pennies for that.


----------



## nategr8ns

Speaking of upgrading...
We need a new computer for a new house we'll be staying at this summer. I was thinking either a "high-end" ITX desktop or a netbook, but my dad wants something from a reputable company (HP, Dell, etc) for easy replacements if anything goes wrong.

I like the idea of a mITX or netbook because we are also buying a car out there and I will be driving it home to use as my first car. Small computers will be easier to bring back home (we'll be driving back out next year unless we buy yet another car, which is unlikely, but not impossible).

I'm going to be searching OCN and then making a thread with a bunch of laptops I found off of Costco's website soon. If you guys have any ideas, you're welcome to tell me







. BTW, I'm not opposed to Intel, in fact if we go ITX I want Atom, but I have had awful troubles with my dad's P4 setup (although I just found out that the cooler on his GPU was loose, so that may be the culprit







)


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Speaking of upgrading...
We need a new computer for a new house we'll be staying at this summer. I was thinking either a "high-end" ITX desktop or a netbook, but my dad wants something from a reputable company (HP, Dell, etc) for easy replacements if anything goes wrong.

I like the idea of a mITX or netbook because we are also buying a car out there and I will be driving it home to use as my first car. Small computers will be easier to bring back home (we'll be driving back out next year unless we buy yet another car, which is unlikely, but not impossible).

I'm going to be searching OCN and then making a thread with a bunch of laptops I found off of Costco's website soon. If you guys have any ideas, you're welcome to tell me







. BTW, I'm not opposed to Intel, in fact if we go ITX I want Atom, but I have had awful troubles with my dad's P4 setup (although I just found out that the cooler on his GPU was loose, so that may be the culprit







)


 Hey Nate check out this Acer Aspire one netbook. Its a refurb but its a nice unit. I actually just got 1 for school. Other than its missing an optical drive its just like a real laptop.Has about a 3 hour battery, wireless, camera, built in mic, card reader, 3 USB ports, VGA out, 120GB HDD (the one I have has 160GB that I'll probably never even get close to filling up).
All in all a pretty good unit if you're not trying to game.


----------



## nategr8ns

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=120432178418
under $20!!!!
sold AS-IS though, and I really shouldn't be buying stuff anyway







.

5 minutes left! (sorry for the short notice







)

edit: I can't believe it sold for $5 (+s/h). I guess people don't want to take the risk of AS-IS stuff.
Thanks for the link BO, but for a netbook, 2.5 hours of battery seems really low. Don't the EEEs get more like 8 hours?

edit again: the cheapest EEE on Tiger is $350, so I guess 2.5 hours of battery life isn't $140 bad







.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=120432178418
under $20!!!!
sold AS-IS though, and I really shouldn't be buying stuff anyway







.

5 minutes left! (sorry for the short notice







)


 Saw that yesterday when I was perusing through the boards in my search for a cheap SLI board.

It looks ok, but that doesn't mean anything.


----------



## nategr8ns

True.
What do you think of this EEE 900? 512mb of RAM and a 4GB SSD, which a 1gb stick and a 16gb SD card would fix, and again 2.5 hours of battery life. How fast will that "Intel Mobile CPU" be compared to an Atom? I'm assuming its not an Atom because of power usage (2.5 hours vs 5 hours on the same battery for it verse an atom-based).

Also, when are Atom N330 laptops supposed to be available? That's a good reason to go ITX (dual core atoms already).

What kind of resolution do the Intel graphics support? 1080p would make it a netbook great, cheap HTPC.

edit: I'm sorry, this should all be going in a new thread







.

edit again: I know it wouldn't be nearly as fast as real RAM, but would it be possible to use an SD card as "virtual" memory? That $170 EEE would make a great school laptop if I could get more RAM for photoshop.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
True.
What do you think of this EEE 900? 512mb of RAM and a 4GB SSD, which a 1gb stick and a 16gb SD card would fix, and again 2.5 hours of battery life. How fast will that "Intel Mobile CPU" be compared to an Atom? I'm assuming its not an Atom because of power usage (2.5 hours vs 5 hours on the same battery for it verse an atom-based).

Also, when are Atom N330 laptops supposed to be available? That's a good reason to go ITX (dual core atoms already).

What kind of resolution do the Intel graphics support? 1080p would make it a netbook great, cheap HTPC.

edit: I'm sorry, this should all be going in a new thread







.

edit again: I know it wouldn't be nearly as fast as real RAM, but would it be possible to use an SD card as "virtual" memory? That $170 EEE would make a great school laptop if I could get more RAM for photoshop.

I think for the price the Acer is better. Same size screen, has an Atom (1core 2 threads), huge HDD in comparison, windows XP, double the RAM, etc.

I honestly don't know how well that mobile CPU does, if its slower than the atom, trust me you DON'T want it. This atom is fairly slow, it reminds me of using an old pentium 3. But for what I use it for, taking notes and sometimes browsing the net, it does great. Comes with macafee antivirus, and some other stuff. The only thing I don't really like about it is the 8.9" screen. A 10" would've been better but at the price I wasn't complaining. I went to bestbuy and checked out some Asus eepc's with the same specs, they cost on average $150 more than the Acer.
Aside from that 4 GB HDD? Sure its SSD but 4GB? You wouldn't be able to save anything really.
I'd say keep looking.


----------



## nategr8ns

Yeah, I talked with my dad and it seems he is in agreement with me that in addition to web browsing and word processing, HD-output is an almost-must. We will end up using the computer as a media center for Video (DVD but almost definitely *not* Bluray), internet video streaming, online netflix for some stuff, music, pictures. Preferably 1080P, but if we find a good deal on something with only 720P it probably won't stop us.
Can HDTVs handle any other resolutions other than 1080, 720, and SD (480?)? We still need to buy one of those too, although my uncle owns a high-end pawn shop so that won't be too hard







.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
Yeah, I talked with my dad and it seems he is in agreement with me that in addition to web browsing and word processing, HD-output is an almost-must. We will end up using the computer as a media center for Video (DVD but almost definitely *not* Bluray), internet video streaming, online netflix for some stuff, music, pictures. Preferably 1080P, but if we find a good deal on something with only 720P it probably won't stop us.
Can HDTVs handle any other resolutions other than 1080, 720, and SD (480?)? We still need to buy one of those too, although my uncle owns a high-end pawn shop so that won't be too hard







.

I think you need a real laptop. I don't think a netbook will cut it. Check out this Compaq presario.


----------



## nategr8ns

Well that doesn't have HDMI or DVI out, so I'm not sure that it can output HD. I thought S-Video couldn't handle it...


----------



## Blitz6804

S-video is 480i. To do greater than s-video, you need component or VGA (up to 1080p/WUXGA analog) or DVI/HDMI (up to 1080p/WUXGA digital for single link, 1440p/WQXGA digital for dual link).


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


We will end up using the computer as a media center for Video (DVD but almost definitely *not *Bluray), internet video streaming, online netflix for some stuff, music, pictures. Preferably 1080P, but if we find a good deal on something with only 720P it probably won't stop us.
Can HDTVs handle any other resolutions other than 1080, 720, and SD (480?)?


Nate, I don't think anything out there is higher then 1080p. The highest the TV broadcasters can go is 1080i....maybe if you're lucky one might eventually go to 1080p. What TV are you hooking this "media center" box to?

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

thlnk3r: 1080p (1920x1080) is as high as you can go with a TV on HDMI 1.2. This is the same exact cable (with a different pinout) as a single-link DVI cable. The technology tops out at WUXGA, or 1920x1200. HDMI 1.3 so far can go as high as 1440p (2560x1440). In the PC side of the spectrum, that is, dual-link DVI, you are good to WQXGA, or 2560x1600. I believe WSXGA is also dual-link DVI, that is, 2560x2048. I know of no higher resolutions at present.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
thlnk3r: 1080p (1920x1080) is as high as you can go with a TV on HDMI 1.2. This is the same exact cable (with a different pinout) as a single-link DVI cable. The technology tops out at WUXGA, or 1920x1200. HDMI 1.3 so far can go as high as 1440p (2560x1440). In the PC side of the spectrum, that is, dual-link DVI, you are good to WQXGA, or 2560x1600. I believe WSXGA is also dual-link DVI, that is, 2560x2048. I know of no higher resolutions at present.

Blitz, sorry buddy but I'm not sure why you're informing me of all of this









Are we talking about Nate's question? Yeah as far as I know nothing out there is larger then 1080p...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


thlnk3r: 1080p (1920x1080) is as high as you can go with a TV on HDMI 1.2. This is the same exact cable (with a different pinout) as a single-link DVI cable. The technology tops out at WUXGA, or 1920x1200. HDMI 1.3 so far can go as high as 1440p (2560x1440). In the PC side of the spectrum, that is, dual-link DVI, you are good to WQXGA, or 2560x1600. I believe WSXGA is also dual-link DVI, that is, 2560x2048. I know of no higher resolutions at present.


Holy echo chamber, Batman!

Kinda reminds me of what thlnk3r wrote just before this post, more or less.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


*Nate, I don't think anything out there is higher then 1080p*. The highest the TV broadcasters can go is 1080i....maybe if you're lucky one might eventually go to 1080p. What TV are you hooking this "media center" box to?

Good luck


I guess that's what happens when you don't leave the house enough.


----------



## Blitz6804

The reason I typed that all is that there is in fact a 1440p TV. Samsung if I remember right. I think they also make a 1080p 120 Hz, which is presently used soley by the NFL for replays.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
The reason I typed that all is that there is in fact a 1440p TV. Samsung if I remember right. I think they also make a 1080p 120 Hz, which is presently used soley by the NFL for replays.

Your point being..? You didn't mention this tidbit of information in your post just before this one.

Moreover, I fail to see the relevance to S939 matters whatsoever.

Sorry for the bluntness, but (again, to be blunt) it's fine and dandy that you know all these things; however, sometimes it's just not good form to one-up people with examples that are clearly exceptions to what is true for the vast majority of the market segment, just to show what you know.

Especially when it has nothing to do with our Club's topic or main focus of interest.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


The reason I typed that all is that there is in fact a 1440p TV. Samsung if I remember right. I think they also make a 1080p 120 Hz, which is presently used soley by the NFL for replays.


Blitz, no worries man. Is the 1440p even retail though? I don't think I've seen one yet. There are 1080p 120Hz screens pretty much every where you go. I was just at Costco the other day and they had quite a few on display. Pretty nice screens! But yeah about your previous post, you should of just said that instead of going into all that detail...some confusion there.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah Thlnk3r, it is strange. No one sells a 1440p TV yet, but people sell scalers, switchers, cables, processors, et cetera that support it. I guess the demand just is not there yet? I know DirecTV recently started broadcasting some channels in 1080p. We do not use them though, because to turn on 1080p, you have to turn off the auto scaler, which makes all channels scale to 1080i. While I do like how my PC looks on that TV (73" 1080p is nice) it does not look substantially better than my monitor due to the increased distance.


----------



## nategr8ns

We don't have a TV yet, but that was something I was going to leave out of this thread







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Man I feel like I got jipped by a out of business retailer when I got my 40" samsung 1080P. I say this because it only has a 60 Hertz rating at 1920 x 1080 resolution. Does the 120 Hertz mean that the TV will be better for games and faster moving objects? I should have done more research before pulling the trigger on the TV.









EDIT:

I have to admit, it sure if fun Playing COD4 on the big Screen


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz, I'm guessing a larger battery? Not entirely sure. Sounds like a question for APC sales









I have done so at your suggestion:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *APC*
The largest Back-UPS units we manufacture are the 1500 VA Back-UPS RS and Back-UPS XS model lines. The Smart-UPS model line has a higher power factor than the Back-UPS which is why the 1500 VA Smart-UPS UPS unit has a higher wattage rating. For larger than 1500 VA, you would have to go to our Smart-UPS model line.

Now we know. I reiterate my plea for people to suggest other UPS manufacturers other than APC, because even with Trade-UPS, I am looking at around $800 for a new UPS, which is a bit excessive in my opinion.

N2Gaming: A 1080p 60 is perfectly fine. A 120 Hz TV is a fuzz overkill, can your graphics card drive 120 FPS? Can your eyeball distinguish between 120 and 60 FPS? Is it worth the price premium?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
N2Gaming: A 1080p 60 is perfectly fine. A 120 Hz TV is a fuzz overkill, can your graphics card drive 120 FPS? Can your eyeball distinguish between 120 and 60 FPS? Is it worth the price premium?

Thanks blitz and to be quiet honest I don't know if I can tell the diff between 60 & 120. Heck I don't even know how to turn on the screen FPS lol. BO helped me out one night w/that on my M2N32 sli deluxe system. In all honesty the res looks good but I do get lines through the TV once in a while like on the old school tv's that would roll the piture w/lines from top to bottom. Now I want to go play it for a bit just to verify what I just said about the lines.


----------



## Blitz6804

Try turning on VSync. I get that in many games when VSync is off and my framerate is substantially higher than the 60 Hz my monitor is rated for. Vsync instructs the computer to disregard any FPS generated over 60, thereby giving a smoother picture without tearing; in theory anyway.


----------



## N2Gaming

I'll try that, thank you blitz.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I have done so at your suggestion:Now we know. I reiterate my plea for people to suggest other UPS manufacturers other than APC, because even with Trade-UPS, I am looking at around $800 for a new UPS, which is a bit excessive in my opinion.

Blitz, to be honest I think your 1500VA is a bit excessive already. There is really no need to upgrade to a larger unit. You really don't have to "overload" it with all the accessories. The most important items should be your PC and Monitor. Do you really need battery backup for everything else









For anyone here whom is interested, here is some info on "power factor".

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Can your eyeball distinguish between 120 and 60 FPS? Is it worth the price premium?

I don't know man, I can pretty much tell the difference. I watched Transformers (blue-ray) on a 120Hz screen and it was beautiful. Maybe because it was filmed in a digital format? Who knows...but I can certainly say I can tell a difference (60Hz vs 120Hz).

Good luck


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


I don't know man, I can pretty much tell the difference. I watched Transformers (blue-ray) on a 120Hz screen and it was beautiful. Maybe because it was filmed in a digital format? Who knows...but I can certainly say I can tell a difference (60Hz vs 120Hz).


To be honest Thinker, I think that is because of the way it was shot, and not the refresh rate of the panel because, as far as I understand it, 120hz is just "digital trickery," with no real "substance" to the added frames. There is usually some sort of image processor that extrapolates frames and inserts additional "synthetic" frames where needed to make "120hz." 
But their is no true "120hz" panel out their to my knowledge.

I know from experience. I have a 120hz 40" Sony Bravia HDTV, and for some films, they look better than my buds Samsung 60hz 40", both panels have similar specs (his is supposed to have a higher dynamic contrast ratio by 500, but we can't tell the difference." 
And either or TV, both playing the same movie, from a PS3 looks the same. We did a side by side test at our previous LAN because we were curious about the "on paper" versus "reality" of it all.

The only true difference I got was that his PS3 ran cooler than mine







(Mine was 90nm/110nm his was 65nm/110nm (CPU/GPU))

Though, the "real" difference comes in when you are playing "3D" games, on an nVidia GPU, as they render double the frames and do an overlay, even though my Bravia is not the "nVidia certified" monitor, it works just fine as it has the image processor in it.

You can actually play on a 60hz pannel, but it makes your games run in 30 FPS, which is really hard on most of us gamers (really kills me when watching webcast stuff)

Either way, hope this was somewhat helpful. I'm taking a small break from my new board + CPU (A8N32 & Opty 185.)

Hopefully I'll get some runs going. And once I hit a brick wall...well, this thread here I come.
















fellows!


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, to be honest I think your 1500VA is a bit excessive already. There is really no need to upgrade to a larger unit. You really don't have to "overload" it with all the accessories. The most important items should be your PC and Monitor. Do you really need battery backup for everything else










But with one GPU, I draw upwards of 614 W with just the PC on the UPS. What happens when I add the second GPU? (UPS should be here today with it.)


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


But with one GPU, I draw upwards of 614 W with just the PC on the UPS. What happens when I add the second GPU? (UPS should be here today with it.)


What are you adding to the rig?

But if you have a 1500va, you should be just fine with most of todays GPU's & the 940 BE. 
More so since you never pump serious voltage through your CPU. 
If you are adding a second x2 card, then you'll probably top out around 700watts. 
The x2 is 225watt, & your CPU would be around 140watts most. 
So it's actually 690watts closer. 
But this is all on your 12v rail, which you would never have fully loaded during the time you are on a UPC. 
You'd probably be closer to using 500watts average on the UPC.


----------



## Blitz6804

My experimentation with loads is available in my build thread.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
My experimentation with loads is available in my build thread.

Again, that's a load circumstance.

And even with 2 x2's in one machine, you'd barely load them up in any game. More so because of how horribly CFX actually scales.

So they will mostly sit doing nothing.

More so, a good thing to remember is that most games will not send your GPU up to 100% load, even Crysis. And for that matter, Furmark is notorious for going "beyond the norm." As I'm sure you know, it loads a GPU up more so than any game would.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Blitz, surely you're not on maximum system load at all times. Are you..?

UPSes aren't really more than just power conditioners and a tidy means to shut your system off in the event of a power failure. They're not supposed to be a source of backup power for extended periods.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Try turning on VSync. I get that in many games when VSync is off and my framerate is substantially higher than the 60 Hz my monitor is rated for. Vsync instructs the computer to disregard any FPS generated over 60, thereby giving a smoother picture without tearing; in theory anyway.

I tried it and it works fine now, thank you. Now if only I was any good at the game.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Blitz, surely you're not on maximum system load at all times. Are you..?

UPSes aren't really more than just power conditioners and a tidy means to shut your system off in the event of a power failure. They're not supposed to be a source of backup power for extended periods.


Of course not. However, I would like to be covered in the event of a power failure. If I were in the middle of a game, it may take up to three minutes to shut down. At 800 W (I have been there before) I get about two minutes battery life. If I get it any higher, I expect a near-zero battery life, and at that point, what is the point of keeping the UPS?
Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I tried it and it works fine now, thank you.


Glad to see it worked.


----------



## GuardianOdin

If any of my 939 brothers can help I'd like to play Prototype with the XFX controller I have.....help!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Blitz, I question you'll be using maximum load even during the heaviest gaming session, so I think your estimate of your UPS's capability is pessimistic. S&M and/or Furmark simply load the system far in excess of what actual usage will be; not even [email protected] uses as much raw power as either of those stress testing programs.


----------



## N2Gaming

Blitz, you could always install your second video card in the system, start up a game to get all the amps/volts up there and then unplug the UPS from the wall and go from there. If you can shut down w/out loosing everything then you should be just fine. If your system shuts off right away then you need upgrading. I wont pretend to know what will or will not work for you UPS requirements but testing it out before jumping to conclusions would prolly be the quickest way to test your theories.

Good Luck,

N2G


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


We did a side by side test at our previous LAN because we were curious about the "on paper" versus "reality" of it all.


Tator Tot, thanks for clarifying. Yes I'm always VERY curious on what is "on paper" versus "reality". Perhaps I have fallen to digital trickery







. Really I think I was just blown away by the Transformers movie on blu-ray. I'm guessing since the movie was filmed digitally that is why? It looks amazing man...

Thanks for the helpful post.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Of course not. However, I would like to be covered in the event of a power failure. If I were in the middle of a game, it may take up to three minutes to shut down. At 800 W (I have been there before) I get about two minutes battery life.


Blitz, *save* your money and stick with the 1500VA. I highly doubt you'll be running both video cards at 100%. As others have said most games hardly even run a video card at 100%. Furmark is the exception...isn't it programmed to do that? Shoot TF2 barely taxed my 4850. If I remember right I think it was around 20% according to the Everest OSD screen.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


what is the point of keeping the UPS?


For line conditioning of course.

Go ahead and do a dry run and unplug the UPS from the wall to see what happens. That would be a nice way to test things. Can't you setup the PowerChute software to automatically start a shutdown command in Windows if the battery life is low?

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, it is set to do so. Presently, PowerChute is set to shut down the PC when 5 or less minutes are remaining. It is interesting to note that the 1000 W PSU is apparently more efficient than the 750 W unit. Doing the same thing (poking online with IM clients and WMP open) I have an estimated 25 minutes of run time instead of 19 minutes of run time. I do not think I will ever have a problem shutting down while doing school work, so I think that might more-correctly be my priority.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator Tot, thanks for clarifying. Yes I'm always VERY curious on what is "on paper" versus "reality". Perhaps I have fallen to digital trickery







. Really I think I was just blown away by the Transformers movie on blu-ray. I'm guessing since the movie was filmed digitally that is why? It looks amazing man...

Thanks for the helpful post.


Trust me, it's just Transformers in Blu Ray.

I have the BR version, and it's dead sexy. Even though I hated the movie, it does look good.

And yes, I did buy it just because it said Transformers.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


I have the BR version, and it's dead sexy. Even though I hated the movie, it does look good.


Tator, way OT here but man how did you not like the movie? I thought it was awesome. The music composed by "Steve Jablonsky" was also great. Well I guess everyone has different tastes for movies


----------



## nategr8ns

Quick question: What's a good stress test that will stress my GPU without stressing CPU and vice-versa? I'm troubleshooting my dads P4 rig again.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Quick question: What's a good stress test that will stress my GPU without stressing CPU and vice-versa? I'm troubleshooting my dads P4 rig again.


Nategr8ns, for your CPU just go with the same stress testing applications we ran here (OCCT, Orthos, S&M, Prime ect). For your video card, try out Furmark or ATITool. In ATITool there is a function called, "3DView". That works quite well for warming up the video card. I think ATITool slightly stresses the processor but not as much as OCCT/Orthos ect.

Good luck


----------



## nategr8ns

thanks thinker.
I have to wait until I find drivers now. I think the Video card may be dying though:
when I changed the resolution (without drivers) the screen got all weird. There was a band of three desktops (each 640x480) across the top of the screen which was being changed to 1024x768. I also got some pretty bad artifacts. Though when I hit the power button on the case, Windows shut down normally.

Not sure if this was caused by lack of drivers or GPU instability.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


I also got some pretty bad artifacts. Though when I hit the power button on the case, Windows shut down normally.

Not sure if this was caused by lack of drivers or GPU instability.


Nategr8ns, artifacts may indicate a faulty/failing video card. In my experience overheating of a video card usually causes artifacting but also excessive overclocking can cause that. Have you pulled the card out and taken a look at the capacitors? Are they bulged/leaking? Do you have another video card to test with?

Good luck


----------



## nategr8ns

I don't see any bulges or breaks, but I just cleaned out the heatsink of dust and reapplied thermal paste. The old stuff was custy, and the cooler has a tendency to rock back and forth because of having only two mounting holes. It still rocks, but its held down pretty tight on the die (from what I can tell) and the fan doesn't speed up. I still don't have drivers on it so I can't test temps.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


I don't see any bulges or breaks, but I just cleaned out the heatsink of dust and reapplied thermal paste. The old stuff was custy, and the cooler has a tendency to rock back and forth because of having only two mounting holes. It still rocks, but its held down pretty tight on the die (from what I can tell) and the fan doesn't speed up. I still don't have drivers on it so I can't test temps.


Nate, do you need help finding drivers? What kind of card is it? Are you sure you don't have an extra video card to test with?

Good luck


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Tator, way OT here but man how did you not like the movie? I thought it was awesome. The music composed by "Steve Jablonsky" was also great. Well I guess everyone has different tastes for movies









I'm an old time Gundam/Macross/Transformers fan.

I watched all of those when I was very young. So what they did to that movie was terrible.

Most of it could have been forgiven if they had just tried to stick to the original idea of the Transformers hiding from humans. And Spike being a mechanics son still.

But it had a constant lack of real substance to it. The plot was way to linear. And most "plot progressions" were forced for no other reason than "lets see how we can screw with the kid now."

And for that matter, I couldn't even come close to licking Shila as Spike. He was completely un-believable to me.

But again, I could have probably looked past most of this if they kept the original idea of "Transformers: Robots In Disguise," along with a few of the older plot elements. And maybe changed Shila. Had a different actor for him. He's just "not spike" to me. Not even as the new version of him.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


We did a side by side test at our previous LAN because we were curious about the "on paper" versus "reality" of it all.


 I am always curious about this, as most of the time there tends not to be much difference.
But as I've come to find out people do not see the same (obviously). When you take eye size, shape, color blindness, field of view, etc. into consideration, the way one person sees something is not the same as the way others see the same thing. 
Coincidentally we were studying the eye today in my anatomy class. Eyesight, just like IQ, is inherited and the ability of someones eye to discern certain things greatly differs from person to person. And just like someone may be born with an IQ of 200, some peoples eyesight is so sharp that they'll be able to see the threads on a baseball moving 100MPH or be able to identify an object flashed @ 1/220th of a second. 
So basically everything is subjective.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator Tot, thanks for clarifying. Yes I'm always VERY curious on what is "on paper" versus "reality". Perhaps I have fallen to digital trickery







. Really I think I was just blown away by the Transformers movie on blu-ray. I'm guessing since the movie was filmed digitally that is why? It looks amazing man...

Thanks for the helpful post.


 Perhaps not, at a higher refresh rate the image maybe more crisp and your eyesight is good enough to pick that up.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


I'm an old time Gundam/Macross/Transformers fan. 
I watched all of those when I was very young. So what they did to that movie was terrible. 
Most of it could have been forgiven if they had just tried to stick to the original idea of the Transformers hiding from humans. And Spike being a mechanics son still. 
But it had a constant lack of real substance to it. The plot was way to linear. And most "plot progressions" were forced for no other reason than "lets see how we can screw with the kid now." 
And for that matter, I couldn't even come close to licking Shila as Spike. He was completely un-believable to me. 
But again, I could have probably looked past most of this if they kept the original idea of "Transformers: Robots In Disguise," along with a few of the older plot elements. And maybe changed Shila. Had a different actor for him. He's just "not spike" to me. Not even as the new version of him.


 Yeah I watched the old school Transformers too, I was pretty disappointed with the movie as well. I was like where the hell is soundwave??!?!? He had the coolest voice and was the most conniving of the decepticons, they could've made a modern version of him. And I really didn't like the fact that Optimus prime was depicted as such a wuss.








I'll more than likely see the new one too, however. Maybe they'll redeem themselves?

ON TOPIC:







Well guys I just bought _another_ XFX 4870 XXX







. Found on a deal on TD that I couldn't pass up. So when it gets here I'll do some benchs with my CFX3200 and see how they do. I know my opty will bottleneck them like crazy but I got these more for my future AM3 build so they probably won't live on the CFX for too long. I'm hoping to get at least somewhat of a boost from having 2 cards. Maybe Crysis @ 50FPS?


----------



## thlnk3r

Tator, but it's Hollywood









Shoot when does an actual movie follow a book/tv series? I don't think it ever does. Your above post reminds me of my own comments that I had on the recently released Terminator movie









Sorry guys for going OT!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Perhaps not, at a higher refresh rate the image maybe more crisp and your eyesight is good enough to pick that up.


I knew along I was superhuman....


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator, but it's Hollywood









Shoot when does an actual movie follow a book/tv series? I don't think it ever does. Your above post reminds me of my own comments that I had on the recently released Terminator movie









*Sorry guys for going OT!*


 th|nk3r, that is unacceptable, You're fired!














j/k


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


th|nk3r, that is unacceptable, You're fired!














j/k


BlackOmega, hey when do I get my job back!?!?

OT: This is some interesting news about your new video card purchase. I hope your current PSU is adequate for the job


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator, but it's Hollywood









Shoot when does an actual movie follow a book/tv series? I don't think it ever does. Your above post reminds me of my own comments that I had on the recently released Terminator movie









Sorry guys for going OT!


I blame all off topic posts on Thinker, as he supports this naughtiness.









And I know it's Hollywood, but honestly, after what I saw from some of the Recent comic book movies, my hopes and expectations have shot through the roof.

Sin City, Batman & Dark Knight, 300, The Watchmen. They all stayed as accurate as they could while being up to date.

Sin City & 300 were almost 100% copies of the comics. Watchmen only altered the ending (and in a good way) because the old ending was so dated, most wouldn't have gotten into it, and been angered by it.)

Batman & Darknight both took from Frank Miller's work with Batman, and did very good representations of Batman & Frank's work, even though they were not direct clones of either, and tried to re-invent batman. And in this case, in a very good way.

Bryan Singer did amazing work as well with X-men 1 & 2. It is to be noted that he didn't work with 3 or Wolverine Origins.

Then, The Hulk (2nd version) & Iron Man also had amazing showings. And were again, done in almost a perfect sense. These both taken almost directly from comic continuity, and very well portrayed with little alterations to the original story & plot.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


OT: This is some interesting news about your new video card purchase. I hope your current PSU is adequate for the job










Actually, he's cutting it really close.

Under load it'll probably kill his 12v line.

You need 44amps for the 12v just on the 2 HD4870's. That only leaves 5amps for his CPU, which could do an undervolted single core..maybe..

Though, at idle 3D clocks they use 10-12amps, so he'll be fine except during stress testing.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, hey when do I get my job back!?!?

OT: This is some interesting news about your new video card purchase. I hope your current PSU is adequate for the job










 I'm going to use my 750w for these 2 power hogs. And since all my GSO's do now is fold 24/7 I think 610w should be sufficient for them as that PSU has more than enough amperage to do so, not to mention folding doesn't use as much power as gaming. 
And speaking of folding, Stanford is really starting to get on my nerves. Their damn servers don't want to accept the connection from folding rig 2 and it winds up sitting idle for hours at a time. I was checking my PPD output and was noticing that it was rather low. I check FR2 and see that Stanfords server keeps sending that machine a 503 error so it winds up storing all of the WU's. Then it wont send any new ones. 
It makes me feel like I've wasted money on the GPU's and electricity just to have 1 rig sit there mostly idle.








At any rate, when that 2nd card shows up I'll have quite the project on my hands. I've decided to SLI mod both of the ultra-D's (I'll test 1 thoroughly before I do the other) and see if I can get them to fold without issue.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Yo, you Off-Topicers! Quit it!

Ah nuts. That didn't work.

Fine, fine, I'll join in. If you can't beat them, join them.

*Soundwave superior; Constructicons inferior.*


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Yo, you Off-Topicers! Quit it!

Ah nuts. That didn't work.

Fine, fine, I'll join in. If you can't beat them, join them.

*Soundwave superior; Constructicons inferior.*


 NICE!







Like the new avatar too


----------



## Tator Tot

Oh if I didn't like the singularity of my Tot so much.... >.>

But I could never decide which Transformer is my favorite anyways. If it was "Beastwars" I could. Or if you asked which group is my favorite, I can answer that...but one out of the whole lot...it's just to hard.

Star Scream is a good candidate though. Just because he was Cobra Commander on G.I. Joe.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Oh if I didn't like the singularity of my Tot so much.... >.>

But I could never decide which Transformer is my favorite anyways. If it was "Beastwars" I could. Or if you asked which group is my favorite, I can answer that...but one out of the whole lot...it's just to hard.

Star Scream is a good candidate though. Just because he was Cobra Commander on G.I. Joe.


 Did you see, they're releasing a Cobra (G.I. Joe) movie soon?!?!

And I always liked soundwave and optimus prime, they had the coolest voices. I'm glad they used the same voice actor in the movie. If they didn't I would've been highly disappointed.


----------



## Tator Tot

Amen to that BlackOmega, only part about that movie that I enjoyed was Optimus Primes original VA was Optimus.

And yeah, I know about the G.I. Joe movie, but it looks to be as bad if not worse than, Transformers.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Tator, you must change your avatar.

Or

Prepare for... OBLIVION.










I think that's enough OT for me, boyos! I'll see y'alls later.


----------



## Tator Tot

G'night Joe, but I'll never give into your Nine-hundred & thirty-nine methods of torture!

NEVER!

By the ALLSPARC I shall never give into the Decepticons!


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Nate, do you need help finding drivers? What kind of card is it? Are you sure you don't have an extra video card to test with?

Good luck


Not really, although I don't know which to get.
Would I be better off with the newest edition CCC, or do I want one from back when the X700 was mainstream?
Or does the CCC not even contain drivers?


----------



## Hueristic

That's it Infractions for you all! Guess I'm too old to like transformers, But Starblazers were my thing as a kid!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Sin City, Batman & Dark Knight, 300, The Watchmen. They all stayed as accurate as they could while being up to date.

Tator, I thought Batman Begins and Dark Knight were awesome films. Loved the music and storyline. Good stuff.

About the new GI Joe movie....it's probably going to suck but I'll still go see it.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
Not really, although I don't know which to get.
Would I be better off with the newest edition CCC, or do I want one from back when the X700 was mainstream?
Or does the CCC not even contain drivers?









Nate, I would just install the "display driver" for that series video card. The only available version for the X700 is 9.3.

Clubbers, maybe we should make Friday the official Transformers avatar day


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
I blame all off topic posts on Thinker, as he supports this naughtiness.









And I know it's Hollywood, but honestly, after what I saw from some of the Recent comic book movies, my hopes and expectations have shot through the roof.

Sin City, Batman & Dark Knight, 300, The Watchmen. They all stayed as accurate as they could while being up to date.

Sin City & 300 were almost 100% copies of the comics. Watchmen only altered the ending (and in a good way) because the old ending was so dated, most wouldn't have gotten into it, and been angered by it.)

Batman & Darknight both took from Frank Miller's work with Batman, and did very good representations of Batman & Frank's work, even though they were not direct clones of either, and tried to re-invent batman. And in this case, in a very good way.

Bryan Singer did amazing work as well with X-men 1 & 2. It is to be noted that he didn't work with 3 or Wolverine Origins.

Then, The Hulk (2nd version) & Iron Man also had amazing showings. And were again, done in almost a perfect sense. These both taken almost directly from comic continuity, and very well portrayed with little alterations to the original story & plot.

One reason all those movies were amazing .....The directors of each loved those characters and had enough good sense to stay very close to the source material. PLUS all these movies play very well on a 939 rig


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
That's it Infractions for you all! Guess I'm too old to like transformers, But Starblazers were my thing as a kid!
















@ infractions for all...

Wow that was a hidden msg if I've ever seen one. Starblazers, sounds like a old country western or something.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator, I thought Batman Begins and Dark Knight were awesome films. Loved the music and storyline. Good stuff.

About the new GI Joe movie....it's probably going to suck but I'll still go see it.


 I just saw dark knight for teh first time 2 nights ago. I actually liked it, I think Heath Ledger did a very good job at playing the joker. I think that they redid the ending because of his death though. It seemed like they were going to make a sequel basing off of 2face. But I don't think there will be one now.

As for GI Joe, I'll probably see that too. Whether it sucks or not







. Come to think of it I haven't seen Ironman yet. I've heard good things about it though.

I wish they'd make a GOOD Robotech movie though. That was probably my favorite series as a kid.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I wish they'd make a GOOD Robotech movie though. That was probably my favorite series as a kid.

We have the technology. As Japan built a 1:1 version of the original RX-78-2 Gundam.









Either way, a small update on my Opty love, currently hit a small brick wall on my overclocking fun.

So far I can't pull 2.8ghz w/ DDR 333 stable.

AND I SHALL NOT SACRIFICE MY RAM SPEED!






























Prepare for the worst A8N32-SLi Deluxe!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


We have the technology. As Japan built a 1:1 version of the original RX-78-2 Gundam.









Either way, a small update on my Opty love, currently hit a small brick wall on my overclocking fun.

So far I can't pull 2.8ghz w/ DDR 333 stable.

AND I SHALL NOT SACRIFICE MY RAM SPEED!






























Prepare for the worst A8N32-SLi Deluxe!


Tator, what RAM are you running with that A8N32-SLI Deluxe? Also, where are you on the various voltages?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


We have the technology. As Japan built a 1:1 version of the original RX-78-2 Gundam.









Either way, a small update on my Opty love, currently hit a small brick wall on my overclocking fun.

So far I can't pull 2.8ghz w/ DDR 333 stable.

AND I SHALL NOT SACRIFICE MY RAM SPEED!






























Prepare for the worst A8N32-SLi Deluxe!


 Tator from my personal limited experience with 939's, you should be able to get an easy 500MHz OC. So far I've seen I can get that stable out of any 939 chip I have used, opty 165,180, 3800x2 (manchester), 3500+(venice). And most of the time I was able to do that with stock voltages, even with the 3800x2.
And like Joe asked what RAM are you using?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Tator, what RAM are you running with that A8N32-SLI Deluxe? Also, where are you on the various voltages?


Currently sitting on stock Voltage for everything.

I believe this GeIL kit is my RAM. The timings are actually 2.5-3-3-6-1T. Which I currently have it set to. But for some reason, it doesn't like DDR 333 for the speed with those timings, and it's voltage at 2.65 or 2.55 (I've tried both since it has a range)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Currently sitting on stock Voltage for everything.

I believe this GeIL kit is my RAM. The timings are actually 2.5-3-3-6-1T. Which I currently have it set to. But for some reason, it doesn't like DDR 333 for the speed with those timings, and it's voltage at 2.65 or 2.55 (I've tried both since it has a range)


Thanks, Tator.

I'll have to do some research on what the ICs are for that RAM kit.

I'll report back once I find any good info.









It may be, though, that your CPU may have hit its limit at stock VCore. Have you tried to see what just the CPU's limits are on its own, both in max speed and max speed you can get on stock VCore?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


It may be, though, that your CPU may have hit its limit at stock VCore. Have you tried to see what just the CPU's limits are on its own, both in max speed and max speed you can get on stock VCore?


I haven't been able to pull much up on the IC's...

..but..If I drop to DDR 266, I can pull another 200mhz out of stock Vcore. (3.0ghz)

But for some reason, this RAM just won't take at DDR 333 w/ a clock speed above 2.7ghz.

I haven't tried messing with any of the Voltage options. I have a package showing up tomorrow of a heatsink setup for this board, so I'm holding off my more zealous efforts.

Hopefully then, I'll just juice the chip with voltage, and play with RAM then. I might try turning it to Cas 3-3-3-8-1T with the CPU @ 2.8ghz.

It's currently doing a 20 hour run on DDR 266/2.7ghz. Hour mark 8 and going strong. No problems yet. Using S&M (since it's Skt 939 club prefered, & I've never used it before)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


But for some reason, this RAM just won't take at DDR 333 w/ a clock speed above 2.7ghz.


Tator, does it allow you to run that frequency if you were to run a command rate of 2T instead of 1T?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator, does it allow you to run that frequency if you were to run a command rate of 2T instead of 1T?


 I was just going to suggest the same thing.

Tator, my old A8N32sli deluxe didn't like running 1T at all. I found that it destabilized considerably more when I ran it @ 1T. @ 2T I was able to run @ DDR400 no matter what my CPU was set to. And with my Corsairs I was able to get them to DDR450 with relative ease and no voltage increase. Other than benchmarking, I found no benefit from running them at the higher clock. I found that my CPU frequency was what made the biggest impact on performance and more so on framerates in games like Crysis.


----------



## Tator Tot

Alright guys.

The 20hour bench on 266/2.7ghz went solid.

I'm going to try DDR 333/2.8ghz/sock voltage/3-3-3-6-2T

I'll see what I can pull out of it, I'll check back in a bit. I'm going to run this through another 20 hour.


----------



## Blitz6804

20-hour test of what? Orthos? In any event, I applaud your pursuit of stability!


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


20-hour test of what? Orthos? In any event, I applaud your pursuit of stability!


Ah, just a note, as I said earlier; I'm using S&M 20 hour runs. Doing both RAM & CPU stressing.


----------



## Blitz6804

Oh wow, S&M for twenty hours... hard core. I will bet your A/C has to be up a little higher than normal.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Oh wow, S&M for twenty hours... hard core. I will bet your A/C has to be up a little higher than normal.


Nope. My ambient temp of 23*C helps with that though.









Freezing Basement is freezing.

Good for benching, working out, and hiding from the world though.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Nope. My ambient temp of 23*C helps with that though.









Freezing Basement is freezing.


Tator, a little OT here but where do you keep your rack at?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator, a little OT here but where do you keep your rack at?


My server rack with the Poweredges?

I thought I told you, I keep it running at a data center in St. Louis (a few minutes from Ellisville where I live)

I used to keep it in the basement when it was just a wee rack of 3 PE2800's & 1 2850.









It used to keep my basement nice and toasty durring the winter time. Almost never had to turn on the furnace.

Now I just hardly have to turn on the AC because of my freezing cold basement.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


I thought I told you, I keep it running at a data center in St. Louis (a few minutes from Ellisville where I live)


Tator, oh dang it's like that...in a data center









Do I dare to ask how much you pay for the space? Is it a half or full cabinet? What kind of connectivity?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator, oh dang it's like that...in a data center









Do I dare to ask how much you pay for the space? Is it a half or full cabinet? What kind of connectivity?


It's a full 42u Rack. All my hardware.

It's hooked up to a fiber backbone with the rest of the racks there (all similar in config to mine, except they have more servers, I have more HDDs)

Either way, I don't pay for my "slot" there. As I know a few of the workers, and we use my Rack for labs & such. So you can have "in house training" for all the server/network/microsoft certifications.

Basically, they get to use most of the servers (I keep 1 to myself for a game server & the SANs is all mine







)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
(I keep 1 to myself for a game server & the SANs is all mine







)

Tator, you and your SANs...I'm jealous.

I have yet to get my lab up at home









Ok sorry back OT


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I was just going to suggest the same thing.

Tator, my old A8N32sli deluxe didn't like running 1T at all. I found that it destabilized considerably more when I ran it @ 1T. @ 2T I was able to run @ DDR400 no matter what my CPU was set to. And with my Corsairs I was able to get them to DDR450 with relative ease and no voltage increase. Other than benchmarking, I found no benefit from running them at the higher clock. I found that my CPU frequency was what made the biggest impact on performance and more so on framerates in games like Crysis.


Lately I've been thinking about setting up one of my A8N32's again. I will need another chipset cooler to use it with my WC'ing but can run it on air if need be. 
If I do, we can compare notes between our boards to see what we come up with.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Lately I've been thinking about setting up one of my A8N32's again. I will need another chipset cooler to use it with my WC'ing but can run it on air if need be. 
If I do, we can compare notes between our boards to see what we come up with.


Are you running an Opty 185 as well?

If so, that could be helpful, what RAM are you going to use?


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Are you running an Opty 185 as well?

If so, that could be helpful, what RAM are you going to use?


I can run my 165, 175 or 180 - I don't have a 185 but wish I did. I'll probrably try my OCZ Plats (2x1GB / 2-3-2-5) at first.


----------



## Blitz6804

I know Pioneerisloud said the A8N32-SLI Dlx can be temperamental with RAM. The OCZs he had did not like to run for anything whereas the Corsairs I sent him run well in excess of DDR 500.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I know Pioneerisloud said the A8N32-SLI Dlx can be temperamental with RAM. The OCZs he had did not like to run for anything whereas the Corsairs I sent him run well in excess of DDR 500.


Well, I'm going to try the 2T.

Hopefully that works out for me.

Though, many people have said my GeIL sticks are wonderful for Skt 939 & nForce 4 boards.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

My experience with the A8N32-SLI Deluxe has been easy. Not nearly as temperamental as any DFI I've played with, but still quite an accomplished overclocking board. In fact, I found my old Abit AT8 32X to be more troublesome than the Asus ever was.

This observation encompasses various types of RAM, as well. I've run Samsung UCCCs (the old Corsair DDR500s I broke with S&M), Hynix D43s (G.Skill), and Infineon CE-5s (Mushkin Redline) with this board (amongst others), all with no problems attributable to the motherboard. If there's a problem, it always shows up in MemTest86+, which means the problem is with the RAM modules themselves (testing the DIMMs in other boards confirms this conclusion).


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Lately I've been thinking about setting up one of my A8N32's again. I will need another chipset cooler to use it with my WC'ing but can run it on air if need be.
If I do, we can compare notes between our boards to see what we come up with.


Kryton, I actually sold that board right along with my opty165. But since it was my first OCing experience, I do recall that board and BIOS in relatively great detail.
It's a good board and has a lot of features in the BIOS. But since I went with a single GPU solution I didn't need it anymore and it mainly sat in its box in place of the DFI's, which I have found to be a lot more overclocker friendly.

But any ?'s you might have don't hesitate to ask. And as Blitz said, Pio had issues with his OCZ's, I had issues with my Hyper-x's. The Corsair XMS's worked the best on that board, although I was able to achieve the tightest timings with the kingstons (2-2-2-5).

Tator, 1 suggestion, while S&M is the preferred method of testing running 20+ hour loops is somewhat pointless. S&M tests it hard enough to find most errors with the short test. So for every step just run the short test and look for errors in L1,L2 & FPU. If no errors move on to the next clock and short test again. Then once you get to the OC you'd like to stay with, then run you long test to ensure stability.
Thats how I test it and S&M usually finds the errors quickly. The failed OC's I've had were found by S&M in a matter of 5 minutes. My stable OC's can run considerably longer.
Run the test @ 100% load, and be sure to keep an eye on temps especially during the FPU test, that ones really hardcore.
Good luck


----------



## Tator Tot

I'm running a 20 hour run to be 100% certain it's stable.

Temps are fine. I currently hit 56-57*C full load.

Though, with previous S&M tests, I've found out the bad overclocks (dealing with RAM) are on the 4 & 5 hour marks. Some showed up at the 8 hour makr.


----------



## Blitz6804

I personally run an S&M test. If it passes, then I load up Orthos for about 10-12 hours. There have been times where something will pass S&M, but fail Orthos, for as Tator Tot pointed out, S&M is a little spotty when it comes to RAM stressing.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


I'm running a 20 hour run to be 100% certain it's stable.

Temps are fine. I currently hit 56-57*C full load.

Though, with previous S&M tests, I've found out the bad overclocks (dealing with RAM) are on the 4 & 5 hour marks. Some showed up at the 8 hour makr.


 I wonder if the RAM failures were due to temps, as there is no real way of monitoring the RAM.

And I personally have stopped using Orthos, OCCT,Prime for stress testing other than reference clock. I've had overclock fail those 3 yet pass S&M and be perfectly stable. My opty 180 is one of those. It has run stable @ 2.9 pretty much since December yet I guarantee it would fail orthos,OCCT,prime. For some reason those tests don't seem to work too well with 939's. But no test is infallible. After I do my S&M run, I usually test out my OC by running a loop of the Crysis benchmark, 3d06 several times then just gaming for a few hours. If I don't get any noticeable anomalies it's good to go.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Kryton, I actually sold that board right along with my opty165. But since it was my first OCing experience, I do recall that board and BIOS in relatively great detail. 
It's a good board and has a lot of features in the BIOS. But since I went with a single GPU solution I didn't need it anymore and it mainly sat in its box in place of the DFI's, which I have found to be a lot more overclocker friendly.

But any ?'s you might have don't hesitate to ask. And as Blitz said, Pio had issues with his OCZ's, I had issues with my Hyper-x's. The Corsair XMS's worked the best on that board, although I was able to achieve the tightest timings with the kingstons (2-2-2-5).

Tator, 1 suggestion, while S&M is the preferred method of testing running 20+ hour loops is somewhat pointless. S&M tests it hard enough to find most errors with the short test. So for every step just run the short test and look for errors in L1,L2 & FPU. If no errors move on to the next clock and short test again. Then once you get to the OC you'd like to stay with, then run you long test to ensure stability.
Thats how I test it and S&M usually finds the errors quickly. The failed OC's I've had were found by S&M in a matter of 5 minutes. My stable OC's can run considerably longer. 
Run the test @ 100% load, and be sure to keep an eye on temps especially during the FPU test, that ones really hardcore.
Good luck










I found with this board that it can OC but settings have to be right or it just won't go. It's limited in some ways vs the DFI and that's something anyone with one of these boards would have to work around. While it can give plenty of voltage to the CPU, voltage to RAM and chipsets is the thing that will hold you back. 
I will say with adequate cooling, it does much better overall and is a more stable platform temp-wise than a DFI running at the same temps. DFI's are sensitive to heat and the Asus doesn't seem to mind it so much as long as temps don't get really high. 
Each has it's advantages and the A8N32 is a good board in it's own right and I don't regret at all having one around. 
The below run was done with one of my A8N32's awhile back (Over a year ago) when I was pushing the board and other components to see how far I could go with it on air. Obviously I have better cooling now and need another chipset block to make use of it with my setup due to the SB needing it's own cooler too. This is about as far as I could get it and nothing I tried would give me more from it at the time inspite of some terrific ambient temps (Winter time) that was present when done.


----------



## thlnk3r

Kryton, I tell you what man that is the first 4000+ OC that I have seen passed the 3Ghz mark. Some of your other overclocks are just insane too.

Good job


----------



## N2Gaming

He has the secrec sauce like Mickey D's LOL He's not afraid to push the voltage where he needs it in order to get them that high.







way past my comfort zone... ha ha

I just bought a couple of video cards and was wondering if you guys think I got a good deal for $80.00


----------



## Blitz6804

Two watercooled 8800 GTS G80s for $80? Sounds good to me! Now you just need the rest of the system.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Kryton, I tell you what man that is the first 4000+ OC that I have seen passed the 3Ghz mark. Some of your other overclocks are just insane too.

Good job










Thanks man!

I've had some time to figure things out along the way and owe it to all to a certain Socket A rig I benched with in the past. 
That's where I learned the fine art of getting the most from a system that's limited in what's available to use with it compared to the more exotic boards out there. 
BTW this Socket A is still around and can still run like it used to - Just haven't unpacked the MB from it's box in ages now. Here's the best run it ever had and considering the MB model it is, not too bad at all if I say so myself.
Ah, the memories....


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Two watercooled 8800 GTS G80s for $80? Sounds good to me! Now you just need the rest of the system.


Thanks. I have plenty of systems for it. All I need now is the H2O pump,rad,tubing,res & I'll be good to go...

Edit: I've been wanting to go H2O for a while now and this will make it a little more easy on the vga set up...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I just bought a couple of video cards and was wondering if you guys think I got a good deal for $80.00


N2Gaming, in my opinion that is an excellent deal! The 8800GTS is still a great card. Heck that beats the crap out of my X800









Good luck

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


BTW this Socket A is still around and can still run like it used to - Just haven't unpacked the MB from it's box in ages now. Here's the best run it ever had and considering the MB model it is, not too bad at all if I say so myself.


Kryton, man that is insane. I'm guessing the Vcore for that Barton was passed 1.7 volts?


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thanks. I have plenty of systems for it. All I need now is the H2O pump,rad,tubing,res & I'll be good to go...

Edit: I've been wanting to go H2O for a while now and this will make it a little more easy on the vga set up...


If you've never tried WC'ing, you'll love it and probrably say to yourself "Why didn't I do this earlier and I should kick myself for not doing so".

Believe me when I say you won't want to go back on air once you get the feel of what you can do with WC'ing.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Kryton, man that is insane. I'm guessing the Vcore for that Barton was passed 1.7 volts?


1.92v and was using a Volcano 11 cooler when I did that. This board tends to overvolt by 0.07 and glad it does considering the BIOS only gives a max 1.85v setting. 
Did that back in Jan 08 when we had a severe cold snap and took full advantage. Had it outside late in the evening with a desktop fan blowing through the case and I can tell you cooling was not a problem under those conditions but keeping myself warm was... .


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


1.92v and was using a Volcano 11 cooler when I did that. This board tends to overvolt by 0.07 and glad it does considering the BIOS only gives a max 1.85v setting.


Kryton, I think that's the first Socket A I've seen with that high of an overclock. Pretty crazy voltages too


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Kryton, I think that's the first Socket A I've seen with that high of an overclock. Pretty crazy voltages too










I can show you some stuff that would make your hair stand on end concerning Socket A and I'm not the one who did it.

http://forums.extremeoverclocking.co...d.php?t=269052

Checkout the honorable mention in the Super PI listing and I will gladly vouch for him on that one.

BTW, I'm Dr. McCoy in that forum.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Checkout the honorable mention in the Super PI listing and I will gladly vouch for him on that one.

Kryton, that 1M SuperPI time is actually fast if not faster then my current Opteron 146...that is funny


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
If you've never tried WC'ing, you'll love it and probrably say to yourself "Why didn't I do this earlier and I should kick myself for not doing so".

Believe me when I say you won't want to go back on air once you get the feel of what you can do with WC'ing.

Yep I have been wanting to do it ever since I bought my first enthusiast board DFI NF4 SLI DR all the way back in 2005 but for one reason or another I always justified buying other hardware like mobo/cpu/ram/vga's etc etc... Now there is no excuse left but to doeet... Does any one know of a good cheap place to get the threaded water fittings to connect the water tubes to the water blocks?


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Yep I have been wanting to do it ever since I bought my first enthusiast board DFI NF4 SLI DR all the way back in 2005 but for one reason or another I always justified buying other hardware like mobo/cpu/ram/vga's etc etc... Now there is no excuse left but to doeet... Does any one know of a good cheap place to get the threaded water fittings to connect the water tubes to the water blocks?

I think DangerDen should have what you need.
http://www.dangerden.com/

Here's the link to the components in question:
http://www.dangerden.com/store/home.php?cat=7


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


I found with this board that it can OC but settings have to be right or it just won't go. It's limited in some ways vs the DFI and that's something anyone with one of these boards would have to work around. While it can give plenty of voltage to the CPU, voltage to RAM and chipsets is the thing that will hold you back. 
I will say with adequate cooling, it does much better overall and is a more stable platform temp-wise than a DFI running at the same temps. DFI's are sensitive to heat and the Asus doesn't seem to mind it so much as long as temps don't get really high. 
Each has it's advantages and the A8N32 is a good board in it's own right and I don't regret at all having one around. 
The below run was done with one of my A8N32's awhile back (Over a year ago) when I was pushing the board and other components to see how far I could go with it on air. Obviously I have better cooling now and need another chipset block to make use of it with my setup due to the SB needing it's own cooler too. This is about as far as I could get it and nothing I tried would give me more from it at the time inspite of some terrific ambient temps (Winter time) that was present when done.


 Thats a very nice overclock Kryton. I got my 3500+ to ~3150, but it got too hot and wont budge over 2850 now







.

Temps for the most part were never an issue with the A8N32sli. The board did very well, although I think mine had some vcore stability issues. No matter what I did I could never get it stable unlike my DFI's which are rock solid.
The chipset heatpipe works VERY well, never had any problems there either. I put a tornado fan (90cfm 80mm) on my stock opteron cooler once and it moved so much air that my board actually was several degrees cooler than the cpu. And I don't think it ever went above 35*C @ fully loaded.
After I got my Corsairs any sort of stability issues went away. (except for vcore fluctuation).
I stopped using it mainly because of the voltage issues. I was able to achieve a higher 24/7 OC with the DFI's. Not to mention there were so many more BIOS options it wasn't funny.

In regards to the A8N32, most people haven't messed with the PCIe overclock setting. It does actually work, 5MHz per card is what I've found works best. While it doesn't give much it gave about 2fps in Crysis, considering I started @ 15 FPS thats a pretty good improvement.

I do kind of miss that board, but I'm going to be using crossfire so it would've been useless anyway.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I just bought a couple of video cards and was wondering if you guys think I got a good deal for $80.00


 N2 if its these cards, then thats a pretty damn good deal.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I wonder if the RAM failures were due to temps, as there is no real way of monitoring the RAM.


Nope. I have thermal sensors on the middle IC's, along with 2 Antec Spot Cools on the board (1 on the nForce 4, 1 on RAM)

And I used a thermal gun, it confirms the same temps within 1*C of my Kama Thermo


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Darth Raivo LIVES.

Passed the "smoke test" with flying colors (nothing blew up; passed first POST with NO problems whatsoever) last night.

If I have time today, I'll set up the RAID 0 array and install the OS.


----------



## nategr8ns

congrats joe


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
congrats joe









Thanks, nate!


----------



## Tator Tot

Alright, so I just checked 2.8ghz/DDR333 3-3-3-6-2T and it failed out on hour mark 15.

So I'm going to run some Memtest86+ on it right now to see if that detects any errors. Then do some strait RAM loading and nothing else.

I'm putting this mostly up to the board, and I'm going to tweak voltage. (later today my new stuff should show up so I can crank in the voltage)


----------



## nategr8ns

I have a quick question about bootable USB drives...
I have a bootable ISO that I want to put on the thumb drive (2gb), but when its unpacked its a whopping 3.2gb instead of the 699mb it is as an ISO. What options do I have? I can't fit it on unpacked, but I don't think it will boot as an ISO file...


----------



## Blitz6804

As far as I know, your only option is to get a 4 GB or larger thumb drive. (Will read in the OS as 3.7 GB most likely.)


----------



## SuppA-SnipA

re overclocked my dfi lanparty rig, it's at 2.7ghz with an Athlon 4000+ single core. 
load temps at 57C, the heatsink im using is the thermaltake volcano 12 which doesnt make for a good overclocking hsf. then again i will re test the load temps as i added a side 80mm fan, mostly to cool the ram, but it will still be blowing air on the hsf.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

GJ, Suppa-SnipA!


----------



## nategr8ns

Thanks anyways blitz.
So there is no way to just put the files in an ISO and put that on the drive?

I didn't realize ISOs were packed down so much.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


I think DangerDen should have what you need. 
http://www.dangerden.com/

Here's the link to the components in question:
http://www.dangerden.com/store/home.php?cat=7


thanks for the link. PM'n the post to myself for easy retrieval.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


N2 if its these cards, then thats a pretty damn good deal.










 Thanks BO, I won't know what model # they are until I get them some time next week. I'll let you all know the exact model number. The cards are suppose to still have the serial numbers so I will be able to tell the model from that.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Thats a very nice overclock Kryton. I got my 3500+ to ~3150, but it got too hot and wont budge over 2850 now







.

Temps for the most part were never an issue with the A8N32sli. The board did very well, although I think mine had some vcore stability issues. No matter what I did I could never get it stable unlike my DFI's which are rock solid.
The chipset heatpipe works VERY well, never had any problems there either. I put a tornado fan (90cfm 80mm) on my stock opteron cooler once and it moved so much air that my board actually was several degrees cooler than the cpu. And I don't think it ever went above 35*C @ fully loaded.
After I got my Corsairs any sort of stability issues went away. (except for vcore fluctuation).
I stopped using it mainly because of the voltage issues. I was able to achieve a higher 24/7 OC with the DFI's. Not to mention there were so many more BIOS options it wasn't funny.

In regards to the A8N32, most people haven't messed with the PCIe overclock setting. It does actually work, 5MHz per card is what I've found works best. While it doesn't give much it gave about 2fps in Crysis, considering I started @ 15 FPS thats a pretty good improvement.

I do kind of miss that board, but I'm going to be using crossfire so it would've been useless anyway.

N2 if its these cards, then thats a pretty damn good deal.









Vcore stability is an issue I've also experienced with the A8N32 and there is a mod that helps to stabilize it, plus using a waterblock on the MOSFET's at the top of the board helps too. I don't have a waterblock for these but if I can, I'll get one and use it.

The blue coating on the back of the board they all came with works and my MB temps were good too. Asus did some real engineering getting it to work and the heatpipes themselves work great.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

RTFM is so true.

I've run into a snag RAIDing with Darth Raivo. I've had to disassemble the rig to clear the CMOS (the Clear CMOS jumper is right under the video card); I need to redo some of the cables anyway, so it's all good.









Okay. Gotta RTFM now.







Will report success (hopefully) or further frustrating failure later.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Vcore stability is an issue I've also experienced with the A8N32 and there is a mod that helps to stabilize it, plus using a waterblock on the MOSFET's at the top of the board helps too. I don't have a waterblock for these but if I can, I'll get one and use it.

The blue coating on the back of the board they all came with works and my MB temps were good too. Asus did some real engineering getting it to work and the heatpipes themselves work great.


 what is that mod? Just curious. Also, on my board, I found that using the overvolt option, which from what I gather enables the 8phase power management, actually worked better. Although with Joe's and Pio's boards that wasn't the case.

And I wasn't aware that there was some sort of thermo protective layer on the back. Perhaps that is part of their stack cool thing.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*









RTFM is so true.

I've run into a snag RAIDing with Darth Raivo. I've had to disassemble the rig to clear the CMOS (the Clear CMOS jumper is right under the video card); I need to redo some of the cables anyway, so it's all good.









Okay. Gotta RTFM now.







Will report success (hopefully) or further frustrating failure later.










 Joe, sometimes it's easier to just pop the battery. And if it is that much of a pain to use the jumper maybe you could make yourself a clear CMOS switch.

Good luck, and definitely post up some benches on those raptors RAIDed, I'd like to see what kind of throughput they have.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


what is that mod? Just curious. Also, on my board, I found that using the overvolt option, which from what I gather enables the 8phase power management, actually worked better. Although with Joe's and Pio's boards that wasn't the case.

And I wasn't aware that there was some sort of thermo protective layer on the back. Perhaps that is part of their stack cool thing.










Yes, the protective coating is Stack Cool II and it really works.

I'm not aware that enabling the OV option allows the 8 phase power management to work, more like all that does is to allow 0.2 more volts than what's selected in the BIOS. The 8 phase part should work at all times due to the MB's CPU circuit's design BUT I could be wrong there. I've never heard of the 8 phase deal being enabled/disabled before.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Joe, sometimes it's easier to just pop the battery. And if it is that much of a pain to use the jumper maybe you could make yourself a clear CMOS switch.

Good luck, and definitely post up some benches on those raptors RAIDed, I'd like to see what kind of throughput they have.


Since I normally just hold down my power button on my case to reset the mobo, I use my reset button a CLR CMOS.

Which I find really works well.

Though, I've always though of picking up one of the silverstone buttons, and modding it into the top of my Antec 1200.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Thanks anyways blitz.
So there is no way to just put the files in an ISO and put that on the drive?

I didn't realize ISOs were packed down so much.


Nate, an ISO file is more so an Image file (ie. Archive File). What exactly are you trying to boot to on the usb thumb drive? Have tried making the image file lighter like removing unnecessary files that you may not need?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I've run into a snag RAIDing with Darth Raivo. I've had to disassemble the rig to clear the CMOS (the Clear CMOS jumper is right under the video card); I need to redo some of the cables anyway, so it's all good.










Joe, are you having troubles getting the Windows XP media to boot up after POST? I sort of had the same issue with my GA-K8N SLI-Pro and my DFI SLI-DR. I had to play with the boot device priority and I also had to make sure the optical drive was being recognized on the sata ports...oddly enough it was showing in POST but still wasn't being properly recognized. This problem only happened when Raid was enabled.

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Joe, are you having troubles getting the Windows XP media to boot up after POST? I sort of had the same issue with my GA-K8N SLI-Pro and my DFI SLI-DR. I had to play with the boot device priority and I also had to make sure the optical drive was being recognized on the sata ports...oddly enough it was showing in POST but still wasn't being properly recognized. This problem only happened when Raid was enabled.

Good luck


LOL We have one thing in common, then: the DFI SLI-DR. Times like these I think DFI means *D*esigned *F*or *I*rritation.

I've fiddled with the boot device priority settings, changed SATA controllers to which the SATA optical is attached from the Silicon Image to the nVidia (which is bootable by default). I've also swapped optical drives (two SATA opticals) and tried a few WinXP discs.

I also tried an IDE optical, but for some reason that didn't work either. I think I'll try using the other IDE channel and double-check that the drive shows up in the BIOS.

And I thought that this thing would be off the ground by now.


----------



## thlnk3r

Joe, dumb question but after reverting back to Factory Defaults what exactly did you change? This is really weird that you are running into this. I had the SAME exact problem with my boards. It's annoying. I eventually ditched the integrated controller and went with a discrete card (but that eventually took a poopoo...stupid Promise).

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Joe, dumb question but after reverting back to Factory Defaults what exactly did you change? This is really weird that you are running into this. I had the SAME exact problem with my boards. It's annoying. I eventually ditched the integrated controller and went with a discrete card (but that eventually took a poopoo...stupid Promise).

Good luck


Let's see...

After reverting to Optimized Defaults, I saved, then re-entered the BIOS setup (hit Del per usual after reboot).

Went into Standard CMOS Features to recheck if the drives installed on the nVidia SATA controller were detected; they were (2 150GB VelociRaptors which are going to be put in a RAID 0 array - I've done this step both with the RAID 0 configured and not configured). I always do this step after reloading Optimized Defaults.

Next I go to Advanced BIOS Features and check the Hard Drive Priority. Nothing amiss here, near as I can tell, as I can always see my HDDs (both VRs and the 500GB Caviar Green hooked up to the Silicon Image controller, which is not a bootable drive). After this, I check boot device priority, and always select the CD-ROM option for the first device since I'm attempting to install the OS.

Here's where I think things go amiss a bit. When the SATA optical was on the Silicon Image controller, it wouldn't show up on the Boot Device Priority drop-down menu. But when I put it on the nVidia controller, it showed up.

I sort of understand now that you can't use the Silicon Image controller for boot-up drives at this stage of the game, but what's strange is that even when I put the SATA optical on the nVidia controller I keep getting a "Disk Boot Failure, Insert System Disk and Press Enter" message.

(Sorry for the long post.)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I sort of understand now that you can't use the Silicon Image controller for boot-up drives at this stage of the game, but what's strange is that even when I put the SATA optical on the nVidia controller I keep getting a "Disk Boot Failure, Insert System Disk and Press Enter" message.


Joe, at this point does the optical drive led light even light up?

At POST isn't there an option for choosing boot devices? I vaguely remember there being one









Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

thlnk3r, the optical drive LED blinks as normal. Upon recollection, though, the CD doesn't sound like it spins up, though, after the LED blinks.









As far as choosing boot devices at POST, I haven't seen one.

Weird. LOL

I'll be back in a few; I'm going to try something.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


As far as choosing boot devices at POST, I haven't seen one.

Weird. LOL

I'll be back in a few; I'm going to try something.


Joe, try hitting the "F" key at POST to see if that brings up the _boot menu_.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I am the Club Village Idiot!

So, remember how I said I had switched the SATA optical drive to the nVidia controller? I have two SATA opticals on this machine, and I only hooked one of these up to the nVidia controller...

The Village Idiot put the WinXP disk in the WRONG SATA optical.
















So now I discovered this error, put the WinXP disk in the correct optical, and now I can boot into the DVD ROM drive as I should.

Now there's a new problem: I can't seem to load the RAID drivers from the floppy drive. I hit F6 when prompted, the installation routine searches for the drive, and it tells me it cannot find the drivers on the floppy.









At least we're making progress, eh?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Now there's a new problem: I can't seem to load the RAID drivers from the floppy drive. I hit F6 when prompted, the installation routine searches for the drive, and it tells me it cannot find the drivers on the floppy.










Joe, which drivers did you download off the DFI website? There are quite a few...I have a feeling you might of downloaded the wrong ones? The select is quite long. Is this the DFI CFX3200 we are working with?

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Negative on the driver DL. These drivers are from the floppy provided with the board.

As near as I can tell (by exploring the floppy disk on my functional Darth Ominous), the correct drivers are here. I have a hunch I'm exploring at the moment, however. Might have something to do with my USB floppy drive.

I'll report back if I find something instructive.

I'll also DL drivers from DFI onto a fresh floppy disk, as well, just to rule things out.

Thanks for all the help so far, good buddy!







I owe you lunch AND dinner after all this.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
As near as I can tell (by exploring the floppy disk on my functional Darth Ominous), the correct drivers are here. I have a hunch I'm exploring at the moment, however. Might have something to do with my USB floppy drive.

Joe, double check the floppy disk and make sure it has the, "TXTSETUP.OEM" file. I believe that is the file that provides list of drivers to choose from (for the Raid controller) during the XP installation.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Yep, that file is there.

I seem to recall reading somewhere in my preliminary research for this project about this Txtsetup.OEM file. Whether or not I can remember what I read was, though, is another thing altogether...


----------



## Blitz6804

If I remember right, a USB floppy is not accessible by the XP installer. Try either a simple thumb drive or temporarily running a standard floppy drive. (Or try Vista or Win7, both of which natively support RAID.) It could not hurt to also try just getting the driver from nVidia's website, which is what I ended up doing for my nForce3 board.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
If I remember right, a USB floppy is not accessible by the XP installer.

Blitz, are you sure? I did the Raid install on both my GA and DFI boards with a USB floppy drive (Windows XP) of course it probably wouldn't hurt to try a FDD.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I've read conflicting stories about USB floppy drives. I think the most logical conclusion that I can derive is that some, but not all, USB floppy drives are usable.

Fortunately, I've got a normal floppy drive lying around here somewhere...


----------



## Blitz6804

It could be a difference of manufacturers. I know when I tried a USB floppy with my Gigabyte, it did not show in the BIOS at all. The regular variety worked fine, which is why (to this date) I have a regular floppy in my rig.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I've read conflicting stories about USB floppy drives. I think the most logical conclusion that I can derive is that some, but not all, USB floppy drives are usable.

Fortunately, I've got a normal floppy drive lying around here somewhere...

yay for floppy drives. I keep numbered for such an occasion


----------



## txtmstrjoe

thlnk3r, what brand is your USB floppy drive?

Mine is a TEAC.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
thlnk3r, what brand is your USB floppy drive?

Mine is a TEAC.

Joe, oh shoot I don't even remember. It was one I grabbed from work...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I may have found a possible solution.

Click here.

And here.


I'm linking these here because they might yet prove useful to someone who runs into a similar problem as mine. Of course, this is all well and good if this is a viable solution.

I'm about to test these on a blank floppy. I will report back ASAP.

Didn't work.









Plan B: IDE Floppy Drive.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I may have found a possible solution.

Click here.

And here.


I'm linking these here because they might yet prove useful to someone who runs into a similar problem as mine. Of course, this is all well and good if this is a viable solution.

I'm about to test these on a blank floppy. I will report back ASAP.

Didn't work.









Plan B: IDE Floppy Drive.

Joe, the above links are still helpful regardless. Thanks for including those.

Hopefully the internal FDD works. If that doesn't work then you could try slip streaming the Raid drivers into the Windows XP install. That should certainly work.

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Yep, slipstreaming is Plan C.

Plan D is a murderous rampage, so I hope and pray either Plan B or C works.









EDIT: The system is now installing WinXP onto the RAID 0 partition. The fix: Downloading a new set of RAID drivers from DFI, extracting to a fresh floppy disk which is read by an internal FDD, then proceeding as usual.

Thanks to all who helped!









EDIT: Now I can sleep. WinXP preliminary installation is now COMPLETE. When time allows tomorrow, driver and software loading.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Nate, an ISO file is more so an Image file (ie. Archive File). What exactly are you trying to boot to on the usb thumb drive? Have tried making the image file lighter like removing unnecessary files that you may not need?


Well I have no idea how to do that...
I just downloaded a smaller distro of linux, SimpleMEPIS, and unarchived that onto the drive. The only problem is that when its in, the motherboard refuses to boot with the error "Remove all disks and other media and hit any key to restart."
It is recognized in BIOS as a bootable drive, so I don't know.


----------



## N2Gaming

Nate that sounds like you may be having a similar issue as joe w/the usb id thingie... I have never run usb boot OS's or files so I'm absolutely no help there. I'm sure that don't come as a supprise to any one. Do you have a DVD WR that you could write the linux OS to?

Joe glad to hear you went the long way around fixing the problem and were able to fix it before getting to plan D " disasterouse merder on your pc "







. NOTE: to self. Never attemp to use USB floppy drives.







Heck I did not even know they were in existance. Huh USB has come a long way. They are gonna be using USB 3.0 soon as well right?


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Nate that sounds like you may be having a similar issue as joe w/the usb id thingie... I have never run usb boot OS's or files so I'm absolutely no help there. I'm sure that don't come as a supprise to any one. Do you have a DVD WR that you could write the linux OS to?

Joe glad to hear you went the long way around fixing the problem and were able to fix it before getting to plan D " disasterouse merder on your pc "







. NOTE: to self. Never attemp to use USB floppy drives.







Heck I did not even know they were in existance. Huh USB has come a long way. They are gonna be using USB 3.0 soon as well right?

I think I may have solved it, I used a program called USBMP.exe to decompile the iso (although I'd been using MagicISO to do the same thing) and it came with a .bat file to make the drive bootable. Now I'm just waiting on a defragmentation job to finish before I restart and test it







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Nate, I hope it works for you. I totally forgot about the "







*[FAQ] Never Use Your Flash Drive Normally Again!!!! "* thread. Have you seen that thread? Here is the link Is that something similar to what you are doing or totally different?


----------



## nategr8ns

Lol, yeah I had forgot about that one, but it doesn't help with other operating systems.
I got the same error again... Please remove all media or whatnot.


----------



## BlackOmega

Joe, I'm glad plan B worked out for you and that plan D (







) was averted.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

LOL This DFI makes me feel so feeble.









New issue, gang: So now the RAID 0 array has WinXP installed on it. Boot times are so QUICK with a pair of VRs in RAID 0







, by the way. (Of course, this is a virgin WinXP installation, but even so...) Anyway, here's the issue: Though the Silicon Image SATA controller's drivers are installed and are in fact activated in Windows, the storage drive that is hooked up to it is not showing up under "My Computer." The WD5000AACS (500GB Caviar Green) does show up under "Device Manager" in the "Disk Drives" section.

Here's the rub: I know the drive is not yet formatted. How do I go about formatting said drive so that it's usable in Windows?

Thanks for your continued patience. Soundwave feels so inferior this weekend (much much much more so than usual.







).


----------



## Blitz6804

Right-click "My Computer" and select "Manage." Click "Disk Management" from the left. On the bottom pane, find the drive; and select initialize; well, I think that is what I think it says, it has been a while. Then format the drive in the same thing.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Right-click "My Computer" and select "Manage." Click "Disk Management" from the left. On the bottom pane, find the drive; and select initialize; well, I think that is what I think it says, it has been a while. Then format the drive in the same thing.


Will try this.

Thank you, good sir.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Right-click "My Computer" and select "Manage." Click "Disk Management" from the left. On the bottom pane, find the drive; and select initialize; well, I think that is what I think it says, it has been a while. Then format the drive in the same thing.


+ 1 good info. I have actually learned a lot from last night till now.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


+ 1 good info. I have actually learned a lot from last night till now.










Ditto.

Alas, I have to get ready to be out of the apartment for most of the day. I shall have to report on the results of this adventure later.

But yeah, thanks to everyone for their willingness to share their knowledge!


----------



## nategr8ns

Good news guys, I decided to go around the USB issue and just burn simplyMEPIS to a CD. Man, this linux thing is real nifty







. It automatically configured itself on boot-up in about a minute.
Firefox being bundled is also a nice bonus







. So I'm running GParted right now to shrink my Windows partition and I'm also adding a 30gb partition for Vista Ultimate.

My only problem is that the graphics aren't perfect, and I can't figure out how to get my desktop to stretch across both monitors. I think I need to install the Nvidia drivers though (how do I do this?).


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Ditto. 










I have learned a lot form this thread and from a thread I started about setting up multiple gpu's for folding. If you have ever been interested in folding there is a lot of good info in that thread. Check it out...


----------



## Blitz6804

Try to give yourself more than 30 GB; if I remember right, Vista Ultimate takes up about 18 GB installed.


----------



## nategr8ns

I will only be using it until I am fully ready to delete my XP partition. I will be installing/accessing programs back on that one though. Hopefully I don't have too many issues with accessing XP installs from Vista.
Gparted is taking forever...

I installed Nvidia video drivers again (man that was easy!) but I'm waiting on the partition so I can restart.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, Vista can access XP sans any incident; XP accessing Vista is more temperamental. Once you are done with GParted, boot to XP. (You WILL need to run a checkdisc; do not skip this, or you might hose the partition.) Then you can install Vista; it should auto detect the XP and place it in the bootstrapper.


----------



## nategr8ns

sweet
Is there any way to do a Chkdsk without the XP CD?
edit: Its taking forever... I wonder if it has anything to do with it being a live OS on a CD?


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes, checkdisc will run automatically as soon as you try to boot to windows. If you cancel it, you will lose access to the partition and will need to do some work in the recovery console and others to get it back. (I have done it before; not fun.)


----------



## nategr8ns

And if its not fun for you, its probably scrape-my-eyes-out-with-a-rusty-spoon bad for me







.
I'll be sure not to cancel it







.
I finally have a "time remaining" estimate on the partition resizing, and its at 40 minutes right now. Then it has to make and format the new partition.


----------



## Blitz6804

Linux makes and formats partitions in a fraction of the time it takes for Windows to do it. Whenever I install a new drive, I let a Linux LiveCD partition and format, then I run it in Windows. (Joe: I would recommend you do this if you have a LiveCD handy. Partition and format the 500 GB drive in Linux, when you boot to Windows, it should recognize right away.)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Linux makes and formats partitions in a fraction of the time it takes for Windows to do it.

Blitz, are you sure? You can do a "quick format" in disk management. Takes literally a few seconds not to mention making the partitions active happens in few seconds as well.


----------



## Blitz6804

The only time I ever do a quick format is if I want to blank a drive for an OS reinstall. If I am building the partition for the first time, or changing the file system, I do a full format.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
The only time I ever do a quick format is if I want to blank a drive for an OS reinstall. If I am building the partition for the first time, or changing the file system, I do a full format.

Blitz, ahh ok you didn't say that









How much faster does the Linux LiveCD format 500GB as oppose to Windows?


----------



## nategr8ns

I'm pretty much the same way Blitz, although I haven't purchased any new hard drives in ages







.


----------



## Blitz6804

A fraction of the time. When I formatted my 750 GB with Windows, it took about an hour. When I formatted it with Linux, it took maybe five minutes.


----------



## nategr8ns

Oh god, now I have 4 hours remaining







. I guess it finished moving it and now its shrinking it?


----------



## Blitz6804

It has to move all data to the front of the partition, verify data, reduce partition, verify data, close out the disc. When done, reboot into Windows and let it do its checkdisc. Then reopen gParted to make the new partition and format it. Then reboot to Vista installer. (Or let Vista partition and format, it is not a very large drive.) Resizing takes a LOT longer than backing up, deleting, making a new, and restoring the backup.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


A fraction of the time. When I formatted my 750 GB with Windows, it took about an hour. When I formatted it with Linux, it took maybe five minutes.


Blitz, wow that is pretty fast. That almost sounds like it's not even formatting the entire drive


----------



## Blitz6804

For fun, I think I should do an experiment right now... reformat my 80 GB SATA-150 drive in Windows, then do it again in Linux. Hm... anyone like to see the results of that?


----------



## nategr8ns

Sure, I would. Also time full format vs quick format using Windows.


----------



## Blitz6804

That is perfect. I will quick format to blank the drive. Full format in Windows. Full format in Linux. I should be back in two hours tops.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


That is perfect. I should be back in two hours tops.










Don't you have some game FPS benchies that were wanting to run as well?


----------



## Blitz6804

I have one test left. So far, I have ran Windows Quick Format, Windows regular format, Linux regular format, Linux create a partition and format, and last up is Windows create a partition and format. While I am at it, I am also going to take a quick couple of pictures to tell how to do it... results within the hour.


----------



## Blitz6804

Okay... I have the results.

OS/Format: Min:Sec
Windows Quick Format: 00:04
Windows Full Format: 29:30
Windows Partition / Full Format: 30:48
Linux Full Format: 00:13
Linux Partition / Full Format: 00:23

For the record, "Linux" refers to the "Partition Editor" (gParted) of the Ubuntu 9.04 64-bit LiveCD.

To make a new partition in Windows, right-click the unallocated space and click "New Simple Volume..."









Select the size of the paritiot









Select your settings









When you click "Finish," it starts formatting.


----------



## nategr8ns

Wow, thanks Blitz.
GParted has 18 minutes (and 10 gigabytes) left until its finished resizing my partition. In the queue I have it set to create another primary partition and format it with ntfs. Should I cancel it before it formats so that I can run checkdisk, or should I just let it format?


----------



## Blitz6804

I personally would not recommend doing it all in one sitting. However, it should be okay provided you run a checkdisc prior to running the Vista installer.


----------



## nategr8ns

crap, I got some error at the end of the GParted thing telling me to run chkdsk /f, and to reboot twice (not once), and I figured, okay fine, blitz said to do that anyway. So I reboot, and all I get is "A Disk Read Error Has Occurred."
Crap.
So now I'm booting up off of my XP install disk to run a repair







.

There is no /f option, only /p and /r.
/p doesn't seem helpful, but I don't want to try /r either if that's not what I want.


----------



## Blitz6804

chkdsk /f fixes any errors found while checking the disk. This would be done automatically under normal circumstances.


----------



## nategr8ns

Well it wasn't done automatically, and /F does not exist on my CHKDSK. I'll try to use my limited knowledge of windows commands to try to run the CHKDSK that was included on the install disk, because I think the CHKDSK or AUTOCHK or whatever .exe is damaged and that's why I only have /P and /R.

edit: the CD command isn't working for me in the recovery console... ugh.
edit again: okay, now I'm just running CHKDSK with no extra parameters. Hopefully that's what I want...

update: lol, all that did was _check_ the disk








update again: the description of my /R is different than the same on my dad's laptop. Mine reads:
/R Locates bad sectors and recovers readable data. Implies /P.

On the laptop:
/R Locates bad sectors and recovers readable data. Implies /F.
his laptop doesn't even have a /P...


----------



## Blitz6804

CHKDSK /F only works from within windows. Outside, you use CHKDSK /R or CHKDSK /P depending on the OS flavor.


----------



## BlackOmega

Geez, you guys have been having quite a bit of issues with your stuff.

Joe, did the 500GB show up when you were installing windows? I usually create all my partitions there. That way I can assign the proper letter to each drive. I've had installations assign some rather odd letters to the drives when I had other storage devices connected.


----------



## Tator Tot

Hey guys, just doing a check in, but some of my new stuff showed up today.

Moseft Heatsink, Xigmatek HDT NB Heatsink, & soutbridge low profile heatsink.

I'm slappin them all on the A8N32-SLi DLX and going at it with some cranked up voltage, I'm also looking at a pencil mod for this board, anyone know if it's good or not?

Other than that, I'll be on and off with questions as I experiment more, I'm currently re-wiring the house with new/er Cat 6 cable. And I'm re-doing the electricity some.

Hopefully we can get the drop-celing in in the basement next week.


----------



## nategr8ns

Alright, thanks blitz. So I ran Chkdsk /R once, it finished, and now I'm running it again. Just in case. If it works, I'll run chkdsk /f once or twice.


----------



## Hueristic

[email protected][email protected]#[email protected]!#$ I'm 5 pages behind and can't just jump ahead because I can't miss Gems like this!

Quote:



Plan D is a murderous rampage, so I hope and pray either Plan B or C works.


----------



## Blitz6804

Go Hue go! *Roots Hueristic on to help him get back to present day.*


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Okay... I have the results.
OS/Format: Min:Sec
Windows Quick Format: 00:04
Windows Full Format: 29:30
Windows Partition / Full Format: 30:48
Linux Full Format: 00:13
Linux Partition / Full Format: 00:23


Blitz, this is pretty awesome. Thanks for taking the time to show a comparison.

Few questions/comments I have. About the Windows Partition/Full Format, what did you use for that? Just Disk Management? When you create partitions under disk management you don't necessarily have to do a full format. I'm also kind of wondering how legitimate the Linux "Full Format" is. Is it really a "full" format? A full format to Microsoft consists of Windows (or the installer) checking each sector to see if there are any bad ones. I can't imagine the Linux software doing that in 23 seconds for a 80GB hard drive...know what I mean?

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Hey guys, just doing a check in, but some of my new stuff showed up today.

Moseft Heatsink, Xigmatek HDT NB Heatsink, & soutbridge low profile heatsink.

I'm slappin them all on the A8N32-SLi DLX and going at it with some cranked up voltage, I'm also looking at a pencil mod for this board, anyone know if it's good or not?

Other than that, I'll be on and off with questions as I experiment more, I'm currently re-wiring the house with new/er Cat 6 cable. And I'm re-doing the electricity some.

Hopefully we can get the drop-celing in in the basement next week.

O dang you're going to have to take pics of the heatsinks especially the NB. I"m curious how it fits, perhaps another alternative to active cooling on my NF4 ultra's.

And what pencil mod do you speak of? I'm curious about this?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

A couple of screenshots for y'alls before I head for bed (been installing WinXP updates and various software for this machine, as well as nursing a mild but growing headache from bad refresh rates on a CRT monitor -- I have yet to install the graphics driver as I'm using a substitute video card at the moment):

HDTach Results: WD VelociRaptor 150GB x2 in RAID 0









HDTach Results: WD 500AACS 500GB Caviar Green









These are the drives on Darth Raivo. If I remember, I'll run the same tests on the 500AAKS 500GB Caviars in Darth Ominous to compare (those are not in RAID, but in JBOD).

By the way, thanks, Blitz, for the tip in enabling the drive on the Silicon Image SATA controller in Windows. Worked a treat!


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Few questions/comments I have. About the Windows Partition/Full Format, what did you use for that? Just Disk Management? When you create partitions under disk management you don't necessarily have to do a full format. I'm also kind of wondering how legitimate the Linux "Full Format" is. Is it really a "full" format? A full format to Microsoft consists of Windows (or the installer) checking each sector to see if there are any bad ones. I can't imagine the Linux software doing that in 23 seconds for a 80GB hard drive...know what I mean?

Good luck

That is a fancy good question. I would presume Linux is not checking disk integrity as it is formatting, that could explain the speed differential. Interestingly, there is a quick format in Linux as well, but I did not bother doing it since it would be slower than just using Windows. (It takes the LiveCD a minute or two longer to boot than Vista, so two to five minutes longer than XP.) For sake of argument, maybe I will format followed by an fsck and see how long it takes.

As to how I ran it, I completely killed all superfluous processes in Vista and ran Disk Management yes.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
By the way, thanks, Blitz, for the tip in enabling the drive on the Silicon Image SATA controller in Windows. Worked a treat!









Glad to see it worked. Thanks Joe for posting your RAID results; it is interesting to see how with a RAID setup, speed does not drop off as capacity increases. (+IMGREP) It is also nice to see that your RAID rips my single drive a new one, whereas my single drive ripped my RAID a new one. If I ever find a reasonably priced IDE enclosure, I will return the other 80 GB to my computer, which currently in an enclosure in the fire-proof safe as a backup, so experiments with other OSes will be faster. (A RAID0 of two 2 MB cache SATA-150 drives is faster than a single drive of the same even if much slower than a modern drive.)


----------



## N2Gaming

That is impressive joe. Just the spd of one Velociraptor in a non raid config is blistering fast then you raid two Velociraptors and show me what I'm missing. Of course I don't miss the head acke that you were having.


----------



## nategr8ns

speaking of headache... I think my MBR (not sure 100% what that is...) got messed up somewhere along the line of my moving my partition. Even when I installed Vista on the second partition (hoping I would at least be able to boot), nothing happened. I thought Vista would put a new bootloader in, but it didn't. Now when I skip booting from CD, it just stops. It's not frozen, but it doesn't give me any HDD errors like it did before I installed Vista. Could this be because Vista put the bootloader at the beginning of _its_ partition instead of at the beginning of the entire hard drive? Vista is the second partition btw.


----------



## Hueristic

Holy [email protected]$ I'm up to post 16360! I've got soo many posts muti-qouted I'll probally bring down the board!
Fortunately most of them have already been addressed and all I could add is fluff/history.
BTW /f means full (does sector level mapping and marks Fat for bad blocks) Have no clue why microshaft changes everything I think it's to keep guys like me from staying up to date.







If we could do that we could tear M$ down.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
A couple of screenshots for y'alls before I head for bed (been installing WinXP updates and various software for this machine, as well as nursing a mild but growing headache from bad refresh rates on a CRT monitor -- I have yet to install the graphics driver as I'm using a substitute video card at the moment):

HDTach Results: WD VelociRaptor 150GB x2 in RAID 0









HDTach Results: WD 500AACS 500GB Caviar Green









These are the drives on Darth Raivo. If I remember, I'll run the same tests on the 500AAKS 500GB Caviars in Darth Ominous to compare (those are not in RAID, but in JBOD).

By the way, thanks, Blitz, for the tip in enabling the drive on the Silicon Image SATA controller in Windows. Worked a treat!









Very nice results Joe







Man those raptors are blistering fast. Nice to see that they beat out the SCSI drives.








The results for your caviars are pretty much identical to my WD 250GB (SE-16,RE-16) drives. Out of curiosity are those drives 16 or 32MB cache?

As for me, my second GPU just showed up







. Unfortunately I have to study for the next 6 hours :swearing: so I won't be able to post up any results for a while.
Still debating on whether I should swap my opty 180 to the CFX or leave the 3800x2 on there as the temps with the lapped CPU and cooler are rather remarkable. Even over-volted to ~1.55v it stays well within my desired temp range. Although, I can achieve a higher overclock with my opty. Hmmmmm...







decisions, decisions.

Anyway, when I get it all figured out I'll post up some screen shots and see if crossfiring really makes a difference or not.

Have a good day gentlemen.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
O dang you're going to have to take pics of the heatsinks especially the NB. I"m curious how it fits, perhaps another alternative to active cooling on my NF4 ultra's.

And what pencil mod do you speak of? I'm curious about this?

Will do, I'll have to borrow my Mum's Digital, as mine currently has a dead battery.

Asus A8N32-SLi Pencil Mod

Also, reference on what I'm adding to the board.

Xigmatek PTR-CN881 Porter
THermalright HR-09 S Type 2

I'm slabbin them both with Arctic Cooling MX-2.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


HDTach Results: WD VelociRaptor 150GB x2 in RAID 0


Joe, holy moly those are some high numbers. One thing I don't understand...how is the burst speed exceeding the speed of the bus/controller?









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


That is a fancy good question. I would presume Linux is not checking disk integrity as it is formatting, that could explain the speed differential.


Blitz, my thoughts exactly. I don't think the Linux format checks the drives integrity. That is the obvious assumption just by judging how fast the drive does a "full" format.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


I think my MBR (not sure 100% what that is...) got messed up somewhere along the line of my moving my partition.


Nate, sounds like during the partitioning of the drives the MBR might of become corrupt/damaged? Just a thought. What did you use to make the new partitions? Have you tried rebuilding the MBR?

Good luck


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Nate, sounds like during the partitioning of the drives the MBR might of become corrupt/damaged? Just a thought. What did you use to make the new partitions? Have you tried rebuilding the MBR?

Good luck


Thats what I was thinking, but I'm not sure how to fix it.

I used GParted for everything, the I used Windows Recovery to run Chkdsk /r twice (because it wouldn't boot into windows so I couldn't run it /f). Then it still didn't work so I plugged it into my dad's rig as a slave and ran chkdsk /f. Still no go. I then used GParted to "check" and it still didn't work. Then I installed Vista on the second partition, assuming it would make a new bootloader, and still nothing.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


I used GParted for everything, the I used Windows Recovery to run Chkdsk /r twice (because it wouldn't boot into windows so I couldn't run it /f). Then it still didn't work so I plugged it into my dad's rig as a slave and ran chkdsk /f. Still no go. I then used GParted to "check" and it still didn't work. Then I installed Vista on the second partition, assuming it would make a new bootloader, and still nothing.


Nate, see the link above to the google search. You may have to rebuild the master boot record. Does anyone else have suggestions for Nate?


----------



## nategr8ns

still nada.
I used fixmbr. It seems that it knew that my MBR was damaged, but that may have just been what it always says.

I'll try bootcfg /rebuild soon if that would help.

(Thank god for live-linux CDs







)


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes, your MBR is corrupted. (I have done it myself.) You need to fix that to boot XP back.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Yes, your MBR is corrupted. (I have done it myself.) You need to fix that to boot XP back.

Well I did and it still didn't work.
What methods are there other than fixmbr?

I have to go to a wedding later tonight, so I'll be gone for another few hours...

And all this time I'm not folding







.


----------



## Blitz6804

You ran FIXMBR followed by FIXBOOT? Doing this will likely make the Vista install unaccessable, but one fix at a time...

EDIT:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
As for me, my second GPU just showed up







. Unfortunately I have to study for the next 6 hours :swearing: so I won't be able to post up any results for a while.

Congratulations; care to share what you did to help others who might have this problem in future? Also, good luck on the studying, I hope you kick the tests' butts!


----------



## nategr8ns

I could care less about the vista one. The install couldn't even finish because after setup copied the files to the HDD, it couldn't access those files because the computer couldn't boot from the HDD.
I'll run fixboot too (along with fixmbr again beforehand).

edit: it fixed something... I now get an error again (so the system is trying to boot off the HDD and failing, as opposed to failing at trying to boot off the HDD).
I'll restart to see the error again.


----------



## Blitz6804

It is a little late now, but in future, the Vista installer can resize any preexisting Windows partitions. My friend (a recent Linux convert) even tells me it is faster to resize a partition using Windows than it is using Linux. Strange.


----------



## nategr8ns

Thanks blitz.
BTW: The error is
"A Disk read error occurred
Press CTRL+ALT+DEL to restart"


----------



## Blitz6804

It is trying to boot to the wrong partition. Use gParted to delete the Vista partition and run FIXMBR/FIXBOOT again. Also double-check that the BIOS is loading to the hard drive with Windows on it and not another drive. After FIXMBR/FIXBOOT, also run CHKDSK /R /P.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Will do, I'll have to borrow my Mum's Digital, as mine currently has a dead battery.

Asus A8N32-SLi Pencil Mod

Also, reference on what I'm adding to the board. 

Xigmatek PTR-CN881 Porter
THermalright HR-09 S Type 2

I'm slabbin them both with Arctic Cooling MX-2.



O yeah I recall seeing that mod now. It's been a while since I read it (7-8 months). I was contemplating on doing that to my board but decided not to.

Those coolers look good, I saw that xigmatek before but was wondering how it actually fit with a GPU in place. The thermalright one seems to be offset considerably more than that. 
I am anxiously awaiting installed pics and temp results.

Well thats about it for my study break, time to read about the brain some more.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
O yeah I recall seeing that mod now. It's been a while since I read it (7-8 months). I was contemplating on doing that to my board but decided not to.

Those coolers look good, I saw that xigmatek before but was wondering how it actually fit with a GPU in place. The thermalright one seems to be offset considerably more than that.
I am anxiously awaiting installed pics and temp results.

Well thats about it for my study break, time to read about the brain some more.

I'll have to transfer the old setup back on to get temp results as I never measured before I put the Xiggy on.

It's actually offset "enough" to be just fine for the longer 9"-10.5" cards.

My HD2900Xt (9.5" long) has plenty of room on that board. (Asus 512bit GDDR4 version)


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
It is trying to boot to the wrong partition. Use gParted to delete the Vista partition and run FIXMBR/FIXBOOT again. Also double-check that the BIOS is loading to the hard drive with Windows on it and not another drive. After FIXMBR/FIXBOOT, also run CHKDSK /R /P.

Should I run all in one go, or should I check to see if it boots after FIXMBR/BOOT


----------



## Blitz6804

Do it all in one sitting.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Some more HDTach figures:

Darth Ominous (my other gaming rig, which will be moved to my parents' house imminently) has two WD5000AAKS 500GB HDDs in JBOD.

Here is the primary HDD:









And here is the secondary HDD:


----------



## Hueristic

OK! I'm all caught up now no-one post till I wake up and do a hundred Muti-Quotes!









BTW, B.O. How did you get the card to get recognized??? that is weird stuff there!


----------



## thlnk3r

Joe, that AAKS drive puts out some nice avg and burst read results. Thanks for posting the screen shots


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


BTW, B.O. How did you get the card to get recognized??? that is weird stuff there!


 Which one? I've got so many rigs going now







.

I bought another 4870, so I'm going to pull the folding equipment off of my CFX3200 (has 2x 768 GSO's ATM), and revert to using that as my main rig again with 2 4870's







. 
As for the other Ultra-D's, I haven't fiddled with them in about a week. I got so fed up with them, and my CFX folding rig locking up (after installing SP3 and SMP client) that I've stopped folding for the time being. Not to mention I've been super busy studying for school (crammed 2 days worth of studies in to my head in 7 hours today







), but I'm planning on doing the liquid copper mod on to the SLI jumper on one of my ultra-D's, to be sure it works. i'm sure once it does then I'll have no more issues with the board recognizing both cards. And I've even managed to figure out a cooling solution for the GPU's by mix matching them. At any rate, hopefully by the end of the weekend I'll have everything worked out. That is if I don't fry my cerebrum first.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
As for me, my second GPU just showed up







.

Hueristic and I read this as you got the Ultra-D to finally show the second card; we did not realize you were purchasing a second HD 4870.

I am really starting to wonder about your Ultra-Ds; if you have XP, can you try installing GeForce 68 or older? This is back when SLI used to work natively on an Ultra-D.


----------



## nategr8ns

Joe, do you happen to know if the 640 AAKS drives faster than the 500s? I want to get one for a media center PC but I can't decide if it will be too slow for "instant gratification."

Update: Still no go on the windows partition. I'm going to start looking through all my folders for stuff I want to save and then wipe it clean.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Joe, do you happen to know if the 640 AAKS drives faster than the 500s? I want to get one for a media center PC but I can't decide if it will be too slow for "instant gratification."

Update: Still no go on the windows partition. I'm going to start looking through all my folders for stuff I want to save and then wipe it clean.


I believe the WD6400AAKS HDDs are a little faster than the WD5000AAKS drives because of the increased areal densities of the platters. On the WD64000AAKS, you have two 320GB platters, while the WD5000AAKS has two 250GB platters.

I doubt that these differences would be perceptible at the "keyboard level," though. For something like a media center PC, I'd err on the side of capacity (I'd get the biggest HDD I can afford, as media files of any type tend to be large).


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Update: Still no go on the windows partition. I'm going to start looking through all my folders for stuff I want to save and then wipe it clean.


Nate, either start a thread (I've got too much to do in this one) or pm me with the exact problem and I can walk you through your partition repair.

Will check back l8r have company comeing over (Another Folder!!!) so I should get out of my bathrobe


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Joe, do you happen to know if the 640 AAKS drives faster than the 500s? I want to get one for a media center PC but I can't decide if it will be too slow for "instant gratification."

Update: Still no go on the windows partition. I'm going to start looking through all my folders for stuff I want to save and then wipe it clean.


The 640AAKS drives are faster than the 500gb AAKS drives.

By a good margin, but the benefit is really only felt when put into a RAID 0 setup, or when doing large transfers.


----------



## nategr8ns

Got it, thanks







. I think I'll go with a 640AAKS or maybe a 1TB drive. I'll try to buy used from OCNers if possible too.

So I just reformatted to end the troubles, but I can't get my LAN drivers working in Vista! The Nvidia thing installs it, but then vista says "there was a problem installing the drivers... the device was removed" or something like that. I definitely didn't unplug my onboard LAN adapter...


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Got it, thanks







. I think I'll go with a 640AAKS or maybe a 1TB drive. I'll try to buy used from OCNers if possible too.

So I just reformatted to end the troubles, but I can't get my LAN drivers working in *Vista*! The Nvidia thing installs it, but then vista says "there was a problem installing the drivers... the device was removed" or something like that. I definitely didn't unplug my onboard LAN adapter...


I see your problem and have highlighted it for you!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


I can't get my LAN drivers working in Vista! The Nvidia thing installs it, but then vista says "there was a problem installing the drivers... the device was removed" or something like that. I definitely didn't unplug my onboard LAN adapter...


Nate, it sounds like you're not installing the correct ethernet drivers. Did you download the nForce drivers from the DFI website or directly from nvidia?

Good luck


----------



## nategr8ns

They're the ones on the DFI Driver disk. Not sure if they are working with Vista though...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


I see your problem and have highlighted it for you!

















I know, I know







. I'm trying to move on. I really like XP, but I feel like there's not much to lose with Vista [except driver support







].

So I still can't get any LAN in vista. What gives!
I need help with linux though. In Firefox, I can't change the download directory to my hard drive because only the Live CD shows up under drives. The "highest" up I can go is "File System," but only the CD drive shows up in there. I can't access my hard drive to download new drivers...

The drives show up in Kongueror (like explorer) under system:/media/SDA1 and /SDA2 and /SDA3, but I can't get to system:/media from the Firefox file-browsing thing.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


So I still can't get any LAN in vista. What gives!


Nate, do you have access to another computer that will allow you to save the drivers to a USB thumb drive? You can download the Nvidia drivers by going here: http://www.nvidia.com/object/nforce_vista_15.23.html.

Let us know

Good luck


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


I need help with linux though. In Firefox, I can't change the download directory to my hard drive because only the Live CD shows up under drives. The "highest" up I can go is "File System," but only the CD drive shows up in there. I can't access my hard drive to download new drivers...

The drives show up in Kongueror (like explorer) under system:/media/SDA1 and /SDA2 and /SDA3, but I can't get to system:/media from the Firefox file-browsing thing.


Nate, it sounds like your drive hasn't been configured with a partition yet. I usually run into this with my Windows Minipe CD when I'm imaging machines. Doesn't the live cd have gparted?

Good luck


----------



## nategr8ns

Yes it does have GParted. How do I use that to download to my hard drives?









It definitely has a partition. I made it and formatted it with GParted, and then I installed vista on it fine. I can mount the disks fine with Linux and copy files on, which I can then access from Vista. The problem is that the drives only show up when I use the Konqueror file browser, not when I use the generic one that applications (like firefox) use.

edit: if I install XP on a second partition on the same disk, how easy would it be to set it up to dual boot XP/Vista?

Right now, I have three partitions on the disk: 20g, 30g, 110g. Vista is on the 20g and I'm thinking of installing XP on the 30g one (it was supposed to be the other way around, but too late now).


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
It definitely has a partition. I made it and formatted it with GParted, and then I installed vista on it fine. I can mount the disks fine with Linux and copy files on, which I can then access from Vista. The problem is that the drives only show up when I use the Konqueror file browser, not when I use the generic one that applications (like firefox) use.

Nategr8ns, the only thing that comes to mind is the software may be having troubles seeing the sata controller. Anyone else have suggestions for nate?


----------



## N2Gaming

You could just install Vista on one drive and XP on another. Then do your bios HDD selection at start up so that you can choose what drive to boot to. You will save your self a big head ache and you won't have to worry about you MBR for both OS's. If you have any problems w/you MBR again then you will still have the other os HDD to fall back on while you do research the fis the MBR. Just my









N2G


----------



## nategr8ns

Another "Win" for XP (my current OS







). Drivers worked. I guess Vista was just messed up or something.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Nategr8ns, the only thing that comes to mind is the software may be having troubles seeing the sata controller. Anyone else have suggestions for nate?










It's IDE







. Not sure about it though.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


yeah install vist on one drive and XP on another. Then do your bios HDD selection at start up so that you can choose what drive to boot to. You will save your self a big head ache and you won't have to worry about you MBR for both OS's. If you have any problems w/you MBR again then you will still have the other os HDD to fall back on while you do research the fis the MBR. Just my









N2G


Good idea, but too late. Plus, my only other drive is almost full (~20% full) and if I screw that one up trying to shrink the partition, I'm going to be "eff"ed.
Now I just need to edit my boot.ini to give me the option to boot from Vista again.

Installing graphics drivers right now, be right back.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Hueristic and I read this as you got the Ultra-D to finally show the second card; we did not realize you were purchasing a second HD 4870.

I am really starting to wonder about your Ultra-Ds; if you have XP, can you try installing GeForce 68 or older? This is back when SLI used to work natively on an Ultra-D.


 O sorry I wasn't too clear about that. Yeah I found the same 4870 XXX on TD, with matching part # (they have a new one with a new part #), for more than $100 cheaper than I bought it for when it first came out.









As for installing GeForce 68, do you mean 6800's or the nforce 4 driver? If you're talking about the GPUs, I have already tried with my 6800's and got the same result. The 6800's use the same driver as a the GSO and even the GTX295.
If its the chipset driver then, no I haven't tried it. 
I do recall that nvidia disabled ultra-sli through their drivers also. I'm not positive if DFI did it with their BIOSes or not, but I believe mine to be the original since I actually have an SLI aperture setting in there. I read some articles about the ultra-d and noticed in some pics of the BIOS that this setting was gone. They were newer boards, both of my boards are older because they don't have any epoxy resin over the pins.


----------



## Blitz6804

The driver disc will likely only work with XP. Often you can use a Win7 or Vista driver interchangeably, but you can only rarely force an XP driver onto a 32-bit Vista install.


----------



## Hueristic

Hi guys, need help on a vmware issue. here is post.

http://www.overclock.net/operating-s...ml#post6518744


----------



## Iceman0803

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Hi guys, need help on a vmware issue. here is post.

http://www.overclock.net/operating-s...ml#post6518744

Do you have fast user switching enabled?? If so try disabling it (via Services.msc ). The only info I could find (via the url in your quote in the original thread and some Chinese language web page) alluded to fast user switching possibly being the culprit. Hope this helps


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Iceman0803*


Do you have fast user switching enabled?? If so try disabling it (via Services.msc ). The only info I could find (via the url in your quote in the original thread and some Chinese language web page) alluded to fast user switching possibly being the culprit. Hope this helps










THX man, yeas first thing my google fu came up with. Also my problem is I have skipped vista so win7 is an even worse learning curve and like a moron i decide to do it under the gun dureing a foldathon









Actually the system is one my nephew uses when he's over and he wanted win7 (dumb kids







)

Thx again for the research +rep (also you will see in my thread this is the first thing I tried







)

OK guys I know I'm way to far behind in this thread but I have to get these machines squared away (and I just got a cpu upgrade for my htpc folder in the mail : Don't worry I'm not touching it till these other 2 are squared away!







)

So I will be scarce again but If I can be of assistance PM me.


----------



## Hueristic

Still swamped but got to the dentist today finally! I needs some serious work! LOL

Sorry bout the double POST but I need to Make a Big Thank You To the anonymous Donor!

The parts arrived a few days back and As y'all can see I've been trying to get the lapped 3800X2 folding. 
Also in the [email protected] care package was:
5 os so DDR sticks from 256-512mb(with the ones I got sitting around they make up some great pairs!)
8 mil fan (perfect for the PS mod I'm doing)
Heatshrink(again perfect for the PS mod I'm doing)
Ps sleeving (and again perfect timing for the PS mod)
Prolimatech Thermal compound
various adapters (great idea using them for packing material!)








2 led toggle switches








molex kit
dummy plug resistors 100 ohm
Vibration dampeners (never used them befor:have to think of where they'll go)
Chromerics T412 Thermatech Tape
*AND another totally unexpected surprise!*
2 Corsair CMX512-3200C2pt 512mb DDR Platinum's!!! (I'm gonna be greedy on these and put them into my opty rig!
















ONCE again, *THANK YOU Anon Donor!!!*

I think I need to pci-e1x mod my asrock dual sataII now and move the 2 Gs's onto it from the crappy system one's been living in and my HTPC (which I'll put the 7950gtX2 in: man I wish it could fold)


----------



## BlackOmega

Right on Hue. Sounds like a pretty good folding package.I too need to get my ass to the dentist. Come to find out I grind my teeth when I sleep. I guess I get pissed off during my dreams, LOL!
Did the folding package come with a board as well?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Right on Hue. Sounds like a pretty good folding package.I too need to get my ass to the dentist. Come to find out I grind my teeth when I sleep. I guess I get pissed off during my dreams, LOL!
Did the folding package come with a board as well?


I didn't need one.









And if you did like me and ate handfuls of Meds you wouldn't grind your teeth!















But you might wake up covered in drool!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


I didn't need one.









And if you did like me and ate handfuls of Meds you wouldn't grind your teeth!















But you might wake up covered in drool!


 LOL!









I'm actually against meds in general (unless they're absolutely necessary). The dentist suggested a small unobtrusive mouth guard, but I can't use that as well. I'm screwed. :swearing:


----------



## N2Gaming

Right on Hueristic, I'm glad to see that you " a dedicated folder " got some needed parts for your foling endevours. GJ .


----------



## thlnk3r

Hueristic, congrats on the new parts. I hope the FAH goes well. Did you ever get that virtual machine up?

EDIT: I guess I should look at your thread huh









Speaking of the Dentist, I just got my appointment reminder this week!


----------



## N2Gaming

I don't even want to think about the dentist atm. They cost to much evey time I have to go. I swear it's like they do work the work on your teath like they build new cars. They don't intend for the work to last just like they don't expect the new cars to last much past the warranty periods.


----------



## jimwest

My good old 939 cpu finally gave out. I just ordered a Phenom setup, I'm excited...but also very annoyed. Gonna miss that little thing. Time to post my stuff on craigslist.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jimwest* 
My good old 939 cpu finally gave out. I just ordered a Phenom setup, I'm excited...but also very annoyed. Gonna miss that little thing. Time to post my stuff on craigslist.

Jimwest, sorry to hear that. Glad to hear though you were able to upgrade to the new Phenom equipment. Did you pick up a Phenom I or II? Make sure to start a new thread with your overclocking results. I look forward to seeing them. A few weeks ago I started saving for a PhII 550BE hehe









Good luck


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jimwest* 
My good old 939 cpu finally gave out. I just ordered a Phenom setup, I'm excited...but also very annoyed. Gonna miss that little thing. Time to post my stuff on craigslist.

Did your EVGA Mobo die? If not, I might be interested in it.


----------



## Blitz6804

Interesting tidbit... for those of us using 100 posts per page, we are presently on page 1800 MHz Dual-Core Opteron.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jimwest* 
My good old 939 cpu finally gave out. I just ordered a Phenom setup, I'm excited...but also very annoyed. Gonna miss that little thing. Time to post my stuff on craigslist.

Just curious, what happened to it? And how was that Patriot RAM for OCing?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


LOL!









I'm actually against meds in general (unless they're absolutely necessary). The dentist suggested a small unobtrusive mouth guard, but I can't use that as well. I'm screwed. :swearing:


Believe it or not I agree with you, I actually hate the meds but without them I literally would not be here talking to you.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Right on Hueristic, I'm glad to see that you " a dedicated folder " got some needed parts for your foling endevours. GJ .










THX Br0! I'm glad to see YOU in the FOLD!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Hueristic, congrats on the new parts. I hope the FAH goes well. Did you ever get that virtual machine up?

EDIT: *I guess I should look at your thread huh*









Speaking of the Dentist, I just got my appointment reminder this week!


























I have had issues and still don't have the first wu done yet! 50% or so right now.









As soon as that's done Win 7 dies!!!! I'll put XP32SP3 (my tried and true stripped down version) and try the VMware again. Then I'll dual boot it with Linux (HEAR that Blitzy! I'm gonna be bothering you!) and do a ppd comparison. Depending on the outcome of that I will decide if that system gets the 2GS's or my HTPC.

Speaking of my HTPC I just got a 775(e6300) w/h silent 775D(WAHT A PITA to mount!) from another Awesome folder (He went to a q6600) and got the board mounted on my torture Tech station today. I had to finish up on the stretch mechanism first. My neighbor is supposed to call me when he wakes up so I can pop up some pics for you guys.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I don't even want to think about the dentist atm. They cost to much evey time I have to go. I swear it's like they do work the work on your teath like they build new cars. They don't intend for the work to last just like they don't expect the new cars to last much past the warranty periods.










I gotta agree with you on this one man! I got into an argument because She wants to pull a tooth that broke and I think It should just be filled till it causes issues. [email protected]#[email protected]#$ She says If I don't get it pulled she refuses to fill it, I said I can get a tooth pulled at any time but you can't put one back in!







So she says she will let it rot rather than fill it! Sounds like malpractice to me!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *jimwest*


My good old 939 cpu finally gave out. I just ordered a Phenom setup, I'm excited...but also very annoyed. Gonna miss that little thing. Time to post my stuff on craigslist.



















Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Jimwest, sorry to hear that. Glad to hear though you were able to upgrade to the new Phenom equipment. Did you pick up a Phenom I or II? Make sure to start a new thread with your overclocking results. I look forward to seeing them. A few weeks ago I started saving for a PhII 550BE hehe









Good luck


X2







and when you do drop a link in here so We can sub!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Interesting tidbit... for those of us using 100 posts per page, we are presently on page 1800 MHz Dual-Core Opteron.


That would be my 165! but it's currently at 2500 so we got a ways to go for that!







Can't wait to get a decent cooler on it (With heatpipes) To see what I can really do with it. Who says Tyan Tigers don't OC!

*EDIT: Just remebered I still have a txt file with a ton of quotes I haven't got to!







I swear keeping up with this thread is tougher than working!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Believe it or not I agree with you, I actually hate the meds but without them I literally would not be here talking to you.


 Well then that falls under the absolutely necessary part







.

And I can't believe it! I won the Saitek Cyborg joystick from the foldathon WOOHOO!

Come to think of it, I don't think I've ever used any of the game or parallel ports on any of my rigs. LOL! I wonder I still have em.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


And I can't believe it! I won the Saitek Cyborg joystick from the foldathon WOOHOO!


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


And I can't believe it! I won the Saitek Cyborg joystick from the foldathon WOOHOO!


What? A joystick?! Now you can play Star Wars: TIE Fighter properly!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


What? A joystick?! Now you can play Star Wars: TIE Fighter properly!










 LOL @ release date 1994







I bet I wouldn't even need any gpus installed to run that. lol

I might have to get HAWX now


----------



## Blitz6804

I am ready for your Hueristic! I am in fact just about to reinstall Linux on my rig. (Now that I had some playtime with Windows7, I see no reason why not to format the drive to EXT3 and get to Linwork.)

Never forget BlackOmega: Old =/= Fail. In my opinion, Age of Empires II (1999) is far superior to Age of Empires III (2005). Heck, even Age of Empires I (1997) beats the stuffing out of it.

Hothbase: Play Rebel Assault lately? I have...


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Heck, even Age of Empires I (1997) beats the stuffing out of it.































"I need a Monk!"


----------



## Blitz6804

Hey... nice towel!

(For those lost... "I need a monk" is an audio chat from AoE II; "Hey... nice towel!" is from AoE I.)


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Hey... nice towel!

(For those lost... "I need a monk" is an audio chat from AoE II; "Hey... nice towel!" is from AoE I.)


Our lan group changed all the audio on this guys game when he went for smokes. We recorded alot of less than flattering things for all his clicks, He laughed so hard he left them. LOL I'd tell you what they were but writeing them would be against the TOS.


----------



## Blitz6804

You can shoot me an email if you want; I gotta hear some of these.

I used to have copies of all the AoE I taunts in all our PCs (my dad's, sisters', and mine) such that we could use either batch. I recently have gotten DesertRat into the game... perhaps we should do a battle royale of some flavor if you still play Hueristic?

For everyone else: a box set of Age of Empires (comes with Age of Empires I and its expansion, Age of Empires I: The Rise of Rome as well as Age of Empires II: The Age of Kings and its expansion, Age of Empires II: The Conquerors) for about $10 on Amazon. Age of Mythology is also good (but more expensive), Empire Earth I and II were both interesting (in concept and scope), but they are not very good at all, and Age of Empires III is decent, but no-where as good as AoE II. I will gladly host any/all of those for game nights. (While some are FPS gamers, I am very much a 4X / RTS gamer; I prefer 4X, but RTS is more prevalent and multi-player friendly.)


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I am ready for your Hueristic! I am in fact just about to reinstall Linux on my rig. (Now that I had some playtime with Windows7, I see no reason why not to format the drive to EXT3 and get to Linwork.)


You should use EXT4 Blitz. It's a huge improvement over EXT3, more so than EXT2 to EXT3.


----------



## Blitz6804

I did not see EXT4 last time I was in gParted; if it is there, I will use it. Else, I will use EXT3.


----------



## BlackOmega

I'm not one for RTS games. I've tried but lose interest rather quickly. I love my FPS's







I've played FPS's since.......quake 1.

And for sure Blitz old doesn't mean theyre bad games. I still love quake 3, probably the best quake that ever was. Better than quake live, which is kind of a gimped version of Q3. And hell one of the oldest games ever, CS, is still played by thousands upon thousands of people.

EDIT: I'm going to be SLI modding one of my Ultra-D's here in a minute. Unfortunately my wife took the camera with her :swearing:. If I can find my Flip I'll record a little video







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I can't believe it! I won the Saitek Cyborg joystick from the foldathon WOOHOO!

Come to think of it, I don't think I've ever used any of the game or parallel ports on any of my rigs. LOL! I wonder I still have em.









You should like that joy stick. I have that stick. I got it for BF2 so that I could fly the Heli's and jets. So much easier for me then trying to do it w/keyboard and mouse. We passed the Russians in the fold-a-thon but did not get the 8mil that Val was hoping for.


----------



## Blitz6804

This seems like a good time to remind everyone about the Socket 939 party. Do not forget, there is a party at my place for all club members on September 3rd, 2009. That is now less than three months away! Get your tickets into Buffalo Niagara International Airport while they are still cheap!


----------



## BlackOmega

Well I found my flip, but the thing is such a piece of :turd: that it was super blurry. Anyway, so I soldered the 2 pins, but I'm not sure if it worked (it had good continuity). For testing purposes I put my 6800's in. I moved all the jumpers to the SLI position and hooked up the bridge. 
Everything seemed to be going great, went into bios no problem. Checked the PCIe 8x NC 8x., so far so good. I see the windows boot up screen, then the screen goes black. The computers not locked up, it actually went to the desktop as I was able to use the task manager to shut it down (yes I can do that blind). I pull the SLI bridge off and it gets into windows. Gets to the desktop just fine. I check hardware manager and both the GPU's show up. 
I run CPUZ and validate. Heres the validation. 
In the mainboard description it DFI LP NF4 series. If SLI inded did work would it say NF4 SLI series?

What do you guys think?


----------



## N2Gaming

BO, Did you forget to put the sli jumpers in the sli position? Sli position would be the lower two sets of pins furthest from the cpu.


----------



## Blitz6804

Based on the validation, we cannot say if it worked. Both the DFI LanParty SLI-DR (not expert) and Ultra-D show up as "NF4 Series." Have another SLI bridge to try though?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


BO, Did you forget to put the sli jumpers in the sli position? Sli position would be the lower two sets of pins furthest from the cpu.



Nope they're in the SLI position.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Based on the validation, we cannot say if it worked. Both the DFI LanParty SLI-DR (not expert) and Ultra-D show up as "NF4 Series." Have another SLI bridge to try though?


 I wish I did. This is the bridge that came with the board, and since its an ultra-D I doubt it was ever used.

I'm sort of assuming that it did work because both of the GPU's showed up. Which is all I technically wanted. But I would like to see if the SLI at least works. And if my first "hard" mod was a success.


----------



## Blitz6804

True, in order to fold, SLI must be disabled anyway. Have you tried plugging the monitor into the other card with the SLI bridge attached? Maybe you switched the primary and secondary position accidentally. (On my Abit AT8-32x, the primary card was the bottom one.)


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


You can shoot me an email if you want; I gotta hear some of these.

I used to have copies of all the AoE I taunts in all our PCs (my dad's, sisters', and mine) such that we could use either batch. I recently have gotten DesertRat into the game... perhaps we should do a battle royale of some flavor if you still play Hueristic?

For everyone else: a box set of Age of Empires (comes with Age of Empires I and its expansion, Age of Empires I: The Rise of Rome as well as Age of Empires II: The Age of Kings and its expansion, Age of Empires II: The Conquerors) for about $10 on Amazon. Age of Mythology is also good (but more expensive), Empire Earth I and II were both interesting (in concept and scope), but they are not very good at all, and Age of Empires III is decent, but no-where as good as AoE II. I will gladly host any/all of those for game nights. (While some are FPS gamers, I am very much a 4X / RTS gamer; I prefer 4X, but RTS is more prevalent and multi-player friendly.)


4X is my world! I was champion in Origins 90 on RFTS.







Love to play some night. I get irritated with rts and fps easily now though, When the adrenaline gets pumping my back tightens up which causes a cascade effect that sends me into a spiral into pain my meds can't fix.







I have the same issue programming now or anything else that takes too much concentration.









But I can play RTS if the speed is set slow. Man I used to rule at Starcraft/Broodwar and now I can barely play that on slow.

AFA Sept, I spoke to Nate and He may drive there. If he does he said he would grab me alone the way so You can put me down as tentative.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I'm not one for RTS games. I've tried but lose interest rather quickly. I love my FPS's







I've played FPS's since.......quake 1.

And for sure Blitz old doesn't mean theyre bad games. I still love quake 3, probably the best quake that ever was. Better than quake live, which is kind of a gimped version of Q3. And hell one of the oldest games ever, CS, is still played by thousands upon thousands of people.

EDIT: I'm going to be SLI modding one of my Ultra-D's here in a minute. Unfortunately my wife took the camera with her :swearing:. If I can find my Flip I'll record a little video







.


Yeah Quake 1 was unbelievable! I loved Q2 also but Q3 was nothing but eye candy and no substance and Q4 I had vid issues and never got back to it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well I found my flip, but the thing is such a piece of :turd: that it was super blurry. Anyway, so I soldered the 2 pins, but I'm not sure if it worked (it had good continuity). For testing purposes I put my 6800's in. I moved all the jumpers to the SLI position and hooked up the bridge. 
Everything seemed to be going great, went into bios no problem. Checked the PCIe 8x NC 8x., so far so good. I see the windows boot up screen, then the screen goes black. The computers not locked up, it actually went to the desktop as I was able to use the task manager to shut it down (yes I can do that blind). I pull the SLI bridge off and it gets into windows. Gets to the desktop just fine. I check hardware manager and both the GPU's show up. 
I run CPUZ and validate. Heres the validation. 
In the mainboard description it DFI LP NF4 series. If SLI inded did work would it say NF4 SLI series?

What do you guys think?


I'm thinking driver issue, I'd system backup and then remove your pci bridge and redetect everything with the sli enabled.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
True, in order to fold, SLI must be disabled anyway. Have you tried plugging the monitor into the other card with the SLI bridge attached? Maybe you switched the primary and secondary position accidentally. (On my Abit AT8-32x, the primary card was the bottom one.)

I'll give that a shot, couldn't hurt anyway.

I did notice that my chipset temps are higher than normal, 49*C, where as before it was around 45*C

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 

Yeah Quake 1 was unbelievable! I loved Q2 also but Q3 was nothing but eye candy and no substance and Q4 I had vid issues and never got back to it.

Quake 4 was ok, the story line was actually pretty good. I actually finished the whole game. While it did have multiplayer, it wasn't nearly as good as Q2/3. So not many people played. It was too dark and the maps were really small and crappy.
My favs were Q2 & 3, while I agree that Q3 had a lot more eye candy than Q2, Q2 had a much stronger following and there were tons of maps and mods.
I'd think Q3 was the most refined out of them. But it was definitely more Arena based than Q2 which although was deathmatch style the maps were A LOT better.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
I'm thinking driver issue, I'd system backup and then remove your pci bridge and redetect everything with the sli enabled.

Well the thing is, the 6800's use the exact same driver as 9600GSO's.And the NF4 driver is the same as well so I don't see where the conflict might be.

I suppose I could just swap the GSO's back in now that I know everything is ok.


----------



## Blitz6804

That is to be expected, the chipset is doing more now. What TIM are you using? Something non-metallic I hope?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
That is to be expected, the chipset is doing more now. What TIM are you using? Something non-metallic I hope?

OCZ freeze.

GOOD NEWS!!!!!!!!!! IT WORKS!!!!!!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Well, I'll be an uncle's monkey.

Good work, BlackOmega (calling you B.O. just doesn't work for me







)! To be honest, I'm amazed you were able to make the SLI mod on the Ultra D work!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Well, I'll be an uncle's monkey.

Good work, BlackOmega (calling you B.O. just doesn't work for me







)! To be honest, I'm amazed you were able to make the SLI mod on the Ultra D work!









You can call me Omega if you like







.

After reading all the older stuff I was somewhat worried that it wouldn't work, but after I researched the drivers and found all of the NF4 drivers had been consolidated, I knew it wasn't going to be a driver issue. The only thing had me slightly worried was if DFI had done anything to the BIOS to disable it that way.

I was just looking at my GPUz screen shot, is it just me or does it say that my memory is doubled when using these cards.


----------



## Blitz6804

What finally fixed it?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


What finally fixed it?


 Maybe just the reboot? I also flipped the SLI bridge around.

I tried using the lower card initially, but it didn't do anything. I plug it in to the top card and on comes the screen with windows desktop. 
I check nvida console, enable sli shows up


----------



## Blitz6804

Coulda been the reboot. When I tried HD 3850 crossfire, I had to reboot like five times before it finally let me enable. I did not think bridges were unidirectional.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Coulda been the reboot. When I tried HD 3850 crossfire, I had to reboot like five times before it finally let me enable. I did not think bridges were unidirectional.



Yeah, I guess on my A8N32 I did have to reboot a couple times to get the cards to show up.

AFAIK, the bridges aren't unidirectional. I was thinking that maybe because it has never been used, and its like 3.5 years old, maybe there was some dust or possibly corrosion in there.
Maybe putting it on and taking it off removed it exposing nice clean metal and made a better connection.


----------



## Blitz6804

That is not only highly possible, but the most likely scenario.


----------



## N2Gaming

Omega, I for one would like to say sorry if I ever offended you by quoting you w/BO. Now w/that out of the way I think you prolly were using the wrong video for your primary display. I think the upper pcie x16 slot is for the primary video card and if you had your monitor pluged into the lower pcie x16 slot as stated then I would be willing to bet that was the whole problem. In sli mode only one card will display video if I remember correctly and it would have to be the primary card. I'm not sure if you have the option in the bios to choose your primary card but I do remember using the top slot as the primary video slot. Your chipset could and would get a little hotter because you now have a video card mounted directly over the chipset fan. Any way good job getting it going. Do you know if you have the older revision mobo or do you have a newer one? I know dumb question but I just had to ask.


----------



## jimwest

The RAM was great, I loved it. The motherboard should be working since I've been using the onboard switches. Its debug LED works, but I forgot all the codes. If you guys are interested, just give me a PM.

I should be getting my AMD Phenom 9950 BE, Biostar 790GX and 4x2 OCZ PC6400 RAM. Just received my OCZ Vendetta cooler, gotta wait until Monday for the rest. I'll get some pics up for you guys when I'm done.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Omega, I for one would like to say sorry if I ever offended you by quoting you w/BO. Now w/that out of the way I think you prolly were using the wrong video for your primary display. I think the upper pcie x16 slot is for the primary video card and if you had your monitor pluged into the lower pcie x16 slot as stated then I would be willing to bet that was the whole problem. In sli mode only one card will display video if I remember correctly and it would have to be the primary card. I'm not sure if you have the option in the bios to choose your primary card but I do remember using the top slot as the primary video slot. Your chipset could and would get a little hotter because you now have a video card mounted directly over the chipset fan. Any way good job getting it going. Do you know if you have the older revision mobo or do you have a newer one? I know dumb question but I just had to ask.

I don't take offense to it at all. So no worries there









Initially I had it plugged in to the top GPU. I only tried plugging it in to the bottom by suggestion from blitz as he had a board that used the lower GPU slot as the primary.
And you're correct, with SLI only the primary GPU will broadcast an image.
I don't recall seeing a setting for which slot is the primary on the Ultra-D's. My CFX3200-DR on the other hand has that option.

As for the revisions, I believe both of my Ultra-D's are older revision boards with their original BIOSes. Neither of the boards have the epoxy over the pins on the NB, and there is an option in the BIOS called SLI BROADCAST APERTURE. I believe that option was removed in the later revisions.

As for the NB, I'm kind of concerned because my 6800 barely covers the heat sink. When I put my GSO on it I think I might run into problems as that card is double wide and covers considerably more of the fan. I might have to seek an alternate cooling solution for it.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I don't take offense to it at all.

As for the revisions, I believe both of my Ultra-D's are older revision there is an option in the BIOS called SLI BROADCAST APERTURE. I believe that option was removed in the later revisions.

As for the NB, I'm kind of concerned because my 6800 barely covers the heat sink. When I put my GSO on it I think I might run into problems as that card is double wide and covers considerably more of the fan. I might have to seek an alternate cooling solution for it.

Thanks I don't like not know if people are offended or not when it comes to things like that. Any way I'm sure you would have pm'd me by now if that was the case.

EDIT: Mayby you can save the bios file, then see if some one w/the newer revision can get it to work on the newer ultra D board with your older bios.

Oh and I was looking at my DFI SLI DR and SLI DR Expert boards today and realized one more improvement they maid on the expert boards. the chipset fan is not directly under the video card so you can put a H2O block on the nb and not have the primary video card be in the way or vise versa.







I think I'm gonna try to practice my H2O set up w/the 8800GTS watercooled cards that I should be getting by tomorrow.







on the expert mobo. I mean if any thing is gonna go wrong w/my water cooling it might as well be on a mobo that is half dead any way right.









Edit: that reminds me, I still need a cheap cpu to test the venus for cold boot issues.


----------



## Hueristic

*NICE Job B.O.!* (I'm gonna keep using that as long as it don't bother you), Actually never thougth it would. I call GaurdianOdin G.O. as well Blitz6804 Blitz, Blitzy TM?Joe, Joe (too lazy to scroll back again to get correct spelling







Man I shorten everone's handle!

You guys can call me Huer or ***** I don't care as long as it ain't heuristic!









But if Anyone ever doesn't like what I refer to them as reilize there's no insult intended and speak up and I won't do it again.

Do a search on heuristic and you'll see me correcting tons of peops!


----------



## Blitz6804

To Hueristic, our esteemed master of heuristic: The only problem with "BO" is that people might confuse him with the 44th President, which given his political view (something we shant get into here; read the OCN ToS) may or may not be a good thing. I am the other end of the spectrum Hueristic; I always write out the full names. For the record, it is txtmstrjoe. Type "text master joe," but forget all vowels but the "o" and imagine you have no thumbs for the space bar. The thing that annoys me is that shortly after joining, OCN decided to decapitalize my B, and a few of the mods said they cannot change my name unless "blitz" is offensive or my real name. *Goes down to the Erie County Clerk's office...*


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
To Hueristic, our esteemed master of heuristic: The only problem with "BO" is that people might confuse him with the 44th President, which given his political view (something we shant get into here; read the OCN ToS) may or may not be a good thing. I am the other end of the spectrum Hueristic; I always write out the full names. For the record, it is txtmstrjoe. Type "text master joe," but forget all vowels but the "o" and imagine you have no thumbs for the space bar. The thing that annoys me is that shortly after joining, OCN decided to decapitalize my B, and a few of the mods said they cannot change my name unless "blitz" is offensive or my real name. *Goes down to the Erie County Clerk's office...*












































THX Br0 that was informative as well as hilarious!

BO signs his reps "BO" so I doubt it bothers him.









Wierd the decapitalized your name? that is strange. Does it bother you when I call you Blitz or Blitzy? It's a term of endearment actually. I add "Y" to all my freinds (Guess I held onto that since childhood). Or maybe I just never grew up!






















Hmmm, come to think of it I find the "B" lower cased offensive! I think it should be reported! :devilsmi:


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Hothbase: Play Rebel Assault lately? I have...

Haven't played it in a very long time, it was back on Win NT 4.0







I don't think I got it working on XP, maybe I didn't try hard enough. I own The LucasArts Archives Vol. II: The Star Wars Collection so I have both RA I & II.

And yeah, no proper LAN without AoE II.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


*NICE Job B.O.!* (I'm gonna keep using that as long as it don't bother you), Actually never thougth it would. )


 Nope doesn't bother me at all. I shorten peoples names all the time because well.. I'm lazy









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


To Hueristic, our esteemed master of heuristic: The only problem with "BO" is that people might confuse him with the 44th President, which given his political view (something we shant get into here; read the OCN ToS) may or may not be a good thing. I am the other end of the spectrum Hueristic; I always write out the full names. For the record, it is txtmstrjoe. Type "text master joe," but forget all vowels but the "o" and imagine you have no thumbs for the space bar. The thing that annoys me is that shortly after joining, OCN decided to decapitalize my B, and a few of the mods said they cannot change my name unless "blitz" is offensive or my real name. *Goes down to the Erie County Clerk's office...*


 That wouldn't be a bad person to be mistaken for







. (Believe me I've been mistaken for a lot worse). Although I'd add a little of the G.W. not caring about what others think of his policies and force them through.









And that is odd that they decapitated your B.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I think my favorite S939 nickname is still thlnk3r's *thlnk3rbell*. I wish I could say I invented that, but alas, I can't. An old common friend of ours thought that one up.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I think my favorite S939 nickname is still thlnk3r's *thlnk3rbell*. I wish I could say I invented that, but alas, I can't. An old common friend of ours thought that one up.


















th|nk3rb3ll


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah; I personally like to call him Thlnkl3 when he's not around...

Personally, I dislike the "y" form tacked on the end of a name; my friend does it all the time with my real name and I rage quit.


----------



## Tator Tot

Hey guys, real quick question, nForce 4 Ultra is the Non-SLi chipset correct?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Hey guys, real quick question, nForce 4 Ultra is the Non-SLi chipset correct?


Correct.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Correct.


Thanks Joe.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I think my favorite S939 nickname is still thlnk3r's *thlnk3rbell*. I wish I could say I invented that, but alas, I can't. An old common friend of ours thought that one up.



















Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Yeah; I personally like to call him Thlnkl3 when he's not around...

Personally, form tacked on the end of a name; my friend does it all the time with my real name and I rage quit.
















Sorry Blitzy!
OK last time ;-) and at least I capitalize your decapitaed "b"

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Thanks Joe.






























THAT's TXTMSTRJOE to you!








HAHAHAH I spellid it wrong joe (had to check it before hitting post!


----------



## Blitz6804

Silly question Hueristic: does OCN not permit the use of "/" in a rig name? I thought it was the Texas Instruments TI-99/4A.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Silly question Hueristic: does OCN not permit the use of "/" in a rig name? I thought it was the Texas Instruments TI-99/4A.

Damed if I know, I wrote that all by my swiss cheese memory! Whole 16k memory! First system I coded animation.


----------



## BlackOmega

First computer I ever used was a Tandy TRS80. The first computer my parents ever owned was a Macplus. They actually still have it and it still works. They eve have the upgraded 13MB external HDD.


----------



## Karebear Killer

Hello all, having some dfi issues and Black omega reffered me here, here is a link to the current thread.

thanks for any ideas you may have

Edit: http://www.overclock.net/amd-motherb...up-reboot.html

Doh, the link might help


----------



## nategr8ns

Congrats BO on SLI! What BIOS are you using?

Hue, I'm not really sure if I can go. I thought I would have a car by then, but I think we're going to leave it here in Washington where I'll be for the rest of the summer until we can come back and pick it up during Christmas break or something.

Blitz, what was the date on it again?


----------



## Blitz6804

9/3/9!


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
9/3/9!
























Actually now that I think of it we need to map our locations and choose the middle spot.

I have a 1000+sqft place. More than enough room for all of us Of course we would have to clean off the pool table and set up some systems on it!


----------



## Blitz6804

I have a 900 sqft apartment. My complex has a meeting hall we can rent out (for free) if we think we need it, but so far, RSVPs are poor. If we want the middle ground, we should storm GuardianOdin's domicile, but I fear that I would be budget precluded from doing so.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
GOOD NEWS!!!!!!!!!! IT WORKS!!!!!!









BlackOmega, great job. I think this deserves a +1 for the accomplishment









Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I think my favorite S939 nickname is still thlnk3r's *thlnk3rbell*. I wish I could say I invented that, but alas, I can't. An old common friend of ours thought that one up.

Joe, ahhh the good ol'days. I know exactly who you are talking about LOL.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I have a 900 sqft apartment. My complex has a meeting hall we can rent out (for free) if we think we need it, but so far, RSVPs are poor. If we want the middle ground, we should storm GuardianOdin's domicile, but I fear that I would be budget precluded from doing so.

For someone running around with 2x Sapphire HD 4870x2 you don't look budget limited to me.


----------



## Blitz6804

I paid for neither of them, nor my chip. All my PC has pretty much been gifts or in exchange for hard labor. *Munches on ramen lunch.*


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
or in exchange for hard labor.

Blitz, does this "hard labor" imply that you were conducting "physical labor"?


----------



## Blitz6804

That it does thlnk3r, that it does. Seriously though, what am I doing with my rig as of late? Playing Age of Empires II (1999) and Age of Empires III (2005) primarily.

I am, however, happy to report that Crysis is FINALLY playable. 1920x1200, 2x AA, high-spec, DX9/32-bit gives me a fuzz over 55 FPS as a minimum and a fairly steady 75 FPS average. (Spikes are as high as 95 FPS.) HAWX is now fully playable maxed out, as is Gears of War; prior to the second card, the microstutters made them unplayable.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Blitz, I snicker at your definition of "playable Crysis."
















Update on Darth Raivo: The hardware side of the build is done. I had to re-mount the CPU cooler last night as I wasn't happy with the temperatures at full load. I'm glad I did because it resulted in a neat temperature drop.

Still running at stock speed at the moment and conducting thermal tests. I'll have to wait for the AS5 to cure before starting the OCing adventure. In the meantime, I've already installed most of the software and made an image of the OS, just in case the OCing results in a big disaster and FUBARs the OS.









Other notes: Probably because of the fact that the chipset sits right underneath the video card (and the Scythe Musashi is ramming hot air down onto the chipset cooler), EU reports the NB temp to be a steady 53 degs C. Does anybody know what the upper limits of this chipset are? I'm already budgeting for an aftermarket chipset cooler just in case.

Thanks, y'all!


----------



## Blitz6804

I was always under the impression that anything under 60Âº C for the chipset or PWM are fine. Take that with a grain of salt since I have never owned an nForce4 of any flavor.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I paid for neither of them, nor my chip. All my PC has pretty much been gifts or in exchange for hard labor. *Munches on *ramen* lunch.*


Funny I worked (That is the definition of hard labor btw) from 15 helping pay the morgage and bills until my injury in 2001.

I don't really understand why you would have to say that? I don't know anyone that gets free money.

Life is choices you worked for a Vid card, When and If I goto your place I will more than likely have to work to pay for the transportation rather than buying a <insert luxury here>.

Sorry if your hard labor falls on deaf ears but try living on the street awhile then you may have a clue as to the way the world works.









Good thing you chose law.









Hmmm, think you hit a nerve.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


EU reports the NB temp to be a steady 53 degs C. Does anybody know what the upper limits of this chipset are? I'm already budgeting for an aftermarket chipset cooler just in case.


Joe, I've always heard that the nForce 4 chipset can handle temperatures up to 90C. Not sure how accurate that is though. When I was running with the stock cooler I was see about the same temperatures as you.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I was always under the impression that anything under 60Âº C for the chipset or PWM are fine.


Blitz, both of those are separate components (as I'm sure you aware of) so the temperatures will vary. Either or can be higher than the other, it just depends on the airflow in the case.

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Well, EU reports a "motherboard" temperature of 45 degs C. Come to think of it, I'm now unsure as to what this one is (as opposed to a separate NB reading). But the motherboard reading is steady-as-she-goes-captain in the mid-40s at full load (running OCCT right now to help accelerate TIM cure), and high 30s at "idle."

If the motherboard reading is actually the MOSFET temperature (I'm assuming it is, since it rises with CPU load), I'm quite happy with that.


----------



## Blitz6804

Hueristic: I meant to imply that in exchange for the labor, I was paid with tech, rather than money then used to buy tech. I apologize about hitting your nerve.

txtmstrjoe: The fastest I have been able to cure AS5 was to run S&M's FPU for a half hour, idle an hour, turn off an hour, and then do it all again. After those five hours, I see AS5 decrease maybe one more degree over the rest of the month of normal usage. And I concur, a 45Âº C MOSFET would be nice.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Congrats BO on SLI! What BIOS are you using?


 Thanks









Er...um... the one that came with it







I honestly don't know as I've never had to flash it. But then again I haven't actually looked to see what version it is either.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, great job. I think this deserves a +1 for the accomplishment










 Thank you sir







I definitely had a sense of accomplishment when everything worked









Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Other notes: Probably because of the fact that the chipset sits right underneath the video card (and the Scythe Musashi is ramming hot air down onto the chipset cooler), EU reports the *NB temp to be a steady 53 degs C*. Does anybody know what the upper limits of this chipset are? I'm already budgeting for an aftermarket chipset cooler just in case.

Thanks, y'all!










 I honestly don't know what the upper limit is, but I do know that when mineget to 50*C, the temp turns red. IIRC, the stock BIOS setting for 100% fan speed was @ 55*C.
I try to keep them below 50*C if at all possible.

And now for my issues. 
Last night I swapped my CFX3200/PCP&C750/Opty 180/4870 back in to CM590.
Well I hit the (|) button and it turns on but its cycling before it gets to the POST screen. And what I mean by cycling is that its like resetting over and over again.







Never did this before.
After it does this between 4 and 11 times, I see the CFX splash screen and it POSTs normal. 
Anyway, I install windows SP2, ULi driver, CCC, utilities etc..

Everything works as it should except the strange rebooting, it does this if I do a restart as well.

Well I install my second 4870 and now it BSOD's when windows is loading up. I remove the card, it boots just fine into windows.

I don't know if it matters or not, but this time after I enabled RAID in BIOS it shows the ULi RAID thing too. It didn't do that before.









Any ideas?


----------



## Hueristic

NP Blitz, I get over sensitive to some things 









Glad you remounted Joe sounds like that was the way to go, todays mosfets average IIRC 65% thermal disipation from the front now so sinking them is well worth it if your PMS is running Hot. But the best method is and probably always will be to stand the fet up and sink it that way (as long as they are in these type packages).


----------



## Blitz6804

I have also heard that often changing out the stock paste on a northbridge can reduce temperatures as can tightening the factory mounts. Be VERY careful if you use AS5 or some other conductive TIM, easy to short the chip. (You use topless CPUs, this is a non-necessary warning I am sure.)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Ooh, good suggestion on playing with the BIOS settings when it comes to that NB fan! I forgot all about that!









(This is what happens when your primary machine doesn't have a NB fan.







)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


If the motherboard reading is actually the MOSFET temperature (I'm assuming it is, since it rises with CPU load), I'm quite happy with that.


Joe, from my understanding (in reference to Everest) the "motherboard" temperature is the "PWM". "North Bridge" I believe is the chipset temperature or nForce 4. My PWM always seems higher than my nForce 4 temperature.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I don't know if it matters or not, but this time after I enabled RAID in BIOS it shows the ULi RAID thing too. It didn't do that before.










BlackOmega, honestly I think the CFX3200 is just a crazy/wacky motherboard. All the negative stories I hear from Joe makes me believe that the board is just unreliable.

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, honestly I think the CFX3200 is just a crazy/wacky motherboard. All the negative stories I hear from Joe makes me believe that the board is just unreliable. 
Good luck


 Quite possibly








But mind you right before I swapped everything over, it had my 2 GSO's on it folding pretty much 24/7 without issues until SP3 and the SMP client. 
Im not sure what the deal is with it. That really sucks. I guess I might be going AM3 sooner than I thought, because I'll be damned if I pay over $100 for a CF 939 board, when I can get an Am3 for the same price.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I guess I might be going AM3 sooner than I thought, because I'll be damned if I pay over $100 for a CF 939 board, when I can get an Am3 for the same price.


 Sounds like a good plan. Any manufacutures of specific that you are interested in atm?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Sounds like a good plan. Any manufacutures of specific that you are interested in atm?


 Yeah actually, I've had my eye on that GB UD5P, I'd most likely get a 710 and what ever is the cheapest decent RAM, OCZ most likely.

Man this really sucks I really wanted to see if crossfiring 4870's on a 939 rig would have comprable performance to some of the newer tech. :swearing:


----------



## Blitz6804

I can speak from experience when I say there was no difference with 2x HD 3850 on a 2.8 GHz Toledo as compared to 2x HD 3850 on a 3.25 GHz Brisbane. If anything, the Toledo beat the Brisbane by 0-1 FPS. Newer cards closer to the PCIe saturation point might have a different story.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I can speak from experience when I say there was no difference with 2x HD 3850 on a 2.8 GHz Toledo as compared to 2x HD 3850 on a 3.25 GHz Brisbane. If anything, the Toledo beat the Brisbane by 0-1 FPS. Newer cards closer to the PCIe saturation point might have a different story.


 Yeah, I could detect bottlenecks even with my GSO's in SLI, but then again 1 4870 beat them both by a considerable margin.

I was just curious to see if I could get a 939 rig @ 3Ghz to get a decent score with 3dm06.









I'll keep on trying. Dangit


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I'll keep on trying. Dangit

That's the spirit.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I've had my eye on that GB UD5P


BlackOmega, if you're trying to save some money take a look at the GB UD4P. This is the board that I'll more than likely pick up in a few months.

Good luck bud


----------



## Kryton

Personally, I believe I'm going for the new Asus Crosshair III board. Expensive compared to the others but reviews so far state it's a great board. If not the Crosshair, I may go for the MSI board I was considering before seeing the Asus if they get anymore in to sell since these are sold out for now.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813130223

Either one should work great with my 720 BE chip.


----------



## Snerp

oh 939...those were the days. nothing quite like getting a nice san deigo on a DFI LAN party and cranking that sucker to ridiculous speeds with watercooling.

nice thread guys!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Personally, I believe I'm going for the new Asus Crosshair III board. Expensive compared to the others but reviews so far state it's a great board. If not the Crosshair, I may go for the MSI board I was considering before seeing the Asus if they get anymore in to sell since these are sold out for now.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813130223

Either one should work great with my 720 BE chip.

That MSI looks like a pretty serious and more then adequate for a Xfire board.

I'll have to google the Crosshair III now.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

A couple of teaser shots of Darth Raivo:

Raivo - Motherboard area









Raivo - Cooling system









Raivo - HDD cabling









Raivo - Tighter shot of motherboard









Raivo - Detail shot of Silicon Image SATA ports + front panel connector area









Raivo - "The hidden spaghetti"









Raivo - Studying my cabling options









Raivo - Under Lord Vader's watchful eyes


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, if you're trying to save some money take a look at the GB UD4P. This is the board that I'll more than likely pick up in a few months.

Good luck bud

I saw that board thinker, only thing I don't like about it 8x/8x. Other than that it looks to be a great board.

I just looked and that new DFI looks to be a nice board too. I've read some people have had issues with it, but as we all know these DFI are some picky little buggers. And for $139 for a 16x/16x/4x board, I think its well worth it. I'll be daring and try it. I've kind of have an affinity for these DFI's now









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Snerp* 
oh 939...those were the days. nothing quite like getting a nice san deigo on a DFI LAN party and cranking that sucker to ridiculous speeds with watercooling.

nice thread guys!

Thanks snerp









Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
A couple of teaser shots of Darth Raivo:

Raivo - Motherboard area









Raivo - Cooling system









Raivo - HDD cabling









Raivo - Tighter shot of motherboard









Raivo - Detail shot of Silicon Image SATA ports + front panel connector area









Raivo - "The hidden spaghetti"









Raivo - Studying my cabling options









Raivo - Under Lord Vader's watchful eyes









HAHA! Looking good! I was looking at the one pic and was like, I wonder if Joe knows he stuck his board in upside down









But I've got some good news.







Got my crossfire working AND set up a RAID array on the ULi chipset. SO far no problems at all, other than that weird rebooting, still havent figured that one out yet


----------



## N2Gaming

Looks good TMJ. Here we go again w/acrynames









I noticed no power to the mobo 4pin floppy and 4pin molex. Hopefully your just showing us how clean your cable management is and you have not got the that part yet.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Not only is the board upside down, it's also mounted on the wrong side of the case!
















Ah, these Lian Li PC-Vx000 series cases.







LOVELY pieces of art they are. As an aside, despite using such an obnoxiously powerful fan on the CPU cooler, it's a quieter machine than Darth Ominous, which is sitting right beside me right now. The thickness of the aluminum used on the Lian Li is the difference, methinks.

EDIT: N2G, all the power connectors are on.







Next time I open it up I'll go for a closeup.


----------



## BlackOmega

Ok guys just ran an HdTach benchmark on the ULi controlled RAID 0 array and the results are impressive. Definitely better than the nvidia controller.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Niiiiiiiiiiiice, Omega! VERY nice indeed!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Niiiiiiiiiiiice, Omega! VERY nice indeed!









Thanks!

And get this, so far its totally stable. I haven't had 1 issue with it locking up or freezing (knocks on wood). I wonder if my XFi had anything to do with it







I left it out during this install.

Now I'm going to do some benchmarking and see how she does.


----------



## Karebear Killer

I think theres a lot to read in this thread


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


But I've got some good news.







Got my crossfire working AND set up a RAID array on the ULi chipset. SO far no problems at all, other than that weird rebooting, still havent figured that one out yet










Great news BO! ULI really was a great company.







Nvidia is the devil!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Karebear Killer*


I think theres a lot to read in this thread










Nah you can read this thread in a day!
















OH and you guys thinking of MSI, Just a warning IMO they are substandard manufacturer.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
OH and you guys thinking of MSI, Just a warning IMO they are substandard manufacturer.

I was thinking about it based on features and the reviews I've seen on it so far. Normally customer reviews are fairly close to being accurate as I've noted over time.
Still, the Crosshair III looks like the one to go for if I can. I've had nothing but good luck with an Asus so far and that's with every one I've owned to this day (Except for those I purchased dead/for parts - Even then they served their purpose







).


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
I was thinking about it based on features and the reviews I've seen on it so far. Normally customer reviews are fairly close to being accurate as I've noted over time.
Still, the Crosshair III looks like the one to go for if I can. I've had nothing but good luck with an Asus so far and that's with every one I've owned to this day (Except for those I purchased dead/for parts - Even then they served their purpose







).


----------



## Blitz6804

Joe: Is the fan on the RAM necessary? Also, this is a Lian-Li case... have you decided if you wanted to get any of the DVD stealthing covers? I bought some for myself, but I cannot use them with my case with modifying them.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Blitz: This particular set of RAM (Crucial Ballistix Tracers, DDR500) has a reputation for getting quite hot, even on stock VDIMM, so yes, the RAM cooler does serve a purpose. It is not there just for looks.

In fact, during testing, when I had the side panels off, the RAM was often warmer to the fingertips than the Ultra 120 Extreme was.







This pretty much convinced me to put the RAM cooler on there.

Regarding the drive stealthing covers: I personally prefer the look of the bare drive faces myself. Plus I prefer to see the activity LEDs on the optical drives, which is impossible with the stealth covers on. (Not to mention the fact that Lian Li provided only ONE stealth drive cover, and I have two optical drives on this thing.)


----------



## Blitz6804

Ah, gotcha. I bought two covers myself, one day I might get around to modding them or giving them away. For activity LEDs I suppose you can drill a tiny hole where the LED is?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Great news BO! ULI really was a great company.







Nvidia is the devil!.


 I agree 100%. I remember when ULI surfaced. NVidia was really worried about that chipset. IIRC, it was beating the NF4 and SLIx16 chipsets pretty badly in most benchmarks.

And of course Nvidia bought them out and sunk it. :swearing: They even went as far as disabling SLI on the ULI boards. I almost bought a ULI based SLI board. I sent a tech ticket to Nvidia asking if the current ULI drivers support SLI. The answer was a great big no.


----------



## Blitz6804

The other thing that ULi was famous for was their RAID controllers. They far dominated anything that ATi put out at the time, which is why the better ATi boards had ULi controllers. I think that this was part of the reason why nVidia bought ULi: to gimp the ATi boards with those RAID controllers. I certainly would not put it past nVidia; I have already been a victim of them gimping ATi cards on their nForce3 chipset.


----------



## Hueristic

OMG we're turning into the Bash Nvidia Thread!







My bad.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


I was thinking about it based on features and the reviews I've seen on it so far. Normally customer reviews are fairly close to being accurate as I've noted over time. 
Still, the Crosshair III looks like the one to go for if I can. I've had nothing but good luck with an Asus so far and that's with every one I've owned to this day (Except for those I purchased dead/for parts - Even then they served their purpose







).


For me the proof would be in the pudd'n " reliability " after running some benches. I like how the MSI board has 4x PCIe x16 slots like my Destroyer mobo which two of the slots can run PCIe x4







. I also like how it has DDR3 RAM support for the AM3 CPU and AM2+ and AM2 cpu and DDR2 support as well. I did not think that was possible.









*Edit:* I don't know how I keep getting confused about AM3 mobo's I could swear the new egg description stated support for AM2+ & AM2 cpu's but I was wrong.









So I'm still confused because another review claims that the AM3 socket has 941 pins and Most of what I hear is that AM3 cpu's only have 938 pins. I'm wondering what is correct 941 or 938 Hmm. Maybe someday I'll get over all this confusion

*MSI 790FX-GD70*

AMD 790FX/SB750 Chipset
Supports AMD Socket *AM3 (941-pin)* Phenom II / Athlon processor
4 x PCI-E x16 slots support ATI CrossFireX Technology
Supports four dual-channel DDR3 1333 memory slots up to 16GB
Utilizes DrMOS chipset
APS(Active Phase Switching)
Dual 10/100/1000 Mb/s LAN Ports
High-quality 7.1-channel audio
8 SATAII and 1 eSATA hard disk interface, support RAID 0/1/0+1/5
2 PCI-E x1, 2 PCI slots
12 x USB 2.0, 1 x IEEE1394a
Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


OMG we're turning into the Bash Nvidia Thread!







My bad.

















 Sound to me like Nvidia has made it's bed and is now having to sleep in it. I do wish they would come out w/a chipset to support ACC and NB to CPU multipliers. I still have not found out if a 780a or 980a chipset will support an adjustable NB to CPU multi. Does any one know?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Karebear Killer*


I think theres a lot to read in this thread
































I hope you have several months to catch up. j/k This thread moves fast.

Welcome to OCN and the 939 club.

N2G

Edit: Regarding Nvidia, They are like any business, they are looking to not only survive but thrive. Hence the purchase of 3DFX. I had one of those AGP Voodoo 3000 cards. lol


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
OMG we're turning into the Bash Nvidia Thread!







My bad.
























Nvidia


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I saw that board thinker, only thing I don't like about it 8x/8x.


BlackOmega, that was for Crossfire mode though right? A single video card would run in 16x which is perfect for me. I never really get the motivation to sli/crossfire.

By the way, beautiful HDTach benchmarks. Those are some pretty quick drives. I'm still drooling over Joe's Velociraptors.

Joe, nice pictures of Raivo. My favorite picture is the shot of the drives and sata cables









Speaking of 3dfx, I still have a couple 3000's and the original sli style card that used the dongles hehe

Good luck guys


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


I'm still drooling over Joe's Velociraptors.

Joe, nice pictures of Raivo. My favorite picture is the shot of the drives and sata cables









Speaking of 3dfx, I still have a couple 3000's and the original sli style card that used the dongles hehe

Good luck guys


I was thinking the same thing when I saw the pictures or the VRap's...

Sweet looking drives and set up tmj...

Personally I have only owned the one voodoo 3000 " goes back to edit previouse post " and have never seen the original SLI cards from 3DFX, It sure would be nice to see one some day " wink wink " just to have some history behind original SLI.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


It sure would be nice to see one some day " wink wink " just to have some history behind original SLI.


N2Gaming, I'll get you a pic tomorrow. I need to go digging through all my old stuff


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, I'll get you a pic tomorrow. I need to go digging through all my old stuff










LOL now worries no hurries.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, that was for Crossfire mode though right? A single video card would run in 16x which is perfect for me. I never really get the motivation to sli/crossfire.

By the way, beautiful HDTach benchmarks. Those are some pretty quick drives. I'm still drooling over Joe's Velociraptors.

Thanks, I was definitely pleasantly surprised by the numbers. And yeah Joe's raptors are sick fast.

As for the board, yeah I meant in crossfire mode. Since I have 2 4870's now, I'll be looking for a board that supports 16x/16x.
I was actually looking at this DFI LP DK790FXB-M3H5 $139.99, 2 or 3 way crossfire, 16x/16x or 16x/16x/4x. That 3rd slot would serve perfectly for an nvidia card for physx. Don't look at the negative reviews by some people here's a classic one I found on there about this board.
BTW, I believe there is a sale at newegg if you put in promo code mbsale10. 10% off any mobo.

Quote:

NoToRiOuS' G.I.B.
Tech Level: high
Ownership: less than 1 day
This user purchased this item from Newegg

6/18/2009 8:46:18 AM

Rating + 1 Maxor SuXor

Pros: rich in features and defects

Cons: rich in defects...
I ordered one of these shortly after it was released and my cpu WOULD NOT MOUNT (x4 940)...so i wasted about an hour with a magnifying glass examining the mounting block and my cpu's pins...tried and tried...and would not mount period. I RMA'd it immediately. New egg was kind enough to cross ship me a replacement of the exact same model overnight (I have been a customer of thiers for over 6 yrs) and i got the new one 48 hours later. I opened it...tried to mount the same cpu, same problem...same examination procedures, and rma'd it in less that 2 hours. DFI has issues with this model. In fairness I have used over a hundred dfi boards and loved them and their rock solid stability and overclocking features as i am a custom high performance pc builder....however this baby needs shot.
I opted to order the new ASUS Crosshair III Board that was released on may 29 of 2009...not to mention its broken all overclocking world records







so im excited to play with IT !!!!!!!

Other Thoughts: all and all you are hard pressed to beat a DFI motherboard if you know what your doing. If you don't know what your doing...stay away from it...they are all very finicky and particular much like... like a high maintainance women....if ya cant handle them...they will drive ya nuts but the performance is worth it







ASUS is a good choice for noobs, and so is Foxconn actually.
Tech level high huh?







Sure it is


----------



## GuardianOdin

I wanna see Joe's numbers!.....sigh, I can't keep up with this thread lol. Can one of my fellow 939'ers point to Joe's Raptor benchies?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

G.O., click me!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
G.O., click me!

and a Woot! Oh teach me wise master on to teh raid









seriously, My garnishment is finished guys! now I can plan and build a new rig and plan on buying a 2 raptors for it. Is it possible to have 150Gbx2 raptors in raid 0 "I think that is correct" and still use my Seagate 250Gb as storage?

and I'll be running 4890's in crossfire







I'm hoping for better folding in the ATI department.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Is it possible to have 150Gbx2 raptors in raid 0 "I think that is correct" and still use my Seagate 250Gb as storage?


Yup. That'll work just fine.

Quick Note: Disable CrossfireX when running [email protected] ANd then Run 2 instances of [email protected] for GPU2.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
and a Woot! Oh teach me wise master on to teh raid









seriously, My garnishment is finished guys! now I can plan and build a new rig and plan on buying a 2 raptors for it. Is it possible to have 150Gbx2 raptors in raid 0 "I think that is correct" and still use my Seagate 250Gb as storage?

and I'll be running 4890's in crossfire







*I'm hoping for better folding in the ATI department*.

That wont happen. Theres a reason I dont fold on my 4870's. They get the same PPD as my GSO's and at more than double the price, I reserve them for gaming.
Nvidia is the only way to go for folding.

And yeah you can use the 250GB for storage no prob.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
seriously, My garnishment is finished guys! now I can plan and build a new rig and plan on buying a 2 raptors for it. *Is it possible to have 150Gbx2 raptors in raid 0 "I think that is correct" and still use my Seagate 250Gb as storage?*

Indeed. If you set things up thus, it can be done.









This, of course, assumes that you're using the 250GB drive purely for storage, yes? I'm thinking that you'd back up all the data currently on there, wipe it, then install the OS on the RAID 0 array, and have the 250GB drive on its own (which is basically how I've got Darth Raivo set up right now).


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
That wont happen. Theres a reason I dont fold on my 4870's. They get the same PPD as my GSO's and at more than double the price, I reserve them for gaming.
Nvidia is the only way to go for folding.

And yeah you can use the 250GB for storage no prob.

Yeah I know currently ATI has poor [email protected] performance, Might hope was that ATI card would better utilize the program by the time I switched to ATI cards.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Yup. That'll work just fine.

Quick Note: Disable CrossfireX when running [email protected] ANd then Run 2 instances of [email protected] for GPU2.

Thanks Tator <---it's fun saying that









Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Indeed. If you set things up thus, it can be done.









This, of course, assumes that you're using the 250GB drive purely for storage, yes? I'm thinking that you'd back up all the data currently on there, wipe it, then install the OS on the RAID 0 array, and have the 250GB drive on its own (which is basically how I've got Darth Raivo set up right now).









yes the 250 would be purely for storage. I will be installing Windows 7 on the Raptors.

It's looking to be about $2000 build "give or take" depending on the market of things. I'll be starting off with RAM/Case/ Fans/CPU and the the Mobo and vid cards will be last, by that time I believe ATI will have DirectX11 cards out for purchase. But right now the 4890's are markers for what they "directX11 cards" MAY cost.

Sadly, since I do not have room for my 939 rig I will be donating it to my sister. Not the DFI Expert, but the rest of the rig. She does like some games and I think she would enjoy using a decent if old tech.

So that means I'll have the DFI Expert and Muskin DDR500 (2Gb) RAM up grabs weather it be another prize for our club or for sale. Not sure yet.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
As for the board, yeah I meant in crossfire mode. Since I have 2 4870's now, I'll be looking for a board that supports 16x/16x.
I was actually looking at this DFI LP DK790FXB-M3H5 $139.99, 2 or 3 way crossfire, 16x/16x or 16x/16x/4x. That 3rd slot would serve perfectly for an nvidia card for physx.

...

Tech level high huh?







Sure it is









"Durr! Why are 940 pins fitting into 938 holes!? I do not understand durr!"*

Seriously though, I have a similar board in the AM2+ variant. (The sole difference being SB600 instead of SB750.) They are good boards save for an INCREDIBLY long POST time. From the time you hit the power button until the time you get the POST beep is 30-60 seconds, thereby making it longer than my AT8-32x and my GA-K8NSC-939 COMBINED! The BIOS is easy to navigate, and save for the epic vdroop with a quad core, its a darned good board.

I have done some reading into the PhysX; it seems that it helps massively on games that support it (I have seen reports that framerates can improve upwards of 300%) but the problem is that so few do. It is interesting to note that according to DFI, quadfire precludes the use of Physics, likely due to the four GPU limit of Windows. I wonder how tri-fire (HD 4870x2 + HD 4870) would do with Physics? Just for fair warning, if you use a discrete sound card, you will be adjoining at least one GPU no matter what you do. One PCI slot is nestled between the GPUs (bad idea) and the other is directly below the second. If you want a discrete sound card, I would recommend getting a PCIe version and putting it in the bottom slot; since getting the second GPU, I have noticed that my audio can sometimes be a bit... muddled?... as compared to one GPU.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
I'll be running 4890's in crossfire







I'm hoping for better folding in the ATI department.

ATi folding still is epic failure. On HD 4870x2s, a lot of users can only fold on one of the two cores. Strangely, it is not the first core, it is the second core. If you just install and run [email protected], it crashes out within minutes. Make a secondary monitor, run [email protected] on it, and it runs without a hitch. Even then, you are only looking at 3-4k PPD, might as well just use CPU SMP for that and save the electricity.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
...by that time I believe ATI will have DirectX11 cards out for purchase. But right now the 4890's are markers for what they "directX11 cards" MAY cost.

Yeah, ATi is supposed to be launching the HD 58xx series with Windows 7 and DX11. I am interested to see what sort of change DX11 brings around, because in my opinion, DX10 was a bit of a failure. So few games use it (most prefer DX9 to ensure Windows XP, the market majority share holder, compatibility) and those that do take a massive performance hit. HAWX, Crysis, Gears of War; all get MUCH lower frame rates in DX10 than DX9. With the exception of HAWX, I have no games that even run DX10.1, ATi's exclusive tech child, of which I notice no difference as compared to DX10 in either picture quality or frame rate.

*For those that do not know, AM3 has 938 pins. The PhII X4 940 is an AM2+ CPU, so it has 940 pins. You can put an AM3 CPU (like a PhII X4 955) into an AM2+ board, but not the other way around.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


"Durr! Why are 940 pins fitting into 938 holes!? I do not understand durr!"*

*For those that do not know, AM3 has 938 pins. The PhII X4 940 is an AM2+ CPU, so it has 940 pins. You can put an AM3 CPU (like a PhII X4 955) into an AM2+ board, but not the other way around.


 Durr! what are we little kids again.







I edited my post above # 16521. Any how you should see how I get easily confused. I hear 938 pins and read 941 then I could swear I read 940 for AM3 on the egg but I was prolly just tired and confused the 240 ram pin w/940 am2 config. Durr!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


"Durr! Why are 940 pins fitting into 938 holes!? I do not understand durr!"*


 I always love reading the reviews. Especially the negative ones, more often than not it's someones ignorance or inexperience that causes them the headaches. Similar to the guy that chopped the top off of his cooler to find the heat pipes were hollow!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Seriously though, I have a similar board in the AM2+ variant. (The sole difference being SB600 instead of SB750.) They are good boards save for an INCREDIBLY long POST time. From the time you hit the power button until the time you get the POST beep is 30-60 seconds, thereby making it longer than my AT8-32x and my GA-K8NSC-939 COMBINED! The BIOS is easy to navigate, and save for the epic vdroop with a quad core, its a darned good board.


 That does seem odd. Sounds like there is something wrong. On my virgin installs, from the time I push the button to usable desktop is ~20-25 seconds. Service pack 3 definitely extends the load time considerably, about doubles it. 
Have you tried updating the BIOS on the board? (if there is an updated one). Personally, I would contact their tech support.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I have done some reading into the PhysX; it seems that it helps massively on games that support it (I have seen reports that framerates can improve upwards of 300%) but the problem is that so few do. It is interesting to note that according to DFI, quadfire precludes the use of Physics, likely due to the four GPU limit of Windows. I wonder how tri-fire (HD 4870x2 + HD 4870) would do with Physics?


 This gives me an idea now. I am just curious how much a dedicated physx card would really help out. From what i have seen it really helps in 3dmark benchmarks. Might try it on one of my Ultra-D's.

Taken from wiki:The following games feature PhysX support (list may be incomplete):

* 2 Days to Vegas
* Adrenalin 2: Rush Hour
* Age of Empires III (Only on the Mac version)
* Alpha Prime
* APB
* Auto Assault
* Backbreaker
* B.A.S.E. Jumping
* Bet on Soldier: Blackout Saigon
* Bet on Soldier: Blood of Sahara
* Bet on Soldier: Blood Sport
* Beowulf: The Game
* Bladestorm: The Hundred Years' War
* Brothers in Arms: Hell's Highway
* Captain Blood
* CellFactor: Combat Training
* CellFactor: Revolution
* City of Villains
* Crazy Machines 2
* Cryostasis: Sleep of Reason
* Dark Physics
* Desert Diner
* Dragonshard
* Dusk 12
* Empire Above All
* Empire Earth III
* Entropia Universe
* Fallen Earth
* Frontlines: Fuel of War
* Fury
* Gears of War
* Gears of War 2
* Race Driver: Grid
* Gluk'Oza: Action
* GooBall
* Gothic 3
* Gunship Apocalypse
* Heavy Rain
* Helldorado 2
* Hero's Journey
* Hour of Victory
* Huxley
* iFluid
* Infernal
* Inhabited island: Prisoner of Power
* Joint Task Force
* Kran Simulator 2009[16]
* Kuma\\War
* Magic Ball 3[citation needed]
* Mass Effect
* Medal of Honor: Airborne (No GeForce PhysX)
* Metro 2033
* Mirror's Edge
* Mobile Suit Gundam: Crossfire
* Monster Madness: Battle for Suburbia
* Monster Truck Maniax
* Myst Online: Uru Live
* Nights: Journey of Dreams
* Nurien
* Open Fire (and its successor, Open Fire Gold)
* Paragraph 78
* Pirates of the Burning Sea
* Prince of Persia
* PT Boats: Knights of the Sea
* Rail Simulator
* Red Steel
* Rise of Nations: Rise of Legends
* Robert Ludlum's The Bourne Conspiracy
* Roboblitz
* Sacred 2
* Shadowgrounds: Survivor
* Sherlock Holmes: The Awakened
* Showdown: Scorpion
* Silverfall
* Sovereign Symphony
* Sonic and the Black Knight
* Sonic and the Secret Rings
* Speedball 2
* Stoked Rider: Alaska Alien
* Switchball
* Tension
* The Hunt
* The Stalin Subway
* Tom Clancy's Ghost Recon Advanced Warfighter
* Tom Clancy's Ghost Recon Advanced Warfighter 2
* Tom Clancy's Rainbow Six: Vegas (No GeForce PhysX)
* Tom Clancy's Splinter Cell: Double Agent
* Tortuga: Two Treasures
* Two Worlds
* Ultra Tubes
* Unreal Tournament 3
* Unreal Tournament 3: Extreme Physics Mod
* Valkyria Chronicles
* Warfare
* Warmonger: Operation Downtown Destruction
* W.E.L.L. Online
* Winterheart's Guild
* WorldShift

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Just for fair warning, if you use a discrete sound card, you will be adjoining at least one GPU no matter what you do. One PCI slot is nestled between the GPUs (bad idea) and the other is directly below the second. If you want a discrete sound card, I would recommend getting a PCIe version and putting it in the bottom slot; since getting the second GPU, I have noticed that my audio can sometimes be a bit... muddled?... as compared to one GPU.


 Even with just one GPU and the sound card in the bottom there will still be interference. I have done some snooping around the audiophile posts and have found that a lot of really hardcore people shield their cards. Shielding really helps a lot. When I did car audio all of the RCA's and speaker wire were shielded to minimize electrostatic interference. It does work.
I wonder if you'd need active cooling with a shielded sound card.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


ATi folding still is epic failure. On HD 4870x2s, a lot of users can only fold on one of the two cores. Strangely, it is not the first core, it is the second core. If you just install and run [email protected], it crashes out within minutes. Make a secondary monitor, run [email protected] on it, and it runs without a hitch. Even then, you are only looking at *3-4k PPD*, might as well just use CPU SMP for that and save the electricity.


 While 3-4k PPD isn't horrible, but with the amount of electricity they use and heat they put out, no thanks. Not to mention noise, if I ran my reference coolers @ 100% it would be unbearable. Although they are noisy, I must say that they do work well. @ 50% fan speed gaming hardcore I don't see my 4870's going over 60*C (idle @ 46*C in a 26*C room). My GSO's folding @ 100%/100% fan speed will regularly reach temps of ~77*C (depending on WU).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Durr! what are we little kids again.







I edited my post above # 16521. Any how you should see how I get easily confused. I hear 938 pins and read 941 then I could swear I read 940 for AM3 on the egg but I was prolly just tired and confused the 240 ram pin w/940 am2 config. Durr!


 Never trust the tech specs on newegg. I've seen lots of wrong info on there. I always check the manufacturers website, and usually download the manual for items such as motherboards.
And I always check on AMD's website for the exact tech specs. I've seen some CPU's that had the wrong L3 cache amount (6 MB instead of 4). etc.

I've found it really is worth the extra hassle to find out about a product. Saves headaches later on.


----------



## Blitz6804

BlackOmega: I am not talking the time from POST to opening the OS, I am talking from the time you push the power button until you get a POST beep. This motherboard (LanParty DK 790FX-M2RS) is epic failure when it comes to that time. I would shield my card if I could find a cheap supplier, but I have not been able to find as such yet. As to PhysX:
Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


According to nVidia, the games I have that are PhysX compatible are:

Age of Empires III + both expansions
Gears of War
Mass Effect
This is why I went ATi; PhysX really would not help the bulk of my gaming. (I hardly play AoEIII, I MUCH prefer AoEII (or even AoEI) and lately have been playing a lot of it again... anyone up for some multiplayer?)


N2Gaming: AM3 CPUs have 938 pins, AM3 sockets have 941 pins. AM2+ CPUs and sockets have 940 pins. The keying is as such that the AM2+ CPUs do not fit in AM3 sockets, and I am amazed how many people post negative reviews about AM3 boards citing that their X4 940 does not fit.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


BlackOmega: I am not talking the time from POST to opening the OS, I am talking from the time you push the power button until you get a POST beep. This motherboard (LanParty DK 790FX-M2RS) is epic failure when it comes to that time. I would shield my card if I could find a cheap supplier, but I have not been able to find as such yet..


I knew what u meant. Thats why I suggested updating the BIOS, if there was one available, if not contact their tech support. It sounds to me like there is something wrong with the board. No board should EVER take that long to POST. 
Out of curiosity, is there a setting in the BIOS for fast POST? All of my DFI's have them, hell even my crappy little netbook has it.
Might want to see if changing the setting makes a difference or not.


----------



## Blitz6804

I have updated the BIOS every time they came out with a new one; I am on the fifth version now. Contacting tech support resulted in them ignoring any inquires. (They answer every other time I email them except when asking about POST time.)


----------



## BlackOmega

I have heard that about their tech support. Which is quite unfortunate really. But I am one persistent mofo, I wouldn't relent.
Have you tried calling them? And if all that fails, contact someone higher up. Or when you call ask to speak to a manager.


----------



## Blitz6804

It just is not worth it. As long as it POSTs and runs stablely, what is the issue? At such time that it cannot POST, then I can contact tech support again, and my prior complaints have been documented.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
It just is not worth it. As long as it POSTs and runs stablely, what is the issue? At such time that it cannot POST, then I can contact tech support again, and my prior complaints have been documented.


Do all (most) of the boards do this or just yours?


----------



## Blitz6804

Never researched it.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 

This gives me an idea now. I am just curious how much a dedicated physx card would really help out. From what i have seen it really helps in 3dmark benchmarks. Might try it on one of my Ultra-D's.

Even with just one GPU and the sound card in the bottom there will still be interference. I have done some snooping around the audiophile posts and have found that a lot of really hardcore people shield their cards. Shielding really helps a lot. When I did car audio all of the RCA's and speaker wire were shielded to minimize electrostatic interference. It does work.
*I wonder if you'd need active cooling with a shielded sound card.*









Nope, atleast not the Creative X-Fi Fatal1ty Pro or Champion (only 2 shielded cards I know of.)

I have a bit older sound card (with modded drivers it has the same performance as the X-Fi Platinum Champion (it's a re-bagged card, our front panels are even the same)

Most of the time though, you don't need active cooling for a sound card. My card is really old tech, 130nm if I remember right, which should mean huge heat output by standard logic. But these things don't, as they are just not doing a lot. Blasting music for days on end yields no increase in temps above 1 or 2*C of my ambient.

You throw some shielding on them...and you might see...another 1*C rise in temps. By my guess.

I've actually shielded one of the X-Fi Platinum cards before. And it's never had an issue (my bud's a big Audiophile, but couldn't touch a tool without breaking it







so I do many DIY stuff for him)

_Side Note Of The Day_: I just finished re-wiring everything in the house to brand new Cat 6a 550mhz wire. And threw in a few more breakers into my second box. That took about 3 days to do. But it was damn fun. Just to many holes to drill, and to much pipe to lay.


----------



## timxirish

Long time, no post for me. Dropping in to say I've started to embark on a quest of swapping multiple cooling products in my two 939 rigs. Finally going to be installing that Thermalright HR-05 SLI/IFX of mine.

Was going to install my SI-128SE but ran into a problem... No 939 bolt thru kit.







... So installing one of those is on hold until I find one somewhere.

Really was excited to put it in and needed to, actually.. My other PC is in a Thermaltake Lanbox. For those of you familiar with the case, you know that that thing is cramped as all hell. Well, it just so happens that my current cpu cooler for it doesn't help all that much (temps were at 78C after 40 mins of decent resolution standard def video).

Once my new cooler is in that main rig, the second rig will get my Blue Orb II and things will be fine again... Then I can actually OC that second rig.









At the very least, I'm happy to say the HR-05 will fit nicely.









-timx


----------



## spartacus

Hey! Sign me up for this club! 
I picked up a 939 cpu (3700+) and mobo to build an ultra-cheap htpc!


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *timxirish*


Long time, no post for me. Dropping in to say I've started to embark on a quest of swapping multiple cooling products in my two 939 rigs. Finally going to be installing that Thermalright HR-05 SLI/IFX of mine.

Was going to install my SI-128SE but ran into a problem... No 939 bolt thru kit.










Grab some cutting cutting shears and some sheet metal and make it fit!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spartacus*


Hey! Sign me up for this club! 
I picked up a 939 cpu (3700+) and mobo to build an ultra-cheap htpc!










welcome!


----------



## Blitz6804

I have a spare 939 Bolt-through kit for the SI-128 / SI-128 SE if you are interested timxirish.


----------



## timxirish

Heh, I actually did consider modding my mounting hardware a little.. One involved bending the AM2 mount bracket a little, another involved putting some sort of spacers between the stock plastic top piece (part with the hooks for the coolers to mount to)... But if I bend the AM2 bracket, I won't be able to use it when I finally do upgrade, and I don't have proper tools/materials to make it fit nicely any other way.

Bolt thru kits are fairly cheap, so if someone here on OCN doesn't have one to sell (joe's checking around to see if he's got one), i'll hit up a webshop.

EDIT:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I have a spare 939 Bolt-through kit for the SI-128 / SI-128 SE if you are interested timxirish.

If joe's unable to find his spare, I will definitely let you know.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
N2Gaming: AM3 CPUs have 938 pins, AM3 sockets have 941 pins. AM2+ CPUs and sockets have 940 pins. The keying is as such that the AM2+ CPUs do not fit in AM3 sockets, and I am amazed how many people post negative reviews about AM3 boards citing that their X4 940 does not fit.

What makes me curiouse about the 941 pins is this. Does AMD have plans in the future to utilize the extra 3 pins for faster ram etc etc?

Physx Cards: Does win XP take advantage of a seperate Physx card. I know I have the option in the Nvidia control panel to turn Physx on but I don't even know if it helps any. I'm trying to use it w/a 8600GTS and I have read that a 8600 would actually slow a system down if running Physx through it if you have faster SLI cards in play.


----------



## Blitz6804

As far as I know, SLI beats GPU+PhysX if you have two identical cards. The point of offering a distinct PhysX card instead of relying solely on CUDA is to permit you to get a good card for graphics and a poor card for PhysX to help it out. If you have the money for two good cards, SLI should win every time.

And AMD will someday use the extra three pins as far as I am aware. At that point, I am sure AM3 CPUs will no longer be compatible with AM2+ sockets. Look how long it took AMD to turn on ACC though. Further, to this date, AMD Sideport on the HD 4870x2 is still disabled.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hmm, I was running 2x9800GT OC cards and 1x 8600GTS for Physx. I stopped running Physx when I read some where that the 8600GTS does the system no justice other then to help over heat it.







I was also going to run 2x8600GTS with the 2x 9800GT OC for Quad folding but I don't think my PSU could handle it. I only have a 700W ThermalTake Tough Power and I don't want to kill it by folding w/4 gpu's. That is where a good Corsair HX1000 would come in handy but the price. Heck I should have grabbed that one I could of got on ebay w/the option to buy now at $185.00 shipped. Oh well there will always be others.

Good News. I got home from the movies " The Proposal " btw it's a good movie to see w/a nice girl friend but be wanrnd it's a little tear jurker unless you are just cold and heartless. Any way the good news. I had a Pink tag on my front door so I think it's the 2x 8800GTS Vids that I purchased last week.







I'll have to pick them up at the post office tomorrow morning when I sign for them.


----------



## Hueristic

So guys figured I'd share a pic of my new htpc comeing online.
http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/345...ntestbench.jpg

Lousey angle and it's a mess but it's comeing together, what you can't see from here is the rack portion is all operational.







Gotta finish it up then start on the waterboarding potion.







:sickman:


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Physx Cards: Does win XP take advantage of a seperate Physx card. I know I have the option in the Nvidia control panel to turn Physx on but I don't even know if it helps any. I'm trying to use it w/a 8600GTS and I have read that a 8600 would actually slow a system down if running Physx through it if you have faster SLI cards in play.


It depends on what you are using for PhysX.

To actually use PhsyX without bogging down any multi-GPU setup by either occupying GPU clocks or CPU clocks for PhysX you are required to have a certain number of Shader Processors on the card fo it to effeciently work the PhysX calculations.

You also need GDDR3 Memory, a 128bit bus, and atleast 256mb of VRAM.

From most benchmarking, people have concluded that the 9600GT (64 Shaper Processors) is optimum for high resolutions (1600x1200)/(1920000 pixels and up.) As it doesn't create any excess GPU usage or CPU usage compared to when PhysX is off.

Though, if you are on a resolution that is (1680x1050)/(1764000 pixels and lower), the 9600GSO 48 Shaper Processor model will work just fine without adding any extra CPU or GPU usage compared to when PhysX is off.

From my personal testing with the 8600GTS (32 SPs) it's only 15% higher CPU usage with PhysX on durring UT3. Than when I have PhysX off. This is on 1280x1024.

If I go up to 1600x1200 for my in game resolution, then it can spike up to 38% higher CPU usage. Which at that point, you can feel. It basically produces a noticable lag spike. Your frames per second do not drop, but the game gets that bogged down feeling for just a second, and then takes a few more seconds to get back up to the pace it was before.

Currently, if you are looking for dedicated PhysX/Folder, the 9600GSO @ $35 After MIR + Shipping is your best option. Unless you can find an Ageia/BFG/Asus PhysX Processing Unit for under $20 shipped.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


It depends on what you are using for PhysX.

To actually use PhsyX without bogging down any multi-GPU setup by either occupying GPU clocks or CPU clocks for PhysX you are required to have a certain number of Shader Processors on the card fo it to effeciently work the PhysX calculations.

You also need GDDR3 Memory, a 128bit bus, and atleast 256mb of VRAM.

From most benchmarking, people have concluded that the 9600GT (64 Shaper Processors) is optimum for high resolutions (1600x1200)/(1920000 pixels and up.) As it doesn't create any excess GPU usage or CPU usage compared to when PhysX is off.

Though, if you are on a resolution that is (1680x1050)/(1764000 pixels and lower), the 9600GSO 48 Shaper Processor model will work just fine without adding any extra CPU or GPU usage compared to when PhysX is off.

From my personal testing with the 8600GTS (32 SPs) it's only 15% higher CPU usage with PhysX on durring UT3. Than when I have PhysX off. This is on 1280x1024.

If I go up to 1600x1200 for my in game resolution, then it can spike up to 38% higher CPU usage. Which at that point, you can feel. It basically produces a noticable lag spike. Your frames per second do not drop, but the game gets that bogged down feeling for just a second, and then takes a few more seconds to get back up to the pace it was before.

Currently, if you are looking for dedicated PhysX/Folder, the 9600GSO @ $35 After MIR + Shipping is your best option. Unless you can find an Ageia/BFG/Asus PhysX Processing Unit for under $20 shipped.


Thanks and funny you should mention UT3 becuase I tried that game w/my sig rig and the extra 8600GTS as the Physx card and it flet a little better but then again it could have been the server I was, the amount of players and the ping at the time. I just jumped in and out of a game for a couple of minutes to see if it would feel or look any better at 1920x1080 on my 40" LCD 1080P TV. I did not notice any lag or slugginsh feeling and felt content to leave it until I read something like what you just stated. BTW I just started using that set up on a regular basis to surf the web and play games in the cockpit of my lazy boy. Man what a difference it is from sitting at a cramped up computer table 2-2.5 feet away from my monitor.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/345...ntestbench.jpg


Edit: sorry for the double down.

I have the same PCI video card as you on the right. The S3 but you have the extra RAM that I don't have. The Extra removeable ram that is.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I have the same video card as you on the right. the S3 but you have the extra RAM. I don't have the Extra removeable ram.


My favorite card of all time! A must for every repair. Cept on this board, It looks like the pci slots are toast! Weird. Well what do you want from our buddy landoo!


----------



## BlackOmega

N2, the best way to find out if you're 8600 running as a physx card is bogging your system down is just run some benchmarks. From some of the benches I have seen the physx card wont raise your GPU score any but it should raise your CPU score.

Try running 3dmark06 or vantage and see if there is a noticeable difference.

BTW, saw you on OCN TF2 last







. I was ownin that :turd:


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
N2, the best way to find out if you're 8600 running as a physx card is bogging your system down is just run some benchmarks. From some of the benches I have seen the physx card wont raise your GPU score any but it should raise your CPU score.

Try running 3dmark06 or vantage and see if there is a noticeable difference.

BTW, saw you on OCN TF2 last







. I was ownin that :turd:









Thanks I'll have to try 3DMark06. I won a free Vantage Key but I don't have vista. will Vantage work w/Win 7?

I saw you last night handing out major beat downs. I sux at it but it's still fun. I feel like I contribute more then I get in the way so all is good. Heck when I stopped playing you were in first place points wise. It's alway nice to have a medic power you up to do your destruction of the enemy


----------



## timxirish

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Thanks I'll have to try 3DMark06. I won a free Vantage Key but I don't have vista. will Vantage work w/Win 7?

Yep, it definitely does. Tested it first hand on Windows 7 x64 build 7068. I'm sure the RC (7100) will run it too with no problem.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Thanks I'll have to try 3DMark06. I won a free Vantage Key but I don't have vista. will Vantage work w/Win 7?

I saw you last night handing out major beat downs. I sux at it but it's still fun. I feel like I contribute more then I get in the way so all is good. Heck when I stopped playing you were in first place points wise. It's alway nice to have a medic power you up to do your destruction of the enemy









Not sure if it works with win7 to tell you honestly. I know that most drivers are that are associated with win7 are also the same ones used for vista. At least the GPU drivers were.

And you most definitely were helping out in TF2. Helping me push that cart along.







2 heavies just mowing the other team down







I'm glad those guns dont overheat otherwise I'd be like














most of the time. lol.
And yeah I was trying to crack 100 points on that map, I think the second place (pointswise) person was 25 points back. I managed to get 98 anyway.
And having a medic that knows what he's doing is always a bonus. I hate playing certain games if the rest of my team has no idea what they're doing. It makes you do all the work :swearing:


----------



## Kryton

Just passing this along:

Checkout the 32M Super PI thread.
I've taken over the job of keeping it updated and have it up to date for now. You can also look at the spreadsheet I've been working on and although for the moment there are issues getting it to appear, you can still view it by clicking the link in the opening post.

Maybe we can stirup some 939 action there....


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Just passing this along:

Checkout the 32M Super PI thread.
I've taken over the job of keeping it updated and have it up to date for now. You can also look at the spreadsheet I've been working on and although for the moment there are issues getting it to appear, you can still view it by clicking the link in the opening post.

Maybe we can stirup some 939 action there....









Link?


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Link?


It's within the opening post indicated as being a spreadsheet right above the Top 10 AMD entries.

http://www.overclock.net/benchmarkin...top-times.html


----------



## N2Gaming

EDIT: I found it I still have to get use to using IE8.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *timxirish* 
Yep, it definitely does. Tested it first hand on Windows 7 x64 build 7068. I'm sure the RC (7100) will run it too with no problem.

Kuooolll, I'll have to inststal Win 7 X64 again for Vantage and to see if they maid any improvments. I'd also like to see if I can get the newest Quake beta to run this time if they are still playing the beta that is. I played Left for dead on my TV and my GF actually liked the game. I was able to get her to play it on her own. she got tired after not being able to find her way to the next safe house after about 1/2 hour of trying. Out of all the games she likes to watch me play that one the most. I'll have to try it on one of my 939 rigs one of these days just to see how well it plays on them compared to the AM2+ system in my sig. I had fun that time you school'd me b4mex









Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Not sure if it works with win7 to tell you honestly. I know that most drivers are that are associated with win7 are also the same ones used for vista. At least the GPU drivers were.

And you most definitely were helping out in TF2. Helping me push that cart along.







2 heavies just mowing the other team down







I'm glad those guns dont overheat otherwise I'd be like














most of the time. lol.
And yeah I was trying to crack 100 points on that map, I think the second place (pointswise) person was 25 points back. I managed to get 98 anyway.
And having a medic that knows what he's doing is always a bonus. I hate playing certain games if the rest of my team has no idea what they're doing. It makes you do all the work :swearing:

Thanks for the vote of confidence.







I know you were getting frustrated w/me when we tried to play BF2


----------



## timxirish

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 







I typed up a whole bunch of stuff about L4D and my GF liking wo watch me play int on the TV but I lost it some how.









Heh, no prob. Shoot me a PM sometime if you want to play. I'm a little rusty, but I haven't lost everything with that game.









Sometime I might hop on TF2 with you guys as well. Been a while since I've played that too, and I'm starting to get mild cravings. I typically play Scout, Spy or Pyro.

EDIT: saw you found the text, so I gave it a read. Pretty cool that your gf likes that game, though I could sort of see why. Valve makes great games and seem to excel in adding tons of flavor to their characters. Every L4D and TF2 character have very detailed personalities like a good show. Difference is, when you're playing those games you ARE the show, haha.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thanks for the Boost in confidence.







I know you were getting frustrated that time we tried BF2.







I sux at it as well.


 You're welcome.









As for BF2, I've played the Battlefield series since their inception (BF1942 Beta), I actually got booted off of tech tv's lanparty because I just mowed down and took over a map almost single handedly (had good air support) in a matter of 5 minutes.
And no I wasn't getting frustrated, whenever you want to play drop me a line. I just gotta reinstall it since I just reinstalled the OS.

Speaking of which, well the lock up issue came back, but on the good side the weird rebooting over and over again stopped









But everything is still working smoothly.









EDIT:
Quote:



Originally Posted by *timxirish*


Sometime I might hop on TF2 with you guys as well. Been a while since I've played that too, and I'm starting to get mild cravings. I typically play Scout, Spy or Pyro.


 Right on I think we should make a 939 appreciation club TF2 game night








EDIT2: Or whatever game we all have thats multiplayer of course


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *timxirish*


Valve makes great games and seem to excel in adding tons of flavor to their characters. Every L4D and TF2 character have very detailed personalities like a good show. Difference is, when you're playing those games you ARE the show, haha.


Yup yup nom nom, she can't stand most FPS games like TF2 BF2 UT3 and COD4. I duno but someting about L4D she likes. I guess it's the plot and diff voices and characters and commerodery between the group of players. Any time. I think I have a rock solid system now. I just have to get an extention for my mic so that I can be on my Lazy Boy







and bring true meaning to the name Lazy Boy...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


You're welcome.









As for BF2, I've played the Battlefield series since their inception (BF1942 Beta), I actually got booted off of tech tv's lanparty because I just mowed down and took over a map almost single handedly (had good air support) in a matter of 5 minutes.
And no I wasn't getting frustrated, whenever you want to play drop me a line. I just gotta reinstall it since I just reinstalled the OS.

Speaking of which, well the lock up issue came back, but on the good side the weird rebooting over and over again stopped









But everything is still working smoothly.









EDIT:

Right on I think we should make a 939 appreciation club TF2 game night








EDIT2: Or whatever game we all have thats multiplayer of course










 I'm down. I still have to install BF2 on my sig as well and get some practice w/my mic and other technical tactics b4 trying again. Heck you'll have to test your new Joy stick when you get it









Edit: I just remembered having a few post's a while back about wifi and gaming. I have been on my Sig rig gaming w/my Belkin USB wifi adaptor and my ping rate seems on par. Then again it could be why I get shot a lot while playing DOD Source IDK then again might be me suxen again lol...


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Yup yup nom nom, she can't stand most FPS games like TF2 BF2 UT3 and COD4. I duno but someting about L4D she likes. I guess it's the plot and diff voices and characters and commerodery between the group of players. Any time. I think I have a rock solid system now. I just have to get an extention for my mic so that I can be on my Lazy Boy







and bring true meaning to the name Lazy Boy...

I'm down. I still have to install BF2 on my sig as well and get some practice w/my mic and other technical tactics b4 trying again. Heck you'll have to test your new Joy stick when you get it









Edit: I just remembered having a few post's a while back about wifi and gaming. I have been on my Sig rig gaming w/my Belkin USB wifi adaptor and my ping rate seems on par. Then again it could be why I get shot a lot while playing DOD Source IDK then again might be me suxen again lol...


 Oh yeah I forgot I won that thing







It'll take some getting used to. The people that fly in BF1942 and BF2 are REALLY good usually. But maybe that'll be my equalizer









Now if we could get some of the other 939ers to join in


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Oh yeah I forgot I won that thing







It'll take some getting used to. The people that fly in BF1942 and BF2 are REALLY good usually. But maybe that'll be my equalizer









Now if we could get some of the other 939ers to join in










Don't have that one but do have the three original WWII based COD games. Don't know if I'll get COD4 but it's a possibility.

Speaking of flying, don't even try me in Jane's WWII Fighters - I'll pluck your tail feathers very PAINFULLY.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Oh yeah I forgot I won that thing







It'll take some getting used to. The people that fly in BF1942 and BF2 are REALLY good usually. But maybe that'll be my equalizer









Now if we could get some of the other 939ers to join in










I might hop in with you in BF2/1942 (No 1943 though)

My Cousin & Brother could hop in as well, they are dedicated aces. I've never seen folks dominate the skys like those too. More so with a helicopter. And they don't even use Sticks, I have a Saitek x58 setup, and those guys are using KBM to dominate..it's crazy business.

On a semi serious note: Are you supposed to get a cybernetic implant to fly in Battlefield 2? I can do the old mustangs but anything newer and I'm going down in flames.


----------



## Blitz6804

Sorry, aside of CoD 4 and Wolfenstein 3D, I am really not an FPS gamer. Catch me for the 4x or RTS tourneys.


----------



## N2Gaming

In BF2 I've only ever been able to fly heli's. I crash real fast in the jets. I can't fly the jets and aim my bullets etc w/out flying into the ground and other objects. lol


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spartacus* 
Hey! Sign me up for this club!
I picked up a 939 cpu (3700+) and mobo to build an ultra-cheap htpc!

Spartacus, welcome to the club. We can put you up on the roster as soon as you provide us with a link to your cpu-z validation.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
So guys figured I'd share a pic of my new htpc comeing online.
http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/345...ntestbench.jpg

Hueristic, looking great so far. I remember you posting the "case" a few months back


----------



## timxirish

To illustrate the changes i've been making in my case, I decided to take a few pictures. Also, thlnk3r, I see why you suggested mounting the HR-05 with something other than those plastic push pegs.. Kinda slides around a bit.. I guess I could dremel a few screws down to size and fasten it with some small hex nuts, but for now I just wanted to get it in and done with.



Since everything else was in and mounted, I decided I'd try and figure out what direction I should mount my heatsink. This is the only way it'll fit-- if i flip it around, the ends of the heat pipe touch my video card. This is probably the orientation intended, but as for now I'm going to have to wait on installing it.



Pretty freakin' cramped in there, if I do say so myself. Liberal use of zip ties, but unfortunately no duct tape.... this time.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Don't have that one but do have the three original WWII based COD games. Don't know if I'll get COD4 but it's a possibility.

Speaking of flying, don't even try me in Jane's WWII Fighters - I'll pluck your tail feathers very PAINFULLY.










 I've got most of the COD series too. I dont have 3 or 4 but I did get WAW with my folding gpus.
I don;t have any flight sims but that might soon change









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


I might hop in with you in BF2/1942 (No 1943 though)

My Cousin & Brother could hop in as well, they are dedicated aces. I've never seen folks dominate the skys like those too. More so with a helicopter. And they don't even use Sticks, I have a Saitek x58 setup, and those guys are using KBM to dominate..it's crazy business.

On a semi serious note: Are you supposed to get a cybernetic implant to fly in Battlefield 2? I can do the old mustangs but anything newer and I'm going down in flames.










 Well in BF1942 the planes are "slow" so they're easy to fly. However I actually prefer the Desert Combat mod for it. Its pretty sweet, I actually like the way the jets/helis fly in that better than BF2.
And I don't know of any implants to fly. I just hop ina plane and go. Me and a friend learned how to fly pretty well just using the KB. I can hover the choppers and all that. I can even fly the Hind no problem.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Sorry, aside of CoD 4 and Wolfenstein 3D, I am really not an FPS gamer. Catch me for the 4x or RTS tourneys.


 I was thinking of picking up COD4. A good friend of mine plays it all the time.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


In BF2 I've only ever been able to fly heli's. I crash real fast in the jets. I can't fly the jets and aim my bullets etc w/out flying into the ground and other objects. lol


 The best place to learn is BF1942 desert combat mod. Get lots of altitude and practice aiming at random target. In BF1942/DC mod theres not as much terrain, so you dont have to worry about it as much.


----------



## Blitz6804

timxirish: In blowdown coolers like ours, the best scenario is to have the pipes oriented that the tips point up. My motherboard precludes this, and I can only put them left or right, but it appears yours is no so limited. Unless of course you have a case like Joe's new one, in which case, you would need it the other way around.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
timxirish: In blowdown coolers like ours, the best scenario is to have the pipes oriented that the tips point up.

If you look at Picture 3, you can note that he does have the pipes pointing towards the top of his board









But I will agree, for down-draft coolers, it's best to point the pipes to the top.


----------



## suicideidiot321

hey i have a 939! however, it is not working atm, as i dont have a case, but i have an AMD sempron, no idea which one exactly but its at 1.6GHZ i have been dying to get it going, i have an awsome elitegroup mobo (AGP only, oh well) and im ready to get it started (im aware that i need a CPUz picture to be in the club, so im not trying to get in rather than informing of my interest)


----------



## timxirish

@blitz6804 and Tater Tot:
Interesting information. Wasn't aware that pipe orientation made a true difference, but I guess it makes sense. Briefly researched how heatpipes worked at one point anyway, but yes, the tips will definitely be pointing up once my mounting problems are solved.

For now I decided I'd slightly clean my rat nest of wires and close up the case. Before I closed it up, I made sure to at least put in my old stock heatsink.. Dont want to accidently turn my rig on w/o any cooling period anyway.







.. Going to be using my Lanbox as my main PC until then.

So far the lanbox is doing leaps and bounds better with my old HSF (Tt Blue Orb II), as temps have dropped from 78c to 38c. 40c shaved off my temps aint bad.









The cooler sure isn't anything stellar, but it's probably the best this case will hold (as far as I know). That's fine with me anyhow-- this is more of a backup/mobile rig.



@suicideidiot321: Very cool. Best of luck to you on getting that rig up and running.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *timxirish*


Also, thlnk3r, I see why you suggested mounting the HR-05 with something other than those plastic push pegs.. Kinda slides around a bit..


Timxirish, oh man you're telling me. Those plastic pins hardly even work. This is like the only thing I dislike about the DFI boards...the placement of the nForce 4 chip. Half the time I can't get around my video card with my HR-05. Arg









Quote:



Originally Posted by *suicideidiot321*


hey i have a 939! however, it is not working atm, as i dont have a case, but i have an AMD sempron, no idea which one exactly but its at 1.6GHZ


Suicideidiot321, I look forward to the build. I remember some of those old Sempron 64 2800+ (1.6Ghz) were overclocking beasts. Hopefully your board offers some nice OC'ing features.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


If you look at Picture 3, you can note that he does have the pipes pointing towards the top of his board










Right, I said that (emph addeded):
Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


My motherboard precludes this, and I can only put them left or right, *but it appears yours is no so limited*.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *timxirish*


but yes, the tips will definitely be pointing up once my mounting problems are solved.


I thought the mounting problem arose when the tips faced the GPU, not away. Does your case have an inverted motherboard mount and so the pipes must face the GPU?


----------



## BlackOmega

ARG! Whats going on with OCN again? Nothings updating for me. When I click new posts I get posts from 8 hours ago :swearing:

And now I can't find the spot to report problems either...









EDIT: Found the report bug page.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Does your case have an inverted motherboard mount and so the pipes must face the GPU?


Blitz, inverted motherboard? Are you referring to BTX style? It looks like to me he has a standard ATX style case.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Right on I think we should make a 939 appreciation club TF2 game night








EDIT2: Or whatever game we all have thats multiplayer of course









Sounds good, Actually I think I have a cod4 copy but never installed it.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Sorry, aside of CoD 4 and Wolfenstein 3D, I am really not an FPS gamer. Catch me for the 4x or RTS tourneys.

maybe we can take a vote each week on the game to play?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
In BF2 I've only ever been able to fly heli's. I crash real fast in the jets. I can't fly the jets and aim my bullets etc w/out flying into the ground and other objects. lol























We will send you to the other team to help us!

HEY BO, Are you Owning TF2 with your 939 System!? That would be great! And Thread Worthy in the games section!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Are you Owning TF2 with your 939 System!? That would be great! And Thread Worthy in the games section!









Hueristic, I use to play TF2 none stop on my Opteron 170 and 4850. The game was solid. Loved playing it on my S939. Mach4 map baby


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Sounds good, Actually I think I have a cod4 copy but never installed it.

HEY BO, Are you Owning TF2 with your 939 System!? That would be great! And Thread Worthy in the games section!









Well I dont have COD4 (yet), but I do have world at war that I got with those Asus GPU's I ordered for folding. Which are actually sitting in their respective anti-static bags.
Might trade one of my copies of WAW for COD4.









And yeah, with the 4870's I get great frame rates. As for owning it depends on the map. If I've played it before I usually do really well, maps like orange_x3, 2fort.
It also depends on the team, kind of sucks if you don't have any medics to heal your heavies, or any (good) snipers to take out the other teams snipers.
last night my team was getting owned pretty hard due to the teams being hella stacked and maps I haven't played at all or often.

But there are games that we can play that are free, like the BF1942 demo. Its MP and you get one of the best maps in the game, Wake Island. It's actually a really fun game, although if there isn't a lot of people there's not a whole hell of a lot of action.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Hueristic, I use to play TF2 none stop on my Opteron 170 and 4850. The game was solid. Loved playing it on my S939. Mach4 map baby

















I haven't played TF since it was a mod for hl1.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Well I dont have COD4 (yet), but I do have world at war that I got with those Asus GPU's I ordered for folding. Which are actually sitting in their respective anti-static bags.
Might trade one of my copies of WAW for COD4.









And yeah, with the 4870's I get great frame rates. As for owning it depends on the map. If I've played it before I usually do really well, maps like orange_x3, 2fort.
It also depends on the team, kind of sucks if you don't have any medics to heal your heavies, or any (good) snipers to take out the other teams snipers.
last night my team was getting owned pretty hard due to the teams being hella stacked and maps I haven't played at all or often.

But there are games that we can play that are free, like the BF1942 demo. Its MP and you get one of the best maps in the game, Wake Island. It's actually a really fun game, although if there isn't a lot of people there's not a whole hell of a lot of action.

Well Iused to play DOD for years (On realistic servers) And I was the Sniper you didn't want to run into!







So I think I could get back on track (Unless it's a bunny hop fest). I don't play games like Q3 that are 100% stress fests. AFA COD4 I'll check l8r (I think thats what it is, 5 cd's?)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Well I used to play DOD for years (On realistic servers) And I was the Sniper you didn't want to run into!







So I think I could get back on track (Unless it's a bunny hop fest). I don't play games like Q3 that are 100% stress fests.

Hueristic, man I miss Day of Defeat. It was pretty good before it went to Source. It still is a good game but it's much different now hehe.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Hueristic, man I miss Day of Defeat. It was pretty good before it went to Source. It still is a good game but it's much different now hehe.

Yeah, 1.1 was the shizle! 2.0 was great too! But yeah source ruined alot of games. Kids these days don't get it cause they just want adreneline fixes. We got those with doom and quake.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 







I haven't played TF since it was a mod for hl1.
Well Iused to play DOD for years (On realistic servers) And I was the Sniper you didn't want to run into!







So I think I could get back on track (Unless it's a bunny hop fest). I don't play games like Q3 that are 100% stress fests. AFA COD4 I'll check l8r (I think thats what it is, 5 cd's?)

I haven't played DoD in years. That game was really cool.









If you look at my stats in TF2 I have well over double the time played as a sniper than any other class.








In CS/CSS I used to play awp maps all the time, I used to be evil with that thing. I've actually gotten banned from several servers because they thought I was hacking.







newbs.....

The rest of you guys, would you all be willing to try some BF1942? The demo is obviously free and its multiplayer. You can download it here.
And since its an older title, any of us with a halfway decent GPU can max it, regardless of resolution.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I haven't played DoD in years. That game was really cool.









If you look at my stats in TF2 I have well over double the time played as a sniper than any other class.








In CS/CSS I used to play awp maps all the time, I used to be evil with that thing. I've actually gotten banned from several servers because they thought I was hacking.







newbs.....

The rest of you guys, would you all be willing to try some BF1942? The demo is obviously free and its multiplayer. You can download it here.
And since its an older title, any of us with a halfway decent GPU can max it, regardless of resolution.


Dnloading now but will be leaving shortly and If I get home in the shape I expect I may not be able to see the screen let alone play!


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz, inverted motherboard? Are you referring to BTX style? It looks like to me he has a standard ATX style case.

I mean as like the Lian-Li Joe got from you; that is an inverted case. To me though, the case looks like a standard ATX, so I was unsure of why there would be a fit issue.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hi guys just got the 2x EVGA 8800GTS 640mb EK water blocked video cards and both of them have water damage and shipping damage.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I mean as like the Lian-Li Joe got from you; that is an inverted case. To me though, the case looks like a standard ATX, so I was unsure of why there would be a fit issue.


Blitz, ah ok I know what you're saying now.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hi guys just got the 2x EVGA 8800GTS 640mb EK water blocked video cards and both of them have water damage and shipping damage.


N2Gaming, please keep this type of stuff via PM's. If you feel you were "ripped" off then please contact alexgheseger or prosser13 directly.

Thanks


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Bleh, you twitch-muscle gamers...









I'm not much good in shooters; I *may* be a bit better than Blitzy, but that's totally unproven.

But racing sims are much more my forte.









I miss racing with pio, come to think of it. Blitzy, too, though in his case it's more a case of him being in the same race as us, as opposed to him actually racing against us.























(I kid! I kid!)

Seriously, though, I wish more of us could get around to racing.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, please keep this type of stuff via PM's. If you feel you were "ripped" off then please contact alexgheseger or prosser13 directly.

Thanks










 Thank you thlnk3r.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thank you thlnk3r.


N2Gaming, no problem. Hope things get squared away for you.


----------



## Blitz6804

txtmstrjoe: Yeah, because you refuse to play with us every time we boot up the game. Maybe sometime next week we can finally prove it?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
txtmstrjoe: Yeah, because you refuse to play with us every time we boot up the game. Maybe sometime next week we can finally prove it?

Blitz, hold on a second here. Is that trash talk I see above?


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah; maybe can finally prove the unproven statement that he is SLIGHTLY better than me in FPS games. (Yes, that is intended to trash myself.)


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Bleh, you twitch-muscle gamers...









I'm not much good in shooters; I *may* be a bit better than Blitzy, but that's totally unproven.

But racing sims are much more my forte.









I miss racing with pio, come to think of it. Blitzy, too, though in his case it's more a case of him being in the same race as us, as opposed to him actually racing against us.























(I kid! I kid!)

Seriously, though, I wish more of us could get around to racing.









OHH noes you didnt'!!!
Called Blitz Blitzy!!!

BTW me N2 BO and Nate and some others have all got together for NFSHS. Maybe we can add that to the list.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Yeah; maybe can finally prove the unproven statement that he is SLIGHTLY better than me in FPS games. (Yes, that is intended to trash myself.)

Well I may be going to the hospital instead of out to celebrate my B-Day, Seems my Step-Ma who just got out of the hospital may be going back in. ;(


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Bleh, you twitch-muscle gamers...









I'm not much good in shooters; I *may* be a bit better than Blitzy, but that's totally unproven.

But racing sims are much more my forte.









I miss racing with pio, come to think of it. Blitzy, too, though in his case it's more a case of him being in the same race as us, as opposed to him actually racing against us.























(I kid! I kid!)

Seriously, though, I wish more of us could get around to racing.









Actually you might like BF1942 as there isn't as much 1 on1 combat as other games such as CSS or even the Call of Duty series. There are a lot of different type of vehicles at your disposal from tanks to boats (aircraft carriers, Lcups, Subs) to jeeps, armored personnel carriers, to Zero's, Corsairs, medium bombers and full size B2 bombers.
Thats what I really loved about BF1942 was that it added a completely new aspect to gaming. Download the demo and see how you like it, I think you might enjoy the vehicle aspect of the game.

And what racing game did you have in mind? I was a big fan of Gran Turismo 1 & 2, aftre that I thought that the games weren't very realistic anymore.


----------



## N2Gaming

Group prayer time. I hope all is well w/her and that she get's better soon.


----------



## thlnk3r

Hueristic, hope everything goes well.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Blitzy: How about you and me, CoD4, sometime next week?

I have the severe disadvantage of not having played the game in MP ever, plus not having even played the game in many months.







I will feel no shame if you beat me to four kills out of seven.


----------



## BlackOmega

Get Well Hue's step ma!


----------



## Hueristic

THX, Guys. I'm still waiting on the phone call.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Get Well Hue's step ma!

Ditto from me as well.


----------



## Hueristic

I'll pass that on. I'm sure it will cheer here up.


----------



## Blitz6804

I concur; my humblest sympathies and sincerest hopes for fast recovery.

Txtmstrjoe: My normal kill ratio against DesertRat, DesertDog, Pioneerisloud, and others is around 1 kill for every 3-5 deaths depending on the map. I think me getting 4 out of 7 is a very ambitious hope.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Bleh, you twitch-muscle gamers...









I'm not much good in shooters; I *may* be a bit better than Blitzy, but that's totally unproven.

But racing sims are much more my forte.









I miss racing with pio, come to think of it. Blitzy, too, though in his case it's more a case of him being in the same race as us, as opposed to him actually racing against us.























(I kid! I kid!)

Seriously, though, I wish more of us could get around to racing.










First and most importantly well wishes and prayers for a speedy recovery for your Step-mom Hueristic. 
Hoping all goes well since I'm kinda in the same boat with my Mother-In-Law. She is in the latter stages of Alzheimers and can't speak, can barely walk now and it's progressing each day. Obviously she cannot relate to us anymore for the most part and the wife has been staying with her to help out as she can.

Not great in shooters as was proven in COD. I was usually the easy target of choice BUT for some reason I could snipe fairly well and if we were in the map called "Rocket", I was a terror to even the best we had playing. That's where my favorite weapon, the Flamethrower was useful along with grenades. Still have a collection of maps and weapon mods we used in that one.

As to driving games, all I need is a little time and I can do well with those. Normally I'd PO the guys in Gran Turismo via the PS2 since I'd smoke 'em everytime, esp on the road courses with alot of sharp curves and the like since they'd go off in the weeds and I usually didn't. I'd have to say I prefer racing games overall but flying games are something I'm fairly good at too.

Flying sims vary for me and of course Jane's is my specialty. I've even written mission files and submitted them for the sim, created these with cimemas in the mission opening and everything and these are hosted here: http://www.ww2fighters.org/ Username "Rockhead". You know how pilot handles go and that's what they called me when flying with our online group, the "Wannabees". We had a Ventrilo server setup for voice comms and it worked well and that was also used with our COD gaming for comms and trash-talk when we cared to do that to each other.









I also have Pacific Fighters onhand but never really got into the IL2 series.
I do however LOVE the sub-sim Silent Hunter series and have SHII, SHIII and SH4 here.


----------



## Hueristic

Well, She is all right but didn't make it out for me B-day but She's really pleased with all the Well wish's and prayers from here (She's super religious). You guys really made her night, She had no clue online communities were so close.









Thx again guys.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Well, She is all right but didn't make it out for me B-day but She's really pleased with all the Well wish's and prayers from here (She's super religious). You guys really made her night, She had no clue online communities were so close.









Thx again guys.

Happy Birthday Hue and hope your Ma feels better, sorry I didn't see it earlier. This thread moves to quickly.


----------



## Blitz6804

If anyone wonders where I am, I am on the NYS Thruway for the near foreseeable future. As usual, I will be spottily connected until I get back up to Buffalo sometime next week.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Well, She is all right but didn't make it out for me B-day but She's really pleased with all the Well wish's and prayers from here (She's super religious). You guys really made her night, She had no clue online communities were so close.









Thx again guys.


Just got caught up in this thread, so
1.) glad your Mum's well. I wish a quick and speedy recovery back to 100%. 
2.) I'm a day late, and a dollar short, but Happy Birth Day Hue!

AND FINALLY!

I'll send you a week old cake if you want?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Well, She is all right but didn't make it out for me B-day but She's really pleased with all the Well wish's and prayers from here (She's super religious). You guys really made her night, She had no clue online communities were so close.









Thx again guys.

Your welcome. Looks as if you did not drink to much last night.







Did you get any thing special for your B-Day?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Happy Birthday Hue and hope your Ma feels better, sorry I didn't see it earlier. This thread moves to quickly.










Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Just got caught up in this thread, so
1.) glad your Mum's well. I wish a quick and speedy recovery back to 100%.
2.) I'm a day late, and a dollar short, but Happy Birth Day Hue!

AND FINALLY!

I'll send you a week old cake if you want?


Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Your welcome. Looks as if you did not drink to much last night.







Did you get any thing special for your B-Day?









THX for the thought guys. She will be ok, She Is massively obese and is paying for it.







She just got out 2 days ago and lost 30lbs while in there and didn't want to leave but I guess they needed the room (talked to my dad :$60k for 2 Weeks!!!!). This country is hosed.

My favorite B-Day present Largest steak I could find! And my family sends me money (they know I'm broke these days). I was going to spend it getting *****faced last night but with my dad having to get back home and being stuffed and ... I just didn't have the energy! NOW that proves I'm OLD!!!!!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
My favorite B-Day present Largest steak I could find! And my family sends me money (they know I'm broke these days). I was going to spend it getting *****faced last night but with my dad having to get back home and being stuffed and ... I just didn't have the energy! NOW that proves I'm OLD!!!!!

Yeah GFO sux ax


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


OHH noes you didnt'!!!
Called Blitz Blitzy!!!

BTW me N2 BO and Nate and some others have all got together for NFSHS. Maybe we can add that to the list.

Well I may be going to the hospital instead of out to celebrate my B-Day, Seems my Step-Ma who just got out of the hospital may be going back in. ;(


There was waaaaaaaay too much downtime while we were trying to get set up in the menu though







.

Sucks about your stepmother, hope she doesn't have to go back in.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
There was waaaaaaaay too much downtime while we were trying to get set up in the menu though







.

Sucks about your stepmother, hope she doesn't have to go back in.

Yeah, she's fine. I think she was just afraid for him to leave for a few hours. Being fragile can do alot of bad things to a person.









AFA the setup time, I think I got that fixed with my install I made.


----------



## timxirish

Best wishes to her, Hueristic. Also, happy belated birthday







. As another person mentioned, this thread does move pretty fast, haha.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


AFA the setup time, I think I got that fixed with my install I made.


If you want to put it up again I will DL your update to my sig rig just in case we have any other takers. Oh yeah I would be able to race on my TV sitting in my Lazy boy.


----------



## Kryton

Leaning back towards 939 related stuff here, I had a close call last night. 
My CPU waterblock sprung a leak and came close to hosing the DFI. Didn't even know it until I saw the mouse sitting in a puddle of water - That's how close it was. No warnings or anything until the machine locked up and had to reboot. After doing that is when I noticed the puddle and quickly shut every thing down to fix it. 
The machine is OK, so I went ahead and setup my 754 DFI for now. Have some benching to do with it over the holiday weekend and got it ready to go.

I have a Mobile 2600 Sempy coming to me I need to torture when it arrives. U know what I mean.....


----------



## BlackOmega

Happy bday Hue







If I didn't already wish you one.... err......um....









Well I got the joystick I won from the foldathon and well, I guess I'm not the best pilot







I can fly just fine but those people online are damn good. I've only played bf1942 so far and actually managed to get a few kills









The joystick is pretty sweet, if you guys dont know I won a Saitek Cyborg Evo. This thing has all sorts of crazy adjustments all over the place and a ton of buttons. I'm still not sure if I'm supposed to put it between my legs or just hold it. Still getting used to it.

And come to think of it. Hue, I've got a Bday preset for you. We'll discuss it via PM.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *timxirish* 
Best wishes to her, Hueristic. Also, happy belated birthday







. As another person mentioned, this thread does move pretty fast, haha.

Thx, Nah this thread don't move fast







It only seems to cruiae at light speed when I have to get something else done and I come back to 10 pages!









Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
If you want to put it up again I will DL your update to my sig rig just in case we have any other takers. Oh yeah I would be able to race on my TV sitting in my Lazy boy.









I'll put it up again tomorrow, If we start playing it again I may have to finish getting my Wheel setup! then your gonna pay!! Mohahahaha!!!!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Happy bday Hue







If I didn't already wish you one.... err......um....









Well I got the joystick I won from the foldathon and well, I guess I'm not the best pilot







I can fly just fine but those people online are damn good. I've only played bf1942 so far and actually managed to get a few kills









The joystick is pretty sweet, if you guys dont know I won a Saitek Cyborg Evo. This thing has all sorts of crazy adjustments all over the place and a ton of buttons. I'm still not sure if I'm supposed to put it between my legs or just hold it. Still getting used to it.

And come to think of it. Hue, I've got a Bday preset for you. We'll discuss it via PM.

Yeah that is one sweet stick! I'd get lost just looking at it let alone useing it!
Great Present Br0! Did I mention I have one next week too!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


My CPU waterblock sprung a leak and came close to hosing the DFI. Didn't even know it until I saw the mouse sitting in a puddle of water - That's how close it was. No warnings or anything until the machine locked up and had to reboot. After doing that is when I noticed the puddle and quickly shut every thing down to fix it. 
The machine is OK, so I went ahead and setup my 754 DFI for now.


Kryton, woohoo close call my friend. This is another reason why sometimes I hesitate leaving air cooling and going to H2O. I have this paranoid feeling I'm going to wake up to the same dilemma. I'm sure this doesn't happen all the time though. Glad you didn't have any damage to report.

Good luck, don't torture the 2600 sempy too much


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Kryton, woohoo close call my friend. This is another reason why sometimes I hesitate leaving air cooling and going to H2O. I have this paranoid feeling I'm going to wake up to the same dilemma. I'm sure this doesn't happen all the time though. Glad you didn't have any damage to report.

Good luck, don't torture the 2600 sempy too much










The greater the risk, the greater the reward.









In preparation of torturing the Mobile 2600 when it gets here, went ahead and pounded on my 3700+ Newark today and pulled off a nice run with it. If I can get it running cooler, it can go faster yet. 
Need to post up in the 1M PI thread with this one.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Kryton, nice work there!


----------



## Hueristic

1.8v!!!! Your insane!







I like that in a person.

Looks Like PIO doesn't hold the crown anymore


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
1.8v!!!! Your insane!







I like that in a person.

Looks Like PIO doesn't hold the crown anymore
















You should see what I've done with my Socket A's voltage-wise in the past.
Here's a pic of one I've done and this was on air using a Volcano 11.....


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


You should see what I've done with my Socket A's voltage-wise in the past. 
Here's a pic of one I've done and this was on air using a Volcano 11.....










I don't remeber stock voltage for socket A anymore.









Funny I remeber p54:3.5v p55:2.8 k5:3.5 k6:2.4-2.6 Hmm pretty sure pIII's were 1.8v PII 2.8(Kalmath) then dropped to ummm 1.78?

Damn I hate loseing my memory!


----------



## Hueristic

Hey any of you guys gaming? I need a break tonight. PM me if a game is on.


----------



## Blitz6804

All I have on this rig (Intel Core2Duo Merom T7700) is Age of Empires II. If I remember right, Skt A was circa 1.650 V.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


All I have on this rig (Intel Core2Duo Merom T7700) is Age of Empires II. If I remember right, Skt A was circa 1.650 V.


LOLz, I shoulda guessed! Let me see if I have it.


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, I have CoD4 as well, but with a caveat: I do not have my MS Strategic Commander, so I am hard-pressed to play it.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


The greater the risk, the greater the reward.









In preparation of torturing the Mobile 2600 when it gets here, went ahead and pounded on my 3700+ Newark today and pulled off a nice run with it. If I can get it running cooler, it can go faster yet. 
Need to post up in the 1M PI thread with this one.


Kryton, wow man that is a ridiculous overclock LOL. Only you could pull off such an OC. Is this air cooled or on H2O? I'm impressed!

Good luck buddy


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Well, I have CoD4 as well, but with a caveat: I do not have my *MS Strategic Commander,* so I am hard-pressed to play it.


??? I still haven't dug that one up yet, I bsod' when I was searching for AOE2. Found a bad grounf on a molex connector so hopefully that was the issue! Damn ghetto setup! I need my rma's antec. Trying to get an eta with them is like pulling teeth! waiting on reply email. I'll try to call them itomorrow if i get no responce, MAN antec has really gone down hill


----------



## Blitz6804

Ask, and ye shall receive. (MS Strat Con.) See also software.


----------



## Hueristic

installing bf1943 as we speak


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


You should see what I've done with my Socket A's voltage-wise in the past. 
Here's a pic of one I've done and this was on air using a Volcano 11.....










What board/CPU was that Kryton?

I got to 2.6ghz on a Socket A with 2.2v on an nForce 3 board.

See Rig Here (Quickly filled in the specs off my head, let me know if you want more info on it.)


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Ask, and ye shall receive. (MS Strat Con.) See also software.


You use a joystick with AOE2????


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
What board/CPU was that Kryton?

I got to 2.6ghz on a Socket A with 2.2v on an nForce 3 board.

See Rig Here (Quickly filled in the specs off my head, let me know if you want more info on it.)

My nephew blew up 5 socket A's if that counts!







I told him the hs was wrong but don't try to tell a 16 year old that knows everthing!


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Kryton, wow man that is a ridiculous overclock LOL. Only you could pull off such an OC. Is this air cooled or on H2O? I'm impressed!

Good luck buddy









thlnk3r it's H2O.

Since I'm literally using the same WC'ing components from my 939, it should be capable of some crazy stuff too. The CPU and chipset block work with either and the layout between these two systems is fairly close but not I'm not suprised since both MB's are DFI's.

@ TaterTot:

That's a Sempron 3000+ Barton core in a Abit AN7 on air. Ran that last Feburary when I had some good ambient temps or that would not have been possible.
BTW, Socket A was never used with a NF3 chipset - NF2 only with those.

I also have a XP 3200+ and a Abit NF7 around here too....


----------



## Blitz6804

Nah man. Its a digital keyboard emulator. I use it for Call of Duty 4 or any other FPS. (You assign WASD to two axes, Q/E to the third if the game calls for it, and then the buttons each get a feature, be it reloading, changing weapons, whatever.) I tried playing AoE with the Strat Com (comes with two profiles for it) but I really did not need it much. The only thing I can think of needing it for would be to make an army faster. It is easier to press one button then to press ctrl+B, shft+S to make five champions at the nearest barracks.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
My nephew blew up 5 socket A's if that counts!







I told him the hs was wrong but don't try to tell a 16 year old that knows everthing!

















I have never sent a rig to it's death, but I did come close. My brothers old XPS (Pentium 4 & Radeon 9800 PRO) as we have done a few software/BIOS suicides on that thing.

Most don't know this, but older Dell XPS's allow for mild overclocking (300mhz on that one) which isn't huge, but it is nice to know you can move it just a tad faster.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 







I have never sent a rig to it's death, but I did come close. My brothers old XPS (Pentium 4 & Radeon 9800 PRO) as we have done a few software/BIOS suicides on that thing.

Most don't know this, but older Dell XPS's allow for mild overclocking (300mhz on that one) which isn't huge, but it is nice to know you can move it just a tad faster.

He needed to learn a lesson and follow directions! I didn't expect him to toast them all before smartening up though! We had just got the barton 3200 too.









Ohh well hope he learned something.


----------



## BlackOmega

Sorry for the double post, but did you guys see the special on steam for fall out 3 $24.99 50% off! I had to pick it up.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
RIght on let me know when you get er all up and running, we'll go do some crazy stuff









Well I tried out the joystick with IL2 sturmovik 1946 and it seems I'm not the best pilot. Or even remotely close, that game has soooo many crazy settings its not funny. At any rate, I think I managed to crash about 10 times without even leaving the ground.









Practice makes perfect I suppose.

That's why I never got into the IL2 series like alot of others did. Pacific Fighters has so many things you have to do, you'd have to spend hours just trying to figure out a decent way to fly. I also had a problem with the Up/Down directional control being inverted and never could figure out how to fix that. Even trying to configure the stick didn't work, it just did it so I set that one aside.


----------



## Hueristic

I'll gewt back on this asap BO, I'm done and gotta crash.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Sorry for the double post, but did you guys see the special on steam for fall out 3 $24.99 50% off! I had to pick it up.

I saw fallout 3 today @ walmart but don't remember the price. I also saw a couple of other games I would like to get. So I wrote down the names and figured I would google them to see what kind of prices they come up with. Crysis Maximum Edition, 10th Anniversary Medal of Honor, Call of Juarez & a couple of other little cheap $9.99 games like Marine Sharp Shooter Trilogy & Hidden Expectations Amazon.

If Fallout 3 is not a valve game then I would rather buy the box DVD and get the User manual and case for a discount on ebay or some other software store that has a sell on games all the time.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
@ TaterTot:

That's a Sempron 3000+ Barton core in a Abit AN7 on air. Ran that last Feburary when I had some good ambient temps or that would not have been possible.
BTW, Socket A was never used with a NF3 chipset - NF2 only with those.

I also have a XP 3200+ and a Abit NF7 around here too....

















My mistake. The Abit NF7-S2 is an amazing board I must say.

I did my run on AIR though, so I could have never kept it 24/7 stable.

If I ever got, or made, a Socket A watercooling setup I probably could though, as my basement ambient only spikes @ 25*C on the hottest days of the summer. (In Missouri) It's usually 18-20*C during the Winter, which is a great time & temp for suicide runs.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*









My mistake. The Abit NF7-S2 is an amazing board I must say.

I did my run on AIR though, so I could have never kept it 24/7 stable.

If I ever got, or made, a Socket A watercooling setup I probably could though, as my basement ambient only spikes @ 25*C on the hottest days of the summer. (In Missouri) It's usually 18-20*C during the Winter, which is a great time & temp for suicide runs.










Mine is a regular NF7 2.0 board. It's a good one but doesn't clock well since it isn't modded. Just as stock as the day it was born. Here in Bama, we do get some cool temps but they don't last long at all, I'd say for around 2 weeks then things start warming up again.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Mine is a regular NF7 2.0 board. It's a good one but doesn't clock well since it isn't modded. Just as stock as the day it was born. Here in Bama, we do get some cool temps but they don't last long at all, I'd say for around 2 weeks then things start warming up again.


You just need to dig your basement deeper.

I'm quite happy with Missouri.

My basement stays chilly all year round for Man-Cave related affairs, while the outside world gets a mix of Summer & Sun, or Winter & Snow.

The only thing we don't have that I love is surfing. But hey, you can't have the world..right?


----------



## timxirish

Got a new CPU-Z to add to my 939 list.









This one is a _*different*_ Opteron 165 than my first too, and it's in my Lanbox rig (which i'm currently using as my main). This Opteron 165 has officially replaced my Athlon 64 3500+, so it can either get a {s}{/s} through it or just be removed from the first post.

Here's my CPU-Z screenie with SuperPi results, and a validation link underneath.




At the moment, it's borrowing 2GB from my main rig (3GB is noticibly better, and sooo much nicer than I thought it would be







). Currently runs at 51C on average, and it's about a 20% overclock. It's a shame this case doesn't have the best cooling. Very easy to move around though...


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *timxirish* 
Got a new CPU-Z to add to my 939 list.









This one is a _*different*_ Opteron 165 than my first too, and it's in my Lanbox rig (which i'm currently using as my main). This Opteron 165 has officially replaced my Athlon 64 3500+, so it can either get a {s}{/s} through it or just be removed from the first post.

Here's my CPU-Z screenie with SuperPi results, and a validation link underneath.
At the moment, it's borrowing 2GB from my main rig (3GB is noticibly better, and sooo much nicer than I thought it would be







). Currently runs at 51C on average, and it's about a 20% overclock. It's a shame this case doesn't have the best cooling. Very easy to move around though...

What HS are you useing? I've got a non heat pipe on mine and can run [email protected] My chip is also a JH9E6
I expect 300 24/7 when I get a Heatpiped hs on it. I've run it @300 but the temp levels at like 65c. I'm so bold as to run it at that 24/7 folding.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


You just need to dig your basement deeper.

I'm quite happy with Missouri.

My basement stays chilly all year round for Man-Cave related affairs, while the outside world gets a mix of Summer & Sun, or Winter & Snow.

The only thing we don't have that I love is surfing. But hey, you can't have the world..right?










If only I had a basement - That would be much better than what I have to work with here. 
Getting ready to mow the lawn today and it's HOT outside. Good thing is the humidity isn't bad today but it's there all the same. May wait until later this afternoon before going for it when I have some shade on the backside to work in. After that, time to do some maintenance on my bike since it needs the attention. That's a priority since the valves are beginning to get a tad noisy plus the plugs have alot of miles on them too.


----------



## Blitz6804

Nice timxirish; I love to see when people get more 939 love running.

For the record, back home is a nice 63Âº F, here is 75Âº F right now.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


That's why I never got into the IL2 series like alot of others did. Pacific Fighters has so many things you have to do, you'd have to spend hours just trying to figure out a decent way to fly. I also had a problem with the Up/Down directional control being inverted and never could figure out how to fix that. Even trying to configure the stick didn't work, it just did it so I set that one aside.


 Well I was able to finally get the thing off the ground, but it seems like you're flying forever with nothing going on. Then if you try to do any stunts like barrel rolls (flaps in combat position) you lose control of the thing stall and crash.







Its like as soon as you go upside down the thing goes haywire and you spin radically out of control.

Then I tried flying the choppers on the Desert Combat mod for BF1942, well its a lot easier to fly those things with just the KB. But then again I've only had the JS for a couple days.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *timxirish*


Got a new CPU-Z to add to my 939 list.









This one is a _*different*_ Opteron 165 than my first too, and it's in my Lanbox rig (which i'm currently using as my main). This Opteron 165 has officially replaced my Athlon 64 3500+, so it can either get a {s}{/s} through it or just be removed from the first post.

Here's my CPU-Z screenie with SuperPi results, and a validation link underneath.




At the moment, it's borrowing 2GB from my main rig (3GB is noticibly better, and sooo much nicer than I thought it would be







). Currently runs at 51C on average, and it's about a 20% overclock. It's a shame this case doesn't have the best cooling. Very easy to move around though...


 Tim, why is your vcore so high?







It shouldn't need to be that high with a meer 360 MHz jump. I could get mine to 2300MHz pretty easily with no where near that vcore.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


What HS are you useing? I've got a non heat pipe on mine and can run [email protected] My chip is also a JH9E6
I expect 300 24/7 when I get a Heatpiped hs on it. I've run it @300 but the temp levels at like 65c. I'm so bold as to run it at that 24/7 folding.










 Are those coretemps or IHS?


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well I was able to finally get the thing off the ground, but it seems like you're flying forever with nothing going on. Then if you try to do any stunts like barrel rolls (flaps in combat position) you lose control of the thing stall and crash.







Its like as soon as you go upside down the thing goes haywire and you spin radically out of control.

Then I tried flying the choppers on the Desert Combat mod for BF1942, well its a lot easier to fly those things with just the KB. But then again I've only had the JS for a couple days.


That's why I've always liked WWII Fighters. 
Easy to get into and fly but presents enough of a challenge to make it enjoyable. The built-in mission editor is also easy to learn and use, making it even better since you can create custom mission files giving it some real replay value. Only thing is the sim is really old now but even that isn't a negative since you don't need a powerhouse machine to fly it. If you have an old 500MHz machine with a decent videocard and RAM, it can fly it, no problem and it only gets better from there.

The biggest thing is although it's nothing like the games coming out nowadays, it scores big on one important point - It's FUN to fly.

The Jane's site (http://www.ww2fighters.org) is also loaded with mods that takes it to even greater heights and these are all free to download. 
They even have the tools needed to create your own custom skins and flight models too, plus tutorials on how to do it - Also free to download.

Biggest catch to it all is finding a copy of it.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Nice timxirish; I love to see when people get more 939 love running.

For the record, back home is a nice 63Âº F, here is 75Âº F right now.

I BSOD'd when I was running a search for AOE2 last night and just crashed.







may try again today If I have time. Doing a little R&R right now back is in high gear









Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Are those coretemps or IHS?

Core


----------



## thlnk3r

Timxirish, woohoo another opty 165









Let me know when you finalize your overclock and I can add it to the roster.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Tim, why is your vcore so high?







It shouldn't need to be that high with a meer 360 MHz jump. I could get mine to 2300MHz pretty easily with no where near that vcore.

BlackOmega, I have a feeling it's CPU-Z displaying incorrect information again. The Vcore reading isn't always accurate it seems blehh.


----------



## Blitz6804

Again, this is the easiest way to get it. You get Age of Empires, Age of Empires: The Rise of Rome (the expansion pack), Age of Empires II: The Age of Kings, and Age of Empires II: The Conquerors (the expansion pack) in one convenient package. Alternatively, you should be able to find in many stores a copy of Age of Empires II Gold which is The Age of Kings and The Conquerors if you do not wish to play the first game. Since I played AoE before AoK, I can play either. DesertRat tried AoK first, and THEN tried to play AoE, and he immediately uninstalled it after one game. Oh well. Age of Empires II certainly aged better than Age of Empires.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Again, this is the easiest way to get it. You get Age of Empires, Age of Empires: The Rise of Rome (the expansion pack), Age of Empires II: The Age of Kings, and Age of Empires II: The Conquerors (the expansion pack) in one convenient package. Alternatively, you should be able to find in many stores a copy of Age of Empires II Gold which is The Age of Kings and The Conquerors if you do not wish to play the first game. Since I played AoE before AoK, I can play either. DesertRat tried AoK first, and THEN tried to play AoE, and he immediately uninstalled it after one game. Oh well. Age of Empires II certainly aged better than Age of Empires.


Or, I can call my nephew and have him bring my disk over tomorrow!


----------



## timxirish

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


What HS are you useing? I've got a non heat pipe on mine and can run [email protected] My chip is also a JH9E6
I expect 300 24/7 when I get a Heatpiped hs on it. I've run it @300 but the temp levels at like 65c. I'm so bold as to run it at that 24/7 folding.










Using a Thermaltake Blue Orb II, so no heatpipes. I was able to hit ~2.66 w/it and my other opteron on my main rig though, but it could be pushed a bit further). Unfortunately I can't use anything too much bigger due to space issues in my Lanbox.

Here's a sketch I threw together quick:










Black square is a heatsink that sits 3cm tall, grey is my four slots of ram (normally, second slot from the top is the only occupied), red is my video card. The blue is my heatsink, and the lighter shades mean although the space is occupied, more room exists underneath (for example, my ram can sit under the lightest blue shade w/o conflict).

The right side and the back have about .5cm clearance before it touches the side window and exaust fans respectively.
Bottom is generally no issue, left side has 4cm til middle blue hits the heatsink (i have a VC-RE that can replace that HS; will solve any space issue there) and 8cm til outer blue hits my video card. Above, i have 3cm clearance.

tl;dr, this case is cramped







.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Nice timxirish; I love to see when people get more 939 love running.

For the record, back home is a nice 63Âº F, here is 75Âº F right now.


Heh, thanks.









Wow, talk about very cool! Haha, I wish I had temps like that.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Tim, why is your vcore so high?








It shouldn't need to be that high with a meer 360 MHz jump. I could get mine to 2300MHz pretty easily with no where near that vcore.


Now that I think about it, same. Truth be told though, technically I didn't really do anything to get that OC aside from enabling Biostar's overclocking engine (







lol). Call me a bit naive if you'd like, but I actually didn't notice the vcore, so I'll probably go back and fix it the _right_ way.

When I started the PC after installing my old HS I really just wanted quick performance-- Got a little anxious to have a computer running as both my machines had been off for 3-4 hours.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Timxirish, woohoo another opty 165









Let me know when you finalize your overclock and I can add it to the roster.


Yup







. Bought this one from Lemans a few months back and am just now getting to see what it (and this matx mobo) can do. It was purchased in a lapped condition, so I almost put it in my main rig.. But since optimal cooling is hard to pull off in this case, I decided it would be best to stay in this rig. Once I replace my Radeon X800 with a newer card, this'll finally be ready for actual lan parties.









Anyhow, I'll adjust the overclock and remove the extra 2GB (can't be cheating myself now...







) and will repost stating the new data as finalized.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Again, this is the easiest way to get it. You get Age of Empires, Age of Empires: The Rise of Rome (the expansion pack), Age of Empires II: The Age of Kings, and Age of Empires II: The Conquerors (the expansion pack) in one convenient package. Alternatively, you should be able to find in many stores a copy of Age of Empires II Gold which is The Age of Kings and The Conquerors if you do not wish to play the first game. Since I played AoE before AoK, I can play either. DesertRat tried AoK first, and THEN tried to play AoE, and he immediately uninstalled it after one game. Oh well. Age of Empires II certainly aged better than Age of Empires.

Blitz, didn't you mention something last week about "off topic" posts?









Quote:


Originally Posted by *timxirish* 
Once I replace my Radeon X800 with a newer card, this'll finally be ready for actual lan parties.

Timxirish, what kind of micro atx case are you running with the Opteron 165? My bad if it was already mentioned. By the way what model X800 are you running? These cards are still awesome!

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Not completely off-topic... you can play AoE on a 939 rig quite handily; I have done quite a large amount on my 939 of it... even if it only needs a PII; or was that a PI?


----------



## TheSandman

AoE needs a P1 AoE needs a PEntium II 266mhz MMX or better


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Not completely off-topic... you can play AoE on a 939 rig quite handily

Apparently you didn't get my hint. Stay on topic please









*cough* http://www.overclock.net/pc-games/


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, I have a feeling it's CPU-Z displaying incorrect information again. The Vcore reading isn't always accurate it seems blehh.


 While it is possible, from what I have noticed with my Ultra-D and CPUz are voltages are right on. I have used everest, smartguardian, speedfan, HWmonitor, S&M, etc. I'm 99% certain that his voltage is just a tad high.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *timxirish*


Now that I think about it, same. Truth be told though, technically I didn't really do anything to get that OC aside from enabling Biostar's overclocking engine (







lol). Call me a bit naive if you'd like, but I actually didn't notice the vcore, so I'll probably go back and fix it the _right_ way.

When I started the PC after installing my old HS I really just wanted quick performance-- Got a little anxious to have a computer running as both my machines had been off for 3-4 hours.


 Yeah I was gonna say, from my somewhat limited experience with the 939 chips, you should be able to get 500 MHz (average) pretty easily with little to no voltage increase. Once you go beyond that is where some chips require voltage. Some chips are golden and can run a 1.2-1.3MHz OC undervolted (that would be nice).
Out of all the chips I have had or still have I can easily attain a 500MHz OC. Hell my opty 180 on my Ultra-D's doesn't even need a voltage bump. On my CFX however, I need to bump it to 1.375v.


----------



## timxirish

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Timxirish, what kind of micro atx case are you running with the Opteron 165? My bad if it was already mentioned. By the way what model X800 are you running? These cards are still awesome!

Good luck

I'm using a Thermaltake Lanbox. Just thinking about it and the space issues, I recall reading a review on the Lanbox that actually included the Blue Orb II by Techpowerup. Doesn't have the same motherboard as the one I have, but hey, gives you a better visual at least.









http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/T.../LanBox/4.html

Only difference is mine is the steel (black) version. Would have like to have had the aluminum version they show in that review, but I couldn't argue with getting it for $60 versus full price for the silver.

As for the X800, it's a MSI RX800 256MB. But yeah, it certainly lasted me quite a long time. I had used it for 5 years up until labor day weekend and bought my nvidia card in the sig rig (geforce 9800, i believe). While it's got decent power... ATI has stated they will not release official drivers for better opengl support. This particularly irritates me as I wished to be able to run XBMC on this PC (so it could double as half HTPC and half a lan party PC), and XBMC requires opengl 2.0. Microsoft's driver for it only has opengl 1.12 or something of the like.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Yeah I was gonna say, from my somewhat limited experience with the 939 chips, you should be able to get 500 MHz (average) pretty easily with little to no voltage increase. Once you go beyond that is where some chips require voltage. Some chips are golden and can run a 1.2-1.3MHz OC undervolted (that would be nice).
Out of all the chips I have had or still have I can easily attain a 500MHz OC. Hell my opty 180 on my Ultra-D's doesn't even need a voltage bump. On my CFX however, I need to bump it to 1.375v.

Definitely hoping this new opteron will perform nicely.. According to lemans, he never really pushed it, so I don't know it's limit just yet.. But I will for sure be content with it running at a solid 2.66ghz. Anything more would be a treat imo







.

Currently away, but sometime tomorrow morning (er.. later in the morning?) I'll try different settings with the machine.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *timxirish* 
Using a Thermaltake Blue Orb II, so no heatpipes. I was able to hit ~2.66 w/it and my other opteron on my main rig though, but it could be pushed a bit further).

Yeah, Once you lower the voltage you should be able to push that cchip alot further with better temps.

AND that BlueOrb is huge!!!!


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
On my CFX however, I need to bump it to 1.375v.

Is this in CPU-Z or the BIOS? That is, is there a Vdroop coming to play somewhere?

For those in the USA: Happy Independence Day!
For those not in the USA: Enjoy your Saturday.


----------



## N2Gaming

My experience w/Thermal Take HSF units are kind of biased. I purchase My first aftermarked cooler and it was a cheap TT TR2 R1 that did not do a good job. So I have crossed TT off my list of HSF solutions because of it. I feel a company should put out products that superseed stock oem units or not even make one and my TT did not superseed my stock OEM HSF. So that is why I don't like TT HSF. Oh yeah and becuase the TT HSF got a bunch of Thermal paste goop on my brand new cpu.

Oh and BTW: *Happy 4th of July* to all our American members.









I only paid $14.99 for it w/free shipping


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Heh, I've had great results with a TT Big Typhoon (first version, the one with the bolt-on retention mechanism). A very underrated HSF for our 90nm dual-cores.


----------



## N2Gaming

Yeah I guess I did not do my homework before I bought the cheapest HSF I could get. Oh well live and learn.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

N2G, which Thermaltake was it?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
N2G, which Thermaltake was it?

TR2 R1 series

Sorry I just edited my previous post.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Heh, looks like the stock cooler for a single-core Athlon64.


----------



## N2Gaming

Yeah that's why I thought it might cool a little better but epic failz on my part for even trying it on a AM2 X2 5400+.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Heh, I've had great results with a TT Big Typhoon (first version, the one with the bolt-on retention mechanism). A very underrated HSF for our 90nm dual-cores.









I thought the Yeah, I can't read!









Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Yeah that's why I thought it might cool a little better but epic failz on my part for even trying it on a AM2 X2 5400+.



















I got to use 2







's in a post! Happy day!

ohh on topic, So I got my htpc (HD started the click of death after the ballistics died and then I had a brown out) backed up on my Opty that's being held together by duct tape!









Almost have the modded ps case done so I'll finally get the new htpc online soon (Probally before antec gets me my ps back for the opty







).

Happy independance DAY!!

How come I don't feel independant or free these days!?!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
How come I don't feel independant or free these days!?!

I don't know but we are loosing more and more of our freedom as time goes by. Higher taxes higher medical bills & insurance rates. Heck we have to pay out the nose to live and in order to do that we must enslave our self's. How ironic is that.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I don't know but we are loosing more and more of our freedom as time goes by. Higher taxes higher medical bills & insurance rates. Heck we have to pay out the nose to live and in order to do that we must enslave our self's. How ironic is that.

Well it *IS* forceing me to spend more time online rather than going out! So someday we will probally need a permit to leave our 939 Rig!
See how I worked that IN! Lolz


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Is this in CPU-Z or the BIOS? That is, is there a Vdroop coming to play somewhere?

For those in the USA: Happy Independence Day!
For those not in the USA: Enjoy your Saturday.


 BIOS, CPUZ show 1.375/ 1.376v. Smart guardian shows 1.37v, I havent installed everest yet, but Im planning on doing so.

I haven't noticed any vdroop whatsoever, it must just have something to do with the board, as we all know, the CFX3200 is one finicky SOB.
I'm just happy that I got the RAID array working on the ULi chipset.







So far, so good, no problems, knock on wood. (Thats my little rap for the day).
\\

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Heh, I've had great results with a TT Big Typhoon (first version, the one with the bolt-on retention mechanism). A very underrated HSF for our 90nm dual-cores.










 Its a GREAT cooler. After I lapped mine, it works AWESOME! It actually beats out my darkknight







and thats on an unlapped CPU. 
On my lapped 3800x2, it does a PHENOMENAL job. I can run it @ 1.55vcore without so much as getting my temps to 55*C at the core.
The base is so large I bet it would work for i7's too.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Happy independence DAY!!

How come I don't feel independent or free these days!?!


 Me either, as the older we get the more we realize how were being screwed constantly.
If you want to see a GREAT video, watch this (click the one on the right). I guarantee you'll be pissed at the end







. But A LOT more informed.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Me either, as the older we get the more we realize how were being screwed constantly.
If you want to see a GREAT video, watch this (click the one on the right). I guarantee you'll be pissed at the end







. But A LOT more informed.










 Looks like I'll be bussy for the next couple of hours. I miss being a kid again. I would be at the beach or at a lake or setting up to watch a big public fireworks display followed by my own fireworks display. Pft







Most counties in California have banned all fireworks even the safe and sane fireworks. Hmm that right there is another piece of irony. We celebrate our independance day yet we are not free to display our patrietism in the sky or on the ground. I think I got to get out of California before it get's much worse...


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Looks like I'll be bussy for the next couple of hours. I miss being a kid again. I would be at the beach or at a lake or setting up to watch a big public fireworks display followed by my own fireworks display. Pft







Most counties in California have banned all fireworks even the safe and sane fireworks. Hmm that right there is another piece of irony. We celebrate our independance day yet we are not free to display our patrietism in the sky or on the ground. I think I got to get out of California before it get's much worse...










 Wow, here in MI we can still use the wussy ones legally, but I live really close to the Ohio border and they can use the hardcore ones. So most people just drive down there and get em.

I've never been to Cali., I'd like to go someday. I've got family out there and everything. They said its really nice and way cooler than Michigan.

And yeah I sure do miss the bliss of youth ignorance. I liked it when my biggest priority was what cartoon I was gonna watch or which model I wanted to buy and put together.

Or just going sledding all day with friends. Ahh, man, those were the days.


----------



## N2Gaming

Yep those were the days. The good old days.









That video was quite an eye opener...









My instincts tell me how I should feel about todays world and that video secures all those suspicions I have. I fear we society will all be chicken & not do any thing about it or remain enslaved w/our blinders on in fear of what will happen if we seek out the truth to change our society.

Thanks for sharing and sorry for all the OT.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Yep those were the days. The good old days.









That video was quite an eye opener...









My instincts tell me how I should feel about todays world and that video secures all those suspicions I have. I fear we society will all be chicken & not do any thing about it or remain enslaved w/our blinders on in fear of what will happen if we seek out the truth to change our society.

Thanks for sharing and sorry for all the OT.


 I'm glad you enjoyed it. Hopefully people will not just sit idly by. The key is there's strength in numbers, and if many work together, trust me :turd: will get taken care of.

Sorry about the OT guys.

Happy "Independence" Day


----------



## timxirish

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Yeah, Once you lower the voltage you should be able to push that cchip alot further with better temps.

AND that BlueOrb is huge!!!!
































Haha, it kind of is, but the MaxOrb and Duorb CPU are just crazy big. So is my SI-128SE actually. I put a san ace 1011 on it, and that's going to be cooling my main rig







... It won't fit under my Lanbox's PSU by about 3-4cm







.










As for my experience with Tt coolers... The blue orb II ain't shabby, but the Silentboost K8 RX I bought had a dead fan.. Didn't perform great w/an 80mm either unfortunately, but that's only one rotten egg I've experienced.

Also, happy Independance Day everyone.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *timxirish*











As for my experience with Tt coolers... the Silentboost K8 RX I bought had a dead fan.. Didn't perform great w/an 80mm either unfortunately, but that's only one rotten egg I've experienced.


I'm gonna have to look for Pepsi Max now. I may have a new drink if it's any good.


----------



## SuppA-SnipA

i just noticed this, under my entry it says X2, its not, its a single core cpu


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *timxirish*


So is my SI-128SE actually. I put a san ace 1011 on it, and that's going to be cooling my main rig










Timxirish, that is a massive 120mm fan...38mm I'm guessing? I have a 120mm Delta that is 38mm. It's just playing ridiculous in speed. I think I could seriously loose a finger.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SuppA-SnipA*


i just noticed this, under my entry it says X2, its not, its a single core cpu


Suppa, thanks for letting us know. I made the necessary changes to the roster to reflect what you have


----------



## txtmstrjoe

timx,







! That's a PHAT fan on the SI-128SE!







I hope you've got that puppy hooked up to a fan controller. That's how I've got my rigs set up. Otherwise I'd be more deaf than I already am.


----------



## timxirish

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I'm gonna have to look for Pepsi Max now. I may have a new drink if it's any good.









It's great in my opinion. If you're in for high caffeine, it surpasses Mt Dew with 69mg a can (diet pepsi is 35, diet coke is 42 iirc). Pepsi max *is* a diet soda (it's the only kind I drink for health reasons), but it doesn't taste like watered down crap like diet pepsi. It's a good cola.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Timxirish, that is a massive 120mm fan...38mm I'm guessing? I have a 120mm Delta that is 38mm. It's just playing ridiculous in speed. I think I could seriously loose a finger.

Yep, 38mm. Compliments of alexgheseger from a freebie thread







. Iunno if you'd lose a finger (possible i guess), but you'll definitely get one cut open. I was testing it in an Xbox (screws are never on it) since it has molex and didn't have the fan guard on. I dropped it and it slipped a little... and yeah, ow.







... Sliced my right index finger in two clean cuts on the left side of the nail... That's a sign of a good fan.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
timx,







! That's a PHAT fan on the SI-128SE!







I hope you've got that puppy hooked up to a fan controller. That's how I've got my rigs set up. Otherwise I'd be more deaf than I already am.

Hell yeah it is!







. It's funny though. In both thermalright products I have, I've been unable to use the fan clips whatsoever. Thanks to video card placement and motherboard layout, I had to mount my fan on the HR-05's opposite side... And well, as for the SI-128SE... Pretty self explanitory, haha.

I plan on trying it hooked up to my motherboard at first. I don't mind if it sounds like a windtunnel honestly, but I'll probably try both. Here is a video of my rig as of a few months ago. You can see my old cooling solutions in the vid. Only things truely modded about the case are the front panel lights (rgb cycling vs stock blue) and my cmos switch.


----------



## Blitz6804

BlackOmega / N2Gaming: In New York, nothing is legal. Not even sparklers. Seriously, no joke.

Joe / Thlnk3r: As pretty of a bird as the SR-71 is, do you two both need to use it for an avatar? You keep confusing me! (Does not take much.)

SuppA-SnipA: Am I correct the problem did not also exist on the off-site roster? I did not see it, but it could not hurt to double check.

Club: Yes, I intend to eventually get around to finishing the roster redesign; anyone want to help?

timxirish: Wire ties for the win! Have you lapped the SI-128 yet?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Joe / Thlnk3r: As pretty of a bird as the SR-71 is, do you two both need to use it for an avatar? You keep confusing me! (Does not take much.)


 Actually blitz I believe th|nk3rs avatar is a B1 bomber.


----------



## Hueristic

Because I think the gamers night for this club is a great Idea and to keep this Thread on Topic, IS there anyone who would like to start a new thread for 939 Game Club?

BTW the copy of COD I have is II. I've never even installed It!









SO I finished up the PS last night, except for completing the case mod. But it is functional and here is a pic.



NOW, THIS is a true Dual Rail!


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Actually blitz I believe th|nk3rs avatar is a B1 bomber.










Just for reference-sakes, this is a SR-71 Blackbird.


----------



## N2Gaming

I am confused by blitz. blitz are you suggesting that thlk3r and tmj are using the same avatar. From what I can tell they look like two completely different birds.

Hueristic. Nice, now is that two power supplies crambed into the package of one psu?


----------



## Blitz6804

*Hits a hard cache refresh.* Well, now I look like an idiot. Thlnk3r must have changed to the B1 after Joe changed to the SR-71; they were both showing SR-71s before the cache refresh.

Hueristic: We actually have a fan club where we can just hang out and be silly, but it really seems to have died off. You will note also that the off-site roster has a real-time chat box we can use for the same.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hueristic. Nice, now is that two power supplies crambed into the package of one psu?


----------



## BlackOmega

Hey hue what is the estimated wattage/amperage of that PSU?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hey hue what is the estimated wattage/amperage of that PSU?


750w


----------



## timxirish

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
timxirish: Wire ties for the win! Have you lapped the SI-128 yet?

Nah, and as much of a disappointment as it may be, I think I'm going to pass on that for now and see what I can achieve without it. Sometime in the future I may though.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
SO I finished up the PS last night, except for completing the case mod. But it is functional and here is a pic.

NOW, THIS is a true Dual Rail!

Hueristic, can you explain this mod? Looks interesting. What exactly did you do?

Good luck

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Actually blitz I believe th|nk3rs avatar is a B1 bomber.

BlackOmega, a beautiful aircraft I might add. Some of the test flights were done up in Palmdale which is not to far away from where I live. Sadly to say the B1-B is being "retired"


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Sadly to say the B1-B is being "retired"









Prolly being replaced by the next gen invisible UFO bomber.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Prolly being replaced by the next gen invisible UFO bomber.










N2Gaming, it's more of a "budget" thing. They've been wanting to retire the plane since 02 but apparently it's still flying.


----------



## N2Gaming

To bad we can't buy one they retired for our travels. As if







Uhum. Tower 2 we are ready for take off, weel be heading to the bahama's today sky's are clear winds are mild and jets are fast. We should should arive in a few hours so start the party and get the heads a ringing. Ding ding dong. Dr. Dre.


----------



## theCanadian

Pictures of Win:


----------



## decimator

Yeah, so this A8R-MVP that I got...I think I'm the only one left on the face of the planet that's still using it. Everybody else got pissed off that they actually believed AnandTech when they called it a 'Mainstream Rocket' and have switched to better, more reliable, and stable boards. I didn't have any money to switch and so far it's been ok to me...after a couple BIOS updates. The system still doesn't POST when I try to run Crossfire 2900XT's, and I checked that both cards work, that both PCIe slots work, and that my PSU can handle the load. I think I'm gonna format my HDD and try again. Haven't even gotten around to overclocking...at this point I can't even believe that AnandTech actually got 325 MHz HTT on air with this thing...


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Hueristic, can you explain this mod? Looks interesting. What exactly did you do?


Well I'd like to make a how to but I still don't have an answer on my thread on copywrite info (I do not intend to give up intellectual rights to my work) as I intend to publish a "Idiots guide to modding (Or some such thing)".
So I really can't go into specifics at this time. But It is a 350w and a 400w PS in one Case. Which when working on it game me some nice Idea's for future PS designs.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


Pictures of Win:


YEAH, They are!!! SCHWEETTT!!!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


Yeah, so this A8R-MVP that I got...I think I'm the only one left on the face of the planet that's still using it. Everybody else got pissed off that they actually believed AnandTech when they called it a 'Mainstream Rocket' and have switched to better, more reliable, and stable boards. I didn't have any money to switch and so far it's been ok to me...after a couple BIOS updates. The system still doesn't POST when I try to run Crossfire 2900XT's, and I checked that both cards work, that both PCIe slots work, and that my PSU can handle the load. I think I'm gonna format my HDD and try again. Haven't even gotten around to overclocking...at this point I can't even believe that AnandTech actually got 325 MHz HTT on air with this thing...
























GL on that, Well your in the right place for help!


----------



## theCanadian

hueristic, is your sig rig a calculator?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


hueristic, is your sig rig a calculator?


It's a mishmatch of old hardware I bought new.








TI-994a was the first computer I programmed on that had built in "Sprite" manipulation so it has a special place in my heart. 16k FTW! Most others had 4k at the time.


----------



## decimator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 





















GL on that, Well your in the right place for help!

ahaha, thanks for the support. i'll let you know how it goes.


----------



## Blitz6804

theCanadian: Just BARELY fitting the parts together... FOR THE WIN!

decimate: That actually was one of the better boards with the ATi Radeon Xpress 200 if I remember right. I am unsure about jumpers, but if there are any for the crossfire, are they in the right mode? Have you plugged in all molex/Bergman connectors to the board? Have you tried a different crossfire bridge?

Hueristic: To answer your copyright questions:

"By posting content . . . You have confirmed that you have not made this content publicly available before and do not wish to publicly repurpose/reuse this content at a later time. All legal content, information or any other form of member submission, that conforms with the site rules/terms of service, immediately becomes exclusive property of Overclock.net" - OCN ToS

This is a contractual provision that exists despite US copyright law. If you have already fixed to a tangible means, you cannot forfeit your copyrights to OCN, but you may not post on OCN either. If you have not yet fixed to a tangible means prior to posting on OCN, you contractually sign away your copyright in whole or in part to OCN. At least, this is how I read it; I am not yet a lawyer and what I say is not intended to be legal advice. Nor taken seriously.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 

Hueristic: To answer your copyright questions:

"By posting content . . . You have confirmed that you have not made this content publicly available before and do not wish to publicly repurpose/reuse this content at a later time. All legal content, information or any other form of member submission, that conforms with the site rules/terms of service, immediately becomes exclusive property of Overclock.net" - OCN ToS

This is a contractual provision that exists despite US copyright law. If you have already fixed to a tangible means, you cannot forfeit your copyrights to OCN, but you may not post on OCN either. If you have not yet fixed to a tangible means prior to posting on OCN, you contractually sign away your copyright in whole or in part to OCN. At least, this is how I read it; I am not yet a lawyer and what I say is not intended to be legal advice. Nor taken seriously.

I'm fully capable of reading that myself.







As a matter of fact I did and that is why I started the thread I was referring to.
IF OCN wants me to add content then OCN will have to give me a "Insert Legaleeze Here" to guarantee my ownership. Or change the wording of their TOS. As was stated in the thread I started.

Sorry if this sounds harsh Blitz but pointing out a portion of the TOS which I am fully aware of (as shown by my last post) and then explaining it to me and then placing a disclaimer that your explanation may or may not be incorrect is of no use to anyone.


----------



## Blitz6804

"Well I'd like to make a how to but I still don't have an answer on my thread on copywrite info (I do not intend to give up intellectual rights to my work) as I intend to publish a "Idiots guide to modding (Or some such thing)"."

I read as "I would like to, but I do not know if OCN would claim ownership in it." I thought it was pretty obvious.

For the record, I looked for said thread and could not find it.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
"Well I'd like to make a how to but I still don't have an answer on my thread on copywrite info (I do not intend to give up intellectual rights to my work) as I intend to publish a "Idiots guide to modding (Or some such thing)"."

I read as "I would like to, but I do not know if OCN would claim ownership in it." I thought it was pretty obvious.

For the record, I looked for said thread and could not find it.

http://www.overclock.net/off-topic/4...-creating.html


----------



## decimator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
decimate: That actually was one of the better boards with the ATi Radeon Xpress 200 if I remember right. I am unsure about jumpers, but if there are any for the crossfire, are they in the right mode? Have you plugged in all molex/Bergman connectors to the board? Have you tried a different crossfire bridge?

There are no jumpers for the A8R-MVP. There's just a little slot card that goes in one of the PCIe slots when you want to run 16X and you take it out to run 8X in both slots. All Molex/Bergman connectors are plugged into the board and I have tried 2 different Crossfire bridges because each 2900XT comes with its own bridge.

I think I've narrowed it down to something software-related. All my hardware seems to be working fine. There are no Xpress 200 chipset drivers for this board, so that's out of the picture, and like I said in my previous post, I tested both cards, both PCIe slots, and my PSU is a PCP&C Turbocool 750W Silencer Quad, so I'm sure that's not the issue either. My mobo BIOS version is the latest one for this board (0605) and I have Catalyst 9.6 drivers. The one thing I haven't tried is formatting my HDD and starting fresh, which I'm going to do soon. I first installed the OS about 2 years ago, which was back when the board had a very crappy BIOS and people were all over multiple forums raging over the stability problems of this board, so maybe wiping the slate clean will solve my problem. Who knows...


----------



## Zzyzx

I'm surprised I didn't join the club long ago. I have a total of four socket 939 machines, with two of them running, an Athlon X2 4200+ and an Athlon 64 3800+. I have two Athlon 64 3700+ machines, both with dead motherboards. (One Gigabyte and one MSI...)

Neither is overclocked right now, but they both used to be. I should really get around to getting those overclocks back up there. Here are some CPU-Z screenshots, though:


----------



## Hueristic

Welcome ZZYZX! I'm no0t even gonna try to say that! Does it mean "The Wise"?


----------



## Zzyzx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Welcome ZZYZX! I'm no0t even gonna try to say that! Does it mean "The Wise"?


Haha, maybe if I'm hopeful it does. It's pretty much just a made-up name for a place in California. As far as I know, it's pronounced like Isaac's. [Zeye-zicks.] Thanks for the welcome!


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Zzyzx* 
Haha, maybe if I'm hopeful it does. It's pretty much just a made-up name for a place in California. As far as I know, it's pronounced like Isaac's. [Zeye-zicks.] Thanks for the welcome!

I tried to phonetically pronounce it a few differnet ways and the best I could find was Z Yyzz. My touge started twisting after that and I choked and died. that's OK i'm back now.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, a beautiful aircraft I might add. Some of the test flights were done up in Palmdale which is not to far away from where I live. Sadly to say the B1-B is being "retired"









For that size of an aircraft it surely is a good looking machine. I like how the wings sweep back when it gets going really fast.
As for the retiring part it's probably no longer stealthy enough. I wonder if the B2 has teh same payload as that one?









Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 
Pictures of Win:

Right on Canadian







And you've got the BT on there







That is one highly underrated cooler. Did you lap yours? My lapped BT beats out my Xiggy Darkknight









Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 
There are no jumpers for the A8R-MVP. There's just a little slot card that goes in one of the PCIe slots when you want to run 16X and you take it out to run 8X in both slots. All Molex/Bergman connectors are plugged into the board and I have tried 2 different Crossfire bridges because each 2900XT comes with its own bridge.

I think I've narrowed it down to something software-related. All my hardware seems to be working fine. There are no Xpress 200 chipset drivers for this board, so that's out of the picture, and like I said in my previous post, I tested both cards, both PCIe slots, and my PSU is a PCP&C Turbocool 750W Silencer Quad, so I'm sure that's not the issue either. My mobo BIOS version is the latest one for this board (0605) and I have Catalyst 9.6 drivers. The one thing I haven't tried is formatting my HDD and starting fresh, which I'm going to do soon. I first installed the OS about 2 years ago, which was back when the board had a very crappy BIOS and people were all over multiple forums raging over the stability problems of this board, so maybe wiping the slate clean will solve my problem. Who knows...

Hey decimate, the board I am currently running is, from what I gather, identical to yours in regards to the chipsets.
Does the board not want to post when the bridge is attached to both cards? Does it POST with both cards in and not connected? Do you have the latest ULi 220 driver? Is there a BIOS setting that _needs_ to be enabled before crossfire will work?

And without a doubt, I would do a re-install. I had similar issues even on a clean install, I redid it twice as I tried to use the silicon image controller as my RAID controller, but I'm glad I used the ULi one as it's considerably faster.

BTW, I'm using the 9.3 driver on mine (had it saved to a disk). I haven't even bothered to update it yet.









Welcome ZZyzx


----------



## Kryton

Welcome Zzyzx!
We'll be watching to see what you come up with. As to the "Dead" MB's, sorry to hear about those since these boards are almost like Gold to those of us who appreciate 939 systems.

Any chance these could be fixed or are these just another casualty of OC'ing?

Bad caps are easily replaced if that's the problem you know - Just need to have the correct caps to use for replacements. Saved one of my Socket A boards earlier this way with parts from a truly dead MB or it would have been dead itself by now. Just saying this in case the problem you have with these is due to this and it's easily fixed as stated. If anything, useful for parts to keep the ones you have going if needed.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*





What's that you're using to insulate the PCB from the case?


----------



## Zzyzx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Welcome ZZyzx











Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Welcome Zzyzx!
We'll be watching to see what you come up with. As to the "Dead" MB's, sorry to hear about those since these boards are almost like Gold to those of us who appreciate 939 systems.

Any chance these could be fixed or are these just another casualty of OC'ing?

Bad caps are easily replaced if that's the problem you know - Just need to have the correct caps to use for replacements. Saved one of my Socket A boards earlier this way with parts from a truly dead MB or it would have been dead itself by now. Just saying this in case the problem you have with these is due to this and it's easily fixed as stated. If anything, useful for parts to keep the ones you have going if needed.


Thanks for the welcome!

Actually, neither is really an OC casualty. The Gigabyte definitely needs new caps. I don't know that that's all that's wrong with it, but several of them have leaked down. I have an Athlon XP 2200+ running in its place right now, and I haven't had a lot of time to try and get the motherboard working again. It still posts, but starts having trouble around HDD detection, sometimes it gets to the OS and bluescreens, so I'm hopeful.

The MSI motherboard, I'm afraid, may be more fatally wounded. It was in my dad's computer for a long time, and when I picked it from him because it stopped working, the only thing I could find not working was the NB fan, and I'm afraid the NB itself is fried.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


What's that you're using to insulate the PCB from the case?


I made standoffs for the pcb. What you are referring to is a plastic screen for cooling.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
I made standoffs for the pcb. What you are referring to is a plastic screen for cooling.

Oh, right. Thanks








Two in one, is that fan enough? Maybe you should put it under water.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
Oh, right. Thanks








Two in one, is that fan enough? Maybe you should put it under water.
















Excellent question. I an right now working on the airflow. I may or may not mount a fan over that screen. I will need to take temp readings of the planned airflow and do some comparisons. Currently I am adding slots for more direct flow under the main sinks on the bottom pcb. What you cannot see in that picture is that there are only 3 3/8" X 3/16" slots on the front side of the case.









Truley Imbecilic design. But what do you wan't from a manufacturer that steals the PS circuit, copies it, undercuts the company that designed it.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Zzyzx* 
I'm surprised I didn't join the club long ago. I have a total of four socket 939 machines, with two of them running, an Athlon X2 4200+ and an Athlon 64 3800+. I have two Athlon 64 3700+ machines, both with dead motherboards. (One Gigabyte and one MSI...)

Neither is overclocked right now, but they both used to be. I should really get around to getting those overclocks back up there.

Zzyzx, I've added your S939 entries to the roster. Welcome to the club









Are you positive the MSI is completely dead? It may just need a new chipset fan in order for it to POST. It may be overheating to quickly. As for what Kryton said about the GA board, you could easily replace those capacitors. I'm sure we could dig up some guides for you that explains the procedure.

By the way, I've been through Zzyzx road on the way to Glamis, Ca. I never knew such a street existed until my wife showed me









Good luck

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
For that size of an aircraft it surely is a good looking machine. I like how the wings sweep back when it gets going really fast.
As for the retiring part it's probably no longer stealthy enough. I wonder if the B2 has teh same payload as that one?









BlackOmega, I think the idea behind the sweep wings was so that it could penetrate enemy airspace quickly at low altitude. The B1-B was the revised version with more "stealthy" characteristics. Max payload for the B1 was 80 thousand versus the B2's at 40 thousand hehe.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Excellent question. I an right now working on the airflow. I may or may not mount a fan over that screen. I will need to take temp readings of the planned airflow and do some comparisons. Currently I am adding slots for more direct flow under the main sinks on the bottom pcb. What you cannot see in that picture is that there are only 3 3/8" X 3/16" slots on the front side of the case.

Hueristic, well do tell man. I really would like to see pics and a build log OR something. This kind of stuff is good modding motivation









Good luck guys


----------



## decimator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Hey decimate, the board I am currently running is, from what I gather, identical to yours in regards to the chipsets.
Does the board not want to post when the bridge is attached to both cards? Does it POST with both cards in and not connected? Do you have the latest ULi 220 driver? Is there a BIOS setting that _needs_ to be enabled before crossfire will work?

And without a doubt, I would do a re-install. I had similar issues even on a clean install, I redid it twice as I tried to use the silicon image controller as my RAID controller, but I'm glad I used the ULi one as it's considerably faster.

BTW, I'm using the 9.3 driver on mine (had it saved to a disk). I haven't even bothered to update it yet.









Well, actually your board (I'm assuming it's the one in your sig rig) uses the Xpress 3200, which is RD580, chipset while mine uses the Xpress 200 (or Xpress 1600 depending on where you look), which is RD480. But you're right, they both function somewhat similarly.

Anyway, the board doesn't POST when both cards are inserted period, doesn't matter if the Crossfire bridge is connected or not. I did have the ULi chipset drivers installed but then I uninstalled them because they were causing many owners of this board (including me) major grief, so the solution was to just let XP SP2 handle USB and SATA support. The new BIOS versions since then haven't changed much, and my computer runs more stably without them. Might see if they will help after I reinstall OS (Vista this time instead of XP), but I doubt it.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, I think the idea behind the sweep wings was so that it could penetrate enemy airspace quickly at low altitude. The B1-B was the revised version with more "stealthy" characteristics. *Max payload for the B1 was 80 thousand versus the B2's at 40 thousand *hehe.


Well thats why they haven't retired it. In case they need to do some carpet bombing or drop a MOAB.

Usually swept wings are there for high speed flight usually to reduce drag. Similar to the F14 Tomcat. When the wings are in the forward position the plane can fly a lot slower, I would imagine with less fuel consumption since more of the wing is being utilized to create lift.

I'd also surmise that the with the wings swept back that, that rather large plane would also have a considerably smaller radar signature as well.

All in all still a great looking plane.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


Well, actually your board (I'm assuming it's the one in your sig rig) uses the Xpress 3200, which is RD580, chipset while mine uses the Xpress 200 (or Xpress 1600 depending on where you look), which is RD480. But you're right, they both function somewhat similarly.

Anyway, the board doesn't POST when both cards are inserted period, doesn't matter if the Crossfire bridge is connected or not. I did have the ULi chipset drivers installed but then I uninstalled them because they were causing many owners of this board (including me) major grief, so the solution was to just let XP SP2 handle USB and SATA support. The new BIOS versions since then haven't changed much, and my computer runs more stably without them. Might see if they will help after I reinstall OS (Vista this time instead of XP), but I doubt it.


 Is there an A8R-MVP and an A8R32MVP? Because I recall when looking at the specs of the A8r32mvp and my CFX3200, they had the same north and south bridges.









Are the card you are trying to use externally powered?

Out of curiosity what kind of issues did the ULi drivers present?


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Is there an A8R-MVP and an A8R32MVP? Because I recall when looking at the specs of the A8r32mvp and my CFX3200, they had the same north and south bridges.









Are the card you are trying to use externally powered?

Out of curiosity what kind of issues did the ULi drivers present?


Yes, there is indeed an A8R-MVP and an A8R32-MVP.

With the ULi drivers, there was a sound stuttering and skipping issue and there was a USB 2.0 lockup issue. It got to the point where most people just disabled USB 2.0 and stuck with USB 1.1 for a while. Basically the only thing the ULi drivers are good for are on this board are for SATA, and I've found that XP SP2 does a good enough job of it.


----------



## Blitz6804

Decimate: If it does not POST while you have two cards in, that is not a software issue. Have you tried dumping the CMOS after you install both cards prior to booting? Have you, for the sake of fun, tried replacing the CMOS battery?


----------



## decimator

I have cleared CMOS, but have not tried to start the system up with 2 cards since then. I'll give it a try later.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 
Yes, there is indeed an A8R-MVP and an A8R32-MVP.

With the ULi drivers, there was a sound stuttering and skipping issue and there was a USB 2.0 lockup issue. It got to the point where most people just disabled USB 2.0 and stuck with USB 1.1 for a while. Basically the only thing the ULi drivers are good for are on this board are for SATA, and I've found that XP SP2 does a good enough job of it.

Had you tried updating the onboard audio directly from RealTek's website? A lot of the time the ones on the board manufacturers site will be an old and outdated one.

Well it does seem that, that board does have issues with the ULi, thats for sure. And from what I gather the ULi does participate in some way with the NB and crossfire function. What it exactly does I am unsure of.

And the ULi chip basically controls everything except for the GPU's (PCIe slots). And I mean literally everything.










Are there any beta BIOSes available for your board? How is the cooling on that chipset? Possible reseat with better TIM? And just for the sake of good measure, replace the battery too.


----------



## decimator

Well, I formatted my C drive, cleared CMOS, and tried again. Same thing, so I guess it's not software-related...but both my cards are fine and so are both PCIe slots. I don't understand...I guess this mobo really is a piece of trash. I can't believe I held out on it for so long...


----------



## N2Gaming

I felt like that w/my first PC build. I got a cheap mobo/cpu combo w/a via chipset and used Win 98 lol. My system would lock up all the time, BDOD Hang and just all around PO me off every time I used it. Of course I did not know as much about diagnosing problems back then as I do now. Thanks to all the great folks here at OCN.







My level of Technical Experience has improved stupendously. I never have went back to try that system again and run memtest or any other benchmarking stuff. I guess I gave up on my older socket A stuff when I got my First DFI FTW.


----------



## decimator

Aha, yeah, I feel like poo now...I'm starting the search for a new mobo because I desperately want my 2 2900XT's to work properly together in Crossfire (it'll still probably be a 939 board because I don't have too much money to play around with). I paid a premium for those 2900XT's back in the day and it would be such a waste for me to just put one of them up for sale on eBay. Anyway, I only spent around $100 on the A8R-MVP, so if I find a decent used Crossfire board for less than $100, it would be like I bought a good mobo brand new 2 years ago







. That being said...time for me to start browsing the FS forum...and no, it wouldn't be worth it for me to invest my money toward a newer build...I'm a college student







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

decimate, have you got a PC case speaker installed? If you do, what beep codes do you get when you try for a POST?

(As an aside, this is one reason why I always want to have a PC case speaker; it helps tremendously when diagnosing POST failures.)

decimate, a question: On the Abit AT8 32X and the DFI CFX3200 (I've owned both), Abit and DFI both put a digital POST diagnostic system; it would give you an alphanumerical code as it goes through POST. Does the ASUS A8R32-MVP have such a digital POST diagnostic system? (I forget, and I've never owned one.) If it does, what code is it showing?

Good luck.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Well thats why they haven't retired it. In case they need to do some carpet bombing or drop a MOAB.

Usually swept wings are there for high speed flight usually to reduce drag. Similar to the F14 Tomcat. When the wings are in the forward position the plane can fly a lot slower, I would imagine with less fuel consumption since more of the wing is being utilized to create lift.

I'd also surmise that the with the wings swept back that, that rather large plane would also have a considerably smaller radar signature as well.

BlackOmega, oh it's payload isn't designed to carry a GBU-43/B. Be cool if it did though.

The swept wing design does provide higher speeds but it was mainly for enhancing the planes survivability. The whole "avoiding radar" thing is integrated in the planes electronics. The plane was primarily built to carry a nuke









Sorry guys for the OT.

Joe, good question about the speaker. I'm wondering if Decimate is getting any beep codes when having both video cards installed.

Decimate, sorry I was little unclear on the boot up issues but are you getting a POST screen with both cards installed or is there no POST screen at all?

Good luck


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 
With the ULi drivers, there was a sound stuttering and skipping issue and there was a USB 2.0 lockup issue. It got to the point where most people just disabled USB 2.0 and stuck with USB 1.1 for a while.

although I am not familiar with the board in question I am familiar with uli chipsets (Wich aRE SOME OF THE MOST CUTTING EDGE) and my question is this.
Is this chipset before or after nvidia purchased ULI? If it is before then I would find a driver that was written Before nvidia got their paws on ULI.
If it was after then My best guess is to go through the gambit of drivers and run a driver or reg cleaner in-between installs.

Sorry I can't more help. But if you have a chipset before nvidia acquired ULI then it is more than likely a software issue.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
And the ULi chip basically controls everything except for the GPU's (PCIe slots). And I mean literally everything.










From the block diagram you posted it looks like the ULI is a Northbidge companion and a southbridge.
I have a board with this chipset's predecessor and did amazing things with it. SO, I would not give up on it just yet.

Am am under the impression you got caught in a turf war.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
decimate, have you got a PC case speaker installed? If you do, what beep codes do you get when you try for a POST?

*(As an aside, this is one reason why I always want to have a PC case speaker; it helps tremendously when diagnosing POST failures.)*

decimate, a question: On the Abit AT8 32X and the DFI CFX3200 (I've owned both), Abit and DFI both put a digital POST diagnostic system; it would give you an alphanumerical code as it goes through POST. Does the ASUS A8R32-MVP have such a digital POST diagnostic system? (I forget, and I've never owned one.) If it does, what code is it showing?

Good luck.









+1 on whats bolded! And yes a code would help, but I doubt there would be one as It looks like a driver issue.

EDIT: BTW Blitz, Good post in my [email protected] copywrite issue thread.


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


decimate, have you got a PC case speaker installed? If you do, what beep codes do you get when you try for a POST?

(As an aside, this is one reason why I always want to have a PC case speaker; it helps tremendously when diagnosing POST failures.)

decimate, a question: On the Abit AT8 32X and the DFI CFX3200 (I've owned both), Abit and DFI both put a digital POST diagnostic system; it would give you an alphanumerical code as it goes through POST. Does the ASUS A8R32-MVP have such a digital POST diagnostic system? (I forget, and I've never owned one.) If it does, what code is it showing?

Good luck.










No, the A8R-MVP does not have a case speaker. I wish. My A8N-SLI Deluxe had a case speaker. Why the hell doesn't my A8R-MVP have one?









Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Decimate, sorry I was little unclear on the boot up issues but are you getting a POST screen with both cards installed or is there no POST screen at all?


I'm not getting a POST screen at all.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


although I am not familiar with the board in question I am familiar with uli chipsets (Wich aRE SOME OF THE MOST CUTTING EDGE) and my question is this.
Is this chipset before or after nvidia purchased ULI? If it is before then I would find a driver that was written Before nvidia got their paws on ULI. 
If it was after then My best guess is to go through the gambit of drivers and run a driver or reg cleaner in-between installs.

Sorry I can't more help. But if you have a chipset before nvidia acquired ULI then it is more than likely a software issue.

From the block diagram you posted it looks like the ULI is a Northbidge companion and a southbridge.
I have a board with this chipset's predecessor and did amazing things with it. SO, I would not give up on it just yet.

Am am under the impression you got caught in a turf war.









+1 on whats bolded! And yes a code would help, but I doubt there would be one as It looks like a driver issue.


Well, I'm not sure when nVidia acquired ULi, but I'm going to assume it was before because my board has a ULi southbridge mated with an ATi northbridge.

Thanks for all the suggestions, everybody. I really appreciate it. Even if they don't help, it's the thought that counts. +Rep.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


No, the A8R-MVP does not have a case speaker. I wish. My A8N-SLI Deluxe had a case speaker. Why the hell doesn't my A8R-MVP have one?









I'm not getting a POST screen at all.


Decimate, do you have spare one laying around or perhaps one that you could take out of a case? The speaker (as Joe pointed out) would be great for troubleshooting. IF you're getting beep codes then you need to know what they are!

Did you happen to try testing with a different power supply?

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


although I am not familiar with the board in question I am familiar with uli chipsets (Wich aRE SOME OF THE MOST CUTTING EDGE) and my question is this.
Is this chipset before or after nvidia purchased ULI? If it is before then I would find a driver that was written Before nvidia got their paws on ULI. 
If it was after then My best guess is to go through the gambit of drivers and run a driver or reg cleaner in-between installs.
Sorry I can't more help. But if you have a chipset before nvidia acquired ULI then it is more than likely a software issue.
From the block diagram you posted it looks like the ULI is a Northbidge companion and a southbridge.
I have a board with this chipset's predecessor and did amazing things with it. SO, I would not give up on it just yet.


 Hue his problems are hardware related, IMO. From what I gather, he has 2 2900XT's, both work just fine. Both of the PCIex16 slots work individually but when both cards are inserted there is no POST. (Sounds a lot like the problem I was having with mine).

Decimate, are those cards powered by the motherboard or separately via PCIe power leads off of the PSU? Depending on your answer, I might have a suggestion.


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Decimate, do you have spare one laying around or perhaps one that you could take out of a case? The speaker (as Joe pointed out) would be great for troubleshooting. IF you're getting beep codes then you need to know what they are!


I can take one from out of another one of my builds. I'll do that later.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Did you happen to try testing with a different power supply?


I do not have an extra PSU that puts out enough watts to power 2 2900XT's, so no, unfortunately. I doubt it's the PSU, though, because the system ran fine for upwards of 2 years with 1 2900XT and it's a PCP&C. You never know, though, I guess...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Decimate, are those cards powered by the motherboard or separately via PCIe power leads off of the PSU? Depending on your answer, I might have a suggestion.


They are powered via power leads off of the PSU. Each card requires a 2x3-pin connector and a 2x4-pin connector. Lots of juice...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


I do not have an extra PSU that puts out enough watts to power 2 2900XT's, so no, unfortunately. I doubt it's the PSU, though, because the system ran fine for upwards of 2 years with 1 2900XT and it's a PCP&C. You never know, though, I guess...


Decimate, yeah that is one thing I would test out first...as you said above, "you never know". Weren't the 2900XT's really power hungry? Tator or someone can you confirm this?

Do you have multimeter that you could test the PSU with? It may not be required but it wouldn't hurt to eliminate high/low voltages being the culprit. Here is the guide that I typically follow: http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/guide...ing-guide.html.

Good luck


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Decimate, yeah that is one thing I would test out first...as you said above, "you never know". Weren't the 2900XT's really power hungry? Tator or someone can you confirm this?


http://www.gpureview.com/show_cards....=518&card2=608
Wow 215W








That's more than the HD 4890


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


http://www.gpureview.com/show_cards....=518&card2=608
Wow 215W







That's more than the HD 4890










HothBase, is that total draw from the card or total system draw? If that's the total draw from the video card then that explains it hahah wow

Thanks for the linkage


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


HothBase, is that total draw from the card or total system draw? If that's the total draw from the video card then that explains it hahah wow

Thanks for the linkage


That's the maximum power draw for the card only. No problem.







I love that site.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


That's the maximum power draw for the card only. No problem.







I love that site.


HothBase, if that is the case then that might be why Decimate is running into problems


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Is that info for real?









That's a crazy-hungry card. Make that TWO crazy-hungry cards!


----------



## decimator

Hmm...but would load power draw make a difference? I'm just trying to get the system to POST. Wouldn't the cards only reach load draw under heavy gaming or something along those lines? On system startup I would assume the power draw is minimal...

Also, a 2900XT require at least two 2x3-pin connectors to run with the option of using one 2x4-pin connector and one 2x3-pin connector instead. I tried booting using four 2x3-pin connectors as well as two 2x3-pin connectors and two 2x4-pin connectors and both times the system didn't POST.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, Firing Squad confirms you need 215 W per card at stock speed. That is, about 18 A per card. The only power supply that AMD certifies for crossfire with 2900 XT crossfire is the Thermaltake Toughpower 850W. This is not to say that it is the ONLY power supply that can run those cards, merely that it is the only one certified to do so. Do you have a friend who has a bigger PSU you can borrow just to test? Have you tried underclocking your CPU prior to installing the second card? (Try running it at 5x200 @ 1.100 V for example; run the memory at DDR 200, 3-3-3-8-2T for lowest power consumption.) For added assurance, try unplugging all unneeded optical and hard drives to see if we can get it to POST with two cards.

I have noticed at POST, most things go to 100% load, and then dial back to their idle conditions.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hue his problems are hardware related, IMO. From what I gather, he has 2 2900XT's, both work just fine. Both of the PCIex16 slots work individually but when both cards are inserted there is no POST. (Sounds a lot like the problem I was having with mine).

Decimate, are those cards powered by the motherboard or separately via PCIe power leads off of the PSU? Depending on your answer, I might have a suggestion.

































HOW the @!#[email protected] Did I miss the no POST!







I wondered why Joe asked about beep codes.

For some reason I was thinking the problem was both would not work in crossfire. But I did write that after some friends dropped by we had some beers and I just woke up!









EDIT: sounds like you guys found the culprit, some of those 2900's eat power like mad. I think me and hoth had that discusion (which he corrected me







) about 2 dozen pages back! LOL good luck finding iT!









this thread cruises!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Guys, does the 2900XT come with the Crossfire bridge? Or does it do Crossfire via the old-style external dongle?

Maybe there's something wrong with either the Crossfire bridge or in its installation?


----------



## Blitz6804

The HD 2900 XT comes with internal crossfire bridges.


----------



## BlackOmega

I was thinking about decimates issue of not POSTing.

Decimate, how do you know its not POSTing? Are you sure that there just is no video being output? Thats actually what happened to me. With both cards installed, it would go through this cyclical reboot, then eventually would sound like its starting up. I would let it go for about a minute. Then I would hit ctrl+alt_del, then alt+u, then u. That will shut the rig down. Lo and behold the rig would shut down. So I realized that I indeed was posting and getting all the way to windows I was just not getting any display.

After a bunch of removing the cards and reinstalling the cards, I accidentally forgot to plug the lower card in







(bridge installed). It booted all the way through to windows no problem. I shut the rig down, hooked up the power supply to it, and wouldn't you know it, everything worked after that.








But the strange thing was that even with the card unplugged, everything about it worked. The 3 LED's lit up on POST and the fan spun like it was plugged in. Maybe when I started it up that way it forced power to run through a different channel that it hadn't and it worked. And that also made the SATA controller work on the ULi as well. It hadn't worked before, well not properly anyway.

Good Luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Another silly question: have you tried plugging in the monitor to the other card? Unless I am mistaken, the blue slot is the primary card.


----------



## decimator

woops, delete, plz.


----------



## decimator

Nope, nobody I know has a PSU bigger than mine. I did everything you said in your post (ran CPU at 200 MHz x 5 and memory at DDR200 2.5-3-3-8 because BH-5 can't run at CL 3) and unplugged my DVD-RW drive and it still wouldn't POST. Thanks anyways. I seriously think it's this craptacular mobo. Asus basically just abandoned it. Even if it isn't, I've just about had it with this thing anyway.

http://www.driverheaven.net/motherbo...iscussion.html

I made a thread in the Wanted section. Anybody with an Abit AT8-32X or DFI LP UT CFX3200-DR that you want to get rid of, I'm your man.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I was thinking about decimates issue of not POSTing.

Decimate, how do you know its not POSTing? Are you sure that there just is no video being output? Thats actually what happened to me. With both cards installed, it would go through this cyclical reboot, then eventually would sound like its starting up. I would let it go for about a minute. Then I would hit ctrl+alt_del, then alt+u, then u. That will shut the rig down. Lo and behold the rig would shut down. So I realized that I indeed was posting and getting all the way to windows I was just not getting any display.

After a bunch of removing the cards and reinstalling the cards, I accidentally forgot to plug the lower card in







(bridge installed). It booted all the way through to windows no problem. I shut the rig down, hooked up the power supply to it, and wouldn't you know it, everything worked after that.









I've actually thought about that, but the thing is, both cards are plugged in and and when I start the system up, both cards have a flashing red light on them.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Another silly question: have you tried plugging in the monitor to the other card? Unless I am mistaken, the blue slot is the primary card.

Yes, the blue slot is the primary. I have tried plugging the monitor into both cards, but the same result occurs.


----------



## Hueristic

Decimate, Have you used 2 power supply's?


----------



## decimator

No, I haven't. I have a spare 450W PSU in my closet. I'm surprised I haven't thought of this before. I'll give it a try. But, um...How would I go about doing this? How would I make the 2nd PSU power on when I press my computer's power button? I don't have any experience using 2 PSU's in 1 system.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 
No, I haven't. I have a spare 450W PSU in my closet. I'm surprised I haven't thought of this before. I'll give it a try.

I was thinking about that but did not say any thing. As long as you know what pins to jump on the 24 pin mobo connector you should be fine.


----------



## BlackOmega

Decimate, Just so you know. A lot of the DFI CFX3200's are plagued motherboards as well. They have certain quirks that if you can overlook, it makes for a damn good board.

On a lot of the boards, the ULi SATA ports flat out do not work. Mine seem to work just fine. Another quirk of the board, when you first fire up your rig after a few minutes it will lock up. Do a hard shut down, then reboot and there are no more lock up issues after that, mine can literally run for weeks without issue.
The BIOS is full of features and is easy to navigate and use. The board is laid out well, it can run 2 double slot cards and still has 1 slot between them for adequate cooling.

If you can find one, I think the Abit would be a better board. If not I might be interested in selling mine. PM me if you can't find an Abit.


----------



## decimator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I was thinking about that but did not say any thing. As long as you know what pins to jump on the 24 pin mobo connector you should be fine.

Er, I don't, haha







. Care to enlighten me?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 
No, I haven't. I have a spare 450W PSU in my closet. I'm surprised I haven't thought of this before. I'll give it a try. But, um...How would I go about doing this? How would I make the 2nd PSU power on when I press my computer's power button? I don't have any experience using 2 PSU's in 1 system.

Jump the green pin (4th from the end) to a black pin).

Start the unhooked PS first.

I use one molex from each ps on the vid connectors (To spread the load)
I place the drives on the second ps and leave the first for the mobo and half the vid card(s).


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Jump the green pin (4th from the end) to a black pin).

Start the unhooked PS first.

I use on molex from each ps on the vid connectors (To spread the load)
I place the drives on the second ps and leave the first for the mobo and half the vid card(s).

As Hue said Here is a link


----------



## Blitz6804

Make sure the 450 W has at least 25 A on the 12 V rail before you try using it for this purpose.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Jump the green pin (4th from the end) to a black pin).

Start the unhooked PS first.

I use on molex from each ps on the vid connectors (To spread the load)
I place the drives on the second ps and leave the first for the mobo and half the vid card(s).

Then put your right foot and shake it all about. That should make a nice POST on the hokey pokey. Don't forget to shake it all about.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Make sure the 450 W has at least 25 A on the 12 V rail before you try using it for this purpose.
















Umm why?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Then put your right foot and shake it all about. That should make a nice POST on the hokey pokey. Don't forget to shake it all about.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Geez, G.O., I thought giving my DFIs the evil eye was all that was needed!


----------



## decimator

Looks complicated...I don't have the tools to do that right now so that's gonna have to wait. Thanks for the help, everyone. Really appreciate it.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Geez, G.O., I thought giving my DFIs the evil eye was all that was needed!


















The DFI's need a blood sacrifice. Unfortunately I'm out of goats and chickens don't work.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
The DFI's need a blood sacrifice. Unfortunately I'm out of goats and chickens don't work.

Cattle good?

Steak after sacrifice, methinks.
















Who knew G.O. held the secrets for making DFIs run properly. I'll remember all this for when I get reacquainted with my CFX3200-DR.









Yo, guys, I'm attaching a bunch of documents to this post. It's a collection of drafts of charts I use when OCing. Anyone care to critique?

They're actually not the latest drafts of these; I'm using more updated charts on my current project.









If anyone using OpenOffice wants to give these a gander and let me know what you think, I'd be stoked if you do.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Cattle good?

Steak after sacrifice, methinks.
















Who knew G.O. held the secrets for making DFIs run properly. I'll remember all this for when I get reacquainted with my CFX3200-DR.









Yo, guys, I'm attaching a bunch of documents to this post. It's a collection of drafts of charts I use when OCing. Anyone care to critique?

They're actually not the latest drafts of these; I'm using more updated charts on my current project.









If anyone using OpenOffice wants to give these a gander and let me know what you think, I'd be stoked if you do.










lol, that Expert Mobo is still kicking my butt. If I was brave enough and had enough money, I could get that sucker to run at 3.1Ghz. As is the water is just to deep right now.


----------



## Hueristic

Hey Joe, All I see is stock settings and no data?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I'm hoping to get my H2O project off the ground in about a month and a half or so. thlnk3r has my other case (the one to be used for the water-cooled machine), plus we've got a couple of other things we're going to be trying and playing with as well (hopefully soon).

In the meantime, I've got Darth Raivo's OC (and a forthcoming document that's going to be in tandem with that) to keep me busy.

Well, busi*er*.









Plus I've got a couple of other obligations I've yet to fulfill.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Hey Joe, All I see is stock settings and no data?


In those charts, yes. Those are templates for the actual charts I use.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Make sure the 450 W has at least 25 A on the 12 V rail before you try using it for this purpose.

















Umm why?


To be sure you do not blow the power supply. I could just be a worry wort.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


If anyone using OpenOffice wants to give these a gander and let me know what you think, I'd be stoked if you do.










I do not use OpenOffice, but instead, MS Office 12 (2007) and they look good when I open them.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I could just be a worry wort.


----------



## timxirish

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
By the way, I've been through Zzyzx road on the way to Glamis, Ca. I never knew such a street existed until my wife showed me









I didn't know either-- thought it was just a song title Stone Sour came up with, but apparently 



 is named after that road.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
If anyone using OpenOffice wants to give these a gander and let me know what you think, I'd be stoked if you do.









Most of it is greek to me, but all of them loaded okay in OO and SumatraPDF.


----------



## Salku

I forgotten that I had gotten different part for my rig so here you go










Link


----------



## decimator

Ok, I plan on rigging my 2nd PSU up to the system tonight. If it works and the system POST's, I think what I might do is sell my Silencer 750W Quad Black, stick my Antec 450W back in, and buy one of these things. Simply running the 450W in tandem with my 750W would be a hassle because there's no room inside my case for the 450W and there's no room around the outside of my case for it either. So what do you guys think? Will that Booster thing be able to run 2 2900XT's?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


Ok, I plan on rigging my 2nd PSU up to the system tonight. If it works and the system POST's, I think what I might do is sell my Silencer 750W Quad Black, stick my Antec 450W back in, and buy one of these things. Simply running the 450W in tandem with my 750W would be a hassle because there's no room inside my case for the 450W and there's no room around the outside of my case for it either. So what do you guys think? Will that Booster thing be able to run 2 2900XT's?


Interesting, If you go that route, Write a review on it.


----------



## Blitz6804

That provides 37.5 A on the 12 V rail. That said, you would (theoretically) be able to run the crossfire, even if overclocked. The 6-pins provide 75 W each, the 8-pins provide 150 W each. 75+75+150+150 = 450. The cards also draw 75 W each from the motherboard, so the "main" power supply would be providing 12.5 A to them. Worst case, you might need to plug one of the 8-pins on the "main" power supply just to more-evenly distribute the load.

PERSONALLY, I would advocate just getting a more powerful power supply; you can carry it over to an upgraded rig in future, maybe when you go for some nVidia GTX SLI action. What makes no sense is why does your power supply (which I presume is a single-rail at 60 A) have such problem driving these cards. If overclocked, you need 50 A, if you run stock, it should only need 37.5 A.


----------



## Hueristic

His ps may not be putting out it's rated power. A PS can have a bad cap or three and still function.

The only way for him to check without a meter and knowing how to measure voltage drop is to change ps's or to add one.

Buying things he may not need are not going to help him if indeed his mobo is hosed.

Before Planning a remedy to any problem you have to first Define it.

Check out the 5 steps of problem solving, It will do you good through life.

And as your in college blitz take Critical thinking as an elective if it is not a choice in your curriculum.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


Ok, I plan on rigging my 2nd PSU up to the system tonight. If it works and the system POST's, I think what I might do is sell my Silencer 750W Quad Black, stick my Antec 450W back in, and buy one of these things. Simply running the 450W in tandem with my 750W would be a hassle because there's no room inside my case for the 450W and there's no room around the outside of my case for it either. So what do you guys think? Will that Booster thing be able to run 2 2900XT's?


I Like this optional SLI/Crossfire add on PSU. I wonder how it knows when to turn on and off, if it does it in sink w/your primary PSU or if it has to physically be turned on and off.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I Like this optional SLI/Crossfire add on PSU. I wonder how it knows when to turn on and off, if it does it in sink w/your primary PSU or if it has to physically be turned on and off.


It has a switch you flip.


----------



## N2Gaming

Oh ok thanks Tator.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Salku*


I forgotten that I had gotten different part for my rig so here you go

Link


Salku, I've added your 4600+ X2 to the roster. Do you have plans on overclocking this bad boy?

Decimate, so far great job on troubleshooting the issue. I think 60amps is more than enough for the two cards plus your system but I think perhaps wattage might be low? If it's TRUE that both 2900XT's draw 215watts, that only leaves you with 150 watts (750-170 (+3.3v & +5v)=580-430) (just rough estimates). Who knows. Back in the day I remember these cards being power hogs. I understand you paid a pretty penny for these but how much trouble/money is it going to be get them to work? I'd say just stick with what you have and just use one card.

Good luck


----------



## Hueristic

Yeah thlnk3r, If there is nothing wrong with his ps then I was thinking of recommending one new Vid card and sell the other 2 and he'd come out cheaper with a better system.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Salku, I've added your 4600+ X2 to the roster. Do you have plans on overclocking this bad boy?

Decimate, so far great job on troubleshooting the issue. I think 60amps is more than enough for the two cards plus your system but I think perhaps wattage might be low? If it's TRUE that both 2900XT's draw 215watts, that only leaves you with 150 watts (750-170 (+3.3v & +5v)=580-430) (just rough estimates). Who knows. Back in the day I remember these cards being power hogs. I understand you paid a pretty penny for these but how much trouble/money is it going to be get them to work? I'd say just stick with what you have and just use one card.

Good luck










 It is very possible that his power output is below the needed amount. IIRC DFI suggests a minimum of 400w for my ultra-D's I'd imagine that his board would need roughly the same amount.

And as a side note, that PCP&C 750QB is capable of supplying over its rated amount, 825w IIRC.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Yeah thlnk3r, If there is nothing wrong with his ps then I was thinking of recommending one new Vid card and sell the other 2 and he'd come out cheaper with a better system.


Hueristic, yeah good idea. Geeze how much do 2900XT's go for these days?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


And as a side note, that PCP&C 750QB is capable of supplying over its rated amount, 825w IIRC.


BlackOmega, thanks for pointing that out. That is some interesting info.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


His ps may not be putting out it's rated power. A PS can have a bad cap or three and still function.

The only way for him to check without a meter and knowing how to measure voltage drop is to change ps's or to add one.

Buying things he may not need are not going to help him if indeed his mobo is hosed.


Yeah, as I said, I am skeptical that his power supply, in proper working order, would have a problem running the cards. This is why I suggested trying another power supply; if it works, that was the problem. If not, you can return the power supply (possibly less a restock fee depending where you bought it) and try eliminating something else.

Have you, for the sake of fun and argument, tried increasing the chipset voltage slightly before adding the second card? If I remember right, you said you have tried both cards in both slots and all four permutations worked, right? (Card 0, Slot A; Card 1, Slot A; Card 0, Slot B; Card 1, Slot B) Have you tried cleaning all contacts (the two PCIe x16 contacts and both crossfire contacts) and all slots (the PCIe slots and the crossfire bridges) with isopropanol and coffee filters?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
And as a side note, that PCP&C 750QB is capable of supplying over its rated amount, 825w IIRC.

That's not continuous. But peak. Which means it can hold that for a limited amount of time. But not for 24/7 use.


----------



## decimator

I hooked up the Antec 450W to the rig and plugged it into the 2nd card. The same thing -- still didn't POST, so it's not my Silencer 750W. It's official -- my mobo is hosed...and I'm pretty sure it shipped to me like that when I first got it. Thanks to everybody for helping me troubleshoot this thing and hopefully my bid to purchase an Abit AT8-32X doesn't fall through on me.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
That's not continuous. But peak. Which means it can hold that for a limited amount of time. But not for 24/7 use.

True but that would mean that it could even for the duration of POST and startup run at a higher wattage thus eliminating his power starvation concerns.

I'm in agreement with everyone else though, I think that he'd be better served buying a new GPU rather than trying to get his existing cards to work on another board. I bet a 4870/4890 would outperform his crossfired 2900xt's.

Although another board would be a cheaper solution.


----------



## Blitz6804

I would certainly try to get ahold of an Abit AT8-32x or an Asus A8R32-MVP. The DFI offering, while powerful, is often plagued with problems. The most interesting of the offerings is the Sapphire Pure part, but that is hard to find, if at all.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I'm hoping to get my H2O project off the ground in about a month and a half or so. thlnk3r has my other case (the one to be used for the water-cooled machine), plus we've got a couple of other things we're going to be trying and playing with as well (hopefully soon).


If there's anything I can do or if you need to ask me something, I'll help if I can Joe. 
No guarantees but maybe I can give a helpful suggestion somehow.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


If there's anything I can do or if you need to ask me something, I'll help if I can Joe. 
No guarantees but maybe I can give a helpful suggestion somehow.


Will do, Kryton.









I'm sure there'll be questions aplenty.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Will do, Kryton.









I'm sure there'll be questions aplenty.










I will tell you I'm currently using a OCZ Hydroflow CPU block and a Swiftech MCW30 chipset block with my setup along with a Swiftech triple rad. You've seen the pics of my setup from an earlier post but I don't know what you ultimately have in mind for this setup.

I'm assuming it's for some really *Insane Clockspeeds*.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
I will tell you I'm currently using a OCZ Hydroflow CPU block and a Swiftech MCW30 chipset block with my setup along with a Swiftech triple rad. You've seen the pics of my setup from an earlier post but I don't know what you ultimately have in mind for this setup.

I'm assuming it's for some really *Insane Clockspeeds*.









I was thinking about a very cold H2O solution and in my thoughts was a consideration of using hollowed out tampons or several female pads for a wick to take care of the exterior moisture build up that accompanies really cold H2O tubing's and water blocks. Is there any such thing on the market or would it be something new. Sorry for the female products but that's the only thing I could think of that is small enough yet specifically designed to soak up moisture.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I was thinking about a very cold H2O solution and in my thoughts was a consideration of using hollowed out tampons or several female pads for a wick to take care of the exterior moisture build up that accompanies really cold H2O tubing's and water blocks. Is there any such thing on the market or would it be something new. Sorry for the female products but that's the only thing I could think of that is small enough yet specifically designed to soak up moisture.









Shamwow?









Was benching my 754 last night and condensation was once again affecting things. Had to abort before something bad happened. We actually have some of those Shamwows here and might try one to see soon.

At least the 2600+ Sempy does run nicely as I found out before being forced to shutdown the machine.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Shamwow?









Was benching my 754 last night and condensation was once again affecting things. Had to abort before something bad happened. We actually have some of those Shamwows here and might try one to see soon.

At least the 2600+ Sempy does run nicely as I found out before being forced to shutdown the machine.


Oh yeah, Sham Wow. That guy says your gonna like my nuts.








Any way, Uhm I was thinking that I would have to suspend the pc in a upsidedown configuration w/ the ShamWow rapped on the outside of the cooling tubing and then a garden hose or some other sort of exterior tubing on the outside of the shamwow to insulate the moisture between the inner & outer tubes creating a wick affect like on the newer wick style Heap pipe HSF solutions.

Edit: Then seal off the connections and allow the water/moisture/condensation to follow gravity into a drip tray or something like that.

Edit #2: Here is a picture I drew up real quick in MS Paint of my theory/idea. Imagine the pump & rad in the drip tank. I know it would be very cumbersome. "My life has become cumbersome". I don't remember the last time I heard that song.

Edit #3: From looking at the picture you can see that my idea is to keep gravity working in my favor even in the event of a small leak. I know easier said then done.


----------



## Kryton

I've thought about inverting things myself BUT you have a problem when you do that. Unless you can somehow get *All* the air out of your cooling block, you'll have an air bubble trapped at the block's base - Even a tiny amount trapped can cause problems. This means the coolant won't be able to pickup the heat and remove it as it should. Unless you can find one designed for that kind of setup, it's suicide to do that and I doubt anyone makes one like that. Perhaps giving it an outward lean once the air is purged will still work well enough.


----------



## N2Gaming

I was under the impression that the H2O flow rate would push any air bubbles out but I guess I was wrong. Thanks for the info.


----------



## Kryton

In most cases it would but you are talking about making air go directly down and air simply doesn't want to do that. 
Here's a thought - Using a silicone spray to "seal" the board. Beware though many of these sprays contain an ingredient that dissolves plastic. If anything, you could ask Drewmeister what you could do about it.

If there's anyone I know of that would know, it's him.

EDIT: Check out this link on insulating the board vs condensation: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=224911

This may not be the perfect way for what we are talking about based on what we are using in our setup but it's still an idea to think about.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hi guys, I trying something new that I have never tried before and am calling out all the troops for any experience/help to my current project Seen Here.

Thank you,

N2G


----------



## thlnk3r

N2Gaming, I'll have a look at the thread. Hopefully me or someone can provide some insight.


----------



## BlackOmega

Hey fellas, I stopped by this local computer shop and found that they had some 939 CPUs'. They had a 3800x2 for $50, it was CCBWE 0544. Haven't looked to see what designation it is (i.e. Manchester).

If anyone is looking for one let me know I'll go pick up for ya.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

CCBWE = Toledo/Denmark.









By the way, I'm amazed that shop has some S939 chips in stock.

(I thought I was the only one left.







)


----------



## Kryton

Did some buying myself today but not for my 939.

Ordered a MSI 790FX-GD70 motherboard, some OCZ RAM (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820227300) and a SATA drive for this new build. Also got an extra MCW30 chipset cooler since I believe it's needed for this setup and you know it's going to be watercooled. The CPU in case you missed it is a X3 720 BE I've had sitting here for some time now and it's an 0904 date chip. I don't know if the board will unlock the last core or if it can be unlocked at all regardless of what it's in but I'll try it once it's together.


----------



## ciff1

cpu-z attached.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Did some buying myself today but not for my 939.

Ordered a MSI 790FX-GD70 motherboard, some OCZ RAM (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820227300)


Kryton, let us know how that board goes. Joe and I were both looking at that one just recently









Quote:



Originally Posted by *ciff1*


cpu-z attached.










Ciff1, welcome to the club. I've added you to the roster.

Good luck


----------



## maj1stic

ive got 2 socket 939 pcs, one has just been sittin for about a year


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


CCBWE = Toledo/Denmark.









By the way, I'm amazed that shop has some S939 chips in stock.

(I thought I was the only one left.







)


 I wonder what kind of OC you can get out of those







. I'm so tempted to buy it, but I figure its only ~$20-30 less than a 710. I'm trying to resist.

And you have a shop too?







(eBay?)


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I wonder what kind of OC you can get out of those







. *I'm so tempted to buy it*, but I figure its only ~$20-30 less than a 710. I'm trying to resist.

And you have a shop too?







(eBay?)


You'd be better off selling it on ebay for $75 and make a profit. Don't buy it off him till it sells. If he still has it it isn't going anywhere!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


You'd be better off selling it on ebay for $75 and make a profit. Don't buy it off him till it sells. If he still has it it isn't going anywhere!










 Even if he does sell it I can always send em my Manchester







.......

That shop actually had 3 of em, 3500+,3400+,3800x2









Maybe I can pair it up with one of my boards and make a killing.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I wonder what kind of OC you can get out of those







. I'm so tempted to buy it, but I figure its only ~$20-30 less than a 710. I'm trying to resist.

And you have a shop too?







(eBay?)


By reputation, CCBWEs are nastier than a dog's armpits as far as OCing goes. Their one appealing trait is that they apparently are not cold-bugged; unless you have a super-exotic cooling strategy (Liquid Nitrogen or phase change), I'd pass on a CCBWE.









Of course, there's always a chance that you happen upon one of those rare CCBWEs that could OC well on air.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


By reputation, CCBWEs are nastier than a dog's armpits as far as OCing goes. Their one appealing trait is that they apparently are not cold-bugged; unless you have a super-exotic cooling strategy (Liquid Nitrogen or phase change), I'd pass on a CCBWE.









Of course, there's always a chance that you happen upon one of those rare CCBWEs that could OC well on air.










 Yeah, I already have a 3800x2 thats just sitting around until I get motivated enough to SLI mod my other ultra-D.

Hell I got my Xiggy DK just sitting on the floor next tomy desk. I suppose it might be time to get my folding rigs up and running.


----------



## Hueristic

Yeah, I've almost got my TTS up but I've been hesitant about takeing down one of my folders to finish it off.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Then there's this rumor floating around that some schmuck might be unloading one or two pristine, BNIB S939 Opteron dual-cores from choice steppings...


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Then there's this rumor floating around that some schmuck might be unloading one or two pristine, BNIB S939 Opteron dual-cores from choice steppings...









Actually I heard he was gonna *cough* donate them!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Then there's this rumor floating around that some schmuck might be unloading one or two pristine, BNIB S939 Opteron dual-cores from choice steppings...









Joe, and who would that be? Someone in the for sale section is selling S939 boards


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Then there's this rumor floating around that some schmuck might be unloading one or two pristine, BNIB S939 Opteron dual-cores from choice steppings...









Depends on the optys I suppose. But still I don't think any s939 is enough to run both of my 4870's. Unless I could run them at 3500Mhz.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Well, Omega, I guess that depends on whether you're using your HD 4870s for gaming (in which case I hope you have a monitor capable of super-high resolutions) or for benching.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
theCanadian: Just BARELY fitting the parts together... FOR THE WIN!

I had to bend the heatsink 3 or 4 degrees to get it to fit.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Well, Omega, I guess that depends on whether you're using your HD 4870s for gaming (in which case I hope you have a monitor capable of super-high resolutions) or for benching.










 Well the res is only 1680x1050 (for now) and of course I'll do some benching with em, but yeah its mainly for gaming. And in my experience, an extra while not doubling performance does make it considerably better, it usually raises my framerates and also raises the lowest FPS I'll experience and how much time I'll spend at the minimum framerate, not to mention I can run anything and everything fully maxed out with full AA/AF.

Not to mention with 2 of them I'll be able to force higher AA than usually allowed


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Smexy setup there, theCanadian!







I used to run that same HSF + RAM combo not too long ago.

Any reason why you couldn't use the red DIMM slots instead?

Lately I've been fixated on motherboards with a blue PCB. In fact, I'm looking really really hard at one.







Dunno yet when I'll be able to pull the trigger on this, but it's all very exciting.









(Was that vague enough?














)


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


(Was that vague enough?














)










To bad there weren't any dual 939 boards.









TheCanadian, GREAT job on that mounting! Looks Sweet and bet it cools the bomb! Make sure to post you OC when you get it set!


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*









To bad there weren't any dual 939 boards.










I do believe AMD & Asus both made Dual skt 939 nVidia 3200 boards for servers/workstations.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*









To bad there weren't any dual 939 boards.









TheCanadian, GREAT job on that mounting! Looks Sweet and bet it cools the bomb! Make sure to post you OC when you get it set!


I'm actually dismantling it







The RAM is currently up for auction on ebay. $51 with 2.5 days left. I only payed $40 for it.









But since you asked, I think the highest I got it to was 2.93 GHz for a super pi run of 29.031 seconds. I ran it at 2.853 GHz stable.

I dont remember why I didnt use the red ram slots... Oh yea... Originally I had an A64 4400+ X2 and it had a bad memory controller so I couldn't use dual channel. And it was buggy when I used the second memory bank. So I was forced to use the blue bank. When I got the Opteron 165, All those issues went away.







939 FOREVER!


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Lately I've been fixated on motherboards with a blue PCB. In fact, I'm looking really really hard at one.







Dunno yet when I'll be able to pull the trigger on this, but it's all very exciting.









(Was that vague enough?














)


If you are looking at AM2+/AM3 boards stay away from the Sapphire boards, as they are actually made by Jetway, and from experience with their 790GX & 780G Hummer (aka best version they have) series, the BIOS kill those boards to any merit they might have.

Like wise, the Sapphire versions are the same ways, great feature rich boards with terrible, and very limited BIOS.


----------



## Blitz6804

Could be Gigabyte; Gigabyte uses blue PCBs.


----------



## Jacka

I found a very nice Opteron 146 CAB2E 0540FPMW that I did have running very nicely at 300*10, but turned back down to stock speeds due to the heatwave that we had here recently.

My Sandy, which is stepping KACAE 0604GPDW for anybody that is interested, is having a little holiday in a cardboard box.

Unfortunately my RAM has died quite considerably, I think as a result of the winter suicide contest, so it's running at 266MHz :'(

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=601265


----------



## Blitz6804

ciff1, jacka, Salku, timxirish, Zzyzx: I will be upgrading the roster once I get home. I shall be departing for home within the next 16 hours, and should be home by this time tomorrow.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jacka* 
I found a very nice Opteron 146 CAB2E 0540FPMW that I did have running very nicely at 300*10, but turned back down to stock speeds due to the heatwave that we had here recently.

My Sandy, which is stepping KACAE 0604GPDW for anybody that is interested, is having a little holiday in a cardboard box.

Unfortunately my RAM has died quite considerably, I think as a result of the winter suicide contest, so it's running at 266MHz :'(

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=601265

Most RAM has a lifetime warranty, simply contact the manufacturer and tell them your woes. Obviously, do not mention any sort of overclocking.









Good Luck


----------



## Jacka

Also, this is the highest speed I've had my 3700+ at:
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=484397

Have a safe journey tomorrow Blitz.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Most RAM has a lifetime warranty, simply contact the manufacturer and tell them your woes. Obviously, do not mention any sort of overclocking.









Good Luck









Two problems with that.

1) I'd need some RAM to use my PC while the RMA is in progress.
2) The sticker shows it is made by Crucial, but it's recognised as Supertalent by CPU-Z, and I can't remember who I bought it from.


----------



## Blitz6804

So it is likely a Supertalent DIMM with a Crucial heatspreader added. Does the heatspreader look like it is original or installed by a third party?


----------



## Jacka

No heatspreaders, I'll take a photograph in a moment.

EDIT: Image added.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
I do believe AMD & Asus both made Dual skt 939 nVidia 3200 boards for servers/workstations.









I thought Dual core on dual socket 939 was unduable. Do you have a link? NOW I want one!

O do you mean for single core cpu's? I want 2 Opty 180's


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
If you are looking at AM2+/AM3 boards stay away from the Sapphire boards, as they are actually made by Jetway, and from experience with their 790GX & 780G Hummer (aka best version they have) series, the BIOS kill those boards to any merit they might have.

Like wise, the Sapphire versions are the same ways, great feature rich boards with terrible, and very limited BIOS.

My Sapphire Pure had a pretty respectable BIOS, it had more options than my NF4 board had. Infact, I think it was a techpowerup review where they were raving about having so many options, especially for the memory.


----------



## Jacka

http://www.crucial.com/uk/store/part...LE=CT12864Z40B

Found the RAM on the Crucial website, but I'm very confused as to why CPU-Z detects it as Supertalent...

EDIT: Super Talent have never even made 128Mx64 DDR, hmm.

EDIT EDIT: Oh, yes they have.


----------



## Blitz6804

Subcontracting?

How win would it be if the Opty 2xx and others worked in Socket 939 instead of Socket 940, and they sold multi-socket 939 boards Hueristic? I would have bought!


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Subcontracting?

How win would it be if the Opty 2xx and others worked in Socket 939 instead of Socket 940, and they sold multi-socket 939 boards Hueristic? I would have bought!

































wouldn't have to move from 939 for another decade!


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*









I thought Dual core on dual socket 939 was unduable. Do you have a link? NOW I want one!

O do you mean for single core cpu's? I want 2 Opty 180's










It seems as though the one I was looking at only worked with single cores for some reason.

But you can have a Tri-Core build of Athlon 64's if you get this mobo 
http://www.newegg.com/product/produc...82E16813153035

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


My Sapphire Pure had a pretty respectable BIOS, it had more options than my NF4 board had. Infact, I think it was a techpowerup review where they were raving about having so many options, especially for the memory.


That's not with their AM2+/AM3 boards. Which are all Jetway now. Sadly.

My bud's got a Skt 939 Sapphire board and it's really nice.


----------



## Jacka

I'd be interesting to see what sort of of 939 CPU and DDR RAM they could make with todays technology.

EDIT: Tator, I believe you have to select which socket you use with jumpers, similarly to how my Asrock board can use an AM2 CPU.
http://www.asrock.com/mb/spec/AM2CPU%20Board.asp


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jacka*


I'd be interesting to see what sort of of 939 CPU and DDR RAM they could make with todays technology.

EDIT: Tator, I believe you have to select which socket you use with jumpers, similarly to how my Asrock board can use an AM2 CPU.
http://www.asrock.com/mb/spec/AM2CPU%20Board.asp


YEAH, It has to be an either or. Otherwise we'd all be oc'ing 754's!


----------



## timxirish

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
ciff1, jacka, Salku, timxirish, Zzyzx: I will be upgrading the roster once I get home. I shall be departing for home within the next 16 hours, and should be home by this time tomorrow.

Ah, my apologies for PMing you while away then. I had intentionally waited to do so, but apparently not long enough.









Anyhow, I should have a finalized overclock for this rig before you get back. For anyone curious, this is my work in progress OC on this rig:










If I remember correctly the FSB is set to 230 atm. Any more and I won't post. Trying to figure out Biostar's OC menu.. In ways it's nicer than DFI's, but in others it appears to be worse. I'll definitely find a way to push more juice out of it though. At the moment my manual overclock is 5% worse than the standard, but less vcore volt and less heat. I think my HTT multiplier is set to 3x as well.

I'll tinker with it and see what I can come up with.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hi guys. I got zapped by the system security 2009 virus malware today. IDK how but I'm doing all that I can to prevent a complete OS re-install. It's funny I never used Avast on this system and now I'm wishing that I had it installed before I got the virus/malware.







I linked a cool virus video in my Share your Favorite YouTube Video found in my sig months ago. It's a pretty cool one if you have never seen it. Here is the virus video I never heard the voice in the video that says " caution a virus has been detected " until a few minutes ago when I installed Avast on this machine for the first time " sig rig ". Oh boy do I ever learn things the hard way. Good thing I have a hard head eh.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hi guys. I got zapped by the system security 2009 virus malware today. IDK how but I'm doing all that I can to prevent a complete OS re-install.


http://www.virusremovalguru.com/?p=796


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks Hueristic, I have read a couple of different set of instructions and my eyes are getting tired from all the reading atm. I may try to do a little more learning tomorrow. I just don't want to make a week long thing out of trying to fix my pc when I could just re install os. Avast is not able to remove some of the files. arg. So I will have to stop system securities before I can delete the files that are causing the problems. I wish I knew where I got it from so that I could learn from it and not do what ever I did. Oh and it was not pron incase any of you are thinking that. I DL several things over the last couple of days. i.e. Klite kodec pack so that I could watch my own dvd's on my pc and a few other files as well. I'm thinking I got it from one of those down loads but am not sure.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Avast is not able to remove some of the files.

N2Gaming, you can set Avast to scan for viruses upon bootup. Also try scanning while in Safe Mode. More than likely the services that the Virus uses are running in the background and that may be why Avast cannot remove them.

Check the article that Hue suggested as well









Good luck buddy


----------



## BlackOmega

Good luck N2, I always hate getting viruses. But honestly I cant remember the last time I got one *knocks on wood*.

But when I do, I dont even mess with I just reinstall.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, you can set Avast to scan for viruses upon bootup. Also try scanning while in Safe Mode. More than likely the services that the Virus uses are running in the background and that may be why Avast cannot remove them.

Check the article that Hue suggested as well









Good luck buddy


I'll have to try that. I alredy had to go into safe mode in order to get my Task Manager to work again. Cntl + alt + del would not work. it's running slower now and I think a reinstall is prolly gonna be the best bet. At least that way I wont always be wondering if I got all of it or if my registry is corrupt. I still have not learned how to repair that. Honesly I think it's just to much learning involved to try and remove a virus when I'm not on the clock getting paid for it. I think I'll go the easy route if I don't have any luck by the end of this week end. Besides to much stress and reading is not good for my eyes. Sorry for crying to all of you. Man this sux...


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Kryton, let us know how that board goes. Joe and I were both looking at that one just recently










Will do as soon as I have it up and running.


----------



## ciff1

3800+ x 2 , lcb9e stepping currently at 2500mhz at 1.4v cpuz ram at stock dd500.
Tried 2600mhz last night fsb 260 ram 520mhz passed custompc mag benchmarks and sandra memory bandwith test, not had time to stress test properly yet so put back to 2500 at moment. Is this a know good stepping. Know it is for opteron 165's.
Stable in all games.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ciff1*


3800+ x 2 , lcb9e stepping currently at 2500mhz at 1.4v cpuz ram at stock dd500.
Tried 2600mhz last night fsb 260 ram 520mhz passed custompc mag benchmarks and sandra memory bandwith test, not had time to stress test properly yet so put back to 2500 at moment. Is this a know good stepping. Know it is for opteron 165's.
Stable in all games.


Yes, your stepping is good and should allow you to achieve some good clocks provided the chip itself is good. This stepping has achieved some great clocks along with the LCBQE stepping used in these cores.

No guarantees though your particular chip will excel, only time and tweaking can tell the story there.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ciff1*


3800+ x 2 , lcb9e stepping currently at 2500mhz at 1.4v cpuz ram at stock dd500.
Tried 2600mhz last night fsb 260 ram 520mhz passed custompc mag benchmarks and sandra memory bandwith test, not had time to stress test properly yet so put back to 2500 at moment. Is this a know good stepping. Know it is for opteron 165's.
Stable in all games.


Ciff1, at this point it probably isn't required to have your memory overclocked. I recommend dropping the divider a few steps down. That way your frequency will drop below the stock speed and give you some more room with your processor. Right now your only 10Mhz overclock but as soon as you start pushing that reference clock higher you may start to run into some memory instability issues. Luckily you have DDR500. That should give you plenty of room when you do decide to play with the memory.

Have you had a chance to find the limits of each component yet (motherboard, processor and memory)? This should give you a nice baseline to play with.

Good luck


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ciff1* 
3800+ x 2 , lcb9e stepping currently at 2500mhz at 1.4v cpuz ram at stock dd500.
Tried 2600mhz last night fsb 260 ram 520mhz passed custompc mag benchmarks and sandra memory bandwith test, not had time to stress test properly yet so put back to 2500 at moment. Is this a know good stepping. Know it is for opteron 165's.
Stable in all games.

As I have been told, an LCB9E Toledo = LCB9E Denmark (Opteron), just that you don't get all the cache and the Opty is supposed to be "more stable".

My 3800+ X2 is LCB9E just like yours, and has passed 2650MHz (265x10) without problems but, due to my motherboards malfunctioning x3 HyperTransport multiplier, I can't test it much further.
However, I did manage to get it stable at 2700MHz (300x9) but I was forced to run with my [email protected]
Oh, almost forgot to mention the voltages. I can't remember exactly but I never went past 1.450V for the OCs I mentioned.

I have been playing around with my OC ever since I installed Windows 7 a few weeks ago and I'm currently running 262x10@1.400V stable for a couple of days now.

I hope that your chip is at least as good as mine and that you have better luck with your board, which you should, lol.


----------



## BlackOmega

Yeah the LCB9E is a good stepping. My opty can get an easy 500MHz OC with either no or very little voltage increase (+.025v), depending on motherboard.
It will definitely run much higher, but I dont have adequate cooling to keep it stable at those voltages/temps.

I run my opty @ 2900MHz 24/7 and have been almost since I got it.


----------



## timxirish

One way you can tell your overclock isn't stable?

1) Buttons don't "click".
2) Your mouse freezes.









Settings for that one was 295 FSB, 9x multiplier, and a 3x htt mult (cant remember a better term for this one). Gave it a few volt nudges, but at 1.4 it's still not stable. Had it been, I would have had the same OC on my lanbox as my main machine.









Somehow I'll figure it out, but if I can get a solid 2.5GHz or 2.6GHz... I'm mostly happy







. After all, I can always try going further distances after I understand the more advanced aspects of overclocking.

Currently I am running the same settings as above, except with a 290 FSB. Could be the droids I'm looking for, for now anyway.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

timx, how is your RAM set up presently? It could be that it's trying too hard to keep up with your CPU speed (and therefore holding it back). Slap a higher divider on that RAM (to slow it down some more) and see if you can set your CPU speed running free!









Good luck.


----------



## Blitz6804

Okay... for those of you following along at home, I got stuck on Long Island another day. I was making good time until I hit the Queens line, at which time, I hit a solid wall of traffic and could not continue. It seems that the Throggs Neck Bridge is closed. ***. So I had to come back until tomorrow when I will try an alternate route not during rush hour. Sorry roster changes, you are pushed back a day as well.


----------



## timxirish

Heh, well actually although I have started doing a manual overclock, I still am relying on a few auto settings here and there... In that sense, this biostar mobo is very nice.







(though I WILL get a screenie of the memory tab of CPUZ uploaded in a moment)

As with most shortcuts though, I understand that there's a good chance it's not the best route to take. My thoughts behind it was I could set everything else up and leave memory divider and timings on auto (memory is the one area I don't fully understand yet). From there I can find FSB and multipier settings that work effectively, then go back and test to see which memory dividers work best with the other settings I cherry picked myself.

What I currently understand about overclocking is the following:

*FSB/HTT* is the main variable in the formula, which I symbolically see as "_x_" (like in a "_mx + b_" formula, where b should equal 0).
*CPU multiplier* is the "_m_" and the solution to the formula is my predicted clock speed in MHz.
*HTT multiplier* becomes "_m_" in a second formula, and "mx" should be <=1000 (can be a little higher, though there's no point. also, now I understand why you said a HTT multi of 2x is fairly unideal in most scenarios, joe







. I'd quote the post, but that had to be a year ago)

*Memory divider* (to me) is something you lower to make your overclock work







. I understand it's affected by the FSB (everything is), though I am unsure of what kind of formula to use to figure out what need. IF I am understanding it correctly, if you take DDR_x_ and do _x_/2, you (ROUGHLY) get the stock FSB of the motherboard you're using. So since I'm using DDR400, that would be 200MHz which is the default of both the 939 motherboards I own.

With that said, if I increase my FSB to 216, wouldn't that mean my RAM is running at DDR433? (using the formula I pictured, it would technically be 432, but I assume I would round up). If I'm toying with my overclock and memory dividers, am I trying to find a sweet spot (and rounding down when necessary)?

The main thing I want to know is how much over the stock ram speed in MHz (effective FSB) is typically okay to push. I'm getting the idea that my ram chokes a little if I push it past DDR433 without changing the divider, as 216 used to be the highest point i'd see stability at (...at least, before i came across OCN







). It's also highly possible I answered my own question from above without fully realizing it.

I'll leave that to the most of my questions for the time being and work on understanding memory timings next. But hopefully someone else will benefit from my mathematical approach and basic questions associated as well.

In the meantime I'll be trying what you suggested Joe, and then if need be, i think I may WRASTLE with some memory timings and information too.









EDIT: @blitz: Ouch! Sorry to hear about the traffic stuff, but no worries on my end on roster updates. Hope tomorrow works out better, traffic wise. Also, you reminded me of 



, so if you happen to be an electronica fan at all, enjoy.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Yo timx, which Biostar board are you playing with?

I wonder if its BIOS terminology is similar to my old TForce 6100-939's.


----------



## Blitz6804

When you have your RAM set to DDR400, your actual RAM speed will always be double your HTT. When you have your RAM set to DDR200, your actual RAM speed will always be exactly your HTT. All other RAM dividers require some math to work out. If you wish, you can get a calculator I made in Excel to help do the math for you.


----------



## timxirish

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Yo timx, which Biostar board are you playing with?

I wonder if its BIOS terminology is similar to my old TForce 6100-939's.










Joe, that is exactly the motherboard I own.









I had heard it was rumored to be either the best, or one of the best 939 matx motherboards on the market, so I hunted one down and managed to purchase my first Opteron 165 in a combo deal with it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


When you have your RAM set to DDR400, your actual RAM speed will always be double your HTT. When you have your RAM set to DDR200, your actual RAM speed will always be exactly your HTT. All other RAM dividers require some math to work out. *If you wish, you can get a calculator I made in Excel to help do the math for you.*


Very useful information. That will surely be helpful in my overclocking experiments. Thanks blitz!









EDIT: Sig rig changed to my lanbox rig. Forgot I changed the name to "Firestarter". Named it that because within the first hour of it running, the PSU let out this wretched burning smell.







Thankfully it's been fine ever since though.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

timx, here is a simple mathematical FACT when it comes to RAM and dividers: No matter what setting it's on, *the RAM clock is always on a divider*.









The RAM is running either synchronously (i.e., on a 1:1 ratio) with the HTT Clock ("FSB"), or it's running asynchronously (something other than a 1:1 ratio).


----------



## timxirish

I'll try and keep that in mind. Thinking about memory dividers is still somewhat confusing despite how I moderately understand it. It's the stock speed that gets me-- From what I understand the RAM will hit it's FSB cap much faster than my CPU will, and the challenge is using those dividers to keep it under it's cap. (that sounds way simpler to me than how I usually think of it; maybe it's just expressing it in written form that's been tripping me up).


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *timxirish* 
I'll try and keep that in mind. Thinking about memory dividers is still somewhat confusing despite how I moderately understand it. It's the stock speed that gets me-- From what I understand the RAM will hit it's FSB cap much faster than my CPU will, and the challenge is using those dividers to keep it under it's cap. (that sounds way simpler to me than how I usually think of it; maybe it's just expressing it in written form that's been tripping me up).

I think you've got the concept down.









Here's a suggestion: Try the "Divide and Conquer" approach to OCing. By this I mean isolating the various subsystems and testing them to find their maximum limits all on their own, then going back after establishing these limits and reintegrating them into the best possible combination.

This means systematically 1) testing the motherboard for its maximum HTT Clock ("FSB") (by setting the CPU multiplier and HT multiplier to low figures - say, 4x or 5x for the CPU and 2x for the HT multiplier - and setting the RAM to a high divider - 1:2 or DDR200 or 100MHz, whichever way it is in your BIOS); 2) testing the CPU for its maximum CPU speed; and finally 3) testing the RAM for its maximum speed.

I'm actually in the process of writing a detailed description of my present OCing adventure (for the current sig rig). Remember those chart templates I shared with everyone a couple of days ago? I'm using specific versions of those charts to document my present OC (I'm very anal about this process, and I do this to facilitate my bad memory).

PM me for a more detailed explanation of my OCing process. It's very detailed, and since I'll be doing that write-up I described in an upcoming thread, I don't want to repeat myself too much.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *timxirish* 
The main thing I want to know is how much over the stock ram speed in MHz (effective FSB) is typically okay to push.

Timxirish, there's really no "set" memory frequency that is too much or too high. Really the only way to find out is to start testing. This all follows under the "finding the limits of each component" rule. Once you've found the limit of your memory then you'll know. Of course all that changes when you start raising the reference clock speed (overclocking the processor).

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Yo timx, which Biostar board are you playing with?

I wonder if its BIOS terminology is similar to my old TForce 6100-939's.









Tim, if this is in fact the board I know from personal use I was able to achieve 280HTT without touching the chipset voltage. FYI the bios has no options at all for chipset voltage. That is the one down side to the 6100-939. Great board, solid performer...just no chipset voltage adjustment in the bios.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *timxirish* 
Thinking about memory dividers is still somewhat confusing despite how I moderately understand it.

Tim, no worries man. I'm still having troubles grasping the whole concept. I probably will forever hahah.

Good luck


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I'm actually in the process of writing a detailed description of my present OCing adventure (for the current sig rig). Remember those chart templates I shared with everyone a couple of days ago? I'm using specific versions of those charts to document my present OC (I'm very anal about this process, and I do this to facilitate my bad memory).

Joe, I look forward to that write up. By the way sorry for posting some info that was semi similar to your last post


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, I look forward to that write up. By the way sorry for posting some info that was semi similar to your last post









I'm looking forward to that write-up myself!









No apologies needed, mate. Just let me take you out to dinner around your birthday.


----------



## timxirish

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I think you've got the concept down.









Here's a suggestion: Try the "Divide and Conquer" approach to OCing. By this I mean isolating the various subsystems and testing them to find their maximum limits all on their own, then going back after establishing these limits and reintegrating them into the best possible combination.

This means systematically 1) testing the motherboard for its maximum HTT Clock ("FSB") (by setting the CPU multiplier and HT multiplier to low figures - say, 4x or 5x for the CPU and 2x for the HT multiplier - and setting the RAM to a high divider - 1:2 or DDR200 or 100MHz, whichever way it is in your BIOS); 2) testing the CPU for its maximum CPU speed; and finally 3) *testing the RAM for its maximum speed.*

I'm actually in the process of writing a detailed description of my present OCing adventure (for the current sig rig). *Remember those chart templates I shared with everyone a couple of days ago?* I'm using specific versions of those charts to document my present OC (I'm very anal about this process, and I do this to facilitate my bad memory).

*PM me for a more detailed explanation of my OCing process. It's very detailed, and since I'll be doing that write-up I described in an upcoming thread, I don't want to repeat myself too much.*









For RAM speed testing, what do you reccomend? I tried memtest for a while, but it takes so long to complete the tests I got a little impatient with it. If there's nothing effective that's faster, I can suck it up and deal. (memory testing has always been the one thing about finding component limits that always hits me like nails on a chalkboard)

And yes, I do remember those charts. I still have them in an overclocking folder in case they could be of use-- I'll have to take a few more looks at them. As for your writeup, do let me know when it's finished







. I've read a lot of guides, but hearing different people put it in their own words creates better understanding of concepts.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Tim, if this is in fact the board I know from personal use I was able to achieve 280HTT without touching the chipset voltage. FYI the bios has no options at all for chipset voltage. That is the one down side to the 6100-939. Great board, solid performer...just no chipset voltage adjustment in the bios.

Yeah, I noticed that







. It's a very nice mobo, but yeah, quirks like that and the nvidia chipset are slightly disappointing (chipset only supports 2x sata and non-gigabit ethernet; I managed to get a gigabit NIC in the deal for the board/cpu though)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

For "basic stability" testing (i.e., when trying out new speeds/timing settings), MemTest86+ is the best test, in my opinion. Its greatest advantage is that all testing takes place outside of the OS environment.

This dramatically decreases the chances of FUBARing your OS installation. Very badly set-up RAM can hose your OS (I've seen this happen myself), so unless you're fond of mounting OS images (or if you're feeling really lucky







) I don't recommend booting straight into the OS when trying out new RAM settings.

If impatience gets to you too easily, do the MemTest86+ "shortcut": Use only Test 5 and Test 8. Run these tests for a minimum of five error-free loops each. It's not as good as a multi-hour MemTest86+ loop, but it's better than nothing.









As far as those charts go, they're meant to be tailored specifically to your motherboard's BIOS settings. Because of non-standard labeling of settings, it's difficult to just take one motherboard's settings and use them on another board. Some BIOSes are more comprehensive (or less comprehensive) than others, after all. But I hope you can get the basic idea behind the settings on the charts and adapt them to your motherboard's specific settings.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *timxirish* 
I tried memtest for a while, but it takes so long to complete the tests I got a little impatient with it.

Timxirish, when it comes to testing nothing can really be quicker. It's a process that is long and drawn out but it's for the best. When I run memtest86+ I typically run tests 5 and 8 each for about 20 minutes or so.

Just take your time and be patient. A lot of tweaking and testing will be involved eventually.

Good luck


----------



## timxirish

Joe, thanks for the warning on ram settings. I didn't realize that was a common cause of OS corruption problems when OCing.

Anyhow, going by what both of you said, guess i'll be sticking to Memtest then (and yes, i do mean memtest86+)







. I can deal with it, but really I just want to take any time efficient approaches I can (for better or for worse). I kind of figured there wouldn't be better than memtest though. It seems to have a very high reputation and has always struck me as the standard. Even moreso when I realized it was integrated into my bioses, haha.

Now I'm actually able to go and tinker with stuff, so I'll try changing some memory settings and read a little on timings-- I remember reading a metaphor for the timings here in an OCN guide, but while it made sense, I really didn't know how to apply the metaphor to timings or how they mathematically interact with each other.

That'll probably be my next series of questions, but I'm really trying to hold back. I like seeking out information, I just hate the feeling that I may be overwhelming someone with my questions.









If necessary, I'll ask simple questions here and there. Going to be on OCN on my Macbook while twisting knobs and dials on Firestarter.

Thanks guys!

Edit: Crap quality photo (that's how webcams roll?), but as you can see I have another cmos reset switch handy. The jumper is so close to the front panel LED/button headder that I often drop it and have trouble finding it and putting it back on... So before it happens again, i'm nipping it in the butt.


----------



## BlackOmega

Tim, in regard to the memory when testing the other components, i.e., mobo & CPU, other than setting the divider so my RAM stays at or below DDR400, and I leave all the timing settings on auto. 
You'll be surprised by some of the setting the board will automatically set the RAM to. With my old A8N32SLI deluxe, it was not uncommon to see timings as tight as 2-2-2-5.

And like Joe and th|nk3r said, its always best to isolate each component. In regards to RAM and timings its typically better to have it running faster than with tighter timings. Although tight timings can also help with bandwidth.

Good Luck


----------



## timxirish

Well, for now I've decided to hold off on finding limits (feel free to let out a big *SIGH* in my direction. i know, i deserve it







), but after messing with my overclock a bit more and readjusting my memory dividers, I'm starting to see some more progress.

FSB is set to 300, CPU multi is set to 9x, HT mult is set to 3x. RAM is getting 2.7v and CPU is getting 1.5v if I remember correctly. My reason for testing it this way was I found a lot of information specific to my motherboard and it's average limits*, as well as a few places that have shared what worked for their opterons, including this post on hardforum.

I decided I would at least play around with the values I saw there (while still being aware that not all motherboards, cpu and ram are created equal) and see what I could dig up... and with the settings I described above.. I could post! I couldn't with stock cpu volt though, or one nudge higher (believe it goes up in .125 incriments).

Now to explain that asterisk, as I was typing this I had memtest86+ running and was going to say I didn't really have an option to take any shortcuts.. it's not accepting input from my keyboard.







... But more importantly, at that moment, test #6 showed quite clearly that my overclock was flawed with a wall of red spam (if you're familiar with memtest86+, which im sure most of you are, you'll know exactly what i mean).

SO, from here I'm going to manually set some loose timings on my RAM (unsure how tight Biostar would have set it) and rerun memtest. Should I fail once more, I will finally get off my butt, isolate these components and find their maximums.









EDIT: Timings are pretty loose right now (thought I'd start loose and tighten later; after this has gone for another hour or so I'll post my timings) and so far great results. I'm halfway through test 7 with zero errors (versus the 342 errors I had last time in test 6).









EDIT2: Success! Killed the time with some Halo Wars, and before I knew it I had gone through 4 passes of each test without error. As I promised, here are my bios settings, including current (probably not final?) ram timings:



What's next? Save my current progress w/CMOS Reloaded and figure out those maximums







. Then I'll move on to finalizing this OC.. maybe bump up the MHz a little more, and tighten the timings a tad.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *timxirish* 
Edit: Crap quality photo (that's how webcams roll?), but as you can see I have another cmos reset switch handy. The jumper is so close to the front panel LED/button headder that I often drop it and have trouble finding it and putting it back on... So before it happens again, i'm nipping it in the butt.









Tim, that's pretty cool. Did you follow a guide online on how to fabricate one or was it all from scratch?

Good luck


----------



## timxirish

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Tim, that's pretty cool. Did you follow a guide online on how to fabricate one or was it all from scratch?

Good luck

Just from scratch. When I was 17 I had my first experiences with soldering and do it yourself electronics. At the time my "victims" were Xboxes. I was fascinated by them due to the fact that they litterally ARE computers modified for gaming. Hard drives were typical IDE, DVD was a modified IDE, motherboard's controller port headers were actually standard USB etc.. and the main interface for making them bend to your will was a 16 pin "LPC". This LPC is almost all to blame for my fondness for modular devices... Though, I could have just soldered the switch direct to the motherboard, but that would be tedious unless surface mounted.

Thanks to a lot of tutorials and my fascination with that, I often salvage old parts and make them into simple things I'd use. The switch i used was a SPDT switch taken from your typical cathode kit. Since I don't ever turn off my cathodes, there's hardly a point for me to have a switch.. So I just chopped it off and used an old CD Audio cable (for IDE cd/dvd roms) for my wires.

The CD Audio cable is ideal for this if you have one laying around, as it has three wires-- which is exactly how many pins the cmos reset header is. What's even nicer is the wire colors: White, Black, Red. Black I use as center, red is the pin you'd short to the middle pin to reset, and white is the other (ie. what you'd *usually* have the jumper connecting to the center pin). The only trouble with it is that the cd Audio cable has four holes:

[W][X]*[R]

If you pretend the above is you looking at the end of the connector, that's how the wires are socketed into the connector. If you were to recreate what I did, you'd have to take a knife and push down a metal tab on the white wire (aka "W"; the tab is visible on the side of the connector) and tug the wire out. From there you'd slide it in to the socket next to the black wire and (if desired) shave off the fourth unused socket of the connector (where "W" used to be). Last thing to do is solder the wires to the three pins on your SPDT switch with the black wire in the middle-- doesn't really matter which side the red or the white are on.

I ought to search the forums and see if someone's posted a guide on this yet. If not I should post one to add it to OCN's library, haha.

Also, last post of mine was edited to include screens of my bios settings. Had success with 300 FSB.







*


----------



## Blitz6804

Okay, attempt to leave again in a few hours. Tim: if you want to be lazy, tell Win6/7's memory test to run on reboot, reboot, change the RAM settings, and let Vista go to work. Also note that sometimes keyboards will not work with Memtest86+ or other DOS-based programs. To rectify that, ensure Legacy USB support is enabled in the BIOS, or alternatively, plug the keyboard into a PS2 port.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Curious findings from my current tests: The Opteron 170 sitting in my present sig rig is a strange lady. I've established that she's a hot runner (one of the hottest chips in terms of reported temperatures I've ever played with -- try a naked chip currently running at 2.60GHz at full CPU load, 44*C Core0 - 48*C Core1 in 27.5*C ambients), but she's singularly impressive in that she can pass my basic stability tests on *1.250V VCore (per the BIOS; CPU-Z reads the VCore at 2.232V)*.

I personally have never encountered a single chip that can do this.









Still testing.


----------



## Hueristic

Tim, If you can get your Cas to 2 that would speed things. 1 is optimal but not usually attainable.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Curious findings from my current tests: The Opteron 170 sitting in my present sig rig is a strange lady. I've established that she's a hot runner (one of the hottest chips in terms of reported temperatures I've ever played with -- try a naked chip currently running at 2.60GHz at full CPU load, 44*C Core0 - 48*C Core1 in 27.5*C ambients), but she's singularly impressive in that she can pass my basic stability tests on *1.250V VCore (per the BIOS; CPU-Z reads the VCore at 2.232V)*.

I personally have never encountered a single chip that can do this.









Still testing.









Gotta love software for false voltages. Lol @ 2.232v


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Heh, yeah, Omega.









Here's where I am presently:










Had to bump the VCore up in the BIOS to 1.275V. 2.80GHz so far, and I'm still below the stock VCore.









I'm still climbing in speed, so that's why I'm only running a 15min full stress run (remember that OCCT starts the test at "idle" for one minute, and ends with a four-minute "cool down" back to idle). Full-bore stress tests I leave for last; these are just to get a sense of where the chip's limit is.


----------



## BlackOmega

Very nice Joe









It seems those 170's are some pretty good chips. I have yet to see one that does not overclock well, and they all seem to do pretty well undervolted at that.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hey Omega, think I can match your current sig rig's 2.9GHz at sub-stock VCore?


----------



## BlackOmega

What is that a 700MHz increase?







You should be able to, on my ultra-d's I can get 2.9 @ 1.31v I just crank it up as a "just in case" measure as every once in a blue moon it might lock up. But then again that could be a driver issue.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

LOL To get to 2.9GHz for me, that's 900MHz.









I've had to bump the VCore up a few notches already.

Am about to go test @ 1.325V BIOS/1.312V CPU-Z.


----------



## simfreak47

Just wanted to drop in and say Hi!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hey-o, simfreak! Don't be a stranger.









Another update: She needs 1.325V (BIOS)/1.312V (CPU-Z), but here she is at 2.90GHz.


















Next stop: The mythical 3.0GHz!

I wonder if she can still do it under 1.350V VCore..?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ciff1* 

Next stop: The mythical 3.0GHz!

I wonder if she can still do it under 1.350V VCore..?









I want 10X !!!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Insta-fail on OCCT, 3.0GHz @ 1.350V BIOS/1.328V CPU-Z.









Needs more VCore...


----------



## jrs

hey guys. Haven't really been following the thread because you guys post way too much







. But I am coming back for help, or maybe just to spew incoherent nonsense









So I am going off to college and I don't really want to bring my massive rig with me. I was thinking about building a new system inside of a thermaltake lanbox. However, from what I have seen the performance gains aren't really that appreciable (in terms of am2 over my 939)?...and the performance I have now seems to be satisfactory for what I am doing(surfing the web and playing source). I would spend no more than 500$ on case, mATX mb, cpu, ram, and gfx card). I am also going to have a pretty nice lappy here(upgraded to 4gb of ram and probably a bigger hd. Tablet PC's are a requirement for VT engineering and this is one of the few that meet their reqs)

I don't even know what I am saying anymore....Basically my options are

1. Only the laptop with a docking station to hook up the keyboard mouse and a 24" monitor

2. Laptop and my 939 system @2.7+ghz in a thermaltake lanbox w/ 2gb of mixed ram (4x512mb) and upgraded graphics for the display. I am in the market for a Biostar Tforce 6100-939 if I go this route. Wanted thread here

3. Laptop and a new am2/am3 system (4gb ram tri/quad core, ect)

All will be running vista business. I am concerned that the laptop will keep me from playing games...which it will. I don't game hardcore, but I would like to play from time to time and take advantage of a new monitor. Option 3 really seems to be out of the question at the moment because it really seems unnecessary. Option 2 I would be concerned about vista running with only 2gb of ram. As I said i seem to be spewing a lot of nonsense. Perhaps someone will be able to pose some questions that will point me in the right direction.

On another note I have been playing with my 939 hardware some more. I have:

-Venice 3000+ topless that does 2.61ghz at 1.53v
-x2 3800+ Manchester 2.75 without a whole lot of effort but it was hottttt
-all the parts in my sig
-AS Rock dual-sata2 mb (dead)
-MSI K8N-neo4 SLI non-platinum (dead as well...a bios chip re-flash might do the trick for me though..I am hoping)
-eVGA matx board (also dead?)

The asrock was in my friend's system. His PSU went out and it seems to have taken everything with it (even the CD drive). The fans spin for a ms when the power button is pressed but nothing happens after that.

The MSI board boots up with no video. I lent it to another friend in working condition and now....yeah. I know the components I had on the board are in working condition so it has to be the motherboard. It responds to a power switch by turning on and it will turn of as well. I had this issue before with the board after my system locked up while running winflash. I knew the bios was the problem then but I don't know what could have provoked it now.

The evga is the board that I am especially interested in since it is matx. It appears that some leads were re-soldered when it was rma'd. there was some blue material over metal strains around the cpu socket. After it didn't boot with video, I scratched off the blue stuff and metal strains. Not a smart idea, but I thought it was some goop and it might be shorting something(never thought a company would re-solder some leads and send it back to the customer). Motherboard still has same no video boot up.

Any suggestions on a way to get any of these working would be great so I can sell, or build up another system. Having a single working 939 motherboard sucks....

This is a lot to process ..and it might not make a whole lot of sense, but help me out if at all possible.

Thanks,

~jrs


----------



## timxirish

First of all... Spoke too soon about my current overclock job. So I was able to POST with 300 FSB... I just bluescreened every single time I tried to boot into windows. I lowered to 298 and kept my RAM settings the same.. but I crashed after 10 mins. Bumped my vcore up another small incriment and it runs fine.









Next update will be with my maximums.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Okay, attempt to leave again in a few hours. Tim: if you want to be lazy, tell Win6/7's memory test to run on reboot, reboot, change the RAM settings, and let Vista go to work. Also note that sometimes keyboards will not work with Memtest86+ or other DOS-based programs. To rectify that, ensure Legacy USB support is enabled in the BIOS, or alternatively, plug the keyboard into a PS2 port.


Thanks for the tip on Vista/win7's memory test feature. I'll try to stick to memtest (ain't so bad if i've got other stuff to do...), but if i'm ever in a pinch I'll definitely do that instead.

Also, come to find out... The bios has USB keyboard support disabled by default







. I forgot about that when I had to reset my cmos.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Tim, If you can get your Cas to 2 that would speed things. 1 is optimal but not usually attainable.


Definitely will if I can. At the very least, I'll try putting it back to 2.5 (the default setting).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jrs*


hey guys. Haven't really been following the thread because you guys post way too much







. But I am coming back for help, or maybe just to spew incoherent nonsense









So I am going off to college and I don't really want to bring my massive rig with me. I was thinking about building a new system inside of a thermaltake lanbox. However, from what I have seen the performance gains aren't really that appreciable (in terms of am2 over my 939)?...and the performance I have now seems to be satisfactory for what I am doing(surfing the web and playing source). I would spend no more than 500$ on case, mATX mb, cpu, ram, and gfx card). I am also going to have a pretty nice lappy here(upgraded to 4gb of ram and probably a bigger hd. Tablet PC's are a requirement for VT engineering and this is one of the few that meet their reqs)

I don't even know what I am saying anymore....Basically my options are

1. Only the laptop with a docking station to hook up the keyboard mouse and a 24" monitor

*2. Laptop and my 939 system @2.7+ghz in a thermaltake lanbox w/ 2gb of mixed ram (4x512mb) and upgraded graphics for the display. I am in the market for a Biostar Tforce 6100-939 if I go this route. Wanted thread here*

3. Laptop and a new am2/am3 system (4gb ram tri/quad core, ect)

All will be running vista business. I am concerned that the laptop will keep me from playing games...which it will. I don't game hardcore, but I would like to play from time to time and take advantage of a new monitor. Option 3 really seems to be out of the question at the moment because it really seems unnecessary. Option 2 I would be concerned about vista running with only 2gb of ram. As I said i seem to be spewing a lot of nonsense. Perhaps someone will be able to pose some questions that will point me in the right direction.


Welcome to the club.







(that is, the lanbox/tforce6100-939 club







.. if you go that route)

Important things to note about the Tt Lanbox-- Black version is a steel chassis, Silver is an aluminum chassis. I bought mine refurbished back in december, and because it was the only one availible for the price, I had to go with black.. So if weight is an issue for you, go for the Silver. Otherwise, if you prefer the black color, just go that route. Weight is really the only difference.

As for a CPU cooler, you can't have anything too fancy. In otherwords there is no hope for anything like a TRUE or SI-128SE. There's just not enough space between the bottom of the PSU and the CPU. I use a Tt Blue Orb and it does decent for me. My vcore is 1.45 and I have an opteron 165 at a 48.6% overclock.. Temps are on average 50C, but this is likely not a load temp. Should also be noted my IHS on the opteron is lapped, but my heatsink isnt.

Check out the beginning of this post of mine for a heap of information on the tforce6100-939 boards. Here is another post of mine where I was showing my heatsink size in relation to the area around it.

Oh, and lastly...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*











Insta-fail on OCCT, 3.0GHz @ 1.350V BIOS/1.328V CPU-Z.









*Needs more VCore...*


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


LOL To get to 2.9GHz for me, that's 900MHz.









I've had to bump the VCore up a few notches already.

Am about to go test @ 1.325V BIOS/1.312V CPU-Z.


 Remember that start up vcore is not the same as the vcore once you get to desktop. Recall in the BIOS there are 3 vcore settings cpu start up, cpu and special. 
IIRC the startup vcore is default (1.35v) where as the vcore once on the desktop is what I set it to (1.3725v)








I totally forgot about the opty 175







then that is definitely a good OC at that low vcore. 
IIRC, going to 3.0 from 2.9, for me, took considerably more voltage than getting to 2.9, from 1.35v to 1.40v-1.425v (depending on board). And then she gets HOT







.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jrs*


hey guys. Haven't really been following the thread because you guys post way too much







. But I am coming back for help, or maybe just to spew incoherent nonsense









So I am going off to college and I don't really want to bring my massive rig with me. I was thinking about building a new system inside of a thermaltake lanbox. However, from what I have seen the performance gains aren't really that appreciable (in terms of am2 over my 939)?...and the performance I have now seems to be satisfactory for what I am doing(surfing the web and playing source). I would spend no more than 500$ on case, mATX mb, cpu, ram, and gfx card). I am also going to have a pretty nice lappy here(upgraded to 4gb of ram and probably a bigger hd. Tablet PC's are a requirement for VT engineering and this is one of the few that meet their reqs)

I don't even know what I am saying anymore....Basically my options are

1. Only the laptop with a docking station to hook up the keyboard mouse and a 24" monitor

2. Laptop and my 939 system @2.7+ghz in a thermaltake lanbox w/ 2gb of mixed ram (4x512mb) and upgraded graphics for the display. I am in the market for a Biostar Tforce 6100-939 if I go this route. Wanted thread here

3. Laptop and a new am2/am3 system (4gb ram tri/quad core, ect)

All will be running vista business. I am concerned that the laptop will keep me from playing games...which it will. I don't game hardcore, but I would like to play from time to time and take advantage of a new monitor. Option 3 really seems to be out of the question at the moment because it really seems unnecessary. Option 2 I would be concerned about vista running with only 2gb of ram. As I said i seem to be spewing a lot of nonsense. Perhaps someone will be able to pose some questions that will point me in the right direction.

On another note I have been playing with my 939 hardware some more. I have:

-Venice 3000+ topless that does 2.61ghz at 1.53v
-x2 3800+ Manchester 2.75 without a whole lot of effort but it was hottttt
-all the parts in my sig
-AS Rock dual-sata2 mb (dead)
-MSI K8N-neo4 SLI non-platinum (dead as well...a bios chip re-flash might do the trick for me though..I am hoping)
-eVGA matx board (also dead?)

The asrock was in my friend's system. His PSU went out and it seems to have taken everything with it (even the CD drive). The fans spin for a ms when the power button is pressed but nothing happens after that.

The MSI board boots up with no video. I lent it to another friend in working condition and now....yeah. I know the components I had on the board are in working condition so it has to be the motherboard. It responds to a power switch by turning on and it will turn of as well. I had this issue before with the board after my system locked up while running winflash. I knew the bios was the problem then but I don't know what could have provoked it now.

The evga is the board that I am especially interested in since it is matx. It appears that some leads were re-soldered when it was rma'd. there was some blue material over metal strains around the cpu socket. After it didn't boot with video, I scratched off the blue stuff and metal strains. Not a smart idea, but I thought it was some goop and it might be shorting something(never thought a company would re-solder some leads and send it back to the customer). Motherboard still has same no video boot up.

Any suggestions on a way to get any of these working would be great so I can sell, or build up another system. Having a single working 939 motherboard sucks....

This is a lot to process ..and it might not make a whole lot of sense, but help me out if at all possible.

Thanks,

~jrs


 Hey jr.









Ok here we go, you're right that there really isn't much of a performance boost between 939 and AM2, only advantage ATM is the price of memory.

With your 3800x2, if you lap it and lap your cooler temps will not be an issue. I have run mine as high as 1.7v and since its lapped and so is my cooler, I never saw temps go above 60*C at the core.

As for your boards, I'd try to get the MSI working if at all possible (depending on price of the BIOS chip). Otherwise you might be better off getting a board off of eBay. 
Does the Evga board have 2 video slots? If so try putting a gpu in the other slot and see if your video works, also cleaning the PCIe slots with a tooth brush and isopropyl alcohol sometimes does the trick as well.

As for running vista, is that a necessity? XP would definitely run better with 2GB of ram.

At any rate, good luck with everything


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Another update:

3.0GHz @ 1.450V (BIOS)/1.424V (CPU-Z).










We're seeing a trend, one of diminishing returns of MHz for VCore increases.


----------



## jrs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *timxirish*


As for a CPU cooler, you can't have anything too fancy. In otherwords there is no hope for anything like a TRUE or SI-128SE. There's just not enough space between the bottom of the PSU and the CPU.


Hmm thats somethign else I was wondering about. Thanks. I was thinking a thermaltake ultima-90 or something might fit but I hadn't really looked into it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *timxirish*


Here is another post of mine where I was showing my heatsink size in relation to the area around it.


Where is this picture you speak of?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


As for your boards, I'd try to get the MSI working if at all possible (depending on price of the BIOS chip). Otherwise you might be better off getting a board off of eBay.


the thing is I am not sure that the bios chip is the problem, though for 11$ I guess its worth a shot.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Does the Evga board have 2 video slots? If so try putting a gpu in the other slot and see if your video works, also cleaning the PCIe slots with a tooth brush and isopropyl alcohol sometimes does the trick as well.


It has 2. I already switched it around, but maybe I'll try cleaning them out

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


As for running vista, is that a necessity? XP would definitely run better with 2GB of ram.


Virginia Tech wants people to run Vista business and I have it available to me for 10$ (I think) through VT. I was thinking for parallelism between my 2 systems it might be better to run vista. I am on server 2003 right now, which would be suitable if need be. Though I can no longer update itunes it finally figured out that I don't have xp. I like my music..though there are other alternative so its not a big caveat. I definitely don't want to buy more ram for my 939 stuff because if end up buying a motherboard and ram, then I am spending quite a bit. The money would be better spent upgrading my platform for the advantage of the cheaper ram. Of note: the "mixed" ram would be 2 dual channel kits. One is crucial ballistix and the other is kingston value ram. Both sets clock pretty high (kingston at ddr580, and the ballistix to ddr600?) though together they probably wont cooperate

Thanks guys


----------



## timxirish

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jrs*


Hmm thats somethign else I was wondering about. Thanks. I was thinking a thermaltake ultima-90 or something might fit but I hadn't really looked into it.

Where is this picture you speak of?


Click on "Sketch" in that link I gave you. It's hidden in a spoiler tag







.

Also, here's some more visual on using that HS in that case (or just visual of how much space is/isn't inside in general): 
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/T.../LanBox/4.html


----------



## Blitz6804

Vista does not much care for only 2 GB of RAM in my experience; turning off Aero could help alleviate this problem. Alternatively, look into getting Windows7; if you preorder, it can be as cheap as $50. It runs much better than Vista on less-than-smoking-edge systems. As to going AM2, I do not recommend it; there is little performance gain of a AM2 K8 as compared to a 939 K8. If anything, I would say that a Brisbane under performs as compared to a Toledo, but it does beat a Manchester. I have not tried a Windsor, but that should be comparable to a Denmark. As BlackOmega pointed out, AM2's courting call is cost; it is far cheaper to build a scratch AM2 build than a scratch 939 build. If you have some parts already, the 939 will likely be the cheaper option. Now, you notice I have only said AM2 so far; if you can go AM2+/AM3, that is, a STARS processor based off Deneb, that would be the way to go. An Agena derived CPU (such as a Kuma) is alright, but not as good as a Deneb-derived CPU. The only issue is the cost of DDR3 and an AM3 CPU. You could go for a cheap AM2+ motherboard and some cheap DDR2-800 (2x2 GB is both ideal and is as cheap as $40 shipped) with an AM3 CPU, and upgrade the motherboard/RAM when you have a larger budget.

Nice tuning so far on the new system Joe; your chip makes me jealous!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Smaller update: 3.1GHz is only stable enough for an OS boot and CPU-Z run. OCCT testing, even at 1.50V in the BIOS, results in an insta-fail.

Currently testing for the lowest possible VCore for 3.0GHz.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Smaller update: 3.1GHz is only stable enough for an OS boot and CPU-Z run. OCCT testing, even at 1.50V in the BIOS, results in an insta-fail.

Currently testing for the lowest possible VCore for 3.0GHz.


3 is perfect. I like nice even numbers, everything seems to run soo much smoother.

Monday (hopefully) I'll be getting my ps back from rma and while I'm at it I'll change my hs to the modded dell one and I think I'll be able to run 300 24/7 [email protected] pretty easy. I'm sure temps were my only limiting factor. My suicides did fine above 300 but I didn't want to push it on a HS designed for a Socket A














(I can still run it 24/[email protected] on this hs







).


----------



## N2Gaming

Is there any difference between the sli dr and the ut sli dr?


----------



## timxirish

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Is there any difference between the sli dr and the ut sli dr?


It's possible they're the same, performance wise.. But I could be wrong. UT (going by what the box says for my Lanparty UT nf4 Ultra-D board) is supposed to mean "UV on, Tweak fun!". Pretty lame acronym, but I guess it means the non UT one isn't UV reactive?

Anyhow, running into a problem with finding my RAM's maximum. Maybe someone's around and knows one way or another on this...?

My RAM is rated at 3-3-3-8, and I believe 2.6v (nevermind, that's correct). So far I haven't been able to post and enter memtest86+ with 2-2-2-6 (on 2.6v, 2.7v and 2.8v) and same goes for 2-2-2-8 (on 2.6v and 2.7v)... I'm setting the timings that way because of the overclocking guide DeathONator posted, but my question is, should I be setting it at 3-3-3-8 instead?

In the meantime i'll try different timings (nudge the ones that greatly affect stability here and there) and try again. I haven't been messing with any of the other timings though-- Leaving those at bios default. If no one's around, no worries. I'll find something that works sooner or later.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Here's a brief primer on RAM timings.

For me, RAM tuning is the most time-intensive part of OCing. So many settings (DFI owners know this better than most), so many things to change, and so many changes to get wrong and get tripped up on.

Key thing to remember when RAM tweaking: Change only ONE setting at a time. Attempting to change too many settings at once will only confuse you when trouble strikes. If you change and test (and take your time doing so) only one thing at a time, when you hit trouble you know exactly what setting ruined that delicate balance that keeps that house of cards together.

Another crucial thing to remember (pun somewhat intended): You almost HAVE to know what your RAM's ICs are when you're playing with them. The reason is so that you know what the voltage limits are, as well as knowing rough guidelines as to how to tune them.


----------



## timxirish

Yes, I know exactly what you mean about DFI... Holy hell batman, those boards are chock full of options and settings. That was probably the most overwheming part of me jumping into OCing-- I was completely lost as to where to start, but I'm getting much better.

ICs? Having an incredibly stupid moment here, but I do know generally what you mean. I'd have to take the heatspreader off for that I'm sure. Is it the RAM chips I'm looking at (most likely?) or an EEPROM? Thankfully my ram is fairly easy to get to in this matx case.

And yeah, that's what I've started to do-- test one thing at a time that is. Setting it at 3-3-3-8, then moving each down a hair to see if I lose stability. Also, thanks for the link.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Timx, you can probably find your RAM from this here list. It's a good place to start when you're tweaking RAM.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *timxirish*


Yes, I know exactly what you mean about DFI... Holy hell batman, those boards are chock full of options and settings. That was probably the most overwheming part of me jumping into OCing-- I was completely lost as to where to start, but I'm getting much better.

ICs? Having an incredibly stupid moment here, but I do know generally what you mean. I'd have to take the heatspreader off for that I'm sure. Is it the RAM chips I'm looking at (most likely?) or an EEPROM? Thankfully my ram is fairly easy to get to in this matx case.

And yeah, that's what I've started to do-- test one thing at a time that is. Setting it at 3-3-3-8, then moving each down a hair to see if I lose stability. Also, thanks for the link.


Tim you could set up a ebay search to send you emails for NF4 SLI or something of the sort and you will get a hit for every DFI NF4 Mobo that get's posted to ebay. I picked up 2x repairable experts for less $20.00 delivered, a SLI DR fully funcitional w/sound riser card for around 20 bucks and a DMG'd Expert Venus that has yest to be tested for about $20.00 bucks







So trust me when I say there are some deals out there to be had on ebay for the DFI mobo's and you are the only factor in wether or not you capitolize on the deals.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Another update:

3.0GHz @ 1.450V (BIOS)/1.424V (CPU-Z).

We're seeing a trend, one of diminishing returns of MHz for VCore increases.



Thats what happens once you hit the 3.0 mark I have found.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Smaller update: 3.1GHz is only stable enough for an OS boot and CPU-Z run. OCCT testing, even at 1.50V in the BIOS, results in an insta-fail.

Currently testing for the lowest possible VCore for 3.0GHz.


 Out of curiosity, have you tried taking the vcore higher? What kind of temps did you see @ 3.0?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Is there any difference between the sli dr and the ut sli dr?


 I don't think I have ever seen one that wasn't a UT, the SLI DR is a higher end board, it should be UT.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jrs*


Of note: the "mixed" ram would be 2 dual channel kits. One is crucial ballistix and the other is kingston value ram. Both sets clock pretty high (kingston at ddr580, and the ballistix to ddr600?) though together they probably wont cooperate

Thanks guys


Sommabish, what the hell is up with kingston? It seems their "high end" HyperX sticks don't oc worth a damn, and their value ram OC's like a beast















My Hyperx sticks go haywire once I exceed DDR400.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *timxirish*


Anyhow, running into a problem with finding my RAM's maximum. Maybe someone's around and knows one way or another on this...?

My RAM is rated at 3-3-3-8, and I believe 2.6v (nevermind, that's correct). So far I haven't been able to post and enter memtest86+ with 2-2-2-6 (on 2.6v, 2.7v and 2.8v) and same goes for 2-2-2-8 (on 2.6v and 2.7v)... I'm setting the timings that way because of the overclocking guide DeathONator posted, but my question is, should I be setting it at 3-3-3-8 instead?


 Like Joe said, only change 1 setting at a time, then you know which one caused your no POST. 
Also what CAS latency were you using?

Good luck


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Timx, you can probably find your RAM from this here list. It's a good place to start when you're tweaking RAM.



















I miss my Ultra DDR400 Handpicked Winbond CH-5, Those sticks were crazy.


----------



## timxirish

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Timx, you can probably find your RAM from this here list. It's a good place to start when you're tweaking RAM.



















Ah, alright cool. Thanks again







. Unfortunately they don't have my old ram (which i'm testing atm), but they do have my newer stuff. Sometime I'm going to be replacing this ram anyway, so I may end up popping that heatspreader off.

Also, I just found which timing was choking me-- it was the Trcd. It really doesn't like running at 2 apparently, but 3 works fine. Going to check to see if there were any other settings that thwarted my progress. Good news is, the CAS latency *can* run at 2, but that's the fastest the bios offers for it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Like Joe said, only change 1 setting at a time, then you know which one caused your no POST. 
Also what CAS latency were you using?

Good luck










Thanks.









And I was using 2. My available options are 2, 2.5 and 3, but luckily it wasn't the CAS latency.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

G.O., I WISH I owned a set of Winbonds of ANY flavor. Those ICs were cuckoo bananas crazy!









Omega, I actually tried to push the chip to go past 3.0GHz. Tried 3.1GHz, 1.5V VCore, insta-fail on OCCT.







The hotter core was spiking to 57*C; that's with 26.5*C ambient temperatures.

Per my initial tests, 1.430V (that is, 1.375V + .04(1.375V) = 1.43V) is the starting point for the CPU to be stable @ 3.0GHz. That will very likely change once I add the RAM into the mix (because the IMC will be more heavily stressed).

Presently testing RAM, so it'll take a few good solid days of testing and analysis before I end up with a consolidated combination of settings for a finalized OC.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I don't think I have ever seen one that wasn't a UT, the SLI DR is a higher end board, it should be UT.


I have the original NF4 SLI DR before they released the UT mobo's, so I guess there is some what of a difference wether it be in revision or naming scheme. If you look up the drivers for the UT NF4 SLI DR mobo you will see the NF4 SLI DR under all the other UT mobo listings.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *timxirish*


Ah, alright cool. Thanks again







. Unfortunately they don't have my old ram (which i'm testing atm), but they do have my newer stuff. Sometime I'm going to be replacing this ram anyway, so I may end up popping that heatspreader off.

*Also, I just found which timing was choking me-- it was the Trcd.* It really doesn't like running at 2 apparently, but 3 works fine. Going to check to see if there were any other settings that thwarted my progress. Good news is, the CAS latency *can* run at 2, but that's the fastest the bios offers for it.


 Is a 2.5 option available to you?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


G.O., I WISH I owned a set of Winbonds of ANY flavor. Those ICs were cuckoo bananas crazy!









Omega, I actually tried to push the chip to go past 3.0GHz. Tried 3.1GHz, 1.5V VCore, insta-fail on OCCT.







The hotter core was spiking to 57*C; that's with 26.5*C ambient temperatures.

Per my initial tests, 1.430V (that is, 1.375V + .04(1.375V) = 1.43V) is the starting point for the CPU to be stable @ 3.0GHz. That will very likely change once I add the RAM into the mix (because the IMC will be more heavily stressed).

Presently testing RAM, so it'll take a few good solid days of testing and analysis before I end up with a consolidated combination of settings for a finalized OC.


 I'd imagine for 3.1 you'd need ~ 1.55v, that's what I need to get my 180 even remotely stable. The biggest problem I have at that point is temps. When I fire up S&M it gets to my limit of 65*C @ the core in a heartbeat it seems, well not really, but pretty dang quick. And that's the L1 test which, from what I have found, to be the second hardest on the CPU.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I have the original NF4 SLI DR before they released the UT mobo's, so I guess there is some what of a difference wether it be in revision or naming scheme. If you look up the drivers for the UT NF4 SLI DR mobo you will see the NF4 SLI DR under all the other UT mobo listings.


















Wow I have never seen one thats not UV reactive. Just for :turd: and giggles, you should grab a black light ans see if it reacts.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Truth be told, I would probably push that far, just to see what would happen.

But pragmatically-speaking, there's no profit in it. I mean, I won't be able to run at that speed 24/7 stable (or anything close) given the cooling I've got available and my hellish ambient temperatures at this time of year. Plus, when the CPU's going that fast, I honestly can't ever tell the difference between 2.8GHz and anything higher at the keyboard level.

With that said, I'd like to see if I can keep this lady running at 3.0GHz with a respectable degree of stability.


----------



## N2Gaming

I think the only difference is in the packaging. Have a look see for your self.










Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*









Wow I have never seen one thats not UV reactive. Just for :turd: and giggles, you should grab a black light ans see if it reacts.










I'll just chalk it up to maybe your being tired from playing to much CSS.







UT is not to be confuse w/UV


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Truth be told, I would probably push that far, just to see what would happen.

But pragmatically-speaking, there's no profit in it. I mean, I won't be able to run at that speed 24/7 stable (or anything close) given the cooling I've got available and my hellish ambient temperatures at this time of year. Plus, when the CPU's going that fast, I honestly can't ever tell the difference between 2.8GHz and anything higher at the keyboard level.

With that said, I'd like to see if I can keep this lady running at 3.0GHz with a respectable degree of stability.


















a TRUE can't keep it cool enough?!

I wonder if lapping it would help. I know my lapped BT on my naked 3500+ does considerably better than the TR XP-120.

The only time you'd ever notice any benefit from that speed would be gaming, it should raise your FPS. I run @ 2.9 due to summer temps and I like it @ stockish vcore, I still want to run a 3dmark run @ 3.1 just to see what I could get.







Ahh cant wait for winter to roll back around.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

N2G, one big difference is that the SLI-DR has four extra SATA ports (controlled by a Silicon Image SATA controller), while the SLI-D only makes do with the four controlled by the nVidia SATA controller.

Omega: Even if I was running water cooling, my temperatures would always be worse than someone who is running in cooler ambients.







It's a huge disadvantage to live in an apartment that's got sauna-like temperatures.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


N2G, one big difference is that the SLI-DR has four extra SATA ports (controlled by a Silicon Image SATA controller), while the SLI-D only makes do with the four controlled by the nVidia SATA controller.


 WOW I don't consider my self a DFI expert but come on guys. UT NF4 SLI DR AND NF4 SLI DR has no comparison to SLI-D









Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


It's a huge disadvantage to live in an apartment that's got sauna-like temperatures.










 Especially when you consider those Southern Cali Temps in the Desert valley.







Riverside area is hot hot hot. My area is hot as well but you guys have the humidity and the santa ana seasonal crap to deal with so that don't make overclocking any easier on ya'll if you don't run AC.


----------



## Zzyzx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Zzyzx, I've added your S939 entries to the roster. Welcome to the club









Are you positive the MSI is completely dead? It may just need a new chipset fan in order for it to POST. It may be overheating to quickly. As for what Kryton said about the GA board, you could easily replace those capacitors. I'm sure we could dig up some guides for you that explains the procedure.

By the way, I've been through Zzyzx road on the way to Glamis, Ca. I never knew such a street existed until my wife showed me









Good luck


Thanks, I'm sure I could at least fix the Gigabyte, but it's just a matter of time around here. It seems like I'm always fixing stuff for home or work or something!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zzyzx*


Thanks, I'm sure I could at least fix the Gigabyte, but it's just a matter of time around here. It seems like I'm always fixing stuff for home or work or something!


Welcome to this thing we call life, Shhhhhtuffff fdon't last forever.









Just teasing man. I am constantly reapairing something, especially when my GF get's mad.









Edit: Oh and by the way, here's a belated Welcome to ya sir. I have been dealing w/the dreaded virus the last couple of days so I have not been my self and forgot to welcome any new members. If I did not get to any new members then take this as my official apology and here's to you becoming a new S939 member.
















Damb we don't have a smiley w/a couple of guys tiping each others glasses.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Omega: Even if I was running water cooling, my temperatures would always be worse than someone who is running in cooler ambients.







It's a huge disadvantage to live in an apartment that's got sauna-like temperatures.










 Very true, when I was screwing around with my 180 and it was -10*F outside, I don't think I've seen my components cooler.









But having a sauna for an apartment has its advantages, you just need to invite lots of chicks with white t-shirts or tanktops


----------



## txtmstrjoe

C-h-i-c-k-s?

What are those?

Little hatchlings from chicken eggs?


----------



## timxirish

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Is a 2.5 option available to you?

Unfortunately, no. Seems like CAS Latency is one of the few (or perhaps the only) timing that I'm able to set at a .5 interval.

Also, I managed to pop heatspreader off my RAM, and it turns out the ICs are Aeneon's. Unsure of what that means for performance, but I heard Aeneon had some nice chips for OCing somewhere. I'll do more searching.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
C-h-i-c-k-s?

What are those?

Little hatchlings from chicken eggs?






































Edit: why am I feeling like a Dk Hd read headed step child right now. Oh f that's right. Them damb silver bullets are kicking my ars right about now, that's why.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *timxirish* 
Unfortunately, no. Seems like CAS Latency is one of the few (or perhaps the only) timing that I'm able to set at a .5 interval.

Also, I managed to pop heatspreader off my RAM, and it turns out the ICs are Aeneon's. Unsure of what that means for performance, but I heard Aeneon had some nice chips for OCing somewhere. I'll do more searching.



timx, what RAM kit are you running exactly?


----------



## timxirish

It's a single stick of OCZ's performance series DDR400 RAM:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820146969

Same specs as those, just with OCZ's traditional (older style) heatspreader. Although it's fairly unimportant, looks like this:


----------



## Zzyzx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
C-h-i-c-k-s?

What are those?

Little hatchlings from chicken eggs?




























Chicks are people who will hurt you if you call them chicks.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *timxirish* 
It's a single stick of OCZ's performance series DDR400 RAM:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820146969

Same specs as those, just with OCZ's traditional (older style) heatspreader. Although it's fairly unimportant, looks like this:









Hey timx, I'm sitting here wondering how you managed to get the heat spreaders off. Those have a life time warranty and if you damaged the sticker you could kiss that goodby. I took the stickers off of my OCZ plats DDR 400 and the heat spreaders were stuck to the IC chips and I was to afraid of damaging the ram ic's to pull the heat spreaders off of the chips.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

timx, I'm willing to wager that your RAM has either BE-5/BE-6 or CE-5/CE-6 (probably the BE/CE-5s), depending on when they were manufactured. They will likely perform similarly to my Mushkin Redline XP4000s (2 x 1GB), which have the Infineon (Aeneon) CE-6 ICs.

Here are my best "basic" timings on my Mushkin Redlines:

CL = 2.5
tRCD = 3
tRP = 3
tRAS = 8

tRC = 8
Command Rate = 1T
DRAM Idle Timer = 16clks

I believe I'm running 2.8V on the VDIMM.

These settings are from my ASUS A8N32-SLI Deluxe, by the way, derived via CPU-Z.


----------



## timxirish

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Hey timx, I'm sitting here wondering how you managed to get the heat spreaders off. Those have a life time warranty and if you damaged the sticker you could kiss that goodby. I took the stickers off of my OCZ plats DDR 400 and the heat spreaders were stuck to the IC chips and I was to afraid of damaging the ram ic's to pull the heat spreaders off of the chips.

While it's true they've got a lifetime warranty, I don't know if I can see myself using this 1GB stick too much longer. Before the end of the year I'll probably be running 2GB (2x 1GB) dual channel OCZ plats in this machine, and since I don't think I'll be doing any extreme volt bumps with the RAM, I decided to just go for it.

It definitely was difficult though. what I did was wedged a flat screwdriver between the two pieces at the top, and shifted where I was wedging it occasionally. I managed to get the sticky stuff lifted off the top half of the ICs on one side, but the bottom was being ridiculously difficult. Luckily there was a bare spot in the middle bottom of the heatspreader (on the side I was able to unstick), and since there were no traces on the pcb there (I assume the giant pad to be a ground-- it was so thick it'd be impossible to "cut" on accident), I used that small spot and carefully wedged it up a tad until I could get my finger between it.

If I do part with this RAM, I'll probably donate it to my sister's rig (i doubt she'd care about dual channel; she'd probably appreciate it).

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
timx, I'm willing to wager that your RAM has either BE-5/BE-6 or CE-5/CE-6 (probably the BE/CE-5s), depending on when they were manufactured. They will likely perform similarly to my Mushkin Redline XP4000s (2 x 1GB), which have the Infineon (Aeneon) CE-6 ICs.

Here are my best "basic" timings on my Mushkin Redlines:

CL = 2.5
tRCD = 3
tRP = 3
tRAS = 8

tRC = 8
Command Rate = 1T
DRAM Idle Timer = 16clks

I believe I'm running 2.8V on the VDIMM.

These settings are from my ASUS A8N32-SLI Deluxe, by the way, derived via CPU-Z.

Very cool-- perfect actually. 2.8v was what I decided would be my absolute max volt on the ram. I have the option of 2.9v, but I'd like to stick with something that feels a little more safe (since they're rated at 2.6v). As for my timings, I currently have it running at 2.0-3-2-6 w/2.8v and it was able to post just fine. (letting it do a test on stock FSB for kicks, after which i'll bump FSB up by 5 and test again)

As for my manufacturer's date, I believe I bought this stick 6 years ago, so the newest it could be is from 2003, though that's really all I can know unless I can make sense of the numbers on the ICs.

Thanks for the info!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
C-h-i-c-k-s?

What are those?

Little hatchlings from chicken eggs?




























Exactly


----------



## N2Gaming

Hmm. Now I keep droping my mouse. It's a good thing I'm not driving. Oh that reminds me to PM some one. Oh yeah, memory hs removal. I do plan on keeping my plats forever as long as I have a mobo to use them in. I also have planned on getting a second pair. I tried once on ebay w/a combo deal for a opty 180 and ocz plats for $200.00 delivered but it turned out the guy was selling ram that was not as listed on the sticker and the cpu was not able to hold a good OC. So needless to say, even though I'm saying it







they both went back to the seller. I also had a bad mobo at the same time. a A8N32 SLI Deluxe that had to go back to the seller. Man I tell ya, you can't be to carefull on ebay. As long as yo ask the right questions to cover your but then you are just fine as long as you purchase via credit card. Any way I'd like to come up on another pair of plats some day soon. I have a pair of Crucial Balistix DDR 500 and another pari of GSkill DDR400. The Gskill have just been sitting for some testing in any of my DFI mobo's and the Crucial is my favorite by far w/tight timings at higher spds. 4.3.4.8 DDR500 on stock volts. I have not been looking for parts lately because I'm trying to sell some shtuf if you know what I mean but I'm always open to any good deals as I'm a deal freak. I still have not heard any thing back about the Bad Vid Cards that I bought here over a couple of weeks ago. Me sighs, I guess I'll just have to wait and be patient like when I was waiting for them to be delivered. I think I have peeked and am coming down.









Edit: some idiots are doing donuts some where in the neighborhood and I hear them skweelingn their tires. Time to put a few more bullets in the freezer em tinks


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *timxirish* 
I ought to search the forums and see if someone's posted a guide on this yet. If not I should post one to add it to OCN's library, haha.

Timxirish, I look forward to that guide. I'm a visual person so I enjoy lots of pictures









Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Edit: some idiots are doing donuts some where in the neighborhood and I hear them skweelingn their tires. Time to put a few more bullets in the freezer em tinks

Side note: Do not squeal tires in front of N2Gaming's house...


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Side note: Do not squeal tires in front of N2Gaming's house...

LOL ROFLMAO







I'm Talking about the Rocky Mountain drinks. I'd never shoot any one for havin fun but I would protect my family.









Edit: speaking of silver bullets, they should be cold enough to drink by now. Uhm yes they are.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Side note: Do not squeal tires in front of N2Gaming's house...

I don't think my car has enough torque to do burnouts and be able to squeal the tires.

Lemme take your 'stang, though. I think I can get away clean without any bullet holes.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I don't think my car has enough torque to do burnouts and be able to squeal the tires.

Lemme take your 'stang, though. I think I can get away clean without any bullet holes.


















I'd be carefull doing that in a stang in my court. I might think you were calling me out or staging another Ganking spree on my 98 GT.

Edit: I was just wondering if there is a way to save all HDD files and/or copy my complete HDD onto a DVD and boot up my system off of a DVD instead of a HDD??? Oh before any one says yes Linux live cd, I mean copy XP to a live CD for booting XP off of a DVD Drive.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Lemme take your 'stang, though. I think I can get away clean without any bullet holes.

Joe, I use to do donuts until I found out I had to purchase new tires. This was when I was 18 and dumb hahahahh. I'm sure Omega has had his share of donuts in his mustangs









By the way, when are you throwing in the "golden chip"? I want to see her overclocked. During my testing I couldn't hit anything above 3.0 Ghz stable without a voltage bump. It's stable at 3Ghz with 1.34volts.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, I use to do donuts until I found out I had to purchase new tires. This was when I was 18 and dumb hahahahh. I'm sure Omega has had his share of donuts in his mustangs









By the way, when are you throwing in the "golden chip"? I want to see her overclocked. During my testing I couldn't hit anything above 3.0 Ghz stable without a voltage bump. It's stable at 3Ghz with 1.34volts.

You know, I don't think I've ever done donuts in a car.







Not liking the feeling of going sideways when going fast probably has something to do with that. Though there have been quite a few times I've had to do some quick counter-steering when a power-oversteer slide was starting in a really powerful RWD (Corvette C5, testing for Chevy many years ago at Pomona).

As far as the "goldie" goes, well... I think I want to do some RAM testing (MemTesting downstairs, actually) before I throw her in. I'm actually considering decapitating her.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I'm actually considering decapitating her.










 Hmm, Pictures of the event would be ever so delightfull to us all.









Edit: Hey guys, are you feeling extra special and would like to purchase a BNIB DFI NF4 SLI DR Expert Venus mobo? Well if so then here is a link for ya.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I'd be carefull doing that in a stang in my court. I might think you were calling me out or staging another Ganking spree on my 98 GT.


If a certain Grabber blue w laserstripe 71 Torino GT comes around, get ready cuz it's me. 
Yes, it's got a .030 overbored 466CID big block under the hood....

Also hoping I don't put up too much tiresmoke for you to see through.


----------



## Syrillian

Look!


----------



## shifty22123

Good thing I just saw this thread! I have tons of S939 motherboards and cpu's. If someone can message me the name of a member who needs something badly I can hook him up. I'm not going to give it to someone who has a i7 rig he isn't showing

Any mods who reads this can help me out. I'm posting it here because I'm guessing the members in here would appreciate it more

Shifty


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shifty22123*


Good thing I just saw this thread! I have tons of S939 motherboards and cpu's. If someone can message me the name of a member who needs something badly I can hook him up. I'm not going to give it to someone who has a i7 rig he isn't showing

Any mods who reads this can help me out. I'm posting it here because I'm guessing the members in here would appreciate it more

Shifty


Yes we would appreciate them and thanks for posting about it. If wanting to know who needs what, just keep an eye on this thread.


----------



## Blitz6804

N2Gaming: You know Joe is coveting that just for his quest to try every 939 mobo ever made...

Joe: I thought your Civic was front wheel drive, and as such, it would be darn near impossible to do donuts with it.

All: Roster update is in the works.

Joe: One of these days, I would love to have you come here and try some clocking. Your superior cooling systems with my crazy-low-ambient temperatures should result in epic wins. I just checked with Pez; my ambient is almost 5Âº C cooler.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Syrillian*


Look!











Congrats Joe









Quote:



Originally Posted by *shifty22123*


Good thing I just saw this thread! I have tons of S939 motherboards and cpu's. If someone can message me the name of a member who needs something badly I can hook him up. I'm not going to give it to someone who has a i7 rig he isn't showing


Shifty, thank you for letting us know. I'll keep my eye for a member that is in dire need of S939 parts.

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, I use to do donuts until I found out I had to purchase new tires. This was when I was 18 and dumb hahahahh. I'm sure Omega has had his share of donuts in his mustangs









Why yes, yes I have







. On average I'd buy 4 set of rear tires per year. And only a little of that was from donuts. The car had so much torque that it was actually difficult to get going without spinning the tires. And believe it or not I used to drive that car in the snow. Reminds me of a time I got caught with slicks on the back and a snow storm hit.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
You know, I don't think I've ever done donuts in a car.







Not liking the feeling of going sideways when going fast probably has something to do with that. Though there have been quite a few times I've had to do some quick counter-steering when a power-oversteer slide was starting in a really powerful RWD (Corvette C5, testing for Chevy many years ago at Pomona).

Now I'm jealous. I would've loved to even had to opportunity to drive a car like that on a real race track. Goes to show you how good turd







those Goodyear tires are don't they.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Hmm, Pictures of the event would be ever so delightfull to us all.









Edit: Hey guys, are you feeling extra special and would like to purchase a BNIB DFI NF4 SLI DR Expert Venus mobo? Well if so then here is a link for ya.


Wow $425!!!! starting bid! It does come with a FX57 and some ram but still! Holy smokes thats expensive.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
If a certain Grabber blue w laserstripe 71 Torino GT comes around, get ready cuz it's me.
Yes, it's got a .030 overbored 466CID big block under the hood....

Also hoping I don't put up too much tiresmoke for you to see through.









Pics of said car? But thats awesome kryton, are you in GB or the US? If you're in GB how can you afford gas for that thing?








Great color BTW, my fav for the old school muscle cars.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shifty22123* 
Good thing I just saw this thread! I have tons of S939 motherboards and cpu's. If someone can message me the name of a member who needs something badly I can hook him up. I'm not going to give it to someone who has a i7 rig he isn't showing

Any mods who reads this can help me out. I'm posting it here because I'm guessing the members in here would appreciate it more

Shifty

We're always on the look out for parts.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 

*Joe: I thought your Civic was front wheel drive, and as such, it would be darn near impossible to do donuts with it.*

Its not impossible or even very difficult, you just have to do them backwards









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Syrillian* 
Look!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


N2Gaming: You know Joe is coveting that just for his quest to try every 939 mobo ever made...


 ha ha, yup I'd like to have a new one just for side by side Overclock comparisons between the SLI DR vs SLI DR Expert Venus. Still to much money for my blood. Well to be honest it is coveted as the best of the best for Socket 939. I see People today buying Intel Mobo's close to that price for Todays Technology that will eventually be outdated as well. I'm not saying 939 is outdated but it's seen it's hayday and is not sought out as much in general but more or less by those in the know that hold a special place in there heart for one bad mother socket design. I'd like to take a class just to learn how to repair mobo's & other electronics so that I can keep this thing going for a very long time. I can see it now. I'm in an old retirement home and sitting in a group of old farts/geezers talking about my beloved Venus Mobo.








Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


We're always on the look out for parts.









Wow $425!!!! starting bid! It does come with a FX57 and some ram but still! Holy smokes thats expensive.

Quote:



Quote:



N2G


Just for you Joe:






























































 Totally agreed & could not say it any better my self.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Heh, I wish I could afford that Venus.

To be honest, though, speaking purely for myself it's a bad investment. I've got the SLI-DR Expert already (NIB still); I may wind up never playing with that board. The Venus has some extra special little touches (like all solid caps and cool packaging, not to mention built-in bragging rights due to exclusivity), but it's essentially the same board as the SLI-DR Expert.

Plus I've yet to solve the riddle that is the CFX3200!


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Heh, I wish I could afford that Venus.

To be honest, though, speaking purely for myself it's a bad investment. I've got the SLI-DR Expert already (NIB still); I may wind up never playing with that board. The Venus has some extra special little touches (like all solid caps and cool packaging, not to mention built-in bragging rights due to exclusivity), but it's essentially the same board as the SLI-DR Expert.

Plus I've yet to solve the riddle that is the CFX3200!










Joe what do you think is better, the SLI DR Expert or the CFX3200?


----------



## Blitz6804

If my Toledo is in fact not dead, I might look into a good mobo and RAM. I am not sure about it though.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *simfreak47*


Joe what do you think is better, the SLI DR Expert or the CFX3200?


If you have one that's healthy, the CFX3200 is much-vaunted as an overclocker. Some of the craziest S939 OCs I've seen (try circa 3.3GHz+ on H2O) have been done with a CFX3200.

Having said that, though, your expected results have much to do with the other parts of your hardware as well. You need a great chip, great RAM, a solid PSU. You also need a saint's patience, since its BIOS is more complicated and intricate than most. Just for RAM tuning alone, I think there are almost forty different adjustments (not counting VDIMM) you can make.

The SLI-DR Expert is more forgiving, but it also requires an expert's touch to get the most out of it. But, on the whole, I think DFI did a much better job on the nF4-series motherboards in terms of user-friendliness (and therefore, usability) than the ATi-chipset boards.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Heh, I wish I could afford that Venus.


 I second that thought.
Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


To be honest, though, speaking purely for myself it's a bad investment.


So true but what if.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I've got the SLI-DR Expert already (NIB still); I may wind up never playing with that board.










Have you been holding out on us? I'd like to see some Expert action.







How did you manage the NIB Expert if you don't mind me asking?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


If my Toledo is in fact not dead, I might look into a good mobo and RAM. I am not sure about it though.


Did you ever post a picture of the damaged ic on the Toloedo? I can't remember. I do remember a member telling you that you may be able to revive the cpu w/a ic replacment. Good Luck.


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, she is in Joe's loving hands now... if he cannot resurrect her, she wants to stay dead.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 

Plus I've yet to solve the riddle that is the CFX3200!









MWHAHAHAHAH! I think I beat you to that one. mine is still up and running other than the lockup on initial startup issue she's working perfectly.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
If you have one that's healthy, the CFX3200 is much-vaunted as an overclocker. Some of the craziest S939 OCs I've seen (try circa 3.3GHz+ on H2O) have been done with a CFX3200.

Having said that, though, your expected results have much to do with the other parts of your hardware as well. You need a great chip, great RAM, a solid PSU. You also need a saint's patience, since its BIOS is more complicated and intricate than most. Just for RAM tuning alone, I think there are almost forty different adjustments (not counting VDIMM) you can make.

The SLI-DR Expert is more forgiving, but it also requires an expert's touch to get the most out of it. But, on the whole, I think DFI did a much better job on the nF4-series motherboards in terms of user-friendliness (and therefore, usability) than the ATi-chipset boards.

I'll have to agree with that, although the CFX is a great board and has tons of options, my Ultra-d's seem to be more stable and require less voltage.

I'll have to see how many actual adjustments there are for the RAM, but there is definitely a lot. But then again DFI gives you ALOT more RAM options than most other companies in general.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Pics of said car? But thats awesome kryton, are you in GB or the US? If you're in GB how can you afford gas for that thing?








Great color BTW, my fav for the old school muscle cars.

Why the US of course.

Don't have any pics







to share and in reality, it's in less than pristine shape, definitely not what it used to be.
I've had it since high-school and after pulling the original 351 Cleveland out, stuffed this in using my brother's 70 Torino Cobra (429 SCJ) as the template to set it up. That was done not long after high school and it's been years ago now since it was done.

Still looking foward to the day I can go through it, redo it top to bottom and start driving it occasionally again. Need to repaint, rebuild the engine and trans, really more or less a full-on restoration.
Yes it really loves gasoline. 6mpg on a good day but it's a *Fast* 6mpg.

See guys? There's more than one way to go fast.

Speaking of such things, I'd love to try out a Venus core with my setup one day.


----------



## jrs

wooot my MSI board just fired up. I found a trace near the cpu socket that was broken and I got my dad to solder it up. Don;t really know how we managed it considering its so small and the soldering iron was definitely far from a fine point. Initially the card in the first pci-e slot didn't work, but I placed it in the second one and my monitor turned on. I thought I had already switched it so...hmm. In any case I have another motherboard







(2 of 4 working)

Edit: just placed my 6600gt in the first slot and that one works now as well...odd but sickkk


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


I'd love to try out a Venus core with my setup one day.


Are you speaking of CPU or Mobo? I use to make the mistake of calling the Venus mobo a Venice and blitz corrected me on that because I kept confusing him w/my post's. Venus = Mobo & Venice = CPU

Hey Kryton. I'd prolly be able to hear you coming down the block w/your big block by the sound of things. Huh? No worries I'd be staring in shock while being amazmeed by any car w/the ability to do donuts in my court.







I can't afford the tires other wise I would prolly do it in my cars but in the industrial zones after hours in the parking lots like they do in southern cali near the auto auctions by Hwy 15 & HWY 10 in Miraloma.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Nah, N2G, not holding out on anyone. I got that sometime early last year, when I was struck with DFI-mania for the first time. Found that honey on eBay, as a matter of fact. Paid a reasonable price for it. Just over a hundred American, as I recall.

I've been lucky, I guess, in my adventures acquiring hardware from eBay. Not one has been broken, and quite a few times I've gotten sealed-in-box hardware. This SLI-DR I'm tuning right now, in fact, was BNIB.

The board I've been most unlucky with is my CFX3200. My brother-in-law alerted me to a buddy of his who ran his at stock for the time had owned it. He had a few troubles with it (freezes and lockups) that he couldn't explain or troubleshoot, so he told my brother-in-law that he was selling it. My brother-in-law, in turn, told me about it. Fifty bucks later, I had my first CFX3200.









(Some days, though, I wish I could have my money back.







)

Then there was the time my neighbor sold me an SLI-DR for $20.00. Used, but in very good shape.

Someone in this group owns that board now...


----------



## N2Gaming

joe you sure do seem to have the gift of ebay on your side.







I especially like how you wish you had your money back for the CFX3200







I have felt like that more then once.


----------



## maj1stic

i know i can get higher


----------



## thlnk3r

Guys, all this talk about DFI boards is making me not want to sale my SLI-DR haha

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jrs* 
wooot my MSI board just fired up. I found a trace near the cpu socket that was broken and I got my dad to solder it up. Don;t really know how we managed it considering its so small and the soldering iron was definitely far from a fine point. Initially the card in the first pci-e slot didn't work, but I placed it in the second one and my monitor turned on. I thought I had already switched it so...hmm. In any case I have another motherboard







(2 of 4 working)

Jrs, that is awesome man. That is really cool that your Dad was able to fix the board. I always love repairing damaged/failed hardware. Makes everything worth wild









Quote:


Originally Posted by *maj1stic* 


i know i can get higher

Maj1stic, great looking overclock. I've added you to the roster. Welcome to the club!

Good luck guys


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Please welcome our newest member, maj1stic!









I hope you enjoy your stay with us.









Update: These Crucial Ballistix Tracers are trying my patience.







Despite all the testing and the myriad settings changes, I cannot squeeze more than 11MHz from this RAM kit. You ought to see my charts which shows all the changes to the settings; incremental, systematic trial and error seems to be getting me nowhere fast.









On the other hand, I can run these sticks at 2-3-2-5 fairly well. I'm now testing which RAM divider option works best. The bandwidth @ DDR300, I have to say, is pretty pathetic.


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


G.O., I WISH I owned a set of Winbonds of ANY flavor. Those ICs were cuckoo bananas crazy!










Check the ones in my sig rig. Winbond UTT BH-5 (new BH-5 -- not as good as the old stuff, but close) with Brainpower PCB. Unfortunately, I've never had the chance to really push them because I've never owned a board that would put out 3.5 vDIMM. I wouldn't mind sending them your way if you have something to send back my way. Preferably TCCD







.

Apparently, the guys over at XS have had a blast with these.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...ad.php?t=58386

I took these out of my case because I'm shipping my mobo off for a better one (Abit AT8-32X), so I put them back in their retail packaging. Here's a pic.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Are you speaking of CPU or Mobo? I use to make the mistake of calling the Venus mobo a Venice and blitz corrected me on that because I kept confusing him w/my post's. Venus = Mobo & Venice = CPU


Venus 146, 148, or anything along those lines. Great OC'ers and wondering what I could get one to do.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Venus 146, 148, or anything along those lines. Great OC'ers and wondering what I could get one to do.


Oh wow. thank you for the clarification. Sorry for trying to correct you when I am the one in need of being corrected again.









Yeah I'd like to see what you could do w/a Venus 146, 148 as well. Good luck finding one.

N2G


----------



## txtmstrjoe

@ decimate: I wish I had TCCDs!







Best RAM I've ever played with are the Infineon/Aeneon CE-6s. They clock really high. Bad thing is, they have this nasty habit of inducing 3D anomalies (in games, or a program like 3DMark06) once they go past around 260MHz or so. You HAVE to have a certain BIOS setting to compensate for that (of course, I'm forgetting which setting that is at the moment...







).

@ Kryton: The Venus chips are essentially the same as the San Diegos. Feature-for-feature, they're identical. They even share the same stepping codes.


----------



## jrs

wait...to run a 939 topless it looks like I need to shave the socket down some?

hmmm


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Why the US of course.

Don't have any pics







to share and in reality, it's in less than pristine shape, definitely not what it used to be. 
I've had it since high-school and after pulling the original 351 Cleveland out, stuffed this in using my brother's 70 Torino Cobra (429 SCJ) as the template to set it up. That was done not long after high school and it's been years ago now since it was done.

Still looking foward to the day I can go through it, redo it top to bottom and start driving it occasionally again. Need to repaint, rebuild the engine and trans, really more or less a full-on restoration. 
Yes it really loves gasoline. 6mpg on a good day but it's a *Fast* 6mpg.

See guys? There's more than one way to go fast.

Speaking of such things, I'd love to try out a Venus core with my setup one day.


 I don't know why but I was under the impression that you lived in GB.








OOO a Torino with a 429SCJ, that would be one sick car to drive. Huge but fun.








I had that same dream with my '79 Mustang Ghia Sport. Unfortunately, I found out the reason why the 79-82 mustangs weighed ~1000 lbs. less than the 83-93 models. After I built the bejeezus out of the motor, racing a buddy of mine, I managed to tear the whole r. right axle+torque box+lower control arm clean off of the car. Cracked the frame right above the rear axle too.








I stripped it down and shipped it off, later on I had found out what I really had. 1 of 1500 built.







Oh well, it was fun while it lasted.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jrs*


wait...to run a 939 topless it looks like I need to shave the socket down some?

hmmm


Not the socket, but the HSF retention module.

Fortunately, it's easy to see how much material you have to remove. When you take the stock retention module off, you'll notice that there are four "bumps" at the corners. Those bumps are the same height as the IHS. Just file these off (or sand them off, whatever), and voila, you're ready to run topless.









On the other hand, last year, when the Club had our "Stock Cooling Only Overclocking Contest," I ran a topless chip with a stock cooler without modifying the retention module at all. It worked well enough for me. So maybe it IS possible, depending on the cooler you use, to not even bother modifying the stock heatsink retention module.


----------



## timxirish

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
So maybe it IS possible, depending on the cooler you use, to not even bother modifying the stock heatsink retention module.









I have never run a topless chip, but I may consider it soon... But in regards to that part I quoted, I believe there would be nothing holding a Tt Blue Orb II cooler from being seated properly on a lidless cpu. (screwing it in properly actually warps the mobo a little







)

Out of curiosity, how difficult is it to re-lid a cpu after you've gone lidless? If I go lidless, it's going to be in this lanbox due to how the motherboard lies parallel to the floor (paranoid about doing that with my main rig, especially with a SI-128SE







). If I go that route, i'd also probably give my main rig the lapped opty.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

timx, I've never ever performed "corrective surgery" and re-attached the IHS. I seem to recall a discussion about how to do so in this thread about a couple of weeks or so ago.

As far as using your SI-128SE on a perpendicularly-mounted motherboard (as in a typical tower case), fret not, my friend. I've been running my "Darth Ominous" rig with such a cooler (actually, that machine has seen maybe around ten different heatsinks in its existence) with nary a problem.

And yes, it currently runs a topless Opteron as well.


----------



## jrs

hmm I thought the raised area on the white plastic around the socket was too high and keep it from sitting flat...i put something there and it didn't look like it got all the way down...

ON another note I threw my opteron into the supposedly revived msi. Its acting odd. Some characters in the bios are screwed up and I am able to set the multiplier on my opteron 165 to 9.5x which is super odd. Not to mention it froze up in the bios once...

Edit:10x was just available I set it..but it went away

Edit 2: tons of typos...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

jrs, that is SUPER WEIRD.

I've never seen that happen before.

EVER.


----------



## jrs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


jrs, that is SUPER WEIRD.

I've never seen that happen before.

EVER.











well I set it to 10 and rebooted. The bios set it back to 9 and the option was gone so that excitement is over. I did a bios flash to see if that would clear some things up and that turned out to be bad idea. I am back to no video....I should have just booted something. Though it refused to boot my linux thumb drive..some kind of error, even though it works on other computers.


----------



## timxirish

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


timx, I've never ever performed "corrective surgery" and re-attached the IHS. I seem to recall a discussion about how to do so in this thread about a couple of weeks or so ago.

As far as using your SI-128SE on a perpendicularly-mounted motherboard (as in a typical tower case), fret not, my friend. I've been running my "Darth Ominous" rig with such a cooler (actually, that machine has seen maybe around ten different heatsinks in its existence) with nary a problem.

And yes, it currently runs a topless Opteron as well.










Ah, I must have barely missed it then







. I may as well just try it sometime then. It's probably much harder to accidently bend pins while delidding than while lapping anyway.

I'm just generally worried because of how wonky half of the other things are in my case-- Raidmax didn't ship me a full set of mobo mounts when I bought my case from them, so I used what was on hand.. And out of my few spares, all of them were 1-2mm taller than the others







(<-- this smiley effectively represents how I fret about mobo warping).

The only other wonky part about my case is the PCI slots. When installing a card, none of them correctly fit. They go into the slots on my mobo, but the metal piece you screw to the chassis never sits flush. Instead, that as well sits 1-2mm higher than it should







.

What I really need to do is find a way to work on my case mod and finish it. Man, once that case is done, it's going to be wonderful. There's a bit more room inside, and it appears it'll be less problematic with cable management.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


@ Kryton: The Venus chips are essentially the same as the San Diegos. Feature-for-feature, they're identical. They even share the same stepping codes.










Oh yes, knew that already but the Venus core chips just seem to do better on average for some reason.

Speaking of topless chips, the 4000+ San Diego I posted with earlier is topless. Made a small but noticeable difference in temps that helped me get to 3.4GHz with it. I know it can do more if I can just get things cool enough.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
racing a buddy of mine, I managed to tear the whole r. right axle+torque box+lower control arm clean off of the car. Cracked the frame right above the rear axle too.

BlackOmega, I think the uppers on mine where it's attached to the body are starting to show wear. I replaced my lower control arms with maximum motorsports (adjustable) a while back so those are good to go. Apparently the cracks and show of wear is normal for the fox body (from what I hear).

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jrs* 
ON another note I threw my opteron into the supposedly revived msi. Its acting odd. Some characters in the bios are screwed up and I am able to set the multiplier on my opteron 165 to 9.5x which is super odd. Not to mention it froze up in the bios once.

Jrs, I had similar symptoms when my bios chip was low on voltage. Make sure the voltage of the cmos battery is 3.0 volts or higher. I believe mine was around 2.70'ish. I was seeing some weird things in the bios. There were some options that were listed twice. At times it would freeze during POST and even in the bios.

Good luck

EDIT: Forgot to mention this. I had a Opteron 146 Venus CAB2E stepping and it was a horrible overclocker. I couldn't get her stable anywhere past 2.7Ghz.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, I think the uppers on mine where it's attached to the body are starting to show wear. I replaced my lower control arms with maximum motorsports (adjustable) a while back so those are good to go. Apparently the cracks and show of wear is normal for the fox body (from what I hear).

Its always a good idea to replace all the control arms. You can use adjustable ones but then the problem become do you have the proper tools to set the pinion angle.

As for the cracks, well the crack that formed on my car was about an 1 1/2" wide and right above the axle tube. Needless to say not the common place for that to occur.

And yeah the torque boxes do form cracks eventually leading to creaking and such, that is usually a result of hard driving.
Some people weld in battle boxes or simply weld up the seams.


----------



## ciff1

Not had a chance to find the maximums yet, shared pc with family!.Been reading the guides online etc.Ram - thought it was better to run this on 1:1 ratio and o/c rather than use a divider ? Does'nt a divider slow the system down i thought.Also cpu max temps under load whats opinion 55c load or 60c max!
The tcase max on my chip is 63c.
Also max volts on air 1.6v, I wouldn't want to use anymore than 1.55v
Best guide to finding the above?.Not been o/cing long, but read up on alot of theory!


----------



## Blitz6804

RAM bandwidth is usually* higher with a 200:200 divider as compared to any other divider. However, if your CPU can only get up to 2600 MHz with a 200:200 divider, but 3000 MHz with a 200:166 divider, rest assured, the extra 400 MHz should* counteract the decreased memory bandwidth.

*As always, this indicates the general trend, not the absolute rule, and your mileage may vary.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ciff1* 
Not had a chance to find the maximums yet, shared pc with family!.Been reading the guides online etc.Ram - thought it was better to run this on 1:1 ratio and o/c rather than use a divider ? Does'nt a divider slow the system down i thought.Also cpu max temps under load whats opinion 55c load or 60c max!
The tcase max on my chip is 63c.
Also max volts on air 1.6v, I wouldn't want to use anymore than 1.55v
Best guide to finding the above?.Not been o/cing long, but read up on alot of theory!

Ciff1, the ram divider lowers the memory frequency. Usually this is done so that you have some more overclocking room with the processor. When you raise the reference clock speed the memory frequency also goes up which can sometimes cause stability issues. Lowering the divider will allow you to avoid those memory issues most of the time.

In regards to temperatures, 55C full load is fine. 60C is ok but I'd try not to go any higher than that. At the most maybe 62C - 63C. My previous Opteron 170 would lock up around 64C during Orthos testing. For Vcore I wouldn't go any higher than 1.5 volts (on air). Water cooling or some other exotic cooling method may allow you to go higher.

Good luck


----------



## Hueristic

YEEH HAW! I caught up again finally! WHY o Why does this club go post nuts when I'm looking the other way!!!









Well I multi quoted about 10 posts and will probally never get to them the other two text files I saved that I planned on getting too.









So anyway this post is my bookmark. Real busy but got caught up reading and couldn't stop. #@%#$%@ that multiplier issue with the solder trace has my mind in overdrive.







I have to much to do and think about but all I can think about now is getting a 10X on my 165!









AND JOE CONGRATS!!!! nice to see you get some loveing for the great job you have done! Now it's thinkr's turn.









OK gotta go work on the dishwasher some more.







Found the problem and am putting it backi together now. YAY clean dishes FTW!!!

Ohh and my TTS is up and running (not finished yet).


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Ohh and my TTS is up and running (not finished yet).


Hueristic, is the "TTS" that custom case you were building? Whatever happened to that mod?

Good luck


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Jrs, I had similar symptoms when my bios chip was low on voltage. Make sure the voltage of the cmos battery is 3.0 volts or higher. I believe mine was around 2.70'ish. I was seeing some weird things in the bios. There were some options that were listed twice. At times it would freeze during POST and even in the bios.

+1 to what it sounds like and although most any fresh battery will do, I've noticed the Energizers are the ones that seem to have a true 3.3v more often than other brands when you get them new. I'd get one of those and it should fix the problem if all else is OK.


----------



## Hueristic

NOOOO, I hit Multi quote! LOLz I needs coffe before I type that much!

Yeah Th1nk3r My TTS is the case mod, I got it all setup (mostly) and decided to go with my old method of transfering the OS rather than doing a partition copy onto the new drive. I wanted to just overwrite the OS onto another drive without loseing the data, So I tried my old method from win9x days. Xcopy32 C:\\ d:\\ /e/c/f/r/y/k/l and that was a no go so I thried the Scopy from my nt/2000 days, and that failed so then I RTFM!







Actually I found the only xcopy (looks like the 32 has been dropped) and checked out the switches and came up with a string of about 10 or 11 switches (very similar to the old 9x one) and the copy and attribute clone's when smoothly but I'm getting a "<Windows root>\\system32\\hal.dll" missing or corrupt error. That's when my sleeping meds kicked in and After I get some coffe and my morning meds kick in I'll get back on it. As soon as I get it dorted I'll post the results so you guys can use it. It is real hany method to be able to move M$ OS without reformatting or partitioning. I haven't reformatted an Os since??? umm never.

Hey Kryton, I think peops you are from UK because of a few comments you made when you first jumped in the thread and the fact you use the Red dwarf character.


----------



## jrs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
#@%#$%@ that multiplier issue with the solder trace has my mind in overdrive.







I have to much to do and think about but all I can think about now is getting a 10X on my 165!









haha don't worry it doesn't work when I set it and the option disappeared









And I checked the cmos battery it at 3.07 volts so it should be fine? I need to resolder that trace and hope things come back. I think when I reflashed I might have corrupted things. The fact that it wan running flaky could have screwed the computer up during the flash. So I may have 2 poblems now, and one is gonna cost me moneyyyyy. grrrr


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jrs* 
haha don't worry it doesn't work when I set it and the option disappeared









And I checked the cmos battery it at 3.07 volts so it should be fine? I need to resolder that trace and hope things come back. I think when I reflashed I might have corrupted things. The fact that it wan running flaky could have screwed the computer up during the flash. So I may have 2 poblems now, and one is gonna cost me moneyyyyy. grrrr









Yes but the fact that that option appeared gives rise to alot of questions. Similar to the unlocking cores type.

OK well finished (finally) moving the os on the TTS and wrote a small faq on it.
HERE it is.

Well almost done with the dishwasher too, just have to put the door and solenoids all back in. BB L8r.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Xcopy32 C:\\ d:\\ /e/c/f/r/y/k/l and that was a no go so I thried the Scopy from my nt/2000 days, and that failed so then I RTFM!

Hueristic, have you tried robocopy? It's basically xcopy on steroids. I think it's together in the Windows 2003 resource kit tools. Have you tried just doing a drive clone? What kind of drives do you have (brand/model)?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jrs* 
And I checked the cmos battery it at 3.07 volts so it should be fine?

Jrs, 3.07 volts is completely fine. I'd start to worry if it got below 3.0 volts. Hopefully you can get that trace fixed.

Good luck


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Hueristic, have you tried robocopy? It's basically xcopy on steroids. I think it's together in the Windows 2003 resource kit tools. Have you tried just doing a drive clone? What kind of drives do you have (brand/model)?

I'll have to try that next time I need to copy an os over another drive. I used a small 2g drive to put the os on when building the system and decided to keep it rather than port the os from the old htpc. The drive I ported the OS to is a sataII300 samsung that was my data drive on my main rig. It only had 20g free so This is the method I used.
I was unaware of that robo copy, Just shows how dated my knowledge is!








So while I was doing it I figured might as well write up the steps in case anyone else needs to do that. Well I gave it a shot. Next time before I waste my time I'll post and see if there's a util that already does what I usually do manually.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
In regards to temperatures, 55C full load is fine. 60C is ok but I'd try not to go any higher than that. At the most maybe 62C - 63C. My previous Opteron 170 would lock up around 64C during Orthos testing. For Vcore I wouldn't go any higher than 1.5 volts (on air). Water cooling or some other exotic cooling method may allow you to go higher.

Good luck









th|nk3r, is that IHS or coretemp? Using coretemp I've found that ~65*C (dependent on voltage) is a good temp limit.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hi Guys. I am having yet another problem and was wondering if any one knows if a router can get a virus or if it can be flashed w/malicious code w/out me knowing it?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hi Guys. I am having yet another problem and was wondering if any one knows if a router can get a virus or if it can be flashed w/malicious code w/out me knowing it?


 Well I'm sure it has some sort of firmware. Could someone flash it without your knowledge, I suppose it's possible. Why do you think that your router is borked? Also, when some hardware starts to fail it does some pretty strange stuff.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well I'm sure it has some sort of firmware. Could someone flash it without your knowledge, I suppose it's possible. Why do you think that your router is borked? Also, when some hardware starts to fail it does some pretty strange stuff.


Well I was hit w/a virus last week and my router keeps dropping connections. I have to to a power cycle every time to get it to work again but now it's not working and lynksis told me that I need to update the firmware. They even wanted me to allow them remote acces to my pc for a fee of $9.99 or something close to that. I told them you want to have full controll over my pc and charge me for it. LOL I told him no way man, if all I need to do is a firmware upgrade then I can do that myself and call you back if it still does not work.

That is why I asked.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Hey Kryton, I think peops you are from UK because of a few comments you made when you first jumped in the thread and the fact you use the Red dwarf character.










Hmmm... Didn't mean to mess with anyone's mind here.

OK, can you guess where I live? 
It may not be where you think though....


----------



## N2Gaming

Kryton, I suspect a warm tropical Island like in the florida keys or something of the sort.


----------



## BlackOmega

O yeah, I don't like any sort of remote assistance. I have all of that remote crap turned off.

And if all you need to do is re-flash, then hell do it yourself. No need for some schmuck to do it for you and charge you for it. I think buying their product is enough.

But my router is from AT&T so if I ever have issues with it they have to fix it for free. Well not really free as I pay them monthly but no extra charges. And if they were to ever say some crap like they were going to charge me. I'd say hey you might as well cancel my DSL and the phone line, I'll go with another company that actually values my business.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Kryton, I suspect a warm tropical Island like in the florida keys or something of the sort.


I only wish that were true.

Try going north but not too far...


----------



## N2Gaming

Yeah I had to make sure it was not my comcast modem. I reset it a couple of times and reset my router a couple of times and now only the comcast modem works so I'm gonna flash this think one more time. I have ver. 1.52.5 on it now and the latest ver is 1.52.6 so prolly not much has changed but it's worth a shot and if it don't fix the problem then I should get a new one from them as the last guy I talked to told me that I have 1 year left on the warranty.







Hopefully they don't ask for a receipt. Heck I lost it







is what I will have to tell them...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Ooh, a "Guess Where Kryton Lives" contest!

Let's see... I say he is in... South Carolina!

What do I win?









Speaking of contests, it's been forever since this Club has had one. I actually was thinking of holding one soon, kind of like what we did last summer.

Before I tell y'all what I've got in mind, anybody got any neat-o contest ideas?


----------



## Blitz6804

Kryton: Mid-west US?

N2Gaming: Without you knowing? I do not think that is likely. Upgrading a router's firmware is a simple affair, but it is not seamless. Even if a virus could access your router, it is unlikely to know the access password. Try a hard router reboot, and if that does not fix the problem, try the flash.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Ooh, a "Guess Where Kryton Lives" contest!

Let's see... I say he is in... South Carolina!

What do I win?










And you win.... NOTHING! (_Because that's incorrect_....)









Blitz missed it too...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


And you win.... NOTHING! (_Because that's incorrect_....)




















Ah, well, I put my shot in.









Next?

N2G: How old is the router? Could it be a simple matter of it be failing?


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


I only wish that were true.

Try going north but not too far...










Darn; I hate when I post on an unrefreshed page, I missed this. Can I change my guess to South Carolina?


----------



## BlackOmega

Id say some of the south coastal states, like FL or LA.


----------



## N2Gaming

I still say you live on a tropical island of some sort Kryton.

My router is working again. the clone the mac id was turned off for some reason and now it's working. I don't think I needed a flash but I now has the latest version firmware. Hopefully now it does not crash. I will change my ssid and key just incase some one locally changed my settings. I'm telling you this wireless stuff is not very secure. Any way thanks for the suggestions guys. I sux at configurning routers and if it was not for lynksis then I would have to use one of my pc's as a virtual router. I'd prolly just take a computer w/2xGiga ports and link them together and run one of them to the modem and the other to a Hub. If ther is a will there is a way.


----------



## Blitz6804

N2Gaming: If you go wireless, you really should be using WPA, or at the very least, WEP. Understand even with that, the persistent hacker can get info from you.


----------



## N2Gaming

Yeah I'm using WEP


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
I figured might as well write up the steps in case anyone else needs to do that.

Hueristic, I have that FAQ you wrote in another tab in Firefox. I plan on reading it today. Thanks for posting it.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
th|nk3r, is that IHS or coretemp? Using coretemp I've found that ~65*C (dependent on voltage) is a good temp limit.

BlackOmega, I was referring to "coretemps". I agree, I think 65C is a good temp limit. My Opteron 170 (now in Joe's hands) literally made it to that limit before locking up.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Speaking of contests, it's been forever since this Club has had one. I actually was thinking of holding one soon, kind of like what we did last summer.

Before I tell y'all what I've got in mind, anybody got any neat-o contest ideas?

Joe, this time I think I'll join in on this contest. Overclock our optical drives?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
My router is working again. the clone the mac id was turned off for some reason and now it's working. I don't think I needed a flash but I now has the latest version firmware.

N2Gaming, I'm glad you got it working. Heat could also be one of the reasons why the router worked sometimes and didn't work at all. If this is anything like the WRT series from Linksys then all of those are passively cooled inside. My WRT54G I know puts out some mad heat during the summer hehe.

EDIT: Yeah WEP is pretty easy to get through. I mean half the key itself is sent over the air









Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
N2Gaming: If you go wireless, you really should be using WPA, or at the very least, WEP. Understand even with that, the persistent hacker can get info from you.

Blitz, I think this was discussed like 6-8 months ago in here. If the right characters are used with the proper length, WPA2 can practically be next to impossible to break.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, would not the most-secure setup have you putting each wireless device's MAC into the router and permitting access solely to those systems? This does nothing to prevent people from seeing what you are doing with your internet, but it does prohibit them from leaching your bandwidth.


----------



## N2Gaming

I canged my ssid, key and password. Now I can't log on to my main router page to make changes cause my password is not working







I tell you one thing after another. I'll prolly have to reset the router and start over from scratch.


----------



## Blitz6804

Just for the record, make sure all changes you do in the router are from a wired PC.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Just for the record, make sure all changes you do in the router are from a wired PC.

Yeah I did them from a wired pc and now I can't log on to the router.


----------



## Blitz6804

*Hands N2Gaming a massive electromagnet.* Care to put it out of its misery?

I swear I am updating the roster right now... please do not lynch me club!


----------



## Blitz6804

Finally, I have updated the off-site roster. *Shoves BlackOmega up to make room.* Okay, the following are the roster changes:

Blitz6804: Now listed as retired officer
ciff1: Added to the roster; welcome aboard!
jacka: Added Venus, updated San Diego
maj1stic: Added to the roster; welcome aboard!
Salku: Added Manchester
timxirish: Added Venus
Zzyzx: Added to the roster; welcome aboard!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


*Hands N2Gaming a massive electromagnet.* Care to put it out of its misery?


 No thanks. I just figured the password out. I was off by 1 digit. In my mind I typed one thing and physically I typed another. So in my mind when I went to log back into it to look into WPA2 I could not get into the router. All is good now. I will do more research on WPA2 and Dedicated Mac's for a stronger security. I swear I'm gonna have to get out a notebook for all the things I have learned w/this router so I can revert back to my notes come say another 6 months from now.


----------



## Blitz6804

It is never a bad idea to keep a book as a running tally for everything you do with computers. My dad, back in the day (Win 3.1), used to keep one so detailed, he even included when he emptied the recycle bin and what files was in it at the time. I used to document hardware changes; I do not bother anymore.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

You fellas will go cuckoo bananas once you see the OCing charts I've got for the sig rig. All sorts of esoteric details.

Yeah, I'm a nut job...


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


You fellas will go cuckoo bananas once you see the OCing charts I've got for the sig rig. All sorts of esoteric details.

Yeah, I'm a nut job...














































<---Joe.


----------



## Blitz6804

And you are just discovering this now? I have known this since February 25, 2008. J/K. Or am I?


----------



## simfreak47

hey guys this isn't 939 related, and i posted a thread about it, but does anyone know how i can mod my NF7-M's bios?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


You fellas will go cuckoo bananas once you see the OCing charts I've got for the sig rig.


Do share...


----------



## Blitz6804

I never really played around much with SktA simfreak47; besides, all my SktA rigs were VIA chipsets. I would gather you should be able to find a BIOS hex editor out there though that should be able to change what you wish.


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I never really played around much with SktA simfreak47; besides, all my SktA rigs were VIA chipsets. I would gather you should be able to find a BIOS hex editor out there though that should be able to change what you wish.


Will search, thanks!

Ps. I caught your edit


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *simfreak47*


Will search, thanks!

Ps. I caught your edit










 someting like 754 jet airplains.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Id say some of the south coastal states, like FL or LA.


He's on the right track guys.


----------



## Blitz6804

Split the difference? Alabama and/or Mississippi?


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Split the difference? Alabama and/or Mississippi?


OK - It's Bama.


----------



## Blitz6804

I will take teamwork and knowing US geography for the win! *Hi-fives N2Gaming.*


----------



## Hueristic

Kryton lives on Mars








Just like me!

N2, Call me tomorrow and I can walk you through a firmware update to DD-WRT (best imo) and we can lock it down soo hard you'll need a prybar if you forget the password.









Simfreak, PM Kryton on the socket A and he can point you in the right direction.

Still haven't got the dishwasher back together, doing too much last couple days and I've been laid out all day.









Thinkr decided to try the 2004 resource robocopy, dnloaded it and after I get the HTPC all setup I'll use it to clone a backup on another drive.

HEY joe how bout we OC 8085's? I can win that one!


----------



## Blitz6804

Haha, I thought you lived in the bottle Hueristic.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Haha, I thought you lived in the bottle Hueristic.


A Genie Bottle on mars


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
OK - It's Bama.
















I knew that too but I just forgot. I read it in one of your post's or maybe it was in a pm, I can't rember which. For some reason I kept wanting to say guam. huh that's not US. Any way my brain is wired like that.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I will take teamwork and knowing US geography for the win! *Hi-fives N2Gaming.*

kudo's to the Hi-fives.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Kryton lives on Mars








Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
lol

ust like me!

N2, Call me tomorrow and I can walk you through a firmware update to DD-WRT (best imo) and we can lock it down soo hard you'll need a prybar if you forget the password.








Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
scares me it does indeedie







My memory can't handle it... eek









Simfreak, PM Kryton on the socket A and he can point you in the right direction.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
agreed...

Still haven't got the dishwasher back together, doing too much last couple days and I've been laid out all day.








Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
ha ha ha LOLROFLMAO







now your kitchen prolly looks like my pc room.









HEY joe how bout we OC 8085's? I can win that one!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Don't has any.











I finally feel a little better as my clean install is finally paying off. I could not boot up and get wifi working from a cold boot up. I had to jump thru hoops to get it working and now it's like bamb web page open, bamb music playing. AC/DC atm.







I love my wireless keyboard w/my favorite buttons to open up stuff much quicker. Now I just have to start the tedious task of loading all my apps again









Edit: bamb music playing link is not working. player.streamtheworld.com/_players/entercom/player/?id=KRXQ


----------



## Blitz6804

For the record, Guam IS the United States; just not a state. The insane overclocker you were thinking in the Pacific was likely the Philippines' JEmmaB.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Do share...

To meet N2G's challenge, I've attached two of the charts I'm using on my Darth Raivo OC.









(These are OpenOffice files, FYI.)


----------



## N2Gaming

hey tmj, will those files work w/windows based office suite?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

N2G, to be honest I don't know. I don't run MS Office here, so I've never tried.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


hey tmj, will those files work w/windows based office suite?


N2Gaming, searching through Google.com I came up with this: http://answers.yahoo.com/question/in...2131836AAZ90cM.

Hope that helps


----------



## Blitz6804

I personally got the OpenOffice plugin suite for Microsoft office. I can open all OpenOffice documents in Office 12 sans incident. Without such plugin, you are a no-go. If you need, I can convert for you.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I personally got the OpenOffice plugin suite for Microsoft office. I can open all OpenOffice documents in Office 12 sans incident. Without such plugin, you are a no-go. If you need, I can convert for you.


I was just going to suggest that perhaps someone who has the capability to convert from OpenOffice file formats to MS Office to do the conversion and upload to this thread.









Big ups to you!









Apologies, as well, for not using the ubiquitous MS Office suite.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I was just going to suggest that perhaps someone who has the capability to convert from OpenOffice file formats to MS Office to do the conversion and upload to this thread.









Big ups to you!









Apologies, as well, for not using the ubiquitous MS Office suite.










You do know that open office can save in MS Office file formats







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


You do know that open office can save in MS Office file formats







.












You know what, you're RIGHT!









Uh, should I bother to send another .zip of the charts?









(NVM; please see attachment.)


----------



## Blitz6804

As requested...

I attached a PDF format as well just in case.

EDIT: Crum... I really should refresh just prior to posting. (-_-)


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*











You know what, you're RIGHT!









Uh, should I bother to send another .zip of the charts?









(NVM; please see attachment.)


Glad I could help







. Now its time for me to go back into hiding for a while







. You guys will see me again soon enough







. That's not a promise, that's a threat


----------



## BlackOmega

PIO!!! Where the hell you been man?! Hows that new GF of yours working out?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


PIO!!! Where the hell you been man?! Hows that new GF of yours working out?


Been pretty much in the middle of no-where, with no internet access at all. I'm only online right now because I'm at my parent's house.

The GF is doin great







. As is the new baby. He's keeping us both really busy though, lol.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Been pretty much in the middle of no-where, with no internet access at all. I'm only online right now because I'm at my parent's house.

The GF is doin great







. As is the new baby. He's keeping us both really busy though, lol.



Believe me I know the feeling. Our little one is 3 months old today and he _just_ started sleeping through the night. Needless to say my sleep schedule is still messed up and my school is suffering immensely. O well I guess getting a c+/B- in anatomy and physiology with little to no studying isn;t too bad







.

Stay outta trouble bro.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Believe me I know the feeling. Our little one is 3 months old today and he _just_ started sleeping through the night. Needless to say my sleep schedule is still messed up and my school is suffering immensely. O well I guess getting a c+/B- in anatomy and physiology with little to no studying isn;t too bad







.

Stay outta trouble bro.










Of course








. Yeah, he's still waking up every 2-3 hours. But he's now up to 10 pounds (from 4 pounds 11 ounces)...and drinking 6-8 oz of formula now. He's catching up real quick







. I just REALLY wish he'd sleep more, lol.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


As requested...

I attached a PDF format as well just in case.

EDIT: Crum... I really should refresh just prior to posting. (-_-)


Thanks blitz. I was just going to comment on my reluctance to open up the .doc or .xls files for fear of virus and maliciouse codes. No offense to you joe but I have not installed a virus scanner yet and don't want to end up where I was last week cussing at my pc and banging my head against the wall "figuratively speaking" So the .PDF was just the thing I needed.

Now joe I am astonished by your thorough time put into the overclocking methods. Heck I just go for it and shoot for the moon. blitz calculator helps me out at times when I'm really in the mood to get seriouse. You know what's funny is my ASUS M2N32 mobo has 4x1Gig of DDR800 ram and I run them at DDR800 w/very little overclock and they get better band width then my Foxconn Destroyer board running 2x2GB DDR1066 ram at DDR800 overclocked to DDR923. I'm gonna have to look into the ganged and unganged and maybe swop out the DDR1066 for some DDR800 and see if it's just the ram that is slowing things down. If the ram is the culprit then I'll be a monkeys but.









Once again Good Job on your recordings.

Hmm come to think about it some one was considering taking a break from Overclocking if I remember correctly. So glad that person has stuck w/it.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Of course







. Yeah, he's still waking up every 2-3 hours. But he's now up to 10 pounds (from 4 pounds 11 ounces)...and drinking 6-8 oz of formula now. He's catching up real quick







. I just REALLY wish he'd sleep more, lol.


 How old is he now? And yeah they seem to make up for lost time. Our little one was technically 3 weeks early, I believe he was 5lbs. 11oz. and didn't have an ounce of fat on him when he was born. Now, he's a straight up little chunker, he's got rolls in places I didn't know you could get rolls.









And man he's been drinking 6oz of breastmilk since he was born. I finally figured out that he was gorging himself and that was causing his stomach aches.







So not only did he not sleep, he cried most of the time too







. 
Good thing we're getting past that stage.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

pio! Great to hear from you!







You've been missed.









Good to hear all is well, sleep deprivation and all that considered.









N2G: No offense taken.







I totally get where you're coming from.

Hehe, it IS quite time-consuming doing things the way I do, but I find that I learn a heck of a lot more doing things methodically, especially when it comes to hardware I've never played with before.

Ironically, I found out that using a "shortcut" enabled me to progress far more rapidly than doing things all on manual. I was telling thlnk3r in a recent conversation that I was so surprised that the "Auto" settings worked so well on the SLI-DR; on the CFX3200, using "Auto" on anything, even at stock, frequently led to disaster.







When I was working on things all on manual, I could only squeeze out 15MHz from those Crucials. I was convinced that maybe one of the DIMMs, or perhaps both of them, may be duds.

Good thing the "Auto" modes worked so well.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


How old is he now? And yeah they seem to make up for lost time. Our little one was technically 3 weeks early, I believe he was 5lbs. 11oz. and didn't have an ounce of fat on him when he was born. Now, he's a straight up little chunker, he's got rolls in places I didn't know you could get rolls.









And man he's been drinking 6oz of breastmilk since he was born. I finally figured out that he was gorging himself and that was causing his stomach aches.







So not only did he not sleep, he cried most of the time too







. 
Good thing we're getting past that stage.


He's roughly 1 and a half months old. 6-6-09 was his birthday. And yeah, ours is getting to the point where he cries just to be held







. We're trying to break him of that one....because we just can't hold him all night, lol.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


He's roughly 1 and a half months old. 6-6-09 was his birthday. And yeah, ours is getting to the point where he cries just to be held







. We're trying to break him of that one....because we just can't hold him all night, lol.


 Hate to tell ya buddy, you gotta hold em. And they say, for the first year you can't hold them too much. 
Also, keep in mind that physical stimulation like being touched and held and talked to will make the baby grow faster and healthier. Studies have been shown that babies that get little physical stimulation do very poorly as in they stay underweight and get sick more easily because of lack of appetite.

You know an easy way of getting around that is get one of those baby carrier things. then you just strap em to ya and go about your business. Free's up your hands to do other things.

And just so you know the first 3 months are the hardest, it just gets easier from there.... well until they start walking then talking.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hate to tell ya buddy, you gotta hold em. And they say, for the first year you can't hold them too much. 
Also, keep in mind that physical stimulation like being touched and held and talked to will make the baby grow faster and healthier. Studies have been shown that babies that get little physical stimulation do very poorly as in they stay underweight and get sick more easily because of lack of appetite.

You know an easy way of getting around that is get one of those baby carrier things. then you just strap em to ya and go about your business. Free's up your hands to do other things.

And just so you know the first 3 months are the hardest, it just gets easier from there.... well until they start walking then talking.


Oh, don't get me wrong...we DO hold him. Its just at night, when we're trying to sleep. We don't want him spoiled either (which holding him too much will do).


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


pio! Great to hear from you!







You've been missed.









Good to hear all is well, sleep deprivation and all that considered.









N2G: No offense taken.







I totally get where you're coming from.

Hehe, it IS quite time-consuming doing things the way I do, but I find that I learn a heck of a lot more doing things methodically, especially when it comes to hardware I've never played with before.

Ironically, I found out that using a "shortcut" enabled me to progress far more rapidly than doing things all on manual. I was telling thlnk3r in a recent conversation that I was so surprised that the "Auto" settings worked so well on the SLI-DR; on the CFX3200, using "Auto" on anything, even at stock, frequently led to disaster.







When I was working on things all on manual, I could only squeeze out 15MHz from those Crucials. I was convinced that maybe one of the DIMMs, or perhaps both of them, may be duds.

Good thing the "Auto" modes worked so well.










I'm glad your sharing w/us your trials and tribulations. I'm learning a lot just form you and your tests. I may have to adopt a system like this. The only thing I fear is the tediouse work involved w/my lack of patience w/the work of changing one thing in the bios at a time. I'm to impatient. If only there was a Windows based overclocking tool that would give full bios options w/in the windows environment. That would make it so much easier if one of the settings were no good. Because I could just do a quick reboot to get me right back to where I left off knowing the last change I made was no good and I would not have to CLR CMOS and start over from scratch plus wait for the bios to save and reboot again over and over again. BTW is there a benchmarking app that will show you what all of the ram timings are running at if you have them set to auto. It would be nice to be able to see where they start off at on auto mode so that I would know where my next move could/would be up or down.










EDIT: It's been a while since I played w/my Crucials. I think I ran my DDR500 at 3.4.3.8 1T 2.8V and I can't remember the rest and that is where a chart to track my progress like the one you created would be perfect for any one like me w/a pooooooor memory.

EDIT #2: Hey Pio, glad is all well w/u atm. I don't have any baby experience so I just stayed out of that conversation.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Oh, don't get me wrong...we DO hold him. Its just at night, when we're trying to sleep. We don't want him spoiled either (which holding him too much will do).


 Nah that's a myth. Up until they're 1 you CAN NOT hold them too much. This will not spoil them. Trust me my wife had the same concern with our first son, and the doctors assured her that its in his best interest to be held a lot and that it has no negative side effects.

Remember he's only a month and a half, so he's still adjusting to being out of the womb where he was for a long time, relatively speaking.

But yeah its a good idea not to have them in the same bed as you when you're sleeping. A lot of babies get killed this way. The parent rolls over on to the baby and suffocates them. My wife and I NEVER had the babies in the same bed that we sleep in. The baby sleeps in a co-sleeper which is right next to our bed. With our first boy, he started sleeping in his own room at 3 months.


----------



## Blitz6804

N2Gaming: most benchmark programs do not yet support unganged memory. This is why almost all benchmarks are lower with unganged even though it is better in theory.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I'm glad your sharing w/us your trials and tribulations. I'm learning a lot just form you and your tests. I may have to adopt a system like this. The only thing I fear is the tediouse work involved w/my lack of patience w/the work of changing one thing in the bios at a time. I'm to impatient. If only there was a Windows based overclocking tool that would give full bios options w/in the windows environment. That would make it so much easier if one of the settings were no good. Because I could just do a quick reboot to get me right back to where I left off knowing the last change I made was no good and I would not have to CLR CMOS and start over from scratch plus wait for the bios to save and reboot again over and over again. BTW is there a benchmarking app that will show you what all of the ram timings are running at if you have them set to auto. It would be nice to be able to see where they start off at on auto mode so that I would know where my next move could/would be up or down.









EDIT: It's been a while since I played w/my Crucials. I think I ran my DDR500 at 3.4.3.8 1T 2.8V and I can't remember the rest and that is where a chart to track my progress like the one you created would be perfect for any one like me w/a pooooooor memory.










That's why I use these charts. My memory is, well, um, prone to frequent corruption.
















Believe it or not, not once during this entire process have I had the system become so unstable that a CMOS clear is necessary. I think that's another advantage to this system and method. If something doesn't work, you know PRECISELY which setting pushed you over the point of no return.

Now, as far as learning what the values are for the settings on "Auto," I use two programs (they perform identically): A64 Tweaker and MemSet.

A64 Tweaker is an old standby for K8s; I don't know, however, if it works on anything later than S939. MemSet, on the other hand, is almost universally-compatible.









I'll be honest with you: It is tedious, it is frequently frustrating, but I don't know how to OC any other way.







I'm just built that way, I guess.

And to think I haven't even showed you my benchmark screenshots yet.







Quite eye-opening, for sure.

I'll save those for my first big community project as AMD Editor, though.







It's coming soon.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


N2Gaming: most benchmark programs do not yet support unganged memory. This is why almost all benchmarks are lower with unganged even though it is better in theory.


Oh yeah I remeber something about that w/u and some else in a debate about what was better and how most benchies don't work well w/unganged. I'm gonna gange them and see if it makes any difference. do you know of any other settings that may help. I know it's not 939 but then again I'm not gonna cry and keep you awake after you answer the question if you so choose to do so.







Boy did I just contradicted my self there or what.









Edit: thanks for the links joe. I'm gonna add them to the m2n op for easy retrival.







That's if you don't mind of course...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Oh yeah I remeber something about that w/u and some else in a debate about what was better and how most benchies don't work well w/unganged. I'm gonna gange them and see if it makes any difference. do you know of any other settings that may help. I know it's not 939 but then again I'm not gonna cry and keep you awake after you answer the question if you so choose to do so.







Boy did I just contradicted my self there or what.









Edit: thanks for the links joe. I'm gonna add them to the m2n op for easy retrival.







That's if you don't mind of course...


N2G, why would I mind?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


N2G, why would I mind?










I did not think you would but it's always nice to know it's ok. I just added them at the bottom of the op for now as Work in progress that way I can go back to it later when I remember and I'm like now where was that post again. Oh yeah at the bottom in my Work in progress.







I just tried ganged and system would not boot into windows so I had to down clock my fsb from 230 to 220 and move my multi as well and make all my ram timings back to auto until I can run CPUZ and see where they are at on auto.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hey, it's all about using the tools we've got at our disposal, yes?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Hey, it's all about using the tools we've got at our disposal, yes?










Foshobro.









EDIT: well I am running ganged now w/5.5.5.18 2t and my memory write has improved by some 300 points. Not a whole lot but it's better then it was. Now all I have to do is button it up and make it run a little faster then try some orthose or P95 or well you all get the picture... I promise I will get back to my DFI 939 OC'n when I get this all dialed in...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


The GF is doin great







. As is the new baby. He's keeping us both really busy though, lol.


Pioneerisloud, it's good to see you and your family are doing well









Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


You know an easy way of getting around that is get one of those baby carrier things. then you just strap em to ya and go about your business. Free's up your hands to do other things.


BlackOmega, funny you mention that. The Wife and I were discussing that the other day hahaha.

Joe, those charts are awesome. I'm glad you're keeping track of all of that information. Documentation is very powerful


----------



## N2Gaming

Hi guys. Last night while overclocking my Destroyer system i managed to do some OS damage and was wondering if it is or could be an easy fix or what. My Belkin USB Wireless G is not working because some DLL is missing now. I tried to unistall and reinstall the driver but every time I reboot the system still claims to need to install software for new hardware found. So when I open up the Belkin application to look at the properties it tells me that a Can't do it because some DLL is missing.







Does any one know a fix to this. I was thinking of installing the Chipset driver again but I don't want to do any thing until I hear from some more experienced people about this.

Thank you,

N2G


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

my asus a8 died........ my 3800+ x2 is just doing NOTHING and i can't find a good mb....


----------



## N2Gaming

Have you looked on ebay. try to look for DFI NF4 and you will get listings for Ultra D's, SLI's, SLI DR's, Occasionally Experts and very very far and few inbetween Venus's. That is just the DFI mobo's there is a ton of other mobo's out there for socket 939.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hi guys. Last night while overclocking my Destroyer system i managed to do some OS damage and was wondering if it is or could be an easy fix or what. My Belkin USB Wireless G is not working because some DLL is missing now. I tried to unistall and reinstall the driver but every time I reboot the system still claims to need to install software for new hardware found. So when I open up the Belkin application to look at the properties it tells me that a Can't do it because some DLL is missing.







Does any one know a fix to this. I was thinking of installing the Chipset driver again but I don't want to do any thing until I hear from some more experienced people about this.


N2Gaming, after uninstalling the drivers are you disconnecting the Belkin USB Wireless device? Typically on some usb/pcmcia wireless devices the drivers have to be installed first BEFORE connecting the device. Make sure the device is disconnected before installing the drivers.

Let us know

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary*


my asus a8 died........ my 3800+ x2 is just doing NOTHING and i can't find a good mb....


BigpoppaFrary, have you had a look at the For Sale section? You may find some S939 motherboards for sale. Matter of fact here is one thread: http://www.overclock.net/sale/537443...herboards.html.

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, funny you mention that. The Wife and I were discussing that the other day hahaha.


 They actually work very well. I used to put my older in one and go for walks with em. He loved the outdoors and would usually fall asleep in it







. THe only thing you gotta watch for is when they're very little and don't have much head control, you have to make sure that it doesn't flop in all sort of crazy directions its not supposed to.

Good luck bud


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, after uninstalling the drivers are you disconnecting the Belkin USB Wireless device? Typically on some usb/pcmcia wireless devices the drivers have to be installed first BEFORE connecting the device. Make sure the device is disconnected before installing the drivers.

Let us know


Thanks thlk3r, I could not get xp to unistall the Belkin software. I kept getting the install error would you like to report to microsoft error window. Of course not dumb OS I don't have any connection. So I had to do it the hard way. Thaks to hueristic's lessons I was able to remove all the needed files in the Registry through regedit. There was 3 files I could not unistall and I could not figure out why but after doing all that I rebooted and did as you suggested and it's up and working again FTW. I has to may pc problems... The more I do & learn the more I realize that there is just so much more to learn and yet I am but just one individual trying to make a place for my self in the industry. some day and some how maybe I can go back to school and get re-edjamacated.







Speeking of which does any one have any specific filed related training suggestions. IT, Admin etc etc.

Thanks,

N2G


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Speaking of which does any one have any specific filed related training suggestions. IT, Admin etc etc.

N2Gaming, I have a few tutorials from TestOut: http://www.testout.com/. The site looks cheesy but they are very helpful tutorials. I found out about these from one of our systems engineers at work. They are truly great...very interactive. I do quite a few things in active directly and group policy management so it's very useful info









Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, I have a few tutorials from TestOut: http://www.testout.com/. The site looks cheesy but they are very helpful tutorials. I found out about these from one of our systems engineers at work. They are truly great...very interactive. I do quite a few things in active directly and group policy management so it's very useful info









Good luck


Thank you thinker. I will have to consider them when considering my schooling. I am trying to figure out what area of computers would best fit my abilities and memory. Of course if one has those video's they could always keep them handy in the event they can't remember how to do something and the video's can remind them. I'm think I may go back to a legit local Jr. colledge to get a head start.


----------



## thlnk3r

N2Gaming, start off with Desktop Support and move your way up. I can tell you right now that what school you go to means diddly squat. I work at a medium to large business with about 8,000 people and let me tell you, when we are reviewing resumes for additional IT people we throw away the school history part...it's all about experience and how many years of hands on work you have. If it makes you feel any better I never went to school (college). At the time I preferred working.









Good luck bud


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks, I hear about a lot of IT guys not having any schooling but was able to talk there way into a job by being able to sell them self on how much they learned on their own. I think I do need a good foundation to start from feel as if I should do like you suggest and work my way up. I use to work at a company that made it's bread and butter on their rack mounts and Telephony servers but they also sold desktops once in a while. Any way I got a little experience from that job but did not like the company and it was a little company w/big ambitions and improper leadership. The owner mostly. Not dissin any culture here but this guy was chinese and it made it hard for me to see eye to eye w/him at times especially when I knew other said employee's would lie about stuff and it comes back around to me. Any way I don't know if I would be able to use them as a reference and it was back in 2000 w/just a little experience that I had. I was a 9-5'r then. Now after Hauling 10 cars long haul and not being home for days at a time sleeping in 73" sleeper I understand how I should have put in more hours and effort to learn more while I was there. In any case I'm older now and wiser to a degree. So I would be more willing to work longer hours off the clock before and after my work schedule as long as the money was good.







Help Desk? what is help desk. Is this like customer service taking incoming calls or something like that?


----------



## thlnk3r

N2Gaming, helpdesk can be any number of things. Our helpdesk typically logs incidents, reports outtages, assists with basic IT questions/issues over the telephone ect. Every company is different. If there is a severity 1 then the helpdesk immediately escalates it to the appropriate IT individual/party. I started off with desktop support. Desktop Engineering is another fun thing. It's a ever changing environment









Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Thlnk3r: I started testing my computer for a new overclock and your advice came in handy yet again. I kept trying to raise my HTT, and no matter what I did, it would not POST over 240 MHz. I was like "what the heck!?" I lowered the divider on my RAM so instead of being slightly sub-stock, it was very sub-stock, and it POSTed. Strange. So I figured, let me try turning off the spread spectrum like Thlnk3r recommends (and I always leave on) and would you know it? I was able to POST with a 250 MHz HTT and the higher divider. +IMGREP


----------



## N2Gaming

blitz, is this on your Dragon Rig? I finally got a good OC 3600MHz OC running @ DDR800 spds OC to 
DDR1030. I need to lower my fsb a bit to find stability. So far I have bumped my cpu CVolt to 1.45 and I don't want to go any more. My cpu hits 50 and cores at 58 w/mobo and chipset both at 50. I'm up to memory bandwidth of 9600MB woohoo. If Only I was H2O I could prolly get it stable w/these spd's


----------



## BlackOmega

Hey fellas, I have another thread going here about which x3 to buy. If you guys would swing over there I'd appreciate your opinions.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
So I figured, let me try turning off the spread spectrum like Thlnk3r recommends (and I always leave on) and would you know it? I was able to POST with a 250 MHz HTT and the higher divider. +IMGREP

Blitz, right on man









I'm actually very surprised these new AM2+/AM3 boards have that option listed. I suppose it's a feature that will be around for a while.

Thanks for the IMGREP


----------



## N2Gaming

I just found this free steam game and the trailer looks decent. If you want to play a Battle field scenario type game. Get this it's sponsored by the US ARMY and it's approprietly named America's Army 3 so take a look. It is free for any one who is willing to use it in their Steam account. Steam is free as well. FYI.









http://store.steampowered.com/app/13140/


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I just found this free steam game and the trailer looks decent. If you want to play a Battle field scenario type game. Get this it's sponsored by the US ARMY and it's approprietly named America's Army 3 so take a look. It is free for any one who is willing to use it in their Steam account. Steam is free as well. FYI.









http://store.steampowered.com/app/13140/


 Cool thanks man, I'll have to check it out







I played the first one when it came out years ago. It was OK, this game is more of a sim than a fun style shooter like CSS.


----------



## N2Gaming

your welcome BO. the game must be a pretty big file size because I have been DL it for at least 10-15 min and it's only at 27% done.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


your welcome BO. the game must be a pretty big file size because I have been DL it for at least 10-15 min and it's only at 27% done.


 5GB if i read it correctly. It says it would take 1hr 10min to download.


----------



## N2Gaming

that sounds about right. I am only at 67 % done downloading atm. Other good news I think I may have my system stable at 3544MHz. another 20 minutes I'll be 6 Hours P95 stable on my Destroyer. Then I can get back to playing w/my 939 OC's


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hey fellas, here are a couple of screenshots of where things are just before I start testing for total OC stability (CPU + RAM).


















The RAM can actually do around ~260MHz (~DDR520) at these timings, but the RAM divider + CPU multiplier combinations will stress the motherboard more, in my opinion. Given the choice, I would always choose to use the highest CPU multiplier (i.e., default) available to reach a nominal CPU speed.

Here's a shot of the RAM settings via both A64 Tweaker and MemSet:


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Hey fellas, here are a couple of screenshots of where things are just before I start testing for total OC stability (CPU + RAM).



















RACE yah! I started yesterday. I finally got the corsairs the anon donor sent me in my Tyan Tiger and started tweaking the mem as the htt is temp limited. I was able to run 280 all winter but 250 is pushing it with 80f ambients.

Needed a .1v bump for 500, can't get the CAS down to 2.5







spent a few hours last night. I may get back on that when I get the ambition to pull the Modded btx 775 off the asrock sataII and put it on the Tyan.

Here's where I'm at right now.


----------



## Blitz6804

I love the bandwidth Joe; it never ceases to amaze me how much bandwidth these chips can rip out of DDR RAM. Your system, at present, out-bandwidths a bone stock x4 940 with DDR2-1066, just for your information.

Hueristic: I am sorry about your temps, it always sucks when you need to downclock or heat. I personally cannot be bothered to do it, and just run my system at its highest summer setting all year round. On that note, I discovered yesterday that my S&M temperatures are about four degrees warmer than when I last ran it it during heating season. This is interesting since my ambient is about three degrees warmer than it was.


----------



## Hueristic

Yeah, the heat killed me. But that's not the only issue. these sticks are rated at 2.5(2 for Intel)2,2,[email protected] but I'm unable to achieve that even at stock. Another weird thing is my bois thinks they're ecc. I may have to call corsair and/or check tyan for a bios upgrade. I hate to change the bois as the system runs rock stable when the temps are under control. 
On the back burner for now. Too much else to get done.


----------



## thlnk3r

Joe, great job on finding the limits of that memory. The numbers look great! Since Hue is busting out some memory overclocking maybe I should throw in my set of Corsair's and see what they can do as well. I believe these are DDR500 (unknown IC's).

Good luck


----------



## decimator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, great job on finding the limits of that memory. The numbers look great! Since Hue is busting out some memory overclocking maybe I should throw in my set of Corsair's and see what they can do as well. I believe these are DDR500 (unknown IC's).

You can use these listings to help you find what the IC's are on your RAM. I've used this list countless times in the past. It has really come in handy







.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 
You can use these listings to help you find what the IC's are on your RAM. I've used this list countless times in the past. It has really come in handy







.

Decimate, thanks buddy


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Joe, great job on finding the limits of that memory. The numbers look great! Since Hue is busting out some memory overclocking maybe I should throw in my set of Corsair's and see what they can do as well. I believe these are DDR500 (unknown IC's).

Good luck










Are they TCCD? These are supposed to be so I haven't overdriven them but I'm going to give it a shot. I don't feel like ripping the system apart to find the rev#. I just put the damn thing together









Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


You can use these listings to help you find what the IC's are on your RAM. I've used this list countless times in the past. It has really come in handy







.


Thx man checking it out now.


----------



## N2Gaming

good job on the ram spd tmj,

Hueristic, I'm wondering how much of an improvement your ram scores would gain if you were to overlcock the cpu to say anther 200-300MHz







Your timings are pretty tight also no? good job.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Are they TCCD?


Hueristic, not sure yet...I'll have to wait till I get home to see.

N2Gaming, sorry bud but I keep forgetting to post pictures of my old Voodoo SLI card. I took pictures of it but haven't uploaded them yet. Here's what she looks like: http://www.maximumpc.com/article/fea...ive?page=0%2C2. It's the first video card. I ran a dongle/cable from my Voodoo 3 2000 to the Voodoo 2. The SLI card made a HUGE difference. It was actually quite exciting back in the day. Wing Commander played a lot better


----------



## N2Gaming

yeah I had already forgot about that


----------



## Hueristic

Does trashing your Icon cache count for anything?









Well I spanked the heck out of my poor opty and it bent soo far I thought I broke her. She's back to stock for now on folding duty.

Remind me not to do this on a 80f day agin.







And me without even a heatpiped sink on her!







I should be smacked!

Well I removed win7 on the 3800+ and moved the mem over to there (nice HS) and will work on it a little more later on, I feel like going out for a beer.









N2 The temps are keeping me from unleashing my opty, I can't get stable over 250 today. This will probally make me sway the HS's on the Opty and the 3800+. I just hate to have to redo the entire hs mode I did on the 3800 (775BTX HS remeber). I'ts a real pita.
I was able to post a few times @3-2-3-7cr1 but wasn't even remotely stable. I got into Everest but the screen was soo wacked I couldn't read anything or see the buttons!. LOLZ She was burning up and I kept pushin her. I didn't get the shot though.









I'm a little concerned I may have done some damage but These babies are tough so I have faith. I'll run her at stock tonight and back to 230 tomorrow. 3rd time I've had to lower the OC this Summer. I'll tell you what It's nice having a temp LCD on the front of the case! Seeing as the default in the bios is no temp protection!














And I always forget to Reset it after a cmos clear.


----------



## Kryton

Well guys - It lives!

The AM3 is up and running, using it to post with here. I've just started tweaking it and so far, not too bad but have a long ways to go. 
Still, it was a blast getting a few basic bench runs done just to get an idea of what it's capable of.

I've yet to hit 3600MHz and believe it's a tweaking issue. Don't believe the chip itself is a dog but then again you never know. The chip itself is a X3 720BE CACZC 0904 chip.

If there isn't one (Already), we may need to start an AM3 club guys.


----------



## thlnk3r

Kryton, what are you first impressions on the MSI 790FX-GD70? How do you like the BIOS? Is the chipset cooling on the board decent?

Keep us updated


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Kryton, what are you first impressions on the MSI 790FX-GD70? How do you like the BIOS? Is the chipset cooling on the board decent?

Keep us updated









For starters, PLENTY of options in the BIOS for tweaking. It also has a built-in LED display towards the bottom of the board that displays POST codes and even your CPU temps after getting into Windows.

Nice!









The power buttons at the bottom of the MB are a nice add-on along with the OC dial (Haven't tried that yet) and I've had to use the clear CMOS button more than once already - Figures doesn't it?

Right now I'm using it as a simple aircooled setup and running one of my Opty 939 heatpipe coolers on it since we've all heard bad things about the one included with the PHII's and after looking at it, I can see why. The chipset cooler setup is actually decent as is with some reasonable temps going.
MSI did a good job with it but we know of course it will never be good enough "As Is".

It's going to take some time for me to learn the BIOS in this board with all the settings it has and to figure out what they mean. Coming straight from a 939 to this is like a caveman trying to do rocket science.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Right now I'm using it as a simple aircooled setup and running one of my Opty 939 heatpipe coolers on it since we've all heard bad things about the one included with the PHII's and after looking at it, I can see why.

Kryton, cool thanks for the update. The board seems quite intuitive. What exactly is wrong with the stock Ph II coolers? I haven't heard any negative comments about them at all...perhaps I haven't been looking though









Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I heard that the PhenomII coolers were quite capable, but I have never personally tried it myself. The first thing I notice Kryton is that you could get better memory bandwidth by getting your northbridge faster. If you start to experience instability, decrease your hypertransport multiplier. You want the northbridge as fast as you can possibly get it while maintaining stability for best memory bandwidth and keep the hypertransport around 1800.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Kryton, cool thanks for the update. The board seems quite intuitive. What exactly is wrong with the stock Ph II coolers? I haven't heard any negative comments about them at all...perhaps I haven't been looking though









Good luck

It's all aluminum and the CPU contact surface isn't large enough to cover the entire CPU's surface - Maybe it doesn't have to be but that's what I prefer to insure enough surface contact with the CPU for cooling. The 939 heatpipe cooler is obviously a better cooler for aircooling and went with that. Right now just browsing the web at stock settings, I'm sitting at 28C with 1.25v's.
Reviews at the Egg state the included cooler is a joke for what you'd expect this chip to do while trying to keep it cool.

I'll try upping the NB speed and see what it's capable of.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I've got a bit of a hardware crush on that MSI 790FX-GD70, to be honest.









Hard to beat a black-and-blue color scheme like that for tech sex appeal, IMO.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I've got a bit of a hardware crush on that MSI 790FX-GD70, to be honest.









Hard to beat a black-and-blue color scheme like that for tech sex appeal, IMO.










Totally if only it had an Nvidia chipset and Nvidia chipsets were on top of the game...


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I've got a bit of a hardware crush on that MSI 790FX-GD70, to be honest.









Hard to beat a black-and-blue color scheme like that for tech sex appeal, IMO.










If only it didn't say MSI.... :sigh:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Totally if only it had an Nvidia chipset and Nvidia chipsets were on top of the game...










Eww.... I've always liked matching though. So nVidia should make a 30core CPU.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


If only it didn't say MSI.... :sigh:

Eww.... I've always liked matching though. So nVidia should make a 30core CPU.


 hey it could say Foxconn







At least MSI is still making it in the biz.







I wish I was not such a spur of the moment shopper. I would have a bad A$$ mobo and cpu combo right now if I had done my home work. Instead I have 20 mobos and 10 CPU's of all sorts and most if not all are out of date... Of couse I have hi hopes for my Foxconn but now I'm am getting artifacting like crazy... I'm gonna try to roll my drivers back from 186.18 to 182.xx and see if it don't fix the problems. If not I'm gonna be calling BFG for a Warranty issue. Oh maybe I should try the cards in my ASUS system to make sure I don't have a mobo problem. That is the one good thing about having lots of hardware. The ability to test your stuff w/your other stuffs.


----------



## Tator Tot

You could look into an issue with the PCIe bus? Usually upping that will give artifacts.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
You could look into an issue with the PCIe bus? Usually upping that will give artifacts.

All my mobo's have the ability to lock the PCIe at 100MHz and I never go over 100MHz PCIe buss speeds. I have how ever overlcocked my video cards via evga precission while Folding last month for the Junes fold-a-thon. Pft







why did I ever overclock them. I'm thinking that is what may have done them in, if in fact it is the cards and not the mobo or my os install. sigh...

Edit: goes for a cold rockiemountain drink right about now.

Edit #2: I'm back from getting my cool rockie mountain feel good liquid refreshment. I forgot to mention that I turned all my overclocks back to stock settings to rule out overclocking being the problem. I have a problem w/my mobo as well though. about every 3 out of 4 restarts my mobo hangs and I have to turn it off and back on by the power button. I have had to reset my cmos several times as well. Either last night or the other night I had a CMOS check sum error.







So I may has mobo issues as well.


----------



## Tator Tot

I'd turn off the overclocks then. Probably the issue.

Next time, test with Furmark to make sure an overclock is stable, otherwise it could Fold & send out EUE's, causing in no points being made.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
I'd turn off the overclocks then. Probably the issue.

Next time, test with Furmark to make sure an overclock is stable, otherwise it could Fold & send out EUE's, causing in no points being made.

yeah just edited my last post.


----------



## Tator Tot

I'd look into a BIOS flash into an older, or newer BIOS if you can.


----------



## Blitz6804

As to the hanging instead of POSTing, how is your CMOS battery? Putting out the required 3.0 V?


----------



## N2Gaming

Blitz I have not checked that one yet. The mobo is pretty new so I would not suspect it. I think the check sum error appeared after trying some settings that would not post. Overclocking issues of course.

Tator I was talking w/blitz last night about my multiple bios's and I have the most recent P16 loaded on the main bios chip and the original on the backup/secondary cios chip and I have booted using both and no differnce. I may try uninstalling one of the two video cards To see if it is just one of the sli'd cards. I suspect it is the main card in PCIe 1 but testing will tell. I think I'll do that right now. I'll pull the sli bridge first then I will try to pull card # 1 and swop it out for card # 2. I'll reprt back w/my findings. I think I should try that before I do the driver route.


----------



## Blitz6804

Have you tried a through BIOS clear? That is, remove the power plug, remove the battery, press the power button a few times to be sure all capacitors are drained, then short the CMOS at least a minute, although five is better to be sure, and put it all back together.


----------



## N2Gaming

Not yet I'm doing baby steps first. I just tested the SLI bridge and it's not the sli bridge. So now I'm gonn put card # 2 in card #1's home and see if it don't make a difference. I'll report back shortly. I have been experiencing problems w/my wireless adaptor not working and I had to put one of my usb thumb drives in a different slot in the back of the mobo instead of on top of the chassis. So I don't know if there is a hardware or software issue at this point. Another think I notice is a audio spike when booting up into windows.


----------



## N2Gaming

Well after pulling the video cards out of the slots and swopping them out I discovered my DVI to VGA adaptor was loose when I unplugged it. This was of course after I had already removed GPU #2 and during GPU #1's removal. So I made sure I plugged the vga to DVI or what ever it's called back into the new #1 card and hand tightened the adaptor so it would not come loose again. Then after booting into windows I realized that I had to do a video card unistall from my system hardware screen because the picture was F to the Ooh bared up royally.







It's the rockies talking now. Can you hear any echo's. LOL







Any way. I had to unistall and reinstall the card. So, I reinstalled the same driver and when it told me that I already have these files I said do not replace them to all so that I would be running on the same driver and I could determine if it was in fact either a video card or the way the monitor (well in this case a Samsung TV) was plugged into the card ( very loose ) once I rebooted and adjusted my res. I tried OCN's TF2 server once again and this time when I died guess what. No artifacting. It could have just been the adaptor plug being how it was just hangin in there by a thread so to speak. In any case I will try the other card again to make sure it's not the card. If I get artifacting w/the origianal card then RMA time BABY. I hope they step me up to a GTX series if that is the case. Sigh I'm never lucky like that.









Edit: I forgot to mention. One card was always running hotter then the other and failing whlie folding more often then the other card so I'm thinking it (the problem) = bad card...

Edit #2: OK now I'm really lost because I just tried to install Crysis and I get an error sorry can not install at this time. would you like to report error. Hell no I'd like to play the game stupid computer.


----------



## BlackOmega

N2, in the summer, just put your GPU's at stock, that way you'll get credit for every WU you do. 
And as others have said, ALWAYS check your GPUs for artifacting using furmark as it will get your GPU pretty dang hot. I have used the crysis benchmark as a testing tool as well.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


You can use these listings to help you find what the IC's are on your RAM. I've used this list countless times in the past. It has really come in handy







.


 Nice thanks for that









And it looks to be that my Corsairs are 
Quote:



XMS-PC3200C2 Rev3.1 (2-3-3-6-1T) --chip--> Infineon B-5



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


It's all aluminum and the CPU contact surface isn't large enough to cover the entire CPU's surface - Maybe it doesn't have to be but that's what I prefer to insure enough surface contact with the CPU for cooling. The 939 heatpipe cooler is obviously a better cooler for aircooling and went with that. Right now just browsing the web at stock settings, I'm sitting at 28C with 1.25v's. 
Reviews at the Egg state the included cooler is a joke for what you'd expect this chip to do while trying to keep it cool.

I'll try upping the NB speed and see what it's capable of.


 From what I have read about the 720BE is that there were 2 different coolers sent with it, 1 is like the opty heatpipe style and the other is an all aluminum style kind of like what came with the single core 939 Athlons.









PS: Btw, GJ on your mem Joe


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


N2, in the summer, just put your GPU's at stock, that way you'll get credit for every WU you do. 
And as others have said, ALWAYS check your GPUs for artifacting using furmark as it will get your GPU pretty dang hot. I have used the crysis benchmark as a testing tool as well.


Well I just did a OS update and it loaded 52 updates.







first time on this os. any way Crysis still won't intall. I get a setup.exe error. What ever that means. goes to google it now.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Well I just did a OS update and it loaded 52 updates.







first time on this os. any way Crysis still won't intall. I get a setup.exe error. What ever that means. goes to google it now.


 Is your dvd drive clicking as it reads the disk? Is the disk scratched? Dirty? Cracked?
Those are the first things you should look for. I just had a similar thing happen, was installing a program for school and come to find out the disk was dirty as hell. After a thorough cleaning it loaded up sans issue.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Is your dvd drive clicking as it reads the disk? Is the disk scratched? Dirty? Cracked?
Those are the first things you should look for. I just had a similar thing happen, was installing a program for school and come to find out the disk was dirty as hell. After a thorough cleaning it loaded up sans issue.


Well I just checked the disk and it had a couple of finger prints on it so I cleanded it off to rule out dirty disk.







You no good dirty disk.







It just sounds funny. Any way Nope not the problemo dude... I think I has registry prolemo's Prolly form a OC gone bad. I will try to fix it w/the tools suggested on the ingernet unless some one has a suggestion for a free registry cleaner and fixer. I used CCleaner suggested by Hueristic. But I don't know how to fix bad registries or multiple files/drivers loaded onto the registry. I think that is what is causing the install.exe error per the googling that I did.

Edit: Well right away after doing the updates I noticed the audio spike cleared up from one of the audio updates. Go figure. I'll have to do a registry clean and repair that may defunk the updates. arg. no double arg. Ahhhh maytie. I thinks a song comes to mind for M$ atm. Ugly Kid Joe. Every thing about you. Goes to google the video.


----------



## Blitz6804

N2Gaming: Almost always one card will be warmer than the other. This is due to the fact that the primary card generally does not have as good of airflow as the secondary card. (I say generally, because some motherboards the primary card is on the bottom.) In the case of tri-SLI systems, this is very true, the middle card often running a good 10-20Âº C hotter than the top or bottom card unless special care is taken for ventilation. I am very fortunate in that when my cards are loaded equally, they are about the same within 2Âº C, likely because I have an open expansion slot between them and an intake right on them. If this is your Destroyer we are talking about, you too have gaps between the cards. Ensure that you are running both cards in the red slots. (The top is the primary, the bottom is the secondary.)


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks blitz for all that. Yes the top red slot is the number 1 slot and the bottom red slot is the number 2 slot. Since I am not able to install Crysis. It leads me to belive that I have a waxed OS. Time for yet another OS install.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
...If there isn't one (Already), we may need to start an AM3 club guys.









Pretty sure there is, A lot of us in the 939 have been talking about going X3 BTW, does your bios on the MSI have the core unlock "feature"?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
...even your CPU temps after getting into Windows.
... Coming straight from a 939 to this is like a caveman trying to do rocket science.
























Last time I was really into Pushing my systems was 486DX2!!! Now I'm happy with a 20-25% increase. But I will be maxing out my opty with the new mem (Mosel Vitelic 5ns!#$!#@).

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
If only it didn't say MSI.... :sigh:...











Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
...That is the one good thing about having lots of hardware. The ability to test your stuff w/your other stuffs.









that is the core to any tech's bench. S3 PCI FTW!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
...I have how ever overlcocked my video cards via evga precission while Folding last month for the Junes fold-a-thon. Pft







why did I ever overclock them. I'm thinking that is what may have done them in,...

[email protected] OC is different than a gaming OC. [email protected] OC will not kill a card that is not defective. YOU can OC the Core/Shader/Mem much higher on [email protected] Sometimes I forget to downclock before a game and boom!







I run my [email protected]/1836/1000 while folding on stock cooling. I don't even know my top speed for gaming







I just pop it won to stock!









Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Well after pulling the video cards out of the slots and swopping them out I discovered my DVI to VGA adaptor was loose when I unplugged it. ...
Edit #2: OK now I'm really lost because I just tried to install Crysis and I get an error sorry can not install at this time. would you like to report error. Hell no I'd like to play the game stupid computer.
































Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Well I just did a OS update and it loaded 52 updates.







first time on this os. any way Crysis still won't intall. I get a setup.exe error. What ever that means. goes to google it now.

OMG! 52 updates







I never do any updates. But I don't run software with holes in it (Cept FF: But I don't run alot of the poor plugins).

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
...

And it looks to be that my Corsairs are :TCCD...

I now hate you!







Wanna trade















I'm going to RMA these, I spent a few hours on the Asrock and I still can't get the guaranteed speed of 2.5,2,2,6. As a matter of fact my Asrock detects them as 166 (ddr333) [email protected]#[email protected]! probably bios. at that speed though it will run at 2.5,2,2,6cr1. Lot of good that does me!









Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Thanks blitz for all that. Yes the top red slot is the number 1 slot and the bottom red slot is the number 2 slot. Since I am not able to install Crysis. It leads me to belive that I have a waxed OS. Time for yet another OS install.

Uninstall crysis, then run cc cleaner then go into regedit and search for Crysis string and delete any that have the companies name also that refer to crysis. Then reboot/reinstall. If that doesn't work you can always reinstall os later. Do you have reg backup to a functional time?

Here's some screenies I was just useing while trying to get the mem to rated stock speeds on the asrock. SAD, I know.
the share is down, just checked and so is the system. Put some active cooling on the NB and I'm back on trying to get the thing to rated. BBL

EDIT: Well with my active cooling (I put the damn thing right up to the AC unit







) I've got 2.5,2,3,[email protected] There is no way I'm going to get the advertised 2.5,2,2,6 so these are RMAable.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Pretty sure there is, A lot of us in the 939 have been talking about going X3 BTW, does your bios on the MSI have the core unlock "feature"?


G-Byte manages a club for AMD AM2 - AM3 CPU's it's more of a gerneral club not just specific to AM3's

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


that is the core to any tech's bench. S3 PCI FTW!












Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


[email protected] OC is different than #d gameing OC. [email protected] OC will not kill a card that is not defective. YOU can OC the Core/Shader/Mem much higher on [email protected] Sometimes I forget to downclock before a game and boom!







I run my [email protected]/1836/1000 while folding on stock cooling. I don't even know my top speed for gameing







I just pop it won to stock!










I will have to remember that. I still have not tried the orginal card back in slot 1 again to see if it was just the loose connection. I was able to play games again w/out the artifacting. It only did it after I died and was waiting for the re-spawnage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


OMG! 52 updates







oh: I never do any updates. But I don't run software with holes in it (Cept FF: But I don't run alot of the poor plugins).


I wish I knew what that meant. Holes in software is that like an open back door for spy's or something?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Uninstall crysis, then run cc cleaner then go into regedit and search for Crysis string and delete any that have the companies name also that refer to crysis. Then reboot/reinstall. If that doesn't work you can always reinstall os later. Do you have reg backup to a functional time?


Here is the kicker, I was trying to install Crysis for the first time. Crysis has never been on this system from my clean os install from about a week ago. I have it on the other HDD but that one has the virus and not worth messing w/atm.


----------



## Hueristic

N2Gaming said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> 
> Pretty sure there is, A lot of us in the 939 have been talking about going X3 BTW, does your bios on the MSI have the core unlock "feature"?
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> G-Byte manages a club for AMD AM2 - AM3 CPU's it's more of a gerneral club not just specific to AM3's
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> that is the core to any tech's bench. S3 PCI FTW!
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> [email protected] OC is different than #d gameing OC. [email protected] OC will not kill a card that is not defective. YOU can OC the Core/Shader/Mem much higher on [email protected] Sometimes I forget to downclock before a game and boom!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I run my [email protected]/1836/1000 while folding on stock cooling. I don't even know my top speed for gameing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just pop it won to stock!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> I will have to remember that. I still have not tried the orginal card back in slot 1 again to see if it was just the loose connection. I was able to play games again w/out the artifacting. It only did it after I died and was waiting for the re-spawnage
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> OMG! 52 updates
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> oh: I never do any updates. But I don't run software with holes in it (Cept FF: But I don't run alot of the poor plugins).
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> I wish I knew what that meant. Holes in software is that like an open back door for spy's or something?
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Uninstall crysis, then run cc cleaner then go into regedit and search for Crysis string and delete any that have the companies name also that refer to crysis. Then reboot/reinstall. If that doesn't work you can always reinstall os later. Do you have reg backup to a functional time?
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> Here is the kicker, I was trying to install Crysis for the first time. Crysis has never been on this system from my clean os install from about a week ago. I have it on the other HDD but that one has the virus and not worth messing w/atm.
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Your quote is all messed up!
> here's a site I use for the latest vulnerabilities.
> http://cyberinsecure.com/
> 
> AFA the initial install problem, It happened before the updates? If not I would do a reg restore to before them and try to install then. M$ updates are evil. Just do the important service packs and don't use IE.


----------



## N2Gaming

If you wish to requote me I fixed the messed up quote job. I don't think I'll get that job any time soon. j/k









I will going to look at the link you provided. Thank you.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


If you wish to requote me I fixed the messed up quote job. I don't think I'll get that job any time soon. j/k









I will going to look at the link you provided. Thank you.


NP Br0, I was able to figure it out. So your not going for Editor status?









Yeah that site is on my list to check every few days. If it makes that list you should protect yourself.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Pretty sure there is, A lot of us in the 939 have been talking about going X3 BTW, does your bios on the MSI have the core unlock "feature"?

Thats for sure, I'm still going to wait until ~Nov. (black friday) to upgrade though, I'm hoping with the release of some of the newer chips will drive down the price of the existing ones. It'd be nice to pick up a 955 for $180 or less.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
[email protected] OC is different than a gaming OC. [email protected] OC will not kill a card that is not defective. YOU can OC the Core/Shader/Mem much higher on [email protected] Sometimes I forget to downclock before a game and boom!







I run my [email protected]/1836/1000 while folding on stock cooling. I don't even know my top speed for gaming







I just pop it won to stock!









Agreed, although I've noticed that having the core/mem OC'd doesn't really benefit much. Now ocing the shaders nets me a relatively large PPD increase. If you recall I was able to get ~1000 PPD increase when I OC'd.
For gaming I have found that the core and memory have a much larger impact on actual gaming performance.

if you guys haven't played around with the PCIe bus at all, there is a small increase to be had there.
On my A8N32SLI deluxe I found that I could OC the bus 5MHz per card and got a 1-2FPS increase per card (according to Crysis benchmark).

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
I now hate you!







Wanna trade















I'm going to RMA these, I spent a few hours on the Asrock and I still can't get the guaranteed speed of 2.5,2,2,6. As a matter of fact my Asrock detects them as 166 (ddr333) [email protected]#[email protected]! probably bios. at that speed though it will run at 2.5,2,2,6cr1. Lot of good that does me!

















, I was wondering what they were. When I tested them a few months ago I was able to get them to run @ DDR450 @ 2.65v. I bet @ 2.8v I'd be able to get them to run at DDR500 w/o issue.
I'll have to see what version my other set is.
Sad thing is, that infineon set of Corsairs is just sitting on my desk in an anti-static bag.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 

EDIT: Well with my active cooling (I put the damn thing right up to the AC unit







) I've got 2.5,2,3,[email protected] There is no way I'm going to get the advertised 2.5,2,2,6 so these are RMAable.

I would imagine so, but I guarantee that when you call them up they will say that they're not meant for overclocking,etc.etc. I ran into this issue with my Hyper-x's
that are supposed to run @ 2-3-2-6-1T. Well on my A8N32, no way in hell. When I'd set it to 1T, it would either fail to POST or do some crazy crap and make the rig go haywire. 1 time I thought I fried the board after setting it to 1T.
But for some reason on my DFi's they run 1T sans issue.








Supposedly, they're some good Samsung IC's, but I have never been able to get them to run any faster than DDR406 without it making everything act all weird.
I think I'll try volting the :turd: out of them


----------



## Blitz6804

Asus motherboards are very picky when it comes to what RAM they take, this could be the source of your issues BlackOmega.

Good luck with the RMA Hueristic; it seems cut and dry to me: they are advertised for one set of timings, but they can only run at a slower set; that seems the basis of a fraud charge right there if they refuse to replace.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Asus motherboards are very picky when it comes to what RAM they take, this could be the source of your issues BlackOmega.

Agreed, however the Hyper-x ram (KHXAK2/1G) that I bought was on the QVL, IIRC. I remember consulting the manual before purchasing. I remember on Asus's website it said that you must use some RAM that was on the QVL to avoid issues.


----------



## Blitz6804

I know Pioneeer's wont use his Kingston over DDR 402 at all. However, he took my Corsairs well in excess of DDR 500. Your mileage may vary I guess?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Agreed, although I've noticed that having the core/mem OC'd doesn't really benefit much. Now ocing the shaders nets me a relatively large PPD increase. If you recall I was able to get ~1000 PPD increase when I OC'd.
For gaming I have found that the core and memory have a much larger impact on actual gaming performance.


True Mem doesn't add much ppd but it also doesn't add temp. Core does have a mild effect and I find the higher I push the shaders the more the core matters.

Quote:










, I was wondering what they were. When I tested them a few months ago I was able to get them to run @ DDR450 @ 2.65v. I bet @ 2.8v I'd be able to get them to run at DDR500 w/o issue....


I <3 Samsung IC's! Always have since Rdram days. They have the best quality control and methods bar none IMO. I wish they would jump in the cpu race. Tons of respect for those guys.
I remember running 400MHZ on my PIII! and then going to 800mhz (all samsung BTW) on the same board!!!! Anyone that disses RDRAM doesn't have a clue.

Quote:



I would imagine so, but I guarantee that when you call them up they will say that they're not meant for overclocking,etc.etc. I ran into this issue with my Hyper-x's
that are supposed to run @ 2-3-2-6-1T. Well on my A8N32, no way in hell. When I'd set it to 1T, it would either fail to POST or do some crazy crap and make the rig go haywire. 1 time I thought I fried the board after setting it to 1T.
But for some reason on my DFi's they run 1T sans issue.









Supposedly, they're some good Samsung IC's, but I have never been able to get them to run any faster than DDR406 without it making everything act all weird. 
I think I'll try volting the :turd: out of them










Beware *Overvolting samsungs* is not always the way to go. Your TCCD's should run better with less voltage and your dram overdrive (yeah just higher signal) off.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Asus motherboards are very picky when it comes to what RAM they take, this could be the source of your issues BlackOmega.


Yup, I'd say this was his issue so Kingston could be right on this. You can't try a stick of memory on one board and if it doen't work RMA it.

Quote:



Good luck with the RMA Hueristic; it seems cut and dry to me: they are advertised for one set of timings, but they can only run at a slower set; that seems the basis of a fraud charge right there if they refuse to replace.


Yeah, thx. I never have an issue RMA'ing I always say send me to tier 2 or give me an engineer and if the tech doesn't I talk circles around them until they do.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Pretty sure there is, A lot of us in the 939 have been talking about going X3 BTW, does your bios on the MSI have the core unlock "feature"?


The ACC feature is there but won't unlock the extra core unless you have either the 1.4x Beta BIOS or the 0.0 Pre-release version.

I went to MSI's German site and got every Beta BIOS version they had and will try them soon.

EDIT: Check this out.
http://www.overclock.net/6720935-post3554.html

It's coming along guys.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


I <3 Samsung IC's! Always have since Rdram days. They have the best quality control and methods bar none IMO. I wish they would jump in the cpu race. Tons of respect for those guys.
I remember running 400MHZ on my PIII! and then going to 800mhz (all samsung BTW) on the same board!!!! Anyone that disses RDRAM doesn't have a clue.


 yeah RDRAM was the bomb diggity back in the day. MY old P4 uses it, and man when that thing came out is was fast.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Beware *Overvolting samsungs* is not always the way to go. Your TCCD's should run better with less voltage and your dram overdrive (yeah just higher signal) off.


 Well they're at 2.65v/2.67v, according to kingston the recommended voltage is 2.6v +/- 0.2v, so I figure I might just bump em up to the max recommended voltage and see what happens.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Yup, I'd say this was his issue so Kingston could be right on this. You can't try a stick of memory on one board and if it doesn't work RMA it.


 I've always had good luck with kingston RAM. Perhaps it was an incompatibility issue with the Asus board, on my DFi's it runs @ 1T no problem even with all 4 DIMMs occupied.


----------



## N2Gaming

Good News, I was able to install Crysis but not in the typical way. I would normally insert the DVD and the startup would display the intall splash screen from where I would click install. Any way this method was not working so I found out that I could just go to the Install.exe file on the disk and click on it to install the game. I was able to get to the part where you are cruising on the boat and I keep getting killed once I go back on land. So now it's working now and the display still has some weird anomolies but overall the display is way better then it was yesterday. I think I'm gonna try to put the card I had suspected to be defective back into the top red #1 slot to see if I get the artifacting again. If I don't get any artifacting w/the original card that was artifacting then would it be safe to say is was just a software issue?


----------



## Blitz6804

The easiest way to test is run Crysis with one card solely, the one you suspect is bad, and see what happens. Then run the one you think is good and see what happens. Having had a bad card before, I know that artifacting and driver crashes are more likely when the bad card is the primary one.


----------



## N2Gaming

thanks blitz, I just tested Crysis w/the original card I thought may have been defecting and I'm happy to say that it seemed to play or look a little better then the secondary card that I put in the primary slot. That makes sense being as the secondary card is the one that would give me the most trouble when folding. So now I have the system set up exactely as it was w/bone stock settings before I started the diagnostic process. I'm about to reboot to enable sli and give it another go to see if I can get better performance then what I have atm.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


- Clock Speed - 4014.67MHz
# Cores - 3
- Bus xMulti - 217.01 x18.5
- RAM Speed - DDR3 @ 578.7 (3:8)Mhz
- Vcore - 1.440v
- HT Link - 2170
- Motherboard - MSI 790FX-GD70
- Chipset - ATI 790FX (NB) - ATI SB750
- CPU Cooling - Stock 939 Opteron cooler (Not kidding)

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=606377


Kryton, I'm impressed. How did you manage 4Ghz with only 1.44 volts? Most of the 4Ghz overclocks I've seen have all been with 1.5+ volts. Have you started stability testing yet?

EDIT: S939 Opteron cooler LOL...I like that

N2Gaming, keep us updated on your situation. I'm curious to know what the resolution was. I'm glad most of us here are pointing you in the right direction









Good luck


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Kryton, I'm impressed. How did you manage 4Ghz with only 1.44 volts? Most of the 4Ghz overclocks I've seen have all been with 1.5+ volts. Have you started stability testing yet?

EDIT: S939 Opteron cooler LOL...I like that


I will be able to start testing after setting it up for watercooling. While doing that run, temps shot up dramatically and indicated this needs improvement before carrying on here. 
Right now I'm running it at 200x16 with 1.23v's and it's staying around 24C while browsing the web.

Seems like I once again got lucky and ended up with a great clocking chip - Not that's I'm complaining you know.


----------



## thlnk3r

Kryton, I think every chip you run into turns into a Goldy


----------



## Blitz6804

Kryton: I think you did get an epic chip. With an 18.5 multiplier, I cannot even run a 200 MHz HTT without increasing the voltage well into the 1.4s.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Kryton: I think you did get an epic chip. With an 18.5 multiplier, I cannot even run a 200 MHz HTT without increasing the voltage well into the 1.4s.

If this is about the chip in your sig, remember your chip will generate more heat than my chip will (95W vs 140W) and I can already tell these chips are sensitive to heat in a big way.
I'm suprised the Opty cooler is working as well as it does but I'm not crazy enough to try going for a record-breaking run as is. I've also noted with my chip once my multiplier is at 19X or more, it doesn't want to POST or clock as high. It's only natural that a higher multi will generate more heat within the chip itself since the chip at the same speed is doing more work vs using a lower multi with some FSB speed thrown in to help balance the workload.


----------



## Blitz6804

That is true, the fourth core does hurt in that regard. I have found that the chip generally prefers a lower multi with a higher HTT, just like my Toledo used to.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
If this is about the chip in your sig, remember your chip will generate more heat than my chip will (95W vs 140W) and I can already tell these chips are sensitive to heat in a big way.
I'm suprised the Opty cooler is working as well as it does but I'm not crazy enough to try going for a record-breaking run as is. I've also noted with my chip once my multiplier is at 19X or more, it doesn't want to POST or clock as high. It's only natural that a higher multi will generate more heat within the chip itself since the chip at the same speed is doing more work vs using a lower multi with some FSB speed thrown in to help balance the workload.

Before I sold my opty 165 I was going to lap it, but unfortunately I never got the opportunity.
I think I should mention to you, that before I got my Big Typhoon and Dark Knight I ran my opty cooler with a tornado fan on it. It definitely helped out in a big way. It also dropped the board temps considerably.
If you have one at your disposal, throw on a high CFM 90mm fan and see how it does.

Nice OC on that 720 BTW.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Before I sold my opty 165 I was going to lap it, but unfortunately I never got the opportunity. 
I think I should mention to you, that before I got my Big Typhoon and Dark Knight I ran my opty cooler with a tornado fan on it. It definitely helped out in a big way. It also dropped the board temps considerably. 
If you have one at your disposal, throw on a high CFM 90mm fan and see how it does.

Nice OC on that 720 BTW.










Thanks Omega!

Don't have a fan like that here but with WC'ing being prepared for it, I'm not worried about it so much. That should make a big difference.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
I will be able to start testing after setting it up for watercooling. While doing that run, temps shot up dramatically and indicated this needs improvement before carrying on here.
Right now I'm running it at 200x16 with 1.23v's and it's staying around 24C while browsing the web.

Seems like I once again got lucky and ended up with a great clocking chip - Not that's I'm complaining you know.













































:applau d:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Kryton, I think every chip you run into turns into a Goldy


----------



## Blitz6804

Remember everyone, the Socket 939 party at my house is just 6.5 weeks away on September 3, 2009. If you are getting tickets to BUF (Buffalo Niagara International Airport) I suggest you get them soon. If you are driving, do not forget to get EZpass; tolls are cheaper.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Remember everyone, the Socket 939 party at my house is just 6.5 weeks away on September 3, 2009. If you are getting tickets to BUF (Buffalo Niagara International Airport) I suggest you get them soon. If you are driving, do not forget to get EZpass; tolls are cheaper.


Have few or 5 for me guys! Wish I could get away from Indiana for once


----------



## Blitz6804

I do not know where you are in Indiana, but I know South Bend is about 8 hours away from me drive-wise. And think of this way, you will get to drive through Toledo! (Ohio...) We will miss you if you are not there, it is never a party without the brute squad!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I do not know where you are in Indiana, but I know South Bend is about 8 hours away from me drive-wise. And think of this way, you will get to drive through Toledo! (Ohio...) We will miss you if you are not there, it is never a party without the brute squad!

lol thanks Blitz, but I drive 18 miles to work and by the time I get there the temp gauge in the Jeep is on







In 8 hours I'm sure it would be molten steel and plastic haha


----------



## Kryton

That would be one LONG ride on the bike from here.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I do not know where you are in Indiana, but I know South Bend is about 8 hours away from me drive-wise. And think of this way, you will get to drive through Toledo! (Ohio...) We will miss you if you are not there, it is never a party without the brute squad!


Blitz, wish I could be there man.

Perhaps we could do a Skype S939 conference call with everyone


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Perhaps we could do a Skype S939 conference call with everyone










Eww....skype....

Oh, and it's official mates, my Skt 939 3700+ (single core) won't budge an inch, under clocking or overclocking.

I'm probably going to give it out as a freebie to one of you mates if you want. At a later date. I'm using it to stress test a board since I bought my friends testing chip he used for S939 (the Opty 185)


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Eww....skype....

Oh, and it's official mates, my Skt 939 3700+ (single core) won't budge an inch, under clocking or overclocking.

I'm probably going to give it out as a freebie to one of you mates if you want. At a later date. I'm using it to stress test a board since I bought my friends *testing chip* he used for S939 (the Opty 185)






































That's just cruel!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Eww....skype....

Oh, and it's official mates, my Skt 939 3700+ (single core) won't budge an inch, under clocking or overclocking.


Tator, is it really that bad? Everyone I talk to raves about it but I've personally have never played with the application.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*





































That's just cruel!


His FX was in his main rig, the Opty got switched around for testing 939 stuff, or benching, but was also in his backup rig till he went AM3.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator, is it really that bad? Everyone I talk to raves about it but I've personally have never played with the application.


Skype isn't bad, but the $$ is a little high I think. It's also kinda bloated, software wise. Not horrible, but they could skim down.

I'm just not a fan of the software.


----------



## Blitz6804

It was not a bad program at all. I used to have a phone I plugged right into my router to use Skype with a SkypeIn number. This gave me a real phone number with voicemail, all for $90. (Note: Not a telephony replacement, there is no 9-1-1. Note further: Skype to Skype is free.) The hardware was not necessary, but it was nice in that I could use Skype with no PCs turned on. My subscription is about to lapse unless I am mistaken.


----------



## Hueristic

What about that vent program?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


What about that vent program?


Hueristic, oh good suggestion. Either Ventrillo or Teamspeak would work


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


His FX was in his main rig, the Opty got switched around for testing 939 stuff, or benching, but was also in his backup rig till he went AM3.

Skype isn't bad, but the $$ is a little high I think. It's also kinda bloated, software wise. Not horrible, but they could skim down.

I'm just not a fan of the software.


I'm gonna have to agree to disagree with you sir







lol

I've been using skype for 2 years and it has been the clearest sounding app I used and it's free!


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


I've been using skype for 2 years and it has been the clearest sounding app I used and it's free!


As I've said, the program is good. It could use some skimming down.

The only thing I don't like is the $$.

The App for Skype is good, my only major complaint is it's not Open Source. And I'm a FOSS whore.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


As I've said, the program is good. It could use some skimming down.

The only thing I don't like is the $$.

The App for Skype is good, my only major complaint is it's not Open Source. And I'm a FOSS whore.


I will say the newest version of it is a bit heavy. I have to set the priority to below normal when I run it.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Hueristic, oh good suggestion. Either Ventrillo or Teamspeak would work










Look up Game Server Chat Beta 2.0 is Vista 64bit stable. Along with XP & WINE.

It doesn't have the Vent/TS trolls that sound byte your server to death.

It's free, and easy to setup a server for it on your home puter.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Remember everyone, the Socket 939 party at my house is just 6.5 weeks away on September 3, 2009. If you are getting tickets to BUF (Buffalo Niagara International Airport) I suggest you get them soon. If you are driving, do not forget to get EZpass; tolls are cheaper.


 I'm not sure if I'll be able to make it.







I've got a wedding in R.I. to go to, not sure if I'm even going to be able to make it to that. Kind of crappy, it's my best friends wedding.

But I'll look in to renting a car, maybe I can go pick some people up on the way









Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


lol thanks Blitz, but I drive 18 miles to work and by the time I get there the temp gauge in the Jeep is on







In 8 hours I'm sure it would be molten steel and plastic haha


 Sounds like it might need a thermostat and possibly a radiator. Year and model? Engine size?
I could probably walk you through replacing it.









As for some sort of teleconference, I'd definitely be down for that. Maybe...... we could all decide on a game and game it up or something.


----------



## Blitz6804

Cheapest travel is by car with everyone splitting the gas bills... plane/train tickets are usually only cost effective for single parties.

For those of you with Agena- or Deneb-based Socket 939 successors, or planned successors, you may wish to look into my writeup on K10Stat. Like Crystal-n-Quiet that I used on my Brisbane (and Pioneerisloud uses on his Opteron) it is a user-customizable cool 'n' quiet. Unlike the actual Cool 'n' Quiet, you can custom set any multiplier you want, as Cool 'n' Quiet must be disabled in the BIOS for it to work right.


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks for reminding me of this blitz. I posted a link to your link seen here. I hope your ok w/it. I gave you full credit for it of course.









I won't beat around the bush about your party invite. I would love to come being as I have never visited the east coast and would enjoy any oportunity to meet some great guys *but* Financial hardship is in full swing w/me lately and I am in a daily strugle to survive. So I will not be able to make the party in person. I would be willing to do some kind of audio or audio/video conference to say hi to all the fella's and of course to tip a glass to you all.


----------



## theCanadian

I'm selling my opteron 165 and board









I need ze money. Check the for sale forums if your interested.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I'm not sure if I'll be able to make it.







I've got a wedding in R.I. to go to,

Did I PM you my # for when your in RI? BTW Franz lives here too.

As I've said before Blitz I don't drive anymore so I won't be going unless I get a ride and that is doubtful as Nate (I was going to take the train 4hours from here to meet Nate and then another 2 to get to you.)is not going.

Actually you should make a list of who is because I don't think there will be enough for a lan party. BUT If you set up a gameserver and some type of team speak I'm sure we could all be available.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
BUT If you set up a gameserver and some type of team speak I'm sure we could all be available.

Hueristic, oh I'd be definitely game for that. I mostly am available at night.

Blitz, how many hours ahead are you? (wow I could use google for that question)


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Did I PM you my # for when your in RI? BTW Franz lives here too.

As I've said before Blitz I don't drive anymore so I won't be going unless I get a ride and that is doubtful as Nate (I was going to take the train 4hours from here to meet Nate and then another 2 to get to you.)is not going.

Actually you should make a list of who is because I don't think there will be enough for a lan party. BUT If you set up a gameserver and some type of team speak I'm sure we could all be available.


 Yeah you PM'd me, I'll have to check to make sure I still have it. Even going to RI is up in the air at the moment. And now the wife want's to go and take the kids as well







. 
If I end up going I'll keep ya posted as to whats going on.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Hueristic, oh I'd be definitely game for that. I mostly am available at night.

Blitz, how many hours ahead are you? (wow I could use google for that question)










I love your new System specs!









edit: BTW wasn't the Z80a 4.77mhz? I remember upgrading 8088's to z80 8mhz.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Yeah you PM'd me, I'll have to check to make sure I still have it. Even going to RI is up in the air at the moment. And now the wife want's to go and take the kids as well







. 
If I end up going I'll keep ya posted as to whats going on.










OK, Here's to hoping you make it!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
edit: BTW wasn't the Z80a 4.77mhz? I remember upgrading 8088's to z80 8mhz.

Hueristic, is it really 4.77Mhz? I'm going off of what Wikipedia says. I'll be honest I miss my C128. I wish I would have kept it


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, how many hours ahead are you? (wow I could use google for that question)










Blitz is east coast, so he's a good 3 hours ahead of you. (As you & Joe are California correct?)

Either way, a quick reminder is 
Pacific Standard Time = -8 hours
Mountain Standard Time = -7 hours
Central Standard Time = -6 hours
Eastern Standard Time = -5 hours.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Hueristic, is it really 4.77Mhz? I'm going off of what Wikipedia says. I'll be honest I miss my C128. I wish I would have kept it










Don't worry they'll be floating around forever. Do a search on craiglist or ebay and you'll find them. That's when componants were made to last!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Blitz is east coast, so he's a good 3 hours ahead of you. (As you & Joe are California correct?)

Either way, a quick reminder is 
Pacific Standard Time = -8 hours
Mountain Standard Time = -7 hours
Central Standard Time = -6 hours
Eastern Standard Time = -5 hours.


I'll still forget and I'm on EST!!!


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 

Actually you should make a list of who is because I don't think there will be enough for a lan party. BUT If you set up a gameserver and some type of team speak I'm sure we could all be available.

I'd check into Ventrilo before using Teamspeak. I've used both for simple chatting and while gaming.
My old online group found out Ventrilo uses less bandwidth than Teamspeak due to the games we played running smoother with less lag after switching to it - Not to mention Ventrilo is free to use for up to eight individuals at a time on a server.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
I'll still forget and I'm on EST!!!









I live in 5 different Time Zones, I never forget.









I have family in Ireland that I talk to regularly. My Uncle lives in Germany (military.)

2 of my good friends live in California.

I live in Missouri. I primarily games on east coast servers....







It's a hassle to manage, and I constantly forget the real time. But Insomnia helps to keep it all balanced.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
I'd check into Ventrilo before using Teamspeak. I've used both for simple chatting and while gaming.
My old online group found out Ventrilo uses less bandwidth than Teamspeak due to the games we played running smoother with less lag after switching to it - Not to mention Ventrilo is free to use for up to eight individuals at a time on a server.

Kryton, so I've heard. The last clan I was in used Vent and the sound clarity was pretty good. Now we just need to find someone to host a Vent server


----------



## noobd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Kryton, so I've heard. The last clan I was in used Vent and the sound clarity was pretty good. Now we just need to find someone to host a Vent server









High quality Vent servers go for like $2 a month for 10-12 slots.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *noobd* 
High quality Vent servers go for like $2 a month for 10-12 slots.









Noobd, oh dang you mean I can't host it off my TW account


----------



## N2Gaming

thlk3r, the free ventrillo server is only for 8 clients. If only we had a software guru that could make a patch to connect two ventrillo servers to each other for a total of 16 clients etc etc...or three or 4 vent servers.


----------



## Kryton

At one time I had an older machine setup with this and used it as the server. It was a Intel PII 400MHz Gateway machine and worked perfectly so you don't need a powerhouse rig to run it. Just a good, solid connection for the server and it will work.

As to the limitation on chat members, I can't suggest anything about that.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
thlk3r, the free ventrillo server is only for 8 clients. If only we had a software guru that could make a patch to connect two ventrillo servers to each other for a total of 16 clients etc etc...or three or 4 vent servers.









Look into Game Server Chat

Free, can hold up to 32 clients. Easy to host of a good connection. (Recommended a dedicated machine for it.)


----------



## noobd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Look into Game Server Chat

Free, can hold up to 32 clients. Easy to host of a good connection. (Recommended a dedicated machine for it.)

GSC was started by Gameservers.com, its a really innovate program that fuses Xfire and Ventrilo. The problem is Xfire and Vent have such strong grips on the gaming world its hard for GSC to get its foot in the door.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Look into Game Server Chat

Free, can hold up to 32 clients. Easy to host of a good connection. (Recommended a dedicated machine for it.)



Well I have plenty of machines that I could use for a dedicated voice server but lack the knowledge to properly set it up for security and redundancy.









Does any one know how to set up Crysis benchmark to test for stability?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Look into Game Server Chat

Free, can hold up to 32 clients. Easy to host of a good connection. (Recommended a dedicated machine for it.)



Quote:



Originally Posted by *noobd*


GSC was started by Gameservers.com, its a really innovate program that fuses Xfire and Ventrilo. The problem is Xfire and Vent have such strong grips on the gaming world its hard for GSC to get its foot in the door.


Tator, thanks buddy. I remember you mentioning that in a previous post. I guess we'll have to check that out.

Noobd, that is interesting. I didn't know the app was started by Gameservers.com


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator, thanks buddy. I remember you mentioning that in a previous post. I guess we'll have to check that out.

Noobd, that is interesting. I didn't know the app was started by Gameservers.com











Yep, my Gaming Community uses GSC for everything we do. We have 3 different "servers" under 1 main server. 
1 For DoD:s
1 For TF2
1 for L4D

It's really nice and GSC doesn't get raided like Vent does.


----------



## noobd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Noobd, that is interesting. I didn't know the app was started by Gameservers.com










Yep! I am a "distinguished member" on a Call of Duty forum that was bought by Gameservers, so I know quite a bit =p


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Does any one know how to set up Crysis benchmark to test for stability?


I'm assuming you're checking OC on a GPU. Simply just run it maxed out or "set to game resolution" and click go. You can set it to loop as many times as you want. And then you just simply sit there and watch for artifacts. If it starts artifacting at all, simply hit esc and it'll immediately close the benchmark.

but if you're trying to stress a gpu for stability, furmark is a better test as it'll get the GPU much hotter than gaming ever will.

but if its just for gaming then the Crysis benchmark will do just fine.


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks BO, I was asking how to run Crysis benchmark loop? Do I have to down load the Crysis benchmark tool or does the game have it built into the game? I can run run 1280 x 1024 16x AA and all my advanced settings at High. For some reason the setting higher then High is greyed out and I can not select those options...


----------



## Blitz6804

You can only run "Ultra High" with DirectX 10, which is not available on XP.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thanks BO, I was asking how to run Crysis benchmark loop? Do I have to down load the Crysis benchmark tool or does the game have it built into the game? I can run run 1280 x 1024 16x AA and all my advanced settings at High. For some reason the setting higher then High is greyed out and I can not select those options...


 The benchmark is separate, you can download it here.

Then when you run it, there is an area where you input how many loops you want it to run, AFAIK it can be infinite.

As for the settings, since you're running XP, even though its 64bit, I think its still DX9. The ultra high settings are for DX10 IIRC.


----------



## Blitz6804

If I remember right, the benchmark tool is just a GUI for the built-in benchmark tool, which is done via BAT files and the command prompt.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


but if you're trying to stress a gpu for stability, furmark is a better test as it'll get the GPU much hotter than gaming ever will.

but if its just for gaming then the Crysis benchmark will do just fine.


Well I'm at all stock settings cpu/ram/gpu and I am not able to run crysis in sli mode. further more my mobo heats up more w/I run sli configurations. I am trying to determine if it is my mobo, gpu or other componants in my system. The problem I am having is artifacting while playing crysis while in sli mode. I think my south bridge may be getting to hot but Everest Ultimate 5.2 tells me I'm only at 52C and the Tech at Foxconn told me today that it should be able to go 80C no Prolem... the chipset that is. He suggested that I install another OS like win7 x86 w/32 bit drivers to make sure it's not a driver issue. Additionally I would be able to use DX10 and the Very High video settings for testing. I don't even plan on being able to play on very high at 1920x1080 but I may give it a shot at 1280x1024 16x AA all eye candy at very high... I am all over the place w/this atm and just finished working on my garage a little... I'm gonna see if I can get a work bench in there again for my computer builds and diagnostic testing... I will hook up an older 27" CRT Magnavox Smart picture/sound TV from the early 90's to the pc for a monitor & Speakers.







My GF is tired of me Hogging the 40" LCD in the living room.







I think I still want to test all the slots to make sure it's not a slot thing before I reload another OS. I recall Win7 not playing well w/my Belkin USB wireless adaptor. So Oh that reminds me. On my front pannel my Lexar USB thumb drive quite working in the front pannel. I can unplug it and plug it back in but then after a while it stops working again. Does this sound like a mobo issue to any one?

Edit: Well I have been having other sound anomolies in addition to the artifacting and Crysis sometimes will not load and other times it crashes to the desktop while I'm playing and other times it just causes the system to lock up but the music is still playing in the background. I think I may just try to remove all expansion GPU's and just try running the onboard Gforce 8400 to see if it has any problems w/crysis... I has the worst luck lately...


----------



## BlackOmega

N2, I think the virus you had has wreaked havoc on your OS. Personally,I'd reinstall and call it a day. I know its a pain in the ass. Last time I got a virus and "got rid" of it, some games didn't work right or even load at all. And others would just crash to the desktop.

As for me I finally decided to get my folding rigs going again. Got folding rig 2 up and running. Planning on SLI modding my other UltraD tomorrow. In preparation for it I removed the NB cooler and found where I had stuck my lapped one.
Well while I have it off I snapped a few pic's of it. Thought I'd show you guys.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I think I may just try to remove all expansion GPU's and just try running the onboard Gforce 8400 to see if it has any problems w/crysis... I has the worst luck lately...














































Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
As for me I finally decided to get my folding rigs going again. Got folding rig 2 up and running.





































:cheer s:


----------



## Blitz6804

There are two possible reasons for the higher chipset temperature N2Gaming. First, with two GPUs, airflow to the chipset will be decreased. Second, doing SLI requires the chipset to do more than running two independent cards. In any event, 52Âº C is not unreasonable for a chipset. In fact, I would be willing to say anything under 60Âº C is reasonable, which in turn is far lower than the Foxconn-reported max of 80Âº C.

I know it sucks, but I have to agree with BlackOmega; a reinstall might be in your future. Something you can try if you have a spare HDD: install the OS on your spare drive. Install all needed drivers. Install and run Crysis. If the problem is solved, then reformat your primary drive. If it is still broken, something else might be at play. If you fix it this way, you will have wasted three hours or so in additional setup time. If you do not fix it this way, you at least do not need to completely reconfigure your operating system exactly how you like it. As Hueristic might say, "Work smarter, not harder."


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I know it sucks, but I have to agree with BlackOmega; a reinstall might be in your future. Something you can try if you have a spare HDD: install the OS on your spare drive. Install all needed drivers. Install and run Crysis. If the problem is solved, then reformat your primary drive. If it is still broken, something else might be at play. If you fix it this way, you will have wasted three hours or so in additional setup time. If you do not fix it this way, you at least do not need to completely reconfigure your operating system exactly how you like it. As Hueristic might say, "Work smarter, not harder."


This is a good suggestion Blitz.

N2Gaming, I too am putting my vote in for a reinstall. Any time you get a virus you need to immediately back up your data and hose that drive. Sure cleaning the drive with a virus scan may work but why take the risk? Who knows if the virus is still on your machine laying dormant. For all we know you could have a rootkit on your machine. Heck you could have a keylogger and not even know it. It could be recording everything you're doing (personal business, banking info, secret conversations with aliens ect). Installing a fresh copy of Windows is always a nice thing to do anyways...start off with a fresh registry









Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks guys. I totally agree w/the clean install option. Since the virus some 2+ weeks ago I have done 2 clean fresh OS installs. So Virus is not the issue unless for some reason it is sticking to my hdd through firmware or something. I always delete all partitions before completing a fresh install. I'm just going to try Win7 32 bit this time. Awe man I got to get one of my folding rigs going for July Fold-a-thon.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thanks guys. I totally agree w/the clean install option. Since the virus some 2+ weeks ago I have done 2 clean fresh OS installs. So Virus is not the issue unless for some reason it is sticking to my hdd through firmware or something. I always delete all partitions before completing a fresh install. I'm just going to try Win7 32 bit this time. Awe man I got to get one of my folding rigs going for July Fold-a-thon.










 It's highly improbable that its "stuck" in the hardware somewhere. It is also possible that you keep re-installing the virus through some software like mp3's and what not. Make sure you scan each file before you install.

And yeah the fold-a-thon (starts today) is why I got folding rig 2 going again. I'm still procrastinating on SLI modding my other board. But I suppose it would serve as a good comparison on temps between the lapped and unlapped coolers.

Crappy thing now is, my evga is sitting ~80*C folding away and I can't monitor card 2 because the stupid asus software can't find it because its the secondary card. I'm hoping that it automatically adjusts fan speed according to temp. The orb style cooler it has on there actually works pretty well as long as it has adequate airflow.


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

BLeh, i need a 939 motherboard to get my folding rig (3800 x2) running agian.

SiGh............


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary*


BLeh, i need a 939 motherboard to get my folding rig (3800 x2) running agian.

SiGh............


Are you going to GPU fold too?


----------



## N2Gaming

Well I was going to put my 2x9800GT OC's in my M2N32 SLI Deluxe rig and fold w/those while I tested it's 8600GTS's in my Destroyer for Crysis artifacting etc etc but now the HDD is completely dead on the M2N32 SLI Deluxe system. Sigh. I'm beginning to hate computers







So I'm gonna have to put off folding untll I can get it figured out. I'm sure I will fold some time before tomorrow.









Edit: The M2N systems HDD don't even spin up and I'm using my other identical HDD in the Destroyer for testing. Oh well. I know I put the Destroyer back together w/it's original Virus corrupt HDD and the 8600GTS's for testing while I test the circuit board on the M2N systems HDD to see if it's a dead mobo or a dead motor.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
It's highly improbable that its "stuck" in the hardware somewhere. It is also possible that you keep re-installing the virus through some software like mp3's and what not. Make sure you scan each file before you install.

BlackOmega, good point. He may be installing an application that has the virus in it. I'll admit it, this has happened to me a few times in the past hahah.

It is possible that the master boot record became infected with a virus. I've had this happen to me a few times. The firmware on the drive can also be infected but from what I understand it is a rare occurrence but it can happen.

Good luck


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
The M2N systems HDD don't even spin up and I'm using my other identical HDD in the Destroyer for testing. Oh well. I know I put the Destroyer back together w/it's original Virus corrupt HDD and the 8600GTS's for testing while I test the circuit board on the M2N systems HDD to see if it's a dead mobo or a dead motor.

N2Gaming, make sure the 4-pin molex connect (or sata connector) is firmly attached and plugged in. Try a different power connector as well. Does the drive make any sounds when it's powered on?

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, good point. He may be installing an application that has the virus in it. I'll admit it, this has happened to me a few times in the past hahah.

It is possible that the master boot record became infected with a virus. I've had this happen to me a few times. The firmware on the drive can also be infected but from what I understand it is a rare occurrence but it can happen.

Good luck


 Same here th|nk3r. Years ago when I used napster, I had downloaded a bunch of songs that were infected. I wound up re-installing them a few times. Finally got fed up with it, I scanned every single file that was getting installed on the rig. Lo and behold, tons of my mp3's had viruses attached to them. Needless to say ~ 15GB of mp3's went bye bye.


----------



## decimator

Just got my new mobo (AT8-32X) and put everything together and so far it's been a wild ride







. Couldn't boot into Vista after installing my 2nd 2900XT after installing the OS and display driver, so I just left my 2nd card installed formatted my hard drive and started over again. Installed the OS and service packs without problems but apparently Catalyst 9.6 drivers hate my machine...got the error "The INF file was not found".

So I rolled back to 9.5 and those installed smoothly. I go to run 3DMark Vantage and I get a BSOD halfway through the 2nd graphics test. So I roll back further to 9.4 and these install smoothly as well. I go to run Vantage again and the benchmark stops midway through the 1st graphics test with the error "atikmdag has stopped responding but has successfully recovered" (hey, at least no BSOD







). A little research brings to light that this has something to do with Vista's "Timeout, Detection, and Recovery" feature, which detects timeouts by the display driver and automatically exits the application. It's a benchmark after all, though, and low FPS is to be expected, so I disable TDR and try again.

Now I get this error halfway through the 1st graphics test: "A script in this movie is causing Adobe Flash Player 9 to run slowly. If it continues to run, your computer may become unresponsive. Do you want to abort the script?" LOL, I'll figure it out eventually







. It might just be that my 1GB of RAM just isn't cutting it. I'll try 3dMark06 and if it runs fine, then that's good enough for me since I don't have any DX10 games anyway.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, make sure the 4-pin molex connect (or sata connector) is firmly attached and plugged in. Try a different power connector as well. Does the drive make any sounds when it's powered on?

Good luck


Thlk3r I just swopped the circuit board on this dead HDD w/one from a identical working HDD. It was a seagate that I already had problems w/in the past. Once I tested the good HDD's circuit board I realized that sure nuff it is another firmware issue on that HDD. I"m gonna have to get yet another RMA From seagate i365 for Firmware repair & data recovery


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


Just got my new mobo (AT8-32X) and put everything together and so far it's been a wild ride







. Couldn't boot into Vista after installing my 2nd 2900XT after installing the OS and display driver, so I just left my 2nd card installed formatted my hard drive and started over again. Installed the OS and service packs without problems but apparently Catalyst 9.6 drivers hate my machine...got the error "The INF file was not found".

So I rolled back to 9.5 and those installed smoothly. I go to run 3DMark Vantage and I get a BSOD halfway through the 2nd graphics test. So I roll back further to 9.4 and these install smoothly as well. I go to run Vantage again and the benchmark stops midway through the 1st graphics test with the error "atikmdag has stopped responding but has successfully recovered" (hey, at least no BSOD







). A little research brings to light that this has something to do with Vista's "Timeout, Detection, and Recovery" feature, which detects timeouts by the display driver and automatically exits the application. It's a benchmark after all, though, and low FPS is to be expected, so I disable TDR and try again.

Now I get this error halfway through the 1st graphics test: "A script in this movie is causing Adobe Flash Player 9 to run slowly. If it continues to run, your computer may become unresponsive. Do you want to abort the script?" LOL, I'll figure it out eventually







. It might just be that my 1GB of RAM just isn't cutting it. I'll try 3dMark06 and if it runs fine, then that's good enough for me since I don't have any DX10 games anyway.


 1gb with vista







. You should run xp, it should run a lto more smoothly.

As for the ATi drivers, I'm running 9.3 at the moment and have no issues with it. I only installed that one as I had it backed up on CD and didn't feel like d/ling the new one.

As for adobe, why is flash player even running? It shouldn't be. Look in task manager and see if there is a process directly correlating to adobe. When you find it, end task. Then you could go into msconfig and shut the service down. When you do that, flashplayer will only start up when needed and not run all the time. I hate it when software installs crap that runs all the time unnecessarily. Thats why I don't use itunes. They install some iPod launcher and itunes launcher that runs constantly whether you're using itunes or not.







man I hate that.


----------



## N2Gaming

I was able to swop out the 9800GT's for the 8600GTS's in the Destroyer and I did not have the sli artifacting like when I ran sli's 9800's. This makes me think it is the cards. Now I have to do yet another clean install on the M2N32 system so that I can confirm this w/that system. I think I'm getting lazy cause it just seems like to much work


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


Installed the OS and service packs without problems but apparently Catalyst 9.6 drivers hate my machine...got the error "The INF file was not found".


Decimate, were you getting that error during the 9.6 install or after it was finished? Sounds like to me the installer didn't download completely finish downloading...perhaps a corrupt version? Honestly a lot of the problems sound Vista related. It probably doesn't help that you have 1GB of memory either. As BO suggested have you tried testing with Windows XP?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thlk3r I just swopped the circuit board on this dead HDD w/one from a identical working HDD. It was a seagate that I already had problems w/in the past. Once I tested the good HDD's circuit board I realized that sure nuff it is another firmware issue on that HDD. I"m gonna have to get yet another RMA From seagate i365 for Firmware repair & data recovery










N2Gaming, I remember you swapping the controllers out. Man so the controller died AGAIN? Geeze. Does this particular model have a bad track record? Was this the Seagate 1TB drive that needed updated firmware to fix problems in the SD15 "faulty" firmware?

Good luck


----------



## decimator

Thx for the tips, Omega, I'll give them a try later.

Anyway, I just ran through 3DMark06 and i got a score of 6522...that's lower than my previous hardware config that consisted of only one 2900XT, which got 9150...something's not right here







.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


Anyway, I just ran through 3DMark06 and i got a score of 6522...that's lower than my previous hardware config that consisted of only one 2900XT, which got 9150...something's not right here







.


Decimate, were you running the same ATI driver version with the previous hardware configuration?

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, I remember you swapping the controllers out. Man so the controller died AGAIN? Geeze. Does this particular model have a bad track record? Was this the Seagate 1TB drive that needed updated firmware to fix problems in the SD15 "faulty" firmware?

Good luck


Yes to firmwar SD15 but on a 500GB 32mb cache HDD. Yeah I bought an identical HDD on ebay for a good price and was able to diagnose the HDD problems to the circuit board last time. So I just duplicated the diagnostic method this time and re-confirmed my suspicions of the Firmware issue. It sucks cause I was going to fold w/the M2N rig and the 9800GT's while I tried the 8600's in the Destroyer. Oh well now I have to do yet another clean install.

The original Destroyer HDD that had the virus on it does not have any thing that can not be replaced so I think this time I will just Do a clean install onto the WD 500GB HDD that I normally use for the Destroyer.

Shwew wipes forehead. I got my 8600's w/the x4 940 folding 4 clients atm. 2x gpu's & 2x CPU's. I think one if not both of the 9800's are defective. One of them for sure. That sucks but loads...

Edit: I noticed Nvidia put out yet another Driver.190.32 or something like that.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, I remember you swapping the controllers out. Man so the controller died AGAIN? Geeze. Does this particular model have a bad track record? Was this the Seagate 1TB drive that needed updated firmware to fix problems in the SD15 "faulty" firmware?

Good luck


Many of the Seagate HDD's had an issue with bad firmware, and it's really not even that. The controllers are just bad.

It effects the 500gb 7200.11 1TB 7200.11 & 1.5TB 7200.11 drives.

Seagate had a huge flop with those.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


Thx for the tips, Omega, I'll give them a try later.

Anyway, I just ran through 3DMark06 and i got a score of 6522...that's lower than my previous hardware config that consisted of only one 2900XT, which got 9150...something's not right here







.


Call my crazy on this one, but with my x2 4000+ @ 3.0ghz & CFX 2900XT's I was way above your score.

I would roll back to 8.9 drivers, I used those at the time. And I think it might be a current driver issue. Make sure to use Driver Sweeper or Cleaner to get rid of all previous driver files.


----------



## Blitz6804

BlackOmega: Adobe Flash Player is required to run Vantage for some reason. I think the menus are Flash-based.

decimate: See if you can get ahold of another 1 GB for better Vista performance.

All: In other news, I personally run CCC 9.6 fine.


----------



## Tator Tot

@Blitz, After CCC 8.11 drivers, HD2000 series performance plummets. And with both my HD2600 & HD2900Xt CFX I have found the sweet spot in drivers to be 8.9's.


----------



## Blitz6804

That makes sense Tator. I was letting BlackOmega know that 4.6 work fine on series 4xxx cards; I get better performance than the 4.3s. I am curious how the 4.7s will do.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, good point. He may be installing an application that has the virus in it. I'll admit it, this has happened to me a few times in the past hahah.

It is possible that the master boot record became infected with a virus. I've had this happen to me a few times. The firmware on the drive can also be infected but from what I understand it is a rare occurrence but it can happen.

Good luck


MAN I remeber when the Bloody came out, that screwed with me for 2 months!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thlk3r I just swopped the circuit board on this dead HDD w/one from a identical working HDD. It was a seagate that I already had problems w/in the past. Once I tested the good HDD's circuit board I realized that sure nuff it is another firmware issue on that HDD. I"m gonna have to get yet another RMA From seagate i365 for Firmware repair & data recovery


















seagate has sucked since RLL first came out.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


@Blitz, After CCC 8.11 drivers, HD2000 series performance plummets. And with both my HD2600 & HD2900Xt CFX* I have found the sweet spot in drivers to be 8.9's*.


Nice to see you getting somewhere!


----------



## decimator

All right, sounds good. I think I'm going to format my HDD and say sayonara to Vista...it's not worth it for me. Also, those Catalyst 8.9 drivers seem pretty tasty right about now...Thanks for the heads-up.


----------



## Blitz6804

Maybe for fun try Windows7 RC in your travels? It is much faster and responsive than Vista. However, it still benches lower than XP does.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


@Blitz, After CCC 8.11 drivers, HD2000 series performance plummets. And with both my HD2600 & HD2900Xt CFX I have found the sweet spot in drivers to be 8.9's.


Tator, the later versions of 8.xx drivers were pretty good. I had version 8.11 for a while and never upgraded. I never saw a point to.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Tator, the later versions of 8.xx drivers were pretty good. I had version 8.11 for a while and never upgraded. I never saw a point to.

After 8.12 drivers, a clear slope downwards in performance was noticed. Clean installs every time.

Though, 8.11's were only 1-3FPS worse than 8.9's for me.

IIRC, 8.10's gave me a fan speed issue on my HD2600 Pro. Though, I've keyed this into being a Non Reference model. (HIS IceQ Turbo)
As my HD2900Xt's had no such issues.


----------



## thlnk3r

Tator, I noticed you picked up a HD4670...how is it?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
BlackOmega: Adobe Flash Player is required to run Vantage for some reason. I think the menus are Flash-based.









why the hell would they do that? Just another process to hog resources and lower your score, and obviously, potentially cause problems.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
That makes sense Tator. I was letting BlackOmega know that 4.6 work fine on series 4xxx cards; I get better performance than the 4.3s. I am curious how the 4.7s will do.

Good to know, thanks Blitz. I'll have to give them a shot. So far on the drawing board, I have SLI modding my other ultra-d and getting folding rig 1 up and running.
The wife will be happy that I got all of my stuff put together......

But that brings me to another point. How much power can I draw off of 1 power strip? Do you guys think that I could potentially have issue running all 3 of my rigs off of 1 power strip?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Tator, I noticed you picked up a HD4670...how is it?

HD2900Xt 512bit GDDR4 performance, at a $60 price point. Along with 1/4th the TDP....

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
But that brings me to another point. How much power can I draw off of 1 power strip? Do you guys think that I could potentially have issue running all 3 of my rigs off of 1 power strip?

Depending on the strip, but I have a basic one from GE that I run 3 computers off of. (300watt idle/400watt load including Monitors for them all)

It's more about the socket you are connected to, then the actual power strip.


----------



## Blitz6804

Epic typos... those should 9.X, not 4.X.

As to your power strip: check the joules rating for surges before you do that. You might start having amperage overdraw putting that many PCs on one breaker.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
But that brings me to another point. How much power can I draw off of 1 power strip? Do you guys think that I could potentially have issue running all 3 of my rigs off of 1 power strip?

BlackOmega, check the rating on the powerstrip to see if it can handle it. More than likely you'll be fine. What you need to worry about is what else is on that same circuit in your home. Three systems running full load will draw at least 2.5 - 3 amps if not more. Are these going to be folders?

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Depends on the rig Thlnk3r; my testing showed that I pull upwards of 8.5 A with just this rig.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Depends on the rig Thlnk3r; my testing showed that I pull upwards of 8.5 A with just this rig.

Blitz, one computer alone? Or was that with everything plugged into your UPS (monitor, speakers ect)? If he has the PC's only plugged in with a power cable and nothing else well it may not be that much. I'm assuming the PC's can be remotely accessed via RDP.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well, I figured I'd let you guys know, I had to sell my Opteron and my 8800







. Sig rig is correct as of now.


----------



## Blitz6804

JUST my PC. Nothing else. Granted, I have a bit bigger power draw than the average system, it is still worth mentioning.

Pio: (;_


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


JUST my PC. Nothing else. Granted, I have a bit bigger power draw than the average system, it is still worth mentioning.

Pio: (;_










Yeah, I know. I only got $50 for both the card and CPU







. Adds insult to injury







.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


JUST my PC. Nothing else. Granted, I have a bit bigger power draw than the average system, it is still worth mentioning.


Blitz, ahhh yeah I forgot. You have those two power hogs in your computer


----------



## DesertRat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Yeah, I know. I only got $50 for both the card and CPU







. Adds insult to injury







.


Pio, you're an idiot.... I'm sorry, but you know that even to a lowballing n00b that combo was worth more than that.

*sigh*

Well at least it's nice to see you're still alive *ques music*

edit: Also s939club admin can move me to the nostalgics. My last s939 gear is up on ebay right now. well, the 2 mobos are, I've still got a 3800X2 and a opty 170. Those will be put up soon tho.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DesertRat*


Pio, you're an idiot.... I'm sorry, but you know that even to a lowballing n00b that combo was worth more than that.

*sigh*

Well at least it's nice to see you're still alive *ques music*

edit: Also s939club admin can move me to the nostalgics. My last s939 gear is up on ebay right now. well, the 2 mobos are, I've still got a 3800X2 and a opty 170. Those will be put up soon tho.


Yeah, I know







. But I needed gas money so I could continue the hunt for work. That was the only thing I could sell for money







. I was ORIGINALLY just trying to sell the card, and I would have bought a better card later....but he wanted my Opteron too, and he only had $50.

So yeah....


----------



## N2Gaming

Sorry to hear of your loss Pio, but look on the bright side. You managed to get something for it.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Epic typos... those should 9.X, not 4.X.

As to your power strip: check the joules rating for surges before you do that. You might start having amperage overdraw putting that many PCs on one breaker.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, check the rating on the powerstrip to see if it can handle it. More than likely you'll be fine. What you need to worry about is what else is on that same circuit in your home. Three systems running full load will draw at least 2.5 - 3 amps if not more. Are these going to be folders?

Good luck



The power strip I bought was rated highly for power going through it. Hell it has ~4AWG power wire (possibly larger).

I believe it was rated @ 110amps. Basically the highest power handling capacity they had in the store.

Only 2 of the rigs are going to be folding 24/7. The 3rd, my sig rig, is primarily for gaming, perusing the net and watching movies. But I believe that it will have the highest power draw of all the rigs simply due to the amount of hardware inside it.
I suppose the worst that can happen is I trip a breaker.

Well, I'm about to start modding the second ultra-D. It appears that it does have epoxy over the pins. I'll take pics, hopefully they'll turn out better than the ones of my NB cooler. Once I'm done I'll be able to see if lapping it really helps or not since the boards will in essence be identical other than the CPU.

Pio, sorry to hear about your loss.







those parts together should've fetched at least double that, if not triple.
Hope you find a job soon.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, the most you should do is blow the fuse in the power strip or pop the breaker in your house. If you have those three rigs on the same breaker already (which could be possible if they are all in the same room) you need not worry about that. The epoxy over the pins was intended to prevent people from doing exactly what you intend... do eet!


----------



## decimator

Well, just formatted C: and did a fresh install of XP Pro SP3 and Catalyst 8.11 display drivers. Ran 3DMark06 and got a score of 10429. Does that score look about right for my system?


----------



## Blitz6804

It certainly does not seem to be out of line. I presume you are running your CPU at its stock 2.6 GHz as per your signature, in which case, it sounds about right.


----------



## decimator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
It certainly does not seem to be out of line. I presume you are running your CPU at its stock 2.6 GHz as per your signature, in which case, it sounds about right.

That is correct. My CPU score in 3DMark06 is just shy of 2000. I think some tweaking can change that, though







. According to uGuru, my CPU is idling at 35*C with a threshold at 75*C (which I think is a bit insane and I'm not going anywhere near that high...). Still haven't figured out load temps at stock, but whatever they are right now, I'm sure I'll have plenty of room to OC.


----------



## Blitz6804

The Opteron 185 tops out at 65Âº C. If you tweak your CPU up to 2.8 GHz, you should see an improvement to around 2100 3DMarks. I cannot link you to my Toledo's results, as that was done in Vista, were CPU scores are known to be lower than in XP. (I see a 15% hit on my present rig for Vista Ultimate x64 SP2 as compared to XP Pro x64 SP2.)


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Sorry to hear of your loss Pio, but look on the bright side. You managed to get something for it.










So am I Pio and hoping you find something quickly so at least you can get some $$ coming in again.

Also hoping I don't windup in a similar situation one day and if I ever do, I hope there's someone around with $$ to buy my stuff.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


Well, just formatted C: and did a fresh install of XP Pro SP3 and Catalyst 8.11 display drivers. Ran 3DMark06 and got a score of 10429. Does that score look about right for my system?


Decimate, great job on getting everything situated with Windows XP. I'm glad your machine is up and running. Are the 2900XT's Crossfired? I was looking at the 3DMark website (ORB) and there are some Athlon X2's with the 2900XT in the same range but I wasn't sure if you had both cards Crossfired during that testing?

Blitz, would you know the average score for those cards if they were setup in Crossfire?

Good luck


----------



## decimator

Yes, they were Crossfired. I'm a bit perplexed myself about that score because when I ran a single 2900XT on my older mobo, an A8R-MVP which is no longer in my possession, I got a score of 9150. Does adding a 2nd 2900XT only add a 1000 or so extra 3DMarks?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


Yes, they were Crossfired. I'm a bit perplexed myself about that score because when I ran a single 2900XT on my older mobo, an A8R-MVP which is no longer in my possession, I got a score of 9150. Does adding a 2nd 2900XT only add a 1000 or so extra 3DMarks?


3dmark06 does relie on your cpu quite a bit. I was getting about 11-12k w/a x2 5400+BE and 2x 9800GT's but when I used the same rig w/a diff cpu X4 940BE my score went up to almost 18k


----------



## BlackOmega

Well gentlemen, SLI mod no.2 was a success. Unfortunately I had to reinstall the OS on this IDE drive which took for freakin ever







.
At any rate here is my GPUz validation and my CPUz validation.

And here is a screenshot of my gpuz.


----------



## decimator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
3dmark06 does relie on your cpu quite a bit. I was getting about 11-12k w/a x2 5400+BE and 2x 9800GT's but when I used the same rig w/a diff cpu X4 940BE my score went up to almost 18k

Ok, makes sense. I looked up some scores on ORB and I saw that a guy got a score of 10397 with an Opteron 165 clocked at 2.9 GHz and a single 2900XT. I guess it's definitely within the realm of plausibility that I got 10429 with 2 2900XT's and a stock Opteron 185.


----------



## Blitz6804

The HD 2900 XT performs slightly better than an HD 3870 in most situations, and as such, I would assume that to be the case here too. As such, he should be out performing my past HD 3850 setup by around 5% or so. From here on out, the rest of my post is mostly speculation.

A single HD 3850 clocked in around 9000 flat at 2.8 GHz in Vista. Thus, a single HD 2900 XT should clock in around 9450 also in Vista. Since decimate is in XP, we can estimate that his lower speed cancels out my Vista penalty. My CPU score was around 2000.

Adding a GPU into the equation complicates matters, as my testing was less through than it should have been. I have only HD 3850 Crossfired on my Brisbane, not also my Toledo. (Interestingly, the score for a Toledo at 2.8 GHz was identical to that of a Brisbane at 2.8 GHz when using a single card.) However, I notice that adding a graphics card on the Brisbane added around 1200 points.

Thus, a score of 10,600 would not be unreasonable. While 10,429 is a fuzz below the anticipated, I am dabbling in a game of estimations, and so errors are compiled. Further, I completely clear out my system tray prior to testing. If decimate does not do this, expect his score to be naturally lower.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Well, I figured I'd let you guys know, I had to sell my Opteron and my 8800







. Sig rig is correct as of now.














































Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Yeah, I know. I only got $50 for both the card and CPU







. Adds insult to injury







.

You should have popped in here, you would have made more and paypal is instant.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Well gentlemen, SLI mod no.2 was a success. Unfortunately I had to reinstall the OS on this IDE drive which took for freakin ever







.

Nice job man, How hard was it getting the epoxy off? +rep

Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 
Ok, makes sense. I looked up some scores on ORB and I saw that a guy got a score of 10397 with an Opteron 165 clocked at 2.9 GHz and a single 2900XT. I guess it's definitely within the realm of plausibility that I got 10429 with 2 2900XT's and a stock Opteron 185.

Do you have doom3 for a timedemo? I hate these bench programs they're skewed by the drivers. Auqamark was a good one though.


----------



## decimator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Thus, a score of 10,600 would not be unreasonable. While 10,429 is a fuzz below the anticipated, I am dabbling in a game of estimations, and so errors are compiled. *Further, I completely clear out my system tray prior to testing. If decimate does not do this, expect his score to be naturally lower.*

I don't do this ever, so that could explain why my score is lower. I'll be sure to do that and try again later. Thanks. Also, IObit's Game Booster would probably help as well. I stumbled across this little app while reading an issue of Computer Power User in a Borders store a while ago.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Do you have doom3 for a timedemo? I hate these bench programs they're skewed by the drivers. Aquamark was a good one though.

No, but I'll be sure to look it up.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 
I don't do this ever, so that could explain why my score is lower. I'll be sure to do that and try again later. Thanks. Also, IObit's Game Booster would probably help as well. I stumbled across this little app while reading an issue of Computer Power User in a Borders store a while ago.

Bah, just give it the 3 fingered salute and wipe out the unneeded processes.


----------



## Blitz6804

So essentially, it is a third-party version of AMD Fusion. Either Game Booster or Fusion would be more thorough than me, I only kill processes until my systray is clear. There is still a LOT of fat running in Vista. (I am over 100 processes on a fresh boot.)

Hueristic: For the really lazy *cough cough* me *cough cough* you can give it a thumb-finger salute. Put your thumb on the CTRL+SHFT and let your middle finger find the ESC.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 

Nice job man, How hard was it getting the epoxy off? +rep


Thanks








Surprisingly, it wasn't very hard at all. Although, I thought I had cut off one of the pins







. But I put a dab of solder on the tip of my iron and dabbed it in there, connected the 2 pins, tested for continuity, and I was off and running. The whole process took me less than 5 minutes including scraping off the epoxy. I didn't scrape all of it off, just what I needed to expose the pins.

I becoming pretty good at this


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
The HD 2900 XT performs slightly better than an HD 3870 in most situations, and as such, I would assume that to be the case here too. As such, he should be out performing my past HD 3850 setup by around 5% or so. From here on out, the rest of my post is mostly speculation.

Blitz, I think that's about right. My 3850 with my Opteron 170 @ 3Ghz brought in a score of almost 10k.

To be honest though I don't rely on 3DMark when it comes to gaming. Don't get me wrong numbers are great for comparisons but I just don't see it being a huge deal. If my games play fine then that's all that matters









BlackOmega, wow another SLI unlock. Great job


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Bah, just give it the 3 fingered salute and wipe out the unneeded processes.


----------



## Blitz6804

Done channeling Joe there thlnk3r? Truth be told, I do not compare my rig to others for my own personal benefit (but it is sometimes helpful in diagnoses) but I do often bench against myself to see if the change I did was beneficial.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Heh, thlnk3r's not channeling me.

He's just being smart about things, methinks.


----------



## Blitz6804

Great minds think alike?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I'll take that, yes.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Done channeling Joe there thlnk3r? Truth be told, I do not compare my rig to others for my own personal benefit (but it is sometimes helpful in diagnoses) but I do often bench against myself to see if the change I did was beneficial.

Blitz, matter of fact Joe and I have the same opinion on quite a few things









But yes it is a helpful tool when it comes to diagnosing a video card issue.


----------



## Blitz6804

And it is surprisingly good for rooting out an unstable overclock. If you increase your speed by a couple of megahertz and your score goes down, you likely need more voltage. I have then taken that identical clock and put it through Orthos and passed, put it through S&M and got a failure. Increased the voltage a nudge, the 3DMark06 went up and S&M was aokay. Granted, this nice "perk" only works when you are on the VERY hairy edge of stability. If you like to increase your HTT by more than one or two at a time, it is worthless for that purpose.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, wow another SLI unlock. Great job









Thanks you sir









Well I'm going to stick my other GSO's in it and get it folding.

On a side note, I put my DK on this rig and man what a difference a lapped surface makes. Idle according to coretemp 24/27. Which I don't get how it is even possible as my room temperature 26*C, and case temp is higher than that.







perhaps my thermometer is off.


----------



## Blitz6804

No software probe is 100% accurate. I am always tempted to try getting ahold of a good remote probe thermometer and taping it to the side of the IHS just to see what is going on.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
No software probe is 100% accurate. I am always tempted to try getting ahold of a good remote probe thermometer and taping it to the side of the IHS just to see what is going on.

I'm thinking more that the thermometer I am using is off. I want to get one of those infrared ones. But I'd like to get a nice, accurate, digital thermometer. I have been using a digital cooking one, but I highly doubt its very accurate.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I think Omega ought to be dubbed Omega Supreme, king of Ultra-D SLI Mods!


----------



## thlnk3r

*Yes I would like (1) Omega Supreme please*


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I think Omega ought to be dubbed Omega Supreme, king of Ultra-D SLI Mods!




















Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


*Yes I would like (1) Omega Supreme please*












Would you like anchovies on that?


----------



## BlackOmega

Since I got both of my folding rigs up and running I wanted to see if there was a significant temperature difference between having a lapped NB heat sink and an unlapped one.
Well come to find out that the lapped NB heat sink (42*C) is ~10*C cooler than the unlapped one (52*C). Since the rigs are setup almost identically this makes for a good comparison.

I think I'll have to lap all of my NB's now.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


No software probe is 100% accurate. I am always tempted to try getting ahold of a good remote probe thermometer and taping it to the side of the IHS just to see what is going on.


next post.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I'm thinking more that the thermometer I am using is off. I want to get one of those infrared ones. But I'd like to get a nice, accurate, digital thermometer. I have been using a digital cooking one, but I highly doubt its very accurate.


I just bought a cheap one from harbor freight for $10. I'ts off a few degrees but it is accurate enough to set your offset. I've been using it while re-flowing with the heat gun and it does a pretty good job(for a $10 laser therm).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Since I got both of my folding rigs up and running I wanted to see if there was a significant temperature difference between having a lapped NB heat sink and an unlapped one.
Well come to find out that the lapped NB heat sink (42*C) is ~10*C cooler than the unlapped one (52*C). Since the rigs are setup almost identically this makes for a good comparison.

I think I'll have to lap all of my NB's now.






































Now I have to do mine. I hate you, you know.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
next post.

I just bought a cheap one from harbor freight for $10. I'ts off a few degrees but it is accurate enough to set your offset. I've been using it while re-flowing with the heat gun and it does a pretty good job(for a $10 laser therm).




































Now I have to do mine. I hate you, you know.



















I try to buy as many American made tools, or any products for that matter, as possible. Sure they're more expensive, but the quality is usually unsurpassed. Most of my tools, including my tool box is Snap-On. I have Mac & Matco too, but I like Snap-On better.

I'll have to check that thermometer @ HF out. Thanks for the heads-up.


----------



## decimator

I just ran Prime95 for about 25 minutes and the highest CPU temp I saw was 51*C at stock frequency. Time to overclock now







.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


I just bought a cheap one from harbor freight for $10. I'ts off a few degrees but it is accurate enough to set your offset. I've been using it while re-flowing with the heat gun and it does a pretty good job(for a $10 laser therm).


Hueristic, but even with that you're still only measuring the IHS temperature and not the "core" temperature correct? Surely the temperatures can't be both the same.

Good luck


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*











I try to buy as many American made tools, or any products for that matter, as possible. Sure they're more expensive, but the quality is usually unsurpassed. Most of my tools, including my tool box is Snap-On. I have Mac & Matco too, but I like Snap-On better.

I'll have to check that thermometer @ HF out. Thanks for the heads-up.










I buy all craftsman (hand tools) , Love them. Cheap american made and unsurpassed warranty. Most harbor freight tools are made in the us, they're just not name brand but work just fine..

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Hueristic, but even with that you're still only measuring the IHS temperature and not the "core" temperature correct? Surely the temperatures can't be both the same.

Good luck


Yes, but with some simple math and knowing the offset your all set.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Since I got both of my folding rigs up and running I wanted to see if there was a significant temperature difference between having a lapped NB heat sink and an unlapped one.
Well come to find out that the lapped NB heat sink (42*C) is ~10*C cooler than the unlapped one (52*C). Since the rigs are setup almost identically this makes for a good comparison.

I think I'll have to lap all of my NB's now.

Hey BO, If I were doing the side by side comparrison I would swop the NB coolers and see if the same holds true on different mobo's 10C temp drops just by being Lapped.







That's Fantastic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
I just bought a cheap one from harbor freight for $10. I'ts off a few degrees but it is accurate enough to set your offset. I've been using it while re-flowing with the heat gun and it does a pretty good job(for a $10 laser therm).

Good find for a cheap lazer temp reader. I will have to purchase one of these. Can you tell me the specific make and model so I can go to my local Harbor Freight and order one if they don't have in stock.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 



































Now I have to do mine. I hate you, you know.









Don't hate the palyer hate the game. lol


----------



## decimator

Ok, I reached 2.8 GHz, but there's one little hickup...my PWM temps went through the roof. Got all the way up to 80*C after running Prime95 for a bit







. My CPU hasn't topped 52*C yet...haven't had to increase vcore or decrease the multi so far...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Yes, but with some simple math and knowing the offset your all set.

Hueristic, good point









Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Since I got both of my folding rigs up and running I wanted to see if there was a significant temperature difference between having a lapped NB heat sink and an unlapped one.
Well come to find out that the lapped NB heat sink (42*C) is ~10*C cooler than the unlapped one (52*C). Since the rigs are setup almost identically this makes for a good comparison.

Omega Supreme, sorry I completely forgot to reply to your post.

Thank you for reporting your findings. That just goes to show that lapping really does improve temperatures. How did you manage on removing that square yellow pad from the chipset cooler?

Good luck


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 
Ok, I reached 2.8 GHz, but there's one little hickup...my PWM temps went through the roof. Got all the way up to 80*C after running Prime95 for a bit







. My CPU hasn't topped 52*C yet...haven't had to increase vcore or decrease the multi so far...

Decimate, what kind of airflow setup do you have in your case? You may have a dead spot of air near your PWM that is causing the high temperatures during full load....

Sorry for the double post

Good luck


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Decimate, what kind of airflow setup do you have in your case? You may have a dead spot of air near your PWM that is causing the high temperatures during full load....


This is definitely the problem because I have a massive CPU heatsink (Cooler Master Hyper 6+) that's directed upwards because it's impossible to screw the damn thing in if you face it toward the back of the case. It's ok, though, because there's a huge vent at the top of the Silverstone TJ09 case. This leaves the PWM, which sits next to the CPU socket on its left, in a bit of a dead spot...I'm considering flipping the rear case fan so that instead of sucking hot air out, it's blowing cold air in, but I loathe having to open my case up again...I guess I'll get around to it eventually.

For now, though, the PWM gets up to 81*C when running Prime95 but no more than 62*C when running 3D applications. I ran through 3DMark06 with the Opteron 185 at 2.8 GHz and came up with a score of 11202.

I think this is the end of the line as far as OC'ing goes without me having to go back into the case and shuffle a couple of things around to get that PWM some more cooling. On the bright side, there's plenty of room left in this Opteron. I'm pretty sure I can break 3.0 GHz easy as long as the RAM is able to keep up...

On a side note, I looked up PWM temps on the Abit website and this is what appeared:

Quote:



"PWM" is a circuit on mainboards to convert the voltage level from power supply unit to provide specific voltage to components (ex. Provide CPU with core voltage). We know that CPU could be the hottest component inside a PC system, and we always care about the heat dissipation of it. Actually, the PWM circuit is quite hot too; especially when CPU is at full loading, large current passes through the PWM circuit and was converted to necessary CPU core voltage. Some ABIT boards show "PWM temperature" on BIOS setup page and Windows hardware monitoring tool. This provides users possible hottest temperature inside the PC chassis, and check whether the air conditioning inside the chassis needs to be enhanced or not. When CPU works heavily, the CPU temperature could be around 60 degree C; nevertheless, *the PWM temperature may achieve 70 degree C or even higher; depends on the design of thermal convection. The safety limit of the PWM temperature is about 120 degree C, however, we strongly recommend improving the air flow and heat dissipation inside the PC chassis once it rises to 100 degree C.*


Er...so apparently my temps are fine?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Can you tell me the specific make and model so I can go to my local Harbor Freight and order one if they don't have in stock.


http://search.harborfreight.com/cpis...eter&Submit=Go
There's a few useful types here.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Don't hate the palyer hate the game. lol


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=Thermometer&Submit=Go
There's a few useful types here.
























































Thanks for the link. All I see is a $60.00 job marked down to $30.00 50% off FTW but still not $10.00


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 
Er...so apparently my temps are fine?

Decimate, if the information Abit is posting is correct then I would say YES you are fine. According to what they said you are 20C below the average limit which is probably good. Still though it wouldn't hurt to improve the airflow of that area in your case.

Good luck


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*











Thanks for the link. All I see is a $60.00 job marked down to $30.00 50% off FTW but still not $10.00










This is the one.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93983

That first link had 3 laser ones of varying quality. but the cheapo one is good enough for our uses. Weird thing is it is $13 online and the specs are different the the specs of the one I got. but it looks the same.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


This is the one.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93983

That first link had 3 laser ones of varying quality. but the cheapo one is good enough for our uses. Weird thing is it is $13 online and the specs are different the the specs of the one I got. but it looks the same.


Oh ok I saw that one and looked right past it not knowing what it was. I instantly wanted the gun type.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Decimate, if/when you get around to playing with fan orientations in your TJ09, try flipping the two top fans from exhaust to intake, and your CPU heatsink's fan to blow down (towards the video cards). This might seem really counter-intuitive, but I use the TJ09 as well and through a lot of testing of fan configurations, I discovered that using the two top-side fans as intakes dropped my load temperatures by about four degrees Celsius. That will also stimulate a lot of air movement in the PWM heatsinks' area, which should helpfully improve temperatures.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


I buy all craftsman (hand tools) , Love them. Cheap american made and unsurpassed warranty. Most harbor freight tools are made in the us, they're just not name brand but work just fine..


 Hand tools??What are those???







The only hand tools I actually use are wrenches. Everything else is pneumatic. It's truly amazing how much time you save by using air.

And craftsman tools are ok, but their wrenches aren't anywhere near as good as the snap ons. I have the flank drive ones. When I was a tech I couldn't take the risk of rounding off bolts which was really common with the craftsman ones. Not to mention they're longer and have a thinner shank than the craftsmans as well.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hey BO, If I were doing the side by side comparrison I would swop the NB coolers and see if the same holds true on different mobo's 10C temp drops just by being Lapped.







That's Fantastic


 Well the only difference between the 2 rigs is the CPU and RAM and the case that they're in. 
The one with the lapped NB is in my vento which has a considerably smaller front intake fan (90mm) and it blows parallel to the mobo. The other one is my coolermaster RC331 which has a 120mm fan blowing directly at the mobo & GPU's.
The other funny thing is that the GPUs' in my Vento are noticable cooler as well. ~68*C folding @ 100% vs 80*C in the CM RC331. I think when the foldathon is over I'm going to lap the NB on that one and replace the TIM on the other GPU.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Omega Supreme, sorry I completely forgot to reply to your post.

Thank you for reporting your findings. That just goes to show that lapping really does improve temperatures. How did you manage on removing that square yellow pad from the chipset cooler?

Good luck


 It's cool








And I'm not sure which metal pad you're referring to, the dried up TIM or the thin foam tape square?
The dried TIM, I actually used sandpaper. I scraped as much off as I could without gouging the cooler. Then proceeded to lap it.
The foam tape comes up rather easily. Just a little of finger pressure starts to peel it up, then you simply grab a hold of it and gently but consistently pull it and it will peel right off. You can actually reuse it if you're so inclined. I actually have 2 of them stuck to a piece of glass on my desk. I just tape off the pins on the NB and call it a day.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Hand tools??What are those???







The only hand tools I actually use are wrenches. Everything else is pneumatic. It's truly amazing how much time you save by using air.

Yeah, umm I don't have any pneumatic tools.















http://img263.imageshack.us/i/backy.jpg/
<@#$%@#%$ stinking OCN won't let me upload again







>

BTW like the Custom Line I ran through the wall?









Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
And craftsman tools are ok, but their wrenches aren't anywhere near as good as the snap ons. ... When I was a tech I couldn't take the risk of rounding off bolts which was really common with the craftsman ones. Not to mention they're longer and have a thinner shank than the craftsmans as well.

That is why You use 6 sided.







I bought most of mine in like 85 and still love them to this day, so why go with a outrageously priced snap-on or mac when the ones I have work perfect as it is?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
The one with the lapped NB is in my vento

I'm thinking your seating might have been bad or your tim messed up to get that kind of a drop now.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
And I'm not sure which metal pad you're referring to, the dried up TIM or the thin foam tape square?

BlackOmega, the chipset cooler was from a DFI board correct? The chipset cooler on my SLI-DR had a square yellow pad that covered the little IC's that surrounded the actual core. I guess yours didn't have that


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Yeah, umm I don't have any pneumatic tools.















http://img263.imageshack.us/i/backy.jpg/
<@#$%@#%$ stinking OCN won't let me upload again







>

BTW like the Custom Line I ran through the wall?










 nice







Thats a good size compressor. Whats the max PSI that thing pumps out? The one I have now only does 150 PSI line pressure, I'd like to get a 2 phase thats capable of 200PSI. I took the regulator out of my old ingersoll rand air gun so the more line pressure I have the more powerful it is/









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


That is why You use 6 sided.







I bought most of mine in like 85 and still love them to this day, so why go with a outrageously priced snap-on or mac when the ones I have work perfect as it is?


 I still have a bunch of my dads craftsmans that are from the 80's, and while they're decent, they're no comparison to the snap ons. With the flank drive I can snap bolts off with the open end side







, Since I bought those I haven't had to buy line wrenches. Not to mention they're considerably longer than the craftsmans so you can put a lot more torque on them. 
I have broken several Craftsman tools, wrenches, sockets, even a socket wrench (1/2").

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


I'm thinking your seating might have been bad or your tim messed up to get that kind of a drop now.










 No the TIM was applied properly and they're seated correctly. The contact with the highly grooved unlapped surface is pretty poor I would have to imagine. I am not at all surprised that the temps are that bad. And even though those heat sinks are aluminum it still took quite some time to get it smooth. Mind you I started with 220









And another thing that I have to say about that vento case, even though the front intake fan is small, so far that case has had the best mobo cooling of any case I have used to date. Better than my CM centurion 590. I'll have to do an experiment and swap the boards between the cases and see if the temps improve. That will have to wait until my A&P final is over though. I have to study pretty much the whole book in a matter of a week and a half.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, the chipset cooler was from a DFI board correct? The chipset cooler on my SLI-DR had a square yellow pad that covered the little IC's that surrounded the actual core. I guess yours didn't have that










 Yeah the 1 sided foam tape square thats about 1/4" wide. Yeah all 3 of mine have them, although 2 at the moment do not. 
And yeah removing that thing is pretty easy, like I mentioned before, simply roll one of the corners to the center and get a corner to peel up. Then with gentle and slow, yet consistent pulling, that square will come right up. And it is reusable. when I get home I'll take a pic of the squares just to be sure we're talking about the same thing.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hueristic, by the looks of your pics I would be inclined to say it almost looks like you may have a H2O project going on there.

BO. I like Matco but they are no Snap on. They all carry a great warranty no receipt required but for the money you can't go wrong w/a 6pnt Cranftsman. Sure You may Brake a crasftsman quicker then a snap on but lets see you find a snap on truck on a sunday when your working on your car. Sears is open on the week ends.









I'm still interested to see if you get the same 10 deg drop after lapping the other chip set cooler.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 

BO. I like Matco but they are no Snap on. They all carry a great warranty no receipt required but for the money you can't go wrong w/a 6pnt Cranftsman. Sure You may Brake a crasftsman quicker then a snap on but lets see you find a snap on truck on a sunday when your working on your car. Sears is open on the week ends.









I'm still interested to see if you get the same 10 deg drop after lapping the other chip set cooler.

Well thats the thing, the Snap on one won't break. When I worked as a tech, time is money, so if I had to stop what I'm doing and run over to Sears to exchange it I would use up probably an hour of my time. Thats 1 less hour that I'd be working and that much less I'd make.

And the Craftsman wrenches while being decent they're not that great (the Craftsman professional series are a lot better though). The open side is pretty much worthless. I bet they would round off 9 out of 10 bolts. And there are certain spots where you will not be able to put the closed end side of any wrench no matter how small or thin the wall might be.
If you're not a professional tech and time doesn't mean much then yes they're fine. But for any pro, they will not cut it. Not to mention all of your tools are tax deductible







.

I'll lap another one of those NB coolers probably in about 2 weeks.

And another comparison, the unlapped NB cooler on my CFX also runs really hot. About the same temp as my non lapped ultra-D, ~58*C. So they're both right on par with each other.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Not to mention all of your tools are tax deductible







.

I'll lap another one of those NB coolers probably in about 2 weeks.

And another comparison, the unlapped NB cooler on my CFX also runs really hot. About the same temp as my non lapped ultra-D, ~58*C. So they're both right on par with each other.


 That's cool if you own a house and have deductables. I'm a looser w/out any real property. I guess it's time to listen to my Rich Dad Poor Dad CD roms.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
That's cool if you own a house and have deductables. I'm a looser w/out any real property. I guess it's time to listen to my Rich Dad Poor Dad CD roms.









I'm not sure if it has to do with a house or not. I believe that if its your profession. So if you need the tools to do your job, they're tax deductible. I don't think it matter if you own a house or not.

And you can have tax deductions without owning a house period. I'm not positive on this but I recall a while ago that the rent you pay may be tax deductible as well.

Perhaps, Blitz knows more about this.


----------



## N2Gaming

Perhaps I could get a lot of money back from the gov but w/o receipts I'd be a up creek w/o a paddle.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Perhaps I could get a lot of money back from the gov but *w/o receipts* I'd be a up creek w/o a paddle.










I'd have to say you're right, unless you paid for them with a credit card. Then you might be able to dig up the old receipts. BUt at this point would it be worth it? I believe they only give you a percentage of the value anyway.


----------



## decimator

Well, after getting raped by Prime95 more times than I can count, I finally squeezed a few extra MHz out of this CPU...









And joe, if you could add me to the list on the front page, that'd be sweet







.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


Well, after getting raped by Prime95 more times than I can count, I finally squeezed a few extra MHz out of this CPU...









And joe, if you could add me to the list on the front page, that'd be sweet







.


 Holy :turd:!







It needed 1.48v to get to 2900









Nice achievement by the way.








do you know the stepping of your chip?


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I'd have to say you're right, unless you paid for them with a credit card. Then you might be able to dig up the old receipts. BUt at this point would it be worth it? I believe they only give you a percentage of the value anyway.


Good points about the tax deductions.

I too have alot of tools around (Well, maybe not so many by now) and while I have some Snap-On stuff, mostly went for Craftsman since it was a $$ issue and didn't like the feeling of having a bill for hundreds of $$'s for perhaps a handful of tools. 
Mac tools were a little cheaper and just as good as Snap-On with the same warranty. Biggest thing I didn't like about Snap-On was the guys selling them. They had a tendency to be hesitant about honoring the warranty but the Mac guys never did this. You brought them a busted tool, he'd simply give you another - Simple as that. Cornwell was another brand of tools that I've had good luck with too along with the folks selling them. 
I will though say I have a 1/2 inch Blue Point air wrench (Sold by Snap-On) that's well over 15 years old and still going strong.







Also there's the simple fact some things you need you can only get from Snap-On, Mac or other mobile vendors. 
Craftsman doesn't have as many specialty tools and is really for the guys who do stuff at home in comparison to some of the stuff you can get into in a shop.

Overall, Craftsman tools have served me well and I didn't have the pressure of being in the shop all the time.
As for what I did, I was a Service tech on the road and could stop in wherever needed to pickup stuff as required on my part and that made things easier. Always had two or even three of everything just in case since in the field, you're more or less on your own.
Worked for a Nissan forklift dealer and for a Clark forklift dealer and we did more than just lifts. Bobcats, Tennant scrubbers, front-end loaders, if you can name it, we did it related to this kind of machinery. Also worked once for a Ford dealership but that was years ago.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Oopsies. decimate, my apologies.









You are now on the roster!







We're glad to have you here.


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Holy :turd:!







It needed 1.48v to get to 2900









Nice achievement by the way.








do you know the stepping of your chip?


Yeah, that does seem pretty high, doesn't it? Sorry, I don't know the stepping of my chip, but for some reason I just couldn't run through Prime95 without upping the vcore that high. I tried raising NB voltages and HTT voltage before raising the vcore, but to no avail so I dialed those numbers back down and just went with the vcore increase.


----------



## Blitz6804

I will add you to the offsite when I get home.

In my experience, AMD processors tend to need lower voltages for lower multipliers. That is, a processor running at 11x273 should require less voltage than one running at 13x231. At least, this has been the case for all processors I have owned. This is why I think upwardly-unlocked multipliers are a little worthless.

BlackOmega / N2Gaming: Work expenses are generally tax deductible, however, I have never been able to claim any. Whenever I compute my deductions, it is better off for me to just take the standardized deduction of $5400. Then again, I have little-to-no income to report.

All: And now I depart for the doctor's office; hopefully it is nothing serious.


----------



## decimator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
In my experience, AMD processors tend to need lower voltages for lower multipliers. That is, a processor running at 11x273 should require less voltage than one running at 13x231. At least, this has been the case for all processors I have owned. This is why I think upwardly-unlocked multipliers are a little worthless.

This makes sense. I tested my mobo and I went all the way up to 260 HTT without problems. I didn't go higher because I was running a memory divider at the time, but I'm pretty sure it can go a lot higher. I think I'm gonna play around a little more with a lower CPU multi and see what happens...

Oh, and I hope everything goes well at the doctor's.


----------



## Hueristic

Haven't been up to getting the keyboard for awhile so been multi-quoteing and this time rather than saving it in a text file to get to later (As by the time I get to it the info ends up being moot) I went to quote and all the multi's are gone.









Well Here's what I remember, BO Tool talk is cool I'm a DIY since a child (man of the house) and I could talk tools forever but I don't want to derail the thread more than we've already done.

Blitz hope the Visit goes well.

AFA claiming on tax returns goes, I could claim tons of stuff includeing laundry bills in the past and still did not reach my deductible (Being single is like grabbing your ankles).

Decimate, As Blitz and BO have stated you should be able to get that OC with less Voltage. Keep plugging. Looking good though!









Thinkr and Jo, I think you guys said something but I usually just ignore you 2!























Edit: Woops, Sorry N2...Um you rock dude!









HEY, I know this will be of interest to alot of people (at least a few here I know of). I told the guy to start a thread in the [email protected] section.

FOLDING with SLI Enabled!!!!


----------



## Blitz6804

Wow, Windows 7 lets you run [email protected] on two cores without disabling SLI/Crossfire; WIN! I am unsure if Vista permits it, but I am dubious... maybe I should test it? I know you can fold a single core despite Crossfire being enabled.

What is sad is that one of those GPUs put out more PPD than I am capable of doing on all my rigs simultaneously.

The "ideal" configuration to run for a 939 rig if you can do it is 12x250 with a DDR400 memory divider. This gives you a 3000 MHz CPU and DDR-500 1:1.

In other news, decimate is now a member of the official off-site roster.


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks Hueristic









blitz good luck at the doctor. I'll have to try the 12x 250 at ddr400 in the near future.


----------



## decimator

Well, I increased the HTT and decreased the CPU multi as well as the vcore. Currently running Prime95 in-place large FTT's at 264 MHz x 11 = 2904 MHz @ 1.45 volts and everything seems to be running ok. I know it's only a couple hundredths of a volt decrease but every little bit counts, I guess. I tried decreasing the vcore some more but Prime95 flipped out. Guess this chip likes the juice...









I want the big 3.0 bad, though...


----------



## Blitz6804

If the temperatures permit it, there is no reason why you cannot try a fuzz higher to get to the 3.0 GHz mark... maybe 10x300 DDR-333 will be the way to go. (3.0 GHz with DDR-500; DDR-266 will yield DDR-400.)


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


If the temperatures permit it, there is no reason why you cannot try a fuzz higher to get to the 3.0 GHz mark... maybe 10x300 DDR-333 will be the way to go. (3.0 GHz with DDR-500; DDR-266 will yield DDR-400.)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


Well, I increased the HTT and decreased the CPU multi as well as the vcore. Currently running Prime95 in-place large FTT's at 264 MHz x 11 = 2904 MHz @ 1.45 volts and everything seems to be running ok. I know it's only a couple hundredths of a volt decrease but every little bit counts, I guess. I tried decreasing the vcore some more but Prime95 flipped out. Guess this chip likes the juice.


Decimate, is there any options in the bios related to "Spread Spectrum"? If so please disable them. A pretty obvious question here but did you disabled Cool'n'Quiet? 
I would say try adjusting your ram sub-timings and other settings to the "T" but it's ValueRAM. There is hardly any documentation out there for valueram. When I mention "other settings" I'm referring to (for example), Idle Cycle Limit, Burst Length, MTRR Mapping ect ect ect. Basically the optimum timings/settings. Are you currently running a command rate of 1T or 2T?

Good luck


----------



## decimator

Cool N' Quiet has been disabled. I don't think I saw any "Spread Spectrum" in the BIOS. The RAM is currently running on a divider of DDR266, so at 264 MHz HTT, it's running well below DDR400. Command rate is 1T and timings are 3-3-3-8, so I'm pretty sure my RAM is running stable unless Kingston binned some terrible terrible chips that can't even run below their rated speed. I don't think it's my mobo either because i've gotten well over 280 MHz HTT when my CPU multi was lowered to its minimum.

I was able to boot into Windows at 280 MHz x 10.5 (2.94 GHz) @ 1.425 volts with 3x HTT multi but Prime95 told me to piss off. Tried 1.45 vcore, same thing. I'm wary of increasing vcore any more because if I do my PWM temps will breach the threshold. I tried increasing NB voltage and HTT voltage as well as a combination of them, but those didn't help so I set them back to default. Also, to be honest, I think my PSU may be holding me back...powering 2 2900XT's and a 150 GB Velociraptor isn't doing it any favors when I go to increase vcore...The system has shut down several times upon increasing voltages, so I really think I've reached its limit...


----------



## Hueristic

you need to loosen mem timings when trying to find your highest htt.


----------



## decimator

Even if they're running on a divider?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 
Also, to be honest, I think my PSU may be holding me back...powering 2 2900XT's and a 150 GB Velociraptor isn't doing it any favors when I go to increase vcore...The system has shut down several times upon increasing voltages, so I really think I've reached its limit...

Decimate, for testing purposes remove one of the 2900XT's to see if you can reproduce this problem (shutdowns after increasing Vcore). Your PCP&C has 60A total on the 12volt rail. That is quite a bit in my opinion but then again the 2900XT is a power hungry card









Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 
Even if they're running on a divider?

That's correct. Relax the sub-timings and re-test. Are you running 1T or 2T command rate?

Good luck


----------



## decimator

Ok. I'm running a 1T command rate right now. Should I loosen it to 2T?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Decimate, for testing purposes remove one of the 2900XT's to see if you can reproduce this problem (shutdowns after increasing Vcore). Your PCP&C has 60A total on the 12volt rail. That is quite a bit in my opinion but then again the 2900XT is a power hungry card.

I don't think that should be an issue unless his PSU is going out. As his PSU is the same as mine (amperage wise, which ran 2 x 2900Xt's just fine with a x2 4000+ 90nm)

The only difference is I have a Quad Rail (a single 12v line split up into 4 separate lines) and he has a single rail ( 1 12v line going out to every direction as needed)


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 
Ok. I'm running a 1T command rate right now. Should I loosen it to 2T?

I don't see why you'd have to. Although it might help. I was under the impression you only run 2T command rate when you have all 4 DIMM's occupied.

And yeah your PSU should be able to run your rig w/o issue. Unless, as mentioned before, its on its way out. but even if it is, PCP&C psu's have a 5 year warranty.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
I don't think that should be an issue unless his PSU is going out. As his PSU is the same as mine (amperage wise, which ran 2 x 2900Xt's just fine with a x2 4000+ 90nm)

Tator, good point but for testing purposes it would be nice to know just so we can rule out a failing/faulty PSU being the culprit. You never know...

Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 
Ok. I'm running a 1T command rate right now. Should I loosen it to 2T?

Decimate, sure give it go. I won't hurt anything to find out.

Come on guys whatever happened to process of elimination. Test test test









Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I was under the impression you only run 2T command rate when you have all 4 DIMM's occupied.

BlackOmega, I've had a few problems with 2 DIMMS at 1T. I had issues with my old PC3200LL Corsair set and my G.SKILL F1-3200PHU1 set.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Come on guys whatever happened to process of elimination. Test test test









Ah, a man after my own heart.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Ah, a man after my own heart.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

That's right, baby.

S939 Club is a love fest.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 

Come on guys whatever happened to process of elimination. Test test test









Getting lazy in our old age









Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, I've had a few problems with 2 DIMMS at 1T. I had issues with my old PC3200LL Corsair set and my G.SKILL F1-3200PHU1 set.

Hmmm.....







that's interesting. Even my kingstons that hate anything other than 2T run1T just fine with only 2 of them.
But I suppose all of the RAM I have used has been deemed "high performance" and all have had good IC's on them (even the kingstons).


----------



## Hueristic

Been working all day on my kitchen light and backs been bad, so while I wait for my meds to kick back in made a group.

I Think you guys will like it.







It took 10 minutes to figure out how to post in it! The darn link to post is the same color as the background!









http://www.overclock.net/groups/retro-rulz.html

Hmm ran out of rants. for the group.







I'm sure you guys can think of some!









Edit:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, I've had a few problems with 2 DIMMS at 1T. I had issues with my old PC3200LL Corsair set and my G.SKILL F1-3200PHU1 set.

Yep, THX for reminding me I have to do that RMA.







I hate rmaing.


----------



## decimator

I joined







.

Also, thanks everybody for the tips. My RAM is currently running at 3-4-4-8 2T on a DDR266 divider while my system is running Prime95 at 285 HTT x 10 with 1.375 vcore and HTT multi at 3x. Had to up both the NB 1.8 voltage and the NB 1.2 voltage to get it to last more than 30 seconds of in-place large FTT's in Prime95...


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 
I joined







.

Also, thanks everybody for the tips. My RAM is currently running at 3-4-4-8 2T on a DDR266 divider while my system is running Prime95 at 285 HTT x 10 with 1.375 vcore and HTT multi at 3x. Had to up both the NB 1.8 voltage and the NB 1.2 voltage to get it to last more than 30 seconds of in-place large FTT's in Prime95...

That's sounding better. How are your temps?


----------



## decimator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
That's sounding better. How are your temps?

They're good. The CPU isn't topping 52*C and the NB is about the same temp...which might be a bad thing...but uGuru doesn't have it warning me until 75*C or so, so I might just be overreacting.

Prime95 just finished 1024k self-test on both cores.

EDIT: illegal sumout on core 0...back to the BIOS...


----------



## Hueristic

Here's some good reading guys.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&ct=re...lS-4009o1ygCow


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 

http://www.overclock.net/groups/retro-rulz.html


Joined, and posted!

Twice!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Here's some good reading guys.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&ct=re...lS-4009o1ygCow

Hueristic, thank you for sharing. Very interesting


----------



## ciff1

Trying to find maximum cpu clock speed currently at 2850 mhz, 1.425volts bios, memory on 1/2(100) divider 2t 2.8volts, htt bus 855 multi x(3) load temps 57c after passing 15mins small fft's prime 95. Should i call it a day or go any further? Rig in sig.
Psu 12v rail at 11.83v - 11.77v idle drops to 11.65v under full load.


----------



## decimator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ciff1* 
Trying to find maximum cpu clock speed currently at 2850 mhz, 1.425volts bios, memory on 1/2(100) divider 2t 2.8volts, htt bus 855 multi x(3) load temps 57c after passing 15mins small fft's prime 95. Should i call it a day or go any further? Rig in sig.
Psu 12v rail at 11.83v - 11.77v idle drops to 11.65v under full load.

Hey, you're in the same boat I'm in







. I'm currently running Prime95 for a 2910 MHz OC.

I dunno, I wouldn't settle for anything less than the highest stable overclock, so I would try and go higher. What's your HTT at right now? Never mind, I did the math and you're at 285 HTT...Just try and push it as high as it will go while keeping your temps in check.


----------



## ciff1

htt at 855.2, multi x 3, fsb 285 x 10 ram on 2t 3,3,2,8 2.8v 1/2(100) divider so as not to stress memory controller . My oc currently does'nt take into account memory or motherboard limits yet! Still to test for these. Using guide from forum.


----------



## decimator

I think you're doing things out of order. If you're trying to find you're CPU's limit, it's easier if you find your mobo's HTT limit first.


----------



## ciff1

Ok. Max htt - lower cpu multi from 10 to say 6 or 7 set ram to 100 1/2 divider. Set ldt chipset volts to max them increase htt/fsb until it fails back down until boots then multiply this by 0.95 then this figure is max?
Take it this is right idea?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Joined, and posted!

Twice!


























Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Hueristic, thank you for sharing. Very interesting



















Quote:


Originally Posted by *ciff1* 
Ok. Max htt - lower cpu multi from 10 to say 6 or 7 set ram to 100 1/2 divider. Set ldt chipset volts to max them increase htt/fsb until it fails back down until boots then multiply this by 0.95 then this figure is max?
Take it this is right idea?

try 8x keep your timeings loose and find your max htt. Wow I can't get my system to boot with 100mem! Lol


----------



## ciff1

had memory on 2/3 but got to 270fsb x 10 ram at 180.1 but would not boot so lowered to 100 1/2 booted first time. Will take advice and try 8 x multi. timings at 3,3 2,8.


----------



## thlnk3r

Ciff, just so you don't get confused HTT is the reference clock speed or fsb. HT is the Hypertransport speed (ie. 855Mhz).

Just that I'd throw that in there, I didn't want you getting confused









Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ciff1* 
had memory on 2/3 but got to 270fsb x 10 ram at 180.1 but would not boot so lowered to 100 1/2 booted first time. Will take advice and try 8 x multi. timings at 3,3 2,8.

Try 3-3-3-8 timings,they might prove to be a bit more stable.

ALL: I've often wondered why max out the LDT voltage? I have yet needed a reason to do so. Even with my one Ultra-D that can hit 400 reference clock.


----------



## decimator

I've left my LDT voltage at stock. Whenever I try and raise it Prime95 still returns errors, so I haven't seen a need to raise it thus far. I've been bumping NB (both 1.8 and 1.2) voltages and vcore up like crazy, though...


----------



## BlackOmega

Upping NB is only required (in my experience) with high reference clocks. On my Asus (A8N32dlx), I had to increase ~272 ref. clock, with my DFI's I can take them well over 300 before any voltage increase is required. Hell, on one of my ultra-d's it only needed 1 voltage bump to achieve 400 ref clock.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Try 3-3-3-8 timings,they might prove to be a bit more stable.

ALL: I've often wondered why max out the LDT voltage? I have yet needed a reason to do so. Even with my one Ultra-D that can hit 400 reference clock.

That's cause there's tons of sites that always say "Then I even maxed the volts" in their OC reviews.









before the days of active cooling I used to swap out the cystal and lower the voltage to run cooler.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Here's some good reading guys.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&ct=re...lS-4009o1ygCow

EPIC WIN! (+REP)

I thought the rules for tRFC on DDR2 were different than those on DDR. This is why I might have been having some instability issues with my RAM. Great find, thanks.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
That's cause there's tons of sites that always say "Then I even maxed the volts" in their OC reviews.









before the days of active cooling I used to swap out the cystal and lower the voltage to run cooler.

Wow, I get to quote myself! I shouldn't post at night while my sleep meds are kicking in.









So BO looks like I misread your Comment on the LDT voltage. I was unaware that DFI boards have this option (thought you were just talking Vcore: Too many new fangled acronyms for me to keep up with/ageoff). So I did some digging (Yeah googled







) and It looks to me like DFI decided that some chips were suffering from a vdrop in HTT voltage when OCing. And as a result decided to give the option to raise the LDT(HT die portion voltage?) for better stability rather than bumping the entire chips Vcore (Is this on all DFI's or just the Specialty ones). This sounds pretty good if it can be done (I really don't know how the K8's get their voltage to which portion of the die) But it would seem to me that if your OC was unstable then you should try raising your LDT (first) rather than your Vcore. That should in theory provide stability for a higher HTT without the excess heat of raising the entire core. Now I'm just making a guess here but from reading a few posts by others this looks to be a possibility.

OK, was not happy with not knowing what this setting was so did some actual searching (googled *and checked more than 2 links*) and it seems that LDT (







lightning data transfer) is just the old way of refering to HTT.









Quote:

An interconnection standard introduced by AMD that allows for fast data transfers among the Northbridge part of a chipset, the PCI bus(es), and the Southbridge part. In a multiprocessing machine the LDT bus can transfer data between sets of two processors. AMD now calls this technology HyperTransport.
So according to this the LDT setting will increase the voltage on the NB that control's the data lines to the southbridge). Still seems like a good idea to bump it when you hit a wall on your HTT and then lower it again if it doesn't provide stability. So did DFI just never rename this setting in their bios? Or do they keep it named that so as to differentiate between the base NB Vcore and the HTT bus controller? Now I'm starting to think I might look into a DFI in the future (I've been pissed at them since their PII boards didn't have voltage detection circuitry and blew up a CPU on me (was a Kalmath board only







).

Quote:

edit: did some testing with a different CPU(venice 3200+). same results. LDT at 1.2 = 2913 in 3dmark05. LDT at 1.5 = 3250. Unbelievable.
------------
no i was turning voltages down to reduce heat. to find out what voltages my system was stable at. well i notice for a while my 01 scores were down and my framerate was down in certain games. this bugged me for a while. well i went back in and turne voltage back up on ldt and bam my scores are back
*OK after re-reading this mess I'm not happy with it. I'n no expert on 939's to begin with and Have no working knowledge of the DFI's in particular so would one of you DFI/939 Guru's do a better job of explaining this: I'm really inteseted in finding out where this voltage is applied (I think it's on the CPU mem controller)*

:moved after edit:
Forgot why I posted this. LOL, might have to do with another conversation going on.

Also in the old days before Pentium/K5 (IIRC, Hmm I think the original Pentium 66mhz was 5v <yeah it ran soo hot that's when the voltages started to drop>) cpu's were 5v and by extension Overvolted and HOT as well as not sinked or active cooled. Actually it was felt that needing external cooling was a sign of a bad batch. Only Top of the line Mini's and above were cooled. I think the first desktop CPU I ever saw with a HS was a 386sx16mhz (times they be a changeing).

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
EPIC WIN! (+REP)

I thought the rules for tRFC on DDR2 were different than those on DDR. This is why I might have been having some instability issues with my RAM. Great find, thanks.

NP man It was news to me (been fighting with some Crucial ballistics:looks like I have a notoriously bad batch number) and thought you guys would find it useful.


----------



## Blitz6804

Unfortunately, even tweaking that setting I cannot get my RAM to work any better... apparently, GSkill does not give you a 5% overclocking headroom but instead, a scant 1.5%. I will need to lower my divider to increase my CPU, but see below.

I was under the impression that "LDT Voltage" was the hyper transport voltage, not the HTT voltage. I could be wrong however.

Question for all: if my PC boots and is stable with one RAM divider, will not post with the next divider slower, and is stable again with the divider below that, could that be indicative of bad RAM? All other settings other than the divider are static.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hueristic, I think most of the Lanparty series/model mobo's are geared more towards enthusiast's & overclocking, while other DFI series mobo's like the Infinity series is more geared towards budget builds w/less features and cheaper hardware. I don't know a whole lot about the LDT voltage. I guess I never got that involved in my overclocks. Plus I was always to scared to start upping the voltages on settings I don't understand.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I was under the impression that "LDT Voltage" was the hyper transport voltage, not the HTT voltage. I could be wrong however.

Blitz, yeah you're correct about the LDT (Lightning Data Transfer or Hypertransport) Voltage. It's a separate voltage control from the reference clock speed.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Question for all: if my PC boots and is stable with one RAM divider, will not post with the next divider slower, and is stable again with the divider below that, could that be indicative of bad RAM? All other settings other than the divider are static.

Good question, that is definitely a weird one. What kind of IC's came with this set? Perhaps the memory doesn't like that "next slower divider"? Strange...

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 

I was under the impression that "LDT Voltage" was the hyper transport voltage, not the HTT voltage. I could be wrong however.

This is correct. LDT Voltage (HT Voltage) overvolts supposedly improve the motherboard/chipset's ability to run at higher than default speeds (i.e., higher than 1000MHz/2000MHz double-pumped). On my ASUS A8N32-SLI Deluxe, where I run the HT bus at 1160MHz (290MHz x 4), I did not enable HT Overvolt (not that the BIOS supports granular voltage overvoltage control like DFI BIOSes do) to keep the system stable.

I would imagine each board to react in its own individual manner, so if you choose to run at higher-than-stock speeds on the HT bus you have to test the effects of LDT/HT overvolts.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Question for all: if my PC boots and is stable with one RAM divider, will not post with the next divider slower, and is stable again with the divider below that, could that be indicative of bad RAM? All other settings other than the divider are static.

I've seen this happen with lots of boards, actually. This is more a quirk of the motherboard/BIOS (or both), and not of the RAM installed. This is one reason why certain boards (actually, this tends to happen a lot with DFIs) have so many different BIOS revisions: The revisions are tailored to cater to certain RAM ICs (to facilitate RAM OCing/tweaking).


----------



## Blitz6804

So would it be an issue with the RAM or with the BIOS? This board used to run that divider fine with the other set of RAM I had.

As to the Hypertransport: one bump in voltage, I think about 50 mV, permitted me to run 1250 MHz.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
So would it be an issue with the RAM or with the BIOS? This board used to run that divider fine with the other set of RAM I had.

Depends what side of the tracks you're sitting on, seems to me. If the old RAM ran that divider fine, but your new RAM doesn't, assuming you haven't changed BIOS versions then it's a matter of perspective.

Clearly, though, the old RAM was more "compatible" (for lack of a better term) with that BIOS version.


----------



## decimator

Well, this suck







. My Opteron 185 refuses to run at 2.9 GHz with anything less than 1.48 vcore (it's actually set to 1.45 in the BIOS, but there's a bit of overvoltage and I tried the 1.425 setting without success). I tried every combination of multi's (both CPU and HTT) and voltages (NB and LDT) and this thing just will not run stably at less than 1.48 vcore...


----------



## Blitz6804

Joe: I have changed BIOS version. Both RAMs are G.Skill, but one is set for a higher maximum divider than the other.

Decimate: That sometimes happens. Personally, I think 2.8 GHz is more than enough most of the time.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Joe: I have changed BIOS version. Both RAMs are G.Skill, but one is set for a higher maximum divider than the other.


Blitz, do you know if the IC's are the same or different? What is the model number/part number on both kits?

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Joe: I have changed BIOS version. Both RAMs are G.Skill, but one is set for a higher maximum divider than the other.

Have you tried your new RAM on both BIOS versions?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
This is correct. LDT Voltage (HT Voltage) overvolts supposedly improve the motherboard/chipset's ability to run at higher than default speeds (i.e., higher than 1000MHz/2000MHz double-pumped). On my ASUS A8N32-SLI Deluxe, where I run the HT bus at 1160MHz (290MHz x 4), I did not enable HT Overvolt (not that the BIOS supports granular voltage overvoltage control like DFI BIOSes do) to keep the system stable.

I would imagine each board to react in its own individual manner, so if you choose to run at higher-than-stock speeds on the HT bus you have to test the effects of LDT/HT overvolts.

Hue, this is how I view it. Although, after doing a little bit of reading I gather that the LDT is part of the i/o system or even CPU-CPU packet transport. Basically what intel would call the FSB.
So this has actually gotten me to re-think when to apply LDT voltage.









This is the thought I have rattling around in my head, guys tell me if it sounds out of whack.
LDT are the transport lanes between the peripherals (pci/pcie) and the CPU. And when you increase the HTT it can distort the signal and could cause errors, more than likely driver errors and the possibility of extension port loss. Such as GPU's not showing up and USB ports not working. etc. if you up the voltage, you might be able to stabilize your overclock and have your board be totally functional at the higher clock. Without having to compensate by either increasing vcore or NB voltage.

And yeah Hue, the DFi's, even my ultra-d's, have literally TONS of little tweaks and adjustments that you can do to almost every component of the board. They really are a treat to play with. Exceptional boards thats for sure.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Hue, this is how I view it. Although, after doing a little bit of reading I gather that the LDT is part of the i/o system or even CPU-CPU packet transport. Basically what intel would call the FSB.
And yeah Hue, the DFi's, even my ultra-d's, have literally TONS of little tweaks and adjustments that you can do to almost every component of the board. They really are a treat to play with. Exceptional boards thats for sure.

BO would the Ultra D be in the lanparty family or series of mobo's?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
BO would the Ultra D be in the lanparty family or series of mobo's?

Yes they are, N2G.


----------



## GuardianOdin

DFI+Time+Patience= Awesome


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
BO would the Ultra D be in the lanparty family or series of mobo's?


Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Yes they are, N2G.



















Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
DFI+Time+Patience= Awesome

Ain't that the truth. Although, to tell you honestly, I needed more patience with my Asus than I've needed with my DFI's. The missing BIOS functions that would peeve me about the Asus board, the DFI's have. In actuality, I think they're easier to tweak simply due to the amount of options that are at your disposal.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Ain't that the truth. Although, to tell you honestly, I needed more patience with my Asus than I've needed with my DFI's. The missing BIOS functions that would peeve me about the Asus board, the DFI's have. In actuality, I think they're easier to tweak simply due to the amount of options that are at your disposal.

memory sub-timings get me every time. The rest almost seems like common practice now.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


memory sub-timings get me every time. The rest almost seems like common practice now.


 Lol I've stopped messing with memory for the time being. I'm too impatient to let the memory loops go on for hours.
I just set it to auto and up the ref clock. If it works correctly, the board should adjust the RAM to some pretty wicked tight timings.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Lol I've stopped messing with memory for the time being. I'm too impatient to let the memory loops go on for hours.
I just set it to auto and up the ref clock. If it works correctly, the board should adjust the RAM to some pretty wicked tight timings.


I pretty much did too with my GSkill, but I just had to see what the new Muskin Redlines would so I was back to tweaking. I'll have to find the screen shot of the current timings for you.

Found it! S&M Stable


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Right now I'm learning that, even if it's more user-friendly than the CFX3200-DR, the SLI-DR can't really stay 100% stable when you leave the sub-timings on Auto. The sig rig is stable enough to run extended OCCT Large runs/Orthos Blend runs (around 8-12 hrs, depending on the run, and depending on the ambient temperatures - they get up to 32 degs C at my apartment







), but will BSoD on shutdown (with a reference to the ati3duag.dll) intermittently.

My googling suggests that a possible cause of the blue screens is the memory settings. Weirdly enough, I check the settings that the board applies to the system on boot, and the sub-timings are never always the same each time they boot. In other words, Auto settings are variable depending on unknown criteria/parameters.

Likely the best approach is to tweak the settings manually, to eliminate these intermittent BSoDs.

(And that's where I am with the current sig rig.







)


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*










I think they're easier to tweak simply due to the amount of options that are at your disposal.


 939 DFI mobo's for sure. I don't know if the later AM2 - AM3 mobo's have any advantages over ASUS or other makers. Does any one know about this. blitz has a more modern DFI mobo how about it blitz does your mobo have more bios options then other makers mobo's?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*









Right now I'm learning that, even if it's more user-friendly than the CFX3200-DR, the SLI-DR can't really stay 100% stable when you leave the sub-timings on Auto. The sig rig is stable enough to run extended OCCT Large runs/Orthos Blend runs (around 8-12 hrs, depending on the run, and depending on the ambient temperatures - they get up to 32 degs C at my apartment







), but will BSoD on shutdown (with a reference to the ati3duag.dll) intermittently.

My googling suggests that a possible cause of the blue screens is the memory settings. Weirdly enough, I check the settings that the board applies to the system on boot, and the sub-timings are never always the same each time they boot. In other words, Auto settings are variable depending on unknown criteria/parameters.

Likely the best approach is to tweak the settings manually, to eliminate these intermittent BSoDs.

(And that's where I am with the current sig rig.







)


I learned this the first week of owning my DFI NF4 SLI DR. I talked to a tech and DFI that gave me suggestions and I also had a problem w/my ram OCZ. Lukily I live literally 45 min away from Santa Clara Ca where OCZ was located to get a new replacement pair of ram modules. I set my static ram timings and have always done just that ever since w/any mobo I use. I never leave ram timings on Auto. At leaste not the important ones.


----------



## Blitz6804

N2Gaming: The "LanParty UT" series boards are just like the 939 LanParty boards. The "LanParty DK" boards are slightly scaled back, and as such, would likely be more in-line with other manufacturers. HOWEVER, having only owing one board, I have no basis of comparison. This board has about as many options as did my Abit AT8-32x, and maybe a few extras regards Memclock driving strength and the more-obscure things like that, if that serves a decent basis of comparison.


----------



## thlnk3r

Sorry guys I don't mean to be rude but LDT and HT are the same thing. I'm not sure what the confusion is all about


----------



## Blitz6804

That is, that LDT = Hypertransport, and not HTT (FSB) yes?


----------



## Hueristic

My confusion is where is this voltage applied. On the Cpu? I'll probally mix up HT and HTT till they day I die.

As I was trying to ask and BO did a good job of saying.
If this voltage is applied to Increase the signal strength between the mem controller (on die) and Memory then does this mean the CPU is capable of having multiple varying voltages applied to it (AKA Dual plane)? Or is this voltage applied to the bus some other way (AKA NB)? Because As I stated in my HTT ,misstated post If indeed the voltage is applied to the mem controller directly it would seem that this would lower the TPD If the Vcore was lower and the LTD/HT was bumped?
IF so I want this setting on my Mobo.


----------



## Blitz6804

I believe it is applied in some other way. As far as I know, until the STARS processor (K10 or K10.5; requiring AM2+ not AM2) AMD were single plane processors. On my boards, the voltage setting did not help stability when Hypertransport was below 1000 MHz, so it should be for Hypertransport, not HTT.


----------



## Hueristic

I don't see how a signal can be increased unless the voltage is increased on one end or the other. I would guess it would be on the cpu as the NB would need a repeater (which would cause all kinds of issues. 
That or I am missing something blatantly obvious? These days I wouldn't be surprised.


----------



## Blitz6804

For the life of me, I do not know WHERE the LDT voltage goes, but it goes somewhere. Increasing that voltage will permit you to keep a 5x Hypertransport multiplier at higher HTTs. I did not notice a CPU temperature increase, so I do not think it is there that the voltage is applied.


----------



## Hueristic

Thx Blitz. I'd really like to know this one.


----------



## N2Gaming

Have any of you guys looked at this Here for the explanation to LDT voltage right here in our own back yard


----------



## BlackOmega

You know I've been thinking about where the LDT voltage is actually applied. And the diagram for the ULi interconnections pops in to my head. I can't seem to locate it at the moment. But from an article I read earlier today, from what I gather about the LDT its the communication lanes between the peripherals and the CPU. 
So that leads me to believe that the voltage must go to the southbridge which is what all of the peripherals go through with the exception of the PCIe slots. Thats why the PCIe lanes usually (on DFIs anyway) have their own voltage and frequency settings. Totally independent of the NB and SB.
But since there is no temp sensors on there, it's hard to tell.


----------



## Hueristic

I scoped that out yesterday, still doesn't explain how a voltage appears on the bus.









Quote:



EDIT: power first goes to the HHT bus then is redirected from there to the memory controller, 9/10 you only need to increase the VDIMM if tightening timing


If this statement is correct then I would like to know how. And if it is the NB and not the CPU then would lowering the nb voltage while increasing the HT voltage allow for a higher HTT? 
Neither of my boards have this option so I'm really intrigued now.


----------



## Hueristic

Hey BO do you have a link to the block diagram? The southbridge is direct connected to the mem lanes? I thought the NB deligated to the SB.


----------



## BlackOmega

I posted it in here not too long ago, but you'd have to search to find it.

And I was under the impression that the LDT had nothing to with the memory whatsoever.


----------



## Blitz6804

It looks as if the Hypertransport connects the CPU to the Chipset.


----------



## BlackOmega

Well that is very interesting. So now I am going to assume that the voltage just goes to that lane.

I wonder if there is any benefit to be had by achieving a high LDT/HT rate.


----------



## Blitz6804

I saw a marginal (read: circa 2%) improvement in 3DMark06 between a 1000 MHz Hypertransport and a 1250 MHz Hypertransport on my Toledo. (If I remember right; I will see if I can find the data.)


----------



## Hueristic

Shouldn't the memory be off to the side of the HT bus? Inbetween the CPU and the Chipset(what we refer to as the NB: or at least I still do<yeah I know since the mem cntrlr is gone it isn't>)

:edit LOL The one time I don't use emoticons and they snuck into my post anyway!








:edit2: brain dead (er than usual) and exhausted see you guys tomorrow.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

For me, on my previous sig rig (Darth Ominous), the benefit of running a higher-than-stock HT frequency was not necessarily measurable by benchmarks. At the keyboard level, though, the machine felt a bit more responsive. Boot times improved, as well (I forget the exact degree of improvement, however).


----------



## GuardianOdin

well, when I buy this spank new Opty 170







I will test the HT


----------



## Blitz6804

That too Joe. At the keyboard, the system was snappier. As was boot time. With a caveat... If you set it to 1250 MHz, it got slower. If you set it to 1250 MHz and increased the voltage one step, it was in fact faster. Apparently then, 1250 MHz was pushing the edge of instability for stock voltage.

Hueristic: Now that you mention it, I do not see memory on there at all... As near as I could guess, it would be off the top directly connected to the CPU.


----------



## BlackOmega

Hmm... you guys think that 1500 would be achievable? I wonder if that would make it super responsive







. Not that mine feels sluggish by any means, every other computer I use "feels" slower for the most part. But I haven't used any good high performance rigs lately.


----------



## Blitz6804

AM2 K8 rigs usually permit a higher Hypertransport. That said, the highest I was able to stabilize on my Brisbane was around 1400 MHz, so I would guess that 1500 MHz would not be attainable.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


AM2 K8 rigs usually permit a higher Hypertransport. That said, the highest I was able to stabilize on my Brisbane was around 1400 MHz, so I would guess that 1500 MHz would not be attainable.


 I started reading all post's w/the avatar off of the screen to the left so I can't see who is posing. I just start reading form the top of the post. After reading this one I had to guess it was blitz. Sure nuff it was you blitz. You have a writing style unique to you as does thln3r and joe. I on the other hand need to go back to school and brush up on my english. Not trying to offend any one just trying to guess if I can tell who is posting by their writing style.

O K now back on subject

I think you may be able to do it BO. Your always up for a challenge. Do eat.







Go for 1500 HTT


----------



## thlnk3r

Team, LDT Voltage and Hypertransport Voltage is the same thing. When you start overclocking the HT speed you simply raise the voltage to help the increase in speed. It's just like raising the Vcore when overclocking a processor. Hypertransport is a complete system bus which integrates quite a few things(ie. pci, pcie, ethernet, usb, firewire ect) so from my understanding it's completely separate from the IMC.

Hope that helps


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Team, LDT Voltage and Hypertransport Voltage is the same thing. When you start overclocking the HT speed you simply raise the voltage to help the increase in speed. It's just like raising the Vcore when overclocking a processor. Hypertransport is a complete system bus which integrates quite a few things(ie. pci, pcie, ethernet, usb, firewire ect) so from my understanding it's completely separate from the IMC.

Hope that helps


 Thinker, we know that the LDT and HT are 1 and the same.







What we were wondering at first was why it was recommended to max out the voltage on that bus system when overclocking.
Then we were contemplating where it physically goes, we weren't positive if the power actually went to the NB, SB or if it went to part of the cpu itself.
Then Blitz pointed out the actual HT link was between the CPU and the NB. But is that where the actual voltage goes?

Sorry if it seemed like were going around in circles.









N2, once my final is over (thursday) I'll give overclocking the HT a shot and see if there's a noticeable improvement or not.


----------



## Hueristic

I was doing some reading while my mind was shutting down again last night, Worst time for me to post (that or before my meds kick in in the morning







), and The specs call for 1000HT (2000 effective as it is ddr) on the 939 and (IIRC 1500/3000 on am2).
Thinking of the block diagram (and thinking the K8 is single plane) I have settings to increase the CPU, MEM and NB (which in that diagram has the generic name "Chipset" [What is the actual name of the NB with the Mem controller removed]) so having a HT/LDT voltage when you have the 3 voltages connected on the HT bus is rattleing my brain. Unless one of the 3 is dual plane (no way it's the mem) I don't see how you can have an extra setting. That is why I have been asking "Where is this voltage applied".
In the old days "when I did this for a living I would have grabbed the tech manual and read it while on the throne. But these days (I don't get paid for reading all day: And my memory is horrible since my accident) I have many mundane things that keep piling up that I need to attend to rather than research.
Does anyone have a account here? sandpile.org It seems to be a nice repository. I may dig deeper into it but I have other things to get to (Like my [email protected]$#@!# LazyBoy broke! @#[email protected]#!).

Edit: Hey BO, I wouldn't go too high on the HT(apparently there is a point of diminishing returns: maybe do to signal degradation[which it seems is what the LDT voltage helps correct]), From what I've been able to gather pushing it past 1200/2400 (or thereabouts: probably depends on the traces and/or the chipset[not the mem since you have a divider])) saturates the bus and without ecc mem It looks like that can cause all types of data corruption.

Hope this post was more understandable, My writing comprehension leaves alot to be desired lately!

Think3r: I thought the HT was only for communication between the CPU-MEM-NB(insert name here)? IIRC the southbridge has been delegated to controlling most peripherals and runs at a slower rate.

Actually going back and looking at that block diagram I'm not sure why it shows the PCI running off the NB I thought was delegated to the sb(IIRC PCI [email protected]).


----------



## Blitz6804

Hueristic: What I remember of my Crossfire Xpress 3200 and my current 790FX, PCIe runs off the chipset, PCI / USB / SATA / ATA (and sometimes audio / firewire / ethernet) runs off the southbridge. A northbridge without a memory controller is, as far as I know, correctly called a chipset.

N2Gaming: Yeah, some writing styles are distinctive. I always got in trouble in Research and Writing for using "legalese." My teacher did not and could not comprehend that this is how I always type / speak. My friend yells at me for using "said" in conversation. I do not mean as in "someone said this," but instead, "and then you overclock said bus."


----------



## Hueristic

chipset


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
What we were wondering at first was why it was recommended to max out the voltage on that bus system when overclocking.

BlackOmega, who or what documentation is recommending that we max out the HT voltage? If you're not overclocking the HT speed then the voltage shouldn't be touched...correct?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Then we were contemplating where it physically goes, we weren't positive if the power actually went to the NB, SB or if it went to part of the cpu itself.
Then Blitz pointed out the actual HT link was between the CPU and the NB. But is that where the actual voltage goes?

Good question. HT is part of the cpu itself but I also know it uses the bus on the board to communicate with the other components. I guess we'll never know unless we actually sit down with a AMD technician that really knows more about the technology









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Think3r: I thought the HT was only for communication between the CPU-MEM-NB(insert name here)? IIRC the southbridge has been delegated to controlling most peripherals and runs at a slower rate.

Hueristic, here is a good explanation of HT (Hypertransport): http://www.webopedia.com/TERM/H/HyperTransport.html. Simple and easy to understand!

Good luck


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Hueristic, here is a good explanation of HT (Hypertransport): http://www.webopedia.com/TERM/H/HyperTransport.html. Simple and easy to understand!

Good luck

Understood but this doesn't answer my original question, "Where is the HT/LDT voltage applied?"


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
"Where is the HT/LDT voltage applied?"

in the bios...







j/k


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
in the bios...







j/k





































I hate you now!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 



































I hate you now!


----------



## Blitz6804

Again, I would expect on the chipset side of the equation, but as you said, how is that possible unless the chipset is dual plane. I know the CPU cannot be dual plane, as that was a big selling point when AM2+ came out: Now dual planed!


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Again, I would expect on the chipset side of the equation, but as you said, how is that possible unless the chipset is dual plane. I know the CPU cannot be dual plane, as that was a big selling point when AM2+ came out: Now dual planed!









I guess know one here knows.







I'll sign up on that sandbox site and try to find out when I get some time, Gotta go for a walk now and stretch the back while the meds are working. BBL

OH, Fixed the LazyBoy!!!!!!! W00t! Broke 2 screws (They don't even have bolts how pathetic!)

Edit: also Come on guys I know there are things you hate to see changed! Join my club and Rant a Little!


----------



## Blitz6804

Change is not always a bad thing... then again... *continues playing SimTower; released in 1994.* The nice thing about this is I can have three cores SMP folding while the fourth core runs SimTower. Unlike modern games where I cannot do both at once. (SMP would be past deadlines when submitted.)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Change is not always a bad thing... then again... *continues playing SimTower; released in 1994.* The nice thing about this is I can have three cores SMP folding while the fourth core runs SimTower. Unlike modern games where I cannot do both at once. (SMP would be past deadlines when submitted.)


On a machine running VISTA, too.









(Who says the world has to be logical, eh?)


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, it is a 16-bit program though... so it does not run in Vista. I have to run an XP virtual machine to run it. I wish Vista did not drop support for 16-bit programs; that is a change I hated.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Yeah, it is a 16-bit program though... so it does not run in Vista. I have to run an XP virtual machine to run it. I wish Vista did not drop support for 16-bit programs; that is a change I hated.


Can't you run it in "Compatibility Mode XP SP2"

Or any previous Compatibility modes offered?


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, 16-bit computing is impossible while in a 64-bit operating system; period. However, even Vista x86 disabled 16-bit computing.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Well, 16-bit computing is impossible while in a 64-bit operating system; period. However, even Vista x86 disabled 16-bit computing.


Well, I wasn't aware of that. (the 64bit part)

seems like a silly move, maybe that will be reversed in 7 with the XP VMware


----------



## Blitz6804

I have tried XP Mode with the Windows 7 RC. It does not run 3D applications well at all. Your better bet is to run VirtualBox (Sun Microsystems; freeware) as I am doing right now.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I have tried XP Mode with the Windows 7 RC. It does not run 3D applications well at all. Your better bet is to run VirtualBox (Sun Microsystems; freeware) as I am doing right now.


I already have that

<3 Sun's FOSS.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Edit: Hey BO, I wouldn't go too high on the HT(apparently there is a point of diminishing returns: maybe do to signal degradation[which it seems is what the LDT voltage helps correct]), From what I've been able to gather pushing it past 1200/2400 (or thereabouts: probably depends on the traces and/or the chipset[not the mem since you have a divider])) saturates the bus and without ecc mem It looks like that can cause all types of data corruption.

Actually going back and looking at that block diagram I'm not sure why it shows the PCI running off the NB I thought was delegated to the sb(IIRC PCI [email protected]).


 Hmm.. well that is very interesting.







Looks like we/me are going to have to do quite a bit more digging before I/we fiddle with it.
That block diagram was a little different than the one for the ULi chipset, which showed literally everything including the pci lanes run off of the SB and only the PCIe lanes being utilizing the NB, but of course all of the info packets were sent through the NB to the CPU.

I was helping out a kid with an A8N sli deluxe board the other day and I recall it saying that it supported unbuffered ECC ram.... Maybe that would be a good board to experiment with OCing the HT link as high as possible as long as you use UB ECC RAM.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, who or what documentation is recommending that we max out the HT voltage? If you're not overclocking the HT speed then the voltage shouldn't be touched...correct?


 That was the impression I was under.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Good question. HT is part of the cpu itself but I also know it uses the bus on the board to communicate with the other components. I guess we'll never know unless we actually sit down with a AMD technician that really knows more about the technology










 Maybe we could contact some one of our mobo manufacturers tech support and find out. Since they make the dang things I'm sure they'd _have_ to know where it goes.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Change is not always a bad thing... then again... *continues playing SimTower; released in 1994.*












Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Maybe that would be a good board to experiment with OCing the HT link as high as possible as long as you use UB ECC RAM.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Maybe we could contact some one of our mobo manufacturers tech support and find out. Since they make the dang things I'm sure they'd _have_ to know where it goes.


I think AMD published an Article about HyperTransport on their website. You could check around to find it.

(AMD's website has to much flash for my Netbook)


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
I think AMD published an Article about HyperTransport on their website. You could check around to find it.

(AMD's website has to much flash for my Netbook)

I'll have to search around for it. ATM, I am using my netbook too. I gotta figure out a way of reinstalling the OS, it came with so much preloaded bull:turd: that I swear it's slower than my wifes iMac.


----------



## Blitz6804

Most OEM PCs come with two discs: the OS recovery CD and the "Driver and Utility CD." (Note: this is not all.) If that is the case, just run OS recovery CD for a clean install.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Maybe we could contact some one of our mobo manufacturers tech support and find out. Since they make the dang things I'm sure they'd _have_ to know where it goes.

Most likely the Tech dept will not know the answer either They may refer you to the Engineering department and give you a email address to the Engineering Dept for your highly technical questions.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Most OEM PCs come with two discs: the OS recovery CD and the "Driver and Utility CD." (Note: this is not all.) If that is the case, just run OS recovery CD for a clean install.

Well thats the thing about netbooks, they don't have an optical drive.

I was thinking of copying my XP.iso (or whatever the file is) to my thumbdrive.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Well thats the thing about netbooks, they don't have an optical drive.

I was thinking of copying my XP.iso (or whatever the file is) to my thumbdrive.

I suggest loading Ubuntu Netbook Remix to your Netbook via a thumb drive (2gb is the min I think)

And have a go at it.

It's compatible with all Netbook hardware, easy to use, and runs very well out of the box. It's also snappier, and has longer battery life than Xp.

But it still falls short because of the 1.6ghz Atom. But it's just that much of an edge without using an overclocking tool


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
I suggest loading Ubuntu Netbook Remix to your Netbook via a thumb drive (2gb is the min I think)

And have a go at it.

It's compatible with all Netbook hardware, easy to use, and runs very well out of the box. It's also snappier, and has longer battery life than Xp.

But it still falls short because of the 1.6ghz Atom. But it's just that much of an edge without using an overclocking tool

I might have a go at it..... Now I just gotta backup all my files.









You got a link for it?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Understood but this doesn't answer my original question, "Where is the HT/LDT voltage applied?"


Hueristic, here is an article that covers HT 1.x, 2.0 and 3.0. Read over the whole thing. To me it sounds like HT/LDT is on the processor itself. I have a feeling the LDT/HT Voltage is applied to the processor. As others have said though we would probably have better luck contacting a AMD engineer and asking him/her the question









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


I already have that

<3 Sun's FOSS.


Tator, have you tested VMWare? If so how does that (in your opinion) compare to VirtualBox?

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I tried VMWare. In my experience, VirtualBox creates a more-responsive guest system.

BlackOmega: USB CD Drive? Boot via LAN?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
BlackOmega: USB CD Drive? Boot via LAN?

Had that idea run through my head. But like Tator suggested I might give Ubuntu a shot since I don't game or use any really hardcore apps on it. The most hardcore thing on it that I use is MS office/word/ppt.

And getting acquainted with linux wouldn't be a bad idea. I figure the worst that can happen is I reinstall XP pro.


----------



## Blitz6804

For a Netbook, I do not suggest Ubuntu. Get Xubuntu instead; the XKCE manager runs much smoother than Gnome on marginal hardware.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Hueristic, here is an article that covers HT 1.x, 2.0 and 3.0. Read over the whole thing. To me it sounds like HT/LDT is on the processor itself. I have a feeling the LDT/HT Voltage is applied to the processor. As others have said though we would probably have better luck contacting a AMD engineer and asking him/her the question









Tator, have you tested VMWare? If so how does that (in your opinion) compare to VirtualBox?

Good luck


Well I got caught up reading articles from your link but still haven't found where the Ht voltage is applied. As I said earlier and you reiterated I still think it's on the cpu which should effect the TPD. If not it has to be on the NB, either way it should have a nice effect on OC being able to boost the bus without raising the temp on the entire chip it resides on sounds like something that needs some looking into. Wish my boards had this option.

Come to think of it my Tyan can use ECC and it's real cheap unlike non ECC DDR so if I can find a bios for this board that allows control of the ht voltage I'm getting some ECC to play with.


----------



## Blitz6804

Here are some 2 GB models being sold for $50 each: Ebay

I know the seller had four of those running in a 939 rig... a rare thing that much RAM on that socket.


----------



## theCanadian

I found an old CPUID validation in my email... This is the opty I said I was selling. And this was on a bad seat too...

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=518099

Please add me to the club.


----------



## decimator

I posted this in the memory sub-forum, but I'm pretty sure I'll get more accurate and better answers here if I ask here as well. I'm looking for a good 2GB kit of memory and came across these. They have Infineon BE-5 IC's with Brainpower PCB. Is it a good deal? Also, I'm not familiar with the characteristics of Infineon BE-5 IC's, although I have heard good things about them. What do you guys think?

EDIT: Oh, and I found these on Newegg. They also have Infineon BE-5 with Brainpower PCB. Cheaper, too. The thing is, though, is I had compatibility issues with my G.Skill Winbond UTT BH-5 and my current mobo. Do compatibility issues exist due to memory brand or simply by IC's? Because I don't want to buy the G.Skill RAM and not have it work...


----------



## Blitz6804

*IF* I remember Joe right (no guarantees) the BE-5s work well, but you need to be able to have a tweakable board (like the DFI UT 3200CFX) to extract the maximum out of them. (No promises that I am.)


----------



## N2Gaming

I have both of those ram kits you listed and for me I was not able to over clock the OCZ's that well. Of course I did not play w/them all that much due to my struggggggles with my am2 systems.







I plan on doing it real soon. If only I had two heads and 4 hands. I'd be duel headed and multi armed.







ROFLMAO


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


I posted this in the memory sub-forum, but I'm pretty sure I'll get more accurate and better answers here if I ask here as well. I'm looking for a good 2GB kit of memory and came across these. They have Infineon BE-5 IC's with Brainpower PCB. Is it a good deal? Also, I'm not familiar with the characteristics of Infineon BE-5 IC's, although I have heard good things about them. What do you guys think?

EDIT: Oh, and I found these on Newegg. They also have Infineon BE-5 with Brainpower PCB. Cheaper, too. The thing is, though, is I had compatibility issues with my G.Skill Winbond UTT BH-5 and my current mobo. Do compatibility issues exist due to memory brand or simply by IC's? Because I don't want to buy the G.Skill RAM and not have it work...


 Decimate, if I'm not mistaken my Corsairs have the same IC's, unsure about the PCB's. And my Corsairs have worked well on all 3 of my DFI's and my Asus boards.
I could get them to DDR450 without any voltage increase. But since I'm too impatient to let memtest run and check for errors I haven't verified if there was any issues with them or not so I just run them at DDR400 until I get some time. 
But in comparison, the infineons do considerably better than my Hyperx sticks (SamsungIC) which go haywire anything over DDR400.

And I'd imagine that if they're the same IC's and the same PCB's that they're identical other than the heatspreader and sticker put on them.

Good Luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I found a page with a bunch of overclocked memories. Most interesting is this set of BE-5s, running at DDR-530 on 2.75 V. There is also a set running at DDR-524 on 2.70 V. There are a heck of a lot more, but rather than guild the lily, I will just link you over to the relevant database on XtremeSystems.org. Sorry OCN, but I could not find an equitable database locally, so I had to link outside.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I found a page with a bunch of overclocked memories. Most interesting is this set of BE-5s, running at DDR-530 on 2.75 V. There is also a set running at DDR-524 on 2.70 V. There are a heck of a lot more, but rather than guild the lily, I will just link you over to the relevant database on XtremeSystems.org. Sorry OCN, but I could not find an equitable database locally, so I had to link outside.


 Wow! Some of those Micron 5B/D IC's OC REALLY well. 300+


----------



## Hueristic

@#% stinking meds not working yet! I just tried typing this post on the wrong keyboard!









Some day I won't have to look at the keyboard to type!







NOT!

So anyway, Does anyone have a phone number for Crucial? I've gone through 5 pages of RMA garbage info but there is nothing for cross shipping and I don't have a spare set of ddr2 for my htpc and need to rma these bad batch ballistics.
Still haven't done the corsairs either.







My rma pile is getting big again.








I'm really PO'd at Sapphire now. The new company they have for RMA is garbage and paying a middleman to ram i bull! No more recommending Sapphire from me anymore.


----------



## Blitz6804

Unless they changed it, Crucial Customer Support should be 1-888-363-4160. I have had an experience with Sapphire lately, and I agree: I am unhappy with their RMA procedure. Maybe I should have gone XFX as Pez told me to... Oh well, what is done is done.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Sorry OCN, but I could not find an equitable database locally, so I had to link outside.


Blitz, oh no dude you're in trouble now!!!


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Unless they changed it, Crucial Customer Support should be 1-888-363-4160. I have had an experience with Sapphire lately, and I agree: I am unhappy with their RMA procedure. Maybe I should have gone XFX as Pez told me to... Oh well, what is done is done.


THX man, will call tomorrow.

Yup, sapphire has no clue how bad they have shot themselves in the foot. Things get around fast these days and they are going to see their sales plummet.

I gotta say evga is on top of that though, start a thread and they cut through the bull and get it done.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Yup, sapphire has no clue how bad they have shot themselves in the foot. Things get around fast these days and they are going to see their sales plummet.


Hueristic, hasn't Sapphires support been poor since day one? I mean honestly which company out there has had 100% customer satisfaction when it came to telephone support for these types of products? Probably none. Perhaps the few technicians you guys got a hold of were just lazy and didn't care to help? Maybe the person at EVGA was having a good day so they felt like going the extra mile for you? It's not like you guys are calling Dell or Microsoft LOL. I tell you Dell's enterprise server and storage department is excellent over the phone. Make sure to call during business hours though


----------



## Blitz6804

In my experience, Dell's NBD Gold is outstanding... then again when you pay that much, you expect it to be. Microsoft's is mediocre. My beef with Sapphire is that it takes a while to do the RMA, you have to pay shipping on it to get to them, they send it back to you via the slowest method possible (took almost two weeks) and they refused to even tell me what was wrong with the card in the first place. (This one still groans under load.)


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Hueristic, hasn't Sapphires support been poor since day one?


No, Last time I rma'd like a year ago was my AGP X850 Pro (unlocked to 16 pipes: they never even mentioned this to me) and I had absolutely no issues and they even sent me a card that had an extra year on the warrenty. Since I didn't need it I put it in a drawer after useing it for a month and pulled it out a month or so ago and it was dead (I have no clue why :When I store cards/drives I always put them in anti-static bags) So I called them and got an RMA no problem but the middleman company they sent me to wanted to turn down the RMA I already got and charge me $15 to ship it to sapphire and charge me the cost of the repair (not to mention I had to pay the shipping as well). Needless to say it is not worth that so I have a worthless card that was top shelf originally and had to switch my HTPC to PCI-E.


----------



## N2Gaming

I have not heard any good things about saphire. I have read a few bad reviews on newegg as well. Me thinks saphire will fold in the next 3 years unless they get a OEM contract w/a big name like dell or ibm.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
No, Last time I rma'd like a year ago was my AGP X850 Pro (unlocked to 16 pipes: they never even mentioned this to me) and I had absolutely no issues and they even sent me a card that had an extra year on the warrenty. Since I didn't need it I put it in a drawer after useing it for a month and pulled it out a month or so ago and it was dead (I have no clue why :When I store cards/drives I always put them in anti-static bags) So I called them and got an RMA no problem but the middleman company they sent me to wanted to turn down the RMA I already got and charge me $15 to ship it to sapphire and charge me the cost of the repair (not to mention I had to pay the shipping as well). Needless to say it is not worth that so I have a worthless card that was top shelf originally and had to switch my HTPC to PCI-E.

I'd call Sapphire's warranty dept. again and tell them that the card is STILL under warranty and that you DEMAND them to either repair or replace it. And tell them if they do not, you will call the Better Business Bureau and file a grievance. Trust me, they don't want that. They will issue you an RMA, and most likely even pay for shipping.
There's other thing that you can do as well like file a small claims suit against them as well. At that point though, will it be worth your time?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I have not heard any good things about saphire. I have read a few bad reviews on newegg as well. Me thinks saphire will fold in the next 3 years unless they get a OEM contract w/a big name like dell or ibm.

They used to be a really good company. But whatevers happening on their end is really killing them.

But sadly, ATi AiB partners have always been lacking compared to nVidia, until XFX rolled onto the tracks.

Hopefully VisionTek & PowerColor put their A game on.

All HIS has to do is make IceQ cards and I'll be happy.

Diamond can burn in a fire, they used to be the BFG of ATi, but 2 years back they just decided to forget all that made them great, and then stop making anything of quality or originality. But still charge a premium.


----------



## Blitz6804

I had a LOT of problems with Diamond. It got to the point where even the MANAGER of the RMA department has started ignoring me... the card was bad out of the box, sent in for repair, was replaced, and came back broken. (Not as badly broken as the first one, but still brokent.) Diamond completely refused to talk to me after they replaced the card. (Which, by the way, replacing a defective product with a defective product is a tort in New York. I was just too lazy to do anything about it.) Prior to my x1950xge, I always bought direct from ATi. When my x1600 died at 366 days old, ATi refused to repair it, even if I paid for it, siting a warranty policy that the card has a 1-year warranty from the date of manufacture, not the date of sale. I went Visiontek for my x1950 XGE, and ATi stopped selling cards soon thereafter.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Diamond can burn in a fire, they used to be the BFG of ATi, but 2 years back they just decided to forget all that made them great, and then stop making anything of quality or originality. But still charge a premium.


That sounds typical of the evil big corporation agenda. First they put out a great product that last's forever. Kind of like Toyota back in the day. Then they scale back on quality in the early 80's and start making cars w/sub standard parts that will cause the whole motor to destruct. Corolla and Tercel comes to mind. I just used Toyota as an example but all corporations do this when they get greedy and don't care about the end user because they are so big and they have the Reputation of good quality. It's hard to bounce back from poor quality in the market. Look at Yugo. You don't see any of those around much any more or the early Hyundai excell models. Good on gas and for about 45-60K miles then scrap em unless you want to spend as much as you did on the car new just to keep it going.

Sorry BO I'm not trying to get you going on cars again. I just used the auto industry because that is one that I am more familiar with.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I had a LOT of problems with Diamond. It got to the point where even the MANAGER of the RMA department has started ignoring me... the card was bad out of the box, sent in for repair, was replaced, and came back broken. (Not as badly broken as the first one, but still brokent.) Diamond completely refused to talk to me after they replaced the card. (Which, by the way, replacing a defective product with a defective product is a tort in New York. I was just too lazy to do anything about it.) Prior to my x1950xge, I always bought direct from ATi. When my x1600 died at 366 days old, ATi refused to repair it, even if I paid for it, siting a warranty policy that the card has a 1-year warranty from the date of manufacture, not the date of sale. I went Visiontek for my x1950 XGE, and ATi stopped selling cards soon thereafter.


 wow thats REALLY crappy. So if a retailer had the card sitting around for 1 year on their shelves, you'd basically buy a card warranty less. But I think that at that point the retailer would have to eat the cost of the card, since it was _implied_ that the card came with a full 1year warranty.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Sorry BO I'm not trying to get you going on cars again. I just used the auto industry because that is one that I am more familiar with.











It's cool. 
Kind of reminds me how drug dealers start peddling their products. First couple of "samples" are free, then once the user is hooked start charging.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

How weird.

I wonder what I've been doing all this time (well, the last three years, anyhow, since I built my first PC and got into this hobby) not having borked a single video card...


----------



## Blitz6804

My entire time with computers, I have had one die on me (ATi x1600) and two defective ones from the factory (both Diamond HD 3850s), one hard drive failure (Western Digital 80 GB ATA), and one speaker system failure (Creative Inspire T5200). Western Digital replaced my 80 GB ATA with a 120 GB ATA, saying that the drive was defective from the warehouse. Creative replaced my Inspire T5200 with an Inspire T7700 for similar reasons. (Those are now failing some 6-years later.) As I said prior, both ATi and Diamond told me to get stuffed.


----------



## N2Gaming

Most people say good things about EVGA. I recently asked if they could repair a couple of 8800GTS 640MB cards and they told me sorry no not at this time. They don't even do out of warranty repair. So I don't think I will purchase from them any time soon. One thing I like about DFI. They offer out of warranty repair at a fair price.


----------



## ciff1

What did i start by posting raise ldt bus voltage to max when finding htt max!!
Anyway found this out if it helps.
When AMD moved the memory controller from the northbridge to the CPU, they did not a little thing. Firstly, they changed the FSB to HTT. What is HTT? Going to google will give you numerous and many varied results, none of which you find on the first page will be the right answer. Not on page 2, either. But on page 3, we get this result:

"HyperTransportâ„¢ Consortium - Press Releases

Recent Press Releases. For more information about HyperTransport press releases and press related materials, please contact: Constance Sweeney - (650) 358-9119. ... www.hypertransport.org/consortium/cons_news.cfm - 25k - Cached - Similar pages"

HyperTransport is a whole different beast from the FSB. The HyperTransport Consortium says this:

"HyperTransport interconnect technology is a high-performance, high-speed, high-bandwidth, point-to-point link that provides the lowest possible latency for chip-to-chip links. HyperTransport technology provides a flexible, scalable interconnect architecture designed to reduce the number of buses within the system, provide a high-performance link for applications ranging from embedded systems, to personal computers and servers, to network equipment and supercomputers."

"HyperTransport technology's aggregrate bandwidth of 22.4GB/sec represents better than a 70-fold increase in data throughput over legacy PCI buses. While providing far greater bandwidth, HyperTransport technology complements legacy I/O standards like PCI as well as emerging technologies like PCI-X and PCI Express."

HyperTransportâ„¢ Technology Overview

So now we know what they call it, it's really the communication channel between the CPU and the northbridge, and will be labelled "LDT" in your bios. With the memory controller residing on the CPU die, passing info from memory to the other components in your system is much, much faster, as it no longer goes memory, northbridge, CPU, northbridge, components, but memory, CPU, northbridge, components. That's one whole step gone, and a large reason for AMD's strength in the gmaing market. What the technology poses for the future could be discussed quite thoroughly, probably taking up weeks and weeks, but all we want it is to overclock it. Lets get to it, shall we?

First, we start here, taken from the same page as the last info from the HyperTransport Consortium:

1.2-V Low-Voltage Differential Signaling (LVDS) with a 100-ohm differential impedance

So it starts off at 1.2v, but in the technology white papers, it says 1.14-1.26v max., and more specifically:

Measured at the external connection to the HyperTransport device package. The VLDT as measured on the die should maintain a 1.1V to 1.3V range under all conditions. This Â±100mV variation at the die is considered when defining the DC output characteristics in this specification.

That means that the 1.25v setting for LDT that you most often see in your bios...just leave it. Even signalling up to 2.8gb/s, and as low as 400mb/s, all require the same voltage. Going faster may nessecitate more, but seeing how most chips now are only in the 2.0gb/s range, there's losts of headroom. There's even more signal loss at the hihgher frequencies, so i don't think that giving it any more will really make a difference.

Your chipset basically sets the base speed, and currently some of the Via chipsets allow up to 2.0gb/s, to coincide with the Wincester A64's, but most chips, either Clawhammer- or Newcastle-core based both say 1600mb/s, at least from AMD, so keep this numbers in mind for you ultimate goal. Some chips will go higher than what they are rated for, but it's best to be -/+ 50mb/s.

Most threads i've read suggest raising the ldt bus volts when going for very high htt speeds in order to help stability between 400 - 500htt
My expert board bios allows over 500htt to be entered i think


----------



## ciff1

Read this link i found about ldt bus voltages increasing http://www.aoaforums.com/frontpage/i...=249&Itemid=34


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Please welcome theCanadian to our Club.









ciff1, good info posted.


----------



## BlackOmega

Although that was an informative read. It still doesn't answer the question where the voltage is actually applied.

Like Hue, I'm starting to assume it actually goes to the chip itself, but then why wouldn't you see a temp increase?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Although that was an informative read. It still doesn't answer the question where the voltage is actually applied.

Like Hue, I'm starting to assume it actually goes to the chip itself, but then why wouldn't you see a temp increase?


I always assumed the voltage for hyper Transport went to your CPU, as it holds the HT clock which then effects your Northbridge clock, Hypertransport speed, RAM speed (based off divider.) Along with your CPU speed.


----------



## Blitz6804

And how? The socket is (supposedly) only a single plane. If it is a dual plane on a 939 system, then would not it be a tri plane on an AM2+ system? Anecdotally, I still posit that that the voltage must be related to the chipset. This explains why the CFX3200 chipset, on average, has a higher stable Hypertransport than the nForce4 chipset, which in turn is, on average, higher than the average Via or nForce3 chipset.


----------



## Blitz6804

Doing some more reading, it seems as if "Hypertransport" not only connects the CPU to the Northbridge, but also provides the link from the Northbridge to the Southbridge. This is why there is usually two width adjustments in the BIOS; one is for the CPU-NB, the other is for NB-SB. Still not finding anything on where the voltage goes though. (-_-)


----------



## decimator

My BIOS splits those into "NB 1.8V" and "NB 1.2V". Didn't know one was for CPU-NB and one was for NB-SB. Thanks for that







.


----------



## N2Gaming

has any one figured out the best voice over ip application yet for the party







and has any one been using it as a server and are you gonna host a voice over ip server for the party? Any 0ne......


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


has any one figured out the best voice over ip application yet for the party







and has any one been using it as a server and are you gonna host a voice over ip server for the party? Any 0ne......










Did it again, Hit quote on this and had like 15 multi's









I've been trying to clean my house the last few days. Can't find any of my tools now.







That's why I hate cleaning, If I don't finish the entire place I can't find a thing.









I've got 3/4 of the livingroom done!


----------



## N2Gaming

got some chicks coming over


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


got some chicks coming over










Wish, Just can't take it anymore. I keep to much junk and repair everything and eventually it all gets to the point where it's all over and one thing gets moved and I need to move 5 things to find the one thing and next thing I know I can't find anything. When I can't find my tools that's when somethings gotta give!


----------



## Blitz6804

Whee! Wicked sword fighting again! (Hue's avatar.)

N2Gaming: I personally like to use Xfire while gaming, most of my compatriots like Steam. The nice thing with Xfire (as compared to Steam) is that I can have a different voice input/output from the rest of my audio sources. The same is true of Skype, which I have used often. Skype and Xfire are both good bets.


----------



## ciff1

Any ideas, I'm getting random freezes - hard lockups occasionally can be weeks or days when system isn't even stressed and have to press reset button.Thought it might be psu but everything seems fine according to hardware monitor min 12v under 100 load 11.65v.Upgraded from single core opt146 which had no problems, have installed dualcore driver and optimizer.Cpu was recognized as a multiprocessor by windows straight away.OS xp sp3 with internet explorer 7.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Wish, Just can't take it anymore. I keep to much junk and repair everything and eventually it all gets to the point where it's all over and one thing gets moved and I need to move 5 things to find the one thing and next thing I know I can't find anything. When I can't find my tools that's when somethings gotta give!










Yeah it's frustrating when I go to use a tool and can't remeber where I left it the last time I used it. I need to do some cleaning as well but I'm to lazy.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Whee! Wicked sword fighting again! (Hue's avatar.)

N2Gaming: I personally like to use Xfire while gaming, most of my compatriots like Steam. The nice thing with Xfire (as compared to Steam) is that I can have a different voice input/output from the rest of my audio sources. The same is true of Skype, which I have used often. Skype and Xfire are both good bets.


What ever you guys decide I'll install, yeah I changed the avatar cause someone didn't like my older pic and I was in a thread about shaveing body hair!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *ciff1*


Any ideas, I'm getting random freezes - hard lockups occasionally can be weeks or days when system isn't even stressed and have to press reset button.Thought it might be psu but everything seems fine according to hardware monitor min 12v under 100 load 11.65v.Upgraded from single core opt146 which had no problems, have installed dualcore driver and optimizer.Cpu was recognized as a multiprocessor by windows straight away.OS xp sp3 with internet explorer 7.


Yeah you were in the multi quote I didn't get to, I just went back and read your wall of text and it looked like you were just reiterating what we have already established. I did not see a question in there.

You said you are having random lockups? can you be more specific? Is this with a stable OC machine or the one your working on OCing? If it's the one your working on then the problem is either your temps are out of control or your OC is unstable.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Yeah it's frustrating when I go to use a tool and can't remeber where I left it the last time I used it. I need to do some cleaning as well but I'm to lazy.










I'm with ya on that one. I'm not a neat freak by any stretch of the imagination, but I draw the line at dirty dishes and when I can't find my tools!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

ciff1, I would suggest that your RAM settings (specifically the so-called "sub-timings") are likely to be less than perfectly-tuned. A week or so ago I was where you are now, dealing with similar issues. Tuning the RAM helped gain me a ton more stability.









An old friend (vwgti) used to run the same RAM as you are (as do I), and pointed me on to this thread. Use the settings in Post# 9 as a starting point.









Good luck.


----------



## ciff1

Machine passes custompc benchmarks, 3d mark 06, have not run prime 95 for 4-8 hours yet , but have used machine since december like this and played hours of cod4, farcry 2 etc no problems.Temps currently 26-28c under prime95 100% at curent oc just over 50c measured with coretemp.Lockups have occured just web browsing or in ms word, my son had a lockup after 1.5 hr of flatout ultimate carnage but temps were gpu 55c cpu 45 -48c.


----------



## ciff1

txtmstrjoe, Many thanks but already have these timings from greg before he quit muskin forums, except the ones to try in brackets as alternates.


----------



## Blitz6804

I know that DFI boards are VERY temperamental when it comes to power supplies, often requiring something with a little more kick that is otherwise thought. You have all supplemental power connectors plugged into the motherboard? That is, any and all Molex or Bergman connectors?


----------



## BlackOmega

I for one second checking/tuning the memory. Possibly run memtest for a while.

And yeah your PSU does seem inadequate. I would imagine a minimum of 500w with that GPU, HDD array and whatever else you might have plugged in to it.


----------



## decimator

PSU upgrade in your future for sure...

Anyway, as far as the state of my OC, I figured that 1.48 vcore 24/7 for a meager 300 MHz bump wasn't worth it, so I dialed it back to 2.8 GHz at 1.4 vcore (224 x 12.5 with HTT 4x). Ran 50 passes of LinX and 8+ hours of Prime95 in-place large FFT's without a problem. Ran 3DMark06 and got a score of 10971







. The last time I ran 3DMark06 at 2.8 GHz, I got 11202, but the settings of the OC were different -- 216 MHz x 13 with HTT 5x. Did the higher HT Link speed make that much of a difference? If I were to set the HTT multi back up to 5x, my HT Link speed would be 1120 MHz at my current OC, requiring me to bump up the HTT voltage a bit. Would it be worth it? And how much of a bump do you think is required?


----------



## Blitz6804

The Hypertransport link does not make a major difference after 850 MHz in my experience. That said, you will notice a very minor improvement for 1120 MHz as compared to 1000 MHz. You may or may not need a voltage bump. My nForce3 board needed me to add voltage for anything over 1050 MHz, whereas my CFX3200 board was able to do about 1150 MHz on stock, and 1250 MHz with the smallest increment possible. I will say however that K8s tend to dislike non-integral multipliers. You may get better results with 233x12 than 224x12.5.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


What ever you guys decide I'll install, yeah I changed the avatar cause someone didn't like my older pic and I was in a thread about shaveing body hair!










 That's a cool avatar and the other one was just fine as well. Of course I'm not a girl or gay so I'm not gonna judge you on your apearance.









That sword almost looks as tall as you.









I was thinking about taking a picture of my self on my parked quad standing up in a wheelie w/me sitting on it but then I got to thinking that might look kind of stupid/gay.







Besides I don't like posing for my self.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 
PSU upgrade in your future for sure...

Anyway, as far as the state of my OC, I figured that 1.48 vcore 24/7 for a meager 300 MHz bump wasn't worth it, so I dialed it back to 2.8 GHz at 1.4 vcore (224 x 12.5 with HTT 4x). Ran 50 passes of LinX and 8+ hours of Prime95 in-place large FFT's without a problem. Ran 3DMark06 and got a score of 10971







. The last time I ran 3DMark06 at 2.8 GHz, I got 11202, but the settings of the OC were different -- 216 MHz x 13 with HTT 5x. Did the higher HT Link speed make that much of a difference? If I were to set the HTT multi back up to 5x, my HT Link speed would be 1120 MHz at my current OC, requiring me to bump up the HTT voltage a bit. Would it be worth it? And how much of a bump do you think is required?

Did you tighten up your mem after you found your ceiling? Sorry, short term mem.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
That's a cool avatar and the other one was just fine as well. Of course I'm not a girl or gay so I'm not gonna judge you on your apearance.









That sword almost looks as tall as you.









I was thinking about taking a picture of my self on my parked quad standing up in a wheelie w/me sitting on it but then I got to thinking that might look kind of gay.







Besides I don't like posing for my self.









It's a little heavy. I wouldn't have bothered but I think that's the only picture I've had since the last one like 8 years ago.
I say go for it, If it doesn't look cool then don't upload it.







I'm thinking I might take the other pic and animate it. There's only 2 shots though and they are from slightly different angles so that might become a pain, but if I find I have nothing to do.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ciff1*


Lockups have occured just web browsing or in ms word, my son had a lockup after 1.5 hr of flatout ultimate carnage but temps were gpu 55c cpu 45 -48c.


Ciff1, as already suggested please download Memtest86+ and burn it to a CD. Boot directly to it and run tests 5 and 8 each for at least 20 minutes. All though your rig may have been fine for a while that doesn't go to say your memory isn't starting to failing. Make sure when running the diagnostic with memtest that you are running at stock settings (no overclock).

In regards to your power supply question, it's recommended that you test the power supply with a multimeter and not rely on software readings. A multimeter would provide you with more accurate readings. This guide is quite helpful if you do decide to test your PSU. Upon further research of your power supply it looks like your 12volt rail is only pushing 28Amps. That may not be enough for three hard drives and a 8800GT. Can anyone else verify Tagan's 480W specifications?.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


Ran 3DMark06 and got a score of 10971







. The last time I ran 3DMark06 at 2.8 GHz, I got 11202, but the settings of the OC were different -- 216 MHz x 13 with HTT 5x. Did the higher HT Link speed make that much of a difference? If I were to set the HTT multi back up to 5x, my HT Link speed would be 1120 MHz at my current OC, requiring me to bump up the HTT voltage a bit. Would it be worth it? And how much of a bump do you think is required?


Decimate, how many passes of 3DMark06 did you run? Will higher HT (Hypertransport) provide a better score? Maybe not...I'm not sure. The application is also dependent on your video card so such changes may not reflect anything...the best way to find out is to go ahead and test.

Just to clarify HTT is the reference clock speed









Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I believe he said it is 20 A per rail, 30 A combined.

Hypertransport will very slightly increase your score. I saw a 1% difference between 850 MHz and 1250 MHz. However, there is a a 2% difference between 800 MHz and 850 MHz, which is why I recommend not letting it get below 850 MHz.


----------



## nepas

I am looking to replace my dying opty,so after a look on ebay I find another 165,is this stepping any good?

Quote:

lcb9e 0646rpmw


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nepas* 
I am looking to replace my dying opty,so after a look on ebay I find another 165,is this stepping any good?

http://www.overclock.net/amd-cpus/20...sers-here.html


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nepas* 
I am looking to replace my dying opty,so after a look on ebay I find another 165,is this stepping any good?

LCB9E is a great stepping. They will USUALLY hit between 2.8-3.0GHz. It all is of course luck of the draw, but that's what I've seen most of them hit. I used to have an LCB9E 170, and it could hit 2.85GHz stable with 1.425v.

EDIT:
Of course I do believe Thinker had a 170 LCB9E that could do 3.0GHz on a crazy 1.34v. There were a few others that used to have that stepping that could do nearly the same, and some even hit 3.2GHz stable with them under water.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I believe he said it is 20 A per rail, 30 A combined.

Blitz, if this is the same power supply then I believe it's 28A on the +12volt rail (single rail).

Pio, I think mine was a LCBQE? I can't remember now haha. I sold it to Joe a few months back.

Joe, do you remember?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz, if this is the same power supply then I believe it's 28A on the +12volt rail (single rail).

Pio, I think mine was a LCBQE? I can't remember now haha. I sold it to Joe a few months back.

Joe, do you remember?

I could have sworn yours was an LCB9E. Mine was LCBQE, and if I remember correctly...yours was the inspiration for me to buy Froggy's LCB9E.


----------



## Blitz6804

My LCBIE did 2.8 GHz on 1.380 V (stock in the BIOS).

I believe this is the Tagon 480W-U15 that he has.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I could have sworn yours was an LCB9E. Mine was LCBQE, and if I remember correctly...yours was the inspiration for me to buy Froggy's LCB9E.

Pio, you know I think you might be right.

It was a pretty insane chip...3Ghz on stock voltage was very rewarding


----------



## BlackOmega

From what it seems all of the LCB*E stepping chips are pretty good overclockers. My LCB9E stepping 180 will hit 2.9 with no voltage increase, granted this also is dependent on the board its on. On my ultraD's it will do it @ 1.35v on my CFX3200 1.375v.

I'm sure I could get it to go higher, but I don't want to lap it (yet).
But if I decideto keep it, a lap will definitely be in its future.


----------



## thlnk3r

BlackOMega, yeah majority of the LCB*E's were great chips. I think I've seen a few that were not so great overclockers. Some also ran a little warmer then others. I've only had one LCB*E so I cannot say very much from experience.


----------



## Hueristic

I love mine and If I ever get a decent HS on it I'm willing to bet it'll do 3g. But It does everything I need it to do now so I'm pretty happy. I can't remeber which one mine is though, I think it's a "Q". I need some new brain cells.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I've had a few LCB9Es. Almost all of them were superb OCers.

thlnk3r's ex is an LCBQE. I think Omega Supreme has it right, too, that the VCore for super-high clocks (2.8GHz and beyond) depends on your motherboard (actually, I think it depends on your RAM and how it's set up). thlnk3r's ex is a great example of this. In my rig, it needs 1.4GHz to stay stable @ 3.0GHz (that's where I have it pegged at right now).

There is something to be said, though, about not starving the CPU of VCore when you've got it highly-OCed. I'll dig up the link from another forum which suggests that it's not healthy for the CPU to have too little VCore at high clocks, especially if you've got RAM running at high speed and @ high VDIMM. In such cases, it's better to slightly overvolt the CPU than to undervolt it.


----------



## decimator

Hmm, well I'm not sure what stepping my 185 is, but it sure as hell doesn't scale well with more vcore past 2.8 GHz...I can run 2.8 GHz with 1.375 vcore just fine, but at 2.9 GHz and above I haven't gotten the darn thing Prime95 stable yet, and that was with 1.48 vcore







. I'm not sure I can push vcore any higher because my temps would go nuts...I'm content to leave it at 2.8 GHz for now.

Oh, and I lowered the CPU multi to an integral number as per blitz's advice, so my new settings are 255 MHz x 11 (2805 MHz) @ 1.375 vcore with HT 4x (HT Link speed 1020 MHz). Ran through 50 passes of LinX fine and ran Prime95 in-place large FFT's for 8 hours without problems. Ran 3DMark06 and my score jumped almost 100 points from 10971 to 11070







. I don't know if that's because of the integral CPU multi or because of the higher HT Link speed (from 896 to 1020), but I like it.

EDIT: and I just installed my new 2GB kit of RAM, so I put everything back to stock







. These are Samsung UCCC modules, so we'll see what they can do.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

To be perfectly honest, I cannot tell the difference between 2.8GHz and 3.0GHz at the keyboard level.

The much more impressive enhancement per my experience is using RAID 0. Even at stock clocks, my sig rig felt unbelievably responsive and light on its feet. Mind you, I didn't do anything particularly CPU-intensive at that time (like DVD rips or burns, or games), but strictly on perceptible performance feel RAID 0 is amazing.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


Hmm, well I'm not sure what stepping my 185 is, but it sure as hell doesn't scale well with more vcore past 2.8 GHz...I can run 2.8 GHz with 1.375 vcore just fine, but at 2.9 GHz and above I haven't gotten the darn thing Prime95 stable yet, and that was with 1.48 vcore







. I'm not sure I can push vcore any higher because my temps would go nuts...I'm content to leave it at 2.8 GHz for now.

Oh, and I lowered the CPU multi to an integral number as per blitz's advice, so my new settings are 255 MHz x 11 (2805 MHz) @ 1.375 vcore with HT 4x (HT Link speed 1020 MHz). Ran through 50 passes of LinX fine and ran Prime95 in-place large FFT's for 8 hours without problems. Ran 3DMark06 and my score jumped almost 100 points from 10971 to 11070







. I don't know if that's because of the integral CPU multi or because of the higher HT Link speed (from 896 to 1020), but I like it.

EDIT: and I just installed my new 2GB kit of RAM, so I put everything back to stock







. These are Samsung UCCC modules, so we'll see what they can do.


Sounds like you found you sweet spot! Samsung makes great IC's so I'm sure you'll be happy with the results.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


To be perfectly honest, I cannot tell the difference between 2.8GHz and 3.0GHz at the keyboard level.

The much more impressive enhancement per my experience is using RAID 0. Even at stock clocks, my sig rig felt unbelievably responsive and light on its feet. Mind you, I didn't do anything particularly CPU-intensive at that time (like DVD rips or burns, or games), but strictly on perceptible performance feel RAID 0 is amazing.










STOP it! Don't get me thinking raid! Arrgh.


----------



## Blitz6804

Hueristic: Let me turn you away from RAID. If you overclock a bit too far, it is very easy to trash the RAID and lose all your data. This is why I eventually got rid of it until such time that I can go RAID 10.

decimate: If it helps you any, I ran my Toledo at the exact settings you are now. That is, 11x255, 4x HT, DDR-333 (thereby being DDR-400). If you only have two DIMMs, unlike my four, you might be able to run it at DDR-400, that being DDR-510.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Hueristic: Let me turn you away from RAID. If you overclock a bit too far, it is very easy to trash the RAID and lose all your data. This is why I eventually got rid of it until such time that I can go RAID 10.










Yeah, If I went raid on my personal system I would at least use a parity drive.

Back in VLB days I had 4 drives spanned with 4mb cache. That was one wild card!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Aha, but see, my dear Blitzy, that's precisely why I take such painstaking precautions when it comes to OCing. It's fairly easy to tell if your settings are so far off that you'll risk nuking your OS with a bad OC if you take the proper steps.









I am adamant in the performance benefit of RAID 0. In fact, I even considered running RAID 0 with a minimum OC with this machine. For its intended use, it would still be a fast, ultra-responsive and agile rig.

The lure of a 3.0GHz rig was too strong to resist, though...


----------



## scutzi128

lol just yesterday I was able to oc my 4 year old 3500+ to 2.55ghz


----------



## decimator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *scutzi128* 
lol just yesterday I was able to oc my 4 year old 3500+ to 2.55ghz

Newcastle or Winchester? If it's a Winchester, I believe you should be able to go higher than that without problems







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Fellas, here's the link I alluded to earlier regarding the dangers of running too low a VCore as related to the VDIMM you're running.

This is pertinent to most of us, since dual-cores (both Athlon64 X2s and dual-core Opterons) are E6 revision chips.


----------



## IK694

Athlon x2 64 3800+ @2.5ghz


----------



## IK694

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=626422


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *IK694* 
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=626422

Dude, you've got a Toledo...that sucker SHOULD be able to go quite a bit higher







.


----------



## Blitz6804

Joe: Manchesters are E4s, but that is still an "E revision" chip. Personally, I liked to keep my RAM at its rated 2.8 V, so I did not foresee any issues.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Joe: Manchesters are E4s, but that is still an "E revision" chip. Personally, I liked to keep my RAM at its rated 2.8 V, so I did not foresee any issues.

No they're not. My old Manchester was an E-6. As is DesertRat's Manchester.

EDIT:
Sorry about that, mine and DesertRat's Manchesters are both E-4's. Manchesters were released in E-6 revisions too though. The E-4 revisions generally clocked pretty decently (2.6-2.8GHz), the E-6 revisions are the ones that are usually topped out around 2.4-2.5GHz.


----------



## IK694

If I move up past 250.01 it blue screens on me


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Hueristic: Let me turn you away from RAID. If you overclock a bit too far, it is very easy to trash the RAID and lose all your data. This is why I eventually got rid of it until such time that I can go RAID 10.

Blitz, this can occur on a single drive. Regardless if it's Raid 5 or Raid 10 it's still going to happen. If you properly test your overclocks then it shouldn't be a problem and why turn someone away from Raid? The performance benefits of any Raid setup are very beneficial. Have you ever ran a Raid with a couple of *10k* drives?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Fellas, here's the link I alluded to earlier regarding the dangers of running too low a VCore as related to the VDIMM you're running.

Joe, thanks that was an interesting read









Quote:


Originally Posted by *IK694* 


Athlon x2 64 3800+ @2.5ghz

IK694, welcome to OCN and the S939 club









I've added you to the roster with your overclock.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *IK694* 
If I move up past 250.01 it blue screens on me

You've got all four RAM slots filled, and you are running at 208MHz (DDR416). Of course it'll blue screen after that...939 memory controllers can't handle 4 DIMM's at above DDR333 (by stock values).

Try dropping your memory down another divider and try for more. I'm betting that your memory is just too high since you've got 4GB in there.


----------



## IK694

Thanks for the info Ill give it a try. Hopefully Ill be back at 2.7 or above


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *IK694* 
Thanks for the info Ill give it a try. Hopefully Ill be back at 2.7 or above









I also didn't notice this before...but you're also running mixed RAM (Corsair and Kingston). That's also REALLY hard on the memory controllers...especially with 4 sticks installed. I would definitely suggest you lower your RAM frequency down another divider if you want to get more CPU speed out.

And of course, you really won't notice a real world difference between DDR333 and DDR400 anyway (only in benchmarks does the difference become noticeable).


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


The lure of a 3.0GHz rig was too strong to resist, though...


































Quote:



Originally Posted by *scutzi128*


lol just yesterday I was able to oc my 4 year old 3500+ to 2.55ghz












Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Fellas, here's the link I alluded to earlier regarding the dangers of running too low a VCore as related to the VDIMM you're running.

This is pertinent to most of us, since dual-cores (both Athlon64 X2s and dual-core Opterons) are E6 revision chips.


THX Joe, Good read. Glad I'm not one for overvolting mem much (or anything for that matter







).


----------



## IK694

No Go man, Was able to boot into windows but not able to run CPUID windows loaded up cpuid was able to start loading then restart.

Config was

275*10
cpuVoltage: 1.3675
DRAM Settings
200 Mhz (i have 5 choices and only thing lower than 333mhz was 286 or 200
DRAM Voltage Auto

Also Tried at 1.4V for CPU no dice.


----------



## Blitz6804

Try 10x260, DDR-286, 3-4-4-8, just for sake of argument.


----------



## IK694

alright give me a min any suggestions on voltage for the CPU and DRAM


----------



## IK694

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=626473

2.6ghz


----------



## IK694

had to drop HT to X3 should I attempt Higher?


----------



## IK694

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=626484

Was able to get 2.6 to stay moving back to 333mhz in the bios with HTX3


----------



## simfreak47

Looks good, try lowering your RAM though, its a bit high at 434MHz...

Good luck


----------



## IK694

where do you see 434 mhz?


----------



## IK694

Overclocked the GPU for good measure








http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=626505


----------



## decimator

Well, now that I got 2 gigs of memory, I think I can finally move on to Vista now







. Benchmarking will take a hit, but so be it.


----------



## IK694

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=626505

was able to move HT back to X4 for FSB of 1040mhz


----------



## Blitz6804

decimate: Unless you have 4 GB, keep XP. The sweet spot for XP is 2 GB, the sweet spot for Vista is around 3-3.5 GB. With only 2 GB, Vista will be intolerable. (I got a laptop with Vista and 2 GB; one week later, I bought new RAM for it.)

IK694: DDR is dual-pumped. That is, 217.4 MHz actual is 434.8 MHz effective.


----------



## IK694

got ya thanks i always forget


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOMega, yeah majority of the LCB*E's were great chips. I think I've seen a few that were not so great overclockers. Some also ran a little warmer then others. I've only had one LCB*E so I cannot say very much from experience.


Know I'm a little behind in the thread but have alot going on so I'll jump in as I can.

Normally these steppings are good clockers but I've had at least one dud in the bunch.

It was a 4000+ San Diego LCB9E that always ran hot, woudn't go past 2.9GHz to save it's life while cranking the volts to it. Even after popping the top, it still ran hot so eventually traded it off.

The guy who got it eventually hit 3.0 but no more with it, doing the same basic stuff I was doing to it. My 165 LCB9E is one of the good ones even though it runs warmer that I'd like it to but all things considered, I can't complain. 
Still love the X2 (LCBQE) for obvious reasons and the 4000+ that's gone over 3.4 (LCB9E). Personally I believe the best OC'ing results I've seen on average with Opty's come from the 175's and my 175 (LCB9E) is a pretty good chip itself.

Also have a pair of LCBBE 4000+ chips that seems to do close to what the newer stepping chips can do.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *IK694*


http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=626505

was able to move HT back to X4 for FSB of 1040mhz


IK694, good work! Have you tried dropping the memory divider to see if that allows for some more OC'ing room with your processor? By the way I added your updated overclock to the roster.

Kryton, yeah it's interesting how some of the LCB*E's can be duds. I think Joe currently has one that runs a tad hotter then others. Perhaps he can clarify. I guess that always goes back to our, "no processor is created equal" saying









Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

thlnk3r, I think that also falls under the "steppings are not a guarantee of overclocking results" maxim.


----------



## IK694

I will try that tonight and go for more clock speed after work but right now im pretty happy with extra 100mhz and the ram being faster than it was at 2.5 Ghz. Thanks for the help everyone. will post new results tonight.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *IK694*


I will try that tonight and go for more clock speed after work but right now im pretty happy with extra 100mhz and the ram being faster than it was at 2.5 Ghz. Thanks for the help everyone. will post new results tonight.


















http://www.overclock.net/specs.php?do=addsystem


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *IK694* 
I will try that tonight and go for more clock speed after work but right now im pretty happy with extra 100mhz and the ram being faster than it was at 2.5 Ghz. Thanks for the help everyone. will post new results tonight.

IK694, sounds like a plan. Have you thought about performing any stability testing at that clock speed yet? For stress testing check out OCCT. I usually run a quick 1 hour test to make sure everything is alright before I push any further. When I think I've reached my max I'll then run a longer test. OCCT will also provide graphs after the testing is complete. Those are quite helpful.

Keep us updated

Good luck


----------



## IK694

I havent really the way I see it that is now my Media center rig so if its still on when I get home from work I think it will be good. lol not using it for gaming anymore got the X58 Rig for that.


----------



## IK694

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=628053

2.651ghz

I think thats all I can get with this cooler, Voltage for CPU is at 1.4V and temps are fluctuating between 42 and 46 degrees. I know the low end of the temp limit is about 48 so im real close.

Core 1 44
Core 2 39


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *IK694*


http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=628053

2.651ghz

I think thats all I can get with this cooler, Voltage for CPU is at 1.4V and temps are fluctuating between 42 and 46 degrees. I know the low end of the temp limit is about 48 so im real close.

Core 1 44
Core 2 39










I run my opty up to 60-65 under load.


----------



## decimator

Well, against my better judgement, I went and installed Vista again. I dunno why I decided to do it. I think I just like the sleekness of Aero and just the overall aesthetic appeal (I know, I'm shallow, so drown me







). Everything runs fine up until I try and run 3DMark Vantage and I get that dreaded 'atikmdag' error. People have been raising hell about this error since Vista first came out. I tried everything there was to try to solve this, but nothing worked. This was the only 3D application I tried to run since I installed Vista. I made a thread about this in the ATi section of the forum and some people have been saying artifacting may be the culprit, but I sincerely doubt it because I ran games fine in WinXP. Then a previous owner of a 2900XT told me he had the same problem and he believed that it stemmed from DX10 applications. He said playing DX9 games was no problem, but DX10 was always problematic. I have a hunch that the same is true for me. I don't really have any DX10 games, so this doesn't affect me too much, but not being able to run through 3DMark Vantage kind of annoys me. Not to mention the fact that "DX10" is plastered all over the retail boxes of the 2900XT's that I have







. I'm gonna download and play some TF2 later. If everything runs fine, then DX10 is to blame. Hopefully I'll be able to run DX11 with these cards...


----------



## Hueristic

If you have the boxes and The card is incompatible with DX10 then return them. That falls under false advertising law.


----------



## Blitz6804

Try another version of CCC? I know you might get a slight performance decrease, but I noticed that they completely redesigned the GUI for CCC 9.7, maybe something has changed under the hood as well.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *IK694* 
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=628053

2.651ghz

I think thats all I can get with this cooler, Voltage for CPU is at 1.4V and temps are fluctuating between 42 and 46 degrees. I know the low end of the temp limit is about 48 so im real close.

Core 1 44
Core 2 39

IK694, looking good buddy. Have you tried dropping the memory divider yet? You might be getting close to the limits of your memory at 221Mhz. Dropping the memory divider would lower that speed and give you some more overclocking room with your processor. if your memory frequency is too high then you may run into instability issues. Have you attempted to find the limits of each component yet? That will give you with a nice baseline to work with. Also as mentioned earlier by Hue, those full load temperatures are perfectly fine. I wouldn't worry about 46C full load. Try to keep both cores at or below 60C.

Decimate, have you tried just the display driver? I'm assuming that probably doesn't work if you're shooting for two video cards in Crossfire? Try driver version 8.6 through 8.12.

Hope that helps


----------



## decimator

Will do, but for now, I've narrowed it down to just DX10 giving me problems. Played TF2 for over an hour and had no problems. Interesting...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


Played TF2 for over an hour and had no problems. Interesting...


Decimate, I guess that answers your DX10 inquires


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Decimate, I guess that answers your DX10 inquires










I guess so, but it's rather annoying seeing as how when the 2900XT first came out, ATi was pushing it as their DX10 pioneer...So much for that.

On another note, my CPU is severely bottlenecking my video cards. When a lot of players are on-screen in TF2, my framerate has fallen to as low as 30 fps







.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 
On another note, my CPU is severely bottlenecking my video cards. When a lot of players are on-screen in TF2, my framerate has fallen to as low as 30 fps







.

To give you a quick bit of advice.

100% Maxed TF2 on 1920x1440 I get around 75 FPS average, and a low of 45, and a max of 90.
That's with an HD2900Xt setup, and the 8.9 drivers.
That's also using my 3.4ghz Kuma CPU.
And I hate to say, but from what I've seen, if you want higher min FPS you'll need a quad core.

But the K8 CPU's definitely get maxed out on TF2, it wasn't strange for me to run both of those and my x2 4000+ and have my cores maxed out at 100% load and sit at 50% load half the time.

Source engine is a very good, very scalable engine, but sadly, it's still and older design, so the CPU load gets very heavy when it comes to it's combat calculations.


----------



## decimator

Yeah, I figured as much...Now to start planning my next upgrade







.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


Yeah, I figured as much...Now to start planning my next upgrade







.


I can boost my Average FPS to 60 if I slap in a Phenom x4 9850 Black Edition @ 3.3ghz. (a huge overclock for that chip.)

I ended up selling that chip as I didn't want/need it.

Multi Core + the added Multi-Core rendering was a huge boost for most source games. And honestly, at this point, if you have a $800 budget for a rig, quad is the way to go, as it'll boost your min FPS by alot, and it doesn't matter if you max out at 300 if you drop to 14 when things get explosive.


----------



## BlackOmega

Well its about time they made it multicore capable. For the longest time TF2 was stuck to a single core. I don't get too many problems with pretty much any game. The only thing that sucks is my 3dmark score. Come NOV. I'll take care of that.

Another thing that popped into my head about the source engine that I noticed just last week. A 32 man server that I usually played upped to a 44 man server. Now I've played on 44 man server, hell 64man servers, but I noticed on this particular server it started to lag badly. I looked at my framerates and they were kind of low. After that I went on a 64 man server and saw a constant 100+ fps and damn near 200 with little to no action. 
At any rate, I've come to the conclusion that servers that have too many slots open for players lag and give you poor frame rates. I believe this is a 2 part issue, 1 being bandwidth (server) and the other, the server simply can't handle that many players at once. 
So decimate, I'd say try playing on a few different servers with lots of players and see if you're consistently getting bad FPS.

And now for my stuff, had my final today, hope it went well. IF you guys want a taste of what I am studying take this test. Thats the easiest one. That is one of my actual exams word for word.

Now for my 939 issue, every time I start my rig I keep getting this popup at startup saying that ctfmon.exe had an error and that its not a valid image. WTH?









Any ideas?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Omega Supreme, if you're running MS Office, this might be of interest to you.









If you don't have MS Office, give this a read.

Good luck.


----------



## decimator

Yeah, multi-core rendering does help. There's also a bunch of other tweaks you guys might not know about, like:

mat_queue_mode 2
r_threaded_renderables 1
r_threaded_particles 1

and a bunch of others I can't remember off the top of my head.


----------



## Hueristic

BO, run this from a command prompt.
SFC /SCANNOW


----------



## BlackOmega

ok ran it, I'm not sure if it did anything. I had to leave it to go and







with the wife.

Thanks for that link Joe.







I disabled it.


----------



## thlnk3r

Good call Tator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 
When a lot of players are on-screen in TF2, my framerate has fallen to as low as 30 fps







.

Decimate, I'll be honest when I had my 4850 and my Opteron 170 @ 3Ghz I was getting as low as 30FPS too. This was with 1680x1050 resolution, everything on High and 2x AA. Tator has a good point about the game being more cpu intensive. I saw big gains performance wise ingame after overclocking my processor.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Who thinks my Avatar is Happy?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Who thinks my Avatar is gay?

Is this a race? Then me! I think its gey!









Did I win anything?


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Is this a race? Then me! I think its gey!









Did I win anything?

You won one internet


----------



## Blitz6804

I do not think so, but I think the angle should be a bit lower... I am unsure about the "Ouchies in 3...2...1..."


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *simfreak47* 
You won one internet

YEAH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I OWN 1 internet BISHES! YEAH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## N2Gaming

Uh, You get a brownie button BO Supreme.


----------



## decimator

Uh, N2...that's a fast CPU you got there...


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


Uh, N2...that's a fast CPU you got there...


















 Not really considering the hype that it should be able to hit 4.0 on air. I have had it suicided to 37xxMHz but run it at stock values of 3000MHz normally. I don't like to run my system or cpu's overclocked. I try to get by w/my stuff at stock spd's and when I can no longer play modern games w/it then I may have to overclock it to 35xxMHz but I am not able to keep it stable at 3.6MHz atm. I should change it huh. Goes to change it now.


----------



## Blitz6804

I have not hit 4.0 GHz yet I can tell you that much. As fast as I took it was 3600 MHz, which was too warm to pass S&M, and went no further. Perhaps some day I will try to suicide up a bit.


----------



## N2Gaming

I guess you could say it's fast when compared to a duel core AMD but when compared to a hyperthreaded Core 2 Duo quad core i7 it does not produce the same numbers. It holds it's own for sure though. I like it.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I guess you could say it's fast when compared to a duel core AMD but when compared to a hyperthreaded Core 2 Duo quad core i7 it does not produce the same numbers. It holds it's own for sure though. I like it.









Nice clock with the X4 N2 but you really need a better cooler than you have if you want to keep temps down.
The Zalman 7000 CNPS isn't a bad one for single core chips or perhaps dual cores but DC chips tend to push it's limit. I have three of them around, one being an all copper unit and even it seems to be hard-pressed at times to keep the CPU cool.
Try using a stock Opty cooler like I'm using and see if that helps. True, I have three instead of four cores producing heat but I believe the Opty cooler is a little better than the Zalman. I do plan on upgrading my cooling for this chip soon enough - Perhaps a little H2O action.

BTW, my Zalmans are the type that has it's fins in a "Flower" pattern and are the 92mm units.


----------



## Hueristic

Nice Avy N2! I to don't OC until necessary. That's how I get away with running old gear. Also the overhead on your system plays a huge role. I've seen people with 80-100 processes wondering why their blistering OC was slow.









My stripped down XP runs 15 processes, With everything running a game in the background and Folding I'm at 37 right now (Which is pretty high for me but been lazy latley







).


----------



## decimator

LOL, I think you missed the joke, N2







. It says 3.6 *MHz*, not GHz.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


LOL, I think you missed the joke, N2







. It says 3.6 *MHz*, not GHz.


But it's a *fast* 3.6MHz....


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Nice clock with the X4 N2 but you really need a better cooler than you have if you want to keep temps down.
The Zalman 7000 CNPS isn't a bad one for single core chips - Perhaps a little H2O action.

Thanks, I have the 9700 CNPS not 7000 CNPS and it does pretty good actually. My temps rarely get over 55 full load and that's on a hot day... I do plan on using H2O some day in the near foreseable future.








Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Nice Avy N2! I to don't OC until necessary. That's how I get away with running old gear. Also the overhead on your system plays a huge role. I've seen people with 80-100 processes wondering why their blistering OC was slow.









My stripped down XP runs 15 processes, With everything running a game in the background and Folding I'm at 37 right now (Which is pretty high for me but been lazy latley







).

Thanks, yeah perhaps I should look into finding the processes that are absolutely neccessary and turn all the other processes off at start up from MS config. I don't know if I can get it down to 37 but I may give it a shot some day.








Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 
LOL, I think you missed the joke, N2







. It says 3.6 *MHz*, not GHz.

Totally yes I did







Good catch...

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
But it's a *fast* 3.6MHz....


----------



## Kryton

My bad for misreading the model you have N2. It will do better on water as you know already regardless of what Zalman model you have.


----------



## N2Gaming

Yeah I plan on running H2O Kryton but my money is tight atm Heck it's almost non existent.









I may make a cpu block out of an old amd block and some plastic/glue/fittings for testing purposes.

I have recently thought I'd be a good candidate for Machining school.

Who knows I may turn out My own CNC milled H2O coolers for chipset/CPU/GPU/Mosfet in the future.

The future's so bright I gotta wear shades...

Edit: I would like to have a H2O loop on the bench for bench testing all my cpu's.


----------



## Hueristic

MHZ, I didn't even notice









Funny thing is I try to remember memory speed on some dimms dipps and I can't remember if it was Ms or Ns (had to be ms) I think. Lol

Edit: Hah, I even remembered the chip type wrong!







I needs a new memory!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Nice Avy N2! I to don't OC until necessary. That's how I get away with running old gear. Also the overhead on your system plays a huge role. I've seen people with 80-100 processes wondering why their blistering OC was slow.









My stripped down XP runs 15 processes, With everything running a game in the background and Folding I'm at 37 right now (Which is pretty high for me but been lazy latley







).


 Im at 35 processes ATM (thats with taskmanager, steam and firefox running). And I'll be damned but ATi has like 5+ background processes. Nvidia only had 2 including precision.

When I strip it down I get it to ~ 19 processes. Theres so much background :turd:. Thats a main reason I haven't "upgraded" to Vista, I couldn't stand 80 processes running. Well that and I don't want to pay for a new OS,


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Thats a main reason I haven't "upgraded" to Vista, I couldn't stand 80 processes running. Well that and I don't want to pay for a new OS,













































:cheer s:









Here's the only 2 I could find.

Think I was trying to figure out why I had 2 volume procs running.


I was having a problem removing the application layer gateway service in this one.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Nice Avy N2!

Thanks Hue, how do you like it now?









I'm willing to bet you get a head ache looking at it.

The Avatar is not done yet but you can see where I'm going w/it.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Im at 35 processes ATM (thats with taskmanager, steam and firefox running). And I'll be damned but ATi has like 5+ background processes. Nvidia only had 2 including precision.

BlackOmega, that's pretty good. I usually have mine down to 28 processes with AV running. What ATI processes do you have running? If ATI Hotkey Poller something is one of them then that can be "Stopped". There's another one from ATI that is also useless that I disabled. If you're not printing anything then disable the spoolsv.exe (print spooler) service as well. Sames goes for the "Wireless Zero Configuration". Heck I guess we could go on forever on what to disable/stop ect









Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, that's pretty good. I usually have mine down to 28 processes with AV running. What ATI processes do you have running? If ATI Hotkey Poller something is one of them then that can be "Stopped". There's another one from ATI that is also useless that I disabled. If you're not printing anything then disable the spoolsv.exe (print spooler) service as well. Sames goes for the "Wireless Zero Configuration". Heck I guess we could go on forever on what to disable/stop ect









Good luck

I usually strip it down further than I have it bit been busy lately. But I believe that there are 2 instances of the driver running, 1 per card I assuming.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I usually strip it down further than I have it bit been busy lately. But I believe that there are 2 instances of the driver running, 1 per card I assuming.

BlackOmega, which services? They might be different then mine. I run just the display driver and not the CCC so yours may be way different perhaps.


----------



## scutzi128

Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 
Newcastle or Winchester? If it's a Winchester, I believe you should be able to go higher than that without problems







.

Its a winchester...I think my memory is holding me back but with some tweaking I may be able to go higher.


----------



## scutzi128

doesn't seem to want to go any higher then about 2.6ghz no matter how much v I throw at the core.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scutzi128*


doesn't seem to want to go any higher then about 2.6ghz no matter how much v I throw at the core.


Scutzi128, do you have any cpu-z screen shots you could share with us at that overclock? Perhaps you have a setting or two that needs adjustments









Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, which services? They might be different then mine. I run just the display driver and not the CCC so yours may be way different perhaps.

Well I've got 2 ati2evzz.exe's running, I'm assuming that is the driver. CCC, and MOM are also part of the ATi bundle, then I got 2 saitek processes, KB and joystick. I also have coretemp and smartguardian and the ULi sata RAID controller running. I think steam starts up a lot more items than I thought, today I'm down to 30 processes including task manager.


----------



## Hueristic

When I used to run ATI cards I always removed every ati service. I noticed more BSOD from ATI services.

I don't see the need for them. It's not difficult to got display properties to access what's needed.

Of course I never crossfired (I tried AGP/PCI-E crossfire for S&G's) But the X850 agp's were mislabled as crossfire. I'd be surprised if any of the ATI services are needed. I know none of the Nvidia one's are.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


When I used to run ATI cards I always removed every ati service. I noticed more BSOD from ATI services.

I don't see the need for them. It's not difficult to got display properties to access what's needed.

Of course I never crossfired (I tried AGP/PCI-E crossfire for S&G's) But the X850 agp's were mislabled as crossfire. I'd be surprised if any of the ATI services are needed. I know none of the Nvidia one's are.










it's not very often I get driver related BSOD's regardless whether its ATi or nvidia.
Other than the driver, there really is no need for the services. I mainly run them to keep tabs on temps and fan speeds, as I've noticed most GPU manufacturers try to keep their cards quiet rather than cool. And of course they do this by leave the fan speed super low until the card almost overheats then they jam it @ 100% fan speed.


----------



## decimator

Well, I haven't touched my memory since I started on this overclocking escapade, but after playing some games and noticing some underwhelming performance, I figured I might as well start now. After reading up on the performance of Samsung UCCC, I was put quite at ease. I just set my mem divider back to 1:1, loosened my timings a bit, and started memtest86+. Currently running 255 MHz (DDR510) 3-4-4-8 1T @ 2.6 volts and have been running memtest86+ for over an hour. 33 passes of test 5 so far







. I'm going to see if I can tighten the timings a bit once this is done.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I think steam starts up a lot more items than I thought, today I'm down to 30 processes including task manager.










BlackOmega, oh really? I thought just "Steam.exe" was part of the application and that was it.

Upon further research it looks like "ati2evxx.exe" is part of the display driver for the video card adapter. Sounds like an essential device driver









Good luck


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


Well, I haven't touched my memory since I started on this overclocking escapade, but after playing some games and noticing some underwhelming performance, I figured I might as well start now. After reading up on the performance of Samsung UCCC, I was put quite at ease. I just set my mem divider back to 1:1, loosened my timings a bit, and started memtest86+. Currently running 255 MHz (DDR510) 3-4-4-8 1T @ 2.6 volts and have been running memtest86+ for over an hour. 33 passes of test 5 so far







. I'm going to see if I can tighten the timings a bit once this is done.


<3 Samsung. Good job soo far!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, oh really? I thought just "Steam.exe" was part of the application and that was it.

Upon further research it looks like "ati2evxx.exe" is part of the display driver for the video card adapter. Sounds like an essential device driver









Good luck


No *.exe is ever part of any driver, ever. All ATI* can be removed from services.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, oh really? I thought just "Steam.exe" was part of the application and that was it.

Upon further research it looks like "ati2evxx.exe" is part of the display driver for the video card adapter. Sounds like an essential device driver









Good luck


From what I can tell there were no other processes running that I didn't have running when I had 30. The only difference was steam.

PS: You guys like my new avatar? You guys know what it is?


----------



## Blitz6804

A guy with a lance on a Pegasus?

Gotta love Vista: I booted, opened Firefox, and checked my tasks. Currently, 110 with a very-light 40% RAM usage. (Trust me, 40% in Vista is light.)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


No *.exe is ever part of any driver, ever. All ATI* can be removed from services.


Hueristic, interesting...well I guess if it's disabled in services.msc and he starts experiencing issues with the OS at least we know what it is









Are you sure? I know obviously the .dlls ect are part of the device driver set but there are absolutely no other executables that are part of the video including the Catalyst control panel?

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *blitz6804*   A guy with a lance on a Pegasus?  
 Lol. nope. The guys that it is depicting were real, and probably the most feared cavalry during medieval times. The Polish winged hussars.










I guess they're supposed to be pretty badass in total war too.


----------



## Hueristic

I was thinking cossacks, where they the dude's that actually broke lances on panzers?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Are you sure? I know obviously the .dlls ect are part of the device driver set but there are absolutely no other executables that are part of the video including the Catalyst control panel?
Good luck

























Catalyst control panel is not part of the driver.


----------



## scutzi128

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Scutzi128, do you have any cpu-z screen shots you could share with us at that overclock? Perhaps you have a setting or two that needs adjustments









Good luck

Heres a SS. Also I have dropped the ht link and mem divider when increasing the clock to no avail. Thanks for any help.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Catalyst control panel is not part of the driver.


Hueristic, thanks for the clarification.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scutzi128*


Heres a SS. Also I have dropped the ht link and mem divider when increasing the clock to no avail. Thanks for any help.


Scutzi128, looking good buddy. I'm guessing you're running DDR400 memory? If so try dropping the memory divider down one notch (DDR 266). That should bring your memory frequency down and maybe allow you to push your processor a little further. You may also have to chance your HT multiplier from 4x to 3x. For socket 939, HT speeds above 1000Mhz can *sometimes* cause instability issues. What is the model number of your Kingston set?

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


I was thinking cossacks, where they the dude's that actually broke lances on panzers?


 Yep,







.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
























Catalyst control panel is not part of the driver.


 Yep, CCC is, I'm assuming, ATi's monitoring, overclocking software. Sort of like nvidias control panel.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scutzi128*


Heres a SS. Also I have dropped the ht link and mem divider when increasing the clock to no avail. Thanks for any help.


Jesus. I hope that voltage isnt a 24/7 clock. Electromigration much.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


Jesus. I hope that voltage isnt a 24/7 clock. Electromigration much.


theCanadian, true but Winchesters require quite a bit for even the littlest overclock. I played with a few in the past and they just did not want to OC at all


----------



## scutzi128

I don't really care much its way outdated and slow so if it goes no biggy. Its not a huge increase anyways from the 1.4v stock.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scutzi128*


I don't really care much its way outdated and slow so if it goes no biggy. Its not a huge increase anyways from the 1.4v stock.


Scutzi128, see my above post. We may be able to squeeze some more out of it









Good luck


----------



## jujdred

Holy shmoly this is a big thread. Where do i sign up?


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jujdred*


Holy shmoly this is a big thread. Where do i sign up?










Post up a validated CPU-Z reading and that will get you started.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Post up a validated CPU-Z reading and that will get you started.


Jujdred , as soon as you do that I'll include you on the roster









By the way welcome to overclock.net


----------



## scutzi128

It wont go any higher no matter what I do. I'm at the limit of the chip. Thanks for the help though. I guess I got a bad one. Anyways here's my validation.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=635072


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scutzi128*


It wont go any higher no matter what I do. I'm at the limit of the chip. Thanks for the help though. I guess I got a bad one. Anyways here's my validation.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=635072


Scutzi128, either way it's still a great OC









I've added you and your entry to the roster.

Good luck buddy


----------



## jujdred

Hope I did it right. and thanks tons.

Skyn'n'Bonz cpu-z starting point


----------



## Blitz6804

Thats the ticket jujdred... Joe or Thlnki3 will add you to the on-site roster soon; I will add you to the off-site one within the week.

BlackOmega: I should have known that; Hussars are a unit in Age of Empires II: the Conquerors.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Welcome to our Club, jujdred! Hope you can teach us as much as you can learn from us here.









OT: Feels weird to wear the mask and cowl of Scorpion again after a long absence. I am BACK from the Nether Realm!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


I was thinking cossacks, where they the dude's that actually broke lances on panzers?


 Oh are you talking WWII? If so, then no. The were around from 1576-1775. They were undefeated for over 100 years.
These were not the guys who charged tanks on horseback. Although some of those guys did actually take out a panzer or 2.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


BlackOmega: I should have known that; Hussars are a unit in Age of Empires II: the Conquerors.


 Come on now. I am disappointed in you Blitz.









j/k, when most people think of Poland they think of a weak country. During medieval times they were actually quite powerful and even captured Moscow. Neither Hitler nor Napoleon managed that feat.

When I was in Europe I saw a show where a former SS officer was speaking about the bravery, elusiveness, and craftiness of the Poles. He said that he would have rather fought 10 Russians than a single Pole.


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Welcome to our Club, jujdred! Hope you can teach us as much as you can learn from us here.









OT: Feels weird to wear the mask and cowl of Scorpion again after a long absence. I am BACK from the Nether Realm!










No for long, cuz Johnny Cage is gonna kick your arse







.


----------



## N2Gaming

I just want every ones eyes to get tired like mine get.







with yet another homegrown Animated Avatar


----------



## decimator

Ok, it's official...I love Samsung UCCC

















That's on stock voltage of 2.6 volts.


----------



## N2Gaming

Nice ram clocks. FTW


----------



## Blitz6804

Looking pretty win decimate... do you happen to know the bandwidth of such RAM?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

decimate, can you put me on your will for those UCCCs? Holy moly...









Either that, or you can give me your home address. Then I can show you the joys of home invasion robbery.


----------



## decimator

Thanks, everyone







.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Looking pretty win decimate... do you happen to know the bandwidth of such RAM?

Nope, I have no idea. I think I'll download SiSoft Sandra and let you know after I finish running through another 50 passes of LinX.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
decimate, can you put me on your will for those UCCCs? Holy moly...









Either that, or you can give me your home address. Then I can show you the joys of home invasion robbery.









LOL, sure I'll tell my lawyer to set these aside for you. Might be more worthwhile to just buy them off of Newegg for $60, though







.


----------



## Blitz6804

*Writes down will.* Okay... lets see, "UCCCs to Blitz..." have I got everything? *Hands will to decimate to sign.*

All joking aside, you can check read (but not write/copy) with the free version of Everest Ultimate; the full version is a scant $20.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Hueristic, thanks for the clarification.


NP.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Yep, CCC is, I'm assuming, ATi's monitoring, overclocking software. Sort of like nvidias control panel.


Yes, It's a common misconception that the companies that suply the drivers want you to think. I have no clue as to why? The driver should be less than a meg (much less) and the driver packages are 100mb bloated system strangling pieces of garbage. Wish I knew why they do this. Kind of like congress I think, If they are not adding stuff people will think they aren't working.


----------



## Blitz6804

There are some nice things (sometimes) in driver packages. For example, in the Creative drivers, the THX calibrations, audio converters, et cetera. For ATi, the CCC's ability to make an auto-clock profile may be hit or miss depending on your card's compatibility with RivaTuner. What is nice is the Avivo video converter, which is not included in the driver package, but is dependent on it as far as I know.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Yes, It's a common misconception that the companies that suply the drivers want you to think. I have no clue as to why? The driver should be less than a meg (much less) and the driver packages are 100mb bloated system strangling pieces of garbage. Wish I knew why they do this. Kind of like congress I think, If they are not adding stuff people will think they aren't working.
















Well I think they make the bloated software in such a way that you almost have to run it. I mean w/o CCC or nvidia control panel how would you enable SLI/crossfire?

And congress is most definitely "bloated system strangling pieces of garbage". Maybe a more applicable term for them would be whores. It seems to me that they all sell their asses to the highest bidder.









EDIT: Hue have you signed up for Aug. foldathon yet?


----------



## jujdred

OCZ EL DDR PC-4800 Dual Channel Platinum

from this review, and another of a similiar junction, I think i found my next toy. unless this is some sort of april fools joke.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jujdred* 
OCZ EL DDR PC-4800 Dual Channel Platinum

from this review, and another of a similiar junction, I think i found my next toy. unless this is some sort of april fools joke.

Dude I bet if you find that it will cost double or triple of what DDR3 costs today.


----------



## jujdred

wow. I learned more in 5 minutes to read this than in the past 5 days searching google. At least as far as I can comprehend at one time.
Noob guide to 939 oc


----------



## jujdred

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Dude I bet if you find that it will cost double or triple of what DDR3 costs today.


ugh. ill stick to value ram, for now, muwahahaha


----------



## decimator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jujdred* 
OCZ EL DDR PC-4800 Dual Channel Platinum

from this review, and another of a similiar junction, I think i found my next toy. unless this is some sort of april fools joke.

Are you getting a used set of those? Because nobody sells TCCD anymore...I've looked everywhere for the stuff without success.


----------



## jujdred

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Dude I bet if you find that it will cost double or triple of what DDR3 costs today.

funny i even looked. http://cgi.ebay.ph/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...m=150351891334

is php any sort of american currency? cuz a grand and a half is crazy.


----------



## TheSandman

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=635467

im in, got my 939 fixed thank god


----------



## decimator

I'll tell you what's even harder to find than TCCD, though...Winbond BH-5







. And I've got a kit of those babies.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jujdred* 
wow. I learned more in 5 minutes to read this than in the past 5 days searching google. At least as far as I can comprehend at one time.
Noob guide to 939 oc

Good for strictly the basics.

Some of the specifics are outdated, however.

We S939 holdouts might still be viable in terms of motherboard capabilities and CPU overclocking capability, but where we're really getting shafted is in the RAM department. DDR is pretty much dead as far as the chipmakers are concerned, so whatever is available these days will not be anything close to what we used to enjoy during the halcyon days of TCCD/BH-5/6/UCCC/Micron -5B D chips. Even Infineon/Aeneon has stopped manufacturing their superb (but flawed) CE-5/CE-6 ICs.

The major upshot is that we pay through the nose for the scrapings at the bottom of the barrel, while modern tech gets their kicks for cheap.


----------



## simfreak47

Hey guys I'm probably going to have another socket 939 system join the family soon







My mom already has one, and I might get another one to play around with sometime


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Cool beans, simfreak!

Please welcome TheSandman, our newest Club member.


----------



## simfreak47

Welcome, TheSandman


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jujdred*


funny i even looked. http://cgi.ebay.ph/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...m=150351891334

is php any sort of american currency? cuz a grand and a half is crazy.


 PHP= Philippine peso. That roughly equates to $31/$32. So that was actually pretty cheap. But is was only 2 x 512.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


The major upshot is that we pay through the nose for the scrapings at the bottom of the barrel, while modern tech gets their kicks for cheap.










That's an upshot? Sounds like a conclusory downshot to me.


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Good for strictly the basics.

Some of the specifics are outdated, however.

We S939 holdouts might still be viable in terms of motherboard capabilities and CPU overclocking capability, but where we're really getting shafted is in the RAM department. DDR is pretty much dead as far as the chipmakers are concerned, so whatever is available these days will not be anything close to what we used to enjoy during the halcyon days of TCCD/BH-5/6/UCCC/Micron -5B D chips. Even Infineon/Aeneon has stopped manufacturing their superb (but flawed) CE-5/CE-6 ICs.

The major upshot is that we pay through the nose for the scrapings at the bottom of the barrel, while modern tech gets their kicks for cheap.










Actually, before I bought this 2GB kit, I was browsing Newegg and you'd be surprised at what's still available on the market. There are still plenty of companies that still churn out DDR memory, it's just not that big a selection as it used to be. High-end performance IC's like TCCD and BH-5 are long gone, but there's still a few diamonds in the rough, all of them 2GB kits. Here's some that I came across:

OCZ Platinum w/ Infineon BE-5
Kingston HyperX w/ Infineon BE-5
A-DATA w/ Samsung UCCC <--- these are the ones I got up to 255 MHz 2.5-3-2-6 1T @ 2.6 volts








G.Skill w/ Infineon BE-5 + Brainpower PCB
Patriot w/ Infineon BE-5/6 + Brainpower PCB

LOL, actually now that I think about it...those A-DATA kits might be Infineon BE-5 as well...the list I used to track these IC's down is a rather old list and seeing as how everything else is Infineon BE-5, maybe A-DATA switched over too as some point in time...whatever, it still performs like a monster







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Those are definitely the last of what's available.

I'm actually shocked there is still some UCCCs available, though. Whether or not I'm curious enough to spend the $60.00 for the A-Data kit...


----------



## jujdred

well. i think im on the search for some new kits soon. this patriot i got dont do much for me. seems to be my bottleneck. and if i hadnt gotten my car towed and had to pay $500 to get it back, i might have done that today. sob. thanks for some great tips as to where to look and what to look for. made my day much easier. and might as well get em NOW, before the prices triple in a month.


----------



## Blitz6804

That proves Joe's point on price points... 2x1 GB DDR2-800 can be had starting at $20. The cheapest DDR-400 on that list was $62 if I remember it right.


----------



## TheSandman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Good for strictly the basics.

Some of the specifics are outdated, however.

We S939 holdouts might still be viable in terms of motherboard capabilities and CPU overclocking capability, but where we're really getting shafted is in the RAM department. DDR is pretty much dead as far as the chipmakers are concerned, so whatever is available these days will not be anything close to what we used to enjoy during the halcyon days of TCCD/BH-5/6/UCCC/Micron -5B D chips. Even Infineon/Aeneon has stopped manufacturing their superb (but flawed) CE-5/CE-6 ICs.

The major upshot is that we pay through the nose for the scrapings at the bottom of the barrel, while modern tech gets their kicks for cheap.










thats why I feel lucky that my DDR 1gb kit was able to be replaced with supertalent, maybe not the best ram, but it runs at 400mhz @ 2-2-2-5 so I dont complain, if only I could find another kit of it for under 80 bucks, id make it 2gigs


----------



## decimator

Here's another CPU-Z validation. I backed off my CPU OC because it just wasn't worth it to pump that amount of vcore into the chip for such a negligible gain in MHz.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=635497

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


That proves Joe's point on price points... 2x1 GB DDR2-800 can be had starting at $20. The cheapest DDR-400 on that list was $62 if I remember it right.


Well, the list I compiled was a truncated list and didn't have every single 2GB kit on Newegg on there, but you are correct, DDR memory is pretty darn expensive compared to DDR2...The cheapest 2GB DDR kit I could find was $57.99 from some no-name brand called AllComponents...


----------



## TheSandman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Cool beans, simfreak!

Please welcome TheSandman, our newest Club member.










thanks


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


The driver should be less than a meg (much less) and the driver packages are 100mb bloated system strangling pieces of garbage.


Hue, this is exactly why I prefer to not install the CCC package. The display driver is perfectly. There was a good point made though about enabling sli/crossfire. I suppose the catalyst control panel is needed for that. Most newer games allow for aa/af adjustments in-game so that is pretty cool.

Sandman, welcome to the S939 club









Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


Here's another CPU-Z validation. I backed off my CPU OC because it just wasn't worth it to pump that amount of vcore into the chip for such a negligible gain in MHz.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=635497


Decimate, that overclock is awesome









Both the processor and memory overclocks are just plain sick!!!

Good luck guys


----------



## N2Gaming

Welcome to the club goes out to all our most recent members from none other then me


----------



## thlnk3r

N2Gaming, your avatar is tripping me out


----------



## Blitz6804

Most games do have in-game settings yes. However, sometimes you wish to force a higher setting than the game can permit (Call of Duty 4: Modern Warfare for example tops out at 4x) and you need CCC for that.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Most games do have in-game settings yes. However, sometimes you wish to force a higher setting than the game can permit (Call of Duty 4: Modern Warfare for example tops out at 4x) and you need CCC for that.

Blitz, good point









Has anyone here given the Omega drivers a try? I haven't tried them since the late 8.x series.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Most games do have in-game settings yes. However, sometimes you wish to force a higher setting than the game can permit (Call of Duty 4: Modern Warfare for example tops out at 4x) and you need CCC for that.

You could also use ATi Tray Tools to force higher AF settings and the like.

This doesn't always work, however. On some systems that are otherwise stable, ATi Tray Tools can cause BSoDs.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, your avatar is tripping me out



















I was gonna make it a little more trippy but My eye's can only handle so much tweeking per sitting. I stopped at What you see for now.

It is what I would call a work in progress. I just learned how to use Animation in Photoshop so I'm having a little fun w/it for a while.

I have more idea's for the Avatar but if it is bothersome I can change it.


----------



## Blitz6804

Last I checked, Omega drivers did not work with Vista x64 Thlnk3r, so I have never used them.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 

Has anyone here given the Omega drivers a try? I haven't tried them since the late 8.x series.

For my friend & I, the Omega's work well on HD4000 cards (as I noted before, previous gen is going in a slump sadly)

They are fairly nice, the Mobil's are actually better than the ATi ones. But the standard desktop drivers are more or less the same between ATi & Omega's.

It usually comes down to a margin of 2%. So IMHO, it's not worth the wait or hassle.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Last I checked, Omega drivers did not work with Vista x64 Thlnk3r, so I have never used them.

Working on Vista 64bit just fine for me.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 
I'll tell you what's even harder to find than TCCD, though...Winbond BH-5







. And I've got a kit of those babies.

I got lucky and purchased new a set of TCCD sticks about a year ago at the Egg. These are Corsair XMS 3200XLPro sticks with the LED's. I also managed to purchased new a set of BH-5 Corsair XMS sticks too for next to nothing awhile back.
Sometimes the Egg will have these "Pop Up" without warning and they do go *Fast* when they do. I got lucky enough to place my order before these were sold out and it only took three hours for it to happen when it did. You guys already know about my OCZ PC 4400 Gold EL sticks.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Good for strictly the basics.

Some of the specifics are outdated, however.

We S939 holdouts might still be viable in terms of motherboard capabilities and CPU overclocking capability, but where we're really getting shafted is in the RAM department. DDR is pretty much dead as far as the chipmakers are concerned, so whatever is available these days will not be anything close to what we used to enjoy during the halcyon days of TCCD/BH-5/6/UCCC/Micron -5B D chips. Even Infineon/Aeneon has stopped manufacturing their superb (but flawed) CE-5/CE-6 ICs.

The major upshot is that we pay through the nose for the scrapings at the bottom of the barrel, while modern tech gets their kicks for cheap.









I did spot a set of GSkill with similar if not the same UCCD chips in them at the Egg and I have two sets of these:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231012

Still in stock and these will give some respectable speeds, esp for the money nowadays. I'm happy with the sets I have here but still nothing like the "Good" stuff.
These are good too and still in stock: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231047

These are still around too and yes, I have two sets of them also: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820227210

Can't leave these out either: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820220040

Yeah, I saw where decimate has these listed but now finding the links is easier if you want to get a set. You'd better before they are gone if wanting to do so.


----------



## Blitz6804

Am I just blind and cannot find a download button?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Am I just blind and cannot find a download button?


 Nope don't see Vista 64 drivers on there, just 32, xp/2000 and 98/me.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I mean w/o CCC or nvidia control panel how would you enable SLI/crossfire?
EDIT: Hue have you signed up for Aug. foldathon yet?

I just right click on the desktop and choose nvidia control panel. Alternately you can go into the panel from the display properties or from the control panel or you can just type nvcpl.cpl from a command line or from the run command (PhysX.cpl for physx and nvtuicpl.cpl for Nview), or you can create a shortcut to these files. I'm not sure about ATI as I've said Since GPU2 folding I've switched to solely nvidia (Which sux as I <3 ATI). But I'm positive you can enable crossfire without CCC. More than likely just a reg dword value. Just do a search on your *.cpl files and find the ATI ones. start them one at a time. Or google, either way you don't need the exe for anything except easy control, If your willing to pay the overhead 24/7 for the times you need to change a setting then that is a personal choice.

Also and of the ATI exe's can be started at anytime. So you can disable them at boot and start them whenever you want.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jujdred* 
...

























Quote:


Originally Posted by *TheSandman* 
...

























Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
...Omega[/URL] drivers a try? ..


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
For my friend & I, the Omega's work well on HD4000 cards (as I noted before, previous gen is going in a slump sadly)

They are fairly nice, the Mobil's are actually better than the ATi ones. But the standard desktop drivers are more or less the same between ATi & Omega's.

It usually comes down to a margin of 2%. So IMHO, it's not worth the wait or hassle.

I used to use Omega all the time, Great polished install, alot of removed bloat and highest performing stable DLL's. All these packages are made by trial and error. Swap a dll change the driver info and run your test, rinse repeat.

that would be why they take time to get released.









That and no-one's making money off them.

Also As I've stated repeatedly I'm not up on ATI, But I do understand driver structure from the first days of drivers (VESA standards anyone?). So that being said there are very strict rules that must be followed so don't believe anything company reps tell you look at the standards yourself if you don't believe me.


----------



## theCanadian

OMG, you changed your avatar!


----------



## jujdred

Me thinks me reached the max for this little time piece. I ran prime95 all night without a glitch at 238 fsb but as soon as I turned it up to 240, my bios went to safe mode and warned me to change it. Any ideas on how or why this would happen? Any way to get more out of it without compromising my memory and HT speeds?

Skyn'n'Bonz


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jujdred*


Any ideas on how or why this would happen? Any way to get more out of it without compromising my memory and HT speeds?


Jujdred, this could simply just be the limit of the processor. Even at 240HTT*12x you're still below 1000Mhz HT so that shouldn't be a problem. Have you tried loosening your memory sub-timings to 3-3-3-8? Are you running a command rate of 1T or 2T?

Good luck


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


OMG, you changed your avatar!


LMBO! Seems to surprise everyone how my looks have changed in 6 (*?) years, No-one seems to recognize me!


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jujdred*


Me thinks me reached the max for this little time piece. I ran prime95 all night without a glitch at 238 fsb but as soon as I turned it up to 240, my bios went to safe mode and warned me to change it. Any ideas on how or why this would happen? Any way to get more out of it without compromising my memory and HT speeds?

Skyn'n'Bonz


Have you tried finding your mobo's max HTT yet? You should probably do that to make sure it's not your mobo holding you back. Lower your CPU multi to 5x or something like that and see how high you can clock your HTT. You might need to raise your NB voltage, use a higher memory divider and a lower HTT multi along the way.


----------



## jujdred

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Jujdred, this could simply just be the limit of the processor. Even at 240HTT*12x you're still below 1000Mhz HT so that shouldn't be a problem. Have you tried loosening your memory sub-timings to 3-3-3-8? Are you running a command rate of 1T or 2T?

Good luck


I have not tried 3.3.3.8 yet. I am at 2t.
I see I am below 1000 Mhz, just not sure why from 238-240 HTT why it prompted a safe mode. I see my memory and HTT still have more headroom. I am stoked it is still staying so cool (52c max full throttle during prime95 runs) and not done yet. And I am finally starting to notice the speed differences. Everything seems so much more responsive but boot up is kinda slow.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


Have you tried finding your mobo's max HTT yet? You should probably do that to make sure it's not your mobo holding you back. Lower your CPU multi to 5x or something like that and see how high you can clock your HTT. You might need to raise your NB voltage, use a higher memory divider and a lower HTT multi along the way.


What he said


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


These are good too and still in stock: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231047


 I have a pair of these and I have yet to try to OC them.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


These are still around too and yes, I have two sets of them also: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820227210


I have a pair of these from 2005 and my set don't like to OC on stock voltage


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jujdred*


I have not tried 3.3.3.8 yet. I am at 2t.
I see I am below 1000 Mhz, just not sure why from 238-240 HTT why it prompted a safe mode. I see my memory and HTT still have more headroom. I am stoked it is still staying so cool (52c max full throttle during prime95 runs) and not done yet. And I am finally starting to notice the speed differences. Everything seems so much more responsive but boot up is kinda slow.


Jujdred, have you done stability testing at 238HTT if so is it stable? What kind of slow boot issues are you experiencing? For example, is it slow at POST or is it slow when it hits the Windows splash screen? Usually after I have found a stable OC that I am comfortable with I'll then reformat my machine and start off clean. Sometimes during testing I experience quite a few lockups/crashes and also boot up issues









Good luck


----------



## jujdred

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Jujdred, have you done stability testing at 238HTT if so is it stable? What kind of slow boot issues are you experiencing? For example, is it slow at POST or is it slow when it hits the Windows splash screen? Usually after I have found a stable OC that I am comfortable with I'll then reformat my machine and start off clean. Sometimes during testing I experience quite a few lockups/crashes and also boot up issues









Good luck


This is working VERY well. Thanks!

POST, just before the actual windows starts. Takes about a minute or more to get that far.

I have had 0 locks or freezes so far. Not sure if that is good or bad. I am running prime95 torture test right now for rest of the day at my current settings I just posted to see how well this works. It is working like a banshee now. I lost a little CPU speed but gained in memory/FSB speed and I think that made the difference. I could probably squeeze more out of here, she is a good girl, but AION beta is over for now for another 2 weeks so not much use in struggling to beat this horse too much until it gets back online so I can see how much of a difference these new tweaks make.

Thanks for the help and lets cross our fingers and toes to keep her stable. I'll test her on Requiem Bloodymare too but it's not nearly as intense as AION.

Anyone else here play Requiem or AION?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jujdred*


POST, just before the actual windows starts. Takes about a minute or more to get that far.


Jujdred, does it stall at the POST screen when it's looking for the drives?

Glad to hear the OC is so far working out for you









Good luck


----------



## jujdred

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Jujdred, does it stall at the POST screen when it's looking for the drives?

Glad to hear the OC is so far working out for you









Good luck


It stalls just after the POST menu, you know where it tells you all the drives and such. That part is fine, its AFTER that before windows actually loads. Just sits at a black screen for at least 60 seconds, sometimes longer, but has not been any shorter, yet.


----------



## Hueristic

jujdred, you need to run a surface test.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I have a pair of these and I have yet to try to OC them.


These could be the sleeper set you have N2. I have a set not unlike these that's rated well below what they can actually do. They also have similar low voltage specs.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I have a pair of these from 2005 and my set don't like to OC on stock voltage










My sets are the version 1's that don't like clocking very high but I've had alot of success with them. These being sold now are using a different chip and will go higher. Too bad I'm not really looking for more big sticks of DDR or even have the $$'s to get them if I were. 
I went on a RAM buying rampage last year in anticipation of good sets going away and got several, mainly Corsair sets but also got a few others. I definitley have enough RAM to last for some time to come here.


----------



## Blitz6804

jujdred: For sake of fun, have you tried disabling the GUI boot? That is, instead of having the black screen with the little scrolly bar, do you just have a static image? This tends to save time on a Vista boot. (Note: you'll want to turn GUI boot back on if you do a disc check, else, you will not get a status display.)


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


These could be the sleeper set you have N2. I have a set not unlike these that's rated well below what they can actually do. They also have similar low voltage specs.


 I sure hope so.

We prolly have the same OCZ IC's.


----------



## jujdred

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


jujdred: For sake of fun, have you tried disabling the GUI boot? That is, instead of having the black screen with the little scrolly bar, do you just have a static image? This tends to save time on a Vista boot. (Note: you'll want to turn GUI boot back on if you do a disc check, else, you will not get a status display.)


have not even considered it. How would I go about doing said?


----------



## Blitz6804

Windows key + R (or Run... from the start menu, or type msconfig in the start menu search box)
Type "msconfig" and hit enter
Hit "OK" on the UAC prompt
On the boot tab, check "No GUI boot"
Hit "OK"
Restart PC
If you reopen, you will notice the general tab shows you in a selective startup; if it worked, check "make all boot settings permanent" if you wish to keep it, or select normal startup to revert.

As an aside: "I am da law!" </STALLONE>


----------



## N2Gaming

Kryton, you know I think your right about the G Skill kit of ram. I was able to get those ram chips up to DDR570 w/2.63v at 3.3.3.8.12.2T " I have not tried 1T yet. Of course it does not hurt any that I'm using them in my DFI Expert mobo w/the Opty 180.


----------



## TheSandman

got a lil more speed, hoping to get that DFI LP board PCnerd is selling to go higher this is as high as this ECS will allow

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=637300


----------



## jujdred

Do you guys think superfetch is slowing my computer down? seems a big resource hog and not sure if it is worth it.

I'm trying that no gui boot now. thanks.


----------



## N2Gaming

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=637312 = One of the DFI Experts mobo's w/my Opty 180


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jujdred*


Do you guys think superfetch is slowing my computer down? seems a big resource hog and not sure if it is worth it.


Jujdred, I'd recommend not disabling it. Superfetch preloads most frequently used applications in memory making boot-up times and normal access times to those applications "quicker" (allegedly). It's sort of like "prefetch" in Windows XP. If you must try disabling it and see if you get any performance gains. It's always worth testing









How old is your Windows Vista install?

Good luck


----------



## Hueristic

Corsair Rox.

http://forum.corsair.com/forums/show...d=1#post410850

Now to see how my crucial rma goes. If I ever get up the ambition to start it.


----------



## Blitz6804

jujdred: In my opinion, unless you have 8 GB of RAM, Superfetch will slow you down. With 4 GB of RAM, my computer feels more sluggish with it on than with it off. It works well in Windows 7, but in Windows Vista, it is a liability more than an asset. (It may also be a good idea to disable the ReadyBoost service if you are not using Superfetch, USB devices will be recognized much faster if you do.)


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Corsair Rox.

http://forum.corsair.com/forums/show...d=1#post410850

Now to see how my crucial rma goes. If I ever get up the ambition to start it.










 woo hoo for yoo hoo.









The crucial's if memory serves me correct you have the2x1024 DDR500. If this is the case, then I think your gonna be for identical replacements. They will be able to get you a pair of DDR400 but the last time I talked to then to help me get mine set up w/the correct timings and voltages they told me they don't make DDR500 any more. I think DDR500 was an outdated apple / Mac standard.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


...

The crucial's if memory serves me correct you have the2x1024 DDR500. ...


Wow, you have a good memory! I forget my own stuff now and you know what it is! It's DDr2 667 I think. I'll have to recheck. I've got them running at 400 right now and loosened the timings up to staggering slack timings and seem to have it stable enough to fold for now. Too much RL stuff right now to worry about rma's.









I've still gotta find the time to try repairing that 9800GX2 again.


----------



## N2Gaming

Yeah it seems like the more hardware I get the more I have problems.









I guess it's a numbers thing. The more hardware you have then your chances of having hardware that failz also goes up.

Good Luck on the 9800GX2. I just tried to fix a 8800GTS 640MB that I got on ebay per your advice and it did not work on the first try. So I'm gonna try again w/a little more heat.







If that don't work then I'll try it a 3rd and final time w/even more heat.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Yeah it seems like the more hardware I get the more I have problems.









I guess it's a numbers thing. The more hardware you have then your chances of having hardware that failz also goes up.

Good Luck on the 9800GX2. I just tried to fix a 8800GTS 640MB that I got on ebay per your advice and it did now work on the first try. So I'm gonna try again w/a little more heat.







If that don't work then I'll try it a 3rd and final time w/even more heat.


BBQ that baby! GL


----------



## BlackOmega

O snap, I think I might have to make an annoying animated avatar!
Not as annoying as your first animated one N2.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


O snap, I think I might have to make an annoying animated avatar!
Not as annoying as your first animated one N2.


















Yeah I guess if some one don't know my user name then they will after seing my avatar.


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, it encouraged me to make one better than the little shocked guy... thing creeped even me out too much. (If you do not see my av, it should be lightning bolts.)


----------



## theCanadian

When you bake a GPU, isnt it 385 degrees for 5 minutes?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 
When you bake a GPU, isnt it 385 degrees for 5 minutes?

I was under the impression 10 min. That reminds me to try it again. I'll set my oven to 400 this time and hope it works.


----------



## Blitz6804

Jago-Vs-Fulgore advocates removing the heatsink and baking at 385Âº F for 10 minutes, followed by a 20-minute rest.


----------



## simfreak47

Just a SF47 update: new card is coming tomorrow


----------



## thlnk3r

My broken down 1950Pro is still awaiting repair. All the SMT caps are bulged...I'm waiting on my buddy to hook me up with the needed parts for the repair


----------



## Blitz6804

Congrats Simfreak47; the 8800 GTX is a monster of a card.

thlnk3r: you are going to post a work log for that right? I think Hueristic might have posted a few pics on the subject a while ago, but I am too lazy to look right now.

(I am taking the MPRE in about two hours. That is, the Multistate Professional Responsibility Examination; essentially, the "ethics test" for lawyers. I must pass it before I can take my bar exam.)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


thlnk3r: you are going to post a work log for that right? I think Hueristic might have posted a few pics on the subject a while ago, but I am too lazy to look right now.


Blitz, more than likely yes









Good luck on the test!


----------



## Blitz6804

It was no fun; absolutely no fun at all.

I will find out how I did in five weeks or so.


----------



## N2Gaming

Yes Blitz Good Luck on the Test. You'll do just fine...









Edit:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


It was no fun; absolutely no fun at all.

I will find out how I did in five weeks or so.


 five weeks







Man they really don't want any new lawyers any time soon.







That is a long time to wait for results especially when you have to wait for that to take the Bar exam.


----------



## Blitz6804

Oh, its not an issue; I will not be taking the bar until July of next year... I do not even want to think of that right now. (-_-)

Has your baking worked?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Oh, its not an issue; I will not be taking the bar until July of next year... *I do not even want to think of that right now.*


Blitz, come on man be happy. You're guaranteed a job right? That's better then what most people have right now


----------



## Blitz6804

Not really; many law firms are downsizing. What is worse, since I want to go into a District Attorney's office, I cannot even start applying for jobs until I am admitted to the Bar. (Private practice, you usually get a tentative job, and it is made permanent once you pass.)


----------



## decimator

Well, I reseated my CPU cooler today to try and lower my temps a bit and I got a peek at the IHS. Apparently the stepping of my 185 is CCBBE...One of the better steppings out there...And yet I still can't get it over 2.9 GHz stable...







Hopefully this reseat does some good...


----------



## Blitz6804

If you suspect an inefficient cooler, try shimming it to increase mount pressure. I have found that shims can make a difference of up to 3Âº C on a loose cooler.


----------



## mudd

cut the lid off and see whats under.


----------



## Tator Tot

Just to let you guy's know, I have my Arctic cooling Freezer 64 Pro & Athlon 64 3700+ for sale if anyone wants to pick them up.

More so for the Athlon 64 3700+ challenge (aka, it won't overclock for me at all) rock solid at stock.

Also, it's delidded.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


Well, I reseated my CPU cooler today to try and lower my temps a bit and I got a peek at the IHS. Apparently the stepping of my 185 is CCBBE...One of the better steppings out there...And yet I still can't get it over 2.9 GHz stable...







Hopefully this reseat does some good...


Just goes to show it's not all about the steppings.









On the other hand, 2.9GHz is nothing to sneeze at. I think too many people are conditioned to think that anything less than 3.0GHz is a failed overclock. That notion is just wrong, in my considered opinion.

I guess I still remember the days when 2.7GHz from a S939 dual-core Opteron was considered a superb overclock.


----------



## TheSandman

lol i remember new castles you got to 2.5ghz you where doing good


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I guess I still remember the days when 2.7GHz from a S939 dual-core Opteron was considered a superb overclock.










I remember when getting my friends Athlon XP 3200+ to 2.7ghz was just pure awesome. We spent something like $60 on the Volcano 11, and used 100% fan speed.









Then again, Pentium 4 came along and I thought I was hot stuff @ 3.8ghz... (long to findout I was being smoked by him @ 2.7...)


----------



## Blitz6804

As far as I am concerned, a K8 with anything past 2.8 GHz is just gravy.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
As far as I am concerned, a K8 with anything past 2.8 GHz is just gravy.

K8 939 maybe.

Most of the K8 AM2 CPU's can hit 3.0ghz no prob, though, that's usually the boundary.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
On the other hand, 2.9GHz is nothing to sneeze at.

Agreed!

Decimate, 2.9Ghz is an excellent overclock. Keep up the great work









Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
As far as I am concerned, a K8 with anything past 2.8 GHz is just gravy.

Blitz, but what about the turkey and potatoes?


----------



## Blitz6804

That is up to 2.8 GHz.

Though, Joe is of the mindset that anything past stock is gravy. (If I am not misquoting him.)


----------



## decimator

Well, I guess it's just the fact that this Opty 185 has a stock frequency of 2.6 GHz that makes me think that 2.9 GHz is somewhat underwhelming...That's not even a 15% overclock.


----------



## Blitz6804

Regardless of the stock multiplier, a Denmark is a Denmark. With the right motherboard, you would expect to be able to work the same magic with a 165 that you could a 185.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


Well, I guess it's just the fact that this Opty 185 has a stock frequency of 2.6 GHz that makes me think that 2.9 GHz is somewhat underwhelming...That's not even a 15% overclock.


As Blitz said, it's more important to look at what core they are, and what batch they are, rather than the model number.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Just goes to show it's not all about the steppings.









On the other hand, 2.9GHz is nothing to sneeze at. I think too many people are conditioned to think that anything less than 3.0GHz is a failed overclock. That notion is just wrong, in my considered opinion.

I guess I still remember the days when 2.7GHz from a S939 dual-core Opteron was considered a superb overclock.


































Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Pentium 4 came along and I thought I was hot stuff @ 3.8ghz... (long to findout I was being smoked by him @ 2.7...)


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*

































Shush you









I was young...foolish...and had no internetz to research with.


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


As Blitz said, it's more important to look at what core they are, and what batch they are, rather than the model number.


This is true, but you would think that a chip binned as a 185 would be a slightly higher-quality chip (and thus have some more OC headroom) than a chip binned as a 165...Oh well, I guess 2.9 GHz is nothing to be frustrated about.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Shush you









I was young...foolish...and had no internetz to research with.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


This is true, but you would think that a chip binned as a 185 would be a slightly higher-quality chip (and thus have some more OC headroom) than a chip binned as a 165...Oh well, I guess 2.9 GHz is nothing to be frustrated about.


I hate to say it this way, but your board might just hate your Chip.

Back in the socket 478 days, I got an excellent Asus board (at least I thought I did) but it hated my P4 2.66 Northwood.

Low and behold, same chipset, just switched over to a Gigabyte model and it was e-z-p-z overclocking.

And that Asus board ended up doing wonders with a P4 2.8ghz Northwood. Almost identical CPU, just a step above mine multi wise.


----------



## Blitz6804

Proving yet again the old adage: Your mileage may vary.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Proving yet again the old adage: Your mileage may vary.


I've seen it less & less with New hardware, but it still does occur.







And is very true.


----------



## N2Gaming

Well to be honest w/u blitz I still have not got around to trying to bake it again. I just got back from a all day mountaing bicycle ride going door to door trying to find a job. I'm gonna start hitting up all the temp agencies next. It seems like most big companies out there now a days use them any way. sighhhhhhhhhhh...









I need to get a job soon or I'm gonna be a dead duck in the water or a dead fish out of water oh yeah and also up creek w/out a paddle.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


I was young...foolish...and had no internetz to research with.


Tator, right there with you. I spent too much money on my 3Ghz Northwood thinking it was going to blow away my 2.53Ghz Northy. What a waste of money...should of did my research first. Same goes for the glitchy 875P chipset I bought from MSI.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


This is true, but you would think that a chip binned as a 185 would be a slightly higher-quality chip (and thus have some more OC headroom) than a chip binned as a 165...Oh well, I guess 2.9 GHz is nothing to be frustrated about.


Decimate, oh no they are identical chips. The stepping and multiplier is just different.

Good luck


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator, right there with you. I spent too much money on my 3Ghz Northwood thinking it was going to blow away my 2.53Ghz Northy. What a waste of money...should of did my research first. Same goes for the glitchy 875P chipset I bought from MSI.


I knew enough not to get the 865PE chipset because I was on a budget. More specifically the Asus P4C800-E Deluxe. Ended up replacing it with this Gigabyte though, for overclocking reasons.

But I was smart enough after looking at specs to realize the only difference in the Northwood's was Multi & FSB, so I took the middle road with the 2.66ghz


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Decimate, oh no they are identical chips. The stepping and multiplier is just different.


Yup, I realize that now. Thinking back, it definitely wasn't the smartest move of me to buy a 185, although I did buy it during the downslope of 939 and Newegg was selling them for $245. I probably could've went with a 170 and used the money I saved on a better board like a CFX3200-DR. Oh well, hindsight is 20/20 as they say.

In other news, I finally got 3DMark Vantage to work on my machine. I was pretty stupid not to figure this out before, but I just looked on Futuremark's page of approved drivers for the HD 2000 series and installed the latest driver that was on there. Ran the benchmark and I must say, Vantage basically bent my machine over backwards and did some unspeakable things to it...








Gosh, I want a new machine so badly







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Decimate, if it's any consolation, I used to have an AT8-32X. It wasn't an exceptional board. I had an Opty 170 in there once, couldn't crack 2.6GHz. Put the same chip in another board (DFI Ultra-D); without RAM tweaks, took it up to around 2.8GHz.

The fact you got it to 2.9GHz makes your achievement pretty stellar.


----------



## Blitz6804

I personally liked things better before I found OCN; my wallet was a lot heavier for it. Instead of getting a $100-200 upgrade every November, I just keep pouring money into this thing; it makes me sick to look back at the receipts.

The same AT8-32x ran my Toledo at 2.8 GHz on 1.380 V, rock-solid stable. Let me suicide (and be SuperPi stable) up to 3.1 GHz or so.


----------



## decimator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
The fact you got it to 2.9GHz makes your achievement pretty stellar.









Thanks







. Even at 2.9, though, the amount of vcore it required was too much for me, so I backed it off to 2.8 GHz. Runs 24/7 at 2.8 right now.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
The same AT8-32x ran my Toledo at 2.8 GHz on 1.380 V, rock-solid stable. Let me suicide (and be SuperPi stable) up to 3.1 GHz or so.

Nice. Yeah, as you said, though, mileage may vary







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


That is up to 2.8 GHz.

Though, Joe is of the mindset that anything past stock is gravy. (If I am not misquoting him.)


Well... it's not a bad paraphrasing.

It's more like this: Hardware manufacturers are only beholden to guarantee a chip's advertised stock speed. Anything beyond this advertised stock speed is beyond the realm of ANY guarantee.

And as far as why we shouldn't be so disappointed with an Opteron 185 only doing 2.9GHz, when you start at 2.6GHz already, here's my input: What matters is not so much the starting frequency; rather, it's the maximum potential inherent in the design on the part which matters most of all. In other words, *potentially* speaking, an Opteron 165 has exactly the same potential maximum speed as a top-of-the-line Opteron 185 (because they're essentially the same, except for the CPU multiplier, which in turn governs the chips' stock frequency as well).

Higher multipliers in OCing only really matter when 1) you're limited by a motherboard that can't scale its reference clock all that much and/or 2) your RAM isn't capable of achieving super-high MHz with usable timings settings. The tradeoff, of course, is the higher cost at the time of purchase.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


As far as I am concerned, a K8 with anything past 2.8 GHz is just gravy.


Had some ISP problems or I would have chimed in earlier.

Most any K8 going over 2.8GHz is great and I do have a chip or two that can do it, no problem. The one currently in my sig can probrably do even more but it's too hot right now to try it without risking the farm here.

2.9GHz from a 165 is a great OC and the chip is definitely a good one. My 165 will do it too but temps are the thing when I do that - Have to watch them carefully. Hopefully your temps are good but if not, maybe an improvement there will help you in the MHz department. 
Speaking of XP chips going to 2.7GHz or better, still have several around here and a pair of Volcano 11's too. 
I'm also repairing a Abit AN7 I won on Fleabay for $5.00 plus shipping. If I can revive the board, I'll have another Socket A toy to play with here. If not, I'll have parts for my other AN7.









I can add that the MB's ability to clock the FSB also matters. 
I have a Socket A DFI Ultra II Infinity that won't go past 214 on the bus without falling over but both of my Asus A7N8X boards hit 230 or better routinely on air alone. You'd think the DFI would be smoking the Asus MB's but it doesn't.


----------



## Blitz6804

As far as I know, DFI used to be a cheap, usually-OEM product until Socket 939 came around and it hit its stride. Given that, it would make sense that the DFI would be underwhelming in a Socket A application.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Asus A7N8X boards hit 230


LOL, I've got one of those lying around but I had to let the nephew learn to listen the hard way and watched him burn out 5 chips.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


As far as I know, DFI used to be a cheap, usually-OEM product until Socket 939 came around and it hit its stride. Given that, it would make sense that the DFI would be underwhelming in a Socket A application.


Not neccesarily.

A LanParty Ultra II "B" is the topdog of Socket A OC'ing for the most part and some of the Infinity's can do rather well too.

@ Hueristic: Too bad he had to learn the hardway. Hopefully the board is OK. BTW do you know if it's a 2.0 Deluxe or -E version?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


@ Hueristic: Too bad he had to learn the hardway. Hopefully the board is OK. BTW do you know if it's a 2.0 Deluxe or -E version?


Yeah. It was tough watching him kill them (I spent alot of effort getting him the 3200 barten







) But sometimes you have to learn the hard way.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


As far as I know, DFI used to be a cheap, usually-OEM product until Socket 939 came around and it hit its stride. Given that, it would make sense that the DFI would be underwhelming in a Socket A application.


As Kryten said, the LanParty Ultra II "B" is what took DFI to fame, though it came out towards the end of the Socket A era, it kept many a people going with Socket A CPU's. And if you could throw an Athlon XP 3200+ or the cheaper but almost completely similar Sempron 3200+ on that board you were golden.

Add that to ATi supporting AGP cards in the Radeon x1000 series and all was well for quiet a few folks. More so the GeCube x1950Xt. That was a seriously tankish AGP card for cheap.

If you want to read about the board for fun, check out this writeup


----------



## Blitz6804

I personally had a Visiontek x1950 Pro XGE when my x1600 AGP died. Was a decent card, quite better than the x1600. (Could not hold a candle to the HD 3850 AGP though.)


----------



## Tator Tot

The reason I'm in love with that GeCube model as when it hit the shelves, it was the same clocks as an XT (not Xfire of course) but it was in the Pro price range.

Though, yeah, neither of them can hold a candle the HD3850 AGP, or the HD4670 AGP.


----------



## Hueristic

I didn't even know they released a 4XXX for AGP. Doesn't it saturate the bus?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
I didn't even know they released a 4XXX for AGP. Doesn't it saturate the bus?

HD4670 = HD3870
HD4650 = HD3850

So not really. But they handle AA and AF way better than those cards do.

XFX, Gigabyte, Diamond, PowerColor, & HIS all make AGP HD46xx cards.

HD4650 AGP
HD4670 AGP

Note, Gigabyte makes both, but Newegg doesn't have both in stock.


----------



## Blitz6804

The HD 3850 cannot saturate the AGP bus. An HD 3850 AGP on an 8x AGP bus clocked identically, scored the same as, if not slightly higher, than an HD 3850 PCIe on a PCI 1.0 8x slot. The PCIe 1.0 8x slot actually has a slightly lower bandwidth (2000 MBps as compared to 2133 MBps), but putting the same card into a PCIe 2.0 16x slot did not improve performance any in my testing.


----------



## decimator

Just for fun...









Not stable in the least, but it validated...


----------



## Hueristic

I can't find the io bandwidth for the 4670 or the 3870.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


Just for fun...









Not stable in the least, but it validated...


Decimate, have you tried getting that particular overclock to run stable? How about if you drop the memory frequency below stock and re-run the tests? I wouldn't mind seeing that puppy stable at 3Ghz









Good luck


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


I can't find the io bandwidth for the 4670 or the 3870.


AGP 8x = 2.1GB/s bandwidth 

PCIe 1.x x16 bandwidth = 4 GB/s

But to answer your question bluntly, the HD3870/HD2900Xt was designed to run effectively at PCIe 1.x 8x bandwidth. Which is roughly 2GB/s. So on an AGP bus they are more than fine.

Though, because of that design in the architecture, it's believe that's what also leads to the horrible AA/AF performance of those cards.

Though, it's also believed that when ATi went for the Radeon 4000 series, they fixed that "issue," and so, when you have an ATi HD48xx card in a PCIe 2.0 x8 slot, it has appropriate bandwidth and improved AA/AF performance because it was not designed with a bottleneck in mind like the older RV600's were.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


HD4670 = HD3870...



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


...
But to answer your question bluntly, the HD3870/HD2900Xt was designed to run effectively at PCIe 1.x 8x bandwidth. Which is roughly 2GB/s. So on an AGP bus they are more than fine.

Though, because of that design in the architecture, it's believe that's what also leads to the horrible AA/AF performance of those cards.

Though, *it's also believed* that when ATi went for the Radeon 4000 series, they fixed that "issue," and so, when you have an ATi HD48xx card in a PCIe 2.0 x8 slot, it has appropriate bandwidth and improved AA/AF performance because it was not designed with a bottleneck in mind like the older RV600's were.


So IOW your saying the 4XXX will saturate the AGP bus. Which was my original observation.









which you answered with the above quote.

And "It's believed"? What is that someone's hunch? Do you have links?

So please put some facts down bluntly. Or say I don't know. It's not that hard.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
So IOW your saying the 4XXX will saturate the AGP bus. Which was my original observation.









again this is a Yes & No. As it hasn't been tested yet, but the HD4670 doesn't need more bandwidth than the HD3870. So it shouldn't, but it's also a possibility depending on how much data you really need to push through.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
And "It's believed"? What is that someone's hunch? Do you have links?

So please put some facts down bluntly. Or say I don't know. It's not that hard.

Well the "it's believed" bit comes from the fact of nothing is quite clear about the HD4600 cards, as most people regard them as just an update to the original RV600 chips, some take then as a whole new GPU based off a scaled down RV700 chip. Though, their is no proof to back up either statement.

But as regarded in most testing, the HD4670 beats the HD3870 (both GDDR3 models) and the HD2900Xt (GDDR3 as well) when using AA & AF, though as to this being a new arcitecture or not, no one can really say, as the HD3870 handled AA & AF a bit better than the HD2900Xt, and it's known to be just an updated version of the same core.

So it's all up to speculation, unless someone at ATi states that they actually made a new chip for HD4600, or if they just updated the old design.

As for the AA & AF problems of the RV600 chips, we can't really say why they are bad at it, just that they are bad at AA & AF. ATi didn't give an explanation, and I doubt anyone has the tech to backwards engineer the architecture, nor synthesize/virtulaize it to see where the flaw actually comes from.

But to make it as blunt as possible.

HD4670 is roughly the same performance as the original HD2900Xt. Though, it has a better application of AA & AF.

But I for one, don't believe they just updated the old RV600 chips.

As the HD4670 has less ROPs and a lower Pixel fillrate, but it has a higher Texture Fillrate.
It also has lower memory bandwidth, but that's because of the Bus and not the GPU core.

Either way, if you crunch all the numbers, and look at all the data, it shouldn't perform better than the RV670 or R600 based GPU's. As it has lower clocks, a lower bus, less ROP's, and a lower Pixel Fillrate.

But who knows, they could have just taken the basic design, and really given it a work around. It's not the first time, and it definitely won't be the last, it also helps to save in R&D.


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Decimate, have you tried getting that particular overclock to run stable? How about if you drop the memory frequency below stock and re-run the tests? I wouldn't mind seeing that puppy stable at 3Ghz









Good luck


Nah, nothing I have done could get it stable. I tried 2.9 GHz again (seemed stable to me after running Prime95 before), and I got the BSOD after only a couple passes of LinX. Dropped it even further to 2.88, same thing. 2.86, same thing. Finally got frustrated and backed back down to 2.80 where it's been for the last couple of weeks...


----------



## N2Gaming

I just tried to play COD4 on a NF4 SLI DR w/a all stock a64 3500+ and 6600 Gphx card w/2x1gig ram. LOL 640 x 480 and still only getting 50-60 FPS.









I think the cpu and gpu are too slow for the game.









So you may wonder why I was doing this in the first place. Well I was trying out something to see if it works. I have so far gotten to level 18 multiplayer and wanted to see if saving the Profiles folder would allow me to transfer my saved stats. I was able to transfer the saved stats but online game play was slow at best on this rig. I feel like







Is all I ever really do w/the 939 rigs.


----------



## thlnk3r

Tator, that is some good information you posted above









Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


Nah, nothing I have done could get it stable. I tried 2.9 GHz again (seemed stable to me after running Prime95 before), and I got the BSOD after only a couple passes of LinX. Dropped it even further to 2.88, same thing. 2.86, same thing. Finally got frustrated and backed back down to 2.80 where it's been for the last couple of weeks...


Decimate, bah that stinks. Well the memory frequency speed you have right now is quite impressive. 2.8Ghz coupled with that is nothing to be ashamed of!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I feel like







Is all I ever really do w/the 939 rigs.


N2Gaming, hey no worries bud...that's all I really do now as well. All though I did just pick up X-Plane. Alledgeldy it's a 60GB game (6 dual-layer dvd's) haha.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


I did just pick up X-Plane. Alledgeldy it's a 60GB game (6 dual-layer dvd's) haha.










60 GB holy moly Frijoles, that's a lot o beans.







You going for your flight pilots license?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator, that is some good information you posted above










Danke schÃ¶n

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, hey no worries bud...that's all I really do now as well. All though I did just pick up X-Plane. Alledgeldy it's a 60GB game (6 dual-layer dvd's) haha.










That's bigger than half the Microsoft Flight Sim's combined!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*









60 GB holy moly Frijoles, that's a lot o beans.







You going for your flight pilots license?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*









That's bigger than half the Microsoft Flight Sim's combined!


It's insane. I believe the scenery is what takes up all the drive space.

I'm looking forward to flying the SR-71


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


It's insane. I believe the scenery is what takes up all the drive space.

I'm looking forward to flying the SR-71










I'm looking forward to not touching that game ever. Even my mass of HDD space has a limit to individual file/program size.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


It's insane. I believe the scenery is what takes up all the drive space.

I'm looking forward to flying the SR-71










I hope your machine is up to the task of playing that game!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I hope your machine is up to the task of playing that game!



















Joe, yeah let's see if my Commodore 128 can play it









Actually the game runs surprisingly well on my 4350 at work hehe.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hehe, nice.

It's a good thing our work PCs have integrated graphics. Otherwise, I might be accused of just goofing off at work hours.









Joe's Boss: Joe, what is that?
Joe: Uh, what is what?
Joe's Boss: What is THAT? On your monitor?
Joe: OH! It's a, uh, uh... it's that new zoo simulation program. Yeah, that's it. It's, uh, designed to help figure out ways to run a zoo better.
Joe's Boss: Uh huh. (Writes Joe up...)


----------



## thlnk3r

Joe, I still cannot believe that rig runs Windows 98 LOL


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, I still cannot believe that rig runs Windows 98 LOL

LOL You're talking about the PC at the switch board (sorriest PC in the whole zoo, for sure).







My regular machine isn't quite that pathetic.


----------



## BlackOmega

Hey fellaz just dropping you guys a line.









Nothing new on the 939 front from my end. Seems as though school is over I'm busier now than before. Seems like everybody's car just broke at once.









Hmmmm..... come to think of it, since I'm going AM3 soon, do you guys think that a 400w dynex PSU could power my 3500+ and 2 GSO's for folding? And if it couldn't power 2 gso's what GPUs' could it power. It has ~24A on the 12v.

And here is a fun song









  
 



  



 
 Makes me want to go and buy one.


----------



## N2Gaming

LOL I don't think I'm ready to slap all my problems away just yet. j/k

I'm tempted to post it in my Favorite Youtube video's linked in my sig


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*









60 GB holy moly Frijoles, that's a lot o beans.







You going for your flight pilots license?


I have it and it's actually 72GB's of scenery files. Tried to load it up after buying it but found out I didn't have the space at the time to do so. Now that I do have enough, I may try it soon after fixing my web connection problem. Either the router/modem is dying or I have some bad wiring here. Should have it fixed by the weekend (I hope).


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


I have it and it's actually 72GB's of scenery files. Tried to load it up after buying it but found out I didn't have the space at the time to do so. Now that I do have enough, I may try it soon after fixing my web connection problem. Either the router/modem is dying or I have some bad wiring here. Should have it fixed by the weekend (I hope).


I thought about DL'n the demo from the link Thlnk3r posted but changed my mind. That would prolly take a few days to download any way









Sorry to hear about your Internet issues. I had some my self just last night.

EDIT: you mention having more space now. That reminds me. I got my S00GB Seagate 7200.11 HDD back today and it has the SD1A Firmware instead of the SD15. I hope this time it works for good because if it fails this time I'm gonna tell seagate that they lost my business for life. I'll have to resume my Preference of WD HDD's


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
come to think of it, since I'm going AM3 soon, do you guys think that a 400w dynex PSU could power my 3500+ and 2 GSO's for folding? And if it couldn't power 2 gso's what GPUs' could it power. It has ~24A on the 12v.

BlackOmega, I think the power supply would be able to power both cards and processor but I have a feeling eventually the PSU itself would just take a dump from all that load. I don't think Dynex makes very high quality power supplies not to mention 24A is not very much. The quality will really determine the performance of the PSU. Eventually something will fail...hopefully it's the power supply and not something else.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
I have it and it's actually 72GB's of scenery files.

Kryton, wowzy that is a lot of drive space for a game. Let me know if you end up installing the game...I believe it has multiplayer functionality









N2Gaming, good luck with the new drive. Hope it works for you!


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 

Kryton, wowzy that is a lot of drive space for a game. Let me know if you end up installing the game...I believe it has multiplayer functionality









If I can get my web problems squared away, may have to see about flying online soon. Just need to get a copy installed and working BUT I'm having a driver issue with the new system regarding my PCI and the like. However I can fly it with the 939, no prob. I'll most likely setup one of my gaming 939's (A8N32's) for this.


----------



## TheSandman

today marks the 939 as being the 2nd to last discontinued product, newegg stoped selling AM2 classic chips except the x2 6000 which i would assume is just stock there tring to clear. This makes us even older.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
If I can get my web problems squared away, may have to see about flying online soon. Just need to get a copy installed and working BUT I'm having a driver issue with the new system regarding my PCI and the like. However I can fly it with the 939, no prob. I'll most likely setup one of my gaming 939's (A8N32's) for this.

Kryton, sorry I can't recall your network issues. What happened?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TheSandman* 
today marks the 939 as being the 2nd to last discontinued product, newegg stoped selling AM2 classic chips except the x2 6000 which i would assume is just stock there tring to clear. This makes us even older.

TheSandman, now it's really nostalgia


----------



## pez

This thread is still alive. Been so long since I've paid a visit







.

Oh and for BlackOmega, 24A is good up until the 9800GTX+/GTS 250 and HD4850 range.


----------



## TheSandman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 

TheSandman, now it's really nostalgia









wow

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819103698

the sempron is now faster than any single core chip ever released lol and prolly would spank the hyped but never released fX 57 how sad. To boot i read a little bit its been known to unlock to 2-4 cores for a sempron lol. Id love that bios message, unknown quad core sempron lol

edit sorry only unlocks to a duel and OC's to 3.7 my bad


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TheSandman* 
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819103698

the sempron is now faster than any single core chip ever released lol and prolly would spank the hyped but never released fX 57 how sad. To boot i read a little bit its been known to unlock to 2-4 cores for a sempron lol. Id love that bios message, unknown quad core sempron lol

TheSandman, hmmm interesting that you can only unlock one additional core and not the other two. I don't think AMD made 45nm dual-cores (to my knowledge). Everything as far as I know have been quad-cores with just disabled/faulty cores...


----------



## TheSandman

yea but 39.99 for a chip with only 1 good core means short supply of the sempron because it wouldn't be cost effective, im guessing they might have made a dual core 45nm phenom based chip


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
TheSandman, hmmm interesting that you can only unlock one additional core and not the other two. I don't think AMD made 45nm dual-cores (to my knowledge). Everything as far as I know have been quad-cores with just disabled/faulty cores...

The Athlon II CPU's are native dual cores. So no core unlocking on them.


----------



## N2Gaming

Shoot at $40.00 it's almost worth it to buy just for chits and gigles and to see if it would work in one of my AM2 Mobo's









I just got kicked out the living room w/my nice 40" monitor so that motivated me to try something that I have been wating to try for a while now and what i tried actually worked for a change.

I'm in the garage on my working DFI Expert mobo on a Magnavox 27" CRT Analog TV. F Ya, I finally got my bench TV working in the Garage. I had to use My oldest PCIe card that I used in my DFI daily Driver rig. It is a Winfast 6600 not GT just PD or something like that but it is the only card that I have atm that has a 9 pin S- video port for Analog TV's Yayyyyyyyy it works. I added a couple of pic's for all you peeps that keep tab's on what I have been doing lately.









On a side note I'd like to say that even though I don't have a bios w/a NB to CPU multiplier on my Foxconn Destroyer mobo I'm have to say that I'm quite please w/the tech support that I am getting from them after making a phone call to them regarding S3 Sleep state issues that I have been having on that board. I get a response every day and the tech set up a similar system as mine for testing to make sure it was not a bios issue. How cool is that.









I just booted into windows w/tighter timings on my ram and overclock. Man I sure am glad I did not sell these G Skill ram modules to Pio & Hue a while back not that I would not have but timing was not right and monies were tight as they still are. So I ended up playing w/them on this repaired Expert mobo and all I can say is wow. Thanks Kryton for posting that link w/the ram on newegg. That post inspired me to try to see what these puppies can do. I'm at 3.3.2.8.12.2T at the moment w/a really Decent on air overclock on my Opty 180. I may have to lap it some day to see if it helps the temps any. I'm sure it will







then if I ever get a H2O loop for my bench that would be great.

I have a plan for my H2O loop. I'll try to use quick disconnect's that I can bleed out w/presurized air. You see I use to work on Plastic Injection Molds and I still have some of the brass fittings that I used on the cooling for the molds of multen plastic to cool the plastic as it set up before opening and ejecting solidified cooled plastic parts.









Look at me going on and on again, it's gotta be the silver bullets. LOL

Now if I can only get the onboard sound working on this Expert mobo.









Cheers w/Root Beers C:/Beers


----------



## N2Gaming

Sorry for the double post but I was wondering if any one knows of a driver that works for the Yukon Marvel Giga Lan adaptor for these NF4 Mobo's w/XP x64 OS???

Here is my present OC W/Benchmarks. Is this any good???


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, I think the power supply would be able to power both cards and processor but I have a feeling eventually the PSU itself would just take a dump from all that load. I don't think Dynex makes very high quality power supplies not to mention 24A is not very much. The quality will really determine the performance of the PSU. Eventually something will fail...hopefully it's the power supply and not something else.

Thanks th|nk3r. I think I might just run my Evga's off of it since they're lifetime warranty (IIRC).
Then maybe if I can swing it, I'll pick up a couple of 260/216's for folding rig 3. That would be some sick PPD.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Oh and for BlackOmega, 24A is good up until the 9800GTX+/GTS 250 and HD4850 range.

Thanks Pez. I think that th|nk3r (and Hue from my other thread) is correct that it _should_ be able to power my single core rig @ stock strictly GPU folding.

I've been contemplating making my own custom folding rig box that would contain 3 mobo's, 3 PSU's, 6 GPU's, and 3 HDD's and of course a plethora of fans......







Maybe I should take welding this semester and make at school









Regarding the Sempron, do those have the L3 cache? I thought I read somewhere that they didn't come with it. Was it just disabled or was it never there in the first place?


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TheSandman* 
yea but 39.99 for a chip with only 1 good core means short supply of the sempron because it wouldn't be cost effective, im guessing they might have made a dual core 45nm phenom based chip

Yeah, the Phenom II 550 is a dual core 45nm CPU. Some people have unlocked the full 4 cores as well. And they yield some pretty crazy OC's.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Thanks th|nk3r. I think I might just run my Evga's off of it since they're lifetime warranty (IIRC).
Then maybe if I can swing it, I'll pick up a couple of 260/216's for folding rig 3. That would be some sick PPD.

Thanks Pez. I think that th|nk3r (and Hue from my other thread) is correct that it _should_ be able to power my single core rig @ stock strictly GPU folding.

I've been contemplating making my own custom folding rig box that would contain 3 mobo's, 3 PSU's, 6 GPU's, and 3 HDD's and of course a plethora of fans......







Maybe I should take welding this semester and make at school









Regarding the Sempron, do those have the L3 cache? I thought I read somewhere that they didn't come with it. Was it just disabled or was it never there in the first place?

Yeah, I wouldn't plan on OC'ing that rig, though your CPU won't bottleneck you on that at all, so for all you care, you could just run the lowest powered single core available lol.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TheSandman* 
yea but 39.99 for a chip with only 1 good core means short supply of the sempron because it wouldn't be cost effective, im guessing they might have made a dual core 45nm phenom based chip

Yeah, the Phenom II 550 is a dual core 45nm CPU. Some people have unlocked the full 4 cores as well. And they yield some pretty crazy OC's.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Thanks th|nk3r. I think I might just run my Evga's off of it since they're lifetime warranty (IIRC).
Then maybe if I can swing it, I'll pick up a couple of 260/216's for folding rig 3. That would be some sick PPD.

Thanks Pez. I think that th|nk3r (and Hue from my other thread) is correct that it _should_ be able to power my single core rig @ stock strictly GPU folding.

I've been contemplating making my own custom folding rig box that would contain 3 mobo's, 3 PSU's, 6 GPU's, and 3 HDD's and of course a plethora of fans......







Maybe I should take welding this semester and make at school









Regarding the Sempron, do those have the L3 cache? I thought I read somewhere that they didn't come with it. Was it just disabled or was it never there in the first place?

Yeah, I wouldn't plan on OC'ing that rig, though your CPU won't bottleneck you on that at all, so for all you care, you could just run the lowest powered single core available lol.

I'm looking forward to the day you upgrade







. I can't wait for you to see that hugeeee improvement going from a 2.9ghz dual to a dual or quad clocked to at least 3.6ghz. A jump from s939 to AM2+/AM3 is a huuuuge leap.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey BO. Looks like peeps are far and few or selective in the post's that they respond to.







ANYWAY'S









That sounds like a super folder on budget rig that I my self would try to build if I had enough GPU's.

I say go for the welding class. If they have a combined sheet metal and welding class then I highly reccomend that vs just welding. Either way though you really can't go wrong.

I just tried to load NF4 Chipset drivers over the NForce 590 SLI drivers that I have been using on this DFI Expert mobo and found out that I can't boot w/the older chipset drivers. Arg... So I had to do the deed and use the system restore to go back to a time of week ago. Now I have to reload my vid drivers again for this PX6600TD Video card. Hmm I wonder if I am able to get this overclock because of the 590 drivers???


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


I'm looking forward to the day you upgrade







. I can't wait for you to see that hugeeee improvement going from a 2.9ghz dual to a dual or quad clocked to at least 3.6ghz. A jump from s939 to AM2+/AM3 is a huuuuge leap.


 Me too







Depending on the deals I can swing on black friday I could very well end up with a 945/955/965. I'm curious to see how my 4870's will do without a CPU bottleneck.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hey BO. Looks like peeps are far and few or selective in the post's that they respond to.







ANYWAY'S









That sounds like a super folder on budget rig that I my self would try to build if I had enough GPU's.

I say go for the welding class. If they have a combined sheet metal and welding class then I highly reccomend that vs just welding. Either way though you really can't go wrong.

I just tried to load NF4 Chipset drivers over the NForce 590 SLI drivers that I have been using on this DFI Expert mobo and found out that I can't boot w/the older chipset drivers. Arg... So I had to do the deed and use the system restore to go back to a time of week ago. Now I have to reload my vid drivers again for this PX6600TD Video card. Hmm I wonder if I am able to get this overclock because of the 590 drivers???


 Sorry N2, have had a long day. Spent quite a bit of time messing with my folks car. One thing after another







First the PS pump, then the PS pressure line, then the whole rack







.

I'll have to look into what is covered in that welding class. Hmmm........ Maybe there's a fabrication class offered. Been a good long while since I looked into auto, metal working classes.

Thats really weird about your expert board. I wonder why it won't boot with the proper drivers


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Sorry, N2G. Been really scarce of late. Quite busy at work, plus I'm working on finalizing a proposal for a client's build. He's not sure what parts he wants to use (we'll definitely be going for either a quad-core or a tri-core at the very least; lots of media encoding and digital file processing, which means dual-cores aren't quite enough), so I'm having to do a ton of research and try to cover all the bases. Plus there won't be any OCing to be done on this machine if the proposal is accepted (100% stability is required).

I'm a little confused about your predicament, N2G. What exactly is the issue, and what system are we talking about here?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Thats really weird about your expert board. I wonder why it won't boot with the proper drivers










What makes it even weird'r is that I originally installed the OS w/one of my M2N32 SLI Deluxe mobo's and Drivers for that mobo. Then On a sper of the moments decided to swop mobo's w/out removing the 590 sli drivers for that M2N mobo and just put the HDD on the DFI Expert mobo that I repaired a while back by replacing some capacitors from one of the other mobo's that i got at the same time. It's been a while so I really can't blame any one if they don't remember when I purchase 2x DFI Expert mobo's and ended up w/them both for less then $20.00 shipped.







I was able to get one of them working but I have not been able to get the on board sound working w/it yet. The board prolly has a bad chip somewhere on it that I'll eventually figure out. It sure would be nice if it was just a driver issue but I just tried loading the sound driver from DFI and it was still no good. The system does not even recognize that the riser board is installed to apply the drivers to. I confirmed this by using dxdiag from trying the start/run/dxdiag... NO SOUND HARDWRE DETECTED. Arg.....

Sorry to hear about the car problems. I just got my 98 Buick Regal GS smoged today so that I can put it in my GF's name so that I can get out of debt. It's a deal I have going w/her and her father. She drives it to hell so why not just sell it to her and let her deal w/it when she kills it.









Thanks Joe. Sounds like your hands are full atm and for a good reason. I sure wish I had your work problems. At least then I would be making $$$ unlike my present situation.









I am trying to get my Home made repaired DFI NF4 SLI DR Expert to work properly. I can't get sound and I have another PCI Bridge Device that I can't figure out what it is so that I can load the device drivers for it. I'm wondering if that is the reason I can't get the onboard sound working.









Edit: All my last couple of hours worth of post's have been on the OC'd Expert mobo.







I also just finished checking all of the USB ports on the mobo and they are all good. Shwew wipes forhead...


----------



## XAslanX

Add me, I have taken on a 939 system as my second system after upgrading a family members PC.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=651922

http://www.overclock.net/system.php?i=41182


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Joe: OH! It's a, uh, uh... it's that new zoo simulation program. Yeah, that's it. It's, uh, designed to help figure out ways to run a zoo better.

Zoo Tycoon! It is actually a fun game, especially with the dinosaur expansion. (Think: _Jurassic Park_.)

Quote:


Originally Posted by *XAslanX* 
Add me, I have taken on a 939 system as my second system after upgrading a family members PC.

Will do once I get home. (As with all other pending entries. (-_-))

For those of you wondering where I have been: I lost power due to a thunderstorm around 8pm Sunday night. National Grid said it would be back by 3 AM. I got power back around 7:30 AM... and lost it again shortly thereafter. They told me it would be back by noon; it was not. Then they told me it would be back by 6 PM. Well, it was the hottest day thus far of the year (in excess of 90Âº F for the first time) and more thunderstorms were pending for that evening. The dog was ready to pass out (Pomeranian; quite fuzzy) so I left a few days earlier than intended for Long Island. Needless to say, when I get back, I will need to empty my fridge. I called my apartment periodically on the drive down and the answering machine finally picked up by 10 PM, some 26 hours after I lost power. Hopefully, National Grid will not give me problems in recompensing my damages. (The other apartments on the other side of the street stayed on when I went back out, so who the heck knows what was going on.)


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Me too







Depending on the deals I can swing on black friday I could very well end up with a 945/955/965. I'm curious to see how my 4870's will do without a CPU bottleneck.


Yeah, I just found the next highest stable OC for me, and just going from 3GHz, to 3.5GHz has pretty much completely eliminated my bottleneck







. So I'm happy...I'm stable 8 hours of Prime95, and the FPU test on S&M, and I can run 3DMark06 perfectly, yet Vantage doesn't want to run for some reason.


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Yeah, I just found the next highest stable OC for me, and just going from 3GHz, to 3.5GHz has pretty much completely eliminated my bottleneck







. So I'm happy...I'm stable 8 hours of Prime95, and the FPU test on S&M, and I can run 3DMark06 perfectly, yet Vantage doesn't want to run for some reason.


That happened to me too where I could run 3DMark06 fine but Vantage was being a PITA. I fixed the problem by going to Futuremark's website and looking up their approved display drivers for Vantage. Just rolled back to an approved driver and everything worked fine for me.
http://www.futuremark.com/products/3...proveddrivers/


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


That happened to me too where I could run 3DMark06 fine but Vantage was being a PITA. I fixed the problem by going to Futuremark's website and looking up their approved display drivers for Vantage. Just rolled back to an approved driver and everything worked fine for me.
http://www.futuremark.com/products/3...proveddrivers/


Actually, I just fixed it







. I had to reinstall because of a PhysX problem.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
The Athlon II CPU's are native dual cores. So no core unlocking on them.

Tator, oh really? So AMD made a native 45nm dual-core processor? This is news to me









I wonder if that is the difference between _Phenom II X2_ and _Athlon II X2_.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Regarding the Sempron, do those have the L3 cache? I thought I read somewhere that they didn't come with it. Was it just disabled or was it never there in the first place?

BlackOmega, more than likely it was disabled. I mean why make a processor without the L3 Cache? I'm assuming it's cheaper to just disable.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *XAslanX* 
Add me, I have taken on a 939 system as my second system after upgrading a family members PC.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=651922

XAslanX, welcome to the club buddy. I went ahead and added your entry to the roster.

Good luck guys


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Tator, oh really? So AMD made a native 45nm dual-core processor? This is news to me









I wonder if that is the difference between _Phenom II X2_ and _Athlon II X2_.

BlackOmega, more than likely it was disabled. I mean why make a processor without the L3 Cache? I'm assuming it's cheaper to just disable.

The difference between the Phenom II & Athlon II CPU's isn't great, but it is there. The Athlon II's have no L3 cache at all, it's not present on the CPU's, as they don't come from the same fab as the Phenom II's do. They are native dual cores, thus they are manufactured differently.

As for being cheaper, it's much cheaper to not include it and run it on a different fab because the die size is smaller than that of the Phenom II's which have disabled cores and L3 cache. It also helps reduce the TDP dramatically.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
The difference between the Phenom II & Athlon II CPU's isn't great, but it is there. The Athlon II's have no L3 cache at all, it's not present on the CPU's, as they don't come from the same fab as the Phenom II's do. They are native dual cores, thus they are manufactured differently.

As for being cheaper, it's much cheaper to not include it and run it on a different fab because the die size is smaller than that of the Phenom II's which have disabled cores and L3 cache. It also helps reduce the TDP dramatically.

Tator, ahhhh interesting









I had no idea they were manufactured at a different fabs. I guess that makes sense for the manufacturing process. Aren't the Athlon II's and Phenom II's the same die size (45nm)?

EDIT: If anyone wants to know more info, this review pretty much covers both processors (Phenom II X2 & Athlon II X2): http://www.guru3d.com/article/athlon...50-be-review/1


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Tator, ahhhh interesting









I had no idea they were manufactured at a different fabs. I guess that makes sense for the manufacturing process. Aren't the Athlon II's and Phenom II's the same die size (45nm)?

Die size is a little different than manufacturing technology.

45nm only equates to the size of the transistors in a CPU. This is why, even when the 55nm GTX280 & 55nm HD4890 have the same manufacturing method, the GTX280 has a large die. It holds more stuff inside. (as a simple way of putting it.)

Like Every Phenom (K10 & K10.5; that even includes my Kuma), they all have a native amount of 4 cores, and a certain amount of L3 cache.
Though, what happens is that when certain cores just don't work, or do not function up to stanards, they disable them, and then market them as Phenom xX CPU's (or in the case of the Kuma, as a Athlon series.)

Well, no matter what you do, and what you disable (which is cheaper than cutting) you still have 4 cores, and the same amount of L3 cache. So you are obviously going to need a larger die than something that only has 2 cores and L2 cache under it's hood.

I hope that made sense, as it's a little hard to put into an analogy form.

But more or less

Athlon II = 2 cores + L1 + L2
But
Phenom II = 4 Cores + L1 + L2 + L3

and no matter what you disable, it's still there, just not active.


----------



## thlnk3r

Tator, good info buddy. So it looks like things weren't clear with me when it came to "nm". So transistor size in the cpu is smaller but the die size can be larger? That is interesting. I'm assuming larger die size equals more heat?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator, good info buddy. So it looks like things weren't clear with me when it came to "nm". So transistor size in the cpu is smaller but the die size can be larger? That is interesting. I'm assuming larger die size equals more heat?


Well, yes & no. It all depends on what make the die size so huge.

A Phenom II x4 955 Black Edition & Phenom II x2 550 Black Edition have the same die size, and even though the same parts are under the hood of the 550 as they are the 955, they are not being used, so it has a lower Thermal Design Spec. (TDP)

It's all relevant to what's actually being used, and what is actually there.

You could think of it like 3D chess, it's a multi level problem that is addressed on a singular level, and on multiple levels at the same time.

Side Note: Never play 3D chess, you'll just get a headache.


----------



## thlnk3r

Tator, cool thanks for the info









By the way how is your environment going at home? I've been working on my VM host this week. I was able to fit 4 virtuals plus the host OS on a desktop with 2GB of memory. Win2k3 Ent surprisingly runs great with 256MB of memory haha. I have my Exchange 2003 virtual running with 512MB. Since I'm on a budget right now (baby on the way) I had to resort to a desktop being my server. I had a Raid setup going with my two 750AAKS drives but the array took a dump already. Needless to say I'm returning this controller to Fry's...


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *XAslanX*


Add me, I have taken on a 939 system as my second system after upgrading a family members PC.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=651922

http://www.overclock.net/system.php?i=41182


 Welcome Aslan.








I just noticed that you're running @ 1.40vcore. Asus boards for some reason like to set it at that. You should be able to set it down to 1.35v without any issues. My 3800x2 @ stock runs just fine on my DFI @ 1.31v. But from my experience, DFI's have much better voltage regulation than Asus.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Yeah, I just found the next highest stable OC for me, and just going from 3GHz, to 3.5GHz has pretty much completely eliminated my bottleneck







. So I'm happy...I'm stable 8 hours of Prime95, and the FPU test on S&M, and I can run 3DMark06 perfectly, yet Vantage doesn't want to run for some reason.


 Very nice! I'm hoping to achieve ~3.8-4.0 stable when I get my AM3. From what I've heard OCing Am3 is pretty different than 939, so I guess I'll be learning all over again.







I don't mind, I like learning new tech.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


The difference between the Phenom II & Athlon II CPU's isn't great, but it is there. The Athlon II's have no L3 cache at all, it's not present on the CPU's, as they don't come from the same fab as the Phenom II's do. They are native dual cores, thus they are manufactured differently.

As for being cheaper, it's much cheaper to not include it and run it on a different fab because the die size is smaller than that of the Phenom II's which have disabled cores and L3 cache. It also helps reduce the TDP dramatically.


 Thanks for clearing that up tator. I thought that was the case, but it was something I read in passing and for some reason didn't pay much mind to it.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator, cool thanks for the info









By the way how is your environment going at home? I've been working on my VM host this week. I was able to fit 4 virtuals plus the host OS on a desktop with 2GB of memory. Win2k3 Ent surprisingly runs great with 256MB of memory haha. I have my Exchange 2003 virtual running with 512MB. Since I'm on a budget right now (baby on the way) I had to resort to a desktop being my server. I had a Raid setup going with my two 750AAKS drives but the array took a dump already. Needless to say I'm returning this controller to Fry's...


Damn, that sucks about your AAKS drives taking the dump.

My home setup is scaled back as of late, I took my last 3 PE2800's offline about a month ago, and just run the network off an ION build, and a cisco switch.

We got a big rate hike in electricity in this area. Though, I could never guess why they would do that, as they are building a nuke plant for power, we already have plenty of Wind Turbine towers setup, and we live in the corner of 2 rivers.....

But hey..I don't run the place, I just pay em.

I'm currently planning a network overhaul soon though. Ditch WiFi G, go for an N solution, get an untangle box up and running, along with a personal SAN as well.

Though, with also hitting up college this fall, that's all going to be low budget/low power. But most of it's going to paid for by most of my old servers being sold.

I just wish I could get my PE2800d (desktop) sold, as no-one wanted to buy it on Fleabay, nor here. (though I'm still trying) it's mostly because it's not rack mountable unless you buy a kit that costs like $300.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


From what I've heard OCing Am3 is pretty different than 939, so I guess I'll be learning all over again.







I don't mind, I like learning new tech.


BlackOmega, it's not too bad actually. The NB Frequency is something new to consider when overclocking. If you pick up a Phenom II with an unlocked multiplier then it's much easier to make adjustments. I have noticed also that the BIOS's have more options.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Damn, that sucks about your AAKS drives taking the dump.


Tator, oh no actually the raid controller died. I guess that's what I get for spending $25 on it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


I just wish I could get my PE2800d (desktop) sold, as no-one wanted to buy it on Fleabay, nor here. (though I'm still trying) it's mostly because it's not rack mountable unless you buy a kit that costs like $300.


I hope you sell that puppy. It's going to be hard though...not sure how many people out there are still looking for SCSI drives. The PE2800 comes with the Perc4/d controller right? Funny you mention about the kit, someone at work did the opposite and spent money on the desktop conversion kit.

Good luck


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


I hope you sell that puppy. It's going to be hard though...not sure how many people out there are still looking for SCSI drives. The PE2800 comes with the Perc4/d controller right? Funny you mention about the kit, someone at work did the opposite and spent money on the desktop conversion kit.

Good luck


Oh, damn, I wouldn't want to buy a conversion kit, those things are big pieces of metal and over priced.

I might try ebay listing again, but I really do not like Fleabay one bit.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Thinker*

_
Quote:



Originally Posted by *Black Omega*

From what I've heard OCing Am3 is pretty different than 939, so I guess I'll be learning all over again.







I don't mind, I like learning new tech.


_
BlackOmega, it's not too bad actually. The NB Frequency is something new to consider when overclocking. If you pick up a Phenom II with an unlocked multiplier then it's much easier to make adjustments. I have noticed also that the BIOS's have more options.


People would like to think it's different, but besides the availability of unlocked multi's, it's not really that different.

From my experience, the only thing you need to consider on AM3/AM2+ builds is to keep your HyperTransport in the 2200mhz-2400mhz range if you can.

And the NB in the range of 2400mhz-2600mhz.

HyperTransport isn't that hard to keep high, but what i really stress to most AM3 overclockers is to ignore the easy way in with the unlocked multi and push the HT clock (FSB) as high as you can on stock multi, and then once that is done, pull the last leg of the race out with your unlocked multi. Basically using it as a backup plan.

As overclocking your HT clock is what boosts your NB, Hyper Transport, RAM, & CPU clock; which can lead to a huge system performance boost over your standard CPU clock increase.


----------



## thlnk3r

One thing to note about AM3 processors is that they sort of dislike high voltages. The higher you go with the voltage the less stable the processor will be. It's not for ALL of them but it's a common occurrence.
As Tator mentioned there really isn't much of a difference. There is just a few more things to consider. For example, I noticed with NB Frequencies higher then 2400Mhz a +.200 voltage increase (CPU-NB) may be required ect ect.

Good luck


----------



## Tator Tot

That's true as well, High voltage is not a K10.5's friend.

Though, as for the CPU-NB voltage increase, that depends on the board, the Gigabyte GA-MA790FXT-UD5 doesn't need a voltage increase, while the Asus M4A79T-Deluxe does. But then my Foxconn doesn't either. (worked will all of those boards)

Voltage on AM3 seems to be a more, board to board, issue and less a chipset/HT clock based equation.


----------



## N2Gaming

What about getting mobo's w/a 790FX NB chipset accompanied by a 750 SB chip set and a bios that allows for NB to CPU multipliers. The NB multiplier helps get the NB Frequencies at a decent spd when you consider ram OC bottlenecks and other things that come in to play when overclocking Ph II's. I say it's just best to get the best mobo for the job and not kick your self in the but after purchasing your mobo wishing you had a different one.


----------



## Blitz6804

BlackOmega: A K10.5 is not that dissimilar from a K8 in my opinion. The only big difference, as Thlnk3r has said, is the distinct northbridge. On a K8, the northbridge multiplier and the CPU multiplier are one and the same. On a K10.5, the northbridge is distinct, and often less. The advantage is that computing RAM speed is a piece of cake: HTT * RAM divider / 200. The disadvantage is that the RAM bandwidth will be generally lower than a K8 clock-for-clock.

While the SB 750 is nice to have for a Phenom II (K10.5), it is not a necessity. (In my opinion, it is a necessity for a Phenom (K10).) The 790 FX will generally give you the best platform to work with for a K10.5 however. Further, as Thlnk3r has said, K10.5s prefer cool over voltage. They also tend to prefer high HTTs to high multipliers. (3.45 GHz is as high as I can go with 1.376 V with a 15x multiplier; even 15 MHz higher is unstable no matter what I do. On the other hand, with a 13x multiplier, 3640 MHz is stable with the same exact voltage.)


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Like Every Phenom (K10 & K10.5; that even includes my Kuma), they all have a native amount of 4 cores, and a certain amount of L3 cache.
Though, what happens is that when certain cores just don't work, or do not function up to stanards, they disable them, and then market them as Phenom xX CPU's (or in the case of the Kuma, as a Athlon series.)

The Kuma is Phenom I architecture.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Very nice! I'm hoping to achieve ~3.8-4.0 stable when I get my AM3. From what I've heard OCing Am3 is pretty different than 939, so I guess I'll be learning all over again.







I don't mind, I like learning new tech.

I have one of the most budget/basic AM2+/AM3 boards with the lowest SB chipset available, with a (now) 3.542GHz OC, so 3.8 should definitely be a highly achievable OC with the SB750 chipset. And honestly, I didn't see a huge difference with AM2+/AM3 OC'ing. Besides different numbers and multipliers, it's all the same. I think going from Intel to AMD OC'ing would be a big difference though







.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes Pez; the Kuma is a K10.


----------



## Tator Tot

@Pez, I said "and yes even my kuma" because most people do not realize that the 7x50 Athlon x2 chips are K10 based.

So I just through that in there as a note so they new.

@Blitz, SB750 is only needed for Phenom II's when you are Core unlocking. Other than that, they already have a built in ACC to the chip.

Also, from what I've seen, SB or NB doesn't matter to much in AMD overclocking with K10.5 CPU's. Atleast in the normal range of what people are getting, 3.6-4.2+ghz. When you get into the 4.2ghz+ range though, it seems that board becomes more of a factor at that point.

But the boards overall build does matter. My old 780G/SB700 Jetway board is able to do the same overclock on a 720BE as my 790FX/SB750 Foxconn board.

They can both push that chip to 235HTx17=3.995ghz.

On one end, you have a top of the line Foxconn 790FX with a matured BIOS, and the SB750.

On the other end, you have a strait from the factory BIOS, cheap board, not designed with overclocking in mind. But it had a nice layout as far as power management and circuitry went. Solid caps, and Fer. chokes.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
@Pez, I said "and yes even my kuma" because most people do not realize that the 7x50 Athlon x2 chips are K10 based.

So I just through that in there as a note so they new.

@Blitz, SB750 is only needed for Phenom II's when you are Core unlocking. Other than that, they already have a built in ACC to the chip.

Also, from what I've seen, SB or NB doesn't matter to much in AMD overclocking with K10.5 CPU's. Atleast in the normal range of what people are getting, 3.6-4.2+ghz. When you get into the 4.2ghz+ range though, it seems that board becomes more of a factor at that point.

But the boards overall build does matter. My old 780G/SB700 Jetway board is able to do the same overclock on a 720BE as my 790FX/SB750 Foxconn board.

They can both push that chip to 235HTx17=3.995ghz.

On one end, you have a top of the line Foxconn 790FX with a matured BIOS, and the SB750.

On the other end, you have a strait from the factory BIOS, cheap board, not designed with overclocking in mind. But it had a nice layout as far as power management and circuitry went. Solid caps, and Fer. chokes.

Oh alright, must have misread a bit







.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Oh alright, must have misread a bit







.

It's alright, it's a bit of a confusing statement, but lets just all blame AMD for confusing us by making K10 based Athlon CPU's.


----------



## BlackOmega

Oh good to know that AM3 isn't all that different. I guess I'll have to figure out the NB when I get there. And I have never been one for using the multi to OC. Hell, if anything I've always lowered it to gain MHz. So when people are like zomg get a BE for the unlocked multi, I'm like







, like that means anything.

As for boards, at first I was going to go with the GB UD5P, but then the DFI 790FXB-M3H5 board came out and I like the layout better. So I think I'll be getting that.

Money will dictate which CPU I end up with and I'll lap it after I verify it works. I very pleased with the results of my lapped 3800x2 with either my xiggy DK or my lapped BT, even at ridiculously high voltages. Temps are just as good as my naked 3500+.

Man I can't wait.


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

can someone look around ebay for a trusted motherboard? I need one for my 3800x2 and i don't ebay....


----------



## Tator Tot

@Black Omega, hold off on that board, I would grab the Asus M4A79T Deluxe, the DFI Lanparty UT 790FX (it's coming soon) or the UD5P.

The DFI 790FX DK is under performing compared to the other AM3 offerings, and it's said to have a Worse BIOS than the AM2+ version.

Though, the UT is supposed to be champ from early looks.


----------



## Blitz6804

My biggest regret is that I got the DK 790FX-M2RS rather than the UT 790FX-M2R; if you can wait on it, get the UT.


----------



## BlackOmega

Good to know that a UT version is coming out. Any ideas about release dates? I more than likely won't be making my Am3 purchase until Nov. (Black Friday) so I can get the best deal. Hopefully, if I play my cards right I'll wind up with a 965








Thanks for the heads up on the DK boards, sucks that they have gimped BIOS's. For the price it should have a full BIOS.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary* 
can someone look around ebay for a trusted motherboard? I need one for my 3800x2 and i don't ebay....

BigpoppaFrary, theCanadian is one of a few people selling an enthusiast-class S939 motherboard.









Click here.


----------



## Blitz6804

Slightly gimped BIOS, slightly lower quality power delivery, a few less whistles but all the bells. The JR series is significantly less.


----------



## TheSandman

hmm when my new gigabye 770 board and x2 240 arrive if i can hit 3.4 on it easy ill be content lol

as for OCing from what ive read K10.5/K10 and K8 OC real similar, so the learning curve im hoping isnt as steep has K7 to K8, I had to relearn to OC my 64 3200 that replaced an XP2500


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Slightly gimped BIOS, slightly lower quality power delivery, a few less whistles but all the bells. The JR series is significantly less.


 Thats still pretty crappy though. The boards are fairly expensive, that M3H5 is $170, the UD5P is only $5 more and that has a full BIOS and better PWM. 
If I learned anything from my A8N32 is that high quality, consistent power is a must, if you want a good OC and get every last little bit out of your hardware.

Now to find some good cheap folding GPU's









I


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Thats still pretty crappy though. The boards are fairly expensive, that M3H5 is $170, the UD5P is only $5 more and that has a full BIOS and better PWM. 
If I learned anything from my A8N32 is that high quality, consistent power is a must, if you want a good OC and get every last little bit out of your hardware.

Now to find some good cheap folding GPU's










I


Meh, I'd just get the Asus and stay away from the DFI's. My experiences with their newer stuff hasn't been to great. Always one problem or another. However my problems were with LanParty Jr 790GX-M2RS. I wouldn't recommend them any more. Some might be able to overclock like a dream, but how long they last is another story.

One exception is their 939 boards... they are AWESOME though! I still recommend them to people! Man I wish I kept the nF4 SLI DR Expert =/

Good luck


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


BigpoppaFrary, theCanadian is one of a few people selling an enthusiast-class S939 motherboard.









Click here.


heck yes. if i can find a friend who has a 3800 and test my chip to make sure it still works i may pick this up.


----------



## Hueristic

Check out these prizes!
http://www.overclock.net/overclock-n...foldathon.html

Sign up, You only have to complete 1 WU! You mods too.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Check out these prizes!
http://www.overclock.net/overclock-n...foldathon.html

Sign up, You only have to complete 1 WU! You mods too.


Already signed up.

I've been doing these since June when I found out.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


It's alright, it's a bit of a confusing statement, but lets just all blame AMD for confusing us by making K10 based Athlon CPU's.


Haha, amen.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Slightly gimped BIOS, slightly lower quality power delivery, a few less whistles but all the bells. The JR series is significantly less.


Where you been blitzy?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheSandman*


hmm when my new gigabye 770 board and x2 240 arrive if i can hit 3.4 on it easy ill be content lol

as for OCing from what ive read K10.5/K10 and K8 OC real similar, so the learning curve im hoping isnt as steep has K7 to K8, I had to relearn to OC my 64 3200 that replaced an XP2500


Are you getting the AM3 or AM2+ version? Either way, I got a 3.4ghz oc on my 940 with just a multi bump, didn't even need vcore.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I'm in the garage on my working DFI Expert mobo on a Magnavox 27" CRT Analog TV. F Ya, I finally got my bench TV working in the Garage. I had to use My oldest PCIe card that I used in my DFI daily Driver rig. It is a Winfast 6600 not GT just PD or something like that but it is the only card that I have atm that has a 9 pin S- video port for Analog TV's Yayyyyyyyy it works. ...

Now if I can only get the onboard sound working on this Expert mobo.










Nice, I've been useing svid (for years) and on my 36" Mitsubishi I think the quality is just as good as any of these new LCD/Plasma screens. Of course the thing weighs a few hundred pounds!

One problem I have now I think it was since the 182.5 drivers is that on boot up I have to resize the screen. does that happen to you?

AFA the onboards sound, I bey you have more unused pci slots than you know what to do with. Just stick a Card in there, It's not worth the time if it's the damaged board that I'm thinking of. Your starting to fall into the trap I've been in. Repairing everything and spending more time on it then it deserves!









NOW, I'm waiting on you to get that Venus up and running! That should be you watercool project!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *XAslanX*


Add me, I have taken on a 939 system as my second system after upgrading a family members PC.



















Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


For those of you wondering where I have been: I lost power due to a thunderstorm around 8pm Sunday night. National Grid said it would be back by 3 AM. I got power back around 7:30 AM... ...


Man I could tell you a few stories about NGrid.







I mad them look the fool at the PUC twice, The first time they had an engineer and 3 lawyers and I smoked them and the second time they only sent one lawyer and I had him soo rattled by telling him that I smoked the last 3 and they must have thrown in the towel only sending him that I made him look the fool.








I've got quite the list they are liable for right now. Class action may be in the future.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Already signed up.

I've been doing these since June when I found out.










Nice, did you get in in time for the quartely's?

And did you find any facts on the I/O bandwidth of those cards? I spent quite a while and came up empty. Even though It's a dead tech now I still hate that dumping it was pushed down our throats and want to know exactly when (IF: everyone says 4870 with saturate but no-one shows proof) it became saturated (I.E> what series ATI and Nvidia chipset).


----------



## GuardianOdin

question for you all.

What would the fastest/largest Video Card for my rig that wouldn't bottle neck my system terribly?

I've been thinking of upgrading my 8800GT since I got this Acer 23.?? inch LCD


----------



## Blitz6804

Pez: See Hueristic's post supra. He always seems to have the right info at the right time. (In this case, regards where I have been.)

BlackOmega: The difference was more stark when I built my PC. The DK was $120, the UT was $199. The DK 790FXB-M2RSH (its a DK with an SB 750 instead of an SB 600) did not exist at the time, which fills the gap between the other two AM2+ motherboards. The BIOS is not lacking by any stretch of the imagination, but there are a few things that would be nice to have. For example, my DK can do integral or half-integral multipliers for the CPU. The UT can do fractional multipliers through the use of FID and DID. The DK is good to a 125 W CPU, and so Vdroops with an overclocked Deneb. The UT is good to a 140 W CPU, so I would assume it would not Vdroop. (My DK does not droop while stock, and never Vdrooped with my Brisbane.) The UT has more voltage options for Vcore, the DK can adjust the Vcore only by 25 mV increments. I do not think either of then have a Northbridge voltage adjustment at present, but a BIOS update might fix this. (Both can adjust CPU-NB voltage, which is a different setting. Using K10Stat, you can get around this limitation.)

simfreak47: I have been quite happy with my DFI; it is about on par with my AT8-32X in terms of BIOS options. The physical BIOS looks eerily similar to the same. The_Gamer294 on the other hand was not so fortunate. From the day he got his DFI, it was not working properly, and has been getting worse for a while. He recently replaced it with a Gigabyte, which he seems to enjoy. I personally have had a lot of problems with Asus, but they have all been from the Skt A era, so I am unsure if their product nowadays is more reliable.

GuardianOdin: An 8800 GTS, 9800 GTX, 9800 GTX+, or GTS 250 would all serve you well.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Nice, I've been useing svid (for years) and on my 36" Mitsubishi I think the quality is just as good as any of these new LCD/Plasma screens. Of course the thing weighs a few hundred pounds!

One problem I have now I think it was since the 182.5 drivers is that on boot up I have to resize the screen. does that happen to you?

AFA the onboards sound, I bey you have more unused pci slots than you know what to do with. Just stick a Card in there, It's not worth the time if it's the damaged board that I'm thinking of. Your starting to fall into the trap I've been in. Repairing everything and spending more time on it then it deserves!









NOW, I'm waiting on you to get that Venus up and running! That should be you watercool project!

Nice, my 27" Magnovox CRT TV has terrible picture and is a far cry from the picture quality of my 40" Samsung 1080P LCD. I can use just about any resolution that is available on the magnavox so long as the TV option is selected in the Nvidia Control pannel. The picture is best on lowest resolution 640 x 480 or 800 x 640

One thing I noticed is that if I select a refresh rate above the 200 range my mouse pointer moves super fast IDK why just yet. It almost feels like the whole computer is overclocked w/that one setting. LOL









I have the Venus on the back burner until I can get a cheap next to free CPU for testing. If I can remember correctly the Venus board does power the fan on the chipset so that is a good sign. Yes that would be a nice OC baord on H2O.









I started tested the PCI slot's to make sure they still work and so far the bottom slot works. I had a 27" TV 19" CRT and 14" CRT all working and was going to post a picture of it the other night but I got tired fast and ended up crasing. I think I slept most of yesterday to make up for the lack of sleep the night before. I quess I'll just have to get a elcheapo Soundcard if I ever want sound but in all honesty I just got the board because I got such a good deal on it that I wanted to see if I could get it working. It was one of those ebay listings as is not tested.







I I ended up w/two of them for the price of less then one because the listing did not mention damaged capacitors. The only reason I'd like to get the onboard sound working is if in the future I decide to sell it makes it a little more attractive if the onboard audio works. The onboard Audio on these NF4 DFI's is actually pretty good. Now I have not had a nice Creative since ISA or EISA but I'm sure the newer PCI PCIe sound cards will deliver better perfomance but at a cost. If I had a job I would worry about repair time the thing that urks me is not knowing how to fix it. I have a few different factory sound module risers for all of my NF4 DFI mobo's that have all been tested working so I know it's something on the mobo causing the issue. I think I'll just heed your advice though and cut my loss and save some time. maybe I can sell one of the riser sound cards for a DFI and make some money to buy a Creative sound card. I have an old PCI card but it don't work w/xp x64. Hmm I still have a few days left for the Win 7 RC maybe I'll try that to see if Win 7 will load drivers for it.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Nice, did you get in in time for the quartely's?

And did you find any facts on the I/O bandwidth of those cards? I spent quite a while and came up empty. Even though It's a dead tech now I still hate that dumping it was pushed down our throats and want to know exactly when (IF: everyone says 4870 with saturate but no-one shows proof) it became saturated (I.E> what series ATI and Nvidia chipset).

Yeah, I'm signed up in the thread, and I turned in WU's.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
question for you all.

What would the fastest/largest Video Card for my rig that wouldn't bottle neck my system terribly?

I've been thinking of upgrading my 8800GT since I got this Acer 23.?? inch LCD

I'd get a GTS 250, probably your best bet. But since you are running a 1080p res, I would look at the 1gb variety, the extra VRAM will help alot.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Yeah, I'm signed up in the thread, and I turned in WU's.

I'd get a GTS 250, probably your best bet. But since you are running a 1080p res, I would look at the 1gb variety, the extra VRAM will help alot.


Thanks Tator, I'll go check that out.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Pez: See Hueristic's post supra. He always seems to have the right info at the right time. (In this case, regards where I have been.)


Um, what?

And for guardian, you would bottleneck with a 4870, but on games that need graphical power on a 1080p res, it'd be fine, and when you finally upgrade, you'll have a better card.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Um, what?

And for guardian, you would bottleneck with a 4870, but on games that need graphical power on a 1080p res, it'd be fine, and when you finally upgrade, you'll have a better card.


Blitzy's fondness for fancy Latin phrasing has a tendency to obfuscate occasionally.

Post supra = "After what's above."


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Blitzy's fondness for fancy Latin phrasing has a tendency to obfuscate occasionally.

Post supra = "After what's above." 










Joe, at first I thought he was talking about a 2JZ Supra's


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Joe, at first I thought he was talking about a 2JZ Supra's










Blitzy?

Naw.


----------



## Blitz6804

"Supra" = Prior
"Infra" = Forthcoming

Sorry.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
"Supra" = Prior
"Infra" = Forthcoming

Sorry.

Blitz, no worries just giving you a hard time.

Speaking of hard time police, where has Joe been with his overclocking contest announcements? *yawn*


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz, no worries just giving you a hard time.

Speaking of hard time police, where has Joe been with his overclocking contest announcements? *yawn*









Contest?

What contest?

We haven't had a Club-exclusive contest since... gosh, I don't even remember.

Honestly, though, thlnk3rb377's been ringing my bell for a one-on-one showdown. S939 Club Co-Founders Shootout, best OC wins.









What do you fellas say? Who wants to see that happen?


----------



## Tator Tot

I could always go for seeing some head to head action from the two of you.


----------



## thlnk3r

Battling Joe is like playing a Atari 2600....tooooo easyyyyyyy


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Battling Joe is like playing a Atari 2600....tooooo easyyyyyyy












Them's fighting words, son!

If I'm an Atari 2600, I have no choice but to look at you like you're a Nintendo Game & Watch.

txtmstrjoe:









thlnk3rb377:









Bet on black, you'll never look back. Bet on red, you're better off dead.


----------



## thlnk3r

Joe, you still overclock like my Grandma. All I hear is "ZZZZZzzzzzzzzz"....


----------



## txtmstrjoe

What the?!?

Man, I'm so confident about my chances, I hereby declare that I'll beat you using the buggiest, most troublesome, most annoying motherboard I have in my collection.

That's right, buddy: The CFX3200-DR will avenge itself. :swearing:

It's gonna go take your roody poo you know what and check it directly into the Smackdown Hotel.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


It's gonna go take your roody poo you know what and check it directly into the Smackdown Hotel.


Bring it Granny


----------



## GuardianOdin

LOL....do it do it!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Bring it Granny










Yo, Game & Watch, now that you know what I'm bringing to the party, what are YOU gonna run?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Yo, Game & Watch, now that you know what I'm bringing to the party, what are YOU gonna run?


Joe, I'm running whatever your Momma is running......wait what exactly is she running?


----------



## N2Gaming

That's too funny now drink up







and get all happy and then







Kiss and make up like little boys that just finished throwing stones at each other. Well in my case it would have been fresh picked green walnuts but you get the picture. man them were the days. Walnut WARS







them suckers hurt too espedially if you get blind sided up side the cranium w/one. Ooo oOO you all remember this one " A fight a fight " LOL I can't say the rest.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Joe, I'm running whatever your Momma is running......wait what exactly is she running?










Wait a sec.

Do you even HAVE a S939 rig up these days?!?


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


"Supra" = Prior
"Infra" = Forthcoming

Sorry.


I'm on a socket 754 PC right now that has trouble opening pages in IE in different tabs, so to search through all of that isn't delightful...mind restating? Or quoting?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Wait a sec.

Do you even HAVE a S939 rig up these days?!?

Joe, actually no I don't. After I sold my DFI board all I've been using is my IBM Thinkpad R40. I think I've mastered the Touchpad


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, actually no I don't. After I sold my DFI board all I've been using is my IBM Thinkpad R40. I think I've mastered the Touchpad









waite a second, I thought joe was working on a system for you. Antec 900 and NF4 SLI DR w/opty 180 no???


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
waite a second, I thought joe was working on a system for you. Antec 900 and NF4 SLI DR w/opty 180 no???

N2Gaming, no I don't think so. I have a Antec 900 that is currently not being used (awaiting Paint) though. I sold my SLI-DR for some upgrade money to AM3 but that is on hold until next year


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, no I don't think so. I have a Antec 900 that is currently not being used (awaiting Paint) though. I sold my SLI-DR for some upgrade money to AM3 but that is on hold until next year









Oh ok sorry about that. I guess a few like me joe and hue are teh only ones that hold on to old hardware.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
waite a second, I thought joe was working on a system for you. Antec 900 and NF4 SLI DR w/opty 180 no???

Actually, N2G, thlnk3r will be working on something for me. A Lian Li PC-V2000B which will feature some mods, similar to the work he did on my PC-V1000B (Darth Raivo).

The PC-V2000B will debut next year, when I hope to run quad-power for the first time.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Actually, N2G, thlnk3r will be working on something for me. A Lian Li PC-V2000B which will feature some mods, similar to the work he did on my PC-V1000B (Darth Raivo).

The PC-V2000B will debut next year, when I hope to run quad-power for the first time.









COOL MAN !!! I don't know any thing about that type of case but I know you love the quad core if you do any seriouse video coding or gaming that takes advantage of quad cores. I'm sure your waiting ever so patiently for all the great hardware to come out at reasonable prices.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Oh ok sorry about that. I guess a few like me joe and hue are teh only ones that hold on to old hardware.









N2Gaming, oh no I still have all my old S939 hardware. Matter of fact I have too much junk I am hoarding right now haha. The money I made off the DFI went to baby accessories


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Yo, Game & Watch, speaking of S939 hardware, Killer Grandma here wants to know what she'll be running against in this here contest of ours.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
... S939 Club Co-Founders Shootout, best OC wins. 









What do you fellas say? Who wants to see that happen?

































Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Battling Joe is like playing a Atari 2600....tooooo easyyyyyyy









BuuRN!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, I'm running whatever your Momma is running......wait what exactly is she running?









OUCH!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Wait a sec.

Do you even HAVE a S939 rig up these days?!?

OH no you didn't!

I'd like to to see the 2 of you head to head with the same gear on a obscure title fps as a benchmark!

Like a up to date ******* rampage or some such thing.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, no I don't think so. I have a Antec 900 that is currently not being used (awaiting Paint) though. I sold my SLI-DR for some upgrade money to AM3 but that is on hold until next year









I'm still holding back as long as possible.

USB 3.0
SATA 6GB/s
Rectangle Hard Disk Drives (in SATA 6GB/s of course)
AM3+
Faster, cheaper, larger DDR3
PCIe 3.0

Basically, I'm planning on sitting another year or so with this rig, besides cosmetic upgrades.

Probably a couple of 23" monitors, I know I'm dumpin alot of money into my December planned mod, and possibly water cooling. I haven't decided how far I want to take that yet. (Water that is)


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, oh no I still have all my old S939 hardware. Matter of fact I have too much junk I am hoarding right now haha. The money I made off the DFI went to baby accessories









Oh now I get it. either you have one in the oven "well not you but your significant other or you recently played catcher in the delivery room" either way I'd have to say NP and just sell all your hoarded crap then and spoil that sucker and let him/her know that you'll do any thing you can to make his/her life as good as possible.







I think these DFI 939 mobo's are indistructible & will prolly be around quite a few years to come...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 

I'd like to to see the 2 of you *head to head with the same gear* on a obscure title fps as a benchmark!


Come to think of it, THIS idea is VERY interesting.









Destro approves.


----------



## thlnk3r

Tator, I think at least another year will suffice until I upgrade. I look forward to the day solid state drives are the norm









Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Come to think of it, THIS idea is VERY interesting.









Destro approves.









Cobra disapproves. I do not have anything comparable to what you have. How about HIGHEST processor and memory overclock put together? Are we doing stability tests or is this suicide?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Tator, I think at least another year will suffice until I upgrade. I look forward to the day solid state drives are the norm









Same here. I wanna see what a RAID 0 SSD setup is like.
















Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Cobra disapproves. I do not have anything comparable to what you have. How about HIGHEST processor and memory overclock put together? Are we doing stability tests or is this suicide?

I think what Hue meant is that we take the same set of core components (say, we use my CFX3200, the same Opty 170, the same RAM, etc.), and see who can get a higher clock out of them. In theory, that's a brilliant idea.

The only problem with that is, well, if it comes down to cooling-based instabilities, Destro loses to Cobra Commander on account of his poorer ambient temperatures.









But, if we go head-to-head, run-what-you-brung, I think we go for highest clock on OCCT V.3.0 (or whatever the latest version is) default test stable. If I'm not mistaken, that's a 1-hour test. No other benches.

Any suggestions from the audience?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Same here. I wanna see what a RAID 0 SSD setup is like.
















I think what Hue meant is that we take the same set of core components (say, we use my CFX3200, the same Opty 170, the same RAM, etc.), and see who can get a higher clock out of them. In theory, that's a brilliant idea.

The only problem with that is, well, if it comes down to cooling-based instabilities, Destro loses to Cobra Commander on account of his poorer ambient temperatures.









But, if we go head-to-head, run-what-you-brung, I think we go for highest clock on OCCT V.3.0 (or whatever the latest version is) default test stable. If I'm not mistaken, that's a 1-hour test. No other benches.

Any suggestions from the audience?

I say the winner gets to spit in the eye of the looser.







j/k a bad one at that.







That would make it real red neck like. Jeff Foxworthy Style. You just might be ******* if you ever got to spit in the eye of you competition.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Tator, I think at least another year will suffice until I upgrade. I look forward to the day solid state drives are the norm









I have faith in Rectangular HDD tech, as that doesn't require Western Digital, Seagate, Hitachi, Samsung, or Fujitsu to scrap the HDD manufacturing plants, just change a few things.

So they'll probably back that more, and it's theoretical performance tops that of the performance of the Intel SLC SSD's, which are crazy in price. and rectangular HDD's will not be, as they'll still offer the same Price/GB but a much better Price/performance.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
I have faith in Rectangular HDD tech, as that doesn't require Western Digital, Seagate, Hitachi, Samsung, or Fujitsu to scrap the HDD manufacturing plants, just change a few things.

So they'll probably back that more, and it's theoretical performance tops that of the performance of the Intel SLC SSD's, which are crazy in price. and rectangular HDD's will not be, as they'll still offer the same Price/GB but a much better Price/performance.

TT, I've never heard of Rectangular HDDs.









Gotta Google that in a sec.

Are they still mechanical HDDs?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I think what Hue meant is that we take the same set of core components (say, we use my CFX3200, the same Opty 170, the same RAM, etc.), and see who can get a higher clock out of them.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
TT, I've never heard of Rectangular HDDs.









Gotta Google that in a sec.

Are they still mechanical HDDs?

Nope, not mechanical any more. So about 70% of fault is taken out of the equation.

Check this out Joe & Th|nker

http://www.overclock.net/hardware-ne...ould-hard.html


----------



## txtmstrjoe

TT, TYVM for the link.

Been reading from Googles. VERY interesting. I'm sure prototypes are up and running and are being tested. Based on the specs, it certainly destroys anything else in terms of performance per watt.


----------



## Tator Tot

It definitely rocks every category of mainstream & IT storage solutions.

And I do believe the bigs boys (WD, SG, Hitachi, & Fujitsu) have RHDD's up right now. I can't remember how close they were to a final spec, but considering the grasp HDD's have on the market, I bet it will be a bit of time before they actually hit the main stream sector.

My easiest guess would be when the next SAS/SATA standard hits motherboards as a native interface.

It would be the most logical choice then.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Nope, not mechanical any more. So about 70% of fault is taken out of the equation.

Check this out Joe & Th|nker

http://www.overclock.net/hardware-ne...ould-hard.html


Tator, to be honest this is the first time I've heard of this tech. Thanks for the info


----------



## Tator Tot

No problem man. I'm rather addicted to the OCN news section, so I usually read while I'm bored via my phone.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
I'm on a socket 754 PC right now that has trouble opening pages in IE in different tabs, so to search through all of that isn't delightful...mind restating? Or quoting?

As Hueristic already said, see post 17,770.


----------



## Bogeyone001

Hey all hows it going


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bogeyone001* 
Hey all hows it going


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Any y'all willing to make wagers amongst yourselves to see which S939 Co-Founder wins this One-On-One OCing Shootout?









I've already declared which machine I plan to use for this. My esteemed opponent, however, seems to be playing his cards much closer to his chest...


----------



## Bogeyone001

o crap right after i posted this my raid drives wenty blue screen and now wont start up.. im on my other hdd


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Any y'all willing to make wagers amongst yourselves to see which S939 Co-Founder wins this One-On-One OCing Shootout?









I've already declared which machine I plan to use for this. My esteemed opponent, however, seems to be playing his cards much closer to his chest...









http://wavs.unclebubby.com/wav/TREK/...er/insdata.wav


----------



## N2Gaming

Boogie I'm off to shoot a few rounds of pool and act a fool


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*









Boogie I'm off to shoot a few rounds of pool and act a fool














































:cheers :


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I think what Hue meant is that we take the same set of core components (say, we use my CFX3200, the same Opty 170, the same RAM, etc.), and see who can get a higher clock out of them. :

But, if we go head-to-head, run-what-you-brung, I think we go for highest clock on OCCT V.3.0 (or whatever the latest version is) default test stable. If I'm not mistaken, that's a 1-hour test. No other benches.

Any suggestions from the audience?


 The core components would be a good one. As for the run-whut-ya-brung, I think it should be OC amount rather than highest clock.

As for SSD's, I read about them a while ago. They are blazing fast. Just expensive.


----------



## Blitz6804

Run-what-ya-brung has been done by us before.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bogeyone001*


o crap right after i posted this my raid drives wenty blue screen and now wont start up.. im on my other hdd


Bogeyone001, are there any error messages in the Raid setup? Which Raid were you running? By the way it's good to see you









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Run-what-ya-brung has been done by us before.


Blitz, oh do you want a piece of this S939 action too?


----------



## Tator Tot

I could consider firing up the Opty just to see if I have what it takes. Since I've only been A64 Overclocking for under a year now.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*





































:cheers :


I'm back, my Bro got an urge for Phili Piano and had to call it an early night.









So I'm
























































: drink







eep and feeling OK right about now. I think I started off like a king & doubled down w/some crown.







follled by some hard pounding of the rockies. How bout dem East Bay Raiders and SF Niners. Dems playing some good ball tonight heh... Gota go check the mail now cause my neighbors having a garage BBQ and I might just wonder over yonder to introduce my self.







Yo my name is Humpty pronounced w/a Umpfty. j/k

Honestly I don't care to see some seasoned vet's going at it. I'd rather see what the S939 community can bring together as a whole for a shoot out w/out prizes just for Chits & Gigles & oh yeah Pride in being able to say I did that.







I have a sneaky suspicion that Kryton could whoop some back sides in this one.














up for who-at ever you'll decide to challenge.







Drink em if you got em...Cheers w/root beers C:/Beers LOL I don't even know DOS commands.


----------



## thlnk3r

I smell the reincarnation of a S939 contest


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


I smell the reincarnation of a S939 contest










 Well If I get an H2O loop any time soon I may be a viable contendor.


----------



## N2Gaming

Has any one ever tried to use a windshield washer motor pump form a car as a H2O loop pump? 12Volts...


----------



## thlnk3r

N2Gaming, I believe most are 12volt. Perhaps BO can confirm for us.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, I believe most are 12volt. Perhaps BO can confirm for us.

Good luck


 I belive they are all 12v but I'm thinking a car washer pump don't have the umph to handle 24/7 or even a few hours of prolonged pumpage power.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


As Hueristic already said, see post 17,770.


Well I didn't see that before -_-.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Has any one ever tried to use a windshield washer motor pump form a car as a H2O loop pump? 12Volts...









LOl, have 2 that have been sitting in my work room waiting to this. I think it will work but will be low flow.

They are cleaned up and painted centari gloss black and come attached to the res which is nice.

Yes they are 12v.


----------



## Blitz6804

Series 'em?

Thlnk3r: Unless Joe can get my Toledo working again, I lack a Socket 939 processor at all. Even if he did, I lack any DDR RAM, and my Gigabyte is hardly an "extreme" overclocker, and I would stand no chance in heck of winning.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Series 'em?

Thlnk3r: Unless Joe can get my Toledo working again, I lack a Socket 939 processor at all. Even if he did, I lack any DDR RAM, and my Gigabyte is hardly an "extreme" overclocker, and I would stand no chance in heck of winning.


I would send you my backup 3200+ and some ddr (2100







) If you want for things like this.


----------



## Blitz6804

Very generous of you Hue; I will have to debate about it.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, I believe most are 12volt. Perhaps BO can confirm for us.

Good luck


 They're most definitely 12volt. But the problem I would surmise with a washer pump is that I don't think they'd be up for 24/7 use without some sort of active cooling. I think they'd get too hot and fry. I mean you got to figure that they're only run for at most 10 seconds at a time.

Now a fuel pump on the other hand would be able to take that no problem, but it would have to be immersed in the water since it is a "wet" pump. You might get corrosion issues with it however. 
You could use ethylene glycol (antifreeze) which has some rust inhibiting properties. You guys could also get this stuff called water wetter. It changes the surface tension of water and actually makes it cool better. Drops temps by up to 30*C in a car.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Series 'em?


 Series or not, I think that they'd get too hot. But you never know its worth a shot. They're REALLY cheap, ~ $10 ea. at your local parts store for the Ford ones.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Very generous of you Hue; I will have to debate about it.

NP, let me know.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
...Now a fuel pump on the other hand would be able to take that no problem, but it would have to be immersed in the water since it is a "wet" pump. You might get corrosion issues with it however. ...But you never know its worth a shot. They're REALLY cheap, ~ $10 ea. at your local parts store for the Ford ones.

I've got a few dry pumps from my jags. one 35lb from the v12 injected and one 6lb on my 360 conversion.

I got the WW pumps and res. from junkyard for $5. so who cares if it burns out Lol.


----------



## N2Gaming

BO Blitz & Hue, I was thinking the car washer pumps would not hold up under extended periods of time.

Now on the other hand a cheap fuel pump from let's say a 1985 honda accord is out side of the tank so I guess that would make it a dry pump???

It might do the job no? I can prolly pick up one of those really cheap at the Auto Salvage yards.

I could also make a res. out of almost anything that is plastic and some JB Weld or two part epoxy.

I don't know if a fuel pump would hold up to extented periods of use either w/out some kind of rest but then again they are designed to deliver fule constantly at a specific PSI like 30-60 PSI so I would prolly have to use a Petcock valve or something to control the flow rate.

Thanks for the Idea BO.

Thank you also Hueristic I'd like to know if you ever get around to testing the washer pump in it's own reservoir just to see how it works.

Can't forget about blitz's idea of running them in series. Sounds complicated and would prolly require 2x smaller diameter tubing w/a Y fitting into one larger ID tubing for combined flow. Hmm


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


BO Blitz & Hue, I was thinking the car washer pumps would not hold up under extended periods of time.

Now on the other hand a cheap fuel pump from let's say a 1985 honda accord is out side of the tank so I guess that would make it a dry pump???

It might do the job no? I can prolly pick up one of those really cheap at the Auto Salvage yards.

I could also make a res. out of almost anything that is plastic and some JB Weld or two part epoxy.

I don't know if a fuel pump would hold up to extented periods of use either w/out some kind of rest but then again they are designed to deliver fule constantly at a specific PSI like 30-60 PSI so I would prolly have to use a Petcock valve or something to control the flow rate.

Thanks for the Idea BO.

Thank you also Hueristic I'd like to know if you ever get around to testing the washer pump in it's own reservoir just to see how it works.

*Can't forget about blitz's idea of running them in series. Sounds complicated and would prolly require 2x smaller diameter tubing w/a Y fitting into one larger ID tubing for combined flow.* Hmm


 I think technically that would be parallel. Series would be 1 pump then somewhere down the line another pump.

As for using a fuel pump, I think the biggest headache would be regulating flow. Those pumps are designed to move a large amount of fuel over an extended period of time. If the fluid is in constant motion it would never actually have enough time to absorb the heat. 
Now if you put some sort of electronic thermostat on the cpu die that could cycle the pump on/off then it would work rather well. But keep in mind fuel pumps can be rather loud. I think a fuel pump off of a Geo Metro would probably be a better idea as it's a rather small displacement engine and its fuel demands aren't high.


----------



## Hueristic

N2 One is sitting on my bench and the other on the pool table (which is covered with tools). My nephew is trying to make a water block with a soda can and is going to use that pump.

I expect it will last a month or 2. It's been fun seeing him trying to solder onto a aluminum can. LOL 2 almost accomplished and woosh flash over! Hah

He's learning some good metallurgy on this project. It's almost been a year









:edit: I bought a generic 6-7lb external dry pump at pep boys for 8 dollars. I'ts a bit loud but it's in the trunk. But just for messing around it should work fine. Throw the loop out the window and run the pump outside!


----------



## Blitz6804

Hueristic: Depending on the temperature outside, that could be a good thing to do. I remember seeing a build log on OCN down in Texas where his radiator outside made things better. In the winter, temperatures were 50Âº F or so, a definate improvement from the 70Âº F inside. In the summer, it could be 100Âº F outside. However, with the hardware he was packing (two high-end gaming rigs) his office could get up to 110Âº F sometimes. Moving the radiators outside brought it way down.

N2Gaming:

Series: Reservoir ==> Pump ==> Pump ==> Radiator(s) ==> ==> CPU ==> Radiator(s) ==> GPU ==> NB ==> SB ==> Reservoir

Parallel: Reservoir ==> Y-tube ==> Pumps ==> Y-tube ==> Radiator(s) ==> ==> CPU ==> Radiator(s) ==> GPU ==> NB ==> SB ==> Reservoir

Series gives you a higher pressure, but a lower flow rate. Parallel gives you a higher flow rate, but a lower pressure. If you are using impingement blocks, or have a lot of 90Âº elbows, you will want the series. If you have some high-pressure pumps and your flow rate is slow, you could use parallel, but it might be better to get a higher flow pump.


----------



## Hueristic

I need to get some spare time to waterboard my tech station.









Well pills kicking in back to the cupboards.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


N2 One is sitting on my bench and the other on the pool table (which is covered with tools). My nephew is trying to make a water block with a soda can and is going to use that pump.

I expect it will last a month or 2. It's been fun seeing him trying to solder onto a aluminum can. LOL 2 almost accomplished and woosh flash over! Hah

He's learning some good metallurgy on this project. It's almost been a year









:edit: I bought a generic 6-7lb external dry pump at pep boys for 8 dollars. I'ts a bit loud but it's in the trunk. But just for messing around it should work fine. Throw the loop out the window and run the pump outside!










Cool you got the young'n working metal. If he can master Aluminium then he's golden. That is one of the hardest metals to join when using heat.

That 6-7lb pump almost sounds ideal. I could make a pump house to quiet it down a bit. I'd just stuff the inside of the house w/sound dampening foam









I have seen some nice projects regarding how to get H2O loops really cold. IDK but it's prolly already been done but I was thinking of using one of those really small cheap personal *"REMOVED"* & housing the pump/ Res and Rad inside the personal *"REMOVED"* to keep the loop really cool. I could also have a few cool drinks handy while I'm at it.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Hueristic: Depending on the temperature outside, that could be a good thing to do. I remember seeing a build log on OCN down in Texas where his radiator outside made things better. In the winter, temperatures were 50Âº F or so, a definate improvement from the 70Âº F inside. In the summer, it could be 100Âº F outside. However, with the hardware he was packing (two high-end gaming rigs) his office could get up to 110Âº F sometimes. Moving the radiators outside brought it way down.

N2Gaming:

Series: Reservoir ==> Pump ==> Pump ==> Radiator(s) ==> ==> CPU ==> Radiator(s) ==> GPU ==> NB ==> SB ==> Reservoir

Parallel: Reservoir ==> Y-tube ==> Pumps ==> Y-tube ==> Radiator(s) ==> ==> CPU ==> Radiator(s) ==> GPU ==> NB ==> SB ==> Reservoir

Series gives you a higher pressure, but a lower flow rate. Parallel gives you a higher flow rate, but a lower pressure. If you are using impingement blocks, or have a lot of 90Âº elbows, you will want the series. If you have some high-pressure pumps and your flow rate is slow, you could use parallel, but it might be better to get a higher flow pump.


I understand the diff in series and parallel. I use to run most of my car audio equitment in Parallel. Take a 4 Ohm speaker and Parallel it w/another 4 Ohm speaker and wham instant 2 Ohm speakers. Louder Bass







I know Water flow and electricity flow are not quite the same but in general I would use similar concept.


----------



## Hueristic

Ohh no you didn't say Removed!! :ducksAndcovers:

Lol You would be better off burying the rad and letting the earth cool it.









So ever year you have to replace a $20 radiator from corrosion, who cares.


----------



## N2Gaming

What is wrong w/the *"REMOVED"* idea???


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Removed!










I recommend editing out Removed!, there are a few here that I think do searches on it just to jump down peops throats that mention it.

Basically it won't work because the Removed! is not designed to run 24/7.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


I recommend editing out *"REMOVED"*, there are a few here that I think do searches on it just to jump down peops throats that mention it.

Basically it won't work because the *"REMOVED"* is not designed to run 24/7.


LOL I failz miserably and now I'm quoted on it. Kind of hard to remove it once it's quoted.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


LOL I failz miserably and now I'm quoted on it. Kind of hard to remove it once it's quoted.










ROTF! Removed!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
ROTF! Removed!


----------



## razr7

razr7 - AMD Athlon 64 3700+ @ 2.53GHz

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=653056


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *razr7* 
razr7 - AMD Athlon 64 3700+ @ 2.53GHz

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=653056


----------



## N2Gaming

GO'n for a bicycle ride will be back in a while to see if I missed any thing. Nice to see another 939'r so here is my " pre added to the members roster " Welcome to the club.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *razr7* 
razr7 - AMD Athlon 64 3700+ @ 2.53GHz

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=653056

Razr7, welcome to the club









I've added you to the roster. If you have any questions let us know! By the way nice overclock. Have you had much difficulties overclocking with 4 DIMM slots populated? Have you tried pushing that 3700+ a bit more?

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *razr7*


razr7 - AMD Athlon 64 3700+ @ 2.53GHz

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=653056



Welcome









On a side note, since when did the validations start including voltages?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


On a side note, since when did the validations start including voltages?










CPUz Build 1.52 IIRC.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


CPUz Build 1.52 IIRC.










Do we have to update the CPUZ application every time a new version is introduced in order to validate???


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Do we have to update the CPUZ application every time a new version is introduced in order to validate???











Uh....I think so...I can't really say for sure. I update every time I see a new one because of bug fixes and whatnot.

And because 1.52 looks pretty sexy.

I think you only have to update on ever .x change, not .xx change.

So if they put out 1.53 tomorrow, I think you could still use 1.52 to validate, but if 1.6 comes out, then you'll need that.


----------



## N2Gaming

Oh ok that makes sense. I remeber when I was on 1.49 and had to get the 1.50 or 1.51 in order to validate.

Thanks Tator.


----------



## Tator Tot

No problem man, random tidbits of information are my specialty.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


No problem man, random tidbits of information are my specialty.


Judging by your rep growth in the last week or two I'd have to say so. Yo, I had some PM's w/another un-named member about being a Rep-Whore we joked about it a bit but he surfed the Unanswered theads alot. I try to help users but when some noobs ask for help and you give it to them and they decide to take their own advice w/out even considering a better option that I suggested then I just insta-unsub.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Judging by your rep growth in the last week or two I'd have to say so. Yo, I had some PM's w/another un-named member about being a Rep-Whore we joked about it a bit but he surfed the Unanswered theads alot. I try to help users but when some noobs ask for help and you give it to them and they decide to take their own advice w/out even considering a better option that I suggested then I just insta-unsub.










I have a good rep to post ratio too.









But it's more or less luck of the thread I guess, but I also try to help out as best I can. I'm fairly ontop of new Tech, I know what's the best, and I know how to explain how it is the best. Usually









But I am a Rep Whore, my goal it to beat Duckie Ho









EDIT: If you sort Members by rep count, I am rank 25







I'm gonna say it now, I'm doin pretty damn good.

EDIT2:WAIT! How did you know I go by The Unnamed Tator Tot as well as Tator Tot?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
But it's more or less luck of the thread I guess, but I also try to help out as best I can. I'm fairly ontop of new Tech, I know what's the best, and I know how to explain how it is the best. Usually









Tator, if you are helping out members and solving problems then you most certainly deserve it. Being professional about it is also a plus! Keep it up


----------



## thlnk3r

Guys, sorry for the double post. Attached image shows the cable management on my CM690. I'll be using this puppy until I upgrade next year. Per my cooler, this board doesn't allow me to install it so that the pipes face vertically...


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

very nice


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary*


very nice










Thanks


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Guys, sorry for the double post. Attached image shows the cable management on my CM690. I'll be using this puppy until I upgrade next year. Per my cooler, this board doesn't allow me to install it so that the pipes face vertically...


That's a very nice!


----------



## N2Gaming

If I can remeber how I was raised and after a few silver bullets then if I'm thinking properly it would be nice to say nothing at all unless I have something nice to say.









Thanks for sharing your CM690 Thlnk3r, the cable management is impecable.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Meh, I can still see cables.










J/K, my man, that is cool! Much better than any of Blitzy's!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Meh, I can still see cables.










J/K, my man, that is cool! Much better than any of Blitzy's!
























You Rebel you...


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Guys, sorry for the double post. Attached image shows the cable management on my CM690. I'll be using this puppy until I upgrade next year. Per my cooler, this board doesn't allow me to install it so that the pipes face vertically...


9.6 out of 10.









But that's very orderly, and those last few points are all ascetics.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Meh, I can still see cables.










J/K, my man, that is cool! Much better than any of Blitzy's!
























Clearly. I still need to solder more extensions to properly hide everything. At least now I finally have a soldering iron. (I found a 20/40 W soldering station in RadioShack for $20... WIN!) I have to say though, that GPU cooler looks to be epic overkill, what sort of overclock you have on that?


----------



## thlnk3r

Thanks for the compliments guys and thanks Tator for the 9.6 out of 10 hehe

Blitz, I'm using the Thermalright V2 on my X850XT because it provides much better cooling than the factory cooler. I still have that busted up 1950Pro that I need to repair. The V2 should fit perfectly fine on that as well.

Currently no overclocks ...yet


----------



## OSDCrusher

I just finished building a computer. It has an Opteron 185 with an Abit AT8-32X motherboard. I first tried it with a 700w modular power supply. When I plugged in the system, I hear a loud, high-pitched squealing noise coming from the power supply. So I tried out a PSU that I knew was good, an Antec 430 Watt. When I plug it in, I hear no squealing; but, I hear a ticking noise coming from inside the power supply. I attempted to turn on the system with both power supplies and it never turned on. No LED's come on the motherboard, no fans spin, nothing just dead silence. Does anyone know what the problem is?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

OSDCrusher, when you ran the system with the 700W PSU, did the system power up at all?

Also, I'm a little unclear about this point: "I attempted to turn on the system with both power supplies and it never turned on." Do you mean both power supplies together (simultaneously), or each in turn?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OSDCrusher*


I just finished building a computer. It has an Opteron 185 with an Abit AT8-32X motherboard. I first tried it with a 700w modular power supply. When I plugged in the system, I hear a loud, high-pitched squealing noise coming from the power supply. So I tried out a PSU that I knew was good, an Antec 430 Watt. When I plug it in, I hear no squealing; but, I hear a ticking noise coming from inside the power supply. I attempted to turn on the system with both power supplies and it never turned on. No LED's come on the motherboard, no fans spin, nothing just dead silence. Does anyone know what the problem is?


Here's the thread.

http://www.overclock.net/amd-motherb...ml#post6967255


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Here's the thread.

http://www.overclock.net/amd-motherb...ml#post6967255


Hahaha I was just there. Good advice you shared there.









Wish he could answer my questions I posed here, though (only because I'm not sure what he meant).


----------



## OSDCrusher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


OSDCrusher, when you ran the system with the 700W PSU, did the system power up at all?

Also, I'm a little unclear about this point: "I attempted to turn on the system with both power supplies and it never turned on." Do you mean both power supplies together (simultaneously), or each in turn?


I did not use both at the same time. I used one and that didn't work. Then I took it out and tried another. I still haven't gotten it to power up yet.


----------



## OSDCrusher

I got it to work by putting it outside the case. I had to start it up by putting a screwdriver over the PLED + and - Now it won't start up anymore but the LEDs come on.


----------



## Blitz6804

It is possible the case was grounding the board. Make sure there are no lose wires between the motherboard and the case.


----------



## OSDCrusher

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
It is possible the case was grounding the board. Make sure there are no lose wires between the motherboard and the case.

That's exactly what I was thinking. I'm installing Windows XP on it now.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Hahaha I was just there. Good advice you shared there.




















Quote:



Originally Posted by *OSDCrusher*


That's exactly what I was thinking. *I'm installing Windows XP on it now*.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *OSDCrusher* 
That's exactly what I was thinking. I'm installing Windows XP on it now.

So what was the trick to get it going or do you even know what you did. I ask because some times I try a slew of things all at once and when I get something to work I don't know exactelly what I did. I'm wondering why your power supply is screetching?


----------



## Blitz6804

Potentially overloaded or aged capacitors are the most common causes of squealing.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Potentially overloaded or aged capacitors are the most common causes of squealing.


Or poor quality components. I have an Antec 350W PSU that hardly ever gets used and when it does boy does it squeal. Hasn't this topic come up before in this thread or was it in another thread? The topic was about squealing video cards. Some users were able to resolve the high pitch sounds by applying glue on the copper coils. Maybe something similar is present in some power supplies.


----------



## Blitz6804

It was in this thread regards squealing video cards.


----------



## Hueristic

I remember mentioning it in a few threads. Been siliconeing them for years.


----------



## OSDCrusher

I got it to work by putting it outside the case. I had to start it up by putting a screwdriver over the PLED + and - Now the problem is, whenever I go into the BIOS, I try to overclock the CPU. When I savw and exit, it just powers down and won't come back on unless I go turn it on again. Even if I discard changes and exit, it still powers down.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OSDCrusher*


I got it to work by putting it outside the case. I had to start it up by putting a screwdriver over the PLED + and - Now the problem is, whenever I go into the BIOS, I try to overclock the CPU. When I savw and exit, it just powers down and won't come back on unless I go turn it on again. Even if I discard changes and exit, it still powers down.


OSDCrusher, how high of an overclock are you attempting? After powering it on again, did the previous overclock save?

Good luck


----------



## OSDCrusher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


OSDCrusher, how high of an overclock are you attempting? After powering it on again, did the previous overclock save?

Good luck










I'm attempting to overclock the Opteron 185 from 2.60 to 3.0 Even if I try to overclock it by 10 MHz it will not save my changes. When I turn the system on again, it just reverts to the defaults.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OSDCrusher*


I'm attempting to overclock the Opteron 185 from 2.60 to 3.0 Even if I try to overclock it by 10 MHz it will not save my changes. When I turn the system on again, it just reverts to the defaults.


Do you have any overclocking experience in the past? Do you know about ram dividers and spd's etc. If you are new to overclocking then I'd say you should prolly read up on some OC guides. If your not new to Overclocking then good luck and best wishes on the overclocking front.


----------



## Blitz6804

Have you tried testing the voltage of the CR-2032 BIOS battery or replacing the same?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OSDCrusher*


I'm attempting to overclock the Opteron 185 from 2.60 to 3.0 Even if I try to overclock it by 10 MHz it will not save my changes. When I turn the system on again, it just reverts to the defaults.


OSDCrusher, as mentioned previously make sure you drop your memory divider so that you rule out memory frequency begin the issue with your overclock. Have tried to disabling Cool'n'Quiet to see if that helps? Try also disabling _Spread Spectrum_ in the bios.

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

OSDcrusher, does the BIOS save&exit powerdown happen with both PSU's or just one of them? If it only happens with one, have you tried using the other?

And just for kicks and giggles, have you tried using your corsair out of your sig rig? Just to rule out any issues with the other ones. Also, certain motherboards can be very particular about PSU is plugged in to them, yet another reason I suggested using your Corsair simply because it's a quality unit.


----------



## N2Gaming

Have not heard any thing back from OSD.

Thlnk3r you got your Sig Rig updated to an SLI mobo.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

OSD's got his rig up and running, but he still needs more experienced hands to help in his new thread.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
OSD's got his rig up and running, but he still needs more experienced hands to help in his new thread.









With his confusing BIOS lables


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
With his confusing BIOS lables









Truth be told, I'm not surprised. I've sampled lots of BIOSes, and unless you know exactly what you're looking for (looking not at the labels for the settings, but the settings themselves) it's easy to lose your way in the BIOS because there's not a lot of consensus when it comes to naming conventions for these settings.

I mean, why call the reference clock the "FSB" in a K8 BIOS? Totally stupid.







But I guess that's to cater to people who never knew what a HTT clock/reference clock is, and only know what an FSB is.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Thlnk3r you got your Sig Rig updated to an SLI mobo.









N2Gaming, it's a pretty decent board. Right now as the rig sits it's pretty quick and stable (well at stock of course). This processor though is not a friendly overclocker. I had troubles getting 200Mhz out of it even at 1.55 Vcore. I have a few other S939's laying around that I'll try










EDIT: I need to also get that busted up 1950Pro repaired...X-Plane 9 has some troubles at 1680x1050 on this X850XT hehe


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Truth be told, I'm not surprised. I've sampled lots of BIOSes, and unless you know exactly what you're looking for (looking not at the labels for the settings, but the settings themselves) it's easy to lose your way in the BIOS because there's not a lot of consensus when it comes to naming conventions for these settings.

I mean, why call the reference clock the "FSB" in a K8 BIOS? Totally stupid.







But I guess that's to cater to people who never knew what a HTT clock/reference clock is, and only know what an FSB is.


Oh I know, my Foxconn A79A-S had me running around in circles for the first day or so.

I had to actually remember Cool & Quiet being called PowerNow! as that's what it's labled, and somethings actually had the official AMD terminology....oh the headaches..


----------



## Blitz6804

PowerNow! has not been used since Skt A no? Talk about an epoch fail...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


I had to actually remember Cool & Quiet being called PowerNow! as that's what it's labled, and somethings actually had the official AMD terminology....oh the headaches..


Tator, hmmm that reminds me. I forgot to look that up in my BIOS to see if that would assist with my overclock. Sometimes the most obvious things are missed


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


PowerNow! has not been used since Skt A no? Talk about an epoch fail...


I think it actually changed after Socket 754, but I could be wrong.

Either way, I wouldn't really call it a fail, as my boards BIOS was definitely geared to more of the Veteran AMD overclockers. And not the faint of heart.


----------



## Blitz6804

I was pretty sure PowerNow! stopped with K7. When the K8 (Athlon64) came out, they had Cool 'n' Quiet instead.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I was pretty sure PowerNow! stopped with K7. When the K8 (Athlon64) came out, they had Cool 'n' Quiet instead.

I think you are correct, but I'm pretty sure that early socket 754 boards and maybe some Socket 939's called it PowerNow! still because of old Socket A overclockers being familiar with that.


----------



## Blitz6804

Oh I am sure of that. I am curious why an AM2+ board would do it too though. Hence the "epoch fail."


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Oh I am sure of that. I am curious why an AM2+ board would do it too though. Hence the "epoch fail."


I can't honestly give an excuse besides the Foxconn BIOS engineers are all half cookie, and probably drunk at the time.

Seeing as almost every other option in the BIOS has correct AMD terminology to it.

Or it was an after thought to all the amazing overclocking options I have, so they just had an intern throw it in


----------



## thlnk3r

That is interesting because PowerNow! is a separate technology for mobile processors from AMD


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


it's easy to lose your way in the BIOS because there's not a lot of consensus when it comes to naming conventions for these settings.


























Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


I can't honestly give an excuse besides the Foxconn BIOS engineers are all half cookie, and probably drunk at the time.


W0W, I didn't know foxconn wrote bios's


----------



## OSDCrusher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*

























W0W, I didn't know foxconn wrote bios's


Foxconn makes a lot of things for computers. They make Dell's motherboards too.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*

























W0W, I didn't know foxconn wrote bios's


The Foxconn Quantum Force team writes bios for the Quantum Force boards (BlackOps, MARS, Destoryer, Bloodrage)

But they also do BIOS for the Digital Life series, they just don't pay as much attention to our (digital life) BIOS as they do the Quantum Force series.

But there standard boards they usually just use AMI bios for, and don't worry about to much.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OSDCrusher*


Foxconn makes a lot of things for computers. They make Dell's motherboards too.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey Tator I was under the impression that Quantum Bios staff is of no longer working at Foxconn???


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hey Tator I was under the impression that Quantum Bios staff is of no longer working at Foxconn???


Fudzilla had rumors of Foxconn shutting down the Channel services, and some of the Quantum Force BIOS staff got laid off, but they are still pushing out BIOS updates for my boards (MARS, A79A-S, & BlackOps)


----------



## N2Gaming

Foxconn released a couple of bios updates since I've had the Destroyer but I have not received any replies on the Quantum force Forum.







I think they don't know how to respond to my questions about the NB to CPU multiplier missing in the bios. Oh well, it's still good to know that Foxconn is still there for us in one way or another.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Foxconn released a couple of bios updates since I've had the Destroyer but I have not received any replies on the Quantum force Forum.







I think they don't know how to respond to my questions about the NB to CPU multiplier missing in the bios. Oh well, it's still good to know that Foxconn is still there for us in one way or another.


To be frank, I've never touched their forums, nor even had the notion to. Have you tried sending them an email though?

Normally when i do that, I get a good response of "we're working on it and have not perfected it yet" or "try this beta BIOS if you want to"


----------



## N2Gaming

Yeah I don't even know if the quantum force forum is even up any more. When you say send them an email you mean the Foxconn tech supt team or the engineers that write the bios codes?

EDIT: http://www.quantum-force.net/ Proof. Been this way for a while now...


----------



## OSDCrusher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Foxconn released a couple of bios updates since I've had the Destroyer but I have not received any replies on the Quantum force Forum.







I think they don't know how to respond to my questions about the NB to CPU multiplier missing in the bios. Oh well, it's still good to know that Foxconn is still there for us in one way or another.


Do you have the latest version of the BIOS for that board?


----------



## N2Gaming

The latest bios that I know of is P16. If this is the latest bios then yes I have it.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Yeah I don't even know if the quantum force forum is even up any more. When you say send them an email you mean the Foxconn tech supt team or the engineers that write the bios codes?

EDIT: http://www.quantum-force.net/ Proof. Been this way for a while now...

Just the Foxconn Channel support staff themselves.

As for the Quantum Force site, they've done that in the past. Right after my MARS came out, it was down for 3 months or something ridiculous like that.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
The latest bios that I know of is P16. If this is the latest bios then yes I have it.

http://www.foxconnsupport.com/

Go there to look for new BIOS, I keep getting a network busy error, but it seems as my networks being a bit screwy at the minute.


----------



## N2Gaming

I'm pretty sure I have the latest bios. The last email I got a week ago from Foxconn Tech supt suggested that I default my bios settings before reflashing my bios to ver: P16. Any way you must be talking about the picture shown below when you say bussy.


----------



## OSDCrusher

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I'm pretty sure I have the latest bios. The last email I got a week ago from Foxconn Tech supt suggested that I default my bios settings before reflashing my bios to ver: P16. Any way you must be talking about the picture shown below when you say bussy.

Funny, when I went to that site I didn't get that message and that was four minutes ago.


----------



## Hueristic

I thought AMI, Award and Phoenix were the major suppliers and Mobo manufacturers edited their code.

I'd be surprised to see Foxconn actually wrote a bios.

IIRC the only other companies I know that have wrote thier own are Intel and I think Dell did (does?).

Oh almost forgot Mr. bios also. Mr. Bios is great if you need a custom bios for a board that a company no longer supports.

I'll check that link out when I get some time later and see if it's a modified phoenix (more than likely) or if this quantum team really wrote their own. I doubt it.

EDIT: N2 email that bios to me please.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I'm pretty sure I have the latest bios. The last email I got a week ago from Foxconn Tech supt suggested that I default my bios settings before reflashing my bios to ver: P16. Any way you must be talking about the picture shown below when you say bussy.

Yeah, that's what I was talking about.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
I thought AMI, Award and Phoenix were the major suppliers and Mobo manufacturers edited their code.

I'd be surprised to see Foxconn actually wrote a bios.

IIRC the only other companies I know that have wrote thier own are Intel and I think Dell did (does?).

Oh almost forgot Mr. bios also. Mr. Bios is great if you need a custom bios for a board that a company no longer supports.

Quatum Force takes AMI bios mostly, then they go at them, and edit/re-write them to their needs. But they are fairly heavily modified, this is more evident if you check out an early BIOS for a board, and then a new one.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Yeah, that's what I was talking about.

Quatum Force takes AMI bios mostly, then they go at them, and edit/re-write them to their needs. But they are fairly heavily modified, this is more evident if you check out an early BIOS for a board, and then a new one.

Ohh, Ok, then they don't write their own.

Your comments earlier surprised me.


----------



## Blitz6804

The newest version I see of the Destroyer's BIOS is 79CF1P16, released 06/19/2009.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *OSDCrusher* 
Funny, when I went to that site I didn't get that message and that was four minutes ago.

the sight is working but the bios download page is bussy, IDK ???








Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
EDIT: N2 email that bios to me please.

I'll see if I can figure it out, how to send it that is. It's prolly like 1G or so I don't remeber off hand the file size and I have to see if I can still find it from when I DL'd it.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
The newest version I see of the Destroyer's BIOS is 79CF1P16, released 06/19/2009.

Yup that is what I was thinking. I skip the 79CF1 and just call it the P16

EDIT: working on Avatar to drive you guys even more nut's lol


----------



## Hueristic

@N2 No! More, I give up I'll change my avy to a surrender flag!

1G Bios!???? Me thinks not.


----------



## N2Gaming

well the latest bios that I can find on my system is P14 ins a zip folder of 700KB. For the Avatar I'm thinking it is just a subtle change for the better. IDK you can be the judge.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
well the latest bios that I can find on my system is P14 ins a zip folder of 700KB. For the Avatar I'm thinking it is just a subtle change for the better. IDK you can be the judge.

Man, that avatar.

I've got four words for it: Holy Las Vegas, Batman!

Reminds me of those gnarly neon signs!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Man, that avatar.

I've got four words for it: Holy Las Vegas, Batman!

Reminds me of those gnarly neon signs!









Kinda sorta in a cheaper version lol


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
well the latest bios that I can find on my system is P14 ins a zip folder of 700KB. For the Avatar I'm thinking it is just a subtle change for the better. IDK you can be the judge.

I got the bios, I'll try to look at it later, got a freind comeing over soon that can't get on the net.









AVY looks good! I was afraid it was gonna be like that other one that made me wanna upchuck.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Reminds me of those gnarly neon signs!


----------



## OSDCrusher

I just got a stable overclock with my 185. It's now at 2.808 GHz with 1.475 volts. I'll keep trying to the CPU can't take it anymore.


----------



## thlnk3r

OSDCrusher, great job buddy. Thanks to Tator you were able to get something out of that puppy and here we thought you were stuck with only a 6Mhz OC


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


OSDCrusher, great job buddy. Thanks to Tator you were able to get something out of that puppy and here we thought you were stuck with only a 6Mhz OC










I try to keep a personal note of "Overclocking anything is possible, even for a 24/7 stable."

As I haven't really found anything I can't overclock, negate that my E6600/A64 3700+ didn't like to overclock. But I could pull an extra 100mhz out of each with enough voltage.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OSDCrusher*


I just got a stable overclock with my 185. It's now at 2.808 GHz with 1.475 volts. I'll keep trying to the CPU can't take it anymore.


 I actually had typed up about 10 minutes worth of suggestions in your help thread but I usually try to type so fast that some times I delete all that I have typed by accident and that time I just got upsest and did not feel like duplicating my efforts not to mention rethinking what I lost. I'm glad you got it going stable. As long as you understand how to keep your HT Link neer 1000MHz and your ram not much higher then 200MHz then you should be able to push the cpu pretty good. I am at about the same overclock my self on my opty 180 on my expert mobo. Keep pushing & learning.


----------



## OSDCrusher

I'm still not satisfied, I still want 3 GHz!!!







Once I hit 3 Ghz, I'm happy. If I can't hit 3 Ghz, I'll stop whenever I hit a wall.


----------



## OSDCrusher

Getting closer:
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=665268


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *OSDCrusher* 
Getting closer:
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=665268

Now just don't forget to watch your temperatures when your cpu is at 1.54V


----------



## OSDCrusher

I did it:
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=665349


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OSDCrusher*


I did it:
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=665349


 1.6v







good God Batman, hope H2O is in the future plans.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


1.6v







good God Batman, hope H2O is in the future plans.


As long as his ambient is low, 1.6v is just fine.


----------



## Hueristic

W0W u got more kahona's than me! 1.6







better keep the ac cranked.


----------



## OSDCrusher

Actually, CPU-Z doesn't read the voltage correctly. It always says 1.5-1.6 when it's really at 1.35.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
As long as his ambient is low, 1.6v is just fine.









Looks like your guy needs you.








http://www.overclock.net/amd-bios/56...sum-error.html

That didn't take long.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Looks like your guy needs you.








http://www.overclock.net/amd-bios/56...sum-error.html

That didn't take long.










Tator...AWAY!

By the way, I noticed you now can swing your sword! Shall we have a duel?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Tator...AWAY!

By the way, I noticed you now can swing your sword! Shall we have a duel?


















Do you SCA? If So I'd take a few Vikes and go for it!


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*









Do you SCA? If So I'd take a few Vikes and go for it!










The Society of Creative Anachronism? or The Society of Creative Anarchism?

Either way it's neither.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


The Society of Creative Anachronism? or The Society of Creative Anarchism?

Either way it's neither.


LOL, I've been a member of one and I'm sure an honorary member of the other.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


LOL, I've been a member of one and I'm sure an honorary member of the other.

















Hey hey, we all know the rules about this. We don't talk about it. That's rules 1 & 2.

For shame Hueristic... for shame...


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Hey hey, we all know the rules about this. We don't talk about it. That's rules 1 & 2.

For shame Hueristic... for shame...


Don't ask don't tell.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Tator...AWAY!

Tator, ahhhh. I answered him in his original thread with about the same response. Sorry about that









Hue, for some reason that avatar reminds me of Zelda...


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Tator, ahhhh. I answered him in his original thread with about the same response. Sorry about that









Hue, for some reason that avatar reminds me of Zelda...

LOL, sorry for what? Haha, don't worry about it, there will always be many paths to the same goal.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Uh oh. Game & Watch is throwing pet names out all over the place...

(Hue as Zelda







KLASSIK)

All your animated avatars make me wish my Destro was animated. It'd be awesome if we actually had audio in our avatars. Almost nothing gets me going as well as hearing Destro throw down his trademark Muhahahahahahaha


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
All your animated avatars make me wish my Destro was animated. It'd be awesome if we actually had audio in our avatars. Almost nothing gets me going as well as hearing Destro throw down his trademark Muhahahahahahaha

You could always do a YTMND of it if you have a recording/the DvDs.


----------



## Tator Tot

Sorry for the double post, but from us talking about Quantum Force/Foxconn yesterday, here's official news that Quantum Force is back


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OSDCrusher*


Actually, CPU-Z doesn't read the voltage correctly. It always says 1.5-1.6 when it's really at 1.35.


OK if you ever tried to use any type of overclocking software this could cause this type of situation where you set the bios to 1.35 but the software overrides the bios settings and runs it at the software settings of 1.6v. Also your mother board could also have a phenomenon well known as overvolting w/out you even trying to over volt. Which brings up my last well know tid bit of info. Most Enthusiast mobo bios's have a option known as CPU voltage override or some thing along those lines and if you set it to overvolt and forgot about it then that could cause the overvolting.

Seriously I would make sure your temperatures stay w/in acceptable levels w/in reason. 1.6 is up there. I know I would do that if it was a nice cool day or I was just shooting for a Hellmary or something like that. Personally I would not be comfortable running my cpu at 1.6v for every day use. Sure it might be stable now but if & when electromigration sets in you'll be kissing away one of the best known cpu's for socket 939.









Oh yeah I'll leave you on this note. Most of the times CPUZ and other software applications/tools will give you a general idea of the actual operating voltages.

Good Luck,

N2G

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Sorry for the double post, but from us talking about Quantum Force/Foxconn yesterday, here's official news that Quantum Force is back


 That's good news, thanks Tator. I just finished checking it out and some of the links are working but the bread and butter or raw meat of the sight is not functional just yet. Like if you click on OC Planet link from the main page it opens a new page but no options to join the forum and if you try to log in using a old account from before the sight was shut down it says member loggon error but the main Foxconn Forum linked from The main page is working just fine. I was able to look at my last post still w/no replies so I just bump'd it. We shall see what happens...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hey group, question time:

Has anyone here been able to install Windows 7 onto a S939 system yet?

Care to share your experiences?

I'll likely be doing that sometime in the next couple of weeks (I think ol' Game & Watch thlnk3rb377 will also do so), and I'll be sharing my views here. But I was wondering if anyone's done it and could possibly give us a heads up as far as possible pitfalls and gotchas that might lie in store.

Thanks, guys!


----------



## Blitz6804

I know Pioneerisloud used to have it running on a rig of his, but he has been out of communications as of late. DesertRat might know better the specifics than I. (I think further that DesertRat had his Manny running Win7 for a while.)


----------



## N2Gaming

If I can remeber correctly I ran it on the ASUS A8N32 SLI Deluxe I got from ebay a while back and I think it ran just fine. I still have to unzip and burn the iso files to be able to try it again w/the Win 7 RC... oh btw that mobo went back to the seller out of warranty w/manufacture defects. I may try it on The DFI Expert just for a Trial run. It's really hard though w/out wiping out the os installs that I have on my HDD's


----------



## OSDCrusher

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Hey group, question time:

Has anyone here been able to install Windows 7 onto a S939 system yet?

Care to share your experiences?

I'll likely be doing that sometime in the next couple of weeks (I think ol' Game & Watch thlnk3rb377 will also do so), and I'll be sharing my views here. But I was wondering if anyone's done it and could possibly give us a heads up as far as possible pitfalls and gotchas that might lie in store.

Thanks, guys!









I was thinking about it.


----------



## Jacka

Do any British 939ers have some cheap memory they'd be willing to sell me?









It's depressing and frustrating to have my memory running at 133MHz.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Hey group, question time:

Has anyone here been able to install Windows 7 onto a S939 system yet?

Care to share your experiences?

I'll likely be doing that sometime in the next couple of weeks (I think ol' Game & Watch thlnk3rb377 will also do so), and I'll be sharing my views here. But I was wondering if anyone's done it and could possibly give us a heads up as far as possible pitfalls and gotchas that might lie in store.

Thanks, guys!









My A8N32-SLi Deluxe was able to use Windows Vista & 7 32bit just fine.

I was unsure of 64bit drivers so I didn't mess with it.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Sorry for the double post, but from us talking about Quantum Force/Foxconn yesterday, here's official news that Quantum Force is back


LOL, I'll check that later. been busy but I did get hooked on a site while I was catching up on bios hacking.

so anyway I checked out that destroyer bios and I'm pretty unimpressed.

These are unselectable (*correct me if I'm wrong* you guys running these, I'm getting this from looking at the file)
System bios cache is disabled (hidden setting)
ACPI is enabled (hidden setting)
Onboard parallel address cannot be changed
Onboard parallel mode cannot be changed

Wow tons more, I just don't have the time right now and I don't own the board so meh.

If that's what these "Quantum force" *Cough experts are doing then I'll never get a board with their bios mods.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
been busy but I did get hooked on a site while I was catching up on bios hacking.

so anyway I checked out that destroyer bios and I'm pretty unimpressed.

These are unselectable (*correct me if I'm wrong* you guys running these, I'm getting this from looking at the file)
System bios cache is disabled (hidden setting)
ACPI is enabled (hidden setting)
Onboard parallel address cannot be changed
Onboard parallel mode cannot be changed

Wow tons more, I just don't have the time right now and I don't own the board so meh.

If that's what these "Quantum force" *Cough experts are doing then I'll never get a board with their bios mods.

Awe now don't be hating on foxconn just yet. I'm not just yet and I'd have to say that is quite observant of you just from looking at the bios file. However I would have to correct you on a few things so that you may hate for all the right reasons & not the wrong ones...









ACPI is adjustible from disabled to enabled and allowing the options of S1 & S3. There are some other features in the bios for ACPI but I am not familiar w/them... I always choose to run ACPI so that I can put my pc to sleep by the S3 Suspend to ram mode. This makes for quickboots from sleep at lightning spd's by the time the monitor is warmed up to display video the pc has resumed from where I left off w/all the open applications still right where I left them on the task bar. So I like to use ACPI... Always have and always will as long as I don't get compatibility issues.

Now the Paralell port is non adjustable as you have stated but for a very good reason. There is no paralell port on this mobo. USB ports replace that legacy port on this board.

Now if your a real Legacy die hard then there is an address adjustable serial port on board to pair up w/the 10 usb ports.

Last thing is the Bios cache. Hmm I can't really recall a need to use a bios cache when considering how much cache the new Ph II cpu's have. L1,L2 & L3 makes for a lot of system cache. The only reason I can think of why they would disable it is so that hackers can't fabricate a virus to crash the bios which brings up another cool featgure of this mobo. duel bios for crash free use if you should happen to some how corrupt a bios chip there is a back up chip that you can hot swop from w/in the bios settings screens or you can select the bios chip to post from w/a optional jumper on the main board. The last thing I'll mention about that is it's ability to select bios protect in the bios screen options to add the extra protection against bios virus's. I run the bios overwrite protection option so that my bios don't get overwritten by hackers and virus's.









It's not all that bad I'm just missing the NB multi. If and when I have that then I would really have no beef w/this mobo and would be quite content w/it.

Here is a pretty decent overclock that I was able to obtain on the Destroyer mobo w/one of my X2 5400+ BE cpu's


----------



## Hueristic

Eating will comment in a few N2, now I see why PP is set to SPP perm.


----------



## Tator Tot

I'd just like to say, we have over 18k replies in this thread.


----------



## Jacka

Longest thread on the forums?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jacka* 
Longest thread on the forums?

I think it's because there is still a lot of people who realize that 939's can still hold there own w/in reason.


----------



## Hueristic

N2, I know you love your foxconn but looking at this *award* bios has done nothing but give me disdain for the touted "Quantum team". I guess if you give some guys a cool name it'll sell.

My bad I said Acpi I meant APIC.
AFA Protecting you from a virus by disabling your performance features don't you think that goes against what we stand for in this forum?
If I remove write access to your harddrive then you'll be protected, should we do that?
And you have a backup bios as you stated so why would you be worried about a virus in your bios anyway?
I've never had a bios go bad. I always run bios caching. It's a huge performance increase.
If you don't believe me then do the benches yourself. Oh wait, you can't!








Sorry had to say that cause if you want I can unlock it for you.









Removing functionality is wrong, especially on a enthusiast product. I couldn't believe they did that. I don't have a problem with disabling it as default for the masses but that is a performance option and it should bother you that it is gone.
What would you say if you mem timings were not there?

Sorry but I call them as I see them. and that bios is fail.

@Tator about the added modules you mentioned, I cannot find any. Would you point them out to me please?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Here is a pretty decent overclock that I was able to obtain on the Destroyer mobo w/one of my X2 5400+ BE cpu's

N2Gaming, that is very impressive!

The Everest benchmarks are very nice as well. I noticed you're running a higher than normal HT link...just the way AM2's like it









Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Joe I just found this post regarding Win 7 on a 939 for you.

Thanks thlnk3r. I never knew they liked the HT to be higher then 1000. I Learn something new every day.

Hueristic. How would enabling system caching increse performance?

I don't have years of experience like you and a handfull of others that would know how bios caching is good for performance in addition to what features to look for when buying a new mobo. Well I know to look for a NB multi now for starters... As far as making the bios unprotected from a virus . Well I see it like this. If I get a virus and I have to reload my os after a low level format on top of reflashing my bios then that's just one more aggrivating step that I prefer to avoid and save me time getting her back up and purring. Not to mention if it's on it's last leg "back up bios " and the virus got to that chip as well then I'd be a sitting duck no make that a flaming duck. Aflac...







Just had to say that... The bios chips are not removable.

I'll have to look up what the other APIC thing you mentioned so that I understand what your talking about.


----------



## Blitz6804

My Brisbane liked 1250 MHz personally, as did my Toledo.


----------



## Hueristic

System memory is faster than bios so moving the bios to system memory (Hence cache) will speed up a system significantly as a system accesses bios frequently. Same vid offloading(cacheing) your vid bios. and if one of you bios's get corrupted you should just be able to flash the first one back to the second one and your all protected again.







It won't destroy the chip even in the very *very* slim chance you get one.

Bios virus's are like the terror alert level, go out and get your duct tape.


----------



## DesertRat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I know Pioneerisloud used to have it running on a rig of his, but he has been out of communications as of late. DesertRat might know better the specifics than I. (I think further that DesertRat had his Manny running Win7 for a while.)


Indeed I did. Ran pretty much flawlessly. Booted fast, ran fast, only bugs were w/ the OS, not compatibility.

OBTW: My manny is gone now







I sold it so I could afford my new sigrig. However I still am a s939 nostalgic. Best socket that ever was


----------



## N2Gaming

I always tried to keep the HT below 1100. I wonder it that was part of the performance issues I always had w/the am2 cpu's.

Hueristic this APIC thing. This is software language that helps the system manage the IRQ's no. If so I'm wondering if this is the reason why AtlasFolder could not get all 4x 9800GX2's to work in his Destroyer mobo???


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I always tried to keep the HT below 1100. I wonder it that was part of the performance issues I always had w/the am2 cpu's.

Hueristic this APIC thing. This is software language that helps the system manage the IRQ's no. If so I'm wondering if this is the reason why AtlasFolder could not get all 4x 9800GX2's to work in his Destroyer mobo???


Possible not sure, there are times when you need full control. These companies need to learn not ever customer is the same. I used to keep a system with a 20k+ card in it running that was attached to an electron microscope and that was all manual setup and will probably never be Plug and Pray.


----------



## N2Gaming

I just found this regarding bios caching.

Quote:



Computers with 32-bit operating systems like Windows XP do not use the 
system BIOS or the video BIOS at all after booting, except to run 16-bit 
programs. So BIOS caching will not affect performance one way or the other.


Source = last post in that link at the bottom of the page.


----------



## GuardianOdin

hey guys,

Which 939 Mobo are true SLi @ 16x16x?

My Expert is 16x-8x single and 8x-8x dual.

In the near future I am looking to add an SLi set up, but I want to run 16x 16x. Maybe prolong the 939 life while I fix my Jeep.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I just found this regarding bios caching. Source = last post in that link at the bottom of the page.


That's News to me N2. I'll look into it. Doesn't sound right as bios supersedes os.

On a completely different note!






















band:









Does anyone have pics of a 939 adapter and/or measurements so I can mount this on my opty?

:edit: N2, I don't believe that one guys post for a second. I doubt he even understands what a bios does. If you can find more credible links I'll check them out.


----------



## Jacka

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/thso939bofor.html
http://www.quietpcusa.com/Thermalrig...t-P374C51.aspx
http://www.jab-tech.com/Thermalright...t-pr-3829.html
http://www.heatsinkfactory.com/therm...t-p-16603.html
http://www.crazypc.com/products/939_...kit-50956.html
http://www.acousticpc.com/thermalrig..._thru_kit.html


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jacka*


http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/thso939bofor.html
http://www.quietpcusa.com/Thermalrig...t-P374C51.aspx
http://www.jab-tech.com/Thermalright...t-pr-3829.html
http://www.heatsinkfactory.com/therm...t-p-16603.html
http://www.crazypc.com/products/939_...kit-50956.html
http://www.acousticpc.com/thermalrig..._thru_kit.html


THX man! Those look easy enough to fab. Do you have the measurements?

+rep


----------



## Jacka

I can go and measure it for you now, give me about 10 minutes.


----------



## mattliston

AMD Athlon64 Brisbane 3200 @ 2.2 via clockgen

CPU-Z link http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=667982

am I in the club?


----------



## Jacka

All I can tell you without actually having the 939 bolt through kit is that the top part is approximately 45mm, and the height of the base of the heat sink is approximately 15mm.

Sorry I can't be more help.


----------



## Jacka

Matt, try lowering your RAM to DDR333 in the BIOS and see if you can go any higher.


----------



## mattliston

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jacka*


Matt, try lowering your RAM to DDR333 in the BIOS and see if you can go any higher.


Micro-Star retail board, no BIOS options. I havent been able to find a BIOS to flash so I have options either.

For those interested in helping me search, CPU-Z marks the board as model: MS-7184
chipset is ATI Xpress 200 (RS480) rev 10.
southbridge is ATI SB400

eMachine T6414

I can go a tiny bit higehr (2140) but my PCI is clocking over 38. at its current setting, its 36 point something

ive seen this CPU do 2.8 lol and Ive undervolted to 1.3 with this overclock and it is completely stable. idles at 25C, sometimes going lower when my A/C is on lol

EDIT all my OC settings go to default on rebooting FTL


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mattliston*


AMD Athlon64 Brisbane 3200 @ 2.2 via clockgen

CPU-Z link http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=667982

am I in the club?

















Sorry OC too low









J/K!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *mattliston*


Micro-Star retail board, no BIOS options. I havent been able to find a BIOS to flash so I have options either.

For those interested in helping me search, CPU-Z marks the board as model: MS-7184
chipset is ATI Xpress 200 (RS480) rev 10.
southbridge is ATI SB400

eMachine T6414

I can go a tiny bit higehr (2140) but my PCI is clocking over 38. at its current setting, its 36 point something

ive seen this CPU do 2.8 lol and Ive undervolted to 1.3 with this overclock and it is completely stable. idles at 25C, sometimes going lower when my A/C is on lol

EDIT all my OC settings go to default on rebooting FTL


Ewww, emachine. surprised you got anything out of it! Good job. I wouldn't even bother, just look for a replacement board. 939 boards have come way down lately then you can stroke that puppy.

@Jacka: thx the height was all I really needed I'll have a bracket and backplate whipped up before the HS gets here.


----------



## Blitz6804

Hueristic: Worse case, I will take more measurements and/or pictures of my bracket when I get home if you need them.

GuardianOdin: Abit AN8-32X, Asus A8N-32 SLI, and I believe there is also a Sapphire board, but I am not sure its model number.


----------



## mattliston

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Sorry OC too low









J/K!









Ewww, emachine. surprised you got anything out of it! Good job. I wouldn't even bother, just look for a replacement board. 939 boards have come way down lately then you can stroke that puppy.

@Jacka: thx the height was all I really needed I'll have a bracket and backplate whipped up before the HS gets here.



dude, the eMachine cases run super cool. My video card idles in teh 30's overclocked and teh cpu stays around 25C


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Hueristic: Worse case, I will take more measurements and/or pictures of my bracket when I get home if you need them.

GuardianOdin: Abit AN8-32X, Asus A8N-32 SLI, and I believe there is also a Sapphire board, but I am not sure its model number.


Thx man a pic of the mounted hs wouldn't hurt.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mattliston*


dude, the eMachine cases run super cool. My video card idles in teh 30's overclocked and teh cpu stays around 25C










Dude, I've never seen more mobo failures than emachines.









But I'm happy yours runs so well.


----------



## mattliston

2005 best buy black friday machine lol

I dont knwo why they have sucha bad rep. that was back i the day when they had boards in em.

this board has been great to me. the ONLY problem Ives had was 2 years ago it blacked out. switched the ram to the other side (4 slots, 2 used) and it booted.

onboard ATI graphics played NFS:most wanted okay, and OC'd 15% stable.

and its actually still fairly quick. but then I devote a few hours a week running cleaning and optimization softawre, so... lol

EDIT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


True I haven't seen any dead one's in a few years. Looks like a good candidate for you to learn bios unlocking on.










BIOS unlocking? that sounds cool, am I a google search away or is it a pretty involved process?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mattliston*


2005 best buy black friday machine lol

I dont knwo why they have sucha bad rep. that was back i the day when they had **** boards in em.

this board has been great to me. the ONLY problem Ives had was 2 years ago it blacked out. switched the ram to the other side (4 slots, 2 used) and it booted.

onboard ATI graphics played NFS:most wanted okay, and OC'd 15% stable.

and its actually still fairly quick. but then I devote a few hours a week running cleaning and optimization software, so... lol


True I haven't seen any dead one's in a few years. Looks like a good candidate for you to learn bios unlocking on.


----------



## mattliston

Quick question, is microstar even known to have a tweakable BIOS on any boards? I found 2 potential boards that appear (in pictures and specs) to match my system,

is it even worht the bother to flash the BIOS?

I dont have the money for anything right now, though If I find a tweakable 939 board for 20 bucks Im gonan snag it for sure


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mattliston* 
Quick question, is microstar even known to have a tweakable BIOS on any boards? I found 2 potential boards that appear (in pictures and specs) to match my system,

is it even worht the bother to flash the BIOS?

I dont have the money for anything right now, though If I find a tweakable 939 board for 20 bucks Im gonan snag it for sure

First you need to find out what bios your running, it should say ami, phoenix or most likely award on bootup or in the bios. If it doesn't then you can always just download the flash program and whichever flash it's for will tell you what the manufacturer is. And yes Before flashing to a bois you hack you should have a spare bios available.

But If you get a spare board then you can play with that one and learn a few things first.

After you get the bios flash util make a backup of your bios and send it to me and I'll let you know if I can unlock any features.

:Edit: Pretty funny we were just discussing this topic when you popped in.

*ALSO*: [email protected]@K guys I'm [email protected] "69"!!!! Need to keep this spot now! well 68 in 2.5 days 67 in 2.7, maybe I'll play with ppd to stay in this slot awhile!


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
send it to me and I'll let you know if I can unlock any features.

Hay Hueristic, what are you using to look/modify BIOS with?

I've got a program that I use, (not terribly happy with it though)


----------



## mattliston

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
First you need to find out what bios your running, it should say ami, phoenix or most likely award on bootup or in the bios. If it doesn't then you can always just download the flash program and whichever flash it's for will tell you what the manufacturer is. And yes Before flashing to a bois you hack you should have a spare bios available.

But If you get a spare board then you can play with that one and learn a few things first.

After you get the bios flash util make a backup of your bios and send it to me and I'll let you know if I can unlock any features.

:Edit: Pretty funny we were just discussing this topic when you popped in.

*ALSO*: [email protected]@K guys I'm [email protected] "69"!!!! Need to keep this spot now! well 68 in 2.5 days 67 in 2.7, maybe I'll play with ppd to stay in this slot awhile!









Its a phoenix BIOS. What is a good program to use to backup the BIOS? I dont have a floppy drive and I dont trust picking a random one off a google search lol

EDIT and I have failed several times at emulating a thumbdrive as a floppy


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mattliston*


Its a phoenix BIOS. What is a good program to use to backup the BIOS? I dont have a floppy drive and I dont trust picking a random one off a google search lol

EDIT and I have failed several times at emulating a thumbdrive as a floppy


Always use the flash program recommended by the manufacturer for that specific board. So download it from their site. In a pinch you can go around this but it is not good practice as some bios's will actually check the flash program version and some flash programs will corrupt bios.

Tator, I have tons from 20 years. Google will give you access to all except a few of them.


----------



## mattliston

MSI doesnt have a specific BIOS tool. they have whats called liveupdate, and its useless for retrieving/backing up information

I did find a phoenix specific one, but it required a floppy disc and drive, which I dont have

Im searching on google right now


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Tator, I have tons from 20 years. Google will give you access to all except a few of them.










Wanna PM me a list of some of the "good ones" I've been meaning to take a look around some of my boards, to see if I can get anything else out of them.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*









Wanna PM me a list of some of the "good ones" I've been meaning to take a look around some of my boards, to see if I can get anything else out of them.


Well, to put it bluntley, It is widely believed that the source can be found if you look hard enough.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hueristic, I'll shall do that in a while. I don't know why but I always thought it was best to disable caching on newer system. IDK I'll let you know if I find any more info.

GO here are a few. ABIT AN8 32X Asus A8N32 SLI Deluxe those are all that I can think of.


----------



## decimator

Hey, guys, I have a question...Does playing around with the PCIe frequency help with your overclock? I haven't touched it so far and I'm wondering if maybe this is the reason why I've hit a wall during my OC'ing. This thread got me thinking about it...


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 
Hey, guys, I have a question...Does playing around with the PCIe frequency help with your overclock? I haven't touched it so far and I'm wondering if maybe this is the reason why I've hit a wall during my OC'ing. This thread got me thinking about it...

I think you should keep it as close to 100 as possible, otherwise your flirting with disaster. But I don't know this for sure it's just what I've read.


----------



## Blitz6804

I hear that if you have a card that is dangerously close to bottlenecking the slot, a 3-5 MHz overclock could potentially help. For most systems, it will not make any appreciable difference. I do not know what harm will happen if you go too high, but I do know if your PCI frequency goes too high you can damage a LOT of possible different things.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mattliston*


AMD Athlon64 Brisbane 3200 @ 2.2 via clockgen

CPU-Z link http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=667982

am I in the club?

















Mattliston, welcome to the club buddy









I've added your entry to the roster.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Dude, I've never seen more mobo failures than emachines.


Hueristic, hey my VM Host is a Emachine haha. The board is from ECS (945gct-m3). Pretty solid so far. I flashed the proprietary bios with the latest from the ECS website. I received a few more options including overclocking options. Unfortunately the Vcore adjustment is not there. The E2180 runs pretty cool though...28-29C idle. Check my second system for more details. Still trying to find a Raid controller.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I hear that if you have a card that is dangerously close to bottlenecking the slot, a 3-5 MHz overclock could potentially help. For most systems, it will not make any appreciable difference. I do not know what harm will happen if you go too high, but I do know if your PCI frequency goes too high you can damage a LOT of possible different things.


Blitz, thanks for clarifying on this. The above statement is exactly what I have heard as well. I wouldn't go any further then 5Mhz overclock.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


I flashed the proprietary bios with the latest from the ECS website. I received a few more options including overclocking options. Unfortunately the Vcore adjustment is not there.


Good call.









And yeah what Blitz said on the PCI frequency sounds correct.


----------



## N2Gaming

Welcome to the club mattliston.


----------



## mattliston

Thanks guys. I registered on a few BIOS sites to help me find a proper utility. I almost downloaded and used 2 that my AVIRA found suspicious.

I sent an email off to MSI wondering what BIOS tool I can use for a backup, I simply told them I was planning to attempt an unlock of one of there OEM boards, which doesnt appear on there site.

Until then, do you guys have any reliable methods to force a thumbdrive to act as a floppy? I tried the HP utility method, and got it to work, but then in the middle of loading "windows" it froze up and I was forced to pull it out and restart to go back into windows


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mattliston*


Until then, do you guys have any reliable methods to force a thumbdrive to act as a floppy? I tried the HP utility method, and got it to work, but then in the middle of loading "windows" it froze up and I was forced to pull it out and restart to go back into windows


Mattliston, here are a few other ways of booting from a USB drive: http://www.bootdisk.com/pendrive.htm. I'm assuming the Compaq/HP method in the link was the one you already tried.

Let us know if that helps

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

I think my Enermax PSU is starting to show signs of degredation. I am on my Daly driver s939 SLI DR and all of a sudden the computer shuts off when I clicked on a x to close a browser button. So I tried to reboot into windows. The system would past post but when it was at the point of detecting the HDD and booting into windows it would restart the post cycle again. So I went into bios set it for optimum defaults and then trieds to boot again. Now all of a sudden NT loader is missing. Hmm so I swopped my bigger 74G raptor for the smaller 36G raptor my back up and same smell... Hmm so I pulled all the sata cables off and tried just one hdd. Same smell... At this point I'm thinking my mobo is defecting. First thing that went thru my mind. So I tried the 74g raptor in a different machine and it wanted to boot into windows on the first try. So I came back into my office room and put the 74G raptor back in my Daly driver and wham, this time it booted right up into windows. I think by unplugging all of the HDD's and letting the PSU cool off a bit allowed it to regenerate the power to power up the HDD. Does this sound about right to any one? I have not broke out the DMM yet because I got it running again but I think it may be that time to check it before it goes out and takes the whole system w/it what do you guys think?


----------



## thlnk3r

N2Gaming, did you say you "smelled" something? Put your nose up the rear of the power supply (exhaust fan) and see if it smells like burnt electronics. If it does then it more than likely is your PSU. Regardless if it's up and running now, I'd bust out the multimeter and check the rails. Better safe then sorry mate. If you have another PSU to test with I'd try that as well.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

I did not think of trying to smell it, now mind you my sniffer is not always working as it should so occasionally I can't smell small hints of burn and what have you. I'll give it a good sniff check.

EDIT: well it smells normal to me. Mind you I don't do anything extra special on this rig. maybe a few image edditings, checking email etc etc. I have not played games on this for a while since upgrading to my new systems.


----------



## mattliston

well I couldnt figure out anything form that. those methods are to get a "virtual" floppy drive. I need to ghost a floppy image and format my thumbdrive as such.

maybe I need to try the HP method again. I think I may have simply screwed it up.

Is there a floppy drive filelist? I do have access to win98SE disc and several xp hpome and pro images.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mattliston*


well I couldnt figure out anything form that. those methods are to get a "virtual" floppy drive. I need to ghost a floppy image and format my thumbdrive as such.

maybe I need to try the HP method again. I think I may have simply screwed it up.

Is there a floppy drive filelist? I do have access to win98SE disc and several xp hpome and pro images.


 are you trying to load a floppy driver via usb thumb drive or are you trying to boot into a program w/a usb thumb drive. if it's the latter you may need to select boot from removable first in your boot device priority list in the bios.

Good Luck,

N2G


----------



## mattliston

system boot

backup VGA BIOS and backup motherboard BIOS

my board allows booting from usb, but I cant load a program to check the BIOS on it. I dont know what files, and any program that creates a bootable disc is looking for a floppy


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mattliston*


system boot

backup VGA BIOS and backup motherboard BIOS

my board allows booting from usb, but I cant load a program to check the BIOS on it. I dont know what files, and any program that creates a bootable disc is looking for a floppy


Have you tried to format the usb drive w/the option of create ms dos start up disk. This should make the thumb drive bootable then put your bios applications on the drive. See if that works.


----------



## mattliston

FIGURED IT OUT!!!!! bootdisk link was great

Windows Enabler. DL'd it, ran it, turn it on, format menu for the thumbdrive, clicked the grayed out MSDOS boot setting, checked the box, now I have a floppy disk thumbdrive

:bows before OCN:

thanks guys


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mattliston*


my board allows booting from usb, but I cant load a program to check the BIOS on it. I dont know what files, and any program that creates a bootable disc is looking for a floppy


Mattliston, check out bootdisk.com for more reference









Whenever I need to flash my bios I just make a bootable Win98SE disk. I boot off of that floppy and then I insert the floppy that has the bios file(run the flashing .exe ect). For a USB drive I would imagine the same applies except the bios files can probably be all stored on one device.

Perhaps someone else here that has done this can shed some light.

Good luck


----------



## mattliston

must have posted exactly same time as me lol


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I think my Enermax PSU ... what do you guys think?










N2, It does sound like failing caps in your PS. If it's out of warranty then crack it open and look for bulging caps. a good method to discharge the ps before cracking it is too stick a fan on the molex connector and jump the start switch (Green to black).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Have you tried to format the usb drive w/the option of create ms dos start up disk. This should make the thumb drive bootable then put your bios applications on the drive. See if that works.


Exactley. +rep


----------



## mattliston

you cant format a usb thumbdrive with MSDOS instructions. I got around it and forced it with a program called windows enabler. also sets the capacity at 1.42mb intead of 3.73gb


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


N2, It does sound like failing caps in your PS. If it's out of warranty then crack it open and look for bulging caps. a good method to discharge the ps before cracking it is too stick a fan on the molex connector and jump the start switch (Green to black).

Exactley. +rep


I'll have to look at it real soon. I bought it back in 2005 and I think it prolly only has a 3 year warranty. So my chances are it is out of warranty. I could always try for RMA if it is defecting. I read a couple of bad reviews about Enermax a while back though so I don't know if I should RMA it. I mean if I can do it my self for close to or less then the cost of S/H for the RMA then I'd prolly be better off repairing the unit that was praised several years ago for being a very good 600W 80+ SLI Certified PSU. Thanks for the + and the info about chischarding the caps w/a molex fan. Very good info.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mattliston*


you cant format a usb thumbdrive with MSDOS instructions. I got around it and forced it with a program called windows enabler. also sets the capacity at 1.42mb intead of 3.73gb


Interesting. I'm not sure why I would want to do that if I can't use the space on the drive for all my bios files. 1.42 would get full really fast.


----------



## booby219

here is my htpc 
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=670024


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mattliston*


you cant format a usb thumbdrive with MSDOS instructions. I got around it and forced it with a program called windows enabler. also sets the capacity at 1.42mb intead of 3.73gb


Mattliston, here is a somewhat "cheap" alternative on Newegg. Here is some other suggestions to look up on Google.

Good luck


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


1.42 would get full really fast.


I'm confused now, Are you guys saying you cannot create a boot disk on usb from floppy creation? Who cares if it's only 1.44mb? you can always make another fat16 or 32 partition or just stretch the created one.

N2 go got PM.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *booby219*


here is my htpc 
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=670024


Booby291, welcome to the club









You've been added to the roster.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


I'm confused now, Are you guys saying you cannot create a boot disk on usb from floppy creation? Who cares if it's only 1.44mb? you can always make another fat16 or 32 partition or just stretch the created one.

N2 go got PM.


I never would have thought about stretching it. I guess I could try that w/the Partedmajic software that I use.









Edit: welcome to the club Booby291


----------



## mattliston

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Mattliston, here is a somewhat "cheap" alternative on Newegg. Here is some other suggestions to look up on Google.

Good luck


thanks for the links, but Id rather not have to spend any money to do this.


----------



## Hueristic

Floppy drives can be had free or super cheap, I have piles of them. Just ask around and someone will give you one or carry a screwdriver and walk down the street on garbage day and you'll find tons.


----------



## mattliston

hmm, I dont live in a strong residential area. O got a brewery on one side, a hospital on teh other, the river on one more, and more apartments on the last side

Lol


----------



## Hueristic

So you can alcohol poison yourself and stumble to the hospital! Great location! Just don't fall in the river!

I'll send you a few for shipping but it would cost more than checking local.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
*So you can alcohol poison yourself and stumble to the hospital! Great location! Just don't fall in the river!*

I'll send you a few for shipping but it would cost more than checking local.

LAWL! That's exactly the thought that ran thought my head after reading his post.









Matt, check around your local computer shops, hell they might even _give_ it to you.

EDIT: Hey guys do any of you have the code for the 939 sig link with the upside down writing and all that?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
EDIT: Hey guys do any of you have the code for the 939 sig link with the upside down writing and all that?


Code:



Code:


[CODE]
[URL="http://www.overclock.net/amd-general/293448-socket-939-appreciation-club-knowledgebase-official.html"]Â¡Â¡Â¡ʍʇɟ qn1ɔ uoıʇɐıɔǝɹddɐ 939 ʇǝʞɔos ǝɥʇ[/URL]

[/CODE]


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Code:


Code:


[CODE]
[URL="http://www.overclock.net/amd-general/293448-socket-939-appreciation-club-knowledgebase-official.html"]Â¡Â¡Â¡ʍʇɟ qn1ɔ uoıʇɐıɔǝɹddɐ 939 ʇǝʞɔos ǝɥʇ[/URL]

[/CODE]



TY sir.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
TY sir.









No problem.


----------



## mattliston

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


So you can alcohol poison yourself and stumble to the hospital! Great location! Just don't fall in the river!

I'll send you a few for shipping but it would cost more than checking local.


mmm before I ask for floppys, I need the BIOS program that will work lol

thanks anyways

I found nothing on phoenix's website

but my BIOS does say phoenix-award, I thought the awar buyout was recent????

so Im off to check the award website


----------



## judgementofgod

I'm relatively new here and thought this thread was a great idea. I built a new rig not too long ago and while doing so decided I might as well overhaul my 939 rig so I could set up a little LAN action, and for nostalgia purposes of course. I put in a new cpu, psu, gpu, ram, cpu cooler, another HDD. The rig details are posted in my profile. So here she is, please add me to the club:


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey user named I care not to say or type for fear of my religious beliefs, Good Job on your reincarnating your 939. Welcome to the club.


----------



## mattliston

lol


----------



## judgementofgod

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hey user named I care not to say or type for fear of my religious beliefs, Good Job on your reincarnating your 939. Welcome to the club.


It's done for the time being, but with this sweet mobo it would be a pity not to go SLI.


----------



## N2Gaming

Looks like you'll need some Nvidia sli cards for that.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *judgementofgod*


I'm relatively new here and thought this thread was a great idea. I built a new rig not too long ago and while doing so decided I might as well overhaul my 939 rig so I could set up a little LAN action, and for nostalgia purposes of course. I put in a new cpu, psu, gpu, ram, cpu cooler, another HDD. The rig details are posted in my profile. So here she is, please add me to the club:


Judgementofgod, welcome to the club









I've added you and your entry to the roster. Very nicely done on the overclock!


----------



## judgementofgod

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Looks like you'll need some Nvidia sli cards for that.

Yep, I've been looking for a good deal on a pair of matched cards.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Judgementofgod, welcome to the club









I've added you and your entry to the roster. Very nicely done on the overclock!

Thank you much.


----------



## BlackOmega

Welcome Judgementofgod.


----------



## TheSandman

well guys in 2 weeks ill be rocking on a faster Socket 939, for 90 bucks shipped im getting an X2 3800 and an MSI K8N Neo4-F that the seller ensures me will take the x2 to 2.7ghz stable guranteed


----------



## N2Gaming

good luck TheSandman.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TheSandman* 
well guys in 2 weeks ill be rocking on a faster Socket 939, for 90 bucks shipped im getting an X2 3800 and an MSI K8N Neo4-F that the seller ensures me will take the x2 to 2.7ghz stable guranteed

TheSandman, right on man. Sounds exciting









Keep us updated on your overclocks!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheSandman*


well guys in 2 weeks ill be rocking on a faster Socket 939, for 90 bucks shipped im getting an X2 3800 and an MSI K8N Neo4-F that the seller ensures me will take the x2 to 2.7ghz stable guranteed


 I can get my 3800x2 (manchester) to 2.7 with the appropriate amount of voltage.









All I gotta say is lap that sucker.


----------



## Blitz6804

Question for you all:

Do you think it better for me to allot $90 to get a megahalems (which will have 2x 38mm fans) or save until I have more like $160 for a bottom-line water cooling kit? The megahalems is clearly cheaper, and easier maintenance, but I would presume the WCK would be better performance and perhaps quieter. (In either case, I would be using the same 2x 38mm fans on a fan controller.)


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Question for you all:

Do you think it better for me to allot $90 to get a megahalems (which will have 2x 38mm fans) or save until I have more like $160 for a bottom-line water cooling kit? The megahalems is clearly cheaper, and easier maintenance, but I would presume the WCK would be better performance and perhaps quieter. (In either case, I would be using the same 2x 38mm fans on a fan controller.)


I personally think H2O would give you better performance and would be mostly transferable to any upgraded system.

Now the thing that you really have to consider is how brave are you and how much maintaining for the H2O loop you want to do. All H2O loops will require maintanance and of course H2O would make any system much heavier by about 7-15 lbs more then just a HSF solution depending on the size of your loop, number of blocks, Rad w/fans & Res.

Any time you have to remove hardware like your gpu if it is on the loop then you May need to bleed the lines before removing any GPU card(s). This alone can prove to be messy and time consuming but in the end would be worth it when considering perfomance vs. headaches of maintanance.

Your an overclocker so until you try H2O then you will always be wondering if it is for you. only you will truly know how you feel about it after trying it out. I say just take it for a spin, kick the tires, do a couple of burn outs "Hell Marys or suicides".

If you buy new then I would think you'll get a longer lasting loop because you will know it's history and you won't have to worry about corrosion as much being a problem from the start.

Now you know if you end up liking H2O then your gonna be hooked and will only wish you had bought better gear for your H2O loop. So starting out w/a entry level cheap loop may not be in your best interest but if your willing to test the waters on a cheaper loop then no one can blame you for that. Besides if you decide H2O is not for you then you don't have to cut as big a loss come time to liquidate your loop.







My


----------



## Hueristic

I gotta go with the Mega Blitz. Been looking on alot of reviews and it's on nice peice of gear. And should be usable for years on all current cpu's and more than likely most if not all cpu's.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


I gotta go with the Mega Blitz. Been looking on alot of reviews and it's on nice peice of gear. And should be usable for years on all current cpu's and more than likely most if not all cpu's.










 Do you mean this LOL


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Do you mean this LOL









I really don't see a reason to go water these days. the return is not worth the cost/upkeep. And the Mega does seem to be the top dog in the heat pipe area, performing as well as the tec hybrid models.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Question for you all:

Do you think it better for me to allot $90 to get a megahalems (which will have 2x 38mm fans) or save until I have more like $160 for a bottom-line water cooling kit? The megahalems is clearly cheaper, and easier maintenance, but I would presume the WCK would be better performance and perhaps quieter. (In either case, I would be using the same 2x 38mm fans on a fan controller.)


When it comes to water cooling, go cheap means go home. $160 will buy you what, exactly?

As far as getting the Megahalems goes, well, personally I don't see why you would need it, given your ambient temperatures. All that cost, with the fans running slowly, won't give you more than one or two degrees better (if that) than your current setup. You're probably at a point where the law of diminishing returns is firmly working hard against you because of your ambient temperatures. In my opinion, that $90-something is better spent on something else (or just save it for something more necessary, like food or something like that).

Back to water cooling: I'd argue that it makes sense for some people. If you had, say, the typical ambient temperatures I get during the summer (this summer has been weird), which gets to around 33 degrees C at night (so you can deduce it gets warmer in the daytime, when I'm at work and the PCs are off), I'd say water cooling makes better sense then. As far as care and maintenance of a H2O cooling system goes, well, if it's necessary, it's necessary. No complaints from me, if it gets the job done like it's supposed to.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


When it comes to water cooling, go cheap means go home. $160 will buy you what, exactly?

As far as getting the Megahalems goes, well, personally I don't see why you would need it, given your ambient temperatures. All that cost, with the fans running slowly, won't give you more than one or two degrees better (if that) than your current setup. You're probably at a point where the law of diminishing returns is firmly working hard against you because of your ambient temperatures. In my opinion, that $90-something is better spent on something else (or just save it for something more necessary, like food or something like that).

Back to water cooling: I'd argue that it makes sense for some people. If you had, say, the typical ambient temperatures I get during the summer (this summer has been weird), which gets to around 33 degrees C at night (so you can deduce it gets warmer in the daytime, when I'm at work and the PCs are off), I'd say water cooling makes better sense then. As far as care and maintenance of a H2O cooling system goes, well, if it's necessary, it's necessary. No complaints from me, if it gets the job done like it's supposed to.


----------



## decompiled

I spent 3 hours last night trying to figure out why my PC wouldn't boot. Removed all parts and reseated and finally it turned back on. Came home to a blank screen and random crashing during windows start up. Dunno if my overclock has finally kicked the bucket, but memtest goes berserk on the first few tests which i believe is L1 & L2 tests.

Might be time to upgrade this 939 rig.


----------



## mattliston

kill your memory ratio and drop your fsb


----------



## Blitz6804

N2Gaming, we mean the Prolimatech Megahalems.

Joe: Perhaps $160 was an understatement. I meant it as an entry level pump, 240mm rad, reservoir, and CPU block solely. My video cards are fine air cooled.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Your an overclocker so until you try H2O then you will always be wondering if it is for you. only you will truly know how you feel about it after trying it out. I say just take it for a spin, kick the tires, do a couple of burn outs "Hell Marys or suicides".

N2Gaming, point well made. Honestly only reason why I haven't gone H2O is because it's completely overkill for my stuff. I can imagine why Joe has it. He has ambients well over 30C. That's ridiculous LOL. I would die...

Blitz, sorry I can't recall your current idle/load temperatures and overclock. Can you clarify for us?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *decompiled* 
I spent 3 hours last night trying to figure out why my PC wouldn't boot. Removed all parts and reseated and finally it turned back on. Came home to a blank screen and random crashing during windows start up. Dunno if my overclock has finally kicked the bucket, but memtest goes berserk on the first few tests which i believe is L1 & L2 tests.

Decompiled, have you tried testing your machine while everything is at stock settings? Did you test each individual stick of memory? Is your signature correct with the "3GB" of memory?

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I am clocked as high as physically possible on 1.380 V. If I increase the voltage anymore, I would breach the 61Âº C thermal spec during stability testing, ergo, I am right now thermally capped.


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz, 61C is pretty high for 1.380volts. Either the Noctua is not sufficient (which I highly doubt) or the airflow in your case is not doing so well. There are Ph II 940 users overclocked with 1.45+ volts on stock cooling and not even reaching those full load temps. What kind of overclock do you have on the 940?

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

S&M at 1.380 V and 3.5 GHz is 57Âº C. Any faster really requires a bump in voltage to 1.410 V, which then causes me to breach 61Âº C in S&M.

Idle on 1.380 V is around 34Âº C without CnQ. I do not know 1.410 V, I never let it idle.

Maybe I just ask too much of it to do S&M without issue.


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz, what is the airflow like in your case? How is the cable management? Those temperatures just do not seem right....

Have you attempted to remount the cooler? Have you thought about lapping both surfaces? Have you tried removing one of your 4870X2's to see if that helps at all? Did you write down any of the info that is on your IHS (other than the stepping)?

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I have a scan of my entire IHS on my computer, first thing I do with a new CPU. It reads:

HDZ940xcJ4DGI
CACVC AC 0852APCW

Temperatures from one HD 4870x2 to two HD 4870x2s are identical. There is a side case fan blowing directly onto the Noctua NH-C12P's fan, so airflow should not be an issue. The cooler has been remounted a few times, and its present mount is shimmed with a few #10 washers for a tighter fit and lower temperatures as compared to out of the box. I bought a lapping kit for the heatsink, but I do not know where I put it. I never intend to lap my heat spreader.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

My question is why make a quad go faster than whatever speed you've got it going already..? The question is anathema perhaps to OCN's stated principles and raison d'etre, but that's the question I'm asking myself.

But of course, I have to state up front that benchmarking is the most useless thing I can think of when it comes to performance computing. But that's just me talking...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I have a scan of my entire IHS on my computer, first thing I do with a new CPU. It reads:

HDZ940xcJ4DGI
CACVC AC 0852APCW


Blitz, what is the last line of numbers? (ie. http://pctuning.tyden.cz/ilustrace3/...2_x2_550_2.jpg) Fourth line









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Temperatures from one HD 4870x2 to two HD 4870x2s are identical. There is a side case fan blowing directly onto the Noctua NH-C12P's fan, so airflow should not be an issue. The cooler has been remounted a few times, and its present mount is shimmed with a few #10 washers for a tighter fit and lower temperatures as compared to out of the box. I bought a lapping kit for the heatsink, but I do not know where I put it. I never intend to lap my heat spreader.


Blitz, do you have a lower end video card that you could throw in and test with? I'm just wondering if your 4870X2's are producing too much heat and your case is having troubles exhausting the warm air. In regards to your cable management do you have any pictures to share with us?

I guess it's time to start thinking about lapping both surfaces









Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I might just try removing the primary card and seeing if I can run the secondary card; the RAM sinks of my primary card exhaust right below the CPU cooler. My cable management is better than my usual, but it is still pretty abysmal. I never really had a need for my serial number, so I actually have that blocked out on the picture I keep on both my PCs, might still be on the raw scan on my desktop. I will not be able to try that until I get home, sometime early next week. (I hate visiting here; I am stuck on my laptop and always have to stay longer than intended. Oh, and its warm in here, but nothing like Joe's personal inferno.)

Joe: Not doing it for the benchmarks. I am really doing it for that darned infernal Crysis. With my hardware, it should not have the problems it does running. I will some day get to play this darned thing. (Furthermore, the faster I can get it, the less likely I am to need an upgrade in future.)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

How can your machine not play Crysis?

I know you're running at some ridiculously high resolution (that's part of the problem), but you are one of those people (with whom I AGREE) who say Crysis is flawed because it runs better with nVidia cards.

The possible solutions are painfully obvious to me...


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz, try giving your cable management a shot to see if that helps out temperatures. I'd give up on the warranty and lap your processor. You should see some nice gains with doing that.

From what I understand the fourth line of digits on the IHS (last set) will usually tell you were the die was at on the wafer. It seems like the lower numbers have a higher overclocking potential. So for the link I posted above 90016 is better then 90383. Lower the number, closer to the inside of the wafer it was.

I think it's time to give up on Crysis. Wasn't the game just poorly coded? I don't think there's anything out there that will max out the graphic settings....

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
N2Gaming, we mean the Prolimatech Megahalems

OK ok I won't be silly and joke about hardware any more.


----------



## thlnk3r

Guys, attached images show my finished overclock with my Opteron 146 and GSkill set. Not hugely impressive but it's better than stock









Gotta love the full load temperature on a single-core processor hahah


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Guys, attached images show my finished overclock with my Opteron 146 and GSkill set. Not hugely impressive but it's better than stock









Gotta love the full load temperature on a single-core processor hahah


----------



## Hueristic

That looks great to me thlnk3r for a 217 mem bus!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
That looks great to me thlnk3r for a 217 mem bus!

Hueristic, thanks buddy. I could of settled for 2.7Ghz but my memory would have been around 192Mhz. I think the 100Mhz sacrifice was worth it


----------



## Blitz6804

txtmstrjoe: Yep, a C2Q with 3x nVidia GTX 285 will get over 120 FPS Ultra High Spec, 16x QXAA, 1680x1050 as far as I remember. My rig cannot do 16x QXAA at all, but 16x FSAA with Ultra High Spec with 1680x1050 will get upwards of 33 FPS if I remember right.

Thlnk3r: I did not know that; I will look when I get home.


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz, I believe you can run a lower resolution and be able to play with higher AA and AF. Is there a reason why you're wanting to play with such high settings?


----------



## Blitz6804

At High settings, 1920x1200, 0xAA, DX 9, 32-bit, I get around 55 FPS at best.

This is with a 3.5 GHz AMD Quad Core, 2x HD 4870x2 (stock clocked). It is usually playable, but when stuff starts flying...


----------



## Hueristic

Does CryFail even take advantage of quadcore?


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz, give a lower resolution a shot and see if it's smoother. I'd go with whatever is most playable. Play the game and try to enjoy it


----------



## Blitz6804

My computer gets the same FPS at 1920x1200 high spec as it does 800x600 low spec. There is something radically wrong with the way the game is coded for AMD/ATi platforms. Using nVidia and/or Intel your frame rate increases substantially.

Next time I come down, I should try it on my dad's rig; I am willing to bet it will blow mine out of the water. (3.0 GHz C2D 1333 MHz FSB, 2x 8800 GT 512)


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Does CryFail even take advantage of quadcore?


Nope, it's pretty single threaded, you get almost the same performance from a Wolfdale (E8xxx) based Single core (not that one exists, but you can force it that way) as you would a Yorkfield based Quad core (Q9x50's)

For that matter, running Crysis on a 64bit system is also just about as bad. Huge memory leaks, and worse performance sometimes.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


My computer gets the same FPS at 1920x1200 high spec as it does 800x600 low spec. There is something radically wrong with the way the game is coded for AMD/ATi platforms. Using nVidia and/or Intel your frame rate increases substantially.

Next time I come down, I should try it on my dad's rig; I am willing to bet it will blow mine out of the water. (3.0 GHz C2D 1333 MHz FSB, 2x 8800 GT 512)


It'll die in DX10 mode, your setup won't.


----------



## Blitz6804

The game is unplayable on my rig in DX10 mode. It is usually playable in DX9 mode. (I guess his would be a DX10 slideshow?) 32-bit versus 64-bit is a difference of 1-2 FPS in 32-bit's favor. This might be why Warhead dropped 64-bit support.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


The game is unplayable on my rig in DX10 mode. It is usually playable in DX9 mode. (I guess his would be a DX10 slideshow?) 32-bit versus 64-bit is a difference of 1-2 FPS in 32-bit's favor. This might be why Warhead dropped 64-bit support.


Beyond a range of compatibility issues on their part, yeah that is why they droped 64bit in Warhead.

And yeah, 2 x 9800GT's would be a slide show in DX10.

You'll have moments of 15-20FPS but you are still clipping along. More so because they probably are only 512mb while you have 1GB of VRAM.


----------



## Blitz6804

As to my comment of playability, in DX10, the microstutter is far more crippling than it is in DX9. Average frame rate between the two is not substantially dissimilar.


----------



## BlackOmega

Blitz, I personally would think that a Megahalems would be the better choice. 
But like Joe said with your ambient temps, the benefit with water cooling wouldn't be substantial enough to offset the time and cost. I don't think it would be any quieter than running air cooling.

In regards to Crysis, I'm starting to think that it has more to do with your OS than your hardware. 
Using XP, I average 29.5 FPS. Thats @ 1680x1050, High, 16xQSAA, 16xAF. Mind you, I only see a 2 FPS increase with AA @ 0x. So for you, with your hardware, to get unplayable framerates with AA on makes think that there is something else going on.

Out of curiosity, what are your 3D settings set to in CCC?


----------



## Blitz6804

All are set to "Application preference." What is interesting is that the framerate is the same almost irrelevant of settings. (I can make frame rates start to decrease by increasing AA above 2x at my native WUXGA.) Crysis is the only game to exhibit this strange phenomenon. It is almost as if there is a hard-coded frame rate in Crysis regardless of what I do. The problem that plagues it most often is the microstutter. To avoid microstutter, you must get your average framerate higher. Going from one to two HD 4870x2s solved microstutter in Gears of War, HAWX Dx10, and other programs that I have not really played much.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


All are set to "Application preference." What is interesting is that the framerate is the same almost irrelevant of settings. (I can make frame rates start to decrease by increasing AA above 2x at my native WUXGA.) Crysis is the only game to exhibit this strange phenomenon. It is almost as if there is a hard-coded frame rate in Crysis regardless of what I do. The problem that plagues it most often is the microstutter. To avoid microstutter, you must get your average framerate higher. Going from one to two HD 4870x2s solved microstutter in Gears of War, HAWX Dx10, and other programs that I have not really played much.


 So do you think Nvidia cards cope w/the game better. Maybe Intel chips would make even that much more of a difference. IDK but I have issues w/crysys as well.

On a lighter note. I'm prime stable for a half hour now with my Ram at DDR812 4.4.4.12.1T and cpu at 3250MHz. My Everest benchies are really good to for what I have. I know it's not a 939 system but that is the only thing I have been doing today besides trying mod'd bios's, applying for jobs and taking drugie test's. NO I'm not a druggie but These job placement companies pre-screen for drugs prior to sending any one out to there clients.









With any luck I will be employed again soon. I would rather be retrained to be certified in A+ and NTSC or something along those lines. I know NTSC is old school but some type of IT Tech stuff is what I like.

Any way Not many post's here lately...


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


...In regards to Crysis, I'm starting to think that it has more to do with your OS than your hardware. 
Using XP, I average 29.5 FPS. Thats @ 1680x1050, High, 16xQSAA, 16xAF. Mind you, I only see a 2 FPS increase with AA @ 0x. So for you, with your hardware, to get unplayable framerates with AA on makes think that there is something else going on. ...












Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


All are set to "Application preference." What is interesting is that the framerate is the same almost irrelevant of settings. (I can make frame rates start to decrease by increasing AA above 2x at my native WUXGA.) Crysis is the only game to exhibit this strange phenomenon. It is almost as if there is a hard-coded frame rate in Crysis regardless of what I do. The problem that plagues it most often is the microstutter. To avoid microstutter, you must get your average framerate higher. Going from one to two HD 4870x2s solved microstutter in Gears of War, HAWX Dx10, and other programs that I have not really played much.


I can't hurt to try a xp32 install for a multi-boot and give it a try. I know you can be thick headed.







We all can but I agree with BO.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


...










Very nice timeing but your cheating! *939*


----------



## Blitz6804

I've got XP x64 and Win7 x64 installed. I will need to give both a shot when I get home to see if there is a difference.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I've got XP x64 and Win7 x64 installed. I will need to give both a shot when I get home to see if there is a difference.


This thread and this post in particular will prove that 32bit>64bit in Cryfail.


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, as I said, I run the x86 executable because it runs smoother.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Well, as I said, I run the x86 executable because it runs smoother.


Yes but try it on an OS with less overhead. That may cure your micro stutter.

Heck If I wanted a game to run better I'd run the oldest OS that runs that directx version.

Speaking of which will win2000 run directx9c? NT4.0?

That would make for some interesting comparisons. LOL

I bet 90% of all the gamers here would be dual booting if it has a 5fps effect. LOL


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I'm prime stable for a half hour now with my Ram at DDR812 4.4.4.12.1T and cpu at 3250MHz. My Everest benchies are really good to for what I have.


N2Gaming, is this the 5000+ X2 that you are playing with? Nice memory reads in Everest.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Yes but try it on an OS with less overhead. That may cure your micro stutter.


Hue, good call. I'd like to see the results of this. If this is the only game that actually produces "micro-stutters" for Blitz then obviously it's the game. Either lower some of the video settings and enjoy the game or just uninstall it









Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, is this the 5000+ X2 that you are playing with? Nice memory reads in Everest.


 Thanks, actually it is one of 2 x2 5400+ BE cpu's that I have.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thanks, actually it is one of 2 x2 5400+ BE cpu's that I have.


N2Gaming, definitely a great looking overlock you have there. I remember when 3.2Ghz was "amazing" on these chips. Now the Phenom II processors can hit 3.8Ghz with very little voltage


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Guys, to me it's real simple: We all know that Crysis is optimized for nVidia hardware. That's a pretty well-established observation we can all take it as fact, as far as I'm concerned. Therefore, if we have any sort of expectation of being able to play this particular game to anything close to perfection at ultra-high settings, you have to have an nVidia setup.

Expecting anything different whilst running ATi hardware practically exemplifies the legal definition of insanity, in my opinion.

There are ways around this, such as lowering your eye candy settings and/or resolution if you want to improve your FPS, regardless of your OS. But to not accept this is, well, just simply insane, in my opinion.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Hue, good call. I'd like to see the results of this. If this is the only game that actually produces "micro-stutters" for Blitz then obviously it's the game. Either lower some of the video settings and enjoy the game or just uninstall it









Good luck

The only reason to install Crysis is to use the Crybench tool to judge your FPS.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Guys, to me it's real simple: We all know that Crysis is optimized for nVidia hardware. That's a pretty well-established observation we can all take it as fact, as far as I'm concerned. Therefore, if we have any sort of expectation of being able to play this particular game to anything close to perfection at ultra-high settings, you have to have an nVidia setup.

Expecting anything different whilst running ATi hardware practically exemplifies the legal definition of insanity, in my opinion.

There are ways around this, such as lowering your eye candy settings and/or resolution if you want to improve your FPS, regardless of your OS. But to not accept this is, well, just simply insane, in my opinion.

It's not entirely possible to get a Dragon System to beat out an Intel (Q9x50 @ same clocks) with a comparable nVidia GPU (GTX275 vs HD4890)

The only problem with this is that people aren't not willing to take on such a task, but half the time you need to look into custom config files that alter the way the game runs, and how things load.

It's basically what I like to call UT2k4 syndrom. Which was optimized for all Systems, and depending on your configuration, would change it's load logo's and alter it's own configs on the fly to actually optimize itself for your system.

If you ran Intel P4 and an ATi card it would show "Powered by Intel" "Graphics by ATi"

But on the flipside, if you had an AMD & nVidia system it would say "AMD Engineering" and "nVidia - The Way it's meant to be played."


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Guys, to me it's real simple: We all know that Crysis is optimized for nVidia hardware. That's a pretty well-established observation we can all take it as fact, as far as I'm concerned. Therefore, if we have any sort of expectation of being able to play this particular game to anything close to perfection at ultra-high settings, you have to have an nVidia setup.

Expecting anything different whilst running ATi hardware practically exemplifies the legal definition of insanity, in my opinion.

There are ways around this, such as lowering your eye candy settings and/or resolution if you want to improve your FPS, regardless of your OS. But to not accept this is, well, just simply insane, in my opinion.










I'm not sure about that Joe. I think Crysis is a beautiful game made rather poorly. I was trying to help a guy out that had an i7 & 2 GTX 295's. And needless to say, even with that monster of a rig, it didn't do much better than Blitz's rig other than the AA setting.

And like Tator said, you probably have to modify it yourself to run it at the settings you'd like to see it at.

Joe, I see you're running the CFX...... hows that been going for you?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*










I'm not sure about that Joe. I think Crysis is a beautiful game made rather poorly. I was trying to help a guy out that had an i7 & 2 GTX 295's. And needless to say, even with that monster of a rig, it didn't do much better than Blitz's rig other than the AA setting.

And like Tator said, you probably have to modify it yourself to run it at the settings you'd like to see it at.


Well, Omega Supreme, that only strengthens my point. As you say, "Crysis is a beautiful game made rather poorly." With this being the case, why should we ever expect halfway decent performance from it if not even monstrously powerful machines (apparently, not even top-tier Intel + nVidia hardware can get this running properly, at expected performance levels) can't do it? In other words, the problem is in the expectations of performance. That's purely at the end-user's side of things.

That's also why I say that one solution is to lower the settings to have a satisfying gaming experience.

But then, Tator's thoughts about Crysis not being so much a game as it is a means to access a specific benchmark makes Crysis even more illogical. But then again, that's just extreme allergic reaction to benchmarking talking...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Joe, I see you're running the CFX...... hows that been going for you?


I've only brought the machine out of mothballs at this point. I've got a battle plan for this thing that I've yet to execute. It's still at stock speed at the moment.

If thlnk3r and I were to have our mano-a-mano OC duel, this would have been my challenger. Alas, he's done OCing his machine; give me a couple of weeks, maybe a month or so, and I'll get this lady OCing.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


If thlnk3r and I were to have our mano-a-mano OC duel, this would have been my challenger. Alas, he's done OCing his machine; give me a couple of weeks, maybe a month or so, and I'll get this lady OCing.


Txtmstrjoe, my competitors are weak and not willing to go very far. I think you would have had me easy if this really went down haha


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Txtmstrjoe, my competitors are weak and not willing to go very far. I think you would have had me easy if this really went down haha


Dunno about that, Game & Watch. This motherboard is cursed, after all.


----------



## Blitz6804

thlnk3r: The microstutter is evident whenever the FPS of any game is near the refresh rate of the monitor. Gears of War and HAWX (in Dx10 mode) both ran around 70 FPS with a single HD 4870x2. The microstutter crippled both games. With two HD 4870x2s, the FPS of both were near around 100, and the microstutter is no longer noticeable. Even with two HD 4870x2s, the microstutter still affects Crysis.

Joe: I am not trying to play it on high settings. As I said, 800x600, low spec still only gets in the high 50s. What is interesting is that I can increase resolution to 1920x1200, increase AA to 2x, and turn the graphics up to High and still get the exact same frame rate. An overclock from 3.00 GHz to 3.50 GHz got me into the 50s. With my CPU at stock, I was in the mid 40s. This is why I think if I can get my CPU a fuzz higher, I might be able to get it a little better.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


thlnk3r: The microstutter is evident whenever the FPS of any game is near the refresh rate of the monitor. Gears of War and HAWX (in Dx10 mode) both ran around 70 FPS with a single HD 4870x2. The microstutter crippled both games. With two HD 4870x2s, the FPS of both were near around 100, and the microstutter is no longer noticeable. Even with two HD 4870x2s, the microstutter still affects Crysis.


Blitz, turn off all AA and AF and run the game in DX9C mode and see if the "micro-stutters" still persist. I don't see how every game can exhibit these issues. Maybe you're asking too much from your hardware? What other games have you tested in DX9C mode?

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

blitz where are your HT and NB frequencies w/the 3.5GHz overclock? I'm wondering if it could be a mobo/bios limitation to obtain a successfull overclock to run the game w/what your expecting it to do...







Just a thought...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

If Crysis were that problematic, and if it's unplayable, I'd just give up on it.

Considering where you already are speed-wise with your CPU, a couple hundred MHz (if you can manage to squeeze that out of your chip, which I doubt, to be perfectly honest) will not make a substantial difference.


----------



## N2Gaming

Perhaps a phone call the the Crysis tech support team can help resolve an underlying issue that you might not be aware of.


----------



## Blitz6804

thlnk3r: Yep. Microstutters are visable with multicard platforms whenever the FPS is near or below the refresh rate. DX9 32-bit is less affected than DX10 64-bit. No other game has this problem since getting the second HD 4870x2 as my FPS is often near 100 in all games but Crysis.

N2Gaming: NB = 2160 MHz, HT = 1890 MHz.

txtmstrjoe: There was a massive difference from 3000 MHz to 3450 MHz. Even from 3450 MHz to 3510 MHz I got a difference. I can get my CPU to run faster, and it is stable in S&M and Prime95. (Once I get to the FPU test however, it gets too warm for my tastes.) Given the patience and cooling, I am sure I can get at least 3640 MHz, which is another 10 MHz on my HTT. My current clocks come in at 57Âº C in S&M's FPU test, and a scant 46Âº C while doing my typical load of [email protected] SMP or Call of Duty 4.

All: I think this is why so many people recommend getting the CCC mod for Crysis.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


DX9 32-bit is less affected than DX10 64-bit.


Blitz, maybe you should run a 32-bit OS in DX9 mode then. Other than that I don't know what else to tell you. You still have plenty of room to grow with your processor. Hopefully the temperatures improve after you lap both surfaces and clean up the cable management.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

blitz I remeber you mentioned you thought your computer seemed slower at they keyboard level lately after using the software to control your P States. Maybe you are experiencing problems w/that application and your cpu clocks. Have you tried a higher HT for Performance to see if it makes a difference in Crysis? Oh yeah does ganged and unganged make any noticable differnce in crysis?


----------



## Blitz6804

I have not tried ganged/unganged. If I lock it into the P0 state, the effect you mention does not exist anymore. The lag is common with all user defined or factory CnQ configurations to varying degrees. As you would expect, I lock my CPU and GPU to be their maximum clocks / fans prior to gaming. (ATi cards factory downclock when not in use.)


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I have not tried ganged/unganged. If I lock it into the P0 state, the effect you mention does not exist anymore. The lag is common with all user defined or factory CnQ configurations to varying degrees. As you would expect, I lock my CPU and GPU to be their maximum clocks / fans prior to gaming. (ATi cards factory downclock when not in use.)










then you have nothing to loose by trying unganged vs ganged. At least you'll know it's not that and if it is woo hoo, but I'm not holding my breath. Crysis should have been called Cry-sisy cause it bends computers over backwards.


----------



## Hueristic

I forgot to put the link in earlier.









Here's the thread.

These guys are getting higher frame-rates running 32bit and one guy has insane frame-rates on xp32.

I have no clue what's going on but it looks like ATI is ruling Nvidia in this thread.

Jump in and post some benchies Blitz.

I think the first 3 or 4 pages are just making sure the guy isn't trolling as he had a few questionable threads the last few days, so jump past that.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*









then you have nothing to loose by trying unganged vs ganged. At least you'll know it's not that and if it is woo hoo, but I'm not holding my breath. Crysis should have been called Cry-sisy cause it bends computers over backwards.










It only does so horrible on computers because of poor coding and execution of it's code.

This is why Custom configs boost performance so much, people with even 10 chimes worth of know how took a look at Crysis's execution methods and said "Wait a tic? Why are you doing it that way."

I'd love to link some of these places, but most of them would be against OCN's ToS.

But I can just say that it was some pretty epic rage, whole pages filled with cut & paste versions of the code, and explinations why implimenting the code in such a fashion was a horribly and almost unprofesional way of doing things, and that if such a team was actually paid to produce this coding in any form of a compitent company (aka Valve, Sony, Microsoft, ID, or Nintendo) they would most likely have been fired for such a horrible mistake.

Stock Crysis doesn't even experience linear improvement in added VRAM like other games do.

If you play Left 4 Dead or Team Fortress 2 with uncompressed textures on a higher than 1600x1200 resolution, then added VRAM will have almost a 100% linear line of performance gains. While in Crysis, added VRAM to uncompressed textures on a high resolution adds a sub 50% improvement to performance. Though, you change a few things in how Crysis works, and bam, you are instantly moving at a faster rate.

The whole game is such a waste as far as what is offered and the lack of work put into it.

I wouldn't have dogged on them if this was the first game they made. But it was not, infact, the first game with the first Crytek engine had better coding than the Crytek 2 engine, and Crysis.


----------



## Blitz6804

My other complaint is the hard-coded right mouse button. I am used to holding the right mouse button to scope the weapon, releasing to return to normal. Crysis is click on / click off. Other games that default to that (Call of Duty 4: Modern Warfare) permit you to change to the other, older system.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


My other complaint is the hard-coded right mouse button. I am used to holding the right mouse button to scope the weapon, releasing to return to normal. Crysis is click on / click off. Other games that default to that (Call of Duty 4: Modern Warfare) permit you to change to the other, older system.


OMG that is the dumbest thing I've heard in years!









I refused to play many games because they wouldn't let me remap to my doom defaults!


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


OMG that is the dumbest thing I've heard in years!









I refused to play many games because they wouldn't let me remap to my doom defaults!


Haha, I'm sorry, but I can't go back to the arrow keys, that's to cramped. WSAD 4 Life.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Haha, I'm sorry, but I can't go back to the arrow keys, that's to cramped. WSAD 4 Life.


Tator, nice man. My brother used WSAD all the time, I preferred QSDX


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator, nice man. My brother used WSAD all the time, I preferred QSDX










You're crayzeh!!









I'm all WASD lol


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Tator, nice man. My brother used WSAD all the time, I preferred QSDX









Ugh...I think my fingers just cried out in agony over that configuration.

Though, I do remember loading up some of the original FPS's and being like "this doesn't seem like a good way to play" and then my brother going "Try this!" and switching me to WSAD, I never looked back after that, it feels so natural for me.

Probably because I learned to type at a young age. So having my one hand on essentially the home row was very easy for me.


----------



## Blitz6804

I have used something similar to QSDX... it is actually not bad. (In my case, it was QACV... ring finger does forward/back, the thumb does left/right.) I do not remember WHY I did this, but I just did.

Hue: Ever try the Quake controls? If I remember right, right mouse button there is forward.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hmm... I think this is why I have a strong preference and love for racing sims.

Ain't nothing more simple than "turn wheel right, you turn right; turn wheel left, you turn left; right pedal makes you go faster, left pedal makes you go slower (or middle pedal, with three pedal set-ups)," plus the gearchange mechanism of your preference.

The only fly in the ointment is when you have Blitzy and pioneerdoesdonuts conspiring against you and purposely doing kamikaze attacks on your racing car...


----------



## GuardianOdin

Hey Joe!

Installing the new Opty 170 tonight. Yay! for 10 multiplier


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Hey Joe!

Installing the new Opty 170 tonight. Yay! for 10 multiplier









G.O. (Fezzik!), please share your new baby's OCing journeys here.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
G.O. (Fezzik!), please share your new baby's OCing journeys here.









I certainly will!

This is a good time to clean the Mobo and case as well. A bit dusty since I last had it apart.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Hue: Ever try the Quake controls? If I remember right, right mouse button there is forward.

I seem to remember Quake having some stupid defaults but at least you could remap them! Not having remapping is the absolute dumbest move any game creator can do, bar none.

I returned C&C because I could not change the mouse clicks to my starcraft/warcraft settings. I returned DuesX (I think that's what it was) and a few other games because of this and got into a few arguments with managers over it but always prevailed.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
The only fly in the ointment is when you have Blitzy and pioneerdoesdonuts conspiring against you and purposely doing kamikaze attacks on your racing car...







































Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Hey Joe!

Installing the new Opty 170 tonight. Yay! for 10 multiplier









10x :jealous:

:Applaud:


----------



## Blitz6804

Crysis you can remap its location, but not its function. (You may not turn the toggle into a hold.)


----------



## N2Gaming

I gotta agree with tator on qasx. My fingers on my left hand can't handle that type of constant cramping of my middle finger. I use wasd but w/my pinky finger hangin over the caps lock do my middle finger is use to going up to w instead of down to x.


----------



## thlnk3r

Speaking of old games (Quake), did anyone here ever play Shadow Warrior or Hexen?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Speaking of old games (Quake), did anyone here ever play Shadow Warrior or Hexen?


Nope the oldest game that I played and enjoyed was Delta Force. " Hmmm, It's hard work being this gooooood " LOL


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Speaking of old games (Quake), did anyone here ever play Shadow Warrior or Hexen?


I have, but that's just because I was lucky enough to be brought every good FPS game back in 01, and kinda worked from there.


----------



## mattliston

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Speaking of old games (Quake), did anyone here ever play Shadow Warrior or Hexen?


Hexen was a classoc favorite, and teh oldest game that I beat without cheating


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Well, Omega Supreme, that only strengthens my point. As you say, "Crysis is a beautiful game made rather poorly." With this being the case, why should we ever expect halfway decent performance from it if not even monstrously powerful machines (apparently, not even top-tier Intel + nVidia hardware can get this running properly, at expected performance levels) can't do it? In other words, the problem is in the expectations of performance. That's purely at the end-user's side of things.

That's also why I say that one solution is to lower the settings to have a satisfying gaming experience.

But then, Tator's thoughts about Crysis not being so much a game as it is a means to access a specific benchmark makes Crysis even more illogical. But then again, that's just extreme allergic reaction to benchmarking talking...

I've only brought the machine out of mothballs at this point. I've got a battle plan for this thing that I've yet to execute. It's still at stock speed at the moment.

If thlnk3r and I were to have our mano-a-mano OC duel, this would have been my challenger. Alas, he's done OCing his machine; give me a couple of weeks, maybe a month or so, and I'll get this lady OCing.

It is rather unfortunate what they did with Crysis. Such a waste, yet it could've been SOOO much more.
But the upside to it is that it's totally playable @ 30+FPS.

In regards to your CFX, might I suggest you try RAID on the ULi chipset. 1 drive will more than likely not work. It doesn't on mine at least, and yet 2 drives show up without a hitch.
And that makes me wonder if your board will do the same strange lockup once then be normal like mine does.
She is a finicky board that is for sure, but I've used it for so long that odd things no longer surprise me. Sometimes it does a hard lock up, others it'll simply reboot on its own.I kind of prefer the latter of the 2.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Haha, I'm sorry, but I can't go back to the arrow keys, that's to cramped. WSAD 4 Life.

I wholeheartedly agree. Although I can use the arrow keys, I prefer WASD. There are so many other keys close by it makes using anything else rather inconvenient.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Tator, nice man. My brother used WSAD all the time, I preferred QSDX









I'm not sure I'd even be able to play using those keys. That is a rather odd key config.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I have used something similar to QSDX... it is actually not bad. (In my case, it was QACV... ring finger does forward/back, the thumb does left/right.) I do not remember WHY I did this, but I just did.

Hue: Ever try the Quake controls? If I remember right, right mouse button there is forward.

No offense, but you guys with your odd key configs would probably not do so well in CS(S).

IIRC, Q1 & Q2 used RMB for forward and < > for strafe left and right, and " for activate. A good frined of mine still uses that key config to this day and gets all flustered when he has to use WASD or the arrows.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Hmm... I think this is why I have a strong preference and love for racing sims.

Ain't nothing more simple than "turn wheel right, you turn right; turn wheel left, you turn left; right pedal makes you go faster, left pedal makes you go slower (or middle pedal, with three pedal set-ups)," plus the gearchange mechanism of your preference.

The only fly in the ointment is when you have Blitzy and pioneerdoesdonuts conspiring against you and purposely doing kamikaze attacks on your racing car...

Man I wish I had a fun racing sim again. The last one I truly enjoyed was GT2. GT3 looked better, but it wasn't realistic by any means. When your speedo said you were doing 130, it looked like you were doing 35. That game made me rage







.


----------



## mattliston

hey, if anyone is still wanting to help me by checking my bios for possible overclocking unlocks, I think I have a copy saved finally, using a pheonix/award detection tool that ran in windows. I made a copy and attempted a load with notepad and some of the text correctly identifies the BIOS version/type

any takers?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Speaking of old games (Quake), did anyone here ever play Shadow Warrior or Hexen?

Used to love hexen, those gloves rocked!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mattliston* 
Hexen was a classoc favorite, and teh oldest game that I beat without cheating

















I remeber setting my nephew on God mode so he would play without crying. LOL kept him busy for ours and gave us a break! Only took him like 4 years to figure out how to type "god" LOL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
No offense, but you guys with your odd key configs would probably not do so well in CS(S).

Maybe these days, but back in the day when CS was just a Mod I ruled. I switched to DOD as it didn't have the kiddies fragging their own team.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mattliston* 
hey, if anyone is still wanting to help me by checking my bios for possible overclocking unlocks, I think I have a copy saved finally, using a pheonix/award detection tool that ran in windows. I made a copy and attempted a load with notepad and some of the text correctly identifies the BIOS version/type
any takers?

I need to figure out how to generate the crc bit for the new bios's I'll look into it when I get some spare time. It will be awhile. If you want to research it pm me and I'll work with you. I'm totally overloaded with Important sttuff and my grandma is in hospice so I'm trying to go see her everyday.


----------



## Blitz6804

(>_<)

That sucks Hueristic, wish her the best for us!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I'm not sure I'd even be able to play using those keys. That is a rather odd key config.

No offense, but you guys with your odd key configs would probably not do so well in CS(S).

BlackOmega, Q was forward, S and D were strafe left and right and X was backwards.

Worked perfectly fine back in CS 1.3 and in CS:S. Those first few shots from the AK still land right on the head









Hueristic, hope all is well with your Grandma!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
(>_<)

That sucks Hueristic, wish her the best for us!

I echo our barrister in training here, Hue.

mattliston, I hope you and Hue are able to sort things out.







Wish I had more time to play with y'alls, but work is, well...


----------



## Hueristic

THX guys, She's gonna be 90 in OCT if she makes it and she's pretty happy with how her life turned out so that's a biggie. Nothing like when my little sister died.









Back on topic: I always changed the left and right arrow to strafe and before that always used mouse look so didn't even use those buttons to look left and right. I'm deadly around corners with that config. I just put the keyboard far to the left and use my left hand on the keyboard and mouse in the right and I'm ready for battle! That is why I didn't play 1942 because I couldn't get my key mapping right. Probally was doing it wrong. I'm not to bright these days.









Wait a minute how did that ^^^ become On Topic!









:real On topic: Got a xiggy in the mail yesterday and putting my nephews system together with it and got a True for my 165 at the Post Office right now I gotta go get.







Now I can strangle the poor thing even moar! 280htt on a copper finned non heat piped socket A HS, Wonder what I'll get now.


----------



## GuardianOdin

She is in my prayers Hueristic.


----------



## Blitz6804

To this day, my favorite FPS was still the first: Wolfenstein 3D. That was back in the day before the Y-axis existed in games, solely the X-axis and Z-axis. You could use keyboard, or as I did, the mouse for everything. Move mouse forward/back to move forward/back. Press-and-hold right mouse button while moving right/left to strafe right/left. Move right/left without to turn right/left. Fire with left mouse button. Open doors with the middle mouse button. BRILLIANT! (Doom added Page Up / Page Down to look up/down; as did Rise of the Triad for that matter.) Because of these, I did not use WASD for years... the first game I played with that config was Half Life, and even with that, I used my Strategic Commander that I use to this day.


----------



## Hueristic

Z-axis is 3d. Up and down.









Yeah wolfenstien rocked. I loved blakestone and played it constantly, I don't remeber anything but the first level!


----------



## OSDCrusher

I just realized that I am not a member in this club







Well add me now:
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=665349


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Because he demanded it, OSDCrusher is now part of the tribe.

Raw meats and libations courtesy of Game & Watch. Party @ N2G's pad!


----------



## thlnk3r

N2 is having a PARTY?!??!?! I'll bring my Star Trek GEAR!....wait *sniff*


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2 is having a PARTY?!??!?! I'll bring my Star Trek GEAR!....wait *sniff*

Yep!

Party @ N2G's, and you're bringing the drinks and eats!

Party's in honor of OSDCrusher!


----------



## N2Gaming

NP bring all the drinks you can drink







I'll make sure to have the tire inflated on the wheel barral so that we can get you to a cab when it's time to go home. LOL I sure wish I could afford to throw a bash. I have enough computers to host about a 7 people lan party.

2x NF4 SLI DR's
1x Expert
3x M2N32 SLI Deluxe
1x Destroyer

Oh but I need gpu's and cpu's and power supplies. Donations welcome. I'll take any & all contributions. j/k

I'm wondering what thlnk3r meant by "sniff"









Edit: got all rapped up in the party talk and forgot to welcome OSDCrusher. Welcome OSD


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I'm wondering what thlnk3r meant by "sniff"









N2Gaming, it was just a nerd flashback


----------



## Hueristic

OSD


----------



## OSDCrusher

It's about time I am a member of this club. Thanks for letting me in


----------



## thlnk3r

Welcome aboard OSDCrusher









...and again great job on the overclock!


----------



## BlackOmega

Welcome OSDcrusher.









Any guys here ever play the original beta of Return to Castle Wolfenstein (Omaha beach map)? That had to be my favorite WWII sim. When they initially released it, it was so awesome, played flawlessly. Used the Quake 3 game engine, aside from HL, the Q3 game engine has to be one of the best ever released (physics wise), IMO.
Then in the second beta, they totally screwed the pooch on what they did with the physics. It "felt" sluggish afterwords. I was so set to buy it, then after they did that BS, I didn't. One of the biggest gaming letdowns ever.









ON TOPIC: Have any of you guys ever tried to run OSX on a 939 machine? My wife is finally thinking about selling her iMac (G5), but of course she really loves OSX. 
If any of you guys have any experience with this, throw some tips my way. And yes, this is a legally obtained copy of OSX. An Apple rep has said it would be perfectly legal to install it as long as the copy was legally obtained. You guys think I could use the copy that came with her iMac for this purpose? 
A 2.9Ghz Opteron 180 Mac......


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


ON TOPIC: Have any of you guys ever tried to run OSX on a 939 machine? My wife is finally thinking about selling her iMac (G5), but of course she really loves OSX. 
If any of you guys have any experience with this, throw some tips my way. And yes, this is a legally obtained copy of OSX. An Apple rep has said it would be perfectly legal to install it as long as the copy was legally obtained. You guys think I could use the copy that came with her iMac for this purpose? 
A 2.9Ghz Opteron 180 Mac......










BlackOmega, a friend at work was running a older version of the Mac OS on his PC. I believe it was in emulated mode. I'll try and get the details when I see him on Monday. Here are a few results that Google turned up: http://www.google.com/search?q=running+osx+on+pc&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&client=firefox-a.

In regards to your first question...yes I played the Beta version of the game before it was released. It was a pretty good game for it's time. I can't believe it's been almost 8 years









Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Omega Supreme, this is an interesting question.

A quick hop on Google suggests it's possible to do a Hackintosh with AMD components. However, Maximum PC (which is the source of what I'm about to tell you) says that it's actually impossible to do so on an AMD system.

That same link suggests, though, that with a modern AMD system (i.e., K10-era), you can indeed do it. But it looks like us K8 holdovers might be frozen out of this one.

What's the real answer? To be honest, I don't know.







But if there's nothing to lose in the attempt, why not find out?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


A quick hop on Google suggests it's possible to do a Hackintosh with AMD components. However, Maximum PC (which is the source of what I'm about to tell you) says that it's actually impossible to do so on an AMD system.


Joe, oh yeah good point there. I remember reading that article a few months back. I've so far have only seen the OS on a Intel machine (at work).


----------



## Hueristic

What about virtually? Can you run OSX that way? If so then you can slowley wean her off it!


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


ON TOPIC: Have any of you guys ever tried to run OSX on a 939 machine? My wife is finally thinking about selling her iMac (G5), but of course she really loves OSX. 
If any of you guys have any experience with this, throw some tips my way. And yes, this is a legally obtained copy of OSX. An Apple rep has said it would be perfectly legal to install it as long as the copy was legally obtained. You guys think I could use the copy that came with her iMac for this purpose? 
A 2.9Ghz Opteron 180 Mac......










I haven't tried it on my Skt 939 machine. But I was able to get Haxintosh going on my A64 x2 4000+ & EVGA 590 SLi.

So K8 era hardware shouldn't be a problem.

And a nForce 5 chipset is just a rebagged nForce 4, so you shouldn't have to much of a problem.

The setup will take you a bit, and you might be left without some features though.

I remember that I could not use my extra USB ports (external chip controlling that wouldn't work in OSX) and I had a few issues with onboard sound at first.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Opty 170 is installed, dialed it in a bit for now. Still have some tweaking to do to the RAM. Currently running at 2.8Ghz

LOL so use to the 9 multiplier, this 10 has me all crazy


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Opty 170 is installed, dialed it in a bit for now. Still have some tweaking to do to the RAM. Currently running at 2.8Ghz


GuardianOdin, wow 2.8Ghz right off the bat









Are you still running stock Vcore?

Good luck buddy


----------



## terence52

maybe i should join too
now waiting for my am2+ mobo to get back
spec are below for now
oced it to 2.1 and undervolted it


----------



## Blitz6804

All we need is a CPU-Z validation, and you are good to go terence52.


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

Man, i'm having such a hard time finding a friend with a 939 motherboard. I have a 3800x2 chip but want to make sure it's good before getting a motherboard.

Wasting money on a motherboard would suck if my chip didn't work.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary* 
Man, i'm having such a hard time finding a friend with a 939 motherboard. I have a 3800x2 chip but want to make sure it's good before getting a motherboard.

Wasting money on a motherboard would suck if my chip didn't work.

test suicide it for4 ye...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary* 
I have a 3800x2 chip but want to make sure it's good before getting a motherboard.

Wasting money on a motherboard would suck if my chip didn't work.

BigpoppaFrary, was the processor in working condition before you acquired it?


----------



## N2Gaming

Kinda off topic guys and gals alike but I think I just found heavan tonight or as close to it as I have ever been.







Seriously though I have never been to a place like I was at tonight and felt so at home w/so many spring chickens running around w/awesome live muzak to dance to. Gotta love3>owait that's <3 love american rock bands and beutiful ladies.









Peace out.......


----------



## Blitz6804

Hueristic: Time for you to be proud of me.

I finally got around to making dummy VGA plugs for my GPUs. I only broke one resistor (fortunately I had a spare). I did it all myself, with no help from anyone but the wiring diagram. What is more, is that all the plugs seem to work. (If I plug each into my GPU, it recognizes a monitor and lets me extend the desktop onto it.)

Unfortunately, not it is not letting me disable CrossfireX; next time I reboot I will see if I can get quad folding.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Hueristic: Time for you to be proud of me.

I finally got around to making dummy VGA plugs for my GPUs. I only broke one resistor (fortunately I had a spare). I did it all myself, with no help from anyone but the wiring diagram. What is more, is that all the plugs seem to work. (If I plug each into my GPU, it recognizes a monitor and lets me extend the desktop onto it.)

Unfortunately, not it is not letting me disable CrossfireX; next time I reboot I will see if I can get quad folding.













































:applaud :





























I'm proud of you just for Folding!









+rep


----------



## Blitz6804

Haha. I fold when I can (and remember it). Based on my rank, you can see it happens less in the summer than in the winter. (For one, I am not in class, so I cannot fold while in class.)

Unfortunately, once again GPU clients are dropping out. Mere seconds after booting them, 3 of the 4 died out. I fiddled with my Northbridge, and now 2 died, 2 seem to still be running okay. Remember with a single HD 4870x2, I could only fold on the subservient core, not the dominant one. This seems to be happening again. I will someday get all four working though, mark my words!


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BigpoppaFrary, was the processor in working condition before you acquired it?


i got it from a buddy and he said the mobo died so he gave me the mobo and chip still inside. It's been sitting for 1 year~ and i want to make sure it sitll works because i could sure use it.

I don't have the money to get a 939 mobo and have it not work.

know what i mean?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Haha. I fold when I can (and remember it). Based on my rank, you can see it happens less in the summer than in the winter. (For one, I am not in class, so I cannot fold while in class.)

Unfortunately, once again GPU clients are dropping out. Mere seconds after booting them, 3 of the 4 died out. I fiddled with my Northbridge, and now 2 died, 2 seem to still be running okay. Remember with a single HD 4870x2, I could only fold on the subservient core, not the dominant one. This seems to be happening again. I will someday get all four working though, mark my words!


You should start a thread in the [email protected] section. I have no clue how to fold on ATI, let alone X2's and once again let alone crossfired!









I have heard that the new nvidia's allow sli folding.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary*


i got it from a buddy and he said the mobo died so he gave me the mobo and chip still inside. It's been sitting for 1 year~ and i want to make sure it sitll works because i could sure use it.

I don't have the money to get a 939 mobo and have it not work.

know what i mean?


Does the board give a beep code when powered up? what board is it? Do you have a link?


----------



## Blitz6804

That would be win, being able to fold without needing to disable SLI/Crossfire. With Crossfire it is only a minor annoyance. With SLI, some programs must be shut before it will let you swap between the two modes. Strangely, AIM is on the list of programs that must not be running.

As to the folding card issues: it has been like this since I got my HD 4870x2. It has been RMAed and still does it. Several other people have the same problem. It MUST be driver related.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary* 
i got it from a buddy and he said the mobo died so he gave me the mobo and chip still inside. It's been sitting for 1 year~ and i want to make sure it sitll works because i could sure use it.

I don't have the money to get a 939 mobo and have it not work.

know what i mean?

Check the "For Sale" section and you should be able to find a good MB for it. I've seen more DFI's lately here and elsewhere than I could shake a stick at and the prices were decent to say the least. Fleabay is another alternative but as you know, be careful there.

Of course if you really don't feel like bothering with it, N2 or Blitz can suicide the chip for you....


----------



## Blitz6804

I would not be suiciding it... literally decapitating it (as compared to delidding it) perhaps.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary* 
i got it from a buddy and he said the mobo died so he gave me the mobo and chip still inside. It's been sitting for 1 year~ and i want to make sure it sitll works because i could sure use it.

BigpoppaFrary, these processors are pretty strong. I don't want to guarantee anything but more than likely it's fine. If his board died because of a power surge then I might think twice. Do you know what exactly happened to his board (symptoms ect)?

Good luck


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I would not be suiciding it... literally decapitating it (as compared to delidding it) perhaps.


Ahhh... The cyber beheading of a chip.

I've done that before.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Ahhh... The cyber beheading of a chip.

I've done that before.










Hey, Where have you been! You got alot of nerve disappearing without permision!









BTW I gave someone your name for some help on socket A stuff, and I found that Asus board. It's a rev.1.01, You want it?


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Hey, Where have you been! You got alot of nerve disappearing without permision!









BTW I gave someone your name for some help on socket A stuff, and I found that Asus board. It's a rev.1.01, You want it?

Just may be interested in the MB. Refresh my memory of the model name of the board please and I can tell you if I can use it or not.

Believe they have contacted me about the Socket A stuff and of course, they and anyone else can do so if needed.









As to why I was gone for awhile, I was out with a "Dead Modem" that lightning took out. Got the replacement when I got paid and of course I'm back.


----------



## Blitz6804

I wonder if it was the same storm that knocked out my power on the evening of the 9th to the morning of the 10th...


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I wonder if it was the same storm that knocked out my power on the evening of the 9th to the morning of the 10th...

I doubt it since I'm nowhere near you at all.


----------



## BlackOmega

Thanks for the info on making a Hackintosh fellas. I'll have to do some serious digging around and find out exactly how step by step they did it. From what it seems like I must use an NF4 board. But that is a project for another time as school just started for me yesterday. Man there are some REALLY hot chicks in my classes, one has boobs the size of .......cantaloupes







and she's skinny.

Anyway, but something I actually need some assistance with. ANd yes I already did post this in the [email protected] section. 
I decided to get folding on my sig rig, the extra 6kPPD wouldn't be a bad improvement. 
At any rate, I d/led the V6GPU2 console client. Ran the installer, etc.etc. Then went in copied the folder and shortcuts. But when I went to change the target and start in paths, the target path is grayed out. I went ahead and changed the start in path and now I have 2 instances running. only 1 issue, according to GPUz, it would seem that both of the instances are running on the primary GPU. It shows 63*C and 99% activity. GPU2 shows, 53*C and 0% activity. 
Then to verify that it indeed is running only on the primary, in task manager there are 2 [email protected]_11.exe's. On my nvidia machines, the [email protected]_1x.exe change the number. As in [email protected]_11,[email protected]_14.
Wth is going on here? Any ideas?


----------



## Blitz6804

Happens to me too. Because you are not the owner of the shortcut, you cannot modify its properties. Either change ownership, or alternatively, make a new shortcut and replace the old one with it.

Also, in the config files, one must be "-gpu 0" and the other as "-gpu 1".


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Happens to me too. Because you are not the owner of the shortcut, you cannot modify its properties. Either change ownership, or alternatively, make a new shortcut and replace the old one with it.

Also, in the config files, one must be "-gpu 0" and the other as "-gpu 1".


Where do you exactly do that? With my nvidia ones I had access to both of the paths....

But wait.....







does this actually mean I can run 2 instances per card?







If so that would be pretty sweet.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes and no. You can run a few instances per card. However, you will not gain anything for your troubles, if anything, you get lower PPD due to the greater overhead.

When you run the config via the command prompt, one of the last questions is for additional tags. You would do it then. If you are using the GUI model, you'll see a blank for additional tags, which is where you would put it.

For shortcuts, right-click the program and tell it to create shortcut. Move the new shortcut where you want it. You should have access to both the target and startin lines in that manner. You can put the -gpu tags in the target at that time. (I prefer them hard wired into my client personally. Same with SMP.)


----------



## nategr8ns

that's a lot of posts...
I'm going to be lazy and not read them all








Summer's over and I'll have [a bit] more time to browse the forums







.

So what's been going on?


----------



## thlnk3r

Nategr8ns, welcome back. Not a whole lot has been going on. I finally got my sig rig up and running. For a while there I was down (sold some stuff). Joe was nice enough to let me borrow his old 1950XT...that should hold me over for a while









Do you have plans/projects coming up with any of your stuff?


----------



## N2Gaming

nate and the rest of the gang....


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Nategr8ns, welcome back. Not a whole lot has been going on. I finally got my sig rig up and running. For a while there I was down (sold some stuff). Joe was nice enough to let me borrow his old 1950XT...that should hold me over for a while









Do you have plans/projects coming up with any of your stuff?

I'm not really sure, I would like to migrate over to vista (or maybe dual-boot vista/xp/ubuntu or xp/ubuntu). RAM overclocking would also be fun, but there's no time for it (AP stats, AP US History, and AP Chemistry this year, fun).


----------



## Blitz6804

Trust me on this... wait for Windows 7.


----------



## HothBase

Yup, haven't had much time to read during the summer either. Now that school has started again, here I am, heh.
I've pretty much decided to go AM3 in 2010, probably by autumn, maybe spring but I doubt it and I'm not sure it would be of much use during the summer anyway.
Not sure about what to do with the 939 but I'm keeping it for sure.


----------



## N2Gaming

Win 7 is nice and all but I have problems learning to navigate it. I can't figure out certain things like how to make it have the old classis look and feel. MS paint took me a few minutes to get use to in order to edit pictures for BNBB project thread.







and last night I tried to run Everest Ultimate 5.2 benchmark tool and the sytem froze on stock settings. Mind you this was on a AM2 rig that I have a AM2+ cpu in but never the less freezing issues. IDK why but I wa like this is not better then XP x64 yet. Sure it looks pretty and all if your willing to learn to navigate a new os all over again.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


I've pretty much decided to go AM3 in 2010, probably by autumn, maybe spring but I doubt it and I'm not sure it would be of much use during the summer anyway.


HothBase, those are my intentions as well but then again my S939 rig is still capable of performing my daily tasks


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


HothBase, those are my intentions as well but then again my S939 rig is still capable of performing my daily tasks










It's a good idea to wait just because of the new SB850 chipset coming out then.

The 890FX chipset is as well, but it's probably just gonna be a die shrink down to 40nm as the specs look the same as the 790FX.

SB850 will have native SATA III/6Gbs x 6 and a Total of of 8 USB 3.0 connections as well.

It's supposed to have advancements for SSD's as well as improved I/O performance.


----------



## thlnk3r

Tator, do you have plans to jump the gun and pick up any new hardware or are you holding off until you REALLY need it?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator, do you have plans to jump the gun and pick up any new hardware or are you holding off until you REALLY need it?


I'm waiting for more info on Bulldozer and see where AMD takes the new 965BE design.

Many don't know, but it has a new NB & IMC that can achieve higher clocks easier.

But at the same time, something tells me we'll see AM3+ soon, which will give native DDR3 1600mhz (maybe even 1866/2000mhz)

So basically my intention is to hold out till probably next fall, and see what's comming.

If we are waiting another 2 years for Bulldozer, then I'll probably just buy and then update again then.

Though, I have a feeling that 2011 will bring a PCIe 3.0 chipset, and that's my main holdoff.

I upgrade when it's a full, 100%, across the board upgrade. (Though I do try to have multiple systems.) So my next upgrade I want to have PCIe 3.0, SATA III, USB 3.0 and probably the Bulldozer CPU as it's looking to be a completely new design from AMD.

As many know, Intel's Core architecture is based on the basic Pentium III design, well AMD's K8/K10/K10.5 all share the same basic 3 path instructions that K7's (Athlon XP) revolutionized.

Though, nothing is confirmed yet, I definitely want my next system to feel every bit of an upgrade that I can.

And honestly, anyone running a Dual Core AMD is fine with just poping in a new GPU right now, unless you need a quad.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


HothBase, those are my intentions as well but then again my S939 rig is still capable of performing my daily tasks











I can say the same thing because I've been having trouble finding any new games that I find interesting. However, with titles like Bioshock 2, Mass Effect 2, Guild Wars 2 and Star Wars: The Old Republic coming up I thought it might be time for an upgrade.

At the moment I'm very tempted to buy an X-Box now that they dropped the prices of the Elite version. I was a fan of the original Fable game and I've been wanting to try the sequel for a while, there is even supposed to be a third game on it's way now so I'm a bit excited about that.

As for the SB850 I will have to look into that. If I can get it on a board with a decent price then that's great, but I'm not building a monster.








At the moment it looks like I'm going to be aiming for something to go with a Triple-core (Quad if the price is right by then) and perhaps a HD 5850/5870.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Yes and no. You can run a few instances per card. However, you will not gain anything for your troubles, if anything, you get lower PPD due to the greater overhead.

When you run the config via the command prompt, one of the last questions is for additional tags. You would do it then. If you are using the GUI model, you'll see a blank for additional tags, which is where you would put it.

For shortcuts, right-click the program and tell it to create shortcut. Move the new shortcut where you want it. You should have access to both the target and startin lines in that manner. You can put the -gpu tags in the target at that time. (I prefer them hard wired into my client personally. Same with SMP.)


 Well thats the odd thing, the console command screen didn't pop open when it installed. It was all done auto on the desktop, then when I launched it, it was just like the Nvidia w/ monitor looking client.

EDIT: Just realized I'm using the systray client.


----------



## Blitz6804

Right-click and select... preferences... I think. Where there is a box for additional parameters, you'll do the -gpu 0 or -gpu 1. Alternatively, get the command line client. (I personally prefer the viewer, but use the CMD line.)


----------



## N2Gaming

Here is my take on AM3 quad core. If there was a CCTV capture card that would work w/AMD cpu's chipsets then I would think it would be a great investment. I'd like to use a CCTV card per core and a monitor for each CCTV card. Hence each core and capture card would run at blistering FPS while capturing great images from different quadrants of the security system. I don't think there are very many app's that fully utilize quad core cpu's atm as the way they are designed to be utilized. Well none that we can afford any way.







Never the less it sure would be nice if Intel stuff would work on AMD systems.:swearing:


----------



## txtmstrjoe

All these discussions make me think that perhaps I'll skip AM3 and wait some more.









thlnk3r and I were actually planning an AM3 upgrade this month, but shelved those plans in lieu of making the move around spring of next year. If 890FX + SB850 are out by then, I may go that way (I can't and won't speak for thlnk3r), but if the price difference to 790FX + SB750 are nonsensical compared to the performance benefits (in other words, if you're paying extra and not getting any real performance benefit), then I'll go with our original plan of 790FX + SB750.

I personally won't care if it's not top-of-the-line, as I anticipate it will fulfill all my performance requirements. To be perfectly honest, at this point S939 still does the job quite handsomely for me. But curiosity is still a strong motivator, which explains why I'm considering a platform upgrade from S939.

But if I win the lottery, I'll likely upgrade tomorrow.


----------



## Blitz6804

The other thing of note Joe: if this generation of tech is like all others, expect the 790FX and SB750 boards to drop in price when the 890FX and SB850.


----------



## simfreak47

I'd totally get a 790FX / SB750 once the prices fall due to the 890FX / SB850 come out


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
But curiosity is still a strong motivator, which explains why I'm considering a platform upgrade from S939.

I dislike _curiosity_ sometimes


----------



## N2Gaming

Joe don't forget that by the time 890FX/850 come out, 790FX/750 will have been maxed like w/DFI Venus.







well is should be in theory, so newer is not always better as we all already know to well. My


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
I dislike _curiosity_ sometimes









I know exactly what you mean, thlnk3r!









By the way, good points, all!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Right-click and select... preferences... I think. Where there is a box for additional parameters, you'll do the -gpu 0 or -gpu 1. Alternatively, get the command line client. (I personally prefer the viewer, but use the CMD line.)

I tried that blitz and after I added the flags one client started up just fine and the other said that my hardware is not supported.









I think I'll just download a different client.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I tried that blitz and after I added the flags one client started up just fine and the other said that my hardware is not supported.









I think I'll just download a different client.

Did you remember to extend your desktop to the second monitor?


----------



## Blitz6804

That is only required on Vista N2Gaming as far as I recall.

BlackOmega: I remember hearing once that you can only use the Systray client once, and then each additional one needs to be the command line version. This is why I just ran the command line version to begin with.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


That is only required on Vista N2Gaming as far as I recall.

BlackOmega: I remember hearing once that you can only use the Systray client once, and then each additional one needs to be the command line version. This is why I just ran the command line version to begin with.


If we are talking about GPU clients in XP then you have to disable sli/crossfire and then extend the desktop to the second monitor even though there is no need for a second monitor to be attatched. You don't even need a dummy plug w/XP.







but widows desktop does need to be extend to a second monitor.


----------



## Blitz6804

Gotcha, extending is mandatory, but dummy plugs are not. (If I remember right, Windows 7 does not need dummy plugs either.)


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Did you remember to extend your desktop to the second monitor?


 As a matter of fact I did. Kind of funny though, I can actually extend it to 4 monitors with only having 1 plugged in. Hmmmm.....









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


That is only required on Vista N2Gaming as far as I recall.

BlackOmega: I remember hearing once that you can only use the Systray client once, and then each additional one needs to be the command line version. This is why I just ran the command line version to begin with.


 As N2 pointed out, you do need to extend it to run multiple GPU's.

And thanks for the info about the systray client. Even though I have been running 2 instances since last night, it seems to be doing ok. I'm already at 15k points for the day and my sig rig is about to send 2 more finished WU's. 
I did notice however that my CPU usage is fairly high with the 2 instances running. Ranges from 63-75% constantly. And every so often it'll bump up to 99%.


----------



## scutzi128

I took down my 3500+ 939 that I was using as my file server and turned it into a hackintosh. It runs pretty good surprisingly even though it took awhile to get everything working correctly.


----------



## Blitz6804

BlackOmega: CPU usage while [email protected] was dramatically reduced in Vista and Windows 7. The PPD is slightly less if I remember right, but you could also run a CPU or SMP client with the new found free cycles to recoup that or surpass it.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scutzi128*


I took down my 3500+ 939 that I was using as my file server and turned it into a hackintosh. It runs pretty good surprisingly even though it took awhile to get everything working correctly.


 Nice. 
Could you provide some more details like what mobo you're using, what RAM, what GPU, if you're using a sound card or onboard, which version OSX did you install? etc.

edit:
Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


BlackOmega: CPU usage while [email protected] was dramatically reduced in Vista and Windows 7. The PPD is slightly less if I remember right, but you could also run a CPU or SMP client with the new found free cycles to recoup that or surpass it.










I don't recall my usage being as high on my nvidia rigs, but I'll have to check to verify.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I know exactly what you mean, thlnk3r!









By the way, good points, all!










Just to note on anyone waiting for an AM3 upgrade, check this out to calm your anxiety on pulling the trigger now.

Seems like my initial thoughts earlier today about something better coming soon were right.


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

Well i can now join the ranks of this club. Got a 939 3800x2 i can now use. Just need a few things

=p


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Just to note on anyone waiting for an AM3 upgrade, check this out to calm your anxiety on pulling the trigger now.


Tator, that looks awesome









Apparently these Istanbul processors come in the full height blade servers from Dell. Up to four processors per blade. I had a quick glimpse at the pricing during a recent project and it was a tad expensive hehe.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary*


Well i can now join the ranks of this club. Got a 939 3800x2 i can now use. Just need a few things


BigpoppaFrary, all I need is a cpu-z validation link and I can add you to the roster. Let us know when you're all done!

Good luck


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


BlackOmega: CPU usage while [email protected] was dramatically reduced in Vista and Windows 7. The PPD is slightly less if I remember right, but you could also run a CPU or SMP client with the new found free cycles to recoup that or surpass it.


Actually blitz the ppd is higher in vista and win7 and the cpu overhead in xp was almost completely removed with the 180.XX and higher series drivers. The Win7 I setup is showing major ppd increase and the 190.62 is showeing a modest increase in xp as well. If technet had not hosed my account and keys then I would have switched all my folders over. So uch for the free ten keys they promised me. I hates Micr$haft. and with the email I sent them I doubt I'll ever have a account with any M$ product again.








I'd post it here but the entire thing is against our TOS.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator, that looks awesome







..


glad you posted that Tator, as I was going to mention it. That will be the perfect time to upgrade. The 4 cores should drop to nothing and If Intel releases a competitor as they tend to do (with server chips) then we will all be in a great purchasing position.

@Kryton the Socket a rev 1.01 is a Asus A7X8X-X

I was far too hung over to post much yesterday.


----------



## Blitz6804

Gotcha Hueristic... I should seriously get around to trying [email protected] in Windows 7 and XP to see if I have as many problems as I do in Vista.

But Thlnk3r: Think of the power! Quad hexa-cored processors? I am drooling just thinking about it.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Tator, that looks awesome









Apparently these Istanbul processors come in the full height blade servers from Dell. Up to four processors per blade. I had a quick glimpse at the pricing during a recent project and it was a tad expensive hehe.

As Hue says below me, this is gonna drop the price on i7's and quads in general because Intel will have to come back with something, and they can't price a BE Quad against a BE Hexa, so we'll see drops on the 965BE, and the 955BE will probably get an EOL on it.

Also remember that in those blades (I got to touch ones







) those are special socket F chips & quad socket boards. They actually are a little bit different when compared to a desktop opty, because they use a technology of Hyper Transport so the CPU's actually get to communicate directly with one another, the RAM, and a main chipset.
So it's pretty expensive and a bit hard to get right.

Then you gotta factor in the price of server grade ECC Buffered DDR3 RAM...









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
glad you posted that Tator, as I was going to mention it. That will be the perfect time to upgrade. The 4 cores should drop to nothing and If Intel releases a competitor as they tend to do (with server chips) then we will all be in a great purchasing position.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*
But Thlnk3r: Think of the power! Quad hexa-cored processors? I am drooling just thinking about it.

They'll definitely be some computing beasts, and if my Tator senses are right, which they have been on the ball this week, we'll probably see this CPU come in at $50 a core. Aka a $300 price point, and marketed as a Black Edition with unlocked multi.

Because thanks to the SOI method AMD uses to make chips, it costs so little to make a quad apposed to a dual core. (more so with the binning/core disabling they do.) So at the end of the day, making an athlon II is only a little bit cheaper than a Phenom, but they still turn a profit on all the chips they make (considering they actually sell them in bulk and such, obviously if they just sold a few it wouldn't work for them) that's why AMD has been coming back so strong.

Cheap, powerful, and easy to manufacture chips.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Okay folks, straight from the "I've never seen this happen before" file: One of my machines was working happily with absolutely no problems (Darth Raivo). Last night, from cold I turn the machine on, and though I get the one happy beep signaling a successful POST it just sits there at the BIOS splash screen (which basically just displays the DFI LANParty logo). It seems that the machine is hung right there, so I Ctrl + Alt + Del and restart; same thing.

I hit Tab to see the POST process screen; the board instructs me to either "Hit Del to enter Setup or hit Esc to enter Boot Menu." There are no error messages ("CMOS Checksum error" or any other type), and the board detects RAM & all drives properly.

So I try either option (Del or Esc); though the system detects the key presses (I can tell because the case speaker registers the tell-tale "ticks" when you hold the keys down), there is no other response. I cannot enter the BIOS setup nor access the Bootup Options screen.

What I've tried: CMOS clear (short only; now I've got the battery out and the CMOS jumper in the Clear position, per DFI veterans' prescribed "Long CMOS clear" procedures). Though the short CMOS clear has resulted in the board returning settings to default, the board still just hangs at the splash screen. (I can tell the board has gone to stock settings because it tells me the RAM has returned to default timings and 2T Command Rate @ the POST process screen.)

Thoughts or insights, gang?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Okay folks, straight from the "I've never seen this happen before" file: One of my machines was working happily with absolutely no problems (Darth Raivo). Last night, from cold I turn the machine on, and though I get the one happy beep signaling a successful POST it just sits there at the BIOS splash screen (which basically just displays the DFI LANParty logo). It seems that the machine is hung right there, so I Ctrl + Alt + Del and restart; same thing.

I hit Tab to see the POST process screen; the board instructs me to either "Hit Del to enter Setup or hit Esc to enter Boot Menu." There are no error messages ("CMOS Checksum error" or any other type), and the board detects RAM & all drives properly.

So I try either option (Del or Esc); though the system detects the key presses (I can tell because the case speaker registers the tell-tale "ticks" when you hold the keys down), there is no other response. I cannot enter the BIOS setup nor access the Bootup Options screen.

What I've tried: CMOS clear (short only; now I've got the battery out and the CMOS jumper in the Clear position, per DFI veterans' prescribed "Long CMOS clear" procedures). Though the short CMOS clear has resulted in the board returning settings to default, the board still just hangs at the splash screen. (I can tell the board has gone to stock settings because it tells me the RAM has returned to default timings and 2T Command Rate @ the POST process screen.)

Thoughts or insights, gang?

Check your power supply for voltages. If you power supply checks out then try to remove as much hardware as possible just to get into the bios. HDD, DVD, extra video card, floppy etc etc. Use just one stick of ram, cpu & video card to see if you can get into the bios that way. If so then you deff have a hardware issue some where.

Good Luck,

N2G

Edit: forgot to mention to check your NB chipset fan to see if it is still spinning.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

N2G, thanks for the advice. That will be next on my TS list if the Long CMOS clear doesn't work.

Anyone else with thoughts/suggestions/opinions? I'm actually curious about the problem itself, and how it happened in the first place... I've never seen anything like this before.


----------



## N2Gaming

That's weird becasue just last week my Daly Driver rig "NF4 SLI DR" would not detect SATA HDD's hence it would not do any thing after passing the POST. I think my issue is related to Power supply but have yet to confirm this.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
That's weird becasue just last week my Daly Driver rig "NF4 SLI DR" would not detect SATA HDD's hence it would not do any thing after passing the POST. I think my issue is related to Power supply but have yet to confirm this.

I'd like to think that my situation has nothing to do with power supply-related issues, since this is a fresh, brand new unit. On the other hand, anything is possible.









I'll run the tests you prescribed if my own troubleshooting isn't successful.

We shall see...


----------



## Blitz6804

Can you try a new CMOS battery? I would expect a bad battery to have a CMOS error, but stranger things have happened. (What you describe happened on my Sister's Intel board, and a new CR2032 fixed it, so you never know.)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Can you try a new CMOS battery? I would expect a bad battery to have a CMOS error, but stranger things have happened. (What you describe happened on my Sister's Intel board, and a new CR2032 fixed it, so you never know.)


I can try that very easily. With the battery out presently I can use my DMM to test its voltages as well to see if it's still kosher (though it ought to be, since it's a brand-new battery, installed when I first took the board out from its bag -- I replaced the DFI-installed battery before using the board).

Heh, I guess it's lucky I bought some CMOS batteries last Friday.









TYVM for suggestion.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hmm







You said you reset CMOS already. I'm thinking that would reset all your bios settings to default but those settings will prolly not be saved until your system is told to do so by you the user by one of two following ways. One, either by going into the bios and F10/Yes to save settings or by pushing F1 after POST so the system can write the current settings to the SRAM CMOS chip.

Now I'm very curious as to what ails your computer... If it is just the CMOS battery then this throughs a monkey wrench into my understanding of how the BIOS & CMOS work. I my self would not think that the battery would prevent you from going into the bios. The BIOS programming is always there. If you loose power to your CMOS chip then your system simply looses all of your prefered BIOS settings. Normally when the battery goes bad your system resets all your BIOS settings again at every reboot. Even though I have not tried it, I would not be supprised if a computer would run w/o any CMOS battery in it.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

N2G, I'm thinking that this may be a case of BIOS corruption. If this is indeed correct, then my next question is how did it happen in the first place?


----------



## Blitz6804

The following question would be how to flash the BIOS if it will not POST.


----------



## Hueristic

dammit stinking board croaked and lost my post.


----------



## Hueristic

OK possibility's for the second time. [email protected][email protected]#@!#$
1. unseated bios chip or bad connection reseat chip
2. possible hanging on peripheral detection, remove all extraneous devices
3. possible bad mem in the lower region or bad connection on mem connector, clean mem pins and sockets try with 1 mem stick in various slots.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


...I would not be supprised if a computer would run w/o any CMOS battery in it.


Yes a system will run without or haveing a dead cmos battery all it will do is lose cmos settings on shutdown.

:EDIT: Triple post


----------



## txtmstrjoe

A plethora of possibilities to explore.









Thanks, one and all!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


N2G, I'm thinking that this may be a case of BIOS corruption. If this is indeed correct, then my next question is how did it happen in the first place?











Maybe the bios files could have been corrupted as to how your guess would be as good as mine. I don't think a bad CMOS battery would corrupt your BIOS Language stored in the BIOS EEPROM chip. Many people confuse the BIOS chip with the CMOS chip. They are two differnt/seperate entities. BIOS chip is electronically eraseable and reprogramable. There is one pin that allows extra power to basically erase the program that is wrtitten to the BIOS chip. CMOS is a SRAM chip that only stores your BIOS settings and is lost if your CMOS battery goes dead. In closing CMOS only saves your perfered bios settings and BIOS is hard coded computer laguage that is not lost until you flash your BIOS chip. Taking the Mistery out of CMOS This link should help explain it a whole lot better.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Yes a system will run without or haveing a dead cmos battery all it will do is lose cmos settings on shutdown.


Makes perfect sense to me.


----------



## scutzi128

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Nice. 
Could you provide some more details like what mobo you're using, what RAM, what GPU, if you're using a sound card or onboard, which version OSX did you install? etc.

edit:







I don't recall my usage being as high on my nvidia rigs, but I'll have to check to verify.


I have an Abit AV8 and used the iPC 10.5.6 distribution. All I had to do was add a Realtek 8139 ethernet card and everything else worked. I have a 3500+ oced to 2520mhz, 1gb ram and a 6800gt with QE/CI. If you need help with it let me know and I could try to help you.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


@Kryton the Socket a rev 1.01 is a Asus A7X8X-X

I was far too hung over to post much yesterday.










Too bad it isn't a Deluxe 2.0 or -E version. Have two Deluxe 2.0's and both clock well. Can't say I could use that one but thanks for offering. The -X doesn't have dual-channel and the board itself in spite of having the NF2 chipset doesn't clock too well compared to most others.

Would be good to use in a machine used for folding though.


----------



## Blitz6804

I am presuming from lack of hearing from anyone that no-one will be coming tomorrow.

Oh well.

As always, I am going to be on Xfire and Steam from the second I get home from college. I will also pop on Skype if we need that for the "virtual" Socket 939 party.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I am presuming from lack of hearing from anyone that no-one will be coming tomorrow.

Oh well.

As always, I am going to be on Xfire and Steam from the second I get home from college. I will also pop on Skype if we need that for the "virtual" Socket 939 party.


Hmmm, I don't have any of those. I thought we were gonna use, what was that began with a "V"? Wow that came fast, I totally forgot.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Hmmm, I don't have any of those. I thought we were gonna use, what was that began with a "V"? Wow that came fast, I totally forgot.


Ventrillo (Vent for short) ?


----------



## N2Gaming

I can try to get something set up if we all decide on the format. I has plenty of beer so bring it on.


----------



## Blitz6804

Which I lack. Besides, do not you have to pay for a chatroom over a certain size?

I've got a fifth of vodka, dare me to drive? </SHADY>


----------



## N2Gaming

Your name is what? </Slim>


----------



## Hueristic

Idunno whatever you guys wanna do that's a free hookup, I'll show up and might be over my hangover enough to crack a beer.


----------



## OSDCrusher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Idunno whatever you guys wanna do that's a free hookup, I'll show up and might be over my hangover enough to crack a beer.


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, like I said, Steam, Xfire, and Skype are all free. I am unsure what their room size limitations are, if any, however. (I tried making an Xfire of 200 people and it didn't complain about it.)


----------



## Hueristic

Just Downloaded Xfire, hueristic has been stolen!

guess I'll be LicheLord.


----------



## N2Gaming

Sounds like Xfire it is... I had it set up before but never really got to use it. I had microphone issues at the time. Well not the microphone but the sound card properties issues w/my onboard M2N32 SLI Deluxe at that time. It was a configuration issue that was resolved.


----------



## Hueristic

Me, Blitz and desert Rat were just on, works pretty good. I think I may have to switch my speakers from these old crummy ones though to disern when multiple peops are talking.

:Edit: PM me when you have it setup and We'll test it.


----------



## Blitz6804

I made the room permanent. Once you have been in it once, you can go in it forever. The name is reserved, so only us can ever use it.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Me, Blitz and desert Rat were just on bullshttin, works pretty good. I think I may have to switch my speakers from these old crummy ones though to disern when multiple peops are talking.

:Edit: PM me when you have it setup and We'll test it.

Gotta put rig back together B4 I can install and test. Watching paint dry is agonizing. It was pretty hot today so the paint should be just about dry to touch now. Goes to get beer followed by checking the paint.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 

Thoughts or insights, gang?

I know this might sound like a silly question, but when you popped the battery out was either the switch on the PSU off or the cord unplugged?
If not, while still being able to reset your BIOS settings, will not actually clear it. All power must be disconnected from it.

And which HW set up is this exactly? Sorry been kinda out of the loop since school has started up again. 12 credit hours







, I swear the wife is trying to fry my brain.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *scutzi128* 
I have an Abit AV8 and used the iPC 10.5.6 distribution. All I had to do was add a Realtek 8139 ethernet card and everything else worked. I have a 3500+ oced to 2520mhz, 1gb ram and a 6800gt with QE/CI. If you need help with it let me know and I could try to help you.

Awesome!







I'll have to verify which version she has. I just happen to have a 3500+ on a DFI NF4 Ultra-D. And, coincidentally, I just happen to find a PCI ethernet/modem card at my dad's.
I'm not sure when I'll have the time to do it with school starting up. But when I do, I'll definitely look you up. Thanks.







:

The rest of youz: Looks like I'll have to d/l xfire again. Haven't used it in a long time. Is there a room name and PW?


----------



## N2Gaming

I'm starting to hate win 7 more and more on a daly basis... I got the mic installed and is working to test the properties and I can hear my self when testing my microphone though my speakers but when I try to use the sound recorder it tells me there is no mic installed :swearing:


----------



## thlnk3r

Joe, do you have any updates on your situation? A lot of suggestions here were awesome! Can you describe what the LEDS on the bottom of the board are doing when the machine is first powered on? Here is some documentation I dug up from my favorites that may help: http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=325031.

N2Gaming, make sure the right "sound device" is selected for the voice recoding device. For example, in Windows XP under "Sounds and Audio Devices Properties", the _Voice _tab had a section called, "Voice Recording". Make sure the default device is your sound card.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks thlnk3r, that's part of the problem. I has issues navigating Win 7 and it frustrates the good out of me making me want to rage.







Yep I set up the mic. I can hear my self talk when I test the mic w/the recording devices properties but the sound recorder claims no sound recording device detected. I originally had the sound recorder working but no audio was being recorded so I made some changes and now it claims no recording device detected. :swearing: I hate Win 7

Edit: just an observation I made. I have user cp set up to load 100 post's per page. So w/that in mind I noticed we are on page 183 same as my rep.









Anther thing I hate about Win 7 sound recorder is it wont let you listen to the sound you record before you save it in addition I can't figure out how to set it up to show a audio input level while recording...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Fellow S939ers, this is OUR DAY! It's a ONCE IN A LIFETIME OCCASION!

Happy *9*-*3*-0*9* Day!

Thanks to all of you for making this one of OCN's VERY BEST CLUBS!


----------



## N2Gaming

Happy 939 guys


----------



## takealready

Happy 939 day everyone.

As they say "A true Classic Never goes out of style."


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Anther thing I hate about Win 7 sound recorder is it wont let you listen to the sound you record before you save it in addition I can't figure out how to set it up to show a audio input level while recording..

N2Gaming, remember too Win 7 is still in Beta so perhaps this weird anomaly will get fixed before it releases in October. Have you tried any other sound recording applications?

Happy 939 everyone


----------



## N2Gaming

I'm not so familiar w/win 7 and I was having other issues w/it meaning programs not responding etc etc. So I gave up on it put BNBB back together and called it quits on the mic in the garage for now. I did try to install and configure Xfire and I'm thinking it might have issues w/Xfire. now that I think about it I had issues w/Xfire the last time I tried to use it in XP X64 and that is why I uninstalled it.


----------



## Hueristic

Sounds like a real PITA N2









HAPPY 939 ALL!

Well, I'll be on but don't play the games you guys do so I'll jus surf p do research while you guys game.


----------



## Blitz6804

Happy 9-3-9 everyone. I would have done so earlier, but OCN was down. Again.

BlackOmega: No password is needed, all you need to do is be on my Xfire friends list.


----------



## N2Gaming

I have xfire set up User Name n2gaming. I tried to set up blitz as a friend last night but there were only about 100 of so blitz in the look up contacts list.


----------



## Blitz6804

Problem rectified. (You have a friend invite.)

For all, I am (quite logically) Blitz6804 on Xfire.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Wish I had time, freedom, and opportunity to join y'all on X-Fire. As of late, today is quite busy here at the office.









Hope that everyone who shows up has a great time, though.









Someone down a Barq's Root Beer for me, please!


----------



## Blitz6804

Oh, I have class yet today in about two hours. I will be on after 6pm EDT (3pm PDT / 10pm UTC) and actually active at that time.

Sober I am not so sure about...

The key thing is to find a game we can all play rather than just chit-chat... not everyone likes strategy and/or FPS and/or racing games.


----------



## N2Gaming

We should send pm to all 939ers to be there or else.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I made the room permanent. Once you have been in it once, you can go in it forever. The name is reserved, so only us can ever use it.


Blitz, did I miss the room name? Is it still up? I can pop in and camp out for a bit...


----------



## Blitz6804

I thlnk(3r) I forgot to post it.

It is "Skt939FTW."

However, like I said, it currently needs to have you on my buddy list or be invited to it. N2Gaming and I are in there, just hit us up on Xfire and we'll zap you an invite. We will eventually get us all in there.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

It's 9:39PST.


----------



## Blitz6804

Win! (^_^)


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


We should send pm to all 939ers to be there *or else.*










 I think "or else" needs to be added to the end of every sentence, or else.









Happy 9/3/9 fellaz









I'm going to add n2 and blitz to my contacts in xfire.......or else!

Btw, my xfire is black0mega (the o is a zero). Add me OR ELSE!


----------



## Blitz6804

We are getting people in the room... when you see your mates log on, spam them invites. (Everyone send me an invite too please.)

I depart for class now, back in three hours (or so) at which point I break out the mic and booze.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Yo, someone rig some recording equipment.

Sounds like ol' Blitzy's gonna get blitzed and he's gonna lay down some karaoke for all y'all who are gonna be there!


----------



## Hueristic

[email protected]

I just popped back in the room. Tried to get some work done on my window but epic fail on cutting the oak at 45degree on my table saw. Need a break.


----------



## nategr8ns

Ugh, I hate school.
Have fun for me guys







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I think "or else" needs to be added to the end of every sentence, or else.









Happy 9/3/9 fellaz









I'm going to add n2 and blitz to my contacts in xfire.......or else!

Btw, my xfire is black0mega (the o is a zero). Add me OR ELSE!

































Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Yo, someone rig some recording equipment.

Sounds like ol' Blitzy's gonna get blitzed and he's gonna lay down some karaoke for all y'all who are gonna be there!



















Just tell me how....


----------



## Blitz6804

It is easy to Joe... I am not entirely sure I should though...


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, remember too Win 7 is still in Beta so perhaps this weird anomaly will get fixed before it releases in October. Have you tried any other sound recording applications?

Happy 939 everyone










Thanks for the Moral suport. I my self am wondering why there was so little turn out for blitz party. In any case you snooze you loose. I'm having heart palpitatiions thinking about it. Kind of crumby to think that so many peeps could be there and were not.







Any how 939 is with or with out party and continues to live on in my heart palpitating or not... So I am not the smartest cookie in the jar but my cookie taste good from 939 experience.







So put that in your Graphix oven and bake it.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thanks for the Moral suport. I my self am wondering why there was so little turn out for blitz party. In any case you snooze you loose. I'm having heart palpitatiions thinking about it. Kind of crumby to think that so many peeps could be there and were not.







Any how 939 is with or with out party and continues to live on in my heart palpitating or not... So I am not the smartest cookie in the jar but my cookie taste good from 939 experience.







So put that in your Graphix oven and bake it.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


[email protected]

I just popped back in the room. Tried to get some work done on my window but epic fail on cutting the oak at 45degree on my table saw. Need a break.


Yeah wood work can be tedious and unforgiving if yhou make a simple mistage.

Oh not to mention Oak is expensive these days, unless you cut it down your self and trim the timbers to your own specifications.


----------



## OSDCrusher

You guys should update the deatiled list. It says the last time it was updated was 7/23


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OSDCrusher*


You guys should update the deatiled list. It says the last time it was updated was 7/23


OSDCrusher, are you referring to the roster? The last update was on 8/30 by me. Is there something on the main page that we perhaps missed in terms of detail?


----------



## Blitz6804

The detailed roster... that one is my fault.

I have just been too blah lately to fix it.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


The detailed roster... that one is my fault.

I have just been too blah lately to fix it.


Blitz, no problem. If you would like I can remove the link until it gets updated?


----------



## Blitz6804

Nah, I just have to get off my butt and do it. The only thing with it that the newer members do not have their join dates posted (since that is lacking on the on-site roster for space requirements).


----------



## N2Gaming

We never heard back from txt'r joe about his not being able to get into bios issue. If you resolved it joe what was the problem and if not may I offer another suggestion. Try a diff keyboard...


----------



## thlnk3r

N2Gaming, I think he got it up and running by clearing the cmos (if my memory serves me correctly). But we're still not sure what the root of the problem was. One thing that he pointed out to me was the machine was not on any type of surge/ups device. Maybe dirty power was the culprit here


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Yep, sorry for not reporting back, guys. Been AFK too much lately.

But yeah, thlnk3r's report is correct. Long CMOS clear was successful; as to what the cause of the problem was, that is an unsolved mystery...


----------



## N2Gaming

Glad it curable


----------



## Blitz6804

So Txtmstrjoe, two questions for you:

1) How goes Darth Tyfon? All the parts in order yet? Build log soon?
2) Have you looked at my poor silver lady?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
So Txtmstrjoe, two questions for you:

1) How goes Darth Tyfon? All the parts in order yet? Build log soon?
2) Have you looked at my poor silver lady?

Tyfon is weird, in that I'm undecided how to specifically go about it. Water-cooling parts are all here, but I'm hedging as far as what to use vis-a-vis motherboard, CPU, etc...

Your poor silver lady: Bah, I've been neglectful. My apologies. Been busy with client builds lately (amongst other things). But I'm getting close to redeploying the CFX3200 as my testing machine, so I'll be putting the X2 4400+ in it ASAP.


----------



## Blitz6804

Not as neglectful as me for killing her...

You do not know which 939 equipment you are putting under water, or you do not know if it will be 939 at all? AM3 is getting cheaper daily, and Core i5 just launched in both Skt B and Skt H flavors.


----------



## thlnk3r

Speaking of AM3, I may be going with some new stuff hopefully sooner then planned


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


You do not know which 939 equipment you are putting under water, or you do not know if it will be 939 at all? AM3 is getting cheaper daily, and Core i5 just launched in both Skt B and Skt H flavors.


Believe it or not, I'm undecided whether or not to "practice" first with a S939 H2O build, or just jump straight in with AM3. Thanks to my brother-in-law, I'll have an AM3 motherboard in late November (the Gigabyte GA-MA790FXT-UD5P). I haven't decided what chip to use, though I'm more inclined to go with a quad. A well-trusted adviser, though, suggests (quite rightly) that duals are still quite viable AND are able to reach higher core speeds, so I may go with that option.

If I use the water-cooling parts on the AM3 build exclusively, it'll be a while before that project gets off the ground.

Whatever the case, I'll keep you all apprised.


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

I finally have my s939 machine up and running. Just need a long piece of cat 5 or wireless pci card to get it on the net and folding.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary*


I finally have my s939 machine up and running. Just need a long piece of cat 5 or wireless pci card to get it on the net and folding.


BPF,


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary*


I finally have my s939 machine up and running. Just need a long piece of cat 5 or wireless pci card to get it on the net and folding.


BigpoppaFrary, post up your CPU-Z validation as soon as you can and I'll add you to the roster









Good luck buddy


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

Thanks









finally got a dual core to call my own. Now to upgrade this 9200 pci radeon hahah

ok, let me go prnt screen it and put it on my flash. brb


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary*


finally got a dual core to call my own. Now to upgrade this 9200 pci radeon hahah


BigpoppaFrary, that kind of reminds me of my old pci ATI 8500 64mb card. A lovely piece of nostalgia


----------



## BigpoppaFrary




----------



## BigpoppaFrary

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BigpoppaFrary, that kind of reminds me of my old pci ATI 8500 64mb card. A lovely piece of nostalgia










oh it's a great little card hahaha, i got 1.1k 3dmarks on it. But i'm sure 900 of it is the cpu lol.


----------



## thlnk3r

Everyone welcome BigpoppaFrary to the club









BigpoppaFrary, do you have plans to overclock the 3800+ X2?


----------



## goodolsen

I want in, I'll upload my CPU-Z later tonight as I'm at work right now.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Welcome, BPF!!


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

of course i do. If i can get some tips and pointers.

It's only stock cooling but i have 4 fans in my case and it keeps it pretty low. mid 30~40's while running 3dmark.

Do i need to set my ram timings different?

i know i look my pci-x to 100 mhz and my pci to 33 right?

What is a safe v-core? What fsb should i set it at?

i guess i have a lot of questions lol.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary*


Do i need to set my ram timings different?

i know i look my pci-x to 100 mhz and my pci to 33 right?

What is a safe v-core? What fsb should i set it at?

i guess i have a lot of questions lol.


BigpoppaFrary, no problem. You will most likely receive quite a bit of help here









For beginners I regularly recommend checking out these two guides:

http://icrontic.com/articles/a64_overclocking_theory
http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...ocket-am2.html (follows AM2 but most of it is all relative to S939)

Finding the limits of each component(motherboard, processor and memory) is usually the first thing I do. This will give you a good baseline to work off of. I believe the Manchester core (which is what you have) is sort of a pain to sometimes overclock. Quite a bit of Vcore is required once you start to hit 2.6 - 2.7Ghz range so just FYI. For your Hypertransport speeds, try not to exceed 1000Mhz. Some speeds in excess of 1000Mhz can cause instability.

I'm sure others will reply soon with some helpful tips.

Good luck


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

ok soo...

i locked my pci and pci-x at 33 and 100 as i should do.

My memory timings are loosened a bit. i increased cas to 3.

What can i do to lock my HT? or do i adjust it down as i go up in fsb?


----------



## Blitz6804

It changes with your HTT. If your hypertransport will go over 1000, decrease the hypertransport multiplier, if present.


----------



## BlackOmega

Welcome BPF!

AFA vcore is concerned, IMO, you can take it as high as the chip will allow, and keep it in the safe temp zone.

It has been discussed here several times that the higher you take the vcore the lower your max allowable temp will be. However we have no verifiable proof, and it is relegated to speculation at this point.

And as others have said, keep your HT under 1k (adjust as necessary with regard to the reference clock (HTT/FSB)), same with your RAM.
Since you're going to be finding out your max HTT (FSB) and max CPU OC, don't worry about RAM timings just yet. Simply set them all to auto, the board will do the rest for you. And most of the time it does a pretty good job. With my old Asus, it wasn't uncommon to see timings as tight as 2-2-2-5.

Read those guides that thlnk3r linked to, there is a plethora of information in them. Well worth the read. It will make you a better overclocker.

Good luck


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

ok, is 1.38 a lot to put to the vcore? i incrsed the fsb to 215 and put the vcore to 1.38

i'm running occt and getting 60 on each core.


----------



## BlackOmega

Stock vcore for most 939 chips will be between 1.35v-1.40v. So you're ok at this point.

60*C is not too hot depending on what temperature monitoring software you're using. If you're using PcProbe then actually it could very well be too hot.
Personally, I use coretemp. It measures the actual core temperature rather than the integrated heat sink (IHS) as PcProbe does. You'll quickly notice that there is quite a bit of difference between PcProbe and coretemp. I never let my my chips go above 65*C at the core. That is my safe zone and it hasn't failed me yet.

Good Luck


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

i'm just reading what occt is telling me as i'm testing for stability.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary* 
i'm just reading what occt is telling me as i'm testing for stability.

Download coretemp and see if it's the same. IIRC, OCCT also only reads the IHS. Stop the test and install coretemp. Then restart your test. It's better not to let the chip get too hot as this _will_ be detrimental to the chips health, and OC potential.

Good Luck


----------



## Blitz6804

For a BH-E4 X2 3800+, your maximum temperature is _up to_ 71Âº C. As BlackOmega said, it is a good idea to try to keep your load temperatures around 66Âº C to give yourself some leeway if something bad happens.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary*


i'm running occt and getting 60 on each core.


BigpoppaFrary, for being on a stock cooler that temperature looks about right. The airflow and cable management in your case will also make a huge difference. Do you have a low ambient temperature?

Good luck


----------



## NoGuru

Socket 775 sneaks though tee hee.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NoGuru*


Socket 775 sneaks though tee hee.


NOGuru, hey my VM Host is a 775. Pretty solid rig so far!


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

my cable management is really good. I am missing two 5x12 or whatever the dimensions to cd drives are so there is a big open whole in the front of my case. i have a fan on my side panel and two for exhaust.


----------



## Blitz6804

If you are good with your hands, you might be able to jury rig two 80mm fans in the opening for added air flow.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary*


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

i have my 3800x2 at 2300 mhz and 920 ht with 1.38 vcore.

temps max 58-61 on stock cooler. I'm going to max this stock cooler and see where i can get it.


----------



## BlackOmega

Frary, which stock cooler are you using? Does yours have the heat pipes? Or is it the solid aluminum heatsink?

I put a 92mm Tornado fan on my stock opty cooler (the one with the heatpipes), and that actually helped alot but as you'll read, those things are LOUD!They sure do move a lot of air though. It actually lowered my mobo temps by almost 10*C!








In the end I opted for an aftermarket cooler as, lets face it, are way better than the factory ones and considerably quieter. 
Before I sold my opty, I was planning on lapping it and the stock cooler just to see if it would make a bit of difference.









Maybe I'll try that with my AM3 rig when I build it.


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

i have the regular solid aul cooler









i'm going to go to aftermarket when i have more money









i need to find out how tall the mugen 2 is and if i can fit it in my case.


----------



## goodolsen

My CPU-Z link...http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=693973


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

ok, i booted into windows at 250 fsb 1.38 vcore and 4x ht

i tried to open cpuz but it bsod and before it restarted i saw "memory management" as the error message.

i tried 240 fsb at 1.375 and it's working good. temps staying under 65 on occt stress test.


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

Quote:



Originally Posted by *goodolsen*


My CPU-Z link...http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=693973


brisbanes are am2...


----------



## DesertRat

BigpoppaFrary, Blitz said you needed some advice or help w/ the mugen 2? I have one on my AM2+ system.

edit: there's this thread too that might help.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary*


brisbanes are am2...


Yeah.

So are Windsors


----------



## DesertRat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary*


i have the regular solid aul cooler









i'm going to go to aftermarket when i have more money









*i need to find out how tall the mugen 2 is and if i can fit it in my case*.


From the case's mobo plate to top of it's heatpipes it's about 7" tall. I'd say the cooler itself is 6 1/2" tall.

It keeps my Unlocked 720 nice and cool.


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

i'll measure my case and see if it will fit. I'd hate to have to cut my UV painted side panels.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *goodolsen* 
My CPU-Z link...http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=693973

Goodolsen, thank you for posting that up but unfortunately this club is for Socket 939 processors only. However if you have any overclocking questions feel free to ask away









Quote:


Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary* 







i'll measure my case and see if it will fit. I'd hate to have to cut my UV painted side panels.

BigpoppaFrary, if you have a standard ATX case then I'm sure it will fit. What kind of case do you have?

Good luck


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

hahaha, the people who made my case also make military unifroms.... that's legit right?

this is it http://www.bccpc.com/bccpc/712_4HLW_SS_Des.htm


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary* 
hahaha, the people who made my case also make military unifroms.... that's legit right?

this is it http://www.bccpc.com/bccpc/712_4HLW_SS_Des.htm

BigpoppaFrary, oh that cooler will more than likely fit in the case. The 80mm fan on the side panel might be an issue though but it's hard to tell. Did you take measures just to be 100% sure?

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Hey where the heck has everybody been? I know N2 is trying to fix his stang, but where are the rest of you guys?


----------



## mattliston

trying to find a job and somehow paying bills without one :/


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hey where the heck has everybody been? I know N2 is trying to fix his stang, but where are the rest of you guys?


BlackOmega, greetings my friend









I've been busy the past few weeks with projects. Only been able to post in a few threads this week ack...


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Hey where the heck has everybody been? I know N2 is trying to fix his stang, but where are the rest of you guys?

Raging over a few weeks worth of Technology based misshapps.
Between Newegg shipping to the wrong address, a DOA refurb phone, and another one dying 2 days later.

And just a pile on of other crap, including the start of my first semester of college it's been a very frustrating month.

But I'm hanging in there.

Hopefully I'll get my new speaker setup soon, should be pretty nice. Hopefully it doesn't fall into this months technology vortex.


----------



## thlnk3r

Tator, still no hits on the PE2800? Man I just literally like a few days ago got rid of about 5 6650's and some oldddd Powervault arrays. They went to the server graveyard


----------



## N2Gaming

to all. I think I'm going more







then I all ready am trying to diagnose my stang. Thanks for the support BO. I'm about to try and pull the number 1 wire again.

I just finished talking to a guy for a couple of hours. He lives an hour away from me in Pitsburg, ca. He came by to look at my 1975 Mach I 4Cyl 4spd yellow & black mustang that I'm selling for $500.00... I know I should ask for more but the trunk has cancer and the motor has a flat cam followed by the master cylider being bad and finally the registration out of date and not non opt'd... Bottom line is I just need the money and want the car our of my Back yard. I would fix it up if I had a job and good income but my priorities are get out of debt while trying to get a decent job. After all the biggest assets this Mach I has is that it is rare and is the last year of Smog Exempt vehicles in Californina. Not to mention it is an original California Vehicle. In any case I think I may have it sold. The best part is the guy is one cool dude and I honestly believe he will do what I would do w/the car so letting it go to him for so cheap won't bother me as much as if it was going to a person just looking for a cheap car or a person looking to make a quick buck off of it because of it's Classic ness.


----------



## thlnk3r

N2Gaming, at least yours went to someone that could use it. Mine is probably waiting to get crushed hahahha. It's nice to have some room back though huh?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Tator, still no hits on the PE2800? Man I just literally like a few days ago got rid of about 5 6650's and some oldddd Powervault arrays. They went to the server graveyard









I just can't stand to kill off old tech.

It'll probably sit in my sig till I feel like ditching it.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, at least yours went to someone that could use it. Mine is probably waiting to get crushed hahahha. It's nice to have some room back though huh?

yeah it's not a sure sale yet. This guy has another dude in his neighborhood that has a 76 cobra w/all kinds of mods on the engine, Cobra R wheels etc etc that he was told would let it go for $500.00 so this kid is thinking of taking the 76 cobra and putting all the cobra parts on my 75 mach I and turn it into a smog exempt cobra. The cobra he is gonna buy has a cracked block so he is not just going to flip the car he is going to spend the man hours to turn the car into a nice rare classic that I originally had planned for the car. This is a Third hand me down from w/in the family so it saddens me to let it go because my father God bless his soul and hopes he is in heavan now bought the car for my oldest bro and he then kicked down to the mid bro and then kicked down to me. So I have a Family type tradition Classic mustang II Mach I that I really don't want to part w/just for sentamental reasons but times are hard on me atm so I'm doing every thing I can to stay afloat...

Sorry to hear your car is going to end up in or has already met the crusher









These cars are increasing in value now that they are getting harder and harder to find, well that and there is not many fools that like them makes it more mistique for those that understand what the car means to the mustang during the mid 70's it deff carried the stang legend over to what the car is today. A bahumbug... it's al old car that I really don't want to work on any way. I just wish I had the money/energy/time to work on it to revive it to show room condition. It's reall not in that bad of shape considering it's only 35 years old. It still drives " suspension wise " smoother than most new cars...

Oh well time to cut my losses and let by gones be by gones like I did w/my 92 Tricked out Kawasaki 550 SX jet ski. Don't get me started on all the losses I have been thru...

I just like to think of this as a mid life transition that will eventually turn around for the better.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hey boyos, sorry 'bout the Club being a little dead-ish.

Been so busy at work; my co-worker's on a week-long vacation, so I'm doing two people's work.







Then at home I'm almost out of energy, and all I can really do is spend a bit of time restoring my rig that went down the other week. It's almost all caught up, though, which is good; plus it's Vista on RAID 0 (previously, it was just on one HDD). Took me forever to figure out how to configure the hardware so that it would do RAID... (and this is even with reading so much material.







)

Hopefully I'll have more time to pop in and talk S939 tech with y'alls soon.

I'll say this, though: We'll have a special announcement sometime next week about a change in our Club.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mattliston* 
trying to find a job and somehow paying bills without one :/









Holy sh.. I wish you luck. I know it sucks being without work. What are your skills?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, greetings my friend









I've been busy the past few weeks with projects. Only been able to post in a few threads this week ack...

Hey thlnk3r. Yeah me too. School has started for me again, so I've been super busy. On the plus side, I sit next to the hottest girls in 2 of my classes and BS with them.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Raging over a few weeks worth of Technology based misshapps.
Between Newegg shipping to the wrong address, a DOA refurb phone, and another one dying 2 days later.

And just a pile on of other crap, including the start of my first semester of college it's been a very frustrating month.

But I'm hanging in there.

Hopefully I'll get my new speaker setup soon, should be pretty nice. Hopefully it doesn't fall into this months technology vortex.

O that's a bummer. When it rains, it pours I suppose.

I've been having a tech issue with my sig rig. The CFX curse is somewhat coming back. It didn't want to POST the other day and it reset the BIOS by itself. And kind of a new thing, after using it for a while when I shut it down it just reboots itself. Sometimes 3 or 4 times.

So I might have to go AM3 sooner than I thought. That and my wife has been on me about turning one of my folding rigs into a Mac.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 







to all. I think I'm going more







then I all ready am trying to diagnose my stang. Thanks for the support BO. I'm about to try and pull the number 1 wire again.

1975 Mach I 4Cyl 4spd yellow & black mustang for $500.00... The best part is the guy is one cool dude and I honestly believe he will do what I would do w/the car so letting it go to him for so cheap won't bother me as much as if it was going to a person just looking for a cheap car or a person looking to make a quick buck off of it because of it's Classic ness.









Glad a Mustang II lover got the car, they're a special breed that's for sure. Never really liked the Mustang II myself, but the rack and pinion is probably the widest used rack in the hotrod/modder community.

As for your spark plug wires. Like I said in the other post, just twist the boot while holding the cable break it loose and slide it down the cable. Spray the cable down with some PB Blaster behind the boot to make sliding it easier.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, at least yours went to someone that could use it. *Mine is probably waiting to get crushed hahahha*. It's nice to have some room back though huh?

O HELLZ NO! I'll find the money to fly out there and get it.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Hey boyos, sorry 'bout the Club being a little dead-ish.

Been so busy at work; my co-worker's on a week-long vacation, so I'm doing two people's work.







Then at home I'm almost out of energy, and all I can really do is spend a bit of time restoring my rig that went down the other week. It's almost all caught up, though, which is good; plus it's Vista on RAID 0 (previously, it was just on one HDD). Took me forever to figure out how to configure the hardware so that it would do RAID... (and this is even with reading so much material.







)

Hopefully I'll have more time to pop in and talk S939 tech with y'alls soon.

I'll say this, though: We'll have a special announcement sometime next week about a change in our Club.










 Which rig is this Joe?

My last 2 jobs I was doing the job of 2 people. Probably why I got paid better than most other parts guys/managers. But the hell with that, I'm going to school now and glad about it too.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Which rig is this Joe?


Darth Raivo, my friend. DFI LP UT nF4 SLI-DR, Opty 170, HD 4870, 2GB Ballistix Tracers, 2 x 150GB WD VRs in RAID 0.









I'm just glad to still HAVE a job. I've lost a few buddies at work when their positions were cut.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Darth Raivo, my friend. DFI LP UT nF4 SLI-DR, Opty 170, HD 4870, 2GB Ballistix Tracers, 2 x 150GB WD VRs in RAID 0.









I'm just glad to still HAVE a job. I've lost a few buddies at work when their positions were cut.










 I'm glad you still have a job too







. What did your buddies do there?

Went back to the SLI-DR eh. Great boards those 939 DFI's are, well with the obvious CFX exception. Although, when mine works right, it works perfect. But when it doesn't, which has been the case lately, it gets rather frustrating. 
I have been seriously thinking of selling my 180 on fleabay (I'd get way more money than here) and getting a lower tier AM3 rig to tie me over until I have the funds for better gear.

PS: Those Raptors in RAID 0 have got to be BLAZING fast.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I'm just glad to still HAVE a job. I've lost a few buddies at work when their positions were cut.










My prayers are in thoughts of your friends.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I'm glad you still have a job too







. What did your buddies do there?


They were part-time staff (I'm full-time). Because of the economy, the City had to do some rather radical things to stay operational. The part-timers were the first to go in most cases because 1) there are a lot of them, and 2) they have less civil service protections extended to them. These friends were from all over the Zoo (animal care; admissions staff; clerical staff; etc.).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Went back to the SLI-DR eh. Great boards those 939 DFI's are, well with the obvious CFX exception. Although, when mine works right, it works perfect. But when it doesn't, which has been the case lately, it gets rather frustrating.


I must be insane, because I'm getting ready to get back into my CFX again. I think the SoCal heat has melted the few brain cells I have left and brained my damage.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I have been seriously thinking of selling my 180 on fleabay (I'd get way more money than here) and getting a lower tier AM3 rig to tie me over until I have the funds for better gear.


Not a bad strategy.







I'm planning for an imminent platform upgrade, actually, with a little bit of help from my brother-in-law. I'm just waiting to amass a good-enough budget. I think I'd rather just make one big leap out of S939 and get as good a new build as possible, instead of making piecemeal upgrades.

I'm absolutely sure I won't be hoarding parts like I have in S939.
















Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


PS: Those Raptors in RAID 0 have got to be BLAZING fast.


RAID 0 by itself, even on a stock-clocked rig, makes the whole machine feel fast.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


O HELLZ NO! I'll find the money to fly out there and get it.


BlackOmega, too late it's gone. Went to cash for clunkers. I have a baby inbound so what's the point of keeping a money pit in my garage haha









Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I'm absolutely sure I won't be hoarding parts like I have in S939.


Joe, are you sure about that


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


They were part-time staff (I'm full-time). Because of the economy, the City had to do some rather radical things to stay operational. The part-timers were the first to go in most cases because 1) there are a lot of them, and 2) they have less civil service protections extended to them. These friends were from all over the Zoo (animal care; admissions staff; clerical staff; etc.).


 Ahh....general employees. You are definitely more expendable when you have less training/skill.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I must be insane, because I'm getting ready to get back into my CFX again. I think the SoCal heat has melted the few brain cells I have left and brained my damage.










 I am ready for your results sir!















:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Not a bad strategy.







I'm planning for an imminent platform upgrade, actually, with a little bit of help from my brother-in-law. I'm just waiting to amass a good-enough budget. I think I'd rather just make one big leap out of S939 and get as good a new build as possible, instead of making piecemeal upgrades.

I'm absolutely sure I won't be hoarding parts like I have in S939.

















Well even my "lower tier" system would still be a decent one. So far I have widdled a 16x/16x CF rig down to $322 shipped. But we'll see how that goes.

As for hoarding parts, I'll probably at least have a spare CPU, probably that $36 single core, for testing purposes.And maybe some cheap mobo too.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


RAID 0 by itself, even on a stock-clocked rig, makes the whole machine feel fast.










 When the funds allow it, I will have at least 2 raptors oh yes, I will. Firefox will open omfgsuperduperfastBBQ then.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, too late it's gone. Went to cash for clunkers. I have a baby inbound so what's the point of keeping a money pit in my garage haha










NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO !


----------



## Hueristic

1. Spring cleaning before winter! My house was so bad I could barely walk through it. Tossed like 20 systems and monitors. That cleared up alot of room. Among tons of other junk. I'm not used to being disabled still and I take on alot of stuff to repair that I could have easily got done in the past and now it's impossible for me.









2. Tileing the kitchen wall. First time I've ever tiled, already screwed up but my dad came up with a good idea and it is tons more work but should look great. Will try to get pics when done.

3. Still working on getting finances worked out, Liveing on no income since 2001 is quite a burden.

4. Cutting. splitting wood and storeing for winter.

5. still trying to repair a 9800gx2 for menthol moose to fold on.

6. Still working on the Jade Monkey Plaque. Got the marble backing finally!

7. Still working on slatted window for inbetween my kitchen and pool room. Got the wrong piano hinge from Home cheapo









8. Testing boards for a giveaway, Had to take a break after getting PO'd and throwing a monitor onto my car.

9. My grandmother is dieing and I've been going to see her as much as possible, tough as I don't drive and no public transportation available.

Well that and when I do sit down I'm usually in too much pain to write posts so I've just been clicking emoticons or one or to word help threads.

Well thats the longest post I've had in awhile, Maybe I should wake up after 4 hours and not be able to get to sleep again more often!









*Well you asked*


----------



## BlackOmega

O man you've definitely got a lot going on over there.

Remember, when you get pissed enough to destroy something that you're working on, it's time for a frustration break.









You never really appreciate your health until its gone. Reminds me of when broke my foot. It made EVERYTHING, even the most menial tasks very difficult.

Sorry to hear about your grandma, it's never easy when a grandparent goes.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
O man you've definitely got a lot going on over there.

Yeah got 4 pieces cut and placed in the last 4 hours.







I suck at tiling.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Remember, when you get pissed enough to destroy something that you're working on, it's time for a frustration break.









You got tdhat right, and my Jag agree's with you.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
You never really appreciate your health until its gone. Reminds me of when broke my foot. It made EVERYTHING, even the most menial tasks very difficult.

2True. Then never teach you in school that when you work hard your whole life and then break from it society throws you away.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Sorry to hear about your grandma, it's never easy when a grandparent goes.

NP, She's OK with it. She'll be 90 in OCT. if she makes it.


----------



## thlnk3r

Hueristic, good luck with everything man.

Guys, I'm really surprised how well my single-core and video card plays DOD:S and Race07. Both games pretty much run at or near _High_ settings. Gotta love Socket 939


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Hueristic, good luck with everything man.











You play DOD source. I has that game.


----------



## Syrillian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


2. Tileing the kitchen wall. First time I've ever tiled, already screwed up but my dad came up with a good idea and it is tons more work but should look great. Will try to get pics when done.


OT and a day late, but if you ever have tiling questions, I may be able to assist you as one of my jobs is in the industry.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Guys, I'm really surprised how well my single-core and video card plays DOD:S and Race07. Both games pretty much run at or near _High_ settings. Gotta love Socket 939



























Quote:



Originally Posted by *Syrillian*


OT and a day late, but if you ever have tiling questions, I may be able to assist you as one of my jobs is in the industry.


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=703661

how is that for an OC?

btw, this is online now and about to install FAH client XD


----------



## mattliston

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Hueristic, good luck with everything man.

Guys, I'm really surprised how well my single-core and video card plays DOD:S and Race07. Both games pretty much run at or near _High_ settings. Gotta love Socket 939









I played crysis demo on lowest settings with my sig rig without overclocking. 24 fps average lol

overclocking got me an extra 2-3 fps on average lol

im on a retail board so I can only boost the fsb by 20 (from 200) and cant really get much out of teh card until I get a better processor/board

Im thinking of staying 939 though, I wanan see if I can eventually get a ncie 939 board with PCI-e and totalyl rape the "top 20 overclockers" board lol


----------



## GuardianOdin

hey guys, sorry I haven't been around much. I have a new and very time consuming project....a 95 Jeep Cherokee rebuild! I may end up posting in my blog as I work on it.

on the 939 side of things, I have the Opty 170 installed as I said in an earlier post. I lost all my papers for my RAM timings







I have an idea of where they are suppose to be. So a little more tweaking and she'll be right as rain. Once those are set in the way I likes'em. I'll start testing the 170 OC. So far I hit 2.95Ghz but not S&M stable. Anyway welcome new members! and I'll be back every so often to ramble on


----------



## OSDCrusher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Hey boyos, sorry 'bout the Club being a little dead-ish.

Been so busy at work; my co-worker's on a week-long vacation, so I'm doing two people's work.







Then at home I'm almost out of energy, and all I can really do is spend a bit of time restoring my rig that went down the other week. It's almost all caught up, though, which is good; plus it's Vista on RAID 0 (previously, it was just on one HDD). Took me forever to figure out how to configure the hardware so that it would do RAID... (and this is even with reading so much material.







)

Hopefully I'll have more time to pop in and talk S939 tech with y'alls soon.

I'll say this, though: We'll have a special announcement sometime next week about a change in our Club.










Which computer went down?


----------



## mattliston

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


hey guys, sorry I haven't been around much. I have a new and very time consuming project....a 95 Jeep Cherokee rebuild! I may end up posting in my blog as I work on it.

on the 939 side of things, I have the Opty 170 installed as I said in an earlier post. I lost all my papers for my RAM timings







I have an idea of where they are suppose to be. So a little more tweaking and she'll be right as rain. Once those are set in the way I likes'em. I'll start testing the 170 OC. So far I hit 2.95Ghz but not S&M stable. Anyway welcome new members! and I'll be back every so often to ramble on


the chrysler straight six is friggin awesome. skip rebuild, do a single turbo and a supercharger, twin charged FTW


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Fezzik!

I mean, G.O.!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OSDCrusher*


Which computer went down?


My erstwhile sig rig, Darth Raivo.

It's almost fully-restored, and now rocking with RAID 0 again! I've tried three different configs on this this machine now: RAID 0 on WinXP; single VR on Vista 64-bit; and now RAID 0 on Vista 64-bit.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Fezzik!

I mean, G.O.!


Would you like a peanut? lol

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mattliston*


the chrysler straight six is friggin awesome. skip rebuild, do a single turbo and a supercharger, twin charged FTW










lol, yes that engine is a beast. They last forever. Body/suspension and steering first, then the engine/trans.







Mud and snow!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary*


how is that for an OC?

btw, this is online now and about to install FAH client XD


BigpoppaFrary, looking good so for buddy









Pretty decent OC on stock voltage. I've updated the roster with your new overclock.

Good luck


----------



## mattliston

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Would you like a peanut? lol

lol, yes that engine is a beast. They last forever. Body/suspension and steering first, then the engine/trans.







Mud and snow!


well it definitely shines with a supercharger. buddy had that motor in a jeep, lasted 6 years of pure abuse. sure we took care of it, regular fluid changes, bearings were checked once a month, etc..

but very impressive form an american company. another surprise is teh 3800 v6 they shove into the buicks and pontiacs and oldsmobiles. now they have twin turbo kits, suspension, etc..

lol

back to computers. I have completed my custom cooling solution for my geforce 6600!! is a big ass celeron heatsink and fan, with ebay ram heat sinks

instead of 33-34 idel and 76 load while overclocked, it idles at 32 and loads at 66. success!!

finally got a BIOS with ram timings unlocked, sadlyh, no CPU OC'ing available, unless you guys wanna take a look at my current BIOS. does this forum allow bin files as attachments?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

mattliston, it appears that .bin files aren't allowed as attachments here on OCN.

Big bummer that your board won't allow changes to the reference clock (which means no OCing). Have you considered picking up a used S939 motherboard?

I might have a motherboard available for you, if you're interested. PM me for details.


----------



## mattliston

I dont have any money lol spent the last extra on a 7900gt

unless you wanna trade my board for yous, mine has 4 ram slots, but only 2 work, otherwise its perfect

I can overclock by upping teh fsb to 220 with clockgen, no higher. I can underclock it also. if only I could add a bit of voltage and raise the fsb to like 300, it would be cool


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mattliston*


I dont have any money lol spent the last extra on a 7900gt

unless you wanna trade my board for yous, mine has 4 ram slots, but only 2 work, otherwise its perfect

I can overclock by upping teh fsb to 220 with clockgen, no higher. I can underclock it also. if only I could add a bit of voltage and raise the fsb to like 300, it would be cool


mattliston, you are brave.







Clockgen is a dangerous way to OC.







But I kinda understand why you do it.

Hehe, gotta nix the trade offer; I'm actually trying to thin my collection of S939 parts. Of course, if you need anything, let me know. I might have something for you.


----------



## Blitz6804

Would not you be able to put the BIN in a ZIP, and then attach the ZIP to the post?


----------



## mattliston

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Would not you be able to put the BIN in a ZIP, and then attach the ZIP to the post?

good point, I will try that


----------



## mattliston

http://rapidshare.com/files/278834014/CURRENTbios.zip

link to zipped BIOS, this is the one that came on my computer and was created using winflash (latest version)


----------



## GuardianOdin

Having brain farts guys

Here is my RAM (*Mushkin XP4000 2x1GB RedLine*) timings

Opty 170 2.9Ghz with a 10x

Dram Frequency 180
Command rate T1
CAS = 03
Trcd = 03
Tras = 05
Trp = 03
Trc = 07
Trfc = 15
Trrd = 02
Twr = 03
Twtr = 01
Trwt = 4
Tref = 4708
Twcl = Auto
Dram Bank = Enable

DQS=Auto
DQS=0
DRAM drive strength=3
DRAM Data drive strength=3
Max Async=8
DRAM response Time= Normal
Read Preamble=06
Idle Cycle=256
Dynamic Counter=Disable
R/W Queue Bypass=8x
32 Byte=Disable(4 bursts)

I run Orthos and get about 4-5 seconds into with errors and the same with OCCT

Take a gander at the timings and see what is a bit to tight. Been at it for 4 hours and my eyes are tired.


----------



## thlnk3r

GuardianOdin, maybe I don't see it listed but what is your command rate?


----------



## mattliston

I could be wrong, but Twtr = 01, shouldnt that be a 2? Trc = 07 should be 8

I was just messing around with my ram and these two timings refused to be changed and stay stable. maybe its just m,y ram (corsair value 512x2)


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
GuardianOdin, maybe I don't see it listed but what is your command rate?

oops, T1

funny enough it will bench 3D Mark 06 just fine, run SuperPi 1Mb

I'll be back in a few hours, I have to be up at 8am and it's 4am now.....blah


----------



## nategr8ns

Hey guys, school is just too busy for me to be on OCN much. Maybe if I drop AP US History and get a study hall... AP US won't be useful to me at all, but they wouldn't let me take AP Calc yet :swearing:.


----------



## Blitz6804

One advantage of AP US History Nate: you might not need to take US history in College. (My college required 2 semesters of history and one of philosophy, or the other way around. AP Western Civ or AP US History would cover the requirement of History 11/12 (US History 1/2) or History 3/4 (Western Civ 1/2). One less class in college is always a cool thing.

GuardianOdin: Your tRAS appears to be a fuzz tight. The spec for Mushkin redlines are 8 rather than your current 5. Your tRC also appears to be too tight. With tRAS being 8 and tRP being 3, you would expect a tRC of 11. Your tRFC is a little loose at 15 (can be as tight as 13 with the numbers above) but that would only help stability at the expense of bandwidth, so I would leave that alone for now. I personally never had much luck with it, but have you tried loosening your max Async any? I know Poser had a lot of luck with that on his DFI in unlocking insane RAM speeds. (I think my board was either 7 or 11; not sure.)

EDIT: Silly question. While your CPU is 2900 MHz (10x290) and I presume your RAM is at DDR-483 (given the 180 divider*), what is your HyperTransport set to? If 4x, that would be 1160 MHz, which SHOULD be okay. If 5x (1450 MHz) you are likely going to have problems. You also remembered to set the RAM to 2.8 V right?

*I thought the divider was 183, meaning you would be running DDR-527.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


One advantage of AP US History Nate: you might not need to take US history in College. (My college required 2 semesters of history and one of philosophy, or the other way around. AP Western Civ or AP US History would cover the requirement of History 11/12 (US History 1/2) or History 3/4 (Western Civ 1/2). One less class in college is always a cool thing.

GuardianOdin: Your tRAS appears to be a fuzz tight. The spec for Mushkin redlines are 8 rather than your current 5. Your tRC also appears to be too tight. With tRAS being 8 and tRP being 3, you would expect a tRC of 11. Your tRFC is a little loose at 15 (can be as tight as 13 with the numbers above) but that would only help stability at the expense of bandwidth, so I would leave that alone for now. I personally never had much luck with it, but have you tried loosening your max Async any? I know Poser had a lot of luck with that on his DFI in unlocking insane RAM speeds. (I think my board was either 7 or 11; not sure.)

EDIT: Silly question. While your CPU is 2900 MHz (10x290) and I presume your RAM is at DDR-483 (given the 180 divider*), what is your HyperTransport set to? If 4x, that would be 1160 MHz, which SHOULD be okay. If 5x (1450 MHz) you are likely going to have problems. You also remembered to set the RAM to 2.8 V right?

*I thought the divider was 183, meaning you would be running DDR-527.


Thanks Blitz, going to give these a go. My HT is set to 3 right now and my RAM is at 2.7V


----------



## Blitz6804

The Mushkin Redlines call for 2.8-2.9 V for DDR-500 @ 3-3-2-8-1T if I remember right. *Looks it up.* Okay, Muskin says 2.6 - 2.9 V.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


The Mushkin Redlines call for 2.8-2.9 V for DDR-500 @ 3-3-2-8-1T if I remember right. *Looks it up.* Okay, Muskin says 2.6 - 2.9 V.


If I take it to 2.8 it blue screens. The silly RAM like the lower V









brb testing


----------



## Blitz6804

How is case air flow? Have you felt the DIMM heatspreaders to see if they are uncomfortably warm while in operation?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


How is case air flow? Have you felt the DIMM heatspreaders to see if they are uncomfortably warm while in operation?


Case flow is pretty good. I have the case temp wire directly on the RAM heatsinks and it is currently 27c

Ok, running at 260 x10 or 2.6Ghz with the RAM set 1:1 and it pass 10 minutes in Orthos. I'm going to try 270 x 10 or 2.7Ghz brb

*EDIT:*

Running DDR 540 now, going to test Orthos now.


----------



## Blitz6804

If I were you, I would try standard 200x10 with the DDR-500 divider. Then set tWCL and tREF to auto. Make note of their values at DDR-500. Then try the divider you actually want and manually set it to the values given by the SPD when DDR-500. (In fact, I would do this with all timings. I have, in fact, did this with my present DFI board and RAM.)

It is also possible that the RAM just does not like the 180/183 divider, in which case, you might need to experiment with the 166 divider. It is certainly possible. (The G.Skill I have now simply will not POST with DDR2-667. Period. End of story. This is the case with my set, Pez's set, and The_Gamer294's two sets.)


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


If I were you, I would try standard 200x10 with the DDR-500 divider. Then set tWCL and tREF to auto. Make note of their values at DDR-500. Then try the divider you actually want and manually set it to the values given by the SPD when DDR-500. (In fact, I would do this with all timings. I have, in fact, did this with my present DFI board and RAM.)

It is also possible that the RAM just does not like the 180/183 divider, in which case, you might need to experiment with the 166 divider. It is certainly possible. (The G.Skill I have now simply will not POST with DDR2-667. Period. End of story. This is the case with my set, Pez's set, and The_Gamer294's two sets.)


ok, gonna try that now.

At 2.7Ghz and RAM at DDR540 I get this in Orthos a few seconds after start.

Quote:



Type: Blend - stress CPU and RAM Min: 8 Max: 4096 InPlace: No Mem: 1790 Time: 15
CPU: 2700MHz FSB: 194MHz [207MHz x 13.0 est.]
9/12/2009 11:43 AM 
Launching 2 threads...
Using CPU #0
Beginning a continuous self-test to check your computer.
Press Stop to end this test.
Test 1, 4000 Lucas-Lehmer iterations of M19922945 using 1024K FFT length.
FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0.4999958221, expected less than 0.4
Hardware failure detected, consult stress.txt file.
Torture Test ran 0 minutes 3 seconds - 1 errors, 0 warnings.
Execution halted.


----------



## Blitz6804

At DDR-540, try running Orthos at 3-4-4-12 and see what happens. If it fails again, try the RAM in the other two slots.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


At DDR-540, try running Orthos at 3-4-4-12 and see what happens. If it fails again, try the RAM in the other two slots.


Actually I think the Orthos I have is funked.I'm getting goofy error at completely stock speeds. I'm going to go get a fresh version and see if that continues.

*EDIT*

Orthos downloaded and odd errors stopped.

going to try those settings now

*EDIT*

Ok, tried those timings Blitz

and a no go. 4.59 mins into Orthos

I think the is issue is in the subtimings, just a gut feeling


----------



## Blitz6804

Oh no doubt. Have you tried setting it to DDR-500 with a 200 MHz reference clock, setting everything to Auto, and then fixing those values before attempting a DDR-400 divider with a 250 MHz reference clock? That is, you are using the SPD values for DDR-500, but not with a DDR-500 divider.

Else, if you have it set to DDR-400 divider and HTT up so as to make DDR-500, the "Auto" timings could be wrong.

(Apologies if I am not making sense, these law books are scrambling my brain worse than it usually is. Furthermore, the neurosurgeon I saw yesterday says my brain could still be a little iffy another six months from the concussion I had.)


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Oh no doubt. Have you tried setting it to DDR-500 with a 200 MHz reference clock, setting everything to Auto, and then fixing those values before attempting a DDR-400 divider with a 250 MHz reference clock? That is, you are using the SPD values for DDR-500, but not with a DDR-500 divider.

Else, if you have it set to DDR-400 divider and HTT up so as to make DDR-500, the "Auto" timings could be wrong.

(Apologies if I am not making sense, these law books are scrambling my brain worse than it usually is. Furthermore, the neurosurgeon I saw yesterday says my brain could still be a little iffy another six months from the concussion I had.)

No worries Blitz,

These DFI boards are just a pain to set correctly. So damn touchy.

To answer your question

yes and no. I was able to get 10 minutes in Orthos at 2.60Ghz with the RAM set 1 to 1 or 1:1. BUT I have not tried any AUTO settings.

I'll give that a go right now.

The thing is, I am running the exact same RAM timings I had with My Opty 165 on a 9 multiplier at 3Ghz I believe the speed was DDR500 even. LOL I'm sure I goofed the subtimings up as I can not for the life of me find the sheet of paper I had it written down on. :swearing:

I need a freaking notebook

*EDIT*

Here are some pages I have been looking at with similar timings you might want to look at. They helped a bunch last time I was tweaking my RAM.

DFI LANParty NF4 SLI-DR and (#991493) Mushkin XP4000 2x1GB

DFI Expert and (991483) 2GB Mushkin eXtreme

Rev 'em to 287! -> 2GB Mushkin Redline PC4000 on Infineon CE-5 OCing Report!!!

Ok, bit more stable. I'll have to run an 8 hour later on as I need my PC right now and THANKS Blitz!


----------



## Blitz6804

Again, to me, your tRAS seems to be too tight. However, if it works...

When running DDR-500, that RAM is rated to have a tRP of 2. You could try tightening it down, but I do not think you will find too big of improvement there.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Again, to me, your tRAS seems to be too tight. However, if it works...

When running DDR-500, that RAM is rated to have a tRP of 2. You could try tightening it down, but I do not think you will find too big of improvement there.


I plan on more adjusting, just right now I'm working on some Illustrations and need to wait until tomorrow.


----------



## OSDCrusher

With my socket 939 motherboard, I leave all the RAM timings on AUTO but I lowered the speed from DDR 400 to DDR 333.


----------



## Blitz6804

The problem with doing that OSDCrusher is that if you check the CPU-Z memory tab versus the CPU-Z SPD tab, it likely loads the defaults for the DDR-333 divider. If you do this with a non-200 reference clock, it may result in RAM that is too tight for its current speed.


----------



## OSDCrusher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


The problem with doing that OSDCrusher is that if you check the CPU-Z memory tab versus the CPU-Z SPD tab, it likely loads the defaults for the DDR-333 divider. If you do this with a non-200 reference clock, it may result in RAM that is too tight for its current speed.


----------



## Blitz6804

Okay, let us assume a fairly-typical ValueRam scenario. At DDR-400, it should be ran at 3-4-4-8. At DDR-333, it should be ran at 2.5-3-3-6.

If you set your divider on a 4400+ to DDR-333 while with a 200 MHz HTT, this presents no problems, as the RAM is actually running at DDR-333, 2.5-3-3-6 as it should.

Now lets say you take your 4400+ and increase the HTT to 255 MHz. The CPU is now running at 2805 MHz and the RAM will be at DDR-400. However, instead of running at 3-4-4-8 as it should be for DDR-400, it is instead running at 2.5-3-3-6. This could cause stability issues.

Does that make my example clearer?


----------



## OSDCrusher

I don't have a 4400+, I have an Opteron [email protected] 2.90 GHz. I don't care about my RAM timings because the system is 15 hour Prime 95 stable.


----------



## Blitz6804

I just grabbed a hypothetical 4400+ for my example. (I could have used any 939 CPU and it would be just as valid.) Also, for the record, an Opteron 175 and my former Athlon64 x2 4400+ are identical in all things but name. They both have 1024 KB of cache, an 11x multiplier, and many other similarities. The only difference between the two is purely nominal, id est, the opteron is called a Denmark, and mine a Toledo.


----------



## OSDCrusher

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I just grabbed a hypothetical 4400+ for my example. (I could have used any 939 CPU and it would be just as valid.) Also, for the record, your Opteron 185 and my former Athlon64 x2 4400+ are identical in all things but name. They both have 1024 KB of cache, an 11x multiplier, and many other similarities. The only difference between the two is purely nominal, id est, yours is called a Denmark, and mine a Toledo.

(Heck, they are both capable of 3.0 GHz operation, but mine did not need 1.672 V to do it.)

Your wrong. The 185 has an x13 multiplier and the CPU-Z reading is wrong. I used 1.45 V in the BIOS.


----------



## Blitz6804

Oops, I was thinking you said 175 even though I read 185. See prior statement about fried brains.


----------



## BlackOmega

Hey fellaz I could use some input about an AM3 combo I'm planning on getting.

I've found a 945/Gigabyte UD4P/2x2gb OCZ plat. (DDR3 1600 CAS:7) For $357 shipped, you guys think thats worth it?


----------



## Blitz6804

That sounds like a deal to me; that is about what I paid for my Brisbane, motherboard, and DDR2.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hey fellaz I could use some input about an AM3 combo I'm planning on getting.

I've found a 945/Gigabyte UD4P/2x2gb OCZ plat. (DDR3 1600 CAS:7) For $357 shipped, you guys think thats worth it?


Most likely.

What voltage are the OCZs?

Some of the older high volt kits don't do DDR1333 with Cas 6. Which isn't bad, but it's kinda what you want.

Also, what wattage is the 945? They have a 125watt and a 95watt version.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Also, what wattage is the 945? They have a 125watt and a 95watt version.


Tator, I know the 95watt version is the updated 945 but do you know if it also has a revised IMC?


----------



## Blitz6804

Something I wondered but did not know the answer to:

939 CPUs can use a maximum of a 333 divider when all four slots are populated (instead of 400)
AM2+ CPUs can use a maximum of an 800 divider when all four slots are populated (instead of 1066)
are AM3 CPUs limited to 1066 instead of 1333 when all four are populated?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Most likely.

What voltage are the OCZs?

Some of the older high volt kits don't do DDR1333 with Cas 6. Which isn't bad, but it's kinda what you want.

Also, what wattage is the 945? They have a 125watt and a 95watt version.

The 945 is the 95w version and the OCZ are 1.9V. Kinda high for my taste but they're cheap, $85 for 4GB.

BTW, there's also a $15 rebate to make the deal a little sweeter. And for $20 more I can get the 955BE.

I wonder if I should get the 945 or the 955.....


----------



## Blitz6804

I PERSONALLY think the unlocked multiplier is an unneeded luxury most of the time. In my experience, my PhII x4 940 will overclock higher with a lower multiplier with less voltage. 15x240 requires 1.410 V to be stable, but 13x280 (1% faster) needs only 1.380 V (2% less). Lower voltage of course equates to lower heat. I would try clocking it further, but my RAM is holding me back.

Sure, it is nice when you first drop the CPU in to increase the multiplier a few times for a quick speed burst, but when you actually have the time to work out the numbers, the lower multiplier will yield the best bet.


----------



## BlackOmega

Yeah unlocked multi's have never been anything that I was concerned about, well unless the multi is really low then you need to have a good board.

Well now I've got a dilemma. 2 combos from 2 different places. Which would you pick?
945/DFI 790FBX-M3H5/4 GB G.Skill cas:9 1.6v OR 945/GB 790XT-UD4P/OCZ Plat. cas:7 1.9v?


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz, you can still run 4 DIMMs at ddr2-1066 on a AM2+ board...it's just very very difficult to get it going and a lot of tuning/tweaking is required. I just usually suggest not doing it at all. The motherboard manufacture websites also advertise it not working.


----------



## Blitz6804

Thlnk3r: You can run it at DDR2-1066 certainly, but supposedly, 4x 2 GB does not permit you to use the DDR2-1066 divider.

BlackOmega: I hear a lot of good things about Gigabyte these days, I would chose the Gigabyte over the DFI unless you need the layout of PCI/PCIe slots found on the DFI. Furthermore, the DDR3 CL 7 is nice. However, I hear some sketchy things about OCZ with AMD IMCs. This could just be limited to the DDR2 realm. (Their DDR2-1150 is known to work fine with Intel, but most AMD boards cannot get it to that speed.)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Thlnk3r: You can run it at DDR2-1066 certainly, but supposedly, 4x 2 GB does not permit you to use the DDR2-1066 divider.

Blitz, I believe it's a IMC limitation...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Not that I have a lot of practical experience (meaning to say, ZERO as of this time) with the new gen AMD boards, but from what I've read most of the boards out today, including 790-series chipset boards, don't really scale their HT clocks all that much. From what I've seen, they can get up to maybe 250MHz; anything more than that is extremely unlikely. Just speaking for myself, this makes a Black Edition chip more attractive. I think the days are gone when you can get a chip like an Opteron 165 (or even a 170) with its 9x multiplier, pair it with a board that can get around 340-350MHz on its reference clock, and get to the 3.0GHz "Promised Land."

Having said that, stock clock speeds for AMDs are at or above 3.0GHz anyway, which might sort of explain why the motherboards don't actually need to go far above 250MHz.

By and large, I think it's actually far easier to overclock with today's parts, compared to S939 and older parts.


----------



## Blitz6804

340-350 MHz is, for many boards, a far-off dream. However, many boards, as you say, can easily push 250 MHz. In the case of a PhII x4 945, that would give you a 3.75 GHz CPU. My particular board permits me to go up to at least 280 MHz. I have tested that far up, but no further, given my memory limitation. (Anything over 270 MHz requires me to run my RAM on the DDR2-533 divider. However, 270 MHz runs quite happily with a 13x multiplier and the DDR2-800 divider.) The PhII x4 955 is nice in that you can spend $20 more on the CPU and perhaps save $50 on the motherboard, but personally, I think it is better to get the better motherboard if possible.


----------



## BlackOmega

Blitz, why would you prefer the GB over the DFI?

It seems they have similar layouts including the floppy connector. The main difference is that the DFI is 16x/16x where as the GB is 8x/8x. So that makes me lean towards the DFI a little bit more. 
But that poses another question, would my 4870's really saturate 8x slots? Is there really a need for the 16x slots? Do you think there would be any performance difference?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


...The main difference is that the DFI is 16x/16x where as the GB is 8x/8x. ...










Ohh no you didn't!


----------



## Blitz6804

I was only going for reputation for build quality and overclockability as of late. For most people, 16x/16x could be overkill. Nice to have? Yep. Necessary? Probably not. Remember, if you get a PCIe 2.0 8x/8x board, you are making a lateral move from your PCIe 1.0 16x/16x. (As we have discussed many a time in here as Hue seems to be worried we will spark another debate over it.)


----------



## BlackOmega

I know we've discussed it several times, but my main concern is saturation of the lane. Would an 8x PCIe 2.0 lane get saturated by one of my 4870's? I read somewhere the other day that the 5890's will saturate the PCIe lane, but I can't for the life of me remember if it was 8x or 16x that they were referring to.


----------



## Blitz6804

The 5870 is slightly faster than a 4870x2 if I remember right. I could test for you my HD 4870x2s in 8x/8x and 16x/16x if it will help your purchase any.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


The 5870 is slightly faster than a 4870x2 if I remember right. I could test for you my HD 4870x2s in 8x/8x and 16x/16x if it will help your purchase any.


 That would be really awesome if you could. I appreciate your help Blitz


----------



## Blitz6804

Alright BlackOmega. I am now on my laptop. My desktop is running 3 passes of 3DMark06 @ 1920x1200, 8xAA. Afterwards, I will put it to hibernate (so in theory, the services will be the same) change it to 8x/8x, and run it again.

We shall see what happens.


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

My onboard audio on my A8N-E keeps messing up... When i turn the computer on the sound works just fine. Use it to play sound or what have you. then after some time goes by the drivers or something just stops working.

Say i'm listening to music i can continue to do so but can't open volume control because it says there is no mixer present.


----------



## Blitz6804

Try reducing the HTT a fuzz and see if it stops doing that.


----------



## Blitz6804

Well BlackOmega, I have bad news. No matter what I tell my BIOS to be (PCIe 2.0 16x, PCIe 1.0 16x, PCIe 2.0 8x, and PCIe 1.0 2x were all tried) it shows as PCIe 2.0 16x in Windows. That is, it is as if the switches in the BIOS do nothing.


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

i changed the htt to 3x instead of 4x. i hope this fixes it.


----------



## Blitz6804

Not hypertransport BigpoppaFrary, but your HTT. The AMD equivalent of FSB. That is, try reducing your HTT from 240 to 235 and see if the problem goes away.


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

oh ok, do you think my OC is unstable? it shouldn't be for my chip right?


----------



## Blitz6804

Your chip, no. Your motherboard, maybe. The A8N-E is not well-known for being a great overclocker. It is possible that in overclocking the HTT, you are inadvertently overclocking the sound chip, thereby causing instability on the same.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Well BlackOmega, I have bad news. No matter what I tell my BIOS to be (PCIe 2.0 16x, PCIe 1.0 16x, PCIe 2.0 8x, and PCIe 1.0 2x were all tried) it shows as PCIe 2.0 16x in Windows. That is, it is as if the switches in the BIOS do nothing.


 Well that's unfortunate, but at any rate I think I've made up my mind as to which set up to get. 
I've decided to go with 955BE/MSI GD70/2GB of.......G.skill I think. I was thinking that since I'm going to be running XP there is no need for me to have 4GB installed if I'm running 2 1GB cards. Thus saving me $35+ on a 4GB kit, and then I can sit and wait around for a good kit to go on sale. It'll still be ~$30 more than I wanted to spend but the mobo and CPU will be better and more overclocker friendly.

Regarding 939's, I'm slowly but surely gathering the stuff I need for my 939 hackintosh; found the OS install disk and such.
Does anyone know what the RAM limit is for OSX? Also, what about video/audio/ethernet drivers?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Not a bad upgrade plan, Omega Supreme.









I am quite fond of that MSI 790FX-GD70; if motherboards were judged just on looks alone, this one wins hands down every single time. That's also one of two boards I'm considering for my AM3 build. (The other one is the Gigabyte GA-MA790FXT-UD5P.)

I've pretty much convinced myself that this next platform upgrade will be my first and last one for at least two years, preferably longer. With a quad-core CPU, 4GB of RAM, and Windows 7, as well as the state of affairs as far as games go (games will likely be the most demanding software this rig will run anyway), the only upgrades that *might* be necessary is to the video card. But even then, this is debatable.


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

aw damn, Maybe i should try a different set up to try to max this board? Is there a way to lock those kind of things?

I have my pci-x/pci slots locked to 100/33 respectably. HT is at 3x
here is my cpu-z...
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=711825


----------



## Blitz6804

Try running that for a while, see if your sound still cuts out. If so, it might perhaps be a driver issue.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Not a bad upgrade plan, Omega Supreme.









I am quite fond of that MSI 790FX-GD70; if motherboards were judged just on looks alone, this one wins hands down every single time. That's also one of two boards I'm considering for my AM3 build. (The other one is the Gigabyte GA-MA790FXT-UD5P.)

I've pretty much convinced myself that this next platform upgrade will be my first and last one for at least two years, preferably longer. With a quad-core CPU, 4GB of RAM, and Windows 7, as well as the state of affairs as far as games go (games will likely be the most demanding software this rig will run anyway), the only upgrades that *might* be necessary is to the video card. But even then, this is debatable.



I'm hoping the same thing. With the possible exception being, as you mentioned, GPU's.

When the Am3 boards first came out, my "favorite" at the time was the UD5P, however it has 3 of those PCIex1 slots that are pretty mush useless for me. The GD70 has nice full size slots and a bunch of PCI slots to complement it. I read a review about it earlier and needless to say clock for clock it did very well. And yeah it is a good looking motherboard that is for sure. Another bonus is it has that huge heat sink over the MOSFETs and good cooling for the NB/SB.
I also decided to go with the 955BE simply for the unlocked multiplier, well that and its 200MHz faster. If the AM3 boards were able to even remotely come close to what our 939 boards are capable of then I probably wouldn't go this route.


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

seems to be working good for now.

But are you telling me that 235 is my fsb for my motherboard? Are you sure it isn't my ram being overclocked to 240 that is giving me those errors after a while?

I'd really like to push this chip but ...2.35 isn't really a push. More of a nudge.


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I'm hoping the same thing. With the possible exception being, as you mentioned, GPU's.

When the Am3 boards first came out, my "favorite" at the time was the UD5P, however it has 3 of those PCIex1 slots that are pretty mush useless for me. The GD70 has nice full size slots and a bunch of PCI slots to complement it. I read a review about it earlier and needless to say clock for clock it did very well. And yeah it is a good looking motherboard that is for sure. Another bonus is it has that huge heat sink over the MOSFETs and good cooling for the NB/SB.
I also decided to go with the 955BE simply for the unlocked multiplier, well that and its 200MHz faster. If the AM3 boards were able to even remotely come close to what our 939 boards are capable of then I probably wouldn't go this route.


SO you are upgrading? =P whats gonna become of your chip and mobo? where in michigan do you reside?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Does anyone know what the RAM limit is for OSX?


BlackOmega, to shed some light on this question I believe the 32-bit version is 4GB and the 64-bit version is capped at 16GB's. Maybe a Mac guru can pop in and provide a more accurate answer. I haven't used a Mac since system 7.5.1









Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


the only upgrades that *might* be necessary is to the video card. But even then, this is debatable.


Joe, same here but the 58xx series sounds really gooooood. I hate the bandwagon....

BigpoppaFrary, how much testing did you do for your previous overclock? I think Blitz might be right about a driver issue.

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary* 
SO you are upgrading? =P whats gonna become of your chip and mobo? where in michigan do you reside?









Well so far here is what I have planned: Sell my Opty 180 on fleabay as I can still fetch a pretty penny for it there. More than likely sell my CFX3200 (it's got some issues, but not too bad).
My 3800x2/DFI Ultra-D/4 GB Corsair will be for the wife's hackintosh.
The naked 3500+/DFI Ultra-D/2GB Kington + 2 GSO's will probably keep on folding. Although the wife is getting pretty pissed at me for having my folding rigs running 24/7. It increases the ambient temp of the upstairs by 30*F. And then when I turn on my sig rig, forget about it, it like a freakin sauna.

Then again I might part out my folding rigs as well. Still not quite sure.

I'm in the Ann Arbor area, BTW.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, to shed some light on this question I believe the 32-bit version is 4GB and the 64-bit version is capped at 16GB's. Maybe a Mac guru can pop in and provide a more accurate answer. I haven't used a Mac since system 7.5.1









Thanks for that thlnk3r. Looks like I need to do some research about Mac's in general to see what type of hardware they used, and if whatever apple uses for drivers will pose any problems.


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

My problem is still ongoing. I backed down my oc a little bit and my HT and after a while my onboard audio kind of "shuts off" or at least the drivers do.

But i can go into the asus sound manger thing and i can still do speaker test and it works.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary* 
My problem is still ongoing. I backed down my oc a little bit and my HT and after a while my onboard audio kind of "shuts off" or at least the drivers do.

But i can go into the asus sound manger thing and i can still do speaker test and it works. ***?

BigpoppaFrary, are you capable of testing a different driver? Perhaps a older version?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Not a bad upgrade plan, Omega Supreme.









I am quite fond of that MSI 790FX-GD70; if motherboards were judged just on looks alone, this one wins hands down every single time. That's also one of two boards I'm considering for my AM3 build. (The other one is the Gigabyte GA-MA790FXT-UD5P.)

I've pretty much convinced myself that this next platform upgrade will be my first and last one for at least two years, preferably longer. With a quad-core CPU, 4GB of RAM, and Windows 7, as well as the state of affairs as far as games go (games will likely be the most demanding software this rig will run anyway), the only upgrades that *might* be necessary is to the video card. But even then, this is debatable.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I'm hoping the same thing. With the possible exception being, as you mentioned, GPU's.

When the Am3 boards first came out, my "favorite" at the time was the UD5P, however it has 3 of those PCIex1 slots that are pretty mush useless for me. The GD70 has nice full size slots and a bunch of PCI slots to complement it. I read a review about it earlier and needless to say clock for clock it did very well. And yeah it is a good looking motherboard that is for sure. Another bonus is it has that huge heat sink over the MOSFETs and good cooling for the NB/SB.
I also decided to go with the 955BE simply for the unlocked multiplier, well that and its 200MHz faster. If the AM3 boards were able to even remotely come close to what our 939 boards are capable of then I probably wouldn't go this route.


From experience with all the major AM3 790FX boards besides the DFI I can say go for the UD5P. Probably the best board I have ever had the chance to work with in awhile.

Unless you really need the extra PCIe slots.

MSI still doesn't have me convinced they are out of their bargain bin ways, seeing as the Customer Service/RMA department is still not backing up the engineering teams in company excellence.

Also BO, I would get the 945 95watt or the 965 125watt (when it drops) they are both made with a newer NB revision that gets higher clocks.

945 is harder to overclock because it's just the HT clock instead of an unlocked multi at your disposal.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, to shed some light on this question I believe the 32-bit version is 4GB and the 64-bit version is capped at 16GB's.


Completely right


----------



## thlnk3r

Tator, perhaps I forgot to ask this in a previous conversation but what was the highest HT clock (reference clock speed) you were able to achieve on the UD5P? Joe has a good point about some of these AM3 boards. I hardly see any crazy high speeds (ie.300Mhz)


----------



## Blitz6804

BigpoppaFrary: I did not even notice your RAM was running at DDR-480;that is a good point. If it is still acting up at 10x235, put it back to 10x240 and this time try the 333 RAM:CPU divider (166:200, 5:6, 0.83:2) whatever it is called in your case). This should yield DDR-400. Also, try reducing your CAS latency to 3.0 instead of 2.5.

I have the same problem as you describe even at stock speeds while in Vista. (Unless there is a constant stream of sound, it may cut off completely until such time that I change X-Fi modes, akin to restarting the driver, at which point it comes back.) This is because I am using the Daniel K drivers, and there are a bit flawwed, so again, a driver reinstall might not be a bad idea.


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz, I didn't even notice his memory was overclocked either (235Mhz)









My apologizes BigpoppaFrary


----------



## shadow_419

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Tator, perhaps I forgot to ask this in a previous conversation but what was the highest HT clock (reference clock speed) you were able to achieve on the UD5P? Joe has a good point about some of these AM3 boards. I hardly see any crazy high speeds (ie.300Mhz)









Not trying to ninja anyone but, the biggest reason for the lower ref clocks are the higher overall multipliers the newer cpu's have. High ref clocks (300+) are still possible just not really needed.

http://www.overclock.net/7191753-post13.html


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
From experience with all the major AM3 790FX boards besides the DFI I can say go for the UD5P. Probably the best board I have ever had the chance to work with in awhile.

Unless you really need the extra PCIe slots.

MSI still doesn't have me convinced they are out of their bargain bin ways, seeing as the Customer Service/RMA department is still not backing up the engineering teams in company excellence.

Also BO, I would get the 945 95watt or the 965 125watt (when it drops) they are both made with a newer NB revision that gets higher clocks.

945 is harder to overclock because it's just the HT clock instead of an unlocked multi at your disposal.

So the 955BE isn't a newer revision? Meaning that it wouldn't OC as well as the 945(95w)/965(125w)?

Also, from what I've read about the GD70, it easily attained a 270 reference clock, which even with a 945 would be at the 4GHz range.
The 945 would be more realistic for me to get as the 965 would put me way over budget which I've increased to $400.

I've also decided to go with the MSI simply because it has more usable slots for me. PCIex1 slots are completely uselss, for me anyway. And I figure, if I slow my gaming down, it has 4 full PCIe slots and I could set up 1 hell of a folding rig.
Also the layout and cooling seems to be beefier on the MSI as opposed to the UD5P.

Unless you can convince me otherwise, I'll probably get the MSI.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Tator, perhaps I forgot to ask this in a previous conversation but what was the highest HT clock (reference clock speed) you were able to achieve on the UD5P? Joe has a good point about some of these AM3 boards. I hardly see any crazy high speeds (ie.300Mhz)









Because of the Phenom lines high multi's and higher HT link they can't pull off as fast HT Clocks (reference clocks/FSB/base clock)

But I've taken a 945 95watt to 3.98ghz (265x15). That's a pretty intense overclock from a nice cherry picked chip.

But 3.8 is pretty obtainable on most chips. Some Dice runs have gotten 300x15 for 4.5ghz. You could potentially do that on water as well. Again, that was on the UD5P.

Though, most of the time I see people do 260 HT Clock w/ 945. Haven't seen many runs with BE chips on this board doing high HT Clocks as people normally just do the multi with an HT clock of 235.


----------



## Blitz6804

Like I said, I personally like high HTT clocks. Given my RAM limitations, I keep meaning to get around to trying even higher reference clocks, but I have not gotten around to doing so yet. (With the 533 divider I would be forced to use, I would need at least a 400 HTT to get back to DDR2-1066, yeah, that might happen. I would be perfectly happy if I was around DDR2-900 with tighter timings. That in itself requires a 338 HTT, which if paired with an 11x multi, would give a tasty 3.7 GHz. All it takes is time to test...)


----------



## BlackOmega

Tator, is there a reason why the 125w 955 wouldn't be a good choice? Does it not overclock as well as the 95w 945 or the 125w 965?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Like I said, I personally like high HTT clocks. Given my RAM limitations, I keep meaning to get around to trying even higher reference clocks, but I have not gotten around to doing so yet. (With the 533 divider I would be forced to use, I would need at least a 400 HTT to get back to DDR2-1066, yeah, that might happen. I would be perfectly happy if I was around DDR2-900 with tighter timings. That in itself requires a 338 HTT, which if paired with an 11x multi, would give a tasty 3.7 GHz. All it takes is time to test...)


Gotta give it the combo thread. Black Edition + HT clock tweaking









Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Tator, is there a reason why the 125w 955 wouldn't be a good choice? Does it not overclock as well as the 95w 945 or the 125w 965?


The 955BE uses the old IMC/NB that most of the x4's use.

The 945 95watt & 965BE have a new NB allowing for higher NB clocks, and overall better system performance.

As most people don't realize with AMD Phenom CPU's (and my Kuma) you need to have a high NB clock, with tight RAM timings, otherwise you won't see the performance that others see.

On stock AM3 CPU's have a 2000mhz HT (200x10, then dual pumped for 4000Mt/s) and a stock NB of 1800mhz.

Well if you look at the guys that are benching high, it's because they have an NB running in the 2500mhz area, which effects system performance greatly.
In a numbers sense, it can be a point to point score in 3D Mark, ala, 500mhz overclock on your NB can get you up to 500 more points in 3D Mark (depending on the rest of your system and how it's all set up obviously.)

Also, when overclocking Phenom's, keep the HT clock as close to stock as you can.

So for AM2+ CPU's (Phenom I's & Phenom II x4 920/940) you need to keep them at 2000mhz roughly. 
While on a AM3 system you need to keep them around 2000mhz. 
Again, on 2400HT vs 2000HT there was almost a 200 point decrease in 3D Mark.


----------



## shadow_419

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


snip.

On stock AM3 CPU's have a 2000mhz HT (200x10, then dual pumped for 4000Mt/s) and a stock NB of 1800mhz. 
snip.


AM3 stock NB has always been 2000mhz. You can't have your HT link faster than you NB/imc.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shadow_419*


AM3 stock NB has always been 2000mhz. You can't have your HT link faster than you NB/imc.


I need to edit that to reflect of stock NB of AM3 being 2000mhz. Thanks for the catch.

The whole Phenom II =/= AM3 thing screws me up some times.


----------



## OSDCrusher

Hey guys. I just got my first DFI board, it's a DFI LANPARTY UT nF4 Ultra-D 939. I'm running it with an Opteron 170. This BIOS is extremely extensive. Can someone help me overclock to 2.60 GHz?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OSDCrusher*


Hey guys. I just got my first DFI board, it's a DFI LANPARTY UT nF4 Ultra-D 939. I'm running it with an Opteron 170. This BIOS is extremely extensive. Can someone help me overclock to 2.60 GHz?


 Well just like any other 939 board, you want to find the max reference clock (FSB). Drop your multiplier down to lets say 6x, drop your RAM divider down a notch and increase your reference clock to 210, boot up and run orthos/OCCT for ~5minutes or S&M v1.9.1, short test cpu only. 
And do this systematically until it just wont go any higher then increase the NB voltage 1 step. Also, while doing this every time you boot up run CPUz to make sure you haven't exceeded 200MHz on your ram (DDR400).

The ultra D is a good board and should get you some fairly high numbers. One of mine hit a max of 403.
That should get you started. Then after you find the max reference clock you'll move on to the CPU.
For that, raise the multiplier to its max, which I'm going to assume is 10x, drop your RAM divider down as low as it'll go and still boot (you can leave the timings set to auto). Then as before, raise the reference clock incrementally and check for stability using any of the aforementioned tests.

Good Luck









Also, check the first page of this thread there are some good guides to OCing 939's.


----------



## Blitz6804

Exactly Tator. Northbridge speed has an ASTRONOMICAL impact on RAM bandwidth. With the K8, your Northbridge and CPU speed were one and the same. With the K10 / K10.5, the distinct Northbridge often runs slower, resulting in a lower RAM bandwidth megahertz to megahertz. I have so far been able to stabilize a Northbridge of 2430 MHz, which gives me a 2 MBps boost over the stock 1800 MHz. The rule for my x4 940 is to keep the HT less than or equal to the NB. It would make sense then that since the stock HT for the AM3 CPUs is 2000 MHz, that the stock NB is as well.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shadow_419* 
Not trying to ninja anyone but, the biggest reason for the lower ref clocks are the higher overall multipliers the newer cpu's have. High ref clocks (300+) are still possible just not really needed.

Shadow_419, good point. This equipment is still new to me so I keep forgetting about the higher multipliers hehe.

Tator, good information in posts #18487 and #18490









Quote:


Originally Posted by *OSDCrusher* 
Hey guys. I just got my first DFI board, it's a DFI LANPARTY UT nF4 Ultra-D 939. I'm running it with an Opteron 170. This BIOS is extremely extensive. Can someone help me overclock to 2.60 GHz?

OSDCrusher, here is a older AM2 overclocking guide that I suggest reading over. It follows the same overclocking procedures with Socket 939. The memory frequency speeds are obviously different in the guide but I'm sure you get the point. As BlackOmega has already stated, it's very smart if you start off finding the limits of each component first. Build a foundation and start with that.

Hope that helps


----------



## OSDCrusher

The motherboard won't load up Windows if I have an HTT clock of over 250. This is pretty good for .25 above stock volts:
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=713476


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OSDCrusher*


The motherboard won't load up Windows if I have an HTT clock of over 250.


OSDCrusher, did you up the voltage on the motherboard? I believe stock is 1.2volts on these motherboards.


----------



## OSDCrusher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


OSDCrusher, did you up the voltage on the motherboard? I believe stock is 1.2volts on these motherboards.


The CPUs stock voltage is 1.35. I had the vcore set to 1.40 in the BIOS.


----------



## OSDCrusher

I must be doing something wrong because I can't get the CPU stable even at 2300 MHz,a 300 MHz overclock.


----------



## Blitz6804

Thlnk3r meant the nForce4 chipset voltage. Is that still at the stock 1.2 V?


----------



## OSDCrusher

No. I have it set at 1.4 I just got to 2600 MHZ, my target speed









http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=713511


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

I downloaded the latest Nforce 4 ultra drivers, i also reinstalled the drivers right before these.

I didn't see anywhere for setting a ratio for my ram and cpu fsb. If i manually set my memory to 400mhz and my fsb at 240 but i couldn't get my comp to post, just beeps at me.

But i'm back to 240 and memory to auto. Sooooo we will see how it works.


----------



## Blitz6804

Try setting the memory to 333.


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

Tried, didn't boot when computer at 240


----------



## Blitz6804

Did you manually set CAS-tRCD-tRP-tRAS to 3-4-4-8 for testing's sake? If they are all set to Auto, it might be tighter then when set on the 400 divider, causing it not to POST.


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

When i turn it from Auto -> Manual for dram settings at all everything goes to i have to set it, nothing is auto there on out.

I changed CL to 3 but that was it. And to 400/333 mhz. I am testing old drivers and like i said i updated the Nfroce ware. I'm going to see if that works.

I'll post back later because 1-3 hours and it cuts out usually.

Thx though for your help, rep+


----------



## Blitz6804

Hey Joe, whatever happened to that big announcement for all of us?

In other news, I am FINALLY updating the off-site roster. Sorry for the delay.*

*And am still looking for a motivated helper/data collector.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Bigpoppafairy, could you post screenshots/digi-pix of your BIOS screens? I'm almost sure that there has to be a way to manipulate your RAM dividers in there.









OSDCrusher, I think we need to establish your core components' limits first.

That means testing your motherboard for its highest reference clock speed in isolation; testing your CPU speed for its maximum limits in isolation; and then finally testing your RAM for its maximum performance (timings AND MHz) in isolation. It's a slow, methodical approach, but you get the best of all worlds (highest possible CPU + RAM speed) doing things this way.

Good luck.


----------



## Blitz6804

The off-site roster has finally been updated.

BigpoppaFrary, bobby219, IK694, judgementofgod, scutzi128, mattliston, OSDCrusher, razr7, theCandian, TheSandman, and XAslanX are all now official off-site members.

decimate, and N2Gaming, your clocks have been updated accordingly.


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

Sound is still running and when i find my camera i will. I feel my phone will not take a good picture of this CRT


----------



## Blitz6804

Probably not a bad guess.

Here is an interesting failure for you all: I tried some crazy things given my rapidly falling ambient (last night was 46Âº F, today should be much of the same) and decided to try overclocking my CPU more. Well, when I tried 12x300, it POSTed and went into Windows fine. I tried to open CPU-Z, and it crashed. So I restarted to test again, and it crashed only upon opening CPU-Z. Strange...

Anyway, I tried loosening all my RAM driving strengths to their minimum to get a few more MHz out of my RAM, we will see what happens. I am not hopeful.


----------



## Blitz6804

As expected, the memory test failed within SECONDS of me starting it.

My RAM simply refuses to yield even one more megahertz. Oh well.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
The 955BE uses the old IMC/NB that most of the x4's use.

The 945 95watt & 965BE have a new NB allowing for higher NB clocks, and overall better system performance.

As most people don't realize with AMD Phenom CPU's (and my Kuma) you need to have a high NB clock, with tight RAM timings, otherwise you won't see the performance that others see.

On stock AM3 CPU's have a 2000mhz HT (200x10, then dual pumped for 4000Mt/s) and a stock NB of 1800mhz.

Well if you look at the guys that are benching high, it's because they have an NB running in the 2500mhz area, which effects system performance greatly.
In a numbers sense, it can be a point to point score in 3D Mark, ala, 500mhz overclock on your NB can get you up to 500 more points in 3D Mark (depending on the rest of your system and how it's all set up obviously.)

Also, when overclocking Phenom's, keep the HT clock as close to stock as you can.

So for AM2+ CPU's (Phenom I's & Phenom II x4 920/940) you need to keep them at 2000mhz roughly.
While on a AM3 system you need to keep them around 2000mhz.
Again, on 2400HT vs 2000HT there was almost a 200 point decrease in 3D Mark.

Thanks for the info Tator. Back to the search. I might just get a 720BE/UD4P/2GB OCZ plat. I wonder if I could get it below $300 shipped..


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Thanks for the info Tator. Back to the search. I might just get a 720BE/UD4P/2GB OCZ plat. I wonder if I could get it below $300 shipped..









Well the price difference is definitely there (between 945 & 720) but I'd honestly just go quad right now.

More so, AMD is realeasing a new Quad Design in the Athlon II x4's. Though, it's still off reporting as weather it will be a Phenom II x4 with disabled L3, or a new die design.

But, you can get a 2.8ghz model for $115 or a 2.6ghz model for $100, and they are 90% as fast as a Phenom II x4. While being more energy efficient.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Anyway, I tried loosening all my RAM driving strengths to their minimum to get a few more MHz out of my RAM, we will see what happens.


Blitz, not to be blunt or anything but why are you overclocking the memory? Worry about your memory later on. To be honest I think your 940BE is capable of more than 3.6Ghz. You have a unlocked multiplier...use it. Get that clock speed up, overclock your nb frequency and call it a day









Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Well the price difference is definitely there (between 945 & 720) but I'd honestly just go quad right now.

More so, AMD is realeasing a new Quad Design in the Athlon II x4's. Though, it's still off reporting as weather it will be a Phenom II x4 with disabled L3, or a new die design.

But, you can get a 2.8ghz model for $115 or a 2.6ghz model for $100, and they are 90% as fast as a Phenom II x4. While being more energy efficient.

Well it would be kind of silly for me not to get the 945. At ZZF the 945 95w is $159 when you combo it with some other product, even RAM. So I could get a 945 + 2GB of 7-6-6 OCZ plat for $206.99 shipped.

As for the Athlon II's, since their inception I've read that they were a completely different die. At least that is the hubbub on the internet ATM.
Also, from some other reading I hear that the 2.6 AII quad performs as well as a 720.
But I've also read that certain AII's can unlock the L3 cache. So if that's the case then I would have to assume that in fact they're not a different die at all. Maybe they're from the outer most edge of the wafer and the L3 cache was highly corrupted, or maybe they're exactly the same and just have it deactivated.
And speaking of L3 cache, since most HW intensive things I do is game, I'd prefer to have an L3 cache. From what I have read, a lot of games really utilize it and an increase in FPS and smooth gameplay is always worth it.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
As for the Athlon II's, since their inception I've read that they were a completely different die. At least that is the hubbub on the internet ATM.
Also, from some other reading I hear that the 2.6 AII quad performs as well as a 720.
But I've also read that certain AII's can unlock the L3 cache. So if that's the case then I would have to assume that in fact they're not a different die at all. Maybe they're from the outer most edge of the wafer and the L3 cache was highly corrupted, or maybe they're exactly the same and just have it deactivated.
And speaking of L3 cache, since most HW intensive things I do is game, I'd prefer to have an L3 cache. From what I have read, a lot of games really utilize it and an increase in FPS and smooth gameplay is always worth it.

BlackOmega, don't quote me on this but I think the Athlon II X2's are native dual-cores (the single-core Semprons are the same and can be unlocked). If I remember correctly the Athlon II X4's just have their L3 cache disabled which from what I hear can be unlocked as well. The likely hood of the L3 cache being corrupt/bad is probably rare. You are more likely to see a processor with faulty cores then faulty L3 cache.
A lot of users seem to be benefiting quite a bit from the new L3 cache. It however is slower than the L1 and L2 but it can hold more data. Hopefully Tator can pop in later and correct me or provide more information









Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, not to be blunt or anything but why are you overclocking the memory? Worry about your memory later on. To be honest I think your 940BE is capable of more than 3.6Ghz. You have a unlocked multiplier...use it.


I would agree with you, but I am in an unusual situation. If I keep moving my HTT up, my CPU should be able to handle it. The RAM however, does not like to be ran at that speed, so I would need to drop to a DDR2-533 divider, giving me DDR2-773. (If it would run DDR2-667 divider, I would be fine.) Alternatively, if I left the HTT alone and moved up my multiplier, I am required to add voltage to the processor, or else it is not stable. I cannot however add any voltage or I will breach thermal spec upon testing S&M.

So as I suspected, I am limited to my current clocks until I get better cooling and/or better RAM. I am hoping to use Christmas money for the same if I get any.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Well, when I tried 12x300, it POSTed and went into Windows fine.

























Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
My RAM simply refuses to yield even one more megahertz. Oh well.
































Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I might just get a 720BE/UD4P/2GB OCZ plat.

Glad to see this, I really don't like MSI!

BTW BO, If you don't absolutely have to upgrade now you may want to hold out for hydra.







It's only being worked on for p55 on msi (AFAIK) atm, but that should change quickly as it is cross platform.


----------



## shadow_419

AMD released the Athlon II x4 620 early using crippled Deneb dies. It's since been re-released with the actual native (4 core no L3) design. There are plenty of reviews out there on the usual sites of these new cpu's.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I cannot however add any voltage or I will breach thermal spec upon testing S&M.

So as I suspected, I am limited to my current clocks until I get better cooling and/or better RAM.

Blitz6804, what are the load temperatures again? Remember though you won't be running that processor at full load all the time (unless FAH) and S&M is probably one of the most intense stress testings applications I have ever seen. Your machine won't be 100% stable regardless so give something else a try like OCCT or P95/Orthos. Before spending money on a different cooler why don't you first try a cheaper approach like lapping your Noctua and your IHS. I don't see anything wrong with your Noctua. That is a beast of a cooler! Don't forget about your cable management and airflow. There is definitely a few things you can try









Quote:


Originally Posted by *shadow_419* 
AMD released the Athlon II x4 620 early using crippled Deneb dies. It's since been re-released with the actual native (4 core no L3) design. There are plenty of reviews out there on the usual sites of these new cpu's.

Shadow_419, I think it's more of a locked feature then a design correct? The L3 cache can still be unlocked with the "ACC" feature.

Good luck


----------



## OSDCrusher

Sorry to interrupt you guys conversation but, I did alot better. I lowered the HTT link to 3x and the LDT bus length to 16,16 and I got to 2600 MHz using 1.392V


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, don't quote me on this but I think the Athlon II X2's are native dual-cores (the single-core Semprons are the same and can be unlocked). If I remember correctly the Athlon II X4's just have their L3 cache disabled which from what I hear can be unlocked as well. The likely hood of the L3 cache being corrupt/bad is probably rare. You are more likely to see a processor with faulty cores then faulty L3 cache. 
A lot of users seem to be benefiting quite a bit from the new L3 cache. It however is slower than the L1 and L2 but it can hold more data. Hopefully Tator can pop in later and correct me or provide more information









Good luck


 Thanks for that tid bit thlnk3r. I read all sorts of conflicting information about the AII's. It get relatively difficult to sort through all of the BS. 
Yeah the L3 is slower but it does hold 3x the amount of information as the L2 so I suppose that makes up for it. 
As for AII's x2, they're not really an option for me. My 939 rigs are still very capable machines, and even though the AII x2's would be a step up, I'd prefer to go a little on the overkill side to sort of future proof my rig. Then hopefully I wont have upgrade for a while.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Glad to see this, I really don't like MSI!

BTW BO, If you don't absolutely have to upgrade now you may want to hold out for hydra.







It's only being worked on for p55 on msi (AFAIK) atm, but that should change quickly as it is cross platform.


 Well I have no experience with MSI, and from what I've read, that GD-70 is actually a very good board. Attains higher clocks, has better throughput than most of the others,etc.etc. I also like the look of the board, and all of the crazy heat sinks that are on it. I also like layout of the board as it incorporates lots of PCI slots with full size PCIe, none of that PCIe x1 crap.

I've noticed a lot of stuff coming out for AM3 recently, even DFI released a Blood Iron micro board that I saw in passing the other day.
Amazingly enough my CFX has decided to start cooperating again so I think I'm going to hold off for another month. I was really hoping to hold off until black friday and jump on some sweet deals. I guess i just gotta hide some cash away from the wife. That way the longer I hold off the bigger my budget will be, not to mention with all the new stuff coming out things will only get cheaper.









What is your guys' opinions on that OCZ EB (enhanced bandwidth) RAM? They advertise some pretty tight timings with it.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OSDCrusher*


Sorry to interrupt you guys conversation but, I did alot better. I lowered the HTT link to 3x and the LDT bus length to 16,16 and I got to 2600 MHz using 1.392V


OSDCrusher, what is your memory currently sitting at? You are doing great so far!

Good luck

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I'd prefer to go a little on the overkill side to sort of future proof my rig. Then hopefully I wont have upgrade for a while.


BO, my thoughts exactly. I had my eyes targeted on the 550BE but I think I'm settled on the 945.

In regards to the GD70, one thing I really like about that motherboard is the voltage reading points that are physically on the board. I think that is really cool. Now you can get a accurate Vcore reading with a multimeter


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz6804, what are the load temperatures again? Remember though you won't be running that processor at full load all the time (unless FAH) and S&M is probably one of the most intense stress testings applications I have ever seen. Your machine won't be 100% stable regardless so give something else a try like OCCT or P95/Orthos.


I like to be redundant. If it can handle S&M when I am around 71Âº F without issue, then if for some reason the airconditioning fails, I should be fine doing other things at lower temperatures. [email protected] SMP gets it to about 46Âº C, whereas S&M at the same speed gets it to 57Âº C. (This as at my present clocks.) When I increased voltage to 1.410 V or so, S&M got up to 62Âº C before I canned the test. A processor that is further from thermal spec at any given time will have a better chance of living in the case of a critical failure, something I like to hedge for.

As to cooling, I think the Noctua NH-C12P just cannot handle the quad core. Going from the SI-128 to the NH-C12P was a de minimis improvement to say the least. Increasing the fan from 1350 RPM to ear-bleedingly loud 2900 RPM nets me an improvement of at most 1Âº C. The cooler physically cannot dissipate heat any faster than it already does. Is it possible that lapping it might permit the CPU to transfer heat slightly faster? Sure. Is it worth another 3 hours of my time for that one or two degrees? Not likely. I really want to see what a high-end cooler (rather than a middle-of-the-pack cooler) can do for me. If the cooler was designed with the Core i7 in mind, I should be in smooth sailing with my Phenom II.

For the record, at 3.6 GHz, OCCT and Prime95 x64 (8 hours) pass without incident. S&M just gets too hot for me.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I'll repeat myself (since Blitzy apparently likes to do so, as well): Even a Prolimatech Megahalems will not improve your temperatures by more than two or degrees at most, especially if only one surface is lapped. If you're expecting to overcome whatever thermal limits you believe you have (I don't agree that you are at your thermal limit, but you've imposed it yourself, so that's fair) and get a significant performance improvement via higher CPU speeds, I think it'd be a disappointment in the works.


----------



## shadow_419

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Shadow_419, I think it's more of a locked feature then a design correct? The L3 cache can still be unlocked with the "ACC" feature.

Good luck


Nope, It's a new die.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...89&postcount=1

There's a picture of the naked die in the post. The size of the Deneb die is 258mm^2.

edit: grammar


----------



## Blitz6804

Aside of going watercooling, the Megahalems is supposed to be next to the next best thing (the next best thing being the IFX-14) based on the reviews I have seen.


----------



## BlackOmega

Blitz, lapping both the CPU and your HS will net you a HUGE temperature improvement. I think that would be the best course of action at this point.

To put it in perspective, using my Xiggy DK I see 10*C lower temps @ 1.55v using my 3800x2 than I do with the DK on my 180 @ 1.35v. Thats how big of a difference a lapped CPU makes. 
I think even if you went with a megatron you would be disappointed with the end result.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


As to cooling, I think the Noctua NH-C12P just cannot handle the quad core.


Blitz, I have seen quite a few users here overclocking the Phenom II X4 on stock cooling. I've seen up to 3.6Ghz OC's on the stock cooler. I think your Noctua can do it. I'd rather spend 3 hours lapping instead of spending $40-$60 on a new cooler. You said you won't be purchasing a new cooler till Christmas correct? Well that gives you plenty of time to lap both the cooler and IHS









Quote:



Originally Posted by *shadow_419*


Nope, It's a new die.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...89&postcount=1

There's a picture of the naked die in the post. The size of the Deneb die is 258mm^2.

edit: grammar


Shadow_419, interestingggg. I thought Deneb and Propus were the same







Was there a different Deneb revision maybe that I am thinking of? Either way the L3 cache can still be unlocked. Hopefully Tator can pop in and give us some more details on this.


----------



## shadow_419

No, like I said earlier there is no L3 to unlock on native Propus cores. That's why the physical dimensions of the die is smaller and uses less power than the Deneb core. Amd rushed some Athlon II's out the door as crippled Deneb cores. Propus was never meant to have L3 and when people started unlocking the L3, AMD pulled the cpu's. From the looks of things Amd hasn't really had a problem with the L3 cache being defective, and you can see that the x4 810's look like they're being phased out. The 810's were the only Deneb cores being sold with reduced L3 cache until the first Athlon II 620's popped up.

edit: spelling


----------



## timxirish

You know you've been using 939 for too long when... you attempt to unplug a stubborn SATA cable from an AM2+ motherboard, then pause to think "Oh yeah. These things have clips now."









I'm currently building a computer for a friend's family, and this is the first time I've been this close to anything newer than a 939 system. I'm still running strong on my two 939 rigs, but handling a newer system is tempting me to upgrade.

I do have a job now (Taco Del Mar, haha, I make tacos!) but I imagine most of my spending cash will go toward my case mod project which is currently at a standstill.. Heh, you can see where my priorities lay. Cutting, grinding and aesthetics above newer hardware.









Anywho, just droppin' in to say hi again.


----------



## shadow_419

Ha! I was plugging along with my opty 165 on an Ultra D until this past April. I was fairly happy with my rig but some of the games I play needed more cpu power than I had. I had a little extra cash so I bought the components for a new rig a little at a time. Overall I spent $425 for my mobo, cpu, psu, ram, and hsf.

Edit: Correct. Sorry, I though you were still confused. Easiest way to know whether or not it's Deneb based is the stepping code. (Not the week codes but package and mem controller code)

xxCYx AC = Deneb core based
xxDAx AD = Propus core based


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shadow_419*


No, like I said earlier there is no L3 to unlock on native Propus cores. That's why the physical dimensions of the die is smaller and uses less power than the Deneb core. Amd rushed some Athlon II's out the door as crippled Deneb cores. Propus was never meant to have L3 and when people started unlocking the L3, AMD pulled the cpu's. From the looks of things Amd hasn't really had a problem with the L3 cache being defective, and you can see that the x4 810's look like they're being phased out. The 810's were the only Deneb cores being sold with reduced L3 cache until the first Athlon II 620's popped up.


Shadow, disregard my last post. I was a tad confused there. Check out this from another site: http://alienbabeltech.com/main/?p=10923. How did this user unlock the L3 cach on the Propus core? Other sources have stated the Propus never came with L3 cache


----------



## Blitz6804

timxirish: My motherboard does not have clips on its SATA ports. DFI LP DK 790FX-M2RS. Strangely, if I remember right, the Abit AT8-32x did however.

thlnk3r: It is actually closer to $90 after shipping, 38mm fan brackets, and AM2+ mounting kit. I had intended to lap my Noctua, but I either (1) never received the kit I ordered or (2) lost it when I did, and never found it or got around to ordering another one. I never intend to lap my Deneb ever. With the manual control I have, I would likely end up snapping a few pins clean off; no thanks.


----------



## shadow_419

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Shadow, disregard my last post. I was a tad confused there. Check out this from another site: http://alienbabeltech.com/main/?p=10923. How did this user unlock the L3 cach on the Propus core? Other sources have stated the Propus never came with L3 cache










He posted on xtremesystems as well. I saw this a few weeks ago and it's a Deneb core based Athlon II x4 620.


----------



## timxirish

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


timxirish: My motherboard does not have clips on its SATA ports. DFI LP DK 790FX-M2RS. Strangely, if I remember right, the Abit AT8-32x did however.


Oh weird. Maybe it's a DFI thing or something. I've seen an ECS Elitegroup and ASUS mobo in this rebuilding process, and both had clips. Eh, oh well.


----------



## shadow_419

Quote:



Originally Posted by *timxirish*


Oh weird. Maybe it's a DFI thing or something. I've seen an ECS Elitegroup and ASUS mobo in this rebuilding process, and both had clips. Eh, oh well.


I think it's the cables themselves that have the clips. On most newer boards the ports all have the retention tab but if the cable doesn't have a clip it wont lock.


----------



## Blitz6804

My cables have clips. There is no slot for them to clip into on the DFI, with the end result is that when you plug it in, it slightly deforms the bracket.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
thlnk3r: It is actually closer to $90 after shipping, 38mm fan brackets, and AM2+ mounting kit. I had intended to lap my Noctua, but I either (1) never received the kit I ordered or (2) lost it when I did, and never found it or got around to ordering another one. I never intend to lap my Deneb ever. With the manual control I have, I would likely end up snapping a few pins clean off; no thanks.

Blitz, wow that is pretty expensive. Well take my thoughts into consideration. Like I said you are more than capable of overclocking that processor on stock cooling so the Noctua should do it. Do the hardware shops near you not carry any sandpaper? Don't worry about snapping pins off the processor...I don't really think that's possible unless you beat the crap out of it. The pressure applied to the processor during a lap shouldn't be crazy either so I wouldn't worry about it. There are ways to succeed and ways to fail. No more excuses chump









Quote:


Originally Posted by *shadow_419* 
He posted on xtremesystems as well. I saw this a few weeks ago and it's a Deneb core based Athlon II x4 620.

Shadow, thank you for clarify.


----------



## OSDCrusher

Fully stable:


----------



## Blitz6804

After you vet it fully are you going to give us a new CPU-Z link for the roster?


----------



## shadow_419

@ OSDCrusher

What are you using as a heatsink? Voltage looks a little higher than you should need for 2.6ghz.


----------



## OSDCrusher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


After you vet it fully are you going to give us a new CPU-Z link for the roster?


CPU-Z site is messed up right now.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shadow_419*


@ OSDCrusher

What are you using as a heatsink? Voltage looks a little higher than you should need for 2.6ghz.



I'm using a CoolerMaster V8. I'll try with a lower voltage but I don't think it will work.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Well guys, I am 8+ hours Orthos stable at 2.85Ghz on my Opty 170 and stable at DDR 520

I am still going to run S&M to make sure it is rock solid. I'll post a screen when I get that done.

I'm fairly certain I can hit 3Ghz stable, but I still need to tweak a bit more. I just have to find the time from work to do that.


----------



## shadow_419

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OSDCrusher*


I'm using a CoolerMaster V8. I'll try with a lower voltage but I don't think it will work.



I know it's all relative to how good the cpu clocks but I was just comparing to an old screen shot I had from my opty 165


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OSDCrusher*


Fully stable:


OSDCrusher, looking great! Perhaps you already mentioned this but what is the stepping of your Opteron 170?

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Sometimes the same exact chip will need different VCore values when used in combination with different RAM and/or a different motherboard.









Case in point: I have one of thlnk3r's Opteron 170s. In his nF4 SLI-DR, it ran 3.0GHz at just above stock VCore; in my nF4 SLI-DR, I've got it at 1.40V VCore.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OSDCrusher*


Fully stable:


seems like the Volts are a bit high for 2.6GHz


----------



## shadow_419

Yeah I understand that. It just seemed a little higher than what I remembered was the norm for a 2.6ghz overclock. My opty 165 is a pretty good chip. I can run up to 2.6 on stock volts which is what it's still running. I gave my girl and her kid the opty rig when I upgraded to AM3.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

thlnk3r's question is the money question, IMO.


----------



## OSDCrusher

My 170 will not be stable at any voltage lower than 1.40 I must have a bad stepping. The stepping is CCBWE 0551UPMW.


----------



## OSDCrusher

This is from the Opteron 100 Series Overclocking average Stepping Info thread.

Averaging <=2600

CCBWE 0534SPMW
CCBWE 0541RPMW
CCBWE 0543TPMW
*CCBWE 0551UMPW/VPMW*
CCBWE 0604TPMW
CCBWE 0607UPBW
CCBWE 0609FPAW


----------



## OSDCrusher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Case in point: I have one of thlnk3r's Opteron 170s. In his nF4 SLI-DR, it ran 3.0GHz at just above stock VCore; in my nF4 SLI-DR, I've got it at 1.40V VCore.


Why does thinkl3r give you stuff like this?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OSDCrusher*


Why does thinkl3r give you stuff like this?


Give? Pfft. I bought it back from him.


----------



## OSDCrusher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Give? Pfft. I bought it back from him.










Oh, my mistake. Did http://valid.canardpc.com/ get hacked?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OSDCrusher*


Why does thinkl3r give you stuff like this?


Cause that's hows we roll


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OSDCrusher*


Oh, my mistake. Did http://valid.canardpc.com/ get hacked?


Dunno. Are you running the latest version of CPU-Z? Sometimes the site freaks out when you're not.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Cause that's hows we roll










Now now, Fezzik. Don't be spreading rumors...


----------



## shadow_419

Ok, makes sense then given the stepping. I have a CCBBE 0615 EPMW.


----------



## OSDCrusher

http://valid.canardpc.com/

It says Mmmmmmmmh when you click the link, and it can't find any CPU-Z validation on the server. Yes, i'm using the most recent version of CPU-Z.


----------



## GuardianOdin

we are a generous group here, that's all. Relax


----------



## OSDCrusher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


we are a generous group here, that's all. Relax


No one's ever given me anything on OCN... Not that I'm complaining or anything.


----------



## Blitz6804

Remember, it is far better to give than receive...

Joe / OSDCrusher: It seems that the CPU-Z validation site is indeed down. Every single link on the roster is broken in all five of my web browsers.


----------



## OSDCrusher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Remember, it is far better to give than receive...


Who are you, a Sunday school teacher? That's a load of poo, if you give you don't get anything.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OSDCrusher*


No one's ever given me anything on OCN...


Stick around OCN long enough and it could happen. Not just the 939 club, but other area's as well. Members worth their weight tend to be noticed by others. I seen a few members that have fallen on hard times be helped by hardware donations.


----------



## OSDCrusher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Stick around OCN long enough and it could happen. Not just the 939 club, but other area's as well. Members worth their weight tend to be noticed by others. I seen a few members that have fallen on hard times be helped by hardware donations.


I'm not looking for a handout, I'm just saying.


----------



## Blitz6804

OSDCrusher: Regardless what you think of it, I do like to think I have made a difference in at least one member's life. I always try to help whenever possible, even without expectation of remuneration, knowing that someday they will do the same for another in need.

If you come to this site expecting any tangible goods for free, except while in the freebie section, you have come with stilted expectations.

The point of OCN is to provide a community and knowledgebase for all people of common interests. Nothing more. Nothing less.


----------



## OSDCrusher

Quote:


Originally Posted by *OSDCrusher* 
I'm not looking for a handout, I'm just saying.

^^^


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Joe / OSDCrusher: It seems that the CPU-Z validation site is indeed down. Every single link on the roster is broken in all five of my web browsers.


The servers are currently offline for the CPUID people. Physically disconnected I do believe. (Judging by the data sent back and forth.)

Though, niether CPUID.com nor the Development Blog has said anything.


----------



## BlackOmega

Hey if you guys were going to sell my opty on fleabay, what would you guys put for a "Buy it now!" price? I was thinkin $180.


----------



## Frost

The DR expert board I have wont seem go past 307fsb stable, and I cant seem to push my core past 2700 without 1.6v+. I wont go watercooling until my next rig which will be all new stuff once I have the $$.

Being its one of the lower clocking cores though I like my overall success. I have seen several logged at 2.9-3ghz of this stepping, but the hardware I got for it seems to be bottle-necked. I just finished attempting an entire retry on the oc a few days ago ago for the fun of it, but didnt seem to provide any stable results above this.


----------



## Blitz6804

Frost: Your RAM is getting a touch fast. I do not suppose the CPU is willing to go faster for you if you ran your RAM on the DDR-333 divider does it? 2T command rate? Is spread spectrum turned off in your BIOS? Is the "Row Refresh Cycle Time (tRFC)" 2 or 4 greater than your "Bank Cycle Time (tRC)"? In any event, great work, I will add you to the off-site roster first thing tomorrow. Thlnk3r or Txtmstrjoe will add you to the on-site roster soon I am sure.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hey if you guys were going to sell my opty on fleabay, what would you guys put for a "Buy it now!" price? I was thinkin $180.


Sounds like a good price to me.

I've seen them go for much more, but considering the time, it's definitely worth a shot.







Good luck man!


----------



## BlackOmega

Thanks Tator. Yeah I saw some older stock retail ones for over $200. Those aren't even diffused in Germany.







.

I'm still debating whether I should advertise that it overclocks well or not


----------



## txtmstrjoe

OmegaSupreme, what's the prevailing trend on eBay as far as advertising OCing potential?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
OmegaSupreme, what's the prevailing trend on eBay as far as advertising OCing potential?

Well the few that I have seen always say has never been overclocked.







Maybe, I'll just say it was sitting in my mom's computer and has never been overclocked.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Well the few that I have seen always say has never been overclocked.







Maybe, I'll just say it was sitting in my mom's computer and has never been overclocked.









I would go with that.

Fleabay is like the direct opposite to the OCN Market.

High Prices, don't like overclocking or mods.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
I would go with that.

Fleabay is like the direct opposite to the OCN Market.

High Prices, don't like overclocking or mods.

Thats the car sales world too. Cars that have been modified, unless done by a pro, will usually call for far less money.


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

how bad would my rig bottle neck my new gpu?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary*


how bad would my rig bottle neck my new gpu?


Can't find your mobo but I don't see any bottlenecks for that card. You could use more mem.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Give? Pfft. I bought it back from him.









Joe, yeah because you were threatening me









Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Frost: Your RAM is getting a touch fast. I do not suppose the CPU is willing to go faster for you if you ran your RAM on the DDR-333 divider does it? 2T command rate? Is spread spectrum turned off in your BIOS? Is the "Row Refresh Cycle Time (tRFC)" 2 or 4 greater than your "Bank Cycle Time (tRC)"? In any event, great work, I will add you to the off-site roster first thing tomorrow. Thlnk3r or Txtmstrjoe will add you to the on-site roster soon I am sure.

Great suggestions above.

Frost, would cooling happen to be a culprit? What are your temperatures at full load?

Good luck

EDIT: Frost I added you to the roster. Welcome to the club!


----------



## Blitz6804

As promised Frost, you are now an official off-site roster member!


----------



## Frost

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Frost: Your RAM is getting a touch fast. I do not suppose the CPU is willing to go faster for you if you ran your RAM on the DDR-333 divider does it? 2T command rate? Is spread spectrum turned off in your BIOS? Is the "Row Refresh Cycle Time (tRFC)" 2 or 4 greater than your "Bank Cycle Time (tRC)"?


When I went for a new testing phase last week I attempted each individual part for its full potential by our old OC guide. Yes my ram is getting fast, I lowered the divider on almost all tests going higher. I tried alot of different settings in my memory alone to see what its potential was, 2T didnt seem make any noticable difference in the tests. I never use spread spectrum.

If I remember correctly one of the series of tests I did at 2.8-9ghz had my memory divider lowered to rule it out, but the second core kept failing(second box in Orthos), it might work at 1.6+v but my air cooler doesn't work good at that high of voltage, gets to 50C to quickly.

I do know however that my current OC is still stable, I ran orthos for 24 hours just recently to check that nothing was going bad, and the cpu temp was steady at 40C load.

Id say the most curious thing to me was that someone had shown getting 2970mhz with 1.48v with my stepping(330*9), either I have something wrong, or my mobo is the problem, didn't seem to work for me.


----------



## thlnk3r

Frost, you just might be unlikely and have reached the limit of your processor. LCB9E were known for excellent overclocks but I have seen some not overclock that great at all...


----------



## Blitz6804

As long as you keep temperatures under 65Âº C (though, I would advocate below 58Âº C at 1.600 V) it should be fine.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

An Opty hitting circa 2.8-2.9GHz is an excellent achievement.









Not everyone gets lucky in getting one of those exceptional chips that hits 3.0GHz. Skill and experience come into it, but I think LUCK is a bigger factor altogether.


----------



## Frost

I just recalled something, and checked my notepad from those tests, I remember what the main issue was. I could not get the cpu to go over 2763mhz. It apeared to be the highest I could get it in finding my max CPU speed, anything higher and I couldnt even boot into windows.

I used the guide and set my cpu fan to kick in at 30c, set my memory to ddr200, set my multi to 9(highest), and put the volts to 1.6v., anything past 307fsb wouldnt boot, and my max FSB is 330 so I wouldn't be able to lower the multi and get that or higher cpu.


----------



## Blitz6804

Did you augment your chipset voltage any during your testing? Did you try loosening tRC/tRFC? My Gigabyte refused to pass a certain HTT when the tRC/tRFC were any tighter than 19/21 respectively.


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

How are these for 3dmark scores for my current rig?

7k 3dmark06 and 11k for 3dmark 05. i didn't save them so i gotta re run them but will later.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary*


How are these for 3dmark scores for my current rig?

7k 3dmark06 and 11k for 3dmark 05. i didn't save them so i gotta re run them but will later.


BigpoppaFrary, hey that is pretty good for a 8600GT. The 1950XT in my signature rig I think scores around 6k. I'm on a single-core machine and the games I run play great! That setup should be fine for a while


----------



## Frost

Yes constantly messing with voltages(even ram volts), and no, Didnt mess with the timings to test the mobo just the ram. As for volts, I even was able to get my memory to show stability in memtest up to 290mhz, but I had to put the voltages to around 3.4v which I will not leave for long term. CPU, and all of the mobo volts I upped and lowered in different scenarios, but I still couldn't get past those road blocks.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Frost*


I used the guide and set my cpu fan to kick in at 30c, set my memory to ddr200, set my multi to 9(highest), and put the volts to 1.6v., anything past 307fsb wouldnt boot, and my max FSB is 330 so I wouldn't be able to lower the multi and get that or higher cpu.


 Although you might've been able to achieve a high reference clock (FSB) with a low multiplier, doesn't mean that you can achieve that same FSB with a higher multiplier. For example with my naked 3500+ and my Ultra-D, with the lowest multiplier I could hit over 400FSB, but once I started to raise the multiplier the highest FSB it could hit was ~270.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Although you might've been able to achieve a high reference clock (FSB) with a low multiplier, doesn't mean that you can achieve that same FSB with a higher multiplier. For example with my naked 3500+ and my Ultra-D, with the lowest multiplier I could hit over 400FSB, but once I started to raise the multiplier the highest FSB it could hit was ~270.


I would think that this is more an indication of the CPU's limits, rather than the motherboard's ability to generate/sustain a high reference clock.









Remember that it's one thing to find the limits of each of the key subsystems (motherboard, CPU, RAM); it's often another thing altogether to find the best *combination* of all three.

Of course, you could tune your OC to favor one or two of the subsystems (say, RAM & CPU together, or just go with the highest possible CPU clock); you can bias your settings to be high on one of the three and low on the other two. I think that going for settings that encompass all three, wherein you don't exactly hit the limits of all three but still get pretty high up, is the best possible approach because you have all three subsystems optimized.

Then you begin the game of getting your system stable... but that's another step...


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

Sigh.... My sound contines to go out. i'm at 220 fsb and so is my ram but... After a while "no mixer could be found" also when i go to uninstall the realtek drivers after this happens, it says there is no drivers present.

BUT I STILL HAVE WINDOWS SOUNDS, BEEPS, BONKS AND BLERPS......


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I would think that this is more an indication of the CPU's limits, rather than the motherboard's ability to generate/sustain a high reference clock.









Remember that it's one thing to find the limits of each of the key subsystems (motherboard, CPU, RAM); it's often another thing altogether to find the best *combination* of all three.

Of course, you could tune your OC to favor one or two of the subsystems (say, RAM & CPU together, or just go with the highest possible CPU clock); you can bias your settings to be high on one of the three and low on the other two. I think that going for settings that encompass all three, wherein you don't exactly hit the limits of all three but still get pretty high up, is the best possible approach because you have all three subsystems optimized.

Then you begin the game of getting your system stable... but that's another step...









I just noticed my typo. I meant 370 not 270.

I'm not disputing anything you're saying. I totally agree. With regards to my personal testing using the naked 3500+ at 5.5x it could hit over 400 (if you recall my ram became the limitation at that point), but once I raised it to 6x (definitely still within the cpu's limits), it did not want to boot no matter what. But once I dropped the reference clock, I had no issues.


----------



## Blitz6804

370? That is absolutely insane; DFI used to make great boards. (As we discussed, 939 boards tend to prefer higher HTTs than AM2 boards.) So far, the highest I have been able to get stable on my board is 290 MHz.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
370? That is absolutely insane; DFI used to make great boards. (As we discussed, 939 boards tend to prefer higher HTTs than AM2 boards.) So far, the highest I have been able to get stable on my board is 290 MHz.

It has to do with the whole HT 2.0 & HT 3.0 implemented on AM2/AM2+/AM3 equipment.

With those techs came the ability to have higher multi's and such for larger HT Link Speeds, and thus higher CPU speeds.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


370? That is absolutely insane; DFI used to make great boards. (As we discussed, 939 boards tend to prefer higher HTTs than AM2 boards.) So far, the highest I have been able to get stable on my board is 290 MHz.


I was able to hit 385 with my Opty 165, still trying with this Opty 170. I haven't tried a 9 multiplier just yet. Yes, those 939 DFI Mobo are a bit insane. Just at our members list


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary*


Sigh.... My sound contines to go out. i'm at 220 fsb and so is my ram but... After a while "no mixer could be found" also when i go to uninstall the realtek drivers after this happens, it says there is no drivers present.

BUT I STILL HAVE WINDOWS SOUNDS, BEEPS, BONKS AND BLERPS......


BigpoppaFrary, as suggested previously you may want to try a older/newer version of the driver. Are you running the driver from Windows update? If that does not work your last perhaps the Sound Blaster needs to be replaced. I have had a few Audigy's go out on me so it wouldn't be abnormal.

Good luck


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

oh woops, i havn't updated that. I'm talking about the onboard realtek97 drivers, i let windows try to install it. I tried the latest drivers, i have an old driver but a game is updating and will try it in a little while.

If all else fails i DO have an Audigy SE card i'll throw in here.


----------



## Blitz6804

The Audigy SE might not be a bad idea. I personally never let Windows install any hardware driver for me, I always get from the manufacturer's website. Also, it bares mentioning, that my Gigabyte had problems with the onboard sound at elevated HTTs, so you are not alone.


----------



## Blitz6804

BlackOmega: I found something that may or may not help you.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FallenFaux*


You might want to do some more reserch into PCIe bottlenecking. I had a 790GX with 2 4870s and upgrading to a 790FX didn't improve the 3DM06 score at all. Think about it, if a 4870 was bottlenecked by 8x PCIe 2.0, then a 4870x2 couldn't run effectivly on 16x.


Does this mean that an 8x could be a problem for an HD 4870x2? I do not know; I am still looking in my travels for you.

EDIT: I Found what I wanted!

























(All graciously provided by Alien Babel Tech's article on PCIe 1.0 versus PCIe 2.0. Remember, PCIe 1.0 16x is the same exact speed as PCIe 2.0 8x. As we can see, neither 3DMark06 nor 3DMarkVantage cause the GPU's bandwidth to tap out. However, when they start mentioning gaming, the graphics performance can differ upwards of 17% (Crysis Dx10, WUXGA, maxed out sans for AA/AF). Enemy Territory and F.E.A.R. show no difference. Hope this helps.


----------



## BlackOmega

That helps a lot Blitz, Thanks.

It seems that unless you're going for tri-fire, PCIe 8x/16x won't matter with our present cards. However, what about if we want to upgrade to 5890s? 6890's?
I'm sure the 16x will start to get a more noticeable speed boost as technology improves and games become even more demanding.

Luckily, my AM3 step up is on hold for the moment. I'm trying to hold off as my CFX, for the most part, has been behaving. Hopefully, it'll serve me until Black Friday. Then I'll be able to get better stuff.


----------



## Blitz6804

The way I read the results, it seems the HD 4870x2 is right around the bandwidth cap of PCIe 2.0 8x / PCIe 1.0 16x, or slightly above it. The GTX 280 seems to be well above it, but not all games support the full processing power of the GTX 280.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
... I personally never let Windows install any hardware driver for me, I always get from the manufacturer's website. ...


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
The way I read the results, it seems the HD 4870x2 is right around the bandwidth cap of PCIe 2.0 8x / PCIe 1.0 16x, or slightly above it. The GTX 280 seems to be well above it, but not all games support the full processing power of the GTX 280.

I was somewhat surprised that PCIe 1.0 actually did slightly better in certain circumstances.

When I was reading about the 5890 and it having more bandwidth than a 4870x2, is when 16x/16x crossfire became a concern.


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

I only let windows try because everything else doesn't work


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary*


I only let windows try because everything else doesn't work










Before I started getting old and lazy I would start the driver package install from the manufacturer and them after extraction I'd find the temp files and copy them then cancel and strip out the inf and required driver files and have a 100k driver package from a 100mb initial one.


----------



## Kryton

Gee, it's been so long since I've posted here I don't know where to start or even what's happened in this thread lately.

Been insanely busy as of late and it's not slowing down yet BUT that's a good thing. Need the extra $$ to buy more stuff with anyway.

I haven't gone anywhere guys, it's just been one of those things that happens this time of year for us. My job is doing HVAC in a Warehouse (DC/Distribution Center) and Christmas time orders are coming in and shipping like there's no tomorrow. Since the place is open, gotta be there.


----------



## BlackOmega

Good to see that you're alive and well Kryton.









And I know what you mean, so far this semester is the heaviest class load since I've gone back to school. Luckily the classes are somewhat easy, although my ethics class will more than likely prove to be the most challenging.

That and I've been working on a van that my folks bought (putting an engine cradle in it), and since its a Michigan car, a lot of stuff is rusted together and anything I touch turns in to rust powder.









How has your AM3 been serving you?


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Good to see that you're alive and well Kryton.









And I know what you mean, so far this semester is the heaviest class load since I've gone back to school. Luckily the classes are somewhat easy, although my ethics class will more than likely prove to be the most challenging.

That and I've been working on a van that my folks bought (putting an engine cradle in it), and since its a Michigan car, a lot of stuff is rusted together and anything I touch turns in to rust powder.









How has your AM3 been serving you?


So far the AM3 has been great but believe I hosed the RAM with one of my insane OC attempts earlier. Doesn't clock nearly as well as it used to but at least I can still use it if I set my divider for the slowest RAM speed - Then again it could be something else wrong since I can even game with it and does so with no problem as long as I have it set they way I described.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
So far the AM3 has been great but believe I hosed the RAM with one of my insane OC attempts earlier. Doesn't clock nearly as well as it used to but at least I can still use it if I set my divider for the slowest RAM speed - Then again it could be something else wrong since I can even game with it and does so with no problem as long as I have it set they way I described.









I wonder if the IMC was damaged. Supposedly these new AM3 chips don't take so well to high volts.
Well, I suppose you could always buy some inexpensive RAM for testing and see if it takes care of the issue, or verify possible CPU damage.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
I haven't gone anywhere guys,


















Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
although my ethics class will more than likely prove to be the most challenging.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I just realized that I owe everyone an *ANNOUNCEMENT*.









It is my great pleasure to let everyone know that we have *three new Club Officers*: *BlackOmega*, *Hueristic*, and *N2Gaming* are our new Club Officers. They take the place of *Blitz6804*, *GuardianOdin*, and *pioneerisloud*, all of whom thlnk3r and I thank profusely for all the help they've given us in their time in service as the Club's officers.









It's thlnk3r's and my intention that S939 Club Officers serve on a rotational basis. By this I mean that these appointments are not "for life," per se, but are meant to be offered to S939 Club members who demonstrate a love for our Club, a willingness to share whatever they can to the group, and help thlnk3r and I so much (especially behind the scenes) in administrating such a large group of OCNers. We actually asked more than just the three new officers if they would like to do us the favor of being a Club officer, but were turned down due to competing priorities.

Nevertheless, I'm proud and happy to welcome our three new officers, as well as very very grateful for the three previous officers who are being rotated out.

Thank you so much, everyone. Officer or not (old or new), it is this group's membership which makes it what it is.

I've said it before, and I'll say it again: I think ours is the *BEST* OCN Club, bar none!

Keep it up, everyone! And give yourselves a hand!









p.s. I'll make the necessary revisions to this thread's first post imminently, when I can squeeze out the time for it.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I've said it before, and I'll say it again: I think ours is the *BEST* OCN Club, bar none!












































:y essir:


----------



## N2Gaming

Hi all, I have not been around to much lately either. switched from Comspast to AT&T DSL. So far all is good. I think my upload spd's will be a bit slower now at 512 but should not notice much of a difference w/downloads.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hi all, I have not been around to much lately either.


:swearing::swearing::swearing::swearing:


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

I have a question.

I had a stable overclock @ 240 mhz 10x multi 4xhtt and auto ram (so it clocked to 240 i think) on my 3800x2.

i got a 8600Gts but had previously turned the clock down to 220mhz because of heat index and my stock cooling. When temps were right i put it back to 240 but got bsod after bsod durring games and heavy resource programs.

I do have some no name powersupply that i got out of a case. The case was made by E-Power so i assume it is one of their power supplies. The cables were sleaved and had decent amps on paper so i am using it until i get another.

But with the new power draw from my graphics card do you think it is possible that the computer is bsod due to insufficient/Voltage way off? Or something else?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


:swearing::swearing::swearing::swearing:


Sorry bro. I had issues w/my internet-cable so I made a switch hopefully for the better.

Congrats to the new officers and best wishes to the retired officers.

Thank you textmstrjoe & Thlnk3r I'll do my best.
















Quote:



Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary*


with the new power draw from my graphics card do you think it is possible that the computer is bsod due to insufficient/Voltage way off? Or something else?


That is always possible. Having a good clean strong power supply is in my book my first priority when building a system. To many things can go wrong when using week inferior power supplies one of which is killing your whole system. Let's hope that none of us suffer that fate w/our prescious 939's.

If you have a volt meter (DMM) you can test your 3/5/12v rails to determine if you do have a power supply issue.

Good Luck,

N2


----------



## thlnk3r

Kryton, greetings buddy. It's good to hear your job is keeping you busy









Welcome aboard new Club Officers!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I wonder if the IMC was damaged. Supposedly these new AM3 chips don't take so well to high volts.


BlackOmega, if it was just the memory voltage that was changed then the processor itself should be fine. The IMC only receives voltage increases if you change the "CPU-NB" value. It's separate from VDimm.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary*


But with the new power draw from my graphics card do you think it is possible that the computer is bsod due to insufficient/Voltage way off? Or something else?


BigpoppaFrary, it's very possible this particular unit could be causing the the BSOD's. What kind of stability testing did you perform (other than video card based)? Does it pass Prime95, Orthos, OCCT ect? Do you have a multimeter available so that you could test all three rails (12v, 5v and 3,3v)? If the rails jump around during load then that could be a possible culprit. Here's a guide that may be of some assistance if you do decide to check the rails with a multimeter. What is the exact model number/part number on your power supply? I couldn't find anything under, "X-Warrior 450 Watt".

Good luck


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

Well the PSU came in this case... http://www.overclockercafe.com/Revie...rior/index.htm

I don't have a multi meter but what occt tells me after my stress test is that it does jump around some. And usually with when my cpu usage falls and spikes.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary*


Well the PSU came in this case... http://www.overclockercafe.com/Revie...rior/index.htm

I don't have a multi meter but what occt tells me after my stress test is that it does jump around some. And usually with when my cpu usage falls and spikes.


BigpoppaFrary, the power supply image is little blurry. I'm having a bit of a difficulty reading out the model number. Could you let us know what it is? It should be displayed on the sticker which is located on the power supply itself.

The OCCT readings from the power supply are probably not accurate. Measuring the rails during testing with a multimeter would be the best course action. During OCCT testing does the machine give you any blue screens?

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I've said it before, and I'll say it again: I think ours is the *BEST* OCN Club, bar none!

Keep it up, everyone! And give yourselves a hand!









































Quote:



Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary*


I have a question.

I had a stable overclock @ 240 mhz 10x multi 4xhtt and auto ram (so it clocked to 240 i think) on my 3800x2.

i got a 8600Gts but had previously turned the clock down to 220mhz because of heat index and my stock cooling. When temps were right i put it back to 240 but got bsod after bsod durring games and heavy resource programs.

I do have some no name powersupply that i got out of a case. The case was made by E-Power so i assume it is one of their power supplies. The cables were sleaved and had decent amps on paper so i am using it until i get another.

But with the new power draw from my graphics card do you think it is possible that the computer is bsod due to insufficient/Voltage way off? Or something else?


 A crappy PSU will most definitely cause some strange issues. Having a nice clean power source is pretty important. The motherboard can only regulate so much crappy input.
However, when you've exceeded the output capacity of a power supply it typically just powers down (in my experience). Although, I would imagine that if it is teetering on the fine line between handling the output and not,it could cause some pretty strange things to happen. 
Giving my CPU's a nice clean power supply makes it easier to overclock higher.

Another thing that came to mind was did you re-seat the NB cooler with some good quality TIM? I actually lapped one of my DFI nb fans and it runs ~10*C cooler than my other rig with pretty much the exact same setup.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Welcome aboard new Club Officers!



















Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, if it was just the memory voltage that was changed then the processor itself should be fine. The IMC only receives voltage increases if you change the "CPU-NB" value. It's separate from VDimm.


 Goes to show you how much I've been reading about AM3







. I did at first but then said I'll just figure it out when I get it.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Goes to show you how much I've been reading about AM3







. I did at first but then said I'll just figure it out when I get it.










BlackOmega, there is actually not a whole lot new to learn in terms of overclocking settings. There are just a few more things to consider. The steppings/IMC revisions are different. Most of that info I acquired just from reading and talking to Tator.

Good luck bud


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

@Blackomega, yeah i used Arctic Silver Acrylic when i reseated the NB cooler. It isn't fancy but it was all i had around.

I can give you the model number once i go back to my GF's house tomorrow. She gets free power and i have my two folding computers there. I'm at my house using this compaq 2.8 ghz celly


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, there is actually not a whole lot new to learn in terms of overclocking settings. There are just a few more things to consider. The steppings/IMC revisions are different. Most of that info I acquired just from reading and talking to Tator.

Good luck bud









Yeah from what I've "heard" there are a couple more frequencies to adjust. I'm sure I'll find out in a lot more detail when I get mine. **Prays CFX lasts till Nov.***

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary* 
@Blackomega, yeah i used Arctic Silver Acrylic when i reseated the NB cooler. It isn't fancy but it was all i had around.

I can give you the model number once i go back to my GF's house tomorrow. She gets free power and i have my two folding computers there. I'm at my house using this compaq 2.8 ghz celly









Does yours have the heat pipe or the fan? If it's the fan then I'd highly recommend lapping it if you have issues with temp. I was going to lap the other 2 rigs I have but have been too busy with other stuff.

Model number isn't really all that important as long as it been reseated. The stock stuff was probably as hard as a rock.


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

he's talking about my PSU model number









And mine is just the fan type but i replaced the crap little one with a beefy 40~mm one off a cooler master heatsink. My NB stays around 20-30


----------



## Blitz6804

Were you very careful in spreading the Arctic Silver 5 on the chipset? If you have any overspill, the Arctic Silver 5 could potentially be shorting something. I think your symptoms are mild for a short, but it never hurts to double check.

Club Officers: I will fix the off-site roster later today. Perhaps one of you would like to help me finally convert the roster from the semi-broken state it is in to a fully functioning roster again. Just PM me if interested.


----------



## HothBase

With all the AM3 talk going on, I'd like to ask a question.








You often see AM3 motherboards supporting all the official Phenom II RAM speeds up to 1333MHz together with something like "1600MHz (O.C.)".
I wonder, in order to run 1600MHz do you need to adjust your CPU frequency like on 939 or is there simply an added divider for that?

More on topic, gratz to our new officers and many thanks to the "retired" ones.
I'm mostly hanging around the Hardware News section nowadays but I still try to keep up with this thread as often as I can.
Can't wait for the HD5k reviews.









By the way, I can recommend this news post for those who have not read about it. It's pretty interesting and I'm having a pretty good time reading the comments.








OCN - [EC]EU Reveals Intel Antitrust Emails 
I've already seen a couple of you other 939 members in there.


----------



## Blitz6804

When it says "1600 MHz (O.C.)," I believe that means it is certified to run DDR3-1600 RAM, but the highest divider possible is 1333 MHz. Thus, it should in theory be able to run a 240 MHz HTT while on the 1333 MHz divider.

EDIT: I just did some googling and found this:









(Brought to you by Guru3d)

As you can see, his HTT is 200 and he is running DDR3-1600 natively. This is 8 GB (4x2 GB) of RAM on a Gigabyte GA-MA790XT-UD4P. Now we know.


----------



## Tator Tot

Blitz is right on both accounts.

Boards that have a DDR3 1600mhz "divider" are actually pushing a divider on the CPU that shouldn't neccisarily work.

But it does, just because you are really only overclocking the RAM. But once you start to overclock, it gets harder to run 1600mhz & an overclock above 3.6ghz.

Though, boards that I've used that have been able to do 3.8ghz CPU/1600mhzRAM/2600mhz NB are the Gigabyte 790XT, Gigabyte 790FXT, & Asus M4A79T-Deluxe.


----------



## HothBase

Thanks for the replies!
I still have a lot of research to do when it comes to AM3 boards. At the moment I'm looking for possible candidates for my next rig, something around $120, nothing too fancy, that can take on something like 240x15 on an X3 with 1600MHz RAM. Shouldn't be too hard, should it?
I don't care about CF/SLI options btw.


----------



## Blitz6804

I have the sneaky suspicion you do a lot of testing Tator. Building client rigs or something?


----------



## Tator Tot

If you need some help Hothbase I usually have some good info on the AM3 products out their.

I've owned and tested a few different ones.

Though, some of my results are pretty limited just because I got some nice "hand picked" chips. Paid a premium for them though.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I have the sneaky suspicion you do a lot of testing Tator. Building client rigs or something?

I've probably build about 80% of all the custom rigs in the area.

Rebuilt about 30% of all the OEM machines.

And built quite a few myself. Just for personal use.

I've got my AM3 rig comming up with a 6 core if they release on time. Though, I already have a nice hand picked i7 920 DO & Foxconn Bloodrage just chillling.

I also have a huge number of cases and such sitting around.

It does help that I've started a review site as well, so I didn't have to buy everything. And I used to review for a site that's shut down. Part of the reason why I had so many HIS IceQ cards for awhile.

I did some nice talking with Arctic Cooling & HIS to get those cards.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
But once you start to overclock, it gets harder to run 1600mhz & an overclock above 3.6ghz.

Though, boards that I've used that have been able to do 3.8ghz CPU/1600mhzRAM/2600mhz NB are the Gigabyte 790XT, Gigabyte 790FXT, & Asus M4A79T-Deluxe.

Tator, yeah very rarely have I seen a AM3 setup with a decently high processor overclock with 800Mhz memory. So it looks like ddr3-1600 would be a smart choice in terms of headroom. For me at least it'll be good since I'll be going with a 945 which does not have a unlocked multi hehe.


----------



## Tator Tot

Yep.

And just to clarify.

AMD"s IMC Design should not allow for a 1600mhz Divider, but Mobo makers figured out that on a stock clock, a 1600mhz divider should work.


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Were you very careful in spreading the Arctic Silver 5 on the chipset? If you have any overspill, the Arctic Silver 5 could potentially be shorting something. I think your symptoms are mild for a short, but it never hurts to double check.

Club Officers: I will fix the off-site roster later today. Perhaps one of you would like to help me finally convert the roster from the semi-broken state it is in to a fully functioning roster again. Just PM me if interested.

it was the cream stuff that is non conductive. I haven't had any problems since i put everything to stock *SIGH, SUCH A SIGH*


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


...It's pretty interesting and I'm having a pretty good time reading the comments.








OCN - [EC]EU Reveals Intel Antitrust Emails 
I've already seen a couple of you other 939 members in there.


I was going to jump in with both feet as the kids just don't seem to get it. There is a reason that Anti-Trust laws exist. but ducky is doing a good job of explaining that so I've just broken out the popcorn.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


I was going to jump in with both feet as the kids just don't seem to get it. There is a reason that Anti-Trust laws exist. but ducky is doing a good job of explaining that so I've just broken out the popcorn.




















Hue knows how to do it, no need for 5 of us to ramble off to the same people.

But we wait to provide backup


----------



## Blitz6804

Trust me Hue, I was sitting in class at the time (Local Gov't Law if it matters) squealing with glee when I saw that case.

BigpoppaFrary: If it was non-conductive, then it was not Arctic Silver 5. At least we know a short is not your problem.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


..But we wait to provide backup


















Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


...I was sitting in class at the time (Local Gov't Law if it matters) squealing with glee when I saw that case....


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


BigpoppaFrary: If it was non-conductive, then it was not Arctic Silver 5. At least we know a short is not your problem.


Blitz, what exactly does AS5 need to touch in order for it to cause a short? The reason I ask is because I've accidentally gotten it on a few things in the past but never really noticed any issues....


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, what exactly does AS5 need to touch in order for it to cause a short? The reason I ask is because I've accidentally gotten it on a few things in the past but never really noticed any issues....


Basically any two things with current.


----------



## BlackOmega

Thlnk3r, he might be referring to the exposed pins on the NB.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Basically any two things with current.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Thlnk3r, he might be referring to the exposed pins on the NB.


Thanks for the clarification. Perhaps I'm just lucky after making those "accidental mistakes"


----------



## Blitz6804

That is what I was going for BlackOmega.


----------



## mattliston

hmm, stock clocks, with the 6600 got me =1100. OC'd got me 1400

wonder how much my new 7900gt will get me


----------



## Revir

Hey guys, so I was running SLI just fine on my old XP 32bit. Then I installed 7 to give it a try, love it. But the SLI doesn't work. I'm actually fine with that. I just wanna run my one 8600gt 256mb as a dedicated physics card. Can anyone lend me a helping hand? I have a nf4 SLI Infinity dfi board. Socket 939 of course. AMD Athlon 64 x2 4200 2.21ghz.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Revir* 
Hey guys, so I was running SLI just fine on my old XP 32bit. Then I installed 7 to give it a try, love it. But the SLI doesn't work. I'm actually fine with that. I just wanna run my one 8600gt 256mb as a dedicated physics card. Can anyone lend me a helping hand? I have a nf4 SLI Infinity dfi board. Socket 939 of course. AMD Athlon 64 x2 4200 2.21ghz.

Rev, out of curiosity do both of the GPUs show up in the device manager?


----------



## Revir

Yeah both do show up in the device manager. But one says that it can't use any resources. The actual message says

This device cannot find enough free resources that it can use. (Code 12)

If you want to use this device, you will need to disable one of the other devices on this system.


----------



## BlackOmega

Have you tried reinstalling the driver? Using an older version? Is there a BIOS setting that you need to enable/disable?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I've been thinking about Revir's issue, and it's got me quite puzzled.

A Google search suggests that something you can do is disable as many unneeded resources (printer ports; unused PCI slots; other peripheral resources that aren't being utilized, basically) as possible. You can do this both in Device Manager and in the BIOS (I'd do that in the BIOS first, then do the same in Device Manager).

Also, to help us help you, it would be advisable for you to click your User Control Panel (User CP), navigate down the left side of the page to "Add System," and fill the blanks in as completely as you can. It will go a long way towards facilitating everyone in the process of helping you out.

Good luck.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mattliston*


wonder how much my new 7900gt will get me


Mattliston, well there is only one way to find out









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Revir*


Hey guys, so I was running SLI just fine on my old XP 32bit. Then I installed 7 to give it a try, love it. But the SLI doesn't work. I'm actually fine with that. I just wanna run my one 8600gt 256mb as a dedicated physics card. Can anyone lend me a helping hand? I have a nf4 SLI Infinity dfi board. Socket 939 of course. AMD Athlon 64 x2 4200 2.21ghz.


Revir, make sure you have the latest driver set. I believe 190.62 offers SLI support under Windows 7. Previous versions when Windows 7 first released did not offer SLI support. How old is your Windows 7 build? Remember that operating system still hasn't "technically" been released (a final "bug free" release).

Good luck


----------



## chrisme52

Hey everyone.
This is my first system build from scratch.
I went with an older board cause I don't need cutting edge performance or anything as i don't really play games. Has anyone had any experience with the abit fatality an8 sli mobo? I've overclocked my athlon 64x2 4200 (2.2) to 2.6 and it seems to be running fine at 1.55v. Can running at a high voltage damge the cpu or shrink its lifespan? and is it worth upgrading to an opteron 2.4g?

Thanks
Chris


----------



## mattliston

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chrisme52*


Hey everyone.
This is my first system build from scratch.
I went with an older board cause I don't need cutting edge performance or anything as i don't really play games. Has anyone had any experience with the abit fatality an8 sli mobo? I've overclocked my athlon 64x2 4200 (2.2) to 2.6 and it seems to be running fine at 1.55v. Can running at a high voltage damge the cpu or shrink its lifespan? and is it worth upgrading to an opteron 2.4g?

Thanks
Chris


since you dont play games, prime95 would be a good way to check stability

also realize, you dont need 1.55 volts for that small of an overclock. bring the volts back down to 1.4 to reduce temps for increased life.

glad you started with an older system, they can be more friendly to overclock learning









the nice thing about 939's is that they usually run bigger processors that can take the voltage, as long as you keep them cool.

download prime95 and run it, no need to mess with the settings. it has a temperature display, jsut be sure your temps dont go above 60C.

ways to reduce temps is to reduce voltage. I would say decrease the voltage a little bit, run prime 95, and decrease it a little more, run it, until you get errors. then increase the voltage by a little bit for good measure.

there are several overclockign guides on here, ahve fun reading


----------



## chrisme52

I couldn't find the temp display in prime95.

I dropped the voltage down but kubuntu won't load under 1.5v.

Its running pretty hot with my cheap cooler - 50 when idle (like now) but jumps to 60 with full screen video(streaming flash).

How hot is to hot?
Shall i scale back my overclock? and will a quality cooler make a difference?

Thanks


----------



## Blitz6804

chrisme52: Your E4 Athlon64 x2 4200+ has a theoretical maximum safe temperature of 71Âº C. I personally like to deduct 1Âº C per 25 mV over spec, so in your case, under 62Âº C at full load. (This is just me being cautious; as far as I know, no-one else uses this curve.) A quality cooler can make as much of a 10Âº C difference from a cheap one. Lapping both surfaces can net you as much as 5Âº C as well, permitting you to keep the voltage up without the temperatures doing the same. Idle will ideally be sub-forty; around 35Âº C or cooler is great if you can get it.

Revir: You have 3 GB of RAM and two graphics cards. For fun, have you tried removing a gigabyte? Is it 2x1024 + 2x512 MB, or 3x1024 MB? If there are three DIMMs, you really should remove one; 2 GB in dual channel beats 3 GB in single channel in my opinion. A 32-bit OS (like the XP you had) can only see 4 GB of address space overall. If your Windows 7 is also 32-bit, this is what I think is causing you problems. Try going in the BIOS and enabling "RAM hole remap" or similar. Make sure that 4 GB support is also enabled in the BIOS just in case. My theory is, with 3 GB installed, there is no more address space to assign to the second card. (3 GB of RAM + 0.25 GB for GPU0 = 3.25 GB, the maximum I have seen Vista x86 recognize; XP x86 can recognize up to 3.5 GB in some cases, which is why you did not have a problem in XP.)


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chrisme52* 
Hey everyone.
This is my first system build from scratch.
I went with an older board cause I don't need cutting edge performance or anything as i don't really play games. Has anyone had any experience with the abit fatality an8 sli mobo? I've overclocked my athlon 64x2 4200 (2.2) to 2.6 and it seems to be running fine at 1.55v. Can running at a high voltage damge the cpu or shrink its lifespan? and is it worth upgrading to an opteron 2.4g?

Thanks
Chris









As was said I think you shouldn't need that voltage. What type cooler are you using?


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

that is my TIM

Ever since i put everything to stock it runs great though







The onboard sound hasn't gone out once.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary* 







that is my TIM

Ever since i put everything to stock it runs great though







The onboard sound hasn't gone out once.

IIRC that should be on the pci bus so are you changing the pci bus sped? It should stay locked at 33.


----------



## Blitz6804

He is using integrated sound, not a dedicated sound card. I would advocate going and buying a cheap sound card (like $30 likely) and forgoing the integrated.


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

Yeah i did, i just have yet to install it. Today i'm busy with college all day then gotta be up at 6 for work.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


If your Windows 7 is also 32-bit, this is what I think is causing you problems. Try going in the BIOS and enabling "RAM hole remap" or similar. Make sure that 4 GB support is also enabled in the BIOS just in case. My theory is, with 3 GB installed, there is no more address space to assign to the second card. (3 GB of RAM + 0.25 GB for GPU0 = 3.25 GB, the maximum I have seen Vista x86 recognize; XP x86 can recognize up to 3.5 GB in some cases, which is why you did not have a problem in XP.)


If this is the case then it's just one more reason for me to diss Win 7. Vista is Ram hungry I thought M$ fixed that w/Win 7. It makes sense to me that this could be the problem.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


If this is the case then it's just one more reason for me to diss Win 7. Vista is Ram hungry I thought M$ fixed that w/Win 7. It makes sense to me that this could be the problem.


7 isn't RAM hungry, aka, constant 50% use.

32Bit can only detect up to 4GB of max RAM. Which includes VRAM, RAM, Page File (and if you're a server a few other things as well)


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


7 isn't RAM hungry, aka, constant 50% use.

32Bit can only detect up to 4GB of max RAM. Which includes VRAM, RAM, Page File (and if you're a server a few other things as well)


i thought it was 3.5


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


7 isn't RAM hungry, aka, constant 50% use.

32Bit can only detect up to 4GB of max RAM. Which includes VRAM, RAM, Page File (and if you're a server a few other things as well)


So what is the minimum amount ram needed to install and run Win 7 x86 properly?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary*


i thought it was 3.5


Total system ram is 4GB in X86 os's but you have to deduct the amount of ram that your periferals will be using. At least that is how I understand it...


----------



## Blitz6804

That is correct N2Gaming. With 4 GB and a 512 MB GPU in XP, I saw 3.5 GB. In Vista with the same hardware, it saw 3.25 GB. If you used two 512 MB GPUs, you would assume you would see 3.0 GB and 2.75 GB respectively. If your soundcard has RAM (some X-Fi's do) you would decrease as well. Theoretically, HD 4870x2 CrossfireX (four GPUs) would be impossible to do on a 32-bit system, because the graphics cards alone would want 4 GB of RAM. More likely, one card will be used, 1.75 GB of system memory will be available, and the other graphics card would refuse to be used, citing a lack of resources.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chrisme52* 
Can running at a high voltage damge the cpu or shrink its lifespan? and is it worth upgrading to an opteron 2.4g?

Chrisme52, high voltages over time can shorten the life span of the processor. This is normally referred to as "Electromigration". Would a Opteron 180 be a wise upgrade? May be so. The Denmark core comes with 1MB of L2 cache on each core. Your Manchester only has 512KB of L2 cache per core. The difference in negligible and probably only noticeable in benchmarks but every little bit helps. In terms of overclocking it's kind of a hit and miss. The Manchester core requires quite a bit of voltage when you hit 2.6 - 2.7Ghz. The Opteron 180 has a nice multiplier to play with but typical overclocks with that processor haven't always been impressive not to mention the purchasing price will be high.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
If this is the case then it's just one more reason for me to diss Win 7. Vista is Ram hungry I thought M$ fixed that w/Win 7. It makes sense to me that this could be the problem.

N2Gaming, Joe I think sent me a whole article on how Vista handles memory. It's completely different from what went on with XP. It's in my favorites folder at home so I can't recall the link. Maybe Joe can post up the link when he pops in.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
That is correct N2Gaming. With 4 GB and a 512 MB GPU in XP, I saw 3.5 GB. In Vista with the same hardware, it saw 3.25 GB. If you used two 512 MB GPUs, you would assume you would see 3.0 GB and 2.75 GB respectively.

Blitz, I think that is just a OS limitation. Technically I'm not sure if it has anything to do with video card. If so include some documentation/links, I wouldn't mind reading about this topic









Good luck guys


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
So what is the minimum amount ram needed to install and run Win 7 x86 properly?

To browse the web and office tasks, 2GB I would say.

And a strong Single core ~ 1.8-2.0ghz IE: Core 2 Solo, Athlon 64, Sempron K10.5


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
He is using integrated sound, not a dedicated sound card. I would advocate going and buying a cheap sound card (like $30 likely) and forgoing the integrated.

Doesn't matter that it's onboard. It's still run off the pci bus.


----------



## Blitz6804

True enough. I tend to find more issues with onboard in my experience though.


----------



## shadow_419

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
snip.

Blitz, I think that is just a OS limitation. Technically I'm not sure if it has anything to do with video card. If so include some documentation/links, I wouldn't mind reading about this topic









Good luck guys

Not Blitz but :

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/929605/en-us


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shadow_419*


Not Blitz but :

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/929605/en-us


Shadow_419, taken from the link above:

Quote:



An x64 (64-bit) version of Windows Vista must be used.


As far as I know, for Vista 32-bit it's just a OS limitation.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

If you have a system with PAE (Windows Server for example) you could technically get around this with the virtual extra bits. So I am with Thlnk3r in that it is not a per se 32-bit limitation, but a limitation of a 32-bit operating system. One without a software workaround to a hardware limitation.


----------



## shadow_419

Blitz isn't entirely correct but not entirely wrong either. The total available/visible ram to 32 bit windows does decrease depending on how much vram there is, but two 4870x2's are only really using 1GB since the same information is mapped across all four 1GB vram buffers.
Example: 2 512MB cards in sli or xfire don't equal 1GB of vram but 512MB of vram with the same info on both cards.


----------



## Blitz6804

Thanks shadow_419, my morbid curiosity requires me to install XP x86 when I get home now. Thanks a lot.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shadow_419*


Blitz isn't entirely correct but not entirely wrong either. The total available/visible ram to 32 bit windows does decrease depending on how much vram there is, but two 4870x2's are only really using 1GB since the same information is mapped across all four 1GB vram buffers.
Example: 2 512MB cards in sli or xfire don't equal 1GB of vram but 512MB of vram with the same info on both cards.


Shadow_419, do you have any MS documentation/links to sources ect that goes over this topic? I'm a little curious. Why would my system memory decrease depending on the vram size? Is this only noticeable on systems with video cards running 512MB+ memory? I never saw a change when I ran my 4850...


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Shadow_419, do you have any MS documentation/links to sources ect that goes over this topic? I'm a little curious. Why would my system memory decrease depending on the vram size? Is this only noticeable on systems with video cards running 512MB+ memory? I never saw a change when I ran my 4850...










It's a known fact of what contributes to your overall system RAM.

Also, he is right on the Xfire/SLi note as well, because GPU VRAM when in CrossfireX or SLi is more or less like a RAID 1 array between hard drives. Not for the same purpose, but when the system reads it, it doesn't read a combined value.


----------



## Blitz6804

So the theory is, if I am using the two HD 4870x2s in CrossfireX, I will have 2.75 GB of RAM (all four are mirrored, 1 GB total VRam), and if not in CrossfireX, I will have 1.75 GB of RAM (2 pairs are mirrored)?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shadow_419*


Blitz isn't entirely correct but not entirely wrong either. The total available/visible ram to 32 bit windows does decrease depending on how much vram there is, but two 4870x2's are only really using 1GB since the same information is mapped across all four 1GB vram buffers.
Example: 2 512MB cards in sli or xfire don't equal 1GB of vram but 512MB of vram with the same info on both cards.


I was thinking the same thing but don't have any proof to back up this idea other then to say that I have been told in several different threads that even though one might have 2x 1GB vid cards the total vid memory is still only going to be 1GB. I Never really understand why we have to use identical memory sizes on our video cards if we only get to use the amount of one card.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Chrisme52, high voltages over time can shorten the life span of the processor. This is normally referred to as "Electromigration". Would a Opteron 180 be a wise upgrade? May be so. The Denmark core comes with 1MB of L2 cache on each core. Your Manchester only has 512KB of L2 cache per core. The difference in negligible and probably only noticeable in benchmarks but every little bit helps. In terms of overclocking it's kind of a hit and miss. The Manchester core requires quite a bit of voltage when you hit 2.6 - 2.7Ghz. The Opteron 180 has a nice multiplier to play with but typical overclocks with that processor haven't always been impressive not to mention the purchasing price will be high.


 Thlnker, I personally notice a difference between the L2 caches. Clock for clock when comparing my opty 180 and my 3800x2, the 180 has noticeably less "stutter" at higher resolutions with all the bells and whistles on.

In regards to overclocking, it seems to me as though that most of the LCB*E steppings tend to overclock very well with little voltage. However, used ones might not fare so well especially if overheated.


----------



## Blitz6804

Thlnk3r: I agree with BlackOmega. The cache difference can be felt at the keyboard. Clock-for-clock, my Brisbane (512 KB) lost to my Toledo (1024 KB). The Brisbane's saving grace was that it could clock higher.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Thlnk3r: I agree with BlackOmega. The cache difference can be felt at the keyboard. Clock-for-clock, my Brisbane (512 KB) lost to my Toledo (1024 KB). The Brisbane's saving grace was that it could clock higher.


Blitz, really? My Opteron 170 versus my Opteron 146 I really didn't notice a difference at the keyboard level. Maybe you guys are running different software that actually uses the L2 cache more efficiently?

Tator, I'll shoot you a PM with more questions. I'd rather not fill up this section with questions


----------



## Blitz6804

I am very hard-pressed to believe that Thlnk3r. (No offense.) Both have 1 MB cache per core, true, but the Opteron 146 lacks a core entirely.


----------



## shadow_419

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Shadow_419, do you have any MS documentation/links to sources ect that goes over this topic? I'm a little curious. Why would my system memory decrease depending on the vram size? Is this only noticeable on systems with video cards running 512MB+ memory? I never saw a change when I ran my 4850...










Sorry bud, but I can't find anything right now. I do know that when I went from a 7900gs 256MB to a 9800gt 512MB my total system ram in task manager dropped by 256MB (3.25GB vs. 3.5GB) in xp 32-bit.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I was thinking the same thing but don't have any proof to back up this idea other then to say that I have been told in several different threads that even though one might have 2x 1GB vid cards the total vid memory is still only going to be 1GB. I Never really understand why we have to use identical memory sizes on our video cards if we only get to use the amount of one card.


The reason vram doesn't double when running sli/xfire is because essentially each card is rendering the same frame. Therefore each card has to have the same data in vram. Sli/Xfire just split up the frame so that each card can finish the work faster. Instead of rendering the entire frame they each render half of the same frame and then display it as one frame. The faster the cards finish the more fps you get.


----------



## Blitz6804

So shadow_419, if you are doing AFR, would not then you have less RAM available? In AFR, each card is rendering its own frame and they take turns which one displays its frame next.


----------



## BlackOmega

thlnk3r, I know what you're saying. With my 3500+ it ran most everything, including most games, flawlessly. However, the more demanding games/applications there is a noticeable slowdown when there is a lot of action. It's most noticeable when going from a single core to a dual, it is still noticeable with different cache sizes, but not as much. Only with VERY intensive situations, like a 64 man server with lots of action at one time.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shadow_419* 
The reason vram doesn't double when running sli/xfire is because essentially each card is rendering the same frame. Therefore each card has to have the same data in vram. Sli/Xfire just split up the frame so that each card can finish the work faster. Instead of rendering the entire frame they each render half of the same frame and then display it as one frame. The faster the cards finish the more fps you get.

Actually, that's not always true. My old 6800's do in fact combine their memory. It even shows up in GPUz as doubled when they're SLI'd.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I am very hard-pressed to believe that Thlnk3r. (No offense.) Both have 1 MB cache per core, true, but the Opteron 146 lacks a core entirely.

Blitz, we're talking keyboard level here. Everyone is different. Perhaps it's the placebo effect (more cores the better)?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shadow_419* 
Sorry bud, but I can't find anything right now. I do know that when I went from a 7900gs 256MB to a 9800gt 512MB my total system ram in task manager dropped by 256MB (3.25GB vs. 3.5GB) in xp 32-bit.

Shadow, no worries man. I'll do some googling to see what I can find out. Pretty interesting though. Currently I have a 256MB card. If in the future I pick up a 512MB card I'll recheck my task manager to see what changes.

Thanks for bringing up the topic though


----------



## Blitz6804

Going from my San Diego 3700+ (single core, 1024 KB L2 cache, 2200 MHz) to my Toledo 4400+ (dual core, 1024 KB L2 cache per core, 2200 MHz) I felt an improvement in Windows in boot time, program load time, overall system responsiveness, et cetera. Maybe on a brand new, fresh install of Windows things may be different; when I swapped from my Sandy to my Toledo, the install was a year or three old at that point. I can try some experiments later in disabling cores and booting Windows/several programs, but I am sure the results are not worth the effort.


----------



## shadow_419

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
snip.
Shadow, no worries man. I'll do some googling to see what I can find out. Pretty interesting though. Currently I have a 256MB card. If in the future I pick up a 512MB card I'll recheck my task manager to see what changes.

Thanks for bringing up the topic though









With your current config (2 x 1GB), it wouldn't make a difference. It's only when you close in on the 4GB limit of 32-bit addressing.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I can try some experiments later in disabling cores and booting Windows/several programs, but I am sure the results are not worth the effort.


Blitz, or you could just believe me when I said I didn't notice a difference









Quote:



Originally Posted by *shadow_419*


With your current config (2 x 1GB), it wouldn't make a difference. It's only when you close in on the 4GB limit of 32-bit addressing.


Shadow, ahhh ok that makes sense then. The highest amount of memory I've ever ran was 2GB so that is probably why I didn't notice.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Sorry for the OT, guys, but an FYI for y'all: I've just received news of a death in the family. As a result, I'll be mostly away for the next week or so. I'll take care of the revision to our thread's first post (reflecting our new officers and such) as soon as I have the time to do so.

Thanks.


----------



## Blitz6804

Do not worry about it Joe; Thlnk3r and I can handle it. Be safe in traveling.


----------



## N2Gaming

Sorry to hear the news joe. That is never pleasant to hear, hope you can stay strong. C ya when your back.


----------



## thlnk3r

Joe, sorry to hear the bad news. I hope everything is ok.

Take it ez bud!


----------



## Syrillian

My condolences, Joe.


----------



## Tator Tot

Take care of what ya need to Joe, it's never and easy task to rally the troupes for those events.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Sorry for the OT, guys, but an FYI for y'all: I've just received news of a death in the family. As a result, I'll be mostly away for the next week or so. I'll take care of the revision to our thread's first post (reflecting our new officers and such) as soon as I have the time to do so.

Thanks.


----------



## Blitz6804

Off-site roster has been updated. chrisme52 is now an official off-site member.

*BlackOmega* is now a "*Club Officer; enthusiastic tester*"
*Hueristic* is now a "*Club Officer; sage voice of wisdom and experience*"
and lastly (but not leastly; it is simply alphabetical)
*N2Gaming* is now a "*Club Officer; official club greeter*"

These "subtitles" (after "Club Officer") are tentative and subject to change on better suggestions. If you have a specific thing you would like, please PM me and I will make the change hastily.

My congrats to the new appointees, I hope you steer her well.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Off-site roster has been updated. chrisme52 is now an official off-site member.

*BlackOmega* is now a "*Club Officer; enthusiastic tester*"
*Hueristic* is now a "*Club Officer; sage voice of wisdom and experience*"
and lastly (but not leastly; it is simply alphabetical)
*N2Gaming* is now a "*Club Officer; official club greeter*"

These "subtitles" (after "Club Officer") are tentative and subject to change on better suggestions. If you have a specific thing you would like, please PM me and I will make the change hastily.

My congrats to the new appointees, I hope you steer her well.


I woulda expected "Resident Lunatic"


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Sorry for the OT, guys, but an FYI for y'all: I've just received news of a death in the family. As a result, I'll be mostly away for the next week or so. I'll take care of the revision to our thread's first post (reflecting our new officers and such) as soon as I have the time to do so.

Thanks.










 My sincerest condolences Joe.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Off-site roster has been updated. chrisme52 is now an official off-site member.

*BlackOmega* is now a "*Club Officer; enthusiastic tester*"
*Hueristic* is now a "*Club Officer; sage voice of wisdom and experience*"
and lastly (but not leastly; it is simply alphabetical)
*N2Gaming* is now a "*Club Officer; official club greeter*"

These "subtitles" (after "Club Officer") are tentative and subject to change on better suggestions. If you have a specific thing you would like, please PM me and I will make the change hastily.

My congrats to the new appointees, I hope you steer her well.


I can be an enthusiastic tester


----------



## Hueristic

Don't get caught.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Don't get caught.










I should've expected that from you


----------



## GuardianOdin

Sorry to hear that Joe,we'll hold the fort down for ya.


----------



## thlnk3r

BlackOmega, leave it for the OT section or possibly PM's. This is definitely not a technology related discussion


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, leave it for the OT section or possibly PM's. This is definitely not a technology related discussion










 You got it sir. I'll edit for content


----------



## chrisme52

Well my ahtlon 4200 x2 at 2.6 is running very well and stable.
But the temps are getting to high. I rendered an HD video and the temp kept climbing up to and beyond 70! (so i obviously stopped) but on idle the temps only 40. Is such a large range normal? is there anytihng specific that can reduce temp?
I'm seriously looking at a quality cooler. is there anything to look for?
any good models?

Thanks for all your help guys.


----------



## chrisme52

also whats a good aplication to see temps in xp?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chrisme52*


Well my ahtlon 4200 x2 at 2.6 is running very well and stable.
But the temps are getting to high. I rendered an HD video and the temp kept climbing up to and beyond 70! (so i obviously stopped) but on idle the temps only 40. Is such a large range normal? is there anything specific that can reduce temp?
I'm seriously looking at a quality cooler. is there anything to look for?
any good models?


Chrisme52, the large range of temperatures is probably due to poor cooling (lower quality cpu cooler). What kind of cooler do you have now? Sometimes lapping both surfaces (HSF and IHS) can help out a lot. The biggest change would be in your full load temperatures. If the airflow in your case is poor then that can also effect your load temperatures.

Here's a cooler that I've been hearing good things about: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835233003. I currently have a Thermalright SI-128 (lapped). It's a great cooler. It kept my Opteron 170 under 55C with a 26C room ambient.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chrisme52*


also whats a good application to see temps in xp?


Have a look at Everest. This is the one I use for everything.

Hope that helps


----------



## chrisme52

Ive just got a deepcool cheap one. It says on box that it will do an amd 5400.

Whats this lapping stuff?

I don't buy software unless i really have to (hence why i use linux), so do have an alternative to everest?


----------



## chrisme52

and my case has 1 intake fan and 2 outake-one on the back and one above the cpu cooler. there all 120mm fans with some serious airflow.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chrisme52*


Whats this lapping stuff?

I don't buy software unless i really have to (hence why i use linux), so do have an alternative to everest?


Chrisme52, here is the guide that I followed when I started lapping: http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...ltake-big.html. If your current cooler has a poor surface (ie. if it's concave/convex or if the surface has scratches and dings) then lapping will get rid of those imperfections. This process is suppose to make the surface of your cooler flatter. Flatness means better contact with your processor which usually results in better temperatures. It's also recommended that you lap the IHS (integrated heatspreader). Lapping the IHS however will void your warranty.

Everest can be downloaded via Free trial for 30 days I believe. If you prefer free versions then have a look at Coretemp, Speedfan and HWMonitor.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chrisme52*


and my case has 1 intake fan and 2 outake-one on the back and one above the cpu cooler. there all 120mm fans with some serious airflow.


How about your cable management? Poor cable management can weaken the flow of air inside your case. This can also result in "dead spots" as well.

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Chris, what are you ambient temps?

In regards to coolers, the one that thlnk3r posted up is a very good cooler. However, for the same price you could get a Scythe Mugen 2. It outperforms that other cooler.

In regards to temperature monitoring, use coretemp.

Also, lapping your CPU is _the best_ way (IMO) to improve temps. Lapping is sanding your CPUs integrated heat sink (IHS) perfectly flat and _very_ smooth to create better contact between the CPU and the heat sink (cooler). It'll go from looking like this to this.

















Watch this guide.

  
 



  



 
 .


----------



## Blitz6804

chrisme52: Having owned one, I can tell you that an Athlon64 X2 5400+ is a much cooler-running processor than anything in the 939 flavor. To buttress Thlnk3r, the Thermalright SI-128 is a pretty decent cooler (the SI-128se is better though), if not a little pricy. On sale, I got mine for $45 without a fan, and then paid another $10 to get a bolt-down bracket rather than the stock clip.

CoreTemp might work in wine, I am not sure. Also, look into lm_sensors with gnome-applet-sensors. I have heard some good things about it, but I have not tried it myself. Furthermore, HWMon is similar*, and I believe HWMon is freeware. (It is also the program of choice for member "pez.")

Thlnk3r: Yep, Everest Ultimate is 30-day trialware. After 30 days, you either uninstall, or pay $20 to keep it. That $20 gets you all updates in the family. (You can update Everest 5.0 to 5.1 or 5.4 for free; but when they come out with 6.x, it is time for a new license.)

*To Everest


----------



## nategr8ns

all of this talk of multi-gpus makes me want to sli 8800GTs... If I SLI modded my board would i be able to see if it works before I buy another 88gt?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chrisme52* 
and my case has 1 intake fan and 2 outake-one on the back and one above the cpu cooler. there all 120mm fans with some serious airflow.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
all of this talk of multi-gpus makes me want to sli 8800GTs... If I SLI modded my board would i be able to see if it works before I buy another 88gt?

BO can answer that.


----------



## kyleax1

I own a x2 4400+ and am running it at stock speeds.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chrisme52*


and my case has 1 intake fan and 2 outake-one on the back and one above the cpu cooler. there all 120mm fans with some serious airflow.


 Chris I've found the fans in the top of the case whether being intake or exhaust, usually disrupt airflow and actually make temps worse. 1 component or another, whether it be the PWM IC's or NB or the cpu itself. Now this is what I've found with my CM590, however with your Tuniq that might be a different story. Thats a nice looking case BTW.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


all of this talk of multi-gpus makes me want to sli 8800GTs... If I SLI modded my board would i be able to see if it works before I buy another 88gt?


 Nate there's not really a way to "test" it. The only thing that you can check for is continuity between the 2 pins using a multi-tester/voltmeter. 
When you go to solder it (pencil mod didn't work for me), tape off all of the surrounding area to ensure that the solder doesn't contact one of the other pins it's not supposed to.

I tested both of my boards using my 6800's and it worked just fine. Although, I did have to restart it a couple times. Don't forget to move the jumpers.
Good Luck









PS: Nate be sure to use a 15w soldering iron. The 30w soldering iron is too hot. I managed to use one but I had to be _extremely_ careful. Just take your time and you'll be alright.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kyleax1* 
I own a x2 4400+ and am running it at stock speeds.

Kyleax1, welcome to the club. Would it be possible for you to include a cpu-z screen shot or validation link of your setup? I need this information in order for me to add you to the roster.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Greeting all from the Greeter.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Greeting all from the Greeter.


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

To The Cheers guy


----------



## chrisme52

kubuntu has temp monitor allready built in (pretty handy aye)

my case temp is around 26 (in a 20 room)

also when i mentioned the fan above the cpu cooler, its on the side of the case, sucking more air away from the case. I was quite impresed with the tuniq 2 its got quite good stock coolling. Its one of these upside down cases which is a bit of a pain sometimes.


----------



## OSDCrusher

bump. lol


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OSDCrusher*


bump. lol


Oh you know your just trying to show us your new avatar.







Very nice btw.


----------



## egerds

I'm building an 939 to upgrade a cel-d 335
http://tr.im/zIO1 should redirect to
http://docs.google.com/Doc?docid=0Ad...IyNm5jaA&hl=en

Any one in the Wausau WI area able to verify if my mobo or cpu is bad for proper rma?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *egerds*


Any one in the Wausau WI area able to verify if my mobo or cpu is bad for proper rma?


Egerds, it might be easier if you described your issue here in the forums. Perhaps we can point you into the right direction for troubleshooting? Don't forget to also add your system specifications to your signature. This will let us know what type of hardware you have and what you're running.

Welcome to Overclock.net


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *egerds*


I'm building an 939 to upgrade a cel-d 335
http://tr.im/zIO1 should redirect to 
http://docs.google.com/Doc?docid=0Ad...IyNm5jaA&hl=en

Any one in the Wausau WI area able to verify if my mobo or cpu is bad for proper rma?










What Thlnk3r said.


----------



## Blitz6804

It looks as if he bought an x2 3800+ and an ASRock 939Dual-SATA2. The two together do not work, and he wants to know how to test which is the broken element. (At least, that is how I read the doc.)


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


It looks as if he bought an x2 3800+ and an ASRock 939Dual-SATA2. The two together do not work, and he wants to know how to test which is the broken element. (At least, that is how I read the doc.)


I have the exact combo running as a folder. So I should be able to help him. But I gotta run for a few, BBL.


----------



## Blitz6804

Hey Hue, were you ever interested in testing the ASRock Daughter Board for testing's sake? As I remember, the daughter board was the big seller for the ASRock 939Dual-SATA2, well, that and the ability to run PCIe or AGP graphics solutions.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Hey Hue, were you ever interested in testing the ASRock Daughter Board for testing's sake? As I remember, the daughter board was the big seller for the ASRock 939Dual-SATA2, well, that and the ability to run PCIe or AGP graphics solutions.

I've seen that thing before and I thought it was an interesting idea by ASRock.
What I don't like about it is how the CPU sits very close to the motherboard preventing the use of larger coolers.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
It looks as if he bought an x2 3800+ and an ASRock 939Dual-SATA2. The two together do not work, and he wants to know how to test which is the broken element. (At least, that is how I read the doc.)

Blitz, thank you for elaborating. Hopefully the *egerds* can pop in and give us some more details on the situation.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *egerds*


Any one in the Wausau WI area able to verify if my mobo or cpu is bad for proper rma?


Sure I live in N. Cali. I can be up there in a day or so to help you test your cpu, ram, vid card & mobo... j/k







Welcome to OCN.


----------



## egerds

wow ocn responses quick







purched the combo for 939 via ebay, i joined ocn to diagonose my 939 asrock, i thought i saw if i updated bios from 1.20.xx to current it should run x2 3800+ ada3800daa5cd, i know my 550 watt psu is good, same for ati 1950 pro and the 4 stick ocz 2-3-2-5, i want to run stock just like i'm running my q6600 g0 @ stock,







oced for a few then realized i pretty much can max out cpu unless i'm running some distro computing then went back to stock after a day.

i have no vid, no post, no beeps
shouldn't the bios beep @ all (http://www.pchell.com/hardware/beepcodes.shtml)?

the 500 watt psu http://www.ultraproducts.com/product...&productID=160 lights up and the http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1214611632685 and case fans spin up other then that nothing.

copy and p from my google doc Need a 939 mobo cpu to test my new purchases
http://docs.google.com/Doc?docid=0Ad...A0OW5mNQ&hl=en

cpu
http://www.amdcompare.com/us-en/desk...=ada3800daa5cd
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWNX:IT

mobo
http://www.asrock.com/mb/overview.as...al-SATA2&s=939
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWNX:IT
mobo cpu support
http://www.asrock.com/mb/cpu.asp?Mod...al-SATA2&s=939
mobo files
http://www.asrock.com/MB/download.as...=939Dual-SATA2

heat sink
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1214611632685
http://www.rocketfishproducts.com/sk...0ENG%20WEB.pdf

ram *4
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-210-_-Product

video
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814161071

psu
http://www.ultraproducts.com/product...&productID=160

2 80mm 84cfm case fans back
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811999612

2 80 mm hd fans generic

hard drive https://docs.google.com/Doc?docid=0A...NwbTlmNg&hl=en


----------



## Blitz6804

Have you tried pulling out two RAM DIMMs and seeing if it will POST? It may be possible that the board is not properly slowing down the RAM to DDR-333, causing the IMC to be overclocked.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Hey Hue, were you ever interested in testing the ASRock Daughter Board for testing's sake? As I remember, the daughter board was the big seller for the ASRock 939Dual-SATA2, well, that and the ability to run PCIe or AGP graphics solutions.

Actaully Blitz this is the *only* chipset that can run AGP *and* PCI-E Vid cards at the same time!







I have a physx link somewhere with a 8800gsPCI-E and my X850AGP. LOL

AFA the daughterboard, I looked into it a few times but it was cost prohibitive. $50 for an add-on board that would require cpu and ram just doesn't work unfortunately. Especially when you figure in the fact that a new board for a few bucks more will be upgradeable from there.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Sure I live in N. Cali. I can be up there in a day or so to help you test your cpu, ram, vid card & mobo... j/k

































Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Have you tried pulling out two RAM DIMMs and seeing if it will POST? It may be possible that the board is not properly slowing down the RAM to DDR-333, causing the IMC to be overclocked.

I have had issues with no post and had to reseat mem a few times. But I assumed it was because of my constant tinkering. Happens to alot of my boards.









Definitely reseat everything on the board and if it doesn't boot just take everything down to the basics and if not that rip it out of the case.

Also check all the Capacitors and make sure none have gone bad. If the tops are rounded they are bad. You can google what a bad cap looks like if you don't know. And Yup you should get beep codes so that points to your cpu or mobo. Most likely Mobo. Also when you reseat components make sure your cmos is firmly in, it's not as common these days but in the old days with dipps chips used to squirrel their way out with all the expansion and contraction.

Speaking of bad caps I just replaced 2 this morning on my neighbors mobo and went nuts for an hour trying to find a 6.3v 3300uf and finally settled on a 10v one. Was a real Pita as the diameter was larger and was real tough to get it squeezed in there.


----------



## egerds

+rep blitz6804, i dug round for more ddr1, & seat in all diff slots and then left none in. finally after bout 10 sticks found nanya nt256d64s88c0g-5t that after I removed it and left no ram in, i finally got pc speaker beeps!!!


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *egerds*


+rep blitz6804, i dug round for more ddr1, & seat in all diff slots and then left none in. finally after bout 10 sticks found nanya nt256d64s88c0g-5t that after I removed it and left no ram in, i finally got pc speaker beeps!!!










Blitz knows his stuff!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*









Blitz knows his stuff!










all...


----------



## egerds

hrm will not boot if i have a 1gb ocz 2-3-2-5 in the slot closest to processor, but will with 256 or 512, i have 4 sticks for 1gb why would i not be able to boot w/ in the slot closest to processor but when i have 512 or 256 that slot passes ubuntu 9.04 memtest x64 just fine


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *egerds* 
i finally got pc speaker beeps!!!

Egerds, bios beep codes are always a good sign for troubleshooting. How many beep codes were you getting? What is the pattern?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *egerds* 
hrm will not boot if i have a 1gb ocz 2-3-2-5 in the slot closest to processor, but will with 256 or 512

Have you tried clearing the cmos? Perhaps there is a older bios setting that is preventing you from running the 1GB stick of memory. Before this particular issue did you ever have this board successfully working?

Good luck


----------



## egerds

no bios beep when i have any of the 4 1gb modules in slot closest to processor, but 256 and 512 work, can't seem to get dual chan w/ 4gb, formating nother one of my 5 750gb drive for last few hours to make sure not defective, 3 to go. um b4 i went though almost all my ddr1 modules no post no beep, prior to the nanya stick, and yes clear cmos

oh i missed Hueristic http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...ml#post7281019 that i can run nv physx and my 1950 pro, but getting 1950 pro in 6.1, just dl 
185.85


----------



## chrisme52

I've just finished lapping my athlon 64x2 4200.
My cpus used to run at around 35-41 and now its only 26 at idle!
thats with a budget cooler and grease.

I highly recommend this small mod to everyone.

Just wondering, what are the lowest cpu temps out there? and what setups?


----------



## mattliston

you cant really compare those temps unless teh ambient stayed the exact same, and before lapping, the heatsink and fan were correctly installed, or using the same thermal paste

26 is a great temp, my 3200 idles at 23-24 with my little mod lol, but then its a single core


----------



## chrisme52

same settings, same paste, and same ambient


----------



## mattliston

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chrisme52* 
same settings, same paste, and same ambient


must have been a really crappy machine lap form teh factory on the heatsink then lol

good job then man


----------



## Blitz6804

chrisme52: It would be neigh on impossible to compare anyone's temperatures in this club. We have vastly ranging ambient temperatures from txtmstrjoe's hellish summer high of 33Âº C to my own winter low of 15Âº C. As mattliston said, ambient can have a large impact on actual reported temperature.

egerds: Run memtest on each of the 1 GB DIMMs in turn in slot 2. Three loops are best. If none of them throw an error, then it is possible that the motherboard has a broken slot 1. (The obsessive compulsive can then repeat this with slot 3 and slot 4.) Also, for fun, just try cleaning out the slots with a folded coffee filter dipped in at least 90% isopropyl alcohol. (Rubbing alcohol.) Do NOT use acetone. (Nail polish remover.) Hit up again with a dry filter, and wait at least five minutes before reinstalling the RAM. If the contacts are dirty, it might be causing an issue.

Also, manually go into the BIOS and set the RAM to DDR-333 with 2-3-2-5 as per your reported system rather than leaving them at auto. Then try putting all four DIMMs in. If still no dice, I would look into getting that motherboard replaced.


----------



## egerds

13 hours ago when i finally got a post, i tested all modules in each slot and then several combo's of the 4 in the dual chan away from cpu, I manually set ddr to 400 2-3-2-5 works as long is i use the ocz that is rated for that. bout 7~9 of those 13 hrs where figuring out that it was the 1st ram slot and only 1gb module. @ work but when i get home I will try the isopropol can paper coffee filter trick. What i though was interesting that when i just had a 256 or 512 that slot ubu memtest x64 ran just fine w/o any exceptions. this is by a long shot no where near my 1st build, i would put that round '96 w/ other ppls garbage and it was a socket 5/7 and i think my 1st clock was 133 @ 148 w/ edo the fp i had didn't cut it. I guess i've been extremely lucky w/ my purchase except my ddr2 ram last feb for my q6600 but i know when i open box they looked fonny and was hestant to even put in board b/c both of modules had visible damage to both side of the heat sinks. so i thats when i broke my 12 lucky hardware streak. i would place the difficulty i've had w/ this up there back when google or online search would not result in quick answers like today. but back then i couldn't figure why the newer hd 3227 mb replacing a 4xx mb hd would not recognize, duh 16 bit fat shrug palm face


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *egerds* 
hrm will not boot if i have a 1gb ocz 2-3-2-5 in the slot closest to processor, but will with 256 or 512, i have 4 sticks for 1gb why would i not be able to boot w/ in the slot closest to processor but when i have 512 or 256 that slot passes ubuntu 9.04 memtest x64 just fine

What bios version are you running?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
...Before this particular issue did you ever have this board successfully working?

Good luck

Yeah his posts are sketchy on this, First one seems not but subsequent ones seem so.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mattliston* 
you cant really compare those temps unless teh ambient stayed the exact same, ...

sure you can when the range is so huge. My guess is a foobarred initial mounting and after lap he got a good mount.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
...try cleaning out the slots with a folded coffee filter dipped in at least 90% isopropyl alcohol. (Rubbing alcohol.) Do NOT use acetone. (Nail polish remover.) Hit up again with a dry filter, and wait at least five minutes before reinstalling the RAM. If the contacts are dirty, it might be causing an issue.

Also, manually go into the BIOS and set the RAM to DDR-333 with 2-3-2-5 as per your reported system rather than leaving them at auto. Then try putting all four DIMMs in. If still no dice, I would look into getting that motherboard replaced.

I recommend using a toothbrush to clean mem slots and blow them out with compressed air. And change the auto to something like 266 3-3-3-8 while trouble shooting. I don't run 1 gig sticks in mine but I did have a 1 gig valueram in there (slot one-closest to cpu) for awhile and it worked fine so it's not a board specific issue.

Make sure you have the latest bios.


----------



## egerds

was running 1.20, after getting windows running updated to 1.30 its been so long since i've used a 3 1/2 i'm not sure if all 7 of my cables or 5 drives (didn't even attempt to put in the 5 1/4 as i have no ibm disk's commadore yes) are bad but couldn't get floppy to work either

wasn't able to get any post boot 13 hrs ago when found the nanya mem that finally gave pc speaker beeps, except w/ this 1gb in that slot.


----------



## Hueristic

2.3010/2/2006 939Dual-SATA2


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *egerds*


was running 1.20, after getting windows running updated to 1.30 its been so long since i've used a 3 1/2 i'm not sure if all 7 of my cables or 5 drives (didn't even attempt to put in the 5 1/4 as i have no ibm disk's commadore yes) are bad but couldn't get floppy to work either

wasn't able to get any post boot 13 hrs ago when found the nanya mem that finally gave pc speaker beeps, except w/ this 1gb in that slot.


I'm so cornfused by your post.

You did or did not update your bios to the latest version?

You did or did not try to adjust your ram timmings and voltages that support your ram sticks?

You are trying to run 4x1GB of identical ram or you are trying to run 4x1GB of mixed density ram sticks?

I second the toothbrush method. I think coffee filters have a good purpose like on cpu IHS and HSF but in slots where there are sharp edges that can cut and catch fliter material then it just may be possible to create more problems if fibers get caught in the slots.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Yeah his posts are sketchy on this, First one seems not but subsequent ones seem so.

Make sure you have the latest bios.


 ^ this


----------



## Blitz6804

N2Gaming: He has two, 2x1 GB OCZ kits.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


N2Gaming: He has two, 2x1 GB OCZ kits.


Oh ok.

Hey egerds. did you buy your ram brand new in the packaging at a store or did you get it used from different sorces.

The reason I ask is you may have ram that is labled as one type of ram but is actually not what it is labled as.

you can look at the ram part numbers in cpuz. it will tell you the part number of each ram module.

It is very possible you have mixed densities and the sticker on the outside or your ram sticks are labled differnt then what they are reported in cpuz.

I ran into this problem a while back when I purchase a second kit of 2x1GB labled OCZ4002048ELDCPE-K... The only differnce I could notice was the heat spreaders were slightly different and cpuz reported the ram part numbers different then what the lable on the sticks claimed them to be. It turned out the second pair of sticks were binned to run at 2.5/3/2/5 1T and not what the lable claimed of 2.3.2.5 1T ...

Even though this is not the reason for not being able to post w/one stick in the number one slot, it never hurts to look into it to make sure your ram sticks are all identical.


----------



## egerds

wow i like how fast and active this forum is, 
Hueristic face palm again, my typo 2.30 (on 3 hrs sleep since sat)
this didn't post ever till found that nanya module
before and after bios update have problems when any of the 4 1gb sticks are in slot closest to cpu
yes all modules are identical (same kit ordered later but same kit sku, same s/n in cpu-z, and bios) 
all modules tested individually ok, 
and did several combinations in dual channel, but i did not test all possible combinations of the 4 sticks in the 2 slots furthest away from cpu (all individually tested fine in kubu 9.04 x64) hence why 7~9 of the 13 hours was spent just on mem test
and i manually set 200 2-3-2-5


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chrisme52*


I've just finished lapping my athlon 64x2 4200.
My cpus used to run at around 35-41 and now its only 26 at idle!
thats with a budget cooler and grease.

I highly recommend this small mod to everyone.

Just wondering, what are the lowest cpu temps out there? and what setups?


Chrisme52, isn't it amazing? It's the cheapest mod for extra cooling. If only we could get a another member here to lap his 940BE then MAYBE just maybe he might see some cooling differences and hopefully start overclocking his processor more *cough Blitz*









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


I recommend using a toothbrush to clean mem slots and blow them out with compressed air.


Hueristic, great suggestion. A tooth brush coupled with some isopropyl alcohol is a good combo. The brush is perfect for getting in those DIMM slots.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *egerds*


and did several combinations in dual channel, but i did not test all possible combinations of the 4 sticks in the 2 slots furthest away from cpu (all individually tested fine in kubu 9.04 x64) hence why 7~9 of the 13 hours was spent just on mem test
and i manually set 200 2-3-2-5


Egerds, are you testing with several different brands of memory ? I thought you originally just a had a OCZ kit? Sorry we're just having troubles understanding your situation. 2-3-2-5 seems pretty tight for memory. What is the model number of this kit? It should be located on the sticker or better yet read off the timings if you can. I believe this was suggested previously by N2Gaming.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Thlnk3r: He said he has two kits of OCZ4002048ELDCPE-K.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Thlnk3r: He said he has two kits of OCZ4002048ELDCPE-K.


^this


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Thlnk3r: He said he has two kits of OCZ4002048ELDCPE-K.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


^this 


Thanks guys! I must of missed it









Do you guys think it would be advisable for *egerds* to try and relax his timings within the bios first? Perhaps 3-3-3-8? Maybe booting up with the working sticks of memory and making the changes with that and then swapping over. Just a thought...


----------



## N2Gaming

My past experience w/this same ram is this. The timings were very picky in my NF4 SLI DR, needed to be set manually for timmings and voltage. I don't recall if they were able to run at 3.3.3.8 at stock spd's. I could give it a shot real quck to see if mine can do it just for the sake of knowing if they are capable of posting w/looser timings.


----------



## N2Gaming

i was able to post and boot into windows once at 3.3.3.8 1T w/fsb x 220 and ht x5 then I tried to up the stakes a little by dropping my HT multi to 4x and upping fsb to 235 and increasing my cpu core volts to 1.4v but my system hung trying to load NTLOADER claiming NTLOADER missing. So I just turned my overclock back down to stock. This is using my naked 3500+. I just booted it up stock so I'm gonna give it another try here to see if I can get any decent overclocks out of those ram sticks using loose ram timmings of 3.3.3.8.1T


----------



## Tator Tot

Apparently AsRock won't let Socket 939 Motherboards dies

http://www.overclock.net/hardware-ne...939-alive.html


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Apparently AsRock won't let Socket 939 Motherboards dies

http://www.overclock.net/hardware-ne...939-alive.html


wow... I don't know, it's pretty cool that they were able to link the 785G with the 939 architecture. Looking on info of memory type (ddr/ddr2). This would have been nice during AM2, but with AM3 being a good bit better than previous platforms I don't see a point.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


If only we could get a another member here to lap his 940BE then MAYBE just maybe he might see some cooling differences and hopefully start overclocking his processor more *cough Blitz*






























































Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Apparently AsRock won't let Socket 939 Motherboards dies

http://www.overclock.net/hardware-ne...939-alive.html


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*

































 LOL your only saying this because your a loyal ASRock fan.









I do find it pretty cool though that there is a choice for a new mobo if say you have an older OEM socket 939 system like a dell or compac that has a dead mobo but the ram and cpu are still good. It does make sense for a HTPC being as how it comes w/built in HD video and option for hybrid crossfire. Down fall is limited expansion ports.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Apparently AsRock won't let Socket 939 Motherboards dies

http://www.overclock.net/hardware-ne...939-alive.html


Tator, wow....SB710 and S939


----------



## egerds

slot closest to cpu defective, will not accept any double sided, if i can't get rma guess the other kit is going to back to the cel-d 335 @ 2.9 once i get enough mobo mount screws, and cheap innotec 8600 going in 939, and the good 1950 pro w/ the cel-d


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *egerds* 
slot closest to cpu defective, will not accept any double sided, if i can't get rma guess the other kit is going to back to the cel-d 335 @ 2.9 once i get enough mobo mount screws, and cheap innotec 8600 going in 939, and the good 1950 pro w/ the cel-d

http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/news/...g-motherboard/


----------



## egerds

i purched ASROCK 939Dual-Sata2 b/c i wanted ddr1 4gb and to use my his x1950 pro, that was in my cel-d 335 @ 2.9 except only 2 ddr slots <edit> i guess using the 8600gt won't be that bad w/ this mobo cpu combo.


----------



## Hueristic

/Totally off topic:

You guys gotta watch House M.D. S06e03 - Epic Fail, It has a few wild CGI scenes. I want that game!


----------



## TestECull

INCOMING!

Asrock just came out with a BRAND NEW S939 board featuring AMD 785G/SB710!

who wants to grab one and see how they run?

Edit: Blarg, ninja'd.


----------



## mattliston

they must be cheap vboards made of recycled or overstocked 939 parts. asrock actually has a mobo out for 40-60 bucks AM2, etc....

definitely gonna pick this board up if it goes under 50 bucks and overclocks nice


----------



## TestECull

I doubt it. 785G/SB710/PCI-e 2.0/etc etc didn't exsist back then.


----------



## mattliston

but asrock's cheapest AM2 board has those features and then some, plus DDR2 support

Im putting money on teh table, its a guarenteed sub 100 dollar board, Im hoping its a stable one that will go under 50 bucks. it has to be cheap if they are going to even sell


----------



## N2Gaming

I would think the board would come in under $100.00 being as it has only 3 or 4 slots. one PCIe x16 2.0, 2x PCI and I can't remember if it has any other slots. No sli on this board as it is AMD Hybrid Crossfire so it's chipset wont make it cost a whole lot. I'm wondering if amd has a secret stash of 939 cpu's LOL


----------



## mattliston

secret super overclocking stash


----------



## Tator Tot

Wow...that pisses me off.

Either my post got deleted or OCN just hates me...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Wow...that pisses me off.

Either my post got deleted or OCN just hates me...

Tator, which post are you referring to? Sometimes I'll reply and click "Submit" and then boom my browser times out which kind of stinks because my long post is no in limbo haha. I started copying and pasting everything now









Egerds, shame to hear that the closest DIMM slot is bad. I received your validation via PM so I'll go ahead and add you to the roster. Will you be looking for a S939 replacement motherboard or is it time for you to upgrade?

Good luck


----------



## egerds

Tator Tot same that thlnk3r, i lost 4 wordy posts to browser prob, meh better i guess to keep this forumn kinda on topic bout the 939 appreciation, now i c & p before i submit

thlnk3r i purched mobo / cpu from seperate vendors b4 i found this nice community of ocn to get prolly lot cheaper, b/c i wanted to upgrade to use 4gb dd1 @ 400 2-3-2-5 and utilize my x1950 pro b/c its severly cpu bottle necked w/ the cel-d 335 @ 2.9

may main rig q6600, 8gb ddr2 5-4-4-15, kfa2 8800gt in sli, and recent purchase of 7 hd's (5 for use in this rig) raid0 boot





















really happy with peformance and 750 green's for storage, but any hd would have been better then my 80gb sea bara w/ extreme amout of boots and hours on it and the 320 that @ 200 sec errors after reading smart, and 500 gb puched last year was my ony sata2 drive, kinda p's me off I purched 2 320 gb hd's b/c they said sata 2 300. The 1st wd greens peform great in the green pc (939 x2 3800+), way better in perfirmance even then the < 1 yr old 500 gb


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator, which post are you referring to? Sometimes I'll reply and click "Submit" and then boom my browser times out which kind of stinks because my long post is no in limbo haha. I started copying and pasting everything now










Oh no, I know it went through, I put up a note regarding the news about that 785G Socket 939 board from AsRock, and low and behold, it was up for a bit, then it just went poof.

TestEcull even noted that I got my reply in first with his edit.

I had like 13 posts in that time frame that just up and vanished.

EDIT: I'm going with #2 OCN Hates me.


----------



## Blitz6804

Is it this one?

Not to seem ungrateful egerds, but when someone says "+REP," they usually hit the "REP+" button under someone's name. If it is something cool, but not completely reputation worthy, you would go with "IMGREP."


----------



## thlnk3r

Egerds, I'm glad your experience with Western Digital is good so far. I purchased a couple 750AAKS drives a while back and they so far have been great. Let us know if you need help finding a new S939 board.

Good luck


----------



## egerds

thlnk3r, i had a problem with trying win 7 7100 x64 and not finding proper drivers for the x1950, have you tried rc1 w/ the x1950, i notice your sig says xp pro but doesn't specify x86 x64, google and foung a few other w/ the same prob, and the manually find file after extracting from exe worked for old drivers but not the current vista x64 drivers for the x1950


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Wow...that pisses me off.

Either my post got deleted or OCN just hates me...

You mean you post on the new Asrock board? I saw it yesterday. It was pretty good timeing considering Egerds dead board!

Speaking of which Egerd in my experience if a ram slot is bad it is bad, not only able to function with different size memories. If I were you I would get a magnifying glass and make sure none of the contacts are even slightly bent in dimm1. You can use a jewlers screwdriver to bend it back if indeed that is the case. I've had to repair CPU Slots like that also in the past.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Egerds, I'm glad your experience with Western Digital is good so far. I purchased a couple 750AAKS drives a while back and they so far have been great. Let us know if you need help finding a new S939 board.

Good luck

WD is by far the most reliable and rma friendly HD manufacturer ever. Over the decades I can attest to this.


----------



## N2Gaming

WD Has been around forever no? Not like Maxtor or Quantum both taken over by Seagate or am I wrong on this?


----------



## Hueristic

Quantum has been around forever too, I remember a 40mb quantum I swapped out of a MacSE. IIRC first maxtor I saw was like 80mb, right about when connors were coming out.


----------



## egerds

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
<snip>

Speaking of which Egerd in my experience if a ram slot is bad it is bad, not only able to function with different size memories. If I were you I would get a magnifying glass and make sure none of the contacts are even slightly bent in dimm1. You can use a jewlers screwdriver to bend it back if indeed that is the case. I've had to repair CPU Slots like that also in the past.

WD is by far the most reliable and rma friendly HD manufacturer ever. Over the decades I can attest to this.

Yes, this build had 7 badly bent pins on the processor even that took me hours to get straight enough to get it in the mobo (wow what a pain that was) now i really appreciate 939 for its time, not like when you could put a 386 processor in the wrong way and watch the fireworks, pretty much my 1st and almost last big mistake back in the 80's

I went over the slot with a fine tooth (cut and sore fingers from case:swearing







w/ a magnafying glass, bright light, tooth brush, ispropl several times b4 i posted it is double sided ddr1 prob, carefully waiting for it all to evaporate.

pretty much all my hd's expired b4 going bad.

i'm suprised how my seagate raid0 performs







http://docs.google.com/Doc?docid=0Ad...dkdHFjcA&hl=en going to make the boot drive tonight and replace the older sata /sata2 drives with 3 750's tonight and perform a long painfully slow format on each then read what smart's got to say, too bad i can't get smart to work on my raid0

has anyone ever used smart on a xfx 680i lt mobo chip based 2 drive raid0?


----------



## Hueristic

I've always disabled smart since the original fiasco.
not to mention is slows the drives down.


----------



## thlnk3r

Egerds, I had a version of Windows 7 x64 temporarily installed for a few days but had a X850XT installed. However I do believe it uses the same drive as the X1950XT per ATI's website. Windows 7 installed it's own driver but I never checked the version. The X850XT did show up properly in the Device Manager. To clarify I have XP Pro 32-bit.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
WD Has been around forever no? Not like Maxtor or Quantum both taken over by Seagate or am I wrong on this?

Yeah, Seagate bought out Quantum & Maxtor, which gave them a good foot in the Enterprise market.


----------



## egerds

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Quantum has been around forever too, I remember a 40mb quantum I swapped out of a MacSE. IIRC first maxtor I saw was like 80mb, right about when connors were coming out.

good ole Quantum my 1st drive that taught me that fat 16 doesn't like drives past a







size, kinda nice we don't have to worry bout that w/ sata2 drives for quite some time

and that using software go access it on a 386 was a very bad idea just for the storage, z0mg forgot what i installed to use 3227 mb on a that 386


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
WD Has been around forever no? Not like Maxtor or Quantum both taken over by Seagate or am I wrong on this?

N2Gaming, WD was founded way before any of the above


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *egerds* 
good ole Quantum my 1st drive that taught me that fat 16 doesn't like drives past a







size, kinda nice we don't have to worry bout that w/ sata2 drives for quite some time

and that using software go access it on a 386 was a very bad idea just for the storage, z0mg forgot what i installed to use 3227 mb on a that 386

Hahaha, yeah I remember when I couldn't get a 40 gig past 32mb! I was ripped when I found out it was a limitation of 3.3! 4.0 look over 1 mb!!!!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, WD was founded way before any of the above









Thanks. I was hoping so. I got called out on a post of mine a little while ago about AMD purchasing ATI. I said they did it to prevent bankrupcy. The offended rebuttle poster was kind of rude but never the less I was wrong so I just appologized for my post and unsub'd from the thread.


----------



## thlnk3r

N2Gaming, hehe no problem buddy.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hey fellas, thanks for holding down the fort. Great job by everyone to keep this ship sailing smoothly.









New members, welcome! I'll have a look at our Club roster (hopefully if/when I have time later today -- work is cramping my style a little bit right now...) and make the appropriate revisions.









Thanks to all who left the messages here for me. They are all most appreciated.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *egerds* 
Yes, this build had 7 badly bent pins on the processor even that took me hours to get straight enough to get it in the mobo (wow what a pain that was)

THIS is why I do not lap my processor Thlnk3r.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


THIS is why I do not lap my processor Thlnk3r.


It's not that much of a problem, if you just leave that little foam piece on the CPU lapping is a breeze.

The problem most people have is you are not supposed to put pressure on the CPU. You are using a fine grit after the initial sanding, so most of the time you are gliding it across the sand paper mostly.

I wish we could figure out a way to eliminate pins all together and just rely on contacts.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


I wish we could figure out a way to eliminate pins all together and just rely on contacts.


at leaste cough * intel * cough put the pins in the socket so you don't bend pins on the cpu's... I like this idea much better. I find it much harder to drop the mobo and bend pins in the socket then I do dropping cpu's and bending pins on the cpu's.

I droppd my last two best cpu's opty 180 and my x4 940. The opty was a pita to fix but the Ph II was a walk in the park.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


THIS is why I do not lap my processor Thlnk3r.


Blitz, I don't think egerds was referring to a "lapping" accident. Besides as Tator mentioned you shouldn't be putting pressure on the processor. Try holding it by the wafer...that is what I typically do.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

It is the fear of breaking it that prohibits me from lapping it. Especially after the decapitation mishap... Lapping the CPU cooler again I might get around to eventually.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


at leaste cough * intel * cough put the pins in the socket so you don't bend pins on the cpu's... I like this idea much better. I find it much harder to drop the mobo and bend pins in the socket then I do dropping cpu's and bending pins on the cpu's.

I droppd my last two best cpu's opty 180 and my x4 940. The opty was a pita to fix but the Ph II was a walk in the park.


Haven't dropped a CPU, I did recover an x2 6400+ Windsor from when my friend dropped it moving boards. Wasn't so bad, a flat edge razer works wonders.

But as for the Pin-in-socket...well that's got a pro and con to it.

Pro: Harder to Damage
Con: Harder to RMA if you get a DOA board thanks to socket damage. EVGA specifically is notorious for denying RMA saying you damaged the socket.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, I don't think egerds was referring to a "lapping" accident. Besides as Tator mentioned you shouldn't be putting pressure on the processor. Try holding it by the wafer...that is what I typically do.

Good luck


I tape the foam piece that comes in the CPU bubble to the waver and make sure only the IHS is exposed.

And then hold by the wafer. It's the best way to do it IMO.


----------



## DesertRat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


It's not that much of a problem, if you just leave that little foam piece on the CPU lapping is a breeze.

The problem most people have is you are not supposed to put pressure on the CPU. You are using a fine grit after the initial sanding, so most of the time you are gliding it across the sand paper mostly.

I wish we could figure out a way to eliminate pins all together and just rely on contacts.


Yup. I lapped my manny and didn't bend any pins in the process because I pushed that foam thingy into the pins. I can't hold the chip by the PCB tho, because I'd sand off my fingers; which I actually did when I lapped my e4500









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


It is the fear of breaking it that prohibits me from lapping it. Especially after the decapitation mishap... Lapping the CPU cooler again I might get around to eventually.


Aye, I remember you telling me about that. TBH, unless your cooler's base is really rough and uneven, you'll get he most boost in cooling from lapping the IHS flat and getting down to the copper. Lapping is a less dangerous process than de-lidding AFAIK too. You could always lap through the IHS completely like a few have done w/ solder-on IHS









So far I've lapped 2 chips w/o issue, One s939 and one lga775.


----------



## Olly_p

i thought i post my 6000+ OC results
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=742186


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


It is the fear of breaking it that prohibits me from lapping it.


Blitz, you'll never know until you try buddy. You were needing assistance on cooling and this is one of the things we recommend you try. Lapping *both* surfaces will give you the best results.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Olly_p*


i thought i post my 6000+ OC results
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=742186


Olly_p, that is a nice overclock for a 6000+. Unfortunately this club is for socket 939 processors only. However that doesn't mean you can't post in here. If you need assistance or have questions just let us know









Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Most of you might be horrified if you knew about how I lapped a couple of my CPUs, before I discovered the joys of decapitation.

Particularly, wet-lapping the CPU under running water.









And yes, those chips still work sans problems.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Olly_p*


i thought i post my 6000+ OC results
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=742186



Welcome to OCN, 200 mhz overclock







we don't do to much socket 940/am2 in this thread tho.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Most of you might be horrified if you knew about how I lapped a couple of my CPUs, before I discovered the joys of decapitation.

Particularly, wet-lapping the CPU under running water.









And yes, those chips still work sans problems.










kind of reminds me of Hueristics suggestion of putting my Venus mobo in the dishwasher
















edit: I finally got my Linksys WRT54GS running w/my new AT&T Westel 6100 DSL modem. What a pain that was. AT&T wanted to charge me by the minute to help me set it up and Linksys wanted to charge me a flat $29.00 to help me set it up. I found several internet links that helped me figure it out.

I had to change my modem to work as a bridge to my router as PPPoE and then set up the router to use PPPoE w/user name and password.

The main problem I was having was I was not bypassing the modem or bridging it to the router so the router was not able to retrieve a ip add from my isp. Well now that I got that figured out I can now go to Radio Shack to purchase a majic jack so that I can have home phone again for $20.00 a year. Ya.


----------



## Blitz6804

I used Skype for some time N2Gaming; that is $90 a year and does everything but 9-1-1. Magic Jack I have seen commercials for, but I always questioned their legitimacy. When you get it working, let me know how it goes.


----------



## N2Gaming

You got it blitz. I have a thread about it here. I'm gonna try to set up a stand alone system so that I don't get spyware on my everyday pc's.


----------



## Olly_p

my bad newbie


----------



## Hueristic

N2, I have run many circuit boards through the dishwasher. As long as you dry them out before powering up it is the fastest easiest way to clean them in a home setting. I did 6 PS's a few months back and 2 of them are powering my HTPC since then. One of these days I may upload the pics I took for you guys.

AFA Socket V/S LGA I'm 100% socket. I don't mind bending pins back, All it takes is patience and a steady hand. But LGA's are near impossible to fix. If they get twisted there is a good chance they will just break when bending them back.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I'm of the opinion that Intel specified its LGA design purely to avoid damage to their own products, and shift responsibility to either/both the motherboard manufacturers and the end users in case there is damage to the pins. Intel incurs no losses attributable to physical damage to the processor as far as connection points to the motherboard socket are concerned.


----------



## OSDCrusher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Welcome to OCN, 200 mhz overclock


The 6000+s are known to be bad overclockers. He actually did pretty good. The highest they can get to is around 3400 MHz.


----------



## N2Gaming

yeah that's why I gave him a







that you seem to have edited out OSDcrusher. 125w cpu that is already running hot is hard to overclock any more. H2O and a lot of Core volts is the ticket w/those. I have seen 3.5 or 3.6 before but don't ask me for proof.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OSDCrusher*


The 6000+s are known to be bad overclockers. He actually did pretty good. The highest they can get to is around 3400 MHz.


3.4ghz was the upper limit of a K8 no matter what series (IE x2 3000, x2 4000, x2 5000, x2 6000)


----------



## BlackOmega

Well gentlemen I ordered my AM3 rig. 720BE, MSI GD70, 2GB Patriot PC3-15000 (DDR3-1866).

Sad part is, this whole getup cost me just as much as my opty 165 new.


----------



## Blitz6804

Sounds about right. A Brisbane, AM2+ motherboard, and DDR2 RAM cost me only $50 more than JUST my San Diego. Tech gets cheaper regularly, for good or for bad.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Sounds about right. A Brisbane, AM2+ motherboard, and DDR2 RAM cost me only $50 more than JUST my San Diego. Tech gets cheaper regularly, for good or for bad.

I was going to go with the 945 but decided against it. It saved me $50, but I thought to myself that I'll just get a 965 later when they get cheaper. And who knows they might even have something better out by then.

I ordered it through ZZF mostly due to the price difference, saved $35 over newegg for almost the exact same set up,with the exception of the RAM. The Patriot RAM is a lot faster than what the egg offered for more. I figure I'll be able to run at a slower speed but with considerably tighter timings. I read a review about it and a guy was able to run it @ 5-5-5-15 @ DDR3 1600 @ stock voltage. And since I'm going to run XP (unless I can get win7 for supercheap) I didn't need any more than 2GB anyway.

And man ZZF has a MUCH larger selection for AM3 mobo's than the egg. Sure they don't have the crossfire formula, but I don't care about that board anyway.

I'll keep you guys posted as to my results with it when it shows up.









PS: Would anyone here be interested in my CFX board? I know she's kind of finicky but she still OC's great and for the most part works great.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I was going to go with the 945 but decided against it. It saved me $50, but I thought to myself that I'll just get a 965 later when they get cheaper. And who knows they might even have something better out by then.


BlackOmega, woohoo very exciting man. I hope you get results from your new build. If I'm not mistaken I think the 720BE has the possibility to unlock. I definitely know the 550BE does









In regards to the CFX board, all I can really suggest is to try the For Sale section. You may get some bites in there.

Good luck buddy

EDIT: Forgot to include this unlocking guide: http://www.overclock.net/amd-cpus/53...ing-guide.html


----------



## N2Gaming

Looks like you could not hold out for black friday " Omega Supreme ". I'm sure you got a good deal. Especially if you say you paid as much as you did for a Single x2 cpu some years ago.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, woohoo very exciting man. I hope you get results from your new build. If I'm not mistaken I think the 720BE has the possibility to unlock. I definitely know the 550BE does









In regards to the CFX board, all I can really suggest is to try the For Sale section. You may get some bites in there.

Good luck buddy

EDIT: Forgot to include this unlocking guide: http://www.overclock.net/amd-cpus/53...ing-guide.html


 Ty for the guide sir. Imaginary rep to you.

AFAIK, the 720 has the same unlocking potential as any other PII. I thought about the 550 for a second, but realized that a 720 would be a better choice because if the 550 didn't unlock or wasn't stable, with the 720 I'd still have 3 good cores guaranteed.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Looks like you could not hold out for black friday " Omega Supreme ". I'm sure you got a good deal. Especially if you say you paid as much as you did for a Single x2 cpu some years ago.


 Nope couldn't do it. We had some money come in and seeing how my wife spends it, I had to jump on it or I would've never gotten it. But the way I figure it, when black friday does roll around, I'll be able to get "upgrades"
















I paid $313 shipped for all of it. My 165 was >$300 new







. Hell my Hyperx DDR was ~$100 (IIRC) for 2x512.

Can't wait for it to show up, maybe now I'll be able to stretch my 4870s' legs.


----------



## Blitz6804

You are married... by definition, any money that comes in the door is hers. *Chuckles.*


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
You are married... by definition, any money that comes in the door is hers. *Chuckles.*

Blitz, take note of that because after you get married no more dual 5870 X2's for you. You think it's bad now just wait.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
You are married... by definition, any money that comes in the door is hers. *Chuckles.*

Ain't that the truth. Hell if she had her way, we'd spend all of that $300 on Halloween costumes


----------



## Blitz6804

No more dual 5870x2s for me? I do not have now...

Granted, on HD 5870x2 launch day, I am looking to sell both my HD 4870x2s. A lot of my games play well, but there are a few that refuse to use both cards, Fallout 3 being the most recent example. Since each 5870 is supposed to be as powerful as an HD 4870x2, my theory is that Fallout 3 will play as quadfire intends, while games that already support quadfire (H.A.W.X., Gears of War, et cetera) will continue to perform similarly. The problem is, of course, getting enough money for the HD 4870x2s to afford the 5870x2. (Singular; HD 58xx quadfire is just ridiculous.)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hmm...

Maybe there is a reason I might be the last bachelor amongst my various circles of friends...


----------



## egerds

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz, I don't think egerds was referring to a "lapping" accident. Besides as Tator mentioned you shouldn't be putting pressure on the processor. Try holding it by the wafer...that is what I typically do.

Good luck

nope, i wasn't lapping at all, thats how i got it from the company that my friend purched from fleebay.

it was packed very nice, but still had those bend pins. before final rma, i'm goin to see if any of those priorly bent pins are causing the closest ram slot to not accept any double sided ddr1.

and z0mg takes so long when you do a full format of 3 sata 750 drive @ the same time had to leave it go all night most finished while i was @ work yesterday.

checked smart, all is fine, but i did have a bad cable @ 1st that made it not recognize 1 of the new 5 750gb wd's


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Hmm...

Maybe there is a reason I might be the last bachelor amongst my various circles of friends...































trust me, the wife and I argue about $$$ all the time. Now I wouldn't mind spending $300 on a costume if it looked like the guy in my avatar or yours, but spending ~$150 on a Cpt. Hook outfit is unacceptable.

As for when you do get married, be sure to choose wisely. My best advice to you ----> live with them first. Sure you 2 might like each other, but the question is can you stand each other.









And BTW, kids will change a lot in your relationship







(forgot to tell you about that one thlnk3r







)


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Nope couldn't do it. We had some money come in and seeing how my wife spends it, I had to jump on it or I would've never gotten it. But the way I figure it, when black friday does roll around, I'll be able to get "upgrades"
















I paid $313 shipped for all of it. My 165 was >$300 new







. Hell my Hyperx DDR was ~$100 (IIRC) for 2x512.

Can't wait for it to show up, maybe now I'll be able to stretch my 4870s' legs.









I just found a couple of receipts for my original 939 build yesterday.

$139.99 Win XP Pro X64 OEM w/free copy Far Cry OEM ( @ ZZF )
$223.80 AMD A64 3500+ w/free copy Far Cry OEM ( @ ZZF )
$263.00 OCZ PC3200 OCZ4002048ELDCPE-K ( @ ATACOM )
$197.00 DFI LANPARTY NF4 SLI-DR ( @ ATACOM )
$419.00 VIEWSONIC VX924 19' LCD 4ms ( on sale @ Fry's )
$89.99 Leadtek Winfast PX6600TD ( Fry's )
$69.99 Microsoft Wireless Desktop Elite keyboard & Intellimous Explore 2.0 combo ( on sale @ Fry's w/additional $20 MIR )
$89.99 WD OEM 36GB Raptor Sata ( on sale @ fry's )
$39.99 Emprex IDE DVD RW burner ( @ Fry's )
$14.99 Sony Floppy Drive ( @ Fry's )
Total cost just to play a game that I bought at fry's that would not play well on my Duron 800 Socket A machine. $1675.43 after tax







and to think the game was not all that good any way. Delta Force Black Hawk down. pft. I had to get BF2 on sale at fry's a month or so later for $20.00 to really appriciate my new rig.

The moral of this story you got off easy w/that build.

Edit: I totally forgot about the power supply. Enermax 600W SLI certified 80 what ever it's called for $149.99 so it was actually more like a little over $1800.00 Do I have rocks in my head or what. So now when any one askes me if I so dearly love my 939 you all know why my answer is but of course I do.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *egerds* 
and z0mg takes so long when you do a full format of 3 sata 750 drive @ the same time had to leave it go all night most finished while i was @ work yesterday.

Egerds, haha I know what you mean. When I received my two 750AAKS drives I did a sector by sector scan on each and then the full format. It took a while to say the least. Luckily I had a spare machine to do all the testing on so it was nice.

N2Gaming, wow man that was an expensive Socket 939 rig. How long ago was this purchase?


----------



## Tator Tot

You wanna know what's long, do a DBAN tripple pass Zero-ing of a drive...that's atleast a 2day wait.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
You wanna know what's long, do a DBAN tripple pass Zero-ing of a drive...that's atleast a 2day wait.

Tator, are you trying to hide something from the department of defense?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Tator, are you trying to hide something from the department of defense?

















_If_ they could even dream of coming close to taking any information off my array I would gladly surrender to them.









But I usually like to do a Tripple DBAN as to insure the drives are clean when I do OS re-installs.

I've seen some nasty viruses get through low level formats before. So I'm just taking every precaution necessary.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
I've seen some nasty viruses get through low level formats before. So I'm just taking every precaution necessary.

Tator, wow really? I have not experienced that....yet hehe. Are we talking about "root kits" and such? Today I removed, "Total Security" off of someones machine. That piece of malware wasn't all that bad. Just a few registry entries and .dll files had to be removed


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Tator, wow really? I have not experienced that....yet hehe. Are we talking about "root kits" and such? Today I removed, "Total Security" off of someones machine. That piece of malware wasn't all that bad. Just a few registry entries and .dll files had to be removed









We're talking full on hidden partitions being made that are undetectable, and residing in the drive taking control of any windows based actions.

I've seen some nasty things, and coded a few myself, (just for research purposes.)

As a side note: If you were wondering, let's just say they'll have fun cracking 256 bit AES drive encryption that even if they do brute force they better hope to guess a few passwords right if they don't hope for DBAN to launch a couple passes under their noses while my array stays active.

They'd first have to beat the BIOS password, then the password on my PERC6/i.

After all of that, they would finally have to get through windows.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, wow man that was an expensive Socket 939 rig. How long ago was this purchase?

That was back in about the end of summer Aug 2005.

Tator. 







Could I have one of these Secret hidden trojens you speak of. I just bought the majic jack and I'm wondering if they install any software you speak of?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Tator. 







Could I have one of these Secret hidden trojens you speak of. I just bought the majic jack and I'm wondering if they install any software you speak of?

I wouldn't recommend putting them within 20 feet of a windows based machine. They might develop their own wifi connection even while on a USB drive. That's how evil they can be.









Though, I don't think Magic Jack installs any malware or spyware. Atleast I haven't heard so yet, and I've known 2 guys to use it. (Grabbed it to talk to homies in Canadia)

And external scans from linux, other windows machines, and some of the best AV software didn't show anything. So I wouldn't worry about Magic Jack.

We used ClaimWIN, Avast, Nod32, but nothing showed up on any scan.


----------



## Blitz6804

It does. It is in the terms of service that MagicJack will install a spyware/tracking software. The software is not removable. Anything that is on your hard drive belongs to MagicJack. Any personal information they gather about you they can sell to whoever they want.

(All this is being pulled from research in the thread N2Gaming linked us to earlier.)

{See: an exempli gratia}

See also, their terms of service, which read in relevant part:

Quote:



Your registration data and certain other information about you are subject to this Terms of Service. You understand that by using the magicJack device you consent to magicJack's collection and use as set forth in these Terms of Service, including the transfer of this information to and from the United States and/or other countries for storage, processing and use by magicJack, its affiliates and business partners to provide you with information about communications-related service. . . .

You also understand and agree that use of the magicJack device and Software will include advertisements. Advertisements will be served through the magicPage™ Software or the magicJack softphone - the software/softphone attempts to serve local advertisements and classifieds using a completely automated process that enables us to effectively target dynamically changing content. Our computers may analyze the phone numbers you call and your registration information in order to improve the relevance of the ads. We do not provide any personal information to our advertisers or third parties. magicJack has a policy of restricting advertisers that it believes are inappropriate, but it does not guarantee the accuracy or integrity of any advertisers and does not endorse any of the advertisements that may appear in connection with use of the magicJack device. You also understand and agree that use of the magicJack device and Software may include certain communications, such as service announcements, administrative messages and newsletters, and you will not be able to opt out of receiving them. . . .

This Agreement will be governed by and construed in accordance with the laws of the State of Florida, without giving effect to its conflict of laws provisions or your actual state or country of residence. Any claims, legal proceeding or litigation arising in connection with the magicJack device or Software and items and/or services provided by YMAX will be resolved by binding arbitration. The arbitration shall be administered in accordance with the then current Commercial Arbitration Rules of the American Arbitration Association. Any matter to be settled by arbitration shall be submitted to the American Arbitration Association in Palm Beach, Florida, and you consent to binding arbitration in Palm Beach, Florida. . . .


----------



## Tator Tot

Oh wow...something tells me they're going to have a lawsuit about that soon.


----------



## Blitz6804

That is the thing Tator... you cannot sue them. If you sue them, you are in breach of contract. You MUST submit to binding arbitration in Florida. (This is why you read everything thoroughly before signing it.)


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


That is the thing Tator... you cannot sue them. If you sue them, you are in breach of contract. You MUST submit to binding arbitration in Florida. (This is why you read everything thoroughly before signing it.)


I'm not sure, Sony had a similar thing awhile back with them installing spyware without having large print stating it, and thus had legal action taken against them.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


That is the thing Tator... you cannot sue them. If you sue them, you are in breach of contract. You MUST submit to binding arbitration in *Florida*. (This is why you read everything thoroughly before signing it.)



But if you don't reside in Florida, is the contract still binding? I would imagine that it's not, specifically if you brought a suit against them in a different state. Lets say one that specifically forbids this type of personal infringement. 
I would imagine that that particular law is only binding in the state of FL.

It's similar to the reason why a lot of credit card companies and health insurance have their headquarters in Delaware because they have the laxest laws pertaining to them.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes, it is. The Supreme Court has upheld "Clickwrap" agreements before. As you said, Delaware has the most corporation-friendly corporate law. No matter what law school you go to in the country, in Corporate Law, you will learn the model code and the Delaware code. You usually would have an argument for conflict of law (the law of the licensor versus the law of the licensee) but for the fact that when you agree to the Terms of Service, you agree to be bound by the State of Florida.


----------



## egerds

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
That was back in about the end of summer Aug 2005.

Tator. 







Could I have one of these Secret hidden trojens you speak of. I just bought the majic jack and I'm wondering if they install any software you speak of?

heh i spent $93.xx on my 939 mobo/cpu, forgot how much on the 1950 / and 4gb ddr1, think 1950 was 150 back in 07 and ram was 120 ea kit back then.

psu was 10 bucks from a friend, and the 8600 was free to me after a 2 day low level data recovery of a friends 160gb hd, that consisted of win x86 and linux x86 partitions on a am2 x2 5600+, think the vid cost him like 110 and psu was 50 before 40 rebate from other friend, so all in all in 2007~2009 spent $546, but $93.xx was just my upgrade of a computer that has been off for 14~16 months anyways, i'm no thinking that 2gb in dual chan should be enough for the 939 instead of going 4gb, cause x2 3800 @ 2.0 is alot better then cel-d 335 @ 2.9


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz, man you definitely know your stuff when it comes to the above subject!


----------



## BlackOmega

Wow that Magic Jack is one prying. I'd never agree to that.

However, I never got the notion saying that everything on your HDD belongs to them. I did gather that they use information about you and can do with it as they please. Hell they could even spam you with porn and not be held liable.

As for the laws of this land, corporate or not, the laws should be the same everywhere. It really bothers me that certain states can allow corporate malice (Delaware) and can't legally be held liable for it. That's one of the big problems with this country. It just proves, to me, beyond a reasonable doubt that not all men (states) are equal.

If I knew more about it, I would say that this would be grounds to bring a law suit against the government for preferential treatment.


----------



## Blitz6804

If I remember right, such a claim was found not to be protected by the 14th Amendment, neither the Equal Protection clause nor the Due Process clause, because of the 10th Amendment. That is, any powers not delegated to the Federal Government by the Constitution, remain with the States. The Constitution is silent on Corporations, and because of that, the States have the exclusive domain of the regulation thereof.


----------



## N2Gaming

Now after all that you know about this MJ after reading the binding agreement, would you say that my other pc's are safe from this if they are networked to the mj pc or do I have to make sure those pc's are off when I use the mj so that I don't get any snooping of say my online banking info?


----------



## Blitz6804

That is a good question. I guess it depends on your interpretation of "Your registration data and _certain other information about you_ are subject to this Terms of Service. You understand that by using the magicJack device you consent to magicJack's collection and use . . ." (Emphasis added.)


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
If I remember right, such a claim was found not to be protected by the 14th Amendment, neither the Equal Protection clause nor the Due Process clause, because of the 10th Amendment. *That is, any powers not delegated to the Federal Government by the Constitution, remain with the States.* The Constitution is silent on Corporations, and because of that, the States have the exclusive domain of the regulation thereof.

Well it looks like a new amendment needs to be added then.


----------



## OSDCrusher

Update on the voltage:
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=746490


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OSDCrusher*


Update on the voltage:
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=746490


I think you can do much better then that...


----------



## OSDCrusher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I think you can do much better then that...










Really? What should I go for?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OSDCrusher*


Update on the voltage:
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=746490


OSDCrusher, great looking overclock on 1.392 volts









I'm assuming you're still playing with the overclock judging by your low memory frequency?

I added your Opteron 170 validation next to your 185 on the roster.

Good luck


----------



## OSDCrusher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


OSDCrusher, great looking overclock on 1.392 volts









I'm assuming you're still playing with the overclock judging by your low memory frequency?

I added your Opteron 170 validation next to your 185 on the roster.

Good luck


Yea, I'm still messing around. Thanks for fixing the roster.


----------



## OSDCrusher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


OSDCrusher, great looking overclock on 1.392 volts









I'm assuming you're still playing with the overclock judging by your low memory frequency?

I added your Opteron 170 validation next to your 185 on the roster.

Good luck


Can you fix this: this too?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OSDCrusher*


Can you fix this: this too?


I believe only Blitz can change that one.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OSDCrusher*


Can you fix this: this too?


OSDCrusher, that is actually the offsite roster that Blitz's manages. I currently do not have the ability to change anything on that site. Blitz himself will have to make the appropriate changes for you.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *OSDCrusher* 
Really? What should I go for?

2.7 - 2.8GHz range. I was thinking the opty 170 was 2.2 but after looking it up it turns out to only be 2.0GHz cpu so 650MHz is a lot better then I thought. Your cpu spd is good, now adjust your ram spd for better bandwidth and you should be good.

Hey Pio long time no see. How is every thing going in your neck of the woods?


----------



## nategr8ns

Guys, I'm getting an upgrade bug again... Do you guys think it makes sense to buy another 8800GT for ~$50 and SLI or to just buy a new card for ~$100? If I couldn't get a successful SLI mod I would let my bro have the other 8800GT (his 7900GS is struggling with GTA4).

The other route is to replace my core components and give my opty rig to my dad... I have no idea what to do if I went this route, I haven't been keeping up with hardware at all except for the recent 5870 vs. G300 series arguing (no idea how that's going to turn out, I hope they're equal which will lead to a price war







).


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Guys, I'm getting an upgrade bug again... Do you guys think it makes sense to buy another 8800GT for ~$50 and SLI or to just buy a new card for ~$100? If I couldn't get a successful SLI mod I would let my bro have the other 8800GT (his 7900GS is struggling with GTA4).

The other route is to replace my core components and give my opty rig to my dad... I have no idea what to do if I went this route, I haven't been keeping up with hardware at all except for the recent 5870 vs. G300 series


 Adding another 8800GT would be the best upgrade to your existing rig. 8800GT's in SLI will outperform most any $100 card, unless you can luck out and get a 4870 for that price point. 
However, as good as our 939 rigs are, it will bottleneck those cards. I know mine bottlenecks my GSO's.

However if you were to upgrade your core components and give your opty rig to your dad, I think you'll quickly realize that the new hardware is actually pretty cheap. 
I'd be willing to bet that you could put together an AM3 rig for less than $300. I just ordered mine, 720BE, MSI 790FX-GD70, and 2 GB of DDR3 15000 for $313 shipped from zip zoom fly.

Now I'm sure you could put together a nice system there for under $300 pretty easily. Not to mention ZZF has a much better AM3 motherboard selection than newegg. And ZZF gives combo deals, so if you buy a board, a cpu and RAM you'll save big.
And yes they actually have SLI boards available for AM3 now too, if you wanted to stay with your nvidia GPU's.


----------



## nategr8ns

I don't care what GPU company I go with, no loyalties whatsoever







.
Are there any AM3 motherboards out that will do SLI _and_ Crossfire? I don't mean together, but if I were to upgrade core components now, then get another 88GT, and then replace them with, say CF 4890s in the future, that would be nice. I don't want to be stuck with one GPU manufacturer.

Does anybody have an extra 939 CPU I can buy? All I want is stability, and faster than a P4 3.4GHZ with HT. Dual core would be nice but I don't think it will fit the budget. I guess I should test my old board with my opty first...


----------



## Blitz6804

If you want SLI or Crossfire capabilities, you need the Intel x58 chipset. Maybe also some lower-featured derivatives of the same.


----------



## N2Gaming

Blitz I think you were trying to say if nate wants both sli & Crossfire capabilities built into one mobo solution then he should look into the Intel X58 chipset.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


If you want SLI or Crossfire capabilities, you need the Intel x58 chipset. Maybe also some lower-featured derivatives of the same.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Blitz I think you were trying to say if nate wants both sli & Crossfire capabilities built into one mobo solution then he should look into the Intel X58 chipset.










No quiet, you can activate SLi on almost any motherboard now. 







Drum roll for my red brothers.









But if you go AM3 upgrade, look at the Gigabyte boards, as they seem to work with this SLi activator.


----------



## Blitz6804

That is what I said N2Gaming...

Good find Tator Tot... maybe I should look into 3x GTX 285? JUST KIDDING!

The off-site roster is once again up to date.


----------



## N2Gaming

Not yet tested on XP Pro X64 :swearing:

Sorry blitz I was confused as to what solution you refered " sli or crossfire ".


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


No quiet, you can activate SLi on almost any motherboard now. 







Drum roll for my red brothers.









But if you go AM3 upgrade, look at the Gigabyte boards, as they seem to work with this SLi activator.


Tator, good info there









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


The off-site roster is once again up to date.


Blitz, would you mind updating my processors in your list? At the moment I just have my Opty 146. Thanks


----------



## Blitz6804

So edited thlnk3r. I add processors whenever I see them posted here; but I do not delete unless instructed to.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
No quiet, you can activate SLi on almost any motherboard now.







Drum roll for my red brothers.









Thanks Tator, I saw a thread here at OCN that was talking about something like this. Is this the same SLI hack that the Russians did?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Thanks Tator, I saw a thread here at OCN that was talking about something like this. Is this the same SLI hack that the Russians did?

Yep, works on my board with 2 x 7900GTX's.


----------



## OSDCrusher

Blitz, can you add my Opteron 185 to the other roster please?


----------



## nategr8ns

cool, thanks for the link. I'll start comparing Intel vs. AMD in different price ranges and see what makes the most sense. Are the ZZF deals just online? Because there's no B&M store near me.


----------



## Blitz6804

So added OSDCrusher.

Everyone look over their entries quick and make sure I am not missing a validation.

Again, I reiterate I could use a little help finishing the roster yet if someone has some spare time. All prior calls have gone ignored. (;_


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


cool, thanks for the link. I'll start comparing Intel vs. AMD in different price ranges and see what makes the most sense. Are the ZZF deals just online? Because there's no B&M store near me.


ZIPZOOMFLY is on line only. I use to live one city over from them and they would not will call my order I had to pay shipping and wait the extra 5 days to get it even though it was just one city over from me. Actually just accross the freeway a couple of miles down the road.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


So added OSDCrusher.

Everyone look over their entries quick and make sure I am not missing a validation.

Again, I reiterate I could use a little help finishing the roster yet if someone has some spare time. All prior calls have gone ignored. (;_










I have a couple of threads that I already have under my belt that I have to keep up to date. So as much as I would like to say yes I have to opt out at this time. Sorry buddy.









Edit: sorry for the double post guys.


----------



## Blitz6804

It is actually just a one-time data mine. I am sure you all notice the off-site roster is in a state of semi-completeness. That is, some people have all features, whereas some are missing User IDs, processor coloring, and Motherboards. I just need someone to make a list for me (for all members who presently have gray validations) of User IDs and the motherboard used for each validation shown. Once compiled, I can finish coding. I had started mining while coding, and I got burnt out after a bit, and since then, have not tried going back to it.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Upgrade news for y'alls: Courtesy of my generous brother-in-law, I am now the proud and happy owner of a Gigabyte GA-MA790FXT-UD5P and a Phenom II X4 965 BE.









I was HUGELY surprised by this bounty when I got to my parents' house last night. My sister had flown down from Canada last week and had told me that her husband had "a couple of boxes" for me. He had asked me to build a machine for my nephew for his birthday, and I had done so with my stock of spares and a couple of new parts as well and owed me some money. He asked me if I would take payment in computer parts, and I said sure, if I got my pick.

He asked me for a wish list, and thanks to his sources he was able to get the guts of my AM3 build!









The AM3 build will now be the subject of my long-awaited water-cooled project.









First thing I have to do with the AM3 build: Continue amassing the budget for the RAM. That's the only core component I'm missing.









Next step: I have to request thlnk3r's help in modifying the case I intend to use for this build. Incidentally, the case is actually sitting in his garage right now.








Now that the motherboard has come home, we can plan the mod properly.









So EXCITED about these developments!


----------



## Blitz6804

Congrats Joe. I hope you enjoy your purchase. I do believe you will notice a bit of a difference from your Opty.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


*Does anybody have an extra 939 CPU I can buy?*


 Nate, there's a local computer shop around here that had a 3800x2 (Toledo IIRC) for $50. Do you want me to see if it's still there? It wouldn't be a hassle as it's next door to where I got to get my gyro's (YUM!).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Upgrade news for y'alls: Courtesy of my generous brother-in-law, I am now the proud and happy owner of a Gigabyte GA-MA790FXT-UD5P and a Phenom II X4 965 BE.









I was HUGELY surprised by this bounty when I got to my parents' house last night. My sister had flown down from Canada last week and had told me that her husband had "a couple of boxes" for me. He had asked me to build a machine for my nephew for his birthday, and I had done so with my stock of spares and a couple of new parts as well and owed me some money. He asked me if I would take payment in computer parts, and I said sure, if I got my pick.

He asked me for a wish list, and thanks to his sources he was able to get the guts of my AM3 build!









The AM3 build will now be the subject of my long-awaited water-cooled project.









First thing I have to do with the AM3 build: Continue amassing the budget for the RAM. That's the only core component I'm missing.









Next step: I have to request thlnk3r's help in modifying the case I intend to use for this build. Incidentally, the case is actually sitting in his garage right now.







Now that the motherboard has come home, we can plan the mod properly.









So EXCITED about these developments!


















NICE! Looks like we'll be exchanging notes sooner rather than later.







I know you're going to be running a 64bit OS, but there are some seriously inexpensive sticks out there. Maybe you could pick up a couple and do some "testing"?









But now since you got the 965, the 720 I ordered seems so........inadequate.


----------



## Tator Tot

@Joe

Gratz on the purchase, I have a few tidbits of experience with that board & CPU, so hit me up Via PM or Twitter if you need some assistance overclocking.









But make me proud and make use of that HT Clock man! Your Gigabyte can take it!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Haha, I'll keep everyone posted for sure.









Thanks for the kudos too, guys.


----------



## Blitz6804

It bares asking Txtmstrjoe... with the upgraded backbone, are you going to double down on the HD 4870s? I know you once had an HD 4870x2 and subsequently sold it, but you have a higher rez monitor now than then.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


It bares asking Txtmstrjoe... with the upgraded backbone, are you going to double down on the HD 4870s? I know you once had an HD 4870x2 and subsequently sold it, but you have a higher rez monitor now than then.


No need to.

As set-up, Darth Raivo copes with the super-high resolution with absolutely no problems. No lag, no stutters, no issues whatsoever. I've even gone ahead and applied AA + AF as games allow; still no problems.







(I used to run ATi Tray Tools, but I've eschewed it on this setup. I don't like CCC, either.)

Granted, I don't play Crysis or any other "problematic" games, so this accounts for my lack of perceived performance losses most likely. But even with water-cooling, I don't foresee going with a multi-GPU at all. The HD 4870 is a great-enough card for my present uses.

In my opinion, another GPU will simply increase the heat output and therefore increase cooling demands. I know I'm running H2O cooling on my AM3 build, but I'm going for the simplest water-cooled setup possible. (I likely won't even come close to overwhelming the cooling capacity, but performance needs simply don't require a noisier, more capable cooling solution at the moment.)


----------



## Blitz6804

Gotcha. It all comes down to what games you play I suppose. For example, my Laptop (Mobility Radeon HD 2600) can run L4D maxed out (sans-AA) at 1280x800, Call of Duty 4 maxed out (sans-AA) at 800x600.

If I remember right, Race 07 is not too terrible, and I know Knights of the Old Republic (two of your big games) is relatively old.


----------



## HothBase

Whoa, no way! This thread is turning into The Socket AM3 Appreciation Club and Knowledgebase! 
I wish _I_ had a Phenom II


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


Whoa, no way! This thread is turning into The Socket AM3 Appreciation Club and Knowledgebase! 
I wish _I_ had a Phenom II










 O but you will.









I actually have been planning an AM3 upgrade for quite some time.I was just waiting until more motherboards were available, at time of release the GB UD5P was my favorite board.

I got the GD70 more so due to layout rather looks. With 4 full size PCIe and 2 PCI slots I'm good. And even if I decide to get another board, this one will make for one hell of a folding rig.

The only thing I don't like about it.......the OC dial


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

mmm i need more funds for some sweet sweet AM3 Action.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Upgrade news for y'alls: Courtesy of my generous brother-in-law, I am now the proud and happy owner of a Gigabyte GA-MA790FXT-UD5P and a Phenom II X4 965 BE.

Joe, haha that is too funny. My prediction of the additional box being a proc was right on!

Definitely hit up Tator...he's been helping me lately with my upgrade questions









Good luck bud


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Fear not, S939ers. As long as WE all keep our love for S939 alive, so shall this Club keep on keepin' on.









It'll be a while yet before my AM3 set-up runs, anyway. I've presently got too much money tied up in other uses, so I can't get the RAM. Plus thlnk3r and I have a couple of other collaborations that we need to get up off the ground first.


----------



## Blitz6804

Build log or it did not happen.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Build log or it did not happen.

Yo, you're not the boss of me.









I may post a build log; I probably should, seeing as how I had promised y'alls one for what had erstwhile been my S939 H2O project.

When I have time, I'll start laying the ground work for such a log. It'll be warts and all.

Honestly, though, when you get a system up and running, humming along fast and smooth, you tend to think a lot less of tinkering and building/rebuilding (I ought to be concentrating on redoing Darth Ominous at the moment) and much more about actually using and enjoying your newly-set up machine.

I've been playing rFactor so much the last couple of days, I've been driving far too quickly in the real world as a consequence.


----------



## Blitz6804

Too quickly in the real world? Is there such a thing? Completely unrelated, I found out a few months ago that my car has a speed governor on it...


----------



## mattliston

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Build log or it did not happen.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Too quickly in the real world? Is there such a thing? Completely unrelated, I found out a few months ago that my car has a speed governor on it...


 What kind of car? If it's a Ford, the speed control can usually be disabled by holding the off button the cruise control for 3+ seconds.


----------



## philhalo66

my HTPC desktop http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=750194


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Upgrade news for y'alls: Courtesy of my generous brother-in-law, I am now the proud and happy owner of a Gigabyte GA-MA790FXT-UD5P and a Phenom II X4 965 BE.









I was HUGELY surprised by this bounty when I got to my parents' house last night. My sister had flown down from Canada last week and had told me that her husband had "a couple of boxes" for me. He had asked me to build a machine for my nephew for his birthday, and I had done so with my stock of spares and a couple of new parts as well and owed me some money. He asked me if I would take payment in computer parts, and I said sure, if I got my pick.

He asked me for a wish list, and thanks to his sources he was able to get the guts of my AM3 build!









The AM3 build will now be the subject of my long-awaited water-cooled project.









First thing I have to do with the AM3 build: Continue amassing the budget for the RAM. That's the only core component I'm missing.









Next step: I have to request thlnk3r's help in modifying the case I intend to use for this build. Incidentally, the case is actually sitting in his garage right now.







Now that the motherboard has come home, we can plan the mod properly.









So EXCITED about these developments!










very nice! You could buy a 1gb stick of DDR3 used off of OCN to at least get the system running, could you not?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Nate, there's a local computer shop around here that had a 3800x2 (Toledo IIRC) for $50. Do you want me to see if it's still there? It wouldn't be a hassle as it's next door to where I got to get my gyro's (YUM!).


I don't know... Is it new and is it worth $50? I was hoping to spend less. I <3 gyros! Its hard because I'm vegetarian, but I can get a falafel gyro at this place in Washington near us in the summer







.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Too quickly in the real world? Is there such a thing? Completely unrelated, I found out a few months ago that my car has a speed governor on it...


I thought you were the one who told me not to drive fast... Oh well, I won't tell








.
Just curious, since you found out your car was governed through, cough, research, what speed does it stop at?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
I don't know... Is it new and is it worth $50? I was hoping to spend less. I <3 gyros! Its hard because I'm vegetarian, but I can get a falafel gyro at this place in Washington near us in the summer







.

MMMMMMMM GYRO'S! I love them things, the place I get them from also sells gyro meat. $9/LB, but it's usually way more than a pound.

As for the 3800x2, I remember that it's definitely not a Manchester, so it should overclock fairly well. Hell I got my 3800x2 Manchester to 2700 w/o issue.
Is it worth $50, I'd say that's a fair price for it. And no it's not new.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *philhalo66* 
my HTPC desktop

Philhalo66, welcome to the Socket 939 Club









I have added in your CPU-Z validation into the roster. Let us know if you have any questions.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

BlackOmega: It is in fact a Ford. If ever I have a chance to try it again, I will give your fix a shot.

nategr8ns: The car came with "S" rated tires, which are rated to be good to at least 112 MPH.* The speedometer read 110 when the tachometer cut out, but I know from experience that my speedometer is a bit off, to the tune of reading approximately 2.5% higher than it should. Do not worry, the car now how has V tires, which are good to at least 149 MPH. (Michelin Pilot Exalto A/S.) At the time I did it, I had on B.F. Goodrich Traction T/A tires, in the H (130 MPH) designation. Those tires were garbage though, with terrible snow traction, and started rotting around 40% of the warranted mileage. After fighting with Michelin (Michelin owns B.F. Goodrich) for about a week, they finally agreed to prorate their tires as per their warranty, provided I buy another B.F. Goodrich or Michelin tire. I miss the General Altimax HP I had on my first Focus; much better tire than either the Traction T/A or the Pilot Exalto A/S. (If you are curious why I did not buy the Altimax when I got this Focus: the tire shop I go to did not carry General tires anymore, and I was too lazy to try to find another dealer. Lesson learned.)

*Remember folks, always obey your local traffic laws.


----------



## Blitz6804

philhalo66: You are now officially on the off-site roster.

To all: the shout box has been broken by Webs. Accordingly, it has been removed from the site.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


BlackOmega: It is in fact a Ford. If ever I have a chance to try it again, I will give your fix a shot.

nategr8ns: The car came with "S" rated tires, which are rated to be good to at least 112 MPH.* The speedometer read 110 when the tachometer cut out, but I know from experience that my speedometer is a bit off, to the tune of reading approximately 2.5% higher than it should. Do not worry, the car now how has V tires, which are good to at least 149 MPH. (Michelin Pilot Exalto A/S.) At the time I did it, I had on B.F. Goodrich Traction T/A tires, in the H (130 MPH) designation. Those tires were garbage though, with terrible snow traction, and started rotting around 40% of the warranted mileage. After fighting with Michelin (Michelin owns B.F. Goodrich) for about a week, they finally agreed to prorate their tires as per their warranty, provided I buy another B.F. Goodrich or Michelin tire. I miss the General Altimax HP I had on my first Focus; much better tire than either the Traction T/A or the Pilot Exalto A/S. (If you are curious why I did not buy the Altimax when I got this Focus: the tire shop I go to did not carry General tires anymore, and I was too lazy to try to find another dealer. Lesson learned.)

*Remember folks, always obey your local traffic laws.


 It should work Blitz. You might want to check in your owners manual to be certain. That's how it was on the mustangs. A friend and I were "in a hurry" on the freeway and he told me his car cut out @ ~125. That's when i did some digging and found that out. However, his car was OBD I (OBD= on board diagnostics), I'm not sure if it works with OBD II ('96 model year cars and newer). OBD is the "computer" on a car.

As far as tires are concerned, I typically never use anything less than a H rating. On my actual fast cars, I never used anything less than a Z rating, which is usually faster than the cars will go.

As far as traction is concerned, you're absolutely right about those (lack of) Traction T/A's. They're absolutely horrible tires. My folks had them on both of their Tauruses and last winter my mom got stuck in one of them and wound up frying the transmission trying to get unstuck







.

My most recent favorite's were the Bridgestone Potenza RE960 Pole Positions. Excellent tires and reasonably priced too. I got a set for my brothers BMW and after we had an ice storm, he was praising those tires. He said they barely would even shimmy in spots were other cars would flat out lose control. He was using Yokohama YK520's. 
I'm running Michelin Pilot HX MXM4's on my Probe, also a great tire. Kind of expensive though.

And now that we're on this subject, I just want to say one thing to all of you guys, DON'T BUY CHEAP TIRES!!!!!!
Remember the only thing holding you and your x thousand pound car to the road is those tires, be sure they're the best that you can afford. (You can find reviews and some pretty good deals at Tirerack). 
And if you live in really snowy areas get some damn snows. Your life is worth more than the $400-$500 you might spend on them.


----------



## Blitz6804

$400-500? Where are you buying your tires? Every time I buy tires, I have spent at least $1000 on them, upwards of $1200 when I bought tires for my Sable.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


$400-500? Where are you buying your tires? Every time I buy tires, I have spent at least $1000 on them, upwards of $1200 when I bought tires for my Sable.


I need 235/75R15's for my Jeep which is about $100 per,so $400-$500 is about correct. It also depends what brand/performance and size you need. I CAN find $400 tires for my Jeep, but that doesn't mean it needs them.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


I need 235/75R15's for my Jeep which is about $100 per,so $400-$500 is about correct. It also depends what brand/performance and size you need. I CAN find $400 tires for my Jeep, but that doesn't mean it needs them.


Yeah, my car takes 195/70R15's, and I can get a set of four for $120 mounted and balanced. Granted I usually buy used tires, hence the low price. But I can find that size NEW for as low as $60 / tire.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


$400-500? Where are you buying your tires? Every time I buy tires, I have spent at least $1000 on them, upwards of $1200 when I bought tires for my Sable.


 Dude, you were getting taken (trust me, I used to sell tires). Depending on the size, and obviously Brand, good tires should cost no more than $150 each, excellent tires will obviously be a lot more. Also, if you have an oddball tire size, that also makes the price go way up.

Check that tirerack site I linked to they have pretty good prices. Hell for as much as you were spending on your tires alone, at tire rack you could've gotten new tires mounted on rims. Then all you need to do is bolt them on.

If any of you guys have any automotive questions, ask me. It's not an inconvenience, I'll gladly help or advise you as to the best course of action. 
If you think that some shop is trying to BS you or rip you off, PM me. I'll tell you if it's fair or even a necessary repair.


----------



## Blitz6804

I looked it up. The tires I spent $1200 on are now down to $1000. (Better production lines nowadays?) They had an outstanding 80k mile warranty, and actually lasted nearly the entire thing. Those tires could hold the road in rain, snow, or whatever else I threw at it. The tires on this car now (which were actually $900 after tax, not $1000, sorry) handle snow decently enough, but not well enough for my tastes. Most of the tires for my size are expensive, with limited warranties, because my car has a size that is popular with "tuners." Fun times.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I looked it up. The tires I spent $1200 on are now down to $1000. (Better production lines nowadays?) They had an outstanding 80k mile warranty, and actually lasted nearly the entire thing. Those tires could hold the road in rain, snow, or whatever else I threw at it. The tires on this car now (which were actually $900 after tax, not $1000, sorry) handle snow decently enough, but not well enough for my tastes. Most of the tires for my size are expensive, with limited warranties, because my car has a size that is popular with "tuners." Fun times.

Out of curiosity, what are the original tires and what size are they?

Factory tires are usually considerably more expensive than the tires you get from a tire store. While the model # might be exactly the same, the tire physically will be different. I ran in to this at Acura all the time. Acura's Michelins are specific for them. Making a tire that should cost no more than $150, cost $250 due to the exclusivity of it. And usually the only difference will be something silly like a rim guard. Usually, every other aspect is identical.

PS: The reason they dropped is because they probably started making more of them in that size.

(I gtg for a bit I'll be back in a little while.)


----------



## Blitz6804

The factory tires P205/50R16 86S, maybe 87S. I know not the make or model, as both Focii I bought were used; both had new tires put on by the dealer. In both cases, they were Firestone tires which had problems holding the road in dry weather... I shudder to think how they would handle in snow. I now have P205/50R16 87V.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Dude, you were getting taken (trust me, I used to sell tires). Depending on the size, and obviously Brand, good tires should cost no more than $150 each,

BlackOmega, $150 at the MOST. The tires on my civic are a little over $100 at Walmart (40k warranty).

Is rubber more expensive in your area Blitz? Geeze not even my bfg drag radials were that much.


----------



## Blitz6804

Tire recycling and reclamation fees? Taxes? And Pio, unlike Washington, Used tires are strictly prohibited in New York. Perhaps since there is no competition of the used market, manufacturers sell a bit higher?

I notice also Thlnk3r that tires up here in Buffalo area are cheaper than on Long Island. This likely has to do with shipping; anything shipped to Long Island must go though New York City and all associated tolls.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I notice also Thlnk3r that tires up here in Buffalo area are cheaper than on Long Island. This likely has to do with shipping; anything shipped to Long Island must go though New York City and all associated tolls.

Blitz, I figured it was something like that. Maybe even the weather effects the prices as well. You outta drive out a little ways to see if you can get them cheaper...


----------



## Blitz6804

The problem is though: how far do you go before the costs to obtain the tire exceed the savings? Further, what if you damage a tire? Is there a close location that will honor the warranty? The road hazard? What is their policy; free repair/replacement? Pro-rated replacement? All things that factor into cost.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Further, what if you damage a tire? Is there a close location that will honor the warranty? The road hazard? What is their policy; free repair/replacement? Pro-rated replacement? All things that factor into cost.


Blitz, good points. I guess I'm just spoiled by Walmarts $10 tire plugs/patches


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Philhalo66, welcome to the Socket 939 Club









I have added in your CPU-Z validation into the roster. Let us know if you have any questions.

Good luck


thanks, you know these socket 939's aren't too bad i can max out left 4 dead and get a solid 47 fps witch isn't too bad, even crysis runs at 30 fps minimum on medium.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


The factory tires P205/50R16 86S, maybe 87S. I know not the make or model, as both Focii I bought were used; both had new tires put on by the dealer. In both cases, they were Firestone tires which had problems holding the road in dry weather... I shudder to think how they would handle in snow. I now have P205/50R16 87V.


 Blitz, IMO you were overcharged by ~$150. Yes those Michelins are nice tires and all, but they're not that expensive. The best thing you can do when buying tires is call around. A few minutes on the phone can save you a lot of money.

Look at the available tires for your car.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, $150 at the MOST. The tires on my civic are a little over $100 at Walmart (40k warranty).

Is rubber more expensive in your area Blitz? Geeze not even my bfg drag radials were that much.


Well thats the thing thinker, it all depends on size and quality. Those Michelin Pilots I have are $199 a piece @ tirerack in my size. 
The Mustang tire sizes are a lot more common so tires are cheaper. Even the 17's.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


The problem is though: how far do you go before the costs to obtain the tire exceed the savings? Further, what if you damage a tire? Is there a close location that will honor the warranty? The road hazard? What is their policy; free repair/replacement? Pro-rated replacement? All things that factor into cost.


 How often do you really blow out a tire? I've had very few actual blowouts, more often the damage to the tire is a puncture. And most places will repair a tire for less than $25. Most places it's not even that.

So if you save $150 (or more) even if you had to have your tire repaired 4 times @ $25 it would still be worth it. And actually if you bought the tires on tirerack, went to Sears and had them mount and balance them, part of the deal is that they'll rotate and balance and repair your tires for free. And you know Sears has a lot of locations nationwide.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *philhalo66*


thanks, you know these socket 939's aren't too bad i can max out left 4 dead and get a solid 47 fps witch isn't too bad, even crysis runs at 30 fps minimum on medium.


 Throw in your 4870 and watch what happens to the framerates.







Using the ingame "video stress test" in CSS I get an average of 218 FPS. Crysis 1680x1050, DX9, High, 16xAA 30fps.








Quite honestly, the 939's handle just about any game out there quite easily.


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Blitz, IMO you were overcharged by ~$150. Yes those Michelins are nice tires and all, but they're not that expensive. The best thing you can do when buying tires is call around. A few minutes on the phone can save you a lot of money.

Look at the available tires for your car.

Well thats the thing thinker, it all depends on size and quality. Those Michelin Pilots I have are $199 a piece @ tirerack in my size. 
The Mustang tire sizes are a lot more common so tires are cheaper. Even the 17's.

How often do you really blow out a tire? I've had very few actual blowouts, more often the damage to the tire is a puncture. And most places will repair a tire for less than $25. Most places it's not even that.

So if you save $150 (or more) even if you had to have your tire repaired 4 times @ $25 it would still be worth it. And actually if you bought the tires on tirerack, went to Sears and had them mount and balance them, part of the deal is that they'll rotate and balance and repair your tires for free. And you know Sears has a lot of locations nationwide.

Throw in your 4870 and watch what happens to the framerates.







Using the ingame "video stress test" in CSS I get an average of 218 FPS. Crysis 1680x1050, DX9, High, 16xAA 30fps.








Quite honestly, the 939's handle just about any game out there quite easily.



lols i did have my 4870 in it, its the motherboard its an HP OEM and the 16X lane is only got a 2X link width


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *philhalo66*


lols i did have my 4870 in it, its the motherboard its an HP OEM and the 16X lane is only got a 2X link width


 O that sucks about PCIe lane. But even @ 2x it should do fairly well


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


O that sucks about PCIe lane. But even @ 2x it should do fairly well










yeah it used to be my main PC until about last January and i played crysis wars all the time and crysis and i got about the same performance as i did with my 4870 it must be the lane but that CPU has some serious power for an older system

lol wow i must be more tired than i thought i cant seem to type at all


----------



## MalXenos

Oh i might have to digg out my 939 mobo. Dont think i have my 4600+ anymore but i may have a sempron proc laying around.


----------



## Blitz6804

BlackOmega: Maybe. However, as I said, the prior tires needed to be pro-rated. I got a 47% pro-rate on the Prior Traction T/As, to the tune of $453. The end result is that the Pilots only cost me $447. As to punctures, I have free replacement in the first 12 months or 12,000 miles, free repairs for life. Also, lifetime free rotations and free N2Flation (it is air with the water and oxygen removed, which is supposed to reduce rotting) whenever I want to have it done. That right there is a savings of about $18 a year (as compared to filling the tires with air from the gas station) or $54 a year (as compared to having to pay for N2Flation each time).


----------



## N2Gaming

Greetings all & new members alike.
 








Congrats on the new AM3 parts Joe.

Tires are a dime a dozen. I agree w/BO that you should save as much money as you can on them. I always buy the tires at one shop and go the the cheapest place to have them mounted and then tell them I will take my used tires w/me to save on disposal fee's. I then come back at night and give them the used tires after they are closed. I just add them to the pile they already have. I know shame on me but hey I'm not rich by any means.

As far as roadside hazzard protection, yada yada yada. In my mind it's all a waiste of money. Get your tires mounted and ballenced as cheap as you can. Save your money. Chances are your gonna have to spend money on the mounting & ballancing. I have never seen a totally free tire replacement. In fact Sears backed out of their warranty when I ran over a soda or beer bottle in the curb. They told me it looked like some one took a knife to the tire. It was a road hazzard and they did not honor their warranty so they will never get my tire or mechanical bussiness again. I make it a point to tell every one about it to...

Just get 4 good tires on line and have them shipped to you then have them mounted & ballanced at the cheapest place you can. My truck tires are like $175 or so. They are Good Year Eagle GT T/A 235x16 or something along those lines. I bought a couple of tires at walmart on the clearance rack. Good Year stopped making the tire that came on my truck new so I bought up all the clearance tires at differnt walmarts. I now have a screw in one of the tires and need a new one but am not driving atm so I just let it sit until I can drive again.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *philhalo66* 
its the motherboard its an HP OEM and the 16X lane is only got a 2X link width

Philhalo66, what is the model number of this HP motherboard?


----------



## Blitz6804

Not to speak for philhalo66, but his CPU-Z validation says he is on a Hewlett Packard OEM by the name of "AmethystM," which is an MSI MS-7184 running the ATi Radeon Xpress 200 chipset.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Not to speak for philhalo66, but his CPU-Z validation says he is on a Hewlett Packard OEM by the name of "AmethystM," which is an MSI MS-7184 running the ATi Radeon Xpress 200 chipset.

Blitz, thanks for pointing that out.

Philhalo66, after reading the manual here, it almost sounds like the PCIe x16 slot should be running at 2x speed.

Maybe it's just me but can anyone remember a way to force the speed via software? I thought there was a way


----------



## Blitz6804

It is supposedly a PCIe 1.0 16x, there is no reason why it should be forced to only run in 2x. In my BIOS, there are settings of exactly what speed I want it, but with an OEM board mileage may vary. Is it possible that the IRQs are somehow conflicted between the GPU and a PCI card?


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
If any of you guys have any automotive questions, ask me. It's not an inconvenience, I'll gladly help or advise you as to the best course of action.
If you think that some shop is trying to BS you or rip you off, PM me. I'll tell you if it's fair or even a necessary repair.

PM incoming


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Is it possible that the IRQs are somehow conflicted between the GPU and a PCI card?

Blitz, if that were the case wouldn't conflicts show up in the device manager?


----------



## Blitz6804

I would suspect so. GPU-Z would show the speed easily enough, which I think is how he came up with it only be 2x. It is possible the contacts are dirty since the motherboard did not originally have an HD 4870 in it.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I would suspect so. GPU-Z would show the speed easily enough, which I think is how he came up with it only be 2x. It is possible the contacts are dirty since the motherboard did not originally have an HD 4870 in it.

Blitz, I wonder if it's hard coded into the bios. I mean it is a proprietary board from HP right? ....so I wouldn't be surprised


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I would suspect so. GPU-Z would show the speed easily enough, which I think is how he came up with it only be 2x. It is possible the contacts are dirty since the motherboard did not originally have an HD 4870 in it.


I don't think he should worry to much.

A HD5870 works at 75% on a PCIe x1 2.0 bus (proof)
So if you consider that an HD4870x2 would roughly need the same bandwidth as an HD5870, then half of that bandwidth would be needed for a HD4870
So a 25% loss would turn into a 13% loss at best.

Though, he might want to check his bios for PEG Port Force x1 or Check the BIOS to see if there is an option of " force PCIE to 1x..." or any other options for PCIe or PEG port


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


. 
Though, he might want to check his bios for PEG Port Force x1 or Check the BIOS to see if there is an option of " force PCIE to 1x..." or any other options for PCIe or PEG port


Tator, interesting point. Here is some more info on PEG Port Force: http://www.techarp.com/showFreeBOG.a...ng=0&bogno=333.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
BlackOmega: Maybe. However, as I said, the prior tires needed to be pro-rated. I got a 47% pro-rate on the Prior Traction T/As, to the tune of $453. The end result is that the Pilots only cost me $447. As to punctures, I have free replacement in the first 12 months or 12,000 miles, free repairs for life. Also, lifetime free rotations and free N2Flation (it is air with the water and oxygen removed, which is supposed to reduce rotting) whenever I want to have it done. That right there is a savings of about $18 a year (as compared to filling the tires with air from the gas station) or $54 a year (as compared to having to pay for N2Flation each time).

Well Blitz buddy, I personally would never go back to that place ever again. Even with the prorate, I think they're sheissters. $900 for those pilots is just flat out robbery (Remember they're $524 for a set @ tirerack). That mark up is INSANE! And remember since the tires were warrantied, you shouldn't have paid for disposal as they're technically supposed to go back to the manufacturer for inspection. Whether they actually do that or not is another story.

And like I said, taking it to Sears is actually better (N2 I know you had a bad experience there but it actually is a good place, next time ask to speak to the store manager). @ $22 (last I checked), you get mounting and balancing, free flat repair for the life of the tires, free rotation and balancing (balancing costs roughly $10/wheel) for the life of the tires.

As for the N2flation, its just nitrogen. Supposedly, nitrogen molecules are larger and help keep the proper tire inflation during weather changes. I think its just a gimmick, as the "regular" air is what 78% Nitrogen?

At any rate, now you'll know for next time. Or if you just want a better deal, PM me and I'll see if I can pull some strings out there. I'm good like that







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Lesson #1 in life: Don't be LAZY.









(Sorry for OT. Just had to say it.







)


----------



## Blitz6804

BlackOmega: From the place I bought the Traction T/As, I got free mounting, and for the life of the tire, free rotation, free balancing, and free alignments. Free repairs or pro-rated replacement as required by the level of damage. The place I got the Pilots from is similar, but only free alignment checks, not full alignments, and comes with N2flation rather than air. The $453 was a check directly from Michelin, not given to me by any tire retailer.

Air is in fact 78% nitrogen. The problem is that about 21% of that remainder includes oxygen and water, two compounds known to cause tires to rot with time. In an area that salts as heavily as Buffalo does, every little bit helps. (Considering, as I said, my Traction T/As were rotting when they were pro rated.) In any event, I never should have gotten mixed up in Michelin, and just looked around for the General tires I liked so much. Hindsight, and Joe, are 20/20.)

$376 for mounting, lifetime balancing, lifetime rotations, free alignment checks, lifetime N2flation ($20 a pop), road hazard, tire recycling fees* (charged on all new tires sold in NYS), pressure sensors** (required in NYS as of... 2007?), sales tax, et cetera***, is unreasonable?

* $2.50 on all tires sold in New York. $2.25 goes to the state, 25Â¢ goes to the dealer.
** I am unsure how much these cost, but my gut is saying around $2.50 a tire
*** Also includes the dumping fees on the old tires, valve stems, and even though I will never use it since I have AAA, it also has free 24/7 roadside assistance

EDIT: Sears used to be good when I was younger, they are not so much anymore. They used to give lifetime balance and alignments with tire purchases. Also unlimited pro-rate: whatever the manufacturer did not cover when the tire died early, Sears would cover. They started trying to shirk out of their duties later in my life, likely because they no longer offered the policies, but any tire bought with or pro-rated under maintained that policy.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
BlackOmega: From the place I bought the Traction T/As, I got free mounting, and for the life of the tire, free rotation, free balancing, and free alignments. Free repairs or pro-rated replacement as required by the level of damage. The place I got the Pilots from is similar, but only free alignment checks, not full alignments, and comes with N2flation rather than air. *The $453 was a check directly from Michelin, not given to me by any tire retailer*.

Did you send the tires to them?









Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Air is in fact 78% nitrogen. The problem is that about 21% of that remainder includes oxygen and water, two compounds known to cause tires to rot with time. *In an area that salts as heavily as Buffalo does, every little bit helps.* (Considering, as I said, my Traction T/As were rotting when they were pro rated.) In any event, I never should have gotten mixed up in Michelin, and just looked around for the General tires I liked so much. Hindsight, and Joe, are 20/20.)

Trust me I know about this. Detroit sits on top of a salt mine and man they use SOOO much salt it's unreal. It's not at all uncommon to see rust on 2 year old cars here.

Thats exactly what happened to my '85 mustang. The subframe just became so rusty in spots that the car, IMO, was unsafe to drive. So I Stripped it down and gave the rolling rotted out chassis away.

At any rate, the sun does more damage to the tires than salt. Washing your car about once a week in the high salt times is important to the overall vehicle longevity. Undercoating a car is a good idea too.

EDIT: Also using tire products like armorall are really bad for your tires too. You're supposed to use a tire _conditioner_. It gives it a nice clean look but not all greasy lookin. Also armorall is really slippery, after you armorall your tires it's a lot easier to slide around. That's why they don't use it on bikes.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
$376 for mounting, lifetime balancing, lifetime rotations, free alignment checks, lifetime N2flation ($20 a pop), road hazard, tire recycling fees* (charged on all new tires sold in NYS), pressure sensors** (required in NYS as of... 2007?), sales tax, et cetera***, is unreasonable?

I think so. You can get real alignments for $59.99 for 4 wheels. 2 wheel alignments are typically ~$10-15 less.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
EDIT: Sears used to be good when I was younger, they are not so much anymore. They used to give lifetime balance and alignments with tire purchases. Also unlimited pro-rate: whatever the manufacturer did not cover when the tire died early, Sears would cover. They started trying to shirk out of their duties later in my life, likely because they no longer offered the policies, but any tire bought with or pro-rated under maintained that policy.

The last set I had mounted there was in .....'06. It cost me $88 to get 4 tires mounted, which included all the perks that you had except for free alignment checks.
And as mentioned earlier, alignments only cost $60. You could get 4 actual 4 wheel alignments in the same time period. Do you think you'll align a car 4 times during the lifespan of a set of tires? I highly doubt it.


----------



## Hueristic

Just to let you guys know I've some connection issues and lots of crap going on so I'm gonna be scarce for a little while.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Just to let you guys know I've some connection issues


Hueristic, what kind of connection issues? Is it anything we can assist you with?

Good luck buddy


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Just to let you guys know I've some connection issues and lots of crap going on so I'm gonna be scarce for a little while.










I hope it's nothing like what I just finished fixing.

I got Virus on my Majic Jack system. This time I thought I was done for because it was disabling my Task manager on every reboot. Then it finally disabled my browser some how after downloading and installing Avast Home 4.8 Luckily I was still able to do system updates. I was still on SP1 w/out any updates.

So I got a bright idea of doing a system restore. What do you know it worked so far. I just finished updating to SP2 and all the other updates just to make sure it won't happen again. Well at least I hope not. Now to install Avast Home 4.8 again and see if it catches anything this time.


----------



## Blitz6804

I warned you about that MagicJack...

Good to see you caught the problem though.


----------



## N2Gaming

Yeah I know & Thanks.

For now I'm using the Majic Jack system just to log onto my OCN account. This is because BNBB is still down to bare metal chassis. I'm not using any email or other applications or doing any online banking on this system. I just finished putting some touch up paint on BNBB a little while ago. I took some picks of the chassis before I did the touch ups, so maybe I'll have an update later if I get around to it.

Edit: forgot to mention avast is running a full system scan now.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Edit: forgot to mention avast is running a full system scan now.

N2Gaming, make sure to run the "Thorough Scan" in Avast. This setting will also scan archived files. It will take longer but I strongly recommend it.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, make sure to run the "Thorough Scan" in Avast. This setting will also scan archived files. It will take longer but I strongly recommend it.

Good luck

Thanks thlnk3r, That is exactly what I am doing and what I ment to say when I said full system scan









I just looked at my MS Security Center and is says my Virus Scanner reports being out of date. LOL i just installed it. I guess I can do an Avast update and reboot and do another scan after MS Security Center reports my virus scanner is up to date.









Edit: it just found one and I opted to put it in the Chest.


----------



## Blitz6804

For maximum efficiency, I run all spyware / virus scans in Safe Mode at least once a month. This permits them to clean files that would usually be in use. My semi-regular system maintenance is:

Boot to safe mode
Run Windows disk cleanup
Run anti-virus
Run Spybot S&D
Run CCleaner until nothing comes up
Run CCleaner's "Wipe Free Space"
Defrag
Reboot to safe mode again
Defrag
Run CCleaner's "Wipe Free Space"
Reboot to normal mode to use computer

Since doing it again two days ago, my hard drive thrashing has gone way down. Not to mention, I got back 6% of my hard drive, and strangely, cut RAM usage by about 10%.


----------



## N2Gaming

Wow that is pretty intense blitz. I guess it is the best method though A?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Just to let you guys know I've some connection issues and lots of crap going on so I'm gonna be scarce for a little while.










Hey Hue, hurry back.

The place ain't the same without ya.

@ Blitzy: Interesting regimen (and results) with system cleanup. I shall have to give that a try myself.

Bleh, too busy these days to do much more than just pop on from time to time. My apologies, my friends. Too busy at work, working; too busy at home, writing (and having breaks playing rFactor).

Re: rFactor: I've said it in several places on OCN, quite a few times: This is probably THE best racing/driving sim that I personally have a lot of seat time with. RACE07/GTR2/GTR Evolution are merely sim-like in comparison. rFactor satisfies all of your enthusiast driving instincts/racing instincts like no other sim available that I've tried.

With a less limited budget of time and money, I'd love to give iRacing.com, Live For Speed, and NetKar Pro a spin; of these, I think NetKar Pro looks the most promising. But for now, rFactor is as addictive and engrossing as it gets.

(My OCN Twitter buddies are probably sick of me talking about it.







)


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


(My OCN Twitter buddies are probably sick of me talking about it.








)


----------



## N2Gaming

Avast just finished the scan and it only found the one that got put in the chest. Is it safe to leave it in the chest or do I need to do something else w/that file that got sent to the chest. Also you can see from the picture that Avast was not able to scan Drive E: I think that is because Drive E: is probably the Majic Jack itself. IDK


----------



## Blitz6804

Joe: the results are less impressive on XP than they are in Vista. (I do the same regimen in both my Vista and XP systems.) With Vista's shadow copies running unchecked, you could sometimes recover upwards of 120 GB of hard drive. (True story; the first time I ran this cleanup after I had reinstalled everything I recovered 120 GB.) More-typically, I get 10-15 GB from just the Vista hard drive cleanup, 5-10 GB from CCleaner and Defrag. In XP, the whole setup gets about 5-15 GB back.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Joe: the results are less impressive on XP than they are in Vista. (I do the same regimen in both my Vista and XP systems.) With Vista's shadow copies running unchecked, you could sometimes recover upwards of 120 GB of hard drive. (True story; the first time I ran this cleanup after I had reinstalled everything I recovered 120 GB.) More-typically, I get 10-15 GB from just the Vista hard drive cleanup, 5-10 GB from CCleaner and Defrag. In XP, the whole setup gets about 5-15 GB back.


Coolness.









Presently I've only got one runner at the apartment, and it's a Vista machine. Great to know the method has a tangible and significant benefit.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I guess I can do an Avast update and reboot.


N2Gaming, for Avast you don't have to restart if you're updating the virus definition table. However if you update the application itself it will require a restart.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


(My OCN Twitter buddies are probably sick of me talking about it.







)


Joe, no worries man. I enjoy hearing about the game. The BMW F1 is hawt!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Avast just finished the scan and it only found the one that got put in the chest. Is it safe to leave it in the chest or do I need to do something else w/that file that got sent to the chest. Also you can see from the picture that Avast was not able to scan Drive E: I think that is because Drive E: is probably the Majic Jack itself. IDK


Having the viruses in your chest won't cause harm to the rest of your system so really there's no need to worry about it. Click "Action" on the top left of the window, you should be able to delete them from your chest from there.

Remove the Majic Jack and see if the E: drive disappears from My Computer. If it does then you know that was it.

Just for the heck of it do a boot time scan with Avast. Right-click in the scanner screen and select, "schedule a boot time scan" and then restart. Be careful when doing this though because I've had viruses infect crucial .dll files and Avast deleted the virus as well as the .dll file. To be honest if I get infected with a virus I hose my machine and start from fresh.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks thlnk3r, for some reason that option to scan from boot is grey'd out dissalbing the option. I'll reboot and see if I get the option after the system reboots.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thanks thlnk3r, for some reason that option to scan from boot is grey'd out dissalbing the option. I'll reboot and see if I get the option after the system reboots.


N2Gaming, my apologizes. The "boot time scanner" is not supported in a 64-bit operating system


----------



## Blitz6804

Try the safe mode method I use. Works for McAfee and Norton, I do not see why Avast would not like it.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, my apologizes. The "boot time scanner" is not supported in a 64-bit operating system









NP at least I now know that there is nothing wrong w/my Avast install









Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Try the safe mode method I use. Works for McAfee and Norton, I do not see why Avast would not like it.

Is that safe mode w/networking or just plain safemode w/out networking?


----------



## Blitz6804

Without networking. The last thing you want is to have networking on when you suspect you have a virus. As soon as I suspect I have a virus, I immediately pull the ethernet cable out if nothing else.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I do not see why Avast would not like it.

http://www.avast.com/eng/faq-cant-us...time-scan.html

Quote:

*Q: Why canÂ´t I use the boot-time scan? That option is greyed out in the menu!*

A: Boot-time scan is available on NT-based Windows systems only (Windows NT, 2000, XP, 2003 and Vista). Also, it is currently *not* supported in 64-bit operating systems.
The advantage of scanning in safe-mode will allow you to have a "easier" time cleaning. Running in safe-mode doesn't necessarily mean you're going to detect 20 more viruses.


----------



## N2Gaming

That makes sense blitz. I useually pull the plug as well when I suspect a virus or turn off my router so no traffic goes either way.

Oh yeah I tried unplugging the MJ per your suggestion thlnk3r and that is what the E: & F: Drives were.









Thanks guys


----------



## Blitz6804

thlnk3r: My programs will find the same virii/spyware either way, but while in safe mode it can remove them whereas in normal mode I get the annoying "file in use yadda yadda."


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
thlnk3r: My programs will find the same virii/spyware either way, but while in safe mode it can remove them whereas in normal mode I get the annoying "file in use yadda yadda."

Blitz, thank you for elaborating on my last post


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


thlnk3r: My programs will find the same virii/spyware either way, but while in safe mode it can remove them whereas in normal mode I get the annoying "file in use yadda yadda."


So would safemode also work when doing REGEDIT type work. for example, lets say if I was trying to remove any virus files in REGEDIT during a normal boot and REGEDIT program tells me "file in use yadda yadda."

Would this not happen in safe mode?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


So would safemode also work when doing REGEDIT type work. for example, lets say if I was trying to remove any virus files in REGEDIT during a normal boot and REGEDIT program tells me "file in use yadda yadda."

Would this not happen in safe mode?


N2Gaming, you can remove any registry entry while in Windows regardless if it's in Safe mode or not (as far as I know).

Safe mode is recommended because it only loads minimal system files. This makes it easier if you need to delete system files that may have been running in the background during "normal" mode.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

OK then maybe I was doing it wrong. because some times I get a message can't remove this file it is a important file or something like that. LOL


----------



## mattliston

just to let you guys know, mawlwarebytes anti malware has a file assassin that stops a process form using it and deletes it


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Hueristic, what kind of connection issues? Is it anything we can assist you with?

Good luck buddy

Nah, just time consuming when I don't have the time or the drive ATM.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I hope it's nothing like what I just finished fixing...

Thankfully not.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
OK then maybe I was doing it wrong. because some times I get a message can't remove this file it is a important file or something like that. LOL

Have you tried Unlocker? I think there is a 64bit version now. Just make sure you really know that file isn't needed!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Nah, just time consuming when I don't have the time or the drive ATM.

Thankfully not.









Have you tried Unlocker? I think there is a 64bit version now. Just make sure you really know that file isn't needed!
















No I have never heard of it. Thankfully my system has not done what it was doing earlier. It's now up to date & running smooth as silk.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Hey Hue, hurry back.

The place ain't the same without ya.

@ Blitzy: Interesting regimen (and results) with system cleanup. I shall have to give that a try myself.

Bleh, too busy these days to do much more than just pop on from time to time. My apologies, my friends. Too busy at work, working; too busy at home, writing (and having breaks playing rFactor).

Re: rFactor: I've said it in several places on OCN, quite a few times: This is probably THE best racing/driving sim that I personally have a lot of seat time with. RACE07/GTR2/GTR Evolution are merely sim-like in comparison. rFactor satisfies all of your enthusiast driving instincts/racing instincts like no other sim available that I've tried.

With a less limited budget of time and money, I'd love to give iRacing.com, Live For Speed, and NetKar Pro a spin; of these, I think NetKar Pro looks the most promising. But for now, rFactor is as addictive and engrossing as it gets.

(My OCN Twitter buddies are probably sick of me talking about it.







)

Think we're all getting a bit more busy these days.







I've come to find out that I actually have to (start) reading my textbooks this semester







O well so far I'm managing b in 3 of my classes and an A- in math without opening a single textbook yet.









As for rFactor, is there a demo somewhere? I'd love to find a good sim. The last good racing sims that I played were GT 1 & GT2. Yep, old school. Those games actually "felt" like you were really driving the cars. The GT's after that just don't look right. The speedo says you're going 150, yet it looks like you're doing 25.







Not to mention what they did with the handling. Cars that should turn on a dime understeer like crazy and you go off-roading







Not that I mind off-roading, but I'd prefer to do it in a Baja truck not a slammed Tommy Kaira ZZII.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mattliston*


just to let you guys know, mawlwarebytes anti malware has a file assassin that stops a process form using it and deletes it










Mattliston, malwarebytes is actually a pretty good anti-malware/spyware app. A user at work became infected with "total security" and I was able to successfully remove it by using malwarebytes. I love how " total security" posed as fake anti-virus application (click here now to remove the virus ect). Of course immediately they think they have a virus so they click the pop up. Ack big mess sometimes


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Mattliston, malwarebytes is actually a pretty good anti-malware/spyware app. A user at work became infected with "total security" and I was able to successfully remove it by using malwarebytes. *I love how " total security" posed as fake anti-virus application (click here now to remove the virus ect). Of course immediately they think they have a virus so they click the pop up. Ack big mess sometimes *




















Lol, even my parents that are about as computer illiterate as you can get know not to click any of those pop-ups for any reason.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Lol, even my parents that are about as computer illiterate as you can get know not to click any of those pop-ups for any reason.









But it said I had 26 viruses!!!!!!!11111 *sarcasm*


----------



## N2Gaming

That's the same virus that I got on BNBB a while back that I removed and have not had to reformat and install so far. Heck that was several months ago. That thing is still around.

So I did another throrough scan and when it was done it said that I had 2 compression bombs that it could not move to chest or delete. These files are associated w/Crysis. I'm not sure if they are updates that I down loaded or if they are just reported as Decompression bombs when they are not. IDK how to tell the difference.

Here is a picture of what Avast is telling me.


----------



## Blitz6804

I just checked my install N2Gaming. I have both of the referenced files. I have Crysis installed, patched to 1.2.1 without any third-party content, so they should be okay.


----------



## N2Gaming

thanks blitz.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


So I did another thorough scan and when it was done it said that I had 2 compression bombs that it could not move to chest or delete. These files are associated w/Crysis. I'm not sure if they are updates that I down loaded or if they are just reported as Decompression bombs when they are not. IDK how to tell the difference.


N2Gaming, a "compression bomb" is just a highly compressed file (large compression ratio) containing a ton of data. More than likely it's just a false alarm. Can you remove the file? Sure but you may suffer some consequences in doing so









Good luck


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, a "compression bomb" is just a highly compressed file (large compression ratio) containing a ton of data. More than likely it's just a false alarm. Can you remove the file? Sure but you may suffer some consequences in doing so









Good luck


Exactly.

Some of my server backups on my RAID array come up with the same warning.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, a "compression bomb" is just a highly compressed file (large compression ratio) containing a ton of data. More than likely it's just a false alarm. Can you remove the file? Sure but you may suffer some consequences in doing so









Good luck


No Avast could not remove it. I was using this system to test a couple of my 9800GT cards in SLI while playing Crysis. I was trying to duplicate my artifacting that I have w/BNBB. When I get to a spot in Crysis my video goes haywire on BNBB. So the files are not important as far as the game goes but I don't know if it will break my OS by deleting the files. I'll just leave them alone then.

So it's nothing to worry about. Good to know.

Thanks guys.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
So the files are not important as far as the game goes but I don't know if it will break my OS by deleting the files. I'll just leave them alone then.

N2Gaming, the files are located in the directory for Crysis. I doubt removing them will cause harm to your operating system. Leaving them alone is probably your best bet. It looks like to me they are part of the game


----------



## BlackOmega

Well guys my GD70,720 and my Patriot viperfin memory just showed up. I'm like a kid in a candy store







. Unfortunately, I wont be able to do anything with it until tonight/tomorrow.







That and I have to back everything up ......again


----------



## Blitz6804

You MAY be lucky enough to just transfer the motherboard and CPU out for the same. The Crossfire Xpress 3200 chipset may use the same driver as the 790 FX, and so you might be able to get away with not needing to reinstall Windows completely. (Assuming you are replacing Problem Child.)


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
You MAY be lucky enough to just transfer the motherboard and CPU out for the same. The Crossfire Xpress 3200 chipset may use the same driver as the 790 FX, and so you might be able to get away with not needing to reinstall Windows completely. (Assuming you are replacing Problem Child.)

He'll need to whipe onboard LAN/Audio controllers

And the 790FX board's use AMD NB's but ATi SB's so he'll just be better off reinstalling.


----------



## Blitz6804

Both use Catalyst drivers. My computer was perfectly usable going from my Abit AT8-32x to my DFI DK 790FX-M2RS. However, individual results vary. The only problem I had between the two was USB devices did not work until Windows installed the correct driver. A PS/2 mouse and keyboard got me past that problem.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
You MAY be lucky enough to just transfer the motherboard and CPU out for the same. The Crossfire Xpress 3200 chipset may use the same driver as the 790 FX, and so you might be able to get away with not needing to reinstall Windows completely. (Assuming you are replacing Problem Child.)

Well the unfortunate thing is that my RAID array will not allow fora smooth transition since it is on the ULi controller. So no matter which way I slice it I've got reinstall. AFAIK, there isn't a program that will allow me to make an image and simply transfer it to a different controller.
No matter, I only have a few things to backup, probably less than a DVD's worth. And if these new PHII's are as fast as I'm assuming they are, re-installing shouldn't take very long at all.


----------



## Blitz6804

Ah, I had not thought of the fact yours is in RAID. I seem to recall Joe had a particular program he used to make imaging backups of his hard drive; you might be able to use that if you really wanted to.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Well the unfortunate thing is that my RAID array will not allow fora smooth transition since it is on the ULi controller. So no matter which way I slice it I've got reinstall. AFAIK, there isn't a program that will allow me to make an image and simply transfer it to a different controller.
No matter, I only have a few things to backup, probably less than a DVD's worth. And if these new PHII's are as fast as I'm assuming they are, re-installing shouldn't take very long at all.

Use Clonezilla


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Well the unfortunate thing is that my RAID array will not allow fora smooth transition since it is on the ULi controller. So no matter which way I slice it I've got reinstall. AFAIK, there isn't a program that will allow me to make an image and simply transfer it to a different controller.
No matter, I only have a few things to backup, probably less than a DVD's worth. And if these new PHII's are as fast as I'm assuming they are, re-installing shouldn't take very long at all.

BlackOmega, check out Acronis True Image as well.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Use Clonezilla

Thanks Tator







However I do have 1 question.

Quote:

Does Clonezilla support RAID ?
Clonezilla does support hardware RAID, if your RAID device is seen as /dev/sda, /dev/sdb, /dev/hda, /dev/hdb, /dev/cciss/c0d0... on GNU/Linux. Clonezilla does support this.
On the other hand, if it's Linux software RAID, no, Clonezilla does not support that.
How do I check how my RAID is "seen"?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, check out Acronis True Image as well.

I kind of halfassed looked but I didn't see it say anything about RAID arrays. It just says about what type of file systems are supported. Do you know if it works with RAID?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Thanks Tator







However I do have 1 question: How do I check how my RAID is "seen"?

That's really only pertinent to linux IIRC. I haven't had to mess with anything while backing up my PERC array.

Linux has a few different setup formats when dealing with RAID.


----------



## BlackOmega

Thanks Tator.









I'll have to read up on how to use it later. I've never actually copied an image so It'll be a learning experience







.

Another quick question, am I wrong in assuming that it clones all of the drivers as well?


----------



## Kryton

WHEW!

At least I did make it in to say "Howdy" for a change. Things are still crazy here and I'll probrably be scarce for awhile yet BUT the good news is cooler weather is on it's way. Once it's here, I'll be going for some new personal OC'ing records. You guys know what that means......


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
WHEW!

At least I did make it in to say "Howdy" for a change. Things are still crazy here and I'll probrably be scarce for awhile yet BUT the good news is cooler weather is on it's way. Once it's here, I'll be going for some new personal OC'ing records. You guys know what that means......









Hey Kryton, Long time. Good to see you make it back every once in a while.

Hey, just got my 720 today. Do you know of a place that has OC's and stepping?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Yo Kryton! Good to see you back!


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Hey Kryton, Long time. Good to see you make it back every once in a while.

Hey, just got my 720 today. Do you know of a place that has OC's and stepping?

I just replied to your question about the stepping you asked about. That's the stepping my chip has. You can expect some nice clocks from it or at least 4.0 based on my results with this one.

Yeah, had time to pop in and check up on you guys. I promise when things settle down here, I'll be in more often. Still have to update the 32M PI thread when I get time and believe I can do that this weekend - Maybe.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I kind of halfassed looked but I didn't see it say anything about RAID arrays. It just says about what type of file systems are supported. Do you know if it works with RAID?

BlackOmega, Acronis will see your OS as on logical drive I believe, so if you're restoring an image it should work. Refer to this link for more details: http://kb.acronis.com/content/1565.

Kryton, good to see you


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, Acronis will see your OS as on logical drive I believe, so if you're restoring an image it should work. Refer to this link for more details: http://kb.acronis.com/content/1565.

Kryton, good to see you









Thanks and glad to still be around.
Haven't been in at my other "Home" lately either. Guess they've issued an Amber alert for me by now....


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
I just replied to your question about the stepping you asked about. That's the stepping my chip has. You can expect some nice clocks from it or at least 4.0 based on my results with this one.

Yeah, had time to pop in and check up on you guys. I promise when things settle down here, I'll be in more often. Still have to update the 32M PI thread when I get time and believe I can do that this weekend - Maybe.

Awesome, thanks Kryton!









I'm planning on lapping the 720 once I verify that all is well









Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, Acronis will see your OS as one logical drive I believe, so if you're restoring an image it should work. Refer to this link for more details: http://kb.acronis.com/content/1565.

Thanks thlnk3r, I'll look it over once I'm ready for the switch.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Thanks Tator.









I'll have to read up on how to use it later. I've never actually copied an image so It'll be a learning experience







.

Another quick question, am I wrong in assuming that it clones all of the drivers as well?

It basically makes an image of the whole logical drive or a section of it.

So if you just want your OS part it'll make a logical partition image of that space and then you can expand and resize using Gparted which is built in.

EDIT: Post 190,000 ONEHUNDEREDANDNINETEETHOUSAND!


----------



## N2Gaming

Hi Kryton


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Awesome, thanks Kryton!









I'm planning on lapping the 720 once I verify that all is well









Thanks thlnk3r, I'll look it over once I'm ready for the switch.









Hoping it's a good one for you BO. Maybe you'll be knocking on 4.3 too.









Yo! Back at ya N2!


----------



## simfreak47

Hey guys, sorry I haven't been too active at all. Just a few posts a day. Got a job, got my license, and started playing the guitar A LOT. So I figured I'd stop by


----------



## thlnk3r

Simfreak47, good to see you


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *simfreak47* 
Hey guys, sorry I haven't been too active at all. Just a few posts a day. Got a job, got my license, and started playing the guitar A LOT. So I figured I'd stop by









Hey sim







Good to see that you're busy. You're still in school right?

Guitar is a lot of fun. Man, I haven't picked one up on a long time. I've been meaning to get an electric, preferably a Jackson or a Charvel. Those are my favs. They play so nicely









What'd you get? And possibly more importantly what kind of music are you playing?


----------



## BlackOmega

Hey fellas, you guys have any idea why my DVD-RW drive isn't allowing me to burn anything on to blanks DVD-R's? I've updated the firmware to the latest version, which supposedly supports newer media, but when I put a blank in the drive it just says that there is 0 space available. WTH?









And AFAIK, there is no official driver for it so I'm kind of stumped as to what I should do.....(short of buying another drive).


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hey fellas, you guys have any idea why my DVD-RW drive isn't allowing me to burn anything on to blanks DVD-R's? I've updated the firmware to the latest version, which supposedly supports newer media, but when I put a blank in the drive it just says that there is 0 space available.


BlackOmega, have you only tried this specific coaster of DVD's and no others? In others words have you tried a different brand of DVD's?

Good luck


----------



## mattliston

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hey fellas, you guys have any idea why my DVD-RW drive isn't allowing me to burn anything on to blanks DVD-R's? I've updated the firmware to the latest version, which supposedly supports newer media, but when I put a blank in the drive it just says that there is 0 space available. WTH?









And AFAIK, there is no official driver for it so I'm kind of stumped as to what I should do.....(short of buying another drive).


I suppose there is no way of backtracking the firmware? just to its previous version?

why was the update done anyways?

you probably have done this, but its worth asking, have you restarted since doing the update of the firmware?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, have you only tried this specific coaster of DVD's and no others? In others words have you tried a different brand of DVD's?

Good luck

The ones I was using were Maxell DVD-R. I just went and got some Memorex DVD+R's, I'll see if changes anything. But the weird thing is, I have burned several of the Maxell DVD's using this burner









OT: I went to Big Lots to get the discs, and man they've got some great deals there. And if you're into anime, man they sure do have a lot of them. I just picked Robotech: Shadow Chronicles for $3







I also picked up a copy of "Stranglehold" (game). No idea if it's any good or not, but for $6 I suppose even if it sucks I'm not out much.










Quote:


Originally Posted by *mattliston* 
I suppose there is no way of backtracking the firmware? just to its previous version?

why was the update done anyways?

you probably have done this, but its worth asking, have you restarted since doing the update of the firmware?

I did the update because the version date that was on there was 2001. I checked over at Asus's website and there were 2 newer versions (dated '06) and one of the fixes was new media recognizability. So I assumed that this was my problem.

And yeah I've restarted since, no change.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
The ones I was using were Maxell DVD-R. I just went and got some Memorex DVD+R's, I'll see if changes anything. But the weird thing is, I have burned several of the Maxell DVD's using this burner.

BlackOmega, let us know. I've had to throw out a whole coaster of Sony CD-R's so it does occur. Perhaps you had a few bad disc's in yours? Have you tried burning just regular CD-R/CDRW's?

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey BlackOmega. Is it a DVD drive or CD rom drive. you say the last firmware was from 2001. Did they even have DVD drives back then?


----------



## Blitz6804

It could be the drive does not like -R; we need to see how the +R works.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Hey BlackOmega. Is it a DVD drive or CD rom drive. you say the last firmware was from 2001. Did they even have DVD drives back then?

N2Gaming, I believe dvd rewritable drives became available for the PC in the late 90's. They were so expensive. I remember buying my first CD-ROM drive for Macintosh Performa 6200 and it was way above $100. The interface was SCSI if remember correctly


----------



## BlackOmega

Ok just figured it out. XP does not natively support DVD burning. So I need to use a program like Nero to burn DVD's of any type. So now I feel like


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 







Ok just figured it out. XP does not natively support DVD burning. So I need to use a program like Nero to burn DVD's of any type. So now I feel like









*imgburn* is free and works pretty good. Not to mention it is easy to use.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
*imgburn* is free and works pretty good. Not to mention it is easy to use.

I already d/led the Nero freeware thing they have. It works very well actually.

OT: Read a little about that stranglehold game. Turns out its based off of the movie Hard Boiled w/ Chao Yun Fat. It looks pretty cool actually.


----------



## BlackOmega

Hey fellas I was just looking over my purchase online and noticed the RAM I ordered is no longer available. But the thing that REALLY shocked me was the price $193.99. Did ZZF make a mistake on their pricing?
Here's the link.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Hey fellas I was just looking over my purchase online and noticed the RAM I ordered is no longer available. But the thing that REALLY shocked me was the price $193.99. Did ZZF make a mistake on their pricing?
Here's the link.

They are probably going off of a new set that's coming in.

Or a repricing glitched based off an older MSRP.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
They are probably going off of a new set that's coming in.

Or a repricing glitched based off an older MSRP.

Part numbers match. Quite possibly the price of the RAM when it was first released. Or maybe they just cut the price down so low to sell their remaining stock.









Good deal for me though







. I'll probably run it @ 1600 at some ridiculously tight timings.


----------



## N2Gaming

PSU prices are up as well.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Part numbers match. Quite possibly the price of the RAM when it was first released. Or maybe they just cut the price down so low to sell their remaining stock.









Good deal for me though







. I'll probably run it @ 1600 at some ridiculously tight timings.









I think they are the Micron IC's from the OCZ Reaper/Crucial Balistix line, so I"d say you can probably run 3.6ghz/DDR3 1600mhz Cas 7 no problem.

If you use your HT clock you can get them into the 1525mhz area with Cas 6 probably and 3.75ghz


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
I think they are the Micron IC's from the OCZ Reaper/Crucial Balistix line, so I"d say you can probably run 3.6ghz/DDR3 1600mhz Cas 7 no problem.

If you use your HT clock you can get them into the 1525mhz area with Cas 6 probably and 3.75ghz

I was hoping to get them down to 5-5-5-15, I mean they're rated @ 8-8-8-24 @ 1866. You'd think that, that would be attainable especially since they're only 1GB sticks.


----------



## Blitz6804

For those curious if a PCIe 1.0 16x / PCIe 2.0 8x will bottleneck the HD 5870s, see TechPowerUp's review of the same.


----------



## N2Gaming

Interesting.

So if we were able to get a 939 x2 stable at 2.8-3.0GHz w/one of those 5870 cards then it would be equivilant of running it on am2+ w/PCIe 2.0 x8 slot and a x2 cpu at 2.8-3.0GHz or something along those lines.

Edit: that MSI GD70 must have good reviews. I see it a lot lately...


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I was hoping to get them down to 5-5-5-15, I mean they're rated @ 8-8-8-24 @ 1866. You'd think that, that would be attainable especially since they're only 1GB sticks.

I have yet to see any DDR3 sticks get as low as Cas 5.

More so, early 2x1GB sets of DDR3 do not do as well at lower Cas settings as they were desinged specifically for Front Side Bus setups like the QX/X series from Intel.

Though, the lowest you're gonna get DDR3 from my experience is 1470-1540mhz Cas 6 depending on the sticks & IC's.

Older 1.75/1.8v Sticks like the 2x2GB Balistix can do that. OCZ no longer makes the Reaper HPC line that could, but they used the same IC's.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
For those curious if a PCIe 1.0 16x / PCIe 2.0 8x will bottleneck the HD 5870s, see TechPowerUp's review of the same.

I linked this earlier in the thread, and still, x8 bandwidth is only a 2-3% loss. Which is nothing.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Interesting.

So if we were able to get a 939 x2 stable at 2.8-3.0GHz w/one of those 5870 cards then it would be equivilant of running it on am2+ w/PCIe 2.0 x8 slot and a x2 cpu at 2.8-3.0GHz or something along those lines.

Edit: that MSI GD70 must have good reviews. I see it a lot lately...

Yes, and personal experience with the GD70 shows me that it's all looks. Nothing solid under the hood. M4A79T-Dlx & 790FXT-UD5P are better 790FX boards.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Yes, and personal experience with the GD70 shows me that it's all looks. Nothing solid under the hood. M4A79T-Dlx & 790FXT-UD5P are better 790FX boards.

you run a foxconn though. Is your foxconn better then those others or do you build for others and you just have the opportunity to bench all these systems?

I personally think that GD70 is so sexy and would look very sharp in my BNBB project mod.









EDIT: I forgot to mention I like the ability to fine tune the GD70's FSB w/the OC dial in 1MHz incrimints up to +10MHz or -10MHz = FTW


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
EDIT: I forgot to mention I like the ability to fine tune the GD70's FSB w/the OC dial in 1MHz incrimints up to +10MHz or -10MHz = FTW

N2Gaming, isn't this a feature on most motherboards? I mean on my current board I can increase the HT Clock Speed in 1Mhz increments as well....or are you referring to something completely different


----------



## Blitz6804

The GD70 has a physical knob on the board if I remember right. You can adjust the HTT real time for testing's sake before going into the BIOS to adjust it.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
The GD70 has a physical knob on the board if I remember right. You can adjust the HTT real time for testing's sake before going into the BIOS to adjust it.

^ This.

Sorry I forgot to mention the OC dial is a little knob on the mobo that allows you to fine turn your FSB up or down from with in windows in real time for fine tuning. So if your at or close to your max fsb oc and you can post at say 285 FSB but you want to see how much furnther you can get the FSB w/out crashing etc or your OCCT can't handle 285 then you turn it down a bit till it don't crash OCCT. Now if you do crash from a small bump say 3-5HMz FSB bump then you don't have to clear cmos or even go back into bios. A simple reboot will put you right back at 285


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
you run a foxconn though. Is your foxconn better then those others or do you build for others and you just have the opportunity to bench all these systems?

I personally think that GD70 is so sexy and would look very sharp in my BNBB project mod.









EDIT: I forgot to mention I like the ability to fine tune the GD70's FSB w/the OC dial in 1MHz incrimints up to +10MHz or -10MHz = FTW

I spend and waste alot of money on testing things. And I used to be a reviewer for a (now dead) site. And I'm currently launching a new one.

And my Foxconn is not quiet as amazing as the GD70 in options. But that's just because of the GD70 having more profiles (I have two it as 4 IIRC) and it's physical power circuitry is a bit better. (6phase vs 8phase)

Though, as far as overclocking chips go, my board holds up just fine. And works just about the same as the GD70.
The GD70 did better on the 965BE, but that's before I got the newer P09 Beta BIOS which is supposed to improve that, and obviously have not been able to cross test.

But I do build for others, but I have owned and tested all the 790FX boards for AM3.

My ranking goes
Gigabyte
Asus (M4A, haven't tested Crosshair III)
DFI (beware of Customer Support)
MSI
Jetway (if you can find it for $100 it is pretty nice though for folding)

I can say that you probably won't be let down by the GD70, but if you don't really need that 4xPCIe x16 layout..then the Gigabyte is so much more of a solid platform.

The Asus M4A79T-Dlx is catching up, as it started off with some kinda shoddy BIOS, but they've been working on it.

GD70 just has so many mediocre parts to it's overclocking when stacked against other boards.
As in, it was much harder to take a 945BE (940BE ES chip) to 4.0ghz on the GD70 than it was my 790FXT-UD5P.
More so when you try HT Overclock.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hmm one of the reviews I was reading last night said the GD70 was lacking in the CPU Phase power circuitry but was stable none the less. The review said the GD70 only had 5 phase. I'll see if I can dig up that review again and quote it...


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hmm one of the reviews I was reading last night said the GD70 was lacking in the CPU Phase power circuitry but was stable none the less. The review said the GD70 only had 5 phase. I'll see if I can dig up that review again and quote it...










It's a 5 physical + 3 Virtual.

Has something to deal with that Dr.Mos stuff.

One reviewer really explains it. I'll PM it to you if I find it.


----------



## N2Gaming

Well I just found the review I spoke of earlier. Here is the review and below is the reviews final thought to rap it up...









Quote:



If you are after the highest-end chipset from AMD for gaming and overclocking, you need to look no further than the AM3 790FX. It promises the best performance, most overclocking headroom and full CrossFireX support, putting it well above other AMD chipsets if you are looking to build a top-end gaming rig. Unfortunately there aren't exactly a plethora of retail options available at the moment. At the time of this writing, we only counted four available AM3 790FX boards and half of them didn't implement the FX's full set of features, missing things like four PCI-E x16 slots for quad-CrossFireX support. One of the two available AM3 790FX boards implementing the full FX feature set is the ASUS M4A79T Deluxe, the other is the MSI 790FX-GD70. Judging from our initial impressions from this evaluation, the 790FX-GD70 looks extremely promising.

The 790FX-GD70 not only performed just as well, if not slightly better than the M4A79T out of the box, but our overclocking trial suggests it's very overclockable as well. The MSI board also comes at a slightly lower price than the ASUS board, as the 790FX-GD70 is currently offered for around $175, about $15 less than the M4A79T Deluxe. Despite the lower price, the 790FX-GD70 misses nothing in terms of features. It comes with all the juicy extras you expect from a high-end board, like automatic phase switching, all solid capacitors, shielded chokes, competitive power saving features and full CrossFireX support with four physical PCI-E x16 slots, not to mention a decent bundle of accessories. The only area where the 790FX-GD70 doesn't quite stack up to the competition is in the number of power phases available to the processor. 
*While it is standard these days for most enthusiast motherboards to feature 8-phase power designs, with some sporting as many as 16, the 790FX-GD70 only gets 5. Ultimately though, the number of power phases available doesn't have a particularly notable effect on performance so it's not of crucial importance in the big picture and pales to insignificance next to the GD70's many strengths.* 
Overall MSI has created a very competitive board with the 790FX-GD70. It features an excellent layout, well designed functional cooling system, CrossFireX support with four PCI-E x16 slots, excellent overclocking ability and useful features like the innovative OC Dial. While many users may be better served by cheaper 790GX based solutions like MSI's DKA790GX, those of you looking for a high-end enthusiast board to pair up with your brand new AM3 Phenom II processor should definitely consider the MSI 790FX-GD70.


----------



## Tator Tot

Messed up your quote tag a bit N2.

Either way, the power phase design is again that has a +3 Virtual phase on it. It's part of the reason why the board is cheaper.

I'm not sure how much it really effects the whole design, but if it was only 5 Phase it wouldn't be able to deliver enough power for a 140watt CPU.


----------



## N2Gaming

Trying to fix the quote atm.









edit: Ok fixed quote tab and yeah I was like what only 5. My old as dirt M2N32 SLI Deluxe mobo's are AM2 and they have 8+2 Phase just like it's brother mobo A8N32 SLI Deluxe.


----------



## BlackOmega

Well finally got it put together. Now that I'm not getting interupted every 20 seconds








Here's the link

Also, just for kicks and giggles I put on the stock cooler.








it actually does ...somewhat OK. lol.

As for the OC dial, you can actually set it to what the increments are, at least that is what I gathered from the manual.

Setting the GD70 up was a beeze, I like the layout for the most part with the exeption of the FDD port. Although, most people wont even use it. I only have to, to set up RAID in XP.

SO far so good. As for the GD70 itself, I have read some mixed reviews. Some say it was just as good as the DFI, others have put it right up there with the UD5P.

Overall, the board looks very good. The BIOS has lots of features, I haven't even begun to delve into the overclocking options, and there does seem to be quite a bit. Also, the manual was pretty good. Definitely better than what I'm used to. It actually explains stuff







(well some of it anyway). However, it didn't really cover RAID. The downloadable one does in fact go deeper in to RAID and whatnot.

The only thing that peeved me about the board, which I would have liked to know before I bought it was that when running CFX with 2 cards, you have to use the 1st and 3rd slots. I would've much rather have been able to use the first 2.

Tator, if you find that more in depth review send it to me too.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well finally got it put together. Now that I'm not getting interupted every 20 seconds








Here's the link

Also, just for kicks and giggles I put on the stock cooler.







it actually does ...somewhat OK. lol.

As for the OC dial, you can actually set it to what the increments are, at last that is what I gathered from the manual.

Setting the GD70 up was a beeze, I like the layout for the most part with the exeption of the FDD port. Although, most people wont even use it. I only have to, to set up RAID in XP.

SO far so good. As for the GD70 itself, I have read some mixed reviews. Some say it was just as good as the DFI, others have put it right up there with the UD5P.

Overall, the board looks very good. The BIOS has lots of features, I haven't even begun to delve into the overclocking options, and there does seem to be quite a bit. Also, the manual was pretty good. Definitely better than what I'm used to. It actually explains stuff







(well some of it anyway). However, it didn't really cover RAID. The downloadable one does in fact go deeper in to RAID and whatnot.

The only thing that peeved me about the board, which I would have liked to know before I bought it was that when running CFX with 2 cards, you have to sue the 1st and 3rd slots. I would've much rather have been able to use the first 2.

Tator, if you find that more in depth review send it to me too.










There's like 300 reviews of that board lol









But yeah, the options an manual are good.

Like I said, if you get it, you won't be dissapointed as it's a very solid board. But when you start working back to back with the same setup just changing boards out the Gigabyte really shows it self to be a god among boards.

The MSI has 1 strait lead on the rest of the boards though, Looks & Layout. They only could have been better with a Grey/Black layout. 
Not saying that their blue is bad. But I'm just not a blue fan.

I've always like White/Orange/Red/Green.


----------



## N2Gaming

Whaaa?














Tator Tot















Blue is my favorite color.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Whaaa?














Tator Tot














Blue is my favorite color.










I like warm colors, not cool colors.

Warm = Red/Orange/Yellow
Cool = Blue/Purple/Green.

Though, it has a bit more discrepancy from that if you really get technical for that.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


There's like 300 reviews of that board lol









But yeah, the options an manual are good.

Like I said, if you get it, you won't be dissapointed as it's a very solid board. But when you start working back to back with the same setup just changing boards out the Gigabyte really shows it self to be a god among boards.

The MSI has 1 strait lead on the rest of the boards though, Looks & Layout. They only could have been better with a Grey/Black layout. 
Not saying that their blue is bad. But I'm just not a blue fan.

I've always like White/Orange/Red/Green.


 Well the board's already in and running







I just have to figure which cooler I'm going to use. Either my lapped BT or my DK, but it looks as though with either of them I'm going to need to devise some sort of mounting as the ram sinks are fairly tall.

Also, what's a good temp monitoring software for the PHII's? I have coretemp but I'm not sure if it works properly with the 45nm chips.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well the board's already in and running







I just have to figure which cooler I'm going to use. Either my lapped BT or my DK, but it looks as though with either of them I'm going to need to devise some sort of mounting as the ram sinks are fairly tall.

Also, what's a good temp monitoring software for the PHII's? I have coretemp but I'm not sure if it works properly with the 45nm chips.


The Latest CoreTemp 32bit/64bit work wonders for me & PhII's. Unlocked chips can get busted temp sensors while unlocked, but it's like that with all programs.

As for a cooler, if you have the money, i would suggest picking up a Noctua U12P-SE2 or sticking with your DK, but grabbing an AM# bracket from Nafjy


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
The Latest CoreTemp 32bit/64bit work wonders for me & PhII's. Unlocked chips can get busted temp sensors while unlocked, but it's like that with all programs.

As for a cooler, if you have the money, i would suggest picking up a Noctua U12P-SE2 or sticking with your DK, but grabbing an AM3 bracket from Nafjy

Well amazingly enough my BT actually does just as well as the DK, and actually a little better on a lapped CPU.









And I've already grabbed the newest version of coretemp 32bit and the stock cooler works very well at idle







25*C


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Well amazingly enough my BT actually does just as well as the DK, and actually a little better on a lapped CPU.









And I've already grabbed the newest version of coretemp 32bit and the stock cooler works very well at idle







25*C









Not bad man.

The Big Typhoon is a good cooler (I keep mine around for Socket A/478 fun) but it does loose out in load temps normally. Or when you can mount a Xig to blow out the back of a case.

Some cases with bottom mounted PSU's and top fans it doesn't matter as much (1*C difference)

But other cases (IE blowing into a PSU, or some of the BTX case setups from Lian-Li) it cause cause it to not get as good airflow.


----------



## Blitz6804

Tator: I, like N2Gaming, prefer cool colors over warm colors. For the record, green is a neutral color: neither warm nor cool.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Tator: I, like N2Gaming, prefer cool colors over warm colors. For the record, green is a neutral color: neither warm nor cool.

It depends on what you are referring too.
In paints, green is a neutral. In lighting it's a cool color.
Color has to many basis which makes it a bit different depending on the subject matter.

To me, green is neutral as it is a combo of a cool & warm color. Though, I also feel as a nice and balanced Violet is a neutral as well.

The whole warm/cool/neutral thing is really up to personal perception though. In all of my art classes that's pretty much what they taught and it feels the best to put it that way as well.
But if you go by definition (obviously again depending on the color source) all colors have a specific designation.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Not bad man.

The Big Typhoon is a good cooler (I keep mine around for Socket A/478 fun) but it does loose out in load temps normally. Or when you can mount a Xig to blow out the back of a case.

Some cases with bottom mounted PSU's and top fans it doesn't matter as much (1*C difference)

But other cases (IE blowing into a PSU, or some of the BTX case setups from Lian-Li) it cause cause it to not get as good airflow.

I lapped the BT as soon as I got it, the base was concave. That's the only reason it does better than the DK on a lapped CPU. They're about equal on non lapped cpu's.

And yeah my CM has the PSU at the bottom so that doesn't pose an issue either. I think I can get both coolers to work I just have to be able to rotate them 90* to clear the RAM.

I'll probably just make some brackets out of some plate steel (1/8") and bolt it down. I might just find a use for all those silly lga775 brackets I have.


----------



## Tator Tot

Your best option would be to do something like this

It's simple, cost effective, and works well.

I got one done for myself out of steel, it's total cost was around $8 as we did the cutting after school in the shop.


----------



## Blitz6804

Good news Thlnk3r: I found my lapping kit.

Now the question: Which is better, lap the Noctua NH-C12P or risk lapping the Phenom II x4 940?


----------



## HothBase

Hey, Tator. Do you have any experience with the Gigabyte GA-MA770T-UD3P?
Or do you have any specific AM3 boards to recommend in the $120 range? Thanks


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Good news Thlnk3r: I found my lapping kit.

Now the question: Which is better, lap the Noctua NH-C12P or risk lapping the Phenom II x4 940?

If your Noctua came as flat as my U12P-SE2 did then I would say the CPU (as I've noticed CPU's never come flat)

But there really isnt' a risk of damaging the CPU, a lot less than de-lidding.
Just keep that foam piece from your CPU case/bubble on so you don't mess up the pins at all.

And Lapping a cooler is no problem at all, as long as it's not an Heatpipe Direct Touch type, then you could run into an issue, but usually you just need to start lapping at a higher grit, and do less of it. As they normally come very flat to start with.


----------



## N2Gaming

The bracket looks pretty good Tator


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
Hey, Tator. Do you have any experience with the Gigabyte GA-MA770T-UD3P?
Or do you have any specific AM3 boards to recommend in the $120 range? Thanks









From what I can tell, the Gigabyte 770/790GX/790X/790FX AM3 boards are all cut from the same hunk of gold.
Each just a step down from the top of the line, either by features or options. But from my experience, the AM2+ version of the Gigabyte 770 was a very nice budget overclocking board.

If you have the money, I would look at the Gigabyte 790GPT or 790XT as their BIOS have more options, they include the better SB's, and generally have a better ability at overclocking.

The 770T board is nice, but it's a budget overclocker, and IIRC, it lacks a CPU-NB voltage option, so if you were overclocking with your HT bus, you wouldn't be able to pull off high RAM clocks on it. While it is an budget board, in the sub $100, it's an excellent choice.

The Gigabyte 790GPT is a great board, and has a few extra options missing that are included in the 790XT & 790FXT.

And Honestly, on a budget, the 790XT is the best choice, as it has the best BIOS out of all the boards, contains almost all the options of the 790FXT, has the same overclocking ability from experience, and is a good representation of the chipset. (IE 790X = 790FX Lite) And the board has barely any deductions from it's older brother besides some of it's expansion options. And I don't remember if it lets you set the PCIe Wattage like the Gigabyte 790FXT does.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
The bracket looks pretty good Tator

It is, very basic design, but it works well. If you get some spring screws then you are set. Or if you got the DK, you just need to drill the holes to fit those spring screws.


----------



## HothBase

I've been hearing so much good about Gigabyte lately when it comes to AM3. I'm sure I'm gonna end up picking one of the motherboards you just mentioned, Tator. Thanks for the recommendations, I'm bookmarking that post, +rep.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
I've been hearing so much good about Gigabyte lately when it comes to AM3. I'm sure I'm gonna end up picking one of the motherboards you just mentioned, Tator. Thanks for the recommendations, I'm bookmarking that post, +rep.









No problem man.

It seems to me that Gigabyte is the only company really taking AM3/AMD Users seriously right now.

Everyone else is kinda half hearted about it.

Asus's boards have some excellent quality to them, but then fall short is some regards. IE M4A79T-Deluxe having only 5 SATA ports wut?

DFI's just been DFI...they're on the fence with quality, and customer support is like talking to a brick

Foxconn has yet to drop it's Quantum Force boards, and they are probably waiting till the new chipsets. And while their Digital Life boards (A79A-S & A79D-S/3.0) offer great overclocking very cheap, they lack some special BIOS features that make life easier. (Multiple Profiles)

Jetway is Jetway..I can't really say much. 2 Profiles on all their boards, a good amount of options. But very "ok" build quality.

ECS Is really putting the pedal to the metal, but they have some catching up to do in the high end chipset market (IE 790X/GX/FX's) but their budget 780G/785G's are excellent.

MSI really improved the build quality, but they are still lagging behind the others as an enthusiast grade product. I'd honestly hope they keep pushing forward. But like DFI they need to improve customer support/service.

Biostar had a nice little budget of a 790GX board...but they've made 90 version of it, gimped an ungimped the BIOS. I'm just not sure what they are really doing.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Your best option would be to do something like this

It's simple, cost effective, and works well.

I got one done for myself out of steel, it's total cost was around $8 as we did the cutting after school in the shop.

That's a pretty good solution. Makes me wish I had access to a mill. Although a plasma cutter would do just fine.

However, I think I'm just going to mount the BT on it as the BT already has 4 drilled/tapped holes in it that would make attaching a bracket just as easy as the DK but I think it would more evenly distribute the load on the CPU. That and I wouldn't have to dismantle one of my folding rigs as that's where the DK lives now. I will probably take the fan off of it and put it on the BT.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Good news Thlnk3r: I found my lapping kit.

Now the question: Which is better, lap the Noctua NH-C12P or risk lapping the Phenom II x4 940?

You'll get a much better result if you lap your 940 as opposed to lapping the Noctua.


----------



## Blitz6804

Lapping the Noctua though is familiar ground; I have lapped a cooler before. Lapping the CPU for me is a brave new (and scary-looking) world.


----------



## Kryton

Just to chime in, I only have my experience with my MSI to go by but for the $$'s spent vs what I got and what it's done, I'm happy except that the AMD chipset really restricts useage of features that Nvidia has with their cards.

Of course this was done to make you buy an ATI card and nothing wrong with those but to completely neuter any tuning of Nvidia cards isn't a good thing in my book, esp if you only have enough $$'s to get a basic system going but not enough to buy an ATI or two.

That's why I'm using my Nvidia cards since this one was built on a tight budget and has to reuse these from my other builds.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Just to chime in, I only have my experience with my MSI to go by but for the $$'s spent vs what I got and what it's done, I'm happy except that the AMD chipset really restricts useage of features that Nvidia has with their cards.

Of course this was done to make you buy an ATI card and nothing wrong with those but to completely neuter any tuning of Nvidia cards isn't a good thing in my book, esp if you only have enough $$'s to get a basic system going but not enough to buy an ATI or two.

That's why I'm using my Nvidia cards since this one was built on a tight budget and has to reuse these from my other builds.

What do you mean by this Kryton?

What features?


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
What do you mean by this Kryton?

What features?

Anything that allows tweaking the card for performance.

You can still adjust resolution and the like but anything affecting performance /OC'ing simply doesn't work. I've even tried a few proggys that will normally do this but they won't work with the board. SLI is also non-functional as well.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Anything that allows tweaking the card for performance.

You can still adjust resolution and the like but anything affecting performance /OC'ing simply doesn't work. I've even tried a few proggys that will normally do this but they won't work with the board. SLI is also non-functional as well.

AMD Chipsets can't get an SLi license. nVidia won't let them have it.

And I've never had a problem to overclock nVidia cards on AMD boards or changing anything.

Though, you could try the russian hack to get SLi to work on AMD chipsets


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Lapping the Noctua though is familiar ground; I have lapped a cooler before. *Lapping the CPU for me is a brave new (and scary-looking) world*.

I hear ya, but just remember it's all in your head.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
AMD Chipsets can't get an SLi license. nVidia won't let them have it.

And I've never had a problem to overclock nVidia cards on AMD boards or changing anything.

Though, you could try the russian hack to get SLi to work on AMD chipsets

I was meaning on trying that hack on my CFX3200 but it seems as though I've gotten too wrapped up with the new board and all.
I've never tried OCing a 7xxx series card so I don't know about them really. I'm assuming programs like precision don't work with the 7 series like with the 6 series. I think rivatuner lets you do that though. I recall my 6800's actually doing worse with the more overclocking they received, so I never really messed with them too much.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I was meaning on trying that hack on my CFX3200 but it seems as though I've gotten too wrapped up with the new board and all.
I've never tried OCing a 7xxx series card so I don't know about them really. I'm assuming programs like precision don't work with the 7 series like with the 6 series. I think rivatuner lets you do that though. I recall my 6800's actually doing worse with the more overclocking they received, so I never really messed with them too much.


Works on my Foxconn.

And yeah, Precision is 8 Series and up.

RivaTuner or nVidia drivers work just fine.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
And Honestly, on a budget, the 790XT is the best choice, as it has the best BIOS out of all the boards, contains almost all the options of the 790FXT, has the same overclocking ability from experience, and is a good representation of the chipset. (IE 790X = 790FX Lite) And the board has barely any deductions from it's older brother besides some of it's expansion options. And I don't remember if it lets you set the PCIe Wattage like the Gigabyte 790FXT does.

Tator, speaking of the MA790XT-UD4P...I was at Fry's today with Joe looking for a one. Seriously not a single one of them were unopened/brand new. All of the 790XT's were opened box blehh. I guess that gives me more incentive to wait and see if prices go down









Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Lapping the CPU for me is a brave new (and scary-looking) world.

Blitz6804, don't worry about the negatives. Just think of the cooling advantages you'll gain from this. You can do it man! Just take your time and don't rush it.

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Hey you guys have any idea as to what might cause an achix86.sys error (512) when trying to install RAID drivers in WinXp setup?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hey you guys have any idea as to what might cause an achix86.sys error (512) when trying to install RAID drivers in WinXp setup?


BlackOmega, have you tried a different version of the Raid driver? Try copying them to a different floppy disk. I've ran into this a few times and ended up being a bad floppy disk. Hey I found your other post on the MSI Forum









Let us know

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, have you tried a different version of the Raid driver? Try copying them to a different floppy disk. I've ran into this a few times and ended up being a bad floppy disk. Hey I found your other post on the MSI Forum









Let us know

Good luck

AFAIK, thats the only available version. I think I'm going to have to run over to my folks place and run off a few copies.
And just to be sure, when I extract the file am I supposed to leave it in the folder, or only set the root files in the x86 folder to be the only files on the diskette?

Another thing, is there a way to get in to DOS and format my HDD's ?(in case that has something to do with it)

Yeah, I tried over there first, it was late and there was no one around here. You like my username over there?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


You like my username over there?










BLB







I like it. You really notice a 50% boost over non raided drives? That is impressive. So if your using Raptor or Velociraptors then you raid spd would be stupendouse


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


BLB







I like it. You really notice a 50% boost over non raided drives? That is impressive. So if your using Raptor or Velociraptors then you raid spd would be stupendouse










 Lol I got Leo a Buzz Lightyear action figure and thats the way he says his name







. Every time I hear him say it I'm like







"Who taught you that?" Then I realize he's saying Buzz Lightyear, not light beer.
















But yeah there is a pretty dramatic speed increase from a single disk to RAID. IIRC, Joe raided some raptors and his speed was ridiculous, his burst speed was in the thousands (IIRC) and his average was at least double of what my RAID array was able to do.


----------



## N2Gaming

I've never set up raid for fear of loosing all my info. Is it best to set up raid w/3 HDD's two for raid and one for storage of things like games etc etc or would the third non raided drive defeat the purpost? For example I have 2x 36G Raptors and 2x 74G Raptors. I could use 2 of same kind Raptors for the Raid and a regular WD 500 G Sata 16GB cache for my storage. If I put my OS on the two raided drives Would the storage drive slow down the system if I had my game files etc etc on it?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I've never set up raid for fear of loosing all my info. Is it best to set up raid w/3 HDD's two for raid and one for storage of things like games etc etc or would the third non raided drive defeat the purpost? For example I have 2x 36G Raptors and 2x 74G Raptors. I could use 2 of same kind Raptors for the Raid and a regular WD 500 G Sata 16GB cache for my storage. If I put my OS on the two raided drives Would the storage drive slow down the system if I had my game files etc etc on it?

The best option if you are worried about Data loss is to do a RAID 10 array (or Matrix if you have an Intel board) on a dedicated RAID controller.

As that gives you the option of running 2 Raid 1 arrays and then stripping them. Or running a RAID 0 array and then mirroring it.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
The best option if you are worried about Data loss is to do a RAID 10 array (or Matrix if you have an Intel board) on a dedicated RAID controller.

As that gives you the option of running 2 Raid 1 arrays and then stripping them. Or running a RAID 0 array and then mirroring it.


Thnx Tator, the question is about using 3 HDD's. With that in mind can I mirror two smaller raided drives onto one larger then both combined raided drives?

Edit: but this new solution if possible kind of defeats the purpose as well. Unless I partitioned the larger drive to boot from the mirror, (in the event of a dead raided drive ) while using the remaing space as Storage?


----------



## an1m3n00b

o.o I'm still using my S939 rig...


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Thnx Tator, the question is about using 3 HDD's. With that in mind can I mirror two smaller raided drives onto one larger then both combined raided drives?

Edit: but this new solution if possible kind of defeats the purpose as well. Unless I partitioned the larger drive to boot from the mirror, (in the event of a dead raided drive ) while using the remaing space as Storage?

In a RAID 5 array you could use 3 Drives, but you would need them to be all the same size.

And Essentially you take your whole amount (IE 3x500GB=750GB as 750GB is backed up, but the drivers are in a partial mirror)

And that way if one drive goes down, you can still run your Array as you still have two drives with all the data. And then you add in a new drive and rebuild the array.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
And just to be sure, when I extract the file am I supposed to leave it in the folder, or only set the root files in the x86 folder to be the only files on the diskette?

Another thing, is there a way to get in to DOS and format my HDD's ?(in case that has something to do with it)

BlackOmega, I typically just save the raid drivers straight to the disk and not in any folder ect.

In regards to formatting the drives, you could use Tator's suggested method with DBan. That will definitely clear off the drives for sure. You could always plug the drives in another machine and go to "disk management" and do a full format that way. Do you have a LiveCD? Some users create LiveCD's with tools that are used for this type of request. Are these Western Digital drives? You could always use their Data Life Guard tools to format the drives as well. There is all kinds of ways.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Thnx Tator, the question is about using 3 HDD's. With that in mind can I mirror two smaller raided drives onto one larger then both combined raided drives?

N2Gaming, that sounds like a trick question almost but I'm pretty sure that wouldn't be possible. Perhaps Tator can elaborate more on this. Once you raid two drives they can't be touched again. Are you wanting data from your two drive array to be copied over to your second array because you can always setup some type of backup job (ie. symantec backup exec) or if you want the data to be replicated in real-time then there is also software out there that will do it (Replistor being one of them). To be honest if you're scared of loosing data then just perform a weekly backup onto another drive. The performance benefits of Raid 0 are ridiculous especially with a couple of 10K drives. The drive I/O is very rewarding. In my opinion the slowest part in a computer is the hard drive. If you want a upgrade get a couple of 10k drives and throw them in Raid 0









Good luck

EDIT: N2, looks like Tator elaborated. Maybe I didn't understand your first question...so I apologize.


----------



## OSDCrusher

Quote:


Originally Posted by *an1m3n00b* 
o.o I'm still using my S939 rig...

Nothing wrong with that. I still have two socket 939 rigs, both opterons. I'm on 1 of them right now.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
In a RAID 5 array you could use 3 Drives, but you would need them to be all the same size.

And Essentially you take your whole amount (IE 3x500GB=750GB as 750GB is backed up, but the drivers are in a partial mirror)

And that way if one drive goes down, you can still run your Array as you still have two drives with all the data. And then you add in a new drive and rebuild the array.

This sound like the cheapest sense of data loss protection.

I gather the following from looking at what your figures read above.

3x500GB drives = 1.5TB
All 3 drives only use 1/2 of the drive for data giving the total storage capacity = 750MB
The remaining half of each drives space is then used for Parity or something like that = 750MB
If one drive fails the other two drives have the 3rd dead drives info in the parity stripes???
Sorry for all the questions but this is why I have never set up a raid. My understanding of it is very limited to nill...

Thanks guys.


----------



## Tator Tot

Yeah you nailed it N2.

Basically the idea of a RAID 5 array is the ability (unlike RAID 10) that if one drive goes down the RAID does not go down, you only need to hot swap the drive, because you can rebuild the array from within windows on most dedicated controllers.


----------



## thlnk3r

N2Gaming, one thing to note though if that third drive does die then you'll be running in degraded mode until it's replaced. There is a noticeable decrease in performance on just two drives but it's hardly a huge deal if you have spare on hand.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, one thing to note though if that third drive does die then you'll be running in degraded mode until it's replaced. There is a noticeable decrease in performance on just two drives but it's hardly a huge deal if you have spare on hand.

From my testing, the boot times don't really suffer. Neither do load times.

I did this with 3 x WD 320GB AAKS drives.

Benching it was faster, but as long as you were not doing anything that had alot of sequential work you were fine as your burst speeds still were high.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Benching it was faster, but as long as you were not doing anything that had alot of sequential work you were fine as your burst speeds still were high.

Tator, exactly. I'm referencing constant reads and writes. I did notice difference on some of our PE servers at work with the four drive arrays in Raid 5. Well mainly complaints from the DB engineers


----------



## Blitz6804

Tator, I believe you are incorrect with RAID 5 storage space. It is RAID 0 with a distributed parity. Thus, for 3x 500 GB, 2 drives have data and one has parity, thereby giving you 1000 GB of data, 500 GB of parity.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Tator, I believe you are incorrect with RAID 5 storage space. It is RAID 0 with a distributed parity. Thus, for 3x 500 GB, 2 drives have data and one has parity, thereby giving you 1000 GB of data, 500 GB of parity.


Er..yeah. You are right.

Thanks for the Catch Blitz.


----------



## Blitz6804

Now, here is my million dollar question: which is better for four drives? RAID 10 (or 0+1; in a four-drive configuration they are essentially interchangeable) or RAID 6. All three will have four drives. All of which would have 50% data capacity. (RAID 6 is two distributive parities; RAID 10 and RAID 0+1 both have 50% data, 50% mirror.)


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz, Raid 6 uses less storage with multiple disks and also has slower write speeds. In all performance areas Raid 10 is just much more beneficial than Raid 6. Both have their own pros and cons but I just prefer Raid 10.


----------



## N2Gaming

Now is it correct to say that most mobo's built in SATA controllers capable of raid are not capable of raid 10? I have seen them say raid 0,1,5 & 0+1. I don't remember seing any 10 or 1+0

I guess more research is in order on my part. One things for sure, I'm not about to buy a dedicated controller just to run a raid configuration. To much clutter in the system w/all the wires coming off a dedicated card to the HDD's.







Oh yeah and theres also the added expense of the controller card and if the card dies then I would be PO'd


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Now is it correct to say that most mobo's built in SATA controllers capable of raid are not capable of raid 10? I have seen them say raid 0,1,5 & 0+1. I don't remember 10 or 1+0

I guess more research is in order on my part. I'm not about to buy a dedicated controller just to run a raid configuration. To much clutter in the system w/all the wires coming off a dedicated card to the HDD's.










Well RAID 10 is 0+1 or 1+0 and most boards can do that level of RAID.

Many lower end boards cannot do RAID 5 though. (SB710/NV730/SB700)

Either way, running RAID 10 or 5 requires a dedicated controller if you do no want your CPU being bent over like a little girly CPU.

@ Blitz, I agree with Think3r, the Pro's to Con's of RAID 10 makes it more versatile and worth while apposed to RAID 6.


----------



## [email protected]

Hi fellow S939ers,

Even though I'll be moving away from S939 this month, it has served me well for the past four years so I'd love to become part of this club.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *an1m3n00b*


o.o I'm still using my S939 rig...












Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]*


Hi fellow S939ers,

Even though I'll be moving away from S939 this month, it has served me well for the past four years so I'd love to become part of this club.












Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Well RAID 10 is 0+1 or 1+0 and most boards can do that level of RAID.

Many lower end boards cannot do RAID 5 though. (SB710/NV730/SB700)

Either way, running RAID 10 or 5 requires a dedicated controller if you do no want your CPU being bent over like a little girly CPU.

@ Blitz, I agree with Think3r, the Pro's to Con's of RAID 10 makes it more versatile and worth while apposed to RAID 6.


All of my mobo's support 0,1,0+1 & 5. The trick is getting it to work on my DFI NF4 SLI DR & Expert Silicon image 3114 controller. Not that I would want to this late in the game as my other systems are slightly faster and my sig rig is using my x4 940 so would the cpu even notice the raid 5 or 0+1 strain under load?


----------



## Tator Tot

@N2

RAID 10/0+1/5 would bring your CPU to it's knee's in a HDD intensive situation. You would immediately see a jump on all cores to 25% most likely.

x86 CPU's just don't handle RAID functions well. And it would need to use your RAM, which could cause problems if your RAM is not ECC.

This is why dedicated RAID controllers have their own CPU's and ECC RAM.


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks Tator,

So your basically saying that I don't need a high priced mobo w/tons of SATA ports If I plan on running a fast Raid set up and that I should save my money on my next build to run a dedicated Raid controller card.

Who makes the best bargain controller cards?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Thanks Tator,

So your basically saying that I don't need a high priced mobo w/tons of SATA ports If I plan on running a fast Raid set up and that I should save my money on my next build to run a dedicated Raid controller card.

Who makes the best bargain controller cards?

Well if you are doing a RAID 0 array, then onboard is fine. Even a RAID 1 doesn't really suffer from Onboard RAID controllers.

As for the best budget dedicated cards

Dell PERC 5/i or Dell PERC 6/i

A member here (Burrito4) sells them constantly.

And as for reference, here's the PERC 5/i vs SB750


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Thanks Tator,

So your basically saying that I don't need a high priced mobo w/tons of SATA ports If I plan on running a fast Raid set up and that I should save my money on my next build to run a dedicated Raid controller card.

Who makes the best bargain controller cards?

N2, getting a bargain RAID controller is no different than using onboard. Good RAID controllers can cost a lot money.

And as Tator said, there really isn't very much to gain from using a separate controller as opposed to onboard when running a RAID 0 array. When everything is all said and done, the CPU usage even while benching it is less than 3%. And the speed boost is definitely worth it.

If I were you, I'd RAID 0 you 2 36GB raptors then use another slower drive for storage. Basically any sensitive files that you'd want backed up would be on the storage drive so even if your array were to fail you wouldn't lose any data. And the speed increase you'd get over a single drive is well worth it IMO.

As for when you're setting up your array on your DFI, be sure that silicon image controller runs @ 3.0 not 1.5. On my CFX3200 the Silicon image ones run @ 1.5 GB/s.

Welcome all of you new members. Post a link to a CPUz validation and you'll be added to the roster.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]* 
Hi fellow S939ers,

Even though I'll be moving away from S939 this month, it has served me well for the past four years so I'd love to become part of this club.

[email protected], welcome to the club









I've added your entry into the roster. Let us know if you have any questions.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Well if you are doing a RAID 0 array, then onboard is fine. Even a RAID 1 doesn't really suffer from Onboard RAID controllers.

As for the best budget dedicated cards

Dell PERC 5/i or Dell PERC 6/i

A member here (Burrito4) sells them constantly.

And as for reference, here's the PERC 5/i vs SB750

Tator, I don't that link helped. From what I gathered, the AMD SB750 did _better_ than the perc.









But if you think the SB750 does poorly, do you think I should use the Jmicron controller?

At any rate, I got my AM3 rig working (not RAIDed yet) on the Jmicron sata ports. And just for kicks and giggles I ran HDtach, tell me what you guys think (remember this is just a single drive).


----------



## Tator Tot

@BlackOmega,

If you actually look through the thread you'll see what it shows off about the configuration options and how they can drastically affect performance.

Also, the SB750 is much better than that Jmicron Controller for RAID purposes.

I might have my SB750 vs PERC 6/i & 5/i scores sitting around still. I'll have to check.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
As for when you're setting up your array on your DFI, be sure that silicon image controller runs @ 3.0 not 1.5. On my CFX3200 the Silicon image ones run @ 1.5 GB/s.

My silicon image controller is the same as yours. 1.5 but the Nvidia controller is 3.0 w/o raid 5 support.

I may try your suggestion about raiding 2x 36G Raptors w/an extra drive for storage of games and so on.Can I put the My documents folder on my Storage drive as well as the outlook express files so if I do loose a raided drive I don't loose my email and pictures/music etc that is normally stored on drive C: under my documents.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I may try your suggestion about raiding 2x 36G Raptors w/an extra drive for storage of games and so on.Can I put the My documents folder on my Storage drive as well as the outlook express files so if I do loose a raided drive I don't loose my email and pictures/music etc that is normally stored on drive C: under my documents.

N2Gaming, I don't see why you wouldn't be able too. I say go for it. I have a feeling you'll be very surprised after putting two 10K Raptors in Raid 0. By the way if you check out my post about a page back I suggested backing up your files to a separate drive. There's absolutely nothing wrong with that. If you keep your rig on 24/7 then you want to think about scheduling a nightly backup









Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
@BlackOmega,

If you actually look through the thread you'll see what it shows off about the configuration options and how they can drastically affect performance.

Also, the SB750 is much better than that Jmicron Controller for RAID purposes.

I might have my SB750 vs PERC 6/i & 5/i scores sitting around still. I'll have to check.

I actually read through the whole thing and it didn't seem like anything helped. Well maybe enabling and disabling certain features but it didn't seem to make that much of a difference. It still didn't beat out the SB750.

What makes the SB750 better than the jmicron one? I'm not doubting you, I'd just like to know for curiosities sake. Hell I might just install on both









Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
My silicon image controller is the same as yours. 1.5 but the Nvidia controller is 3.0 w/o raid 5 support.

I may try your suggestion about raiding 2x 36G Raptors w/an extra drive for storage of games and so on.Can I put the My documents folder on my Storage drive as well as the outlook express files so if I do loose a raided drive I don't loose my email and pictures/music etc that is normally stored on drive C: under my documents.

I wasn't sure if the Silicon image chipset was the same on the expert board or not. Looks as though it is.

As thinker said, you can pretty much move anything anywhere. Probably with the exception of system files







I wonder if you could even move those as long as you specify the proper path.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, I don't see why you wouldn't be able too. I say go for it. I have a feeling you'll be very surprised after putting two 10K Raptors in Raid 0. By the way if you check out my post about a page back I suggested backing up your files to a separate drive. There's absolutely nothing wrong with that. If you keep your rig on 24/7 then you want to think about scheduling a nightly backup









Good luck

I only run 24/7 for the foldathons. Otherwise when I sleep or am not at the PC they sleep or are turned off. I try to conserve, every bit helps. I can run back ups but I don't know how to repair data from a back up in the event something should crash a drive or my OS. That should be another thing for me to learn soon... I have already lost gaming files twice to the Seagate 500GB drives that I have. I should prolly sell those on ebay and then get some newer 640WD black drives.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
As thinker said, you can pretty much move anything anywhere. Probably with the exception of system files







I wonder if you could even move those as long as you specify the proper path.

BlackOmega, applications such as Symantec Backup Exec use Microsoft's volume shadow copy service so it is possible to copy _any_ file via real-time


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I can run back ups but I don't know how to repair data from a back up in the event something should crash a drive or my OS.

N2Gaming, what kind of back up software is it?

(sorry for the double post)


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, what kind of back up software is it?

(sorry for the double post)


the only backup software that I have comes prebuilt into XP Pro x64







and I don't have any experience using it.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I only run 24/7 for the foldathons. Otherwise when I sleep or am not at the PC they sleep or are turned off. I try to conserve, every bit helps. I can run back ups but I don't know how to repair data from a back up in the event something should crash a drive or my OS. That should be another thing for me to learn soon... I have already lost gaming files twice to the Seagate 500GB drives that I have. I should prolly sell those on ebay and then get some newer 640WD black drives.


 N2, once you lose a drive in a RAID 0 array, the whole array is toast (I'm sure there are ways of repairing it, but I bet they're pretty costly). You have to create a new array. So basically everything on your storage drive should be just fine.

But this poses a question, for me anyway, suppose you have all of your games installed on the "storage" drive, I wonder if you set up a new array if you'll have to reinstall all of the games.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


the only backup software that I have comes prebuilt into XP Pro x64







and I don't have any experience using it.


N2Gaming, the built-in "Windows XP Backup" utility is fairly easy to use. There are several guides via Google that provide some easy to understand instructions.

Hope that helps buddy


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


But this poses a question, for me anyway, suppose you have all of your games installed on the "storage" drive, I wonder if you set up a new array if you'll have to reinstall all of the games.










BlackOmega, I would think so. I guess it depends on if the game puts entries in the registry. Most applications/games have references in the registry that they use. Obviously the registry is on your C:/ drive so it may pose an issue...


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


N2, once you lose a drive in a RAID 0 array, the whole array is toast (I'm sure there are ways of repairing it, but I bet they're pretty costly). You have to create a new array. So basically everything on your storage drive should be just fine.

But this poses a question, for me anyway, suppose you have all of your games installed on the "storage" drive, I wonder if you set up a new array if you'll have to reinstall all of the games.










I'm thinking you have to reistall all the games unless you have backed up your start up or programs directory or something like that so that the games will appear on the list when you click on start/programs/Activision/COD4 etc etc. The most important save about games is profiles, check points, mods, updates, etc etc. That is what takes the longest. Installing the games are easy it's tracking down all the updates and rebuilding your stats if they are not stored online, like in BF2 well at least I think BF2 stores your stats online. IDK maybe it don't, any way that is what I understand about games when you have to reinstall your OS.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I actually read through the whole thing and it didn't seem like anything helped. Well maybe enabling and disabling certain features but it didn't seem to make that much of a difference. It still didn't beat out the SB750.


Well problem #1 was that he was running the Dell Firmware which limits options.

He needs to flash to the LSI firmware to take full advantage of the PERC 5/i (6/i has better Dell Firmware and doesn't matter much either way.)

But I should explained that better, it was an example of improper implementation.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


What makes the SB750 better than the jmicron one? I'm not doubting you, I'd just like to know for curiosities sake. Hell I might just install on both










HardOCP has a Review of the ICH10R (SB750 is right below it in RAID 0) vs JMB 322

And the MSI GD70 has the same Jmicron controller. So you can see that it just falls short.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Well problem #1 was that he was running the Dell Firmware which limits options.

He needs to flash to the LSI firmware to take full advantage of the PERC 5/i (6/i has better Dell Firmware and doesn't matter much either way.)

But I should explained that better, it was an example of improper implementation.

HardOCP has a Review of the ICH10R (SB750 is right below it in RAID 0) vs JMB 322

And the MSI GD70 has the same Jmicron controller. So you can see that it just falls short.

Wow thats pretty amazing. The Jmicron actually did worse in RAID 0 than it did with a standalone drive in AHCI mode.
Well I think I might finally be able to get the dang SB750 RAID working. This is really becoming a pain in my butt. It would've been nice if they had explained what needs to be on the floppy in a little bit more detail. It seems my issues have been a matter of missing a file. Well wish me luck, I'm am going to attempt it (again







).

Thanks for that info btw, Tator.


----------



## Hueristic

BO, You can open the driver INF and that will tell you what files are needed.

Grandmother died 2 days ago, Wake today Funeral tomorrow.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
BO, You can open the driver INF and that will tell you what files are needed.

Grandmother died 2 days ago, Wake today Funeral tomorrow.

so sorry to hear that H, My thoughts are with your family.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Wow thats pretty amazing. The Jmicron actually did worse in RAID 0 than it did with a standalone drive in AHCI mode. 
Well I think I might finally be able to get the dang SB750 RAID working. This is really becoming a pain in my butt. It would've been nice if they had explained what needs to be on the floppy in a little bit more detail. It seems my issues have been a matter of missing a file. Well wish me luck, I'm am going to attempt it (again







).

Thanks for that info btw, Tator.










No problem BO...though...if you just moved to Vista or 7....









ATis RAIDXpert software is pretty easy to use, though I don't remember if AMD's site has any manuals on it and whatnot.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


BO, You can open the driver INF and that will tell you what files are needed.

Grandmother died 2 days ago, Wake today Funeral tomorrow.


My sympathies man. Good luck today & tomorrow.


----------



## nategr8ns

I wish I could go raid







.
Anyway, just thought I should let you guys know that I bought a car on Saturday







.

Pics:



This is it's resting place.











I'm thinking of putting the hubcaps back on. People keep telling me it looks trashy with them off.


----------



## Tator Tot

Is your house really that color pink....


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


BO, You can open the driver INF and that will tell you what files are needed.

Grandmother died 2 days ago, Wake today Funeral tomorrow.


My condolences, Hue.

To those who play CSS. Have you looked inside the computers in cs_office? Looks like socket 939 to me!
In case you don't remember, I happen to own that particular board.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Is your house really that color pink....


yeah
















Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


My condolences, Hue.

To those who play CSS. Have you looked inside the computers in cs_office? Looks like socket 939 to me!
In case you don't remember, I happen to own that particular board.










I hadn't realized it was 939 but I had realized it was based on an ASUS board.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Grandmother died 2 days ago, Wake today Funeral tomorrow.


Sorry to hear this news Hueristic. Are you covered to get to the wake and funeral. Do you need any help? There has Just been to many deaths in the last year or so.







My condolences to you and your family.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
To those who play CSS. Have you looked inside the computers in cs_office? Looks like socket 939 to me!
In case you don't remember, I happen to own that particular board.









For shame Valve, everyone knows that those cases look like the old Dell cases. And that Dell uses Delta PSU's & Foxconn Motherboards.


----------



## Blitz6804

Congrats on the car nategr8ns.

Nice find HothBase.

Apologies Hue.

I added you to the off-site roster locally [email protected], but Webs.com is not permitting me to upload it right now.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Grandmother died 2 days ago, Wake today Funeral tomorrow.

Hueristic, sorry to hear that. Hope everyone goes well the next couple of days.

Nategr8ns, do you have plans for your new ride? Any mods ect?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
For shame Valve, everyone knows that those cases look like the old Dell cases. And that Dell uses Delta PSU's & Foxconn Motherboards.

Tator, you can definitely see the "VIA" logo labeled on the southbridge chipset though hahaha. I've worked on quite a few Dimensions like that in the past. Brand wise I think it varied but there sure was quite a few Foxconn/Asus boards in them.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Tator you can definitely see the "VIA" logo labeled on the southbridge chipset though hahaha. I've worked on quite a few Dimensions like that in the past. Brand wise I think it varied but there sure was quite a few Foxconn/Asus boards in them.

Last I checked

Asus/AsRock were loaded into HP/Compaq machines while Dell & eMachines used Foxconn Mobo's.

Both companies (Asus/Foxconn) are very strict on not letting their buyers use any other mobo's. As is Delta with PSU's.

I'm not sure who HP/Compaq get's their PSU's from though.


----------



## thlnk3r

Tator, actually your right about the Dell machines. Emachine back in the day had some mATX Asus boards. That's probably what I am thinking off...


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator, actually your right about the Dell machines. Emachine back in the day had some mATX Asus boards. That's probably what I am thinking off...


eMachines did for a small period of time. But it was very brief.


----------



## nategr8ns

Sorry to hear about your grandmother Huer, I missed the bad news when I was skimming







.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Nategr8ns, do you have plans for your new ride? Any mods ect?


I don't know, I only have about $1k left over after the car and I'm not sure what kind of money I'm going to have to throw at gas and whether or not I'm paying full insurance (I'm on my parents plan so it makes it a bit trickier). Anyway, I want an exhaust just so it sounds different, not for any performance. I've gotten an offer of MIG time/experience in return for the materials and some burritos from a place by me







. I'm also thinking separate winter/summer wheels and tires as I currently only have black steelies (I put the hubcaps back on after my friends told me it looked junky with them off







). Possibly bigger sway bars too.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


BO, You can open the driver INF and that will tell you what files are needed.

Grandmother died 2 days ago, Wake today Funeral tomorrow.










Sorry to hear that Hue.







My sincerest condolences.

Thanks for that tip in opening the .INF, although what do I use to open it? Notepad?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


No problem BO...though...if you just moved to Vista or 7....









ATis RAIDXpert software is pretty easy to use, though I don't remember if AMD's site has any manuals on it and whatnot.


 Well I might get on the win7 thing......but then again that costs money and there's another reason I can't "upgrade" but I can not disclose that here.









Congrats Nate! That looks like a nice impreza







. Just so you know, impreza means party in Polish









And now for an update on my situation. So I ran off about 4 different floppies with 4 different file arrangements and it still doesn't work and I still get the x86.sys caused an error thing. I'm sstarting to wonder if in fact this is a problem with their driver and not anything else. I've got everything setup the way it is supposed to be in the BIOS and in the array manager thing. Arg this is frustrating.

O well I might just have to send a repair ticket to them.


----------



## Blitz6804

Depending on what sort of torque you get and how cold Maine gets would be whether or not you go snow tires / summer tires Nate. Personally, I am more in favor of high quality all-season tires rather than high-quality summer tires and snow tires. If for some reason it snows prior to changing to the snow tires, you will be in for a fun ride. On the flip side, regular tire rubber starts to harden between 30 and 50Âº F, depending on the exact tire. Snow tires do not start to harden until 0 to 20Âº F, giving you greater traction at lower temperatures. While I may have no qualms doing over 100 MPH on a dry summer road, I would not recommend doing much above 75 MPH when the temperature is in the teens, even if the road is clear and dry.

Also, check your laws regarding studded and banded tires. Some states prohibit the use of snow tires during certain months of the year. In New York for example, you may only use them from October 1 until April 1.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Congrats Nate! That looks like a nice impreza







. Just so you know, impreza means party in Polish










Subaru Sportswagon: The Anti-Mullet
Party in the front with the Boxer-4
Business in the back (although you can party back there too







).


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


BO, You can open the driver INF and that will tell you what files are needed.

Grandmother died 2 days ago, Wake today Funeral tomorrow.












My heartfelt sympathies, Hue.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
And now for an update on my situation. So I ran off about 4 different floppies with 4 different file arrangements and it still doesn't work and I still get the x86.sys caused an error thing. I'm sstarting to wonder if in fact this is a problem with their driver and not anything else. I've got everything setup the way it is supposed to be in the BIOS and in the array manager thing. Arg this is frustrating.

BlackOmega, I just wanted to clarify. You are using the raid driver from MSI's website that is labeled, "ATI SB7xx RAID Driver" correct? All the files included in the zip file should be placed on the floppy disk. You don't have to place them in any special folder. Just copy them as they are. It sounds like you're choose the correct driver, "x86". I see only two folders in there (x86 and x64).

Have you tried different download locations? I've downloaded files before from MSI that arrived corrupted so just FYI.

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, I just wanted to clarify. You are using the raid driver from MSI's website that is labeled, "ATI SB7xx RAID Driver" correct? All the files included in the zip file should be placed on the floppy disk. You don't have to place them in any special folder. Just copy them as they are. It sounds like you're choose the correct driver, "x86". I see only two folders in there (x86 and x64).

Have you tried different download locations? I've downloaded files before from MSI that arrived corrupted so just FYI.

Good luck


 Yeah I've downloaded the ATI SB7xx RAID driver. I'll try a different location and see if it makes a difference.

The first floppy I ran off (5 total), was basically the .zip extracted on to a floppy. So how ever they had it arranged is how it was on the disk, folders and all. The 2-5th floppies was w/o the folders. just the files on the disk. However, I did not copy the x64 driver in there because I assumed they wouldn't be needed. 
So my thoughts are, I'll d/l another .zip file from a different location, then extract the way it is on to a floppy, and I'll also extract just the files w/o folders.


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hey sim







Good to see that you're busy. You're still in school right?

Guitar is a lot of fun. Man, I haven't picked one up on a long time. I've been meaning to get an electric, preferably a Jackson or a Charvel. Those are my favs. They play so nicely









What'd you get? And possibly more importantly what kind of music are you playing?










Yep, still in school (11th grade right now







)

I have a Cort Flying V made in the 70's or so. It's so nice for being a 30+ year old guitar. I plan on getting a ESP/LTD or a lower end Jackson soon. Man, I'd do anything to get a vintage 80's Charvel. I play hard rock and Metal


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *simfreak47*


Yep, still in school (11th grade right now







)

I have a Cort Flying V made in the 70's or so. It's so nice for being a 30+ year old guitar. I plan on getting a ESP/LTD or a lower end Jackson soon. Man, I'd do anything to get a vintage 80's Charvel. I play hard rock and Metal










My oldest brother got a Jackson for his 16th birthday. He had to pawn and regrets in ever since. I saw one 2 Sunday nights ago on a heavy metal music video we were watching together and I told my brother hey that looks like the guitar you got for your 16th B-day back in the 80's and he was like holy shoot you remeber that you were just a kid... Then he sigh's and said yeah it's exactely like the one he had but his did not have the pic gard. It was black w/2 thin white stripes on the outter edge. I don't know a lot about guitars but I have a good visual memory...


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


My oldest brother got a Jackson for his 16th birthday. He had to pawn and regrets in ever since. I saw one 2 Sunday nights ago on a heavy metal music video we were watching together and I told my brother hey that looks like the guitar you got for your 16th B-day back in the 80's and he was like holy shoot you remeber that you were just a kid... Then he sigh's and said yeah it's exactely like the one he had but his did not have the pic gard. It was black w/2 thin white stripes on the outter edge. I don't know a lot about guitars but I have a good visual memory...


From the description, it sounds like it was a great guitar.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *simfreak47*


Yep, still in school (11th grade right now







)

I have a Cort Flying V made in the 70's or so. It's so nice for being a 30+ year old guitar. I plan on getting a ESP/LTD or a lower end Jackson soon. Man, I'd do anything to get a vintage 80's Charvel. I play hard rock and Metal










 Good to hear you're still in school.









LOL and there's something I'd never thought I'd hear in the same sentence, vintage and 80's.









But yeah jackson/charvel's are definitely the way to go if you play metal/hard rock. The necks are so wide and basically effortless to play. You don't even really have to push down on the strings. Man that's soo nice.

I played a Charvel after playing my Gibson melody maker and the difference was night and day. The only Gibson I really liked to play was the explorer. That's one of those that you see in the 80's metal bands. It looks like a lightning bolt.









I need to stop, otherwise my wife is going to kill me after I go buy a guitar/amp.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *simfreak47*


From the description, it sounds like it was a great guitar.


Yeah he said it would be worth a lot of money today if he still had it. It also had 4 volume dials on the face. Well I don't know if they were for volume but they were round w/numbers on them and were intended for some kind of adjustments.


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Good to hear you're still in school.









LOL and there's something I'd never thought I'd hear in the same sentence, vintage and 80's.









But yeah jackson/charvel's are definitely the way to go if you play metal/hard rock. The necks are so wide and basically effortless to play. You don't even really have to push down on the strings. Man that's soo nice.

I played a Charvel after playing my Gibson melody maker and the difference was night and day. The only Gibson I really liked to play was the explorer. That's one of those that you see in the 80's metal bands. It looks like a lightning bolt.









I need to stop, otherwise my wife is going to kill me after I go buy a guitar/amp.










Yeah, thats what I love about Jackson guitars. My uncle had one and I remember it played so good. Too bad he sold it.









BTW The only two Gibson models I actually like are the SG and Explorer. They play a lot different than a nice Jackson or even a Schecter. I can go on all day about guitars lol


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


However, I did not copy the x64 driver in there because I assumed they wouldn't be needed.


BlackOmega, that's correct. You shouldn't have to. The path is in the oem setup file so if it can't find it will just error out. Keep us updated.

Good luck


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


so sorry to hear that H, My thoughts are with your family.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


My sympathies man. Good luck today & tomorrow.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


My condolences, Hue.

To those who play CSS. Have you looked inside the computers in cs_office? Looks like socket 939 to me!
In case you don't remember, I happen to own that particular board.











Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Sorry to hear this news Hueristic. Are you covered to get to the wake and funeral. Do you need any help? There has Just been to many deaths in the last year or so.








My condolences to you and your family.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Apologies Hue.

I added you to the off-site roster locally [email protected], but Webs.com is not permitting me to upload it right now.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Sorry to hear about your grandmother Huer, I missed the bad news when I was skimming







.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*









Sorry to hear that Hue.







My sincerest condolences.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*











My heartfelt sympathies, Hue.


Thx guys, Fortunately it wasn't a surprise and I've had the last few months to say my good buys. I've spent as much time with her as I could. She would have been 90 oct.18th, I was hoping she would make it but She had a full life and had no regrets. How many of us can say that? I'm just trying to be there for the rest of the family. Not many of us left. Lol

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, that's correct. You shouldn't have to. The path is in the oem setup file so if it can't find it will just error out. Keep us updated.

Good luck












Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Anyway, just thought I should let you guys know that I bought a car on Saturday







.














































Now Don't go out and do this --->









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Is your house really that color pink....


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


... and had no regrets. How many of us can say that?


God knows I cannot.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


God knows I cannot.


same here.

Good to see you back Hue...


----------



## Kryton

Sorry to hear about your loss Hue. 
My condolances (Hope I spelled that right) to you and your family.

I have a guitar I've had for sometime now but I still don't know how to play it!









I simply haven't had the time I really need to figure things out. I know I could learn it, just have to find time to sit down and get on with it. For reference, it's a Washburn "House of Blues" electric. 
Believe it's suitable for a beginner and could probrably do for some time but I'd love to eventually get a better one. Years, ago, I used to play around with the neighbor's electric, a 68 Silvertone with it's original matching amp (Yeah, tubes instead of transistors - Nothing today even comes close to sounding like it). He still has it and just wish I could get that one - Even had the chance back then to get it but being a teen at the time meant no $$'s to spare for it.

I'd would have been happy with that one for sure!


----------



## Blitz6804

Kryton, it must be asked... how did you get your Heka to 4275 MHz with a stock cooler!?


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Kryton, it must be asked... how did you get your Heka to 4275 MHz with a stock cooler!?


Very carefully.









Did some experimenting using an AC unit to help things out. It was a temporary setup and looking to eventually create a more permenant solution.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Thx guys, Fortunately it wasn't a surprise and I've had the last few months to say my good buys. I've spent as much time with her as I could. She would have been 90 oct.18th, I was hoping she would make it but She had a full life and had no regrets. How many of us can say that? I'm just trying to be there for the rest of the family. Not many of us left. Lol

I had the same about 2 years back this December with my Great Grandma, she was 93 when she died.
Those last coupla months are always the roughest. But I'm glad you got in all the time you could man.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Very carefully.









Did some experimenting using an AC unit to help things out. It was a temporary setup and looking to eventually create a more permenant solution.


 Sounds like great skill and determination to me.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, that's correct. You shouldn't have to. The path is in the oem setup file so if it can't find it will just error out. Keep us updated.

Good luck



Will do thlnk3r. Yeah the OEM setup file is there. The error always seems to be with the x86.sys file. And it'll change error code and line that it occurred, depending if the x86 folder is on the floppy or if it's just the root files. But both times it's the .sys error.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Kryton, it must be asked... how did you get your Heka to 4275 MHz with a stock cooler!?


Blitz, wow I just now noticed that overclock!









Kryton, was this processor cherry picked by any chance? Is it Prime/OCCT stable at those clocks? Wow 4.2Ghz is awesome!


----------



## JakeM

Add me to ze club! Just got my AMD 64 K8 3200+ today! I'll oc it tomorrow when I get new cooler..


----------



## BlackOmega

Submit a CPUz validation and you'll be added Jake.


----------



## JakeM

Aight, will do as soon as I've put on a new cooling and figured out if I can apply silver thermal grease on the NB instead of the white stuff that was previously.









http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...-fatal1ty.html

Helping my would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JakeM*


Aight, will do as soon as I've put on a new cooling and figured out if I can apply silver thermal grease on the NB instead of the white stuff that was previously.









http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...-fatal1ty.html

Helping my would be greatly appreciated.










 Answered in your other post.


----------



## egerds

I have a friends ic7-g mobo that went kaput, What would be the optimal performance/ buck to replace? searched i have only found this mobo 139 ~ 170. her processor is p4 3.2 ht, and ram 4 x 512 jdec timings pc3200. I have a couple 478 mobo's but none w/ 4 ram slots. I am guessing a rig like my basement two asrock dual-sata x2 3800+, but am not sure. Would need to purch mobo, cpu, heatsink to replace her bricked ic7-g. I don't have enough rep to post in for sale / wanted

<edit> forgot to include her abit / p4 3.2 ht, rig was purchased back in 2004, includes an ati 9800 pro, so would prefer to have ddr1 and an agp slot, I had noticed that several 939's do not have agp.</edit>


----------



## N2Gaming

Hi eferds, This is a club of the great socket 939 cpu's in the AMD section of the forum. I think you may find better results posting your question in the intel section of the forum. You may find some intel enthusiasts in this thread but your chances are slim to nill.

Good Luck,

Edit: Oh I missed the point of this one. Hueristic has one of those ASRock mobo's. ASRock just came out w/a new mobo that will support socket 939 on a 780G chipset. I don't think it has AGP though.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JakeM*


Aight, will do as soon as I've put on a new cooling and figured out if I can apply silver thermal grease on the NB instead of the white stuff that was previously.









http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...-fatal1ty.html


JakeM, welcome to the Socket 939 club. As soon as you post up your cpu-z validation link I can add you to the roster. I'll also have a look at the above link you posted. By the way the Abit Fatality series boards were awesome









Quote:



Originally Posted by *egerds*


I am guessing a rig like my basement two asrock dual-sata x2 3800+, but am not sure. Would need to purch mobo, cpu, heatsink to replace her bricked ic7-g. I don't have enough rep to post in for sale / wanted

<edit> forgot to include her abit / p4 3.2 ht, rig was purchased back in 2004, includes an ati 9800 pro, so would prefer to have ddr1 and an agp slot, I had noticed that several 939's do not have agp.</edit>


Egerds, do you just have the Asrock motherboard available for her? I'm sure we could point you in the right direction if you're looking for additional parts. There were Socket 939 motherboards that came with AGP. Those were _typically_ the older boards with the nForce 3 chipset.

Good luck buddy


----------



## Blitz6804

Like the one stewing in my garage for example.


----------



## egerds

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hi eferds, This is a club of the great socket 939 cpu's in the AMD section of the forum. I think you may find better results posting your question in the intel section of the forum. You may find some intel enthusiasts in this thread but your chances are slim to nill.

Good Luck,


Isn't 939 the fastest platform for agp / ddr1?

I posted here b/c i don't think that purching a ic7-g to run her 478 p4 3.2 ht would be performance / price wise, wouldn't a 939 x2 3800 blow her prescott out of the water, but use the same ram and gpu?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *egerds*


Isn't 939 the fastest platform for agp / ddr1?

I posted here b/c i don't think that purching a ic7-g to run her 478 p4 3.2 ht would be performance / price wise, wouldn't a 939 x2 3800 blow her prescott out of the water, but use the same ram and gpu?


You are correct to think this. plese excuse my ignorance. I did not completely understand your original post. I have since edited my post after re-reading your original post. I'm sure you could pick up something on Ebay fairly decent pricewise. You just have to be carefull on ebay. There's a lot of scumbags that like to try to burn people not knowing that your 100% covered by paypal if the listing is not acurate.

Edit: here is a ebay link to An Asrock 939 that has AGP


----------



## [email protected]

My condolences to you and your family Hueristic.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I added you to the off-site roster locally [email protected], but Webs.com is not permitting me to upload it right now.


Thanks for adding me blitz.


----------



## egerds

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


You are correct to think this. plese excuse my ignorance. I did not completely understand your original post. I have since edited my post after re-reading your original post. I'm sure you could pick up something on Ebay fairly decent pricewise. You just have to be carefull on ebay. There's a lot of scumbags that like to try to burn people not knowing that your 100% covered by paypal if the listing is not acurate.

Edit: here is a ebay link to An Asrock 939 that has AGP


yeah i kinda got burnt on my asrock dual sata from ebay, used pay pal, made 3 contacts for rma b/c slot closest to cpu will not accept any double sided ddr1. but other then that its good, I reseated the processor, ram and cleaned each w/ a toothbrush. Is it possible that the cpu is bad and will not take double sided ram in closest slot to cpu, or that the mobo has a connection broken? wish there was a way to test which is bad.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *egerds*


s it possible that the cpu is bad and will not take double sided ram in closest slot to cpu, or that the mobo has a connection broken? wish there was a way to test which is bad.


Egerds, the only way to test that theory would be if you had another processor to test with. I have feeling it's more of a chipset/memory issue. How many different sticks of memory did you test? Have you tried flashing to a newer bios? Are you getting any beep codes after powering on the machine?

To answer the first part of your question, yes a 3800+ X2 performs better than a Prescott including temperatures









Good luck


----------



## egerds

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Egerds, the only way to test that theory would be if you had another processor to test with. I have feeling it's more of a chipset/memory issue. How many different sticks of memory did you test? Have you tried flashing to a newer bios? Are you getting any beep codes after powering on the machine?

To answer the first part of your question, yes a 3800+ X2 performs better than a Prescott including temperatures









Good luck


tested 12 different ddr1 modules 7 double sided 5 single, all the singles work, and spend 3 days ubu 9.04 memtesting also, no errors on any that posted.

can't find anyone in my area w/ 939 hardware to test mobo / cpu
newest bios 4.30, supprisingly that 3.2 prescott is not preshott, it runs just above room temps


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *egerds*


yeah i kinda got burnt on my asrock dual sata from ebay, used pay pal, made 3 contacts for rma b/c slot closest to cpu will not accept any double sided ddr1. but other then that its good, I reseated the processor, ram and cleaned each w/ a toothbrush. Is it possible that the cpu is bad and will not take double sided ram in closest slot to cpu, or that the mobo has a connection broken? wish there was a way to test which is bad.


did you get the cpu on ebay? If so I would not rule that out entirely. It's to bad you don't have a second cpu to test with. Now if your gonna get another board/cpu for your friend then you could always cross compare the one you get for her against your hardware to see what the problem may be. Have you tried to set the ram timings for the double sided ram manually while you have the single sided ram modules in just to see if it is a ram timing thing. Also set the voltage as well. IDK seems like it may be worth a shot to me.


----------



## egerds

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
did you get the cpu on ebay? If so I would not rule that out entirely. It's to bad you don't have a second cpu to test with. Now if your gonna get another board/cpu for your friend then you could always cross compare the one you get for her against your hardware to see what the problem may be. Have you tried to set the ram timings for the double sided ram manually while you have the single sided ram modules in just to see if it is a ram timing thing. Also set the voltage as well. IDK seems like it may be worth a shot to me.

yes manually set speed / timings, to each respective modules, the board will not go dual channel w/ 4 modules unless they are the same modules







, but i have 4 modules of ocz 2-3-2-5 400 (2 identical kits exact same revision # even)

Haven't decided which way to go, to just well her one of my 478 boards w/ only 2 ddr1 slots or, purching 939 mobo/cpu/heatsink to get max usage out of her existing 5 year old hardware.
What is the fastest mobo/cpu combo that can use 4x 1gb ddr1, and agp?


----------



## N2Gaming

Here is a Gigabyte GA-K8U-939 agp mobo

Here is a Gigabyte GA-K8NSC-939 agp mobo

Here is a MSI K8N Neo2 Platinum socket 939 agp mobo

Here is a DFI LanParty UT NF3 ULTRA D Socket 939 agp Motherboard

Here is a ASUS atx K8T800 939 Agp mobo

Ther is prolly a few more out there. I found these by doing a google search. You can do research on any of those mobos by using google.

Good Luck.

Oh and I did not look to see if there were any newer chipsets w/am2 cpu sockets that support AGP slot.


----------



## Blitz6804

If you want to use a dual-core 939 with Vista and an ATi AGP card, avoid anything with an nForce3 chipset. I know personally that such a combination will not work. An nVidia card, a single core CPU, or a non-nForce3 board will remove this problem. I know from experience on my Gigabyte GA-K8NSC-939. (This is the board sitting unused in my garage right now.) SiS and VIA both had this problem when Vista came out, but they fixed them. nVidia refuses to fix their Vista driver, intentionally intending to gimp it. If you disable a core on a dual core, the ATi card works fine. Run dual core, and AGP GART refuses to load.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*













































Now Don't go out and do this --->








































haha, thanks Hue







. Yeah, I refuse to touch that stuff when I know I have to drive (otherwise I only do it with my family, so its mostly alright, right?







).


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hey guys, great info on S939 + AGP questions.


----------



## egerds

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
If you want to use a dual-core 939 with Vista and an ATi AGP card, avoid anything with an nForce3 chipset. I know personally that such a combination will not work. An nVidia card, a single core CPU, or a non-nForce3 board will remove this problem. I know from experience on my Gigabyte GA-K8NSC-939. (This is the board sitting unused in my garage right now.) SiS and VIA both had this problem when Vista came out, but they fixed them. nVidia refuses to fix their Vista driver, intentionally intending to gimp it. If you disable a core on a dual core, the ATi card works fine. Run dual core, and AGP GART refuses to load.

Thank you!!! It was driving me crazy why i could not get the x1950 pro working, the innotech 8600 works just fine though


----------



## Blitz6804

Yep; that is a flaw with nVidia. If you disable a core so you have a single-core processor, it works fine. If I remember right, the 8600 was the last nVidia card made for AGP. It is argued that nVidia intentionally gimped ATi's offerings (as new as an AGP HD 4770) to encourage people into newer SLI solutions rather than holding onto the (still rather capable) AGP bus. The easiest fix, of course, is to use an operating system other than Vista. I am unknowledgeable if this also occurs with Windows 7.

What is infuriating is that the Public Relations department repeatedly says a fix is in the works for it. The Tech Support department stone walls you saying that no fix will ever be made. I signed onto a Petition for a driver, but I think nothing ever came of it.

EDIT: What is most humorous is that most people effected by this anti-competitive maneuver are those who use an ASRock AM2NF3-VSTA, which carries a "Certified for Windows Vista," and even alludes to Vista in the name. (AM2+ nForce3 / AGP motherboard.) The board purports to support even AM3 quad cores, but I am dubious of that. At least it clearly says (now) that you cannot use an ATi card with Vista.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


. I signed onto a Petition for a driver, but I think nothing ever came of it.

















Like that's gonna do anything. Nvidia does what makes them money period end of story.







Here is some love for you ATI users.


----------



## OSDCrusher

I never knew that the 8600 was AGP...


----------



## Blitz6804

Well Hue, you will be happy with me... I just signed up for my first foldathon! I do not have any of the big producers, but I figure 3x HD 4870s (it refuses to fold on all four; the GPU1 and GPU3 clients run on physical GPU1*), an SMP T7700, and a PS3 should help some.

*I have thus unanswered posts on the problem with Overclock.net and FoldingForum.org.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *egerds* 
yes manually set speed / timings, to each respective modules, the board will not go dual channel w/ 4 modules unless they are the same modules







, but i have 4 modules of ocz 2-3-2-5 400 (2 identical kits exact same revision # even)

Haven't decided which way to go, to just well her one of my 478 boards w/ only 2 ddr1 slots or, purching 939 mobo/cpu/heatsink to get max usage out of her existing 5 year old hardware.
What is the fastest mobo/cpu combo that can use 4x 1gb ddr1, and agp?

Asrock also makes the SATAII board which has an AGP and a PCIe slot on there. So you could even "upgrade" her gpu to a cheap PCIe version.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Well Hue, you will be happy with me... I just signed up for my first foldathon! I do not have any of the big producers, but I figure 3x HD 4870s (it refuses to fold on all four; the GPU1 and GPU3 clients run on physical GPU1*), an SMP T7700, and a PS3 should help some.

*I have thus unanswered posts on the problem with Overclock.net and FoldingForum.org.

Did Stanford release the new ATi clients yet? I've been wanting to try them out. The GPU2 V6 didn't work worth a damn for me, if you recall. 2 instances on the same card







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Well Hue, you will be happy with me... I just signed up for my first foldathon! I do not have any of the big producers, but I figure 3x HD 4870s (it refuses to fold on all four; the GPU1 and GPU3 clients run on physical GPU1*), an SMP T7700, and a PS3 should help some.

*I have thus unanswered posts on the problem with Overclock.net and FoldingForum.org.

Hues prolly at the Funeral...







I need help setting up profinity and VMWare in my FahMon monitor.


----------



## Blitz6804

Exactly the problem BlackOmega... gpu 0 runs on GPU 0. gpu 2 on GPU 2. Both gpu 1 and gpu 3 run on GPU 1 leaving GPU 3 sitting around doing nothing. (Lower case being clients; upper case being physical cards.)

And no, unfortunately, GPU v3 is not out yet. Supposedly, sometime early in 2010, since it will be a unified nVidia/ATi client, they wanted to wait until the GTX 3xx launched. Since that seems dead, who knows if it will be sooner. SMP v2 should be out within a month.

N2Gaming: I am the worst person to ask with VMWare. The only thing I use VMWare for is to run legacy games (16-bit) in Vista 64-bit; all my folders (SMP or GPU) are Windows native.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I need help setting up profinity and VMWare in my FahMon monitor.


N2Gaming, which machine do you plan on running for this? The processor must have the "virtualization" extension enabled via BIOS all though I COULD be wrong on this but I'm pretty sure you need it. Some older AMD processors did not have this extension in the processor. Perhaps another member can chime in with more details.

Let us know

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I know with VirtualBox, virtualization is not required, but the virtual machine runs a LOT faster with virtualization enabled. XP boot times on my Laptop (Intel T7700) differed by a factor of 4-5 with virtualization on versus off in the BIOS. Some Virtual Machine software, like Microsoft's official Windows Virtual PC, does in fact require virtualization.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, which machine do you plan on running for this? The processor must have the "virtualization" extension enabled via BIOS all though I COULD be wrong on this but I'm pretty sure you need it. Some older AMD processors did not have this extension in the processor. Perhaps another member can chime in with more details.

Let us know

Good luck

Yeah your CPU needs VT.

But to my Knowledge, almost every single Athlon 64 CPU and up has VT on it. And Select Athlon XP's do as well.


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks thinker and blitz.

this is in my sig rig and I am able to get the VMWare error10's folding software on my machine running with 2 instances but it makes all of my GPU's PPD suffer big time. I also am not able to see the PPD of the VMWare machines in the FahMon screen like I am w/my GPU's.

Edit: see second picture down.

Here is my folding results on my 4 GPU's on this rig. Sorry the picture is to small. That is because my desktop is stretched accross 4 gpu's.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Thanks thinker and blitz.

this is in my sig rig and I am able to get the VMWare error10's folding software on my machine running with 2 instances but it makes all of my GPU's PPD suffer big time. I also am not able to see the PPD of the VMWare machines in the FahMon screen like I am w/my GPU's.

VMware SMP is known to take out GPU2 PPD to varrying degree's.

I'd just run SMP Native to windows as it's easier to track, setup, and you keep full GPU2 productivity while loosing around 400PPD max on your CPU.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


VMware SMP is known to take out GPU2 PPD to varrying degree's.

I'd just run SMP Native to windows as it's easier to track, setup, and you keep full GPU2 productivity while loosing around 400PPD max on your CPU.


Thanks Tator, yeah windows smp supposedly folds slower but allows your cpu and system to stay cooler.

I guess I can try this. Do you have a link to the XP cpu client. I gotta get it set up so I can at least turn in a few windows based smp work units during the thon.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thanks Tator, yeah windows smp supposedly folds slower but allows your cpu and system to stay cooler.

I guess I can try this. Do you have a link to the XP cpu client. I gotta get it set up so I can at least turn in a few windows based smp work units during the thon.










Download here and replace the .exe after you've followed the instructions in the read-me with this one

This guide should help, and translates to XP pretty well.


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks Tator. I was reading this when you posted that.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, wow I just now noticed that overclock!









Kryton, was this processor cherry picked by any chance? Is it Prime/OCCT stable at those clocks? Wow 4.2Ghz is awesome!


No, it isn't but I believe with cooler weather headed our way, that may change.

I can get it stable around 4.1 or so at the moment but the issue I'm having with my RAM not wanting to run at stock speeds is something I need to work on. Either I've fried the RAM or the IMC in the chip and it's only stable at DDR2 speeds as is. 
I'm thinking about picking up a Sargas chip since it's the cheapest fix IF the X3 has a bad IMC but also want one for the heck of it.

No way I'd have access to anything "Cherry Picked" since I don't know anyone with AMD. Only person I know at all associated with the official AMD site or anything AMD is MD Wilmington. He's a registered member at my other "Home".


----------



## Tator Tot

Kryton, have you tried boosting your CPU-NB Voltage or tested the sticks with Memtest?


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Kryton, have you tried boosting your CPU-NB Voltage or tested the sticks with Memtest?


Boosting the CPU-NB voltage is how the problem came to be I believe. Believe me when I say the voltage was boosted.









Haven't tried Memtest yet but it's strange I can play games or do anything as is with no problems but as soon as I set it for 1066 or higher, the crashing/locking/no POSTing begins. I can even run a 32M Super PI run with my current speeds and it does OK. Basically it's showing the same symptoms my PNY PC4800 sticks did when they finally went bad and I didn't need Memtest to know it when it happened. As to Memtest with those, tried it after I determined them bad and either one will fail the moment it starts with errors all over the place. I was wanting to get another set anyway so I'd have a spare set or two - OC'ing is rough on stuff you know.


----------



## BlackOmega

Kryton, it definitely sounds like your sticks are on the way out. Grab some new sticks and see what happens.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Boosting the CPU-NB voltage is how the problem came to be I believe. Believe me when I say the voltage was boosted.









Funny you mention this. I noticed more stability w/less NB voltage on my x4 940 when overclocking it. Then agin it is AM2+ not AM3 and you have both AM2+ & AM3 IMC so I don't have any hands on experience w/your type of situation.


----------



## Blitz6804

Tator Tot: In my experience, running SMP while running GPU2 clients seriously cripples the GPU2 clients. I do not know about the total PPD, I did not pay much attention, but the GPU2 clients dropped from 2200-2800 each down to a scant 700-900.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Tator Tot: In my experience, running SMP while running GPU2 clients seriously cripples the GPU2 clients. I do not know about the total PPD, I did not pay much attention, but the GPU2 clients dropped from 2200-2800 each down to a scant 700-900.

That is about the percentage I was getting if I used the VMWare clients. This SMP client. is it installed in widows or does it stay in it's own folder like on the desk top for example and can be deleted at any time w/ease. I don't want to install a background app that uses up cpu cores in the background that I am not able to disable.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Tator Tot: In my experience, running SMP while running GPU2 clients seriously cripples the GPU2 clients. I do not know about the total PPD, I did not pay much attention, but the GPU2 clients dropped from 2200-2800 each down to a scant 700-900.

That's because ATi's drivers & the Folding at home client.

Something that's never gotten right. Even in Vista ATi GPU2 v6 [email protected] has high CPU usage, and then some error rolls around when you have the whole mess folding and all your PPD gets blown to the ground.


----------



## egerds

Quote:


Originally Posted by *OSDCrusher* 
I never knew that the 8600 was AGP...

my inno tech 8600 is pci-e, am really disappointed can run win 6.1 7100 x64 and my HIS x1950 pro, that was the main reason i purchased the 939 was to use the 4 sticks ddr1 2-3-2-5 and the 1950 pro, i guess i could install xp but then would be wasting ram, and availble cpu instruction set.


----------



## Blitz6804

Tator: Right now, two GPU2 clients is setting me back about 65% usage.

N2Gaming: I personally have a folder in my FAH folder. It does not auto run in any way, shape, or form. If I remember right, I used WinRAR to extract the files from the installer package rather than running the installer directly.


----------



## N2Gaming

eg, you can get a brand new XP Pro x64 for $59.00 AE or regular XP Pro X64 for &79.00 and that will run as much ram as you can throw at it. I run that and I love it. If you can't tell I'm an XP x64 fanboy...


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Tator Tot: In my experience, running SMP while running GPU2 clients seriously cripples the GPU2 clients. I do not know about the total PPD, I did not pay much attention, but the GPU2 clients dropped from 2200-2800 each down to a scant 700-900.


 This is the main reason my rigs only run GPU clients.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Even in Vista ATi GPU2 v6 [email protected] has high CPU usage, and then some error rolls around when you have the whole mess folding and all your PPD gets blown to the ground.

Tator, would there be less overhead if the different distributions of linux were used? I'm completely ignorant when it comes to [email protected] so I apologize if I'm a bit off


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Tator, would there be less overhead if the different distributions of linux were used? I'm completely ignorant when it comes to [email protected] so I apologize if I'm a bit off









Well...if GPU folding was on linux like it should be...

But no, it's mostly due to the client now as ATi has done all it can really to alleviate it via drivers.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Well...if GPU folding was on linux like it should be...

But no, it's mostly due to the client now as ATi has done all it can really to alleviate it via drivers.

Tator, arg I guess that is a shame. Question: are the folding results (PPD) much higher using newer quad-core processors versus GPU's? I can't imagine what folding would be like on a blade with 4-processors (ie. istanbul six-core) hehe...


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Tator, arg I guess that is a shame. Question: are the folding results (PPD) much higher using newer quad-core processors versus GPU's? I can't imagine what folding would be like on a blade with 4-processors (ie. istanbul six-core) hehe...

It depends on the CPU and whatnot.

But the PPD Per Watt is in the GPU favor.
But a 6 Core CPU could crank out more PPD than just say a GTX 260 or 9800GT.
My CPU cranks out 1600PPD un touched.

Though, SMP uses Idle clocks, so on a 24/7 fold I only get around 1000 PPD from my CPU.

But a Core i9 @ 4.0Ghz is a PPD machine. (6 cores 12 threads, 6 SMP clients total on that machine to use all it's power.)


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks Tator, I'll now put up an additional 1920 or possibly double that amount durring the foldathon.


----------



## Blitz6804

Thlnk3r: My Deneb at 3.5 doing SMP folding generally gets around 1800 PPD. If I do nothing with my PC save for folding, it will be as high as 2800 PPD depending on the size of the work unit. Each HD 4870 pulls in on average 2200 PPD to 2800 PPD even if I am using my computer since there is lower CPU overhead than the SMP client. My T7700 is 1100 to 1900 PPD. When it used to let me fold on the Mobility Radeon HD 2600 (now blocked via drivers) it would get 1600 PPD to 1800 PPD.

N2Gaming: Good show! My gosh ATi folding is fail; two cores of an HD 4870x2 together are lower than a 9800 GT. For that matter, so is the HD 5870, which pulls in a fuzz over 5000 according to grunion.


----------



## Tator Tot

Hold firm Blitz, GPU3 client...it will make us ATi folder happy.

And possibly get me folding on more than just my CPU.


----------



## Blitz6804

I cannot wait for GPU3 (which will boost my desktop's output) and SMP2 (which will boost my laptop's output), both of which should be out soon. Supposedly, SMP2 within a month or so.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I cannot wait for GPU3 (which will boost my desktop's output) and SMP2 (which will boost my laptop's output), both of which should be out soon. Supposedly, SMP2 within a month or so.

SMP2 will probably drop first and quickly. I have no doubt about that as they don't have to rely on a brand as Intel & AMD CPU's calculate in a similar fashion because of having the same instruction sets.


----------



## Blitz6804

Exactly. This is the delay in GPU3: unlike CPUs, there is no unified set between ATi and nVidia yet, and the goal is to have a unified GPU client. What is the highest common CPU instruction set? SSSE3?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Exactly. This is the delay in GPU3: unlike CPUs, there is no unified set between ATi and nVidia yet, and the goal is to have a unified GPU client. What is the highest common CPU instruction set? SSSE3?


The new SMP movie will have SSE4 I think.


----------



## Blitz6804

Well that would suck; my laptop would not run it. (SSSE3 is the highest I have.)


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


*The new SMP movie* will have SSE4 I think.


 I'm definitely not going to see that one.


----------



## N2Gaming

I have no idea what smp movie is. So lost I am...


----------



## Blitz6804

I believe he meant "the new SMP _client_." BlackOmega made a joke at the mistype's expense.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Well that would suck; my laptop would not run it. (SSSE3 is the highest I have.)


It'll probably be able to run via older SSE instructions

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I'm definitely not going to see that one.











Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I have no idea what smp movie is. So lost I am...










Hahaha, it's called Tator being distracted.


----------



## N2Gaming

Awe and here I thought i was going to learn about some new high tech top secret upcomming PC stuff.









Thanks for uncofusing me.


----------



## BlackOmega

You know that movie would be boring as hell. Just a glob of protein bouncing around for hours.


----------



## Blitz6804

Hey, think my Barton can fold worth anything? It is running its stock 1.83 GHz on a clean install of XP that does not even have antivirus installed. In other news, I tried to start my desktop folding at the start of the fold-a-thon, but for some reason remote access is refusing to work (which sucks, since I can see and access files over the VPN). I will start its GPUs and my PS3 when I walk in the door. Right now, only my T7700 is SMP folding.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


but for some reason remote access is refusing to work (which sucks, since I can see and access files over the VPN).


Blitz, is this in reference to Windows RDP?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Hey, think my Barton can fold worth anything? It is running its stock 1.83 GHz on a clean install of XP that does not even have antivirus installed. In other news, I tried to start my desktop folding at the start of the fold-a-thon, but for some reason remote access is refusing to work (which sucks, since I can see and access files over the VPN). I will start its GPUs and my PS3 when I walk in the door. Right now, only my T7700 is SMP folding.


You should have been folding about 5 or more hours before the thon to get as many points entered for reaching higher million folding points durning the thon to unlock more prizes. ha ha not like the prizes are why we fold but it's an addeded incentive.


----------



## Blitz6804

N2Gaming: I had actually tried to start them before I left, but I ran out of time and had to run out the door. I figured "no big deal, I will just remote connect them and boot them up," but it is refusing to let me do so.

Thlnk3r: No, this is a program I use called "Anyplace Control." Works really well, better than the stock Windows software in my opinion, if for no other reason than I can run in a window rather than full screen and can use the computer on either end even if connected.


----------



## Tator Tot

Sadly I'm only crankin about 1500 PPD for this fold-a-thon.

I sold most of my GPU's, and my PS3 is down right now for [email protected] as I don't have the money to run it.

Hopefully once GPU3 [email protected] or GT300 drops I'll be able to crank more PPD. Not that my little PPD is bad, but more research is more research.

This is why I normally run all 3 clients (SMP/CPU [email protected], GPU2 [email protected], PS3 [email protected]) as SMP & PS3 [email protected] are the most needed right now because more people care about GPU2 because of the PPD.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Thlnk3r: No, this is a program I use called "Anyplace Control." Works really well, better than the stock Windows software in my opinion, if for no other reason than I can run in a window rather than full screen and can use the computer on either end even if connected.


Blitz, are you just trying to remote into a local desktop on your network at home?


----------



## Blitz6804

Trying to connect to my desktop (at home) from my laptop (at school). I usually have no issues with it, but today, it just refuses to work. That will happen sometimes.


----------



## N2Gaming

I keep locking up. Poor overclocking system or is that poor overcloking user.


----------



## OSDCrusher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I keep locking up. Poor overclocking system or is that poor overcloking user.


----------



## Blitz6804

Or dumb luck. What is your clock and testing method thereof?


----------



## OSDCrusher

Prime 95 is the best in my opinion.


----------



## N2Gaming

Well I was trying all kinds of things. My IE 6.xx kept crashing so I ran an update and installed like 13 + 3 more updates after the reboot. ATM I am at 3319MHz DDR1021 5.5.5.15.2T 255.3x13 HT & NB x9 while folding 4gpus 1smp/cpu running everest to monitor temps fahmon to monitor clients using outlook express and streaming live music Red Hot Chilli Pepers atm.


----------



## Blitz6804

I have had some stability issues when running Everest as of late. Try using CoreTemp or SpeedFan instead to see if the issue goes away. What sort of crash do you have? Endless loop? Hang? Blue screen? Also, try dropping your Hypertransport and Northbridge to 8x.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I have had some stability issues when running Everest as of late. Try using CoreTemp or SpeedFan instead to see if the issue goes away. What sort of crash do you have? Endless loop? Hang? Blue screen? Also, try dropping your Hypertransport and Northbridge to 8x.

yep I had it at 8 and moved it to 9 when I lowerd the OC. IDK I'm all over the place right now. I should have left my oc alone. It was folding just fine. Now I fubared up my max PPD for the thon. Oh well it's not the end of the world. I have blue screens, loops on frozen screens and complete reboots. The first thing that happened this morning was the system rebooted and when it posted I had the Destroyer Splash screnn w/all my bios settings defaulted. I think my CMOS battery may be dying.
Edit: this last overclock has my smp at 2550ppd and it's actually an underclock from my previouse overclocks but still a slight overclock.
Edit: I forgot to mention, I looked at my cpu settings and the ram was set to Ganged for some reason. So I changed it to unganged. I wonder if that is why it is folding faster now. Hmm....


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes, (un)ganged will have an effect on your PPD. If you are only running a single CPU client, ganged would be your best bet. If you want to run more than one client at a time, unganged will ensure the easiest RAM freedom for greatest PPD. At the very least, put your Hypertransport to 8x (2040) or better yet 7x (1785) and your Northbridge to 8x. For stability's sake, try increasing the Northbridge and Northbridge-CPU voltages a step each.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Yes, (un)ganged will have an effect on your PPD. If you are only running a single CPU client, ganged would be your best bet. If you want to run more than one client at a time, unganged will ensure the easiest RAM freedom for greatest PPD. At the very least, put your Hypertransport to 8x (2040) or better yet 7x (1785) and your Northbridge to 8x. For stability's sake, try increasing the Northbridge and Northbridge-CPU voltages a step each.


I think I have been struck by yet another virus or my last windows update screwed something up royally w/my internet expolrer. I keep getting all these tags 
in the text every time I try to quote some one and I am not able to do a few things in my User CP. I would adjust the NB if I could. Foxconn don't know how to fix my bios or don't care to. Either way my NB multi is stuck on 9x. I can adjust the HT though. So any way it has not froze for a while now "crosses fingers" and I'm thinking the last step down and switching to unganged made a big difference. I don't like to adjust my NB voltages from stock in fact I like to lower it from stock to decrease heat but ftm my NB voltage is stock 1.20v


----------



## Blitz6804

Try and see if K10Stat or AMD Overdrive can adjust your Northbridge. My motherboard lacks a Northbridge voltage, and I need to use K10Stat to adjust it.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Try and see if K10Stat or AMD Overdrive can adjust your Northbridge. My motherboard lacks a Northbridge voltage, and I need to use K10Stat to adjust it.


I don't think it does


----------



## Blitz6804

Thlnk3r: I found the problem. The brain trusts at Time Warner Cable decided to change my IP address unexpectedly. A non-matching IP address means no computer.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Yes, (un)ganged will have an effect on your PPD.

Blitz, how much of a difference in PPD do you get with the memory being in unganged mode versus ganged mode?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I think I have been struck by yet another virus or my last windows update screwed something up royally w/my internet expolrer. I keep getting all these tags
in the text every time I try to quote some one and I am not able to do a few things in my User CP.

N2Gaming, have you tried reinstalling Internet Explorer? Honestly I think you should just hose the drive and reinstall the OS. A clean install sounds like a good idea after being infected previously.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Thlnk3r: I found the problem. The brain trusts at Time Warner Cable decided to change my IP address unexpectedly. A non-matching IP address means no computer.

Blitz, yeah unless you have a static it's going to change eventually









Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

It has not changed in like three months, they sure picked a day to change it. I have just created a bookmark for my VPN IP address, we will see if that works tomorrow when I am in school to prevent this problem from happening again.

As to the PPD difference, I do not remember it. First thing after the Fold-a-thon (my first) I will check that for you. Right now, its getting pretty noisy in here, with two laptops, two leaf blowers (HD 4870x2s), and a PS3 all going full tilt.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, have you tried reinstalling Internet Explorer? Honestly I think you should just hose the drive and reinstall the OS. A clean install sounds like a good idea after being infected previously.

Well to be honest. I did a bone head move and all is good now. I changed the internet properties from medium to medium/high. Once I set it back to default browser defaults all returned to normal IE 6.xx wise. As long as it runs like it's suppose to then I'm just gonna keep updating/scaning for viruses and keep on keeping on. I'm so lazy to install every time I get a virus. I'm on OEM OS's as well so I don't know when I have to call M$ to validate my OS for another 3 validations and I'm in no hurry to do it again.

Edit: my bad, I am using IE 8 on this rig atm. Oops. I always jump to conclusions when ever my rig starts acting funny. I think I'll just chalk it up to my overclocks not cooperating w/my hardware.


----------



## Blitz6804

As long as you are not changing the motherboard (which would break the terms of the OEM License) you should not need to call to validate, it should work fine. (In theory.) What anti-virus program do you have installed on there? Perhaps it is time to try a new one if you keep getting virii?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
As long as you are not changing the motherboard (which would break the terms of the OEM License) you should not need to call to validate, it should work fine. (In theory.) What anti-virus program do you have installed on there? Perhaps it is time to try a new one if you keep getting virii?

I'm am using Avast. It seems to be pretty good to me for the most part. again I tend to jump to conclusions regarding viruses when ever my system acts up.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


It depends on the CPU and whatnot.

But the PPD Per Watt is in the GPU favor. 
But a 6 Core CPU could crank out more PPD than just say a GTX 260 or 9800GT. 
My CPU cranks out 1600PPD un touched.

Though, SMP uses Idle clocks, so on a 24/7 fold I only get around 1000 PPD from my CPU.

But a Core i9 @ 4.0Ghz is a PPD machine. (6 cores 12 threads, 6 SMP clients total on that machine to use all it's power.)


omg, 6 cores...
I didn't even know there was an i9!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


omg, 6 cores...
I didn't even know there was an i9!










Here have a look at this thread.


----------



## TheSandman

hmm i might throw the 939 into it at least till i get the X2 sold. Im gonna put the 3500 back into it, for what it does I dont need dual core for it now, and seeing how people want dual core 939 chips why not lol. But ill fold on her a little while


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I'm am using Avast. It seems to be pretty good to me for the most part. again I tend to jump to conclusions regarding viruses when ever my system acts up.


N2Gaming, avast is a great anti-virus program. I reviewed an article the other day that gave it a 99.8% detection rate against spyware. I've been using it for years. Sometimes I'll get 2-3 virus definition updates a day


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, avast is a great anti-virus program. I reviewed an article the other day that gave it a 99.8% detection rate against spyware. I've been using it for years. Sometimes I'll get 2-3 virus definition updates a day










Kind of makes me wonder how they can provide it for free. Oh wait they have Server/Entgerprise upgrades that cost money. OK so I answered my own question this time.


----------



## Blitz6804

So... in case you were curious, Bartons do not appear to fold well. After 2 hours, I do not yet even have 1% completion.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


So... in case you were curious, Bartons do not appear to fold well. After 2 hours, I do not yet even have 1% completion.


 But I'm sure your electric meter is working better now.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

My friends, I've finally managed to update our Club thread's first post to reflect our new Club officers.









Sorry for the long delay in getting that done.







But it's done.

Carry on.









EDIT: Make sure y'all take a gander at it. Some might have a laugh (I hope







).


----------



## thlnk3r

Thanks Joe









Welcome new Club Officers!


----------



## Blitz6804

N2Gaming is now officially ROFLicious! *Noms*

N2: My electric meter would likely take flight if it had a needle instead of a digital screen.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Sorry to hear about your loss Hue.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


But I'm glad you got in all the time you could man.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]*


My condolences to you and your family Hueristic.












Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Well Hue, you will be happy with me... I just signed up for my first foldathon!








































Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


two leaf blowers (HD 4870x2s),


























Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


But I'm sure your electric meter is working better now.


































Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Make sure y'all take a gander at it. Some might have a laugh (I hope







).











Quote:



# A.k.a. "Omega Supreme," BlackOmega: Opteron 180 @ 2.9 GHz (Club Enforcer)
# Sir Folds-a-Lot, Hueristic: Athlon64 3200+ @ 2.3 GHz (Club Veteran Guru)
# Driver of the Club Welcome Wagon, N2Gaming: Opteron 180 @ 2.4 GHz (Club Sandwich)






































:applaud :


----------



## Blitz6804

For those curious... I got my first percent on the Barton after 2 hours, 40 minutes. ETA of approximately 11 days. (Deadline is 14, so I should be okay. I hope.)

Fortunately for me, it is only 34Âº F outside, so a slight crack of the sliding door and the room will not get hot at all even with all the joules flying at me.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, have you tried reinstalling Internet Explorer? Honestly I think you should just hose the drive and reinstall the OS. A clean install sounds like a good idea after being infected previously.


 In the few rare instances that I actually did get a virus I reinstall. I've tried the whole quarantine thing and have actually found the root files of the virus and eradicated them, all of this to no avail. Even after it's gone, my rigs have never been right. I would get random crashes, loops, some applications wouldn't work right, some games wouldn't work at all, etc.

I've found, in the long run, it's actually less time consuming to reinstall than try to live with a system that's been breached.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


My friends, I've finally managed to update our Club thread's first post to reflect our new Club officers.









Sorry for the long delay in getting that done.







But it's done.

Carry on.









EDIT: Make sure y'all take a gander at it. Some might have a laugh (I hope







).


----------



## Blitz6804

It is official... the Barton is 205 PPD. This is about 1/5th of a PS3, 1/10th of an HD 4870, and 1/25th of an 8800 GTX.

For those of you not folding yet, no matter how minorly, please read this.


----------



## N2Gaming

Club Sandwich LOL I guess it's better than club doofis.







I'll have to go look at Club OP.

I had lost my DSL for a little over an hour so my clients were off line at 100% for that period loosing valuable folding time. I think next fold athon I will have a spare set of clients off line for just this type of scenario. I mean if I lose my internet and I can't grab any more work units then I'd be better off having a few more units to start crunching until I get back on line so that I don't loose PPD from lost internet connection.


----------



## Tator Tot

I request the position of Club off-topic poster


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Club Sandwich LOL I guess it's better than club doofis.







I'll have to go look at Club OP.

*I had lost my DSL for a little over an hour so my clients were off line at 100% for that period loosing valuable folding time.* I think next fold athon I will have a spare set of clients off line for just this type of scenario. I mean if I lose my internet and I can't grab any more work units then I'd be better off having a few more units to start crunching until I get back on line so that I don't loose PPD from lost internet connection.



That's not how it works bro. Your clients download a work packet and whatever resource you have associated with it will do the work. Once its done, it'll try to send the results and request a new work packet. If you're offline then it won't be able to send or receive any information and it'll just sit idle.

I am










Go ahead, make my day.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


That's not how it works bro. Your clients download a work packet and whatever resource you have associated with it will do the work. Once its done, it'll try to send the results and request a new work packet. If you're offline then it won't be able to send or receive any information and it'll just sit idle.


exactly. I guess I have to explain it differently.

OK so I'll have different folders w/different clients that have different protiens being worked on. So if and when my system goes offline and I can't upload my stats and grab more work units I would simply close the finished work units clients and start up the other protiens folder of differnt work units so that my machine will be folding non stop even w/out having to download any work units because I would have already started the different protiens and stopped them before the foldathon begun for this type of emergency. I can have as many folders on my computer w/as many different work units started. I know my GPU's can only do one unit each at a time but I can stop a work unit at say 75 to 99 percent and start another work unit from w/in a different directory of clients.

Does that make better sense. If not I'll try to explain it tomorrow when I am more awake.


----------



## Blitz6804

In other words, if for some reason you cannot upload your results, you will exit the client, swap out the 100% work folder for one downloaded prior at say, 25%, and then reopen the client to fold on that one. When your internet is back, you would upload the one that was 25%, download a new work unit, exit the client, swap the work folders again, upload the 100%, and then resume folding as normal.

Makes sense to me, but the problem is with deadlines. Many of the GPU units are only three days. SMP are three or six days. The only client this would really work with would be the CPU client, which is generally fourteen days.

For the record, every possible thing I have folding is folding, and I am getting a weighty 8400 PPD. ATi fail?


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


For the record, every possible thing I have folding is folding, and I am getting a weighty 8400 PPD. ATi fail?


Isn't it the folding client's fault rather than ATi's?
If the GPU3 client lives up to expectations, I promise I'll fold on my 5850.


----------



## thlnk3r

HothBase, good point. It does sound more like a software issue than hardware...


----------



## N2Gaming

Blits you almost hit the nail on the head w/that explanation. GPU's generally only take any where from 1-5 hours to complete a work unit so I could get several different [email protected] directories saved for the thon in the event I lose my internet for a duration lasting longer then one work unit. In any case, that is what I should have done. I thought about it before the thon but did not execute. Oh well so I lost a few PPD this thon. I'm still doing the best I have ever done in one rig. So I don't really have any complaints. If my electricity was free I could fold for EVGA during the non foldathons, this would allow me to earn EVGA bucks to put towards a better video card or set of cards. AT 15K PPD I could reach 1 million in 67days or two months+1week or so. So lets just say 3 months for safety sake. I could earn that $100.00 by the end of EVGA bonus bucks award period









Too bad I have to pay for my own PG&E.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


For those curious... I got my first percent on the Barton after 2 hours, 40 minutes. ETA of approximately 11 days. (Deadline is 14, so I should be okay. I hope.)

Fortunately for me, it is only 34Âº F outside, so a slight crack of the sliding door and the room will not get hot at all even with all the joules flying at me.


Yeah I had a K6 350 folding up to last sept. and it was getting... ready....7PPD!!!!

I don't feel a rig is cost effective if it's not pushing 1200ppd these days. The 3 I keep running average about 5k each. A new rig would push that all by itself.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


For those of you not folding yet, no matter how minorly, please read this.


I think I read that last year and funny I just checked the OP and nitteo states his uncle MAC has cancer and I just found out my Uncle Mac has it too. So both my mom and uncle have it and my little sister died of it as well as most of the people in my immediate family. So If nothing else I know what will get me!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Club Sandwich LOL I guess it's better than club doofis.







I'll have to go look at Club OP.

I had lost my DSL for a little over an hour so my clients were off line at 100% for that period loosing valuable folding time. I think next fold athon I will have a spare set of clients off line for just this type of scenario. I mean if I lose my internet and I can't grab any more work units then I'd be better off having a few more units to start crunching until I get back on line so that I don't loose PPD from lost internet connection.


Club Sandwich? I must have missed that? The WU gets marked when downloaded so If you dnload one then sav e it it will expire. But that will not matter for the Majority of WU's as you get 50% credit is it doesn't make the deadline and the same ones keep getting issued so The chance is it will still be a wu that is being issued and will help the dataset.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


...For the record, every possible thing I have folding is folding, and I am getting a weighty 8400 PPD. ATi fail?


MAN! you don't do anything half arsed do you! Got the toaster pushing PPD too?









Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


...Too bad I have to pay for my own PG&E.










You and me both buddy only it's national grid here.


----------



## Blitz6804

Not at all Hue, if I am going to do something, I do it full tilt or not at all. I would fold on my toaster oven if I could. I am still upset I cannot use the fourth HD 4870 for folding. Any ideas Hue? (FoldingForum thread)


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Not at all Hue, if I am going to do something, I do it full tilt or not at all. I would fold on my toaster oven if I could. I am still upset I cannot use the fourth HD 4870 for folding. Any ideas Hue? (FoldingForum thread)


Unfortunately no, I don't have multi gpu mobo's and don't use ATI anymore. If I still gamed I would though!


----------



## Blitz6804

How is this for sad... since the foldathon has stated, I have increased my lifetime career folding points by 14%... I think I need to fold more often.

Also, folding appears to be an effective (but likely inefficient) heat source. Despite being 32Âº F and snowing last night, when I got home from bowling my apartment was up to 70Âº F. My heater is set to 58Âº F.


----------



## Tator Tot

Blitz I live in my nice cozy 20*C basement for the winter. But if I just SMP fold & leave my CRT's on it goes up to 24*C


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


But if I just SMP fold & leave my CRT's on it goes up to 24*C


Tator, cheap inexpensive heating system. I wonder how the power draw from your CRT compares a normal household heater


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator, cheap inexpensive heating system. I wonder how the power draw from your CRT compares a normal household heater










I'm not sure, but I know they exhaust about 30*C air from the back.

Yes, my monitors have fans in them to exhaust air.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Yes, my monitors have fans in them to exhaust air.


Tator, are you serious? Wow dude...do you have pictures of this?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator, are you serious? Wow dude...do you have pictures of this?










I would have to crack these open as you can't see. They just have vented backs on them. 
But you can definitely feel airflow coming from them.


----------



## Blitz6804

Ah, the good old days of CRTs. I remember my 22" one, that sucker was hot. Right now inside my apartment it is 19Âº C, but the sliding door and a window are open, where I am getting a cross breeze of 4Âº C air. I have to have door and window open, or it starts getting too warm in here.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Oh, to have Blitzy the Snowman ambients...

*(Sighs in joyful reverie)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


I would have to crack these open as you can't see. They just have vented backs on them. 
But you can definitely feel airflow coming from them.


Tator, ahhh ok I thought you modded your CRT screen


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Oh, to have Blitzy the Snowman ambients...

*(Sighs in joyful reverie)


Let October finish and I will officially import my hand woven 100% Canadian winter coat. (Yes made out of 100% authentic Canadians)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator, ahhh ok I thought you modded your CRT screen


















nope they realized these bad boys needed some cooling power.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Tator, you wear your Canadian winter coat; I'll don my big black leather trenchcoat.

Oh yeah...


----------



## Blitz6804

Txtmstrjoe: Let me tell you, when the wind stars going, that leather coat wont get you far. There are some days you need not one, but TWO trench coats just to be able to walk outside. Speaking of which... when you going to visit me? I am officially inviting you and your love to come visit the Falls, they are beautiful this time of year. (Especially when they start to freeze.)


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Txtmstrjoe: *Let me tell you, when the wind stars going, that leather coat wont get you far. There are some days you need not one, but TWO trench coats just to be able to walk outside.* Speaking of which... when you going to visit me? I am officially inviting you and your love to come visit the Falls, they are beautiful this time of year. (Especially when they start to freeze.)


 You New Yorkers must be getting soft







. Hell I go outside in just an insulated flannel lumber jack lookin shirt when it's 0*C. Back in the olden days I used to go to bars when it was just 10*F out in a t-shirt.









I only use an Navy Pea coat now. Well its Eddie Bauer, but its a pea coat none the less.


----------



## thlnk3r

Speaking of weather today has been 90+ and I left my machine on at home


----------



## Blitz6804

BlackOmega: I used to be in shorts by 50Âº F... then I got older. Since I have lived in Buffalo, we have gotten one week each January where the temperature did not break 10Âº F all day (for a week straight) and night time temperatures were sub-0Âº F with windchills pushing -40Âº. Granted, HothBase probably thinks us candy butts; Scandinavia can be a touch colder than that. ("Touch" being used sarcastically here.)


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey guys. I was wondering if I push my FSB to far would it cause CMOS settings to reset to factory defaults?

I pulled my battery and it measures 3.09 Volts so I know it's not the battery. I have been trying to tweek my x4 940 in the Foxconn Destoyer most of the morning and can't seem to get any fsb past 260 or so. I was able to post w/my ram at DDR1100 5.5.5.15.2T but it was not stable enough to run P95 for more then a few seconds w/out all the cores crashing almost instantly.









Any way I have never experienced a bad overclock to cause the CMOS settings to be reset to factory defaults.

Do you think my mobo may be bad or I just have a poor overclocking mobo?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hey guys. I was wondering if I push my FSB to far would it cause CMOS settings to reset to factory defaults?

Any way I have never experienced a bad overclock to cause the CMOS settings to be reset to factory defaults.


N2Gaming, this has happened to me quite a bit. All though my DFI board never experienced the above. My GA boards and my old Asus A8N-SLI did this.

Hope that helps


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, this has happened to me quite a bit. All though my DFI board never experienced the above. My GA boards and my old Asus A8N-SLI did this.

Hope that helps










It does thank you. It's just frustrating. I have been at it for a while now and about to throw in the towel. :swearing:







>--cursing---(>")>---throwing my mobo at a wall... :swearing:
I don't remember this happening before trying to use a moded bios but then again my Memory is poor as is...


----------



## N2Gaming

Sorry for the double post but I forgot some thing.

How about the FSB not running in windows per the bios settings. I set the FSB in the bios to 256 and in windows I get 255.3 FSB in both everest and CPUZ and just in case it makes a difference I am using a half multipllier of 12.5 x 256


----------



## Blitz6804

That is perfectly normal N2Gaming. The OS and the BIOS can differ by as much as 2 MHz in my experience.


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks blitz. I was actually considering a fresh clean install once and for all just to see if a clean install would correct the problem. It never use to do this. I mean my BIOS FSB OC's would be in sink w/the OS but that has changed. Maybe a clean install is in order after all. I am getting other problems w/directories having issues as well. Like when I start up MS word after all the OC issues I got a message that the Normal file is missing would I like to run a search for it. Then it could not find it. So maybe a clean install will put these problems to rest. If the OCability does not change after a fresh OS install then I'm gonna blame it on the mobo.

I mean I get some artifacting lines when I save the bios and when I go to boot into windows I get a line in the upper top corner every time. I have had this line for a long time now. It is there with different CPU's and different video cards. I don't recal if it is there w/different ram but I don't think it't the ram but I will test this out to make sure it's not the ram.

I'll keep you all posted w/what I find out.

Edit: Oh and that line is there even if my BIOS settings are all set to bone stock speeds.


----------



## Blitz6804

The OS might be a problem with the Normal.dot in mind. On the other hand, the OS / BIOS disharmony will be the motherboard's fault. My Gigabyte varied from XP by up to 2 MHz either way depending what the HTT is.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I know this is completely off topic here guys, but if there's ANY good mechanics among us...please let me know immediately







.


----------



## Hueristic

Ask your question Pio, BO is a mechanic and I've rebuilt cars for years.

N2 does your bios have Bootgaurd? Run a chkdsk. And give Glary utility's a try if you get a chance. nice programs there.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I know this is completely off topic here guys, but if there's ANY good mechanics among us...please let me know immediately







.


 What's up Pio? I'm sure between me, Hue and TestE we should be able to figure out relatively easily what your issue might be.

Hey Hue









N2, I personally have never considered Foxconn to be a good mobo manufacturer. Although, they do release a surprise from time to time. But even their 939 boards don't OC very well. Also, couple of things came to mind as I was readin your posts. What is the speed your RAM is rated for? And does the board automatically lock your PCI(e) slots or do they get overclocked as well?

I'm still kind of leaning towards the RAM though, I know once your RAM OC goes bad the OS starts doing some pretty strange stuff. Whether it corrupts it or not is a matter of time, namely how long it was at the unstable OC.

Good Luck


----------



## pioneerisloud

Ok, so to start off....

I've got a 1991 Buick Regal LTD with a 3.8L V6. Just checked my coil packs, and they have the proper resistance. Replaced plugs and wires about a month ago. Currently, I have absolutely no spark. I have fuel...just no spark. The car's been hesitating really badly for a few months since I had the bottom harmonic balancer replaced (Crankshaft positioning sensor was NOT replaced, and is inside the balancer). When the car died, it was running AMAZING...like a brand new car, no hesitation like it had before. And then it just died like it ran out of gas or something, and will not start now.

The car is getting fuel, it's getting air. What would be the first place to check? The crankshaft positioning sensor? Cam sensor? If you guys have IM clients, please add me and talk in real time (much easier). Pioneerisloud on any messenger.


----------



## Enigma8750

have you guys seen the NEW 939 mobo with the 785 graphics chip from ASRock



















Named 939A785GMH128M comes in micro ATX form.It features Radeon HD 4200 and onboard 128MB memory.It offers four DDR-400 memory slots,one PCI-Express X1 slot with support for Hybrid CrossFireX.


----------



## dlee7283

I guess its a good board if your old one goes out and u dont want to invest in high DDR2 prices and are fine on a dual core...

these will sell good on Newegg though, the novelty factor alone will do it.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I mean I get some artifacting lines when I save the bios and when I go to boot into windows I get a line in the upper top corner every time. I have had this line for a long time now. It is there with different CPU's and different video cards.


N2Gaming, almost sounds like your display is at fault there. Could be some wacky refresh rate in the bios? eh I might be taking it too far though. What refresh rate do you run in Windows?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Replaced plugs and wires about a month ago. Currently, I have absolutely no spark. I have fuel...just no spark.


Pioneerisloud, no spark almost sounds like a dodgy distributor. Did you replace the cap at all? Take it off and check the points. They all could be shot. That's the first thing that comes to mind. BO should have a better estimate for you









Enigma8750, thank you for posting that. Really cool idea from ASRock hehe

Good luck guys


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, almost sounds like your display is at fault there. Could be some wacky refresh rate in the bios? eh I might be taking it too far though. What refresh rate do you run in Windows?

Pioneerisloud, no spark almost sounds like a dodgy distributor. Did you replace the cap at all? Take it off and check the points. They all could be shot. That's the first thing that comes to mind. BO should have a better estimate for you









Enigma8750, thank you for posting that. Really cool idea from ASRock hehe

Good luck guys


Talking with BO and Teste in steam right now about it. And there is no distributer, its a coil-pack system.

And that board looks like it would be PERFECT for HTPC use if you have a 939 dual core and some DDR1 layin around!!! I want 2 of those!!!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Talking with BO and Teste in steam right now about it. And there is no distributer, its a coil-pack system.


Pioneerisloud, ahhh thanks for clarifying









Hope you get everything resolved in a timely manner.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Enigma8750*












 I just noticed the cooler bracket isn't held on by 2 screws, but rather 4 ....push pins probably. I wonder how well that works.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I just noticed the cooler bracket isn't held on by 2 screws, but rather 4 ....push pins probably. I wonder how well that works.


I'm wondering how similar that 4 screw setup is to AM2+ / AM3....I wonder if a bolt through cooler would work on that...if it fits AM2+ / AM3???


----------



## BlackOmega

Now that I look at it some more, it also looks like its slightly offset as well. Still, would make for a great HTPC. Might just have to build one.


----------



## N2Gaming

Sorry it took me so long to reply to you all. I just finished installing my OS again on a different HDD to see if it makes any difference. I'm still in the final stages of getting it fined tuned w/all the drivers and what not. I'm not even going to install any games. I'm just doing this for mobo/hardware Diagnostic purposes 
Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


N2 does your bios have Bootgaurd? Run a chkdsk. And give Glary utility's a try if you get a chance. nice programs there.


I don't know what that is but it does have a feature to disalble any bios flashing until you go back into the bios and enable bios flashing. This prevents hackers from flashing the bios from w/in a windows envirionment.
Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


N2, I personally have never considered Foxconn to be a good mobo manufacturer. Although, they do release a surprise from time to time. But even their 939 boards don't OC very well. Also, couple of things came to mind as I was readin your posts. What is the speed your RAM is rated for? And does the board automatically lock your PCI(e) slots or do they get overclocked as well?

I'm still kind of leaning towards the RAM though, I know once your RAM OC goes bad the OS starts doing some pretty strange stuff. Whether it corrupts it or not is a matter of time, namely how long it was at the unstable OC.










Well I have several different sets. The set I was using was my sig set of Corsair DDR1066. I was able to get it to DDR1100







but not P95 stable. I put some OCZ DDR800 in the mobo for some more testing. I have only been able to get it up to DDR926 in the past.

Regarding the PCIe clock, my mobo locks the PCIe bus to what ever you set it to and also has another feature that auto detects your pci busses so that if you don't have any expantion cards in any of the pci/e slots then those busses are shut down to conserve energy and heat.









I willl start off w/a slow overclock this time to make sure my ram is not an issue...

Sorry to hear the news Pio. Hopefully you get it going soon.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Enigma8750*


have you guys seen the NEW 939 mobo with the 785 graphics chip from ASRock


 Yep, but when is it due to hit the stores here in the USA?
Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, almost sounds like your display is at fault there. Could be some wacky refresh rate in the bios? eh I might be taking it too far though. What refresh rate do you run in Windows?


I forgot to mention I get two different types of lines. in the bios screen when I save the bios I get a horazontal line. Then when I'm booting to my OS I get a virticle line.

I took all my video cards out earlier before running the clean install and I put a dggerent GPU in. I used one of my XGX 8600GTS 512MB cards and put in different ram to make sure that those hardware types could not be to blame... I run my refresh rate at 60Hrtz I don't know what it is but I'm thinking there is some type of mobo issue. So this is the reason for reinstall.

I will continue my testing w/swopping out my hardware and what not to make sure that my intuition is correct. The video lines started a long time ago and I was having all kinds of Artifacting while running crysis.

Oh my service pack and video drive are finished loading time for a restart.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I took all my video cards out earlier before running the clean install and I put a dggerent GPU in. I used one of my XGX 8600GTS 512MB cards and put in different ram to make sure that those hardware types could not be to blame... I run my refresh rate at 60Hrtz I don't know what it is but I'm thinking there is some type of mobo issue. So this is the reason for reinstall.


N2Gaming, do you have another display device you could test with? Maybe a older CRT monitor?


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I'm wondering how similar that 4 screw setup is to AM2+ / AM3....I wonder if a bolt through cooler would work on that...if it fits AM2+ / AM3???


Appears to be similar if not the same to me. 
Would make sense since they along with everyone else had stopped making 939 stuff earlier and just using parts they are currently making/using except for what would make it a 939.

Let me know if one of you decides to get one and see how it does - I'd probrably be game to OC it if it's any good at all.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Appears to be similar if not the same to me. 
Would make sense since they along with everyone else had stopped making 939 stuff earlier and just using parts they are currently making/using except for what would make it a 939.

Let me know if one of you decides to get one and see how it does - I'd probrably be game to OC it if it's any good at all.


If you look around the net, it was able to take a Sempron up to 250 Reference Clock. And that was on a review site (I forget which one). So in all actuality, I would imagine it would go at least a little higher.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, do you have another display device you could test with? Maybe a older CRT monitor?

Yes I have a Viewsonic 17" CRT and a 19" Visonic LCD that I could test it on. For now I'm gonna test out the overclocking ability and see how well the FSB sinks up between the Bios setting and windows actual spd...


----------



## Blitz6804

Regards the push pins: mine and thlnk3r's Gigabyte GA-K8NSC-939s used two push pins to hold the socket retention bracket on. They worked well enough and were very easy to remove to install instead the bolt-through mechanism of my Zalman CNPS9500LED.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I'm wondering how similar that 4 screw setup is to AM2+ / AM3....I wonder if a bolt through cooler would work on that...if it fits AM2+ / AM3???


It looks kind of similar, but maybe a bit more "Square."

Anyway, I hope the buick gets sorted out. What's happening with your 'yota?


----------



## Blitz6804

As far as I remember, both Celicas were sold to make ends meet.


----------



## nategr8ns

damn


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


damn










 Cars come and go. Not to mention there is always a better one when you get better finacial situations.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Cars come and go. Not to mention there is always a better one when you get better finacial situations.










Exactly my thoughts







. It sucked to let them go though, lol.


----------



## nategr8ns

Well you can always go the subaru way







. Get a sleeper legacy and do an STI drivetrain swap into it, or a JDM twin-turbo swap, those are sick.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Exactly my thoughts







. It sucked to let them go though, lol.

Yeah using that type common sense mixed w/rational thinking is the only way I was able to keep from beating my self up when I had to sell my tricked out/modded 92 Kawi SX550 ski, 01 YZ250 (Green Sticker 2/strk) and my wht/blue 07 YFZ450 Special Edition toys but hey I reduced my 40k+ debt to nothing by selling those oh yeah I also sold my 98 Regal GS to my GF who was driving it to the ground any way (I'm not to sad about that sale but my toys kind of hurt) Any way good times will come again. They always do sooner or later. Stay possative and hang in there for us.


----------



## Blitz6804

Exciting news for you all. I just received my Office Max circular. Windows 7 pricing is:

Home Premium upgrade: $120 (full = $200)
Professional upgrade: $200 (full = $300)
Ultimate upgrade: $220 (full = $320)

and the exciting part:

Home Professional upgrade for THREE computers: $150

This means that if you are buying for three computers, you save 58% off retail price. (3x $120 = $360; $360 - $150 = $210; $210 / $360 = 0.583)


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey guys I just had a good 10-15min of explaining typed up in this thread and I went add a picture w/my mouse and hit a side button on my mouse by accident and it turned out the be a browser back button. :swearing: I guess I should remap that button after this so I don't have that mishap ever again.

Any way So I told you all that I would report my FSB Overclock sinkability w/my new OS install.

Here is what I have found out.

Any overclock beyond a nice round number ending in a zero will exibit FSB speeds of up to just under 2MHz less then what I have it set to in the BIOS but if I use a nice round number like 220 or 250 then the BIOS FSB settings sink up nicely w/Windows for a true or same FSB. I am testing 250x13 w/the OCZ DDR2-800 2x1G kit at DDR2-1000 5.5.5.15. 2T and so far I am P95 stable for a half hour now.







My CPU is not running to fast atm. I am trying to find my mobo FSB limit or my rams limit. I'm thinking the mobo will limit out before the ram but then again this is why we bench test. I will try to push FSB speeds beyond 260 again to see if in fact it is the mobo and if I can't post past 260 again then I will increase my Chipset voltage a notch or two to see what happens. If I am not lucky w/that then I will call it good and end my mobo FSB tests.

Here is a shot of my current testing.

Edit: just incase your wondering. The cache/ram benchmark was done while P95 was running so that is why the latencies are poor...


----------



## Tator Tot

N2, Most budget (780G/GF8200) boards will hit a limit around 250HT Clock. 
The midrange stuff (790GX/750a/780a/980a) will hit around 275HT Clock as an upper limit
The High End (790FX/790X) will go up to 300HT Clock + depending on who makes the board.

EDIT: These numbers are chip-reliant as well.


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks Tator, I will then have to test w/one of my X2 5400 BE+ chips again to verify I don't have a chip issue or do you mean Chipset chip varriant? I think I have had this thing up to 270+or even 280+ if I remeber correctly but then again that could have been on one of my M2N32 mobo's. Sucks when you can't remember these thing.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thanks Tator, I will then have to test w/one of my X2 5400 BE+ chips again to verify I don't have a chip issue or do you mean Chipset chip variant? I think I have had this thing up to 270+or even 280+ if I remeber correctly but then again that could have been on one of my M2N32 mobo's. Sucks when you can't remember these thing.


I mean the CPU.

But it also does rely on Mature BIOS sometimes. (As early production M4A79T-Dlx boards BIOS were ****e for HT overclocking.)


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


I mean the CPU.

But it also does rely on Mature BIOS sometimes. (As early production M4A79T-Dlx boards BIOS were ****e for HT overclocking.)


Thanks. I'm running P13 bios atm and have the P16 on the other primary BIOS chip. I think I need to reflash it though. The primary bios chip will boot up and run in windows just fine but I don't trust that flash atm.

Edit: the primary bios chip was flashed to P16 from w/in windows using the Foxconn bios flashing tool. Foxconn told me that it is best to flash from in the bios and not in windows...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hey guys I just had a good 10-15min of explaining typed up in this thread and I went add a picture w/my mouse and hit a side button on my mouse by accident and it turned out the be a browser back button.


N2Gaming, ug that has happened to me so many times. It's pretty annoying hehe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


N2, Most budget (780G/GF8200) boards will hit a limit around 250HT Clock. 
The midrange stuff (790GX/750a/780a/980a) will hit around 275HT Clock as an upper limit
The High End (790FX/790X) will go up to 300HT Clock + depending on who makes the board.

EDIT: These numbers are chip-reliant as well.


Tator, good info. I was not aware of some of that


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Edit: the primary bios chip was flashed to P16 from w/in windows using the Foxconn bios flashing tool. Foxconn told me that it is best to flash from in the bios and not in windows...


I've flashed my Foxxy boards from Windows plenty of times no problem. Though, BIOS is always the safest way to flash.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator, good info. I was not aware of some of that










I've owned a number of boards since AM2 dropped, AMD's setup quite intrigued me since FSB got boring.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, ug that has happened to me so many times. It's pretty annoying hehe

Thanks you just reminded me to remap that button. I set it up for precission speed booster. I now can click one side button for a different dpi and then hit the other for a slower mouse movement. Perfect for head shots.







I was never able to get the dpi thing to work in COD4 though. I may be more lucky this time around. We shall see. at least now when I accidetally hit any of the two side buttons on the mouse it won't loose any of the text I put lots of brain power into.







I can't say the same for when I try to type to fast and my fingers wonder onto other keys that have been known to do the same thing "loose all my work"

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
I've flashed my Foxxy boards from Windows plenty of times no problem. Though, BIOS is always the safest way to flash.

Thanks. Yeah I flashed it a couple of times from the foxconn windows tool and the date always comes out weird. It still works just fine but I'm not sure if that bios is good. I'll reflash it before using it again. Should I delete all my 8 profiles in the bios before flashing or is it not a requirement. Some of those profiles are for the P13 bios on the back up bios chip and some are for the P16 Primary BIOS chip.


----------



## Blitz6804

N2Gaming: If ever you accidentally hit back, hit forward, click into the text box in which you were typing, and press control-Z. About 65% of the time, the post comes back.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


N2Gaming: If ever you accidentally hit back, hit forward, click into the text box in which you were typing, and press control-Z. About 65% of the time, the post comes back.


Hmm. I wish it were that easy. I just tested your solution and it was a no go for me. I typed test in the text box clicked on the back button followed by the forward button then clicked my mouse pointer in the text box to place my curser :swearing:...







back in the text box followed by Cntl & Z. No luck for me. I am zero out of 2 tries.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I now can *click one side button for a different dpi and then hit the other for a slower mouse movement. Perfect for head shots. *










 No offense bud, but if you've got enough time to click that button for headshots, in the games that I play, you'd already be dead. 
Ideally, you set your sensitivity up to the point where that is not necessary.

Although, I do double zoom in CS/S with the AWP to blow people's heads' off.

EDIT: Hey if any of you guys are looking for an almost complete 939 rig for REALLY cheap, look here.


----------



## Blitz6804

In all fairness BlackOmega... if I have the time to move my mouse in the average FPS nowadays, my competition must be asleep at the switch. I miss the good old days of Wolfenstein3d. You know, back when I did not suck.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Hey guys I just had a good 10-15min of explaining typed up in this thread and I went add a picture w/my mouse and hit a side button on my mouse by accident and it turned out the be a browser back button. :swearing: I guess I should remap that button after this so I don't have that mishap ever again.

I don't know what browser you're using but I love my Firefox when this happens. If I accidently hit the back button, the text I've written is still there if I hit forward. I'm using Firefox 3.5.4 by the way.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
No offense bud, but if you've got enough time to click that button for headshots, in the games that I play, you'd already be dead.
Ideally, you set your sensitivity up to the point where that is not necessary.

Well I like to be able to set up in a prone position tucked away to not be seen and then have it all set up so all I have to do is look through my already dpi's/slowed down movements for head shots. I'm not to good at CSS any way so you won't see me playing it that much...

Thanks Hoth I'll have to keep firefox in mind.


----------



## AMOCO

can anyone tell me why my cpu core 1 is more than core 0?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMOCO*


can anyone tell me why my cpu core 1 is more than core 0?


What do you mean? Hotter, or higher clocked?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


...Despite being 32Âº F and snowing last night, when I got home from bowling my apartment was up to 70Âº F. My heater is set to 58Âº F.


That Nor-easter just went below me.







Dodged the snow, man I'm not ready for snow yet! And yeah all wintwer my rigs keep my living nice and toasty.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hey guys I just had a good 10-15min of explaining typed up in this thread and I went add a picture w/my mouse and hit a side button on my mouse by accident and it turned out the be a browser back button. :swearing: ...



Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, ug that has happened to me so many times. It's pretty annoying hehe



Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


I don't know what browser you're using but I love my Firefox when this happens. If I accidently hit the back button, the text I've written is still there if I hit forward. I'm using Firefox 3.5.4 by the way.










Must be auto for 3.5.4

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


N2Gaming: If ever you accidentally hit back, hit forward, click into the text box in which you were typing, and press control-Z. About 65% of the time, the post comes back.


Nice trick, works for me in FF 3.5.3

N2, I have been using greasemonkey script and it saves everything I type. I even had a bsoD AND AFTER REBOOT MY TEXT WAS THERE! GRR, caps lock.







Need u button to highlight blocks and change case to lower case. I'm to lazy to retype.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


I don't know what browser you're using but I love my Firefox when this happens. If I accidently hit the back button, the text I've written is still there if I hit forward. I'm using Firefox 3.5.4 by the way.










im upgrading to 3.5.4 right now because of this post









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Nice trick, works for me in FF 3.5.3

N2, I have been using greasemonkey script and it saves everything I type. I even had a bsoD AND AFTER REBOOT MY TEXT WAS THERE! GRR, caps lock.







Need u button to highlight blocks and change case to lower case. I'm to lazy to retype.










I didn't know you could CTRL-z, I'll try it sometime. I also agree that we need an all-caps toggle built into the forums







.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


In all fairness BlackOmega... if I have the time to move my mouse in the average FPS nowadays, my competition must be asleep at the switch. I miss the good old days of Wolfenstein3d. You know, back when I did not suck.


 I hear ya. Yeah the competition is rather good these days. The only that saves me in most FPS's is my habits that I picked up from quake 2 & 3. Run around like you're paranoid.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Well I like to be able to set up in a prone position tucked away to not be seen and then have it all set up so all I have to do is look through my already dpi's/slowed down movements for head shots. I'm not to good at CSS any way so you won't see me playing it that much...

Thanks Hoth I'll have to keep firefox in mind.


 Ahh, COD and such. Yeah I suppose in those games you have enough time to do that, especially if you're camped out sniping. 
As for CSS, since the last patch they released I haven't been playing much of it either. They totally screwed it up. Hitboxes are horrible now, the recoil is extremely unpredicatable, not to mention VERY unrealistic. They basically made it simulate a spazzed out meth junkie running around with a gun.









In regards to Firefox, definitely get it. It's a million times better than IE. Not to mention the cool addons they have. Like ad-block, ghostery which tells you what trackers are monitoring you and even a skin changer.

And a little update with me, FINALLY got RAID working on my AM3. Although, I am a little disappointed with the figures. All of my 939 controllers (Nvidia, SiL, ULi) were better. While it doesn't quite double the throughput, it definitely get close. All of my 939 controllers would over double the throughput.

As for my impressions with AM3, while it is a little faster than my 939, it's not leaps and bounds faster. Perhaps it has to do with the 32bit OS. 
What I have noticed though, is that it seems that most of my games run a lot smoother. Even when I only had 1GB of RAM it was still fast and didn't stutter at all.
Still haven't dabbled with OCing it as I need to make a retention bracket for one of my coolers. Although that stock one isn't doing that bad. The highest temps I've seen - 41*C (coretemp). Not bad I'd say.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


N2, I have been using greasemonkey script and it saves everything I type. I even had a bsoD AND AFTER REBOOT MY TEXT WAS THERE! GRR, caps lock.







Need u button to highlight blocks and change case to lower case. I'm to lazy to retype.










greasemonkey that sounds like my second name at times


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
im upgrading to 3.5.4 right now because of this post









Did it make a difference?
I decided to do some testing and found out that the text was automatically restored in Internet Explorer and Chrome as well as in Firefox, so it might actually be a Windows 7 feature since I'm using the 7100 RC...


----------



## nategr8ns

Nope it didn't make a difference, but CTRL-Z does work


----------



## OSDCrusher

UPDATE:
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=776412


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OSDCrusher*


UPDATE:
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=776412


 Nice. With a little bit more voltage you should be able to get more out of her.

Out of curiosity, which DFI board are you running it on?


----------



## Blitz6804

DFI LanParty UT nF4 Ultra-D I believe.

OSDCrusher: the validation I had for you is 2650 MHz, you want to downgrade?


----------



## Hueristic

Boy, Id hate to be a Tennessee Titans fan right about now!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
And a little update with me, FINALLY got RAID working on my AM3. Although, I am a little disappointed with the figures. All of my 939 controllers (Nvidia, SiL, ULi) were better. While it doesn't quite double the throughput, it definitely get close. All of my 939 controllers would over double the throughput.

BlackOmega, can you post up the results for us? Is this the onboard controller or discrete? What stripe size did you use?

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Boy, Id hate to be a Tennessee Titans fan right about now!


I did not hear about it did they lose or get a major injury? The Raiders finally won a game and the Vikings just won by the skin of their teeth. Shoot That game makes Bret on top of all time for 75 wins as a starting QB.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, can you post up the results for us? Is this the onboard controller or discrete? What stripe size did you use?

Good luck


 I used the onboard controller, however I had to use AMD's drivers because MSI's were corrupt. I used the 64KB stripe IIRC.

Here's a screenshot.









I just glanced over some of the ULi results and the average I guess wasn't that much lower. 102.6MB/s (GD70) vs 105.x MB/s(ULi). Although, the burst speed is almost 100MB/s slower than the ULi.

I also noticed that my CPU utilization is much higher with this new getup. 8% vs 2% using ULi.


----------



## Blitz6804

N2Gaming: The score was New England Patriots (my team) 59, Titans 0.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I did not hear about it did they lose or get a major injury? The Raiders finally won a game and the Vikings just won by the skin of their teeth. Shoot That game makes Bret on top of all time for 75 wins as a starting QB.










Was 52-0 in the 3rdQ when I flipped to the Jets/Buff.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I used the onboard controller, however I had to use AMD's drivers because MSI's were corrupt. I used the 64KB stripe IIRC.

Here's a screenshot.

I just glanced over some of the ULi results and the average I guess wasn't that much lower. 102.6MB/s (GD70) vs 105.x MB/s(ULi). Although, the burst speed is almost 100MB/s slower than the ULi.

I also noticed that my CPU utilization is much higher with this new getup. 8% vs 2% using ULi.


I would suggest you using a 256KB stripe. Also, the ULi is a better controller overall, even though it's older, it's a dedicated RAID controller, which IIRC had it's own cache system.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


I would suggest you using a 256KB stripe. Also, the ULi is a better controller overall, even though it's older, it's a dedicated RAID controller, which IIRC had it's own cache system.


 The largest stripe that was available was 128kb.







I'm 99.9% positive I went with the 64kb stripe just to evaluate the difference between old and new.

And to tell you honestly, the ULi did the worst of my 939's. Nvidia did the best, followed closely but Silicon Image. And the the Sil was only SATA I.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


The largest stripe that was available was 128kb.







I'm 99.9% positive I went with the 64kb stripe just to evaluate the difference between old and new.

And to tell you honestly, the ULi did the worst of my 939's. Nvidia did the best, followed closely but Silicon Image. And the the Sil was only SATA I.


Probably shoulda gone with 128KB stripe then.

nVidia's newer RAID functions are pretty bad for the most part. THe SiL & ULi probably had cache on them, which makes all the difference in RAID performance.

To bad boards don't use them any more, its either the Chipset one, or a stupid Jmicron turd.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Was 52-0 in the 3rdQ when I flipped to the Jets/Buff.


Ouch...









Edit:did not see your post blitz... Double outch
Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


N2Gaming: The score was New England Patriots (my team) 59, Titans 0.


----------



## OSDCrusher

Yeah, I watched the Pats game, it was awesome :Thumb:

ANOTHER UPDATE:http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=776774


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Probably shoulda gone with 128KB stripe then.

nVidia's newer RAID functions are pretty bad for the most part. THe SiL & ULi probably had cache on them, which makes all the difference in RAID performance.

*To bad boards don't use them any more,* its either the Chipset one, or a stupid Jmicron turd.


 Figures. Maybe I'll look into one of those Perc controllers, then maybe I'll get some (veloci)raptors to go along with it.


----------



## Blitz6804

Tator Tot: Do you have any testing experience with SAS drives? If so, is it worth the extra outlay over normal SATA drives / controllers?

OSDCrusher: Congrats, that is a nice looking clock, and I will update the off-site roster in the near future.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Figures. Maybe I'll look into one of those Perc controllers, then maybe I'll get some (veloci)raptors to go along with it.









Go for the PERC 6/i.

When Burrito sells them on here it's $109 shipped w/ BBU (battery backup unit.)

Go to Fleabay for cables.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Tator Tot: Do you have any testing experience with SAS drives? If so, is it worth the extra outlay over normal SATA drives / controllers?

SAS Drives have near instant access times, and are incredibly fast, combine 3 15K Fujitsu's in RAID 0 and instant on is no problem.

Though, the cost is the major downside. little space for a high cost.

And as an FYI, drives don't need more than 16MB of cache currently, the excess cache is to make a drive look pretty, doesn't help performance.

This is why most SAS drives have only 16MB of Cache.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OSDCrusher*


ANOTHER UPDATE:http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=776774


OSDCrusher, I updated the roster with your new overclock. Great job









Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Maybe I'll look into one of those Perc controllers, then maybe I'll get some (veloci)raptors to go along with it.


BlackOmega, you'll also probably see little to no cpu usage with a discrete card.

What's wrong with your average read numbers? They look pretty good to me.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Though, the cost is the major downside. little space for a high cost.


Tator, the biggest I'm capable of getting in 15K form is 450GB. It's a weird number I know hehe. Most of our build-outs at work we go with the 300GB 15K drives. Tator Question: Now I know SAS drives are basically sata drives but with SCSI commands...is it really worth running those on a regular desktop? Obviously the spindle speed is nice but do the scsi commands offer any benefit at all (games, checking email, ms office ect)?

Thanks and good luck!


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AMOCO* 
can anyone tell me why my cpu core 1 is more than core 0?


i meant,why does core 1 work more than core 0?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Tator Question: Now I know SAS drives are basically sata drives but with SCSI commands...is it really worth running those on a regular desktop? Obviously the spindle speed is nice but do the scsi commands offer any benefit at all (games, checking email, ms office ect)?

SCSI Commands really won't have a bennifit for desktop users, but the access time is nothing, spindle speed is insane, and these driver are designed for RAID.

It's very rare that you find drives in a server not a part of an array, while desktop (consumer) SATA drives are not really designed with that intention in mind, so different drives from the same series can have verrying RAID performance.

While on a SAS drive your RAID performance is pretty much all up to the controller, as most Fujitsu drives from the Same series, whether they are 73.6GB/143GB/300GB will all perform about the same.

Also, I think SAS drives have those odd numbers because they use 1024Byte scale and not the 1000Byte scale.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AMOCO* 
i meant,why does core 1 work more than core 0?

Single threaded apps will always have a priority to run on core 1.

Though, if you are running many single threaded apps at once, then you can use task manager to assign them to another core.


----------



## AMOCO

thanks tator


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AMOCO* 
thanks tator

No problem.


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

Hi guys, would you mind looking over this build and giving me some input. I'm finally going to go AM2/3 or whatever =p and want to know if i'm missing something.

CPU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819103649

MB: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813130237

PSU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817341016

RAM:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231121 ( will pick up another stick when more money is available.

GPU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814121350

Monitor: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16824009145

I plan on using the onboard on the MB For about two weeks until i can pick up that video card. But that is what i'm thinking so for once since socket A i'll at least be current for the moment lol.


----------



## Tator Tot

I would look at the ECS 785G board it's an awesome layout, look, and it has VRM/Mosfet cooling, which will be essential if you want to overclock that 720BE, otherwise you might overload your VRMs and kill the system.

EDIT: It might also be more cost effective to get a 2x2GB kit like this Corsair one. These are not amazing sticks, but they can do Cas 4 DDR2 800 on 2.0v or 1000mhz Cas 5.

But Cas 4 800mhz will be more effective on the system.


----------



## Tator Tot

Er.. Double post, but anyone looking, Opty 170 LCB9E in the FS section along with DDR1 RAM.


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

Alright i'll grab that ram. Cheaper and better performance. How is ECS as a brand? Do they have good support etc etc? I've never worked on / used one.


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
I would look at the ECS 785G board it's an awesome layout, look, and it has VRM/Mosfet cooling, which will be essential if you want to overclock that 720BE, otherwise you might overload your VRMs and kill the system.

EDIT: It might also be more cost effective to get a 2x2GB kit like this Corsair one. These are not amazing sticks, but they can do Cas 4 DDR2 800 on 2.0v or 1000mhz Cas 5.

But Cas 4 800mhz will be more effective on the system.


Sry for DP but is there something around that MSI's price range you would suggest? I can't afford 20 more dollars sad as it is. I planed on getting the PSU/Case/MB this payday (Friday) and the rest next pay day. That way i can afford it and have everything wire managed, crimped, primed and ready to go when the cpu / ram roll in.

EDIT: Well... the ECS has free shipping while the MSI would be 10 bucks to ship. So really it's only 10 dollars more PLUS the ecs has a rebate. I may just end up grabbing the ECS >.< lol


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary*


Alright i'll grab that ram. Cheaper and better performance. How is ECS as a brand? Do they have good support etc etc? I've never worked on / used one.


Customer support is decent. A step above MSI from my experience.

There newer boards are what they are really coming back with to try and be an enthusiast grade board.

And the quality is good.

Guru3D has a review of that board. Pretty solid IMHO.


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

that ecs is ddr3. The ram you posted is ddr2. What ddr3 ram would you suggest? Please on the lower end


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary*


that ecs is ddr3. The ram you posted is ddr2. What ddr3 ram would you suggest? Please on the lower end










They took off the AM2+ version from Newegg.

But they still have the ECS 780G Ultra which is a great budget board as well.

Though, if you want to go with the ECS 785G, I would grab this kit of DDR3.It's only 2x1GB instead of 2x2GB, but they are great benching sticks as they'll go up to 2000mhz Cas 9. (Intel P45/x38 chipsets) 
They should do Cas 8 DDR3 1600mhz

I would grab those sticks and the 785G Chipset though. Better room for expansion in the future.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Go for the PERC 6/i.

When Burrito sells them on here it's $109 shipped w/ BBU (battery backup unit.)

Go to Fleabay for cables.


 That's a damn good price. I wonder how much of a performance increase a discrete RAID controller will produce?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, you'll also probably see little to no cpu usage with a discrete card.

What's wrong with your average read numbers? They look pretty good to me.


 Well the burst numbers are down, I know those don't really mean much. And to tell you quite honestly, it just "feels" slower than it did on my CFX3200DR. Perhaps it's just a perceived slowness.







Maybe after I get everything installed and defrag it'll be better.

Gawd, this is what I hate about re-installing.










And that's not even half of the games I have on steam alone. Not to mention the other 17 retail games I don't have installed (I've already installed 8 retail).


----------



## N2Gaming

BO I noticed yesterday that my DFI NF4 SLI-DR system seems snappier at the keyboard level. i.e. if I click on start it snaps up the screen for programs etc etc a little quicker like w/no hesitation. but my AM2/AM2+ systems feel a bit slower at the keyboard when doing the same tasks. Over all I still think the newer systems are better for gaming and what not just from having higher core clocks/Ram clocks and more cpu cores w/more cache.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


That's a damn good price. I wonder how much of a performance increase a discrete RAID controller will produce?


Most likely huge depending on the drive.

3 x Samsung F3's can go past 600MB/s sequential.


----------



## Blitz6804

Silly question BlackOmega, why not just backup your installed Steam games prior to reformatting? Then you need only download any updates since the backup. (Backup C:\\Program Files (x86)\\Steam. Reformat your computer. Install steam. Replace the entire contents of the C:\\Program Files (x86)\\Steam folder with the backed up version. Run Steam. Everything should be hunky dory.)


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
BO I noticed yesterday that my DFI NF4 SLI-DR system seems snappier at the keyboard level. i.e. if I click on start it snaps up the screen for programs etc etc a little quicker like w/no hesitation. but my AM2/AM2+ systems feel a bit slower at the keyboard when doing the same tasks. Over all I still think the newer systems are better for gaming and what not just from having higher core clocks/Ram clocks and more cpu cores w/more cache.









That's pretty weird isn't it? My 939 rigs are pretty fast, even in gaming they didn't do all that bad quite honestly. I really didn't have very many issues with games at all.
Once I get a free minute and finally make a bracket for my cooler and start OCing will I really notice a difference.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Most likely huge depending on the drive.

3 x Samsung F3's can go past 600MB/s sequential.

That's pretty impressive. I might just have to break down and get one of them there Perc's.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Silly question BlackOmega, why not just backup your installed Steam games prior to reformatting? Then you need only download any updates since the backup. (Backup C:\\Program Files (x86)\\Steam. Reformat your computer. Install steam. Replace the entire contents of the C:\\Program Files (x86)\\Steam folder with the backed up version. Run Steam. Everything should be hunky dory.)

Good point I probably should have, I'm just wondering how many DVD's that would take. Once I get them all installed I'll make physical backups.


----------



## Blitz6804

Or look into a USB hard drive?


----------



## bgbop15

awww, a resister BLEW on my last 939 mobo... will miss you guys


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bgbop15* 
awww, a resister BLEW on my last 939 mobo... will miss you guys










just replace the resister.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
That's pretty weird isn't it? My 939 rigs are pretty fast, even in gaming they didn't do all that bad quite honestly. I really didn't have very many issues with games at all.
Once I get a free minute and finally make a bracket for my cooler and start OCing will I really notice a difference.

Yes it is weird... I think once you start to run the latest games you will start to see more impressive results w/your newer AM3 system.








Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Or look into a USB hard drive?

Or he could use an internal HDD for the same thing no??? Well if You have a spare HDD that is BO. It's not easy to have a spare HDD just laying around. but if you have an older IDE or something like that w/10-40GB that should work as well and be easier and faster no?


----------



## Blitz6804

I have a spare 120 GB IDE I cannot use (since today's motherboards only have 1 IDE connector) and an 80 GB SATA in a USB enclosure. I would love to trade my SATA USB for an IDE USB, in which case I could have 80 GB in RAID for experimental systems and a 120 GB USB for backup. (My backup file is about 74 GB, and the drive, when formatted, is about 74.5 GB.)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Also, I think SAS drives have those odd numbers because they use 1024Byte scale and not the 1000Byte scale.


Tator, that explains it. Great info


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator, that explains it. Great info










I'm not 100% on it.

But my brains got some notion of that being the case. And it is entirely possible, as many things are labeled in the correct fashion in the Enterprise World.


----------



## OSDCrusher

Will a Corsair TX450W fully power my sig rig?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OSDCrusher*


Will a Corsair TX450W fully power my sig rig?


They don't make a TX450, they do have a VX450 though, and yes, it'll power your rig just fine.

EDIT: You'll need to get a Power adapter though. Just as an FYI as it only has 1 PCIe 6pin connector.

The VX550 would not need an adapter though.


----------



## OSDCrusher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


They don't make a TX450, they do have a VX450 though, and yes, it'll power your rig just fine.


Sorry... I meant the VX450W. Should I get a TX650W? Kinda worried, I thought the 2900XT was a power hog.

EDIT: I have a few of those molex to 6-pin pci-express.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OSDCrusher*


Sorry... I meant the VX450W. Should I get a TX650W? Kinda worried, I thought the 2900XT was a power hog.


HD2900Xt is ~200watt TDP (Actual is more like 182w IIRC)

And your CPU will barley top 140watts on 100% load.

So 340watts on your 12v line. And the VX450 has 392watts on the 12v line.

Also, check my edit, you may want to look at the VX550
It has 492watts on the 12v line.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Also, check my edit, you may want to look at the VX550
It has 492watts on the 12v line.


Tator, great suggestion. This particular unit is built by Channel Well Technology. The build quality is excellent and very reliable. Here's nice review from Jonnyguru: http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php...=Story&reid=62

Did I mention I have this power supply?









Good luck


----------



## Tator Tot

It is an amazing little unit.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OSDCrusher*


Sorry... I meant the VX450W. Should I get a TX650W? Kinda worried, I thought the 2900XT was a power hog.

EDIT: I have a few of those molex to 6-pin pci-express.


 I personally tend to go a little on the overkill side with PSU's. I like the added headroom. My personal belief is that if you're not stressing the PSU as much it'll provide cleaner input power (run more efficiently). Which, IMO, will make it easier to overclock as the motherboard doesn't have to smooth out as much erratic input current.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I personally tend to go a little on the overkill side with PSU's. I like the added headroom. My personal belief is that if you're not stressing the PSU as much it'll provide cleaner input power (run more efficiently). Which, IMO, will make it easier to overclock as the motherboard doesn't have to smooth out as much erratic input current.


BlackOmega, sometimes if the price difference is like $20 between a 550 and 750 it's probably almost better to spend the $20 and get the bigger unit. I think the VX550 is already overkill for my rig though.

When I get my new AM3 rig (quad-core) I'll run some power measurements with my Kill-a-Watt tool and compare them to my current rig. I'll share the results for sure


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I personally tend to go a little on the overkill side with PSU's. I like the added headroom. My personal belief is that if you're not stressing the PSU as much it'll provide cleaner input power (run more efficiently). Which, IMO, will make it easier to overclock as the motherboard doesn't have to smooth out as much erratic input current.


Efficiency is usually peaked at 50% & 80% loads. And is measured at 20-50-80%

So for maximum efficiency you want a unit for your rig that'll let you idle around it's 20-30% load, and normally sit in the 50% range while peaking around 80%


----------



## thlnk3r

Tator, I have yet to see anything above 85% peak efficiency. Have you (ie. 90%+)?


----------



## Blitz6804

I think he means the peak efficiency (80%, 85%, 88%, whatever is on the label) tends to occur at 50-80% load.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Efficiency is usually peaked at 50% & 80% loads. And is measured at 20-50-80%

So for maximum efficiency you want a unit for your rig that'll let you idle around it's 20-30% load, and normally sit in the 50% range while peaking around 80%


 The PCP&C PSU's I have have a fairly linear efficiency rating (according to Jonyyguru). There isn't much more than 10% variation between idle and and full load. 
I'm not sure how my Antec does, it's rated at 70% minimum at full load. But it's been squealing for about a year now.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Tator, I have yet to see anything above 85% peak efficiency. Have you (ie. 90%+)?


Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I think he means the peak efficiency (80%, 85%, 88%, whatever is on the label) tends to occur at 50-80% load.

Correct. Though, The Seasonic X-Series 650watt hits 90% Eff @ 50% Load.

And at 100% Load on the 12v line it has 89.6%

(From: Jonny Guru Review )

Which is mighty impressive. My heart was stolen by this unit.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
The PCP&C PSU's I have have a fairly linear efficiency rating (according to Jonyyguru). There isn't much more than 10% variation between idle and and full load.
I'm not sure how my Antec does, it's rated at 70% minimum at full load. But it's been squealing for about a year now.

It all depends on the PSU.

Though, usually 50% Load has the highest efficiency, while 20% being the lowest, and 80% load being the middle ground.


----------



## OSDCrusher

Page 1939 FTW.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I think he means the peak efficiency (80%, 85%, 88%, whatever is on the label) tends to occur at 50-80% load.

Blitz, yes I knew what he was talking about









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Correct. Though, The Seasonic X-Series 650watt hits 90% Eff @ 50% Load.

And at 100% Load on the 12v line it has 89.6%

(From: Jonny Guru Review )

Tator, wow that is quite impressive! I need to do some research on this unit. Is this X-Series unit a new release?


----------



## BlackOmega

HEy guy swanted to give you a heads up about testing mobo's on antistatic bags. DO NOT test them on the ones with the grid. They DO conduct electricity. The all silver ones without the grid do not. Well at least not enough to be of any significance.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


HEy guy swanted to give you a heads up about testing mobo's on antistatic bags. DO NOT test them on the ones with the grid. They DO conduct electricity. The all silver ones without the grid do not. Well at least not enough to be of any significance.


BlackOmega, are you positive? I've received several products at home and at work that were in that type of ESD bag


----------



## OSDCrusher

No one noticed that we're on page 1939?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, are you positive? I've received several products at home and at work that were in that type of ESD bag










 Absolutely. I checked the 2 styles of ESD bags, with a grid and w/o a grid. The ones with a grid, without a doubt conduct electricity. The grid itself is whats conductive.
The all silver ones w/o the grid, do not as far as I could tell with my voltmeter. And my voltmeter is fairly sensitive as it easily picked up the electrical impulses my body puts out.


----------



## Blitz6804

I believe Heuristic has said that all anti-static bags are conductive.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I believe Heuristic has said that all anti-static bags are conductive.


 I couldn't get the all silver ones to conduct any electricity at all. I tried several different ones I have laying around.


----------



## OSDCrusher

Tsk tsk tsk...


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator, wow that is quite impressive! I need to do some research on this unit. Is this X-Series unit a new release?


Hot off the press. I just got my X650 the other day. Such a beautiful piece of technology.

It's light, the fan hardly ever turns on. It's practically passively cooled, but doesn't heat up at all.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


HEy guy swanted to give you a heads up about testing mobo's on antistatic bags. DO NOT test them on the ones with the grid. They DO conduct electricity. The all silver ones without the grid do not. Well at least not enough to be of any significance.


It shouldn't cause any harm to the components, and if you needed to, they are only gridded on one side









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I believe Heuristic has said that all anti-static bags are conductive.


Well, to an extent everything is.

Though, I've benched on a Grid based ESD bag no problem before.


----------



## thlnk3r

In regards to the ESD topic, here is a good read on some of the different ESD bags: http://www.gndzero.com/techdocs/Shie..._Right_Bag.pdf.

FYI, stay away from the "pink poly" bags


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


It shouldn't cause any harm to the components, and if you needed to, they are only gridded on one side









Though, I've benched on a Grid based ESD bag no problem before.


 I'm sure the likelihood of it happening isn't very great, it is definitely is possible. 
Would suck if you bought a new rig, powered it up on a gridded ESD bag and all of the sudden you release the magic smoke.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I'm sure the likelihood of it happening isn't very great, it is definitely is possible. 
Would suck if you bought a new rig, powered it up on a gridded ESD bag and all of the sudden you release the magic smoke.










Highly doubt that would happen. 
It would probably be more like when a screw gets dropped in a case, the board won't turn on and whatnot.

Most of the time, active measures in your PSU & on your board prevent such occurrences now a days.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Absolutely. I checked the 2 styles of ESD bags, with a grid and w/o a grid. The ones with a grid, without a doubt conduct electricity. The grid itself is whats conductive.
The all silver ones w/o the grid, do not as far as I could tell with my voltmeter. And my voltmeter is fairly sensitive as it easily picked up the electrical impulses my body puts out.

Voltmeter is very low wattage hook your Ps up to the bag.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
...Heuristic ...


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Voltmeter is very low wattage hook your Ps up to the bag.


 I think if I did that my wife would look at me like









And I was jsut measuring conductivity. Which is _extremely_ low. The bags with the grids have almost no resistance.


----------



## Hueristic

OK, here's a tough one. Upon reboot after reinstalling OS after HD failure Vid beep codes. Suddenly pci-e slot non functional. AGP and PCI fine.
Asrock Dual-SataII


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
OK, here's a tough one. Upon reboot after reinstalling OS after HD failure Vid beep codes. Suddenly pci-e slot non functional. AGP and PCI fine.
Asrock Dual-SataII

Overclocked? If so put back to stock for testing purposes. Pull PCIe card check for obvious burns on the gold fingers. Check for voltage on the PCIe slot....









I'm sure I'll come up with more, it's early and I haven't and breakfast yet.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Overclocked? If so put back to stock for testing purposes. Pull PCIe card check for obvious burns on the gold fingers. Check for voltage on the PCIe slot....









I'm sure I'll come up with more, it's early and I haven't and breakfast yet.

PCI-E card works in other system. Haven't ripped system open enough to probe. Trying to figure it out before that hassle.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
PCI-E card works in other system. Haven't ripped system open enough to probe. Trying to figure it out before that hassle.

What card is it?

The PCIe slot might not be supplying enough power (I've seen that happen on those older boards with AGP & PCIe 1.0.)


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
What card is it?

The PCIe slot might not be supplying enough power (I've seen that happen on those older boards with AGP & PCIe 1.0.)

I've tried both my 8800gs and added a second ps to check for that. That was my first thought also.

I dropped it on the operating table an hour ago but I filled the addition with smoke (damper was closed on wood stove) so I have to wait for it to clear out to rip it apart.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
I've tried both my 8800gs and added a second ps to check for that. That was my first thought also.

I dropped it on the operating table an hour ago but I filled the addition with smoke (damper was closed on wood stove) so I have to wait for it to clear out to rip it apart.

Do you have any GPU's that run without added PCIe power cables?

Like an 8600GT or something?

If it gives you the beeps about power then it's probably a busted slot then.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Do you have any GPU's that run without added PCIe power cables?

Like an 8600GT or something?

If it gives you the beeps about power then it's probably a busted slot then.

No unpowered pci-e cards. The beep code is the vid bios code. I've never seen a slot die on a warm reboot so I doubt the slot is bad. Also the NB controls both agp and pcie so I doubt it's that.

As soon as the smoke clears I'll rip it out of the case and clean it out and check the slot out with a magnifying glass.


----------



## thlnk3r

Hueristic, lame obvious question here but I have to ask...have you cleared the cmos and ran the defaults? This is really strange to occur especially after a simple "reboot". Just to clarify you are not getting a POST screen at all correct?

Good luck


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Hueristic, lame obvious question here but I have to ask...have you cleared the cmos and ran the defaults? This is really strange to occur especially after a simple "reboot". Just to clarify you are not getting a POST screen at all correct?

Good luck


Correct, no post only vid bios beep code with pci-e installed. agp and pci is fine. As soon as I got a boot with pci vid card I cdleared and reset all bios setings to default.

Where's the







Icon?

Edit: room should be clear now I'll go rip the board out of the case.


----------



## Hueristic

W0W, Quick response from Asrock.

Quote:



Hi,

Sorry about the issue you. We believe it's could be PCIE slot is not compatible with your Nvidia 8800GS. Have you try to reinstall the newer Nvidia video drive yet. Please give a try. If you the problem still remaining. Contact the vendor and do the replacement. Thank you for your time,

Asrock Support Team


But the guy obviously has no clue what he's talking about and needs a reading comprehension class. here is my email to them.

Quote:



upon reboot pci-e slot no longer detected. must use agp or pci for graphics card. Vid beep code with pci-e only plugged in and not detected when booted with multiple vid cards.


EDIT: sorry bout the DBL post. Here is my responce.

Quote:



Of course The Board is compatible with the 8800gs. I have 2 and have been running them in this board for over a year. As stated this was on a reboot! considering the AGP and PCI-e controllers are on the same ULI chip and not finding a problem upon inspection of the PCI-E slot I am at a quandary.


BTW I've pulled the board blown it out with 120psi, inspected with magnifier and pulled cmos battery and set to clear and am letting it sit overnight, I'll try the reversed battery tomorrow if this fails and then if that fails I'll start metering the slot. I just don't have the time for this right now.









Well hopefully I'll get it back for the next foldathon. down to 2 folders right now.


----------



## BlackOmega

Hue, just for kicks and giggles clean the gold fingers with an eraser and the slot with a toothbrush. Maybe there's corrosion in there. Couldn't hurt anyway.

Keep us posted and good luck.


----------



## Blitz6804

Holy Engrish batman! Am I the only one who finds something wrong with the ASRock post?


----------



## Hueristic

I edited my post above with my response. Maybe I should send them a link to this thread so they can learn a thing or 2.








Quick responce though, I sent this ticket out at "Sent: Tuesday, October 20, 2009 6:18 AM"

EDIT: Asrock and my response

Quote:

??? I get BIOS beep code! No driver will ever help!!!!! Are you understanding what I am saying?

Maybe your english is bad?

Eric Lin wrote:
> what is the power wattage on this mainboard? Did the new Nvidia driver help
> at all ?
>
>
> Asrock Support Team


----------



## Blitz6804

Tator Tot: Not Hueristic, but the ASRock technician.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Tator Tot: Not Hueristic, but the ASRock technician.

You expect any less?









I've given up being able to understand most Non-US based companies.

EVGA/BFG/XFX always seem to speak English.
Sapphire used to before the middlemen thing came into play. (haven't touched them since)
To my Knowledge Diamond still does, but I won't touch them.

Out of board makers, ECS Has native English speakers last time I had to Visit for an eJiffy question (their quick boot linux OS.)

Gigabyte is usually pretty good, but there site is always soooo slow...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Hue, just for kicks and giggles clean the gold fingers with an eraser and the slot with a toothbrush. Maybe there's corrosion in there. Couldn't hurt anyway.

BlackOmega, I don't see how the contacts could have gone bad right after a simple reboot though. I'm quite boggle by this unless of course some random power surge just occurred at the same time and damaged some components....


----------



## Hueristic

Yeah, I'm pretty surprised at this reply, Obviously this guy has no clue and can't speak english. But I'm sure he'll kick it up sooner or later when someone translated the issue to him in laymens terms.
















Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Hue, just for kicks and giggles clean the gold fingers with an eraser and the slot with a toothbrush. Maybe there's corrosion in there. Couldn't hurt anyway.

Keep us posted and good luck.









For sure, tomorrow after I give it time to drain. Personally I think "It's dead Jim" but I have no clue what could have gone? wish I had a pci-e 1x card to check the other slot. Maybe Bah, it's not worth the effort.

Yeah Thlnkr I'm wondering about that two. Actually I'm thinking whatever killed the hard drive might have caused it and it just took a few reboots to show up.


----------



## Blitz6804

Diamond has English speaking technicians. However, I found out that they refuse to honor their warranty. I should have taken legal action, but I decided instead to buy from another company.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
For sure, tomorrow after I give it time to drain. Personally I think "It's dead Jim" but I have no clue what could have gone? wish I had a pci-e 1x card to check the other slot. Maybe Bah, it's not worth the effort.

Cut the back out of the slot and put the 8800GS in it.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Cut the back out of the slot and put the 8800GS in it.


I was thinking that but it's in a tough to get at spot. I think I'd have to melt it so that is the last resort. But I'm pretty sure it's the entire pci-e bus.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


I was thinking that but it's in a tough to get at spot. I think I'd have to melt it so that is the last resort. But I'm pretty sure it's the entire pci-e bus.


I'm usually able to use a razer blade or exacto knife to cut the back off, then I use some needle-nose pliers to bend it off.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


EVGA/BFG/XFX always seem to speak English. 
Sapphire used to before the middlemen thing came into play. (haven't touched them since)
To my Knowledge Diamond still does, but I won't touch them.


What's this middlemen thing? I contacted Sapphire about a year ago about my x1950 and the reply was in flawless English.
I always buy my ATi cards from Sapphire because they are one of the cheaper brands where I live and I've never had any problems with them, but if their support is failing then I might go with XFX, lol.


----------



## Blitz6804

I had to deal with Sapphire tech support. You actually talk to a company OTHER than Sapphire. Specifically, when you have a problem, you contact Althonmicro who deals with troubleshooting and the RMA process.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


What's this middlemen thing? I contacted Sapphire about a year ago about my x1950 and the reply was in flawless English.
I always buy my ATi cards from Sapphire because they are one of the cheaper brands where I live and I've never had any problems with them, but if their support is failing then I might go with XFX, lol.


Yeah Sapphire Warranty is crapola now, I tried to rma my x850 still under warranty and the middleman not only want an extra $15 bucks but was giving me a hard time about it being under warranty. It is till 2010 but it's not worth the hastle or the extra $15.


----------



## HothBase

Wow, I didn't know that. Thanks, you guys.








I expected better from the company that is supposed to be ATi's largest partner.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
Wow, I didn't know that. Thanks, you guys.








I expected better from the company that is supposed to be ATi's largest partner.









Yeah, really depresses me. I've been talking them up for a year and a half because of the great RMA experience I had. These companies just don't get it that word of mouth now can make or break a company.

Hmmm, maybe I'll link this thread to the asrock guy, if he ever responds after my last comment!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Yeah Thlnkr I'm wondering about that two. Actually I'm thinking whatever killed the hard drive might have caused it and it just took a few reboots to show up.

Hueristic, what kind of symptoms did you have when the drive failed? Was it clicking? Bad sectors? Drive read errors?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I had to deal with Sapphire tech support. You actually talk to a company OTHER than Sapphire. Specifically, when you have a problem, you contact Althonmicro who deals with troubleshooting and the RMA process.

Blitz, of course they do. You know how much money they save by doing that? For one they save money on hiring call center agents. There are far too many costs and other "various" things involved in order to provide support to customers. It's cheaper to have a 3rd party do it since they have all the resources, experience, hardware ect ect


----------



## Blitz6804

Could be worse thlnk3r. McAfee only offers free email and chat support (no phone calls unless paid), and if I remember right, Norton offers no free support options aside of their forum.

I miss the good old days when I used to buy direct from ATi; although, while they gave me great support during the product's life, at exactly one year to the date of manufacture, they claimed my warranty died. The card died the next day, about 50 weeks after I purchased it, and ATi told me I was out of luck. Then I went Visiontek, and ATi stopped producing cards themselves literally months later. For that matter, I miss a time when no matter what you did to them, the hardware did not break; it was always a software issue. Remember when Windows ran from DOS? Remember how it would crash at least once a day? Those were the days.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, of course they do. You know how much money they save by doing that? For one they save money on hiring call center agents. There are far too many costs and other "various" things involved in order to provide support to customers. It's cheaper to have a 3rd party do it since they have all the resources, experience, hardware ect ect










Sure sounds like they save money as they pass the cost on to the consumer... This is terrible business practice. Hue said they wanted $15.00 that is rediculouse. I can understand if they wante it for shipping but then again most of the times we have to pay s/h to and they pay from them to us. Crosses Saphire off my list, oh wait they never were on it.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, my card was a month old when I went to RMA it. Like Hue, Althonmicro demanded a $15.00 "administration fee." When I raised a royal fit about it, they waived it.


----------



## Tator Tot

VisionTek is by far my most favorite ATi company.

I usually go 
VisionTek
HIS 
XFX

VisionTek & XFX Both offer lifetime warranties, and have great Customer service.

HIS Makes the best after market coolers for cards though. IceQ (made by Arctic Cooling) has always been a great design that's quiet.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Sure sounds like they save money as they pass the cost on to the consumer... This is terrible business practice. Hue said they wanted $15.00 that is rediculouse. I can understand if they wante it for shipping but then again most of the times we have to pay s/h to and they pay from them to us. Crosses Saphire off my list, oh wait they never were on it.


















Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Yeah, my card was a month old when I went to RMA it. Like Hue, Althonmicro demanded a $15.00 "administration fee." When I raised a fit about it, they waived it.


Regardless of that I can say that majority of the larger companies do not provide their own support. A lot of the poor customer support shouldn't be blamed on the manufacturer as most of it is the 3rd party providing support. If the manufacturer actually does call reporting then they can check to see how good the agents are doing. It's up to them though to clean things up or to switch companies. I can tell you guys right now whenever you call Vizio for help/rma issues ect you are definitely not talking to Vizio


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Hueristic, what kind of symptoms did you have when the drive failed? Was it clicking? Bad sectors? Drive read errors?..


No power up at all. System was locked while folding. I figured it was just old (40g).

Sp here is the response I got. BTW it was from a different tech this time and was cc'd to [email protected]. I'll send them the serial tomorrow if I can't get the board back. I have no clue what the warranty was. I'm sure It's out but it can't hurt.

Quote:



Dear ASRock costumer,
Base on your email ;you must have a defective PCIexpress slot.
As you mentioned in your email it was working before and now is not longer working or detected ,therefore the ASRock motherboard you have need to be repaired by a computer tech specialist .
Please contact your vendor if you considered your motherboard still under warranty.
ASRock America Support


----------



## N2Gaming

I considered getting the ASRock K10N780SLIX3-WiFi AM2+ before I got the Destroyer but ASRock warranty scared me. I'm sure you have had your ASRock for more then a year now Hueristic so Unless you can pull a fast one good luck w/the repairs.

And Saphire Customer Service = Faceplant...


----------



## Tator Tot

I know some of you guy's were interested, so I'm letting you know, Burrito4 is selling PERC 5/i's for $80 (w/BBU) + Shipping.

That's a great deal on them, as you can ship them Flatrate for like $5 via USPS


----------



## Blitz6804

Look out Thlnk3r, Tator Tot is only 34 posts behind you, and gaining fast!


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Look out Thlnk3r, Tator Tot is only 34 posts behind you, and gaining fast!


I've got a 21.6 PPD average.

So...3 days maybe?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I considered getting the ASRock K10N780SLIX3-WiFi AM2+ before I got the Destroyer but ASRock warranty scared me. I'm sure you have had your ASRock for more then a year now Hueristic so Unless you can pull a fast one good luck w/the repairs.

And Saphire Customer Service = Faceplant...










1 year, yup had it longer than that. I didn't remember what it was. Damn that looks painful! What a dork.


----------



## N2Gaming

Yeah I think all of ASRock mobo's come w/a 1 year warranty. At least this is what I can remember from all the research I did before my Foxconn purchase. To top it off ASRock insist's that you take up any RMA's w/the retailer where the mobo was purchased.







That right there told me to run to the hills














and don't look back. I'm not bashing ASRock. They are the only company releasing products that consumers really want at a time when all the other manufactures have moved on and dropped support for specific features.


----------



## Blitz6804

OSDCrusher: I have finally updated your speed on the off-site roster.

EDIT: Anyone else notice that this page (1944) is reminiscent of the world's first assault rifle? That is, the Sturmgewehr 1944.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


For that matter, I miss a time when no matter what you did to them, the hardware did not break; it was always a software issue. Remember when Windows ran from DOS? Remember how it would crash at least once a day? Those were the days.


How odd. I've broken three pieces of hardware: A motherboard that was was admittedly pushed very hard as my testing/OCing board (replaced for free by ASUS), a set of DDR500s that never passed MemTest86+ (Corsair refunded me), and an Opteron 170 (I ate the cost on that one because I dropped a heatsink accidentally on a naked chip







). I must not be doing something right because I'm not breaking parts left and right.









In all seriousness, I'm frankly shocked at the rate some people do request RMAs. (I don't mean you, Blitzy, so don't go there.







) Are they that unlucky, or is something else going on?


----------



## Blitz6804

Feel free to include me Joe. Between my Asus boards I have over a dozen, three on my Gigabyte, two on my Creative speakers, a couple of GPUs... I would say you have been lucky.


----------



## BlackOmega

As far as RMA's are concerned, I've had a total of 4. 2 for the V2 cooler, 1 for 1 of my GSO for squealing like a stuck pig when under load and 1 for my first set of Corsair XMS. I guess I must be lucky (knocks on wood).

A little OT (sort of), how well do you guys think a dual 1.8GHz cpu would run GTA IV?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
EDIT: Anyone else notice that this page (1944) is reminiscent of the world's first assault rifle? That is, the Sturmgewehr 1944.

I love that gun. I own a replica. It's not the best, but I can understand why it was so loved compared to cumbersome weapons of the time like M1/K8/BAR

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
How odd. I've broken three pieces of hardware: A motherboard that was was admittedly pushed very hard as my testing/OCing board (replaced for free by ASUS), a set of DDR500s that never passed MemTest86+ (Corsair refunded me), and an Opteron 170 (I ate the cost on that one because I dropped a heatsink accidentally on a naked chip







). I must not be doing something right because I'm not breaking parts left and right.









My RMA Experience comes mostly from me being the one doing the purchasing for other folks and then them not listening.

Had to send back a HD4850 a few times because they would not listen to me about cranking the fan speed, so they died from heat.


----------



## Blitz6804

BlackOmega: Not well at all. Pioneerisloud had a problem running GTA IV on his 3.1 GHz dual core. As far as I know, DesertRat could not play the game well until he got his Deneb.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
OSDCrusher: I have finally updated your speed on the off-site roster.

EDIT: Anyone else notice that this page (1944) is reminiscent of the world's first assault rifle? That is, the Sturmgewehr 1944.

Funny I've been watching the last nazi series for the past few hours.

AFA RMA I've had very few personal ones but too many to count from customer builds and corporate systems. That is why I have strong feeling on certain companies. I've rma'd 10 boards at a time and it's not so much the fact the board die in a week it's the time and effort spend replacing them. Quality products and a company that stands behind them are my criteria for purchasing. I still hate seagate from 20 bad 2gig drives. When We got a batch of bad 6gig (3 plater)WD drives they notified us they may fail and we replaced them in an orderly fashion. The seagates cost data loss and time rebuilding them.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*























That made me lol, thanks N2.










 Any time.









I have had several RMA's as well.

1x for my OCZ 2x1G DDR400 platinum from DOA when purchased new.

2x for one of my Seagate 500G Sata drive

3x for one of my Asus M2N32 SLI Deluxe mobo's. The other two M2N32 mobo's are and have remained flawless. This RMA mobo was a board that I got on ebay DOA and ASUS took care of me but they sent it back in same condition on the first RMA. So I had to send it back on their dollar and got a replacement board. The replacement died on me from a combonation of things after a bios flash so I ended up w/a 3rd RMA that gave me a brand new complete mobo package.

1x My sig power supply 700w Thermal Take Tough Power

I also have had a Maxtor and a Quantum drive fail on me as well just after warraties were up so as far as I'm concerned Seagate =


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

I'm buying some new parts Friday and i have a question. Is there a Cross Fire Board that has onboard Video? I know it's a silly question but my plan was to start building a computer but since i kind of have to play to pay check to pay check because my current computer is failing (not my 939, my old Socket A) and i kind of need something to work now









Anyways, i wanted onboard video so i could still run the computer but in two weeks i could pick up a new 5770 and later on i wanted to cross fire it.

So is there a motherboard that is crossfire ready but also has onboard? I'm way out of the loop with new motherboards.


----------



## Blitz6804

BigpoppaFrary: Anything that is based on the 790 GX would be your best bet for Crossfire and onboard video.


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

I'm looking at this ...

Gigabyte: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813128395

Or asus: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131398

Which one? They have two pci-e 2.0 so does that mean they can crossfire?

BTW, i'm getting a phenom II x3 so i need AM3 Support


----------



## Tator Tot

I would go with the Asus board, it has VRM cooling.

(I know Thlnk3r, it's not a Gigabyte







)


----------



## N2Gaming

That Asus is AM3 while the Gigabyte looks to be AM2+ neweggs specs list the Gigabyte as AM3/AM2+/AM2 but call for DDR2 RAM

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Yeah Sapphire Warranty is crapola now, I tried to rma my x850 still under warranty and the middleman not only want an extra $15 bucks but was giving me a hard time about it being under warranty. It is till 2010 but it's not worth the hastle or the extra $15.


Have you asked them what gpu they would replace the X850 with? My guess is you would end up w/a better video card then the X850 and if so it might be worth your time just to turn it around and sell it on ebay for a profit.


----------



## N2Gaming

Here is a worthy double post. Free stuff from New egg. Here is the link the the OCN thread


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
BlackOmega: Not well at all. Pioneerisloud had a problem running GTA IV on his 3.1 GHz dual core. As far as I know, DesertRat could not play the game well until he got his Deneb.

Yeah these idiots on another forum are saying that they ran it just fine with a dual 1.8







. Then when I called them on it they couldn't back anything up. fools.


----------



## N2Gaming

The first time the seagate firmware crashed and the second time I could not prove that is what happened but I have sneaky suspiscion that is what happened. They sent me a different firmware version all together.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
The first time the seagate firmware crashed and the second time I could not prove that is what happened but I have sneaky suspiscion that is what happened. They sent me a different firmware version all together.

Man that guy looks pretty abusive to that girl.









Yeah they had a big issue with their drives for a while there.

Sorry about the gif, I'll change it. Although, when I saw it, it almost brought me to tears.


----------



## Blitz6804

I saw the free stuff N2Gaming... I was so upset when it said Florida, New York, Rhode Island (sorry Hue), and Quebec need not apply.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I saw the free stuff N2Gaming... I was so upset when it said Florida, New York, Rhode Island (sorry Hue), and Quebec need not apply.


You don't have a friend or relative in one of the acceptable states that you could have it mailed to?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I saw the free stuff N2Gaming... I was so upset when it said Florida, New York, Rhode Island (sorry Hue), and Quebec need not apply.


They didn't say anything about Washington







. I signed up!


----------



## BlackOmega

So where do they announce the winners?


----------



## TestECull

My manny handled GTA IV fairly well. I got about 20FPS, tho it would dip down to 12-15 if I got in a big enough crash.

O, and I think my chip's starting to go out. It's been stocked for the longest of times, but as of late, every stability test I run has been showing minor instabilities. Fallout 3, for example, won't stay running more than an hour and a half without acting funny(or outright crashing), and my favorite model in Gmod has the telltale artifacts on it.

You guys think my chipset could be going instead?


----------



## BlackOmega

Testecull, sounds like temps issues to me quite honestly. Everything clean inside your case or is there a dead rat in there?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Testecull, sounds like temps issues to me quite honestly. Everything clean inside your case or is there a dead rat in there?


----------



## TestECull

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Testecull, sounds like temps issues to me quite honestly. Everything clean inside your case or is there a dead rat in there?


I ran FO3 in windowed, while watching CPU core1/core2, sysram load, GPU temp, GPU Mem temp, and some random mobo sensor.

NOTHING was over 45C, and that was my GPU Core. Mind you, this was while it was artifacting. CPU1/CPU2 were both at 31C, and the mobo sensor read a cool 27(This one's likely in-case ambient), with my GPU mem at about 41 or 42.

Pio's thinking chipset via steam chat, ya'll concur? Windows runs fine, 2d apps run fine and it never has issues POSTing. It won't boot off an IDE DVD drive, however. GTA IV crashed once, and took Windows + that functionality with it. Bad bios maybe?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Look out Thlnk3r, Tator Tot is only 34 posts behind you, and gaining fast!

*waits patiently for Blitz to lap his heatsink and IHS*









Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
So where do they announce the winners?

BlackOmega, on that same page where you signed up there is a link on the right that says, "SEE IF YOU'VE WON". Click that and it will list the winners. I believe it starts on October 22nd.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Testecull, sounds like temps issues to me quite honestly. Everything clean inside your case or is there a dead rat in there?


Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
















N2Gaming, don't laugh. I've cleaned out dead cockroaches from a few PC's including a power supply. The owner of the machine was wondering why it wouldn't turn on...geee I wonder why LOLLL.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
Mind you, this was while it was artifacting.

TestECull, good to see you. What kind of artifacting are we talking about here?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
Pio's thinking chipset via steam chat, ya'll concur? Windows runs fine, 2d apps run fine and it never has issues POSTing. It won't boot off an IDE DVD drive, however. GTA IV crashed once, and took Windows + that functionality with it. Bad bios maybe?

I thought you mentioned above that you were having difficulties passing stability testing? When attempting to boot off a IDE drive do you receive any error messages at or after POST?

Good luck


----------



## TestECull

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
TestECull, good to see you. What kind of artifacting are we talking about here?


Forgetting models, textures. Mis-loading textures. Physics errors. And then there's just the outright crashes that Fallout 3 is doing....honestly that game doesn't need any additional help in that departmet lol.

Quote:

I thought you mentioned above that you were having difficulties passing stability testing? When attempting to boot off a IDE drive do you receive any error messages at or after POST?
POSTS fine. Boots fine off SATA. IDE DVD drive just flat locks up in the first few screens. Also, despite reinstalling Windows to my 320gb SATA drive, I have to set my 120GB IDE drive first in the boot order or it won't boot.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
Forgetting models, textures. Mis-loading textures. Physics errors. And then there's just the outright crashes that Fallout 3 is doing....honestly that game doesn't need any additional help in that departmet lol.

TestECull, that could be more related to the game could it? Do you have another processor you could test with?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
POSTS fine. Boots fine off SATA. IDE DVD drive just flat locks up in the first few screens. Also, despite reinstalling Windows to my 320gb SATA drive, I have to set my 120GB IDE drive first in the boot order or it won't boot.

Check the "boot device priority". That is separate from the "boot order" I believe. What stability tests is your machine failing in?

Good luck


----------



## TestECull

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
TestECull, that could be more related to the game could it? Do you have another processor you could test with?

Gmod has a model that's rather poorly made. It always artifacts with an unstable CPU. I spawned it and, sure enough, it wasn't working properly(The hatch hinged on the wrong point and textures clung to it that shouldn't cling to it). so it's not Fallout specific, altho Fallout is a bit more sensitive to it than other games.

As for another proc....No. And even if I did, I wouldn't use it except as an absolute confirmatory test after ruling everything else out. Why? My chip has an important pin, related to the memory controller, broken off. My repair consists of wedging a piece of a bread tie core into the socket, it's unsoldered. Held in there by friction mainly. If I take this 4200+ out, there's no guarantee I'd be able to get it to work again.

Quote:

Check the "boot device priority". That is separate from the "boot order" I believe. What stability tests is your machine failing in?

Good luck
That's what I meant....lol. My IDE drive has to be the first drive the BIOS looks on, despite the OS being on an entirely different drive. Don't ask me how it's booting off of two drives at once, but it is. Boots fine, too, like I said, Window and anything 2d runs fine.


----------



## thlnk3r

TestECull, interesting method of testing. I'm assuming you tried different video card drivers for your 8800GS? It is sort of difficult to test the "bad processor" theory since you don't have another AM2 proc to test









What does Prime95/OCCT tests report?

Good luck


----------



## TestECull

It got a bit better with 190.17's. I was running 180.18's and it had a HUGE leak from Vram into Sysram, to the point my sysram had 20mb free after about an hour and a half. And then it would crash the driver entirely. 190.17's, however, work great. >512mb free while playing, and no nvkkdlm.dll crashes.

As for P95/OCCT...I don't have either of those on at the moment. Last time I ran an artificial stability test, I was still on a single core








. I'll set 'em going when I go to sleep.


----------



## N2Gaming

Teste, have you tried to run your games etc w/out the ide DVD drive just to see if it's the drive that is causing the problem or may the drivers that are loaded for that drive are conflicting w/your sata dvd drive. IDK sounds like it would be worth a shot to me just to know it's not the DVD drive causing the problem.


----------



## Blitz6804

As far as I know, Gary's Mod does not use a CD. If you run Fallout3.exe (instead of launcher.exe) Fallout3 also does not need a CD. I have found the most stable version of Fallout3 to be 1.5, not the newest 1.7. DesertRat also has found this to be the case, and like me, he has a Quad-Core AMD with ATi graphics.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


...Florida, New York, Rhode Island (sorry Hue)...


























Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


*waits patiently for Blitz to lap his heatsink and IHS*







...

































Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


Forgetting models, textures. Mis-loading textures. Physics errors. And then there's just the outright crashes that Fallout 3 is doing....honestly that game doesn't need any additional help in that departmet lol.

POSTS fine. Boots fine off SATA. IDE DVD drive just flat locks up in the first few screens. Also, despite reinstalling Windows to my 320gb SATA drive, I have to set my 120GB IDE drive first in the boot order or it won't boot.


I'm guessing it has to do with corruption from that mem controller pin. Try a tiny bit of liquid solder on it. Then check your drives for crosslinked files. mem errors will certainly cause those issues.


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


As far as I know, Gary's Mod does not use a CD. If you run Fallout3.exe (instead of launcher.exe) Fallout3 also does not need a CD. I have found the most stable version of Fallout3 to be 1.5, not the newest 1.7. DesertRat also has found this to be the case, and like me, he has a Quad-Core AMD with ATi graphics.


Strange...I had insane crashing issues with 1.5 and anything over one or two .esp mods. 1.6 and 1.7 cure that entirely.

Also, I use neither of those. I, instead, launch my game via fose_loader.exe. I _do_ have so many mods active that Fallout forgot how to shut down properly. lol this game doesn't need any help crashing. The crashing and texture forgetting, however, I'm 100% sure is not those mods, as it's in mods that have been stable for ages and haven't changed between then and now.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Teste, have you tried to run your games etc w/out the ide DVD drive just to see if it's the drive that is causing the problem or may the drivers that are loaded for that drive are conflicting w/your sata dvd drive. IDK sounds like it would be worth a shot to me just to know it's not the DVD drive causing the problem.



I NoCD any retail games I get one way or another. With Fallout 3, I had to install FOMM and FOSE in order to run my mods. These two mods bypass the CD check and GFWL all at once, so I don't need the disc. As for Gmod...it's a Steam release, so it will never need a DVD.


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

Can someone point me in the direction of a Crossfire Motherboard that has onbaord video but under 100 dollars? I Found this asus http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131398 but review said it doesn't fully support crossfire X and runs at 16x 4x. Will that make a problem with crossfireing two 5770?


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

sry for DP, but will 16x then 4x really make a diff over 8x and 8x ?


----------



## KEITHRH12

I love my 939!!!!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KEITHRH12* 
I love my 939!!!!


----------



## Hueristic

Well it looks like my 1695 has died. Just for GP I'm going to reflow the bga connection.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Well it looks like my 1695 has died. Just for GP I'm going to reflow the bga connection.

and what is 1695, GP & BGA??? sorry I'm a little out of the loope on these acronyms


----------



## Hueristic

Great news guys, IT worked! W00t.

BGA is the surface mounted packaging on the m1695 (and most nwer surface mount) NB pci-e bridge chip.

I burned up a little modeling clay to hold it in place And I've got pci-e back. :d

Wonder how long it'll last though. Don't sell that board N2 I'll be needing it. But in the meantime Looks like I can my folder back up.

N2 ygpm


----------



## Blitz6804

Sometimes the kluge-iest solutions are the coolest. Good show Hue.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Sometimes the kluge-iest solutions are the coolest. Good show Hue.


Yeah. I'm pretty happy. My last reflow failed miserably.









I'm pretty sure I could even remove the 1695 and the board would still work fine minus the pci-e bus. I emailed Asrock earlier and when they get back to me with a "We don't keep serial numbers on file for warranty" answer I'll tell them that it was their defective Solder joints that failed.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


As for P95/OCCT...I don't have either of those on at the moment. Last time I ran an artificial stability test, I was still on a single core







. I'll set 'em going when I go to sleep.


TestECull, ok so really we're not sure if your processor is really having issues or if it's just your video card/drivers. I'm sure Gmod uses both the video card and processor but it would be nice to see if we can isolate the problem before taking guesses









Quote:



Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary*


Can someone point me in the direction of a Crossfire Motherboard that has onbaord video but under 100 dollars? I Found this asus http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131398 but review said it doesn't fully support crossfire X and runs at 16x 4x. Will that make a problem with crossfireing two 5770?


BigpoppaFrary, as previously mentioned please check out this offering from Biostar: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813138141. After the MIR it's under $100. This board has a onboard video adapter and does Crossfire (8x, 8x).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary*


sry for DP, but will 16x then 4x really make a diff over 8x and 8x ?


Maybe Tator can answer that question but I don't think you would know the difference regardless of what the numbers say in terms of allotted bandwidth ect. Maybe if enough eye candy (AF, AA) is used then it may show...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


BGA is the surface mounted packaging on the m1695 (and most nwer surface mount) NB pci-e bridge chip.

I burned up a little modeling clay to hold it in place And I've got pci-e back.


Hueristic, are you saying one there was a broken solder joint on the chipset (ULi m1695)? How does this occur after a reboot? God job on the fix









Good luck


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


...Hueristic, are you saying one there was a broken solder joint on the chipset (ULi m1695)? How does this occur after a reboot? God job on the fix









Good luck


Apparently so, I have no clue as to how it could have happened during a hot reboot. I was totally confused because I misremembered the 1695 as having the agp and pci-e on chip. which was driving me nuts as if one worked the other should. But I looked it up again and it is that it allows agp on the same bus and only controls the pci-e. so N2 had offered me a good board at a good price and I found a used replacement for $15 and said well can't hurt to try.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Hueristic, are you saying one there was a broken solder joint on the chipset (ULi m1695)? How does this occur after a reboot? God job on the fix









Good luck


I would think it is similar to the bake your graphics card trick where if the system was able to boot w/that pcie slot say 10 days ago but has been heated up to a point where the soldered joint/s loose contact then after a reboot the joint disables the bios from detecting the slot or chip if it was a power issue. Who really knows what joint failed but either way it was dead and now it's alive again.

Good Job Hue


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I would think it is similar to the bake your graphics card trick where if the system was able to boot w/that pcie slot say 10 days ago but has been heated up to a point where the soldered joint/s loose contact then after a reboot the joint disables the bios from detecting the slot or chip if it was a power issue. Who really knows what joint failed but either way it was dead and now it's alive again.

Good Job Hue










Lets hope it lasts till I get the new board. I'll need your help. I've never owned a 939 DFI.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Lets hope it lasts till I get the new board. I'll need your help. I've never owned a 939 DFI.


I have to copy My Driver disk for you and put a copy of the user manual in there for you. If I had enough ink I would print it out for you so you have it while your setting it up but they can be downloaded PDF format any way. Your gonna love it. I promise. Once you get it all set up and running properly. What kind of DDR Ram do you have to put in it because these boards are very picky w/ram...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


I'll need your help. I've never owned a 939 DFI.


Hueristic, prepare yourself for variety of bios options


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I have to copy My Driver disk for you and put a copy of the user manual in there for you. If I had enough ink I would print it out for you so you have it while your setting it up by they can be downloaded PDF format any way. Your gonna love it. I promise. Once you get it all set up and running properly. What kind of DDR Ram do you have to put in it because these boards are very picky w/ram...


That depends, Should I use the 3800X2 over my 165? 10x sounds good. I think I'll have to run them both. I'm pretty happy with the 280htt I get on the opty with a socket a cooler on there. Yes guys I've been too lazy (as well as swamped) to swap out the cooler.









I think I have to strip all 3 systems and reorder their roles. Right now my main system is the opty165 and I've got the 3800X2 folding and a 6750 (775 so shoot me







) for htpc. Not really the best roles ATM. but I really don't 3d game anymore so It hasn't really bothered me. I'd be putting the corsair 3200 512X2 and generic nanyo 3200 256X2 on the dfi. I was going to put the true on the 165 but that's kind of overkill so I think I'll put it on the 6750 and put the silent 775d on the dfi with whichever cpu gives me the higher OC.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Hueristic, prepare yourself for variety of bios options










Not sure brain can handle any more options these days!


----------



## N2Gaming

I have a quick question regarding SLI adaptors. I don't have the factory SLI adaptor the Hue's gonna be new baby but I have a Tyan SLI Bridge that is identical to the DFI brige. It should not make any difference right. Man now I have to test the board out really good so that I don't sell hue a board w/any defects. Last time I set it up and tested it all seemed good but I did not test every single thing there was to test. I never tested all of the 8 sata ports or all of the rear or internal usb ports and I never tested all of the IDE channels x4







Oh and I never tested the floppy either. Looks like I got my work cut out for me. Still trying to find the right riser sound card and clip to hold it in place. I was testing my Defective Expert w/different sound risers from all of my DFI's trying to get the sound to work on the Expert and I never succeeded. I just want to make sure I don't send the riser for the Venus mobo.









Seriously though Hue what kind of ram do you have to put in this?

Edit: we cross posted about the ram. I don't think it will be happy w/both if you overclock your cpu w/both 2x512 & 2x256 but I was able to run mixed ram in my main SLI DR I used 2x1G DDR400 OCZ platinum and 2x Crucial Balistix DDR500 for a total of 4GB but the system did not like that at all.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I have a quick question regarding SLI adaptors. I don't have the factory SLI adaptor the Hue's gonna be new baby but I have a Tyan SLI Bridge that is identical to the DFI brige. It should not make any difference right. Man now I have to test the board out really good so that I don't sell hue a board w/any defects. Last time I set it up and tested it all seemed good but I did not test every single thing there was to test. I never tested all of the 8 sata ports or all of the rear or internal usb ports and I never tested all of the IDE channels x4







Oh and I never tested the floppy either. Looks like I got my work cut out for me. Still trying to find the right riser sound card and clip to hold it in place. I was testing my Defective Expert w/different sound risers from all of my DFI's trying to get the sound to work on the Expert and I never succeeded. I just want to make sure I don't send the riser for the Venus mobo.









Seriously though Hue what kind of ram do you have to put in this?

Edit: we cross posted about the ram. I don't think it will be happy w/both if you overclock your cpu w/both 2x512 & 2x256 but I was able to run mixed ram in my main SLI DR I used 2x1G DDR400 OCZ platinum and 2x Crucial Balistix DDR500 for a total of 4GB but the system did not like that at all.

Don't worry about testing. I only use 1 sata drive and a few usb ports. also don't worry about sli connector. I will be running [email protected] most of the time and If it won't play on one 9800Gt then I'm not losing sleep over it. Yeah if you accidentally send the Venus I'd me really PO'd!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Hueristic, prepare yourself for variety of bios options










 I've gotten so used to the DFI's BIOS that if I don't have all those options I get







.

Hue, you'll really like the stability the DFI boards offer since their voltage regulation is superior to other boards.

I also have a CFX3200DR if you're interested.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Don't worry about testing. I only use 1 sata drive and a few usb ports. also don't worry about sli connector. I will be running [email protected] most of the time and If it won't play on one 9800Gt then I'm not losing sleep over it. Yeah if you accidentally send the Venus I'd me really PO'd!










I only have 5 of these NF4 SLI DR's







So I don't think I can remeber which one is which.







No I was pulling my hair out almost trying to find the plastic clips that hold the sound card onto the mobo. The one for the venus is perfect and the one your gonna get has a tiny little tab missing but it holds the sound card in place w/no PRO-blem-O... I found them finally thank god. Now my eyes are all tired from the stress. Seriously though I do want to test it out once again just to make sure eveything is hunky dory.







I have the extra SLI bridge and it's not a problem for me. I think they are all made the same. They are not mobo specific but Nvidia specific. Well they are only mobo specific by the spacing of the slots and the extra bridge that I have I got for this mobo so I might as well send it your way so you will have it. You would be supprised what 2x9800GT SLI'd video cards can do.







I just finished burning the Drivers disk. Oh that reminds me I have to PM you. now.


----------



## Blitz6804

All SLI bridges are identical. I am also of the mindset (but I cannot prove this) that a 2-card SLI bridge is identical to a Crossfire bride. The only ones you cannot use interchangeably are the tri-SLI bridges.


----------



## N2Gaming

Yeah the long flexible bridges are good on any mobo but if it's the circuit board type of bridge then the spacing has to match the slot spacing on the mobo.

I'm also thinking I should put the SLI jumpers in the 8x8 mode jumper position so your Grfx cards will run evenly when your folding. Otherside it runs one PCIe at 16x and the other at 1x or 2x or something high low like that. The sli jumpers are a pita to remove and install if you don't have the right tool and the sli jumpers break very easy.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Otherside it runs one PCIe at 16x and the other at 1x or 2x or something high low like that. The sli jumpers are a pita to remove and install if you don't have the right tool and the sli jumpers break very easy.


----------



## N2Gaming

Does any one know if XP is on a CD rom or is it a DVD rom. My back up is scratched and I have to make a new copy and I was trying to burn it to a DVD but my OS said the data was not written for DVD rom format. I guess I can try a regular CD rom. Does any one know. I'm trying to burn a copy of my XP files so that I can test the mobo for installation problems, well to see if there will be any. Oh yeah what sample rate spd should I use when I burn a back up copy of XP.

Thanks,

N2G


----------



## HothBase

N2, All XP versions I have been in contact with have been in CD format.


----------



## Blitz6804

XP is a CD, Vista and Windows 7 are DVDs. Always go with the highest speed you can do without getting errors. If you want to play it safe, keep it around 2x-4x.


----------



## N2Gaming

OK thanks. I was trying 8x when imgburn told me wrong format but it asked me if I wanted it to convert to dvd format on the fly. I was like no not if I don't need to use a DVD. Those things arent cheap and if it's not gonna work then forget that man. Well that's what I told my self any way when it asked if I wanted to convert it to DVD.


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


TestECull, ok so really we're not sure if your processor is really having issues or if it's just your video card/drivers. I'm sure Gmod uses both the video card and processor but it would be nice to see if we can isolate the problem before taking guesses











I already ruled out VGA and drivers, remember? I've mentioned three times now that I used a known good HD4890 to test, and it did the same things in my rig. Same games on it's native rig and no artifacts.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


I've mentioned three times now that I used a known good HD4890 to test, and it did the same things in my rig. Same games on it's native rig and no artifacts.


TestECull, perhaps you're thinking of another thread but all of yours posts (#19461, #19464, #19466, #19468, #19470, #19474) did not state anything about you testing a "*HD4890*" video card. With the 190.17 drivers you said it got a "bit better" so obviously that driver version did effect something. Regardless of that I'm just trying to provide some troubleshooting suggestions.

Perhaps another user here has some suggestions that TestECull would prefer trying?

Good luck


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Perhaps another user here has some suggestions that TestECull would prefer trying?

Good luck


I made a suggestion but Test didn't comment on it.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
and what is 1695, GP & BGA??? sorry I'm a little out of the loope on these acronyms

haha ditto for me! Glad to hear it worked though Hue!


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


TestECull, perhaps you're thinking of another thread but all of yours posts (#19461, #19464, #19466, #19468, #19470, #19474) did not state anything about you testing a "*HD4890*" video card. With the 190.17 drivers you said it got a "bit better" so obviously that driver version did effect something. Regardless of that I'm just trying to provide some troubleshooting suggestions.

Perhaps another user here has some suggestions that TestECull would prefer trying?

Good luck


I swear to god I remember posting that I had done that. I can distinctly remember typing that up in response to this thread. Maybe the forum glitched and put it on another thread, or ate it alltogether?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


I made a suggestion but Test didn't comment on it.



You did? I never saw it.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


haha ditto for me! Glad to hear it worked though Hue!


Woops, GP==general purposes. just means "what the hell, why not".

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


...I also have a CFX3200DR if you're interested.










you can't make me!







I read your and Joe's Woes!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


I swear to god I remember posting that I had done that. I can distinctly remember typing that up in response to this thread. Maybe the forum glitched and put it on another thread, or ate it alltogether?
You did? I never saw it.


Sorry buddy you didn't, I think your loseing it worse than me.









here's the link
http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...ml#post7452409


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


you can't make me!







I read your and Joe's Woes!










 The key to it is.....never turn it off.









Although, it would make for a great folding rig as it was designed with dual slot cards in mind and there's an extra slot between the cards for better cooling.

Speaking of which, I need to hurry up and get my opty 180 on fleabay. They're selling them for $200+!!!!!!!









A little OT: Well fellas I've done did it again. The wife is prego _AGAIN!_ Just found out today. Thought I'd share







.


----------



## simfreak47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


A little OT: Well fellas I've done did it again. The wife is prego _AGAIN!_ Just found out today. Thought I'd share







.


Congrats man!









Even more OT: I'll get to your PM tomorrow, I'm getting ready for bed


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


The key to it is.....never turn it off.









Although, it would make for a great folding rig as it was designed with dual slot cards in mind and there's an extra slot between the cards for better cooling.

Speaking of which, I need to hurry up and get my opty 180 on fleabay. They're selling them for $200+!!!!!!!









* A little OT: Well fellas I've done did it again. The wife is prego AGAIN! Just found out today. Thought I'd share*







.


Is this a congrats moment or not? Some people view it differently ya know







.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *simfreak47*


Congrats man!









Even more OT: I'll get to your PM tomorrow, I'm getting ready for bed










 Thanks Sim. Yeah it's kind of a wall of text. But you should find it very informative.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Is this a congrats moment or not? Some people view it differently ya know







.


 Hey Pio. It's a congrats with me.







Kid #3


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Thanks Sim. Yeah it's kind of a wall of text. But you should find it very informative.









Hey Pio. It's a congrats with me.







Kid #3










Well alright then! CONGRATS BO!!!!


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Well alright then! CONGRATS BO!!!!































+2

Gratz Omega!

But 3 of them?







Tell the one in the middle I feel his pain


----------



## N2Gaming

Sounds like you got good baby batter BO. Congrats. I'm the baby/youngest out of 3 brothers.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Well alright then! CONGRATS BO!!!!































Thansk bro.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


+2

Gratz Omega!

But 3 of them?







Tell the one in the middle I feel his pain










 Thanks Tator. I have an inkling that the one in the middle is going to be the largest physically. He's 6 months old and already is wearing 12-14 month clothing. And he is the size of most 1 year olds' I've seen.
I'm going to try my damnedest to make sure he doesn't get that middle kid syndrome thing.

I'm still debating whether I want to know or not what the sex is. I didn't with the first 2. What if it's a girl







!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Sounds like you got good baby batter BO. Congrats. I'm the baby/youngest out of 3 brothers.










 Thanks N2. I'm the youngest of 2. Me and my bro are 14 months apart so although he was older than me, it felt like we were the same age. 
Come to think of it, my middle boy and this kid are going to be 14 months apart too.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Thanks Tator. I have an inkling that the one in the middle is going to be the largest physically. He's 6 months old and already is wearing 12-14 month clothing. And he is the size of most 1 year olds' I've seen.
I'm going to try my damnedest to make sure he doesn't get that middle kid syndrome thing.

I'm still debating whether I want to know or not what the sex is. I didn't with the first 2. What if it's a girl







!


Well a Younger sister would definitely solve the middle child problem.

Though, I definitely feel that kid now









Older brother = 5'11"
Me = 6'4" (thats another inch from last year







)
Younger Brother = 5'5"


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Me = 6'4" (thats another inch from last year







)


 I use to be 6'4".







to many motorcycle addidents.







I know you don't even have to tell me I already know...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


A little OT: Well fellas I've done did it again. The wife is prego _AGAIN!_ Just found out today. Thought I'd share







.


BlackOmega, congrats man...very exciting!!!

The wife and I will find out this Saturday what ours will be(ultrasound)...I have a feeling it's a boy


----------



## GuardianOdin

woot! Gratz BlackOmega!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I'm late to the party (again), but CONGRATS, B.O.!


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
The key to it is.....never turn it off.

































Quote:

Speaking of which, I need to hurry up and get my opty 180 on fleabay. They're selling them for $200+!!!!!!!








W0W, Talk about Legs!!! These chips are gold.

Quote:

A little OT: Well fellas I've done did it again. The wife is prego _AGAIN!_ Just found out today. Thought I'd share







.
Guess you can't afford to hit on that chick in class!
















Congrats Br0!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
The wife and I will find out this Saturday what ours will be(ultrasound)...I have a feeling it's a boy









WTG! Another generation of 939ers on the way!


----------



## TestECull

My rig's being schizo, I swear. I just played FO3 for six hours straight with nary a hiccup, and absolutely nothing changed from earlier today when it was on a 2 hour unscheduled exit schedule. Only reason I left it at all was because FRAPS crashed and I wanted to restart it, game was running just fine.

Maybe this is one of those bugs that goes away when you stare at vital signs? I do have a second monitor hooked up and have Everest going on it.

O, and Hueristic, your link just linked back to the post you posted the link in?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
A little OT: Well fellas I've done did it again. The wife is prego _AGAIN!_ Just found out today. Thought I'd share







.











IF you have to sell a 939 dual core, I call dibs


----------



## Hueristic

Test, I just checked. That link works.


----------



## TestECull

What's your Post Per Page set to? Mine's on 100 and it just reloads this page. Click the number, not the "permalink", button, it will load only that post. Then, I'll be able to answer your comments.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


What's your Post Per Page set to? Mine's on 100 and it just reloads this page. Click the number, not the "permalink", button, it will load only that post. Then, I'll be able to answer your comments.










Ahh, IC. probally would have been easier for me to retype it, this thread moves fast!









http://www.overclock.net/7452409-post19473.html


----------



## TestECull

lol, yes it does. Also, my computer seems to be healing, Fallout hasn't crashed once today.

Quote:

I'm guessing it has to do with corruption from that mem controller pin. Try a tiny bit of liquid solder on it. Then check your drives for crosslinked files. mem errors will certainly cause those issues.

Hrm....I have been paranoid about that damned pin since I broke it off and managed to luck out with the bread tie core. If I do take the chip out for some reason, I'll probably give a try at resoldering that pin. However, it does work as it is, I don't want to touch it









Also, crosslinked files?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
Also, crosslinked files?

Run CHKDSK for those, I meant that mem cntrler issues will cause drive (filesystem) corruption.

EDIT: On a side note I'm never getting that DFI! N2 is having too much fun playing with it now!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
EDIT: On a side note I'm never getting that DFI! N2 is having too much fun playing with it now!









hah.














back atchu x2


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey all Is USPS the cheapest and best method of shipping. I'm wanting to put this mobo in a flat rate box then ship insured w/delivery confirmation and don't know if they have any boxes big enough to ship it so that the box should it get smoosed in transit has a second box inside w/excess padding to absorb any blows.























Oops sorry for the double down...


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Hey all Is USPS the cheapest and best method of shipping. I'm wanting to put this mobo in a flat rate box then ship insured w/delivery confirmation and don't know if they have any boxes big enough to ship it so that the box should it get smoosed in transit has a second box inside w/excess padding to absorb any blows.























Oops sorry for the double down...

Box in box is best. make sure the board doesn't flop around in the internal box and that one is fully surrounded with packing material.
Not sure what's cheapest? get the weight and check the website?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Box in box is best. make sure the board doesn't flop around in the internal box and that one is fully surrounded with packing material.
Not sure what's cheapest? get the weight and check the website?

The Post office is just down the street from me. I should take my expert mobo down there in the packaging and get a price quote then. I'll do that sometime today after a shower and some more benching.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
...some more benching.

















You addict! Get that Venus up I wanna see that benched!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 







You addict! Get that Venus up I wanna see that benched!

Mannnnn that thing needs a lot of work and I still need to find a really good cheap cpu to test on it. I don't want to kill an expensive cpu. I think my limit is $10.00 and so far from what I have seen here at OCN there is slim to little chance of me getting a $10.00 good cpu w/out any problems i.e. bent/missing pins or other wise one that has not had the hell OC'd out of it.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Mannnnn that thing needs a lot of work and I still need to find a really good cheap cpu to test on it. I don't want to kill an expensive cpu. I think my limit is $10.00 and so far from what I have seen here at OCN there is slim to little chance of me getting a $10.00 good cpu w/out any problems i.e. bent/missing pins or other wise one that has not had the hell OC'd out of it.










I'll send you my 3200+, why didn't you say that earlier!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


I'll send you my 3200+, why didn't you say that earlier!


Thanks hue and it's because I was looking for a 3500+ & up. I guess beggers can't be choosers A. I'm not in a hurry to start soldering







that thing atm.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thanks hue and it's because I was looking for a 3500+ & up. I guess beggers can't be choosers A. I'm not in a hurry to start soldering







that thing atm.










When I go to pick up the board I'll send the chip.


----------



## N2Gaming

Are these scores on par for this set up?

DFI NF4 SLI DR
Opty 180 @ 2.8GHz DDR373 3.3.3.8.2T
2x1G G.Skill 2.5.3.3.6.2T 2.6-2.7v Stock settings
XP Pro X64
36G raptor SATA
2x9800GT OC cards at factory settings.

Here is the Everest Scores










Here is 3dmark06 score w/both cards installed one card in x16 & one in x2 mode.










Here is one card in x8 and the other in x8 Non SLI mode.










and finally here is 2 cards SLI'd in X8 x8 mode.










Would tighter ram timmings give better scores or is it all about cpu spd???

Edit: I also noticed this discrepancy between Everest and ITE smart Guardian. NOTE CPU temps.


----------



## Hueristic

you gotta change that 3.8 to 2.8! I almost fell outta my chair! 
AND empty your PM BOX! I've bee trying to pm you for an hour.








Can you get that mem clocked higher? Even with looser timings I think your bandwidth is being limited there.

Hey guys this is crap review but the only one I could find. And apparently if you get in contact with Newegg it can be ordered.
http://www.ocworkbench.com/2009/asro...hmarked/g1.htm


----------



## HothBase

The everest bench looks normal, I get similar scores around those speeds. The only thing I find odd is the 16x/2x 3DMark06 score... I would expect more, even from a single 9800GT, I don't know what the deal is with the low CPU-score for that run.
The rest looks okay to me...









Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Opty 180 @ 3.8GHz


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*









you gotta change that 3.8 to 2.8!
























Just checking to see if you all are awake... PM box cleaned up a bit so go ahead and send your PM's. Nice find of the ASRock mobo.
Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


The everest bench looks normal, I get similar scores around those speeds. The only thing I find odd is the 16x/2x 3DMark06 score... I would expect more, even from a single 9800GT, I don't know what the deal is with the low CPU-score for that run.
The rest looks okay to me...


























Thanks, well I could tighten up the timings a bit and change the multi and get better ram spd's but I'm trying to max it out w/a 10x mulitplier. I'm just wondering what I can get the mobo to do w/Hueristics Pocessor. I don't think I'll be spending to much more time on it other then to test each port and expantion slot to make sure they are all working.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Are these scores on par for this set up?

DFI NF4 SLI DR
Opty 180 @ 2.8GHz DDR373 3.3.3.8.2T 
2x1G G.Skill 2.5.3.3.6.2T 2.6-2.7v Stock settings 
XP Pro X64
36G raptor SATA
2x9800GT OC cards at factory settings.


N2Gaming, are you able to bump up the divider and try for something higher than 186Mhz? Have you tried a command rate of 1T? As Hue stated I think increasing the frequency would improve your memory "Read" speeds.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, are you able to bump up the divider and try for something higher than 186Mhz? Have you tried a command rate of 1T? As Hue stated I think increasing the frequency would improve your memory "Read" speeds.

Good luck










yeah I have the ram set at 133 if I set it to 140 or 150 it wont do anything past the screen where it says bios or cmos saved right before it goes and boots to windows and instead it reboots and post's all over again. it does it over and over again. there could be a gremlin in the bios that I did not clear out. who knows. I could try to tighten up the timings but have not done it yet


----------



## nategr8ns

Congrats BO and good luck Thinker









edit:
N2, I get (though its been a while) just over 10k with my opty at 2.8ghz, mem at 450-500ish, and a single 8800gt.

I just received two 939 procs, one assumed working and another that randomly reboots. I'm going to use the working one in my old MSI board for my dad to use. I also want to do pin reconstruction on my old 3800+. It is not stable with the pin missing (...). I lost the pin so it is going to be a pain to fix.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Well a Younger sister would definitely solve the middle child problem.

Though, I definitely feel that kid now









Older brother = 5'11"
Me = 6'4" (thats another inch from last year







)
Younger Brother = 5'5"


 Holy smokes that's a considerable height difference between you and your bro's. 
I'm 6'2" and my bro is is 6'4", I have a feeling that all of my kids are going to be pretty tall even though my wife is only 5'0".

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, congrats man...very exciting!!!

The wife and I will find out this Saturday what ours will be(ultrasound)...I have a feeling it's a boy










Thanks thlnk3r. I think I might actually find out with this kid. But we'll see.

Are you nervous to find out what you're having?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


woot! Gratz BlackOmega!


Thanks Odie!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I'm late to the party (again), but CONGRATS, B.O.!


Thanks Joe...... Now you need to hurry up and find yourself a mama so there can be some little Jedi's running around.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


W0W, Talk about Legs!!! These chips are gold.


I know I think I'd better get while the gettin is good.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Guess you can't afford to hit on that chick in class!
















Congrats Br0!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

WTG! Another generation of 939ers on the way!


 Well I told that chick in my class that I'm married the other day and she was like





















"you never said you're married!", to which I replied "you never asked."









And thanks bro. And yeah my oldest boy already knows how to total someones system up. He's messed with my inlaws computers and somehow changed all of his email settings.
















Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Congrats BO and good luck Thinker










Thanks Nate.









N2: Your first run did look really low, especially on the CPU part. Perhaps you had something running in the background.

As for the rest it looks to be ok, other than your memory. It should run @ DDR400 1T w/o issue on that board. Unless the RAM is finicky or something. You got the voltage set right?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Thanks thlnk3r. I think I might actually find out with this kid. But we'll see.

Are you nervous to find out what you're having?

BlackOmega, not all that much. I just want it to be healthy when it's born. I do know one thing, if it's a boy he's not getting my quad-core machine







(that's of course if it's ever built haha)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, not all that much. I just want it to be healthy when it's born. I do know one thing, if it's a boy he's not getting my quad-core machine







(that's of course if it's ever built haha)

LOL I knew there was a reason I'm saving one virgin DFI S939 board and one Opteron 170.







Hopefully one of my kids will pick up the hobby and get to use the kit daddy's saved up for them.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
LOL I knew there was a reason I'm saving one virgin DFI S939 board and one Opteron 170.







Hopefully one of my kids will pick up the hobby and get to use the kit daddy's saved up for them.









Joe, is this the..."golden" Opteron 170 we're talking about here?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, is this the..."golden" Opteron 170 we're talking about here?









If it survives long enough.









But I've got a couple of other mint chips held in reserve.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
If it survives long enough.









Joe, she'll do 3200Mhz on H2O for sure. For that chip it comes down to the board


----------



## HothBase

I forgot! I was supposed to put it in my last post, but congratulations BO!


----------



## N2Gaming

To all Regarding the settings I was trying to run. I have been at it all day trying different ram/cpu voltages dividers timmings and what not. I posted once w/it at FSB 250 x12 for 3.0G and I got greedy and went to try to tighten up the ram timmings and then the fun started all over again. I went as far as pulling my BIOS chip out of my normal mobo w/an older ver bios and changing out the CMOS battery that was at 2.6v to one that is at 3.2v and I'm still at a loss. I'm letting it run memtest overnight to make sure the ram is ok. I put some high volts to the ram. 3.0v+ and cpu went as high at 6.5v







I used the 110% CPU VID and I'm wondering if I may have damaged my ram or CPU. I'll know in a little while if the ram is still any good. I'd rather it be the ram and not a mobo issue. maybe I should set all the CMOS reloaded banks to optimized defaults and set the bios to optimized default then pull the battery for an hour or so. Of course Once I put the Original BIOS chip back in the board it will reset all the CMOS settings To optimum defaults but I just want to make sure there are no gremlins in the board somewhere that I am not aware of before I ship it off. I'm all stressed out now. I promissed a great board and now I have to deliver on my promise.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 







I forgot! I was supposed to put it in my last post, but congratulations BO!

Thanks Hoth!









Sort of OT:

SO I finally got around to tightening my RAM and OCing it a little. What do you guys think?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


cpu went as high at *6.5v*







I used the 110% CPU VID and I'm wondering if I may have damaged my ram or CPU.


Please tell me this is a typo. If not why would any board ever go that high (i don't think the circuit could even go that high)? And if you pushed that through your cpu I can't believe it didn't burn out. My guess is whatever displayed that is dead wrong.

Quote:



...I'm all stressed out now. I promised a great board and now I have to deliver on my promise.










Don't sweat it bro, I'm not that concerned about it. I'm pretty sure it's going to be my HTPC/[email protected] So I won't be gaming on it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


...SO I finally got around to tightening my RAM and OCing it a little. What do you guys think?...


I think you need to OC that htt to really see the benefits. But shouldn't you get your htt/multi max before mem timings? I dunno about PHII's.

Ohh and that line "You never asked" was great! You don't wear a ring?


----------



## HothBase

Hey guys! Since AMD has decided to discontinue the Phenom II X3 720 and most of the retailers I usually buy hardware from were running out of stock, I decided to get one today just to be on the safe side.
This will be the first rig I'm building from scratch (I bought my 939 from my sister, though the case and motherboard are the only parts left of the original setup that I'm still using) and I've got a question: Is it normal for a brand new CPU to have scratches on it, like those from a heatsink? I know that they test all CPUs before packaging, but I want to know what you think.

Here's a picture to show what I mean:








Anyway, I figured that if there's something wrong with it for whatever reason, I've still got warranty, right?


----------



## N2Gaming

BO that looks pretty darn good to me. I like the ram bandwidth for it. What is your NB link at vs your HT link? Oh and you do have more OC headroom beyond stock 2.8GHz on the chip right?

Hue. Thanks I did not get much sleep last night thinking about it.

Edit: Oh regarding the cpu voltage. The stock settings in the bios allow the user to go up to 1.6 or so and then there is an additional setting to push the voltage beyond that. It is an overvolt option and the overvoltage starts at 104% then goes up from there, I had it set to 110%. So I had the voltage set at 1.55v plus 110% overvolt, so it put it at 1.65 or so. It was only in the bios that I saw the voltage when I was checking my settings. I did not boot into windows like that but still when I saw how much 110% overvolted the cpu after F10 save and go back into bios to check my voltages I was like







Oh and the board also has a Ram voltage jumper to select ram voltages behyond 3.2V so you can overvolt the ram pretty high as well. I think this mobo was designed to be the crem dela crem of overclocking mobo's and then DFI one up'd it w/the Expert then once more w/the Venus.

Edit #2: Hoth. My am2 & am2+ cpu's are like that. I think it's a flaw in the mold that they use to make the IHS. My guess is it's extruded copper or something along those lines and the mold is not perfect. So it's possible for the IHS to come out like that. I don't know AMD's specific tollerances in the molds if they are extruded parts but I'd be willing to bet they are and if so then they may have ejector pins or ejector cores to remove the parts from the mold cavities. If the ejetcor pin/s or cores have gasses from the molding process built up on the ejector pins then they wont retract all the way, thus the pins will be molded into the part in that cavity having that specific problem. If it is not out of AMD's acceptable tollerances then they prolly let it slide. Besides it could take a while to repair if the molding plant was to stop the Press, pull the mold and make the proper repairs and if it's a multi cavity mold then you could see how it might stunt production levels for a while. For example if they use a multi cavity mold say 5-10 cavities then the mold could spit out a lot of these IHS's and one or more of them could have small flaws or countersunk edges. This is prolly w/in AMD's Tollerace specifications and not a big enough concern to stop production. I think that IHS is the same one used all the way from Socket A cpu's and if it's not the same from sockety A then it may be the same as the ones used for 939 cpu's. AMD makes a lot of cpu's and the new cpu's have the same size IHS as the older ones. It could also be cuased by back flow or sink when molten material is cooling/solidifying while they are cooling down in the cavity of the mold before the end of the cycle and parts get ejected. When material is multen it is expanded from heat and then when it cools down it shrinks and that may be the case w/this where the corners shrink from cooling sink for lack of the propper terminology.

Hope that helps.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


I think you need to OC that htt to really see the benefits. But shouldn't you get your htt/multi max before mem timings? I dunno about PHII's.

Ohh and that line "You never asked" was great! You don't wear a ring?










I thought the line was a little cliche but the look on her face was precious.








Nope don't wear a ring, force of habit from working on cars. Rings are a liability and could potentially lead to some nasty burns or getting your hand stuck/caught on something. 
I wonder now that she knows I'm married if she'll come on to me even more or cease and desist.









As for why I did the RAM first, I still have the stock cooler on it so I don't want to push the cpu at all until I can get something better on there.
I'm waiting for a reply about using the #3&4 slots as that would take care of my RAM/CPU interference issues and I could slap my Xiggy DK on there. According to the manual, if only running 2 sticks I should use slots 1&2. Why? Who the hell knows, it seems like they're weird like that.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


Hey guys! Since AMD has decided to discontinue the Phenom II X3 720 and most of the retailers I usually buy hardware from were running out of stock, I decided to get one today just to be on the safe side.
This will be the first rig I'm building from scratch (I bought my 939 from my sister, though the case and motherboard are the only parts left of the original setup that I'm still using) and I've got a question: Is it normal for a brand new CPU to have scratches on it, like those from a heatsink? I know that they test all CPUs before packaging, but I want to know what you think.

Here's a picture to show what I mean:








Anyway, I figured that if there's something wrong with it for whatever reason, I've still got warranty, right?










 A lot of the IHS will have scratches like that around the corners from their machining process. All of the AMD cpu's I have bought new have had it to varying degrees.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*









BO that looks pretty darn good to me. I like the ram bandwidth for it. What is your NB link at vs your HT link? Oh and you do have more OC headroom beyond stock 2.8GHz on the chip right?


 So far everything is at stock with the exception of the RAM divider. Stock it sets the ram to 1066. I figure since this RAM is rated for 1866, it should pull 1600 no problem. Which it did. Made my whole rig feel faster. It felt rather sluggish at 1066. Honestly, it felt slower than my 939 rig, although it did play games a hell of a lot better. Way more consistent frame rates.

And yeah I have tons more headroom on this chip. So far it hasn't even seen temps over 43*C at the cores. I'm going to try to keep the temps as low as possible. I'm probably going to lap it when I figure out my cooling situation. It'd be nice if Thermaltake would sell just the brackets for the Big Typhoon.


----------



## N2Gaming

Nice BO. Try to up your NB multi from 9 to 10 or 11 and see what that does for your rambandwidth scores.









Just in, hot off the press.







I can stop stressing now. Turns out this mobo did not like the G.Skill like the Expert mobo did.







Any way look at the scores now
Quote:



Edit: After installing my Ballistix DDR500 ram.


 I like these results much better. The 3dmark06 score is about 1k difference from my am2 X2 5400+ BE cpu's running at 3.2-3.4GHz.


----------



## Hueristic

BO: My money is on her hitting on you even more. Is see said the blind man on why your on stock. AFA what slots to use since time imortal I have always tried to use the slots closest to the cpu unless otherwise stated per manufacturer specs as the closer on the bus the less signal/noise ratio.

N2 That Looks great! I love those bandwidth numbers. Hope you got my PM before ripping it all apart.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey Hue, NP I got your PM and replied w/a modest reply as usual because that's how I roll man. shazam look at this guys.










I was getting so upset becuase I was not able to overclock my cpu the way Hueristic plans to OC his when he gets this board. He is limited to a 10x multiplier and I could not for the life of me get the G.Skill to work for beans the way I know they can in the Expert mobo...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

N2G, great work with that RAM tuning! I like how it illustrates the idea that tight timings are not the only way to get great bandwidth out of RAM with a K8; get that RAM MHz high enough, you can overcome the so-called penalty of looser timings. Great job!









And great job to everyone else, as well. You guys make our Club what it is.







Sorry I'm so scarce lately; I can't do much but peek in and out of here when I'm at work.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


I've got a question: Is it normal for a brand new CPU to have scratches on it, like those from a heatsink? I know that they test all CPUs before packaging, but I want to know what you think.


HothBase, I've had similar markings on some of my processors as well. Apparently it's a normal occurrence. Lapping the IHS would definitely flatten the whole surface and probably get rid of that.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


So far everything is at stock with the exception of the RAM divider. Stock it sets the ram to 1066. I figure since this RAM is rated for 1866, it should pull 1600 no problem.


BlackOmega, those numbers are looking great for STOCK! Question: What do you mean by the memory is rated for "1866"? Stock should be 800Mhz for DDR3-1600









Good luck


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


A lot of the IHS will have scratches like that around the corners from their machining process. All of the AMD cpu's I have bought new have had it to varying degrees.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


HothBase, I've had similar markings on some of my processors as well. Apparently it's a normal occurrence. Lapping the IHS would definitely flatten the whole surface and probably get rid of that.


Thanks for the replies.








Oh, and just to clarify, in my previous post, by "testing" I meant that when they check the CPUs for stability issues, etc. I suppose they'd have to mount a heatsink on it which could explain these markings.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


N2G, great work with that RAM tuning! I like how it illustrates the idea that tight timings are not the only way to get great bandwidth out of RAM with a K8; get that RAM MHz high enough, you can overcome the so-called penalty of looser timings. Great job!










Thanks Joe, I forgot to mention that I swopped out the G.skill ram for my Ballistix DDR500 ram a couple of post's ago and the Ballistix are rated at the looser timings for higher spd's. For some reason the SLI DR don't like this set of G.Skill as much as the Expert mobo does.







I am able to run the G.Skill in the Expert mobo at DDR500 speeds w/the same timings as the Ballistix ram.

I am once again convinced that Hueristic will be quite pleased w/this mobo providing he can get his hands on some decent ram and a stable power supply.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


.. Sorry I'm so scarce lately; I can't do much but peek in and out of here when I'm at work.










You've been scarce?









Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


..I am once again convinced that Hueristic will be quite pleased w/this mobo providing he can get his hands on some decent ram and a stable power supply.










Stop posting those! How am I supposed to blame you if you keep getting awesome OC's???


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Stop posting those! How am I supposed to blame you if you keep getting awesome OC's???









Well I just want to make sure it is a Rock solid board before I ship it to you.

Sorry I guess you don't want to see the screenie of FSB 305 x 10 DDR504 or somthing along those lines.


----------



## Blitz6804

Thlnk3r: He bought DDR3-1866 (933 MHz) RAM, but is only running it at DDR3-1600 right now.

HothBase: My CPUs sometimes look like that from the factory, nothing wrong with it. If it looks much worse than that after having your cooler mounted a while, a lap might be in order.

BlackOmega: Nice RAM bandwidth; as N2Gaming said, bump your northbridge faster for epic increases in RAM bandwidth, and L3 cache too for that matter.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Nice BO. Try to up your NB multi from 9 to 10 or 11 and see what that does for your rambandwidth scores.









Just in, hot off the press.







I can stop stressing now. Turns out this mobo did not like the G.Skill like the Expert mobo did.







Any way look at the scores now I like these results much better. The 3dmark06 score is about 1k difference from my am2 X2 5400+ BE cpu's running at 3.2-3.4GHz.











 Thanks for the suggestion N2. I think I'm going to see how tight I can get the timings before I do that. Just for curiosities sake. It'd be nice if I could achieve 5-5-5-15 timings.

And those are some really nice results on that board. Still shows that 939 rigs are still very capable.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


BO: My money is on her hitting on you even more. Is see said the blind man on why your on stock. AFA what slots to use since time imortal I have always tried to use the slots closest to the cpu unless otherwise stated per manufacturer specs as the closer on the bus the less signal/noise ratio.


 Yeah I am just taking my sweet time OCing this thing. And man I thought my DFI's had lots of memory options. This thing has more







.

I usually do the same thing with the RAM, but this RAM has heat sinks and is rather tall and conflicts with the heatpipes on the BT and it will most definitely get in the way of the Xiggy.

As for the chick, if she starts coming on to me more, this is going to get very interesting.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, those numbers are looking great for STOCK! Question: What do you mean by the memory is rated for "1866"? Stock should be 800Mhz for DDR3-1600









Good luck


 Thanks thlnk3r. And yeah like Blitz said the memory is rated for 933MHz with 8-8-8-24-1T. Here's a review about it from hardware canuks (OMG look at the price!!!).
I'm thinking that at this speed I should be able to tighten up the timings considerably more @ 1600.

Blitz: I'll most definitely do that when I find the timing limits at this speed.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, $475 is a bit insane for RAM no matter the speed in my opinion. Well, unless it were DDR-800, (not DDR2-800) that would be fun to play with.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Thanks thlnk3r. And yeah like Blitz said the memory is rated for 933MHz with 8-8-8-24-1T. Here's a review about it from hardware canuks (OMG look at the price!!!).


BlackOmega, ahhhh ok my apologizes. I saw "1600" in your sig and thought you had purchased DDR3-1600.

Boy that is quite the memory you have there though. That price tag is a killer


----------



## N2Gaming

Don't feel bad Hueristic my memory is fading as well. Here is another shot of your soon to be folding rig.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Yeah, $475 is a bit insane for RAM no matter the speed in my opinion. Well, unless it were DDR-800, (not DDR2-800) that would be fun to play with.

Yeah I saw the price on it and was like







Seems like ZZF either has one hell of a special on them or mispriced them, as I've seen them do with other items like the 965 when they first got it, they priced it @ $209 out right not part of a combo deal.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, ahhhh ok my apologizes. I saw "1600" in your sig and thought you had purchased DDR3-1600.

Boy that is quite the memory you have there though. That price tag is a killer









No apologies needed. It's hard to keep track of all the new hardware everyone is getting.

And yeah I just finished reading the review myself, it looks at my current speed of 800MHz I should be able to get it down to 6-6-5-18 1T w/o issue. I wonder if I should test my luck and go for 5-5-5-15


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, it is also 18 months later now. To assume the price would not come down in that time might be a bit unreasonable. Not to mention things in Canada tend to be more expensive naturally.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Well, it is also 18 months later now. To assume the price would not come down in that time might be a bit unreasonable. Not to mention things in Canada tend to be more expensive naturally.


 Yeah it's out of stock at ZZF now. According to this it's $193. Still horrendously expensive. 
And yeah Canadian's get the shaft when it comes to prices. One of my aunt's and uncles live in Toronto. When they come to visit they're like kids in the candy store, because everything is relatively cheap here.


----------



## eternalenergy311

Do I qualify?


----------



## Blitz6804

Indeed you do eternalenergy311... I will add you to the offsite roster sometime next week, I am currently in the processes of overhauling my computers' operating systems.

Thlnk3r or Txtmstrjoe will add you to the onsite roster in the near future.

Welcome to the club!


----------



## eternalenergy311

So since you guys seem to have this socket 939 OCing buisness about mastered, maybe someone could give me a little advice. Besides the obvious, buy better memory, has anyone had success at getting any better memory timings on Kingston ValueRAM (PC3200 CAS 3.0). I am getting 3-3-3-5-11-2T
at the moment. My overclock is currently limited by this it seems. Any ideas, past expierences, would be great.

Thank You in advance for the help.


----------



## Blitz6804

You might need to reduce your memory divider to DDR-266. You are presently running DDR-423, which might be the limit of ValueRAM, even at 3-3-3-5-11-2T. Consider changing the tRAS from 5 to 8 however just to see.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
You might need to reduce your memory divider to DDR-266. You are presently running DDR-423, which might be the limit of ValueRAM, even at 3-3-3-5-11-2T. Consider changing the tRAS from 5 to 8 however just to see.

This right here is GREAT advice. Lower your memory divider to the next lowest (looks like DDR266 or 133MHz). Honestly, RAM timings and speed matter VERY little. CPU speed is going to make the biggest difference that you'll feel. Once you get your CPU up to speed, then you can tweak your memory as you see fit (most likely just tightening timings).

Also keep in mind, you are running DDR423 right now. With socket 939 and 4 sticks of RAM, you are now running STOCK of DDR333 (memory controller issue with 4 sticks). So bring your memory down, and anything past DDR333 is considered an overclock on your memory.


----------



## eternalenergy311

My divider is currently at 333, I believe. So do you mean try 3-3-3-8 to see if i can OC more, or are you saying reduce to 266, then raise the tRAS to 8? Wouldn't I always want to have the lowest/tightest timings possible? I guess this is the only time I have ever messed with timings so I may be way off?


----------



## Blitz6804

I am saying try tRAS of 8 first, then if you can move no further, change to DDR-266. After you find the point where your HTT can not go up any more, then you can re-tighten the timings.

(Also note, you need not keep your multiplier at 10x. If you can get a faster overall system speed by reducing it, by all means do so.)


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311* 
My divider is currently at 333, I believe. So do you mean try 3-3-3-8 to see if i can OC more, or are you saying reduce to 266, then raise the tRAS to 8? Wouldn't I always want to have the lowest/tightest timings possible? I guess this is the only time I have ever messed with timings so I may be way off?

Lower your divider down to 266. At all bone stock speeds, your RAM will be at DDR333 (instead of 400) because the 939 memory controller can't handle DDR400 with 4 sticks installed.

So lower your divider down, loosen timings to say 3-4-4-8-2T or so...and go for CPU speed. You can tighten your timings later.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


Do I qualify?


Eternalenergy311, you sure do









Welcome to the club. I added your name and overclock to the roster. Let us know if anything changes that way we can make the appropriate changes.

Looks like Blitz and Pio have you on the right track!

Good luck


----------



## eternalenergy311

First of all, thanks for everyones advice thus far. I have managed to get up to 2.75GHZ, air cooled still 40 idle, 53 loaded. timings are at 3-3-3-8 (stock) but I did lower the divider to 266. I am fairly impressed thus far. So do you think I am pushing the temp limit, tighten the timinngs now, or go for 2.8?


----------



## Blitz6804

I would suggest that you keep pushing that HTT as high as it will let you go while maintaining stability and then see where you stand.


----------



## eternalenergy311

So the benchmark program (passmark) started erroring at 2.85GHz, so i went back down to 2.80. I also have tightened the timings back up to 3-3-3-5-11-2T. Memory is set at 266, so I am getting DDR 373, at least thats what memtest86 says, which I am running now (no errors so far.) Passmark score was finally over 900, although it may go up a little with timings turned up now. I guess if memtest passes, no programs error, and i can run Prime95 for "a while", I think I will have an even more successful overclock thanks to your guys help. I never really know how long to run tests like prime 95, or memtest. Any suggestions on that? I really hate to heat the cpu that much for that long for no real good reason. eg; 55-57. I mean yes I game moderatly and run some fairly intense programs at times, do alot of multitasking, but nothing that ever pushes the core temp that high for that long. I feel I have adequate cooling but, don't really want to risk frying the chip anymore than I already am. I know that is a ludacris statement on an overclock forum but...









Thanx again to all.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


I guess if memtest passes, no programs error, and i can run Prime95 for "a while", I think I will have an even more successful overclock thanks to your guys help. I never really know how long to run tests like prime 95, or memtest. Any suggestions on that? I really hate to heat the cpu that much for that long for no real good reason. eg; 55-57.


Eternalenergy311, everyone has there own different methods of stability testing. For Prime95/Orthos some believe 1 hour is sufficient. Personally with those applications I prefer 7-8 Hours (blend). For memtest86+ I typically suggest running tests 5 and 8 each. Try doing at least 3-6 loops.

The above load temperatures you listed are completely fine. That is about the norm for these processors. My Opteron 170 loaded around that temperature. In terms of "frying" your processor I highly doubt that will occur. The worst that could happen would be electromigration but that happens over time. The main cause of that is extreme high voltages with minimal cooling.

Hope that helps


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Eternalenergy311, everyone has there own different methods of stability testing. For Prime95/Orthos some believe 1 hour is sufficient. Personally with those applications I prefer 7-8 Hours (blend). For memtest86+ I typically suggest running tests 5 and 8 each. Try doing at least 3-6 loops.

The above load temperatures you listed are completely fine. That is about the norm for these processors. My Opteron 170 loaded around that temperature. In terms of "frying" your processor I highly doubt that will occur. The worst that could happen would be electromigration but that happens over time. The main cause of that is extreme high voltages with minimal cooling.

Hope that helps











Yes that does help, thank you. I only have my core voltage up to 1.39 at this point. Next step on my board is 1.41, so maybe I will try that at 2.85 or even more and see what happens.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311* 
Yes that does help, thank you. I only have my core voltage up to 1.39 at this point. Next step on my board is 1.41, so maybe I will try that at 2.85 or even more and see what happens.

Eternalenergy311, if temperatures become more of a pressing issue after upping the cpu voltage try a few things like improving case airflow, cable management and lapping the cooler/ihs. You could go as far as buying a new cooler if you feel that your current one is insufficient. The "advertised" maximum operating temperature for this processor ranges between 49-71C. You have some room to grow so don't be afraid.

Good luck


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311* 
Yes that does help, thank you. I only have my core voltage up to 1.39 at this point. Next step on my board is 1.41, so maybe I will try that at 2.85 or even more and see what happens.

Honestly, I would keep your temperatures BELOW 65*C. I've personally had a full load on my X2 (that I had) at 95*C for a full 48 hours...and it was still alive and kicking before I had to sell it. Just keep your temps below 65, and you won't have any problems.

Honestly, I expect you SHOULD be able to pass 2.8GHz with that thing. Keep your memory timings loose for now. Keep bumping voltage up and HTT up (as needed on the voltage). I want to see you hit that magic 3.0GHz. Its a Toledo, so you can expect 2.8-3.0Ghz out of her pretty easily.

Like I said, don't worry about your memory for now. Keep that out of the way by having it clocked as low as possible (DDR266 divider should be fine) and stock timings. We can help you tighten up your timings later...for now, let's get that Toledo up there







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Welcome to the club eternalenergy311, I'm glad to see another 939 breatherer in the club. Looks like you have been taken care of on the OC front by blitz & Pio.







I don't think I can add much to what has been said already other then to reconfirm a few things.

Case air flow management is crucial when it comes to keeping your temps down. The Amb. temps are cooling off depending on what part of the world you live in so that should help w/your overclocks. Cable management will help w/better air flow into and exiting out of your case w/out too much turbulance. You can also use a lazer temperature probe to look for dead air zones inside your case or go high tech and get some military grade thermal imaging hardware...









I think you should just push your chip to see what your max CPU spd is after adjusting your ram timings/dividers. Once you hit a wall on your CPU spd then go for finding how to reduce the heat of your cpu and other internals by any means necessary. You could use a Gheto mod for testing like I did here to reduce system heat. I removed the side cover and replaced it w/cardboard. Then I cut a slot in the side to allow me to adjust the position of my fan to find the optimum placement of my side fan to keep my NB chipset cool.


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Welcome to the club eternalenergy311, I'm glad to see another 939 breatherer in the club. Looks like you have been taken care of on the OC front by blitz & Pio.







I don't think I can add much to what has been said already other then to reconfirm a few things.

Case air flow management is crucial when it comes to keeping your temps down. The Amb. temps are cooling off depending on what part of the world you live in so that should help w/your overclocks. Cable management will help w/better air flow into and exiting out of your case w/out too much turbulance. You can also use a lazer temperature probe to look for dead air zones inside your case or go high tech and get some military grade thermal imaging hardware...









I think you should just push your chip to see what your max CPU spd is after adjusting your ram timings/dividers. Once you hit a wall on your CPU spd then go for finding how to reduce the heat of your cpu and other internals by any means necessary. You could use a Gheto mod for testing like I did here to reduce system heat. I removed the side cover and replaced it w/cardboard. Then I cut a slot in the side to allow me to adjust the position of my fan to find the optimum placement of my side fan to keep my NB chipset cool.








































Thanks for the advice but, I actually completed my case mod before I even attempted to OC this machine. I have 6" 115 CFM/110VAC fan in the side panel sucking in, and a 239CFM/110VAC 6" fan with a 3 speed fan switch
blowing out the front of the case. I fabricated the air grate to fit over 5 vacant 5.25" slots on the front of my case. (its huge). I have access to a machine shop, so the fans came off some old machines control tower cases and the maching of the PC case parts was easy. My case temp runs at about 38-41 C no matter what I do, and I think if i put anymore CFM into this thing it is liable to take off...lol. Attachment 127060

Attachment 127061

Attachment 127062


----------



## thlnk3r

N2Gaming, love the mod man!

Eternalenergy311, wow that's a pretty powerful fan for your intake. I like the mod you did on yours as well. I see a 3com superstack in the second pic


----------



## eternalenergy311

What can I say, its old school, but its reliable. I can honestly say that I have nevr had it actually lock up. Plus it heats the room well and its its own network alarm. The things so noisy you will no right away if it quits working...lol.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, love the mod man!

thanks, Your motivation just gave me an idea. I could make a side window w/a couple of sheets of plexyglass and sandwitch a third glass inbetween the two other sheets of plexy to make a truly adjustable side windowed fan. I have a couple of idea's like that sitting in the back side of my melon that don't ever see the light of day due to lack of funding.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311* 
What can I say, its old school, but its reliable. I can honestly say that I have nevr had it actually lock up. Plus it heats the room well and its its own network alarm. The things so noisy you will no right away if it quits working...lol.

Eternalenergy311, we _had_ one in our staging area at work. Needless to say it saw the trash after years of operation. The fans inside (bearings) started to go out hehe.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
thanks, Your motivation just gave me an idea. I could make a side window w/a couple of sheets of plexyglass and sandwitch a third glass inbetween the two other sheets of plexy to make a truly adjustable side windowed fan. I have a couple of idea's like that sitting in the back side of my melon that don't ever see the light due to lack of funding.









N2Gaming, keep the modding coming man


----------



## BlackOmega

Nice cooling solutions guys. Mine is a lot more simple than that. I just leave the side panel off.







Works very well I must say.

Welcome EternalEnergy.

Well fellas I've been messing around with my RAM some more was finally able to get it stable @ 1600 with 6-6-5-18-1T timings. My rig feels snappy now.

Here's the results


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Well fellas I've been messing around with my RAM some more was finally able to get it stable @ 1600 with 6-6-5-18-1T timings. My rig feels snappy now.

BlackOmega, very nice...CAS 6 at 800Mhz baby!!!

Question about the side panel: With the side panel doesn't that effect airflow and pressure inside the case thus preventing cooling from taking place?


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks BO. I have seen links w/DDR3 systems having Ram scores well over the 10k mark w/7.7.7.21.1T Timings. I'm guessing you will be close to or a little over 10k when you get your CPU, HT link & NB Frequencies moving a little more.









So stop teasing us and get on with it...


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, very nice...CAS 6 at 800Mhz baby!!!

Question about the side panel: With the side panel doesn't that effect airflow and pressure inside the case thus preventing cooling from taking place?


 Not at all, it actually works very well. All of the actively cooled components get an ample supply of nice fresh cool air. That's why the cooler that are parallel to the board work better with the side panel off.

I got a little greedy and went for 5-5-5-15 timings and it didn't like it







Maybe I should pump more juice through the sticks. Although, I've got them @ 2.1v now, they're rated @ 1.9v. But even when I was stress testing them, they didn't even get hot. Fully loaded they only got to 37C.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thanks BO. I have seen links w/DDR3 systems having Ram scores well over the 10k mark w/7.7.7.21.1T Timings. I'm guessing you will be close to or a little over 10k when you get your CPU, HT link & NB Frequencies moving a little more.









So stop teasing us and get on with it...










 Sorry N2.









I'll hopefully be able to do something with my cooling situation tomorrow so I can get down to business. But I'm not touching any of the clocks until I do so. Reason being is that the BT will do wonders and it has a nice CFM fan on it that'll help cool the board.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I got a little greedy and went for 5-5-5-15 timings and it didn't like it







Maybe I should pump more juice through the sticks.


BlackOmega, that is downright low for ddr3 memory


----------



## Tator Tot

@BlackOmega/Thlnk3r:

I think the best he can hope for is ~1500mhz (-/+ 50mhz) with Cas 6.

I'm not sure which IC's those Viper's hold (any chance of nekkid pix?) but I don't think I've seen any DDR3 hit Cas 5 besides a few 1066 Sticks.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey guys. I think all my random problems I have been having lately are caused by my Foxcon mobo. ie. virticle/horazontle lines, funny/weird triangle shapped artifacting while playing Crysis & now some booting wo's...

Every time I turn the computer off and let it sit for a while then try to turn it back on I get a message after it POST's, the system is running is safe mode from an unstable overclock. I even get this message w/all my settings set at stock values. Then this morning w/all my settings at stock my mobo would not even post until I did a clear CMOS. It's getting pretty annoying to say the least...

Any idea's beside file 13 the mobo...


----------



## Tator Tot

Didn't you say before that you were running your current settings off of the P13 BIOS?

Try P14, P15, or P16


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks tator, yes I was running from P13 and when it started giving me the boot problems I switched to P16 and I thought that it took care of the problem for a day any way but this moring I had to clear my CMOS even though all my Settings were at factory speeds.


----------



## Tator Tot

I would contact Foxconn and tell them you had a bad BIOS flash, and have them send you a new BIOS chip.

As that honestly seems like what it is to me.

They are easy to replace, just like the batteries, pop off, pop new one in.


----------



## BlackOmega

Hey what do you guys think is a good memory stress tester that I can run in windows? So far I've only used the S&M memory tester.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hey what do you guys think is a good memory stress tester that I can run in windows? So far I've only used the S&M memory tester.


MemTest 4.0

But the problem with programs that test in windows is they cannot test RAM that is already being used.


----------



## Blitz6804

Prime95 x64v258 works pretty well.


----------



## BlackOmega

Thanks guys I'll give those a shot.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


I would contact Foxconn and tell them you had a bad BIOS flash, and have them send you a new BIOS chip.

As that honestly seems like what it is to me.

They are easy to replace, just like the batteries, pop off, pop new one in.


I guess I could try to flash the backup bios to P16 to see if it makes any difference. I have never flashed the backup bios to this day. I thought I would be better off that way incase I have a bad flash on the primary as you say and yes I had a couple of bad flashes to my primary bios chip. Hue tried to mod a bios for me and that did not work out. So I guess I could blame it all on Hueristic and his reluctancy to like Foxconn.







@Hue

The artifacting and video lines were present before the bad bios flashes. I'll try to reflash the primary bios chip first. Should I clear all of the 8 banks so that there is no corruption or do the cmos memory settings banks make any difference. I mean if I set up a bank on the primary bios chip w/P16 bios and then used the same settings from the P16 bank on the back up bios chip P13 could that corrupt both bios chips???

@BO How about P95


----------



## Tator Tot

@N2 
DO NOT FLASH YOUR BACKUP BIOS! That's a very impractical idea as you have no fault tolerance then.

As I said, Contact Foxconn and have them send you a BIOS Chip for the Destroyer, you may have had a corrupted BIOS from the start, or something from the Original shipping BIOS is still locked up inside.


----------



## N2Gaming

Thnx Tator but you did not answer if I could be having any issues from using saved P16 bios banks on the P13 bios. ???


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Thnx Tator but you did not answer if I could be having any issues from using saved P16 bios banks on the P13 bios. ???

I don't quiet get what you are asking. Sorry, but the wording has me a bit confused.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
@BlackOmega/Thlnk3r:

I think the best he can hope for is ~1500mhz (-/+ 50mhz) with Cas 6.

I'm not sure which IC's those Viper's hold (any chance of nekkid pix?) but I don't think I've seen any DDR3 hit Cas 5 besides a few 1066 Sticks.

Tator, the way the heat sinks are attached makes it impossible to remove them, although in the hardwarecanucks review they seem to think that they're Micron D9GTR/GTS IC's.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Prime95 x64v258 works pretty well.

x32 for me









Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 

@BO How about P95

Running it as we speak.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Tator, the way the heat sinks are attached makes it impossible to remove them, although in the hardwarecanucks review they seem to think that they're Micron D9GTR/GTS IC's.

You can probably nail Cas 6 1475mhz No problem then.

The D9GTR's do well on AM3 builds.
Not the best, but they are pretty good.
GTS's do better, but they are 2x2GB only IIRC.

I know these Crucial Sticks (the GTS's)use them.

Either way, those will do 2.0v pretty easily. Old DDR3 so Voltage isn't so much of an issue as it is now.


----------



## N2Gaming

OK sorry Tator. I'll give you the whole story so you know exactely what I'm talking about.

I origianlly flashed the primary bios from P13 to P16. Then I started to tweek'n my overclock settings. After the tweeking I decided to start saving those tweeks to the 8 different banks in the bios for overclocking.

Then Hueristic tried to unlock some features that are locked in my bios like NB multi. After trying a couple of his mod'd bios's and having none of them work, I ended up having to post using the back up bios in order to reflash the primary bios back to P16 from foxconn.

I started having some problems w/the primary bios after a couple of flashes I decided to start using the backup bios as my regular bios. It has the original P13.

With that in mind I have 8 different CMOS settings saved in the bios somewhere from my Primary bios flashed to ver: P16

So when I decided to start using the P13 bios I also decided to use my saved settings from the 8 banks in the bios that I had saved while using the Primary bios ver: P16.

What I'm asking is would the saved bios settings from P16 corrupt the P13 as well or otherwise creat such problems that I am having?

Is that more clear?









thanks.


----------



## Tator Tot

That's perfect.
And it is a possibility that there is some issue revolving around P16 Profiles sitting on a P13 setup.

As when a new BIOS is out, things are always being changed, and when you save a profile you are basically resaving all the settings from that BIOS.

Well some of those settings might have been in a different place, or not active on P13, so trying to use them could cause instability.


----------



## N2Gaming

OK that makes perfect sense. This morning after resetting my CMOS I made the changes to my settings w/out any of the saved settings. I manually configured the bios, screen by screen. I don't recall if I used the primary or secondary bios though. I guess I could look at everest real quick to tell me what bios I booted with.

Arg, Stupid me. I did not change the bios option to boot from the backup bios so I'm running P16 atm.


----------



## Hueristic

N2, I would not use saved settings from a later bios on a previous one. There may be added features that were set in the newer one that you are loading into a previous that does not have that micro-code.
It is bad practice to use any saved setting from one version to another either way.

BBL Got company.


----------



## Blitz6804

You would suggest I should clear my CMOS Reloaded every time I upgrade BIOS version then?


----------



## BlackOmega

Do you guys think it's weird that my RAM is showing up as 2039MB rather than 2048?


----------



## N2Gaming

Nvm


----------



## BlackOmega

I'm just wondering as I get an intermittent error in memtest. Although, it runs prime95 blend test and S&M's memory test just fine with no errors.


----------



## N2Gaming

Once again. NVM Sorry BO. my heart wants to help but my brain gets in the way. LOL


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Once again. NVM LOL Sorry BO. My heart want to help but my brain gets in the way. LOL


 It's cool bro.









So a little update, I've been running memtest in DOS for the last hour. It's made 4 passes and so far has erred on 2 of them. And it's only 1 error. Not hundreds or thousands like the last bad RAM I tested.


----------



## N2Gaming

Did you run memtest w/stock settings and voltages to make sure your ram is good before overclocking it? If your getting errors from overclocking your ram then that would be my guess as to why your failing P95. I wonder if you will have any errors with stock settings.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Did you run memtest w/stock settings and voltages to make sure your ram is good before overclocking it? If your getting errors from overclocking your ram then that would be my guess as to why your failing P95. I wonder if you will have any errors with stock settings.


 Nope haven't run it at stock, well stock for this RAM is DDR3 1866 with 8-8-8-24 timings. 
I'm trying to run it at DDR3 1600 with (at the moment) 7-7-7-20 timings.

And see the weird thing is that it passed prime95 for ~2hours. It also passed S&M's memory test, 100% load, long. But memtest erred out on the 2nd pass, then the 3rd, but the 1st and 4th, no error.









I was reading over at the GD70 owners thread that the newer BIOSes allow for tighter timings. I think I might have to flash it.


----------



## Blitz6804

You should not be getting any errors at all BlackOmega. What are some of the SPD settings of the RAM? Can you try one of those and see if you get errors?

As to why 11 MB of RAM is "missing," that should not be a problem. Do you have "System BIOS cacheable" enabled in your BIOS? If so, that would certainly explain it. A 32-bit system should not have a problem with your cards in crossfire, but one never knows. For fun, try removing a card and see if more RAM is visible. I know personally that some RAM is always "missing" in Vista and Windows 7 (one computer of mine shows 4093, the other 4094) even though both are running 64-bit operating systems. I do not remember if XP Pro x64 did it as well, but I currently cannot boot to that OS and check. (Broken loader, I have been too lazy to replace.)


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
You should not be getting any errors at all BlackOmega. What are some of the SPD settings of the RAM? Can you try one of those and see if you get errors?

Well that's the weird thing, its on pass 5 now, and it's only erred on 2 of them. And like I said before it's 1 error. Every other bad overclock or bad RAM that I've tested had thousands and one even had millions of errors.
I'll try dialing it back to 1333 and see what happens after this pass.

And while I'm in there I'll see if cachable BIOS is enabled. I don't think it is though.


----------



## N2Gaming

I'm still trying to figure out where windows is reporting 2039. I used Task manager to look at total system ram and divided it by 1024 to come close to 4096? Where are you able to look and see the amount of ram in MB not GB?


----------



## Blitz6804

N2Gaming: Right-click "My Computer" and hit properties.

BlackOmega: I had 12 errors on three passes; G.Skill told me I should have 0 at stock, and RMAed the kit.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey blits I don't get MB readings in xp x64 when I do that. I only get GB. See.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


You would suggest I should clear my CMOS Reloaded every time I upgrade BIOS version then?


Blitz6804, absolutely









Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hey blits I don't get MB readings in xp x64 when I do that. I only get GB. See.


N2Gaming, I don't think there is anywhere in Windows were it'll report the memory size in "megabytes". Of course I could be wrong but I've personally have never seen that.

BO, if you're getting errors in memtest then I'd return the kit. Have you tried tests 5 and 8? I'm curious to see what those tests report.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks thln3r, I'm trying to figure out how BO was able to do the following in the this qoute.
Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Do you guys think it's weird that my RAM is showing up as 2039MB rather than 2048?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thanks thln3r, I'm trying to figure out how BO was able to do the following in the this qoute.


N2Gaming, perhaps at POST or in the memtest diagnostic? Shouldn't be a huge deal if it's showing a few megabytes off


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, perhaps at POST or in the memtest diagnostic? Shouldn't be a huge deal if it's showing a few megabytes off










Oh ok thanks. I'm not saying your wrong but I just found this in everest. Oh you can also see my ram bandwidth scores of less then DDR2-800 w/a decent fsb overclock.







I don't know why but my x2 cpu's get faster latencies then my Ph II does. Maybe that will change if some day I have the option to overclock my NB frequency.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


BlackOmega: I had 12 errors on three passes; G.Skill told me I should have 0 at stock, and RMAed the kit.


 Ok I just ran 2 passes @ 1333 6-6-5-18-1T no errors. I'm trying 6-5-5-16-21-1T and we'll see how it goes.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BO, if you're getting errors in memtest then I'd return the kit. Have you tried tests 5 and 8? I'm curious to see what those tests report.

Good luck


 Thlnk3r, I ran the full test. The errors occurred during test 4.

As reported above everything @ 1333 is ok. So that is leading me to believe that this might be a limitation of the architecture. Isn't anything above 1333 considered an overclock when using PHII's?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
As reported above everything @ 1333 is ok. So that is leading me to believe that this might be a limitation of the architecture. Isn't anything above 1333 considered an overclock when using PHII's?

Well it's good to know that your ram passes at stock spd's. I'm not sure about the AM3 ram spd limitation but *here is a good article* that compares several different am3 x4 955 DDR3 spd's ranging from DDR3-800 to DDR3-1600. In the end the conclusion is that the difference between DDR3-1333 vs DDR3-1600 is negligable at best but there is also a chart at the end of the article that shows more improved spd's when the cpu was overclocked to x4 965 spd's. oh and at the time of the article there was no x4 965









Edit: I'm wondering if you ram controller in the cpu is to blame. Are you overclocking your fsb or just using the dividers available to you in your bios?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Oh ok thanks. I'm not saying your wrong but I just found this in everest.

N2Gaming, wow I use Everest quite a bit and I just now noticed that haha. Thanks buddy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
As reported above everything @ 1333 is ok. So that is leading me to believe that this might be a limitation of the architecture. Isn't anything above 1333 considered an overclock when using PHII's?

BlackOmega, don't quote me on this but I believe ddr3-1600 is the highest for Phenom II (AM3).

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Well it's good to know that your ram passes at stock spd's. I'm not sure about the AM3 ram spd limitation but *here is a good article* that compares several different am3 x4 955 DDR3 spd's ranging from DDR3-800 to DDR3-1600. In the end the conclusion is that the difference between DDR3-1333 vs DDR3-1600 is negligable at best but there is also a chart at the end of the article that shows more improved spd's when the cpu was overclocked to x4 965 spd's. oh and at the time of the article there was no x4 965









Edit: I'm wondering if you ram controller in the cpu is to blame. Are you overclocking your fsb or just using the dividers available to you in your bios?

Thanks for that article I'll have to check it out.

I haven't touched the NB at all. I'm just using the dividers available.
And I'm starting to wonder the same thing about the controller. IIRC, 1333 is the official limitation, but I'm 100% on that.
So far @ 1333, I can run timings of 6-5-5-16-1T no problem. 2 passes so far error free.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, don't quote me on this but I believe ddr3-1600 is the highest for Phenom II (AM3).

Good luck


 According to this Phenom II product data sheet, the PHII's only support up to DDR3-1334 officially.

At any rate, I dropped it down to 1333 and got my timings as tight as the BIOS allows with the exception of CAS 5. This RAM just wont run it.









Anyway here's a screen shot. The read and copy are ~300MB/s slower than DDR1600 with the 6-6-5-18 timings. But at 1333 it's totally stable with no errors (6-5-5-15-1T).


----------



## N2Gaming

So I'm guessing your having to much fun testing your ram and have not got to the big Typhoon yet?

Hey would any of you pay $3.99 for Call of Juarez?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


So I'm guessing your having to much fun testing your ram and have not got to the big Typhoon yet?

Hey would any of you pay $3.99 for Call of Juarez?


 Lol yep been too busy messing with the RAM to get around to the BT







.

And hell yeah I'd pay $4 for a game. Even if it sucks it was only $4.









Is there a deal on steam or something?


----------



## Blitz6804

Sorry about that N2Gaming, the only XP system I have used lately is my Barton, which actually shows the RAM in MB:










Maybe Windows XP only shows if under 1024 MB? You will note that if you do the math on the KB, it comes to only 894.4 MB.

Windows 7 (and Vista for that matter) show GB as well in the System information, but instead of KB in the task manager, show MB.










In order to run XP, you only need a scant 64 MB (256 MB for Pro x64), so I guess KB made more sense. Windows Vista requires 512 MB (if you want Home Basic x86; anything else needs 1024 MB), and Windows 7 requires 1024 MB (2048 MB for x64), so I guess KB starts to get long in the tooth.

In case you are curious, Windows 7 dislikes single-drive configurations. I have a 32mb Cache, 7200 RPM drive, and I get a 5.9 in Windows Experience Index. My next weakest is my graphics performance at 7.1.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Lol yep been too busy messing with the RAM to get around to the BT







.

And hell yeah I'd pay $4 for a game. Even if it sucks it was only $4.









Is there a deal on steam or something?

OK then you may be interested in this old thread I started a while back. Here is a direct link to the online game/dvd movie deals.









BTW I have purchased a stack of games from them in the past for the price of one current game and I still have not got around to trying all of the games yet.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


OK then you may be interested in this old thread I started a while back. Here is a direct link to the online game/dvd movie deals.









BTW I have purchased a stack of games from them in the past for the price of one current game and I still have not got around to trying all of the games yet.











Wow! Those are some nice prices. So are you buying an actual retail copy of the game or a download?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Wow! Those are some nice prices. So are you buying an actual retail copy of the game or a download?


No they only sale brand new retail sealed BNIB games & movies Oh and they may sell some used titles as well but they would be listed in the used titles section. Only down fall is s/h but it's not that bad and if you buy a couple of movies and games totaling over $25.00 you save 15% on s/h fees.







I got like 7 or so games the first time I ordered from them.

I just finished playing the call of Juarez 2 Bound by blood and it seems pretty cool to me. but I also like country music and the old wild west kind of seenery.







I DL COJ2/BBB on steam last night. I played it today and finished the demo in about less then an hour or so. My GF liked it enough to say she thinks it's worth $10.00. I know I saw the original call of Juarez at walmart for either $10.00 or $20.00 but my member fails me atm. either way you can get it here for $3.99 and a couple of other games for the price of one. check it out. It's a legit company and I would not tell you to go for it if it was not.









Edit: I'll go try to dig up my receipt and tell you what I got and how much the title was. Oh wait that info may be in the thread I linked.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey BO. don't buy any thing from them until I can find my receipt. for some reason I am not able to log into my account. I may have maid a purchase from a different company and am confusing it with this company. I'll go look for the receipt right now.


----------



## DesertRat

N2, Do they accept paypal? I can't seem to find it on their site. I was thinking about buying X3 or painkiller, but the only money I have available is in my paypal.


----------



## BlackOmega

Well there's a few games on there I wouldn't mind getting. Probably some movies too. I wonder how much shipping is.









And seeing all of the French titles they have, makes me wish I spoke French.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Sorry about that N2Gaming, the only XP system I have used lately is my Barton, which actually shows the RAM in MB:










Maybe Windows XP only shows if under 1024 MB? You will note that if you do the math on the KB, it comes to only 894.4 MB.

Windows 7 (and Vista for that matter) show GB as well in the System information, but instead of KB in the task manager, show MB.










In order to run XP, you only need a scant 64 MB (256 MB for Pro x64), so I guess KB made more sense. Windows Vista requires 512 MB (if you want Home Basic x86; anything else needs 1024 MB), and Windows 7 requires 1024 MB (2048 MB for x64), so I guess KB starts to get long in the tooth.

In case you are curious, Windows 7 dislikes single-drive configurations. I have a 32mb Cache, 7200 RPM drive, and I get a 5.9 in Windows Experience Index. My next weakest is my graphics performance at 7.1.


It's funny to me a Socket A should be mentioned about now. I'm setting up one with WC'ing tomorrow to see how high I can push it here. 
You know what that means....









I also have to say my Win 7 experience has been good so far. Even the Socket A machines can run it without the slowdown experienced in Vista. Overall I believe it's going to be great once all the bugs are worked out.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey Kryton. I'd like to see what you do w/the socket at shtuff.








Quote:


Originally Posted by *DesertRat* 
N2, Do they accept paypal? I can't seem to find it on their site. I was thinking about buying X3 or painkiller, but the only money I have available is in my paypal.

Yes they accept paypal. select a title and put it in your cart. Then click on check out. It should have a paypal option for payment type. But I can't remeber if it was this place or Gogamer or another sight I bought a bunch of games from for really cheapsies.







I'm digging into it. I sent inet a email for online chat but I'll prolly end up calling them tomorrow to see if it was in fact them or some one else I bought the games from.

I tried to find my receipt in the several differernt stacks of papers I have all over the place and could not find it. I may be able to find it in an email if it was not on one of my seagates that died. I would be looking on my sli dr daily drive rig in the emails right now but I have it down. I put BNBB in the place where it sits to hook BNBB to my 19" monitor to see if my video artifacting, virticle/horazontle lines still appear on my 19" LCD monitor like it does on my 40" samsung LCD 1080P TV.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Well there's a few games on there I wouldn't mind getting. Probably some movies too. I wonder how much shipping is.









And seeing all of the French titles they have, makes me wish I spoke French.

I noticed a couple of game is French as well. some of the Tom Clancies titles are in french.

Here is a link to Gogamer for cheap games as well. I don't recall who I bought the games from so you might want to wait on it a bit until I can figure it out. I don't want any one being mad at me for stearing them wrong on this one.


----------



## Wildcard36qs

Hey BlackOmega (BO). I have similar ram timings. I got GSkill ripjaws 1600 CL7 supposedly at 1.6v. I have tried to run them at spec but the system is just not stable. I can run games and benchmarks at 1600 with 8-8-8-24, but memory tests fail and large rar files always are corrupt. I got mine down to 6-6-6-18 @ 1333 1.6v and my speeds are nearly identical to yours.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Wildcard36qs* 
Hey BlackOmega (BO). I have similar ram timings. I got GSkill ripjaws 1600 CL7 supposedly at 1.6v. I have tried to run them at spec but the system is just not stable. I can run games and benchmarks at 1600 with 8-8-8-24, but memory tests fail and large rar files always are corrupt. I got mine down to 6-6-6-18 @ 1333 1.6v and my speeds are nearly identical to yours.

Hey Wildcard.









If your ripjaws are CAS 7 @ 1600, you should be able to get almost the exact same timings I have (6-5-5-15-20(tCD) @ 1T). Hell yours might even be able to do CAS 5 @ 1333 mine can't. Although, I have read that the new BIOS revisions for my board support tighter timings.

Have you tried running your RAM @ 1600 with 8-8-8-24-32-1T timings?

As for the failures, it's kind of odd really. It passed 2 hours of prime95 blend test, and 100% load, long test in S&M v1.9.1, yet erred out with 6-6-5-18-23-1T using memtest86 v4.00. Hell it erred out @ (1600) 7-7-7-20-27-1T.


----------



## N2Gaming

OK guys. First let me appologize for the confusion on my part. I have never ordered from inet but I have ordered from GoGamer in the past. I was able to find the email order confirmation. The prices don't seem to be much worse then inets prices but never the less there is a member claiming to have purchased a couple of dvd movies from inet so I don't see why they would not be any good. I would think if your really concerned about it then PM the member who bought the movies in the thread that I linked about inet to see what kind of experience he had w/inet and if they were BNIB. Any way I'm sorry once again and here is a copy of my email confirmation from GoGamer.com.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Wildcard36qs*


Hey BlackOmega (BO). I have similar ram timings. I got GSkill ripjaws 1600 CL7 supposedly at 1.6v. I have tried to run them at spec but the system is just not stable. I can run games and benchmarks at 1600 with 8-8-8-24, but memory tests fail and large rar files always are corrupt. I got mine down to 6-6-6-18 @ 1333 1.6v and my speeds are nearly identical to yours.


This is actually because of the IC's of the G.Skill Ripjaws. They do not play nice with AM3 IMC's.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


At any rate, I dropped it down to 1333 and got my timings as tight as the BIOS allows with the exception of CAS 5. This RAM just wont run it.









Anyway here's a screen shot. The read and copy are ~300MB/s slower than DDR1600 with the 6-6-5-18 timings. But at 1333 it's totally stable with no errors (6-5-5-15-1T).


BlackOmega, have you tried max VDimm yet (1.9v)? Sorry I can't remember if you talked about your memory voltage.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


In case you are curious, Windows 7 dislikes single-drive configurations. I have a 32mb Cache, 7200 RPM drive, and I get a 5.9 in Windows Experience Index. My next weakest is my graphics performance at 7.1.


Blitz6804, eh I wouldn't really use that to gauge system performance. Is it fast enough for you? If yes then I wouldn't worry about it









Good luck

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


According to this Phenom II product data sheet, the PHII's only support up to DDR3-1334 officially.


EDIT: BlackOmega, yep you're correct sorry about that. Anything higher than ddr3-1333 and a overclock is required.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, have you tried max VDimm yet (1.9v)? Sorry I can't remember if you talked about your memory voltage.

Yep, I've had it as high as 2.1v. I'm happy with the timings I've been able to achieve with this thing. Although CAS 5 would be nice. But I'm still getting to know the intricacies of this board.

Messing around with the 4th core. Once enabled, coretemps no longer appear







. I get an IHS reading but it seems inflated. @ 1.36v according to everest, it's idling @ 48C.
I'm going to try an undervolt if at all possible and see if I can keep the temps low enough to stress the 4th core.










Here's the validation.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey BO are yo able to see the correct temps again if re dissable the 4th core again?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hey BO are yo able to see the correct temps again if re dissable the 4th core again?


 Yep coretemp works just fine once again.


----------



## N2Gaming

cool. I'm going bonkers trying to get NFS/HS working again. I hate installing this game. It's one hell of a PITA for sure.


----------



## Blitz6804

I miss my Need for Speeds (2, 3, 4). The last computer I had that could run them sported an x1950 XGE. After that, the games would not play at all unless they could get patched, and EA told me they were never going to release compatibility patches. The fix was to buy Hot Pursuit 2 if I wanted to play Need for Speed again. (Newest at the time, I DID play it, and in my opinion, it stunk.)


----------



## N2Gaming

Well I finally got it working. It's weird because the game won't run from the shortcut or link on the start up link in the startup programs but it will run just fine if I click on the 4.50 patch.exe


----------



## Blitz6804

Software emulated or hardware accelerated?


----------



## N2Gaming

hardware using the Direct 3D.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Messing around with the 4th core. Once enabled, coretemps no longer appear







. I get an IHS reading but it seems inflated. @ 1.36v according to everest, it's idling @ 48C.
I'm going to try an undervolt if at all possible and see if I can keep the temps low enough to stress the 4th core.

BlackOmega, this is typical when unlocking disable core(s). Same thing occurs on the 550BE. From all the reading I've done, the core temperatures are usually few Celsius below the "cpu" temp (IHS level). Of course you have to then figure with additional cores unlocked the TDP goes up as well. If you decide to start overclocking then it goes more. Make sure you perform plenty of stability testing with the 4th core unlocked.

Good luck


----------



## eternalenergy311

So I still can't get this system up over 2.8Ghz stable. My memory is at stock timings, 266. I even tried the suggestion from pioneerisloud to back them off to 3-4-4-8. System will boot at 2.85, and load windows but, will crash in benchmark testing. At 2.90 it won't even boot windows but, it will post and attempt it. Currently I am at 1.41v...I have tried 1.43v on both the above clocks, and still no go. More voltage, back of timings even more, drop the divider down to 200? What do you guys think?


----------



## Blitz6804

Do you have Spread Spectrum disabled in the BIOS?


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


So I still can't get this system up over 2.8Ghz stable. My memory is at stock timings, 266. I even tried the suggestion from pioneerisloud to back them off to 3-4-4-8. System will boot at 2.85, and load windows but, will crash in benchmark testing. At 2.90 it won't even boot windows but, it will post and attempt it. Currently I am at 1.41v...I have tried 1.43v on both the above clocks, and still no go. More voltage, back of timings even more, drop the divider down to 200? What do you guys think?



what is your mutiplier? & is it locked?(multiplier)


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Do you have Spread Spectrum disabled in the BIOS?


not even sure what or where in bios that is? What does that setting control?


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMOCO*


what is your mutiplier? & is it locked?(multiplier)


10x, i can go down but not up.


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


not even sure what or where in bios that is? What does that setting control?


thats on intel based boards not amd boards


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMOCO*


thats on intel based boards not amd boards


thanks, that would explain why i am not familiar with it


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


10x, i can go down but not up.



ok,you can play with it to get a better oc,& do u know how to do the math on amd cpu's?

for example my cpu mutiplier is 10 by default,but i have it set to 9.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMOCO*


thats on intel based boards not amd boards


Not true. Spread Spectrum is on AMD boards.

If you can find ANY spread spectrum options, disable them. Also make sure cool n quiet is disabled.


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Not true. Spread Spectrum is on AMD boards.

If you can find ANY spread spectrum options, disable them. Also make sure cool n quiet is disabled.


didn't know that,cause its on my intel & not my amd


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMOCO*


ok,you can play with it to get a better oc,& do u know how to do the math on amd cpu's?

for example my cpu mutiplier is 10 by default,but i have it set to 9.


for the most part yes, HTT x multi I believe. I fear that i may hit my memory limition though?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


for the most part yes, HTT x multi I believe. I fear that i may hit my memory limition though?


There's no such thing as a memory limitation since you've ALWAYS got another divider you can use. You can drop your memory down to DDR200 (100MHz), and you'll be good up to 400 HTT with DDR400 memory installed.

Like I said the other day, CPU speed matters much MUCH more than memory speed and timings. Memory speed and timings matter, just not nearly as much as CPU speed.

If you can't seem to pass 2.8GHz, then try to stabilize it there. Mess with your HTT and memory speeds a little too. Try to find a nice spot where you can have good memory speed (around DDR400) and still have your 2.8GHz clock.


----------



## AMOCO

here is how i have mine setup::
9 x 312 = 2808
9 / .66666 =13.5(14) round up
2808 / 14 = 200.5 x 2 = 401(ram speed)
4 x 312 = 1248


----------



## eternalenergy311

I do not find any settings on my board, Abit-KN8, bios ARE most current. Of course not sure exactly what it might be called other than "speed spectrum" or where in AWARD bios it may be?


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311* 
I do not find any settings on my board, Abit-KN8, bios ARE most current. Of course not sure exactly what it might be called other than "speed spectrum" or where in AWARD bios it may be?


then it's not on your board


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311* 
I do not find any settings on my board, Abit-KN8, bios ARE most current. Of course not sure exactly what it might be called other than "speed spectrum" or where in AWARD bios it may be?

Its been far too long since I've messed with an Abit board. The spread spectrums could be your limitation, and they could not be as well. I mean my Opty 165 ran at 3.0GHz all day with Spread Spectrum and Cool N Quiet (granted it was a 3.1GHz stable chip).

Like I said, 2.8GHz isn't really a "bad" clock. That's actually quite impressive for a 2.0GHz chip. I would personally try to stabilize there, and maybe try it at 312 x 9 with the 266 RAM divider (puts you at DDR401), and a 3x HT Link.

Your chip seems to be quite voltage hungry, so it might take close to 1.50v to get it up any higher. So that's ultimately up to you and how comfortable you are sending higher voltages through it. If you want a higher clock speed, you might need to up your voltage some.

Also, make sure your HT Link isn't the problem too. It should be at or right around 1000Mhz (anywhere between 800-1100Mhz is generally okay).


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Its been far too long since I've messed with an Abit board. The spread spectrums could be your limitation, and they could not be as well. I mean my Opty 165 ran at 3.0GHz all day with Spread Spectrum and Cool N Quiet (granted it was a 3.1GHz stable chip).

Like I said, 2.8GHz isn't really a "bad" clock. That's actually quite impressive for a 2.0GHz chip. I would personally try to stabilize there, and maybe try it at 312 x 9 with the 266 RAM divider (puts you at DDR401), and a 3x HT Link.

Your chip seems to be quite voltage hungry, so it might take close to 1.50v to get it up any higher. So that's ultimately up to you and how comfortable you are sending higher voltages through it. If you want a higher clock speed, you might need to up your voltage some.

Also, make sure your HT Link isn't the problem too. It should be at or right around 1000Mhz (anywhere between 800-1100Mhz is generally okay).


thanks for explaining that,i can not type so fast,lol


----------



## Blitz6804

Some boards hide some features, most notably, Gigabyte. For fun, try pressing CTRL+F1, it might make the option visible. For the record AMOCO, Spread Spectrum has been on every AMD board I have owned from Socket A until my present AM2+. I usually leave it on, until I discovered my DFI will not let me run over a 250 MHz HTT with it enabled.


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Some boards hide some features, most notably, Gigabyte. For fun, try pressing CTRL+F1, it might make the option visible. For the record AMOCO, Spread Spectrum has been on every AMD board I have owned from Socket A until my present AM2+. I usually leave it on, until I discovered my DFI will not let me run over a 250 MHz HTT with it enabled.


tried the control F1 while in bios, is this what you mean? or at the post screen. Where have you usually found it in BIOS? I'm not saying its eb\\ven there, just want to make sure I manot overlooking something.

Anyways, I have trie dlowering my multiplier as mentioned by others, and the highest I can get is 300 x 9, 2700mhz. I am able to get 290 x 10 with the divider down to 200 instead of 266.. Gonna mess with that for a while.


----------



## eternalenergy311

so what about my nforce4 voltage, and my Hypertransport voltage. should I even mess with them?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


so what about my nforce4 voltage, and my Hypertransport voltage. should I even mess with them?


NF4 voltage would be chipset voltage. You could try upping that....that will most likely help you hit higher HTT speeds.

Hypertransport Voltage is your HT Link Voltage. You should only need to increase that if your HT Link is over 1000MHz.


----------



## eternalenergy311

Well, thanx again for everyones advice but, still no better than 2.80ghz stable. Still at stock timings, still at 266, time to try and tighten up the timings I guess. Currently at 3-3-3-8-11-2T, voltage is at 2.70. CPU voltage is at 2.43, runs at 2.41 but more stable at 2.43.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ktmrida4life* 
How much is my sig rig including monitor but excluding the video card worth?

You need to make an appraisal thread to get information like that. And in order to be able to post a new post in the marketplace, you need 35 rep.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, this is typical when unlocking disable core(s). Same thing occurs on the 550BE. From all the reading I've done, the core temperatures are usually few Celsius below the "cpu" temp (IHS level). Of course you have to then figure with additional cores unlocked the TDP goes up as well. If you decide to start overclocking then it goes more. Make sure you perform plenty of stability testing with the 4th core unlocked.

Good luck











 Well the good thing is that with what little testing I could do (about 2 minutes) it was totally stable. Unfortunately, I didn't get the good heatsink with my chip (the one with the heatpipes) I just got the single core athlon looking one. So at the moment I'm in the process of lapping the 720 (taking a break from it







), and I think I'll be able to fit the Big Typhoon on there without the custom bracket. I'll keep you guys posted.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Hey Kryton. I'd like to see what you do w/the socket at shtuff.










OK - Here it is:
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=792331


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


OK - Here it is:
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=792331










whaaa







I did not know you could run DDR400 on socket A systems! Nice OC on that XP chip. I have heard bad things about those chips not being compatible w/win XP but I can't remember the exact reason behind the story... I bought a couple of XP Pro X64 copies from a IT guy in Sacramento and he was telling me something about it but I don't remember the specifics. Maybe there was a update or patch that required the cpu to run correctly, IDK.

Good Job Kryton, thanks for sharing.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


OK - Here it is:
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=792331










Kryton, wow man that is awesome. What are your temperatures like?

Eternalenergy311, your 2.8Ghz overclock is excellent especially for Socket 939









For these processors that overclock (in my opinion) is slightly above average so great job. By the way I checked out the manual for your board and didn't see anything on, "Spread Spectrum". Looks like it's not listed in your bios. Did you check to see if "Cool'n'Quiet" was in fact disabled? Sorry I don't recall you mentioning that.

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Question for anyone who has an informed opinion on the matter: Will it hurt to mount the GA-MA790FXT-UD5P upside down inside the case?

I know that the very first heatpipe-cooled motherboards (such as the ASUS A8N32-SLI Deluxe) didn't like it very much if they were mounted in a case such as the Lian Li PC-V2000B (or any other PC-Vxxxx series Lian Li, for that matter), where the motherboard is upside down from the normal ATX orientation (CPU socket in the upper section, expansion slots on the bottom).

Thoughts? Opinions?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Question for anyone who has an informed opinion on the matter: Will it hurt to mount the GA-MA790FXT-UD5P upside down inside the case?


Joe, I found this OLD thread on Hardforum that has someone asking the same question about their Lian-Li V1000: http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1089370.

Interesting read there


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Eternalenergy311, your 2.8Ghz overclock is excellent especially for Socket 939









For these processors that overclock (in my opinion) is slightly above average so great job. By the way I checked out the manual for your board and didn't see anything on, "Spread Spectrum". Looks like it's not listed in your bios. Did you check to see if "Cool'n'Quiet" was in fact disabled? Sorry I don't recall you mentioning that.

Good luck

yes, cool and quiet is disabled. i was hoping the "spread spectrum" was there, and that it was the problem. Oh well I am fairly satisfied with what I have. got the timings down to 3-3-3-8, they don't seem to want to do much better either.

sorry i mean 3-3-3-5-11-2T


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
OK - Here it is:
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=792331










I have the same motherboard and CPU *well it's not xp-m* What are your settings at? Also what are your temps? I have some coolermaster heatsink. It isn't to bad but i can always point my 120mm pally at it


----------



## eternalenergy311

prob not the best place for this post but....I am considering upgrdaing my OS drive to SSD. I would love go with a low capacity 1X pci express type. Maybe 32 gigs. Has anyone done this, and with what level of performance gain. Currently my OS is running on a berracuda 7200, only like 8mb cache.


----------



## Blitz6804

The guys to ask about hard drives are Tator Tot and Thlnk3r. In my opinion though, you should likely see an improvement upgrading to even a 16 mb cache standard hard drive. I have heard both say there is little benefit to going for a 32 mb cache drive though. I can honestly say I never owned a 16 mb cache, so I do not know how it compares to a 32 mb.

N2Gaming: Yep, Athlon XPs run Windows XP without any issue. In fact, my first XP chip (3200+) was my first Windows XP machine. My old laptop (Athlon XP-M 2800+) runs XP to this day. However, Athlon XPs do not have 64-bit processing capabilities, and instead, are relegated to the realm of x86. As to RAM speeds, my first Socket A was in fact DDR-333 as you posit, but my second was DDR-400.

What I wonder is: When will AMD leave a 200 MHz HTT? Ever since Barton and Thorton, AMD has used 200 MHz, and since ClawHammer, it has used 200 MHz HTT exclusively. Surely there must be some reason why AMD has kept the same HTT for more than six years now, but I cannot think of a reason why.


----------



## N2Gaming

This is mostly for BO & DR.

I just got a email from inet regarding my account that I never actually set up. Any way I thought it would be nice for me to share the contents of the msg so you all can make a edjucated decision should you choose to purchase games or movies from them.

Quote:



Quote:



inet


Dear Customer 
Thank you for contacting us.

There is no current way to view your orders online through our website.

In order to change the email address on your account, you will have to open a new account with the proper email address.

We have generated a support ticket to help us track your inquiry. Your ticket code is LTK147016614031X. Please use this code in any further communication.

In case this email does not fully answer your question, or you would like to contact us for any reason, simply reply to this email.

Best regards,

Michelle 
Customer Service Department - iNetVideo.com 
------------------------------------------------------ 
Websites: 
----------- 
http://www.inetvideo.com 
http://www.inetvideo.ca 
http://m.inetvideo.com (mobile) 
http://inetvideo.blogspot.com (Blog)

=======

Subject: When you were offline (via LivePerson)

[Country:] United States

Hi I would like to view my previous orders so that I can show others how that your company is legit. I also want to change my email on my account. My original email was [email protected]

_______________________________ 
The above message was sent when you were offline, via your Timpani site.

Message sent from IP: xx.xx.xx.xx

-- 
This message has been verified by LastSpam eMail security service

Ce courriel a Ã©tÃ© vÃ©rifiÃ© par le service de sÃ©curitÃ© pour courriels LastSpam 
http://www.lastspam.com


----------



## BlackOmega

Wow that in and of itself makes me leery of their services. I had a similar thing happen with the place I bought my A8N32 sli deluxe from. It took them a month to get me the board







And I had to hound them for it.









I think I'll just use retailers I'm familiar with.

On another note, I finally got my 720 lapped. I went through 3 60 grit sheets just to get the coating off







.Took her all the way up to 2000 grit. I'm still debating whether I should bother polishing it or not. I'll post some pics later.


----------



## N2Gaming

I replied to the email and asked here if they shipped retail or OEM packages and how much it would cost to ship 1-5 games to 95206


----------



## StormX2

I do not trus tthat company

they dont even have a D&B Listing.. Unless they are hiding under a Parent Company..


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


prob not the best place for this post but....I am considering upgrdaing my OS drive to SSD. I would love go with a low capacity 1X pci express type. Maybe 32 gigs. Has anyone done this, and with what level of performance gain.


Eternalenergy311, I have zero experience with these new drives but I did however do some reading. Some of the drives (could of been older drives) had really slow write speeds. Some users actually off loaded their pagefile.sys to a normal 3.5" drive because it was faster. Reads are obviously superior to a regular hard drive. The SSD's with MLC (multi-level cell) are the most common but are also slower. The SLC (single-level cell) drives have a longer lifespan and perform better versus MLC. It looks something like this:

SLC - More expensive. Longer lifespan. Faster. Smaller HD Size
MLC - Less expensive. Shorter lifespan. Not as Fast vs MLC. Larger HD Size

Perhaps Tator can explain more.

Good luck


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Eternalenergy311, I have zero experience with these new drives but I did however do some reading. Some of the drives (could of been older drives) had really slow write speeds. Some users actually off loaded their pagefile.sys to a normal 3.5" drive because it was faster. Reads are obviously superior to a regular hard drive. The SSD's with MLC (multi-level cell) are the most common but are also slower. The SLC (single-level cell) drives have a longer lifespan and perform better versus MLC. It looks something like this:

*SLC - More expensive. Longer lifespan. Faster. Smaller HD Size
MLC - Less expensive. Shorter lifespan. Not as Fast vs MLC. Larger HD Size*

Perhaps Tator can explain more.

Good luck










Bold pretty much nailed it.

Windows 7 has advancements in the Pagefile system so that SSD's can have greater performance with them. (Microsoft is contemplating a Revised Windows 7 Netbook edition optimized for SSDs currently as Netbooks are a huge market)

The best options right now though, are offloading your Pagefile to a storage drive. Or, if you want a silent operation (IE, no moving parts besides lowspeed/quiet fans) then create a RAM Disk for your PageFile. Which would be helpful if you are running a 32Bit OS, as that would put your un-used RAM to work. And give it a job to increase system performance.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary* 
I have the same motherboard and CPU *well it's not xp-m* What are your settings at? Also what are your temps? I have some coolermaster heatsink. It isn't to bad but i can always point my 120mm pally at it










I can tell you honestly you'll make that Pally fry and die trying to hit extreme speeds with it.
Palomino core chips are inherently weak like a T-Bred "A" and will cave in quickly under the abuse. T-Bred "B" chips are much better and for the record, some extreme examples have gone well over 3.0GHz on LN2 and with Cascade cooling.
Any T-Bred "B" with an JIUHB or similar stepping with a date newer than 0339 should do very well, esp the XP 1700 and XP 1800 chips.
XP-M's are the ones to get if going for a Barton core, esp for a A7N with it's limited CPU voltage selection. Most any IQYHA, ADYHA or similar stepping chip should do well in a A7N. This particular one is a IQYHA 0408 date chip that's always clocked well for me. The BIOS in my A7N makes a real difference too, I'm using the Trats 1010 BIOS mod in my board and it's always done well so far. One more thing - If your board isn't a A7N8X Deluxe ver 2.0 or a A7N8X-E, it won't do nearly as well. All other versions aren't known as good clockers.

Temps for that run were at 15C under load so you know I had some great cooling for it at the time. I can do better but would need to get a few "Things" to do it on a consistent basis and I'm looking into that.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Or, if you want a silent operation (IE, no moving parts besides lowspeed/quiet fans) then create a RAM Disk for your PageFile. Which would be helpful if you are running a 32Bit OS, as that would put your un-used RAM to work. And give it a job to increase system performance.


Tator Tot, interesting info on the RAMDisk. I need to read up on that


----------



## mattliston

ramdisk is great if you have at least a gig of memory. I use it for firefox's cahce and have a 100 meg pagefile on it (dont worry, I have a 1500 meg PF on my storage drive)

I cant wait till I can afford a fresh 64 bit system and run an 8 gig setup with 2 gigs for my cache and pagefile. should make a killer respondsive system when its properly setup, even if it was only an AM2 system


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mattliston*


ramdisk is great if you have at least a gig of memory. I use it for firefox's cahce and have a 100 meg pagefile on it (dont worry, I have a 1500 meg PF on my storage drive)

I cant wait till I can afford a fresh 64 bit system and run an 8 gig setup with 2 gigs for my cache and pagefile. should make a killer respondsive system when its properly setup, even if it was only an AM2 system


Mattliston & Tator, with just 2GB of memory is a ramdisk still beneficial or would that sort of bog my system down? I'm assuming 4GB of memory would be a perfect amount.


----------



## mattliston

I currently have only a gigabyte. I simply allocate 150 megs to be used usually. depends on what Im doing, I lower or raise that as necessary


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Mattliston & Tator, with just 2GB of memory is a ramdisk still beneficial or would that sort of bog my system down? I'm assuming 4GB of memory would be a perfect amount.

I actually run 6GB of RAM in my Sig Rig with a 2GB Page File on a DDR2 800 Stick (note Cas latency has no effect on RAM disks really)

In all honestly, a 1-2GB Page File is the best. So on a 2GB setup, it wouldn't be that beneficial. Unless you were running a low resource OS like EEEbuntu, Crunchbang Linux, Ubuntu Netbook Remix, WinXP Netbook edition (Note: Not illegal to use as long as you have a real copy of XP), ect.

But in a normal XP/Vista/7 enviroment. 2GB of RAM with a 256MB RAM disk would not be a great idea.

With 4GB and putting 1GB to use as a RAM disk would be fine though.


----------



## Blitz6804

Here's one for you Tator: In a Windows Vista environment, what do you do if you are pretty regularly running 65-90% usage with 4 GB of RAM installed? This is one of the big reasons I went Windows 7; doing the same exact things as before, I am 32-60%.


----------



## mattliston

windows has algorythms for the pagefiles, so you can have a small one in ram, one on teh main drive, and one on each storage drive.

I noticed a mild performance increase when I had it set to 100 megs in a ramdrive. even more when I had that and a 1500 on my storage. currently I only have the 1500 one since I did a fresh OS install and havent gotten around to using ramdisk


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Here's one for you Tator: In a Windows Vista environment, what do you do if you are pretty regularly running 65-90% usage with 4 GB of RAM installed? This is one of the big reasons I went Windows 7; doing the same exact things as before, I am 32-60%.

Restard Windows. Unfortuately due to the way Windows Vista logs and stores information for faster access, it causes obscenely high RAM usage for the OS.

And unlike XP, it's best to have a daily restart of the machine.

There is not much you can really do to fix the problem as it's at the core of the OS. That's why when people say Vista SP2 = 7 it's not really true. 7 has so many advancements in the kernel that it is a new OS and Windows Vista, like 2000 & ME, were just big flops on the consumer end.


----------



## Blitz6804

My computer was restarted once to twice daily. I turned off Readyboost and Superfetch (both of which cut RAM usage) but it was still a bit ridiculous. I was planning on switching to 8 GB, but since swapping to Windows 7, it seems I can stave that off a bit.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


My computer was restarted once to twice daily. I turned off Readyboost and Superfetch (both of which cut RAM usage) but it was still a bit ridiculous. I was planning on switching to 8 GB, but since swapping to Windows 7, it seems I can stave that off a bit.


Vista & 7 have alot of background tasks running. Have you looked into shutting them off. Mobsync (relates to windows media player & mobile device syncing) can be a huge RAM hog. 50k sometimes.


----------



## mattliston

what have you guys found out about 939 and win7 playability? responsive? needs to be tweaked? needs to be on an overclockable board?

thinking about taking the plunge. my system runs quick enough for me now, so thats the big deciding factor


----------



## txtmstrjoe

How interesting.

I've been running Vista 64-bit for about two months or so now, and I honestly cannot tell on my sig rig if it's struggling. This is on a 2GB RAM setup, too, mind you.

Even in gaming, at my monitor's native resolution, I can even have eye candy on and I honestly cannot tell the difference between Vista 64-bit and XP Home 32-bit. Case in point: rFactor (which admittedly is not nearly as monstrous a game as, say, Crysis is) still runs at well over 120FPS (measured with FRAPS) at 2048 x 1152, 16x AA. Far Cry (the original) similarly plays sans problems at similar settings (I don't remember how much eye candy I have set for this game).

Two points I'm making: 1) This is on a 2GB DDR500 setup on a S939 dual-core; 2) It's frankly baffling to me how more robust machines are apparently struggling with more powerful hardware than mine.

I've even told thlnk3r (this weekend, in fact) that I've grown to like Vista more than WinXP, which is something I didn't expect whatsoever before taking the Vista plunge.

Is this down to user's usage patterns of his/her machine, or am I not attuned enough to the experience that I'm missing out in my perceptions of the situation?


----------



## Tator Tot

Vista will tune it self to the installed RAM, so it's build in engine won't use up alot of RAM if you have 2GB installed. It'll leave very little for the OS, and not store much there.

As for the games, they are old games. Mostly the reason why they play well. Vista 64bit SP1 & XP 32bit SP3 have roughly the same game performance when using the same levels.

They only different between it all really is that one is a more complex OS than the other.

Also, the reason new game struggle is DX10...a poorly coded, rushed job.


----------



## Blitz6804

It is strange, despite the learning curve, I too grew to like Vista... for a while. After about 4-6 months, it was getting remarkable slowed down. There are ways to fix that to some degree (as I showed earlier in the thread) but it is still a slower-feeling system to me as compared to XP. Windows 7 restores the snappiness that Windows XP had, but it has its own quirks to deal with.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Vista will tune it self to the installed RAM, so it's build in engine won't use up alot of RAM if you have 2GB installed. It'll leave very little for the OS, and not store much there.


It almost seems like you are penalized for running more RAM compared to less (or, less than a given amount, say > 2GB).

Without eliminating any services or processes at all, and with Aero and the Sidebar on (I guess I haven't gotten over the Vista eye candy yet







), I usually have around 1GB "free," according to my RAM widget. Sometimes I have a bit less (700MB or so), but even when I'm using a lot of RAM I can detect no slowdowns whatsoever.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


As for the games, they are old games. Mostly the reason why they play well. Vista 64bit SP1 & XP 32bit SP3 have roughly the same game performance when using the same levels.

They only different between it all really is that one is a more complex OS than the other.

Also, the reason new game struggle is DX10...a poorly coded, rushed job.


Seems to me that Vista's only real selling point (DX10) over WinXP is also its biggest weakness, then, based on what you're saying. I've yet to own a game that depends on DX10, so I can't vouch for how much better it'd look than DX9.

I think CoD4 is the newest game I have. Is this a DX10 title? I want to do some testing and observation.


----------



## Blitz6804

CoD4 is Dx9. HAWX, Crysis, and Gears of War are my Dx10 titles, all of which were unplayable in Dx10 with a single HD 4870x2. The Dx10 microstutter was crippling. In Dx9, the minimum frame rate is such that you do not feel the microstutter.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


It almost seems like you are penalized for running more RAM compared to less (or, less than a given amount, say > 2GB).


Sort of. Microsoft thought that everyone would be upgrading in Mass so they tried many new things with Vista. Unfortunately, market crashes, a bad starting run, and a variety of other factors caused there plans to get all messed up.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Without eliminating any services or processes at all, and with Aero and the Sidebar on (I guess I haven't gotten over the Vista eye candy yet







), I usually have around 1GB "free," according to my RAM widget. Sometimes I have a bit less (700MB or so), but even when I'm using a lot of RAM I can detect no slowdowns whatsoever.


With 8GB of RAM in my system (that I used before I got my Platinum LV's) it would idle @ 48-50% RAM usage.

And with 4GB (current setup) it idles at 50% RAM usage almost constantly.

They basically designed the system to use up to 50% of the RAM if, and to decrease that amount based on what other programs need. 
The algorithms scalability is actually really well designed. But the max value could be handled better, and because of the system in place, it requires atleast 1GB of RAM, but more like 4GB to be a completely usable system. W7 fixed most of these issues, and improved on the system more making it so as little as 1GB of RAM could be used comfortably.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Seems to me that Vista's only real selling point (DX10) over WinXP is also its biggest weakness, then, based on what you're saying. I've yet to own a game that depends on DX10, so I can't vouch for how much better it'd look than DX9.


A DX10.1 game is alright, it's basically the true DX10. But with DX11 coming out there is not really a point to DX10. Yeah it has more eye candy, but nothing that noticeable unless you are doing side by side shots, or you have a slow moving environment. (IE, large scale RPG or something to that extent)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I think CoD4 is the newest game I have. Is this a DX10 title? I want to do some testing and observation.


 EDIT: NOpe nevermind it doesn't have DX10. Not really worth it though. Maxed out DX9 looks great and plays well.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


CoD4 is Dx9. HAWX, Crysis, and Gears of War are my Dx10 titles, all of which were unplayable in Dx10 with a single HD 4870x2. The Dx10 microstutter was crippling. In Dx9, the minimum frame rate is such that you do not feel the microstutter.


Hmm... I guess it's brilliant that I don't have any "must-play" DX10 games, then.









To be honest, I do have a bit of a curiosity when it comes to Crysis. I'm curious to see how it is as a game (though I do still remember our conversations here and there in the past about how it's not spectacular as a game per se); as a challenge for your hardware I'm willing to believe the consensus opinion that it is exactly that, a challenge for your hardware (if you don't run an Intel + nVidia combo, that is).


----------



## Blitz6804

I only got the game for two reasons:
1) I was curious what the hype was about (I still do not know); and
2) It was given to me free of charge.

Things that bother me about Crysis: the framerate (even with my hardware, I only get upwards of 50 FPS or so), the hard-wired controls (you cannot switch the right mouse button from the default toggle to the more-traditional hold), the hardware disparity (why can a single 8800 GT on an C2Q play the game better than my setup), and the false illusion of an open world (either make the world open or linear; do not make it linear and say it is open).


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I only got the game for two reasons:
1) I was curious what the hype was about (I still do not know); and
2) It was given to me free of charge.

Things that bother me about Crysis: the framerate (even with my hardware, I only get upwards of 50 FPS or so), the hard-wired controls (you cannot switch the right mouse button from the default toggle to the more-traditional hold), the hardware disparity (why can a single 8800 GT on an C2Q play the game better than my setup), and the false illusion of an open world (either make the world open or linear; do not make it linear and say it is open).


One question (I honestly can't tell the answer given what you've offered): Is it fun to play?

As an aside, I actually don't care so much about the age of the game or the tech in it. Far more important is the fun factor in the actual gameplay. Far Cry may be old, but it's so much fun I've played through it several times (some with cheats enabled, some without). Ditto with a dinosaur classic like KotOR.

rFactor (and other racing games/sims) are admittedly my favorite genre of games, and thankfully they don't seem to require a herculean system to play properly. I'd slit my wrists if a must-have F1 sim came around and I had to sell my kidney to buy parts just to play it properly.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mattliston*


what have you guys found out about 939 and win7 playability? responsive? needs to be tweaked? needs to be on an overclockable board?


Mattliston, I had Win 7 Ultimate 64-bit on my signature rig for a few days. It was pretty snappy. The OS installed pretty quick as well. The only problem I had was finding drivers (64-bit) for my Barracuda AC-1. I plan on testing the OS more when I get my quad-core rig going


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


One question (I honestly can't tell the answer given what you've offered): Is it fun to play?


No it is not.

If you want a fun game to play with lots of Eye candy. Get HAWX


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


No it is not.

If you want a fun game to play with lots of Eye candy. Get HAWX


Ooh!  A PC version of Ace Combat!









The concept is solid already! (I LOVED Ace Combat on the PS2!)


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Ooh! A PC version of Ace Combat!









The concept is solid already! (I LOVED Ace Combat on the PS2!)


It's damn fun (Ace Combat fan as well.)

And it has DX10.1, so going for the Eye Candy in that game does not loose you as much performance.

http://www.guru3d.com/article/hawx-p...mance-review/6


----------



## thlnk3r

Check out Arma II. That game has crazy eye candy.


----------



## Blitz6804

Txtmstrjoe: To answer your question, its not fun. As to my opinions of HAWX: Ace Combat 04/5 are better, but it is a darned fun game.


----------



## BlackOmega

Well gentlemen I am *FINALLY* done lapping the 720 and temps are rather remarkable I must say.

I also swapped the fan out on my BT (was using Antec tri cool 79CFM) and it is now using the Xiggy DK fan (89 CFM). This configuration is keeping the board nice and cool. It's even dropped my NB temps by ~7C.

At any rate, here's a SS. (I'll upload the pics of it later).










Now I'm off to stability test the 4th core







.


----------



## BlackOmega

Well it look as though the IMC is borked on the 4th core.







No matter what voltage I apply as soon as I start the blend test it locks up. I set the RAM to auto, which makes it run @ 1066 7-7-7-20-27-1T timings.

So now I'm off to test the board.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Well it look as though the IMC is borked on the 4th core.







No matter what voltage I apply as soon as I start the blend test it locks up. I set the RAM to auto, which makes it run @ 1066 7-7-7-20-27-1T timings.

So now I'm off to test the board.

the 3 to 4 core jump is negligible for most. See how hard you can push it as a tri.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
the 3 to 4 core jump is negligible for most. See how hard you can push it as a tri.

I'm testing the limits of the board at the moment. I've been procrastinating







.

I am very pleased with my lapping results, so far fully loaded hasn't gone over 31C at the cores.


----------



## Blitz6804

Nice... your lapping is super effective, you have actually now gotten your idle temps below my nearly-subarctic ones. (Cool and quiet disabled, I am reading 20Âº C on the spreader in a 15Âº C ambient. Enabling CnQ drops me to 16Âº C.)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hmm... Kinda makes me wonder now who has superior lapping mojo: thlnk3r, or Omega Supreme?

A question for the ages, methinks!









Plus G.O.'s got a pretty solid rep for his lapping expertise as well!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Nice... your lapping is super effective, you have actually now gotten your idle temps below my nearly-subarctic ones. (Cool and quiet disabled, I am reading 20Âº C on the spreader in a 15Âº C ambient. Enabling CnQ drops me to 16Âº C.)

I am pleasantly surprised with the results. It's idling at or within 1C of ambient and loads so low, definitely lower than any of my 939's, even at the same voltage (including my lapped 3800x2 @ 1.31v).

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Hmm... Kinda makes me wonder now who has superior lapping mojo: thlnk3r, or Omega Supreme?

A question for the ages, methinks!









Plus G.O.'s got a pretty solid rep for his lapping expertise as well!

I think you're right Joe.







I would imagine that all of us has honed our lapping skills to near perfection. Although, I wouldn't mind a way of expediting the process somewhat. I actually used 60 grit







and it _still_ took for freaking ever.


----------



## Blitz6804

Interested in starting a lapping service? What would you charge? *Chuckles.*


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Interested in starting a lapping service? What would you charge? *Chuckles.*


 Actually that probably wouldn't be a half bad idea. Except the people that actually do that sort of thing are far and few between, in in the OCing community.

As for price, well that depends on if I could find a faster way of doing it that would still leave the surface not only flat, but level as well. Because the way it stands, it would be a relatively expensive service (~$50).

On another note, what is the range that I want to keep my HT link in? So far I've ran prime @ 240 HTT and my HT link is @ 1920. Stable so far.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


On another note, what is the range that I want to keep my HT link in? So far I've ran prime @ 240 HTT and my HT link is @ 1920. Stable so far.


~1800mhz for the 920/940
~2000mhz for all other K10.5's


----------



## BlackOmega

Ty very much sir. I just left it on auto and plum forgot what it should be.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Ty very much sir. I just left it on auto and plum forgot what it should be.










No problem man.

I'm a wealth of AMD knowledge. Phenom 1 (revision B3) stole my heart


----------



## BlackOmega

OK 250 HTT is good.







Off to the store, BBL.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


OK 250 HTT is good.







Off to the store, BBL.


KEEP ON GOING!







Have fun at the store.


----------



## BlackOmega

Well it seems I have hit a wall @ 275. Tried upping the NB voltage to 1.27v (1.2 default) and no change. Checking max multiplier now


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well gentlemen I am *FINALLY* done lapping the 720 and temps are rather remarkable I must say.

I also swapped the fan out on my BT (was using Antec tri cool 79CFM) and it is now using the Xiggy DK fan (89 CFM). This configuration is keeping the board nice and cool. It's even dropped my NB temps by ~7C.


BlackOmega, I'm amazing 7C difference...20C idle! Excellent job


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, I'm amazing 7C difference...20C idle! Excellent job










Thanks!









Undoubtedly the high CFM fan helps all the motherboard temps.

And man this thing is staying SO cool, right now I'm stressing it w/ Prime @ 3300MHz coretemps stay at a nice cool 33C.


----------



## eternalenergy311

thlnk3r or tator or whomever,

So I just reliexed yestreday that the OS Hard Drive in BigBlue is only a 2mb cache drive. I have nothing else sitting around in my arsenol I really want to put in there, so I was thinking of buying new. Someone mentioned that you or Tator would be in the know. I have opted against the idea of SSD for the moment, so what do you think of about the samsungs or a cavier black. 16mb vs 32 mb, and single platter vs. dual. This is really not my area of expertise at all so any help would be great. Also, any SATA drives these days are huge and will have to be partioned down for OS use, right? Plus, my old Abit-Kn8 is only SATA1 (1.5mb/s), so...


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Tator Tot, interesting info on the RAMDisk. I need to read up on that









I have done then RAMdisk thing in the past when I was running 32bit XP, but now on 64 bit 7 I am not sure if I want to, since it is such a RAM hog. I mean not as bad as Vista(from what I ahve worked on) but...sure I am only using about 1400-1600mb most times of my 4 gigs. I do have my page file on a faster storage drive at the moment. Maybe I will try it anyways, but won't that effect my dual channel capabilities? Or maybe i could just use a 2gig flash drive?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


thlnk3r or tator or whomever,

So I just reliexed yestreday that the OS Hard Drive in BigBlue is only a 2mb cache drive. I have nothing else sitting around in my arsenol I really want to put in there, so I was thinking of buying new. Someone mentioned that you or Tator would be in the know. I have opted against the idea of SSD for the moment, so what do you think of about the samsungs or a cavier black. 16mb vs 32 mb, and single platter vs. dual. This is really not my area of expertise at all so any help would be great. Also, any SATA drives these days are huge and will have to be partioned down for OS use, right? Plus, my old Abit-Kn8 is only SATA1 (1.5mb/s), so...


If you are looking for new drives:

1.) Cache size doesn't matter past 16mb. If you actually look at SAS & SCSI drives, none of them come with 32mb of Cache as it is pointless.

2.) Western Digital Caviar Blue (AAKS) or Black (AAJS) 320GB or 640GB. 
- the difference between the Blue & Blacks is; Blues have 16mb Cache & 3 year warranty, blacks have 32mb of Cache & 5 Year warranty.

3.) The best drives on the market are the Samsung Spinpoint F3 500GB & 1TB Drives.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


I have done then RAMdisk thing in the past when I was running 32bit XP, but now on 64 bit 7 I am not sure if I want to, since it is such a RAM hog. I mean not as bad as Vista(from what I ahve worked on) but...sure I am only using about 1400-1600mb most times of my 4 gigs. I do have my page file on a faster storage drive at the moment. Maybe I will try it anyways, but won't that effect my dual channel capabilities? Or maybe i could just use a 2gig flash drive?


A RAMdisk in Vista & 7 would be a waste most of the time when you only have 4GB. Being able to use more would be better.

Now, some boards allow for you to run 2 channels of RAM at different settings. 
My board does and I currently have 2x2GB OCZ Platinum LV in one channel running at 1174mhz, and then a DDR2 800 stick of Mushkin HP2 running in my second channel as a RAM disk.

Intel has an interesting feature for their desktops (implemented on the P57 Platform that is currently delayed) codenamed Braidwood (formally Turbocache on the mobile front.) Which essentially gives you a RAM Disk slot for your board to add on a MiniPCIe SSD that would be small in size (~2GB) and that could store your cache for Page File, or HDD/SSD Cache.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311* 
thlnk3r or tator or whomever,

So I just reliexed yestreday that the OS Hard Drive in BigBlue is only a 2mb cache drive. I have nothing else sitting around in my arsenol I really want to put in there, so I was thinking of buying new. Someone mentioned that you or Tator would be in the know. I have opted against the idea of SSD for the moment, so what do you think of about the samsungs or a cavier black. 16mb vs 32 mb, and single platter vs. dual. This is really not my area of expertise at all so any help would be great. Also, any SATA drives these days are huge and will have to be partioned down for OS use, right? Plus, my old Abit-Kn8 is only SATA1 (1.5mb/s), so...

Eternal,
Like Tator said, anything larger than a 16MB cache is pointless and there is no real advantage to having a larger cache than that.
Also your 1.5BG/s SATA ports aren't going to be of any detriment to performance. It only slows burst speed slightly. Average data transfer rates will be no slower than SATA 3.0GB/x.

As for which drives to get, Tator likes his Samsungs. Personally, I've had really good luck with Western Digital drives (SE16 and RE16's). I've also had good luck with Seagate, although the last time I bought one of their drives was ~4 years ago. Although, they had some real issues last year with their 500B drives (N2 can attest to that).

At any rate, whichever drive you choose I'm sure that there's a review out there for it. Check out as many as possible, and be sure to read the customer reviews to see if there are high failure rates or other known common issues.

Good Luck








______________________________________________

A little update on my OCing with my board. So far I've gotten it to 3600MHz (18x multiplier) @ 1.45v. I was running prime to test but I've come to realize that S&M does seem to stress it harder. Max temps I observed while running Prime: 39C, using S&M: 42C (L1 and FPU tests).

Tator, Blitz, N2 (or anyone else with info on the matter) is there any advantage or disadvantage to using just the multiplier to OC as opposed to using HTT? Also, when do you know you need to apply voltage to any of the lanes, like CPU-NB voltage, etc. That's the only really new thing about these AM3's that I am somewhat unsure about.

Thanks Fellas.


----------



## Blitz6804

In my experience, a higher HTT, lower mutli is the way to go for K10.5 processors. I can get the CPU about 200 MHz higher with a 13x multiplier than I can with a 15x multiplier for the same voltage. To match speed of the 15x to the 13x, a voltage bump is required.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


In my experience, a higher HTT, lower mutli is the way to go for K10.5 processors. I can get the CPU about 200 MHz higher with a 13x multiplier than I can with a 15x multiplier for the same voltage. To match speed of the 15x to the 13x, a voltage bump is required.


 So really there's no advantage or disadvantage other than the possibility of running the same speed with a lower voltage. Well it seems that I have quite a bit of wiggle room.

So when do you apply lane voltage? I read in another post that upping the CPU to NB voltage (at least I think it's that one) allows your RAM to run at lower CAS or tighter timings. I might make a thread about it.


----------



## Tator Tot

@BlackOmega

CPU-NB Voltage is for the IMC and allows for higher clocks and lower cas ratings.

Also, HIgher HT clocks are a better way to get you higher RAM & NB Clocks.

Like some CPU's can only do ~1550mhz on the RAM & 26xx mhz on the IMC, but you can't set those speeds with multi's, so using the HT is better. for top system performance.

Though, adjustable multi's are the way to go. IMO, AMD Should make almost all Phenom's black Editions besides the " e " (low power) versions.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


@BlackOmega

CPU-NB Voltage is for the IMC and allows for higher clocks and lower cas ratings.

Also, HIgher HT clocks are a better way to get you higher RAM & NB Clocks.

Like some CPU's can only do ~1550mhz on the RAM & 26xx mhz on the IMC, but you can't set those speeds with multi's, so using the HT is better. for top system performance.

Though, adjustable multi's are the way to go. IMO, AMD Should make almost all Phenom's black Editions besides the " e " (low power) versions.


 Thanks for that Tator. You posted this right as I hit a wall @ 3800MHz.







. What would you say a safe voltage is for these chips? I'm stressing 3700MHz @ 1.525v(1.51v loaded) at the moment. So far temps haven't gone over 45C at the cores, although the IHS says more







.

I wonder how much more room I have. I'll have to play around with the HTT and various multipliers to see if I can take it higher at a lower voltage (as Blitz stated). That would be nice if I could hit 3900/4000 ~1.55V.

Also, with the elevated voltages, what do you think is a safe max temp for this chip?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Thanks for that Tator. You posted this right as I hit a wall @ 3800MHz.







. What would you say a safe voltage is for these chips? I'm stressing 3700MHz @ 1.525v(1.51v loaded) at the moment. So far temps haven't gone over 45C at the cores, although the IHS says more







.

I wonder how much more room I have. I'll have to play around with the HTT and various multipliers to see if I can take it higher at a lower voltage (as Blitz stated). That would be nice if I could hit 3900/4000 ~1.55V.

Also, with the elevated voltages, what do you think is a safe max temp for this chip?


AMD Says it's 73*C for your chip.

Voltage up to 1.55v for 24/7 use as long as temps permit.

1.65v for suicide runs.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
AMD Says it's 73*C for your chip.

Voltage up to 1.55v for 24/7 use as long as temps permit.

1.65v for suicide runs.

Well it looks like I have a ways to go then







.

I think 3800MHz is very attainable, at 1.535v it even booted into windows but BSOD'd after about 3 minutes of S&M.

All in all I am pretty pleased with this chip, I'm sure as I go along and learn more about it, I'll be able to get a higher 24/7 OC. As it stands now I'll run it at 3700.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey Omega. I'm not sure if you spoke about upping your NB multi to obtain a higher NB Frequency on your cpu. You have a NB frequency of your chipset and a seperate NB frequency in your CPU if I'm not mistaken.

I don't have a NB multiplier option in my bios so I don't have any ability to up my NB/CPU frequencies like many other motherboards do. Here is a good article a 101 class on overclocking Ph II cpu's and it is what I would consider a baseline tutorial for getting your frequencies in the right ballpark and is a good read to help get you pointed in the right direction.

Good Job on the lapping.


----------



## Blitz6804

For now BlackOmega, I would suggest keeping your NB and HT under 2000 while trying to find the limits of your CPU, and jacking those multipliers up later.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hey Omega. I'm not sure if you spoke about upping your NB multi to obtain a higher NB Frequency on your cpu. You have a NB frequency of your chipset and a seperate NB frequency in your CPU if I'm not mistaken.

I don't have a NB multiplier option in my bios so I don't have any ability to up my NB/CPU frequencies like many other motherboards do. Here is a good article a 101 class on overclocking Ph II cpu's and it is what I would consider a baseline tutorial for getting your frequencies in the right ballpark and is a good read to help get you pointed in the right direction.

Good Job on the lapping.










 Thanks N2.









I'll be sure to check out that article later. (I'm being unethical in my ethics class at the moment







)

And yeah my board seems to be very tweakable, I swear it has more options than my DFI's







So yeah the multiplier on the NB is adjustable.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


For now BlackOmega, I would suggest keeping your NB and HT under 2000 while trying to find the limits of your CPU, and jacking those multipliers up later.


 Seems like 19 is the limit. But that's not a definite as I didn't want to push the volts too high.

As of right now, it's 1.5hours S&M (long, 100% load) stable.

I stopped using prime as I've noticed it doesn't get along with Everest too well. I'm using Everest Ultimate to monitor all my temps as it seems MSI didn't supply any sort of software that does.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


And yeah my board seems to be very tweakable, I swear it has more options than my DFI's







So yeah the multiplier on the NB is adjustable.


MSI's board is good in the BIOS department. I just never could get the HT clocks out of it.

And Vdroop angered me since my 790FXT has no Vdroop or Increase, and the Asus M4A79T-Dlx & Foxconn A79A-S have only a slight Voltage Increase.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Seems like 19 is the limit. But that's not a definite as I didn't want to push the volts too high.


For NB Multi?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I stopped using prime as I've noticed it doesn't get along with Everest too well. I'm using Everest Ultimate to monitor all my temps as it seems MSI didn't supply any sort of software that does.


You could look at Hardware Monitor. From the CPUID people (CPUz) works well, compatible with almost everything.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


MSI's board is good in the BIOS department. I just never could get the HT clocks out of it.

And Vdroop angered me since my 790FXT has no Vdroop or Increase, and the Asus M4A79T-Dlx & Foxconn A79A-S have only a slight Voltage Increase.


 This board seems to have the slightest Vdroop, maybe 0.015v at the very most. Not nearly as bad as my old Asus. But the VR on this board is pretty good, once it droops it doesn't fluctuate. I wish it had the VR my DFI's do. The vcore doesn't budge at all.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


For NB Multi?


Nope my CPU multiplier. But like I said it's not a definite as it kept failing.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


You could look at Hardware Monitor. From the CPUID people (CPUz) works well, compatible with almost everything.


 I've used it before. Isn't it one of those that you only get like 14 day trial and then you have to buy?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


This board seems to have the slightest Vdroop, maybe 0.015v at the very most. Not nearly as bad as my old Asus. But the VR on this board is pretty good, once it droops it doesn't fluctuate. I wish it had the VR my DFI's do. The vcore doesn't budge at all.


 Still bugs me. AMD systems are not supposed to have Vdroop. 
Vdroop is actually in the Intel Design Spec.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Nope my CPU multiplier. But like I said it's not a definite as it kept failing.


Get some LN2/DICE/Phase and you can go higher on the multi









Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I've used it before. Isn't it one of those that you only get like 14 day trial and then you have to buy?


No, it is completely free.


----------



## N2Gaming

OK guys the reply I got back from inet was quicker this time and here is a link to the shipping cost's.

Here is the email detail

Quote:



Quote:



inet


Dear Customer 
Thank you for contacting us.

They are brand new factory sealed.

Shipping rates: 
http://www.inetvideo.com/Store/Tab.aspx?tabid=4#shippingrates

We have generated a support ticket to help us track your inquiry. Your ticket code is LTK147016614031X. Please use this code in any further communication.

In case this email does not fully answer your question, or you would like to contact us for any reason, simply reply to this email.

Best regards,

Michelle 
Customer Service Department - iNetVideo.com 
------------------------------------------------------ 
Websites: 
----------- 
http://www.inetvideo.com 
http://www.inetvideo.ca 
http://m.inetvideo.com (mobile) 
http://inetvideo.blogspot.com (Blog)

=======

Subject: Re: When you were offline (via LivePerson) (LTK147016614031X)

OK thank you. I was thinking that I set up an account w/your company in the 
past but it turns out it was GoGamer.com I was confusing your company with. 
In any case I had a quetion since I don't have any previouse purchasing 
experience w/your company. Here is my question.

Are the games shipped in retail packages or OEM and how much would it cost 
to ship 1 to 5 gmaes to Stockton, Ca 95206

Thank you,


Edit: I would think that you are covered should you choose to use a credit card type of transaction. I mean if you don't get your purchased product then file a claim w/your credit card company and you'll get your money back no muss no fuss.

I hope this helps people.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
For now BlackOmega, I would suggest keeping your NB and HT under 2000 while trying to find the limits of your CPU, and jacking those multipliers up later.

Blitz, actually on some setups increasing the NB Frequency can help with the cpu overclock. Though for the HT Link speed it is wise to keep that at 2000Mhz since there is absolutely no benefit from increasing it.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Still bugs me. AMD systems are not supposed to have Vdroop.
Vdroop is actually in the Intel Design Spec.

Tator, haha exactly. Sometimes I think users forget that is a Intel term


----------



## BlackOmega

Well so everything @ 3700 is hunky dory with one exception. After S&M finished, I ran 3dm06 just to see what the score difference would be. And I noticed while it was running the screen looked like it was skipping. IT happens about once every second on 3 of the 4 GPU tests (battle of proxycon, the one with the flying boat and the last one with the snow). I didn't notice it with the firefly test. Any idea what might be causing that? (It also did this at a lower speed (3500)).


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Well so everything @ 3700 is hunky dory with one exception. After S&M finished, I ran 3dm06 just to see what the score difference would be. And I noticed while it was running the screen looked like it was skipping. IT happens about once every second on 3 of the 4 GPU tests (battle of proxycon, the one with the flying boat and the last one with the snow). I didn't notice it with the firefly test. Any idea what might be causing that? (It also did this at a lower speed (3500)).

Could have been some Hiccups in the files or a number of things.

Try loading up a game and seeing if you have any stutter like that. That's normally referred to as Microstutter, and it can relate to drivers.


----------



## BlackOmega

After my boys go to bed I'll give it a go. I was debating putting my other GPU to see if it still did it. And AFAIK I have the latest ATi drivers (9.9 I believe).

I don't know if I'd call it microstutter as it happens literally every second throughout the test. Not like your typical microstutter. And there is no actual frame rate loss or skipped frames it kind of jumps.


----------



## Tator Tot

Disable Crossfire & run with one GPU. Best way to test.

Also, they have 9.11 Beta's are out. (DL link) but AMD has 9.10 Officials up.


----------



## Blitz6804

You see any difference from the 9.10s to the 9.11s Tator Tot?


----------



## BlackOmega

Actually, I only have 1 gpu in at the moment. Since I pulled everything apart I only put one back in, in case I had to take everything apart again.

I'm going to swap them later and see if the issue still persists. Then I'll run them together and see if there is any change. (After I download the 9.10 driver







)


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Actually, I only have 1 gpu in at the moment. Since I pulled everything apart I only put one back in, in case I had to take everything apart again.

I'm going to swap them later and see if the issue still persists. Then I'll run them together and see if there is any change. (After I download the 9.10 driver







)


It sounds to me like it could just be a driver related problem. Have you tried loading up a regular game and trying it out? Even Crysis would count, lol.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


You see any difference from the 9.10s to the 9.11s Tator Tot?


On the HD5000 cards there is a noticable jump.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Actually, I only have 1 gpu in at the moment. Since I pulled everything apart I only put one back in, in case I had to take everything apart again.

I'm going to swap them later and see if the issue still persists. Then I'll run them together and see if there is any change. (After I download the 9.10 driver







)












But yeah, try single GPU, crossfire, 2 GPU's. Ect.

It might just be the test fluxing a bit. I've had some quirky 3D Mark runs where everything was fine. But it would skip durring that space ship fire fight.


----------



## Blitz6804

Anyone going to be getting the new game from Futuremark? (Shattered Horizon.) They just sent out coupons to all people who have bought a benchmarking suite from them. It sounds interesting, but worth $13.50? I have no idea.


----------



## shortfuse

since theres lessovertimeat work i decided to rework my old opteron 148 lower OC let me know what u guys think of the timing..


----------



## BlackOmega

Nice timings at that speed.

Hey what's with the No LanParty avatar? The 939 DFI are pretty much the best.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Nice timings at that speed.

Hey what's with the No LanParty avatar? The 939 DFI are pretty much the best.


 Maybe he use to work for DFI...


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Maybe he use to work for DFI...










 Maybe he worked in the customer service side of RMA.









N2 when stressing the NB do you just do it the same way as you would the CPU?


----------



## N2Gaming

I honestly don't have a lot of experience stressing my NB. My mobo locks my NB multi at 9 but allows my HT multi to be ajusted to 11 or 12x. However the HT can not clock higher then the NB or you will default the HT to the same multi as your NB. At least this tends to be the case on my mobo. The only way I am able to get my NB up in the 2200+ area is to overclock the heck out of my FSB and I have not been very successfull at doing that w/this combo of mobo/cpu/ram w/any clocks over 3550MHz. I have an Nvidia Chipset designed for 3way SLI w/an option to run a 4th Physx card. Most AMD mobo's like yours have the 790FX NB and 750 SB that allows you to obtain much better/higher clocks then I will ever dream of and for this reason alone I don't think I can give you any real valuable information as to how to obtain and stablize your NB overclocks.

I wish you luck in that dept. One word of caustion. Don't go raising your Voltages to much on your NB. You may end up doing more damage then good in a hurry if you know what I mean.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shortfuse*


since theres lessovertimeat work i decided to rework my old opteron 148 lower OC


Shortfuse, memory timings look great. What set of DDR-550 memory are you running? Model number? You certainly have more room to play with.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


when stressing the NB do you just do it the same way as you would the CPU?


BlackOmega, are you referring to the NB Frequency (IMC) or the motherboard chipset? I guess you could call it "NB"...still not sure why it's listed in the bios as that. To answer your question _yes _you can test the chipset (HT Clock speed) the same way as you would with your cpu OC. Orthos, Occt, Prime 95 ect will work perfectly fine. I always ran OCCT when testing for the maximum speed of my board.

Hope that helps

EDIT: For the NB Frequency you can still run the same stress testing applications. Lower the HT Clock speed (multiplier) and memory divider. That way you rule out those components and don't have to worry about them. Can you list every single setting that you're running right now? Frequency and voltage would be helpful.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Shortfuse, memory timings look great. What set of DDR-550 memory are you running? Model number? You certainly have more room to play with.

BlackOmega, are you referring to the NB Frequency (IMC) or the motherboard chipset? I guess you could call it "NB"...still not sure why it's listed in the bios as that. To answer your question _yes _you can test the chipset (HT Clock speed) the same way as you would with your cpu OC. Orthos, Occt, Prime 95 ect will work perfectly fine. I always ran OCCT when testing for the maximum speed of my board.

Hope that helps

EDIT: For the NB Frequency you can still run the same stress testing applications. Lower the HT Clock speed (multiplier) and memory divider. That way you rule out those components and don't have to worry about them. *Can you list every single setting that you're running right now? *


 I surely can..


----------



## thlnk3r

BlackOmega, thanks for the screen shot. Bump the NB Multiplier and start testing. Anything from stock to about 3.4Ghz and I would give it a small bump in cpu-nb voltage (+.100). I'd say anything over 3.4Ghz and 2400Mhz NB give it +.200. All though it my range for your 720BE. I'm going off some numbers recommended for 550BE owners (with four cores unlocked).

Recommended is a LOW CAS with a high NB Freq....this is highly recommended from Tator. This will give you some nice results in Everest's memory benchmark app. I'm assuming 8-8-8-24 are the factory stock timings?

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, thanks for the screen shot. Bump the NB Multiplier and start testing. Anything from stock to about 3.4Ghz and I would give it a small bump in cpu-nb voltage (+.100). I'd say anything over 3.4Ghz and 2400Mhz NB give it +.200. All though it my range for your 720BE. I'm going off some numbers recommended for 550BE owners (with four cores unlocked).

Recommended is a LOW CAS with a high NB Freq....this is highly recommended from Tator. This will give you some nice results in Everest's memory benchmark app. I'm assuming 8-8-8-24 are the factory stock timings?

Good luck










 Thanks for that thlnk3r, imaginary rep.









Yeah stock timings for 1866 is 8-8-8-24, so at 1333 I'm hoping I can run some nicer timings like 5-5-5-15.

Ok I'll see what happens.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Yeah stock timings for 1866 is 8-8-8-24, so at 1333 I'm hoping I can run some nicer timings like 5-5-5-15.


BlackOmega, cas 6 seems a little bit more reasonable...I'm not sure about 5









Keep us posted!


----------



## shortfuse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Shortfuse, memory timings look great. What set of DDR-550 memory are you running? Model number? You certainly have more room to play with.



its my old skool g.skillz F1-4400DSU2 yeah i know i can clock higher with this 2.97mhz was the stable i can go with.

bad experience with DFI mobo since nf3 series. never liked it. over priced when the rest of the boards can do the same..


----------



## StormX2

My SLI DR allowed my Corsair XMS Plat's to hit some pretty unheard of timings on the memory. I was very pleased


----------



## Tator Tot

*@BlackOmega
* Cas 5 is going to be near impossible for DDR3 Sticks, I have yet to see any DDR3 sticks clock that low. DDR3 1066 is Cas 7 by standards. And great DDR3 1333mhz sticks are Cas 6 by standards.

Though, depending on the sticks, you can get 1333mhz-1550mhz with Cas 6 no problem. And if you do have the Micron GTS's like we talked about earlier, then you should be solid for that range.

As for Stressing your Northbridge, Run a Memory only benchmark/stress test. And then a CPU Stressing test. 
As a CPU-NB Overclock can fail in many ways. It might be able to hold the RAM at it's current settings, but it could fail to communicate with the CPU properly.

CPU-NB Overclocking is probably the hardest part of AM3 as it leaves a difficult road for anyone trying to get the max amount of speed out of there CPU they can as you need to find a perfect balance for all parts.

I would do as Thlnk3r said, (but with added Tator Flare) Crank your CPU-NB Voltage to 1.4, then crank the multi up till your board will not post, or you run out of multi. Which ever comes first. And when you find a max posting/windows frequency, stress test it.

After that, keep the CPU-NB v @ 1.4 and Raise your RAM speed to 1600mhz, try Cas 7-6-6-24-1T. If it holds stable I wouldn't worry about trying to go higher than that.

At that point, you know your CPU is going to top out around 3700mhz for you. So use your HT Clock to set your RAM & NB to the fastest they can go. Then use your unlocked multi to get your CPU to it's high point.

*Side Note:* Do you have a picture of your IHS, the last set of numbers could tell me how high you will be able to get your NB.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


*@BlackOmega
* Cas 5 is going to be near impossible for DDR3 Sticks, I have yet to see any DDR3 sticks clock that low. DDR3 1066 is Cas 7 by standards. And great DDR3 1333mhz sticks are Cas 6 by standards.

Though, depending on the sticks, you can get 1333mhz-1550mhz with Cas 6 no problem. And if you do have the Micron GTS's like we talked about earlier, then you should be solid for that range.

As for Stressing your Northbridge, Run a Memory only benchmark/stress test. And then a CPU Stressing test. 
As a CPU-NB Overclock can fail in many ways. It might be able to hold the RAM at it's current settings, but it could fail to communicate with the CPU properly.

CPU-NB Overclocking is probably the hardest part of AM3 as it leaves a difficult road for anyone trying to get the max amount of speed out of there CPU they can as you need to find a perfect balance for all parts.

I would do as Thlnk3r said, (but with added Tator Flare) Crank your CPU-NB Voltage to 1.4, then crank the multi up till your board will not post, or you run out of multi. Which ever comes first. And when you find a max posting/windows frequency, stress test it.

After that, keep the CPU-NB v @ 1.4 and Raise your RAM speed to 1600mhz, try Cas 7-6-6-24-1T. If it holds stable I wouldn't worry about trying to go higher than that.

At that point, you know your CPU is going to top out around 3700mhz for you. So use your HT Clock to set your RAM & NB to the fastest they can go. Then use your unlocked multi to get your CPU to it's high point.

*Side Note:* Do you have a picture of your IHS, the last set of numbers could tell me how high you will be able to get your NB.


 Thanks for that Tator.







Lots of very useful info. Do you ever actually raise the NB voltage? So far I have both the NB and the CPU-NB set @ 1.25v. Since last night I've been actually raising the NB clock by raising the HTT. So far it's @ 2250 sans issue.

I suppose I'll try the multiplier route to find it's absolute max.

I had this fleeting idea that if I raise everything using the HTT rather than individually changing multipliers that the system as a whole would 1. be more stable and 2. be "faster" clock for clock rather than going the multiplier route.

Also, is there any benefit to throughput (or anything else for that matter) to having the HT link >2000MHz? And if there is no noticeable benefit what is the max that I'd want the HT link to be?

BTW: The stepping for my 720 is CACZC AC 0910APCW (I'm assuming that's the set of numbers you were referring to).

Thanks Tator you've been a great help.


----------



## Blitz6804

Wait, your stock NB is 1.250 V? I wonder: is my DFI anemic, or is it the difference between an AM2+ Deneb (at 1800 MHz) and an AM3 Deneb (at 2000 MHz) as my NB is 1.175 V at stock. (There is no option in my BIOS to adjust it either, if I want to adjust it, I must use K10Stat. My CPU-NB voltage is adjustable though.)

And I believe Tator wants the third line of numbers, but I could be wrong.


----------



## Tator Tot

@BlackOmega

No I need a shot of your IHS, as their is a long string of numbers that I need to get the info from. As the string ends in 9xxxxx, and depending on the end numbers, depends on how close your CPU was cut from the center of the wafer, which gets you a better chance at high CPU-NB Clocks.

Ex: My CPU is xxxxxx90003, so my 7750BE was 3rd Cut from the wafer, and get highs NB Clocks without much effort. IE: Stock Voltage 2400mhz NB from stock 1800mhz.

Your CPU has a Stock HT & NB of 2000mhz for reference.

Also, HT Clock getting your 4.0ghz & Multi getting your 4.0ghz will be the same speed no matter what. Intensive benching on XS Has shown this.

And no, you want your HT Link Speed running at 2000mhz most of the time. But +/- 100mhz is no big. 
Also, Link Width of 16bits is the best for multi tasking.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Wait, your stock NB is 1.250 V? I wonder: is my DFI anemic, or is it the difference between an AM2+ Deneb (at 1800 MHz) and an AM3 Deneb (at 2000 MHz) as my NB is 1.175 V at stock. (There is no option in my BIOS to adjust it either, if I want to adjust it, I must use K10Stat. My CPU-NB voltage is adjustable though.)

And I believe Tator wants the third line of numbers, but I could be wrong.


Yeah I do.

Also, yes there is a difference in voltage, as the IMC From the 920/940 is from older K10's and the AM3 chips use the newer IMC from K10.5's


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Wait, your stock NB is 1.250 V? I wonder: is my DFI anemic, or is it the difference between an AM2+ Deneb (at 1800 MHz) and an AM3 Deneb (at 2000 MHz) as my NB is 1.175 V at stock. (There is no option in my BIOS to adjust it either, if I want to adjust it, I must use K10Stat. My CPU-NB voltage is adjustable though.)

And I believe Tator wants the third line of numbers, but I could be wrong.


 No I just set them to that since I was going to be messing around with the clocks, I just wanted to be sure that they would have enough voltage. I kind of like increasing voltage gradually. Stock they run @ 1.21v

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


@BlackOmega

No I need a shot of your IHS, as their is a long string of numbers that I need to get the info from. As the string ends in 9xxxxx, and depending on the end numbers, depends on how close your CPU was cut from the center of the wafer, which gets you a better chance at high CPU-NB Clocks.

Ex: My CPU is xxxxxx90003, so my 7750BE was 3rd Cut from the wafer, and get highs NB Clocks without much effort. IE: Stock Voltage 2400mhz NB from stock 1800mhz.

Your CPU has a Stock HT & NB of 2000mhz for reference.

Also, HT Clock getting your 4.0ghz & Multi getting your 4.0ghz will be the same speed no matter what. Intensive benching on XS Has shown this.

And no, you want your HT Link Speed running at 2000mhz most of the time. But +/- 100mhz is no big. 
Also, Link Width of 16bits is the best for multi tasking.


Tator the last 5 digits are 90149. So I'm assuming the 149th cpu cut from that portion of the wafer.

As for the idea that using the HTT rather than multiplier just gives me the notion that the system runs .......... smoother. I suppose this is just a _perceived_ smoothness. And from that it just _seems_ like the system is faster or perhaps "more responsive" would be a better term.

EDIT: Is it just me or did you guys notice that the desktop version of memtest stress the CPU @ 100%? (If you run as many instances as you have cores.)


----------



## HothBase

That's some pretty cool stuff to know, Tator. My 720 says 90485, is that bad? Those aren't very low numbers


----------



## N2Gaming

I was unaware of a windows based memtest. Are you talking about memtest86+?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
That's some pretty cool stuff to know, Tator. My 720 says 90485, is that bad? Those aren't very low numbers









Hey Hoth







What is the stepping on your chip?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I was unaware of a windows based memtest. Are you talking about memtest86+?

Yes sir there is a version you can run on your desktop, which I prefer to do since my GPU gets hot as hell when the cooling profile isn't loaded up (78C @ idle







).
Although, when I stressing _just_ the RAM due to timing/frequency change, I run the DOS version as it is able to use 100% of the RAM rather than 77% like the windows version.

I'll see if I can find it for you.









EDIT: Here's the link. Its the one that says installable from windows. At least I think that's the one.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Hey Hoth







What is the stepping on your chip?

Hey, 0904EPMW


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
Hey, 0904EPMW









Whats the first 5? I know mine doesn't reach the high clocks I hoped it would (CACZC stepping). But the CACYC stepping chips seem to attain rather high clocks @ low volts.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 

Tator the last 5 digits are 90149. So I'm assuming the 149th cpu cut from that portion of the wafer.

As for the idea that using the HTT rather than multiplier just gives me the notion that the system runs .......... smoother. I suppose this is just a _perceived_ smoothness. And from that it just _seems_ like the system is faster or perhaps "more responsive" would be a better term.

EDIT: Is it just me or did you guys notice that the desktop version of memtest stress the CPU @ 100%? (If you run as many instances as you have cores.)

149th Should get you around 2500mhz NB just going by averages from what I've seen on chips with numbers in the 100-200 range.

Also, stepping on Phenom II's doesn't matter much right now, as we only have 2 Steppings out.

Phenom II's
& 945 95watt & 965BE (these have a new IMC)

Soon we'll have C3's though. They require less voltage, are less whats, and overclock farther.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Whats the first 5? I know mine doesn't reach the high clocks I hoped it would (CACZC stepping). But the CACYC stepping chips seem to attain rather high clocks @ low volts.

I gotta see what my X4 965 BE's stepping is now...









BTW, my chip's serial# ends in 127. I wonder if this is a good thing...


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Whats the first 5? I know mine doesn't reach the high clocks I hoped it would (CACZC stepping). But the CACYC stepping chips seem to attain rather high clocks @ low volts.

I didn't think it mattered as much as the last numbers/letters :0
But I've got the same as you, CACZC.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
That's some pretty cool stuff to know, Tator. My 720 says 90485, is that bad? Those aren't very low numbers









Not bad, but you may be limited to 2400mhz NB. It all depends.

Steppings & Code are all Laws of averages. You can always find a golden apple in a red apple tree.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I was unaware of a windows based memtest. Are you talking about memtest86+?

It's called MemTest 4.0


----------



## Tator Tot

QUIT POSTING AND LET ME CATCH UP GUYS! Sheesh.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
I gotta see what my X4 965 BE's stepping is now...









BTW, my chip's serial# ends in 127. I wonder if this is a good thing...









That's not a bad thing. As I told BO, you might be limited to 2600mhz NB, but it's still not bad.

Reference, my 05 965BE only gets 2800mhz max.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Holy cow! That gets me motivated to get my AM3 build off the ground.









So much to learn, though...


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks Omega does it matter if I run XP Pro X64 or does it only work on x86 based OS's?


----------



## Blitz6804

The learning curve is not really that bad Joe, at least, not in my experience. At the end of the day, it is still an AMD. It is not like going from K8 to Core i7, like StormX2 had to do.

N2Gaming: The way I read it, it is an x86 program. As such, it is limited to 2 GB of memory. So just run it twice, and you will cover it all. (Unless you get the x64 ISO, which is not freeware.)


----------



## N2Gaming

Hmmmm


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Wait, your stock NB is 1.250 V? I wonder: is my DFI anemic, or is it the difference between an AM2+ Deneb (at 1800 MHz) and an AM3 Deneb (at 2000 MHz) as my NB is 1.175 V at stock. (There is no option in my BIOS to adjust it either, if I want to adjust it, I must use K10Stat. My CPU-NB voltage is adjustable though.)

Blitz6804, some boards have it as 1.175 stock for CPU-NB but not all of them. As for that option not being in your bios that is actually a bummer. Have you tried different bios versions?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Ex: My CPU is xxxxxx90003, so my 7750BE was 3rd Cut from the wafer, and get highs NB Clocks without much effort.

Tator, you better keep that 90003 locked up in your mancave









Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Holy cow! That gets me motivated to get my AM3 build off the ground.









*So much to learn, though*...









Joe, honestly there isn't too much versus what we know now. There are only a few things to consider..."ACC" being one of them. That feature is still a mystery to me actually (in regards to how it works). Obviously we know it helps with overclocking ect but what exactly does it do in the chip/board to make this happen









Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I hope y'all are right about the learning curve.









I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer, that's for sure.


----------



## Blitz6804

As far as I know, ACC only helps overclock K10s (Agena and its derivatives) and not K10.5 (Deneb and its derivatives). The exception being if you get a cut Deneb, in which case, ACC might re-enable the disabled parts.

As to BIOS versions, all versions of my BIOS, from release to present day, lack an NB setting. I have a CPU-NB, but no NB. As I said, I can use K10Stat, which permits me to run a slightly higher NB, but until K10Stat loads, the PC might crash from an unstable NB. If K10Stat could adjust the NB multiplier on the fly (which it cannot with K10.5s) I would be golden, because I could set it in the BIOS to something stable, like 7x, and then have K10Stat bump it up to 9x when it bumps up the NB voltage.

Joe: You do not honestly expect us to believe that do you?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Thanks Omega does it matter if I run XP Pro X64 or does it only work on x86 based OS's?

N2Gaming, the only way to find out is to try it. The application should run in 32-bit emulation mode (WOW64). I have quite a few 32-bit apps on my Win 7 64-bit box.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

@joe, I second blitz on that. Who you trying to kid, kid?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, the only way to find out is to try it. The application should run in 32-bit emulation mode (WOW64). I have quite a few 32-bit apps on my Win 7 64-bit box.

Good luck

Thanks I guess I could install it on my corrupted os to see if it jacks up anything before installing it to my fresh install.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
As far as I know, ACC only helps overclock K10s (Agena and its derivatives) and not K10.5 (Deneb and its derivatives). The exception being if you get a cut Deneb, in which case, ACC might re-enable the disabled parts.

As to BIOS versions, all versions of my BIOS, from release to present day, lack an NB setting. I have a CPU-NB, but no NB.

Blitz6804, "ACC" +/- 2% has helped quite a few individuals achieve higher overclocks...especially those with the 550BE. Just yesterday I helped a user via PM whom was able to achieve a higher OC with adding +2% to each core.

Ok so you're kind of confusing me...I thought you said you did not have a setting to increase the cpu-nb voltage? Now you're saying you do but not for NB (chipset)?









Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Right, I have CPU-NB, but not NB VCore. Sorry for the confusion.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Tator, you better keep that 90003 locked up in your mancave









It's tight and secure.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, honestly there isn't too much versus what we know now. There are only a few things to consider..."ACC" being one of them. That feature is still a mystery to me actually (in regards to how it works). Obviously we know it helps with overclocking ect but what exactly does it do in the chip/board to make this happen








Good luck


Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
As far as I know, ACC only helps overclock K10s (Agena and its derivatives) and not K10.5 (Deneb and its derivatives). The exception being if you get a cut Deneb, in which case, ACC might re-enable the disabled parts.

Blitz nailed it.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Joe: You do not honestly expect us to believe that do you?

Well... I'm not "Slo-Mo Joe" without reason.









In all seriousness, though, there are many fellas (many of whom are part of our group here) who know a ton more than I do. I guess what I'm trying to say is I put a lot of stock in experience being a big part of knowledge. No experience (with AM3, as of yet) = No knowledge, as of this point in time.

But I hope to catch up.









As far as TT's mancave is concerned...


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Well... I'm not "Slo-Mo Joe" without reason.









In all seriousness, though, there are many fellas (many of whom are part of our group here) who know a ton more than I do. I guess what I'm trying to say is I put a lot of stock in experience being a big part of knowledge. No experience (with AM3, as of yet) = No knowledge, as of this point in time.

But I hope to catch up.









Dogs are never to old to learn new tricks.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
As far as TT's mancave is concerned...


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Dogs are never to old to learn new tricks.










 @ Hueristic. Take notes on ^ this...


----------



## Blitz6804

Okay, looking for someone with a knowledge of batch files. I am using the start command to spawn two GPU [email protected] clients automatically when I change CCC profiles. The syntax I have is:

start /d "DIRECTORY" [email protected]

The problem is, the CMD titles are DIRECTORY\\[email protected] Is there a way to rename this using the same start command?


----------



## Tator Tot

You should be able to Re-name one of the GPU Clients to xx-Win32-GPU2.exe can't you?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thanks I guess I could install it on my corrupted os to see if it jacks up anything before installing it to my fresh install.










N2Gaming, I just had it running on my Win 7 64-bit box and I didn't experience any issues. This is Memtest 4.0.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Blitz nailed it.


Tator, are you sure? I understand it's helpful for enabling/disabling cores but I have read posts from different users whom use this feature during their testing to achieve some higher overclocks...


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


149th Should get you around 2500mhz NB just going by averages from what I've seen on chips with numbers in the 100-200 range.

Also, stepping on Phenom II's doesn't matter much right now, as we only have 2 Steppings out.

Phenom II's
& 945 95watt & 965BE (these have a new IMC)

Soon we'll have C3's though. They require less voltage, are less whats, and overclock farther.


I'm testing the NB clock in 50MHz increments so far @ 2350 she's about to pass memtest again.

Regarding steppings, I know they're not as important as lets say the build date, but on average from what I've seen and read, which quite honestly isn't a whole hell of a lot, it seems the CACYC chips clocks better using less voltage.

And yeah the main reason I didn't get a quad was the old IMC on the 955/965. Not to mention I wanted the lower wattage model.

And what is this C3 you speak of?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I hope y'all are right about the learning curve.









I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer, that's for sure.










 Joe I'm sure you'll be just fine. It doesn't matter if your sharp as long as you're thorough. Which you strike me as the type of person that is.


----------



## Blitz6804

If I did Tator, then it would be DIRECTORY\\xx-Win32-GPU2.exe.

When I run my start menu shortcuts, the title bars read simply GPU0 and GPU1. I want to know if there is a way to name them as such with the BAT file.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator, are you sure? I understand it's helpful for enabling/disabling cores but I have read posts from different users whom use this feature during their testing to achieve some higher overclocks...


Well, some people have said. But according to AMD, K10.5's have ACC Enabled and on Auto with every CPU.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I'm testing the NB clock in 50MHz increments so far @ 2350 she's about to pass memtest again.


 Sounds good man.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Regarding steppings, I know they're not as important as lets say the build date, but on average from what I've seen and read, which quite honestly isn't a whole hell of a lot, it seems the CACYC chips clocks better using less voltage.


It's more of a chpi to chip basis. But generally the CACYC do require a little less voltage. Though, that's about it. They all still get around the same clocks mostly.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


And yeah the main reason I didn't get a quad was the old IMC on the 955/965. Not to mention I wanted the lower wattage model.


965BE has the newest IMC out to date.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


And what is this C3 you speak of?


 See Thread

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Joe I'm sure you'll be just fine. It doesn't matter if your sharp as long as you're thorough. Which you strike me as the type of person that is.


Yeah, the only new factor is the IMC. It's not that hard.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


If I did Tator, then it would be DIRECTORY\\xx-Win32-GPU2.exe.

When I run my start menu shortcuts, the title bars read simply GPU0 and GPU1. I want to know if there is a way to name them as such with the BAT file.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


And what is this C3 you speak of?


BlackOmega, it's just a new stepping however which allows for about the same averaged overclocks but with wayyyy lower voltages (cpu vcore). Here's more info from HondaGuy: http://www.overclock.net/amd-cpus/59...s-incl-c3.html.

I've received a few cpu-z screen shots from HondaGuy with 4Ghz overclocks with cpu voltages in the low 1.3's. Again though this I think was low cut binned chip (ie. 90010 ect).

Good luck

EDIT: Haha sorry Tator..we posted the same link


----------



## Tator Tot

It's all good Thlnk3r


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


@ Hueristic. Take notes on ^ this...










Hah! yeah, right now I just peruse the Phenom discussions. More than likely bulldozer will be out before I get a new chip. If I try to make my crappy brain learn this new stuff it'll be worthless by the time I need it!


----------



## Blitz6804

For the record,

Code:


Code:


start /d "DIRECTORY" /min [email protected]

works to start it and auto-minimize. I Googled for naming BAT programs, and tried,

Code:


Code:


start "TITLE" /d "DIRECTORY" /min [email protected]home-Win32-GPU.exe

but when doing so, TITLE did not actually display, and the client aborted with an unstable machine mere moments after launching.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Code:


Code:


start "TITLE" /d "DIRECTORY" /min [email protected]

but when doing so, TITLE did not actually display, and the client aborted with an unstable machine mere moments after launching.


Blitz, try to keep the script simple. Use whatever worked before and just use "TITLE". In other words remove the, "/min".

Let us know


----------



## Blitz6804

Removing the /min but leaving "TITLE" causes it to throw an unstable machine and quit. Removing the "TITLE" but leaving the /min causes it to run fine, but with the long title as already described.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Removing the /min but leaving "TITLE" causes it to throw an unstable machine and quit. Removing the "TITLE" but leaving the /min causes it to run fine, but with the long title as already described.

Blitz, try just using "Test Title" to see if the command is even working. If it does then perhaps there is something wrong with the executable.


----------



## BlackOmega

Hey do you fellers know if there's any issues running S&M on 64 bit OS's? How about on w7 x64?


----------



## shortfuse

would a gts 250 or newer card work fine with our old mobo? cuz im thinking of upgrading my 6800gt


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Hey do you fellers know if there's any issues running S&M on 64 bit OS's? How about on w7 x64?

Runs fine on Vista 64bit for me.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shortfuse* 
would a gts 250 or newer card work fine with our old mobo? cuz im thinking of upgrading my 6800gt

No problems whatsoever. (Just take a look at my rig, for example.







)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Hey do you fellers know if there's any issues running S&M on 64 bit OS's? How about on w7 x64?


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Runs fine on Vista 64bit for me.

Ditto

BlackOmega, see attached image. (Win 7 Ult 64-bit)


----------



## Blitz6804

Ran fine in Vista x64 for me as well. Works fine in Win 7 x64 as well.*

Also, I got the BAT working. Apparently, you cannot use the TITLE and DIRECTORY at once. I now have the BAT as follows:

Code:



Code:


cd DIRECTORY0
start "GPU0" /min [email protected]
cd DIRECTORY1
start "GPU1" /min [email protected]

*One small caveat... the built-in temperature sensor does not work. Speedfan natively integrates though, so no real problems result.


----------



## shortfuse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
No problems whatsoever. (Just take a look at my rig, for example.







)


u sure? cuz i dont trust DFI lol.... by the way since u guys have dual core whats the maximum fsb u can adjust ur htt? i know it should be around 1000


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shortfuse* 
would a gts 250 or newer card work fine with our old mobo? cuz im thinking of upgrading my 6800gt


A GTS250 is basically a 9800GTX+, although slightly altered with a lower power draw IIRC.

Joe, Tator, Blitz, thlnk3r thanks for verifying that S&M works just fine on the 64 bit OS.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shortfuse* 
u sure? cuz i dont trust DFI lol.... by the way since u guys have dual core whats the maximum fsb u can adjust ur htt? i know it should be around 1000

Aww, shortfuse, would I steer you wrong?









You can check my ASUS S939 system, which ALSO runs an HD 4870 sans problems.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shortfuse*


u sure? cuz i dont trust DFI lol.... by the way since u guys have dual core whats the maximum fsb u can adjust ur htt? i know it should be around 1000


 Wiat do you want to know max HTT(FSB) or HT link? The max one of my DFI Ultra-D's hit was 403 htt(FSB).

A while back I messed around with the HT link and got it to 1350 (I could be off on that), but there was no performance increase from doing so. Just leave your HT link ~1000 and you'll be ok.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
149th Should get you around 2500mhz NB just going by averages from what I've seen on chips with numbers in the 100-200 range.

Well Tator I think I blew the average out of the water.









She pulled 2550MHz NB @ 1.28v, and right now she's sittin at 2704MHz @ 1.37v.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well Tator I think I blew the average out of the water.









She pulled 2550MHz NB @ 1.28v, and right now she's sittin at 2704MHz @ 1.37v.


Ooh! I know whose homework I'm gonna be copying from when I start with my AM3 rig.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Ooh! I know whose homework I'm gonna be copying from when I start with my AM3 rig.










 O! SNAP! You mean I'm supposed to be writing this down
















j/k Actually this is the first overclock that I have actually written stuff down.









BTW, 15minutes in to 2750 @ 1.39v (BIOS setting), everest is reporting 1.42.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well Tator I think I blew the average out of the water.









She pulled 2550MHz NB @ 1.28v, and right now she's sittin at 2704MHz @ 1.37v.


Nice man.

I haven't crossfrerenced die cut with stepping, so it may be that your stepping is better with higher NB Clocks.

All in the laws of averages. Grats man


----------



## Blitz6804

Tator Tot: What would you say would be safe voltages for Northbridge and NB-CPU?

For the record, my BIOS has CPU Voltage Ad, NB-PCIe voltage, NB (actually NB-CPU), NB-HT, and SB. (Assuming my memory is somewhat correct.)


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Tator Tot: What would you say would be safe voltages for Northbridge and NB-CPU?

For the record, my BIOS has CPU Voltage Ad, NB-PCIe voltage, NB (actually NB-CPU), NB-HT, and SB. (Assuming my memory is somewhat correct.)


My 790FX's I keep at stock 1.26 or I bump max to 1.275. They don't need a bump ever though.

CPU-NB Voltage 1.4v for the max. With that you might see a 1-2*C raise in temps though. Pre warning.


----------



## Blitz6804

Wait, you're saying your NB is stock at 1.260 V? If AMD's Power Monitor, K10Stat, and others are to be believed, I stock at 1.175 V.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Nice man.

I haven't crossfrerenced die cut with stepping, so it may be that your stepping is better with higher NB Clocks.

All in the laws of averages. Grats man
































Thanks!

I think I've stabilized 2750.







It's been running memtest 4.00 for about 40 minutes now with no errors. This is @ 1.42v according to Everest, I actually set it to 1.39v in the BIOS. 
How will having the NB OC'd so far affect ability to set tight timings?


----------



## eternalenergy311

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=797911

Can my stats be updated now please? Not sure whom this was to be addressed to.

Thanks for everyones help.


----------



## BlackOmega

Good Job eternal









EDIT: Here's my results with my NB @ 2750. (RAM timings on auto)


----------



## eternalenergy311

That is fast....still trying to figure out how to get mine up to that 3.0ghz milestone. I seen a couple other machines on the roster did it with a Toledo. All in time and fun.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*









Thanks!

I think I've stabilized 2750.







It's been running memtest 4.00 for about 40 minutes now with no errors. This is @ 1.42v according to Everest, I actually set it to 1.39v in the BIOS. 
How will having the NB OC'd so far affect ability to set tight timings?


You should be able to set the timings the same as you had before for 1333mhz

Timings corelate to the sticks themselves, and the speed those sticks are running at, and not the NB Freq.

Atleast in my experience with AMD Setups. Intel's FSB/Skt 775 is a little different.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Wait, you're saying your NB is stock at 1.260 V? If AMD's Power Monitor, K10Stat, and others are to be believed, I stock at 1.175 V.


Blitz, perhaps your DFI board carries a different stock voltage for the "NB" (chipset) then Tator's Foxconn? This option isn't listed in your bios correct? So maybe the software apps aren't reporting it right? Who knows...I do know that most boards have their stock voltage for the "CPU-NB" as 1.175volts.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=797911

Can my stats be updated now please? Not sure whom this was to be addressed to.


Eternalenergy311, great job buddy. I updated the roster with your new overclock









Are you comfortable with trying 1.5volts to see if that gets you the big 3Ghz?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Here's my results with my NB @ 2750. (RAM timings on auto)


BlackOmega, congrats on the 2750Mhz NB Freq. Very nicely done!

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shortfuse*


u sure? cuz i dont trust DFI lol.... by the way since u guys have dual core whats the maximum fsb u can adjust ur htt? i know it should be around 1000


Trust Joe when he says it will be fine. As far as you hang up's on DFI. Throw your knowledge of DFI out the window w/regards to Socket 939 systems. I say this w/the utmost respect, becuase it is well known amongst the communities and forums that the DFI NF4 series mobo's are sought out more than any other mobo for socket 939 cpu's. Well for Desktop systems any way. And yes a NF4 mobo will support the latest GPU's... If you research this thread a little you will see just last week I posted a couple of scores of one of my DFI NF4 SLI DR mobo's running 2x9800GT grfx cards in SLI mode. The cards scored about 1K less in 3DMark06 then my AM2/+ systems running a x2 CPU. I belive the difference is becuase of the ability to overclock the HT link and cpu frequencies higher on the am2/+ mobo/cpu combo's.

Just in case you did not already know it....

DFI ROCKS...









Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, perhaps your DFI board carries a different stock voltage for the "NB" (chipset) then Tator's Foxconn? This option isn't listed in your bios correct? So maybe the software apps aren't reporting it right? Who knows...I do know that most boards have their stock voltage for the "CPU-NB" as 1.175volts.


 The way I understand it is that the AM3 set up's will have 1.175 default or factory voltage while the am2+ set up's will have 2.0 voltage for default or stock values.


----------



## thlnk3r

All this talk about DFI makes me miss my DFI SLI-DR


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

I have a question. Can the my computer run 4 sticks of ram without a problem? I don't remember exactly but i recall that the memory controller didn't like having all 4 slots filled.

Maybe i'm making things up but that is why i'm asking.


----------



## N2Gaming

Overclocking your cpu w/4 sticks is more stess on your IHS with any cpu and would make it more difficult if not impossible to run your ram at 1T command rate. You should not have any issues running 4x1GB sticks w/that cpu providing your mobo can handle it.









Hope this helps,

N2G


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

i was gonna pop another two 512's in there. I am still on stock so i don't over clock it..... much


----------



## eternalenergy311

"Eternalenergy311, great job buddy. I updated the roster with your new overclock









Are you comfortable with trying 1.5volts to see if that gets you the big 3Ghz?">>>thInk3R

Well I can't even get 2.9Ghz @ 1.47, or 1.49, so I am not sure that I can even go higher? the highest I can get psuedo stable at is a 287 HTT. Also, I can't get a decent overclock at all with multiplier lower than 10x. best I was able to even boot to windows was [email protected], or 2.7....but the memory was not having it. Also I have my "ValueRAM" already at 2.8v, 2.6 is stock, not sure how mucjh that stuff can handle either.


----------



## BlackOmega

deleted.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
My new 3dm06 best.









I'm not seeing it. Do I have to log on or something in order to see it?


----------



## Blitz6804

BlackOmega: You have to submit the result to your account before you can share. The ORB account is free, and requires a valid product key for each benchmark.

thlnk3r: It is possible I have my *NB and CPU-NB voltages backward. One stocks at 1.250 V, the other at 1.175 V (non-adjustable).

eternalenergy311: I just realized you are not on the offsite roster, and will be adding you right now. Check it out in about 15 minutes.

BigpoppaFrary: For 4x 512 MB, you might get a slightly lower overclock than with 2x 512 MB or 2x 1024 MB because of the added IMC stress as already described. However, 4x 512 MB (usually) does not suffer the same problems as 4x 1024 MB in that you should still be able to use the DDR-400 divider as compared to needing to drop to the DDR-333 divider with 4x 1024 MB.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


Well I can't even get 2.9Ghz @ 1.47, or 1.49, so I am not sure that I can even go higher? the highest I can get psuedo stable at is a 287 HTT. Also, I can't get a decent overclock at all with multiplier lower than 10x. best I was able to even boot to windows was [email protected], or 2.7....but the memory was not having it. Also I have my "ValueRAM" already at 2.8v, 2.6 is stock, not sure how mucjh that stuff can handle either.


Eternalenergy311, when you tried 2.9Ghz did you adjust your memory divider? I wouldn't recommend going too high with the memory voltage especially if the memory doesn't have any heatspreaders. Most of the time the IC's determine the optimum VDimm.

Good luck

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


thlnk3r: It is possible I have my CPU and CPU-NB voltages backward. One stocks at 1.250 V, the other at 1.175 V (non-adjustable).


Blitz, what is possible? Wasn't your original question about why your stock voltage for "NB" differed from Tator's


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I'm not seeing it. Do I have to log on or something in order to see it?

Sorry bout that, looks like I'll have to post a screen shot.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
BlackOmega: You have to submit the result to your account before you can share. The ORB account is free, and requires a valid product key for each benchmark.

Well isn't that some BS. O well here's a screenie.


----------



## N2Gaming

Not bad at all BO...

Does the 4870 card spank a 9800GT. I ask because your about 500-1000 points above my best 3DMark06 score running 9800GT's in sli w/my x4 940 cpu at 3600MHz


----------



## Blitz6804

thlnk3r: I said it may be possible I have my CPU-NB and NB voltages confused. AMD Power Monitor shows my NB as 1800 MHz (9x) and 1.175 V. My BIOS says the NB is 1.330 V, 1.250 V at stock. So does that mean my NB-Vcore is the 1.330 V and the CPU-NB is 1.175 V?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
So does that mean my NB-Vcore is the 1.330 V and the CPU-NB is 1.175 V?

Blitz6804, it definitely sounds like it though the correlation between the two names is a bit confusing (ie. bios versus software).


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Not bad at all BO...

Does the 4870 card spank a 9800GT. I ask because your about 500-1000 points above my best 3DMark06 score running 9800GT's in sli w/my x4 940 cpu at 3600MHz


 Thanks









And yeah the 4870 does actually do better than 9800GT's, which are really nothing more than re-branded 8800's. 4870's are on par with GTX 260/216's. 
My resolution is on the bottom end of seeing any real benefit from the large amount of memory amongst the GPU's.

All this overclocking tweaking and fine tuning has netted me an almost 4000 point increase from stock speeds. Although, I have noticed since I put the second card in my NB and MB temps have gone up.

You guys think that 61C/62C is an acceptable temp for the NB?


----------



## N2Gaming

I was told by foxconn that my NB at 50+ to 60 is fine and when it gets up into the 80's C then that is when I should be concerned but it's an Nvidia chipset so I don't know about yours... I think you should run your system at stock spds w/2 GPU's to see what kind of temp variances you get vs when it's overlcocked w/2 GPU's that may tell you a lot right there. if your NB/SB chips are close to that same temp then I would think that is normal for it to run a little hotter when OC'd. Call MSI and see what they say about it. Or you could call AMD's Tech supt and ask them how high the 790fx and 750 SB chips are caple of handling...


----------



## BlackOmega

well since I put the other card in my NB temp has gone up 9C at idle (47C to 56C). But the delta (temp change) from idle to load is only 5C.

I think I'm going to install a spare 120mm fan that I have laying around. I just noticed that the bottom card sucks up all of the intake air from the front fan, where as before the upper card would suck the air up and make it go across the NB heat sink.
Then I'll install my XFi too : Only sucky thing is that I have to use the 3rd PCIe slot when in 2x crossfire so the XFi is going to sit in between the 2 GPUs'. I hope there won't be too much interference.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


well since I put the other card in my NB temp has gone up 9C at idle (47C to 56C). But the delta (temp change) from idle to load is only 5C.


BlackOmega, considering that the chipset is passively cooled I would say low 60'ish is acceptable. That always seems to be the problem when the video cards are RIGHT on top of the chipset. Arg

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, considering that the chipset is passively cooled I would say low 60'ish is acceptable. That always seems to be the problem when the video cards are RIGHT on top of the chipset. Arg

Good luck


 Ain't that the truth. I recall on one of DFI boards that when I mounted the fan pointing at the NB/VRM's at a slight angle to the board it brought down temps quite nicely. When I get back from getting my alignment fixed, I'll mount it up and see if there's any improvement.

But for now here's some pics of when I was lapping.









The initial product:










The center was definitely concave:










The end result (I didn't polish it out):










The base of my Big Typhoon. It's permanently discolored from how hot some of my 939's have gotten (1.92v anyone







)










And the final result with the Big Typhoon installed. It just barely clears the RAM.


















I'll post some more pics of everything installed later.


----------



## Tator Tot

SO MUCH TO TALK ABOUT!







I love this thread.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
thlnk3r: It is possible I have my CPU and CPU-NB voltages backward. One stocks at 1.250 V, the other at 1.175 V (non-adjustable).

Your stock CPU-NB Voltage should be 1.1v & stock CPU voltage should be 1.325v

Also, both CPU-NB (IMC) & CPU max voltage is 1.55v

Check out the AMD Papers in this thread. Its an official PDF from AMD.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Not bad at all BO...

Does the 4870 card spank a 9800GT. I ask because your about 500-1000 points above my best 3DMark06 score running 9800GT's in sli w/my x4 940 cpu at 3600MHz

Yeah, HD4870 512mb ~ GTX260
HD4870 1GB ~ GTX260 Core 216

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
thlnk3r: I said it may be possible I have my CPU-NB and NB voltages confused. AMD Power Monitor shows my NB as 1800 MHz (9x) and 1.175 V. My BIOS says the NB is 1.330 V, 1.250 V at stock. So does that mean my NB-Vcore is the 1.330 V and the CPU-NB is 1.175 V?

You sure it's not your 790FX Voltage your are reading?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
You guys think that 61C/62C is an acceptable temp for the NB?









Yeah, AMD says don't peak the 790FX over 80*C or let it idle in the 75*C range.

But below that is fine. The 790FX runs pretty hot as its still the (now older) 55nm node, with twice the PCIe lanes of any other chipset. Though, if you could, remove the heatsink, clean the stock paste, lap, use quality paste, and pressure mod your NB for about a 5*C drop in temps.

The Gigabyte 790FX/MSI 790FX/Asus 790FX boards all have loose heatsinks.

+1 for DFI & Jetway though.

DFI's 790FXB-M3H5 was pretty tight, & Jetway used spring screws.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
well since I put the other card in my NB temp has gone up 9C at idle (47C to 56C). But the delta (temp change) from idle to load is only 5C.

That's still not bad. If you idle at 56*C then I would suggest just getting some airflow to that area, or more in the case. You'll see temps drop quick.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I think I'm going to install a spare 120mm fan that I have laying around. I just noticed that the bottom card sucks up all of the intake air from the front fan, where as before the upper card would suck the air up and make it go across the NB heat sink.

If you can, pick up an Antec Spot cool It's worth the $10. They do an amazing job on low/medium for NB cooling.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Then I'll install my XFi too : Only sucky thing is that I have to use the 3rd PCIe slot when in 2x crossfire so the XFi is going to sit in between the 2 GPUs'. I hope there won't be too much interference.

It shouldn't be to much of a problem EMI shielding is a waste on most sound cards in a computer system.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
But for now here's some pics of when I was lapping.








The initial product:
The center was definitely concave:
The end result (I didn't polish it out):
The base of my Big Typhoon. It's permanently discolored from how hot some of my 939's have gotten (1.92v anyone







)
And the final result with the Big Typhoon installed. It just barely clears the RAM.








I'll post some more pics of everything installed later.

Nice job on the lapping BO.

If you want some slightly better temps on your Big Typhoon, get some foam and fill in those gaps where the heat pipes are. It helps direct the air to the fins more.


----------



## Blitz6804

Oops, that was a typo, it should have read "NB" instead of "CPU." *Opens BIOS manual.* I have:

CPU VID Special Add (adds voltage above 1.350 V to the CPU)*
SB PLL 1.2 V (DFI calls "South bridge working voltage")
NB Core Voltage (DFI calls "CPU to NB bus voltage")
NB PCIE Voltage (DFI calls "CPU to NB bus voltage")
NB HT Voltage (DFI calls "CPU to NB bus voltage")

They stock at Â±0 mV, 1.200 V, 1.250 V, 1.120 V, and 1.280 V respectively. All but the CPU voltage can go up to 1.500 V, I do not remember the maximum that the CPU can go up to.

*1.350 V in the BIOS is 1.326 V in Windows. My Brisbane stocked at 1.325 V in the BIOS and read 1.308 in Windows. A 50 mV bump brings me to 1.376 rather than the expected 1.400 V.


----------



## Tator Tot

Those all sound right including the Drop in voltage.

the 790FX is supposed to be 1.2v & SB600 is 1.25v IIRC.

EDIT: YES YES YES! I am finally getting the DFI 785G board to test!


----------



## Blitz6804

Congrats Tator, it is a sharp looking Micro ATX board.

Regards my voltages, what would you suggest setting each to for the highest safe voltage for 24/7 operation? What is up with the 1.175 V reported as "Northbridge" in K10Stat and AMD Power Monitor? It is interesting to note that if I set the SB to 1.500 V, the board beeps at me constantly, I believe as an overvolt warning.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Congrats Tator, it is a sharp looking Micro ATX board.

Regards my voltages, what would you suggest setting each to for the highest safe voltage for 24/7 operation? What is up with the 1.175 V reported as "Northbridge" in K10Stat and AMD Power Monitor? It is interesting to note that if I set the SB to 1.500 V, the board beeps at me constantly, I believe as an overvolt warning.


I wouldn't set the chipsets (790FX/SB750) over 1.35v on any of my boards. Never had to, and that's a safe voltage to my knowledge. (As there max is 1.4v)

SB600 might be higher. But I cannot say for sure.

I'd keep your NB HT & PCIe voltage at default (what they are now) unless you start having some issues with your 2 HD4870x2's on a high overclock (IE, VPU Recovery going into effect in CCC) then up the NB PCIe voltage to 1.3

EDIT: As I've said before, Chipsets don't really have much to do with AMD Overclocking now. It's all about the CPU/RAM & Cooling mostly.

Boards power management setup (IE, VRMs/MOSFETs & Power Phases come into effect and the boards ability to regulate it all. But chipset isn't a factor)

EDIT2: K10 Stat is probably reporting the voltage on your IMC. If it's at stock 1800mhz it's probably running low because of the Vdroop on your board.


----------



## Wildcard36qs

I love how Omega is showing his Phenom II in the 939 club hahaha


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


The base of my Big Typhoon. It's permanently discolored from how hot some of my 939's have gotten (1.92v anyone







)


BlackOmega, awesome lap job









You might actually be able to get rid of the discoloration with some polish. The same thing happens on my SI-128 and polish seems to do the trick.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Wildcard36qs*


I love how Omega is showing his Phenom II in the 939 club hahaha


Me to.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Me to.


What's funny is the most of the frequent posters here will soon have (or already have) AM2+/AM3 rigs


----------



## N2Gaming

Thlnk3r, not me for a while any way. I may be good up till the release of AM4 w/my am2+ x4 940 BE


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thlnk3r, not me for a while any way. I may be good up till the release of AM4 w/my am2+ x4 940 BE










AM3+ is probably coming Q4 next year or Q1 in 2011.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thlnk3r, not me for a while any way. I may be good up till the release of AM4 w/my am2+ x4 940 BE










N2Gaming, maybe I should edit my post with "AM2+/AM3"


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Eternalenergy311, when you tried 2.9Ghz did you adjust your memory divider? I wouldn't recommend going too high with the memory voltage especially if the memory doesn't have any heatspreaders. Most of the time the IC's determine the optimum VDimm.

Good luck



th1kn3R:

I have the memory volts back down to 2.7 now, just in case. As for the memory divider, it is at 266 or CPU:15. That puts the memory well under the 200mhz rating, should I have to go lower? 2.9ghz should only out it at 193 right? So to answer your question, no ,I have not lowered it anymore. But if you think that would work...I will certainly try almost any suggestion.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, maybe I should edit my post with "AM2+/AM3"


----------



## Blitz6804

Wildcard36qs: Maybe because Phenom II is the first good thing AMD did since 939? Windsor? Medicore at best. Brisbane, a lateral move. Agena? Crushing disappointment. Do not even get me started on Turions. Finally with Deneb and AM3, AMD has made a product fanboys like myself can be proud of.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


I have the memory volts back down to 2.7 now, just in case. As for the memory divider, it is at 266 or CPU:15. That puts the memory well under the 200mhz rating, should I have to go lower? 2.9ghz should only out it at 193 right? So to answer your question, no ,I have not lowered it anymore. But if you think that would work...I will certainly try almost any suggestion.


Eternalenergy311, actually no that should be fine. Have you tried setting the sub-timings to 3-3-3-8? Those are pretty relaxed and should help eliminate any issues with the memory unless of course one of the sticks is faulty. Try small incremental increases like 1-2Mhz. Perhaps you have reached the limit of your processor. HT Clock speed wise it seems like you still had room.

Good luck


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Do not even get me started on Turions.


Blitz, Turion was a mobile chip...what do you expect









Look at the Intel Atom processor...it's not the most powerful thing but it gets the job done.


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Eternalenergy311, actually no that should be fine. Have you tried setting the sub-timings to 3-3-3-8? Those are pretty relaxed and should help eliminate any issues with the memory unless of course one of the sticks is faulty. Try small incremental increases like 1-2Mhz. Perhaps you have reached the limit of your processor. HT Clock speed wise it seems like you still had room.

Good luck










I had the same results on the stock timing, 3-3-3-8, and even on 3-4-4-8. And I have tried small increments as well, still no dice. This may just be my limit. As for a bad stick, they ran through memtest86 ok, and no errors under any other benchmarks eg; prime95.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, Turion was a mobile chip...what do you expect









Look at the Intel Atom processor...it's not the most powerful thing but it gets the job done.


The new Neo series coming from AMD will have my babies.

No Lie: RS880G (880G/SB810 w/ HD4200 IGP) & Turion Neo @ 2.0ghz 20watts will be such a dream come true for mobile computing.

Put that platform on a 12" screen and nothing will stop you besides changing your battery after 8 hours.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


I had the same results on the stock timing, 3-3-3-8, and even on 3-4-4-8. And I have tried small increments as well, still no dice. This may just be my limit. As for a bad stick, they ran through memtest86 ok, and no errors under any other benchmarks eg; prime95.


Eternalenergy311, sounds like you've done proper testing with everything.

Does anyone else have suggestions?


----------



## thlnk3r

Tator, what are the other things we should expect from the release of AM3+?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator, what are the other things we should expect from the release of AM3+?


6 Core CPU's.

Possibly DDR3 1600mhz native support.

New Chipsets

SATA 6Gb/s
PCIe 3.0
USB 3.0
eSATA 6Gb/s


----------



## thlnk3r

The speeds between USB 2.0 and USB 3.0 are just massive....


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
The speeds between USB 2.0 and USB 3.0 are just massive....

USB 3.0 is very similar to current eSATA Specs so yeah...it's just a whole 'nother world.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Those all sound right including the Drop in voltage.

the 790FX is supposed to be 1.2v & SB600 is 1.25v IIRC.

EDIT: YES YES YES! I am finally getting the DFI 785G board to test!

Very nice! Any idea when DFI will release a full ATX BI AM3 board?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Wildcard36qs* 
I love how Omega is showing his Phenom II in the 939 club hahaha

hey hey now, I still have 2 939 rigs running (folding) 24/7.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, awesome lap job









You might actually be able to get rid of the discoloration with some polish. The same thing happens on my SI-128 and polish seems to do the trick.

Good luck

Thanks thlnk3r.







Do you believe I actually started with 60 grit.









I tried using some automotive polishing compound I have laying and it didn't seem to do anything at all to remove the discolorations.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Wildcard36qs: Maybe because Phenom II is the first good thing AMD did since 939? Windsor? Medicore at best. Brisbane, a lateral move. Agena? Crushing disappointment. Do not even get me started on Turions. Finally with Deneb and AM3, AMD has made a product fanboys like myself can be proud of.

I couldn't agree more.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Eternalenergy311, sounds like you've done proper testing with everything.

Does anyone else have suggestions?

Am I missing something? What is the issue he is having?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Very nice! Any idea when DFI will release a full ATX BI AM3 board?


DFI's planning a UT 790FX board, but that's probably cancled till the new chipsets come.

It's speculated that there AMD 8 series lineup will go like this

DFI BI 880G
DFI DK 870 
DFI JR 890GX
DFI LT 890X
DFI UT 890FX

Nothing official...just some words that might have fallen from a "mysterious source"


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I tried using some automotive polishing compound I have laying and it didn't seem to do anything at all to remove the discolorations.


BlackOmega, you may have to actually go over some sandpaper again to get rid of the discolorations. All though it may not be necessary since it's really not effecting your cooling.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Am I missing something? What is the issue he is having?


He's just trying to push his processor a little bit further....hoping for the 3Ghz mark I believe


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


DFI's planning a UT 790FX board, but that's probably cancled till the new chipsets come.

It's speculated that there AMD 8 series lineup will go like this

DFI BI 880G
DFI DK 870 
DFI JR 890GX
DFI LT 890X
DFI UT 890FX

*Nothing official...just some words that might have fallen from a "mysterious source"*










 Now I'm curious.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, you may have to actually go over some sandpaper again to get rid of the discolorations. *All though it may not be necessary since it's really not effecting your cooling.*


 My thoughts exactly. Like who really is going to see that







_IF_ I ever decide to sell it I'd probably clean it up so it would look nice.









But hey check this out, my CPUz Validation came back with a big red X.







Wth?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


But hey check this out, my CPUz Validation came back with a big red X.







Wth?










BlackOmega, this is the second rejected validation I've seen this week. There was another user in the M2N32-SLI club thread that was experiencing this problem. Maybe N2Gaming can shed some light on that...


----------



## BlackOmega

I just checked to be sure and I do have the latest version. That's quite interesting.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I just checked to be sure and I do have the latest version. That's quite interesting.











BlackOmega, are you able to validate at stock settings?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, are you able to validate at stock settings?


 Honestly I have no idea. I'll have to check it out tomorrow. Errr... rather later today.


----------



## BlackOmega

ok it's later







.

Ok so CPUz wont validate at stock either.


----------



## Kryton

I had that happen at first with my MSI 790 but after trying it a second time, the problem went away. 
I don't know why this happens and wish I could help but at least my validations seem to work. What OS are you using when you try it?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Now I'm curious.









We'll just say that some old forum go-ers may have picked up a thing or two.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
But hey check this out, my CPUz Validation came back with a big red X.







Wth?










Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
ok it's later







.

Ok so CPUz wont validate at stock either.










Try a different version of CPUz, IE, earlier build.

I had that issue for a bit, and some of my stable Overclocks would not validate on CPUz's Database for some reason.

I sent an Email to CPUID about it, but I never got a response back.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
I had that happen at first with my MSI 790 but after trying it a second time, the problem went away.
I don't know why this happens and wish I could help but at least my validations seem to work. What OS are you using when you try it?

Using XP pro sp3.

Kryton, have you noticed when you start to get a higher OC that you start getting artifacts?

When I get to 3500Mhz or more I start getting artifacts in games like Far Cry 2, and when I run 3dmark I get frame skipping about once every second. Do you get the same thing? And out of curiosity what BIOS are you running?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
We'll just say that some old forum go-ers may have picked up a thing or two.

Try a different version of CPUz, IE, earlier build.

I had that issue for a bit, and some of my stable Overclocks would not validate on CPUz's Database for some reason.

I sent an Email to CPUID about it, but I never got a response back.

I'll give that a try and see what happens.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Using XP pro sp3.

Kryton, have you noticed when you start to get a higher OC that you start getting artifacts?

When I get to 3500Mhz or more I start getting artifacts in games like Far Cry 2, and when I run 3dmark I get frame skipping about once every second. Do you get the same thing? And out of curiosity what BIOS are you running?

I'll give that a try and see what happens.

SP3 finally!








could be power supply related, heat or voltage (either starved or saturated).

Sorry I can't be more specific but this can be caused by many things but is more than likely a migration or voltage drop issue.









:edit: This happens when your GPU is at stock right? Otherwise it could be many other issues. Test that first. I assumed it was with GPU @ stock as your working on your cpu right now.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
SP3 finally!








could be power supply related, heat or voltage (either starved or saturated).

Sorry I can't be more specific but this can be caused by many things but is more than likely a migration or voltage drop issue.









:edit: This happens when your GPU is at stock right? Otherwise it could be many other issues. Test that first. I assumed it was with GPU @ stock as your working on your cpu right now.

Yep GPU(s) are at stock settings.

I'm kind of doubting that it's the PSU as this doesn't happen lower CPU clock speeds. And it doesn't matter whether I ramp up the multiplier or HTT, once it hits a certain speed the artifacts/skipping starts.
Also, NB speed plays no part in it, whether it's at 2000MHz or 2700MHz it still does it.
I've been thinking about this for a couple of days now and I am starting to wonder if I should up some of the PCIe voltages. Or perhaps even the upping the PCIe frequency to match the rest of the system.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Yep GPU(s) are at stock settings.

I'm kind of doubting that it's the PSU as this doesn't happen lower CPU clock speeds. And it doesn't matter whether I ramp up the multiplier or HTT, once it hits a certain speed the artifacts/skipping starts.
Also, NB speed plays no part in it, whether it's at 2000MHz or 2700MHz it still does it.
I've been thinking about this for a couple of days now and I am starting to wonder if I should up some of the PCIe voltages. Or perhaps even the upping the PCIe frequency to match the rest of the system.









Is the chip stable enough to lower the vid and run the benchmark that is skipping? Could be a timeing issue but I'm not betting on it. If the gpu is at stock with locked pci-e then I'm thinking voltage or migration due to heat. and as you keep your heat under control the Frequency plus voltage can be causing your substrate to fail.


----------



## N2Gaming

Omega, one of our vast OCN members that don't like to follow instructions when asking for help was having this problem w/CPUZ not validating. He claims a fresh OS install fixed his problem. *Link* to his post once he got it working.


----------



## Blitz6804

That has happened to me before BlackOmega. Try restarting the computer, verifying your system clock matches present time, and creative a new CVF file. Some clocks require two to four CVFs before the system finally takes it.


----------



## N2Gaming

Blits, why didn't I think of that. I do remember a long time ago not being able to validate due to my system date being off...


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Using XP pro sp3.

Kryton, have you noticed when you start to get a higher OC that you start getting artifacts?

When I get to 3500Mhz or more I start getting artifacts in games like Far Cry 2, and when I run 3dmark I get frame skipping about once every second. Do you get the same thing? And out of curiosity what BIOS are you running?

I'll give that a try and see what happens.

Honestly I haven't used this rig for gaming yet. All I have are some Nvidia cards and a few really older ones for now. They work fine with my older stuff and probrably would with this one too, I simply haven't tried it yet.

I really need to update my video card hardware before too long.

As to the BIOS version, I'm running the 1.5 file for now. Already got the 1.6 file but haven't loaded it yet because I'm not using the machine at the moment.

As to why I'm not using it, here's why:
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=797863

Looking to see how far I can really take it. Did that with a DFI NF2 Ultra Infinity MB. Doesn't like high FSB speeds for some reason but can throw plenty of voltage at the chip - That's why the multi is so high.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
As to why I'm not using it, here's why:
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=797863

Wow, that's loads faster than the 800MHz Duron I used to run in my Socket A. Very impressive, I can't even reach those clocks on my 939.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Is the chip stable enough to lower the vid and run the benchmark that is skipping? Could be a timeing issue but I'm not betting on it. If the gpu is at stock with locked pci-e then I'm thinking voltage or migration due to heat. and as you keep your heat under control the Frequency plus voltage can be causing your substrate to fail.

Hue, I'm not sure if I'm following you here on this. Which VID are you referring to, and of course MSI calls everything associated with CPU voltage something different entirely. At any rate here's all of the voltages that are customizable:

CPU VDD Voltage
CPU-NB VDD Voltage
CPU Voltage
CPU-NB Voltage
CPU-PLL Voltage
CPU DDR-PHY Voltage
DDR VREF Voltage
NB Voltage
NB-PCI-e Voltage
NB-PCIe I/O Voltage
HT Link Voltage
SB Voltage

Also, you mentioned heat being a likely suspect. My CPU even at 1.495v idles ~30C And loads @ 49C. And obviously with the lower clocks are lower volts and much lower temps. I'm thinking that the signal from the PCIe lanes is getting muddled somehow. So I was contemplating increasing the "NB -PCI-e" and "NB-PCI-e I/O" voltages to see if that would improve signal strength and take care of the video anomalies.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Omega, one of our vast OCN members that don't like to follow instructions when asking for help was having this problem w/CPUZ not validating. He claims a fresh OS install fixed his problem. *Link* to his post once he got it working.

I suppose if all else fails, that might be the only option.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
That has happened to me before BlackOmega. Try restarting the computer, verifying your system clock matches present time, and creative a new CVF file. Some clocks require two to four CVFs before the system finally takes it.

I'll try submitting it a few times and see if it takes. I verified the system clock/date's match.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
At any rate here's all of the voltages that are customizable:

CPU VDD Voltage
CPU-NB VDD Voltage
CPU Voltage
CPU-NB Voltage
CPU-PLL Voltage
CPU DDR-PHY Voltage
DDR VREF Voltage
NB Voltage
NB-PCI-e Voltage
NB-PCIe I/O Voltage
HT Link Voltage
SB Voltage









My board only has 3: CPU, RAM and Chipset.








EDIT: Actually, I forgot AGP Voltage.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 







My board only has 3: CPU, RAM and Chipset.








EDIT: Actually, I forgot AGP Voltage.

I know when I first saw it I was like







but now I'm a little bit more familiar with them.









As for my video skipping issues, I think I've actually been able to "capture" it, so it can be seen visually.

Ok here is the FC2 benchmark I ran @ stock speeds. Notice how smooth the graphed line is.










And now here is when I ran it @ 3600 with CFX enabled. Notice it looks like a saw.


----------



## Hueristic

OK, BO I'm confused now. Are you saying it only happens with crossfire???

I did not see that at all.

As far as I have understood your problem is happening with 1 vid card at stock. If that is not true then you have to see if it happens with only 1 vid card.

AFA the CPUv If it's a communication error internal to the cpu then it cauld be any of those settings. Try lowering one at a time. These things are usually solved by plugging away methodically at the problem.

But I would strip out all unnecessary gear to help narrow down the issue. AFA a signal problem on the pci-e lane I have heard of boards that have issues at specific frequencies. You can try to jump over that area if you can identify it (If indeed that is your issue). 
I've heard bad things about overclocking the pci-e bridge so I'm not recommending it, But others have different opinions on this. I don't have first hand experience as I've never had to change the PCI-e bridge speed.


----------



## BlackOmega

Ok so I just ran the bench with everything @ stock (dual GPU) and I'm still getting the skipping.










I'm going to run it again with vsync enabled.

EDIT: I ran it again with Vsync enabled and it's still doing it. I'm going to strip it down later (gotta get ready for Halloween) and run it with a single GPU, and I'll try each GPU individually to see if anything changes.


----------



## BlackOmega

Ok so I ran each GPU individually with everything @ stock except for the RAM timings which are set to 6-5-5-15-20-1T.

And here's my results:

Card1:









Card2










It's still jaggy. Not as bad as with 2 GPU's, but it's definitely still noticeable. Perhaps all of my RAM testing has corrupted my OS?

EDIT: I'm going to run memtest just for good measure.


----------



## Hueristic

BO your not OCing your CPU with those tight MEm timings are you?

Remember when you stress a part to find it's max everything else should be as loose as possible to keep the focus on the piece your working on. And you should run as few parts as possible.

If that is the case right now I would try going through the cpuv gambit one at a time and see if you can smooth that line out.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


BO your not OCing your CPU with those tight MEm timings are you?

Remember when you stress a part to find it's max everything else should be as loose as possible to keep the focus on the piece your working on. And you should run as few parts as possible.

If that is the case right now I would try going through the cpuv gambit one at a time and see if you can smooth that line out.


 I left the timings on auto when I was finding the max HTT and NB clocks. I even made sure that the frequency never exceeded 1333.

The tightest I ran with the CPU OC'd to 3600 was 7-7-7-20-27-1T @ DDR3 1500 with the NB @ 2700MHz.

So you think I should try upping the vcore? I have set to auto right now which defaults to 1.325v.

Ok I'll have to check that out when I get back from being Cpt. Hook.......YAR!


----------



## Blitz6804

I do not understand why it is stuttering with a single card, but I can perfectly understand it doing so with dual cards. (One of the biggest flaws of Crossfire or SLI is the microstutter with multiple cards.) For fun, try running a quick defrag prior to running the test again.


----------



## Kryton

Omega, be careful you don't cripple or kill the sticks or the IMC in your chip. I have a problem with my sticks not wanting to run at DDR3 speeds after doing some high clocks with high speeds with my RAM. You may be experiencing getting close to the threshhold of what it could do here. 
I'd say give it a try with a fairly low divider along with some loose RAM timings to see if the problem improves. If it does, you'll have your answer.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Omega, be careful you don't cripple or kill the sticks or the IMC in your chip. I have a problem with my sticks not wanting to run at DDR3 speeds after doing some high clocks with high speeds with my RAM. You may be experiencing getting close to the threshhold of what it could do here. 
I'd say give it a try with a fairly low divider along with some loose RAM timings to see if the problem improves. If it does, you'll have your answer.


His sticks are D9GTS's rated at 1866mhz so he's fine right now.

For that matter, they can take a beating. Most of the XS guys have the actual Crucial sticks and bench with them all the time.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


His sticks are D9GTS's rated at 1866mhz so he's fine right now.

For that matter, they can take a beating. Most of the XS guys have the actual Crucial sticks and bench with them all the time.


That's good to hear.

N2, check your top 20 thread for updates from me. I also noted several entries I had being listed on air but these were done on H2O. I gave a list of these in the thread so you can fix that.


----------



## N2Gaming

Happy Halloween guys.

Kryton, I'll update that thread later.


----------



## thlnk3r

BlackOmega, could this problem be game specific? Is "spread spectrum" an available option in your BIOS?

Good luck


----------



## nategr8ns

So the stuttering is when using CFX or is the stuttering happening with just a single card in boring mode? I don't really know how CFX works, and I don't know if you have an onboard GPU.


----------



## N2Gaming

Omega here is an idea. Have you tested your power supply voltages for power spikes while under load in single and duel gfx card usage to rule out power issues?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I do not understand why it is stuttering with a single card, but I can perfectly understand it doing so with dual cards. (One of the biggest flaws of Crossfire or SLI is the microstutter with multiple cards.) For fun, try running a quick defrag prior to running the test again.

I'll give that a go.

I too am baffled by the stuttering. Ironically, the stuttering is _less_ noticeable with 2 cards.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Omega, be careful you don't cripple or kill the sticks or the IMC in your chip. I have a problem with my sticks not wanting to run at DDR3 speeds after doing some high clocks with high speeds with my RAM. You may be experiencing getting close to the threshold of what it could do here.
I'd say give it a try with a fairly low divider along with some loose RAM timings to see if the problem improves. If it does, you'll have your answer.


Like Tator said these sticks can take one hell of a beating. Right now I have them set to 1333 @ 6-5-5-15-20-1T. When I went out last night I let memtest run for quite a while. It made 19 passes without a single error at those timings. (Everything else is set to stock for the time being).

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, could this problem be game specific? Is "spread spectrum" an available option in your BIOS?

Good luck

It very well could be specific to the game. But it also has a noticeable skip when running 3dm06.

Regarding spread spectrum, it makes no difference whether it's enabled or not.









I think I might run furmark to see if I get any anomalies.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
So the stuttering is when using CFX or is the stuttering happening with just a single card in boring mode? I don't really know how CFX works, and I don't know if you have an onboard GPU.

Happens with either configuration 2 GPU's or 1. And no there's no on-board graphics.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Omega here is an idea. Have you tested your power supply voltages for power spikes while under load in single and duel gfx card usage to rule out power issues?

I'll try that too. Can't hurt anyway.


----------



## Tator Tot

BO, this just hit me, but stress your RAID array and see if your machine has a simlar stutter at the desktop level.

A bad/faulty array can cause stutter like that if one of the drives is going out.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*









BO, this just hit me, but stress your RAID array and see if your machine has a simlar stutter at the desktop level.

A bad/faulty array can cause stutter like that if one of the drives is going out.


Tator, I was kind of thinking about that last night but I didn't bother suggesting it because I couldn't really think of any reasons why the array would do that


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator, I was kind of thinking about that last night but I didn't bother suggesting it because I couldn't really think of any reasons why the array would do that










Old drives are old.

It's always a possibility.

I know I have two drives going the way side right now, they are not that old, but they've been used alot.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 







BO, this just hit me, but stress your RAID array and see if your machine has a simlar stutter at the desktop level.

A bad/faulty array can cause stutter like that if one of the drives is going out.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Tator, I was kind of thinking about that last night but I didn't bother suggesting it because I couldn't really think of any reasons why the array would do that









That's a good suggestion, thanks guys.









Maybe it's the controller. The array has never seemed right from the get go. And when booting up it seems to take a long time for the board to find the array. Sometimes (not usually) it finds the array very quickly.

As for the age of the drives, they're not really that old. Less than 1 year. (I'll have to look up how long it's actually been).

Other than S&M (if that's even a good one) what type of programs do you guys suggest I use to stress the array?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
That's a good suggestion, thanks guys.









Maybe it's the controller. The array has never seemed right from the get go. And when booting up it seems to take a long time for the board to find the array. Sometimes (not usually) it finds the array very quickly.

As for the age of the drives, they're not really that old. Less than 1 year. (I'll have to look up how long it's actually been).

Other than S&M (if that's even a good one) what type of programs do you guys suggest I use to stress the array?

HD Tach & HD Tune


----------



## BlackOmega

I have both of those I never was aware that there was an actual stress test in there.


----------



## twowheelmotion

Hey guys, can I play too? Here is a shot of what I was able to do w/ my rig before joining the OCN community. All I did was push the FSB a bit. I am pretty new to this and learning lots already.

I am hoping to post a record of Frankenputer's progression towards something near the 3.0 mark.


----------



## N2Gaming

Looks good two wheel motion, I'm sure the managers of the thread will put you on the roster soon. Welcome to the club & OCN.


----------



## twowheelmotion

Hey N2Gaming, are you the same guys that play TF2 and were at Lanfest? I'm Steam friends w/ an N2 clan guy named ForceRun.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *twowheelmotion*


Hey N2Gaming, are you the same guys that play TF2 and were at Lanfest? I'm Steam friends w/ an N2 clan guy named ForceRun.


I don't think so, although I do like to play TF2. I don't even remember the last time I played. Oh and my Steam name is infact N2Gaming. I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed when it comes to FPS games but I like them all the same like most PC games once I give them a chance.


----------



## twowheelmotion

Gosh, my poor head is stuffed with new OC knowledge and weird acronyms are oozing out of my nose. I've been reading the newbie OC guides all day can only process so much. So it is time to ask you guys









In a nut shell, I can't push my reference clock past 235MHz. I have been playing TF2 for two hours now with no problem at 234. At 235 I get problems like:

1. Computer reboots before or just after the Windows password screen
2. Reboots while loading games
3. Locks up and gives me "memory cannot be accessed" messages while gaming

Other info:

1. Idle proc temp is about 46 C when clock is at 234
2. When I ran Prime95 temp spiked to 87! So I turned it off real quick.

Things I tried that did not help problem:

1. Raising and lowering CPU Voltage
2. Lowering HTT multiplier from 4 to 3

From what I have read I should expect to be able to push this particular processor to at least 2.4, if not much higher. I suspect that my problem is timing related and not temperature since it is so hinged on the 235 number.

What do you guys think? Can you point me down any particular paths of inquiry to more quickly bypass this hurtle?

Thanks!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *twowheelmotion*


1. Idle proc temp is about 46 C when clock is at 234
2. When I ran Prime95 temp spiked to 87!










That is pretty hot. You can try to get your temps on the cpu down. OEM CPU coolers don't cool all that good on those cpu's

What spd is the ram running at when you try fsb 235?

Have you lowered your HT multi?

Have you tried to loosen up your ram timings or lower your ram divider?

What is the CPU Core Voltage at now?


----------



## Blitz6804

Okay, first off, you are going to likely have problems with your RAM. You are running 4x1024 on a DDR-400 memory divider, which is overclocking the CPU's IMC already before you increased the HTT. At stock (200x10) your divider should be DDR-333 for 4x1024 MB, so as N2Gaming pointed out, try reducing the RAM divider to DDR-333 now. At 235x10 with DDR-333, your RAM will run around DDR-392, which *should* be stable. If your computer is stable with 234x10 DDR-400 as you say, you should be fine (memory and IMC-wise) up to 280x10 DDR-333. I doubt your CPU will go that high though.

As N2Gaming said... watch that CPU temperature. 87Âº C is way to hot for an Athlon64 3200+ Venice. AMD does not recommend exceeding 65Âº C, so consider a cooling upgrade before you try to increase the speed any further.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *twowheelmotion*


From what I have read I should expect to be able to push this particular processor to at least 2.4, if not much higher. I suspect that my problem is timing related and not temperature since it is so hinged on the 235 number.

*What do you guys think? Can you point me down any particular paths of inquiry to more quickly bypass this hurtle? *

Thanks!


 First and foremost, CPU cooling. The stock cooler is obviously not good enough to do any real cooling while overclocking, so don't really push it with the stock cooler.
I think the best bang for the buck at the moment is this Thermaltake Big Typhoon for $19.99. But you'll need to lap it before you use it. But after you lap it it will cool as well as a Xigmatek Dark Knight which is more than double in price.

Then as everyone else has asked, what is your memory divider set to? What are the RAM timings? Voltage?


----------



## Blitz6804

To answer your question BlackOmega, DDR-400, 3-3-3-8-2T-11. (tRFC is not listed by CPU-Z, but should be between 13 and 15; RAM voltage is also not listed by CPU-Z for some strange reason... maybe we should talk to the developer to add that for 1.53?)


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
To answer your question BlackOmega, DDR-400, 3-3-3-8-2T-11. (tRFC is not listed by CPU-Z, but should be between 13 and 15; RAM voltage is also not listed by CPU-Z for some strange reason... maybe we should talk to the developer to add that for 1.53?)

That's not a bad idea.

A little update on my situation, I decided to run some other benchmarks. I used Lost Planet: Extreme Condition because it has a built in "performance test". Well it ran smoothly, well as smooth as it can using 1 gpu with the settings cranked to the max. So I decided that perhaps FC2's game file became corrupted somehow (I'm thinking that's what happened to 3DM06 as well), and reinstalled the game. I just re-ran FC2's benchmark with 1 GPU and it _seems_ to have smoothed out.
Here's a screenshot:


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *twowheelmotion* 
Hey guys, can I play too? Here is a shot of what I was able to do w/ my rig before joining the OCN community. All I did was push the FSB a bit. I am pretty new to this and learning lots already.

I am hoping to post a record of Frankenputer's progression towards something near the 3.0 mark.

Twowheelmotion, welcome to the club. I added you to the roster with the above overclock. Sounds like the rest of the team here has provided you with some good suggestions/question. One thing though I would most certainly consider (as BlackOmega mentioned) is to pick up a new cooler. Those idle and load temperatures are pretty darn high. Have you tried remounting the cooler? Are you using the stock thermal pad or did you apply your own thermal compound and if so how much did you apply?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Well it ran smoothly, well as smooth as it can using 1 gpu with the settings cranked to the max. So I decided that perhaps FC2's game file became corrupted somehow (I'm thinking that's what happened to 3DM06 as well), and reinstalled the game. I just re-ran FC2's benchmark with 1 GPU and it _seems_ to have smoothed out.

BlackOmega, well that is interesting after reinstalling the game. Did you try again in 3DMark06? Did you try out Blitz's suggestion in regards to defraging the drives? What about running some tests on your array?

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

For those of you who own 3DMark06, 3DMark Vantage, or some other Futuremark benchmarking software: you likely already got an email, but they are offering a 25% discount for people who own a product of theirs if you preorder it. I just preordered mine now for $15 (at the 25% discount) but it would be nice to have some people to play with on launch day. It is a Steam direct download. Go to Shattered Horizon's webpage, and you will see a purchase link. Click the one that says "Benchmarkers."


----------



## N2Gaming

blitz are you saying that owners of 06 & vantage can get a 25% discount on there games?

Shoot I have the Vantage key that I would happily trade any one for a 3dmark06 key.

DL BF2 Patch 1.5 atm. I want this install to go flawless this time and just incase it don't I'm saving all my game update patches in one directory so I can easily copy them to prevent the tediouse task of having to figure what games need what patches/updates and where to find the down loads. Oh I should prolly keep copies of my User names and passwords on a notepad in paper form so I don't loose my stats online w/ea games ever again.


----------



## Blitz6804

According to the email, yes, legitimate owners of a Futuremark 3DMark benchmark can type in their product key and get a 25% discount on a pre-order of Shattered Horizon.


----------



## thlnk3r

N2Gaming, check out "Project Reality". It's a pretty good mod foo BF2.


----------



## N2Gaming

thanks blitz & thlnk3r.

I still have to get the game all patched up before I think about any mod packs. It looks as if I'll have to install patch 1.41 before I patch up to 1.5.

EA's sight says 1.5 is just over 2GB in size but the file I'm DL from Filefront is 1.92GB, so I hope I'm getting the right patch. I also saw a seperate hotfix 1.5 patch On fileplanet.

The good news, I did not know was EA is giving us the Euro/American booster Packs for free w/patch 1.5 as of september this year.







Will be nice to finally play them once and for all.


----------



## Hueristic

My node's been down for a day and a half, just got back up.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
So I decided that perhaps FC2's game file became corrupted somehow (I'm thinking that's what happened to 3DM06 as well), and reinstalled the game. I just re-ran FC2's benchmark with 1 GPU and it _seems_ to have smoothed out.

OK BO, I'm confused. You said it ran smooth until you bumped your OC and when you dropped your OC it smoothed out. But now you re-installed the game it runs smooth with the same OC?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, well that is interesting after reinstalling the game. Did you try again in 3DMark06? Did you try out Blitz's suggestion in regards to defraging the drives? What about running some tests on your array?

Good luck


 I uninstalled 3DM06 earlier and re-downloaded it. I haven't de-fragging yet because the files weren't fragmented (I defragged after most of my game installs). 
I did run a bunch of tests on the array last night and couldn't find anything wrong with it. I used HD tune and did all of the benchmarks and error checking and it came back perfect. 
I also ran HD tach and nothing looked out of the ordinary there either. 
Then I ran the S&M HDD test and I let 2 of them run through with no issues either.

I'm thinking what happened was the game file became corrupted with a failed OC as that is one of the benchmarks I run to stability test.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


OK BO, I'm confused. You said it ran smooth until you bumped your OC and when you dropped your OC it smoothed out. But now you re-installed the game it runs smooth with the same OC?


Ok here's the chronological events.
Initially FC2 and its benchmark ran smoothly at stock settings. Then I messed around with some OCing and got it to 3500MHz. Ran the benchmark and noticed it wasn't running smoothly but other than thinking it's a little strange I paid no more mind to it. Then I went as far as 3700MHz and noticed that skipping in 3dm06, ran FC2 bench and noticed it there too. So I turned everything down a little to 3600MHz, 2700NB, 7-7-7-20 timings. I ran 3dm06 the skipping is still there. All of this is using 1 GPU by the way. So I installed my 2nd GPU and ran it again it _seemed_ to smoother with 2 gpu's . I run the FC2 BM and notice it has a similar skipping every second. 
So with both GPU's installed I set everything back to stock and the skipping is still there. I did a bunch of HDD testing as suggested but everything seems OK in that regard.

So then I looked around some of my other games that have built in benchmarks to see if they skip as well. They don't, so I said the hell with it and re-installed FC2. It seems to have smoothed out. So earlier I uninstalled 3DM06 and am going to re-install it later after the kiddies go to bed. 
If it still doesn't work the way I want it to, I might just complete re-install of the OS, and in the process short stroke my drives.

So basically that's what happened.

EDIT: So I re-installed 3Dm06 and all is well, no skipping stuttering or anything.


----------



## BlackOmega

I'VE FIGURED OUT WHAT WAS CAUSING THE SKIPPING!









Background processes.







After I re-installed 3dm06 yesterday and ran it at stock and found no skipping I decided to see if it would do it when OC'd and it did. So I decided to shut down any unnecessary processes including Everest and some others like Java, SpoolSV, etc. and re-ran 3dm06. Lo and behold, no skipping when overclocked.

So then I decided to get it back to 3600MHz and see if it was actually stable. And here's my result. 3600MHz at .04v less than before.







(Although that might change when I start cranking up the NB/IMC).


----------



## Blitz6804

I have had a lot of problems with Everest since switching from my Brisbane to my Deneb. Accordingly, I have stopped using it except for certain, limited times. (Where it used to have an idle usage of 1-2% on my Brisbane, on my Deneb, I was showing idle CPU usage of upwards of 15%.)


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I have had a lot of problems with Everest since switching from my Brisbane to my Deneb. Accordingly, I have stopped using it except for certain, limited times. (Where it used to have an idle usage of 1-2% on my Brisbane, on my Deneb, I was showing idle CPU usage of upwards of 15%.)


 Yeah I had initially noticed with my Opty 180 that Everest would cause crashes when testing overclocks. I'd re-run the test sans Everest, it would usually pass.

But this is very promising for my 720. I'm thinking I should be able to attain an even higher clock. I'm going to run it @ 3600 for the time being to "burn it in" so to speak. Then maybe once she gets used to running at this speed attaining 3800MHz wouldn't be out of the question.

OT: In 2 of my classes I had to take the Meyer Briggs Personality Test and it's supposed to shed a little insight as to who you are and what not. It's pretty interesting. I'm an ENTJ and what it says about my personality type is pretty spot on. 
Now when taking this test, make sure that you use either your workplace mindset or your private mindset. As you'll probably notice your personality type _will_ change depending on your setting (work, social, home).


----------



## MasterDan

Welcome me! Athlon 64bit 3000+ here!







Love my CPU, I just wish the board would support AMD's Cool 'n' quiet technology. This motherboard is way to loud, and I wanna make it abit quieter.

Thank!

PS: Is 64bit really worth it if I am not using 64bit window or programs? And would it be wise to go to 64bit windows?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
OT: In 2 of my classes I had to take the Meyer Briggs Personality Test and it's supposed to shed a little insight as to who you are and what not. It's pretty interesting. I'm an ENTJ and what it says about my personality type is pretty spot on.
Now when taking this test, make sure that you use either your workplace mindset or your private mindset. As you'll probably notice your personality type _will_ change depending on your setting (work, social, home).

I'm an ENFP, though I can say my personality type doesn't change no matter what.


----------



## Blitz6804

MasterDan: If you are running a 64-bit version of Windows, you will gain the ability to use 64-bit programs and more than about 3 GB of RAM. If you have less than 3 GB of RAM, you might as well keep XP Home x86. All we need is a CPU-Z of some version (screenshot or validation link, the latter preferred) and we can add you to the rosters.

BlackOmega: ISTJ


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I have had a lot of problems with Everest since switching from my Brisbane to my Deneb.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Yeah I had initially noticed with my Opty 180 that Everest would cause crashes when testing overclocks.

When monitoring temperatures via Everest a noticeable amount of skipping was apparent during gaming...especially in Team Fortress 2. More than likely BlackOmega this was your problem. Though I can't imagine you experiencing any skipping with a tri-core especially when it comes to background processes.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MasterDan* 
Welcome me! Athlon 64bit 3000+ here!







Love my CPU, I just wish the board would support AMD's Cool 'n' quiet technology. This motherboard is way to loud, and I wanna make it abit quieter.

PS: Is 64bit really worth it if I am not using 64bit window or programs? And would it be wise to go to 64bit windows?

MasterDan, welcome to the club! All I need from you is a CPU-Z validation of your 3000+. This information will be added to the roster next to your name









Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
I'm an ENFP, though I can say my personality type doesn't change no matter what.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
BlackOmega: ISTJ

Oh yeah forgot my description ENTJ.

Blitz, read this reagarding your personality type. It's a little bit more in depth than the other one.

So what do you guys think of the test? Do you think it's accurate?

EDIT:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
When monitoring temperatures via Everest a noticeable amount of skipping was apparent during gaming...especially in Team Fortress 2. More than likely BlackOmega this was your problem. Though I can't imagine you experiencing any skipping with a tri-core especially when it comes to background processes.

That's what I though too, but I think it might be accessing the HDD and updating the information on the fly. Maybe I turned on some sort of auto logging of some sort







I'll have to check my settings.

PS: You should take that personality test, it's pretty interesting.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
PS: You should take that personality test, it's pretty interesting.

BlackOmega, roger I'll post up my results


----------



## N2Gaming

I to scored an ISTJ


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I to scored an ISTJ










 You got the same thing as Blitz







.. Did you you read this?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


So what do you guys think of the test? Do you think it's accurate?


I think it is pretty accurate.

Most everyone I know (as we took this test a year or so back for a class) agree's that my personality type is more or less accurate.


----------



## Blitz6804

It is generally not bad, but there are a few places where it does not match up.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


I think it is pretty accurate.

Most everyone I know (as we took this test a year or so back for a class) agree's that my personality type is more or less accurate.


 Ironically, I have had to take it for 2 of my classes this semester. In my Interpersonal Communication class I actually got a completely different result. My teacher in that class told us to think of the way we are in a specific setting. I know you said you're pretty much the same all the time, most people are not.
In my personal life I'm an ENTJ, in my work I'm a conglomerate of ESTP/ENTP.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


It is generally not bad, but there are a few places where it does not match up.


 Yeah not everything matches 100%, but for me, depending on environment, I'd have to say that those are accurate to about 90%.
I'm sure there's a more in depth test with more questions that would give you a much better insight.


----------



## Hueristic

http://www.personalitypage.com/ENTP.html


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hey gentlemen, just popping in to see how y'all are doing.

I trust all is well.







Been stupidly stupidly busy here at work. When municipal entities downsize, it's pretty ugly. I'm used to wearing three or four hats here; now, I've got maybe six or seven different hats.

Not that I'm complaining. Overwork is far better than unemployment.

Anyway, good to see everyone is just keeping our little corner of the universe just as great as it's always been.







I really hope to carve out some time to join in on the fun; time and energy, though, are getting shorter and more scarce.

On to S939 matters: I've fired up my CFX3200 again. First chip back in was Blitzy's poor Toledo. No joy there, as I'm afraid that the little guy has gone up to silicon heaven. (Broke me heart to PM Blitzy about that, actually.) As soon as I've got time, I'll be asking a good family friend who's also an electrical engineer have a look and see if anything can be done to perform a Lazarus trick on the Toledo.

As soon as I have time, I'll be doing a RAID 0 array on the CFX. It won't be with a dual (old 74GB) Raptor setup as I originally planned, but any two identical drives will fit the bill for what is purely an experiment.







I'm actually keen to see if this board will behave better if I use either Vista or Win7 as the OS. There are persistent reports that the CFX3200's driver package for the ULi SATA controller is goofed in WinXP, but work much better in newer OSes.

We shall see...


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Ironically, I have had to take it for 2 of my classes this semester. In my Interpersonal Communication class I actually got a completely different result. My teacher in that class told us to think of the way we are in a specific setting. I know you said you're pretty much the same all the time, most people are not.
In my personal life I'm an ENTJ, in my work I'm a conglomerate of ESTP/ENTP.


It comes with my personality profile.

And it's not a lie, I've been complimented an insulted on it.

Though, out of the 9 times I've taken the test, I'm either an ENFP or ENTP. It's always one or the other.

As far as Thinking & Feeling goes. I could say that's an even cut as for me it depends on the subject whether I take the matter as subjective or objective.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
http://www.personalitypage.com/ENTP.html

That sounds about right.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Hey gentlemen, just popping in to see how y'all are doing.

I trust all is well.







Been stupidly stupidly busy here at work. When municipal entities downsize, it's pretty ugly. I'm used to wearing three or four hats here; now, I've got maybe six or seven different hats.

Not that I'm complaining. Overwork is far better than unemployment.

Anyway, good to see everyone is just keeping our little corner of the universe just as great as it's always been.







I really hope to carve out some time to join in on the fun; time and energy, though, are getting shorter and more scarce.

On to S939 matters: I've fired up my CFX3200 again. First chip back in was Blitzy's poor Toledo. No joy there, as I'm afraid that the little guy has gone up to silicon heaven. (Broke me heart to PM Blitzy about that, actually.) As soon as I've got time, I'll be asking a good family friend who's also an electrical engineer have a look and see if anything can be done to perform a Lazarus trick on the Toledo.

As soon as I have time, I'll be doing a RAID 0 array on the CFX. It won't be with a dual (old 74GB) Raptor setup as I originally planned, but any two identical drives will fit the bill for what is purely an experiment.







I'm actually keen to see if this board will behave better if I use either Vista or Win7 as the OS. There are persistent reports that the CFX3200's driver package for the ULi SATA controller is goofed in WinXP, but work much better in newer OSes.

We shall see...









Ooh definitely keep me posted on your results. I am very curious to see if the newer OS's are a little bit more friendly to the old CFX3200DR. Have you had the board running at all?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
It comes with my personality profile.

And it's not a lie, I've been complimented an insulted on it.

Though, out of the 9 times I've taken the test, I'm either an ENFP or ENTP. It's always one or the other.

As far as Thinking & Feeling goes. I could say that's an even cut as for me it depends on the subject whether I take the matter as subjective or objective.


Yeah the in class ones are better as you can actually have a split. That's how I found out that I had the ESTP/ENTP split.
That test is good resource to use when having either family conflicts or other interpersonal types of conflicts. A lot of companies have started using those to determine where they should place employee's so they'll get along the best and be most productive.


----------



## Blitz6804

BlackOmega: I am willing to bet that I will not change no matter how many times I might take it. My results were pretty extreme, all being either greater than 80% or less than 20%.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
BlackOmega: I am willing to bet that I will not change no matter how many times I might take it. My results were pretty extreme, all being either greater than 80% or less than 20%.

It seems certain personality types don't differentiate that much from private life to work.
I think the reason mine does actually is because when I would be the ENTJ at work I would always get fired because the bosses would think that I was trying to undermine them or just flat out call them stupid. Which was not the case, I just wanted to make things work/run better smoother which I totally my personality. So then I switched more to a "just get the job done" and "strictly the facts" type. Less analytical and more worker type.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
You got the same thing as Blitz







.. Did you you read this?

|That page takes to long to load so I don't trust it.









Looks like fun Joe. Yeah more work is better then sitting in a soup kitchen line w/a dirty bowl waiting for dinner.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


|That page takes to long to load so I don't trust it.









Looks like fun Joe. Yeah more work is better then sitting in a soup kitchen line w/a dirty bowl waiting for dinner.


 READ IT MAN!!!! All the personality types take a while to load up.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I'm actually keen to see if this board will behave better if I use either Vista or Win7 as the OS. There are persistent reports that the CFX3200's driver package for the ULi SATA controller is goofed in WinXP, but work much better in newer OSes.


Joe, good call. Do you think the Windows 7 installer will detect the array right away? Man I really want to install Windows 7 on my rig but I'm being patient and waiting to build my quad-core rig first


----------



## Blitz6804

thlnk3r: I know the Windows Vista installer had no problem finding the RAID on my Gigabyte GA-K8NSC-939, so I would assume Windows 7 should handle that no problem. Why are you waiting on Windows 7 thlnk3r? You have an OEM license and not a retail one?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Why are you waiting on Windows 7 thlnk3r? You have an OEM license and not a retail one?


Blitz6804, oh I'd just prefer to install Windows 7 after building my new rig. Something else to look forward to I guess. In regards to the license I actually will be receiving mine via MSDN


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


READ IT MAN!!!! All the personality types take a while to load up.


It's pretty darn close to who I am. I have been an accountant, applied to be a city cop in 3 different cities and have managed a crew of 10+ employees in a couple of different trades. I believe me to be in catastrophe mode atm and for a while now. I have been taken advantage of in the work place several times to a point where my body physically broke down. I don't think I tend to care as much about other individuals as much as the read says or maybe I have a false sense of understanding what it was telling me. Kind of like how I tried to understand all the questions and answered w/what I believed to be the right answers. Now I'm interesed to know if I get the same result as last time. Goes off into introvertness to retake test.


----------



## Tator Tot

I want to know Thlnk3rs personality type. I want to know if we're compatible for marriage


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


I want to know Thlnk3rs personality type. I want to know if we're compatible for marrige


----------



## Blitz6804

Sorry Tator, he's taken.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


I want to know Thlnk3rs personality type. I want to know if we're compatible for marrige


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
I want to know Thlnk3rs personality type. I want to know if we're compatible for marrige

LOLLLL


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Sorry Tator, he's taken.



































































But I can share.


----------



## Blitz6804

I guess that is ultimately up to Ms. 'k3r.

Oh, as to why a chain of smilies breaks sometimes (as above):

OCN has character limit on the length of a word. Put a space here or there, and the smilie chain will not break.


----------



## Tator Tot

I normally space the smiles myself as I type them out.

But that time I just pulled up the box and hit them all.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Dunno if this link works here, but I rated as INTJ.

I've taken these types of tests before, and my results have been very consistent.

As far as compatibility with thlnk3r is concerned, there's no question: I am the only one suitable anyway. No ands, ifs or buts.


----------



## Blitz6804

To be a fly on the wall in that convo...

Thlnk3r: "Destro, we can't talk about this right now."
Joe: "We WILL talk about this Cobra Commander. I love you, and you love me. Lets move to Massachusetts."
Thlnk3r: "... it was a one night stand!"

and so on.


----------



## N2Gaming

Ha LOL blitzy shows his humorouse side...







+

Edit: I just finished my retest and still score an ISTJ but w/different numbers this time. 44 12 75 11


----------



## thlnk3r

Oh boy my wife isn't going to like whats going on in here....


----------



## Blitz6804

It is a long-running joke N2. I would post here, but there might be some ToS/Language issues with the film (to say nothing of copyright concerns), so I cannot.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

"Clay Aiken?!?!?"

(I think only Blitzy and thln3krb377 will get the reference to that one.














)

Ahem. Enough OT for me. LOL

@thlnk3r and others: I don't know if the Win7 RC will recognize the RAID array sans problems on the CFX3200. I tried playing with the RC with Raivo, before reinstalling Vista on it (the current install), but the RC was looking for the RAID drivers for it. I've read reports that the RC will do that, but not an OEM/retail version of Win7.

I've got one copy of Win7, but it will be used for my AM3 rig. I suppose I could use the key for experimental purposes on the CFX3200...







It's a retail key, so I could always deactivate it on the CFX when I'm finally in position to step into the world of AM3. If I had my choice, though, I'd like to play with the RC key first.


----------



## twowheelmotion

Hey everyone. Thanks to N2Gaming, blitz6804, BlackOmega, and thlnk3r for responding. It seems like cooling was job #1, so I lapped both the CPU and stock HS and reinstalled using Lord XEB's guide with some Arctic Silver. After doing this my CPU idle temp dropped 10C to 36C! It's hard to say how much was due to lapping versus better installation.

When I run Prim95 after about 10 minutes it approaches 65C and I shut it off. I am going to try and scrounge an after market cooler off my gamer buddies. Frankenputer is all about the freeness.

As to the other questions, at FSB of 235:

-CPU Core Voltage is 1.40V
-HT Multi is 4
-and as for RAM speed, DRAM frequency is 196.1 MHz (is DRAM Frequency what you are asking about N2Gaming?)

I have not adjusted any of the RAM settings yet. I don't know the memory stuff at all, like what a CPU' IMC is for ex. I will research OCN about ram before asking too many questions. Are there any particular tutorials you folks recommend?

Also, on a side note, am I guilty of thread jacking here? Not sure if should have started a new thread to talk about me me me.

Thanks all.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *twowheelmotion*


When I run Prim95 after about 10 minutes it approaches 65C and I shut it off. I am going to try and scrounge an after market cooler off my gamer buddies. Frankenputer is all about the freeness.

As to the other questions, at FSB of 235:

-CPU Core Voltage is 1.40V
-HT Multi is 4
-and as for RAM speed, DRAM frequency is 196.1 MHz (is DRAM Frequency what you are asking about N2Gaming?)

I have not adjusted any of the RAM settings yet. I don't know the memory stuff at all, like what a CPU' IMC is for ex. I will research OCN about ram before asking too many questions. Are there any particular tutorials you folks recommend?


Twowheelmotion, don't worry about thread jacking. By all means please post your Socket 939 issues in here if you can. Good work on the lap. How far did you go in terms of "grit"? The entire process takes a while but the end results are very rewarding (as you have noticed). Though I'd have to admit 65C isn't all that bad for the stock cooler. What are you room ambient temperatures? Does the machine have plenty of air ventilation? It's not in a desk cabinet is it?

In regards to guides, have a look at these two. The first one follows AM2 overclocking but it's still very relative to Socket 939 as well. The second guide is a older S754/S939 guide. They are both extremely helpful. Just remember for S939 always keep the Hypertransport (HT Link speed) at or below 1000Mhz:

http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...ocket-am2.html
http://icrontic.com/articles/overclo...54939_platform

Hope that helps


----------



## redhat_ownage

got my venice 3000 to 2.7GHz first try right after i saw this thread hehe
pretty sure thats the fastest 3000 in the list?
(not my sig rig just some piece of junk with a shoddy board)
cant go any higher and i dont know why
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=807732


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Twowheelmotion, don't worry about thread jacking. By all means please post your Socket 939 issues in here if you can.



No kidding, if that were an issue you guys would have definetly kicked me out last week. LOL. BTW, I took some more of your guys advice and went with a new Cavier black for my OS drive, sorry Tator had to pass on the Samsung. Hopefully this was the right move. I did spend a considerable amount of time researching though. I'll post my results when I get the drive running, should be a considerable performance gain over my 2mb cache seagate. Plus the OS will be Win7 64bit, so the boot times, transfer times, etc. might prove to be valuable data.


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


I'm an ENFP, though I can say my personality type doesn't change no matter what.


I think I have done this before but...INTJ, Mastermind. Seriously, as if my ego isn't big enough already.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage*


got my venice 3000 to 2.7GHz first try right after i saw this thread hehe
pretty sure thats the fastest 3000 in the list?
(not my sig rig just some piece of junk with a shoddy board)
cant go any higher and i dont know why
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=807732


Redhat_ownage, awesome overclock









All of my 3000+ processors have been duds so great job! I added you to the roster with a link to your validation.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


I'll post my results when I get the drive running, should be a considerable performance gain over my 2mb cache seagate. Plus the OS will be Win7 64bit, so the boot times, transfer times, etc. might prove to be valuable data.


Eternalenergy311, oh you'll definitely SEE a difference. Going from a 80GB 2MB IDE WD to a 320GB AAJS SATAII WD I saw a huge difference. I have a Raptor just waiting to be installed in my new rig. Can't wait (thx Joe







)

Good luck

EDIT: Forgot to mention we hit 20k in posts!


----------



## Tator Tot

*@ Blitz*, can you drop some insight in on this thread.

It deals with the AMD vs Intel Anti-trust case. 
It always bugs me that info on such things are never presented from a legal standpoint, so while one might morally agree with one side, morals have no effect on what the law says.


----------



## BlackOmega

ARG!!!!! I can't my RAM to stabilize @ 1500!









It passes memtest (9 full passes ~ 5hours), yet when I Prime it, it fails almost consistently @ the 1 hour mark. I've tried upping then NB-CPU voltage and that actually makes it worse. It fails prime in a matter of 10 minutes at the same settings.

Do you guys think that it could help to lower the NB-CPU voltage and raise the RAM voltage?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*










It passes memtest (9 full passes ~ 5hours), yet when I Prime it, it fails almost consistently @ the 1 hour mark. I've tried upping then NB-CPU voltage and that actually makes it worse. It fails prime in a matter of 10 minutes at the same settings.

Do you guys think that it could help to lower the NB-CPU voltage and raise the RAM voltage?


BlackOmega, the cpu-nb voltage controls the voltage for the NB Frequency (ie. IMC) so I'm not sure if that directly relates to your physical memory. If you're raising the NB Freq then sure raise the cpu-nb, if not then I wouldn't touch it. How much memory voltage have you tried?

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, the cpu-nb voltage controls the voltage for the NB Frequency (ie. IMC) so I'm not sure if that directly relates to your physical memory. If you're raising the NB Freq then sure raise the cpu-nb, if not then I wouldn't touch it. How much memory voltage have you tried?

Good luck


 My current configuration : 
CPU: 3600MHz
CPU Mult: 16x
CPU Voltage: 1.47v
HTT:225
NB-CPU:2250 MHz
NB Mult:10x
RAM: 750MHz
RAM Timing: 7-7-6-20-27-1T
RAM Voltage: Rated 1.9v; currently testing @ 2.0v
HT Link:2025Mhz
HT Link Mut:9x
 I've tried raising both the NB and the NB-CPU voltages. Raising _just_ NB does absolutely nothing. Raising the NB-CPU voltage made it worse. Prime would crash very quickly, where as with the lower voltage it would take considerably longer.

I'm starting to come to the conclusion that to run your RAM at a higher frequency you actually need to lower the voltage on the NB-CPU and raise it on the sticks themselves. That way the IMC stays cooler and can handle the higher frequencies. I think applies to timings as well.

The weird thing is that when I ran memtest at this speed (750Mhz) I ran it with some fairly tight timings 6-6-6-18-24-1T and it passes that no problem, but when I prime it, it fails.







I'll have to do some more contemplating about this.


----------



## N2Gaming

Omega, Have you looked at your OS swop file to make sure it's working correctly. I have been brushing up on reasons why games can stutter and memory swop file is associated the occurance of stuttering at times. You mentions shutting down your background tasks and processes. I just found this tool to help shut down all unwated background tasks/processes quickly and easily. It's called SmartClose . Maybe it would be worth while for you to look into it.







Here is a link I am reading atm that talks about swop files and shutting down your unwanted processes before you start a game.

Thnk3r, I am having a field trip trying to get BF2 all patched up and running correctly w/ PR 087. I have learned a lot today from reading the stickies at the PR forum. Thanks for the suggestion for Project Reality.









Edit: regarding swop file. I was thinking I could use a second HDD like one of my WD 36GB Raptors as a swop file drive.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Omega, Have you looked at your OS swop file to make sure it's working correctly. I have been brushing up on reasons why games can stutter and memory swop file is associated the occurance of stuttering at times. You mentions shutting down your background tasks and processes. I just found this tool to help shut down all unwated background tasks/processes quickly and easily. It's called SmartClose . Maybe it would be worth while for you to look into it.







Here is a link I am reading atm that talks about swop files and shutting down your unwanted processes before you start a game.

Thnk3r, I am having a field trip trying to get BF2 all patched up and running correctly w/ PR 087. I have learned a lot today from reading the stickies at the PR forum. Thanks for the suggestion for Project Reality.










 I haven't checked the memory swap file, good suggestion though. 
As for my stuttering, I've narrowed it down to Everest. When Everest is running I'll all sorts of lag, stuttering even artifacting. When it's not, no issues.

I'll check out that smartclose program.









As of right now, with my current setting (RAM @ 2.0v), it's been running totally stable for 1.5 hours now.

As for BF2, I'll have to check out that project reality mod. Although, I've been playing lots of Far Cry 2 and COD WAW lately.

When you want to do some BF2 PM me, we'll get a teamspeak or ventrillo server going, although BF2 does have voice over IP.


----------



## N2Gaming

Sounds good BO. You do know about BF2 patch 1.50 right? I'll pm you after I get it all set up properly and know what I'm doing again. Yeah the game has voip but not open mic voip and I'm wondering if xfire/steam/ventrilo will cause lag/stuttering issues w/BF2? I guess there would only be one way to find out.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Sounds good BO. You do know about BF2 patch 1.50 right? I'll pm you after I get it all set up properly and know what I'm doing again. Yeah the game has voip but not open mic voip and I'm wondering if xfire/steam/ventrilo will cause lag/stuttering issues w/BF2? I guess there would only be one way to find out.










 I believe I already have 1.5 installed, I'll have to verify.
I still a bit perturbed that BF2142's expansion pack wont work for me. It keeps saying that I have modified content, which I don't.
And the idea behind BF2 is pretty straight forward, go to capture point sit by flag until your team flag goes up, on to the next one. That's the premise of all the battlefield series.

I don't think there will be an issue with using any of the other voice over IP programs. I've used TeamSpeak before several times, even on my 939 rigs there wasn't an issue. I figure for our PHII's it should pose no problems. Although I do have to figure out whats going on with my mic.


----------



## Blitz6804

Tator Tot: I have no comment.


----------



## BlackOmega

BSOD'd after 2hours of prime. :swearing:

Going to try 2.05v now.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I'm starting to come to the conclusion that to run your RAM at a higher frequency you actually need to lower the voltage on the NB-CPU and raise it on the sticks themselves. That way the IMC stays cooler and can handle the higher frequencies. I think applies to timings as well.

BlackOmega, hmmm that is interesting. Hopefully you don't decide to raise your NB Freq because that will definitely require a cpu-nb bump.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Thnk3r, I am having a field trip trying to get BF2 all patched up and running correctly w/ PR 087. I have learned a lot today from reading the stickies at the PR forum. Thanks for the suggestion for Project Reality.









N2Gaming, it's a pretty good mod. I'm waiting for the new v0.9 to release









Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, hmmm that is interesting. Hopefully you don't decide to raise your NB Freq because that will definitely require a cpu-nb bump.


 I'm still trying to get a hold of the RAM thing on the AM3's. There's definitely a much larger benefit from overclocking it than on our 939's. But there's more to the equation now that needs consideration. 
If you get your ram frequency and more importantly timings set just right, the computer just "feels" faster at keyboard level. Which is not something I noticed as much with 939's.
Even at stock speed on this 720, the tighter I set the timings the snappier it got. It would boot ridiculously fast and it seemed as though everything would load super fast too. Hell in 3dm06 there was hardly any load time to the tests







.


----------



## thlnk3r

BlackOmega, from what I hear overclocking the NB Freq also helps considerably (coupled with tighter sub-timings)


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, from what I hear overclocking the NB Freq also helps considerably (coupled with tighter sub-timings)










 It does, I'm trying to see what it takes to get the RAM stable at this speed (DDR3 1500) with decent timings (7-7-6-20) while @ 2250 NB. Then I'll mess around with it some more. It'll just give me an idea as to what it'll take. The crappiest thing is the lack of dividers, but I made a thread about that on MSI forums. Hopefully MSI will see it and say "Hey, lets add some more dividers"


----------



## Tator Tot

NB is limited to whole number dividers by AMD


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


NB is limited to whole number dividers by AMD


 I meant RAM dividers. My board only has 3 (not including the auto setting). It really should have more than 3 if it's going to claim that it's a _good_ overclocking board. Hell my 939 DFI's have what like 10? (I'm not positive on that figure I just pulled it out of thin air







) And I don't even have as many MHz to cover with DDR as I do with DDR3.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


I'm an ENFP, though I can say my personality type doesn't change no matter what.


Tator, sorry we're definitely not a match









ESFJ


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Yo guys who have played with Black Editions: Why bother with playing with the RAM and the reference clocks so much if you can just simply lock the RAM speed down at stock (you can probably get performance gains through tightening the timings) and crank up the CPU divider?

That was ostensibly part of the "appeal" of the FX-series and Black Edition CPUs: The fact that you can get higher CPU speeds without messing with the other clocks so much. (Sometimes I think that fully-unlocked CPU multipliers are a bit of a cheat compared to upward-locked CPU multipliers; they seem far too easy to OC, relying just on increased VCore to maintain stability.)

Educate me on fully-unlocked CPU OCing, please, specifically in regards to the influence on RAM performance and stability.


----------



## thlnk3r

Joe, BO is running memory that is faster then what the AM3 IMC can do in terms of divider (max is ddr3-1333) so I think he's trying to play with the HT Clock speed to get it to run at it's advertised speed. I'm pretty sure this is the case :thinking


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, BO is running memory that is faster then what the AM3 IMC can do in terms of divider (max is ddr3-1333) so I think he's trying to play with the HT Clock speed to get it to run at it's advertised speed. I'm pretty sure this is the case :thinking

RAM OCing for its own sake (testing), or part of a total system OC?

I guess you guys can tell I'm getting a little antsy about "starting anew."









Heh, I may as well offer an apology for not having contributed much (if anything) lately.







But I'm so glad to see everyone here keeping our ship sailing merrily along.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Yo guys who have played with Black Editions: Why bother with playing with the RAM and the reference clocks so much if you can just simply lock the RAM speed down at stock (you can probably get performance gains through tightening the timings) and crank up the CPU divider?

Educate me on fully-unlocked CPU OCing, please, specifically in regards to the influence on RAM performance and stability.









True you can just up the multiplier and be done with it. However, what I have noticed from playing around with the 720 is if I up the HTT and use a lower multiplier I can attain the same clock speeds at a lower vcore. For instance, if I use my preferred 225 HTT and a 16x multi the CPU only needs 1.46v (1.47 BIOS setting) to be stable. Now if I leave the HTT @ 200 and crank the multiplier to 18x, all of the sudden the CPU needs 1.52v (1.53 BIOS) to be stable. And obviously that translates in to lower operating temps as well. 49C with 18x and 43C @ 16x.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, BO is running memory that is faster then what the AM3 IMC can do in terms of divider (max is ddr3-1333) so I think he's trying to play with the HT Clock speed to get it to run at it's advertised speed. I'm pretty sure this is the case :thinking

thlnk3r, my dilemma at the moment is that because there are so few dividers I'm stuck with running the RAM at eaither 1200 or 1500. So I'm trying to stabilize it at 1500. If there were a few more dividers I would actually prefer to run the RAM @ 1333 because I can achieve considerably lower timings than I can @ 1500.

Joe, I'll say a little bit more about the RAM later gotta give the kids baths now.









EDIT: Joe I'm for whole system stability at the moment. I checked the RAM last night and @ 1500 it passed 9 full runs of memtest @ 6-6-6-18-24-1T timings. But that's not stable when stressing the whole system, so I had to loosen the timings to 7-7-6-20-27-1T.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator, sorry we're definitely not a match









ESFJ


I'm a tad Jealous, though, I do feel like a Rarity now according to their profile of the ENFP

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I meant RAM dividers. My board only has 3 (not including the auto setting). It really should have more than 3 if it's going to claim that it's a _good_ overclocking board. Hell my 939 DFI's have what like 10? (I'm not positive on that figure I just pulled it out of thin air







) And I don't even have as many MHz to cover with DDR as I do with DDR3.


Again, I think that's an actual chip limitation with the newer IMC's. I could be wrong, But I haven't seen any board that supports more than DDR3 800, DDR3 1066, DDR3 1333, DDR3 1600mhz

I think the Asus M4A79T-Deluxe has an 1800mhz setting...possibly. I could be wrong though.

I haven't had a chance to re-visit most of the boards (A thing I hate about reviewing) as new BIOS come out and really make some boards so much nicer. And could break a stalemate of "which to buy"

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Yo guys who have played with Black Editions: Why bother with playing with the RAM and the reference clocks so much if you can just simply lock the RAM speed down at stock (you can probably get performance gains through tightening the timings) and crank up the CPU divider?


*Overclock.net* _The Pursuit of Performance. _

That's why!









But in reality, Black Editions have unlocked CPU & CPU-NB (IMC) Multi's, so overclocking those are pretty easy. But on the AM3 platform, you are locked to a guaranteed stable of 1333mhz, so in order to draw the most out of your system, that HT clock is necessary. As it can control the world.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


I'm a tad Jealous, though, I do feel like a Rarity now according to their profile of the ENFP


 My personality type is pretty rare as well, less than 2% of people are ENTJ's.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Again, I think that's an actual chip limitation with the newer IMC's. I could be wrong, But I haven't seen any board that supports more than DDR3 800, DDR3 1066, DDR3 1333, DDR3 1600mhz

I think the Asus M4A79T-Deluxe has an 1800mhz setting...possibly. I could be wrong though.

I haven't had a chance to re-visit most of the boards (A thing I hate about reviewing) as new BIOS come out and really make some boards so much nicer. And could break a stalemate of "which to buy"


 Supposedly the MSI GD70 supports up to 2133. I have yet to see anything remotely close to that though.
At this point I'm very inclined to say that it is definitely a chip limitation. It's all in finding a good chip that can handle the OC.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


My personality type is pretty rare as well, less than 2% of people are ENTJ's.


Oh gawd....Bill Gates...Napoleon...RUN 939'S! Run for your lives! And have Thlnk3r protect us. I'll try to talk him down!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Supposedly the MSI GD70 supports up to 2133. I have yet to see anything remotely close to that though.
At this point I'm very inclined to say that it is definitely a chip limitation. It's all in finding a good chip that can handle the OC.


I've seen it. Only on 965BE's though. The new C3's can probably hit that high though. They seem much more adept as far as PhII's are concerned.

Most of the time, it takes 1.45v CPU-NB, stock CPU clock, and some really good RAM.

Chew* & Slappa have done it with LN2, Not seen a 24/7 on it though.


----------



## MasterDan

Wow. I realized how outdated I am, I don't have the 939. Just the 754. Oh well.


----------



## Blitz6804

Joe: As has been said several times: the allure of the BE chips is that in a pinch, you can get a "free" 2-400 MHz bump simply by adjusting the multiplier. In the long run however, it is better to lower the multiplier (if necessary) and crank up the HTT for greater performance with all numbers equal. Especially in K10.5s, where the chips often require less voltage for the same speed with a lower multiplier.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Oh gawd....*Bill Gates*...*Napoleon*...RUN 939'S! Run for your lives! And have Thlnk3r protect us. I'll try to talk him down!












Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


I've seen it. Only on 965BE's though. The new C3's can probably hit that high though. They seem much more adept as far as PhII's are concerned.

Most of the time, it takes 1.45v CPU-NB, stock CPU clock, and some really good RAM.

Chew* & Slappa have done it with LN2, Not seen a 24/7 on it though.


I'm hoping the new C3 stepping lives up to it's hype. It's what I've been waiting for. That and I figured I'd get my AM3 feet wet with a 720.









And an update, it seems as though my system is only 3:14:00 stable.









Tator what do you think is more beneficial a higher RAM frequency or higher NB frequency?/


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Tator what do you think is more beneficial a higher RAM frequency or higher NB frequency?/


It usually a combo effort for best results.

As both Frequency's correlate to RAM bandwidth. Which really only comes down to what you can run higher.

If you can run 2300mhz NB with 1600mhz RAM that's probably your best bet.

Though, my guess would be 2700mhz NB with 1333 tight timings would run faster. (IE teh Cas 6-5-5-5 you had earlier) As the frequency gain is higher.

As for sure though, I have no idea which has a larger impact. Judging by how scalable NB Frequency is...I would say that it might be the higher factor in the equation.

But I've never seen Cross Testing of it. 
IE: 2700mhz NB w/ 1333mhz (Cas 6-6-6-18-1T) vs 2300mhz NB w/ 1600mhz Cas 7-7-7-24-1T


----------



## shortfuse

im not really up to date with pc tech. however with my current rig with 2xgts250 would i bottleneck?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shortfuse*


im not really up to date with pc tech. however with my current rig with 2xgts250 would i bottleneck?


Not if you ran them on a DFI Lanparty...







j/k

You will likely have a small loss but I would be more concerned w/your cpu being the bottleneck for those cards if you plan to use them in your system for modern up to date games w/all the eye candy cranked up and higher resolutions. Please correct me if I'm wrong or way off base.


----------



## shortfuse

n2gaming u actually corrected my question. i was concerned about bottle necking my my cpu with the newer gpu. sorry mate ive tried dfi since nforce3 just no luck with them...


----------



## N2Gaming

NP I just like teasing you about DFI. Your avatar is just asking for some teasing.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shortfuse*


im not really up to date with pc tech. however with my current rig with 2xgts250 would i bottleneck?


 Most definitely. However with a dual core that could clock to 2.9/3.0 would still be very doable and it wouldn't bottleneck _as_ bad. Even then it'll bottleneck some. But with 2 GPU's, some nice RAM that clocked well and a 3.0 dual core I bet youd score ~14k in 3dmark06.


----------



## Blitz6804

shortfuse: Before you go dual GTS 250 (which are actually 9800 GTX+ or 8800 GTS G92 512 MB slightly overclocked) I would suggest getting a dual-core CPU to go with it. Most games that can take advantage of that graphics hardware are also multithreaded, so why not pick up the gain if you can? If you do not have the money for both dual core and dual cards, then I would say get one GTS 250 (or even better, a GTX 260 for about $15 more) and a dual core CPU.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


shortfuse: Before you go dual GTS 250 (which are actually 9800 GTX+ or 8800 GTS G92 512 MB slightly overclocked) I would suggest getting a dual-core CPU to go with it. Most games that can take advantage of that graphics hardware are also multithreaded, so why not pick up the gain if you can? If you do not have the money for both dual core and dual cards, then I would say get one GTS 250 (or even better, a GTX 260 for about $15 more) and a dual core CPU.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


shortfuse: Before you go dual GTS 250 (which are actually 9800 GTX+ or 8800 GTS G92 512 MB slightly overclocked) I would suggest getting a dual-core CPU to go with it. Most games that can take advantage of that graphics hardware are also multithreaded, so why not pick up the gain if you can? If you do not have the money for both dual core and dual cards, then I would say get one GTS 250 (or even better, a GTX 260 for about $15 more) and a dual core CPU.












Wise man is wise.

Another possible consideration, 2 x GTS250's = $125 for the EVGA Lifetime ones.

So with $250 sitting around, you could possibly make the jump to AM2+ or AM3 for not that much.

You'd have to put off a GPU for a bit, or get a lower end GPU, but it would serve you better in the long run.

Or you could get this GPU combo

EDIT: Newegg also has a nice budget AM3 Combo


----------



## shortfuse

thanks for all of ur advise fellows, but im sticking with my skt939 however an opteron 170 is on the works im just waiting for a friend of mine to stop over and hand me his old 170. i kindda got tired of upgrading pc parts for every 6months something new came up. its so hard to keep up with technology. i trust and believe in my skt939. reason i chose the gts250 is I have a friend that works for microcenter he can get me a good deal on zoltac gts250. lets just say its gonna be under 200 hehehe. with my daily use this should be good enough for what i need. AM2/AM3 are not options for me right now i dont utilize or use heavy encoding so i really have no purpose for triple and quad cores. im an overclocker and pratical not to be confused with cheap skate lol


----------



## Blitz6804

With an Opteron 170, 2x GTS 250 is not unreasonable. If it would be any more than $175 for both, I would suggest investing that $175 into a powerful single-core option. (5850 for $100 more, GTX 260b, et cetera.)


----------



## Tator Tot

I'm with Blitz, invest your money better into a stronger single GPU solution.


----------



## shortfuse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


With an Opteron 170, 2x GTS 250 is not unreasonable. If it would be any more than $175 for both, I would suggest investing that $175 into a powerful single-core option. (5850 for $100 more, GTX 260b, et cetera.)


its a backdoor special so yeah it would be around 175 for both and sum lol... (1tb wd and 2 gts250).... hehehe dont get me wrong tho im planning to upgrade soon its just that i really havent had time too. the last project i have still and still on the works for the past 3yrs now is my tech station for my rig...


----------



## Blitz6804

My theory is fewer GPUs means a lower CPU overhead. Furthermore, a single, powerful GPU tends to have a higher minimum FPS than a pair of weaker GPUs, even if the average FPS is slightly lower. (As Pez has proven with his experiments of an HD 4870 versus 2 9800 GTs.)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


True you can just up the multiplier and be done with it. However, what I have noticed from playing around with the 720 is if I up the HTT and use a lower multiplier I can attain the same clock speeds at a lower vcore. For instance, if I use my preferred 225 HTT and a 16x multi the CPU only needs 1.46v (1.47 BIOS setting) to be stable. Now if I leave the HTT @ 200 and crank the multiplier to 18x, all of the sudden the CPU needs 1.52v (1.53 BIOS) to be stable. And obviously that translates in to lower operating temps as well. 49C with 18x and 43C @ 16x.


BlackOmega, that is very interesting. Good testing so far









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


I'm a tad Jealous, though, I do feel like a Rarity now according to their profile of the ENFP


Tator, yeah but you are a champion!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MasterDan*


Wow. I realized how outdated I am, I don't have the 939. Just the 754. Oh well.


MasterDan, no worries. If you need help with your rig in terms of troubleshooting/overclocking then just let us know.

Good luck guys

EDIT: 
Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


My theory is fewer GPUs means a lower CPU overhead.


...coming from someone that has 2x 4870x2's


----------



## Blitz6804

thlnk3r: If I had the money, I would swing to 2x HD 5870 in a heart beat.* I am hoping the HD 5970 (formerly known as an HD 5870x2) will be cheaper and in my grasp when it launches. My graphics cards currently chew up a lot of my CPU in usage.

*Also better [email protected] performance. Only three of my four GPUs will fold, and it requires me to disable CrossfireX to do it. An HD 5970 can do about the same PPD as four HD 4870s, but not necessitate disabling CrossfireX.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


My graphics cards currently chew up a lot of my CPU in usage.


Blitz, sell one of your cards. Use that money and purchase (2-3) Velociraptors and a Perc 6 card. Throw them in Raid 0 and you'll be in heaven


----------



## Blitz6804

As I said, I am hoping to go HD 5970. Once I get a firm estimate of its price, I am going to try to sell my GPUs to cover it. If I can find someone now to buy, I would sell one now, sell the other on launch day. The problem is: how to get people to buy HD 4870x2s when they could get equivalent performance from an HD 5870 for $380; well, if they can find a place in stock.


----------



## Fa11ou7

Man I wish I would have found this forum a few days ago. I have an old 3200+ s939 system that i was gonna retire for a new i5 system, but after some research found that my mobo will let me upgrade to a dual core. Then I was able to find an opteron 165 for $36 on ebay, so i decided to save a few hundred and try and breath some life into my old system. I might as well wait another year or so and see what the price will be on the i5's.

Anyway I just bought a radeon HD 4670 for $56 on newegg or I would have bought one of your 4870's. My mobo doesn't have two pcie slots =( or I would try both. Realistically I don't want to put too much money into this old system, I just want to keep it usable for a few more years. When I get my new build it will become my wifes computer, on a very rare occasion she plays WoW with me.


----------



## Kryton

In a 939 related subject, I finished setting up one of my A8N32's in the case and prepping it for WC'ing. I'm hoping the numbers will be close to what I did with the DFI. I've never had these on H2O cooling but thinking it will also put out some good numbers. Will let you guys see how well it does once it's up and running with the H2O.


----------



## Blitz6804

First off, welcome to OCN Fa11ou7. Second off, we will be here to help you in anyway you might need with either your 3200+ or your incoming Opteron *165. Remember, the only stupid question is the one left unasked.

Lastly, I have two HD 4870x2s. Each one consumes one PCIe slot. Some motherboards can take four HD 4870s, but mine is not one of them.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fa11ou7*


Anyway I just bought a radeon HD 4670 for $56 on newegg or I would have bought one of your 4870's. My mobo doesn't have two pcie slots =( or I would try both.


I don't think the two would work together. Take a look at this chart.
http://ati.amd.com/technology/crossfire/charts.html

And anyway, I think that when you crossfire a faster card with a slower one, it acts as if you had crossfired two of the slower ones, which could result in lower framerates than just running the faster one on it's own. I'm not 100% sure though.

Edit: Hmm, oh wait. Did you mean crossfiring two 4870s?


----------



## Fa11ou7

Ya I was meaning that if I had not bought the 4670 and had two pcie slots I could have bought both of his cards.

I was pretty excited to find this forum because I have never overclocked before and I would like to get my opty 165 up to 2.3 or so. That should help keep my system functional for a while longer. The single core 3200+ just isn't cutting the cake anymore, its kind of frustrating when having 5 tabs in explorer and MS word open bogs the system down. Thats not even mentioning how poor the 7800gt does with games nowadays.


----------



## Blitz6804

HothBase: As you said, you can only combine HD 48xx with HD 48xx. If you mix an HD 4870 with an HD 4850, both will run at HD 4850 speeds. Mix an HD 4850x2 with an HD 4870, all three will run at HD 4850 speeds. Mix an HD 4670 and an HD 4770, and crossfire is not possible, although you can run both cards independently, such as needing to drive four monitors.

Fa11ou7: Right now, only one of my cards is for sale anyway. An HD 4870x2 is a single card that has two HD 4870s on it, so having two HD 4870x2s gives me the equivalent of four HD 4870s in theory; not in practice.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey Fa11ou7, When was the last time you defrag'd your HDD? I have similar system w/ a 3500+ xp x64 2g ram and I can have a ton of IE windows open w/word and not have any bogging of the system. How may tasks do you have running in the task manager when this bogging down takes place?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


It usually a combo effort for best results.

As both Frequency's correlate to RAM bandwidth. Which really only comes down to what you can run higher.

If you can run 2300mhz NB with 1600mhz RAM that's probably your best bet.

Though, my guess would be 2700mhz NB with 1333 tight timings would run faster. (IE teh Cas 6-5-5-5 you had earlier) As the frequency gain is higher.

As for sure though, I have no idea which has a larger impact. Judging by how scalable NB Frequency is...I would say that it might be the higher factor in the equation.

But I've never seen Cross Testing of it. 
IE: 2700mhz NB w/ 1333mhz (Cas 6-6-6-18-1T) vs 2300mhz NB w/ 1600mhz Cas 7-7-7-24-1T


 Gah I can't stabilize anything at 1500.







Well not for more than 3.5 hours anyway. I've decided to switch it around some and run @ 1333 with 6-5-5-15-20-1T timings with the NB @ 2400 and CPU @ 3600. So far that setup is 5.5 hours stable (still testing).

I have a bunch of screen shots of various NB speeds, RAM frequencies and timings. 
The highest throughput was at 2700 NB, I cant remember off of the top of my head if that was 1333 or not, but it was with some pretty loose timings (8-9-9-25). When I finish the stress tests I'll post my results. Unless you guys would rather I make a whole new thread about it. Don't be apprehensive to say so, I wont get offended.


----------



## loony

I haven't been here in ages. But I've come back because I'm trying to sell my 939 system and If I can't sell it, I dunno what to do with it. Any suggestions/help?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I've decided to switch it around some and run @ 1333 with 6-5-5-15-20-1T timings with the NB @ 2400 and CPU @ 3600. So far that setup is 5.5 hours stable (still testing).


BlackOmega, this combination is a good. 2400Mhz with CAS 6 is better then running looser timings at stock NB Freq. The memory frequency isn't bad either ddr3-1333(666Mhz). Do you have any Everest memory benchmark comparisons?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I have a bunch of screen shots of various NB speeds, RAM frequencies and timings. 
The highest throughput was at 2700 NB, I cant remember off of the top of my head if that was 1333 or not, but it was with some pretty loose timings (8-9-9-25).


I wouldn't mind seeing those results









Good luck


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *loony*


I haven't been here in ages. But I've come back because I'm trying to sell my 939 system and If I can't sell it, I dunno what to do with it. Any suggestions/help?


Loony, check out the Appraisals section. Post up your items there and see what the guys say in terms of value/price.

Hope that helps


----------



## Blitz6804

I believe that he already has. His appraisal thread and For Sale thread are both on OCN. I believe his question was: in the event that it does not sell, what should he re-purpose the tech for?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, this combination is a good. 2400Mhz with CAS 6 is better then running looser timings at stock NB Freq. The memory frequency isn't bad either ddr3-1333(666Mhz). *Do you have any Everest memory benchmark comparisons?*

I wouldn't mind seeing those results









Good luck

I most surely do. The higher NB speeds of course have quite a bit higher throughput but even at the speeds I have it at now (6-6-5-17-22-1T, I thought I had it at 6-5-5-15-20-1T) with the NB at 2400 the throughput is still very nice. Not as nice as 2700 or 2750 of course, but the difference is it's stable.

And for you guys planning the AM3 upgrade soon (Joe thlnk3r) you'll quickly come to the conclusion that memory is the key to it all. I have more RAM testing with this AM3 rig than I have ever done with my 939's. There is definitely a much more noticeable speed improvement when you get your RAM timings/speed/NB right than there ever was with our 939's.

EDIT:thlnk3r, I'm on my silly little netbook at the moment, I'll post the screenies when I get to my rig.









EDIT 2: Loony, make it into a folding rig. If the rumors about Fermi's throughput are accurate even with a single card you could pump out 50k per day.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I believe his question was: in the event that it does not sell, what should he re-purpose the tech for?


Blitz, aside from the thread searching...if you're interpreting it that way then please provide some assistance









Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


And for you guys planning the AM3 upgrade soon (Joe thlnk3r) you'll quickly come to the conclusion that memory is the key to it all. I have more RAM testing with this AM3 rig than I have ever done with my 939's. There is definitely a much more noticeable speed improvement when you get your RAM timings/speed/NB right than there ever was with our 939's.

EDIT 2: Loony, make it into a folding rig. If the rumors about Fermi's throughput are accurate even with a single card you could pump out 50k per day.


BlackOmega, memory definitely plays a bigger roll. I've suggested a high NB Freq with tighter sub-timings to quite a few people and they seem to like the improvement. Thanks to Tator I wouldn't have known about that. Though your situation about having a higher HT Clock speed allowing for LOWER cpu voltage is very interesting.

By the way good suggestion about Loony's spare hardware. I'd personally use the extra hardware for a lab/testing environment.

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, memory definitely plays a bigger roll. I've suggested a high NB Freq with tighter sub-timings to quite a few people and they seem to like the improvement. Thanks to Tator I wouldn't have known about that. Though your situation about *having a higher HT Clock speed allowing for LOWER cpu voltage* is very interesting.


Well thlnk3r I have a theory in my head pertaining to that. I believe that if you can make all your settings divisible by lets say 225, 250 etc. that the system as a whole runs more efficiently. Part of the reason I've been coming to that conclusion is the half dividers. It seems whenever I use one even though the numbers might say it's faster, it actually feels more sluggish. But Like I said it's just a theory that's been floating around in my head.

And here are some screen shots of the various memory settings and timings.

My current settings:










NB @ 2700 and 1500MHz RAM, timings set to auto:










I'm probably going to mess around with it some more see if there's something I am missing about stabilizing the RAM at a higher frequency.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Well thlnk3r I have a theory in my head pertaining to that. I believe that if you can make all your settings divisible by lets say 225, 250 etc. that the system as a whole runs more efficiently. Part of the reason I've been coming to that conclusion is the half dividers. It seems whenever I use one even though the numbers might say it's faster, it actually feels more sluggish. But Like I said it's just a theory that's been floating around in my head.

BlackOmega, interesting thoughts. I really never looked at it that way. Maybe Tator can share some of his previous testing experiences. He has tested quite a few AM3 boards/chips...not sure if he's done specifically what has been described above though.

So you're only about 3 hours stable with the 2700NB Freq & 1500Mhz memory?

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Though your situation about having a higher HT Clock speed allowing for LOWER cpu voltage is very interesting.


Like I said when I got my Deneb? Like the Phenom II database has confirmed?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, interesting thoughts. I really never looked at it that way. Maybe Tator can share some of his previous testing experiences. He has tested quite a few AM3 boards/chips...not sure if he's done specifically what has been described above though.

*So you're only about 3 hours stable with the 2700NB Freq & 1500Mhz memory*?

Good luck


 It's totally memtest stable, although when I run prime it restarts after a period of time. The higher I take the RAM voltage the longer it's stable but I'm not comfortable taking it past 2.1v as I honestly don't know what the sticks can take.
But I'm going to mess around with someof the other voltage settings and see if any of those provide more stability.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, interesting thoughts. I really never looked at it that way. Maybe Tator can share some of his previous testing experiences. He has tested quite a few AM3 boards/chips...not sure if he's done specifically what has been described above though.

So you're only about 3 hours stable with the 2700NB Freq & 1500Mhz memory?

Good luck

I haven't run into a sluggish feeling before. But I have noticed that HT Clocks like 223x15 are much harder to stabilize than 225x15.

This is why I normally suggest only bumping by 5mhz increments.

And sometimes, some HT Clocks do not play well with X.5 multi's.

I had some huge trouble trying to get 300x13.5 to stabilize. But I bumped the multi and was able to do 300x14 no problem with less voltage.


----------



## stetsonaw

had the 3200+ before i upgraded, had it running at 2.5ghz on air.


----------



## Fa11ou7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Hey Fa11ou7, When was the last time you defrag'd your HDD? I have similar system w/ a 3500+ xp x64 2g ram and I can have a ton of IE windows open w/word and not have any bogging of the system. How may tasks do you have running in the task manager when this bogging down takes place?

I usually defrag every couple of months or at least do the defrag diagnostic. I just reformatted and reinstalled XP tho to get ready for my opty 165 and its a lot better (it had been a year or so since my last reinstall). It still tends to get lagged down with multiple programs running, but it is defiantly better.


----------



## Blitz6804

Is this IE 6? 7? 8? For XP, I recommend getting Firefox. For Vista, Internet Explorer 7/8 work okay, but in XP, 7/8 are VERY slow compared to 6.


----------



## Fa11ou7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Is this IE 6? 7? 8? For XP, I recommend getting Firefox. For Vista, Internet Explorer 7/8 work okay, but in XP, 7/8 are VERY slow compared to 6.


I've been using IE 8, I'll give firefox a shot, thanks.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Like I said when I got my Deneb? Like the Phenom II database has confirmed?


Blitz6804, I haven't really noticed this on any other overclocks so that's probably why I find BlackOmega situation interesting. Pump the brakes









Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


although when I run prime it restarts after a period of time.


BlackOmega, I'm assuming that is because memtest86+ doesn't test the IMC on the processor (just the memory itself). Prime95 most certainly does which probably explains why it's restarting/bsod. Did you max out your cpu-nb voltage at 1.4? Pretty sure you mentioned this already so I do apologize.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


I haven't run into a sluggish feeling before. But I have noticed that HT Clocks like 223x15 are much harder to stabilize than 225x15.

This is why I normally suggest only bumping by 5mhz increments.


Tator, interesting. I'll try and remember that when I get my quad-core. Did you have the same problems with K8 (example 223x15)? I always overclocked in whole number increments so I don't think I ever noticed









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fa11ou7*


I usually defrag every couple of months or at least do the defrag diagnostic


Fa11ou7, hey I'm glad things are running better for you. A monthly defrag is usually what most users recommended. I personally do it weekly but that's just me.

Good luck


----------



## Fa11ou7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Fa11ou7, hey I'm glad things are running better for you. A monthly defrag is usually what most users recommended. I personally do it weekly but that's just me.

Good luck


I've never really noticed a difference doing a defrag so I just do it when the program tells me it needs it which is usually every couple of months.

Just curious, I've been using this s939 system for.... 5-6 years so I haven't been paying attention to the newer cpus much. I know that the i5-i7's are supposed to be the top of the line essentially, but they also cost the most. I have a hard time understanding amd, I started with pentium back in the day and I've never quite figured out amd.

Can you guys give me a quickie on the latest amd cpus and sockets, etc. I was planning on my next system being an i5 but I have heard that its possible that the current amd socket might be compatible to the new 6 core amd's where Intel doesn't like to stick with a socket for very long.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, I'm assuming that is because memtest86+ doesn't test the IMC on the processor (just the memory itself). Prime95 most certainly does which probably explains why it's restarting/bsod. Did you max out your cpu-nb voltage at 1.4? Pretty sure you mentioned this already so I do apologize.









I'm not sure if I maxed it out or not. There's a lot of voltage setting that I'm not 100% sure as to what their exact function is. From what I've been reading over at the GD70 club is there are some other voltage settings that help stabilize higher RAM frequencies. So I'm still not technically done, but my current configuration is 7.5 hours stable, I'm sure it could pass 24+ hours of prime. Although I am thinking of changing my stress test software back to Orthos. Prime doesn't stop loading the cores that didn't fail.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Fa11ou7* 

Just curious, I've been using this s939 system for.... 5-6 years so I haven't been paying attention to the newer cpus much. I know that the i5-i7's are supposed to be the top of the line essentially, but they also cost the most. I have a hard time understanding amd, I started with pentium back in the day and I've never quite figured out amd.

Can you guys give me a quickie on the latest amd cpus and sockets, etc. I was planning on my next system being an i5 but I have heard that its possible that the current amd socket might be compatible to the new 6 core amd's where Intel doesn't like to stick with a socket for very long.

At the moment the i7 is the king of the hill, althoughthe mew AMD's are no slouch either. At stock settings even my 720 will beat out an i7 at stock (at least in 3dmark06). But once the overclocking begins is when it really starts to pull ahead.

BUT it all depends on what you use your rig for. If you don't really do any intensive encoding or video editing there's really no point in getting an i5 or i7. In gaming there is really no noticeable difference between an Phenom II AMD or the Intel i7. And amazingly enough even my 720 in reviews has beaten the i7 and AMD quads because of its L3 cache size.
Although the Intel i7's do benchmark considerably better, the i5 doesn't do nearly as well.
So as you see it really depends on your uses for the computer. If you mostly game and do very little encoding, 3dmodeling or video editing then an AMD will be plenty for you. Now if you do a lot of encoding, 3d modeling or video editing the i7 is the smarter choice (notice I didn't say i5).


----------



## Fa11ou7

Your absolutely right Black, I thought i should put what I use it for after I posted. The most intense thing my computers will probably ever be doing is gaming. I'm too lazy to learn how to do most other useful things, which shows by the fact that I have waited this long to start overclocking my 939. I actually just downloaded Fraps yesterday for the sole purpose of seeing what fps my 7800gt would do in bioshock









Mostly I was planning on getting the i5 because I thought it might give me a little better longevity in a new system. I figured after a few years and the i9's come out I could slap a much less expensive i7(s1156) in the same mobo.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fa11ou7*


Your absolutely right Black, I thought i should put what I use it for after I posted. The most intense thing my computers will probably ever be doing is gaming. I'm too lazy to learn how to do most other useful things, which shows by the fact that I have waited this long to start overclocking my 939. I actually just downloaded Fraps yesterday for the sole purpose of seeing what fps my 7800gt would do in bioshock









Mostly I was planning on getting the i5 because I thought it might give me a little better longevity in a new system. I figured after a few years and the i9's come out I could slap a much less expensive i7(s1156) in the same mobo.


 I very recently put this AM3 rig together, at most a month ago. Until then I was using an Opteron 180 939 rig running @ 2.9, and to tell you quite honestly there really isn't a game that is unplayable with that rig. However, I'm sure pretty soon more and more demanding games will come out that run better on multi-core systems. Not to mention Direct x 11, while sure the 939 rigs will get a good performance boost from the more powerful GPU's like the 5870, the actual speed of the 939's is what's going to be the limiting factor st that point. If I could've gotten a 939 to run @ 3.5 GHz I would've never upgraded.

As for longevity, the AM3 socket is very recent so I highly doubt that AMD is going to change that so soon. If anything they'll probably do what they did with AM2. Not to mention the revisions of their CPUs are going to get better and better so the gap between intel and AMD is going to diminish.

But if you must go intel don't get the 1156. Go with the 1366 pin (i7). From what I've read intel is going to make the 1156 more mainstream and relegate the 1366 to a server only socket. That's why it's a better choice in my opinion, later on you'll be able to upgrade to a server chip, which in my experience, are more robust and hearty and usually take more of a beating than desktop CPU's.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator, interesting. I'll try and remember that when I get my quad-core. Did you have the same problems with K8 (example 223x15)? I always overclocked in whole number increments so I don't think I ever noticed










No. Even though it's limited experience, my 3700+ (Single Core) & x2 4000+ both had no issues doing 283 x (stock multi)

The highest I was ever able to push them. But it was still some serious HT clock there.


----------



## Blitz6804

The AM3+ will be out in 6-12 months if I remember what I read right. There is not even a rumor mill for what is after that.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


The AM3+ will be out in 6-12 months if I remember what I read right. There is not even a rumor mill for what is after that.


Bulldozer









But Blitz is right. End of '11 should mark the AM3+ Launch along with a new chipset with PCIe 3.0 and obviously a new platform.

The Joke right now is Hexa-Fire.

We'll see a 6 way CrossfireX option for that generation of GPU's to compliment the >4 Core (proposed 6 core) CPU's for the AM3r2 (AM3+) platform.


----------



## Blitz6804

How will that happen? Is not Windows currently limited to 4 GPUs?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


How will that happen? Is not Windows currently limited to 4 GPUs?


No, Folding farms can run Multiple 9800GX2's or GTX295's.

Some boards were limited in the past and not able to run over 3 9800GX2s though.

Windows XP might have had a GPU limitation of 4 I Think...but I can't recall for sure. They had some excuse though, as to why XP couldn't do Quad-Fire/Quad-Sli.

If you haven't seen: Atlas Folder


----------



## Blitz6804

Quadfire / Quad-SLI in XP was solely due to drivers. I seem to recall the GPU milking farm (6x 9800GX2 on a single mobo) had to run Linux with multiple Windows virtual machines due to the limitation.


----------



## Fa11ou7

The Phenom II x3 is the x4 with the fourth core locked down right? I remember reading on Toms hardware that some people are able to open up the fourth core themselves. Maybe I'm just remembering wrong.

Wow with all the new stuff coming out I'm glad I waited to build my new system. I love my s939 system I haven't done any serious overclocking (cause I don't know what I'm doing) but it has been a very reliable system. As long as the dual core opty I bought isn't bad I'm gonna hold onto it for another year at least to see what happens with all this new tech.

Could someone explain how much of a difference there is between a Pci-e and Pci-e 2.0. To me it seems like sticking a powerful pcie 2.0 card into an older board is wasteful so i grabbed an HD 4670 ($56) for my pcie mobo. I hate to spend a bunch of money on a really nice card if its going to hit a bottleneck with my ancient system.


----------



## Blitz6804

Some Phenom II x3s resulted when a core of a would-be Phenom II x4 was bad. (Just like the Phenom II x4 810s resulted when some of the L3 of a Phenom II x4 920 was bad.) Others were intentionally disabled to meet demand. If your chip is of the latter variety (such as DesertRat's) you can reenable that which AMD disabled.

As to PCIe2 versus PCIe1: just double whatever the multiplier is shown on the PCIe2. That is, PCIe2 8x = PCIe1 16x. PCIe2 16x = PCIe1 32x, et cetera.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fa11ou7*


The Phenom II x3 is the x4 with the fourth core locked down right? I remember reading on Toms hardware that some people are able to open up the fourth core themselves. Maybe I'm just remembering wrong.

Wow with all the new stuff coming out I'm glad I waited to build my new system. I love my s939 system I haven't done any serious overclocking (cause I don't know what I'm doing) but it has been a very reliable system. As long as the dual core opty I bought isn't bad I'm gonna hold onto it for another year at least to see what happens with all this new tech.

Could someone explain how much of a difference there is between a Pci-e and Pci-e 2.0. To me it seems like sticking a powerful pcie 2.0 card into an older board is wasteful so i grabbed an HD 4670 ($56) for my pcie mobo. I hate to spend a bunch of money on a really nice card if its going to hit a bottleneck with my ancient system.


 You're absolutely right about the tricores. They're basically the x4's with typically 1 defective core. And then of course the PhenomII x2's (550BE) typically have 2 defective cores. And yes some people have been able to unlock them successfully, I wasn't, but no big deal I didn't buy expecting that it would.

As for the bandwidth of PCIe 1.0 relative to 2.0, PCIe 1.0 x16 is equivalent to PCIe 2.0 x8. And to date the only card that can fully saturate a PCIe 1.0 x16 or PCIe 2.0 x8 is the newest ATi offering the 5870. The 5870 is right _at_ the max threshold of the PCIe 1.0x16 & PCIe2.0 x8 throughput. 
Like I said before the limiting factor with 939's is CPU frequency (speed) and nothing else. Not even the RAM, as some 939 members have been able to achieve DDR2 speeds and throughput with their DDR sticks which is what the 939 uses.

And remember, even though the tech is getting better and better, it's also getting cheaper. 
To put it in perspective, I bought my 720BE, my motherboard and my RAM for what just my 939 opty 165 cost new.


----------



## Fa11ou7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


And remember, even though the tech is getting better and better, it's also getting cheaper. 
To put it in perspective, I bought my 720BE, my motherboard and my RAM for what just my 939 opty 165 cost new.










haha, ya you should have seen me do the happy dance when I won the ebay bid on my 165 for $36.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


And to date the only card that can fully saturate a PCIe 1.0 x16 or PCIe 2.0 x8 is the newest ATi offering the 5870. The 5870 is right _at_ the max threshold of the PCIe 1.0x16 & PCIe2.0 x8 throughput.


So what your saying (please bear with my low brow thought process) is that if I was able to overclock my system efficiently enough I could fully, or nearly fully utilize a 5870?!?!?!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Fa11ou7* 
haha, ya you should have seen me do the happy dance when I won the ebay bid on my 165 for $36.









Man thats a smokin deal you got on that opty. That's less than I paid for my 3800x2, I would've much rather had an opty.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Fa11ou7* 
So what your saying (please bear with my low brow thought process) is that if I was able to overclock my system efficiently enough I could fully, or nearly fully utilize a 5870?!?!?!

In theory, that's exactly what I'm saying. The problem is that 939's just can't achieve high enough clocks (frequency, speed) to utilize that. I'm honestly curious as to what a 939 rig with a 5870 could do and what it would score in 3dm06. Especially if you used that new ASrock 939 board that has PCIe 2.0 slots on it.

Speaking of which (the ASrock board), I'm really curious as to what kind's of settings are available in the BIOS.







I wonder if they made more voltage adjustments available like on my AM3. If that's the case I wonder if it would be able to better overclock 939 chips.

If I can find one for cheap enough (and I have the extra cash laying around) I might just get one to see what it can do.


----------



## BlackOmega

Have you guys seen anyone selling that AsRock 939 board? I know they debuted it and all, but I've checked newegg, ZZF and TD not a one of them have it. I'm really curious as to the price of the board.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Quadfire / Quad-SLI in XP was solely due to drivers. I seem to recall the GPU milking farm (6x 9800GX2 on a single mobo) had to run Linux with multiple Windows virtual machines due to the limitation.


Well that's 12 GPU's, I know atleast 8 work as you can do 4 x 9800GX2 or 4 x GTX295


----------



## Hueristic

You have to contact newegg and they will order it.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Have you guys seen anyone selling that AsRock 939 board? I know they debuted it and all, but I've checked newegg, ZZF and TD not a one of them have it. I'm really curious as to the price of the board.


Maybe they will hit the stores when everyone has forgot about them &/or when the DDR ram prices come back down.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
You have to contact newegg and they will order it.

I might just have to do that. Any idea on the price?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Maybe they will hit the stores when everyone has forgot about them &/or *when the DDR ram prices come back down*.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I might just have to do that. Any idea on the price?

I think I read it was like $70.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I might just have to do that. Any idea on the price?

MSRP was $69.99 last report.


----------



## Fa11ou7

Here is my CPU-Z screen if you guys are still adding ppl to the list.

Plz let me know if anything looks wacky. I'm going to take some pictures of my bios and post those at some point to see if you guys can help me there. If i try taking the HTT above ~235 then my system won't boot. The bios is so confusing for me, way to many options to sift through.

With the new opty 165 super pi (1m) goes 7 secs faster. On the other hand when I pulled my 3200+ out the heatsink was stuck to the processor cause the thermal paste had dried out..







... I'm sure that didn't help any.


----------



## Blitz6804

You might want to reduce your HT Link to 4x instead of 5x. What RAM divider are you running right now? I would suggest using DDR-333 (166 MHz / 200:166 / 6:5, or similar) for testing's sake.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


I think I read it was like $70.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


MSRP was $69.99 last report.



Thanks fellas.









Well when and if I ever have $70 burning a hole in my pocket I'll be sure to pick it up.....

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fa11ou7*


Plz let me know if anything looks wacky. I'm going to take some pictures of my bios and post those at some point to see if you guys can help me there. *If i try taking the HTT above ~235 then my system won't boot.* The bios is so confusing for me, way to many options to sift through.


 Be sure to set your RAM divider down one notch. Also your CPU voltage seems pretty high for a mere 300MHz increase. Drop it down to 1.40v. Also if you could post a CPUz validation link that would be more helpful as it gives more information like your RAM speed and timings.

And most decent boards should be able to easily pull 250 HTT without any voltage increase.

So try this, set your RAM divider as low as it'll go. Set your CPU to 6x and the CPU voltage to 1.35v, then try starting it up at 235 HTT. I bet it'll boot just fine. Run Orthos or prime95 or OCCT for about 10 minutes. If you get no errors reboot and crank it up to 245 repeat testing procedure then move on to 255, and so on. Keep going until it wont boot or blue screens then crank up your Northbridge (NB) voltage 1 notch. Then try again. As before keep going until it wont boot or bluescreens, then raise it another notch. But it you get to 300 HTT or more, you honestly won't need any more than that so no point in testing it any further.

Once you get done with that, post back and we'll give you further instruction.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fa11ou7*


With the new opty 165 super pi (1m) goes 7 secs faster. On the other hand when *I pulled my 3200+ out the heatsink was stuck to the processor cause the thermal paste had dried out*..







... I'm sure that didn't help any.


 When removing any heatsink that's been seated for a while, after unlatching it, twist it instead of just pulling. That will ensure that the CPU stays in its socket without the possibility of tearing it out and damaging the pins.

Good Luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


When removing any heatsink that's been seated for a while, after unlatching it, twist it instead of just pulling. That will ensure that the CPU stays in its socket without the possibility of tearing it out and damaging the pins.

Good Luck










Here is another option to keep in mind when removing a stock heat sink. Some stock heatsinks/and mobo sockets don't allow for much room to twist the h/s prior to removeall. You should alway run your cpu on a stress test for a min or two to get the thermal paste good and warm. If that don't let it come off w/out a ton of force then you can always remove the cpu from the mobo w/the h/s attatched and then remove the cpu from the h/s once you get it out of the socket safely. this later option should only be used as a last resort because it is very easy to damage your pins when working on any unprotected cpu. Of course there are other options but they are not really worth mentioning at this time.


----------



## BlackOmega

N2, you don't need to move it very much. A mere 2mm rotation is sufficient to break it loose. On lapped CPU's however sometimes you need more than that but turning it back and forth, that 2mm is more than enough..


----------



## N2Gaming

I guess that would all depend on the kind of TIM being used as well as how much. Stock Heat sinks tend to have a lot of TIM on them and sometimes can be pretty hard to remove at times w/out the cpu ripping out of the socket w/the Heat sink attatched. Also depending how concave the cpu IHS is will depend on how much of a vaccum there is between the IHS & H/S.


----------



## Tator Tot

stock tim = pidgin poo.

Except on Arctic Cooling products, as they have used MX-2 as stock for awhile now. 
(IE: the Freezer Pro, Freezer Low profile, & Apline series have all had stock paste being MX2)

Also, if you don't have a delided chip, try the razor blade method. 
Slide it under and try to loosen the sides.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fa11ou7*


Here is my CPU-Z screen if you guys are still adding ppl to the list.


Fa11ou7, most definitely. I added you the roster with your CPU-Z entry. I hope the above suggestions help you out.

Keep us updated

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Welcome to the club Fa11ou7.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
stock tim = pidgin poo.

Except on Arctic Cooling products, as they have used MX-2 as stock for awhile now.
(IE: the Freezer Pro, Freezer Low profile, & Apline series have all had stock paste being MX2)

Also, if you don't have a delided chip, try the razor blade method.
Slide it under and try to loosen the sides.

I actually prefer the super thin white pigeon poo paste when both surfaces are lapped. The thicker pastes can actually hinder heat transfer with lapped stuff.


----------



## N2Gaming

I kind of spoiled my self by using MX-2 and my Zalman CNPS 9700 H/S w/o having to lap IHS or H/S.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, I was VERY impressed with how flat was Zalman factory finishes were. The problem is, I did not realize how blessed I was until I had my Thermalright product. The Noctua looks better than Thermalright, but not as good as Zalman. I wonder how Megahalems are?

Twowheelmotion, readhat_ownage, and Fa11ou7: I swear, I am updating the off-site roster now. Sorry for the delay.


----------



## Blitz6804

Okay all, the off-site roster is now updated. To answer your query redhat_ownage, you are indeed the fastest 3000+ on the list at 2703 MHz. The runners up are Ayah at 2637 MHz and TheCh3f at 2616 MHz.


----------



## Fa11ou7

thanks for the add and all the help guys.

For the life of me I cannot find anything to do with ram divider or ram in general in my bios other than voltage. I'm trying to get some software to download pics from my phone then I'll post a bios shot.

On that cpu-z pic that I posted earlier I ran prime 95 for a few hours and didnt have any errors or warnings

Also it seems that whatever the mobo uses to collect temperatures isn't working cause it always says my system tem is ~100c and my cpu is at ~0C

Edit: Here are some pics; my cell bios options and a pic of my temps/prime 95 (its a desktop shot that i had to chop up because the file is too large to upload)


----------



## Blitz6804

What are you using? CoreTemp? Speedfan? What does your BIOS show?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Yeah, I was VERY impressed with how flat was Zalman factory finishes were. The problem is, I did not realize how blessed I was until I had my Thermalright product. The Noctua looks better than Thermalright, but not as good as Zalman. *I wonder how Megahalems are?*


My Megahalems came almost perfectly flat. Though, the finish is not mirror, it's very nice.

The only coolers I've run into that come very flat are HDT stuff (but you need to fill in the gaps sometimes) and the Megahalems.

Noctua always seems to be a bit warped. But my NH-U12P-SE2 was more flat than the original U12P was.


----------



## Fa11ou7

Oops I edited some some pics into my last post since no one had posted.

So far I've been running cpu-z, ntune, CoreCenter, and prime95 to test things out. I finally got Cpu-z to validate so here is the link.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, do not use MSI's software. Go download CoreTemp and see how that looks. I have to ask, why did you decrease your multiplier (Adjust CPU ratio) to 6x rather than leaving it at 9x? Are you testing for your maximum HTT?


----------



## Fa11ou7

I was just trying BlackOmegas instructions, kinda pointless since I can't find anything to adjust my ram speed.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Be sure to set your RAM divider down one notch. Also your CPU voltage seems pretty high for a mere 300MHz increase. Drop it down to 1.40v. Also if you could post a CPUz validation link that would be more helpful as it gives more information like your RAM speed and timings.

And most decent boards should be able to easily pull 250 HTT without any voltage increase.

So try this, set your RAM divider as low as it'll go. Set your CPU to 6x and the CPU voltage to 1.35v, then try starting it up at 235 HTT. I bet it'll boot just fine. Run Orthos or prime95 or OCCT for about 10 minutes. If you get no errors reboot and crank it up to 245 repeat testing procedure then move on to 255, and so on. Keep going until it wont boot or blue screens then crank up your Northbridge (NB) voltage 1 notch. Then try again. As before keep going until it wont boot or bluescreens, then raise it another notch. But it you get to 300 HTT or more, you honestly won't need any more than that so no point in testing it any further.


Edit: Ohh Snap core temp works!!


----------



## Blitz6804

Is this the only adjustable page in your BIOS? What are the options under "High Performance Mode?"


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Or you could get this GPU combo


That is very cool. Too bad they used Thermaltake components in the WC loop







.
I like the idea of air-cooled water blocks!


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


That is very cool. Too bad they used Thermaltake components in the WC loop







.
I like the idea of air-cooled water blocks!


It t'was a joke.

In actual application, air cooling a FC waterblock has no benefits besides moving more air through your case.


----------



## Fa11ou7

Here are some more pics of my bios; Bios main page, Dram config page (looked important) and repost of the Cell menu.

in the manual "high peformance mode" allows you to select the DDR timing settings the choices are manual or optimized. When I put it to manual it doesnt seem to open up any other selections tho so I'm not sure how manual helps any.


----------



## Blitz6804

On screenshot #2: set "Timing Mode" from [Auto] to [Manual]. This should enable you to change "Memclock index value (Mhz)." This is your RAM divider. What options are there?

On screenshot #3: set "High Performance Mode" from [Optimized] to [Manual]. We only want the board to overclock what we tell it to, not what it thinks you want overclocked.


----------



## Fa11ou7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


On screenshot #2: set "Timing Mode" from [Auto] to [Manual]. This should enable you to change "Memclock index value (Mhz)." This is your RAM divider. What options are there?

On screenshot #3: set "High Performance Mode" from [Optimized] to [Manual]. We only want the board to overclock what we tell it to, not what it thinks you want overclocked.


Awesome thanks!

The divider goes from 100mhz to 250mhz.

I dropped it down to 100 and have my HTT up to 280 and so far its stable

Edit: I put the multiplier back up to 9 and Im running prime 95.


----------



## Blitz6804

Okay, that is RAM speed non DDR. So 100 MHz = DDR-200, 133 MHz = DDR-266, 166 MHz = DDR-333, 200 MHz = DDR-400, and 250 MHz = DDR-500. Since you are limited by a 9x multiplier, to get 3.0 GHz, you would need an HTT of at least 333 MHz, which could be hard for some boards. (Do not expect to be able to get that high with a 9x either.) Most people need to use the DDR-333 (166 MHz) to get their RAM to acceptable speeds while overclocked, some need DDR-266 (133 MHz). For now, you want it where you have it to find the limits of your HTT; reduce your multiplier to 5x to test. Once you know the limits of your HTT, write it down and drop back to about 235 MHz HTT, put your CPU multiplier to 9x, and increase the HTT again until you are unstable. Reduce the multiplier by 1 (to 8x) and repeat until your are unstable. Keep doing this until you hit your maximum HTT. Take note of your maximum CPU speed (multiplier x HTT). Once you do this, put your CPU back to 5x, your HTT back to 235, and your RAM to 200 MHz again to find the limits of your RAM. With the limits of your RAM, HTT, and CPU, you can compute the "ideal" overclock.

Optional step: Set the HT Frequency to 5x, RAM to 100 MHz, CPU to 5x, and increase HTT until you are no longer stable. Reduce HT frequency to 4x and continue. This will yield your maximum Hypertransport.


----------



## Fa11ou7

Again thank you so much for the help. Its gonna take me a bit to do all that but I couldn't have gotten this far without you guys









here is my latest Cpu-z


Wish me luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Good luck! The best overclocks need time, patience, and of course, love to get perfect. Overclocking is not something you can do on a whim unless you have an unlocked multiplier, but instead something you want to do for your personal enrichment.


----------



## Fa11ou7

I've already hit what I was hoping to get 2.5 ghz so anything from there is just icing for me. On another note with my HTT at 280, my multiplier at x9, and my Mem at 100mhz I decided to run bioshock and my fps were at 60 were the best I had seen previously was around 24 so thats freakin awesome for me!! These settings are the ones I had linked with my last cpu-z score. Prime 95 ran fine for the 21 mins that I let it go but my cpu got up to 57c. I believe thats acceptable but I was hoping for a bit better. I have 7 fans in total (including the gpu, cpu, and one removable hard drive fan) so I'm not too worried about the temp. I have a fan blowing directly on the ram also.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes, your Opteron 165 can run up to 65Âº C no problem. Once you get the RAM back up to speed, you should see your framerate go even higher. (Also do not forget, you are used to playing Bioshock with a single-core CPU; you have a dual now.)


----------



## BlackOmega

Very nice fallout. Glad to see that you were able to find the settings that work for you.


----------



## Fa11ou7

The interesting thing, to me at least, is that as I am adjusting settings if I windows will boot its stable. I never have a problem in Prime 95. But if its unstable, the system will either not post at all or when xp tries to boot it blue screens and reboots itself.

One question tho, I'm having problems getting it to boot with the HT at 5x at the mid to upper ends of the HTT scale. This doesnt matter if the multiplier is at 4x or 9x, any ideas?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fa11ou7*


The interesting thing, to me at least, is that as I am adjusting settings if I windows will boot its stable. I never have a problem in Prime 95. But if its unstable, the system will either not post at all or when xp tries to boot it blue screens and reboots itself.


 You can turn off the auto reboot by right clicking on "My Computer", then click the advanced tab, then in the "Startup and Recovery" box click settings. Then in the "System Failure" box un-check "Automatically Restart", click ok. Then it wont reboot.

As for system testing, prime is good for testing an overall system overclock or incremental HTT bumps.
For 939's I personally prefer to use S&M v1.9.1 (scroll down until you find it). It stresses the system harder than Prime. If there's a failure it'll tell you where it is. For instance, if I get an L1 cache failure, I know that my CPU needs more voltage. If I get an L2 or an FPU failure I know my temps are too high.

Prime doesn't really tell you much other than it failed.

If you decide to run S&M, for your first initial run make sure you choose short duration. You don't have to test the RAM (unless you want to) and the HDD test takes for freakin EVER!









Good luck.


----------



## Blitz6804

I would recommend NOT running the HDD test unless you have a reason to. Else, you are just shortening their lives pointlessly.


----------



## Fa11ou7

finally working on increasing the ram speed. I got it up to 166 so far and then I ran S&M memory test and it came up with 1 single address error and 1 multiple bits bus error. Any idea what that means?


----------



## Blitz6804

Your RAM is running too fast, too tight, or has too low of voltage. Can you show us a screen shot of your CPU-Z memory tab and CPU-Z SPD tab?


----------



## Fa11ou7

After that test I was able to push my ram up to 188 and still get it to boot into XP. at 150 and higher it locks up with continual long beeps (I stopped counting at 12). If I hit the reset button it will boot normal, at least untill I restart again.

here are the CPU-Z tabs you mentioned at 188mhz


----------



## Blitz6804

You are right now running DDR-392 at its spec for DDR-400. If you bump the HTT another one or two megahertz you should be fine. However, you cannot run any higher of divider at present. If you want to try, you will (at the very least) need to loosen CAS latency to 3.0.


----------



## Hueristic

Try CL 3.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well guys for the time being, I don't have ANY Socket 939 hardware anymore (or any at all for that matter). I would like to keep my CPUz links on the rosters though if possible. I'm hoping that I can still save my old main rig.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I would recommend NOT running the HDD test unless you have a reason to. Else, you are just shortening their lives pointlessly.

Blitz6804, is the S&M HD test just a surface scan? Sorry I've never ran the application extensively on any of my machines.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Fa11ou7* 
After that test I was able to push my ram up to 188 and still get it to boot into XP. at 150 and higher it locks up with continual long beeps (I stopped counting at 12). If I hit the reset button it will boot normal, at least untill I restart again.

Fa11ou7, that's weird that it's locking up at a lower frequency. The VS512MB400 kit is rated at 2.5-3-3-8 so I don't see any problems there. All though CAS 3 wouldn't be a bad thing to try. Try bumping your VDimm (memory voltage) to 2.6volts. It looks like cpu-z is saying 2.5volts.

Let us know

Hope that helps









Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Well guys for the time being, I don't have ANY Socket 939 hardware anymore (or any at all for that matter). I would like to keep my CPUz links on the rosters though if possible. I'm hoping that I can still save my old main rig.

Pioneerisloud, no worries man...we'll keep them listed.


----------



## Fa11ou7

Thanks for the advice guys.

I got burnt out on overclocking for this weekend so I dropped the ram speed down to 140 mhz to be safe. Then I bumped the HTT back up to 278, I kept the HT at 4x (if i put it at 5x it wont let me put the HTT above 240ish) and put the multiplier at 9x. I wanted to play some games with my new gear and so far its running stable. I ran the S&M test on the memory and it still had those errors even at 140mhz but everything is still working fine. I'm almost curious if I should just bump it back up to 180mhz and see if it works fine, especially if I'm still getting the same errors at lower frequencies.

I'll go back and mess with the memory some more later this week or weekend. I did try bumping the cass up to 3 but then it wouldn't post at all. I did forget to point out that I have 2 different pairs of memory in the system, one corsair and the other is a generic.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fa11ou7*


I'll go back and mess with the memory some more later this week or weekend. I did try bumping the cass up to 3 but then it wouldn't post at all. I did forget to point out that I have 2 different pairs of memory in the system, one corsair and the other is a generic.


Fa11ou7, that may explain why you're having problems. For any type of overclocking it's recommended that you run memory that is matching either it be 2x1GB or 4x1GB. Make sure it's the same brand, sub-timings ect ect. A dual-channel kit like this is what I am referring to. We know what the Corsair memory is rated at but what about the other stick of memory? Try also looking into Memtest86+. This diagnostic tool is great for evaluating the memory after you have made changes to it (sub-timings & frequency). I recommend tests 5 and 8. Try shooting for at least 3 loops per test.

Good luck


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*









I'm not sure if I maxed it out or not. There's a lot of voltage setting that I'm not 100% sure as to what their exact function is. From what I've been reading over at the GD70 club is there are some other voltage settings that help stabilize higher RAM frequencies. So I'm still not technically done, but my current configuration is 7.5 hours stable, I'm sure it could pass 24+ hours of prime. Although I am thinking of changing my stress test software back to Orthos. Prime doesn't stop loading the cores that didn't fail.

At the moment the i7 is the king of the hill, althoughthe mew AMD's are no slouch either. At stock settings even my 720 will beat out an i7 at stock (at least in 3dmark06). But once the overclocking begins is when it really starts to pull ahead.

BUT it all depends on what you use your rig for. If you don't really do any intensive encoding or video editing there's really no point in getting an i5 or i7. In gaming there is really no noticeable difference between an Phenom II AMD or the Intel i7. And amazingly enough even my 720 in reviews has beaten the i7 and AMD quads because of its L3 cache size.
Although the Intel i7's do benchmark considerably better, the i5 doesn't do nearly as well.
So as you see it really depends on your uses for the computer. If you mostly game and do very little encoding, 3dmodeling or video editing then an AMD will be plenty for you. Now if you do a lot of encoding, 3d modeling or video editing the i7 is the smarter choice (notice I didn't say i5).


I don't know where you are right now in terms of getting your RAM settings squared away but here's something I did earlier with my MSI before my RAM began acting up. 
I'm hoping this will give you an idea how far you could push things but remember I was running PC 16000 RAM when I did this. With the timings I used doing this, yes I was really pushing it at the time.

Maybe this will give you some ideas....


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


I don't know where you are right now in terms of getting your RAM settings squared away but here's something I did earlier with my MSI before my RAM began acting up. 
I'm hoping this will give you an idea how far you could push things but remember I was running PC 16000 RAM when I did this. With the timings I used doing this, yes I was really pushing it at the time.

Maybe this will give you some ideas....


----------



## N2Gaming

Wow Kryton, DDR2-1656.2 @ 7.7.7.21.40.2T Did you ever increase your CPU NB multiplier to get your NB frequency higher then 2100MHz and compare any benchmark scores after doing so? It appears as if your NB and HT frequencies are running the same speeds in those screenies.


----------



## Fa11ou7

Well this morning I decided to drop my ram divider back down to 100 mhz and that seemed to fix everything. I know the best option would be to buy some decent ram but I don't want to spend any more money on this old system. It sucks that decent ddr ram is within a few dollars of new ddr3 ram sticks. But anyway, dropped it to 100 and ran S&M while I got ready for my day and all the errors were resolved so it looks like 100 is the magic number. My 165 is running at 2.5g so I'm happy with that. I think If I wanted I could get up to around 2.6 stable but I don't think it will affect much.


----------



## Blitz6804

The 133 MHz divider (DDR-360 with your present HTT) is unstable?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


I'm hoping this will give you an idea how far you could push things but remember I was running PC 16000 RAM when I did this. With the timings I used doing this, yes I was really pushing it at the time.


Kryton, beautiful overclock man! What kind of stability tests did you run at 4.1Ghz? I'm assuming this is on H2O









+1 Great job

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fa11ou7*


Well this morning I decided to drop my ram divider back down to 100 mhz and that seemed to fix everything. I know the best option would be to buy some decent ram but I don't want to spend any more money on this old system.


Fa11ou7, try manually changing the sub-timings for your memory to 3-3-3-8 to see if that will allow you to run a higher memory frequency (hopefully close or near the stock speed). This should change the timings for both sticks. Both those sticks of memory are different so that is probably the cause of your problems.

Club, please do not post about items that you are selling or wanting pricing for. These types of questions should go into the OCN Market Place.

Good luck


----------



## Fa11ou7

I'll try tinkering with the sub-timings when I get home from work tonight. I think I may have skipped 133, I was able to boot without any problems at 140 but S&M found errors and when I dropped it to 120mhz my system wouldn't boot at all so I had to reset my bios from the mobo.

On my gaming experience so far;
I think my fps is capped at 60 in bioshock because it barely even budges from there. Thats perfectly fine with me because all my settings are on high and rez is at 1920x1200. Last night I loaded Mass effect and had a different experience. I was getting from 20ish to 60 fps depending on what was going on, and the max rez I could enable in game was something like 1280x800. I didn't think it looked all that great, it was certainly playable but not amazing like bioshock.

I'm gonna pull out my new HD 4670 and put my old 7800gt in and see what happens since I never overclocked with my 7800. I will of course reload all the geforce drivers and crap.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fa11ou7*


I'll try tinkering with the sub-timings when I get home from work tonight. I think I may have skipped 133, I was able to boot without any problems at 140 but S&M found errors and when I dropped it to 120mhz my system wouldn't boot at all so I had to reset my bios from the mobo.

On my gaming experience so far;
I think my fps is capped at 60 in bioshock because it barely even budges from there. Thats perfectly fine with me because all my settings are on high and rez is at 1920x1200. Last night I loaded Mass effect and had a different experience. I was getting from 20ish to 60 fps depending on what was going on, and the max rez I could enable in game was something like 1280x800. I didn't think it looked all that great, it was certainly playable but not amazing like bioshock.

I'm gonna pull out my new HD 4670 and put my old 7800gt in and see what happens since I never overclocked with my 7800. I will of course reload all the geforce drivers and crap.


The reason you're getting the massive framerate drop is because your GPU just isn't powerful enough for that resolution honestly. HD4670 if I remember correctly is a little less powerful than a 9600GT. And neither card could handle past 1440x900 (1280x1024) very well at all on decent settings in a lot of games.

However the HD4670 will DEFINITELY be a much better card than your old 7800. I wouldn't even waste your time putting the 7800 in unless you have nothing better to do and you're just bored, lol.


----------



## Blitz6804

Mass Effect is a somewhat dodgy port of the console version. Two HD 3850s in Crossfire struggled with it.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Mass Effect is a somewhat dodgy port of the console version. Two HD 3850s in Crossfire struggled with it.


This...and the fact that he's on such a low resolution for THAT game (I missed that part with my last post). On such a low resolution, getting his Opteron165 clocked a little higher might actually help out a lot more than anything.


----------



## Fa11ou7

Ya Mass effect has that clunky Tomb raider console feeling that I hate. I like the RPG/Shooter part of it but I hate the 3rd person awkward movement of the character.

Edit;
I'm curious because my 7800gt lasted forever it just recently started to fail with gaming and I have been using it with 1900x1200 rez for at least a year. Another thing is that my system was never overclocked with my 7800 so it was running with a single core 3200+ at... what? 1.6ghz? I remember playing doom 3 with it and the game being playable (this was pre 1900 rez), the game just scared me too much to play it for long =O


----------



## Blitz6804

Doom is not Mass Effect. I have a 1920x1200 monitor and I sometimes have problems running my native with some games even with my hardware. Older games run fine (I run Need for Speed: High Stakes, SimCity 4, Civilization IV, any Age of Empires, et cetera, like butter) but newer games (Tom Clancy's H.A.W.X., Crysis, Fallout 3, et cetera) push the envelope quite a bit.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fa11ou7*


I'll try tinkering with the sub-timings when I get home from work tonight. I think I may have skipped 133, I was able to boot without any problems at 140 but S&M found errors and when I dropped it to 120mhz my system wouldn't boot at all so I had to reset my bios from the mobo.


Fa11ou7, have you tried testing with Memtest86+ yet? S&M is testing a variety of components so we really aren't entirely sure if your memory is at fault. Just a thought









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Older games run fine (SimCity 4, Civilization IV, any Age of Empires, et cetera, like butter)


Btliz, those RTS games are mainly cpu intensive so I wouldn't expect to see much degradation in graphic performance.

Good luck


----------



## Fa11ou7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Fa11ou7, have you tried testing with Memtest86+ yet? S&M is testing a variety of components so we really aren't entirely sure if your memory is at fault. Just a thought








Good luck


Not yet, but I did download it







I just have to find some time to run it. I have a lot going on this week... which I should have done this weekend but I was playin around like always.


----------



## thlnk3r

Fa11ou7, watch the language please


----------



## Fa11ou7

lol, I'm pretty sure thats the first time I've had someone tell me that since I was a teen.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fa11ou7*


lol, I'm pretty sure thats the first time I've had someone tell me that since I was a teen.


Fa11ou7, no worries









Keep us updated on the Memtest86 diagnostic!


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Wow Kryton, DDR2-1656.2 @ 7.7.7.21.40.2T Did you ever increase your CPU NB multiplier to get your NB frequency higher then 2100MHz and compare any benchmark scores after doing so? It appears as if your NB and HT frequencies are running the same speeds in those screenies.


Actually it's DDR3 RAM since the MSI board I have only supports DDR3. As to stability, I did a few runs with other proggys and even got one to run at tighter timings with the same speed. 
Also these were done on air but as I hinted before, I have a way to get some really cool air in the case (AC) and used that. Don't have any H2O hardware for it yet but in no hurry with that right now. Temps were high but not too high and monitored these as the runs progressed. MSI has done a fantastic job of getting DR. MOS to keep things cool but H2O would be even better.

Here's the run I hinted at with the tighter timings. Also have another one that shows stability but I'll dig that one up and post it later.


----------



## N2Gaming

I knew that Kryton, I must of just had a brain fart. Please excuse the error. Still that is a nice OC. You never meantioned any thing about NB spd's or multipliers.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*









I knew that Kryton, I must of just had a brain fart. Please excuse the error. Still that is a nice OC. You never meantioned any thing about NB spd's or multipliers.


No prob. I figured the CPU-Z tab would tell the story and that was done not long after I got the system built so I can't clearly recall how I had things setup in the BIOS. Since then, my RAM isn't what it used to be so no more runs like that from it. 
BTW, here's the other run I mentioned related to stability.


----------



## thlnk3r

Kryton, boy that 720BE is quite a beast. Do you have the full details of what is labeled on the IHS? Have you tried any other stability applications such as Prime95 or OCCT?

Good luck


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Kryton, boy that 720BE is quite a beast. Do you have the full details of what is labeled on the IHS? Have you tried any other stability applications such as Prime95 or OCCT?

Good luck


Here's what's on the lid of the chip:
HD720WKF3DGI
CACZC AC 0904DPMW

No, haven't tried either of those proggys yet because I can't keep it cool enough for that long of a period of time. The AC method is only a short to medium run solution and really need it on H2O to do those.

It also woudn't do much good at the moment since my RAM is crippled anyway. Really need to replace it but cannot get the same exact sticks these are since the Egg doesn't list them anymore and I'm having to save up the $$'s for it. I will be going for some high-PC rated RAM again for obvious reasons when I do and that's why it's taking so long to replace it. Just bought the wife a new car, had to take a few days off work due to a back problem, ect so I'm having to make do for now and get caught up.


----------



## N2Gaming

Kryton I hope your not to stressed out from all life has thrown at you lately. Heavy work load, new car for wife, yada yada yada. Stress can cause all kinds of pains. The back being one of them. Take care of that spine man you'll need it the rest of you life. Man it sucks when you can't get a good nights sleep due to back pains.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Kryton I hope your not to stressed out from all life has thrown at you lately. Heavy work load, new car for wife, yada yada yada. Stress can cause all kinds of pains. The back being one of them. Take care of that spine man you'll need it the rest of you life. Man it sucks when you can't get a good nights sleep due to back pains.










It's due to a pinched nerve caused by inflamation on the right side of my spine at my lower back. It's not hurting much at all since I had the time to rest and believe I'll make a full recovery. 
Just taking it easy for now and doing as little lifting as possible at work, esp since today was my first day back.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Here's what's on the lid of the chip:
HD720WKF3DGI
CACZC AC 0904DPMW


Kryton, do you have the rest of the information listed right below the stepping? It should be a sequence of numbers. I attached a sample image with the requested area selected in black. The last 5 digits will tell us where the die was cut on the wafer. I'm just wondering if your 4Ghz overclock is the result of a good cut.

Hope your back your feels better









Thanks


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Kryton, do you have the rest of the information listed right below the stepping? It should be a sequence of numbers. I attached a sample image with the requested area selected in black. The last 5 digits will tell us where the die was cut on the wafer. I'm just wondering if your 4Ghz overclock is the result of a good cut.

Hope your back your feels better









Thanks


Here's the rest:
9138756B90144

First off, thanks for the well-wishes guys. Second, I hope that's exactly what I have - A good cut from the wafer. Can you also tell this with info from a 939 chip in the same way?
That may also explain my X2 and 4000+ chips.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Here's the rest:
9138756B*90144*

First off, thanks for the well-wishes guys. Second, I hope that's exactly what I have - A good cut from the wafer. Can you also tell this with info from a 939 chip in the same way?
That may also explain my X2 and 4000+ chips.

Kryton, I believe the same thing can be established for the S939 processors. The above digits indicate that you have potentially a good overclocker. The smaller the number the closer it is from the center of the wafer. These chips usually have better overclocking potential then others. Then again nothing is guaranteed. I can't remember exactly but I think Tator has one close to 90000. HondaGuy has some ridiculous cherry picked chips as well (ie. 90005)


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Here's the rest:
9138756B*90144*

First off, thanks for the well-wishes guys. Second, I hope that's exactly what I have - A good cut from the wafer. Can you also tell this with info from a 939 chip in the same way?
That may also explain my X2 and 4000+ chips.

Not sure if it works for older chips. But your CPU was #144

And usually the lower the better for NB Clocks & RAM clocks.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Kryton, I believe the same thing can be established for the S939 processors. The above digits indicate that you have potentially a good overclocker. The smaller the number the closer it is from the center of the wafer. These chips usually have better overclocking potential then others. Then again nothing is guaranteed. I can't remember exactly but I think Tator has one close to 90000. HondaGuy has some ridiculous cherry picked chips as well (ie. 90005)









My 965BE is a 90007 & my 7750BE is a 90005


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Not sure if it works for older chips. But your CPU was #144

And usually the lower the better for NB Clocks & RAM clocks.

Here's something interesting.

One of my 4000+ chips is 90001 and the other is 90037. Neither of these is the one that went over 3.4GHz.
That one is 60279.

The X2 is 71123.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
One of my 4000+ chips is 90001 and the other is 90037.

Kryton, I'm not ENTIRELY sure if the same applies but I can't imagine why it wouldn't. So the above 4000+ chips were not so great overclockers?


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Kryton, I'm not ENTIRELY sure if the same applies but I can't imagine why it wouldn't. So the above 4000+ chips were not so great overclockers?

Those two are LCBBE 0633 chips and the one that flies is a LCB9E 0643 chip.

I've yet to really push those chips but results on air have shown them to be good, but not as good as the 3.4+ chip.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
My 965BE is a 90007...

*Jealous.*


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
*Jealous.*

I payed a premium and scratched a few backs for that one though


----------



## Fa11ou7

http://cgi.ebay.com/8AL6MDGM-1RDC-4G...item414a6beee2

Does this look like good memory for my 939 build? I know that 32 bit won't register all 4gb but its actually cheaper than 2gb sticks, and 3gb would still be awesome.


----------



## Blitz6804

Unfortunately, you cannot use those DIMMs with your computer. While Opteron processors can use ECC RAM, it must be unregistered ECC; those DIMMs are registered ECC, and almost definitely would not work.


----------



## Fa11ou7

Arghgh I knew it was too good to be true, $50 for 4gb, man that would have been sweet.

ohh well

I forgot I had a class tonight from 6-9 or I would prob have my memtest done by now.

Thanks again Blitz!!

Edit;
I am continually amazed at the levels of understanding when it comes to computers. Most of the people that I know believe that I am a computer guru. I of course know that I'm mentally handicap when compared to guys like you. Yes, I have my computer overclocked now but that was thanks to you guys and as I sit here I wonder how much you guys would laugh if you actually came over to my house and looked at what devious things I did to my bios =D. anyway, really, thanks a lot guys i appreciate all your free tech support.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


I don't know where you are right now in terms of getting your RAM settings squared away but here's something I did earlier with my MSI before my RAM began acting up. 
I'm hoping this will give you an idea how far you could push things but remember I was running PC 16000 RAM when I did this. With the timings I used doing this, yes I was really pushing it at the time.

Maybe this will give you some ideas....


 Very nice. I have been able to push some really nice timings at higher frequencies but the problem that I keep getting is the long run stability. The best RAM OC I had only lasted a little over 4 hours.

I have enough stability to get timings like 6-6-5-18-23-1T and even run some benchmarks. But it fails prime after about an hour, no matter how much voltage I pump through the sticks (2.1v). I didn't make a note of the NB on this particular run however.










Currently I'm testing at 1600 with 8-9-9-25-34-1T @ 1.9v with my NB @ 2640. So far it's 1 hour stable and counting.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fa11ou7*


On my gaming experience so far;
I think my fps is capped at 60 in bioshock because it barely even budges from there. Thats perfectly fine with me because all my settings are on high and rez is at 1920x1200. Last night I loaded Mass effect and had a different experience. I was getting from 20ish to 60 fps depending on what was going on, and the max rez I could enable in game was something like 1280x800. I didn't think it looked all that great, it was certainly playable but not amazing like bioshock.


 First check to see if v-sync is on. It'll lock your frame rate to the monitor refresh rate, which on most is 60Hz which equates to 60FPS.

As for mass effect, I just got it the other day and it seems like the port is not so great. It's locked up on me several times. And that's on a 7.5 hour prime stable overclock.








I even set my settings to stock and it does it so I doubt it's my rig but rather the game. However, Pio has mentioned to me that one of the latest WinXP updates causes stability issues with service pack 3.







I wonder if that's it.


----------



## Fa11ou7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


First check to see if v-sync is on. It'll lock your frame rate to the monitor refresh rate, which on most is 60Hz which equates to 60FPS.


Ohh good catch, I'll check for that tonight, thanks

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


As for mass effect, I just got it the other day and it seems like the port is not so great. It's locked up on me several times. And that's on a 7.5 hour prime stable overclock.








I even set my settings to stock and it does it so I doubt it's my rig but rather the game. However, Pio has mentioned to me that one of the latest WinXP updates causes stability issues with service pack 3.







I wonder if that's it.


I only played it for an hour and I didn't spend much time tweaking the video settings so hopefully it will get a little better with work. It seems very grainy to me, maybe thats becuase it doesnt give me any resolutions above 1200x800. i might try playing it in a window at its actual resolution. As much as I hate playing shooters without a mouse I might just have to borrow my friends xbox 360 copy.


----------



## Blitz6804

Also, Mass Effect does not support Anti-Aliasing.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fa11ou7*


I only played it for an hour and I didn't spend much time tweaking the video settings so hopefully it will get a little better with work. It seems very grainy to me, maybe thats becuase it doesnt give me any resolutions above 1200x800. i might try playing it in a window at its actual resolution. As much as I hate playing shooters without a mouse I might just have to borrow my friends xbox 360 copy.


 Actually Mass Effect does support higher resolutions, it's kind of hidden. When you click on the resolutions tab and the drop down menu appears, to the right of it will be 2 very faint arrows, they look like this but point down >>. At first I thought it only supported 1280x 960 (IIRC) but in fact it does support higher ones. I run it at 1680x1050. 
As for the graininess, I believe that there is a box you can deselect to remove it. Either that or it's a slider that you can adjust for how much grain you want. (I can't remember, been playing so many different games lately, and it seems like all of them have that grain thing on them).


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Very nice. I have been able to push some really nice timings at higher frequencies but the problem that I keep getting is the long run stability. The best RAM OC I had only lasted a little over 4 hours.

I have enough stability to get timings like 6-6-5-18-23-1T and even run some benchmarks. But it fails prime after about an hour, no matter how much voltage I pump through the sticks (2.1v). I didn't make a note of the NB on this particular run however.










Currently I'm testing at 1600 with 8-9-9-25-34-1T @ 1.9v with my NB @ 2640. So far it's 1 hour stable and counting.


Just be careful about the voltage you throw at them. 
That's the same voltage I was using right before they started acting up. I had these just over 900MHz in the CPU-Z tab and after I lowered my settings and voltage to run them at stock speeds, that's when the troubles began.

I've heard from more than one source around the web most DDR3 RAM doesn't tolerate anything over 2.0v's too well and it's suggested to keep them at 1.9v's max unless you have some really good cooling for them. Of course the chips in them is a big factor on this too.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Just be careful about the voltage you throw at them. 
That's the same voltage I was using right before they started acting up. I had these just over 900MHz in the CPU-Z tab and after I lowered my settings and voltage to run them at stock speeds, that's when the troubles began.

I've heard from more than one source around the web most DDR3 RAM doesn't tolerate anything over 2.0v's too well and it's suggested to keep them at 1.9v's max unless you have some really good cooling for them. Of course the chips in them is a big factor on this too.


 My ram is rated @ 1.9v stock, and it does have some nice heat risers (that actually work), and as of late I have added a supplemental 120mm blowing at the RAM and the NB. I added the voltage incrementally, and with each .05v bump it would increase stability for about an hour. But the odd thing is that it wouldn't BSOD, lock up or anything, it would just restart. 
This is the RAM I am running. It's PC15000 @ 1.9v, but I did happen to notice the other day that the rating is @ 2T. I've tried running 2T and it makes absolutely no difference to stability that I have noticed.

And to tell you quite honestly, if you're able to run some pretty tight timings like 6-5-5-15-20-1T @ 1333, it will actually out bandwidth 1600 @ 7-7-7-20-28-1T. So the difference is negligible.

However, asof late I've been reading some good findings with the new C3 stepping chips. Like 3300 NB







and some good clocks. Take a look over at the GD70 club, NCspecv81 has gotten some really good results.

And an update: So far I'm 2 hours stable @ 1600 with 8-9-9-25-34-1T. Once it's done, I'm going to compare my results and see how it stacks up against my lower 1333 runs at much tighter timings.


----------



## eternalenergy311

Sio I just istalled my new WD cavier black 640gb as my OS drive. I am not seeing a ny sort of performance diffrence initially. my old drive was only a 2mb cahe seagate though, so I am expecting something!?!. Maybe i do not have it configured correctly. Any suggestions. BTW, this in my sig rig.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
And an update: So far I'm 2 hours stable @ 1600 with 8-9-9-25-34-1T. Once it's done, I'm going to compare my results and see how it stacks up against my lower 1333 runs at much tighter timings.

BlackOmega, I'm guessing the tighter timings coupled with your NB Freq OC will give you some nice numbers but I could be wrong. Would you be able to give us a comparison via Everest (memory benchmark)?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311* 
Sio I just istalled my new WD cavier black 640gb as my OS drive. I am not seeing a ny sort of performance diffrence initially. my old drive was only a 2mb cahe seagate though, so I am expecting something!?!. Maybe i do not have it configured correctly. Any suggestions. BTW, this in my sig rig.

Eternalenergy311, after finishing the installation of your OS and misc applications did you run a defrag on the drive? When you have time, visit the HDTach website and download the application. Run the _Quick bench (8MB zones)_ test and post up your results. Make sure to not do anything in the OS while the test is running.

Let us know

Good luck


----------



## Fa11ou7

I usually run my games at my screens native resolution of 1900x1200 (28"). Do you think it would be better to use a fixed aspect ratio with black borders in Catalyst and play at a lower resolution? Or maybe just use a lower resolution in general for higher fps and settings.?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fa11ou7*


I usually run my games at my screens native resolution of 1900x1200 (28"). Do you think it would be better to use a fixed aspect ratio with black borders in Catalyst and play at a lower resolution? Or maybe just use a lower resolution in general for higher fps and settings.?


Fa11ou7, I believe a lower resolution would produce better frames per second. A 28" display is quite large. It should also depend on how you have the graphic settings set up ingame and in the Catalyst Control Panel. You'll probably have to play with the settings a bit until you get everything polished out. If I start to see any stutters/lag ect I usually adjust the ingame graphic settings. That always helps. From time to time I'll also lower the resolution. I tend to want to enjoy the gameplay more than the "eyecandy".

Good luck


----------



## philhalo66

OK i finally got it overclocked and its 100% stable
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=820154

25C that's unbelievable


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *philhalo66* 
OK i finally got it overclocked and its 100% stable
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=820154

Philhalo66, great job









I added your updated overclock to the roster. Has your goal been to see how high you can overclock on stock voltage?

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Fa11ou7: When you need to reduce resolutions, try to keep it at your native ratio. That is, when I need to drop from 1920x1200, I consider 1680x1050, 1440x900, or even 1280x800.


----------



## Fa11ou7

Ohh awesome! I didn't even think of that thanks a ton.

I'm a World of Warcraft addict and I started to have real problems running that game with the latest expansion came out. The interesting thing was that my fps didn't change more than a few frames from 1920x1200 down to 1280x800. I would get maybe a 5-10 fps increase at the bottom resolution which is pointless since it looks so bad on a 28" monitor at that point.

Edit;
I'm a recovering addict atm. I canceled my account about a month ago so I could finish up my bachelors degree.... so of course I am now playing all the games I've missed over the last few years, lol.


----------



## Blitz6804

As an addict I likely should not mention this, but World of Warcraft FPS has been crippled on many computers after the latest expansion; most users report a return to FPS by disabling shadows.


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 

Eternalenergy311, after finishing the installation of your OS and misc applications did you run a defrag on the drive? When you have time, visit the HDTach website and download the application. Run the _Quick bench (8MB zones)_ test and post up your results. Make sure to not do anything in the OS while the test is running.

Let us know

Good luck









Actually I cloned the drive using acronis, so fragmentation was low but i did it anyway. i am unable to run the HDtach app on windows 7, is thier a newer version?


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Philhalo66, great job









I added your updated overclock to the roster. Has your goal been to see how high you can overclock on stock voltage?

Good luck


yeah this is an oem motherboard it has 0 integrated overclocking options but i decided to give clockgen a go and bam it worked it surprised me lol and this is a broken motherboard too so I'm even more impressed


----------



## Blitz6804

If you need to adjust voltages, you may be able to do so with CrystalCPUID.


----------



## eternalenergy311

maybe these help?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


Actually I cloned the drive using acronis, so fragmentation was low but i did it anyway. i am unable to run the HDtach app on windows 7, is thier a newer version?


Eternalenergy311, right-click the HDTach executable and go to "Compatibility". Select _run in XP2 Mode_ (should say something similar to that). Let us know if that works. Another application you can try is "HD Tune".

Hope that helps









Quote:



Originally Posted by *philhalo66*


yeah this is an oem motherboard it has 0 integrated overclocking options but i decided to give clockgen a go and bam it worked it surprised me lol and this is a broken motherboard too so I'm even more impressed


Philhalo66, well a 400Mhz overclock is not bad on stock voltage. Great job!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, I'm guessing the tighter timings coupled with your NB Freq OC will give you some nice numbers but I could be wrong. Would you be able to give us a comparison via Everest (memory benchmark)?


 Yep I got some screen shots.

This is at DDR3 1600, timings set to auto,NB @ 2640MHz, CPU @ 3600MHz.










Same settings with 8-8-8-24-32-1T timings.










Same settings, 7-7-7-21-28-1T timings.










Notice there really isn't a huge difference in performance between the 3 other than the L1 cache gets a nice "copy" boost from going to the 8-8-8-24. There's a actually a memory write _decrease_ by going to the 7-7-7-21 settings. And amazingly enough the auto settings had the most L1 READ throughput.


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Eternalenergy311, right-click the HDTach executable and go to "Compatibility". Select _run in XP2 Mode_ (should say something similar to that). Let us know if that works. Another application you can try is "HD Tune".

Hope that helps










Ok, that works. Here it is.


----------



## twowheelmotion

Wanted to post my last "stable" oc before I take Frankenputer down for a while. I'm going to be using some of its parts in my new rig. But don't worry, I plan to scavange some gear and continue using this as my lan box.

My best results so far are a stable oc to 2.55. I ran Prime95 for an hour on the default test and cpu load temp maxed out at 75 C. I know this is high, but this proc was stable for a year of gaming when if often exceeded 80 C (this was before I learned lapping and how to properly install TIM).

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=820770


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:


Originally Posted by *twowheelmotion* 
Wanted to post my last "stable" oc before I take Frankenputer down for a while. I'm going to be using some of its parts in my new rig. But don't worry, I plan to scavange some gear and continue using this as my lan box.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=820770

twowheelmotion,

If you decide to part with those 4 gigs of memory let me know.I have nearly the same mb but I am running Valueram. Cograts on the OC though, I ran that chip in my sig rig before I got the x2 and never had it that high.


----------



## darusezekiel

Well I finally found a 939 socket information forum,
so I've decided to stay with the 939 for a bit..... just to see what it can do.
And not to mention I'm extremely broke and can't afford a new board, CPU,
memory and the whole deal.

But when I do I'm hoping I will have done enough research so I don't regret
my new choice, and since I've now found this place....I really doubt I will.
You all have some great people here, very inventive and full of ideas.

Sorry about rambling, I'll post my CPU-Z validation.....
Hoping to join the group.

I'll be getting a new 939 mobo from a friend soon,
that's whats stopping me at 2700mhz.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=820775


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *darusezekiel* 
Well I finally found a 939 socket information forum,
so I've decided to stay with the 939 for a bit..... just to see what it can do.
And not to mention I'm extremely broke and can't afford a new board, CPU,
memory and the whole deal.

But when I do I'm hoping I will have done enough research so I don't regret
my new choice, and since I've now found this place....I really doubt I will.
You all have some great people here, very inventive and full of ideas.

Sorry about rambling, I'll post my CPU-Z validation.....
Hoping to join the group.

I'll be getting a new 939 mobo from a friend soon,
that's whats stopping me at 2700mhz.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=820775

Welcome Darus. I think part of your problem might be your RAM. Try going for a higher clock with the 2x512 sticks.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Notice there really isn't a huge difference in performance between the 3 other than the L1 cache gets a nice "copy" boost from going to the 8-8-8-24. There's a actually a memory write _decrease_ by going to the 7-7-7-21 settings. And amazingly enough the auto settings had the most L1 READ throughput.


BlackOmega, thanks for the results buddy. Pretty cool stuff. Which sub-timing configuration are you going to stay with? 2640NB Freq is very nice.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


Ok, that works. Here it is.


Eternalenergy311, those average read results are about normal for this drive. Most of the benchmark searches I did on this drive came back with similar results. What are your burst speeds? Do you have the SATA controller set to "AHCI"?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *twowheelmotion*


My best results so far are a stable oc to 2.55. I ran Prime95 for an hour on the default test and cpu load temp maxed out at 75 C. I know this is high, but this proc was stable for a year of gaming when if often exceeded 80 C (this was before I learned lapping and how to properly install TIM).


Twowheelmotion, I updated the roster with your new validation. Keep up the good work.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *darusezekiel*


I'll be getting a new 939 mobo from a friend soon,
that's whats stopping me at 2700mhz.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=820775


Darusezekiel, welcome to the Overclock.net









Woohoo nice to see a single-core overclocked to 2.7Ghz. BlackOmega had a pretty good idea about your memory. Try overclocking with just the DDR-400 sticks installed. Remove the other set of DDR-333 and see if that helps. It's been said that overclocking with more than (2) sticks of memory can be a tad difficult. Reason being more stress is put on the integrated memory controller which can limit your OC.

Keep us updated on the new board

Good luck


----------



## darusezekiel

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Welcome Darus. I think part of your problem might be your RAM. Try going for a higher clock with the 2x512 sticks.


Thank youu, I'm glad to be able to share my fun times with others who enjoy them just as much.
But that's what I will do as soon as I'm up in the morning. And I've actually had her around 2800Mhz but not stable at all. So maybe dropping the extra memory will help steady her out a bit....who knows?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Darusezekiel, welcome to the Overclock.net









Woohoo nice to see a single-core overclocked to 2.7Ghz. BlackOmega had a pretty good idea about your memory. Try overclocking with just the DDR-400 sticks installed. Remove the other set of DDR-333 and see if that helps. It's been said that overclocking with more than (2) sticks of memory can be a tad difficult. Reason being more stress is put on the integrated memory controller which can limit your OC.

Keep us updated on the new board

Good luck


WooooHoooo!!! 
Thanks, I've been going around trying to figure which OC forum to call home.
And I think this is going to be it, OCN has about the best of the best in everything these days.

But I will, tomorrow I'm going to only put the 512's in and maybe even re-flash my BIOS since I haven't EVER rofl.... that could be another problem holding me back a bit? 
After the memory and BIOS what could be doing it besides the Motherboard? Which is my next upgrade in a few days.


----------



## N2Gaming

Oh and welcome to our ever expanding club of 939 lovers.









You could try messing w/your timings and voltages. I don't know what kind of cooling you have in your case but proper cable management may decrese you total system temeratures and that right there can sometimes help stablize higher overclocks. You can run fans over any componants that display heat. i.e. chipset, cpu, VRM's Mosfets Ram GPU's etc etc.

Glad you like it here at OCN.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *darusezekiel*


But I will, tomorrow I'm going to only put the 512's in and maybe even re-flash my BIOS since I haven't EVER rofl.... that could be another problem holding me back a bit? 
After the memory and BIOS what could be doing it besides the Motherboard? Which is my next upgrade in a few days.


Darusezekiel, you may also be at the limit of the processor. I always like to leave that thought for last though. I have a feeling the 512MB (2x512MB) may give you some more OC'ing room. Flashing the bios can also sometimes be beneficial but not always









I'm glad you found the right forum!

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, thanks for the results buddy. Pretty cool stuff. Which sub-timing configuration are you going to stay with? 2640NB Freq is very nice.

Well here is the interesting thing thlnk3r. I was still getting hard lockups regardless of timing or even frequency when playing Mass Effect. Mind you that was on 8 hour prime stable OC's. Well last night I started having some audio issues, like it just flat out not working. So I uninstalled my XFi and am using my onboard again. Well the onboard pretty much sucks and it starts to cut out after a while. Anyway, since removing the XFi I haven't had one lock up. I'm starting to think that something isn't playing nicely together, namely the XFi and the board.

And another odd thing that I've had going on with my audio is since I installed my second GPU it keeps asking for the HDMI driver on the PCI bus (







). Since there is nothing on the PCI bus wth is going on? I've reinstalled the ATi HDMI driver, no change, when the XFi was in, reinstalled all of that too and still no change.









Anyway, at the moment I'm running @ 1333 6-5-5-15-20-1T timings. Gamed on it for a while last night without issue so I have to think that my XFi was behind my instability issues. I wonder why though


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Well last night I started having some audio issues, like it just flat out not working. So I uninstalled my XFi and am using my onboard again. Well the onboard pretty much sucks and it starts to cut out after a while. Anyway, since removing the XFi I haven't had one lock up. I'm starting to think that something isn't playing nicely together, namely the XFi and the board.

BlackOmega, could it possibly be a IRQ conflict or poor drive support? I can't believe you're already having problems with the onboard audio...this is a new board right? Do you experience any issues while running stock settings (no overclock)?

Good luck


----------



## darusezekiel

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Oh and welcome to our ever expanding club of 939 lovers.









You could try messing w/your timings and voltages. I don't know what kind of cooling you have in your case but proper cable management may decrese you total system temeratures and that right there can sometimes help stablize higher overclocks. You can run fans over any componants that display heat. i.e. chipset, cpu, VRM's Mosfets Ram GPU's etc etc.

Glad you like it here at OCN.


I'm attempting to, but my BIOS is terrible with memory OCing.... I'm not a 
pro like most on this forum so somethings I still don't understand or I'm sure I could do something.








I can get to the timings and have changed them from 3-3-3-7 to 2.5-3-3-6,
should change it any more? Any tips on which way would be great. I understand what they each do, but I don't know exactly which way will benefit my OC.

Also I have a Zalman HSF and stock GPU with 4 case fans. Then I have a window A/C mod'd to one outlet so I can put it into the hole in my case. I keeps everything below cold for now. And just installed the MurderMod sleeving. Ohh how I love it!!!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Darusezekiel, you may also be at the limit of the processor. I always like to leave that thought for last though. I have a feeling the 512MB (2x512MB) may give you some more OC'ing room. Flashing the bios can also sometimes be beneficial but not always









I'm glad you found the right forum!

Good luck


Ahh!! I've been trying to avoid that, but I'm starting to thing it is. I've got it to hit 2.8 and be stable on Borderlands and some other games. That was with changing the memory to what I had posted above, but it wasn't stable in Prime95. 
Guess it's time to get a dual core 939.







I'm sure after that and the A8N32-SLI deluxe I'll have plenty of room to play with.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *darusezekiel*


I'm attempting to, but my BIOS is terrible with memory OCing.... I'm not a 
pro like most on this forum so somethings I still don't understand or I'm sure I could do something.








I can get to the timings and have changed them from 3-3-3-7 to 2.5-3-3-6,
should change it any more? Any tips on which way would be great. I understand what they each do, but I don't know exactly which way will benefit my OC.


Darusezekiel, have you tried reading over any of the overclocking guides? Here are a few that I recommend reviewing. Those should answer some of your questions:

http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...ocket-am2.html - Cover's AM2 but the procedures are relative to S939. Make sure to keep your HT Link speed at or below 1000Mhz.
http://icrontic.com/articles/a64_overclocking_theory - Old guide but does cover S939/S754

Hope that helps


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, could it possibly be a IRQ conflict or poor drive support? I can't believe you're already having problems with the onboard audio...this is a new board right? Do you experience any issues while running stock settings (no overclock)?

Good luck

I'll have to check tosee if the audio cuts out at lower speeds. And as far as I can tell it only happens on that one game. I played L4D and the L4D2 demo and CSS with no audio issues whatsoever. However, I didn't play them as long as I did Mass Effect.

Also I do recall seeing some sort of Realtek "Hotfix" somewhere for my board, but I can't for the life of me find it anywhere anymore.

And yeah the board was brand new, not open box or anything.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *darusezekiel* 
I'm attempting to, but my BIOS is terrible with memory OCing.... I'm not a
pro like most on this forum so somethings I still don't understand or I'm sure I could do something.








I can get to the timings and have changed them from 3-3-3-7 to 2.5-3-3-6,
should change it any more? Any tips on which way would be great. I understand what they each do, but I don't know exactly which way will benefit my OC.

Also I have a Zalman HSF and stock GPU with 4 case fans. Then I have a window A/C mod'd to one outlet so I can put it into the hole in my case. I keeps everything below cold for now. And just installed the MurderMod sleeving. Ohh how I love it!!!









Ahh!! I've been trying to avoid that, but I'm starting to thing it is. I've got it to hit 2.8 and be stable on Borderlands and some other games. That was with changing the memory to what I had posted above, but it wasn't stable in Prime95.
Guess it's time to get a dual core 939.







I'm sure after that and the A8N32-SLI deluxe I'll have plenty of room to play with.









Darus, when you changed your timings did you run memtest for at least 4 passes to see if you get any errors? That could potentially be the cause of your Prime95 instability. Also, the command rate plays a larger role in overclocking 939 rigs as opposed to some of the newer tech, it doesn't seem to make any noticeable difference on my AM3 rig.

And if the board you're getting is the A8N32 SLI DLX, you'll have plenty of options in the BIOS to tinker with. They're pretty good boards. I kind of miss mine a little. *sniff* *sniff*


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Also I do recall seeing some sort of Realtek "Hotfix" somewhere for my board, but I can't for the life of me find it anywhere anymore.

BlackOmeg, this might be what you're looking for: http://support.microsoft.com/kb/888111.

Hope that helps


----------



## Fa11ou7

BlackOmgea, i think mass effect is just mass weird. I finally found the 1920x1200 rez and while I didn't have fraps running to grab the frames I swear is is running more smooth and looks great compared to where it was at a lower rez. I was also able to find that stupid gritty effect that was turned on when I was first playing so unchecking that helped a lot.

Just curious, I really like the look and feel of windows 7 do you guys think that my system will be at a disadvantage running it over xp? I can get a full student version for $29.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fa11ou7*


Just curious, I really like the look and feel of windows 7 do you guys think that my system will be at a disadvantage running it over xp? I can get a full student version for $29.


Fa11ou7, I hardly doubt it. Your machine is pretty beefy for that OS. I installed Win 7 Ultimate (testing) on my sig rig and it performed without a hitch.

Good luck


----------



## Fa11ou7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Fa11ou7, I hardly doubt it. Your machine is pretty beefy for that OS. I installed Win 7 Ultimate (testing) on my sig rig and it performed without a hitch.

Good luck

Cool, I guess I was just thinking about vista and how it needed like 2g min to run.

I just got done running ATI overdrive for about an hour and my card went from 750 clock to 840 and 800 mem clock to 900. Its stable at 35C idle and 47C load.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fa11ou7*


Its stable at 35C idle and 47C load.


----------



## JakeM

Can anyone tell me something about this batch/stepping on 3500+

ADA3500DIK4BI
CBBID 0509CPRW
1220064C50085


----------



## BlackOmega

What can I tell you about your 3500+? Well it'll probably clock a hell of a lot better than your Winchester. Has a max temp of 70C @ 1.40v. It's probably a Venice (not sure on that) and it was built in the 9th week (March) of 2005.


----------



## Blitz6804

The ADA3500DIK4BI is supposedly a D0 Winchester.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fa11ou7*


I just got done running ATI overdrive for about an hour and my card went from 750 clock to 840 and 800 mem clock to 900. Its stable at 35C idle and 47C load.


Fa11ou7, have you noticed an improvement in your games? How much more FPS did that OC give you? Nice temps btw


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fa11ou7*


Cool, I guess I was just thinking about vista and how it needed like 2g min to run.

I just got done running ATI overdrive for about an hour and my card went from 750 clock to 840 and 800 mem clock to 900. Its stable at 35C idle and *47C load.*


 Nice temps. My 4870's don't even idle as low as yours loads. My coolest GPU Idles @ 48C.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


The ADA3500DIK4BI is supposedly a D0 Winchester.


 I only did a brief inquiry to it on the AMD page.

Either way it's 400MHz faster than his current CPU. Wonder what the price is on it.


----------



## BlackOmega

O SNAP!!! I think one of my folding rigs died.
















Actually I think it's the PSU swearing: Antec). The lights on the board turn on and when I push the button it "sort of" turns on for a sec, but nothing actually powers up.


----------



## Fa11ou7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Fa11ou7, have you noticed an improvement in your games? How much more FPS did that OC give you? Nice temps btw









I played Mass effect last night for a few hours. Even tho i think we established that it is not a good game to benchmark on I was around 40 frames with everything on ultra high and my rez at 1920x1200. My max temps did get up to around 57C according to ati overdrive. This was after running Mass effect for about 5 hours.


----------



## AMOCO

ok,guy's what's up,I've got this computer (Emachines T6216) that was given to me,Well I thought the motherboard was bad,But it's not.It was the CPU,So I have a Athlon 3700+(2.2) lying around that I had in my Sig Rig for 6 months.Well I put it in the Emachines & now everything runs & looks good,But that CHEZZY CPU cooler,So I think I'm gonna put my Opteron 170 Factory cooler on it
With the CHEZZY cooler,CPU temps are at 60c(Under full load).
See I going to give this to my sister in law,Her computer is just down right worn out.
That Opteron cooler should cool it down,HUH?


----------



## Fa11ou7

Ya the stock amd coolers aren't trash, generally you only need to think about a better heatsink/fan if your overclocking. Even then you don't really have to worry too much unless your doing a high overclock. I think just about everyone would agree that stock fans can usually handle a mild overclock.

If it fits on the board properly then you should be g2g


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
O SNAP!!! I think one of my folding rigs died.
















Actually I think it's the PSU swearing: Antec). The lights on the board turn on and when I push the button it "sort of" turns on for a sec, but nothing actually powers up.

BlackOmega, ouch that stinks. Well this can easily be troubleshooted by swapping out the PSU with another one. Any odd smells from this Antec power supply? I hope nothing else was damaged


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AMOCO* 
ok,guy's what's up,I've got this computer (Emachines T6216) that was given to me,Well I thought the motherboard was bad,But it's not.It was the CPU,So I have a Athlon 3700+(2.2) lying around that I had in my Sig Rig for 6 months.Well I put it in the Emachines & now everything runs & looks good,But that CHEZZY CPU cooler,So I think I'm gonna put my Opteron 170 Factory cooler on it
With the CHEZZY cooler,CPU temps are at 60c(Under full load).
See I going to give this to my sister in law,Her computer is just down right worn out.
That Opteron cooler should cool it down,HUH?

The stock Opteron coolers are seriously great coolers (for being stock). Honestly, I had better temps with the stock Opteron cooler, than I did with a TT BluOrb II in my HTPC. But also though, 60*C under load isn't going to hurt the chip, and if its an OEM board with no overclocking options....then 60*C isn't going to hurt a thing.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, ouch that stinks. Well this can easily be troubleshooted by swapping out the PSU with another one. Any odd smells from this Antec power supply? I hope nothing else was damaged










 I know it. What made me even check it out was my PPD production was WAY down, like down to 3500 points.









SO I check both of my rigs, one is running and folding just fine I just restarted it since it hasn't been restarted for about a month.

Then I check folding rig 2, and everything _seems_ ok. Check the folding log and turns out it has been running non stop since July







. So I updated it and shut it off to clean out some dust off of the heatsinks and fans. Went to power it up and nothing. :swearing:

You think that, that cheapo Dynex PSU would be sufficient to power it? It's only 400w. Maybe I'll just use it for testing to verify that it indeed was the PSU that went out.

EDIT: No there wasn't any funny smells and I didn't see any magic smoke.


----------



## pioneerisloud

It could still be the PSU. My Apevia went without magic smoke or funny smells...and it took half my rig with it.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


You think that, that cheapo Dynex PSU would be sufficient to power it? It's only 400w. Maybe I'll just use it for testing to verify that it indeed was the PSU that went out.


BlackOmega, that should fine. Is this folding rig doing cpu folding or gpu folding?

Btw what model was this Antec PSU? I know a lot of the old units had crummy internals. Very poor quality.

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I can vouch for the quality of AMD's stock coolers.

We once had a "Stock Cooling Only Overclocking Contest" in the Club. I had one mounted on an Opteron, and it performed well enough to get something around 2.8GHz on increased VCore. I wish I could remember what sort of temperatures I observed, but obviously the temperatures weren't so prohibitively high as to impeded my OCing efforts then.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I can vouch for the quality of AMD's stock coolers.

We once had a "Stock Cooling Only Overclocking Contest" in the Club. I had one mounted on an Opteron, and it performed well enough to get something around 2.8GHz on increased VCore. I wish I could remember what sort of temperatures I observed, but obviously the temperatures weren't so prohibitively high as to impeded my OCing efforts then.


I was able to run somewhere between 3.0-3.2GHz on my Opty with the stock cooler







.


----------



## thlnk3r

Joe, man speaking of contests we haven't had one in so long. Phenom II OC'ing using stock S939 coolers


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I was able to run somewhere between 3.0-3.2GHz on my Opty with the stock cooler







.


Few S939ers are as daring as you, pio!

I think only Kryton can match you for daring.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Few S939ers are as daring as you, pio!

I think only Kryton can match you for daring.










I think Kryton passes me. I've only hit a measly 3.36GHz with mine.


----------



## Hueristic

Antec had a year of substandard ps units but have since recovered. RMA if you can. they replaced my 650 with a 750 and I love it.


----------



## N2Gaming

Those stock opteron HSF coolers are the same ones that come w/the Ph II x4 940's correct? I used one of those for testing recently and it was pretty good cooler. Not as good as my zalman but never the less it got the job done.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Those stock opteron HSF coolers are the same ones that come w/the Ph II x4 940's correct? I used one of those for testing recently and it was pretty good cooler. Not as good as my zalman but never the less it got the job done.










I'm not sure if they are, to be honest. I've yet to open up my PhII X4 965BE's box.









@ thlnk3r: Yeah, it's been too long since we've had a Club contest. I wish I had enough time to work on that, on top of everything else going on right now.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I'm not sure if they are, to be honest. I've yet to open up my PhII X4 965BE's box.










The 965BE have the Heatpipe cooler with them.


----------



## N2Gaming

as did my x4 940... My Opty 180 was OEM from Tiger like Omega's. So I don't know what kind of coolers the opty's came with. I was under the impression the opty's had heap pipe coolers.


----------



## Fa11ou7

How does an opteron 165 compare to a newer dual core CPU if say the Opty is OC'd stable at 3ghz? Obviously there will be more room to OC a newer CPU since they all start around 2.8 now. I'm just curious about what I could do with my current setup since BlackO posted a couple pages back about a newer 939 mobo.


----------



## Blitz6804

A K8 is a K8. A Denmark will tie (or beat) a Windsor clock-for-clock. A Denmark will actually slightly edge out over a Brisbane clock-for-clock given the lower cache on the Brisbane, but the Brisbane will (on average) clock higher. If you have a K8 that can do at least 2.8 GHz, you should not upgrade to AM2+/AM3 unless you get at least a tri-core generally.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
A K8 is a K8. A Denmark will tie (or beat) a Windsor clock-for-clock. A Denmark will actually slightly edge out over a Brisbane clock-for-clock given the lower cache on the Brisbane, but the Brisbane will (on average) clock higher. If you have a K8 that can do at least 2.8 GHz, you should not upgrade to AM2+/AM3 unless you get at least a tri-core generally.

Or one of the new Phenom II or Athlon II dualies too. They're usually able to reach 4.0GHz from what it looks like.

If you were to be going for a new rig, and you'd end up settling for a regular old Athlon X2 dual core...just stick with 939 as there's no difference at all honestly.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I think Kryton passes me. I've only hit a measly 3.36GHz with mine.


You rang Pio?









I've been using one of my 939 Opty coolers with my X3 and it does perform well - Well enough to let me do what I've done with it so far.

I believe it's probrably one of the best, most versatle "Stock" coolers ever made since it can also be used with a 754 and I believe an AM2.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Yeah, it's been too long since we've had a Club contest. I wish I had enough time to work on that, on top of everything else going on right now.










http://www.overclock.net/overclock-n...aquamark3.html


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
http://www.overclock.net/overclock-n...aquamark3.html









If I were able to participate, I could do some damage in that.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


It could still be the PSU. My Apevia went without magic smoke or funny smells...and it took half my rig with it.


 Well that's the odd thing, I plug my monitor in to it and it's working just fine it seems. Video and everything is there. I installed the updates it had pending (since July) and restart. That went off without a hitch. Then I shut her down for cleaning. Of course I grounded myself, and the only thing I physically removed from the rig was the CPU fan.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, that should fine. Is this folding rig doing cpu folding or gpu folding?

Btw what model was this Antec PSU? I know a lot of the old units had crummy internals. Very poor quality.

Good luck


 Both of my rigs do just GPU folding due to the PPD loss when doing both.

The Antec is an SP500 2.0, 80 certified IIRC.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Antec had a year of substandard ps units but have since recovered. RMA if you can. they replaced my 650 with a 750 and I love it.


Well the thing is almost 5 years old, I wonder what their warranty is.







I thought it was only 3 years and you had to have your original receipt.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Those stock opteron HSF coolers are the same ones that come w/the Ph II x4 940's correct? I used one of those for testing recently and it was pretty good cooler. Not as good as my zalman but never the less it got the job done.










 The 939 Opty cooler looks very similar but it in fact is different than the ones that come with the PHII quads. And yeah my Opty cooler worked wonders especially with that Tornado fan I stuck on there. Still not good enough to cool any decent overclock with bearable ambient temps.


----------



## Blitz6804

Why can you not? Too busy?


----------



## BlackOmega

Ok so a little update as to my Folding rig.

I was going to swap the Dynex in but realized it only has a 20 pin connector, :swearing: so that was a no go. 
Well I decided since I have it all apart I might as well do some diag on it. So I stripped it down to only 2 sticks in the orange slots, 1 GPU and only the HDD and CPU fan, and of course the floppy and molex on the board. 
What do ya know, it fired right up. Got in to the BIOS and everything seems kosher. F10 save and exit, goes through its self check and right about when Windows is supposed to load, it trying to "Detect Array"







. So I go back in to the BIOS surely enough the RAID function is not even enabled.







So I go to reboot it again and it does the same thing. 
So I decided to let it try to detect the array. Well a few minutes later and still nothing.

At any rate, I did notice that the exhaust fan which is powered by the mobo and the PSU fan kind of pulsate instead of running at 1 speed. So I still think that the PSU is on the fritz. 
I'm going to have to swap it in to my other rig and see if it works the way it's supposed to or not.


----------



## thlnk3r

BlackOmega, it almost sounds like the PSU is half dead! Though I can't explain why the array is not showing up. Only thing I can think of is a low voltage cmos battery (settings not saving properly after reboots) but I doubt that.

Let us know if the other one works


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, it almost sounds like the PSU is half dead! Though I can't explain why the array is not showing up. Only thing I can think of is a low voltage cmos battery (settings not saving properly after reboots) but I doubt that.

Let us know if the other one works










 Yeah it's pretty weird. And the thing is, there is no array. It's a single drive rig. And RAID is disabled through BIOS. Man I wish I had another PCP&C 610. That's the perfect PSU for the way my rigs are setup.


----------



## kwint

Built from recycle. Looking for an opteron and upgraded cooling next. Gonna see how far I can take one.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kwint* 









Built from recycle. Looking for an opteron and upgraded cooling next. Gonna see how far I can take one.

Welcome and not bad for a recycled chip!
You may want to drop your HTT multiplier - Never let your HT link speed go over 1000MHz if you can help it with a 939 chip.


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


The stock Opteron coolers are seriously great coolers (for being stock). Honestly, I had better temps with the stock Opteron cooler, than I did with a TT BluOrb II in my HTPC. But also though, 60*C under load isn't going to hurt the chip, and if its an OEM board with no overclocking options....then 60*C isn't going to hurt a thing.



ok,thanks pioneer.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Yeah it's pretty weird. And the thing is, there is no array. It's a single drive rig. And RAID is disabled through BIOS. Man I wish I had another PCP&C 610. That's the perfect PSU for the way my rigs are setup.

BlackOmega, my bad I think I misunderstood you. I thought this rig was running Raid. If that is not the case then wow that is strange. Did you check the voltage on the CMOS battery just to make sure it's within spec?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kwint* 









Built from recycle. Looking for an opteron and upgraded cooling next. Gonna see how far I can take one.

Kwint, welcome to Overclock.net









Great job on the overclock. I've added you to the roster with your OC results!

Good luck


----------



## Xyro TR1

Holy crapiola, this thread has gotten long...

I'm still awaiting the re-arrival of my Opty 180 that I posted about over 1000 pages ago. I do miss S939.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1* 
Holy crapiola, this thread has gotten long...

I'm still awaiting the re-arrival of my Opty 180 that I posted about over 1000 pages ago. I do miss S939.

I miss my Opty, lol. My parent's keep it cold enough in this house, I could do some serious suicide runs with that thing. Best I've done with the rig in my sig has been 3.8GHz (didn't bother for validation though).


----------



## Xyro TR1

When I eventually get the 180 back, it'll become a OC-ing/folding rig.

Speaking of... d'you still have the ABIT board?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1* 
When I eventually get the 180 back, it'll become a OC-ing/folding rig.

Speaking of... d'you still have the ABIT board?

I don't know for sure. I still HAD it when I put it in my storage unit, but they keep sending me letters threatening to put everything in it up for public auction...so I don't know if I have anything left.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I don't know for sure. I still HAD it when I put it in my storage unit, but they keep sending me letters threatening to put everything in it up for public auction...so I don't know if I have anything left.


Ouch... Is the storage too far away from your home?

So I'm definitely thinking of doing some Aquamark3 runs, who's with me?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Ouch... Is the storage too far away from your home?

So I'm definitely thinking of doing some Aquamark3 runs, who's with me?


No, its only about 10 minutes away. The problem is that I have no money to pay it...so I owe them over $260 right now







. And it keeps going up every month too







.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, my bad I think I misunderstood you. I thought this rig was running Raid. If that is not the case then wow that is strange. Did you check the voltage on the CMOS battery just to make sure it's within spec?

I'll check the battery. IIRC I went through and put all new energizer/Durcell batteries in all my boards. Who knows could've missed it.

I'm sure I'll get around to swapping out the boards sometime this weekend.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
So I'm definitely thinking of doing some Aquamark3 runs, who's with me?

I'd be down if I had it.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


So I'm definitely thinking of doing some Aquamark3 runs, who's with me?


I was going too until he said peops with PHII's could disable cores and compete in X2 bracket.


----------



## Blitz6804

On the flip side Hueristic, people with x2/x3s could theoretically unlock no? Could I disable three cores and run as a single? In any event, I cannot figure out how to disable a core of an HD 4870x2, so I am out anyway.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


On the flip side Hueristic, people with x2/x3s could theoretically unlock no? Could I disable three cores and run as a single? In any event, I cannot figure out how to disable a core of an HD 4870x2, so I am out anyway.


Blitz6804, I do know for the 550BE if the fourth or third core is faulty you can run the processor as a tri-core. Here's a post that discusses this: http://www.overclock.net/7078242-post1451.html.


----------



## eternalenergy311

so what do u guys use...ready to see how the sig rig actually compares to other S939 rigs. running passmark now but it doesn't seem very "globally" recognized. input please?


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311* 
so what do u guys use...ready to see how the sig rig actually compares to other S939 rigs. running passmark now but it doesn't seem very "globally" recognized. input please?

I'd say Futuremark's 3DMark06 and 3DMark Vantage are the most common gaming benchmarks. SuperPi is another program commonly used but some say that it favors intel processors too much to be a fair test.

http://www.overclock.net/benchmarkin...re-discussion/
Check out the benchmarking section, you'll probably find more info there if you haven't already done so.


----------



## Name Change

Just got a Socket 939 3700+ Sandy given to me, so far up to 3014mhz 1.5v. Hopefully can get it to 3.1ghz if i'm lucky.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=826538


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
I was going too until he said peops with PHII's could disable cores and compete in X2 bracket.

Wait, really? That's not cool...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Name Change* 
Just got a Socket 939 3700+ Sandy given to me, so far up to 3014mhz 1.5v. Hopefully can get it to 3.1ghz if i'm lucky.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=826538

Name Change, great job dude









I added this OC next to your other one on the roster. Keep it up!


----------



## Name Change

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Name Change, great job dude









I added this OC next to your other one on the roster. Keep it up!


Thx mate. Runs perfectly stable so far at 3.0ghz.


----------



## vishavs

Hey, i was told this would be the place to get help overclocking my AMD 64 3500+ Venice. The low down is that i need to get the best stable performance with stock heatsink and cooling. I would really appreciate some expert opinions, im fairly new to oc'in

ps. Didnt mean to call you lazy, sorry


----------



## N2Gaming

vishavs, Have you looked up or read up on any overclocking guides. OCN has several really good guides. Your Retail HSF is not going to be very good for overclocking but the most important thing you need to consider is temperatures for your cpu/ram/NB & SB chipsets along w/the VRM's or Mosfets on the mobo. Chassis cooling or airflow could play a big role in how well your cpu and overall system temps remain under safe levels while overclocking. I would read up on some overclocking guides and then ask questions you may have if you don't understand what the guides are teaching you.

Or you could ask more specific questions as to how to do one thing in paticular. Don't be lazy and read up on some overclocking guides.








Quote:



Originally Posted by *vishavs*


Hey, i was told this would be the place to get help overclocking my AMD 64 3500+ Venice. if you are *NOT* to lazy *TO HELP*


----------



## BlackOmega

Vishav, you're not going to get any sort of decent overclock with the stock heatsink. Because as much voltage as those things need to OC you'd be lucky if you could maintain _maybe_ a 200MHz OC depending on your ambient temps. Granted no 2 CPU are alike but my 3500+ took a lot of voltage to OC. As a matter of fact I've run 1.90v through it.


----------



## kwint

Can't get the 4400 to be stable! NEEDS MOAR COOLINGZ!! Some thermal compound at the least. Grr, no job, and I'm broke. Oh well, can't complain since it was free. Why are 939 boards the same price as am2 boards?!?!?

Does anyone know where I can get a i/o shield for a bfg tech/chaintech nforce4 ultra? I'm also looking for the sli version of this mobo.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kwint*


Can't get the 4400 to be stable! NEEDS MOAR COOLINGZ!! Some thermal compound at the least. Grr, no job, and I'm broke. Oh well, can't complain since it was free. Why are 939 boards the same price as am2 boards?!?!?

Does anyone know where I can get a i/o shield for a bfg tech/chaintech nforce4 ultra? I'm also looking for the sli version of this mobo.


 Yeah when ocing cooling is a MUST. With my Opty 165 and 180 I tried using the stock Opty heat sink (has heatpipes). I even put on a 90CFM fan, while the fan definitely helped all of the temps (including motherboard and the MOSFETs), but I was still not able to get any sort of decent overclock out of it. Not to mention the noise that little fan made was out of control I believe it's in the 60dB range.

Look on eBay for an I/O shield or contact the manufacturer.

I wonder if your board is SLI modable.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Yeah when ocing cooling is a MUST. With my Opty 165 and 180 I tried using the stock Opty heat sink (has heatpipes). I even put on a 90CFM fan, while the fan definitely helped all of the temps (including motherboard and the MOSFETs), but I was still not able to get any sort of decent overclock out of it. Not to mention the noise that little fan made was out of control I believe it's in the 60dB range.

Look on eBay for an I/O shield or contact the manufacturer.

* I wonder if your board is SLI modable.*










If it has 2x PCIe slots, it is. Don't you remember seeing that SLI on a crossfire mobo hack? All it requires is that you have 2x PCIe slots.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


If it has 2x PCIe slots, it is. Don't you remember seeing that SLI on a crossfire mobo hack? All it requires is that you have 2x PCIe slots.


 I read something vaguely about it, I was at school so I couldn't actually read how or what they did, just that they did it. Hell even eclipse over at the gd70 club has done it. He wasn't allowed to post because of some sort of infringement or some crap.

And also you must remember the difference on the NF4 chipset, the pins have to be jumpered on the NB. It needs to be soldered. Pencil mod usually doesn't work. It gets a connection but the signal isn't strong enough.

And from what eclipse said, getting it to work was a pain in the ass. He had to re-install.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I read something vaguely about it, I was at school so I couldn't actually read how or what they did, just that they did it. Hell even eclipse over at the gd70 club has done it. He wasn't allowed to post because of some sort of infringement or some crap.

And also you must remember the difference on the NF4 chipset, the pins have to be jumpered on the NB. It needs to be soldered. Pencil mod usually doesn't work. It gets a connection but the signal isn't strong enough.

And from what eclipse said, getting it to work was a pain in the ass. He had to re-install.


Like I said, you wouldn't need to do the SLI Pencil mod or jumper, or whatever. Just so long as there's 2 PCIe x16 slots, you CAN have SLI. I just don't remember where I saw the tutorials at.


----------



## BlackOmega

It was posted on here not too long ago. It was some sort of Russian hack IIRC.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


It was posted on here not too long ago. It was some sort of Russian hack IIRC.


http://xdevs.com/e107_plugins/conten...php?content.30

there you go. Hax rite dar


----------



## kwint

Well, I need this to last regardless. Has anyone tried the 2.99 thermal paste on ebay? I was reading feedback and some were reporting lower core temps. One reported a peak temp dropping from 70 to 54.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kwint* 
Well, I need this to last regardless. Has anyone tried the 2.99 thermal paste on ebay? I was reading feedback and some were reporting lower core temps. One reported a peak temp dropping from 70 to 54.

This was most likely due to an improperly seated heat sink.

Your best bet is to get something like OCZ freeze or IC Diamond 7. Those 2 thermal pastes are very good. I personally prefer ICDiamond 7 over OCZ but they're both better than Arctic Silver 5.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kwint* 
Well, I need this to last regardless. Has anyone tried the 2.99 thermal paste on ebay? I was reading feedback and some were reporting lower core temps. One reported a peak temp dropping from 70 to 54.

Kwint, are you referring to the "ZP" compound here? I'd check the notes on that compound:

Quote:

*I do NOT recommend this compound for those overclocking their CPUs or GPUs*. I would recommend Shin Etsu or AS5 over a basic thermal compound for systems trying to edge every spec of performance they can from their system.
It doesn't look like it's meant for what you're trying to accomplish. If $2.99 is all you have to spend at the moment then pick up some Shin Etsu. Spend a few more bucks and you can get some AS5.

I hope you are referring to the thermal compound on Ebay that is for $2.99 LOL if not then you and I are on a different page









Good luck buddy


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


http://xdevs.com/e107_plugins/conten...php?content.30

there you go. Hax rite dar


 Thanks you very much sir......but after reading that something dawned on me........I have 4 9600 GSO's and a 4 PCIe slot board.......Quad SLI anyone?
You think there would eb an issue if 2 of the cards are 384MB and the other 2 are 768MB?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Thanks you very much sir......but after reading that something dawned on me........I have 4 9600 GSO's and a 4 PCIe slot board.......Quad SLI anyone?
You think there would eb an issue if 2 of the cards are 384MB and the other 2 are 768MB?


Only GTX285 & GTX295 can do Quad-SLi. (EVGA Only for the GTX285, as it's a special edition.)

Though, You can run almost any 4 ATi GPU's in Quad-Fire









But SLi requires a physical interconnect between GPU's (the SLi bridge) while Crossfire does not.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Only GTX285 & GTX295 can do Quad-SLi. (EVGA Only for the GTX285, as it's a special edition.)

Though, You can run almost any 4 ATi GPU's in Quad-Fire









But SLi requires a physical interconnect between GPU's (the SLi bridge) while Crossfire does not.


 Damn nvidia! Oh well it would've been nice to see what 4 of those cards could do. 
And I do have bridges, I wonder if the crossfire ones are any different than the SLI ones.


----------



## darusezekiel

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Darusezekiel, have you tried reading over any of the overclocking guides? Here are a few that I recommend reviewing. Those should answer some of your questions:

http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...ocket-am2.html - Cover's AM2 but the procedures are relative to S939. Make sure to keep your HT Link speed at or below 1000Mhz.
http://icrontic.com/articles/a64_overclocking_theory - Old guide but does cover S939/S754

Hope that helps










Wow that helped a lot, I learned so much I had no idea even existed. And how the buses and clocks work together is just insane, no wonder I've been getting so many failed test on Prime. 
But it comes down to the fact that I need a more "up to date" proc and board to have some fun and gain some high % overclocks.
















So I've decided this week I'll order a new 939 x2 off ebay (not sure which model), I want at least a 2.4. When it comes, I'll run to my buddies and get the new board.









Until then, I'm gonna try to push this single core a bit further.

I've ran into quite a problem though.......
It seems I can't change my HT multi, that's what is keeping me unstable. My HT link is 1125MHZ while I have my CPU clocked to 2.7.
If anyone has an idea how to change the HT multi, that would be amazing.

Thank you guys so much once again, I'm more than glad I found this great forum.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *darusezekiel*


I've ran into quite a problem though.......
It seems I can't change my HT multi, that's what is keeping me unstable. My HT link is 1125MHZ while I have my CPU clocked to 2.7.
If anyone has an idea how to change the HT multi, that would be amazing.


Darusezekiel, I'm glad to hear the guides helped out









In regards to changing your HT multiplier, in your bios check in Advanced -> CPU Configuration -> _Hyper Transport Frequency_. The options available should be [Auto], [1x], [2x], [3x], [4x] and [5x]. Let us know if that helped.

Good luck finding a dual-core S939!


----------



## kwint

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Kwint, are you referring to the "ZP" compound here? I'd check the notes on that compound:
It doesn't look like it's meant for what you're trying to accomplish. If $2.99 is all you have to spend at the moment then pick up some


Yeah that's the one I was talking about. There are a bunch of different variations. I just might pick it up to see if I can get lower temps on stock speeds/voltages. Even a 5 degree decrease would be nice for 3 bucks. Pretty sure some people have spent more and gotten patchier results.


----------



## darusezekiel

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Darusezekiel, I'm glad to hear the guides helped out









In regards to changing your HT multiplier, in your bios check in Advanced -> CPU Configuration -> _Hyper Transport Frequency_. The options available should be [Auto], [1x], [2x], [3x], [4x] and [5x]. Let us know if that helped.

Good luck finding a dual-core S939!


Whew that changed a lot of things, now my max Bus speed is 250mhz(from
225)...so that gives me some room to play with other things. But I'm gonna
call it a night I guess. It's 5:30AM here lol I need some sleep.









But no doubt I'll be posted here tomorrow with some more news.









Oh Ohhhh before I forget, a fellow OCN member and me are working out a
deal to get me a dual core 939S and maybe even some Corsair XMS RAM to
put in the new board.









Maybe I can read around here enough, and start a build log. I've been
wanting to do my own modded water cooling system, maybe this is where it
begins.


----------



## kwint

Quote:

Whew that changed a lot of things, now my max Bus speed is 250mhz(from
225)...so that gives me some room to play with other things. But I'm gonna
call it a night I guess. It's 5:30AM here lol I need some sleep.

But no doubt I'll be posted here tomorrow with some more news.

Oh Ohhhh before I forget, a fellow OCN member and me are working out a
deal to get me a dual core 939S and maybe even some Corsair XMS RAM to
put in the new board.

If it helps, I declocked my ram to run at 166, and set my freq. to 240x10, and it my ram speed was at 200 (non ddr). Idk how I managed that. That was on stock timings.

TBH, i don't quite understand everything yet either. I don't get the ram timing deal, and how it can change the speed, or how your frequency changes the ram speed either.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Damn nvidia! Oh well it would've been nice to see what 4 of those cards could do. 
And I do have bridges, I wonder if the crossfire ones are any different than the SLI ones.










Physically yes they are.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Crossfire does not.


Since when? When I had my HD 3850 Crossfire it would tell me it could not enable when there was no bridge installed. Is this an HD 48xx series thing, as I have never tried running CrossfireX without a bridge.


----------



## WarriorSl

Mine








http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=829326


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Since when? When I had my HD 3850 Crossfire it would tell me it could not enable when there was no bridge installed. Is this an HD 48xx series thing, as I have never tried running CrossfireX without a bridge.

It's referred to as Software CrossfireX

This Chart (official AMD/ATi one) will show you which cards require a connector and which do not.

The lower end ones like:
HD2400 Pro
HD2400Xt
HD3450
HD3470
HD2600 Pro
HD2600 Xt
HD3650
HD3670
HD4330
HD4350
HD4550
HD4650

Don't require a Crossfire bridge to be used.

HD4670 + HD4650 Crossfire doesn't require a bridge either, but HD4670 + HD4670 does.

Also, all of those GPU's can be used in Hybrid CrossfireX with the appropriate chipset IGP.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *darusezekiel*


Oh Ohhhh before I forget, a fellow OCN member and me are working out a
deal to get me a dual core 939S and maybe even some Corsair XMS RAM to
put in the new board.

Maybe I can read around here enough, and start a build log. I've been
wanting to do my own modded water cooling system, maybe this is where it
begins.


Darusezekiel, sounds like a plan buddy. What dual-core S939 are you looking at?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WarriorSl*


Mine
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=829326


WarriorSl, welcome to OCN and the S939 club









I updated the roster and inputted your name and cpu-z entry. Major props to you for the 3200+ OC! I have a two 3200+ processors that are horrible OC'ers. Literally like 100Mhz MAX haha

Good luck guys


----------



## Kryton

Guys, I know this isn't 939 related but I have to show you this CPU-Z validation run I pulled off earlier today.
This from a 754 chip?








http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=828506


----------



## darusezekiel

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Darusezekiel, sounds like a plan buddy. What dual-core S939 are you looking at?

Good luck guys


Black Omega has a Opteron 180 2.4 that I'm gonna get this Thursday, and 
4G(4x1G) Corsair XMS RAM.

For the WC setup, I'm going to try and put my rad and res in a old PC case,
then run my AC vent to the case so the water gets very cold from the air....
then circulates through the loops.









Any tips would be lovely, since I'm walking on some new grounds here.
I'm not really worried about ruining things from the water, I just want it to be
worth the time I spend you know?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Guys, I know this isn't 939 related but I have to show you this CPU-Z validation run I pulled off earlier today.
This from a 754 chip?








http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=828506



















































:a pplaud:


----------



## kwint

Is that inside a laptop?


----------



## Blitz6804

Probably not kwint. However, in those days, the Mobile chips were hand-selected versions of the desktop processors because they needed to do similar speeds on sub-stock voltages for heat reasons. It would follow then if you take one of these cherry chips and put the voltage to stock, you should be able to heartily overclock. Overvolt, and the possibilities are nearly endless, as Kryton proves time and again.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Probably not kwint. However, in those days, the Mobile chips were hand-selected versions of the desktop processors because they needed to do similar speeds on sub-stock voltages for heat reasons. It would follow then if you take one of these cherry chips and put the voltage to stock, you should be able to heartily overclock. Overvolt, and the possibilities are nearly endless, as Kryton proves time and again.

Don't remind me







. Anybody happen to know if there's a mobile Socket 939 chip that would be equal to an Opty then?


----------



## Blitz6804

AMD stopped sharing sockets between mobile and desktop with Socket 939 and Socket S1. Prior to that, both sectors used Socket 754.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *darusezekiel*


Black Omega has a Opteron 180 2.4 that I'm gonna get this Thursday, and 
4G(4x1G) Corsair XMS RAM.

For the WC setup, I'm going to try and put my rad and res in a old PC case,
then run my AC vent to the case so the water gets very cold from the air....
then circulates through the loops.









Any tips would be lovely, since I'm walking on some new grounds here.
I'm not really worried about ruining things from the water, I just want it to be
worth the time I spend you know?


My tip is this.

Keep your water loops as short as possible so your pump does not have to work as hard to push water through it.
in your loop put your reservoir befor your pump and then send the water from there to the rad and then to the cpu back to the res. So Pump/Rad/CPU/Res/Pump.
Enjoy your overclocking


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


AMD stopped sharing sockets between mobile and desktop with Socket 939 and Socket S1. Prior to that, both sectors used Socket 754.


Yeah I know. Lol, there's no way in hell I'm going to find another golden chip like my Opty was again.


----------



## Tator Tot

Hey Blitz did you catch my info on the Software Crossfire? I posted earlier


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah I did Tator, I completely forget about the mainstream and budget brackets sometimes.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Yeah I did Tator, I completely forget about the mainstream and budget brackets sometimes.


I'm quite excited for the HD5000 sub $100 cards to see how well they perform.

ATi's been sealing sub $100 bracket for a few years now. So I want to see if we get some nice performance out of that bracket.


----------



## kwint

I have a bunch of 754 motherboards laying around and only one processor. Hmmm, might have to put one together...short on ram tho...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Guys, I know this isn't 939 related but I have to show you this CPU-Z validation run I pulled off earlier today. 
This from a 754 chip?








http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=828506


Kryton, great job man









Too bad we don't have a S754 roster because I'd definitely post this one up! Do you have all the details listed on the IHS? I wonder if the last few digits have any significant meaning as they do with today's Phenom II processors


----------



## N2Gaming

Thnlk3r I find it interestingly funny how the AM3 cpu enthusiast's like Honda, inform us on one little thing and it makes us seek out reasons for other cpu's that can be great or dudly overclockers.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thnlk3r I find it interestingly funny how the AM3 cpu enthusiast's like Honda, inform us on one little thing and it makes us seek out reasons for other cpu's that can be great or dudly overclockers.










N2Gaming, I need to recheck my 3200+ processors but if I remember right those procs had some pretty big numbers at the end which may explain why I can't even overclock them passed 200Mhz


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, I need to recheck my 3200+ processors but if I remember right those procs had some pretty big numbers at the end which may explain why I can't even overclock them passed 200Mhz










 Well my 3500+ ends in 52340 so it may by similar. It OC's really shady as well. Then again I never ran 1.9v through it.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Well my 3500+ ends in 52340 so it may by similar. It OC's really shady as well. Then again I never ran 1.9v through it.










N2Gaming, wow well perhaps the same applies for the S939 processors









For the 1.9volt testing.......well I'll leave that up to Kryton.


----------



## kwint

Grrr, my stock speed idle temps are 36-40 now. ***...

Edit: nvm, i guess all that restarting made it higher. Got a somewhat better stock heatsink and fan set up now. However, bios settings are not applying to system usage. No matter what the multiplier, it still runs at either 11x or 9x. FUUUGGGG


----------



## Blitz6804

kwint: In my experience, you need to wait about 5-15 minutes after reboot to resume "idle" temperatures. Also, if the BIOS is not letting you change the multiplier, ensure you have disabled Cool 'n' Quiet. With the exception of my current DFI Lanparty DK 790FX-M2RS* no motherboard I have had will let you change the multiplier while Cool 'n' Quiet is enabled.

*And even then, the DFI has only supported it starting with the July BIOS update, some 18 months after the board launched.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Kryton, great job man









Too bad we don't have a S754 roster because I'd definitely post this one up! Do you have all the details listed on the IHS? I wonder if the last few digits have any significant meaning as they do with today's Phenom II processors










I'll post those up once I remove it. It's also a naked core chip so there's no IHS to worry about - 754 Mobile chips to my knowlege were all naked core chips.

If I could put 1.9V to it, I'd be willing give it a try.








BIOS only gives me 1.85v's to use.

Kwint, what model MB's do you have?


----------



## Blitz6804

Interested in trying a hardware mod to increase the voltage Kryton?


----------



## kwint

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


kwint: In my experience, you need to wait about 5-15 minutes after reboot to resume "idle" temperatures. Also, if the BIOS is not letting you change the multiplier, ensure you have disabled Cool 'n' Quiet. With the exception of my current DFI Lanparty DK 790FX-M2RS* no motherboard I have had will let you change the multiplier while Cool 'n' Quiet is enabled.


I disabled cool n quiet and disabled the center spread spectrum, and it still reads at 11x or 9x even if I set it to 10.

Quote:



Kwint, what model MB's do you have?


BFG tech/Chaintech VNF4 Ultra. I'm starting to believe the mobo is bad. Bios reads cpu temps at like 0-5 degrees C. May have to switch over to this oem set up i have laying around.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kwint*


I disabled cool n quiet and disabled the center spread spectrum, and it still reads at 11x or 9x even if I set it to 10.


Kwint, after manually making those changes try hitting (if available) "F10". That should immediately save those settings. After you do that go back in and verify.

Good luck


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kwint*


I disabled cool n quiet and disabled the center spread spectrum, and it still reads at 11x or 9x even if I set it to 10.

BFG tech/Chaintech VNF4 Ultra. I'm starting to believe the mobo is bad. Bios reads cpu temps at like 0-5 degrees C. May have to switch over to this oem set up i have laying around.


sorry, I don't remember if you mentioned if you have the latest bios. Doing a quick search came up with a bios update needed for full X2 support. So hopefully that's your issue.

Ohh and The DFI showed up today! W00t! Unfortunately I have to finish the tile work and reclaim my counter before I can mess with it.


----------



## Blitz6804

kwint: Check if CnQ actually was disabled. In Windows 7, open Power Options in the control panel, open your current power plan, and check if "Processor Power Management" is an option. If it is, the BIOS did not disable CnQ. If not, you are good to go.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
sorry, I don't remember if you mentioned if you have the latest bios. Doing a quick search came up with a bios update needed for full X2 support. So hopefully that's your issue.

Ohh and The DFI showed up today! W00t! Unfortunately I have to finish the tile work and reclaim my counter before I can mess with it.

Good, You just save me from looking it up online to see it's status of delivery. You'll prolly be pretty bussy for a while setting up the new hardware.







If you ever finish w/your counter.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Good, You just save me from looking it up online to see it's status of delivery. You'll prolly be pretty bussy for a while setting up the new hardware.

















Yeah It took me 1/2 an hour to unwrap it! Like Scotch tape much!








I really wanted to get going on it but My counter is almost done and if I stop it will never get done. Jump on X-fire.
Ohh you got link to the manual? yes i know how to google!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 







Yeah It took me 1/2 an hour to unwrap it! Like Scotch tape much!








I really wanted to get going on it but My counter is almost done and if I stop it will never get done. Jump on X-fire.
Ohh you got link to the manual? yes i know how to google!

There is a manual on the Driver disk I burned for you. The one that says DFI 32 bit.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


There is a manual on the Driver disk I burned for you. The one that says DFI 32 bit.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Interested in trying a hardware mod to increase the voltage Kryton?


Hmmmm....









If you have one, I'd be willing to take a peek..... It's a NF4X Infinity MB.

EDIT: I received a working AM2+ system from a fellow member at my home site to tinker with and I also received a 9650 X4 Phenom with it. It also helps I already had a Sempron 3400+ AM2 chip sitting around here - You guys know I'll be putting it through the wringer soon. As to the Phenom, it's a JAAFB 0816 chip with a code of 80300 as it's last five digits. The Sempy is a LFBCF 0711 / 71172 chip. I'm expecting the Phenom to be an average chip for these but the Sempy may have some fire in it.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Well my 3500+ ends in 52340 so it may by similar. It OC's really shady as well. Then again I never ran 1.9v through it.



















Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
For the 1.9volt testing.......well I'll leave that up to Kryton.

N2 was referring to what I did with my 3500+.







1.92v









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
If I could put 1.9V to it, I'd be willing give it a try.








BIOS only gives me 1.85v's to use.

You need to get yourself a DFI board. I do believe I can run upwards of 2v on my Ultra-D's.


----------



## eternalenergy311

So does anyone know if there is a MB for S939 that supports 8 gigs of mem. Just a thought if I decide to upgrade memory for a better OC, I might as well buy as much as I can. Also, does anyone have any DDR400 for sale, say about 4 gigs that has proven to OC better than my ValueRAM. Its not like I really need it but you know how it is...never happy with what you have.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quite a few motherboards supposedly support 8 GB of memory eternalenergy311. There is a catch however. All these boards require unbuffered ECC RAM. Finding 2 GB DIMMs of which are expensive, and the other catch, they tend to be slow. Even when you can find DDR-400, the timings are generally much looser than unregistered RAM, even when the same density. Not to mention that (supposedly) you need an Opteron to run it, although I have heard some Manchesters running it without issue. In my opinion, for a K8, you are better off getting some smoking fast 4 GB of RAM, and when you go K10/K10.5, then go for 8 GB since DDR2-800 et cetera regularly come in larger sizes.

As a side note, I finally got around to updating the off-site roster.


----------



## kwint

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311* 
So does anyone know if there is a MB for S939 that supports 8 gigs of mem. Just a thought if I decide to upgrade memory for a better OC, I might as well buy as much as I can. Also, does anyone have any DDR400 for sale, say about 4 gigs that has proven to OC better than my ValueRAM. Its not like I really need it but you know how it is...never happy with what you have.









Look for a 940 server board. Check ebay and your local craigslist for ram. There was a complete system that had a nice zalman cooler on it for 50 bucks that i wish I had the cash to pick up. I could have used more than half the parts on that, like the ram and video card. According to the ad, the motherboard had died.

*sigh* Unfortunately, for my next "ultra budget build" i may be going to the intel side...Pentium D's are cheap and are great overclockers from what I've been researching, and the motherboards aren't limited to pc3200. But have no doubt that i will still keep my 939. Got an oem tower that I wanna throw it in as sort of a server. But, I still have to think everything over and see which one fits my needs and budget best.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


Also, does anyone have any DDR400 for sale, say about 4 gigs that has proven to OC better than my ValueRAM. Its not like I really need it but you know how it is...never happy with what you have.










Eternalenergy311,

To answer your second question, have a look in the Main Components section to see if anyone has DDR memory up for sale. Finding a good set may prove to be difficult since the memory itself is getting old but it's always worth a try. The kit I have brand new is $65 on Newegg but I wouldn't exactly say it's great for overclocking









Hope that helps

Club: *Please do not post FOR SALE ads in this thread*. Please use the OCN Market Place if you have something for sale.

Thank you


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 








You need to get yourself a DFI board. I do believe I can run upwards of 2v on my Ultra-D's.

It is a DFI.









DFI NF4X Infinity Socket 754 MB.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 









N2 was referring to what I did with my 3500+.







1.92v









*You need to get yourself a DFI board. I do believe I can run upwards of 2v on my Ultra-D's*.

You do know other boards can produce that much voltage too right? My Jetway board could do 1.65v just off the core voltage alone. And then it had "Add Core Voltage" or something like that, and I could add up to like 500mv on top of that. I don't remember for sure, as I NEVER was brave enough to take it that high. Highest I ever took it was +300mv (gave me 1.95v IIRC).

So its not just DFI's that have great voltage options







.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Quite a few motherboards supposedly support 8 GB of memory eternalenergy311. There is a catch however. All these boards require unbuffered ECC RAM. Finding 2 GB DIMMs of which are expensive, and the other catch, they tend to be slow. Even when you can find DDR-400, the timings are generally much looser than unregistered RAM, even when the same density. Not to mention that (supposedly) you need an Opteron to run it, although I have heard some Manchesters running it without issue. In my opinion, for a K8, you are better off getting some smoking fast 4 GB of RAM, and when you go K10/K10.5, then go for 8 GB since DDR2-800 et cetera regularly come in larger sizes.

As a side note, I finally got around to updating the off-site roster.

IIRC, Joe and I were discussing whether or not the A8N32 supported ECC RAM. I can't recall for the life of me whether we ever had a conclusion.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
It is a DFI.









DFI NF4X Infinity Socket 754 MB.

Ahh, gotcha. I guess DFI was a little late in their foretelling that Kryton would have his hands on their board. But they were expecting you for their 939 boards.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
You do know other boards can produce that much voltage too right? My Jetway board could do 1.65v just off the core voltage alone. And then it had "Add Core Voltage" or something like that, and I could add up to like 500mv on top of that. I don't remember for sure, as I NEVER was brave enough to take it that high. Highest I ever took it was +300mv (gave me 1.95v IIRC).

So its not just DFI's that have great voltage options







.

Well yeah. But DFI's have _THE_ best voltage regulation (regarding 939's).
And my DFi's have something similar. Although it's a little more like, set one of the 3 voltage settings to whatever you want, then there's the CPU Special (at least I think that's what it's called) which increases it x%.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
IIRC, Joe and I were discussing whether or not the A8N32 supported ECC RAM. I can't recall for the life of me whether we ever had a conclusion.

BlackOmega, I installed some memory on my current board that was ECC but I cannot recall the type. It POST'ed fine and worked like a champ


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, I installed some memory on my current board that was ECC but I cannot recall the type. It POST'ed fine and worked like a champ









Well I always figured you could use ECC RAM on a board even if it didn't officially support it, and that it would work just fine without the obvious, error correction.

I think Joe and I were discussing whether or not the board supported it officially. It was due to some 2GB stick of DDR someone posted. We were debating on getting it and trying it out with an opty.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well I always figured you could use ECC RAM on a board even if it didn't officially support it, and that it would work just fine without the obvious, error correction.

I think Joe and I were discussing whether or not the board supported it officially. It was due to some 2GB stick of DDR someone posted. We were debating on getting it and trying it out with an opty.


BlackOmega, ahhh ok. The sticks I actually have are only 1GB DDR-333.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well I always figured you could use ECC RAM on a board even if it didn't officially support it, and that it would work just fine without the obvious, error correction.


----------



## N2Gaming

No sig rig yet Hue. I figured you would be flossin you new mobo by now.







j/k


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, ahhh ok. The sticks I actually have are only 1GB DDR-333.


That sucks too, because that all that I have laying around, 333.

I miss the good ole s939 overclocking days. I had about every chip once for athlon x2...


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


No sig rig yet Hue. I figured you would be flossin you new mobo by now.







j/k


OK, I'll race ya! Well see who gets done first. You gotta use the Venus. BTW I think I'll have the tiling done tomorrow so I should be able to get on it tomorrow unless the furnace croaks during the night again tonight.


----------



## N2Gaming

can any one veryfy if *this* ram in the for sale thread is capable of said spds?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
can any one veryfy if *this* ram in the for sale thread is capable of said spds?

N2G, I have a set of those. My set could exceed DDR500 (if I recall, my set can do around DDR560 or so, with 3-3-3-8-1T on my ASUS A8N32-SLI Deluxe).


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
can any one veryfy if *this* ram in the for sale thread is capable of said spds?

Hmmm...... Supposedly those are some really good sticks. He said he hit 720MHz with them though.







Now I'm not saying that's impossible but it does seem HIGHLY unlikely. I'm sure it'll run just fine at advertised speed (500MHz).


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hmmm...... Supposedly those are some really good sticks. He said he hit 720MHz with them though.







Now I'm not saying that's impossible but it does seem HIGHLY unlikely. I'm sure it'll run just fine at advertised speed (500MHz).


yeah he also said he had his sandy at 3.6


----------



## BlackOmega

Also highly unlikely. I don't believe I've ever seen a 939 validation that high. 
Not to mention he said that it ran for 20 minutes like that.









Well, I suppose if the heat spreaders have never been removed then you still have a lifetime warranty on them if anythingwere to ever go wrong with them you could just RMA.


----------



## PROBN4LYFE

Break him down to 70 bucks and DDR500 is a winner.
And Im calling "no proof on a 3.6 sandy" ...
If that were true...why does he only have a +200mhz OC on his current rig?
No overclocker here that I know or don't is satisfied with 200mhz...maybe on a GPU, yeah.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*


That sucks too, because that all that I have laying around, 333.

I miss the *good ole s939 overclocking* days. I had about every chip once for athlon x2...


 That when real overclockers were made. OCing through the BIOS none of this OCing on then desktop nonsense.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Also highly unlikely. I don't believe I've ever seen a 939 validation that high. 
Not to mention he said that it ran for 20 minutes like that.









Well, I suppose if the heat spreaders have never been removed then you still have a lifetime warranty on them if anythingwere to ever go wrong with them you could just RMA.


Oh no I'm not gonna buy any more ram for 939 any time soon...

I have a set of PC3200 OCZ platinums 2x1g kit, PC3200 Gskill 2x1G kit & PC4000 Crucial Balistix 2x1G kit. If any thing I may end up selling down the road for newer hardware updates. I have to much stuff that I really don't need any how.

Don't worry Thlnk3r if & when I decide to sell I will make a for sale thread


----------



## eternalenergy311

So I just defragged and optimized (compacted files) my OS drive, the caviar black, and my disk benchmarks are now ~20% *lower*. I used third party software Ultradefrag, which I have used several times, and have never had these types of results. The results were always positive, maybe minimal, but an improvement. Any ideas? I am puzzled, and kind of ticked off...


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


So I just defragged and optimized (compacted files) my OS drive, the caviar black, and my disk benchmarks are now ~20% *lower*. I used third party software Ultradefrag, which I have used several times, and have never had these types of results. The results were always positive, maybe minimal, but an improvement. Any ideas? I am puzzled, and kind of ticked off...










Did you say you compressed your files on your HDD. Have you tried to uncompress them is so to see what the difference is. I'm betting on the compression slowing down your scores.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Also highly unlikely. I don't believe I've ever seen a 939 validation that high. 
Not to mention he said that it ran for 20 minutes like that.










I have seen some 939's that high.

Go here and sort by socket 939.

You'll see a few 939's in the 3700-3900mhz range. 
Manchester, Venice, & San Diego's.

A larger portion is in the 3000-3600mhz range.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


So I just defragged and optimized (compacted files) my OS drive, the caviar black, and my disk benchmarks are now ~20% *lower*. I used third party software Ultradefrag, which I have used several times, and have never had these types of results. The results were always positive, maybe minimal, but an improvement. Any ideas? I am puzzled, and kind of ticked off...










 Why do you use a 3rd party defragger? I've always used the one that was on the OS and it seems to work just fine.

I'd say try running the one in windows and see if it changes anything.


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Why do you use a 3rd party defragger? I've always used the one that was on the OS and it seems to work just fine.

I'd say try running the one in windows and see if it changes anything.


the third party software usually is able to defrag files that the OS based defrag cannot, plus it allows compaction. This is supposed to move all files to the front(outside of the disk), supposedly increasing read speeds.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Did you say you compressed your files on your HDD. Have you tried to uncompress them is so to see what the difference is. I'm betting on the compression slowing down your scores.










No not compressed, compacted. But that reminded me to make sure that was disabled and it is.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*











the third party software usually is able to defrag files that the OS based defrag cannot, plus it allows compaction. This is supposed to move all files to the front(outside of the disk), supposedly increasing read speeds.


 Interesting. I know the OS can't move any system files but that's about it.


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Interesting. I know the OS can't move any system files but that's about it.

I guess I have seen it work in the past but I am only basing that off the graphs provided by the software that represent defragmented files and where data is placed. I know thats not real proof, maybe I'm being suckered by the software. Either way, I have no idea why I have obtained negative performance results as a result.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311* 
So I just defragged and optimized (compacted files) my OS drive, the caviar black, and my disk benchmarks are now ~20% *lower*. I used third party software Ultradefrag, which I have used several times, and have never had these types of results. The results were always positive, maybe minimal, but an improvement. Any ideas? I am puzzled, and kind of ticked off...









Eternalenergy311, which tool are you using to measure drive performance (HDTune, HDTach ect)? I thought you had already posted a screen shot of your avg. read speeds. If I remember right they looked normal









Good luck


----------



## kwint

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311* 
So I just defragged and optimized (compacted files) my OS drive, the caviar black, and my disk benchmarks are now ~20% *lower*. I used third party software Ultradefrag, which I have used several times, and have never had these types of results. The results were always positive, maybe minimal, but an improvement. Any ideas? I am puzzled, and kind of ticked off...









I had that issue too. Under win7 32 bit, I defragged using a 3rd party software, and my computer felt SLOWER. I mean it really took a toll. Reason behind using 3rd party software is because the OS's defrag program wouldn't defrag. I let it sit for an hour and it stayed at 47% analyzed.

I reformated to get my speed back, but i refuse to defrag again because of that speed loss. Its bad enough I barely make minimum requirements for win7 so any loss of system speed is killer. Win7 seems to have a problem with a defragged hd.


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Eternalenergy311, which tool are you using to measure drive performance (HDTune, HDTach ect)? I thought you had already posted a screen shot of your avg. read speeds. If I remember right they looked normal









Good luck

I had used crystal disk mark in the past, and my speeds were in the upper 80's I believe> i can look back and find the post, lost the image. But here's the new.


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311* 
I had used crystal disk mark in the past, and my speeds were in the upper 80's I believe> i can look back and find the post, lost the image. But here's the new.

and here's the old.


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kwint* 
I had that issue too. Under win7 32 bit, I defragged using a 3rd party software, and my computer felt SLOWER. I mean it really took a toll. Reason behind using 3rd party software is because the OS's defrag program wouldn't defrag. I let it sit for an hour and it stayed at 47% analyzed.

I reformated to get my speed back, but i refuse to defrag again because of that speed loss. Its bad enough I barely make minimum requirements for win7 so any loss of system speed is killer. Win7 seems to have a problem with a defragged hd.

Agreed, this is terrible but oh well, whats another wasted two hours of my life. Time to format...lucky thing for me I have a cloned drive lying around in case I have real problems. I'm actually gonna go with a clean install of 7 though.


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

How much of a Bottle neck is my CPU really? Today i benched two video cards. My 8800GS and then my friends 9800GT Energy Efficient (Just lower clocks than normal 9800gt) Well i ran 3dmark 05 (only one i had installed) and the 9800gt only benched a few points higher. I was confused and wonder if upgrading my gpu from this point doesn't matter.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary* 
How much of a Bottle neck is my CPU really? Today i benched two video cards. My 8800GS and then my friends 9800GT Energy Efficient (Just lower clocks than normal 9800gt) Well i ran 3dmark 05 (only one i had installed) and the 9800gt only benched a few points higher. I was confused and wonder if upgrading my gpu from this point doesn't matter.

Considering you're at 2.4GHz, there is a bottleneck there obviously. You might want to try those tests out again with 3DMark06 or Vantage though. 3DMark05 is even more CPU bound than 06 is.


----------



## kwint

From what I've read, the cpu will only bottleneck the GPU when you're running a multiple card set up.

Depends on the game however. Crysis needs a lot of computer power for it to run, while say need for speed: carbon doesn't need as much. I don't even wanna waste my time getting crysis on my rig but with NFS:C, I can get playable frame rates on medium settings.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311* 
I had used crystal disk mark in the past, and my speeds were in the upper 80's I believe> i can look back and find the post, lost the image. But here's the new.

Eternalenergy311, when you have time download both HDTune and HDtach. Run both applications and let us know what kind of results you get back (screen shots are preferable).

Hopefully the format proves to be helpful

Good luck buddy


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Eternalenergy311, when you have time download both HDTune and HDtach. Run both applications and let us know what kind of results you get back (screen shots are preferable).

Hopefully the format proves to be helpful

Good luck buddy

Yes, I would say the format helped. The clean install versus cloned from my old IDE drive may have helped as well. I guess I learned that 3rd party defrag software may not be the way to go, at least in 7. Here's those results.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kwint* 
I had that issue too. Under win7 32 bit, I defragged using a 3rd party software, and my computer felt SLOWER. I mean it really took a toll. Reason behind using 3rd party software is because the OS's defrag program wouldn't defrag. I let it sit for an hour and it stayed at 47% analyzed.

Kwint, from what I've noticed when a drive won't defrag or it gets "stuck" during a benchmark like HDtach, thats an indicator that the drive is on its way out.
My old Maxtor drive did exactly the same thing right before it went out completely. Just for kicks and giggles, go into the Windows defragger tool and see if it'll analyze after your clean install. If it takes a long time to gather the graph that's an indication that it's crappin' out.
I'd highly suggest that you backup anything you want to keep immediately.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary* 
How much of a Bottle neck is my CPU really? Today i benched two video cards. My 8800GS and then my friends 9800GT Energy Efficient (Just lower clocks than normal 9800gt) Well i ran 3dmark 05 (only one i had installed) and the 9800gt only benched a few points higher. I was confused and wonder if upgrading my gpu from this point doesn't matter.

BPF, a 9800GT is not that much different than an 8800 (the 9800GTX+ is different, it has more SP's). So I'm somewhat not surprised that it didn't really score that much better than your 8800GS. With that said, run 3dmark03. 3DM03 doesn't create a CPU bottleneck like 05 or 06.
Regarding bottlenecks, while it is more noticeable on a multi-gpu system a CPU @ slow speeds can and will bottleneck even a single card. This became very evident to me when I got my AM3. Because I can clock the AM3 so much higher than the 939 obviously my score in the 3Dmark's is considerably higher. But in the same right, all of my actual 3dmarks (GPU scores) increased as well. So the GPU gain or throughput was proportional to the CPU clock speed. And this in turn equates to higher frame rates.

To put it into perspective using the CSS video stress test, on my 939 rig @ 2.9 I can manage ~223 FPS using a single GPU. Now with my AM3 rig run the same benchmark my average is 381.xx FPS. When running the benchmark it spikes as high as 800+ fps.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Kwint, from what I've noticed when a drive won't defrag or it gets "stuck" during a benchmark like HDtach, thats an indicator that the drive is on its way out.
My old Maxtor drive did exactly the same thing right before it went out completely. Just for kicks and giggles, go into the Windows defragger tool and see if it'll analyze after your clean install. If it takes a long time to gather the graph that's an indication that it's crappin' out.
I'd highly suggest that you backup anything you want to keep immediately.

I was gonna suggest running a HDD Test for this reason ^


----------



## Blitz6804

I believe he said it stuck at 47% while doing the Windows defrag.exe.


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

I'm going to reinstall XP and run the test again with my new 8800GS (TY eric) and get back with what i get on multiple test.

I do have a question i'm sure i've asked before. How do i set up a TRI core 720 PII in XP? I know for dual cores AMD had a hotfix and then you had to edit the registry and then msconfig. Do i do the same for a tricore but make another expection? A run through would be great because i'll have my AM3 Rig off the ground tuesday. (Ordering proc Friday when i get paid)


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary*


I do have a question i'm sure i've asked before. How do i set up a TRI core 720 PII in XP? I know for dual cores AMD had a hotfix and then you had to edit the registry and then msconfig. Do i do the same for a tricore but make another expection?


 Great question. I don't think so from what I know. I run my PhII X4 940 w/out any duel core Optimizer or any cpu x4 hot fix. Please let us know If BigpoppaFrary, Omega, I and any other users need to use some flavor of a CPU optimizer to make the cpu's work correctly. AMD use to have some links for CPU optimizers but I have trouble finding them lately on there web sight. I know this is S939 club and I'm sure BigpappaFrary does as well but I'm sure some one like TatorTot prolly knows the answer to this elusive question.


----------



## Tator Tot

The CPU Optimizers are only needed for WinXp 32bit SP1 and previous setups.

Microsoft added in multi-core optimizers in WinXP 32bit SP2, WinXP 64bit SP1 and all later versions of Windows.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


The CPU Optimizers are only needed for WinXp 32bit SP1 and previous setups.

Microsoft added in multi-core optimizers in WinXP 32bit SP2, WinXP 64bit SP1 and all later versions of Windows.


Didn't know when it was added. +rep


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

I have xp 32 sp1. So if i download sp2 and install it i won't have a problem with my tri core?


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks Tator. Your the shiznit man, I knew you would come thruogh.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311* 
Yes, I would say the format helped. The clean install versus cloned from my old IDE drive may have helped as well. I guess I learned that 3rd party defrag software may not be the way to go, at least in 7. Here's those results.

Eternalenergy, those results look about right for that specific model. Just for comparison here is another user whom ran HDTune on the same drive: http://www.hardforum.com/showpost.ph...76&postcount=8.

Hope that helps

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary* 
I do have a question i'm sure i've asked before. How do i set up a TRI core 720 PII in XP? I know for dual cores AMD had a hotfix and then you had to edit the registry and then msconfig. Do i do the same for a tricore but make another expection? A run through would be great because i'll have my AM3 Rig off the ground tuesday. (Ordering proc Friday when i get paid)

BigpoppaFrary, the "msconfig" (/NUMPROC=) option is only used when the OS boots up. This just means that Windows will use more than one processor during it's bootup process. As long as you have a compatible motherboard and the right bios version then the 720BE should up properly within Windows (ie. Task Manager ect).

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary*


I have xp 32 sp1. So if i download sp2 and install it i won't have a problem with my tri core?


 You pretty much need to install SP2, without it XP kind of sucks. Well it doesn't suck but SP2 adds a lot of hardware plug & play support. That and it adds the firewall, which I find works just fine.

I haven't noticed any of my cores not working (unless it's a single threaded app).

Why not just install SP3? It doesn't slow anything down. And adds even more support fer "stuff".


----------



## kwint

XP sp3 sucks when you stream line install it because of the missing hd audio codec.


----------



## Mastiffman

What kind of stuff Black? I count the process bar passes at bootup and it always seemed to be slower with SP3. JMO though..


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mastiffman*


What kind of stuff Black? I count the process bar passes at bootup and it always seemed to be slower with SP3. JMO though..


 Well with each service pack the boot up time is slower simply due to the fact that there's more processes starting up.

As for the stuff it adds, it's mainly security, performance and stability updates.

It also adds, things like Network Access Protection which protects your system by enforcing compliance. It also adds Wifi Protection access 2, it updates the installer, it also adds compliance with different systems and helps communicate with windows vista programs, it also helps with detecting router packet loss. And I'm sure there's a lot of other stuff I left out. Basically, it keeps your system the most up to date.


----------



## thlnk3r

Personally I still prefer to just keep Service Pack 2 installed. I skipped SP3...HOWEVER I still download/install the "security" updates. Those are the important ones


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Personally I still prefer to just keep Service Pack 2 installed. I skipped SP3...HOWEVER I still download/install the "security" updates. Those are the important ones










My software man in Sac-Town told me SP3 was a flop but I don't has any x86 Xp Pro so I can not verify or deny any truths in his claim that SP3 was a dud... What happened to the raises the hands smiliey to simulate shoulder shrugs etc...


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Personally I still prefer to just keep Service Pack 2 installed. I skipped SP3...HOWEVER I still download/install the "security" updates. Those are the important ones










 To tell you quite honestly, there's hardly a difference for me personally between the 2. I usually install it so I don't have to download all of those previous updates, and the added functionality and compliance regulation just helps keep it that much more secure. I figure it can't hurt, and with the speed of the hardware I'm running, even if it adds more background processes I don't notice unless there's some sort of conflict.


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

Can i buy the windows 7 family pack and upgrade from 32 bit to 64 bit IF I DO FULL WIPE AND REINSTALL?

Or do i have to go 32 -> 32 with those upgrades. Also... if i can download genuine Microsoft crap from Microsoft.com Does that mean my key is registered and i can get an upgrade without a hitch? This is my key and all but i don't know anything about the whole register key stuff.


----------



## Blitz6804

If you want to go from x86 to x64 or x64 to x86 you cannot do an in-place install. If you want to go from Vista to Windows 7, you must match versions to do an in-place install. That is, Home Premium to Home Premium, Professional to Professional, Ultimate to Ultimate. (Anything else, like my Ultimate to Home Premium, you need a clean install.) You cannot do an in-place install from XP to Windows 7. Note however, if you own XP or Vista, you qualify for a Windows 7 upgrade license, even if you might need to do a full install as above.


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

i would of course do a full install. But what about 32 to 64 bit? Will it matter? Also my xp is Pro, can i go to home premium 7 ?


----------



## Blitz6804

If you want to go from 32-bit (x86) to 64-bit (x64), you MUST reformat and reinstall. If you want to go from XP to Windows 7 (of any variety), you MUST reformat and reinstall.

You can do an in-place install for:
Vista Home Premium x86 ==> 7 Home Premium x86
Vista Home Premium x64 ==> 7 Home Premium x64
Vista Professional x86 ==> 7 Professional x86
Vista Professional x64 ==> 7 Professional x64
Vista Ultimate x86 ==> 7 Ultimate x86
Vista Ultimate x64 ==> 7 Ultimate x64

Anything else MUST be reformatted to install.


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

yes yes i know this. i planned on formatting and reinstalling anyways. My question is, does it matter if i'm XP PRO to 7 HOME


----------



## Blitz6804

No. Any version of XP qualifies you for an upgrade to any version of Windows 7. If you have a Windows XP Home OEM you can buy a Windows 7 Ultimate Upgrade if you wanted. Personally, I bought the three-pack of Windows 7 Home Premium. All three of my computers can use it (Vista Ultimate x64 Retail, Vista Ultimate x86 OEM, and Windows XP x86 Home OEM) under the terms of the license. The upgrade comes with two discs, x64 and x86, and you can use either version you want.


----------



## FnkDctr

Just curious... what are some of the best socket 939 3dmark06 scores? Best memory bandwidth?

Just trying to find a reason to overclock


----------



## mattliston

well my system gets 1100 at stock clocks

I would imagine with some of the more capable 939 systems with an overclock could achieve upwards of 15k if done on teh right system and videocard


----------



## FnkDctr

I have achieved over 11k on my system, but noticed the SLI didn't play much of an important roll.

The reason I'm asking, is I see a lot of people buying a Dual Core 939 processor and saying they have played games on high detail. I have a great amount of graphics power, processor and ram, and im wondering if I am possibly near a bottleneck of some type.

When I play games, my video cards both get pretty warm with certain ones. up to 70c+. Atleast I know they are being worked.

I usually overclock my cpu to 2,640 and ram to [email protected] So I think I'm decent system, but I wonder if I'm bottlenecked in games

So just to compare, I wanted to see what was decent graphics for a socket 939 system.

PS, this is for mattliston. I have the same exact motherboard. MSI-7184. You cannot unlock overclocking options in the bios other than the ram multi. The higher overclock you can achieve is with the software cpufsb. You can get like 229 fsb. Also, I used to use a program called vcore or something to increase it by 1 step. a64tweaker I used to adjust my memory latency. rivatuner for my graphics cards. Hit me up you need any tips.


----------



## mattliston

well, the biggest bottleneck in my opinion, is always the CPU. it simpyl cant keep up with a snazzy video card like your 8800

the technology isnt there I guess(for socket 939). the grunt can be though, with some good overclocking

someone please confirm this, as its a bit shadowy for me lol


----------



## thlnk3r

FnkDctr, in terms of gaming I'm not entirely sure if you want to use 3DMark06 to gauge system performance. That's just me though. When I was running my Opteron 170 @ 3Ghz with my 4850 (stock) I easily did 10k in 3DMark06 however some games still lagged/skipped a bit. If anything I would just lower the graphic settings and continue playing. Now about bottlenecks? Well I really am not sure which component could be causing the bottleneck. I never bothered to do enough research in that area. I kind of think there's always going to be a bottleneck so ehhh what's the point of worrying about it









I look forward to other users responses

Good luck


----------



## pez

Hey there guys, haven't posted here in agesss. But on topic to the discussion: SLI will be bottlenecked by a dual core everytime unless you're using a Wolfdale from the dark side







. The biggest thing I could see you doing is going up to 1080p monitor where CPU speed matters less and GPU power matters most. I think the biggest thing I miss about 939 was how cool they ran compared to my x4 now haha







.


----------



## TyrantTru

I'm throwing down in appreciation for 939, esp as it kicked AM2's butt for quite some time









I've owned : Three 165 Opteron X2's, all 3.0Ghz OC'd, 4400 Toledo, and several 4000+ clawhammers, lotsof bench rigs in there. Boards I used were DFI Ultra-D NF4's and loved my A8N32-SLI Deluxe -- Cooler of choice was the TT Big Typhoon


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FnkDctr*


Just curious... what are some of the best socket 939 3dmark06 scores? Best memory bandwidth?

Just trying to find a reason to overclock










 FnkDctr, with my opty 180 clocked @ 2.9 and a single 4870 I believe I scored ~13k. Adding the second 4870 didn't really do much in terms of performance.

As for a bottleneck, well there definitely is one, and unfortunately it is the CPU. However, with that same rig I was able to play just about any game out there completely maxed without any skipping or very much noticeable slowdown. Even Crysis played completely maxed ~35FPS.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TyrantTru*


I'm throwing down in appreciation for 939, esp as it kicked AM2's butt for quite some time









I've owned : Three 165 Opteron X2's, all 3.0Ghz OC'd, 4400 Toledo, and several 4000+ clawhammers, lotsof bench rigs in there. Boards I used were DFI Ultra-D NF4's and loved my A8N32-SLI Deluxe -- Cooler of choice was the TT Big Typhoon










 Very nice.









I still have 3 of them, ATM only 1 is folding away. Hopefully, I'll get my other rig back up and running. 
And the Tt Big Typhoon is _still_ an excellent cooler. As a matter of fact i'm still using it on my AM3 board.







At my current settings it idles ~22-24C and loads @ 45C. Couldn't be happier with it especially at half the price of the Xiggy Dark Knight and just as good performance.


----------



## BlackOmega

HEY!!!!!!! Where's everyone been????? This threads been dead as of late.

Anyway, I was trying to gauge how much my boards are worth on fleabay , but all of the DFI's gone??? The only lanparty that's on there is this one. I didn't know that they made SLI-D boards.







And $135!!!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
HEY!!!!!!! Where's everyone been????? This threads been dead as of late.

Anyway, I was trying to gauge how much my boards are worth on fleabay , but all of the DFI's gone??? The only lanparty that's on there is this one. I didn't know that they made SLI-D boards.







And $135!!!

BlackOmega, it's vacation week so I think some people are gone/busy









Yes there was a SLI-D board. I believe it's just the basic nForce4 layout...nothing special. I believe it's missing a SATA controller unlike the SLI-DR which comes with (2) controllers.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
HEY!!!!!!! Where's everyone been????? This threads been dead as of late.

Anyway, I was trying to gauge how much my boards are worth on fleabay , but all of the DFI's gone??? The only lanparty that's on there is this one. I didn't know that they made SLI-D boards.







And $135!!!

I'm still here... I try to only post when there is something that I can talk about like this ^ last post of yours.

That guy on ebay is never gonna sell that mobo at that price. I remember those boards
the SLI-D was just under the SLI-DR. It does not have the Silicon image sata ports or the NVidia Sata ports. I can't remember which is which. In any case Hueristic got his Lanparty NF4 SLI-DR running w/a X2 3800 resting under a True atm.







Maybe he can give us some benchies when he has time...


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, it's vacation week so I think some people are gone/busy









Yes there was a SLI-D board. I believe it's just the basic nForce4 layout...nothing special. I believe it's missing a SATA controller unlike the SLI-DR which comes with (2) controllers.









Hmmm..... it must be somewhat of a rarity as most of the non expert boards I see are SLI-DR's.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I'm still here... I try to only post when there is something that I can talk about like this ^ last post of yours.

That guy on ebay is never gonna sell that mobo at that price. I remember those boards
the SLI-D was just under the SLI-DR. It does not have the Silicon image sata ports or the NVidia Sata ports. I can't remember which is which. In any case Hueristic got his Lanparty NF4 SLI-DR running w/a X2 3800 resting under a True atm.







Maybe he can give us some benchies when he has time...












































No, he's not gonna sell it at that price. When I was looking for my DFI boards, NIB expert boards were going for less than that.

Kind of funny my 3800x2 is sitting under my Xiggy DK. A bit of overkill for it, but it gets the job done.

When I get a second later, I'm going to swapthe boards out in my folding rigs to verify that my Antec PSU did in fact fail. Then I'll run some benchies with the 2 different sets GSO (384 vs 768MB).


----------



## N2Gaming

Cool can hardly waite to see thoise bench scores. I got Front Lines All Patched up and it seems to not like my system. I mean my video is SLI'd and I get tearing and lag issues at times in single player mode. I Have not tried online multi player yet.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Cool can hardly waite to see those bench scores. I got Front Lines All Patched up and it seems to not like my system. I mean my video is SLI'd and I get tearing and lag issues at times in single player mode. I Have not tried online multi player yet.


 Yeah I'm curious myself, I wonder if there will be a significant difference?

As for front lines, I've heard it has issues with 64 bit OS's. Some people have sound issues, others with win7 have problems with lag and such. Do you get the tearing with only 1 GPU?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Yeah I'm curious myself, I wonder if there will be a significant difference?

As for front lines, I've heard it has issues with 64 bit OS's. Some people have sound issues, others with win7 have problems with lag and such. Do you get the tearing with only 1 GPU?


can't remember but I think I do and if memory serves the lagging is worse w/only one card. Disabling SLI atm and then will test w/just one card. Let you know what I find.


----------



## pez

Word of advice to people who might use or be interested in using the Xiggy 1283's and Dark Knights. Our fellow member nafljhy makes the custom mount which I just finished installing yesterday. While I have AM2+/AM3, the socket size is physically the same. I'll attach some pics. The benefit I have seen is 2C lower at all times since the Xiggy is no longer pulling hot air directly from my video card.

This also allows you to buy taller RAM as the fan comes right to where the RAM begins as seen in the attached pics.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Word of advice to people who might use or be interested in using the Xiggy 1283's and Dark Knights. Our fellow member nafljhy makes the custom mount which I just finished installing yesterday. While I have AM2+/AM3, the socket size is physically the same. I'll attach some pics. The benefit I have seen is 2C lower at all times since the Xiggy is no longer pulling hot air directly from my video card.

This also allows you to buy taller RAM as the fan comes right to where the RAM begins as seen in the attached pics.


 Not a bad looking getup. I was planning on using my DK on my sig rig, but since I got my Big Typhoon to fit, I'm no longer going to be using the DK for it. My Big Typhoon performs on par if not a little bit better than my DK.


----------



## FnkDctr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


The CPU Optimizers are only needed for WinXp 32bit SP1 and previous setups.

Microsoft added in multi-core optimizers in WinXP 32bit SP2, WinXP 64bit SP1 and all later versions of Windows.


Please show me where it says this?

I installed windows xp 32bit sp3 from an OEM disk, and it did not come with Dual Core Optimizers. I recently installed either batman arkum asylum or resident evil 5. one of them told me I didnt have it installed. So I did, and now I can alt tab out of my games much better and many run smooth.

And also. All this bottleneck talk is driving me crazy now.

One person a couple posts back has a dual core +4400, but a 6600gt. Of course you can only play games on medium, your graphics card is the cause.

I can run Crysis on medium to high settings. I then added another 8800gt, and now I can run it on almost high everthing. FPS typically require more gpu than a rts game which requires cpu.

If you are having issues with tearing and lag in a game with SLI, are you sure that SLI is even being used? I use speedfan to monitor my temps and task manager to monitor my cpu usage. I can then tell which games use my dual core cpu and sli. I can then check for video card updates or game updates to resolve sli issues. Or I use ntune to force different types of sli which often works.

I recently purchased Aioin which does not support SLI. I run it in split frame rendering. Some different types will make the game more smooth even though the fps are the same.

I just watch task manager, if my cpu is 100%, I turn up the in game graphics to the highest they can go, then back them off alittle if it lags up. If the gpu stays below 60c, then I know they arent being worked and the cpu is the bottleneck. If they go above 70c, then I know they are atleast being used.

Crysis, Bioshock, Test Drive Unlimited, COD MW2, Batman, Res Evil 5, Orange Box, Aioin, Fallout 3, Burnout Paradise, Guild Wars, Empire Total War, Age of Conan, and many many more. Almost all of em are on max detail, no lag at all. Some minor cpu overclocking works wonders. Love my socket 939.


----------



## N2Gaming

I just finished testing Front Lines Duel of War and I get a little bit of lag issue w/both non-SLI and SLI configurations but I did not do any thing extensive to determine why this is happening. I did reboot once to clear any thing out of ram that may cause any issues and it seems to be playing OK. I can live w/it for the most part. I don't like to do to many things to get SLI to work. I mean either it works or it don't in my book and messing w/all the SLI settings just for one game may make it start acting up in others. That and also my lack of memory to remember what I changed so that I can change them back. I know there is a set to Defaults button but I guess you can just call me lazy. So I prefer to leave my SLI settings the way they are from initial Nvidia Driver installs.

All I have to do now is try a online multiplayer game now.

Hey FnkDcr, how do you get SLI to work in Burnout Paradise w/out the spuratic lock ups that create momentary freez frames? Sory I use my lingo for lack of proper terminology...


----------



## BlackOmega

I gotta agree with Funkdctr. There is no dual core optimizer with any of the 32bit XP service packs. Before I got my AM3 I was trying to play through the campaign in Call of Duty and there was a part where the AI simply freaked out and would get stuck to where I couldn't continue the campaign anymore. So I contacted Activision tech support and the guy asked me if I had the dual core optimizer installed. I didn't so I installed it and wouldn't you know it, it fixed it. At the time I had SP3 installed.

FunkDctr, there is most definitely a bottleneck with your CPU and those 8800's in SLI. It's due to the fact that the GPU's send more information than the CPU can process. Which results in low frame rates. It's not that the 939 is a bad CPU, it's not it's a great CPU, but it simply can't achieve the higher clock speeds like the newer CPU's.
Here's my theory as to why: On the 939 chips the IMC voltage is also controlled by the main CPU voltage. So when you up the actual core voltage you up the IMC voltage as well. And then when you get to ~1.5v the IMC starts to freak out and causes instability. On the newer chips like AM3, the IMC voltage is separate which leads to overall cooler temps and better overclocking.

And to put it in perspective, my rig @ 3.6GHz with 1 4870 beat my Opty 180 @ 3.0GHz with 2 4870's by quite a healthy margin ~2500 points. And that was even before I messed around with the memory speed/timings/CPU-NB frequency. Then it beat the 2 card 939 config by ~3k points. And now with 2 cards @ 3.6 I score 19.5k.

EDIT:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I just finished testing Front Lines Duel of War and I get a little bit of lag issue w/both non-SLI and SLI configurations but I did not do any thing extensive to determine why this is happening. I did reboot once to clear any thing out of ram that may cause any issues and it seems to be playing OK. I can live w/it for the most part. I don't like to do to many things to get SLI to work. I mean either it works or it don't in my book and messing w/all the SLI settings just for one game may make it start acting up in others. That and also my lack of memory to remember what I changed so that I can change them back. I know there is a set to Defaults button but I guess you can just call me lazy. So I prefer to leave my SLI settings the way they are from initial Nvidia Driver installs.

All I have to do now is try a online multiplayer game now.


Go in to Nvidia console manager (whatever it's called







) and then go to 3d settings. There will be the SLI setting, it'll have a drop down menu where you can choose which style of SLI rendering you want. There should be 5 settings (IIRC), 2 alternate frame rendering, 2 split frame rendering and some other one that slips my mind at the moment. The difference between the 2 alt. frame and split frame rendering is that it changes which card renders what frame. Like in alternate frame rendering 1 GPU 0 will render all of the odd frames whereas in alternate frame rendering 2 GPU 0 will render all of the even frames.
In split frame I think that it swaps which GPU renders which portion of the screen (top or bottom).


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
...In any case Hueristic got his Lanparty NF4 SLI-DR running w/a X2 3800 resting under a True atm.







Maybe he can give us some benchies when he has time...












































After the foldathon. wondering why there is a 6c differance on the cores. It was only 4c with the other sink. I've remounted it twice.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
...Our fellow member nafljhy makes the custom mount which I just finished installing yesterday. ...

The Lanparty only has 2 holes.


----------



## thlnk3r

In regards to the dual-core optimizer, I was under the impression that Microsoft had their own version pre-installed with Service Pack 3 (XPP)?


----------



## FnkDctr

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
And to put it in perspective, my rig @ 3.6GHz with 1 4870 beat my Opty 180 @ 3.0GHz with 2 4870's by quite a healthy margin ~2500 points. And that was even before I messed around with the memory speed/timings/CPU-NB frequency. Then it beat the 2 card 939 config by ~3k points. And now with 2 cards @ 3.6 I score 19.5k.

What are we talking about? 3dmark scores? The newer versions take cpu benchmarks into a large part of the score. I went from 10k to 11k when I went SLI, but a single core vs a dual core was 4k score difference. So... You have changed too many variables and have benchmarked something that really doesn't apply.

Try a game, and actually post back the FPS difference. And keep the video selection the same...


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FnkDctr* 
What are we talking about? 3dmark scores? The newer versions take cpu benchmarks into a large part of the score. I went from 10k to 11k when I went SLI, but a single core vs a dual core was 4k score difference. So... You have changed too many variables and have benchmarked something that really doesn't apply.

Try a game, and actually post back the FPS difference. And keep the video selection the same...

Yes, I was talking about 3dmark06 scores. They're relevant to gaming. And since the CPU test is single threaded the amount of cores you have doesn't matter. Switching to Am3 netted me along the lines of a 6-7k point increase. Which directly translates to considerably better gameplay.

Well if you want an FPS difference here ya go. Running the video stress test in CSS on my 939 rig using 2 4870's my average was 235 FPS. On my AM3 rig with ONE 4870 it averages 381 FPS.

How about Far Cry 2, with my 939 rig @ 2.9 and 2 4870's with everything set to ultra high @ 1680x1050 8x AA, it struggled to get 23 FPS. AM3 rig with same settings pulls off 55 FPS average with a low of 41 and a high of 80.

And to tell you honestly I stopped monitoring FPS in games because there hasn't been one yet that causes any slowdown.

Also, my old rig was similar to yours. Opty 180 (2.9 GHz @ 1.35v), Asus A8n32sli, 2 GB Corsair, 2 x 9600 GSO GDDR3. The GSO's are basically re-branded 8800GTS's. So I know EXACTLY what you're frame rates are like. Overclocking to 2.9 GHz made a very good improvement in terms of frame rates and overall playability.

And if at all possible please refrain from insulting people that are trying to help you. Thanks.


----------



## FnkDctr

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Yes, I was talking about 3dmark06 scores. They're relevant to gaming. And since the CPU test is single threaded the amount of cores you have doesn't matter. Switching to Am3 netted me along the lines of a 6-7k point increase. Which directly translates to considerably better gameplay.

And if at all possible please refrain from insulting people that are trying to help you. Thanks.

First, you are still wrong. I will say this as nice as possible(since you cry about being insulted). You need to think before you type because you don't know what you're talking about.

Single threaded benchmarks will still make a difference according to clock speed and the cache on the processor. "And since the CPU test is single threaded the amount of cores you have doesn't matter"

Was Far Cry 2 even using Crossfire? I mean cmon. I suggested benchmarking with the SAME EXACT VIDEO SETUP.

If you are using different setups, why are you still even talking? You don't know if your dual card setup was even working for the games you are mentioning and I haven't seen one screenshot. Are you related to the person who got 700mhz out of ddr1?

If my cards get warm, I'd imagine they are being used. If my cards hit 80c with zalman coolers, then I'd imagine the cpu is not causing much of a bottleneck. Of course there is ALWAYS a bottleneck in any system. But having a fine balance is what makes people great at computers, or people like you who just smash numbers together with no logic.

"The idiot doesn't learn from the wiseman, but the wiseman learns from the idiot."


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Not a bad looking getup. I was planning on using my DK on my sig rig, but since I got my Big Typhoon to fit, I'm no longer going to be using the DK for it. My Big Typhoon performs on par if not a little bit better than my DK.

Well I saw a big difference as when my GPU is in a non-idle state, the heat would dissipate up (as nature makes it) and would just make my temps rise a good 2-3C. Now that it's reoriented, it's not changing and in turn stays around 35-36C. Got home today to see my new case waiting for me and it's beautiful







. The owner before me kept it in fantastic condition. I think next, I'm going to set it up as Push/Pull with my two 88CFM Yates. I think I may upgrade the mobo for X-mas. DFI has my heart for now







.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
After the foldathon. wondering why there is a 6c differance on the cores. It was only 4c with the other sink. I've remounted it twice.

The Lanparty only has 2 holes.

Oh...why? lol.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FnkDctr* 
First, you are still wrong. I will say this as nice as possible(since you cry about being insulted). You need to think before you type because you don't know what you're talking about.

Single threaded benchmarks will still make a difference according to clock speed and the cache on the processor. "And since the CPU test is single threaded the amount of cores you have doesn't matter"

Was Far Cry 2 even using Crossfire? I mean cmon. I suggested benchmarking with the SAME EXACT VIDEO SETUP.

If you are using different setups, why are you still even talking? You don't know if your dual card setup was even working for the games you are mentioning and I haven't seen one screenshot. Are you related to the person who got 700mhz out of ddr1?

If my cards get warm, I'd imagine they are being used. If my cards hit 80c with zalman coolers, then I'd imagine the cpu is not causing much of a bottleneck. Of course there is ALWAYS a bottleneck in any system. But having a fine balance is what makes people great at computers, or people like you who just smash numbers together with no logic.

"The idiot doesn't learn from the wiseman, but the wiseman learns from the idiot."


Lol you know nothing about me yet you must insist on trying to offend me.
I compared a very similar getup to yours, opty 180 on a SLI board with 9600GSO's, which are IDENTICAL to 8800GTS's, but it seems as though you're too dimwitted to realize that your 8800GT's aren't that much different.

And the reason I even brought up my 4870's was to prove a point as to how much the 939cpu bottlenecks the GPU. But once again your too challenged to make that correlation.


----------



## Blitz6804

The last time I ran XP (XP Home x86 SP3 on a Brisbane) I could not run the dual-core optimizer. After installing it, I would bluescreen repeatedly. Uninstalling it restored my stability. All I needed to properly use the dualcore was to use "/usepmtimer." There is a Microsoft hotfix for dual-core CPUs which I must have installed before the dual-core optimizer making it superfluous. With XP Home x86 Vanilla, I can tell you the dual-core optimizer is absolutely essential for proper operation. (I had not swung to SP1 until after I had my Toledo for quite some time.)


----------



## FnkDctr

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I compared a very similar getup to yours, opty 180 on a SLI board with 9600GSO's, which are IDENTICAL to 8800GTS's, but it seems as though you're too dimwitted to realize that your 8800GT's aren't that much different.

And the reason I even brought up my 4870's was to prove a point as to how much the 939cpu bottlenecks the GPU. But once again your too challenged to make that correlation.

And if your cards hit 80C with aftermarket cooling, then I hate to tell you your aftermarket cooling sucks. With STOCK cooling on my GSO's they'd barely hit 70C. Maybe your coolers suck? Or maybe it's user error. Somehow I'd be more inclined to go with the second option.

Ok, well 9600GSO is not even close to a 8800GT. 9600GT isnt even as good as a 8800GT. So, I know exactly what you're trying to sound smart about.

Then you came out of nowhere with this 4870 crossfire comparison with 2 cards, then a different cpu and 1 card, and you expect us to compare the 10 variables and that adds up to what?

http://images.tigerdirect.com/skuima...8842-main2.jpg

I didn't know it took user error to overclock a XFX 8800GT Zalman edition to 80c. Usually that means I'm running them hard as hell. They Idle in the 50's, and most games get them anywhere from 60-70c. I just know how to push my system.


----------



## Blitz6804

To all: just because a card is warming up does not mean it is working hard. My HD 4870x2s would sometimes heat up with no additional load to them because of external factors. Granted, when you check their load meter and all four are reading 60% or more...


----------



## thlnk3r

Guys, I think it's time we calm it down..

Just a little reminder from the TOS:

Usage of Overclock.net is contingent on the following:

# *You respect the site, its management and its members*
# *You do not troll or attempt to stir up trouble within the community*
Thanks


----------



## FnkDctr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


To all: just because a card is warming up does not mean it is working hard. My HD 4870x2s would sometimes heat up with no additional load to them because of external factors. Granted, when you check their load meter and all four are reading 60% or more...


Ok, I understand that you can't relate card temps to actual load. But, with Nvidia I don't believe there is a load monitor? Not for a 8800GT atleast









So, I took my max temp, idle temp, and average temps. I guess if I run normal games on max graphics and get 60-70c that 80c would be using the cards more if the clock speeds are the same.

EDIT:

Just wanted to show a screenshot of how to force SLI in games that don't accept it.

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/m...r/untitled.jpg

Notice the red gpu temp stayed the same, while the cpu temp climbed? I ran the game, and it only uses 1 card when I let nvidia select video setup. I then force it, and the game runs sooooo smooth in towns. I went from mid 20's in fps in towns to 40-60fps max everything.

I get no crashes, hangs or skips. However in the other render modes it did stutter once n awhile.

After I closed out the game, changed the settings in ntune, I then loaded it back up, and you can see the second gpu climb in temp. Proof is in the temps and fps. Good times


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FnkDctr*


Ok, I understand that you can't relate card temps to actual load. But, with Nvidia I don't believe there is a load monitor? Not for a 8800GT atleast









So, I took my max temp, idle temp, and average temps. I guess if I run normal games on max graphics and get 60-70c that 80c would be using the cards more if the clock speeds are the same.

EDIT:

Just wanted to show a screenshot of how to force SLI in games that don't accept it.

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/m...r/untitled.jpg

Notice the red gpu temp stayed the same, while the cpu temp climbed? I ran the game, and it only uses 1 card when I let nvidia select video setup. I then force it, and the game runs sooooo smooth in towns. I went from mid 20's in fps in towns to 40-60fps max everything.

I get no crashes, hangs or skips. However in the other render modes it did stutter once n awhile.

After I closed out the game, changed the settings in ntune, I then loaded it back up, and you can see the second gpu climb in temp. Proof is in the temps and fps. Good times


I used EVGA Precision when I had my 2 XFX 9800GT's. Let's you set up profiles as well. Reminds me of ATI's CCC but much much lighter.


----------



## Blitz6804

I just load up GPU-Z and put it in the systray, permitting it to update in the background. I run the game a bit, then alt-tab to GPU-Z and see which card have loaded and how much.


----------



## Hueristic

KB896256 is in sp3 for xp and maybe sp2 I don't remember.


----------



## BlackOmega

Well it's official my Antec is dead.









I swapped my boards and she fires up just fine with my PCP&C 610. Crap now where to find a good, inexpensive PSU.









Think I might swap my 180 in here just for kicks and giggles.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


KB896256 is in sp3 for xp and maybe sp2 I don't remember.


Hueristic, no you're correct. KB896256 comes with Service Pack 3 (XPP). In all honestly the "optimizer" is just a registry modification...nothing fancy









Good luck


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I swapped my boards and she fires up just fine with my PCP&C 610. Crap now where to find a good, inexpensive PSU.









BlackOmega, there are few brands you can check out:

Rosewill Green series (ATNG built)
Seasonic
Corsair (some are Seasonic and Channel Well Technology built)

It's always a little hard finding a "good/inexpensive" model. With quality always comes a price. My 550VX has served me well and it's still under $100.

Good luck


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Well it's official my Antec is dead.









I swapped my boards and she fires up just fine with my PCP&C 610. Crap now where to find a good, inexpensive PSU.









Think I might swap my 180 in here just for kicks and giggles.









How much power do you need?

The Rosewill Green Series 530watt is very cheap right now, and a powerful unit.

The 750watt Earthwatts is also very cheap right now. ($90 + FS + $15 MIR = $75 AMIR)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
The 750watt Earthwatts is also very cheap right now. ($90 + FS + $15 MIR = $75 AMIR)

Tator, oh man I completely forgot about the Earthwatts series. I believe some of those if not all are built by Seasonic too


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Tator, oh man I completely forgot about the Earthwatts series. I believe some of those if not all are built by Seasonic too









It's actually a delta build but it did receive a 8/10 at Jonny Guru only being slightly behind the True Power New 750watt, but it's current price makes it's a better value. Though, they are both close after mail in rebates. The True Power new is $20 more before that point, and is only marginally better.

I would go for either one though.

The True Power New is a Seasonic build, but it looks a bit like a mix between the S12 & M12D, either way, it got a 9/10 at Jonny Guru, and is a very solid build. And a nice alternative to the Corsair TX750watt


----------



## BlackOmega

Well I was running this rig using an Antec 500w unit, but I believe that it was running it at it's peak power and hence it died.
I want a decent quality unit as I don't want anything to crap out if the PSU does in fact crap out. Something along the lines of 600w as it is going to be powering 2 GSO's (26a).


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Well I was running this rig using an Antec 500w unit, but I believe that it was running it at it's peak power and hence it died.
I want a decent quality unit as I don't want anything to crap out if the PSU does in fact crap out. Something along the lines of 600w as it is going to be powering 2 GSO's (26a).

Which antec unit was it?


----------



## BlackOmega

It was the  Smart power 2.0 500w. From what I've read that unit had problems from the get go.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well it's official my Antec is dead.









I swapped my boards and she fires up just fine with my PCP&C 610. Crap now where to find a good, inexpensive PSU.









Think I might swap my 180 in here just for kicks and giggles.











Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well I was running this rig using an Antec 500w unit, but I believe that it was running it at it's peak power and hence it died. 
I want a decent quality unit as I don't want anything to crap out if the PSU does in fact crap out. Something along the lines of 600w as it is going to be powering 2 GSO's (26a).


I guess I'll suggest the one in my sig. It's an Earthwatts 650. If you search EA650 in newegg it was $80 shipped last time I checked. Great deal as it usually goes for $100. Got mind for $50 on a crazy deal from the egg a while back. Been running strong for me, though







.


----------



## BlackOmega

I gotta wait until money comes back around unfortunately. But I was looking at those OCZ mod Extreme's and theres a 500w one for $35 after MIR. Maybe I'll ask for it for Christmas, then I might be able to get a better one.









And well while I was messing around with my folding rigs today here's what I finally came up with. CPUz validation.










EDIT:

Here's how she does at stock speeds.


----------



## kwint

Is anyone using the scythe mugen 2? I'm wanna get it but I'm worried about clearance issues with my ram. I have rougly a penny's diameter between the cpu heatsink bracket and the dimm slots.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TyrantTru*


I'm throwing down in appreciation for 939, esp as it kicked AM2's butt for quite some time









I've owned : Three 165 Opteron X2's, all 3.0Ghz OC'd, 4400 Toledo, and several 4000+ clawhammers, lotsof bench rigs in there. Boards I used were DFI Ultra-D NF4's and loved my A8N32-SLI Deluxe -- Cooler of choice was the TT Big Typhoon










Hello TT.
















Yes, it's ME again.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
It was the Smart power 2.0 500w. From what I've read that unit had problems from the get go.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
I guess I'll suggest the one in my sig. It's an Earthwatts 650. If you search EA650 in newegg it was $80 shipped last time I checked. Great deal as it usually goes for $100. Got mind for $50 on a crazy deal from the egg a while back. Been running strong for me, though







.

Earthwatts 750 & True Power New 750's are the same price (after MIR) and much better builds.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I gotta wait until money comes back around unfortunately. But I was looking at those OCZ mod Extreme's and theres a 500w one for $35 after MIR. Maybe I'll ask for it for Christmas, then I might be able to get a better one.









Those OCZ MXS's are not very good. Neither are the Stealth's.

The Rosewill Green Series S12's are only a smig better, but always cheaper for the most part, without MIR's and such.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kwint* 
Is anyone using the scythe mugen 2? I'm wanna get it but I'm worried about clearance issues with my ram. I have rougly a penny's diameter between the cpu heatsink bracket and the dimm slots.

I remember someone having one here. Unless you have taller than normal RAM, it should fit perfectly fine.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kwint*


Is anyone using the scythe mugen 2? I'm wanna get it but I'm worried about clearance issues with my ram. I have rougly a penny's diameter between the cpu heatsink bracket and the dimm slots.


As long as your dims do not have high heatspreaders you should be just fine.


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

New build up an running!

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=848291

once i get everything situated i'll try to unlock my 4th core. In bios under ACC it says core 0-1-2-3

Does that mean i have a 4th core? I havn't tried hybrid and go into windows because this is a new install of vista


----------



## FnkDctr

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I just load up GPU-Z and put it in the systray, permitting it to update in the background. I run the game a bit, then alt-tab to GPU-Z and see which card have loaded and how much.

=( I tried to do the same. GPU-Z wont monitor the usage of certain graphics cards. I'm out of luck with that option on my 8800gt's...

Hmmm I have another idea. I'm going to benchmark my system. Overclock my graphics cards, and compare the improvement. Then I'm going to highly overclock my cpu, run the graphics card test and normal speeds, then overclocked, and compare the specs. See if I can detect a bottleneck. I mean technically, the improvement should be the same between stock gpu settings and overclocked. 10, 15 20% improvement, whatever. Therefore if I have a higher % of improvement with the higher cpu settings, then obviously my system can't handle the overclocking of the gpu which means the cpu is causing a bottleneck.

Does that sound logical to anyone? Hmmmm


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FnkDctr*


=( I tried to do the same. GPU-Z wont monitor the usage of certain graphics cards. I'm out of luck with that option on my 8800gt's...

Hmmm I have another idea. I'm going to benchmark my system. Overclock my graphics cards, and compare the improvement. Then I'm going to highly overclock my cpu, run the graphics card test and normal speeds, then overclocked, and compare the specs. See if I can detect a bottleneck. I mean technically, the improvement should be the same between stock gpu settings and overclocked. 10, 15 20% improvement, whatever. Therefore if I have a higher % of improvement with the higher cpu settings, then obviously my system can't handle the overclocking of the gpu which means the cpu is causing a bottleneck.

Does that sound logical to anyone? Hmmmm


That does sound logical. And honestly, whether you want to admit it or not, the K8 is definitely a bottleneck for that SLI setup. Granted once your resolution goes up to a certain point, the CPU won't play into the situation as much, so for a high resolution 1080p or higher, your CPU would be just fine (as would my old Opteron). I have done these tests before myself, and at 1440x900, SLI just wasn't enough of a help honestly. Except with super low end cards (6800XT's, and 8600GTS's). Once I went SLI with the 8800GT, 9600GT, and 8800GTS 320's...the extra card just wasn't enough of an improvement for my resolution.


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

my occt says denab under core but in cpu-z it says heka? What's up


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary*


my occt says denab under core but in cpu-z it says heka? What's up


BigpoppaFrary, did you try unlocking your X3 yet? These Phenom II's I believe are Deneb cores so that probably makes sense why OCCT is reporting that


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Earthwatts 750 & True Power New 750's are the same price (after MIR) and much better builds.

Those OCZ MXS's are not very good. Neither are the Stealth's.

The Rosewill Green Series S12's are only a smig better, but always cheaper for the most part, without MIR's and such.


 You know I saw a review over at jonny guru about the 600w mod extreme and it actually did surprisingly well. I looked for it, but it seems to be gone.








I'll probably wind up going with something like this.


----------



## N2Gaming

This goes out to all our American members. Happy Turkey Day.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*   You know I saw a review over at jonny guru about the 600w mod extreme and it actually did surprisingly well. I looked for it, but it seems to be gone.








I'll probably wind up going with something like this.  
The 650TX is not as good as the EA/TPN750watt models. They are newer designs. 
It's a solid PSU, but for the money, you'd probably be better with the EA750 or TPN750.

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*   This goes out to all our American members. Happy Turkey Day.







  
Here's my Happy Turkey day to everyone

  
 



  



 
Thlnk3r knows.


----------



## BlackOmega

HAPPY TURKEY DAY!









Tator, I suppose you're right for ~$5 difference (after MIR) it would be a wiser choice to get that Antec EA750. I'm trying to go with as little cost as possible since it's just for folding. Man I wish I could find another deal like I did on my PCP&C.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Tator, I suppose you're right for ~$5 difference (after MIR) it would be a wiser choice to get that Antec EA750. I'm trying to go with as little cost as possible since it's just for folding. Man I wish I could find another deal like I did on my PCP&C.

PSU deals only come around so often is the problem.

After Christmas might yield better fruits.


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

I haven't tried unlocking yet. I'm not sure how but i go into ACC and it says core 0 core 1 core 2 core 3. Does that mean it sees it? And then i got something about per core or all cores and its like -2 0 and stuff like that.

The acc is normal or hybrid. Do i change it to hybrid to see if i get a quad core?


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary*


I haven't tried unlocking yet. I'm not sure how but i go into ACC and it says core 0 core 1 core 2 core 3. Does that mean it sees it? And then i got something about per core or all cores and its like -2 0 and stuff like that.

The acc is normal or hybrid. Do i change it to hybrid to see if i get a quad core?


Yeah, it's recognizing it. CPU-z when unlocked will look funny. It will show up as a Deneb. I think you should set it to hybrid for it to do it.

AND

HAPPY THANKSGIVING ALL!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Happy Thanksgiving Day, S939ers! I'm back from a wonderful trip to Lake Tahoe. BEAUTIFUL up there, especially this time of year.

I won't be in regular circulation until goodness knows when, but hopefully I'll be back with y'alls soon.


----------



## Hueristic

BO I have the True Power 750 and I love it.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
This goes out to all our American members. Happy Turkey Day.









Happy Thanksgiving all!


----------



## Blitz6804

BlackOmega: Silverstone seem to make good PSUs. My 750 W worked great (60 A single 12 V rail) but could not power quadfire according to ATi. This is why I bought my 1000 W model, I guess I could swap back to the 750 W, but then that would mean I would need to rewire the case. Meh.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
PSU deals only come around so often is the problem.

After Christmas might yield better fruits.

Yeah that's more than likely when I'll get one. This time I'll be sure to get one that's powerful enough, turns out that 500w just didn't cut it.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Happy Thanksgiving Day, S939ers! I'm back from a wonderful trip to Lake Tahoe. BEAUTIFUL up there, especially this time of year.

I won't be in regular circulation until goodness knows when, but hopefully I'll be back with y'alls soon.

Where the heck youz been? Ahhh man I'm jealous, I've never been that far out west. I hear it's beautiful out there.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
BO I have the True Power 750 and I love it.
Happy Thanksgiving all!









Yeah I figure if their crappy one lasted 5 years then a good one will last FOREVER!









Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
BlackOmega: Silverstone seem to make good PSUs. My 750 W worked great (60 A single 12 V rail) but could not power quadfire according to ATi. This is why I bought my 1000 W model, I guess I could swap back to the 750 W, but then that would mean I would need to rewire the case. Meh.

Yeah I've read that about them. I'm not positive on this but aren't some Silverstone units re-branded Seasonics? (like most other quality units).
Whats your current power draw? It might be cheaper if you swap the 750 in, but then again you'll rest easy knowing that your 1000w PSU isn't even close to being taxed.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Here's my Happy Turkey day to everyone

Thlnk3r knows.










Tator, man I still can't believe that LOLLL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary*


I haven't tried unlocking yet. I'm not sure how but i go into ACC and it says core 0 core 1 core 2 core 3. Does that mean it sees it? And then i got something about per core or all cores and its like -2 0 and stuff like that.

The acc is normal or hybrid. Do i change it to hybrid to see if i get a quad core?


BigpoppaFrary, setting "ACC" to Hybrid as Pez mentioned will unlock the processor. Don't forget to add some cpu voltage just in case it decides not to POST on you. Keep everything at stock for now and run a stability test to confirm the fourth core is functional and not faulty.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Happy Thanksgiving Day, S939ers! I'm back from a wonderful trip to Lake Tahoe. BEAUTIFUL up there, especially this time of year.


Joe, welcome back









Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Yeah I've read that about them. I'm not positive on this but aren't some Silverstone units re-branded Seasonics? (like most other quality units).


BlackOmega, I'm not aware of Seasonic making power supplies for Silverstone. Known manufacturers of Silverstone units are Etasis, Seventeam and FSP. If you're unsure of the unit then try and Google the UL number. That should bring up the manufacturer.

Good luck


----------



## pez

Ooooh, I officially put a SB750 board on my Christmas List







. Gigabyte 790X-UD4P here I come?!?!


----------



## Blitz6804

BlackOmega: Yeah, now that I am down to one card again, I will only need the 750 W. I can likely sell the 1000 W for more than I can sell the 750 W for, but considering I already spent the money for the 1000 W (which I will only get a fraction back of) I might as well keep the 1000 W and sell the 750 W. Besides, this way, if I ever get a WQUXGA or better monitor, I can drop in an HD 5870/5970 to help drive that many pixels somewhere down the line. (I doubt it though, I am likely going to downgrade my resolution to 1080p in favor of like a 40-50" TV.)


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey Omega. You may be interested in the Corsair HX620 for $69.99 after a $50.00 MIR at the egg.


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

i turned it to hybrid but it still says x3 and heka x3 in cpuz. Should i try to bump the voltage up ?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I can drop in an HD 5870/5970 to help drive that many pixels somewhere down the line.

Blitz6804, if you're still having heat issues then you may want to think twice before buying a 5970. Stock cooling you'll probably see 80+ Celsius during load which will bump your case ambient up. Overclocking the card will get you close to 100C. The card runs pretty warm. On a positive note the 5970 can easily run off a 650 watt PSU. Most of the power consumption tables I've seen bring total system power to low 400's (this is with a quad and one drive). In my opinion the 5850/5870 is a way better deal.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BigpoppaFrary* 
i turned it to hybrid but it still says x3 and heka x3 in cpuz. Should i try to bump the voltage up ?

BigpoppaFrary, if it's not showing up in CPU-Z or the task manager then it sounds like it didn't work. Increasing the voltage won't help at this point. Have you tried clearing your CMOS and trying it again? Sometimes that helps. Don't forget also to play with ACC (ie. +2% for each core). The SB710 chipset SHOULD allow you to unlock the processor. I know the SB750 is almost always a guarantee (on most boards).

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

thlnk3r: Even with two HD 4870x2s running Furmark for a half hour, my case ambient went up to only 22Âº C, which hardly creates any issue for my CPU cooler.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
thlnk3r: Even with two HD 4870x2s running Furmark for a half hour, my case ambient went up to only 22Âº C, which hardly creates any issue for my CPU cooler.

Blitz6804, no worries man just letting you know


----------



## kwint

Does anyone know when the new 939 board with the 785g chipset is coming out? I want it so bad....

http://www.tcmagazine.com/comments.p...=29850&catid=2

DO WANT


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kwint* 
Does anyone know when the new 939 board with the 785g chipset is coming out? I want it so bad....

http://www.tcmagazine.com/comments.p...=29850&catid=2

DO WANT

No clue for sure, but I want to get 2 of those and another X2 processor







.


----------



## Hueristic

I hear you have to order them special. Call newegg.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


BlackOmega: Yeah, now that I am down to one card again, I will only need the 750 W. I can likely sell the 1000 W for more than I can sell the 750 W for, but considering I already spent the money for the 1000 W (which I will only get a fraction back of) I might as well keep the 1000 W and sell the 750 W. Besides, this way, if I ever get a WQUXGA or better monitor, I can drop in an HD 5870/5970 to help drive that many pixels somewhere down the line. (I doubt it though, I am likely going to downgrade my resolution to 1080p in favor of like a 40-50" TV.)


 Very true, adn the 1000 watter will A LOT more efficiently especially if you get another card.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hey Omega. You may be interested in the Corsair HX620 for $69.99 after a $50.00 MIR at the egg.


 By the time I amass enough extra cash to spend on the folding rig, especially with the holidays coming, it probably wont be till the end of the year before I get one unfortunately. I'll probably ask for a PSU for Christmas.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz6804, if you're still having heat issues then you may want to think twice before buying a 5970. Stock cooling you'll probably see 80+ Celsius during load which will bump your case ambient up. Overclocking the card will get you close to 100C. The card runs pretty warm. On a positive note the 5970 can easily run off a 650 watt PSU. Most of the power consumption tables I've seen bring total system power to low 400's (this is with a quad and one drive). In my opinion the 5850/5870 is a way better deal.


 This is exactly the reason I "misplaced" my side panel. ATM, my cards idle at 49C (top) and 40C (bottom) @ 50% fan. Even when gaming for a good long while they never go over 70C. When I had the side panel on they would easily idle 10C hotter, if not more so, and load mid to low 80's @ 70% fan. Well that's too hot and too loud for my taste, I think I might look in to some sort of aftermarket cooling for the cards.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
When I had the side panel on they would easily idle 10C hotter, if not more so, and load mid to low 80's @ 70% fan. Well that's too hot and too loud for my taste, I think I might look in to some sort of aftermarket cooling for the cards.

BlackOmega, I would think with the side panel on your airflow would increase and help provide better cooling









How is the cable management inside your case? Do you think there are any dead spots inside?

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Very true, adn the 1000 watter will A LOT more efficiently especially if you get another card.


And will be better able to power water cooling equipment if circumstances ever allow.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
And will be better able to power water cooling equipment if circumstances ever allow.

That's true and the less strain on your system's PSU, the better.

Earlier I stumbled across a PSU at work in a machine they were tossing out that has it's own switch for turning it on or off and could run it exclusively for the pump system. It's currently in use right now but I can set it up if needed.


----------



## mattliston

lol am I the only one that sees a 1000 watt PSU as running both my computer and a homemade car stereo setup for music to blast while on the computer? ha ha ha ha

I say that because Im on my 430 thats overpowering my computer quite nicely, and 1000 watts would leave me with nearly 650-700 watts to throw at a car cd player head unit and a pair of 6.5 component setup. :EvilLaughAtApartmentNeighbors:


----------



## pez

Wow a S939 board still coming out? That's pretty epic. I wonder how well it would OC.


----------



## mattliston

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Wow a S939 board still coming out? That's pretty epic. I wonder how well it would OC.

people use the word epic way too much










I think since they have had so much time to work on it, seeing how old 939 is, it better overclock like a son of a gun on crack









at least I hope so. what are some OC rivals it might have? a DFI board? Im not very wise int eh ways of 939 mobo's apparently


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *mattliston*   people use the word epic way too much








  
 LOL here you go.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mattliston*


people use the word epic way too much










I think since they have had so much time to work on it, seeing how old 939 is, it better overclock like a son of a gun on crack









at least I hope so. what are some OC rivals it might have? a DFI board? Im not very wise int eh ways of 939 mobo's apparently










Haha I felt epic was necessary since it's nearly impossible to find 939 era stuff at an affordable/reasonable price.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, I would think with the side panel on your airflow would increase and help provide better cooling









How is the cable management inside your case? Do you think there are any dead spots inside?

Good luck


 Cable management is decent for the most part, and as far as I know there are no dead spots. My only issue at the moment is the balance of intake to exhaust CFM. I have 2 intake fans on the front, the bottom supplies fresh air for the HDD's, bottom GPU and the PSU. The upper fan supplies air for the top GPU, and both the NB and SB. 
Then of course I have my BT which has my Xiggy Dk fan (89CFM), and the only exhaust fan I have is 1 120mm. I need to add another one at least if I were to close up the case. I haven't changed my configuration since using my 939, so I'm not running any top fans as those would cause poor temps on my DFI, however, with the location of the DrMos heat sink (to the left of the CPU socket), it might actually be beneficial to cooling.









At any rate, from what I've noticed, overall temps stay lower with the side panel off. And that's the whole system in general, all components and peripherals, as they all get an ample supply of "fresh" air, not some air that has already been heated cooling something else. I'll experiment around with it and post up my results.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


And will be better able to power water cooling equipment if circumstances ever allow.


 I've been becoming more and more curious about water cooling. I've been thinking about trying that out before I go more exotic.









What's your opinion of that Corsair H50 CPU cooler?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Wow a S939 board still coming out? That's pretty epic. I wonder how well it would OC.


 Yes sir, that AsRock board is nice. I wish I had the extra cash for one. I wonder if you can control IMC voltage independently like on the AM3's. If so, that would be very nice, I would imagine that it would yield MUCH better overclocking results. 
I have this theory as to why it's harder to get good results with 939's/AM2. Unlike the AM3, the IMC (CPU-NB) is not adjustable on the 939's. So this thought ran through my head: when increasing CPU voltage on a 939 you also raise the IMC voltage, well from my AM3 testing I've found that too much IMC (CPU-NB) voltage caused _more_ instability rather than helping stabilize it. In my theory this is _exactly_ why it's so hard to get above 3.0/3.1 stable. If the CPU-NB voltage is indeed separate from the CPU voltage on this new AsRock board, then I would imagine that we should be seeing some really nice overclocks, provided you can get the HTT high enough

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


LOL here you go. 





 That's a great song.







I remember when it came out.









And a little off topic: Well I got that smokin black friday deal on a HDTV from Target, 32" for $246







. At any rate, I hooked everything up and used that new (to me anyway) method of hooking stuff up using the YPbPr connectors from my DVD player. Well when I watched a movie (300) it only plays at 480i, which is OK I suppose but it makes the picture sort of pixelated. Why isn't it playing at 720? I imagine that, that would make the picture sharper. 
I'm a little out of the loop on TV/home audio as I don't mess with it as much anymore. 
Any ideas?


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Yes sir, that AsRock board is nice. I wish I had the extra cash for one. I wonder if you can control IMC voltage independently like on the AM3's. If so, that would be very nice, I would imagine that it would yield MUCH better overclocking results. 
I have this theory as to why it's harder to get good results with 939's/AM2. Unlike the AM3, the IMC (CPU-NB) is not adjustable on the 939's. So this thought ran through my head: when increasing CPU voltage on a 939 you also raise the IMC voltage, well from my AM3 testing I've found that too much IMC (CPU-NB) voltage caused _more_ instability rather than helping stabilize it. In my theory this is _exactly_ why it's so hard to get above 3.0/3.1 stable. If the CPU-NB voltage is indeed separate from the CPU voltage on this new AsRock board, then I would imagine that we should be seeing some really nice overclocks, provided you can get the HTT high enough


I noticed that same thing with the nb voltage with my AM2+/AM3 board both when OC'ing my quad and the week or two that I had the 720BE.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
I noticed that same thing with the nb voltage with my AM2+/AM3 board both when OC'ing my quad and the week or two that I had the 720BE.

Man I'm really curious about this board now.









Have you read any reviews where they mention if the CPU-NB is adjustable?


----------



## mattliston

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
LOL here you go. 












that was hilarious lol I hate to admit it, but I listened to taht whole thing









Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Haha I felt epic was necessary since it's nearly impossible to find 939 era stuff at an affordable/reasonable price.

true that. I have been looking online for quite some time, but I cant even find a decent OC'able board for less then 40 bucks that fits my mATX case

I found plenty of regular ATX size ones , both on this site and abroad, though

either way =>







its the weekend!!!


----------



## Tator Tot

@BlackOmega: Actually, the CPU Voltage on K8 chips was the voltage for everything on the chip. So it would be impossible to control it separately. But your IMC on K8's got voltage as needed. But putting your CPU at 1.6 did not mean that your IMC got 1.6v

A big draw back of K8 is that it's architecture was not designed to go up so high in clock speed. (for standard/stock chips atleast, that's not counting want some of us can pull from them. ) 
K10 (Phenom I's) were designed to run up to 3.0ghz normally, but that ended up being a flop.

K10.5 pretty much is K10 revision 2, and they fixed everything, and designed the chips to go up to 3.8ghz under normal conditions.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


That's a great song.







I remember when it came out.









And a little off topic: Well I got that smokin black friday deal on a HDTV from Target, 32" for $246







. At any rate, I hooked everything up and used that new (to me anyway) method of hooking stuff up using the YPbPr connectors from my DVD player. Well when I watched a movie (300) it only plays at 480i, which is OK I suppose but it makes the picture sort of pixelated. Why isn't it playing at 720? I imagine that, that would make the picture sharper. 
I'm a little out of the loop on TV/home audio as I don't mess with it as much anymore. 
Any ideas?












I imagine your video source is only putting out 480i and yes that will make a big difference in the image quality. Try standard Def TV signals from Comcast or other cable sources. You won't be impressed w/image quality. When I got my Samsung 40" I hooked it up to standard Def Comcast digital and it was very poor quality to the point that I took the TV back and exchanged it for another one thinking it was the TV. The newer TV's definitely need Higher quality signals to display a crisper image. Any thing lower then 780P will not look good in my opinion. Try to play a Disney movie like Toy Story or Lion King for your kids. You will prolly think the image looks better. The reason the whole movie is all digital so the colors and images are all designed to maximize pixle quality. I don't know a whole lot about it but I do know that once I switched to DirectTV all of my shows that I watch and record are not grainy any more and look way better than the Comcast signal. Oh I also tried DishNetworks and there signal was just a step obove Comcast. That was a couple of years ago now. Dish may have steped up and improved their signal quality by now but I'm not switching back to save a few bucks to find out...

Good Luck w/the new TV.


----------



## pioneerisloud

That's why I love my dad's Toshiba TV. Its a projection screen, but one of the last ones they made. Even at 480i/p, the screen has auto 1080p up-converting, I guess its kinda like AA for TV's. Even at a 480i signal its super clean







.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


@BlackOmega: Actually, the CPU Voltage on K8 chips was the voltage for everything on the chip. So it would be impossible to control it separately. But your IMC on K8's got voltage as needed. But putting your CPU at 1.6 did not mean that your IMC got 1.6v

A big draw back of K8 is that it's architecture was not designed to go up so high in clock speed. (for standard/stock chips atleast, that's not counting want some of us can pull from them. ) 
K10 (Phenom I's) were designed to run up to 3.0ghz normally, but that ended up being a flop.

K10.5 pretty much is K10 revision 2, and they fixed everything, and designed the chips to go up to 3.8ghz under normal conditions.


 O well, then that kind of sucks. I'm still curious to see what kind of BIOS options there are on this board. Wonder how well it clocks.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*











I imagine your video source is only putting out 480i and yes that will make a big difference in the image quality. Try standard Def TV signals from Comcast or other cable sources. You won't be impressed w/image quality. When I got my Samsung 40" I hooked it up to standard Def Comcast digital and it was very poor quality to the point that I took the TV back and exchanged it for another one thinking it was the TV. The newer TV's definitely need Higher quality signals to display a crisper image. Any thing lower then 780P will not look good in my opinion. Try to play a Disney movie like Toy Story or Lion King for your kids. You will prolly think the image looks better. The reason the whole movie is all digital so the colors and images are all designed to maximize pixle quality. I don't know a whole lot about it but I do know that once I switched to DirectTV all of my shows that I watch and record are not grainy any more and look way better than the Comcast signal. Oh I also tried DishNetworks and there signal was just a step obove Comcast. That was a couple of years ago now. Dish may have steped up and improved their signal quality by now but I'm not switching back to save a few bucks to find out...

Good Luck w/the new TV.


 Thanks N2, it very well could be that the DVD player only outputs a 480i signal. 
I was talking to my brother earlier and he says that no matter what you may perceive with image quality most TV providers only broadcast a 720p/i signal, so unless you watch a blue ray movie you're not really going to notice a difference.
And we just set up an appointment with DirectTV for them to come out and hook up the HD box, does your DirectTV Box have an HDMI port on it?

And this TV is only temporary until we get a 42" (possibly 50" depending), then it'll become my monitor









Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


That's why I love my dad's Toshiba TV. Its a projection screen, but one of the last ones they made. Even at 480i/p, the screen has auto 1080p up-converting, I guess its kinda like AA for TV's. Even at a 480i signal its super clean







.


 Yea projectors are really nice, a buddy of mine used to sell and install projection units, the really nice thing about them is that you can use a wall as the screen. The one he had set up at his house the wall he projected it on was 9' x 12', and the image quality was superb. When we finally buy a house I'll probably wind up getting something like that.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


@BlackOmega: Actually, the CPU Voltage on K8 chips was the voltage for everything on the chip. So it would be impossible to control it separately. But your IMC on K8's got voltage as needed. But putting your CPU at 1.6 did not mean that your IMC got 1.6v

A big draw back of K8 is that it's architecture was not designed to go up so high in clock speed. (for standard/stock chips atleast, that's not counting want some of us can pull from them. ) 
K10 (Phenom I's) were designed to run up to 3.0ghz normally, but that ended up being a flop.

K10.5 pretty much is K10 revision 2, and they fixed everything, and designed the chips to go up to 3.8ghz under normal conditions.


Tator, excellent info









BlackOmega, also at the time the NB Frequency was not a separate component like it is now.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well when I watched a movie (300) it only plays at 480i, which is OK I suppose but it makes the picture sort of pixelated. Why isn't it playing at 720? I imagine that, that would make the picture sharper. 
I'm a little out of the loop on TV/home audio as I don't mess with it as much anymore.


BlackOmega, 720 is only for HD DVD/Blu-ray movies. Most wide screen DVD's (enhanced definition) are all 480p (720x480). Full screen (standard 4:3) are usually 480i (interlaced). If you're using component cables and a progressive player then you should be seeing 480p. Some of the upconverting boxes will make the movie look clearer and smoother but it's not really "Blue-ray" quality. For a upconverting box you'll need a HDMI/DVI cable. Watch your DVD movie in wide screen mode. It should look better versus full screen.

Good luck


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


O well, then that kind of sucks. I'm still curious to see what kind of BIOS options there are on this board. Wonder how well it clocks.

Thanks N2, it very well could be that the DVD player only outputs a 480i signal. 
I was talking to my brother earlier and he says that no matter what you may perceive with image quality most TV providers only broadcast a 720p/i signal, so unless you watch a blue ray movie you're not really going to notice a difference.
And we just set up an appointment with DirectTV for them to come out and hook up the HD box, does your DirectTV Box have an HDMI port on it?

And this TV is only temporary until we get a 42" (possibly 50" depending), then it'll become my monitor









* Yea projectors are really nice, a buddy of mine used to sell and install projection units, the really nice thing about them is that you can use a wall as the screen. The one he had set up at his house the wall he projected it on was 9' x 12', and the image quality was superb. When we finally buy a house I'll probably wind up getting something like that.*


I think I must've made a mistake on my post. Its a projection screen, but its not a "projector". Its a regular old big screen TV, it has a flat screen, but its not an LCD or plasma. And it has by far the best picture I've ever seen too.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I think I must've made a mistake on my post. Its a projection screen, but its not a "projector". Its a regular old big screen TV, it has a flat screen, but its not an LCD or plasma. And it has by far the best picture I've ever seen too.


Pioneerisloud, isn't it being displayed on the screen via projector though? Are you referring to a "rear projection tv"?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pioneerisloud, isn't it being displayed on the screen via projector though? Are you referring to a "rear projection tv"?


Rear Projection TV I guess. Its one of the last models that were released though...really nice







.


----------



## N2Gaming

@Omega Yes my DirectTV HD DVR has the HDMI cable.







Along w/the Componant cables and a ton of other connectors.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


@Omega Yes my DirectTV HD DVR has the HDMI cable.







Along w/the Componant cables and a ton of other connectors.










Our Dish Network has the same (HDMI, Component, Composite, S-Vid, and Coax.). It also has Optical out for audio.

Just figured I'd compare your DirectTV to DishNetwork







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Our Dish Network has the same (HDMI, Component, Composite, S-Vid, and Coax.). It also has Optical out for audio.

Just figured I'd compare your DirectTV to DishNetwork







.


 Yeah the image quality between the two is like night and day though. I'd still have comcrap if they did not screw me out of a payment I maid to the wrong account. Over all I'd have to say I am quite pleased w/my move to AT&T DSL Pro, Majic Jack for Lan Line Phone service and Direct TV.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Rear Projection TV I guess. Its one of the last models that were released though...really nice







.


Pioneerisloud, ahhh ok. I actually have one of those hehe. It's a few years old...Panasonic 52". There is three different types of displays for those (LCD, DLP and CRT). Mine is LCD. They still actually make those types of TV's. Just recently I saw a 70 something rear projection tv from Mitsubishi. Kind of big


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Pioneerisloud, ahhh ok. I actually have one of those hehe. It's a few years old...Panasonic 52". There is three different types of displays for those (LCD, DLP and CRT). Mine is LCD. They still actually make those types of TV's. Just recently I saw a 70 something rear projection tv from Mitsubishi. Kind of big










Yeah I don't honestly know what type it is. Its a rear projection tv, that's for sure. And its I'd say MAYBE 2 years old. Its a Toshiba 56", like I said, even with 480i/p, it automatically converts it to 1080p...kinda like AA. Looks awesome, I love it.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Man I'm really curious about this board now.









Have you read any reviews where they mention if the CPU-NB is adjustable?


Oh, no, just heard about the board when I read it in this thread haha.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mattliston*









that was hilarious lol I hate to admit it, but I listened to taht whole thing









true that. I have been looking online for quite some time, but I cant even find a decent OC'able board for less then 40 bucks that fits my mATX case

I found plenty of regular ATX size ones , both on this site and abroad, though

either way =>







its the weekend!!!










Haha, you should buy my old case then and hit up a board xP.

Oh guys...BTW, this goes for everyone...if anyone needs a mid-tower...Antec P180 to be exact...I have one I need to get rid of







.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Oh guys...BTW, this goes for everyone...if anyone needs a mid-tower...Antec P180 to be exact...I have one I need to get rid of







.


Pez, I think that post should belong in the For Sale section


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, 720 is only for HD DVD/Blu-ray movies. Most wide screen DVD's (enhanced definition) are all 480p (720x480). Full screen (standard 4:3) are usually 480i (interlaced). If you're using component cables and a progressive player then you should be seeing 480p. Some of the upconverting boxes will make the movie look clearer and smoother but it's not really "Blue-ray" quality. For a upconverting box you'll need a HDMI/DVI cable. Watch your DVD movie in wide screen mode. It should look better versus full screen.

Good luck










 For the video connect from the DVD player to the TV I am using the YPbPr ports + 2 audio ports, all of which use RCA cables. The 3 that go for the video I used some old monster cable RCA's I had laying around from my car audio stuff. The 2 audio ones are some little cheapo's, but whatever, they work.

Here's what Wiki said about YPbPr:
YPbPr is a color space encoding scheme that was developed to save on cable bandwidth requirements while separating the signal enough to provide a quality image.

Signals that use YPbPr, like component video, offer enough separation of the signals that no multiplexing is needed, so the quality of the extracted image is generally near identical to the signal before encoding.
 Which is why I decided to use that port on the DVD player. And the image quality is considerably better than what I have coming from my Satellite box, which is just using a coax cable. The TV warned my that my image quality was going to be crappy if I used coax and it highly suggested that I connect it differently whether it be HDMI or YPbPr. I had no choice though, the box isn't hi-def so it's not like it would make a difference if I used RCA's or coax.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I think I must've made a mistake on my post. Its a projection screen, but its not a "projector". Its a regular old big screen TV, it has a flat screen, but its not an LCD or plasma. And it has by far the best picture I've ever seen too.


 Nope nope, my mistake. I thought you meant projection tv. Like as in it projected on to something.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


@Omega Yes my DirectTV HD DVR has the HDMI cable.







Along w/the Componant cables and a ton of other connectors.










 Well I'm not getting the DVR, just the HD box. If I had a DVR I might actually watch TV more than 2 hours per week.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
For the video connect from the DVD player to the TV I am using the YPbPr ports + 2 audio ports, all of which use RCA cables. The 3 that go for the video I used some old monster cable RCA's I had laying around from my car audio stuff. The 2 audio ones are some little cheapo's, but whatever, they work.

BlackOmega, correct so with component cables you should be able to run your dvd movies in 480p. My DVR from TW uses components cables and my 1080i shows look pretty good. They may actually look better with a HDMI cable but eh doesn't really bother me. There are some nuts out there that spend thousands on cables alone


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, correct so with component cables you should be able to run your dvd movies in 480p. My DVR from TW uses components cables and my 1080i shows look pretty good. They may actually look better with a HDMI cable but eh doesn't really bother me. There are some nuts out there that spend thousands on cables alone









If I remember correctly:

Composite (RCA) = 480i/p
S-Video = 540p
Component = 720p
HDMI = 1080p

I could be wrong, but I'm about 99% sure that these are the limitations of each type of cable. Hope it helps.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Pez, I think that post should belong in the For Sale section









Oh yeah, I know







. I have a thread up for...just kinda trying to get it gone fast :/, but it's hard to sell cases.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, correct so with component cables you should be able to run your dvd movies in 480p. My DVR from TW uses components cables and my 1080i shows look pretty good. They may actually look better with a HDMI cable but eh doesn't really bother me. *There are some nuts out there that spend thousands on cables alone*









I know of people like this, I worked with one guy who spent $800 on a set of silver speaker cables. It was actually pretty comical, he was touting these cables as being the best on the planet because they were silver. Me and him got in to a debate about which metal is the best for the signal. He of course was saying silver and I said gold was better. I asked him to show me the cables, they were very fancy indeed, but the ends of the cables were gold. So I simply asked him "if silver is so much better why are the terminals gold?"
















Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
If I remember correctly:

Composite (RCA) = 480i/p
S-Video = 540p
Component = 720p
HDMI = 1080p

I could be wrong, but I'm about 99% sure that these are the limitations of each type of cable. Hope it helps.

Here's what Wiki said about that:

YPbPr cables are not physically different from composite video cables and can be used interchangeably. This means that the yellow RCA Connector cable commonly packaged with most audio/visual equipment can be used in place of the YPbPr connectors, provided the end user is careful to keep track of the colors (i.e. green should attach to green even if the cord being used is color-coded yellow).


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
If I remember correctly:

Composite (RCA) = 480i/p
S-Video = 540p
Component = 720p
HDMI = 1080p

I could be wrong, but I'm about 99% sure that these are the limitations of each type of cable. Hope it helps.

Pioneerisloud, in regards to component...the signal can do 1080p however protected content probably won't allow it on the output end. You can thank Hollywood for that. 1080i over component is possible though. If it's analog it can do it









Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Here's what Wiki said about that:

YPbPr cables are not physically different from composite video cables and can be used interchangeably. This means that the yellow RCA Connector cable commonly packaged with most audio/visual equipment can be used in place of the YPbPr connectors, provided the end user is careful to keep track of the colors (i.e. green should attach to green even if the cord being used is color-coded yellow).

BlackOmega, I got a better picture when I went from composite to component. My dvd movies were a bit clearer. I guess you could say the change was noticeable.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, *I got a better picture when I went from composite to component*. My dvd movies were a bit clearer. I guess you could say the change was noticeable.

Now you must explain the difference to me. I just read an article about it that says that there really isn't a difference between RCA and component cables. So that would mean to me that they can carry the 720 signal.
Aside from that, the RCA cables I am using are of really high quality, with gold terminals, and some hardcore shielding (meant for cars), and the wire inside is so fine it literally feels like hair.

EDIT: So pio's chart should be like

Composite (COAX) = 480i/p
S-Video = 540p
Component (RCA) = 720p
HDMI = 1080p


----------



## thlnk3r

BlackOmega, the only thing I can really think of is the components gave me a 480p signal. I could tell the different but it wasn't a HUGE deal. Just FYI component can do a 1080i60 signal.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, the only thing I can really think of is the components gave me a 480p signal. I could tell the different but it wasn't a HUGE deal. Just FYI component can do a 1080i60 signal.

But what is the actual difference between them physically?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
But what is the actual difference between them physically?

BlackOmega, no clue on the build quality as some are more insulated then others, input contacts ect. I think the main difference is the cable count (5 versus 3).


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, I got a better picture when I went from composite to component. My dvd movies were a bit clearer. I guess you could say the change was noticeable.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Now you must explain the difference to me. I just read an article about it that says that there really isn't a difference between RCA and component cables. So that would mean to me that they can carry the 720 signal.

EDIT: So pio's chart should be like

Composite (COAX) = 480i/p
S-Video = 540p
Component (RCA) = 720p
HDMI = 1080p

I'm going to chime in here: The "technology" of composite cables was reused for component cables. The _cables_ are physically the same. My guess is that the limitation comes from the source, and/or the way it splits the video up to three cables. The data can move faster over three cables plus audio than over one cable plus audio.

Another factor, if you used both composite and component cables on component hookups, is that the composite cable is older, and/or was made more cheaply to begin with.


----------



## Blitz6804

As far as I know:

Coax: 576i Analog; signal noise from audio being on same cable
Composite: 576i Analog
S-Video: 576i Analog; cleaner signal than composite
Component: 1080p Analog possible, 1080i more-typical*
DVI: 1920x1200p Digital, subject to HDCP (no audio)**
HDMI 1.1/1.2: 1920x1200p Digital, subject to HDCP; has audio
DVI Dual-Link: 2560x1600p Digital, subject to HDCP
HDMI 1.3: 2560x1600p Digital, subject to HDCP; has audio

*Requires the TV to support it. Since it is analog, it is NOT subject to HDCP. I have been able to connect both my 360 (conduit for HD-DVD) and my PS3 (conduit for Blu-Ray) to a TV over component up to 1080p without issue. HDMI through the same switch box broke HDCP, refusing to display signal. Further, VGA and Component can be used interchangeably, although my memory fails me for the maximum VGA resolution.
**DVI and HDMI can be used interchangeably. Both use HDCP, but the DVI connector does not support audio, by default anyway. ATi cards have started to output audio over the dual-link connectors which when you use their particular DVI to HDMI converter takes the audio into the HDMI. When I use a standard DVI to HDMI adapter on my HD 4870x2s, no audio was output over the cable. If I put ATi's connector, it output.


----------



## pez

I have to say, my Dad bought a 42" Vizio recently and it looks gorgeous. Makes me want to hook up my PC to it via HDMI. God. Actually it made me want to buy a PS3 and AC2.


----------



## N2Gaming

Omega. You should be able to p/u a cheap HDMI cable at any Walmart. I don't quite remember but Direct TV should at least give you a componant cable if not HDMI when you get your new HD box and that's if they are coming out to do an install. If they are just shiping you a new HD box then you may or may not have the HD cables in the box. Good Luck.

Edit: fair warning to all who want the PS3 becuase it plays Blue Ray movies. I know my original released version of the PS3 60GB HDD and Wifi does not have the best quality Blue Ray DVD player but it does the job. Anther thing to watch out for is buying Blu Ray movies. Some film makers made piss poor Blue Ray movies that should not have ever been allowed to be labled Blue Ray. So make sure when and if you spend the extra money on any Blue Ray movie that is says 1080P on the movie case somewhere in the print on the back side of the Blue Ray DVD case.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, no clue on the build quality as some are more insulated then others, input contacts ect. I think the main difference is the cable count (5 versus 3).


 thlnk3r, I've done a little bit more research, the RCA cables are the same as composite cables. I don't think the cables have anything to do with it, as you said it is the _number_ of actual cables that matter. So in that regard I did hook it up using the "component" arrangement since there are 3 video cables and 2 audio cables.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


I'm going to chime in here: The "technology" of composite cables was reused for component cables. The _cables_ are physically the same. My guess is that the limitation comes from the source, and/or the way it splits the video up to three cables. The data can move faster over three cables plus audio than over one cable plus audio.

Another factor, if you used both composite and component cables on component hookups, is that the composite cable is older, and/or was made more cheaply to begin with.


 The cables I used are high quality, each color cable is the diameter of a pencil. They have extensive shielding, because they were intended for car audio, and cars produce A LOT of interference.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


As far as I know:

Coax: 576i Analog; signal noise from audio being on same cable
Composite: 576i Analog
S-Video: 576i Analog; cleaner signal than composite
Component: 1080p Analog possible, 1080i more-typical*
DVI: 1920x1200p Digital, subject to HDCP (no audio)**
HDMI 1.1/1.2: 1920x1200p Digital, subject to HDCP; has audio
DVI Dual-Link: 2560x1600p Digital, subject to HDCP
HDMI 1.3: 2560x1600p Digital, subject to HDCP; has audio

*Requires the TV to support it. Since it is analog, it is NOT subject to HDCP. I have been able to connect both my 360 (conduit for HD-DVD) and my PS3 (conduit for Blu-Ray) to a TV over component up to 1080p without issue. HDMI through the same switch box broke HDCP, refusing to display signal. Further, VGA and Component can be used interchangeably, although my memory fails me for the maximum VGA resolution.
**DVI and HDMI can be used interchangeably. Both use HDCP, but the DVI connector does not support audio, by default anyway. ATi cards have started to output audio over the dual-link connectors which when you use their particular DVI to HDMI converter takes the audio into the HDMI. When I use a standard DVI to HDMI adapter on my HD 4870x2s, no audio was output over the cable. If I put ATi's connector, it output.


 Thanks for that tid bit of info blitz.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Omega. You should be able to p/u a cheap HDMI cable at any Walmart. I don't quite remember but Direct TV should at least give you a componant cable if not HDMI when you get your new HD box and that's if they are coming out to do an install. If they are just shiping you a new HD box then you may or may not have the HD cables in the box. Good Luck.


 Well we have to have someone come out to hook it up. Why? No clue, I guess the technician needs to program the box or something.


----------



## N2Gaming

Just thought I would share a sale on DDR 400/PC3200 1G OCZ Lifetime warranty Value ram that tiger has on sale atm for $25.00 http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...&sku=O261-4906


----------



## mattliston

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Just thought I would share a sale on DDR 400/PC3200 1G OCZ Lifetime warranty Value ram that tiger has on sale atm for $25.00 http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...&sku=O261-4906



strange, my corsair value ram has much tighter timings


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mattliston* 
strange, my corsair value ram has much tighter timings

Hmm, your right. I did not look at the timings just the price. Maybe that means it is able to overclock to DDR500 speeds???


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


thlnk3r, I've done a little bit more research, the RCA cables are the same as composite cables. I don't think the cables have anything to do with it, as you said it is the _number_ of actual cables that matter. So in that regard I did hook it up using the "component" arrangement since there are 3 video cables and 2 audio cables.


BlackOmega, I think we're confusing each other. I was posting in respect to composite vs component. Either way you're not going to get 720i/p through rca or composite. I think that was the whole question from the beginning right?


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Just thought I would share a sale on DDR 400/PC3200 1G OCZ Lifetime warranty Value ram that tiger has on sale atm for $25.00 http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...&sku=O261-4906


N2 gaming,

Thanks for the heads up, I'm in the market for just such sticks but the timings seem pretty weak for OCZ mem. Especially considering how tight I have got my cheapo Kingston sticks running now, 2.5-3-3-5-2T @377. Ok it's not that impressive but I was happy


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, I think we're confusing each other. I was posting in respect to composite vs component. Either way you're not going to get 720i/p through rca or composite. I think that was the whole question from the beginning right?









LOL I think we are.

But I think there is confusion surrounding the cables themselves. Well at least regarding RCA, composite and component.

I'll try to clarify it as I've come to understand it.

The difference between the cables between these 3 (RCA, composite and component) is none. The cables are all the same. The only real difference you'll come across is the quality of the cable, but physically they're 1 and the same.
With that said, RCA is the type connector (named after the RCA company). If you notice there is nothing that ever says "RCA" except a logo on a tv.

Now what I believe is meant by "component" or "composite" is the actual connection type, and they both use RCA style connector wires.

So now here is what I believe is meant by it.
Composite: is the 3 wire hook up. 1 yellow for video, 1 red and 1 white for audio.
Component: Is the 5 wire hookup, 3 for video and 2 for audio.

With that said, quality of the cable, whether it's shielded or not, even the length of the cable plays a role in image quality. Basically, you want a high quality cable that's as short as possible for the highest quality image.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
LOL I think we are.

But I think there is confusion surrounding the cables themselves. Well at least regarding RCA, composite and component.

I'll try to clarify it as I've come to understand it.

The difference between the cables between these 3 (RCA, composite and component) is none. The cables are all the same. The only real difference you'll come across is the quality of the cable, but physically they're 1 and the same.
With that said, RCA is the type connector (named after the RCA company). If you notice there is nothing that ever says "RCA" except a logo on a tv.

Now what I believe is meant by "component" or "composite" is the actual connection type, and they both use RCA style connector wires.

*So now here is what I believe is meant by it.
Composite: is the 3 wire hook up. 1 yellow for video, 1 red and 1 white for audio.
Component: Is the 5 wire hookup, 3 for video and 2 for audio.

With that said, quality of the cable, whether it's shielded or not, even the length of the cable plays a role in image quality. Basically, you want a high quality cable that's as short as possible for the highest quality image.*

Bingo!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Bingo!

Not only that I've figured out that the reason my dvd player is only playing @ 480i is because the dang DVD's aren't HD. :swearing:


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Not only that I've figured out that the reason my dvd player is only playing @ 480i is because the dang DVD's aren't HD. :swearing:


Yeah you can't be to carefull when you purchase DVD movies. Look on the back side of the covers. Widescreeen DVD's is useually what I pick.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Yeah you can't be to carefull when you purchase DVD movies. Look on the back side of the covers. Widescreeen DVD's is useually what I pick.


 That's usually what I buy as well, but as far as I can tell, they're still not HD.


----------



## Blitz6804

Widescreen DVDs are still not anything better than, at most, EDTV. That is, 480p.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Now what I believe is meant by "component" or "composite" is the actual connection type, and they both use RCA style connector wires.

So now here is what I believe is meant by it.
Composite: is the 3 wire hook up. 1 yellow for video, 1 red and 1 white for audio.
Component: Is the 5 wire hookup, 3 for video and 2 for audio.

With that said, quality of the cable, whether it's shielded or not, even the length of the cable plays a role in image quality. Basically, you want a high quality cable that's as short as possible for the highest quality image.

BlackOmega, yep that is correct. All are RCA cables BUT composite *cannot* carry an HD signal like component can. This was in response to your first post about why you couldn't get 720p through your dvd player. Also watching a dvd movie via composite will downgrade the dvd quality from 480p to 480i. Standard dvd movies are encoded in progressive scan. That's why I mentioned the component cables and a progressive player in my post here. Make sense?









Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Widescreen DVDs are still not anything better than, at most, EDTV. That is, 480p.

Also mentioned in my post here


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, yep that is correct. All are RCA cables BUT composite *cannot *carry an HD signal like component can. This was in response to your first post about why you couldn't get 720p through your dvd player. Also watching a dvd movie via composite will downgrade the dvd quality from 480p to 480i. Standard dvd movies are encoded in progressive scan. That's why I mentioned the component cables and a progressive player in my post here. Make sense?









Also mentioned in my post here










 So you're saying that even if I have it hooked up using the 5 wire RCA input it still isn't going show more than 480/i resolution?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


So you're saying that even if I have it hooked up using the 5 wire RCA input it still isn't going show more than 480/i resolution?


BlackOmega, if you use component with a progressive scan dvd player then it'll be 480p. High Def which begins at 720 is only for HD DVD and Blu-ray.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, if you use component with a progressive scan dvd player then it'll be 480p. High Def which begins at 720 is only for HD DVD and Blu-ray.

Lol I think we're going around in circles.









Ok lets say I have a DVD player capable of 1080, and I hook it up using the 5 wire method (YPbPr + 2 audio). If I play an HD DVD, will it show at the proper resolution? Or is it still not capable of playing any higher than 480?


----------



## Blitz6804

If your TV supports 1080p over Component, the HD DVD will show at 1080p analog. If it supports only up to 1080i over Component, it will show that. If you use your HD DVD player to watch a DVD being automatically upconverted, the DVD is actually 480p, but the player is scaling it to 1080p. If you do not upconvert, in theory, your TV will do the conversion.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
If your TV supports 1080p over Component, the HD DVD will show at 1080p analog. If it supports only up to 1080i over Component, it will show that. If you use your HD DVD player to watch a DVD being automatically upconverted, the DVD is actually 480p, but the player is scaling it to 1080p. If you do not upconvert, in theory, your TV will do the conversion.

LOL, Thanks Blitz.









So I probably need to get a better DVD player, but I think I'll probably use an HDMI cable if they supply me with on.
I believe the tv is 720p but supports 1080i. Are HD DVD players expensive? The last DVD player I bought was ~4/5 years ago.


----------



## Blitz6804

HD DVD players are no longer made since Blu-Ray won the format war.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


LOL, Thanks Blitz.









So I probably need to get a better DVD player, but I think I'll probably use an HDMI cable if they supply me with on. 
I believe the tv is 720p but supports 1080i. Are HD DVD players expensive? The last DVD player I bought was ~4/5 years ago.











Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


HD DVD players are no longer made since Blu-Ray won the format war.


Thanks Blitz. I think this is where BO was getting confused. Just plain and simple, DVD players are all 480i/p. If you want HD Def then purchase a Blu-ray player. Don't waste your money on a dvd player that upconverts.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


HD DVD players are no longer made since Blu-Ray won the format war.


^This... In my opinion it's worthless to purchase HD DVD's VS Blue Ray DVD movies. I just use my PS3 to play all my movies. I'm thinking you could get a decent Blue Ray player that will play regular DVD's and upscale them to look decent on your new TV. I play movies in my PS3 and they look pretty good for the most part but every now and again I'll watch a movie that was not properly formatted for todays digital media types and the image comes out grainy or the colors are way off. i.e. blacks apear purpleish etc. One example would be the BR movie " The Descent " it looks horable and it's on a Blue Ray DVD...


----------



## h2oxtreme

Hi! I read all the topics with Athlon 64 3200+ Venice oveclocking, but I didn't succed in overclocking mine. I have a Asus A8N5X mainboard, and 2GB of DDR Geil Value. 
I've modified the folowing value in BIOS:
-HT 3x (I mention that my default value is 2x, someone can explain me more about the Hyper Transport?)
-CPU multiplier 9x
-Command Rate 1T (default 2T)
-CPU V from auto to 1.44, to 1.5 but worthless
-CPU freq 220 (it starts but the freq is same, 2000), then 250 but didn't start the windows-it boots but doesn't load the windows, even with 1.5 VCore voltage
-memclock 333MHz.
Here is a screenshot of my proc values








I read about modifing PCI bus freq, mine is set to 100MHz, is it worth to modify it to 67 MHz, as I read?
Basically I want to OC at leat at 2,4 GHz. 
I have a stock cooler, but if I see that the OC is working I'll buy a better cooler. If I raise the FSB higher than 200, in CPU-z it's shows me no more than 200Mhz. And if Iraise higher than 220, the OS don't load. Regarding the HT, default is auto, wich means 5x.

Can you give me some ideas, it's the bus freq locked to maximum 200MHz?
Thank you!


----------



## N2Gaming

Welcome to OCN & the socket 939 cub h2oxtreme.









Does any one else see the irony in the user name and this user not being able to overclock.
















edit: what have you tried so far?


----------



## kwint

Quote:



Hi! I read all the topics with Athlon 64 3200+ Venice oveclocking, but I didn't succed in overclocking mine. I have a Asus A8N5X mainboard, and 2GB of DDR Geil Value.
I've modified the folowing value in BIOS:
-HT 3x (I mention that my default value is 2x, someone can explain me more about the Hyper Transport?)
-CPU multiplier 9x
-Command Rate 1T (default 2T)
-CPU V from auto to 1.44, to 1.5 but worthless
-CPU freq 220 (it starts but the freq is same, 2000), then 250 but didn't start the windows-it boots but doesn't load the windows, even with 1.5 VCore voltage
-memclock 333MHz.


Need more info on your options in your bios...but...

The following is based on a hypothetical cpu that runs a 2.0 ghz stock speed with ram that runs at 333mhz.

You Hyper Transport (HT) is your CPU frequency (200) multiplied by your HT multiplier (default on auto being 5) so therefore, 200x5 = 1000 mhz HT.

Your memory speed is based off of your cpu frequency so if you run at 200 mhz cpu frequency, then your ram will run at 200 mhz (400 effective).

What you want to happen is for your HT to be in between 900 and 1050. So as you may guess, there are multiple ways to get your desired clock speed. ALSO, you need to change your ram divider since you're using value ram. Set the divider to 133. Sorry, but I don't know how exactly to explain how a ram divider works, but I do know for every 1mhz you increase your cpu frequency, the ram speed also goes up 1mhz. You don't want to run value ram higher than it's rated clock speed. Well..you can, but it isn't recommended. The following examples are ways to get to 2.4 ghz on a 2 ghz cpu which is set to 200x10 with a 5x HT multiplier at stock. The ram speeds are in parentheses with the actual speeds with the given OC. Double the ending number, and that would be your effective rate

240x10 with 4x HT multiplier (ram: 166+40=206, 133+40=173, 100+40=140 
300x8 with 3x HT multiplier (ram: 166+100=266, 133+100=233, 100+100=200)
220x11 with 4x HT multiplier (ram: 166+20=188, 133+20=153, 100+20=120)

There are other ways to lower your ram speed, but I'm not all too adept in those areas. I hope what I typed made sense, you're the first person I've helped in this kind of stuff.

Oh, and one last thing. Disable cool n quiet, and cpu center spread, and you should be fine leaving your pci frequency at 100 mhz.


----------



## h2oxtreme

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Welcome to OCN & the socket 939 cub h2oxtreme.









Does any one else see the irony in the user name and this user not being able to overclock.
















edit: what have you tried so far?


Yes, at the first look is irony, but it's refering to water for extreme sport aka I like snowboarding.









I've tried modifing the multiplier to 210, the comp starts but CPU-Z indicates me the same bus speed, 200MHz. I'll try to set Mem freq to 133, as kwint explained me.


----------



## h2oxtreme

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kwint*


Need more info on your options in your bios...but...

The following is based on a hypothetical cpu that runs a 2.0 ghz stock speed with ram that runs at 333mhz.

You Hyper Transport (HT) is your CPU frequency (200) multiplied by your HT multiplier (default on auto being 5) so therefore, 200x5 = 1000 mhz HT.

Your memory speed is based off of your cpu frequency so if you run at 200 mhz cpu frequency, then your ram will run at 200 mhz (400 effective).

What you want to happen is for your HT to be in between 900 and 1050. So as you may guess, there are multiple ways to get your desired clock speed. ALSO, you need to change your ram divider since you're using value ram. Set the divider to 133. Sorry, but I don't know how exactly to explain how a ram divider works, but I do know for every 1mhz you increase your cpu frequency, the ram speed also goes up 1mhz. You don't want to run value ram higher than it's rated clock speed. Well..you can, but it isn't recommended. The following examples are ways to get to 2.4 ghz on a 2 ghz cpu which is set to 200x10 with a 5x HT multiplier at stock. The ram speeds are in parentheses with the actual speeds with the given OC. Double the ending number, and that would be your effective rate

240x10 with 4x HT multiplier (ram: 166+40=206, 133+40=173, 100+40=140 
300x8 with 3x HT multiplier (ram: 166+100=266, 133+100=233, 100+100=200)
220x11 with 4x HT multiplier (ram: 166+20=188, 133+20=153, 100+20=120)

There are other ways to lower your ram speed, but I'm not all too adept in those areas. I hope what I typed made sense, you're the first person I've helped in this kind of stuff.

Oh, and one last thing. Disable cool n quiet, and cpu center spread, and you should be fine leaving your pci frequency at 100 mhz.


 Thank you for this explanation! I'll try tomorrow to do so, because now I have to go. I'll post the results.


----------



## mattliston

I use a 3200+ on a OEM motherboard, and I can clock it to 229 fsb, or 10x multi for 2290 cpu clock

you should put the multiplier back to 10x, and crank teh fsb to 215. test for stability. cpu voltage should be 1.35 at 2.0 ghz, and 1.4 at 2.2, at least it is for me

once you get 215 to work, reboot and try 217. do this, adding 2mhz, and testing for an hour each time if needed


----------



## kwint

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mattliston* 
I use a 3200+ on a OEM motherboard, and I can clock it to 229 fsb, or 10x multi for 2290 cpu clock

you should put the multiplier back to 10x, and crank teh fsb to 215. test for stability. cpu voltage should be 1.35 at 2.0 ghz, and 1.4 at 2.2, at least it is for me

once you get 215 to work, reboot and try 217. do this, adding 2mhz, and testing for an hour each time if needed

He said he only wanted to get it to boot and then after he gets to boot, he was gonna get better cooling.


----------



## mattliston

his stock cooler will work fine for up to 2.5ghz

I think he needs a better motherboard, or something is simply not working correctly


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *h2oxtreme*


Hi! I read all the topics with Athlon 64 3200+ Venice oveclocking, but I didn't succed in overclocking mine. I have a Asus A8N5X mainboard, and 2GB of DDR Geil Value. 
I've modified the folowing value in BIOS:
-HT 3x (I mention that my default value is 2x, someone can explain me more about the Hyper Transport?)
-CPU multiplier 9x
-Command Rate 1T (default 2T)
-CPU V from auto to 1.44, to 1.5 but worthless
-CPU freq 220 (it starts but the freq is same, 2000), then 250 but didn't start the windows-it boots but doesn't load the windows, even with 1.5 VCore voltage
-memclock 333MHz.
Here is a screenshot of my proc values








I read about modifing PCI bus freq, mine is set to 100MHz, is it worth to modify it to 67 MHz, as I read?
Basically I want to OC at leat at 2,4 GHz. 
I have a stock cooler, but if I see that the OC is working I'll buy a better cooler. If I raise the FSB higher than 200, in CPU-z it's shows me no more than 200Mhz. And if Iraise higher than 220, the OS don't load. Regarding the HT, default is auto, wich means 5x.

Can you give me some ideas, it's the bus freq locked to maximum 200MHz?
Thank you!


 Hey h2o









Anyway, looking at your CPUz your HT Link is way too low, as others have pointed out.

As for HTT, well HTT stands for*H*yper *T*ransport *T*echnology. HTT is basically the same thing as what FSB (frontside bus) is on an intel machine. It is the reference clock for your whole system. Why it's 200, I have no idea, maybe AMD liked it that way.

Now you can go about adjusting your processors frequency in 2 ways, either raising the HTT reference clock or changing the CPU multiplier. The equation for that is simple, HTT clock x CPU multiplier = processor speed.
HT Link is also based off of the HTT reference clock, so you'll need to adjust the HTLink multiplier accordingly to keep it's overall speed between 750-1000MHz. Overclocking the HT Link provides no noticeable improvements.

As for RAM there are usually dividers. I believe Asus only gives you options like 100, 133, 166, 200. The way this works is by ratio. It assumes that the HTT reference clock is 200. So at stock speeds you'd set it to 200, this is a 1:1 ratio. So for every MHz you add to the HTT clock, the ram frequency is going to go up that much as well. If I did my calculations correctly 166 [0.83:1] Ratio, 133 [0.665:1] ratio, and of course 100 is [0.5:1].

So the way to figure this out you need this formula (RAM divider x HTT reference clock= SD RAM speed) then you multiply your result by 2, because the RAM is *dual* data rate, and then you'll have your RAM frequency.

So here's an example: HTT clock: 225, RAM divider 166 (0.83)

225 x 0.83= 186.75. 186.75 x 2 = DDR 373.

Try to keep your RAM at or below 200 if you're only running 2 sticks. If you're running 4, for now try to keep them below 166.

Good Luck


----------



## h2oxtreme

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kwint*


Need more info on your options in your bios...but...

The following is based on a hypothetical cpu that runs a 2.0 ghz stock speed with ram that runs at 333mhz.

You Hyper Transport (HT) is your CPU frequency (200) multiplied by your HT multiplier (default on auto being 5) so therefore, 200x5 = 1000 mhz HT.

Your memory speed is based off of your cpu frequency so if you run at 200 mhz cpu frequency, then your ram will run at 200 mhz (400 effective).

What you want to happen is for your HT to be in between 900 and 1050. So as you may guess, there are multiple ways to get your desired clock speed. ALSO, you need to change your ram divider since you're using value ram. Set the divider to 133. Sorry, but I don't know how exactly to explain how a ram divider works, but I do know for every 1mhz you increase your cpu frequency, the ram speed also goes up 1mhz. You don't want to run value ram higher than it's rated clock speed. Well..you can, but it isn't recommended. The following examples are ways to get to 2.4 ghz on a 2 ghz cpu which is set to 200x10 with a 5x HT multiplier at stock. The ram speeds are in parentheses with the actual speeds with the given OC. Double the ending number, and that would be your effective rate

240x10 with 4x HT multiplier (ram: 166+40=206, 133+40=173, 100+40=140 
300x8 with 3x HT multiplier (ram: 166+100=266, 133+100=233, 100+100=200)
220x11 with 4x HT multiplier (ram: 166+20=188, 133+20=153, 100+20=120)

There are other ways to lower your ram speed, but I'm not all too adept in those areas. I hope what I typed made sense, you're the first person I've helped in this kind of stuff.

Oh, and one last thing. Disable cool n quiet, and cpu center spread, and you should be fine leaving your pci frequency at 100 mhz.


In my BIOS (Phoenix AWARD...) the mem clock apear multiplied by two I think, because the minimum value is 200, after that 266.. I've tried 266 MHz with HT multiplier set to 4x, CPU freq 210, and CPU multiplier 10x but in windows showed me 201.5 MHz - BUS speed(CPU freq). Maybe I should upgrade my BIOS version. I didn't succed in getting the BUS speed over 200, although I've tried many combinations.







What do you think, I should upgrade my BIOS to a newer version?


----------



## Blitz6804

For the record BlackOmega, that RAM speed is only true if he is running a 10x multiplier. If he cuts it to 9x, he would be running DDR-368.

h2oxtreme: if you set the bus speed to 210, and it shows in Windows as 201.5, your BIOS is not saving the setting for some reason.


----------



## h2oxtreme

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hey h2o









Anyway, looking at your CPUz your HT Link is way too low, as others have pointed out.

As for HTT, well HTT stands for*H*yper *T*ransport *T*echnology. HTT is basically the same thing as what FSB (frontside bus) is on an intel machine. It is the reference clock for your whole system. Why it's 200, I have no idea, maybe AMD liked it that way.

Now you can go about adjusting your processors frequency in 2 ways, either raising the HTT reference clock or changing the CPU multiplier. The equation for that is simple, HTT clock x CPU multiplier = processor speed.
HT Link is also based off of the HTT reference clock, so you'll need to adjust the HTLink multiplier accordingly to keep it's overall speed between 750-1000MHz. Overclocking the HT Link provides no noticeable improvements.

As for RAM there are usually dividers. I believe Asus only gives you options like 100, 133, 166, 200. The way this works is by ratio. It assumes that the HTT reference clock is 200. So at stock speeds you'd set it to 200, this is a 1:1 ratio. So for every MHz you add to the HTT clock, the ram frequency is going to go up that much as well. If I did my calculations correctly 166 [0.83:1] Ratio, 133 [0.665:1] ratio, and of course 100 is [0.5:1].

So the way to figure this out you need this formula (RAM divider x HTT reference clock= SD RAM speed) then you multiply your result by 2, because the RAM is *dual* data rate, and then you'll have your RAM frequency.

So here's an example: HTT clock: 225, RAM divider 166 (0.83)

225 x 0.83= 186.75. 186.75 x 2 = DDR 373.

Try to keep your RAM at or below 200 if you're only running 2 sticks. If you're running 4, for now try to keep them below 166.

Good Luck










 I don't see how to modiy my HTT freq, only the multiplier, wich was default set to 5x, resulting 1000MHz HT Link. I can only modify CPU freq. It's the same with HTT freq? I'll enter back tomorrow on this forum to see he answer. I have to go now. Thanks!


----------



## h2oxtreme

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


h2oxtreme: if you set the bus speed to 210, and it shows in Windows as 201.5, your BIOS is not saving the setting for some reason.


This means I should upgrade my BIOS, right?


----------



## Blitz6804

How old is the BIOS battery? It would also be a really cool idea to add your system to your signature so we do not need to keep scrolling back to remember what hardware you have.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *h2oxtreme*


I don't see how to modiy my HTT freq, only the multiplier, wich was default set to 5x, resulting 1000MHz HT Link. I can only modify CPU freq. It's the same with HTT freq? I'll enter back tomorrow on this forum to see he answer. I have to go now. Thanks!


 You're thinking of HT Link.









On my old Asus board the HTLink was in a different menu than the CPU and RAM. It's not in "Jumper Free Configuration", it's down lower I can't exactly remember what it was called, something like "chipset".
The feature you're looking for is going to be called "K8 to NB". That's the multiplier you want to adjust for HT link.

And I believe what Asus calls "CPU frequency" is the HTT reference clock.


----------



## FnkDctr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *h2oxtreme*


Hi! I read all the topics with Athlon 64 3200+ Venice oveclocking, but I didn't succed in overclocking mine. I have a Asus A8N5X mainboard, and 2GB of DDR Geil Value. 
I've modified the folowing value in BIOS:
-HT 3x (I mention that my default value is 2x, someone can explain me more about the Hyper Transport?)
-CPU multiplier 9x
-Command Rate 1T (default 2T)
-CPU V from auto to 1.44, to 1.5 but worthless
-CPU freq 220 (it starts but the freq is same, 2000), then 250 but didn't start the windows-it boots but doesn't load the windows, even with 1.5 VCore voltage
-memclock 333MHz.
Here is a screenshot of my proc values








I read about modifing PCI bus freq, mine is set to 100MHz, is it worth to modify it to 67 MHz, as I read?
Basically I want to OC at leat at 2,4 GHz. 
I have a stock cooler, but if I see that the OC is working I'll buy a better cooler. If I raise the FSB higher than 200, in CPU-z it's shows me no more than 200Mhz. And if Iraise higher than 220, the OS don't load. Regarding the HT, default is auto, wich means 5x.

Can you give me some ideas, it's the bus freq locked to maximum 200MHz?
Thank you!



Ok, first, you may want to google that motherboard. A lot of people have had the same issue when overclocking and using CPU-z.

I would suggest trying sandra, everest, or benchmarks to verify overclock settings. If still nothing, I'd try a bios update.

Your HT needs to stay under 1000 to remain stable. FSBx5 = 1,000. so if you increase the fsb, then lower the HT multi to 4x and you will be fine.

Your default memory timings should also be 1t, 2t is only if you have 4 memory sticks. 2 memory sticks should always be set to 1t.

The CPU-V is also high for air cooling. I wouldn't suggest going above 1.45 or 1.4 on your current system for such minor overclocks. Obviously 250fsb is a huge overclock and you will probably need to adjust memory timings and other settings to get that to boot.

Is your ram pc3200(400mhz)? It's running at 333mhz, which is why I ask. Also, how many sticks do you have? Can you try adjusting your fsb and then using another program to detects the changes?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *h2oxtreme*


Yes, at the first look is irony, but it's refering to water for extreme sport aka I like snowboarding.









I've tried modifing the multiplier to 210, the comp starts but CPU-Z indicates me the same bus speed, 200MHz. I'll try to set Mem freq to 133, as kwint explained me.










Oh how cool.







I use to have a pretty tricked out Kawi stand up 550 but I sold it last summer to help pay off some of my debt.









That is weird that your FSB is reverting back to stock settings. Is that the only setting that does that or do all your settings do that like your cpu multi, ram divider, cpu/ram voltages etc etc?


----------



## FnkDctr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


That is weird that your FSB is reverting back to stock settings. Is that the only setting that does that or do all your settings do that like your cpu multi, ram divider, cpu/ram voltages etc etc?


Actually, a lot of people said it's just CPU-z not reading the overclock correct. Even a bios flash wont change this. Try other software before u overclock like crazy or assume there is no overclock being applied.


----------



## Blitz6804

Windows should even show the approximate CPU speed. 210x10 would show as 2.1 GHz in XP, and 201x10 would show as 2.0 GHz.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


As for HTT, well HTT stands for*H*yper *T*ransport *T*echnology. HTT is basically the same thing as what FSB (frontside bus) is on an intel machine. It is the reference clock for your whole system. Why it's 200, I have no idea, maybe AMD liked it that way.


BO, not be rude or anything but HyperTransport Technology isn't the reference clock speed. The HT Link speed or HyperTransport would be 1000Mhz. The HT Clock speed is the reference clock speed (ie. 200Mhz). Just thought I'd clarify so we don't get all confused


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BO, not be rude or anything but HyperTransport Technology isn't the reference clock speed. The HT Link speed or HyperTransport would be 1000Mhz. The HT Clock speed is the reference clock speed (ie. 200Mhz). Just thought I'd clarify so we don't get all confused



















All of the information is kind of jumbled regarding HT, HTT. Not to mention with intel throwing the HyperThreading in there doesn't help.

Also, another odd thing to note is that HT stands for HyperTransport. And I've seen HT and HTT used almost interchangeably.
As for the HT link, to me that was always HTL or LDT.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 









All of the information is kind of jumbled regarding HT, HTT. Not to mention with intel throwing the HyperThreading in there doesn't help.

Also, another odd thing to note is that HT stands for HyperTransport. And I've seen HT and HTT used almost interchangeably.
As for the HT link, to me that was always HTL or LDT.

BO, I commonly use these since they are easier to understand for most:

HT Link speed - HyperTransport
HT Clock speed - Reference clock speed

The problem is a lot of board manufacturers use different terminology which can be confusing at times


----------



## N2Gaming

And that is exactely why I just say FSB & HT multi and link spd.

I still get confused between all those different terminologies.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Please welcome our newest member, JeremyWW!
















And a belated welcome as well to our other new members. Sorry I've been out of circulation for so long.







Too many big things happening everywhere but here on OCN for me these days.

Nonetheless, great to see this group chugging along as well as it's always done. You guys are seriously the best.


----------



## JeremyWW

Hi Folks,

Please help...







I'm new to this and find it hard to read pages of techy explanations on overclocking - I end up more confused than I was to start with! I need to make a baby step forward and I've tried a couple of things that didn't work - see my post here. I'd appreciate a few steps I could take although, for example, I could not explicitly see how to lower memory speed in my BIOS. I also get very nervous when people give me one line advice like - "turn the voltage up to 1.55..." - why?...what's the risk if I tweak the wrong thing? Don't get me wrong - I _want_ to get going with this but I need some brief / succinct technical direction with a few logical steps to take. If I could see how to post a screenshot of my BIOS here, I would...

Thanks in anticipation...


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JeremyWW*


Hi Folks,

Please help...







I'm new to this and find it hard to read pages of techy explanations on overclocking - I end up more confused than I was to start with! I need to make a baby step forward and I've tried a couple of things that didn't work - see my post here. I'd appreciate a few steps I could take although, for example, I could not explicitly see how to lower memory speed in my BIOS. I also get very nervous when people give me one line advice like - "turn the voltage up to 1.55..." - why?...what's the risk if I tweak the wrong thing? Don't get me wrong - I _want_ to get going with this but I need some brief / succinct technical direction with a few logical steps to take. If I could see how to post a screenshot of my BIOS here, I would...

Thanks in anticipation...


Jeremy, So what X2 cpu are you running, eg: 3800, 4400, ....
A screen shot of the bios may not be needed but a CPUID screen shot would be helpful. Maybe you did that in an older post and I missed it.

never mind, i see the CPUID link now, yeh a 4400 should hit at least 2.4 or better with prob no voltage increase, and stock cooling from what I have researched. Are the setting you have listed in that ID stock, or "optimized default " in your bios?


----------



## JeremyWW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


Jeremy, So what X2 cpu are you running, eg: 3800, 4400, ....
A screen shot of the bios may not be needed but a CPUID screen shot would be helpful. Maybe you did that in an older post and I missed it.


The link is in my sig...


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JeremyWW*


The link is in my sig...










Sorry, I was not paying attention, anyway. I would try a 10x multi, turn your mem down to 333, set your HTT(FSB) to 240, the core voltage at maybe 1.37 or 1.39, and most importantly set your HT multi to 3x, 4x if it will run it. I have definetly found that an HT link over 1000 is all bad news in most cases. As I am sure you hvae read 750/800-1000 is optimal. If all that runs ok, let us know, and we can work it up from there. What kind of memory do you have anyway, the CPUID is not listing the manufacturer.


----------



## JeremyWW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


Sorry, I was not paying attention, anyway. I would try a 10x multi, turn your mem down to 333, set your HTT(FSB) to 240, the core voltage at maybe 1.37 or 1.39, and most importantly set your HT multi to 3x, 4x if it will run it. I have definetly found that an HT link over 1000 is all bad news in most cases. As I am sure you hvae read 750/800-1000 is optimal. If all that runs ok, let us know, and we can work it up from there. What kind of memory do you have anyway, the CPUID is not listing the manufacturer.


Supertalent - It's detailed in the system info at the bottom of my posts...

I've tried at 4X, I _think_ I turned the mem down (all I can see in BIOS is something like 'CPU / DDR Ratio' which I set to 1/1.66), so I'm really not sure how to turn the mem speed down). 240 FSB! I had it at 215 / 220 with what I tried and got hardware failures in the stability tests (I was using Everest then).


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JeremyWW*


Supertalent - It's detailed in the system info at the bottom of my posts...

I've tried at 4X, I _think_ I turned the mem down (all I can see in BIOS is something like 'CPU / DDR Ratio' which I set to 1/1.66), so I'm really not sure how to turn the mem speed down). 240 FSB! I had it at 215 / 220 with what I tried and got hardware failures in the stability tests (I was using Everest then).


give me a minute I am reading your MB manual...brb


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JeremyWW* 
Supertalent - It's detailed in the system info at the bottom of my posts...

I've tried at 4X, I _think_ I turned the mem down (all I can see in BIOS is something like 'CPU / DDR Ratio' which I set to 1/1.66), so I'm really not sure how to turn the mem speed down). 240 FSB! I had it at 215 / 220 with what I tried and got hardware failures in the stability tests (I was using Everest then).

Ok, I have the manual I believe for your board/bios. Under the "MB intelligent tweaker" HT Frequency should equal 4x, CPU Frequency=240, K8 CPU clock ratio, what are your options? DDR clock/ Timing mode: what are your options? Is 2/1.66 an option, resulting in what i believe would be ddr 333.


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JeremyWW* 
Supertalent - It's detailed in the system info at the bottom of my posts...

I've tried at 4X, I _think_ I turned the mem down (all I can see in BIOS is something like 'CPU / DDR Ratio' which I set to 1/1.66), so I'm really not sure how to turn the mem speed down). 240 FSB! I had it at 215 / 220 with what I tried and got hardware failures in the stability tests (I was using Everest then).

A couple more things I have been told...If there is an option to do so, disable "spred spectrum" in your bios, and definetly disable the "cool and quiet" feature if applicable.


----------



## JeremyWW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311* 
A couple more things I have been told...If there is an option to do so, disable "spred spectrum" in your bios, and definetly disable the "cool and quiet" feature if applicable.

OK, thanks. I'll have to tackle this later as I have to do some _real_ work!







I'll give it a go and get back to you...thanks for your time so far.


----------



## h2oxtreme

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
That is weird that your FSB is reverting back to stock settings. Is that the only setting that does that or do all your settings do that like your cpu multi, ram divider, cpu/ram voltages etc etc?

Only the FSB is reverting to 200MHz.

Regarding the memory, how could I modify the timings, lowering or highering? And wich of the values (CL, Ras...). I don't have no idee in how to overclock memory...
Here are my memory specs:









In the JumperFree BIOS menu is a setting of PCI Clock set to 100 MHZ, an another Syncronisation of PCI clock, with three settings Auto, To CPU and another one. About what are these settings?


----------



## Blitz6804

As far as I know, that controls PCI speed. You absolutely do NOT want to set that "To CPU." If you do so, you will start overclocking your PCI slots past the recommended 33 MHz, which carries few benefits and many faults.

JeremyWW: As eternalenergy311 said, 2/1.66 means you are running your RAM on the DDR-333 divider. With an 11x multi and a 206 HTT, that works out to be DDR-324. (The explanation for which is not relevant.) To test the limits of your board, you will want to set the memory divider to 2/1 (DDR-200), reduce your K8 multiplier to 6x if possible, and slowly increase the HTT (or FSB) until you can no longer run Prime 95 (or Orthos, the link is in the first post) with stability. When you can no longer run it, write down the number and decrease your HyperTransport Link to 4x. Continue until unstable, record, and drop to 3x, et cetera. When you can no longer be stable no matter what your HyperTrasport Link is set to, we are 1/3 of the way to methodically determining your best system overclock. List all the numbers you have gathered here. (That is, list them like 5x = 220, 4x = 250, 3x = 320, et cetera.)

Next, you will want to put your CPU multiplier back to 11x. Slowly increase the HTT again until you are unstable. Record the speed and mutliplier, then decrease by one. Continue as before. When you get the CPU to being unstable no matter what, post that here as well. (Listed as before; 11x = 210, 10x = 240, et cetera.) Make sure you adjust your HyperTransport Link in accordance with the previous step.

Lastly, set your RAM to 2/2, your CPU back to 6x, and slowly move up the HTT again. When you are no longer stable, decrease your RAM to 2/1.66, then 2/1.33, et cetera. Again, list all the speeds you record.

With these three sets of numbers we can help you get the perfect overclock. (In theory.)


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BO, I commonly use these since they are easier to understand for most:

HT Link speed - HyperTransport
HT Clock speed - Reference clock speed

The problem is a lot of board manufacturers use different terminology which can be confusing at times










 Those dang mobo manufacturers :swearing:

I did a tad bit more reading if there is a difference between the 3 and it seems that technically, there really isn't. It's not HT ref clock, or HTT or HT but simply the "reference clock".

Man it's really difficult to find a direct answer to that question.


----------



## thlnk3r

Good posts eternalenergy311 and Blitz!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Those dang mobo manufacturers :swearing:

I did a tad bit more reading if there is a difference between the 3 and it seems that technically, there really isn't. It's not HT ref clock, or HTT or HT but simply the "reference clock".

Man it's really difficult to find a direct answer to that question.

BlackOmega, what's funny too is that this guide refers to "HTT" being the reference clock speed too. However for AMD guys HTT usually stands for HyperTransport Technology. Some also get it confused with Hyperthreading Technology


----------



## N2Gaming

Welcome to the club JeremyWW.


----------



## JeremyWW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


Ok, I have the manual I believe for your board/bios. Under the "MB intelligent tweaker" HT Frequency should equal 4x, CPU Frequency=240, K8 CPU clock ratio, what are your options? DDR clock/ Timing mode: what are your options? Is 2/1.66 an option, resulting in what i believe would be ddr 333.


*K8 CPU Clock Ratio:*

Switching to Manual gives a range from 'Auto' through 'x5, x5.5, x6...to x11'

*DDR Clock / Timing Mode:*

Yes, 2/1.66 is an option. I also get a separate setting 'DDR Timing' lighting up having switched DDR Clock / Timing Mode to Manual. It, in turn, lights up a whole list of options such as 'CAS# latency (Tcl)', 'Min RAS# active time (Tras)', 'RAS# to CAS# delay (Trcd)'...to name but three.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


A couple more things I have been told...If there is an option to do so, disable "spred spectrum" in your bios, and definetly disable the "cool and quiet" feature if applicable.


*Spread Spectrum:*

There are different spread spectrum settings but the one 'CPU Spread Spectrum' is set to 'Center Spread'. There is an option to disable this.

*AMD K8 Cool 'n' Quiet Control:*

Currently set to 'Auto' - this _can_ be disabled

I'm going to wait for your reply to this post before I take my first baby steps...and anything else you think I should change / tweak in the light of blitz's post that followed yours. Many thanks - I really do appreciate you 'holding my hand'


----------



## kwint

Jeremey try these settings out and see if it boots to windows
cpu frequency: 230
CPU clock ratio: 10x
HT multiplier: 4x
Ram divider: 2/166

Disable: Spread Spectrum
Disable Cool n Quiet

Your bios should read 2300mhz and ram at ~392

Look a couple pages back for my long post explaining all the different frequencies and multipliers.

Its funny, but your rig and my rig are pretty similar.


----------



## JeremyWW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kwint* 
Jeremey try these settings out and see if it boots to windows
cpu frequency: 230
CPU clock ratio: 10x
HT multiplier: 4x
Ram divider: 2/166

Disable: Spread Spectrum
Disable Cool n Quiet

Your bios should read 2300mhz and ram at ~392

Look a couple pages back for my long post explaining all the different frequencies and multipliers.

Its funny, but your rig and my rig are pretty similar.

Thanks for your reply, but I feel that it's best for me to take advice from one person at a time. As I said in my post above, I am unable to disable Spread Spectrum. Cheers...

OK - sorry, correction! I _can_ disable something called 'CPU Spread Spectrum'! Maybe I should try what you're suggesting. Presumably I should run a stability test afterwards with Stress Prime?


----------



## kwint

I would check temps first. I use core temp because that can start up with windows. Honestly, I would read the guides. I learned a lot from them.


----------



## JeremyWW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kwint*


I would check temps first. I use core temp because that can start up with windows. Honestly, I would read the guides. I learned a lot from them.


Temps are fine with CoreTemp but stability.....Noooooo.....didn't like it one little bit....


----------



## Hueristic

Spent a little while on the dfi yesterday and got the htt to 400 without much difficulty.
Finicky boards though aye. auto settings don't work for sheet! And me being lazy is a bad combo!









Actually built 4 drawers in the last week. Got mirrored tile to finish the wall over my counter. will get pics when done.

Sorry bout the lack of activity but overwelmed with RL crapola.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Spent a little while on the dfi yesterday and got the htt to 400 without much difficulty.


400MHz


----------



## Blitz6804

I am curious: how is the bandwidth at DDR-200 with a 400 MHz HTT?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I am curious: how is the bandwidth at DDR-200 with a 400 MHz HTT?


divider was set 1/2. Haven't got to mem yet. just checking to see what the boards capable of.


----------



## Blitz6804

Care to run a memory bandwidth benchmark at that setting? *Chuckles.*


----------



## JeremyWW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


JeremyWW: As eternalenergy311 said, 2/1.66 means you are running your RAM on the DDR-333 divider. With an 11x multi and a 206 HTT, that works out to be DDR-324. (The explanation for which is not relevant.) To test the limits of your board, you will want to set the memory divider to 2/1 (DDR-200), reduce your K8 multiplier to 6x if possible, and slowly increase the HTT (or FSB) until you can no longer run Prime 95 (or Orthos, the link is in the first post) with stability. When you can no longer run it, write down the number and decrease your HyperTransport Link to 4x. Continue until unstable, record, and drop to 3x, et cetera. When you can no longer be stable no matter what your HyperTrasport Link is set to, we are 1/3 of the way to methodically determining your best system overclock. List all the numbers you have gathered here. (That is, list them like 5x = 220, 4x = 250, 3x = 320, et cetera.)


Not sure what my next move is. With your settings above (and Cool 'n' Quiet + Spread Spectrum disabled), i.e. I have memory divider @ 2/1 and K8 multiplier @ 6X

5X - Machine Unstable / Failed to boot @ CPU Frequency = 250
4X - I cannot make the machine unstable & Stress Prime continues to run. Although I have the CPU @ 300, the real frequency seems to have ceilinged @ 290 - it won't increase. Wasn't expecting that! See link


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Care to run a memory bandwidth benchmark at that setting? *Chuckles.*


Not worth it cpu was on 4x. I reset it all back and it's folding away.

Got a VA appoint in 1/2 hour. Have to get work done one the drawers when I get back but maybe I'll be up to screwing around with it tonight. I don't like the order the mem timings are in.:swearing: Also I'm using value ATM so that is a limiting factor. I'd rather not rip apart my main rig just yet.


----------



## Blitz6804

Okay JeremyWW, the next step would be to put the HTT back to 200 and the memory to DDR-400. Slowly increase the HTT up until unstable. Then decrease the memory to DDR-333 and continue. Right now, are are operating under the assumption your max HTT is 290 and your max Hypertransport is 1160.


----------



## JeremyWW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Okay JeremyWW, the next step would be to put the HTT back to 200 and the memory to DDR-400. Slowly increase the HTT up until unstable.

Unstable @ HTT240

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Then decrease the memory to DDR-333 and continue. Right now, are are operating under the assumption your max HTT is 290 and your max Hypertransport is 1160.

Unstable @ HTT280 (BSOD), so now running at 275

CPU-Z Validator

Thanks for all this, good to go through it like this (and I'm learning!







)


----------



## Blitz6804

And with DDR-200, with an 11x multi, how high can the HTT go? A 10x multi? A 9x multi?


----------



## JeremyWW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


And with DDR-200, with an 11x multi, how high can the HTT go? A 10x multi? A 9x multi?


OK, do I need to go further? - I hit instability as follows:

11X - 205
10X - 225
9X - 250
8X - 280
7X - 295 *(290 STABLE)*
6X @ 295 = BSOD

CPU-Z Validator


----------



## Blitz6804

No, you do not NEED to go further. However, that is for your CPU at 1.328 V, which is the stock for Gigabyte Skt939 boards. (My 939 board did it too.) The stock for the CPU is 1.350 V, so if you increase the CPU Voltage in your BIOS to 1.350 (set in the BIOS to 1.375 V or +25 mV) you should see yourself able to go faster than 2250 MHz. If you want, and temperatures permit*, feel free to provide up to 1.450 V in the BIOS. Some say you can do up to 1.500 V, but I prefer to keep below 1.450 V. More voltage (usually) suggests a higher speed limit, but not necessarily. Based on Gogar, your "ideal" clocks given a 1160 MHz maximum Hypertransport, a 290 MHz maximum HTT, a 230 MHz memory maximum, and a 2250 MHz maximum clock speed would be 10x225 DDR-400, which would yield DDR-450 with a 2250 MHz CPU. (I presume your BIOS does not have DDR-450 or DDR-366, it is not a DFI.) This sounds low to me, likely because your 4400+ is presently being undervolted.

*Your maximum under-load temperature is 71Âº C.

EDIT: I apologize, it is possible your temperture cap could be only 65Âº C. Do you happen to know your exact part number? This is the first line on your chip's heat spreader. Namely, is it an ADA4400 (110W / 65Âº C) or an ADV4400 (89W / 71Âº C).


----------



## JeremyWW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


No, you do not NEED to go further. However, that is for your CPU at 1.328 V, which is the stock for Gigabyte Skt939 boards. (My 939 board did it too.) The stock for the CPU is 1.350 V, so if you increase the CPU Voltage in your BIOS to 1.350 (set in the BIOS to 1.375 V or +25 mV) you should see yourself able to go faster than 2250 MHz. If you want, and temperatures permit*, feel free to provide up to 1.450 V in the BIOS. Some say you can do up to 1.500 V, but I prefer to keep below 1.450 V. More voltage (usually) suggests a higher speed limit, but not necessarily. Based on Gogar, your "ideal" clocks given a 1160 MHz maximum Hypertransport, a 290 MHz maximum HTT, a 230 MHz memory maximum, and a 2250 MHz maximum clock speed would be 10x225 DDR-400, which would yield DDR-450 with a 2250 MHz CPU. (I presume your BIOS does not have DDR-450 or DDR-366, it is not a DFI.) This sounds low to me, likely because your 4400+ is presently being undervolted.

*Your maximum under-load temperature is 71Âº C.

EDIT: I apologize, it is possible your temperture cap could be only 65Âº C. Do you happen to know your exact part number? This is the first line on your chip's heat spreader. Namely, is it an ADA4400 (110W / 65Âº C) or an ADV4400 (89W / 71Âº C).


How can I get the part number without cracking open the case, or do I need to do that? I took the testing slightly further in my edited post above - not that it changes anything....


----------



## Blitz6804

Without cracking the seal, you would not know. Just for now assume it is 65Âº C to be safe if you want. In any event, as I said, you can actually give it a little voltage as you are presently undervolting.


----------



## JeremyWW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Without cracking the seal, you would not know. Just for now assume it is 65Âº C to be safe if you want. In any event, as I said, you can actually give it a little voltage as you are presently undervolting.


I just tried at the settings you gave me above and it's unstable. Stress Prime fails. Have I done something wrong?

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=860968

Edit: I upped the voltage and it's stable See new link below. Shall I just try increasing the CPU FSB leaving the other settings as they are? By the way, I still have the HT Link at 4X - that's correct isn't it?

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=860968


----------



## Blitz6804

It is possible I misread your RAM speeds. Or, it is possible that the particular combination does not work. Just because each part can run at those speeds does not mean that they will all run that speed combined. I would do testing on higher CPU voltage (as prior) to see where that comes out.

EDIT: I would start at 11x205 again (where you were unstable with 1.328 V) and give a slight voltage bump. Then drop to 10x, then 9x, et cetera. Remember to watch that your load temperatures stay under 65Âº C.


----------



## JeremyWW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


It is possible I misread your RAM speeds. Or, it is possible that the particular combination does not work. Just because each part can run at those speeds does not mean that they will all run that speed combined. I would do testing on higher CPU voltage (as prior) to see where that comes out.

EDIT: I would start at 11x205 again (where you were unstable with 1.328 V) and give a slight voltage bump. Then drop to 10x, then 9x, et cetera. Remember to watch that your load temperatures stay under 65Âº C.


Instability Result with voltage @ 1.375

11X = 210
10X = 230
9X = 240
8X = 240
7X = 240
6X = 240

Just increased to voltage to 1.400 (in BIOS) and running @ 10X230 (STABLE). All this - above and current is with HT Link @ 4X and Memory Div @ 2/2.

Current: http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=861201


----------



## Blitz6804

For 9x-6x, you have to reduce your memory to 2/1.66 at least based on the data you gave us earlier.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JeremyWW*


Just increased to voltage to 1.400 (in BIOS) and running @ 10X230 (STABLE). All this - above and current is with HT Link @ 4X and Memory Div @ 2/2.

Current: http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=861201



Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


For 9x-6x, you have to reduce your memory to 2/1.66 at least based on the data you gave us earlier.


Blitz, is it necessary for JeremyWW to have his memory overclocked (30Mhz) during testing? This could be another factor holding him back. Just a thought....

Good luck


----------



## JeremyWW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, is it necessary for JeremyWW to have his memory overclocked (30Mhz) during testing? This could be another factor holding him back. Just a thought....

Good luck


OK, well, I'm confused. Let me know if there's something else I need to try and I'll look at it in the morning.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JeremyWW*


OK, well, I'm confused. Let me know if there's something else I need to try and I'll look at it in the morning.


JeremyWW, try a lower divider such as DDR-266. Basically you're just trying to find out what your processor and motherboard is capable of right now. It would be nice for now to take the memory out of the equation...should makes things a little easier to troubleshoot. The memory can be played with later on.

Let us know if that makes sense









Good luck


----------



## JeremyWW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


JeremyWW, try a lower divider such as DDR-266. Basically you're just trying to find out what your processor and motherboard is capable of right now. It would be nice for now to take the memory out of the equation...should makes things a little easier to troubleshoot. The memory can be played with later on.

Let us know if that makes sense









Good luck


So what ratio do I choose to achieve that? And what are the other settings that I should start with after all the tests I've done so far? I've lost the thread with this I'm afraid. I'm confused about the power to the CPU, I don't know my CPU temp limit, and I don't understand why I've been told to disable 'Spread Spectrum' and 'Cool n Quiet'. (Whatever they are!?) For the moment I'm resetting BIOS to the defaults and I'll try to get my head around this tomorrow although, even with all your willing help here, I am struggling to understand it!


----------



## Blitz6804

2/1.33


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JeremyWW*


So what ratio do I choose to achieve that? And what are the other settings that I should start with after all the tests I've done so far? I've lost the thread with this I'm afraid. I'm confused about the power to the CPU, I don't know my CPU temp limit, and I don't understand why I've been told to disable 'Spread Spectrum' and 'Cool n Quiet'. (Whatever they are!?) For the moment I'm resetting BIOS to the defaults and I'll try to get my head around this tomorrow although, even with all your willing help here, I am struggling to understand it!


JeremyWW, try a lower ratio and see where that takes you. The reason why we suggested that you disable "Spread Spectrum" and "Cool'n'Quiet" was because these two components (when Enabled) can prevent you from overclocking. Stability issues may occur with them _on_. I understand you're a bit a confused and that is normal. This hobby can sometimes be very tedious. This is definitely something you do not want to rush into.

Here is a guide that I highly suggest you read over. It covers overclocking a AM2 system but most of it is relative to Socket 939. Make sure to always keep your HT Link speed at stock (1000Mhz) or lower (this differs from AM2). Check it out when you have time: http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...ocket-am2.html. The guide will explain on how to find the limits of each component. It's imperative that you follow this procedure so that you become aware of your systems limitations (processor, motherboard and memory).

Don't be afraid to ask more questions









Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Cool 'n' Quiet needs to be turned off to adjust the CPU voltage and multiplier on some motherboards, my Gigabyte GA-K8NSC-939 was one of them. As Thlnk3r said, Spread Spectrum can sometimes cause issues when overclocking, for example, my DFI LP DK 790FX-M2RS will not pass 250 MHz HTT with it enabled. The feature is supposed to reduce the EMF coming off the computer, so unless you have a pacemaker or similar, you should not really need to worry about it.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Ok, thinker...I'm making a thread in the marketplace, no worries.

But guys, I just got my Opteron back. I've figured out its my motherboard that won't let me go any higher. Does anybody have a good 939 board that'll pass roughly 360MHz HTT....*stable*? My A8N32-SLI Deluxe is a GREAT board, but she just can't take this Opty any higher. And I KNOW my chip can go higher.....

338 x 9 = stable
339 x 8 = unstable

I know its the board at this point. So I need one that can go higher.....


----------



## Kryton

At least you got the chip itself back Pio and that's good news. I'm suprised the A8N32 won't let it go any higher since mine will but it's been awhile since I tried any OC'ing with it. Only recently I broke it out again to do some testing and to let it run a little but nothing crazy or anything of the like.

Tomorrow I do plan on seeing if I can get my X2 to clock a little higher since according to Ripping.org's database, it's the #4 X2 4200 Toledo in the world and I know I can get third place with it.

I'd also bet you're in there somewhere yourself - Why not check and see?









Here's the link to the site: http://www.ripping.org/database.php?act=records


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


At least you got the chip itself back Pio and that's good news. I'm suprised the A8N32 won't let it go any higher since mine will but it's been awhile since I tried any OC'ing with it. Only recently I broke it out again to do some testing and to let it run a little but nothing crazy or anything of the like.

Tomorrow I do plan on seeing if I can get my X2 to clock a little higher since according to Ripping.org's database, it's the #4 X2 4200 Toledo in the world and I know I can get third place with it.

I'd also bet you're in there somewhere yourself - Why not check and see?









Here's the link to the site: http://www.ripping.org/database.php?act=records


Well the board will go higher, but its for suicide runs only (see the link in my sig for 3.36GHz with my Opty). I want to attempt 3.1-3.2GHz+ stable with it. I'm at 3.04Ghz right now with only 1.41v, stable for 4 hours so far. I've got a LOT of voltage headroom left, and temps aren't an issue.

Like I said earlier:
338x9 = stable @ 1.41v
339x8 = unstable, no matter what voltage / RAM options

EDIT:
And I don't know if I'm on that site or not. I BELIEVE I'm on hwbot though, I want to say I was like #7 or 8 in the world with a 165 with my 3.36GHz run.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Well the board will go higher, but its for suicide runs only (see the link in my sig for 3.36GHz with my Opty). I want to attempt 3.1-3.2GHz+ stable with it. I'm at 3.04Ghz right now with only 1.41v, stable for 4 hours so far. I've got a LOT of voltage headroom left, and temps aren't an issue.

Like I said earlier:
338x9 = stable @ 1.41v
339x8 = unstable, no matter what voltage / RAM options

EDIT:
And I don't know if I'm on that site or not. I BELIEVE I'm on hwbot though, I want to say I was like #7 or 8 in the world with a 165 with my 3.36GHz run.


Yes, you are listed there with the 165 in about 8th or so as you said. That site gets most of their info from the bot and you'll see if you browse through a great many HWbot entries in it. I checked my stuff and have several in, including a WR with my 3000+ Albany Sempron 754 socket chip. I also made second or third with a couple of other chips too.


----------



## Blitz6804

Looks like he is #10. Shame Brian Mychajluk and Untouchable did not list what they are using. If not air, Pio is #1 air cooled.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Looks like he is #10. Shame Brian Mychajluk and Untouchable did not list what they are using. If not air, Pio is #1 air cooled.


Yeah, and my particular post on that site was pulled directly from CPUz's validation pages. That's the only thing I did with that run, was get a validation.


----------



## Kryton

Either way, it's a very good run and I'd have to give you the go-ahead on aircooling with that result.
Interesting stuff going on there - Really makes you wonder exactly where you stand in the world of OC'ing.


----------



## Blitz6804

Me? Somewhere near the bottom. I am far too conservative to get very far. I am more of the mindset that if I need more speed, I will buy a faster part. If I can overclock it, that is just gravy.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Either way, it's a very good run and I'd have to give you the go-ahead on aircooling with that result.
Interesting stuff going on there - Really makes you wonder exactly where you stand in the world of OC'ing.

I've ALWAYS ran air cooling, and I always will. So any and ALL results you see from me are on air. My rig is going in the garage, which has outside temps (gets down to about 10*F here at night)....so I have all the room in the world for temps







.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I've ALWAYS ran air cooling, and I always will. So any and ALL results you see from me are on air. My rig is going in the garage, which has outside temps (gets down to about 10*F here at night)....so I have all the room in the world for temps







.

That's how you do it and only recently have I stepped into the world of watercooling as you know. Everything before that was done on air so I know about that. I've yet to get a Socket A on H2O so anything there is on air alone.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
I'd also bet you're in there somewhere yourself - Why not check and see?









Here's the link to the site: http://www.ripping.org/database.php?act=records

Kryton, wow that 550BE OC on LN2 is nice. Is there is a place on that site that shows more details on the chip (ie. stepping)? I clicked on the WR for the 550BE (duck) and nothing else came up...hmmm


----------



## JeremyWW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
JeremyWW, try a lower ratio and see where that takes you. The reason why we suggested that you disable "Spread Spectrum" and "Cool'n'Quiet" was because these two components (when Enabled) can prevent you from overclocking. Stability issues may occur with them _on_. I understand you're a bit a confused and that is normal. This hobby can sometimes be very tedious. This is definitely something you do not want to rush into.

Here is a guide that I highly suggest you read over. It covers overclocking a AM2 system but most of it is relative to Socket 939. Make sure to always keep your HT Link speed at stock (1000Mhz) or lower (this differs from AM2). Check it out when you have time: http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...ocket-am2.html. The guide will explain on how to find the limits of each component. It's imperative that you follow this procedure so that you become aware of your systems limitations (processor, motherboard and memory).

Don't be afraid to ask more questions









Good luck

First of all, apologies to you and blitz for my mild, late night, over-tired, tantrum!

OK, I'm starting with (and please tell me if I haven't backtracked enough):

HT Link = 4X
Starting HTT = 205
Starting K8 Multiplier = 10X
Memory Divider = 2/1.33
Voltage (In BIOS) = 1.375

I'll post the results here, dropping the K8X as I go.

*Edit: Instability Results (I don't understand them - chronic instability):

11X = 205
10X = 230
9X ONWARDS @ 230 - STRESS TEST FAILS, AND / OR MACHINE WON'T BOOT / UNSTABLE / LOCKS UP*

Thanks guys









*Edit: I actually managed to find out my CPU OPN from AMD. I called them, gave them the serial number and they told me it's an ADA4400, so it has an upper temp limit of 65Â°*

*Another Edit: After some experimentation, the only stable combination I seem to be able to use and keep the temperature just below 65Â° over an extended (half an hour) stress test is:

HT Link: 4X
K8 Multiplier: 10X
HTT: 225
Memory Multiplier: 2/1.66
Voltage in BIOS: 1.400

CPU-Z Link: http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=862039

Do I need more / better cooling?*


----------



## Blitz6804

I would suggest better cooling if you can afford it. Right now, only 50 MHz on the core at the expense of 100 MHz on the Hypertransport and 25 MHz on the RAM, does not seem worth it to me. HOWEVER: you would have to test both this and stock to see which performs better in games. Not everything is simple numbers.


----------



## JeremyWW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I would suggest better cooling if you can afford it. Right now, only 50 MHz on the core at the expense of 100 MHz on the Hypertransport and 25 MHz on the RAM, does not seem worth it to me. HOWEVER: you would have to test both this and stock to see which performs better in games. Not everything is simple numbers.


I'm not really a gamer. I'm into mutli-media. So, yes, number crunching - media file (still and video) editing and conversion. That was the motivation for this. I'd come to the same conclusion - that it was hardly worth it with these results. (I'm now back running @ stock). That's disappointing, and I would invest in better cooling but only up to a point. I.E. (Says he naively...) Can I not just buy a bigger CPU fan? Case and PSU fans are pretty good as is...


----------



## Blitz6804

It is possible. Sometimes a fan upgrade (even on the stock cooler) can help, sometimes not. Some of the upgraded coolers can come pretty cheap. For example, I sometimes see Xigmatek coolers as cheap as $20.

I forgot you are in UK, that makes things a bit more expensive. I know Pez loves his Xigmatek HDT-S1283, the dark-plated version of which can be had for Â£31.99 after VAT.


----------



## JeremyWW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


It is possible. Sometimes a fan upgrade (even on the stock cooler) can help, sometimes not. Some of the upgraded coolers can come pretty cheap. For example, I sometimes see Xigmatek coolers as cheap as $20.

I forgot you are in UK, that makes things a bit more expensive. I know Pez loves his Xigmatek HDT-S1283, the dark-plated version of which can be had for Â£31.99 after VAT.


And that will fit my CPU / MOBO...? Do I need to check anything else? I can see that the reviews are good...


----------



## Blitz6804

Provided you do not have oversized RAM heat spreaders, it should fit fine. I know Pez also bought a bracket made by an OCN member to permit mounting the cooler so the pipes are perpendicular to the table instead of parallel, which removes this limitation. At 160mm, it should fit with your case (the Thermaltake Soprano has a width of 210mm) without much difficulty, as the motherboard on standoffs is certainly shorter than 50mm.

EDIT: Link to Pez's thread. I do not know if nafljhy only makes for AM2+ or for 939 as well. (The bracket Pez has does not appear to work for 939 since it has 4 mounting screws and not 2.)


----------



## JeremyWW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Provided you do not have oversized RAM heat spreaders, it should fit fine. I know Pez also bought a bracket made by an OCN member to permit mounting the cooler so the pipes are perpendicular to the table instead of parallel, which removes this limitation. At 160mm, it should fit with your case (the Thermaltake Soprano has a width of 210mm) without much difficulty, as the motherboard on standoffs is certainly shorter than 50mm.

EDIT: Link to Pez's thread. I do not know if nafljhy only makes for AM2+ or for 939 as well. (The bracket Pez has does not appear to work for 939 since it has 4 mounting screws and not 2.)


What sort of difference to average temperatures would you expect using this fan? (I have two stock 5" fans in the case already - one front, one back + a 5" on the PSU)


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Kryton, wow that 550BE OC on LN2 is nice. Is there is a place on that site that shows more details on the chip (ie. stepping)? I clicked on the WR for the 550BE (duck) and nothing else came up...hmmm


That's all it will show you since the site gets most of it's results from sites such as HWbot and it's hosted on a private server. 
If it's possible to get a particualr stepping from a CPU-Z entry, that might be the best possible way to see what it would be. That result may be listed at the bot and you could view the CPU-Z validation entry. Most likely though you'd get the stepping revision such as DR-B3 (From a Phenom Agena X4 that I have here) from the reading within the link.

Don't be suprised if myself or Pio didn't score too high on the list since we are talking about WR's here. Got lucky with the few chips I did well with and that's the story there.


----------



## Blitz6804

There is a difference between case cooling and CPU cooling JeremyWW. I for example have a 250mm, 90mm, and 2x 120mm fans on intake in my case, as well as 2x 120mm and a 75mm on exhaust. I would still expect to see higher temperatures with a stock cooler than my (arguably only slightly) better cooler. I would think at least a 120mm each for intake and exhaust like you have should be enough to feed the Xigmatek. Now, if you only had a single 80mm in the entire case, I would have suggested upgrading that first.


----------



## JeremyWW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


There is a difference between case cooling and CPU cooling JeremyWW. I for example have a 250mm, 90mm, and 2x 120mm fans on intake in my case, as well as 2x 120mm and a 75mm on exhaust. I would still expect to see higher temperatures with a stock cooler than my (arguably only slightly) better cooler. I would think at least a 120mm each for intake and exhaust like you have should be enough to feed the Xigmatek. Now, if you only had a single 80mm in the entire case, I would have suggested upgrading that first.


Thanks for that. Could you comment on my last set of disastrous (unstable) results @ 2/1.33? I can't quite understand what's holding me back here. Is it really just cooling? Or is the memory inadequate? I was actually beginning to think I had a 'real' hardware fault, particularly as Stress Prime tells me I have 'hardware failures' when the stress tests fail. Or is that me naively interpreting the messages...?


----------



## Blitz6804

I do not think I can comment on that. I do not think the problem is memory related; at 2/1.33, you are going to be sub-stock (DDR-400) on even multipliers until 301 MHz HTT and on odd multipliers until 312 MHz HTT. Ergo, I do not think the problem is RAM related. It is possible (even if I think improbable) that you need to increase the chipset voltage (sometimes erroneously called "Northbridge" in the BIOS) to increase stability. There could also be some RAM subtiming, not a timing proper, that is causing us problems. I do not suppose you have a digital camera and want to take pictures of all your BIOS settings do you?


----------



## JeremyWW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I do not think I can comment on that. I do not think the problem is memory related; at 2/1.33, you are going to be sub-stock (DDR-400) on even multipliers until 301 MHz HTT and on odd multipliers until 312 MHz HTT. Ergo, I do not think the problem is RAM related. It is possible (even if I think improbable) that you need to increase the chipset voltage (sometimes erroneously called "Northbridge" in the BIOS) to increase stability. There could also be some RAM subtiming, not a timing proper, that is causing us problems. I do not suppose you have a digital camera and want to take pictures of all your BIOS settings do you?


Sure - presumably it will be all the MIT settings...?


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah. Make sure you press Ctrl+F1 when you first get into the BIOS to be sure there are no ghosted settings.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Ok, thinker...I'm making a thread in the marketplace, no worries.

But guys, I just got my Opteron back. I've figured out its my motherboard that won't let me go any higher. Does anybody have a good 939 board that'll pass roughly 360MHz HTT....*stable*? My A8N32-SLI Deluxe is a GREAT board, but she just can't take this Opty any higher. And I KNOW my chip can go higher.....

338 x 9 = stable
339 x 8 = unstable

I know its the board at this point. So I need one that can go higher.....


One of my Ultra-D's hit 403 Mhz Orthos stable for several hours. It went all the way to 405 but my HyperX ram doesn't OC worth a damn, pretty much anything over 200MHz and it loses stability regardless of CPU or reference clock frequency. BTW, I did that with my 3500+ with a 5.5 multiplier, and 1:2 RAM divider. O and it has a lapped NB which lowers temps ~10C.


----------



## JeremyWW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Yeah. Make sure you press Ctrl+F1 when you first get into the BIOS to be sure there are no ghosted settings.

Here you go...let me know if you need more. Top & Bottom of MIT screen (with obvious overlap) I've set the 'CPU / DDR' & 'DDR Timing' options to Manual so you can see the choices...


----------



## Blitz6804

Change CPU Spread Spectrum from "Center Spread" to "Disabled." For Rubust Graphics Booster, you will want that "Disabled" as well if possible. Lastly, what are the options for Auto Detect PCI Clk?

EDIT: I looked up Auto Detect PCI Clk. It turns off busses not being used to reduce EMF, similar to how Spread Spectrum works. I do not think you will get a benefit adjusting it, but if you want, try disabling it it. What that will do is that all PCI/PCIe slots will receive power/data from the motherboard even if no cards are inserted. While enabled, it turns off slots that are not in use.


----------



## JeremyWW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Change CPU Spread Spectrum from "Center Spread" to "Disabled." For Rubust Graphics Booster, you will want that "Disabled" as well if possible. Lastly, what are the options for Auto Detect PCI Clk?

EDIT: I looked up Auto Detect PCI Clk. It turns off busses not being used to reduce EMF, similar to how Spread Spectrum works. I do not think you will get a benefit adjusting it, but if you want, try disabling it it. What that will do is that all PCI/PCIe slots will receive power/data from the motherboard even if no cards are inserted. While enabled, it turns off slots that are not in use.


Spread Spectrum I have disabled while testing. It's enabled here as I'm running on defaults atm. Robust Graphics cannot be disabled - the options are Auto, Fast & Turbo. PCI Clk can be disabled. I don't think we're looking at anything hopeful here are we?


----------



## Blitz6804

As near as I can tell, everything there seems normal. Maybe Thlnk3r sees something helpful since he's using the same board right now?


----------



## FnkDctr

JeremyWW,

Just overclock the ram and test its max speed.. you can get to 230fsb, so test the ram at 460mhz. I would also suggest testing its timings and seeing how tight they will go. You have them at 3-4-4-8, I'd try 4-4-4-8 when trying to overclock higher.

It sounds like your cpu may not like to be overclocked honestly, and the mobo doesn't like to either. Id suggest trying to increase the chipset core voltage, and loosen the ram timings a little.

Have you made sure your bios was up to date? And also you have the dual core optimizer installed? Since you're running a dual core, Bios updates were needed or helped a lot with the socket 939.

If all you can get is 50mhz cpu, just lower your multi and get the ram to 450mhz, tighten the timings to like 2.5-3-3-7 or better and that's that.. Atleast until you get better cooling and can push the voltage more and keep the temps lower.


----------



## thlnk3r

JeremyWW, can you tell us what model number is listed on your memory? It will either begin with a "D" or a "X". Let us know so that we can tell you what your memory is spec'ed to run at (timings/voltage).

Have you reviewed the guide that I linked you to yesterday? Perhaps I haven't been following the previous posts well enough but it sounds like to me you have not had a chance to find the limits of each component (memory, cpu, motherboard)? A few pages back you were able to achieve an HT Clock speed of 290Mhz. Did you test for stability at that speed?

Let us know

Good luck


----------



## JeremyWW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


JeremyWW, can you tell us what model number is listed on your memory? It will either begin with a "D" or a "X". Let us know so that we can tell you what your memory is spec'ed to run at (timings/voltage).

Have you reviewed the guide that I linked you to yesterday? Perhaps I haven't been following the previous posts well enough but it sounds like to me you have not had a chance to find the limits of each component (memory, cpu, motherboard)? A few pages back you were able to achieve an HT Clock speed of 290Mhz. Did you test for stability at that speed?

Let us know

Good luck










Without hauling out the mem strips this is as much info as I can glean. For some reason there is no maker / model info, but as you can see it is Supertalent memory.


















@290 I did test for stability, but I'm going to do it again now as it wasn't an exhaustive test. Watch this space...

*EDIT: Sigh... No, it's not stable. After 3 minutes 17 seconds, StressPrime failed. For what it's worth the BIOS settings are below. Cool n Quiet is disabled*


----------



## FnkDctr

your command rate should be 1t. 2t is only if you have 4 memory sticks.

I still wish I had your ram to overclock, id give you the max on your cpu, ram, and graphics card.

Also, if you're having this hard of a time overclocking with bios, I'd almost suggest software.. yes, i said it, software overclocking. Just to see what happens.


----------



## JeremyWW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FnkDctr*


your command rate should be 1t. 2t is only if you have 4 memory sticks.

I still wish I had your ram to overclock, id give you the max on your cpu, ram, and graphics card.

Also, if you're having this hard of a time overclocking with bios, I'd almost suggest software.. yes, i said it, software overclocking. Just to see what happens.


Problem is the Gigabyte software for this MOBO is rubbish. The board is not CIA enabled so I can't use the Gigabyte pre-sets in the software.

*Edit: I downloaded a later version of EasyTune which is a little better. See below, relevant screens - this is advanced mode so there's not a lot you can do. I did try just upping the FSB to 205 and ran a stress test - unstable (hardware failure in StressPrime)*


----------



## Blitz6804

FnkDctr: Actually, you should use 2T if you are experimenting for stability. 1T is a tighter timing and might cause instability on an otherwise-stable setting. I have also had some RAM DIMMs that do not like to run 1T past DDR-420, but ran 2T fine upwards of DDR-500. I would suggest leaving it at 2T for now, and experimenting with 1T at a later date.

JeremyWW: Be leery of using software to overclock. You are far more likely to corrupt the operating system with software than with BIOS overclocking.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JeremyWW* 
Without hauling out the mem strips this is as much info as I can glean.

JeremyWW, no worries. When you have a second open up the case and check the model number that is labeled on the memory.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JeremyWW* 
@290 I did test for stability, but I'm going to do it again now as it wasn't an exhaustive test. Watch this space...

*EDIT: Sigh... No, it's not stable. After 3 minutes 17 seconds, StressPrime failed. For what it's worth the BIOS settings are below. Cool n Quiet is disabled*

Change your HT Link multipler from 4x to 3x and re-run the test. At 290Mhz you had a HT Link speed of well over 1000Mhz. Try to keep your HT Link speed below 1000Mhz if not you may run into stability issues.

If you run into any problems with your OC then make sure to post up the cpu and memory tab from CPU-Z. That information is always helpful.

Let us know

Good luck


----------



## JeremyWW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


JeremyWW: Be leery of using software to overclock. You are far more likely to corrupt the operating system with software than with BIOS overclocking.


I've uninstalled it anyway...


----------



## JeremyWW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


JeremyWW, no worries. When you have a second open up the case and check the model number that is labeled on the memory.

Change your HT Link multipler from 4x to 3x and re-run the test. At 290Mhz you had a HT Link speed of well over 1000Mhz. Try to keep your HT Link speed below 1000Mhz if not you may run into stability issues.

If you run into any problems with your OC then make sure to post up the cpu and memory tab from CPU-Z. That information is always helpful.

Let us know

Good luck










I'll give it a go later...thanks for sticking with me on this


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 

Change your HT Link multipler from 4x to 3x and re-run the test. At 290Mhz you had a HT Link speed of well over 1000Mhz. Try to keep your HT Link speed below 1000Mhz if not you may run into stability issues.

That's the first thing I noticed. He was running @ 1160. WAY too high, that'll make an OC unstable very quickly.

Sorry I haven't been keeping up with what Jeremy has been trying to do. What's his issue?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Sorry I haven't been keeping up with what Jeremy has been trying to do. What's his issue?

BlackOmega, at the moment I believe we're just trying to help him get his overclock situated (finding the limits ect). Hopefully he has time to re-test 290Mhz with a lower HT Link speed


----------



## JeremyWW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, at the moment I believe we're just trying to help him get his overclock situated (finding the limits ect). Hopefully he has time to re-test 290Mhz with a lower HT Link speed










Stable:

HT Link: 3X
FSB: 290
K8 Multiplier: 7X
CPU / DDR: 2/1
Voltage (in BIOS): 1.375
Cool n Quiet: Disabled
Spread Spectrum: Disabled


----------



## Blitz6804

This is not an issue now, but remember to manually set your RAM timings to 3-3-3-8-2T-11-15. (That is in the form CL-tRDC-tRP-tRAS-CR-tRC-tRFC.)


----------



## JeremyWW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JeremyWW*


Stable:

HT Link: 3X
FSB: 290
K8 Multiplier: 7X
CPU / DDR: 2/1
Voltage (in BIOS): 1.375
Cool n Quiet: Disabled
Spread Spectrum: Disabled



































Not so stable it seems. Although the tests seem to run as above, when I turned my machine on after being off for 3/4 hours, it failed to boot. Had to get into BIOS, reset the defaults, and reboot.


----------



## ny_driver

Right now my settings are FSB 250 x 11 = 2750mHz. I underclocked my RAM DDR400 to 333 or 166 if you prefer that. I set the memory divider to 4 so as not to exceed the FSB rating of 1000 mHz. My RAM timings are 3-3-3-8. In my bios I have options to adjust everything except CPU multi because it's locked. I could take some pictures of the bios screens if it's really necessary.

Basically I just want to OC the CPU a little more. It seems to me that I'll need to knock the divider down another notch to 3, but I'm wondering if I might need to set the RAM to 133 also. I'd like to know how far my RAM will go. I'm here if you have any more questions. Thanks for the help!

EDIT: my cpu core voltage is at 1.48, do you think I may need to go higher in order to get higher OC? I think it wouldn't boot when I tried FSB of 260.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Right now my settings are FSB 250 x 11 = 2750mHz. I underclocked my RAM DDR400 to 333 or 166 if you prefer that. I set the memory divider to 4 so as not to exceed the FSB rating of 1000 mHz. My RAM timings are 3-3-3-8. In my bios I have options to adjust everything except CPU multi because it's locked. I could take some pictures of the bios screens if it's really necessary.

Basically I just want to OC the CPU a little more. It seems to me that I'll need to knock the divider down another notch to 3, but I'm wondering if I might need to set the RAM to 133 also. I'd like to know how far my RAM will go. I'm here if you have any more questions. Thanks for the help!

EDIT: my cpu core voltage is at 1.48, do you think I may need to go higher in order to get higher OC? I think it wouldn't boot when I tried FSB of 260.


 Typically to get a higher OC you need more volts, but that is not always the case.

And that is pretty odd that your CPU multiplier is locked. Have you tried using the "+" & "-" keys on the numpad? My MSI adjusts things that look "locked" in the BIOS, they're really not and even if you hit enter or whatever else it wont adjust the feature except with the + and - keys.

As for RAM overclocking, it's going to be difficult to know the true stability of it without being able to adjust the CPU multi. (sometimes it's called K8 mult.) have you checked on the MOBO manufacturers site for a BIOS update that might unlock the CPU multi?


----------



## Blitz6804

It IS a Via chipset, they are not the best-known overclockers. If I remember right, the Asus A8V I had briefly could not adjust the "K8 HammerFID" either.


----------



## ny_driver

http://www.legitreviews.com/article/116/8/

this article says the mobo OC's well, but from what I've read my CPU is locked and there's nothing you can do about it.

EDIT/UPDATE: I upped the CPU core voltage to 1.525 and the FSB to 260 and I'm here to tell you about it. Haven't done any type of testing yet. Core is at 25c


----------



## Blitz6804

Multipliers are traditionally upwardly locked, but downwardly unlocked. That is, your 3700+ can run at 9x or 10x, but not at 12x.


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JeremyWW* 
*K8 CPU Clock Ratio:*

Switching to Manual gives a range from 'Auto' through 'x5, x5.5, x6...to x11'

*DDR Clock / Timing Mode:*

Yes, 2/1.66 is an option. I also get a separate setting 'DDR Timing' lighting up having switched DDR Clock / Timing Mode to Manual. It, in turn, lights up a whole list of options such as 'CAS# latency (Tcl)', 'Min RAS# active time (Tras)', 'RAS# to CAS# delay (Trcd)'...to name but three.

*Spread Spectrum:*

There are different spread spectrum settings but the one 'CPU Spread Spectrum' is set to 'Center Spread'. There is an option to disable this.

*AMD K8 Cool 'n' Quiet Control:*

Currently set to 'Auto' - this _can_ be disabled

I'm going to wait for your reply to this post before I take my first baby steps...and anything else you think I should change / tweak in the light of blitz's post that followed yours. Many thanks - I really do appreciate you 'holding my hand'









Sorry for the late reply, had to do some traveling. As usual, it looks like your in the good hands of our fellow members here, or at least I have seen more than a few posts. Good luck


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Multipliers are traditionally upwardly locked, but downwardly unlocked. That is, your 3700+ can run at 9x or 10x, but not at 12x.


I haven't found any BIOS updates that mention anything about unlocking the multiplier when locked. I think it's built locked.


----------



## Blitz6804

Like I said though, the chip is not locked, but the motherboard probably is.


----------



## ny_driver

really....that's whacked because everything else is adjustable.


----------



## Blitz6804

The Pictured "Multiplier Factor" cannot be adjusted?


----------



## ny_driver

I see what you mean, but isn't it possible that the chip itself is locked. I've looked at several reviews of people OCing the 3700+ and always with a multiplier of 11.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I see what you mean, but isn't it possible that the chip itself is locked. I've looked at several reviews of people OCing the 3700+ and always with a multiplier of 11.


this prolly for the mem divider purposes


----------



## Blitz6804

As a former owner of a 3700+ San Diego ny_driver, I can tell you that is not the case. As N2Gaming said, many review sites leave it at its highest multiplier, whereas you may sometimes get a better SYSTEM overclock with a lower divider.


----------



## kwint

Running at 2.4ghz now, and I have new faith in my cpu. Sitting at around 35 idle on stock cooling with crappy thermal paste.

220x11
4x HT
166 divider


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JeremyWW* 
Not so stable it seems. Although the tests seem to run as above, when I turned my machine on after being off for 3/4 hours, it failed to boot. Had to get into BIOS, reset the defaults, and reboot.

JeremyWW, we share the same motherboard and I found out this occurs almost every time I perform a cold reboot. It's hard to tell though because sometimes it is due to stability issues. Go back to 290Mhz and re-run Prime95. Run it for about 8 hours. After it's complete go ahead and restart your machine. See if locks up at POST. If it does then let the board restart itself. Let it do this a few times. It may eventually boot properly. I'm not sure if it's the board or the bios. I didn't notice this problem until I started raising the HT Clock speed. By the way good job on hitting 290Mhz. For some reason I couldn't get anything above 280Mhz stable on mine. Good job










Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Like I said though, the chip is not locked, but the motherboard probably is.

Blitzy, isn't it usually the other way around? I thought these processors (unlike the Black Edition or FX series) had locked multi's?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kwint* 
Running at 2.4ghz now, and I have new faith in my cpu. Sitting at around 35 idle on stock cooling with crappy thermal paste.

220x11
4x HT
166 divider

Kwint, 35C is not too shabby for a dual-core sitting at idle. What are your load temps? Keep up the great work!

Good luck guys


----------



## Blitz6804

I was referring to downwardly unlocked multipliers. If you get an OEM motherboard, it is likely unable to change the multiplier. Change the chip to another board, and it works just fine.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

A note about non FX-series or Black Edition CPUs and their CPU multipliers: They are UPWARDLY locked, which means they have a fixed maximum value that is a factor combined with the reference clock speed of 200MHz which will result in that CPU's stock speed. (For example, for an Athlon64 3700+ single-core, the CPU multiplier's stock value -- and therefore, its maximum value -- is 11; 11 x 200MHz = 2200MHz/2.20GHz, which is the CPU's stock speed.) These chips' CPU multipliers can be adjusted DOWNWARDS, however.


----------



## kwint

Quote:

Kwint, 35C is not too shabby for a dual-core sitting at idle. What are your load temps? Keep up the great work!

Good luck guys
Load doesn't go past 50, and equalizes at 45-48


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kwint*


Load doesn't go past 50, and equalizes at 45-48


Kwint, sounds about right for these dual-cores. Great job!


----------



## Kryton

Going good indeed Kwint!

Guys, I'm about to leave on a cruise and won't be in for a week or so. If for some reason I wind up stranded on an island, I'll just do as the professor did on Gilligan's Island and OC some coconuts or something.









I'll raise a glass and think "What else can I do to drive Pio crazy - Oh well" and toast you guys. On a sidenote, I delidded my 165 to finally get temps under control and it worked BUT having some severe issues with the chip not wanting to act right.
Had a 20c+ difference in core temps (45c vs 19c) but after popping the top, those evened out to about the same. Now it doesn't want to bench at all, throwing errors all over the place as if my RAM is toast or something. Tried several different sticks/sets but all acted the same way and now it won't clock beyond 3000MHz at all without crashing. Doesn't help either I found a small leak starting with the WC system and need to fix that before continuing here. Could try it in the A8N32 later to see if it's a possible board problem and will have to set the lid back on or set the board up for a naked chip to test it that way.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Going good indeed Kwint!

Guys, I'm about to leave on a cruise and won't be in for a week or so. If for some reason I wind up stranded on an island, I'll just do as the professor did on Gilligan's Island and OC some coconuts or something.









I'll raise a glass and think "What else can I do to drive Pio crazy - Oh well" and toast you guys. On a sidenote, I delidded my 165 to finally get temps under control and it worked BUT having some severe issues with the chip not wanting to act right.
Had a 20c+ difference in core temps (45c vs 19c) but after popping the top, those evened out to about the same. Now it doesn't want to bench at all, throwing errors all over the place as if my RAM is toast or something. Tried several different sticks/sets but all acted the same way and now it won't clock beyond 3000MHz at all without crashing. Doesn't help either I found a small leak starting with the WC system and need to fix that before continuing here. Could try it in the A8N32 later to see if it's a possible board problem and will have to set the lid back on or set the board up for a naked chip to test it that way.

Oh...to drive ME crazy?







. You just wait till I get my hands on a board that can pass 336Mhz stable. And my temp sensors are acting funny too now (about 25*C delta with serious voltage). I'm just gonna deal with it though.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Oh...to drive ME crazy?







. You just wait till I get my hands on a board that can pass 336Mhz stable. And my temp sensors are acting funny too now (about 25*C delta with serious voltage). I'm just gonna deal with it though.


Gotta keep you motivated somehow Pio.
Would be sad to outclock you with a coconut and bamboo.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Gotta keep you motivated somehow Pio.
Would be sad to outclock you with a coconut and bamboo.

















Oh thems are fightin wordz!

I think this calls for a new winter OC contest guys! Joe, thinker, blitz? What do you guys say?


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Oh thems are fightin wordz!

I think this calls for a new winter OC contest guys! Joe, thinker, blitz? What do you guys say?


Seriously, that's not a bad idea Pio.








It would give us something to do with our systems while the weather is cool enough for it.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Seriously, that's not a bad idea Pio.








It would give us something to do with our systems while the weather is cool enough for it.


Yeah but I still need a different board first though, lol. I will NOT pass 3.36GHz with the board I've got right now. I can promise that. I can't pass 3.02GHz stable...no matter what voltage I set ANYTHING to, or RAM, or HT Link settings. Its definitely the board.....1.36v for 3.02GHz? Yeah, my chip's got more in her....


----------



## Kryton

3.36 isn't anything to sneeze at either. You also don't need so much MHz to do well as I've been able to do with some benchmarks. Speaking of which, what benchies would you like to see used if we do hold a competition?

I can say though unless my 165 is really OK, it won't be used the way it's acting right now.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


3.36 isn't anything to sneeze at either. You also don't need so much MHz to do well as I've been able to do with some benchmarks. Speaking of which, what benchies would you like to see used if we do hold a competition?


I honestly don't know. I don't really do much benching anymore since I've realized that most of them are biased one way or the other. Take 3DMark06 for example. A quad with a much lesser card than I have would blow away my score. But I'd game better.....

Or superpi, Intel will score better, just because...

Hence why I gave up benching. But if its something that would be done in said contest, then I'm all for it too. We could also just go with whoever gets the highest CPUz validation. Maybe if there's a tie, whoever has the best RAM settings at said validation. Or maybe highest stable? Or we could do some sort of benching too...doesn't matter to me.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Had a 20c+ difference in core temps (45c vs 19c) but after popping the top, those evened out to about the same. Now it doesn't want to bench at all, throwing errors all over the place as if my RAM is toast or something.


Kryton, really dumb question but I'm have you already reviewed the the processor to make sure nothing was damaged around the _die_? Perhaps during the delidding process something was damaged to where it's very difficult to notice?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


We could also just go with whoever gets the highest CPUz validation. Maybe if there's a tie, whoever has the best RAM settings at said validation. Or maybe highest stable? Or we could do some sort of benching too...doesn't matter to me.


Pioneerisloud, I like this idea. The Winner receives bragging rights for the rest of the year









Good luck


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Kryton, really dumb question but I'm have you already reviewed the the processor to make sure nothing was damaged around the _die_? Perhaps during the delidding process something was damaged to where it's very difficult to notice?

Pioneerisloud, I like this idea. The Winner receives bragging rights for the rest of the year









Good luck


Or how about we just say I win, and I get bragging rights







. I like that idea, since I know my chip will beat Kryton's chip any day with the right board.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Or how about we just say I win, and I get bragging rights







. I like that idea, since I know my chip will beat Kryton's chip any day with the right board.


Pio, I have some spare S939 stuff that I would love to beat the crap out of (ie. high voltage







)...so I'm all game for another contest!


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Kryton, really dumb question but I'm have you already reviewed the the processor to make sure nothing was damaged around the _die_? Perhaps during the delidding process something was damaged to where it's very difficult to notice?


That is what happened to mine... get a magnifying glass if necessary and check all the legs of the packs around the die. If you're lucky, you only nicked a leg, which as Poser has shown, can be repaired with a little solder. (If you cut the corner off a pack entirely, like I did, you are going to have a harder fix if it is reparable at all.)


----------



## N2Gaming

Have fun on the Cruise Kryton. I may try to get into this comp this year on the Expert that limps along w/out sound.









Has any one played Prey.







I'm thinking of getting it for that price.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey guys I'm just about to click the purchase button and was wondering what you all think of these games and if any of them are not worth the money.


----------



## godofdeath

hey everyone
im running a 
athlon64 x2 4400
and would like to oc it to around 2.4-2.5
and im running asus a8n-sli premium

i read the guide but i just got more confused from that, anyone got advice or guidance?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Hey guys I'm just about to click the purchase button and was wondering what you all think of these games and if any of them are not worth the money.









*S.T.A.L.K.E.R. Clear Sky* is beyond fun. One of the better modern FPS's.

*Prince Of Persia* is a favorite, I'm not sure how the PC handles, but the game play is solid, and if you have a 360 Wired (or wireless with adapter) controller, you should be solid as well. It's a great game, a bit old, but I can't speak more highly of it for the adventure and fun it offers.

*PREY* While this was a decent game at the time, it wasn't as good as it was made out to be. I none the less, had alot of fun playing it, and at that price, I'd pick it up on steam or anywhere else for that matter. I payed $50 at launch for it (because no-one was reviewing it that was worth a hoot) and ended up being slightly disappointed. IMO, it's a solid $20 game, you couldn't go wrong with it at that price.

As for the rest, no idea. But hope this helps man.


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks Tator


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thanks Tator










No problem man.

Love the Avatar by the way.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


That is what happened to mine... get a magnifying glass if necessary and check all the legs of the packs around the die. If you're lucky, you only nicked a leg, which as Poser has shown, can be repaired with a little solder. (If you cut the corner off a pack entirely, like I did, you are going to have a harder fix if it is reparable at all.)


After I get back, I'll check that but do believe that could be the case. I did note one of the chips got a bit of drag from the blade and perhaps a pencil or some very fine soldering can save it. Although this happened to other chips I've done before, this is the first to act up BUT it was acting kinda crazy before I did it with the temp problem I described, hence the delidding.

Pio, if you have an X2, be happy to take you on there - Or with the 175, 180, 4000+, ......









You are right about benchies being biased in some way or another. One I can already suggest is this one and you can get it here:
http://nuc-rus.narod.ru/eng.htm

It seems to be a fairly consistent bench to use and we had lots of fun along the way with it at the home site. Note it's a .rar file but any good unzipping program should handle it.
Blitz, I'm hoping it will be a good cruise and of course I'll have to take a few pics.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


hey everyone
im running a 
athlon64 x2 4400
and would like to oc it to around 2.4-2.5
and im running asus a8n-sli premium

i read the guide but i just got more confused from that, anyone got advice or guidance?


Godofdeath, welcome to Overclock.net









I apologize for the late response. Which guide did you read? Perhaps if you have some questions about some key points maybe we can elaborate on them for you?

The basic thing to start with is by increasing the HT Clock speed (reference clock speed). The stock speed is 200Mhz. By increasing this you will also increase the cpu frequency (this is assuming you left the cpu multiplier at stock). Here is a basic basic basic guide on starting with S754/S939 overclocking. Perhaps this may be more helpful: http://tech.icrontic.com/articles/ov...54939_platform.

Hopefully a few others may have some suggestions/tips for you soon.

Let us know if you have more questions

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Have fun on the Cruise Kryton. I may try to get into this comp this year on the Expert that limps along w/out sound.









Has any one played Prey.







I'm thinking of getting it for that price.



For that price it's a steal. No real multiplayer to speak of even though it does have it. 
The single player is pretty cool, good story. It's definitely worth the play through. you won't be disappointed for $4.

I might be down for some winter OC fun. Although I think that chips should be classified depending on type. Like toledo's vs toledo's. Manchesters vs. manchesters, and so on. Because there is no way in hell my Mnachester is going to come anywhere close to their opty's.


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


For that price it's a steal. No real multiplayer to speak of even though it does have it. 
The single player is pretty cool, good story. It's definitely worth the play through. you won't be disappointed for $4.

I might be down for some winter OC fun. Although I think that chips should be classified depending on type. Like toledo's vs toledo's. Manchesters vs. manchesters, and so on. Because there is no way in hell my Mnachester is going to come anywhere close to their opty's.


So is this an invite only competition? Sounds like just the motivation I need to spend some money on some out dated hardware


----------



## JeremyWW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


JeremyWW, we share the same motherboard and I found out this occurs almost every time I perform a cold reboot. It's hard to tell though because sometimes it is due to stability issues. Go back to 290Mhz and re-run Prime95. Run it for about 8 hours. After it's complete go ahead and restart your machine. See if locks up at POST. If it does then let the board restart itself. Let it do this a few times. It may eventually boot properly. I'm not sure if it's the board or the bios. I didn't notice this problem until I started raising the HT Clock speed. By the way good job on hitting 290Mhz. For some reason I couldn't get anything above 280Mhz stable on mine. Good job










Can I (probably naively) ask what the point is though? With the multipliers all pushed down to achieve stability the core speed in CPU-Z is running at 2036 MHz. What / where am I gaining - performance wise?

Thanks,


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


For that price it's a steal. No real multiplayer to speak of even though it does have it. 
The single player is pretty cool, good story. It's definitely worth the play through. you won't be disappointed for $4.


Thanks Omega. I actually got 5 more games from them this time around.


----------



## Blitz6804

You need to let us know if they are a legit company when you get the box... for those prices, I wonder.

I have Painkiller (complete game, just like you, on sale at Amazon for like $6) and it plays very well in terms of smoothness. However, I have not gotten far into the game at all, and what I did get into it I lost when I reformatted. (Forgot to back up.) You might encourage me to get it reinstalled as soon as I have free time again.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JeremyWW* 
Can I (probably naively) ask what the point is though? With the multipliers all pushed down to achieve stability the core speed in CPU-Z is running at 2036 MHz. What / where am I gaining - performance wise?

Thanks,

JeremyWW, you said in your post here that the above test was not stable because you were not able to "restart" properly. I then replied here mentioning that it may not be your HT Clock speed that is unstable but in fact just a common issue that we share with the board not restarting properly. I wanted you to re-run the Prime95 test to verify stability first. If it passes then I'm thinking your 290Mhz HT Clock is not to blame. You can also lower it to 270 - 280Mhz and see if that helps with the restarts. I noticed any time I overclocked the HT Clock speed my machine would not restart properly at POST. As soon as it hits the drive list it just reboots









If I'm completely misunderstanding you then please by all means disregard my post.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


You need to let us know if they are a legit company when you get the box... for those prices, I wonder.

I have Painkiller (complete game, just like you, on sale at Amazon for like $6) and it plays very well in terms of smoothness. However, I have not gotten far into the game at all, and what I did get into it I lost when I reformatted. (Forgot to back up.) You might encourage me to get it reinstalled as soon as I have free time again.


GoGamer is legit. I have purchased several games from them in the past Frontlines Fuel of War, CS, CSS, The Orange Box, UT3, Soldier of Fortune Payback, Stalker shadow of chernobyl, Fear first encounter assault recon & Fear Perseus Mandate Expansion pack. All of which were sealed BNIB Retail copies.









Edit: I should have Win7 in the mail today if all went well w/the shipping. Maybe you can help me out w/navigating Win7.


----------



## BlackOmega

Wow that is a smokin deal. I'm going to have check gogamer out. Steam seems to charge more for less, as it is just a download. I tend to prefer to have the CD/DVD even though it's more of a pain in the butt when switching games and creates clutter.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


...I should have Win7 in the mail today if all went well w/the shipping. Maybe you can help me out w/navigating Win7.


Well there's my que to sign off for a few days.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Wow that is a smokin deal. I'm going to have check gogamer out. Steam seems to charge more for less, as it is just a download. I tend to prefer to have the CD/DVD even though it's more of a pain in the butt when switching games and creates clutter.


Yeah sometimes you have to catch gogamer when they are having a 48 hour sale like this time around when I got prey, Stalker & Prince of Persia for real cheap. I got the bowling game for me and my GF to play so she don't feel left out when I want to play games on My TV.







This bowling game is suppose to be able to play multiplayer online.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Well there's my que to sign off for a few days.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Godofdeath, welcome to Overclock.net









I apologize for the late response. Which guide did you read? Perhaps if you have some questions about some key points maybe we can elaborate on them for you?

The basic thing to start with is by increasing the HT Clock speed (reference clock speed). The stock speed is 200Mhz. By increasing this you will also increase the cpu frequency (this is assuming you left the cpu multiplier at stock). Here is a basic basic basic guide on starting with S754/S939 overclocking. Perhaps this may be more helpful: http://tech.icrontic.com/articles/ov...54939_platform.

Hopefully a few others may have some suggestions/tips for you soon.

Let us know if you have more questions

Good luck

Ok went into the bios a bit
Saw that the mutiplier and frequency thing under the Jumper part.
I went through the multiplier and the highest is at 11 and is default I think.
So I would have to increase frequency.

Now do I have to change the voltage also, I see it on AUTO right now.

Also after reading that article, what's the HTT bus? And do I have to do the overclocking memory also?

If anything my memory numbers is for the 512mb 2.5-3-3-8 and for the 1gb 3-3-3-8

Thanks


----------



## Blitz6804

Since your memory mismatch, you need to run for the weakest link. That is, manually set tCL-tRCD-tRP-tRAS to 3-3-3-8. HTT bus is often called "FSB" or "system clock." When you change that number, you are overclocking the CPU, the memory, and possibly others.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


Ok went into the bios a bit
Saw that the mutiplier and frequency thing under the Jumper part. 
I went through the multiplier and the highest is at 11 and is default I think.
So I would have to increase frequency.

Now do I have to change the voltage also, I see it on AUTO right now.

Also after reading that article, what's the HTT bus? And do I have to do the overclocking memory also?

If anything my memory numbers is for the 512mb 2.5-3-3-8 and for the 1gb 3-3-3-8


Godofdeath, if you can I'd recommend taking the cpu voltage off of AUTO and manually inputting it. The default voltage rating for your processor is 1.3 - 1.35 volts.

Some refer to the "HTT bus" as the reference clock speed. I like to refer to it as the "HT Clock speed".

You can overclock your memory but I always advise doing it later on seeming the processor speed is somewhat more important. During this time you can lower the memory divider so that the memory frequency doesn't cause any issues with your cpu overclock.

One thing you may want to avoid is overclocking with different sticks of memory. You may run into conflicts with the different timings and voltages. It's a good idea if you can overclock with a matching set of memory.

Hope that helps


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


Ok went into the bios a bit
Saw that the mutiplier and frequency thing under the Jumper part. 
I went through the multiplier and the highest is at 11 and is default I think.
So I would have to increase frequency.

Now do I have to change the voltage also, I see it on AUTO right now.

Also after reading that article, what's the HTT bus? And do I have to do the overclocking memory also?

If anything my memory numbers is for the 512mb 2.5-3-3-8 and for the 1gb 3-3-3-8

Thanks


godofdeath,

A few answers and a few suggestions. The HTT is the same as FSB, not to be confused with HT multiplier. As for increasing votage, as you increse your htt you may have to increase voltage for stability, although you may be able to pull off your desired clock of 2.4-2.5 without much voltage increase. I personally would be a little concerned running unmatched memory. I would try those timings at 3-3-3-8, even though the 512 sticks can handle tighter timings. As for memory overclocking, as you increse your htt the memory will become overclocked at whatever ratio it is set at. Once you max out the overclocking ability of the memory, you will likely have to decrease that ratio to reduce the speed of your memory. This process varies per motherboard. I often hear alot of members say" worry about the memory last" . I agree with this theory as well. Basically once your able to get your clock speed where you want it, then go back and tweak your memory settings. Hope some of this helps. I am sure others will chime in shortly..


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Godofdeath, if you can I'd recommend taking the cpu voltage off of AUTO and manually inputting it. The default voltage rating for your processor is 1.3 - 1.35 volts.

Some refer to the "HTT bus" as the reference clock speed. I like to refer to it as the "HT Clock speed".

You can overclock your memory but I always advise doing it later on seeming the processor speed is somewhat more important. During this time you can lower the memory divider so that the memory frequency doesn't cause any issues with your cpu overclock.

One thing you may want to avoid is overclocking with different sticks of memory. You may run into conflicts with the different timings and voltages. It's a good idea if you can overclock with a matching set of memory.

Hope that helps










well see i was right, think beat me to it


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


well see i was right, think beat me to it










It's nice to see we are all on the same page here









Good post above!


----------



## Blitz6804

Not to spam up the joint, but Thlnk3r is about to have Fibonacci posts. (11235.)


----------



## BlackOmega

ARG!!!!!!!

I'm not sure what happened but I think my opty 180 _might_ be dead. I got back from school went upstairs to write a response paper (which I still need to do) and noticed my folding rig, wasn't folding. It wasn't even on for that matter.
So I press the button fans come on, HDD activity light is on, but no ones home. It wouldn't even POST.








So I check the diag LED's and all 4 are on, IIRC, that means CPU. Well I just happen to have my 3800x2 sitting on my desk and swapped out the CPUs'. Lo and behold turns right on, POSTs, boots up no issues.








What do you guys think?

I'm planning on testing it on another board. Hopefully, it will power up.


----------



## mattliston

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


ARG!!!!!!!

I'm not sure what happened but I think my opty 180 _might_ be dead. I got back from school went upstairs to write a response paper (which I still need to do) and noticed my folding rig, wasn't folding. It wasn't even on for that matter. 
So I press the button fans come on, HDD activity light is on, but no ones home. It wouldn't even POST.








So I check the diag LED's and all 4 are on, IIRC, that means CPU. Well I just happen to have my 3800x2 sitting on my desk and swapped out the CPUs'. Lo and behold turns right on, POSTs, boots up no issues.








What do you guys think?

I'm planning on testing it on another board. Hopefully, it will power up.


chip creep?

I had my 3200+ pull right out of the socket with the heatsink when I was doing my "extreme" cleaning, aka, pulling everything out and apart and cleaning every nook and cranny. strangest thing was, after pulling the heatsink off adn realizing the cpu was stuck too it, it somehow magically came off without any effort. oh well, solved my random freezing/crashes

this is from a cpu being in the socket for 7+ months without removal


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mattliston*


chip creep?

I had my 3200+ pull right out of the socket with the heatsink when I was doing my "extreme" cleaning, aka, pulling everything out and apart and cleaning every nook and cranny. strangest thing was, after pulling the heatsink off adn realizing the cpu was stuck too it, it somehow magically came off without any effort. oh well, solved my random freezing/crashes

this is from a cpu being in the socket for 7+ months without removal


 Quite honestly, I don't see how anything like that would've happened to it. It was running at stock, 0 load, and even undervolted @ 1.31v.

I'll just have to do some testing with it. It's been a great chip, has never seen over 65C at the cores (I bought it new), and will run @ 2900 MHz at stock voltage. I hope it's not dead, the things worth as much as a 965!!.

And FWIW, I just cleaned out my case and put that CPU in not more than a few weeks ago.

And a side note for you, be sure to twist the heatsink before you pull on it. Usually this will break the TIM connection between the 2.


----------



## N2Gaming

That sux Omega. I hope all is well w/your opty 180


----------



## godofdeath

ugh i'll try and figure this out once i get break from school.
I'll try and get some ram too that matches from some people that might have it


----------



## mattliston

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Quite honestly, I don't see how anything like that would've happened to it. It was running at stock, 0 load, and even undervolted @ 1.31v.

I'll just have to do some testing with it. It's been a great chip, has never seen over 65C at the cores (I bought it new), and will run @ 2900 MHz at stock voltage. I hope it's not dead, the things worth as much as a 965!!.

And FWIW, I just cleaned out my case and put that CPU in not more than a few weeks ago.

And a *side note for you, be sure to twist the heatsink* before you pull on it. Usually this will break the TIM connection between the 2.


I always do. I apparently used a little too much this time around (I change the thermal paste 2-3 times a year)

if it happens again, A) money towards faster proc, maybe dual 2.4+ or B) try something other then artic silver ceramique


----------



## FnkDctr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well I just happen to have my 3800x2 sitting on my desk and swapped out the CPUs'. Lo and behold turns right on, POSTs, boots up no issues.








What do you guys think?


Sounds fried









I'm going to go home and hug my opty 180 tonight. Let me know when the funeral is.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mattliston*


I always do. I apparently used a little too much this time around (I change the thermal paste 2-3 times a year)

if it happens again, A) money towards faster proc, maybe dual 2.4+ or B) try something other then artic silver ceramique


i bent some pins on my chip, couldn't twist with the stock cooler, eh but everything still worked after straightening them lol


----------



## nategr8ns

^ That used to happen to me a lot (bent pins) but once I broke a pin straightening it







. Poor 3800+.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


^ That used to happen to me a lot (bent pins) but once I broke a pin straightening it







. Poor 3800+.


thank god for google, a billion comps in my house, and my school id for unbending it


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I'm not sure what happened but I think my opty 180 _might_ be dead. I got back from school went upstairs to write a response paper (which I still need to do) and noticed my folding rig, wasn't folding. It wasn't even on for that matter.


BlackOmega, hmmm interesting that the 3800X2 worked fine. Do you think a power surge could have happened today? Dirty power in the neighborhood or random brown-outs can cause your machine to power off as well. I could have sworn you mentioned this before but are your folding rigs on UPS's?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


ugh i'll try and figure this out once i get break from school.
I'll try and get some ram too that matches from some people that might have it


Godofdeath, just let us know. We'll be here ready to answer whatever questions you have









Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Omega Supreme, I hope your Opty 180 hasn't gone up to silicon heaven. Spontaneous death (which probably isn't really all that spontaneous, now that I think about it) is something I've personally never seen happen.

Have you tried the Opty 180 on another board, just to definitively pin the blame on the CPU?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, hmmm interesting that the 3800X2 worked fine. Do you think a power surge could have happened today? Dirty power in the neighborhood or random brown-outs can cause your machine to power off as well. I could have sworn you mentioned this before but are your folding rigs on UPS's?
Good luck


 Unfortunately, the size of the UPS's I would need to power 3 rigs would be pretty crazy therefore making cost prohibitive. Although, I did notice a small amount of TIM on one of the pins. 
As for a power surge, I think it would've been more likely and outage. It's been SUPER windy here lately, 30mph and really gusting a lot. Quite the blustery day.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Omega Supreme, I hope your Opty 180 hasn't gone up to silicon heaven. Spontaneous death (which probably isn't really all that spontaneous, now that I think about it) is something I've personally never seen happen.

Have you tried the Opty 180 on another board, just to definitively pin the blame on the CPU?


 I hope you're right. I have never seen that happen either and I've been in a house where the transformer right outside on the pole got struck by lightning. There were 2 computers on and neither one was damaged. Now on the other hand, my father in laws first plasma screen fried out during a lightning storm. So who knows?

I think I'll try slappin another rig together really quick and see what happens.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Unfortunately, the size of the UPS's I would need to power 3 rigs would be pretty crazy therefore making cost prohibitive. Although, I did notice a small amount of TIM on one of the pins.
As for a power surge, I think it would've been more likely and outage. It's been SUPER windy here lately, 30mph and really gusting a lot. Quite the blustery day.

BlackOmega, when the UPS senses a voltage spike and toggles to battery it's only going to stay on battery power for a split second. So unless you expect a power outage for more than 30 minutes you can still hook all three machines up to a 1000VA or so UPS. A lot of users keep forgetting a UPS just isn't for battery backup but for also power filtration. Obviously the whole purpose of a "UPS" is for battery backup but those devices also do a whole lot more.

I'd rather spend $130 for a UPS rather than hundreds on replacement/new hardware. You did mention you have these on a surge protector right? If not pick one up. Look for one with the highest joule rating.

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, when the UPS senses a voltage spike and toggles to battery it's only going to stay on battery power for a split second. So unless you expect a power outage for more than 30 minutes you can still hook all three machines up to a 1000VA or so UPS. A lot of users keep forgetting a UPS just isn't for battery backup but for also power filtration. Obviously the whole purpose of a "UPS" is for battery backup but those devices also do a whole lot more.

I'd rather spend $130 for a UPS rather than hundreds on replacement/new hardware. You did mention you have these on a surge protector right? If not pick one up. Look for one with the highest joule rating.

Good luck

Good point. I'll look into UPS's. Any good brands to go with? I have rather limited knowledge or experience with them.

And on a positive note, I swapped the 180 in to my other Ultra-D (2x Hyperx), and all seems well. Running some tests on it to make sure everything is ok. Man the XP 120 is barely enough to keep this thing cool.







Hitting 58C at stock clocks @ 1.36v.

And I most definitely am using a surge protector, it's some fancy one for an office. It is a rather large unit, very well built. Can even plug an ethernet cable into it.


----------



## JeremyWW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
JeremyWW, you said in your post here that the above test was not stable because you were not able to "restart" properly. I then replied here mentioning that it may not be your HT Clock speed that is unstable but in fact just a common issue that we share with the board not restarting properly. I wanted you to re-run the Prime95 test to verify stability first. If it passes then I'm thinking your 290Mhz HT Clock is not to blame. You can also lower it to 270 - 280Mhz and see if that helps with the restarts. I noticed any time I overclocked the HT Clock speed my machine would not restart properly at POST. As soon as it hits the drive list it just reboots









If I'm completely misunderstanding you then please by all means disregard my post.

Good luck

I think where I'm coming from is that I'm going to stop playing with this. It's been great 'meeting' you all - thanks for you efforts and patience, but I had no idea what a potentially time consuming hobby this is. I can't afford that realistically so, as I don't believe I have the demands of my rig that some of you have, it probably isn't worth my while. I also don't have enough interest to do it 'for the sake of it'. But thanks anyway - I do mean that.


----------



## FnkDctr

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
A lot of users keep forgetting a UPS just isn't for battery backup but for also power filtration.

Make sure it's a UPS and also an AVR. Some don't do both. Some do.


----------



## Blitz6804

BlackOmega: I have always used American Power Conversion. The good news is that if you ever need to upgrade, you can turn in a old unit (of any manufacturer; working or not) for a credit to a larger unit. It is just like ATi when they used to sell cards to consumers. Power Chute tells you when it is time to change the battery, about every three years, so you do not need to worry about it. What else is cool is that it tells you real-time how much power (in watts) your UPS is providing and what the current voltage is from the outlet. I have never tested the power draw, but the voltage shown matches when I test with a multimeter. When National Grid killed my last one (and refuse to replace it), I have not replaced it yet as I did not have the money. (I needed a bigger unit since I would draw in excess of the 865 W my unit was capable while under load; remind me later to check what my draw is now if ever I get another multimeter.) The good news is that the UPS died instead of my equipment. It is very nice (maybe a bit surreal) to be using your computer, have all the lights go off in the apartment, and you have like twenty minutes to leisurely power down. If you need, some units have the ability to slap another battery on the side of the unit extending their run time. There are also rack mount units that are capable of insane power supply with insane price tags to match. Unless I am mistken, Trip-Lite and OCZ also make UPSes, but as I have said, I have only had experience with American Power Conversion.


----------



## Hueristic

Entire grid went down for last 3 hours here.









Was posting at the time. LOL just my luck.

BO Indeed APC is best choice for personal ups backup but it sounds like a good surge protector is what you need.

I wish I had more time and energy to post in this thread but I have real life issues like keeping a roof over my head so I cannot even get my folding rigs maxed out at this time. DO NOT assume you know more about a person that you met in cyber space than they do. It makes you look like a small person without the ability to see beyond your own nose. And that does not impress us.

that is all.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JeremyWW*


I think where I'm coming from is that I'm going to stop playing with this. It's been great 'meeting' you all - thanks for you efforts and patience, but I had no idea what a potentially time consuming hobby this is. I can't afford that realistically so, as I don't believe I have the demands of my rig that some of you have, it probably isn't worth my while. I also don't have enough interest to do it 'for the sake of it'. But thanks anyway - I do mean that.










JeremyWW, no worries. If you decide to come back we'll be here and ready to assist


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JeremyWW*


I think where I'm coming from is that I'm going to stop playing with this. It's been great 'meeting' you all - thanks for you efforts and patience, but I had no idea what a potentially time consuming hobby this is. I can't afford that realistically so, as I don't believe I have the demands of my rig that some of you have, it probably isn't worth my while. I also don't have enough interest to do it 'for the sake of it'. But thanks anyway - I do mean that.










 Sorry to hear that Jeremy. When you first get in to overclocking it can be somewhat time consuming. But once you get the hang of it, it becomes much easier and quicker. Although, testing is still time consuming, but then again you don't have to sit there and watch it. That'd be kind of like watching grass grow or paint dry.









At any rate like thlnk3r said, whenever you're ready to come back we'll be here to help ya.
Good luck in your future endeavours.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


BlackOmega: I have always used American Power Conversion. The good news is that if you ever need to upgrade, you can turn in a old unit (of any manufacturer; working or not) for a credit to a larger unit. It is just like ATi when they used to sell cards to consumers. Power Chute tells you when it is time to change the battery, about every three years, so you do not need to worry about it. What else is cool is that it tells you real-time how much power (in watts) your UPS is providing and what the current voltage is from the outlet. I have never tested the power draw, but the voltage shown matches when I test with a multimeter. When National Grid killed my last one (and refuse to replace it), I have not replaced it yet as I did not have the money. (I needed a bigger unit since I would draw in excess of the 865 W my unit was capable while under load; remind me later to check what my draw is now if ever I get another multimeter.) The good news is that the UPS died instead of my equipment. It is very nice (maybe a bit surreal) to be using your computer, have all the lights go off in the apartment, and you have like twenty minutes to leisurely power down. If you need, some units have the ability to slap another battery on the side of the unit extending their run time. There are also rack mount units that are capable of insane power supply with insane price tags to match. Unless I am mistken, Trip-Lite and OCZ also make UPSes, but as I have said, I have only had experience with American Power Conversion.


 Thanks for that tid bit blitz. I'll have to check APC out and see what kind of unit I need to at least keep my rigs' on for 5-10 minutes after power loss. I remember I had set one up in a dealership I worked at that also had a program that would shut your rig down, in case you weren't there to do it, when the power on the battery was low. It was a pretty nice unit, it was an APC IIRC. I'll have to check the guidelines as to how much reserve power I'll actually need.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Entire grid went down for last 3 hours here.









Was posting at the time. LOL just my luck.

BO Indeed APC is best choice for personal ups backup but it sounds like a good surge protector is what you need.

I wish I had more time and energy to post in this thread but I have real life issues like keeping a roof over my head so I cannot even get my folding rigs maxed out at this time. DO NOT assume you know more about a person that you met in cyber space than they do. It makes you look like a small person without the ability to see beyond your own nose. And that does not impress us.

that is all.


 Hue, I don't think that the surge protector was the issue as I don't think the power spiked but actually went too low. So in that event even the best surge protector would be fairly useless.

Thanks for the recommendations guys.









PS: Sorry to hear you're having RL issues Hue. Hope everything works out for you. Good Luck .


----------



## Blitz6804

Yep, APC (with Power Chute installed) will automatically shut down when you have 5 minutes of battery life remaining. If you do not have Power Chute installed (which I actually preferred) Windows Vista thinks your computer is a laptop, and gives you the ability to control the battery life just as if you were on a laptop. With Power Chute installed, Vista (and XP) see you as an ordinary desktop, Windows does not recognize a battery installed. However, you can only get wattage / voltage readings with Power Chute installed, so I would install for that purpose, and then uninstall once testing was done. Then again, I am weird like that. The downside is that you will get notification that your battery needs replacing doing that, but you could always note every three years and move on.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I've got two UPSes; one is an APC, the other is a CyberPower.

I got the CyberPower a few months (maybe three months at the most) before the APC, but its battery just died about a month or two ago (thankfully, at that point I didn't have a PC hooked up to it, just some peripherals). The APC is still running super-strong and reliably.

Point is, I have more confidence in APC than in CyberPower.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Point is, I have more confidence in APC than in CyberPower.










Joe, I haven't heard to many things on CyberPower. If I remember right Tripplite makes some pretty good units. Man I can't believe the battery died already in the CyberPower. APC sent me a article and it talked about replacing battery tips ect. I guess the "standard" time for a replacement is 2-3 years. I had mine for almost 4 years and it was still holding charge. I just replaced it recently ($38).


----------



## N2Gaming

So the normal life of a PSU is what 3-5 years? I'm wondering this because I can't imagine an UPS to last much longer then a PSU so would you basically replace one battery and by the time the second battery dies it would almost be time to replace the UPS???


----------



## Blitz6804

I do not know what the nominal life span of a UPS is, I just know that APC says to change the battery every 2-3 years. My UPS died a little under 6 years old, but because National Grid repeatedly flipped my power on and off repeatedly causing a fatal fault. (Now whenever I plug the UPS in, it tells me it is overloaded; there is nothing plugged into it.)


----------



## N2Gaming

how about the warranty on UPS's? Is the warranty period finished? If so maybe you could crack the case on your UPS and see if there is any physical damage or you could send it in for repair at cost if APC offers such service.

Edit.

What would be the better chioce?
3x9800GTX+ 1GB + 9800GT for PhysX
3xGTS250 1GB + 9800GT for PhysX
3x GTX260 1GB ( oh wait they don't come in 1 GB they come in some 896GB or something like that ) + 9800GT for PhysX
???


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


how about the warranty on UPS's? Is the warranty period finished? If so maybe you could crack the case on your UPS and see if there is any physical damage or you could send it in for repair at cost if APC offers such service.


N2Gaming, perhaps this may help:

http://www.apc.com/support/faq.cfm

Quote:



9. How long is APC's warranty on UPSs?
APC's standard UPS warranty is two years from the date of purchase. This warranty includes the battery. You also have the option of purchasing an extended warranty. Go to http://www.apcc.com/support/service/index.cfm for more information.

Please be sure to register your APC product by mailing in the Warranty Card or by registering online at http://www.apcc.com/support/warranty.


----------



## Blitz6804

The warranty is expired yes. And I already called and asked APC, they do not do out-of-warranty repair, even if you pay for it. As far as I know, their warranty is replacement only, hence, out-of-warranty replacement would be covered by the Trade-UPS credit. I just called for my broken unit, they would pay $80 towards a new $560 unit for it.


----------



## N2Gaming

LOL that's pitiful trade up value but never the less something is better then nothing. Any one see my video card question up there ^?


----------



## Blitz6804

The GTS 250 and 9800GTX+ are the same card. Given the listed choices, I would say 3x GTX 260 and forgo the PhysX card altogether. (I missed it due to the fact it was edited in after I already posted and I have been at the doctor the past hour and change.)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


LOL that's pitiful trade up value but never the less something is better then nothing. Any one see my video card question up there ^?


N2Gaming, as long as you replace the battery the unit will last a very long time. There's really no reason to trade-in/upgrade unless you want longer battery life which is almost pointless on a home machine. A Enterprise environment is a different story...


----------



## Blitz6804

Or, you upgrade the equipment that is attached to the UPS. When I first got a UPS, I only had a 450 W PSU and a 15" CRT. When I upgraded to a 550 W and a 22", I needed to upgrade UPSes as that one no longer could meet my power needs. A pair of HD 4870x2s and a 27" only caused that UPS troubles while doing Furmark, but were fine for most gaming scenarios. (With only a single video card, that same size should be fine, but I like to have a little overhead just in case; 10 minutes is better than 5.)


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 

What would be the better chioce?

3x9800GTX+ 1GB + 9800GT for PhysX
3xGTS250 1GB + 9800GT for PhysX
3x GTX260 1GB ( oh wait they don't come in 1 GB they come in some 896GB or something like that ) + 9800GT for PhysX
???

N2, the best out of the bunch are the 260 as long as they're the 216 SP versions. So if you add it all up with 3 260's you have 648 SP with 3 9800GTX+/GTS250's you'd only have 348.
In addition to that the GTX260/216's have a 448bit bus as opposed to the 256 bit bus of the 9800GTX+/GTS250.
So all that will translate in to MUCH better performance with the 260's.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
The GTS 250 and 9800GTX+ are the same card. Given the listed choices, I would say 3x GTX 260 and forgo the PhysX card altogether. (I missed it due to the fact it was edited in after I already posted and I have been at the doctor the past hour and change.)

While they are very similar they're not exactly identical. The GTS 250 has only 1 PCIe plug on it, where as the 9800GTX+ has 2. I do believe that the GTS250's use less power than the 9800GTX+'s. Other than that they're pretty much identical in every other respect.


----------



## N2Gaming

OK thanks guys. I should have thought about the upgrade a while back when the 260's were much cheaper. Oh well. Live and learn.

I hope all works out for you Hueristic.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
OK thanks guys. I should have thought about the upgrade a while back when the 260's were much cheaper. Oh well. Live and learn.

I hope all works out for you Hueristic.

Just wait, they'll drop again around Christmas/New year. They pull this BS every year. Prices are relatively low throughout the year, then a few weeks before some major holiday they raise the prices and they stay there until the holiday, then they drop it back down to the original price to make it seem like you're getting a deal.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
While they are very similar they're not exactly identical. The GTS 250 has only 1 PCIe plug on it, where as the 9800GTX+ has 2. I do believe that the GTS250's use less power than the 9800GTX+'s. Other than that they're pretty much identical in every other respect.

Even better... same number of processors at the same speed with the same amount of RAM on the same bus, but 75 W less power, what could possibly be better? The problem is that many places charge you FAR more just for that lower power requirement. And, unless I am mistaken, they can clock slightly faster even if the same stock clock.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Even better... same number of processors at the same speed with the same amount of RAM on the same bus, but 75 W less power, *what could possibly be better?* The problem is that many places charge you FAR more just for that lower power requirement. And, unless I am mistaken, they can clock slightly faster even if the same stock clock.


3 260/216's







. That would annihilate those GTS/GTX+'s. then add a nice single slot 9800GT for physx (I know it's not needed but why the hell not?) On top of that, that would make for one monsterous folding rig, I think you'd get at least 30k per day out of that using GPU's alone.


----------



## Blitz6804

Oh, obviously. I too already said 3x GTX 260 is the way to go*, but the comment went toward the choice between a GTS 250 / 9800 GTX+.

*Of the options presented. I wonder how 3x GTX 285 works?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Oh, obviously. I too already said 3x GTX 260 is the way to go*, but the comment went toward the choice between a GTS 250 / 9800 GTX+.

*Of the options presented. I wonder how 3x GTX 285 works?


 I bet those 3 285's wouldn't equate to 2 5870's







.

As for the GTS/GTX+, yeah it seems as all of the newer stuff on the smaller die's tends to OC a hell of a lot better (not only GPU's).


----------



## Blitz6804

I see here and there 2x HD 5970 reviews and I have to say I am impressed how much better they supposedly scale than 2x HD 4870x2. Some games show as high as an 89% improvement from one card (2 cores) to two cards (4 cores). If the HD 4870x2 did that, I would not have upgraded.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Don't worry thlnk3r I'm not mentioning all of this hardware trying to sell it here. I know what the for sale thread is for, I'm just listing it to show what I have as leverage to try and come up w/better GPU's.


N2Gaming, true but you're still technically advertising items that may potentially be for sale









Let's make sure we abide by the rules.


----------



## Blitz6804

Does anyone know how to force Microsoft Office Excel 12 (2007) to use more CPU power? I have it set in the options to use all four cores, and it is still only using about 25% of my CPU's overall processing capability, with the end result that it is taking up to two minutes to open this database and about thirty seconds to manipulate each formula.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Does anyone know how to force Microsoft Office Excel 12 (2007) to use more CPU power? I have it set in the options to use all four cores, and it is still only using about 25% of my CPU's overall processing capability, with the end result that it is taking up to two minutes to open this database and about thirty seconds to manipulate each formula.


Blitz, check out: http://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/aa730921.aspx. Look specifically for: _Figure 3. Advanced calculation options_.

Hope that helps


----------



## mattliston

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Does anyone know how to force Microsoft Office Excel 12 (2007) to use more CPU power? I have it set in the options to use all four cores, and it is still only using about 25% of my CPU's overall processing capability, with the end result that it is taking up to two minutes to open this database and about thirty seconds to manipulate each formula.


set the process priority a lil higher.


----------



## Blitz6804

thlnk3r: Yep, already tried both "Use all processors on this computer: 4" and "Manual: 4." In either event, it will only use 25%. It clearly does stress all four cores, but the aggregate stays at 25%.

mattliston: No other programs are competing for resources. System idle is 93% prior to opening Excel, and 68% while doing so. For fun, I tried setting priority to high anyway, and still it only uses 25%.


----------



## mattliston

well, Ive noticed on my computer doing various things, cpu usage remained the same or slightly more, but the actual event was done noticeably faster

EDIT dont ask em how it does this, my only guess is that in normal prioity, even thoguh its using XX%, it is still hopping between several processes, while in above normal or higher, its only hopping through a few at a time, making better use of teh same resources

again, this is a guess/theory lol


----------



## Blitz6804

*Busts out stopwatch.*

Normal priority: Data.xlsx opens in 89.6s
High priority: Data.xlsx opens in 88.9s

Interesting to see there is an improvement, even if by 0.8%.


----------



## godofdeath

here's my comp

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=876107

non oc til later maybe


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


here's my comp

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=876107

non oc til later maybe



godofdeath,

I see this is not overclocked but I am wondering why then your memory speeds are only 158mhz. If this is truely stock, your pc3200 (ddr400) memory should be at or near 200 mhz. If your not overclocking, you should not need to lower your divider or anything. Just curious. BTW, I think you should still be able to get a fairly decent OC out of this system with limited effort or voltage increase. Whenever your ready...good luck.


----------



## Blitz6804

It is because he has 3 GB of RAM. With K8s, if you use more than 2 GB of RAM with all four DIMMs populated, your memory divider might need to be reduced to DDR-333. With 4x 1024 it absolutely must, but some people can run 2x1024+2x512 in DDR-400.

201.05 * (333/400) = 167.37
2211.5 / 167.37 = 13.21 ==> 14
2211.5 / 14 = 158

If he was running an even multiplier, you would notice he would have DDR-335, but due to the ceiling requirement (seen in step two) odd multipliers can sometimes produce RAM speeds slower than the divider alone would indicate.


----------



## FnkDctr

Also the 4 memory sticks will run at 2t, you can force 1t, but you may get crashes or bsod.

I prefer to overclock my 2gb to 500mhz and run at 1t, 3-3-3-7


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
It is because he has 3 GB of RAM. With K8s, if you use more than 2 GB of RAM with all four DIMMs populated, your memory divider might need to be reduced to DDR-333. With 4x 1024 it absolutely must, but some people can run 2x1024+2x512 in DDR-400.

201.05 * (333/400) = 167.37
2211.5 / 167.37 = 13.21 ==> 14
2211.5 / 14 = 158

If he was running an even multiplier, you would notice he would have DDR-335, but due to the ceiling requirement (seen in step two) odd multipliers can sometimes produce RAM speeds slower than the divider alone would indicate.


Awesome explanation, thank you. I guess I did know about the 4x 1024 scenario, but I never thought about the odd multiplier or that you may have limitations just because you are over 2gigs of memory. This is why I love this forum, I learn something almost daily.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


It is because he has 3 GB of RAM. With K8s, if you use more than 2 GB of RAM with all four DIMMs populated, your memory divider might need to be reduced to DDR-333. *With 4x 1024 it absolutely must,* but some people can run 2x1024+2x512 in DDR-400.


 Really? I never had any issues running my 4 x 1GB XMS's at DDR 400. Or even my HyperX for that matter.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Really? I never had any issues running my 4 x 1GB XMS's at DDR 400. Or even my HyperX for that matter.


I'm able to run DDR433 (and higher) with my 4x1GB sticks.

However by DEFAULT it has to run on a DDR333 (166Mhz) divider. You MIGHT run into stability issues with 4 dimms at the DDR400 (200MHz) divider.

EDIT:
Heck I can get into Windows at DDR550 and get screenshots (right before a BSOD) with 4GB of RAM.


----------



## N2Gaming

I recently was able to run mixed densities of DDR400 w/some DDR500 at DDR 500 timings and DDR400 spd's and then run DDR400 ram w/the DDR500 ram at DDR500 spds and timings both times RAM count = 4GB/4x1GB

Edit: I'm not recommending it but it can be done.


----------



## Blitz6804

The issue is not the physical speed (as Poser has shown running 4x1024 @ DDR-510 and more) but with the divider. Except in a few cases, you generally cannot use the DDR-400 (or higher) divider with 4x1024. I will occasionally see Manchester cores running 4x1024 1:1, but not often. I believe the Manchester has a better memory controller than a Toledo, but do not quote me on that.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


The issue is not the physical speed (as Poser has shown running 4x1024 @ DDR-510 and more) but with the divider. Except in a few cases, you generally cannot use the DDR-400 (or higher) divider with 4x1024. I will occasionally see Manchester cores running 4x1024 1:1, but not often. I believe the Manchester has a better memory controller than a Toledo, but do not quote me on that.


With my rigs...the Manchester most DEFINITELY has a better memory controller than my Denmark.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
thlnk3r: Yep, already tried both "Use all processors on this computer: 4" and "Manual: 4." In either event, it will only use 25%. It clearly does stress all four cores, but the aggregate stays at 25%.

Blitz, sounds like it's splitting the work across all the cores. Can you make Office 2007 use just one core for testing? Just to elaborate, what kind of worksheet are you running in Excel? Reason I ask is because I open some pretty large xls documents at work I hardly experience any delay. I think you need to change your avatar title to, "Power User"


----------



## FnkDctr

Has anyone got 4 sticks to run stable at 1t? I was thinking about going for 4gb myself and trying it.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FnkDctr*


Has anyone got 4 sticks to run stable at 1t? I was thinking about going for 4gb myself and trying it.


It can be done, but prepare to go stability testing for a good long time changing your RAM settings, as well as hoping that you've got a good-enough motherboard and BIOS that are attuned to handle the ICs in your RAM.


----------



## N2Gaming

Yeah why can't the guys at foxconn hire the guys that wrote the bios files for the Lanparty series " Expert mobo's to be more precise ' ??? I'm sure they could make my Destroyer bios so much better IMO.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Yeah why can't the guys at foxconn hire the guys that wrote the bios files for the Lanparty series " Expert mobo's to be more precise ' ??? I'm sure they could make my Destroyer bios so much better IMO.


 I think everbody should take a good look at all of the 939 DFI LP UT boards BIOS. They all have a VERY extensive BIOS with tons of settings that can be tweaked. It seems as though MSI is getting better at it, at least they're using Japanese caps.

But you know what would be really nice? If they actually standardized the names of settings i.e. CPU VID, rather than each mobo manufacturer calling it something different.


----------



## N2Gaming

Yeah really. Man your still awake or are you just waking up?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Yeah why can't the guys at foxconn hire the guys that wrote the bios files for the Lanparty series " Expert mobo's to be more precise ' ??? I'm sure they could make my Destroyer bios so much better IMO.


Actually, it goes a little bit more beyond that in the case of the S939 DFI LANParty series boards. According to information found on another forum, each board was attuned to handle specific types of RAM ICs.









The Venus and CFX3200, apparently, were supposed to be the cream of the crop, but they are not for overclockers without a ton of patience. I can attest to the goofiness that is the CFX3200...

If that's not a neurotic amount of attention to detail, I don't know what is.


----------



## N2Gaming

LOL well if I ever get that Venus running I'll let you know how finiky it is


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


LOL well if I ever get that Venus running I'll let you know how finiky it is










Go for it!

If you do, it may just be the inspiration I need to get the CFX3200 up and running as a legit rig again! It's running, but purely as a hardware tester right now.


----------



## N2Gaming

Sighhhhhhhhhh, I'm kind of putting it off for a day when I am feeling much better. I need to solder some Traces " well re-route some of the traces w/wires " to bypass the broken traces and I already know it's gonna be a. It was a pulling salvage Caps off of one of the two Expert boards I got to fix one of them. So I already know I need a different Iron tip before I even try to do it and maybe bring the work indoors where the temperatures are a bit warmer then in my Garage.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Sighhhhhhhhhh, I'm kind of putting it off for a day when I am feeling much better. I need to solder some Traces " well re-route some of the traces w/wires " to bypass the broken traces and I already know it's gonna be a. It was a pulling salvage Caps off of one of the two Expert boards I got to fix one of them. So I already know I need a different Iron tip before I even try to do it and maybe bring the work indoors where the temperatures are a bit warmer then in my Garage.










Well, I'm gonna be rooting for ya all the way.







I know exactly what you mean about "feeling much better."

That's one of those projects I know I can't handle myself. If and when you do get it going, perhaps you can show us here all you've done and tried; I'm sure we can all learn something.


----------



## N2Gaming

Oh you know I will. So how you doing these days any way? Are you still busy as ever? Are you running Host servers from your own Cave?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Yeah really. Man your still awake or are you just waking up?


 I was still awake studying for an exam that I had to take first thing in the morning.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Actually, it goes a little bit more beyond that in the case of the S939 DFI LANParty series boards. According to information found on another forum, each board was attuned to handle specific types of RAM ICs.









The Venus and CFX3200, apparently, were supposed to be the cream of the crop, but they are not for overclockers without a ton of patience. I can attest to the goofiness that is the CFX3200...

If that's not a neurotic amount of attention to detail, I don't know what is.










 That's very interesting, I didn't know they got that crazy about the RAM IC's.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Go for it!

If you do, it may just be the inspiration I need to get the CFX3200 up and running as a legit rig again! It's running, but purely as a hardware tester right now.










 Better than my CFX3200, it's just sitting in a box. I was going to set it up as a folder but it's just easier to have to matching boards for troubleshooting and testing purposes. I can just swap them out and not have to worry about drivers and such. Although, for what it's worth, the CFX3200 is a pretty good overclocker as soon as you get past the cold boot issue.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Blitz, sounds like it's splitting the work across all the cores. Can you make Office 2007 use just one core for testing? Just to elaborate, what kind of worksheet are you running in Excel? Reason I ask is because I open some pretty large xls documents at work I hardly experience any delay. I think you need to change your avatar title to, "Power User"









Yes, it is splitting the work, but it will not use more CPU. If even it used 50%, things would operate much faster.

As to the file, it started off as a 198 MB TSV (Tab Separated Value) file. When I opened it in Notepad, I would use about 520 MB of RAM and it took about two minutes to open it. So I opened Excel (in 03 compatibility like I always do) and it could not be opened. As many of you know, Excel 03 can only have 65,536 rows and 256 columns per worksheet. So I told it to operate in Excel 07 mode and opened it again. The raw data filled from A1 to CU559527, making it some 559,527 rows by 99 columns.

In case you were curious, this is data of every single person sent to prison in the United States in the year 2007. It tells me everything about them from date of birth, level of education, sentence for longest offense, other offenses, et cetera. I have since pared out the data I do not need (most of the columns via copy-pasting) and split each state onto its own worksheet. The largest of which is California at 120,323 rows. (All have 19 columns.)

After processing the raw data, I had to start making formulae which do what I want with it. For example, one formula (for California) is:

Code:



Code:


=ROUND((
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=10),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999),'California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000)+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=11),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999),'California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000)+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=12),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999),'California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000)+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=13),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999),'California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000)+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=14),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999),'California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000)+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=15),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999),'California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000)+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=16),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999),'California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000)+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=20),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999),'California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000)+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=21),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999),'California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000)+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=22),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999),'California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000)+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=30),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999),'California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000)+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=31),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999),'California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000)+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=32),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999),'California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000)+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=40),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999),'California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000)+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=41),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999),'California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000)+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=42),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999),'California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000)+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=90),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999),'California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000)+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=91),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999),'California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000)+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=92),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999),'California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000)+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=100),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999),'California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000)+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=101),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999),'California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000)+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=102),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999),'California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000)+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=120),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999),'California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000)+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=121),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999),'California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000)+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=122),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999),'California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000)+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=130),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999),'California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000)+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=131),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999),'California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000)+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=132),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999),'California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000)+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=140),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999),'California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000)+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=141),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999),'California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000)+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=142),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999),'California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000)+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=150),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999),'California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000)+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=151),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999),'California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000)+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=152),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999),'California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000)+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=160),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999),'California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000)+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=161),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999),'California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000)+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=162),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999),'California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000)+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=170),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999),'California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000)+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=171),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999),'California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000)+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=172),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999),'California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000)+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=180),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999),'California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000)
)/(
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=10),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999))+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=11),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999))+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=12),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999))+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=13),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999))+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=14),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999))+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=15),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999))+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=16),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999))+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=20),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999))+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=21),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999))+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=22),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999))+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=30),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999))+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=31),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999))+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=32),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999))+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=40),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999))+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=41),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999))+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=42),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999))+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=90),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999))+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=91),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999))+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=92),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999))+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=100),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999))+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=101),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999))+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=102),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999))+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=120),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999))+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=121),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999))+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=122),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999))+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=130),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999))+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=131),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999))+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=132),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999))+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=140),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999))+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=141),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999))+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=142),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999))+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=150),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999))+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=151),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999))+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=152),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999))+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=160),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999))+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=161),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999))+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=162),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999))+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=170),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999))+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=171),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999))+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=172),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999))+
SUMPRODUCT(-('California (6)'!$P$2:$P$132000=180),-('California (6)'!$Q$2:$Q$132000<99999))
),2)

At least, that is the code as written. Apparently, Excel has a limit of 8192 characters per formula, so that had to be broken into three cells: =ROUND(Numerator/Denominator,2), =Numerator, and =Denominator.

What that code does is that it takes everyone from the state of California who committed a Violent offense against a person (Column P, defined by Massachusetts Department of Corrections as Murder, Manslaughter, Vehicular Manslaughter, or other Homicide, Kidnapping, Robbery (armed or otherwise), Carjacking, Assault of any flavor, Child Abuse, Blackmail, Extortion, or Racketeering, or any other violent offense such as Assisting a Suicide, Endangerment, et cetera, or the attempt or conspiracy to commit the same) and takes their sentence (Column Q, in months) and divides by their person to determine the average sentence in months for a violent offense. The same is done for sex crimes (defined again by Massachusetts as Rape, Statutory Rape, Sexual Assault, Forcible Sodomy, or Child Molestation, or the attempt or conspiracy to commit the same). This is repeated for all states that report data. In case you were curious, in California, the average sentence is 87.48 and 87.37 months respectfully; the national average is 81.42 and 105.87 months respectfully. One small flaw though: that formula is designed to exclude life sentences, life plus a term of years, life without parole, and death sentences, simply as I do not know how to average them in. This will give states with active death rows a lower apparent sentence.

The reason why I am doing all this: I wanted to see what effect having voter input in judicial selection has on sentencing. My contention is that a judge who must be reelected every few years would be more likely give longer sentences than those who are appointed by the governor without voter oversight. Case in point however, is that these files abuse my computer something fierce, at one point during transferring of data between them I have seen RAM usage as high as 28%. If this post is too long, please let me know, and I will pare most of it out to a blog post and just link over.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Yes, it is splitting the work, but it will not use more CPU. If even it used 50%, things would operate much faster.


Blitz, see my last question. If Excel only uses one core does it max it out at 100%? Here's a list taken from MSN that shows which features do not work with MTC (multithreaded calculation) just FYI:

Quote:



Some Excel features do not use multithreaded calculation, for example:

Data table calculation (but structured references to tables do use MTC).
User-defined functions (but XLL functions can be multithread-enabled).
XLM functions.
INDIRECT, CELL functions that use either the format2 or address options.
GETPIVOTDATA and other functions referring to PivotTables or cubes.
Range.Calculate and Range.CalculateRowMajorOrder.
Cells in circular reference loops.


Also another FYI, I received a doc from a customer this week in .xlsx format that used all 65,536 (yes seriously haha) rows and it opened almost instantly granted I was not transferring data but everything was still fine. I'm on a P4 2.8 with 1GB of memory.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

If it is limited at 65,536, then it would be an XLS, not an XLSX. What is a "Data table calculation?" I only use SUMPRODUCT, division, and ROUND as above. Would that be a user-defined function since I use a mixture in one cell?

Okay, testing done... seems Excel ignores me. Whether Multi-threaded calculation is enabled or disabled, I get a 40% load on cores 1 and 3, a 10% load on cores 0 and 2.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


If it is limited at 65,536, then it would be an XLS, not an XLSX. What is a "Data table calculation?" I only use SUMPRODUCT, division, and ROUND as above. Would that be a user-defined function since I use a mixture in one cell?

Okay, testing done... seems Excel ignores me. Whether Multi-threaded calculation is enabled or disabled, I get a 40% load on cores 1 and 3, a 10% load on cores 0 and 2.


Blitz, hmmm perhaps it was a .xls document then. Though I swear I could remember it being .xlsx because my Office 2007 converter popped up....

In any case I'd suggest performing a Google search on each of the terms above as I am unsure what they are. I just grabbed them from the MSN website hoping you would know. Also check out this blog entry on a calculation issue: http://blogs.msdn.com/excel/archive/...ue-update.aspx (not sure if that helps or not but it discusses calculation issues around 65,535.)

Sorry I wish I could help out more. Maybe you could split the documents in half into 6 month ranges?

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Oh, that is different bag of worms. If you open an XLSX in Excel 03 via Microsoft's converter, it will only convert the first 65,536 rows. I have tried opening the database in Excel 03 on my Barton laptop (do not even think about asking how long that took) and the states like California with more than 65,536 rows all were missing data, thereby producing different calculated values than those of the XLSX in Excel 07.


----------



## ny_driver

hey, I was wondering what you guys say is the max safe operating temperature for my Opty 170-939 chip....it's idling at 42c right now.


----------



## Blitz6804

All dual-core 939 Opterons have a maximum temperature of 65Âº C according to AMD.


----------



## Tator Tot

@Thlnk3r, download and use OpenOffice if you don't have MS Office 07. It'll allow you to use the full potential of DocX & XLSX files.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


hey, I was wondering what you guys say is the max safe operating temperature for my Opty 170-939 chip....it's idling at 42c right now.


According to AMD it's 65*C


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
hey, I was wondering what you guys say is the max safe operating temperature for my Opty 170-939 chip....it's idling at 42c right now.

A good question would be why is the idle temperature so high? What is your ambient temperature (temperature of the room you're in)?


----------



## ny_driver

The room temp is about 23-24c and I have the Vcore up to 1.45-1.475. I had to crank up the Vcore to get it to boot @ 260 FSB, but I think I am right near the edge of the FSB limit. I am experimenting, but can't adjust multiplier so it's kinda complicated. EDIT:It won't boot with the Vcore any lower.


----------



## Blitz6804

Thlnk3r: An update. If I insert a row or a column the worksheet such that it moves one of the cells containing formula of the type above, it then will recompute with 100% of all four cores. Telling it to use only one core again uses the 10/40/10/40% split.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Thlnk3r: An update. If I insert a row or a column the worksheet such that it moves one of the cells containing formula of the type above, it then will recompute with 100% of all four cores. Telling it to use only one core again uses the 10/40/10/40% split.

Blitz, I think what you were doing previously wasn't using the MTC feature...that is my guess


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


The room temp is about 23-24c and I have the Vcore up to 1.45-1.475. I had to crank up the Vcore to get it to boot @ 260 FSB, but I think I am right near the edge of the FSB limit. I am experimenting, but can't adjust multiplier so it's kinda complicated.


I think the idle temperature is too high given the ambient temperature you're observing. That might mean your Freezer 64 Pro cannot deal with a 90nm dual-core's heat output (my own experience with the Freezer 64 Pro strongly suggests this), or maybe the heatsink isn't mounted optimally.

The Freezer 64 Pro worked well with my old San Diego 3700+, but proved inadequate once I started OCing my first dual-core, an X2 4400+. I tried mounting and remounting that heatsink so many times, using different TIMs, but the results were consistently bad. Either the design is inadequate for dealing with the increased thermal output of a dual-core, or I had a dud Freezer 64 Pro.









Personally, since it worked fine on a single-core, I'm inclined to think it was just simply not up to the job of dissipating the heat output from two cores.


----------



## ny_driver

Thanks for your insight! I just race tested for about an hour, and the max core temps were 50/51c. As far as the ambiant temp. goes, I usually keep it a few degrees cooler in here, but that's probably not going to change it a whole lot.

I don't see why I have to crank the Vcore up quite so far to get 260 FSB.EDIT: I did just install the chip last night, but I installed the HSF 3 times before I was satisfied.


----------



## Hueristic

What's max vcore for manchesters? I'm hitting a wall @2.66


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


What's max vcore for manchesters? I'm hitting a wall @2.66


Hue, on air the absolute max I'd dare go is 1.5V for something like a suicide run. For 24/7 stability-type setups, 1.45V.

ny_driver, what racing game did you play? Most racing games don't push the CPU to its max load capacity, so 50-51 degs C at the cores is likely not the max your setup will go. A stress testing program such as Orthos or OCCT or S&M will help you determine your setup's thermal limits.









On the other hand, if that's the most stressful thing you'll likely ever run on your machine, there's the school of thought that you're fine just the way your setup currently is.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
What's max vcore for manchesters? I'm hitting a wall @2.66

1.65v letting temps permit


----------



## ny_driver

I was just playing GTLegends with everything on high and far, and at night.
Not sure how cpu intensive that is. I just wonder if it's my mobo is limiting me at the FSB, or if the chip is maxed out so I have to turn up the Vcore to get it to run. EDIT: 250 FSB np with stock 1.35 Vcore.

Because of all the AGP/939/184pin stuff I have, I'm planning to convert my moms old xp1800 pc to a 939 with my 3700+. I'm looking at this MSI K8N Neo 2 Platinum to try in place of my ABIT AV8. I wonder if I'll have any better luck?


----------



## godofdeath

ok my friend has some ram says he'll give me once he gets back from being abroad
mushkin
model 991373
which is this
http://www.mushkin.com/Memory/Essentials/991373.aspx

so should i use that with my value select since they are the same times
however I think they are different volts these being .1 higher


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *godofdeath* 
ok my friend has some ram says he'll give me once he gets back from being abroad
mushkin
model 991373
which is this
http://www.mushkin.com/Memory/Essentials/991373.aspx

so should i use that with my value select since they are the same times
however I think they are different volts these being .1 higher

You can, but 939 machines have a hard time running 4 slots populated.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

godofdeath, there's more to RAM compatibility than just comparing timing ratings. Far more important is knowing what ICs (integrated circuits) the RAM you're running has. Mixing ICs is never a good idea when overclocking, as each type of IC has specific characteristics and, therefore, behavior when overclocked.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


1.65v letting temps permit


























EDIT: Hey Joe I answered your post but it must have got lost in the cloud.









I stopped at 1.45 as I wasn't sure and It is one of my [email protected] chips so I don't want to burn it out on a suicide. But I want to find the max while on the dfi with the true before I pop my opty on that board.

I had to up from stock @2.5 to 1.45 @2.66 quite a jump I must say. I'm pretty sure I've got this chips wall pegged.







Same wall @ X7 X7.5 X8 X8.5. I haven't tried 9-10x yet. but I'm not hopeful.

Was hoping for better. I'll spend some more time on it tomorrow but I don't look good.

But I'm betting my opty will do 3g. Unless my suicide a few months back killed it, It hasn't been the same. I shouldn't have tried that dureing the summer!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
Thanks for your insight! I just race tested for about an hour, and the max core temps were 50/51c. As far as the ambiant temp. goes, I usually keep it a few degrees cooler in here, but that's probably not going to change it a whole lot.

I don't see why I have to crank the Vcore up quite so far to get 260 FSB.EDIT: I did just install the chip last night, but I installed the HSF 3 times before I was satisfied.

Is your NB voltage adjustable? That usually helps when you start getting to the higher reference clock (FSB). Unfortunately I have no experience with the Abit boards so that's about as much as I can help you at the moment.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
What's max vcore for manchesters? I'm hitting a wall @2.66

I think I was only able to pull 2700 out of my 3800x2, and IIRC that took quite a bit of voltage, but being that it is lapped and I used a lapped cooler made it a lot less hairy when adding the volts. IIRC, I took it all the way to 1.7v. It would run nice and stable at 2500 with a relatively low vcore, but since it just sits there idling, no point in it being OC'd.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
But I'm betting my opty will do 3g. Unless my suicide a few months back killed it, It hasn't been the same. I shouldn't have tried that dureing the summer!









Hue, no problem regarding the lost reply.









I doubt one suicide run would harm the chip, even if it was run during the summer.







Perhaps the perceived different performance may be explained by other factors instead (maybe some corrupted OS bits incurred during the suicide run, or something similar). These CPUs are gluttons for punishment; other than something accidental which does physical damage on the chip, it's quite surprising what kind of abuse they can tolerate.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Hue, no problem regarding the lost reply.









I doubt one suicide run would harm the chip, even if it was run during the summer.







Perhaps the perceived different performance may be explained by other factors instead (maybe some corrupted OS bits incurred during the suicide run, or something similar). These CPUs are gluttons for punishment; other than something accidental which does physical damage on the chip, it's quite surprising what kind of abuse they can tolerate.









I'll attest to that. 1.92v anyone?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I'll attest to that. *1.92v* anyone?









Seriously?!?










(And I thought pio and Kryton were cuckoo bananas...







)


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Seriously?!?










(And I thought pio and Kryton were cuckoo bananas...







)











 Yes sir, my 3500+, still works great to this day







, it actually posted at that voltage, but then subsequently BSOD'd. I think I was going for something crazy like 3250 or 3300. Then I had my delidded heatsink mishap and the thing got too hot (84C @ idle







) and I haven't been able to get past 2850 with it.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Yes sir, my 3500+, still works great to this day







, it actually posted at that voltage, but then subsequently BSOD'd. I think I was going for something crazy like 3250 or 3300. Then I had my delidded heatsink mishap and the thing got too hot (84C @ idle







) and I haven't been able to get past 2850 with it.


Holy moly... that's some kind of record with that Venice... (it IS a Venice, right?)


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Holy moly... that's some kind of record with that Venice... (it IS a Venice, right?)










 Yep she's a venice. It was the one I bought for the sole purpose of delidding it. Well when I first got it, I just installed to make sure it works. Well while I had it in there, I played around with it for a little while and got it to ~3100 pretty easily but the temps were pretty high, IIRC 56C idle with an ambient of 20. So then I popped the top but didn't ensure that the cooler made adequate contact with the chip (







). Well it didn't, like I said she got to 84C.
At any rate I sanded down the feet of the retention bracket down, it made good contact with adequate pressure. Put it back in, and she won't budge no matter how much voltage I pump in to her (1.92v).


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I'll attest to that. 1.92v anyone?










W0W



















































Well with 1.525 I can post @2800 but not get into win and can run 2750. Temps load at 50c. My addition in nice and cool now I let the wood stove die out a few hours ago and it's about 50f in there.

I'm checking for [email protected] stable right now. LOL .225v for 84mhz! LMAO!


----------



## N2Gaming

I have a naked venice 3500+


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


W0W



















































Well with 1.525 I can post @2800 but not get into win and can run 2750. Temps load at 50c. My addition in nice and cool now I let the wood stove die out a few hours ago and it's about 50f in there.

I'm checking for [email protected] stable right now. LOL .225v for 84mhz! LMAO!


 I can get it to POST and validate at 1.88v







. 
I'll have to swap my opty out of the folding rig. Been so busy that after making sure that it was ok, I just left it on folding.

Man you've got it like an icebox in there, 13C!!!!!! 
I'm sitting here at a cozy 22C







. I love lapped stuff. No matter what it is, it idles at ambient temp. My 720 sitting @ 1.496v 24/7 has yet to see the temps over 48C.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

One thing's for sure: No one on OCN can ever accuse us Club S939ers of lacking sheer courage when it comes to pushing the limits!

Either that, or we have the most members who belong in some kind of insane asylum!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*









One thing's for sure: No one on OCN can ever accuse us Club S939ers of lacking sheer courage when it comes to pushing the limits!

Either that, or we have the most members who belong in some kind of insane asylum!










 There's a fine line between genius and insanity?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


My 720 sitting @ 1.496v 24/7 has yet to see the temps over 48C.

































Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Either that, or we have the most members who belong in some kind of insane asylum!


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, they can accuse me. I am the one who refuses to go more than 50 mV over for a 24/7 stable setting. Then again, I tried giving my Toledo 1.8 V once to get it to go 1 GHz overclock. It refused.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Well, they can accuse me. * I am the one who refuses to go more than 50 mV over for a 24/7 stable setting*. Then again, I tried giving my Toledo 1.8 V once to get it to go 1 GHz overclock. It refused.


 Normally, I am too. Although, that's the sole reason I lapped the 720 almost immediately after getting it. I knew it could go higher but the temps were getting to warm for my liking. 
Do you recall all of our surmising about the max temp/VID? I'm a firm believer of that. I think we came to the conclusion that there's no real way of proving it.I think that there could be. 
It can be proven but itwould require a lot of time to test stability, and there would have to be a way to measure OS corruption. Although with all of the revisions you would only be able to establish approximations.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Man you've got it like an icebox in there, 13C!!!!!! 
I'm sitting here at a cozy 22C


BlackOmega, I only wish I was allowed to have temperatures like that in my house. If it's cold in my house my wife instantly demands the heater to be turned on









EDIT: I take that back. Last weekend it was 13C in my house but I got in trouble for not turning on the heater when she came home haha


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, I only wish I was allowed to have temperatures like that in my house. If it's cold in my house my wife instantly demands the heater to be turned on









EDIT: I take that back. Last weekend it was 13C in my house but I got in trouble for not turning on the heater when she came home haha


thlnk3r: Psst. Go with H2O on your next build.







Like that schmuck whose AM3 motherboard you've got...


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, I only wish I was allowed to have temperatures like that in my house. If it's cold in my house my wife instantly demands the heater to be turned on









EDIT: I take that back. Last weekend it was 13C in my house but I got in trouble for not turning on the heater when she came home haha


 Lol, some women can't ever get warm. I think they're







.

And since my second folding rig is down my wife has been complaining that the upstairs is too cold.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Lol, some women can't ever get warm. I think they're







.

And since my second folding rig is down my wife has been complaining that the upstairs is too cold.









So, Omega Supreme, what you're really saying is that we boys should have full license and financial freedom to build as many hot, noisy, overclocked rigs as possible! Especially if the femmes complain that it gets too cold when one of our machines goes down!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
thlnk3r: Psst. Go with H2O on your next build.







Like that schmuck whose AM3 motherboard you've got...

Joe, I'm going to pass on H2O and go straight to Fusion cooling....


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe, I'm going to pass on H2O and go straight with Fusion cooling....









Silly me. I invested in the wrong tech again!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
So, Omega Supreme, what you're really saying is that we boys should have full license and financial freedom to build as many hot, noisy, overclocked rigs as possible! Especially if the femmes complain that it gets too cold when one of our machines goes down!









Precisely.









And actually, my folding rigs are fairly quiet. Definitely quieter than the damn furnace.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 







Silly me. I invested in the wrong tech again!









It only costs around $380 for a full Phase Change unit.

http://www.overclock.net/hardware-ne...se-change.html


----------



## Hueristic

Well this is a fun one. 1.375v I need to replace the value ram to try to get a higher htt.


----------



## Menace

Hello, here is my socket 939 system. Got it to 2.5Ghz with only +50mV. I had to lower my ram speed from 400mhz to 333mhz and HTT to 4


http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=878041


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


It only costs around $380 for a full Phase Change unit.

http://www.overclock.net/hardware-ne...se-change.html


Tator, I was thinking more like Nuclear reactor coolant haha.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Menace*


Hello, here is my socket 939 system. Got it to 2.5Ghz with only +50mV. I had to lower my ram speed from 400mhz to 333mhz and HTT to 4

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=878041


Menace, welcome to the club and Overclock.net









I added your overclock to the roster. You're looking pretty good at 2.5Ghz (1.392 volts). It looks like you still have some breathing room with your cpu voltage. Give that 3800+ X2 a bump to 2.6Ghz and see how it performs. The Toledo cores were a bit more friendly when it came to overclocking versus the Manchester core.

Good luck


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator, I was thinking more like Nuclear reactor coolant haha.


Baby steps man.









Besides, You can just use that on your Socket 939 gear.

Drop in a full custom phase unit on your AM3 rig


----------



## Blitz6804

My biggest complaint with active cooling solutions (phase change, peltier, et cetera) is that they cause more heat to be created in the room than they remove from the processor. Granted, a water cooling pump will produce a little bit of heat, it is nothing like having a compressor sitting next to you at all times.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


My biggest complaint with active cooling solutions (phase change, peltier, et cetera) is that they cause more heat to be created in the room than they remove from the processor. Granted, a water cooling pump will produce a little bit of heat, it is nothing like having a compressor sitting next to you at all times.


It all depends.

Most of the compressors that are in a Phase unit designed for 24/7 use are less than 1/4th the size of a window AC unit.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Menace* 
Hello, here is my socket 939 system. Got it to 2.5Ghz with only +50mV. I had to lower my ram speed from 400mhz to 333mhz and HTT to 4


http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=878041


----------



## kwint

Bah, hit a wall at 2.5 ghz today. Started super pi and it BSOD'd.

Way to go menace! Welcome!


----------



## Menace

Thanks guys. I'm gonna try and hit 2.7Ghz next week but most likely I'll need to change memory timings and both the HT & Cpu multiplier. I crashed at 2.55ghz during Intel Burn Test but was stable at 2.53.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kwint* 
Bah, hit a wall at 2.5 ghz today. Started super pi and it BSOD'd.

Way to go menace! Welcome!

That's where I hit the wa;; on my manchester as well.

I suicided my 3200+ yesterday. I'll have to swap it out to get the cpuz. Funny thing is it topped at 2.75 same as the 3800X2. Died at 1.9065v temps were in the 30's and ambients were 7.8c.

Can't find the validation on the site so I gotta get the link from the system when I toss the opty in. Probably tomorrow when my nephew has left. Maybe tonight.

I think I'll throw the 3800X2 in and make the 2.75 official as well as the cpuz was outdated and I couldn't get a verification on that one. Just the screenie. But I can't afford to lose that one so no insane voltages.









Ohh BTW the 3200+ had a missing pin.


----------



## SpykeZ

So I go to sign up to post my first OC ever and my username is taken, apparently I signed up in 2006 and haven't logged in since.

Anywho, this is the first OC I've ever done and got a pretty good chunk of performance out of it









I've hit a complete wall, anything after 255MHz goes unstable for me in Prime95, tried the vcore up to 1.485, memory speed as low as I could go, HTT x 2, chipset voltage at 1.6, memory voltage @ 2.8, just can't get it any higher than 255 without it failing Prime95, though seeing the list of OC's on air, I'd say I got pretty good results









255MHz
1.35Vcore
HTTx3
DDR-200mhz
Multi x 11

Depending on my room temp I idle at 29C-35C and Full load on aout 55-58C (in games)


----------



## N2Gaming

Welcome to the club SpykeZ


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Welcome to the club SpykeZ

lol maybe not, I've been running 2.8 stable for weeks now and tried hitting 2.9 and wouldn't work, went back to my other settings and now core 1 fails after 5 minutes in prime 95.

I fail hard lmao

[edit] nvm, it's back to being stable, forgot to set one of the settings back


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kwint* 
Bah, hit a wall at 2.5 ghz today. Started super pi and it BSOD'd.

Kwint, for it being a Manchester core I think you've done quite well. The average overclock that I always saw with this core was in the 2.6Ghz range and that was with above normal Vcore. I'd be very surprised if you hit 2.7-2.8Ghz stable. You still did a good job









Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 
Anywho, this is the first OC I've ever done and got a pretty good chunk of performance out of it









I've hit a complete wall, anything after 255MHz goes unstable for me in Prime95, tried the vcore up to 1.485, memory speed as low as I could go, HTT x 2, chipset voltage at 1.6, memory voltage @ 2.8, just can't get it any higher than 255 without it failing Prime95, though seeing the list of OC's on air, I'd say I got pretty good results

SpykeZ, excellent job with the 2.8Ghz OC! +1

I added you to the roster with the above cpu-z screen shot. You mentioned you weren't able to squeeze passed 255Mhz? The A8N-SLI Prem is a pretty good board...it should let you do at least 260. I had the regular A8N-SLI and I was able to get up to 280Mhz stable. Perhaps there is a FSB hole after 255Mhz. Did you give 270 a try?

Good luck


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Kwint, for it being a Manchester core I think you've done quite well. The average overclock that I always saw with this core was in the 2.6Ghz range and that was with above normal Vcore. I'd be very surprised if you hit 2.7-2.8Ghz stable. You still did a good job









SpykeZ, excellent job with the 2.8Ghz OC! +1

I added you to the roster with the above cpu-z screen shot. You mentioned you weren't able to squeeze passed 255Mhz? The A8N-SLI Prem is a pretty good board...it should let you do at least 260. I had the regular A8N-SLI and I was able to get up to 280Mhz stable. Perhaps there is a FSB hole after 255Mhz. Did you give 270 a try?

Good luck

ya 270 was what I was using to try and push it to but wasn't going to push that any further till I got it stable and wouldn't let me. Vcore, lower HTT, lower ram speed, more voltage, higher chipset voltage, dram voltage etc.

I had the Vcore up to like 1.485 and was getting passed 75C in Prime95 and core 1 failed after 5 minutes so I backed it down to 2.8GHz

btw, what are good temps for this thing to operate at? Google showed me nothing.

[edit] lol I think I hurt something when I tried pushing it to 2.9 an hour ago. Worker 1 keeps failing in Prime95, I did find some other settings I forgot to put back to what I had them so hopefully that sorts it out


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 
ya 270 was what I was using to try and push it to but wasn't going to push that any further till I got it stable and wouldn't let me. Vcore, lower HTT, lower ram speed, more voltage, higher chipset voltage, dram voltage etc.

I had the Vcore up to like 1.485 and was getting passed 75C in Prime95 and core 1 failed after 5 minutes so I backed it down to 2.8GHz

btw, what are good temps for this thing to operate at? Google showed me nothing.

SpykeZ, ahh ok I was under the impression you were having troubles finding the limits of your chipset. That would make sense though if you're having troubles passing 2.8Ghz...already that is getting close to the limits of S939.

In regards to your temperature question I'd suggest keeping full load temps below 65C. My Opteron 170 would normally lock up at 64-65C. Some of these processors can handle a bit more I believe.

Hope that helps


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 
ya 270 was what I was using to try and push it to but wasn't going to push that any further till I got it stable and wouldn't let me. Vcore, lower HTT, lower ram speed, more voltage, higher chipset voltage, dram voltage etc.

I had the Vcore up to like 1.485 and was getting passed 75C in Prime95 and core 1 failed after 5 minutes so I backed it down to 2.8GHz

*btw, what are good temps for this thing to operate at? Google showed me nothing.*

The lower, the better.









That's not meant to sound like a glib remark, but that's about the most concise way to put things that I know how to do.







75degs C is right about as high as I would dare to subject a chip and expect it to perform with some measure of stability.

Do you know what your ambient temperature is, Spykez?


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
The lower, the better.









That's not meant to sound like a glib remark, but that's about the most concise way to put things that I know how to do.







75degs C is right about as high as I would dare to subject a chip and expect it to perform with some measure of stability.

Do you know what your ambient temperature is, Spykez?

nah I dont :\\

My core 1 is failing again with all the settings I had it on for 2 weeks after I tried pushing 2.9 :'( lol I should have just left it.

any ideas? lol


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 
nah I dont :\\

My core 1 is failing again with all the settings I had it on for 2 weeks after I tried pushing 2.9 :'( lol I should have just left it.

SpykeZ, try lowering it a few mhz and re-test. What kind of stability tests are you performing?


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


SpykeZ, try lowering it a few mhz and re-test. What kind of stability tests are you performing?


or the CPU I've used Prime95, it's ran 5+ hours no failinures for 2 weeks till an hour ago that I tried pushing 2.9 lol

memory I use memtest

[edit] knock on wood I think I got it, lowered it from 255 to 250 and seems to be better.


----------



## Blitz6804

As Thlnk3r said, generally you want to keep the AMD Athlon64 x2 4400+ under 65Âº C. However, if your chip's product number is ADV4400CDBOX or ADV4400DAA6CD, the limit is 71Âº C.


----------



## SpykeZ

and where do I find those numbers lol

nvm, looked up my newegg history it's ADA4400DAA6CD


----------



## Blitz6804

ADA is the 110 W version, and as such, it has the 65Âº C mentioned thermal cap. I always liked to keep my CPU under 60Âº C in the winter so when the summer rolled around I would not have any serious issues. If you want to overclock more, you might need to look into a better cooler than the CNPS7700, even the CNPS9500 would be an improvement, albeit a small one.


----------



## godofdeath

hey SpykeZ
we almost got the same parts lol
how does win7 64bit run on the 4400? smooth and all?


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *godofdeath* 
hey SpykeZ
we almost got the same parts lol
how does win7 64bit run on the 4400? smooth and all?

Put some butter in the microwave for abou 40 seconds, get it nice and soft, then spread it across your buttcheeks.

Runs abou as smooth as that









No hiccups, no lags, this 4400 runs better on win 7 x64 than xp pro x86


----------



## murderbymodem

I'm so excited...my friend who I sold my old rig to (Opteron 148 Venus rig) wants to upgrade his motherboard, CPU, and ram after Christmas. I told him I'd give him some money towards the new stuff if I can have the old stuff back, and he agreed.

I may have to get a new motherboard for the Opteron, as the ASrock 939Dual-SATA2 was always a bit finicky, especially with Vista, but I'm just so excited to have that Opteron back.


----------



## arronw10

hi there could any 1 help me oc my amd athlon2 x4 620 cpu i cnt do it in bios tho


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arronw10* 
hi there could any 1 help me oc my amd athlon2 x4 620 cpu i cnt do it in bios tho

Can't do it in the bio meaning the options aren't there? If that's the case I wouldn't bother trying, software OC'ing isn't usually stable. BTW, this thread is for the 939 socket










Quote:


Originally Posted by *Redmist* 
I'm so excited...my friend who I sold my old rig to (Opteron 148 Venus rig) wants to upgrade his motherboard, CPU, and ram after Christmas. I told him I'd give him some money towards the new stuff if I can have the old stuff back, and he agreed.

I may have to get a new motherboard for the Opteron, as the ASrock 939Dual-SATA2 was always a bit finicky, especially with Vista, but I'm just so excited to have that Opteron back.









http://forums.ocworkbench.com/showthread.php?t=90039


----------



## arronw10

ok thanx do u think a should just buy a new cpu because it anly running at 2.60ghz and it not that good for games


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arronw10* 
hi there could any 1 help me oc my amd athlon2 x4 620 cpu i cnt do it in bios tho

Check out the AMD Socket AM3 Knowledge Base, this is a club for Socket 939, which is K8 based chips, and your CPU is a K10.5 based, so the overclocking is a bit different.


----------



## arronw10

ok could u give me some oc software links what a could try thanx


----------



## arronw10

ok thanx could u send me sum software i could try t do it thanx and u take it up 5 a time?


----------



## murderbymodem

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*


http://forums.ocworkbench.com/showthread.php?t=90039










Exactly what I was thinking, it will depend on the price though.









Edit:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *zila1*

Here's the response I got from AsRock:
From: [email protected]

This model only available for special project not a regular model and we don't carry this model in US Region. Thanks

All the excitement was for nothing on my part. I am very disappointed.


Boo


----------



## Blitz6804

Forgive my arrogance arronw10, but I believe you will get a far better gain by getting a dedicated graphics card rather than running the HD 3200 than you would by even overclocking your CPU. An x4 620 should have no problems with almost any game you can throw at it, whereas that that HD 3200 (the GPU within your 780G chipset) would be begging for mercy with more than the most rudimentary modern game.


----------



## kwint

I didn't know that the manchester's stopped at 2.6ghz. Hmph...Its still at default voltage ni the bios, but i did a stress test last night and core temp shut down the computer because of heat. (had it set to shut off at 60)

I need a better heatsink in order to go farther. Probably should sell my laptop after I fix it, even tho its all beat up.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Redmist*


I'm so excited...my friend who I sold my old rig to (Opteron 148 Venus rig) wants to upgrade his motherboard, CPU, and ram after Christmas. I told him I'd give him some money towards the new stuff if I can have the old stuff back, and he agreed.


Redmist, sounds awesome buddy. As soon as you get that puppy back let us know. Do you have an idea which S939 board you would like?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arronw10*


hi there could any 1 help me oc my amd athlon2 x4 620 cpu i cnt do it in bios tho


Arronw10, judging by the system specifications in your signature it looks like you have a branded machine (Acer)? If that is true then I'm afraid there won't be any way for you to do that. Most if not all branded machines have a propitiatory bios that do not include any overclocking options at all. As others have said you could try "software" overclocking OR you could purchase a new board (Gigabyte, Asus, Biostar ect).

Good luck


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kwint* 
I didn't know that the manchester's stopped at 2.6ghz.

Kwint, it's not exactly the hard limit for this core it's just the "average" overclock that most are able to achieve. I have rarely seen any over 2.7Ghz and if there are it's usually with a lot of voltage...


----------



## N2Gaming

Arronw10: PM me for deatails on a decent ASUS overclocing mobo w/Wifi and LPT1, 2x PCIe x16 slots for true 16x16 sli and AM3 CPU compatabliity. I may be able to hook you up if all is in your favor. Not trying to advertise just mentioning he can PM me for details.


----------



## murderbymodem

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Redmist, sounds awesome buddy. As soon as you get that puppy back let us know. Do you have an idea which S939 board you would like?

Not exactly sure, as I haven't decided what purpse it will serve yet. I have my main rig for gaming, an old Sony Vaio I have running as a FreeNAS server, and everyone else in my household already has their own computers (my sister has a laptop, and my mom has her own desktop and a laptop).

I'm not sure if I'll be using the Opteron as a second machine for myself (maybe a Linux rig, since the majority of the time on my sig rig is spent in Windows 7 for games), or if I'll switch the Opteron to being the FreeNAS machine since it has SATA support while the Vaio I'm currently using as a server does not. That would be appropriate since Opterons are intended to be servers


----------



## N2Gaming

hey all. here is a guy selling some nice 939 gear that may be worth looking at. DFI Expert mobo and X2 cpu's and 2x1gb Mushkin PC400 ram


----------



## eternalenergy311

So I found out my nb fan had quit working. Then i found out that it had been running the wrong direction all along.







Yeh, it made a diffrence but still no 3.0 ghz. 2.9 is one step closer to my goal though. Here's my new validation link.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=882311


----------



## kwint

Quote:



Kwint, it's not exactly the hard limit for this core it's just the "average" overclock that most are able to achieve. I have rarely seen any over 2.7Ghz and if there are it's usually with a lot of voltage...


Well thats a little discouraging, haha. Thing is, I've been able to boot into windows at around 2.8ghz IIRC on stock voltage. I didn't do any tests because my temps were in the mid 50s just loading up windows.

Does anyone else share the frustration of having to buy parts for our systems when we could spend the same money on a brand new am3 build that would wax any 939 system?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Redmist*


I'm not sure if I'll be using the Opteron as a second machine for myself (maybe a Linux rig, since the majority of the time on my sig rig is spent in Windows 7 for games)


Redmist, turn it into a domain controller and put your whole family on it. Then you can force group policies onto them and be in control









Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


So I found out my nb fan had quit working. Then i found out that it had been running the wrong direction all along.







Yeh, it made a diffrence but still no 3.0 ghz. 2.9 is one step closer to my goal though. Here's my new validation link.


Eternalenergy311, congrats on the overclock. I'm assuming you're stable at that speed? Would you like me to update the roster with your new entry?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kwint*


Does anyone else share the frustration of having to buy parts for our systems when we could spend the same money on a brand new am3 build that would wax any 939 system?


Kwint, can't say I do because I haven't purchased any S939 stuff in a while but I exactly know what you mean. Socket 939 gear is pretty darn expensive! I think it's because of the rarity of the items and how well they still perform.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

I agree kwint. This is why I opted to go AM2+ instead of an Opteron 170 when I killed my Toledo.


----------



## BlackOmega

Yeah 939 stuff is getting up there in price. There aren't as many DFI boards on there as there used to be. Hell there aren't as many 939 boards period. Could it be that all of their stock is gone?


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Yeah 939 stuff is getting up there in price.


oh....how right you are sir.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231047

bought these to put my system up to 4GB


----------



## BlackOmega

Actually that's not a bad price for that kit. When that kit came out it was probably $150 or more. I remember buying my 2 x512 Kingston HyperX's for ~$100 new. Hell my opty 165 cost almost as much as I paid for my current mobo, cpu and RAM.


----------



## SpykeZ

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820146970

$245.57 when I bought those :'( man *** was I thinking lmao, was bac kin 2006


----------



## BlackOmega

That's what the prices were like back then. I sure am glad that as tech advances it gets cheaper.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Actually that's not a bad price for that kit. When that kit came out it was probably $150 or more. I remember buying my 2 x512 Kingston HyperX's for ~$100 new. Hell my opty 165 cost almost as much as I paid for my current mobo, cpu and RAM.

BlackOmega, that is the same kit I have and I paid a little over $100 a year ago haha


----------



## BlackOmega

Dang, that's pricey. That set of Corsairs I bought (Infineon BH-5 IC's IIRC), were $65 after MIR. Glad I jumped on it too, they were sold out VERY quickly. Matter of a day.


----------



## SpykeZ

on a side note, is it worth using cool n quiet? I've read it messed up some peoples stability with OC'ing, and when they disabled it the OC worked fine.

Is there any non benefit to it?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 
on a side note, is it worth using cool n quiet? I've read it messed up some peoples stability with OC'ing, and when they disabled it the OC worked fine.

Is there any non benefit to it?

Yeah cool n quiet can cause stability issues because it's constantly changing the the clocks. The benefit of it is lower power consumption. I've found though, as long as you shut your rig down when not in use, power consumption shouldn't be an issue.


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Yeah cool n quiet can cause stability issues because it's constantly changing the the clocks. The benefit of it is lower power consumption. I've found though, as long as you shut your rig down when not in use, power consumption shouldn't be an issue.

of which I normally do now ever since I came home one day and my computer had shut off during a power outage and since that day I couldn't get it to boot right with that HD so out it came.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kwint* 
I didn't know that the manchester's stopped at 2.6ghz. Hmph...Its still at default voltage ni the bios, but i did a stress test last night and core temp shut down the computer because of heat. (had it set to shut off at 60)

I need a better heatsink in order to go farther. Probably should sell my laptop after I fix it, even tho its all beat up.

kwint, it's not necessarily true that Manchesters *cannot* exceed 2.6GHz. What is true, based on user findings statistics, is that 2.6GHz-2.7GHz is l*ikely to be the max* you can extract from a Manchester.







This may seem like a mere semantic distinction, but it's a necessary distinction to emphasize, in my opinion.

At any rate, in your case, it looks like your analysis is correct. That is definitely a case of thermal throttling (the system shutting itself off because it's hitting the thermal "rev limiter," so to speak). You're likely to expand your thermal headroom, too, by installing a better heatsink.









Good luck.









EDIT: Oopsies. Didn't realize thlnk3r actually said most of what I've said here. Sorry, guys.


----------



## BlackOmega

Yeah I always power down my sig rig. And speaking of which I had an episode similar to yours with my 939 folding rig. Left for class came back not 2 hours later and it was off. Went to power it up and it didn't want to POST.







well I swapped a bunch of stuff around and it seems to be just fine. Has been on for about a week with no issues.


----------



## Blitz6804

I personally always used Cool 'n' Quiet SpykeZ. However, if you possess a motherboard that does not permit you to change your multiplier and/or voltage while it is enabled, you would likely wish to turn it off and configure the Crystal-n-Quiet feature of CrystalCPUID to get your power savings. My Gigabyte GA-K8NSC-939 was one. My Abit AT8-32x permitted me to change the voltage, but not the multiplier. (For the record, my DFI LP DK 790FX-M2RS did not permit a change to voltage or multiplier while C'n'Q was enabled until the very latest BIOS update last month.)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

No CnQ for me. I just turn my rig off when I'm not using it.


----------



## Blitz6804

In my case, I often use the rig, but only a fraction of its needs. For example, I am only using about 2% load, why do I need a 3.5 GHz CPU when a 0.9 GHz CPU can do the job just as well?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


In my case, I often use the rig, but only a fraction of its needs. For example, I am only using about 2% load, why do I need a 3.5 GHz CPU when a 0.9 GHz CPU can do the job just as well?


I've said it before, I'll say it again: Methinks Blitzer here needs to go outside far more.


















Just kidding.

But not really.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


In my case, I often use the rig, but only a fraction of its needs. For example, I am only using about 2% load, why do I need a 3.5 GHz CPU when a 0.9 GHz CPU can do the job just as well?


CPU Load is not relative to CPU Speed.

You can think of CPU Load like passengers in a Taxi:

If you Load is 25%, you have 1 passenger in your car. If your load is 50%, you have 2 passengers in the car.

Now speed is relative to where the passengers (IE: Data) is going. 
If you are going at 60 MPH, it does not matter how many passengers you have in the car, you are still going at 60 MPH.

IE: Speed is not Relative to load as they are seperate factors.

You will speed up to get Passengers or Data to their point faster, but no matter what, the amount of Data coming in will always be a constant.

So no matter how fast you go, 4 passengers will be 100% load.


----------



## Blitz6804

I ask then Tator Tot, why when C'n'Q kicks in (dropping me from 3510 to 960) does load increase from 2% to about 8%?


----------



## kwint

So would 4 cores be like having 4 taxis?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I ask then Tator Tot, why when C'n'Q kicks in (dropping me from 3510 to 960) does load increase from 2% to about 8%?


Data congestion.

You are not processing the data out fast enough, but you still have more data that is in line to be processed, so as long as you do not top out at 100% load, you will use your resources to pick up more data.

It's just like a Taxi picking up more people along his route to take one person somewhere.

Obviously the in this case (unlike a taxi) you know before hand where the data (or passengers) would be going.

A better way to think of it in this case, would be like a Bus, as CPU's are SIMD. Single Instruction (Drive) Multiple Data (many passengers)

EDIT: Also, load could be varrying on just what is needed at the times. CPU Usage spikes are not uncommon for programs to have, even basic ones like Word, FireFox, WMP, ect.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kwint*


So would 4 cores be like having 4 taxis?


It depends on the application.

Obviously if the application can call 4 cores for operations (IE: like a friend calling 4 taxi's for his 4 friends) then yes, it would be.

But say you can only call 2 taxi's, or only need to call 2 taxi's because of where the passengers of the Taxi's need to go, then you will only use 2 Taxi's (IE cores) to get the passengers to their destination (IE: Data processed)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


EDIT: Oopsies. Didn't realize thlnk3r actually said most of what I've said here. Sorry, guys.


Joe, no worries. Two opinions are always better then one


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Joe, no worries. Two opinions are always better then one










Don't you mean Joepinions?


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Eternalenergy311, congrats on the overclock. I'm assuming you're stable at that speed? Would you like me to update the roster with your new entry?

Good luck


No I won't call it stable yet, memtest yes,but only ran prime95 for like an hour and then quit because I needed the machine. Also that was only with 2 gigs of ram installed, and I usually run 4x 1024. Temps were better though, imagine that right


----------



## Darkpowder

Great idea for a group, i will be concentrating on OC'ing before too long on this linked rig.

http://www.overclock.net/system.php?i=31207
I'll post my CPU-Z specs once the old "FX55" has a new PSU


----------



## murderbymodem

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Redmist, turn it into a domain controller and put your whole family on it. Then you can force group policies onto them and be in control









Seeing as I'm going to school for network administration, that is something I should start playing around with...

but my Mom and Sister hate when I mess with their computers. Maybe I'll try doing that over my Dad's house, we have a couple old machines over there that I haven't gotten around to doing anything with. Only with that is he has every computer set up with at least a dual boot, if not a triple boot. Windows XP, Vista, and 7. I would have to set up every OS on every computer









I'll definitely have to look into it. Now to figure out if I want to get a copy of Server 2003 or Server 2008 for free from Microsoft, or use some form of Linux. I usually try to use open source software wherever I can, but since school will most likely be focusing mainly on Windows Server, I should probably play around with that...

I have to say, it would be very nice to set up user profiles so that firefox favorites, wallpapers, etc for each user would be saved and displayed on any computer they log on to. Over my Dad's house people are always freaking out trying to find they're files because of the whole dual / triple boot thing, since they always save their stuff to the desktop.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Redmist*


Over my Dad's house people are always freaking out trying to find they're files because of the whole dual / triple boot thing, since they always save their stuff to the desktop.










Redmist, sounds like some of our users at work


----------



## kwint

Made an interesting observation today. My temps are higher at stock speeds than they are at oc'd speeds. Well under load anyway.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kwint*


Made an interesting observation today. My temps are higher at stock speeds than they are at oc'd speeds. Well under load anyway.


Kwint, wow that is very interesting. I don't think I've ever seen that before









Do you have any screen shots comparing the two?


----------



## mattliston

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kwint* 
Made an interesting observation today. My temps are higher at stock speeds than they are at oc'd speeds. Well under load anyway.

with some proof, the only explanation I could come up with is that at OC'd speeds, your computer has enough power to do things much faster or more easily, and therefore translating into less heat

very strange









is it possible OC'ing changes the temp probe's signal?


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Data congestion.

You are not processing the data out fast enough, but you still have more data that is in line to be processed, so as long as you do not top out at 100% load, you will use your resources to pick up more data.

It's just like a Taxi picking up more people along his route to take one person somewhere.

Obviously the in this case (unlike a taxi) you know before hand where the data (or passengers) would be going.

A better way to think of it in this case, would be like a Bus, as CPU's are SIMD. Single Instruction (Drive) Multiple Data (many passengers)

EDIT: Also, load could be varrying on just what is needed at the times. CPU Usage spikes are not uncommon for programs to have, even basic ones like Word, FireFox, WMP, ect.

It depends on the application.

Obviously if the application can call 4 cores for operations (IE: like a friend calling 4 taxi's for his 4 friends) then yes, it would be.

But say you can only call 2 taxi's, or only need to call 2 taxi's because of where the passengers of the Taxi's need to go, then you will only use 2 Taxi's (IE cores) to get the passengers to their destination (IE: Data processed)

When I explain this to someone, I always use grocery store checkout lanes as an example.

Single Core - You have 1 checkout lane with the clerk scanning the items at 2.4 ghz (she's a fast clerk...wonder what that would translate into MPH), the more customers she gets in her line the fuller the "load" (no dirty thoughts). Then you pop in a dual core check out lane. Now you have 2 clerks processing customers splitting up the load.....

etc etc etc


----------



## Blitz6804

One is a speed, the other is a frequency. 2.4 GHz would be 2,400,000,000 / second, or 8,640,000,000,000 / hour. To get a speed, we multiply frequency by distance traveled in that frequency. If we assume that the average clerk must move the item about 2 feet, we can say she is operating at 17,280,000,000,000 ft / hour, or 3,272,727,272.7 MPH as requested.


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
One is a speed, the other is a frequency. 2.4 GHz would be 2,400,000,000 / second, or 8,640,000,000,000 / hour. To get a speed, we multiply frequency by distance traveled in that frequency. If we assume that the average clerk must move the item about 2 feet, we can say she is operating at 17,280,000,000,000 ft / hour, or 3,272,727,272.7 MPH as requested.


/me *awe*


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
One is a speed, the other is a frequency. 2.4 GHz would be 2,400,000,000 / second, or 8,640,000,000,000 / hour. To get a speed, we multiply frequency by distance traveled in that frequency. If we assume that the average clerk must move the item about 2 feet, we can say she is operating at 17,280,000,000,000 ft / hour, or 3,272,727,272.7 MPH as requested.

^ Whaaaa







Now I"M confused....









Edit: I like simple equations I can follow like 1 is good 2 is better and 2 can do twice as much as 1 so the work load will be done quicker with 2 working on the load.


----------



## Blitz6804

If a clerk were to move items around two feet at 2.4 GHz, her hands would be moving the items at 3.2 billion miles per hour. That is, about 4.88_c_. Yes, she would be moving at almost five times faster than the speed of light.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
If a clerk were to move items around two feet at 2.4 GHz, her hands would be moving the items at 3.2 billion miles per hour. That is, about 4.88_c_. Yes, she would be moving at almost five times faster than the speed of light.

I think the response from SpykeZ is more than sufficient Blitz LOL


----------



## kwint

Wait, I think might have been imagining things. I didn't sleep for 24+ hours yesterday when I made that "observation' but I'll double check.

Quote:



One is a speed, the other is a frequency. 2.4 GHz would be 2,400,000,000 / second, or 8,640,000,000,000 / hour. To get a speed, we multiply frequency by distance traveled in that frequency. If we assume that the average clerk must move the item about 2 feet, we can say she is operating at 17,280,000,000,000 ft / hour, or 3,272,727,272.7 MPH as requested.


Always a humbling experience on OCN. lol


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
I think the response from SpykeZ is more than sufficient Blitz LOL









Never one to KISS things, our Blitzy.









@ kwint: I wonder if sleep deprivation played a role in your observations.







Short of dramatically lowering the ambient temperature during your OC run, I cannot fathom any reason (other than badly calibrated sensors or a badly-operating monitor/monitoring software) how your temperatures are lower whilst OCed than while stock. Unless, of course, your system was horrendously overvolted whilst running at stock speed, with really bad cooling...


----------



## kwint

Probably did. I'll put it back to stock later and run S&M.

I was up for so long because I got a newer video card. Nothing all to special but its a pretty big leap from a 6600 gt. Idk why it was downed so much. I was playing FEAR 2 with all settings on high with 2xAF and 4xAA @ 1024x768.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 
/me *awe*

Lol.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
^ Whaaaa







Now I"M confused....









Edit: I like simple equations I can follow like 1 is good 2 is better and *2 can do twice as much as 1* so the work load will be done quicker with 2 working on the load.









Theoretically that is correct, although in reality it's been proven over and over again that it is not.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
If a clerk were to move items around two feet at 2.4 GHz, her hands would be moving the items at 3.2 billion miles per hour. That is, about 4.88_*c*_. Yes, she would be moving at almost five times faster than the speed of light.

Out of curiosity what is this unit of measurement?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Never one to KISS things, our Blitzy.










Sometimes the best answers are the ones too easy to think that they'll work.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kwint* 
I was up for so long because I got a newer video card. Nothing all to special but its a pretty big leap from a 6600 gt. Idk why it was downed so much. I was playing FEAR 2 with all settings on high with 2xAF and 4xAA @ 1024x768.

What did you get? (Your sig still says 6600GT).


----------



## Blitz6804

_c_ is the universal unit for speed of light. Pick whatever units for it you want, I usually use 3.0 x 10^8 m/s.

Joe: What is simple? Is not "simple" very subjective?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
_c_ is the universal unit for speed of light. Pick whatever units for it you want, I usually use 3.0 x 10^8 m/s.

Joe: What is simple? Is not "simple" very subjective?

Thanks for that. Does _c_ stand for anything? (I know I can just look it up, I'm just being lazy







).

And simple is most definitely subjective.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Joe: What is simple? Is not "simple" very subjective?

Simple is as simple does, my friend. Can't make it simpler than that.









Sometimes piling in more detail serves to merely obfuscate, instead of illuminate. Less is often more, if you know how to state what the essence of the matter is.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Simple is as simple does, my friend. Can't make it simpler than that.










For some odd reason I actually really like that movie.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Sometimes piling in more detail serves to merely obfuscate, instead of illuminate. Less is often more, if you know how to state what the essence of the matter is.









But this tends to make people gravitate towards this kind of over-simplification too often. It degrades the language and even the quality of thought processes in people. In essence I think it makes people less intelligent.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


But this tends to make people gravitate towards this kind of over-simplification too often. It degrades the language and even the quality of thought processes in people. In essence I think it makes people less intelligent.


Perhaps you misunderstand me.

Sometimes the most direct way of stating something is the most effective. Compare this admittedly non-S939 example:

You say to someone, "Yo, I need to borrow your device which folds up which has a surface on which you touch these multiple objects, which then activates the mechanism by which characters appear on the screen, which then activates the communications device by which I can talk with your girlfriend to offer her a specific interrogative."

Or you can say, "Hey, buddy, I need to borrow your cell phone, if I may. I want to ask your girlfriend a question."

Now you tell me which example degrades the language and the quality of the thought process?

All I'm saying is sometimes adding details gets confusing, especially to someone who is not as well-versed with the terminology. Plus sometimes details, while plentiful, are not as relevant to the question being asked.

Don't get me wrong; I'm as guilty of this as anyone can be (probably more so). But I do think that sometimes the elegant, simple, straightforward response (I'm not saying don't add detail; just be sure the details you are adding are actually relevant) is more effective in communication.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hi guys. I just finished a Win7 Ultimate X64 install and am still having issues. LOL Boy let me tell you if it ain't one thing it's another. I installed it on my sig rig and the text displayed on my TV is to small to read from where I sit " about 8-10 feet away from the TV" I have already selected largest text size from w/in the internet browser window but I'm thinking I need to strech the screen to a 16.9 and a smaller resolution than 1920x1080. If I select 1280x1024 I get a block in the middle of my screen w/two large portions of my screen black on both the left and right sides of the screen and I don't know enough about Win7 to stretch the screen.

Does any one know how to change this?

Edit: so far I am using the maginfying glass w/OCN page set to fixed view. This is the only way I can read the screen and still see what I'm typing on this web page. I have not tried other searches yet on google to see if it works the same there. It's just one of the many things that irritates me about Win7.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Perhaps you misunderstand me.

Sometimes the most direct way of stating something is the most effective. Compare this admittedly non-S939 example:

You say to someone, "Yo, I need to borrow your device which folds up which has a surface on which you touch these multiple objects, which then activates the mechanism by which characters appear on the screen, which then activates the communications device by which I can talk with your girlfriend to offer her a specific interrogative."

Or you can say, "Hey, buddy, I need to borrow your cell phone, if I may. I want to ask your girlfriend a question."

Now you tell me which example degrades the language and the quality of the thought process?


 LOL.

Actually, if you look at the first one, while obviously being a somewhat extreme example, does in fact promote more thought process. As the person would be like what the hell are you talking about and _try_ to make sense of it.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


All I'm saying is sometimes adding details gets confusing, especially to someone who is not as well-versed with the terminology. Plus sometimes details, while plentiful, are not as relevant to the question being asked.


 Well that is completely obvious in your example as no one in their right mind would say anything like that. It's simply too inefficient. 
What I was referring to more was the mnemonics or abbreviations that people have incorporated more and more, especially in written aspect. Half of the time when you ask them what it stands for, they don't know. 
And I think it degrades the language, which in turn degrades the creative thought process and turns people in to imbeciles.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Don't get me wrong; I'm as guilty of this as anyone can be (probably more so). But I do think that sometimes the *elegant, simple, straightforward *response (I'm not saying don't add detail; just be sure the details you are adding are actually relevant) is more effective in communication.










 I think that one word here does not fit.


----------



## SpykeZ

jeez, what did I start... lol


----------



## Blitz6804

Remember, Einstein is quoted as saying "Make everything as simple as possible, but not simpler." In any event, I digress.

N2Gaming: Right-click your desktop and hit Screen Resolution. Near the bottom, you should see "Make text and other items larger or smaller." Click that, and adjust the DPI to 125%. Then hit Apply, log out, and log back in. (You no longer need to restart the PC for DPI to take effect.) If that is not large enough, try 150%. If you want to lower your resolution from 1080p, keep at a 16:9 ratio with 720p (1280x720). As to the lack of scaling you are experiencing (that is, the PC will not show a 5:4 resolution as a 16:9) will need to be changed in your graphics card's panel. I do not know where it would be found for an nVidia.


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks blitz I'll try that. I still have yet to install all the drivers.


----------



## Blitz6804

That in itself might cause troubles. Most resolutions are missing with the plug-and-play drivers I have tried with any flavor of Windows.


----------



## Hueristic

How long is a piece of string?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
LOL.

Actually, if you look at the first one, while obviously being a somewhat extreme example, does in fact promote more thought process. As the person would be like what the hell are you talking about and _try_ to make sense of it.









More thought process, perhaps. But ask yourself this: Do you WANT to go through that kind of thought process, all the time? Or even most of the time? Maybe just some of the time?

Speaking for myself, I'd say I'd keep such effort to a minimum. Not because I'm lazy, but because you hit on it in the next part of your reply.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Well that is completely obvious in your example as no one in their right mind would say anything like that. *It's simply too inefficient*.

My point exactly.







It's inefficient in terms of effort needed to decipher the message, in terms of time, and in terms of increasing the risk of miscommunication through a failure in translation/interpretation.

Granted, the example I created to prove my point is extreme, but it got my point across. You totally got what I was trying to illustrate.









Efficiency will always trump a ponderous, overly-wrought and over-complicated solution, in my opinion. For me, this will always be true in engineering and design, as well as in language and communications.
















Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
What I was referring to more was the mnemonics or abbreviations that people have incorporated more and more, especially in written aspect. Half of the time when you ask them what it stands for, they don't know.
And I think it degrades the language, which in turn degrades the creative thought process and turns people in to imbeciles.

If you're referring to so-called "[email protected]" (or however it's supposed to spelled), or any other kind of internet-based "evolution" (a term I use very loosely here), then I heartily agree with you.

You have my permission to V-smack (virtually-smack) or e-smack (electronically-smack) me if I'm ever guilty of using this here on OCN.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I think that one word here does not fit.









Really?

Do tell.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Hi guys. I just finished a Win7 Ultimate X64 install and am still having issues. LOL Boy let me tell you if it ain't one thing it's another. I installed it on my sig rig and the text displayed on my TV is to small to read from where I sit " about 8-10 feet away from the TV" I have already selected largest text size from w/in the internet browser window but I'm thinking I need to strech the screen to a 16.9 and a smaller resolution than 1920x1080. If I select 1280x1024 I get a block in the middle of my screen w/two large portions of my screen black on both the left and right sides of the screen and I don't know enough about Win7 to stretch the screen.

Does any one know how to change this?

Edit: so far I am using the maginfying glass w/OCN page set to fixed view. This is the only way I can read the screen and still see what I'm typing on this web page. I have not tried other searches yet on google to see if it works the same there. It's just one of the many things that irritates me about Win7.

Other than sitting closer to the TV, I don't really know, to be perfectly honest. I think this is a case of the resolution not being optimized to render text on a screen that is 40", rather than (obviously) video signals (movies, games, etc.).







(My apologies for not being able to offer more in terms of a solution.)

Can you reproduce this phenomenon on another monitor which displays @ 1920 x1080? I don't think this is a "fault" per se of Windows 7; it's more to do with the fact that you're using a TV to display text.

(Did you see this behavior on other OS installations? I would deduce probably not.)

Hopefully else someone can offer a more helpful solution.


----------



## N2Gaming

A piece of string? Are you speaking of the string theory?

So I got the DPI set to 165 and I can live w/it but I still have some nice realestate of blue on each side of the light blue OCN screens. maybe I'll try 175 and then set my window to wide view.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Efficiency will *always* trump a ponderous, overly-wrought and over-complicated solution, in my opinion. For me, this will always be true in engineering and design, as well as in language and communications. _(emphasis added)_

I disagree. When writing a paper for a class with a minimum page count (like I am right now), pomp, bloated, and superfluous language is always best, well, at least, if you do not have enough actual content to pad the page count.

To Joe's post, _infra_: I used to know a quote about reading something and not understanding means it must have been written by a lawyer, but of course I cannot remember it now. In law schools they now actually teach you NOT to use "legalese," and I was always getting in trouble with my research and writing professor for that. Forget the fact I wrote for her class how I wrote for all classes ever.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
A piece of string? Are you speaking of the string theory?

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/science/nature/8363934.stm


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I disagree. When writing a paper for a class with a minimum page count (like I am right now), pomp, bloated, and superfluous language is always best, well, at least, if you do not have enough actual content to pad the page count.

Well, then, at least you understand why clear, efficient writing is not enough for you and the specific case you're alluding to.







If there were no shortage of actual content, then there would be no need to use unnecessarily complex language to meet a minimum page count.

I understand that I'm stepping on your toes specifically a bit here, but "Legal-speak" is one of the worst offenders as far as the devolution of language (I'm supposing that what's true in English is also true in other languages that use some form of "Legal-speak"). Why not call a spade a spade? (A rhetorical question, just to be perfectly clear. But do think about it in the context of this admittedly off-topic discussion.







)

Anyway, while this has been an invigorating philosophical discussion, I'm afraid I'm guilty of not setting a good example here.







This isn't an appropriate place on OCN for this discussion. I don't want to be sanctioned by thlnk3r (and rightly so) for promoting an off-topic discussion.

(@ Blitzy: I try to live by the Einstein quote that you provided.







)

(But if y'all want to continue this discussion, there are several ways we can do it, including, perhaps, opening a thread in the Off-Topic section.)









Anyway, @ N2G: Blitzy's advice regarding video drivers sounds like a good way forward. I'd start troubleshooting there.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
How long is a piece of string?

Infinite?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
More thought process, perhaps. But ask yourself this: Do you WANT to go through that kind of thought process, all the time? Or even most of the time? Maybe just some of the time?


I try to use more descriptive words, actually. Trying to be more efficient, but then the problem becomes other peoples' interpretation of the word or what they _think_ it means, and what they usually think it means is usually wrong.







Thus becoming more inefficient, but hopefully I would have educated a coworker so the next time I use said word, they will understand. My sneaky way of educating people.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
My point exactly.







It's inefficient in terms of effort needed to decipher the message, in terms of time, and in terms of increasing the risk of miscommunication through a failure in translation/interpretation.

I found this passage to be quite humorous.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Granted, the example I created to prove my point is extreme, but it got my point across. You totally got what I was trying to illustrate.









Efficiency will always trump a ponderous, overly-wrought and over-complicated solution, in my opinion. For me, this will always be true in engineering and design, as well as in language and communications.
















Very true, you can always tell if the person writing the textbook just likes to hear themselves speak. They'll use words that are even uncommon to very well versed people. Some of my professors have done that as well. I think they're just being pompous and arrogant.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
If you're referring to so-called "[email protected]" (or however it's supposed to spelled), or any other kind of internet-based "evolution" (a term I use very loosely here), then I heartily agree with you.

I think it's because people text so much now. Quite honestly I hate texting, if someone texts me, I call em.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Really?

Do tell.









Tis a matter of opinion, and you know what _they_ say about those.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Infinite?


Maybe,

The show I linked is a great example of attempting to speak in absolutes, as is what this discusion seems to be.

AFAIC T/f is the speed to measure computing power when apples are compared to apples. But very seldom do we compare those.


----------



## N2Gaming

Here is my first performance test using Win 7


----------



## kwint

Quote:



What did you get? (Your sig still says 6600GT).


Whoops, fixed it. I got an xfx 8600gt (256mb ddr3 ver.) for 35 shipped off ebay with the warranty transfered to my name.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Here is my first performance test using Win 7


N2Gaming, you know I wonder how these bench marks measure up to everything else? To me they seem just so obscure...


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


N2Gaming, you know I wonder how these bench marks measure up to everything else? To me they seem just so obscure...


LOL yeah really. I don't understand it either but I think they are ment to rate your system on a 1-10 scale of something like that. Any way I don't have any SSD or Raid set up so I could prolly improve my scores if I ever figured out how to properly install and configure a raid set up w/an extra drive for storage. I don't know a whole lot about installing games on a seperate HDD used for storage but then again that would pretty much defeat the purpose of raid any way no? I was thinking of using my 2x74G Raptors for raid heck maybe I'll just sell or trade up my WD 36G raptors to a larder size Raptor or Velociraptor drives. One thing is for sure. I want to eventually get a raid set up going for faster seek and load times.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I don't know a whole lot about installing games on a seperate HDD used for storage but then again that would pretty much defeat the purpose of raid any way no? I was thinking of using my 2x74G Raptors for raid heck maybe I'll just sell or trade up my WD 36G raptors to a larder size Raptor or Velociraptor drives. One thing is for sure. I want to eventually get a raid set up going for faster seek and load times.









N2Gaming, installing a game on a different drive won't hurt anything. The installer should add the appropriate entries in the registry to reflect the location of the installed files. However it would probably be wise to keep whatever you plan on running on the same raid 0 array (unless of course your data drive is raid 0 too). If you're running BF2 (example) then install it on your raid 0 array. Map loading times will go up quite a bit. If you're only playing 1-3 games then 2x36GB Raptors in raid 0 should be fine.

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks Thlnk3r. I have a new can of worms for Hueristic to lauph at. I just installed Stalker Clear Sky on Win 7 but I can not start the game. Every time I try to start the game it gives me a you must be logged on as administrator to run this game for the first time. I don't understand it. I am logged on as Administrator and it still don't work.


----------



## Blitz6804

Vista is rated 1.0-5.9, Windows 7 is rated 1.0-7.9. Apparently, you cannot get better than 5.9 with a single hard drive. (I tried, I got 5.9 on both Vista and Windows 7.) The index given is not good for much, if anything. It was supposed to provide users with a quick, visual guide to purchasing games/programs to see if they will run on their computer rather than looking at the speeds of each of their components. However, the system is flawwed. Crysis only requires a 3.0 if I remember right. However, on my laptop (5.9/5.9/4.7/5.9/4.9) I can certify that the game is completely unplayable, even at 800x600 lowspec. On the other hand, Spore is 3.0 required (4.0 recommended) and my laptop can run it maxed out without difficulty. The only thing I can think of is that Microsoft put it there for ePeen, because I certainly cannot find any other use for it.

Also, what you are experiencing is User Account Control, a feature that began with Windows Vista. It can be turned off (if you want your computer to be less secure) if you do not like the prompts when running certain items. Xfire needs admin privileges to run for example. When UAC is enabled, every time I boot Xfire, I get a "do you want to enable this program to make changes yadda yadda." When you check your task manager, you will notice that Xfire is not running... until you hit "show processes from all users."

Also, am I the only one to notice there is now a second on OCN about its compliance with the DMCA? Am I the only one who laughs when it says "We voluntarily observe and comply with the United States' Digital Millennium Copyright Act?" Voluntarily? The site is based out of the US, the DMCA is not optional. *Chuckles.* (Granted, I do not know where the physical servers are located, the site is administrated in the United States. And their lawyer is in Florida if you can believe it.)


----------



## eternalenergy311

So obviously I have never tried over clocking anything this "new", but I have a friends machine and was told to work my magic so here it goes. Yes, I have read some guides and will continue but here's my status so far. The chip is a 945 AM3 (non black edition), the board is M4N82, and the memory is PC2-6400. Right now I am at 3515, a 15 x multi, 234 FSB, the HT is at 1875, voltage is only up to 1.39, and the memory is running at 390 so pretty close to that stock 400 mark. Timings are stock, 5-5-5-13-20-2T. I am about an hour into prime 95 testing, temp are 62-64, open case, I don't know what the cooler is but its definetly not stock. Any thoughts? I will post on the appropriate forum but I usually trust you guys first, so let me have it.


----------



## Blitz6804

First off, remove that overclock until you get temperatures under control. If he is running a 125 W C2, he is exceeding the thermal spec of 62Âº C. If he has a 95 W C2 or 95 W C3 he is getting a little warm, but still safe regards the limit of 71Âº C. At all times you want to keep your hypertransport between 1800 and 2000 for an AM3 CPU. The Northbridge is, by default, the same speed as the hypertransport, but it usually can go a little higher; set it as high as you can maintain stability with. Also note, that generally, Deneb-based CPUs prefer lower multipliers with higher HTTs; that is, they perform cooler with lower voltage for the same speed with lower multipliers.


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
First off, remove that overclock until you get temperatures under control. If he is running a 125 W C2, he is exceeding the thermal spec of 62Âº C. If he has a 95 W C2 or 95 W C3 he is getting a little warm, but still safe regards the limit of 71Âº C. At all times you want to keep your hypertransport between 1800 and 2000 for an AM3 CPU. The Northbridge is, by default, the same speed as the hypertransport, but it usually can go a little higher; set it as high as you can maintain stability with. Also note, that generally, Deneb-based CPUs prefer lower multipliers with higher HTTs; that is, they perform cooler with lower voltage for the same speed with lower multipliers.

Blitz,

Any idea which one this is( see attached)? I do have temps down to 58-60 now.


----------



## Blitz6804

It is definitely a C2 (listed as Revision RB-C2), but the question is whether it is 125 W or 95 W. If the processor's product code (stamped on the IHS, sometimes on the receipt) starts with HDX945WF, it is 95 W. If it starts with HDX945FB, it is 125 W. If the former, you can keep working on it; if the latter, you should hold until you get a better cooler.


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
It is definitely a C2 (listed as Revision RB-C2), but the question is whether it is 125 W or 95 W. If the processor's product code (stamped on the IHS, sometimes on the receipt) starts with HDX945WF, it is 95 W. If it starts with HDX945FB, it is 125 W. If the former, you can keep working on it; if the latter, you should hold until you get a better cooler.

In that case I will hold until I read the reciept. I don't really want to break down the cooler setup at the moment. Thanks for the advice. Other than that, if I can control temps, which i believe I can. Does it seem like I am on the right track?


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
It is definitely a C2 (listed as Revision RB-C2), but the question is whether it is 125 W or 95 W. If the processor's product code (stamped on the IHS, sometimes on the receipt) starts with HDX945WF, it is 95 W. If it starts with HDX945FB, it is 125 W. If the former, you can keep working on it; if the latter, you should hold until you get a better cooler.

Just read the reciept and it is in fact the 125w variation, Thanks again for the save. I thought the temp limit was 71 for all of these, glad that you were better informed than I.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Also note, that generally, Deneb-based CPUs prefer lower multipliers with higher HTTs;


Blitz, also note that some of the 790 boards cannot clock as high in terms of HT Clock speeds like our S939 boards can. There are however a few exceptions out there (ie. UD5P, GD70). With Black Edition processors it's a wise choice to play with the multiplier instead.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


Just read the reciept and it is in fact the 125w variation, Thanks again for the save. I thought the temp limit was 71 for all of these, glad that you were better informed than I.


Eternalenergy311, the overclock is looking great









Really at this point I think we need to find out what type of cooler this is. Sounds like to me it needs a remount with new thermal compound. Could airflow inside the case be another culprit for the high temps?

Good luck


----------



## Cvalley75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thanks Thlnk3r. I have a new can of worms for Hueristic to lauph at. I just installed Stalker Clear Sky on Win 7 but I can not start the game. Every time I try to start the game it gives me a you must be logged on as administrator to run this game for the first time. I don't understand it. I am logged on as Administrator and it still don't work.


Ive run into this before on Vista & I believe Win 7 is the same, right click the shortcut or exe whichever you use and choose "Run as Aministrator" , even if youre account is an Admin, you still need to run some programs with the run as admin thing, dunno why.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cvalley75*


Ive run into this before on Vista & I believe Win 7 is the same, right click the shortcut or exe whichever you use and choose "Run as Aministrator" , even if youre account is an Admin, you still need to run some programs with the run as admin thing, dunno why.


Oh thank you and blitz as well.

I finally figured it out last night. I was trying to get Stalker Clear Sky working and had several issues. I did run as admin from right clicking on the properties of the short cut and I also tried compatability mode.

It turns out I needed to patch the game first to get past the Admin thingy. Then after that I had to download and install the most recent TAGES drivers because the OS kept stopping the game for some driver compatability issue. A little research turned up the common Tages driver issue. The game runs fine now. actually I have not tried to run it in normal mode w/out the option run as admin yet. Oh well it's working flawlessly in SLI so I'm not even going to mess w/it now.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, also note that some of the 790 boards cannot clock as high in terms of HT Clock speeds like our S939 boards can. There are however a few exceptions out there (ie. UD5P, GD70). With Black Edition processors it's a wise choice to play with the multiplier instead.


 GB and MSI are turning out to be the bigger contenders these days. This being my first MSI board, I can say that I was pleasantly surprised.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Eternalenergy311, the overclock is looking great









Really at this point I think we need to find out what type of cooler this is. Sounds like to me it needs a remount with new thermal compound. Could airflow inside the case be another culprit for the high temps?

Good luck


 Exactly what I was thinking. I'd definitely check to see what cooler is on there and make sure it was mounted correctly. Too much TIM perhaps? Not enough pressure? And being that you have the side panels off, most coolers do fairly well with all of that fresh air.
At any rate, also try raising the CPU-NB frequency, there's a good bit of performance to be gained through the memory. Most C2's sit around 2600MHz with anywhere from 1.30 to 1.40v on the CPU-NB. But be sure to do LOTS of stability testing. You need to make sure it's stable otherwise lots of stuff will crash on you. I've found that ported games tend to get the most unstable when your OC is a little off. 
I'd recommend a minumum of 8.5 hours of prime95 blend. Some of my more ambitious 24/7 OC's would fail after 4 hours and some at right around the 8 hour mark.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


GB and MSI are turning out to be the bigger contenders these days. This being my first MSI board, I can say that I was pleasantly surprised.


BlackOmega, out of curiosity how high were you able to take the HT Clock speed on your GD70? I noticed you lapped your 720BE









Good luck


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Eternalenergy311, the overclock is looking great









Really at this point I think we need to find out what type of cooler this is. Sounds like to me it needs a remount with new thermal compound. Could airflow inside the case be another culprit for the high temps?

Good luck


The cooler is a Zallman 9500A and the thermal compound should have been applied correctly, I believe that I may have actually did it so it should be right.







I assisted in the build, but it was always at stock until I got my hands on he system last night. My buddy is big gamer and after seeing the results of my S939 thought I should "help him out". I'm going to try running with a little less voltage and see if i am still stable. I had run for over an hour last night stable in Prime 95, but those temps were up there.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, out of curiosity how high were you able to take the HT Clock speed on your GD70? I noticed you lapped your 720BE









Good luck


 I stopped at 270 @ stock voltage. I had no reason to go any higher, although I'm sure with some added NB voltage it would get up higher w/o issue.

I lapped my 720 pretty much right when I got it. Don't you remember? You sure you're getting enough sleep? Maybe you need some omega-3's (3000 mg/day).

EDIT:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


The cooler is a Zallman 9500A and the thermal compound should have been applied correctly, I believe that I may have actually did it so it should be right.







I assisted in the build, but it was always at stock until I got my hands on he system last night. My buddy is big gamer and after seeing the results of my S939 thought I should "help him out". I'm going to try running with a little less voltage and see if i am still stable. I had run for over an hour last night stable in Prime 95, but those temps were up there.


 Yeah those Zalmans aren't really that great for cooling. Hardly better than a stock opteron cooler. If he seriously want's to take it higher he should at least get either a Scythe Mugen2 or a Xiggy S1283. Either of those coolers with some ICDiamond7 and your temps should be pretty good. Although, if you lap the CPU, temps will be spectacular.


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I stopped at 270 @ stock voltage. I had no reason to go any higher, although I'm sure with some added NB voltage it would get up a higher w/o issue.


Black omega,

I tried raising that cpu-nb voltage some and still some stabilty issues after 15 minutes of prime with cpu volts at below 1.4, over 1.4 is stable but temps are pushing 60. Any thoughts?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


Black omega,

I tried raising that cpu-nb voltage some and still some stabilty issues after 15 minutes of prime with cpu volts at below 1.4, over 1.4 is stable but temps are pushing 60. Any thoughts?



Yep, I've got a couple. Can you run a quick validation as to what you're running at? And then what you have your CPU-NB frequency at.

If the CPU-NB frequency (it's not the same as NB) has not been increased, then you can set the voltage back to auto. As all that will do is create more heat unnecessarily.


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Yep, I've got a couple. Can you run a quick validation as to what you're running at? And then what you have your CPU-NB frequency at.

If the CPU-NB frequency (it's not the same as NB) has not been increased, then you can set the voltage back to auto. As all that will do is create more heat unnecessarily.


Blackomega,

here you go.


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


Blackomega,

here you go.


Northbridge is at like 2130 or close to that.


----------



## BlackOmega

Ok, first off, your Vcore is too low for the speed you're trying to run it at. While some CPU's can do it, most can't. Mind you I'm at 3.6 @ 1.496v. You're trying to run 3515 @ 1.37. That's a pretty huge difference. 
Also, since your CPU-NB is hardly overclocked, you should lower that voltage. With my CPU-NB frequency @ 2600MHz I'm @ 1.39v. So you're WAY too high for that speed.

What's the RAM running at?


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Ok, first off, your Vcore is too low for the speed you're trying to run it at. While some CPU's can do it, most can't. Mind you I'm at 3.6 @ 1.496v. You're trying to run 3515 @ 1.37. That's a pretty huge difference. 
Also, since your CPU-NB is hardly overclocked, you should lower that voltage. With my CPU-NB frequency @ 2600MHz I'm @ 1.39v. So you're WAY too high for that speed.

What's the RAM running at?


the ram is at 390. What is way too high? the HTT or the NB freq?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311* 
the ram is at 390. What is way too high? the HTT or the NB freq?


That's why I asked for the validation rather than the screenshot. The screenshot doesn't tell me much.

At any rate, your CPU-NB voltage is way too high. If the CPU-NB frequency is only at 2100MHz, like you said, it does not need 1.4 volts. Try 1.3v.

Then you need to raise the CPU voltage. 1.376v is not enough for 3.5GHz usually. Raise it to 1.425v and see how stable it is. Although this will more than likely make it exceed it's thermal limit.


----------



## Blitz6804

BlackOmega: My x4 940 runs 3510 all day long at 1.376 V. I have never had a crash due to my CPU at that speed or voltage. HOWEVER, it was done via 270x13. For 235x15, I was mostly stable at 1.376 V, but in order to never crash, voltage had to be increased to 1.408 V (droops to 1.392 V under load) if I remember right, might even had to be 1.424 V (no droop under load).


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I lapped my 720 pretty much right when I got it. Don't you remember? You sure you're getting enough sleep? Maybe you need some omega-3's (3000 mg/day).


BlackOmega, no actually I didn't. I can't keep up with everyone's builds









Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Also, since your CPU-NB is hardly overclocked, you should lower that voltage. With my CPU-NB frequency @ 2600MHz I'm @ 1.39v. So you're WAY too high for that speed.


I don't remember him posting his cpu-nb voltage. He mentioned his cpu voltage was bumped up to 1.4 volts but temperatures became an issue









Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


the ram is at 390. What is way too high? the HTT or the NB freq?


Eternalenergy311, you might want to try +.200 volts with anything over 2400MHz NB Freq with a 3.6Ghz OC. Anything below 2400Mhz NB Freq and +.100 is more than sufficient. Can you include a screen shot of your memory tab?

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


BlackOmega: My x4 940 runs 3510 all day long at 1.376 V. I have never had a crash due to my CPU at that speed or voltage. HOWEVER, it was done via 270x13. For 235x15, I was mostly stable at 1.376 V, but in order to never crash, voltage had to be increased to 1.408 V (droops to 1.392 V under load) if I remember right, might even had to be 1.424 V (no droop under load).


 Yeah but the difference is he's failing at 1.376v. And it also depends on how long you stability test, the longer you test the more voltage is required to maintain long term stability. 
I could run my CPU at lower vcore and my RAM at tighter timings and be OK for up to 5 hours of prime, but that's not stable.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, no actually I didn't. I can't keep up with everyone's builds










 Ahh sorry about that then. But if you want to help improve your memory anyway, take 3000 mg of Omega-3 fatty acids (fish oil), and try writing your name 3x daily with your non-dominant hand. 
There's some other tricks as well for improving your memory, if you're interested PM me (that goes for anyone not just thlnk3r).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


I don't remember him posting his cpu-nb voltage. He mentioned his cpu voltage was bumped up to 1.4 volts but temperatures became an issue










 I could be wrong (it was fairly late), but I could've swore in one of his other posts he mentioned that his CPU-NB voltage was @ 1.4v. I assume that he was trying to stabilize the reference clock with that. That won't stabilize it, it's just like our 939's, you up the NB voltage.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Eternalenergy311, you might want to try +.200 volts with anything over 2400MHz NB Freq with a 3.6Ghz OC. Anything below 2400Mhz NB Freq and +.100 is more than sufficient. Can you include a screen shot of your memory tab?
Good luck


 Thlnk3r, increasing the CPU-NB voltage is wholly dependent on the motherboard/CPU being used. I only have to raise the CPU-NB voltage .060v to get it to 2500, then to get it to 2600+ I need to up it considerably. Hopefully if eveything works out well then I'll be getting a C3 revision CPU soon. Speaking of which the C3 955 is available at the egg.


----------



## Blitz6804

BlackOmega: I was trying to be helpful. At 235x15, his settings, I crash with 1.376 V. I need at least 1.408 V to be stable at that speed. HOWEVER, if you do 270x13, only 5 MHz slower, 1.376 V is more than sufficient. In fact, 1.344 V would be stable with that 13x multiplier if not for the fact it droops to 1.328 V under load.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Thlnk3r, increasing the CPU-NB voltage is wholly dependent on the motherboard/CPU being used. I only have to raise the CPU-NB voltage .060v to get it to 2500, then to get it to 2600+ I need to up it considerably. Hopefully if eveything works out well then I'll be getting a C3 revision CPU soon. Speaking of which the C3 955 is available at the egg.









BlackOmega, understood but what kind of cpu overclock did you have at 2500Mhz?


----------



## eternalenergy311

This machine had to leave my domain, but here's what I finally got it stable at. I appreciate everyones help, especially BlackOmega and thinkr. Not the best results, but my friend is pretty happy, I personally wish I could have had more time with it. The bios setting were as follows:

multi 15x, FSB 232, DRAM 773, CPU/NB Freq 2088, HT link Speed 1.6ghz, CPU voltage 1.4125, Cpu/NB voltage 1.35, everything else I left at auto. Spread spectrums all diabled, and all other tricks as usual.

Here's the screen shots. It's only a little over 3.4 but at least its prime stable at 8 plus hours. This machine is also running dual 9800 gt vids in Sli, whose configuration I fell may still need some work, but thats another day.


----------



## Blitz6804

Can you get a better OC with a 14x multi? A 13x?


----------



## jim157

Hi, I'm new here and just found this thread. Had this 4200+ X2 Toledo at 2.64 GHz for a few years now, never tried to get it any higher (unambitious).

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=888628

Been meaning to upgrade but haven't got around to it yet. Still seems to do most the things I need relatively quickly....


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jim157*


Hi, I'm new here and just found this thread. Had this 4200+ X2 Toledo at 2.64 GHz for a few years now, never tried to get it any higher (unambitious).

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=888628

Been meaning to upgrade but haven't got around to it yet. Still seems to do most the things I need relatively quickly....


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


Here's the screen shots. It's only a little over 3.4 but at least its prime stable at 8 plus hours. This machine is also running dual 9800 gt vids in Sli, whose configuration I fell may still need some work, but thats another day.


Eternalenergy311, congrats on the 8 hour Prime95 test









Do you have plans on pushing the OC some more?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jim157*


Hi, I'm new here and just found this thread. Had this 4200+ X2 Toledo at 2.64 GHz for a few years now, never tried to get it any higher (unambitious).


Jim157, welcome to the club









I went ahead and added your details to the roster.

Let us know if you have any questions

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


BlackOmega: I was trying to be helpful. At 235x15, his settings, I crash with 1.376 V. I need at least 1.408 V to be stable at that speed. HOWEVER, if you do 270x13, only 5 MHz slower, 1.376 V is more than sufficient. In fact, 1.344 V would be stable with that 13x multiplier if not for the fact it droops to 1.328 V under load.


 My apologies, I didn't mean to come off in a bad way.

Those are some pretty interesting results with your multipliers. Now that classes are done







I'm going to try your method and hopefully, get a better overclock.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, understood but what kind of cpu overclock did you have at 2500Mhz?


 800MHz.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


This machine had to leave my domain, but here's what I finally got it stable at. I appreciate everyones help, especially BlackOmega and thinkr. Not the best results, but my friend is pretty happy, I personally wish I could have had more time with it. The bios setting were as follows:

multi 15x, FSB 232, DRAM 773, CPU/NB Freq 2088, HT link Speed 1.6ghz, CPU voltage 1.4125, Cpu/NB voltage 1.35, everything else I left at auto. Spread spectrums all diabled, and all other tricks as usual.

Here's the screen shots. It's only a little over 3.4 but at least its prime stable at 8 plus hours. This machine is also running dual 9800 gt vids in Sli, whose configuration I fell may still need some work, but thats another day.


 Nice result







. But yeah you definitely need more time simply due to the duration of stress testing. 
Next time you get it, you should mess around with the CPU-NB frequency, there is a nice performance gain to be had there.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jim157*


Hi, I'm new here and just found this thread. Had this 4200+ X2 Toledo at 2.64 GHz for a few years now, never tried to get it any higher (*unambitious*).

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=888628

Been meaning to upgrade but haven't got around to it yet. Still seems to do most the things I need relatively quickly....












939's are still very capable machines. Most people wouldn't need anything faster. Hell my folks are still using a single core P4 (423 pin) @ 2.0GHz, it's plenty for them. 
I just recently upgraded from my 939 rig to AM3. Although I still at least one 939 still going ([email protected]).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


800MHz.










BlackOmega, ahh well that explains why you were able to use such low cpu-nb voltage. Try using that same cpu-nb voltage but with a higher OC. Chances are you may run into issues (maybe)


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, ahh well that explains why you were able to use such low cpu-nb voltage. Try using that same cpu-nb voltage but with a higher OC. Chances are you may run into issues (maybe)










 No, no I think you misunderstood, that was the amount of my overclock, not what I was clocked at. So I was @ 3600 MHz.









EDIT: I currently run my NB @ 2600MHZ @ 1.39v.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


No, no I think you misunderstood, that was the amount of my overclock, not what I was clocked at. So I was @ 3600 MHz.









EDIT: I currently run my NB @ 2600MHZ @ 1.39v.


BlackOmega, sorry my apologizes. Just FYI 1.4 volts for the NB Frequency is probably the highest you'll want to go. 1.39 is not exactly low either.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, sorry my apologizes. Just FYI 1.4 volts for the NB Frequency is probably the highest you'll want to go. 1.39 is not exactly low either.


 Yeah the voltage is a little high for my taste. I think stock it runs @ 1.2v. (sorry don't remember







).

ANd I've come to the realization that the C2 revision is just limited. Over at the GD70 club a lot of the guys there went with C3's and were instantly able to get MUCH higher NB clocks with higher RAM frequencies (1600). NCspec I believe hit 3200 MHz on the CPU/NB frequency @ DDR3-1600.


----------



## Tator Tot

@*BlackOmega*

C3's can do 3Ghz NB pretty easy.

C2's can do 2700mhz NB decently, but it depends heavily on your numbers, Anything below 90200 can do it though.

The 965BE 140watt has the same IMC the C3's have though, so they can crank the NB as well.


----------



## Blitz6804

I do not know what number I have, but I know my chip does not like an NB over about 2100. Then again, I have an x4 940, not an AM3 model. Also, you are correct, CPU-NB stocks at 1.20 V. (At least for me, and NB Vcore is 1.175; or the other way around, I do not remember now.)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


CPU-NB stocks at 1.20 V. (At least for me, and NB Vcore is 1.175; or the other way around, I do not remember now.)


Blitz, I think it ranges a little bit. Most of the boards I've seen started at 1.175 volts.


----------



## SpykeZ

well, as some pages ago I stated I had to drop my CPU 50MHz cause it kept failing prime95 after 5 minutes when I put it back to 2.8 when trying to push 3.0.

Well I gave it rest for a week or so and I tried 2.8 again (2809 to be exact) and it's back to being a good lil champ, been running prime95 for abour 2 hours now, still more hours to go









Temps are maxing at about 65C on air cooling.

Just for giggles, anyone have any idea how I can push this thing to 3.0 stable? (ram is on auto right now, not good enough with ram stuff to mess with timings)

CPU Config:
HTT 4x
DRAM Auto
Cool n Quiet Disabled

CPU Frequency 255
DDR Voltave - Auto
Chipset 1.5v
HT 1.20v
CPU Multiplier x11
Cpu Voltage 1.350


----------



## Blitz6804

I would strongly advise against it. 65Âº C is already quite warm. Since you have a 110 W Toledo, you are at your absolute maximum temperature already.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*


well, as some pages ago I stated I had to drop my CPU 50MHz cause it kept failing prime95 after 5 minutes when I put it back to 2.8 when trying to push 3.0.

Well I gave it rest for a week or so and I tried 2.8 again (2809 to be exact) and it's back to being a good lil champ, been running prime95 for abour 2 hours now, still more hours to go









Temps are maxing at about 65C on air cooling.

Just for giggles, anyone have any idea how I can push this thing to 3.0 stable? (ram is on auto right now, not good enough with ram stuff to mess with timings)

CPU Config:
HTT 4x
DRAM Auto
Cool n Quiet Disabled

CPU Frequency 255
DDR Voltave - Auto
Chipset 1.5v
HT 1.20v
CPU Multiplier x11
Cpu Voltage 1.350


SpykeZ, if all you're after is getting to 3.0GHz (that is, without the intention of running there with an assurance of stability), there are two specific suggestions I'd make:

One is to improve your cooling situation. Whether this is done by a change in cooling equipment (a better heatsink, for example) or by lowering your ambient temperatures significantly (or both in combination) is up to you. But one of OCing's maxims is "Cooler is better" almost 100% of the time.

The other suggestion is to run with as little RAM as possible. I see you've got 4GBs right now. K8s don't like running with four DIMMs installed, so it's possible that even with your RAM settings on full AUTO, the sheer load of RAM the IMC has to carry may be adversely affecting your OC.

Now, if you're attempting to run 3.0GHz as a stable 24/7 OC, there's no shortcut that can be offered.







It takes a lot of RAM tweaking (which may not be possible if you don't have the right motherboard -- more precisely, the right BIOS settings -- available) and good cooling to have a 3.0GHz 24/7 stable OC; the challenge ramps up even more if you want to run with 4GBs of RAM.

Hope this helps.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 

Just for shtis and giggles, anyone have any idea how I can push this thing to 3.0 stable?

Lap your CPU and get a better cooler like this Xigmatek DarkKnight (it's worth the $5 extra for the fan that comes with it), or even this Refurb Thermaltake Big Typhoon (it'll most likely need to be lapped right out of the box).

That will help your temps dramatically, which in turn will allow you to get a better overclock.

Good Luck


----------



## Menace

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
SpykeZ, if all you're after is getting to 3.0GHz (that is, without the intention of running there with an assurance of stability), there are two specific suggestions I'd make:

One is to improve your cooling situation. Whether this is done by a change in cooling equipment (a better heatsink, for example) or by lowering your ambient temperatures significantly (or both in combination) is up to you. But one of OCing's maxims is "Cooler is better" almost 100% of the time.

The other suggestion is to run with as little RAM as possible. I see you've got 4GBs right now. K8s don't like running with four DIMMs installed, so it's possible that even with your RAM settings on full AUTO, the sheer load of RAM the IMC has to carry may be adversely affecting your OC.

Now, if you're attempting to run 3.0GHz as a stable 24/7 OC, there's no shortcut that can be offered.







It takes a lot of RAM tweaking (which may not be possible if you don't have the right motherboard -- more precisely, the right BIOS settings -- available) and good cooling to have a 3.0GHz 24/7 stable OC; the challenge ramps up even more if you want to run with 4GBs of RAM.

Hope this helps.










This would help explain why I'm stuck at 2.6ghz







I got 4x512mb corsair sticks. But I'm happy with the oc anyhow


----------



## SpykeZ

I plan on getting the H50 soon







(it's going on my AM3 build eventually)


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*


I plan on getting the H50 soon







(it's going on my AM3 build eventually)


 Cool! Definitely keep us posted with your results. However, lapping the CPU WILL decrease temps much more than a better cooler.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*


I plan on getting the H50 soon







(it's going on my AM3 build eventually)


Fry's is having a sale on this ^ H50


----------



## SpykeZ

don't have one in illinois


----------



## Hueristic

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=879628


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*


don't have one in illinois










 Actually they do, check over at www.frys.com. (their website says the H50 is $79.99 though).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=879628


 Nice.







I like the voltage


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Sizzlin', Hue!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=879628


So was that last Sunday b4 you killed the chip?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


So was that last Sunday b4 you killed the chip?













































:lach en:


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Menace*


This would help explain why I'm stuck at 2.6ghz







I got 4x512mb corsair sticks. But I'm happy with the oc anyhow










Menace, also if your command rate is set to 1T that may be holding you back. For better results trying changing the command rate (CR) to 2T.

Good luck

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Fry's is having a sale on this ^ H50


Wow figures I just bought one at Fry's last Saturday for regular price

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=879628


Hueristic, wow that is a lot of voltage!


----------



## N2Gaming

@ Thlnk3r. Find a reason to go back to fry's other then for the Corsair H50 and do a return for cash back or ask for a refund of the difference. If they say no to you then just return it then buy a new one at the lower price. Once again I'd only do it if you can find another reason to drive all the way back to fry's


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
@ Thlnk3r. Find a reason to go back to fry's other then for the Corsair H50 and do a return for cash back or ask for a refund of the difference. If they say no to you then just return it then buy a new one at the lower price. Once again I'd only do it if you can find another reason to drive all the way back to fry's









N2Gaming, actually I am. I'll call them in the morning to see if they'll pro-rate my purchase and possibly receive the rest via store credit. We shall see...


----------



## Shrimp

I used an AMD Athlon 64 3500+ 2.2GHz processor for two and a half years on I believe an RS480 motherboard. Good CPU for it's time.


----------



## eternalenergy311

So out of no where I have sudden temp increases across the board, GPU's, northbridge, CPU, and all of this is apperantly causing temp increases on my drives as well. This all started when i tried to uninstall some trial version of Nero, nothing to pressing. All my fans are running, volts seem normal. Its almost like something on the board is failing? Any thoughts?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


So out of no where I have sudden temp increases across the board, GPU's, northbridge, CPU, and all of this is apperantly causing temp increases on my drives as well. This all started when i tried to uninstall some trial version of Nero, nothing to pressing. All my fans are running, volts seem normal. Its almost like something on the board is failing? Any thoughts?










eternalenergy311, how much warmer are things running?


----------



## Blitz6804

eternalenergy311: Do you have heat on in the house? My temps increase by as much as 5Âº C across the board when the blower is on.


----------



## mattliston

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


So out of no where I have sudden temp increases across the board, GPU's, northbridge, CPU, and all of this is apperantly causing temp increases on my drives as well. This all started when i tried to uninstall some trial version of Nero, nothing to pressing. All my fans are running, volts seem normal. Its almost like something on the board is failing? Any thoughts?










if your drives are being effected, only two possibilities are possible

you have software control over your fans and it has been changed

OR

your ambient temperature went up


----------



## SpykeZ

Can someone edit my clock report in the first post to 2.75, I had to downclock 50MHz cause after I tried pushing 3.0 it wouldn't stay stable on 2.8 anymore lol.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=892104

new CPU-Z


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*


Can someone edit my clock report in the first post to 2.75, I had to downclock 50MHz cause after I tried pushing 3.0 it wouldn't stay stable on 2.8 anymore lol.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=892104

new CPU-Z


 Bah that sucks, that happened to my 3500+


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Bah that sucks, that happened to my 3500+










Ya I was a little peeved but it's 50MHz, what's that going to do for me lol.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*


Ya I was a little peeved but it's 50MHz, what's that going to do for me lol.


 True, mine dropped more than 50MHz unfortunately. More like 250-300.


----------



## N2Gaming

^ This ^ is the exact reason why I keep my Jibles in a tight sack and don't push the voltage envelope past 1.5v


----------



## mattliston

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 
Ya I was a little peeved but it's 50MHz, what's that going to do for me lol.

O NOZE 3 or 4 benchmark points difference









lol j/k


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


So out of no where I have sudden temp increases across the board, GPU's, northbridge, CPU, and all of this is apperantly causing temp increases on my drives as well. This all started when i tried to uninstall some trial version of Nero, nothing to pressing. All my fans are running, volts seem normal. Its almost like something on the board is failing? Any thoughts?


Eternalenergy311, do you for sure verify that _all _fans are running? Are there any intake fans that require you to remove the front bezel for viewing? It really sounds like your room ambient temperature increased.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*


Can someone edit my clock report in the first post to 2.75, I had to downclock 50MHz cause after I tried pushing 3.0 it wouldn't stay stable on 2.8 anymore lol.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=892104

new CPU-Z


SpykeZ, your request has been made









Just for testing purposes did you run a diagnostic on all four sticks of memory?

Good luck


----------



## thlnk3r

Everyone please welcome our newest member "ny_driver". He has a pretty nice 3700+ overclock: http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=891830

Nice job!


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Eternalenergy311, do you for sure verify that _all _fans are running? Are there any intake fans that require you to remove the front bezel for viewing? It really sounds like your room ambient temperature increased.

SpykeZ, your request has been made









Just for testing purposes did you run a diagnostic on all four sticks of memory?

Good luck


Sorta kinda, ran some memtest in windows up till about 50% no issues. guess I could do it out of windows.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*


Sorta kinda, ran some memtest in windows up till about 50% no issues. guess I could do it out of windows.


SpykeZ, absolutely. Some of the memory is being used while in Windows and while this is happening the diagnostic tool won't be able to test that part of the memory. For better results it's recommended that you run the tool outside of the OS









Could it be that you actually weren't completely stable at 2.8Ghz?

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey guys have you all seen this thread yet???


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


SpykeZ, absolutely. Some of the memory is being used while in Windows and while this is happening the diagnostic tool won't be able to test that part of the memory. For better results it's recommended that you run the tool outside of the OS









Could it be that you actually weren't completely stable at 2.8Ghz?

Good luck


oh ya I know







was just too lazy to pop the disk in and wait for it to do it's thing, I'm impaitient haha.

It's very possible I wasn't completely stable. I only ran prime95 for maybe an hour and a half on it. Then wanted to game and sorta forgot about it.

None the less, 2.75 is impressive enough for me. (8 hours prime95 no errors)


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 
None the less, 2.75 is impressive enough for me. (8 hours prime95 no errors)

SpykeZ, for a S939? Heck yeah it is!


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
SpykeZ, for a S939? Heck yeah it is!









and it's the first time I ever OC'd


----------



## cssorkinman

Heres my old FX 55 , doing business at 3.150 Ghz


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*


Heres my old FX 55 , doing business at 3.150 Ghz










Cssorkinman, nice! I haven't seen a FX chip in a while. I added your OC to the roster. Welcome to the club


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
^ This ^ is the exact reason why I keep my Jibles in a tight sack and don't push the voltage envelope past 1.5v









Wasn't so much the voltage but rather the heat. It got REALLY hot (84C idle), kind of my fault as I had the thermal shutdown thing disabled in the BIOS.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 
oh ya I know







was just too lazy to pop the disk in and wait for it to do it's thing, I'm impaitient haha.

It's very possible I wasn't completely stable. I only ran prime95 for maybe an hour and a half on it. Then wanted to game and sorta forgot about it.

None the less, 2.75 is impressive enough for me. (8 hours prime95 no errors)

Spykez, nice OC and 8 hours prime stable, good job







. Out of curiosity was is the "blend" test that you ran?
Anyhoo, I just noticed that you have a 5850, could you run 3dmark06 and post a screen shot of your results. I am _very_ interested in your results.


----------



## Tator Tot

Hey Guy's, just droppin a heads up if you want to check it out:

I've been working for a bit (out of hobby mostly) looking at free games and such. I'm no reviewer by any means (while the thought has crossed my mind)

But I have assembled a list of some of the free games I've played, and little 1-2 paragraph pieces on them.

Check out the list here


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


But I have assembled a list of some of the free games I've played, and little 1-2 paragraph pieces on them.

Check out the list here


Tator, wow that is a lot of games. I was checking out Mech Commander 2. The Mech series brings back memories


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator, wow that is a lot of games. I was checking out Mech Commander 2. The Mech series brings back memories










I was a huge Mech Warrior, Mech Assault, Mech Commander, Battle Tech fan.


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


I was a huge Mech Warrior, Mech Assault, Mech Commander, Battle Tech fan.


then you must know the rights to those games were bought back by the original owners I think last year


----------



## kwint

Did some benches for fun today.

3dmark 03, Settings as follows for all benches.

Resolution: 1280x1024
Anti-Aliasing: 4x
Ansiotropic Filtering:8x
Vertex Shaders: Optimal

Stock CPU and GPU speeds









Stock CPU OC'd GPU. 
Core: 710
Shaders: 1592
Memory: 850









OC'd CPU @ 2574 mhz. OC'D GPU with previous settings









I'd be willing to do some game tests if anyone is interested. I get bored. lol


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kwint*


Did some benches for fun today.

3dmark 03, Settings as follows for all benches.

Resolution: 1280x1024
Anti-Aliasing: 4x
Ansiotropic Filtering:8x
Vertex Shaders: Optimal

Stock CPU and GPU speeds









Stock CPU OC'd GPU. 
Core: 710
Shaders: 1592
Memory: 850









OC'd CPU @ 2574 mhz. OC'D GPU with previous settings









I'd be willing to do some game tests if anyone is interested. I get bored. lol


Do dawn of war 2 last man standing on wave 18......and good luck


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kwint*


Did some benches for fun today.


Kwint, cool comparisons. Thank you for sharing!

Nice increase after the cpu was overclocked


----------



## SpykeZ

I'm quite surprised how well this lil guy is still doing with games. Been playing DOW2 on 1920x1080 on pretty much max with 40+ FPS, granted it really heats up my CPU but none the less, it handles it, as well as anything else I've thrown at it since the OC.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey joe. Do you go by the name of txtmstrjoe for posting up pages of text like this. ? I'm bored so what else is there to do?


----------



## Tator Tot

You should edit your post N2, As Vista can do DX11 as well.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


You should edit your post N2, As Vista can do DX11 as well.


Thanks Tator I did not know that.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hey joe. Do you go by the name of txtmstrjoe for posting up pages of text like this. ? I'm bored so what else is there to do?


ROFL That is one humongous post! LOL

Covers lots of the important bases, though.









Bleh Time for sleep! Staying up playing on the PS3 last night with my cousin is killing me right now.


----------



## HothBase

Hey guys, do you think I'll be OK running my AM3 build (sig) on my old 450W Corsair while waiting for the 650W?
It should be fine as long as I don't overclock, right?


----------



## arronw10

hi what cpu could i ge to upgrade to


----------



## Blitz6804

HothBase: Not if you already have the HD 5770 I wouldn't. I think it best just to use the 939 for now just to play it safe.

arronw10: There really is not much you can upgrade an Athlon II x4 620 to aside of going Phenom II x4. As I said before, your money would be far better spent invested in an actual graphics card rather than using the HD 3200 of your 790 GX.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


Hey guys, do you think I'll be OK running my AM3 build (sig) on my old 450W Corsair while waiting for the 650W?
It should be fine as long as I don't overclock, right?


HothBase, the VX450 has plenty of juice to power your rig. It has 33 amps total on the 12 volt rail which is plenty for a ATI 5770. These 57x0 cards consume less power then the older 48x0 series. Wattage wise you are well within the limits of the PSU.

Good luck


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Eternalenergy311, do you for sure verify that _all_ fans are running? Are there any intake fans that require you to remove the front bezel for viewing? It really sounds like your room ambient temperature increased.



My ambient roiom temp had increased some, maybe 4-5 degrees F. But my temps had increaseed from an idle 34 to 50 on my cpu, and around 10 degrees everywhre else as well. What I actually thought i found wrong was some bios settings regarding fan control had somehow came back on, eg; cool and quiet and some other fans set to only run at 60% under no load, or some other condtion, I really don't remember. I have been having trouble with my cmos resetting, so I figured it was time for a battery. Anyway's i switched back the bios settings, and have had no problems since my last post. System temps were nice and cool again, ambient room temps were nice and hot, maybe 75 F, so I would say no problems....





































And then this morning, I wake up, machine is off. Will not boot. I reset cmos. It still will not boot. It starts to boot for about 3-5 seconds, spins all the fans, beeps once as it normally does, and then nothing. Power stops, I hit the pwr btn again and no luck. I have only had time to try and swap around the memory as I had to come to the office, but it is not looking good. I am hoping it is only the battery but, mb seems more likely I feel, or the PSU. I guess I have everything to test out hardware with the exception of a MB/cpu. I know i am just upset about the situation and not thinking straight about troubleshooting yet, so any suggestions are always welcome. FYI, this is my sig rig.


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311* 
My ambient roiom temp had increased some, maybe 4-5 degrees F. But my temps had increaseed from an idle 34 to 50 on my cpu, and around 10 degrees everywhre else as well. What I actually thought i found wrong was some bios settings regarding fan control had somehow came back on, eg; cool and quiet and some other fans set to only run at 60% under no load, or some other condtion, I really don't remember. I have been having trouble with my cmos resetting, so I figured it was time for a battery. Anyway's i switched back the bios settings, and have had no problems since my last post. System temps were nice and cool again, ambient room temps were nice and hot, maybe 75 F, so I would say no problems....





































And then this morning, I wake up, machine is off. Will not boot. I reset cmos. It still will not boot. It starts to boot for about 3-5 seconds, spins all the fans, beeps once as it normally does, and then nothing. Power stops, I hit the pwr btn again and no luck. I have only had time to try and swap around the memory as I had to come to the office, but it is not looking good. I am hoping it is only the battery but, mb seems more likely I feel, or the PSU. I guess I have everything to test out hardware with the exception of a MB/cpu. I know i am just upset about the situation and not thinking straight about troubleshooting yet, so any suggestions are always welcome. FYI, this is my sig rig.

PSU is the culprit, have to resort to an old skyhawk 300w p4 psu until I can buy a new one. At least its not the mb or cpu. I did notice some 12v- volts dropping but never really was concerned until now


----------



## godofdeath

which option do you run prime95 under to do the stability test?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *godofdeath* 
which option do you run prime95 under to do the stability test?

You run the blend test to test overall system stability.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
You run the blend test to test overall system stability.

ok thanks
i will start it in a few minutes, i think i'll let it run for 18 or so hours unless i dig out my mac


----------



## BlackOmega

Make sure your CPU temp doesn't go over 65C.

Good Luck


----------



## godofdeath

the cpu or the core???
right now the cores high are 144 and 156 F

running coretemp to see the temps


----------



## eternalenergy311

This is an aussie friend of mines new build. Blue screens when gaming after about 5 minutes (WOW). I assume mem problem, having her run memtest now. Configs look ok I think but i don't know the new Intel stuff very well. Any help from you guys or hit the Intel boards?


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


This is an aussie friend of mines new build. Blue screens when gaming after about 5 minutes (WOW). I assume mem problem, having her run memtest now. Configs look ok I think but i don't know the new Intel stuff very well. Any help from you guys or hit the Intel boards?


forgort the link oops....http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=898124


----------



## Blitz6804

godofdeath: Keep the CORES under 65Âº C / 149Âº F.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311* 
PSU is the culprit, have to resort to an old skyhawk 300w p4 psu until I can buy a new one. At least its not the mb or cpu. I did notice some 12v- volts dropping but never really was concerned until now

Eternalenergy311, great job on troubleshooting the issue. Perhaps the faulty PSU was emitting higher than normal amounts of heat and it was not exhausting it properly thus causing failure. This might also be the cause of some of the build up in temps in your case. This is of course pure speculation. Checking the PSU with a multimeter would have been another great way on checking the rails.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311* 
This is an aussie friend of mines new build. Blue screens when gaming after about 5 minutes (WOW). I assume mem problem, having her run memtest now. Configs look ok I think but i don't know the new Intel stuff very well. Any help from you guys or hit the Intel boards?

It very well could be memory related. With that many sticks of memory you have a higher chance of failure. For memtest86+ I typically suggest tests 5 and 8. Run them through for about three loops a piece. If memtest passes then I would check cpu and gpu temperatures during gaming.

Keep us updated

Good luck


----------



## godofdeath

9 hrs of prime95 nothing yet
Anyway to increase fan speeds on the cpu? I'm running a arctic cooler freeze 64 pro with its 4 pin thing, in my 3 pin cpu fan slot. 
Im scared for that always hovering 149F mark. With occasional highs at 153


----------



## Blitz6804

If you are using a PWM fan on a 3-pin header, it will always run at full speed. The fourth wire tells the fan to turn on and off to produce what is known as a duty cycle. If it is on for 2 ms, then off for 1 ms, then on for 2, off for 1 et cetera, that would give you a 66% duty cycle. That is, the fan is on 66% of the time. As I said, without the fourth wire, you are fixed at 100%. Your motherboard might have a fan control of some kind built into the three pin. This type operates by reducing the voltage going to the fan, thereby making the fan spin slower. Ensure that any fan control features are OFF in the BIOS to prevent this.

Occasional flirts past 149Âº F should not be a problem, but remember that this is (most likely) winter, and your ambients will be higher six months from now. What is stable now might be too hot then.


----------



## godofdeath

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=900833

here it is after 24 hrs of prime95
stable
only messed with increasing the cpu

gonna look into ways to reduce the temps because im getting readings around 120F


----------



## N2Gaming

Good Job G.o.D. oh and lol at your first inicials of your account user name.

Edit: especially since you are using 4x1GB of RAM.


----------



## BlackOmega

GJ, God Of Death. Looks to be a rock solid overclock. Good Job!









Somewhat OT:  (You can click it







).

At any rate, I managed to stabilize my RAM @ 1600 with 7-7-7-21-28-1T timings







16.5 hours Prime95 Blend stable. I toyed with RAM frequency for a very short little bit last night, got the RAM to 1704. It wound up failing Prime blend after 5 minutes. I bet if I fine tune it, it should be able to run at the frequency sans issue. 
BTW, this is with my NB @ 2600 MHz.


----------



## godofdeath

what would happen if i lower the volts on the cpu thing?
would it get unstable?


----------



## Blitz6804

You may, you may not. It depends if you are on the hairy edge of stability; the only way to know is to test.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


what would happen if i lower the volts on the cpu thing?
would it get unstable?


 Well it depends on how you got to your current voltage. If you just jumped several notches up, it's possible that it's too high. However, if you went step by step with the voltage and this is the first _stable_ voltage, then yes, if you lower your voltage on the cpu "thingy" it will become unstable.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well it depends on how you got to your current voltage. If you just jumped several notches up, it's possible that it's too high. However, if you went step by step with the voltage and this is the first _stable_ voltage, then yes, if you lower your voltage on the cpu "thingy" it will become unstable.


haha
i did jump

i used spykez info for what he did with his cpu


----------



## BlackOmega

What's the voltage that you're at? Temps?


----------



## Blitz6804

1.360 V if I read the validation right.


----------



## BlackOmega

Hell if it's 1.36v then GodofDeath should just leave it be since that is the stock voltage.


----------



## Blitz6804

Some chips can operate fine sub-stock. Pioneerisloud's for example can do 2.6 GHz with 1.220 V or less if I remember right. Mine could do that with about 1.328 V if that is remembered correctly. Only way to know is to test, even if just to give better thermal overhead until the cooler is upgraded.


----------



## godofdeath

well on the bios its at 1.35v
temps around 120 if i run firefox i think
idle maybe 110
can't check now, since im giving the thing a rest lol


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Some chips can operate fine sub-stock. Pioneerisloud's for example can do 2.6 GHz with 1.220 V or less if I remember right. Mine could do that with about 1.328 V if that is remembered correctly. Only way to know is to test, even if just to give better thermal overhead until the cooler is upgraded.


 Yeah but Pio's chip is a freak of nature.









But you've got a point with the thermal overhead. But then again that is the reason I lap, I don't have to worry about thermal limits. Since lapping my 720 hasn't gone over 49C (46C @ the core).


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=900833

here it is after 24 hrs of prime95
stable
only messed with increasing the cpu

gonna look into ways to reduce the temps because im getting readings around 120F


That's only 49 degrees C. Whats the prob? I think the OC looks great. My Toledo runs at 56 loaded if i run prime that long, and my cpu cooler is junk, although it is lapped.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


That's only 49 degrees C. Whats the prob? I think the OC looks great. My Toledo runs at 56 loaded if i run prime that long, and my cpu cooler is junk, although it is lapped.


lol that's because I like to keep it extra cool
maybe I'll see how it runs if I use cool n quiet


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:


Originally Posted by *godofdeath* 
lol that's because I like to keep it extra cool
maybe I'll see how it runs if I use cool n quiet

From what I understand cool and quiet is great if your running stock, overclocked, alot of people say disable it, myself included. I'm sure it varies per rig. Good luck. BTW, have you tried some of the simple/cheap things first, like some artic silver paste, cable routing, not letting your intake fans suck hot air off other componets on your desk into your case. lol, ok that was me.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311* 
From what I understand cool and quiet is great if your running stock, overclocked, alot of people say disable it, myself included. I'm sure it varies per rig. Good luck. BTW, have you tried some of the simple/cheap things first, like some artic silver paste, cable routing, not letting your intake fans suck hot air off other componets on your desk into your case. lol, ok that was me.

using w/e it was that came with my arctic cooling 64 freezer pro.
Uh there's nothing on my desk lol, on top of the case is space, and then a board, and then my garbage lol.
and waiting for zip ties to better manage the old psu I got.


----------



## N2Gaming

Does any one know the latest Update for Burnout Paradise the Ultimate Box (PC)? I got it installed in SLI w/no issues atm and need to update the game so I can play online.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Good Job G.o.D. oh and lol at your first inicials of your account user name.

Edit: especially since you are using 4x1GB of RAM.

My thoughts exactly. Great job on the overclock Godofdeath! I'll go ahead and update the roster with your new OC.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
At any rate, I managed to stabilize my RAM @ 1600 with 7-7-7-21-28-1T timings 16.5 hours Prime95 Blend stable. I toyed with RAM frequency for a very short little bit last night, got the RAM to 1704. It wound up failing Prime blend after 5 minutes. I bet if I fine tune it, it should be able to run at the frequency sans issue.
BTW, this is with my NB @ 2600 MHz.

That is really good for 2600Mhz and 1600 memory. You could try lowering the sub-timings if you wanted to. That coupled with 2600Mhz NB Freq would definitely show in the Everest memory benches. Do you have plans to go higher than 3.6Ghz?

Good luck


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:


Originally Posted by *godofdeath* 
using w/e it was that came with my arctic cooling 64 freezer pro.
Uh there's nothing on my desk lol, on top of the case is space, and then a board, and then my garbage lol.
and waiting for zip ties to better manage the old psu I got.

The best 9 dollars you may ever spend, unless your in China.









http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...artic+silver+5


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


That is really good for 2600Mhz and 1600 memory. You could try lowering the sub-timings if you wanted to. That coupled with 2600Mhz NB Freq would definitely show in the Everest memory benches. Do you have plans to go higher than 3.6Ghz?

Good luck










 I might go with 3.7, but I'd need at least a whole day to test and stabilize. I probably wont go beyond 3.7 for 24/7 usage, hell I might not even go with 3.7 if the voltage is too high. 
And if the voltage is too high for 3700, then I'll just mess around with my RAM frequency and timings. I wonder how high I can actually get it.







The RAM is rated for 1866 @ 8-8-8-24-2T.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


The best 9 dollars you may ever spend, unless your in China.









http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...artic+silver+5


eh they said it was arctic mx something which is equivalent to the arctic silver, so I didnt bother.

And arctic silver is cheaper off ebay lol
best 5 bucks spent you will spend


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I might go with 3.7, but I'd need at least a whole day to test and stabilize. I probably wont go beyond 3.7 for 24/7 usage, hell I might not even go with 3.7 if the voltage is too high. 
And if the voltage is too high for 3700, then I'll just mess around with my RAM frequency and timings. I wonder how high I can actually get it.







The RAM is rated for 1866 @ 8-8-8-24-2T.


BlackOmega, is the cpu-z validation link correct with the cpu voltage as 1.49 volts? Try 1.55 volts. These chips can take it...don't worry about "frying" anything hehe









For memory I would test both configurations but I have a feeling lower sub-timings and a higher nb freq will be the thing to run. Use Everest for comparisons. I would love to see the differences!

Good luck


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


eh they said it was arctic mx something which is equivalent to the arctic silver, so I didnt bother.

And arctic silver is cheaper off ebay lol
best 5 bucks spent you will spend


As a loyal newegg customer umm what can I say, yeh forget it, I like cheap. Thanks for the advice.


----------



## N2Gaming

I prefer Arctic cooloing MX-2. It's non conductve w/out any burn in time prior to optimum cooling preties and it has a way longer shelf life. MX-2 = better than AS5 IMO


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


As a loyal newegg customer umm what can I say, yeh forget it, I like cheap. Thanks for the advice.










lol if you are going that route and also use paypal, dont forget the bing cashback which is currently at 10% lol and ebay bucks too at 2% so 12% off lol


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


lol if you are going that route and also use paypal, dont forget the bing cashback which is currently at 10% lol and ebay bucks too at 2% so 12% off lol


ooo. the deal sweetens, makes me wanna go dig through the shelves and build another system just for fun. No not really, 3 running in this house is plenty. Not to mention whatever I am working on, and i wonder why the ambient temps are high around here.









On another note, what does anyone know about this memory. Opinions on weather or not with it I may finally hit that 3 ghz mark, stable that is.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820146425


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, is the cpu-z validation link correct with the cpu voltage as 1.49 volts? Try 1.55 volts. These chips can take it...don't worry about "frying" anything hehe









For memory I would test both configurations but I have a feeling lower sub-timings and a higher nb freq will be the thing to run. Use Everest for comparisons. I would love to see the differences!

Good luck


 Yep, the voltage is correct. 
And to tell you the truth, I don't really pay much attention to voltage anymore, it's the temps that are more of my concern. I figure with enough cooling, I should be able to run as much voltage as I want through it. 
Next free day I get, I'll see what it takes to run 3700/3800 stable. If it's within reason I might have a new OC. I'll be sure to post my Everest results when I do it.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


ooo. the deal sweetens, makes me wanna go dig through the shelves and build another system just for fun. No not really, 3 running in this house is plenty. Not to mention whatever I am working on, and i wonder why the ambient temps are high around here.









On another note, what does anyone know about this memory. Opinions on weather or not with it I may finally hit that 3 ghz mark, stable that is.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820146425


this is better? price wise
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820226108

looks the same as yours lol


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


this is better? price wise
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820226108

looks the same as yours lol


yeh i saw that, not sure what the diff is?


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


yeh i saw that, not sure what the diff is?













































COLOR!!!! lol and the fact that there's no reviews, I don't even remember it being there like last week lol


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


yeh i saw that, not sure what the diff is?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*












































COLOR!!!! lol and the fact that there's no reviews, I don't even remember it being there like last week lol


The Mushkin HP Sticks (blue) and Mushkin XP Sticks (black) use the same IC's (Winbond UTTs) so there is not really a difference besides the XP's having a thicker PCB, which might lead to cooler temps, and better overclocking. But I highly doubt it.


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


The Mushkin HP Sticks (blue) and Mushkin XP Sticks (black) use the same IC's (Winbond UTTs) so there is not really a difference besides the XP's having a thicker PCB, which might lead to cooler temps, and better overclocking. But I highly doubt it.


thanks for the info, any thoughts on thier oc ability?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


thanks for the info, any thoughts on thier oc ability?


They are good for there rated. That's about it. You might be able to push them to 450mhz with the same timings.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *godofdeath* 
lol that's because I like to keep it extra cool
maybe I'll see how it runs if I use cool n quiet


Quote:


Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311* 
From what I understand cool and quiet is great if your running stock, overclocked, alot of people say disable it, myself included. I'm sure it varies per rig.

Personally, I disable Cool 'n' Quiet only when finding the limits of my hardware. After I have done that, Cool 'n' Quiet is reenabled on my computer. If Cool 'n' Quiet cannot work due to a changed multiplier (DFI LP 790FX-M2RS pre newest BIOS) or changed voltage (Abit AT8-32x / Gigabyte GA-K8NSC-939) I will use CrystalCPUID's "Crystal-n-Quiet" for a K8 or K10stat's multiplier adjust for a K10 / K10.5. However Cool 'n' Quiet does absolutely nothing for you at load, only at idle. What it does is when your CPU is not in use, it reduces your multiplier and voltage to reduce power needs. Consequently, this will reduce the heat of the CPU, and if you use a fan dependent on temperature, run quieter.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Does any one know the latest Update for Burnout Paradise the Ultimate Box (PC)? I got it installed in SLI w/no issues atm and need to update the game so I can play online.









The current version is 1.100. If you have the EA Download Manager installed (which I refuse to have) it will automatically download for you. If not, I can send you the patch file or you can download on numerous game sites online.


----------



## godofdeath

stability testing is on the go
changed the voltage down a notch from 1.35 to 1.325
max right now on the cores is 136 and 149


----------



## kwint

LOL @ everest reporting no battery.

Does anyone get bottlenecked by their cpu in games at widescreen resolutions? (1440x900)


----------



## Blitz6804

Remember godofdeath, AMD's reported thermal spec for your CPU is 149Âº F. If you see it go higher, you really should get a better cooler or put off overclocking until you get a better cooler.

With thermal interface materials, I have found that OCZ Freeze Extreme beats my best Arctic Silver 5 temperatures by about 1-2Âº C post AS5 burn-in. (OCZFE does not require time to cure; AS5 needs around 100 hours for good improvements, 200 hours for peak performance.) As BlackOmega (and thlnk3r too) has said, lapping your surfaces will improve temperatures to a good degree. I have in the past lapped only my cooler and saw a several degree drop, lapping both will result in an even better drop.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


The current version is 1.100. If you have the EA Download Manager installed (which I refuse to have) it will automatically download for you. If not, I can send you the patch file or you can download on numerous game sites online.


Thanks Blitz. I took a chance and installed that patch last night. So now it tries to go online but now I'm locked out of online racing because I had the game licensed to another OS install. I'm awaiting cust/tech supt on the phone atm. hopefully they can get it fixed so I can go online again.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
The current version is 1.100. If you have the EA Download Manager installed (which I refuse to have) it will automatically download for you. If not, I can send you the patch file or you can download on numerous game sites online.

Why not just install EA DM install what you need/want, then uninstall? (Be sure to check your registry too).

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kwint* 
LOL @ everest reporting no battery.

Does anyone get bottlenecked by their cpu in games at widescreen resolutions? (1440x900)

At that resolution you shouldn't see a bottleneck. More than likely the GPU is not powerful enough for the settings. Try removing things like shadows in the video settings (leave AA on). Shadows tend to wreak havoc on a weaker GPU's, disabling them usually gives a noticeable frame rate improvement.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Remember godofdeath, AMD's reported thermal spec for your CPU is 149Âº F. If you see it go higher, you really should get a better cooler or put off overclocking until you get a better cooler.

With thermal interface materials, I have found that OCZ Freeze Extreme beats my best Arctic Silver 5 temperatures by about 1-2Âº C post AS5 burn-in. (OCZFE does not require time to cure; AS5 needs around 100 hours for good improvements, 200 hours for peak performance.) As BlackOmega (and thlnk3r too) has said, lapping your surfaces will improve temperatures to a good degree. I have in the past lapped only my cooler and saw a several degree drop, lapping both will result in an even better drop.

OCZ is good stuff. Personally, I have found IC Diamond 7 to be the best. On 2 of my 939 rigs, ICD7 lowered my idle temp 3C and load temp 7C over cured AS5.
Although, with lapped surfaces I have found the white pigeon poop TIM to actually be the best, simply because it's so thin. Some of the thicker TIM's can actually impede heat transfer and eventually start working more like an insulator rather than as a conductive medium.


----------



## godofdeath

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=902389

updated one with 1.325v

and just realized something else

my computer says im running directx11?
thought that was possible only in the newest cards


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=902389

updated one with 1.325v

and just realized something else

my computer says im running directx11?
thought that was possible only in the newest cards


Just because its there doesn't mean the games you play or apps you use will run at it. So yes your right, no card support, no dx11. It can be installed though, and prob is. You can use the direct x tool to verify. Start-run-type "dxdiag", hit ok


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


Just because its there doesn't mean the games you play or apps you use will run at it. So yes your right, no card support, no dx11. It can be installed though, and prob is. You can use the direct x tool to verify. Start-run-type "dxdiag", hit ok


yea did that, said its dx11


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


my computer says im running directx11?
thought that was possible only in the newest cards


Godofdeath, just to clarify..the "DirectX Version" in dxdiag is "11"? Can you include a screen shot for us?


----------



## godofdeath

here it is, maybe my eyes are bad


----------



## mattliston

Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


here it is, maybe my eyes are bad



DX11 is a technology. you can have DX11 without having a DX11 card

same as windows xp sp2 shipping with dx 9.0c you can still use dx8 cards


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


here it is, maybe my eyes are bad


Godofdeath, ahhh you have Windows 7. My apologizes. For some reason I assumed you had Windows XP. DirectX 11 is one of the Windows 7 features (pre-installed).

Good luck


----------



## godofdeath

ahhh ok thx alot everyone

now back to mac cleaning


----------



## N2Gaming

@ BO: I don't want to have to uninstall any software. EA took care of me and game me a new key code so I can now play online. I have it running awesome at 1920x1080 8xAA FTW.

Now all I have to do is figure out how to transfer the save file so I get all my cars and Drivers license back to where it was when I was playing it on XP.


----------



## eternalenergy311

N2 Gaming,

Regarding the link in your sig, is this a competition, and if so are entries ranked by percentage of overclock, some type of benchmark, or what excatly is/was the deal? Just curious.


----------



## Blitz6804

BlackOmega: I did not install the download manager for exactly the reason N2Gaming found out. I was able to change my OS install and still play online without any issue whatsoever. I also dislike software auto updating, but instead, updating only when I tell it to.

N2Gaming: In Windows 7, the save files will go into:

C:\\Users\\YOURUSERNAMEHERE\\AppData\\Local \\VirtualStore\\Program Files (x86)\\Electronic Arts

On Windows XP, I BELIEVE they were in:

C:\\Program Files (x86)\\Electronic Arts


----------



## redhat_ownage

update

highest clock
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=885936

highest fsb
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=889026

Athlon 64 3000 Venice 9multi
Biostar T-force 6100-939
1gb Gskill pc3200 ZX (tested stable to 290mhz 3-3-2-4 2T 2.8V)

my bro has an athlon 4000 that will do 3.2 on air!! but he works everyday from 9-8 so i dont think i will be able to get another dump of that, i say another because i cant remember the number from the original.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


I was a huge Mech Warrior, Mech Assault, Mech Commander, Battle Tech fan.


Mexh Assualt! Most ubder-rated eber!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*


then you must know the rights to those games were bought back by the original owners I think last year


FASA is back in the game?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


9 hrs of prime95 nothing yet
Anyway to increase fan speeds on the cpu? I'm running a arctic cooler freeze 64 pro with its 4 pin thing, in my 3 pin cpu fan slot. 
Im scared for that always hovering 149F mark. With occasional highs at 153


BAH [email protected] stavle is all you ned!









Well I tried to catch up! 4 more pages to go. Hope to see you guys tomorra.







Gnight all and sorry for the MIA lately.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Well I tried to catch up! 4 more pages to go. Hope to see you guys tomorra.







Gnight all and sorry for the MIA lately.










lol i run boinc b/c theres a rice thing to help the world lol


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


N2 Gaming,

Regarding the link in your sig, is this a competition, and if so are entries ranked by percentage of overclock, some type of benchmark, or what excatly is/was the deal? Just curious.


Well it's a ever evolving thread but the idea was to give recognitian to the best 20 overclockers per category by highest obtainable Frequency for each catefory. I need to update the thread. I've just been putting it off since there is not much interest in it these days.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


N2Gaming: In Windows 7, the save files will go into:

C:\\Users\\YOURUSERNAMEHERE\\AppData\\Local \\VirtualStore\\Program Files (x86)\\Electronic Arts

On Windows XP, I BELIEVE they were in:

C:\\Program Files (x86)\\Electronic Arts


Thanks blitz, I was told by EA that the XP save file in under My documents folder some where's. LOL.

I'll have a look at my 7 install to see if I can find the location in 7 now w/your guidance.


----------



## Blitz6804

C:\\Documents and Settings\\YOURUSERNAME\\AppData ?


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Well it's a ever evolving thread but the idea was to give recognitian to the best 20 overclockers per category by highest obtainable Frequency for each catefory. I need to update the thread. I've just been putting it off since there is not much interest in it these days.










Cool I was wondering because on your current list, I would be up there, and theres like 3-or 4 higher than me just on this clubs list with the same core, and countless more S939'ers way past me. Thats why I thought there must be some other criteria. But like you said, its just out of date. Someday I'll get there, maybe, I really need to research my steppings. I am prob chasing a hopeless dream.


----------



## Blitz6804

All you need to do is submit.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


C:\\Documents and Settings\\YOURUSERNAME\\AppData ?


I'm not even finding the win 7 location...









Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


Cool I was wondering because on your current list, I would be up there, and theres like 3-or 4 higher than me just on this clubs list with the same core, and countless more S939'ers way past me. Thats why I thought there must be some other criteria. But like you said, its just out of date. Someday I'll get there, maybe, I really need to research my steppings. I am prob chasing a hopeless dream.










NP, there is not as many 939 overclocker in that thread. There's a few like BO, Kryton and a few others. Don't worry it's not going any where.


----------



## Blitz6804

N2Gaming: That is the XP location. The Win 7 location should be in C:\\Users\\YOURUSERNAMEHERE\\AppData\\Local \\VirtualStore\\Program Files (x86)\\.


----------



## N2Gaming

Oh sorry blitz I followed you first post and was not able to find appdata folder. maybe I need to enable hidden files or sumtin. IDK


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


Cool I was wondering because on your current list, I would be up there, and theres like 3-or 4 higher than me just on this clubs list with the same core, and countless more S939'ers way past me. Thats why I thought there must be some other criteria. But like you said, its just out of date. Someday I'll get there, maybe, I really need to research my steppings. I am prob chasing a hopeless dream.










I'm back guys! 
Didn't sink the boat, have to swim back or anything so I had a good time.









eternalenergy, it's not as hopeless as you may think. 
Good steppings to get with a Toledo, Opteron or San Diego core would be the LCB9E or LCBQE steppings. These are the two best ones and the LCBBE stepping chips tend to do well too, just not quite as well as the other two I mentioned. 
BTW the two I mentioned are also the newest steppings you can get, LCBQE being the most recent of them all. If you have or can find one of those, you should be in good shape.

My X2 4200 is a LCBQE chip and with the CPU-Z verification I have, it's currently ranked #4 in the world according to Ripping.org's database. Not too bad at all and I know I could get the #3 if I really wanted to - Or just got off my lazy butt to do it.......


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes, you MUST have hidden files visible. I do not think it is a protected system file, so feel free to keep them hidden.


----------



## N2Gaming

Welcome back Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Yes, you MUST have hidden files visible. I do not think it is a protected system file, so feel free to keep them hidden.

I don't see any appdata folder under c\\users\\username\\appdata


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Welcome back Kryton

Good to be back.

Hoping to do something about that #3 spot after I fix a leak I found before I left. Believe the X2 can pull it off since the current run was done in May or June and now I have cooler temps to work with too.
Need to get it in gear and just "Do It".


----------



## N2Gaming

Sounds like me w/every thing in my life Kryton. I just need to do it.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
I'm back guys!
Didn't sink the boat, have to swim back or anything so I had a good time.


























Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
eternalenergy, it's not as hopeless as you may think.
Good steppings to get with a Toledo, Opteron or San Diego core would be the LCB9E or LCBQE steppings. These are the two best ones and the LCBBE stepping chips tend to do well too, just not quite as well as the other two I mentioned.
BTW the two I mentioned are also the newest steppings you can get, LCBQE being the most recent of them all. If you have or can find one of those, you should be in good shape.

My X2 4200 is a LCBQE chip and with the CPU-Z verification I have, it's currently ranked #4 in the world according to Ripping.org's database. Not too bad at all and I know I could get the #3 if I really wanted to - Or just got off my lazy butt to do it.......

Very nice and I'll vouch for the LCB*E stepping. It's really good, fairly easy to get good clocks out of them. My LCB9E Opty 180 clocked to 2.9 without any voltage increase.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage* 
update

highest clock
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=885936

Athlon 64 3000 Venice 9multi
Biostar T-force 6100-939
1gb Gskill pc3200 ZX (tested stable to 290mhz 3-3-2-4 2T 2.8V)

Redhat_ownage, wow great job! The few 3000+ processors that I've had couldn't even do 2.2Ghz









I've updated the roster with your new entry. Are you able to past stability tests at those clocks?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
I'm back guys!
Didn't sink the boat, have to swim back or anything so I had a good time.

Kryton, welcome back buddy!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Redhat_ownage, wow great job! The few 3000+ processors that I've had couldn't even do 2.2Ghz







!

I don't think you pushed your cpu's to 1.712v though did you?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I don't think you pushed your cpu's to 1.712v though did you?

N2Gaming, oh I definitely did









HT Clock speed was not an issue for sure. This was tested on my current Gigabyte board.


----------



## BlackOmega

Hey guys just found this great deal on the Big Typhoon, $9.99.









I made a post about it in the deals section.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
N2Gaming, oh I definitely did









HT Clock speed was not an issue for sure. This was tested on my current Gigabyte board.

Maybe one of these days I'll grow a pair and push my voltage up like that for suicide runs.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Maybe one of these days I'll grow a pair and push my voltage up like that for suicide runs.









N2Gaming, go for it. I mean what's the worse that could happen? Nothing really. These chips are pretty strong. A few minutes of suicide OC'ing won't hurt anything.

I think these two 3000+ chips that I have are just poor OC'ers. Bleh


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hey guys just found this great deal on the Big Typhoon, $9.99.









I made a post about it in the deals section.


Dang, who wants to buy me a Christmas Present









To all those in celebration tomorrow & the day after, I hope you enjoy it. I know I have plenty of last minute things to do, and I'm craming in some gaming too, but I hope you all have wonderful weekends/holidays


----------



## thlnk3r

Merry Xmas Socket 939'ers


----------



## redhat_ownage

i ran linx for 15hr at 310x9
with the ram at 258 2.5-3-2-5 1T
at 315 vcore drops below 1.65V and dies

merry xmas


----------



## allikat

Merry Xmas 939ers.

I just gave my mate a 939 manchester core 4200+ dualie for Xmas, he's a happy bunny








It was a system pull from my old 939 box, which is sitting by my tv looking bored and under used... Any suggestions on what to do with it?
It's a compaq sr1440UK, with an MSI board with the HP/Compaq custom bios, and 1.5 GB of ddr and a single core 3400 in it right now.
The board is definitely not clock friendly with the HP bios, but if I keep that bios, I can use the restore disk to install xp...


----------



## nategr8ns

Thanks Allikat. BTW, is that a zoid? LIGER!!!

Merry Christmas and/or Happy Solstice and/or Happy New Years







.

Unfortunately, nothing exciting has happened with my 939 rig lately. I'm enjoying vacation, however.


----------



## allikat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Thanks Allikat. BTW, is that a zoid? LIGER!!!


Yep, Liger zero from the Fuzors series.









Enjoy the vacations/holidays


----------



## txtmstrjoe

My fellow S939er faithful, I want to wish each and everyone of us a very Merry Christmas (and a belated Happy Hannukah -- my apologies for the lateness of this greeting) and a very Happy Holiday Season!

I'm at work right now (can you believe it?







), and I may not be able to pop on later today, but I just wanted to extend this warmest and most sincere of greetings to everyone.

May the New Year bring us prosperity, good health, some sleep (especially for those of us with children, or will have children), and of course, high overclocks!

And THANKS to everyone for keeping this one of OCN's FINEST Clubs.


----------



## Blitz6804

A Merry Christmas to all! (A belated Happy Hanukkah and a preemptive Joyous Kwanzaa to everyone too.)

For those of you who have 10ppp and are Rush fans, you already know how cool it is that we are on page 2112.


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

2112....good album







omg, page 2112 and you have post 21112 :O


----------



## N2Gaming

Merry Christmas, Happy Hollidays and Happy New Years.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
and thanks to everyone for keeping this one of ocn's finest clubs.









Happy Holidays!!!!!!!!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Happy Holidays everyone. Wish I could be here more often!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Happy Holidays everyone. Wish I could be here more often!


Amen to that, G.O.

I echo you, too.


----------



## Kryton

Merry Christmas and have a Happy New Year guys.

Perhaps the new year to come will mean lots of fun to come - I'm hoping so. I'll go ahead and make a resolution to clock my stuff even higher than before if possible.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *allikat* 
It was a system pull from my old 939 box, which is sitting by my tv looking bored and under used... Any suggestions on what to do with it?
It's a compaq sr1440UK, with an MSI board with the HP/Compaq custom bios, and 1.5 GB of ddr and a single core 3400 in it right now.

Allikat, turn it into a HTPC or a VMHost









Merry Christmas guys...EAT A LOT OF FOODZ!!!


----------



## redhat_ownage

my bh-5 just came in the mail....
i dident know i could get mail on x-mas eve








anyway i will update this post in about 30minutes

update: i got about all i can get out of them with 3.2V i need to build a voltage regulator
since this has a 3.3V jumper i can just take off the jumper and connect my own voltage supply there


----------



## nategr8ns

Chinese food and then Avatar in Imax-3D on Christmas tomorrow.
It's gonna rock!

Merry Christmas [eve] to all.


----------



## redhat_ownage

omg my dfi nf3 just came!!!111


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage*


omg my dfi nf3 just came!!!111


sweetness


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage* 
update: i got about all i can get out of them with 3.2V i need to build a voltage regulator
since this has a 3.3V jumper i can just take off the jumper and connect my own voltage supply there

Readhat, those sub-timings are amazing


----------



## N2Gaming

hey redhat ownage I know about 311 but what is 111?


----------



## redhat_ownage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


hey redhat ownage I know about 311 but what is 111?


i let go of the shift key too early in my hast to put 7 exclamation marks to show my enthusiasm


----------



## N2Gaming

@ redhat, so you got a DFI NF3 huh. Have fun tweeking w/that mobo and good luck, you'll need it LOL


----------



## thlnk3r

Redhat, I forgot to mention...I use to have a Biostar TForce 6100-939 and I noticed in the bios that there was no voltage control for the HT Clock speed. Does the same apply for your board? I was able to get up to 270-280Mhz stable on stock chipset voltage. It was a pretty decent mATX board


----------



## allikat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Allikat, turn it into a HTPC or a VMHost









Merry Christmas guys...EAT A LOT OF FOODZ!!!


Thanks think3r, both great ideas! + r... oh.. you're a mod, I can't +rep you...

Ah well, the thought was there.

Edit 1: Any suggestions on an inexpensive video card with an HDMI port that will cope with running a full HD tv?
Edit 2: Is an ATi 4350 a good choice for that job?


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:


Originally Posted by *allikat* 
Thanks think3r, both great ideas! + r... oh.. you're a mod, I can't +rep you...

Ah well, the thought was there.

Edit 1: Any suggestions on an inexpensive video card with an HDMI port that will cope with running a full HD tv?
Edit 2: Is an ATi 4350 a good choice for that job?

This is cheap with an hdmi.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814161282

Personally I say ATI is usually a better card for A/V purposes, and nvidia is better for gaming. Although it is like I said a personal prefernce.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *allikat*


Thanks think3r, both great ideas! + r... oh.. you're a mod, I can't +rep you...


Yes you can, it just takes some work.

I am curious Thlnk3r, is it permissible for you to be repped? Or are we subject to discipline if we rep mods since the normal way to do it is blocked and a back door is needed. The ToS are completely silent on the issue, as is the professionalism initiative.

Also, the HD 4350 should be an outstanding HDTV card.


----------



## kwint

Quote:


Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage* 
omg my dfi nf3 just came!!!111

Good find. If I'm not mistaken, thats one of the only boards that had nvidia audio opposed to realtek.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Yes you can, it just takes some work.

I am curious Thlnk3r, is it permissible for you to be repped? Or are we subject to discipline if we rep mods since the normal way to do it is blocked and a back door is needed. The ToS are completely silent on the issue, as is the professionalism initiative.

Also, the HD 4350 should be an outstanding HDTV card.


Tsk Tsk Tsk, telling about backdoors!


----------



## redhat_ownage

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Redhat, I forgot to mention...I use to have a Biostar TForce 6100-939 and I noticed in the bios that there was no voltage control for the HT Clock speed. Does the same apply for your board? I was able to get up to 270-280Mhz stable on stock chipset voltage. It was a pretty decent mATX board









no HT voltage adjustment only cpu and ram
there is really no need for adjusment if you keep the ht freq. at or below 1000mhz.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kwint* 
Good find. If I'm not mistaken, thats one of the only boards that had nvidia audio opposed to realtek.

realtek alc850 on this one, maybe earlier revisions had the nvidia sound?


----------



## ny_driver

where can I find the most overclockable steppings of regular athlon 64x2...not the Opterons. Primarily concerned with the 4400+ if anyone has any info. that'd be great. I just ruined my opteron 170 that was running at 3000 mHz...I'm not too happy. I was trying to pry off the IHS to go in and reapply TIM, there is no prying necessary.....it has to be cut off with razorblade.

http://forums.extremeoverclocking.co...d.php?t=178897

LESSON #1...always read first.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


...I was trying to pry off the IHS to go in and reapply TIM...


----------



## ny_driver

one core was running 10c hotter than the other, and was hitting mid 60s under load.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


one core was running 10c hotter than the other, and was hitting mid 60s under load.


Sounds like a reason to de-lid. Just funny the way you said it sounded like you needed to de-lid to reapply tim!









sorry to hear about the Opty death. Moment of silence PLZ.


----------



## ny_driver

thank you. Where can I find a list of overclockable stepping like that list for the opterons, but for the 4400+?

here is a picture of the deceased in case you want to look......http://img682.imageshack.us/img682/4150/1226091748.jpg notice the little white speck in the black part under the adhesive. that's the fatal wound I believe.


----------



## BlackOmega

O dang, sorry to hear that NY driver. Can you take a better picture of it? Make sure you use the macro setting (the little flower icon).


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Moment of silence PLZ.

What's that, do I hear military trumpets.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *allikat* 
Edit 1: Any suggestions on an inexpensive video card with an HDMI port that will cope with running a full HD tv?
Edit 2: Is an ATi 4350 a good choice for that job?

Allikat, the 4350 would be perfect for this. I was about to build a HTPC with this card but the means for justification weren't there yet.

Check out the Asus 4350, I believe it's the cheapest 4350 on Newegg at the moment: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-310-_-Product.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I am curious Thlnk3r, is it permissible for you to be repped? Or are we subject to discipline if we rep mods since the normal way to do it is blocked and a back door is needed. The ToS are completely silent on the issue, as is the professionalism initiative.

Blitz, I don't think it really matters if you can or can't rep us. We are to provide assistance so either way we're being helpful. I do however miss being repped when I was a normal user haha









Quote:


Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage* 
no HT voltage adjustment only cpu and ram
there is really no need for adjusment if you keep the ht freq. at or below 1000mhz.

Redhat, I was referring to the HT Clock speed and chipset voltage not the HT Link speed (ie. Hypertransport). Well at least I know my Biostar wasn't the only one hehe

Good luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey guys. Just figured you might want to know about a few NF4 DFI Lanparty series mobo's on Ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290385141279&ssPageNam e=ADME:B:SS:US:1123

&

SLI DR . This expert looks like the owner don't know what he/she actually has.

These are not mine and I know to post my for sale items in the for sale section. I just figured I would let my 939 peeps know about these first.

n2g


----------



## SpykeZ

damn, I forgot all about DFI, how are their customer support crew? might try a DFI on tje new AM3 build if their boards are good.

I stopped using asus cause I got tired of the crap hit or miss quality of their boards. Gigabyte has been amazing to use, never an issue. So how does DFI compare?


----------



## RocGotSol

I attached a pic from CPU-Z

My first attempts at overclocking this morning.

I was able to be stable at 2.83GHz

anyone out there got any pointers?


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 
damn, I forgot all about DFI, how are their customer support crew? might try a DFI on tje new AM3 build if their boards are good.

I stopped using asus cause I got tired of the crap hit or miss quality of their boards. Gigabyte has been amazing to use, never an issue. So how does DFI compare?

I used a DFI motherboard for one of my friend's 775 builds a little while ago. He has not had a single problem in about a year. It's crazy! I'm jealous of the reliability







. It's either a P35 or a P45.
I think for AM3, biostar and gigabyte sort of took over though.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
notice the little white speck in the black part under the adhesive. that's the fatal wound I believe.

Can you give us a zoomed in pic of the trashed traces on the pcb?


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Can you give us a zoomed in pic of the trashed traces on the pcb?

Sounds like you and BlackOmega think there may be hope. I don't have a good camera for close up on my phone. I'll see what I can do.


----------



## Blitz6804

What I did/do is place the chip on a scanner and fire her up. No better way to get the spreader info in any event.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Hey guys. Just figured you might want to know about a few NF4 DFI Lanparty series mobo's on Ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...E:B:SS:US:1123

N2G

Lol, this guy doesn't know very much or was drunk when typing.

Quote:

And also i will include for free a *XFI* HD 4670 1GB *SDDR3* vid card
It's not only a video card but an awesome soundcard to boot.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 
damn, I forgot all about DFI, how are their customer support crew? might try a DFI on tje new AM3 build if their boards are good.

I stopped using asus cause I got tired of the crap hit or miss quality of their boards. Gigabyte has been amazing to use, never an issue. So how does DFI compare?

I was going to go with DFI for my AM3 build but after discussing it with several people that have the DK version of the board it seems that the BIOS is not really overclocker friendly like their 939 boards (which happen to be the best for OCing a 939).

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RocGotSol* 
I attached a pic from CPU-Z

My first attempts at overclocking this morning.

I was able to be stable at 2.83GHz

anyone out there got any pointers?

Which cooler are you using and what kind of temps are you seeing @ 2.83?

If you don't have it already, use Coretemp to monitor your temps. It's more accurate than the software that came with your board.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
Sounds like you and BlackOmega think there may be hope. I don't have a good camera for close up on my phone. I'll see what I can do.









Depends on what was damaged. That picture is too blurry to see what is exactly damaged.
And yes there was a guy that repaired his CPU after damaging the chip.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
I used a DFI motherboard for one of my friend's 775 builds a little while ago. He has not had a single problem in about a year. It's crazy! I'm jealous of the reliability







. It's either a P35 or a P45.
I think for AM3, *MSI* and gigabyte sort of took over though.

Fixed for ya.







I haven't seen too many people with Biostar AM3 boards. I see MSI more often. And quite honestly I'm really happy with mine. Their BIOS is very robust with LOTS of overclocking features. The only thing that I wish that it had was more memory dividers. Other than that I'm very happy with it.

A little update on my stuff, I just added one of my GSO's to my sig rig for PhysX.







I even managed to find a crack so I can use the latest driver (195.62). Batman looks perty







Now I'm going to have to re-install all of my games that utilize it.









One kind of odd thing, it didn't seem to change my 3dm06 score at all. Isn't it supposed to? Or is that just in vantage?


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Depends on what was damaged. That picture is too blurry to see what is exactly damaged.
And yes there was a guy that repaired his CPU after damaging the chip.

That's good to hear. I'm working on the better picture thing. I don't have a scanner or a good camera. Maybe tomorrow I'll be able to figure something out. It'd be great if someone could actually repair it for me.

EDIT: I have a circuit writer conductive pen and a magnifying glass, but I don't want to mess it up worse.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
*thank you. Where can I find a list of overclockable stepping like that list for the opterons, but for the 4400+?*

here is a picture of the deceased in case you want to look......http://img682.imageshack.us/img682/4150/1226091748.jpg notice the little white speck in the black part under the adhesive. that's the fatal wound I believe.

ny_driver, since the Toledo chips (like your X2 4400+ and the X2 4800+) and the Denmark Opterons (dual-core Opterons) share the same specs as well as share the same stepping codes, I've long deduced that they are essentially identical except for the name they leave the factory with. Proof of this? I've personally owned both Opterons and Athlon64 X2 4400+s with the same stepping batch codes (CCBWE as well as LCB9E).

Therefore, you can reasonably expect the same rules apply to both Athlon64 X2 Toledo chips and the dual-core Denmark Opterons.









Hope this helps.


----------



## ny_driver

so the 4400+ is basicly the exact same chip as the Opty 175 @ 2.2gHz.


----------



## kwint

You're pretty much gonna wanna get the toledo core. I have a manchester and this thing doesn't really like overclocking. I'm trying to push it tho...


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
so the 4400+ is basicly the exact same chip as the Opty 175 @ 2.2gHz.

That would be correct.
I have both, an X2 4200 and a few Optys with similar/same steppings. If you browse around, you'll see folks with chips that have identical steppings between the X2 Toledo cores, Opterons and San Diego cored chips. It's also been said the San Diego chips are nothing more than X2 chips with a dead/disabled core. All of these seem to be based on the same core type even though the core name is different, probrably as a designation towards it's intended stock useage and whether it's setup as a single core chip.

Simply put, X2 is a DC desktop chip, Opteron is a DC server chip and the San Diego is a single core desktop chip.


----------



## ny_driver

so is the other 4400+ the toledo core, or are just opterons toledo core?? EDIT: what is difference between the 2 different 4400+'s? EDIT: I get it...the 4400+ is toledo core and the 4200+ is manchester right?


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
so is the other 4400+ the toledo core, or are just opterons toledo core??

Most Optys are called "Denmark" and believe that's related to it's designation as a server chip from the factory. I've seen a few along the way with "Toledo" in the core name via CPU-Z screenshots so it's a good bet they are indeed the same basic chip. Only real difference I've noted is the wattage they are rated at, the Opty at 110W vs the X2 at 89W. The X2 tends to run cooler as a result of this.


----------



## Blitz6804

The 4400+ comes in both 110 W and 89 W version. As Kryton said, the 89 W version tends to run a little cooler. Furthermore, the 89 W version has a higher thermal limit, that is, 71Âº C instead of 65Âº C.


----------



## ny_driver

buying a 4400+ used I have no way to tell what I am going to get. I think I may just stick with the Opteron seeing how they are basically the same and the Optys were hand picked as reliable for server use, according to what I read in this review. http://forums.legitreviews.com/about11064.html


----------



## Blitz6804

An ADV4400 is the 89 W version, the ADA4400 is the 110 W version. Provided it is not lapped, it would be really easy to tell which is which.


----------



## redhat_ownage

i killed my dfi 250gb








flashed an untested bios
i need a floppy now


----------



## RocGotSol

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Which cooler are you using and what kind of temps are you seeing @ 2.83?

If you don't have it already, use Coretemp to monitor your temps. It's more accurate than the software that came with your board.


I went out and bought some thermal paste and a Zalman CNPS7500.
I uploaded a pic of my settings. I spent the whole night messing with the multiplier and the FSB. Seems to be very touchy. Hopefully new thermal paste and a better heatsink will do me good.

I also uploaded pics of my old heatsink as well as my new one.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RocGotSol*


I attached a pic from CPU-Z

My first attempts at overclocking this morning.

I was able to be stable at 2.83GHz

anyone out there got any pointers?


RocGotSol, looks great! I bet that unlocked multiplier helps out a lot









I updated the roster with your name and entry. Do you have plans on pushing this puppy a bit further? I noticed your HT Link speed was slightly overclocked. No real biggie but it may cause issues in the future if you decide to increase the reference clock speed. This can easily be fixed by just adjusting the HT Link multiplier.

Good luck


----------



## RocGotSol

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
RocGotSol, looks great! I bet that unlocked multiplier helps out a lot









I updated the roster with your name and entry. Do you have plans on pushing this puppy a bit further? I noticed your HT Link speed was slightly overclocked. No real biggie but it may cause issues in the future if you decide to increase the reference clock speed. This can easily be fixed by just adjusting the HT Link multiplier.

Good luck

I would like to push this thing a bit further. I know i have an okay setup and I really don't wanna upgrade my computer. I'm not a heavy gamer anymore but still like to play when i have time.

Honestly bro I couldn't tell ya what it is I'm doing. I got this far by reading and process of elimination last night/this morning.

As far as processor adjustments go, i got...

CPU FSB Clock
Multiplier
PCIe Clock
CPU Core Voltage

I haven't really messed with anything else. I'd like to try for 3.0Ghz but i don't really know what I'm doing. care to help?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RocGotSol* 

Honestly bro I couldn't tell ya what it is I'm doing. I got this far by reading and process of elimination last night/this morning.

As far as processor adjustments go, i got...

CPU FSB Clock
Multiplier
PCIe Clock
CPU Core Voltage

I haven't really messed with anything else. I'd like to try for 3.0Ghz but i don't really know what I'm doing. care to help?

RocGotSol, process of elimination is actually the right way to approach this. Finding the limits of each component (cpu, memory and chipset) is the way to go. This helps establish a baseline. For the HT Link multiplier you can simply just drop the multi to 4x. That will bring you below stock (1000Mhz). Overclocking this component can sometimes cause stability issues which is why I suggest that you decrease it. If you decide to overclock the processor some more via cpu multiplier then it will not increase HT Link speed.

What guides have you already reviewed? For socket 939 I commonly suggest this one and this one (follows AM2 but the concepts are very similar).

Good luck


----------



## RocGotSol

Thanks for the links. I stumbled upon the 2nd link sometime this morning but it's all hazy, lol I was up too long and not sober by the morning









right now my HT is X5, I'll go ahead and lower it to 4X.

This new heatsink really makes a huge difference.
It seems way smoother now. I'm gonna tweak again and post some updates.


----------



## RocGotSol

FSB 210, 14x, 1.43V







so far it's running


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage*


i killed my dfi 250gb








flashed an untested bios
i need a floppy now


If you've borked the MB's BIOS, a floppy won't help. Only way to fix that is to do a "Hotflash" of the BIOS chip with another machine like it and hope for the best. You can though order a BIOS chip from the manufacturer or find the guy that actually sells these pre-flashed. The guy's site is is Bios depot and if you can find his site, you can order one from him. If I can find the link, I'll post it up. There is a listing for his site on E-bay if that helps.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage*


i killed my dfi 250gb








flashed an untested bios
i need a floppy now


http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=263602_263622


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=263602_263622


That's the guy Hue.








+1 for that info and thanks for the help.

I had to order one from him before so I can vouch for what he does. Saved my hide when my Soyo had a BIOS problem.


----------



## redhat_ownage

it took my about 4 hours to figure out i can boot it with the bios chip from my broken abit nf3 board hahaha
poped it in flashed it, swapped in the original and flashed again. now i have a spare chip


----------



## ny_driver

I just bought an 89w 4400+Toledo(ADV4400DAA6CD) for $75+$6 shipping.
http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/K8/AMD...0CDBOX%29.html
It probably won't compare with the Opty I killed.............although theoretically it should. I'm trying to get them to let me choose a particular stepping seeing how they have 20+ of them. I'm still going to get a proper photo of the damage to the Opty, because it would be real nice to fix it or get it fixed.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
I just bought an 89w 4400+Toledo(ADV4400DAA6CD) for $75+$6 shipping.
http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/K8/AMD...0CDBOX%29.html
It probably won't compare with the Opty I killed.............although theoretically it should. I'm trying to get them to let me choose a particular stepping seeing how they have 20+ of them. I'm still going to get a proper photo of the damage to the Opty, because it would be real nice to fix it or get it fixed.









It should be just as good.....technically speaking.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Lol, this guy doesn't know very much or was drunk when typing. It's not only a video card but an awesome soundcard to boot.









That would be a sweet deal if it came w/an XFI as well but I think you may be onto something w/the seller either being drunk or not knowing what he is doing or is trying to be tricky and decieving at the same time. I'll explain my theory on this. The video card is an XFX video card and the seller mentions only what you see in the picture comes w/the sell. There only appears to be a XFX video card and not any Creative Labs Sound Blaster Xfi sound card. The seller mentions not knowing if the mobo is any good and mentions to what would appear to be the video card is known to not be any good but that the buyer may be able to fix the video card. However this is not clear enough for proper translation as to what is specifically for sale or if the mobo is really dead or the video card is really dead. In any case it may just be a simple little diagnostic process to get the mobo working or maybe the mobo really is dead. either way for a couple of bucks I'd be willing to try it out if I did not already have a few 939 mobo's atm.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I just bought an 89w 4400+Toledo(ADV4400DAA6CD) . . .
It probably won't compare with the Opty I killed.............although theoretically it should.


My LCBIE 0638 did 2802 MHz (11x 255) at 1.380 V ("Auto" in the BIOS) with 4 GB of RAM running at DDR-400. While I was capable of getting it up to 3.0 GHz, I did not like the voltage needed (1.45 V or so?) and I was able to get a validation as high as 3109 MHz. Joe, Thlnk3r, and Pioneer have also all had luck with LCB*E processors.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I just bought an 89w 4400+Toledo(ADV4400DAA6CD) for $75+$6 shipping. 
http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/K8/AMD...0CDBOX%29.html
It probably won't compare with the Opty I killed.............although theoretically it should. I'm trying to get them to let me choose a particular stepping seeing how they have 20+ of them. I'm still going to get a proper photo of the damage to the Opty, because it would be real nice to fix it or get it fixed.










Ny_driver, I have a feeling you won't even notice a difference. Let us know when the chip arrives and it's up and running. Include the full stepping (everything).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Joe, Thlnk3r, and Pioneer have also all had luck with LCB*E processors.


Blitz, you know I really wish I wrote down the info on the IHS. I'm really curious to know if it was a good cut. It easily did 3Ghz on stock voltage. Untested was 3.2 at 1.475 volts









Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Thlnk3r: Joe has the CPU and the IHS, I can see if its handy for him to copy it down.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Ny_driver, I have a feeling you won't even notice a difference. Let us know when the chip arrives and it's up and running. Include the full stepping (everything).Good luck

My Opteron 170 was CCB1E 0609 FPAW and it did 3003 MHz (300x10) no problem right out of the box. The one core was hitting mid 60s though, so I tried to make it better.







<----idiot! I will definitely let you guys know how good my 4400+ is.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
My Opteron 170 was CCB1E 0609 FPAW and it did 3003 MHz (300x10) no problem right out of the box. The one core was hitting mid 60s though, so I tried to make it better.







<----idiot! I will definitely let you guys know how good my 4400+ is.

Ny_driver, did you save the rest of the info?

EDIT: I'm referring to the letters/numbers ect


----------



## ny_driver

OSA170DAA6CD
CCB1E 0609FPAW
1429568C60198
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=912323

yeah, I've got the chip right here.







I'm hoping someone thinks they can fix it.

EDIT: if it can't be fixed I'm going to get it stuffed and mounted


----------



## kwint

I would think that the extra meg of L2 cache would make a difference.

I think my mobo is messed up because All the fans just run at 100 percent. Current cpu fan speed is like 6k rpm and its loud. Unless having a dead bios battery would cause that. Eh, its messed up in general. Bios reports the cpu at like -2 degrees to 5 degrees.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kwint* 
I would think that the extra meg of L2 cache would make a difference.

Kwint, both processors (4400+ X2 and Opteron 170) have 1MB L2 cache per core


----------



## GOTFrog

Wow s939 was my 1st build ever and 1st OC ever, sucks that lightning melted it


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


The one core was hitting mid 60s though, so I tried to make it better.







<----idiot!


Not really.

Trying to make the temps equal across the cores isn't a bad thing to try since one core was going above 60c as you pointed out. This was a problem with some 165's and 170's and my 165 had the same basic problem. I also popped the top on it and solved the temp problems it had but also think I may have hurt it but it still works.

If it's running hot, you've nothing to lose anyway since the chip won't last too long with temps going so high.


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


HothBase: Not if you already have the HD 5770 I wouldn't. I think it best just to use the 939 for now just to play it safe.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


HothBase, the VX450 has plenty of juice to power your rig. It has 33 amps total on the 12 volt rail which is plenty for a ATI 5770. These 57x0 cards consume less power then the older 48x0 series. Wattage wise you are well within the limits of the PSU.


Thanks for the replies, but I didn't even get a chance to try before I got my TX650W anyway.









My AM3 is finally up and running now, yay. Been playing around with it for a couple of hours now, poking around in the BIOS I thought that it doesn't at all seem as complicated as I had feared it would be, going from an old 939 to all this new tech.









At the moment I'm playing with the CPU, so far all I have done is unlocked the 4th core, OCCT is running in the background while I'm writing this. 1h+ and no errorrs so far @1.350VCore. Hopefully it will be stable, the default 1.325V failed OCCT pretty much instantly in X4 mode.


----------



## Blitz6804

Sounds about right Hothbase. The default for my X4 940 is 1.350 V.


----------



## godofdeath

what is a highest temperature a gfx gpu should be at?
I get 89C and 66C on hardware monitor when I use my gfx for [email protected]


----------



## kwint

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Kwint, both processors (4400+ X2 and Opteron 170) have 1MB L2 cache per core










=[ I never knew that. I thought all 939 x2's only had 1 mb.

Oh well, I'm gonna be going am2+ whenever funds come in. Local mom and pop pc shops can test motherboards correct? I don't wanna invest money in this abit board and end up it being dead.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Not really.

Trying to make the temps equal across the cores isn't a bad thing to try since one core was going above 60c as you pointed out. This was a problem with some 165's and 170's and my 165 had the same basic problem. I also popped the top on it and solved the temp problems it had but also think I may have hurt it but it still works.

If it's running hot, you've nothing to lose anyway since the chip won't last too long with temps going so high.


well....I did have it overclocked 1000 MHz when it was hitting 65 and the other core was a very acceptable 50-55, and I hadn't really done that much testing with it. I definitely didn't do enough research into removing the IHS is why I feel so stupid. Normally I'm not that stupid, and it's so easy to remove the IHS when you do it right. Thanks for trying to make me feel better though.







Maybe it can even be fixed. I need to take some high quality close up pics of it.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kwint*


=[ I never knew that. I thought all 939 x2's only had 1 mb.


Kwint, not all of them do. The Manchester 4400+ X2 only has 2x512KB L2 cache. Check out cpu-world.com if you're curious. Very helpful website containing data on most of the processors: http://www.cpu-world.com/cgi-bin/Sea...earch&TYPE=CPU.

Good luck


----------



## ny_driver

the Opteron 170 lives!!!!!!!!








I took one stick of ram out and tried again, and voila. I read the beep codes, but I counted out certain possibilities because everything worked fine before the operation, and after also with the 3700+ in there. Computers are strange sometimes









Now I have an extra chip to play with, I love wasting money.


----------



## Hueristic

Hey is anyone bidding on those links N2 posted?

I don't want to get in a bidding war with any members here.

Looks like the plasterer may have destroyed my new board that was on my bench. So I'm gonna try to grab one of these just in case I can't get it back.







Damn monkey trashed my place doing the ceiling.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage*


it took my about 4 hours to figure out i can boot it with the bios chip from my broken abit nf3 board hahaha
poped it in flashed it, swapped in the original and flashed again. now i have a spare chip



Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


the Opteron 170 lives!!!!!!!!








I took one stick of ram out and tried again, and voila. I read the beep codes, but I counted out certain possibilities because everything worked fine before the operation, and after also with the 3700+ in there. Computers are strange sometimes









Now I have an extra chip to play with, I love wasting money.






































:applau d:


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


the Opteron 170 lives!!!!!!!!








I took one stick of ram out and tried again, and voila. I read the beep codes, but I counted out certain possibilities because everything worked fine before the operation, and after also with the 3700+ in there. Computers are strange sometimes










Ny_driver, that is kind of strange. So with previous attempts you were running (2) sticks of memory (dual-channel) and it was not POSTing? Perhaps may be the processor wasn't fully seated after you re-installed after the delidding









Well either way great job!


----------



## ny_driver

Now the Opty will not boot with 2 sticks of RAM, I even tried a different pair. The RAM is all memtested, and works perfectly with the 3700+, and it worked perfectly with the Opty before the operation. 1 stick it boots right up(that's what I'm using now). Any ideas why it's acting this way?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Now the Opty will not boot with 2 sticks of RAM, I even tried a different pair. The RAM is all memtested, and works perfectly with the 3700+, and it worked perfectly with the Opty before the operation. 1 stick it boots right up(that's what I'm using now). Any ideas why it's acting this way?










Ny_driver, for testing purposes have you tried a different motherboard?

I'm assuming you cleared the CMOS on the board you are testing with now?


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Now the Opty will not boot with 2 sticks of RAM, I even tried a different pair. The RAM is all memtested, and works perfectly with the 3700+, and it worked perfectly with the Opty before the operation. 1 stick it boots right up(that's what I'm using now). Any ideas why it's acting this way?










The only thing I can think of would be the memory controller... Maybe its not stable or fast enough to handle more than one stick. I wish I knew more about how MCs worked...
Have you tried two sticks in single-channel mode? Do you have a third stick you can test with (all three at once, to see if the MC can handle more DIMMs)?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HothBase*


Thanks for the replies, but I didn't even get a chance to try before I got my TX650W anyway.









My AM3 is finally up and running now, yay. Been playing around with it for a couple of hours now, poking around in the BIOS I thought that it doesn't at all seem as complicated as I had feared it would be, going from an old 939 to all this new tech.









At the moment I'm playing with the CPU, so far all I have done is unlocked the 4th core, OCCT is running in the background while I'm writing this. 1h+ and no errorrs so far @1.350VCore. Hopefully it will be stable, the default 1.325V failed OCCT pretty much instantly in X4 mode.


 Very nice Hoth.







. If you need/want any help, feel free to ask. Remember it's crucial to be very thorough with your memory/CPU-NB testing.

But after thinking about helping you, I'm going to try and unlock my 4th core again using some different voltage options/settings.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Now the Opty will not boot with 2 sticks of RAM, I even tried a different pair. The RAM is all memtested, and works perfectly with the 3700+, and it worked perfectly with the Opty before the operation. 1 stick it boots right up(that's what I'm using now). Any ideas why it's acting this way?










 Hmmm.....perhaps you knicked one of the "legs" on one of the resistors that are around the core. You'll more than likely need a magnifying glass to see any damage.
You might want to check to see if it works with 2 sticks in single channel mode. That might give a little bit more insight as to what's damaged.


----------



## Hueristic

he may have took out a trace that's needed for dual channel.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
he may have took out a trace that's needed for dual channel.

Hueristic, a trace on the "die" or on the wafer?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage* 
it took my about 4 hours to figure out i can boot it with the bios chip from my broken abit nf3 board hahaha
poped it in flashed it, swapped in the original and flashed again. now i have a spare chip


Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Hueristic, a trace on the "die" or on the wafer?

wafer.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...torefresh=true

*I Win!!!!*




































:applaud :










































: thumb:




















































































: wheee:


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
wafer.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...torefresh=true

*I Win!!!!*




































:applaud :










































: thumb:




















































































: wheee:






























Dude $87.06







Good job Hue...







I,m glad one of us 939ers were able to capitolize on an awesome deal. Now lets see how good it works for your overclocking !


----------



## ny_driver

it's working in single channel now with 2 sticks. I'm sure I didn't nick any or the legs of the resistors. the only place I caused any damage was right along the edge under the adhesive, like I showed you in the picture.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
it's working in single channel now with 2 sticks. I'm sure I didn't nick any or the legs of the resistors. the only place I caused any damage was right along the edge under the adhesive, like I showed you in the picture.

We *Really* need a zoomed in picture of that damage


----------



## ny_driver

I have no way to take a better picture...maybe I could scan it, but I don't even have a scanner. I'll figure something out.







EDIT: I'll be back in a little while.
Re-EDIT: I don't know where the heck I'm going to get a zoomed in picture. You really need to look at it with a magnifying glass to see.

Re-Re EDIT: $5 to scan it at Hayes Office Supplies...I'm going to go do it. Should have a good close up in a couple hours.


----------



## nategr8ns

No Macro setting on a digital camera?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


it's working in single channel now with 2 sticks. I'm sure I didn't nick any or the legs of the resistors. the only place I caused any damage was right along the edge under the adhesive, like I showed you in the picture.


Ny_driver, have you tried a different board yet just so we can rule out the existing one?


----------



## ny_driver

I just have the camera on my phone...it's an LG NV3, I haven't even opened the manual. I didn't see any settings in the phone menu like that. I'll look in the book right now.

I don't see how it could be the board when it worked fine before I operated on the Opty, and it works fine in dual channel with my 3700+ in there. I was using it this morning.

EDIT: my camera does have zoom, but it's pretty pitiful.

re_EDIT: I'm going to take the Opty out and try it downstairs, then I'm going to try taking a zoomed in picture.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
wafer.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...torefresh=true

*I Win!!!!*




































:applaud :










































: thumb:




















































































: wheee:






























WOW! WHAT A SMOKIN DEAL!!!!!! SLI-DR + opty 165+Ballistix for $87!!!!!!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
it's working in single channel now with 2 sticks. I'm sure I didn't nick any or the legs of the resistors. the only place I caused any damage was right along the edge under the adhesive, like I showed you in the picture.

You must've nicked a trace on there that controls dual channel. And yeah we definitely need a pic so we can see if it's repairable. Although, you could just run it in single channel and be just fine. Would be a perfect chip for a folding rig.


----------



## nategr8ns

Dayuuum Hue, I didn't realize that it was a bundle! Congrats on a good buy!


----------



## ny_driver

I tried it on the other rig with the same results. Only runs in single channel. I'm going to try cleaning it up and taking some pics now.
EDIT: you can't see jack with a magnifying glass even, much less my pitiful camera. I doubt if a scanner is going to magically make it easy to see. I don't know how someone would go about attempting a repair (a microscope maybe). Anyone wants to give it a shot let me know and I'll mail it out.

What do you guys think about filling in the little scratch with a circuit writer pen, then cover it up so it doesn't short to the IHS.


----------



## nategr8ns

A circuit writer pen will just bridge a whole bunch of circuits. Especially if its as small as you say. Better not to do that.


----------



## ny_driver

I kinda figured that, so I did not try it. Wish I had a microscope.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I kinda figured that, so I did not try it. Wish I had a microscope.


 Yeah don't bridge any connections. As for a microscope, you can probably buy some cheap toy type microscope. Like this one at toys r us for $20.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I kinda figured that, so I did not try it. Wish I had a microscope.


Ny_driver, the fact that we know the processor doesn't run in dual-channel mode doesn't necessarily mean the "circuitry" was damaged for that particular function. To be honest we can't be for sure. At this point we're just guessing though it does sound like the processor may have been damaged during the delidding process. Have you tried single-channel mode and running a few stress tests?

Good luck


----------



## ny_driver

I'd really rather send it to someone that might actually know what they were looking at, and how to repair it. I doubt if I have much chance at repairing it myself.

From what I've read, the performance difference between single and dual channel is minimal. However when I stick 2 double sided RAm sticks in there in single channel mode(which is DIMMs 1&3) it defaults to 166MHz and 2-2-2-7-2T. I tried making some RAM timing adjustments to 3-3-3-6-1T, and OC ing , and it gave me the continuous beep like I had the RAM in wrong. So I tried only changing the memory to 1T and it wouldn't POST, it just beeped. If I leave it at 166/2-2-2-7-2T it runs fine, but I don't think I could OC it very far. I only messed around with it for a few minutes then took it downstairs to test it on the AV8. I put the 3700+ back in this system and my AS5 supply is pretty low. I do have some cheap Radio Shack silicone based stuff I could use when testing...but installing the AC ferezer 64 pro is getting to be tiresome, it's a tight squeeze with the layout of this board.

Anyways, who thinks they may be able to fix it?
I may have pictures later...I have a camera with no batteries, so I went and bought a universal AC adapter instead of batteries and it didn't work. Batteries are on the way, I hope they work.






















EDIT: I didn't try any stress tests.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
EDIT: I didn't try any stress tests.

Ny_driver, I'd be curious to see if it ran stable under Prime95 at stock settings. If all is well then perhaps the processor is fine and it's just a coincidence that it's not able to run in dual-channel mode? I'm assuming you tried different memory?

Good luck


----------



## HenvY

:O people still running 939s. I actually tried to install my old k8n neo4 and 3200+ today but the case I was gonna put it in was micro atx so a no go. it's a shame, I loved my trusty 3200+


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Ny_driver, I'd be curious to see if it ran stable under Prime95 at stock settings. If all is well then perhaps the processor is fine and it's just a coincidence that it's not able to run in dual-channel mode? I'm assuming you tried different memory?

Good luck

coincidence? I don't follow. it ran dual channel mode fine before the operation.
and yes I did try different memory.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
coincidence? I don't follow. it ran dual channel mode fine before the operation.
and yes I did try different memory.

Ny_driver, was everything completely stock when it ran in dual-channel mode or was the bios tweaked with particular sub-timings, voltages ect ect? I'm speaking in terms of BEFORE you delidded the processor.

Sorry if I cause any confusion, just trying to assist.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

ny_driver, I think the problem here is one of methodology. It's a classic example of trying settings semi-haphazardly on an OC without going step-by-step; now it's impossible to tell which setting is adversely affecting the OC.

I'd go back to basics and work on your RAM starting from scratch (as well as down-clocking your CPU and HT Bus Freq, to take them out of the equation), with default clocks and timings. You change only one setting at a time, then test for stability (using whatever method suits you). This way may be pathetically slow, but it's guaranteed that if you run into a problem, you'll know exactly which setting threw the whole thing off the rails.









Good luck.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Ny_driver, was everything completely stock when it ran in dual-channel mode or was the bios tweaked with particular sub-timings, voltages ect ect? I'm speaking in terms of BEFORE you delidded the processor.

Sorry if I cause any confusion, just trying to assist.

Thank you, no problem at all. I do greatly appreciate the assistance!
It ran fine completely stock with no timing adjustments( I reset the CMOS upon installation), then I overclocked it and the memory to see what it would do. It did well but one core got too hot(65c) running at 3000 MHz.

I'm glad to answer any other questions you may have.








EDIT: I raced with it OC'd to 3000 MHz for awhile...that is one of my main stress testing methods.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
What do you guys think about filling in the little scratch with a circuit writer pen, then cover it up so it doesn't short to the IHS.

nonononono


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
ny_driver, I think the problem here is one of methodology. It's a classic example of trying settings semi-haphazardly on an OC without going step-by-step; now it's impossible to tell which setting is adversely affecting the OC.

I'd go back to basics and work on your RAM starting from scratch (as well as down-clocking your CPU and HT Bus Freq, to take them out of the equation), with default clocks and timings. You change only one setting at a time, then test for stability (using whatever method suits you). This way may be pathetically slow, but it's guaranteed that if you run into a problem, you'll know exactly which setting threw the whole thing off the rails.









Good luck.

you are correct, that is what I did when I tried OCing the Opty with single channel RAM. Normally I do it a little at a time (10 MHz FSB at a pop)


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Hey guys. Just figured you might want to know about a few NF4 DFI Lanparty series mobo's on Ebay.

SLI DR . This expert looks like the owner don't know what he/she actually has.

These are not mine and I know to post my for sale items in the for sale section. I just figured I would let my 939 peeps know about these first.

n2g

+rep for you my friend!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


+rep for you my friend!


Thanks Bro







I hope you enjoy your new hardware.


----------



## redhat_ownage

i cant get my athlon 3000 to boot in this dfi board with the newest bios








should i buy a mobile 3000 s754 for $17 and try that?

BTW!!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hey guys. Just figured you might want to know about a few NF4 DFI Lanparty series mobo's on Ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290385141279&ssPageNam e=ADME:B:SS:US:1123

n2g


anyone bidding on that?????
i want

edit: i ordered a ML-34


----------



## BlackOmega

Ny_driver, as the others have said, take everything back to stock and start over. Yes it sucks and it's a pain in the butt, but you've got to start somewhere. As Joe suggested, starting with the memory wouldn't be a bad idea since that is where your problem lies. Personally, I'd start with just 1 stick in, test it, OC it and see how it does. Then put everything back to stock and put 2 sticks in, make sure they're underclocked. Make sure your timings are on auto and it's 2T CR.
Each step you OC, it would be ideal to stress test. I use S&M v1.9.1 to test the CPU, memtest for RAM and Prime95 to test both working together. All of these can be found in the first post of this thread.
As for using a game to test stability, only if you've run those other 3 tests first. What can wind up happening is that you corrupt the game itself.
As for how long to test, for each "step" I try to run prime95 for at least 10-15 minutes. Then once I get to an overclock I try to keep, I prime it for a minimum of 16 hours.

Good Luck


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey guys " BO/Joe " here is a guy looking for a DFI CFX3200


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Ny_driver, as the others have said, take everything back to stock and start over. Yes it sucks and it's a pain in the butt, but you've got to start somewhere. As Joe suggested, starting with the memory wouldn't be a bad idea since that is where your problem lies. Personally, I'd start with just 1 stick in, test it, OC it and see how it does. Then put everything back to stock and put 2 sticks in, make sure they're underclocked. Make sure your timings are on auto and it's 2T CR. 
Each step you OC, it would be ideal to stress test. I use S&M v1.9.1 to test the CPU, memtest for RAM and Prime95 to test both working together. All of these can be found in the first post of this thread. 
As for using a game to test stability, only if you've run those other 3 tests first. What can wind up happening is that you corrupt the game itself. 
As for how long to test, for each "step" I try to run prime95 for at least 10-15 minutes. Then once I get to an overclock I try to keep, I prime it for a minimum of 16 hours.

Good Luck










You mean for me to do all this in single channel mode right? because the chip won't allow dual channel.....remember I tried it in another mobo with different memory. 
I will probably do that tomorrow, but I already bought a new chip (89w 4400+ toledo) so I'm not really that concerned with overclocking the Opty now that it's partially broken. I am, however, concerned with possibly getting the Opty repaired. I'm sure it will still run a system nicely on only single channel memory, but I need to test it and make sure that it's not damaged worse than I think, before I do anything else I guess.

and on a side note...I believe I did corrupt my GTLegends installation testing with it, because my cars now no longer have a tachometer needle. I was wondering about that.







Thanks for the tip.

EDIT: dang it I just ran S&M on my [email protected] 2.75 GHz and failed. I'm not sure why, I know it's not from getting too hot(44c)....I ran prime for 5 hours the other night @ 2.86 GHz with no errors. It runs flawlessly at 2.75 GHz..... hmmmmmm??


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


and on a side note...I believe I did corrupt my GTLegends installation testing with it, because my cars now no longer have a tachometer needle. I was wondering about that.







Thanks for the tip.

EDIT: dang it I just ran S&M on my [email protected] 2.75 GHz and failed. I'm not sure why, I know it's not from getting too hot(44c)....I ran prime for 5 hours the other night @ 2.86 GHz with no errors. It runs flawlessly at 2.75 GHz..... hmmmmmm??


 Which test did it fail? Usually if it fails the L1 cache test, you need more voltage. If it fails L2 cache or FPU, it's usually because of temps. BTW, the FPU test WILL get it the hottest, be sure to keep aclose eye on temps.

__________________________________________________ _______________

A little 939 update of my own. So I finally gotaround to testing my opty after the power failure. The board that it was on , at stock speeds, it would fail prime after 51 mins. Come ot find out that, that damn Hyper X RAM is causing instability. Because the reference clock doesn't stay constant, it usually fluctuates upwards ~1 MHz, causes the RAM to destabilize. :swearing: That damn RAM.
At any rate, I swapped the board and RAM out for the other Ultra-D. Passed 3 hours of Prime @ stock, now I'm testing it @ 2640 @ 1.344v. So far it's 1/2 an hour stable at this speed/voltage. I think I might see how high she'll really go, stabily. 
I'll also post up a mini CPU cooler comparison when I get back from the store.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Which test did it fail? Usually if it fails the L1 cache test, you need more voltage. If it fails L2 cache or FPU, it's usually because of temps. BTW, the FPU test WILL get it the hottest, be sure to keep aclose eye on temps.


yes it fails L1. what I don't understand is why it fails there, yet I can run prime for hours with no errors and the computer works "seemingly perfect"? on top of that...prime runs the cpu @ 100% and s&m was only running it @ 75%








I'm thoroughly confused about that.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


At any rate, I swapped the board and RAM out for the other Ultra-D. Passed 3 hours of Prime @ stock, now I'm testing it @ 2640 @ 1.344v. So far it's 1/2 an hour stable at this speed/voltage. I think I might see how high she'll really go, stabily. 
I'll also post up a mini CPU cooler comparison when I get back from the store.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


yes it fails L1. what I don't understand is why it fails there, yet I can run prime for hours with no errors and the computer works "seemingly perfect"? on top of that...prime runs the cpu @ 100% and s&m was only running it @ 75%








I'm thoroughly confused about that.


Ny_driver, the testing that S&M performs is more strenuous than Prime95. Txtmstrjoe lost a set of a memory to this specific stress tester. It's quite intensive. I'm perfectly fine with Prime95/OCCT...everyone has their own testing methods. How often though will you be running an application that stresses the processor like S&M does? I'm assuming not often especially if you just browse the internetz and check email. Don't worry about being 100% stable, it's never going to happen regardless









Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


yes it fails L1. what I don't understand is why it fails there, yet I can run prime for hours with no errors and the computer works "seemingly perfect"? on top of that...prime runs the cpu @ 100% and s&m was only running it @ 75%








I'm thoroughly confused about that.


 How many hours can it run prime? And which primetest did you run?

As thlnk3r stated, no programs really stress the CPU as much as S&M does. When you run the test, to get the "highest quality" results, it's best to have it set to maximum load.
I have somewhat revised the way I test like this: For initial overclock test (CPU only) I run S&M short duration @ 100%. If it passes that, then I run Prime95 for an hour. If it passes that I move on to my next OC step. If I'm at the final OC, I let prime95 run for a minimum of 8 hours. My sig rig I let run for 16.
Something kind of neat I've noticed with S&M: when you first start S&M and the loading dialog box appears, if the voltage is too low for your CPU frequency the green loading status indicator won't show up. It'll just stay blank as S&M loads up. It's actually very consistent.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*

































 Thanks Hue, that very slight overclock wound up being 3 hours stable. Then @ 2760 @ 1.344v she was 2+ hours stable. Now I've got her sitting at 2903MHz @ 1.42v (was too tired to mess with the voltage properly, I just upped the "special control" to 110%







), at any rate, that OC is 5 hours 11 min stable. I think that I'll need ~1.5v to get 3000MHz stable. @ 1.42v it booted and even primed for about 5minutes before 1 core failed.
At any rate,I'm pretty happy with it's performance. The Xiggy DK keeping hercool is also doing an excellent job. @ 1.44v (vcore jump under load) it keeps both cores under 60C, according to smart guardian the CPU is at 43/44C







stupid thing.

I'll try dropping the voltage later, then I'll mess with OCing those Corsairs to see what they can do. Once all is said and done, I'll load up Everest ultimate and run some benchmarks.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Ny_driver, the testing that S&M performs is more strenuous than Prime95. Txtmstrjoe lost a set of a memory to this specific stress tester. It's quite intensive. I'm perfectly fine with Prime95/OCCT...everyone has their own testing methods. How often though will you be running an application that stresses the processor like S&M does? I'm assuming not often especially if you just browse the internetz and check email. Don't worry about being 100% stable, it's never going to happen regardless









Good luck


 I personally like S&M for checking out the CPU performance and thermal threshold. As usually the FPU test gets it the hottest, I've noticed that the FPU test on average gets the CPU aboutn 5C hotter than prime95 blend test. 
But when testing overall system stability, can't really beat Prime95. 
I was thinking of trying out linpack as I've seen a lot of others (mainly intel people) using it.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
How many hours can it run prime? And which primetest did you run?

I was running the 1st test-small FFTs(maximum FPU stress, data fits in L2 cache, RAM not tested much) for 5 hours with no errors and I shut it off. Now that I look closer at it the 2nd test is probably better for the CPU test. What does FPU mean anyways(floating point unit), and what is the purpose of the 1st test the one I was running?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
I was running the 1st test-small FFTs(maximum FPU stress, data fits in L2 cache, RAM not tested much) for 5 hours with no errors and I shut it off. Now that I look closer at it the 2nd test is probably better for the CPU test. What does FPU mean anyways(floating point unit), and what is the purpose of the 1st test the one I was running?

Ny_driver, FPU is floating point unit. This part of the processor processes all the basic calculations (ie. adding, subtraction, division ect).

Hope that helps


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
I was running the 1st test-small FFTs(maximum FPU stress, data fits in L2 cache, RAM not tested much) for 5 hours with no errors and I shut it off. Now that I look closer at it the 2nd test is probably better for the CPU test. What does FPU mean anyways(floating point unit), and what is the purpose of the 1st test the one I was running?

The small FFT test is similar to S&M, except it's not as intense (IMO). THe large FFT test more of the memory and the CPU to a much lesser extent. The blend test tests large amounts of both. That's why I use it for overall system stability. I've had CPU OC's pass small FFT's and S&M yet fail the blend test.
The blend test not only tests the CPU and memory it also tests the integrated memory controller (IMC).

Try running the prime blend test and see what happens.

PS: You never did say which S&M test your CPU failed.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
The small FFT test is similar to S&M, except it's not as intense (IMO). THe large FFT test more of the memory and the CPU to a much lesser extent. The blend test tests large amounts of both. That's why I use it for overall system stability. I've had CPU OC's pass small FFT's and S&M yet fail the blend test.
The blend test not only tests the CPU and memory it also tests the integrated memory controller (IMC).

Try running the prime blend test and see what happens.

PS: You never did say which S&M test your CPU failed.

Cache 1 level test #2 I think is what it was. I'm going to run the prime blend test now until I get errors.


----------



## BlackOmega

L1 cache failure is typically due to a lack of voltage. I'm betting that you'll fail the blend test relatively quickly.


----------



## ny_driver

***? yesterday I ran blend test for 45 minutes with no errors, and today I get 1 error in 1 minute. I think since the fire that I get slightly different voltage when I boot up, other than that the system runs fine. 
In case you missed the fire story....on Christmas eve I was sticking the multimeter in there to test the cpu voltage on the mosfets and I think I must have caused a short somehow because the system shut down. I fired it right back up and then immediately saw sparks followed by a tiny flame which I mushed out with the tip of my finger. Anyways after the fire and after turning the computer back on and seeing that it was working without catching on fire...I tested the cpu voltage on the each mosfet and I noticed that the one closest to the fire was reading .10 lower than the other two. Now lately I have been noticing that according to HWMonitor, CPUZ, etc.. it appears that my voltage fluctuates approx. .20. for example right now according to those programs it's at 1.47 roughly and last night it was at 1.49 roughly as I didn't test with meter. I will right now 1 sec....I get 1.50 on the meter and 1.48 in windows. Maybe there is a problem with the voltage being properly regulated. I'd like to get another Neo2 Platinum cheap, or maybe something 939 and PCI-E that overclocks well with a good video card and cheap.

Oh yeah the picture of what caught on fire(not my mobo in this picture) same one just not mine..... http://img709.imageshack.us/img709/2761/firedamage.png it looks like it's still intact, but I don't really even know what it is. 
EDIT: I just checked in bios and it said 1.47, but the meter said 1.52. I upped it from 1.35+8.3% to 1.35+10% and now the meter says 1.55 and in windows it says 1.50. It doesn't really seem that consistant. The voltage settings in the bios are whacked anyways..I went through and tested them with the meter, and from 1.40 through 1.55 at each of the percentages(+0,+3.3,+5,+8.3 and+10) I get the same readings (@ each voltage the readings are 1.37, 1.42, 1.47, 1.52, and 1.56)









re-EDIT: cache 1 passed now. cache 2 failed(47c max)??................... primes torture test only made it 12 minutes this time. (fatal rounding error) I don't know what is going on, I'm telling you I ran the torture test for 45 minutes yesterday. maybe my 3700+ has just had enough overclocking...I got it used almost 3 years ago from a guy here named GeekMan that OC'd it.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


EDIT: I just checked in bios and it said 1.47, but the meter said 1.52. I upped it from 1.35+8.3% to 1.35+10% and now the meter says 1.55 and in windows it says 1.50. It doesn't really seem that consistant. The voltage settings in the bios are whacked anyways..I went through and tested them with the meter, and from 1.40 through 1.55 at each of the percentages(+0,+3.3,+5,+8.3 and+10) I get the same readings (@ each voltage the readings are 1.37, 1.42, 1.47, 1.52, and 1.56)










Ny_driver, I would trust what your multimeter is displaying. The software monitoring that is through the operating system is probably not 100% accurate. It's not a surprise though that your voltage is fluctuating. I had similar issues on my old Asus A8N-SLI board.

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
***? yesterday I ran blend test for 45 minutes with no errors, and today I get 1 error in 1 minute. I think since the fire that I get slightly different voltage when I boot up, other than that the system runs fine.
In case you missed the fire story....on Christmas eve I was sticking the multimeter in there to test the cpu voltage on the mosfets and I think I must have caused a short somehow because the system shut down. I fired it right back up and then immediately saw sparks followed by a tiny flame which I mushed out with the tip of my finger. Anyways after the fire and after turning the computer back on and seeing that it was working without catching on fire...I tested the cpu voltage on the each mosfet and I noticed that the one closest to the fire was reading .10 lower than the other two. Now lately I have been noticing that according to HWMonitor, CPUZ, etc.. it appears that my voltage fluctuates approx. .20. for example right now according to those programs it's at 1.47 roughly and last night it was at 1.49 roughly as I didn't test with meter. I will right now 1 sec....I get 1.50 on the meter and 1.48 in windows. Maybe there is a problem with the voltage being properly regulated. I'd like to get another Neo2 Platinum cheap, or maybe something 939 and PCI-E that overclocks well with a good video card and cheap.

Oh yeah the picture of what caught on fire(not my mobo in this picture) same one just not mine..... http://img709.imageshack.us/img709/2761/firedamage.png it looks like it's still intact, but I don't really even know what it is.
EDIT: I just checked in bios and it said 1.47, but the meter said 1.52. I upped it from 1.35+8.3% to 1.35+10% and now the meter says 1.55 and in windows it says 1.50. It doesn't really seem that consistant. The voltage settings in the bios are whacked anyways..I went through and tested them with the meter, and from 1.40 through 1.55 at each of the percentages(+0,+3.3,+5,+8.3 and+10) I get the same readings (@ each voltage the readings are 1.37, 1.42, 1.47, 1.52, and 1.56)









re-EDIT: cache 1 passed now. cache 2 failed(47c max)??................... primes torture test only made it 12 minutes this time. (fatal rounding error) I don't know what is going on, I'm telling you I ran the torture test for 45 minutes yesterday. maybe my 3700+ has just had enough overclocking...I got it used almost 3 years ago from a guy here named GeekMan that OC'd it.

Like thlnk3r said, trust the voltmeter. Software readings are definitely way off, I too used a voltmeter to verify that when my DFI board said that my new PC power & cooling PSU was only pumping out 11.71v on the +12v. In actuality, it was putting out 12.30v. And I also learned the hard way to be very careful as I accidentally bridged 2 connections.









As for your L2 cache failure, was that temperature reading using coretemp or some other software?
Reason I ask is because last night as I was testing my Opty, speedfan/smart guardian (DFI proprietary monitoring software) only showed 43/44C when in actuality, according to coretemp, I was hitting 60/61C. So depending on how far off the readings are, you could have very well exceeded 65C.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


As for your L2 cache failure, was that temperature reading using coretemp or some other software?
Reason I ask is because last night as I was testing my Opty, speedfan/smart guardian (DFI proprietary monitoring software) only showed 43/44C when in actuality, according to coretemp, I was hitting 60/61C. So depending on how far off the readings are, you could have very well exceeded 65C.


 I use Core temp for everything but the 3700+ because it's core temp sensor is way off...it reads 10C lower than the cpu sensor. So I use HWMonitor and nextsensor. right now coretemp says 20-22c which is the same as the ambient temp. CPU temp is 32 right now, which seems about right for the core. It only was hitting high 40s while testing. I do have a lot better than average airflow in my case. I just took some new pictures to show you and imageshack isn't working right now. Sorry. I'll add them later. Anyways I have the ACfreezer, and they layed this board out so it has to point up and the fan barely fits in between my x1950 and the HS, but I have a 120mm fan on the bottom of the side blowing hard into the cpu cooler and x1950. I also have 2 80mm heavy duty A/C exhaust fans in the top right behind the PSU, and 2 80mm intakes in the back and 1 in the front, and 1 old amd cpu fan blowing directly on my ram. There is a lot of air moving in there is my point. Now that I explained what I have for fans I discovered that I can just attach pictures...lol....I figured they'd be too big. Now you'll know just what your looking at.









EDIT: I'm getting another Neo2 from a guy over at TPU, in case that fire actually did mess something important up.


----------



## BlackOmega

That thing has got to be pretty loud with all those fans going.







I know my rig with 3 GPUs' and 4 120mm fans, my rig sounsd crazy when I fire it up. A cross between a jet and a vacuum cleaner.









As for your coretemp issue, are you using the right one? There are 32 and 64 bit versions. Also, I was looking for the feature that logs the max temp and I found the "Temperature offset" box. From what little I know about it, adjusting it changes how coretemp reads the temps. You might want to try messing around with that.

PS: Ever consider painting your case?


----------



## redhat_ownage

i cant go any higher due to the volts topping out at 1.6 bios 1.55v real
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=917046


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage*


i cant go any higher due to the volts topping out at 1.6 bios 1.55v real
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=917046



Redhat, AWESOME! That is sweet









Those San Diegos were always beasts. Do you want me to update the roster with your new overclock or shall I wait until your stable?


----------



## redhat_ownage

that is stable








i dont post unstables
that cpu and board used to do 3.3ghz but i forgot at what voltage
i have a 3.2ghz validation somewhere my brother did i will find it

edit: found http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=224942
its LCBBE
im pretty sure the 3.04 on the 4000 is the highest on the list also im good at this lol


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage*


that is stable








i dont post unstables


Redhat, no worries I updated the roster with your new overclock. Great job +1


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


That thing has got to be pretty loud with all those fans going.







I know my rig with 3 GPUs' and 4 120mm fans, my rig sounsd crazy when I fire it up. A cross between a jet and a vacuum cleaner.









As for your coretemp issue, are you using the right one? There are 32 and 64 bit versions. Also, I was looking for the feature that logs the max temp and I found the "Temperature offset" box. From what little I know about it, adjusting it changes how coretemp reads the temps. You might want to try messing around with that.

PS: Ever consider painting your case?










Yeah, you can hear it...I like the sound







I'll look into the temp offset in core temp, one question though...This is a 64bit mobo, but I'm running a 32bit OS so which core temp do I need? I have the 32 bit one now.

I actually have never even considered painting the case until you mentioned it.







.........I'd have to take it all apart and do some sanding, but I do have some black spray paint. Maybe I'll do that one of these days...it would probably look a little better.

I think my 4400+ Toledo is going to be here today.







Happy New Year
EDIT: yup it's at the PO, gtg pick it up. whooohoooo!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


This is a 64bit mobo, but I'm running a 32bit OS so which core temp do I need? I have the 32 bit one now.


Ny_driver, if you're running a 32-bit operating system then the 32-bit version of Core Temp will suffice.

Hope that helps


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Yeah, you can hear it...I like the sound







I'll look into the temp offset in core temp, one question though...This is a 64bit mobo, but I'm running a 32bit OS so which core temp do I need? I have the 32 bit one now.

I actually have never even considered painting the case until you mentioned it.







.........I'd have to take it all apart and do some sanding, but I do have some black spray paint. Maybe I'll do that one of these days...it would probably look a little better.

I think my 4400+ Toledo is going to be here today.







Happy New Year
EDIT: yup it's at the PO, gtg pick it up. whooohoooo!


 I suppose you get used to it and become uneasy when the fans aren't going.









As thlnk3r said, the 32bit one is the one you need.

And yeah I saw the white box and was like







. And thought to myself, it's not a bad looking case, I bet it would look better in any other color than white.









PS: If you guys haven't already seen it, that Eidos game pack on steam is really a smokin deal. 20 games for $50 and that includes Batman AA, Hitman 1 and 2, Deus Ex, Tomb Raider etc.


----------



## nategr8ns

Happy New Year Pio, and everybody else!
How many other people are still using their 939 rigs as their main and/or only rig? I would still like to build a new PC, but realistically I have no need to. I don't want to waste money on another 2GB DDR set and have it be unstable, though, so I'm staying at 2GB too







.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Happy New Year Pio, and everybody else!
How many other people are still using their 939 rigs as their main and/or only rig? I would still like to build a new PC, but realistically I have no need to. I don't want to waste money on another 2GB DDR set and have it be unstable, though, so I'm staying at 2GB too







.


Nate, Happy New year

I just recently built two Athlon II rigs (in the process of testing). I'm not sure what I'll do with my other S939 stuff though. Spare hardware I guess?


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I suppose you get used to it and become uneasy when the fans aren't going.









As thlnk3r said, the 32bit one is the one you need.

And yeah I saw the white box and was like







. And thought to myself, it's not a bad looking case, I bet it would look better in any other color than white.

ok so I added 10c to core temps offset function and now it runs +/- 1 degree with cpu temp in the other programs. but in HWMonitor core temp is still 10-11 degrees less than cpu so it must be sensor in the chip because it's correct on other cpus.
....and if I paint the case, all I can paint in the top, the sides, the back, and the inside. I have to leave the front white because all my components are white. I bet it'll still look a lot better.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
Happy New Year Pio, and everybody else!
How many other people are still using their 939 rigs as their main and/or only rig? I would still like to build a new PC, but realistically I have no need to. I don't want to waste money on another 2GB DDR set and have it be unstable, though, so I'm staying at 2GB too







.

I'm running 939 as my only system. And I plan to continue for awhile. Just got a 4400+ toledo in the mail today($75), and I'm getting another Neo2 Platinum soon. I'm going to build a second 939 rig so I have a place to put my Opteron 170 that will only run in single channel. Not sure what I'll use it for.







Happy New Year


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
ok so I added 10c to core temps offset function and now it runs +/- 1 degree with cpu temp in the other programs. but in HWMonitor core temp is still 10-11 degrees less than cpu so it must be sensor in the chip because it's correct on other cpus.

Ny_driver, the "cpu temp" on my Opteron 146 was always higher than my "core temps". I'm pretty sure this is normal. As to the accuracy of the readings...well I'm not certain on that









Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
Happy New Year Pio, and everybody else!
How many other people are still using their 939 rigs as their main and/or only rig? I would still like to build a new PC, but realistically I have no need to. I don't want to waste money on another 2GB DDR set and have it be unstable, though, so I'm staying at 2GB too







.

To tell you honestly, I didn't actually _need_ to build this AM3 rig. I just wanted to.








And yeah 2 GB is plenty for XP. I've run 2 and 4 sticks on my 939 rig (my opty 180 will run 4 sticks @ DDR400 no problem), and quite honestly, there wasn't a noticeable difference so I pulled 2 sticks back out of it.
And it's still quite a capable rig. Not much it can't handle really, even games. But you know what I'm really curious about is how well a 939 rig would perform with a 58xx series card. I wonder if you could hit 15/16k in 3dm06.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Nate, Happy New year

*I just recently built two Athlon II rigs* (in the process of testing). I'm not sure what I'll do with my other S939 stuff though. Spare hardware I guess?









O now you've spilled the beans, we want details man!















HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!


----------



## ghost55

how cani get a decent dual core 939 system without paying a ton of money?


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Ny_driver, the "cpu temp" on my Opteron 146 was always higher than my "core temps". I'm pretty sure this is normal. As to the accuracy of the readings...well I'm not certain on that









Good luck

I'm running the 3700+....on the Opteron core temp was higher.
I just checked bios reading and it said 32c which is the same as I get from "cpu" reading in windows( and core temp now that I added 10)
It seems right to me.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ghost55* 
how cani get a decent dual core 939 system without paying a ton of money?

I know where you can get a 4400+ Toledo for $75+$6 shipping, which is by far the cheapest you'll find 939 with 2x1024 L2 cache on ebay. I just bought one Monday night. Look here for the link http://www.overclock.net/online-deal...0-100-obo.html it says 100 OBO they took $75 from me. I'm going down to the PO to pick it up in a little while. Hope this helps. I'm sure you can find a decent 939 mobo for a good price.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
O now you've spilled the beans, we want details man!
:

BO, hahaha I'll probably post a mini-build log in the AM3 Knowledgebase and Info thread when I'm all done. I'm still waiting for a case before I finish









Quote:


Originally Posted by *ghost55* 
how cani get a decent dual core 939 system without paying a ton of money?

Ghost55, honestly I don't know if you'll be able to find S939 hardware for cheap. A lot of the gear is still expensive. Try looking in the For Sale section or even Ebay.

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ghost55* 
how cani get a decent dual core 939 system without paying a ton of money?

CHeck out the deals section here, also look on eBay. One member just bought a DFI lanparty SLI mobo, a dual core opteron (165) and 1 GB of performance RAM for $87. I've seen lots of other dual cores going for relatively cheap on ebay. Once you get to the higher end chips, Opty 180/185, FX60, etc. does the price really jump.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
I'm running the 3700+....on the Opteron core temp was higher.
I just checked bios reading and it said 32c which is the same as I get from "cpu" reading in windows( and core temp now that I added 10)
It seems right to me.









And you know in reality that the core is actually a little hotter than that. You might want to tack on another 5C for good measure.


----------



## nategr8ns

If 2GB is good for XP, do you think its ok for Win7 also?


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
And you know in reality that the core is actually a little hotter than that. You might want to tack on another 5C for good measure.

Someone told me that when you are in bios that the cpu is actually running at like 75%, which I guess doesn't really add up to 32c..... especially at 1.5v and overclocked 550MHz.
How hard do you think the cpu is working while in bios?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
If 2GB is good for XP, do you think its ok for Win7 also?

Nate, absolutely. I've ran Windows 7 with as low as 512MB of memory. My rig at home is running Windows 7 Pro with 2GB of memory and it seems to be pretty smooth.

Hope that helps


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
If 2GB is good for XP, do you think its ok for Win7 also?

No idea, but from what I've read, 2GB should be ok as long as you're not doing intensive stuff. I think 4 is ideal though.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
Someone told me that when you are in bios that the cpu is actually running at like 75%, which I guess doesn't really add up to 32c.
How hard do you think the cpu is working while in bios?

I think it's @ 100%, why? Who the hell knows? Maybe to get the semiconductors hot enough to function properly.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I think it's @ 100%, why? Who the hell knows? Maybe to get the semiconductors hot enough to function properly.

well if that's the case then the bios reading would have to be way off, and therefore useless.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
How hard do you think the cpu is working while in bios?

Ny_driver, the bios is definitely not running at full load 100% but I'd say in the vicinity of 60-80% load. I have yet to see documentation that proves this however it appears to be a common thing and pretty much common knowledge.

Hope that helps


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Ny_driver, the bios is definitely not running at full load 100% but I'd say in the vicinity of 60-80% load. I have yet to see documentation that proves this however it appears to be a common thing and pretty much common knowledge.

Hope that helps

Do you believe the temperature reading in bios is semi-accurate?


----------



## BlackOmega

I was thinking more of the initial start up when everything runs @ 100% for a few seconds, then it throttles down.

No idea why. lol


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Nate, absolutely. I've ran Windows 7 with as low as 512MB of memory. My rig at home is running Windows 7 Pro with 2GB of memory and it seems to be pretty smooth.

Hope that helps










Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
No idea, but from what I've read, 2GB should be ok as long as you're not doing intensive stuff. I think 4 is ideal though.

Sweet, thanks guys. If I can get a hold of a regular Win7 key, I'll try it. I have a beta disk sitting here, but I don't want to have to do another reformat in 3 months. I'll also try with 3GB just for kicks, using my old 2x512mb Corsair Valueselect kit.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
well if that's the case then the bios reading would have to be way off, and therefore useless.

The cpu temp would still be a good way to gauge a few things. For example, after a new cooler install I'll check the temp in the bios. If it's reading 70C then obviously I have a bad mount and should probably power-off the machine asap.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
Do you believe the temperature reading in bios is semi-accurate?

It's only displaying the "cpu temperature" and not the core temperatures. I've always known the "cpu temp" to be at the IHS level. I'm assuming the core temperatures would be more important than that however I still use it from time to time for testing purposes. In my experience it always seems to be a few degrees higher than the core temperatures.

Good luck


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


If 2GB is good for XP, do you think its ok for Win7 also?


Perhaps this doesn't answer the question directly, but my current sig rig runs Vista Ultimate 64-bit on 2GB just fine and dandy.







Win7 is said to be lighter on resources than Vista, so perhaps you can make some semi-educated deductions.

EDIT: Some interesting observations on core temperatures and "CPU" temperatures here. In my experience, core temperatures (which are supposedly read from a thermal diode in the CPU cores themselves) are almost always higher than the "CPU" temperature, which is supposedly what the temperature is at the IHS level. Even with a CPU without its IHS, the core temperatures are almost always just that little bit hotter than the "CPU" temperature; with naked CPUs, the difference between the core temperature and the CPU temperature is much reduced and are actually almost equal to each other in some cases I've seen.

Clearly, there are lots of factors involved when it comes to CPU temperatures. For one thing, IHS quality (flatness; how well it's mounted to the CPU and how well it's contacting the top of the CPU die; materials thickness; interface with the CPU cooler's base; etc.) is inconsistent from chip to chip. Then there's the TIM (which one you're using; how well it's applied; etc.). Another factor is how good the calibration of the sensors are. Then there's the question of the reliability of the software used to read the sensors...

I never go by the CPU temperature reading myself; I always go by the core temperature reading. It's the hotter temperature, which means you're going to be erring on the side of caution (you're bound to be closer to the prescribed thermal limits from the manufacturer, which Blitzy loves to quote). In practice, this hotter temperature is closer to the point in the thermal limits of the processor when it comes to stable operation. In other words, you're closer to that temperature when the chip stops being stable due to excessive heat dissipation.

Hope that helps, fellas.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Ny_driver, I have a feeling you won't even notice a difference. Let us know when the chip arrives and it's up and running. Include the full stepping (everything)
Good luck


ok I got the 4400+ toledo and of course they sent me the stepping asked them to try not to send me(I asked for CCB1E, CCBBE, or LCBxx) and I figured they might be able to hook me up with 27 of them available....it's a CCBWE 0611XPAW. I'm about to install it and see how high it overclocks.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


If 2GB is good for XP, do you think its ok for Win7 also?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Perhaps this doesn't answer the question directly, but my current sig rig runs Vista Ultimate 64-bit on 2GB just fine and dandy.







Win7 is said to be lighter on resources than Vista, so perhaps you can make some semi-educated deductions.


Check out this article guys: How well does Windows 7 handle 512MB?

Pretty interesting


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Check out this article guys: How well does Windows 7 handle 512MB?

Pretty interesting










Thanks for the link3r, thlnk3r.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


ok I got the 4400+ toledo and of course they sent me the stepping asked them to try not to send me(I asked for CCB1E, CCBBE, or LCBxx) and I figured they might be able to hook me up with 27 of them available....it's a CCBWE 0611XPAW. I'm about to install it and see how high it overclocks.


If it makes you feel any better, my 175 is a CCBWE I think







.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Thanks for the link3r, thlnk3r.










Yup, thanks Thinker







.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


If it makes you feel any better, my 175 is a CCBWE I think







.


says LCB9E for your Opteron 175


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
EDIT: Some interesting observations on core temperatures and "CPU" temperatures here. In my experience, core temperatures (which are supposedly read from a thermal diode in the CPU cores themselves) are almost always higher than the "CPU" temperature, which is supposedly what the temperature is at the IHS level. Even with a CPU without its IHS, the core temperatures are almost always just that little bit hotter than the "CPU" temperature; with naked CPUs, the difference between the core temperature and the CPU temperature is much reduced and are actually almost equal to each other in some cases I've seen.

Clearly, there are lots of factors involved when it comes to CPU temperatures. For one thing, IHS quality (flatness; how well it's mounted to the CPU and how well it's contacting the top of the CPU die; materials thickness; interface with the CPU cooler's base; etc.) is inconsistent from chip to chip. Then there's the TIM (which one you're using; how well it's applied; etc.). Another factor is how good the calibration of the sensors are. Then there's the question of the reliability of the software used to read the sensors...

I never go by the CPU temperature reading myself; I always go by the core temperature reading. It's the hotter temperature, which means you're going to be erring on the side of caution (you're bound to be closer to the prescribed thermal limits from the manufacturer, which Blitzy loves to quote). In practice, this hotter temperature is closer to the point in the thermal limits of the processor when it comes to stable operation. In other words, you're closer to that temperature when the chip stops being stable due to excessive heat dissipation.

Hope that helps, fellas.









well...on my new chip I have one core idling very close to ambient temp.(21c) and the other is at 26c. And CPU temp(HWMonitor and Nextsensor) is 27c. I have to assume I installed the cpu pretty well (with my last squirt of AS5...I can probably get 1 more application if I cut open the syringe), and that my air circulation in the case is working superbly.
Time to start testing.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


says LCB9E for your Opteron 175


Oh yeah







.
Now I'm trying to remember what I thought was CCBWE...


----------



## redhat_ownage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Happy New Year Pio, and everybody else!
How many other people are still using their 939 rigs as their main and/or only rig? I would still like to build a new PC, but realistically I have no need to. I don't want to waste money on another 2GB DDR set and have it be unstable, though, so I'm staying at 2GB too







.


what 1gb sticks have you tried?

@ thlnk3r
the last cpu i posted was a 4000


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage*


@ thlnk3r
the last cpu i posted was a 4000










Redhat, oopsy sorry about that. Issue fixed


----------



## ny_driver

2640 MHz and it passes S&M short duration @ 100%. I'm going to run prime for an hour after the next move (to 2750 MHz)









EdIT: hmmm.. what do you suppose it means when the system frezes up during the 2nd to last of S&Ms tests(CPU test)? More voltage? That's my guess...I'll let you know. I cranked it up to 1.56 on the meter. It froze up at 1.51. It's hard to make minor adjustments on this mobo. I think I can get 1.53 if I go to 1.375 + 10% according to my chart I made. We passed the test this time(60c max on one core and 53c on the other). Now I'm running prime torture for an hour.

reEDIT: I ran torture for 80 minutes at 2750 MHz with no errors and a max core temp. temperature of 50 and 58c. I'm going to see if I can go higher at this voltage. I think it's all the voltage this Neo2 has to offer.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage* 
what 1gb sticks have you tried?

I haven't tried 4 sticks, but I have heard that its hard to get a 939 MC to handle 4 dimms. I only have my G.Skill HZs, my Corsair VSes, and a generic 256mb stick from an old gateway.


----------



## redhat_ownage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


I haven't tried 4 sticks, but I have heard that its hard to get a 939 MC to handle 4 dimms. I only have my G.Skill HZs, my Corsair VSes, and a generic 256mb stick from an old gateway.


you should be able to run 4 sticks but at CR2


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


EdIT: hmmm.. what do you suppose it means when the system frezes up during the 2nd to last of S&Ms tests(CPU test)? More voltage?


Ny_driver, it could mean a few things...unstable overclock maybe? If you're still having problems with the increased Vcore, back it back down to 1.51 volts again but lower the cpu overclock about 100Mhz. Re-test with S&M to see if that reproduces the freezing/lockups. Perhaps your just getting close to the limit of the processor









Good luck


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Ny_driver, it could mean a few things...unstable overclock maybe? If you're still having problems with the increased Vcore, back it back down to 1.51 volts again but lower the cpu overclock about 100Mhz. Re-test with S&M to see if that reproduces the freezing/lockups. Perhaps your just getting close to the limit of the processor









Good luck


so far it's passed everything at 1.56...going to try a little higher. How detrimental to the life of the cpu is it to run that much voltage would you say?

Can't get past the windows xp loading screen at 2.8. Looks to me like I've reached the limit. Wouldn't make any difference to lower multi and raise FSB would it, or to make RAM timing adjustments(when it's underclocked anyways)? Gonna go try 1.53v and see if I can get back here.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

There is a point for every chip where, unless you use some kind of exotic cooling strategy on it (like LN2 or dry ice, which would be impractical for anything but benching sessions in my opinion), it wouldn't matter how much VCore you put into the CPU.

How detrimental is super-high VCore to the long-term health of your CPU? I don't know if there is any quantified data on this, but some Club members have blamed elevated VCore for their chips' death/diminished OCability. Electromigration is one of the theorized consequences of sustained elevated VCore levels.

For quick benching, or just to explore your chip's limits, I'd say really high temps and high voltage are okay. For long-term use, though, well... I wouldn't endorse that idea.


----------



## kwint

Old navy called me for an interview so I'll be able to have computers like u guyz!! lol

Happy new year to 939'ers


----------



## ny_driver

thank you, very informative! I just adjusted to what I thought was going to be 1.53 and it came out 1.61 on the meter. I have a feeling I could maybe get a little higher OC now. I gotta try it.









EDIT: I got 2805 right now on 1.59v...I lost .02 without making any adjustments. I couldn't get 2860, but maybe because of losing that little bit of voltage.

How high would you say is acceptable for everyday use...so long as my goal is not to preserve the chip forever.

reEDIT: crashed out of S&M @ 2806. Got the voltage at 1.54 now @ 2750 MHz. testing again. Hope you guys don't mind hearing about my overclocking. I've got no one else to tell.









rereEDIT: failed L1 cache-(not enough voltage). OK it's break time.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kwint* 
Old navy called me for an interview so I'll be able to have computers like u guyz!! lol

Happy new year to 939'ers

Kwint, that is good to hear


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
. Hope you guys don't mind hearing about my overclocking. I've got no one else to tell.









OK it's break time.

Yes taking a periodic brake from time to time is mandatory. Go takes your breaks







j/k Nice work so far and yes we are here to share your *" edit "* *our* trials and tribulations.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


thank you, very informative! I just adjusted to what I thought was going to be 1.53 and it came out 1.61 on the meter. I have a feeling I could maybe get a little higher OC now. I gotta try it.









EDIT: I got 2805 right now on 1.59v...I lost .02 without making any adjustments. I couldn't get 2860, but maybe because of losing that little bit of voltage.

*How high would you say is acceptable for everyday use...so long as my goal is not to preserve the chip forever.*


For me, with excellent air-cooling, no higher than 1.5V (and that's on the high side, to be honest).

As an aside, I wouldn't call the Freezer 64 Pro "excellent" except in terms of pricing. Mine didn't work too well for me (from a couple of years ago).









Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


reEDIT: crashed out of S&M @ 2806. Got the voltage at 1.54 now @ 2750 MHz. testing again. *Hope you guys don't mind hearing about my overclocking. I've got no one else to tell*.









rereEDIT: failed L1 cache-(not enough voltage). OK it's break time.


Hey, that's partly why we're all here, together in this boat!


----------



## Blitz6804

Happy New Years from New York!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Happy New Years from New York!

I still have a few hours and I'm just being a home body. but I has enough drink.


----------



## redhat_ownage

my ML-34 came today
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...age/newcpu.jpg


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage* 
my ML-34 came today
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...age/newcpu.jpg

Redhat, very coool....S754! I love the 35 TDP on these things


----------



## redhat_ownage

i tease


----------



## thlnk3r

Redhat, why is the Vcore so high? Or is that not correct?


----------



## redhat_ownage

it wont post with 8X multi without alot of volts








i will try lower once i find the right settings, ive only been at this for 40minutes.

btw running linpack at that...









HAPPY NEW YEARS!!!!!!


----------



## Kryton

Happy New Year guys!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Happy New Year guys!


Same to you buddy


----------



## Menace

I'd just like to say that I went down to 2.40Ghz from my 2.5Ghz. I noticed that sometimes when I would use the onboard usb ports (transfers from an externald HD or flash drive) the system would freeze. But a 20% increase is still something, considering I'm new to OC'ing


----------



## redhat_ownage

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=919079


----------



## N2Gaming

Happy New Years Kryton and to the rest of the gang as well .


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
Hope you guys don't mind hearing about my overclocking.
















































































Happy New Year


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


For me, with excellent air-cooling, no higher than 1.5V (and that's on the high side, to be honest).

As an aside, I wouldn't call the Freezer 64 Pro "excellent" except in terms of pricing. Mine didn't work too well for me (from a couple of years ago).











I go more by temps rather than voltage. But as we had discussed a while ago what the allowable mex temp is, is dependent on the vcore and overclock. The closer to stock vcore the higher I'll let the temp go. But @ 1.5 vcore, max I'd like to see is ~55C, with 60C being the upper limit. Although, at the higher vcore I've had failure's even with relatively low temps.

For the PhII, with the 1.5 vcore I'm at I don't like it going over 50C. That's why I haven't pushed it any higher as I bet I could get 3.7 stable.

As for the AC Freezer 64, from what I've heard, it's a pretty good cooler. Or was at least. But with the other options out today, it'd be foolish to get one. For the same price you can get a much better cooler like a Mugen2, HDT1283 (when they're on sale), I've even heardgood things about that sunbeam cooler. 
But to tell you quite honestly a lot of the coolers coming out today are just ripoffs of other coolers. Most of them look to be modeled after then Xiggy.

Regardless, I'm still pretty happy with my Big Typhoon. I've been debating on getting a true or a mega and doing a my own comparison testing between the Lapped BT, my Xiggy DK (sitting on the 180 at the moment), and whichever cooler I decide to get. I'm actually expecting the Big Typhoonto do fairly well.


----------



## Blitz6804

Once I get home BlackOmega, I can tell you what I think of my Mega Shadow. I cannot install it in my rig when the rig is ~500 miles away. *Sobs.* I miss my rig! (Read: laptops stink.)


----------



## redhat_ownage

if any ones wondering i found the sweet spot for that mobile chip
and i got the htt up to 370 but it wasn't worth validating 370x7.
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=921458


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage*


if any ones wondering i found the sweet spot for that mobile chip
and i got the htt up to 370 but it wasn't worth validating 370x7.
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=921458


That's very good for one of those chips - I can't remember if my ML-34 went that high before or not. Either way that's a nice OC on that chip.


----------



## Pipe

Hello! I still have my old S939 rig, but I don't want to start this decade with a single core CPU. Would it make sense to get Opteron or Athlon 64 X2 when S775 CPUs seem to be so cheap? I'm a student so I'm broke, but I've planned to get a dual core since I got this rig.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pipe*


Hello! I still have my old S939 rig, but I don't want to start this decade with a single core CPU. Would it make sense to get Opteron or Athlon 64 X2 when S775 CPUs seem to be so cheap? I'm a student so I'm broke, but I've planned to get a dual core since I got this rig.


Do you already have a 775 system?
Cost is the thing to figure on but if you love 939's why "Of Course" it would be. 
You'd probrably find one fairly cheap if you look around. BTW, what chip do you have for the 939 presently?


----------



## Pipe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Do you already have a 775 system?
Cost is the thing to figure on but if you love 939's why "Of Course" it would be. 
You'd probrably find one fairly cheap if you look around. BTW, what chip do you have for the 939 presently?


I have no 775 systems and I like 939, but 939 chips seem to getting more and more expensive. I have only 3000+ Venice so finding a faster chip shouldn't be difficult.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pipe*


Hello! I still have my old S939 rig, but I don't want to start this decade with a single core CPU. Would it make sense to get Opteron or Athlon 64 X2 when S775 CPUs seem to be so cheap? I'm a student so I'm broke, but I've planned to get a dual core since I got this rig.


 If you look on ebay, some 939 stuff is actually getting cheaper from what I have seen, with the exception of the upper end gear like the Opteron 180/185, FX60, etc.

As for would it make sense to upgrade to 775, not really. 775 is basically a dead socket. If you were to go intel :swearing:, it would be in your best interest to get an i5. 
Although, I'd highly suggest getting an AM3 rig over a 775 anyway. They're faster than the core 2 series with the exception of the extreme series but those are extremely expensive also. 
And from most benchmarks that I've seen and from watching the 3dmark ticker, I've noticed the new Phenom II's outperform the core2's regularly. 
Also, with the new C3 revision AM3 CPU's, it's not at all uncommon to see 4GHz with RAM @ 1600MHz or more, and the northbridge frequencies above 2800MHz.

So at any rate, if you can find an opteron 170 for fairly cheap, that's your best route. From what I've seen, the Opty 170's overclock very well on average. Regardless, any dual core CPU will be a noticeable improvement from your single core. If you upgrade to some really powerful GPU also, there really won't be a game that you would have issues playing. 939's are still very capable processors. Yes, the newer stuff is faster, but I think it would be _most_ cost effective just to buy a new CPU. 
And for what it's worth, one of the member's here just bought a DFI lanparty motherboard, an Opteron 165 (1.8x2) and 1 GB Crucial Ballistix for $87.


----------



## mattliston

Did I read that right? someone OC'd a laptop? my god that thing must get blistering hot


----------



## redhat_ownage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mattliston*


Did I read that right? someone OC'd a laptop? my god that thing must get blistering hot


lol


----------



## Kryton

Anything from a 4000+ Single core chip down or a Opty 170/165 should be reasonable. Also the low end X2's should be fairly cheap.
The X2 4200's and upward along with with the 175 Optys and up are more expensive but sometimes a 175 can be found reasonable since it seems to be on the borderline of expensive vs cheap.

Sometimes a forum like this one will have them cheaper than Ebay would - You'll just have to check around and see.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage*


if any ones wondering i found the sweet spot for that mobile chip
and i got the htt up to 370 but it wasn't worth validating 370x7.
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=921458


Redhat, good job on the overclock. That is the first Ml-34 OC that I have seen









Would you like me to add this chip to your name on the roster?

Good luck


----------



## Pipe

Thank you for your tips. Even 3000+ is fast enough for me. I don't play a lot of games. That's why I replaced 7600GT with G210. There are few 170 Opterons on german ebay. I will probably get one of those. I don't think I will be a able to OC it well though. It's 110W and 9npa+ has a temperature sensors near the socket.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pipe*


I don't think I will be a able to OC it well though. It's 110W and 9npa+ has a temperature sensors near the socket.


Pipe, as long as you disable any thermal throttling then that should not be a problem. Do you know what steppings are being advertised on Ebay?

Good luck


----------



## FnkDctr

..


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FnkDctr*


..


If I had the money...


----------



## Pipe

Most don't even have an actual picture. One is supposed to be ACBWE CCBWE LCB9E.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FnkDctr* 
Last edited by FnkDctr : 27 Minutes Ago at 08:55 AM Reason: nevermind, I might buy it myself lol

Darn.


----------



## N2Gaming

What did I miss here? Tator are you druling over the 170 at the German Ebay sight? I would look but I can't read German. Shame on me cause I'm German to.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
What did I miss here? Tator are you druling over the 170 at the German Ebay sight? I would look but I can't read German. Shame on me cause I'm German to.

Either I'm very drunk, or it's in English for me.

The price on it right now is very nice, and my inner parts herder wants to herd it into my little shack of love and make it squeal like a pig.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pipe* 
Most don't even have an actual picture. One is supposed to be ACBWE CCBWE *LCB9E*.

That's the one you want.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Either I'm very drunk, or it's in English for me.

The price on it right now is very nice, and my inner parts herder wants to herd it into my little shack of love and make it squeal like a pig.









Oh I saw that one already. I get emails regularly for these mobo's. I only look for the DFI mobo's


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Redhat, good job on the overclock. That is the first Ml-34 OC that I have seen









Would you like me to add this chip to your name on the roster?

Good luck

I hope you didn't miss it somehow, but the ML-34 is a Socket 754 chip.


----------



## crashovride02

Looking at the prices these optys and mobos hit makes me think about selling my DFI LP NF4 SLI-DR and Opty 165 CCBBE but I love it too much to part with it. I currently have it running my HTPC and it likes it!!


----------



## Pipe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


That's the one you want.


They're all for one chip.







I'm in no rush so I may ask for an actual stepping code.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


What did I miss here? Tator are you druling over the 170 at the German Ebay sight? I would look but I can't read German. Shame on me cause I'm German to.


I'm not German, but theres more s939 Optys on German ebay.


----------



## Menace

Hey guys so these past 2 weeks my pc has been giving me issues. When I play a game (TF2 or L4D2) my pc crashes. I have reverted to stock settings and my pc still crashes. I've checked my RAM (memtest), Video Card (different systems), Power Supply (different one), and Hard Drive. All tested fine. I ran intel burn test and occt on my cpu at stock settings (2.0Ghz and 1.34V)and it passed with no errors. My question is did the overclock mess up my board or is the cpu dying? I had it at 2.4ghz with +25mV (1.36V) (ran OCCT and intelburn test and it always passed). My pc only crashes during gameplay. I can watch a high-def movie and no issues (CPU goes to 46*C). PC crashes at 69*C video and 45*C cpu.

Sorry if I posted in the wrong area, just seemed related to the 939 club and overclock.


----------



## Blitz6804

Menace: Try uninstalling your nVidia drivers, installing Driver Cleaner and Driver Sweeper (both found on Google), reboot in safe mode and run the two driver programs, then reboot and reinstall the newest nVidia driver. I mean both the GeForce 195.62 for your 8600 GT and the nForce 15.23 for your nForce 4.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Menace* 
Hey guys so these past 2 weeks my pc has been giving me issues. When I play a game (TF2 or L4D2) my pc crashes. I have reverted to stock settings and my pc still crashes. I've checked my RAM (memtest), Video Card (different systems), Power Supply (different one), and Hard Drive. All tested fine. I ran intel burn test and occt on my cpu at stock settings (2.0Ghz and 1.34V)and it passed with no errors. My question is did the overclock mess up my board or is the cpu dying? I had it at 2.4ghz with +25mV (1.36V) (ran OCCT and intelburn test and it always passed). My pc only crashes during gameplay. I can watch a high-def movie and no issues (CPU goes to 46*C). PC crashes at 69*C video and 45*C cpu.

Sorry if I posted in the wrong area, just seemed related to the 939 club and overclock.

Menace, if what Blitz suggested doesn't work, it's very possible that your OC could have corrupted your OS. It's highly unlikely that you damaged your hardware unless you really pumped a lot of voltage through it. Even then killing the CPU is actually rather difficult.

Try reinstalling your video/mobo drivers, if that doesn't help, my next suggestion would be backup whatever you want to keep and re-install the OS.

Also, a better stress tester is Prime95 (found on the first page of this thread). Download it and run the BLEND test. It tests both the CPU and the RAM. And when testing an overclock, let prime run for _at least_ 8 hours to determine stability. More than 8 hours is better, but 8 hours minimum.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


I hope you didn't miss it somehow, but the ML-34 is a Socket 754 chip.


Kryton, pathetic because I mentioned a few pages back about it being a S754 chip









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Menace*


Hey guys so these past 2 weeks my pc has been giving me issues. When I play a game (TF2 or L4D2) my pc crashes. I have reverted to stock settings and my pc still crashes.


Menace, it sounds like you're only experiencing these issues during gaming. Have you ran a test with Furmark or the ATITool 3D view tool? Heat that GPU up to see if it locks up. Perhaps that is the culprit.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Also, a better stress tester is Prime95 (found on the first page of this thread). Download it and run the BLEND test. It tests both the CPU and the RAM. And when testing an overclock, let prime run for _at least_ 8 hours to determine stability. More than 8 hours is better, but 8 hours minimum.


BO, OCCT started using Prime 95 algorithm in Beta 2.0.0. Just FYI

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

And I believe 3.0 added the ability to run Linpack.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mattliston* 
Did I read that right? someone OC'd a laptop? my god that thing must get blistering hot

No just a chip that belongs in a laptop.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Kryton, pathetic because I mentioned a few pages back about it being a S754 chip









Sounds/looks like it may possibly just be a case of to much on your plate at one time and your main CPU / Melon froze up for a minute and stopped computing.







j/k


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Sounds/looks like it may possibly just be a case of to much on your plate at one time and your main CPU / Melon froze up for a minute and stoped computing.







j/k

Agreed. My APU needs to be replaced


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Agreed. My APU needs to be replaced









Same here but I need a new chasis to go along w/it.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Same here but I need a new chasis to go along w/it.









My Chassis is solid, and my RAM & HDD's are working wonderfully. The IMC is a bit slow, and I think my CPU's on the fritz.


----------



## Blitz6804

Is it just me, or does it seem like Thlnk3r's lovely green text is now darker?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
My Chassis is solid, and my RAM & HDD's are working wonderfully. The IMC is a bit slow, and I think my CPU's on the fritz.









Hmm yeah my opticals are on the way out as well.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Is it just me, or does it seem like Thlnk3r's lovely green text is now darker?

If I had not rebooted and formated so many times I may be able to remember.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BO, OCCT started using Prime 95 algorithm in Beta 2.0.0. Just FYI

Good luck


 LIES!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


And I believe 3.0 added the ability to run Linpack.


 MORE LIES!









J/K. I believe that Orthos/OCCT/Prime95 use the same iterations. OCCT doesn't work very well for me however, I think one of my temp sensors goes on the fritz every so often and shows readings of over 200C.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Kryton, pathetic because I mentioned a few pages back about it being a S754 chip









Just wanted to be sure we were on the same page here.


----------



## FnkDctr

Im pretty sure my stepping is LCB9E on my 180. Im too lazy to take off the zalman though. any other way to check it?

Also, I'm lookin to reformat my system and set up RAID 0 on 2x250gb sata drives. Thats the faster one right? Like splits the data? half the loading speed for games? Anyone know if I need a floppy or can I use nlite to burn the drivers to an os disc? I have xp sp3 on a cd. any advice would be appreciated


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FnkDctr*


Also, I'm lookin to reformat my system and set up RAID 0 on 2x250gb sata drives. Thats the faster one right? Like splits the data? half the loading speed for games? Anyone know if I need a floppy or can I use nlite to burn the drivers to an os disc? I have xp sp3 on a cd. any advice would be appreciated


FnkDctr, Raid 0 stripes data to across both drives so yes technically it is "faster" on Reads and Writes. Throw in another drive and you'll have even more drive I/O.

A floppy disk will work perfectly. That is how I typically load the raid drivers at the OS installation screen. I'm sure with nlite you can do it I'm just not sure if it'll work. Are you referencing the motherboard in your signature?

Good luck


----------



## Menace

@Blitz: I have the latest video drivers. Just downloaded newest nforce4 drivers. Hopefully this fixes it.









@BlackOmega: Yup, I have a fresh install. I've formated and installed xp pro 3 times. I shall try prime 95 overnight (currently 8pm. will let it run from midnight until I wake up).

@ Thlk3r: Running Furmark (stability) right now (1024 resolution). Started at 7:45pm. It is 8:26pm now. Card heats up to 83*C avg fps is 14. No crashes or lock ups thus far.

Also, I have everything at stock. I will play a round of TF2 and let you know if my pc crashes. I'm thinking its a motherboard issue. I've tested different power supplies, and ram sticks and pc still locks up. I also tried a different 8600GT and again pc would lock up in game. Also, it locks up a lot quicker in TF2 than in L4D2. I noticed that on L4D2 it locks up only when I'm playing online (campaign or versus), single player no lock ups.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Menace* 
@ Thlk3r: Running Furmark (stability) right now (1024 resolution). Started at 7:45pm. It is 8:26pm now. Card heats up to 83*C avg fps is 14. No crashes or lock ups thus far.

Menace, have you checked the Eventviewer to see if any errors are listed in there?

It may not be your motherboard. I mean if it's passing Furmark for that long of time then it's probably not hardware related. Furmark is pretty intense and loads the GPU more then TF2 and L4D. I guess we'll find out after the Prime 95 test









Good luck


----------



## FnkDctr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


FnkDctr, Raid 0 stripes data to across both drives so yes technically it is "faster" on Reads and Writes. Throw in another drive and you'll have even more drive I/O.

A floppy disk will work perfectly. That is how I typically load the raid drivers at the OS installation screen. I'm sure with nlite you can do it I'm just not sure if it'll work. Are you referencing the motherboard in your signature?

Good luck


Well I have 2x250gb WD 16mb cache sata drives, so I figured that'd be perfect for raid 0. I also have a 200b 2mb ide storage drive.

Yes, Im trying to install it on my sig motherboard, and I dont have a floppy, so I was wondering if anyone used nlite to implement the raid drivers. after I install them, how do I set it up? from windows applications or through the f4 raid config utility at the bios startup?


----------



## Menace

Just ran TF2 and itt was going smooth for nearly an hour, played since 9:10 but just now it crashed 10:03. Settings are at medium (msaa off and aax2) I'm on my laptop right now, PC is rebooting. I have no idea what it could be... could it be my hard drive? I'll run prime 95 now.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Alright, here's my new stability proof. I could probably get by with less voltage...but I got lazy and didn't feel like stressing AGAIN.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FnkDctr*


Yes, Im trying to install it on my sig motherboard, and I dont have a floppy, so I was wondering if anyone used nlite to implement the raid drivers. after I install them, how do I set it up? from windows applications or through the f4 raid config utility at the bios startup?


FnkDctr, what operating system do you plan on using? Windows 7 may have the drivers pre-installed for the SATA Raid (Silicon Image or nForce). Otherwise if this is Windows XP then you're almost forced to use a floppy drive. I'm unsure if it's possible via USB drive. That may be something you can test.

The Raid configuration is done through the F4 config utility. Remember there are two different raid controllers (silicon image and nForce).

Good luck


----------



## FnkDctr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


FnkDctr, what operating system do you plan on using? Windows 7 may have the drivers pre-installed for the SATA Raid (Silicon Image or nForce). Otherwise if this is Windows XP then you're almost forced to use a floppy drive. I'm unsure if it's possible via USB drive. That may be something you can test.

The Raid configuration is done through the F4 config utility. Remember there are two different raid controllers (silicon image and nForce).

Good luck


Using xp sp3. I know it asks for the floppy, I just hate having to buy one or put one in my machine.. so ugly.. who uses a floppy drive. I guess sata drivers


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FnkDctr*


Using xp sp3. I know it asks for the floppy, I just hate having to buy one or put one in my machine.. so ugly.. who uses a floppy drive. I guess sata drivers










FnkDctr, try a usb thumb drive. It may work. Do you have any buddies that live local that may be able to loan you a floppy drive?

Good luck


----------



## ny_driver

hey guys, I'm back.
Happy New Year.








the 4400+Toledo has been tested and @2.7GHzhttp://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=926466 I have decided that it is too weak for me. I got spoiled with that Opty 170 before I neutered it







. I'm selling the 4400+ for $100, should be np. I broke down and bought an Opty 180 for $129.95(free shipping) on ebay, and a sunbeam core contact freezer(free shipping) from newegg.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FnkDctr* 
who uses a floppy drive

*Raises hand.* Just used it last week in fact.


----------



## Pipe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I got spoiled with that Opty 170 before I neutered it







. I'm selling the 4400+ for $100, should be np. I broke down and bought an Opty 180 for $129.95(free shipping) on ebay, and a sunbeam core contact freezer(free shipping) from newegg.


Do you think that freezer64 wouldn't be enough for it? I have freezer64 and I want Opty, but I don't trust sensor of 9npa+ ultra.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


hey guys, I'm back.
Happy New Year.








the 4400+Toledo has been tested and @2.7GHzhttp://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=926466 I have decided that it is too weak for me. I got spoiled with that Opty 170 before I neutered it







. I'm selling the 4400+ for $100, should be np. I broke down and bought an Opty 180 for $129.95(free shipping) on ebay, and a sunbeam core contact freezer(free shipping) from newegg.











$130 for an Opty 180 is a wicked price man


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pipe*


Do you think that freezer64 wouldn't be enough for it? I have freezer64 and I want Opty, but I don't trust sensor of 9npa+ ultra.


I'd suggest getting something better than a freezer64 pro if you want to seriously overclock an Opty. they are 110w, and have a max safe temp. of only 65c. the sunbeam gets pretty high reviews, the only negative review I saw is that it's a bit louder than the others......but the fan goes faster than most others, thus better cooling. And for $39.95 you really can't beat it in my opinion.

the freezer64pro is working pretty well with this 4400+ but not quite good enough for an Opty in my opinion, and I have many other fans helping it. my Opty 170 was reaching 65c(load) on one core when overclocked from 2000 to 3000 MHz while using the freezer64pro. I don't want that to happen with my 180. I hope my picture and description helps you determine whether or not you need a better cooler if you get an Opty.

EDIT: ohh btw...I lapped my freezer64pro(first time lapping) and knocked off 2c.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pipe*


but I don't trust sensor of 9npa+ ultra.


Pipe, why don't you trust the temperature readings on your Epox motherboard? Do you have a screen shot that you could share with us that shows the results?

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


FnkDctr, what operating system do you plan on using? Windows 7 may have the drivers pre-installed for the SATA Raid (Silicon Image or nForce). Otherwise if this is Windows XP then you're almost forced to use a floppy drive. I'm unsure if it's possible via USB drive. That may be something you can test.

The Raid configuration is done through the F4 config utility. Remember there are two different raid controllers (silicon image and nForce).

Good luck


 As far as I know XP requires the use of a floppy. When I put my AM3 together I wanted to use a USB drive for the RAID driver. Nada. Had to put the floppy drive in.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FnkDctr*


Using xp sp3. I know it asks for the floppy, I just hate having to buy one or put one in my machine.. so ugly.. *who uses a floppy drive*. I guess sata drivers










 Me. For XP RAID drivers and memtest.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pipe*


Do you think that freezer64 wouldn't be enough for it? I have freezer64 and I want Opty, but I don't trust sensor of 9npa+ ultra.


 The freezer 64 isn't a bad cooler. It would more than likely suffice for an Opty. However, that will highly depend on the clocks you're able to get out of it and at what voltage. Replacing the fan with a higher CFM fan would more than likely improve cooling as well.

PS: You guys missed my white text in my last post.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 

Me. For XP RAID drivers and memtest.

PS: You guys missed my white text in my last post.









I saw it









why do you use a floppy instead of cd for memtest?

EDIT this just occurred to me : probably to avoid messing around with the boot sequence. That's a good idea, I think I may put memtest on a floppy, too.


----------



## Blitz6804

Did not miss it, instead, chose to ignore it. *Chuckles.* For the record, you do not want #FFFFFF, but instead, #F5F5F5 to make text invisible. Regards memtest, I have mine installed on the hard drive. Some Linux distros give you a bootable memtest from the menu.

Like you, my temp sensor will periodically (about once every third, hour-long run) spike over 200Âº C, causing OCCT to fail. Personally, I use S&M and Prime 95 x64 to get the job done. Always clear your sys tray (kill everything that is not essential to running the computer) to let S&M get as much of the components it can possibly grab for best effect.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Did not miss it, instead, chose to ignore it. *Chuckles.* For the record, you do not want #FFFFFF, but instead, #F5F5F5 to make text invisible. Regards memtest, I have mine installed on the hard drive. Some Linux distros give you a bootable memtest from the menu.

Like you, my temp sensor will periodically (about once every third, hour-long run) spike over 200Âº C, causing OCCT to fail. Personally, I use S&M and Prime 95 x64 to get the job done. Always clear your sys tray (kill everything that is not essential to running the computer) to let S&M get as much of the components it can possibly grab for best effect.

Good to know about the invisible text.









Regarding OCCT, I would like to use it as its graphs are fairly detailed which is always nice. The more info the better. It's unfortunate that it gets that spiked reading. I noticed it in coretemp when I set the refresh rate to 50ms.

But like you, I've found S&M and Prime95 to be effective at getting the job done.

Hey Blitz, what is the average OC out of a 940? I had the notion it was around 3.4/3.5 max.


----------



## Menace

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Menace*


@Blitz: I have the latest video drivers. Just downloaded newest nforce4 drivers. Hopefully this fixes it.









@BlackOmega: Yup, I have a fresh install. I've formated and installed xp pro 3 times. I shall try prime 95 overnight (currently 8pm. will let it run from midnight until I wake up).

@ Thlk3r: Running Furmark (stability) right now (1024 resolution). Started at 7:45pm. It is 8:26pm now. Card heats up to 83*C avg fps is 14. No crashes or lock ups thus far.

Also, I have everything at stock. I will play a round of TF2 and let you know if my pc crashes. I'm thinking its a motherboard issue. I've tested different power supplies, and ram sticks and pc still locks up. I also tried a different 8600GT and again pc would lock up in game. Also, it locks up a lot quicker in TF2 than in L4D2. I noticed that on L4D2 it locks up only when I'm playing online (campaign or versus), single player no lock ups.


Just ran prime 95. At first I ran it for 3 hours at stock settings, no errors. Then I decided around 1am that I wanted to test my overclock (2.4GHz @ 1.36volts) Just stopped right now (11:30am). All self-tests were passed. The hottest my cpu got was 50*C. I'm starting to believe its a software issue. I read somewhere that it could be an antivirus/firewall issue. I'll let you guys know


----------



## ny_driver

I know this isn't specifically a memory forum, but I have a memory question or 2. According to the research I've done, I should be able to squeeze a few more MHz out of my RAM by loosening the timings.(OCZ Platinum PC3200 2x1024) Printed on the sticker is 2-3-2-5-1T, but they come up 2.5-3-2-5-1T in BIOS. I have tested them stable at 241 MHz, but I need 246 to run them 1:1. I've tried loosening each of the numbers individually and all at once. I get errors after 5 minutes of memtest no matter what the timings or voltage. Any suggestions? 
It just occurred to me that I never tried 2-3-2-5...I better go try that just to eliminate that possibility. brb


----------



## Blitz6804

BlackOmega: Ask Tator, he's the guru.

ny_driver: Stock for most DDR-500 kits are 3-3-3-8. Most voltages are around 2.8 or so. See if those two together do better. I can guarantee that 2-3-2-5 will fail if 2.5-3-2-5 failed. You can try switching to 2T for a slight stability boost. You can also try loosening your tRC and tRFC from their "ideal" 7/11 respectively to something more like 11/15 or 14/18 for argument's sake.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


BlackOmega: Ask Tator, he's the guru.

ny_driver: Stock for most DDR-500 kits are 3-3-3-8. Most voltages are around 2.8 or so. See if those two together do better. I can guarantee that 2-3-2-5 will fail if 2.5-3-2-5 failed. You can try switching to 2T for a slight stability boost. You can also try loosening your tRC and tRFC from their "ideal" 7/11 respectively to something more like 11/15 or 14/18 for argument's sake.


It's a DDR400 kit, and it wouldn't even POST @ 2-3-2-5. Won't post @ 2T either. I tried a bunch of different settings yesterday including 3-3-3-8, but I don't think I adjusted the tRC or tRFC(I need to look into that)....man I was pretty sure I had already tested this memory out @ 250MHz 3-3-3-6 or 8, I guess I could be wrong. I know I was using it at 250MHz 1:1 with FSB on the 3700+.


----------



## Blitz6804

The memory controller in a San Diego is different from that of a Toledo as far as I know, even that could make a difference.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I know this isn't specifically a memory forum, but I have a memory question or 2. According to the research I've done, I should be able to squeeze a few more MHz out of my RAM by loosening the timings.(OCZ Platinum PC3200 2x1024) Printed on the sticker is 2-3-2-5-1T, but they come up 2.5-3-2-5-1T in BIOS. I have tested them stable at 241 MHz, but I need 246 to run them 1:1. I've tried loosening each of the numbers individually and all at once. I get errors after 5 minutes of memtest no matter what the timings or voltage. Any suggestions? 
It just occurred to me that I never tried 2-3-2-5...I better go try that just to eliminate that possibility. brb


If it says 2.5 then look at the part number reprted in CPU-Z as well. You may not have the true platinum set. OCZ sold some advertised at 2.3.2.5 when they were 2.5/3/2/5 1T. I got a set on ebay and the part number reported in CPU-Z was not the same as my original set but the sticker on the out side of the ram said it was identical. You may have a set like the ones I returned to the seller on ebay.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


The memory controller in a San Diego is different from that of a Toledo as far as I know, even that could make a difference.


OK

I looked and my tRC and tRFC are set to 12/24....seems kind of high.
why is one double the other...should it be that way?


----------



## BlackOmega

AFAIK, to get the tRC you add the tRP and tRAS. And of course you can vary from that ideal. I don't recall the formula for the tRFC setting off of the top of my head.


----------



## ny_driver

well using that formula I went to 7/14 from 12/24 gonna test it now. (sure wish I had memtest on a floppy)


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
well using that formula I went to 7/14 from 12/24 gonna test it now. (sure wish I had memtest on a floppy)









put it on a flash drive


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


It's a DDR400 kit, and it wouldn't even POST @ 2-3-2-5. Won't post @ 2T either.


Ny_driver, I'm a little confused by your two posts. Are you saying your memory is stable when overclocked to 241Mhz but it won't POST at stock settings (200Mhz 2-3-2-5 1T)? Did you make sure to properly adjust the VDimm?

If the sticks are posting at their correct SPD then I would send them back.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

BlackOmega: tRP + tRAS = tRC; tRFC = tRC + 2, 3, or 4. Some DIMMs prefer only 2, some prefer upwards of 4. Larger numbers (for both) increase stability slightly without a massive impact on bandwidth.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Ny_driver, I'm a little confused by your two posts. Are you saying your memory is stable when overclocked to 241Mhz but it won't POST at stock settings (200Mhz 2-3-2-5 1T)? Did you make sure to properly adjust the VDimm?

If the sticks are posting at their correct SPD then I would send them back.

Good luck


sorry for not being clearer. this ram will post @ 2-3-2-5-2T/200MHz, but not 2-3-2-5-1T. At 2.5-3-2-5-1T I can run it 241MHz stable, but if I switch it to 2T it won't post...and if I loosen any of the other timings and try to raise my overclock to 246MHz it seems to make no difference to memtest. I get errors at 5 minutes regardless. I also adjusted the tRC and tRFC with no difference. Any more questions, I'm here.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


sorry for not being clearer. this ram will post @ 2-3-2-5-2T/200MHz, but not 2-3-2-5-1T. At 2.5-3-2-5-1T I can run it 241MHz stable, but if I switch it to 2T it won't post...and if I loosen any of the other timings and try to raise my overclock to 246MHz it seems to make no difference to memtest. I get errors at 5 minutes regardless. I also adjusted the tRC and tRFC with no difference. Any more questions, I'm here.


Ny_driver, just so we're clear:

2-3-2-5 2T/200Mhz - Works
2-3-2-5 1T/200Mhz - Fails
2.5-3-2-5 1T/241Mhz - Works
2.5-3-2-5 2T/241Mhz - Fails

That is really strange that it won't POST at 2T....that baffles me. 2T command rate should lessen the stress on the memory and IMC


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Ny_driver, just so we're clear:

2-3-2-5 2T/200Mhz - Works
2-3-2-5 1T/200Mhz - Fails
2.5-3-2-5 1T/241Mhz - Works
2.5-3-2-5 2T/241Mhz - Fails

That is really strange that it won't POST at 2T....that baffles me. 2T command rate should lessen the stress on the memory and IMC










you got it, except in place of "fails" use "won't post"...it seems strange to me too.

EDIT: sorry to baffle you with bull****, so to speak








it turns out that it does post at 2.5-3-2-5-2T, and it passes memtest at the 246MHz I was looking for. 
I'm sure it wouldn't post when I tried it before.








Now I must test to see if the switch from 1T to 2T was worth the extra 21MHz I needed to run 1:1.

what is the best way to test overall system performance 1 way versus the other?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


you got it, except in place of "fails" use "won't post"...it seems strange to me too.

EDIT: sorry to baffle you with bull****, so to speak








it turns out that it does post at 2.5-3-2-5-2T, and it passes memtest at the 246MHz I was looking for. 
I'm sure it wouldn't post when I tried it before.








Now I must test to see if the switch from 1T to 2T was worth the extra 21MHz I needed to run 1:1.

what is the best way to test overall system performance 1 way versus the other?


I usually use Orthos blended and let it run for at least 12 hours. And going from 1T to 2T will make a HUGE impact on your bandwidth. You might have better luck running at a 1T CR, and maybe even going down to the 166MHz divider, and dropping your CPU's multiplier down. I've noticed on mine that a higher HTT (FSB) with a lower divider actually yields better RAM bandwidth at the same speeds and timings.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I usually use Orthos blended and let it run for at least 12 hours. And going from 1T to 2T will make a HUGE impact on your bandwidth. You might have better luck running at a 1T CR, and maybe even going down to the 166MHz divider, and dropping your CPU's multiplier down. I've noticed on mine that a higher HTT (FSB) with a lower divider actually yields better RAM bandwidth at the same speeds and timings.

Hmmmm....strange. I have my system running at 246 x 11 = 2706MHz/ ram at the 183 divider overclocked to 225 w/2.5-3-2-5-1T......S&M/prime stable. I tried lowering the ram to the 166 and 150 dividers and changing FSB to 270 x 10(lowered the HTT multi to 3) and it won't post. I had the FSB up to 300 with my Opty 170. I'm sitting here scratching my head wondering why it won't post.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
Hmmmm....strange. I have my system running at 246 x 11 = 2706MHz/ ram at the 183 divider overclocked to 225 w/2.5-3-2-5-1T......S&M/prime stable. I tried lowering the ram to the 166 and 150 dividers and changing FSB to 270 x 10(lowered the HTT multi to 3) and it won't post. I had the FSB up to 300 with my Opty 170. I'm sitting here scratching my head wondering why it won't post.









Just an idea, but try changing things slowly. Drop your CPU multiplier, reboot, drop your HT multiplier, reboot, drop your RAM, reboot, up your HTT (FSB), reboot, etc. etc.....

That's how I have to do things with my board. But personally though, at the same clock speeds, a higher HTT (FSB) and a lower RAM divider have yielded better RAM performance for me, at all clock speeds being the same.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Just an idea, but try changing things slowly. Drop your CPU multiplier, reboot, drop your HT multiplier, reboot, drop your RAM, reboot, up your HTT (FSB), reboot, etc. etc.....

That's how I have to do things with my board. But personally though, at the same clock speeds, a higher HTT (FSB) and a lower RAM divider have yielded better RAM performance for me, at all clock speeds being the same.


well, I tried that methodology and I've discovered a new dilemma. I lower my cpu multi from 11 to 10, and then look at windows (core temp, cpuz, and system info)..... and my cpu frequency does not change. 246 x 10 in bios still equals 2706 MHz in windows. I went back to bios to make sure I changed it and sure enough I did. Maybe my mobo has more wrong with it than I thought.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


well, I tried that methodology and I've discovered a new dilemma. I lower my cpu multi from 11 to 10, and then look at windows (core temp, cpuz, and system info)..... and my cpu frequency does not change. 246 x 10 in bios still equals 2706 MHz in windows. I went back to bios to make sure I changed it and sure enough I did. Maybe my mobo has more wrong with it than I thought.










That's really strange. My Jetway 939GT-4 SLI board does the same exact thing with my x2 Manchester in it. But the Manchester in my main board...the multiplier adjustment works fine.


----------



## ny_driver

I don't know if it's the board or the chip. The only way to find out is to put a different cpu in there and test. I just ran out of thermal compound(except for some cheap radio shack silicone stuff). I ordered more AS5 last night. Hmmmm I just got the cpu Thursday, maybe I can return it. I better test, then tough it out with radio shack grease for a couple days.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I don't know if it's the board or the chip. The only way to find out is to put a different cpu in there and test. I just ran out of thermal compound(except for some cheap radio shack silicone stuff). I ordered more AS5 last night. Hmmmm I just got the cpu Thursday, maybe I can return it. I better test, then tough it out with radio shack grease for a couple days.


Well...there is one thing you can try. Try a BIOS update. That might help. But I would doubt that its the chip. Like I said, my Manny does the same thing in my Jetway board, but in my Asus board, the multiplier adjustment works fine.

A BIOS update might just be the fix to your problem with multipliers.


----------



## redhat_ownage

that ocz uses the same chips as my gskill it should be able to do 250mhz 2.5-3-2-5 1T 2.65V


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage*


that ocz uses the same chips as my gskill it should be able to do 250mhz 2.5-3-2-5 1T 2.65V


Not necessarily. My OCZ Platinum DDR500 sticks couldn't even pull DDR450 at 3-3-3-8-2T. I personally won't go OCZ again after those, lol.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Well...there is one thing you can try. Try a BIOS update. That might help. But I would doubt that its the chip. Like I said, my Manny does the same thing in my Jetway board, but in my Asus board, the multiplier adjustment works fine.

A BIOS update might just be the fix to your problem with multipliers.


well, I tested with my 3700+ and can't lower the multi to 10 with that either. gotta be the board...I'm not surprised after it caught on fire and I haven't noticed anything wrong yet, till now. I'm getting another one soon from a guy at TPU, if he can find it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage*


that ocz uses the same chips as my gskill it should be able to do 250mhz 2.5-3-2-5 1T 2.65V


 maybe the board is somehow interfering, don't ask me how but anything is possible I suppose.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


well, I tested with my 3700+ and can't lower the multi to 10 with that either. gotta be the board...I'm not surprised after it caught on fire and I haven't noticed anything wrong yet, till now. I'm getting another one soon from a guy at TPU, if he can find it.

maybe the board is somehow interfering, don't ask me how but anything is possible I suppose.


Again, you might want to try out a BIOS update if possible. My Jetway board does the same thing, and my board has NEVER been abused. But I've also never updated the BIOS on it either.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Again, you might want to try out a BIOS update if possible. My Jetway board does the same thing, and my board has NEVER been abused. But I've also never updated the BIOS on it either.

there isn't a newer bios....this is the newest mod bios, available over at Rebels Haven http://www.lejabeach.com/MSIK8N/k8nneo2.html. I cannot think of a time when I have tried lowering the cpu multi either before or after the fire until tonight, so I really don't know if it worked correctly when I got it or if the fire caused this problem.
Could be worse....WAY worse. I knew I'd eventually discover something wrong after the fire even though it seems to work fine.


----------



## godofdeath

can anyone help me with my sudden weird problem?

Today I swapped my external drive with the internal one, using the 750gb as external and putting the 500gb back in as storage internally. Wiped it, and then now I formatted it.

Then went crazy watching vids and using apps, so computer lagged. Restarted.
Then it says please insert system disc or w/e. Was like HUH?!?!?
Thought drive was dead, check it out. Tried again. Same thing.
Switched the SATA connectors from my bootup hard drive from being 1 to 2 and the 500gb one from being 2 to 1, now it lists in the BIOS the first SATA as 500gb and the bootup as second SATA, and voila now it works, and I'm typing and asking this.

It's just odd, since I always have the bootup one as 1 and w/e after as 2,3, or 4.


----------



## ny_driver

wow my mobo is dead I think. I don't know exactly what happened, but the system shut down and it smelled hot. I'm in the process of testing each component. I took out the mobo, looked it over, and set it on the couch. Nothing appears to be wrong. I hooked the PSU back to it and tried starting it up by shorting the power switch pins. BUT...I haven't ruled out the PSU yet.







I guess tomorrow will tell the tale. What a bummer.









Stay tuned right here for more exciting 939 adventures.


----------



## Blitz6804

ny_driver: Are you sure Cool 'n' Quiet is turned off in the BIOS? Have you tried a program called CrystalCPUID to see if you can change the multiplier from within windows?


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey if any 939'rs play GRID/PC I can now race you. I just picked it up in Modesto, CA for $9.99 BNIB @ GameStop. They don't have any online at that price but you can do a search by your zip code to see if there is any in stock at a gamestop close to you. I have another place some 34 miles away in Galt that is suppose to have a new copy as well. I missed out on GTA4 last night on Steam for $7.49

GRID is actually a nice game and yes Hueristi it actualy has in cab view as well as front bmpr, hood, rear and further back rear view camera positions.

Does any one know if the game auto records all your races for later reviews?

Oh and if any one is wanting to get this cheap you can get them used cheap on Ebay and not have to worry about CD Key code as there is none.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


ny_driver: Are you sure Cool 'n' Quiet is turned off in the BIOS? Have you tried a program called CrystalCPUID to see if you can change the multiplier from within windows?


Yes I know it's disabled in BIOS, and no I haven't tried adjusting the multi through windows. 
I think the mobo is dead though. I just tested the PSU by shorting pins 15 and 16 on the 24 pin connector and it runs fine. I don't know exactly what happened, but I'm not very surprised that it quit working.....in fact I'm surprised it ran after the fire at all.

I don't see anything new wrong with it other than it won't fire up.


----------



## biaxident

*** why my phenom is socket 939? 
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=927672


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *biaxident*


*** why my phenom is socket 939? 
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=927672


Board read error.

The AM3 Socket is 938pins actually. (AM2/AM2+ is 940, 939 is 939, 754 is 754)


----------



## biaxident

but nothing to be worried about?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *biaxident*


but nothing to be worried about?


nope


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


Then went crazy watching vids and using apps, so computer lagged. Restarted.
Then it says please insert system disc or w/e. Was like HUH?!?!?
Thought drive was dead, check it out. Tried again. Same thing.
Switched the SATA connectors from my bootup hard drive from being 1 to 2 and the 500gb one from being 2 to 1, now it lists in the BIOS the first SATA as 500gb and the bootup as second SATA, and voila now it works, and I'm typing and asking this.


Godofdeath, instead of using the jumpers it would probably be better if you went into the bios and did this. Boot Device Priority is what you'll want to look for. The above error message sounds like the bios was booting to the none OS drive.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Yes I know it's disabled in BIOS, and no I haven't tried adjusting the multi through windows. 
I think the mobo is dead though. I just tested the PSU by shorting pins 15 and 16 on the 24 pin connector and it runs fine. I don't know exactly what happened, but I'm not very surprised that it quit working.....in fact I'm surprised it ran after the fire at all.

I don't see anything new wrong with it other than it won't fire up.



Ny_driver, the doesn't necessarily mean the power supply is in perfect working order. Shorting it just means you were able to power it on. Have you properly tested the PSU under idle/load with a multimeter? Can you describe for us again on how the motherboard "caught on fire"? Was there physical damage?

Good luck


----------



## DesertRat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Board read error.

The AM3 Socket is 938pins actually. (AM2/AM2+ is 940, 939 is 939, 754 is 754)


What about if his board supports AM2+ and AM3? Maybe that would account for the odd pin count?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DesertRat*


What about if his board supports AM2+ and AM3? Maybe that would account for the odd pin count?


DesertRat, the Asus website says AM3/AM2+/AM2


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Ny_driver, the doesn't necessarily mean the power supply is in perfect working order. Shorting it just means you were able to power it on. Have you properly tested the PSU under idle/load with a multimeter? Can you describe for us again on how the motherboard "caught on fire"? Was there physical damage?

Good luck


 The fire happened like this....I was testing cpu voltage with multimeter by touching the base of the mosfets. I must have bridged/shorted something because the system shut down. I pretty much knew what I had accidentally done, but thought it was no big deal and powered it right back up.
As I'm standing there hitting the power button, I saw some sparks that quickly developed into a tiny flame which I mushed out with the end of my index finger.
The fire was right next to where I was testing and must have caused the short. I have a picture somewhere of exactly what was physically damaged, but it's too late for me to hunt for that right now. I will in the morning get it for you to see. 
Anyways a few minutes later after I was sure the fire was out I hit the power button and stood close by in case of another fire. Everything seemed to work just fine, and I've been running it for the past couple weeks with no problems until now. I have a line on another Neo2 over at TPU, thankfully.
I'll keep you posted. I plan to properly test the PSU with my multimeter. I have already printed off detailed instructions along with pin-out and allowable tolerances. I'll be around tomorrow.


----------



## thlnk3r

Ny_driver, so the sparks/flames emitted from the board? I can imagine the PSU (which I have done myself ROFL) but the board? This is the first time I've heard of this. I can imagine a short with a multimeter though. Yikes man. I probably would have to just thrown in the towel and called the board "dead". Who knows what was damaged with that short.

Good luck buddy


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Ny_driver, so the sparks/flames emitted from the board? I can imagine the PSU (which I have done myself ROFL) but the board? This is the first time I've heard of this. I can imagine a short with a multimeter though. Yikes man. I probably would have to just thrown in the towel and called the board "dead". Who knows what was damaged with that short.

Good luck buddy









I think it's safe to say that it is officially retired now. I'm getting a "new" one.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DesertRat* 
What about if his board supports AM2+ and AM3? Maybe that would account for the odd pin count?

It's just a board missread error. CPUz, until recently, reported AM3 Phenom II's as being AM2+, even with DDR3 installed.


----------



## Pipe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Pipe, why don't you trust the temperature readings on your Epox motherboard? Do you have a screen shot that you could share with us that shows the results?

Good luck

I have no proof so it's probably just paranoia. I can't post any results due to exams. I have to study 8086 not Athlon 64.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
The freezer 64 isn't a bad cooler. It would more than likely suffice for an Opty. However, that will highly depend on the clocks you're able to get out of it and at what voltage. Replacing the fan with a higher CFM fan would more than likely improve cooling as well.

I will look for some high CFM fans. Thank you. I can't turn the heating down, but I may open a windows before trying serious OC.


----------



## Humble Pie

me please








amd phenom II x2 550 @4Ghz


----------



## Blitz6804

Humble Pie: As win as an overclock that is, a Phenom II x2 550 is Socket AM3, not Socket 939. Sorry.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Humble Pie: As win as an overclock that is, a Phenom II x2 550 is Socket AM3, not Socket 939. Sorry.


If you look at the CPUID page it says otherwise







lol


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Humble Pie* 
me please








amd phenom II x2 550 @4Ghz


Humble Pie, welcome to Overclock.net









I recommend posting your overclocking results in the Socket AM3 Knowledgebase Thread. From there the OP (Tator) can add you to the Phenom II overclocking roster.

Great job on the 4Ghz OC!


----------



## ny_driver

wow...it might actually be the PSU. I hooked it to my ECS K7S5A that I'm using right now and it wouldn't work. I gotta do some testing and hook this PSU I'm running right now to my Neo2, and also go through the xclio with a multimeter.

I'll be a little HOT if that PSU that I bought brand new January 2007 and hardly used ended up quitting and frying my mobo. I'll be back soon.

EDIT: this PSU is so cheap and old it doesn't even have a 4-pin atx 12v connector.
reEDIT: the PSU tests out on the workbench hooked to nothing. I gotta try to get it hooked up to a system so I can test it under load. I wish I had more of a computer workshop.....someday I definitely will. All this screwing around is for the birds.


----------



## ny_driver

quick question...can you hook a PSU that has atx 12v 4-pin connector to a mobo that doesn't have a place for one?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Humble Pie*


me please








amd phenom II x2 550 @4Ghz



 Nice welcome to Fantacy 939 overclocking.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


quick question...can you hook a PSU that has atx 12v 4-pin connector to a mobo that doesn't have a place for one?










Sounds like a trick question and I would have to say no on this one.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


quick question...can you hook a PSU that has atx 12v 4-pin connector to a mobo that doesn't have a place for one?










yes definitely. The PSUs are "backwards" compatible with older motherboards that still use the ATX standard.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Sounds like a trick question and I would have to say no on this one.


That might explain it not working when I tried this morning. 
The voltages were all very steady during my testing of the PSU with it not hooked to anything. It's going to be a real PITA to go hook it to another pc to run prime and test it under load, but I guess I should do it so I KNOW what I'm working with. I'm pretty sure the mobo is the problem. I'll be back.









EDIT: ohhh thanks nategr8ns. I guess that puts me right back where I started


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


yes definitely. The PSUs are "backwards" compatible with older motherboards that still use the ATX standard.


Oh man my bad I read his post to quick and was thinking he wanted to plug the 4 pin 12v plug into a mobo that did not have a slot for it.









@ NY Driver yeah you can just about use any power suply on any mobo as long as it's ATX to ATX but you can not use an AT power supply on an ATX mobo unless you mod the plugs w/the correct power cables to the correct ATX plugs. For a while when they were switcing over from AT to ATX you had the option to use either type as the power supplies came w/both AT and ATX plugs.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Oh man my bad I read his post to quick and was thinking he wanted to plug the 4 pin 12v plug into a mobo that did not have a slot for it.









@ NY Driver yeah you can just about use any power suply on any mobo as long as it's ATX to ATX but you can not use an AT power supply on an ATX mobo unless you mod the plugs w/the correct power cables to the correct ATX plugs. For a while when they were switcing over from AT to ATX you had the option to use either type as the power supplies came w/both AT and ATX plugs.


I've got an old ECS K7S5A with no 4pin atx 12v jack, and I wanted to hook a modern PSU to it which has an optional removable 4 pin cable.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I've got an old ECS K7S5A with no 4pin atx 12v jack, and I wanted to hook a modern PSU to it which has an optional removable 4 pin cable.


9 out of 10 times if the cables plug from the power supply matches the receiving plug on the mobo they will work together supposing you don't force the plug to fit. i.e. don't force a PCIe 8 pin connector into a 8 pin 12v connector on a mobo. If you mobo only has 20 pins at the ATX connector and your power supply has 24 you should still be able to use it so long as you plug it in the correct way and vice versa w/a mobo that has 24 pins and a psu that only has 20 pin plug. IMO You can not hurt a mobo by using a more powerfull power supply then what a mobo requires unless the power supply is bad and sends to much voltage to the mobo due to some short circuit or other defect anomoly.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Oh man my bad I read his post to quick and was thinking he wanted to plug the 4 pin 12v plug into a mobo that did not have a slot for it.









@ NY Driver yeah you can just about use any power suply on any mobo as long as it's ATX to ATX but you can not use an AT power supply on an ATX mobo unless you mod the plugs w/the correct power cables to the correct ATX plugs. For a while when they were switcing over from AT to ATX you had the option to use either type as the power supplies came w/both AT and ATX plugs.


Yep, N2 is right.









Luckily they still make PSU's with the 20+4 ATX plug in along with the 4 pin molex plug. Many PSU's have the 4 pin molex for both types or to run these in a combined config with boards that use both for the CPU such as my 939 DFI Expert. 
The 20+4 ATX is useful mainly for older boards such as my AN7, NF7, A7N8X, DFI NF2 Infinity, ect while also being for use with the newer 24 pin ATX boards. 
Of course you can mod these plugs for use with a 20 pin ATX connection if need be.

Rated wattage isn't a big thing to worry about unless it's too little wattage. All that means is the PSU CAN put out this amount of power if it's needed. I tend to run a much larger PSU than I really need to be sure it's always getting enough power and for other, obvious reasons.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Yep, N2 is right.









Hey you


----------



## ny_driver

well...PSU testing has concluded. My xclio x14 s4p4 600w is solid as a rock while running prime. All voltages are very stable and within acceptable tolerances. I also tested the antec 420(the questionable one I installed in my moms new system). This also seems very stable. Although, prime was failing in the 1st minute for like 3 tries. I adjusted voltage up a little and that didn't help. So I said to myself ......this cpu is not even overclocked, why the heck is it failing prime? So I decided to run the small ffts test (which doesn't test the ram much) and it didn't fail prime for the few minutes that I waited so I decided it might be a good idea to adjust the memory from 1T to 2T, and voila it runs prime just fine. I got my testing done and it's running the torture test right now. 
In conclusion, not only did I learn that my PSU's are good, but I think I also solved the mystery of my moms pc rebooting occasionally. 
Even though my mobo is toast it's been a good day. I have another one lined up for $30+ shipping. Thanks for the help gentlemen.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


In conclusion, not only did I learn that my PSU's are good, but I think I also solved the mystery of my moms pc rebooting occasionally. 
Even though my mobo is toast it's been a good day. I have another one lined up for $30+ shipping. Thanks for the help gentlemen.










Ny_driver, well that is definitely good news about your mom's power supply. I'm glad something positive came out of all your troubles









Good luck


----------



## redhat_ownage

i have 2 SLI DR's on there way to my doorstep








can wait to get my bh-5 cooking at 3.6v


----------



## Blitz6804

It goes without saying but... make sure you have adequate cooling on those suckers!


----------



## redhat_ownage

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
It goes without saying but... make sure you have adequate cooling on those suckers!

my 120x120x38 @200CFM should do right?


----------



## Blitz6804

Maybe. Airflow can only go so far without sufficient heat sinks and conduction surfaces.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Ny_driver, the doesn't necessarily mean the power supply is in perfect working order. Shorting it just means you were able to power it on. Have you properly tested the PSU under idle/load with a multimeter? Can you describe for us again on how the motherboard "caught on fire"? Was there physical damage?

Good luck

here is the picture that I promised. http://img709.imageshack.us/img709/2761/firedamage.png The circled leg on that chip(or whatever it is) is where the fire happened. Now the corner of that "chip" is burned, but still looks intact...and the whole chip turned a few degrees. Here is a picture of the actual damage, but it's not that great a picture. http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/7990/0106001521.jpg
Not that it really matter at this point, but I said I'd show you.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
here is the picture that I promised. http://img709.imageshack.us/img709/2761/firedamage.png The circled leg on that chip(or whatever it is) is where the fire happened. Now the corner of that "chip" is burned, but still looks intact...and the whole chip turned a few degrees. Here is a picture of the actual damage, but it's not that great a picture. http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/7990/0106001521.jpg
Not that it really matter at this point, but I said I'd show you.









Looks like you blew a MOSFET/VRM man, thats going to either kill your board, or cause it to go crazy and unstable.

Normally you need active cooling on those things when overclocking.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
Here is a picture of the actual damage, but it's not that great a picture. http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/7990/0106001521.jpg
Not that it really matter at this point, but I said I'd show you.









Ny_driver, that's one of the mosfets. Technically he can be replaced but I would probably not invest anymore time/money. Honestly there could be more problems with the board now. For your reference, mosfets turn voltage into current so it is an important component.

Thanks for sharing the pictures with us









Good luck


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Looks like you blew a MOSFET/VRM man, thats going to either kill your board, or cause it to go crazy and unstable.

Normally you need active cooling on those things when overclocking.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Ny_driver, that's one of the mosfets. Technically he can be replaced but I would probably not invest anymore time/money. Honestly there could be more problems with the board now. For your reference, mosfets turn voltage into current so it is an important component.

Thanks for sharing the pictures with us









Good luck


Thanks for explaining to me what happened technically. I really had no clue. The board ran a couple weeks like that.....it actually seemed fine until it quit. Does that have anything to do with regulating the amount of voltage the cpu gets? I tested the voltage while running S&M last week and the meter said 1.67v. Just curious about what was going on that I did not notice.

EDIT: I didn't know about using active cooling on them, but I'd have to say there is pretty active air circulation throughout my case. I have a 120mm in the opposite side cover blowing in near the bottom back of the side.


----------



## Tator Tot

Cooling for MOSFET/VRM's would be actual heatsinks, as they generate alot of heat.


----------



## Blitz6804

Many of the boards made for overclocking have, at the very least, sinks on the MOSFETs; better boards have pipes and/or cooling fans in addition. OEM and bargain boards tend to be open air cooled.


----------



## ny_driver

so then at the very least I need to mount a good fan right there, but blowing on exactly what? Are we talking about the thing that caught fire or the things I thought were the mosfets?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


so then at the very least I need to mount a good fan right there, but blowing on exactly what? Are we talking about the thing that caught fire or the things I thought were the mosfets?


The thing that caught fire (and all the bits that look like it) are MOSFETs/VRM's

A fan blowing on them would be good, but a heatsink would be better, as they can generate almost the same amount of heat as your CPU would.


----------



## ny_driver

well, what are those 3 things I was touching to get the voltage? was I touching the right thing? I was touching the base of the things the arrows are pointing to. http://img709.imageshack.us/img709/2761/firedamage.png

EDIT: so I basically need to fabricate some heatsinks and figure out how to mount them. How will I know if they are working? I guess I'll just know that they are installed correctly and expect them to work. I can experiment on my dead motherboard to fabricate and figure how to install them. thanks a lot for the tips.


----------



## thlnk3r

If I remember correctly I think the mosfets on my DFI board were in the 50'ish Celsius range...pretty darn warm if you ask me heh


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


well, what are those 3 things I was touching to get the voltage? was I touching the right thing? I was touching the base of the things the arrows are pointing to. http://img709.imageshack.us/img709/2761/firedamage.png


Inductor Coils.

We've replaced them on modern boards with Ferrite Core Chokes


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


EDIT: so I basically need to fabricate some heatsinks and figure out how to mount them. How will I know if they are working? I guess I'll just know that they are installed correctly and expect them to work. I can experiment on my dead motherboard to fabricate and figure how to install them. thanks a lot for the tips.


Take a look at what Enzotech offers


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


EDIT: so I basically need to fabricate some heatsinks and figure out how to mount them. How will I know if they are working? I guess I'll just know that they are installed correctly and expect them to work. I can experiment on my dead motherboard to fabricate and figure how to install them. thanks a lot for the tips.


I can see how I could make some small heatsinks out of a larger one, but I can't see how the heck I'd mount them. How do people mount these things?
These look pretty nice http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835708011 
I wonder if I could just buy some type of thermal adhesive compound and make some of my own? Although the heatsinks I have laying around are not copper.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I can see how I could make some small heatsinks out of a larger one, but I can't see how the heck I'd mount them. How do people mount these things?


Thermal Tape


----------



## Blitz6804

I think at this point though you would be closing the barn door after the horses ran out... unless you are getting an exact copy of the motherboard which died.


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz, some boards still have their mosfets passively cooled...right? I think there is a Gigabyte UD3 board that does not have any cooling on it's mosfets...


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Thermal Tape 


WOW







that stuff is very pricey. I sure hope there are cheaper alternatives out there for this double sided Thermal tape. I may have to look into this thermal tape for future builds








Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I think at this point though you would be closing the barn door after the horses ran out... unless you are getting an exact copy of the motherboard which died.


 This ^


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I think at this point though you would be closing the barn door after the horses ran out... unless you are getting an exact copy of the motherboard which died.


Yeah I've got the same board coming in the mail very soon. $45 shipped.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Thermal Tape

I don't really like the sound of thermal tape in between the vrm and heatsink. Seems like it would interfere with heat transfer. I'd rather use some type of thermal compound which I can probably get pretty cheap at the local auto parts store.


----------



## Blitz6804

ny_driver: The thermal tape works fine. Unlike thermal adhesive however, it is removable. The alternative would be forcibly mounting the heatsink somehow using only thermal grease.

thlnk3r: I do not know, but I know the high-end boards tend to have good cooling on them.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
I don't really like the sound of thermal tape in between the vrm and heatsink. Seems like it would interfere with heat transfer. I'd rather use some type of thermal compound which I can probably get pretty cheap at the local auto parts store.

Ny_driver, you can use thermal adhesive if you would like but once it's on their it's not coming back off. If you swap boards quite often then the tape would be a smart choice.

Good luck


----------



## Mastiffman

Hey guys,

I have a question for you. What does it mean when the same core keeps failing prime95 Small FFT's and the time that it fails in becomes a lower and lower amount of time?

It's a S393 4400+ Toledo Dual Core on a Asus A8N32 Sli Deluxe. I have a Big Typhoon HS on it with a Thermal Take 3500 Rpm 120mm Fan that moves 95cfm.

The CPU idles about 31-33*C and maxes out a 61-62.5*C after about .5 an hour.

I have the
CPU--- @ 2625Mhz @ 1.4v + Overvolt = +.200v (1.616 in CPU-Z) Is this to much?
HT Link @ 1000Mhz
Ram [email protected] 164Mhz @ 3-3-3-8-10-1T @ 2.9v

Overvolt NB = Disabled
Overvolt SB = Disabled
Overvolt HT = Disabled

Any suggestion as why this happening?

To high max temps? To much voltage? Crappy CPU (I really don't think that this is it.)? lol

In all seriousness, help would be greatly appreciated!

Take care!


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mastiffman* 
Hey guys,

I have a question for you. What does it mean when the same core keeps failing prime95 Small FFT's and the time that it fails in becomes a lower and lower amount of time?

It's a S393 4400+ Toledo Dual Core on a Asus A8N32 Sli Deluxe. I have a Big Typhoon HS on it with a Thermal Take 3500 Rpm 120mm Fan that moves 95cfm.

The CPU idles about 31-33*C and maxes out a 61-62.5*C after about .5 an hour.

I have the
CPU--- @ 2625Mhz @ 1.4v + Overvolt = +.200v (1.616 in CPU-Z) Is this to much?
HT Link @ 1000Mhz
Ram [email protected] 164Mhz @ 3-3-3-8-10-1T @ 2.9v

Overvolt NB = Disabled
Overvolt SB = Disabled
Overvolt HT = Disabled

Any suggestion as why this happening?

To high max temps? To much voltage? Crappy CPU (I really don't think that this is it.)? lol

In all seriousness, help would be greatly appreciated!

Take care!

when does it fail...when it gets hot or right off the bat? 1.6 is a lot of voltage in CPUZ in my opinion. I get quite a bit more on the multimeter than I do in CPUZ. I just learned that a multimeter is much more accurate. I just uninstalled that chip from my computer and am selling it. I was running it @ 2.706 GHz w/ 1.53v on a multimeter. Mine is a CCBWE, what stepping is yours?
EDIT: 61-62c is pretty high especially if you have the 110watt version, and it sounds like you have a decent cooler on there so I would say you definitely need to check your voltage on a meter. I was only hitting like 52-53c with only a AC freezer64pro on it.


----------



## Mastiffman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


when does it fail...when it gets hot or right off the bat? 1.6 is a lot of voltage in CPUZ in my opinion. I get quite a bit more on the multimeter than I do in CPUZ. I just learned that a multimeter is much more accurate. I just uninstalled that chip from my computer and am selling it. I was running it @ 2.706 GHz w/ 1.53v on a multimeter. Mine is a CCBWE, what stepping is yours?
EDIT: 61-62c is pretty high especially if you have the 110watt version, and it sounds like you have a decent cooler on there so I would say you definitely need to check your voltage on a meter. I was only hitting like 52-53c with only a AC freezer64pro on it.


 While I was waiting for a response, I turned down the Voltage to 1.365+.200 O.V. and it then ran for 1hr 21mins. Before, it ran for over 2hrs, then over 1.5hrs then 46mins and then 35mins. That's when I posted.

One thing that I noticed is that the board will not let the volts go above 1.63v and it will bounce from 1.58 to 1.645v. but at load on both cores it will typicaly stay around the voltage set in the BIOS... It's wacky board.

So do you think that I'm getting much more voltage than what is being reported in CPU-Z and mabe that's causing to much heat and instability?

Where do I check the CPU vcore on this board. It's an Asus A8N32 Sli deluxe....

Thanks!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


when does it fail...when it gets hot or right off the bat? 1.6 is a lot of voltage in CPUZ in my opinion. I get quite a bit more on the multimeter than I do in CPUZ. I just learned that a multimeter is much more accurate. I just uninstalled that chip from my computer and am selling it. I was running it @ 2.706 GHz w/ 1.53v on a multimeter. Mine is a CCBWE, what stepping is yours?
EDIT: 61-62c is pretty high especially if you have the 110watt version, and it sounds like you have a decent cooler on there so I would say you definitely need to check your voltage on a meter. I was only hitting like 52-53c with only a AC freezer64pro on it.


 OK you expert mobo voltage checker you, not every one wants their mobo to catch fire.







I couldn't resist.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


OK you expert mobo voltage checker you, not every one wants their mobo to catch fire.







I couldn't resist.


I must admit that was pretty funny
















But I really have learned a lot while destroying my Opty and Neo2.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I must admit that was pretty funny
















But I really have learned a lot while destroying my Opty and Neo2.










Hopefully your new mobo has no defects and works like a charm. This time overclock till you can't push it any more then check your PSU voltage while stressing you system. You will obtain most stable clocks w/a PSU that is rock solid.









Good Luck


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mastiffman* 
One thing that I noticed is that the board will not let the volts go above 1.63v and it will bounce from 1.58 to 1.645v. but at load on both cores it will typicaly stay around the voltage set in the BIOS... It's wacky board.

Mastiffman, that voltage is quite high for being on air. I would not recommend exceeding 1.55 volts. If you have some form of exotic cooling then it should permit you to run higher voltages.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mastiffman* 
Where do I check the CPU vcore on this board. It's an Asus A8N32 Sli deluxe....

To adjust the CPU voltage go to Advanced -> JumperFree Configuration. Go to FID/VID Change. Change that from "Auto" to "Manual". Below that you should see "Processor Voltage" appear. I hope that is what you were referring to









Good luck


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Hopefully your new mobo has no defects and works like a charm. This time overclock till you can't push it any more then check your PSU voltage while stressing you system. You will obtain most stable clocks w/a PSU that is rock solid.









Good Luck

lets hope for the best....I tested my xclio x14 s4p4 600w PSU yesterday while running prime95 on a 3500+, as you probably already know, and I didn't see anything to worry me. Every voltage was steady with no fluctuation, and well within allowable tolerances. None were below what they are supposed to be...all the 3.3's were 3.3, the 5's were 5.14, and the 12's were 12.00(the -12 the blue one was -11.96). Looks good to me. I thought I had chosen a decent reliable PSU when I bought that.







seems I was right. Newegg even still sells it.....only like $10 less than I paid 2 years ago. This one here http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817189007 what do you think?


----------



## Mastiffman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Mastiffman, that voltage is quite high for being on air. I would not recommend exceeding 1.55 volts. If you have some form of exotic cooling then it should permit you to run higher voltages.

To adjust the CPU voltage go to Advanced -> JumperFree Configuration. Go to FID/VID Change. Change that from "Auto" to "Manual". Below that you should see "Processor Voltage" appear. I hope that is what you were referring to









Good luck


 I know HOW TO adjust the voltages! LOL

how else would I have gotten it to 1.6v LOL

Okay, I turned lowered the vcore voltage to 1.365+ the Overvlot which sets it to 1.565 in BIOS and 1.552 in CPU-Z.

It did it again though. It ran for 1hr 21min the first time and then I ran it again and it ran only 1hr 20mins.

I guess that I don't understand why it keeps doing this. Even if I run only 1 instance of prime95 Small FFT's it will fail. But if I run 2 instances then the 1st core (core 0 of 0 & 1) is the only one to fail or at least faails first but normally the 2nd core (Core1) will run forever...

Any ideas?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Blitz, some boards still have their mosfets passively cooled...right? I think there is a Gigabyte UD3 board that does not have any cooling on it's mosfets...


The 770T-UD3P does not have VRM cooling. But you can get a heatsink designed for that board from Enzotech, or you can skank one off of another Gigabyte.

Enzotech also offers a waterblock.

An odd feature (and probably an after thought from Gigabyte to cut costs) is that the board features perfectly laid out VRMs, and the mounting holes for a heatsink.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


WOW







that stuff is very pricey. I sure hope there are cheaper alternatives out there for this double sided Thermal tape. I may have to look into this thermal tape for future builds







This ^


That's just the first think (IE: I went to bookmarks, and Crazy PC is first in the list from my Tech Shops folder) so you'd just have to shop around.

Newegg used to have some, I know FrozenCPU, Performance PC's, Petra's, and Jab-Tech have all had some in the past.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mastiffman*


I know HOW TO adjust the voltages! LOL

how else would I have gotten it to 1.6v LOL

Okay, I turned lowered the vcore voltage to 1.365+ the Overvlot which sets it to 1.565 in BIOS and 1.552 in CPU-Z.

It did it again though. It ran for 1hr 21min the first time and then I ran it again and it ran only 1hr 20mins.

I guess that I don't understand why it keeps doing this. Even if I run only 1 instance of prime95 Small FFT's it will fail. But if I run 2 instances then the 1st core (core 0 of 0 & 1) is the only one to fail or at least faails first but normally the 2nd core (Core1) will run forever...

Any ideas?


Try a little less of an overclock and see if it runs prime. Believe me I know you don't want to do that, but 2.625GHz could be over the limit for that cpu. Was it stable at these settings before just recently? I had mine stable @ 2.7, but not 2.75. Just out of curiosity what is the stepping of the cpu?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mastiffman* 
I know HOW TO adjust the voltages! LOL

how else would I have gotten it to 1.6v LOL

Mastiffman, my apologizes.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mastiffman* 
I guess that I don't understand why it keeps doing this. Even if I run only 1 instance of prime95 Small FFT's it will fail. But if I run 2 instances then the 1st core (core 0 of 0 & 1) is the only one to fail or at least faails first but normally the 2nd core (Core1) will run forever...

Please include cpu-z screen shots of your most recent *stable* overclock. Include the cpu and memory tab if you can. Perhaps a setting or two just needs adjustments.

I have feeling you're trying to push this processor beyond it's limits. Heat could be one of the factors (hence the higher cpu voltages).

Good luck


----------



## Mastiffman

Hey it's all good ThInk3r! No worries...

I used to have it on Water and when I moved to AM3 I popped that TT Big Typphon on it and kind of ignored it. I may have overworked the IMC on it with some Mushkin XP 4000 that I ran upto 285Mhz (550Mhz) @ CL3 @ 3.05v LOL.

So I was just wondering if any you Vets had any idea's.

I'm right 1000Mhz on the HTLink and even knocked down my Ram a fe days ago to less than 200mhz. to see if maybe that was it. But the temps just keep jumping up to 58-60*C. 
It's Rock solid and moves nice @ 2.55ghz with ram @ 255Mhz CL3-3-3-8. I just wanted to see if I could move up a bit. I may just put it back to that. It seemed to be more stable once I lowered the Ram though.

My main question is this:

Why would a Core fail sooner and sooner in Prime95? Almost like it's getting less and less stable? Do you guys have any idea about that?


----------



## Menace

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Menace*


Just ran prime 95. At first I ran it for 3 hours at stock settings, no errors. Then I decided that I wanted to test my overclock (2.4GHz @ 1.36volts) Just stopped right now (10.5 hr test). All self-tests were passed. The hottest my cpu got was 50*C. I'm starting to believe its a software issue. I read somewhere that it could be an antivirus/firewall issue. I'll let you guys know










Found the issue, for future reference I will post here. Not sure if it's just me, the CPU socket, or all AMD processors. In valve games, there is the option to enable multi core in video settings. I enabled this and that was the reason why I would crash in tf2 and l4d2 after 30 mins of playing (In CS:S there is no option for this so I wouldn't crash). I disabled this and I've been fraggin away since, no crashes at all.


----------



## Blitz6804

My laptop handles the setting without issue in L4D1+2. I have yet to try either on my desktop.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Menace* 
=In valve games, there is the option to enable multi core in video settings. I enabled this and that was the reason why I would crash in tf2 and l4d2 after 30 mins of playing (In CS:S there is no option for this so I wouldn't crash). I disabled this and I've been fraggin away since, no crashes at all.

Menace, I'm glad you solved your issues









+1 for the troubleshooting


----------



## Mastiffman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Menace*


Found the issue, for future reference I will post here. Not sure if it's just me, the CPU socket, or all AMD processors. In valve games, there is the option to enable multi core in video settings. I enabled this and that was the reason why I would crash in tf2 and l4d2 after 30 mins of playing (In CS:S there is no option for this so I wouldn't crash). I disabled this and I've been fraggin away since, no crashes at all.










 Yeah, nice work brother!

So, a question for you guys. How is it that one can go about OCing a 939 Dual Core (4400+, Toledo 110w) on Stock volts. Is a "Raise the Core frequeny by 2-3Mhz at a time, Priming in between each raise in Mhz" type of situation? Or is there something that I'm missing?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mastiffman*


So, a question for you guys. How is it that one can go about OCing a 939 Dual Core (4400+, Toledo 110w) on Stock volts. Is a "Raise the Core frequeny by 2-3Mhz at a time, Priming in between each raise in Mhz" type of situation? Or is there something that I'm missing?


Mastiffman, he might of a good overclocking chip (good stepping/cut). Not all processors will overclock the same unfortunately. Many of us here also like to test each component first (processor, motherboard, memory ) before doing any "real" overclocking. It's always nice to know the limits of each thing. Txtmstrjoe likes to refer to it as, "Divide and Conquer".

Luck is another thing. My Opteron 170 LCBQE did 3Ghz on stock voltage. Others with the same stepping weren't so lucky









Hope that helps


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mastiffman* 

Why would a Core fail sooner and sooner in Prime95? Almost like it's getting less and less stable? Do you guys have any idea about that?

Once the cpu has been heated up internally it will keep some residual temperatures inside under the lid so to speak and this may allow for your temps to raise to crashing levels sooner and sooner each time or maybe some electro migration is playing it's hand here and you may be gambling w/an inevitable death if you keep playing w/such high voltages to the cpu.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
.Luck is another thing. My Opteron 170 LCBQE did 3Ghz on stock voltage. Others with the same stepping weren't so lucky









Hope that helps

My Opty 170 CCB1E did 3GHz on 1.44v according to cpuz which means it was probably like 1.49. Just added that info to help you see the difference in steppings.







being that I'm now an expert at all things 939 related







huh, N2Gaming?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
Looks good to me. I thought I had chosen a decent reliable PSU when I bought that.







seems I was right. Newegg even still sells it.....only like $10 less than I paid 2 years ago. This one here http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817189007 what do you think?

I don't know any thing about that brand. Sorry.


----------



## thlnk3r

Mastiffman, have you performed stability testing at stock settings? I apologize if you had already mentioned this.


----------



## ny_driver

will ddr500 ram work on my board? I'm pretty sure in the manual it did not say that it supported ddr500, it only talked about 400. what do you think?(I'm talking about a Neo2 Platinum)
EDIT: do you think they would just register as 400...that would be fine.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


will ddr500 ram work on my board? I'm pretty sure in the manual it did not say that it supported ddr500, it only talked about 400. what do you think?(I'm talking about a Neo2 Platinum)


Ny_driver, you should be able to however it will probably default to DDR-400. To achieve DDR-500 speeds you'll have to overclock the memory. You can do this by raising the HT Clock speed (reference clock speed). Don't forget also you have the memory divider and cpu multiplier to play with. This should help in achieving those speeds.

Good luck


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Ny_driver, you should be able to however it will probably default to DDR-400. To achieve DDR-500 speeds you'll have to overclock the memory. You can do this by raising the HT Clock speed (reference clock speed). Don't forget also you have the memory divider and cpu multiplier to play with. This should help in achieving those speeds.

Good luck


that's what I was hoping.....I don't mind overclocking







Hopefully I'll be able to squeeze DDR600 out of them .......when I get them.


----------



## eternalenergy311

Fellow socket 939er's,

In your opinions which would be a better choice and provide better overclocking ability. Taking in consideration that my board will only go up to ddr466 in bios. Although I will onviously not have the divider set there anyways. This is for my sig rig, and hopefully allow me to finally hit that 3.0ghz mark stable. Thanks for any input.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820226108

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820226108

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820146034


----------



## Tator Tot

Both of those links go to the same kits.


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Both of those links go to the same kits.


sorry, see edit.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311* 
sorry, see edit.

The DDR500 is what I have and OC very well, plus they already have some headway for you from the get go. I've been able to get mine to DDR 548. Your mileage may very as no Kit is completely alike.


----------



## Tator Tot

I agree with GuardianOdin, those Redline sticks were top of the line for DDR1 days. Go for them.


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
The DDR500 is what I have and OC very well, plus they already have some headway for you from the get go. I've been able to get mine to DDR 548. Your mileage may very as no Kit is completely alike.

I guess the debate i am having right now is that the ddr400 claims to hold tighter timings, so I question weather or not I can get a high enough overclock without having to use the ddr500.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311* 
I guess the debate i am having right now is that the ddr400 claims to hold tighter timings, so I question weather or not I can get a high enough overclock without having to use the ddr500.

The Redlines can tighten down to those DDR400 timings.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
The Redlines can tighten down to those DDR400 timings.

This ^ and since your gonna be overclocking your FSB you would be better served having ram that is very adjustable. Those redlines would be my pick. Some but not all DDR400 ram kits can run at DDR500 speeds w/the correct timings but w/the redlines you won't have to worry about it at all. just set your ram dividor to DDR400 or 450 etc etc and start pushing your FSB to establish your goal of 3.0GHz.


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
The Redlines can tighten down to those DDR400 timings.

That being said, is it agreed that this is the best ddr1 mem on the market with the exception of the crucial pc4400 stuff, which is very pricy and hard to find. Next question, do you guys think this would help my quest to achieve 3.0?


----------



## redhat_ownage

i have gskill ZX 1gb it does ddr600 if you really try and 500mhz at 2.6V cl2.5
by the timings im almost positive these have the same chips.
if your lucky they will be as good as mine.
buy 2 sets and see what clocks higher and sell the other.

BTW i did this for the LULZ
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=936448


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:


Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage* 
i have gskill ZX 1gb it does ddr600 if you really try and 500mhz at 2.6V cl2.5
by the timings im almost positive these have the same chips.
if your lucky they will be as good as mine.
buy 2 sets and see what clocks higher and sell the other.

actually i would run both sets to replace the the 4 gigs i have. I would run one set for benchmarking/bragging rights, after that my daily use would run all 4 gigs. The prices dropped off a little so nows the time it seems to buy.


----------



## redhat_ownage

oooh and one thing about that ram that drove me crazy, trcd cannot be set lower than 3 no matter what voltage haha i tried upto 3.2V nothing at all
but it will do cl1.5 if the subs are slack


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:


Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage* 
oooh and one thing about that ram that drove me crazy, trcd cannot be set lower than 3 no matter what voltage haha i tried upto 3.2V nothing at all
but it will do cl1.5 if the subs are slack

so basically 1.5-3-2-5 would be the limits?


----------



## redhat_ownage

theres the cl1.5 validation
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=771494

280mhz
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=814811

i did edit the ram spd's to be able to hit that speed it took me 3 months of tweaking the spd to be able to boot 280 with just the main timings set
but i do have the spd's saved


----------



## FnkDctr

If you want to run stable 500mhz all day I suggest http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...ocz%20platinum

I have em. I know there are some better for pure overclocking. but ive gotten mine to 530 many times, 540 a bunch I swear even 550. I run them all day every day at 500mhz 3-3-3-7. stock they really like 2.5-3-2-5 and only would overlock to about 440mhz before needing more voltage.

I can easily get them above 8bg/sec testing with everest home edition version 4.20 of course. but thats like 2.9ghz cpu speed.

If you plan to just benchmark for the fff of it, get something rated for it. if u want something to run overclocked for gaming, get these. the heatspreaders kick ass and barely even get warm at 500mhz.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FnkDctr*


If you want to run stable 500mhz all day I suggest http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...ocz%20platinum

I have em. I know there are some better for pure overclocking. but ive gotten mine to 530 many times, 540 a bunch I swear even 550. I run them all day every day at 500mhz 3-3-3-7. stock they really like 2.5-3-2-5 and only would overlock to about 440mhz before needing more voltage.

I can easily get them above 8bg/sec testing with everest home edition version 4.20 of course. but thats like 2.9ghz cpu speed.

If you plan to just benchmark for the fff of it, get something rated for it. if u want something to run overclocked for gaming, get these. the heatspreaders kick ass and barely even get warm at 500mhz.


That's the same memory I have. Is that 3-3-3-7 @ 2T or 1T?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FnkDctr*


If you want to run stable 500mhz all day I suggest http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...ocz%20platinum

I have em. I know there are some better for pure overclocking. but ive gotten mine to 530 many times, 540 a bunch I swear even 550. I run them all day every day at 500mhz 3-3-3-7. stock they really like 2.5-3-2-5 and only would overlock to about 440mhz before needing more voltage.

I can easily get them above 8bg/sec testing with everest home edition version 4.20 of course. but thats like 2.9ghz cpu speed.

If you plan to just benchmark for the fff of it, get something rated for it. if u want something to run overclocked for gaming, get these. the heatspreaders kick ass and barely even get warm at 500mhz.


I have that same exact kit and was never very lucky overclocking thosed but then again I never really tried to loosen up the timings much. I was expecting them to be able to overclock from the stock timings of 2.3.2.5 1T


----------



## BlackOmega

Hey fellas, did you hear? thlnk3r is a senior mod now! WOOT Congrats man!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hey fellas, did you hear? thlnk3r is a senior mod now! WOOT Congrats man!


I did now.









Congrats Thlnk3r


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hey fellas, did you hear? thlnk3r is a senior mod now! WOOT Congrats man!


That why his green is darker?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I have that same exact kit and was never very lucky overclocking thosed but then again I never really tried to loosen up the timings much. I was expecting them to be able to overclock from the stock timings of 2.3.2.5 1T


N2Gaming, that's probably because this specific kit comes with four different type of IC's. That makes overclocking this set a pain in the butt haha.

List taken from here:

Samsung TCB3
ProMOS 5ns (relabeled)
Mosel Vitelic 5ns (relabeled)
Winbond CH-5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hey fellas, did you hear? thlnk3r is a senior mod now! WOOT Congrats man!


Thanks buddy!


----------



## redhat_ownage

this is stupid....
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...ownage/433.jpg

it wont crash

edit: if i dump some voltage on it i might be able to boot with 7 multi


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


That why his green is darker?


Correctamundo.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


I guess the debate i am having right now is that the ddr400 claims to hold tighter timings, so I question weather or not I can get a high enough overclock without having to use the ddr500.


It's really all in the timings. You'll be there a bit adjusting







BUT it is all worth it in my opinion. The DDR400 won't necessarily run at tighter timings. You're dealing two 2Gb kits. If they were 512Mb sticks then maybe. From my u7nderstanding and experience OC'ing 512Mb's Vs 1Gb sticks The 512's OC'ed better, but not all the time.

My best OC'ing kit were 1Gb kit of Ultra DDR400...which are all but gone from the market. I can't find them anywhere. Their DDR400 2Gb kits were monsters as well. Man I miss those. Nothing I had before or since can touch them in timings and speed.









OH! and gratz to Thinker!


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Correctamundo.










You know, for some reason I always thought

Txtmstrjoe > Thlnk3r. As in rank.

It just seemed to me like the Dark Bold Blue (denoting OCN's color scheme) would be higher tier than Dark Bold Green.


----------



## thlnk3r

Joe is the light side and I am the dark side


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Joe is the light side and I am the dark side










dark side ftw
especially EVILLLLL


----------



## FnkDctr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


That's the same memory I have. Is that 3-3-3-7 @ 2T or 1T?


I only run my ram at 1t. 2t had a decent decrease in performance. I know that the 939 series have the memory controllers on the cpu. So if you run 4 memory sticks, it will always set itself to 2t. I know you can force 1t in the bios with 4 memory sticks, but many people are getting BSOD

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I have that same exact kit and was never very lucky overclocking thosed but then again I never really tried to loosen up the timings much. I was expecting them to be able to overclock from the stock timings of 2.3.2.5 1T


The memory sticks default at 2.5-3-2-5. The advertised speed is 2-3-2-5, but you have to set it in the bios. I have ran them at 2-2-2-5, and 2-3-2-5. I found them the most stable at 2.5-3-2-5 for overclocking to about 440mhz. I used software to increase my fsb and get the system to 220fsb. gets my cpu to 2,640ghz and ram 440mhz is decent.

My every day settings are 250fsb. I lower my multi from 12x to 11x so my cpu runs at 2.75ghz. The ram is 500mhz 3-3-3-7 all day every day. Lowered my HT link to 4x, and my system is overclocked, stable, and runs perfect.

Like I said, I can get them to 530mhz or higher with 3-3-3-7, I used to even loosen them to 3-4-4-8.

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm98/fnkdctr/ocd.jpg

I cant see my own overclock screenshot cause im at work. but im sure the ram was overclocked high as hell. OCz ram defaults at 2.6v and also will warranty up to 2.8v. The highest I ever put them to was 2.7v. I can prob hit 540mhz and 550mhz all day if I increased the voltage. But no need. I get 7 or 8 gb/sec and run stable on ddr1. I'm happy.


----------



## N2Gaming

FD, I always run all my ram kits from any manufacture at the highest warrantied voltages just to make sure I don't run into any ram instability issues and I always buy ram w/pre built heat spreaders on the ram from the factory. I may try to push my OCZ being as I'm on that system now GF is watching TV in the living room where my sig rig is







. So Now I have an excuse to try to push my OCZed's. That is some thing I never understood. Why do people like 3DGameman and the likes call OCZ OCZad or OCZed???


----------



## Tator Tot

The Zed/Zad thing is accent related.

Basically, they cannot say a Z because of there accent.

They do the same *NZ*ad*XT *


----------



## N2Gaming

Oh OK LOL


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I did now.









Congrats Thlnk3r


Congrats on the promotion!
Good to see you move up in the ranks. Guess one day you'll make Admin status and know you'll be a good one when you do. 
I guess that's the same as I am at CP. I can moderate the entire site there and except for changing things about the site itself and a few other things, I can do it.

Speaking of things I've been doing as of late, we're starting to make some changes there and that's why I haven't been in so much lately. Lots of stuff going on and I'm kinda in the middle of it all. 
I also believe I'll have to let someone take over updating the 32M Super PI thread with all that's been going on since I don't seem to have the time anymore for that, benching and doing my duties there too. Not going anywhere and I'll be in as regularly as possible.

When things settle down there, I'll let you guys know so you can check it out and let me know what you think.


----------



## Blitz6804

N2Gaming: US English is "Zee," UK English is "Zed." I tend to hear both up here since I get some Canadian radio stations, who refer to the Rush song _YYZ_ as "Why Why Zed" instead of the "Why Why Zee" the NY stations do.


----------



## DesertRat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


N2Gaming: US English is "Zee," UK English is "Zed." I tend to hear both up here since I get some Canadian radio stations, who refer to the Rush song _YYZ_ as "Why Why Zed" instead of the "Why Why Zee" the NY stations do.


IIRC zed is also used in the military as you can easily confuse zee w/ other letters(Pee, Tee, Gee, etc.) but even if you only get part of the syllable you could make out zed.

edit: my reasoning on that may be off, but I have heard zed be used in milspeak rather than zee.


----------



## N2Gaming

Now I feel really informed about Zed.









I just tried for over an hour to get my OCZed to overclock and they wornt clocking for Shed.







so I gave up and put my system back to stock. So I could post this. Back to the living room now where my sig rig is.







Thank God...


----------



## thlnk3r

Thanks Kryton...I appreciate that response


----------



## Kryton

I don't know whats up with OCZ and it's AM3 RAM.

Seems like most of their AM3 RAM right now isn't as good as the others for some reason. Maybe it's just one of those things for them at the moment but with the problems I've seen reported about their AM3 RAM, it's making me wonder here - Mind you my set of AM3 sticks that's not working well right now are also OCZ. I'm thinking Geil, Corsair or Patriot would be a good brand to go with for my next set. 
Crucial sticks aren't listed as compatable with my MB (Haven't checked that lately) and I've even seen posts about them not working with it or that's what I would have bought in the first place. Maybe there's a few that would work now but when I was shopping, there were none.

At least my DDR PC4400's seem to be OK after I thought they were toast and those will get some speed going.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Crucial sticks aren't listed as compatable with my MB (Haven't checked that lately) and I've even seen posts about them not working with it or that's what I would have bought in the first place. Maybe there's a few that would work now but when I was shopping, there were none.


Kryton, the Crucial set I have now (suggested by Tator) is awesome. Stock is 9-9-9-24. I'm able to do 7-7-7-20 with 1.65volts at 2540Mhz NB. Good stuff! My Everest memory read speeds are about 9500MB/s (1333Mhz).


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Kryton, the Crucial set I have now (suggested by Tator) is awesome. Stock is 9-9-9-24. I'm able to do 7-7-7-20 with 1.65volts at 2540Mhz NB. Good stuff! My Everest memory read speeds are about 9500MB/s (1333Mhz).


I'll check those out and hope they are compatable with my MSI. Have to admit my present set would clock fairly high with rather tight timings but also believe that may have been what caused my problems. Got them to show over 900MHz in the CPU-Z tab before they started acting up.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


I'll check those out and hope they are compatable with my MSI. Have to admit my present set would clock fairly high with rather tight timings but also believe that may have been what caused my problems. Got them to show over 900MHz in the CPU-Z tab before they started acting up.


Kryton, here's the kit I bought: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820148194

IC's are D9JNM's. They are stock 1.6 volts (no heatspreaders required for cooling)


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Kryton, here's the kit I bought: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820148194

IC's are D9JNM's. They are stock 1.6 volts (no heatspreaders required for cooling)









war did doze cum frum?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*









war did doze cum frum?


Santa Claus of course


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Santa Claus of course


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Kryton, here's the kit I bought: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820148194

IC's are D9JNM's. They are stock 1.6 volts (no heatspreaders required for cooling)


If they will work with my board, I'll consider those for sure.


----------



## Blitz6804

Wait wait wait... a 2 CAS improvement on stock voltage?! Insane win!


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Wait wait wait... a 2 CAS improvement on stock voltage?! Insane win!


Well it's because they are Micron D9JNM's, which can do 2000mhz Cas 8 easily. (That's going up from the 1600mhz 1.65v Cas 8 sticks, and not changing anything but freq)


----------



## thlnk3r

Tator & Blitz, yeah this set is sick. I saw a difference with increased memory frequency but I saw a bigger difference with tighter timings


----------



## Blitz6804

Going to change your sig rig over, or is this a client's rig?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Going to change your sig rig over, or is this a client's rig?


Blitz, oh I'm still getting things configured (OC, new case ect). I think I need to mod the case with my dremel...not sure yet haha

EDIT: It's just a Athlon II X4 620...nothing exciting


----------



## Blitz6804

If you're playing with it, it probably will be. Remember that 170?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
If you're playing with it, it probably will be. Remember that 170?

Blitz, the 620 already clocked out at 3.3Ghz (stock vcore). However I haven't tried playing with the chipset voltage yet to see if that helps. I was able to get 2540Mhz NB Freq with 1.3 volts. It's a pretty strong chip. Cut is 90117


----------



## Blitz6804

When I get home, someone has to remind me to check my full code when I swap out the Noctua for the Prolimatech. The plan has been pushed back to Wednesday.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
When I get home, someone has to remind me to check my full code when I swap out the Noctua for the Prolimatech. The plan has been pushed back to Wednesday.

Set it up on your phone man!









I do that all the time. " *ding ding ding* Remember to change XX voltage on XX chip to XX "









I've actually had a girlfriend grab my phone because I set it to ring at 6:30 AM instead of PM once and read that. She was very







and I was definitely feeling my geek that day


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DesertRat*


IIRC zed is also used in the military as you can easily confuse zee w/ other letters(Pee, Tee, Gee, etc.) but even if you only get part of the syllable you could make out zed.

edit: my reasoning on that may be off, but I have heard zed be used in milspeak rather than zee.


 I always thought the Brits used "zet" and not "zed". Most other European countries do use zet, not zed.

Also, in regards to military "speak", they don't use letters. They have a code (which I used in the autoparts business), they use words instead:
A-Alpha
B-Bravo
C-Charlie
D-Delta
E-echo
F-Foxtrot
G-Golf
H-Hotel
I-India
J-Juliet
K-Kilo
L-Lima
M-Mike
N-november
O-Oscar
P-Papa
Q-Quebec
R-Romeo
S-Sierra
T-Tango
U-Uniform
V-Victor
W-Whiskey
X-Xray
Y-Yankee
Z-Zulu

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


I don't know whats up with OCZ and it's AM3 RAM.

Seems like most of their AM3 RAM right now isn't as good as the others for some reason. Maybe it's just one of those things for them at the moment but with the problems I've seen reported about their AM3 RAM, it's making me wonder here - Mind you my set of AM3 sticks that's not working well right now are also OCZ. I'm thinking Geil, Corsair or Patriot would be a good brand to go with for my next set. 
Crucial sticks aren't listed as compatable with my MB (Haven't checked that lately) and I've even seen posts about them not working with it or that's what I would have bought in the first place. Maybe there's a few that would work now but when I was shopping, there were none.

At least my DDR PC4400's seem to be OK after I thought they were toast and those will get some speed going.


 Depending on the sticks, some Crucial ballistix and Patriot RAM share the same IC's. I believe my set of Vipers are the same IC's as the Ballistix. I think you'd be best served by finding out the approved IC's then choosing the appropriate set. Although, that is kind of a pain in the butt.

EDIT: I've been thinking of writing up a somewhat comprehensive AM3 overclocking guide. I helped a fellow out in another post, and kind of did a rough walk through of what and how to do it. A lot of people seemed to find it very useful in achieving a better overclock. Is there already a guide that you guys know of on here? Also, 1 more thing, does S&M work with Win7? One of the guys I suggested it to said that he couldn't get it to work; said there was some sort of driver issue.









Thanks guys.


----------



## Tator Tot

*@Black Omega*, you forgot my favorite! Whiskey!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
*@Black Omega*, you forgot my favorite! Whiskey!











No vunder i kant speel.


----------



## redhat_ownage

built this for my DFI NF3









this with a mod bios will alow me upto 4v to the rams
should be fun times


----------



## N2Gaming

Red Hat excuse me for saying this but that image looks like some kind of Electronics class project gone wrong.


----------



## BlackOmega

Hey looks like my 720 is a 939 after all!







Look here check out where it says what socket it is.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hey looks like my 720 is a 939 after all!







Look here check out where it says what socket it is.










Hey look, CPUz being a piece of trash again.

1.5v 3600mhz & not valid....kay CPUz...


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage* 
built this for my DFI NF3

this with a mod bios will alow me upto 4v to the rams
should be fun times

Redhat, veryyyy interesting. I look forward to the results. 4 volts is quite a bit









Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Redhat:


----------



## redhat_ownage

ok ive got a problem
the dfi ouputs a signal between 5V and 7V to the stock vreg for 2.5-3.1V im guessing upto 12V with the modded bios
the vreg im using takes a signal between 3.5v and 5v volts for 2.5-4V
so basically i have to rebuild it with a different regulator
or somehow lower the voltage into the regulator


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey guys I have proof that good deals can be had on Ebay w/regards to new Power supplies. Here is a new Corsair HX1000 that sold for less than $164.50 + 13.90 S/H That's a smoking deal.


----------



## BlackOmega

You know it's probably some Chinese PSU with a fake Corsair sticker on it.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


You know it's probably some Chinese PSU with a fake Corsair sticker on it.


BO, the power supplies from Corsair (seasonic, cwt) are all manufactured in Asia.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
You know it's probably some Chinese PSU with a fake Corsair sticker on it.

Doubt it. All points of the seller (including location) point to him being in the US.

Probably picked it up and didn't use it. Or found it on sale somewhere and is making a few extra.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BO, the power supplies from Corsair (seasonic, cwt) are all manufactured in Asia.

Details.


----------



## N2Gaming

This is not the First one I have seen BO.

There for a while I saw the same power supply on Amazon.com for a little over 185.00 after Rebates and Amazon discount when the buyer applied for their credit card. These power supply prices go up and down like any thing else. You said wait till after chrismat to get a good deal on GPU's your self and you implied the prices always go down after christmas. In any case I don't have any reason to doubt the validity of that Power supply. It would be kind of hard to fake one of those when you call corsair to validate & Register your PSU for warranty. You'll know right then and there if it's a knock off and if it is then you get 100% refund from the seller. I just don't see it being a knock off though. I see these deals on Ebay every once in a while. this one actually was buy now for $185.00 before the bidding started. I have seen a few buy now HX1000 for $185.00 on ebay. They only come around once in a while so if you really want one of those you have to set up a search on ebay to notify you every time one goes for sale.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Joe is the light side and I am the dark side









What?!?!?

More like thlnk3r is the light side, and I'm the HEAVY side.









Like, VERY HEAVY!









I always thought of myself as the Dork Lard of the Sith...


----------



## redhat_ownage

it works!!!
perfectly! omg it works like it was made like this its beautiful








i now have voltage selection from 2.5V to 4V

i will get a pic of the setup
how i hooked it up: drain to 5VSB, gate to gate on the dram vreg, source to the solder pad that feed the ram after you desolder and lift the leg on the old one.

edit: pic


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
What?!?!?

More like thlnk3r is the light side, and I'm the HEAVY side.









Like, VERY HEAVY!









I always thought of myself as the Dork Lard of the Sith...









Like this?












EDIT: Redhat that's nuts! lol! Nice work. Some nice results too I see.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 

GRID is actually a nice game and yes Hueristi it actualy has in cab view as well as front bmpr, hood, rear and further back rear view camera positions.


















Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Hey fellas, did you hear? thlnk3r is a senior mod now! WOOT Congrats man!







































Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
When things settle down there, I'll let you guys know so you can check it out and let me know what you think.


















Quote:


Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage* 
it works!!!

I see you got it. I didn't have keyboard handy yesterday but I was gonna recommend emitter side Pot. you should be able to adjust without rebooting.
Nice joib and +REP.
Also I would stand those vrm's and add some sinks and possibly active cooling. Depending on the chips the heat disipation will be on the base side rather than the packageing. IIRC newer vrm's have 80% packagine side. Have fun I love to watch this stuff. I don't get to do it much anymore.


----------



## Blitz6804

Wait wait wait... is that DDR-500 *2-2-2-5*!? WIN!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Details.









BO, details on the manufacturing locations?

Seasonic: http://www.seasonic.com/profile/factory.jsp
Channel Well Technology: http://www.cwt.com.tw/english/1_about/1_detail.php?ID=6

Quote:


Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage* 
it works!!!
perfectly! omg it works like it was made like this its beautiful








i now have voltage selection from 2.5V to 4V

Redhat, that is sweet! +1 for that mod. Good job


----------



## ny_driver

sorry to interrupt, but I have a couple questions about my new cpu. I got the opty180(turns out a CCBWE also) and the core contact freezer......I've reseated the cpu and heatsink a couple times now(took the whole motherboard out this morning so I could do it right)...the cores are idling about 34c but when I run S&M at stock settings the test gets interrupted because of reaching 68.5c during the fpu test. yesterday I had too much TIM on there......today I spread as thin a layer as I could only on the HS itself with a plastic card and the idle temps are lower and very even(33c now). I'm not sure if maybe this core contact freezer isn't all it's cracked up to be or what the deal is, but I'm pretty sure I've got the HS on pretty good now. Shouldn't be getting so hot. Any ideas?

EDIT: now it's idling at 29-31c with the side covers on. maybe it needs to burn in some? I don't know.


----------



## thlnk3r

Ny_driver, it's possible that either the cooler or the IHS may not be completely flat. Surfaces that are convex/concave will prevent poor contact thus resulting in cooling issues. If the surfaces are also scratched or dinged then that can cause issues as well. To fix the problem users will usually lap both the cooler and processor. For more details on this process check out this link: http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...ltake-big.html.

Just FYI you do not have to spread the TIM across the IHS. The "die" is on the middle of the wafer so technically that is all that needs to be cooled. For your reference here is the application instructions straight from Arctic Silver: http://www.arcticsilver.com/ins_route_step2amdas5.html.

Remember pressure from mounting the cooler will evenly spread the TIM so don't worry about manually spreading it.

Hope that helps


----------



## N2Gaming

Did you lap the HSF or CPU yet? I have not heard any thing about that cooler NY Driver so I did some research and found some reviews. After looking at 4 reviews and only finding one review that actually compares it to another cooler on the market I have come to the conclusion this cooler is a mid end cooler at best for the price.  HERE is the review I settled on to give me this information. Now I know not all reviews are trustworthy as they can be somewhat biased in favor of or against any particular piece of hardware which could also be depending on what's going on behind the scenes and how much influence global market and advertising has over the review. For me usually when I read a review and it lacks substance or comparisons it tells me either one the product is not all it's cracked up to be or the person giving the review is being nice and leaving out things they feel could make the product look bad. I saw a couple of reviews like this on this product.

Don't get me wrong I'm not saying you got a bad product and it would not do you, me or any one else any just to make such a claim w/out ever using it for my self.

I personally never liked any coolers w/an open heat pipe design but that just me. What TIM are you using w/your cooler? If your using AS5 then you may have to run a lot of heat up cool down cycles to make the TIM set it before you see your max cooling properties. I don't know if all this helps but it sure did make my day go by while writing it.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Ny_driver, it's possible that either the cooler or the IHS may not be completely flat. Surfaces that are convex/concave will prevent poor contact thus resulting in cooling issues. If the surfaces are also scratched or dinged then that can cause issues as well. To fix the problem users will usually lap both the cooler and processor. For more details on this process check out this link: http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...ltake-big.html.

Just FYI you do not have to spread the TIM across the IHS. The "die" is on the middle of the wafer so technically that is all that needs to be cooled. For your reference here is the application instructions straight from Arctic Silver: http://www.arcticsilver.com/ins_route_step2amdas5.html.

Remember pressure from mounting the cooler will evenly spread the TIM so don't worry about manually spreading it.

Hope that helps


Yeah I don't know what I was thinking.....I know the core is in the center, but I guess I was trying for as even as possible contact between the IHS and HS....I have printed directions from AS5...but the cooler says use twice as much for some reason and I tried that but didn't like the results. It "seems" to be making good contact now(idling at 30-31c @ +300MHz/ stock volts)...the surfaces look flat and new/unscratched. Thanks for the advice...if it persists at running too hot under testing I guess I'll have to take out the mobo again and follow AS5 instructions. the AC freezer was kind of a pain to mount, but this thing is impossible.:swearing:EDIT: a pair of pliers helps a lot.

EDIT: N2Gaming I have not lapped either yet and am using AS5... I also read some reviews and decided it should definitely be a good jump better than my ACfreezer64pro...... maybe I concluded wrong.


----------



## Blitz6804

Arctic Silver 5 requires a 200 hour burn-in period to get the best temperatures according to Arctic Silver. I see the largest change in the first 50-100 hours. Remember, this time period requires having the computer off for a while to let the CPU return to room temperature. If your CPU runs cooler with the doors on than off, your case is properly functioning in my opinion.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


EDIT: N2Gaming I have not lapped either yet and am using AS5... I read some reviews and decided it should definitely be a good jump better than my ACfreezer64pro...... maybe I concluded wrong.


I would not jump to that conclusion just yet. I would try a few things first before thowing in the towel. The cooler looks like it has potential.

Regarding your AS5. Be very carefull using that stuff as it is conductive and could cause circuits to short out if you accidentally get some on them. This is one of the primary reasons I will never use AS5 not to mention the long cure time before you truly know what your final temps will settle at.

I prefer Arctic Cooling's MX-2 but there are many out there like OCZ Freez. Zalman's grease in a bottle w/bruch applicator is not to shabby either.

I think you may have a couple of things in combonation working against you w/this CPU/HSF combo atm.

Check the surfaces of both CPU & HSF so see if they are flat. Do you have a flat edge rule or anthing else like a piece of flat glass that you can use to determine if the mating surfaces are flat. Oh yeah also as thinker mentioned if you have scratches that you feel w/your findernails then you may need a lap job to creat more surface contact for improved cooling.

On another note: I am Prime Stable at 3.5GHz and DDR-1000 w/8G of Ram in P95 Temps never breached 50C


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


On another note: I am Prime Stable at 3.5GHz and DDR-1000 w/8G of Ram in P95 Temps never breached 50C


N2Gaming, right on man! Looking good


----------



## Blitz6804

Impressive N2Gaming.

I personally have swapped from Arctic Silver 5 to OCZ Freeze Extreme. The latter is about 1Âº C better than Arctic Silver 5 and has no burn-in period. Only problems with it are (1) the cost and (2) it is a little harder to apply.


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks Thlnk3r & blitz.

I have not tried OCZ Freez yet but I was quite dissapointed when I got my MX-2 from the egg. I opened the package when I got it w/anticipation like a kid at chrismas time but once the tube was in my hand I felt sad and said out loud to myself " That's it " like that Bon Jovi song where the girl says " That's it " Yeah I felt robbed I tell you, because there is not enough TIM in the tube for what I paid. So yes I agree this stuff is expensive. I'd like to find a 30gram or similar size tube Of MX-2 but don't think I would use that much any time soon to justify the cost.


----------



## Tator Tot

All TIM's are expensive. But most of the time, you are buying TIM at almost cost.

Also, MX-2 gives you MORE TIM for LESS MONEY than AS5. (Going off MSRP for price.)

The winner is cost/amount of decent TIM is AS Ceramique though. But we only really use that for DICE/LN2 runs because MX-*/Freeze/AS5 and a number of other TIMs crystallize after a certain thermal threshold. (Not the same temp for each TIM)

MX-2 = 4Grams $8
AS5 = 3.5Grams $8
OCZ Freeze Extreme = 3 Grams $6
ICD7 = 1.5 Grams $7
ICD24 = 4.8 Grams $20
MX-3 = 4 Grams $13
AS Ceramique = 22Grams $10


----------



## N2Gaming

Good info Tator. Rep +


----------



## Tator Tot

Thanks man.

Price/Performance I always put my money on MX-2. In my tests, I got across the board (Athlon 64 x2 4000+ @ 3.0, Opty 185 @ 3.0, E8400 @ 4.0, Q8200 @ 3.4, Phenom x4 9950 @ 3.2) a 1*C difference.

While some might call that a margin of error, I have a feeling if 5 maxed out CPU's are all calling it on load & idle, then I might be onto something.

Though, OCZ Freeze & MX-2 are both 1 Gram for $2, and with the difference, it usually comes down to whats available.

Arctic Cooling has started including MX-3 on all it's newer products (AC Freezer 7 Pro Rev2 known for sure) so I really love the company for that. They use a thicker layer, but even after re-apply of MX-2 to my AC Freezer 64 Pro, I saw no change in my amount vs there amount as far as temps were concerned So they are obviously doing something right.


----------



## thlnk3r

Good info above Tator









Interesting enougn my H50 came with shin etsu applied to the base already. So far my temps during load have been great!


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Good info above Tator









*Interesting enougn my H50 came with shin etsu* applied to the base already. So far my temps during load have been great!


Really? How do you know it was Shin Etsu? Do you know which one?

Also,I forgot to include in my TIM list, @ $3/Gram Shin Etsu G751 (IE: The famous well performing stuff) is available on New Egg, rebranded as a Masscool product. Just showing you that you can never judge a book by its name.









EDIT: Both Shin Etsu TIMs (G751 linked above, and X23 perform well.)

Shin Etsu X23 is for lapped surfaces
Shin Etsu G751 is for unlapped/uneven/rigid surfaces. IE: Delided CPU's, NB/SB, & GPU's without IHS's benefit most from this stuff.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Really? How do you know it was Shin Etsu? Do you know which one?


Tator, I'm not sure which Shin Etsu it is.

Reference: http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1025/2/

Quote:



On the bottom of the CPU block we can see that it comes with Shin-Etsu thermal paste pre applied.



A post from a user:

Quote:



Did some research and found out that Corsair use Shin-Etsu *X23-7783D* so I ordered that.


This stuff sounds expensive hehe


----------



## Tator Tot

If they are using X23-7783D I am dissapointed in Corsair.

G751 is a much better paste for unlapped surfaces.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
If they are using X23-7783D I am dissapointed in Corsair.

G751 is a much better paste for unlapped surfaces.

Tator, wow G751 is only $3 at Newegg


----------



## N2Gaming

It saddens me to think that I still could not get an overclocked account by my 5800th Post.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
It saddens me to think that I still could not get an overclocked account by my 5800th Post.









soon


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Tator, wow G751 is only $3 at Newegg









Only 1 Gram though...









Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
It saddens me to think that I still could not get an overclocked account by my 5800th Post.









Haha, you're not to far off man.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Only 1 Gram though...









Tator, is the application method with Shin the same as AS5?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator, is the application method with Shin the same as AS5?


Usually you drop a dot in the center and spread it with a credit card.


----------



## BlackOmega

AS5 is good paste although with both of my 939 rigs I noticed 3C idle and 7C load temp drops when I tested ICD7 for them (tested on my opty 180 and my 3500+). 
OCZ freeze is pretty good too, better than AS5 and not as good as ICD7 IMHO.

As for lapped surfaces, I hav actually found that the thickier pastes like ICD7, AS5, OCZ freeze actually inhibit the heat transfer somewhat. From my personal testing I have found that the tn runny white pigeon poop TIM actually works the best, go figure.

As for application techniques, I have tried everything from spreading it with a credit to spreading it with my finger to pea size drop to the rice grain size drop. I have concluded that simply applying an appropriate size droplet in the center is the most effective (this does not apply to heatpipe direct contact coolers, those need 2 lines applied directly to the cooler itself).

I have yet to try any shinetsu grease, but going by their automotive products, they make VERY high quality products that work very well. Next time I get a chance, I'll pick some up, maybe when I get another cooler







then it'll be cooler shootout time.









PS: On a side not; regarding IHS's, so far every AMD IHS that I have measured with a straightedge has been concave. That includes my 720, opty165 and 180, 3500+. Never got a chance to measure the 3800x2 as it came lapped. IMO, lapping is well worth the effort if you're wanting a better overclock.


----------



## N2Gaming

I tried to get overclocked by post 5800 but you know how it is w/all the newbs that don't even know what rep is for.

I'm finished w/my stress test in P95 w/well over 12hrs stable.


















Edit: @ Tator, yeah CPU-Z failz. I too has a 3500MHz socketed 939 on a AM3 chip LOL.


----------



## Tator Tot

@BlackOmega, Shin Etsu X23 is a very thin paste, which is why it's designed for lapped surfaces.

G751 is thicker (like MX-2/Freeze/AS5) and thus designed to fill in buldges and dips.


----------



## BlackOmega

I'll have to try out that X23 when I get a chance most likely when I get my new 965 C3, which of course will receive the lapping treatment.

@ thlnk3r, what are your impressions of the H50 thus far? I have heard lots of very good things about it and am contemplating getting it, if it really does cool as well as is claimed.

PS: Woot just noticed that my account is overclocked now.









Don't worry N2, you're only 2 REP away from overclocked, or is it 1?


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
@ thlnk3r, what are your impressions of the H50 thus far? I have heard lots of very good things about it and am contemplating getting it, if it really does cool as well as is claimed.

BO, so far I am happy with the purchase. Installation was a breeze. Idle @ 22C Load @ 44C (3.3Ghz 1.4volts). This is a 620 btw. Room ambients were 23C. I did not lap my 620...yet. I'm kind of curious how my other 620 clocks. I'm happy with the NB Frequency and memory timings...just not the cpu clocks on this one.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 

PS: Woot just noticed that my account is overclocked now.









Don't worry N2, you're only 2 REP away from overclocked, or is it 1?









Oh you kidder you. I think for the most part like 98 percent of my reps were earned the OCN way while others were given in a manner that I don't condone but never the less I can't give em back so I guess I'll take em. Yap I'm only one away now. Wohooooooooooooooo.









Edit: I now has OC'd OCN account. Yeaya...


----------



## FnkDctr

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
As for application techniques, I have tried everything from spreading it with a credit to spreading it with my finger to pea size drop to the rice grain size drop. I have concluded that simply applying an appropriate size droplet in the center is the most effective

Your finger? Shouldn't that be like the last thing you want to use? The dirt and oils from your skin are definately not a good idea between a processor and heat sink.

Also, I found the drop and squish technique to be inconsistant. Also, it rarely covers 100% of the cpu surface.

I use a piece of plastic to smear it all over the cpu in a thin layer. Works great, both cpus are even in temps.

EDIT: I would also like to ask if we could keep this forum related to socket 939. I dont mind the occasional talk about other cpus. but posting screenshots, talking about settings that are not related?


----------



## spiderm0nkey

A 939 club! I have only just upgraded from my 939 setup. A DFI Lanparty NF4 SLI-DR Expert with an Opteron 165 Dual core clocked from 1.8-2.8Ghz. Unfortunately I had a wee spill of water on the mobo that I didn't pick up on which dried on a patch of voltage regulators and resulted in the RAM being undervolted, then overvolted and then finally fried.

939 is a damn good and solid platform though. My last setup was incredibly stable and could run almost any game on high with a good fps.


----------



## 113802

My last system was a 754 3200+ venice(2.2Ghz) core with a DFI lanparty UT nf3 250GB that I overclocked to 3ghz(Insane for a 754) I scored like a 4k on vantage with a 2600xt. Old systems used to be so fun to overclock.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FnkDctr*


Your finger? Shouldn't that be like the last thing you want to use? The dirt and oils from your skin are definately not a good idea between a processor and heat sink.

Also, I found the drop and squish technique to be inconsistant. Also, it rarely covers 100% of the cpu surface.

I use a piece of plastic to smear it all over the cpu in a thin layer. Works great, both cpus are even in temps.

EDIT: I would also like to ask if we could keep this forum related to socket 939. I dont mind the occasional talk about other cpus. but posting screenshots, talking about settings that are not related?


 Sorry about being rather vague, when I used my finger it was wrapped in plastic. TIM can be a pain in the arse to get off of your skin.

And the drop in the center I have found to be very consistent. Here's the key to applying it: 

1.) Apply drop of your preference in the center of the die.
2.) Put cooler on the CPU.
3.) Press down (fairly hard) on the cooler itself.
4.) Turn the cooler slightly back and forth (I mean VERY slightly no more than ~30* if that much).
5.) Attach retention mechanism.
 Every CPU that I've used that method on (with the exception of HDT coolers), the TIM covers the IHS almost perfectly. The key is to press down on it before you retain it. 
When I was testing ICD7 for IC (there's a thread on here somewhere), a lot of people had issues with it spreading properly. ICD7 is a VERY thick paste that doesn't spread easily, you absolutely MUST push down on it to get it to spread. If you don't temps WILL suck.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*









A 939 club! I have only just upgraded from my 939 setup. A DFI Lanparty NF4 SLI-DR Expert with an Opteron 165 Dual core clocked from 1.8-2.8Ghz. Unfortunately I had a wee spill of water on the mobo that I didn't pick up on which dried on a patch of voltage regulators and resulted in the RAM being undervolted, then overvolted and then finally fried.

939 is a damn good and solid platform though. My last setup was incredibly stable and could run almost any game on high with a good fps.










That's the exact reason why I haven't ventured in to the watercooling territory. However, with the H50 coming out and seeing all of the good results, I might just have to give it a shot. Although, I don't think it would help the noise level of my rig since these dang GPUs' are so freakin loud. They sound like freakin dustbusters. :swearing:

But yeah the DFI 939 boards are AWESOME! I still have 2, and what a pleasure it is to overclock on them.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *WannaBeOCer*


My last system was a 754 3200+ venice(2.2Ghz) core with a DFI lanparty UT nf3 250GB that I overclocked to 3ghz(Insane for a 754) I scored like a 4k on vantage with a 2600xt. Old systems used to be so fun to overclock.


 Very nice. You should go back a page or 2, redhat just made some sort of separate voltage regulator for his DFI NF3 board. He says that it can take the RAM voltage to 4v.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*









That's the exact reason why I haven't ventured in to the watercooling territory. However, with the H50 coming out and seeing all of the good results, I might just have to give it a shot. Although, I don't think it would help the noise level of my rig since these dang GPUs' are so freakin loud. They sound like freakin dustbusters. :swearing:

But yeah the DFI 939 boards are AWESOME! I still have 2, and what a pleasure it is to overclock on them.











The only reason it leaked was because I had the board down horizontally on my desk as I was going to paint the case. The clamps were tight enough to stop the water from leaking when the board was vertical but not when it was horizontal







It was unfortunate and something that really doesn't happen that often at all. It's very rare to ever have a water leak on the motherboard when everything is in the case. GPU maybe but it's easy to see and you can clean it off quick so that it doesn't do any damage.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Very nice. You should go back a page or 2, redhat just made some sort of separate voltage regulator for his DFI NF3 board. He says that it can take the RAM voltage to 4v.

















I'll have to try that with my 754 to see if I can reach 3.2 with it - Well maybe NOT but I'll give it a shot anyway for gits and shiggles.









Yes, 939 is an excellent platform and is alot like Socket A was/is for OC'ing to me. Of course I still run all of these from time to time and once I get around to fixing my WC'ing setup, I'll see what else I can pull off.

BTW WannaBeOCer, 3.0 from any 754 chip is a great overclock. May I assume you still have it?

I also noted the earlier discussion on TIM. I use MX-2 for whatever I'm doing and all runs you guys have seen from me have been with it. It really is the best value for the $$ that I've found.


----------



## redhat_ownage

ok i screwed up...
ok remember when i said i had 2 nf4 sli's on the way? well i dident tell you that the original owner couldent get them started
ok well i got them today one of them has a bad NB instant 1million degrees on it ok so thats fine theres one more.
that one started and gave the long beep for bad memory ok so i weas looking around at it for what it could be and found 3 traces on the back of the board gouged, ok fixed that
still no boot....
then i noticed a burnt trace on the bottom of the board, i jumpered that with a wire and presto 1 beep but i dident have a videocard in it because i dont trust it, it broke for a reason. so i start checking the voltages on all the chips and every thing checks out, until i tested that burn trace....
ok ive got shaky hands and i know this and i shold have known better than to try to check a trace between the pins on the back of a pci slot
instant death 4 red lights








uggg now i need another one
40 bux wasted


----------



## Blitz6804

BlackOmega: Isn't ICD7 supposed to be preheated before being used to decrease its viscosity?


----------



## ny_driver

geeezz.. it's one thing after another with me. I shut the system down like normal last night. Now I go to fire up the pc this morning and it's dead. First thing I do is unhook the PSU from everything and test to see if it will start by jumpering pins 15 & 16, which it won't do. So I'm wondering how my PSU could have died in the night.....it was working fine. I'm looking for some suggestions. Thanks guys.


----------



## Blitz6804

Play Lotto? With the obscure luck you have been having, there is a chance...


----------



## SpykeZ

*sigh* My trust 939 rig is finally about to be retired. Since I built it 4-5 years ago it's been doing an amazing job with keeping up with anything and everything gaming related.

Think I'll use it as a backup gaming system when I have a friend come over or something, or run it folding while I sleep.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


geeezz.. it's one thing after another with me. I shut the system down like normal last night. Now I go to fire up the pc this morning and it's dead. First thing I do is unhook the PSU from everything and test to see if it will start by jumpering pins 15 & 16, which it won't do. So I'm wondering how my PSU could have died in the night.....it was working fine. I'm looking for some suggestions. Thanks guys.


Ny_drive, sorry to hear that. Have you tried testing with a different power supply? Perhaps I've asked this before but did you have your machine plugged directly into a wall outlet? Without power filtration it's quite possible that a surge/dirty power may have damaged your PSU.

Good luck


----------



## Blitz6804

Most 939 rigs are more than capable as HTPCs (but there are some heat issues) or as a file server. At the very least, there are many schools and not-for-profit organizations would love to have computing hardware that is likely far superior to whatever they have. (I have seen some still running Win 95 or older.) Furthermore, charitable contributions are tax deductible.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Ny_drive, sorry to hear that. Have you tried testing with a different power supply? Perhaps I've asked this before but did you have your machine plugged directly into a wall outlet? Without power filtration it's quite possible that a surge/dirty power may have damaged your PSU.

Good luck

it was plugged in to a power strip. I tested with a different PSU(it's definitely the PSU)
how do I figure out how much PSU I actually need for what I have...dual core 939, x1950pro,1cd, 1dvd, 1floppy, 1 HD, and a few fans?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
I also noted the earlier discussion on TIM. I use MX-2 for whatever I'm doing and all runs you guys have seen from me have been with it. It really is the best value for the $$ that I've found.

Put it under -273*C and your MX-2 will look like someone put sugar on your CPU for thermal paste









I do love MX-2, I have 4 tubes at my desk, with another one just shy of being empty. 1 more CPU or 2 more GPU's out of it.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
BlackOmega: Isn't ICD7 supposed to be preheated before being used to decrease its viscosity?

Yeah, you are supposed to run it under warm water for a few seconds before applying it.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
*Most 939 rigs are more than capable as HTPCs* (but there are some heat issues) or as a file server.

I think that's what Thlnk3rs going to retire his too.
I wouldn't say there will be to many heat issues, as an HTPC you can lower the voltage and such. Which really cuts down on K8's heat output.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
it was plugged in to a power strip. I tested with a different PSU(it's definitely the PSU)
how do I figure out how much PSU I actually need for what I have...dual core 939, x1950pro,1cd, 1dvd, 1floppy, 1 HD, and a few fans?

Ny_driver, all of that will run perfectly fine on a 450VX (450w 33 amps): http://www.newegg.com/product/produc...82E16817139003. Always go for quality and not price. I would stay away from the 500watt $20 power supplies









Hope that helps


----------



## Blitz6804

Considering the PSU is one of the few things connecting your PC to the outside world (like tires on a car) it is always a bad idea to scrimp. As thlnk3r suggests, quality will win over price every single time.


----------



## ny_driver

how about this used for $45 shipped ?
http://www.newegg.com/product/produc...ATT=17-194-005


----------



## Blitz6804

Assuming I have the right UL Lookup, nothing seems out of the ordinary:










Price seems a bit high to me though.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


how about this used for $45 shipped ?
http://www.newegg.com/product/produc...ATT=17-194-005


I have one very similar to this one in my daily driver machine. I have a 8600GTS, 3500+, 2x1G OCZ Platinum, 2 WD HDD's, Flppy drive & DVD drive and it runs just fine w/all that hardware but my system has been locking up lately and my SATA ports act up every once in a while. I have to turn my power supply off from the switch on the psu and back on again before I can get my system to post. I suspect the power supply failing but have not taken the time to properly diagnose it. Back in 2005 when I got my PSU a lot of reviews said that this was a very good power supply for the time/money.

Edit: Actually I have the same exact PSU. I just looked at mine it's the same exact one. It has lasted me since 2005. I don't use it 24/7 though and it just sits in stand by mode for the most part waiting to be used/loved.


----------



## ny_driver

Probably going to be $10-15 for shipping, so it seems like a pretty good deal to me. To get something new that is comparable would cost me a lot more. 
EDIT: I'm buying it, it'll be here in 3 days tops.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Probably going to be $10-15 for shipping, so it seems like a pretty good deal to me. To get something new that is comparable would cost me a lot more.


How well do you know the person your getting it from. Like I said I think mine may be failing me and from all the reviews on the egg I would not have bought mine in this day and age. Maybe they revised the power supplies since I got mine and the ones so many people on the Egg are having problems with. Honestly though. I don't want to sound rude but it seems like your throwing your money away man... Get a decent power supply that still has a warranty if your gonna get a used power supply. At least this way your covered if it's failing or fails on you shortly after owning it. I picked up a couple of corsair HX620's on ebay for about $80.00 each and they are rock solid power supplies.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


BlackOmega: Isn't ICD7 supposed to be preheated before being used to decrease its viscosity?


 It's suggested but not required. Although it is A LOT easier to apply after it's been heated. I used to set my tube in to a cup of boiling water for about 5 minutes. Even then it was still very thick.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Considering the PSU is one of the few things connecting your PC to the *outside world (like tires on a car)* it is always a bad idea to scrimp. As thlnk3r suggests, quality will win over price every single time.


 Smart man.







Too many people just put the bare minimum in/on and expect it to perform like the more expensive product. Then complain when it doesn't.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Too many people just put the bare minimum in/on and expect it to perform like the more expensive product. Then complain when it doesn't.

















I'm so guilty of this from time to time but not w/my PC gear as of late.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


how about this used for $45 shipped ?
http://www.newegg.com/product/produc...ATT=17-194-005


If you could spare the extra bits, for $55 shipped, you can pick up a Rosewill Green Series 530watt. 
It'll be a better PSU around, roughly the same voltage regulation and ripple supression, but with better efficiency, and a higher 12v rating. (420watts (enermax) vs 492watts (rosewill)


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


*$55.98 shipped.* 
(rosewill)


Fixed.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*
















I'm so guilty of this from time to time but not w/my PC gear as of late.










 Most of the time you can get away with using the cheaper stuff, however, there's some areas I wont skimp on tires and power supplies a couple of them.

Tires obviously because that's the only that contacts the outside world, I sure as hell wouldn't trust my life to a set of cheapo tires, I run Michelin Pilot XGT H4's in the snow and Michelin Pilot HXMXM4's in the summer. I learned a long time ago exactly how important they are and have never forgotten it. Losing control on a slippery surface will do that to you.

As for power supplies, well I haven't had any bad experiences really, my 5 year old Antec dying was hardly bad. But after reading through enough horror stories about crappy PSU's dying and taking everything with them, I'll stick to the higher quality product.

If I had to compare putting a cheapo PSU in a nice rig it would be like building a super badass hotrod/tuner and running crappy gas/oil. Almost defeats the purpose.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
If I had to compare putting a cheapo PSU in a nice rig it would be like building a super badass hotrod/tuner and running crappy gas/oil. Almost defeats the purpose.

Agreed.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I tried to get overclocked by post 5800 but you know how it is w/all the newbs that don't even know what rep is for.


Lol, congrats on being Overclocked!
I'm on my way to getting there too







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
Lol, congrats on being Overclocked!
I'm on my way to getting there too







.

Thanks. You know to be honest when I was trying to get rep I hardly ever got any and when I was just doing my normal good deads I got more that way. go figure...









Your that not far away.


----------



## FnkDctr

I dunno how I even got any rep. Hmmm. didnt know it mattered


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FnkDctr* 
I dunno how I even got any rep. Hmmm. didnt know it mattered

Well rep is give for a number of reasons but it's meant to show others that you are beneficial to OCN vs just some one who flames & Trolls and post off topic's all the time.


----------



## nategr8ns

I don't really "try" to help people







. I just check the new threads every once in a while for questions and I try to answer them.
Can't wait until I get a custom user title







.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FnkDctr*


I dunno how I even got any rep. Hmmm.


 Me either.









(I kid, I kid).

Basically what N2 said about REP, there are a couple of bonuses like being able to buy/sell stuff once you hit 35 REP.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FnkDctr*


I dunno how I even got any rep. Hmmm. didnt know it mattered


FnkDctr, being helpful to other members will help build your reputation. However though it's all up to the user you are helping to rep you. Provide support, be helpful and more importantly be kind. Having a professional response (correct grammar, being detailed ect) will go a long way.

Don't forget to check the unanswered threads as well. When I finished going through all four sections I immediately started checking the unanswered threads. Mind you I was able to do all of this before I became extremely busy at work with projects and operation tasks









Hope that helps


----------



## N2Gaming

FD you may find this thread useful and very informative.


----------



## Tator Tot

For mass +REP accumulation, I would suggest actually removing your brain, replacing it with atleast a low end dual core and basic GPU, and then increase your internal storage by removing your digestive track and replacing that stuff with HDD's and what not.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


For mass +REP accumulation, I would suggest actually removing your brain, replacing it with atleast a low end dual core and basic GPU, and then increase your internal storage by removing your digestive track and replacing that stuff with HDD's and what not.


Tator, that sounds more like assimilation (ie. the Borg)


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


For mass +REP accumulation, I would suggest actually removing your brain, replacing it with atleast a low end dual core and basic GPU, and then increase your internal storage by removing your digestive track and replacing that stuff with HDD's and what not.


LOL that reminds me. I heard about a Robotic Passionate lover over the radio earlier today. The Robot was suppose to be a get this "Sex Partner" and I'm sure if she could post on this forum she would accru tons of Rep+







With all of here Processing Power, Storage, Slots and other PC realted junk in her trunk...


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Tator, that sounds more like assimilation (ie. the Borg)










Wanna join?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


LOL that reminds me. I heard about a Robotic Passionate lover over the radio earlier today. The Robot was suppose to be a get this "Sex Partner" and I'm sure if she could post on this forum she would accru tons of Rep+







With all of here Processing Power, Storage, Slots and other PC realted junk in her trunk...










 That made me







.

I could just see it, DUDE SHE'S GOT 24 i9'S!!!!!!128GB RAM!!!!!







REP++++++++++++++++


----------



## FnkDctr

I find it more rewarding on yahoo answers where people actually choose or vote for best answers. over 50% best answer rate on that website. Here I find it to be more opinion than fact.


----------



## BlackOmega

Never really go to it, but occasionally google takes me there and sometimes the answers are useful sometimes it sounds like whoever wrote it doesn't know their ass from a hole in the ground. It seems very hit or miss.

And the REP system actually works pretty well. A lot of my REPs are due to actually helping someone out. Some are for similar views and good points brought to topics at hand. 
As others have said, it is solely up to the person you're helping to give it to you. Although, some new users, and other users with very low rep/post ratio's might not know how the system works. I don't think it's wrong to inform them of how the system works.


----------



## FnkDctr

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Never really go to it, but occasionally google takes me there and sometimes the answers are useful sometimes it sounds like whoever wrote it doesn't know their ass from a hole in the ground. It seems very hit or miss.

Same as OCN?

I've gotten much better answers on their than guru3d and OCN. I think you just need to look at the persons best answer % and specialty. Here people give rep for saying a chic is hot lol.


----------



## Menace

You will find human errors everywhere, but if you feel safer/better with the answers there then that's cool







. As long as you get the answer you're looking for then there's no problem.


----------



## Blitz6804

Sorry about the delay, I was driving home. When I installed my Mega Shadow, I noted that my processor ends in A90015.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Sorry about the delay, I was driving home. When I installed my Mega Shadow, I noted that my processor ends in A90015.









That's a Nice cut.

The A is not relavent to the info we're getting from the 90015.








I think A was stated to just deal with which wafer it came from (as they make more than one wafer at a time.) But I could be wrong.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Sorry about the delay, I was driving home. When I installed my Mega Shadow, I noted that my processor ends in A90015.


Blitz, is this on your 940? Dude that is beautiful man! Tator and HondaGuy are the only two that I know of that have had below 90010


----------



## Blitz6804

Why is my overclocking with it so disappointing then? Switching to the Mega Shadow, my idle is identical, but my load is 46Âº C in FPU instead of 51Âº C. This is winter time however, and real overclocking tests will need to wait for summer. Currently, I only have one fan in a pull configuration. (Mounting in a push configuration would prohibit a RAM upgrade to anything that is a non-standard DIMM.)


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Why is my overclocking with it so disappointing then? Switching to the Mega Shadow, my idle is identical, but my load is 46Âº C in FPU instead of 51Âº C. This is winter time however, and real overclocking tests will need to wait for summer. Currently, I only have one fan in a pull configuration. (Mounting in a push configuration would prohibit a RAM upgrade to anything that is a non-standard DIMM.)

Well that Die cut is relative to NB, but like stepping, its only an indication of what's most likely. And not a 100% guarantee.

Though, Die Cut also seems to relate to higher HT clocks as well. IE, the lower the number cut, the easier they are able to raise the HT Clock. As some chips really don't like HT over a certain level, while others do.

With that die cut, you should stay in the 2600-2700NB range to be safe.
Though, with your DFI (as I think it lacks the CPU-NB voltage option) that might be easier said than done.

As for your CPU Overclock, do you happen to know which stepping you have, and what your Batch number is? (Should read like 0933EPBW )

09 Indicates 2009
33 = 33rd Week of the first two digits (2009)
EPBW relates to which fab it came from.


----------



## redhat_ownage

does anyone know of anyone that can replace the BGA northbrige on my sli-dr?
i have the 2 dead boards one with a bad chipset and the other has lots of problems but the chipset functions, any help would be great.

i was thinking of just making somthing to grab the chipset on all 4 sides as i heat the back of the board with a heat gun

or i can wait till i have 35 reps and post a wanted ad for a sli-dr probly wont happen soon


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*


or run it folding while I sleep.



















Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Put it under -273*C and your MX-2 will look like someone put sugar on your CPU for thermal paste










I think you meant 1.9K.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage*


does anyone know of anyone that can replace the BGA northbrige on my sli-dr?...


BGA cannot as of yet be replaced without specialized equipment. You can reflow the chip as it is more than likely the bga solder and not the chip. I did it on my tyan tomcat but it only lasted a few months until I rebooted. I you decide to (Why not?), get a heat gun and molding clay. protect the surrounding area heat the chip (not the bottom pcb) to 290*f* wait 10 minutes for the area to cool down. To check the temp you can use a laser thermonitor. Heat gun and therm can be had at harbor freight for $30 on a good day.


----------



## Blitz6804

All: I am a little disappointed with the Mega Shadow. For being supposedly such a good cooler, it really does not seem to cool that much better than what I had.

Tator Tot: It is in my sig: CACVC AC 0852APCW. Also Tator, would there be much of a difference between a single fan in a push config as compared to a single fan in a pull config? Would it be better to get one in a pull with good oversided RAM, or push/pull with good normal-sized RAM?


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Me either.









(I kid, I kid).

Basically what N2 said about REP, there are a couple of bonuses like being able to buy/sell stuff once you hit 35 REP.


Are you talking about the area where members buy/sell to each other? Cause I just bought a psu and I was only on like 10 at that time.

[edit] you have to have 35 rep to post a thread selling.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


All: I am a little disappointed with the Mega Shadow. For being supposedly such a good cooler, it really does not seem to cool that much better than what I had.


Blitz, if I remember correctly weren't you in the process of performing cable management? It may help the airflow inside after you're done. You'd be very surprised on the difference...


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


All: I am a little disappointed with the Mega Shadow. For being supposedly such a good cooler, it really does not seem to cool that much better than what I had.


Well you're not running a high overclock yet (and as we know, air cooling is limited by it's surrounding temps) and it's possible the fans are partly to blame as well. 
Ultra-Kaze's erally don't have that great of static pressure, and are pretty bottom bin as far as 38mm fans are concerned.

Though, as Thlnk3r said, airflow could be a problem: from what I gathered picture wise you do look a little cluttered in there.
Easiest way to check if this is really a problem, pop the side panel off and start loading up the CPU, then let it setle, put the side panel back on, and load up again. 
Obviously, if you see a rise in temps, it's an airflow problem.

Also, you may want to see if you can tighten your Mega down more. Mine needed a few extra cranks to make it really secure.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Tator Tot: It is in my sig: CACVC AC 0852APCW. Also Tator, would there be much of a difference between a single fan in a push config as compared to a single fan in a pull config? Would it be better to get one in a pull with good oversided RAM, or push/pull with good normal-sized RAM?


Push/Pull with S-Flex G's (similar to, but better than, your Ultra Kaze's) have dropped quiet a few users load temps by 2-3*C 
So I would give that a shot. But most people do not over use 4GB of RAM yet. (I do, but I'm not most people)

Also, from what I have seen, 0850-0853 chips have been able to do 3.7-3.8ghz (just depending) on multiple configurations with just a multi boost in the 1.475-1.5v are (perfectly fine/in spec.)

I'm still sticking by my original NB numbers as well. (2400-2600mhz)

Though, I would see just how high you can get the CPU at first, since we know about your DFI's CPU-NB BIOS limitations.


----------



## Blitz6804

I had S-Flex Fs in my computer. They were about the limit I could tolerate on noise. My current setup has Ultra Kaze 3ks running around 1400 RPM. They are about the same temperature as the S-Flex Fs, but run about 1Âº C cooler when I swapped everything over. My NB has been stable upwards of 2200 MHz in my testing, and the highest CPU overclock I can get on stock voltage is where I am now, 3.5 GHz.


----------



## Tator Tot

Those numbers don't look bad at all. 
Stock Voltage on some newer chips are able to pull 3.6ghz. And if Rumors are true, C3 stepping 975 Black Edition @ 3.6ghz should be coming out, bumping the 965 down to $175, and taking the $195 slot.

But it seems, in stock conditions, 3.5-3.6ghz is the best anyone is able to do. (Obviously with the Opteron style cooler, and not the Aluminum Fin cooler that comes with most CPU's.)

As for S-Flex/Ultra Kaze; in fan testing a 1-2*C margin of error should always be taken into consideration. 
That, or retest the same variables 100 times.







But I much prefer margin of error apposed to re-testing.


----------



## thlnk3r

Blitz, check out this thread. Perhaps that will help motivate you to perform some cable management


----------



## Blitz6804

My cables seriously are not as bad since switching to the HD 5970. I can try to do better later, right now, moving furniture.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Those numbers don't look bad at all. 
Stock Voltage on some newer chips are able to pull 3.6ghz. And if Rumors are true, C3 stepping 975 Black Edition @ 3.6ghz should be coming out, bumping the 965 down to $175, and taking the $195 slot.


Very nice Tator. I think I'll hold out for C4 x4 995 @ 4.0GHz







Oh and there may be hope for a NB multi on my mobo after all. I'm not gonna hold my breath but will cross my fingers.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


My cables seriously are not as bad since switching to the HD 5970. I can try to do better later, right now, moving furniture.


Just pop the side panel and try it that way. Quick and easy.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Very nice Tator. I think I'll hold out for C4 x4 995 @ 4.0GHz







Oh and there may be hope for a NB multi on my mobo after all. I'm not gonna hold my breath but will cross my fingers.










I doubt we'll see a stock 4.0ghz chip.

While Deneb is highly versatile, the chances of pulling a 4.0ghz chip out of the box that can run within all regulations (IE: voltage much be 1.425 or under) is highly unlikely.


----------



## redhat_ownage

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *Hueristic*   BGA cannot as of yet be replaced without specialized equipment. You can reflow the chip as it is more than likely the bga solder and not the chip. I did it on my tyan tomcat but it only lasted a few months until I rebooted. I you decide to (Why not?), get a heat gun and molding clay. protect the surrounding area heat the chip (not the bottom pcb) to 290*f* wait 10 minutes for the area to cool down. To check the temp you can use a laser thermonitor. Heat gun and therm can be had at harbor freight for $30 on a good day.  
this guy does it with just a heat gun and vacuum pump
and reballs it with a soldering iron
but its a much smaller chip than an nf4
  
 



  



 
the NF4 chip that goes to a million degrees instantly has chips in the corners of the die probly why it does not work and the nf4 chip on the other board works fine but my schaky hands killed the lanchip so now it wont boot


----------



## BlackOmega

HEy guys sorry to jump in like this but will a regular Xbox controller work on a PC? Never wanted a controller till now, but I figure I had better find out before committing to one.

Any suggestions as to which controllers are the good to look at, which ones to stay away from, etc.?

THanks guys









PS: I might be putting together an i5 rig shortly







.


----------



## redhat_ownage

yes it will but you will need to find drivers
when you cut open the wire for the controler there will be 4 wires and shielding wire
the color of the wires are the same as usb standards

you will also be able to use the xbox mempack as a super secure thumb drive since very few people will have a reader for it


----------



## BlackOmega

Well I was looking @ a madcats one, will that need a driver also?

It said it was XP ready.


----------



## Blitz6804

My dad has done it. If the cable ends in an XBox plug, you will need to splice and driver. (A 360 controller works natively.)


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
PS: I might be putting together an i5 rig shortly







.

But why and who shall it be for?


----------



## FnkDctr

Finally hit 3ghz









http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=950344

530mhz ram
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=950352


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage*


this guy does it with just a heat gun and vacuum pump


Yes it's doable, As a matter of fact I have a lga 775 removed and awaiting my similar attempt although with the lga socket there are other concerns.

I would still reflow before attempting replacement as chip failure is much less likely than a cold solder joint.

Also don't try this with a 20 dollar heat gun.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FnkDctr*


Finally hit 3ghz


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


But why and who shall it be for?


 Well, I have been folding for team "x" kind of because I got pissed at OCN a while back and partially because they give out credit towards the purchase of their products.

Well so far I have $100 worth of credit, and looking at the GPU selection, I wasn't too thrilled. 
So then I started looking around at their motherboards, and since they're intel only, I just looked at what was available. And well I found that I could get a P55 SLI (micro) board outright for that money. Then after doing a little more research, I've found that I can put an i5 together for ~$300 (i5 750 + low voltage RAM).

I'm doing it out of curiosity, really. I have never OC'd an intel product, so I figure it would be beneficial for me to learn how. I figure this is the perfect way (unless it was totally free







).

So it will be for me. What I really want to do is run a clock for clock comparison.

But the really cool feature about the P55 chipset is that I will be able to run both SLI and CFX.

The dark side has tempted me.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Put it under -273*C and your MX-2 will look like someone put sugar on your CPU for thermal paste..

Why do I "Hear" Def Leppard whenever I read this?









I'm thinking about trying a different TIM sometime soon but MX-2 has worked well so far. I'll probrably never get into extreme cooling so that's really not a big concern here - For now that is.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FnkDctr* 
Finally hit 3ghz









http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=950344

530mhz ram
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=950352

FnkDctr, congrats









+1 for the 3Ghz overclock. How did your stability testing go?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Why do I "Hear" Def Leppard whenever I read this?









I'm thinking about trying a different TIM sometime soon but MX-2 has worked well so far. I'll probrably never get into extreme cooling so that's really not a big concern here - For now that is.


LN2 is not that much.









A pots only $200 on the cheap.


----------



## redhat_ownage

i guess reflowing it in the oven wont hurt but im 100% sure that the chipset is done for.
reflowing it would just be a waste of time and gas
i can try it in the electric oven but i don't think it will get that hot the reflow the solder

this is a pic of the bad chipset









Quote:



Originally Posted by *FnkDctr*


Finally hit 3ghz









http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=950344

530mhz ram
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=950352


nice


----------



## FnkDctr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


FnkDctr, congrats









+1 for the 3Ghz overclock. How did your stability testing go?


I can run 2.92 stable but thats like 1.45 vcore. I usually run 2.75ghz stock vcore on 11xmulti, 250fsb so I get 500mhz 3-3-3-7 1t.

2.86ghz or so requires about 1.40 vcore, and so on. Stable at 3.0ghz? not a chance









I almost bought an opty 165 with ccbbe stepping on ebay, it sold for $63. I might put my old +3400 on this mobo just to see what it can do.

I did set records on the top 20 overclocks

http://www.overclock.net/off-topic/4...-category.html


----------



## JMT668

Just won an Opty 185 what mobo would you all recommend?


----------



## FnkDctr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JMT668*


Just won an Opty 185 what mobo would you all recommend?


Congrats on winning that. I would suggest the dfi or asus sli deluxe. you can find em on ebay sometimes around 70-120


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JMT668* 
Just won an Opty 185 what mobo would you all recommend?

yeah congrats dude!....I just paid $130 for a 180.


----------



## ziju

AMD Athlon 4200+ X2 Socket 939 (Toledo)

Overclocked to 2906 mhz.

Have problem with uploading and posting cpuz info

Cheers!


----------



## ziju

Attachment 137288


----------



## JMT668

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
yeah congrats dude!....I just paid $130 for a 180.

cheers mate! cant wait to get it!


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JMT668*


Just won an Opty 185 what mobo would you all recommend?


JMT668, wow congrats buddy









I'd definitely try and get a hold of a DFI S939 board. I had the SLI-DR board and it was great! It did 300Mhz on stock chipset voltage.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ziju*


AMD Athlon 4200+ X2 Socket 939 (Toledo)

Overclocked to 2906 mhz.

Have problem with uploading and posting cpuz info

Cheers!


Ziju, nice overclock. Well done!

I've added you to the roster with your results

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JMT668*


Just won an Opty 185 what mobo would you all recommend?


 Very nice.









As for a board, I'd _HIGHLY_ recommend pretty much any DFI LanParty UT board, with the exception being the CFX3200-DR.

The CFX3200DR is a good board, however, DFI made some traces wrong (at least that is the popular consensus), and it has a cold boot bug where it will lockup after a few minutes of use (it's usually fine after that).

So look for the DFI lanparty (Ultra-D, SLI-DR, SLI-DR expert, and I believe there was an SLI-D also).

The Asus A8n32 SLI deluxe is also a pretty good board, although from my personal experience the DFI OC A LOT better.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Very nice.









As for a board, I'd _HIGHLY_ recommend pretty much any DFI LanParty UT board, with the exception being the CFX3200-DR (it's usually fine after that).

The CFX3200DR is a good board, however, DFI made some traces wrong (at least that is the popular consensus), and it has a cold boot bug where it will lockup after a few minutes of use.

So look for the DFI lanparty (Ultra-D, SLI-DR, SLI-DR expert, and I believe there was an SLI-D also).

The Asus A8n32 SLI deluxe is also a pretty good board, although from my personal experience the DFI OC A LOT better.

I second the above suggestions.

If you'll look at the roster entries, you'll see what boards can get it done, mainly the DFI's but as stated, the A8N32 SLI Deluxe is a good board as well. Personally I have a DFI SLI-DR Expert I used to get the clocks I have listed in the roster.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


JMT668, wow congrats buddy









I'd definitely try and get a hold of a DFI S939 board. I had the SLI-DR board and it was great! It did 300Mhz on stock chipset voltage.


I got 300 FSB on my Neo2 Platinum on stock chipset voltage, too. I'm not sure if that was before or after it caught on fire







....but, that board is AGP and that's why I bought it. The DFI's look nice.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I got 300 FSB on my Neo2 Platinum on stock chipset voltage, too. I'm not sure if that was before or after it caught on fire







....but, that board is AGP and that's why I bought it. The DFI's look nice.


 FWIW, my DFI's (all 3 of em) can hit roughly 330 before needing any voltage. And on one of those boards, I got it all the way up to 400 with only 1 chipset voltage bump.

PS: I'm about to go and test a board for Pio to see how high it can get. I'll be sure to post a result.


----------



## ny_driver

I'd like to get a DFI and a good pcie card cheap. (Anything that would pretty much put my x1950pro to shame.) Not that there is anything wrong with what I have for what I do, but overclocking is fun.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


FWIW, my DFI's (all 3 of em) can hit roughly 330 before needing any voltage. And on one of those boards, I got it all the way up to 400 with only 1 chipset voltage bump.

PS: I'm about to go and test a board for Pio to see how high it can get. I'll be sure to post a result.










I'm looking forward to the results







. I'm going to torture this golden Opty when I get said board too







.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


FWIW, my DFI's (all 3 of em) can hit roughly 330 before needing any voltage. And on one of those boards, I got it all the way up to 400 with only 1 chipset voltage bump.

PS: I'm about to go and test a board for Pio to see how high it can get. I'll be sure to post a result.










I honestly never had to touch my NB voltage even at 380. Thou I am still testing "when I have time" the new Opty 170. It doesn't seem to be a golden chip, but then again I may have some timings off.....and it's DFI. So lol who knows where that could be









EDIT: I have vacation coming up and plan to do some testing with it. Coffee, pen/paper and patience....check!


----------



## N2Gaming

GO, don't forget the use of CMOS reloaded FTW...


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


GO, don't forget the use of CMOS reloaded FTW...


lol, of course!

I like when I botch up the OC so bad....nothing posts!!!! Literally back to square one


----------



## BlackOmega

Well Pio got some bad news, she won't go as high anymore.







Pretty much anything over 320 can't boot into windows for some reason. Perhaps it's that I'm using an IDE drive whereas last time I used a SATA. Also, I used my hyperX RAM last time which is a CAS 2 RAM, where as this is CAS 2.5 but defaults to 3.

FWIW, it POSTed just fine @ 420 but for some reason it can't "Verify DMI pool DATA" anything over 320.







I've tried changing every setting in the BIOS increased/decreased voltages, ran the RAM @ auto and preset timings, with the RAM voltage anywhere from 2.60 to 2.80, no change.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Also, I used my hyperX RAM last time which is a CAS 2 RAM, where as this is CAS 2.5 but defaults to 3.


BO, I don't think that would be a problem. If anything CAS 2.5/3 would be less stress on the Memory/IMC. Do you still have the parts you previously tested with?

Good luck


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


















Very nice and I'll vouch for the LCB*E stepping. It's really good, fairly easy to get good clocks out of them. My LCB9E Opty 180 clocked to 2.9 without any voltage increase.


I finally took off my cooler and looked at the stepping code. The stepping on my chip is indeed LCB9E, so that's good news I hope. If the finances stay in my favor hopefully I can order that mushkin memory next week and take this thing up a notch.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well Pio got some bad news, she won't go as high anymore.







Pretty much anything over 320 can't boot into windows for some reason. Perhaps it's that I'm using an IDE drive whereas last time I used a SATA. Also, I used my hyperX RAM last time which is a CAS 2 RAM, where as this is CAS 2.5 but defaults to 3.

FWIW, it POSTed just fine @ 420 but for some reason it can't "Verify DMI pool DATA" anything over 320.







I've tried changing every setting in the BIOS increased/decreased voltages, ran the RAM @ auto and preset timings, with the RAM voltage anywhere from 2.60 to 2.80, no change.


Aww







. That really blows. Especially since I just blew off a Phenom and AM2+ board to get that from you....







.

Lol, anybody else got a board that'll do 375+ HTT?


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Aww







. That really blows. Especially since I just blew off a Phenom and AM2+ board to get that from you....







.

Lol, anybody else got a board that'll do 375+ HTT?


Hey Pio what about this.

http://cgi.ebay.com/DFI-LANPARTY-UT-...item1c0f6a9438


----------



## txtmstrjoe

For people looking for a relatively cheap but mighty (and mightily under-rated) S939 OCer's motherboard, I humbly suggest the Abit KN8 SLI. I have one, and its reference clock can hit upwards of 360MHz without any voltage bumps to the chipset.









My only reservation about that particular board has nothing to do with the product itself, but with the manufacturer. Abit has bitten the dust as a motherboard manufacturer. Consequently, if you brick any of their motherboards, don't expect any kind of support...


----------



## thlnk3r

Joe, my brother has a Fatality AN8-SLI board I believe. I was browsing the bios a while back and boy was there a lot of options. It's just asking to be overclocked LOL


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


For people looking for a relatively cheap but mighty (and mightily under-rated) S939 OCer's motherboard, I humbly suggest the Abit KN8 SLI. I have one, and its reference clock can hit upwards of 360MHz without any voltage bumps to the chipset.









My only reservation about that particular board has nothing to do with the product itself, but with the manufacturer. Abit has bitten the dust as a motherboard manufacturer. Consequently, if you brick any of their motherboards, don't expect any kind of support...


There's thread around here for abit rma info. Seems another company has picked up the torch.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
There's thread around here for abit rma info. Seems another company has picked up the torch.









Thats cool but where are the Validations for your new DFI Expert ??? Hmmmmm


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thats cool but where are the Validations for your new DFI Expert ??? Hmmmmm


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
There's thread around here for abit rma info. Seems another company has picked up the torch.









Oh wow. That's certainly good news! Thanks for bringing this up.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


I honestly never had to touch my NB voltage even at 380. Thou I am still testing "when I have time" the new Opty 170. It doesn't seem to be a golden chip, but then again I may have some timings off.....and it's DFI. So lol who knows where that could be









EDIT: I have vacation coming up and plan to do some testing with it. Coffee, pen/paper and patience....check!


 Looks like Pio _needs_ your board.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BO, I don't think that would be a problem. If anything CAS 2.5/3 would be less stress on the Memory/IMC. Do you still have the parts you previously tested with?

Good luck


 Yep still got all of the parts, I used my 3500+, Kingston HyperX, I still have the HDD..........O snap this just gave me an idea.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


I finally took off my cooler and looked at the stepping code. The stepping on my chip is indeed LCB9E, so that's good news I hope. If the finances stay in my favor hopefully I can order that mushkin memory next week and take this thing up a notch.










 Yeah the LCB9E chips seem to clock rather well and fairly easily, although, the LCBQE chips seem to clock better at a lower voltage.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*















































 Was wondering where you've been hiding out at.









PS: Anyone pre-order Mass Effect 2? I'm going to pre-order on the 25th, 1 day before it's official release.









PPS: Pio, I'm going to swap a bunch of hardware around and try to see if this board will go any higher with a SATA drive and the HyperX. If there's any particular CPU you'd like me to try with, let me know. I have the naked 3500+, lapped 3800x2, and my opty 180.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


PS: Anyone pre-order Mass Effect 2? I'm going to pre-order on the 25th, 1 day before it's official release.










I'm going to Pre-Order on the 19th or 20th. Depending on when my check clears.

I'm debating to pickup a new HDTV (This one) or to get an Asus 1201n


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


I'm going to Pre-Order on the 19th or 20th. Depending on when my check clears.

I'm debating to pickup a new HDTV (This one) or to get an Asus 1201n 


 Yeah that's the same reason I'm waiting on the 25th.

As for your choices there, while the netbook is nice, it's pretty expensive IMO. I bought mine (Acer Aspire 1) refurbed from TD for $220 shipped. And for what I use it for (taking notes, web browsing, even watching movies), it's perfect. Definitely wouldn't want to game on this, unless it was some seriously old game.

Speaking of which, have you looked on TD @ their refurbs? Last I checked they had full size laptops (15" screen), with AMD dual cores, 250GB HDD, DVD burner, 2GB RAM (IIRC) for the same price as that Asus netbook.

And that's a damn good price on that TV. That's what I'm planning on using after we buy a new one. Only sucky thing is it's 720p. Oh well it is 32" though


----------



## N2Gaming

I twaught I saw 1080i/p for the specs on the TV... I did I did I know I did...


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I twaught I saw 1080i/p for the specs on the TV... I did I did I know I did...


 Sorry N2 didn't mean to confuse you, I meant the TV that I'm going use after my wife and I buy a new one. We got a Westinghouse 32" 720p.

Sorry for the misunderstanding.


----------



## N2Gaming

Oh yeah BO, that makes my eyes feel much beta.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
As for your choices there, while the netbook is nice, it's pretty expensive IMO. I bought mine (Acer Aspire 1) refurbed from TD for $220 shipped. And for what I use it for (taking notes, web browsing, even watching movies), it's perfect. Definitely wouldn't want to game on this, unless it was some seriously old game.

I had an Asus 1000HE, it was decent, but I need a larger one that can do HD Playback and will last around 4 hours. That's why I'm lookin at the Asus 1201n, which is ~ 5 hours of actual power time.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Speaking of which, have you looked on TD @ their refurbs? Last I checked they had full size laptops (15" screen), with AMD dual cores, 250GB HDD, DVD burner, 2GB RAM (IIRC) for the same price as that Asus netbook.

Yep, I've seen some of those. It makes the choice hard. But any of the non Turion II or Athlon II CPU's are very bad on the AMD Mobile side. Which is why I'm trying to stay away from chips.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
And that's a damn good price on that TV. That's what I'm planning on using after we buy a new one. Only sucky thing is it's 720p. Oh well it is 32" though









That's what I had (Westinghouse as well.) But it died out, as I got it early on when the first LCD's were coming out, in 2004 IIRC(well, Christmas 03). So ~ 5 years was definitely not a bad life for new tech.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Oh yeah BO, that makes my eyes feel much beta.

No, no, I can totally see how someone would get the idea I was talking about the same tv as Tator. I worded it rather .......... vaguely.

EDIT: @ Tator, Wow that's a pretty good run for that TV. I couldn't pass it up the deal on ours, $260 out the door, Black Friday special. And man they went FAST! Totally sold out in a matter of 5 minutes.







I actually circumvented the line and snatched the 2nd to last one.
















As for the refurbs, man they're not bad at all. Mine works great and it gets used a lot. I take it to school, my wife uses it in the living room (she hardly ever uses her Mac anymore







), and when it's not there, it sits in the bathroom; instead of magazines.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


5 years was definitely not a bad life for new tech.


 EEK I hope that don't happen w/my 40" in my sig


----------



## Tator Tot

@Black Omega

I just don't have many places to charge at. I'm always on the move, but I need some good processing power as well. I'm most likely going to pick it up and give it a good review, and if I can't find myself happy, I'll send it back.

@N2Gaming,

I wouldn't think so man. Newer LCD TV's are starkly different, much like plasma's & DLP TV's, they are designed with a 5+ Year lifetime. 
Older LCD's had a 3 Year expected life. DLP's had a 10 year life, but only 2 year life for the bulbs (they now use LED bulbs and are easy 10+ for the whole package TV+Bulb) and plasma's are now ~10 years expected.

Those are all estimated numbers, as we haven't even been able to stress test these new techs yet.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


@Black Omega

I just don't have many places to charge at. I'm always on the move, but I need some good processing power as well. I'm most likely going to pick it up and give it a good review, and if I can't find myself happy, I'll send it back.


 That's the sucky thing about my netbook is it only has a 3 hour life. It's pretty much always plugged in. I also noticed that the wifi connection is better/faster when plugged in. I don't know if that holds true for all wireless devices or if that's a software power conservation thing. No matter though, I never need it for more than 3 hours at a time.

I think I might go and run 3dm06 on it just for a good laugh.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


That's the sucky thing about my netbook is it only has a 3 hour life. It's pretty much always plugged in. I also noticed that the wifi connection is better/faster when plugged in. I don't know if that holds true for all wireless devices or if that's a software power conservation thing. No matter though, I never need it for more than 3 hours at a time.

I think I might go and run 3dm06 on it just for a good laugh.










That's probably related to polling on your WAN Card.

When in powersave mode, you will pole less, and thus have a slightly higher latency and slower speed.

That's part of the reason why WiFi N runs at 5ghz, it's polling much faster (obviously requires the faster frequency to do so) and thus it can increase its speed so much over WiFi G.

You can change those settings and such. You can also change it so that if you are connected internet, your WiFi will actually go to an idle state. 
Under normal settings, it will continually connect to the network, but with some setting changes, you can make so if no services or programs require you access to the Internet, the WiFi card goes into an Idle state and stops polling the WiFi and saves some battery life.

There are many things you can do to increase your battery life and such.

Though, ION Netbooks & Nettops have Overclocking software from nVidia that also allow you to adjust voltages and such. Which is really nice. It's software based, but it directly interfaces with the BIOS of your board so it works well. (Better than CLockGEN or SetFSB.) Also allows you to set C-States. IE: Your power modes, where you can set it up so that at 20% load your CPU is at X.xxGhz & x.xx Voltage. So on and so forth.


----------



## N2Gaming

Tator. Well I'm like frustrated by this whole I gota have 1080P crap because I got my TV back in Nov 2007 as a present to myself along w/a PS3 for Games and Blue ray. I know I paid through the nose back in 07 for the PS3 but I was making buku bucks back then. Well it was buku to me any way and I'd hate to have to pay for my TV 4 Times over now as the cost of my TV has dropped by less than half of what I origionally paid which was close to the tune of $2300.00







I know I'm an idiot. I wish I still had the same idiocity when the Firmy cards hit the floor running. I'd like to Tri SLI some a dem in me Destroya fo-sho.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I think I might go and run 3dm06 on it just for a good laugh.










I'm already laughing.


----------



## BlackOmega

ANd the results are IN!


----------



## Blitz6804

My laptop clocks in slightly less than 100 minutes of battery life. Doing just simple browsing and email use. However, something I have you do not: can play almost any game I ask it to. Not well, but it will do it.

In other news, I FINALLY have my new TV and desk all set up. Yes, the one you see in the sig rig. (LG 47LH40.) It is a beaut in my opinion, and my apartment looks so much bigger now. (Smaller desk.)


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
My laptop clocks in slightly less than 100 minutes of battery life. Doing just simple browsing and email use. However, something I have you do not: can play almost any game I ask it to. Not well, but it will do it.

In other news, I FINALLY have my new TV and desk all set up. Yes, the one you see in the sig rig. (LG 47LH40.) It is a beaut in my opinion, and my apartment looks so much bigger now. (Smaller desk.)

Very nice, I must say that I am a little jealous however, if I had a 47" monitor I would literally have to turn my head left to right to see the whole screen.







I think 32" will suit me just fine.

I was debating on installing some of the older games that came in the Eidos pack that the netbook _should_ have no problems running like Deus Ex, and I also got the Oddworld pack (Abe's Odyssey, Abe's Exodus), heck they might actually look good at such a low res.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I was debating on installing some of the older games that came in the Eidos pack that the netbook _should_ have no problems running like Deus Ex, and I also got the Oddworld pack (Abe's Odyssey, Abe's Exodus), heck they might actually look good at such a low res.









If you had an ION most pre-2007 games would run just fine at 720p









But that's not the reason I'm getting it, though, if you have AudioSurf; they are planning to release AudioSurf with a Netbook mode, which will be highly optimized for the GMA500/GMA950 series of IGP's.


----------



## N2Gaming

blitz,

Now you can have fun playing w/the DPI settings and finding out how you have to change the DPI before you launch specific games. 2 come to mind, Crysis and Burnout.


----------



## Blitz6804

BlackOmega: With the new monitor, I am about 3.5 feet away. With my 27" I was about 2 feet. New desk win? For my monitor, I should have had a 37-42". For my TV, I should have had a 52-55". I figured I would split the difference. (The chairs for TV purposes, that is, Rockband, Mario, and other console activities are rather far away.)

N2Gaming: I have never touched DPI, I do not intend to start now.


----------



## N2Gaming

blitz,

Well I can't stand being 3 feet away from any of my TV's. I like to be at least 6-8 feet away and at that distance I has to change DPI.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


If you had an ION most pre-2007 games would run just fine at 720p









But that's not the reason I'm getting it, though, if you have AudioSurf; they are planning to release AudioSurf with a Netbook mode, which will be highly optimized for the GMA500/GMA950 series of IGP's.


 Nice, I like audio surf, I'm going to have to get it when it's on sale again.

Hey earlier you were talking about optimizing laptops for best power efficiency and what not, do you know of a guide for it? This is my first laptop type device. Never had a need to own one before this so I'm not sure what and quite honestly where to look (I'm sure I could find it but a guide would be easier







).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


BlackOmega: With the new monitor, I am about 3.5 feet away. With my 27" I was about 2 feet. New desk win? For my monitor, I should have had a 37-42". For my TV, I should have had a 52-55". I figured I would split the difference. (The chairs for TV purposes, that is, Rockband, Mario, and other console activities are rather far away.)

N2Gaming: I have never touched DPI, I do not intend to start now.


 Holy SHIZ that's close. My eyes would look like this --->







3.5' is how far away I sit from my 22".









And I'll eventually have to buy the wife a better TV, because it's mainly for her; I hardly ever watch TV except for movies and some news lately because of the Haiti thing. I was thinking along the lines of 52" probably a Panasonic..... or was it Pioneer that had the truest black.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*   Hey earlier you were talking about optimizing laptops for best power efficiency and what not, do you know of a guide for it? This is my first laptop type device. Never had a need to own one before this so I'm not sure what and quite honestly where to look (I'm sure I could find it but a guide would be easier







).  
A    
 



  



 
 though, tomorrow I'll dig up more.

I'm not sure about an all in one guide, or an OCN guide on it

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*   And I'll eventually have to buy the wife a better TV, because it's mainly for her; I hardly ever watch TV except for movies and some news lately because of the Haiti thing. I was thinking along the lines of 52" probably a Panasonic..... or was it Pioneer that had the truest black.







  
It doesn't matter on the brand, but usually the display type.

You have 4 main display types right now
LCDs
OLEDs
DLP
Plasmas

They all have there Pro's and Con's though.


----------



## N2Gaming

Just incase some one would like to own a Gigabyte 939 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...E:B:SS:US:1123


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I was thinking along the lines of 52" probably a Panasonic..... or was it Pioneer that had the truest black.

BO, I still have my 52" Panasonic rear projection LCD tv. Thing is solid. Been going for 4 years now with hours and hours on the bulb. I'd definitely buy a Panasonic again. My tv shows in 1080i still look nice!


----------



## Hueristic




----------



## Lancer33

Yeah I still have one running.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lancer33* 
Yeah I still have one running.












































: cheers:


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lancer33* 
Yeah I still have one running.

Lancer, wow nice overclock! How much Vcore was required?

You're added to the roster. Welcome to the club


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Nice, I like audio surf, I'm going to have to get it when it's on sale again.


If you have Audio Surf already, the Netbook mode is just an option in the graphics menu. So you don't need to re-buy it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hey earlier you were talking about optimizing laptops for best power efficiency and what not, do you know of a guide for it? This is my first laptop type device. Never had a need to own one before this so I'm not sure what and quite honestly where to look (I'm sure I could find it but a guide would be easier







).


Forgot I had these sitting in my favorites

http://www.friedbeef.com/top-15-ways...-battery-life/
http://labnol.blogspot.com/2006/03/1...p-battery.html

A few key notes:
1 stick of RAM will always run at 1 Amp @ 3.3v meaning it's actual power usage is 3.3watts.

CD/DVD/BR drives are (on average, some are a little more, some a little less) 25watts

And a HDD is 12watts.

Now, I would like to note that 7200RPM vs 5400RPM is pretty nil, as it's only a possibly 2 watt increase in power usage. But realistically, less that that.

A bigger concern is areal density. IE: how dense your HDD is. That means the Read/Write head has to move less if your drive is very dense. 
Even if you are only going to use 30GB of your HDD, if you have a 500GB 7200RPM drive, and you partition out the first 60GB of your drive as it's C:\\ sector, the read write head of your drive will hardly ever move. because it will be confined to such a small space. This can actually improve performance. Even on desktops with a singular disk.

Most guides and such are going to tell you the same stuff though.

A big point of these as well, is charge on the UPS, but remove when they are done charging. As most people know, when a battery is on charging, it's constantly being over-volted so that it does charge. Well, the longer you leave it on the charger after the charge is complete, the longer it stays in that condition.

Another thing, 
Hibernate power usage ~3watts with an increased startup time (in seconds) 
Sleep power usage ~6watts with almost instant startup time.

I would always recommend using Hibernate though, as Windows (XP more so than Vista or 7) hates sleep mode, and has trouble coming out of it.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Forgot I had these sitting in my favorites

http://www.friedbeef.com/top-15-ways...-battery-life/


Tator, good info and great link. Some of that stuff I have not thought about


----------



## Blitz6804

I do all but Tip 7 (keeping the contacts clean). When I really need to scrimp, I turn off the style (setting it to Windows Classic and disabling ALL video effects) and drop it to 640x480. I was able to get just about 3.5 hours on the same system that usually runs for about 100 minutes. I JUST hit save on my notes from class when the battery died.


----------



## mattliston

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I do all but Tip 7 (keeping the contacts clean). When I really need to scrimp, I turn off the style (setting it to Windows Classic and disabling ALL video effects) and drop it to 640x480. I was able to get just about 3.5 hours on the same system that usually runs for about 100 minutes. I JUST hit save on my notes from class when the battery died.

no way you can go from 100 minutes to 3.5 hours Changing only appearances and animations/video crap

I call voodoo!


----------



## Blitz6804

Doing everything on that list as well. EVERYTHING that isn't absolutely mission-critical to running the computer gets nuked.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


It doesn't matter on the brand, but usually the display type.

You have 4 main display types right now
LCDs
OLEDs
DLP
Plasmas

They all have there Pro's and Con's though.


I quite honestly don't know the difference except years ago, supposedly, the plasma's had a better picture and a larger view angle. And more recently that the LCD displays are getting better but that's about it.

I don't watch TV really, only movies every so often.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BO, I still have my 52" Panasonic rear projection LCD tv. Thing is solid. Been going for 4 years now with hours and hours on the bulb. I'd definitely buy a Panasonic again. My tv shows in 1080i still look nice!










 Nice! My father in law has a Panasonic, some huge thing; 60" I think, and the picture quality is awesome. 
IIRC, my bro (Mac techie type) was telling me that Pioneer had the truest black. Meaning that the black on the screen was the same color as the trim on the TV (another reason I still like CRT's/tubes). But that was a while ago too now that I think about it. 
Why is it that I always get the feeling that I'm being cheated when I buy a TV. Like they're trying to sell me a polished turd.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


If you have Audio Surf already, the Netbook mode is just an option in the graphics menu. So you don't need to re-buy it.


 I didn't buy it when it was on sale for like $2.00







Should have as it would serve awesome on the netbook, considering it has ~30GB of music con it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


SNIP.


Thanks for all the tips and links.







Seems like a lot of the stuff is the same as trying to optimize your computer. To have as little running as possible. I remember doing this to countless computers, including Macs, to get them to run faster.

I'll have to give all of those a more in depth look (been kinda busy today). I appreciate the help bro.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Thanks for all the tips and links.







Seems like a lot of the stuff is the same as trying to optimize your computer. To have as little running as possible. I remember doing this to countless computers, including Macs, to get them to run faster.

I'll have to give all of those a more in depth look (been kinda busy today). I appreciate the help bro.










No problem man.

Many of those things are just general knowlege. There's some more stuff involved with your Registry (used to edit C or P states)

But I try to stay away from those, as the Registry is not the most friendly tool. Nor the easiest of blades to sharpen.

Also, if you want the low down on TV tech I'm pretty up to date.


----------



## redhat_ownage

dfi NF4 ultra on ebay
owner says it brand new only used once to test it
http://cgi.ebay.com/DFI-LanParty-nFo...item27aea039d5

im tempted but i need to get a cpu for my 790fx

and an update on my vdimm mod: i added a heatsink to it so it can do this without it melting.


----------



## Hueristic

http://cgi.ebay.com/DFI-LANPARTY-UT-...item1c0f6a9438


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


http://cgi.ebay.com/DFI-LANPARTY-UT-...item1c0f6a9438


Did you win that Hue? If so :swearing::swearing::swearing::swearing:


----------



## N2Gaming

I was talking to him when the bidding ended and he did not mention he bid on it. He asked me if it was still at $61.00 like 3.15 min before the bidding ended. I told him it was now at $71.00 and we both agreed that it would still be a great deal at $87.00 Shipped. In any case I don't think he bid on it. He did not tell me any thing of the sort.







I would like to think that if he bid on it he would have told me.


----------



## redhat_ownage

87 is not bad at all for the expert board with cpu and ram

where is the sli-dr expert made, taiwan or china?
my nf3 was made in taiwan and both my sli-dr are made in china


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I was talking to him when the bidding ended and he did not mention he bid on it. He asked me if it was still at $61.00 like 3.15 min before the bidding ended. I told him it was now at $71.00 and we both agreed that it would still be a great deal at $87.00 Shipped. In any case I don't think he bid on it. He did not tell me any thing of the sort.







I would like to think that if he bid on it he would have told me.









Oh well. Hopefully somebody from our little club won it







.


----------



## Kryton

I have a set of those Corsair Pro sticks and they aren't too bad, just not as good as some others you could get. Mine are the one's with LED's in them.

Maybe Hue did win it....


----------



## playah

I think I'll subscribe to this, I'm typing on my trusty DFI Expert w/opty 165 CCBBE 0615 DPMW right now.

I have probably 5 other socket 939 mb's , one in a box a Abit KN8 V1.1 w/3700 in it that seems bullet proof hooked to the TV and stereo

Just found one at Goodwill for 6.99 a Gigabyte K8NSC-939 that booted right up, an AGP oddity w/one swollen cap

Asus A8N Sli Premium(wounded, upper pci-e slot not functioning)
MSI K8N neo 4 Ver 2.0
Asus A8N-E
DFI Ultra d

Dead boards
Abit Fatal1ty AN8 Sli(accidentally killed plugging in the P4 connections wrong way, Ouch!!)
Asus A8v (DOA)

Hmmm, guess I had more than I thought,lol.

A bunch of cpu's 3x165's (all good steppings), x2 4800, 3200, 2x3500, 3400

The 939's are still a lot of fun to play around with and overall a good platform for casual computer use.

My run with the 3700 in a DFI Ultra d, couldn't quite hit the magic 3GHz
http://csd.dficlub.org/forum/showpos...50&postcount=9


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *playah*


I think I'll subscribe to this, I'm typing on my trusty DFI Expert w/opty 165 CCBBE 0615 DPMW right now.

I have probably 5 other socket 939 mb's , one in a box a Abit KN8 V1.1 w/3700 in it that seems bullet proof hooked to the TV and stereo

Just found one at Goodwill for 6.99 a Gigabyte K8NSC-939 that booted right up, an AGP oddity w/one swollen cap

Asus A8N Sli Premium(wounded, upper pci-e slot not functioning)
MSI K8N neo 4 Ver 2.0
Asus A8N-E
DFI Ultra d

Dead boards
Abit Fatal1ty AN8 Sli(accidentally killed plugging in the P4 connections wrong way, Ouch!!)
Asus A8v (DOA)

Hmmm, guess I had more than I thought,lol.

A bunch of cpu's 3x165's (all good steppings), x2 4800, 3200, 2x3500, 3400

The 939's are still a lot of fun to play around with and overall a good platform for casual computer use.

My run with the 3700 in a DFI Ultra d, couldn't quite hit the magic 3GHz
http://csd.dficlub.org/forum/showpos...50&postcount=9


Welcome to our club. If you can provide a CPUz link or screenshot (with a link preferred), one of the club officers can add you to the roster.

That's quite a nice lot of 939 hardware. I'm jealous, lol.


----------



## playah

PM'ed you pioneerisloud, don't know if you got it


----------



## thlnk3r

Playah, wow that is quite an arsenal of S939 equipment









If you can provide a cpu-z validation of your current S939 build then I can go ahead and add you to the roster.


----------



## redhat_ownage

i got my heat gun tonight 5mins before home depot closed
and the results!!!
















im heading to radio shack tomarrow to pick up some flux and desolder wick


----------



## playah

That's pretty hardcore there, what dya got planned

cpu-z validation
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=959924


----------



## thlnk3r

Redhat, can't wait for the RESULTS! This is really cool


----------



## redhat_ownage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *playah*


That's pretty hardcore there, what dya got planned


i have 2 sli-dr boards, one has a broken traces everywhere but it does beep so the NB works.
the other has no physical problems at all but the NB gets stupidly hot within 15 seconds of being turned on.

so im swaping the NB chips hopfully, if i succeed, i will have a working board.
if not it burns up and i wasted 40 for the 2 mobos + 25 for the heat gun.


----------



## playah

You go Doc, that some pretty gutsy surgery there, hope that transplant works

I would have sent you a dead Ultra D, if I'd of known


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Very nice.









As for a board, I'd _HIGHLY_ recommend pretty much any DFI LanParty UT board, with the exception being the CFX3200-DR.

The CFX3200DR is a good board, however, DFI made some traces wrong (at least that is the popular consensus), and it has a cold boot bug where it will lockup after a few minutes of use (it's usually fine after that).

So look for the DFI lanparty (Ultra-D, SLI-DR, SLI-DR expert, and I believe there was an SLI-D also).

The Asus A8n32 SLI deluxe is also a pretty good board, although from my personal experience the DFI OC A LOT better.


The SLI-DR Expert was a damn good board. PWM got a bit hot (70 degrees during Prime) but I got some good overclocks from that board. If only I hadn't killed it


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage*


so im swaping the NB chips hopfully, if i succeed, i will have a working board.
if not it burns up and i wasted 40 for the 2 mobos + 25 for the heat gun.


Redhat, either way this is great experience for yourself and a very interesting read for us









I hope it works out!


----------



## redhat_ownage

i should start collecting dead boards to resurrect lol
i was debating whether or not to pick up a dfi nf2 or dfi 865 to strap my 3ghz northwood to.
i bought my nf3 broken, i replace almost every cap on it and it works great now, and even better than new with the upgraded vdimm supply.
i also have 3 939 cpu's a 3000 venice, a 3200 venice, and a 4000 sandy.
and only 1 working 939 board.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *playah*


I think I'll subscribe to this,








































Quote:



Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage*


im heading to radio shack tomarrow to pick up some flux and desolder wick






































:appla ud:


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*










































































:appla ud:










Hey you! How's that golden DFI board coming along? Any word yet on when you're gonna pass it my way







.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Hey you! How's that golden DFI board coming along? Any word yet on when you're gonna pass it my way







.
























Make me get my keyboard!









I had the time a few daYs ago but sold my spare PS and need to get a cheap replacement. Thinking of this one.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817153052

So I can't get on that or on the one I bought a few weeks ago yet.









I thought about bidding that one I linked to 100 but I don't have the cash. I'd like to start grabbing them all as we are gonna start running out.

Good news by the way, my lawyers called (Been waiting 9 years) and it looks like I'll finally start being able to pay my bills and maybe buys some more [email protected] Gpu's!









AFA the Golden board I need to set a few hours aside as the plasterer dropped a huge hunk onto it and I'm not going to rush that surgery.









Ohh and I'm not going to sell a stock voltage 400htt board unless I get more than 1. :


----------



## pioneerisloud

More than 1 what?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


More than 1 what?


stock voltage 400htt board


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


stock voltage 400htt board










Awww







. But I thought you loved me Hue


----------



## JMT668

what budget mobo and ram would you all recomend for a Opteron 185?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Awww







. But I thought you loved me Hue


































Quote:



Originally Posted by *JMT668*


what budget mobo and ram would you all recomend for a Opteron 185?


http://cgi.ebay.com/DFI-LanParty-nFo...item27aea039d5


----------



## JMT668

looks cool but im in the UK.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *playah* 
I think I'll subscribe to this, I'm typing on my trusty DFI Expert w/opty 165 CCBBE 0615 DPMW right now.

I have probably 5 other socket 939 mb's , one in a box a Abit KN8 V1.1 w/3700 in it that seems bullet proof hooked to the TV and stereo

Just found one at Goodwill for 6.99 a Gigabyte K8NSC-939 that booted right up, an AGP oddity w/one swollen cap

Asus A8N Sli Premium(wounded, upper pci-e slot not functioning)
MSI K8N neo 4 Ver 2.0
Asus A8N-E
DFI Ultra d

Dead boards
Abit Fatal1ty AN8 Sli(accidentally killed plugging in the P4 connections wrong way, Ouch!!)
Asus A8v (DOA)

Hmmm, guess I had more than I thought,lol.

A bunch of cpu's 3x165's (all good steppings), x2 4800, 3200, 2x3500, 3400

The 939's are still a lot of fun to play around with and overall a good platform for casual computer use.

My run with the 3700 in a DFI Ultra d, couldn't quite hit the magic 3GHz
http://csd.dficlub.org/forum/showpos...50&postcount=9

didn't you just buy a 180 and some ram kits for cheap, too?

btw...that link is for the Opty148


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JMT668* 
looks cool but im in the UK.

maybe try ebay UK - http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_t...All-Categories

there are quite a few boards available there.


----------



## FnkDctr

The dfi Ultra D has 2 pci express slots, but does not support SLI


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FnkDctr* 
The dfi Ultra D has 2 pci express slots, but does not support SLI









It does with the SLI soft mod, or a simple pencil mod







.


----------



## playah

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


didn't you just buy a 180 and some ram kits for cheap, too?

btw...that link is for the Opty148


 Sure did

Nice catch on the opty 148, same specs as a 3700 if I recall

Those mods on the NF4 D and Ultra D were pretty simple and effective with a circuit writer pen


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


The SLI-DR Expert was a damn good board. PWM got a bit hot (*70 degrees *during Prime) but I got some good overclocks from that board. If only I hadn't killed it










 I bet that's what killed it. I get like







when I see any temp over 60C. My DFI's the PWM IC's never see over 47C







.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FnkDctr*


The dfi Ultra D has 2 pci express slots, but does not support SLI










 It did until Nvidia disabled it with their drivers. However the mod is relatively easy so not a big deal (I've done it to 2 Ultra-D's).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


It does with the SLI soft mod, or a simple pencil mod







.


 Pencil mod doesn't work as the graphite does have some resistance to it (I measured with a volt meter). The NB requires a pure 12v signal in order for SLI to work properly.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *playah*


Those mods on the NF4 D and Ultra D were pretty simple and effective with a circuit writer pen


 I looked and looked for a circuit writer pen and couldn't find one for cheap enough. Hell the pens cost more than a soldering iron. That's what I used to mod both of my Ultra-D's. They still work great


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


It did until Nvidia disabled it with their drivers. However the mod is relatively easy so not a big deal (I've done it to 2 Ultra-D's).


BlackOmega, the mod should still work with a older driver version correct? Do you know which version they started locking this down?


----------



## playah

I got the circuit writer pen at radio shack for about 8-9.00 years back.

A small fan worked over the pwm area to control heat if I remember.

A nice monitoring program was MBM5 w/modded files for DFI NF4's


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
BlackOmega, the mod should still work with a older driver version correct? Do you know which version they started locking this down?

O man...... this was years and years ago. I can't recall off the top of my head which driver actually disabled it, but I'm sure that you would not want to use it today. I'll have search my archive of 939 Ultra-D modding info.
Although the number 76.xx comes to mind, most likely that's not it. We'd ahve to do a search of their drivers from '05.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *playah* 
I got the circuit writer pen at radio shack for about 8-9.00 years back.

A small fan worked over the pwm area to control heat if I remember.

A nice monitoring program was MBM5 w/modded files for DFI NF4's










Yeah that's where I went to look for it. And they didn't even have one, when I looked online I only found pens for ~$25.

Little OT, where at in MI are you playah?


----------



## playah

"Little OT" ?

Flint... AKA Spent


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *playah* 
"Little OT" ?

Flint... AKA Spent

OT= Off topic.









How's Flint today? I'm in Ann Arbor/Ypsi area. Going back to school!


----------



## thlnk3r

BO, see my question above I think you missed it


----------



## playah

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
OT= Off topic.









How's Flint today? I'm in Ann Arbor/Ypsi area. Going back to school!









Ann Arbor is one of the nicer areas, Flint is a ghetto = Spent

Found a circuit writer at Fry's 12.99


----------



## Blitz6804

Thlnk3r: As BlackOmega said, the driver mod was shut down some time ago. Likely in the range of 6x.xx - 7x.xx. We do not recall exactly when. The circuit pen apparently works in all driver versions since the computer sees your chip as the higher-function one than gimped one. As Tator has linked before, it might be possible to use the x58 workaround to get it running without modding anything.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *playah*


I think I'll subscribe to this, I'm typing on my trusty DFI Expert w/opty 165 CCBBE 0615 DPMW right now.

I have probably 5 other socket 939 mb's , one in a box a Abit KN8 V1.1 w/3700 in it that seems bullet proof hooked to the TV and stereo

Just found one at Goodwill for 6.99 a Gigabyte K8NSC-939 that booted right up, an AGP oddity w/one swollen cap

Asus A8N Sli Premium(wounded, upper pci-e slot not functioning)
MSI K8N neo 4 Ver 2.0
Asus A8N-E
DFI Ultra d

Dead boards
Abit Fatal1ty AN8 Sli(accidentally killed plugging in the P4 connections wrong way, Ouch!!)
Asus A8v (DOA)

Hmmm, guess I had more than I thought,lol.

A bunch of cpu's 3x165's (all good steppings), x2 4800, 3200, 2x3500, 3400

The 939's are still a lot of fun to play around with and overall a good platform for casual computer use.

My run with the 3700 in a DFI Ultra d, couldn't quite hit the magic 3GHz
http://csd.dficlub.org/forum/showpos...50&postcount=9


Nice collection but there is something familiar here.

At one time, did you visit the Socket A+/Classicplatforms site?


----------



## playah

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Nice collection but there is something familiar here.

At one time, did you visit the Socket A+/Classicplatforms site?


 Oh yes, had the DFI NF2 Ultra b w/a 2600xp-m


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *playah*


Oh yes, had the DFI NF2 Ultra b w/a 2600xp-m


Thought I knew you.

I'm Bones from that site.








Haven't heard from you in a long time and wondered what happened to you. Hopefully all is going well for you. Feel free to pop in whenever you want, still registered there and the site has been upgraded since your last visit. 
Any problems getting in, we'll let Mr. Scott beam you aboard.


----------



## playah

What's up bones, I peek in there from time to access the data there, lot's of good stuff.

Seen you posting up some pretty high #'s, nice OC on that Newark


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Thlnk3r: As BlackOmega said, the driver mod was shut down some time ago.


Blitz, ahhh ok. I wasn't sure if any older versions still existed out there on the net....


----------



## Blitz6804

Might be found on nVidia's website in the Legacy section, but I am dubious. And even if it were, I cannot expect very good graphics performance.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, the mod should still work with a older driver version correct? Do you know which version they started locking this down?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BO, see my question above I think you missed it










 IS that the question you are referring to? If it is, I think there might be some confusion as what mod I was referring to. AFAIK, there is no driver mod/hack that works with any current driver to re-enable the feature. 
The mod I was referring to was the hardware SLI mod where you jumper the pins. It's actually really easy to do, just have to have a steady hand (using a palm rest helps immensly as well), with a soldering iron just heat up the "pins" and run them together. It takes all of about 30 seconds to a minute.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *playah*


Ann Arbor is one of the nicer areas, Flint is a ghetto = Spent

Found a circuit writer at Fry's 12.99


 Ahh Flint. O ..... that place









J/k







, I've only ever driven through Flint. It seems a little run down. Wasn't there some auto plants there that closed down or something?

EDIT:
Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Might be found on nVidia's website in the Legacy section, but I am dubious. And even if it were, I cannot expect very good graphics performance.


 I've run my 4870 on the 2x slot on my DFI board (@ 2x) and while there definitely is some decresed performance it still played everything just fine. 
I recall readng a review of the Ultra-D a while back where they tested the performance difference between 16x/2x and 8x/8x. It was actually less than a 10% IIRC. Although I believe that they used 6800GT's, so the bottleneck on the newer cards would be considerably greater, but it would still be a performance boost at no cost.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JMT668*


looks cool but im in the UK.


http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DFI-Lanparty-s...item19b9496e80


----------



## BlackOmega

NIce find Hue!









So far it's @ $20.


----------



## Blitz6804

Even with a single card, I expect graphics performance on the 6x.xx drivers to be far less than the modern drivers (196.xx).


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Even with a single card, I expect graphics performance on the 6x.xx drivers to be far less than the modern drivers (196.xx).


 I would have to agree. But you know nvidia sacrificed visual quality for speed right?

When I was still running my GSO's, when I switched from the 175.19 driver to the 180.xx driver my frame rates doubled, but the picture quality was worse. I actually rolled the driver back to the 175.19 driver because it looked so much better.


----------



## playah

There is a nice guide on the mod here, pretty simple,

http://www.overclockersclub.com/guid...tradtoslidmod/


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *playah* 
There is a nice guide on the mod here, pretty simple,

http://www.overclockersclub.com/guid...tradtoslidmod/

Yeah I saw that one before. One of my boards had the epoxy over the pins. I just melted it with the soldering iron. Call me weird but I'm not a fan of scraping PCB's.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Call me weird but I'm not a fan of scraping PCB's.


----------



## playah

Well the trick is you're not supposed to actually scrape the pcb, just the epoxy, there was a lot of people that used this exact method successfully, never heard of anybody botching their board


----------



## N2Gaming

:swearing:I'm feeling like Hue atm from all this house work I have been doing these last few days....







I passed the renters house inspection so all is good there.

That is some good news Hueristic. Any idea when you'll be rich again. j/k


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I passed the renters house inspection so all is good there.












































: applaud:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
That is some good news Hueristic. Any idea when you'll be rich again. j/k


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *playah*


What's up bones, I peek in there from time to access the data there, lot's of good stuff.

Seen you posting up some pretty high #'s, nice OC on that Newark


Thanks!

Worked hard for those and still at it. Maybe my X2 4200 can claim #3 in the world before long - As soon as I fix the watercooling. The Newark right now holds the #3 spot and the MB makes all the difference. If you have a 754 chip to OC, get a board like this one and let it fly. Just replace the chipset cooler with something better or WC it like I did this one.


----------



## playah

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Thanks!

Worked hard for those and still at it. Maybe my X2 4200 can claim #3 in the world before long - As soon as I fix the watercooling. The Newark right now holds the #3 spot and the MB makes all the difference. If you have a 754 chip to OC, get a board like this one and let it fly. Just replace the chipset cooler with something better or WC it like I did this one.


 I've got a DFI NF3 250 and a 4000 mobile I've been gonna put together, probably need some pointers, what video card are you using with that rig

What stepping is on that x2 4200


----------



## redhat_ownage

they should change the name to 939 and 754 appreciation club since there just about the same system minus 1 64bit memory channel.

anyway... i spent sooo much time trying to get bh-5 working perfectly on this board i forgot about my ce-5, i forgot how great this stuff is to overclock, and no surprise it overclocks better on this dfi than the abit before it.
set 3-3-10-2-10 the rest on auto
G.SKILL FTW!!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Wow! You could probably get away with a lower tRAS, but still that is most impressive. Most I can get out of my chips is 279MHz @ 3-5-5-10-2T (22/24).


----------



## redhat_ownage

tras of 10 is faster on a nf3 than anything lower, without that 10 my everest read drop by ~10


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage*


tras of 10 is faster on a nf3 than anything lower, without that 10 my everest read drop by ~10


































That is indeed the most suitable smilie for that situation.

How is that....even.....possible? Oh well, congrats on the high memory! Is it stable?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *playah* 
Well the trick is you're not supposed to actually scrape the pcb, just the epoxy, there was a lot of people that used this exact method successfully, never heard of anybody botching their board

It's not that you're actually scraping the PCB but it's so close to it that the inevitable accident might occur. That and i'm just lazy, I didn't feel like scraping so I just melted it.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage* 
they should change the name to 939 and 754 appreciation club since there just about the same system minus 1 64bit memory channel.

anyway... i spent sooo much time trying to get bh-5 working perfectly on this board i forgot about my ce-5, i forgot how great this stuff is to overclock, and no surprise it overclocks better on this dfi than the abit before it.
set 3-3-10-2-10 the rest on auto
G.SKILL FTW!!









Wow very nice OC


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage*


tras of 10 is faster on a nf3 than anything lower, without that 10 my everest read drop by ~10










Redhat, nice memory overclock









So just to clarify without a tRAS of 10 you're getting approx. 10MB/s less? What kind of stability testing have you performed?

Good luck


----------



## ny_driver

I got my enermax eg701ax PSU today. I hooked it all up and the system powers on, but it don't post. I get nothing to the screen, and no keyboard boot up lights. Of course I've reset cmos/removed battery, and double checked all connections. I'm wondering if it's possible that when the PSU went it took out the board even though the board still powers up. Does that make any sense? Anyways just looking for suggestions guys......I have an identical board I could try, but that board is yet untested. I figured I'd test on this one that I know DID work 10 days ago and then test the other Neo2 I got. Thanks for the help.

btw....I'll never get a non-modular PSU again. What a pain.


----------



## thlnk3r

Ny_driver, just for clarification isn't this the board with one damaged mosfet?


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Ny_driver, just for clarification isn't this the board with one damaged mosfet?


No...I have 2 other Neo2 Platinums now.

EDIT:the one I burned is now just for decoration

EDITEDIT: this is the board that was working fine then one morning about 10 days ago the PSU was dead.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


No...I have 2 other Neo2 Platinums now.

EDIT:the one I burned is now just for decoration


Ny_driver, thanks for clarifying. So the board in question was previously tested with a "known" faulty power supply? Do the fans at least spin?


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Ny_driver, thanks for clarifying. So the board in question was previously tested with a "known" faulty power supply? Do the fans at least spin?


the board in question did work fine with what I thought was a good PSU until it died in the night. I tested and determined that the PSU was indeed dead. I got another PSU(enermax eg701ax) and everything powers on it just doesn't seem to post.

EDIT: an easy way to test would be to just hook up the other(untested) board....except it's untested so I may or may not find anything out.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


the board in question did work fine with what I thought was a good PSU until it died in the night. I tested and determined that the PSU was indeed dead. I got another PSU(enermax eg701ax) and everything powers on it just doesn't seem to post.


Ny_driver,m it is possible the previous unit did damage the board. What symptoms did the bad PSU reveal when taking a crap?

Have you tried testing with a different video card, memory and cpu?

Good luck


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Ny_driver,m it is possible the previous unit did damage the board. What symptoms did the bad PSU reveal when taking a crap?

Have you tried testing with a different video card, memory and cpu?

Good luck

It didn't exhibit any symptoms(in fact I tested it with a meter while running S&M recently)...it seemed strong. It just died in the night(wouldn't power up at all).

no I haven't tried any testing yet with different components.....was hoping to maybe see what I could have overlooked, but I guess nothing takes the place of good old fashioned testing.

EDIT: tested different video card(no difference), I know the RAM is good(used in my other system)....guess that leaves the mobo and cpu, what pain in the arse.

EDITEDIT:could there be some type of compatibility issue with the PSU....it doesn't have the 4 pin 12v atx...what it has is an 8 pin connector with an adapter to 4 pin


----------



## Hueristic

Make sure you didn't leave the cmos clear in the wrong position. hold down the power button for 30 seconds. If that fails remove the ps connectors and place battery in backwards for 5 seconds. GL

I just had to retype this whole post as I typed it on the wrong keyboa4d first!


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Make sure you didn't leave the cmos clear in the wrong position. hold down the power button for 30 seconds. If that fails remove the ps connectors and place battery in backwards for 5 seconds. GL

I just had to retype this whole post as I typed it on the wrong keyboa4d first!









no luck so far, I'm going to have to try the other mobo and see if that clears anything up for me.


----------



## thlnk3r

Ny_driver, do you have another cpu you could test with? Perhaps it could be just a simple reseat that may resolve this problem...

Good luck


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Ny_driver, do you have another cpu you could test with? Perhaps it could be just a simple reseat that may resolve this problem...

Good luck


I do and am quite sure it's seated good, but before I take it all apart I will try reseating. Good idea, ty.

EDIT: what about the 8 pin to 4 pin adapter thing I mentioned in my other edit??


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


EDIT: what about the 8 pin to 4 pin adapter thing I mentioned in my other edit??


Ny_driver, the 8-pin to 4-pin adapter is fine. On some power supplies the 8-pin 12volt will actually split into (2) 4-pin power connectors making unnecessary for an adapter. In your case it is completely fine to use the adapter.

Good luck


----------



## ny_driver

ok thanks.....I guess I will try reseating and if that fails, a different cpu and if that doesn't work I'll have to try the other board. I'd much rather a dead mobo than cpu, let me tell ya.









EDIT: I hate when the cpu comes out with the HS....I know it's not supposed to but it does.


----------



## BlackOmega

NY-Drver, even though you know the RAM is good, pull out 1 stick so it's in single channel. Sometimes this makes a difference. I had a similar occurrence and it wouldn't POST with both sticks in. After I pulled out 1 of the sticks it fired right up. Then I put the other stick back in and all was well.

As for the PSU's, personally I don't like using modular PSU or ones that have the +12v rail split. It seems as though those types of PSU's always fail. Only non mod single rail for me. Although, I might get a dual rail Silverstone PSU but that's onyl because it's cheap.









Good Luck bud.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


NY-Drver, even though you know the RAM is good, pull out 1 stick so it's in single channel. Sometimes this makes a difference. I had a similar occurrence and it wouldn't POST with both sticks in. After I pulled out 1 of the sticks it fired right up. Then I put the other stick back in and all was well.

As for the PSU's, personally I don't like using modular PSU or ones that have the +12v rail split. It seems as though those types of PSU's always fail. Only non mod single rail for me. Although, I might get a dual rail Silverstone PSU but that's onyl because it's cheap.









Good Luck bud.










I already took out the cpu and dropped it and bent a whole row of pins







....so I've got a job ahead of me when I get home. I'll fix the bent pins then try reinstalling it, then I'll do what you said with the ram before I try a different cpu. I'll be back in a couple hours.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *playah*


I've got a DFI NF3 250 and a 4000 mobile I've been gonna put together, probably need some pointers, what video card are you using with that rig

What stepping is on that x2 4200


I've noted the videocard doesn't mean a whole lot but these DFI NF4 boards use PCI-E slot GPU's. I usually run my 7600GTS in it when I have it going with watercooling.
I'd definitely invest in better chipset cooling if you haven't already. My NF3-250 chipset in my Gigabyte GA-K8NS runs HOT and had to make a few changes to it's cooling and that helped.

The X2 4200 is a LCBQE 0721 chip.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


I've noted the videocard doesn't mean a whole lot but these DFI NF4 boards use PCI-E slot GPU's. I usually run my 7600GTS in it when I have it going with watercooling.
I'd definitely invest in better chipset cooling if you haven't already. My NF3-250 chipset in my Gigabyte GA-K8NS runs HOT and had to make a few changes to it's cooling and that helped.

The X2 4200 is a *LCBQE* 0721 chip.


 That has to be the best stepping. LCB9E is not far off, but the Q's are awesome. High clocks and low voltage (relatively speaking).

__________________________________________________ _______________

Hey do you guys know of a place I can d/l some logitech drivers, other than from Logitech? My refurb G15 came today and of course it has no freakin driver disc and to make it that much cooler, Logitechs download link is non functional.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


*That has to be the best stepping. LCB9E is not far off, but the Q's are awesome. High clocks and low voltage (relatively speaking).*

__________________________________________________ _______________

Hey do you guys know of a place I can d/l some logitech drivers, other than from Logitech? My refurb G15 came today and of course it has no freakin driver disc and to make it that much cooler, Logitechs download link is non functional.


I know....see my sig







.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


That has to be the best stepping. LCB9E is not far off, but the Q's are awesome. High clocks and low voltage (relatively speaking).


These chips shine when you can get temps way down as mine does. This is the newest stepping you can get but the LCB9E chips are good too - one of my 4000+ San Diego chips with this stepping can hit 3.4GHz.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hey do you guys know of a place I can d/l some logitech drivers, other than from Logitech? My refurb G15 came today and of course it has no freakin driver disc and to make it that much cooler, Logitechs download link is non functional.


BlackOmega, it looks like the downloads are working again. Here's the direct link (G15 WinXPP 32-bit)

Hope that helps


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I know....see my sig







.












Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


These chips shine when you can get temps way down as mine does. This is the newest stepping you can get but the LCB9E chips are good too - one of my 4000+ San Diego chips with this stepping can hit 3.4GHz.


 Yeah my 180 is a LCB9E and it does clock well. I've never taken it past 3.1 because temps just get way out of hand.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, it looks like the downloads are working again. Here's the direct link (G15 WinXPP 32-bit)

Hope that helps


 It does a lot TY very much. I sent them a tech ticket this morning. Looks like they got the links fixed.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
It does a lot TY very much. I sent them a tech ticket this morning. Looks like they got the links fixed.









Probably there FTP servers were having hiccups, as they do 2 redirects from the FTP Locations, first to an internal location to an external location, and then to an HTTP location.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


BlackOmega, it looks like the downloads are working again. Here's the direct link (G15 WinXPP 32-bit)

Hope that helps



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Probably there FTP servers were having hiccups, as they do 2 redirects from the FTP Locations, first to an internal location to an external location, and then to an HTTP location.


 I'm not sure what the issue is, the download link doesn't pop up in FF but works perfectly fine in IE7. 
Guess FF is going downhill, several people that I've talked to that have stock rigs have noticed it hanging after you close it. They're all using x86 XP, like me. After I shut FF down it's still in the process tree and sometimes it uses up to 500,000k. Maybe I'll have to give Chrome a try or just keep using IE.


----------



## thlnk3r

BlackOmega, I've thought about giving IE8 a try since it comes with Win7 pre-installed. I do notice quite a bit of memory usage from FireFox now and then. I can have like 15 tabs open and the browser eats up more than half a gig. It's a pretty solid browser though.


----------



## Tator Tot

I would say it most likely could be a build error.

Right now it seems very much like Mozilla is trying to get there new version of Firefox out the door (as it's using a brand new version of Gecko, which will speed things up intensely) but they are unfortunately leaving little on the bug fix side.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I already took out the cpu and dropped it and bent a whole row of pins







....so I've got a job ahead of me when I get home. I'll fix the bent pins then try reinstalling it, then I'll do what you said with the ram before I try a different cpu. I'll be back in a couple hours.


yup BO, that was the ticket. I took out one stick of RAM and it fired up.
It was quite a chore to get all the pins straight(magnifying glass and guitar pick)....but it can be done.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


yup BO, that was the ticket. I took out one stick of RAM and it fired up.
It was quite a chore to get all the pins straight(magnifying glass and guitar pick)....but it can be done.










 Alright! I'm glad it worked for you.









As for bent pins man, I hate those. Last time I had more than 1 bent I used a credit card. Mechanical pencils work well too (.5 OR smaller).


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Alright! I'm glad it worked for you.









As for bent pins man, I hate those. Last time I had more than 1 bent I used a credit card. Mechanical pencils work well too (.5 OR smaller).

looks to be running much cooler at idle now that I reversed the mounting of my core contact freezer. before it was right on top of my video card, now I put the fan on top and sucking upwards instead of blowing up through the fins. I managed to install the 14cm fan from my dead PSU right below my floppy drive blowing air into the cpu freezer...it seems a lot better overall, I'll update you guys later after I do a little testing. I'll take some pics with my new fan configuration, too.

EDIT: I have 1 core hitting 58c max running S&M short/100% @ stock everything. That's not good. I don't think this chip is going to OC very well. I'm not going to be able to bump the voltage at all without it getting too hot. Both cores idle at 25-27c. Shouldn't be going up 30c under load should it?

EDITEDIT: +300MHz and stock voltage it passed S&M with a max temp of 61c and still idle at 27-28c....I'd be happy to take 300MHz more at a cost of 3 degrees higher.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


EDIT: I have 1 core hitting 58c max running S&M short/100% @ stock everything. That's not good. I don't think this chip is going to OC very well. I'm not going to be able to bump the voltage at all without it getting too hot. Both cores idle at 25-27c. Shouldn't be going up 30c under load should it?

EDITEDIT: +300MHz and stock voltage it passed S&M with a max temp of 61c and still idle at 27-28c....I'd be happy to take 300MHz more at a cost of 3 degrees higher.


Ny_driver, 58C full load is fine especially for S&M. My Opteron 170 would load at 64C (XP-90C) before I saw lock-ups. How much TIM are you applying? Have you considered lapping the IHS? That would certainly improve overall load temperatures. What is your room ambient temperature?

Good luck


----------



## BlackOmega

You're fine Ny_driver. Depending on th OC and the voltage, you should be able to run it all the way up ~65C before you start to worry. And like thlnk3r said, S&M is an especially brutal test as far as 939's are concerned. The most hardcore one is the FPU test followed closely by the L1 cache test.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thlnk3r*


Ny_driver, 58C full load is fine especially for S&M. My Opteron 170 would load at 64C (XP-90C) before I saw lock-ups. How much TIM are you applying? Have you considered lapping the IHS? That would certainly improve overall load temperatures. What is your room ambient temperature?

Good luck


Ambient is about 20-21c. I'm currently considering all possibilities, like lapping. 
My cpu is idling (29c)2-3c lower than my gpu......I must have done something right with the airflow.

I'm not overly concerned with hitting 60's in S&M, as it's not likely to ever hit that temp under normal abuse. I had to bump the voltage up 3.3%(up to 1.42v on meter) to go over 2700MHz, now I'm at 2808MHz, now I gotta test this. BRB

edit: I used less TIM than normal this time.....I'm trying to use less than I have been. I took out my HS earlier and the cpu was practically cemented to it with AS5.....stupid cpu popped right out of the socket. I used the Tuniq TX-2 that came with the core contact for reinstallation. Seems to work well, and less messy, too.


----------



## ny_driver

If I said it locked up at the start of the FPU test(max temp. 61c), what would you say I should do?.............................(whisper) more voltage









2808MHz/1.42v EDIT:next voltage bump from +3.3%-+5% raises it from 1.42-1.48v and it gets too hot(71c in FPU test)...it'd be way better if I could make minor voltage adjustments (changing the voltage by the allotted increments doesn't change anything) only way to change it is by the +%


----------



## Blitz6804

BlackOmega: I found that problem myself. It is tied to Firefox 3.5.7 when using Session Manager. Disable session manager, and it is fine. Use Firefox 3.5.6, and it is fine. Use both, and about 75% of the time Firefox will not end when you close Firefox.


----------



## redhat_ownage

ny_driver, you should send your dead board over here








msi was the first board i ever did over 4ghz on.


----------



## ny_driver

3GHz for me redhat
....I think this Opty 180 is junk.....slightly better if any than the 4400+ I just sold. As far as OC goes anyways. I'm so mad I ruined that 170 CCB1E....it was a nice chip. It OC'd 1000MHz np, this thing won't even do 500MHz over.

I think all the Optys are the same chip, just set different at the factory...... and the stepping is pretty much everything, although I don't really understand how they come out of the factory different based on the stepping...it's the same parts isn't it?


----------



## redhat_ownage

anyone see this yet?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=263602_263622


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage*


anyone see this yet?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=263602_263622


Works for me


----------



## khaxnguyen

edited.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


If I said it locked up at the start of the FPU test(max temp. 61c), what would you say I should do?.............................(whisper) more voltage









2808MHz/1.42v EDIT:next voltage bump from +3.3%-+5% raises it from 1.42-1.48v and it gets too hot(71c in FPU test)...it'd be way better if I could make minor voltage adjustments (changing the voltage by the allotted increments doesn't change anything) only way to change it is by the +%


 Whoa 71C is way too hot; as soon as it got to 64C you should've shut it down.

BTW, FPU/L2 cache failures are due to temps being too high; L1 cache failure equates to inadequate voltage.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


BlackOmega: I found that problem myself. It is tied to Firefox 3.5.7 when using Session Manager. Disable session manager, and it is fine. Use Firefox 3.5.6, and it is fine. Use both, and about 75% of the time Firefox will not end when you close Firefox.


 Where is session manager? In the advanced settings somewhere? I like FF much better than IE. And I expect most programs to run on after it's closed for a little bit, but FF has been hanging. It can hang like that for over an hour.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


3GHz for me redhat
....I think this Opty 180 is junk.....slightly better if any than the 4400+ I just sold. As far as OC goes anyways. I'm so mad I ruined that 170 CCB1E....it was a nice chip. It OC'd 1000MHz np, this thing won't even do 500MHz over.

I think all the Optys are the same chip, just set different at the factory...... and the stepping is pretty much everything, although I don't really understand how they come out of the factory different based on the stepping...it's the same parts isn't it?


 No use crying over spilled milk. And you've gotta realize that 500MHz OC on 180 (is kind low honestly), but that does put it at the upper end of what the majority of 939 CPUs' top out at, 3GHz. Obviously some are better and some are worse.

Steppings are like batches if I'm not mistaken. And since you're dealing with such tiny things the margin of error goes up immensely. And usually the more they make of them the more revisions they do and make them better, that's why the LCB*E CPU's tend to overclock better than their older counterparts.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage*


anyone see this yet?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=263602_263622


 Kinda prcey.


----------



## Kryton

Yeah, the later steppings and dates are the ones to go for. I'm happy with my 180 and it's a fairly good clocker. Wish I had known about the 4400, may have wanted to see about getting that one.

They are the same and the model rating is based on how well a given chip does when tested. Once testing is done, it's "Binned" to run at a set default multi.


----------



## godofdeath

Okkkkk
Running 8+ hrs of prime95
One core (worker 2) fail sat 7hrs n 59mins, I guess this is why you do 8+ hours.
I have no clue why.
It says I have a rounding error where it's .4995117788, expected less than .4

Could it have something to do with the fact that when I first did this I WAS on 32bit or maybe is it because I under volted it from regular 1.35 to 1.325 (or whatever number it is in the bios)?


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Whoa 71C is way too hot; as soon as it got to 64C you should've shut it down.

BTW, FPU/L2 cache failures are due to temps being too high; L1 cache failure equates to inadequate voltage.


 It failed/froze up at the start of FPU test and the max temp seen was 61c, but hitting that temp doesn't normally cause failure?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


No use crying over spilled milk. And you've gotta realize that 500MHz OC on 180 (is kind low honestly), but that does put it at the upper end of what the majority of 939 CPUs' top out at, 3GHz. Obviously some are better and some are worse.


 And I do realize that 500MHz OC for a 180 is kind of low( I can get windows at 2.9, but definitely not stable...too much voltage to get there.) If I set the cpu to 2.8GHz with enough voltage so S&M runs through it gets too hot. Is it just a crappy chip/stepping I got, or is this core contact freezer inadequate? I'll sell this POS cpu right on ebay for more than I paid for it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Steppings are like batches if I'm not mistaken. And since you're dealing with such tiny things the margin of error goes up immensely. And usually the more they make of them the more revisions they do and make them better, that's why the LCB*E CPU's tend to overclock better than their older counterparts.


That makes sense, I just don't understand why LCB happened to be good, and the CCB1E I have is very good, too.

Kinda prcey.[/quote]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Yeah, the later steppings and dates are the ones to go for. I'm happy with my 180 and it's a fairly good clocker. Wish I had known about the 4400, may have wanted to see about getting that one.


The most I could get out of my CCBWE 4400 was 2.7GHz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


They are the same and the model rating is based on how well a given chip does when tested. Once testing is done, it's "Binned" to run at a set default multi.


 Makes perfect sense to me, ty


----------



## ny_driver

question....my FSB/HT Link is 800MHz max so should I ideally keep my HT Link under 800MHz for best performance? Everyone always says 1000, but I just realized that mine maxs at 800MHz? Thanks.


----------



## Blitz6804

My nForce 3 board defaulted to 800 MHz. There was a 5x multiplier, but any attempt to set it as such rendered me unable to POST. I found that it was better to have 4x with a 250 MHz HTT. The chip wants 1000 MHz, or at least 900 MHz, so I tried to oblige whenever possible.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
The chip wants 1000 MHz, or at least 900 MHz, so I tried to oblige whenever possible.

























Hey guys got the new dfi booted but had mem issues so gotta clean and reseat them after I check the board out with known good ram.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
My nForce 3 board defaulted to 800 MHz. There was a 5x multiplier, but any attempt to set it as such rendered me unable to POST. I found that it was better to have 4x with a 250 MHz HTT. The chip wants 1000 MHz, or at least 900 MHz, so I tried to oblige whenever possible.

I never tried the 5x, but I don't really need to. I was just wondering if maybe I needed to lower it to 3x for better performance. Splitting hairs I guess.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 























Hey guys got the new dfi booted but had mem issues so gotta clean and reseat them after I check the board out with known good ram.

Cool, GL with that.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


It failed/froze up at the start of FPU test and the max temp seen was 61c, but hitting that temp doesn't normally cause failure?


 WE here at the 939 club have a theory about increased clock speeds and max allowable temps. Reason it's a theory is because we can't really prove it. 
Anyway, the theory is that as the clock speed/voltage increases the max temp drops. So at stock clocks @ 1.35v max temp is 65C. However at @ 2.9 @ 1.45v the max temp would drop to 60 (this is just a guesstimation BTW), and so on.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


And I do realize that 500MHz OC for a 180 is kind of low( I can get windows at 2.9, but definitely not stable...too much voltage to get there.) If I set the cpu to 2.8GHz with enough voltage so S&M runs through it gets too hot. Is it just a crappy chip/stepping I got, or is this core contact freezer inadequate? I'll sell this POS cpu right on ebay for more than I paid for it.


 IT seems as though the cooler is inadequate for the Opty. To put it in perspective, my 180 @ 1.45v @ 2.9 (16 hours prime stable) barely got to 60C (Coretemp) using my Xiggy Darkknight.

It seems that it would be in your best interest to upgrade your cooler. The Xigmatek S1283 is good, or the Xigmatek Dark knight which is the nickel plated version of the S1283, but it also comes with a considerably better LED fan (89CFM). 
Some other coolers to look at are the Scythe Mugen 2 or the ThermalTake Big Typhoon ($20 shipped). The BT might need to be lapped right of the box, mine did, but it actually cools a little better (~2-3C) than my Xigmatek dark knight. It does disipate heat very well, currently on my 720 @ 1.496v with an 800MHz OC after 8 hours of prime it only gets to 48C. During gaming or any other "normal" task I have yet to see my CPU over 36C (22/23c ambient).


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


WE here at the 939 club have a theory about increased clock speeds and max allowable temps. Reason it's a theory is because we can't really prove it. 
Anyway, the theory is that as the clock speed/voltage increases the max temp drops. So at stock clocks @ 1.35v max temp is 65C. However at @ 2.9 @ 1.45v the max temp would drop to 60 (this is just a guesstimation BTW), and so on.


 I can't see how you came up with that theory. Sounds good, but it seems pretty backwards to me.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


IT seems as though the cooler is inadequate for the Opty. To put it in perspective, my 180 @ 1.45v @ 2.9 (16 hours prime stable) barely got to 60C (Coretemp) using my Xiggy Darkknight.

It seems that it would be in your best interest to upgrade your cooler. The Xigmatek S1283 is good, or the Xigmatek Dark knight which is the nickel plated version of the S1283, but it also comes with a considerably better LED fan (89CFM). 
Some other coolers to look at are the Scythe Mugen 2 or the ThermalTake Big Typhoon ($20 shipped). The BT might need to be lapped right of the box, mine did, but it actually cools a little better (~2-3C) than my Xigmatek dark knight. It does disipate heat very well, currently on my 720 @ 1.496v with an 800MHz OC after 8 hours of prime it only gets to 48C. During gaming or any other "normal" task I have yet to see my CPU over 36C (22/23c ambient).


 Man I read a **** load of reviews and asked around some...the core contact is supposedly equivalent or better than the s1283 and others similar....what a waste of money....this thing really isn't much improvement over my AC Freezer 64pro, although all the reviews say otherwise.

EDIT : This cooler sux...if I increase the voltage above stock at all it gets to 67c in the fpu test and gets interrupted. I know I could adjust the tolerances in the test, but I'm just not going to test anymore. It's stable where it is. 1.42v 250 x 11 = 2750 with RAM at 250 3-3-2-5-1T(DDR500)







It's good enough. It doesn't even break 50c when racing, and that's all that really matters.


----------



## playah

Have you checked the base to make sure it isn't warped a little, after I lapped a AC Freezer Pro 64 it dropped temps about 4C


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *playah*


Have you checked the base to make sure it isn't warped a little, after I lapped a AC Freezer Pro 64 it dropped temps about 4C


 I checked it out with a straight edge, it seems pretty flat. I'm a little hesitant about lapping the cooler because the heatpipes are exposed on the surface of the HS.....and I really don't have the necessary materials to do a proper lapping anyways. I lapped my freezer64pro with a flat knife sharpening stone and the temps dropped 2c, but I'd rather do it the recommended method.


----------



## Blitz6804

ny_driver: I originally came up with the theory. My thought was that on higher TDP processors, the thermal caps were lower. For example, the 110 W 4400+ is safe to 65Âº C, but the 89 W 4400+ is safe to 71Âº C. Furthermore, it seems that chips with lower stock voltages tend to have higher safe temps, such as variations in the Brisbane line. My theory was based solely in voltages, BlackOmega has (logically) expanded it to include speeds as well, since speed or voltage affect the TDP. To me, this does not seem backward at all, but instead, logical. If higher TDP permitted higher safe temperatures, extreme cooling solutions would be pointless: why bother putting a phase change system to increase the voltage to 1.800 V if when running at 1.800 V my safe temperature is higher than when running at 1.350 V? TestECull has had the misfortune of testing my theory: his processor ran fine all day long overclocked and overvolted in his low-ambient environment. When he went to another environment, his load temperatures increased, although remained within the thermal spec for his processor, and his chip took some damage. The 1.600 V (I think?) irreversibly damaged it below his thermal spec. Ergo, the added 0.250 V MUST have decreased his thermal spec.


----------



## ny_driver

thanks for that explanation. the idea makes more sense now, although I still don't understand how higher voltage could result in a lower temperature.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
thanks for that explanation. the idea makes more sense now, although I still don't understand how higher voltage could result in a lower temperature.









Higher voltages inevitably increse the internal Temps of which there is no real way to measure other then by using a temp sesor as close as possible to the hottest location on the CPU. Sure chips have a temp sensor on/in them but not at each and every transistor and not every transistor will run at the same thermals. Some run faster or slower and some run hotter or colder than others. Any increase in voltage will increase temperatures at the transistor level and those transistors can only take so much. Even if your temp sensor reads under the alotted temps that don't mean you truly are under the transistors temp threshold. I can try to explain it in more detail but it has already been done in another thread seen *HERE*


----------



## Blitz6804

Oh the temperature is higher ny_driver, but the temperature at which instability and the temperature at which damage can result are both lower.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Higher voltages inevitably increse the internal Temps of which there is no real way to measure other then by using a temp sesor as close as possible to the hottest location on the CPU. Sure chips have a temp sensor on/in them but not at each and every transistor and not every transistor will run at the same thermals. Some run faster or slower and some run hotter or colder than others. Any increase in voltage will increase temperatures at the transistor level and those transistors can only take so much. Even if your temp sensor reads under the alotted temps that don't mean you truly are under the transistors temp threshold. I can try to explain it in more detail but it has already been done in another thread seen *HERE*

Thanks N2G...I'll read up on that.

EDIT : very informative......I feel like I know a lot more about the internal workings of the cpu and why some Opty 180's(or whatever) OC better than others, tyvm.

I already decided not to push the cpu any more...it's great @ 2.75GHz and I got my RAM up to DDR500 now...I couldn't really ask for much more out of this old system, although I might get a better cooler and try a little higher......I wouldn't be surprised if I did, lol.

here it is......


----------



## Kryton

My standing rule of thumb about temps is 50C is getting too hot. This takes into account for the possibilty of a individual component getting too hot and I always say, the cooler the better.

I've reached over 3.3GHz with my 180 but that was done on water. I've also found using the highest multi available doesn't always mean the best possible OC.
The higher your multi is set, the harder your CPU works per cycle and anytime it's doing more work per cycle = more heat generated. Normally the highest multi works OK but some chips prefer a lower one for the best possible clockspeed.
At least that's been my experience here.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
My standing rule of thumb about temps is 50C is getting too hot. This takes into account for the possibilty of a individual component getting too hot and I always say, the cooler the better.

I've reached over 3.3GHz with my 180 but that was done on water. I've also found using the highest multi available doesn't always mean the best possible OC.
The higher your multi is set, the harder your CPU works per cycle and anytime it's doing more work per cycle = more heat generated. Normally the highest multi works OK but some chips prefer a lower one for the best possible clockspeed.
At least that's been my experience here.

Interesting, ty Kryton. I lowered my cpu multi 1 notch down to 11 which allows me to go 1:1 with my RAM. I haven't tested the RAM above 250MHz, but I highly doubt that it would work at 270MHz, and right now I'm able to run at 1T. I plan to test the RAM further, as I had already considered a multi of 10 with a higher FSB/memclock. It's stable now and would never get too hot unless I ran intentional stress tests. I'm not very worried with the voltage set to 1.42v on the meter.
EDIT: I just raced a 10 lap race and the max core temp was 48c(which with my limited experience seems pretty darn good). I'm pretty sure I don't do anything more stressful to my system than racing.


----------



## ny_driver

ok this is weird I have to post about it.......all day both cores were idling evenly @ 30-31c. I ran memtest a few times(for an hour or so)to see how high my RAM would go. It passed at 255 and 260MHz, then I skipped 265 and tried 270. It started to post until everything on the screen basically melted down, and I had to reset CMOS. Anyways the weird thing is that now my cores are idling at 34 and 39c.
Same voltage and everything.......any ideas what caused this change in idle temps and why they are now 5 degrees apart?


----------



## playah

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
My standing rule of thumb about temps is 50C is getting too hot. This takes into account for the possibilty of a individual component getting too hot and I always say, the cooler the better.

I've reached over 3.3GHz with my 180 but that was done on water. I've also found using the highest multi available doesn't always mean the best possible OC.
The higher your multi is set, the harder your CPU works per cycle and anytime it's doing more work per cycle = more heat generated. Normally the highest multi works OK but some chips prefer a lower one for the best possible clockspeed.
At least that's been my experience here.


What program are you going by when you measure temps, when I use MBM5 it only reports one core, Core Temp will show both cores but one is always 4C-5C higher than what is showing in MBM5

To who ever suggested using a credit card to straighten bent pins, I owe you one, had some bent pins on a 4800 I've been working on and off for 4 days now and the credit card did the trick


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *playah* 
What program are you going by when you measure temps, when I use MBM5 it only reports one core, Core Temp will show both cores but one is always 4C-5C higher than what is showing in MBM5

To who ever suggested using a credit card to straighten bent pins, I owe you one, had some bent pins on a 4800 I've been working on and off for 4 days now and the credit card did the trick









I use core temp and HW Monitor....and like I said both cores were staying almost even all day. I just checked the voltage and it seems to have decided to raise itself....it's at the same settings, but now is 1.44v instead of 1.42v. How does that happen?







man now I've got a whole mess of voltage testing to do and I hate sticking the multimeter in there since I had that fire.

EDITEDIT: I managed to adjust it back to 1.41v, but the cores are 4-5 degrees apart now. I don't see what would cause them to go from even to 4-5 degrees apart.

EDIT: that was BO who said credit card...I said guitar pick.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *playah* 
To who ever suggested using a credit card to straighten bent pins, I owe you one, had some bent pins on a 4800 I've been working on and off for 4 days now and the credit card did the trick










Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
As for bent pins man, I hate those. Last time I had more than 1 bent I used a credit card. Mechanical pencils work well too (.5 OR smaller).

Yeah that was BlackOmega just a few post back. I have had to use both at the same time on a brand new Opty 180 before I ever got to use it. I was worried I had spent $200.00 for a CPU that I would never be able to use. CC and Mechanical pencil does the trick every time.


----------



## playah

Mine was pretty bad, you had to use both at same time must have been real rough.

Big thanks to BlackOmega, you ever need anything let me know, glad I found this thread


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *playah* 
Mine was pretty bad, you had to use both at same time must have been real rough.

Big thanks to BlackOmega, you ever need anything let me know, glad I found this thread

Pio still needs a board







.


----------



## playah

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Pio still needs a board







.



I still got you in mind


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *playah*


What program are you going by when you measure temps, when I use MBM5 it only reports one core, Core Temp will show both cores but one is always 4C-5C higher than what is showing in MBM5

To who ever suggested using a credit card to straighten bent pins, I owe you one, had some bent pins on a 4800 I've been working on and off for 4 days now and the credit card did the trick










I use HWmonitor.

ny driver, it's not unususal to see a small difference in core temps as long as they are within about 3 to 5C of each other on average. If you experience something like I did with my 165 (21C difference), you have a real problem. After delidding it, this went away and temps were much improved but think I may have damaged a transistor on the chip during the delidding, so beware if you decide to do this. It still works but noted things like Super PI are extremely slow and doesn't clock nearly as well as it had before. 
Haven't fooled with it since but believe it may be possible to fix it with a pencil or some really fine soldering. If anything, it's now a cool running, useable chip that's in no danger of cooking itself at stock voltage.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *playah*


I still got you in mind


I feel loved now


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


I use HWmonitor.

ny driver, it's not unususal to see a small difference in core temps as long as they are within about 3 to 5C of each other on average. If you experience something like I did with my 165 (21C difference), you have a real problem. After delidding it, this went away and temps were much improved but think I may have damaged a transistor on the chip during the delidding, so beware if you decide to do this. It still works but noted things like Super PI are extremely slow and doesn't clock nearly as well as it had before. 
Haven't fooled with it since but believe it may be possible to fix it with a pencil or some really fine soldering. If anything, it's now a cool running, useable chip that's in no danger of cooking itself at stock voltage.


In case you don't remember.....about a month or so ago I had a little delidding incident where I apparently damaged the memory controller so now my 170 only posts with single channel memory configuration. I was hoping to find someone to do some very delicate soldering (probably under a microscope) to attempt a repair, and that someone qualified would think it sounded like a fun challenge. The only reason I operated on it in the first place was because I was all worried about it hitting mid 60's under testing while it was overclocked 1000MHz and I was using an ACfreezer64pro......I feel kinda dumb about that and it'd be great to get it repaired.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


In case you don't remember.....about a month or so ago I had a little delidding incident where I apparently damaged the memory controller so now my 170 only posts with single channel memory configuration. I was hoping to find someone to do some very delicate soldering (probably under a microscope) to attempt a repair, and that someone qualified would think it sounded like a fun challenge. The only reason I operated on it in the first place was because I was all worried about it hitting mid 60's under testing while it was overclocked 1000MHz and I was using an ACfreezer64pro......I feel kinda dumb about that and it'd be great to get it repaired.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
















































you are a real funny guy....................


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*









you are a real funny guy....................










Hueristic tells me some members including my self have offered suggestions that you either don't understand or more or less disregard all together. Some one asked you if you could post a high res image of the damage on the chip and I don't think I ever saw one. It might be difficult to determin if a repair could even be done in the first place just by here say as to what you interpret as being damaged. Images can and do speak for them self when it comes to questions like yours. If you can't take a picture you could use a flat bed scanner as blitz mentioned. Either way I don't think any one is gonna want to work on a CPU just for the heck of it w/out any payback or trade off.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
In case you don't remember.....about a month or so ago I had a little delidding incident where I apparently damaged the memory controller so now my 170 only posts with single channel memory configuration. I was hoping to find someone to do some very delicate soldering (probably under a microscope) to attempt a repair, and that someone qualified would think it sounded like a fun challenge. The only reason I operated on it in the first place was because I was all worried about it hitting mid 60's under testing while it was overclocked 1000MHz and I was using an ACfreezer64pro......I feel kinda dumb about that and it'd be great to get it repaired.

Yeah, now I remember....
















If you could use a flatbed scanner, that would give the best reference pics of your problem.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Hueristic tells me some members including my self have offered suggestions that you either don't understand or more or less disregard all together. Some one asked you if you could post a high res image of the damage on the chip and I don't think I ever saw one. It might be difficult to determin if a repair could even be done in the first place just by here say as to what you interpret as being damaged. Images can and do speak for them self when it comes to questions like yours. If you can't take a picture you could use a flat bed scanner as blitz mentioned. Either way I don't think any one is gonna want to work on a CPU just for the heck of it w/out any payback or trade off.









I'm pretty sure I have never intentionally disregarded any of your helpful suggestions or anyone elses...........you see I wouldn't be here if I didn't want to hear your suggestions. Some stuff I may not understand right off, but as you know I'm not opposed to asking questions. I don't have a camera available, I don't have a scanner & it cost $5 to scan one image, and it just kinda got moved on to the back burner. Hoping that someone would think it would be fun to attempt to fix it was just a dream I had, and I wouldn't be at all surprised if they wanted to get paid something. The only reason it's a current topic is because Kryton mentioned a similar incident.
Sorry if I have offended you or anyone else here by seeming to disregard a suggestion.


----------



## pioneerisloud

You haven't offended me


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Yeah, now I remember....
















If you could use a flatbed scanner, that would give the best reference pics of your problem.

I plan to try a scanner when I get a chance, or maybe just a good camera. Like I said in the previous post it just got put on the back burner for awhile.
EDIT: I think I may have a scanner available this weekend......I didn't think to take the chip last time I went there.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
I plan to try a scanner when I get a chance, or maybe just a good camera. Like I said in the previous post it just got put on the back burner for awhile.
EDIT: I think I may have a scanner available this weekend......I didn't think to take the chip last time I went there.

I've tried both methods before and the scanner is much better - To the point you'll see things you've missed. Gives a great deal of detail and that's important to see when you talk about things that small.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
I've tried both methods before and the scanner is much better - To the point you'll see things you've missed. Gives a great deal of detail and that's important to see when you talk about things that small.

Thanks for sharing your experience Kryton. The scanner it will be then. I can't see anything with a magnifying glass so I'm finding it hard to believe that I'll be able to see anything more with a scanner image. I'm basing that on nothing though, and definitely NOT calling you a liar .....I'm just the type of person that needs to see it to believe it.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *playah*


Big thanks to BlackOmega, you ever need anything let me know, glad I found this thread


 No problem man







Glad it worked for you. 
And if I can ever think of anything I might need







I'll definitely let you know.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Pio still needs a board







.


 Don't worry haven't forgot about you yet. It's been a little slow going since the wifes belly has been hurting when she picks stuff up (she's prego again), so that means _I_ have to do _everything_. :swearing:

But I'm planning on swapping the stuff out here in the next half hour to an hour and I'll let ya know. (Can't be up too late tonight have class in the A.M. with my sexy teacher







.)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Thanks for sharing your experience Kryton. The scanner it will be then. I can't see anything with a magnifying glass so I'm finding it hard to believe that I'll be able to see anything more with a scanner image. I'm basing that on nothing though, and definitely NOT calling you a liar .....I'm just the type of person that needs to see it to believe it.


 When you scan the image it usually comes back at a really high resolution so you can zoom in on spots and actually get more magnification than you'd be able to get with a magnifying glass and the naked eye.

I'm betting that you knicked one of the "legs" on one of the transistors and now part of the IMC is not getting power.

As for the soldering, hell I'd do it for free.... well sort of, the only thing I'd ask for is a soldering iron with a small enough tip to solder it. And I would most definitely view it as a challenge.







(Still want to see an image though).


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


When you scan the image it usually comes back at a really high resolution so you can zoom in on spots and actually get more magnification than you'd be able to get with a magnifying glass and the naked eye.
I'm betting that you knicked one of the "legs" on one of the transistors and now part of the IMC is not getting power. 
As for the soldering, hell I'd do it for free.... well sort of, the only thing I'd ask for is a soldering iron with a small enough tip to solder it. And I would most definitely view it as a challenge.







(Still want to see an image though).


 Thank you for your offer.







I'll get a scanner image this weekend if I can. A soldering iron designed for nearly microscopic work like that might cost more than another cpu? You'd have to have microscope I think, too. I don't know for sure. I'll definitely get an image we can look at though.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Thank you for your offer.







I'll get a scanner image this weekend if I can. A soldering iron designed for nearly microscopic work like that might cost more than another cpu? You'd have to have microscope I think, too. I don't know for sure. I'll definitely get an image we can look at though.


 No problem, I view it as a challenge.









At any rate I just glanced at my de-lidded 3500+ and while the transistors are very small, I think with a fine enough tip and a good magnifying glass; there shouldn't be any issues.

As for the soldering iron, they actually have replaceable tips although I wouldn't be able to use mine because it's too hot. Mine's more for general use/automotive. I would need a 15w iron and a super fine tip. Radio shack has them; the soldering iron is ~$20. I know they have the tips but I am unsure what their price is.


----------



## ny_driver

By transistors, do you mean the little things that surround the core? If so I'm positive(almost) that I didn't touch them. I'll get the scanner image done as asap, then we can all see the damage and make a decision.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


By transistors, do you mean the little things that surround the core? If so I'm positive(almost) that I didn't touch them. I'll get the scanner image done as asap, then we can all see the damage and make a decision.


 Yep, that's exactly what I mean. Other than those, there's not really a whole hell of a lot you can damage on it other than the pins and the printed circuit board (PCB) itself.


----------



## ny_driver

I think all I did was scratch the black strip on the edge of the PCB under the adhesive trying to pry off the top like an idiot. It's probably worse than if I had just nicked the leg of a transistor. We'll see.







might be a piece o' cake.


----------



## Blitz6804

I believe mine is a 15 W iron, but the tip is rather large. I heard that you can wrap the iron in bare wire to provide yourself with a wire-thin tip, but I never tried. (Never had a need to.)


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Thanks for sharing your experience Kryton. The scanner it will be then. I can't see anything with a magnifying glass so I'm finding it hard to believe that I'll be able to see anything more with a scanner image. I'm basing that on nothing though, and definitely NOT calling you a liar .....I'm just the type of person that needs to see it to believe it.


OK - Here is an example I did with a Socket A chip I had questions about awhile back. 
Turns out the chip isn't what it appears to be and it's dead too. The label is a fake so it's not a 2400 chip but didn't matter since it was dead anyway. 
You can see the damage to the edge of the chip's core plainly along with other details.
Mind you the scanner used to make this pic is almost ten years old now, so most anything you'd use to scan yours with would be even better than this is.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I think all I did was scratch the black strip on the edge of the PCB under the adhesive trying to pry off the top like an idiot. It's probably worse than if I had just nicked the leg of a transistor. We'll see.







might be a piece o' cake.


 Yeah you just gotta keep cutting until it almost lifts off on it's own. I think I went through 6 razors blades on my utility knife taking the one off of the 3500+. It took like 15-20 minutes IIRC.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I believe mine is a 15 W iron, but the tip is rather large. I heard that you can wrap the iron in bare wire to provide yourself with a wire-thin tip, but I never tried. (Never had a need to.)


 Mine has interchangeable tips but it's just too damn hot, 30w. That's why it was so easy to melt through the epoxy on my Ultra-D.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


OK - Here is an example I did with a Socket A chip I had questions about awhile back. 
Turns out the chip isn't what it appears to be and it's dead too. The label is a fake so it's not a 2400 chip but didn't matter since it was dead anyway. 
You can see the damage to the edge of the chip's core plainly along with other details.
Mind you the scanner used to make this pic is almost ten years old now, so most anything you'd use to scan yours with would be even better than this is.


 Looks like the bottom right took some damage, at the top right edge, is that damage or fuzzy crap on the scanner?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I'll get the scanner image done as asap, then we can all see the damage and make a decision.


----------



## redhat_ownage

I've been lagging on getting the stuff to finish up the sli-dr, im sorry.
its not that i don't have time i have all the time in the world lol.
i just don't have my bike running at the moment and I've been stuck at home, and working only 1 day a week hasn't helped much either.
i might be able to get the materials this weekend. then i will have my father reball the board and chip,since he has steadier hands than i.
i say there's a 40% chance of this board living again
then i will pop in my 4000 and clock the hell out of it


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


OK - Here is an example I did with a Socket A chip I had questions about awhile back. 
Turns out the chip isn't what it appears to be and it's dead too. The label is a fake so it's not a 2400 chip but didn't matter since it was dead anyway. 
You can see the damage to the edge of the chip's core plainly along with other details.
Mind you the scanner used to make this pic is almost ten years old now, so most anything you'd use to scan yours with would be even better than this is.


I hope it looks brighter when I scan it or we wont be able to see very much.....I'll have to scan it a few times and make some adjustments I imagine.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Yeah you just gotta keep cutting until it almost lifts off on it's own. I think I went through 6 razors blades on my utility knife taking the one off of the 3500+. It took like 15-20 minutes IIRC.


lol.....I used one of the standard razor blades that comes with the blade wrapped in cardboard and the back is nice to hold on to......took me about 1 minute(30 seconds really).....but I'm 99.9% sure I damaged it prior to involving the razor blade. Hopefully the image is at least as good as Krytons example.

EDIT: I'm not the brightest bulb sometimes...I was trying to pry it without cutting it at all or having read any instructions.







definitely the stupidest PC thing I ever did.


----------



## ny_driver

EDIT : problem solved(well, figured out anyways)....this mobo has a known "cold boot issue". I read about several others that had the same trouble. No big deal.....I can work with it.

ok here is todays annoying computer problem.......I have the system running fine and tested at the following settings...CPU 1.41v/250 FSB x 11/250MHz RAM [email protected] if I shut the system down completely(not-restart) and then try to restart it won't post at those settings, however if I go to bios and set everything the same except lower the FSB to 245 it posts then if I immediately go back to bios and up it to 250 it posts and runs fine.
Any ideas why this would be, or has anyone ever experienced a similar situation?








to answer a couple possible questions you may ask me ahead of time.......the RAM passes memtest @ 260MHz...the cpu passes S&M although the max temp is a little high(67c)

thanks for taking the time to read my post







one thing right after another....that's life I guess.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
ok here is todays annoying computer problem.......I have the system running fine and tested at the following settings...CPU 1.41v/250 FSB x 11/250MHz RAM [email protected] if I shut the system down completely(not-restart) and then try to restart it won't post at those settings, however if I go to bios and set everything the same except lower the FSB to 245 it posts then if I immediately go back to bios and up it to 250 it posts and runs fine.
Any ideas why this would be, or has anyone ever experienced a similar situation?








to answer a couple possible questions you may ask me ahead of time.......the RAM passes memtest @ 260MHz...the cpu passes S&M although the max temp is a little high(67c)

thanks for taking the time to read my post







one thing right after another....that's life I guess.

try bumping chipset voltage. Or use software OC when you get in Win.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
try bumping chipset voltage. Or use software OC when you get in Win.

the only voltage adjustments I have in bios are cpu, ram, and AGP voltage? you didn't mean AGP did you?


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


Okkkkk
Running 8+ hrs of prime95
One core (worker 2) fail sat 7hrs n 59mins, I guess this is why you do 8+ hours.
I have no clue why.
It says I have a rounding error where it's .4995117788, expected less than .4

Could it have something to do with the fact that when I first did this I WAS on 32bit or maybe is it because I under volted it from regular 1.35 to 1.325


now i tried
increasing the voltage in the bios to 1.3375
run prime95
but
my computer now freezes after around an hour 
any ideas?


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


now i tried
increasing the voltage in the bios to 1.3375
run prime95
but
my computer now freezes after around an hour 
any ideas?


try going a little higher and maybe try S&M for stress testing at 100% load/short duration, then you will know in about 5 minutes if it's unstable, I just recently learned of this tool and I like it because I hate sitting there waiting for prime.

And on a personal note I tried raising the agp voltage to 1.55 and 1.6 with no difference. But I have found that if I up the cpu voltage it posts 1st try @ those settings, but I don't want to up the cpu voltage anymore. It passes S&M at 1.42v why won't it post







computers are CRAZY, I love em'....I'm going to test every voltage option available w/ a meter and make myself a Neo2 voltage chart. Someone has probably already done it because the voltages are whacked on this thing.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


try going a little higher and maybe try S&M for stress testing at 100% load/short duration, then you will know in about 5 minutes if it's unstable, I just recently learned of this tool and I like it because I hate sitting there waiting for prime.


which test is s&m?
i only see small, large, blend and custom


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


try going a little higher and maybe try S&M for stress testing at 100% load/short duration, then you will know in about 5 minutes if it's unstable, I just recently learned of this tool and I like it because I hate sitting there waiting for prime.

And on a personal note I tried raising the agp voltage to 1.55 and 1.6 with no difference. But I have found that if I up the cpu voltage it posts 1st try @ those settings, but I don't want to up the cpu voltage anymore. It passes S&M at 1.42v why won't it post







computers are CRAZY, I love em'....I'm going to test every voltage option available w/ a meter and make myself a Neo2 voltage chart. Someone has probably already done it because the voltages are whacked on this thing.


By raising you CPU voltage your applying more to the IMC. It would be better for temps if you could apply it at the chipset.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


which test is s&m?
i only see small, large, blend and custom


http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...e-tools-3.html you will find it in the 1st post of that thread...it's a seperate program, not part of prime.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


By raising you CPU voltage your applying more to the IMC. It would be better for temps if you could apply it at the chipset.


I know I don't want to raise the cpu voltage due to increased temperatures, but I was just testing to see what would happen. I don't see any adjustment for chipset voltage, only agp, dram, and cpu.


----------



## ny_driver

I got 600 and 1000 grit wet\\dry sandpaper. I'm going to lap my HS and my cpu.
The before idle temps are 33/37.......will post after temps later.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


ok here is todays annoying computer problem.......I have the system running fine and tested at the following settings...CPU 1.41v/250 FSB x 11/250MHz RAM [email protected] if I shut the system down completely(not-restart) and then try to restart it won't post at those settings, however if I go to bios and set everything the same except lower the FSB to 245 it posts then if I immediately go back to bios and up it to 250 it posts and runs fine. 
Any ideas why this would be, or has anyone ever experienced a similar situation?








to answer a couple possible questions you may ask me ahead of time.......the RAM passes memtest @ 260MHz...the cpu passes S&M although the max temp is a little high(67c)

thanks for taking the time to read my post







one thing right after another....that's life I guess.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


try bumping chipset voltage. Or use software OC when you get in Win.


 ^ This. Also replace the boards watch battery (battery # 2032). Typically if your board doesn't retain the settings then that battery is dead.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


the only voltage adjustments I have in bios are cpu, ram, and AGP voltage? you didn't mean AGP did you?


 No, not AGP voltage. AGP voltage is for your video card. Raising this can damage your GPU.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


now i tried
increasing the voltage in the bios to 1.3375
run prime95
but
my computer now freezes after around an hour 
any ideas?


 Can you post a screen shot of your settings? Or just validate it and provide the link. (I'd actually prefer the validation; more info). 
Also what are your temps like? Idle? Load? Ambient (room temperature)?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


try going a little higher and maybe try S&M for stress testing at 100% load/short duration, then you will know in about 5 minutes if it's unstable, I just recently learned of this tool and I like it because I hate sitting there waiting for prime.

And on a personal note I tried raising the agp voltage to 1.55 and 1.6 with no difference. But I have found that if I up the cpu voltage it posts 1st try @ those settings, but I don't want to up the cpu voltage anymore. It passes S&M at 1.42v why won't it post







computers are CRAZY, I love em'....I'm going to test every voltage option available w/ a meter and make myself a Neo2 voltage chart. Someone has probably already done it because the voltages are whacked on this thing.


 Just so you know, kind of how memtest stresses _only_ the RAM, S&M stresses _only_ the CPU. It does not test the system as a whole. While S&M is a great tool for CPU overclocking, it's hardly an indication of real stability. 
Prime95 on the other hand tests the system as a whole. It utilizes the CPU and ram, thus stressing the IMC. This is where a lot of read/write errors, conflicts will occur. That's why it is probably the most important test to run. 
However, P95 is not infallible. There's tons of threads on here that ring to the tune of "24 hour p95 stable yet crashes after 1 hour of gaming".

IMO, to really test a system S&M, P95 are only a part of the barrage of tests you can throw at it. I usually run 3Dmark06, Crysis benchmark looped for a while, FC2 benchmark looped etc.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


which test is s&m?
i only see small, large, blend and custom


 You're looking at either Prime 95, Orthos or OCCT.

Look on the first page of this thread; towards the bottom of the first post. There'll be a link to a Russian website; scroll down to the S's and it should be the very first one.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I got 600 and 1000 grit wet\\dry sandpaper. I'm going to lap my HS and my cpu.
The before idle temps are 33/37.......will post after temps later.


 Be careful when lapping your heat sink. Those heat pipes are very thin from what I've seen/read.

EDIT: Almost forgot, the voltage setting you're looking for will either be called "Chipset Voltage" or "NB Votlage"; NB stands for *N*orth *B*ridge.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Looks like the bottom right took some damage, at the top right edge, is that damage or fuzzy crap on the scanner?


Fuzzy crap.









Yeah, the core is damaged as you can see and it has another spot not too far from that point.

As stated, this scanner is old and a newer one would do much better and yes, you may need to do it a few times to get the best results with your adjustments so the fine details are plainly visible.


----------



## Hueristic

What is the thickness of a 165 lid? anyone have one lying around and a micrometer? I'm thinking of cnc milling one of mine rather than removeing the entire lid. My Dad has a small 4 axis cnc.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
What is the thickness of a 165 lid? anyone have one lying around and a micrometer? I'm thinking of cnc milling one of mine rather than removeing the entire lid. My Dad has a small 4 axis cnc.

I would think they are all about the same thickness as any other 939 cpu. I can measure my 3500+ lid if that will help you out any. I'm wondering if running the cpu naked produces different results from person to person because of the internal TIM and how good or bad of a job it does in making a good thermal connection between the die and the IHS.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I would think they are all about the same thickness as any other 939 cpu. I can measure my 3500+ lid if that will help you out any. I'm wondering if running the cpu naked procudes different results from person to person because of the internal TIM and how good or bad of a job it does in making a good thermal connection between the die and the IHS.










That's why I want to mill it. I'll use my 3200 for a dry run first. and keep the outside of the lid for stable mounting without worry of cracking the die.


----------



## ny_driver

I was going to just update the earlier post with my after lapping cpu and HS temps., but the results are so amazing I thought they deserved a post of their own!
Anyways, some of you may not even believe it...I'm finding it hard to believe. Before lapping 33c/37c....after lapping 26c/26c







....[same exact settings]...I did have to switch to AS5 though as my TX-2 ran out testing my other mobo earlier. This time I applied it to the HS itself in as thin a layer as you could spread with a credit card because I want all of the exposed heatpipes to be making equal contact with the IHS even though the core is only in the center.....just a theory I developed while lapping and it seems to have panned out ok.







Here is the pictures...I'll have to put the other 3 in a different post. Picture 5 is great, I bet no one has that stepping.









(feel free to skip this paragraph if your in a hurry)
1st edit : now after running S&M with max temp of 55c I get L2 failure.......with the same exact settings as yesterday and it was passing just getting a little too hot. Only difference in the system is the HD, thermal paste, and lapping. I'm stumped on this...I thought L2 failure meant it was getting too hot or just OC too high? It didn't freeze up or anything just reported failure. Help me on a Friday night







EDIT 3: I tested again and only core 0 failed L2, and it only got to 45c...enough to make my head spin.OK:upped voltage a hair from 1.325 +3.3%to 1.35 +3.3% and it passes S&M...max temp of 65c(fpu test)...I don't know why I'm getting different results than yesterday?







(pretty much solved I guess.)

I spent about an hour with just 600 grit and there was still a spot in the middle the size of a penny that had hardly been touched. I obviously kept going until it looked like the rest of the surface. It took many(100's) more strokes. Then I used the 1000 grit for a little while. Definitely worth the $10 in sandpaper that is not even used up. I'll add pictures later...I'm having HD issues right now and I'm trying to get that straightened out. 
Keep your ears open please, for some reason I'm sure I'll need some help.







hence, the 1st edit
Thanks to everyone that suggested lapping.

EDIT: I definitely don't have an adjustment for NB or chipset...maybe you'd like to take a look at the bios main screens. There is a newer mod bios, but I don't think it has it either. http://www.rebelshavenforum.com/sis-...;f=21;t=000087
I should probably take a few minutes and read more of the info on this page again, too.
http://www.rebelshavenforum.com/sis-...;f=21;t=000537
EDITING AGAIN: I looked around the net and you can't adjust the chipset voltage.....I wonder if there is a mod you can do(I have a bag full of different pots and trimmers)...maybe that's not even the problem.

sorry I'm all over the place with this post, but I didn't want to make 8 posts. I was all happy, now I have more problems than I know what to do with...not to mention my sata HD won't get past the blue welcome screen now that I took it out and tested my other mobo with it. That's last on the list a.t.m....EDITEDIT:now the HD is back at the top of the list. It's getting hung up on welcome screen...I got into safe mode once and I tried restoring to yesterday which didn't help and I can't get into safe mode again because it's telling me I must activate my copy of windows to continue. It's legal and activated. In fact when I hooked my Hd to the other mobo to test it earlier it made me activate windows for no apparent reason which I did. Now it wants me to do it again. I put my IDE drive in there and am having no problems, but I need/want my sata drive without another stupid reformat. Do you think it's possible that the other Neo2 with the old old bios that didn't even recognize my cpu as dual core could have whacked out my HD. (I have 2 Neo2's besides the fire victim)


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I was going to just update the earlier post with my after lapping cpu and HS temps., but the results are so amazing I thought they deserved a post of their own!
Anyways, some of you may not even believe it...I'm finding it hard to believe. Before lapping 33c/37c....after lapping 26c/26c







....[same exact settings]...I did have to switch to AS5 though as my TX-2 ran out testing my other mobo earlier. This time I applied it to the HS itself in as thin a layer as you could spread with a credit card because I want all of the exposed heatpipes to be making equal contact with the IHS even though the core is only in the center.....just a theory I developed while lapping and it seems to have panned out ok.










Want to lap mine









Quote:



Can you post a screen shot of your settings? Or just validate it and provide the link. (I'd actually prefer the validation; more info). 
Also what are your temps like? Idle? Load? Ambient (room temperature)?


i changed the settings now
went with 10x multiplier and 260mhz
or from what i can remember, don't remember if I changed the voltages from 1.3375
its been around 10 hours of prime95 almost nothing happened
YET


----------



## BlackOmega

Your hard drive issue is rather bizarre. If you tested it on an identical board there shouldn't be any difference in drivers so I don't see why it would be having these issues. CPU doesn't matter, it could be a 3500+ or an Opty or even a 4400x2, that makes absolutely no difference. I have actually swapped an opty 165 to a opty 180 to a 3500+ to a 3800x2 all on the same board, same install and everything. At the same time I have even swapped my 2 x 1024 Corsairs for my 4 x 512 Kingtons Hyper-x's. Never once have I had an issue. Although I do believe that they're running the same BIOS (not positive on that though).

It is possible that your HDD is on it's way out. My Maxtor drive drive starting acting strangely right before it completely crapped out and I couldn't even boot from it.

As for Windows XP activation, you don't even need to do that step. You don't get any more usability from doing so other than being able to "upgrade" to Internet explorer 8 and WMP 10. Both of which are bloated and don't really add any more usability than IE7 or WMP 9 have. Although WMP 10 does look nicer, it's Vistaesque.

Your lapping results are good, although it's kind of odd that that your CPU still gets that hot while running the FPu test.

An FYI, after lapping remember to use less TIM than you normally would. Also, the "fancy" TIM's are no real benefit with a lapped CPU/cooler. The TIM can actually work as an insulator and not allow optimal heat transfer. Through all my testing, I have found that the thin white pigeon poop TIM that comes with coolers actually works the best because it's so thin. When you have 2 lapped surfaces they're so flat and have such good contact that almost no TIM is needed at all. I'd say try reseating your cooler, use the white pigeon poop TIM, apply it directly to the cooler but just use a lot less.
DO NOT SPREAD IT WITH A CREDIT CARD OR ANYTHING ELSE. The pressure from putting the cooler on will spread it out.

@ Pio: So i managed to test the other board out last night and wouldn't ya know it, it fails at exactly the same frequency as the other board. So now I'm starting to wonder if this is actually a CPU issue and not a board issue. It just seems odd that _both_ boards would fail at 320. I'll swap out the 180 for my 3800x2 tomorrow and see if my result changes. Although, I don't see how the CPU could affect that.


----------



## ny_driver

oops...I guess I'll ad the pictures here seeing how I accidentally double posted earlier.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
I was going to just update the earlier post with my after lapping cpu and HS temps., but the results are so amazing I thought they deserved a post of their own!
Anyways, some of you may not even believe it...I'm finding it hard to believe. Before lapping 33c/37c....after lapping 26c/26c







....[same exact settings]...I did have to switch to AS5 though as my TX-2 ran out testing my other mobo earlier. This time I applied it to the HS itself in as thin a layer as you could spread with a credit card because I want all of the exposed heatpipes to be making equal contact with the IHS even though the core is only in the center.....just a theory I developed while lapping and it seems to have panned out ok.









EDIT: I knew it was too good to be true....after a couple hours I look and it's at 30/34 right now....hmmmmm I know it didn't get any warmer in here, and I changed nothing.







this chip is weird.....it acted the same way before...the cores ran even at first, then after awhile one decided it wanted to run about 5c hotter. Must take awhile to get warmed up, like a mean 3 cylinder 2 stroke snowmobile







(Polaris Indy 650)


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Your hard drive issue is rather bizarre. If you tested it on an identical board there shouldn't be any difference in drivers so I don't see why it would be having these issues. CPU doesn't matter, it could be a 3500+ or an Opty or even a 4400x2, that makes absolutely no difference. I have actually swapped an opty 165 to a opty 180 to a 3500+ to a 3800x2 all on the same board, same install and everything. At the same time I have even swapped my 2 x 1024 Corsairs for my 4 x 512 Kingtons Hyper-x's. Never once have I had an issue. Although I do believe that they're running the same BIOS (not positive on that though).

It is possible that your HDD is on it's way out. My Maxtor drive drive starting acting strangely right before it completely crapped out and I couldn't even boot from it.

As for Windows XP activation, you don't even need to do that step. You don't get any more usability from doing so other than being able to "upgrade" to Internet explorer 8 and WMP 10. Both of which are bloated and don't really add any more usability than IE7 or WMP 9 have. Although WMP 10 does look nicer, it's Vistaesque.

Your lapping results are good, although it's kind of odd that that your CPU still gets that hot while running the FPu test.

An FYI, after lapping remember to use less TIM than you normally would. Also, the "fancy" TIM's are no real benefit with a lapped CPU/cooler. The TIM can actually work as an insulator and not allow optimal heat transfer. Through all my testing, I have found that the thin white pigeon poop TIM that comes with coolers actually works the best because it's so thin. When you have 2 lapped surfaces they're so flat and have such good contact that almost no TIM is needed at all. I'd say try reseating your cooler, use the white pigeon poop TIM, apply it directly to the cooler but just use a lot less.
DO NOT SPREAD IT WITH A CREDIT CARD OR ANYTHING ELSE. The pressure from putting the cooler on will spread it out.

I have no way of knowing about the HD...I got it new a couple years ago and I don't think it's been abused. What I do know about is the HS surface having 8 grooves in it 1 on each side of each heatpipe and I'm afraid air might get in there even though both surfaces are lapped smooth. Wouldn't it be better for every square millimeter of exposed heatpipe to be making contact with the cpu HS? I know you told me once before not to do it the way I did it, but it seems so logical to me. I did it the way you told me until tonight, but I wasn't really having the greatest results. I had no idea how un-flat my cpu surface was. I think I really only gained/subtracted about 3-4c. I'll try reseating it your way and see if it improves things at all. And I only have AS5 left. Should I grab some junk silicone hs compound from radio shack?


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Both of which are bloated and don't really add any more usability than IE7 or WMP 9 have.

. . .

I'll swap out the 180 for my 3800x2 tomorrow and see if my result changes. Although, I don't see how the CPU could affect that.









Personally, on XP systems, I advocate leaving IE6 on there. IE7 is markably much slower than IE6 on an XP system. I never tested on anything newer than XP to see if this is also the case however.

As to the HTT: maybe that chip just has a limited HTT? Can that same chip ever get higher than 320 on some other board?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
And I only have AS5 left.

Remember, that takes about 50-100 hours to settle in, 200 hours to cure fully.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *ny_driver*   I have no way of knowing about the HD...I got it new a couple years ago and I don't think it's been abused. What I do know about is the HS surface having 8 grooves in it 1 on each side of each heatpipe and I'm afraid air might get in there even though both surfaces are lapped smooth. Wouldn't it be better for every square millimeter of exposed heatpipe to be making contact with the cpu HS? I know you told me once before not to do it the way I did it, but it seems so logical to me. I did it the way you told me until tonight, but I wasn't really having the greatest results. I had no idea how un-flat my cpu surface was. I think I really only gained/subtracted about 3-4c. I'll try reseating it your way and see if it improves things at all. And I only have AS5 left. Should I grab some junk silicone hs compound from radio shack?  
 As far as your TIM is concerned, if all you have left it AS5 then just use that, just use a lot less of it.

Regarding the spreading of the TIM, with your cooler the spaces between the heatpipe and the metal bracket is so small that filling that in probably wont affect temperatures very much at all. However, spreading the TIM with a CC or anything else can actually cause air bubbles to form in the TIM once the cooler is on it. While these air bubbles would be very small, they will effectively reduce the contact with your cooler. The longer you run it the worse temps will get, kind of like the results you're seeing.

Watch this video, it shows exactly how the different application techniques spread. You'll notice the very first one where they use the method you're using creates TONS of air bubbles throughout the TIM.

  
 



  



 

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *blitz6804*   Personally, on XP systems, I advocate leaving IE6 on there. IE7 is markably much slower than IE6 on an XP system. I never tested on anything newer than XP to see if this is also the case however.

As to the HTT: maybe that chip just has a limited HTT? Can that same chip ever get higher than 320 on some other board?  
 I've never had a problem with IE7 to tell you honestly; it's not any slower than FF.

As for my 180, I can't recall if I ever did a ref. clock check with that CPU on my CFX or not.







At any rate, I'll just try a different CPU to verify my hunch. If all that fails I suppose i could try my CFX, but that would require an OS re-install, which I'm not to excited to do.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Remember, that takes about 50-100 hours to settle in, 200 hours to cure fully.


I'll probably never buy it again. What do you use blitz?

@ BO....if you look at the pictures you'll see what I mean about the grooves...and they're not really that small. I can easily catch my fingernail in them. I will follow your instructions though because what you are saying sounds very logical and reasonable. GTG watch the youtube link, thanks.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I'll probably never buy it again.


 AS5 is good paste, but it's getting old. There are considerably better TIM's out there. IC Diamond 7, OCZ freeze, MX-2, MX-3 and there are several Shin etsu TIM's that are also very good.

I was part of the testing for IC diamond 7. THey sent me a tube for free and asked me to apply it to my rigs. On both of my rigs at the time (both 939's) I saw a 3C idle temp drop and a 7C load temp drop over _cured_ AS5. That was on my unlapped Opty 180 and my delidded 3500+. ICD7 is awesome stuff IMO.

OCZ freeze while being better than AS5 was not as good as ICD7. My results were somewhat atypical as most people only saw a 3C temp drop over the most commonly used TIMs'.


----------



## cssorkinman

I have an old MSI neo 8F motherboard with a 3000+ and a gig of ram on it. It was pulled from a rig that was having problems, but i never got a chance to diagnose what was wrong. I would like to see if i could find what is wrong, but i dont have a spare case around , and i dont want to tear apart one of my other rigs to try to get this thing going. 
I was wondering, in the absence of a power switch, can you get it to power up by puting a jumper on the power switch terminals on the motherboard?


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


AS5 is good paste, but it's getting old. There are considerably better TIM's out there. IC Diamond 7, OCZ freeze, MX-2, MX-3 and there are several Shin etsu TIM's that are also very good.

I was part of the testing for IC diamond 7. THey sent me a tube for free and asked me to apply it to my rigs. On both of my rigs at the time (both 939's) I saw a 3C idle temp drop and a 7C load temp drop over _cured_ AS5. That was on my unlapped Opty 180 and my delidded 3500+. ICD7 is awesome stuff IMO.

OCZ freeze while being better than AS5 was not as good as ICD7. My results were somewhat atypical as most people only saw a 3C temp drop over the most commonly used TIMs'.


Thanks for the info.
I see many videos of people spreading the compound with rubber glove to get it very this....could definitely get it much thinner than I did with credit card. What do you think about that? You see I think I want it much thinner(now that it's lapped) than I see them getting it with any of their methods.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*


I have an old MSI neo 8F motherboard with a 3000+ and a gig of ram on it. It was pulled from a rig that was having problems, but i never got a chance to diagnose what was wrong. I would like to see if i could find what is wrong, but i dont have a spare case around , and i dont want to tear apart one of my other rigs to try to get this thing going. 
I was wondering, in the absence of a power switch, can you get it to power up by puting a jumper on the power switch terminals on the motherboard?


touch the two pins for a second with a screwdriver or something to start it and then hold it on the 2 pins for about 5 seconds to shut it off.


----------



## cssorkinman

Thanks NYdriver , i'll give it a try.


----------



## Blitz6804

ny_driver: I used Arctic Silver 5 until a few months ago. At that time I switched to OCZ Freeze Extreme and saw a 1Âº C idle / 2Âº C load improvement from AS5.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


AS5 is good paste, but it's getting old. There are considerably better TIM's out there. IC Diamond 7, OCZ freeze, MX-2, MX-3 and there are several Shin etsu TIM's that are also very good.

I was part of the testing for IC diamond 7. THey sent me a tube for free and asked me to apply it to my rigs. On both of my rigs at the time (both 939's) I saw a 3C idle temp drop and a 7C load temp drop over _cured_ AS5. That was on my unlapped Opty 180 and my delidded 3500+. ICD7 is awesome stuff IMO.

OCZ freeze while being better than AS5 was not as good as ICD7. My results were somewhat atypical as most people only saw a 3C temp drop over the most commonly used TIMs'.


I know a guy that swears by ICD7. Been wanting to try it and perhaps the next time I need some TIM, I'll get a few tubes.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Thanks for the info.
I see many videos of people spreading the compound with rubber glove to get it very this....could definitely get it much thinner than I did with credit card. What do you think about that?


 Don't waste your time bud. Just use the pea method and you should be all set.

SO you know, if you spread it thinner, the TIM will most likely dry out before you're able to get the heat sink mounted. And therefore making temps even worse.

Or you might want to try putting 1 smaller than pea size dot on the 2 pipes in the center. I usually lay my rig down on it's side to work on this type of stuff. Makes it easier to mount the heatsink and other various components.

Makes me wonder if people actually work on their rigs standing up....









EDIT:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


I know a guy that swears by ICD7. Been wanting to try it and perhaps the next time I need some TIM, I'll get a few tubes.


Dude it is awesome stuff, I was so sad when I ran out







 The tube they sent me actually lasted quite a while.

A couple of things you should know about it:
1. It is EXTREMELY thick. I used to set my tube in a glass of almost boiling water for ~5 minutes so it would spread easier.
2. When putting your heatsink on, it is recommended to push down rather hard on the heat sink to ensure that it spreads evenly.
3. It makes for one hell of a polish for after lapping, works really well. Be careful with stock heatsinks as it will polish out the laser etched steppings and such. Did it on my opty 180, it's actually somewhat difficult to read the numbers off of it. You have to angle it just right so you catch a reflection of a bulb to see it. 
 All in all really good stuff.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Don't waste your time bud. Just use the pea method and you should be all set.

SO you know, if you spread it thinner, the TIM will most likely dry out before you're able to get the heat sink mounted. And therefore making temps even worse.

Or you might want to try putting 1 smaller than pea size dot on the 2 pipes in the center. I usually lay my rig down on it's side to work on this type of stuff. Makes it easier to mount the heatsink and other various components.

Makes me wonder if people actually work on their rigs standing up....









EDIT:

Dude it is awesome stuff, I was so sad when I ran out







The tube they sent me actually lasted quite a while.

A couple of things you should know about it:
1. It is EXTREMELY thick. I used to set my tube in a glass of almost boiling water for ~5 minutes so it would spread easier.
2. When putting your heatsink on, it is recommended to push down rather hard on the heat sink to ensure that it spreads evenly.
3. It makes for one hell of a polish for after lapping, works really well. Be careful with stock heatsinks as it will polish out the laser etched steppings and such. Did it on my opty 180, it's actually somewhat difficult to read the numbers off of it. You have to angle it just right so you catch a reflection of a bulb to see it. 
 All in all really good stuff.


Nice tips and I'll try some. Maybe with that stuff I can get some nice cool temps going for obvious reasons.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
touch the two pins for a second with a screwdriver or something to start it and then hold it on the 2 pins for about 5 seconds to shut it off.

Worked perfectly, figured out that there was one defective ram module... the old 3000 + is back in business







Thx!


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Personally, on XP systems, I advocate leaving IE6 on there. IE7 is markably much slower than IE6 on an XP system. I never tested on anything newer than XP to see if this is also the case however.


I advocate completely unistalling IE.
















Rep for the nice lap job on the exposed heatpipes NV!









http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...urrection.html


----------



## ny_driver

I've got a scanner at hand and here is the first image @ 600dpi
I'm in the process of scanning one at 2400dpi, but it's slow.

As you can see I gouged the edge at the top right. On the left side you can see where I just nicked the surface enough to expose the copper underneath in a couple spots near the middle, and another tiny gouge towards the bottom from attempting to pry. There is really nothing on the core, it must be something on the scanner or some residue from using 50% alcohol to swab it off right before scanning. I have 91% at home, but I wanted to clean off the transistors edges real good and all that's here is 50% junk.

I'm pretty sure that I didn't damage the transistors, I was careful (believe it or not) about not sticking the blade in too far.

I'll post a better image if I can....if it ever finishes and it's not too big to post. Hopefully you can d/l the image and zoom it in good like I can here.

Here is an imageshack pic of it if that's better for you I don't know.
http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/7...re002paint.jpg


----------



## Blitz6804

You likely need to take the 2400 DPI image and crop only the important part. We do not need the IHS this time out.


----------



## ny_driver

I'm working on trying to figure out how to crop and edit, and the 2400dpi is only half done scanning.
EDIT: I got it figured out. Pictures are on their way. There that's apretty good picture (600dpi cropped)....I'll still add the 2400dpi cropped though in alittle while.

EDIT: no problem cssorkinman, I'm more than happy to help when I actually know the answer to something.


----------



## Blitz6804

Strange, everything looks fine. Silly question, have you counted that you still have 939 pins not that one accidentally broke off? Worse case, scan that side of the chip.


----------



## Hueristic

Sorry man but that looks horrible. I'm not seeing a easy repair there. Can you get a zoom in on those 3 area's.


----------



## ny_driver

I scanned it at 2400dpi, but it didn't save or something. I'm on a strange computer so I'll just try scanning it again later to try to zoom in better on the requested areas. I'll be back later tonight.
EDIT:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Strange, everything looks fine. Silly question, have you counted that you still have 939 pins not that one accidentally broke off? Worse case, scan that side of the chip.

I am surprised to hear anyone say it looks fine. All the pins are there.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
Sorry man but that looks horrible. I'm not seeing a easy repair there. Can you get a zoom in on those 3 area's.

That's more like what I expected to hear........ like I said I'll do my best to get a better zoom on the damaged areas later tonight. I have to go do some stuff.


----------



## Blitz6804

Maybe I am blind, I just cannot see what appears to be wrong. Wanna circle the damaged areas Hue and bounce it back?


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Maybe I am blind, I just cannot see what appears to be wrong. Wanna circle the damaged areas Hue and bounce it back?


Well, the board doesn't look too good in some places.
I circled the two areas that look the worst IMO.


----------



## BlackOmega

Also look on the very bottom slightly towards the left there. That also looks pretty gnarly.


----------



## Acoma_Andy

Has anyone here used the AsRock socket 939 board with the AMD 785G chipset?

I'm planning to get the board for an old AMD San Diego 4000+, but I can't seem to find much about it.

I can order it here for this price:
ASRock 939A785GMH


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Acoma_Andy* 
Has anyone here used the AsRock socket 939 board with the AMD 785G chipset?

I'm planning to get the board for an old AMD San Diego 4000+, but I can't seem to find much about it.

I can order it here for this price:
ASRock 939A785GMH

Is that the new board that they came out with a couple months ago?


----------



## Acoma_Andy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 
Is that the new board that they came out with a couple months ago?

Yes it is, and somehow it got my attention


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Acoma_Andy* 
Has anyone here used the AsRock socket 939 board with the AMD 785G chipset?

I'm planning to get the board for an old AMD San Diego 4000+, but I can't seem to find much about it.

I can order it here for this price:
ASRock 939A785GMH

I don't think anyone has even reviewed that board yet.

It looks interesting to me as well.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HothBase* 
Well, the board doesn't look too good in some places.
I circled the two areas that look the worst IMO.

you circled most of the damaged areas...just the one other spot below the circle on the left I can see copper there too.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Also look on the very bottom slightly towards the left there. That also looks pretty gnarly.

I don't think that is anything BO, just the other 3 spots. I don't know if there is really anything that can be done. It's mostly the spot at the top that worries me.

Do you guys really need the higher res image or can you see well enough with that. It takes me an hour to scan at 2400dpi, and I couldn't find the image after I did it earlier for some reason.


----------



## playah

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Acoma_Andy* 
Yes it is, and somehow it got my attention










That is a pretty interesting find, only thing I found on it

http://www.ocworkbench.com/2009/asro...hmarked/g2.htm


----------



## Acoma_Andy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *playah* 
That is a pretty interesting find, only thing I found on it

http://www.ocworkbench.com/2009/asro...hmarked/g2.htm

Thanks for that. A bit odd review, are they saying it beats the Phenom II?









And a socket 939 rig with a PCI-e 2.0 slot, who would have ever thought that


----------



## playah

That bit about beating the Phenom II really makes it interesting, but that was in the 1st benchmark

It's a mini itx board, but it has some good features, onboard DVI and HDMI .

Looks like some OC features as well,

http://www.pcgameshardware.de/aid,69...ainboard/News/


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *playah* 
It's a mini itx board, but it has some good features, onboard DVI and HDMI .

Looks like some OC features as well,

http://www.pcgameshardware.de/aid,69...ainboard/News/









you mean Micro ATX?


----------



## playah

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 







you mean Micro ATX?

Here they call it a mini-ATX,

http://xtreview.com/addcomment-id-10...5GMH-128M.html

"Intel has also specified a "Mini ATX" motherboard size, which is slightly smaller than the full-sized ATX specification. These boards use the same ATX form factor power supplies and cases. The main difference is that full ATX motherboards have a maximum size of 12"x9.6", and Mini ATX boards have maximum dimensions of 11.2"x8.2"."


----------



## Acoma_Andy

By the way, here is a link to the socket 939 build I'm planning:
http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...urrection.html


----------



## N2Gaming

@ BO HX1000 used $180.00 buy now


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Acoma_Andy*


By the way, here is a link to the socket 939 build I'm planning:
http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...urrection.html


I'm subbed and think i dropped a link in this thread for it. Keep us up to date on what that puppy can do! And All the help you may need is right here. GL









NY_Driver unfortunately I really need a better close up of those 3 area's. Maybe you can find a camera to borrow and zoom in on them?


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


NY_Driver unfortunately I really need a better close up of those 3 area's. Maybe you can find a camera to borrow and zoom in on them?


Rescanning in 2400dpi now. Hopefully that will be better.









tssss...only took like 2 minutes to scan it today







, this computer I'm on has potential, but is very poorly maintained.

Anyways here's the super close up...................enjoy







it's too big I guess, it won't upload...I'll try image shack.
http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/596...dpiopty170.jpg

WOW, a scanner is an amazing tool, I gotta get me one.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Rescanning in 2400dpi now. Hopefully that will be better.









tssss...only took like 2 minutes to scan it today







, this computer I'm on has potential, but is very poorly maintained.

Anyways here's the super close up...................enjoy







it's too big I guess, it won't upload...I'll try image shack.
http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/596...dpiopty170.jpg

WOW, a scanner is an amazing tool, I gotta get me one.


The Good: Looks like you may be able to get away with a tinning and cleanup except for 2 places.

The bad: Still can't tell how bad those gouges are. Should be able to Mic the pins out though to check for shorts.

The Ugly: Pacman is eating you cpu! (where's waldo guys?)

:d I'm more hopeful after this image than the previous one.


----------



## nategr8ns

Random off-topic post of the day:
I just realized, I used to be in a CSS clan with a guy named ThInKer...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Rescanning in 2400dpi now. Hopefully that will be better.









tssss...only took like 2 minutes to scan it today







, this computer I'm on has potential, but is very poorly maintained.

Anyways here's the super close up...................enjoy







it's too big I guess, it won't upload...I'll try image shack.
http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/596...dpiopty170.jpg

WOW, a scanner is an amazing tool, I gotta get me one.


I agree with Hue that its hard to tell how bad those gouges are. I don't know if there's anything important that shallow under the surface anyway.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


The Good: Looks like you may be able to get away with a tinning and cleanup except for 2 places.

The bad: Still can't tell how bad those gouges are. Should be able to Mic the pins out though to check for shorts.

The Ugly: Pacman is eating you cpu! (where's waldo guys?)

:d I'm more hopeful after this image than the previous one.


Here is a brief description to go along with the image.............
---the spots circled in yellow are very shallow, but I can see copper shining through.
---the ones circled in blue are very shallow and I cannot see any copper.
---and the one circled in red in not very deep either, it appears so shallow that I'm not sure it even goes all the way through the black layer. I don't think I see any copper.

I don't really know anything about micing the pins out to check for shorts, but it doesn't really sound that complicated, just tedious. 
I've never done any tinning, but I do have a 15watt radio shack soldering iron that I've never used.

here is the circled image..... http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/7...170circled.jpg

EDIT: whoohoooo 600 posts, so I decided I should change my avatar.


----------



## BlackOmega

I think I found your problem.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I think I found your problem.











To the naked eye that appears not to be there at all, but it sure looks like something in the picture. I misplaced my magnifying glass which I'm hunting for now. I'll get back to you in a few.

EDIT:If you compare this image with the one posted 20 hours ago, you will see that that transistor looks just like the rest of them......still hunting for the magnifying glass. Good eye just the same though.

EDIT#2: it looks perfectly normal with the magnifying glass, maybe there was a piece of dust or something on the scanner this morning. Too bad it wasn't that simple.


----------



## Hueristic

Good catch BO, that looks promising.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


@ BO HX1000 used $180.00 buy now


 Wow, not a bad price, but I have no need for a 1000w PSU. Not to mention you can buy a silverstone 850 for $78.99 at ZZF (after MIR)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


To the naked eye that appears not to be there at all, but it sure looks like something in the picture. I misplaced my magnifying glass which I'm hunting for now. I'll get back to you in a few.

EDIT:If you compare this image with the one posted 20 hours ago, you will see that that transistor looks just like the rest of them......still hunting for the magnifying glass. Good eye just the same though.


 Well I scrolled back through the post and looked at the other one you posted up; it's too small to see if that leg is damaged. On the 2400DPI one, to me, it sticks out like a sore thumb (unless that's just some fuzzy crap).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Good catch BO, that looks promising.


 Thanks!







I've always paid attention to the details no matter how subtle.









My little random OT for today: Just got back from Micro center (2 hours of driving :swearing: ) and man that place was crazy! So many freakin people there, so much stuff, some priced nicely; megahalems for $69.99 some not so nice; Xiggy HDTs1283 $55







.
And if any of you guys are in the market for some cheap GPUs', they had 9600GT's/GSO's for $49.99.
I'm not telling what I bought, you guys might disown me







.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 

Well I scrolled back through the post and looked at the other one you posted up; it's too small to see if that leg is damaged. On the 2400DPI one, to me, it sticks out like a sore thumb (unless that's just some fuzzy crap).

Thanks!







I've always payed attention to the details no matter how subtle.









I agree that it does stick out like a sore thumb, but I just scrubbed the chip off with 91% alcohol and a toothbrush to remove all the residue....and it really looks to me, with a magnifying glass, like there must have been something on the scanner this morning.
EDIT: I want to know what is in that black strip I gouged into.


----------



## Kryton

Saw a few other spots to check.
These don't look as bad but they don't look like the other areas I saw in the photo that you can tell are definitely good. Any one of these or all could also be your problem too. There were one or two more but didn't indicate these since they didn't seem as bad looking to me. If you see anything that looks suspect at all, check it to be sure.

BTW sorry for the sloppy arrows....


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Saw a few other spots to check.
These don't look as bad but they don't look like the other areas I saw in the photo that you can tell are definitely good. Any one of these or all could also be your problem too. There were one or two more but didn't indicate these since they didn't seem as bad looking to me. If you see anything that looks suspect at all, check it to be sure.

BTW sorry for the sloppy arrows....










Nice arrows!









It's hard to tell which ones are screwed and which ones are not. To me it looks like there are a lot more damaged legs on the chip.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Saw a few other spots to check.
These don't look as bad but they don't look like the other areas I saw in the photo that you can tell are definitely good. Any one of these or all could also be your problem too. There were one or two more but didn't indicate these since they didn't seem as bad looking to me. If you see anything that looks suspect at all, check it to be sure.

BTW sorry for the sloppy arrows....









Now I have all the excess residue from quick TIM removal cleaned off and I don't have the scanner anymore.








But, I have looked at all the legs under the magnifying glass and they all look fine to me. I think the problem has to be in the gouges and nicks in the surface of the PCB.

EDIT: like I said before, I am fairly positive I didn't touch any of the transistors with the blade. It does look pretty bad in the one picture, but it looks perfect with magnifying glass. that bugs me. I wish I still had the scanner.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I'm not telling what I bought, you guys might disown me







.


Core i7 / x58?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


core i7 920












It's gonna be a while before I put it all together though. I guess I'm just gonna have to stare at the pretty blue box for the time being.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 









It's gonna be a while before I put it all together though. I guess I'm just gonna have to stare at the pretty blue box for the time being.

I have a 920 D0/Bloodrage & UD5/6GB Mushkin Redline









It's fun stuff, very similar to AMD overclocking.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
I have a 920 D0/Bloodrage & UD5/6GB Mushkin Redline









It's fun stuff, very similar to AMD overclocking.

Nice!

I actually thought that by learning more in depth how the i series CPUs' overclock that I would gain more insight into AM3 overclocking as there are a lot of new voltage options that I'm not used to seeing. And something keeps nagging at the back of my head telling me that I'm missing something.
Most likely I'm going to use an Evga board, probably the x58 SLI.

But it is a D0 with a batch number of 39xx, so hopefully it'll be a good clocker. You think it would be worth it to lap it?









I see you're rocking an i3 now, hows the on-chip video? For gaming?


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Don't waste your time bud. Just use the pea method and you should be all set.

SO you know, if you spread it thinner, the TIM will most likely dry out before you're able to get the heat sink mounted. And therefore making temps even worse.

Or you might want to try putting 1 smaller than pea size dot on the 2 pipes in the center. I usually lay my rig down on it's side to work on this type of stuff. Makes it easier to mount the heatsink and other various components.

Makes me wonder if people actually work on their rigs standing up....










so I tried the 2 small drop method and I had someone hold it in place once I got it where I wanted it while I got it hooked, and the temps went up a few degrees(67c s&m I didn't let it finish) from the previous spread with credit card method. 
I removed it again and cleaned it off and put 1 drop in the middle and spread it around with a piece of plastic bag, and my temps went back down to 26-28c idle. Load temp is still hitting 64c on one core(s&m) @ 1.4v. I'm pretty irritated with this cooler.....the idle temps seem pretty ok to me, but I don't see why it's going up almost 40c under load. But only one core gets hot.....the other one only gets up into the high 40s. I don't know what to do.
I think I'll be going into water cooling sometime when I can afford it.


----------



## BlackOmega

So under load the temp difference between the cores you're seeing is almost 20C?


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


So under load the temp difference between the cores you're seeing is almost 20C?


yup...over 15 anyways.....maybe the one reading is somehow wrong because it just doesn't seem right. Do you think that could be possible?


----------



## Tator Tot

Core i Series are definitely a new bag of tricks, but very similar to AMD and such

VTT = CPU-NB Votlage
Uncore = NB Freq
there are dividers now for Intel

It's just a huge bag of tricks

As for this Core i3, it has a 733mhz GPU in it, using DDR3 1066 for VRAM, pretty good I would say.The HD4200 IGP, HD3300, GF9400, & GF9300 are all faster IGP's, but Intel learned not to slouch finally. Only has 12 Unified Shader Processing Units, but they seem to be well optimized and work well.

I can do:
-L4D - Low @ 720p
- TF2 med @ 720p
- DoD:s med @ 720p

Haven't tried many other games yet.

Mass Effect was unplayable. Assassins Creed was decent for a bit, but got choppy.


----------



## playah

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


so I tried the 2 small drop method and I had someone hold it in place once I got it where I wanted it while I got it hooked, and the temps went up a few degrees(67c s&m I didn't let it finish) from the previous spread with credit card method. 
I removed it again and cleaned it off and put 1 drop in the middle and spread it around with a piece of plastic bag, and my temps went back down to 26-28c idle. Load temp is still hitting 64c on one core(s&m) @ 1.4v. I'm pretty irritated with this cooler.....the idle temps seem pretty ok to me, but I don't see why it's going up almost 40c under load. But only one core gets hot.....the other one only gets up into the high 40s. I don't know what to do.
I think I'll be going into water cooling sometime when I can afford it.


I don't think I'd blame the HSF if one core is staying that cool, sounds like the cpu, I got a 165 that does that


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *playah*


I don't think I'd blame the HSF if one core is staying that cool, sounds like the cpu, I got a 165 that does that


I have a 170 that was acting the same way, so I tried to replace the TIM inside and damaged the chip during the IHS removal. Now I get a 180 and it does the same thing....wow, how annoying. So do I just ignore the hot core? The sensor could be incorrect......almost anything is possible.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I have a 170 that was acting the same way, so I tried to replace the TIM inside and damaged the chip during the IHS removal. Now I get a 180 and it does the same thing....wow, how annoying. So do I just ignore the hot core? The sensor could be incorrect......almost anything is possible.


I wouldn't ignore it. How do your cores look at idle? Are they close to the same? If they're near the same, don't ignore it....the sensor probably is just fine. If you have odd idle temps (like I do), then the sensor's probably defective.

My Opty 165, one core idles normal (a few degrees above the CPU temp). The other core idles around ~5-9*C. I know my ambients aren't quite that low, so I know that sensor is screwy.


----------



## Murderous Moppet

Does anyone know of anywhere in Canada that sells the Asrock 939A785GMH/128M? 
That 785G 939 board. I can only find it in the UK.


----------



## playah

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Murderous Moppet*


Does anyone know of anywhere in Canada that sells the Asrock 939A785GMH/128M? 
That 785G 939 board. I can only find it in the UK.


 I haven't found it any where except UK/Europe, maybe we can get someone to send us some


----------



## N2Gaming

Hueristic or some one else mentioned a while ago that you may be able to special order it at Newegg.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I wouldn't ignore it. How do your cores look at idle? Are they close to the same? If they're near the same, don't ignore it....the sensor probably is just fine. If you have odd idle temps (like I do), then the sensor's probably defective.

My Opty 165, one core idles normal (a few degrees above the CPU temp). The other core idles around ~5-9*C. I know my ambients aren't quite that low, so I know that sensor is screwy.


My cores idle temps are very close to equal...around 26-28c. In HWMonitor CPU temp is 32c(about 5c hotter than either core). And while testing @ 100% load(S&M), in HWMonitor the CPU temp and 1 core stays under 50c.







(edited for poor wording)

EDIT: I have not read of anyone having trouble like this with the CCF.....everyone says it's good. Must be the chip and a wild coincidence that I get 2 whacky ones in a row.


----------



## playah

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Hueristic or some one else mentioned a while ago that you may be able to special order it at Newegg.

I just did a search and didn't find anything.


----------



## BlackOmega

Download the Trial Version of everest ultimate and see what the temps say.

Also, remember there are 2 different temps. There's CPU socket temps and coretemps. Coretemps are typically higher than socket temps although that has proven to be the opposite with my AM3 rig. However, with 939's the coretemp will be, on average, ~10C hotter than socket temps.

EDIT:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *playah* 
I just did a search and didn't find anything.

I do believe that you have to call them and place the special order.


----------



## ny_driver

it says the same thing as I just said. I tried to upload a screenshot of it, but the upload failed for some reason.
here is an imageshack link
http://img188.imageshack.us/img188/3...stultimate.png


----------



## BlackOmega

Can you take a load temp screenshot?


----------



## ny_driver

sure, np......

http://img130.imageshack.us/img130/7...timateload.png

(6:39 am)
EDIT#1:The core temp readings come from the chip, does the cpu socket temp also come from the chip?


----------



## playah

That's a heck of a difference there, my 165 isn't that bad, maybe a 4-6C difference


----------



## nategr8ns

driver, my 175 has weird temps too. I don't think its anything to worry about. If you want to get more clocks out of it, then I would just go to better cooling anyway.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
driver, my 175 has weird temps too. I don't think its anything to worry about. If you want to get more clocks out of it, then I would just go to better cooling anyway.

I just sold my ACfreezer64pro with the 4400+(basically threw it in for free)@$100. This CCF I got is supposed to be pretty good, better than the ACfreezer64pro which is why I bought it. I am pretty happy with the idle temps(26-28c) and the temps under normal use........50c max when racing is fine with me. Obviously I'd like to get more than 2.7GHz out of this cpu, but it's a CCBWE








. I've gotten to windows @ 2.9, but I was using too much voltage and it would have gotten very hot if I tested it.

I read your 175 log...it was an interesting read. BTW....I just lapped the cpu and CCF using mostly just 600grit-some wet, but mostly dry sanding, then finished with 1000 grit mostly wet. I posted an album of the pics in my profile. My sig pic is from when I was getting close to done, but there was still a low spot in the center, hence my lack of a nose. And the sun went down so I couldn't get another good picture like that after I finished.


----------



## N2Gaming

ny driver, Have you looked at your CPU usage while underload when those temps are so different to make sure both cores are being stressed at the same percentage. Also do you have the duel core optimizer installed. Some one said in this forum IIRC it may have been Tator tot and what was said is this. You don't have to install a duel core optimizer after one of the XP service packs. I don't remember if it was service pack 2 or 3.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


ny driver, Have you looked at your CPU usage while underload when those temps are so different to make sure both cores are being stressed at the same percentage. Also do you have the duel core optimizer installed. Some one said in this forum IIRC it may have been Tator tot and what was said is this. You don't have to install a duel core optimizer after one of the XP service packs. I don't remember if it was service pack 2 or 3.


yeah they are both being equally loaded, and I have SP3 installed, so I should be in the clear there.....thanks for the idea though.


----------



## FnkDctr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


ny driver, Have you looked at your CPU usage while underload when those temps are so different to make sure both cores are being stressed at the same percentage. Also do you have the duel core optimizer installed. Some one said in this forum IIRC it may have been Tator tot and what was said is this. You don't have to install a duel core optimizer after one of the XP service packs. I don't remember if it was service pack 2 or 3.


I corrected this once, and I'll correct it again. Neither SP2 or SP3 come with it.

If you have it installed you will see it under your msconfig as amd_dc_opt, under add/remove as "Dual-Core Optimizer", and C:\\Program Files\\AMD\\Dual-Core Optimizer.

http://support.amd.com/us/Pages/dyna...42f&ItemID=153

Just because the cpu looks like its even doesn't mean it is. It actually prevents hiccups and bottlenecks and makes 40% of cpu usage much smoother as well as more efficient.

Also, when you remove the heat sinks, does the surface look like it was all contacting the cpu?

Only thing I could think of is single threaded app, lack of dual core optimizer, or a messed up hsf/clamping system.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FnkDctr*


I corrected this once, and I'll correct it again. Neither SP2 or SP3 come with it.

If you have it installed you will see it under your msconfig as amd_dc_opt, under add/remove as "Dual-Core Optimizer", and C:\\Program Files\\AMD\\Dual-Core Optimizer.

http://support.amd.com/us/Pages/dyna...42f&ItemID=153

Just because the cpu looks like its even doesn't mean it is. It actually prevents hiccups and bottlenecks and makes 40% of cpu usage much smoother as well as more efficient.

Also, when you remove the heat sinks, does the surface look like it was all contacting the cpu?

Only thing I could think of is single threaded app, lack of dual core optimizer, or a messed up hsf/clamping system.


I don't see it anywhere, going to try installing it. Thanks FnkDctr!
EDIT: The HS is making good contact...and I just lapped it and the cpu Friday.

Re-EDiT: I installed it, rebooted, and ran s&m, but it didn't change anything as far as the temps go. It's only at 1.39v/+300 MHz, and I'm seeing 48/64c during L1 test. I stopped it.


----------



## godofdeath

Anyone know what type of error this is?

Problem signature:
Problem Event Name:BlueScreen
OS Version:6.1.7600.2.0.0.256.48
Locale ID:1033

Additional information about the problem:
BCCode:d1
BCP1:FFFFFA0004459AD8
BCP2:0000000000000002
BCP3:0000000000000000
BCP4:FFFFF88003C92962
OS Version:6_1_7600
Service Pack:0_0
Product:256_1


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FnkDctr* 
I corrected this once, and I'll correct it again. Neither SP2 or SP3 come with it.

If you have it installed you will see it under your msconfig as amd_dc_opt, under add/remove as "Dual-Core Optimizer", and C:\\Program Files\\AMD\\Dual-Core Optimizer.

http://support.amd.com/us/Pages/dyna...42f&ItemID=153

Just because the cpu looks like its even doesn't mean it is. It actually prevents hiccups and bottlenecks and makes 40% of cpu usage much smoother as well as more efficient.

Also, when you remove the heat sinks, does the surface look like it was all contacting the cpu?

Only thing I could think of is single threaded app, lack of dual core optimizer, or a messed up hsf/clamping system.

I was just going to say the same thing. Neither of the XP service packs come with the optimizer. Although, I have only a couple of programs that actually need it.

__________________________________________________ _______________

My OT help request for the day: Event scheduler program. The kind that pops up and says "Hey, you've got x amount of days to get x done!" something like that's on most phones.

Do you guys know of one? Is there one already built in to the OS that I'm just not seeing?
I made a thread about it but no one seems too interested in helping me out (as is the case most of my life, that's why I have to learn everything myself







).


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I was just going to say the same thing. Neither of the XP service packs come with the optimizer. Although, I have only a couple of programs that actually need it.

__________________________________________________ _______________

My OT help request for the day: Event scheduler program. The kind that pops up and says "Hey, you've got x amount of days to get x done!" something like that's on most phones.

Do you guys know of one? Is there one already built in to the OS that I'm just not seeing? 
I made a thread about it but no one seems too interested in helping me out (as is the case most of my life, that's why I have to learn everything myself







).


In control panel there is a folder called scheduled tasks where you can set a time for a program to run. But you mean a thing to remind you to do stuff it sounds like. I'll keep looking for a few.

EDIT: this is the only thread I ever look at(not entirely, but pretty much).....sorry.

ReEdit: There are a bunch of programs out there...I don't really know which one is good or free. This is what I found. 
http://www.google.com/search?q=event...ient=firefox-a

or maybe look here... http://event-scheduler.ptf.com/


----------



## Hueristic

Well, I got the new expert up and running. I can't get a stable boot useing the yellow slots. Any recommendations?

I'm running a burn-in right now on a mild 400X5 stock voltage folding for awhile. Maybe till after the foldathon.

One of the ddr500 ballistix is bad and I'm trying to get the info from the guy to rma it. Seems it can't be rma'd without a matching email and order number/batch number.









Speaking of which can you guys believe I still have not followed through on the corsair rma! Well they run with loose timeings but I really do need to get back on that.

NY_Driver, Was that connection BO pointed out disconnected? That should be an easy solder. BTW you can grind (file) solder tips down as thin as you need. If that doesn't do it the next thing i would do is on all the spots where the gouge's are use a mic to check for shorts between the pins. If you find some then compare them to your good chip. If it's not shorted on your good chip then all you have to do is clean the copper that is crushed onto the offending pin. make sure any pin that has a dot showing on your good chip does not have copper over the connection. Any pin that doesn't have copper over the pin that has no dot on the good chip can be tinned to replace the connection.

Hope that was clear.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


In control panel there is a folder called scheduled tasks where you can set a time for a program to run. But you mean a thing to remind you to do stuff it sounds like. I'll keep looking for a few.

EDIT: this is the only thread I ever look at(not entirely, but pretty much).....sorry.

ReEdit: There are a bunch of programs out there...I don't really know which one is good or free. This is what I found. 
http://www.google.com/search?q=event...ient=firefox-a


 TY, Ny_Driver! That looks like what I was looking for.
















for you!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Well, I got the new expert up and running. I can't get a stable boot useing the yellow slots. Any recommendations?

I'm running a burn-in right now on a mild 400X5 stock voltage folding for awhile. Maybe till after the foldathon.

One of the ddr500 ballistix is bad and I'm trying to get the info from the guy to rma it. Seems it can't be rma'd without a matching email and order number/batch number.









Speaking of which can you guys believe I still have not followed through on the corsair rma! Well they run with loose timeings but I really do need to get back on that.


 Orange slots work? Quite honestly on all of my DFI boards that's all I've ever used. But that is one hell of a ref clock! Pio would be







over that board.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


NY_Driver, Was that connection BO pointed out disconnected? That should be an easy solder. BTW you can grind (file) solder tips down as thin as you need. If that doesn't do it the next thing i would do is on all the spots where the gouge's are use a mic to check for shorts between the pins. If you find some then compare them to your good chip. If it's not shorted on your good chip then all you have to do is clean the copper that is crushed onto the offending pin. make sure any pin that has a dot showing on your good chip does not have copper over the connection. Any pin that doesn't have copper over the pin that has no dot on the good chip can be tinned to replace the connection.

Hope that was clear.


No that connection BO pointed out was fine, I don't know why it looked that way. And yes pretty clear, but it sounds complicated and very tedious. Not that I am against doing a tedious job, but I really don't know how to go about micing the thing to check for shorts. I honestly do not know even know what you mean by a mic.

EDIT: glad I could help you, BO. ReEDiT: When you decide on a good event reminder program and you like the way it works could you pass it on to me, please? It's probably a good idea for me to have something like that.


----------



## ny_driver

Do you think it's ok to put my OS on my 80GB IDE and everything else on my 250GB sata drive? Will it work ok or will I notice a big slowdown?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


No that connection BO pointed out was fine, I don't know why it looked that way. And yes pretty clear, but it sounds complicated and very tedious. Not that I am against doing a tedious job, but I really don't know how to go about micing the thing to check for shorts. I honestly do not know even know what you mean by a mic.

EDIT: glad I could help you, BO. ReEDiT: When you decide on a good event reminder program and you like the way it works could you pass it on to me, please? It's probably a good idea for me to have something like that.


Here is how to check for continuity(called a short if it's not supposed to be there) with a mic. Yup it will be tedious.








http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/homem...inuitytest.php


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Do you think it's ok to put my OS on my 80GB IDE and everything else on my 250GB sata drive? Will it work ok or will I notice a big slowdown?


 The IDE drive will slow your rig down considerably. I highly recommend against it.

What I usually do is partition my HDD like put the OS on C: which I usually make ~70GB or so and then put all my games and such on the other partition.

Basically, system critical stuff on the C: drive everything else on D: or whatever letter you assign to it.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Here is how to check for continuity(called a short if it's not supposed to be there) with a mic. Yup it will be tedious.








http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/homem...inuitytest.php


Thanks Hueristic, I will read up on that later today. Ohh, just continuity testing...that's not complicated just tedious. But how the heck will I repair a short that small? My hands are very steady, but how will I see what I'm repairing...lol?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


The IDE drive will slow your rig down considerably. I highly recommend against it.

What I usually do is partition my HDD like put the OS on C: which I usually make ~70GB or so and then put all my games and such on the other partition.

Basically, system critical stuff on the C: drive everything else on D: or whatever letter you assign to it.


 Why do you use so much HD space for OS? What else would you consider system critical besides the OS?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Thanks Hueristic, I will read up on that later today. Ohh, just continuity testing...that's not complicated just tedious. But how the heck will I repair a short that small? My hands are very steady, but how will I see what I'm repairing...lol?
Why do you use so much HD space for OS? What else would you consider system critical besides the OS?


 I kinda of leave it for some inevitable whoopsie taking place. I've installed some apps that don't prompt you as to where you want to install it.









I also put like (when I had my XFi installed) the Creative media source stuff on there, and so on. 
I didn't want to put all of my games on there as so far I think I'm around 200GB for games alone. All that I have isn't even installed yet.
















OT: Where the heck has TMJ been?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
Thanks Hueristic, I will read up on that later today. Ohh, just continuity testing...that's not complicated just tedious. But how the heck will I repair a short that small? My hands are very steady, but how will I see what I'm repairing...lol?
Why do you use so much HD space for OS? What else would you consider system critical besides the OS?

One step at a time. If you find a short we will fix that first and if you find a open we will address that second. For a short you will just have to clean around the pin that is being shorted (It will be copper that you smooshed(technically speaking







) onto the back side of a pin. so you can just clear the connection with a pin or exacto blade. For a open you will have to tin the area to repair the connection. That will take a steady hand and possibly a few tries as solder balls up larger than the area you will be working on. that is why you will only be tinning as opposed to soldering. Tinning is just a light coat of solder. You should do it to your iron before using it as a matter of


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


One step at a time. If you find a short we will fix that first and if you find a open we will address that second. For a short you will just have to clean around the pin that is being shorted (It will be copper that you smooshed(technically speaking







) onto the back side of a pin. so you can just clear the connection with a pin or exacto blade. For a open you will have to tin the area to repair the connection. That will take a steady hand and possibly a few tries as solder balls up larger than the area you will be working on. that is why you will only be tinning as opposed to soldering. Tinning is just a light coat of solder. You should do it to your iron before using it as a matter of


That sounds excellent, and I really appreciate you walking me through the process! REP for you.........So it sounds like I will need to have my damaged 170 and my good 180 on the counter side by side and a continuity tester. I'll have to remove the 180 and install my 3700+ while we are working on that project. Sometime in the next couple of days I will be ready to begin.

Right now I am working on trying to partition my sata drive. I just reformatted and reinstalled xp pro, but apparently I missed the part where I was supposed to make the partitions because all I have is C: (250GB)
I want to use 40GB for the OS partition, and the remainder for everything else. I want to get it partitioned before I install anything and I don't really know what the easiest solution is going to be. Someone tell me what I should do please. I tried d/l acronis disk doctor free trial and it won't let me create a 200GB partition. I don't want to keep trying stuff that isn't going to work. Thanks again guys!

EDIT: nevermind, I am going to just wipe it out and reinstall it correctly, I just don't see where I create more than 1 partition. SETUP offers me 232GB space and an 8GB unpartitioned space and that's all? What am I missing?


----------



## redhat_ownage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


One of the ddr500 ballistix is bad and I'm trying to get the info from the guy to rma it. Seems it can't be rma'd without a matching email and order number/batch number.










ive had both the 2x512 and 2x1gb sets of balistix they both fail badly.
they will overclock great when there new but within 2 months then start so degrade badly.
both of my sets died in a year.

they are not worth the investment, better off with some good uccc (hard to find i know) or infinon ce5.
the G.SKILL zx kit just came back into stock at newegg, i already ordered a set.


----------



## Blitz6804

If you are going to completely wipe and reinstall, use the Windows XP CD to completely delete all partitions. Then create a partition that is 40 GB and install XP on that partition. Once you get XP set up, use XP to partition the remainder. (Do not partition both with the CD, when I last did that, I got some strange errors.)

If you do not want to completely wipe and reinstall, get ahold of Gparted. It is a live CD of a limited-function Linux. Use that to resize your current OS partition to 40 GB and reboot to Windows. It will need to do a Disc Check; it is *absolutely critical* that you do not abort this check. Then format the other partition with XP as before.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


If you are going to completely wipe and reinstall, use the Windows XP CD to completely delete all partitions. Then create a partition that is 40 GB and install XP on that partition. Once you get XP set up, use XP to partition the remainder. (Do not partition both with the CD, when I last did that, I got some strange errors.)

If you do not want to completely wipe and reinstall, get ahold of Gparted. It is a live CD of a limited-function Linux. Use that to resize your current OS partition to 40 GB and reboot to Windows. It will need to do a Disc Check; it is *absolutely critical* that you do not abort this check. Then format the other partition with XP as before.


Thanks Blitz! I just don't see how to choose the size of the partition to install OS on anywhere in setup. Right now I am trying to use disk management to create an extended partition and a logical drive within it, but I'm not having any luck. I even tried doing it through command prompt and I haven't got it figured out yet. I'm getting frustrated. I'm going to try Gparted.


----------



## Blitz6804

If I remember right, when you select an unpartitioned space and tell it to create a new partition, it asks you what size you want it to be in bytes. However, I am not positive of this, it has been a while since I ran XP.


----------



## N2Gaming

ny driver

You can also use Partedmagic to add/delete resize and move partitions while you have any existing OS. Be very carefull using Gparted and Partedmagic as you can make one mistake and you would absolutely have to re-install an OS.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
If I remember right, when you select an unpartitioned space and tell it to create a new partition, it asks you what size you want it to be in bytes. However, I am not positive of this, it has been a while since I ran XP.

when I right click the unpartitioned space I do not get the option to create a new partition. It's not even a "greyed out" option, it's just not there. I am the computer administrator. I d/l gparted, buut what do I do with it...do I have to make a cd or something?

EDIT: I'd be happy to just reinstall the OS if I could see how to choose the size of the partition to install the OS on to. I tried doing it, but it only gave me 2 options of where to install the OS....(232GB space or 8GB unpartitioned space)


----------



## Blitz6804

You have to delete the 232 GB partition first. Then you will have 240 GB unpartitioned space. Then tell it to make a partition that is 40 GB.

As to Gparted, that has to be burnt to a disc yes. The easiest way to do this is with ISORecorder in my experience.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Hueristic or some one else mentioned a while ago that you may be able to special order it at Newegg.

At the home site, one of our members did some digging and found out it was said this board will only be available for sale in UK/Europe, not in the U.S. I'm not sure if the egg can/will get one but woudn't hurt to ask just in case.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
You have to delete the 232 GB partition first. Then you will have 240 GB unpartitioned space. Then tell it to make a partition that is 40 GB.

As to Gparted, that has to be burnt to a disc yes. The easiest way to do this is with ISORecorder in my experience.

I finally figured it out...I've just never done it before. The option to choose the size of the partition is there if you read carefully after you delete the existing partition. Thanks for the suggestions guys!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
At the home site, one of our members did some digging and found out it was said this board will only be available for sale in UK/Europe, not in the U.S. I'm not sure if the egg can/will get one but woudn't hurt to ask just in case.

Maybe some one on Ebay will sell a few new boards from the UK.


----------



## ny_driver

Look at these temps.....wow







this is on my fresh install fully updated and with dual core optimizer. It has been unseasonably warm today. It's probably 21c in here, but that's no reason for it to be overheating......especially at stock voltage and timings. I have to get a significantly better cooler I think.








I've been unable to upload the last few files I've tried, so here is another one at imageshack.........
http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/458...louslyhigh.png


----------



## redhat_ownage

have you tried lowering the voltage?

price drop!!!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=263602_263622

also heres some tccd or bh-5 im not sure but its cheap, with B6U808 PCB.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT


----------



## Menace

Hey, I just came to update you guys. I'm running at 2.44Ghz now instead of 2.50Ghz (usb port issues). Also, I replaced my 8600gt with a x1900xtx, and switched to a different case







. I noticed a temperature difference with the new case. On my old case I would get 33*C idle and 46*C on load (HD streaming). On my new case I get 38*C idle but 45*C load (HD streaming). This seemed odd







, I'm gonna run Intel Burn Test to see if there are temp. differences there too (old case 100% load = 58*C). I'm thinking of lapping the heatsink and cpu as I noticed a fair amount of scratches on the copper base when re-applying the thermal compound.

Edit: Idle temps are prob due to my x1900xtx. I had to add a fan that was blowing heat away from it otherwise it would artifact in-games.
Also, I previously I had a masscool 92mm 2500rpm fan along with my cpu fan (2637rpm), now I have 2 80mm 2500rpm fans to go with my cpu fan (2637rpm).


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage* 
have you tried lowering the voltage?

yup, this Neo2 Platinum overvolts just like my last one. I lowered it to 1.325 and it measures 1.36 on the meter, and it still got up to almost 65c in the fpu test. Although I don't really think that explains the temperatures when stock is supposed to be 1.35.

EDIT: I just tested again and only got 47/63 max temps, but it's cooler in here today. When I run s&m short duration/100% the one core gets almost to it's max temp for a second during L1 test, then the 2 run pretty evenly until it gets to FPU test, then the one runs a lot hotter than the other.
The one core stays nice and cool,........how annoying!


----------



## Blitz6804

For maximum temperatures, you need only run the FPU test. As to the core delta: is the IHS on the chip level? If it is unlevel (or the CCF is unlevel) you would expect to see a large delta between the cores. Try another heatsink for experimentation's sake. If the delta goes away, the CCF is unlevel. If the delta remains, then the IHS could be next in line for a lap.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


For maximum temperatures, you need only run the FPU test. As to the core delta: is the IHS on the chip level? If it is unlevel (or the CCF is unlevel) you would expect to see a large delta between the cores. Try another heatsink for experimentation's sake. If the delta goes away, the CCF is unlevel. If the delta remains, then the IHS could be next in line for a lap.


gonna have to try something different........I'm not sure I like the exposed heatpipes in the heatsink base, because of the grooves on either side of the pipes. http://www.overclock.net/album.php?u=28875


----------



## Blitz6804

Benchmark Reviews seems to advocate filling in the gaps in the base of the cooler before applying TIM. Have you tried this method to be sure all four heat pipes are working and not just the inner two due to leakage?


----------



## pioneerisloud

I know this is a little off topic. But BlackOmega and I were talking about HTPC builds on steam here a few minutes ago. And I figured I'd share the list with you guys. Best bang per buck HTPC build I could come up with (obviously some parts could be changed...but for the most part, its solid).


----------



## BlackOmega

That's a nice build Pio, thanks for that.







I'll definitely look you up when I need to build one. Gotta save mah pennies for that X58 SLI.









Man I've really been wanting to get my hands on one of those single cores. $32 is insane!


----------



## Kryton

I'm looking to get one of those CPU's and maybe an Athlon chip too. 
Aren't those actually DC chips (Sargas core) you could possibly unlock? I know there's a few out there but can't recall at the moment if that one is a true DC chip.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


I'm looking to get one of those CPU's and maybe an Athlon chip too. 
Aren't those actually DC chips (Sargas core) you could possibly unlock? I know there's a few out there but can't recall at the moment if that one is a true DC chip.


Yes, its supposed to be a locked Athlon II dual core.


----------



## eternalenergy311

So I never use this bench mark but, what would be considered a decent cpu mark for my chip? I just ran it and got 1967. It seemed to lag but, my GPU is junk so...


----------



## eternalenergy311

So I finally ordered some decent memory(hopefully), and it should be here Friday. I went with the ddr500 mushkin, 2 gigs for now. Any tips before I start whats hopefully a sucessful additional OC on this rig would be great. Especially maybe some secrets from Pio or Kryton, seeing how those guys seem to post some pretty incredible numbers.







One thing that has always concerned me with my rig is this; No matter what I do I cannot seem to get an OC higher than around 2.4ghz when I use a multi less than 10x. I have no idea why, I guess I figured it was the cheap kingston memory but, I have even tried with my divider at 200mhz so that should not have been an issue. Any thoughts? I ask only because it seems that I have read a lot of posts realting to the theory of lower multi= better OC. And, I have seen many validations that suggest the same. I know my stepping is fair, the memory should not be a concern in the very near future, and my cooling is adequate(for running air). Anyways, I am sure to post my results by Friday night, looking forward to the commentary.


----------



## Blitz6804

For JUST the CPU score, my 4400+ Toledo (similar chip to yours, I just have one higher multiplier and twice the cache) at 2.8 GHz via 11 x 254.7 yields 1977 for the CPU score. With a 3850 AGP, it got 9005 overall. As to memory, if you only have 2 GB, DDR500 makes sense. If you go to 4 GB, you will likely keep DDR400 since you need to keep a lower divider as it is.


----------



## playah

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
That's a nice build Pio, thanks for that.







I'll definitely look you up when I need to build one. Gotta save mah pennies for that X58 SLI.









Man I've really been wanting to get my hands on one of those single cores. $32 is insane!


What cpu are we talking about here

I keep getting a cpu-z validation error code 6, any ideas


----------



## Blitz6804

The Sempron Sargas is $32. If I remember right, it is 2.7 GHz stock, and supposedly, a lot of them can be unlocked into dual cores.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


So I finally ordered some decent memory(hopefully), and it should be here Friday. I went with the ddr500 mushkin, 2 gigs for now. Any tips before I start whats hopefully a sucessful additional OC on this rig would be great. Especially maybe some secrets from Pio or Kryton, seeing how those guys seem to post some pretty incredible numbers.







One thing that has always concerned me with my rig is this; No matter what I do I cannot seem to get an OC higher than around 2.4ghz when I use a multi less than 10x. I have no idea why, I guess I figured it was the cheap kingston memory but, I have even tried with my divider at 200mhz so that should not have been an issue. Any thoughts? I ask only because it seems that I have read a lot of posts realting to the theory of lower multi= better OC. And, I have seen many validations that suggest the same. I know my stepping is fair, the memory should not be a concern in the very near future, and my cooling is adequate(for running air). Anyways, I am sure to post my results by Friday night, looking forward to the commentary.










If talking about your divider being at a true 200MHz, that puts your RAM at a 1:1 ratio with the CPU. Whatever your bus speed is would also be your RAM speed too. Any time you see the word "Value" related to RAM, it's basic RAM and in most cases isn't good at all for OC'ing. 
Those new sticks you ordered will help things along but for better speeds, I'd try a 133MHz divider and see how far you can take it along with some looser timings such as CAS 2.5 instead of CAS 2 for example. Naturally with a lower CPU multiplier you won't get as high of a clockspeed with the same bus speed settings. 
It's a matter of give and take related to settings.


----------



## playah

I keep getting a cpu-z validation error code 6, any ideas

Been running dual prime for about 8hrs now fine, nice temps both cores around 50c

Ran OCCT 2.0 no probs, Memtest clean


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I know this is a little off topic. But BlackOmega and I were talking about HTPC builds on steam here a few minutes ago. And I figured I'd share the list with you guys. Best bang per buck HTPC build I could come up with (obviously some parts could be changed...but for the most part, its solid).


I built an HTPC rig this summer based off of the full-ATX version of that mobo. Very smooth build. I went with no tuner, an Athlon X2 II, and a cheap card reader that I couldn't get to read my microSD card.

It looks solid to me!


----------



## DeadSkull

Trying to get my Dfi Lanparty NF4 Dr Sli UT to work. I've tried the 24 hr CMOS jump + bios battery removal and still I cant even get windows install to work. All the files get copied and I restart the computer but it starts booting of the hard drive and comes up with "error loading operating system."

I read this thread over here about the same issue http://www.hardforum.com/showthread....rty+NF4+Expert

I havent flashed the bios yet. Another big issue is that the board for some reason cannot reset itself. For example after settings all the bios settings and selecting SAVE and EXIT the board just doesnt restart. I have to hit the reset switch on the mobo to get it to restart.

IDeas?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Well, I got the new expert up and running. I can't get a stable boot useing the yellow slots. Any recommendations?

I'm running a burn-in right now on a mild 400X5 stock voltage folding for awhile. Maybe till after the foldathon.


 Maybe a different set of ram or bios upgrade/downgrade will provide the Yellow slot support.

How's the 400x5 working out for you?


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


If talking about your divider being at a true 200MHz, that puts your RAM at a 1:1 ratio with the CPU. Whatever your bus speed is would also be your RAM speed too. Any time you see the word "Value" related to RAM, it's basic RAM and in most cases isn't good at all for OC'ing. 
Those new sticks you ordered will help things along but for better speeds, I'd try a 133MHz divider and see how far you can take it along with some looser timings such as CAS 2.5 instead of CAS 2 for example. Naturally with a lower CPU multiplier you won't get as high of a clockspeed with the same bus speed settings. 
It's a matter of give and take related to settings.


Sorry Kryton, I wrote that wrong. I meant to say a DDR 200 divider in Bios, not 200mhz. Currently, I am at 133(ddr 266) for my divider. This works fine for around that 2.8ghz OC range(cpuid says 185 I think, and I have my timings cranked down to 2.5-3-3-5-2T, the stock was 3-3-3-8), but I feel I am maxing ot the memory, even with only 2 gigs running now. BTW, I have been running 2 gigs instead of four now for like 3 weeks on win7 64, and have not noticed any kind of performance loss. Maybe if I play something like Crysis but, other than that I am not sure the I need much more. Thats why I only orderd 2 gigs of the Mushkin mem to start with. I will try some higher timings with the mushkin sticks at first just to see how high I can get the OC on the cpu. Thanks for your response, I wil post new results hopefully sooner than later.


----------



## redhat_ownage

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DeadSkull* 
Trying to get my Dfi Lanparty NF4 Dr Sli UT to work. I've tried the 24 hr CMOS jump + bios battery removal and still I cant even get windows install to work. All the files get copied and I restart the computer but it starts booting of the hard drive and comes up with "error loading operating system."

I read this thread over here about the same issue http://www.hardforum.com/showthread....rty+NF4+Expert

I havent flashed the bios yet. Another big issue is that the board for some reason cannot reset itself. For example after settings all the bios settings and selecting SAVE and EXIT the board just doesnt restart. I have to hit the reset switch on the mobo to get it to restart.

IDeas?

sounds like it has an old bios in it and the rebot thing happens ALOT, like just about every board unless the gods shine down on you, perhaps your install media is currupt?


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hueristic* 
One step at a time. If you find a short we will fix that first and if you find a open we will address that second. For a short you will just have to clean around the pin that is being shorted (It will be copper that you smooshed(technically speaking







) onto the back side of a pin. so you can just clear the connection with a pin or exacto blade. For a open you will have to tin the area to repair the connection. That will take a steady hand and possibly a few tries as solder balls up larger than the area you will be working on. that is why you will only be tinning as opposed to soldering. Tinning is just a light coat of solder. You should do it to your iron before using it as a matter of

Your instructions are very clear and I guess I am as ready as I'm going to be......except I didn't pull the 180 yet, but I'm ready.
I did a little testing on the 170, and I began to wonder a couple of things







....do I need to test each pin 938 times and document the results? And do I need to do all that testing on the good chip first? And the other thing is how am I supposed to see to fix a short or an open? Hope to hear back from you soon Hueristic. Thanks.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *playah*


What cpu are we talking about here


An HTPC.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *playah*


I keep getting a cpu-z validation error code 6, any ideas


 Do you have the latest version of CPUz?

Hey guys look here, NEW in box Opty 165 CCBBE buy it now of $90.


----------



## playah

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
An HTPC.

Do you have the latest version of CPUz?

Hey guys look here, NEW in box Opty 165 CCBBE buy it now of $90.


Yep using latest version and tried earlier as well.

That's not a bad deal, pretty good stepping


----------



## BlackOmega

Not a bad price at all for a NIB 165, considering I paid over $300 for my 165 back in the day.

But I just re-read your post from earlier, the CPU that we were discussing was that new single core AM3. It's super cheap, $32. It'd make for a cheap tester CPU. I was thinking about getting that as I'm probably going to make my current board a folding board for a while as it can handle 4 GPUs'. Well when my i7 is all put together, anyway.
I'm taking a break from folding to see exactly how much it costs me per month to run a folding rig. From what I can tell each rig uses an additional 200 units (or is that KWH) per month. That way I can translate that in to dollars and then I'll see the difference between running 2 rigs as opposed to 1 with 4 GPUs'. Hopefully all ofmy cards fit as 2 of them have some crazy RAM sinks on the top of the PCB's.


----------



## DeadSkull

Quote:


Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage* 
sounds like it has an old bios in it and the rebot thing happens ALOT, like just about every board unless the gods shine down on you, perhaps your install media is currupt?

Possibly, but I will find that out pretty soon b/c Im going to use the disk to install in another system.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311* 
Sorry Kryton, I wrote that wrong. I meant to say a DDR 200 divider in Bios, not 200mhz. Currently, I am at 133(ddr 266) for my divider. This works fine for around that 2.8ghz OC range(cpuid says 185 I think, and I have my timings cranked down to 2.5-3-3-5-2T, the stock was 3-3-3-8), but I feel I am maxing ot the memory, even with only 2 gigs running now. BTW, I have been running 2 gigs instead of four now for like 3 weeks on win7 64, and have not noticed any kind of performance loss. Maybe if I play something like Crysis but, other than that I am not sure the I need much more. Thats why I only orderd 2 gigs of the Mushkin mem to start with. I will try some higher timings with the mushkin sticks at first just to see how high I can get the OC on the cpu. Thanks for your response, I wil post new results hopefully sooner than later.

I see your stock timings are 3-3-3-8 and you've tightend them up instead of loosening them. Those sticks with the timings they have at stock settings probrably are doing all they can with the settings you are using.
Just to clarify things here and make sure we're on the same page, the higher the numerical value, the looser the timings are while running a lower numerical value is running your timings tighter. With the sticks being what they are, try it at your stock settings to see if you can get more from them.


----------



## Menace

Quick question, what is the thermal limit on the dual core 939 cpus? My idle temps were at 33*C and 46*C load. However, after losing my 92mm case fan temperatures have gone to 41*C idle and 54*C load. I know I'm safe at the moment but I'm finally gonna try and go over 2.5GHz on the processor and I don't want to go past the designated temperature region during stress testing.

Also, I'm gonna try and buy a nice 80mm case fan, my new case doesn't fit 92mm (it blew out air like a beast, rather quiet too). Any suggestions on 80mm fans? I'm not going to overclock until I get more appropriate cooling.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Menace* 
Quick question, what is the thermal limit on the dual core 939 cpu's? My idle temps were at 33*C and 46*C load. However, after losing my 92mm case fan tempuraturess have gone to 41*C idle and 54*C load. I know I'm safe at the moment but I'm finally gonna try and go over 2.5GHz on the processor and I don't want to go past the designated temperature region during stress testing.

Also, I'm gonna try and buy a nice 80mm case fan, my new case doesn't fit 92mm (it blew out air like a beast, rather quiet too). Any suggestions on 80mm fans? I'm not going to overclock until I get more appropriate cooling.

I believe its either 65*C or 72*C, depending on chip and core. I wouldn't worry TOO much about it though







. My Manchester saw 95*C load temps for a 24 hour stability run at one point.


----------



## Blitz6804

The 110 W dual cores (all Opterons, most Athlons) are 65Âº C, the 89 W dual cores (some Athlons) are 71Âº C. Regardless if yours is a 3800+ E4 or a 3800+ E6, yours is good to 71Âº C.


----------



## ny_driver

Good morning everyone......today I have a BIOS/mem clock topic for discussion.
In my BIOS I have a 216 memory divider. When I select 216, the post screen tells me I'm at 433 DDR, however my monitoring programs do not detect that I am starting at 433.
My 216 divider coupled with my 246 FSB should give me 270 MHz on the memory. Clockgen is the only program I have that says my FSB is at 246 and my mem clock is at 270. I tried running memtest86+4 and it detects my memory as 123 MHz 246 DDR.
I'd really like to use the 216 divider, but it seems as though it isn't working quite right.

EDIT: the memory won't boot above 260 anyways even with a 10x, so I guess unless I get a better chip or better RAM I won't need the 216 divider. I wonder which will yield better performance....the 225 x 12 = 2700 w/ RAM @ 225 OR 246 x 11 = 2706 w/ RAM @ 246 OR 260 x 10 = 2600 w/ RAM @ 260. I probably couldn't tell the difference without benchmarking.

reEDIT: what is the best way to benchmark the total system performance?

UPDATE on the original issue: Turns out that the 216 divider boots me to 200MHz, the 233 divider boots me to 219MHz, and the 250 divider boots me to 241MHz....so now I'm going with the 225 x 12, but I'm using the 233 divider so I have my RAM at 245MHz while keeping my FSB down to 225, thus fixing my cold boot problem....in theory at this point.


----------



## Blitz6804

ny_driver: That is because of the integrated northbridge on K8s. RAM dividers are subservient to the overall clock speed. When you have odd dividers, things work out silly. Even dividers work out fine. For fun, try dropping yourself to 10x, and then test the dividers. You should find they line up as they should. You can compute before hand using either Gogar or the spreadsheet I posted in the thread earlier, but now I am having a problem finding the link to it.


----------



## Syrillian

Hi.









Some of you might be interested in This.


----------



## BlackOmega

Thanks Syrillian, I'm sure some of the guys will be interested in some of that stuff.


----------



## godofdeath

what's an operton 165 worth?
someone is selling for 50, good backup choice?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


what's an operton 165 worth?
someone is selling for 50, good backup choice?


Good backup choice? Heck dude, it'd be worth replacing your sig CPU with, and using your sig CPU as backup!


----------



## playah

Well I got a nice little 3GHz oc going on this x2 3800 at 1.4v and can't get the dang cpuz to validate, beautiful load temps too 52C

I was getting error code 6, so uninstalled it and downloaded the latest version, now I'm getting error code -1

Help


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *playah* 
Well I got a nice little 3GHz oc going on this x2 3800 at 1.4v and can't get the dang cpuz to validate, beautiful load temps too 52C

I was getting error code 6, so uninstalled it and downloaded the latest version, now I'm getting error code -1

Help

try reading in this forum.... http://forum.canardpc.com/forumdisplay.php?f=74 you may find the answer there.


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


I see your stock timings are 3-3-3-8 and you've tightend them up instead of loosening them. Those sticks with the timings they have at stock settings probrably are doing all they can with the settings you are using. 
Just to clarify things here and make sure we're on the same page, the higher the numerical value, the looser the timings are while running a lower numerical value is running your timings tighter. With the sticks being what they are, try it at your stock settings to see if you can get more from them.


Kryton ,

Yes I have had the Kingston sticks at loser timings, like 3-4-4-8, and at stock, and still no luck. After I found the limitiation of my overclock to be around 2.85, I backed it down and tightened the timings. Basically, it didn't seem to matter what I did, the highest I ever got this rig to even load into windows was at 2.9ghz and that didn't last long. Either way, it won't matter soon enough. My new sticks will be here tomorrow.







Thanks for all of your advice though. I am sure we can both agree that the new sticks should help me tremendously in my pursuit of 3.0ghz.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


Kryton ,

Yes I have had the Kingston sticks at loser timings, like 3-4-4-8, and at stock, and still no luck. After I found the limitiation of my overclock to be around 2.85, I backed it down and tightened the timings. Basically, it didn't seem to matter what I did, the highest I ever got this rig to even load into windows was at 2.9ghz and that didn't last long. Either way, it won't matter soon enough. My new sticks will be here tomorrow.







Thanks for all of your advice though. I am sure we can both agree that the new sticks should help me tremendously in my pursuit of 3.0ghz.


New sticks won't hurt, that's for sure.

It's possible you've hit the limit of your system but don't stop tweaking. You may get 3.0 from it yet.

I assume temps are good enough when you have it that high. As long as CPU temps are below 50c, you're good and even at 55c, still OK but the cooler the better. 
Another thing is excessive voltage will cause a spike in temps and also give no benefit. With yours, I'd start at 1.40v and tweak from there. Many Toledo chips will hit 3.0 with less than what I've suggested without a problem.

You'd probrably need more with the chip you have (Maybe) but go with what you need to keep temps manageable without cooking the chip for nothing. Simply cranking the volts way up isn't the best way to do it and you know what can happen once temps get too high. As you've probrably seen already, once a chip reaches it's limit, no amount of voltage will help get it higher but I don't think you've hit that just yet. 
Keep temps under control and use what's needed to get it done and no more is one of the keys to making it run - This is also valid for RAM and your chipsets too.


----------



## playah

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


try reading in this forum.... http://forum.canardpc.com/forumdisplay.php?f=74 you may find the answer there.



Been all through there


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Good backup choice? Heck dude, it'd be worth replacing your sig CPU with, and using your sig CPU as backup!


ok i'll go try n be cheap and go get it lol
i'll see how i can crank it up to my oc level


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


New sticks won't hurt, that's for sure.

It's possible you've hit the limit of your system but don't stop tweaking. You may get 3.0 from it yet.

I assume temps are good enough when you have it that high. As long as CPU temps are below 50c, you're good and even at 55c, still OK but the cooler the better. 
Another thing is excessive voltage will cause a spike in temps and also give no benefit. With yours, I'd start at 1.40v and tweak from there. Many Toledo chips will hit 3.0 with less than what I've suggested without a problem.

You'd probrably need more with the chip you have (Maybe) but go with what you need to keep temps manageable without cooking the chip for nothing. Simply cranking the volts way up isn't the best way to do it and you know what can happen once temps get too high. As you've probrably seen already,
once a chip reaches it's limit, no amount of voltage will help get it higher but I don't think you've hit that just yet. 
Keep temps under control and use what's needed to get it done and no more is one of the keys to making it run - This is also valid for RAM and your chipsets too.


Kryton,

Not exactlly the 3.0 ghz mark I wanted, but the overall OC seems better, and the memory speed is fairly impressive in my opinion. 269mhz, 3-3-2-8-1T running on 2.9v. Temps are 34 idle but, 61 loaded. My ambient temps are 75-80 F, I burn wood for heat







This does not help. This is prime stable either way.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=991651

I tried losening timings to 3-4-4-8, mem divider at ddr200, and volts cranked up as high as 1.49....still 2.9 was it for booting, 2.85 would run fine but prime would fail after less than an hour. I seem to be out of options, other than trying a better motherboard. This chip IMO has hit its limits. My goal now I think is to try and see if I can tighten the timings up some, better than the stock they are now at least. Your thoughts?


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


Kryton,

Not exactlly the 3.0 ghz mark I wanted, but the overall OC seems better, and the memory speed is fairly impressive in my opinion. 269mhz, 3-3-2-8-1T running on 2.9v. Temps are 34 idle but, 61 loaded. My ambient temps are 75-80 F, I burn wood for heat







This does not help. This is prime stable either way.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=991651

I tried losening timings to 3-4-4-8, mem divider at ddr200, and volts cranked up as high as 1.49....still 2.9 was it for booting, 2.85 would run fine but prime would fail after less than an hour. I seem to be out of options, other than trying a better motherboard. This chip IMO has hit its limits. My goal now I think is to try and see if I can tighten the timings up some, better than the stock they are now at least. Your thoughts?


Do you have any dividers above 200?....like 216, 233, or 250? I ask because you may be able to get a better OC with a lower FSB and higher multiplier. On my board 216=200, 233=219, and 250=241. Maybe look for a newer modded BIOS. I'm using 225 x 12 with a 233 divider, so my RAM is at 245...you follow me? You could use a 250 divider, run your chip at 230 x 12 and come out with 2760 MHz and RAM at 270 MHz still. Just an idea...........I just learned about using dividers above 200. Maybe try 3-4-4-10 or 11 to go higher on the RAM, but keep it at 1T.

EDIT: my bad....I assumed the 3800 went to 12x because my 3700 went to 11x...sorry.


----------



## redhat_ownage

2.9V is the max i would recommend for bench sessions on the 1gb modules
here is a screen shot of my settings i used for 280mhz or ddr560.
see if that get you any higher









also at ~2.8Ghz that cpu would be just about maxed out without exotic cooling.


----------



## BlackOmega

Very nice OC Redhat.









Do you know of an all encompassing guide to memory timings and formula's to use when setting the more obscure timings (the ones you don't usually fiddle with)?

I'm thinking I could possibly get more out of my DDR3 and DDR modules if I just knew the formula.

Also just trying gauge interest: would anyone be interested in my Corsair XMS 1GB sticks (infineon BH-5 IC's)? I have 4 of them and I'm trying to decide what I should do with some of my 939 parts.


----------



## redhat_ownage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Very nice OC Redhat.









Do you know of an all encompassing guide to memory timings and formula's to use when setting the more obscure timings (the ones you don't usually fiddle with)?

I'm thinking I could possibly get more out of my DDR3 and DDR modules if I just knew the formula.

Also just trying gauge interest: would anyone be interested in my Corsair XMS 1GB sticks (infineon BH-5 IC's)? I have 4 of them and I'm trying to decide what I should do with some of my 939 parts.


i wish i could point you to such a guide but i know of none. everything i know about timings on a64's has been accumulated over the last 10years of playing with computers.
from my experience ddr3 acts like ddr if you can clock ddr well ddr3 will be cake, ddr2 is wierd its stupid i dont like it, that being said i have gotten my gkx sticks to 1333mhz stable.
as for your infinion BE-5 i would love to get my hands on some more but funds are low this time of the year.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Also just trying gauge interest: would anyone be interested in my Corsair XMS 1GB sticks (infineon BH-5 IC's)? I have 4 of them and I'm trying to decide what I should do with some of my 939 parts.


I might be interested. What kind of OC did you get out of them?


----------



## Menace

I just let a fx53 pass me up on ebay, went for $45. I forgot about it and didn't bid


----------



## nategr8ns

^ Darn Menace







. You'll find another one though!

Guys, quick question, after a not-so-quick story







.
So I set up my old motherboard and ram with a new 3000+ I got. I installed Win7 (32) with it all stock, but then I overclocked the CPU to 2.4ghz. All seemed well after a few hours of stressing it, so I went for 300*9, and the PC posted, went to load the OS, and it froze with a giant logo of "7." I went to reboot, and the hard drive was corrupted. Not only that, but my USB keyboard stopped wasn't working, not even the LEDs on it were lit. I actually hurt my USB controller! After I got it into Win. Recovery with another keyboard (although only the F keys work on that due to spreading conductive glue between the plastic sheets







) the USB controller magically started working. It took my a while to actually go into the recovery thing. So after hours on recovery, it says it failed. I let it reboot and it boots into 7 fine







.
My question is: Was the damage all temporary? Did I _actually_ mess up the OS and recovery just lied to me?
I think its the motherboard that's holding me back from 300FSB, though I didn't have time to check anything between that and 267x9, so who knows.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
I might be interested. What kind of OC did you get out of them?

Believe it or not I never actually pushed them. I messed around with them a little once and got them to DDR450 @ 2.6v. I believe they're rated for 2.75v.
I never played with them more than that. They are very good sticks, I had to RMA one set 20 days after I had gotten them. The replacement kit has worked flawlessly for over a year.


----------



## pioneerisloud

You know there's people looking for a good set of DDR B.O.







.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
You know there's people looking for a good set of DDR B.O.







.











All 4 or just 2 sticks?

EDIT: Where the h e double hockey sticks have Joe and thlnk3r been? I swear Joe hasn't been on for .......months it seems. I hope they're alright.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 









All 4 or just 2 sticks?

I'm sure you could find somebody.....







.

Depends on what's wrong with my car though, lol.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I'm sure you could find somebody.....







.

Depends on what's wrong with my car though, lol.


 You'll have to tell me about your car later. I gotta get back to the kids.

I've been thinking of a "package" deal for both of my Ultra-D's, the 4 corsairs, the lapped 3800x2 and the naked 3500+ (I still have the IHS for it). Maybe $350?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


You'll have to tell me about your car later. I gotta get back to the kids.

I've been thinking of a "package" deal for both of my Ultra-D's, the 4 corsairs, the lapped 3800x2 and the naked 3500+ (I still have the IHS for it). Maybe $350?


Makes me wish I had a LOT more money







.

Would you take payment plans?


----------



## nategr8ns

I may be interested in some RAM BO







.

Pio, what are your current car troubles? If you went over to Subaru, you wouldn't have any you know







.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


I may be interested in some RAM BO







.

Pio, what are your current car troubles? If you went over to Subaru, you wouldn't have any you know







.


Link here.

And I'm not going Subura unless its an STI







. Can't afford one of those yet, lol.


----------



## N2Gaming

Off Toppic guys:

I JUST GOT BF1942 THE COMPLETE COLLECTION FOR $10.00 at GameStop along w/a PS3 beta key for PS3 BFBC2. Oh and I also placed an order for BFBC2 / PC ...









I think Hueristic is missing in action as well. I tried to call him today and the number was out of service.







I hope all is well w/him.

As far as joe and thlnk3r goes, I'm sure they are just super bussy lately.


----------



## redhat_ownage

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Off Toppic guys:

I JUST GOT BF1942 THE COMPLETE COLLECTION FOR $10.00 at GameStop along w/a PS3 beta key for PS3 BFBC2. Oh and I also placed an order for BFBC2 / PC ...









i have been looking for disk number 2 to that set for 2 years.
my ex lost it...


----------



## Menace

Black Omega I'm interested in the ram. Currently I have 4 sticks of 512MB Corsair XMS Pro, but I'd rather have a good pair of 1gb sticks. The lapped 3800x2 sounds tempting too







.


----------



## BlackOmega

I've got the BF1942 complete collection as well, right along with several extra keys









Be sure to get the Desert Combat mod for it. There is also a hi-res version that is different than the regular Desert Combat mod, it's called ]Desert Combat Final.

I actually liked the DC mods better than the original game. Although BF 1942 is still a very fun game to play. Last I checked there were still quite a few active players in multiplayer.

Let me know if you guys wanna hop on some BF1942/DC or BF2 or BF vietnam or even BF2142.







I'm a fan of the series.

EDIT:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
I may be interested in some RAM BO







.

Pio has dibs, I just gotta get some free time to test something out for him.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Link here.

posted in your other thread.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage* 
i have been looking for disk number 2 to that set for 2 years.
my ex lost it...

If I can ever figure out how to make a direct image of the discs and circumvent the copy protection I'd gladly burn you a copy.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Menace* 
Black Omega I'm interested in the ram. Currently I have 4 sticks of 512MB Corsair XMS Pro, but I'd rather have a good pair of 1gb sticks. The lapped 3800x2 sounds tempting too







.

Nice. The Corsairs I have are the Platinums. The 3800x2 will go all the way to 2700 with adequate cooling. But since it's lapped, unless your cooler really sucks most decent aftermarket ones are up to the task.

Once I figure out whats going on with all my stuff I'll let you know.


----------



## N2Gaming

FilePlanet says I need to sign up to be a member to download either of those two files.


----------



## BlackOmega

SO sign up, it's free.







I've used fileplanet for ........12 years...







my god has it really been that long.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I've got the BF1942 complete collection as well, right along with several extra keys









Be sure to get the Desert Combat mod for it. There is also a hi-res version that is different than the regular Desert Combat mod, it's called ]Desert Combat Final.

I actually liked the DC mods better than the original game. Although BF 1942 is still a very fun game to play. Last I checked there were still quite a few active players in multiplayer.

Let me know if you guys wanna hop on some BF1942/DC or BF2 or BF vietnam or even BF2142.







I'm a fan of the series.

I picked that up a few years ago for around $20.00 when I got it. Nice game but it's been awhile since I've played it so it's around here somewhere....









Love the COD series and have the "Warchest" collection with COD 1, the exansion pack for COD 1 and COD 2.
I also have several custom multi-player maps stashed back mainly for the version that's a extension of COD 1 along with in-game mods like having AK47's instead of the usual weapons. Used to game with the guys from the Jane's site and had a blast doing it.
Used Ventrilo for voice comms and each "Team" was on seperate channels for obvious reasons.

For WWII flying, I have Jane's WWII Fighters here and although it's OLD, it's still fun and I'm a member of the site dedicated to it. http://ww2fighters.org/
I've even written some mission files for it along the way and custom mission files are easy once you learn how the editor works. PLENTY of custom flight models and game mods for it there.

I've tried the IL2 series and didn't like it so much - Had alot of problems including the inverted flightstick problem I could never figure out with Pacific Fighters. Still have those but don't fly them.

For WWII boat/sub action, I'm waiting for SH5 to be released soon and lately I've been playing SH4 again. Hands down the best sub sim out there and 5 looks to be even better and hope it really is.
I have SH2, 3 and 4 here so I'm familiar with the series and game mods are easily found for 3 and 4.
Enigma "Rising Tide" is another I have and although it's not exactly realistic, it's still fun to play and like the voice command feature it has.

Love my WWII games...


----------



## eternalenergy311

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...7BBTkwCjCECjCE

Are any of you guys familiar with the technology used in this cooler. I was unable to find any decent data or benchmarks?


----------



## redhat_ownage

you wont need to burn it you can just image it and upload it somwhere.
i havent been able to play that game in soo long haha
i really dident want to buy it again.

Edit: i could set my ftp server back up...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311* 
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...7BBTkwCjCECjCE

Are any of you guys familiar with the technology used in this cooler. I was unable to find any decent data or benchmarks?

Not a good idea. In order to get a good TEC, its going to draw roughly twice the amount of power as your CPU. So if you have a 125w CPU, you need at least a 250w TEC in order to do any good at all.

And think about this, how is it possible for an air cooler to remove 3x the amount of heat as your CPU can produce? That would be the wattage of your CPU + the wattage of the TEC (so assuming 125w and 250w TEC, that'd be 375w that the cooler has to remove).

Just get either the H50 or a high end air cooler instead. TEC's are more hassle than their worth, require WAAAY too much power, and only really effective with a REALLY good water system or better.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
I picked that up a few years ago for around $20.00 when I got it. Nice game but it's been awhile since I've played it so it's around here somewhere....









Love the COD series and have the "Warchest" collection with COD 1, the exansion pack for COD 1 and COD 2.
I also have several custom multi-player maps stashed back mainly for the version that's a extension of COD 1 along with in-game mods like having AK47's instead of the usual weapons. Used to game with the guys from the Jane's site and had a blast doing it.
Used Ventrilo for voice comms and each "Team" was on seperate channels for obvious reasons.

For WWII flying, I have Jane's WWII Fighters here and although it's OLD, it's still fun and I'm a member of the site dedicated to it. http://ww2fighters.org/
I've tried the IL2 series and didn't like it so much - Had alot of problems including the inverted flightstick problem I could never figure out with Pacific Fighters. Still have those but don't fly them.

For WWII boat/sub action, I'm waiting for SH5 to be released soon and lately I've been playing SH4 again. Hands down the best sub sim out there and 5 looks to be even better and hope it really is.
I have SH2, 3 and 4 here so I'm familiar with the series and game mods are easily found for 3 and 4.
Enigma "Rising Tide" is another I have and although it's not exactly realistic, it's still fun to play and like the voice command feature it has.

Love my WWII games...


Yeah I have IL sturmovik and Pacific fighters, never really liked true to life sims. I hate the whole G force thing. Not to mention it looks like you're going very slowly when in fact you're haulin ass. A big reason the newer Gran Turismo's lost my interest. They no longer looked real.

I have all of the COD series except the newer ones COD4 and MW2. Although I do have COD:WAW.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311* 
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...7BBTkwCjCECjCE

Are any of you guys familiar with the technology used in this cooler. I was unable to find any decent data or benchmarks?

I remember reading about it a while ago. It's a great idea, it just doesn't cool all that great. If you really want a good cooler get that Corsair H50 water cooling tget up. It's all self contained so you don't have to mess with it. Not to mention it's ~$45 cheaper than that Ultra.

EDIT: And if you don't want water cooling then look in to the Megahalems.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage* 
i have been looking for disk number 2 to that set for 2 years.
my ex lost it...

Do you have Xfire? PM me about details.








Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I've got the BF1942 complete collection as well, right along with several extra keys









Be sure to get the Desert Combat mod for it. There is also a hi-res version that is different than the regular Desert Combat mod, it's called ]Desert Combat Final.

I actually liked the DC mods better than the original game. Although BF 1942 is still a very fun game to play. Last I checked there were still quite a few active players in multiplayer.

Let me know if you guys wanna hop on some BF1942/DC or BF2 or BF vietnam or even BF2142.







I'm a fan of the series.

Is there any updates I need to know about?


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Yeah I have IL sturmovik and Pacific fighters, never really liked true to life sims. I hate the whole G force thing. Not to mention it looks like you're going very slowly when in fact you're haulin ass. A big reason the newer Gran Turismo's lost my interest. They no longer looked real.

I have all of the COD series except the newer ones COD4 and MW2. Although I do have COD:WAW.


I guess it's a matter of how involved you want to be in the setup and actual control or play. I do like realistic sims BUT not to the point that some take it to.

The challenge of doing well is what I like in the realism but not where you must absolutely tweak things all the time.

Luckily WWII Fighters is realistic enough that it's fairly accurate according to it's flight models but it's also easy to get into and fly and that's the plus of it. Not too many things to worry about and yes, it can easily be configured to fly like an arcade sim if you want to. Unlimited rounds, invulnerability, unlimited fuel, flight model settings from "So easy an idiot can do it" to







can be setup if you want.

The SH series is like that too, accurate but can be configured to do what you want it to within it's limits. SH4 is a real bargain right now if you can find it, around $20.00 and yes, like the others before it, has a built-in time compression function (Game speed control) so you don't have to wait long to get down to it. No having to wait forever to find something or for it to happen unless you want it that way. Find it, set it back to 1X time and go for it.

EDIT: OH yeah, gotta love it when THIS happens....


----------



## N2Gaming

Oh and I just placed an order for L4D2. $17.99 @ J&R. I was gonna do it earlier today but I kept the window open for later on tonight. It's a good thing I did because I don't think they are offereing the $17.99 L4D2 any more.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Is there any updates I need to know about?









Those are the most up to date versions of those mods.


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I remember reading about it a while ago. It's a great idea, it just doesn't cool all that great. If you really want a good cooler get that Corsair H50 water cooling tget up. It's all self contained so you don't have to mess with it. Not to mention it's ~$45 cheaper than that Ultra.

EDIT: And if you don't want water cooling then look in to the Megahalems.


I think I do want to stay with Air at the moment. The Megahalems seem awesome but present two issues for me. The first one is that it won't fit it my case. My hieght limit would be around 150mm, and that thing is 158mm. Second, I did not read that it was "desinged" for socket 939. Not that a mod would not be possible. What about something like this? It looks like it would mount to my board without the use of a backplate, it would fit, and the specs seem decent?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835106123


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


I think I do want to stay with Air at the moment. The Megahalems seem awesome but present two issues for me. The first one is that it won't fit it my case. My hieght limit would be around 150mm, and that thing is 158mm. Second, I did not read that it was "desinged" for socket 939. Not that a mod would not be possible. What about something like this? It looks like it would mount to my board without the use of a backplate, it would fit, and the specs seem decent?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835106123


It doesn't matter if a product was "designed" for Socket 939. If it has AMD support (AM3, AM2+, AM2..whatever), it'll work on Socket 939. The clips are all the exact same. All the way down to Socket 754 if I recall correctly. It might only be down to 939.


----------



## nategr8ns

I didn't know that Pio. I thought that it changed because of the four mounting holes on AM2/3 to the two on 939. I guess that only affects bolt-down coolers though.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage*


i have been looking for disk number 2 to that set for 2 years.
my ex lost it...


If you own the key, downloading the disk image is perfectly legal.


----------



## Blitz6804

The Megahalems requires you to buy any AMD brackets; it only comes with Intel brackets. The AMD bracket I bought for mine would only support AM2/2+/3 because it requires four screw holes. If you are fortunate enough to have one of the motherboard that has room for four screw holes (some later 939 boards have voids in the traces since some boards served as the backbone for a few different models), a drill, and nerves of steel you could do it. If not, you will need to wait for someone to make an alternative bracket.

The Noctua NH-C12P or Thermalright SI-128se can both fit in your case requirements, both have optional 939 brackets. The Thermalright will need to be lapped. Comparing the Noctua NH-C12P to a lapped Thermalright SI-128 (non-se) is a difference of about 3Âº C in the Noctua's favor. For the record, the Megahalems with two, 1500 RPM Ultra Kazes gets about 4Âº C cooler than the Noctua. While I really cannot overclock any further, only hitting 50Âº C when running S&M's FPU test, and nothing else, is a great feeling.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311* 
I think I do want to stay with Air at the moment. The Megahalems seem awesome but present two issues for me. The first one is that it won't fit it my case. My hieght limit would be around 150mm, and that thing is 158mm. Second, I did not read that it was "desinged" for socket 939. Not that a mod would not be possible. What about something like this? It looks like it would mount to my board without the use of a backplate, it would fit, and the specs seem decent?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835106123

Eternal, I wouldn't get that Tt spin Q cooler. IT just doesn't cool very well from all that I've read about it. And from my own personal experience, every Thermaltake product I've bought has had a concave base, usually requiring lapping to get it flat. If you want a good cooler for cheap check out this refurbished Thermaltake Big Typhoon $20 shipped. That's the cooler I'm using on my sig rig and it works very well. However, it'll most likely need to be lapped right out of the box. Mine did. But it will however require you to take the board out and attach their brackets, which are pretty nice. If you do get it DO NOT stick the the back bracket to the board, it's a mother f to get off. You should have no issues installing it on your board as it's only 122mm tall.

Or if you'd prefer a newer different style cooler I'd recommend this Xigmatek Dark Knight. It's only 120mm tall so you shouldn't have any issues mounting it either. And with the Xiggy you don't have to change any brackets as it utilizes the stock cooler bracket.

Both coolers work very well. After lapping the Tt Big Typhoon, it cools every bit as well as the Xiggy DK, but an added extra bonus is that the fan blows at the board so it helps keep your VRM's and other various components cool.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
It doesn't matter if a product was "designed" for Socket 939. If it has AMD support (AM3, AM2+, AM2..whatever), it'll work on Socket 939. The clips are all the exact same. All the way down to Socket 754 if I recall correctly. It might only be down to 939.

They should work on 754's also if they use the stock retention bracket.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


^ Darn Menace







. You'll find another one though!

Guys, quick question, after a not-so-quick story







.
So I set up my old motherboard and ram with a new 3000+ I got. I installed Win7 (32) with it all stock, but then I overclocked the CPU to 2.4ghz. All seemed well after a few hours of stressing it, so I went for 300*9, and the PC posted, went to load the OS, and it froze with a giant logo of "7." I went to reboot, and the hard drive was corrupted. Not only that, but my USB keyboard stopped wasn't working, not even the LEDs on it were lit. I actually hurt my USB controller! After I got it into Win. Recovery with another keyboard (although only the F keys work on that due to spreading conductive glue between the plastic sheets







) the USB controller magically started working. It took my a while to actually go into the recovery thing. So after hours on recovery, it says it failed. I let it reboot and it boots into 7 fine







.
My question is: Was the damage all temporary? Did I _actually_ mess up the OS and recovery just lied to me?
I think its the motherboard that's holding me back from 300FSB, though I didn't have time to check anything between that and 267x9, so who knows.


bump


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hey fellas, didn't know anyone noticed I've been AWOL.









Been stupidly busy, and have been hurting as well with a bad problem with my back. I surrendered and finally saw a doctor yesterday. Most days, the pain is so bad I find it too much to even be sitting in my chair at home, and so I lie down.

I don't have time to read/post onto OCN anymore when I'm at work, either, with the situation being what it is. I'm wearing so many hats here that it's crazy. Beats being unemployed, though, especially since I depend on my paycheck to stay alive. Most of my free time, such as it is, is spent looking for alternate/supplementary sources of income. Unfortunately, jobs are hard to find these days.

It's very gratifying to see, though, that our little corner on OCN is still going strong. I always smile at the thought that you guys -- the real reason this Club is what it is, one of OCN's very best -- are able to take the ball and run with it.







You guys ROCK.









As soon as things settle a bit (hard to say when that will be) -- I'll be happy when my back problems subside enough.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


It's very gratifying to see, though, that our little corner on OCN is still going strong. I always smile at the thought that you guys -- the real reason this Club is what it is, one of OCN's very best -- are able to take the ball and run with it.







You guys ROCK.


































Sorry to hear about the the back issues and work. I guess its a good thing that I'm just a student during this time. Working a day a week is enough for gas and car insurance.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Glad to see you pop your head in here Joe. Hope things get better for ya







.


----------



## Kryton

Joe, take care of yourself first.
Pop in whenever you can and don't worry, we'll still be here.
Hope you get to feeling better soon.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
Guys, quick question, after a not-so-quick story







.
So I set up my old motherboard and ram with a new 3000+ I got. I installed Win7 (32) with it all stock, but then I overclocked the CPU to 2.4ghz. All seemed well after a few hours of stressing it, so I went for 300*9, and the PC posted, went to load the OS, and it froze with a giant logo of "7." I went to reboot, and the hard drive was corrupted. Not only that, but my USB keyboard stopped wasn't working, not even the LEDs on it were lit. I actually hurt my USB controller! After I got it into Win. Recovery with another keyboard (although only the F keys work on that due to spreading conductive glue between the plastic sheets







) the USB controller magically started working. It took my a while to actually go into the recovery thing. So after hours on recovery, it says it failed. I let it reboot and it boots into 7 fine







.
My question is: Was the damage all temporary? Did I _actually_ mess up the OS and recovery just lied to me?
I think its the motherboard that's holding me back from 300FSB, though I didn't have time to check anything between that and 267x9, so who knows.

What I would've done is pop the battery and reset the BIOS. A lot of the time this will take care of bad overclocks on finicky boards. After that I would've just left it at stock and tried to boot it.

I have never heard of permanent damage to a board from taking the reference clock or FSB too high. I have heard it losing the ability to utilize things such as the USB or firewire ports. Lowering the reference clock, and sometimes adding voltage, remedies the situation.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Hey fellas, didn't know anyone noticed I've been AWOL.









Been stupidly busy, and have been hurting as well with a bad problem with my back. I surrendered and finally saw a doctor yesterday. Most days, the pain is so bad I find it too much to even be sitting in my chair at home, and so I lie down.

I don't have time to read/post onto OCN anymore when I'm at work, either, with the situation being what it is. I'm wearing so many hats here that it's crazy. Beats being unemployed, though, especially since I depend on my paycheck to stay alive. Most of my free time, such as it is, is spent looking for alternate/supplementary sources of income. Unfortunately, jobs are hard to find these days.

It's very gratifying to see, though, that our little corner on OCN is still going strong. I always smile at the thought that you guys -- the real reason this Club is what it is, one of OCN's very best -- are able to take the ball and run with it.







You guys ROCK.









As soon as things settle a bit (hard to say when that will be) -- I'll be happy when my back problems subside enough.

Of course we noticed your absence! Right along with thlnk3r and blitz hasn't been posting nearly as often either.

Sorry to hear about your back, hopefully just physical therapy will be able to take care of it.
Depending on where your back hurts, putting a rolled up blanket or something that you can get your knees almost to 90* helps the lower back tremendously. I strained the hell out of my back years ago and this was probably the most effective treatment. Doing this puts your back in to proper natural alignment and will relieve mid to upper back pain as well.
I hope you get better soon.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
What I would've done is pop the battery and reset the BIOS. A lot of the time this will take care of bad overclocks on finicky boards. After that I would've just left it at stock and tried to boot it.

I have never heard of permanent damage to a board from taking the reference clock or FSB too high. I have heard it losing the ability to utilize things such as the USB or firewire ports. Lowering the reference clock, and sometimes adding voltage, remedies the situation.

Well I did clear the BIOS first thing after I shut it off. Good to know I can't screw anything too badly







.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well guys, I'm not going to be running the sig rig much longer. If you couldn't tell by the new name...my motherboard is about shot.

It started off yesterday morning with my Opteron. I was attempting some more suicide runs, trying to get a higher HTT, so I could stabilize higher. Well, after a few runs at 370MHz HTT, the board wouldn't POST. Once it did, it wouldn't save settings to CMOS anymore







. It'll save the basics, and my HTT clock. But anything other than that....I have no choice but auto settings. I can CHANGE them in BIOS....but it won't save. I hit save and exit, and it says it does, but the settings just don't stick.

My Jetway board started doing this a while back as well after some suicide runs. So I think I screwed something up.

Anyway, after that happened, a little while later...I heard a zap sound. And my rig shut off. I looked down, there was smoke around my CPU socket!!! It smoked on me three or four times yesterday







. After this first time, my voltages started fluctuating REALLY badly. My CPU voltage ranges anywhere from 1.2-1.7v. Doesn't matter what chip. All other voltages are perfectly fine, and don't move around much at all (just like they've always been). So its a motherboard problem for sure.

So this morning, I pulled the Opteron to prevent damage. Threw in my Athlon64 3000+. I also pulled 2 sticks of RAM so I could do some overclocking. Here's what I came up with







.


----------



## N2Gaming

That sux Pio...

Joe get better soon. So what about thlnk3r. Where has he been??? Is he a new daddy or what???


----------



## redhat_ownage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Well guys, I'm not going to be running the sig rig much longer. If you couldn't tell by the new name...my motherboard is about shot.

It started off yesterday morning with my Opteron. I was attempting some more suicide runs, trying to get a higher HTT, so I could stabilize higher. Well, after a few runs at 370MHz HTT, the board wouldn't POST. Once it did, it wouldn't save settings to CMOS anymore







. It'll save the basics, and my HTT clock. But anything other than that....I have no choice but auto settings. I can CHANGE them in BIOS....but it won't save. I hit save and exit, and it says it does, but the settings just don't stick.

My Jetway board started doing this a while back as well after some suicide runs. So I think I screwed something up.

Anyway, after that happened, a little while later...I heard a zap sound. And my rig shut off. I looked down, there was smoke around my CPU socket!!! It smoked on me three or four times yesterday







. After this first time, my voltages started fluctuating REALLY badly. My CPU voltage ranges anywhere from 1.2-1.7v. Doesn't matter what chip. All other voltages are perfectly fine, and don't move around much at all (just like they've always been). So its a motherboard problem for sure.


sounds like the mosfets are getting old and will need replacing, if that dont work then the pwm voltage control chip has degraded badly and that cannot be replaced.
most likly one of the mosfets failed, and your cpu is only being powered by the remaning 2 phases and that is whats causing the flucuations.
theres a chance it could be fixed.
as for the bios not saving settings what brand of chip is it?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage*


sounds like the mosfets are getting old and will need replacing, if that dont work then the pwm voltage control chip has degraded badly and that cannot be replaced.
most likly one of the mosfets failed, and your cpu is only being powered by the remaning 2 phases and that is whats causing the flucuations.
theres a chance it could be fixed.
as for the bios not saving settings what brand of chip is it?


I have no clue what brand chip it is. Whatever came on the board.


----------



## redhat_ownage

if you can try to flash a different bios chip with the bios for the a8n32-sli im sure it would fix the bios setting issues.
im almost sure that you have a winbond made plcc chip


----------



## billbartuska

RMA'd some Corsair memory and got this back.

200mhz, 1.5-2-2-2-6, 1T @ 2.75v
Interesting.


----------



## redhat_ownage

that's infinion chips
i have the same stuff in my gskill amazing ram you should try for 300mhz i was close but gave up and havent tried again


----------



## N2Gaming

It's official, the Saint's can no longer be considered the Aint's.


----------



## billbartuska

Quote:



Originally Posted by *billbartuska*


RMA'd some Corsair memory and got this back.

200mhz, 1.5-2-2-2-6, 1T @ 2.75v
Interesting.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage*


that's infinion chips 
i have the same stuff in my gskill amazing ram you should try for 300mhz i was close but gave up and havent tried again


 Why do you say Infinion? I couldn't find them in Corsair's DDR thread.
The sticks that went bad were infinions and they wouldn't go over 220.
I have some Team Extreem sticks (Samsung TCCD, Brainpower B6U808 PCB) that will do DDR665, so I know from wence I speak.


----------



## redhat_ownage

well by process of elimination, there not uccc because uccc will not do 1.5CL
and will only do 500mhz at cl3
if you can try to do 500mhz at 2.5-3-2-5 with 2.6V you will know for sure they are infinion


----------



## ny_driver

yesterday my game(GTR2 f-1 mod) froze up twice.....the first time was when I was trying to exit the replay screen from a weird video angle, and the 2nd time was before the countdown at start of a race after I restarted the race a few times. Each time I was able to manually shut it off with the button and restart it without clearing the CMOS.

ok now a little background (in case you don't remember every detail of every post I've made)......my core contact freezer does not work that great with this Opty. I have it set @ +300 MHz and 1.41v. If I try testing the cpu at that setting one core gets way too hot for my liking, so I don't bother completing the testing. I have allowed it to complete cache 1 and 2 tests, but during fpu test it was hitting 70c so I stopped it......it seems stable by all accounts except perhaps for the 2 incidents yesterday. The temperature never exceeded 53c on the hotter core yesterday during my racing.

Is it possible that although the temps were quite acceptable, my cpu isn't stable at 2.7 GHz under certain circumstances? It seems like I usually have to clear the CMOS when I OC too far, unless it's just a matter of needing a touch more voltage to get into windows. Does it sound like I need to lower my cpu a bit? More voltage really is not an option. I don't want to lower anything obviously. If I knock it back to 2.6 GHz that would put my RAM at a measly 235 MHz. Anyways I just wanted some input on the whole situation, because I am actually fairly green at this overclocking thing. Thanks for reading me post............









EDIT: I've been thinking about getting one of these.... http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...sair%20cooling but I'm not sure if it will work with 939 although someone recently said that as long as it says it works with AM2/AM3 it will. Do you guys know of any similar, but better coolers out there?

reEDIT: my monitor only supports the following resolutions.....1024 x 768 • 1280 x 1024 • 1600 x 1200 • 640 x 480 • 720 x 400 • 800 x 600.........., but in GTR2 and in display properties I am using 1200x900, could that have anything to do with it? I do have the refresh rates synchronized at 85 Hz.


----------



## N2Gaming

ny_driver,

The H50 is a good cooler from all the reviews I have seen. However you may need to add additional cooling around your CPU socket for your VRM's and what not. Also you may want to position the Radiator for the H50 in a place where it is very easy to clean and has a fresh supply of cool air to optimize it's cooling effectiveness.

Regarding your overclock stable at 2.7GHz. Hmm well if you can't do it then you can't do it. There is only so many equations to factor in. More voltage is not an option for you as you have stated so that can be removed from the equation. Now you can try to use different ram timings. How many BSOD's have you had w/that overclock and when was the last time you did a reformat and OS install? I'm not saying it will fix the problem but if your OS is a little fubar'd then it's possible for the OS to cause instability while testing as well although it's not as often for that to be the case.

Regarding your variations of temps between the two cores, well have you lapped the CPU yet?


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


ny_driver,

The H50 is a good cooler from all the reviews I have seen. However you may need to add additional cooling around your CPU socket for your VRM's and what not. Also you may want to position the Radiator for the H50 in a place where it is very easy to clean and has a fresh supply of cool air to optimize it's cooling effectiveness.

Regarding your overclock stable at 2.7GHz. Hmm well if you can't do it then you can't do it. There is only so many equations to factor in. More voltage is not an option for you as you have stated so that can be removed from the equation. Now you can try to use different ram timings. How many BSOD's have you had w/that overclock and when was the last time you did a reformat and OS install? I'm not saying it will fix the problem but if your OS is a little fubar'd then it's possible for the OS to cause instability while testing as well although it's not as often for that to be the case.

Regarding your variations of temps between the two cores, well have you lapped the CPU yet?


I was likely going to mount it on the side cover where I have a 120mm fan now....may even double up the fans on that hole.

I have not had any BSOD's nor have I had to reset cmos. I just had the 2 freeze ups yesterday that I described in my last post. btw I was using ctrl/alt/del instead of alt/tab to go in and out of GTR2(brain fart)....don't know if that could make any difference.

My OS is about 2 weeks old, and I must say better organized than ever before. And very empty.

And yes I did lap the cpu and HS a week or so ago....pictures can be viewed in my album or gallery in my profile. It came out nice and there was a major low spot in the center of the cpu (I spent like 2 hours working on that low spot)......you can see it in the pictures. The temps were reading a lot lower when I first reinstalled it, but that only lasted a day or so and then basically back to where they were before the lap job.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hi all,

I just got off the phone with *Hueristic* and he wanted me to say hi to every one for him and to say that he wishes he could be on more often but his services are down for a while. Other then that he says he is doing good and looks forward to being able to get back online to join the group converstions.


----------



## ny_driver

Look what I got for $50, I hope there is nothing wrong with it. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...view=all&tid=0


----------



## playah

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Look what I got for $50, I hope there is nothing wrong with it. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...view=all&tid=0


 Link no worky


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *playah*


Link no worky


 yeah, they better work or I may have to file a buyer protection claim with ebay because I noticed it says no returns, after I bought them.
What could be wrong with some quality sticks of ram?









EDIT: maybe they're hot or something, who knows.


----------



## mattliston

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
yeah, they better work or I may have to file a buyer protection claim with ebay because I noticed it says no returns, after I bought them.
What could be wrong with some quality sticks of ram?









EDIT: maybe they're hot or something, who knows.

proper link?


----------



## N2Gaming

ny_driver we can not look at your ebay purchase because the link you provided only takes us to the sign in page not the item sold page... :/


----------



## ny_driver

sorry guys http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT how about this link?


----------



## ny_driver

oops, please delete this one Mr. Moderator


----------



## N2Gaming

Those look pretty good. Red Line is suppose to be very good ram. Let's hope there is nothing wrong w/the kit you purchased. Good Price btw.


----------



## playah

Better check 'em w/cpuz when you get them, make sure pn's match

People have been known to reuse heat spreaders, nice ram if genuine


----------



## ny_driver

yep, I'll check em' and test em', and if they're not right I have a plan to get a brand new set, so long as they are genuine.

sometimes at 2am other skeptical buyers will let something like that get away.









I read that they will clock video bench stable at 280 MHz which would be sweet.
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/M...000-2GB/2.html

EDIT: I sent the seller a message inquiring about them, and he says they work and he's been using them awhile, but he's parting out due to no space for gaming rig where he now lives. He doesn't have any other auctions going currently, but that really doesn't mean anything. I'm going to send him the money and hope for the best.

Hopefully I can just pop them in and set em' to 275 [email protected] 3-3-2-8-1T with no issues. Set the divider to 250 and leave the FSB right where it is would be awesome. Hopefully I'll gain a couple FPS over my current system with the [email protected] 245 MHz(3-3-2-5-1T). Is that a realistic expectation?


----------



## redhat_ownage

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
yep, I'll check em' and test em', and if they're not right I have a plan to get a brand new set, so long as they are genuine.

sometimes at 2am other skeptical buyers will let something like that get away.









I read that they will clock video bench stable at 280 MHz which would be sweet.
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/M...000-2GB/2.html

EDIT: I sent the seller a message inquiring about them, and he says they work and he's been using them awhile, but he's parting out due to no space for gaming rig where he now lives. He doesn't have any other auctions going currently, but that really doesn't mean anything. I'm going to send him the money and hope for the best.

Hopefully I can just pop them in and set em' to 275 [email protected] 3-3-2-8-1T with no issues. Set the divider to 250 and leave the FSB right where it is would be awesome. Hopefully I'll gain a couple FPS over my current system with the [email protected] 245 MHz(3-3-2-5-1T). Is that a realistic expectation?

good luck
hope you get some good sticks


----------



## BlackOmega

Hey fellas, just dropping you guys a line to see how everything's going.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hey fellas, just dropping you guys a line to see how everything's going.


Everything's going alright







. You should go check out my car build log BO. I just added some stuff. And I also have a question for you (off topic, so won't ask it here).


----------



## BlackOmega

Link? I think I forgot to sub it.


----------



## Kryton

Doing the same here guys.
Hoping all is well here and that Joe is OK.

Been busy as of late and here's what I've been up to: http://hwbot.org/article/news/bones_...t_world_record

Wasn't easy to do but pulled it off.
Of course I'm not stopping yet and maybe I can hit 500 with it and we'll see. Maybe it's not 939 related but something like this doesn't happen everyday either.
I'm hoping the prize will be something "Nice" since I need a new toy to torture anyway.


----------



## Blitz6804

Oh my goodness; congrats Kryton!


----------



## playah

That's quite an accomplishment, what mb was it on


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *playah*


That's quite an accomplishment, what mb was it on


DFI NF4X Infinity.


----------



## BlackOmega

Very nice Kryton!


----------



## N2Gaming

Thats Great Kryton Good Job " pats on back "























Now if only they could fix the error seen in the quote

Quote:

Classifplatforms.com


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Thats Great Kryton Good Job " pats on back "























Now if only they could fix the error seen in the quote 










Yeah, I noted the error too. 
Will be stepping out to buy stuff for doing even more with it shortly.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Yeah, I noted the error too. 
Will be stepping out to buy stuff for doing even more with it shortly.


You have a world record chip there my friend don't do any thing so extreme as to kill it


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


You have a world record chip there my friend don't do any thing so extreme as to kill it










I'm taking precautions to avoid that. The CPU chip itself according to Ripping.org before the site went down was the #3 3700+ Newark in the world. 
Would be a shame to lose them both.


----------



## redhat_ownage

wow i wonder if mine can hit 500
i bought the wrong cpu, i should have gotten a mobile 4000


----------



## Rains

I would like to join!

Here is a screenshot, same system as I have in my signature. It is a great system


----------



## BlackOmega

Welcome to the club Rains. One of the senior officers will add you to the roster. If you need anything don't hesitate to ask.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rains*


I would like to join!

Here is a screenshot, same system as I have in my signature. It is a great system












Yeah...welcome aboard, bud.


----------



## Blitz6804

I finally updated the off-site roster. (I suck, I know.) Thank Rains, he happened to submit an entry when I was doing nothing in particular, and it reminded me I have been delinquent in my duties.

Additions are as follows:
Added cssorkinman
Updated eternalenergy311's clock
Updated FnkDctr's clock
Added godofdeath
Added h2oxtreme (he has been waiting since 11/30/2009; iFail)
Added hueristic's Venice
Added JeremyWW
Added jim157
Added Menace
Added ny_driver
Added playah
Added Rains
Corrected redhat_ownage's Venice
Added redhat_ownage's San Diego
Added RocGotSol
Added SpykeZ
Added ziju
There, now I am caught up. I still have to fix the broken links / formatting / et cetera still though.


----------



## Rains

Thanks for the warm welcome guys! I am pretty amped that this Club exists, my s939 system has so much nostalgic value to me, I could never get rid of it
















I just wish I still had screenshots from my old s939 system ... I had an a64 3000+, Venice core, paired with a DFI rs482 mobo, @ 2.97Ghz







330Mhz fsb, 1.6v ... that CPU was pure win~!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rains* 
Thanks for the warm welcome guys! I am pretty amped that this Club exists, my s939 system has so much nostalgic value to me, I could never get rid of it
















I just wish I still had screenshots from my old s939 system ... I had an a64 3000+, Venice core, paired with a DFI rs482 mobo, @ 2.97Ghz







330Mhz fsb, 1.6v ... that CPU was pure win~!

This reminds me of my very first really good solid build which happened to be a DFI Lanparty NF4 SLI DR w/a Athlon 64 3500+ 2x1GB OCZ Platinum XP x64 and the rest of the system no need to boast as it's nothing these days but was my pride and joy back then so I really do understand your value in your system









P.S. Welcome to the club...

Ebay Sale DFI SLI D w/a 3500+


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I finally updated the off-site roster. (I suck, I know.) Thank Rains, he happened to submit an entry when I was doing nothing in particular, and it reminded me I have been delinquent in my duties.

Additions are as follows:

Added cssorkinman
Updated eternalenergy311's clock
Updated FnkDctr's clock
Added godofdeath
Added h2oxtreme (he has been waiting since 11/30/2009; iFail)
Added hueristic's Venice
Added JeremyWW
Added jim157
Added Menace
Added ny_driver
Added playah
Added Rains
Corrected redhat_ownage's Venice
Added redhat_ownage's San Diego
Added RocGotSol
Added SpykeZ
Added ziju
There, now I am caught up. I still have to fix the broken links / formatting / et cetera still though.

now you just need to update the on-site roster.









Roster currently says:
ny_driver: Athlon64 3700+ @ 3 GHz and Oteron 170 @ 3 GHz

my Opteron 180 @ 2.7 GHz needs to be added.









Thanks for your efforts Blitz!


----------



## Blitz6804

I cannnot edit the on-site Roster. Only txtmstrjoe (original poster) or thlnk3r (senior moderator) can do that.


----------



## BlackOmega

Any Mass Effect fans out there? What do you guys think of the new avatar? Honest opinions, it won't hurt my feelings.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Any Mass Effect fans out there? What do you guys think of the new avatar? Honest opinions, it won't hurt my feelings.










I think my laptop has terrible viewing angles.

But the avatar is good man


----------



## Blitz6804

ny_driver: I just realized I only had your Opteron 180. The off-site has now been amended to include your Opteron 170 and your 3700+.

BlackOmega: Looks cool, but a little dark.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


ny_driver: I just realized I only had your Opteron 180. The off-site has now been amended to include your Opteron 170 and your 3700+.

BlackOmega: Looks cool, but a little dark.


ok thanks blitz. the system specs are a little different, and about to change again because I just ordered some mushkin enhanced ddr500.....I'll send in another validation after I get the new ram installed, so that when you get a chance you can replace the validation link for my 180.

and B.O......not bad, but I thought the old avatar was very cool.


----------



## Blitz6804

Unless otherwise instructed, I grab the fastest validation per submitted processor. This might be why the Opty 180 I have listed does not match the Opty 180 as written in your sig. (2750 MHz versus 2700 MHz.) I will update when you post the new one though.


----------



## nategr8ns

My new (old) 939 rig seems to be running strong. 3000+, MSI K8N Neo4-f, 2x512mb of Corsair ValueSelect RAM. CPU is at 2.4ghz (IIRC). Good stuff







. I'll get a cpu-z validation sooner or later.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
You have a world record chip there my friend don't do any thing so extreme as to kill it









Me - Extreme?

Well, I'm done shopping I think and will let you guys know what else happens. It could be extreme even for me but we'll see soon enough.


----------



## ny_driver

Hey guys....I am looking to get a better Opteron (or a good Athlon64x2) than the CCBWE 180 I have. I have found that it's slightly unstable @ 2.7GHz and am very disappointed to have to lower my FSB. Do any of you have one that you might be willing to get rid of? I ask here because I figure some of you may have a couple extra chips laying around. I'm new here and I have three 939 chips, it just so happens that I ruined my good 170.

I'll be around, so PM me or reply here, or whatever you want to do. Thanks.









EDIT: look at this one core even gets too hot at only 2500MHz/1.36v. What a piece of crap it is. WOW.







http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/4880/2500mhz136v.png


----------



## Blitz6804

Have you tried a different cooler yet? I have a feeling your Core Contact is damaged / uneven. Even if you have a stock cooler laying around, it would be a good idea to test if the delta is still there. (Do not run S&M on that though.) Also check that your mounting bracket on the motherboard is level; I have sometimes seen them get knocked askew in shipping.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Have you tried a different cooler yet? I have a feeling your Core Contact is damaged / uneven. Even if you have a stock cooler laying around, it would be a good idea to test if the delta is still there. (Do not run S&M on that though.) Also check that your mounting bracket on the motherboard is level; I have sometimes seen them get knocked askew in shipping.


I will try a stock cooler on it in just a little while and update. I was thinking that if there was a problem with the core contact that BOTH cores would get too hot. Core#0 never gets hot. 
I did lap the core contact on glass, so it's flat I'm pretty sure. Going to get the stock cooler now. Be back shortly. Thanks for the suggestion.

EDIT: using stock cooler now and although the idle temps are actually more even the load temps still have huge difference. After 3 seconds of s&m I saw max temps of 53 and 65 respectively. I guess I will have to keep blaming the cpu.

EDIT update: apparently my last thermal paste application method was not that great(2 drops a little off center), because this time I used the standard 1 drop in the center and my idle temps have dropped about 3-4 degrees, but the load temps are the same as before.


----------



## playah

Thanks for putting me on the offsite roster, could you change it to this when you get a chance


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I will try a stock cooler on it in just a little while and update. I was thinking that if there was a problem with the core contact that BOTH cores would get too hot. Core#0 never gets hot. 
I did lap the core contact on glass, so it's flat I'm pretty sure. Going to get the stock cooler now. Be back shortly. Thanks for the suggestion.

EDIT: using stock cooler now and although the idle temps are actually more even the load temps still have huge difference. After 3 seconds of s&m I saw max temps of 53 and 65 respectively. I guess I will have to keep blaming the cpu.

EDIT update: apparently my last thermal paste application method was not that great(2 drops a little off center), because this time I used the standard 1 drop in the center and my idle temps have dropped about 3-4 degrees, but the load temps are the same as before.


man those cores are way off of each other in temps, maybe think about delidding your opteron.

I did that to my 165 a few years ago and my core temps were only 1 degree off of each other.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*


man those cores are way off of each other in temps, maybe think about delidding your opteron.

I did that to my 165 a few years ago and my core temps were only 1 degree off of each other.


LOL....I did that to my CCB1E 170 that did 3 GHz a couple months ago for the same exact reason, and I ended up damaging it so that it only runs with single channel memory configuration.







so I bought a 180 and ended up with a crappy CCBWE that barely does 2.7 GHz. I'm going to try to repair the 170 when my mentor returns from hiatus.

I think the plan is to find a good deal on a better CPU and sell this one. I'd really prefer a 180 or better with a 12x multi or higher because I have a cold boot bug on my mobo, but I could work with 11x or 10x if I could get 3 GHz.


----------



## Rains

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
SNIP! EDIT: look at this one core even gets too hot at only 2500MHz/1.36v. What a piece of crap it is. WOW.







http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/4880/2500mhz136v.png

Feeling BOLD? Pull out a lighter and razor blade, pop that IHS!

That's what I did to my Opty175, when I had similar issues. I still have some variance between my two cores, but it is 1~3.C Idle, and 1~2.C Load. Much better than the 1~9.C Idle and 1~6.C Load I had previously


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rains*


Feeling BOLD? Pull out a lighter and razor blade, pop that IHS!

That's what I did to my Opty175, when I had similar issues. I still have some variance between my two cores, but it is 1~3.C Idle, and 1~2.C Load. Much better than the 1~9.C Idle and 1~6.C Load I had previously










I'm not scared to do it, but I think I may try to sell it. I have only about 1-2c difference @ idle, but like 10-12c difference @ load(stress testing). Regular use load(racing GTR2) I get 41c/49c @ 2.7 GHz and 1.41v. I'm tempted to try delidding again. I'm sure they don't use AS5 inside the cpu, and that whatever thermal compound they do use is all dried to nearly dust by now.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
whatever thermal compound they do use is all dried to nearly dust by now.









It could be but IMO it really depends on how old the CPU is.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


It could be but IMO it really depends on how old the CPU is.


well they quit making the Opty 180 a several years ago right? 
it would be kind of useless anyways, because it takes crazy voltage to even get to windows at above approximately 2700MHz. I just tried racing at 2808MHz and it froze up as soon as I clicked the race button. I had to use the button/reset switch to reboot. It took 1.47v to get to windows and even if I get the cores evened out it will still take the same amount of voltage, and the idle temps were really high at that voltage(high 30s). I might do it anyways just because I know how, and I have AS5 and permatex to reattach the lid. I want to try OCing my single channel 170 and test that anyways. 
The 170 in single channel mode @ 3GHz might be just as fast as this 180 @ 2.7GHz in dual channel. I'm going to test the 170 before I do anything to the 180 because I don't want to make it any harder to sell if the 170 ends up being as fast.









I'll let you know the results of my testing in a couple hours. Popping the 170 in now...that permatex works well.


----------



## Blitz6804

Have you tried testing the IHS with a bubble level? That is, CAREFULLY place the chip down on a flat surface on its pins, and then place a bubble level on top of the IHS. Try it at different angles. Maybe your IHS is not level.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


I think my laptop has terrible viewing angles.

But the avatar is good man










 Thanks.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


BlackOmega: Looks cool, but a little dark.


 Thanks. I was kind of going for the dark look so you could make out the silhouette and just some other slight detail. 
I might mess around with it later see if I can get the detail to show up better.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


and B.O......not bad, but I thought the old avatar was very cool.


 I still got that one too.







I'll probably switch back to it after a while.

And YGPM.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Have you tried testing the IHS with a bubble level? That is, CAREFULLY place the chip down on a flat surface on its pins, and then place a bubble level on top of the IHS. Try it at different angles. Maybe your IHS is not level.


 From what I have seen, all AMD IHS's are concave.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Have you tried testing the IHS with a bubble level? That is, CAREFULLY place the chip down on a flat surface on its pins, and then place a bubble level on top of the IHS. Try it at different angles. Maybe your IHS is not level.


That sounds like splitting hairs blitz, but I went and tried to find a perfectly level surface to test it on anyways. There is no such animal in this old house.








Anyways the mounting bracket on the core contact allows for the cpu to be unlevel by pivoting on the 2 screws that hold it on to the HS base. Another good idea though, thanks again.
I've decided that I'm selling it if I can.
I have the 170 installed now @ 2.7Ghz with my RAM @ 225MHz/2.5-3-2-5-2T and there is not much difference between it and the 180 with dual channel memory @ 1T. I'm now going to crank it up to 3GHz and test my FPS in GTR2 again.

EDIT:is it normal that RAM won't run @ 1T in single channel mode.


----------



## redhat_ownage

i got my north bridge installed today, finally.
but it wont power on, so sad....

i will try to heat it up again to see if any solder joints didn't connect.


----------



## Rains

ny_driver, have you reattached an IHS before?

It took me a few tries before I got it right, be sure to test it before packing it up to sell. It might not post if the IHS isn't on right.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rains*


ny_driver, have you reattached an IHS before?

It took me a few tries before I got it right, be sure to test it before packing it up to sell. It might not post if the IHS isn't on right.


The one I'm selling has not been delidded, just lapped. Thanks though.








but the one I did delid....the temps are dead even @ load and 4-5c apart @ idle now. I am pretty surprised by the results. Hopefully I'll be able to repair that chip so it runs dual channel again.....it's a good chip. Hopefully everything is ok with Hueristic and he'll be back soon.


----------



## Rains

Just watching out for a fellow s939 overclocker









How did you manage to kill dual channel? Did you nick one of those golden ICs that hide right by edge of the IHS?


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rains* 
Just watching out for a fellow s939 overclocker









How did you manage to kill dual channel? Did you nick one of those golden ICs that hide right by edge of the IHS?

I'm not positive, but what you said sounds about right. It's going to take some extensive testing to find out where the short or open is. Here is a picture of the cpu with the lid off in case you are interested in looking. http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/596...dpiopty170.jpg

You could read all about the incident 20some pages back. I didn't know what I was doing when I started trying to remove the IHS.......obviously


----------



## ny_driver

Just a little interesting morning tidbit......my mobo used to have a cold boot bug when I was trying to use anything over like 240 FSB.......I thought. Today it cold boots @ 290 FSB. It must be like a mid range thing. Strange if you ask me and quite a pleasant surprise, too.







3GHz here I come.


----------



## Blitz6804

Some motherboards have HTT "holes." That is, within a certain range (say 240 - 270) they will either not POST, or not run stablely at all.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *playah* 
Thanks for putting me on the offsite roster, could you change it to this when you get a chance

So amended.


----------



## playah

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


So amended.



Thank you sir for you service


----------



## redhat_ownage

i killed the sli-DR... rats.
pulled solder pads off the pcb while trying to remove the NB the second time.
ugh...
o well anyone need any parts off it?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage*


i killed the sli-DR... rats.
pulled solder pads off the pcb while trying to remove the NB the second time.
ugh...
o well anyone need any parts off it?


I might can use a few capacitors for an Expert mobo I have sitting here doing absolutely nothing at all.









Edit I told PIO I would sell him one of my DFI UT SLI DR Experts if I was able to get both of them working.


----------



## nategr8ns

redhat, I may be able to repair an Ultra-D I have sitting here... I haven't tried doing anything drastic to it since I bought it, and I probably will just let it rest in peace







.


----------



## ny_driver

Some of you may remember some discussion about how good the Sunbeamtech Core Contact Freezer is. Well this is how good it's working right now......Ambient temperature of 20-22c, CPU overclocked from 2000-2900MHz w/1.43v and the max temps during racing are 42c/42c and while running s&m 55c/55c.







I have to give it a big thumbs up.


----------



## Blitz6804

So the IHS on your 180 is messed up?


----------



## ny_driver

I guess it could be that, probably the TIM inside. This 170 used to have a big gap in load temperatures until I delidded it and put AS5 in there. Now they run equal @ load.


----------



## Blitz6804

Why did you put the lid back on?


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Why did you put the lid back on?


 I dunno...it seemed like the right thing to do. Would you want to go to work naked?








Seriously though, why do you ask?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I dunno...it seemed like the right thing to do. Would you want to go to work naked?








Seriously though, why do you ask?










 as DR would say Rofl rofl.














if your IHS is off and the chip is working then you may as well take every advantage of it and run the chip naked w/the HS sitting directly on the DIE for maximum cooling effectiveness. Oh and BTW ditch the AS5 when your near naked chips as that shtuffz a big short wating to happen.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


as DR would say Rofl rofl.














if your IHS is off and the chip is working then you may as well take every advantage of it and run the chip naked w/the HS sitting directly on the DIE for maximum cooling effectiveness. Oh and BTW ditch the AS5 when your near naked chips as that shtuffz a big short wating to happen.










How much cooler do you think it might get? Obviously I'd just want a tiny drop right on the core, right?
If I did that then the core would only be touching 2 of the heatpipes, but I guess the heat would still transfer over to the other ones.

I guarantee cat hair would get in there.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


How much cooler do you think it might get? Obviously I'd just want a tiny drop right on the core, right?
If I did that then the core would only be touching 2 of the heatpipes, but I guess the heat would still transfer over to the other ones.

I guarantee cat hair would get in there.










Well you have a point there. I never ever would deal w/open heat pipe coolers no matter how good of a review they got and how cheap they were. Sure they have a place and application but on a naked CPU is not the place and I think you did the right thing by puting the IHS back on if your using a naked heat pipe HS. Just my .02Â¢


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Well you have a point there. I never ever would deal w/open heat pipe coolers no matter how good of a review they got and how cheap they were. Sure they have a place and application but on a naked CPU is not the place and I think you did the right thing by puting the IHS back on if your using a naked heat pipe HS. Just my .02Â¢










It's working great anyways. I couldn't really ask it to be much cooler on air with a 45% overclock.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


It's working great anyways. I couldn't really ask it to be much cooler on air with a 45% overclock.










Well good for you man I'm glad your able to get 2.9GHz out of it.


----------



## BlackOmega

That's a nice decrease in temps ny_driver.

It just goes to show you that they're assembly line made and a lot of care isn't given when the TIM under the IHS is applied.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Well good for you man I'm glad your able to get 2.9GHz out of it.









Yeah...remember there was like a 10+ degree gap in load temps, that's why I delidded it. Sounds like my 180...but I'm not touching that one.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
That's a nice decrease in temps ny_driver.

It just goes to show you that they're assembly line made and a lot of care isn't given when the TIM under the IHS is applied.

I would think it's all Automated by robots on an assembly line and people don't have any thing to do w/the fitting of the TIM/IHS and the gluing of the Chip board to the IHS.

Yeah I see you got a good drop in temps NY

EDIT: @ BO So sorry you hate BFBC2 eha ha ha. shewwwww OK back on topic

I forgot to mention that climate, temperatures, individual work loads, SHTUFZ happens problems, and Mechanical conditions of the Phnewmatics play a big part in how a products quality ends up after final production and inspections. Yes I am a product of many Factory Assebly and production lines.







Sorry English was not my strong hold in life so I spelled the Air powered robitics wrong but you get what I was aiming for.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I would think it's all Automated by robots on an assembly line and people don't have any thing to do w/the fitting of the TIM/IHS and the gluing of the Chip board to the IHS.









Stupid Robots


----------



## redhat_ownage

i need to sell my modded DFI NF3, ML-34, GSKILL ZX stick and my 9800XT with zalman cooler.
to buy an x2 550 C3 or a 555.
my 790fx m2rsh is begging to be abused...


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage*


i need to sell my modded DFI NF3, ML-34, GSKILL ZX stick and my 9800XT with zalman cooler.
to buy an x2 550 C3 or a 555.
my 790fx m2rsh is begging to be abused...


So were you just blowing smoke when you said does any one need parts from the NF4 DFI mobo???


----------



## redhat_ownage

negative i have 2 sli-DR's that i can pull parts from if needed


----------



## eternalenergy311

regarding my sig rig, has anyone had improved performance/OC ability when increasing the NF4 voltage. Also does anyone know how high you can safely take this voltage?


----------



## Rains

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311* 
regarding my sig rig, has anyone had improved performance/OC ability when increasing the NF4 voltage. Also does anyone know how high you can safely take this voltage?

I believe increasing this voltage allows you to obtain higher HTT/FSB frequencies


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
EDIT: @ BO So sorry you hate BFBC2 eha ha ha. shewwwww OK back on topic

Dude, at first I was like









then, I was like
















at last I was like :swearing:

and rage quit.


----------



## ny_driver

whew...I got my $50 2GB kit of Mushkin Enhanced Redline xp4000 today(48 hours from LA to NY), usps is awesome. CPUZ says that each stick is a 991492...must be 2 of them make a 991493 kit like it says on the stickers. Unfortunately I'll have to put in a different cpu in order to test them, because like my OCZ platinums, they won't post at 1T with this single channel 170. Memory just won't overclock very much on the single channel 170. I think I will test them in the same single channel configuration on the 180 also, just to see what happens. I'll update later.

Anyways I got them quick and they look good, and were super carefully packaged like they were made of glass.









EDIT/update: I got the 180 back in and the memory in dual channel, but look at what cpuz says about it with the divider set to 250. Is this because the mobo was only designed originally to take up to DDR400? I'm using a modded bios with dividers above 200 added.
I haven't done any testing yet. I'll keep updating.
http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/3...ithmushkin.png
The part # is correct, but cpuz is reading the memory wrong I think.


----------



## Blitz6804

Having owned the exact RAM, I can confirm the SPD is reading properly. As to the memory divider, that is a more interesting question. Right now you are running 201x12 no? If so, your RAM should be running at DDR-482.4 as it shows:

12 multi * 201 actual = 2412 clock
(250 divider / 200 stock) * 201 actual = 251.25
2412/250 = 9.6
ceiling(9.6) = 10

2412 MHz / 10 = 241.2 MHz = DDR-482.4

12 x 208 with DDR-500 divider will give you DDR-500, and a 2.5 GHz CPU.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Having owned the exact RAM, I can confirm the SPD is reading properly. As to the memory divider, that is a more interesting question. Right now you are running 201x12 no? If so, your RAM should be running at DDR-482.4 as it shows:

12 multi * 201 actual = 2412 clock
(250 divider / 200 stock) * 201 actual = 251.25
2412/250 = 9.6
ceiling(9.6) = 10

2412 MHz / 10 = 241.2 MHz = DDR-482.4

12 x 208 with DDR-500 divider will give you DDR-500, and a 2.5 GHz CPU.


yes, your calculations are correct. I changed the multi to 10 and set the ram divider to 200, and set fsb to 270 and they passed memtest with 3-3-2-8-1T...so I'd say they are the real thing. I'll try 275 and 280 later, but I read a review and it has a chart of what they were able to get and how stable.....what did you get out of yours blitz?

My dividers are weird. 250 gives me 241, 233 gives me 219, and 216 gives me 200. I think I'm better off just using the standard 200 divider with the multi at 10.

here is that review and performance chart.....http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/M...000-2GB/2.html


----------



## Blitz6804

Your dividers are not weird, they are functioning properly. The advantage of the integrated northbridge of a K8 (running at the exact same speed as the CPU) is the bandwidth. The disadvantage, of course, is the use of algebra required to find out what RAM speed you will actually have. My Deneb (a K10.5) has a distinct northbridge unlike my old Brisbane (K8) or your Denmark (K8). The northbridge runs slower (only 2.3 GHz instead of 3.6 GHz) resulting in much lower bandwidths (8 GBps instead of 10 GBps), but the math is much simpler. For a distinct northbridge:

RAM = (divider / stock HTT) * HTT; in my case, 400 / 200 * 270 = 540 = DDR2-1080

For an integrated northbridge:

CPU Clock = Multiplier * HTT
Actual Divider = (Theoretical Divider / Stock HTT) * HTT
Divisor = ceiling (CPU Clock / Actual Divider)*
RAM Speed = CPU Clock / Divisor

(Your case with DDR-500 is already illustrated above)

DDR-466:

CPU Clock = 12 * 201 = 2412
Actual Divider = (233 / 200) * 201 = 234.165
Divisor = ceiling (2412 / 234.165) = 11
RAM Speed = 2412 / 11 = 219.3 = DDR-438.5

DDR-433:

Actual Divider = (216 / 200) * 201 = 217.08
Divisor = ceiling (2412 / 217.08) = 12
RAM Speed = 2412 / 12 = 201 = DDR-402
(the astute will notice is the is the same as the DDR-400 divider, for THIS multiplier and HTT)

Unless you are running DDR-200 or DDR-400, any RAM speeds / dividers will look "funky" accordingly

*Ceiling function means to always round to the next integer regardless of the decimal; 9.2, 9.6, and 9.9 all would ceiling to 10


----------



## ny_driver

Thanks for that explanation, although to be honest I don't entirely understand some of the terminology and math, but I could read a little and probably figure it out.

Anyways, I tested my RAM at 280 and then 275 (3-3-3-8-1T)and it failed at both settings. How high were you able to run yours at?

And did you say that it would be advantageous bandwidth wise to run 1:1 with no dividers?


----------



## Blitz6804

The best bandwidth USUALLY occurs with 1:1. Running only one kit, I was able to do 11x254.7 200:200 at 3-3-2-8. That is, DDR-509. I had actually ran two kits most of the time, and so, could not get the divider that high. Instead, I ran 11x254.7 200:166 2-3-2-6. That is, DDR-400. The bandwidth due to the tight(ish) timings was around 5400 MBps. (Spec for DDR-400 dual channel is 6400 MBps; single channel is 3200 MBps.)


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
The best bandwidth USUALLY occurs with 1:1. Running only one kit, I was able to do 11x254.7 200:200 at 3-3-2-8. That is, DDR-509. I had actually ran two kits most of the time, and so, could not get the divider that high. Instead, I ran 11x254.7 200:166 2-3-2-6. That is, DDR-400. The bandwidth due to the tight(ish) timings was around 5400 MBps. (Spec for DDR-400 dual channel is 6400 MBps; single channel is 3200 MBps.)

OK good information, thank you. I was wondering though...didn't you ever try to see what the maximum speed you could run it at was, you know by lowering the divider? Right now I'm running at 270x10 200:200 3-3-2-8. I was kind of expecting 280 stable 3-3-3-8 after reading up on the kit. Must be they vary some. But 270 is in my "HTT hole" so I'm going to have to do some math and adjust when I get my new 180(LCB9E) because I want to get 3GHz with the RAM at 270. I'm not sure which divider I will have to use. Actually I'll probably have to use a multi of 11.








EDIT: hopefully 273 FSB is out of the hole, and the memory will pass @ 273.
gonna test that now.


----------



## Blitz6804

No, I never really tried to be honest.


----------



## ny_driver

ok well with a FSB of 300 using the 183 divider, my memory lands right at 270MHz. So I think my best bet is going to be 300x10 with the 183 divider. How much of a performance hit do you take, roughly, using a divider?


----------



## Blitz6804

You would need to obtain a memory benchmark program of some flavor to test that for yourself. I personally used Everest Ultimate (30-day trialware) for all my readings.


----------



## ny_driver

I just tried everest ultimate trial version memory benchmark, and although I can only see the results for "read" and "latency", there is almost no difference between 200:200 and 200:183. The "read" reading is a couple mb/s lower and the "latency" reading is actually slightly higher(less than 1 ns) for the 200:200, but shouldn't it be the other way around?


----------



## Blitz6804

Can you post screenshots of both? When you hit "Save" it gives you the option to save as a PNG.


----------



## ny_driver

yeah, 2 minutes..... you can see the 270x10 is the 200:200, and the 300x9 is the 200:183.

EDIT: I added a screenshot of the memory benchmark results with single channel memory just for comparison.

Look how much better the cpu #s are with 200MHz more. The memory results are terrible.


----------



## ny_driver

I decided to lap the 170 since I had it out. Looks like there was a pretty good low spot in the center, just like the 180 I did. Only took 3 pics this time, but you can see what I mean. It's way better now, I'm going to put it back in and then I'll let you know how much cooler it got.









I only used 600 and 1000 grit. It's shiny but not a mirror finish.


----------



## Blitz6804

I would say that within experimental error, they are the same. If I HAD to pick one, you are right, I would go 300x9. The CPU scores are (in general) slightly higher. For the record, you can see here clearly the efficiency of the 939 IMC. Dual-channel DDR-540 has a hypothetical bandwidth of 8640 MBps. You are getting 8114 MBps, or about 94% of that.

By comparison, dual-channel DDR2-1080 has a theoretical bandwidth of 17,280 MBps, whereas my K10.5 pulls out only 8507 MBps, or about 49% the hypothetical value. My Brisbane (AM2 K8) did better than the Deneb, but not as good as a 939 K8: Dual channel DDR2-813 has a theoretical 13,008 MBps, whereas my Brisbane pulled in 9300 MBps, a scant 71.5%.

And I decided to look up my Toledo. That has a theoretical bandwidth of 6400 MBps, and actually got 88.5% of that at 5663 MBps.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
yeah, 2 minutes..... you can see the 270x10 is the 200:200, and the 300x9 is the 200:183.

You're getting similar readings to what I always got. My theory is that the higher HTT means the motherboard is functioning slightly faster, which means your memory will be slightly faster.

I've tried 200:200, all the way down to 200:133, and even though my divider was lower, my scores were still MUCH higher with the lower divider.


----------



## ny_driver

WOW...I am a lapping machine!







temperatures before lapping @ idle were 32/28c...now they are 28/22c. You believe that?







I'm thoroughly amazed. I'll post up some load temps after a bit.

EDIT: make that 27/20...I had the voltage @ 1.45 instead of 1.43. wow that's just unreal.

reEDIT: previously max temps were 55/55c in s&m and 42/42c racing, now I get 48/52c s&m and 37/40c racing. Perhaps I need to adjust the heatsink slightly. The one core seems too low now. Idling at 18-20c...that's like room temperature.


----------



## redhat_ownage

try less AS5, temps might go down lower.


----------



## Blitz6804

Reiterates my wish that I had tried lapping my Toledo instead of delidding her; she might still be with us today. Remember with AS5 it will take a little bit for the temps to settle where they should be; if you want to save some more degrees, swap to OCZ Freeze Extreme.


----------



## ny_driver

What's strange about it is that before I did anything to it there was a pretty big gap in between the cores temps(which was why I delidded it), but after delidding and reinstalling the load temps were identical. However, now that I lapped it I get the uneven temps again. Maybe I'll try reinstalling it again tomorrow.

EDIT:I have to use up the rest of this AS5, then I'll try something different. Either the OCZ or that Diamond stuff that BO was talking about.

WORD OF CAUTION: never try to adjust the heatsink while the computer is running. I did it and my computer weirded out on me, and I had to reset the cmos 2x to get it back to life.

EDIT: look back a few posts to see a comparison between the memory benchmarks of single vs. dual channel.


----------



## Kryton

I've heard nothing but good things about IC7 and I know a guy who swears by it. Only thing I know that could be bad about it is it's like other non-white TIM's when running things at extreme cold temps but most of us don't get into that kind of OC'ing anyway.

I'm going to try some AS5 Ceramique and have a tube or two headed here. I know it's not the same as regular AS5 or MX-2 but won't hurt to at least try it. I normally run MX-2 since it's cheaper than AS5 and has no cure time involved but it will harden like AS5 will after you've ran it for awhile - Has a texture not unlike plastic when it hardens but temps at least won't get any worse meaning it's still doing it's job.

I've heard before that regular AS5 will eventually quit transferring heat as well as it does when first applied and you'd need to redo the TIM every so often with it. I don't know if that's true or not and I've never ran into that but then again, I'm always swapping things around too.
I'll also get around to trying the OCZ freeze stuff one day. If Blitz says it's good, that works for me.


----------



## playah

Ceramique is all I've used for years, shorter cure time, non capacitive, doesn't lose it's ability to transfer heat over time, within 1-2 degrees of other TIMS and I bought a Mega tube of it long ago so I gotta use it,lol.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage*


try less AS5, temps might go down lower.


I tried less AS5, but it didn't change anything. At idle the core temps run between 7-9 degrees apart and at load the temps temps run 4 degrees apart. I can't complain. That lap job I did certainly worked out...one cores load temp improved by 7c, and the other one improved by a only 3c, but still pretty good.








The next cpu is getting lapped before I install it, but only because I'm getting it right here from someone I trust not to sell me something that doesn't work.


----------



## Blitz6804

Kryton: In my experience, the OCZ Freeze Extreme is about 1-2Âº C cooler at load than a fully-cured application of Arctic Silver 5. It is about the same consistency, maybe a hair thinner, but the piston is MUCH harder to push. This is likely due to the thicker tube creating a larger surface area for the piston to press against. (Bernoulli in action!) While I have both stuck on the inside of my kitchen drawer with fun tack, I have not used the Arctic Silver 5 since getting the OCZ Freeze Extreme. One other thing I have noticed about the OCZ Freeze Extreme: unlike Arctic Silver 5, I have not yet seen it separate. The tube of Arctic Silver 5 has the solute and solvent separating despite storing the tube in an upright position as suggested by Arctic Silver.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


WOW...I am a lapping machine!







temperatures before lapping @ idle were 32/28c...now they are 28/22c. You believe that?







I'm thoroughly amazed. I'll post up some load temps after a bit.

EDIT: make that 27/20...I had the voltage @ 1.45 instead of 1.43. wow that's just unreal.

reEDIT: previously max temps were 55/55c in s&m and 42/42c racing, now I get 48/52c s&m and 37/40c racing. Perhaps I need to adjust the heatsink slightly. The one core seems too low now. Idling at 18-20c...that's like room temperature.


 Very nice results.







Lapping does almost as good a job as delidding until you start getting to the really high voltages like 1.60v+.

That's about how the temps are on my 720. Idles at room temp loads @ 45C @ 1.488v (1.496 BIOS). Just awesome. People that say that lapping is pointless haven't a clue as to what they're talking about.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


What's strange about it is that before I did anything to it there was a pretty big gap in between the cores temps(which was why I delidded it), but after delidding and reinstalling the load temps were identical. However, now that I lapped it I get the uneven temps again. Maybe I'll try reinstalling it again tomorrow.

EDIT:I have to use up the rest of this AS5, then I'll try something different. Either the OCZ or that Diamond stuff that BO was talking about.

WORD OF CAUTION: never try to adjust the heatsink while the computer is running. I did it and my computer weirded out on me, and I had to reset the cmos 2x to get it back to life.

EDIT: look back a few posts to see a comparison between the memory benchmarks of single vs. dual channel.


 ny_driver, try using just the white pigeon poop paste since both of the surfaces are lapped and REALLY smooth. I have found that it actually works the best since it's the thinnest. Just put a tiny little bit on there and go to town. And I swear, there is no cure time for that cheapo stuff, the temps will be great right out of the box. Unlike AS5 that could take up to 200 hours, with heat cycling to cure properly. WAY too long IMO.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


I've heard nothing but good things about IC7 and I know a guy who swears by it. Only thing I know that could be bad about it is it's like other non-white TIM's when running things at extreme cold temps but most of us don't get into that kind of OC'ing anyway.

I'm going to try some AS5 Ceramique and have a tube or two headed here. I know it's not the same as regular AS5 or MX-2 but won't hurt to at least try it. I normally run MX-2 since it's cheaper than AS5 and has no cure time involved but it will harden like AS5 will after you've ran it for awhile - Has a texture not unlike plastic when it hardens but temps at least won't get any worse meaning it's still doing it's job.

I've heard before that regular AS5 will eventually quit transferring heat as well as it does when first applied and you'd need to redo the TIM every so often with it. I don't know if that's true or not and I've never ran into that but then again, I'm always swapping things around too. 
I'll also get around to trying the OCZ freeze stuff one day. If Blitz says it's good, that works for me.


 For nonlapped or delidded CPUs', ICD7 all the way man. That stuff is awesome, got about 3-5C cooler than OCZ freeze.

Although some words about it: ICD7 is BY FAR the thickest paste I've ever used. Even after I soaked it in some simmered water for 5 min, it was still hard to push. Even steady pressure is the key.

Then when mounting your cooler, you have to push down on it, towards the CPU, with a good deal of force, obviously be careful of your board.

But across the board on my 939's at the time (Opty165/delidded 3500+) 3C idle drop, 7C load temp drop over _cured_ AS5. I was VERY pleasantly surprised.

It also makes one hell of a polish for after lapping. Gives CPUs a mirror like finish.

As for ceramique, that's all those LN2 and LHe guys use. I believe they use some really fancy Shin-Etsu grease.

Shin-Etsu makes some REALLY good products. Definitely high quality stuff.


----------



## Kryton

Oh yeah - They use the ceramique because non-white TIMs will freeze at extreme low temps. 
Got my order in and will see how it does before long.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Black Omega*
As for ceramique, that's all those LN2 and LHe guys use. I believe they use some really fancy Shin-Etsu grease.

Shin-Etsu makes some REALLY good products. Definitely high quality stuff.

You've got to use Ceramique, even Shin-Etsu or other high quality pastes come apart under a certain thermal threshold.

Also:
Shin Etsu G751 = For Lapped CPU's
Shin Etsu X23 = For Non-Lapped CPU


----------



## Blitz6804

Do you happen to know some of the thermal thresholds? Are they all well below water cooling's capabilities? Cold water's capabilities?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Do you happen to know some of the thermal thresholds? Are they all well below water cooling's capabilities? Cold water's capabilities?

I don't think it's ever been tested. But I know MX-2/OCZ Freeze can both hold up to 5*C Range. As I've had a buddy do an "external loop" IE: Stick RAD & Res out the window in the dead of winter up in canada.


----------



## Blitz6804

I can assure you it gets much colder than 41Âº F in the the dead of winter in Canada; today was the first time I have seen 41Âº F since November in fact. Your buddy was not using MX-2 I take it?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Oh yeah - They use the ceramique because non-white TIMs will freeze at extreme low temps. 
Got my order in and will see how it does before long.


 I believe it's because they're oil based. As a matter of fact I have been contemplating using just a thin film of some synthetic motor oil and that's it. I believe in between 2 lapped surfaces it would do well. I'll have to give it a go in the not to distant future.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


You've got to use Ceramique, even Shin-Etsu or other high quality pastes come apart under a certain thermal threshold.

Also:
Shin Etsu G751 = For Lapped CPU's
Shin Etsu X23 = For Non-Lapped CPU


 Where do you usually order your Shin-Etsu from?

At the moment I'm using the white pigeon poop that ThermalRight used to sell (courtesy of TextMstrJoe







).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Do you happen to know some of the thermal thresholds? Are they all well below water cooling's capabilities? Cold water's capabilities?


 I wonder if there is a list of various thermal compunds and temp thresholds.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I can assure you it gets much colder than 41Âº F in the the dead of winter in Canada; today was the first time I have seen 41Âº F since November in fact. Your buddy was not using MX-2 I take it?


I meant -5*C (for got the - symbol) It could have been colder out, but that's what the water was registering at.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Where do you usually order your Shin-Etsu from?

At the moment I'm using the white pigeon poop that ThermalRight used to sell (courtesy of TextMstrJoe







).


I get it from any of my tech-shops:
Tech Shops Performance-PCs.com, ... sleeve it and they will come 
Petra's Tech Shop
HeatsinkFactory.com - CPU Coolers, Case Fans, Quiet Cooling, and Water Cooling
FrozenCPU.com | 1.877.243.8266 | World's Largest Selection of PC Modification Supplies 
Sidewinder Computers - Supplier of High Quality PC Modding and Cooling parts 
Jab-tech
Case mods and PC Modding Supplies


----------



## Blitz6804

I love FrozenCPU... they are about 50 miles away from me. Whatever I order, it is here next day via post office. (Your mileage will vary.) It is interesting in that I called with a product question, and I got the CEO on the phone. Talk about a small company.

I have also had good luck with Sidewinder if that helps any.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I believe it's because they're oil based. As a matter of fact I have been contemplating using just a thin film of some synthetic motor oil and that's it. I believe in between 2 lapped surfaces it would do well. I'll have to give it a go in the not to distant future.


One quart would last most people a lifetime







I guess if you used nothing in between 2 lapped surfaces, you would still have air which wouldn't work very well. A thin layer of oil would be about as close to nothing as you could get.


----------



## ny_driver

I was wondering last night about if my [email protected], that works correctly in dual channel, would be faster than my dual core opteron 170 @ 2.9GHz with single channel memory? 
Any thoughts on that subject? Thanks.


----------



## Blitz6804

I think the second core would trump the 90% speed increase on the memory. Most programs are more bound by the core speed than the memory speed when it comes to K8s. Now, Pentium 4s on the other hand...


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I was wondering last night about if my [email protected], that works correctly in dual channel, would be faster than my dual core opteron 170 @ 2.9GHz with single channel memory? 
Any thoughts on that subject? Thanks.










 I'd have to agree with Blitz; the second core, even in single channel, will way outperform a single core.

I did a comparison just for my own personal knowledge a while back using my 3500+ and a 3800x2. Clock for clock the 3800x2 performed considerably better than 3500+. Granted they were both running dual channel but the second core made a much more noticeable improvement in everything. 
In 3dm06 the score was double with a dual, in games everything ran more smoothly, not that the 3500+ was a slouch by any means; I wouldn't use it for anything very CPU intensive. Your run of the mill apps like MS office, web browsing; things along those lines. Even some older games ran perfectly fine on it.


----------



## mcoil112

hey all ...i have amd x2 3800+ little oc but if i seee your data then hmmm like wow..my problem is im so dumb and cant set memory speed divider at bios because im not sure what i am doing lol bois version is F10d and motherborad is GA-k8n-sli. belive someone has same computer that im looking into atm. plz help with some clues


----------



## Blitz6804

According to your manual, it should be found in the "Motherboard Intelligent Tweaker (M.I.T.)." (Page 49, 2-7.) Change "DDR Clock / Timing Mode" to "Manual" from "Auto," then you can select the CPU / DDR clock ratio. 2/2 would be DDR-400, 2/1.66 is DDR-333, 2/1.33 is DDR-266, et cetera. If for some reason these options do not show, return to the first page you are on when you enter the BIOS, hold Control, and hit F1. Gigabyte hides some of the features they feel the end user does not need.


----------



## mcoil112

tnx for helping mate. will to it tomorrow. today so slpeely already. i feel like overcloked myselt too


----------



## Blitz6804

I sometimes wonder if overvolting my brain might make me function better. Until I try that, I guess caffeine will need to do.


----------



## ny_driver

so I got one of these coolers coming new for $5 http://www.madshrimps.be/?action=get...96&articID=399 along with another used Enermax eg651p-ve/550w for $25 http://www.dansdata.com/eg651p.htm to use in my other Neo2 Platinum/back-up/downloading rig.
Anyways, should I lap the heck out of it and run my Opty 170 naked? It'll definitely run cooler naked right?


----------



## Blitz6804

58Âº C in a 20Âº C ambient? At 2.6 GHz!? Wow, that is a touch warm in my opinion. I would certainly run the Opty 170 topless if you have already delidded it. Just make sure you check that the cooler has full contact with the chip before turning it on. You may need to shave some height off of the mounting mechanism to have that.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


58Âº C in a 20Âº C ambient? At 2.6 GHz!? Wow, that is a touch warm in my opinion. I would certainly run the Opty 170 topless if you have already delidded it. Just make sure you check that the cooler has full contact with the chip before turning it on. You may need to shave some height off of the mounting mechanism to have that.


Kinda high, but look at the voltage...1.525v. At 2.4GHz and stock 1.35v the temps were pretty nice. And yes you're right I may have to do something to make sure it is snug to the core. Sounds like a plan now.

Should I lap the core a little, too? Just kidding.


----------



## Blitz6804

Well you know... I have heard of people lapping cores to some degree. However, only with Pentiums, not AMDs, since Pentiums supposedly had a cover over the die before you got to the heat spreader.


----------



## BlackOmega

Well guys I been swapping my 939 stuff around and trying to get my folding rigs back up and running (space heaters).

Got one up and running without a hitch.

Now the other one (actually the first one I tried), at first, didn't want to POST and had 4 LED's on the board. So I swapped out the CPU, try again same result. Swapped out the RAM same result.
Swapped out GPUs', etc. etc. No change. So I swap out the board for my other Ultra-D, put my 3800x2 in and 2 x 512 hyper x, works perfectly.

So then I decide to give the other board another go. I installed the PCP&C 750 in to my CM 331, install everything (had the battery out while everything was getting installed) and try to fire it up.
Now it's getting stuck with only 1 debug on.
I forgot what the LED's mean. You guys know of a list that has that info?

Rig specs: Naked 3500+, DFI LP Ultra D, 2 x 512 HyperX and 2 GPUs' .


----------



## mcoil112

hmm now im back and explain exatly what i did to my pc :working atm ref clock(bus) 235 Mhz, Ht multi 4x,cpu multip 10x,memory (ddr 400) setting is auto (tried to set CPU / DDR clock ratio. 2/2 but got bluescreen). i saw members who had same 3800+ x2 up to 2,8 GHz
id be peased if i could get 2,5 -2,6 gHZ, so please help me to get right settings because i belive these i have at moment arent corret. some must have exatly same hardware i got









tnx


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well guys I been swapping my 939 stuff around and trying to get my folding rigs back up and running (space heaters).

Got one up and running without a hitch.

Now the other one (actually the first one I tried), at first, didn't want to POST and had 4 LED's on the board. So I swapped out the CPU, try again same result. Swapped out the RAM same result. 
Swapped out GPUs', etc. etc. No change. So I swap out the board for my other Ultra-D, put my 3800x2 in and 2 x 512 hyper x, works perfectly.

So then I decide to give the other board another go. I installed the PCP&C 750 in to my CM 331, install everything (had the battery out while everything was getting installed) and try to fire it up. 
Now it's getting stuck with only 1 debug on. 
I forgot what the LED's mean. You guys know of a list that has that info?

Rig specs: Naked 3500+, DFI LP Ultra D, 2 x 512 HyperX and 2 GPUs' .


Award bios? Here are the beep codes for Award, phoenix and AMI.
I don't know what the leds mean, but are there beeps.....do you have the speaker hooked up? Try looking here...... http://www.helpwithpcs.com/upgrading...beep-codes.htm

If I find anything on the leds I'll let you know. I could never read the leds on the pci led card on my board anyways...the beeps, however, are simple.

EDIT:...I think this may be what you asked for initially.....http://csd.dficlub.org/forum/showthread.php?t=8603 ........hope it helps.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mcoil112* 
hmm now im back and explain exatly what i did to my pc :working atm ref clock(bus) 235 Mhz, Ht multi 4x,cpu multip 10x,memory (ddr 400) setting is auto (tried to set CPU / DDR clock ratio. 2/2 but got bluescreen). i saw members who had same 3800+ x2 up to 2,8 GHz
id be peased if i could get 2,5 -2,6 gHZ, so please help me to get right settings because i belive these i have at moment arent corret. some must have exatly same hardware i got









tnx

what memory(RAM) do you have and how many sticks, what are the stock timings, and what are the timings set to when you set it to DDR400?
Having more than 2 sticks of memory may cause it to run at a lower speed or not at all at certain speeds.
Looking at your system specs, I'd say to try 2 matching sticks of RAM, and only 2, if you want to overclock it. I'm here if you have any more questions.
Good Luck


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
Award bios? Here are the beep codes for Award, phoenix and AMI.
I don't know what the leds mean, but are there beeps.....do you have the speaker hooked up? Try looking here...... http://www.helpwithpcs.com/upgrading...beep-codes.htm

If I find anything on the leds I'll let you know. I could never read the leds on the pci led card on my board anyways...the beeps, however, are simple.

EDIT:...I think this may be what you asked for initially.....http://csd.dficlub.org/forum/showthread.php?t=8603 ........hope it helps.

Thanks for the links ny_driver. Although, the board doesn't have a display for LED codes, there are 4 debug LEDs that the board uses for its POST. All 4 light up then 1 by 1 they go out. Well mine stops when there's one. I believe that it has something to do with the GPU, but I'm not 100% positive. I think I might pull out both of the GSO's and clean the slots/gold fingers on the PCB and check the SLI jumpers, one be might be bad.
Man I really want to get that other rig going, the heat needs help (sucks in that area of the house), and 2 folding rigs really provide a good amount of heat while helping humanity.









Side note, weird thing is, I just tested this board out not more than a couple of weeks ago and it worked just fine.


----------



## BlackOmega

Ok, so following my assumption that it in fact had to do with the GPU; I removed both GPUs and cleaned the gold-fingers on the primary card. Lo and behold, fires right up. Kept BSODing when I got to win login screen. Check all my settings, even though I had the battery out during assembly, come to find out it auto set my RAM to CAS 2.








Even though this RAM is supposed to run @ CAS 2, that's at 266. Set it to CAS 3, no more BSOD. Time to get rig 2 folding away







.


----------



## playah

What'd you use to clean it


----------



## mcoil112

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
what memory(RAM) do you have and how many sticks, what are the stock timings, and what are the timings set to when you set it to DDR400?
Having more than 2 sticks of memory may cause it to run at a lower speed or not at all at certain speeds.
Looking at your system specs, I'd say to try 2 matching sticks of RAM, and only 2, if you want to overclock it. I'm here if you have any more questions.
Good Luck










i have ddr 400 i have 4 sticks 3*512 and 1*256 Mb accutally i didnt changed the timings because u wasnt sure what i was doing. 2*512mb ram was with computer but 2 others i buyed extra. timings for stock rams are : @200MHz 2,5-4-4-8 (cl-rcd-rp-ras)/12-14-2 (rc-rfc-rrd)
and two extra :
@ 200 MHz3.0-4-4-8 (CL-RCD-RP-RAS) / 12-14-2 (RC-RFC-RRD)
@ 166 MHz2.5-3-3-7 (CL-RCD-RP-RAS) / 10-12-2 (RC-RFC-RRD)
@ 133 MHz2.0-3-3-6 (CL-RCD-RP-RAS) / 8-10-2 (RC-RFC-RRD)
thisone is 256 MB
other last 512 :
@ 200 MHz3.0-3-3-8 (CL-RCD-RP-RAS) / 11-14-2 (RC-RFC-RRD)
@ 166 MHz2.5-3-3-7 (CL-RCD-RP-RAS) / 10-12-2 (RC-RFC-RRD)
@ 133 MHz2.0-2-2-6 (CL-RCD-RP-RAS) / 8-10-2 (RC-RFC-RRD)

as you can see i dont understand much about these timing. but seriously this is on part thats confusing me ( belive most important)

atm my system runs:
CPU Clock2300.8 MHz (original: 2000 MHz, overclock: 15%)
CPU Multiplier10.0x
CPU FSB230.1 MHz (original: 200 MHz, overclock: 15%)
HyperTransport Clock920.3 MHz
Memory Bus191.7 MHz
DRAM:FSB RatioCPU/12

Memory Timings2.5-4-4-7 (CL-RCD-RP-RAS)

DIMM1512 MB PC3200 DDR SDRAM (2.5-4-4-8 @ 200 MHz)
DIMM2512 MB PC3200 DDR SDRAM (2.5-4-4-8 @ 200 MHz)
DIMM3256 MB PC3200 DDR SDRAM (3.0-4-4-8 @ 200 MHz) (2.5-3-3-7 @ 166 MHz) (2.0-3-3-6 @ 133 MHz)
DIMM4: Hyundai HYMD264 646D8R-D43512 MB PC3200 DDR SDRAM (3.0-3-3-8 @ 200 MHz) (2.5-3-3-7 @ 166 MHz) (2.0-2-2-6 @ 133 MHz)
so if you have some instrutrions to me if gladly follow them


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *playah* 
What'd you use to clean it

A pencil eraser.







It works great.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mcoil112*


i have ddr 400 i have 4 sticks 3*512 and 1*256 Mb accutally i didnt changed the timings because u wasnt sure what i was doing. 2*512mb ram was with computer but 2 others i buyed extra. timings for stock rams are : @200MHz 2,5-4-4-8 (cl-rcd-rp-ras)/12-14-2 (rc-rfc-rrd) 
and two extra : 
@ 200 MHz3.0-4-4-8 (CL-RCD-RP-RAS) / 12-14-2 (RC-RFC-RRD)
@ 166 MHz2.5-3-3-7 (CL-RCD-RP-RAS) / 10-12-2 (RC-RFC-RRD)
@ 133 MHz2.0-3-3-6 (CL-RCD-RP-RAS) / 8-10-2 (RC-RFC-RRD) 
thisone is 256 MB 
other last 512 :
@ 200 MHz3.0-3-3-8 (CL-RCD-RP-RAS) / 11-14-2 (RC-RFC-RRD)
@ 166 MHz2.5-3-3-7 (CL-RCD-RP-RAS) / 10-12-2 (RC-RFC-RRD)
@ 133 MHz2.0-2-2-6 (CL-RCD-RP-RAS) / 8-10-2 (RC-RFC-RRD)

as you can see i dont understand much about these timing. but seriously this is on part thats confusing me ( belive most important)

atm my system runs:
CPU Clock2300.8 MHz (original: 2000 MHz, overclock: 15%)
CPU Multiplier10.0x
CPU FSB230.1 MHz (original: 200 MHz, overclock: 15%)
HyperTransport Clock920.3 MHz
Memory Bus191.7 MHz
DRAM:FSB RatioCPU/12

Memory Timings2.5-4-4-7 (CL-RCD-RP-RAS)

DIMM1512 MB PC3200 DDR SDRAM (2.5-4-4-8 @ 200 MHz)
DIMM2512 MB PC3200 DDR SDRAM (2.5-4-4-8 @ 200 MHz)
DIMM3256 MB PC3200 DDR SDRAM (3.0-4-4-8 @ 200 MHz) (2.5-3-3-7 @ 166 MHz) (2.0-3-3-6 @ 133 MHz)
DIMM4: Hyundai HYMD264 646D8R-D43512 MB PC3200 DDR SDRAM (3.0-3-3-8 @ 200 MHz) (2.5-3-3-7 @ 166 MHz) (2.0-2-2-6 @ 133 MHz)
so if you have some instrutrions to me if gladly follow them


OK, start out by putting only the 2 matched 512mb sticks in there...take the rest out. Set you memory at the 133 divider with 3-4-4-8-1T timings. Then start overclocking the cpu by 5-10 MHz at a time, each time it posts test to see if the cpu is stable. For quick testing use s&m 1.9.1 which can be found here under stability testing.... http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...e-tools-3.html

In the "settings" tab set it like you see in the following picture. If it passes that test, you can probably go higher...5-10MHz at a time. If it fails the L1 cache test you probably need a little more voltage. I find that sometimes when it fails the L2 cache test more voltage can help. make sure you are monitoring your temperatures when you are testing. The L2 cache failure and FPU test failure are usually due to excessive heat, or just too high an overclock. 
http://yfrog.com/3usmsettingstabp

You can get Core Temp at the same link under monitoring software. I assume you have cpu-z....keep track of how high your memory is clocking while you are overclocking your cpu. That's why I said use a 133 divider on the memory while we see how far your cpu will go. We can test to see how high the memory will go later. 1 step at a time.

Once you get the cpu cranked up pretty high, you should run a longer s&m test or run prime95 for a few hours minimum. Go ahead and get s&m and core temp installed, and when you have any more questions I'm here.









EDIT: once you get over 250 FSB lower the HT multi to 3.


----------



## mcoil112

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


OK, start out by putting only the 2 matched 512mb sticks in there...take the rest out. Set you memory at the 133 divider with 3-4-4-8-1T timings. Then start overclocking the cpu by 5-10 MHz at a time, each time it posts test to see if the cpu is stable. For quick testing use s&m 1.9.1 which can be found here under stability testing.... http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...e-tools-3.html

In the "settings" tab set it like you see in the following picture. If it passes that test, you can probably go higher...5-10MHz at a time. If it fails the L1 cache test you probably need a little more voltage. I find that sometimes when it fails the L2 cache test more voltage can help. make sure you are monitoring your temperatures when you are testing. The L2 cache failure and FPU test failure are usually due to excessive heat, or just too high an overclock. 
http://yfrog.com/3usmsettingstabp

You can get Core Temp at the same link under monitoring software. I assume you have cpu-z....keep track of how high your memory is clocking while you are overclocking your cpu. That's why I said use a 133 divider on the memory while we see how far your cpu will go. We can test to see how high the memory will go later. 1 step at a time.

Once you get the cpu cranked up pretty high, you should run a longer s&m test or run prime95 for a few hours minimum. Go ahead and get s&m and core temp installed, and when you have any more questions I'm here.









EDIT: once you get over 250 FSB lower the HT multi to 3.



tnx but im afraid dont have time to di this today probably tomorrow...if i make some progress will let know

but at start i leave ht multi to 4*?


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mcoil112* 
tnx but im afraid dont have time to di this today probably tomorrow...if i make some progress will let know

but at start i leave ht multi to 4*?

set it to 3x. the main reason for setting to 3x when overclocking is so the board will post without locking up or rebooting during your experiments. Generally speaking the final OC will be using a high HTT, well over 250 so even with 3x you are close to spec, close enough anyway. There is nothing wrong with running over 1000, if the machine is stable.

my computer....290FSB x 3 HTT = 870 HTlink


----------



## Blitz6804

ny_driver: mcoil112 has an nForce 4 board, which defaults to a 5x HT Link. (Unlike your nForce 3 which defaults to a 4x HT Link.) As long as HT stays around or below 1000 MHz, it should be fine. That is, 5x until about 210-220, 4x until about 250-265, 3x anything higher.


----------



## mcoil112

well im back online with my stupid pc and quiestions








here we go, my bios







cant handle it myselt so list of options i should chane to Set memory at the 133 divider with 3-4-4-8-1T timings:
option current setting needed setting
cpu/ddr clock ratio 2/2 xxx
cas#latency 2,5 xxx
min RAS # active time 8T
RAS # to CAS # delay 4T
row precharge time 4T
row to row delay 2T
row cycle time 12T
row refresh cyc time 14T
read to write time 4T
write recovery time 3bus clock
write to read dealy 2 bus clock
refresh rate 200MhZ 7,8bus 133MhZ (15,6 or 7,8 or 3,9???)
read preamble value 5,5ns
async latency value 7ns

so if someone can fill this crossword i can act.....tnx


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


ny_driver: mcoil112 has an nForce 4 board, which defaults to a 5x HT Link. (Unlike your nForce 3 which defaults to a 4x HT Link.) As long as HT stays around or below 1000 MHz, it should be fine. That is, 5x until about 210-220, 4x until about 250-265, 3x anything higher.


Thank you for that correction. I didn't know the nForce4 defaulted to 5x. I've never had one. I forgot my Abit K8T800pro defaulted to 5x. My board tops out about 1050MHz or so HT link, so I've read(although I had it at 1160 I think by accident







)


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mcoil112*


well im back online with my stupid pc and quiestions








here we go, my bios







cant handle it myselt so list of options i should chane to Set memory at the 133 divider with 3-4-4-8-1T timings:
option current setting needed setting
cpu/ddr clock ratio 2/2 xxx
cas#latency 2,5 xxx
min RAS # active time 8T
RAS # to CAS # delay 4T
row precharge time 4T
row to row delay 2T
row cycle time 12T
row refresh cyc time 14T
read to write time 4T
write recovery time 3bus clock
write to read dealy 2 bus clock
refresh rate 200MhZ 7,8bus 133MhZ (15,6 or 7,8 or 3,9???)
read preamble value 5,5ns
async latency value 7ns

so if someone can fill this crossword i can act.....tnx










tell me what your options are for cpu/ddr clock ratio and I'll tell you how to set that. 
EDIT: or you could just experiment with it and go look in cpuz to see what it's at.

set cas#latency to 3
set ras to cas delay to 4
set row precharge to 4
set min ras active time to 8

and the 1T is command rate...maybe row to row delay. in any case you should have setting where 1T and 2T are the only choices. set it to 1T.

EDIT: more coffee please


----------



## Blitz6804

2/1.33 would be for DDR-266 divider.


----------



## mcoil112

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
tell me what your options are for cpu/ddr clock ratio and I'll tell you how to set that.
EDIT: or you could just experiment with it and go look in cpuz to see what it's at.

set cas#latency to 3
set ras to cas delay to 4
set row precharge to 4
set min ras active time to 8

and the 1T is command rate...maybe row to row delay. in any case you should have setting where 1T and 2T are the only choices. set it to 1T.

EDIT: more coffee please

cpu/ddr clock ratio was 2/2 atm
but i try now yours confing good luck to me


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mcoil112* 
cpu/ddr clock ratio was 2/2 atm
but i try now yours confing good luck to me









It would be best if your max temperatures didn't get above 60c, so if you are seeing temps up in the 60-65 + range you should probably stop. You may need to increase airflow and lower the temperature somehow.


----------



## mcoil112

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
It would be best if your max temperatures didn't get above 60c, so if you are seeing temps up in the 60-65 + range you should probably stop. You may need to increase airflow and lower the temperature somehow.

cpu/ddr clock ratio goes 2/1,33?
and cpu multiplier 8X? or for staring i leave it 10?
i have changed cpu stock cooler not very good but should work. will keep eye on temps


----------



## Blitz6804

I usually advocate leaving it at its highest setting (10x) until stability cannot be obtained even with a modest voltage bump. At which point, decrease to 9x, and continue raising the HTT. Then 8x, et cetera. Take capacious notes of this whole process.


----------



## Blitz6804

For the record, since you have a E4 x2 3800+, your maximum safe operating temperature is 71Âº C, but if you are in excess of 1.400 V, you would want to see a number lower than that for greatest longevity of the chip.


----------



## mcoil112

ht 4X 
cpu clock 240 
cpu multi 10X

orthos failed in 2 mins----Test 1, 4000 Lucas-Lehmer iterations of M19922945 using 1024K FFT length.
FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0.5, expected less than 0.4
Hardware failure detected, consult stress.txt file.
Torture Test ran 0 minutes 33 seconds - 1 errors, 0 warnings.
Execution halted.
ram frequensy is ok 160MHz by cpu-z i should have more room to go. any ideas what should do? cpu multiplier? my add volts or so?

abt this commant rate didnt found place to set it 1T its still 2T


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mcoil112*


ht 4X 
cpu clock 240 
cpu multi 10X

orthos failed in 2 mins----Test 1, 4000 Lucas-Lehmer iterations of M19922945 using 1024K FFT length.
FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0.5, expected less than 0.4
Hardware failure detected, consult stress.txt file.
Torture Test ran 0 minutes 33 seconds - 1 errors, 0 warnings.
Execution halted.
ram frequensy is ok 160MHz by cpu-z i should have more room to go. any ideas what should do? cpu multiplier? my add volts or so?

abt this commant rate didnt found place to set it 1T its still 2T


I never used orthos....so I would still try adding a little voltage. If you used s&m like I said you could follow my instructions.

command rate = row to row delay I'm pretty sure, but I'm just guessing. If you change it and it posts go to cpuz and look to see what changed.


----------



## mcoil112

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I never used orthos....so I would still try adding a little voltage. If you used s&m like I said you could follow my instructions.

command rate = row to row delay I'm pretty sure.



ok sry i keep going s&m now next try at 240bus again

command rate = row to row delay min setting is 2T cant take it down only upwards


----------



## Blitz6804

Command rate is command rate. Row to Row delay is tRRD and should be left at the default unless you are an experienced tweaker. Unless I am mistaken, your board will not show Command Rate (tCR) unless you have hit Ctrl+F1 at the opening page of the BIOS. There is not a huge danger to leaving it at 2T, your bandwidth will just be slightly lower. (At the advantage of greater stability.)

If Orthos gets a rounding error, you have a voltage too low. Decrease your CPU multiplier by one. If you still get the rounding error, bump your chipset voltage. If the error goes away, either keep increasing the HTT with the decreased multiplier, or increase CPU voltage until it no longer gets the rounding error with the higher multiplier.

EDIT: While you are in the MIT, also change "CPU Spread Spectrum" from "Center Spread" to "Disabled." This will slightly increase EMF off your computer, but usually increases stability. As long as you do not have a pacemaker, you should be fine.


----------



## mcoil112

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Command rate is command rate. Row to Row delay is tRRD and should be left at the default unless you are an experienced tweaker. Unless I am mistaken, your board will not show Command Rate (tCR) unless you have hit Ctrl+F1 at the opening page of the BIOS. There is not a huge danger to leaving it at 2T, your bandwidth will just be slightly lower. (At the advantage of greater stability.)

If Orthos gets a rounding error, you have a voltage too low. Decrease your CPU multiplier by one. If you still get the rounding error, bump your chipset voltage. If the error goes away, either keep increasing the HTT with the decreased multiplier, or increase CPU voltage until it no longer gets the rounding error with the higher multiplier.

EDIT: While you are in the MIT, also change "CPU Spread Spectrum" from "Center Spread" to "Disabled." This will slightly increase EMF off your computer, but usually increases stability. As long as you do not have a pacemaker, you should be fine.


ht 4 x
cpu clock 240
cpu multi 10X

added volts, now 1,4 V s&m finishing first test(20min) seems at the moment its all ok but belive cant go up much anymore because max temp was 57C showed by s&m. if test is finished i try to take down volt by one step and test again stpck volt 1,350


----------



## Blitz6804

The hottest test of S&M is the FPU test. The first test is much cooler by comparison.


----------



## mcoil112

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
The hottest test of S&M is the FPU test. The first test is much cooler by comparison.

well i think i keep this setting i just tested, hope it will last also








dram frequenscy is 160 MHz at this setting is ok or should be higher?


----------



## Blitz6804

It is low for normal operation, but to test the limits of your CPU, this is what we want.


----------



## mcoil112

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
It is low for normal operation, but to test the limits of your CPU, this is what we want.

ht 4x
cpu clock 245
cpu multi 10x
volts 1,4
i got blue screen.
now i add volts?


----------



## Blitz6804

Try CPU multi 9x, keep everything else the same.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mcoil112* 
ht 4 x
cpu clock 240
cpu multi 10X

added volts, now 1,4 V s&m finishing first test(20min) seems at the moment its all ok but belive cant go up much anymore because max temp was 57C showed by s&m. if test is finished i try to take down volt by one step and test again stpck volt 1,350

s&m test, if you set the settings like I showed in the picture(short duration/100% load), should finish in about 5-6 minutes. L1, L2, integer, and FPU.


----------



## mcoil112

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
s&m test, if you set the settings like I showed in the picture(short duration/100% load), should finish in about 5-6 minutes. L1, L2, integer, and FPU.

changed setting like you said short etc
now testing ht 4x
cpu clock 250
cpu multi 9x
vots 1,4
----------
last test 245 cpu was ok
------------------------
ht 4x
cpu clock 250
cpu multi 9x
vots 1,4

temp reached 60 C
should i go on?


----------



## Blitz6804

As long as the temperature does not go much over 65Âº C, you should be fine for this stage of testing. While your thermal spec is 71Âº C, as I said before, it is winter time right now. If you have your CPU up to 71Âº C now, it would overheat in the summer time.

So I would say keep going up for now.


----------



## mcoil112

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


As long as the temperature does not go much over 65Âº C, you should be fine for this stage of testing. While your thermal spec is 71Âº C, as I said before, it is winter time right now. If you have your CPU up to 71Âº C now, it would overheat in the summer time.

So I would say keep going up for now.


--------
soon will be next test 
htx3 (beacuse before you said 4x until 266 and 3x higher)
cpu 270
multi 9x 
volts 1,4


----------



## Blitz6804

Based on where you needed to change from 10x to 9x, I am anticipating that 275 will likely blue screen.


----------



## mcoil112

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Based on where you needed to change from 10x to 9x, I am anticipating that 275 will likely blue screen.


you said it couple sheets ago to turn it 9X when i got blue screen
-----------------------

yup you where right 275 was blue screen. last working was 270
next commands







? volts or memory


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, here is the crossroads. You can either try 275x8 and keep going, or, you can nod out. What would likely work well:

270x9
4x HT link
RAM @ 2/1.5

This should give 2430 MHz with DDR-406, HyperTransport of 1080 MHz. You might need to give HyperTransport and/or RAM +0.1 in MIT.

Should you continue with 8x multiplier, you will likely blue screen again past 305, likely never to regain stability regardless of multiplier.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mcoil112*


you said it couple sheets ago to turn it 9X when i got blue screen
-----------------------

yup you where right 275 was blue screen. last working was 270
next commands







? volts or memory


sounds to me like you've pretty much reached the limit of your cpu. you could try more voltage, but it's going to start getting hot.

now you have to see how high your memory will go within the limits of the cpu. what's the memory reading with a 133 divider and the cpu at 270 x 9?

what you have to do now is lower the cpu down to stock, and lower the multiplier so you know you won't exceed the cpus limit while testing the memory. set your memory divider at 2/2 and start increasing the FSB(cpu clock) 5 MHz at a time until computer won't post anymore, then back it down 5 MHz. now you know how high the cpu will go and how high the memory will go. You have to figure out which combination of cpu and memory divider gives you the highest cpu speed along with the highest memory speed you can reach with the cpu at it's max. So test the memory now.

EDIT: or just set it to what blitz said.


----------



## mcoil112

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Well, here is the crossroads. You can either try 275x8 and keep going, or, you can nod out. What would likely work well:

270x9
4x HT link
RAM @ 2/1.5

This should give 2430 MHz with DDR-406, HyperTransport of 1080 MHz. You might need to give HyperTransport and/or RAM +0.1 in MIT.

Should you continue with 8x multiplier, you will likely blue screen again past 305, likely never to regain stability regardless of multiplier.


i beilve will stay at setting you just calculated for me







thank you very much dude. made a huge work for me.
maybe later i try to put back extra ram but only 512mb or is it bad idea?


----------



## Blitz6804

Assuming my math is correct ny_driver, 270x9 with DDR-266 should yield DDR-347.

mcoil112: I made the assumption you would not want to increase voltage past 1.400 V. I personally would not recommend it if you are using a stock heatsink. The exception to that being is if you have something that is almost completely stable (failing Orthos after six hours) in which another 25 mV would be in order.

As to RAM, it is generally a bad idea to run mismatched RAM. It is a terrible idea to run an odd number of DIMMs. When you have even numbers, you can run your RAM in dual channel, which increases its bandwidth up to 99%. Odd numbers runs in single channel only.


----------



## mcoil112

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


sounds to me like you've pretty much reached the limit of your cpu. you could try more voltage, but it's going to start getting hot.

now you have to see how high your memory will go within the limits of the cpu. what's the memory reading with a 133 divider and the cpu at 270 x 9?

what you have to do now is lower the cpu down to stock, and lower the multiplier so you know you won't exceed the cpus limit while testing the memory. set your memory divider at 2/2 and start increasing the FSB(cpu clock) 5 MHz at a time until computer won't post anymore, then back it down 5 MHz. now you know how high the cpu will go and how high the memory will go. You have to figure out which combination of cpu and memory divider gives you the highest cpu speed along with the highest memory speed you can reach with the cpu at it's max. So test the memory now.

EDIT: or just set it to what blitz said.


i must print all this conversation my need it later. will test memory some other day. today bored already. its 3:29 AM here hehe need to go sleep. but thank you aslo very much. keep in touch









to blitz6804 : i have changed my cpu cooler so i can add volts. s&m showed 62C temp with last test 270 bus it should work


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mcoil112*


i beilve will stay at setting you just calculated for me







thank you very much dude. made a huge work for me.
maybe later i try to put back extra ram but only 512mb or is it bad idea?


You might get it to run with 3 sticks in there only overclocked to DDR406. Not sure how your board will react to 3 sticks of memory. I'd certainly try it. Make sure you test memory with memtest.

EDIT: I didn't know it ran single channel only with 3 sticks.....I'd certainly NOT try it.


----------



## Blitz6804

mcoil112: When you get to where you want it, run Orthos for at least 8 hours, 12-24 hours would be better. If you do not crash in that time, you can safely say your computer is stable enough.

ny_driver: I am willing to bet that 1024 MB in dual channel would run Windows better than 1536 MB in single channel.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


ny_driver: I am willing to bet that 1024 MB in dual channel would run Windows better than 1536 MB in single channel.


Yes, I'm sure you are right. Didn't know 3 sticks went single channel.


----------



## mcoil112

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


mcoil112: When you get to where you want it, run Orthos for at least 8 hours, 12-24 hours would be better. If you do not crash in that time, you can safely say your computer is stable enough.

ny_driver: I am willing to bet that 1024 MB in dual channel would run Windows better than 1536 MB in single channel.



okk im off for today. let you know if system is stable tomorrow. also added 0,25mv to cpu and +0,1 ht and ram as You reccomended


----------



## Blitz6804

If it would POST at all ny_driver, it would go single channel. Some motherboards (my GA-K8NSC-939, nVidia nForce 3 for example) say in the manual it will not POST with only three DIMMs.


----------



## ny_driver

3 is not listed as a recommended memory combination in my Neo2 users manual.
In fact it goes on to say..."DO NOT install 3 memory modules in 3 DIMM's or it may cause some failure"

So if it says maximum memory speed decreases when slots 1 and 3 have a dual sided module it them, does that mean that my memory will not overclock properly in that combination? If so, that kind of explains why my memory will not overclock in single channel. I think I'll take out 1 GB and see how things go....... see if it's better with 1 GB of RAM at 270MHz 3-3-2-8-1T vs. 2 GB at 207MHz 2-3-2-5-2T.


----------



## Blitz6804

Single channel to single channel? I would take the 2 GB at DDR-414 over 1 GB at DDR-540. The former might only be 3.3 GBps and the latter 4.3 GBps, but the extra gigabyte should make up for it.

Regards the one/three comment, that is likely going towards the proverbial 4 GB of RAM. If you use all double-sided DIMMs, it will drop to DDR-333. Run single-sided DIMMs, and hypothetically, you could keep it at DDR-400. This is why 2 GB (4x512 MB) usually can run at DDR-400... most are only single-sided.


----------



## ny_driver

ok, sounds reasonable enough for me. I'll just stick with the 2 GB. I didn't really feel like opening up the case to remove the RAM and reset the cmos anyways.
Thanks.


----------



## ny_driver

I'm going to make the back-up neo2 with the topless Opty breadboard style (I think that's what it's called), just for something different to do. Should be a pretty simple little project to design a thing to attach the mobo and PSU and the various drives to tomorrow.

EDIT: I'd rather set it on a board than in one of the POS cases stacked in the corner.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Single channel to single channel? I would take the 2 GB at DDR-414 over 1 GB at DDR-540. The former might only be 3.3 GBps and the latter 4.3 GBps, but the extra gigabyte should make up for it.

Regards the one/three comment, that is likely going towards the proverbial 4 GB of RAM. If you use all double-sided DIMMs, it will drop to DDR-333. Run single-sided DIMMs, and hypothetically, you could keep it at DDR-400. This is why 2 GB (4x512 MB) usually can run at DDR-400... most are only single-sided.


I had to test it, so I took out 1 stick and now I have the CPU @ 3020MHz with the RAM @ 252MHz 2.5-3-2-5-1T. I ran one race to test FPS and I have to say that GTR2 seems to run better...smoother. FPS test including the start of the race I got an average of 48FPS over 5 minutes which is slightly better than with CPU @ 2.9GHz and the RAM @ 207MHz with 2-3-2-5-2T. Although I think Windows would prefer to have the 2GB of RAM for everyday tasks. I'll test @ Monaco a few more times and test at some other tracks, too before deciding one way or the other.

EDIT: after some more testing I'd say I'm getting 5 FPS better. that is a considerable amount. glad I tried that.







Hopefully I can lower the voltage a notch or 2, down to like 1.5v.....not that it's getting too hot as it is.......58/62c during FPU test isn't too bad IMO. Oh well it's bedtime here in sherburne, ny.......cu guys tomorrow.

morning EDIT: not passing s&m L1 test @ 3GHz with less than 1.52v. @ 2.9 GHz it passes with 1.43v. I was going to try for 3.2 GHz, but I'm not going to go any higher on the voltage using just air to cool it. Time to run a couple races and test the FPS.


----------



## mcoil112

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


If it would POST at all ny_driver, it would go single channel. Some motherboards (my GA-K8NSC-939, nVidia nForce 3 for example) say in the manual it will not POST with only three DIMMs.


ok im online now...didnt add memery stick left 2*512 
but 270*9 htx4 crashed so i took down to 265*9 cpu and ht X4 now it was stable after 6hour test


----------



## Blitz6804

I wonder if that is RAM related or CPU related, since your RAM would be slightly overclocked at 270x9 with 2/1.5. Could you, for sake of experiment, try 270x9 with 2/1.33?


----------



## mcoil112

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I wonder if that is RAM related or CPU related, since your RAM would be slightly overclocked at 270x9 with 2/1.5. Could you, for sake of experiment, try 270x9 with 2/1.33?


ok im opened to new options will to it and let know what happened
-------------------------------

now testing with s&m but memory is now 173 mhz
and one thing more i read motherboard manual and seemed that cpu 300 is max for me


----------



## Blitz6804

If it runs fine, your RAM does not like being overclocked, even only a few megahertz. If it fails, your CPU is a touch too high.

If it is the CPU, put back the RAM to 2/1.5, and if you have the thermal overhead for it, give the CPU another 25 mV. (So it would be 1.450 V at that point; I personally never overvolted further.)

If it is the RAM, might as well drop the CPU to 8x, the RAM to 2/1.33, the HyperTransport to 3x, and keep cranking the HTT up after all. 275, 280, 285... how high will it go? Who knows until you try!


----------



## mcoil112

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


If it runs fine, your RAM does not like being overclocked, even only a few megahertz. If it fails, your CPU is a touch too high.

If it is the CPU, put back the RAM to 2/1.5, and if you have the thermal overhead for it, give the CPU another 25 mV. (So it would be 1.450 V at that point; I personally never overvolted further.)

If it is the RAM, might as well drop the CPU to 8x, the RAM to 2/1.33, the HyperTransport to 3x, and keep cranking the HTT up after all. 275, 280, 285... how high will it go? Who knows until you try!


now it runs ok 
my goal is get ram as close to 200mhz as possible?, will raise cpu little bit. cant go very much up with cpu because of temp









witch option is bettter 
1) cpu 268*9 ht 4 ram 2/1,5 or
2)cpu 275(or more ) x9 cpu multi and ht3 ram 2/1,33 ?


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, remember the problem is that with a 9x multiplier, the CPU could not run past 270. Specifically, 275 bluescreened. Thus, you need to drop to an 8x multiplier. In theory, 300x8 with 2/1.33 will give you a 2.4 GHz CPU with DDR-400. I am skeptical that this would be stable however, given that most boards start having issues above 270 or so. If 275x8, or anything higher, is unstable, give the chipset +0.1 in the MIT.


----------



## ny_driver

So now that I'm using only 1 stick of memory, of course I wanted to see how high the memory will run. Well, when I tested this mushkin with both sticks in dual channel on my 180 it passed memtest @ 270MHz. Now I tested it with only the one stick and it fails memtest at 270MHz(which is 2.98GHz 298x10 with 183 divider). It runs fine and passes with the one stick @ 252MHz(which is 3.02GHz 302x10 with a 166 divider)....I should try the other stick, but it's kind of a pain to put memory in the first slot. I think that's just the way the cookie crumbles when you are running 1 stick of memory. It runs better in dual channel, which kind of makes sense to me.
What do you think?


----------



## redhat_ownage

ny driver, you wouldn't happen to have your dead neo 2 would you?
i seem to have killed my dfi with my shaky hands last night when i was checking the voltage at the chipset because it seemed to be running hot.
then my probe slipped and shorted something.
i have a nf3 250 chip from my abit but i don't know if it will work on the 250gb board.

o and before i killed it i got a 512mb single sided micron -5B D running at 280mhz 3-4-4-8 2.8V
and a 512mb stick of mushkin 991145 with -5B G chips to 295mhz 3-4-4-9 3.1V


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage*


ny driver, you wouldn't happen to have your dead neo 2 would you?
i seem to have killed my dfi with my shaky hands last night when i was checking the voltage at the chipset because it seemed to be running hot.
then my probe slipped and shorted something.
i have a nf3 250 chip from my abit but i don't know if it will work on the 250gb board.

o and before i killed it i got a 512mb single sided micron -5B D running at 280mhz 3-4-4-8 2.8V
and a 512mb stick of mushkin 991145 with -5B G chips to 295mhz 3-4-4-9 3.1V


sure I do and yes you could have it if you pay the shipping charges. I was just keeping it around as a trophy, and in case I need a bios chip someday. would you care if I took out the bios chip, I'd really like to have an extra one around, you should be able to use the one from your dead board. I have 2 working Neo2 boards, but I need to flash the bios on the back-up...and I'll do it this weekend as soon as my PSU and Heatsink get here. let me know if you want it.









EDIT: the Neo2 has the nForce3 250 chip also.

and a quick question...isn't my agp bus supposed to be at like 66(not 83)? It's set to 66 in BIOS, but clockgen tells me it's at 83.3.

EDIT: nvidia system tools also tells me my agp bus is at 83MHz. maybe that's why I thought there were some weird flickering things on a couple tracks I tried.
How do I lower it if it's set to the minimum 66 in BIOS, other than with clockgen. I guess I could lower it with nvidia system tools also, but will I then have to do that every time I fire up the pc?

OK I got figured out how to adjust it back to 66 and keep it there, but how did it get overclocked in the first place?

EDIT: lowering it to 66 from 83 fixed the flickering crap at Long Beach street course.


----------



## ny_driver

I sold my 4x512 Crucial Ballistix to a guy on ebay, and he gets them today and tells me that after testing 3 out of 4 sticks are no good. I know there was nothing wrong with the sticks, I used them with no problems, and each pair tested out at 250MHz. I guess I'll give him a refund unless it appears that he tried pulling some kind of swap on me, and I'll call it a lesson learned about ebay.


----------



## Blitz6804

Did you sell them with a stated warranty or "as-is?" Are they still covered under Crucial's warranty?


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Did you sell them with a stated warranty or "as-is?" Are they still covered under Crucial's warranty?


stated warranty...I don't know anything about crucials warranty..I heard they went under or something.

EDIT: looks like they still offer lifetime warranty to original purchaser(me)....thanks blitz!
maybe I can convince them to send me 2x1GB to replace the 4x512mb


----------



## Acoma_Andy

Hey guys, I finished the socket 939 rig with the AMD 785G board. Now I just need some help overclocking the thing, since I'm not getting much luck with it.

Thread is here:
http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...ket-939-a.html


----------



## ny_driver

I'd turn the memory down to the 133 divider and set the multiplier @ 10 and see how high your FSB will go, and when it starts not posting and more voltage won't help lower the multiplier. Your chip may not do 3GHz.







Or maybe it used to, but it's getting old and electromigration is affecting it. I have a 3700+ KACAE that doesn't clock as well as it used to.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


yeah, 2 minutes..... you can see the 270x10 is the 200:200, and the 300x9 is the 200:183.

EDIT: I added a screenshot of the memory benchmark results with single channel memory just for comparison.

Look how much better the cpu #s are with 200MHz more. The memory results are terrible.


blitz look at how much better the memory#s and the cpu#s are with just 1 stick instead of 2 in single channel.....120MHz more cpu and 89MHz more on the memory, but half the memory. very interesting.


----------



## Blitz6804

Personally, I would think that in the real world, 2 GB at 3085 MBps would work out better than 1 GB at 3820 MBps. Have you done any empirical testing (rigid benchmarks with a publishable result) or only anecdotal testing (the "feel" of the computer)?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Please welcome our newest member, 420Assassin!


----------



## redhat_ownage

yea you can keep anything you want on it heatsinks caps whatever you want.


----------



## eternalenergy311

hey guys,

I recently got a new server, the board is an n440bx, it was working but would not load the existing OS. it won't boot from any cd-rom scsi or other. Does anyone have any expiernce with these old monsters. Or can someone send me to a forum that might help. This thing is a monster, 4 PSU, 7 scsi drives, 5 cd-rom....i would love to use it as a data server but i'm lost. I know this is not the right place to post this but c'mon one of you guys has prob dealt with this type of animal before. Thanks in advance for any help.


----------



## redhat_ownage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


hey guys,

I recently got a new server, the board is an n440bx, it was working but would not load the existing OS. it won't boot from any cd-rom scsi or other. Does anyone have any expiernce with these old monsters. Or can someone send me to a forum that might help. This thing is a monster, 4 PSU, 7 scsi drives, 5 cd-rom....i would love to use it as a data server but i'm lost. I know this is not the right place to post this but c'mon one of you guys has prob dealt with this type of animal before. Thanks in advance for any help.


i have a pair of p3 xeon 600mhz cpu's
i pulled them off my now dead dell PE2400


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage*


i have a pair of p3 xeon 600mhz cpu's
i pulled them off my now dead dell PE2400


i guess i don't think the cpus i have are bad, dual p3 450's. Are you wanting to sell yours or looking for a new server?


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Personally, I would think that in the real world, 2 GB at 3085 MBps would work out better than 1 GB at 3820 MBps. Have you done any empirical testing (rigid benchmarks with a publishable result) or only anecdotal testing (the "feel" of the computer)?

so far just the feel of the computer during GTR2, and the FRAPS. Like I said before I don't think the system is better overall with the 1GB(programs load a little slower and such), but in GTR2 I seem to get better FPS which is all that really matters. I'm sure I'll be a lot better off with 2 sticks in dual channel when I get my new (LCB9E)Opty 180.

I just discovered yesterday that my AGP clock was cranked up to 83.3MHz. I don't know how that happened, or how long it's been that way. It's been at least a week though because I d/l a track called Long Beach on th 17th and there were some graphical issues I couldn't explain even when I lowered the detail and stuff. Since I lowered the AGP clock back to 66MHz I can race that track fine.

I will do some more testing right now....I'll run an identical race 2x with each setup. I'll also get a benchmark program for the memory and test it 1 stick







vs.







2 sticks in single channel, just so we can see the results.

EDIT:OK here is the results after 2 races with each configuration at Monaco at with 10 opponents....

2010-02-25 08:37:17 - GTR2([email protected] [email protected] 2.5-3-2-5-1T)
Frames: 13477 - Time: 300000ms - Avg: 44.923 - Min: 28 - Max: 81

2010-02-25 08:46:24 - GTR2
Frames: 14976 - Time: 300000ms - Avg: 49.920 - Min: 23 - Max: 84

2010-02-25 09:35:39 - GTR2([email protected] [email protected] 3-3-3-8-2T)
Frames: 13103 - Time: 300000ms - Avg: 43.677 - Min: 28 - Max: 65

2010-02-25 09:52:43 - GTR2
Frames: 14042 - Time: 300000ms - Avg: 46.807 - Min: 28 - Max: 65

and here are the right mark memory analyzer results..... http://img294.imageshack.us/g/rmma1stick.png/

my conclusion is that having a higher max frame rate is not important to me, and that is basically all I get from using just 1 stick, ohh and the ability to overclock the cpu to 3GHz at a cost of significantly increased voltage(1.52 vs. 1.43)...and the bandwidth #s are way better with 1 stick than 2, but I guess the other GB evens out the results. I think I'll stick with the 2GB like you suggested blitz.








I feel better having seen the real world results for myself though. I hope someone finds my experiment somewhat interesting. Of course I'll have to add the results when I get my new cpu in a few weeks.

Stay tuned for more exciting adventures with ny_driver.









and of course welcome to the club 420Assassin............and pass it this way









Yes another EDIT:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
stated warranty...I don't know anything about crucials warranty..I heard they went under or something.

EDIT: looks like they still offer lifetime warranty to original purchaser(me)....thanks blitz!
maybe I can convince them to send me 2x1GB to replace the 4x512mb

Crucial says they will replace the 4x512 ballistix with these http://www.crucial.com/store/partspe...CT2KIT6464Z40B


----------



## Blitz6804

Were these the Ballistix you sold? If so, I would demand that Crucial do better, because that is hardly an equitable swap.

When my Corsairs died (DDR-400 2-3-3-6 with massive heatsinks), they offered to replace with the then top of the line (DDR-400 2.5-3-3-6 with normal heatsinks). I told them that was not equivalent, and they said they would refund me if I sent a receipt. I sent one, and they refunded me. The money they refunded was exactly what I paid for them, some $280, and that was enough to buy 2 DDR-500 Mushkin Kits! Seriously.


----------



## Blitz6804

To quote Crucial's Warranty:

Quote:

With respect to Crucial Ballistix products, Crucial warrants to the original end customer of its products specified below that its products are free from defects in material and workmanship affecting form, fit, and function. All such products sold will meet the datasheet specifications as found on its Web page (www.crucial.com/ballistix). Any claim made alleging that any product fails to conform to the foregoing warranty may be made only by the end customer who purchased such product and only while such customer owns such product. Crucial, at its option, will repair, replace, or provide a credit or refund of either the original purchase price or fair market value, whichever is lower, of any product that is determined by Crucial to be defective.
So it seems you need to refund and get the RAM back at which point you can RMA. The RAM they offer is not a replacement for the RAM you have, so unless they will replace with equivalent product, they will need to repair, refund the fair market value, or the original purchase price. (Whichever is lower.)


----------



## playah

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Were these the Ballistix you sold? If so, I would demand that Crucial do better, because that is hardly an equitable swap.

When my Corsairs died (DDR-400 2-3-3-6 with massive heatsinks), they offered to replace with the then top of the line (DDR-400 2.5-3-3-6 with normal heatsinks). I told them that was not equivalent, and they said they would refund me if I sent a receipt. I sent one, and they refunded me. The money they refunded was exactly what I paid for them, some $280, and that was enough to buy 2 DDR-500 Mushkin Kits! Seriously.


You did better than I did, when my Mushkin Lvl II v2 TCCD (250.00) died they replaced them with a 40.00 set of ram, swore right then I would never again buy another set of ram from them


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, my RAM was Corsair. I replaced it with Mushkin. After having it a few months, I was forced to swing to AM2, and got myself G.Skill Pis. They worked fine for me, broke for the person I sold to. I got a defective set of G.Skill DDR2-1066 when I sold the Pis, the replacement set works, but it is missing a divider. This is common, two other people I know with the same exact set cannot run DDR2-667. (DDR2-400, 800, and 1066 all work fine.) So I think Corsair will be where I return when I make the jump to DDR3.


----------



## playah

I've always G.Skill or OCZ lifetime no questions asked warranty


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Were these the Ballistix you sold? If so, I would demand that Crucial do better, because that is hardly an equitable swap.

When my Corsairs died (DDR-400 2-3-3-6 with massive heatsinks), they offered to replace with the then top of the line (DDR-400 2.5-3-3-6 with normal heatsinks). I told them that was not equivalent, and they said they would refund me if I sent a receipt. I sent one, and they refunded me. The money they refunded was exactly what I paid for them, some $280, and that was enough to buy 2 DDR-500 Mushkin Kits! Seriously.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


To quote Crucial's Warranty:So it seems you need to refund and get the RAM back at which point you can RMA. The RAM they offer is not a replacement for the RAM you have, so unless they will replace with equivalent product, they will need to repair, refund the fair market value, or the original purchase price. (Whichever is lower.)


yup, the exact ones. I told the lady on the phone I didn't feel it was a fair swap and that what she was offering(2x $40 kits) was in no way comparable to what I have that is defective. I tried to get her to give me 2x1GB, but they couldn't do that. I told her I'd have to call back to set up the RMA. I guess I could try demanding the refund($236), but I doubt I'll get it. I'm sure I'll need to speak to her superior. I bought 1 set in late 2006 and the other set early 2007, so they are actually pretty old so I'll probably have a tough time convincing them to give a refund. I'd be happy if they would provide me with a newegg credit enough to buy just 1 more Mushkin xp4000 kit. I might be able to make something more acceptable happen than what they are offering currently.


----------



## Blitz6804

I am sure they would more likely give the fair market value. What did they go for on eBay? That could be good evidence tending toward fair market value, even if it was not dispositive. Are there more kits listed on eBay? If so, I would collect a bunch of them to demonstrate to Crucial what the fair market value is.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I am sure they would more likely give the fair market value. What did they go for on eBay? That could be good evidence tending toward fair market value, even if it was not dispositive. Are there more kits listed on eBay? If so, I would collect a bunch of them to demonstrate to Crucial what the fair market value is.


I got them to agree to give me 4x1GB sticks(2 kits).....these here.......
http://www.crucial.com/store/partspe...T2KIT12864Z40B
.........which I am much happier with.









I could plop the 4GB in my backup rig and sell the 2GB OCZ platinum I have. Not sure what I'll do.


----------



## ny_driver

I've tried several different timing configurations, but I cannot get my system to POST with 2 sticks in single channel @ 1T. It would be much better if I could. Have you ever tried 2 sticks in single channel....do you know if it's normal that they won't run @ 1T, or is it just specific to my damaged CPU?

Thanks blitz.....and regarding your comment, I would love to make it run a little faster
my memory is at the settings in the picture. I've tried 2-3-2-5, 2-2-2-6, 2.5-3-2-5, 3-3-2-5, 3-3-3-6, 3-3-3-7, 3-4-4-7, (stock 3-3-2-8), 3-3-3-8, 3-4-4-8, 3-4-4-9, 3-4-4-10, 3-4-4-11, and I just can't get the memory to pass memtest @ 215MHz(3GHz with 150 divider) @ 2T. I have not tried each small increment in between 2.9 and 3GHz to see exactly where it quits passing, but it's somewhere between where it is and 215MHz. You got any suggestions? I'm feeling pretty stuck where I'm at.


----------



## Rains

Quote:


Originally Posted by *playah* 
You did better than I did, when my Mushkin Lvl II v2 TCCD (250.00) died they replaced them with a 40.00 set of ram, swore right then I would never again buy another set of ram from them

no good







I miss my old tccd ram. I had some OCZ EL DDR400 Platinum Rev. 2 ... It didn't clock nearly as high as I had wanted, but could do 1.5-2-2-5-1t, 400Mhz @ 2.9v, which was epic low latency









@NY_driver: shame you can't do 1t, A64 architecture loves tight timings. Have you tried different slots? Maybe your memory controller only has certain 'lanes' damaged?

Ideally, you would use the dual channel slots *closest* to your CPU, the shorter distance is better for overclocking; however if these don't work, try the other two and see! Also, the stronger ram module should be closer to CPU to allow higher OC.

What's your dram voltage?


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rains*


no good







I miss my old tccd ram. I had some OCZ EL DDR400 Platinum Rev. 2 ... It didn't clock nearly as high as I had wanted, but could do 1.5-2-2-5-1t, 400Mhz @ 2.9v, which was epic low latency









@NY_driver: shame you can't do 1t, A64 architecture loves tight timings. Have you tried different slots? Maybe your memory controller only has certain 'lanes' damaged?

Ideally, you would use the dual channel slots *closest* to your CPU, the shorter distance is better for overclocking; however if these don't work, try the other two and see! Also, the stronger ram module should be closer to CPU to allow higher OC.

What's your dram voltage?


my board allows me to set it up to 2.85v. I'm using slots 1(*closest* to cpu) and 3(I'd use 1 and 2 for dual channel),.......I just realized I could actually try slots 3 and 4 for dual channel...I never even thought of that. I'm going to try it now.

+1 Rep for you Rains even if it doesn't work, no one else thought of that(or suggested it anyways)








EDIT: it didn't work...oh well it was worth a shot.


----------



## ny_driver

will it be ok to put OS on a 40GB IDE and use an 80GB IDE for storage of d\\l material. BO told me not to put OS on an IDE and use my SATA for storage because it will slow things down a lot, but I only have 2 IDE drives for this other system so will that work out alright?. Thanks for the input.


----------



## Blitz6804

If you only have IDE drives to work with, you should make sure you use the fastest drive you can in terms of spin speed with the largest cache available for your operating system drive. That is, if one is a 5400 RPM and the other is a 7200 RPM, go for the latter. If one is a 1 MB cache and the other is a 2 MB cache, go with the latter. If SATA is available, you want the OS on that SATA drive if at all possible.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


If you only have IDE drives to work with, you should make sure you use the fastest drive you can in terms of spin speed with the largest cache available for your operating system drive. That is, if one is a 5400 RPM and the other is a 7200 RPM, go for the latter. If one is a 1 MB cache and the other is a 2 MB cache, go with the latter. If SATA is available, you want the OS on that SATA drive if at all possible.


well all three are 7200 RPMs, but the 80 has a 8MB cache and the other 2 have only 2MB cache. Is that going to make a huge difference to put the OS on 1 of the 40s?


----------



## Blitz6804

It could. Does your motherboard support an IDE RAID? If so, put the OS on the 40s in RAID 0.


----------



## ny_driver

It does not mention support for ide-raid in the manual at all, just SATA raid.


----------



## Blitz6804

If it does not (which I thought the nForce3 250 chipset did) your best bet would be to use the 8 MB for the OS and use the 2 MBs for data. It might not make a HUGE difference however. I know myself that putting Windows 7 on a 2 MB SATA-150 drive yielded a 5.1 in the Windows Experience Index. The highest a single drive can get is 5.9 however, so take that with a grain of salt.


----------



## ny_driver

I just plan to overclock it some and use it for downloads, so the speed at which it does things is not going to be that important. What does the cache do anyways?


----------



## Blitz6804

Cache, in theory, stores data that is used commonly so that hard drive access time is shorter. I heard that in the long run, the effect is relatively de minimis, but it never hurts to be sure.

If you want to test your hard drives empirically, give HD Tach a shot. It will give you the burst rate and average read of any drive you want. Install both the 80 GB and a 40 GB in your rig, format both, and then give HD Tach a whirl. Use Windows on the faster drive, an use the slower drive just for storing data. I personally use my 80 GB SATAs (with the 2 MB cache) only for backup purposes. One stays in my rig as a live backup, the other is in a fireproof safe.


----------



## ny_driver

ok that's what I'll do, I'll install and test both. Thanks for the suggestions. It doesn't make any sense to me to use the smaller drive for storage, it kind of defeats the purpose. I guess I could just partition the 80 if it turns out to be way faster.


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, you would use both 40 GBs for storage if need be. A common practice (for those who have money) is to "short stoke" a drive. (Props to Pioneerisloud who told me this practice.) You get a larger drive which will have (generally) more platters, and then format only some of the drive. For example, if the drive you have starts to loose speed after about 45 GB or so, you make the partition stop at 40 GB, and just leave the other 40 GB laying fallow. In theory, your drive will be faster then.


----------



## ny_driver

could I hook the other 40gb to the same ribbon cable that my cd burner drive is on?


----------



## Blitz6804

It is generally a bad idea to mix hard drives and optical drives. However, I have done it myself for a stop-gap thing. I believe you need to have the hard drive as the primary and the optical as the secondary.


----------



## ny_driver

I'm having some problems getting to windows on this HD that is already loaded, but I can see that my board supports IDE-RAID (I really don't even know what that is though)









Flashing my BIOS is the first thing I intend to do, before reformatting the drives and installing anything. Then I need to figure out the RAID thing.







So much fun.


----------



## redhat_ownage

nf3 raid is cake.
turn it on in the bios and select what drives you want included in the raid save settings and reboot and enter the nvraid bios and create your raid.

and press F6 when prompted by windows to install raid drivers


----------



## ny_driver

I don't really see any point in setting up a RAID-0, and besides I read you should have 2 identical drives to do it. And for RAID-0+1 you need 4 drives.
I just don't see the benefit.


----------



## ny_driver

want to see what I did this morning, so that I can hook my x1950pro and my SATA drive to Neo2 Platinum #2 and test the FPS in GTR2 using my 3700+ and then compare the results to my single channel Opty170 system? I'll post results later.

Man, if I had a sled I'd be long gone.......it is STILL snowing here.









http://www.overclock.net/power-suppl...t-2-4-pin.html

EDIT: I'm so dumb, I could have just swapped out the cpu. I got everything hooked up then realized that only 1 PSU has a connector for a SATA drive, so I unhooked everything except the SATA drive and the DVD player from PSU #1, connected the SATA and DVD to system #2.......which in theory should have worked fine. But, for some reason PSU #1 would not power on by jumpering the pins(pin 14[the green one]and any ground). It powered that way the day I got it, so I haven't figured out why it didn't work yet.

I then hooked everything back up in system #1, hit the button, and it fired right up.







.......anyways, I'm just going to swap out cpus after I get out of the shower.

I just shoveled the heaviest snow there is, about 6 inches all melted down to slush...and the end of the 20' wide driveway was 1' deep and plowed in. I wasn't happy...I threw a lot of it right back in the street, only downstream from my driveway so hopefully I won't have to shovel the same snow out again.:swearing:


----------



## Blitz6804

Dude... sent it here! I have only gotten 4" between Thursday and Friday. If I have another 2" now, I would be surprised. It is snowing, but not really accumulating. (Granted, prior to it starting to snow Thursday, we had a basal snow depth of five inches, so now it is about 10".) Granted... I think the dog would be happier with less (the top of his shoulder is 11", his forehead is 15") I want MORE MORE MORE!


----------



## ny_driver

Excerpt from previous post so it's easy to see and compare the results with tonights tests.

EDIT:OK here is the results after 2 races with each configuration at Monaco at with 10 opponents....

2010-02-25 08:37:17 - GTR2([email protected] [email protected] 2.5-3-2-5-1T)
Frames: 13477 - Time: 300000ms - Avg: 44.923 - Min: 28 - Max: 81

2010-02-25 08:46:24 - GTR2
Frames: 14976 - Time: 300000ms - Avg: 49.920 - Min: 23 - Max: 84

2010-02-25 09:35:39 - GTR2([email protected] [email protected] 3-3-3-8-2T)
Frames: 13103 - Time: 300000ms - Avg: 43.677 - Min: 28 - Max: 65

2010-02-25 09:52:43 - GTR2
Frames: 14042 - Time: 300000ms - Avg: 46.807 - Min: 28 - Max: 65

Tonights results:

([email protected] sticks dual channel @ 216.7MHz 2.5-3-2-5-2T)

2003-01-01 00:29:26 - GTR2
Frames: 15112 - Time: 300000ms - Avg: 50.373 - Min: 25 - Max: 84

2003-01-01 00:37:41 - GTR2
Frames: 14888 - Time: 300000ms - Avg: 49.627 - Min: 26 - Max: 84

I'd say it runs better on the 3700+ with dual channel memory than the Opty 170 with single channel.


----------



## Blitz6804

Which to me would imply GTR2 is not optimized for dual-core CPUs. A way to test this: either use HAL settings to disable a core on the Opteron 170, or run the program, drop the affinity to only one core, and then try it. If the FPS stays the same, GTR2 does not use the second core.


----------



## Tator Tot

He may also need the AMD Dual Core Optimizer installed as well. Considering he is on XP, without this program installed, it can cause some games not to take advantage of dual cores.

Namely, Source Games with the "Multi Core Rendering" option.


----------



## ny_driver

GTR2 was not designed with dual core in mind......however, I know from watching core temp on my 2nd monitor that it does run on both cores pretty equally. Initially it only ran on 1 core....I had to set the affinity to run on both.
I'm pretty sure that a dual core cpu running in dual channel, will be better than this 3700+, especially with 4GB of RAM. You know I'll test and find out for sure when I get my new cpu in a couple weeks.

EDIT: I have the dual core optimizer installed.

EDIT: and now that I think about it, I was using 4GB of RAM while testing last night, so it's not even a fair comparison. Too much testing yesterday....I'm losing my mind


----------



## ny_driver

I'd like to get my mod bios modded so that it has half multipliers......10.5 specifically. I can manually set it to 10.5 using this little program called A64Info-beta. The program works good, but there's no option to launch a profile at start-up. So obviously having the 10.5 available in the BIOS would be best. In case anyone wants it here it is.

http://files.aoaforums.com/I3150-A64Info-beta.exe.html

EDIT: looks like there is a lot of stuff at that site, too. I haven't even begun to look around.


----------



## Blitz6804

The easiest thing to do would be set it to 10x in the BIOS, and then use CrystalCPUID on boot to set it to 10.5x.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
The easiest thing to do would be set it to 10x in the BIOS, and then use CrystalCPUID on boot to set it to 10.5x.

You the man blitz! More rep for you. I have that program installed, and in my "TOOLS" toolbar, I just didn't know what to use it for. Sweet. I might go get some beer to celebrate.









EDIT: now I can have 2.73GHz and DDR420...lovin' it! Do the half multipliers work on a dual core, too?


----------



## Blitz6804

I used it myself when I ran a K8. (Toledo and Brisbane.) All three boards in question (at the time) could not leave Cool 'n' Quiet enabled with anything other than the stock multiplier. So I turned off C'n'Q and installed CrystalCPUID to use the Crystal-n-Quiet function. C-n-Q is far more customizable than C'n'Q, and permits you to downclock/undervolt regardless if the board supports it.

When I swung to a K10.5, I had to stop using it (since it did not work) but I subsequently found K10Stat. Now, my motherboard (via BIOS update) can use C'n'Q together with a non-stock multiplier.


----------



## ny_driver

I don't use cool and quiet....I like it cool and loud, at least until I can afford to build a brand new system, which I think will include a nice liquid cooling system. Everything in my house has dust from sanding joint compound out in the front hall, that stuff gets everywhere. You should see the fins of my heastsink I took out yesterday, and it's only been a week or so since I blew all the dust out of it.
Anyways my case sucks everything in, I've gotta lose the fans eventually.

EDIT: how do I make that run automatically at start-up?


----------



## Blitz6804

With XP, just drop a shortcut in the startup folder. Edit the shortcut so it appears as follows:

"C:\\CrystalCPUID\\CrystalCPUID.exe" /CQ /HIDE


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
With XP, just drop a shortcut in the startup folder. Edit the shortcut so it appears as follows:

"C:\\CrystalCPUID\\CrystalCPUID.exe" /CQ /HIDE

Thanks again blitz.







I didn't really understand what you meant by edit the shortcut.... so I just dropped it in the folder, rebooted and it worked fine.
That program adds a lot of possibilities to overclocking. I'm glad you told me how to use it.


----------



## Blitz6804

Right-click the shortcut and hit "Properties." In "Target," it should currently say something like "C:\\CrystalCPUID\\CrystalCPUID.exe" or "C:\\Program Files\\CrystalCPUID\\CrystalCPUID.exe" or wherever you installed it. If you type /CQ /HIDE after the quotations more, that will automatically enable C-n-Q upon boot and minimize it to your systray rather than leaving the window open.


----------



## redhat_ownage

got an email from DFI about my nF3's blown up northbridge

Quote:



Dear Sir,

nVIDIA(r) nForce3 250Gb
nVIDIA(r) nForce3 Ultra
http://www.nvidia.com/page/nf3.html
According to nVidia SPEC., they are pin to pin compatible, theory you just need to find one of them to replace on LP UT nF3 250GB.
But for the replace, it needs a conscientious and careful process, we recommend that you do the RMA, let DFI do the service for you and it is charge 25~30US dollar.

Have a nice day!
DFI Tech Support


so they want my money...


----------



## ny_driver

I have that Neo2 you can have if you are going to try to do it yourself.








EDIT: I also have a nice heatgun, so I could probably remove the northbridge and send just that. I could probably cover the shipping on just the NB if you want.


----------



## redhat_ownage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I have that Neo2 you can have if you are going to try to do it yourself.










looks like i will take you up on that offer


----------



## ny_driver

Do you want the whole board minus the bios chip or just the northbridge? PM me with your info.









EDIT: she's all packed up and ready to go. I should be able to ship it out cheapest by using UPS. And I should be able to get it out tomorrow, but Wednesday at the latest. I only took the BIOS chip and the jumpers off, and there's no cooling unit on the NB because 1 of the boards I got had a passive cooler, so I tool the fan off the damaged one.


----------



## ny_driver

....but after looking at it vs. my current card I don't think it would be much of an upgrade. Both cards are 256-bit GDDR3 with 512mb memory, the only differences that I see are that the HD 3850 supports dx10, and of course the slightly higher clocks. Looks like the HD has a 668 core and 828 memory, while my card has 590 core and 770 memory. What's that going to get me...a couple FPS? In the slightly older games I play dx10 doesn't even matter, and I wouldn't be able to play the very newest racing games on this system no matter what I did to it, I don't think.

......I'd like some other opinions on this subject if you have a minute.

Thanks guys









EDIT: maybe the HD3850 could be overclocked though. The one I have cannot.....it's factory overclocked to the limits.


----------



## Blitz6804

Having went from a Visiontek x1950 XGE (AGP) to a Sapphire HD 3850 (AGP), I would say it is in fact a pretty decent upgrade if you can believe it. However, I was running a 1920x1200 monitor; lower resolutions will see a much smaller improvement. Supposedly the HD 4670 AGP will trade blows with the HD 3850 AGP depending on your game and settings.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Having went from a Visiontek x1950 XGE (AGP) to a Sapphire HD 3850 (AGP), I would say it is in fact a pretty decent upgrade if you can believe it. However, I was running a 1920x1200 monitor; lower resolutions will see a much smaller improvement. Supposedly the HD 4670 AGP will trade blows with the HD 3850 AGP depending on your game and settings.


Thanks for the info. blitz
The thing I saw with the agp 4000 series(well, what I saw at newegg) was that they are only 128-bit vs. the 256-bit of the 3850.
How much difference does that make...or where would that become apparent in gaming? 
EDIT:I was looking at this card at newegg, and it looks pretty powerful except the 128-bit worries me. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814161284 
reEDIT: but the 4670 has 1GB instead of 512mb of memory...that's probably how it evens out or is better even.


----------



## Blitz6804

If I remember right, if you run high anti-aliasing, you go the HD 4670. If you do not run much anti-aliasing, you go the HD 3850. Do not quote me on that.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Thanks for the info. blitz
The thing I saw with the agp 4000 series(well, what I saw at newegg) was that they are only 128-bit vs. the 256-bit of the 3850.
*How much difference does that make...or where would that become apparent in gaming? *
EDIT:I was looking at this card at newegg, and it looks pretty powerful except the 128-bit worries me. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814161284 
reEDIT: but the 4670 has 1GB instead of 512mb of memory...that's probably how it evens out or is better even.


 The larger memory and bus will be a lot more noticeable especially at higher resolutions. The lower your res the less noticeable it'll become.

OT: Did you get my PM? Was wondering if you wanted that fan.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


If I remember right, if you run high anti-aliasing, you go the HD 4670. If you do not run much anti-aliasing, you go the HD 3850. Do not quote me on that.


 I really don't even know what AA is for, but I always run it at 6x and AF at 16x...I always try to have everything at highest settings.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


The larger memory and bus will be a lot more noticeable especially at higher resolutions. The lower your res the less noticeable it'll become.

OT: Did you get my PM? Was wondering if you wanted that fan.


And I'd be more than happy to race at a higher resolution. I currently use 1152x864....and I will be getting a nice 23" LCD pretty soon, so I should probably go with the 4670 huh?


----------



## Blitz6804

Here is a review of an HD 4650 AGP, which is slightly slower than an HD 4670 AGP. I would look harder for a review of the HD 4670 AGP, but I am presently writing a 10-page paper. You will notice that depending on the game and resolution settings, even an HD 46*5*0 AGP can beat an HD 3850 AGP at times. It seems however, according to Tom's Hardware, the HD 3850 AGP is the better card if you can get it. (Though, I think the HD 4650 AGP would be lower power and heat.)


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Here is a review of an HD 4650 AGP, which is slightly slower than an HD 4670 AGP. I would look harder for a review of the HD 4670 AGP, but I am presently writing a 10-page paper. You will notice that depending on the game and resolution settings, even an HD 46*5*0 AGP can beat an HD 3850 AGP at times. It seems however, according to Tom's Hardware, the HD 3850 AGP is the better card if you can get it. (Though, I think the HD 4650 AGP would be lower power and heat.)

Since I run everything with 6x AA/16x AF the 4670 takes the cake after reading several reviews. Plus I can get it new from the egg in case I have problems. You were right about the AA setting. Thanks for the help deciding on my next upgrade.


----------



## Blitz6804

One small problem: Remember if you go for anything on the AGP bus, you forestall Vista or Windows 7 with a dual-core processor. While this is not a major deal if you only want DirectX 9 games, remember, you will not be able to play DirectX 10. If you have the ability, I would suggest you look into something equipped with the nForce 4 Ultra or SLI chipset. The HD 5670 PCIe will beat an HD 4670 PCIe handily, and cost about $30 less than the HD 4670 PCIe. Not to mention DirectX 11 (and Windows 7) will be available to you.


----------



## ny_driver

I guess I may not even get a new video card. I'm first going to install my Opty 180 with my current setup and see what it does. But just for the sake of discussion, are there any boards with the chipsets you mentioned that have both socket 939 and agp? I wasn't planning to go PCI-E or switch OS until I build a whole new system.

EDIT: are you saying that even if the agp card supports DX10 that with a dual core cpu I won't be able to play DX10 games. I think I read something about that the other day, that you have to disable 1 core to do it with the nF3 chipset. I don't care about Vista or 7, just racing games. Maybe that's why when I tried the newest NFS demos they just weren't playable. I should try them with this single core while it's in there, but my card is only DX9, so maybe not.


----------



## Blitz6804

In order to use DirectX 10 or 11, you must use Vista or Windows 7. As I mentioned the other day, in order to use a Dual Core CPU and an ATi graphics card in Vista or Windows 7 you must not be on an nForce 3 chipset. The VIA an SiS chipset boards work properly. Using an nForce 3 chipset with an nVidia graphics card works properly. Using an nForce 3 chipset with a single-core CPU works properly. Aside of DiRT 2, I cannot think of any racing game that would require greater than DirectX 9 at present. DiRT 2 supports DirectX 11.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
In order to use DirectX 10 or 11, you must use Vista or Windows 7. As I mentioned the other day, in order to use a Dual Core CPU and an ATi graphics card in Vista or Windows 7 you must not be on an nForce 3 chipset. The VIA an SiS chipset boards work properly. Using an nForce 3 chipset with an nVidia graphics card works properly. Using an nForce 3 chipset with a single-core CPU works properly. Aside of DiRT 2, I cannot think of any racing game that would require greater than DirectX 9 at present. DiRT 2 supports DirectX 11.

ohhh...so it's xp that doesn't support DX10 or 11 at all...interesting.

Very good and concise explanation.

I pretty much have never played a game less than a couple years old anyways, so I should be good for a couple more years.


----------



## N2Gaming

Dirt 2 ftw


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Dirt 2 ftw










downloading the demo now.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

ny_driver, ever tried rFactor?

Easily my favorite racing sim ever.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


downloading the demo now.










LOL that's all I have played so far.









Edit: he lives, the txtr lives. Hi Joe


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


ny_driver, ever tried rFactor?

Easily my favorite racing sim ever.










nope, not yet but I have heard nothing but good things about it. I haven't wanted to play anything but GTR2 F1 2009 mod for weeks now. It's pretty sweet. I've got my FF dialed in nicely, and have figured out how to make the AI drive like real people. I really like open wheel racing the best I think. I have a nice GPL installation with all the bells and whistles on 5 cd's here, I just haven't re-installed it. Do you race online?

EDIT: stilllllllllllllllll downloading, only .35 GB left









EDIT:WOWWWWWW.......almost done downloading and my computer rebooted itself. Hmmmm....I guess that's why it's recommended to run stability tests for many hours. Weird how that's the first time it's done that, at the current settings. And not even doing anything demanding. Firefox didn't remember anything either, like it usually does when the system crashes. 
Must be my GTR2 install was getting jealous...









3 possibilities the way I see it:

1- too high overclock
2- not enough voltage
3- HT link too high at 1040(I read it maxes out at ~1050).....now lowered to 3x


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
LOL that's all I have played so far.









Edit: he lives, the txtr lives. Hi Joe

Oh yeah. The Deadman lives, baby.

Just been busy (still am, actually







) and occupied with some health issues, but I do peek in now and then.









I never have to worry about y'all here.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
nope, not yet but I have heard nothing but good things about it. I haven't wanted to play anything but GTR2 F1 2009 mod for weeks now. It's pretty sweet. I've got my FF dialed in nicely, and have figured out how to make the AI drive like real people. I really like open wheel racing the best I think. I have a nice GPL installation with all the bells and whistles on 5 cd's here, I just haven't re-installed it. Do you race online?

EDIT: stilllllllllllllllll downloading, only .35 GB left









EDIT:WOWWWWWW.......almost done downloading and my computer rebooted itself. Hmmmm....I guess that's why it's recommended to run stability tests for many hours. Weird how that's the first time it's done that, at the current settings. And not even doing anything demanding. Firefox didn't remember anything either, like it usually does when the system crashes.
Must be my GTR2 install was getting jealous...









Yeesh. Weird, ny_driver. Just like that, it rebooted? Was the DL completed sans corruption/problems?

I gotta try that F1 2009 mod for GTR2 sometime.







I LOVE open-wheel single-seater racing (F1 is my first love, of course). I just reinstalled rFactor last night, and have got a few nights of reinstalling mods/tracks/plugins/etc for it ahead of me.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Yeesh. Weird, ny_driver. Just like that, it rebooted? Was the DL completed sans corruption/problems?

I gotta try that F1 2009 mod for GTR2 sometime.







I LOVE open-wheel single-seater racing (F1 is my first love, of course). I just reinstalled rFactor last night, and have got a few nights of reinstalling mods/tracks/plugins/etc for it ahead of me.









not quite done(.2 GB left).......







F1 rules...do you ever race online?


----------



## ny_driver

this is the HS & fan I am currently using
http://www.madshrimps.be/?action=get...96&articID=399
In the article it says it can run at ~5200 rpm. Well with it hooked to a manual fan controller the most I can get out of it is ~2500 rpm. When I hook it directly to the cpu fan header it runs at ~2800 rpm. My NB fan, however, constantly runs at ~5200 rpm. What if I hooked the cpu fan to the NB fan header, and the NB fan to something else.(I know I will need to have something hooked to cpu fan header) Do you think the NB fan really needs the fan running that fast....does the NB usually run hot?









EDIT: maybe I could hook it back to the fan controller and just snip the blue wire...what do you think?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


not quite done(.2 GB left).......







F1 rules...do you ever race online?


I used to, but haven't done it in a while. A couple of years ago, in fact, Blitzy and pio (pioneerisloud) and I used to race against each other on RACE07. Those were fun times.







I've submitted hotlaps on GTR Evolution on the Nordschleife, as well. There was a time when my hotlaps were in the top 15 listed.









Haven't even played a racing game for a few months now.









I take it you go racing online.


----------



## Blitz6804

The heatsink has a temperature sensor to only spin up when needed. This is to prevent ear bleeding, Delta brand fans can be a touch (only a touch?) loud. That your fan controller only gets 2500 RPM while your motherboard gives it 2800 RPM leads me to believe the fan controller is not strong enough. How many watts can it handle?


----------



## Rains

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


this is the HS & fan I am currently using
http://www.madshrimps.be/?action=get...96&articID=399
In the article it says it can run at ~5200 rpm. Well with it hooked to a manual fan controller the most I can get out of it is ~2500 rpm. When I hook it directly to the cpu fan header it runs at ~2800 rpm. My NB fan, however, constantly runs at ~5200 rpm. What if I hooked the cpu fan to the NB fan header, and the NB fan to something else.(I know I will need to have something hooked to cpu fan header) Do you think the NB fan really needs the fan running that fast....does the NB usually run hot?









EDIT: maybe I could hook it back to the fan controller and just snip the blue wire...what do you think?


I think speed is determined by the fan itself moreso than which header it's hooked up to.

I had an ... nforce3? gigabyte board [that I didn't overly like] with a stupidly fast, loud nb fan. I pulled the fan plug out and ran it that way while OCing for the better part of a year. It's still alive and kicking today









EDIT: or, a better solution would be Zalman has a passive NB heatsink I have used before. Blue, and effective: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product...82E16835118214


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I used to, but haven't done it in a while. A couple of years ago, in fact, Blitzy and pio (pioneerisloud) and I used to race against each other on RACE07. Those were fun times.







I've submitted hotlaps on GTR Evolution on the Nordschleife, as well. There was a time when my hotlaps were in the top 15 listed.









Haven't even played a racing game for a few months now.









I take it you go racing online.










I haven't in awhile...I occasionally go run NFS5 Porsche Unleashed online. Used to race GPL online, but I am slow. It's still fun racing with people you know, though.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


The heatsink has a temperature sensor to only spin up when needed. This is to prevent ear bleeding, Delta brand fans can be a touch (only a touch?) loud. That your fan controller only gets 2500 RPM while your motherboard gives it 2800 RPM leads me to believe the fan controller is not strong enough. How many watts can it handle?


I have no idea...it came with a 120mm silverstone FM121, which says on the box, now that I look, 800-2400rpm range.....I bought a 80mm vantec tornado from BO today for it anyways.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rains*


I think speed is determined by the fan itself moreso than which header it's hooked up to.

I had an ... nforce3? gigabyte board [that I didn't overly like] with a stupidly fast, loud nb fan. I pulled the fan plug out and ran it that way while OCing for the better part of a year. It's still alive and kicking today









EDIT: or, a better solution would be Zalman has a passive NB heatsink I have used before. Blue, and effective: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product...82E16835118214


I have a passive cooler/HS that came with 1 of the Neo2's I have....I can't believe it could keep it as cool as an active one @ 5200rpm. Must be the NB doesn't get that hot. I have pretty darn good air-flow, maybe I'll try the passive cooler tomorrow, and hook cpu fan to NB header to see what happens. The fan is suppose to control it's own speed based on temperature, but it never changes.


----------



## Blitz6804

I had an FM121. The fan controller it came with was not enough to power the fan it came with.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I had an FM121. The fan controller it came with was not enough to power the fan it came with.


Defective unit then. The Controller had enough power for the fan.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I had an FM121. The fan controller it came with was not enough to power the fan it came with.


I have my FM121 wired directly to a 12v...it's the main side intake, blowing on my video card and the bottom of my cpu cooler, and it moves a lot of air.


----------



## Blitz6804

Maybe Tator Tot. Even with the knob at its highest setting, the RPMs were about 80% of what they were plugged straight into a power source. With two of the controllers.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Maybe Tator Tot. Even with the knob at its highest setting, the RPMs were about 80% of what they were plugged straight into a power source. With two of the controllers.

99.9% just a bad controller.

I have an FN121, and it's got the same RPM Output (spliced wire to read on my FC5) on both my FC5 as the power source, and the back Nob.


----------



## Blitz6804

Two bad controllers then. Quality control fail?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Two bad controllers then. Quality control fail?


I can say for a fact that Silverstone has a QC fail on that fan series.

Vapor's huge fan reviews got 2 defective, 2 DOA, and 1 under-performing FN121.

And I had 2 DOA FN121's before my third was good.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Oh yeah. The Deadman lives, baby.

Just been busy (still am, actually







) and occupied with some health issues, but I do peek in now and then.









I never have to worry about y'all here.










 I hope all is well with you.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I gotta try that F1 2009 mod for GTR2 sometime.







I LOVE open-wheel single-seater racing (F1 is my first love, of course). I just reinstalled rFactor last night, and have got a few nights of reinstalling mods/tracks/plugins/etc for it ahead of me.










 I'm going to have to check out rFactor. I, like N2, have been playing the Dirt 2 demo and just checking periodically for it to go on sale.

Do you have an opinion about Grid?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I hope all is well with you.









Yo, B.O.! Things could be better, but they could also be a lot worse than they are right now.







All things considered, I'm reasonably okay. Thanks.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I'm going to have to check out rFactor. I, like N2, have been playing the Dirt 2 demo and just checking periodically for it to go on sale.

Do you have an opinion about Grid?

rFactor will really appeal to you if you like your racing sims to be closer to reality than an arcade-style of sensibility, in my opinion. Plus, given the game's sheer scope for accepting mods (it's essentially a platform for hosting mods to the game, so that you can drive an astounding variety of car types and circuit types), the replay value is potentially limitless.

Grid: A very pretty game, but far too unrealistic for me to truly enjoy. It's certainly one of the best-looking driving/racing games I've ever seen, but I would always assign a higher priority to realism instead of tilting the balance towards good graphics. But hey, some people prefer the eye candy, so it's all good.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
.
I have a passive cooler/HS that came with 1 of the Neo2's I have....I can't believe it could keep it as cool as an active one @ 5200rpm. Must be the NB doesn't get that hot. I have pretty darn good air-flow, maybe I'll try the passive cooler tomorrow, and hook cpu fan to NB header to see what happens. The fan is suppose to control it's own speed based on temperature, but it never changes.

Well I tried my little experiment, and that cpu fan speed does not change. What a waste of energy. I don't think there is a temperature sensor in the fan like there is "suppose" to be.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
I can say for a fact that Silverstone has a QC fail on that fan series.

My first one died after three months. The second one lasted until I sold it.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Yo, B.O.! Things could be better, but they could also be a lot worse than they are right now.







All things considered, I'm reasonably okay. Thanks.









In the words of the late George Carlin: "I am not unwell today."


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Yo, B.O.! Things could be better, but they could also be a lot worse than they are right now.







All things considered, I'm reasonably okay. Thanks.










 Well whatever it is that is ailing you, I hope you get better soon.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


rFactor will really appeal to you if you like your racing sims to be closer to reality than an arcade-style of sensibility, in my opinion. Plus, given the game's sheer scope for accepting mods (it's essentially a platform for hosting mods to the game, so that you can drive an astounding variety of car types and circuit types), the replay value is potentially limitless.

Grid: A very pretty game, but far too unrealistic for me to truly enjoy. It's certainly one of the best-looking driving/racing games I've ever seen, but I would always assign a higher priority to realism instead of tilting the balance towards good graphics. But hey, some people prefer the eye candy, so it's all good.










 I like sims more so than arcade style racing, but I hate it wen sims get so technical that it takes away some fun. I mean in the car setup area. Downforce angles of the spoilers and so on is fine, but once you start getting in to thing liks trim and yaw, it's like









As for grid, I was checking out the screen shots and it did look pretty nice. But I'm leery of games, especially racing ones, that don't offer a demo. 
I did buy Dirt 1, it was cheap on steam: $10. So I figured wth, why not?

It's good to hear from you Joe!


----------



## ny_driver

When I switched those fans around earlier everything worked normally, until my cat jumped up on the computer table(which is the the normal path up to the food dish) and the system shut itself down. I thought that somehow the power cord got wiggled or something, but that was not the case. I then hit the power button and the whole system powered on for like 3-5 seconds and shut itself off again. So I switched the fans back to the way they were hooked up before, but the system continued to act the same way(on for 3-5 seconds and then off).......then I had to leave for a few hours, which I didn't want to do right then, but when I returned it powered right up like normal.









I was planning to do some trouble shooting and start removing components until I figured it out. I wonder what was going on. That is how my first neo2 behaved when I first tried to fire it up....and I thought the PSU was to blame, but I have tested it out and it works great on my moms computer.

Any ideas why it was doing that and now after 4 hours it seems to work fine? I do still have the passive cooler on the NB, but it's certainly not feeling even warm.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well whatever it is that is ailing you, I hope you get better soon.










 This ^^

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


As for grid, I was checking out the screen shots and it did look pretty nice. But I'm leery of games, especially racing ones, that don't offer a demo. 
I did buy Dirt 1, it was cheap on steam: $10. So I figured wth, why not?


I bought GRID at GAMESTOP for $10.00 and love the game. The Gameplay is not much different from Dirt/Dirt2 w/the exception of offroad racing. The Games Grid & Dirt are designed by the same game developers which is Code Masters. If you can get it for $10.00 then I think it would be money well spent. The only thing that urks me when playing online w/people around the world is all the flamers who like to crash you instead of trying to run a clean race. Even though the game does have damage whitch adversly affects drivabilty it still does not stop poor sport racers from flaming on others. I got in a few races w/Pio a while back and had some fun racing him. You may still be able to find a new copy at GAMESTOP for $10.00 if there are any left in your area.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


This ^^

I bought GRID at GAMESTOP for $10.00 and love the game. The Gameplay is not much different from Dirt/Dirt2 w/the exception of offroad racing. The Games Grid & Dirt are designed by the same game developers which is Code Masters. If you can get it for $10.00 then I think it would be money well spent. The only thing that urks me when playing online w/people around the world is all the flamers who like to crash you instead of trying to run a clean race. Even though the game does have damage whitch adversly affects drivabilty it still does not stop poor sport racers from flaming on others. I got in a few races w/Pio a while back and had some fun racing him. You may still be able to find a new copy at GAMESTOP for $10.00 if there are any left in your area.



I have a couple of gamestops close by, I'll have to check them out. Last one I checked though barely had any PC games. It was all console stuff.

Thanks for the suggestion though.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


When I switched those fans around earlier everything worked normally, until my cat jumped up on the computer table(which is the the normal path up to the food dish) and the system shut itself down. I thought that somehow the power cord got wiggled or something, but that was not the case. I then hit the power button and the whole system powered on for like 3-5 seconds and shut itself off again. So I switched the fans back to the way they were hooked up before, but the system continued to act the same way(on for 3-5 seconds and then off).......then I had to leave for a few hours, which I didn't want to do right then, but when I returned it powered right up like normal.









I was planning to do some trouble shooting and start removing components until I figured it out. I wonder what was going on. That is how my first neo2 behaved when I first tried to fire it up....and I thought the PSU was to blame, but I have tested it out and it works great on my moms computer.

Any ideas why it was doing that and now after 4 hours it seems to work fine? I do still have the passive cooler on the NB, but it's certainly not feeling even warm.


You cat probably statically discharged to your rig. My cat actually did this twice in 1 day to my sig rig. And the weird thing is, he discharged right to the power button on my case and both times it caused a BSOD. :swearing: Dang little furball.

The passive coolers actually work VERY well, better than the active cooling solutions; only issue with them is that they're pretty tall so it typically renders one of your PCIe slots useless.


----------



## Blitz6804

Maybe a dying capacitor and the fuzzball is dumb luck ny_driver?


----------



## TestECull

Hey guys, this has me at my wit's end. Noone in PC Games can halp.

I'm trying to run Bioshock 2 on Boot to the Head. Bioshock 1, GRID, GTA IV, anything Source, COD4/6, they all run flawlessly(Or, well, as flawlessly as BttH can run them







), but Bioshock 2 refuses to run properly.

On 191.17 and 195.xx drivers, BS2 decides to acid trip, then hang. When I finally do get it alt-tabbed, there's a driver crash alert in my system tray. On 196.75 drivers, the game just goes black, again with the driver crash in my systray. On the other two drivers, recovering my system was a bit hit-and-miss(Had to hard reset twice), but on 196.75's, it's a near-instantanous alt-tab, no lag, no instability, nothing. Every other game I have on my rig runs just fine, no artifacts, no crashing, nothing out of the norm.

Halp?


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


. 
The passive coolers actually work VERY well, better than the active cooling solutions; only issue with them is that they're pretty tall so it typically renders one of your PCIe slots useless.


The one that came on the neo2 was too tall with my video card, but I managed to pull a low profile one off another board. It was on a via km266 NB on a socket 462 board.. I lapped it before I installed it(mostly because it had cement on the bottom that I couldn't get off with alcohol)...I almost broke the board getting the cooler off.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Maybe a dying capacitor and the fuzzball is dumb luck ny_driver?


I was considering swapping out the mobo, but it's been working fine since I got home. Aside from the fact that it's now failing s&m L2 test(it passes the rest)@ 2.73GHz/1.46v. It passed @ 2.77GHz a couple days ago with the same voltage. I turned the voltage up to 1.49 and it still failed. I turned the cpu speed down a bit and am running prime blend now...and I'm going to keep running it until I get to a point where it will go several hours several hours. Is a dying capacitor something I could fix? (I just gave my spare damaged board to redhat, shipped it yesterday)


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


Hey guys, this has me at my wit's end. Noone in PC Games can halp.

I'm trying to run Bioshock 2 on Boot to the Head. Bioshock 1, GRID, GTA IV, anything Source, COD4/6, they all run flawlessly(Or, well, as flawlessly as BttH can run them







), but Bioshock 2 refuses to run properly.

On 191.17 and 195.xx drivers, BS2 decides to acid trip, then hang. When I finally do get it alt-tabbed, there's a driver crash alert in my system tray. On 196.75 drivers, the game just goes black, again with the driver crash in my systray. On the other two drivers, recovering my system was a bit hit-and-miss(Had to hard reset twice), but on 196.75's, it's a near-instantanous alt-tab, no lag, no instability, nothing. Every other game I have on my rig runs just fine, no artifacts, no crashing, nothing out of the norm.

Halp?


 Just for kicks and giggles try installing an old driver like the 175.19 (or whatever it is for vista]. That was before they did the cuda thing. That was also the last driver that I could run BF2142 without artifacting like mad when using my GSO's. You'll take a frame rate hit, but everything will look nicer. Check out some other games with it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


The one that came on the neo2 was too tall with my video card, but I managed to pull a low profile one off another board. It was on a via km266 NB on a socket 462 board.. I lapped it before I installed it(mostly because it had cement on the bottom that I couldn't get off with alcohol)...I almost broke the board getting the cooler off.









I was considering swapping out the mobo, but it's been working fine since I got home. Aside from the fact that it's now failing s&m L2 test(it passes the rest)@ 2.73GHz/1.46v. It passed @ 2.77GHz a couple days ago with the same voltage. I turned the voltage up to 1.49 and it still failed. I turned the cpu speed down a bit and am running prime blend now...and I'm going to keep running it until I get to a point where it will go several hours several hours. Is a dying capacitor something I could fix? (I just gave my spare damaged board to redhat, shipped it yesterday)










 An L2 failure usually indicates temps being too high. How hot is it getting? This is on your 170 right?


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


An L2 failure usually indicates temps being too high. How hot is it getting? This is on your 170 right?


My 3700+, and the max temps according to HWMonitor are 38c on the core and 50c on the cpu, and that is running prime blend for the last 45 minutes. Earlier running s&m with the cpu a little higher the temps were only a couple degrees higher. The 170 runs great, but only in single channel.

On a side note...looks like my "new" 180 will be here tomorrow.


----------



## ny_driver

Hey wouldn't it be cool if there was a chat box integrated into this thread.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I have a couple of gamestops close by, I'll have to check them out. Last one I checked though barely had any PC games. It was all console stuff.

Thanks for the suggestion though.


 NP & FYI if your going to the store to find out if they have it your doing it wrong. lol

just go to gamestop.com and select pc games then type in grid and then select the pc copy for $9.99 and if your zip is not automatically detected then click on the change zip button and their invintory finder should tell you if and at what location any games your looking for can be found.







I copied a picture to illustrate how it's done.


----------



## redhat_ownage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Hey wouldn't it be cool if there was a chat box integrated into this thread.










ocn has a vent server


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
Hey wouldn't it be cool if there was a chat box integrated into this thread.









That would be cool although the thread certainly gets the job done as is. God knows its helped me more than I could ever give back...

BTW I am looking for a better board for my sig rig, pref dual PCIe slots, if any one has one they are wanting to part with. I would like to upgrade my video card options, although I would still like to stay with an nforce4 chipset and run ATI video cards. I just prefer the configuration GUI or nvidia I guess. Its hard to find a decent priced DFI Lanparty or comprable on ebay etc, so any help would be appreciated.


----------



## theCanadian

If all goes goes according to plan here, I'll be posting a pretty epic S939 revival at a time to be announced. But the plan is already in motion.


















My wallet is not going to like this one


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


If all goes goes according to plan here, I'll be posting a pretty epic S939 revival at a time to be announced. But the plan is already in motion.


















My wallet is not going to like this one


Sweet!


----------



## Blitz6804

There used to be an OCN Chat, but that feature was disabled. There used to be a chat room built into our off-site roster, but Freewebs killed that one. Many of us have at least one instant messaging client. I have every conceivable mainstream one:

AOL Instant Messenger
ICQ
Facebook (never on)
Google Talk (always on)
Myspace (never on)
Skype (never on)
Steam
Windows Live Messenger
Vent (never on)
X-Fire (often on)
Yahoo Instant Messenger


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


There used to be an OCN Chat, but that feature was disabled. There used to be a chat room built into our off-site roster, but Freewebs killed that one. Many of us have at least one instant messaging client. I have every conceivable mainstream one:

AOL Instant Messenger
ICQ
Facebook (never on)
Google Talk (always on)
Myspace (never on)
Skype (never on)
Steam
Windows Live Messenger
Vent (never on)
X-Fire (often on)
Yahoo Instant Messenger


LOL









I received the "defective" memory today. They were all labeled....2 of them said NO POST on their stickers and both of them posted, tested out at everything auto(2-2-2-8) except I switched to 1T. And they each booted windows. The 1 that he said was good was good. And the other 1 which said will post, but bad had errors immediately in memtest. Not sure what I'm going to do now. I have the RMA set up for all 4 of them, and I'd really prefer to get them all replaced.









I'm going to go lap the 180 and think it over.

EDIT: they also tested out at the advertised 2-2-2-6-1T.


----------



## mmmkevinz

hahaha i caught this thread out of the corner of my eye. I'm building a s939 second computer right now. amd athlon 64 3500+ ftw


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
NP & FYI if your going to the store to find out if they have it your doing it wrong. lol

just go to gamestop.com and select pc games then type in grid and then select the pc copy for $9.99 and if your zip is not automatically detected then click on the change zip button and their invintory finder should tell you if and at what location any games your looking for can be found.







I copied a picture to illustrate how it's done.










The nearest gamestop is in the same shopping plaza as the grocery store I go to so going there is just a 100 yard walk.









Went there today (had to get milk) and got Grid and Cryostasis for $20







.


----------



## N2Gaming

@ BO







Now you have a game that I may just be able to play w/out feeling as if I suck and am out of my league playing w/or against you









Let me know if Cryostasis is any good.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


Hey guys, this has me at my wit's end. Noone in PC Games can halp.

I'm trying to run Bioshock 2 on Boot to the Head. Bioshock 1, GRID, GTA IV, anything Source, COD4/6, they all run flawlessly(Or, well, as flawlessly as BttH can run them







), but Bioshock 2 refuses to run properly.

On 191.17 and 195.xx drivers, BS2 decides to acid trip, then hang. When I finally do get it alt-tabbed, there's a driver crash alert in my system tray. On 196.75 drivers, the game just goes black, again with the driver crash in my systray. On the other two drivers, recovering my system was a bit hit-and-miss(Had to hard reset twice), but on 196.75's, it's a near-instantanous alt-tab, no lag, no instability, nothing. Every other game I have on my rig runs just fine, no artifacts, no crashing, nothing out of the norm.

Halp?


TestE, my initial thought is that it's probably a game-specific issue (or, more accurately, an issue triggered by this specific game).

Have other people reported this issue to the game publisher, to your knowledge? Sounds like something that would be fixed by a patch.

Let us know how it shakes out.









@ N2G, B.O.: When I have some time, I'll see if I can race with you guys on Grid. I may not like the game that much, but I may as well play it if I have it, right?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


@ N2G, B.O.: When I have some time, I'll see if I can race with you guys on Grid. I may not like the game that much, but I may as well play it if I have it, right?










That's the spirit


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


@ BO







Now you have a game that I may just be able to play w/out feeling as if I suck and am out of my league playing w/or against you









Let me know if Cryostasis is any good.










 I've heard Cryostasis was kind of a let down, but I figured hey it's only $10 I'll get it anyway.









I'm going to install grid here pretty soon.

I'm going to have to redo my OC on my sig rig though, for some reason it's started locking up since I installed this new SATA DVD combo drive. The last drive I was using was IDE and I had no issues.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


@ N2G, B.O.: When I have some time, I'll see if I can race with you guys on Grid. I may not like the game that much, but I may as well play it if I have it, right?










 Might as well. 
Been playing Dirt for the last couple of days and man it's pretty easy. Even the game was saying that I should keep on increasing the difficulty since I was owning it pretty badly. (I played on the rookie setting since you make more money if you re-race the same event at higher difficulties). It's pretty fun, although I really wish they'd raise the front bumper camera some. It makes it hard to see the upcoming corners.









And I agree, even if you don't like the game all that much, playing against friends always makes even the suckiest games more fun.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I'm going to have to redo my OC on my sig rig though, for some reason it's started locking up since I installed this new SATA DVD combo drive. The last drive I was using was IDE and I had no issues.










Hopefully the Drive is not defective or your not having any PSU issues Possibly the drivers from the IDE drive are conflicting with the SATA dirve. IDK but any things possible no


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


TestE, my initial thought is that it's probably a game-specific issue (or, more accurately, an issue triggered by this specific game).

Have other people reported this issue to the game publisher, to your knowledge? Sounds like something that would be fixed by a patch.

Let us know how it shakes out.










I will. Someone above suggested I try really old drivers, 175's. Finding them was a bear, and they didn't install anyways.

Quote:



@ N2G, B.O.: When I have some time, I'll see if I can race with you guys on Grid. I may not like the game that much, but I may as well play it if I have it, right?











I might just join you guys, who knows. ESPECIALLY if we're doing either 24 Hours of Le Mans or demo derby. I love my Audi R10


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hopefully the Drive is not defective or your not having any PSU issues Possibly the drivers from the IDE drive are conflicting with the SATA dirve. IDK but any things possible no










 Well the thing is that the IDE drive didn't have any drivers. Quite honestly, neither did this SATA drive other than the lightscribe and nero stuff that came with it.








I'm just going to re-do everything and see if I can nail down what exactly is causing my issue.

EDIT: BTW, I'm running my new Seasonic 850w which was really highly rated and I don't see any power fluctuations with it. Seems rock solid.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


I will. Someone above suggested I try really old drivers, 175's. Finding them was a bear, and they didn't install anyways.


 Why didn't they install?









Did you have the right version for your OS? I couldn't find the archived driver @ nvidia's site, but I did find it at guru3d (175.19 Vista 64bit).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


I might just join you guys, who knows. ESPECIALLY if we're doing either 24 Hours of Le Mans or demo derby. I love my Audi R10










 O snap, I'm gonna have to practice up now.


----------



## TestECull

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Why didn't they install?









Did you have the right version for your OS? I couldn't find the archived driver @ nvidia's site, but I did find it at guru3d (175.19 Vista 64bit).

That's where I got them, and I don't know. The 190's don't want to install either, they'll flash my screen like nVidia drivers usually do, then say "Your system has not been modified". Why they do that I don't know.

Quote:

O snap, I'm gonna have to practice up now.


















I'm only on an xBox 360 controller, tho. Semi-manual trans(Auto clutch), and I have a couple of driver's AIDS turned on, I'm not exactly the best driver in GRID. But I sure know how to have fun


----------



## Blitz6804

Well guys, I would try GRiD, but this is what Gamestopo has to say:

No new products found within 100 miles of this ZIP code.

Oh well. Newegg wants almost $30. (-_-)


----------



## TestECull

Steam wants 25 bucks for it last time I checked.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


That's where I got them, and I don't know. The 190's don't want to install either, they'll flash my screen like nVidia drivers usually do, then say "Your system has not been modified". Why they do that I don't know.


 Well that is rather odd.







They should just install right on top of the other ones. Did you try using driver sweeper and all that?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*











I'm only on an xBox 360 controller, tho. Semi-manual trans(Auto clutch), and I have a couple of driver's AIDS turned on, I'm not exactly the best driver in GRID. But I sure know how to have fun










 That's all I've got too. For some reason I don't like playing driving games with a steering wheel. I prefer a regular controller, actually the PS one but the Xbox 360 one will do just fine too.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Well guys, I would try GRiD, but this is what Gamestopo has to say:

No new products found within 100 miles of this ZIP code.

Oh well. Newegg wants almost $30. (-_-)


 Man what a rip, it's $24.99 on steam. Will gamestop ship it?


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well that is rather odd.







They should just install right on top of the other ones. Did you try using driver sweeper and all that?


That just leaves me with a 640x480 display.







They still give me that error.

It is really wierd, and like I said this exact copy of the game runs fine on a friend's rig.

Quote:



That's all I've got too. For some reason I don't like playing driving games with a steering wheel. I prefer a regular controller, actually the PS one but the Xbox 360 one will do just fine too.


Could you bind the start button to pause? It wouldn't do that bind for me, I had to bind that to the POV hat(which I never use). I then bound Start to, I think, change view.


----------



## Blitz6804

A workaround: try using Joy2Key to bind the start button to whatever key pause is. (Escape for most games.) Program nothing else an the other buttons should continue to act like buttons. I personally use my PS2 controller for most games; I will occasionally break out the Sidewinder Force Feedback 2 or a Logitech steering wheel if I am feeling frisky though. Permanently attached to my desk is also a Microsoft Strategic Commander, a must-have for all FPS games, and when I am not too lazy to program it, some RTS games too.

BlackOmega: Gamestopo is not selling the game online; in stores only.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


That just leaves me with a 640x480 display.







They still give me that error.

It is really wierd, and like I said this exact copy of the game runs fine on a friend's rig.


Well that is just weird. I've never had any issues installing older drivers, then again I am on XP. Maybe one of the new service packs for Vista 64 doesn't allow drivers that old. The last official archived driver on Nvidia's site are the 180.xx's.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


Could you bind the start button to pause? It wouldn't do that bind for me, I had to bind that to the POV hat(which I never use). I then bound Start to, I think, change view.


 Dunno haven't installed it yet







. But as soon as I do, I'll let you know. As a matter of fact, I think I'll go and install it right now.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 

BlackOmega: Gamestopo is not selling the game online; in stores only.

I think for the most part they are just selling left over Display games or what was shipped to the store for preorders that never got purchased. Basically what ever is left over and once it's gone it's gone. Ebay is not a bad place for it.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


Could you bind the start button to pause? It wouldn't do that bind for me, I had to bind that to the POV hat(which I never use). I then bound Start to, I think, change view.


 Well the default controls use the start as pause/menu, POV is the r. thumbstick, L. trigger: accel, r. trigger:decel, L button: change view, and the others are gear change and menu controls.

Try resetting them to default 1.


----------



## TestECull

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
A workaround: try using Joy2Key to bind the start button to whatever key pause is. (Escape for most games.) Program nothing else an the other buttons should continue to act like buttons. I personally use my PS2 controller for most games; I will occasionally break out the Sidewinder Force Feedback 2 or a Logitech steering wheel if I am feeling frisky though. Permanently attached to my desk is also a Microsoft Strategic Commander, a must-have for all FPS games, and when I am not too lazy to program it, some RTS games too.


I have xPadder, it does the same thing. I'll see if that will work.

Wierd that you have a seperate controller for FPS games. I've never had any issues using WSAD + neighboring keys for controlling things. Usually, W = forward, S = RUN AWAY, A = RUN AWAY SIDEWAYS(never used), D = RUN AWAY SIDEWAYS AS WELL(Also never used), R is reload, Q = prev weapon, Shift = CHAERG, Crtl = HIT THE DECK, C = prone if the game supports and Alt = SLOW DOWN. Space makes me go up.










Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Well that is just weird. I've never had any issues installing older drivers, then again I am on XP. Maybe one of the new service packs for Vista 64 doesn't allow drivers that old. The last official archived driver on Nvidia's site are the 180.xx's.

Yeah, it is wierd. I can't seem to install any sort of nVidia driver older than 195. Also, I have absolutely 0 updates installed. SP1 doubles my boot time, makes Windows laggy and unstable, all while not fixing a damn thing, so I don't bother with any of that update nonsense.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Well the default controls use the start as pause/menu, POV is the r. thumbstick, L. trigger: accel, r. trigger:decel, L button: change view, and the others are gear change and menu controls.

Try resetting them to default 1.

I find the default controls rather awkward. Especially the shift up/down buttons. Seriously, who binds them to A and X? It's counter-intuitive. I've found using R1 for downshift and L1 for upshift to be quite intuitive, especially after playing so much Gran Turismo 4(It uses that control layout as well). xPadder may be able to do what I want it to do, tho.

It's funny, I can bind Start to anything else except what 99.99% of people want to bind it to(And, by default, it's bound to).


----------



## Blitz6804

Most racers use R2 / Right trigger for gas, R1 / Right bumper for shift up and the analogs on the left for brake / down shift. Strange that it uses face buttons to shift.

I found with Vista, SP2 restored a lot of the lost speed caused by SP1. Maybe make a backup and then try it?


----------



## N2Gaming

I always remap all my buttons for racers on my logitec duel shock wingman rumblepad


----------



## TestECull

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Most racers use R2 / Right trigger for gas, R1 / Right bumper for shift up and the analogs on the left for brake / down shift. Strange that it uses face buttons to shift.


Yes, it is. That's why I rebound them as I did. I currently use L trigger for braking, L1 for shift up, R Trigger for gas, R1 for shift down. Reason is it's easier for me to remember which way I need to shift if I use a seperate hand for shifting V throttle/brake control. IE, left hand brakes right hand downshifts, right hand accelerates left hand upshifts.

As far as updates...Vista runs flawlessly RTM. I have absolutely 0 bugs in my OS that are bothering me. Therefore, I don't need any updates to fix them, as they're not bothering me in the first place. I'll be going Win 7 soon anyways, whether it's via a new sound card, new rig or Realtek getting their asses in gear and spitting out some 7 drivers for my audio chipset that actually work.


----------



## Blitz6804

I COULD use the keyboard when pressed. However, it is much easier (and more intuitive to me) to use the Strategic Commander. Want to go forward, move your hand forward. Want to strafe left, move your hand left. The advantage is I can do several things at once (upwards of four commands while moving) if I ever really needed to. Keyboard you can do at best three while moving. One or two if your keyboard does not permit more than three keys at once.

This racing discussion reminds me of the old days of racers. I was playing Test Drive (1987) last night and I was reminded of its elegance. Up is gas, down is brake, left is left, right is right. Press the fire button while holding gas to upshift, hit the fire button while holding brake to downshift.


----------



## TestECull

The AI never gives me a reason to use more than two or three keys at once







. Usually, I sit there miles away, crouch, whip out a sniper rifle(Or, if I'm playing as Gordon Freeman, a .357 Magnum) and go nuts. They never see it coming. I especially love doing that in Fallout 3, enemies most people attack at 30 feet with three assault rifle mags I drop from the edge of my draw distance with a single .50 bullet to the face.


----------



## Blitz6804

Sure, but what about games where there is PvP like Call of Duty 4? Crysis? Left 4 Dead? Personally, I found Fable, The Elder Scrolls IV: Oblivion, and Fallout 3 all easier with the StratCom than without. I used to love using with with Rappelz (a freemium MMORPG) but they seem to have blocked it in my protracted absence from the game.


----------



## TestECull

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Sure, but what about games where there is PvP like Call of Duty 4?

Played SP six or seven times, and every second I've ever played it in MP was with, I believe, you and Joe. So yeah, AI doesn't care if I snipe.

Quote:

Crysis?
Crysis has MP? I played the campaign once and haven't touched it since. Ran great on my rig, by the way.

Quote:

Left 4 Dead?
Campaign or I don't play. So again, I'm sniping the AI from crazy long distances.

lol I don't generally find PvP in an FPS to be fun. I usually end up ragequitting.

Quote:

Personally, I found Fable, The Elder Scrolls IV: Oblivion,
Never played any of them. Probably won't play Oblivion if FO3's melee system is anything to go by.

I simply don't find it fun playing against other humans in an FPS. If it isn't fun, I generally don't play it, so you very rarely catch me playing PvP against other humans in an FPS. TF2 is the odd exception, why I find that fun I'll never know.


----------



## BlackOmega

That's crazy talk teste. I used to ONLY play PVP FPS's. At one point in time, I couldn't have cared any less if a game I bought even had a campaign mode; hence, I bought Quake Wars: Enemy Territory.
Now, in my old age, it seems I'm starting to like campaigns more and more. Although, I find a lot of them to be tedious and repetitive.
Mass Effect (both of them) has a really great story line that just draws you in, even though the controls could be a lot better. I want more games like that. RPG/FPS.

And yeah Crysis has multiplayer (crysiswars), it's just kind of ho hum.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I quite enjoyed the story in CoD4 MW's SP mode, actually. Far Cry's story was similarly quite engrossing, as well.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I quite enjoyed the story in CoD4 MW's SP mode, actually. *Far Cry's story was similarly quite engrossing*, as well.










 Oooh, I'll have to try that. I got it with some pack I bought on steam. I have FC2 as well but the story doesn't seem too interesting.

OT: JOE!!!! When'd you put that rig together!!!!! Good taste in boards I see







. You should also head over to the GD70 club, Mastiffman over there has done some quite extensive research, and a lot of trial and error with some good results. Nice build









1 question though, what is the B2 on the 965?


----------



## TestECull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


That's crazy talk teste. I used to ONLY play PVP FPS's. At one point in time, I couldn't have cared any less if a game I bought even had a campaign mode; hence, I bought Quake Wars: Enemy Territory. 
Now, in my old age, it seems I'm starting to like campaigns more and more. Although, I find a lot of them to be tedious and repetitive. 
Mass Effect (both of them) has a really great story line that just draws you in, even though the controls could be a lot better. I want more games like that. RPG/FPS.

And yeah Crysis has multiplayer (crysiswars), it's just kind of ho hum.


I simply don't find it fun to play against people that have nothing better to do than to treat a video game as if someone were going to shoot them in the head in real life if they failed. It's not a big suprize that I always find these types playing that type of game, whether it be CSS or COD. It just frustrates me, I find it not-fun, so I don't play it.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


I simply don't find it fun to play against people that have nothing better to do than to treat a video game as if someone were going to shoot them in the head in real life if they failed. It just frustrates me, I find it not-fun, so I don't play it.


 That made me lol.









I've been playing multiplayer FPS's for a long time, since before CS







. So they come naturally to me, and for the most part I do excel at them.

Although I have to agree with you, people that are just too competitive kind of ruin it. I make it a point to make fun of them when I play though. I also hate all of the racism that's associated with them as well. :swearing:

When I was an admin on a server, I didn't even give people any chances. Say anything racist, ban for a day. Do it again, ban for a week. 3rd time, ban forever. Sometimes I wasn't that nice; I have little tolerance for ignorance.


----------



## TestECull

lol I have absolute 0 tolerance on the Gmod server I admin. Anything racist = permaban.

And I'm the softest admin there









But yeah, it makes games not fun, and if games aren't fun I don't play them. TF2 I find fun, but only in short bursts. I can play, and have done so on the past, HL2 and it's episodes from sunup to sundown, but I can't handle more than an hour and a half of TF2 before RQing. I can play L4D(2) for hours on end in campaign, but VS clears me out of the server before it even starts because I know I'm just going to get frustrated.

I guess I'm just wierd like that.


----------



## redhat_ownage

x2 555 BE on the way to my doorstep!!!!!






















omg im soo happy i can toss this crappy comp


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


lol I don't generally find PvP in an FPS to be fun. I usually end up ragequitting.


That is how *my* night usually ends.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


And yeah Crysis has multiplayer (crysiswars), it's just kind of ho hum.


Crysis proper has multiplayer; so few people know about it, but DesertRat, Pioneerisloud, and I play it every once in a blue moon.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Mass Effect (both of them) has a really great story line that just draws you in, even though the controls could be a lot better. I want more games like that. RPG/FPS.


Yeah, I forgot about that game. I originally bought on the 360 when they announced it would never be on PC. I tried playing it, and the controls really chilled me to the game. Id est, I never played it again. Then I saw it in the store for the computer and I had to try it there. (After raging that I was lied to regards exclusivity.) It plays much better on the computer, the Strategic Commander making it all the sweeter.

I use my StratCom to play Gears of War too now that I think about it. A little overkill (since there are so few buttons for Gears of War) but it is nice to make most games have the exact same controls.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


1 question though, what is the B2 on the 965?










I believe that is a typo and should read C2.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I've been playing multiplayer FPS's for a long time, since before CS







. So they come naturally to me, and for the most part I do excel at them.


I have been playing single-player FPSes far longer than multi-player. I have been playing Wolfenstein 3D for as long as I have been using an IBM Clone machine, even on this rig occasionally. (My Commodore Amiga 500 did not have any FPS games.) I had Rise of the Triad too, but never really got into that one. I used to play HalfLife late into the night after that. I did not start multi-player FPS games prior to joining OCN. More often than not, I have more fun in the campaign mode though. The only multi-player gaming was Age of Empires (1, 2) with my family. We first started by having my chuck a massive null modem cable down the stairs to play, back in the day when the only PC with internet access was my dad's on 14.4 Kbps dialup. Later we got the LAN, which made it 50% more fun since my sister could play at the same time as my dad and I.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Yeah, I forgot about that game. I originally bought on the 360 when they announced it would never be on PC. I tried playing it, and the controls really chilled me to the game. Id est, I never played it again. Then I saw it in the store for the computer and I had to try it there. (After raging that I was lied to regards exclusivity.) It plays much better on the computer, the Strategic Commander making it all the sweeter.

I stumbled upon Mass Effect by sheer dumb luck really. There was an awesome special on Steam so I bought it. Out of the most recent games I've played it's by far the most engrossing. The second one is good, but not as good as the first IMO.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I use my StratCom to play Gears of War too now that I think about it. A little overkill (since there are so few buttons for Gears of War) but it is nice to make most games have the exact same controls.
I believe that is a typo and should read C2.

I'm going to have to pick gears of war up, it's looks like a pretty fun game.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I have been playing single-player FPSes far longer than multi-player. I have been playing Wolfenstein 3D for as long as I have been using an IBM Clone machine, even on this rig occasionally. (My Commodore Amiga 500 did not have any FPS games.) I had Rise of the Triad too, but never really got into that one. I used to play HalfLife late into the night after that. I did not start multi-player FPS games prior to joining OCN. More often than not, I have more fun in the campaign mode though. The only multi-player gaming was Age of Empires (1, 2) with my family. We first started by having my chuck a massive null modem cable down the stairs to play, back in the day when the only PC with internet access was my dad's on 14.4 Kbps dialup. Later we got the LAN, which made it 50% more fun since my sister could play at the same time as my dad and I.

I believe that the first game I played competitively online was Quake 2. Then quake 3. I was a beta tester for Return To Castle Wolfenstein, in the beta they had it perfect and then they screwed it up for final release and no one bought it. They had a winner and killed it. Id fail.


----------



## mcoil112

Memory Bus Properties
Bus TypeDDR SDRAM
Bus Width64-bit
DRAM:FSB RatioCPU/12
Real Clock198 MHz (DDR)
Effective Clock396 MHz
Bandwidth3170 MB/s

effective clock???? but mine cant handle more than 200mhz? then already bluescreen?


----------



## ny_driver

here's the dilemma .....I ran s&m and got an L1 failure (which surprised me @ 1.44v)so I immediately decided to shut s&m down, restart it, and retry the test. It passed on the 2nd try. I only did this once, but I am wondering what may have caused that? Maybe a voltage dip on my PSU. I'm open to suggestions. Thanks for the help.

BO- she passed s&m on the 2nd try @ 2.9GHz with 1.44v and max temps of 56/63c.









EDIT: I think this other motherboard is better.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


BO- she passed s&m on the 2nd try @ 2.9GHz with 1.44v and max temps of 56/63c.










 That voltage should be good for Prime stability as well.









On a side note about S&M, I noticed that when testing new overclocks that when I boot up S&M if the green progress bar doesn't appear, 99% of the time the CPU will fail even a short stress test.

For me, it's been pretty consistent with both 939's and this 720 so far.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


as well.








On a side note about S&M, I noticed that when testing new overclocks that when I boot up S&M if the green progress bar doesn't appear, 99% of the time the CPU will fail even a short stress test.

For me, it's been pretty consistent with both 939's and this 720 so far.


Thanks for the tip...that will be very helpful. That may have happened(EDIT: numerous







times) and I wasn't paying close enough attention to recall for sure.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey BO did you ever get GRID going yet??? I had to disable SLI for the game to run smoothly.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hey BO did you ever get GRID going yet??? I had to disable SLI for the game to run smoothly.


 As a matter of fact I did. Been racing with all driving aids off except auto trans.

I did notice one thing, all of the reflections on the cars, like the sun on the mustang in the garage, flicker. I wonder if this is an AA issue or a CFX issue.







Didn't get any time today to mess with though.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


As a matter of fact I did. Been racing with all driving aids off except auto trans.

I did notice one thing, all of the reflections on the cars, like the sun on the mustang in the garage, flicker. I wonder if this is an AA issue or a CFX issue.







Didn't get any time today to mess with though.


Checking in and good to see someone is having fun. Been busy as of late and you guys probrably know what I was doing to be tied up.








Don't worry, you know I'll get that one back SOON or blow it up trying.









Oh yeah, about to have some of my own this weekend too. 
Upgrading the wife's PC and getting my AM3 back up for awhile. Got a pair of 140 Sempys (One for the wife's PC upgrade) and I also picked up a set of DDR3 sticks to see what's been causing my low RAM speeds problems. I'll finally have an answer once done if the old sticks or CPU is the cause. 
Of course I'll be checking to see if either chip will unlock but the MSI GD70 - 790FX isn't really know for doing that very much, so not expecting any real success. My 720 BE definitely won't unlock, at least with this board.

Nothing new to report on 939 stuff, it's been awhile since I've had one running but you know I will one day. Been running the 754 (DFI NF4X Infinity / Newark 3700 mobile) for the past few weeks and it's been doing rather well and had a chance to experiment with DICE for cooling. Need a pot so I can do even more than ever.








If I get one, it's back to the benchies to see if I can top what I've done before and (maybe







) reach 3.5+GHz with at least one 939 CPU.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I had to disable SLI for the game to run smoothly.

What do you mean by smoothly? Screen tearing? Micro-stutter? IF you're getting that, enable vsync. I was getting some pretty bad tearing with it at first; enabled vsync, all graphic anomalies, other than the reflection flicker, went away.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Checking in and good to see someone is having fun. Been busy as of late and you guys probrably know what I was doing to be tied up.








Don't worry, you know I'll get that one back SOON or blow it up trying.









Oh yeah, about to have some of my own this weekend too.
Upgrading the wife's PC and getting my AM3 back up for awhile. Got a pair of 140 Sempys (One for the wife's PC upgrade) and I also picked up a set of DDR3 sticks to see what's been causing my low RAM speeds problems. I'll finally have an answer once done if the old sticks or CPU is the cause.
Of course I'll be checking to see if either chip will unlock but the MSI GD70 - 790FX isn't really know for doing that very much, so not expecting any real success. My 720 BE definitely won't unlock, at least with this board.

Nothing new to report on 939 stuff, it's been awhile since I've had one running but you know I will one day. Been running the 754 (DFI NF4X Infinity / Newark 3700 mobile) for the past few weeks and it's been doing rather well and had a chance to experiment with DICE for cooling. Need a pot so I can do even more than ever.








If I get one, it's back to the benchies to see if I can top what I've done before and (maybe







) reach 3.5+GHz with at least one 939 CPU.

I've still got 2 939's running 24/7







.

Let me know what you think of those 140's. I've been thinking about getting a cheaper AM3 chip and after my new board shows up,







, I might just make my AM3 a folding rig. Figure it has 4 PCIe slots, why not? It'll quell my power pill slightly.

As for a pot, look over in the exoctic cooling catagory, Bart has a DICE pot for ~$100 or 120 shipped.


----------



## N2Gaming

When SLI is enabled it will freez for a split second like it's slowing down, Stopping, then jumping or speeding up to get to where it would have been before it stopped or something like that. I don't know what you call that. I also have a little Tearing I will try Vsynk and see if that helps any


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Oops. Sorry, gents. Blitz said it right: I meant to type "C2," not "B2." The 140w version of the x4 965 BE is what I've got on the MSI; it was a gift from my brother-in-law.









My C3, though, will be going swimming.







That is, as soon as I've got time to finish the mods on the case. It needs some paint on the interior.







Alas, the weather in SoCal during the last few weekends has been bad for painting.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


When SLI is enabled it will freez for a split second like it's slowing down, Stopping, then jumping or speeding up to get to where it would have been before it stopped or something like that. I don't know what you call that. I also have a little Tearing I will try Vsynk and see if that helps any


 It sounds like a background process hogging resources.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Oops. Sorry, gents. Blitz said it right: I meant to type "C2," not "B2." The 140w version of the x4 965 BE is what I've got on the MSI; it was a gift from my brother-in-law.









My C3, though, will be going swimming.







That is, as soon as I've got time to finish the mods on the case. It needs some paint on the interior.







Alas, the weather in SoCal during the last few weekends has been bad for painting.


 Ah rgr that. A quad is a quad none the less. The C2's, in the right hands, are still very capable of impressive performance. Testing is of paramount importance though.

I think I need a new case. Wire management is becoming a pain in this one. Any ideas for ~$100 that has good airflow and wire management?
Preferably not the Antec 900 style cases unless they've got a really nice finish like brushed aluminum.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I think I need a new case. Wire management is becoming a pain in this one. Any ideas for ~$100 that has good airflow and wire management?
Preferably not the Antec 900 style cases unless they've got a really nice finish like brushed aluminum.


Lian-Li K62
NZXT Hades


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Lian-Li K62
NZXT Hades

Thanks Tator.









I should've been more specific. Non mesh grille front is preferable, yet still ahve good airflow, I prefer if it didn't have a window (but if it's really cool otherwise I can live with one), and I'd prefer a mid tower but if the full tower is better/nicer I'd be willing to give that a go.


----------



## TestECull

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
As a matter of fact I did. Been racing with all driving aids off except auto trans.

lol, Automatic is the only aid I turned off. I chopped two seconds by switching to manual, the computer doesn't shift the automatic when it needs to for my driving style.

Then again, I brake a good second after the AI, go hurtling into the corner twice as fast as I should, then use every bit of pavement, AI, grass, wall and whatever else to get around. I also tend to drift alot, and downshifting one gear too far is a nearly guaranteed way to get the ass end sliding.


----------



## Tator Tot

Maybe the Lian-Li PC7FN?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Thanks Tator.









I should've been more specific. Non mesh grille front is preferable, yet still ahve good airflow, I prefer if it didn't have a window (but if it's really cool otherwise I can live with one), and I'd prefer a mid tower but if the full tower is better/nicer I'd be willing to give that a go.

Lian-Li A05NB
Thermaltake Element S


----------



## N2Gaming

well teste you sound like me but I race w/full Auto Tranni and Tracktion control on as I don't have the3 tinasity to get use to using my slider for throttle. I just use a button either my gas is fully on or fully off... :/

BO I think it may be realted to temperatures some how. Typically it won't happen w/a single card but once in a while it happens w/a single card.

I turned on Vsynk and the tearing cleared up. I turn my GPU's on full blash and it don't happen and I don't think my GPU's are getting to hot I think maybe the chip on the mobo under the GPU's is getting to hot and the GPU's exhaust come out right at the chip on the mobo.

So my theory is that by turning up my GPU fan speed it keeps the mobo temps down to where that don't happen.

I kill most if not all background tasks that I don't need w/the exception of Xfire and Steam. I actually launch the game through steam but have it on DVD so it has to have the DVD in the drive as well

I was thinking it was a hard drive issue.

I have the same problem w/Burnout Paradise The Ultimate Box when I try to run it w/SLI enabled.

It's a weird thing and I think it's related to my mobo. IDK I guess I could get a different mobo and if the problem goes away then I know it's the mobo but that's just more BS that I don't want to go through if you know what I mean. I'd prolly just end up w/different problems at that point any how. I should figure it out though as I had issues w/Crysis as well and I never go to the bottom of that one either all though I think Crysis plays a lot smoother in Win 7 x64 IIRC vs Xp X64

check this out guys. a very rare un releases OPTY 190 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...E:B:SS:US:1123


----------



## TestECull

lol, I have throttle and brakes bound to my xBox 360 pad's triggers and shifting to the shoulder buttons just above them.


----------



## theCanadian

CCBBE.

That's all I'm going to say.

If you don't know what I'm talking about:
http://www.overclock.net/8651388-post22384.html


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


CCBBE.

That's all I'm going to say.

If you don't know what I'm talking about:
http://www.overclock.net/8651388-post22384.html


Keep us updated, theCanadian!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Heads up, S939ers!

*thlnk3r and wife have successfully unlocked the newest core* to their family unit. thlnk3r's family is now a tri-core, since their new son entered our world earlier this morning.









Mommy and daddy are tired but very happy, and the new kid on the block is healthy. They'll be going home in a couple of days.

Congratulate thlnk3r, if you wish, in this thread, or in this other thread I made.

thlnk3r sends his warm regards to everyone, as well!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
lol, Automatic is the only aid I turned off. I chopped two seconds by switching to manual, the computer doesn't shift the automatic when it needs to for my driving style.

Then again, I brake a good second after the AI, go hurtling into the corner twice as fast as I should, then use every bit of pavement, AI, grass, wall and whatever else to get around. I also tend to drift alot, and downshifting one gear too far is a nearly guaranteed way to get the ass end sliding.

Man I'm constantly rear-ending the stupid computer AI racers.







They're some freakin wussies in to the corners.

I only run automatic because I have to keep the volume down fairly low cuz the kids and wife are sleeping; I can't hear the shift points.
No matter having traction control, ABS, and stability assist off really steps up the difficulty.

And man I wish you could save replays, I was screwing around last night seeing how many G's I could generate in a wreck (317 was the highest I got), at any rate, I caused this spectacular crash where my car bounced off of one wall, went flying over the track killing 2 more drivers and then blasting another wall. I was seriously spectacular.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Lian-Li A05NB
[

I saw that case yesterday in another thread, I actually like the pretty efficient layout. I wonder how it is for cable management?







That was my only concern with it.

Thanks for the suggestions.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
BO I think it may be realted to temperatures some how. Typically it won't happen w/a single card but once in a while it happens w/a single card.

I turned on Vsynk and the tearing cleared up. I turn my GPU's on full blash and it don't happen and I don't think my GPU's are getting to hot I think maybe the chip on the mobo under the GPU's is getting to hot and the GPU's exhaust come out right at the chip on the mobo.

So my theory is that by turning up my GPU fan speed it keeps the mobo temps down to where that don't happen.

I kill most if not all background tasks that I don't need w/the exception of Xfire and Steam. I actually launch the game through steam but have it on DVD so it has to have the DVD in the drive as well

I was thinking it was a hard drive issue.

I have the same problem w/Burnout Paradise The Ultimate Box when I try to run it w/SLI enabled.

It's a weird thing and I think it's related to my mobo. IDK I guess I could get a different mobo and if the problem goes away then I know it's the mobo but that's just more BS that I don't want to go through if you know what I mean. I'd prolly just end up w/different problems at that point any how. I should figure it out though as I had issues w/Crysis as well and I never go to the bottom of that one either all though I think Crysis plays a lot smoother in Win 7 x64 IIRC vs Xp X64

check this out guys. a very rare un releases OPTY 190 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...E:B:SS:US:1123

Interesting







Never seen a 190 before.

As for your temps, a NB that's too hot can cause issues for sure. Although, I think these ported games just run better with Vsync enabled. Even Mass Effect had tearing issues until I turned Vsync on.

Crysis is one of those games that has a hard time running smoothly on anything, really. Although, it did run pretty smoothly on my rig, but then again I am running DX9. Crysis is also VERY CPU frequency dependent, so it's no wonder that it runs poorly on older/slower systems.

But we'll see how my new rig (when I assemble it) tears through it.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
lol, I have throttle and brakes bound to my xBox 360 pad's triggers and shifting to the shoulder buttons just above them.

I like the triggers, I had to turn up the dead zone so they're more variable. I'm still experimenting with the various control sensitivities, I've found this is really helpful especially with traction control disabled.

Is it just me or did you have issues driving the open wheel cars too? I'm so used to sliding the "normal" cars that driving something with grip was kind of shocking. Sliding F1, Indy, KART cars = bad.

On a side note, do you guys know of any articles about monitors and eye strain? What are some qualities in a monitor that helps reduce it and so on. I was thinking about this last night; I bet a lot of users on OCN look at a monitor for several hours a day, just makes sense to get something that isn't actually damaging your eyes by causing eye strain.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 

I saw that case yesterday in another thread, I actually like the pretty efficient layout. I wonder how it is for cable management?







That was my only concern with it.

Thanks for the suggestions.









No prob man.

The Cablemange is not terrible, it takes some cable ties, and about an hour of work I'd say.

Pretty easy case to work with. Though, you're limited to 3 HDD's, and 2 ODD slots.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Crysis is one of those games that has a hard time running smoothly on anything, really. Although, it did run pretty smoothly on my rig, but then again I am running DX9. Crysis is also VERY CPU frequency dependent, so it's no wonder that it runs poorly on older/slower systems.

What is going into the rig? At 1080p, 4x AA, everything else maxed, I get about 50 FPS average in Crysis. That is with a 3.65 GHz Deneb and an HD 5970 @ 800/1200.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


No prob man.

The Cablemange is not terrible, it takes some cable ties, and about an hour of work I'd say.

Pretty easy case to work with. Though, you're limited to 3 HDD's, and 2 ODD slots.


 The HDD's aren't an issue, as I don't believe that I'll use more than 2, and I only ever use 1 DVDcombo drive so that's not a big deal. 
An hour worth of cable management









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


What is going into the rig? At 1080p, 4x AA, everything else maxed, I get about 50 FPS average in Crysis. That is with a 3.65 GHz Deneb and an HD 5970 @ 800/1200.


 i7 920, 3GB OC Golds, Evga x58 3xSLI. This is actually the reason I went with this Seasonic 850w. I think it should get rather comical running XP.









In DX9 mode, everything maxed 8xAA, 16xAF I average around 50-60 FPS. With the occasional dip, but that seems to be some poor textures as there is no reason for it to drop.

It really is a beautiful game though. Pretty cool story. I've been playing through warhead, but for some reason I get worse frame rates in it than in the first one.







Even with AA off it literally makes about 0 difference in framerates. Wonder why?









I also checked out Cryostasis, and in that I seem to get some ridiculously low fram rates for no reason. I look at GPU usage and it's barely at 50% on both cards, yet I'm getting 25-30 FPS? What gives? Maybe because it's "Nvidia, the way it's mean to be played".


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


The HDD's aren't an issue, as I don't believe that I'll use more than 2, and I only ever use 1 DVDcombo drive so that's not a big deal. 
An hour worth of cable management










An hour on my time. It really depends on how much of a perfectionist you are with it.

An hour of my time gets this:
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h1...61292/P183.jpg
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h1...61292/P193.jpg
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h1...61292/p190.jpg
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h1...2/DSCN2847.jpg
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h1...6_1024x768.jpg
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h1...61292/7zAC.jpg
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h1...2/DSC_0686.jpg


----------



## SwishaMane

Hey guys, I'm an oldschool 939er. I'd still have mine if I didn't get fed up, and just go space age AM3. But uh, I got Opty 180 CCB1E 0550 sitting here, and some parts on the way (mobo, 420+ etc) and I'm gonna be resurrecting this chip, hopefully.

What are your guys' thoughts on this stepping. I hear its rare as it gets. It arrived a dud. I installed it 3 times, doing different things to clean it up, wouldn't post. What it DID show was Opteron 180, but wouldn't progress to quick memory test before finishing boot. So IDK if it WAS the chip completely, or the mobo. I think CPU is fine. I can't wait.

What is the chance my mobo wo't be compatible with Opteron CPUs tho? I looked at the compatibility list of the mobo, not listed, BUT, theres a few other mobos that don't have official Opty support, but that do anyways, couple ASUS and DFI boards coem to mind. Mine is a Asus A8N-E. Looks decent...

http://www.newegg.com/product/produc...82E16813131530

Just wanted to let you guys know, peace.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


An hour on my time. It really depends on how much of a perfectionist you are with it.

An hour of my time gets this:










 My cases typically look like this. I hate having my cases a mess, my Asus vento 3600 was a pain to manage internally. The case has basically nothing for cable management.

I'll have to snap a pic of my current getup.

PS: I've wire managed car audio for a long time so hiding wiring is something I do along the way of putting a rig together. It only takes me roughly....30 minutes to put together a rig from start to finish.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*


Hey guys, I'm an oldschool 939er. I'd still have mine if I didn't get fed up, and just go space age AM3. But uh, I got Opty 180 CCB1E 0550 sitting here, and some parts on the way (mobo, 420+ etc) and I'm gonna be resurrecting this chip, hopefully.

What are your guys' thoughts on this stepping. I hear its rare as it gets. It arrived a dud. I installed it 3 times, doing different things to clean it up, wouldn't post. What it DID show was Opteron 180, but wouldn't progress to quick memory test before finishing boot. So IDK if it WAS the chip completely, or the mobo. I think CPU is fine. I can't wait.

What is the chance my mobo wo't be compatible with Opteron CPUs tho? I looked at the compatibility list of the mobo, not listed, BUT, theres a few other mobos that don't have official Opty support, but that do anyways, couple ASUS and DFI boards coem to mind. Mine is a Asus A8N-E. Looks decent...

http://www.newegg.com/product/produc...82E16813131530

Just wanted to let you guys know, peace.


 It sounds like the board was the culprit with it failing the quick mem test. Possibly bad RAM.
An Asus A8N-E should be just fine for the opty. Every board I've come across an opty works just fine in, even though they're not officially supported.

No idea about the stepping. I'm sure txtmstrjoe or blits would have some more insight about it however.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

SwishaMane, CCB1E by reputation is a good stepping. I never owned one, though, so I can't personally vouch for how good it is. But most that I've read about it is that many chips from this batch can approach, if not actually hit, the magic 3.0GHz mark.

Good luck with yours! And please share your experiences with it here!


----------



## Blitz6804

I hear for Opteron 165s, some of the best steppings are:

CCB1E 0550VPMW
CCB1E 0605XPMW
CCB1E 0606VPMW
CCB1E 0608MPMW
CCB1E 0609FPAW
CCB1E 0609FPMW

Supposedly they push 2.8 GHz easily, and 3.2 GHz is possible with water. Txtmstrjoe knows better though. EDIT: Crosspost fail. (-_-)


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*


Hey guys, I'm an oldschool 939er. I'd still have mine if I didn't get fed up, and just go space age AM3. But uh, I got Opty 180 CCB1E 0550 sitting here, and some parts on the way (mobo, 420+ etc) and I'm gonna be resurrecting this chip, hopefully.

What are your guys' thoughts on this stepping. I hear its rare as it gets. It arrived a dud. I installed it 3 times, doing different things to clean it up, wouldn't post. What it DID show was Opteron 180, but wouldn't progress to quick memory test before finishing boot. So IDK if it WAS the chip completely, or the mobo. I think CPU is fine. I can't wait.

What is the chance my mobo wo't be compatible with Opteron CPUs tho? I looked at the compatibility list of the mobo, not listed, BUT, theres a few other mobos that don't have official Opty support, but that do anyways, couple ASUS and DFI boards coem to mind. Mine is a Asus A8N-E. Looks decent...

http://www.newegg.com/product/produc...82E16813131530

Just wanted to let you guys know, peace.


I have a CCB1E 0609FPAW Opty 170 that does 3GHz 

As long as your board uses a socket 939 chip its more than likely to work. None of my boards say they support a dual core cpu, but they do.

EDIT:It says this for your board......

Supported CPU
CPU Socket Type 939
CPU Type Athlon 64 X2 / Athlon 64 FX / Athlon 64

You'll be fine. Opteron is the same thing it's just intended for server use because they are the cream of the crop, supposedly. That's what I've read.

Oh yeah...Congrats Thlnk3r


----------



## N2Gaming

Congrats Thlnk3r









BO I rebooted last night after re-enabling SLI and then put my GPU fans at 100% and it seems to have worked. I even turned my AA up to 16

Seems to be working fine now w/SLI and Vsynk enabled.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
My cases typically look like this. I hate having my cases a mess, my Asus vento 3600 was a pain to manage internally. The case has basically nothing for cable management.

I'll have to snap a pic of my current getup.

PS: I've wire managed car audio for a long time so hiding wiring is something I do along the way of putting a rig together. It only takes me roughly....30 minutes to put together a rig from start to finish.

It all depends on the case. Some I do quicker than others.

I can actually get an Antec 300 build done and manged (like in the pick with a 750watt non modular PSU btw) in 45 Minutes with dual GPU's installed and all fans changed. Just because I've worked on that case so much.

And some cases, depending on the parts, turn out better than others do.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


BO I rebooted last night after re-enabling SLI and then put my GPU fans at 100% and it seems to have worked. I even turned my AA up to 16

Seems to be working fine now w/SLI and Vsynk enabled.


 Good to hear that, Like I said before, I've found enabling vsync on ported games typically fixes most graphic issues that people have. 
I still haven't figured out what is causing my flickering of the reflections on the cars. That's the only graphic anomaly I have at the moment.

But now after playing some, I can see why Joe probably doesn't like it. The way the cars handle for the most part is relatively unrealistic. Cars the should have a lot of oversteer, get a lot of understeer in some turns which makes me like









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


It all depends on the case. Some I do quicker than others.

I can actually get an Antec 300 build done and manged (like in the pick with a 750watt non modular PSU btw) in 45 Minutes with dual GPU's installed and all fans changed. Just because I've worked on that case so much.

And some cases, depending on the parts, turn out better than others do.


 Same way here, the most frustrating one I've worked with to date, even more frustrating than an OEM Dell is that Vento 3600. I've been seriously thinking about modding the bejesus out of it. It's got plenty of room for cable management just the holes haven't been cut yet. I've been contemplating routing all sorts of air ducts inside of it to cool various components; that way I can ensure that each one will have a source of "fresh" air.

A little OT, do you guys know where I can find either a generic or specific service manual for my Acer Aspire 1? I think something got spilled on it and now certain keys don't work at all (like the one under the A] and some don't work in combination with the shift key like d,p,v, close parenthesis,etc.

I want to take it apart and see if I can fix it, but I hate going in "blind" so to speak.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Same way here, the most frustrating one I've worked with to date, even more frustrating than an OEM Dell is that Vento 3600. I've been seriously thinking about modding the bejesus out of it. It's got plenty of room for cable management just the holes haven't been cut yet. I've been contemplating routing all sorts of air ducts inside of it to cool various components; that way I can ensure that each one will have a source of "fresh" air.


I've got two of the Antec 300's, but I'm not modding them till I have the money for a build I want to do with them.

Or atleast get the modding side done.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


A little OT, do you guys know where I can find either a generic or specific service manual for my Acer Aspire 1? I think something got spilled on it and now certain keys don't work at all (like the one under the A] and some don't work in combination with the shift key like d,p,v, close parenthesis,etc.

I want to take it apart and see if I can fix it, but I hate going in "blind" so to speak.


http://repair4laptop.org/disassembly_acer.html

Check there, lots of info.


----------



## Blitz6804

As we all well know, I stink with wire management. Maybe one day I will try hard to fix that, but probably not. I have worked out a plan for an epic case, shame I have no skills (or money) to build it. Basically, its acrylic, with two internal 360mm rads, designed such that none of their exhaust disturbs the other components. Some day, when I have a "real job," I will likely hire someone to build it.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
I've got two of the Antec 300's, but I'm not modding them till I have the money for a build I want to do with them.

Or atleast get the modding side done.

I've just got to sit down and really draw out how I want it. It's housing one of my folding rigs at the moment. As soon as I get another case, I'll hopefully have some time to devote to it; unlikely though, with a prego wife and 2 little ones. It's like "what? Free time? what's that?". I only get it sporadically throughout the day and then late at night.







There goes wanting to use power tools.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
http://repair4laptop.org/disassembly_acer.html

Check there, lots of info.

AWESOME! Thank you very much sir.







Maybe I'll throw another 512 while it's apart









Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
As we all well know, I stink with wire management. Maybe one day I will try hard to fix that, but probably not. I have worked out a plan for an epic case, shame I have no skills (or money) to build it. Basically, its acrylic, with two internal 360mm rads, designed such that none of their exhaust disturbs the other components. Some day, when I have a "real job," I will likely hire someone to build it.

Acrylic is hard to work with and have it look good. But i saw some of the acrylic cases for the competitions that were really nicely done.

I don't know if I'd ever go water cooled; I'd rather do phase change, but in all reality, air cooling is the most practical.

Maybe I'll make a new case.....







would give me an excuse to take another fabricating class







.
All aluminum chassis, aluminum paneling; all tig welded chassis, no rivets. Could possibly even polish it out.....







A chrome case.









PS: For cable management zip ties and needle nose pliers are your friend. Don't worry, you won't hurt the cables.


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, could be aluminum or sheet steel; I just liked the look of opaque acrylic. As long as I could have a 40% tinted acrylic panel for the window, any medium would work fine I think.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I've just got to sit down and really draw out how I want it. It's housing one of my folding rigs at the moment. As soon as I get another case, I'll hopefully have some time to devote to it; unlikely though, with a prego wife and 2 little ones. It's like "what? Free time? what's that?". I only get it sporadically throughout the day and then late at night.







There goes wanting to use power tools.









AWESOME! Thank you very much sir.







Maybe I'll throw another 512 while it's apart









No problem man. I'd bookmark that site, it's got lots of useful laptop info.

But I hear ya, being a full time student and no job right now = plenty of free time and no money.

As soon as I get a job, it'll be no time, all the money









Never a happy medium


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Let me know what you think of those 140's. I've been thinking about getting a cheaper AM3 chip and after my new board shows up,







, I might just make my AM3 a folding rig. Figure it has 4 PCIe slots, why not? It'll quell my power pill slightly.


Will do. 
I'll get it up and running tomorrow sometime after I do the wife's machine. That may take some time to get right so I'm hoping it will be a quick upgrade.

BTW, Congrats Think3r!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I think the keys to working with acrylic (actually, I think this could be said with any material, to be honest) are 1) knowing beforehand what shapes your panels are going to be, 2) cutting said panels as perfectly as possible, and 3) ensuring whatever method you use for joining said panels -- whether by nuts and bolts/rivets/screws, welding, or using adhesives -- is done as cleanly as possible.

Blitzy's case concept sound really interesting, actually. I'm thinking a multi-chambered enclosure.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Well, could be aluminum or sheet steel; I just liked the look of opaque acrylic. As long as I could have a 40% tinted acrylic panel for the window, any medium would work fine I think.


 Yeah a nice slightly smoked case would look awesome. Make it jsut dark enough that you can barely seen in with it off, then have it light up nicely when on. I believe Oliver built a case sort of like that, it was sick.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


No problem man. I'd bookmark that site, it's got lots of useful laptop info.

But I hear ya, being a full time student and no job right now = plenty of free time and no money.

As soon as I get a job, it'll be no time, all the money









Never a happy medium










 Well if you're single you don't need to work 60 hours/week. 40 is plenty and

allows enough time for you to do stuff at home and have hobbies. Kids is

what obliterates your free time; at least when they're little. The more kids = even less free time. I'm about to have my third







.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Will do. 
I'll get it up and running tomorrow sometime after I do the wife's machine. That may take some time to get right so I'm hoping it will be a quick upgrade.


 Can't have a wife without a comp, does she do that whole facebook thing?









Other than when I've needed my netbook for school, my wife uses it constantly. Hopefully I can convince her to get rid of this freakin G5 iMac while it's still worth something.

EDIT:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I think the keys to working with acrylic (actually, I think this could be said with any material, to be honest) are 1) knowing beforehand what shapes your panels are going to be, 2) cutting said panels as perfectly as possible, and *3) ensuring whatever method you use for joining said panels -- whether by nuts and bolts/rivets/screws, welding, or using adhesives -- is done as cleanly as possible. 
*
Blitzy's case concept sound really interesting, actually. I'm thinking a multi-chambered enclosure.










 That right there is the hardest part, making it look perty.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well if you're single you don't need to work 60 hours/week. 40 is plenty and

allows enough time for you to do stuff at home and have hobbies. Kids is

what obliterates your free time; at least when they're little. The more kids = even less free time. I'm about to have my third







.


Oh trust me, I know. I have a Total of 5 Siblings. 
Ages 5 to 20









School right now is roughly 12 hours a week. And with all but my College Algebra class being writing intensive (2 papers a week in all but one.)

My free time gets shot from all of that... I never thought a business degree could suck up so much time...









It even allowed TwoCables to pass me in Rep









DuckieHo is finally a Mod though...means I can catch up


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


But I hear ya, being a full time student and no job right now = plenty of free time and no money.


When I start studying for the bar, I'll be no free time, AND no money. (;_









Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Blitzy's case concept sound really interesting, actually. I'm thinking a multi-chambered enclosure.










Nah, nothing that complicated. If I could use something like Sketchup, I would. For now, I just made it in Paintshop Pro. If you do not have the same program, I cannot show it since all the layers would merge, without making several pics showing with different layers removed.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well if you're single you don't need to work 60 hours/week. 40 is plenty and allows enough time for you to do stuff at home and have hobbies.


The ultimate irony. You do not need to work 60 hours a week when single, but you could and no-one would care. You do need to work 60 hours a week to support a family, but everyone wishes you only did 40.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


DuckieHo is finally a Mod though...means I can catch up










*If* ever I had the need, I could rep him anyway.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Oh trust me, I know. I have a Total of 5 Siblings. 
Ages 5 to 20









School right now is roughly 12 hours a week. And with all but my College Algebra class being writing intensive (2 papers a week in all but one.)

My free time gets shot from all of that... I never thought a business degree could suck up so much time...









It even allowed TwoCables to pass me in Rep









DuckieHo is finally a Mod though...means I can catch up










 Man that's a lot of papers. This is my first semester where I've actually had to write papers in all my classes, hate it.

5 kids







I think I'd go nuts. With 2 it's hard enough as it is. Good thing the third one is going to be a little girl, she wont be as crazy...... hopefully.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


The ultimate irony. You do not need to work 60 hours a week when single, but you could and no-one would care. You do need to work 60 hours a week to support a family, but everyone wishes you only did 40.


 Exactly. The family doesn't want you to work at all and spend all of your time with them.

However, when I was single and in my 20's, I did work at a job between 72 and 84 per week.







I only had time to sleep and shower.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Can't have a wife without a comp, does she do that whole facebook thing?









Other than when I've needed my netbook for school, my wife uses it constantly. Hopefully I can convince her to get rid of this freakin G5 iMac while it's still worth something.


Nah, we don't do facebook.

Guys, so far the 140 Sempy is all good, including the extra core unlocking without a hitch in my MB - Shows up as a Athlon X2 440 Regor core.









Right now I'm letting it do a 1024M WPrime run and it's doing fine so far. Temp readings are OK/Not whacky as some have reported when unlocking cores and no actual computing errors to report yet. The chip right now is OC'ed to around 3200MHz or so and going strong. Also did a run using Nuclearus MC and completed that with no errors too.

Next step would be to really stress it and see what happens. I still need to test the other 140 Sempy I got for the wife and see what it does. If it unlocks too, great and I do have another chip I could pop in the MB instead (If I really want to keep both chips







) but believe I'll let her have the lesser of the two chips of course. 
She doesn't OC her stuff so either one will do in her setup. 
For less than $35.00 per chip, I have a DC AM3 chip and possibly another one too. 
Not a bad investment at all for the newest AMD platform you know.


----------



## Blitz6804

If I remember right, when unlocking you supposedly lose the Core temp sensor, but you still can see the CPU temp sensor. At least, this is the case with x3 720s.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


If I remember right, when unlocking you supposedly lose the Core temp sensor, but you still can see the CPU temp sensor. At least, this is the case with x3 720s.


Seems after doing some more testing, the temp sensor will go away but with this one, it seems to work some of the time according to the MB LED readout but HWmonitor shows 0c with both cores all the time. Shows normal readings as a single core chip.

Also found the limit of it's stability unlocked and it's about average (3.2+GHz) for one of these and it did get up to 3.4 but I could tell it was getting really unstable there. At stock speed or speeds not much over stock, it seemed to do better and I guess that's normal too.

Although it was running good at 3.2GHz while testing, it finally folded during the 1024M WPrime run. Next, I did a high MHz run as a single core and got 3.9 easily but didn't seem up to hitting 4.0. I know it's a matter of tweaking to get it there and at least it acts like it may do it without too much prodding.

Tested the other chip and although it will POST as a unlocked chip, won't boot into Windows. 
I can't complain at all with what I got and at least I do have one that will unlock for not alot of $$'s invested between the two - A perfectly good DC chip costs as much if not more than these did. The unlockable chip seems perfectly stable at stock speeds (2.7GHz) so I'm actually happy with it.
For less than $35.00, it's a good risk to try one and even if it doesn't unlock, these chips are still powerful. Has the same L1/L2 cache values as a 939 DC Opty chip when ran as a single core.


----------



## ny_driver

So I've been testing the "new" Opty, and although it runs through s&m no problem @ 2.9GHz/1.45v, it fails prime. It seems perfectly stable in windows, and it runs GTR2 without a hiccup, but in order to get it to run prime past the very first test it needs 1.5-1.51v. I only let prime run for 15-20 minutes with the voltage that high, but it seemed like it would keep going.

Right now I'm just running it un-prime stable @ only 1.45v.

Thought? Ideas? Suggestions? Thanks.


----------



## nategr8ns

If you feel confidant, keep it where it is. Obviously though, whatever Prime is doing is crashing it. If another application does the same thing, it will also crash. Leaving it unstable (because if anything crashes on it, its unstable in my opinion), is a risk.

Side note: Any of you soft-ware savvy guys should check out my thread. I'm stuck. This happened last time I tried to dual boot too...
Bootloader: BCDEDIT, and EasyBCD can't do what I want.


----------



## ny_driver

Maybe I should just give it the 1.5v it wants and see how long its prime stable. 
How much will running 1.5v shorten the life of the chip anyways?







EDIT: it wasn't getting hot, only like 56 in prime.


----------



## Blitz6804

Silly question, do you remember at what settings BlackOmega was running that chip?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Seems after doing some more testing, the temp sensor will go away but with this one, it seems to work some of the time according to the MB LED readout but HWmonitor shows 0c with both cores all the time. Shows normal readings as a single core chip.

Also found the limit of it's stability unlocked and it's about average (3.2+GHz) for one of these and it did get up to 3.4 but I could tell it was getting really unstable there. At stock speed or speeds not much over stock, it seemed to do better and I guess that's normal too.

Although it was running good at 3.2GHz while testing, it finally folded during the 1024M WPrime run. Next, I did a high MHz run as a single core and got 3.9 easily but didn't seem up to hitting 4.0. I know it's a matter of tweaking to get it there and at least it acts like it may do it without too much prodding.

Tested the other chip and although it will POST as a unlocked chip, won't boot into Windows.
I can't complain at all with what I got and at least I do have one that will unlock for not alot of $$'s invested between the two - A perfectly good DC chip costs as much if not more than these did. The unlockable chip seems perfectly stable at stock speeds (2.7GHz) so I'm actually happy with it.
For less than $35.00, it's a good risk to try one and even if it doesn't unlock, these chips are still powerful. Has the same L1/L2 cache values as a 939 DC Opty chip when ran as a single core.

Very good hear that it at least has a 50% unlock and OC rate.
Didyou try to OC the chip that didn't unlock?

Have you tried running the RAM ganged and unganged to see if there was a difference. Supposedly the single cores run better with the memory ganged; just wondering if you got a better OC one way or the other.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Silly question, do you remember at what settings BlackOmega was running that chip?

On my DFI's with the NF4 chipsets, the 180 would boot and pass S&M @ 1.36v @ 2900. With the CFX3200 it needed ever so slightly more 1.375v.
Last I checked it, it needed 1.45v to be prime stable @ 2900.

I think the main difference is the board. On his it wouldn't even boot at 2900 @ 1.36v, IIRC.

Correct me if I'm wrong but don't 939's officially only support PC3200 RAM?

Reason I ask is because ny_driver, according to sig, is running @ DDR484. I'm thinking that since 939's don't have a separate voltage for the IMC, the added voltage is actually needed for the increased RAM speed.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Silly question, do you remember at what settings BlackOmega was running that chip?

Yes, and it should be prime stable where it's at, but I guess my motherboard isn't keeping up or something. Although when I test the voltage during stress testing I get .05 higher than at idle. I'm going to run prime later at the voltage it requires and see how it does. I don't think 1.5v is really that ridiculously high, as long as the temps are good.

How much difference do you guys get on the meter between idle Vcore and stress testing Vcore?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
.

I think the main difference is the board. On his it wouldn't even boot at 2900 @ 1.36v, IIRC.

Correct me if I'm wrong but don't 939's officially only support PC3200 RAM?

Reason I ask is because ny_driver, according to sig, is running @ DDR484. I'm thinking that since 939's don't have a separate voltage for the IMC, the added voltage is actually needed for the increased RAM speed.

EDIT:
Didn't see that you posted.
What you say may be possible.
I'll try testing with the RAM @ 400 first and a lower voltage.


----------



## Blitz6804

I guess the memory might be part of the reason, but I am skeptical. It is more likely that the memory is unstable at that speed more than the memory controller being unstable. Are you running the nForce 3 at stock voltage ny_driver? If you lower your RAM divider, does it still need 1.500 V? If not, try increasing your RAM voltage.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I guess the memory might be part of the reason, but I am skeptical. It is more likely that the memory is unstable at that speed more than the memory controller being unstable. Are you running the nForce 3 at stock voltage ny_driver? If you lower your RAM divider, does it still need 1.500 V? If not, try increasing your RAM voltage.


I have no voltage adjustment for the nForce3. I tested the memory out at this speed last night with memtest, and the voltage set to 2.8v. I had to switch out the mushkin because they were giving me errors. I tried with lower memory divider, but I think I was still using the mushkin. 
Back to square one I guess, huh? LOL









EDIT: been running prime 25-30 minutes so far now at only 1.48v(1.45 still failed) using the OCZ platinum @ DDR484. [I'm typing on the 3700+ system] Things are looking better with better memory. Weird how that mushkin tested out when I got it, but now it's flaky.

reEDIT: then after a half hour the circuit the computer is on got overloaded and blew







(2 computers and the microwave downstairs)....now when I test it fails after a few minutes.....I've now lowered the memory to 196MHz and it failed there too. 
Now back up to 1.5v and DDR484. Will update in a few.

UPDATE: 22 minutes and going strong.

UPDATE: 1 hour and 15 minutes with max temps of 51c and 59c.

UPDATE: hardware failure detected in core#0(max temp of 51c)after 55 tests in 2 hours and 23 minutes @ 1.5v.







I guess it's not completely stable. The OCZ pass memtest at this speed, let me run s&m memory test and see if I get errors there. Maybe it is the memory.

EDIT: sure enough...memory passes memtest, but not s&m memory test @ 242MHz. Must be why it failed. Why the heck do we even use memtest then if it doesn't detect the errors s&m does?















my mushkin is screwed up now too....1 stick is good up to 250MHz and the other only up to 220MHz., but that's only in memtest. They were good up to 270MHz together when I got them.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Very good hear that it at least has a 50% unlock and OC rate. 
Didyou try to OC the chip that didn't unlock?

Have you tried running the RAM ganged and unganged to see if there was a difference. Supposedly the single cores run better with the memory ganged; just wondering if you got a better OC one way or the other.


Yes, I OC'ed the locked chip and it did really well, in fact better than the one that did unlock. It hit 4.0 and shows it can do more with tweaking.

The wife gets that one and if I need to, I'll pickup another one since these are so cheap right now.

Also found my old RAM sticks are the cause of my low RAM speeds with them, not the 720 BE chip. Placed my new sticks in with the 140 and was hitting 800MHz in CPU-Z, no prob. The old ones would only go to about 400 or so with the new chip so I know now it's the sticks. They still work OK, just not at normal DDR3 speeds. I'll use them as backups or maybe in something I won't be OC'ing later.

All I can say is these Sempy's are money well spent and glad I got them as an alternative to using my 720BE all the time. 
Saves the daily wear and tear on it, plus less power used to run the system = cheaper to use.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
EDIT: sure enough...memory passes memtest, but not s&m memory test @ 242MHz. Must be why it failed. *Why the heck do we even use memtest then if it doesn't detect the errors s&m does?*















my mushkin is screwed up now too....1 stick is good up to 250MHz and the other only up to 220MHz., but that's only in memtest. They were good up to 270MHz together when I got them.

IT's like I was telling you before, memtest tests JUST them RAM. It doesn't incorporate the CPU 1 bit.
When running prime/S&M the integrated memory controller on the CPU gets used, to a lesser or greater degree.

I run memtest just to see if the RAM can handle the speed, then I integrate in to my CPU overclock and test from there. But then again I find the exact limit of the CPU before I even think about running OC'd RAM.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Yes, I OC'ed the locked chip and it did really well, in fact better than the one that did unlock. It hit 4.0 and shows it can do more with tweaking.

The wife gets that one and if I need to, I'll pickup another one since these are so cheap right now.

Also found my old RAM sticks are the cause of my low RAM speeds with them, not the 720 BE chip. Placed my new sticks in with the 140 and was hitting 800MHz in CPU-Z, no prob. The old ones would only go to about 400 or so with the new chip so I know now it's the sticks. They still work OK, just not at normal DDR3 speeds. I'll use them as backups or maybe in something I won't be OC'ing later.

All I can say is these Sempy's are money well spent and glad I got them as an alternative to using my 720BE all the time.
Saves the daily wear and tear on it, plus less power used to run the system = cheaper to use.









What were your old sticks rated at? Maybe you could RMA them?

Very nice result on that other sempy. It'll be fun just to mess around with and have a spare/test chip around. If all goes as planned I might just have some 939 gear up for sale.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


IT's like I was telling you before, memtest tests JUST them RAM. It doesn't incorporate the CPU 1 bit. 
When running prime/S&M the integrated memory controller on the CPU gets used, to a lesser or greater degree.

I run memtest just to see if the RAM can handle the speed, then I integrate in to my CPU overclock and test from there. But then again I find the exact limit of the CPU before I even think about running OC'd RAM.


Yes, I remember...I run memtest to see if the memory can handle the speed it's at, then I run s&m to quick test the cpu and to see if the IMC can handle the memory at a given speed, and if it passes those two tests then run prime to see if everything is as stable as it seems. That is what I have been doing.

Yesterday when prime failed after 2.5 hours, I then back tracked and ran s&m memory test and discovered that the memory speed was too [email protected] 242MHz even though it had passed memtest. I dropped back to the 166 divider which put me at 207.5MHz which passed s&m memory test. I figured that prime would do better after this adjustment, so I turned prime on and went to bed. Well when I awoke 6 hours later, to the sound of that Tornado fan.....







, I found that core#1 had failed after 1.5 hours, and core#0 was still going. Max temps of 50c(core#0), and 58c on the one that failed.

The settings were [email protected](2.5-3-2-5-1T). The one thing I think that could be a problem is the HT link being too high @ 1012....my board is only rated at 800MHz. You think that might be the cause of failure. I've noticed though that when I have forgotten to lower the HT multi when OCing, that if it's too high the computer usually won't post. Thanks for listening and contemplating the reason for my failure.









Is it common with socket 939 to OC the cpu to it's limit, AND have the RAM OCed to it's limit? Or do people usually end up with the RAM at stock speed?









EDIT: Right now I'm going to drop the HT multi to 3x and lower the memory to the 150 divider which should definitely be under it's rated speed(yup it's 182MHz) then I'm going to run prime again. Any other suggestions, I'll be here on the other computer.

quick question before testing: do you think it is likely that with a lower cpu OC that I could run the RAM at a higher speed and pass prime? Or is the IMC only capable of handling "x" speed with stability, regardless of the cpu speed?

UPDATE: failed again after 1 hour 21 minutes even after this mornings adjustments. 
I think my next step will be to resurrect the Abit AV8 K8T800pro, and see if I have any better results with that chipset. That board will allow me to adjust the chipset voltage as well as other things this board does not. I'm determined to succeed @ a stable 2.9GHz OC.


----------



## Blitz6804

The Hypertransport at 1012 should not affect anything. It is normal to have both the CPU and the RAM overclocked at the same time yes. I believe it is possible that your CPU is just overclocked too far without getting a chipset overclock. While you could try the AV8 K8T800 Pro, I do not see much a point. I personally experimented with a Asus A8V-X while my Gigabyte GA-K8NSC-939 was dead, and it could hardly hold a candle to it. Those Via chipsets are not always the best for overclocking. (Granted, the Abit is an enthusiast's board, the Asus was a bargain board.) The biggest thing you have to check: you must make absolutely sure your PCI and AGP clocks lock. A lot of those Via boards did not lock down, causing you very limited HTT headroom. I returned the Asus and went PCIe; when the Gigabyte returned from RMA, it went in my garage, where it sits to this day... waiting for me to have money/parts to rebuild it.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


The Hypertransport at 1012 should not affect anything. It is normal to have both the CPU and the RAM overclocked at the same time yes. I believe it is possible that your CPU is just overclocked too far without getting a chipset overclock. While you could try the AV8 K8T800 Pro, I do not see much a point. I personally experimented with a Asus A8V-X while my Gigabyte GA-K8NSC-939 was dead, and it could hardly hold a candle to it. Those Via chipsets are not always the best for overclocking. (Granted, the Abit is an enthusiast's board, the Asus was a bargain board.) The biggest thing you have to check: you must make absolutely sure your PCI and AGP clocks lock. A lot of those Via boards did not lock down, causing you very limited HTT headroom. I returned the Asus and went PCIe; when the Gigabyte returned from RMA, it went in my garage, where it sits to this day... waiting for me to have money/parts to rebuild it.


I have to give it a try. The AV8 has more OC options, it allows a higher HT frequency, and it has chipset voltage adjustments. Besides that I have 2 Neo2 Platinums running, might as well have a little variety here. Thanks for the advice blitz.


----------



## N2Gaming

I saw this and remembered a member was trying to rebal his chipset on his DFI so I figured I would link a reballing kit that I just saw on Ebay for $8.99 + S/H http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...E:B:SS:US:1123


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I saw this and remembered a member was trying to rebal his chipset on his DFI so I figured I would link a reballing kit that I just saw on Ebay for $8.99 + S/H http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...E:B:SS:US:1123


What is this and why would one want to do it?


----------



## xtreme-one

I really want a 939 sometime...


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


What is this and why would one want to do it?


It's for changing the north bridge chip I think. As far as wanting to do it I don't know.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


What were your old sticks rated at? Maybe you could RMA them?

Very nice result on that other sempy. It'll be fun just to mess around with and have a spare/test chip around. If all goes as planned I might just have some 939 gear up for sale.


These sticks had the *#@! volted out of them and that's probrably why they went bad soooo.... there goes the warranty.









I plan on getting a few more sets before it's over with. BTW, the old sticks are rated as PC 16000, the new set is PC 13333 with both being OCZ Platinum sticks (2x1GB).


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Yes, I remember...I run memtest to see if the memory can handle the speed it's at, then I run s&m to quick test the cpu and to see if the IMC can handle the memory at a given speed, and if it passes those two tests then run prime to see if everything is as stable as it seems. That is what I have been doing.

Yesterday when prime failed after 2.5 hours, I then back tracked and ran s&m memory test and discovered that the memory speed was too [email protected] 242MHz even though it had passed memtest. I dropped back to the 166 divider which put me at 207.5MHz which passed s&m memory test. I figured that prime would do better after this adjustment, so I turned prime on and went to bed. Well when I awoke 6 hours later, to the sound of that Tornado fan.....







, I found that core#1 had failed after 1.5 hours, and core#0 was still going. Max temps of 50c(core#0), and 58c on the one that failed.

The settings were [email protected](2.5-3-2-5-1T). The one thing I think that could be a problem is the HT link being too high @ 1012....my board is only rated at 800MHz. You think that might be the cause of failure. I've noticed though that when I have forgotten to lower the HT multi when OCing, that if it's too high the computer usually won't post. Thanks for listening and contemplating the reason for my failure.









Is it common with socket 939 to OC the cpu to it's limit, AND have the RAM OCed to it's limit? Or do people usually end up with the RAM at stock speed?









EDIT: Right now I'm going to drop the HT multi to 3x and lower the memory to the 150 divider which should definitely be under it's rated speed(yup it's 182MHz) then I'm going to run prime again. Any other suggestions, I'll be here on the other computer.

quick question before testing: do you think it is likely that with a lower cpu OC that I could run the RAM at a higher speed and pass prime? Or is the IMC only capable of handling "x" speed with stability, regardless of the cpu speed?

UPDATE: failed again after 1 hour 21 minutes even after this mornings adjustments. 
I think my next step will be to resurrect the Abit AV8 K8T800pro, and see if I have any better results with that chipset. That board will allow me to adjust the chipset voltage as well as other things this board does not. I'm determined to succeed @ a stable 2.9GHz OC.


 Sorry, didn't mean to come off sounding condescending.

I'm kind of with Blitz on this, try a lower multiplier and a higher HTrefClk; also, from what I've noticed, 939's tend not to like the .5 multipliers. For whatever that's worth.

And if that still doesn't work, definitely start from scratch.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


These sticks had the *#@! volted out of them and that's probrably why they went bad soooo.... there goes the warranty.










 Well if they're toast anyway, I'd go for an RMA anyway. I mean is there really a way that they can prove that they were overvolted?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


I plan on getting a few more sets before it's over with. BTW, the old sticks are rated as PC 16000, the new set is PC 13333 with both being OCZ Platinum sticks (2x1GB).


 What's your overall opinion of OCZ RAM? That's what I'm going to use in my next build (tomorrow...can't wait!!). I believe they're 1333, what can I say, they were cheap. ~$60 for 3GB. Not bad but not great, and they're pretty.


----------



## ny_driver

EDIT: where are my manners...I should have said please tell me what happened.







I think I have to do a hot flash now in case you don't feel like reading all that.

Actually first let me tell you what happened and then you can tell me what you think happened. I installed the K8T800pro with all the same components otherwise. I think I may have caused my problem, you see, the IDE cable was too short to reach from my cd drive to the proper jack(ide#2), so I hooked it to ide#1 to see if it would work. I tried to start the computer and it didn't POST proper so I shut it down and went to reset the cmos again, but when I moved it to the "clear" position it powered the system and it was going on and off , on and off until I killed it with the switch. I then proceeded to dig and find a cable would reach and now I get only a black screen when I power on the computer. EDIT: clearing the cmos no longer powers the system, I'm going to take out the battery, clear cmos and unplug it until morning.
I tried switching memory, and re-seating the cpu.

Do you think I may have corrupted the BIOS chip or something that can be fixed? I have an extra BIOS chip for the Neo2, but it's the same type. Could I try using that and flash the BIOS on it?

EDIT:I gotta do a hot flash huh? Sounds pretty simple. I shouldn't even need the extra chip, I can just use the same one. Wish me luck.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


What is this and why would one want to do it?


This is for people who really like to play with fire...

































































Since Hueristic is not around for the moment I figured I'd add his normal input of smileys.









Basically if your NB is overheated and the solder melts and looses contact w/a couple of leads then the NB chip will fail to operate normally if it still functions at all. This same Phenomenon happens W/GPU's.

In any case we had a guy in our club doing this very thing w/his DFI NF4 mobo's and I thought I would share this w/him in case he wanted to try again w/a solder reballer template built for NF4 Chip sets.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

N2G (and everybody), my former daily driver (based on a DFI nF4 SLI-DR) gave up its RAID controller chip, which prompted me to just move on to AM3. The reason I mention this is, well, I still have the HDDs for the RAID 0 array in mothballs, with a view to perhaps someday resurrect the system.

With all these onboard chip replacement posts, perhaps someday I might build up the stones to try that with a broken RAID controller chip.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


N2G (and everybody), my former daily driver (based on a DFI nF4 SLI-DR) gave up its RAID controller chip, which prompted me to just move on to AM3. The reason I mention this is, well, I still have the HDDs for the RAID 0 array in mothballs, with a view to perhaps someday resurrect the system.

With all these onboard chip replacement posts, perhaps someday I might build up the stones to try that with a broken RAID controller chip.
























LOL your stones would be bigger then mine atm. Then again I would prolly grow a larger set of stones if in the same situation.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well if they're toast anyway, I'd go for an RMA anyway. I mean is there really a way that they can prove that they were overvolted?

What's your overall opinion of OCZ RAM? That's what I'm going to use in my next build (tomorrow...can't wait!!). I believe they're 1333, what can I say, they were cheap. ~$60 for 3GB. Not bad but not great, and they're pretty.










Yes, they will be able to tell if they had excessive voltage ran through them and believe me, I had some volts going to them at the time they started acting up. They still work at DDR2 speeds with no errors so not a big issue - I'll keep them around "Just in case" the worst happens.

OCZ RAM has always been good to me and the 2x 1GB 1333 Platinum sticks I just got will go 1600 with 1.9v's to them. 
One thing I've noted over time with OCZ sticks vs others is that the thoroughput of data going through them at the same MHz as other sticks just seems faster. Corsair XMS sticks are also good but at the same MHz and timings, the OCZ's have always given slightly better results such as when doing a run in Super PI. 
Patriot RAM is another I like and they seem to be quick as well, similar to the OCZ's. Out of the brands I've used before regardless of socket platform, OCZ, Patriot and Corsair have done very well with OCZ and Patriot being the one's that really seem to fly. Corsair sticks will clock and have to be fine-tuned to get results similar to the OCZ's and Patriot sticks without all the tweaking in comparision. Crucial sticks will run but they are finiky as we all know and not as compatable as other sticks tend to be for some reason. I know my MSI MB doesn't support them and I've stayed away from them for that very reason alone. 
Nothing wrong with the Corsair sticks if that's what you prefer and I have a few sets of DDR that's been awesome and withstood some crazy voltages so far. I just prefer the OCZ's since I've had the best results with them as a trend so far. 
I mean look at what I've been doing with mine and let that tell you why I like them as well as I do. 
BTW, what exactly did you get anyway? Hopefully the Plats since other OCZ variants may not perform as well as these do.


----------



## ny_driver

whoooohoooo! the board lives after taking out battery etc. overnight. For some reason though it isn't seeing my sata HD????








EDIT: I got it figured out...whew!







Darn it, I was looking forward to doing the hot flash.

You know what I have noticed so far is that cpuz gives me the same voltage reading as the multimeter on this Abit board....that's quite a refreshing change.

Another thing, I can boot right up @ 2.9GHz with only 1.39v....and when running s&m the voltage reading on the meter is only .01-.02 higher as opposed to .05 higher on the Neo2 Platinum. I think that Neo2 is junk(both of them), although they still work fine. I don't know why I replaced this board in the first place.









EDIT: I still need 1.45v to pass s&m. I haven't tried running prime or adjusting the NB voltage or anything else yet. I re-seated the HS because the temps were a little hotter today, and when I was attempting to re-install the HS with my absolute last drop of AS5(or any TIM for that matter) I broke the tab off the retention bracket.







Fortunately I have an extra retention bracket, but I had to reuse the same TIM that was already on the cpu and HS(which I know will not work optimally). So I'm done testing until this afternoon when I get my tube of Radio Shack "pigeon poop" as BO likes to call it.








The list of things I like better about this board is growing long.


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, unless I am mistaken, the K8T800 pro is a newer chipset. If memory serves me, it was designed for the 939 platform. By comparison, the nForce 3 chip was designed for Socket 754 single-core processors. It was shoe-horned into the new platform so manufactures had a quick and effective way to move old stock before the nForce 4 came into full production. This reason is why nVidia cites that it cannot fix the Vista + dual core + ATi graphics issue. However, when Vista first went live, Via and SiS had the same problems... they provided patches. That means, if you wanted, you can go Windows 7 now, in theory.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Yes, they will be able to tell if they had excessive voltage ran through them and believe me, I had some volts going to them at the time they started acting up. They still work at DDR2 speeds with no errors so not a big issue - I'll keep them around "Just in case" the worst happens.

OCZ RAM has always been good to me and the 2x 1GB 1333 Platinum sticks I just got will go 1600 with 1.9v's to them. 
One thing I've noted over time with OCZ sticks vs others is that the thoroughput of data going through them at the same MHz as other sticks just seems faster. Corsair XMS sticks are also good but at the same MHz and timings, the OCZ's have always given slightly better results such as when doing a run in Super PI. 
Patriot RAM is another I like and they seem to be quick as well, similar to the OCZ's. Out of the brands I've used before regardless of socket platform, OCZ, Patriot and Corsair have done very well with OCZ and Patriot being the one's that really seem to fly. Corsair sticks will clock and have to be fine-tuned to get results similar to the OCZ's and Patriot sticks without all the tweaking in comparision. Crucial sticks will run but they are finiky as we all know and not as compatable as other sticks tend to be for some reason. I know my MSI MB doesn't support them and I've stayed away from them for that very reason alone. 
Nothing wrong with the Corsair sticks if that's what you prefer and I have a few sets of DDR that's been awesome and withstood some crazy voltages so far. I just prefer the OCZ's since I've had the best results with them as a trend so far. 
I mean look at what I've been doing with mine and let that tell you why I like them as well as I do. 
BTW, what exactly did you get anyway? Hopefully the Plats since other OCZ variants may not perform as well as these do.


OCZ makes no specific mention to overvolting. Though they do specifically say your warranty if void if you mod the RAM. I highly doubt they can tell how much voltage you put through it. Especially if they still run. And besides I think it would be more of a hassle for them to haggle with you about it than it would be to just replace them.


----------



## Blitz6804

Even assume they cannot tell if you overvolted past the EVP point: it is still dishonest to break a product and then claim it was defective.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Even assume they cannot tell if you overvolted past the EVP point: it is still dishonest to break a product and then claim it was defective.

Very True however I'd like to point out. Even if they were overvolted and if they were under proper cooling. Then they could possibly not be damaged just from the overvolting alone.

Chances are they were damaged by this overvolting but they could have already had something wrong w/them From factory testing, Handling, Packaging or any other oddball anomolie and this overvolting may have just found the defect that much sooner. Either way we will never really know for sure which is the case.


----------



## ny_driver

I'm looking for a modded bios for the Abit AV8. Does anyone know where to find one maybe?
For some reason the multiplier is completely locked. The option is not "grayed out" or anything, you just don't get a drop-down with your choices like you do for all other options on the page.
At the bottom of the page it says to use +/-/PU/PD to make changes. I have been just using the arrows and "enter" and "esc". What does that +/-/PU/PD mean? Maybe I'm being dumb and not comprehending how to adjust it. Help please.


----------



## Blitz6804

The + key, the - key, the page up, and page down keys.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


The + key, the - key, the page up, and page down keys.


Thanks I wasn't sure, but I didn't try the page up/down keys.







I'm going to go try it.

EDIT: I'm back. That was correct blitz, Rep for you. 
Why the heck would they make that one option require special keys to adjust when everything else you just hit "enter" and you get a drop-down?
Some kind of special security precaution I guess.
That was the main reason I wanted to replace this board







what an idiot.

Bringing this board back has been a blessing, big-time. When I re-installed the video drivers they defaulted to lower settings than I usually use which caused me to get a big FPS boost. This prompted me to do some experimenting with different settings....I discovered that if I leave it set to 6x and 16x and use quality trilinear with the trilinear filtering optimazion, but don't turn on adaptive anti-aliasing or high quality anisotropic filtering I get at least 5 FPS more on the minimum, average, and max #'s and I can turn shadow quality to "high" and draw distance to "very far". Minimum is now ~28 and an average of ~45 on the worst FPS track. EDIT: (I don't notice that I lost anything by turning those off. It's just smoother.) It's like having a whole new computer








EDIT: I don't even need to overclock it higher now........I just want to.


----------



## Blitz6804

I personally leave my CCC to "Application managed," and then turn each game up to its highest settings.


----------



## redhat_ownage

i got my 555BE yesterday and i got this screen shot 5hours later
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...ge/ddr1333.jpg


----------



## mattliston

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I personally leave my CCC to "Application managed," and then turn each game up to its highest settings.

if thats on your sig rig, no wonder why you son of a bi...gun!!

you have a 5970


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage* 
i got my 555BE yesterday and i got this screen shot 5hours later
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...ge/ddr1333.jpg

That's pretty awesome!








Did you get that board yet?


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mattliston* 
if thats on your sig rig, no wonder why
. . .
you have a 5970
















I can run almost anything maxed out. Crysis alludes me still, permitting only 4xAA. Besides, I have always played games that way, even with a solo HD 3850: leave CCC alone and adjust the game as needed.

With this card, in CoD4, I could force 16x AA if I wanted (32x AA is still unplayable even with my hardware) provided I leave it multi-sample AA. As adaptive multi-sample, it must be 8x AA or lower. As super-sample AA, even 4x AA will cause me to go below 40 FPS. When I first replaced my HD 4870x2s with the HD 5970, I thought it was broken because my FPS was so much lower. Then I found out the HD 5970 defaulted to super-sample.


----------



## redhat_ownage

haven't got it yet but it should be here today
ups says its out for delivery.


----------



## mattliston

@blitz too much AA can bring those sharp edges and blocky-ness back

2-8x AA is perfectly fine!


----------



## Blitz6804

I beg to differ... CoD4 at 32x AA is the prettiest little slide show you will ever see!


----------



## mattliston

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


I beg to differ... CoD4 at 32x AA is the prettiest little slide show you will ever see!


----------



## Blitz6804

This is the game at 4x Multi-sample AA... the FPS is capped at 85 in the game:









Compare with when I force 16x Super-Sample AA... the FPS is holding about 15 where I am standing in this shot:









I have tried to upload the raw copies (read: not cropped) and the uploads of both the .ZIP and the .RAR have failed, despite both being only 8 MB, and far below the 200 MB OCN limit.


----------



## redhat_ownage

just got the board right now
the chip that turns the 5V standby voltage into 3.3v that the board need to boot is fried
im going to try to replace it, and the burnt mosfet. to see if i can get it going if not then ill pull the northbridge.

edit: ny driver if you could take a look at your board and tell me what is written on this chip it would be great


----------



## ny_driver

1 minute......that chip says 
AMP7313
MH1FJ

The board worked when I unplugged it.


----------



## ny_driver

I sent someone to Radio Shack to get TIM for me and they came back with this after I called the store and told them I wanted cheap silicone stuff. Maybe this is the cheap stuff they have now, who knows? 
The stuff is terrible.......idling @ 40/40c now. It was idling @~38/38c so I re-did it.
I must be using too much because it can't be this bad of a product.









EDIT: wow I just reseated it for 2nd time and its [email protected]~40-41c and hitting 65 in s&m. It wasn't even hitting 65 in s&m yesterday @ 1.5v with regular AS5. The CPU was running 7-8c cooler today after I had to pull the HS off and replace the retention bracket and put the HS back on without replacing the TIM. This is absolutely ridiculous.

EDIT: I guess I'll try tinting the HS like it says in the instructions http://www.arcticsilver.com/pdf/appi..._dual_wcap.pdf .......oooohhhh what a waste of time that was.







I know it says it can take up to 25 hours and several thermal cycles to cure, but I don't see it dropping 8 degrees.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Very True however I'd like to point out. Even if they were overvolted and if they were under proper cooling. Then they could possibly not be damaged just from the overvolting alone.

Chances are they were damaged by this overvolting but they could have already had something wrong w/them From factory testing, Handling, Packaging or any other oddball anomolie and this overvolting may have just found the defect that much sooner. Either way we will never really know for sure which is the case.


That's true - You'll never really know but I guess it coudn't hurt to see if they would honor it anyway. 
The sticks are less than a year old and I know their warranty goes for at least that long of a time. I'll see if they will do it and keep my fingers crossed.
As for how I'm liking the new 1333 sticks, here's something I pulled off earlier today with great cooling working for them and note the timings used with the RAM speed achieved.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I sent someone to Radio Shack to get TIM for me and they came back with this after I called the store and told them I wanted cheap silicone stuff. Maybe this is the cheap stuff they have now, who knows? 
The stuff is terrible.......idling @ 40/40c now. It was idling @~38/38c so I re-did it.
I must be using too much because it can't be this bad of a product.









EDIT: wow I just reseated it for 2nd time and its [email protected]~40-41c and hitting 65 in s&m. It wasn't even hitting 65 in s&m yesterday @ 1.5v with regular AS5. The CPU was running 7-8c cooler today after I had to pull the HS off and replace the retention bracket and put the HS back on without replacing the TIM. This is absolutely ridiculous.

EDIT: I guess I'll try tinting the HS like it says in the instructions http://www.arcticsilver.com/pdf/appi..._dual_wcap.pdf .......oooohhhh what a waste of time that was.







I know it says it can take up to 25 hours and several thermal cycles to cure, but I don't see it dropping 8 degrees.


Arctic Silver Ceramique is one of THE WORST pastes to use for Air or Water cooling.

It's whole purpose is to be used with Phase Change or LN2/DICE/LHe cooling.


----------



## playah

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Arctic Silver Ceramique is one of THE WORST pastes to use for Air or Water cooling.

It's whole purpose is to be used with Phase Change or LN2/DICE/LHe cooling.


I've used it for years and love it, just finished an oc run @ 3GHz for 36hrs and temps never went over 50c on a Ultra D with a x2 3800


----------



## N2Gaming

I think most non Value OCZ ram is covered w/lifetime waranty.

Oh BTW I'm loving that DDR3-1722.6 ram speed Kryton right along w/that 4.2GHz cpu spd.


----------



## ny_driver

I just ordered some OCZ freeze extreme....it gets a A in this review of 80 thermal compounds
http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.ph...=150&Itemid=62
On page 10 they start handing out the grades.








I sure hope this Ceramique gets a little better tomorrow. I'm probably going to re-lap my cpu and core contact freezer tomorrow...get that IHS a litttttttle thinner and maybe get the CCF a little smoother, too.


----------



## Blitz6804

Have you checked the tightness of the CCF on the IHS? Most heat sinks are not as tight as they can be. With a bolt-on/through, it is very easy to shim it however.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *playah*


I've used it for years and love it, just finished an oc run @ 3GHz for 36hrs and temps never went over 50c on a Ultra D with a x2 3800


Have to agree - I'm using it with the AM3 and on air and with 1.48+v's, it remained around 35C or lower with a stock 939 Opty cooler. These 140 Sempys do run rather cool so that helps as well.
I had some airflow moving through the case so that definitley helped and so far, so good. I've used MX-2 and regular AS5 with success too and like the MX-2 since it's cheap and works well enough. Only con I know of is it can harden to a semi-plastic texture after awhile but still conducts heat as it did when first applied.

N2, I'll definitely see if they will RMA it and maybe get some replacement sticks in. 
Glad these sticks run as well as they do for the stock rating they have.


----------



## N2Gaming

Good Luck Kryton.


----------



## welshd1k

ohh 939 stuff







i haz lots of 939 stuff in a box under my desk


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Have you checked the tightness of the CCF on the IHS? Most heat sinks are not as tight as they can be. With a bolt-on/through, it is very easy to shim it however.

How would you go about shimming it?







What would you shim exactly. It's already a tight squeeze to get the HS to latch over the tab on the retention bracket. It's definitely on there pretty snug, but if a little tighter I would need less of this TIM.







I could try that along with the re-lapping.


----------



## Blitz6804

Every time you lap the surfaces, you exacerbate the problem. That is, there is less material between the interfaces, thereby making the mount looser. With a bolt-down mount, it is very easy to drop some SAE #10 washers on the retaining screws in increase the downward pressure. The harder method is the more-traditional one I ripped off *cough* borrowed from Txtmstrjoe, which involves taking U.S. currency in between the bracket and the heat sink. Having done both, the SAE #10 washers are easier and have a greater compatibility.

On a clip-on mechanism, things are a little harder. What you would likely need to do is pull out the sand paper (belt sander?) and physically make the mounting bracket shorter. The obvious danger with this is that if you remove material, the bracket necessarily becomes more susceptible to breaking.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Every time you lap the surfaces, you exacerbate the problem. That is, there is less material between the interfaces, thereby making the mount looser. With a bolt-down mount, it is very easy to drop some SAE #10 washers on the retaining screws in increase the downward pressure. The harder method is the more-traditional one I ripped off *cough* borrowed from Txtmstrjoe, which involves taking U.S. currency in between the bracket and the heat sink. Having done both, the SAE #10 washers are easier and have a greater compatibility.

On a clip-on mechanism, things are a little harder. What you would likely need to do is pull out the sand paper (belt sander?) and physically make the mounting bracket shorter. The obvious danger with this is that if you remove material, the bracket necessarily becomes more susceptible to breaking.


Thanks. I am pretty sure it is very tight. I lapped the heck out of the HS, only the 2 center heatpipes were even touching the cpu. I sanded them down a lot so now all 4 heatpipes are making good contact. It's going to be a lot better.

Right now though, I cannot get my mobo to see my SATA HD. I've been through the BIOS 10 times over, then I even flashed the BIOS in hopes that would help. Maybe my HD just died....is there anything I could do to revive it if that is the case? Please help me.

EDIT: the HD works on my other system. I can see it on the POST screen, but when I try to get to windows I get the endless windows loading screen. When I tried running windows setup disk to try to repair and it doesn't find any HD on my system.

I never installed any SATA drivers before, but I do have a floppy labeled SATA Driver Disk that came with the mobo. It's not a boot disk though so I don't see how to use it. I think it may just be RAID drivers though. Hmmmm....


----------



## Blitz6804

You open the Windows CD, then press F6 during boot (where it says press F6 if you need to load third-party SCSI or RAID drivers) to get the driver off the floppy. Windows Vista and Windows 7 both natively support SATA.


----------



## ny_driver

It finally decided to work right. I couldn't install any drivers off that floppy.
Anyways my idle temps are now, after 1 good thermal cycle, 32c and 30c







...and the funny thing is I accidentally tipped up the HS after the initial pressing into place, so I'm positive air got in there and I have to re-seat it.









EDIT: I guess reseating it didn't make much difference....still 32/30. Nice improvement overall though. I wonder how the load temps will be. Shouldn't break 60, but I have a feeling it will. It's only staying cool right now because their is twice as much HS surface area touching the CPU, but I still have that garbage Ceramique in there. I'll update a little later.

UPDATE: yup it hit 68c and I stopped it. That's terrible. I have to blame the thermal compound. That's very frustrating after all the work I did today to have only my idle temps better.


----------



## pioneerisloud




----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
BTW, what exactly did you get anyway? Hopefully the Plats since other OCZ variants may not perform as well as these do.

I just got some OCZ golds, like I said they were ~$65 shipped for a triple channel kit.

The rest of the rig is an Evga x58 3x SLI, i7 920. And I'm going to run my 2 Evga 9600GSO's in it just for kicks and giggles. I wonder if I can run Crysis maxed with full AA and get playable framerates......









Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I personally leave my CCC to "Application managed," and then turn each game up to its highest settings.

I do the same thing. Adjusting it for each game would be a pain in the ass, not to mention, time consuming.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage* 
i got my 555BE yesterday and i got this screen shot 5hours later
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...ge/ddr1333.jpg

Very nice redhat!









Did you try to unlock it yet?

@Pio









Sort of OT:
Hey guys my modem/router up and died on me yesterday, picked up a temporary for the time being.

Do you guys know of any _good_ DSL modem/router/WAN all in ones that are good quality, durable, with a good warranty, and not ungodly expensive?


----------



## redhat_ownage

Quote:


Originally Posted by *welshd1k* 
ohh 939 stuff







i haz lots of 939 stuff in a box under my desk









share the wealth yo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Very nice redhat!









Did you try to unlock it yet?

it wont unlock on this board and i dont know why
im going to try it on my brothers board later.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
The rest of the rig is an Evga x58 3x SLI, i7 920. And I'm going to run my 2 Evga 9600GSO's in it just for kicks and giggles. I wonder if I can run Crysis maxed with full AA and get playable framerates......









I wanna put my bingo chips on "no." While Cryfail seems to have a massive bias towards Intel rigs, a pair of 9600 GSOs likely will not be enough to max it. For the record, at 1080p, 16x QSAA, Dx10, UH Spec, I get an average FPS of 38.68 in the Crysis Benchmark Tool. (Windows 7; ~100 processes running at the time.) The min is 15.72 FPS and the maximum is 59.51.

The same settings at 2560x2048 turned in the low teens for an average, 0 FPS for a minimum if I remember right; too lazy to rerun right now.

I usually run 1080p, 4x AA, Dx10, UH spec, which is gets 40.59 average, 19.86 minimum, and 59.32 maximum. (While this sounds almost the same as 16xQ, watching the video tells a different story. 16xQ microstutters something fierce; 4x is almost smooth. In game, 4x actually is smooth.)

For the absolute laughability of it, 800x600, 0x AA, Dx10, L Spec, gets an average of 88.01, a minimum of 87.58, and a maximum of 142.87. The game looks like a butt, but it runs LIKE BUDDAH at those settings.

The Core i7 would beat me clock-for-clock, but hands down, my HD 5970 has the 9600 GSOs beat. Considering how CPU-bound Crysis is... I think this could be an interesting comparison afterall.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I wanna put my bingo chips on "no." While Cryfail seems to have a massive bias towards Intel rigs, a pair of 9600 GSOs likely will not be enough to max it. For the record, at 1080p, 16x QSAA, Dx10, UH Spec, I get an average FPS of 38.68 in the Crysis Benchmark Tool. (Windows 7; ~100 processes running at the time.) The min is 15.72 FPS and the maximum is 59.51.

The same settings at 2560x2048 turned in the low teens for an average, 0 FPS for a minimum if I remember right; too lazy to rerun right now.

I usually run 1080p, 4x AA, Dx10, UH spec, which is gets 40.59 average, 19.86 minimum, and 59.32 maximum. (While this sounds almost the same as 16xQ, watching the video tells a different story. 16xQ microstutters something fierce; 4x is almost smooth. In game, 4x actually is smooth.)

For the absolute laughability of it, 800x600, 0x AA, Dx10, L Spec, gets an average of 88.01, a minimum of 87.58, and a maximum of 142.87. The game looks like a butt, but it runs LIKE BUDDAH at those settings.

The Core i7 would beat me clock-for-clock, but hands down, my HD 5970 has the 9600 GSOs beat. Considering how CPU-bound Crysis is... I think this could be an interesting comparison afterall.

That's exactly what I noticed the other day, just how much Crysis is CPU bound. Since getting MSI afterburner (love it!), I've been watching GPU utilization on certain games. I set my rig back to stock clocks with RAM @ 1333 CAS 7, and I noticed that my GPU utilization was only @ 44/45% and I was getting some fairly low frame rates. Overclocked the GPUs' get utilized more.

That and I really just want to see how bottlenecked the GSO's were by the 939 rig. And they were bottlenecked quite a bit since adding a second card only increased my 3dm06 score but 100 points.









This will be quite interesting indeed.









I'm also going to do some temp comparison testing between the stock Intel cooler, which is actually quite large, and my DK.








FWIW, the Xiggy DK mounting mechanism for LGA775/1366 is actually pretty nice; it's a nice bolt through design with spring bolts.

1 last observation, I noticed that Intel CPU's are convex. I was half tempted to lap it before I looked at it, now I probably wont. @ stock speed it idles @ 27C in a 20C room with the stock cooler. Not bad at all. It'll probably be a week before I get to OCing it though, gotta read up on all the weird names and what they do.

Hey off the top of your head is Intel speed step the same as cool n quiet?


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
It finally decided to work right. I couldn't install any drivers off that floppy.
Anyways my idle temps are now, after 1 good thermal cycle, 32c and 30c







...and the funny thing is I accidentally tipped up the HS after the initial pressing into place, so I'm positive air got in there and I have to re-seat it.









EDIT: I guess reseating it didn't make much difference....still 32/30. Nice improvement overall though. I wonder how the load temps will be. Shouldn't break 60, but I have a feeling it will. It's only staying cool right now because their is twice as much HS surface area touching the CPU, but I still have that garbage Ceramique in there. I'll update a little later.

UPDATE: yup it hit 68c and I stopped it. That's terrible. I have to blame the thermal compound. That's very frustrating after all the work I did today to have only my idle temps better.









In regards to this post and my temperatures, how would you explain the idle temps being 30-32c after I did my re-lapping, 40-41c when I went to bed, 38-39c first thing this morning.....then I was about to go re-seat it again, but I decided to come back and look at the temps 1 more time, and when I opened up core temp and HWmonitor the idle temps are 29 and 26c? I'm not sure if I am good or bad here. I've mounted this HS about 50 times now, I'm getting pretty good at it. Any ideas? Thanks.
EDIT: either way, idling at 40c or idling at 30c I get 65+ during the FPU test.

EDIT: good idle temps and very bad load temps equals what?

re-EDIT: now at 11:15 idle temps are back up to 40c with zero % load? I'm going to re-seat the HS 1 more time. It seems like the temp. sensors in the cpu must be messed up. I can't think of another explanation for the huge fluctuation in idle temps. I'll take pictures of cpu and HS after removal so you can see the TIM.


----------



## Blitz6804

BlackOmega: Yes. EIST, or Enhanced Intel Speedstep Technology is the equivalent of AMD's Cool 'n' Quiet. Where it differs however is that it does not just adjust the multiplier and the voltage. To wit, on my Merom, the FSB also steps down as needed. So the multi is either 6x or 12x, and the FSB is somewhere between 50 MHz and 200 MHz as need demands.

ny_drive: Good idle temps and poor load temps seem to indicate to me a low ambient temperature and a poor cooler. Ambient temperatures play a huge role in deciding your idle temperature, which is why txtmstrjoe will never be able to touch my idle temps. You load temperature on the other hand is very dependent on the cooler's ability and general case flow and less-so on ambient temperature. If you have a snarled mass of wires in the case, very low speed case fans, or some other thing depriving the cooler of air, you will expect higher load temps. Here, airspeed and volume are more determinative than ambient temperature, which is why I will never be able to touch txtmstrjoe's load temps. I must have a basically quiet computer or I go crazy; id est, my goal is to keep it under 30 dBA whenever possible; it is running right now at an estimated 35 dBA and it bugs me at times.*

For the record, 30 dBA results when my fans spin at about 1000 RPM, or 44 CFM. 35 dBA results around 1300 RPM, or an estimated 58 CFM. Running full tilt, 133 CFM, the PC comes in around 51.9 dBA. Chuck the GPU in there at 100% fan speed (adding 63.8 dBA) brings me up to 64.1 dBA overall. Translation: way too fancy loud. Increasing the noise level that far however, by about 812-fold, does decrease my load temps by about 10Âº C for the CPU, 13Âº C for the GPU, and 20Âº C for the GPU PWM. Considering I am within thermal spec at my current settings however, I can go with a quieter setting. If I wanted to overclock further, I would need to get the earplugs out. EDIT: {Running at 30 dBA is not feasible in the long run; I approach 60Âº C on the CPU cores now. When summer comes, I would be over thermal spec. Yes, the role of ambient in your load temperature is much less significant than in your idle, but it still plays a role. For testing's sake, I had increased my ambient by about 5Âº C via the fireplace earlier in the winter. My load temperature went up by about 4Âº C.}

*Aside of the volume listed for the GPU, at 63.8 dBA, all noise levels are computed by me based on reported noise values by either reviews or manufacturers for all components in my case.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 

ny_drive: Good idle temps and poor load temps seem to indicate to me a low ambient temperature and a poor cooler. Ambient temperatures play a huge role in deciding your idle temperature, which is why txtmstrjoe will never be able to touch my idle temps. You load temperature on the other hand is very dependent on the cooler's ability and general case flow and less-so on ambient temperature. If you have a snarled mass of wires in the case, very low speed case fans, or some other thing depriving the cooler of air, you will expect higher load temps. Here, airspeed and volume are more determinative than ambient temperature, which is why I will never be able to touch txtmstrjoe's load temps. I must have a basically quiet computer or I go crazy; id est, my goal is to keep it under 30 dBA whenever possible; it is running right now at an estimated 35 dBA and it bugs me at times.*

Hmmmm...your reasoning makes good sense. My computer sounds like a leaf blower. There is tons of air coming in and blowing out the chimney. It's ~21c in here most of the time...sometimes lower. My current idle temps are 31/29c.
Haven't tried load yet since the latest re-seating. I think that my application of TIM and HS is getting better though. My temps were very acceptable when I was using the regular AS5, so I'm leaning away from the cooler being the problem and looking at the TIM still. I'll do a load test after I eat something.

EDIT: now all of a sudden we're back up to idling at 43/41c. EDIT: and now 1 minute later back to 33/31c


----------



## Blitz6804

Very likely the TIM knowing Ceramique's reputation. However, idle temps of about 8Âº C over ambient is not bad at all. I usually have my CPU temp as the same exact temp as ambient, my Core temp is about 8Âº C hotter, just like yours.

EDIT: {I apologize; I forgot to qualify that. That is when Cool 'n' Quiet kicks in. If I disable Cool 'n' Quiet, my CPU reads 4Âº C over ambient, the Core 12Âº C over ambient.}


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Very likely the TIM knowing Ceramique's reputation. However, idle temps of about 8Âº C over ambient is not bad at all. I usually have my CPU temp as the same exact temp as ambient, my Core temp is about 8Âº C hotter, just like yours.

EDIT: {I apologize; I forgot to qualify that. That is when Cool 'n' Quiet kicks in. If I disable Cool 'n' Quiet, my CPU reads 4Âº C over ambient, the Core 12Âº C over ambient.}

My cputemp and core temps are very close to each other as I have a tornado fan blowing on the cpu socket. Idle temps are ~12c over ambient though, usually. the thing that makes me scratch my head the most though, is the sudden jumps from 30c to 40c idle temps and then back again all at zero load.
EDIT: read my last edit.


----------



## Blitz6804

Do you have Cool 'n' Quiet enabled? It sounds to me that sometimes when you look at the temperatures it is running at 240x5 (1200 MHz) at 1.180 V, and other times it is running at 240x12 (2880 MHz) at 1.430 V. The voltage difference alone could explain the difference.


----------



## ny_driver

It's disabled.
I just tested at 1.40v/2.8GHz and got 62c in s&m L1 test...that's ridiculous and I stopped it. I was testing at 1.45v/2.9GHz with the AS5 and max temps in fpu were only 56/63c.
I know that my lapping doubled the amount of surface area touching the cpu(all 4 heatpipes are touching it now.) I can't believe that the TIM is that bad of a product, but it sure seems that way. OCZ freeze should be here in a few days and then we will get to the bottom of this. I'll probably have to try reseating it again, using almost no TIM and see if it's any better.

I'm trying to think of what I could make an experimental TIM out of.


----------



## Blitz6804

I hear ketchup works surprisingly well. I cannot imagine it would work better than a market TIM, but stranger things have happened. Remember to fill the cracks between the heat pipes that the surface of your heatsink is level before putting the TIM on the IHS and applying the heatsink. Know however, that the ketchup is a pain in the neck to clean off I hear.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I hear ketchup works surprisingly well. I cannot imagine it would work better than a market TIM, but stranger things have happened. Remember to fill the cracks between the heat pipes that the surface of your heatsink is level before putting the TIM on the IHS and applying the heatsink. Know however, that the ketchup is a pain in the neck to clean off I hear.

I tried using a different cooler, and it's better. Same idle temps, but load temps are much better. Now using the stock Opteron heatpipe cooler w/ a Vantec Tornado fan on top. Apparently that CCF is not very good, although it looks like a good design. It was better with AS5. And b.t.w. the surface is so lapped that the cracks are almost gone. I need a really good cooler for this cpu I guess, if I must overclock it......and I must. I'm not sure what to get. Money is not really an issue...I'll spend what I have to. I'm finally, actually, going back to work Monday.







Any suggestions would be cool. I wanted to buy that Corsair H50, but it isn't exactly compatible. I wonder if it could be made to work somehow, or if there is a similar product available that is compatible?


----------



## Blitz6804

One of the best air coolers available for the 939 platform is the Thermalright Ultra-120 Extreme. It WILL be need to be lapped out of the box; guaranteed. Also a very good cooler is the Xigmatek Dark Knight. Both, by default, come with spring mechanisms, but bolt-through kits are available for either, the Ultra-120 Extreme being more-readily had. If you are intent on going for a water cooling kit, I believe the Swiftech H20-220 Compact supports Socket 939; I know for a fact the H20-120 Compact did.


----------



## ny_driver

I took a blow torch to the motherboard tray today.







I wanted the back of the cpu socket to be able to get some air from the fan I have mounted on that side cover. I don't think it really made any difference, but here is a picture of the hole I made. It's just as solid as it was, but definitely better airflow.









EDIT: I didn't mean I was going to spend over $200 on a cooler







...it doesn't look like the H20-220 supports 939 anyways.

I was looking at this Chill-Tec Thermo Electric cooler for $129. I don't want to get another air cooler and not be satisfied.


----------



## BlackOmega

ny_driver, some good coolers you can try, Thermalright Ultra 120 extreme (have no experience with mwave). It on par with coolers like the Prolimatech Megahalems (claimed to be the best air heatsink) however you would need to contact prolimatech and get the AM2 retention kit (should work but you would need a pic to verify) and you would also need to buy a fan for it.

Or you can get a Xigmatek Dark Knight it works well, has a nice white LED fan that has good output (89 CFM max) but it is also a heatpipe direct touch cooler, FWIW the one I bought is perfectly flat (checked with a straight edge).

Scythe Mugen 2 a latecomer but is almost on par with the Ultra 120 extreme and the Megahalems. It supposedly a little better than the Xigmatek dark knight.

And if you're in the mood for some lapping, Thermaltake Big Typhoon (refurb), by far the cheapest of all the coolers ($20 shipped), works very well but I can guarantee that it WILL need to be lapped. Mine was warped pretty bad, and the bolt through retention mechanism works very well. 
Keeps my 720 @ 3.6Ghz @ 1.488v under 50C after 16 hours of prime 95; during normal use I have yet to see it hit 40C.

EDIT: LOLOLOLOL!!!!! Nice blowtorch work


----------



## Blitz6804

As I own a Prolimatech Megahalems and an AM2 mounting bracket, I can tell you it will not mount on most 939 boards. In order to make it work, you would need to drill four holes around the socket to make room for the posts. I bought the bracket here myself. In fact, I buy from FrozenCPU most coolers and fans whenever possible due to their low costs and fast shipping.

A huge advantage to having torched your case: you can now change motherboard backplates without needing to remove the motherboard... Win!


----------



## BlackOmega

ny_driver, I found some pics I have of my lapped Big Typhoon and how it mounts.

Here is a pic of the base, as you can see by the outline, its base is rather large, easily more than enough to contact the whole IHS of the CPU. Also, if you'll notice in the center where it is discolored, that's where most of the heat transfer takes place. That occurred during a suicide run with my 3800x2 (700 MHz OC on a Manchester).










Here's a pic of it installed on my AM3 setup. Note the retention bracket. And yes, it is rather big and heavy (813g), but once lapped it cools very well.










EDIT: That bracket also works well on 939 boards. But DO NOT adhere the backplate to the board, it is seriously difficult to remove; I had to cut it off of my CFX3200, it was very nerve wracking to say the least.


----------



## ny_driver

Idle temps are @ 42/42c again.







...and in a little while they will probably go back to ~30. It's not the cooler or the thermal paste, because it was doing the exact same thing before I switched coolers. The temp. sensors are apparently out of whack. I can't think of another explanation.


----------



## BlackOmega

That very well could be the case. However, as Blitz mentioned earlier, idle temps are somewhat irrelevant as long as your load temps are OK.

Certain AMD CPUs', especially some AM2/AM2+ had some serious issues with their temp sensors. People would report idling at 45C yet only loading at 50.

As long as your load temps are ok, then you should be fine.

When did it start doing this? Was gone for pretty much a couple days (modem death).


----------



## ny_driver

I don't recall exactly when, but I thought it was just a freak thing. I just tested and the load temps were a few degrees higher.......too high 58/69c. I'm surprised you never noticed it fluctuating like it does. It usually runs ~30-32c, but now its at 42c with zero load.

I'm seriously looking at this....http://www.xoxide.com/ultra-chilltech-cpu-cooler.html
What do you guys think? Or maybe not.


----------



## Blitz6804

If I remember right, it is a good idea in concept, but reviews showed that it did not perform as expected for most rigs.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I don't recall exactly when, but I thought it was just a freak thing. I just tested and the load temps were a few degrees higher.......too high 58/69c. I'm surprised you never noticed it fluctuating like it does. It usually runs ~30-32c, but now its at 42c with zero load.

I'm seriously looking at this....http://www.xoxide.com/ultra-chilltech-cpu-cooler.html
What do you guys think?


 It didn't fluctuate for me. The only temperature anomaly I noticed was the delta between the cores. And the core that idles cooler usually loads hotter. It always idled ~29/30C and loaded ~62/63C. The hottest it ever saw was 65C (coretemp). 
It was rock solid at idle.

As Blitz said about the Chilltec, it's a great idea, but it doesn't cool well enough to warrant it's high price tag. The Megahalems, TRUE beat it.

Quite honestly, for the money, that Scythe Mugen 2 is your best bet. It was only like 2 or 3 C worse than the TRUE/Megahalems.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I'm seriously looking at this....http://www.xoxide.com/ultra-chilltech-cpu-cooler.html
What do you guys think? Or maybe not.


Long story short: Air coolers cannot dissipate the heat transfer of a TEC well.

If you're going air cooling







Ranked in Performance)
Noctua D14
Cogage Arrow + Bracket
Thermalright VenomousX + Bracket
 Titan Fernir


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


It didn't fluctuate for me. The only temperature anomaly I noticed was the delta between the cores. And the core that idles cooler usually loads hotter. It always idled ~29/30C and loaded ~62/63C. The hottest it ever saw was 65C (coretemp). 
It was rock solid at idle.

As Blitz said about the Chilltec, it's a great idea, but it doesn't cool well enough to warrant it's high price tag. The Megahalems, TRUE beat it.

Quite honestly, for the money, that Scythe Mugen 2 is your best bet. It was only like 2 or 3 C worse than the TRUE/Megahalems.


I see that chill tec is not all it's cracked up to be. I need to get something serious though, this cpu is too hot. I don't want to see it breaking 60c @ 2.8GHz/1.43v. I guess I'll figure out something to get over the next couple days. I'd rather spend less than more, but like I said I don't want to see 60c again.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
I see that chill tec is not all it's cracked up to be. I need to get something serious though, this cpu is too hot. I don't want to see it breaking 60c @ 2.8GHz/1.43v. I guess I'll figure out something to get over the next couple days. I'd rather spend less than more, but like I said I don't want to see 60c again.

Well any of the coolers we listed should keep your CPU rather cool. The more expensive ones are better, but the Big Typhoon, after some lapping, also cools rather well.

It seems as though Tator is more up to date than Blitz and I on his air coolers.









I read over the other posts and saw that you picked up some ceramique. That's not the pigeon poop I was referring to. Unless I am mistaken, Ceramique is ceramic based and it doesn't separate and crystallize uwhen subjected to really low temps.

The pigeon poop I was referring to is the cheapest stuff you can get. From what I understand it is based on an oil. It's seriously cheap, a tube should've cost you less than $5. I've found the thicker pastes like AS5, OCZ Freeze, ICD7 etc. don't fare as well as the cheapo pigeon poop when in between 2 lapped surfaces.


----------



## Blitz6804

Not to be snide, by why not just open a window? It was a beautiful day today, clocking in at an unseasonably warm 63Âº F in Amherst. My ambient temp today was 18.9Âº C instead of the usual 17.7Âº C. (That increased my idle temperature by 2Âº C just for the record; load temperature while doing two GPU [email protected] clients is unchanged.)


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Long story short: Air coolers cannot dissipate the heat transfer of a TEC well.

If you're going air cooling







Ranked in Performance)
Noctua D14
Cogage Arrow + Bracket
Thermalright VenomousX + Bracket
 Titan Fernir

Thanks Tator-Tot. Most of them do not say socket 939 though. I'm pretty sure I could make a different mounting bracket work with a little ingenuity. Someone here said, I think, that an AM2/AM3 bracket could be used with 939.

EDIT:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Well any of the coolers we listed should keep your CPU rather cool. The more expensive ones are better, but the Big Typhoon, after some lapping, also cools rather well.

It seems as though Tator is more up to date than Blitz and I on his air coolers.









I read over the other posts and saw that you picked up some ceramique. That's not the pigeon poop I was referring to. Unless I am mistaken, Ceramique is ceramic based and it doesn't separate and crystallize uwhen subjected to really low temps.

The pigeon poop I was referring to is the cheapest stuff you can get. From what I understand it is based on an oil. It's seriously cheap, a tube should've cost you less than $5. I've found the thicker pastes like AS5, OCZ Freeze, ICD7 etc. don't fare as well as the cheapo pigeon poop when in between 2 lapped surfaces.

I sent someone to the store and that's what they got. I called the store and told them I needed the cheapest stuff they had beforehand. I even said "RadioShack brand silicone based heatsink compound" and I figured I'd get the right stuff.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
Thanks Tator-Tot. Most of them do not say socket 939 though. I'm pretty sure I could make a different mounting bracket work with a little ingenuity. *Someone here said, I think, that an AM2/AM3 bracket could be used with 939*.

It depends how it attaches to the board. If it uses the stock retention bracket like the Xigmatek Dark Knight, then it's just a clip-on piece just like stock. However, if it uses the bolt through kit, it needs to be 939 specific as the 939 brackets only use 2 screws whereas AM2/AM3 use 4 screws to attach the bracket.

EDIT: As for your TIM dilemma, if you want it done right you gotta do it yourself.


----------



## Blitz6804

Those with the gusto to do it can sometimes modify their motherboard. Some late-life motherboards shared PCBs with AM2 boards, and as such, there are trace voids in the board where the AM2 mounting holes would be. While I am not advocating this, it could be possible to carefully drill out those voids such that you can mount an AM2 backplate. I have no idea if this is the case, maybe in electronics could affirm or deny?


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Those with the gusto to do it can sometimes modify their motherboard. Some late-life motherboards shared PCBs with AM2 boards, and as such, there are trace voids in the board where the AM2 mounting holes would be. While I am not advocating this, it could be possible to carefully drill out those voids such that you can mount an AM2 backplate. I have no idea if this is the case, maybe in electronics could affirm or deny?

I was thinking more along the lines of drilling and threading holes in the 939 retention bracket and then attaching another type to it. Or something. Not really interested in drilling the mobo.


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, the Titan Fernir appears to natively support 939. The Cogage Arrow and the Thermalright VenomousX (a redesign of the Thermalright Ultra-120 Extreme I mentioned earlier) both support 939 IF you buy the bracket Tator Tot linked. I used that exact same bracket when I mounted my Thermalright SI-128 on my 939 platform. Ironically, both are sitting in my kitchen drawer right now.


----------



## ny_driver

Looks like that swiftech is compatible after all. My bad. Maybe $200 isn't too much.









EDIT: it looks pretty awesome. I just looked through a review at club overclocker....I couldn't seem to paste a direct link to it, sorry.

EDIT: after reading more I have to go with the Extreme($229)edition. I'm going to make this cpu run cool.


----------



## Blitz6804

And it should easily handle any modern quad core for when you eventually make the jump to i5/i7 or x4. Hexa cores are also likely (i9 / x6) provided you did not want to cool an epic GPU. Some GPUs can actually be cooled by the Swiftech H20-220 in addition to the CPU.


----------



## ny_driver

I was just coming here to brag about how I put a decent band aid on my cooling issues and then I looked over at my idle temps and they are back up to 43c. I re-installed the Core Contact Freezer in a pull configuration and I strapped the Vantec Tornado to its back right down at the base. I fired it up and it had been idling at 28-31c for a couple hours, and now it's insanely high again. I can't wait to get the OCZ freeze and see if it's any better. I won't be able to afford the H20-220 for a few weeks at least. That will be fun to play with.


----------



## Blitz6804

The only thing I can think of... does your case get decent airflow? A way to test this is to run the case with the door off; if your temps go down, your case is not permitting enough air to get to the cooler.


----------



## ny_driver

Now it's back down to 34/30c. I have very good air flow. When I take the side cover off the temps stay the very close to the same, up ~1 degree if anything.
EDIT:Here is a screenshot of my system temps and information. It's running really well...I can't wait to cool it down a good chunk with the swiftech.

EDIT: had a nice couple hour run there, but we're back up in the 40's(44/45c)....lol
re-EDIT: I just checked the voltage and it has not changed.
re-re-EDIT: rebooted and back to low 30's(33/31c)


----------



## ny_driver

Wow, you know what I just discovered? That when I click on AMD Fusion to shut stuff down for racing, the idle temps jump up 10c and as soon as I shut it off it goes right back down to 30-32c.
I can't believe that this is what has been happening all along. Maybe though. I guess I sometimes don't turn off AMD Fusion when I am finished racing. I wonder what it is shutting off that is causing the idle temps to go up?







In any case the load temps are way too high.


----------



## Blitz6804

Open your task manager (ctrl + shft + esc) and check what your CPU usage is on the performance tab. Then run Fusion and check again. Screenshots of both would be helpful.


----------



## redhat_ownage

epic voltage = epic ram speed

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1072736

i was going for 1400 i settled for 1386


----------



## ny_driver

Here you go. I don't see any difference.


----------



## Blitz6804

Can we get one each of the Processes tab? I am starting to think when you enable Fusion, it is knocking out a bit of code responsible for recording temps. Does your load differ between the two? Does your FPS? Is there a diff if you run Fusion, and then boot Coretemp as compared to having Coretemp running first?


----------



## ny_driver

Load temps are higher also. I'm not even sure on the FPS. And it makes no difference what order I launch the programs. I tried with HW Monitor, too.


----------



## Blitz6804

I have a really silly question: for fun, what power setting is your computer in? The power options is located in your control panel.


----------



## ny_driver

this power scheme........is this what you mean?


----------



## Blitz6804

Try changing it to "Always On" for sake of fun. See what your idle does.


----------



## ny_driver

I changed it and still get the same results. 
As for the FPS, after 1 test run I got 3 FPS more with Fusion "ON"(avg.of 48 instead of 45)...I guess it's not very necessary. Still makes me wonder though. I'm going to buy a 4670 before I buy anything, probably, which should definitely improve my FPS, (EDIT:and that is what the whole mission is about anyways.) 
Some tracks are unplayable with stuff on high.


----------



## Blitz6804

My question is: while you have it set to "Always On," does your CPU temp stay at 41Âº C regardless of what the state of Fusion is?


----------



## ny_driver

No, it's set to always on right now and I can change the temps back and forth with Fusion.


----------



## Blitz6804

Have you tried booting CPU-Z and viewing what happens there when you change Fusion's state? I would open two instances, setting one to CPU, one to Memory.


----------



## ny_driver

Absolutely nothing happening there. EDIT: I looked in HWMonitor, too and no other temperatures change.


----------



## smartasien

Heres a shot of my Opteron 146 @3ghz 1.55v vcore









This was my baby








and my first attempt at water.

I'm surprised my memory used to run so fast too. I bought some cheap gigaram off some dude on the forums but i overvolted them too high and they never worked at 300 again








Cousin asked to borrow them and I think they plugged them into a DDR2 slot and destroyed them... angers me still never paid back or anything. but i guess family is family right
ended up running under 200 after that on some ocz sticks.


----------



## Blitz6804

My gosh, that is beautiful... 3.0 GHz with DDR-600...

Welcome to the club!


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
My gosh, that is beautiful... 3.0 GHz with DDR-600...

Welcome to the club!

Wow! I didn't realize how fast the ram was until you posted it!

Nice work







, and welcome







.

Blitz, nice user title







.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


My gosh, that is beautiful... 3.0 GHz with DDR-600...

Welcome to the club!


DDR600 with tight timings to boot!


----------



## theCanadian

Pioneer, have you always had that rig or is this a downgrade? From the description, it sounds to be a very ghetto rig.

Smoking board, IDE drive with click of death, onboard audio (







) cardboard box for a case, and a cracked monitor.

How the hell are you even running?!!!!11!!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


Pioneer, have you always had that rig or is this a downgrade? From the description, it sounds to be a very ghetto rig.

Smoking board, IDE drive with click of death, onboard audio (







) cardboard box for a case, and a cracked monitor.

How the hell are you even running?!!!!11!!


I've had this rig for coming up on ~5 years now. It HAD an Opteron and another 2GB of RAM, but I removed those since it started smoking on me. And the cardboard box is just because I prefer caseless. My LCD....it died (got dropped) on my last move







.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *smartasien*


Heres a shot of my Opteron 146 @3ghz 1.55v vcore









This was my baby







and my first attempt at water.

I'm surprised my memory used to run so fast too. I bought some cheap gigaram off some dude on the forums but i overvolted them too high and they never worked at 300 again








Cousin asked to borrow them and I think they plugged them into a DDR2 slot and destroyed them... angers me still never paid back or anything. but i guess family is family right
ended up running under 200 after that on some ocz sticks.


 Very nice OC









Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I've had this rig for coming up on ~5 years now. It HAD an Opteron and another 2GB of RAM, but I removed those since it started smoking on me. And the cardboard box is just because I prefer caseless. My LCD....it died (got dropped) on my last move







.


 Hey I've got a CFX3200DR if you don't mind the cold boot bug.


----------



## Kryton

Nice OC and RAM speed on that Venus core. I've been wanting to give one of those chips a try and can tell you the Venus core helps your RAM speed too. 
Great chips if you can find them.

I'm about to order a Callisto 555 BE as my next chip for the AM3. Hoping it will be unlockable but not expecting a miracle here. 
In other news, got the Sempy to go over 3.9GHz unlocked on air cooling (See pic) and I'm really happy with this chip now. If only these really were 939 chips like CPU-Z says and we could pop them in our boards.









I'm really tempted to get another one but getting the 555 BE instead while these are still available.


----------



## playah

The 555 BE's from MC have had a better unlocking success ratio than those from NE


----------



## Kryton

Could be as simple as Newegg had a so-so batch group shipped to them while MC (?) got a better batch group. 
Who knows but lately reviewers at the egg have been saying they unlocked it more than they did earlier.


----------



## playah

You can take your chances with NE, it looked like 50-50 to me, I've been following this since release and it looked like the ones from MC were 75-25 or better, personally I'd get one from MC, that's just me


----------



## Blitz6804

What is MC?


----------



## smartasien

microcenter which usually carry the cpmw's
newegg usually carry bpmw's


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


What is MC?


I was wondering about that too. 
Thanks smartasien for clearing that up. I'll visit their site and see what's up.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Nice OC and RAM speed on that Venus core. I've been wanting to give one of those chips a try and can tell you the Venus core helps your RAM speed too. 
Great chips if you can find them.

I'm about to order a Callisto 555 BE as my next chip for the AM3. Hoping it will be unlockable but not expecting a miracle here. 
In other news, got the Sempy to go over 3.9GHz unlocked on air cooling (See pic) and I'm really happy with this chip now. *If only these really were 939 chips like CPU-Z says and we could pop them in our boards.*









I'm really tempted to get another one but getting the 555 BE instead while these are still available.


 If that was the case I would've never upgraded from my 939. These new rigs aren't really noticeably faster than the 939 except for where the clock speed makes up for the bottleneck in games.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


What is MC?


MicroCenter.









When I went there, I had to hurry up and leave otherwise I was going to spend too much money.....


----------



## playah

Just tried the 550BE I got from NewEgg in 2 different unlocking mb's, no go

On a brighter note just got on that does unlock in the forums for the price of a new one

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
These new rigs aren't really noticeably faster than the 939 except for where the clock speed makes up for the bottleneck in games.

I agree the x2 3800 I had at 3ghz was a fast puppy


----------



## ny_driver

Well I'm off to Washington to hook up some phone lines. (mustmakemoney2upgrade939)


----------



## Blitz6804

State, or city? If the former, wave hi to Pioneerisloud for us.


----------



## nategr8ns

And say hi to my aunts (pronounced differently on east coast/west coast, so my cousins laugh at me when I pronounce it the easterner's way) and uncles.


----------



## Kryton

RMA submitted for my bad OCZ's 
Keeping my fingers crossed here.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
And say hi to my aunts (pronounced differently on east coast/west coast, so my cousins laugh at me when I pronounce it the easterner's way) and uncles.

That's all right I had some Ain't Yo Momma Syrup dis mornin LOL


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
That's all right I had some Ain't Yo Momma Syrup dis mornin LOL

Dat's ant yo mamma surup.


----------



## N2Gaming

Oh well considering how poor my spelling is I'm not surprised...


----------



## BlackOmega

Sorry for the OT guys but I gotta.

Got my i7 up and running with XP







Been messing around trying to figure out how to slipstream the RAID drivers on to the disk. After 3 attempts I'm hoping this one works, going to try installing later after I backup all the stuff I wanna keep off of my AMD.

But man I'm really starting to like this thing it is SOOOOO freakin quiet in comparison to my AM3 rig it's unreal. I know it's just the 4870's making all that noise but it definitely is a refreshing change of pace.

I also ran 3dm06 last night just for kicks and giggles. Scored almost 16k (with my GSOs) @ 2853MHz.....I still don't know why this thing keeps underclocking itself. I have speedstep disabled. I'm such a newb with these intels.


----------



## Blitz6804

Disable C1E as well.

EDIT: {Also, what temperature is it when you run the test? Why do you say it is underclocking @ 2853; I thought you have an i7 920?}


----------



## BlackOmega

Lol quite honestly I have no idea what the temp was. Don't have anything monitoring it at the moment.

But here's how it got to 2853. Whenever I'd check the CPU speed it was slightly over 2200. So I check in the BIOS and the settings were like CPU multi 17x and the base clock (ref clk) was @ 133. So I raised the multiplier to 20x which gave me 2.66. So then I ran 3dm06. On the results page it said that I was @ 2853.









Thanks for the C1E suggestion. Looks like I've got a lot of reading ahead of me. But even at this low speed, this thing is fast!


----------



## Blitz6804

Stock is 133x20. It will automatically thermal throttle down to 12x if you start getting too hot. (Thermal max is 100Âº C.) When you have it set to 2.66 GHz, and it is reading 2.85 GHz, that is "turbo" at work, but this can be disabled if you want. Provided that your processor will draw less than 130 W, it will automatically increase its multiplier by a step. Thus, if you are running a really heavy unithreaded application, it could clock up to 2793 MHz. Apparently, your board was giving it a 136 base clock.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Stock is 133x20. It will automatically thermal throttle down to 12x if you start getting too hot. (Thermal max is 100Âº C.) When you have it set to 2.66 GHz, and it is reading 2.85 GHz, that is "turbo" at work, but this can be disabled if you want. Provided that your processor will draw less than 130 W, it will automatically increase its multiplier by a step. Thus, if you are running a really heavy unithreaded application, it could clock up to 2793 MHz. Apparently, your board was giving it a 136 base clock.


 Well I just re-ran 3dm06 and now it's slightly overclocking to 2762. I wonder why it's not consistent.









I downloaded realtemp and according to it the highest any of the cores went was 60C, so I supposedly have another 40C to go before it should throttle. Not bad for the stock heatsink.


----------



## Blitz6804

If it is anything like my Core 2 Duo, it will actually start to throttle BEFORE it gets anywhere near the thermal spec. My Core 2 Duo starts to throttle at 85Âº C. (Also specced for 100Âº C.) Something I noticed with Intel boards is the FSB (or BCLK in your case) seems to be less stable than the HTT in an AMD rig. My Intel experience is limited however. As to the difference in clocks: 3DMark06 runs the bench right when you start the program. Depending what you were doing before you opened it could have determined the power state of the processor. As I said, assuming it holds a perfect 133 MHz BCLK, you would anticipate 2793 MHz.


----------



## BlackOmega

That's interesting that it doesn't hold the bclk very stable.







And it hasn't even gone above 60C so I doubt it's throttling. I did add more updates and the .net framework wonder if that decreases performance.


----------



## Blitz6804

Have you tried leaving CPU-Z open for a while and just watching what it does as you dink around? My Core2Duo (granted, its a laptop chip) has its FSB flutter around 2-3 MHz in either direction.


----------



## BlackOmega

I have a little bit but it doesn't seem to change much during normal day to day tasks but during most games and whatnot it goes fullscreen so I can't monitor it. I'll give prime95 a go and see what happens.
It seems now that the base clk isn't really fluctuating much but the voltage keeps jumping around +/-0.012v.


----------



## Blitz6804

Have you disabled turbo to see if it holds steady at 2.66?


----------



## BlackOmega

Nope not yet, I wanted to see how it would behave while under load.

So I just ran p95 for a few minutes and it seems to not make a difference. The CPU frequency didn't change 1 bit while under load.

I wonder if it had to do with what kind of application you run.


----------



## NZi

Whoop whoop will be joing this in a few days, just got a FX-55 along with a A8N32-SLI Deluxe







. Never had 939, only 754 then to AM2+


----------



## Blitz6804

Cool NZi. I dare say, it will be a good touch faster than gOLDen.

BlackOmega: Try it under light loads. For example, run Orthos, which will only stress two threads, not all eight. It can only increase the multiplier provided it will stay within the 130 W envelope. If you are running prime across all eight threads, I am sure it will exceed that. The theory is, when you are running a program that can only use one core (Counterstrike: Source for example) it gives you a slightly faster processor.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NZi*


Whoop whoop will be joing this in a few days, just got a FX-55 along with a A8N32-SLI Deluxe







. Never had 939, only 754 then to AM2+


 Welcome! Just post up a CPUz validation when you get er all put together.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


BlackOmega: Try it under light loads. For example, run Orthos, which will only stress two threads, not all eight. It can only increase the multiplier provided it will stay within the 130 W envelope. If you are running prime across all eight threads, I am sure it will exceed that. The theory is, when you are running a program that can only use one core (Counterstrike: Source for example) it gives you a slightly faster processor.


 Finally got it figured out. It was some windows update for Active X killbits that did it. Now it reports consistently across all programs from Everest to CPUz to 3Dm06.

After you suggested it yesterday I went through and checked everything that could OC it and everything was disabled. Sppedstep, CxE, and virtualization.

While it is staying consistent it's still slightly underclocked however @ 2653.

At any rate, Here's the validation for it. Haven't done anything except adjust the RAM frequency, haven't even messed with the timings, that's why they're at the wonderful 9-9-9-25 timings.


----------



## Blitz6804

That might be an EVGA thing. My dad's EVGA runs his E6850 at 2988 MHz if I remember right.

I wonder what specifically that update is designed to do. Intentionally mess with the CPU multiplier? Did you disable Turbo too, or you left that alone?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


That might be an EVGA thing. My dad's EVGA runs his E6850 at 2988 MHz if I remember right.

I wonder what specifically that update is designed to do. Intentionally mess with the CPU multiplier? Did you disable Turbo too, or you left that alone?


 Yeah the bclk is actually 132.75 which is why I'm getting that weird CPU frequency.

I too wonder what it does really. But before it, it would report strangely in 3dm06, so I'm assuming that it has to do with graphically intense applications. Because it would report correctly when using prime and whatnot.

As far as BIOS settings are concerned, Speedstep, Turbo, and virtualisation were all disabled from the factory. I didn't mess with too much in the BIOS as I still need to learn exactly what each thing does. But once I do, I'm gonna try for 4.0, I hear that I should be able to do this rather easily. I'm curious to see how it'll perform with the GSO's.







You think it'll be able to break 20k?


----------



## Blitz6804

Absolutely. I do not even think you need to get to 4.0, my guess is that 3.5 (175 BCLK) should be more than sufficient. At 3.5, my CPU gets about 5000 marks, and at 3.65 about 5100 marks. What was your CPU-only score when it got 16k overall?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Absolutely. I do not even think you need to get to 4.0, my guess is that 3.5 (175 BCLK) should be more than sufficient. At 3.5, my CPU gets about 5000 marks, and at 3.65 about 5100 marks. What was your CPU-only score when it got 16k overall?


It was 5133. Here's screen shot.









I knew these GSO's had more in them that I couldn't tap in to.









My AM3 rig with both 4870's @ 2.8 scores roughly the same. But I'm expecting much higher framerates in most games since I _shouldn't_ be CPU bound anymore.

I've been thinking that I should test out all the different GPU configurations that I have with i7 and see how it does. The GPUs' I'd use would be as follows:
2 x Evga 6800 vanilla
2 x Asus 9600 GSO 96 SP 384MB GDDR3
2 x Evga 9600 GSO 96 SP 768MB GDDR3
and finally my 4870's. 
Too bad it doesn't have an AGP slot then I could test a BFG 6200 OC 512 MB and a Geforce 3.


----------



## Blitz6804

I would be interested to see those tests. (Though, perhaps maybe we should be moving this into a separate topic at this point.) You have to keep in mind that 3DMark of any flavor is extremely Intel biased, and quite nVidia biased. I am willing to bet that your AM3 rig with the HD 4870s at 2.8 GHz will out perform the i7 with the 9600 GSOs in any game but Crysis despite it scoring about the same in 3DMark06.


----------



## Tator Tot

*@Blitz & Black Omega*

FYI Guys, Vantage is a terrible test to use (well any 3D Mark test is bad from a Gaming Judgement) just because it's got a Heavy Intel/nVidia BIAS because of the GPU Engine used, and the fact that the CPU section was compiled with an Intel Compiler.


----------



## Blitz6804

As I had said in the post just prior Tator Tot... I only use it to compare my own rig to my own rig. That is, if I increase clocks, what happens to my score. Any other usage is worthless.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


As I had said in the post just prior Tator Tot... I only use it to compare my own rig to my own rig. That is, if I increase clocks, what happens to my score. Any other usage is worthless.


You can usually use it to compare AMD/ATi vs AMD/ATi. As you'll see the same scores with the same settings on most hardware.


----------



## Blitz6804

Perhaps that is true, but I did not think it was very helpful. 3DMark06 is terribly scaled; Vantage is a bit better, but not by much. That is, a pair of overclocked HD 3850s got the same score as a reference clocked HD 4870x2. I can assure you, the HD 4870x2 dominated in games, getting two-to-three times the FPS depending on the game.


----------



## Fusion Racing

Put my Tuniq back on my 3200+ in my DFI:

2.9Ghz 3200+ Venice

Ram is really slow at the moment, will try 3.0Ghz validation - if that doesn't work I'll work on 2.9Ghz 24/7 with correct RAM speeds.


----------



## Blitz6804

Hey BlackOmega, have you tried softmodding your 9600 GSOs into 8800 GTSes? I hear that it can be done with a simple BIOS flash, but with the caveat that it might only work on Galaxy 9600 GSO OC editions.

Welcome aboard Fusion Racing!


----------



## Fusion Racing

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Welcome aboard Fusion Racing!


Already a member with the overclock below









http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=285728

Didn't mention it in the previous post as it was about as stable as an upside down pyramid - was posting at 2.9Ghz too


----------



## Blitz6804

*Nibbles foot.* I completely forgot that. Considering I put together the offsite roster... yeah... facepalms are in order.


----------



## Fusion Racing

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
*Nibbles foot.* I completely forgot that. Considering I put together the offsite roster... yeah... facepalms are in order.

Heh, no worries - we do have a lot of members.

Anyone know the safe max voltage for a Venice chip - been to 1.7 already trying to get 3.0Ghz, but it just crashed while loading windows.

Edit: 2.9Ghz with a good ram speed

Edit 2: Faster still: Clicky

Edit 3: Tried 3.0Ghz, aswell as 2.95Ghz and its a no go







- really wanted that 50% overclock.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Hey BlackOmega, have you tried softmodding your 9600 GSOs into 8800 GTSes? I hear that it can be done with a simple BIOS flash, but with the caveat that it might only work on Galaxy 9600 GSO OC editions.


 I've always been a little leery of changing a BIOS on a GPU to one not intended for the card. But with Evga's precision, there's no need for it as I can make it so it applies my overclock upon startup. 
Aside from that, these cards overclock very well. Well beyond GTS levels, provided I can keep them cool enough.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fusion Racing*


Heh, no worries - we do have a lot of members.

Anyone know the safe max voltage for a Venice chip - been to 1.7 already trying to get 3.0Ghz, but it just crashed while loading windows.

Edit: 2.9Ghz with a good ram speed

Edit 2: Faster still: Clicky

Edit 3: Tried 3.0Ghz, aswell as 2.95Ghz and its a no go







- really wanted that 50% overclock.


 Welcome Fusion.

Regarding your voltage question and a Venice core. I've pumped 1.88v in to a 3500+ successfully. Granted the 3500+ is delidded, even then it still idled @ 50C. I tried 1.92v, which POSTed but crashed when loading windows.

As for your overclocks, your RAM is overclocked pretty high (DDR527), and from my experience, RAM can definitely limit your overall OC. 
I'd say try dropping your RAM down to DDR400 (or lower) and see if you can get a higher CPU overclock.

Good Luck


----------



## Fusion Racing

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Welcome Fusion.

Regarding your voltage question and a Venice core. I've pumped 1.88v in to a 3500+ successfully. Granted the 3500+ is delidded, even then it still idled @ 50C. I tried 1.92v, which POSTed but crashed when loading windows.

As for your overclocks, your RAM is overclocked pretty high (DDR527), and from my experience, RAM can definitely limit your overall OC.
I'd say try dropping your RAM down to DDR400 (or lower) and see if you can get a higher CPU overclock.

Good Luck









I was running the ram ~DDR 360 to make sure that wouldn't affect anything at all, its rated at DDR500 so it should be fine. Might have another go tomorrow then if I can pump the volts up higher, even if I can only get a CPUZ validation at 3Ghz I'd be happy. Feels great to be overclocking on the Ultra D again, whatever you throw at it it'll still restart and post.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Fusion Racing* 
I was running the ram ~DDR 360 to make sure that wouldn't affect anything at all, its rated at DDR500 so it should be fine. Might have another go tomorrow then if I can pump the volts up higher, even if I can only get a CPUZ validation at 3Ghz I'd be happy. Feels great to be overclocking on the Ultra D again, whatever you throw at it it'll still restart and post.

I can vouch for the Ultra-D's (I have 2 of them), they're awesome boards. Rock solid stable too. It was actually a pleasure overclocking on those compared to my Asus A8N32 SLI deluxe. Asus tried hard with that board but the voltage regulation was sub par. Wen to the Ultra-D and all my overclocking woes went away.









As for hitting 3.0, well I suppose you can always try pumping 1.725-1.75v in it, and it should still be good provided you can keep temps under control.

Now maybe you can help me with my issue. On my sig rig, I'm trying out Win7 ult 64 bit. And I installed a DX9 game, when I try to run it it says that the dx9 dll is missing and I shold try reinstalling the game. Any ideas?


----------



## Fusion Racing

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I can vouch for the Ultra-D's (I have 2 of them), they're awesome boards. Rock solid stable too. It was actually a pleasure overclocking on those compared to my Asus A8N32 SLI deluxe. Asus tried hard with that board but the voltage regulation was sub par. Wen to the Ultra-D and all my overclocking woes went away.









As for hitting 3.0, well I suppose you can always try pumping 1.725-1.75v in it, and it should still be good provided you can keep temps under control.

Now maybe you can help me with my issue. On my sig rig, I'm trying out Win7 ult 64 bit. And I installed a DX9 game, when I try to run it it says that the dx9 dll is missing and I shold try reinstalling the game. Any ideas?

Temps should be fine, loading at 45 @ 2.75Ghz on 1.55, managed to run Super PI @ 2.9Ghz on 1.65 and that didn't go above 50.

Download this and report back - updating directx with that should install anything missing.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Now maybe you can help me with my issue. On my sig rig, I'm trying out Win7 ult 64 bit. And I installed a DX9 game, when I try to run it it says that the dx9 dll is missing and I shold try reinstalling the game. Any ideas?

I'm wondering if you can reinstall that game w/out any problems. I'm not sure if this will help any but I'm not able to play Call of Juarez Bound by Blood in Win 7 but the game works perfectly in Win XP Pro x64. It's just one of those things.









Speaking of games, Hows your system playing GRID?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Fusion Racing* 
Temps should be fine, loading at 45 @ 2.75Ghz on 1.55, managed to run Super PI @ 2.9Ghz on 1.65 and that didn't go above 50.

Download this and report back - updating directx with that should install anything missing.

Awesome that worked. Thank you.









Weird that it didn't come already as a part of it.









As for your 3200, I'd say pump some more voltage in to that bad boy, and you should be able to hit that magic 3.0.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I'm wondering if you can reinstall that game w/out any problems. I'm not sure if this will help any but I'm not able to play Call of Juarez Bound by Blood in Win 7 but the game works perfectly in Win XP Pro x64. It's just one of those things.









Speaking of games, Hows your system playing GRID?

As a matter of fact quite nicely. I just tested it (didn't notice SLI was disabled), with everything on high and 4xAA was averaging ~45FPS @ 1680x1050 16:10. I'm sure with both it will probably close to double. I'll have to disable vsync though. For some reason these ported games really like to tear up pretty bad without it.









And that's quite odd that you can't play Call of Juarez, did you try installing that source SDK thing and seeing if that helps anything?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


that's quite odd that you can't play Call of Juarez, did you try installing that source SDK thing and seeing if that helps anything?


Hmm source SDK ??? This is the first I have heard of source SDK... I figured it was a common problem to not be able to run Call of Juarez Bound in Blood in Win 7. I noticed under one of the video lists IIRC it was under Nvidia's control panel and it said that Call of Juarez Bound in Blood is not recommended in Win 7 as seen in the image of my Nvidia Control Panel below but maybe I can try this SDK thing you mention.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hmm source SDK ??? This is the first I have heard of source SDK... I figured it was a common problem to not be able to run Call of Juarez Bound in Blood in Win 7. I noticed under one of the video lists IIRC it was under Nvidia's control panel and it said that Call of Juarez Bound in Blood is not recommended in Win 7 as seen in the image of my Nvidia Control Panel below but maybe I can try this SDK thing you mention.



















 Go to microshafts website and look for the Source SDK for developers I think. I got an x86 version of it a while back when I was having some issue with dll's. I installed it and didn't have any issues since.

Also, I was just looking at your screen shot and it says that call of Juarez isn't compatible with "Stereoscopic 3D", I don't that it means that you can't play it at all, just not on 3 monitors.


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks for clearing that up for me. IDK what I was thinking w/the stereoscopic 3D thing but I was under the impression it was telling me not to try to run the game in Win 7 LOL


----------



## Animal Mother

Im proud to say i bought a launch Athlon dual core 3800+ a few years back, and man i thought it was the best damn thing i ever bought.

Im also proud to say my girlfriend is running a 4400+, it has also been around for a few or more years and still runs great.


----------



## Menace

So I thought I'd give the club a little bit of an update on my socket 939 cpu. It is an athlon 3800x2 running at 2.5Ghz (http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=878041). A while back I tried to reach 2.6Ghz with the chip but I couldn't hit the mark. I changed the HT link from 4 to 3, cpu multiplier to 9, as well as downclocked the ram to 333mhz. However, I couldn't get the chip past 2.56Ghz (HT at 4, multi at 10, ram at 390mhz with 1.39 voltage). I'm not sure if its the motherboard (ECS KN1 Lite) holding the cpu back or the fact that I'm using all 4 dimms (4x512mb).

However, with that said I have retired the 3800x2 from further overclocking as I have given my 939 build to my parents. I downclocked it to 2.4Ghz witch stock voltage (1.34 if I recall correctly) and it is working fine. That 939 build served me well, let me play all my source games just dandy.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Please welcome our newest member, Th0m0_202!

Welcome to our little family!


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Aside from that, these cards overclock very well. Well beyond GTS levels, provided I can keep them cool enough.


Sure, but... 8800 GTS have 128 pipelines, the 9600 GSO has 96. Some have reported successfully unlocking the disabled pipes. This was not possible with the 8800 GS because they were laser disabled, whereas in the 9600 GSO they are BIOS disabled.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I'm not sure if this will help any but I'm not able to play Call of Juarez Bound by Blood in Win 7 but the game works perfectly in Win XP Pro x64. It's just one of those things.


Have you tried compatibility mode? Most of the time, if I get a game that will not run, this will fix:

Right-click shortcut
Hit properties
Hit change settings for all users
Check run this program in compatibility mode for Windows XP Service Pack 3
Check disable visual themes
Check disable desktop composition
Hit OK until all windows are gone

Note, your alt-tab will likely stop functioning. If that does not work, uninstall the program, reinstall the program, this time doing the above steps to the installer program. (Usually setup.exe.) The only programs I have not been able to get running via the above method are 16-bit, but no surprise there.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Animal Mother*


Im proud to say i bought a launch Athlon dual core 3800+ a few years back, and man i thought it was the best damn thing i ever bought.

Im also proud to say my girlfriend is running a 4400+, it has also been around for a few or more years and still runs great.


 Good to hear that.







Post up a link to a CPUz validation and we'll add you to the roster.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Menace*


So I thought I'd give the club a little bit of an update on my socket 939 cpu. It is an athlon 3800x2 running at 2.5Ghz (http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=878041). A while back I tried to reach 2.6Ghz with the chip but I couldn't hit the mark. I changed the HT link from 4 to 3, cpu multiplier to 9, as well as downclocked the ram to 333mhz. However, I couldn't get the chip past 2.56Ghz (HT at 4, multi at 10, ram at 390mhz with 1.39 voltage). I'm not sure if its the motherboard (ECS KN1 Lite) holding the cpu back or the fact that I'm using all 4 dimms (4x512mb).

However, with that said I have retired the 3800x2 from further overclocking as I have given my 939 build to my parents. I downclocked it to 2.4Ghz witch stock voltage (1.34 if I recall correctly) and it is working fine. That 939 build served me well, let me play all my source games just dandy.










 I've heard that the ECS boards weren't the greatest overclockers, but not horrible either. It's not a bad overclock on your 3800x2, but being a Toledo, I think you should be able to get more out of her. Perhaps the board was holding you back after all.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Sure, but... 8800 GTS have 128 pipelines, the 9600 GSO has 96. Some have reported successfully unlocking the disabled pipes. This was not possible with the 8800 GS because they were laser disabled, whereas in the 9600 GSO they are BIOS disabled.


 Really? I didn't know that, thanks for that tid bit of info.









But then the question needs to be asked: if I do flash to the GTS BIOS and the pipelines are in fact unusable, would that bork the card?

Then, hypothetically speaking, if the card does get borked from the flash, is there any way to flash it back to the GSO BIOS?


----------



## Blitz6804

That is of course the issue. From what I have found in a precursory search, only the Galaxy 9600 GSO overclock can do it. Most people cite that it is because it has a dual BIOS, so in the case of a failure, you are not borked. Many others cite that it has eight RAM chips of the 8800 GTS instead of the six RAM chips of the 9600 GSO. I did not really look that much into it however.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


That is of course the issue. From what I have found in a precursory search, only the Galaxy 9600 GSO overclock can do it. Most people cite that it is because it has a dual BIOS, so in the case of a failure, you are not borked. Many others cite that it has eight RAM chips of the 8800 GTS instead of the six RAM chips of the 9600 GSO. I did not really look that much into it however.


 Well, I was thinking along the lines of, if the card is borked can you use another card to boot into the system, and then revert the borked card to the original BIOS?

I'll have to pull the heatsink off of the memory and check how many RAM chips are on there. I wonder if that would be any indication of if a card can run the GTS BIOS.

PS: I think I have to re-apply the thermal tape on the RAM anyway. It looks like they've started to separate and release an oil/grease. I doubt it's the RAM itself as the cards run really cool and I get no errors.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *playah*


Just tried the 550BE I got from NewEgg in 2 different unlocking mb's, no go

On a brighter note just got on that does unlock in the forums for the price of a new one

I agree the x2 3800 I had at 3ghz was a fast puppy


Got my 555BE in today from the egg and yes, it unlocked!








Guess I'm lucky since it's a CACAC 1004 BPMW chip but it does unlock all four cores and boots fine. 
I'll get around to really testing it later.


----------



## godofdeath

how do you lap amd, im afraid of bending the pins more than they are


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


how do you lap amd, im afraid of bending the pins more than they are


 Qute easily actually. Just take the foam that the CPU came with, put it on the pins as you lap. Or simply hold the CPU by the edges.

Remember to rotate it every 15-20 strokes.


----------



## redhat_ownage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Got my 555BE in today from the egg and yes, it unlocked!








Guess I'm lucky since it's a CACAC 1004 BPMW chip but it does unlock all four cores and boots fine. 
I'll get around to really testing it later.


lucky man mines a failure


----------



## N2Gaming

Hi all, I have a PM from Hueristic, I got it a few days ago. Sorry for relaying his msg so late. He wants to let everyone know he's still alive and will re-join our group discussions when his situation permits it.


----------



## StormX2

Oh what happend to heuristic?

-

Im thinking of Selling my 939 parts, the poor guy just sits there unused =(


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *StormX2*


Oh what happend to heuristic?

-

Im thinking of Selling my 939 parts, the poor guy just sits there unused =(


It's a long story and I think I should save it for him to tell as it is his story and I don't know how much info he would like to share over the interwebz. However I can tell you he does not have internet access atm.


----------



## Blitz6804

So ny_driver, hows the OCZ Freeze Extreme?


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
So ny_driver, hows the OCZ Freeze Extreme?

Well, to tell the truth I can't really tell for 2 reasons.
The first being that shortly after first applying the OCZ my chip decided to idle up in the 40's and it has been stuck there since(42/46c right now with 22c ambient







). I didn't think it was just the AMDFusion that was making my chip do that.
And secondly, my CCF is lapped unevenly. Ever since I lapped just the two inside heatpipes the outside two now make excellent contact, but the inside two are no longer making as good of contact with the cpu.

I was thinking about trying the Opteron cooler again with the OCZ, just to see how the OCZ works, but it was a very long week in Washington, DC.

EDIT: I think I may try to improve on the lap job either tonight or tomorrow.
EDIT: I lapped it down better,(edit:and miraculously the temps went back down to 33/30)but even with the OCZ it gets too hot, although a little better. I'm going to get the H2O-220 after I get some paychecks rolling in.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Hi all, I have a PM from Hueristic, I got it a few days ago. Sorry for relaying his msg so late. He wants to let everyone know he's still alive and will re-join our group discussions when his situation permits it.

Good to hear that he's alive and kicking.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
Well, to tell the truth I can't really tell for 2 reasons.
The first being that shortly after first applying the OCZ my chip decided to idle up in the 40's and it has been stuck there since(42/46c right now with 22c ambient







). I didn't think it was just the AMDFusion that was making my chip do that.
And secondly, my CCF is lapped unevenly. Ever since I lapped just the two inside heatpipes the outside two now make excellent contact, but the inside two are no longer making as good of contact with the cpu.

I was thinking about trying the Opteron cooler again with the OCZ, just to see how the OCZ works, but it was a very long week in Washington, DC.

EDIT: I think I may try to improve on the lap job either tonight or tomorrow.
EDIT: I lapped it down better,(edit:and miraculously the temps went back down to 33/30)but even with the OCZ it gets too hot, although a little better. I'm going to get the H2O-220 after I get some paychecks rolling in.

What kind of load temps are you seeing now?


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
What kind of load temps are you seeing now?

I was seeing 65-68 before shutting it down.....and now that I re-lapped and re-applied the OCZ, and let it sit overnight I only saw 63 max through 1 run of s&m. [EDIT:Idle temps are back up to 40/42 today though.] Running @ 2.8GHz 234x12 w/1.435v.
EDIT: I have a feeling the cooler is shot regardless of how flat it is, that I have lapped it too much and made the pipes too thin. I guess I won't get another one like that.


----------



## NZi

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1091938


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *NZi* 








http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1091938









so are you going to overclock it or what?









and welcome to the club NZi


----------



## ny_driver

I just managed to swing a CCBBE Opty 180 for $125 shipped, and it comes on a Tyan Tomcat K8E s2865 motherboard so now I have a pci-e option. I couldn't pass that deal up, it might be the golden cpu I've been looking for.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
I was seeing 65-68 before shutting it down.....and now that I re-lapped and re-applied the OCZ, and let it sit overnight I only saw 63 max through 1 run of s&m. [EDIT:Idle temps are back up to 40/42 today though.] Running @ 2.8GHz 234x12 w/1.435v.
EDIT: I have a feeling the cooler is shot regardless of how flat it is, that I have lapped it too much and made the pipes too thin. I guess I won't get another one like that.

Yeah, I've heard that's it's usually a bad idea to lap heat pipe direct touch coolers. I was going to lap my Xiggy Dark Knight, then I read about it and decided it just wasn't worth the risk.
Even with a rough of a finish as it has, it still cools rather well.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *NZi* 








http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1091938









Holy smokes why is your voltage so high?









Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
I just managed to swing a CCBBE Opty 180 for $125 shipped, and it comes on a Tyan Tomcat K8E s2865 motherboard so now I have a pci-e option. I couldn't pass that deal up, it might be the golden cpu I've been looking for.









That is a smokin deal. And now with PCIe you'll be able to get a super duper badass GPU.










I've been doing some thinking about the 180 and keep getting the impression that lapping might have harmed it some how. I've been thinking that lapping my 720 also somehow might have damaged it, because every so often I get a crazy temp spike (213C). I wasn't able to run OCCT because of this. It would detect it and immediately shut down.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
That is a smokin deal. And now with PCIe you'll be able to get a super duper badass GPU.









I wonder how well I can overclock on that server motherboard? And which smokin' badass GPU should I get?









EDIT: I just skimmed 1 review and it said all they could get was a 223 FSB out of it.....lol....I guess I won't be buying any video cards for this thing.


----------



## Blitz6804

Because it is a CG Clawhammer; stock voltage is 1.500 V.

What GPU you get could depend VERY GREATLY on what monitor(s) you need to push when gaming. What resolution is(/are) your monitors?


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Because it is a CG Clawhammer; stock voltage is 1.500 V.

What GPU you get could depend VERY GREATLY on what monitor(s) you need to push when gaming. What resolution is(/are) your monitors?

I don't know...I'm going to buy a new monitor pretty soon. I'm not getting a pci-e card anyways...that board is not for overclocking. I'm still getting the HD4670.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
I wonder how well I can overclock on that server motherboard? And which smokin' badass GPU should I get?









Here's a review of the Tyan Tomkat

As for a GPU,







well it depends, do you have a preference between ATi or Nvidia?

If no preference a 5850 or a 5870 would be your best bet.
Although they're kind of pricey. But a 4890 would also be a very good choice. Only down side is the lack of DX11 support.

Or if you can find like an Nvidia GTX 275, 285 or 295 for a relatively good price snatch one of those up. But definitely no more than $200.

EDIT:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
I
EDIT: I just skimmed 1 review and it said all they could get was a 223 FSB out of it.....lol....I guess I won't be buying any video cards for this thing.

That doesn't mean anything; just because one person couldn't get it to OC very well. Not to mention the steppings that you're going to run play a huge role in that too. It's using the NF4 chipset so I'd imagine if you hook up a clean power source to it it shouldn't do too badly.
This other review said it had a very overclocker friendly BIOS.


----------



## Blitz6804

In terms of graphics cards, the "sweet spot" of price and performance as far as I am concerned is the HD 5770. If you do not mind the bezels, you can even use wrap-around gaming. Unless I am mistaken, the HD 5770 is about the same as an HD 4870 in terms of power.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


In terms of graphics cards, the "sweet spot" of price and performance as far as I am concerned is the HD 5770. If you do not mind the bezels, you can even use wrap-around gaming. Unless I am mistaken, the HD 5770 is about the same as an HD 4870 in terms of power.


 It is, but the 4890 even without DX11, out performs it by a good amount and overclocks very well too. And it's quite a bit cheaper. And considering he's running XP, DX11 is useless.


----------



## Blitz6804

Very true; my theory was that the HD 5770 supports a multi-monitor configuration better. The real question is what is that new monitor ny_driver said he got... hm...


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Here's a review of the Tyan Tomkat

As for a GPU,







well it depends, do you have a preference between ATi or Nvidia?

If no preference a 5850 or a 5870 would be your best bet.
Although they're kind of pricey. But a 4890 would also be a very good choice. Only down side is the lack of DX11 support.

Or if you can find like an Nvidia GTX 275, 285 or 295 for a relatively good price snatch one of those up. But definitely no more than $200.

EDIT:

That doesn't mean anything; just because one person couldn't get it to OC very well. Not to mention the steppings that you're going to run play a huge role in that too. It's using the BF4 chipset so i'd imagine if you hook up a clean power source to it it shouldn't do too badly. 
This other review said it had a very overclocker friendly BIOS.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


In terms of graphics cards, the "sweet spot" of price and performance as far as I am concerned is the HD 5770. If you do not mind the bezels, you can even use wrap-around gaming. Unless I am mistaken, the HD 5770 is about the same as an HD 4870 in terms of power.


It does look like a decent board if you read the right review. Thanks for the video card suggestions. Geez now I am torn. I think I'll stick with the original plan first and get my 4670 for this board and a new cooler.

EDIT: I'm probably going to get something like this.... http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16824236049


----------



## Blitz6804

If you want to go 1080p, it is my opinion that an HD 4670 is a bad idea. I run a 1080p now; I needed at least an HD 4870x2 to push decent pixels through it. (Or an HD 5850.) I know from a friend that an HD 4850 with a 3.0 GHz K8 will usually pull in around 50 FPS average; the 4670 will pull in MUCH less. The HD 4670 was recommended when you were running your Dell m991 @ 1024x768.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


If you want to go 1080p, it is my opinion that an HD 4670 is a bad idea. I run a 1080p now; I needed at least an HD 4870x2 to push decent pixels through it. (Or an HD 5850.) I know from a friend that an HD 4850 with a 3.0 GHz K8 will usually pull in around 50 FPS average; the 4670 will pull in MUCH less. The HD 4670 was recommended when you were running your Dell m991 @ 1024x768.


Now I'm running it at 1600x1200 and I get at least 40FPS with my x1950pro and a K8 @ 2.8GHz. I think this card is starting to flake out a little and needs replacing in any case. Hence the 4670. I'm not abandoning my AGP rig yet.

Were you saying the monitor may not work right with too little of a video card though?


----------



## Blitz6804

For a monitor operating at 1080p, you want as much power as you can push. It is about 8% more pixels than your current display. Worse case, if you need to increase your FPS, just decrease to 1600x900 or 720p.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
Now I'm running it at 1600x1200 and I get at least 40FPS with my x1950pro and a K8 @ 2.8GHz. I think this card is starting to flake out a little and needs replacing in any case. Hence the 4670. I'm not abandoning my AGP rig yet.


I'm with Blitz on this one, I too think getting the AGP card is a bad idea. It just doesn't have the power to run a large resolution monitor well.

Even at 1680x1050 on mine, to max everything _and_ get good framerates, I need to use 2 4870's.

While these GSO's that I'm messing around with now aren't bad, but in DX10 they get slaughtered.

Assassins Creed @ 1680x1050, all maxed, 2xAA in some spots I get as low as 20FPS, although that could be because Win7 doesn't seem to run it right. It's like it's in windowed mode when it shouldn't be and the desktop + the game make it run poorly. I'm really starting not to like Win 7. None of my games want to work right.


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, that is the caveat. If you want to keep your monitor, the HD 4670 AGP is a fine card. Understand you likely will get better framerate closer to the "optimal" resolution of 1024x768. (Dell's website says it is 1600x1200 max; 1024x768 optimal.) If you want to go 1080p, definitely consider going PCIe at that point for gaming; for an HTPC (read: no gaming) the HD 4670 should run 1080p fine. For gaming, you will likely need to knock it down 1600x900 or 1280x720 to get great frame rates and highest quality.


----------



## Tator Tot

In the case of his current monitor, 1024x768 = 85hz, 1280x1024 = 75hz, 1600x1200 = 60hz

All of that really depends on the lighting of your room as far as what will be an eyestrain or not.

But like they all said, look at an HD5770 or higher.

HD4890, HD5830 would be the min I would go.


----------



## Blitz6804

What helps leaps and bounds: BACKLIGHTING!

I just recently purchased lights to put behind my monitor and it makes a MASSIVE difference regards eye strain. You can also have the brightness of the monitor lower and have more vivid colors.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


In the case of his current monitor, 1024x768 = 85hz, 1280x1024 = 75hz, 1600x1200 = 60hz

All of that really depends on the lighting of your room as far as what will be an eyestrain or not.

But like they all said, look at an HD5770 or higher.

HD4890, HD5830 would be the min I would go.


 does that mean I should set my games to 1024 x 768 x 85hz? Right now I have GTR2 set to 1600 x 1200 x 70hz, and my desktop is at 1152 x 864.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


What helps leaps and bounds: BACKLIGHTING!

I just recently purchased lights to put behind my monitor and it makes a MASSIVE difference regards eye strain. You can also have the brightness of the monitor lower and have more vivid colors.


I always have lights on behind my monitor, well on the other side of the room but just the same.


----------



## Blitz6804

Lights behind you can shine light onto the monitor. The best situation is to have the monitor near or against the wall with diffuse light behind it. The light should be of equal intensity to the average picture level of the monitor. The easiest way to adjust this is to make a BMP equal to your native resolution, and flood fill it with 50% gray. That is, red = green = blue = 128 / 255. Then open as a slide show to that image such that it fills your entire monitor. Adjust the backlight such that it appears to be the same color and intensity as the 50% gray displayed.

Given the choice between 1024x768 @ 85 Hz and 1600x1200 @ 75 Hz (the specced refresh rate for that resolution) I would likely only take the 1600x1200 if it has a minimum frame rate of 75 Hz. Else, I would take the 1024x768. I personally always strive to make my MINIMUM (not average) FPS to be equal or greater to the monitor's refresh rate.


----------



## Blitz6804

Also, it is a little underpowered in my opinion for 1080p, but if you really want a new graphics card for around $110 (the cost of an HD 4670 AGP) I would instead recommend an HD 5670 PCIe for the new motherboard. Same cost, more power. The cheapest HD 5770 1 GB is about $30 more. For 1080p, you DEFINITELY want 1 GB and not 512 MB if at all possible. I am willing to place money down that an HD 5770 with a 225x12 (2700 MHz; taking into account the supposed 225 MHz HTT limitation on the server board with your new 180's 12x mutli) would beat an HD 4670 AGP with a 250x12 (3000 MHz) CPU on anything except Crysis. Heck, I would be willing to go as far to say it would likely also beat 260x12 (3120 MHz) given its extra "kick."


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Lights behind you can shine light onto the monitor. The best situation is to have the monitor near or against the wall with diffuse light behind it. The light should be of equal intensity to the average picture level of the monitor. The easiest way to adjust this is to make a BMP equal to your native resolution, and flood fill it with 50% gray. That is, red = green = blue = 128 / 255. Then open as a slide show to that image such that it fills your entire monitor. Adjust the backlight such that it appears to be the same color and intensity as the 50% gray displayed.

Given the choice between 1024x768 @ 85 Hz and 1600x1200 @ 75 Hz (the specced refresh rate for that resolution) I would likely only take the 1600x1200 if it has a minimum frame rate of 75 Hz. Else, I would take the 1024x768. I personally always strive to make my MINIMUM (not average) FPS to be equal or greater to the monitor's refresh rate.


I use a lamp in the corner, it works good but maybe I'll get more technical when I get a new monitor. As long as my minimum framerate is 30 or better I can't tell the difference anyways.

EDIT: anyways, so I need a 5770.....they are not that expensive. I hope I can get at least a 250FSB on that Tyan Tomkat.

EDIT: ohh I just remembered how do I tell if I need pci-e 16x-2.0, 2.1 or what?


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, there are two ways to do it: the easy way, and the hard way. The hard way (what I did) is to try to estimate how many watts you need and buy appropriately. It takes four puck lights mounted in the corners of my TV to do it correctly. The easy way is to put your lamp on a dimmer switch and just turn it down until it is the correct brightness. It is one of those things that really seems like a minor, trivial detail until you do it and realize what you were missing.


----------



## Blitz6804

Aside of Fermi, the GTX 295, and an HD 5970, most cards will be fine in PCIe 2.0 8x or PCIe 1.0 16x. Those three cards start to show a bit of a determinable penalty in gaming, whereas lesser cards like an HD 5870, a GTX 285, or similar will show a penalty only in benchmarks. Cards slower than them (HD 5770, GTX 260, or similar) are completely indistinguishable on the lowered bandwidth I reference above.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Aside of Fermi, the GTX 295, and an HD 5970, most cards will be fine in PCIe 2.0 8x or PCIe 1.0 16x. Those three cards start to show a bit of a determinable penalty in gaming, whereas lesser cards like an HD 5870, a GTX 285, or similar will show a penalty only in benchmarks. Cards slower than them (HD 5770, GTX 260, or similar) are completely indistinguishable on the lowered bandwidth I reference above.

I guess I should have been clearer. The specs for the Tomkat say it has a PCI-E 16x slot. I was looking at the egg and see that there are different types of PCI-E 16x cards and don't understand the difference or what I can use.


----------



## Blitz6804

PCIe is backwards compatible. You can put a PCIe 2.0 card into a PCIe 1.0 slot. PCIe 2.1 is, as far as I know, also the same as PCIe 2.1 in terms of backward compatibility. Technically speaking, PCIe 2.0 is twice as fast as PCIe 1.0 of equal width. (As I said, PCIe 2.0 8x = PCIe 1.0 16x.) I believe that PCIe 3.0 (no card presently on the market) will be twice that of PCIe 2.0, or four times that of PCIe 1.0.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
PCIe is backwards compatible. You can put a PCIe 2.0 card into a PCIe 1.0 slot. PCIe 2.1 is, as far as I know, also the same as PCIe 2.1 in terms of backward compatibility. Technically speaking, PCIe 2.0 is twice as fast as PCIe 1.0 of equal width. (As I said, PCIe 2.0 8x = PCIe 1.0 16x.) I believe that PCIe 3.0 (no card presently on the market) will be twice that of PCIe 2.0, or four times that of PCIe 1.0.

so the Tomkat is 1.0....what happens when I put a 2.0 card in there, does it run at only 8x speed?

actually this is what it says....now I'm really confused.

Model Tomcat K8E (S2865)
CPU Type Socket 939
Chipset nVIDIA nForce4; SMSC DME1737
Memory type Dual Channel DDR 400/333
Memory sockets 4
Max. Memory 4 GB
Graphics interface PCI-Express X16
PCI-Express X16 (X8) 1
PCI-Express X1 (X2,X4) 2
PCI 4
Integrated PCI Graphics ATI RAGE XL PCI graphics
RAID Yes ( 0, 1, 0+1)
LAN Broadcom BCM5721 GbE controller & CK8-04 integrated MAC with Marvell 88E1111-CAA GbE PHY
Audio Realtek ALC655 5.1 channel audio CODEC
Codec channel 8
IDE ATA 2 ATA-133/100/66/33, 4*SATAII (3.0Gb/s)
USB 2.0 8 (4 by cable)
PCB size 12" x 9.6"
Form Factor ATX
IEEE 1394 2 1394b

won't that kinda suck running a 5770 @ 8x?


----------



## Blitz6804

It will run at PCIe 1.0 16x, as the board is rated for, it just happens to be the same speed as if you had a PCIe 2.0 8x. The advantage of getting an HD 5770 now is that when you eventually go to Socket 1156, 1366, or AM3, you can get another and crossfire the two of them.


----------



## Tator Tot

PCIe 2.0 x1 = PCIe 1.x x2

So x8 PCIe 1.0 = PCIe x4

But that shouldn't be too bad. I'd thing a 7% hit in performance at max.


----------



## Blitz6804

We are going to need to wait on Tator for this, but I read "PCI-Express X16 (X8) 1" as meaning the slot is physically 16x, but electrically 8x... I think that is why he picked the numbers he did for his post just prior to mine. For the record, PCIe 1.0 8x is a just a hair slower than AGP 8x. 2000 MBps compared to 2133 MBps.


----------



## ny_driver

hmmmm...that would not be a step forward then if it is the way you are interpreting it.


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, therein lies an interesting question. Many cards on the market cannot saturate an 8x PCIe 1.0 connection. Even if the bandwidth is lower than AGP 8x, many cards will not hit the bandwidth limit. Even those that do will likely outperform the fastest AGP cards available simply because they (appear) to have stopped making AGP cards. I would be interested to see how an HD 5870 would operate on AGP... you would expect slightly better than PCIe 1.0 8x, but who knows if such research is even cost effective considering that AGP shrinks market share every year.

Until the release of Fermi, the HD 5870 is the fastest single-core GPU on the market right now. TechPowerUp has done an article checking the effects of bandwidth on this card. It has bee linked in this thread before, but I think it bares repeating. Your board would be the equivalent of the PCIe 2.0 4x. As Tator said, the worst test seems to be about 7-8% the performance of PCIe 2.0 16x in mid-range resolutions; higher for low resolutions and lower for high resolutions.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Well, therein lies an interesting question. Many cards on the market cannot saturate an 8x PCIe 1.0 connection. Even if the bandwidth is lower than AGP 8x, many cards will not hit the bandwidth limit. Even those that do will likely outperform the fastest AGP cards available simply because they (appear) to have stopped making AGP cards. I would be interested to see how an HD 5870 would operate on AGP... you would expect slightly better than PCIe 1.0 8x, but who knows if such research is even cost effective considering that AGP shrinks market share every year.

Until the release of Fermi, the HD 5870 is the fastest single-core GPU on the market right now. TechPowerUp has done an article checking the effects of bandwidth on this card. It has bee linked in this thread before, but I think it bares repeating. Your board would be the equivalent of the PCIe 2.0 4x. As Tator said, the worst test seems to be about 7-8% the performance of PCIe 2.0 16x in mid-range resolutions; higher for low resolutions and lower for high resolutions.

Very interesting and informative. I would only be losing ~5%, so no big deal. But which 5770 to get...that is the question? (5870 is way too much) I'm not buying anything though until I see how it overclocks. It has onboard graffix for now. If I can get 250FSB......it's on!


----------



## Blitz6804

Since you want to go 1080p, you definitely want something with 1 GB. When I went XFX this time out, the biggest deciding factor was warranty: XFX was the only company offering Lifetime warranty on the HD 5970. For the HD 5770, the warranties appear to be:

HIS, MSI, Powercolor, Sapphire: two years
Asus, Diamond*, Gigabyte: three years
XFX: Lifetime

*Caveat emptor: in my experience, Diamond does NOT honor their warranty. I received a DoA HD 3850 (no matter how much you underclocked it, ANY anti-aliasing caused the card to crash) from Newegg, and because of a mail-in rebate on the box, I had to RMA with Diamond instead of Newegg. Diamond replaced the card with another broken HD 3850, this one had to be slightly below reference clocks not to crash repeatedly. They ignored all calls and emails from that point; refused to replace or repair the card. I should have pressed the matter, but as I already bought my first HD 4870x2, I dropped it and sold the card as broken.


----------



## ny_driver

I was eying the XFX XXX version seen here. It has the highest clocks. EDIT:and it looks pretty cool, too.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814150464


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Since you want to go 1080p, you definitely want something with 1 GB. When I went XFX this time out, the biggest deciding factor was warranty: XFX was the only company offering Lifetime warranty on the HD 5970. For the HD 5770, the warranties appear to be:

HIS, MSI, Powercolor, Sapphire: two years
Asus, Diamond*, Gigabyte: three years
XFX: Lifetime

*Caveat emptor: in my experience, Diamond does NOT honor their warranty. I received a DoA HD 3850 (no matter how much you underclocked it, ANY anti-aliasing caused the card to crash) from Newegg, and because of a mail-in rebate on the box, I had to RMA with Diamond instead of Newegg. Diamond replaced the card with another broken HD 3850, this one had to be slightly below reference clocks not to crash repeatedly. They ignored all calls and emails from that point; refused to replace or repair the card. I should have pressed the matter, but as I already bought my first HD 4870x2, I dropped it and sold the card as broken.


 Sucks on the diamond card. Looks like there's another company I wont be buying from.

As for XFX, same reason, double lifetime warranty makes for a really nice reselling point.









ny_driver, even if the Tyan doesn't OC all that well, a current PCIe card will be leaps and bounds better than an AGP card. Not to mention it has a whole lot more resale value. 
And as Blitz stated earlier, when you do decide to upgrade to more current hardware, you'll already have a decent GPU that you can transfer to it.


----------



## Blitz6804

The nice thing about XXX editions is their factory overclock. I advised my sister to buy an XXX HD 5870, which is the same exact clocks as that HD 5770 you are eying. (Just twice the stream processors.) Also a nice thing about it is that it comes with a free copy of Battleforge, which is rare for XFX graphics cards. (Unlike the Sapphire that I had to return which came with Battleforge and Dirt2, my XFX came with NO software.)


----------



## ny_driver

EDITED:10:20AM
You guys speak the truth. I should just go ahead and switch to PCI-E, and keep my AGP system as a backup racing machine for guests or something. I need more pedals though.









On a happy note, I sent crucial the 4 x 512 ballistix RMA, and I have received notice that my order has been processed and is in the mail. I set up the RMA before I got the memory back. So when I tested it I was mad when only 1 stick was bad, but I said what the heck maybe they will replace it anyways. Apparently they do not test the stuff, or else they were somehow able to come up with the same errors the ebay buyer said he did - that I could not. Either way it sounds like I have 4 x 1GB Crucial pc3200 on the way.


----------



## Blitz6804

Woot woot!

For me, when I made the jump from AGP to PCIe (HD 3850 to HD 3850) I was very disappointed; the Diamond cards got the same or lower FPS than my Sapphire card. Once I got the HD 4870x2, I decided never again to look back. My nForce 3 board has been in the garage ever since.

If you go from an X1950 to an HD 4890 or HD 5770, you will be blown out of the water in my opinion. (I have used an X1950 AGP and an X1950 PCIe; trust me, you will NOT be disappointed. Even an HD 3850 is a decent upgrade, but given the cost IF you find one, it really is not worth it.)


----------



## BlackOmega

Nice ny_driver! 4 new sticks is always nice









As far as GPUs' are concerned, it seems as though my upgrades have always doubled the performance of the GPU or GPUs they were replacing.

I went from an AGP 6200OC to 2 PCIe 6800's, which actually over--doubled the performance; then to a 9600 GSO which was more powerful than the 2 6800's. Got another 9600 GSO for SLI; then, finally, to a 4870 which is more powerful than the 2 9600's; and eventually added another 4870. So now to double/over double the performance I'd need to upgrade to a 5970.


----------



## Blitz6804

Actually, to truely double, you would need either a pair of HD 5870s or one of two of the HD 5970 4 GBs. The XFX and Sapphire cards are 850/1200; the Asus card is 825/1200. In the case of the XFX and the Sapphire, then, they are literally HD 5870x2s.

If you bought an HD 5970, it likely will not get to HD 5870 clocks unless you overvolt (mine needs nothing extra to do 800/1200, one step to get 825/1200, and two to do 850/1200) and find a better way to cool it. Any overvolting whatsoever will cause my PWMs to get too hot under stress.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Actually, to truely double, you would need either a pair of HD 5870s or one of two of the HD 5970 4 GBs. The XFX and Sapphire cards are 850/1200; the Asus card is 825/1200. In the case of the XFX and the Sapphire, then, they are literally HD 5870x2s.

If you bought an HD 5970, it likely will not get to HD 5870 clocks unless you overvolt (mine needs nothing extra to do 800/1200, one step to get 825/1200, and two to do 850/1200) and find a better way to cool it. Any overvolting whatsoever will cause my PWMs to get too hot under stress.


 I'd most likely go with XFX again; they've been good to me. Even their tech support was fast and actually very helpful. Unlike some of the members past experiences.

But yeah I'll probably go with a 5970 in a bout a year or so when the price drops a good amount.

Kind of to de-rail the GPU convo, how do you like Win7 so far? I've been using it lately and to tell you honestly I am not all that impressed with it. It seems as though I'm constantly having issues running my games, some of which are a little older. They don't maximize or play full screen properly and I've been BSODing on cold boots (DRIVER_IRQL).







I haven't even overclocked this thing at all. WTH?

I think I'm going to back to XP as soon as I can slipstream the damn RAID drivers on to the install disk.


----------



## Blitz6804

I think you have an error somewhere... I can play any, every, and all games* I played in XP provided it is not a 16-bit program. In my opinion, Windows 7 is far superior to Vista; likely slightly better than XP.

*Some really old games, such as Age of Empires I (1997), its expansion (1998), Age of Empires II (1999), its expansion (2000), and The Neverhood (1996) require you to kill Explorer.exe after booting the game or the colors are a little screwy. Anyone with DOS knowledge can easily make a batch file to kill Explorer.exe, boot the game, and when the game quits, reboot Explorer.exe. Problem solved.


----------



## ny_driver

I wish I knew the differences between the different DFI boards.
We have the UT nF4 sli-dr, and the expert, this one that I don't know what is http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...:X:RTQ:US:1123 Can anyone tell because this may have a good cpu, too? I am waiting to hear a definite answer.
Then we have the nF4-D and the Ultra-D. Would any one of those be good?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
I wish I knew the differences between the different DFI boards.
We have the UT nF4 sli-dr, and the expert, this one that I don't know what is http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...:X:RTQ:US:1123 Can anyone tell because this may have a good cpu, too? I am waiting to hear a definite answer.
Then we have the nF4-D and the Ultra-D. Would any one of those be good?

The NF4-D and Ultra-D are very similar in every respect (2 PCIe slots, 4 SATA ports, jumper switching to SLI mode) the only difference between the 2 is that the NF4-D is SATA I where as the Ultra-D is SATA II.

The SLI-DR is like the ultra-D except that is has SLI (x8/x8), 8 SATA ports (4 SATAII, 4 SATA I) and has a separate controller for the second set of SATA ports. You have to physically move jumpers to enable SLI.

The expert is very similar to the SLI-DR except that it has electronic SLI switching rather than having to move jumpers.

The boards are all the same with the exception of the expert. DFI disabled SLI on the ULTRA-D; SLI and SATA II on the NF4-D. They disabled it by laser cutting the jumpers on the NF4 chip. So that means that you can easily enable them if you're handy with a soldering iron.
On both of my Ultra-D's I re-enabled SLI by means of soldering the jumpers back together.

If you do get a DFI 939 (with the exception being the CFX3200) you will quickly realize how superior of an overclocking board they really are. Rock solid steady voltages, so many BIOS option it can make your head spin. But once you use it, you'll come to the realization of how much other boards are really lacking.

EDIT:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
I think you have an error somewhere... I can play any, every, and all games* I played in XP provided it is not a 16-bit program. In my opinion, Windows 7 is far superior to Vista; likely slightly better than XP.

*Some really old games, such as Age of Empires I (1997), its expansion (1998), Age of Empires II (1999), its expansion (2000), and The Neverhood (1996) require you to kill Explorer.exe after booting the game or the colors are a little screwy. Anyone with DOS knowledge can easily make a batch file to kill Explorer.exe, boot the game, and when the game quits, reboot Explorer.exe. Problem solved.

Well the games I'm having issues with aren't really that old, 2006/2007 and newer but not specifically for Win7 although assassins creed seemed to identify it as Vista.
Aside from that, I can't even really tell a difference between DX9 and DX10. Not to mention the gadgets, while kind of a neat gizmo, aren't really all that special to me. I had a lot of very similar things on XP's desktop that would start automatically as well.

I like the neat themes and the new sound profiles, but I'm sure if I really wanted to I could make XP do the same thing. Hell I could even reskin it so it looks more fancy.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
The NF4-D and Ultra-D are very similar in every respect (2 PCIe slots, 4 SATA ports, jumper switching to SLI mode) the only difference between the 2 is that the NF4-D is SATA I where as the Ultra-D is SATA II.

The SLI-DR is like the ultra-D except that is has SLI (x8/x8), 8 SATA ports (4 SATAII, 4 SATA I) and has a separate controller for the second set of SATA ports. You have to physically move jumpers to enable SLI.

The expert is very similar to the SLI-DR except that it has electronic SLI switching rather than having to move jumpers.

The boards are all the same with the exception of the expert. DFI disabled SLI on the ULTRA-D; SLI and SATA II on the NF4-D. They disabled it by laser cutting the jumpers on the NF4 chip. So that means that you can easily enable them if you're handy with a soldering iron.
On both of my Ultra-D's I re-enabled SLI by means of soldering the jumpers back together.

If you do get a DFI 939 (with the exception being the CFX3200) you will quickly realize how superior of an overclocking board they really are. Rock solid steady voltages, so many BIOS option it can make your head spin. But once you use it, you'll come to the realization of how much other boards are really lacking.

Can you tell what that one in the picture is though? I'm looking at several at ebay now. I didn't even look anywhere else yet. So a UT nF4 SLI-DR would be the best except for electronic sli- switching on the expert?.
EDIT: best except for the stupid sideways HS retention bracket.
EDIT:I'm either getting an SLI-DR or the Expert. Probably the expert, mostly because of the heatsink placement.


----------



## BlackOmega

It's hard to tell really. The angle of the picture covers up most of the identifying characteristics. And since DFI was pretty inconsistent with their board markings in regards to SLI, some had the SLI logo printed on and some did not, is yet another thing that makes them really hard to distinguish.

For example here's a Nforce 4 SLI-DR (note: DR designates the additional 4 SATA ports), it doesn't have SLI stenciled anywhere on the board. But since it has the extra 4 SATA ports it's safe to say that it's a DR board which is an SLI board.










However, on the non DR boards (notice the 4 SATA ports missing to the left of the chipset fan), it becomes a lot more difficult since there are no other distinguishing characteristics. 
All NF4-D, Ultra-D's, and SLI-D boards will look like this:










The only one that's considerably different is the expert, which has the RAM slots moved, notice the jumpers in the center are gone, and of course it has a little expert logo to the right of the chipset fan.


----------



## BlackOmega

Ok I found a picture of a newer SLI board. Notice the SLI logo right above the RAM slots.

SLI-DR:









SLI-D:


----------



## ny_driver

I think I'm going to grab this Expert for $124.95 although I won't be able to test it right away. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT


----------



## BlackOmega

You might want to hold off, you should be able to buy a new-in-box Expert for that kind of money. Well at least when I was looking that's how much they were going for.


----------



## ny_driver

I'll look around, but where?


----------



## BlackOmega

Well ebay seems to be the best place for those boards to tell you quite honestly. ABout once a week there's new listings. 
One of the members here wound up getting an SLI-DR + an opty 165 +2 x 512 Crucial ballistix for $90. So it definitely pays off to wait.

Or, if you want, I have 2 Ultra-D's that I've converted to SLI. I'd be willing to part with one for a reasonable price. With that opty 180 I was able to hit 320 refclk on both boards (which leads me to assume that that's the CPU's limit). Although, you'd never need to run it that high. For 24/7 I ran it @ 265x11 (2915MHz)


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well ebay seems to be the best place for those boards to tell you quite honestly. ABout once a week there's new listings. 
One of the members here wound up getting an SLI-DR + an opty 165 +2 x 512 Crucial ballistix for $90. So it definitely pays off to wait.

Or, if you want, I have 2 Ultra-D's that I've converted to SLI. I'd be willing to part with one for a reasonable price. With that opty 180 I was able to hit 320 refclk on both boards (which leads me to assume that that's the CPU's limit). Although, you'd never need to run it that high. For 24/7 I ran it @ 265x11 (2915MHz)


well, I don't see anything really better about the expert after what you've explained to me and what I have read. Your Ultra-D's have SLI, what is DR...is it important?

Sounds like I'll take you up on that offer BO. What is reasonable?

EDIT: someone snatched up that expert while I was over here talking about it...lol


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


well, I don't see anything really better about the expert after what you've explained to me and what I have read. Your Ultra-D's have SLI, what is DR...is it important?

Sounds like I'll take you up on that offer BO. What is reasonable?


 DR just means that it has those 4 extra SATA ports at the bottom of the board. However, those ports are SATA I and have a separate onboard controller (Silicon Image).

Yep my ultra-D's have SLI, I converted the boards for [email protected] use.

On one of the boards I lapped the NB heatsink which helped lower NB temps by 10C.









As far as price is concerned, PM me and we'll work out the details.


----------



## ny_driver

So should I get like 2 of these? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814150462 or would I be better off with 1 even higher quality card?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


So should I get like 2 of these? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814150462 or would I be better off with 1 even higher quality card?


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814131327

Get two of those. They are the models I have. The overclocking is not great on them because you have to BIOS mod for extra voltage.

But they use below stock volts. And the fan is very quiet. Even while gaming on 1920x1440. 
Two of them blasts through most games at that res.


----------



## ny_driver

They are a little cheaper, but they lack the double lifetime warranty of XFX.
EDIT: And what I meant by better off was with a 939 Opteron 180. Would the extra card be kind of a waste?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


They are a little cheaper, but they lack the double lifetime warranty of XFX.
EDIT: And what I meant by better off was with a 939 Opteron 180. Would the extra card be kind of a waste?


No, the higher the res you go, the less reliant games become on your CPU, and the more reliant they become on your GPU.

And the XFX Model is the Rev3 PCB, very cheap. Poor overclocking. And worse cooling.


----------



## ny_driver

So the powercolor is made of better PCB and therefore a better card all around?


----------



## Blitz6804

I did not know you were considering two cards. If you do not have a Crossfire board, you cannot use both together. Keep that in mind. An SLI board cannot do Crossfire. A Crossfire board might be able to do SLI.

Equal in power to two HD 5770s is one HD 5870. The advantage of paying the extra $100 is that you only use one PCIe slot, instead of two, so if you want to get another down the line you can.

If you want to Crossfire with a 939 system, make sure you have the Crossfire Xpress 3200 chipset on the motherboard. nForce4 cannot Crossfire, regardless of what flavor nForce4 it is.


----------



## ny_driver

Can't I do that with SLI?








EDIT: oh...does SLI limit me to nvidia cards?


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes. If you get an SLI board, you can only use multi-card setups that are SLI. If you get a Crossfire board, you can (generally) only use Crossfire setups, but some creative driver tweaking will permit SLI on them. Intel x58 boards can use either SLI or Crossfire.

With an nForce4 board, you could get 2x GTX 285 if you wanted, but 2x HD 5870 will not operate in tandem. (Only independently.)


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


So the powercolor is made of better PCB and therefore a better card all around?


Yes, and do note what Blitz said as well.

PowerColor uses a custom PCB, and it's only component not worth a toot is the Voltage regulator. But that's only because it lacks Software support.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Yes. If you get an SLI board, you can only use multi-card setups that are SLI. If you get a Crossfire board, you can (generally) only use Crossfire setups, but some creative driver tweaking will permit SLI on them. Intel x58 boards can use either SLI or Crossfire.

With an nForce4 board, you could get 2x GTX 285 if you wanted, but 2x HD 5870 will not operate in tandem. (Only independently.)


Wow those nvidia cards are crazy expensive and look worse according to the specs. What's up with that? All the #s are lower, but it has a much wider memory interface.
EDIT: I'll probably just get like a 5830...it's close to the 5870 and $150+ cheaper.


----------



## Blitz6804

Therein lies the problem: different definitions of "stream processors." If I remember right, 1 nVidia is worth 5-8 ATi ones. One of the most important things to consider is making sure you pick neutral comparisons: Texture fill rates for example. The nVidia GTX 285 is 51.8 billion per second, whereas one of my cores is 64 billion per second. The GTX 285 has 240 CUDA cores (stream processors) while I have 1600 shader cores (stream processors) per GPU. That is 0.2158 billion per nVidia CUDA cores, and 0.0400 billion per ATi shader cores. Meaning that it is 5.395 ATi cores to each CUDA core with this comparison.


----------



## redhat_ownage

also if the boards with the vtt regulator with the pins facing the top of the board are made in taiwan and are alot better than the ones made in china that have the vtt regulator facing the left.

also anyone need the chipset cooler for the dfi?


----------



## Blitz6804

If you are going to use the server board you have, the HD 5830 is a good choice.


----------



## ny_driver

I'm getting an SLI ready Ultra-D from B.O., so that server board is probably not going to get used. Maybe I can sell it or something.


----------



## Kryton

Good news guys!

My RMA was approved and will be sending off the RAM Friday. I'm getting a set of 2x 2GB sticks in exchange for a set of 2x 1GB sticks with an equivalent PC rating since they don't make those anymore. 
Not bad for a $59.99 investment on the originals and got to use them for a little while too. I'm loving the replacement set I bought and they are terrific sticks, well worth the money for them and wish I had been able to buy 2 sets of these but the egg doesn't have them listed anymore. 
Anyway, I'll let you guys know exactly what I get and how they do once they arrive.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Good news guys!

My RMA was approved and will be sending off the RAM Friday. I'm getting a set of 2x 2GB sticks in exchange for a set of 2x 1GB sticks with an equivalent PC rating since they don't make those anymore. 
Not bad for a $59.99 investment on the originals and got to use them for a little while too. I'm loving the replacement set I bought and they are terrific sticks, well worth the money for them and wish I had been able to buy 2 sets of these but the egg doesn't have them listed anymore. 
Anyway, I'll let you guys know exactly what I get and how they do once they arrive.


congrats...that's great news. I just had good RMA news too. I'm getting 4x1GB ddr400 Crucial in exchange for 4x512MB Ballistix ddr400








Hi from Baltimore, MD. at the Ramada Limited....54Mbps wireless. It's nice. Nothing fancy. ($60 a night/2 double beds) I'll try to stay here next week too, I think









I wonder if I could overclock my laptop? It is a Dell [email protected] with 256MB memory.


----------



## Blitz6804

Some laptops can be overclocked. However, I would advise against it as most laptop cooling is not sufficient to handle an overclocked unit.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Some laptops can be overclocked. However, I would advise against it as most laptop cooling is not sufficient to handle an overclocked unit.

It's a PIII. I'm pretty sure it's fairly robust... And even if it does cook, you really haven't lost anything...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 
It's a PIII. I'm pretty sure it's fairly robust... And even if it does cook, you really haven't lost anything...

Dude, even that....I would absolutely LOVE to even have a P3 laptop.

Pio's never had a laptop, and has been wondering what this mobile computering thing is all about.

Maybe I should save and get one off fleabay.......


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Laptops are pretty snazzy. Been rocking one for a few months now.

Shh. It's got a C2D in it!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Laptops are pretty snazzy. Been rocking one for a few months now.

Shh. It's got a C2D in it!









The blasphemy!!!! I'm telling joe!!!























Oh wait....


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
The blasphemy!!!! I'm telling joe!!!























Oh wait....































That was G.O.'s general reaction too when he found out.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Laptops are pretty snazzy. Been rocking one for a few months now.

Shh. It's got a C2D in it!









Pffft... Core 2 Duo.... try a Core i3









<3


----------



## Blitz6804

Whatever you do when buying an ATi equipped laptop: avoid Sony, Panasonic, and Toshiba. Those three companies have opted out of future Catalyst Control Center versions. If you have a laptop with ATi graphics by someone other than those three, you can install Catalyst Control Center 10.3 or newer natively. People with those three manufacturers are stuck with Catalyst Control Center 9.12 or older, after hacking it with ATi Mobility Modder 1.2.1.

In terms of durability, HP is one of the better companies in my experience and Sony is pretty bad. Gateway could have improved recently, but while I was in high school (holy crow, like ten years ago now) my friend's Gateway died every 2-3 months.

My Toshiba I have three complaints with:

EIST does not work properly, and though I was promised a BIOS fix a year ago, it is still missing;
the motherboard died when the laptop was 10 months old, it took like two weeks to get it fixed at an authorized repair center... imagine if I did not have the top-of-the-line service plan?; and,
the aforementioned ATi CCC Opt-out.
The Dell I had was REALLY a piece of garbage. In the ten months I owned it, it had the motherboard replaced thrice, the monitor twice, and was scheduled to have each replaced again when I finally asked Dell for a refund. The advantage of them, however, is whenever I had a problem there was a technician on my door step the next day to fix it.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
Whatever you do when buying an ATi equipped laptop: avoid Sony, Panasonic, and Toshiba. Those three companies have opted out of future Catalyst Control Center versions. If you have a laptop with ATi graphics by someone other than those three, you can install Catalyst Control Center 10.3 or newer natively. People with those three manufacturers are stuck with Catalyst Control Center 9.12 or older, after hacking it with ATi Mobility Modder 1.2.1.

In terms of durability, HP is one of the better companies in my experience and Sony is pretty bad. Gateway could have improved recently, but while I was in high school (holy crow, like ten years ago now) my friend's Gateway died every 2-3 months.

My Toshiba I have three complaints with:

EIST does not work properly, and though I was promised a BIOS fix a year ago, it is still missing;
the motherboard died when the laptop was 10 months old, it took like two weeks to get it fixed at an authorized repair center... imagine if I did not have the top-of-the-line service plan?; and,
the aforementioned ATi CCC Opt-out.
The Dell I had was REALLY a piece of garbage. In the ten months I owned it, it had the motherboard replaced thrice, the monitor twice, and was scheduled to have each replaced again when I finally asked Dell for a refund. The advantage of them, however, is whenever I had a problem there was a technician on my door step the next day to fix it.

Got me an ASUS laptop. Works supremely well for what I ask of it (which really is just for writing). I considered getting a netbook, but the size of all netbooks that I looked at (or, more precisely, lack thereof) was the deal-breaker. Took me ages to find a laptop with a keyboard that did not drive me batty, not to mention was priced within my self-imposed budget. So far the machine has been amazingly trouble-free and bulletproof. I hope the trend continues.









Best thing is that my productivity in writing has actually improved dramatically. To me, that has always been the most important thing.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
I wonder if I could overclock my laptop? It is a Dell [email protected] with 256MB memory.

that's a good deal on the room!
Don't try overclocking. You'll have to do it through software, it won't be very stable, and you don't want to be stuck without a computer away from home!


----------



## NZi

I'm having a weird problem on my A8N, I've got it set so the ram is 1:1, but its always about 10mhz behind the Bus Link. Any ideas? It was fine untill I got above 220, at 225 the ram was at 215, at 230 the ram was 220 ect.


----------



## Blitz6804

It is because you have a 10.5 multiplier. The memory is computed as follows:

Divisor = ceiling{(CPU speed * stock HTT) / (divider * HTT)}
Memory speed = CPU speed / divisor

In your case:

Divisor = ceiling{(2625.2 * 200) / (200 * 250)} = ceiling{525,040 / 50,000} = ceiling{10.5} = 11
Memory speed = 2625.2 / 11 = 238.65

Half-integer multipliers tend to introduce strange things in memory speeds as we have just shown. A 10x or a 11x would solve that issue. However, I would test your bandwidths and benchmarks with Everest and SuperPi... if the system performs best at DDR-477 as above, why worry about it?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NZi*


I'm having a weird problem on my A8N, I've got it set so the ram is 1:1, but its always about 10mhz behind the Bus Link. Any ideas? It was fine untill I got above 220, at 225 the ram was at 215, at 230 the ram was 220 ect.











Mine does the same thing when I use a stock 9x multiplier (on my Opty 165). Like Blitz said, try going down to the 10x multiplier, and see how that works for you. You might find that your current settings might be faster though, by using the Everest Memory benchmark (found in Everest Ultimate).


----------



## NZi

Ah thanks to both of you + rep







. I found its faster at 250 and the x10 then 240 with x10.5 with the everest benchmark.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NZi*


Ah thanks to both of you + rep







. I found its faster at 250 and the x10 then 240 with x10.5 with the everest benchmark.


I have found that higher HTT speeds with a lower multiplier (even if the RAM speed is still the same) usually ends up being faster as well. I'm not talking RAM dividers, I'm talking about RAM speed (as close as I could get to the same at least).

For example:
I tried running 200x9 with the 250 divider
250x7.5 with the 200 divider
325x5.5 with the 166 divider (might have used 6x multi, don't remember)

And the higher the HTT speed was, the faster my memory benchmarks came out to be. Even though my memory speeds were just about equal on each run.

Yet another reason why I need to find a board capable of 350+ HTT stable with a dual core....


----------



## theCanadian

Which OS should Second Life get? XP or Win7. She's only got 2GB of RAM.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


Which OS should Second Life get? XP or Win7. She's only got 2GB of RAM.


Why not experiment with Linux


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


Which OS should Second Life get? XP or Win7. She's only got 2GB of RAM.


Even with Windows Vista, that rig would work beautifully. So Windows 7, or as Tator recommended, you could try out Linux too







.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Even with Windows Vista, that rig would work beautifully. So Windows 7, or as Tator recommended, you could try out Linux too







.


Well, from now on Second Life is going to be the rig I tinker with. I might put a small 5GB partition on for Ubuntu just for giggles, but I really want to fold on the 8800GTS, so I'm going to need Windows.

You say Win7 works well with only 2GB of DDR400? We shall see.

Edit: Also, I'm impressed with the temps in the BIOS. The CPU levels out at just over 30C with 1.35v at stock clocks. And that's using Arctic Silver Ceramique, without properly cleaning either the chip or the heatsink. And that might even go down after a couple power cycles. With the other Opty 165 I had, I think idle temps were above 30C under a Big Typhoon. I'm using a stock heatsink!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


Well, from now on Second Life is going to be the rig I tinker with. I might put a small 5GB partition on for Ubuntu just for giggles, but I really want to fold on the 8800GTS, so I'm going to need Windows.

You say Win7 works well with only 2GB of DDR400? We shall see.


That it does...and on a single core K8 clocked at a measly 1.8GHz. I honestly cannot tell a difference between what's in my sig, and my Opty 165 @ 3.1GHz + 4GB of RAM....until its game time.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I ran Vista 64-bit on 2GBs of RAM not too long ago. Even in gaming it felt fine. I'd say you'd be good to go on Win7, theCanadian.


----------



## theCanadian

Here she is. My project after I get some sleep.

Sorry about the cell phone pics.


----------



## pioneerisloud

You need to throw another good folding card on that beast and get them GPU clients up and going. If I remember right, roughly 1 GPU client will use an entire CPU core as well. So two good GPU cores running on that thing, ought to give you some good PPD







.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
You need to throw another good folding card on that beast and get them GPU clients up and going. If I remember right, roughly 1 GPU client will use an entire CPU core as well. So two good GPU cores running on that thing, ought to give you some good PPD







.

I'm not sure if it is consistent across all chipsets, but on my sig rig, each GPU client uses between 0% and 5% of a core in Win7 Pro 64, which is what I will be installing. I remember when I was folding with ATI GPU's it used to do that though.... But I think it has since been optimized.

In any regard, if I had another GPU, it would be in there. Send me one!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 
I'm not sure if it is consistent across all chipsets, but on my sig rig, each GPU client uses between 0% and 5% of a core in Win7 Pro 64, which it what I will be installing. I remember when I was folding with ATI GPU's it used to do that though.... But I think it has since been optimized.

Hmm, it might be an issue with ATI cards then. Because folding on my card gives me a 50% load on my CPU. I want to say my old Nvidia cards didn't do that though.

Either way...get another card going on that other PCIe lane







.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Hmm, it might be an issue with ATI cards then. Because folding on my card gives me a 50% load on my CPU. I want to say my old Nvidia cards didn't do that though.

Either way...get another card going on that other PCIe lane







.

I'm guessing that's on your Opty rig you mentioned earlier?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 
I'm guessing that's on your Opty rig you mentioned earlier?

Same rig that's in my sig...just an Opty in place of the Athlon, and 4GB of RAM instead of 2. That's the only differences. I had to take the Opty and RAM out because the board's smoking and sparking at me every once in awhile. Don't want to ruin the good stuff







.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Same rig that's in my sig...just an Opty in place of the Athlon, and 4GB of RAM instead of 2. That's the only differences. I had to take the Opty and RAM out because the board's smoking and sparking at me every once in awhile. Don't want to ruin the good stuff







.

Ah, that's right. I remember now. Hey, if I ever decide I don't want eM anymore, you can have the board if you need it. Hell, I had to steal parts from eM to build Second Life, so eM isn't even operational right now. No OC'ing features though...

Hmmm, I just realized, eM is now basically back to the stock eMachine I originally bought. Just throw in my 3200+, a heatsink and a 300w PSU, and voila! Just like new!

The best days of eM's life are over


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 
Ah, that's right. I remember now. Hey, if I ever decide I don't want eM anymore, you can have the board if you need it. Hell, I had to steal parts from eM to build Second Life, so eM isn't even operational right now. No OC'ing features though...

Hmmm, I just realized, eM is now basically back to the stock eMachine I originally bought. Just throw in my 3200+, a heatsink and a 300w PSU, and voila! Just like new!

The best days of eM's life are over









Haha. Thanks, I appreciate the offer (for if you ever decide to get rid of her)







. I'm trying to save up right now for a new DDR3 board, Sempron 140, and some RAM to go with it







. So with any luck, this fire hazard won't be running much longer.


----------



## ny_driver

Geez it's dead in here today.







wake up

I thought I would stop in a mention that Crucial replaced all 4 of my 512mb sticks with 1GB sticks and only 1 was bad according to my testing. Pretty sweet if you ask me. (EDIT:I set up the rma based on the word of the guy I sold them to and then after testing just sent them back anyways)
I've only tested 1 pair of the new sticks and they are good @ 230MHz







, but not 235







.3-3-3-8 timing. I may be able to get higher if I mess with the timings. I wish I better understood wth I was doing when adjusting memory timings. Right now they are set to what cpuz says JEDEC is for 200MHz and they pass memtest up to 230 that way.

Ohhh the other reason I stopped in was to show off my new ride.







I actually just ordered everything except I didn't pay for the mobo yet. I ordered 2 of the CCBBE Opty180/tyan tomkat mobo combos for $225 shipped, so hopefully I'll get 3GHz out of 1 of those CPUs. They probably both came from the one crappy batch of CCBBE chips with my luck and both will suck, but I might get lucky.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
Geez it's dead in here today.







wake up

I thought I would stop in a mention that Crucial replaced all 4 of my 512mb sticks with 1GB sticks and only 1 was bad according to my testing. Pretty sweet if you ask me. I've only tested 1 pair of the new sticks and they are good @ 230MHz







, but not 235







.3-3-3-8 timing. I may be able to get higher if I mess with the timings. I wish I better understood wth I was doing when adjusting memory timings. Right now they are set to what cpuz says JEDEC is for 200MHz and they pass memtest up to 230 that way.

Ohhh the other reason I stopped in was to show off my new ride.







I actually just ordered everything except I didn't pay for the mobo yet. I ordered 2 of the CCBBE Opty180/tyan tomkat mobo combos for $225 shipped, so hopefully I'll get 3GHz out of 1 of those CPUs. They probably both came from the one crappy batch of CCBBE chips with my luck and both will suck, but I might get lucky.

Huh, I'm working on my "new" Opty 165 right now, and while I'm stuck at 2250Mhz because of a stock heatsink, the memory has absolutely been fantastic. I used to run the memory mixed with some other stuff, and it never overclocked very well. But currently, they are at 250MHz which is pretty good in my opinion. Especially since it's just Corsair Value Select RAM. All I did was put $1 heat spreaders on them (from Deal Extreme).

I completely forgot to set the divider and it just worked. I was surprised. And while I haven't done any sort of extensive stress testing, it did pass Prime95 for about 10 minutes while I was looking at my CPU load temps. Been running smoothly for about 6 hours.


----------



## pioneerisloud

That's pretty impressive off value sticks!


----------



## Blitz6804

Regards GPU folding: with my HD 5970, each GPU client uses 95% of a single core. Two GPUs and a CPU load my quad to almost 100% with the background processes running. My laptop's mobility Radeon HD 2600 will use almost 100% of one of the two cores.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Regards GPU folding: with my HD 5970, each GPU client uses 95% of a single core. Two GPUs and a CPU load my quad to almost 100% with the background processes running. My laptop's mobility Radeon HD 2600 will use almost 100% of one of the two cores.


Have you tried tweaking the environmentals?

http://www.overclock.net/overclock-n...les-lower.html

Also, if you get problems, try tweaking FLUSH value.


----------



## Blitz6804

I tried adjusting the variables there; I BSODed immediately and repeatedly. This is why I have a quad... I do not need to worry about folding crippling the rig.


----------



## BlackOmega

Hey fellas.









Anyone interested in some RAM?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Hey fellas.









Anyone interested in some RAM?

You've peaked my interest...go on....


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


You've peaked my interest...go on....


 Well, I've still got my Corsairs 2 matched sets of XMS plats (Infineon BH5 IC's IIRC) that and of course my Kingstons, also 2 matched sets.

Been thinking about selling some of my 939 stuff off as it's just sitting in boxes now. Hell my AM3 is sitting in a box, but as soon as I sell my wife's iMac, I'm putting it back together and she's going to use it.

Know anyone interested in a G5 iMac? I'll be so glad to get rid of that thing. OSX drives me crazy. It's so counter intuitive, it's like there is 2 C: drives that never coincide and you can lose documents. Pretty weird really.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hey fellas.









Anyone interested in some RAM?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well, I've still got my Corsairs 2 matched sets of XMS plats (Infineon BH5 IC's IIRC) that and of course my Kingstons, also 2 matched sets.

Been thinking about selling some of my 939 stuff off as it's just sitting in boxes now. Hell my AM3 is sitting in a box, but as soon as I sell my wife's iMac, I'm putting it back together and she's going to use it.

Know anyone interested in a G5 iMac? I'll be so glad to get rid of that thing. OSX drives me crazy. It's so counter intuitive, it's like there is 2 C: drives that never coincide and you can lose documents. Pretty weird really.


They all 1GB DDR400 sticks? I have two DDR rigs in my storage unit IIRC, that are missing RAM and drives only at this point.

Granted I REALLY should be saving for a new mobo, processor, and RAM for my main rig though....


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


They all 1GB DDR400 sticks? I have two DDR rigs in my storage unit IIRC, that are missing RAM and drives only at this point.

Granted I REALLY should be saving for a new mobo, processor, and RAM for my main rig though....


 The Corsairs are all 1 GB sticks. And I never even really OCed them at all. They've run @ DDR400 pretty much all their life. And getting DDR450 was really easy.

The Kingstons are 512 sticks. They don't achieve the bandwidth of the corsairs but they'll run @ 2-2-2-5-1T if you tweak them enough.


----------



## redhat_ownage

o man i totally forgot about my dfi board i was going to fix.
been wrapped up in my 555, it wont unlock but the the mem controller is pretty good.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage* 
o man i totally forgot about my dfi board i was going to fix.
been wrapped up in my 555, it wont unlock but the the mem controller is pretty good.

It won't unlock!? Those are supposed to be C3 steppings, and I thought C3 stepping meant it HAD to be a quad!?

There goes my plans if that's the case







.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


It won't unlock!? Those are supposed to be C3 steppings, and I thought C3 stepping meant it HAD to be a quad!?

There goes my plans if that's the case







.


Just get an Athlon II x4, it's a quad. Only $100


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Just get an Athlon II x4, it's a quad. Only $100


Hehe, actually...I'm doing even better than that!!!

On the 1st, I will have bought and paid for a Biostar 760G mobo, and an Athlon II x4 635 (2.9GHz)!!! I love Fry's! Too bad there's not one close to me, lol.


----------



## TestECull

I now have four gigs of ram. Just bought another set of G.Skill DDR400's off Newegg, same as the two I have. In two or three days I'll likely be wondering what the hell I'm doing wrong in regards to getting them to run DDR400 @ 1T.








But god knows I need the extra ram. Boot to the Head will live even longer.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TestECull*


I now have four gigs of ram. Just bought another set of G.Skill DDR400's off Newegg, same as the two I have. In two or three days I'll likely be wondering what the hell I'm doing wrong in regards to getting them to run DDR400 @ 1T.








But god knows I need the extra ram. Boot to the Head will live even longer.


You got PM via steam







.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TestECull* 
I now have four gigs of ram. Just bought another set of G.Skill DDR400's off Newegg, same as the two I have. In two or three days I'll likely be wondering what the hell I'm doing wrong in regards to getting them to run DDR400 @ 1T.








But god knows I need the extra ram. Boot to the Head will live even longer.

I don't think you will get 4 gigs to run at 1T. I have never been able to.
In my system with 4 gigs at 2T I get lower FPS than with 2 gigs at 1T.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I don't think you will get 4 gigs to run at 1T. I have never been able to. 
In my system with 4 gigs at 2T I get lower FPS than with 2 gigs at 1T.


I agree with the 2T with 4 sticks part. It will NOT run at 1T unless your RAM is at like 100, maybe 133Mhz.

And ironically enough, when I went 4GB, I didn't see any difference AT ALL in my framerates. But everything just felt so much smoother. Alt-tabbing out of game was instant. Bootup times were faster, etc...


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I agree with the 2T with 4 sticks part. It will NOT run at 1T unless your RAM is at like 100, maybe 133Mhz.

And ironically enough, when I went 4GB, I didn't see any difference AT ALL in my framerates. But everything just felt so much smoother. Alt-tabbing out of game was instant. Bootup times were faster, etc...


Maybe my FPS experience will be different when I install the HD4890/1GB I just bought. My AGP x1950pro/512MB is kind of struggling with everything maxed out and the slower 2T memory it seems. I'll try 4 GB again because I agree that everything else is better with 4GB except FPS in GTR2.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I agree with the 2T with 4 sticks part. It will NOT run at 1T unless your RAM is at like 100, maybe 133Mhz.

And ironically enough, when I went 4GB, I didn't see any difference AT ALL in my framerates. But everything just felt so much smoother. *Alt-tabbing out of game was instant. Bootup times were faste*r, etc...


 Well in XP going from 2GB to 4GB made about 0 difference for me. However, I did notice during my memory tweaking that I would find timings that just made my rig VERY responsive and it seemed to twitch like a junky needing a fix. But man it was fast.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Well in XP going from 2GB to 4GB made about 0 difference for me. However, I did notice during my memory tweaking that I would find timings that just made my rig VERY responsive and it seemed to twitch like a junky needing a fix. But man it was fast.

Well that's because you're on good ol' outdated Windows XP that can't use more than ~3GB of RAM anyway







. Upgrade to 7 already! Its what all the kewl kidz R doin!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Well that's because you're on good ol' outdated Windows XP that can't use more than ~3GB of RAM anyway







. Upgrade to 7 already! Its what all the kewl kidz R doin!

Actually, I'm using 7 right now.









But........I'm switching back to XP. 7 doesn't play nice with most of my games so .........7 goes buh-bai.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Well that's because you're on good ol' outdated Windows XP that can't use more than ~3GB of RAM anyway







. Upgrade to 7 already! Its what all the kewl kidz R doin!

I still run a few copies of Xp x64 and have been doing so ever since it was not cool to have X64 os's because of all the driver related issues


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well you guys suck then







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Well you guys suck then







.

I run both 7 & XP but only in X64. I always liked having the ability to run more than 4GB of System Ram.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Well you guys suck then







.











Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I run both 7 & XP but only in X64. I always liked having the ability to run more than 4GB of System Ram.









I have never had the need to run more than 2 in XP and to tell you quite honestly, with 3GB in 7 it runs just fine. But I hardly ever do more than game anyway, although I have been screwing around with recoding videos and gif and whatnot, which of course this thing just plows through that.


----------



## Blitz6804

For fun, I might be reinstalling XP x86 on my rig. It will be on RAID 0 SATA-150 drives, so we will see what happens. I am expecting to be able to use about 2.50 GB of RAM given my graphics card and sound card.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
It won't unlock!? Those are supposed to be C3 steppings, and I thought C3 stepping meant it HAD to be a quad!?

There goes my plans if that's the case







.

Nah.

It's the same 'ol story with them too. I know my 720 BE has four cores under the hood but the fourth is MIA whenever I try to unlock. However the success rate of getting at least one extra core going with a 555 is very high with the current chips being sold, esp for the CPMW batch chips. I know I'm lucky with my BPMW chip since it will unlock all four and clock nicely with them. Only drawback I've noted with it when unlocked are temps and man, they can get up there quickly!
You'd best be planning on a better than stock cooler for it or even H2O as I'm wanting to do with mine.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Nah.

It's the same 'ol story with them too. I know my 720 BE has four cores under the hood but the fourth is MIA whenever I try to unlock. However the success rate of getting at least one extra core going with a 555 is very high with the current chips being sold, esp for the CPMW batch chips. I know I'm lucky with my BPMW chip since it will unlock all four and clock nicely with them. Only drawback I've noted with it when unlocked are temps and man, they can get up there quickly!
You'd best be planning on a better than stock cooler for it or even H2O as I'm wanting to do with mine.

Weird. I just had assumed that the x2 555's were definitely unlock-able, since they're guaranteed C3 stepping chips. I thought C3 stepping was the way to go, and I thought they were only quads. Guess I was wrong







.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Weird. I just had assumed that the x2 555's were definitely unlock-able, since they're guaranteed C3 stepping chips. I thought C3 stepping was the way to go, and I thought they were only quads. Guess I was wrong







.

The 555 BE's are indeed C3 stepping chips along with the newer Quads. Mine is a C3 but it's one of the older ones (BPMW batch) and those don't have a good rep for unlocking stable like the CPMW's do. Mine does and that's where I got lucky.
I'd get a 555 BE and even if it won't unlock, these chips as a Dual have plenty of power anyway and clock like mad overall. Just watch your temps even if it's being used as a Dual since they do tend to run a little warmer than the C2's.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
The 555 BE's are indeed C3 stepping chips along with the newer Quads. Mine is a C3 but it's one of the older ones (BPMW batch) and those don't have a good rep for unlocking stable like the CPMW's do. Mine does and that's where I got lucky.
I'd get a 555 BE and even if it won't unlock, these chips as a Dual have plenty of power anyway and clock like mad overall. Just watch your temps even if it's being used as a Dual since they do tend to run a little warmer than the C2's.

Can't afford one right now







. I'm looking at an Athlon II x4 635 (comes in a combo with a Biostar 760G board for $90 at Fry's).


----------



## rhkcommander959

just working on one of my 939 rigs and found a problem with it - it's a DFI cfx3200-dr, it wont work with any of my three ATI 5750 or 5770 cards, but will work fine with a GT240, X1650 pro, and a 4850. Chipset is the xpress 3200 aka 580x and listed as compatible on the AMD site. But google found a few others with similar problems. The HEX error code LED glitches, the board wont boot. Also the 5700's do work on my i7 rigs

I have seen others have problems with 939 systems and the 5-series cards, example:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/27...r-express-mobohttp://www.eggxpert.com/forums/thread/584125.aspx

Has anyone else had this problem and/or know a fix? I'd like to rock the 939 rig again... Last time I had the pelt hooked up it was gaming at 3.4 and now i miss it







. I have seen some 580x chipsets with working 5700's but some haven't so I don't know if its the BIOS or what. I know PCIE 2.0 is backwards compatible so I don't know...


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


For fun, I might be reinstalling XP x86 on my rig. It will be on RAID 0 SATA-150 drives, so we will see what happens. I am expecting to be able to use about 2.50 GB of RAM given my graphics card and sound card.


 HAHA, with your rig and the 5970 that should make for one hell of a 3dm06 score.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Can't afford one right now







. I'm looking at an Athlon II x4 635 (comes in a combo with a Biostar 760G board for $90 at Fry's).


 Wow, that's like $10 off the CPU + a free mobo. That's one smokin deal!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*


just working on one of my 939 rigs and found a problem with it - it's a DFI cfx3200-dr, it wont work with any of my three ATI 5750 or 5770 cards, but will work fine with a GT240, X1650 pro, and a 4850. Chipset is the xpress 3200 aka 580x and listed as compatible on the AMD site. But google found a few others with similar problems. The HEX error code LED glitches, the board wont boot. Also the 5700's do work on my i7 rigs

I have seen others have problems with 939 systems and the 5-series cards, example:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/27...r-express-mobohttp://www.eggxpert.com/forums/thread/584125.aspx

Has anyone else had this problem and/or know a fix? I'd like to rock the 939 rig again... Last time I had the pelt hooked up it was gaming at 3.4 and now i miss it







. I have seen some 580x chipsets with working 5700's but some haven't so I don't know if its the BIOS or what. I know PCIE 2.0 is backwards compatible so I don't know...


 Can't help you there unfortunately. I do have a CFX3200DR but the latest GPUs' I have are 4870's, and they work just fine.

Possibly a BIOS update could fix any potential issues.

Aside from that I'm not surprised that it works with the GTS240 since it's basically a rebranded 8 series card (8800 perhaps?).


----------



## pioneerisloud

Actually, its about $30 off the CPU + a free $65 motherboard







. I found all the parts on newegg.

Athlon II x4 635 = $120
Biostar 760G = $65

Combo deal = $90 - $10 MIR + Shipping to me from anonymous OCN member

So figure I'm going to be out a total of ~$100 shipped. That's a savings of $85 on the combo. Plus there's a $10 MIR that I may or may not use.







I got a pretty good deal if you ask me







.

EDIT:
That's IF they happen to have any in stock when said OCN member goes to Fry's. I'm REALLY hoping I get one. Otherwise I'll be going Intel dual core







.


----------



## theCanadian

I promised you guys a 939 revival. Here it is. I've pulled it up as my sig rig so you can look at the hardware. Crappy pics. I'll have to get my hands on a better camera later (read: not my phone).

I also still need a legitimate CPU cooler. These stock heatsinks really dont even do well at stock with the 110w TDP of the opty's. Even with double decker fans....


----------



## rhkcommander959

i'll give it a shot, anyone know of a newer/better bios than the 7-28 one?

thanks..


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 
I promised you guys a 939 revival. Here it is. I've pulled it up as my sig rig so you can look at the hardware. Crappy pics. I'll have to get my hands on a better camera later (read: not my phone).

I also still need a legitimate CPU cooler. These stock heatsinks really dont even do well at stock with the 110w TDP of the opty's. Even with double decker fans....

The double decker fans could actually be hurting it... Try just the one that pushes the most air, as the slower one will be blocking the faster one.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


The double decker fans could actually be hurting it... Try just the one that pushes the most air, as the slower one will be blocking the faster one.


Nope, I definitely get more air. Just putting my hand there it feels like about 40% more air. Both of those fans are medium speed. The only downside is that stacked on top of each other, they are quite a bit louder they normally would be.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


I promised you guys a 939 revival. Here it is. I've pulled it up as my sig rig so you can look at the hardware. Crappy pics. I'll have to get my hands on a better camera later (read: not my phone).

I also still need a legitimate CPU cooler. These stock heatsinks really dont even do well at stock with the 110w TDP of the opty's. Even with double decker fans....


 Did you buy your opty used? Because that doesn't look like the stock one. The stock Opteron heat sink has 4 heat pipes.

It looks like this.

























Quote:



Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*


i'll give it a shot, anyone know of a newer/better bios than the 7-28 one?.


 Is there any beta BIOSes on the DFI site?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


The double decker fans could actually be hurting it... Try just the one that pushes the most air, as the slower one will be blocking the faster one.


 Exactly.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Did you buy your opty used? Because that doesn't look like the stock one. The stock Opteron heat sink has 4 heat pipes.

It looks like this.


























Is there any beta BIOSes on the DFI site?

Exactly.










"Thou shall not hotlink pictures. www.madshrimps.be"

And no, I'm not using the stock opteron heatsink, I'm using the stock normal Athlon 64 cooler. It was originally mounted on a 939 3200+.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 
"Thou shall not hotlink pictures. www.madshrimps.be"

And no, I'm not using the stock opteron heatsink, I'm using the stock normal Athlon 64 cooler. It was originally mounted on a 939 3200+.

Yeah the Athlon ones are barely adequate. I'm using a stock Athlon one on my _lapped_ 3800x2 and it's just barely enough at stock speed.

If you're in the market for a good cooler get one of these refurb Big typhoon's. They're actually very good coolers. Just don't adhere the backplate to your board with the adhesive, it's seriously a mofo to get off.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


"Thou shall not hotlink pictures. www.madshrimps.be"

And no, I'm not using the stock opteron heatsink, I'm using the stock normal Athlon 64 cooler. It was originally mounted on a 939 3200+.


If you can find a 939 Opty cooler, it would be better than the Athlon job you have now. 
I'm running a 939 Opty cooler right now on my 720 BE and temps are great (28C @ 3200MHz with 1.28v's being used as I type). It's also a versatile cooler, having used it with my AM3, AM2, 939 (Of course







) and 754 systems. 
I'd have to say it's the very best stock cooler AMD ever used with their chips to date with it's versatility and how well it works. I don't know why AMD quit including these with alot of their boxed chips but at least I do have one or two ..... Make that three around here I can use if needed. Hanging onto these for obvious reason.

These should be cheap and easy to find since alot of folks set these aside to get something better than "Stock" for their chips.


----------



## Blitz6804

Hotlinking is evil!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Hotlinking is evil!


Not for me..


----------



## playah

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


If you can find a 939 Opty cooler, it would be better than the Athlon job you have now. 
I'm running a 939 Opty cooler right now on my 720 BE and temps are great (28C @ 3200MHz with 1.28v's being used as I type). It's also a versatile cooler, having used it with my AM3, AM2, 939 (Of course







) and 754 systems. 
I'd have to say it's the very best stock cooler AMD ever used with their chips to date with it's versatility and how well it works. I don't know why AMD quit including these with alot of their boxed chips but at least I do have one or two ..... Make that three around here I can use if needed. Hanging onto these for obvious reason.

These should be cheap and easy to find since alot of folks set these aside to get something better than "Stock" for their chips.


 They were probably the best stock coolers I've ever found, stockpiled about 4 of 'em up myself, they quit including them because of cost I figure.

When I bought 2 165's new I never used even used them, they just sat in their boxes, didn't find out until a couple years later how good they were


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *playah*


They were probably the best stock coolers I've ever found, stockpiled about 4 of 'em up myself, they quit including them because of cost I figure.

When I bought 2 165's new I never used even used them, they just sat in their boxes, didn't find out until a couple years later how good they were


 They're decent, I could get about a 500MHz OC out of my 165 with relatively cool ambient temps.

I believe ny_driver lapped his, it seemed to do pretty well actually.


----------



## playah

I never ran them with dual cores, did very well on single cores


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *playah* 
I never ran them with dual cores, did very well on single cores

They're only good at cold ambient temps. I put a Vantec Tornado on mine and that helped a little more; and man, that crazy little fan kept my board below 30C.


----------



## bodunchar

Heres my amd story.
memory dividers seem to work automatically in my bios (Asus A8N SLI SE), I can only set memory frequency, not a divider. frustrating to have no control over memory frequency.
Sadly the ram is my OC limit (kingston value).
I am reaching 2.7 ghz with my Athlon 64 3000+ venice, have loosened timings on ram too. 
If I buy some top of the range ram, (eyes on OCZ EL DDR PC-3200 Dual Channel Platinum XTC), will it vastly improve my 3D performance, plus the little extra I could reach with the cpu? Had 4gb ram but fried one stick so down to 3.
Whaddya think?
I like to play Arma 2, performance is fine, but I would like a little more detail and higher res settings








Plus my temps, load, are 51 C, ambient room temp can reach 30. Can work on those.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bodunchar*


Heres my amd story.
memory dividers seem to work automatically in my bios (Asus A8N SLI SE), I can only set memory frequency, not a divider. frustrating to have no control over memory frequency.
Sadly the ram is my OC limit (kingston value).
I am reaching 2.7 ghz with my Athlon 64 3000+ venice, have loosened timings on ram too. 
If I buy some top of the range ram, (eyes on OCZ EL DDR PC-3200 Dual Channel Platinum XTC), will it vastly improve my 3D performance, plus the little extra I could reach with the cpu? Had 4gb ram but fried one stick so down to 3.
Whaddya think?
I like to play Arma 2, performance is fine, but I would like a little more detail and higher res settings








Plus my temps, load, are 51 C, ambient room temp can reach 30. Can work on those.


Honestly, I think part of your problem is running 3GB of RAM. Make it 2 matching sticks and give that a go.

Also, Memory Frequency IS your divider. If you drop your memory frequency down, that's a divider. Your RAM is NEVER going to hold you back on 939. There's ALWAYS a lower divider (frequency). It should go all the way down to DDR200, 100MHz, (or FSB / 2). That gives you up to 400MHz FSB (HTT) to play with until your RAM is at DDR400 again.


----------



## bodunchar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Honestly, I think part of your problem is running 3GB of RAM. Make it 2 matching sticks and give that a go.

Also, Memory Frequency IS your divider. If you drop your memory frequency down, that's a divider. Your RAM is NEVER going to hold you back on 939. There's ALWAYS a lower divider (frequency). It should go all the way down to DDR200, 100MHz, (or FSB / 2). That gives you up to 400MHz FSB (HTT) to play with until your RAM is at DDR400 again.


thanks for your thoughts m8


----------



## rhkcommander959

good ole abit an8 sli fatal1ty has no audio. but running good! the speakers get power just no signal..


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bodunchar*


Heres my amd story.
memory dividers seem to work automatically in my bios (Asus A8N SLI SE), I can only set memory frequency, not a divider. frustrating to have no control over memory frequency.
Sadly the ram is my OC limit (kingston value).
I am reaching 2.7 ghz with my Athlon 64 3000+ venice, have loosened timings on ram too. 
If I buy some top of the range ram, (eyes on OCZ EL DDR PC-3200 Dual Channel Platinum XTC), will it vastly improve my 3D performance, plus the little extra I could reach with the cpu? Had 4gb ram but fried one stick so down to 3.
Whaddya think?
I like to play Arma 2, performance is fine, but I would like a little more detail and higher res settings








Plus my temps, load, are 51 C, ambient room temp can reach 30. Can work on those.


 Like Pioneerisloud suggested, take that one extra stick out. It'll run faster without it. Aside from that you're using XP and running more than 2GB of RAM is totally unnecessary.

However, I think your real problem is the CPU, even though it's running at a high frequency, there's only one core.

You're running 2 GSO's; a single core 939 CPU will NEVER be able to process all of the info those cards can throw at it. You need to get a dual core, simple as that. No other effective way to raise your FPS.

Not to mention, ARMA 2 takes advantage of multiple cores.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*


good ole abit an8 sli fatal1ty has no audio. but running good! the speakers get power just no signal..


 Check to see if you get a signal from the front panel audio.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Yeah the Athlon ones are barely adequate. I'm using a stock Athlon one on my _lapped_ 3800x2 and it's just barely enough at stock speed.

If you're in the market for a good cooler get one of these refurb Big typhoon's. They're actually very good coolers. Just don't adhere the backplate to your board with the adhesive, it's seriously a mofo to get off.


Awesome! I actually already have one of those heatsinks on my main rig, Move On It v2. Not so awesome out of the box, it had very wide, deep grooves in the base. However, after lapping the base, it's a pretty good cooler. And for $17.75 shipped! I'm grabbing one right now. It's worth the hassle of not using the stock clamp. I couldn't even find any Opteron coolers for that cheap.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


Awesome! I actually already have one of those heatsinks on my main rig, Move On It v2. Not so awesome out of the box, it had very wide, deep grooves in the base. However, after lapping the base, it's a pretty good cooler. And for $17.75 shipped! I'm grabbing one right now. It's worth the hassle of not using the stock clamp. I couldn't even find any Opteron coolers for that cheap.










, thats where I got mine and I had to lap it right out the box, but I couldn't complain for the price.

Looks like their shipping got cheaper.









And they do cool very well, it was sufficient enough to cool my lapped 720 OC'd to 3.6 @ 1.496v! If I saw temps above 50C I knew that the heatsink was getting plugged up.


----------



## theCanadian

While I'm waiting for the TT Big Typhoon to arrive, I want you're guys opinion on the PSU I've got hooked up to this rig. I know Rosewill doesn't make the best PSU's, but for the money its not too bad, as they do tend to be $20 to $30 cheaper.

I know it's a little overpowered for the rig, but what I'm really wondering is if it's stable enough that it's not going to influence my OC significantly. My goal is 2.9 or better. This chip has hit 3.0 and might even have more in it according to the previous owner.

Exact PSU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817182032


----------



## pioneerisloud

I believe the RP series were one of their more decent quality units. You should be fine







.


----------



## BlackOmega

Well Rosewill is known for budget components so I would assume that it's not the greatest.

With that said, when I switched over from my Antec SP500, which actually was a sub par PSU for being an Antec, to my PCP&C 750 quad, I was able to get a better OC simply due to the fact that the PCP&C has much better voltage regulation.

But as far as yours is concerned, you wont know until you try. Give it a go and keep an eye on your voltage for fluctuation. IMO, there's only so much ripple that a motherboard can regulate.


----------



## Tator Tot

The RP600 was an inflated unit. It's not bad, but the power is inflated alot.

It's a decent 450-500w unit.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


The RP600 was an inflated unit. It's not bad, but the power is inflated alot.

It's a decent 450-500w unit.


Right, and thats all I need to power this rig. So I'm hoping for good results.


----------



## Kryton

I'm looking into getting a waterblock setup for the AM3 but you know the market hasn't been kind to these yet. 
I know there's a few out there but I think my OCZ Hydroflow may work, the one I've been using up until now. I don't have a backplate for it to use with AM3 but I think I can rig something up, even if it involves a drill being used. The holes in the faceplate of the block seems to be the correct spacing for an AM3 and need to confirm that. 
Will let you guys know if it works or not.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


I'm looking into getting a waterblock setup for the AM3 but you know the market hasn't been kind to these yet. 
I know there's a few out there but I think my OCZ Hydroflow may work, the one I've been using up until now. I don't have a backplate for it to use with AM3 but I think I can rig something up, even if it involves a drill being used. The holes in the faceplate of the block seems to be the correct spacing for an AM3 and need to confirm that. 
Will let you guys know if it works or not.


 Are you setting up a H2O loop so you can run Fermi?







j/k

You should snap some pics when all is said and done.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Are you setting up a H2O loop so you can run Fermi?







j/k

You should snap some pics when all is said and done.


Yeah ......... What you said.
















I will start looking at this tomorrow and if the spacing on the block's faceplate is right, I'll see what I can come up with.


----------



## Tator Tot

OCZ Hydroflow came with a AM2/+ Mounting, which is the same as AM3.


----------



## BlackOmega

Well fellas, I _finally_ managed to get XP installed _with_ the RAID controller. I'm so glad to be using XP again.









It's is so amazingly fast with this getup. Scored 15909 in 3dm06 (stock clocks on everything). 
And the RAID isn't all that bad, 128MB/s, not as great as some of my 939 controllers but definitely better than the AMD SB750.

I think I'll wait to re-install win7 until they finally work out all the driver bugs (nvidia) and older games.


----------



## theCanadian

Omega, do you still fold? To which rig do you refer?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 
Omega, do you still fold? To which rig do you refer?

Unfortunately I do not fold any more. The power bills keeping 2 rigs running was getting to be too much. During the winter I have no problems keeping them going as, believe it or not, it reduces my gas bill since the 2 rigs heat the whole upstairs.









But the rig I was referring to is my sig rig. I had windows 7 Ult 64 bit, but after running in to huge driver issues, not to mention it didn't play my games properly since a lot of them are DX9, I said the hell with it. There was simply too many compatibility issues, aside from that, it didn't add any more functionality than XP gives; if anything, it over complicates the same features or gives you _less_ accessibility. Thanks, but no thanks.


----------



## jakeitup

I just purchased a new Radeon 5770 to replace my 3870 so I could get better frames in Battlefield Bad Company 2

My CPU is an opty 185 
Mobo is the Abit AT8 32x
Power Supply 550W modular with plenty of amps on 12v rails

The card powers up, but the motherboard does not beep. I've read numerous posts about these cards not working on some older 939 motherboards. Then again I've also read posts where it does work on a lot of Gigabyte and Asus 939 motherboards... anyone know anything about Abit motherboards? Their company apparently took a nose dive from the motherboard scene a few years back.

Thanks!


----------



## bodunchar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Like Pioneerisloud suggested, take that one extra stick out. It'll run faster without it. Aside from that you're using XP and running more than 2GB of RAM is totally unnecessary.

However, I think your real problem is the CPU, even though it's running at a high frequency, there's only one core.

You're running 2 GSO's; a single core 939 CPU will NEVER be able to process all of the info those cards can throw at it. You need to get a dual core, simple as that. No other effective way to raise your FPS.

Not to mention, ARMA 2 takes advantage of multiple cores.


Wow very interesting cheers I shall give it a go laterrrrrrs!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jakeitup*


I just purchased a new Radeon 5770 to replace my 3870 so I could get better frames in Battlefield Bad Company 2

My CPU is an opty 185 
Mobo is the Abit AT8 32x
Power Supply 550W modular with plenty of amps on 12v rails

The card powers up, but the motherboard does not beep. I've read numerous posts about these cards not working on some older 939 motherboards. Then again I've also read posts where it does work on a lot of Gigabyte and Asus 939 motherboards... anyone know anything about Abit motherboards? Their company apparently took a nose dive from the motherboard scene a few years back.

Thanks!


See if you can find an updated BIOS for your board, I've heard that helps on some board.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bodunchar*


Wow very interesting cheers I shall give it a go laterrrrrrs!


Good Luck.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hows that RMA coming along Kryton?

Hi all...


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hows that RMA coming along Kryton?

Hi all...


Haven't heard back from them yet but it was accepted and the sticks were sent off last week. 
I'm hoping it all goes well and I get a new set in before too long.

Oh yeah, got the batch #'s for my 555 BE and it looks to be a really early chip in the line, maybe that's why it unlocked since it's been suggested some quads had cores disabled to meet the expected demand for these at first. Looks to me like it came from close to the center of the wafer and the numbers/digits are as follows: 
HDZ555WFK2DGM
CACAC AC 1004BPMW
9C61642A00924

Wadda ya think?


----------



## godofdeath

anyone know any good push/pull 939 heatsinks that isn't HUGE


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *godofdeath* 
anyone know any good push/pull 939 heatsinks that isn't HUGE

The Xigmatek S1283 or Darkknight isn't all that huge. It is tall but it should fit in a mid ATX case, no problem.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
The Xigmatek S1283 or Darkknight isn't all that huge. It is tall but it should fit in a mid ATX case, no problem.

i was thinking of the TRUE but will that work?


----------



## godofdeath

Nvm the tru won't work as it doesn't face the back when you mount it does the dark night do that?


----------



## Freakn

the Zippy's need an adapter normally to face front to back.

Mine actually seemed to work better parrallel with the GPU but I had 2 12cm exhaust above and when i rotated and changed to MX-3 it it only dropped 2 deg but could also be a bad seat.

Yet to reseat

P.S. you can find a cross like bracket to adapt non AMD coolers to sit in the prefered direction


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Freakn*


the Zippy's need an adapter normally to face front to back.

Mine actually seemed to work better parrallel with the GPU but I had 2 12cm exhaust above and when i rotated and changed to MX-3 it it only dropped 2 deg but could also be a bad seat.

Yet to reseat

P.S. you can find a cross like bracket to adapt non AMD coolers to sit in the prefered direction


what's a zippy?
I don't know if the true has a adapter i'll go check again, it doesn't look too HUGE from reviews lol


----------



## jakeitup

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
See if you can find an updated BIOS for your board, I've heard that helps on some board.

Good Luck.









Unfortunately, my motherboard manufacturer, Abit, pretty much went under. I already have the latest motherboard for this board from 2006...

are there any bios options i can maybe try to get it to work?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


Nvm the tru won't work as it doesn't face the back when you mount it does the dark night do that?


 It depends on the board. On my CFX3200DR it faces front to back; on my DFI Ultra-D's it faces top to bottom.

You could also get one of these refurbished Big Typhoon. It might need to be lapped right out of the box, but at that price, I think it's worth it. And the Big Typhoon isn't as tall as the Xigmatek, and it has a better retention mechanism.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jakeitup*


Unfortunately, my motherboard manufacturer, Abit, pretty much went under. I already have the latest motherboard for this board from 2006...

are there any bios options i can maybe try to get it to work?


 Yeah it's unfortunate that Abit went under. At least in the enthusiast market.

I don't know if there's anything that you can really do to make it work. Quite honestly, I'm baffled as to why it doesn't work.

Contact the video cards manufacturer, because most GPU makers claim that their cards are backwards compatible. Meaning that they should work on a PCIe 1.0 slot no problem. See what they have to say.


----------



## godofdeath

well if i got the true, the retention bracket would could where the screws are for the stock cooler hook thing, so then it would end up facing the top and bottom, plus it might block some of the ram


----------



## BlackOmega

Hey blitz check this out!


----------



## ny_driver

Well I did it....I went and bought a 2nd HD4890. I found a deal I couldn't pass up. My new system is really taking shape. I can't wait to get some insane new racing game that I couldn't play before







http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWNX:IT
EDIT: now I really need a new PSU.


----------



## BlackOmega

Cool! And you got an XFX with the good warranty!









When you get the cards, you should test each one individually, and then put the faster card in the slot furthest from the CPU.


----------



## ny_driver

Farthest slot huh? Why is that?

Now I really have to put a new PSU at the top of my list. Are you sure that this 750 will be enough power because 850 and 950 are not that much more? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817139006

I keep looking and I think I'll have to go with the 950 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817139013


----------



## Blitz6804

Because the Crossfire Xpress 3200 boards are not typical; that is, the primary PCIe slot is the lower one rather than the upper one. ATi suggests a minimum power supply of 600 W with four 6-pin connectors for HD 4890 Crossfire. If you want to overclock, go for a 650-700 W PSU. I do not think you could go wrong with that 750 W Corsair; the 950 W is overkill even if you wanted to push a pair of HD 5970s.


----------



## ny_driver

OK. Maybe I will just go with the 750 then, BO said the same thing.








Each of the cards has 1 x 6 pin and 1 x 8 pin, and the 750tx has 4 x 6+2 so it would work perfectly and pretty cheap, too.
So you guys are saying the 750tx is absolutely plenty of power for an OC'd Opty, and 2 OC'd HD4890s, and 5-6 fans, and my 2 little blue lights?









EDIT: what if I decide to get the swiftech H2O-220....will I have enough power for that with the 750tx?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


OK. Maybe I will just go with the 750 then, BO said the same thing.








Each of the cards has 1 x 6 pin and 1 x 8 pin, and the 750tx has 4 x 6+2 so it would work perfectly and pretty cheap, too.
So you guys are saying the 750tx is absolutely plenty of power for an OC'd Opty, and 2 OC'd HD4890s, and 5-6 fans, and my 2 little blue lights?









EDIT: what if I decide to get the swiftech H2O-220....will I have enough power for that with the 750tx?


 Well if you're planning for watercooling, the 950 wouldn't be that bad of an idea. Better to have the ability to run that much wattage if needed.

Other than a watercooling loop, the 750 would be more than sufficient to run 2 4890's, 2 cathodes, a bunch of fans, 4 HDD's, and a quad core. So it'll be no problem to run an opty.

And if the $30 is no big deal, then hell get the 950, and if you should so choose to sell it later on, you'll most likely get your money back.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
EDIT: what if I decide to get the swiftech H2O-220....will I have enough power for that with the 750tx?

Yeah, most fans stay under 12watts, and the highest 12v pump is 18watts.

Watercooling doesn't add that much to power usage.


----------



## Blitz6804

Hey Tator Tot, what program should I use to clone my 160 GB drive onto my new 500 GB drive? HDClone free edition copied it, but Windows will not boot at all from the cloned drive.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Hey Tator Tot, what program should I use to clone my 160 GB drive onto my new 500 GB drive? HDClone free edition copied it, but Windows will not boot at all from the cloned drive.


I use CloneZilla 

I've used it for XP Cloning in the past and it works fine almost every day.


----------



## Blitz6804

Any programs I can run from Windows rather than a boot media? Neither the drive that is to be cloned nor the drive I am cloning to is my system drive.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Any programs I can run from Windows rather than a boot media? Neither the drive that is to be cloned nor the drive I am cloning to is my system drive.


I'm not sure of any that'll be able to copy over everything and allow you to boot the drive.

I know a few programs that'll copy media drives just fine. But not Windows installs.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Yeah, most fans stay under 12watts, and the highest 12v pump is 18watts.

Watercooling doesn't add that much to power usage.


 Tator, but wouldn't that depend on how extensive the WC loop is? i.e. if you have a larger loop and lets say more than 1 or 2 pumps. Or one larger pump.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Tator, but wouldn't that depend on how extensive the WC loop is? i.e. if you have a larger loop and lets say more than 1 or 2 pumps. Or one larger pump.

Not really. Beyond two pumps you can actually hurt your loop because you end up adding in to much heat from the pumps without getting any benefit from the extra flow.

Also, highest 12v pumps are 18watts. You can get Ikari 24v pumps and 48v pumps, but the pumps most people are going to look at, MCP 355, or MCP 655 ( D5)

So at most, you're looking at 38w from your pumps. And 8 x 12 = 96w. But your average water cooling fans are less.

Yate Loon High Speeds are 6w each. That drops it to 38w + 48w = 86w total for the water cooling. And that's for your over the top setup which you would be using with probably two GPU's and a CPU.


----------



## Kryton

I can vouch for the MCP 655 pumps. 
You guys have seen what I can do with these and I like the fact it's a variable pump rather than a simple, straight flowrate pump. Lets me "Tune" my system on what it needs to operate with max cooling efficiency.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Because the Crossfire Xpress 3200 boards are not typical; that is, the primary PCIe slot is the lower one rather than the upper one. ATi suggests a minimum power supply of 600 W with four 6-pin connectors for HD 4890 Crossfire. If you want to overclock, go for a 650-700 W PSU. I do not think you could go wrong with that 750 W Corsair; the 950 W is overkill even if you wanted to push a pair of HD 5970s.


The Xpress 200, which is the only other 939 crossfire chipset I am aware of was also the same way, primary slot farthest from the CPU. I have a board that uses. Two actually. One is crossfire and the other is not.


----------



## Blitz6804

Well Tator, that one worked. I hosed my hard drive for a bit (would not boot, or if it did, it would BSOD immediately) but after some tinkering I got it fixed and cloned. I increased my WEI from a 4.9 (160 GB 5400 RPM) to a 5.9 (500 GB 7200 RPM).


----------



## N2Gaming

w9w all either my post never got added or my post was removed again for unforseen reasons. In any case if the dude wants to find out about the Abit mobo not POST'n w/the Newer ATI card he can just PM me so I don't have to go through the spill all over again and again and again.....







Hate it when my posts don't show as they should


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


Well Tator, that one worked. I hosed my hard drive for a bit (would not boot, or if it did, it would BSOD immediately) but after some tinkering I got it fixed and cloned. I increased my WEI from a 4.9 (160 GB 5400 RPM) to a 5.9 (500 GB 7200 RPM).


Good to hear man


----------



## jakeitup

so I just "upgraded" my graphics from a 3870 to a 4890 and see little, if any improvement at all. Is that to be expected on an old 939 system?

opty 185 2.6ghz
Abit AT8 32x motherboard
4gigs ddr 400
radeon 4890

i upgraded my graphics card to play bad company 2 at a higher resolution than 1280x800 but it still lags even at that resolution with the 4890... anyone else have similar experiences with upgrading to "newer" graphics cards on older 939 systems?

also on another note, i read somewhere that the bottom PCIe lane furthest from the top is actually the 1st PCIe slot. does it matter that i've been using the 2nd slot ever since i've owned this board?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jakeitup* 
so I just "upgraded" my graphics from a 3870 to a 4890 and see little, if any improvement at all. Is that to be expected on an old 939 system?

opty 185 2.6ghz
Abit AT8 32x motherboard
4gigs ddr 400
radeon 4890

i upgraded my graphics card to play bad company 2 at a higher resolution than 1280x800 but it still lags even at that resolution with the 4890... anyone else have similar experiences with upgrading to "newer" graphics cards on older 939 systems?

also on another note, i read somewhere that the bottom PCIe lane furthest from the top is actually the 1st PCIe slot. does it matter that i've been using the 2nd slot ever since i've owned this board?

On that particular motherboard, no it doesn't matter as both PCIe slots are 16x. And it could just be that your CPU is holding you back. Battlefield Bad Company 2 is one of those games where you pretty much need a quad to turn your settings up.


----------



## jakeitup

thanks, guess the 4890 goes back to microcenter tomorrow!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jakeitup* 
thanks, guess the 4890 goes back to microcenter tomorrow!

Might want to try overclocking your Opteron a little. My Opteron 165 at 3.0GHz could handle just about any game out there, with the exception of GTA IV. So you could always try to overclock that Opty up to 2.9-3.0GHz or so, and see if that helps. A 2.6GHz dual core is honestly not much these days, especially a K8.


----------



## pbasil1

Hey guys, this still seems to be a pretty active thread... So im just throwing it out there, im in need of a new s939 mobo. I would really like an Nforce4 sli board. but ill take what still out there i guess...

I just got ripped off by another member on here, so now im desperate for a new board


----------



## jakeitup

yeah, i know what you mean. I've been hanging onto this 939 build since 2005-2006. I really was hoping sticking in a newer graphics card could squeeze more life out of this system for at least another year







... oh well


----------



## jakeitup

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pbasil1* 
Hey guys, this still seems to be a pretty active thread... So im just throwing it out there, im in need of a new s939 mobo. I would really like an Nforce4 sli board. but ill take what still out there i guess...

I just got ripped off by another member on here, so now im desperate for a new board









want to buy mine?







its not an nforce 4 sli board though


----------



## Choggs396

I know it's been a long time coming (posted in this thread a good while back), but I'm close to finishing my Opty 165 + X1800XT rig. I got delayed for a while.... I'll let you all know when it's finished.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Choggs396* 
I know it's been a long time coming (posted in this thread a good while back), but I'm close to finishing my Opty 165 + X1800XT rig. I got delayed for a while.... I'll let you all know when it's finished.









Sweet! Looking forward to the benches and pics!


----------



## Menace

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Choggs396* 
I know it's been a long time coming (posted in this thread a good while back), but I'm close to finishing my Opty 165 + X1800XT rig. I got delayed for a while.... I'll let you all know when it's finished.









Good to hear, keep us posted. I recently retired my S939 rig (x2 3800+ @ 2.4Ghz). I gave it to my parents to replace their P4 machine.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pbasil1* 
Hey guys, this still seems to be a pretty active thread... So im just throwing it out there, im in need of a new s939 mobo. I would really like an Nforce4 sli board. but ill take what still out there i guess...

I just got ripped off by another member on here, so now im desperate for a new board









what kind of money are you willing to spend on a mobo for socket 939?


----------



## redhat_ownage

ultra D, simple mod to enable sli
its a ncix open box so it will take ~2 weeks to get to you (ships from canada)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jakeitup* 
want to buy mine?







its not an nforce 4 sli board though

Did you ever try running your system with only 2 GB ram with timings @ x-x-x-x-1T. 2T is not good with socket 939, @ 2T your memory is running slower than it could and therefore you get lower FPS(in GTR2 anyways with my particular system).
I have a 180 and wanted to run 4 GB ram, and although Windows is actually a tad bit better with 4, I get better FPS with 2 sticks @ 1T. I doubt that really helps the video card situation, but it might get you a couple FPS.
Just my amateur 2 cents. Good luck.


----------



## jakeitup

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
Did you ever try running your system with only 2 GB ram with timings @ x-x-x-x-1T. 2T is not good with socket 939, @ 2T your memory is running slower than it could and therefore you get lower FPS(in GTR2 anyways with my particular system).
I have a 180 and wanted to run 4 GB ram, and although Windows is actually a tad bit better with 4, I get better FPS with 2 sticks @ 1T. I doubt that really helps the video card situation, but it might get you a couple FPS.
Just my amateur 2 cents. Good luck.









interesting... i'll try that out, thanks


----------



## godofdeath

hm new case and now no sound coming out.
use cooler master 690

i've read this
http://forums.techpowerup.com/showthread.php?t=9003

and have no clue what to jump or what I need to use to jump

here's my manual
http://dlsvr04.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/...li_premium.pdf
pg 53 and 55 is where audio stuff is.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pbasil1*


I just got ripped off by another member on here ....










Don't get me started on that one.

Been there, was done like that too ....


----------



## Blitz6804

jakeitup: An HD 4890 is a big upgrade from an HD 3870. It needs to be asked though, do you have the 512 MB or the 1024 MB version? The latter should be more than capable to handle higher resolutions with high levels of Anti-Aliasing.

All: Please remember, this is not the for sale section.


----------



## ny_driver

A thought just crossed my mind while I was thinking about video cards and performance. I said to myself "how come we never see any benchmark results on hardware running racing games?" I'm probably not looking in the right places, or it's because those are not the most demanding games.







hmmmmmm, must be the former.


----------



## Blitz6804

A little of both I think. Aside of DiRT2, I cannot think of any new mainstream racing games for PC. Most racers these days are console exclusives or ports; not like the good old days when things came new to the PC, and might get ported to the console.


----------



## theCanadian

Grid was pretty good when it came out. I think really good racing games just come out more slowly than other games, so it's easier to just use those games for your bechmark.

There's actually one or two racing games on the horizon, but I forget what they are.


----------



## ny_driver

I'm going to need to get some newer more graphically intense race games to try to put my system to the test, like at least 1 of the NFS titles not sure which yet I'll have to try out the different demos. Dirt2 sounds good.
Wow...is that all your 165 will do(2255)? I have a pretty nice LCB9E 180 I'm trying to sell because it won't run 3GHz stable for me. I start having to add too much voltage @ ~2.8GHz. I just bought 2 CCBBE 180's to try in my new system.







 PM me if you are interested. I'll cut you a good deal. Might even work out a trade if you have anything I need.

EDIT:







on the Big Typhoon on the way, I have one on the way too($19.55 shipped).
reEDIT: duhhh....that is probably why you only have your cpu @ 2255 right now.


----------



## jakeitup

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blitz6804* 
jakeitup: An HD 4890 is a big upgrade from an HD 3870. It needs to be asked though, do you have the 512 MB or the 1024 MB version? The latter should be more than capable to handle higher resolutions with high levels of Anti-Aliasing.

All: Please remember, this is not the for sale section.

It's the 1gigabyte version. Bad Company 2 still lags even at 1440, 1600, and 1920 resolutions with all low settings, forced direct x 9, and renderaheadlimit set to 0

And I was just joking about selling my motherboard.







I love this thing too much.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yea, the Abit AT8-32x is a quite capable board; my Toledo did not get a full workout until I used it. I seriously think there is something wrong there, you should not be lagging at 1440 Dx9 lowspec. Have you tried uninstalling and reinstalling Bad Company 2? Have you tried using compatibility wizard to disable Aero (or changing your theme to Aero basic)? Have you checked your background processes to be sure that Bad Company 2 is able to use the CPU cycles it needs?


----------



## ny_driver

Are there any crossfire 939 motherboards out there that would be close to comparable to the CFX3200-DR only don't have the ULI issue where the board locks up and needs hard reset once it gets warmed up when using SATA drives? 
Thanks for the input brotherrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrs .


----------



## Blitz6804

The other two boards that use that chip are the Abit AT8-32X and the Asus A8R32. The former is a decent board (as I can attest to) but Abit is defunct, so good luck getting support if it breaks. I believe that Pioneerisloud has used the latter, but I have not.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I'm going to need to get some newer more graphically intense race games to try to put my system to the test, like at least 1 of the NFS titles not sure which yet I'll have to try out the different demos. Dirt2 sounds good. 
Wow...is that all your 165 will do(2255)? I have a pretty nice LCB9E 180 I'm trying to sell because it won't run 3GHz stable for me. I start having to add too much voltage @ ~2.8GHz. I just bought 2 CCBBE 180's to try in my new system.







PM me if you are interested. I'll cut you a good deal. Might even work out a trade if you have anything I need.

EDIT:







on the Big Typhoon on the way, I have one on the way too($19.55 shipped).
reEDIT: duhhh....that is probably why you only have your cpu @ 2255 right now.










Yessir that's why it's not clocked very high. Are Opty 180's binned better than 165s? I usually don't see any Opterons clocked much above 3.1Ghz so why would you drop the extra money?


----------



## Blitz6804

If you do not have a very competent board (read: cannot maintain an HTT greater than at least 240 MHz) the higher multiplier makes all the difference. Sure, if you have a motherboard that can push 370 MHz, you can make an Opteron 165 scream at its limits, but an Opteron 180 would only need 278 MHz to do the same speed.


----------



## theCanadian

Yeah, my PURE is capable of 350 Mhz, maybe higher.


----------



## godofdeath

gonna lap my cpu if xigmatek ever releases their mount thing n if i get a new heatsink yay lol


----------



## ny_driver

What is a good place to look for used motherboards besides ebay or the forums. Are there any online retailers you could point me to?


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


What is a good place to look for used motherboards besides ebay or the forums. Are there any online retailers you could point me to?


for 939?
i remember there was a place that sold a8n-sli for like 70


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


for 939?
i remember there was a place that sold a8n-sli for like 70


well...get to rememberin' then


----------



## godofdeath

think its partstore, found the place through google shopping so yea, don't know how to navigate them, you could try calling them


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


well...get to rememberin' then










http://newyork.craigslist.org/brk/sys/1673994227.html

full setup off craigslist if still available


----------



## ny_driver

nice find! I called the guy and someone is looking at it tomorrow. He's going to call me if it's still available.


----------



## godofdeath

are there any retention mounts like THIS but already being sold?

need new heatsink or at least a way to hold it down and i can't find anything


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Racing games/sims don't tend to be all that stressful on a system for some reason. I'm not sure why this is, to be honest, given all the physics calculations that need to be made to properly simulate vehicle dynamics, aerodynamic effects, weather and lighting effects, gravitational and frictional factors, opposing drivers' AI, etc.

Maybe racing sims are just far better coded than most other games?









I'm aware of two hotly-awaited racing titles: Codemasters is releasing its first Formula 1 sim (I think it will be called F1 2010 - BORING title), and ISI is preparing to release rFactor 2. Between these two, I'm so amped about rFactor 2. I'm slightly worried that Codemasters' effort will be garbage, if only because I like my racing sims to be more sim than arcade racer. If GRID is anything to go by, Codemasters' F1 game will be pretty but stupid to play (that is, if you're a snob like me







).


----------



## Blitz6804

I have to say, DiRT 2 (the demo at least, I do not own the full game) pushes my system pretty hard. If I max out the in-game settings, I get an average in the 90s, a minimum near 70 FPS. GRiD is less taxing in that with the same settings, I get around 120 average, 90 FPS min. Eventually I will try both with 4x AA just so I can compare apples to apples, since all other games, even Crysis, run at 4x AA on my rig.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
nice find! I called the guy and someone is looking at it tomorrow. He's going to call me if it's still available.

they the guy still have it?


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


they the guy still have it?


Not sure and now I don't care. HAHA.....I found an ASUS A8R32-MVP deluxe for $45 shipped from a guy @ TPU. I guess that settles it.(EDIT: for now)


----------



## Choggs396

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Sweet! Looking forward to the benches and pics!


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Menace* 
Good to hear, keep us posted. I recently retired my S939 rig (x2 3800+ @ 2.4Ghz). I gave it to my parents to replace their P4 machine.

Will do. I'm actually building this rig as my "backup" system, as I sold my older Athlon XP rig to a friend. I just ordered a few remaining parts and will be setting it up shortly. I had planned on doing it a while ago but got sidetracked with school and work and the whatnot (including laziness). I will definitely be overclocking it to the max and will provide benchmarks. Thank you for your interest. Socket 939 is legendary and I'm sure I'll have fun with this rig. It'll probably even play a lot of newer games at decent settings.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Choggs396* 
Socket 939 is legendary.

I want to sig this.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

ny_d, hope it works for ya.









I've long been curious about that motherboard as well. I never had a chance to play with one. Please share your experiences with it here.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
ny_d, hope it works for ya.









I've long been curious about that motherboard as well. I never had a chance to play with one. Please share your experiences with it here.









You can count on it brother.







I'm pretty pumped about the deal I got, now I might splurge and get the Corsair 950tx instead of the 750tx.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
Not sure and now I don't care. HAHA.....I found an ASUS A8R32-MVP deluxe for $45 shipped from a guy @ TPU. I guess that settles it.









NICE FIND!


----------



## jakeitup

anyone know of any CPU coolers that are both compatible for both 939 and lga 1366? haha.

the reason i ask is because I want to finally overclock my opty 185 and try to get 3ghz before i upgrade to an i7 board sometime this fall/winter.

I was thinking about the Corsair H50 but I don't think I can find a bracket that makes it compatible with socket 939


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jakeitup*


anyone know of any CPU coolers that are both compatible for both 939 and lga 1366? haha.

the reason i ask is because I want to finally overclock my opty 185 and try to get 3ghz before i upgrade to an i7 board sometime this fall/winter.

I was thinking about the Corsair H50 but I don't think I can find a bracket that makes it compatible with socket 939










IFX14 + 939 Bolt kit


----------



## jakeitup

that thing i massssive. is that what you use?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jakeitup*


that thing i massssive. is that what you use?


I have one, and I used it on my A8N32-SLi DLX & Opty 185 for a 3.0Ghz overclock.

I've used it on a few other setups as well, but it's a top tier air cooler. Order of coolers go's like this.

Noctua D14
IFX-14/Cogage Arrow
Megahalems 
TRUE Rev A
TRUE Rev B & C / Armageddon
Xigmatek Thor's Hammer


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Choggs396* 
Will do. I'm actually building this rig as my "backup" system, as I sold my older Athlon XP rig to a friend. I just ordered a few remaining parts and will be setting it up shortly. I had planned on doing it a while ago but got sidetracked with school and work and the whatnot (including laziness). I will definitely be overclocking it to the max and will provide benchmarks. Thank you for your interest. Socket 939 is legendary and I'm sure I'll have fun with this rig. It'll probably even play a lot of newer games at decent settings.









Yes it will play more games and stuff alot of people give it credit for but of course a good GPU helps too.









Keep us posted on your progress and I'm also sure once it's running you'll love it too.


----------



## ny_driver

LOL......I almost bought this on Sunday http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

So glad I held off because Monday I found one for $45 shipped from someone with 100% positive HEAT @ tpu.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jakeitup*


anyone know of any CPU coolers that are both compatible for both 939 and lga 1366? haha.

the reason i ask is because I want to finally overclock my opty 185 and try to get 3ghz before i upgrade to an i7 board sometime this fall/winter.

I was thinking about the Corsair H50 but I don't think I can find a bracket that makes it compatible with socket 939










 The Xigmatek Darkknight is directly compatible with both sockets. I used my Xiggy on one of my folding rigs for a while which was a 939, and then when I realized that the bracket for my Big Typhoon wasn't compatible with my i7, I quickly swapped my Xiggy DK over.

Really easy install on the 939 as it uses the stock bracket. And the retention mechanism works very well.


----------



## ny_driver

Well, I got my new cpus.....2 x CCBBE Opty 180 both are CCBBE 0615EPMW and the serial#s are like 70 apart. And after testing them on the Abit AV8 I managed to get one to pass s&m @ 2.86GHz......I was trying for 2.9, but the FPU kept crapping out on core#1.......I tried adding voltage several times and no go, so @ 2.86 it passes with max temps of 44/45c. Idle temps are 20/15c. I'm pretty happy with that. Not quite 3GHz but nice and cool and close enough for me. This Opteron cooler with the Vantec Tornado on it is plenty. 
It never broke 50c when trying to get 2.9







, but FPU kept failing.









The other cpu passed s&m @ 2.7GHz with no voltage adjustment, but when I tried for 2.8 I had to add a lot of voltage and it just wasn't very cooperative. I even got the BSOD a couple of times. Also had a pretty big temperature gap on this one(a good 10c idle and load), but it actually ran a couple degrees cooler than the better of the two cpus I got.

I have to go pick up 1 of my 4890s and test it out tonight, if I can get one of the tyan tomkats to work. I'll keep you guys updated on my building and testing of this awesome "new" rig. I'm ordering the Corsair CMPSU 850tx tonight.









EDIT: running 2.86GHz @ 1.52v(meter)...I can't believe how cool it is, but I think I will try to see if I can get away with less voltage just the same.


----------



## Blitz6804

I would try attaching a probe to the side of the IHS. I am starting to think you might have a faulty temperature sensor unless your windows are open.


----------



## Kevlo

Ya see i dont have any CPU validator things but i have several ones that i did get overclocked

1) Opteron 180 @ 2.86
2) Athlon 64 x2 4200 @ 2.6
3) Athlon 64 x2 3800 @ 2.5
3) Athlon 64 3800 @ 2.8

im sure there were others but those were the ones i had the most luck with, (my dad gave me his x2 3800 when he upgraded to a PII 920 and then the others (apart from the single core) i found on craigslist.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hi all,

For all those who did not know I was in the middle of a forced move. Fortunately for me I was able to find a home 1 street down.







This made my move much much easier. In any case I just got my interwebz back online and will have to take some time here in the next few days to reread the last few hundred posts or so to see what I missed out on.


----------



## ny_driver

My windows are open and it's about 20c ambient(EDIT: it's actually a few degrees cooler than 20c in here). Temperature sensor on the mobo you mean? I thought they were in the chip. Right now cpu temp is 23c and the cores are 20/15c. What makes you think that the sensors are messed up...because the cores are lower than ambient and FPU kept failing even at low temperatures? I see your logic I guess, but it's the same mobo that was reading the LCB9E as very hot. How do you figure that in?

EDIT:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Hi all,

For all those who did not know I was in the middle of a forced move. Fortunately for me I was able to find a home 1 street down.







This made my move much much easier. In any case I just got my interwebz back online and will have to take some time here in the next few days to reread the last few hundred posts or so to see what I missed out on.


congrats on the nearby find, and welcome back N2.


----------



## Blitz6804

Motherboards estimate temperatures; simple as that. To fix, you would affix a thermal probe to the side of the IHS. This will be a few degrees cooler than the actual core, but it will be more accurate than what Windows reports. Make sure you do not stick the probe between the IHS and the heat sink; that is a good way to kill a CPU.

To try to demonstrate, I give you crummy ASCII art:

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX <= heatsink
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
[----------------------] <= IHS; probe gets taped to the side of this
============== <= CPU PCB


----------



## ny_driver

When I get a chance I will try the temp sensor probe to see what it says. Are the core temperature sensors within the cpu or are they also estimated by the motherboard?


----------



## Blitz6804

Unless I am mistaken, the temperature sensor is a type of circuit which measures a potential difference which then must be calculated to be a temperature based on various factors. The voltage would be constant for your CPU, but the motherboard's interpretation of the voltage can vary from board to board which is why different boards can report different temperatures for the same processor and cooler.

When you have a board miscommunication, you end up with something like what happened with the newer Brisbane cores, most of which showed 5-50 degrees sub ambient until BIOSes were released with the correct calculations.


----------



## ny_driver

So it's weird that my same board(ABIT AV8) was reading the LCB9E too hot with this Opty heatpipe cooler, but these 2 CCBBE chips run very comfortably cool. I did read some very good reviews of this cooler, but only with a stock fan. Mine has the Vantec Tornado on it, so it's probably working pretty well. That thing blows like a tornado in my pc case


----------



## Kryton

Nothing wrong with a good CCBBE chip and they are decent to good OC'ers. Have two of those, both 4000+ San Diego chips that can hit 3.1 on air, no prob. I can't speak for the Opty chips with your date and stepping but that's been my experience with these.

As for temp issues with a LCB9E, during the time that the LCB9E chips came out, many Opty chips and others with this stepping simply ran hot. Many folks had to RMA their chips because of this and failure rates were high within a certain date range. I had a LCB9E 4000+ that ran so hot, the Opty cooler I had on it would barely keep it within a safe temp range using a mild OC and overvolt.

My 165 also had problems running warm but after popping the top, this problem went away and that's how many of these were done to fix the problem. I did get lucky with my other LCB9E chips since those run cool and no probs there. I think it was due to the process being used at the time not letting the lid make good contact with the core and of course temps suffered. My LCB9E 4000+ chip was OK before I delidded it along with my 175 and 180 Opty chips.


----------



## ny_driver

I got all the hardware built and I reformatted my 80 gig IDE drive, then went to install XP. But after it loads the setup files and checks the system it says "press any key to reboot now or system will reboot in 15 seconds then setup will continue", what happens is the system reboots and says "booting from cd..........error loading operating system". 
And that's where I stand with that.

Any ideas? Anyone had this happen or heard of it. Thanks.


----------



## Blitz6804

Change the boot order to load from the hard drive first.


----------



## ny_driver

Should it load from the HD at that point? I'll try it.








EDIT: didn't work blitz. Maybe I should have been clearer but I couldn't remember.







After it copies 100% of the files to the windows installation folders, it then prompts me to reboot or it will for me. You probably knew what I meant anyways.

I just tried the whole process again too and got the exact same result. I don't know what to do. I'm using an IDE drive but that should make no difference. I could try my sata, but I'd have to clean it off sooner than I had planned on.


----------



## Blitz6804

Do you have the optical drive and the hard drive on different PATA cables?


----------



## ny_driver

yes, EDIT:I read basically the whole manual today. And I really found nothing very helpful.

reEDIT: figured it out.........bad HD as I suspected. I installed a different HD and it just so happens it was formatted and fully updated to SP3 already.
Amazing if you ask me that it just booted right up on the Tomkat when I installed everything on a different board,a Neo2 I think.
Time to install the 4890


----------



## ny_driver

The first 4890 seems to not work properly. I got the system going using the onboard graphics, then when I installed the 4890 and turned the computer back on all I get is wide vertical lines all the way across the screen. The card has 1 x 8pin and 1 x 6pin, but the person I got it from said it works with 2 x 6pin.
Do you think it sounds like it may not be getting enough power or did I buy a toasted card?


----------



## Blitz6804

It is possible you have the 6-pin in the wrong holes. Double check the key-ing. If it is like the 2900 (I think) it will work with 6+6, but to overclock, you need 6+8. Alternatively, it might not be able to be used with 6+6 and he just lied to you. Most cards that need an 8 come with a 2-molex-to-6+2-PCIe adapter, I would try that.


----------



## ny_driver

I just took the 2 grounds from a 4 pin molex and cut the appropriate 2 pins out of the center of an old PSU 20pin deal and attached them, then put those 2 extra grounds in the 2 extra holes and voila!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Nothing wrong with a good CCBBE chip and they are decent to good OC'ers. Have two of those, both 4000+ San Diego chips that can hit 3.1 on air, no prob. I can't speak for the Opty chips with your date and stepping but that's been my experience with these.

As for temp issues with a LCB9E, during the time that the LCB9E chips came out, many Opty chips and others with this stepping simply ran hot. Many folks had to RMA their chips because of this and failure rates were high within a certain date range. I had a LCB9E 4000+ that ran so hot, the Opty cooler I had on it would barely keep it within a safe temp range using a mild OC and overvolt.

My 165 also had problems running warm but after popping the top, this problem went away and that's how many of these were done to fix the problem. I did get lucky with my other LCB9E chips since those run cool and no probs there. I think it was due to the process being used at the time not letting the lid make good contact with the core and of course temps suffered. My LCB9E 4000+ chip was OK before I delidded it along with my 175 and 180 Opty chips.


 I don't know why he's having issues with it quite honestly (it's my old opty 180). The last time I ran it, I had no issues (heat or otherwise) running it @ 2.9 @ 1.45v (prime stable). Even the FPU test didn't have any issues and never got the CPU over 63C with my Xiggy DK.

I'm starting to wonder if lapping might actually damage stuff inside. As in the constant friction might actually be creating very small static discharges from the IHS to the transistors/PCB.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I just took the 2 grounds from a 4 pin molex and cut the appropriate 2 pins out of the center of an old PSU 20pin deal and attached them, then put those 2 extra grounds in the 2 extra holes and voila!


 Looks like an 8 pin plug is necessary.....although, doesn't your Corsair 850 have 6+2 pins PCIe plugs???

A little OT from me though for you Grid players out there. My lamest accident yet.







Totaled out @ 4mph


----------



## Kvjavs

Would an Invoice work? It's been a long time since I gave my 939 to my cousin, but I owned one.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
A little OT from me though for you Grid players out there. My lamest accident yet.







Totaled out @ 4mph








[URL=http://www.overclock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=150231&d=1271023112[img]http://www.overclock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=150231&d=1271023112[img[/URL]]
[/TD]
[/TR][/TABLE]
I see the problem. Your spoiler is way too big!


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I don't know why he's having issues with it quite honestly (it's my old opty 180). The last time I ran it, I had no issues (heat or otherwise) running it @ 2.9 @ 1.45v (prime stable). Even the FPU test didn't have any issues and never got the CPU over 63C with my Xiggy DK.

I'm starting to wonder if lapping might actually damage stuff inside. As in the constant friction might actually be creating very small static discharges from the IHS to the transistors/PCB.

Looks like an 8 pin plug is necessary.....although, doesn't your Corsair 850 have 6+2 pins PCIe plugs???


I was going to sell it, but now I'm thinking about de-lidding it and reapplying TIM and see if it helps, but not at the top of my list right now as I have other cpu's. Mostly just for fun.
My Corsair 850 has 4 x 6+2 I think. So next week I'll be able to put it all together hopefully and everything will work like it's supposed to. The sapphire card does have me slightly worried though. Although I scanned for artifacts for 30 minutes or so earlier with none, I have seen some strange things like missing textures(wheels and stuff) one race, and I have had a couple times where at the start of the race a couple of the cars looked like bulky jagged blobs or things just weren't right(I restarted and they were gone).

I'm not sure what to think.







drivers maybe, or just the fact that it was a throw together build. I just grabbed an IDE drive and stuck it in there and it already had xp on it and it worked, so I threw the 4890 in and loaded the catalyst whatever came with it(just changed to 10.3). I'm thinking maybe it will work better when hooked up to a proper PSU and motherboard and with a clean install of everything too.

Any suggestions?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
I see the problem. Your spoiler is way too big!









No wonder I crashed I couldn't tell where I was going.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
I was going to sell it, but now I'm thinking about de-lidding it and reapplying TIM and see if it helps, but not at the top of my list right now as I have other cpu's. Mostly just for fun.
My Corsair 850 has 4 x 6+2 I think. So next week I'll be able to put it all together hopefully and everything will work like it's supposed to. The sapphire card does have me slightly worried though. Although I scanned for artifacts for 30 minutes or so earlier with none, I have seen some strange things like missing textures(wheels and stuff) one race, and I have had a couple times where at the start of the race a couple of the cars looked like bulky jagged blobs or things just weren't right(I restarted and they were gone).

I'm not sure what to think.







drivers maybe, or just the fact that it was a throw together build. I just grabbed an IDE drive and stuck it in there and it already had xp on it and it worked, so I threw the 4890 in and loaded the catalyst whatever came with it(just changed to 10.3). I'm thinking maybe it will work better when hooked up to a proper PSU and motherboard and with a clean install of everything too.

Any suggestions?


Well, I wouldn't rule it bad yet. Since you took an HDD and it happened to work, it's highly likely that there's a driver incompatibility somewhere, like possibly the motherboard and the video drivers.

When you get your rig completely together and do a fresh install, if it still does it then it's very possible that the card is bad.


----------



## theCanadian

Got my TT BigTyphoon today! It was a refurbed one, but it appears to be in perfect condition. The only thing showing any sign of use is the packaging itself. Going home this weekend to lap it and do some major OCing. Hoping for 3.0Ghz.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 
Got my TT BigTyphoon today! It was a refurbed one, but it appears to be in perfect condition. The only thing showing any sign of use is the packaging itself. Going home this weekend to lap it and do some major OCing. Hoping for 3.0Ghz.










Before you use it, check the base for flatness. Mine was noticeably concave, and _required_ lapping to get it flat enough to use.

And remember DO NOT stick the backplate to the motherboard. It's seriously a mother-f to get off. I actually had to cut the double sided foam tape stuff, I though I was going to kill the board.







Luckily it didn't get scratched.


----------



## N2Gaming

I still have to find my box of games that was packaged away during the move. That is one good thing I learned to appriciate about Steam games. No disk required. I still like having the physical copy of a game not tied to Steam though.

Having fun w/Grid BO?


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Before you use it, check the base for flatness. Mine was noticeably concave, and _required_ lapping to get it flat enough to use.

And remember DO NOT stick the backplate to the motherboard. It's seriously a mother-f to get off. I actually had to cut the double sided foam tape stuff, I though I was going to kill the board.







Luckily it didn't get scratched.










Oh hell yeah. It's perfectly usable without sticking it to the back, and it makes it reusable if you don't. I have no reason to do that and every reason not to.


----------



## Name Change

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Before you use it, check the base for flatness. Mine was noticeably concave, and _required_ lapping to get it flat enough to use.

And remember DO NOT stick the backplate to the motherboard. It's seriously a mother-f to get off. I actually had to cut the double sided foam tape stuff, I though I was going to kill the board.







Luckily it didn't get scratched.










LOL i did that by mistake also, came off without a hitch after awhile of nervousness =P.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I still have to find my box of games that was packaged away during the move. That is one good thing I learned to appriciate about Steam games. No disk required. I still like having the physical copy of a game not tied to Steam though.

Having fun w/Grid BO?

Grid is fun, although the catch up logic is pretty annoying. It doesn't matter how fast I drive, the computer cars are always right there on me. They'll close a 20+ second gap in a matter of a few turns.








That and the opponent cars, even though they're identical to mine, seem to handle WAY better. The corners that I'm sliding around, they stick to like glue.
It's stuff like that, that made me not like the NFS series too much.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 
Oh hell yeah. It's perfectly usable without sticking it to the back, and it makes it reusable if you don't. I have no reason to do that and every reason not to.

After i cut mine off, I just left the residual foam on there and have used it on other boards. I'm thinking about making a custom bracket for mine to see how it does with my i7. Well.... when I decide to overclock it.







I've been so lazy about overclocking this thing.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Name Change* 
LOL i did that by mistake also, came off without a hitch after awhile of nervousness =P.

Did you have to cut the foam?

Man on mine I tried everything I could think of to avoid having to use a utility knife to cut the foam. Brute force was a no go, that stuff stretches pretty far







.


----------



## Name Change

Was hella pain to get off, I was like pff np its gonna omg off easy omg it was a struggle, I tried to pull and such. Not a budge. I Ended up cutting it off.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I'm starting to wonder if lapping might actually damage stuff inside. As in the constant friction might actually be creating very small static discharges from the IHS to the transistors/PCB.


I've never heard of lapping a chip to be the cause of it going bad unless the lapping was done unevenly = Not flat to the cooler once mounted. If it's running warmer than it did before the lapping, that would be my suspicion about it.

OK -on a brighter note today, my RMA sticks arrived and they are nice indeed!









AMD Black Edition (2x2GB's) DDR3 sticks and they have a really cool look to them. I'm not sure whether they'd outdo my old or current set but you know I'll be testing them soon enough to find out how they do.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


I've never heard of lapping a chip to be the cause of it going bad unless the lapping was done unevenly = Not flat to the cooler once mounted. If it's running warmer than it did before the lapping, that would be my suspicion about it.

OK -on a brighter note today, my RMA sticks arrived and they are nice indeed!









AMD Black Edition (2x2GB's) DDR3 sticks and they have a really cool look to them. I'm not sure whether they'd outdo my old or current set but you know I'll be testing them soon enough to find out how they do.


 It's just a theory I have about the lapping. I'd have to think of a way to devise a test to actually measure electrical discharges, and then stick it in between the core and the IHS, without it interfering.









I told ya they send you a new set.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
It's just a theory I have about the lapping. I'd have to think of a way to devise a test to actually measure electrical discharges, and then stick it in between the core and the IHS, without it interfering.









I told ya they send you a new set.










I've heard this before. And I think it does hold some small merit. That's why I would always lap with some kind of lubricant. WD40 or soapy water.


----------



## ny_driver

I did do the lapping dry, but it didn't negatively affect any other cpu I have lapped.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


I've heard this before. And I think it does hold some small merit. That's why I would always lap with some kind of lubricant. WD40 or soapy water.


 I typically use a few drop of water and that usually suffices.

But with my 720, I did it dry at first with a highly abrasive sand paper (60 grit) and for some reason I keep thinking that it would've overclocked better if I hadn't lapped it.
For instance before I lapped it, using the stock heatsink I could get it to 3200 with it under-volted and it was prime stable. After lapping with a better heatsink, it took more voltage to be stable at 3200 (it was still stock voltage but more than before). That's the only reason why this thought of lapping discharging in to the CPU due to the friction popped in my head in the first place. 
I'd need more CPU's the verify this though.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I did do the lapping dry, but it didn't negatively affect any other cpu I have lapped.


 Who knows maybe that 180 got seriously thrown around during shipping, not sure how that would affect anything, but it just doesn't make sense why I could get it to run stable at less voltage and a higher frequency.









The only thing I can thing that I can think of is the board. The DFI's are seriously awesome overclockers in regards to 939's.


----------



## ny_driver

I'll probably de-lid it and see if I can get it to run cooler. My CCBBE seems to top out about the same frequency, but with less voltage and much cooler. I have one CCBBE in my AV8 and one in the tyan tomcat and both run nice and cool. Maybe a little too cool even.









EDIT: I use 600/1000/1500 grit when I lap.....up to this point.


----------



## N2Gaming

I eagerly await your results for the new ram trials Kryton, Oh and see what good warranties do when you apply for them.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
I'll probably de-lid it and see if I can get it to run cooler. My CCBBE seems to top out about the same frequency, but with less voltage and much cooler. I have one CCBBE in my AV8 and one in the tyan tomcat and both run nice and cool. Maybe a little too cool even.









EDIT: I use 600/1000/1500 grit when I lap.....up to this point.

My god man, starting @ 600 would take for freakin ever to lap an AMD CPU. Even starting at 60 grit, it still took ... ~ 4 hours I'd say.

I went 60>100>220>320>600>800>1000 (on the 720), on others I have taken it as high as 2000 grit and then even polished it out to a mirror shine.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
My god man, starting @ 600 would take for freakin ever to lap an AMD CPU. Even starting at 60 grit, it still took ... ~ 4 hours I'd say.

I went 60>100>220>320>600>800>1000 (on the 720), on others I have taken it as high as 2000 grit and then even polished it out to a mirror shine.

I don't think it took more than 2 hours really to lap any of the 4 I've lapped.
They each had a similar low spot in the center. A 3700+, an Opty170, and 2 180s.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
I don't think it took more than 2 hours really to lap any of the 4 I've lapped.
They each had a similar low spot in the center. A 3700+, an Opty170, and 2 180s.

Do you apply pressure? You could also be using a higher quality sandpaper. The stuff I used would wear out after about 10 minutes and even the 220 grit would turn in to 1000 grit after not too long.

It seems that all AMD cpus have that low spot in the center.


----------



## ny_driver

I bought it at the local auto parts store, probably intended for body work. I do apply as much pressure as possible. I basically apply pressure, to the foam that comes in the clamshell, with the tips of 2 fingers. I usually go ~50 strokes back and forth in each direction. Sometimes 100 strokes, but that gets my arm tired. Too much like work.


----------



## pioneerisloud

By the way guys:

For anybody wondering if a highly clocked Opteron is a "bottleneck" to today's games, stay tuned here in the club







. Once my Athlon II x4 gets here, I'll do some side by side runs between my Opteron @ 3.0GHz and my Athlon II x4. I'll also test various clock speeds, and with the Athlon II clocked as high as it goes. I'll test all sorts of games as well







.

For comparison's sake, I COULD throw in my Athlon 64 3000+ into the ring as well. Although I already KNOW that a single core K8 is a bottleneck to today's games.

Anyway, I'll let you guys know once I'm starting with the testing.


----------



## ny_driver

I was actually just wondering about whether or not my Opty180 @ 2.8GHz was going to be a bottleneck paired up with 2xHD4890s, so I'll be interested in the results.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I was actually just wondering about whether or not my Opty180 @ 2.8GHz was going to be a bottleneck paired up with 2xHD4890s, so I'll be interested in the results.


Well, I am just awaiting my DDR2 to arrive. My CPU and board should be here later today







.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


By the way guys:

For anybody wondering if a highly clocked Opteron is a "bottleneck" to today's games, stay tuned here in the club







. Once my Athlon II x4 gets here, I'll do some side by side runs between my Opteron @ 3.0GHz and my Athlon II x4. I'll also test various clock speeds, and with the Athlon II clocked as high as it goes. I'll test all sorts of games as well







.

For comparison's sake, I COULD throw in my Athlon 64 3000+ into the ring as well. Although I already KNOW that a single core K8 is a bottleneck to today's games.

Anyway, I'll let you guys know once I'm starting with the testing.


 To make it "fair" you should disbale 2 of the cores (if you can with your board) and then run them clock for clock. 
I personally only noticed a difference in games with my 720. Other than that it wasn't really any faster than the Opty. But of course benchmarks like cinebench also had a marked improvement, but even the 720 crawled at a snails pace compared to the i7. Not like it matters though since I only game and type papers.
















Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I was actually just wondering about whether or not my Opty180 @ 2.8GHz was going to be a bottleneck paired up with 2xHD4890s, so I'll be interested in the results.


 I can say with utmost certainty that yes, it most definitely will be. You'll _maybe_ see a 1000 point improvement in 3dmark06, if that, when going from a single GPU to crossfire.

You really need a CPU ~3.5GHz to see the true potential of those cards in crossfire.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


By the way guys:

For anybody wondering if a highly clocked Opteron is a "bottleneck" to today's games, stay tuned here in the club







. Once my Athlon II x4 gets here, I'll do some side by side runs between my Opteron @ 3.0GHz and my Athlon II x4. I'll also test various clock speeds, and with the Athlon II clocked as high as it goes. I'll test all sorts of games as well







.

For comparison's sake, I COULD throw in my Athlon 64 3000+ into the ring as well. Although I already KNOW that a single core K8 is a bottleneck to today's games.

Anyway, I'll let you guys know once I'm starting with the testing.


Sounds like you have way to much time on your hands


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


By the way guys:

For anybody wondering if a highly clocked Opteron is a "bottleneck" to today's games, stay tuned here in the club







. Once my Athlon II x4 gets here, I'll do some side by side runs between my Opteron @ 3.0GHz and my Athlon II x4. I'll also test various clock speeds, and with the Athlon II clocked as high as it goes. I'll test all sorts of games as well







.

For comparison's sake, I COULD throw in my Athlon 64 3000+ into the ring as well. Although I already KNOW that a single core K8 is a bottleneck to today's games.

Anyway, I'll let you guys know once I'm starting with the testing.


My opty 165 at 2255MHz is perfectly capable of handling Crysis at "medium" resolution, with high settings. I think the Opty's really only struggle once the resolution gets pumped up to like 1600x1200....

Pretty sure a 3000+ would be a waste of time. I haven't even been tempted to put my 4000+ San Diego into my PURE and attempt to OC it. It's a waste of time because the benefits are so little. Even though it can probably break 3.5 with a little effort. I just run it at stock.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
By the way guys:

For anybody wondering if a highly clocked Opteron is a "bottleneck" to today's games, stay tuned here in the club







. Once my Athlon II x4 gets here, I'll do some side by side runs between my Opteron @ 3.0GHz and my Athlon II x4. I'll also test various clock speeds, and with the Athlon II clocked as high as it goes. I'll test all sorts of games as well







.

For comparison's sake, I COULD throw in my Athlon 64 3000+ into the ring as well. Although I already KNOW that a single core K8 is a bottleneck to today's games.

Anyway, I'll let you guys know once I'm starting with the testing.

If you can get one, a 140 Sempy unlocked would be the same spec-wise related to cache size.
Mine will unlock and it's handled everything I have to throw at it - In my case that's not saying much since my GPU's (And games







) are older ones now but I can't tell a difference between these chips.

Biggest difference would be speeds in MHz you could run it at with stability. My 140 unlocked will go around 3.2 - 3.3 no prob. Most good 939's can go about 3.0 before it gets too unstable to game with. I've been running it as a single core at 3.5 and it does just as well as my 175 Opty ever did with temps staying well below 40C.

SH4 can be a test using time compression to see how hard you can bog down the system when doing that.

Thanks for prodding me to do the RMA N2. Worked out well for me.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well of course I'd be doing clock for clock comparisons. And I'd also OC the holy hell out of the new quad core to see if it really makes a difference or not. I will put up a thread here shortly to get some ideas on what to bench. I'll link it here on this post, since us 939'ers are the ones that this is really going to be made for.

EDIT:
Here's the link to vote on what all you guys would like to see me benchmark between these two rigs.

Also:
I will be using my Opteron 165 dual core which is capable of 3.0GHz+ stable. I might even run some 3.1GHz benchmarks if my fire hazard of a board will allow.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I will be using my Opteron 165 dual core which is capable of 3.0GHz+ stable. I might even run some 3.1GHz benchmarks if my fire hazard of a board will allow.

Don't use "Burnout" for this testing.









Looking foward to seeing what you come up with.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Don't use "Burnout" for this testing.









Looking foward to seeing what you come up with.










I see what chu did thar!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


My opty 165 at 2255MHz is perfectly capable of handling Crysis at "medium" resolution, with high settings. *I think the Opty's really only struggle once the resolution gets pumped up to like 1600x1200....*

Pretty sure a 3000+ would be a waste of time. I haven't even been tempted to put my 4000+ San Diego into my PURE and attempt to OC it. It's a waste of time because the benefits are so little. Even though it can probably break 3.5 with a little effort. I just run it at stock.


Please do correct me if I'm mistaken here, but at such a high resolution, wouldn't the GPUs be doing the heavy lifting anyway? In other words, at higher resolutions, CPU performance is almost irrelevant since the GPUs would be doing most of the processing work.

Or am I completely off-base here?


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Please do correct me if I'm mistaken here, but at such a high resolution, wouldn't the GPUs be doing the heavy lifting anyway? In other words, at higher resolutions, CPU performance is almost irrelevant since the GPUs would be doing most of the processing work.

Or am I completely off-base here?










Depends on the game. Crysis is a very CPU intensive game. But yes you are correct, at high resolutions the GPU is doing a lot of work as well.

I was speaking relatively. 8800 series cards and better are perfectly capable of handling those resolutions, but that's also when the CPU starts to fall behind, in my experience anyway.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Please do correct me if I'm mistaken here, but at such a high resolution, wouldn't the GPUs be doing the heavy lifting anyway? In other words, at higher resolutions, CPU performance is almost irrelevant since the GPUs would be doing most of the processing work.

Or am I completely off-base here?










We will soon be finding out Joe







. I'll be running my testing as discussed earlier (and in another thread) at 1440x900 and at 1080p. So we will see how much the CPU plays into effect at both resolutions very soon







. That is EXACTLY the point that I am out to prove with these benchmarks.


----------



## theCanadian

Are you going to be doing runs at stock clocks? I think it would offer a more comprehensive understanding of how the OC affects the frame rates.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


Are you going to be doing runs at stock clocks? I think it would offer a more comprehensive understanding of how the OC affects the frame rates.


I am doing all SORTS of runs. Stock clocks, 2.8GHz, 3.0GHz, 3.1GHz, disabling cores, running different resolutions, different benchmarks....

I've got it all covered







. And I'll be making some good colorful graphs too. A review cannot happen without graphs







.


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, if you disable two cores and compare Ragnor (dual-core Propus) to Denmark at clock-to-clock we will learn architecture differences, if any, give that the Propus has less cache per core. If you then compare maxed out clocks, you can see what the real-world difference would be for someone who has a Denmark and considering a Ragnor. Then pop all four cores back on and compare maxed out to maxed out to see the advantage of going quad core with today's applications.


----------



## godofdeath

where on the cpu are the cores of my cpu located?
need to know the best way to apply TIM


----------



## playah

It can depend on what HSF you are using as far as placement goes, exposed heatpipe coolers can be different from a solid base


----------



## theCanadian

A rice shaped/sized drop in the same direction as the text will be the method of most pastes. And that^


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


A rice shaped/sized drop in the same direction as the text will be the method of most pastes. And that^


huh?

Well I am going to lap it soon, and the cooler i am going to use is the xigmatek balder with HDT


----------



## Blitz6804

According to Benchmark Reviews, you would want to use TIM to fill in the cracks between the pipes and the ridges. Then place two very thin stripes on either side of the center ridge(s).


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey all, I just wanted to give you all a little heads up. Cheap games again







This time they are the downloadable type from Direct2Drive. I purchased Dirt2 for less than $10.00 and MotoGP 08 for less than $5.00 and my total check out cost was $14.90. Oh and yes if you prefer paypal they do that as well. I paid paypal last night woke up this morning and all 3.5GB of Moto GP 08 was ready to play. I still have a little ways to go w/the Dirt2 download because it's a lot bigger of a file to the tune of 10.05GB.









Any way here is the link for the Spring deals at D2D Enjoy and game on.


----------



## ny_driver

I just went and ordered Dirt2, thanks for the link. It will be the first thing I d/l on the new system besides windows updates and stuff.








EDIT:Hopefully I'll get it going tonight.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
I just went and ordered Dirt2, thanks for the link. It will be the first thing I d/l on the new system besides windows updates and stuff.








EDIT:Hopefully I'll get it going tonight.

Glad I could help.







That dirt 2 down load is huge so unless you have comcast or some other high speed interent like comcast expect it to take up to 10+ hours. I started the download some time between 10 and 11 PM last night. I woke up this morning and the download was interupted. So I just clicked on the retry button and it left off where it was at and continued to finish the download. I still have a littel less than 1 hour to go. It's gonna suck if I have to redo the whole download







In any case I'm using a Download manager just as D2D suggests. Good Luck w/your download and new set up.


----------



## BlackOmega

N2, quick question about D2D, does it keep track of the games you purchased? And can you re-download them on another rig, as in if you were to build a new one?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
N2, quick question about D2D, does it keep track of the games you purchased? And can you re-download them on another rig, as in if you were to build a new one?

I don't think they track your hardware specifically. They do say you can down load your purhcased games at any time. So yes as long as they are still in business then you should be able to download the games on any pc. I won't speak of legalities involved because I'm not the game's developers but I'm sure you can download your purchased games more than once and on any pc you choose to download them on. Registration on the otherhand may be a bit tricky and I don't know if your validation keys are linked to specific machines or not. Once again not sure of the legality of such but it's prolly doable. let me log onto my account so you can see the screen that says download your purchased games.

Edit: here's an image that should help you decide if D2D is right for you.


----------



## BlackOmega

Thanks N2. I want to get a couple of games (Dirt2, STALKER) but I want be sure that I can use them on other machines as I tend to change hardware/configurations more often than your average Joe.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Thanks N2. I want to get a couple of games (Dirt2, STALKER) but I want be sure that I can use them on other machines as I tend to change hardware/configurations more often than your average Joe.


NP your very welcome. I figured you would want a cheap game or two







I don't mind being the guinea pig when the games are cheap enough


----------



## BlackOmega

I just sent them a support ticket asking more specifically if there's any issues with downloading it multiple times and activation. I told them that I frequently change my hardware and test various configurations so I re-install more often than your average bear.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I just sent them a support ticket asking more specifically if there's any issues with downloading it multiple times and activation. I told them that I frequently change my hardware and test various configurations so I re-install more often than your average bear.


I don't see how it would be a problem as long as your not using the same activation code on multiple rigs at the same time. Let us know what D2D says. Oh you don't have much time for the sale so don't lolly gag around to much.









Edit: Dirt 2 just finished downloading. Silver Bullet time
















Now I have to try to install it and hope and prey all goes well. Keeps fingers crossed


----------



## Blitz6804

DiRT 2, SMiRT 2... play GRiD with me! (^_^)


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


DiRT 2, SMiRT 2... play GRiD with me! (^_^)


LOL Ok let me finish testing out Dirt 2. and I'll log on


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


DiRT 2, SMiRT 2... play GRiD with me! (^_^)


 Only if you don't wreck us in to the walls.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Only if you don't wreck us in to the walls.









Your not on Steam atm


----------



## BlackOmega

Oh







I forgot I have it set so it doesn't log me in automatically.


----------



## ny_driver

Mannnn....I just put this system together and set the first boot device to cd in order to reinstall windows, and what does it do.......it tells me to press any key to boot from cd and then boots my SATA drive right up, and I set it up completely on the ABIT AV8. Stupid computer, so now I'm on the new system, but with the old OS and stuff. Hmmmmmm.............I guess i know what I need to do, but it just seemed pretty strange. Everything seems to work fine so far.









EDIT: I reformatted and reinstalled and am downloading 3dmark06 to test the cards out. Everything seems to be good.

reEDIT: runs through 3dmark05 no problems with max temps of 66 and 65c on the 2 cards. The score doesn't seem very high...maybe 16x/16x is not necessary. I gtg 2 bed, I've been up since yesterday morning aside from a couple cat naps in the car. I had to build this new system before I could go to bed.







wow I just realized 3dmark runs at standard to low settings by default, my score really was pitiful.







anyone want to buy a nice 939 system? JK.

Saturday edit: I overclocked my cpu 400MHz and ram 67MHz and gained 2000+ 3d points. Now @ ~11500 points. I just bought 3dmark06 to try. Why not?


----------



## ny_driver

Anyone know how I would go about testing the vcore on this board with my meter? The mosfets are passively cooled and it just looks different than any of my other boards. Thanks for the help.









EDIT: Anyways the verdict is in. I'm very pleased with the performance improvement in GTR2.


----------



## BlackOmega

No idea bud, but glad to hear that you're pleased with your rig.

Have you tried running the cards individually in 3dm06?


----------



## N2Gaming

Well I have had nothing but problems trying to get Dirt 2 working. It hangs at the load up screen. Here is the last post of a guy who had the same problem as me and I'm re-downloading it atm to see if I had corrupted zip files. I'll try the instructions on the last post from the link down blow this text. I'll let you guys know how it works out for me.









http://community.codemasters.com/for...ml#post6151153


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Well I have had nothing but problems trying to get Dirt 2 working. It hangs at the load up screen. Here is the last post of a guy who had the same problem as me and I'm re-downloading it atm to see if I had corrupted zip files. I'll try the instructions on the last post from the link down blow this text. I'll let you guys know how it works out for me.









http://community.codemasters.com/for...ml#post6151153



I'm assuming you extracted the files before you tried to install?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I'm assuming you extracted the files before you tried to install?


No and I think that is the problem. I just opened the zip file w/ 7 zip and started the install from w/in 7 zip. I'm doing the unzip now and will try to install it one more time. Now I have to re do my system retore back to where it was today before I ran system restore.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


No idea bud, but glad to hear that you're pleased with your rig.

Have you tried running the cards individually in 3dm06?


Nope not yet...I got 11,495 points last run with crossfire, and that was with 16x/16x 1600x1200. What did you get with your Opty and 4870s?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Well I have had nothing but problems trying to get Dirt 2 working. It hangs at the load up screen. Here is the last post of a guy who had the same problem as me and I'm re-downloading it atm to see if I had corrupted zip files. I'll try the instructions on the last post from the link down blow this text. I'll let you guys know how it works out for me.









http://community.codemasters.com/for...ml#post6151153


I'm going to d/l Dirt2 tonight, I hope I don't have any trouble.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Nope not yet...I got 11,495 points last run with crossfire, and that was with 16x/16x 1600x1200. What did you get with your Opty and 4870s?

I'm going to d/l Dirt2 tonight, I hope I don't have any trouble.


My guess would be the method of installation. I'm running the installation again after unzipping it and the installation is taking forever so I'm almost certain that's the ticket. I'd wait for me to find the solution before you start your instal so you don't run into any snags just to be safe. I'll be sure to report back as soon as i get it figured out and what the cause was. I think BO hit the nail on the head along w/the post I found on Code Masters Forums.


----------



## ny_driver

I'm downloading it now(2hrs 35min left). I look forward to hearing that you got it straightened out and how.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I'm downloading it now(2hrs 35min left). I look forward to hearing that you got it straightened out and how.










 fin install let me reboot and redo my activation code and i'll let you know how it goes


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Nope not yet...I got 11,495 points last run with crossfire, and that was with 16x/16x 1600x1200. What did you get with your Opty and 4870s?


That sounds about right to me. With a Brisbane (at 3.25 GHz) and a reference-clocked HD 4870x2 I got about 12.5k.


----------



## N2Gaming

Dirt 2 is now working for me. I actually alt+tab'd out of the game to give you an update. Now I'm gonna try a race just to make sure it's all good.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
That sounds about right to me. With a Brisbane (at 3.25 GHz) and a reference-clocked HD 4870x2 I got about 12.5k.

The cpu makes a big difference I think. Overclocking mine from 2.4 to 2.8GHz I gained ~2000 points. This board/PSU lets me run 2.8GHz at stock voltage. Maybe I can run the cpu higher than I had previously determined after testing it on the ABIT-AV8/Enermax. I'm definitely going to try now that everything is up and running. I suppose I'll have to try overclocking the cards too.
I'm having a minor problem with my force feedback and can't seem to get all 6 speakers to work correctly, but other than that everything is rock solid.


----------



## Blitz6804

My AT8-32X (Abit version of that board) did 2.8 GHz with stock voltage as well. I was able to get up to 3.1 GHz max, but not exactly stable. The best it could do was a [1M] SuperPi.


----------



## N2Gaming

Dirt 2 is rock solid now. Just make sure you unzip the folder before you install it. I tried to install before unzipping and it made things a lot harder then they had to be.


----------



## striker1989

if i have bent pins and tried to straigten them and stuck them back in the socket thingy on the mobo, do they all get straightened out after when you use that locking mechanism thing and stick a heatsink on top of it?


----------



## firewarrior1

amd should stop using annoying pins


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *firewarrior1*


amd should stop using annoying pins


I honestly prefer the pins over the LGA that Intel started. Much easier to repair pins on a CPU than it is on a motherboard







.


----------



## godofdeath

both should use something that wont break bend so easily


----------



## ny_driver

I was able to get this CCBBE to pass S&M(short/100%)@ 3003MHz. I couldn't get it to pass @ 2904MHz on my AV8. This motherboard and PSU make a huge difference. I think those are the 2 keys to overclocking a cpu.









Time for another run of 3dmark06


----------



## Blitz6804

I would upgrade your cooling if I were you. With that amount of voltage, anything over 55Âº C would make me squeamish.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

I envy you fellas.







Wish I had a gaming-capable PC here at my parents' house.







All I've got right now is my laptop (an Intel C2D-powered laptop, no less.







).


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


I would upgrade your cooling if I were you. With that amount of voltage, anything over 55Âº C would make me squeamish.


The idea definitely crossed my mind, but seeing how it doesn't get anywhere near that hot under normal circumstances it can wait awhile. I'm so happy with this new rig now I may buy the Swiftech in a few weeks. I need a new monitor though, too.

EDIT: what have you guys used to overclock dual cards successfully?

EDIT: I just ran 3dmark06 with the cpu @ 3GHz and DDR430 and I lost almost 1000 3d points from earlier with 2.8GHz and DDR467....I ran the tests twice @ 3GHz too. Looks like I should get some good DDR500 in there. Losing 37MHz DDR speed trumps gaining 200MHz CPU speed.....amazing.







there goes another $100


----------



## Blitz6804

Because when you had DDR467, I am willing to bet that was 1:1 with the CPU clock, whereas DDR430 was running 2:1.66, which likely killed your bandwidth.

Could you do 250x12 DDR-400? (That would give you 3.0 GHz with DDR500.)

Do you have Everest Ultimate to compare?

I personally have only ever used Catalyst Control Center to overclock, and the difference between stock and overclocked tends to be negligible for me, but I also seem to always get dud cards.


----------



## ny_driver

@ 2.8GHz I was 280x10 w/166 divider(233MHz) and @ 3GHz I was 273x11 w/166 divider(215MHz). The math in that doesn't make sense to me yet. I tried the 183 divider with 3GHz which should be 231MHz, but it didn't work out like Gogar said it should. I got the black screen.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Nope not yet...I got 11,495 points last run with crossfire, and that was with 16x/16x 1600x1200. What did you get with your Opty and 4870s?

I'm going to d/l Dirt2 tonight, I hope I don't have any trouble.


 I believe the best I got out of it with 2 cards was ~12,900 in 3dm06 with their default settings. (3dm06 doesn't compensate for resolution from what I've seen).

And I had better get Dirt 2 as well. I've been waiting for it to drop in price on steam, looks like that wont happen. Too bad they don't price match.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


I envy you fellas.







Wish I had a gaming-capable PC here at my parents' house.







All I've got right now is my laptop (an Intel C2D-powered laptop, no less.







).


What! That lappy should be able to play most games, unless it's got some sort of super crappy GPU in there. Even then, it should still be playable at low res. 
Any word from thlnk3r? Haven't heard from that guy since 'nam.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


The idea definitely crossed my mind, but seeing how it doesn't get anywhere near that hot under normal circumstances it can wait awhile. I'm so happy with this new rig now I may buy the Swiftech in a few weeks. I need a new monitor though, too.

EDIT: what have you guys used to overclock dual cards successfully?

EDIT: I just ran 3dmark06 with the cpu @ 3GHz and DDR430 and I lost almost 1000 3d points from earlier with 2.8GHz and DDR467....I ran the tests twice @ 3GHz too. Looks like I should get some good DDR500 in there. Losing 37MHz DDR speed trumps gaining 200MHz CPU speed.....amazing.







there goes another $100


 Try using MSI afterburner for actually changing the clocks and on screen display of framerates and temps. It's basically the same thing as EVGA's precision tool, just a little more robust.

As for your score, I find it hard to believe that it dropped that far from 37MHz. 
To put it in perspective, on my AM3 rig (x3 720 @ 3.6, RAM @ 1600 7-7-7-21-1T), my score would hardly change from 1600 MHz to 1333 MHz, like maybe 500 points. However, if I tightened the timings up to 6-5-5-15-21-1T I could alter the score by about 900 points.

I'd check for background processes running and hogging resources. 3dm06 is very sensitive to that.


----------



## ny_driver

now I get 10,940 points @ 3GHz w/DDR430 and default 3dmark settings. I don't know how I got 11,495 earlier @ 2.8Ghz w/DDR467.








There shouldn't be anything different running in the background that I can think of.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


now I get 10,940 points @ 3GHz w/DDR430 and default 3dmark settings. I don't know how I got 11,495 earlier @ 2.8Ghz w/DDR467.








There shouldn't be anything different running in the background that I can think of.


 If my score ever changes more than about 100 points, I open up task manager and see what's running. Some programs install quick launch things that are totally unnecessary, adobe reader and openoffice.org do that for sure. There's even some punkbuster programs that launch with windows for no good reason whatsoever.

If you installed Apple quicktime, it also has a quicklancher, not to mention an iPod launcher, even if you've never hooked an iPod to your rig.

I never use/install quicktime.


----------



## ny_driver

I set it to 2.8Ghz(234x12) 1:1 and my overall score went up to 11,163. Definitely need some DDR500.

EDIT: I went in to task manager and stopped everything except coretemp. I don't have anything installed yet but sp3, gtr2, cpuid, hwmonitor, s&m, firefox, thunderbird, fraps, 3dmark and gpuz.


----------



## Blitz6804

I too wonder what happen to Thlnk3r. He now shows as a Senior Moderator and a _Retired_ Director. I guess with Baby Tom he had to drop his activity way back?

ny_driver:

273 * 11 = 3003
273 * (183/200) = 249.795
3003 / 249.795 = 12.022
ceiling (12.022) = 13
3003 / 13 = DDR 462; I agree with Gogar

Does it POST with the 183 divider and 272x11? 271x11? Does reducing your hypertransport link help any? You are a little high for a Skt 939 system right now.


----------



## BlackOmega

That's so bizarre that your score goes up. When I checked mine, I started at stock and went up in 100 MHz increments, and it was a total linear progression. The faster my clock speed the higher my score. Although, I did try to keep my RAM right around DDR400 through all tests.


----------



## ny_driver

Reducing the HT link didn't help. 
When I go back into bios after failing to post w/183 divider, under memclock configuration it says : Mem Clock-"unknown" where it should say "183" 
And no it does not post w/ 183 and a lower multiplier either.
I guess it doesn't recognize 183, well why did they put it in the options?

EDIT: I just had to try 1 more time @ 3GHz w/DDR430 before I go to bed, and I get 11,725 points this time. Now I'm starting to really wonder about these cards I got. 1 more run of 3dmark now after that huge improvement...................and 11,663 on the 2nd run. I don't know what I could have changed? After I sleep I'm going to test the cards individually, and try swapping their positions to make the xfx primary.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
I was able to get this CCBBE to pass S&M(short/100%)@ 3003MHz. I couldn't get it to pass @ 2904MHz on my AV8. This motherboard and PSU make a huge difference. I think those are the 2 keys to overclocking a cpu.









Time for another run of 3dmark06

This is why I'm worried about my 939 OC. Even though I now have a better cooler, the PSU doesn't exactly have a stellar reputation. Though I am told this specific model isn't too bad. We'll just have to wait and see the next time I can get home.

On a previously related note, I too prefer having the pins on the CPU. And to answer the original question, all you have to do is get the pins straight enough to line back up. You might have to apply a little pressure for it to go in, but once you do, the pins will, for the most part, be straight again. Though they defiantly still won't be perfect.


----------



## Blitz6804

3DMark06 can flutter a LOT between runs. In fact, it can also flutter very little between hardware changes. One HD 4870x2 got about a 6% better score than a pair of HD 3850s on my rig. I will say without a doubt though that the HD 4870x2 dominated my HD 3850s often by 100-125% FPS improvements.

Do not rely on 3DMark06; it is almost worthless.

Try using SuperPi if you made a change only to your CPU clock; try real-world FPS tests in games if you change your system clock.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Reducing the HT link didn't help. 
When I go back into bios after failing to post w/183 divider, under memclock configuration it says : Mem Clock-"unknown" where it should say "183" 
And no it does not post w/ 183 and a lower multiplier either.
I guess it doesn't recognize 183, well why did they put it in the options?

EDIT: I just had to try 1 more time @ 3GHz w/DDR430 before I go to bed, and I get 11,725 points this time. Now I'm starting to really wonder about these cards I got. 1 more run of 3dmark now after that huge improvement...................and 11,663 on the 2nd run. I don't know what I could have changed? After I sleep I'm going to test the cards individually, and try swapping their positions to make the xfx primary.










 Maybe it auto enabled recognize odd memory divider? I'm pretty certain my DFi boards have this feature where you can enable/disable it.

Also, is this the kit you're running?

As I mentioned earlier, I never really bothered overclocking my RAM on my 939 rigs as the performance difference wasn't an improvement significant enough to warrant trying to overclock it. I found I got better stability with the RAM right at or around DDR400 with RAM that that's rated for it. I've never gotten the opportunity to mess around with DDR500 (Mushkin redlines) so I can't vouch for stability at those speeds.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


This is why I'm worried about my 939 OC. Even though I now have a better cooler, the PSU doesn't exactly have a stellar reputation. Though I am told this specific model isn't too bad. We'll just have to wait and see the next time I can get home.


 Good components make for good OC's, I found that out through trial and error. I bought a coolmax 700w before reading any reviews about it. I then read a Jonny Guru review on it, he made some of the caps literally pop off of the PCB. I quickly returned that and bought a PCP&C 750w. I got to mess around with that coolmax for about a week before I returned it, and the difference from that and the PCP&C was night and day. I was able to get about another 200MHz from my 165 with no voltage increase.

At any rate, you should watch the e-tailers for a good deal. I got my Seasonic for a steal, $120 shipped, it's now going for $199.

And if you're kind of strapped for cash something like this refurb OCZ 700w for $50 wouldn't be a bad PSU. And since I highly doubt your rig would draw anywhere near that much; it would run more efficiently.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


On a previously related note, I too prefer having the pins on the CPU. And to answer the original question, all you have to do is get the pins straight enough to line back up. You might have to apply a little pressure for it to go in, but once you do, the pins will, for the most part, be straight again. Though they defiantly still won't be perfect.


 I wholeheartedly agree. When I was seating this i7 I wasn't absolutely positive that it was _exactly_ where it's supposed to be, since it fits rather sloppy. You can move it around.

Whereas the AMD pops in under it's own weight, and you're 100% certain that the CPU is _exactly_ where it's supposed to be.

And it's a lot easier to straighten pins on a CPU than a board.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Regarding contact pin placement design: I've long held the opinion that Intel went to LGA (motherboard-based pin placement) to reduce the responsibility for repair in case of damage via bent pins from their own product (the CPU) to the motherboard manufacturers'. With no pins to bend or come off from the processor, the likelihood of warranty repairs/replacements ought to practically come down to zero.

(The reverse, then, becomes true for the motherboard manufacturer.)


----------



## ny_driver

Yeah BO that is the kit. Why do you ask? 
On a side note...someone from your town is selling some DDR500 GSkill on ebay that I was looking at. I think I better just bite the bullet and buy the NEW mushkin so I don't have to worry about them quitting like the other set I bought used.

EDIT: 11,722 3d points this morning. Maybe it was those couple programs running in the background, but I'm just not sure. Well, as long as it stays good. I'm going to go look through the bios better and see if I can enable the "odd" dividers.


----------



## Blitz6804

Maybe someone can make a product where it is entirely pinless? Pads on the CPU contacting pads on the motherboard? I wonder if that is possible?

As far as I know, AMD intends to keep its current platform: the desktop market is to keep a PGA and the server market, both the future C32 (for single- and dual-socket servers) and current G34 (for dual- and quad-socket servers) are LGA.

The question is: what happens when Bulldozer goes live? Unlike Deneb's roots in the K8, Bulldozer has been redesigned from the ground up, sharing nothing in common with prior AMD products. Makes ya wonder.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Regarding contact pin placement design: I've long held the opinion that Intel went to LGA (motherboard-based pin placement) to reduce the responsibility for repair in case of damage via bent pins from their own product (the CPU) to the motherboard manufacturers'. With no pins to bend or come off from the processor, the likelihood of warranty repairs/replacements ought to practically come down to zero.

(The reverse, then, becomes true for the motherboard manufacturer.)


 Wouldn't put it past intel to do something shady like that.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Yeah BO that is the kit. Why do you ask? 
On a side note...someone from your town is selling some DDR500 GSkill on ebay that I was looking at. I think I better just bite the bullet and buy the NEW mushkin so I don't have to worry about them quitting like the other set I bought used.


 Most memory has a lifetime warranty on it. Typically they don't even ask for a receipt or proof of purchase or anything. You should be able to RMA those sticks that you got, especially if they're part of a kit, you just send both sticks in. 
Man I wish I had the spare cash for messing around parts.

I was just wondering what your RAM was rated for. Have you tried benching it at stock speeds VS. overclocked speeds? Run both synthetic benchmarks and real world apps. I've found that the performance difference in real world apps is negligible, kind of no point in OCing it. Unlike DDR3 where the performance difference can be very noticeable. If anything, I'd try to tighten up the timings at DDR400 than go for more frequency. AMD's _really like_ tight timings.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


EDIT: 11,722 3d points this morning. Maybe it was those couple programs running in the background, but I'm just not sure. Well, as long as it stays good. I'm going to go look through the bios better and see if I can enable the "odd" dividers.


 I'm tellin ya, 3dm06 is very sensitive to background tasks. If you look at a lot of benchmarking rigs, they have as few processes running as possible. The last one I read more in depth on, they were only running something like 19 processes. Even for XP that's very few.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Maybe someone can make a product where it is entirely pinless? Pads on the CPU contacting pads on the motherboard? I wonder if that is possible?


 It's possible but, the quality of both the CPU and the socket physically would need to improve and be a lot more precise.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


As far as I know, AMD intends to keep its current platform: the desktop market is to keep a PGA and the server market, both the future C32 (for single- and dual-socket servers) and current G34 (for dual- and quad-socket servers) are LGA.

The question is: what happens when Bulldozer goes live? Unlike Deneb's roots in the K8, Bulldozer has been redesigned from the ground up, sharing nothing in common with prior AMD products. Makes ya wonder.


 I'm curious to see bulldozer. One of the main reasons I didn't sell my GD70







I bet with a BIOS flash that thing will support bulldozer no problem. But Buldozer can't be _that_ much different since you can use it on existing hardware.


----------



## N2Gaming

Regarding pin or the lack of in place of a pin less set up. Here's my take on it. The mobo could have little nipples for lack of proper terminology and the cpu could stay the same w/flat touch pads. Then as you stated BO the socket would have to be tightened up a bit so the cpu would fit more snug like a bug in a rug.









Did you take the plunge and get Dirt 2 yet? I'm loving it


----------



## ny_driver

My OCZ is rated at DDR400 and is good up to 467 w/ 2.5-3-2-5-1T, np there. You think I could RMA my Mushkins...is that what you meant, I should try shouldn't I? I'd really like to be able to run my system at 250x12 1:1, so I just need a little bit faster memory. Thanks for prompting me to try RMAing the mushkin.









I found that there is no way to enable or disable certain memory timings, but my board has a very old BIOS, and I'm having a heck of a time flashing it....several tries so far. I'll get it though.
EDIT: and thanks for the timings tip. I'll try it.


----------



## Blitz6804

My Mushkin Redline were rated at 3-3-2-8-1T for DDR-500. Perhaps your OCZ will run DDR-500 with the looser timings? I think that the higher speed and synchronous clock should make up for the lose of any bandwidth due to the looser timings.


----------



## ny_driver

I've tested the OCZ and they are only good to 467MHz, although haven't tested on this board.








I'm getting so frustrated with this inability to flash the bios. I've tried numerous ways...different flash utilities using FDD and USB.

EDIT: I finally got it to work using afudos226 flash utility, and now with the newest bios 0701 I still cannot use the 183 divider.


----------



## theCanadian

When are you going to get to real benching? Like games and time oriented tasks? I understand the importance of 06, it's helping you understand the synergy of the system right now, but I'm really looking forward to real world results.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


When are you going to get to real benching? Like games and time oriented tasks? I understand the importance of 06, it's helping you understand the synergy of the system right now, but I'm really looking forward to real world results.


I haven't really had much time to race yet because I've been so involved in getting the rig up and running, and fully overclocked in every way possible, on a short schedule. I have to leave for Washington, DC in 12 hours, so I'll try to do some real world benches for you next weekend. I can tell you that GTR2 is much better, as I raced a little yesterday. I haven't overclocked the GPU's yet and I only have 1 crossfire bridge right now.

And Blitz thanks again man! I decided to test the DDR400 OCZ Platinum @ DDR500 w/ 3-3-2-8-1T and they passed memtest. I'm very happy.







I know I tried loosening the timings when I tested them before, but on a lesser board. 
I'm going to go run 3dmark06 again and see if it's any better @ 3000MHz and DDR500. I'll be BACH.









EDIT: hmmmm...for some reason the score went down 700 points(11,011). The cpu score was slightly better, but the first 2 scores were much lower.







any ideas? I'll check to make sure nothing is running. Can I use AMD fusion for gaming to run 3dmark?

UPDATE: I had Adobe Reader checked in the startup tab in task manager. I unchecked it, rebooted, retested and get 11,793 points. That's the best yet. Sweet!!!!









UPDATE: Hey this looks a little better doesn't it? I wonder does the memory controller work harder when using a divider and therefore get hotter when using a divider. It's really not that much cooler in here today to change the laod temps by 10c.


----------



## Blitz6804

S&M is also very background tasks dependent. Between running it normally and running it with Aero turned off and my systray cleared can change temperatures as much as 10Âº C under maximum load. While you might not like the look of it, the best power will occur when you remove your wallpaper (leaving a plain color), keeping desktop icons to a limited number, if any, and using "Windows Classic" as your theme. That is, make your Windows NT 5.2/6.0/6.1 (XP/Vista/7) look like Windows 4.0/4.1/4.2/5.0 (95/98/Me/2000).


----------



## ny_driver

I put the side cover on and load temps went up 3c. I was only running core temp during s&m and not even core temp when running 3dmark. 
It's cool enough for me, I'll keep the eye candy on.

What do you think about the memory controller working harder and causing more heat when using a divider?


----------



## Blitz6804

It is possible. And if your temperature goes up when the door goes ON, I would check your case air flow. If anything, temperatures should go up when the door comes OFF because the air flow carefully considered is now disrupted by the open door.


----------



## ny_driver

I knew you were going to say that.........It's not perfect yet, but I haven't had time to do any case modding. I intend to install a side intake next to the VGAs and an exhaust fan on the back wall above the motherboard. This case is very large.


----------



## Blitz6804

Two schools of thought with custom fans: get the largest fan possible (like a 240-300mm) to provide the maximum amount of air with the minimum amount of noise. This is what is espoused by most case manufacturers today. Or the alternative school I formulated after repeatedly cleaning the dust out of my rig: get multiple 120mm fans with washible filters to keep the dust away from the internal parts in the first place. Note, however, that these fans WILL be louder under normal operation. If I could do it again, however, I likely would not have bought the Armor I did with the side fan; that dust is terrible.


----------



## CorpussStalker

Not sure why I never posted this but here it is anywho








With an ASUS A8N-E on air


----------



## Blitz6804

That is on air? If so, that is a ridiculous overclock. How cold was it out that day?


----------



## CorpussStalker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
That is on air? If so, that is a ridiculous overclock. How cold was it out that day?


Its was pretty cold, ambient of about 7celcius lol
I dont think the CPU ever went over 50c though

Here it is here in all its glory







, I bought a DFI Lanparty UT nF4 Sli Expert just to try and get a higher OC outta the CPU cos the ASUS couldn't overvolt, but the DFI could only get it to 3GHz


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CorpussStalker* 
Its was pretty cold, ambient of about 7celcius lol
I dont think the CPU ever went over 50c though

Here it is here in all its glory







, I bought a DFI Lanparty UT nF4 Sli Expert just to try and get a higher OC outta the CPU cos the ASUS couldn't overvolt, but the DFI could only get it to 3GHz









ASUS RULES!!! I've had mine for 3 days









Interesting development.....I discovered that the XFX was not ever clocking up to it's 850 using MSI Afterburner. So I tested the cards individually and the XFX neededme to install the drivers specifically for it. The driver installation I did with it connected as the secondary GPU did not take for the XFX. Anyways all those tests I ran were only running 1 GPU really because I ran 3dmark on each of them seperately and the scores were 11,742 for the Sapphire, and 11,741 for the XFX. I'm about to go try Crossfire again now that the drivers are installed for the XFX. I wish I had 2 Crossfire bridges right now, hopefully the 2 I'm getting will be here by the weekend from Denmark....I doubt it.

Stay tuned for more test results. EDIT: I do have 1 bridge.


----------



## Blitz6804

It is my understanding that you need one bridge less than the number of cards you have. That is, one card needs none, two cards need one, three cards need two, and four cards need three. If the bridge doesn't work on the first set of fingers, try the other. Try rotating the bridge 180Âº. But you should not need two bridges, if memory serves me.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
It is my understanding that you need one bridge less than the number of cards you have. That is, one card needs none, two cards need one, three cards need two, and four cards need three. If the bridge doesn't work on the first set of fingers, try the other. Try rotating the bridge 180Âº. But you should not need two bridges, if memory serves me.

That is the minimum number of bridges needed. It has been shown that using two bridges on two cards can net a 2-3 FPS increase. A minor, but consistent improvement.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Two schools of thought with custom fans: get the largest fan possible (like a 240-300mm) to provide the maximum amount of air with the minimum amount of noise. This is what is espoused by most case manufacturers today. Or the alternative school I formulated after repeatedly cleaning the dust out of my rig: get multiple 120mm fans with washible filters to keep the dust away from the internal parts in the first place. Note, however, that these fans WILL be louder under normal operation. If I could do it again, however, I likely would not have bought the Armor I did with the side fan; that dust is terrible.

I really like those filters.

Also, you can make your own washable dust filters out of panty-hos, mesh, ect.

And tight-weave material that can trap dust easily will be fine.

Also, I would like to Note that 120mm fans have a stark advantage over 140mm+ Fans:

The 120mm size has the most development put forth since the days of 80mm fans, thus you have more options, and they also have better specs when it comes to bearing type and static pressure.

Most 230mm fans are Sleeve barings, which do not like to be hung from the top of a case.

And 230mm fans (like the one found on the front of the HAF Series of cases) does not have good static pressure, so when you have a full HDD rack, very little air flows in from that area. But when replaced with 4 120mm fans with greater static pressure, more air moves past the HDD area at a greater rate, keeping the air flowing instead of building up into a "hot pocket" (punz) of air.


----------



## Blitz6804

I personally have replaced my stock fan with the Xclio Amazing Fan 250mm. It pushes more air than the stock 250mm fan, but I am not convinced it would beat a battery of four 120mms. I can tell you its quieter; the fan is inaudible at 500 RPM, just a slight whisper at 800 RPM.


----------



## ny_driver

Well, after swapping the cards around I finally got crossfire working properly, I think, except only 1 bridge. I checked core clocks with afterburner and once I knew they were both clocking up I shut that off, too and ran 3dmark. The results were not that impressive, I gained 600 points(12,340). The only place I saw a major increase in FPS was the canyon flight test, and that's the only one where the GPUs really went above ~50% usage.
I'll try some racing here in awhile. I'll save installing Dirt2 for next weekend.

EDIT: maybe I can overclock the cards now that they are both installed correctly.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Did you take the plunge and get Dirt 2 yet? I'm loving it









I did although, they said some crap like my transaction was taking longer than expected and they'd have to send me an e-mail or some crap.








PS: I bought Stalker Clear sky too. At $4.95 I couldn't pass it up.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
My OCZ is rated at DDR400 and is good up to 467 w/ 2.5-3-2-5-1T, np there. You think I could RMA my Mushkins...is that what you meant, I should try shouldn't I? I'd really like to be able to run my system at 250x12 1:1, so I just need a little bit faster memory. Thanks for prompting me to try RMAing the mushkin.









I found that there is no way to enable or disable certain memory timings, but my board has a very old BIOS, and I'm having a heck of a time flashing it....several tries so far. I'll get it though.
EDIT: and thanks for the timings tip. I'll try it.

Hopefully Mushkin replaces them for you.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
Well, after swapping the cards around I finally got crossfire working properly, I think, except only 1 bridge. I checked core clocks with afterburner and once I knew they were both clocking up I shut that off, too and ran 3dmark. The results were not that impressive, I gained 600 points(12,340). The only place I saw a major increase in FPS was the canyon flight test, and that's the only one where the GPUs really went above ~50% usage.
I'll try some racing here in awhile. I'll save installing Dirt2 for next weekend.

EDIT: maybe I can overclock the cards now that they are both installed correctly.

Told ya you wouldn't see much of an increase.







this is the exact same thing that happened to me, which prompted me to go AM3 because of the required clock speed to actually utilize my cards fully.

To put it in perspective, with my x3 720 @ stock I got about 3000 point increase. With it overclocked to 3.6, it was a 7000 point increase over the 939 rig.

I still haven't tried them on this i7, but when I feel the need (or want) I'll slap em in here. That and I'm still undecided about what I want the "final" configuration to be.


----------



## ny_driver

I think if the tests were more demanding it would do better with the 2 GPUs, like it did in the canyon flight.
Do you use dual Crossfire bridges?
I'm going to try overclocking the cards again now.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
I think if the tests were more demanding it would do better with the 2 GPUs, like it did in the canyon flight.
Do you use dual Crossfire bridges?
I'm going to try overclocking the cards again now.

Yep I use dual bridges. each one of my cards came with them, and my MSI board also came with 2 bridges because you have to use the first and third slot, the regular bridges wouldn't work.


----------



## ny_driver

Only 1 of the cards came with a bridge. A guy in Denmark offered to send me 2 of the longer crossfire bridges for free. So they're on their way tomorrow I guess.

And I have just discovered that the sapphire causes flickering and screen corruption during 3dmark when I overclock it to 900/1000 from 850/975, and the XFX seems to have no problem with it. The guy I bought the sapphire from told me he would swap me for his XFX, prior to me finding this problem. Hopefully he still will.


----------



## N2Gaming

Yay for BO and Hot Picket is what you get when a bug lands in your pocket Pizza :O


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I think if the tests were more demanding it would do better with the 2 GPUs, like it did in the canyon flight.


 Try doing this: Remove 1 card, download 3D mark 03 and run it. You might want overclock it and run it again for kicks and giggles. 
Then, run the other card the same way. Obviously jot down all your scores. Then run it in Crossfire, see what the point increase is at stock speeds, then overclocked.

I'd swap the cards and rerun it in CFX just for curiosities sake, but that's just me.


----------



## ny_driver

The sapphire just needed the voltage increased for that overclock. It's fine. I'm jotting down the scores as I go. Next test is CFX overclocked to 900/1000.

EDIT: well, the best 3dmark score so far came from 3GHz, DDR500 and both cards in crossfire and not overclocked. 12,410 for now.









EDIT: and here is the first dose of real world results......running GTR2 with the usual grid of 11 cars, 16x/16x, 1600x1200 and everything maxed out completely I averaged 60 FPS during a 6 lap race @ Imola, which is my usual test track because it is tougher on the video card for some reason.(and 80 FPS @ Monaco just for another example) I was only averaging ~45 at Imola before, and that was with track detail medium and track draw distance normal, and shadows medium







@ like 1152x864 or 1024x768. Pretty big improvement. I can't wait to install Dirt2 next weekend.







......ohhh and get a new monitor.


----------



## Kryton

I've yet to test my 8600GS in the AM3 with a game but the 7600GS likes it.
Noted a definite increase in what it can do but no tweaking







with the AMD chipset. Too bad my other 8600 bought the farm earlier so I need to get at least two other cards for running SLI with a 939.

As for performance, that's to be expected I think but I'm not sitting on these GPU's - I'm already looking to order some ATI cards for use with the AM3, hopefully four since it's a Quad Crossfire MB. These should work with the 939 too so it's not like I can't swap them as I need to for a real comparison. Between my DFI Expert and the A8N32 SLI Deluxe, I believe the Asus is the better of the two for gaming performance anyway. 
At least I know in some respects it actually beats the DFI.

Yeah, I also need to look into another monitor sooner or later before the trusty CRT goes. It's a 21' Viewsonic G800 that's coming up on ten years old and still games as good as it ever did right now but when temps are cool or cold, it appears to not come on until it warms up. When it does start showing a display, it's all fuzzy and dark looking but as it operates, this goes away, usually in about ten minutes or so max.

Used to not do that so I know the years of useage have caught up with it. Right now with warmer weather here, it does fine when I turn it on.


----------



## N2Gaming

I just finished uploading my poor quality Double-Barrel-Roll on a Utah track in Dirt 2. I had to use my digital camera at time of recording so there is some redish and green/blue lines on the screen and a fair warning you may want to mute the audio on this one. I'm still working on finding a free media converter for uploading video's to Youtube. In any case check it out just past the 1.15 minute mark.













Oh and since I'm on the Barrel Rolls I found this pretty cool Barrel Roll Montage video of Dirt 2 which I believe is a must see for any Dirt 2 players.


----------



## ny_driver

I sure hope the game isn't all about how many fake stunts you can do. I just want to race, and not do stunts that are actually impossible. Graphics look good. I am looking forward to the installation this weekend.
EDIT:eehhhhhhhh.......maybe a couple fake stunts will be ok







................................................








EDIT:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Between my DFI Expert and the A8N32 SLI Deluxe, I believe the Asus is the better of the two for gaming performance anyway. 
At least I know in some respects it actually beats the DFI.


I'm amazed that I can overclock my cpu and ram so much further on my ASUS A8R32 MVP Deluxe.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I sure hope the game isn't all about how many fake stunts you can do. I just want to race, and not do stunts that are actually impossible. Graphics look good. I am looking forward to the installation this weekend.
EDIT:eehhhhhhhh.......maybe a couple fake stunts will be ok







................................................








EDIT:

I'm amazed that I can overclock my cpu and ram so much further on my ASUS A8R32 MVP Deluxe.


Don't worry it's a pure off road racing game. I just wanted to take a video of a barrel roll I did while racing. Most of the time when you get air born like that you end up on your side or up side down on the roof/hood of your car and need a reset but this time I did not crash and kept going. Once I uploaded my barrel roll video I noticed the second link I posted up there of the barrel roll montage .


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I just finished uploading my poor quality Double-Barrel-Roll on a Utah track in Dirt 2. I had to use my digital camera at time of recording so there is some redish and green/blue lines on the screen and a fair warning you may want to mute the audio on this one. I'm still working on finding a free media converter for uploading video's to Youtube. In any case check it out just past the 1.15 minute mark.







 Nice roll









Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I sure hope the game isn't all about how many fake stunts you can do. I just want to race, and not do stunts that are actually impossible. Graphics look good. I am looking forward to the installation this weekend.
EDIT:eehhhhhhhh.......maybe a couple fake stunts will be ok







................................................








EDIT:

I'm amazed that I can overclock my cpu and ram so much further on my ASUS A8R32 MVP Deluxe.


 I always wanted to get one of those A8R32MVP boards. But I decided to go with the SLI one when I bought it.

A little OT: I'm so freakin pissed at D2D. My transactions (yes plural) never went though. I missed out on Dirt 2 and STALKER.









DO I need to have my pop up blocker off when ordering?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Nice roll









I always wanted to get one of those A8R32MVP boards. But I decided to go with the SLI one when I bought it.

A little OT: I'm so freakin pissed at D2D. My transactions (yes plural) never went though. I missed out on Dirt 2 and STALKER.









DO I need to have my pop up blocker off when ordering?

You should have got an instant email confirmation when you ordered
did you set up an account
Sorry to hear about that...

I don't know about the pop up blocker thing
I had no issues w/my order and it was my first time ordering w/them. IDK what happened on your end


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
You should have got an instant email confirmation when you ordered
did you set up an account
Sorry to hear about that...

Turns out I already had an account from like ........2004









Regardless, I never got any sort of email confirmation or anything. It just kept saying "Your transaction is taking too long to process, you'll receive an e-mail shortly." Never got one for either transaction, and I know I had way more than enough $$$ to get the games. SO I dunno.


----------



## Blitz6804

Try calling and complaining?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Try calling and complaining?

I contacted their tech support about it before the special had ended and they said they had no record of me making the transactions. There were no transactions on my account either that I could tell, although it was taking a long time for the online banking crap to refresh.
I was apprehensive to place more orders because I didn't want to repurchase the same thing over and over again.

By the time they got back to me and said "try it again" the deal was over and they said they couldn't give it to me at the discounted price.

Their loss, not a very good way to treat a first time customer.


----------



## Enfluenza

hey guys! i have a A64 3500+! im upgrading my old pc
is a opty 165 better than a A64X2 4800+ or vice versa?
thx


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Enfluenza*


hey guys! i have a A64 3500+! im upgrading my old pc
is a opty 165 better than a A64X2 4800+ or vice versa?
thx



IMO, the opty would be better because it has a larger L2 cache, 2 x 1024 IIRC, whereas the 4800x2 only has 2 x 512.

Even though the 165 is locked to a 9x multiplier, they typically overclock very well. And most decent 939 boards can reach some pretty dang high reference clocks.


----------



## Enfluenza

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


IMO, the opty would be better because it has a larger L2 cache, 2 x 1024 IIRC, whereas the 4800x2 only has 2 x 512.

Even though the 165 is locked to a 9x multiplier, they typically overclock very well. And most decent 939 boards can reach some pretty dang high reference clocks.


tht makes me very very happy!
its opty time!


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


IMO, the opty would be better because it has a larger L2 cache, 2 x 1024 IIRC, whereas the 4800x2 only has 2 x 512.

Even though the 165 is locked to a 9x multiplier, they typically overclock very well. And most decent 939 boards can reach some pretty dang high reference clocks.


The x2 4800+ 939 is 2 x 1024


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
The x2 4800+ 939 is 2 x 1024

My mistake. I accidentally looked at the wrong processor.(4600 x2 )

In that case, enfluenza, get whichever is cheaper.









Side note: Can you get the steppings of the CPUs?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


My mistake. I accidentally looked at the wrong processor.(4600 x2 )

In that case, enfluenza, get whichever is cheaper.









Side note: Can you get the steppings of the CPUs?


It doesn't help that there's 3 version of that CPU floating around.

AM2 - Windsor 2 x 1MB
AM2 - Brisbane 2 x 512KB
939 - (forgot codename) 2 x 1024MB

But some of the Athlon 64 x2 line had 4 versions of the same CPU.

2 x 512KB & 2 x 1024MB Models on Socket's 939 & AM2


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


It doesn't help that there's 3 version of that CPU floating around.

AM2 - Windsor 2 x 1MB
AM2 - Brisbane 2 x 512KB
939 - (forgot codename) 2 x 1024MB

But some of the Athlon 64 x2 line had 4 versions of the same CPU.

2 x 512KB & 2 x 1024MB Models on Socket's 939 & AM2


I believe the 939 version is a Toledo.

But yeah, they were constantly changing the names and such with them. Other than the cache sizes, I wonder what the difference between them is.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I believe the 939 version is a Toledo.

But yeah, they were constantly changing the names and such with them. Other than the cache sizes, I wonder what the difference between them is.










Manufacturing Process, Cache Size, and IMC's. 
That's all that was changed.

AMD Dropped from 90nm to 65nm, and reduced the cache size because it added heat, but did not add performance relative to the heat added.

IE: the 2 x 512KB design had more Performance Per Watt than the 2 x 1024KB design.

It also made the manufacturing easier.

EDIT: and the IMC Change was only the DDR1 to DDR2 IMC. They had a few revisions, but late life Windsors & Early Life Brisbanes had the same IMC.

Brisbane had a total of 3 IMC revisions IIRC. But the changes were minute for the most part.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Manufacturing Process, Cache Size, and IMC's. 
That's all that was changed.

AMD Dropped from 90nm to 65nm, and reduced the cache size because it added heat, but did not add performance relative to the heat added.

IE: the 2 x 512KB design had more Performance Per Watt than the 2 x 1024KB design.

It also made the manufacturing easier.

EDIT: and the IMC Change was only the DDR1 to DDR2 IMC. They had a few revisions, but late life Windsors & Early Life Brisbanes had the same IMC.

Brisbane had a total of 3 IMC revisions IIRC. But the changes were minute for the most part.


 Good to know. Although I meant with the 939 revisions, where some would go from lets say a Manchester to a Toledo.

So going by what you've said I would imagine it's cache size, manufacturing process, and most likely the IMC.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Good to know. Although I meant with the 939 revisions, where some would go from lets say a Manchester to a Toledo.

So going by what you've said I would imagine it's cache size, manufacturing process, and most likely the IMC.


From 130nm SOI to 90nm SOI.

Though, when AMD Reduced the cache on the x2 4800+ they instead called it an x2 4600+

IMC's had more revisions, but for the most part, it was small changes. I cannot remember, but there's one short IMC revision that was rather terrible, and the rest were generally on par with one another.


----------



## quentin

I was directed here by a fellow member. I'm selling some socket 939 stuff (4400, asus a8n-sli mobos, ddr ram) in this thread. I have a (possibly) broken motherboard that I'm selling for parts there too, check 'er out.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Anybody in here good at making a professional looking review / benchmark post? Good ol' pio here is still running comparison benchmarks between our beloved Socket 939 and an AM3 quad. And I could REALLY use some assistance in making a professional looking review / benchmark thread. Help?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Anybody in here good at making a professional looking review / benchmark post? Good ol' pio here is still running comparison benchmarks between our beloved Socket 939 and an AM3 quad. And I could REALLY use some assistance in making a professional looking review / benchmark thread. Help?



No idea bud. I suppose I'd just write and put in screen shots of my results. (Remember alt+ prt scrn to take SS's of just the result window without having to modify in paint or PS).

I'm curious to see the results though. I should've done the same thing when I put my AM3 rig together.

A little OT: Last night I watched this super interesting special on ancient tech and the possibility of aliens. 
At any rate, I made a thread about it and we've talked about some pretty interesting stuff. I highly recommend that you guys check that special out, and if you so choose, join in my discussion thread.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Good to know. Although I meant with the 939 revisions, where some would go from lets say a Manchester to a Toledo.

So going by what you've said I would imagine it's cache size, manufacturing process, and most likely the IMC.

I've noted myself that chips with a smaller L2 cache size tend to clock higher than chips with a larger L2 cache. This seems fairly consistent with what I have and you guys know what my X2 4200 Toledo can do compared to my other chips.
True, stepping matters and the chip itself factors in but all else being equal, I've had the best clocks from the X2. Of course related to the chip itself being a factor, my "Good" 4000+ San Diego is proof that a really good chip doesn't seem to mind it so much. That chip is the only one I have that seems to defy the trend I'm referring to.
It's just like chips that will or will not unlock extra cores, it's really luck of the draw when you get one.


----------



## Enfluenza

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I believe the 939 version is a Toledo.

But yeah, they were constantly changing the names and such with them. Other than the cache sizes, I wonder what the difference between them is.










yes the opty im looking at is a toledo.
lookit








http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/K8/AMD...165CDBOX).html
i love buying old stuff! cant wait till i get it with 2 8600GTS!


----------



## ny_driver

If you are just looking so far, I have an LCB9E Opty 180 for a very reasonable price. PM if interested.


----------



## nategr8ns

Need some help guys:
Booted up this morning, BSODed while loading u-torrent and firefox (with 100 tabs). Hard reset it, booted fine, launched firefox, loaded fine, went to launch utorrent, lock up. No BSOD this time.
Then I went into BIOS, put everything back to stock, but noticed that no drives showed up on the IDE channels (all I use). Rebooted, turned off, and unplugged slave HDD and my only ODD.
Rebooted, nothing. No BIOS, no nothing. Checked the LEDs, the left 3 are solid, the fourth (closest to the center of the motherboard) is flashing slowly...
I don't have my manual, but does this mean can't find CPU? It's weird that it died slowly (over three reboots) and that my hard drives seemed to fail just before. Does this point to anything?
NY driver, I may take you up on that 180 if no-one else wants it







. I just have to throw one of my other processors (one without a pin, one known to not be working 100% but I got it free).

Let me know what you think guys







.
edit: Yep, I'm now running on a 3700+, which feels dreadfully slow compared to my beloved Opty







. I'm going to try the opty in my MSI board sometime (this weekend, starting today, is super busy) to double check.


----------



## N2Gaming

Nate I would start to suspect PSU first. If you have a digital multi Meter handy you can test the power supplies 3v,5v & 12v rails when you power your system on for the first time. For your system to do what you have explained leads me to believe the first place I would look is the power supply.

Good Luck,

N2G

Off Topic:

I got my other Majic Jack rig set up w/another copy of GRID so me and my brother can race at the same time now. I have raced w/Blit*Z*, DR & PIO so far. Lets get a club race going soon







I know Joe has it and BO has it so that right there would be a nice 7 car race and if Nate has it then we could get a 8 car race. I'm not sure who else has this game but it's fun. So far I like the F3 Cars the most.


----------



## theCanadian

I has Grid.







But the only open wheel car I like is the little JRC FJ1000's.


----------



## Blitz6804

I personally like the GT2 cars; Spyker C8 Spider specifically.

N2Gaming: ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ!


----------



## FnkDctr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Need some help guys:
Booted up this morning, BSODed while loading u-torrent and firefox (with 100 tabs). Hard reset it, booted fine, launched firefox, loaded fine, went to launch utorrent, lock up. No BSOD this time.
Then I went into BIOS, put everything back to stock, but noticed that no drives showed up on the IDE channels (all I use). Rebooted, turned off, and unplugged slave HDD and my only ODD.
Rebooted, nothing. No BIOS, no nothing. Checked the LEDs, the left 3 are solid, the fourth (closest to the center of the motherboard) is flashing slowly...
I don't have my manual, but does this mean can't find CPU? It's weird that it died slowly (over three reboots) and that my hard drives seemed to fail just before. Does this point to anything?
NY driver, I may take you up on that 180 if no-one else wants it







. I just have to throw one of my other processors (one without a pin, one known to not be working 100% but I got it free).

Let me know what you think guys







.
edit: Yep, I'm now running on a 3700+, which feels dreadfully slow compared to my beloved Opty







. I'm going to try the opty in my MSI board sometime (this weekend, starting today, is super busy) to double check.


Have you performed a power drain? Unplug the computer from the wall, hold down the power button for 30 seconds. Plug it back in, and try again.


----------



## N2Gaming

OK so add TheCanadian to the list of potential Grid Racers for a club race.


----------



## nategr8ns

Thanks guys, I did perform a power drain, and the PSU is nothing special but its reliable when I need it to be.

The issue was the processor. I'm currently using an athlon 3700+ which feels dreadfully slow compared to my Opty, but it works.

I have GRID, just not installed







. Hopefully the 3700+ can handle it. I got the proc for free with the warning that it doesn't always work, so we'll see... I've been doing some fairly CPU intensive stuff (I got back into coding and have been compiling a fair bit) and I've been GPU folding the whole time.


----------



## godofdeath

got lapping kit coming on the way


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Off Topic:

I got my other Majic Jack rig set up w/another copy of GRID so me and my brother can race at the same time now. I have raced w/Blit*Z*, DR & PIO so far. Lets get a club race going soon







I know Joe has it and BO has it so that right there would be a nice 7 car race and if Nate has it then we could get a 8 car race. I'm not sure who else has this game but it's fun. So far I like the F3 Cars the most.

I'd be down for sure.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 
I has Grid.







But the only open wheel car I like is the little JRC FJ1000's.

As far as open wheel cars are concerned that too is my favorite. You can pretty much go around almost any track with the pedal to the metal.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
I personally like the GT2 cars; Spyker C8 Spider specifically.

The Spyker is pretty cool, has a nice sound to it.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
Thanks guys, I did perform a power drain, and the PSU is nothing special but its reliable when I need it to be.

The issue was the processor. I'm currently using an athlon 3700+ which feels dreadfully slow compared to my Opty, but it works.

IIRC, 3 LED's was RAM and 4 was the CPU (or lack thereof). Did you try running just 1 stick with your opty?

And I would imagine that you could OC that 3700+ at least some. While it may not be great, it should handle Grid just fine.


----------



## Smash91

Can i join !









http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1147625


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I'd be down for sure.









As far as open wheel cars are concerned that too is my favorite. You can pretty much go around almost any track with the pedal to the metal.









The Spyker is pretty cool, has a nice sound to it.

And I would imagine that you could OC that 3700+ at least some. While it may not be great, it should handle Grid just fine.


GRID?!?!....what about Dirt2? Is Grid pretty awesome? Sounds like you all like it. I've got to get Dirt2 going before I get anything else. 
My 3700+ does GTR2 pretty well.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Smash91*


Can i join !









http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1147625




You sure can.......someone will add you to the roster pretty soon I'm sure.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


IIRC, 3 LED's was RAM and 4 was the CPU (or lack thereof). Did you try running just 1 stick with your opty?

And I would imagine that you could OC that 3700+ at least some. While it may not be great, it should handle Grid just fine.


No, I forgot to try changing up the RAM







. I'll try to overclock the 3700+ next week during school, though I may be too busy with school. I have family here until vacation ends on Sunday, so I won't have much time before school starts up again.


----------



## N2Gaming

I love Dirt 2. Not many people have it. Dirt 2 uses Games for windows live if that makes any difference to any one.

Looks like we may need to take a poll for day and time of the week when most club members would be able to join a game of Grid for a decent session of racing.


----------



## nategr8ns

I would love to get Dirt 2, but there's other things more important to me for my money.


----------



## Smash91

I`m so sorry for the 939socket series. AMD did a mistake to leave the 939 in the dual-core stage. I would be very happy to run a quad-core processor on 939 xD.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Smash91*


I`m so sorry for the 939socket series. AMD did a mistake to leave the 939 in the dual-core stage. I would be very happy to run a quad-core processor on 939 xD.


I would've been happy with that as well







.

Since I had to switch to AM3 though, I'm not complaining too much. Stability testing right now at 3.7GHz







.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


No, I forgot to try changing up the RAM







. I'll try to overclock the 3700+ next week during school, though I may be too busy with school. I have family here until vacation ends on Sunday, so I won't have much time before school starts up again.


 It's cool we all know how it is when you're trying to just get your rig to work. 
Good luck with the 3700+ OC









Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I love Dirt 2. Not many people have it. Dirt 2 uses Games for windows live if that makes any difference to any one.

Looks like we may need to take a poll for day and time of the week when most club members would be able to join a game of Grid for a decent session of racing.


 Man I'm so pissed that D2D didn't work.







I've been waiting for Dirt2 to go on sale. Oh well, it looks as though they're going to miss out on revenue that steam will most likely get.








As for a Grid Session, I'm down on the weekends, kind of late usually; but, if it's earlier, I'm sure I can work something out.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Smash91*


I`m so sorry for the 939socket series. AMD did a mistake to leave the 939 in the dual-core stage. I would be very happy to run a quad-core processor on 939 xD.


 That would've been nice. If there were quads available, I wouldn't have upgraded.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Since I had to switch to AM3 though, I'm not complaining too much. Stability testing right now at 3.7GHz







.


 Nice!







Have you tried unlocking the L3 cache? (if it's even possible with that board).


----------



## pioneerisloud

I guess it just wasn't meant for me to upgrade at all, lol. Back to Burny v1.1 (sig rig). My AM2+ board just caught fire (literally) earlier this morning. The 4 pin PSU connector has charred black marks on it. And the entire trace between the 4 pin and the northbridge is completely burnt on the backside.


----------



## N2Gaming

So we have one member stepping up to weekend racing later in the evenings...







So far so good.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I guess it just wasn't meant for me to upgrade at all, lol. Back to Burny v1.1 (sig rig). My AM2+ board just caught fire (literally) earlier this morning. The 4 pin PSU connector has charred black marks on it. And the entire trace between the 4 pin and the northbridge is completely burnt on the backside.









Holy shiz! That's not so good. Were you going for an OC at the time?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
So we have one member stepping up to weekend racing later in the evenings...







So far so good.









IT'S ON!







That'd be cool if we could get everyone together to race.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*









Holy shiz! That's not so good. Were you going for an OC at the time?

IT'S ON!







That'd be cool if we could get everyone together to race.










I was stability testing 3.64GHz, DDR2-1040.

Link Here.


----------



## blueandblack

Im looking to do an upgrade on an old system







Will a nforce4 939 motherboard link , windows xp, and this 4350 be compatible.

Anyone here using one of the 4000 series cards with no problems using HDMI out for sound+video with thier socket 939 system and Windows xp ?

By the way, that mobo I linked to was sitting around unused for over 4 years. The mobo it replaced had that old electronics copper smell when I took it out and was used for over 5 years but still worked just fine. With a new case, unused mobo, and well cleaned heatsink my socket 939 system is like brand new







. I got a spare 3000+ Venice also.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blueandblack*


Im looking to do an upgrade on an old system







Will a nforce4 939 motherboard link , windows xp, and this 4350 be compatible.


 That should all be compatible.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blueandblack*


Anyone here using one of the 4000 series cards with no problems using HDMI out for sound+video with thier socket 939 system and Windows xp ?


 I have used 2 4870's on a 939 rig (2 of them in fact) and I had no issues with the HDMI video out but I didn't use the audio since I had, at the time, an XFi sound card. 
However, you have to make sure that you install the audio driver as well as the video driver. For some reason, even though I wasn't using the audio portion of it, I would get a pop to install the audio drivers. 
They can be downloaded from AMD's site.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blueandblack*


By the way, that mobo I linked to was sitting around unused for over 4 years. The mobo it replaced had that old electronics copper smell when I took it out and was used for over 5 years but still worked just fine. With a new case, unused mobo, and well cleaned heatsink my socket 939 system is like brand new







. I got a spare 3000+ Venice also.


 You might get some connectivity issues between your peripherals and the board due to corrosion, sometimes re-seating your cards and whatnot remedies the situation if you happen to encounter one.

At any rate, good luck with your "new" build and if you have any issues don't hesitate to ask.


----------



## Blitz6804

I had no problems using HDMI audio out. However: note that you are using your video card for sound processing, not any exterior or motherboard sound. This means if you want to be able to use a microphone, you need two sets of drivers on your computer: audio driver for the HD 4000's audio out, and driver for your motherboard's or soundcard's audio in.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


I had no problems using HDMI audio out. However: note that you are using your video card for sound processing, not any exterior or motherboard sound. This means if you want to be able to use a microphone, you need two sets of drivers on your computer: audio driver for the HD 4000's audio out, and driver for your motherboard's or soundcard's audio in.


The ATi Audio Driver should come in the ATi Driver Package though.

Also, you'll have to change the defaults on your computer to output via the HDMI connection.


----------



## SwishaMane

Hey guys, pages and pages ago I wrote about my rare stepping Opty 180, CCB1E 0550, etc... Well uh, it turns out to be a 100% dud still, so sad face







...

BUT... I just got my hands on, even tho its not here yet (bad saying, lol) a 939 engineering sample. Its the one from this thread, with pics...

http://www.overclock.net/amd-cpus/71...ng-sample.html

What do you guys think it is... Based on info and what I researched (could research), I think its the 104th, 4400+ spec 939 CPU they made. Can you guys tell me anymore about it? ITs on its way with that sick AMD enclosure too. Im curious to know for sure, but theres just not enough info. RB stands out for mem controller revision, F being windsor I think, which is conclusive with my idea its a 4400 spec, given the number '4430' on the chip. Or could 104 stand for somethign else, and mebbe this is the 30th 4400+ (4430), could make sense.

IDK! HELP ME OUT! Peace!


----------



## BlackOmega

No idea on that one bro. The markings only give a limited amount of info. The 28 KPa, I'm assuming signifies some sort of pressure, hence the kilo pascals.

I would assume that 104 means that it's the 104th engineering sample (ES). Or the fourth one depending on their numbering scheme.

I don't think that you'll find any sort of conclusive information about the RFB portion of it since it's an ES. So it could stand for any number of acronyms.

And going by assumption, the 44 in 4430 would lead me to assume that it is a 4400+.

Is that chip known to work?

Also, it's kind of nuts that they cut that line in to it.


----------



## SwishaMane

We arent sure if it works or not just yet, but I will test the minute I get it!


----------



## ny_driver

I just tried to unzip and install Dirt2 and it tells me the compressed zip folder is invalid or corrupt. Great....I get to spend another 3-4 hours downloading it and try again.









EDIT: another hour and a half left.....







I'll go cut a hole to install a 120mm side intake fan for my GPUs..................EDIT: finished installing side intake fan. I'll post pics of my new system maybe tonight. I think it has pretty well balanced air flow now. I have 1x120mm direct intake side fan and 2x80mm exhaust at the back with 1x140mm which is partially indirect intake and partially for circulation mounted right behind the GPU power plugs. Here is a HWMonitor shot with the system @ idle. I'm re-downloading Dirt2 so I don't want to rock the boat by stressing the system right now.







I'll post a load screen shot later.

The cpu vcore is set to stock voltage + 200mv with vcore overvoltage (or something like that) enabled. The meter says 1.6v...........I think I might buy the swiftech H20-220 extreme seeing how I just sold the LCB9E 180 which should pay for roughly half.









Here are screen shots after 3dmark and then after s&m....not bad but I'm getting the 220 Extreme. EDIT: and lastly a screen shot from after GTR2 just for kicks(which is awesome by the way). Time to install Dirt2.


----------



## Blitz6804

As long as you have air conditioning, 61Âº C should be fine. If not, I can guarantee your ambient will be more than 4Âº C higher than now, and the 220 would be a great idea.


----------



## ny_driver

I don't have a/c at home, but I don't really need it. And the H20-220 is a lot cheaper than running a/c all summer I bet.

EDIT: where can I find a socket 939 adapter bracket for the Swiftech H20-220 Ultima XT......I tried to post a link to it @ crazy pc but it didn't work. http://www.crazypc.com/store/merchant.mvc?
I don't see it available there.

EDIT: I see I can write to swiftech and get 1 for free, but I want it when the h20-220 arrives....where can I buy one?


----------



## Blitz6804

Email them to send you one the second you place your order. If you make a PDF copy of your receipt that should be sufficient. Worse case, try eBay.


----------



## ny_driver

I ordered it http://www.crazypc.com/products/h2o-220-xt-9378.html , and will call swiftech first thing in the morning and get the adapter bracket shipped. The only email address is for Europe. Hopefully they will get the bracket here by Thursday from California.









EDIT: I bet I can find a use for that vantec tornado, too.


----------



## ny_driver

I finally installed Dirt2 and it is pretty sweet. I do however have a couple problems with it. First I can't use my mouse to navigate about the menus, and secondly I couldn't for the life of me figure out how to exit the game. I had to alt/tab and then ctrl/alt/del to get out of the game.

I feel helpless during all the loading screens....I can't even move my mouse around. I think the loading screens are a little overkill....there should be a simple navigatable menu.


----------



## Obakemono

Never mind, the forum just deleted this message, but I respect it. I'll just build up my posts then list my stuff later.


----------



## ny_driver

Tell us what specifically you have would help.







EDIT: but I think that is breaking the rules also so nevermind, and besides I just realized you never even actually said anything or asked a question in this thread. So I'm just going to pretend this reply does not exist.


----------



## ny_driver

I'm thinking about upgrading to Windows 7, but I was wondering if it's worth the extra $100 to get Ultimate upgrade over the Home premium upgrade?

EDIT: I guess it's not worth it for me after looking here http://store.microsoft.com/Windows7/Compare

I'm going to get Home premium full version. I'm tired of upgrading every time I install my OS.


----------



## Blitz6804

Unlike with Vista, it is generally not necessary to get more than Home Premium with Windows 7. Professional adds domains (not used much by home users), XP mode, and automatic backup, the latter two can be added by freeware. Ultimate adds Bitlocker, which is usually overkill for most, but some freeware offer the ability to encrypt, and the ability to switch your language without reinstalling Windows. A feature I have no idea why they have it.

As to your upgrade: going from XP to Windows 7 requires you to do a clean install. If you have an XP Retail edition, Windows 7 will be considered a Retail edition. If you have an XP OEM edition, Windows 7 will be OEM as well, so it would be tied to your motherboard requiring a new copy of Windows 7 with a new motherboard. If you have a Retail XP, I say go for the upgrade. If you have an OEM XP, I say pay extra for a full edition so you can port to another PC later.


----------



## SwishaMane

DAMNIT! All my hard to find CPU are bunk...

I just tried testing my "4400+" ES, well...

System starts up, all fans...
No video...
No keyboard or mouse initialize...
No, anything...

Well, I observed my BIOS not saving all my settings. Things like, it would remember that my OC profile was set to Manual instead of Auto, but wouldn't set FSB. not matter the value, upon boot it would stay 400, but in bios say 210, etc... I could change CPU multi and vcore, but not the divider... DDR500, 466... always DDR400 at boot...

Well damn... (depressed for liek 5 mins...)

HEY! I bought a new BIOS for a mobo just like this one liek 4 months ago... to replace a bad chip on a mobo the guy ended up ripping me off on by not shipping. It just happens to be compatible with this mobo. Hm?

It's too late here now, but I'm gonna give this ES a go again tomorrow after switching and testing new bios. I have a good feeling.









*if you didn't get it, it was like I was telling a story... pwnd


----------



## BlackOmega

That sucks that it didn't POST. Did you try stripping the rig down? (i.e. 1 stick of ram, 1 gpu, etc)


----------



## SwishaMane

Well, I tossed in that BIOS chip. It was working sweet at first, the board was recognizing it, the bios is running the board in a8ne sli deluxe, which is not right, this board only has a 16x and 4x pci-e, but it supporting sli in the bios, LOL. I ran into a problem with the board not wanting to progress from post to boot windows. Well, some tinkering later I got it, must have been a weird bios option, probably something this board doesn't support that the BIOS was trying to find. Easy to understand I guess...

Well, after getting the measly 2.2Ghz 4200+ to boot and run Windows fine I decided to skip flashing BIOS to normal boards version, for now, and pop the ES in.

WELL, IT WORKS! The damn ES works! BIOS recognizes it as AMD Engineering Sample 00.

CPU-Z is pulling it up as same thing, older and new version are identical for this chip.

Its a 2.6ghz, 13x multi ES! Labeled 4400? Maybe 4430 doesn't stand for what we thought? This chip is FX-60 spec, but IDK about unlocked multi just yet, I will look. ITs running at 1.376vcore, which is a standard. Check the CPU-Z...

What do you guys think? Awesome or what?


----------



## ny_driver

Looks like a really good chip. Congrats.








EDIT: make sure you let us know how well it overclocks.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*


Well, I tossed in that BIOS chip. It was working sweet at first, the board was recognizing it, the bios is running the board in a8ne sli deluxe, which is not right, this board only has a 16x and 4x pci-e, but it supporting sli in the bios, LOL. I ran into a problem with the board not wanting to progress from post to boot windows. Well, some tinkering later I got it, must have been a weird bios option, probably something this board doesn't support that the BIOS was trying to find. Easy to understand I guess...

Well, after getting the measly 2.2Ghz 4200+ to boot and run Windows fine I decided to skip flashing BIOS to normal boards version, for now, and pop the ES in.

WELL, IT WORKS! The damn ES works! BIOS recognizes it as AMD Engineering Sample 00.

CPU-Z is pulling it up as same thing, older and new version are identical for this chip.

Its a 2.6ghz, 13x multi ES! Labeled 4400? Maybe 4430 doesn't stand for what we thought? This chip is FX-60 spec, but IDK about unlocked multi just yet, I will look. ITs running at 1.376vcore, which is a standard. Check the CPU-Z...

What do you guys think? Awesome or what?










Jealousy is all I feel.


----------



## SwishaMane

Currently 220x12 for 2.640ghz... Gonna slowly work up on this chip. I just accidentally OC'd it to 3ghx and 2.75 not realizing (not remembering) the math on the fsb to multi. So it BSOD a couple times already. Who knows just how abused it may have already been tho, and who knows, maybe not. Since it fixed my ES, I wonder if this mobo will read and boot with my rare Opty now? HMM! Too bad there's not enough time right now. Gotta go to work, BOO!

BTW, before I forget, the multi is LOCKED, at 13x, so the crowd goes "AWWWW" sucks, but who cares? LOL Cores are off in temp by like 5C all the time it seems, just like any other dual core 939. I'm gonna do some more testing when I get home tonight. Peace guys!


----------



## Blitz6804

So its an Opteron 185 then.


----------



## ny_driver

So mine is an Opteron 195 right now. I'm going to try to make it an Opteron 200 as soon as I get my new Swiftech H20-220 Ultima XT installed. It will be here tomorrow.








EDIT: I booted @ 3.1Ghz, but failed L1 test. And I already have the overvoltage set to it's max which is +200mv, but there is a setting called core voltage that has the following settings IIRC 1.2, 1.3, 1.4,and 1.5v, and it is only set to 1.2v. I couldn't find a good explanation for that setting in the manual. I suppose I'll have to try increasing that to get some more voltage through the chip once I get her on water. She runs pretty cool already.


----------



## johnny13oi

Kinda sad I sold that engineering chip for like a fifth of it's value. Good luck maxing that chip out. And swisha, if you ever sell that chip for what it's worth, don't forget about me







.


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, the Opterons were numbered based on their multiplier. 165 is 9x, 170 is 10x, 175 is 11x, 180 is 12x, and 185 is 13x. There were rumors that there was a 190 (14x) but I have never actually seen one.


----------



## ny_driver

Ohh yeah I forgot about the multiplier...but I can call it an Opteron 200 if I want to







, if I get it to run 3.2Ghz

EDIT: I just realized I'm 4 posts away from 939 posts. We should have a party this week.








EDIT: I think it may be time to overclock my account


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Ohh yeah I forgot about the multiplier...but I can call it an Opteron 200 if I want to, if I get it to run 3.2Ghz










No you can't. It's still only got a 12x multiplier (assuming its the 180 in your sig). Just because its running at 3.2GHz, doesn't mean its a different chip.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Well, the Opterons were numbered based on their multiplier. 165 is 9x, 170 is 10x, 175 is 11x, 180 is 12x, and 185 is 13x. There were rumors that there was a 190 (14x) but I have never actually seen one.


Opty 190 was a Production Sample and Engineering Sample only.

Never officially hit the channel market.

http://products.amd.com/en-us/downlo...nce_100707.pdf


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


No you can't. It's still only got a 12x multiplier (assuming its the 180 in your sig). Just because its running at 3.2GHz, doesn't mean its a different chip.


lol....don't be so serious, I realize the reality of it.


----------



## nategr8ns

Currently overclocking the 3700+.
Not stable at 230x11, so I'm testing 225x11=2475. 12.5% overclock is more "meh" than I was expecting out of a single core.
40 minutes into an OCCT High-priority test.

Anybody have a medium-well overclocking Dual Core sittin' around? I'm thinking one with 2x1M L2.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
Currently overclocking the 3700+.
Not stable at 230x11, so I'm testing 225x11=2475. 12.5% overclock is more "meh" than I was expecting out of a single core.
40 minutes into an OCCT High-priority test.

Anybody have a medium-well overclocking Dual Core sittin' around? I'm thinking one with 2x1M L2.

Is it a Venice? I could get about 500 MHz out of mine, but it seriously took a lot of voltage.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
Currently overclocking the 3700+.
Not stable at 230x11, so I'm testing 225x11=2475. 12.5% overclock is more "meh" than I was expecting out of a single core.
40 minutes into an OCCT High-priority test.

Anybody have a medium-well overclocking Dual Core sittin' around? I'm thinking one with 2x1M L2.

I have a CCBBE Opty 180 just sitting here that I got for a pretty good price...same exact stepping as the one I am using. I tested it on my AV8 and couldn't get quite as high as this one. I'd bet money it will do 2.8GHz+ on a decent board. If you are interested I could give it to you for a fair price. PM me.

EDIT: CCBBE 0615EPMW to be exact. Nice brand new looking chip.

EDIT: and by tested I mean s&m short duration @ 100% load. The one I'm using passed @ 2.9GHz on the AV8, and at least 3.0 on this. Based on that I'm betting that one would do 2.9+ on this board. Just so you know I'm pretty sure they came directly from a server, because I bought them from a lot and they each came on a server board(tyan tomcat).


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
So its an Opteron 185 then.

I guess it is, I forgot about the 185. Yeah, if it was a Fx-60, the multi would be unlocked, but since its locked, obviously a opty 185 eng sample. w00t!

I'm still at 220x12 for 2.640ghz right now on the eng sample, but I'm about to switch it out with my CCB1E 0550 Opty 180 and see if this mobo brings her to life. She was tested in my last 939 setup, and on this board BEFORE I fixed the BIOS problem, so wish me luck!

BTW Johnny13oi, I was barely able to get this chip off of you in the first place, so... I'm prolly not gonna sell it.







If I ever did get a bug in my ass to sell it for some reason, I would defiantly sell it back to you for what I paid, but then you'd go and sell it for what its worth, LOL! j/k, IDK what you'd do with it, but rest assured, it aint going anywhere soon.







People can take that as greedy or self centered-ness (w/e the word is) I call it GIMME GIMME! I WANT WANT WANT!


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I finally installed Dirt2 and it is pretty sweet. I do however have a couple problems with it. First I can't use my mouse to navigate about the menus, and secondly I couldn't for the life of me figure out how to exit the game. I had to alt/tab and then ctrl/alt/del to get out of the game.

I feel helpless during all the loading screens....I can't even move my mouse around. I think the loading screens are a little overkill....there should be a simple navigatable menu.










Well, I googled how to exit Dirt2 and then realized how stupid I was being when I found out. But now I don't want to exit....I want to play it all day. My system handles that game well....and noticeably better than when I installed it on XP. My FPS was like 20-25 ish when I tried it on my XP system, and 30-40 avg. easy now.

Ohh my old MS sidewinder FF wheel works as well or better in Dirt2 on Windows 7 than it ever has in anything.







It's not working as well in GTR2 though.


----------



## johnny13oi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*


I guess it is, I forgot about the 185. Yeah, if it was a Fx-60, the multi would be unlocked, but since its locked, obviously a opty 185 eng sample. w00t!

I'm still at 220x12 for 2.640ghz right now on the eng sample, but I'm about to switch it out with my CCB1E 0550 Opty 180 and see if this mobo brings her to life. She was tested in my last 939 setup, and on this board BEFORE I fixed the BIOS problem, so wish me luck!

BTW Johnny13oi, I was barely able to get this chip off of you in the first place, so... I'm prolly not gonna sell it.







If I ever did get a bug in my ass to sell it for some reason, I would defiantly sell it back to you for what I paid, but then you'd go and sell it for what its worth, LOL! j/k, IDK what you'd do with it, but rest assured, it aint going anywhere soon.







People can take that as greedy or self centered-ness (w/e the word is) I call it GIMME GIMME! I WANT WANT WANT!


LOL. Actually I am happy that it stays with you then you selling and profiting massively on it. But if you don't want it anymore .. let me know. I had no idea how valuable the chip was .. but if its place is in your possession I am fine with it. As long as its with someone who can appreciate it. I'm not too sentimental but it was the first I have ever seen like that. I am just trying to get my own hardware off the ground. Damn 4850 died on me lol.


----------



## shortfuse

is it me or opty148 runs better on windows7 ultimate x64?


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shortfuse*


is it me or opty148 runs better on windows7 ultimate x64?


Personally I think that everything is better so far on Windows 7 Ultimate x64. 
I believe the 939 processors have 64-bit architecture, so it makes sense to me that they would do better in a 64-bit environment.

POST# 939..............


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Personally I think that everything is better so far on Windows 7 Ultimate x64. 
I believe the 939 processors have 64-bit architecture, so it makes sense to me that they would do better in a 64-bit environment.

POST# 939..............



























I dunno, I haven't noticed any difference in any games really -- between win7 and XP. If anything, most of my games, which are admittedly slightly older, run without a hitch on XP. I seemed to have so many issues with win7 it wasn't funny.


----------



## ny_driver

I'm wondering if I can give my cpu more voltage somehow?
Here is a BIOS screenshot, and highlighted is a setting I'm not sure what is.
It's set to +1.2v....and it could be set to 1.3, 1.4, or 1.5.
I couldn't find a good explanation in the manual.
Any ideas what this adjusts?

EDIT: My Processor voltage and VCORE overvoltage is maxed b.t.w.


----------



## SwishaMane

ES is holding up at 224x12 for 2.68ghz. I'm waiting to go into 2.7 territory until I am aware of highest stable fsb. Currently benching occt linpack at 228x11 for 2.5ghz. Once I get highest stable fsb, I'll shoot for the stars on the CPU freq.

BTW ny_driver, lower the CPU voltage back to stock and push the highlighted option to 1.5. Should put the chip at 1.5vcore, Id assume. You're BIOS seems wierd, with essestially two cpu voltge options, one must be the VDD.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*


ES is holding up at 224x12 for 2.68ghz. I'm waiting to go into 2.7 territory until I am aware of highest stable fsb. Currently benching occt linpack at 228x11 for 2.5ghz. Once I get highest stable fsb, I'll shoot for the stars on the CPU freq.

BTW ny_driver, lower the CPU voltage back to stock and push the highlighted option to 1.5. Should put the chip at 1.5vcore, Id assume. You're BIOS seems wierd, with essestially two cpu voltge options, one must be the VDD.


That setting doesn't adjust the vcore at all. I just tested with a meter. Hmmm?







Maybe there is another BIOS with higher vcore options. I hope so.


----------



## theCanadian

^ in SwishaMane's post (23142) his second 'paragraph' spans two lines.

When ny_driver quoted it, the second paragraph only spans one line. How is this possible?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I'm wondering if I can give my cpu more voltage somehow? 
Here is a BIOS screenshot, and highlighted is a setting I'm not sure what is. 
It's set to +1.2v....and it could be set to 1.3, 1.4, or 1.5. 
I couldn't find a good explanation in the manual. 
Any ideas what this adjusts?

EDIT: My Processor voltage and VCORE overvoltage is maxed b.t.w.


 I'm going to assume that that setting adjusts the NB voltage since the NB option is right above it. I'd say bump it up one notch and check the voltage using everest.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


^ in SwishaMane's post (23142) his second 'paragraph' spans two lines.

When ny_driver quoted it, the second paragraph only spans one line. How is this possible?











 It's because of the way it formats it. I actually noticed this this morning when I was typing a response. When I hit space after typing a post it dropped half of my sentence in to the next line. But if I didn't hit space after the period it all fit on one line. 
It's just the way it formats it I suppose.


----------



## ny_driver

Bump it up and check what voltage? I tried it all the way up to +1.5v and it didn't effect the vcore at all on the meter or in HWMonitor. I don't know where to check the NB voltage.


----------



## BlackOmega

Didn't the Asus disk come with PC Probe? It's Asus's proprietary hardware monitoring software. My A8N32 sli deluxe had in on the motherboard driver disk. If it doesn't have one (I didn't see it on Asus's site), download Everest Ultimate and it will allow you to check it.


----------



## Blitz6804

It is possible that it is a difference in font size. I think quotes are 10 or 11pt whereas regular text is 12pt. For an experiment:

_This is sample italic text._
Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


This is sample post text


If the word "sample" is the same size in both, my theory is wrong. I am breaking out the ruler right after I post this.

EDIT: It is a difference of italics. In both my post and my quote, it is 42x11 with a 4px gap between words. Non-italics are 46x12 with a 5px gap between words.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


That setting doesn't adjust the vcore at all. I just tested with a meter. Hmmm?







Maybe there is another BIOS with higher vcore options. I hope so.


Sorry bro, was just trying to help based on the fact I can't superposition into your house and adjust it for you, lol. Your mobo must be fubar or something. Even my low line A8NE can adjust into the 1.6 I think... Don't hold me to that tho, I'm new to this mobo. My 939 experience comes from DFI SLi-D, and SLi-DR expert mobos... ****, these 4 lines worth of text turned into 11 lines, OH NOES!!!!


----------



## ny_driver

I don't think there is anything wrong with my board, it just only goes up to 1.6v, which is 1.4v + 200mv in the BIOS. 200mv = .2v I think if I did the math correctly. So my meter reads 1.6v which is exactly what it's set to. That's great I just wish it went higher.


----------



## SwishaMane

Higher then 1.6? Its not a XP 2800+ Barton, jees. LOL







I thought I seen your board was limited to 1.4vcore or something, LOLx2


----------



## ny_driver

It really doesn't get hot. ~60c full load. I'm sure that will drop to about 35-40c full load later on when I install the Swiftech.







good night!


----------



## Obakemono

I have 5 939 cpus, but my prior gamer was a 4200 X2, and the surfing compy I am typing this on has a 3800 X2. I also have a 4000, 3500 & 3000 single cores. All running on Foxconn mobos.










































I have decided to build back up a s939 in my spare case, the 4200 x2 for a folding compy.


----------



## Blitz6804

All we need Obakemono is a CPU-Z of any CPUs you want registered on the roster.

ny_driver: Yes, 0.200 V = 200 mV.


----------



## SwishaMane

Hey guys, do you know what the TMPIN2 thermal diode may be for? Its getting really hot under load on this 939 mobo, and I think it caused the error I got 40 mins+ into my 240x11 run last night. I think its the northbridge, or NF4 chip, but not sure, fan is functional and hot, but not 80C hot you know. And PSU is fine, barely any heat coming off it. Heres a screenie under load... It shows it at 73C, but as you can see, it goes up to 80, mostly 73-77C.

If there's anything else someone might see wrong, lemme know. I just added an intake fan to my case's side panel for flow, but it's not affecting the, what I assume is, NB temp.


----------



## Blitz6804

I almost want to say it is the PWMs. Do you have a tower-style cooler?


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
I almost want to say it is the PWMs. Do you have a tower-style cooler?

Yeah, xiggy 1282? Something like that off memory... ultra kaze 3k 38mm fan 102% speed... lol

Case is toasty, but top vent and side fan are helping, temp on that sensor still 70C+...

PWMs, do you mean the VRMs? CPU power source? I was thinking that too. I researched the board a bit, turns out this revision A8Ne had a bad chipset fan with my type symptoms... Gonna give this board a big re-haul after successful 1hr occt linpack which is done...

...

...

now... I'll report back with new chipset cooler and some surface mount self-adhesive ram coolers Im gonna stick around the mobo...

I got me eye on a DFI SLi-DR mobo too... NOT expert version, for a reason... This board ain't gonna cut it long term...

EDIT: Temps drop QUICK also when load is off, that makes me think NB too.

EDIT #2: Ok, I pulled mobo out and replace the stock chipset fan with my $6 modded Vantec. As you can see in screenie, temps are dropped, but not much, enough to keep rig going probably. Chipset hasnt touched 70C yet, but under 100% load its knocking at the door. I also added 5 self adhesive RAM sinks around random ICs and voltage regs. around the mobo, can't hurt.

BTW, OCCT linpack just errored around 15 mins in at 240x11, so 238-239 id my max fsb for this mobo, chip was only 2.640ghz, and has been 2.688 ghz 1 hour stable just last night, so it was memory error.


----------



## Blitz6804

For fun, do you have an 80mm or similar fan just sitting around to throw onto the PWM/VRMs near the socket?


----------



## Menace

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Menace* 
Good to hear, keep us posted. I recently retired my S939 rig (x2 3800+ @ 2.4Ghz).

Well after building my current system. I gave my old E2180 to my parents and got back my S939 rig as they don't have use for 2 computers. Now that I got this bad boy back I think I'm going to aim for 2.7. Although I believe my ECS KN1 Extreme will hold back whatever overclock I can get. Last time I checked it would only boot at 2.57ghz. I'll get to the overclocking on the weekend though.


----------



## pioneerisloud

TMPIN2 is the reading that was over 110*C on my AM2+ Gigabyte board, right before it caught fire. I'd check your NB and your VRM's, and ensure that they're running cool







.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
TMPIN2 is the reading that was over 110*C on my AM2+ Gigabyte board, right before it caught fire. I'd check your NB and your VRM's, and ensure that they're running cool







.

Holy shi........110C







No wonder your board fried. Speaking of which, did you get an RMA approved?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SwishaMane* 
Hey guys, do you know what the TMPIN2 thermal diode may be for? Its getting really hot under load on this 939 mobo, and I think it caused the error I got 40 mins+ into my 240x11 run last night. I think its the northbridge, or NF4 chip, but not sure, fan is functional and hot, but not 80C hot you know. And PSU is fine, barely any heat coming off it. Heres a screenie under load... It shows it at 73C, but as you can see, it goes up to 80, mostly 73-77C.

If there's anything else someone might see wrong, lemme know. I just added an intake fan to my case's side panel for flow, but it's not affecting the, what I assume is, NB temp.

I'm thinkin it's the VRM'S, I know with the tower style cooler [Xiggy DK] on my DFI ultra-d with VRM[PWM] wouldn't get sufficient airflow, so I had to mount a spare fan in my case and point it toward that heat sink/ top of my GPU and that brought temps down pretty well.

I also lapped one of ultra-d heatsinks [I have 2 of them] and it brought the NB temps down 10C. Well worth it IMO.


----------



## ny_driver

Well, I finally have some pictures of the new system. I'm sure you all have been dying to see it








I installed the Swiftech today. What do you think? Not bad for the first w/c system, huh? No leaks, but a couple spills while filling the system for a test run...not hooked to anything of course.
I'm proud to say that I came up with the side mounted radiator on my own.

I ran s&m once @ 3GHz/1.6v and the max temps were 55/48. I may try to re-seat the waterblock with less OCZ Freeze. The cores used to max out @ the same temp. Idle temps are 26/22c and ambient is about 20-21c.


----------



## nategr8ns

Looks swell







. I love how neat it is inside. Unfortunately, you never get to see how neat because you don't have a window







.


----------



## 420Assassin

UpDated my rig with a dual core if u wanted to update my stuff http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1158096


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
Looks swell







. I love how neat it is inside. Unfortunately, you never get to see how neat because you don't have a window







.

Simple to fix though...


----------



## ny_driver

Next rig, I'm actually going to BUY a case. So I'm sure it will have windows, and I'm pretty sure it will be liquid cooled also. This one is ready to do the job for awhile though.









EDIT: I tried 3.1GHz/259 x 12, windows barely runs and crashes after a few. I don't see any point in trying to get higher than 3GHz if I can't get at least 3.1GHz....ohh well 3GHz is good. Maybe I'll have to try out this chips twin brother again(the weaker twin I think)


----------



## BlackOmega

Looks good ny_driver.







That case isn't that bad lookin either. Definitely has a unique shape to it.

Out ofcuriosity, did you check the contact base for flatness?


----------



## Obakemono

I updated my post with CPUz pics and other pics.


----------



## Blitz6804

Alrighty, I've bookmarked your post. I really have to get around to updating the off-site roster. I will poke txtmstrjoe as well.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Looks good ny_driver.







That case isn't that bad lookin either. Definitely has a unique shape to it.

Out ofcuriosity, did you check the contact base for flatness?


Nope, I didn't check it. I probably should. I haven't lapped my CPU either. It looked flat and had a nice mirror finish when I took the plastic off and cleaned it with 91% alcohol and coffee filter. Not bad for a free case. I forgot about the lights I had in my other case.....gotta get them in there pronto...........


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Alrighty, I've bookmarked your post. I really have to get around to updating the off-site roster. I will poke txtmstrjoe as well.


Mine says I have an Oteron 170 @ 3GHz. I'd like it to list my current 180. Ohh, but that's the on-site roster. Where is this off-site roster anyways. I know I've seen it before.









EDIT: oops on the double post.


----------



## Blitz6804

As linked on the first post, the url is http://939.vze.com.


----------



## ny_driver

Ohhh geez, I forgot I had the only running nForce3.....I guess I could resurrect it, but it's only getting my 3500+.


----------



## Blitz6804

My nForce3 is sitting in the garage without CPU or RAM, meaning you have the only operational one.


----------



## SwishaMane

Just wanted to update everyone interested. My ES just completed a 1 hour occt linpack at 225x12 for 2.7ghz. Gonna try 228x12 for 2.736ghz in the morning. Slowly but surely...


----------



## N2Gaming

Damb this is a good deal.

*[Steam] Codemasters racing pack - $17.50 Steam Weekend deal*

Dirt, Dirt2, Grid, Fuel and Toca3 for $17.00 or you can buy them individually dirt cheap


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Damb this is a good deal.

*[Steam] Codemasters racing pack - $17.50 Steam Weekend deal*

Dirt, Dirt2, Grid, Fuel and Toca3 for $17.00 or you can buy them individually dirt cheap









I swear I'm destined _not_ to get Dirt 2. I just paid rent and 2 tickets I got and my account is bone dry.









Any idea as to when it ends?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I swear I'm destined _not_ to get Dirt 2. I just paid rent and 2 tickets I got and my account is bone dry.









Any idea as to when it ends?

Sunday @ 11:59 PST


----------



## ny_driver

I used to play Toca Race driver 2 and it was a fun game. I'm definitely buying these games....I'm going to get Fuel, Grid and Toca 3. Thanks for the link N2.


----------



## SwishaMane

Hey guys, here's a cpu-z of me testing new highest CPU freq. OC so far, and messing with my new Corsair Samsung Tccd's I finally got off Nagoshi after like forever... Rig errored as I was typing this, JUST NOW, before I am uploading the cpu-z... ugh

Anyway, I think the chip or the motherboard is limited to 240mhz DRAM freq. Maybe even 239, altogether. I can run 238x11 for 2.613ghz, 1 hour stable, but not 240. I can run 10 minute longer occt linpacks at 232 (to 238 range I assume), but 1 minute in at 240, error. I think this board is junk. I'm gonna try a hot bios flash to get this chip to take original bios, (that's a long story from this morning.) Im currently in market for new motherboard for this chip, I was thinking a DFI nF4 Ultra, non sli-sli-dr... Good ole fashioned... ghetto rigged fans, volt mods, modded bios, etc...







Aw chyuh...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SwishaMane* 
Hey guys, here's a cpu-z of me testing new highest CPU freq. OC so far, and messing with my new Corsair Samsung Tccd's I finally got off Nagoshi after like forever... Rig errored as I was typing this, JUST NOW, before I am uploading the cpu-z... ugh

Anyway, I think the chip or the motherboard is limited to 240mhz DRAM freq. Maybe even 239, altogether. I can run 238x11 for 2.613ghz, 1 hour stable, but not 240. I can run 10 minute longer occt linpacks at 232 (to 238 range I assume), but 1 minute in at 240, error. I think this board is junk. I'm gonna try a hot bios flash to get this chip to take original bios, (that's a long story from this morning.) Im currently in market for new motherboard for this chip, I was thinking a DFI nF4 Ultra, non sli-sli-dr... Good ole fashioned... ghetto rigged fans, volt mods, modded bios, etc...







Aw chyuh...

This might just be a really stupid question.....

But why don't you just drop your RAM divider down another notch and see if that's the problem?


----------



## SwishaMane

That would decrease my DRAM freq. even more... I thought I was going for stable cpu and dram freq. vs rated fsb?

These DDR550 should run at 275 dram freq. not 275 fsb, right?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*


That would decrease my DRAM freq. even more... I thought I was going for stable cpu and dram freq. vs rated fsb?

These DDR550 should run at 275 dram freq. not 275 fsb, right?


If they are in fact DDR550, then yes. However you also need to account the CPU's memory controller into play. If your memory controller can't handle DDR550, then your DDR550 sticks will never see that high.

My personal Corsair XMS sticks can hit DDR533 100% stable @ 2.5-3-3-6-1T timings (each set). But since I've got 4 in there, I'm running them much lower because my memory controller just can't handle running them that high. You might be having the same issue with only 2 sticks.


----------



## SwishaMane

Its motherboard or CPU related. That's one reason I'm interested in a new board, to test it for memory controller limits.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*


Its motherboard or CPU related. That's one reason I'm interested in a new board, to test it for memory controller limits.


Your memory controller has nothing to do with the motherboard though, its all in the CPU.


----------



## godofdeath

lapped my cpu today, not perfect, scratches on it left don't know why,
will try to post pics when i can


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Your memory controller has nothing to do with the motherboard though, its all in the CPU.


Don't tell me that! I CANT HEAR YOU, LA LA LA. j/k, I kind of feared that. We will see for sure when I make up my mind on a new mobo. Can anyone point me int he right direction. Something I can hack and mod, real good OC'er? Mebbe even older platform, but I need pci-e, no extra agp cards, last one being used, all I have is my 8800gts.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


lapped my cpu today, not perfect, scratches on it left don't know why,
will try to post pics when i can


Snap a shot...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*


Don't tell me that! I CANT HEAR YOU, LA LA LA. j/k, I kind of feared that. We will see for sure when I make up my mind on a new mobo. Can anyone point me int he right direction. Something I can hack and mod, real good OC'er? Mebbe even older platform, but I need pci-e, no extra agp cards, last one being used, all I have is my 8800gts.

Snap a shot...


Pretty much any board that has an NF4 chipset should suffice. DFI LP Ultra D and the SLI model are definitely some of the best. Asus A8N32-SLI Deluxe, Abit AT8 and AN8 series are also great. Even the generic NF4 boards (eVGA and Jetway come to mind) are also decent. I've also had an MSI NF4 SLI board, and it was superb.


----------



## ny_driver

Well, unfortunately my CPU is not as tough as I thought it was...or I should say S&M is not as tough as I thought it was. 
Anyways I ran prime95 @ 3GHz and it failed immediately.....I tried 2.9GHz and it failed in about 10 minutes. I ran 2.8GHz when I went to bed, but the system shut itself down after 2.5 hours. This stinks only 2.8Ghz stable...I'm going to have to try out my other Opty. Apparently Dirt2 pushes the CPU pretty hard, because I have never had it lock up before @ 3GHz running GTR2.
I was using a 133 memory divider, so I'm pretty sure it's the CPU.


----------



## SwishaMane

Sweet, A64Info pulled up some extra info on my ES, check it out. 90nm, Toledo, JH9-E6...

EDIT: Sweet, rig just passed 1 hour OCCT Linpack again on new tccds, 238x12 for 2.856ghz, new highest stable OC! Check cpu-z.

I switched them to the first two dual channel slots since they are low profile enough to fit under horizontally mounted Xiggy cooler. Rig seems to be performing better in first channel.









EDIT #2: Ok, ES just passed 1 hour OCCT at 240x11 for first time. I think switching RAM slots was way to go.







I'm about to start up 30 min passes again til I fail, and go for highest stable CPU freq. and DRAM freq. I'm hoping for 275x11, but LOL, doubt.


----------



## SwishaMane

kk, I got 240x12 last night for 2.880ghz, right? Well, I passed a 30 min occt at 242x11, and it was great. Ran it at 242x12 for 2.907ghz, and error like 15 mins in. Try again this morning after letting rig rest, with increased vcore, only 15 mins stable. I'm at 224x13 for 2.914ghz now, and I'm already 25 mins stable. This chip or mobo, (most likely chip, thanks to pioneerisloud, pfft) is maxing out in the 240-242 range depending on cpu freq. My highest stable OC on this chip will be low fsb, 13x related, or highest fsb (240) x 12 most likely. I'm still going for highest cPU freq, while keeping fsb in range system has proven to be stable, so I got room to work. Just disappointed in max fsb on this chip. We'll see with new mobo eventually, just to make sure it's not mobo related SOMEHOW.

EDIT: Rig just passed 1 hour linpack at 2.914ghz, w00t. Obviously something is going on at 240-242. I'm gonna bump it up to 226 and see whats up, lol...


----------



## Blitz6804

For sake of argument, you really should try dropping the memory divider. If it does clock higher then, you just need better-operating RAM.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
For sake of argument, you really should try dropping the memory divider. If it does clock higher then, you just need better-operating RAM.

I'm currently only going for highest stable cpu freq. which is allowing me to stay low on fsb, anything under 240 is stable up to 2.880ghz already, so thats why I'm sticking low with 224+ x 13 for 2.9+ type clocks til it fails. Then I'll adjust everything accordingly. I WILL be going more in depth on OCs, including lower divider once I find a max stable cpu freq. That is important regardless the divider, and is a constant. If the chip is maxed at 2.96ghz, and wont budge past that, stability wise, why would a lower divider help in that? Understand? I will go for higher fsb speeds with lower divider once I work out highest stable CPU freq. And so far, this chip just keeps going...







I believe now, that I'm 2.9+, that I've reached the end of my journey almost. I think this chip is gonna crash at 2.96 or so, I'll be one lucky sonbi*** if it gets 3ghz 1hour linpack stable...


----------



## SwishaMane

Jeez, it's like I brought this thread to a halt, I seem to be the only one every on.







Well, I like updating my status even tho barely anyone reads it, keeps me busy.

Currently testing 228x13 for 2.964ghz. I snapped a couple screens of the bios settings OC related, in case anyone sees anything interesting, or notices my math on the timings is wrong. Especially trc and trfc. I know those are based off adding two other timings together. Anyway, screens are named backward, and taken when I was testing 242, but other than that... basically how it is.


----------



## Kryton

No, you haven't killed this thread. I don't believe it possible unless a mod does it.

I've been following your progress with the ES and it's doing great for what it is. 
Been following your progress with it across a few places here and there (BTW, I'm Bones







) and good work staying with it. 
Temps are OK as you are running it now right?

+1 rep for tenacity.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I've been following your progress as well. You haven't killed this thread yet







. I'm just too lazy to post.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*


Jeez, it's like I brought this thread to a halt, I seem to be the only one every on.







Well, I like updating my status even tho barely anyone reads it, keeps me busy.

Currently testing 228x13 for 2.964ghz. I snapped a couple screens of the bios settings OC related, in case anyone sees anything interesting, or notices my math on the timings is wrong. Especially trc and trfc. I know those are based off adding two other timings together. Anyway, screens are named backward, and taken when I was testing 242, but other than that... basically how it is.


I've been keeping tabs on you... was going to congratulate you once you maxed it. You're getting close. I think you can hit 3Ghz. Good luck. If you need a board that can handle that kind of FSB, my PURE is usually just sitting around, its not my main rig. If you want to test it on this board I'd be willing, you pay to ship it to me, I pay to ship it back. I have to OC my own chip for real though first.


----------



## SwishaMane

2.990 is next! Just added a 80mm fan in top of case for exhaust.

I'm trying to stay on top of testing this chip, but trying not to kill the mobo in the process, although getting to know this chip on this board will help me keep my new one alive long as possible. Especially if I don't need to 1 hour bench every 2 - 3 hours. Ive been trying to give the rig some time off in between. Seems to help a bit, new fan is removing hot air efficiently too. Chip has seen 69C max so far for a sec or two, eesh.


----------



## Kryton

I'm assuming you're on air with it now and will continue to run it that way for your testing.

H2O would lower your temps and believe that's one thing holding it up. Of course you could send it here and I'd test it with my DFI Expert and it's WC'ing.























How do you think I got 3.4+ GHZ from my X2 and one of my 4000+ Sandies?

Improve your cooling if it starts to look like you're getting nowhere.


----------



## SwishaMane

I'm looking into it.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*


Jeez, it's like I brought this thread to a halt, I seem to be the only one every on.







Well, I like updating my status even tho barely anyone reads it, keeps me busy.

Currently testing 228x13 for 2.964ghz. I snapped a couple screens of the bios settings OC related, in case anyone sees anything interesting, or notices my math on the timings is wrong. Especially trc and trfc. I know those are based off adding two other timings together. Anyway, screens are named backward, and taken when I was testing 242, but other than that... basically how it is.


 Not sure what the formula is for DDR, but for DDR3 I usually follow this:

CL + tRCD + tRP = tRAS; then tRAS + tRP = tRC.

And you haven't brought this thread to a halt, it's just some of us are busy or too lazy to post.







I've been both to tell you honestly.

OT: I just bought Dirt 2 fellas, lemme know when you all wanna get together and fly around the tracks.


----------



## SwishaMane

3.016ghz failed like 35 mins in. I'll give rig break til tomorrow. Peace!


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
OT: I just bought Dirt 2 fellas, lemme know when you all wanna get together and fly around the tracks.









I'm around all week so let me know.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
I'm around all week so let me know.









89% downloaded at the moment.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
89% downloaded at the moment.









I don't have DiRT 2







. I wish I did though







.


----------



## SwishaMane

I've still got my free Dirt2 key, mebbe I'll DL that on my main rig when I'm done with 939 for awhile. I hate switching cables back and forth... lol

EDIT: Got 3.016ghz to pass 1 hour this morning, but not 3.04ghz,







. I'm reaching the end of what this mob / PSU / cooler will allow me to go. Thats why i got a new 750 silverstone PSU on the way, looking into modding a H50 to mount on 939, and still can't find the Ultra-D I want...


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I don't have DiRT 2







. I wish I did though







.


 You should get it. It's really fun, although I've figured out why on the demo's they say that it doesn't represent the finished product. The vehicle setup portion has been really dumbed down. Rather than having specific adjustments,such as final drive gearing, and each individual dear it a generic Long/ short gear preset. That's kind of disappointing, I really liked that aspect about the demo. Reminded me of GT and GT2. Oh well at least Dirt 1 still has those features available.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*


I've still got my free Dirt2 key, mebbe I'll DL that on my main rig when I'm done with 939 for awhile. I hate switching cables back and forth... lol

EDIT: Got 3.016ghz to pass 1 hour this morning, but not 3.04ghz,







. I'm reaching the end of what this mob / PSU / cooler will allow me to go. Thats why i got a new 750 silverstone PSU on the way, looking into modding a H50 to mount on 939, and* still can't find the Ultra-D I want*...


 I have 2 SLI modded Ultra-D's. What's the criteria that you're looking for in a board?


----------



## ny_driver

Hmmmmm...I haven't even looked into setting up the cars. I do however think Dirt2 is pretty much the best, most realistic, and fun feeling racing game I've tried so far. Not that I've by any means tried them all, but I know the graphics are great, the force feedback is great, and I find myself playing it until 2-3 in the morning.









Off Topic: I just installed a 6500 BTU Frigidaire A/C 3 feet from my computer. 
I ran 1 run of S&M and the max temps were 43/38c, although only @ 2.82GHz and 1.5v. I'm sure I'll have to try going for 2.9 again......maybe the 12 degree drop in temps will allow me to go a little higher. I doubt it, but I'll let you know.









EDIT: FYI.....I bought Grid, (Toca3, and Fuel), but haven't installed any of them yet.


----------



## Blitz6804

Just so you know, at least as of a few hours ago, FUEL is broken. They ran out of product keys, so attempts to play the game fail. They should have keys again within a week they are hoping.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
Hmmmmm...I haven't even looked into setting up the cars. I do however think Dirt2 is pretty much the best, most realistic, and fun feeling racing game I've tried so far. Not that I've by any means tried them all, but I know the graphics are great, the force feedback is great, and I find myself playing it until 2-3 in the morning.









Off Topic: I just installed a 6500 BTU Frigidaire A/C 3 feet from my computer.
I ran 1 run of S&M and the max temps were 43/38c, although only @ 2.82GHz and 1.5v. I'm sure I'll have to try going for 2.9 again......maybe the 12 degree drop in temps will allow me to go a little higher. I doubt it, but I'll let you know.









EDIT: FYI.....I bought Grid, (Toca3, and Fuel), but haven't installed any of them yet.

Ever since I played Gran Turismo (1), I've really liked being able to set the cars up. I usually set them considerably different than most generic presets, and wind up breaking records because my cars simply drive better.

In the Dirt2 demo I was able to set the cars up in such a way that no matter how bad the vehicle stats were, I could always make it better and make it "bite" in to the road surface, whereas with the presets, no matter how I set it, especially with the F150 trophy truck, it slides around like it's on ice.









But the rest of the game isn't bad at all. Although I do find myself disliking those breaktrough style races, I don't follow typical lines either (I think that's maybe why Blitz says I like running in to people (I don't, they just happen to be in my line)).

We all need to get together and race it up.









EDIT: Install Grid and Dirt 1, they're very similar to Dirt 2 except in Grid you're racing on the street with all sorts of different cars (LeMans, Openwheel, Drift, Togue,). Dirt 1 actually seems more comprehensive now that I think about it, it's got not only rally, Raid T1/3, Baja, but it's also got hillclimb events and the best SEMI'S!!!


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Ever since I played Gran Turismo (1), I've really liked being able to set the cars up. I usually set them considerably different than most generic presets, and wind up breaking records because my cars simply drive better.

In the Dirt2 demo I was able to set the cars up in such a way that no matter how bad the vehicle stats were, I could always make it better and make it "bite" in to the road surface, whereas with the presets, no matter how I set it, especially with the F150 trophy truck, it slides around like it's on ice.









But the rest of the game isn't bad at all. Although I do find myself disliking those breaktrough style races, I don't follow typical lines either (I think that's maybe why Blitz says I like running in to people (I don't, they just happen to be in my line)).

We all need to get together and race it up.









EDIT: Install Grid and Dirt 1, they're very similar to Dirt 2 except in Grid you're racing on the street with all sorts of different cars (LeMans, Openwheel, Drift, Togue,). Dirt 1 actually seems more comprehensive now that I think about it, it's got not only rally, Raid T1/3, Baja, but it's also got hillclimb events and the best SEMI'S!!!










You guys have to let me know if you do Grid. I can tear some Grid up on a good day.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


You guys have to let me know if you do Grid. I can tear some Grid up on a good day.


We play GRID almost every night







.


----------



## theCanadian

I need to collect some Steam names then...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 
I need to collect some Steam names then...

I could have SWORN you already had me on steam.....

Pioneerisloud is my SN EVERYWHERE







.


----------



## bodunchar

Hello hello
I would like to shell out for some of this on an ASUS A8N SLI SE AMD Athlon 64 3000+ @2.5

http://www.corsair.com/configurator/...s.aspx?id=9663

Details for CMC2GX1M2A400C3

Memory Type
DDR-400 (XMS-3200C2)

Size
2GB Kit (2 x 1GB)

Latency
2-3-3-6

Voltage
2.75v

Format
184-pin DIMM

Heat Spreader
Platinum

but before I do, is it compatible? They say it is but I thought I would ask you guys too, as I have to order and have my brother send it to me in a roundabout fashion half way across the globe...

Peace and thanks!!!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bodunchar* 
Hello hello
I would like to shell out for some of this on an ASUS A8N SLI SE AMD Athlon 64 3000+ @2.5

http://www.corsair.com/configurator/...s.aspx?id=9663

Details for CMC2GX1M2A400C3

Memory Type
DDR-400 (XMS-3200C2)

Size
2GB Kit (2 x 1GB)

Latency
2-3-3-6

Voltage
2.75v

Format
184-pin DIMM

Heat Spreader
Platinum

but before I do, is it compatible? They say it is but I thought I would ask you guys too, as I have to order and have my brother send it to me in a roundabout fashion half way across the globe...

Peace and thanks!!!

Yes it is DEFINITELY compatible. Corsair RAM and Asus boards (in my experience) go quite well together. I wouldn't spend $100 on a 2GB kit though if I were you. I'd check around the forums and see what you come up with. I saw a kit of Crucial (value) DDR400 for $45 shipped earlier this evening (2x1GB kit).


----------



## theCanadian

@bodunchar

I'm running this in Second Life. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820145579

I'm sure you can find them used for less though. They were only $20 back in the day.

Apparently, this kit is well known for having a respectable percentage of 'golden chips'. A lot of times it does DDR500 at stock timings. As you can see in my sig rig, I have one of these such kits. Only thing I did was add ($2) heatspreaders. But I'm told you don't even need to do that.


----------



## Blitz6804

Unless you are pushing past 2.9 V, heat spreaders are usually not needed.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 
You guys have to let me know if you do Grid. I can tear some Grid up on a good day.

Lets do it!







Although, I usually don't have time to play until pretty late (EST) because of the kids and whatnot. I'll PM you my steam name.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *bodunchar* 
Hello hello
I would like to shell out for some of this on an ASUS A8N SLI SE AMD Athlon 64 3000+ @2.5

http://www.corsair.com/configurator/...s.aspx?id=9663

Details for CMC2GX1M2A400C3

Memory Type
DDR-400 (XMS-3200C2)

Size
2GB Kit (2 x 1GB)

Latency
2-3-3-6

Voltage
2.75v

Format
184-pin DIMM

Heat Spreader
Platinum

but before I do, is it compatible? They say it is but I thought I would ask you guys too, as I have to order and have my brother send it to me in a roundabout fashion half way across the globe...

Peace and thanks!!!

Yes that RAM works fine with Asus boards. However, I do have 2 sets of these Corsair XMS (Xtreme memory speed) platinum's. Private message me if you're interested.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Lets do it!







Although, I usually don't have time to play until pretty late (EST) because of the kids and whatnot. I'll PM you my steam name.









I'll play late EST....pm me about when is good. EDIT: oohhh I better install it first. I was thinking of Dirt2.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
I'll play late EST....pm me about when is good. EDIT: oohhh I better install it first. I was thinking of Dirt2.

Lol in dirt 2 I'm advancing at an average rate of 4 levels an hour.









You'll like GRID, it's a decent game. And if you haven't also install Dirt 1, that's a cool one too. And for the most part, they all drive similarly. Except in Dirt 1 where you can change the settings.









Add me in steam, i'll be sure to turn on my friends thing. It keeps logging me out.







I'll have to check my settings.


----------



## Blitz6804

As I often have school the next day, I can only usually play until around 1-2 am EDT. Once school is out, my schedule might loosen up a bit depending how bar studies go.

For all who purchased FUEL: they have keys again, the game should work now.


----------



## ny_driver

Do you guys think it's possible that Dirt2 could stress my Opteron more than prime95?









Dirt2 froze up @ 2.8GHz a couple days ago, but I ran prime for 8 hours last night @ 255 x 11 w/ my Mushkin @ DDR510 (which btw test out on this board














) Max temps of 52/46c.
I raced last night though @ those settings and had no problems, the cards were OC to 900/1000. And with everything on in Dirt2 @ the highest available settings, and everything in cat 10.4 on high(16x/16x vsync and everything enabled).....I get an average of ~31 FPS. It's almost like a movie. It's great.

Weird how I would get higher 3dmark scores on my XP system, but only about 20 FPS average in Dirt2......and on this Windows 7 rig I get ~1000 points less, but way better FPS.









AFTERTHOUGHT:I think that the reason it crashed @ 2.8GHz is because I was being stingy with the voltage. I lowered vcore over-voltage when I lowered my OC so it was set to only give it +100mv instead of the +200 I had been giving it.

I think I'll try installing GRID today. And I am very much looking forward to F1 2010








Downloading GRID now...BO and Pio added to friends list...I'll be there tonight.


----------



## Blitz6804

theCanadian / ny_driver: Why does no-one add meee? (;_


----------



## Blitz6804

In other news: everyone please remember the 2010 Chimp Challenge stars in about five hours. Even if you do not usually fold (which you should) please consider helping OCN out for a few days (hours?) to help out those with cancer, Alzheimer, Parkinson, and other diseases.

For those of you who do not know, my Grandfather has been in and out of the hospital since March due to a staphylococcus infection he obtained from a surgery to remove some cancer. If we could cure cancer, or at least help discover a better way to deal with it, we would stop people like him suffering in the long run.


----------



## ny_driver

Sorry I didn't mean to exclude you sir. Blitz6804 and theCanadian have also been added now.


----------



## N2Gaming

I'll add my new steam friends request when I see you in the races.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


In other news: everyone please remember the 2010 Chimp Challenge stars in about five hours. Even if you do not usually fold (which you should) please consider helping OCN out for a few days (hours?) to help out those with cancer, Alzheimer, Parkinson, and other diseases.

For those of you who do not know, my Grandfather has been in and out of the hospital since March due to a staphylococcus infection he obtained from a surgery to remove some cancer. If we could cure cancer, or at least help discover a better way to deal with it, we would stop people like him suffering in the long run.


Check again. I did. TartRedArrow is my logon. [OCN] theCanadian is my name.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


In other news: everyone please remember the 2010 Chimp Challenge stars in about five hours. Even if you do not usually fold (which you should) please consider helping OCN out for a few days (hours?) to help out those with cancer, Alzheimer, Parkinson, and other diseases.

For those of you who do not know, my Grandfather has been in and out of the hospital since March due to a staphylococcus infection he obtained from a surgery to remove some cancer. If we could cure cancer, or at least help discover a better way to deal with it, we would stop people like him suffering in the long run.


 Got all 4 of my GSO's going. Maybe I should set up 8 SMP clients too.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Got all 4 of my GSO's going. Maybe I should set up 8 SMP clients too.










Yeah maybe you should stop helping the rivals... j/k but every bit helps right... We are getting are buts handed to us just like we did to them last year... I'm so sad over it... I wanted to wear a CC badge in my sig... Maybe I should do some smp folding also...


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


Check again. I did. TartRedArrow is my logon. [OCN] theCanadian is my name.


I had no invite; I did send one to you though now.
Quote:



The points have been reset to zero and the sprint to 20 million is sure to be a grueling battle with plently of hardware casualties over the next few weeks!


Weeks? The teams are already to 6 million in 18 hours? (From http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/chimp_challenge/)


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Yeah maybe you should stop helping the rivals... j/k but every bit helps right... We are getting are buts handed to us just like we did to them last year... I'm so sad over it... I wanted to wear a CC badge in my sig... Maybe I should do some smp folding also...











If you'll notice, my chimp challenge in my sig says "champions" and not "participant". We beat them last year.

Edit: Ah. I had misread.


----------



## Blitz6804

What N2 had said is that we are getting our butts handed to us, just like what we did to them last year.


----------



## BlackOmega

It's not surprising that Evga is handing us our ass. They have a much larger active user base. They are, by far, the largest producer these days.

OT: Blit you ever read that PM I sent you about the burden of proof?


----------



## Blitz6804

I am putting out as many PPD as my hardware physically can. (A measly 8000 PPD {;_;} or so.) We have won every Chimp Challenge we have entered and this one should be no exception. Come on 939ers; pull for your team!


----------



## theCanadian

Unfortunately, I could not get home to set up my sig rig for the challenge, so I have an 8800GT, a 8800GTS, and two dual cores not folding for the team right now.









Edit. Palindrome post: 3443


----------



## Blitz6804

Remote access software... for the win?


----------



## ny_driver

OK I am now folding on both GPUs. Working on protein it says. 
I didn't have to start folding by a certain deadline to help with the challenge did I?


----------



## Blitz6804

Nope. Any WUs started after noon, PDT on May 5 count towards the 20-million point goal. Did you use GPU-Z to check that your GPUs are both getting worked and not one GPU doing both? That can occasionally happen if you made a slight oversight in the config.


----------



## ny_driver

Co_oL....glad I can help. GPUZ says both GPUs are being ~66% utilized. Both CPU cores are running ~98-100%. The system seems to be running fine. What happens when it gets to 100% completed. Can I stop for awhile and race some? I'll let it fold all night at least until Monday when I go back to work. I guess I could leave it running while I am away, I'll have to think about it.

EDIT: how do I get the little "I fold for OCN" icon at the bottom of my posts?


----------



## Blitz6804

If you used the -oneunit tag, it will close the client. If not, it will keep folding until you close it or until it encounters an error. You can stop folding at any time and when you run the client again it will pick up where it left off. (As long as you are within the deadline; GPU units tend to have a deadline of 2-3 days.)

The Postbit you can get by folding under your own name for team 37726, and getting a team rank of 1500 or better. You have to sign up at that point. I will send you the specifics after the Chimp Challenge is over.


----------



## ny_driver

I could throw together another folding rig in a few minutes. How's this sound.....abit av8/single channel opty 170/x1950pro_512/2GB memory? Do I need to have internet connection to each machine all the time?


----------



## Blitz6804

Would not fold well at all. Your only option would be using the Opteron in SMP. GPUs older than the HD 2xxx cannot GPU fold.


----------



## ny_driver

I sure am glad I asked before I did it.







Ohh well.....2 GPUs going is good enough for the 1st day folding.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I wish I could join. But since my internet is only on "sometimes" I find that its worthless to even try







. That and the risk of fire is so great...no thanks.


----------



## ny_driver

I always get a good laugh when you talk about fires. I had a VRM catch right on fire on a Neo2 platinum a few months ago, I had to mush the fire out with the tip of my finger. I'm pretty sure I caused the ignition with the tip of my multimeter. I wish I had time to take a picture of it. The board still worked fine afterwards, too. I'm sure something wasn't right, but nothing noticeable.


----------



## BlackOmega

Well I've got 4 GPU's and 1 SMP on my i7 going. Hopefully that'll add some needed points.


----------



## Blitz6804

Must be working BlackOmega:

At the update, they had 695,585; we had 753,280. They still have 2,680,674 on us though.


----------



## Blitz6804

I do not know how others are faring, but I am very happy the heat broke here. On the fifth (when we started) it was around 82Âº F; my A/C kept coming on almost constantly. Now it is down to 58Âº F outside, so I can just keep the door cracked and all is good.

28 WUs down... an unknown number to go...

(BlackOmega has likely chewed through those same 28 in half the time; nVidia cards and i7s are monsters!)


----------



## N2Gaming

I just woke up and two of my 8600GTS cards eue'd and paused for a while during sleep. I got em going again no problem and I'm hopeing they don't keep overheating. I'm thinking heat related issues is why they were eue'n.


----------



## Blitz6804

Easiest way to tell is to leave GPUz running in the background. Have it set all the temps to display "max." If it EUEs, you will know how hot they got and it might give you an idea of why.


----------



## N2Gaming

I have everest open atm watching temps

edit: one of them just eue'd again w/my temp at 69

I'm beginning to wonder if my power supply could be the problem...


----------



## Blitz6804

Both possible and probable. Power fluctuations could cause early unit ends. To lessen the load on your PSU, try decreasing the GPU clock, and if it still EUEs, start cutting back the shader clock. (Both draw power, but the shader clock is more important to folding, which is part of the reason ATi cards fold so poorly.)


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Must be working BlackOmega:

At the update, they had 695,585; we had 753,280. They still have 2,680,674 on us though.


 Awesome! Yeah they got the 2mil right out of the gate. They must've had a lot of people time it. It was a pretty substantial point difference between them and most other teams.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


I do not know how others are faring, but I am very happy the heat broke here. On the fifth (when we started) it was around 82Âº F; my A/C kept coming on almost constantly. Now it is down to 58Âº F outside, so I can just keep the door cracked and all is good.

28 WUs down... an unknown number to go...

(BlackOmega has likely chewed through those same 28 in half the time; nVidia cards and i7s are monsters!)


 It's sad that my GSO's get more PPD than my 4870's, not to mention temps are great on these GSO's as well. Folding away @ 100% they're at 64 and 66C. Hell even my i7 folding away right now doesn't get past 55C, and it's been folding since ......about 6:30 pm yesterday.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I just woke up and two of my 8600GTS cards eue'd and paused for a while during sleep. I got em going again no problem and I'm hopeing they don't keep overheating. I'm thinking heat related issues is why they were eue'n.










 N2 if they're overclocked, put them back to stock. Getting credit for something is better than getting no credit. As when you EUE I don't think you get points for the WU. It's possible you might get _some_, but not very much. 
I put all of my GSO's back to stock because they never EUE --even though I could get about 4k more per day with them over clocked. However the random EUE's make it so it's just not worth it. 
I bet if I volt modded my cards they'd be more consistent.


----------



## Blitz6804

From a more practical standpoint, any unit that dies due to an unstable machine must be reassigned to another folder. That is, there is one less unit being folded that can save the world because it had to be refolded.

I am willing to bet those GSOs have a higher PPD than my Cyprus cores.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
From a more practical standpoint, any unit that dies due to an unstable machine must be reassigned to another folder. That is, there is one less unit being folded that can save the world because it had to be refolded.

I am willing to bet those GSOs have a higher PPD than my Cyprus cores.


Ok.... I don't want to be a downer... but it is absolutely unreasonable to assume that any single WU will be the 'cure for cancer'. [email protected] is only the first step down a long path of research into finding a solution. It's good to be optimistic, but you have to be reasonable too.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well guys...the chimp bit me







. Folding on my GPU and SMP on my CPU. Looks like I'm getting right around 3k PPD total







. Submitted my proof in the proof thread. I couldn't resist the urge to help OCN beat eVGA. Even though this means my 12v rail is dropping to 11.2v.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
From a more practical standpoint, any unit that dies due to an unstable machine must be reassigned to another folder. That is, there is one less unit being folded that can save the world because it had to be refolded.

I am willing to bet those GSOs have a higher PPD than my Cyprus cores.

They average ~3750 PPD, although I've seen them get as high as 5500; but, also as low as 2500PPD. It just depends on the WU's you get.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 
Ok.... I don't want to be a downer... but it is absolutely unreasonable to assume that any single WU will be the 'cure for cancer'. [email protected] is only the first step down a long path of research into finding a solution. It's good to be optimistic, but you have to be reasonable too.

It's not at all unreasonable to think that. So having to re-fold a WU, while it might take away the ability to fold a newer protein, it doesn't take away from figuring out a cure. Or at least why proteins misfold.
But you're right, this is just the first step in figuring out cures for debilitating diseases. However, I believe that the real struggle will become fighting big corporations to keep the said cure.
It would really suck if all these people donated their resources only to have a big corporation reap the benefits from doing so. I know I'd be pissed as hell.


----------



## N2Gaming

I never overclock my 8600GTS cards because they are xfx and the fans on those cards are not adjustable









In any case I shut the system down and swopped the 2 8600GTS cards in to each others slots and powered the rig back on. I wanted to see if it was the card causing the problem or the slot or the power supply but after powering the system back on it seems to have cleared it's throat and has decided to fold away again full force w/all 4 cards. My theory was that iif the problem followed the card to another slot then I would know it was the card but it diden't so all is good for now. Crosses fingers.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yep, I am right then. I turn out about 3500 PPD on the 384s, 3250 PDD on the 511s. Even when overclocked to 800/1200, they turned out at best 3750 PPD and 3400 PPD respectively.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Yep, I am right then. I turn out about 3500 PPD on the 384s, 3250 PDD on the 511s. Even when overclocked to 800/1200, they turned out at best 3750 PPD and 3400 PPD respectively.


Exactly the reason I never folded on my ATi's. The power to WU ratio is horrible, considering how powerful the cards really are. They're not being utilized, not to mention the fan speeds they'd need to run at would be deafening.

As for the GSO's, they're simply great folding cards. Good PPD, they overclock well, and don't get too hot. 
And I've noticed that the amount of memory the cards have doesn't really matter for folding. My 384MB Asus GSO's get every bit as many PPD as the 768MB Evga versions.

Although, I am thinking about selling my GSO's and getting more powerful folding cards, like some GTX260/216's (or better) if I can find them at a reasonable price.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Exactly the reason I never folded on my ATi's. The power to WU ratio is horrible, considering how powerful the cards really are. They're not being utilized, not to mention the fan speeds they'd need to run at would be deafening.

As for the GSO's, they're simply great folding cards. Good PPD, they overclock well, and don't get too hot. 
And I've noticed that the amount of memory the cards have doesn't really matter for folding. My 384MB Asus GSO's get every bit as many PPD as the 768MB Evga versions.

Although, I am thinking about selling my GSO's and getting more powerful folding cards, like some GTX260/216's (or better) if I can find them at a reasonable price.










My card is actually running silent. It's my CPU fan that's killing me







. I can't even hear my 4850's fan at full speed.


----------



## Blitz6804

My HD 5970 putters along fine at 37% fan speed. That makes it just about the same audio volume as the four Ultra Kazes I have running at 1200 RPM. I dropped the fan speed down to where I clearly could not hear it, raised it up until I could just hear it, and put it 1% back down. Works great.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


My card is actually running silent. It's my CPU fan that's killing me







. I can't even hear my 4850's fan at full speed.










WHAT!









WTH kind of fan do you have on your Xiggy?

On my DK I'm using the stock one and it's pretty dang quiet considering its airflow (89 CFM). I can always hear my GPU's over pertty much every other fan in my case(s).

Does your 4850 have the squirrel cage fan? (reference cooling)

The fan's on my Evga GSO's are pretty quiet. The blades are angled and that really reduces noise output. My GSO's @ 100% fan speed are quieter than my 4870's @ 45% fan speed.









Here's a pic of what my cards look like:


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*









WHAT!









WTH kind of fan do you have on your Xiggy?

On my DK I'm using the stock one and it's pretty dang quiet considering its airflow (89 CFM). I can always hear my GPU's over pertty much every other fan in my case(s).

Does your 4850 have the squirrel cage fan? (reference cooling)

The fan's on my Evga GSO's are pretty quiet. The blades are angled and that really reduces noise output. My GSO's @ 100% fan speed are quieter than my 4870's @ 45% fan speed.









Here's a pic of what my cards look like: 










I'm using some crap Rosewill 120mm with blue LED. IIRC somewhere around 90CFM.

The GPU has what appears to be similar to a Zalman VF900 on it. I'd say a good 80mm or so fan on it and a nice copper cooler. No RAM sinks though







. Which is fine, it doesn't overheat.

EDIT:
Like this!


----------



## N2Gaming

After getting to only 6% the new card in the same slot that was EUE'n has stopped and restarted from zero again. Now I know it's not the card. So it's either the mobo or the power supply right? I used the same pcie power plugs in the same slots so if the slot was the culprit I could then swop out the pcie plugs and see if the problem follows the plugs. If the problem follows the pcie plugs that's gotta tell me it's the power supply correct???


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I'm using some crap Rosewill 120mm with blue LED. IIRC somewhere around 90CFM.

The GPU has what appears to be similar to a Zalman VF900 on it. I'd say a good 80mm or so fan on it and a nice copper cooler. No RAM sinks though







. Which is fine, it doesn't overheat.

EDIT:
Like this!










 That's the exact same cooling setup on my Asus GSO's. It's called the "Glaciator" heatsink. It does a decent job, although the only thing that sucks about my Asus GSO's is that the fan speed is not adjustable.








That and the venting inside the case really sucks too. I had my side panel on my dedicated folding rig with those 2 cards and it drove my NB temp up about 11C. Took the side panel back off and now the board is running cool as a cucumber --40C







.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


After getting to only 6% the new card in the same slot that was EUE'n has stopped and restarted from zero again. Now I know it's not the card. So it's either the mobo or the power supply right? I used the same pcie power plugs in the same slots so if the slot was the culprit I could then swop out the pcie plugs and see if the problem follows the plugs. If the problem follows the pcie plugs that's gotta tell me it's the power supply correst???


 That's very possible. Have you tried using the generic molex to pcie adapters? 
Or have you tried different PCIe plugs on different cards? See if the problem follows it to another card.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


That's very possible. Have you tried using the generic molex to pcie adapters? 
Or have you tried different PCIe plugs on different cards? See if the problem follows it to another card.


I have to use the pcie molex connectors that come w/those xfx cards because they run off of different voltages than normal cards. So about the only thing I can do is swop pcie plugs between cards. If the problem follows the plug then it's just gotta be the power supply.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


*I have to use the pcie molex connectors that come w/those xfx cards because they run off of different voltages than normal cards.* So about the only thing I can do is swop pcie plugs between cards. If the problem follows the plug then it's just gotta be the power supply.


This isn't possible.

The PCIe slot supplies 3.3v & 12v while the PCIe 6pin & 8pin plugs have 3 x 12v lines.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*












Those heatsinks really do well. They dont look like much, but they kept my 2600XT's under 50C, even with poor airflow (read whilst in Xfire). Not bad for being dead silent, eh?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
This isn't possible.

The PCIe slot supplies 3.3v & 12v while the PCIe 6pin & 8pin plugs have 3 x 12v lines.

Belive it or not the XFX 8600GTS cards I have require both 5v & 12v








The molex connectors have 3 wires going to the cards and they are Red, Yellow & black.


----------



## ny_driver

Since we are talking folding today....why would one of my cards be folding slower than the other today? When I started out today GPU 0 was @ 14% completed and GPU 1 was @ 7%, but right now GPU 0 is @ 69% and GPU 1 is only @ 45%. They are set to the same speed. 901/1000

EDIT: more specifically I guess.....why is one card running @ ~3-5% higher load?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Belive it or not the XFX 8600GTS cards I have require both 5v & 12v







The molex connectors have 3 wires going to the cards and they are Red, Yellow & black.


Normal Molex to PCIe Adapters should have 3 leads (Brown/Yellow/Black)

Though, the cards not actually getting supplied 5v as a PCIe 6pin & 8pin plugs are not designed for that.

If XFX set it up that way, they're breaking PCIe specifications.


----------



## Blitz6804

ny_driver: To answer that effectively, you would need some form of monitoring software. I use the obsolete fahmon, but someone might have a better suggestion. It is possible that one card got a smaller unit than the other, thereby causing them to split apart.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Since we are talking folding today....why would one of my cards be folding slower than the other today? When I started out today GPU 0 was @ 14% completed and GPU 1 was @ 7%, but right now GPU 0 is @ 69% and GPU 1 is only @ 45%. They are set to the same speed. 901/1000

EDIT: more specifically I guess.....why is one card running @ ~3-5% higher load?


What are you monitoring with?

And usually it depends on what Work Unit you get. Work Units offer different levels of complexity, and different point outputs.

More complex work units give less PPD (Because your GPU can only do so many per day) and take longer to do.


----------



## ny_driver

I was wondering if some work units might be more complex than others. 
I'm monitoring the GPU load with GPUZ. The one that is seeming to work slower is running at a slightly lower load ~5%. Actually the XFX is averaging 43% load and the Sapphire 47%. I just swapped GPUs so maybe it will catch up.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I was wondering if some work units might be more complex than others. 
I'm monitoring the GPU load with GPUZ. The one that is seeming to work slower is running at a slightly lower load ~5%. Actually the XFX is averaging 43% load and the Sapphire 47%. I just swapped GPUs so maybe it will catch up.










That's low loads for your GPU's to be folding at. DId you set them up that way?


----------



## ny_driver

Nope I set them to 100% I think. Looking at them right now they are running 71% and 78 % which is right around normal, from what I've seen so far.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Nope I set them to 100% I think. Looking at them right now they are running 71% and 78 % which is right around normal, from what I've seen so far.


They_ should_ be running @ 95-100% each.

I would suggest making a thread in the [email protected] Section to come to the bottom of your issue.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Since we are talking folding today....why would one of my cards be folding slower than the other today? When I started out today GPU 0 was @ 14% completed and GPU 1 was @ 7%, but right now GPU 0 is @ 69% and GPU 1 is only @ 45%. They are set to the same speed. 901/1000

EDIT: more specifically I guess.....why is one card running @ ~3-5% higher load?


 Different work units are more/less complicated, thus take longer to perform. However, you also get awarded more points.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I was wondering if some work units might be more complex than others. 
I'm monitoring the GPU load with GPUZ. The one that is seeming to work slower is running at a slightly lower load ~5%. Actually the XFX is averaging 43% load and the Sapphire 47%. I just swapped GPUs so maybe it will catch up.










Like tator said, that is pretty odd that they're loading that low. Definitely make a thread in the [email protected] section.

Blitz, in the SMP setup guide, Zodac mentions some sort of new monitoring software called HFM. It supposedly can add in the bonus for the SMP client. 
I have downloaded it, but I haven't tried it out yet so I'm not sure if it can monitor GPUs' as well.


----------



## Tator Tot

HFM can monitor everything besides the PS3 (but that's 1000 PPD and just divide by the number of hours folded.)


----------



## Blitz6804

It says it can import a fahmon configuration... great! Now, if only I can find a way to export my fahmon configuration. For some unfathomable reason, NOTHING can monitor the PS3.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


It says it can import a fahmon configuration... great! Now, if only I can find a way to export my fahmon configuration. For some unfathomable reason, NOTHING can monitor the PS3.


PS3 =


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


It says it can import a fahmon configuration... great! Now, if only I can find a way to export my fahmon configuration. For some unfathomable reason, NOTHING can monitor the PS3.


Well the PS3 has a constant PPD of 1000. It only works 3 WU's and they all spit out the same points.

The PS3 is actually the baseline for the [email protected] Project, and this is why it's PPD is constant.

The CELL could actually fold up to 8000 PPD if let to run rampant. But the [email protected] project and Sony limit it to keep thermals in check, and life span high. The PS3's CELL is also down clocked compared to the 15k model you buy from IBM.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


Those heatsinks really do well. They dont look like much, but they kept my 2600XT's under 50C, even with poor airflow (read whilst in Xfire). Not bad for being dead silent, eh?


Ah man you have no idea. I've heard of 4850's being pretty warm under a full load. Mine load at 70*C with a 99% load from the GPU2 client. That is honestly the coolest ANY of my cards have EVER run. And this is on "auto" fan speed....49%.


----------



## ny_driver

I tried to help out and fold, and I changed the registry values so the gpus would work a little harder.....well even after changing the values back my gpus don't work correctly for gaming. The gpu loads won't come up above ~40% and the FPS is down, although they fold at 85-90% now. I tried running the delete file in safe mode even and no difference. I'm not very happy I changed those registry values. What can I do?









EDIT: FAH manually removed, rebooted, no change

EDIT: going to try re-installing the cards, and if that doesn't work I guess I'll have to re-install windows again







fun!


----------



## 420Assassin

First sucessful stable over clock. HT at 800, 205 FSB and 10 multiplier at 1.325 volts http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1175255
Passed S&M, Prime95 10Hours Blend, OCCT. Will do more stress testing just to moake sure 100% stable


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *420Assassin* 
First sucessful stable over clock. HT at 800, 205 FSB and 10 multiplier at 1.325 volts http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1175255
Passed S&M, Prime95 10Hours Blend, OCCT. Will do more stress testing just to moake sure 100% stable

That's not an overclock







. Some motherboards will vary that much at stock settings







.

But hey, whatever gets you started. I want to see that Toledo AT LEAST at 2.8GHz







. I'll bet you could push 3.0 if you tried hard enough.


----------



## theCanadian

Pioneer! What happened to your rig!?


----------



## 420Assassin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


That's not an overclock







. Some motherboards will vary that much at stock settings







.

But hey, whatever gets you started. I want to see that Toledo AT LEAST at 2.8GHz







. I'll bet you could push 3.0 if you tried hard enough.


if i try any higher FSB i get mem errors on S&M could try lowering my multiplier to 9.. got a zaleman cooler so temps should be ok.. i have generic ram i pair of 512MB is smart modular brand Infenion chip other 2 are unknow brand with hynix chip..


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *420Assassin*


if i try any higher FSB i get mem errors on S&M could try lowering my multiplier to 9.. got a zaleman cooler so temps should be ok.. i have generic ram i pair of 512MB is smart modular brand Infenion chip other 2 are unknow brand with hynix chip..


The memory is your problem. You need to use a divider to keep the memory at or below stock frequencies. That RAM will only OC by a couple MHz. Also, using 4 sticks of RAM can make it more difficult to OC than if you only had 2 sticks.


----------



## 420Assassin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


The memory is your problem. You need to use a divider to keep the memory at or below stock frequencies. That RAM will only OC by a couple MHz. Also, using 4 sticks of RAM can make it more difficult to OC than if you only had 2 sticks.


well i need atleast 2Gigs for what i use my comp for 1 wont be enough i can try to lower ram settings/speeds to 166MHz 2.5-3-3-7 then switch divider aswell that should allow more cpu oc


----------



## Blitz6804

Try leaving it at 3-3-3-8, dropping it to DDR-333 (166 MHz) and see how much further you can push the HTT. If you get your HTT up to 240 MHz, it will be back at DDR-400. (A DDR-266 divider would require an HTT of 300 MHz.) Once you find the extent of your HTT, then try tightening the RAM down.

240*(166.6/200) = 200
ceiling(2400 / 200) = 12
2400 / 12 = 200 or DDR-400

300*(133.3/200) = 200
ceiling(3000 / 200) = 15
3000 / 15 = 200 or DDR-400


----------



## theCanadian

SEX! Wish I still had them.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 
Pioneer! What happened to your rig!?

My rig was taken hostage by the chimp







. I know it took the crappy Apevia PSU with it. Dunno what else went with it though. So...I'm stuck using my dad's rig in the meantime (in my rig lists).


----------



## theCanadian

That sucks.

In other news, I just discovered that one of my fans on my DuOrb wasn't spinning because the cable for the switch to my Cold Cathodes (which I never use) was stopping it. It's been like that for weeks. Would have stayed that way if I didn't notice my 9800GT running at 85C. When I took the card out to adjust the cable, the heatpipes were almost hot enough to burn.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


SEX! Wish I still had them.











I have an exact matching pair of those, they are nice... mine maxed out about 260mhz tho, on old setup, old chip years ago...


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *420Assassin* 
if i try any higher FSB i get mem errors on S&M could try lowering my multiplier to 9.. got a zaleman cooler so temps should be ok.. i have generic ram i pair of 512MB is smart modular brand Infenion chip other 2 are unknow brand with hynix chip..

As Blitz was suggesting, drop your memory divider down. With 4 sticks of RAM, the 939 _technically_ only support 333, due to integrated memory controller limitations. Drop your divider as low as you can and start cranking up the HT reference clock (FSB). You should _easily_ be able to get to 2500MHz on the 3800x2. On mine, which is a Manchester core, I was able to get it to 2700.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 
SEX! Wish I still had them.










They would be nice. However, they're too expensive for me.







. Is that a Tt Big Typhoon I see?









OT: So I added to the CC (not sure what my SMP points were with the bonus), I'm gonna leave my rigs folding for a few days and see what kind of PPD I can get out of them. At the 3 PM update I'm already at 13.5k, 9 more hours to go. I'm expecting to be in the low 20k range until I fold more than 10 SMP wu's under my passkey. Then I might be upper 20k low 30k range.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


As Blitz was suggesting, drop your memory divider down. With 4 sticks of RAM, the 939 _technically_ only support 333, due to integrated memory controller limitations. Drop your divider as low as you can and start cranking up the HT reference clock (FSB). You should _easily_ be able to get to 2500MHz on the 3800x2. On mine, which is a Manchester core, I was able to get it to 2700.

They would be nice. However, they're too expensive for me.







. Is that a Tt Big Typhoon I see?










Yeah, that's a Big Typhoon. I have two of them now. Just need to install the second one into my sig rig. The one in that picture is on my main rig now.

I got those RedLines off of newegg for $40 I think, after the rebate (which took 8 months to come through). I wound up making a profit when I sold them. But the RAM I have in my 939 rig now is almost as good.


----------



## 420Assassin

well droped multiplyer to 9x, HTT 800, Ram set to ddr-333 at 3-3-3-8, and tried 3-4-4-8, core voltage at 1.45 and tried mem voltages 1.6 and 1.7, and fsb 235.. and still got mem errors still. Cpu can be oc'ed no prob never gets errors its always the mem that causes probs..

next i may try setting timmings to the correct ddr-333 @ 2.5-3-3-7 with same multiplyer fsb and all


----------



## Blitz6804

For all club members:

I will be up for some Race Driver: GRID tonight. Likely starting around 10-11pm EDT (7-8pm PDT; 2-3am GMT). I do not know yet who will be coming along other than me, but if you are on my Steam list and you are willing, just send me an instant message and I will invite you to the voice chat and send you the session password. This will likely be the last time for me for at least a week due to law school finals. After that, I will start studying for my bar exams (New York on the 27th, multistate on the 28th, Massachusetts on the 29th of July, an yes, it must be taken in Massachusetts) so who knows how I will be able to budget my time then.


----------



## theCanadian

I'm game if the GF isn't over. Though now it's looking likely to be the case


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *420Assassin*


well droped multiplyer to 9x, HTT 800, Ram set to ddr-333 at 3-3-3-8, and tried 3-4-4-8, core voltage at 1.45 and tried mem voltages 1.6 and 1.7, and fsb 235.. and still got mem errors still. Cpu can be oc'ed no prob never gets errors its always the mem that causes probs..

next i may try setting timmings to the correct ddr-333 @ 2.5-3-3-7 with same multiplyer fsb and all


 Well the memory might just be bad. 
Have you run memtest? Do _at least_ 2 *FULL* passes; some people run memtest for 24 hours to be 100% certain that their memory isn't bad.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


For all club members:

I will be up for some Race Driver: GRID tonight. Likely starting around 10-11pm EDT (7-8pm PDT; 2-3am GMT). I do not know yet who will be coming along other than me, but if you are on my Steam list and you are willing, just send me an instant message and I will invite you to the voice chat and send you the session password. This will likely be the last time for me for at least a week due to law school finals. After that, I will start studying for my bar exams (New York on the 27th, multistate on the 28th, Massachusetts on the 29th of July, an yes, it must be taken in Massachusetts) so who knows how I will be able to budget my time then.


 I'll most likely be down for some GRID, even though I haven't played since the last time we all raced. Been playing a lot of FarCry2 lately. It's not as bad as people make it out to be really. The story isn't all that bad either. Only thing that gets on my nerves, other than the haxor NPC's, is that the speedo on all the vehicles says 95/100kmh and yet it takes 5 minutes to drive 1.5 km.









Good Luck on your exams and the bar!


----------



## Blitz6804

420Assassin: the most important tests are 5 and 8. At least three passes of each are a good place to start, and if it comes up clean (but still is not stable) then do full passes as BlackOmega suggests.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


420Assassin: the most important tests are 5 and 8. At least three passes of each are a good place to start, and if it comes up clean (but still is not stable) then do full passes as BlackOmega suggests.


 I used to do just the 2 tests but I noticed when testing my DDR3 that the failures I would get wouldn't be in those tests. Instead I would get errors in tests 4, 6, and 7. Ever since then I've suggested running full passes.


----------



## 420Assassin

i have ran memtest for 38hours on stock timings and mem is good all 4 sticks has always passed occt, prime95, super pi, S&M, orthos, and memtest when on stock timings.

the lowest the ram could go is ddr-266 all 4 sticks, and yes i know its harder to oc with 4 sticks but i need atleast 2 gigs and the 4x512MB gives me that.. i noticed aswell i had the divider 5:3 (what my mobo says ddr-333 is in bios) and when multiplyer was at 9x fsb bus was at 235 and htt 800 ram was saying its speed was 211MHz and it was ddr-400... fsb:dram cpu/10 what cpuz was saying


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *420Assassin*


i have ran memtest for 38hours on stock timings and mem is good all 4 sticks has always passed occt, prime95, super pi, S&M, orthos, and memtest when on stock timings.

the lowest the ram could go is ddr-266 all 4 sticks, and yes i know its harder to oc with 4 sticks but i need atleast 2 gigs and the 4x512MB gives me that.. i noticed aswell i had the divider 5:3 (what my mobo says ddr-333 is in bios) and when multiplyer was at 9x fsb bus was at 235 and htt 800 ram was saying its speed was 211MHz and it was ddr-400... fsb:dram cpu/10 what cpuz was saying


The speed of your RAM is determined (basically) by your FSB. The two are related. When you bump up the FSB, you're OCing everything. That's why you need the dividers on the RAM.


----------



## 420Assassin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


The speed of your RAM is determined (basically) by your FSB. The two are related. When you bump up the FSB, you're OCing everything. That's why you need the dividers on the RAM.


so u think it would be best to set the ram to the lowest speeds divider on my mobo says ddr-266 4:3.. ddr400 is 2:1.... then start bumping up fsb after that .... should i keep the 3-3-3-8 timmings ddr-400 or goto 2-2-2-6 what mem says ddr-266 should be set to


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *420Assassin*


so u think it would be best to set the ram to the lowest speeds divider on my mobo says ddr-266 4:3.. ddr400 is 2:1.... then start bumping up fsb after that .... should i keep the 3-3-3-8 timmings ddr-400 or goto 2-2-2-6 what mem says ddr-266 should be set to


I would suggest you try 3-3-3-8 timings and the 266 or 333 divider. Get your CPU up to speed first (with your memory at DDR400 or below in CPUz), and THEN worry about your RAM settings. CPU speed is king, RAM speed honestly doesn't make that much difference in real world applications.


----------



## 420Assassin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I would suggest you try 3-3-3-8 timings and the 266 or 333 divider. Get your CPU up to speed first (with your memory at DDR400 or below in CPUz), and THEN worry about your RAM settings. CPU speed is king, RAM speed honestly doesn't make that much difference in real world applications.

ya im not conserened bout ram speed really its just that whatever setting i choose the ram always throws errors.. noticed too that the spped was usually above the 200.3MHz its normally at even at 211MHz it threw errors that was the last settings i used posted above..

But i will lower the ram divider to as low as i can then keep multiplyer at 9x HTT 800, and the keep playing with FSB making sure HTT dosnt go over 1000MHz and ram speed 200MHz and hopefully ram passes S&M since thats where it gives errors. Its the first outa 5 stress testers i use and after i get that 1 error i always reboot and change settings


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *420Assassin*


ya im not conserened bout ram speed really its just that whatever setting i choose the ram always throws errors.. noticed too that the spped was usually above the 200.3MHz its normally at even at 211MHz it threw errors that was the last settings i used posted above..

But i will lower the ram divider to as low as i can then keep multiplyer at 9x HTT 800, and the keep playing with FSB making sure HTT dosnt go over 1000MHz and ram speed 200MHz and hopefully ram passes S&M since thats where it gives errors. Its the first outa 5 stress testers i use and after i get that 1 error i always reboot and change settings


If its the 3800 in your sig, you might want to try the following:

240x10 CPU
4x HT Link
166 (DDR333) divider
3-3-3-8-2T timings

That should put your memory right AT DDR400 speeds. And your CPU should run 2.4GHz no problem at all. I didn't really notice what you're running at right now, but you have a 10x multiplier with that 3800x2, you might as well use it







.


----------



## 420Assassin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


If its the 3800 in your sig, you might want to try the following:

240x10 CPU
4x HT Link
166 (DDR333) divider
3-3-3-8-2T timings

That should put your memory right AT DDR400 speeds. And your CPU should run 2.4GHz no problem at all. I didn't really notice what you're running at right now, but you have a 10x multiplier with that 3800x2, you might as well use it







.


k wrote it down as soon as my brother goes to bed and stops watching movies on his xbox off my pc i will do a reboot change settings to what u said and run the stresstests get ready for 3 hours of boredom hehe.. and 4x HT Link that would be 400Mhz HyperTransport Frequency.. just wanna make sure .. and +1 rep for making settings i have to change easy to understand.. well for me atleast i have a handicap puff puff pass....

also this may help its the settings i can change in bios since every 1 is diff and some call things different


----------



## 420Assassin

k tried divider at dd-333 but comp restarted itself when was bout to log into windows let it go for a second try and got a blue screen.. So i set the divider to ddr-266 and set to what u said. mem is a lil slower than what i want the 200 it was but only 40MHz off and passed S&M memory part running cpu test for it after this post


----------



## ny_driver

You will likely have a lot less random reboots and other annoying stuff while overclocking and testing with only 2 sticks of memory in there. Quit being so hard headed about using 4 sticks of memory.









Once you get the CPU to a nice stable OC then you can re-install the other 2 sticks of memory and go from there. Pass on the puff puff for a week and you should be able to afford 2x 1GB memory. I have a brand new set of Crucial sitting here I'd sell pretty cheap. PM me if interested.

EDIT: I was just reading about your motherboard and it says there is no agp/pcie lock....which means when you are overclocking your FSB you are overclocking your agp bus, too. This could be a problem.








And that is one funny avatar too....I recognize the picture from a music video I think, but which one?


----------



## Blitz6804

In my opinion, 4x 512 MB should not have a problem. The problem arises with the memory controller with 2x 1024 + 2x512/1024.

I am curious why you set your Hypertransport multiplier to 2x (480) when 4x (960) would be better.

ny_driver discovers an interesting point: If you do not have a PCI/AGP lock, when you overclock your hypertransport, you will be unstable as you are overclocking your PCI and AGP slots. Assuming this is the case, when your HTT is 240, your PCI slots are 40 MHz (a 7 MHz overclock) and your AGP slot is at 80 MHz (a 14 MHz overclock) which can lead to instability. To test this, set your memory as 1:1 (DDR-200), 3-3-3-8, processor multiplier to 6x, and your HTT around 240-250. If you still have errors even though both the CPU and the memory are grossly underclocked, your board is holding you back, which being a Via chipset, is not overly surprising. You can also try SetFSB, as I believe the software permits a PCI/AGP lock even if the motherboard does not. Make sure you get ahold of the A8V version, which is in beta, as it appears the normal version will not work on that motherboard.

Regards your testing ethos: the memory tester built into S&M is fairly worthless, you use it for CPU stability primarily. For memory stability, I have found two instances of Prime95x64 works far better. If you have Orthos, just copy the folder in its entirety, and run two instances in "blend." Also, when stress testing, you should exit Sidebar (for that matter, any unnecessary software) and disable Aero to give the testing program access to as many resources as possible.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey guys. Sorry I must have missed out on the racing if any took place. I was spending time w/mother for Mom's day


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, it is nice to have a CC2010 tag in my signature I suppose, but I am still a little upset I never got a CC2009 tag installed there. Granted, the chimp on the CC2009 tag kinda creeps me out a bit.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Well, it is nice to have a CC2010 tag in my signature I suppose, but I am still a little upset I never got a CC2009 tag installed there. Granted, the chimp on the CC2009 tag kinda creeps me out a bit.

Yep same here. And pretty soon my other tag will change also, 2 million point. I figure it should take me about a month to get it.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Yep same here. And pretty soon my other tag will change also, 2 million point. I figure it should take me about a month to get it.

Rub it in. I no longer like the chimp.....


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Rub it in. I no longer like the chimp.....

How come?


----------



## Blitz6804

Blew up his Apevia PSU. He really gave for the cause.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
How come?









The day the contest ended...I awoke to the smell of burning plastic and electronics in the garage. As usual...I knew what happened. My Apevia unit died







. Since I've already had one Apevia unit die, and it took everything (literally) with it....I'm afraid that's most likely what happened again. This time, I cannot RMA anything though, as nothing is under warranty anymore







.

Oh well, I have the following on the way:
Antec EA650 (thanks to Pez)
Gigabyte RMA board (original not arrived yet)
Antec TP3 650 RMA (haven't sent out yet)
Athlon XP rig (to use while AM2+ build it out)
6GB DDR400 (all 1GB sticks)

So hopefully later this week I'll at least have a stupid Athlon XP rig to use.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Blew up his Apevia PSU. He really gave for the cause.

Man that thing was smokin for months.









I just noticed your new upgrades. Very nice







I've been thinking of getting a Thuban myself and resurrecting my AM3 rig.

How do you like it and the 890FX so far? Not to mention, nice RAID array, what kind of performance are you getting out of it?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
The day the contest ended...I awoke to the smell of burning plastic and electronics in the garage. As usual...I knew what happened. My Apevia unit died







. Since I've already had one Apevia unit die, and it took everything (literally) with it....I'm afraid that's most likely what happened again. This time, I cannot RMA anything though, as nothing is under warranty anymore







.

Oh well, I have the following on the way:
Antec EA650 (thanks to Pez)
Gigabyte RMA board (original not arrived yet)
Antec TP3 650 RMA (haven't sent out yet)
Athlon XP rig (to use while AM2+ build it out)
6GB DDR400 (all 1GB sticks)

So hopefully later this week I'll at least have a stupid Athlon XP rig to use.

Man.... you should know about those damn crappy PSU's already. This is the second crap unit you've had that has taken stuff with it.
But now that I think about it







You're killing PSU's at an alarming rate. I think it would be in your best interest to get some sort of power filtration.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Man that thing was smokin for months.









I just noticed your new upgrades. Very nice







I've been thinking of getting a Thuban myself and resurrecting my AM3 rig.

How do you like it and the 890FX so far? Not to mention, nice RAID array, what kind of performance are you getting out of it?

Man.... you should know about those damn crappy PSU's already. This is the second crap unit you've had that has taken stuff with it.
But now that I think about it







You're killing PSU's at an alarming rate. I think it would be in your best interest to get some sort of power filtration.

Not really...

My first Apevia unit went because I overloaded it. 9600GT's in SLI...yeah not a good idea on an Apevia 500w







.

The Antec TP3 650 was killed by the Gigabyte board. Period. It PROBABLY is still fine if I soldered new connectors on it...but I don't care. Antec is going to RMA it, I might as well do it to be 100% safe.

The last Apevia unit that just died....I didn't really have any other choice. The EA650 was on its way, and I hoped the Apevia unit would last a week. I hoped wrong I guess.

I just hope something hurries up and gets here...so I can have something to use again.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Blew up his Apevia PSU. He really gave for the cause.

Yeah, I gave for the cause of OCNChimpin....and I got nothing but this lousy badge from it







. Lol, oh well. I was hoping to help out so we could win it.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Not really...

My first Apevia unit went because I overloaded it. 9600GT's in SLI...yeah not a good idea on an Apevia 500w







.

The Antec TP3 650 was killed by the Gigabyte board. Period. It PROBABLY is still fine if I soldered new connectors on it...but I don't care. Antec is going to RMA it, I might as well do it to be 100% safe.

The last Apevia unit that just died....I didn't really have any other choice. The EA650 was on its way, and I hoped the Apevia unit would last a week. I hoped wrong I guess.

I just hope something hurries up and gets here...so I can have something to use again.

So this last Apevia unit that you just had, what was the wattage on it and what were you running? How old was it? Was it previously damaged?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
So this last Apevia unit that you just had, what was the wattage on it and what were you running? How old was it? Was it previously damaged?

It was roughly 2 years old. It was the 500w unit that came in my X-Master HTPC case. It ran solid in my HTPC build (x2 3800+ Manny @ 2.0GHz, 1.0v / HD3450). I then proceeded to use it on "Burny v1.1" in my sig, in the hopes that it would last until Pez's old Antec EA650 arrived. It probably would have lasted if it weren't for the Chimp Challenge. Under a full system load, the 12v rail was dropping to 11.2v.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


It was roughly 2 years old. It was the 500w unit that came in my X-Master HTPC case. It ran solid in my HTPC build (x2 3800+ Manny @ 2.0GHz, 1.0v / HD3450). I then proceeded to use it on "Burny v1.1" in my sig, in the hopes that it would last until Pez's old Antec EA650 arrived. It probably would have lasted if it weren't for the Chimp Challenge. *Under a full system load, the 12v rail was dropping to 11.2v.*












Holy smoke! That explains it though. Were you folding on your 9600's and the 165?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*











Holy smoke! That explains it though. Were you folding on your 9600's and the 165?


Don't have the 9600's anymore







. That was on the FIRST Apevia unit to die...that was YEARS ago. I was folding on my 4850 and my 165, yes.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Don't have the 9600's anymore







. That was on the FIRST Apevia unit to die...that was YEARS ago. I was folding on my 4850 and my 165, yes.


Ahh.... I don't bother folding on my 3800x2, for some reason it takes points away from the GPU clients and what it takes away, it doesn't make up. I think it pumps something like 200 PPD, not even worth the extra electricity IMO.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Ahh.... I don't bother folding on my 3800x2, for some reason it takes points away from the GPU clients and what it takes away, it doesn't make up. I think it pumps something like 200 PPD, not even worth the extra electricity IMO.


I was getting roughly 750 PPD doing SMP on the Opty @ 3.0GHz. Then my 4850 was putting out around 2300. Not too bad, about 3300 on a good day







.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I was getting roughly 750 PPD doing SMP on the Opty @ 3.0GHz. *Then my 4850 was putting out around 2300*. Not too bad, about 3300 on a good day







.


 And this is exactly why I don't fold using ATi. For as powerful as a 4850 is, it should destroy in points, yet doesn't even make 3k.









Its sad to think that 1 overclocked 8800GS/9600GSO could produce as many points as 2 4850's. At probably less than half the power usage.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I just noticed your new upgrades. Very nice







I've been thinking of getting a Thuban myself and resurrecting my AM3 rig.

How do you like it and the 890FX so far? Not to mention, nice RAID array, what kind of performance are you getting out of it?

I do not have it yet. I just changed over the sig rig when I submitted my Newegg order, but rest assured, you will notice my signature change over to its build thread. Any luck, I will remember to take pictures this time when I wire her up. Who knows, maybe I will even get the cables nice this time? Nah.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
And this is exactly why I don't fold using ATi. For as powerful as a 4850 is, it should destroy in points, yet doesn't even make 3k.









Well, in my case, it is the only GPU I have, so it is ATi or nothing. If I GPU fold only, I get about 6600 PPD. If I GPU/CPU fold, I get about 6400 PPD on the GPU, 400 PPD on the CPU. (A slight overall gain.) If I GPU/SMP I get about 3400 PPD on the GPU, 800 PPD on the CPU. (An overall loss of about a third.) With two extra cores, I should be able to at least boot another CPU client, two if I am lucky. I might even be able to swing the SMP, but I have no idea. (Since each GPU client literally eats a core.)

My laptop I do SMP folding when practical as it does (slightly) beat out CPU folding. The disadvantage, however, is that I get really close to the deadlines. It takes my laptop around 30 hours to fold a unit (this is with the client set to "small") and with it not being on 24/7, I am usually finishing about three hours before the deadline. CPU folding is a much less hectic affair, just fold when in class, forget about it otherwise. For the record, GPU folding (on its HD 2600) scores between the CPU and the SMP if I remember right, but with even tighter deadlines than the SMP.


----------



## ny_driver

I chipped in about 10 WUs before my XFX 4890 crapped it's pants. I guess since I didn't submit proof of my work I don't get the CC badge. Hmmm.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
I chipped in about 10 WUs before my XFX 4890 crapped it's pants. I guess since I didn't submit proof of my work I don't get the CC badge. Hmmm.









^ This and you miss out on any prizes you may have won if you were drawn as a winner when they drew for prizes.


----------



## Blitz6804

I would not have accepted any prizes had I won any; I just jumped through all the hoops this time to make sure I got the badge they gypped me last time.


----------



## N2Gaming

I would. Cash I'll happily accept all day long.


----------



## Blitz6804

It is not worth the supplemental income form come tax time for one, for two, I am not really for want of anything right now. If I were required to accept it (which I have never heard of in my life) I would have just directed it to another who could actually use it.

In other news, one final down, one final left. Now where's my booze!? What is a birthday party without booze!?

In still other news, the SMP completely by itself on my x4 brings in about 1250 PPD. If I can use the x6 for quad SMP and two GPUs, I would expect to be reliably over 8000 PPD. Let us hope!


----------



## N2Gaming

Come on now... $50-$100.00 should not affect your taxes much if any at all but forgetting to add it if it's not considered a gift when you file. Now that could be a small problem. What's your booze of choice... PM me and I'll virtually ship you some


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hey fellas, so sorry I've been out of touch forever. Been ludicrously busy lately. The latest time sink has been apartment hunting. I'll be moving into a new (air conditioned! YESSSSS!) place soon.

S939ers who have sent me PMs: I've yet to respond to them, but I am aware of them and will respond and act according to what they need/ask for.

@Blitzy: TYVM for all your hard work with the roster. I've not been able to keep up with that (apologies to ALL







), but will get back on the horse soon when I've got time. Between the impending move and all the prep work involved with that, plus all that's been happening at work, quality free time has been at a premium.

I'm ecstatic to see that everyone's been doing great. Well... except for pio, that is.







Yo, man, you gotta PM me soon. We'll talk about what's going on with you.

Semper Fi, S939!


----------



## Blitz6804

If anyone is curious about the fault tolerances of RAID 10 and RAID 5, I just recently computed them in my thread. For your convenience:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Yeah, the idea of quadrupling my fault rate without adjusting my fault tolerance did not really appeal to me. Would I like the speed? Sure. Do I think it is worth the risk? Maybe not.

To demonstrate, let me assume that the average hard drive has a 2% chance of failure within five years.

For a RAID 0 to die, any of the four drives may die. Since each has a 2% failure rate:

P(d0) \\/ P(d1) \\/ P(d2) \\/ P(d3) = 0.02 + 0.02 + 0.02 + 0.02 = 0.08 = 8%

For a RAID 10 to die, you need to kill two drives of the same mirror. Killing one drive off each mirror will not kill the RAID. So if drive a0 dies, a1 must also die; losing b0 or b1 will not do it. With each having a 2% failure rate:

(P(a0) /\\ P(a1)) \\/ (P(b0) /\\ P(b1)) = (0.02 * 0.02) + (0.02 * 0.02) = 0.0004 + 0.0004 = 0.0008 = 0.08%

As I was also considering RAID 5 for a while, as it has 50% more storage than RAID 10, so I will discuss that now; I ultimately decided against it due to the CPU overhead since I cannot (at this time) afford a PERC card as Tator Tot suggests I get. To kill a RAID 5 array, you must kill any two drives you want. Keeping that same 2% failure rate:

(P(d0) /\\ (P(d1) \\/ P(d2) \\/ P(d3)) \\/ (P(d1) /\\ (P(d2) \\/ P(d3)) \\/ (P(d2) \\/ P(d3)) = (0.02 * (0.02 + 0.02 + 0.02)) + (0.02 * (0.02 + 0.02)) + (0.02 * 0.02) = (0.02 * 0.06) + (0.02 * 0.04) + (0.02 * 0.02) = 0.02 * (0.06 + 0.04 + 0.02) = 0.02 * 0.12 = 0.0024 = 0.24%

In summation:

RAID 0:
8% failure rate
four times greater than a single drive
Capacity = 4 TB
Fastest of the three
RAID 5:
0.24% failure rate
eight-and-a-third times less than a single drive
Capacity = 3 TB
Slowest of the three without a dedicated card
RAID 10:
0.08% failure rate
twenty-five times less than a single drive
one-hundred times less than RAID 0
three times less than RAID 5
Capacity = 2 TB
Faster than a single drive, slower than RAID 0
Sure, I have a lot of missing capacity with RAID 10, but since I am going to partition such that I am only using about 600-700 GiB, what does it matter?


----------



## theCanadian

Probably will never touch RAID 0 unless I build a rig dedicated solely to gaming.

RAID that actually has some redundancy is definitely on my list. My main rig should be good for another year at least, so the next upgrade will probably be a RAID card and new drives. Or just get an SSD.

BTW. Grid tonight?


----------



## Blitz6804

I dunno if we are doing anything tonight. Interesting to note that Joe has been more frequent as of late, and as it so happens, Pio, ny_driver, and I all were doing RACE07 last night.


----------



## ny_driver

I'll play Race 07' if you guys want to get together. Let's run some F1 cars......ohh I think they are all BMWs in Race 07' though. Blitz would go crazy if everyone has the same cars.


----------



## Blitz6804

Same cars are fine, just stop picking similar colors! I think I am going to make it a rule with GRID that you MUST have a custom livery to play in my server. Granted, GRID is better than RACE07 in that names appear over the cars, so at least as I get closer I can see who it is.


----------



## nategr8ns

^ Green&Purple liveries FTW. I think I also made a blue/gold one and probably some even ricier blue+orange.


----------



## Blitz6804

You ever get GRID nate? Wanna get in on this?


----------



## godofdeath

when you lap the cpu is it normal for the corners to like get be getting lapped?
i feel that the corners arent uh getting sanded


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


You ever get GRID nate? Wanna get in on this?


I got it a long time ago (when it was still new







). Its too late for me though. I'm an early bird.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I forgot to mention....

Burny v1.1 is ALIVE AGAIN!!!









Turns out just the Apevia PSU died. Got an Antec EA650 from Pez in yesterday, and my rig's been running strong since then. 12v rail drops to ~11.90v.

And Antec approved the RMA for my TP3 650 as well. So I'll be shipping that off as soon as I can afford it







.


----------



## nategr8ns

Cool stuff Pio! Goes to show that you should never give up on your hardware until you've made sure its dead







.


----------



## theCanadian

I'm guessing we didn't race yesterday? I completely forgot I was moving out. As I type my main rig is in a box. Currently typing from the sig rig.

Hopefully sometime next week I'll have a minute between unpacking and repacking and getting preped for my new ($12/hr







) construction job to get the TT BigTyphoon installed..

Edit: Then, I can shoot for 3GHz AND have a quiet rig. The current stock heatsink has two fans stacked on it and one of them just started dying and making all sorts of noise. I'll have to get on that TT BigTyphoon install ASAP.


----------



## 420Assassin

yo canadian got a stable oc finally at 2.4ghz had to lower divider to ddr-266... ddr-333 was giving me a restart first try and a BSOD second.. only concern is when running OCCT linear test temps reach over 70c at 1.35v vcore.. http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1186851 but im happy with speeds ill take to 40mhz loss on ram to gain 400mhz cpu speed.. just gotta try and lower temps a bit now


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 
I'm guessing we didn't race yesterday? I completely forgot I was moving out.

There were a few races, nothing at all major or really even organized.


----------



## N2Gaming

My bro is racing atm in single player mode.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
I do not have it yet. I just changed over the sig rig when I submitted my Newegg order, but rest assured, you will notice my signature change over to its build thread. Any luck, I will remember to take pictures this time when I wire her up. Who knows, maybe I will even get the cables nice this time? Nah.Well, in my case, it is the only GPU I have, so it is ATi or nothing. If I GPU fold only, I get about 6600 PPD. If I GPU/CPU fold, I get about 6400 PPD on the GPU, 400 PPD on the CPU. (A slight overall gain.) If I GPU/SMP I get about 3400 PPD on the GPU, 800 PPD on the CPU. (An overall loss of about a third.) With two extra cores, I should be able to at least boot another CPU client, two if I am lucky. I might even be able to swing the SMP, but I have no idea. (Since each GPU client literally eats a core.)

My laptop I do SMP folding when practical as it does (slightly) beat out CPU folding. The disadvantage, however, is that I get really close to the deadlines. It takes my laptop around 30 hours to fold a unit (this is with the client set to "small") and with it not being on 24/7, I am usually finishing about three hours before the deadline. CPU folding is a much less hectic affair, just fold when in class, forget about it otherwise. For the record, GPU folding (on its HD 2600) scores between the CPU and the SMP if I remember right, but with even tighter deadlines than the SMP.

With 4 GPUs' folding away and 1 SMP client I've been bouncing between 18 and 22k per day. So I'm figuring I'm getting ~7k per day from the SMP client. I'm going to look in to possibly running more SMP clients and what the -bigadv thing is. As it stands I think this i7 churns out about 3 SMP WU's per day.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Hey fellas, so sorry I've been out of touch forever. Been ludicrously busy lately. The latest time sink has been apartment hunting. I'll be moving into a new (air conditioned! YESSSSS!) place soon.

S939ers who have sent me PMs: I've yet to respond to them, but I am aware of them and will respond and act according to what they need/ask for.

@Blitzy: TYVM for all your hard work with the roster. I've not been able to keep up with that (apologies to ALL







), but will get back on the horse soon when I've got time. Between the impending move and all the prep work involved with that, plus all that's been happening at work, quality free time has been at a premium.

I'm ecstatic to see that everyone's been doing great. Well... except for pio, that is.







Yo, man, you gotta PM me soon. We'll talk about what's going on with you.

Semper Fi, S939!









Holy smokes! I haven't heard from you since 'Nam. I hope all is well with you. Are you still seeing that lady friend of yours? (yes it's been that long







)

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
If anyone is curious about the fault tolerances of RAID 10 and RAID 5, I just recently computed them in my thread. For your convenience:

Interesting results. When I finally decide to get some new HDD's, I might go for RAID 10.







What'd those Spinpoint srun ya?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *godofdeath* 
when you lap the cpu is it normal for the corners to like get be getting lapped?
i feel that the corners arent uh getting sanded

If the corners start getting rounded then you need to re-tape your sandpaper. What's happening is the sandpaper is bunching up in front of the CPU and kind of standing up, thus it will cause your CPU to look like this: \\____________/

The sandpaper has to be REALLY tight when you tape it down. Use duct tape.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I forgot to mention....

Burny v1.1 is ALIVE AGAIN!!!









Turns out just the Apevia PSU died. Got an Antec EA650 from Pez in yesterday, and my rig's been running strong since then. 12v rail drops to ~11.90v.

And Antec approved the RMA for my TP3 650 as well. So I'll be shipping that off as soon as I can afford it







.









good to hear it man.

Is burny still smokin?

PS: When you guys are going to get on GRID or Dirt/Dirt2 shoot me a PM on here.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
With 4 GPUs' folding away and 1 SMP client I've been bouncing between 18 and 22k per day. So I'm figuring I'm getting ~7k per day from the SMP client. I'm going to look in to possibly running more SMP clients and what the -bigadv thing is. As it stands I think this i7 churns out about 3 SMP WU's per day.








Holy smokes! I haven't heard from you since 'Nam. I hope all is well with you. Are you still seeing that lady friend of yours? (yes it's been that long







)

Interesting results. When I finally decide to get some new HDD's, I might go for RAID 10.







What'd those Spinpoint srun ya?

If the corners start getting rounded then you need to re-tape your sandpaper. What's happening is the sandpaper is bunching up in front of the CPU and kind of standing up, thus it will cause your CPU to look like this: \\____________/

The sandpaper has to be REALLY tight when you tape it down. Use duct tape.








good to hear it man.

Is burny still smokin?

PS: When you guys are going to get on GRID or Dirt/Dirt2 shoot me a PM on here.

Well...she hasn't caught fire on me YET since the new PSU arrived from Pez. I'm still fairly certain the VRM's are shot. My voltage is still fluctuating like crazy. Just got a Socket A rig in today (thanks to Lunchbox21984). So I'll be installing that later tonight, until I can fix the VRM issue on my Asus board.....or get my AM2+ RMA'd.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Well...she hasn't caught fire on me YET since the new PSU arrived from Pez. I'm still fairly certain the VRM's are shot. My voltage is still fluctuating like crazy. Just got a Socket A rig in today (thanks to Lunchbox21984). So I'll be installing that later tonight, until I can fix the VRM issue on my Asus board.....or get my AM2+ RMA'd.

Voltage regulation on those A8N32's was never all that great. Mine, that never ran hot in it's "life" fluctuated all over the place.
You thinkin about replacing the VRM's?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Voltage regulation on those A8N32's was never all that great. Mine, that never ran hot in it's "life" fluctuated all over the place.
You thinkin about replacing the VRM's?

Yeah, won't be able to for a while though...unless RadioCrack just HAPPENS to carry them (which I doubt). I'll likely have to buy a dead one off fleabay or something later on.

And mine fluctuates 10x more than normal. 1.2-1.65v fluctuation on my CPU. The PSU rails are rock solid now though







.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Yeah, won't be able to for a while though...unless RadioCrack just HAPPENS to carry them (which I doubt). I'll likely have to buy a dead one off fleabay or something later on.

And mine fluctuates 10x more than normal. 1.2-1.65v fluctuation on my CPU. The PSU rails are rock solid now though







.










Holy crap. That's one helluva fluctuation. Mine fluctuated anywhere from .05 to .1v. Made it so hard to get a good OC out of my 165.

However, if you can see the markings on them, a radio supply store should have them in stock. My brother worked for one years ago and you could basically find a cap, transistor, whatever for just about anything. Except Sony stuff as they use their own proprietary markings and you can only guess as to what the actual current or capacity is (found that out trying to fix a PS 1 years ago).


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Interesting results. When I finally decide to get some new HDD's, I might go for RAID 10.







What'd those Spinpoint srun ya?
. . .
PS: When you guys are going to get on GRID or Dirt/Dirt2 shoot me a PM on here.

Normally $90 each, I got for sale at $75 each. Normally if I do not see someone on Steam, I do not think about them. I hardly ever think to PM you here. *Chuckles.*


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Normally $90 each, I got for sale at $75 each. Normally if I do not see someone on Steam, I do not think about them. I hardly ever think to PM you here. *Chuckles.*


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Normally $90 each, I got for sale at $75 each. *Normally if I do not see someone on Steam, I do not think about them.* I hardly ever think to PM you here. *Chuckles.*

In other words BO....GET YOUR @$$ ON STEAM MORE OFTEN!!!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
In other words BO....GET YOUR @$$ ON STEAM MORE OFTEN!!!

I've been doing lots of SMP folding lately and the more I have open at one time the lower my PPD production goes, so I usually only get on steam when I'm about to play. Which in all honesty, hasn't been that much lately since classes have started up for me again. 5 classes this semester. I'm going to be one paper writing fool this summer.







I hate writing papers.


----------



## theCanadian

Should I mount the BigTyphoon tonight? I have to be up at 8. I havent lapped it yet either, but the base on this one actually doesn't look bad.


----------



## ny_driver

The naked eye may not be able to see the unevenness. All 4 of the CPUs I've lapped looked perfectly flat, and all of them had pretty major low spots in the center.

I just got my water block for my gpu today, and am dying to install it, but I think I'll wait until tomorrow after I have a chance to lap it.








You could always install it and then when you have more time, take it off and lap it to see just how much difference it made. That's what I'd do if I was you.


----------



## theCanadian

BTW, ny_driver. You were the one having trouble with your 939 rig in GRID right? Well, I just tried it on my 939 rig and I had some trouble too. It crashed and lagged a lot. I was able to fix it by turning off MultiSampling. You might want to give that a try.

Edit: Meh, I think I'll do it all in one go and take care of it on monday when I get back. But then, then I'll be going for 3.0. I have a lot of hope for this chip. The previous owner said he ran it at 3.0 under water without much effort, so hopefully the same OC is achievable on air.


----------



## BlackOmega

Definitely lap the BT if you have the time. Even if it's flat the base's finish is so rough that you will inevitably get air bubbles without it. And I bet you it isn't perfectly flat. Every Tt air cooler I've measured was concave.


----------



## kustomkrazykat

Hello every one, I am new to OCN, actually pretty new to computers, even tho I am 40... Go figure, anyhow I love my socket 939 machine and I would like to join the ranks of your appreciation group and ask dumb questions. I have never overclocked my machine, (never really had to, love the AMD 4000+) but it is getting a little out of the times and I have been looking for an alternative CPU. I found an X2 4800+ on ebay and tried to use that however the machine would get a BSOD and a machine check exception error message after about 10-15 min. When I installed the chip I figured drop it in let windows work it out right? Maybe not? For the initial installation I got all the drivers updates and the dual core optimizer loaded, CPU-Z would recognize it, as well as windows, however like I said 10-15 minutes thats it. BSOD It was really fast while it ran. I put the old 4000+ single core back in and it straightened itself right out. I was thinking it could be a PSU problem and I have installed a 600w PSU from coolermaster and I would like to try it again. Any advice on getting the machine a little more prepared for this? Should I clear CMOS? I have read a few concerns about BIOS settings or updates, if I gotta do that, I am hosed, this board updates via floppy disk... I noticed a lot of racing here, and that is my whole reason for the upgrades to my machine! I can play GRID great but DiRT isn't playing right now and I really want DiRT 2!!! My machine specs are:

BFG tech nforce 4 ultra motherboard (basically updated chaintech)
AMD athlon 64 4000+ processor 2.4ghz stock
zalman 9500 cpu cooler
eVGA 8800 GTS OC graphics card (640 mb,GTX speeds)
ageia phys X card (128 mb)
320 gig HDD, toshiba combo dvd/cd drive
(heres the rub...) Windows XP Professional 64bit O/S (Actually Server 2003 renamed...)

I can still send the 4800+ back and continue to shop, or go for broke with this 4000+. I have also found an Opteron 185 but I am not sure if this board will run that chip, anyone? I love this machine and IMHO it is a long way from being outdated, hell, as it sits it will run L4D2 pretty good. (It was better with the 4800+ when it ran hehe









Any way great site, my steam id is kustomkrazykat, or digitaldevildog depending on the machine I am on that night, I have a bunch of games (MW2, L4D, L4D2, GRiD, DiRT, Race On, TF2, etc.)if anyone wants to kill some time. Thanx in advance, Mike


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kustomkrazykat*


Hello every one, I am new to OCN, actually pretty new to computers, even tho I am 40... Go figure, anyhow I love my socket 939 machine and I would like to join the ranks of your appreciation group and ask dumb questions. I have never overclocked my machine, (never really had to, love the AMD 4000+) but it is getting a little out of the times and I have been looking for an alternative CPU. I found an X2 4800+ on ebay and tried to use that however the machine would get a BSOD and a machine check exception error message after about 10-15 min. When I installed the chip I figured drop it in let windows work it out right? Maybe not? For the initial installation I got all the drivers updates and the dual core optimizer loaded, CPU-Z would recognize it, as well as windows, however like I said 10-15 minutes thats it. BSOD It was really fast while it ran. I put the old 4000+ single core back in and it straightened itself right out. I was thinking it could be a PSU problem and I have installed a 600w PSU from coolermaster and I would like to try it again. Any advice on getting the machine a little more prepared for this? Should I clear CMOS? I have read a few concerns about BIOS settings or updates, if I gotta do that, I am hosed, this board updates via floppy disk... I noticed a lot of racing here, and that is my whole reason for the upgrades to my machine! I can play GRID great but DiRT isn't playing right now and I really want DiRT 2!!! My machine specs are:

BFG tech nforce 4 ultra motherboard (basically updated chaintech)
AMD athlon 64 4000+ processor 2.4ghz stock
zalman 9500 cpu cooler
eVGA 8800 GTS OC graphics card (640 mb,GTX speeds)
ageia phys X card (128 mb)
320 gig HDD, toshiba combo dvd/cd drive
(heres the rub...) Windows XP Professional 64bit O/S (Actually Server 2003 renamed...)

I can still send the 4800+ back and continue to shop, or go for broke with this 4000+. I have also found an Opteron 185 but I am not sure if this board will run that chip, anyone? I love this machine and IMHO it is a long way from being outdated, hell, as it sits it will run L4D2 pretty good. (It was better with the 4800+ when it ran hehe









Any way great site, my steam id is kustomkrazykat, or digitaldevildog depending on the machine I am on that night, I have a bunch of games (MW2, L4D, L4D2, GRiD, DiRT, Race On, TF2, etc.)if anyone wants to kill some time. Thanx in advance, Mike


 Hey Mike, Welcome to the 939 appreciation club.









Ok first and foremost, anytime you plop a new CPU in a board, it's a good idea to clear the CMOS. 
Second, I think that that 4800x2 has been abused. Send it back. 
Third, Opterons will work on desktop boards, even though they're not officially supported, which is dumb because the Athlons are identical in almost every way. Even by their code name they're the same, i.e. Toledo core opteron/toledo core Athlon. However, the Opterons support error correcting RAM.
Fourth, opterons are typically heartier than their Athlon counterparts. While this is not _always_ the case, it usually is. 
Fifth, don't buy a 185. While it is the fastest 939 Opty, from what we have seen here on OCN, the opty 170/175's typically OC a lot better.

BTW, your 600w PSU is more than enough for a dual core CPU. That is not a problem unless the actual power supply is going bad and dropping voltage on certain rails.

Welcome to the club and remember, there are no dumb questions.

Good Luck


----------



## kustomkrazykat

Thank you very much for the warm welcome, I kind of thought the 4800+ could have taken a beating, but I wanted to at least be as fair as I could. I will look for a 170/175 Opteron, I have never O/C'd any of my machines before, but I kinda have the urge (I build custom 4wheel drives for a living...) any hoo I have also been looking at the folding @ home project and that is how I first saw this site. I have three machines around the house, all AMD based, two of which are socket 939's. The third is an AMD am2 socket machine with a 6400+ BE processor. It has been running an 8800GTX card but I recently added a second card (thanx again ebay! the digital junkyard!) and just ordered an 850w PSU for it so I am not sure how she will do just yet, any ideas for setup there? I have (ahem) Vista Ultimate 64bit O/S on that machine. I tried that machine in SLI with the 600w PSU first, right after I got the second card, gorgeous! Then, sudden shut down, no BSOD, no nothing, just off. Started it back up and went straight to gaming on it, the excitement of it all had me so, ride 'em into the ground I say! LOL







Anyhow it promptly did it again, and Vista would start up normally, just act as if the power was cut off. It would ask if I wanted to start in safe mode from the BIOS screen... I figured it to be the PSU because it didn't have 4 6-pin PCI-e connectors, just 2 and I had to use a couple of dongle adaptors (they were wired correctly, but I had two adaptors on the same rail, 1 to each card to attempt to spread the load as much as possible) That machine is waiting patiently. The third is an ASUS A8V-VM SE board with a single core AMD 3200+ and a nvidia 8500 512mb card. I figured I would put the 4000+ in it after I found a suitable replacement for this one, and let it fold its ass off 24/7. I really only use it for music to game to... Any-way thank you again for the welcome and I would appreciate any comments/advice I could get. Mike


----------



## kustomkrazykat

I also had a ??? for the racers out there, steering wheel or no? and which one? I have the Logitech momo wheel, but I want the G27 wheel and would like a real-world idea not a rehashed corp. reviewers idea of what rocks... Mike


----------



## BlackOmega

Hey Mike,
Fill out your system specs so that way we can see what you're working with, especially when you try your hand at overclocking. You will need better cooling, that's for sure.

Also, if you could, try to break your text up a little, makes it easier to read.









And yeah, typically when rig shuts down like that, it's usually a lack of power.

As for setup on the dual 8800GTX's, well, all you really need is an SLI bridge, and you might have to enable it in the BIOS. Some boards do it automatically however.
Once again once you fill out your detailed specs, we'll be able to guide you a little better as we'll know what you're working with.

PS: I'm a certified mechanic too.









EDIT: I don't use a steering wheel for video games, just an Xbox 360 controller.


----------



## Blitz6804

I personally use the Playstation 2 Logitech Driving Force when I am racing. I am coveting a G27, but it is a fuzz out of budget. (Read: way too expensive for me.) Most wheels with paddle shifters would work well. While the h-pattern or bump stick shifters are more realistic (sometimes; depends on the car) fiddling with a clutch might not be the best idea for the learning curve. As far as I am concerned, I would want a wheel with several buttons on the face so you can look left, right, or back, e-brake, shift, et cetera without ever taking your hands off the wheel.


----------



## ny_driver

Welcome to the club kustomkrazykat

And Blitz I bet you can find a new or nearly new MS sidewinder FF wheel for cheap. Put a wheel wrap on it and it's great. Has 6 buttons on the front and 2 paddles. The pedals are pretty nice, too.

ooooooohhh........1000 posts, too.


----------



## nategr8ns

I really want a wheel with a clutch, but there's too many things that I want more







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Welcome new member. I sense you may catch some flack from your initials kkk







.

I recently got two of the MOMO Wheels on sale BNIB from Logitech for $44.99 + tax w/free shipping so I purchased 2 of them for less than $100.00 shipped.

I got one for me and one for my guests to use. I love the wheel and am becoming more and more fond of it every time I use it.

I have played GRID, Dirt, Dirt 2, FUEL, ToCA RAce Driver 3, Project Torque, Need 4 Speed High Stakes, Midnight Club II & a few others.

Looking forward to racing w/you.

N2G


----------



## pioneerisloud

Welcome to our club kkk







.

I would say to return that x2 4800+. You probably overpaid for it, those chips usually go for quite a bit because they are the highest clocked X2 for 939.

I would instead look around for an Opteron 170 or 175. No problems with it working with your board. I have a Jetway 939GT4 SLI (same as your BFG pretty much), and my 165 works flawlessly on it. Return that X2 though, it sounds to me like the IMC is damaged if it BSOD's on you after 15 minutes.


----------



## ny_driver

Hi guys. I have a little 939 overclocking question. Could 'Race On' lock up due to a too high CPU overclock, but at the same time could I still be able to ctrl/alt/del-task manager out of the game and just go about my business?

IIRC when it freezes up due to the CPU, the whole system is locked up. I've never been able to do anything when it locked up before.

You see I have my video card clocked 30MHz below artifacts on both core and memory. I know my CPU is not prime stable @ 3Ghz, but it has always run GTR2, and now it's run Race 07', GTR Evo and Race On(all sim-bin games) no problem for days. But today I have had Race On freeze up twice in a relatively short amount of time(~10-15 minutes) each time.

Just trying to ummmmm...find an answer that doesn't require me downclocking my CPU.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
Hi guys. I have a little 939 overclocking question. Could 'Race On' lock up due to a too high CPU overclock, but at the same time could I still be able to ctrl/alt/del-task manager out of the game and just go about my business?

IIRC when it freezes up due to the CPU, the whole system is locked up. I've never been able to do anything when it locked up before.

You see I have my video card clocked 30MHz below artifacts on both core and memory. I know my CPU is not prime stable @ 3Ghz, but it has always run GTR2, and now it's run Race 07', GTR Evo and Race On(all sim-bin games) no problem for days. But today I have had Race On freeze up twice in a relatively short amount of time(~10-15 minutes) each time.

Just trying to ummmmm...find an answer that doesn't require me downclocking my CPU.

Is Race On a port from a console game? If it is, I've noticed that ported games act very strangely when running on an overclocked machine. I have several the do strange stuff, or just flat out not want to run at all. And mind you that is on a 16hour prime stable rig.

With that said, prime stability is very important. While at first it might seem like everything is OK, after a while it will start to corrupt your OS. It's when it transfers the bits of information, it'll write and save errors. Given long enough, the whole OS will be corrupt.

If you're prime stable @ 2.9, run your rig at that speed. The difference between 2.9 and 3.0 will be negligible, and I bet you wouldn't even notice really.


----------



## ny_driver

Well, it's just weird because I have been running it for days, np and all of a sudden my game freezes up twice? That's why I am questioning turning down the cpu. I think it might be something else that maybe reinstalling the game will fix. I've had a couple power outages when my system was on recently.

So, do you think it's possible to still have control of the computer if the cpu causes a game to lock up? Have you ever had that happen?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Well, it's just weird because I have been running it for days, np and all of a sudden my game freezes up twice? That's why I am questioning turning down the cpu. I think it might be something else that maybe reinstalling the game will fix. I've had a couple power outages when my system was on recently.

So, do you think it's possible to still have control of the computer if the cpu causes a game to lock up? Have you ever had that happen?


 It's not a CPU lockup, it's something in the game. It could very well be a bit of code getting looped over and over again, especially if the sound loops with it. If it really was a CPU lockup, then the whole machine would be unresponsive.


----------



## ny_driver

That sounds about right....I think the sound was repeating.I just played GTR Evo for awhile with np. I'll try reinstalling Race On tomorrow.

I like Race On better than GTR Evo or Race 07' because it has a wider variety of F1 cars. Other than that they are pretty much the same. A couple different car classes I guess. I stick to the F1 mostly, so I couldn't really tell you.


----------



## BlackOmega

I'm not a fan of open wheel cars. They just drive so strangely (IMO). It's like they grip too well at mediumhigh speeds, but don't want to turn at all at really high speed. That and the whole wheel on wheel rub launch your car thing kinda freaks me out. Not to mention I was at Michigan International Speedway when a Indy cart lite car hit the wall at ~230MPH lost a wheel that bounced down the track went in to the grandstands and killed 6 people.


----------



## pioneerisloud

This reminds me guys, other than Project Torque, what are some other good racing games that are FREE, that we could all play?


----------



## theCanadian

Trackmania

Edit, Oh nevermind, you said good.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
This reminds me guys, other than Project Torque, what are some other good racing games that are FREE, that we could all play?

Hmm..... no idea there bro. I still have a copy of Hue's NFS install though.









I was meaning to ask ya, how come you're not using that Jetway board since your Asus is smokin?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Hmm..... no idea there bro. I still have a copy of Hue's NFS install though.









I was meaning to ask ya, how come you're not using that Jetway board since your Asus is smokin?

The Jetway board has no NB cooler on it. It's there, but the fan has ceased to work. I'm not about to kill 2 boards







. That and....it doesn't clock NEARLY as high








. 300 HTT is the highest it can go, and I never tested stability that high







.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 
Trackmania

Edit, Oh nevermind, you said good.

Hey...Trackmania is fun, but not what I would personally consider a MP game by any means. It is...but its just not the same as Project Torque or GRID.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
The Jetway board has no NB cooler on it. It's there, but the fan has ceased to work. I'm not about to kill 2 boards







. That and....it doesn't clock NEARLY as high







. 300 HTT is the highest it can go, and I never tested stability that high







.

What style cooler? Just the typical NF4 fan cooler?

Sucks about the refclk limit.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


What style cooler? Just the typical NF4 fan cooler?

Sucks about the refclk limit.










Yeah its just the standard cheapo little teeny tiny aluminum tin can cooler with a 40mm fan I believe on it. The "cooler" is fine (if you want to call it that), but the fan died. I just don't have the balls to run it without a fan for long periods of time. My NB was reading upwards of 80*C last time I used it. I didn't want to kill it, so I unhooked it. It's been sitting in a box since.


----------



## BlackOmega

Looks like it's time for the Vizio chipset cooler.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Looks like it's time for the Vizio chipset cooler.


It would be...if I had the money







. That's $12 I don't have







.


----------



## nova_prime

im so ready to sell my 939 mobo and x2 off....


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


It would be...if I had the money







. That's $12 I don't have







.


 Looks like you'd better start whoring yourself for computer parts.









Hey I read that you an froggy are getting hitched, that true?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nova_prime*


im so ready to sell my 939 mobo and x2 off....


Why is that?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Looks like you'd better start whoring yourself for computer parts.









Hey I read that you an froggy are getting hitched, that true?

Why is that?


Dude, you are WAAAAY behind on times. I haven't been with froggy since......thinks......March of 2009.


----------



## BlackOmega

Well what the fuuuu, it said on steam that you guys were getting hitched. I knew you guys had broken up so I was like


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well what the fuuuu, it said on steam that you guys were getting hitched. I knew you guys had broken up so I was like










Where did it say that? I've got to get to the bottom of this....current GF probably wouldn't like that on there.....


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nova_prime*


im so ready to sell my 939 mobo and x2 off....


Why? That rig is pretty good. Epic HTPC or even a pretty good daily user.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


Why? That rig is pretty good. Epic HTPC or even a pretty good daily user.


No kidding. Undervolt that bad boy a little, run a single card (or a low end ATI card instead), throw a tuner in there...and you've got yourself the ultimate HTPC







.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I'm not a fan of open wheel cars. They just drive so strangely (IMO). It's like they grip too well at mediumhigh speeds, but don't want to turn at all at really high speed. That and the whole wheel on wheel rub launch your car thing kinda freaks me out. Not to mention I was at Michigan International Speedway when a Indy cart lite car hit the wall at ~230MPH lost a wheel that bounced down the track went in to the grandstands and killed 6 people.


I don't know what open wheel cars or game you were driving that didn't handle slendidly, but there are many ways to adjust the steering. My cars grip accordingly and consistantly. Although I don't know what you were using for a controller, IMHO, a steering wheel with FF set up properly is really necessary for a good SIM racing experience.

Again IMHO, open wheel is the ultimate. It goes all the way back to GPL where they ran the equivalent of F1 cars without wings for downforce. Insane those guys were.

My F1 cars in Race 07'/GTR Evo/Race On all handle brilliantly and I have got the controller settings all figured out, so if anyone wants any help let me know.

F1 cars are supposed to handle quite a bit better than other cars which I guess is part of the reason I prefer them....they are easier to drive.









Let's play Race 07'/GTR Evo/Race On


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
I don't know what open wheel cars or game you were driving that didn't handle slendidly, but there are many ways to adjust the steering. My cars grip accordingly and consistantly. Although I don't know what you were using for a controller, IMHO, a steering wheel with FF set up properly is really necessary for a good SIM racing experience.

Again IMHO, open wheel is the ultimate. It goes all the way back to GPL where they ran the equivalent of F1 cars without wings for downforce. Insane those guys were.

My F1 cars in Race 07'/GTR Evo/Race On all handle brilliantly and I have got the controller settings all figured out, so if anyone wants any help let me know.

F1 cars are supposed to handle quite a bit better than other cars which I guess is part of the reason I prefer them....they are easier to drive.









Let's play Race 07'/GTR Evo/Race On









I played the open wheel cars on GRID, probably not the best sim for that. Unfortunately I missed the promo for the combo pack (Dirt2/Race '07 etc.) And was only able to get Dirt 2, with which I was kinda of disappointed since it doesn't have the adjustability that as depicted in the demo









However, as far as open wheel cars are concerned, I suppose I'm more used to throwing a much heavier (3000lbs. as opposed to 1500lbs), sloppier handling car around, relatively to F1 type cars. So it throws off my preconceived notions as to how a car is supposed to handle. I typically account for some loss of grip, whether it be fishtailing or powersliding, so a car that has almost none, for me, is harder to drive believe it or not.

I use an Xbox 360 controller for racing games, I'm kind of a cheapass when it comes to controllers. Hell I waited till the 360 controller was $15 before I bought one.









EDIT:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Where did it say that? I've got to get to the bottom of this....current GF probably wouldn't like that on there.....

The other night when we were all racing and everybody was drunk (except me







), Blitz linked to the I love boobies page and there it said you guys were getting married....And I was like


----------



## ny_driver

Look for a MS sidewinder FF wheel in good shape(basically meaning the rubber isn't worn out) It's an awesome wheel. I've been using this one for years.

There is 1 on ebay now pretty cheap and looks to be in good condition, although not as cheap as I've seen some go for. Buy it now for $50 shipped. It was like $100 new, so $50 is kinda high for as old as it is.

But it will last pretty much forever if it's not abused. I actually have 2 but I use them both. The 2nd one I just use the gas pedal as my clutch.

And if you eventually get 1, I highly recommend you also get a $3 auto parts store wheel wrap. The kind where you wrap the plastic line around it to secure it. Not only will that make it feel more like a real wheel, but it preserves the stupid grippy rubber surface that otherwise wears out.


----------



## Blitz6804

I did not send you the link to the WLB page, but I do know that we came across that somehow.


----------



## Blitz6804

Just as a heads up BlackOmega, the Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB are now on sale for $69.99 shipped to Newegg members with promo code.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Just as a heads up BlackOmega, the Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB are now on sale for $69.99 shipped to Newegg members with promo code.


Are these the same as the 4x HDD's you just got? If so I have a question regarding raid 10. When using raid 10 does the system read from all 4 drives to get data or does it just write to all 4 drives when storing data? I was just thinking if the system reads from all 4 drives then that could slow the system down a bit if reading from all 4 drives at once no?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


I did not send you the link to the WLB page, but I do know that we came across that somehow.


 My apologies Blitz, I thought it was you.


----------



## Blitz6804

I was under the belief that RAID 10 reads the same speed as RAID 0, but writes half as fast. I just ran HD Tach and HD Tune on single drives on my SB600. They score a maximum speed of around 142 MBps, a minimum of about 80 MBps, an a minimum of 121 MBps within the first 37% of the capacity. (I am going to be making a partition 37% in, the rest of the drives will be empty.) Burst speeds of single drives are around 240 MBps.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


I was under the belief that RAID 10 reads the same speed as RAID 0, but writes half as fast. I just ran HD Tach and HD Tune on single drives on my SB600. They score a maximum speed of around 142 MBps, a minimum of about 80 MBps, an a minimum of 121 MBps within the first 37% of the capacity. (I am going to be making a partition 37% in, the rest of the drives will be empty.) Burst speeds of single drives are around 240 MBps.


So you'll have roughly 700 mb of disk space from the 4x 1TB spinpiont HDD's after the raid 10 is configured properly???







Seems like a lot of waisted storage IMO...


----------



## theCanadian

What's the max safe temp for the Opteron 165 (90nm)? Installation of the TT BigTyphoon was a little sloppy, so the paste probably isn't as uniform as I would have like to have been, but I don't want to remount.

Current loading temps after 5 minutes of Prime (and a completely cold heatsink) are 55 C with 2 degrees of difference between the cores. Clamping pressure is pretty high, and this paste performs best under high pressures (IC Diamond 7).

These temps are only at 2255 MHz so before I shoot for 3.0, I want to know what the max safe temp for 90nm is as I have forgotten.

Thanks.

Edit: 25 Minutes later, temps have fallen to 52C. Looks promising for OCing. Hopefully they stay below 65C that would be my comfort zone. But I'm still going to push the chip to the max before I set my 24/7 clock.


----------



## Blitz6804

N2Gaming: 689.4 GB specifically. I really did not need 2 TB, but it was not much more money to go with the 1 TB drives over the 500 GB drives, so I figured it was better to get now in case I needed more space later.

theCanadian: 65Âº C.


----------



## theCanadian

Damn, I wanted more headroom than that.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 
What's the max safe temp for the Opteron 165 (90nm)? Installation of the TT BigTyphoon was a little sloppy, so the paste probably isn't as uniform as I would have like to have been, but I don't want to remount.

Current loading temps after 5 minutes of Prime (and a completely cold heatsink) are 55 C with 2 degrees of difference between the cores. Clamping pressure is pretty high, and this paste performs best under high pressures (IC Diamond 7).

These temps are only at 2255 MHz so before I shoot for 3.0, I want to know what the max safe temp for 90nm is as I have forgotten.

Thanks.

Edit: 25 Minutes later, temps have fallen to 52C. Looks promising for OCing. Hopefully they stay below 65C that would be my comfort zone. But I'm still going to push the chip to the max before I set my 24/7 clock.

As Blitz said 65C is the max allowable.

As for the Tt BT and ICD7, did you lap the BT? I know mine was pretty concave and really rough. It basically _needed_ to be lapped right out of the box.
As for ICD7, there is a cure period, it's about 2 hours. However, before you put the crossbrace over the BT, make sure you push down pretty hard on the heat sink. That was one of the common issues with it. Also, it usually helped to warm it in some boiling water for a few minutes before applying it, it's some pretty thick stuff.
Then when tightening the BT down, try to do it as evenly as possible. So a couple of turns on 1 thumb screw then a couple on the other. Once it starts getting to the point where you can feel it getting harder to turn, do a .5-1 turns per thumbscrew. 1 more thing, don't use a screwdriver on it, I was actually able to get my cross brace to bow just by using finger pressure.

At any rate, good luck.









PS: How are your board temps?


----------



## N2Gaming

We are about to start a GRID game BO...


----------



## BlackOmega

Well I'd join you guys but Ancient Aliens is coming on (it's like the only show I watch). If you guys are still up at 2:00 AM (EST) then I'll join ya.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


As Blitz said 65C is the max allowable.

As for the Tt BT and ICD7, did you lap the BT? I know mine was pretty concave and really rough. It basically _needed_ to be lapped right out of the box. 
As for ICD7, there is a cure period, it's about 2 hours. However, before you put the crossbrace over the BT, make sure you push down pretty hard on the heat sink. That was one of the common issues with it. Also, it usually helped to warm it in some boiling water for a few minutes before applying it, it's some pretty thick stuff. 
Then when tightening the BT down, try to do it as evenly as possible. So a couple of turns on 1 thumb screw then a couple on the other. Once it starts getting to the point where you can feel it getting harder to turn, do a .5-1 turns per thumbscrew. 1 more thing, don't use a screwdriver on it, I was actually able to get my cross brace to bow just by using finger pressure.

At any rate, good luck.









PS: How are your board temps?


I lapped the BT until all but the outer edge was flat. 800 grit.

Temps appear to have leveled off at ~52C with only a single degree difference between the cores, so I'm happy about that. This might not be such a bad mount after all, though the temps could be a little lower. I haven't checked the board temps, but my NB has a passive sink on it, so....

The most important thing to me is that I got rid of that whiny stock heatsink. Right now this tech bench is the quietest setup I have had in 3 or 4 years. And because of that, I think I'm willing to accept a lower overclock. Maybe 2.8Ghz. After all, once you get past that mark, your RTI takes a steep dive.

Edit: Idling at 37C on core 0, 32C on core 1. Not a bad spread when it's all said and done.


----------



## ny_driver

If it breaks 65c by 2-3 degrees during prime testing I wouldn't worry about it because you will never get it that hot with any normal application.

I'd try re-lapping the HS, and I would also definitely lap the CPU because I guarantee it has a low spot in the center right where the core is. I know sandpaper isn't cheap, but you may want to get some 600 grit to start, and some 1000 or 1500 to finish. I got my CPUs pretty shiny using just 600 and 1000. As soon as you start sanding the CPU you will soon notice a low spot and then realize that you have much sanding ahead of you.

Good luck.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


I lapped the BT until all but the outer edge was flat. 800 grit.

Temps appear to have leveled off at ~52C with only a single degree difference between the cores, so I'm happy about that. This might not be such a bad mount after all, though the temps could be a little lower. I haven't checked the board temps, but my NB has a passive sink on it, so....

The most important thing to me is that I got rid of that whiny stock heatsink. Right now this tech bench is the quietest setup I have had in 3 or 4 years. And because of that, I think I'm willing to accept a lower overclock. Maybe 2.8Ghz. After all, once you get past that mark, your RTI takes a steep dive.

Edit: Idling at 37C on core 0, 32C on core 1. Not a bad spread when it's all said and done.


 Even with a passive heatsink on your NB, the fan orientation of the BT helps cool the VRM's and NB. I noticed that with that orientation, it always dropped those temps nicely. And a 1C delta between the cores at load is really nice. But as NY_driver suggested, lapping your CPU would be very beneficial and would drop your temps a lot more since you'd not only make it totally flat, but you'd expose the copper underneath the nickel; copper has the best thermal conductivity of any metal (in case you didn't know







)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


If it breaks 65c by 2-3 degrees during prime testing I wouldn't worry about it because you will never get it that hot with any normal application.

I'd try re-lapping the HS, and I would also definitely lap the CPU because I guarantee it has a low spot in the center right where the core is. I know sandpaper isn't cheap, but you may want to get some 600 grit to start, and some 1000 or 1500 to finish. I got my CPUs pretty shiny using just 600 and 1000. As soon as you start sanding the CPU you will soon notice a low spot and then realize that you have much sanding ahead of you.

Good luck.


 Yep pretty much every AMD IHS is concave that I've checked with my makeshift straight edge. Whether it be my 939's or my AM3, all have a low spot in the very center.

But man you guys start out with some really fine grits. When I lapped my BT I started with 220 and worked my way up from there.

When I lapped my 720, I started with 80







to get it flat, then smoothed it out with 320, 600, 800 1000 and eventually 1500.

Too bad I didn't have any ICD7 on hand at the time, that stuff is some AWESOME polish for after lapping.


----------



## Blitz6804

Actually BlackOmega, I believe silver beats copper by some 5% depending on the temperature. The better statement would be that copper is the best economically viable conducting metal. If I remember right, aluminum is only 59% of copper's conductivity, but it is cheaper, which is why many heatsinks use it.

I do agree that zinc is abysmal, being only 49% of aluminum or 29% of copper. However, unlike elemental copper or aluminum, zinc is fairly resistant to corrosion, thereby oxidizing at a much slower rate. However, when it does oxidize, it only transfers heat one third as well as it normally does, which is why you should always clean your processor prior to installing it.

Elemental nickel is even worse than zinc, coming in at 39% of aluminum, 23% of copper.

But yes, lap it to copper whenever possible.


----------



## Tator Tot

You guys may want to have a look here
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/th...als-d_858.html


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Actually BlackOmega, I believe silver beats copper by some 5% depending on the temperature. The better statement would be that copper is the best economically viable conducting metal. If I remember right, aluminum is only 59% of copper's conductivity, but it is cheaper, which is why many heatsinks use it.

I do agree that zinc is abysmal, being only 49% of aluminum or 29% of copper. However, unlike elemental copper or aluminum, zinc is fairly resistant to corrosion, thereby oxidizing at a much slower rate. However, when it does oxidize, it only transfers heat one third as well as it normally does, which is why you should always clean your processor prior to installing it.

Elemental nickel is even worse than zinc, coming in at 39% of aluminum, 23% of copper.

But yes, lap it to copper whenever possible.

Ahh you're right. It just barely beats it out. But good luck finding a silver heat sink.


----------



## Blitz6804

Sure, why not? The United States army borrowed some 15,000 pounds of silver from the US treasury for the Manhattan Project due to a shortage of copper. I am surprised someone like Thermalright has not jumped on this: Why pay $110 for a TRUE-120 Copper when for the low, low price of $1430 you can get a heatsink that performs about five percent better!

(Computed price based on the TRUE-120 Copper weighing in at 1900 g, silver being 17.1875% more dense, and a price of $18.20 an ounce.)


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Sure, why not? The United States army borrowed some 15,000 pounds of silver from the US treasury for the Manhattan Project due to a shortage of copper. I am surprised someone like Thermalright has not jumped on this: Why pay $110 for a TRUE-120 Copper when for the low, low price of $1430 you can get a heatsink that performs about five percent better!

(Computed price based on the TRUE-120 Copper weighing in at 1900 g, silver being 17.1875% more dense, and a price of $18.20 an ounce.)

Oh you.....









You are completely forgetting about mark up on something like that. Being all silver, you KNOW they'd market it to the super SUPER high end crowds. That thing that SHOULD cost $1430, would likely be marked up to at LEAST $1600 or so..just because of the fact that it'd be all silver.

EDIT:
BTW, you know I just







your math







. But sometimes it is indeed flawed







.


----------



## Kryton

Just head down to the local coin shop and buy some old silver coins in poor shape and you should be able to get these cheaply enough.
The silver content is what matters but be aware that although most silver coinage has a 90% silver content, Kennedy halves from 1965 to 1970 are only 45% silver. All others are 90% and all with dates from 1964 and earlier are of 90% silver composition. 
You can also buy silver in bars or coins of .999 pure silver composition and I do have a few of those here too. 
I would suggest though using the 90% composition coins for smelting and forming things with since the other 10% metal composition makes it durable. Silver alone is a soft metal, almost plastic-like in how it feels and won't stand up to alot of wear and pressure on it's own without deforming or wearing too readily.

I know someone that's used silver for such a purpose and it did show an improvement in temps. They took an old coin, lapped it smooth and used it as a spacer is how they did it.


----------



## ny_driver

Good morning.

Just a quick 939 note, which I'm sure has probably been noted before: 
I get better FPS all the way around with 2 x 1GB @ DDR500/3-3-2-8-1T than I do with 4 x 1GB @ DDR400/3-3-3-8-2T. I didn't run any benchmarks, but I can tell.

a little O/T: with vsync enabled my FPS seems to be capped @ ~60, not 30. The highest I've seen it go is 62 I think. Averaging over 40FPS with vsync on.......and turning it off the only place I see FPS gains is during loading and stuff. Who needs 300FPS while the game loads?









Ohh also an EDIT for ya: hah!---my system will not run right with 273x11=3003, although the memory passes memtest @ 274. The system runs fine @ 250x12=3000. I guess I better go try 273x10. And yes I tried adjusting the HTT, NB voltage, and DDR voltage. 
Update later.................
UPDATE:wow these Mushkin DDR500 sticks will not even run windows @ DDR540. Even at 3-4-4-8 and 2.9v. I'm not very impressed. I guess I got spoiled by my DDR400 OCZ Platinum that do DDR500 no problem. These Mushkin are for sale and I'll just stick with the OCZ.

I will say that Mushkin replaced the bad modules very, very fast.


----------



## SwishaMane

K guys, can you help me?

I just bricked the bios on my new ultra-d, but no biggie, can get replacement on ebay. Thing is, I tried flashing a bios to get my ES to recognize, and it was a modded beta. Figured I would hot swap flash with my other 939 board to fix bios and be on my way, nope... I tried all the different combos you can, I thought it worked through winflash 1.76, but turns out, no... lol Will the newest bios that comes on a new replacement bios chip, recognize my ES you think? The bios on the board was old, but not OLD old, supported the x2 3800 nicely. Im just frustrated... I just want my ES to run on this mobo!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*


K guys, can you help me?

I just bricked the bios on my new ultra-d, but no biggie, can get replacement on ebay. Thing is, I tried flashing a bios to get my ES to recognize, and it was a modded beta. Figured I would hot swap flash with my other 939 board to fix bios and be on my way, nope... I tried all the different combos you can, I thought it worked through winflash 1.76, but turns out, no... lol Will the newest bios that comes on a new replacement bios chip, recognize my ES you think? The bios on the board was old, but not OLD old, supported the x2 3800 nicely. Im just frustrated... I just want my ES to run on this mobo!


I don't see why the latest official BIOS wouldn't support it personally. However it IS an "ES" chip, so its hard saying.

And I thought you had it working previously? I could have sworn I saw some screenshots of an ES not too long ago in here.....


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*


Sweet, A64Info pulled up some extra info on my ES, check it out. 90nm, Toledo, JH9-E6...

EDIT: Sweet, rig just passed 1 hour OCCT Linpack again on new tccds, 238x12 for 2.856ghz, new highest stable OC! Check cpu-z.

I switched them to the first two dual channel slots since they are low profile enough to fit under horizontally mounted Xiggy cooler. Rig seems to be performing better in first channel.









EDIT #2: Ok, ES just passed 1 hour OCCT at 240x11 for first time. I think switching RAM slots was way to go.







I'm about to start up 30 min passes again til I fail, and go for highest stable CPU freq. and DRAM freq. I'm hoping for 275x11, but LOL, doubt.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*


kk, I got 240x12 last night for 2.880ghz, right? Well, I passed a 30 min occt at 242x11, and it was great. Ran it at 242x12 for 2.907ghz, and error like 15 mins in. Try again this morning after letting rig rest, with increased vcore, only 15 mins stable. I'm at 224x13 for 2.914ghz now, and I'm already 25 mins stable. This chip or mobo, (most likely chip, thanks to pioneerisloud, pfft) is maxing out in the 240-242 range depending on cpu freq. My highest stable OC on this chip will be low fsb, 13x related, or highest fsb (240) x 12 most likely. I'm still going for highest cPU freq, while keeping fsb in range system has proven to be stable, so I got room to work. Just disappointed in max fsb on this chip. We'll see with new mobo eventually, just to make sure it's not mobo related SOMEHOW.

EDIT: Rig just passed 1 hour linpack at 2.914ghz, w00t. Obviously something is going on at 240-242. I'm gonna bump it up to 226 and see whats up, lol...


I don't understand what you mean by trying to get the "ES" chip to recognize? If you mean be recognized it looks to me that it was recognized and working fine two weeks ago....it is what it is, an Engineering Sample just like cpuz etc...says it is. I don't think a new bios will make cpuz call that "ES" an Opteron.









I don't see why a hot-flash wouldn't work....it sounds easy enough









EDIT: I was just reading about your build and wanted to compliment you on the window. I've been wanting to put a window in my case, too. I'm going to get a piece of plexiglass custom cut and beveled because I have to put it on the outside. My window is going to be approximately the shape of a doughnut with my 120mm intake fan in the corner. I will be unique at the very least.


----------



## SwishaMane

Well, the ES ran on my old Asus board, but isnt running in the Ultra-D. Turned out,t he bios ont he ultra-D wasnt the latest, and after FINALLY getting the BIOS to flash, I got the board upa nd running again, this time ont he 3800x2, and I cant get the system stable at stock. Tried the ES, the third diag. LED stays lit with beep sound, same as it did before when it wouldnt recognise the ES. So I'm stumped, I'm gonna need some sort of modded or beta bios probably. Any ideas?

Its pissing me off that I cant even get the board stable on stock settings. This is really gonna make me mad if I have to sell this Ultra-D for a f***ing Asus SLi Deluxe...

Thanks on the window. A lot of people have been overlooking the OCN logo I had embeded into the design. I think I have a stand alone pic of it somewhere int he log. LOL, noobs here man...







I had it custom ordered an laser engraved. I think the piece was about $120 shipped int he end, less than that, but exactly IDK. NAgoshi helped me with the design and vectoring it to scale for the company that did it. A link to the company who did it is posted int he credits on my build log for this AM3. I'm still happy with this rig, even after all this time, the rig still has that "SWEET" feeling to it whenever I see it, its like, OH YEAH, finally got a computer worth having.









EDIT: Epic fail for me... DL'ed newest official BIOS off of DFI's website, well, no post or anything with 4200x2... Mebbe just needs whole new bios chip? Cause I've been haivng weird problems with keyboard/mouse too... That or this board is junk as ****!


----------



## theCanadian

I think there is something wrong with the VRM's on my PURE. If I set the vcore to 1.6v, it doesn't even clear 1.4v. Goodbye 3.0 OC









EDIT: Goodbye any OC above what I have now....


----------



## ny_driver

That really stinks. Have you been taking your voltage readings with a meter? And are there any vcore overvoltage settings or anything? Post a screenshot of your main BIOS page with all the important settings.

EDIT: I just cut some windows in the side of my case, what do you guys think?
I was going to get some custom cut and beveled plexi-glass and screw it to the outside, but I think it's fine with open windows seeing how the side cover has been off ever since I switched to water.

I think I need a couple more lights so the pictures come out better. I can't figure out how to turn on the flash on my camera phone(Samsung Alias 2).

EDIT: 2 new pics added


----------



## N2Gaming

ny-driver the cuts looks cool. I just don't see how that fan on the outside can help out much w/that block of metal in front of it.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


ny-driver the cuts looks cool. I just don't see how that fan on the outside can help out much w/that block of metal in front of it.


The metal looks to be cut around the fan.

Looks good Driver. Now you have to be extra-anal about cable management though







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Wow nate you can see that. You must have some Super Duper steller E-X-Ray vision


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


ny-driver the cuts looks cool. I just don't see how that fan on the outside can help out much w/that block of metal in front of it.


The side cover is all plastic. I'm not sure what metal you were speaking of. 
I agree the outside fan doesn't do much, but it was already there so I left it.

EDIT:actually I take that back....the outside fan is cooling off the NB heatsink. I had an 80mm in there for that, but now I don't need it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


The metal looks to be cut around the fan.

Looks good Driver. Now you have to be extra-anal about cable management though







.


I am generally pretty careful about the cabling. I stuffed all the extra cables up behind my dvd drive and there are no lights up there. Some are behind the pump. I moved the lights which were just dangling since I took the pictures. I'll add new pics later.

Thanks for the compliments.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
That really stinks. Have you been taking your voltage readings with a meter? And are there any vcore overvoltage settings or anything? Post a screenshot of your main BIOS page with all the important settings.

I don't have a multi meter, but the BIOS is kicking back huge vdroop and I cant even get 260*9 to post, and this chip has apparently hit 3.0 before so I'm guessing the readings are mostly accurate.

I'll see if I can get some screen shots.


----------



## ny_driver

Something smells rotten if 260x9 doesn't post. Obviously you have tried lowering the memory and HT link. What do you mean apparently hit 3Ghz before?

That darn 9x multiplier would kill me.







EDIT: you can get a cheap multi-meter for under $10 I bet. And maybe your PSU is slacking even though it should be able to handle your system.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Wow nate you can see that. You must have some Super Duper steller E-X-Ray vision










I'm pretty sure at least. That's what it looks like from this picture.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Something smells rotten if 260x9 doesn't post. Obviously you have tried lowering the memory and HT link. What do you mean apparently hit 3Ghz before?

That darn 9x multiplier would kill me.







EDIT: you can get a cheap multi-meter for under $10 I bet. And maybe your PSU is slacking even though it should be able to handle your system.


Well I've definately lowered the memory, but I can't seem to find the HT link. I remember the board having settings for that, but I could be mistaken It's been a while since I've used it. But I *do* know I've used an FSB of 345 on this board before. See?

The previous owner ran it at 3.0 under water.

Edit: I've considered the PSU, but:


This PSU is overkill for this rig
I'm told this is one of the better constructed models that Rosewill makes.


----------



## ny_driver

Looks like you had the HT multi set @ 2 in that CPUZ shot. I believe the HT link would be the same as the rated FSB. You should be able to raise the HT multi to 3 no problem at 345 FSB. That doesn't really help with the issue at hand however.









I wish I had more suggestions.

-I guess I'd try taking out 1 stick of memory and see if it acts any different.

-And do you have any other 939 chips you could test the boards current FSB capabilities with? Or another board to test the chip on?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 
Well I've definately lowered the memory, but I can't seem to find the HT link. I remember the board having settings for that, but I could be mistaken It's been a while since I've used it. But I *do* know I've used an FSB of 345 on this board before. See?

The previous owner ran it at 3.0 under water.

Edit: I've considered the PSU, but:


This PSU is overkill for this rig
I'm told this is one of the better constructed models that Rosewill makes.

Check what your HT Link is running at in CPUz. It sounds like you probably need to turn it down a notch or two. The ATI chipset boards don't really like super high HT Links (most 939's don't anyway).

And yes, that PSU should be MORE than sufficient. Rosewill did in fact leak out a few decent units







.


----------



## ny_driver

Hey Pio, 3GHz on 1.36v in just insane. You getting that reading off a meter? What stepping is that chip? All my Optys want more voltage. I can only ever run like +300MHz on stock voltage.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Hey Pio, 3GHz on 1.36v in just insane. You getting that reading off a meter? What stepping is that chip? All my Optys want more voltage. I can only ever run like +300MHz on stock voltage.


That reading is from Everest Ultimate. I have it set to 1.35v in BIOS (stock), since that's all this board will allow since the VRM's are shot.

Stepping is LCBQE. It only requires 1.225v for 2.8GHz, and 1.125v for 2.7GHz. I still believe very strongly that this is a 3.2GHz stable chip, my board just can't do it.


----------



## theCanadian

^ epic chip is epic.

If I were to get a multimeter, where would I take the readings from?


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I still believe very strongly that this is a 3.2GHz stable chip, my board just can't do it.


Sounds like one heck of a chip. The one I have is 3Ghz stable in everything I've tried except prime and codemasters games(2.8 for them), but it needs 1.6v







It won't even consider 3.1GHz








Probably build a newer computer this fall. I hope it lasts that long.

EDIT:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


^ epic chip is epic.

If I were to get a multimeter, where would I take the readings from?


You would stick the black probe on a bare metal spot on your case, and the red probe at the base of any of the 3 mosfets. Right where it sticks into the board. Be very careful probing around, you could cause a short.


----------



## theCanadian

WOOOOOOOOOOOT!

Typing now at 280*9 at 1.45v. It doesn't feel stable, but that could be the lag from booting up. I was so happy that it worked, the very first thing I did was post this.

"LDT Bus Control" wasn't under overclocking features, it was under chipset options. I've dropped it down to "400 MHz", or a multi of two. Ram is at DDR360 right now.

Ok, now it's had a chance to boot. Been prime95 stable for the past couple minutes. If it holds up I'm going to see how high I can get the voltage before the VRM crap out and drop it back down. Then I'll work on pushing the FSB a little more. If I can reach 2.8 I'll be happy. Even 2.7 would be great, knowing that my VRM's are probably messed up.

Edit: And this RAM! It's spec'd to run at DDR400 at 3-3-3-8 1T. It does DDR500 at 3-3-2-8 1T

Super happy right now.


----------



## ny_driver

280 x 2 is only 560. Why set the HT link/LDT bus control so low? You could easily do 3 if not 4. Try 4 and if not seeming stable go back to 3.
I don't know that much about it, but you should definitely have that as high as possible. Otherwise you are limiting the amount of information that can pass through. Seems like it might even interfere with the overclock. Please correct me if I am wrong.

EDIT: it says right here http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/S...A9RD480/2.html that the FSB(meaning HT link) is rated at 800MHz, but capable of 1000+...unless I am reading it wrong.


----------



## theCanadian

Well, it can certainly do 1000, we saw that when the multi was still at 4 and I had the FSB at 250, but this is still just a preliminary OC. I want to make sure that everything is running smoothly. Remember, this is the first chance I've had at this chip, and it's been a while since I've played with this board. I'll set it up properly once I set the 24/7 clock.

And I've never heard of a low HT Link limiting an OC. I could understand if I was running a 1x mulit on the HT Link, but 560 should be adequate for now, I've had it lower before.

280*9 seems to be stable enough to get through a couple percentages of [email protected] SMP2, I'll be bumping things up later today. It feels weird though, having to get a voltage set *before* I up the FSB. Usually I do it the other way around.

Edit: BTW, my board is the PC-A9RD480 *R2* with the blue PCB. The white PCB looks awesome, but the R2 apparently performs better. So I hear.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
You would stick the black probe on a bare metal spot on your case, and the red probe at the base of any of the 3 mosfets. Right where it sticks into the board. Be very careful probing around, you could cause a short.

Sorry, I'm not used to sticking metal probes into my board. I've always been a "plug it in and OC" type guy. A picture perhaps?

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1204895

Temps look bad right now. I'll probably have to do a remount. Perhaps even some lapping.

68C after just a couple minutes of prime95 at 2.7Ghz.


----------



## ny_driver

Looks like there are 4 on your board. Only 3 on all my boards. The things I circled. That's what the mosfets looked like on all my other boards...they have heatsinks on my current one. 
Test it and see, just make sure you have good lighting and are careful to just touch the mosfet and not short anything on the board. I keep saying that because when I wasn't careful I caused a short on another board. You may have to wiggle the probe around a little to get it in the right spot.....lol, it's simple.


----------



## theCanadian

Ok, yeah, that's what I thought you meant, but I had 4 so I wasn't sure. Thanks.

I'm about to do the remount, I have a feeling my paste is going to look like one of these improperly apply pastes. Going with AS5 this time. It's cheaper. But I'm still expecting a drop in temps after the horrendous mounting job I did.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


Going with AS5 this time. It's cheaper.


be very careful w/that AS5 because it is conductive and is known for causing short cicuits.


----------



## theCanadian

Great. I've done the remount. Temps don't appear to have improved much... and now it doesn't even want to do 275*9. Like, it won't post at all. It was quite stable at 300*9 before.

I think it's the board, just being temperamental.

I picked up a multi-meter, and there is some definite droop.

If I set it to 1.35v, it droops to 1.32
If I set it to 1.45v, it droops to 1.40
If I set it to 1.50v, it droops to 1.42
If I set it to 1.60v, it droops to 1.40

However, if I set it to 1.35v + 0.14v it stays at 1.45v which is still pretty bad, but ok overall.

I just hope this board starts picking up the slack soon....


----------



## theCanadian

*Sigh* The board is definitely being temperamental.

Running prime95 at 300*9 now, I just took a reading at full GPU and CPU load, 1.507v while set at 1.35v+0.14v = 1.49v, so it is in fact not drooping at all right now. This is truly weird. I'm almost scared to reboot ha ha.


----------



## ny_driver

My voltage goes way up when running s&m, and probably when it needs it.....dunno for sure. I put the meter on my board just now and it reads 1.59v steadily as long as I hold it on there. But I can look at HWMonitor at the same time and watch it go up and down...it says the high is 1.62 and the low 1.50.

Weird I just tested again and they all read 1.59v, but if I test the opposite side of the one where I can reach both sides I get 1.54v. I would test both sides just to see.


----------



## theCanadian

... Hmmm I've been taking readings randomly, and sometimes the voltage is really stable (+/- .002v) other times it jitters by as much as .05v. I don't know what to make of this. It's been under the same load for hours ([email protected] SMP and GPU2).


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


EDIT: I just cut some windows in the side of my case, what do you guys think?
I was going to get some custom cut and beveled plexi-glass and screw it to the outside, but I think it's fine with open windows seeing how the side cover has been off ever since I switched to water.

I think I need a couple more lights so the pictures come out better. I can't figure out how to turn on the flash on my camera phone(Samsung Alias 2).

EDIT: 2 new pics added


 Lookin good man.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


be very careful w/that AS5 because it is conductive and is known for causing short cicuits.


 That it does.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


Great. I've done the remount. Temps don't appear to have improved much...


 AS5 takes up to 200 hours to cure. IT also requires that it's heat cycled, meaning that it has to go back to room temp, then get heated up, then room temp etc. BTW, 200 hours with proper heat cycling can take up to 2weeks.








That's the main reason I stopped using as5.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


... Hmmm I've been taking readings randomly, and sometimes the voltage is really stable (+/- .002v) other times it jitters by as much as .05v. I don't know what to make of this. It's been under the same load for hours ([email protected] SMP and GPU2).


 As was mentioned before, I think it's your PSU. Even though that is one of the better ones that Rosewill makes, it's still a rosewill. 
When I got my PCP&C 750w, I was able to get another 200MHz from my old 165 @ the same voltage. PSU's are very important. I learned the hard way, now I'll never skimp on one again. Hence I'm running the Seasonic.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Lookin good man.









That it does.

AS5 takes up to 200 hours to cure. IT also requires that it's heat cycled, meaning that it has to go back to room temp, then get heated up, then room temp etc. BTW, 200 hours with proper heat cycling can take up to 2weeks.








That's the main reason I stopped using as5.

As was mentioned before, I think it's your PSU. Even though that is one of the better ones that Rosewill makes, it's still a rosewill.
When I got my PCP&C 750w, I was able to get another 200MHz from my old 165 @ the same voltage. PSU's are very important. I learned the hard way, now I'll never skimp on one again. Hence I'm running the Seasonic.









Normally I would agree with you on the PSU aspect. But just because its a Rosewill unit, doesn't mean its bad. I believe it's made by FSP. I'll google it in just a second







.

EDIT:
I found a review on the RP500-2 unit (same exact thing as TheCanadians...just 100w less), at johnnyguru. You might be amazed at how good those "crappy" Rosewill units actually are







.

TheCanadian:
There's nothing wrong with your PSU...just so long as its in full working order. Obviously if you've overheated the caps, or its a REALLY old unit, it'll be likely to fail. But according to that review above...its a phenomenal budget unit.

Oh, and its CWT built.


----------



## theCanadian

@BlackOmega

I have do doubt that this PSU would limit my OC compared to a much higher quality unit. But at 2.7GHz, I should be having no trouble on a proven 3.0 chip. I have a distinct feeling that I could be running at 2.7GHz with far less voltage than I am now, but I'm to scared to shut down and lower it for fear that I wont be able to get it to POST again. I think the issue here is the VRMs. I've demonstrated that here. I'm just not sure what would cause them to behave the way they are, both in that chart, and the way the voltage jitter is intermittent.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 
@BlackOmega

I have do doubt that this PSU would limit my OC compared to a much higher quality unit. But at 2.7GHz, I should be having no trouble on a proven 3.0 chip. I have a distinct feeling that I could be running at 2.7GHz with far less voltage than I am now, but I'm to scared to shut down and lower it for fear that I wont be able to get it to POST again. I think the issue here is the VRMs. I've demonstrated that here. I'm just not sure what would cause them to behave the way they are, both in that chart, and the way the voltage jitter is intermittent.

You want to talk about dead VRMs.......(looks in sig....)


----------



## ny_driver

Well......theCanadian, now that you have a multi-meter it's time to test the voltage on each line of your PSU. Do you know how to hot-wire the PSU so it runs without being hooked to the system? Connect pins 13 and 14 with a piece of wire. I think it is the only green wire and any black wire will do for your ground.

What you need to do is google how to test out a PSU and you will find a chart with the acceptable voltage tolerances for each line eg. 12v, 5v, and 3.3v. You hot-wire the PSU, after disconnecting everything, then touch the black probe to ground and the red one to each of the colored wires in your 20/24 pin mobo connector. Write down each reading and compare to your chart. Then you will know if your PSU is slacking and where.

You do not have to hot-wire it to test...in fact I tested a PSU once while running prime. If you want to test it under load as well, just stick the red probe into each hole in the backside of the 20/24 pin connector, while the black is grounded of course. Not as dangerous as it sounds. I'd lay my computer on it's side.

If you have any questions about it I'll be around.


----------



## theCanadian

I have a techbench so it was cake. Everything is pretty well withing spec. Its the board I'm almost positive. This board has always been a little temperamental, particularly when you're changing settings. Even from the day I got it. But there was never anything actually wrong with it until now. To be honest, I'm not that let down. It's an aging board and these things happen. I'm just glad it still runs. I'll give it a couple weeks at 2.7GHz before I bump it up anymore.

There was actually a wire or
two that when I tested caused a reboot. The silver lining here is that I learned the board now likes to post at the current overclock. So I have no qualms about shutting down now.

And I took another reading of the vcore today. Rock solid readings across the board. Looks like it just had the flu.







But only time will tell.


----------



## BlackOmega

That's actually what I was alluding to was that perhaps your PSU was failing. OOC, is it making any noise? Also, what temp would you guesstimate that the PSU is at whist testing? While it might be rock solid at lets say 30C, once you hit 40C+ it might flake out on ya.

Hmmm......now might be a good time to sell off my 939 stuffs


----------



## N2Gaming

I just got my 3rd Momo Wheel delivered last night and am about to start my hardware tests to make sure it's all good before giving posative feed back to the ebayer that sold it to me for get this $17.99 plus $16.25 s/h total cost $34.24 and the only thing wrong w/it as far as I can tell is it don't have the power supply. No worries though, I already have one on the way from Logitech. I just love Logitech...

Oh in other news I also just bought another " BNIB from the egg " Antec 900 case for $57.99 After MIR and it come w/a Lite On DVD Burner. Woo hoo...it should be here in a few days so I can complete a build and have 3 race rigs built for some GRID action.









*Edit*: Momo wheel works dandy. I do detect an ever so slightly noticeable amount of free play from left to right but it's almost so slight that if it did not make a little tap when turned from left to right or back from right to left I would not even be able to detect it.

It almost seems like theres a magnet and some plastic gears that may be showing signs of normal usage. My new momo's have this same play but not as detectable. So I'm gonna chalk it up to normal wear as the wheel works great w/one exception though. When the wheels red stripe is centered at top the cars want to make a slight turn to the left. It's not much but noticeable. I wonder if the internals are adjustable???

*Edit 2:* Well being the curious person that I am, I decided to take the ebay Momo apart for learning purposes and found out that the wheel centering position sensor is *not *adjustable. The wheel seems to be very well designed and from the looks of the inners I made the conclusion that these wheels are not gonna break very easy. The only things I can see going wrong w/these wheels is either the motor for the force feed back goes bad or the cables get damaged from abuse.

While I had the wheel apart I discovered that there is two sensors, one to detect the motion of the wheel when turned " it's placed at the motor " and a second on the wheel shaft to detect the wheels center position.

I decided to try to adjust the wheel sensor by placing a thin paper shim under the circuit board that has the centering sensor on it to correct the problem. It worked









All is good now.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


That's actually what I was alluding to was that perhaps your PSU was failing. OOC, is it making any noise? Also, what temp would you guesstimate that the PSU is at whist testing? While it might be rock solid at lets say 30C, once you hit 40C+ it might flake out on ya.

Hmmm......now might be a good time to sell off my 939 stuffs










Well, I read that there were only supposed to be three different voltages. So I just tested for thost. I didn't read which wires to test. A couple wires are labeled COMM. If they were communication cables, I could see how testing them could cause a reboot.


----------



## ny_driver

There are only 3 voltages. Weird how it rebooted. Comm = ground if they were PSU wires.


----------



## theCanadian

Oh yeah. Common ground. Well. I wasn't using the PSU's ground. I was using a ground on the chassis (I/O panel). Perhaps putting a ground on a ground upsets the board?

Anyway. All the voltages were within spec.


----------



## pioneerisloud

TheCanadian:
Perhaps you just simply didn't have your multimeter connected all the way when you were doing your testing? I know when I'm testing the AC voltage on my amplifiers, if one of the probes isn't touching properly, I'll get some odd readings. I have my sub amp set to 44v AC power, I've seen it drop down to around 25-30v AC when I'm testing...just because one of the probes came unhooked ever so slightly.

Make 100% sure that your probes are connected properly. And it'd be a lot easier to get a good reading if you tested your ground WIRE instead of a chassis ground. Even though computer cases are all metal, they're painted as well. So your chassis may not be a great grounding point (cars are obviously diferent).

Hopefully this helps







.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


TheCanadian:
Perhaps you just simply didn't have your multimeter connected all the way when you were doing your testing? I know when I'm testing the AC voltage on my amplifiers, if one of the probes isn't touching properly, I'll get some odd readings. I have my sub amp set to 44v AC power, I've seen it drop down to around 25-30v AC when I'm testing...just because one of the probes came unhooked ever so slightly.

Make 100% sure that your probes are connected properly. And it'd be a lot easier to get a good reading if you tested your ground WIRE instead of a chassis ground. * Even though computer cases are all metal,* they're painted as well. So your chassis may not be a great grounding point (cars are obviously diferent).

Hopefully this helps







.










WOOD techbench. I was literally touching the shield for the USB/1394. And how are cars different?

But I feel you on the iffy probing (no I'm not saying I want to touch you). I tend to get the most stable reading when I have the probes touching vertically.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*









WOOD techbench. I was literally touching the shield for the USB/1394. And how are cars different?

But I feel you on the iffy probing (no I'm not saying I want to touch you). I tend to get the most stable reading when I have the probes touching vertically.


Okay, well being a WOOD tech station, that I/O shield isn't a very good ground then. Start testing with your ground probes on your ground wires off the PSU. I'll bet you'll have more accurate results.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


Well, *I read that there were only supposed to be three different voltages.* So I just tested for thost. I didn't read which wires to test. A couple wires are labeled COMM. If they were communication cables, I could see how testing them could cause a reboot.


 What I was getting at is at what temperature are those voltages taken at.

What could be happening is that your PSU or part of it are getting too hot and causing major ripple or voltage drop.

With these summer months ambients are so high that my case temp was getting to 30-40C, that's actual temperature of the metal not the air within the case, well since I put the sides back on.


----------



## theCanadian

You make a good point. I took the readings at full load while my room was as warm as it is on average, and this PSU has a temperature controlled fan. If it gets too hot, it kicks into high gear, and that hasn't happened.

However, I manually set the fan to high speed and the voltages are no more stable than before.

I also found the +12v mosfet thing (ny_driver called them mosfets, but google images brings up something different). It reads: 11.7v which is well withing spec, but not as good as some.


----------



## Sin100

I did get my 3200+ to 2.6GHz but that was a long time ago and I no longer have the chip (so I can't post proof, though it's not as if it's insanely high anyway).


----------



## spamination

I don't run it anymore, but loved my opteron 185 and asus a8n-sli deluxe. 
I used that computer for 7 years.

please add me.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sin100* 
I did get my 3200+ to 2.6GHz but that was a long time ago and I no longer have the chip (so I can't post proof, though it's not as if it's insanely high anyway).


Quote:


Originally Posted by *spamination* 
I don't run it anymore, but loved my opteron 185 and asus a8n-sli deluxe.
I used that computer for 7 years.

please add me.

You guys could both easily be added under "Socket 939 Nostalgics", if you can provide a recent screenshot or CPUz link, you could be added under current members. You need to be actually running a 939 rig to be on the members list...but anybody who has run a 939 rig can be on the Nostalgics list







.


----------



## SwishaMane

I asked OP about nastalgic status for my ES when EVER I can get it done,b ut never heard back? Do you think its worthy Pioneer?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*


I asked OP about nastalgic status for my ES when EVER I can get it done,b ut never heard back? Do you think its worthy Pioneer?


Honestly, I would LOVE to see that ES running







. And the reason you haven't heard back yet is because txtmstrjoe I believe is currently in a long moving process. I'm sure he'll get to your PM once he has the time to







. He just said about a week or two ago that there's a lot of people missing off the roster, and that he'd get to it once he's settled in







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Has any one ever heard of or played the game Pure? It looks like a load of fun for $5.00


----------



## ny_driver

Looks great...reminds me of this game I used to play some on a friends playstation thing years ago. Jeremy McGrath racing or something. If I can figure out a way to attach some handlebars to my steering wheel I might play something like that.








.
EDIT: I want a good snowmobiling game.


----------



## Blitz6804

Sin100 and spamination: I have marked your names down. As Pioneerisloud said, you can only be a "nostalgic" without a verification of some kind. I will gladly add you to that list when I finally stop putting off my backlog. (I have not updated the off-site roster since February.) Once I finish the off-site, I will work up a revised on-site and send to txtmstrjoe to see if he wants to just swap that in or rework it himself.

SwishaMane: You have already submitted verification for your ES, and are pending to be added in the active members section.

All: I am currently doing bar review, and might force myself to update the roster this evening. The problem is that the HTML that I edit is currently on my desktop (not the laptop) and that computer is currently in the process of transferring data from the 750 GB to the RAID 10, so I have to find where I put it...


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Jeremy McGrath racing or something like that.

















I use to have that on PS


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sin100*


I did get my 3200+ to 2.6GHz but that was a long time ago and I no longer have the chip (so I can't post proof, though it's not as if it's insanely high anyway).


You know Sin, a single core 939 rig would be nice to have as a dedicated Diablo II rig







.
I've just recently gotten back into it, I've got a lvl 11 cold Sorc







.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
You know Sin, a single core 939 rig would be nice to have as a dedicated Diablo II rig







.
I've just recently gotten back into it, I've got a lvl 11 cold Sorc







.

Nice. I haven't played D2 in quite a while. They were doing some sort of testing a while back so you could run at greater resolutions than 800x600. Running @ 800x600 on my monitor made me







it looked so bad.

Didn't they do stuff with the classes so now you _have_ to have different classes. Like they made some monsters that are basically almost immune to everything (physical, magic, elemental).

Back in the day I had 5 accounts with all level 70+. My highest was a level 94 Hammerdin, but now they gimped them too.


----------



## Chuckclc

Wow, i didnt know there was a thread about 939 here. As of about 5 months ago my rig was a socket 939 4000+, 2gb of kingston ddr mem, with an abit sli mobo, a x1900xtx radeon, with a 74gb raptor hd, (oh wait, still have that)


----------



## bodunchar

Greetings honorable ones!
I humbly call upon the mighty 939 Appreciation Club Mighty Members Wisdom once more!

1) Coming to griefs upgrading cpu, no surprise there then as my board is, *cough* getting on 6 years old (and still runs latest games)









So then, theres this site that says they have an OEM Athlon 64X2 5000+ that "comes in... ...socket 939 flavour... http://3btech.net/oemamdat64x21.html

Poor old me is confused as ASUS and AMD say that there is only 4800+ which of course will do me but they (3btech) dont have one!


----------



## ny_driver

The 5000+ is not socket 939...it is AM2. Athlon 64 processors come in 939, but not the 5000+. Here you can see all the Athlon X2 socket 939 processors. There are other high end 939 processors such as the dual core FX series, and the Opteron 165-185 series(which is probably your best bet). http://products.amd.com/en-us/deskto...alse&f12=False
Any questions just ask. Somebody will answer.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chuckclc* 
Wow, i didnt know there was a thread about 939 here. As of about 5 months ago my rig was a socket 939 4000+, 2gb of kingston ddr mem, with an abit sli mobo, a x1900xtx radeon, with a 74gb raptor hd, (oh wait, still have that)











Quote:


Originally Posted by *bodunchar* 
Greetings honorable ones!
I humbly call upon the mighty 939 Appreciation Club Mighty Members Wisdom once more!

1) Coming to griefs upgrading cpu, no surprise there then as my board is, *cough* getting on 6 years old (and still runs latest games)









So then, theres this site that says they have an OEM Athlon 64X2 5000+ that "comes in... ...socket 939 flavour... http://3btech.net/oemamdat64x21.html

Poor old me is confused as ASUS and AMD say that there is only 4800+ which of course will do me but they (3btech) dont have one!

As ny_driver was saying, the 5000+ is not socket 939 it's AM2. As is shown here on AMD's product detail.

Also, as ny-driver was saying the cream of the crop 939 CPU's were the FX series and the Opterons. The Opterons are technically a server CPU, and even though most motherboard manufacturers don't officially support them, I have yet to see one not work in any 939 mobo.

NOTE: The best overclocking 939's I've seen, with a few slight exceptions, are the Opteron 170's with LCBQE stepping.

Hey guys I was just wondering what you think my rig is worth, I made a thread. For selling purposes, I'd swap in 6GB RAM and my 4870's.


----------



## ny_driver

Guess what I'm building?

I got my xfx HD4890 replaced and am trading it for this motherboard http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131363 and probably an 8850, just so I have a cpu in it until I can afford to get the one I want. I need to come up with some DDR3 soon though. I'll probably buy 4GB of something.

What do you guys think?

I will try to keep my 939 rig going though, just need a middle of the road pci-e card.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Guess what I'm building?

I got my xfx HD4890 replaced and am trading it for this motherboard http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131363 and probably an 8850, just so I have a cpu in it until I can afford to get the one I want. I need to come up with some DDR3 soon though. I'll probably buy 4GB of something.

What do you guys think?

I will try to keep my 939 rig going though, just need a middle of the road pci-e card.


 I've heard those are pretty decent boards. And in all honesty for your purposes (I'm assuming gaming mainly) an x3 720 would do you just fine. With my AM3 rig (x3 720 @ 3.6, RAM @ 1600 CAS 7, 2x 4870) I was seriously about 100 points shy of breakin the 20,000 mark in 3Dmark06.

That thing would plow through games, kind of like this i7, but the i7 can do it at stock speeds.









I'm thinkin of selling it though, gawd I'm so indecisive when it comes to selling my hardware.









Couple of things you should know: (1) Make sure the voltage on the RAM that you buy is low (1.65v or less) that's all it officially supports. (2) Memory testing on the AM3's is of paramount importance since you not only OC the memory itself, but you also OC the CPU-NB lane which is what connects the memory to the CPU. So it adds another variable to memory overclocking.

Prime 95 blend test is still the best to use I've found. Run it at least 16 hours.

PS: I just thought about the deal you're about to make, is that board new that you're getting? Because the XFX 4890's _still_ go for ~$200 new. And since the double lifetime warranty, their value doesn't diminish as much. 
Maybe if you're getting the board + a cpu then it would be worth it if it is used.


----------



## ny_driver

The card originally had a double lifetime warranty, but I am the 2nd owner and it's been registered by both of us now because I had to get it replaced. So the warranty is only good for me for life, and I'll have to return it for the buyer.

Might be able to unlock the phenom II x3 720 BE for only $90 at the egg. Good suggestion thank you. I can probably get 4Gb RAM and that cpu for ~$200. Not bad, but I better get to selling some stuff.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


The card originally had a double lifetime warranty, but I am the 2nd owner and it's been registered by both of us now because I had to get it replaced. So the warranty is only good for me for life, and I'll have to return it for the buyer.

Might be able to unlock the phenom II x3 720 BE for only $90 at the egg. Good suggestion thank you. I can probably get 4Gb RAM and that cpu for ~$200. Not bad, but I better get to selling some stuff.



You're welcome.









Are you going to be switching OS's? If you're sticking with XP I'd suggest just getting 2 GB of RAM, as it'll most likely be a lot cheaper. That and XP doesn't really need any more than that anyway. I doubt you'd even notice a difference from 2 to 4GB.

However, it's a common misconception that people have that XP can only run 4GB of total memory. When in actuality it can run quite a bit more than that --64 or 128 GB. However, your hardware has to support Data Execution Prevention (DEP). My x58 board does, I'm not sure if my AM3 board does or not. You might want to check in to that M4A79T to see if it does as well.

Now that I think about it.....Didn't the M4A79-T have issues?









Do a quick search on here, I could've swore that they had some sort of problem.


----------



## ny_driver

I've been on Windows7 Ultimate x64 for a month or so.

The board supports 16GB I have to get at least 4.

I'll look, thanks. EDIT: I couldn't find any problem stories about that board doing a quick search, so far.


----------



## SwishaMane

Well, this sucks guys...

New BIOS for DFI mobo came, mobo still bricked, loaded with newest revision, wont recognize any of my 3 dual core CPUs. Same diag. LED that signifies exact problem, wont recognize CPU... Continuouse restart, etc... No kepyboard / mouse recognize... etc

IDK, does this mobo need baked?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SwishaMane* 
Well, this sucks guys...

New BIOS for DFI mobo came, mobo still bricked, loaded with newest revision, wont recognize any of my 3 dual core CPUs. Same diag. LED that signifies exact problem, wont recognize CPU... Continuouse restart, etc... No kepyboard / mouse recognize... etc

IDK, does this mobo need baked?

Have you happened to have tried other parts? RAM, CPU (single core?), or PSU? I remember hearing that those DFI's were quite picky with what PSU they'll work with, and which ones they won't. Maybe that's the problem?


----------



## Blitz6804

And there was a special way to dump the CMOS involving using only one DIMM (I think in one orange slot) and fiddling with the jumpers. I can look through the thread later most likely.


----------



## theCanadian

Some pr0n for you guys.


----------



## SwishaMane

PSU worked fine at first, and Ive never heard of the CMOS dump using one dimm deal, enlighten me. I wouldnt even know how to search it.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*


PSU worked fine at first, and Ive never heard of the CMOS dump using one dimm deal, enlighten me. I wouldnt even know how to search it.


Try clearing your CMOS with just one stick of RAM in it. I believe Blitz was right, its an orange slot. I forget if its the first or last slot though. You could try both. Try to clear your CMOS that way, with only one stick installed in the orange slots (try both of them to be sure, but one at a time). That MIGHT just do the trick.

And the PSU thing, I do remember the DFI boards are VERY picky about the PSU they're on. I don't remember which PSU's were good on them though.


----------



## Blitz6804

I believe it is the further orange slot. Keep only one DIMM in that slot, removing all others. Then unplug it, shunt the CMOS clear, and remove the CMOS battery. Press the power button a few times to be sure the capacitors are empty. Wait five minutes. Then replace the battery and unshunt the CMOS clear. Re-plug and power up. (If it still does not work right, try the closer orange slot.) After it successfully boots Windows, you can shut down and install your other DIMMs.


----------



## ny_driver

The new system is finalized, I just haven't bought the motherboard yet. Here are links to what I bought so far......edit: I SOLD ENOUGH STUFF TO BUY THE BOARD.......WHOOOOHOOOOO!!!!!!!!

1055 Turbo(I had to because my cats name is Mr. Turbo, btw)- http://www.overclock.net/main-compon...unlocks-2.html

2 x 2GB OCZ DDR3 PC3 1600 cas7 Platinum EB- http://www.ocztechnology.com/product...eb_edition-eol

Check out my new sig rig to see the rest of the details.


----------



## Blitz6804

Nice buys ny_driver, I am so far having fun with my Thuban, all you need is to get your hands on that motherboard. I hear the Crosshair is a monster.

I am kinda curious why you are never on Steam anymore to chit-chat though.


----------



## ny_driver

Thanks.







I'm pretty psyched.

I've stopped in a couple times and no one was around. I've been busy not working. I'll be around.

How high did you get that chip up to so far?


----------



## Blitz6804

I am presently testing it in excess of 3.8 GHz. Two instances of Prime95x64 are making sure I am pushing it for all it is worth.


----------



## simfreak47

Hey guys! Long time no chat. Been busy with the car, a girl, work, and OT.

I'm thinking about getting another old school 939 rig, and getting rid of this POS laptop


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


I am presently testing it in excess of 3.8 GHz. Two instances of Prime95x64 are making sure I am pushing it for all it is worth.


You mean you are actually running 12 threads of prime.......2 on each core?


----------



## Blitz6804

Yep. That is the only way you can use all 4 GB of memory too. Two instances of Prime95.exe (must have in two different folders) each with six workers.


----------



## General_Chris

mines please can ya update mines







ty if you do







its stable 100%


----------



## ny_driver

You guys want to hear about the great deals I gave this weekend in order to round up enough money for my new rig?

I sold a guy 2 x HD4890/1GB....the xfx (fresh card from RMA), and a sapphire Vapor-X, for $250 shipped.

I sold 2 x 1GB Crucial DDR400 (fresh from RMA) for $50 shipped.

I sold 2 x 1GB Mushkin Redline xp4000 DDR500(fresh from RMA) for $65 shipped to Australia

Sometimes you just have to look at the big picture......plus what goes around comes around one way or another.

All in all I lost some money....I paid $155 and $165 for the cards..........lost 70-80 bucks there.

I got the 2 x 1GB crucial as a replacement for 2 x 512 that I paid $120 for.......lost 70-80 bucks there

But, I only paid 56 bucks plus ~$4 to ship them back, plus shipping to Australia.....might break even on them!


----------



## Blitz6804

General_Chris: I will update your prior entry sometime in the future.


----------



## SpykeZ

Well I just got my old 939 rebuilt and back in my lian li so as soon as I stop being lazy I can get windows 7 on it


----------



## N2Gaming

I doubt I'll be playing w/any of my 939 stuff until I get a house


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I doubt I'll be playing w/any of my 939 stuff until I get a house


You live with parents? Cause getting a house by yourself is way over rated...

wait...

NO ITS NOT! It's awesome, ha ha ha ha.

OT: 939 roxxorz! Since Im gonna have a 1200 watt, decent PSU on a 939, that, under load might need 500watt, should I get like a 600 watt TEC cooler for this bench? Ah, that would be crazy...


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*


You live with parents? ...


Actually no and I'm trying to buy for the first time.







I'm tired of renting and having to move because the owners decide to sell.







In any case I have all my toys all boxed up from my last move a little over a month ago. I just found my stash of RAM today...









Edit: I'm only missing the Crucial Ballistix DDR500 2x1GB but I know it's floating around here some where.


----------



## nategr8ns

Good for you N2. I feel that cars should always be bought outright if possible (like in Pio's case, he got a great car outright for an awesome price), but houses are a lot harder to afford at once







.
Good luck in your search, and eventually your move







. Have you found a place yet?


----------



## ny_driver

Well, I got tired of wondering "***?" when my computer crashes, so I ran prime blend last night @ 2.75 GHz(250x11) with DDR500 and let it go for 7 hours. 150 tests 0 errors/ 0 warnings. Max temps of 51/46c. A/C off, but it was a cool night.

Amazingly these OCZ Platinum rated @ DDR400 2.5-3-2-5-1T run @ DDR500 3-3-2-5-1T......I thought maybe the memory was too high, but apparently it must have been the CPU. Now that I have a 1055T in the mail I don't care so much about this Opty running 3GHz.

The system was crashing while I was testing the OC-ability of my new ASUS EAH4890, but it wasn't exactly crashing consistently so I was really scratching my head. It was crashing where GPU Tool said I was fine....now I can re-test the card today and hopefully get accurate results.

I think I'm going to sell off this CPU and motherboard cheap and keep a Neo2 Platinum as my 939 rig with my Single channel Opty 170, these OCZ sticks, and my AGP x1950pro 512mb.

If anyone is interested in the CPU(opty180) or motherboard(asus A8R32-MVP Deluxe) let me know.
http://forums.techpowerup.com/showthread.php?t=123709


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Have you found a place yet?


Actually yes I have and thank you for asking. Only problem is it's a short sale that's gonna require some patience and a little TLC once Chase gives us the ok. Chase still owns the house and we can't do any thing until they accept my offer which is a decent price for the house and condition.







It's only 6 years old and a 2 story w/room for expanding a game room under the existing roof.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Good for you N2


 Thank's


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Actually no and I'm trying to buy for the first time.







I'm tired of renting and having to move because the owners decide to sell.







In any case I have all my toys all boxed up from my last move a little over a month ago. I just found my stash of RAM today...









Edit: I'm only missing the Crucial Ballistix DDR500 2x1GB but I know it's floating around here some where.










I was just picking on ya... I rent too, but haven't had to move yet. Its looking like it myself, so we in same boat, kinda.


----------



## Blitz6804

I have good news to share with everyone:

As of yesterday, I officially have my Juris Doctor (J.D.) meaning that I am now qualified to sit for my bar exams.

Less than two months left...


----------



## nategr8ns

Crazy blitz!
Good luck!


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
I have good news to share with everyone:

As of yesterday, I officially have my Juris Doctor (J.D.) meaning that I am now qualified to sit for my bar exams.

Less than two months left...

Congratulations!


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


I have good news to share with everyone:

As of yesterday, I officially have my Juris Doctor (J.D.) meaning that I am now qualified to sit for my bar exams.

Less than two months left...


+1 congrats! 
Wishing you the best.

N2, I think you'll find owning really is better than renting and what you pay each month is close to being the same. Of course if you don't pay each month you'll get the boot and that's anywhere BUT at least you'll know why and that it's coming if you get behind on payments!

BTW, isn't there still help/incentives for first time buyers?

Oh yeah, I'll be getting back into the 939 game soon. Also just bought a pair of Abit NF7 MB's and looking to do some benching soon with these systems. Maybe I'll set some new records or something - Maybe.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
I have good news to share with everyone:

As of yesterday, I officially have my Juris Doctor (J.D.) meaning that I am now qualified to sit for my bar exams.

Less than two months left...









Congrats man!









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
+1 congrats!
Wishing you the best.

N2, I think you'll find owning really is better than renting and what you pay each month is close to being the same. Of course if you don't pay each month you'll get the boot and that's anywhere BUT at least you'll know why and that it's coming if you get behind on payments!

BTW, isn't there still help/incentives for first time buyers?

Oh yeah, I'll be getting back into the 939 game soon. Also just bought a pair of Abit NF7 MB's and looking to do some benching soon with these systems. Maybe I'll set some new records or something - Maybe.

I only wish that I could qualify to purchase a home. As much as I pay per month I could easily be paying a mortgage payment.


----------



## PROBN4LYFE

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 







Congrats man!









I only wish that I could qualify to purchase a home. As much as I pay per month I could easily be paying a mortgage payment.









Keep your faith







!!!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PROBN4LYFE* 
Keep your faith







!!!

Workin on it. Going to school, hopefully when I'm done I'll be able to afford a nice big place. I'm gonna need it with 3 kids.


----------



## Blitz6804

Where I live, rent is $1200 a month. If I had the $30,000 down payment, a mortgage would be but $600 a month. Oh, how I wish I had the down payment...


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks for the nice words of encouragement guys.








Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Where I live, rent is $1200 a month. If I had the $30,000 down payment, a mortgage would be but $600 a month. Oh, how I wish I had the down payment...


all you need is 3.5% down providing you have a good credit score of 620 and ^ along with closing cost's and you can own a nice house blitz.

Congrats on your J.D.


----------



## Blitz6804

And a job, I need one of those too. My credit score (fortunately) is well past 620, but see the former clause.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


And a job, I need one of those too. My credit score (fortunately) is well past 620, but see the former clause.


 Yeah but when you get a job "not if but when" I'm pretty sure you'll be set and won't have any issues buying.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well guys, after an accidental buy, I have a DFI LanParty Ultra-D on its way to me now.

And I figured I'd let you guys know about my letter to Antec.

Now if only Gigabyte would get with the program and send me a FUNCTIONING motherboard back (having to RMA my AM2+ board, since it came back from RMA DOA)....I'd have a functioning quad rig, lol.

But in the meantime, since I accidentally bought that DFI board, I guess I'll go for 3.2GHz stable with my Opty







.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Well guys, after an accidental buy, I have a DFI LanParty Ultra-D on its way to me now.

And I figured I'd let you guys know about my letter to Antec.

Now if only Gigabyte would get with the program and send me a FUNCTIONING motherboard back (having to RMA my AM2+ board, since it came back from RMA DOA)....I'd have a functioning quad rig, lol.

But in the meantime, since I accidentally bought that DFI board, I guess I'll go for 3.2GHz stable with my Opty







.


Sh**, you can have mine for spare parts, that expensive a** POS...

Got all my parts, and am currently in middle of building NEW new 939 setup.

Also, my H50 Intel to 939 bracket mod was successful. I just need a couple small washers to finish it off, but it will work in current state. I'll get pics once this is up and running...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Guys, I could REALLY use some real time assistance with my new board (DFI LP Ultra D SLI). I've already almost accidentallied my processor once. And for some odd reason, I CANNOT get stable at 3.0GHz unless I use insane vcore (1.52v)







.

What am I doing wrong here? And also, it WILL NOT boot into Windows any higher than 333 x 9 with a 3x HT Link. But I can POST and run the onboard memtest all the way up to 450MHz HTT (using 6x multi, and 2x HT Link). Verified this using the onboard memtest....it showed my RAM as DDR450 using the DDR200 divider.

Anyway...any assistance would be great. This board is 100% foreign to me...coming from an A8N32-SLI Deluxe.

Steam, Xfire, AIM, YIM, or MSN would be preferred (same SN everywhere). I would prefer it to be real time assistance if possible...tis faster that way







.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Guys, I could REALLY use some real time assistance with my new board (DFI LP Ultra D SLI). I've already almost accidentallied my processor once. And for some odd reason, I CANNOT get stable at 3.0GHz unless I use insane vcore (1.52v)







.

What am I doing wrong here? And also, it WILL NOT boot into Windows any higher than 333 x 9 with a 3x HT Link. But I can POST and run the onboard memtest all the way up to 450MHz HTT (using 6x multi, and 2x HT Link). Verified this using the onboard memtest....it showed my RAM as DDR450 using the DDR200 divider.

Anyway...any assistance would be great. This board is 100% foreign to me...coming from an A8N32-SLI Deluxe.

Steam, Xfire, AIM, YIM, or MSN would be preferred (same SN everywhere). I would prefer it to be real time assistance if possible...tis faster that way







.


What are your NB temps/volts?

And is it possible that it smoking on your Asus with the crazy fluctuating vcore caused damage to ye ol' opty?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
What are your NB temps/volts?

And is it possible that it smoking on your Asus with the crazy fluctuating vcore caused damage to ye ol' opty?

I don't really think it damaged the Opty. When I pulled it all apart, I was rock solid at 3.0GHz (334 x 9) at 1.36v. 4x HT Link, and DDR266 divider with tightish timings (2.5-3-3-6-2T....DDR430).

Now, I'm STRUGGLING to get the same clocks, but with MUCH higher voltage







. And all I did was change the board...to one that's SUPPOSEDLY much better.

I seriously think this is an issue of PEBKAC. Last time I tried a DFI board (was an NF3 939 board), I rage quit the thing because of the vast BIOS options. This one is starting to look the same way.


----------



## BlackOmega

That might just be the limit of the board.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
That might just be the limit of the board.









I doubt it.

I remember hearing about these DFI boards. How picky they can be about certain RAM timings, certain RAM not being usable in them, certain PSU's not working right with them.

Since I can POST and boot memtest at 450HTT, I just KNOW this board can go higher than 333. It has to be a setting that I'm not setting right.

For reference:
My Asus will POST up to 355, is stable up to 334.
My Jetway will POST up to 330, is stable up to 311.

Since this DFI will POST up to 450, it HAS GOT to be stable higher than 333.


----------



## N2Gaming

How low have you ran your ram? ie 177,166,155 etc etc. I don't recall off the top of my head what the ram options are for ram speeds but there should be several more than what you have on the ASUS mobo.

Also your VRM's may get a little hot w/a duel core. Cool them suckers down.

Are you bench testing it out of the case or is it in a well ventilated case? NB chipset could be getting hot. How is the fan on the NB?

Aditionally your ram may be the week link. Have you tried to use different bios's on the mobo to see if you achieve different results.

It may be possible to gain more HTT w/a earlier bios or later bios. It's always worth a shot if your confident in your ability of flashing the bios.

You have a new power supply now as well. I'm wondering if the new PSU is fluctuating more than the one you were using in the system before.

There is a voltage options for the NB chipset but I never used it. I have never really wanted to kill my little DFI's.


----------



## redhat_ownage

update the bios
that always fixes oc issues with dfi's
great deal on the board
i was going to pick it up for myself but i seen you had posted and i know you would have needed it more


----------



## pioneerisloud

Alright guys, well how can I figure out which board EXACTLY I have?

It says NF4 SLI in POST. But the guy told me that this was an Ultra D (non-SLI).

So I'm confused here







. I have no clue what board this ACTUALLY is.

And also, there is NO WAY to update the BIOS







. Socket 939 doesn't exist on DFI's website.


----------



## theCanadian

Look on the board. It should have a model number written on it near the RAM area or above the PCIe slot.

And here is a way to view their old 939 platform products: http://www.dfi.com.tw/portal/CM/cmsu...P5XyrQ**.node2

Just pick socket 939 in the middle of the page and then pick any chip. Click go and it should pull everything right up. Note that their are two pages and the Ultra D is on the second page.

here's a direct link to it too. http://www.dfi.com.tw/portal/CM/cmpr...rmal&mode=view might not work though, you know... cookies and all.


----------



## pioneerisloud

All I can really see on it is "NF4 LanParty".


----------



## redhat_ownage

its an ultra d
the sli-d/dr has an sli sticker over the nf4

latest official
http://img.lanparty.tw/Upload/BIOS/CM/NF4LD329.ZIP

latest beta
http://img.lanparty.tw/Upload/BIOS/CM/NF4LDB02.ZIP


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage*


its an ultra d
the sli-d/dr has an sli sticker over the nf4

latest official
http://img.lanparty.tw/Upload/BIOS/CM/NF4LD329.ZIP

latest beta
http://img.lanparty.tw/Upload/BIOS/CM/NF4LDB02.ZIP


Which one is recommended?

And is there a way to flash it within Windows like my Asus could do? I HATE doing DOS flashes.


----------



## Blitz6804

My DFI used to work with WinFlash; I would double check with someone else because that might have been something they added with AM2+ though.


----------



## redhat_ownage

winflash is what i always used on my nf3/4's
i dont think the beta adds anything useful


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage* 
winflash is what i always used on my nf3/4's
i dont think the beta adds anything useful

Alrighty, well I'm still confused by what my board is.

According to POST it has nforce4 - SLI

According to BIOS I have "dual Nvidia cards....enable or disable".

According to the sticker that's on the board, its only an Ultra D though (since it has NF4-Lanparty on the top of the board).

So I don't have any clue what I should flash the BIOS to







.


----------



## Blitz6804

Remove the NB heatsink and take a look? Remember to have non-conductive TIM around if you do that though.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Remove the NB heatsink and take a look? Remember to have non-conductive TIM around if you do that though.


Cannot do that. I am 100% out of TIM. Which really sucks...because this means when my Gigabyte board FINALLY comes back, I won't be able to use.


----------



## N2Gaming

If the mobo has a sticker saying it's an ultra D then that's what you have. I wonder if a previous owner did the sli mod and flashed the bios w/a sli-d bios. That may effect your ability to get stable. IDK for fact but it would make sense to me. You should have a date on your flash screen if you hit pause during POST right after your GPU bios screen goes away. The date will tell you what bios you have and there is another way to determine what bios has been flashed on it but I'm drawing a blank atm.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


If the mobo has a sticker saying it's an ultra D then that's what you have. I wonder if a previous owner did the sli mod and flashed the bios w/a sli-d bios. That may effect your ability to get stable. IDK for fact but it would make sense to me. You should have a date on your flash screen if you hit pause during POST right after your GPU bios screen goes away. The date will tell you what bios you have and there is another way to determine what bios has been flashed on it but I'm drawing a blank atm.


It has no stickers on it what-so-ever. It says at the very top, NF4 Lanparty. Other than that, it shows nothing.

And I am in fact missing one row of SATA controllers. The traces are there, but there's no ports.

So that leads me to assume its an Ultra D.

However on POST it says nforce4 SLI. And I have SLI options in BIOS :/.

I don't know. I'll just mess with it the way it is. I'm borderline stable right now at 3.0GHz again, DDR430 (with Crucial ValueRAM) @ 2.5-3-3-6-2T.

So we'll see.

At least this board doesn't randomly catch fire







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


At least this board doesn't randomly catch fire







.


Most DFI's won't...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

pio, how about a picture of your board?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


pio, how about a picture of your board?


Alright, but excuse the mess....I am in the garage







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Alright, but excuse the mess....I am in the garage







.


Haha, no problem (and no judgment) from me, buddy.









I'm inclined to go along with N2G's call, though: That the previous owner might have done the SLI mod, then flashed to a SLI-D/SLI-DR BIOS on what used to be an Ultra-D.

Of course, the one truism with S939-era DFIs is to get the most out of them, you NEED to tune the RAM. DFIs from that era are notoriously intolerant of RAM that isn't tuned properly. A8N32-SLI Deluxe-style "Auto" settings don't work with most LANParty boards, unfortunately.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Haha, no problem (and no judgment) from me, buddy.









I'm inclined to go along with N2G's call, though: That the previous owner might have done the SLI mod, then flashed to a SLI-D/SLI-DR BIOS on what used to be an Ultra-D.

Of course, the one truism with S939-era DFIs is to get the most out of them, you NEED to tune the RAM. DFIs from that era are notoriously intolerant of RAM that isn't tuned properly. A8N32-SLI Deluxe-style "Auto" settings don't work with most LANParty boards, unfortunately.










Well I'm currently testing 133 divider (DDR430) @ 2.5-3-3-6-2T (TRC=21/TRFC=24, everything else = auto). Those are the only options I know about unfortunately.

Passed 1 hour in LinX.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Well I'm currently testing 133 divider (DDR430) @ 2.5-3-3-6-2T (TRC=21/TRFC=24, everything else = auto). Those are the only options I know about unfortunately.

Passed 1 hour in LinX.

You happen to know what ICs you've got in your RAM?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
You happen to know what ICs you've got in your RAM?

I do not. All I know is they are 1GB per stick, Crucial Value RAM. 3-3-3-8-2T @ 2.5v for DDR400. That is all I know about them.

And I know my good old Corsair XMS sticks that were AMAZING on my Asus board....don't work at all on this board.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I do not. All I know is they are 1GB per stick, Crucial Value RAM. 3-3-3-8-2T @ 2.5v for DDR400. That is all I know about them.

And I know my good old Corsair XMS sticks that were AMAZING on my Asus board....don't work at all on this board.

The Crucials are Microns. Don't know (yet) what specific type of Micron IC, but definitely Micron.









That's odd that the Corsairs wouldn't work. Did you test them at stock speeds and timings first?

(If I have time tomorrow, I'll revisit the thread. If not, sometime during the weekend. Time for ol' Joe to hit the hay and get ready for work in the AM.)

Missed everybody here, yo!

BTW, a favor to all (and a request for patience with me): Any roster updates that need to be done, can you PM me what you've got? If you've already PMed me from before tonight regarding a roster update, then there's no need to do so (unless you've got another entry update you'd like me to make). I've been away so long there have been a gazillion posts since the last time I've checked in earnest.









You fellas really keep this Club going! Amazing ain't the word for it!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
The Crucials are Microns. Don't know (yet) what specific type of Micron IC, but definitely Micron.









That's odd that the Corsairs wouldn't work. Did you test them at stock speeds and timings first?

(If I have time tomorrow, I'll revisit the thread. If not, sometime during the weekend. Time for ol' Joe to hit the hay and get ready for work in the AM.)

Missed everybody here, yo!

BTW, a favor to all (and a request for patience with me): Any roster updates that need to be done, can you PM me what you've got? If you've already PMed me from before tonight regarding a roster update, then there's no need to do so (unless you've got another entry update you'd like me to make). I've been away so long there have been a gazillion posts since the last time I've checked in earnest.









You fellas really keep this Club going! Amazing ain't the word for it!









Yes I tried the Corsairs at stock, and below stock speeds and timings. I could NOT get them to work no matter what I tried. With these Crucial Value sticks, at least they're working....at the same speeds and timings I had the Corsairs at with my Asus. So at least I didn't LOSE any performance







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Good to hear from you txt'r


----------



## Blitz6804

I just private messaged you all changes pending since the last time I messaged you. I am such a bad keeper of the offsite, I have a pile of links to update yet, not to mention I never finished with the revamp: I died out somewhere between E and F. (-_-)


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I do not. All I know is they are 1GB per stick, Crucial Value RAM. 3-3-3-8-2T @ 2.5v for DDR400. That is all I know about them.

And I know my good old Corsair XMS sticks that were AMAZING on my Asus board....don't work at all on this board.


 The Corsair XMS's should be Infineon BH-5 IC's. Which are almost the best IC's made for DDR, IIRC. 
My XMS's seem to work just fine on my Ultra-D's.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


The Crucials are Microns. Don't know (yet) what specific type of Micron IC, but definitely Micron.










That's odd that the Corsairs wouldn't work. Did you test them at stock speeds and timings first?

(If I have time tomorrow, I'll revisit the thread. If not, sometime during the weekend. Time for ol' Joe to hit the hay and get ready for work in the AM.)

Missed everybody here, yo!

BTW, a favor to all (and a request for patience with me): Any roster updates that need to be done, can you PM me what you've got? If you've already PMed me from before tonight regarding a roster update, then there's no need to do so (unless you've got another entry update you'd like me to make). I've been away so long there have been a gazillion posts since the last time I've checked in earnest.









You fellas really keep this Club going! Amazing ain't the word for it!










 Hey Joe







. Good to hear from you.







I hope all is well with you.

Pio, your board is a regular Ultra-D that someone has enabled the SLI portion of the NB. And there is no "special" BIOS for the SLI-D. The Ultra-D also has the option to enable "SLI broadcast aperture" in the BIOS. 
When the Ultra-D first came out, they came with a non-flexible SLI bridge and you were, in fact, able to run SLI on an Ultra-D without having to mod it. Nvidia became wise to this and disabled the ability of the NF4 Ultra chipset to run SLI natively via drivers. Step in SLI mod. By simply connecting the two "pins" on the Ultra chipset, effectively changed it to an NF4-SLI chipset. (That's why your board reads it as such).

On the "regular" NF4 chipset (not ultra or SLI), SATA II was also disabled. And in similar fashion to enabling SLI on it, you could use a circuit pen or solder the 2 contacts and enable that as well. 
(See pic below).










Nvidia eventually became wise to people enabling SATA II and SLI with the circuit pen/soldering as well, and made DFI put drops of epoxy over the contacts. However, those were easily removed as well. Some people say to use an exacto-knife, I simply melted it with my soldering iron.


----------



## AMOCO

Hey guy's,It's been great,But you can remove me from the list,I Officially do not own any more 939 socket CPU's or Motherboards.


----------



## pioneerisloud

That DFI board is way to finicky. I'm back to the Asus for now, even though it randomly catches fire (hasn't done so LATELY I might add, might have been the PSU).

I just cannot handle the downtime that DFI was making me have. I could NOT get it stable at 334x9 no matter what! And what's even worse...it passed 3 hours of LinX last night. And then out of NOWHERE, while just web-browsing...it crashed







.

I think I was WAAAAY too close to the limitations of the board. I got a "dud" so to speak (it overclocks, just not super high).

So...back to Burny v1.1 for now (editing sig rig now).


----------



## pioneerisloud

Sorry for double post here....

But it appears that when I first installed the DFI board, I killed my Opteron. It is no longer stable at stock speeds and voltages







. This is on the Asus (known stable at 3.0GHz, 1.36v). With the Corsair RAM, that I KNOW is good (never over-volted or went out of known stable speeds).

So yeah....Woohoo! I don't have a rig that functions properly....AGAIN!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


That DFI board is way to finicky. I'm back to the Asus for now, even though it randomly catches fire (hasn't done so LATELY I might add, might have been the PSU).

I just cannot handle the downtime that DFI was making me have. I could NOT get it stable at 334x9 no matter what! And what's even worse...it passed 3 hours of LinX last night. And then out of NOWHERE, while just web-browsing...it crashed







.

I think I was WAAAAY too close to the limitations of the board. I got a "dud" so to speak (it overclocks, just not super high).

So...back to Burny v1.1 for now (editing sig rig now).


 I've heard LinX is a good test, however, I have read multiple posts, both AMD and Intel, that after passing 20 some odd tests, it'll just randomly crash and is unstable. I still stick by my tried and true methods. For initial CPU testing, S&M works well to let me know how the actual overclock is doing. Then once I get to memory/timings and overall stability, P95 Blend.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Sorry for double post here....

*But it appears that when I first installed the DFI board, I killed my Opteron. It is no longer stable at stock speeds and voltages *







. This is on the Asus (known stable at 3.0GHz, 1.36v). With the Corsair RAM, that I KNOW is good (never over-volted or went out of known stable speeds).

So yeah....Woohoo! I don't have a rig that functions properly....AGAIN!


 That sucks that your Opty got hurt.









But wow, not even at stock speed/voltage is it stable....









Was your opty stable at stock speed/voltage on the DFI?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I've heard LinX is a good test, however, I have read multiple posts, both AMD and Intel, that after passing 20 some odd tests, it'll just randomly crash and is unstable. I still stick by my tried and true methods. For initial CPU testing, S&M works well to let me know how the actual overclock is doing. Then once I get to memory/timings and overall stability, P95 Blend.

That sucks that your Opty got hurt.









But wow, not even at stock speed/voltage is it stable....









* Was your opty stable at stock speed/voltage on the DFI?*


No it wasn't. I couldn't get it stable no matter WHAT I did. Never tried stock. Not going to try either. Not worth it if the Asus can't do it. I passed 3-4 hours just a few nights ago with LinX @ 3.0GHz, 1.36v on the Asus, before I switched over to the DFI.


----------



## BlackOmega

Aww man I knew that surge of voltage screwed it.







That sucks.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Aww man I knew that surge of voltage screwed it.







That sucks.


Oh well







. As soon as I figure out a way to hook up my 1TB drive to it, I have a backup Socket A rig sitting here that I bought for the off chance my board completely lit up (the Asus). So as soon as I figure something out to get that hooked up, I'll have a good old reliable Socket A I guess.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Oh well







. As soon as I figure out a way to hook up my 1TB drive to it, I have a backup Socket A rig sitting here that I bought for the off chance my board completely lit up (the Asus). So as soon as I figure something out to get that hooked up, I'll have a good old reliable Socket A I guess.


 I'd say keep trying on the DFI. Since the Asus VRM's are _known_ to be bad, the DFI's most likely aren't.

When I get back in a little bit, I'll hop on to my folding rig which has an Ultra-d and refresh myself with its BIOS. Then maybe we can get your 939 running stable at the very least.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I'd say keep trying on the DFI. Since the Asus VRM's are _known_ to be bad, the DFI's most likely aren't.

When I get back in a little bit, I'll hop on to my folding rig which has an Ultra-d and refresh myself with its BIOS. Then maybe we can get your 939 running stable at the very least.


Well considering I passed 3-4 hours of LinX just a few nights ago on the Asus with 3.0GHz, 1.36v...and now I'm not stable at even stock speeds and voltages....I'm 99% sure I killed the chip.

Its not worth the hassle to try to install the DFI again. Not with a dead chip.

Also, the Asus has actually been acting surprisingly well lately. Ever since I got my new PSU in, it's been working just fine. Go figure







.

EDIT:
I've also noticed that my "Core 2" temperature is REALLY REALLY messed up now. Sub ambient at idle, and SUPER high at load (83+*C). Yes, I have reseated 3 times now. It is NOT the application of TIM.

I think that surge of voltage killed Core 2 on my chip.


----------



## redhat_ownage

the ultra-d and sli-d use the same bios, they will only show the sli option in the bios when the sli mod on the chipset has been done.
your board is most definitely an ultra-d
80% of sli-d were made in china the ultra-d was made in taiwan


----------



## N2Gaming

PIO I hate to sound like jerk her but perhaps you were trying to run before you knew how to walk on the DFI...









You mentioned some insane votages to the chip that you acidentally noticed some how but I can't recall how you mentioned it to me atm.

In any case it's a shame if so & that you think you hurt your golden Opty 165...

Can we get a group hug for PIO?









Now all we need to do is hear from Thlnk3r and Hueristic and in no patictular order.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Well considering I passed 3-4 hours of LinX just a few nights ago on the Asus with 3.0GHz, 1.36v...and now I'm not stable at even stock speeds and voltages....I'm 99% sure I killed the chip.

Its not worth the hassle to try to install the DFI again. Not with a dead chip.

Also, the Asus has actually been acting surprisingly well lately. Ever since I got my new PSU in, it's been working just fine. Go figure







.

EDIT:
I've also noticed that my "Core 2" temperature is REALLY REALLY messed up now. Sub ambient at idle, and SUPER high at load (83+*C). Yes, I have reseated 3 times now. It is NOT the application of TIM.

I think that surge of voltage killed Core 2 on my chip.

... Try delidding. If you haven't.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


... Try delidding. If you haven't.


Can't delid it. I have no way to cool it if I delid it. All my coolers are clip ons.


----------



## Blitz6804

Well there's your problem... </ADAM_SAVAGE>


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Well there's your problem... </ADAM_SAVAGE>


Yeah okay....its all my fault. I get it. I asked for help, didn't get any....and so I screwed it up. I know, its my fault. You don't have to rub it in.


----------



## Blitz6804

I meant in that you have clip-on coolers only. I've been telling you for years to switch to bolt down / through.


----------



## N2Gaming

Here's a chill pill guys.







I demanz ya'll take it immediately.







I have my Silver Bullets to keep my chilly "thank god" .

Check out what I got goning on over HERE...


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I've heard LinX is a good test, however, I have read multiple posts, both AMD and Intel, that after passing 20 some odd tests, it'll just randomly crash and is unstable.


Pio got me curious about this very phenomenon... I decided to try it.

I am currently up to run 23, and I will get back to you guys if it can finish all fifty I told it to run. (This rig is double-prime stable, so if 24 hours of 12 Prime95x64 workers could not kill it, LinX should not.)


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Pio got me curious about this very phenomenon... I decided to try it.

I am currently up to run 23, and I will get back to you guys if it can finish all fifty I told it to run. (This rig is double-prime stable, so if 24 hours of 12 Prime95x64 workers could not kill it, LinX should not.)


I'm going to guess that you'll pass with flying colors. I haven't tried LinX yet (no need to at the moment), but I'll give it a go when I decide to get a hexacore for for my 790FX-GD70.


----------



## Blitz6804

I am then going to compare results with Double-Prime. LinX has taken my temps up to 55Âº C max. Last time I ran Double-Prime, my ambient was 6Âº C warmer than it is now, so the two would not be comparable.

I can tell you that LinX stresses the memory less, I am showing only 95-96% usage instead of 97-98% with double. For fun once I tried triple Prime, that got me to 100%.

Also annoying is that every time a run passes, CPU load drops down to 5-10% for almost a minute, then it loads back up for 35 seconds, then drops back down et cetera. I am showing a shade over 74 GFLOPS peak (about 85 seconds a pass), no clue if that is good or not.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Well there's your problem... </ADAM_SAVAGE>

Lol, I just read that in his voice







.


----------



## Blitz6804

For those curious, my rig passed 50 runs of LinX 0.6.1. I then discovered there is a new version, so I downloaded and ran that. 50 runs of LinX 0.6.4. My maximum temperature is 56Âº C, which is 3Âº C warmer than dual instances of Prime95, and the same temperature as the SnM FPU test. All in all, not a bad stability tester, but I do not know how long I need to run it to make it more than just a rubber stamp.


----------



## N2Gaming

cool good to h3ar Blitz

I got grid working on xp x64.

turnes out theres a switch needed at the end of the short cut to the exe

Quote:



ii) The game does not launch 
If you find that the game fails to start and does not display the GRID logo, we recommend altering the properties of the GRID application shortcut and adding the argument -novirtual to the end of the "Target:" box. For example:

"C:\\Program Files\\Codemasters\\GRID\\GRID.exe" -novirtual

This fixes an issue with certain Antivirus software and users running on XP64.


 Just in case any one ever wants to run it in xp x64


----------



## ny_driver

Well boys, I have sold my primary 939 motherboard. Gotta ship it tomorrow







Now all I have left is the Tyan Tomcat S2865 and Neo2Platinum....







I do still have 2 x Opty180 CCBBE 0615EPMW for sale. PM please if interested.

I decided to build something newer. I've been selling my stuff and buying parts for the past few weeks. Motherboard, HD, and full cover blocks for my graphics cards will be here by the time I get home this weekend and I have everything else(edit: hoping ASUS 4890 will be here from RMA). See sig rig for details.









I'll probably build the Neo2 with a 3500+ or single channel Opty170 and the x850pro for a backup, EDIT: and to remain an active member..


----------



## Havokr505

can you add me to the list? im a bit late xD

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1240585


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


For those curious, my rig passed 50 runs of LinX 0.6.1. I then discovered there is a new version, so I downloaded and ran that. 50 runs of LinX 0.6.4. My maximum temperature is 56Âº C, which is 3Âº C warmer than dual instances of Prime95, and the same temperature as the SnM FPU test. All in all, not a bad stability tester, but I do not know how long I need to run it to make it more than just a rubber stamp.


LinX/IBT is a different form of testing.

In the past, OCCT, Prime, ect all used a "Medium strength over a long period" method to introduce work onto the CPU for stability testing.

In contrast, LinX/IBT uses a new method of "cram as much data down the pipes as possible" which is why you get higher temps.

Normally, you'll want to do 100 passes for an official; "It's stable."

Normally for your "intermediate" testing; you'll do 20 passes. Just to assure it's ready for a higher level.


----------



## theCanadian

With all the 939 trouble lately, I'm loath to push my OC.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Well boys, I have sold my primary 939 motherboard. Gotta ship it tomorrow







Now all I have left is the Tyan Tomcat S2865 and Neo2Platinum....







I do still have 2 x Opty180 CCBBE 0615EPMW for sale. PM please if interested.

I decided to build something newer. I've been selling my stuff and buying parts for the past few weeks. Motherboard, HD, and full cover blocks for my graphics cards will be here by the time I get home this weekend and I have everything else(edit: hoping ASUS 4890 will be here from RMA). See sig rig for details.









I'll probably build the Neo2 with a 3500+ or single channel Opty170 and the x850pro for a backup, EDIT: and to remain an active member..










 You'll definitely like the added performance of the AM3, I guarantee it.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


LinX/IBT is a different form of testing.

In the past, OCCT, Prime, ect all used a "Medium strength over a long period" method to introduce work onto the CPU for stability testing.

In contrast, LinX/IBT uses a new method of "cram as much data down the pipes as possible" which is why you get higher temps.

Normally, you'll want to do 100 passes for an official; "It's stable."

Normally for your "intermediate" testing; you'll do 20 passes. Just to assure it's ready for a higher level.


 HHHHEEEEYYYYY!!!!!! When'd you become an editor? At any rate, congrats









Does LinX also test the memory controller? And if so, to what extent?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


HHHHEEEEYYYYY!!!!!! When'd you become an editor? At any rate, congrats









Does LinX also test the memory controller? And if so, to what extent?


I became an Editor around a week ago or so







& Thank you









LinX will test the memory controller with high data packets, and thus pretty well. Though, for best testing I still suggest 100% using Memtest, which does RAM & Memory controller.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
I became an Editor around a week ago or so







& Thank you









LinX will test the memory controller with high data packets, and thus pretty well. Though, for best testing I still suggest 100% using Memtest, *which does RAM & Memory controller*.

See I've always been under the impression that it does _not_ test the controller. I mean, on my AM3, I had some pretty damn high overclocks (1760MHz IIRC) that were 100% memtest stable for 24hours. Yet prime would crash almost instantly. After getting the memory a bit more stable (1600MHz), it would still eventually fail P95 after various hour intervals. That's when I had to really start messing around with the timings, voltage and IMC voltage (not CPU-NB), before it got 100% stable.
That's what made me conclude that memtest did not seem to test the controller.


----------



## Tator Tot

It tests the controller, but it does not test the hyper-transport links. Which can fail as well.


----------



## nategr8ns

Congrats Tator







.

Also, I don't see how Memtest could _not_ test the memory controller, seeing as how its controller the memory, which memtest is testing.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


It tests the controller, but it does not test the hyper-transport links. Which can fail as well.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Congrats Tator







.

Also, I don't see how Memtest could _not_ test the memory controller, seeing as how its controller the memory, which memtest is testing.


 Well what I mean is it doesn't test the controller in conjunction to everything else such as the CPU-NB. As in it _only_ tests the memory as controlled my the controller and doesn't test any of the buses that are associated with it.


----------



## Blitz6804

Which is why I use two instances of Prime95 blend... most stressful memory controller test I have found. (Dual Prime95 large-FFT or SnM stress the CPU harder, but I have had SnM pass and it fail a dual Prime95 blend.*)

*And vice versa. Be sure to vary your testing before calling something rock sold stable, and be sure to shut the PC off first, because that is the only way it is guaranteed not to crash; when it is off. </JOE>


----------



## theCanadian

GRID anyone?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


GRID anyone?


I'll play


----------



## BlackOmega

I'd be down but I'm at the hospital at the moment. My wife's water broke a couple days early. So we are proud new parents [for the 3rd time] of a little baby girl.









Little Maya was born @ 4:05 AM EST. She is 19" long, and as far as I can tell, she has blond hair and blue eyes.


----------



## N2Gaming

Congrats...


----------



## GuardianOdin

I leave for a while and people are having babies!. Gratz BlackOmega!!!


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


I leave for a while and people are having babies!. Gratz BlackOmega!!!


Hah, I know. What is this?

Congratulations







.


----------



## ny_driver

Congrats B.O.!

I can't play anything because my new motherboard won't be here until Monday. I am 1GHz laptop bound until next weekend when I get home from work. I might order HD #2 in the meantime. I should anyways.

I plan to short stroke two 1TB SATA 3 HDs to ~25-30%. I think I'll just go RAID 1though......safer that way. RAID 0 won't gain me nearly as much speed as short stroking will.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
Congrats B.O.!

I can't play anything because my new motherboard won't be here until Monday. I am 1GHz laptop bound until next weekend when I get home from work. I might order HD #2 in the meantime. I should anyways.

I plan to short stroke two 1TB SATA 3 HDs to ~25-30%. I think I'll just go RAID 1though......safer that way. *RAID 0 won't gain me nearly as much speed as short stroking will.*











Strongly Agree Agree Neutral Disagree Strongly Disagree
..........1...............2 ........3 ...........4.................. _*5

*_Do explain.


----------



## ny_driver

Well, short stroking only uses the first 25%(or whatever you use) of the HD so less mechanical movement which gains a great deal in access time. I could go RAID 0 and short stroke which would gain me a little more.

However if 1 of your drives dies you lose all of your files because half of them are on the dead drive. RAID 1 just backs up all my files so write time is a little higher, but not bad.

Probably not the best explanation, and I'm only pretty sure I'm right. So correct me if I am wrong.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Well, short stroking only uses the first 25%(or whatever you use) of the HD so less mechanical movement which* gains a great deal in access time*. I could go RAID 0 and short stroke which would gain me a little more.

However if 1 of your drives dies you lose all of your files because half of them are on the dead drive. RAID 1 just backs up all my files so write time is a little higher, but not bad.

Probably not the best explanation, and I'm only pretty sure I'm right. So correct me if I am wrong.


I disagree, I think I've already had this conversation with you.


----------



## Blitz6804

I am in agreement with theCanadian here: you will get FAR more speed with RAID 0 than you will with shortstroking.

That said, if you just have two drives, I likely would do RAID 1 as you suggest from a failure's standpoint. Two drives in RAID 0 are twice as likely to experience failure as a single drive whereas two drives in RAID 1 are half as likely to experience failure. If you do not have any important data, go with the RAID 0 for the speed. If you have stuff you cannot lose, consider doubling down and go RAID 10 like I did.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


I disagree, I think I've already had this conversation with you.


No we haven't had this conversation, but please back up your belief that I am wrong?

Hmmm.......apparently my reading comprehension is going then, too.

EDIT: I could do RAID 0 with the 2 x 1TB and keep my 250GB in there to store important files on.


----------



## Blitz6804

You had a similar one with me theCanadian.

ny_driver: In the long run, short-stroked drives have a faster _average_ read speed and shorter _average_ latency. The reason for this is that the slower, further-out sections are not used, meaning that the faster ones closer in skew the average. I opted to short partition (not short stroke) my drives simply to save on time for defragmenting, partitioning, et cetera. If ever I run out of space, I can just increase the partition some.

Short stroking, on the other hand, the RAID appears in the OS as only a 700 GB drive, rather than as a 700 GB formatted partition and a 1300 GB unformatted partition.


----------



## ny_driver

So it sounds like you'd get the same performance only one way you can increase the partition size. Or is short stroking actually faster than a partitioned short stroke?








I missed this part when I was reading up on SS last week.

What is the difference in how you set it up?


----------



## Blitz6804

If you use the motherboard to short stroke, the operating system will only see your RAID array as 700 GB. I first tried this configuration on my computer. Then I destroyed the array, and remade it using the whole 2000 GB. However, I told Windows to only make the first 700 GB as NTFS, leave the other 1300 GB alone. I installed Windows on that. From the keyboard level, there is no difference in speed between the two of them. Comparing graphs from HDTune and HDTach shows no difference between a short stroke and a short partition for the first 700 GB. The difference is, with the short stroked drive, the graph ends at 700 GB.

The reason why I left the back 1300 GB unused: when you defragment, you only need to defragment 700 GB. The back 1300 GB is unpartitioned, thus there is no data on it, and cannot be fragmented. If I short stroked the drive, and subsequently filled the drive, I would need to back up and reformat. When I short partition the drive, and subsequently fill up the drive, I can just have Windows expand the partition into the hollow space.


----------



## ny_driver

Thanks for clarifying that. I guess I hadn't quite decided yet, but now I think I will just short partition the 2 x 1TB drives @ 30%, (I should test 1 first to see where it starts slowing down) and do RAID 0, while keeping my 250GB for "important data backup".


----------



## BlackOmega

Hey thanks fellas. Back at the hospital, had to make an appearance at my wife's sisters wedding reception.

As for RAID and short stroking, as Blitz has said, there is no noticeable difference between short stroking and short partitioning. If anything, I personally, have noticed a better speed boost from the short partition than a short stroke using my particular drives. I tested both using RAID 0 for consistency. 
Short stroked I had slightly better average read/write times. However, I had WAY better burst speeds with short partition. Mind you I SS'd 3 250 GB drives to 250 GB and it still wasn't any faster than a short partition.

However, with short partition my burst speeds were amazingly fast --over 2000MB/s.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Congrats B.O.!


Omega, your initials are unfortunate.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


Omega, your initials are unfortunate.


 I know.









I guess I didn't think my name over enough. Most people either call me Omega or black.


----------



## CarlR

Well, I noticed the Socket 939 Appreciation Club and couldn't resist the urge to register on overclock.net









http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1254411

Yup, a Sempron 3400+, bit sluggy, but has served me well since about 2005 or 2006, when I got this (used) PC


----------



## Blitz6804

Welcome aboard CarlR!


----------



## Jacka

Hello 939ers!

I just found the following lot on ebay and thought some members of the club might be interested.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Lot-10-Opteron-1...#ht_3804wt_912

Less than $80 each!










He is a trusted seller, I've bought a large number of 1207 Opterons from him and was looking for some more.


----------



## mnorris80

Here's the situation:

Asus A8N Sli Premium
Opteron 170 Socket 939
4x 1gb Corsair XMS2 TwinXL DDR (matched pairs)
Raid 0 configuration
Sapphire Radeon HD5770

I cannot overclock this thing past 2190mhz. The Windows 7 driver certification for the processor appears to think that I am no longer running an Opteron 170 if I go to 2200mhz or above. It blue screens and gives an error message about an uncertified driver.

Is there a way around this? I have this thing cooled to the point that the processor runs just 2 degrees celcius above room temperature under heavy load. It does not appear to be any stability issue, because I have stress tested the thing with every utility there is, at 2190mhz, and it will remain stable for 24 hours (that's the longest I've tested).

I know there's a way to disable certified driver requirements in 64-bit windows 7, but I don't know how to do it any other way besides putting in commands upon every boot of the machine.

The only thing I haven't tried is first overclocking the thing beyond 2200mhz and then installing windows (and seeing if it detects a different processor or whatever).

Any tips? Am I even in the right thread? I imagine backing down to 32-bit Windows 7 would get it done, but the problem is that I bought an OEM version that only came with the 64-bit install. I also use AutoCAD, which takes advantage of 64-bit processors, along with several other lighting design programs that do the same thing.

Again, apologies if I posted this in the wrong thread, but it is a 939 processor (I bought it in February of 2010, and it was still new in the box!)

I left memory timings as they appear on the stickers for the memory (3-3-3-8)


----------



## ny_driver

I had no problem overclocking my Opty 180 in Windows 7 Ultimate x64. I was using an ASUS A8R32-MVP Deluxe.

EDIT: try with just 2 sticks of memory. My 170 CCB1E is stable @ 2.9Ghz. Ohhh and welcome.


----------



## mnorris80

Did you use the generic CPU driver that came from Microsoft? There are no drivers available for this mobo, for Windows 7, but Microsoft did produce numerous drivers to address the issue. I'm just not sure if there's an "official" driver outside of the one that came from Microsoft?

(It would be really neato if you could send me yer machine specs - namely, drivers related to the processor and motherboard)

Ya, I guess I could pull two sticks. Seems like 2gb of memory on this machine might make it chug a bit, but I may as well fiddle-diddle with it and see what happens.

Also, I'm not sure if power management could be related to this issue? I know it will throttle the CPU up and down (depending on settings). I have it set to boost the fans first, but it never gets warm enough to matter, I don't think?

I'll give it another whirl in the next couple of days with two sticks of memory and what-not, and see what I can see. Thanks for the reply.


----------



## ny_driver

I just made sure I had the latest greatest bios and popped the cpu in, then install OS and then fully update windows.

No special drivers needed for the cpu on any board I have used. You can use the dual-core optimizer, but it's not necessary.

2 GB memory should be fine, in fact ideal, for socket 939 because you can run them at 1T command rate and overclock them further than with 4 sticks.


----------



## mnorris80

K, that is one thing about it.

The Asus mobo is v1101 BIOS, but 1303 is the latest version. The problem is that I have no floppy drive in this machine, and the Asus update utility will not run in Windows 7 for me (again, says missing driver, due to unsigned drivers).

I have to figure a way to put what would normally go on a bootable floppy onto a bootable CD, I guess. The only thing I know of that would allow that is Nero.

Hilariously, the version of Nero that came with my DVD drive actually causes BSOD on autorun in Windows 7, and then requires you to completely reinstall the OS. On Nero's site, it says that Nero 8 is not compatible with my version of Windows 7.

Know of another program that will burn a bootable CD/DVD?


----------



## ny_driver

1 GB flash drive?


----------



## Blitz6804

I personally run ISORecorder v3.1. As to your system, when you have 4 GB of double-sided memory, you must use the DDR-333 divider or slower, or you will over tax the internal memory controller and cause instability. For the record, with 219x10 DDR-333, your memory will run at DDR-365, so if it is specced for DDR-400 3-3-3-8, it should be stable.

While you should not have any problem with Windows 7 and 2 GB, I would try to get the 4 GB working if at all possible. However, if you pull two and it works fine, then some of your memory could be bad, or your CPU might have a faulty memory controller.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


I personally run ISORecorder v3.1. As to your system, when you have 4 GB of double-sided memory, you must use the DDR-333 divider or slower, or you will over tax the internal memory controller and cause instability. For the record, with 219x10 DDR-333, your memory will run at DDR-365, so if it is specced for DDR-400 3-3-3-8, it should be stable.

While you should not have any problem with Windows 7 and 2 GB, I would try to get the 4 GB working if at all possible. However, if you pull two and it works fine, then some of your memory could be bad, or your CPU might have a faulty memory controller.


I'd have to agree here. You MUST run the DDR333 divider OR LOWER. Your RAM COULD be unstable anywhere past DDR333, so try to keep your RAM at or below that for now.

Also, DISABLE ALL power management features in Windows. And turn CnQ off in BIOS (use the "High Performance" setting in Windows).

Give those a shot, and then get back to us. I've got experience (as does a few other members in here) with running 4GB of RAM in Windows 7 x64.

And for the record, I just use the generic Windows drivers for EVERYTHING, except my GPU.


----------



## Blitz6804

Oh, and make sure you try disabling "Spread Spectrum" everywhere you see it in the BIOS. Unless you have a pacemaker or other sensitive equipment it should not be needed. Once we get things stable at the speed you want, then try turning it back on if you want. (I notice that my PCs tend to have more static electricity when spread spectra are turned off than when they are on. Go figure, it actually does what it is supposed to!)


----------



## ny_driver

4GHz....passed s&m, running prime blend now.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


4GHz....passed s&m, running prime blend now.










Hey wait, that's not 939!









Congrats though







.


----------



## ny_driver

I still have a 939 downstairs. Neo2 platinum with 3700+ and 2GB Crucial. This CrosshairIV rocks!


----------



## Blitz6804

You have your own build thread for me to poke my head in ny_driver?


----------



## ny_driver

Ohhh I'm such a slacker...I do plan to put together a thread with lots of pictures and any of the test results and temperatures I can recall. I'm not real big on taking notes. Look for it by the weekend.

EDIT: made it through 1 hour of prime blend...time to increase the NB frequency. I may have a new 3dmark score by the end of the night.


----------



## PROBN4LYFE

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
4GHz....passed s&m, running prime blend now.









OMG I need to put my cooler on...lmao


----------



## Blitz6804

PM me the link if you would be so kind. I am a little jealous you are already 17 MHz faster than me, but then again, I am almost 24-hours stable and you are just about to start stability testing.


----------



## ny_driver

Definitely will send you a link. I'll run prime all night....might as well. EDIT: NB up to 2587MHz.


----------



## PROBN4LYFE

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
PM me the link if you would be so kind. I am a little jealous you are already 17 MHz faster than me, but then again, I am almost 24-hours stable and you are just about to start stability testing.

I'm tryin to find my 3200 Venice before I slave my 4000+ into my DFI board...my youngan gets my X2







!
Oh ill get 3GHZ plus...tomorrow cuz im about 2 drinks too short to concentrate on the AS5 app
I'll get it in


----------



## Blitz6804

As to PRONE's system configuration PROBN4LYFE, I believe that is DDR3-1600 8-8-8-24, unless the "stock" settings you have are done for humor. In which case, I honestly did chuckle.


----------



## ny_driver

EDIT: 8 hours of prime blend no sweat!







How high can I get it?

17728 3dmark score @ 4Ghz with 1 VGA @ stock and memory underclocked.

FSB/Multi: 287/14
CPU speed: 4017MHz
NB speed: 2582.7
CPU voltage: 1.452
CPU/NB voltage: 1.11
RAM speed/timings: 1148MHz 6-6-6-18-20-1T
Motherboard: ASUS Crosshair IV Formula

EDIT: Tonight I got only 16,700 points in 3dmark and the only differences in my settings are gpu slightly overclocked, and memory @ 1525 7-6-6-24-27-1T







maybe the timings have a bigger impact than the speed. I'll have to experiment.

EDIT:18,767 points using AMD Fusion Utility @ 4050MHz cpu/1600MHz memory/ gpu stock

EDIT: 19,800 points CPU @ 4.2GHz memory 1200MHz 6-6-6-18, GPU 900/1050--I can't wait to get my other 4890 back from RMA.


----------



## mnorris80

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


I personally run ISORecorder v3.1. As to your system, when you have 4 GB of double-sided memory, you must use the DDR-333 divider or slower, or you will over tax the internal memory controller and cause instability. For the record, with 219x10 DDR-333, your memory will run at DDR-365, so if it is specced for DDR-400 3-3-3-8, it should be stable.

While you should not have any problem with Windows 7 and 2 GB, I would try to get the 4 GB working if at all possible. However, if you pull two and it works fine, then some of your memory could be bad, or your CPU might have a faulty memory controller.


I'll give that program a try.

It really seems to be something with the driver certification. That's the error windows gives, it specifies it to the CPU, and everything is stable at 2190mhz. A single bump of 10mhz, and the whole thing won't boot, ever.

Really, I'm not even sure it's an issue. The thing blows away most 3D apps at stock speed (these Opterons were very stout performers). Still, I'd wanted to run the thing as far as possible and have a cooling system in place (but not installed), to cool the processor down to almost the freezing point.

I'll tinker w/ it this week and get back. First step is to get the BIOS fully updated to 1303.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I FOUND OUT WHAT MY PROBLEM WAS WITH THE OPTERON!!!!!!

Thank you N2 for you help in Steam, I would never have thought about it otherwise!!!

I reseated the Opteron to HOPEFULLY cure the high temperatures on Core 2. That actually worked!!! Core 1 and Core 2 are now 1-3*C different (for some reason CPU temp is still higher though???).

Disabled the Marvell LAN card, and my odd lock ups have gone away!!!


----------



## theCanadian




----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*




















































































































I FOUND OUT WHAT MY PROBLEM WAS WITH THE OPTERON!!!!!!

Thank you N2 for you help in Steam, I would never have thought about it otherwise!!!

I reseated the Opteron to HOPEFULLY cure the high temperatures on Core 2. That actually worked!!! Core 1 and Core 2 are now 1-3*C different (for some reason CPU temp is still higher though???).

Disabled the Nvidia LAN card, and my odd lock ups have gone away!!!










































































































:wheee


Sweet. Whats best strategy for re-seating a CPU? Like, how to tell when it feels secure ... or perfect?


----------



## ny_driver

Lay the computer on it's side and remove the video card and anything else that may be in the way(difficult if it is in the loop, you might better drain out and remove the hoses). Set it on there while applying some even pressure and make sure you don't let up while getting it secured in place. Twist it back and forth a couple degrees to get even cover of TIM while doing this....probably impossible not to.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*


Sweet. Whats best strategy for re-seating a CPU? Like, how to tell when it feels secure ... or perfect?


Best way I can tell is if the temperatures are reading as close to accurate as they can.

If you're using a direct touch heatpipe cooler, I've found using the double line method is best (3 heatpipes, put a line in between each set of heatpipes, 2 lines).

Like the image below







.


----------



## Kryton

Nice tip Pio and congrats on fixing the Opty!
Now I need to see if I can get my 165 going properly.

Not long ago I bought a Thermaltake V1 cooler to use with my 555BE chip and it's been doing good so far, better than the Arctic Freezer Pro 64 I was using with it. It's a big cooler that's an all copper unit with two 110mm fans (Push/Pull) and has a variable speed controller made onto it. I'm going to setup one of my 939's and see how it will do with it and be running the Asus board since it's still setup for aircooling. Once done, I'll let you guys know how my temps are with this cooler. Right now temps are pretty good with the 555BE and it seems to handle it even if I unlock the extra cores but once clocks and voltage get high, it shows it's limitations. 
Since I still have it on air, well, that's to be expected but I can get 4.1 easily as a dual.

You can only do so much on aircooling as I've found out.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Nice tip Pio and congrats on fixing the Opty!
Now I need to see if I can get my 165 going properly.

Not long ago I bought a Thermaltake V1 cooler to use with my 555BE chip and it's been doing good so far, better than the Arctic Freezer Pro 64 I was using with it. It's a big cooler that's an all copper unit with two 110mm fans (Push/Pull) and has a variable speed controller made onto it. I'm going to setup one of my 939's and see how it will do with it and be running the Asus board since it's still setup for aircooling. Once done, I'll let you guys know how my temps are with this cooler. Right now temps are pretty good with the 555BE and it seems to handle it even if I unlock the extra cores but once clocks and voltage get high, it shows it's limitations.
Since I still have it on air, well, that's to be expected but I can get 4.1 easily as a dual.

You can only do so much on aircooling as I've found out.

Looks like they've improved it. Version 2 perhaps?

I bought one of the V1's a while ago, and quite honestly, it performed worse than my stock Opteron cooler with a Tornado fan on it. It couldn't handle my 180 OC'd at all. However, I believe the PHII's run a wee bit cooler than the 939's so it should be ok with that.

BTW, the first V1 that was sent to me was all sorts of messed up, fins pushed together, epoxy between a lot of the fins and so on. I RMA'd it immediately. The second one was free from defects. However, it still exhibited lackluster performance. Returned that one too.

Then I bought a refurb Big Typhoon. And just like the V1's, the base on the BT was concave. After lapping, the BT performed phenomenally. It is on par, if not slightly better than my Xiggy dark knight. At the higher voltages/frequencies, the BT actually performs better.

I've been thinking of getting another high end cooler and doing a comparison between the three.


----------



## Blitz6804

In all fairness, a 555 BE is 80 W TDP, whereas the Opteron 180 is a 110 W TDP. That in itself should do better. When the 555 BE is unlocked to a quad core, it is likely around 125 W, more with increased voltage, which could explained why the cooler fails with a high-clocked quad while it is fine for the dual.


----------



## Kryton

Most likely that's the case Blitz but it is an improvement over what I was using. Haven't tried it with anything else since I've had it and I can tell you the 555 unlocked does throw alot of heat. H2O or better would be the way to find it's max potential.
I'm sure though it would be OK for a 939 in most cases.

I haven't noted the surface of this one being concave but then again, I haven't really checked it for this problem either so it may actually be.


----------



## BlackOmega

I believe it's more the size of the die rather than the cooler. I'm betting the 939 chips are actually larger and thus require a larger surface area to dissipate the heat efficiently.

Kryton, definitely check the base. You could have gotten lucky and got a nice flat one, however, my experience with Tt is that all of the bases are concave. I am quite finicky when it comes to machined surfaces. My BT varied slightly more than 0.005".


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 


















































































































I FOUND OUT WHAT MY PROBLEM WAS WITH THE OPTERON!!!!!!

Thank you N2 for you help in Steam, I would never have thought about it otherwise!!!

Disabled the Nvidia LAN card, and my odd lock ups have gone away!!!



















































































































NP YW GTH easy fix too.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
NP YW GTH easy fix too.









I forgot one thing in that post (will edit to fix in a second). It was the Marvell LAN controller that was faulty. When connected to it, I got no IP, no gateway, nothing. Reset the adapter and my modem, and still nothing. Rebooted...still nothing.

So I disabled the Marvell controller, and am using the Nvidia controller. I'm now about 36 hours [email protected] stable at the clocks in my sig







.


----------



## nategr8ns

^ Nice. I had to switch back and forth between my two LAN controllers once, now I just use the uppermost one (I think its the Nvidia one).


----------



## macca_dj

How do I join ?
AMD Opteron 185 A8N32-SLI DELUXE 4Gig,
AMD 3500+ A8N-SLI DELUXE 3Gig,
AMD 3500+ DFI LANPARTY UT RDX200 2Gig,


----------



## Havokr505

Mr.Havok wants be added tooo
















AMD opteron 165 @ 2.7GHz ---> Asus A8n-SLI premium ---> 2Gb corsair XMS
AMD Athlon x2 4200+ @ 2.8GHz----> DFI Lanparty UT Ultra-D SLI mod ---> 2gb OCZ gold


----------



## Blitz6804

macca_dj: Just post a CPUz validation like Havokr505 did.

To be honest Havokr505, I know you posted like two weeks ago, but I have not yet updated the off-site. The on-site roster also seems to be down right now, but we will fix that as soon as possible.


----------



## macca_dj

Hope this helps

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1268200

Also is this a good chip ?


----------



## theCanadian

Can you post the offsite roster? I need to bookmark it.

Edit: I found it.


----------



## macca_dj

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


Can you post the offsite roster? I need to bookmark it.


Who is this in responce to ?


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I believe it's more the size of the die rather than the cooler. I'm betting the 939 chips are actually larger and thus require a larger surface area to dissipate the heat efficiently.

Kryton, definitely check the base. You could have gotten lucky and got a nice flat one, however, my experience with Tt is that all of the bases are concave. I am quite finicky when it comes to machined surfaces. My BT varied slightly more than 0.005".

Believe this one may be a tad concave as well and my temps are a bit high but ambient temps in the room right now are also warm right now. Using the 180 Opty with it right now and temps are about average but still better than the old cooler.


----------



## N2Gaming

GRID now! we have 5 racers atm.


----------



## theCanadian

In GRID, global cup, pro tuned, Extreme difficulty, 11.56s gap between me and second place.

I'm done for the night, but what about tomorrow? Any takers?


----------



## ny_driver

I'll re-download it tonight...says like 11 hours.









I'll give it a whirl tomorrow.


----------



## ny_driver

It's downloaded and ready to play.









I also wanted to say how I totally agree with the theory that when you give a chip more volts, the temperature tolerance goes down. Hence...my chip was good 2 days ago @ 4.2GHz/1.55v etc..etc...the max temp reached running Intel Burn Test/Maximum Stress was 50c.

Today, @ the exact same settings it continues to fail IBT. The only differences are that I added another 4890 to the loop, and the CPU is now reaching 52-54c.

I lowered the chip to 4.0GHz/1.5v, so my temp tolerance probably went up a bit, but the chip only hit 49c during IBT this time and passed no problem.

When I can get it colder in here I'll try IBT @ 4.2GHz again, to either prove or disprove my theory on my instability. I'm leaving it @ 4Ghz now...I may need to build a 2nd loop just for GPUs.


----------



## ny_driver

Sorry for the triple post, but...........

EDIT: theory proven to be correct!

Today at the exact same settings,(4.2GHz/1.55v/1600MHz mem/2400MHz NB-HT) with it much cooler in here, I ran IBT/MAX and the max temperature reached was only 47c.







BRRRRR!!!!

Passed with flying colors.









Thanks BlackOmega, and Blitz6804 who both explained this theory to me awhile back, IIRC.


----------



## Blitz6804

No problems man, I am glad to hear you worked it out... although I am a bit jealous of how much better you are clocked than I am.


----------



## ny_driver

What voltage are you running now anyways. And what are the maximum temps?

Have you tried Intel Burn Test?


----------



## Blitz6804

It seems to be nothing more than a different GUI for Linpack than LinX.


----------



## ny_driver

Hmm......I've never tried any other Linpack, but I like IBT. Very simple and fast.









Do you use LinX as well as double prime.....from what I've read, Linpack is way more stressful than prime. I'm all done with prime.


----------



## Blitz6804

In my experience, LinX gets a system hotter than two instances of prime, but does not test as thoroughly. I had a system pass 500 runs of LinX (longest setting available, almost 19 hours) and crash not long after loading up a double prime bout. Sure it is good for testing maximum temps, but I call that worthless for testing stability. (Note also, the same settings crashed within seconds of starting a game, [email protected] caused bluescreens. I have yet to have a double-prime stable have a problem with anything but CPUz.)


----------



## ny_driver

If you run IBT on maximum stress it tests the memory much harder, from what I've read.

I'm going to continue to use it because it's fast. But I am also considering the fact that Intel tests their CPUs with it.

Try your double prime stable highest overclock out with IBT-Maximum stress level and get back to me. (or haven't you finished running prime on it yet







) lol


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


In my experience, LinX gets a system hotter than two instances of prime, but does not test as thoroughly. I had a system pass 500 runs of LinX (longest setting available, almost 19 hours) and crash not long after loading up a double prime bout. Sure it is good for testing maximum temps, but I call that worthless for testing stability. (Note also, the same settings crashed within seconds of starting a game, [email protected] caused bluescreens. I have yet to have a double-prime stable have a problem with anything but CPUz.)


EDIT: I read many a story(well, 4 or 5) where a system passed prime for 20 hours and crashed in 2 minutes of IBT. Actually maybe I just read that article 4 times.....


----------



## Bogeyone001

Hey long time no talk guys. How is everyone doing? just been out of the country for a while and figured id stop by







all is well here except for the loss of a stick of ram







so sad cuz id rather just build a new rig and save the money its gonna cost to get more ram


----------



## theCanadian

So uh, Demo derby tonight? Or am I going to have to read "_White Fang_" again?

@Bogey 
All's good with me, welcome back


----------



## N2Gaming

I may play a little. What time did you have in mind?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Canadian, if you are talking about GRID, I'm in







. Just let me know via Steam whenever you're ready. Steam is down for me right now, but I don't think it'll take them too long to get it back up???


----------



## theCanadian

Well, I wound up reading anyway. It's too late for me start now. I left it kinda late to ask anyway. But definitely some demo derby this weekend. Who's in for THAT?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


Well, I wound up reading anyway. It's too late for me start now. I left it kinda late to ask anyway. But definitely some demo derby this weekend. Who's in for THAT?


Unfortunately I won't be







. I will likely be moving this weekend, and I likely won't have internet for a few weeks.


----------



## Blitz6804

I am probably out too. The final crunch of bar review is starting. Tomorrow I take the last lecture, Saturday I take the final essay practice exam. Then I am giving a week to go over New York and Multistate notes, likely until the 17th. Then the 18th-22nd I am studying Massachusetts. From then on, if I do not know it, I guess I just will not. I gotta clean the apartment on the morning of the 23rd (am supposed to have a party that evening, but the RSVP turnout so far is pretty poor) and my mother and elder sister* will be here on the 24th until after the bar exams. So basically, after Friday night, I am off-limits until pretty much July 30th when it is all over.

Speaking of July 30th, please remember to remind all your friends and clients it is system administrator appreciation day. (Last Friday of every July.) Those that do not show appreciation will remember that the next time their rig breaks... at least, that is how I am doing it this year.

*Bringing with her my second dog (also a Pomeranian) and her two dogs (both King Charles Cavalier Spaniels).


----------



## BlackOmega

Hey guys I just got Win7 pro x64 and am testing it out on one of my folding rigs (3800x2, DFI ultra-D, 1GB HyperX). At any rate, I went to install some of the drivers and other utilities, like smartguardian, and of course the driver disk is loaded with only 32bit stuff. I suppose I could live without smart guardian (can just use Everest) but what about some of the other drivers, like the chipset and whatnot?


----------



## ny_driver

Hmmm I don't know....I ran Windows 7 64x on my 939 rig for a little while with very few issues.

I don't know what I did but it worked fine after I got it set up. Sorry not more helpful.


----------



## BlackOmega

Thanks NY, it seems to run just fine with "boxed" driver, but I haven't tried anything in SLI or the like. I'm going to try the Vista x64 driver for the chipset and see what happens.

Or maybe I can run the old ones in XP mode (where ever the hell that is







). 
Arg, everything feels so foreign with this OS.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Thanks NY, it seems to run just fine with "boxed" driver, but I haven't tried anything in SLI or the like. I'm going to try the Vista x64 driver for the chipset and see what happens.

Or maybe I can run the old ones in XP mode (where ever the hell that is







). 
Arg, everything feels so foreign with this OS.










Well, I'm PERSONALLY just using the drivers that came with Windows 7. Work great for me (same board even). The only drivers I had to find were Audio and Video drivers. That's it. And everything was found in Device Manager.

Now if you happen to NEED to force different drivers to be used, the Vista x64 drivers would be the ones to use.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Arg, everything feels so foreign with this OS.










Yeah tell me about it. It took me a minute to get use to it. Once I did though I found that it's a much easier OS to do things in. Just learning how to navigate around it a real PITA at first but the little search box above the start button will find any thing you want to find.









Say you want to uninstall software. search add remove software etc etc and it should pop up several options for you to choose.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Well, I'm PERSONALLY just using the drivers that came with Windows 7. Work great for me (same board even). The only drivers I had to find were Audio and Video drivers. That's it. And everything was found in Device Manager.

Now if you happen to NEED to force different drivers to be used, the Vista x64 drivers would be the ones to use.


 Well I installed the Vista64 chipset driver and it seems to work just fine. However, I don't have any games or anything installed at the moment.

What audio driver did you use?

At any rate I also installed the latest video driver for my Asus 9600GSO's (257.21), and re-ran the windows experience thing. What a crock of sh** that thing is. This rig is using an IDE HDD and is rated at 5.7. My i7 rig, before the RAID array with a SATA II HDD was rated @ 5.9. And one of those SATA drives is WAY WAY WAY faster than this IDE drive. Then after RAIDing my i7 rig, my HDD score is _still_ 5.9. 
Awesome M$ just freakin awesome guys. thanks.


----------



## Phaedrus2129

So I have an old 90nm skt939 Athlon64 3000+.

Any reason not to turn it into a keychain?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Phaedrus2129*


So I have an old 90nm skt939 Athlon64 3000+.

Any reason not to turn it into a keychain?


Could make it in to a freebie.









Would be a good processor just to run a folding rig.


----------



## redhat_ownage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Phaedrus2129*


So I have an old 90nm skt939 Athlon64 3000+.

Any reason not to turn it into a keychain?


nope the most you can get out of that cpu if its a 90NM is about 2.8ghz with 1.65V.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well I installed the Vista64 chipset driver and it seems to work just fine. However, I don't have any games or anything installed at the moment.

What audio driver did you use?

At any rate I also installed the latest video driver for my Asus 9600GSO's (257.21), and re-ran the windows experience thing. What a crock of sh** that thing is. This rig is using an IDE HDD and is rated at 5.7. My i7 rig, before the RAID array with a SATA II HDD was rated @ 5.9. And one of those SATA drives is WAY WAY WAY faster than this IDE drive. Then after RAIDing my i7 rig, my HDD score is _still_ 5.9. 
Awesome M$ just freakin awesome guys. thanks.










I don't remember EXACTLY what audio driver I used. I got it off Realtek's website though. I'll just see if I can attach it here.

And I agree on the WIE. It's a JUNK benchmark. I cannot believe how many threads I've seen about it here on OCN. You'd think OCN'ers would know that by know







.

I'd kind of like to know how my measely 4850 scores a 7.3 / 7.9. And my CPU scores 5.9 / 7.9 (RAM does too). There's MUCH better out there, why am I rating so high?

And my IDE drive scores a 5.3 for comparison







.

Seeing as how I cannot upload the file for whatever reason....

I think my current audio driver was just through Windows Update. It's reporting Nvidia NForce Audio Device now. Works just fine.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Phaedrus2129*


So I have an old 90nm skt939 Athlon64 3000+.

Any reason not to turn it into a keychain?


Here's an EXCELLENT reason to NOT turn it into a keychain. Get yourself a NF4 SLI board (or find somebody that has one), a couple of GTS250's (or your card of choice)...and FOLD FOLD FOLD!!!!

If you're not into that sort of thing, freebie it. However I would PERSONALLY do my best to make sure the user that gets it can actually use it. No reason to destroy perfectly working hardware in my opinion. I've got Pentium 3's in my storage unit that I intend to continue using.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Could make it in to a freebie.









Would be a good processor just to run a folding rig.


You beat me to it







. I was going to type that, but I was in the process of attempting to upload your driver







.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage*


nope the most you can get out of that cpu if its a 90NM is about 2.8ghz with 1.65V.


2.8GHz could be achieveable. Mine hits 2.60GHz







. Mine is the core though that doesn't clock well (Venice or Winchester, don't remember right now). But I have seen those 3000's hit 3.0GHz. It just takes the right chip is all.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I don't remember EXACTLY what audio driver I used. I got it off Realtek's website though. I'll just see if I can attach it here.

And I agree on the WIE. It's a JUNK benchmark. I cannot believe how many threads I've seen about it here on OCN. You'd think OCN'ers would know that by know







.

I'd kind of like to know how my measely 4850 scores a 7.3 / 7.9. And my CPU scores 5.9 / 7.9 (RAM does too). There's MUCH better out there, why am I rating so high?

And my IDE drive scores a 5.3 for comparison







.

Seeing as how I cannot upload the file for whatever reason....

I think my current audio driver was just through Windows Update. It's reporting Nvidia NForce Audio Device now. Works just fine.

I always knew how bad the WEI is but it never ceases to amaze me at how bad it actually is. This HDD should score at best like 3.5, yes, it's that freakin bad. Yet it scores much higher. And I can't believe that going from a single drive to 3 in RAID 0 which over-doubled the throughput, didn't change the score one bit. M$ fail.

In regards to your 4850, it's actually not a bad card at all. Sure it's not the latest and greatest, but for when win7 and the WEI was developed, I'm sure it was right up there.

As for the audio driver, I'm not really too worried about it (I still haven't even plugged speakers in). I was just mainly using this rig to test how the win 7 install would go on my i7.


----------



## ny_driver

I was getting 5.5 for my SATA 250GB, and I switched to a 1TB SATA3 Short-Partitioned @ 25% and it only went up to 5.9.

I get 7.4 CPU, 7.4 memory, and 7.5 for graphics and gaming.


----------



## Blitz6804

Windows Experience Index is quite flawwed yes. For one, it will not give any Windows 7 PC without a solid state drive or a RAID a score any higher than 5.9. It is just not possible. I have four in RAID 10, better than double the throughput of a single drive (282 MBps versus 121 MBps) and I still only get 6.2. For two, it is WAAAAAY to generous most of the time.

My desktop reads: 7.6 / 7.6 / 7.7 / 7.7 / 6.2
My laptop reads: 5.9 / 5.9 / 4.8 / 5.9 / 5.9

In GRID:

My desktop gets 120 FPS at 1920x1080, maxed out
My laptop gets 35 FPS at 640x480, bottomed out

How that difference equates to 1.8 / 6.9 I have no idea. By the way, the astute will notice that my laptop (Core 2 Duo / HD 2600) almost pegged Vista, failing only on "Graphics." According to that then, Crysis should run great (3.0 required, 5.0 recommended), whereas if I remember right, it go 15 FPS in Dx9 mode, 640x480, bottomed out. WinFail much?


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Phaedrus2129*


So I have an old 90nm skt939 Athlon64 3000+.

Any reason not to turn it into a keychain?


Well its not really worth much money. I got a 3000+ and a 3700+ for free (I don't even think I paid shipping), so that tells you their value. Definitely worth something to people like me who's 939 processors died and can't (or couldn't at the time) afford a new dual core.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Well its not really worth much money. I got a 3000+ and a 3700+ for free (I don't even think I paid shipping), so that tells you their value. Definitely worth something to people like me who's 939 processors died and can't (or couldn't at the time) afford a new dual core.


You could always send it here and I'll clock the ^&@!(*)!!! out of it.









Are both chips the same core type? 
Sounds to me like the 3700 could be a San Diego core and those are actually good chips, worth keeping around with a good MB.


----------



## nategr8ns

I could only clock it to 2.7 OCCT stable (at least by my standards). Hasn't given me any trouble there. 2.8 was not stable in OCCT and I didn't bother trying my luck in games. I need it at least until I get another dual core.


----------



## Bogeyone001

@ thecanadian,
thanks









To all; I am looking to upgrade my parts, i will be giving my old parts to a friend in need once i obtain a new working rig.
I'm not looking for anything expensive just someones used parts that are definitely better than mine.
I cant post in the wanted section quite yet due to lack of rep so im putting it out here.
If anyone has anything they are wanting to get rid of for a decent price pls let me know via pm.

I wont be needing a graphics card, HDD, or sound card for now.

Thanks all!!


----------



## BlackOmega

Alright, so another 939 rig update. I installed all 4 of my Corsairs to get me to a total of 4GB, had to enable remapping in BIOS, although it's not called that (slips my mind at the moment). Boot in to windows check comp properties and only 3.75 are usable. So I went in to msconfig and enabled the max memory button. Come back and only 2,75 were available. Uncheck it and back to 3.75.

You guys have any ideas? I made a thread about it and one of the posters said that it's possible that because the board only supports 4GB system memory that some of that might be due to the GPUs'. But under the remap setting it said to enable when trying to use MORE than 4GB.

I'm going to try installing Assassins Creed and see how this rig performs in DX10 mode.


----------



## ny_driver

Speaking of the stupid WEI.....my rig passes 10 runs of IBT @ 4.2GHz with 1.525v and max temp of 46c, however when I run WEI the system crashes(BSOD) shortly into it. I have tried upping the voltage to the 1.55 I was using and doesn't help.

Haven't had any random crashes that make me wonder besides that.

The BSOD I got the first time was "a clock interrupt cycle was not received on a secondary processor within the allocated time interval"...then I upped the vcore a bit and received a BSOD, but this time it says "Memory Management"

I read up on this BSOD and all the articles are pretty old, but they mostly point to maybe a core going bad, or possibly a driver issue.....so I ran burn test for 10 runs @ MAX and no problems there.

Now I am scratching my head a little bit and wondering what the deal with that is. I could lower the overclock and run WEI to test, but I'm pretty confident my cpu/memory etc...is stable after 10 runs of Burn Test.

Ideas and suggestions please. Thanks mateys.

EDIT: seems that after running prime for a while that core 4 and 5 need more than a setting of 1.525v. they each failed after a three minutes and change....but I upped the vcore back to 1.55v and it's been running prime for 15 minutes now.......all passed 1024k so far......... I still wonder about WEI though.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Speaking of the stupid WEI.....my rig passes 10 runs of IBT @ 4.2GHz with 1.525v and max temp of 46c, however when I run WEI the system crashes(BSOD) shortly into it. I have tried upping the voltage to the 1.55 I was using and doesn't help.

Haven't had any random crashes that make me wonder besides that.

The BSOD I got the first time was "a clock interrupt cycle was not received on a secondary processor within the allocated time interval"...then I upped the vcore a bit and received a BSOD, but this time it says "Memory Management"

I read up on this BSOD and all the articles are pretty old, but they mostly point to maybe a core going bad, or possibly a driver issue.....so I ran burn test for 10 runs @ MAX and no problems there.

Now I am scratching my head a little bit and wondering what the deal with that is. I could lower the overclock and run WEI to test, but I'm pretty confident my cpu/memory etc...is stable after 10 runs of Burn Test.

Ideas and suggestions please. Thanks mateys.

EDIT: seems that after running prime for a while that core 4 and 5 need more than a setting of 1.525v. they each failed after a three minutes and change....but I upped the vcore back to 1.55v and it's been running prime for 15 minutes now.......all passed 1024k so far......... I still wonder about WEI though.


 Was going to say, IBT and LinX aren't very good stress testers (ask blitz). I've never used them and I doubt I ever will.

At any rate, what are temps like?

After you run prime for a good long while to ensure stability, try running [email protected], that is probably the best tester out there since it not only helps humanity, but it also seems to be the most sensitive to errors.

AN update to my 939 win7 rig, tried installing Assassins creed, and during the installation, "detection error", try to launch the game and, it stops working. 
Awesome! So glad I got win 7.


----------



## ny_driver

I hear so many mixed opinions of the stress testing programs. I thought Intel uses Linpack to test their cpus before they go on the shelf. I hate running prime all night or day....it seems to me like a huge amount of unnecessary stress on the components.

Temps are fine....only hits 41c running prime tonight for half an hour, and 46c running IBT for ten runs. The temperature tolerance at this clock/voltage is ~52c I have concluded.

After installing [email protected] last time I had nothing but problems including a dead XFX 4890.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
I hear so many mixed opinions of the stress testing programs. I thought Intel uses Linpack to test their cpus before they go on the shelf. I hate running prime all night or day....it seems to me like a huge amount of unnecessary stress on the components.

Temps are fine....only hits 41c running prime tonight for half an hour, and 46c running IBT for ten runs. The temperature tolerance at this clock/voltage is ~52c I have concluded.

After installing [email protected] last time I had nothing but problems including a dead XFX 4890.

Well linpack might be good for intel CPUs', but definitely not for AMD's. Blitz ran 500 passes @ max in LinX (~18 hours IIRC), and his rig BSOD'd within minutes of running [email protected]

And speaking of [email protected], don't install the GPU clients, only the SMP client. And just let it run. You'll get points, contribute to OCN, and a great stress tester to boot.


----------



## ny_driver

Good news....I managed to make it through WEI twice with no problems.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Good news....I managed to make it through WEI twice with no problems.










IT's official WEI is the new determining factor for stability.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Well linpack might be good for intel CPUs', but definitely not for AMD's. Blitz ran 500 passes @ max in LinX (~18 hours IIRC), and his rig BSOD'd within minutes of running [email protected]

Exactly; 500 passes was about 18.5 hours and [email protected] killed it in minutes. However, temps were higher in LinX than in double Prime95 (by 4Âº C) and hotter than 4x CPU + 2x GPU [email protected] (by 13Âº C). That said, if I want to find my rig's maximum temperature, it is better to run this test twice (remember to clear your systray, kill sidebar, and disable Aero in Windows NT 6.0 or newer):










It pushes the rig another degree hotter than LinX, and you hit your max temp in 35-45 minutes. (LinX hit its max after about 5-6 hours since it keeps cycling on/off.)


----------



## dimwit13

Hello all!
i have just received a new motherboard-BIOSTAR TForce6100-939 939 NVIDIA GeForce 6100 Micro ATX AMD Motherboard . 
well i traded it for a CM V8 HSF.
i have 1.5 gigs ddr400 (2x512mb & 2x256mb) but plan on getting 4x1gig in the near future.
i have a 3870 for now.
i would like to know what is the best CPU that i should run in it? $100 max.
i didn't own a 939 system, so i am not sure about them.
i have done a little research and found that the FX series is the best? but expensive?
i want to run XP and play all my old games on it with a huge CRT monitor-old school style.

-dimwit-


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dimwit13* 
Hello all!
i have just received a new motherboard-BIOSTAR TForce6100-939 939 NVIDIA GeForce 6100 Micro ATX AMD Motherboard .
well i traded it for a CM V8 HSF.
i have 1.5 gigs ddr400 (2x512mb & 2x256mb) but plan on getting 4x1gig in the near future.
i have a 3870 for now.
i would like to know what is the best CPU that i should run in it? $100 max.
i didn't own a 939 system, so i am not sure about them.
i have done a little research and found that the FX series is the best? but expensive?
i want to run XP and play all my old games on it with a huge CRT monitor-old school style.

-dimwit-

Hey dimwit,
Ok lets address your issues, in order to run xp you don't need 4gb of ram. Remember that XP can only handle a total of 4gb of _total_ system memory, so that includes your gpus' and anything else that might have onboard memory. Aside from that, there is almost no noticeable difference in performance from 2 to 4 gb's with xp. 2gb is plenty, not to mention when you run 4DIMMs [sticks of ram] the memory will run in 2T mode and will be slower than only running 2 sticks, which will run in 1T.

Now on to the cpus', you are correct that the FX series are pretty much the best 939's out there. However, there are several other 939 cpus' that are also very good, such as the opteron series. They're server cpus' so most boards wont officially support them, however, I have yet to see a board that they wouldn't work on.

If you're planning on overclocking get an opteron 170. From what I have seen, they're pretty much the easiest to get to 3.0.
If you're not going to OC or your board doesn't support OCing, then an opteron 185 would be your best bet since it's the highest clocked 939 opteron @ 2.6 x2. Which matches the FX60, the only noticeable difference between the 2 is that the FX has an unlocked multiplier. However, the FX60's still go for a lot.

Note: 939's are 90nm so if you're planning on ocing, good cooling is a must. However, the stock opteron cooler, which has 4 heatpipes, is decent enough for at least a few hundred MHz, and if you put a crazy fan, like a tornado, on there, you should be able to keep it really cool. However, those little suckers are loud.


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hey dimwit,
Ok lets address your issues, in order to run xp you don't need 4gb of ram. Remember that XP can only handle a total of 4gb of _total_ system memory, so that includes your gpus' and anything else that might have onboard memory. Aside from that, there is almost no noticeable difference in performance from 2 to 4 gb's with xp. 2gb is plenty, not to mention when you run 4DIMMs [sticks of ram] the memory will run in 2T mode and will be slower than only running 2 sticks, which will run in 1T.

Now on to the cpus', you are correct that the FX series are pretty much the best 939's out there. However, there are several other 939 cpus' that are also very good, such as the opteron series. They're server cpus' so most boards wont officially support them, however, I have yet to see a board that they wouldn't work on.

If you're planning on overclocking get an opteron 170. From what I have seen, they're pretty much the easiest to get to 3.0.
If you're not going to OC or your board doesn't support OCing, then an opteron 185 would be your best bet since it's the highest clocked 939 opteron @ 2.6 x2. Which matches the FX60, the only noticeable difference between the 2 is that the FX has an unlocked multiplier. However, the FX60's still go for a lot.

Note: 939's are 90nm so if you're planning on ocing, good cooling is a must. However, the stock opteron cooler, which has 4 heatpipes, is decent enough for at least a few hundred MHz, and if you put a crazy fan, like a tornado, on there, you should be able to keep it really cool. However, those little suckers are loud.


Thanks
so 2x1gig dimms will be good enough?! (good cheaper)

i did a quick search and didnt find many opterons, and the ones i did fine were over my $100 budget. (i will do a better search later)
if for some reason i cant find a FX or opteron for under $100, is there another cpu that you could recomend? (athlon 64 x2 4800+?)

my motherboard supports overclocking, so i do plan on overclocking and plan on making sure the temps are under control.

-dimwit-


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dimwit13*


Thanks
so 2x1gig dimms will be good enough?! (good cheaper)

i did a quick search and didnt find many opterons, and the ones i did fine were over my $100 budget. (i will do a better search later)
if for some reason i cant find a FX or opteron for under $100, is there another cpu that you could recomend? (athlon 64 x2 4800+?)

my motherboard supports overclocking, so i do plan on overclocking and plan on making sure the temps are under control.

-dimwit-


 Yep, 2gb for xp is plenty, try to get some good sticks if you can, like the Corsair XMS's, but even some of the budget Corsair sticks work well also.

As for cpus', well you've just got to be patient, there are good deals to be had. 
But a good dual core alternative would be a 4400+, or a 4800+ since they have 2 x 1mb l2 cache. Avoid the 4600+ [depending on codename] since it only has 2 x 512 L2.


----------



## Blitz6804

An Athlon64 x2 4800+ = Opteron 180. It is a 12x multiplier by default. In my mind, the "ideal" overclock is 12x250 with 1:1 memory, id est, 3.0 GHz and DDR-500.

Personally, I preferred having 4 GB in XP to having 2 GB. However, that is mere preference, and XP is only marginally faster with that extra 2 GB. When it comes to Vista, 4 GB is pretty much required, as the system is usually sluggish with 2 GB. Windows 7 is somewhere between the two, with the effect more noticeable than with XP, but less than that of Vista.


----------



## dimwit13

hows this one.
Dual Core Opteron 170 CCBBE 0615EPMW Socket 939 
and this-
Corsair XMS DDR 400 Platinum CL2 2GB - CMX1024-3200C2PT
How are these prices?
they are both from the same person, maybe make him an offer?

-dimwit-


----------



## ny_driver

I had 2 Opteron 180s with the same exact stepping(CCBBE0615EPMW) and they ran stable at 2.7 and 2.8Ghz. Didn't get very hot. Looks like a pretty good buy on the cpu, but the memory is a little high IMO.

http://cgi.ebay.com/2GB-2-x-1GB-OCZ-...item3caed79a74

http://cgi.ebay.com/2x1GB-G-Skill-Du...item2c558c1bfd

I'd recommend these if you could get them for less. I have a set of the OCZ Platinum exactly like those and they do DDR500 no problem.


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I had 2 Opteron 180s with the same exact stepping(CCBBE0615EPMW) and they ran stable at 2.7 and 2.8Ghz. Didn't get very hot. Looks like a pretty good buy on the cpu, but the memory is a little high IMO.

http://cgi.ebay.com/2GB-2-x-1GB-OCZ-...item3caed79a74

http://cgi.ebay.com/2x1GB-G-Skill-Du...item2c558c1bfd

I'd recommend these if you could get them for less. I have a set of the OCZ Platinum exactly like those and they do DDR500 no problem.


this was the first ones i came across and was curious about prices.

i just started looking-i havent even looked here yet-








i will do more searching and let you guys know what i find, then i will se which is the best price/performance.

thanks for the help

-dimwit-


----------



## pioneerisloud

@Dimwit:
If you CANNOT find an Opteron (CCBBE / LCBxE (x being Q or 9)), then I would search for an X2 Toledo core. Avoid the Manchester cores like the plague.

Corsair XMS RAM is by far some of the best I've ever ran. I had OCZ Platinum's, I hated them. My XMS sticks hit DDR533 stable (only 2 sticks, any 2 though).


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Yep, 2gb for xp is plenty, try to get some good sticks if you can, like the Corsair XMS's, but even some of the budget Corsair sticks work well also.

As for cpus', well you've just got to be patient, there are good deals to be had. 
But a good dual core alternative would be a 4400+, or a 4800+ since they have 2 x 1mb l2 cache. Avoid the 4600+ [depending on codename] since it only has 2 x 512 L2.


Unless you can't find a 4400+ or 4800+ chip, the other X2's aren't THAT bad...









The main thing is the core name/type of the chip, namely you'd want a Toledo core with the X2 series chips. The X2 4200 I have is a terrific clocker and runs cool, even at higher clocks. It also holds the current highest clock speed in the entire 939 roster here, so yes, these X2's with the 512KB L2 cache can be good chips too.

True, the chips with the 1MB L2 cache are the preferred choice but don't overlook the others if you can't find anything within your price range. The chips aside from the Opterons you should look for would be most any later date Toledo core for an X2 chip or a San Diego core for a single core chip. The 3700+ and 4000+ San Diego core chips are the ones to get if shopping for a single core and use the same suggested steppings as shown. Be aware that both core types use the same exact steppings as the Opterons and are comparable to one another - Any of these chips with these steppings are the ones to look for. (LCBBE - LCB9E - LCBQE).

The best Opty chip I have has actually been my Opteron 175 chip (3388MHz max) with a default 11x multi but the 165's and 170's are cheaper and normally clock very well too. You'd need a board capable of higher bus speeds, esp with the 165 but don't let that hold you back if a good deal on one comes your way. Personally I prefer a higher rated chip myself for the extra tuneability and the fact a higher available multi helps to offset probs with boards that don't like higher bus speeds. Remember you can set these to run like the lower rated chips too if you want.


----------



## N2Gaming

Listen to this ^ from Kryton, spoken like a true professor...


----------



## pioneerisloud

This post is for Blitz. We are comparing my Opteron to his Thuban. Check out my results (Blitz, feel free to steal my upload for your post).


----------



## Blitz6804

For those considering AM3... do it.

This is my Thuban at 1.3 GHz, four cores disabled in the BIOS:










Compare with Pio at 2.8 GHz.


----------



## nategr8ns

Oh wow. Now how about your Thuban at full potential?


----------



## Blitz6804

Now nate, we both know that is a post for another thread. *Wink.*


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Listen to this ^ from Kryton, spoken like a true _crackpot_...










Fixed it for you.


----------



## N2Gaming

Lol


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


@Dimwit:
If you CANNOT find an Opteron (CCBBE / LCBxE (x being Q or 9)), then I would search for an X2 Toledo core. Avoid the Manchester cores like the plague.


thanks.
if they dont say its a Toledo core, how can i tell?

-dimwi-


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dimwit13*


thanks.
if they dont say its a Toledo core, how can i tell?

-dimwi-


Check it out. 
http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/K8/index.html

This will tell you how to determine the core type based on the info on the chip's lid. Some AM2's are also listed but the info itself is good. 
Note that the last three characters of the top/first line of code which is the chip's model will tell you exactly what it is. Info about the core type and L2 cache size can be determined by having this info.

ADA4000DKA5CF for example is a San Diego core.

ADA4200DAA5CD for example is a 512KB L2 cache Toledo core chip.

ADA4400DAA6CD is a 1MB L2 cache Toledo core.

Note the 6 vs the 5 between the X2 chips. 
5 means 512KB and 6 means 1MB L2 cache. The single cores have a 5 designating the L2 as being 1MB in size.


----------



## crunchie

Opty 165 CCB1E
DFI LP UT nF4 Ultra-D
Attachment 163937

Have had it to 3180, but can't find the screenie. 3150Mhz isn't too shabby for 1.472vcore though







.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crunchie*


Opty 165 CCB1E
DFI LP UT nF4 Ultra-D
Attachment 163937

Have had it to 3180, but can't find the screenie. 3150Mhz isn't too shabby for 1.472vcore though







.


Is that STABLE!?







Or is that just a suicide run?

I was able to eek out 3360MHz with mine (in my sig), but I can only stabilize at 3033Mhz, 1.39v







. For some odd reason, none of my boards can get it any higher stable.


----------



## crunchie

Stable enough to run SuperPi, Nuclearus, CPU99 and ProcessorMark3.
Ran stable @ 2850 stock vcore. I had it 24/7 3003Mhz with 1.375 vcore rock solid.
Still have it in a box with the Ultra-D, de-lidded.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *crunchie* 
Stable enough to run SuperPi, Nuclearus, CPU99 and ProcessorMark3.
Ran stable @ 2850 stock vcore. I had it 24/7 3003Mhz with 1.375 vcore rock solid.
Still have it in a box with the Ultra-D, de-lidded.

Oh







. Mine can do all that at 3.2, lol.


----------



## crunchie

It may well have been stable at 3150, but I was only doing those benchmark runs at the time.
I had problems trying to get past 3180 no matter what vcore I used. I was also playing with my 940BE on my DK 790FXA M2RSH at the time and the opty took 2nd place.
Now I have my 1090T, that's the reason the 165 is in a box







.
Might pull it out again one day.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *crunchie* 
It may well have been stable at 3150, but I was only doing those benchmark runs at the time.
I had problems trying to get past 3180 no matter what vcore I used. I was also playing with my 940BE on my DK 790FXA M2RSH at the time and the opty took 2nd place.
Now I have my 1090T, that's the reason the 165 is in a box







.
Might pull it out again one day.

Hey Crunchie!


----------



## crunchie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Hey Crunchie!










Nice OC there







.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crunchie*


Nice OC there







.


Thanks!

I remember what your 165 could do and happy to see it's still kicking.









Guys, Crunchie is kinda like me in regard to getting crazy results. Check it out from a thread I was running earlier in another forum:
http://forums.extremeoverclocking.co...d.php?t=293244

Now you know who I am Crunchie.


----------



## crunchie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Thanks!

I remember what your 165 could do and happy to see it's still kicking.









Guys, Crunchie is kinda like me in regard to getting crazy results. Check it out from a thread I was running earlier in another forum:
http://forums.extremeoverclocking.co...d.php?t=293244

Now you know who I am Crunchie.









Yeah. Your face looks a little different here though


----------



## Cyrious

Well, i would post my CPU-Z of having a 939 processor (i actually have 2 of them, 3200+ and 3500+ both venice cores) and boards, but my MSi nforce 3 (K8N Neo2) ATX board is in storage, and my matx 939 (MS-7093) board has gone on the fritz and refuses to boot from any hard drive. Might be able to fix that one when i dig up a spare bios for that board, since i have at least 3 bios chips flashed for that board (one with the original HP bios, one with a more liberal gateway bios, and the installed one with an official MSI bios).

For a while the 3500+ and the matx board served alongside a 7900GS in my main rig before they were replaced with a more powerful system. I guess the old board is in a pissy mood because of it. That board has always acted up since i got it.


----------



## Freakn

Hi all, just a quick question regarding the Opty. (please dont flame I'm beeing quite serious)

How do they compare to say an Athlon II 245 dasic dual core?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Freakn* 
Hi all, just a quick question regarding the Opty. (please dont flame I'm beeing quite serious)

How do they compare to say an Athlon II 245 dasic dual core?

The Athlon II's are MUCH faster clock for clock. The Opteron's don't stand a chance really.

If you're STUCK with 939 (like I am right now), then the Opteron's aren't all that bad really. I can max out any game except Crysis Warhead and GTA IV (that I have played so far).

But the Athlon II's are definitely faster clock for clock.


----------



## Freakn

Thanks, you've cleared it up for me.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I know this isn't the FS section, but just in case anybody is in need of some 939 parts, I'm getting rid of all my parts. Link here. There's links at the bottom of that page to my other components for sale too.

Again, just figured some of you MIGHT want something I've got. So get it while it's hot.

Also, keep your eyes peeled. My sig rig parts will be following soon, after I get a board and DDR2 or DDR3.


----------



## theCanadian

Wow. My gaming has hit an all time low. 1.5 hours of gaming in the last two weeks. All of it in GRID.


----------



## theCanadian

Wow. Dead much?

After today, I think it will be 0 hours in two weeks. All the rest of the hours on my profile my brother had put on...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


Wow. Dead much?

After today, I think it will be 0 hours in two weeks. All the rest of the hours on my profile my brother had put on...


Get some gaming in then!!!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


Wow. My gaming has hit an all time low. 1.5 hours of gaming in the last two weeks. All of it in GRID.


 That is pretty low I must say. Ever since I bought Borderlands over the July 4th special I haven't been playing much of anything else.... and I think I spent something along the lines of $130 on games









Borderlands is a sweet game.









At any rate, I probably wont be on as much as I have been. Got a job last week as a manager of a detail/light mechanical shop. I would've never guessed that the economy is in a slump and it's hard to find work. I saw the ad, called the place and had a job the next week. Go figure.








Only crappy part is it's like 55+hours/wk.









At any rate, I saw your thread Pio. What's wrong with your car now? Don't hesitate to shoot me a PM if you've got some questions. (even though I won't be posting as much, I'll still check it everyday).
It's a shame you're getting rid of so many 939 components. Did GB ever RMA that board for you? But man talk about lousy service on their part. I can't believe they're making you go through all of this for what? Maybe a $60 retail board. You know their cost on it is probably like $30. And that'd be at the high end since they're the manufacturer. Really crappy on their part. GB has lost more than you as a customer. I'll never buy a board from them seeing the BS they've put you through. And I almost always buy the top-of-the-line boards. At least with my AMD rigs, I have...

PS: GOOD LUCK ON YOUR BAR EXAMS BLITZ!!!!!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


That is pretty low I must say. Ever since I bought Borderlands over the July 4th special I haven't been playing much of anything else.... and I think I spent something along the lines of $130 on games









Borderlands is a sweet game.









At any rate, I probably wont be on as much as I have been. Got a job last week as a manager of a detail/light mechanical shop. I would've never guessed that the economy is in a slump and it's hard to find work. I saw the ad, called the place and had a job the next week. Go figure.








Only crappy part is it's like 55+hours/wk.









At any rate, I saw your thread Pio. What's wrong with your car now? Don't hesitate to shoot me a PM if you've got some questions. (even though I won't be posting as much, I'll still check it everyday).
It's a shame you're getting rid of so many 939 components. Did GB ever RMA that board for you? But man talk about lousy service on their part. I can't believe they're making you go through all of this for what? Maybe a $60 retail board. You know their cost on it is probably like $30. And that'd be at the high end since they're the manufacturer. Really crappy on their part. GB has lost more than you as a customer. I'll never buy a board from them seeing the BS they've put you through. And I almost always buy the top-of-the-line boards. At least with my AMD rigs, I have...

PS: GOOD LUCK ON YOUR BAR EXAMS BLITZ!!!!!










The car:
Timing belt NEEDS done as soon as possible (you know already)
I'm 12k miles OVERDUE for an oil change, that I know of. I have no clue when the oil was last changed







.
Tune up is needed BADLY. I'm starting to miss at idle now.
Alignment so I don't chew through tires.
And I THINK that should get me back on the road SAFELY. If I have any spare cash leftover from my sales, It'll be going straight into the car. Whatever seems like a good thing to spend money on at the time.

And I agree on Gigabyte. I will NEVER buy another Gigabyte ANYTHING ever again. I won't even accept Gigabyte parts as a freebie.


----------



## N2Gaming

Good to hear one of the 939 members has a new job. How is your school panning out for you BO? Are you fin w/school and is that what you ment by the economy?

I use to think Gigabyte was a good company until the whole ordeal w/PIO's run of bad luck. I guess Giga really byte's...


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Good to hear one of the 939 members has a new job. How is your school panning out for you BO? Are you fin w/school and is that what you ment by the economy?

I use to think Gigabyte was a good company until the whole ordeal w/PIO's run of bad luck. I guess Giga really byte's...


 Nope, not done with school yet. Got another...... 5 years to go to where I want to be (including grad school). My unemployment was exhausted so I had to get a job. Figures, it ran out right before they approved this last extension.







Oh well, suppose I needed it anyway. However, it's proving to be somewhat challenging as there are no systems in place and I have to make them as I go along.









I used to think the same of GB, but I have seen numerous threads on here about them burning up, so it's _highly_ unlikely that I'll purchase one. And to think I was debating between the GB UD5P and my MSI GD70. So glad I got the MSI board.


----------



## Kryton

Good to hear you managed to get a job when you really needed it BO. 
I know the hrs bite since my job is also of the 60 hr per week + whatever variety. Was just asked today if I wanted to come in on Sunday too for doing some electrical panel box work and I'm hoping it doesn't become a habit around there to ask me about that. 6 days a week with 10 hr shifts is more than enough for me.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Hey guys, where else would be a good place to put my stuff up for sale at? I have it posted here, but its just not moving fast enough, and I really hate to drop the prices any more, because then I won't get my car fixed







. Any ideas? Thought about Craigslist, but I just don't see 939 parts selling there. And ebay has fee's and whatnot, so I'd likely not get much there either







.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Hey guys, where else would be a good place to put my stuff up for sale at? I have it posted here, but its just not moving fast enough, and I really hate to drop the prices any more, because then I won't get my car fixed







. Any ideas? Thought about Craigslist, but I just don't see 939 parts selling there. And ebay has fee's and whatnot, so I'd likely not get much there either







.


I woudn't use Craigslist unless it's a last resort option. May have to go for your 165 with the probs I ran into with my 165 chip. 
I'll shoot you a PM about that and a few other things.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


I woudn't use Craigslist unless it's a last resort option. May have to go for your 165 with the probs I ran into with my 165 chip. 
I'll shoot you a PM about that and a few other things.


Oh, well that works too, lol. I honestly wasn't trying to advertise it here in the club, lol. I'm just trying my hardest to get the stupid car fixed, lol. I'm relying on these parts selling for close to what they're worth to do it too.


----------



## crunchie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Good to hear you managed to get a job when you really needed it BO. 
I know the hrs bite since my job is also of the 60 hr per week + whatever variety. Was just asked today if I wanted to come in on Sunday too for doing some electrical panel box work and I'm hoping it doesn't become a habit around there to ask me about that. 6 days a week with 10 hr shifts is more than enough for me.


Do you blokes have a given number of hours that you work and then go onto a penalty rate system?
I work a 56 hour week, 10 hours Monday to Friday with 6 hours on a Saturday morning.
First 8 hours on a weekday is 'single' time, next 2 hours is time and a half and every hour after that is double time rates.
Saturday morning first 2 hours is time and a half, with every hour thereafter being double time rates.
Travel time takes me to 12 hours.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Good to hear you managed to get a job when you really needed it BO. 
I know the hrs bite since my job is also of the 60 hr per week + whatever variety. Was just asked today if I wanted to come in on Sunday too for doing some electrical panel box work and I'm hoping it doesn't become a habit around there to ask me about that. 6 days a week with 10 hr shifts is more than enough for me.


 Does your boss look like this?









Yeah I'm not really digging on the hours, however, getting more management experience, especially with a crew, is definitely good on the resume. Makes me more "hireable". Especially in the automotive field. I have so much experience for my age that it really is somewhat hard to come by.

And yeah, my hours are more of a suggestion than a set schedule. I'm supposed to get out at 5:30. But today, for instance, I left at damn near 7.

Sucks though, I might already have to fire a guy.







Was hoping I didn't have to do that.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Hey guys, where else would be a good place to put my stuff up for sale at? I have it posted here, but its just not moving fast enough, and I really hate to drop the prices any more, because then I won't get my car fixed







. Any ideas? Thought about Craigslist, but I just don't see 939 parts selling there. And ebay has fee's and whatnot, so I'd likely not get much there either







.


 I was gonna suggest fleabay...







have you tried any of the other overclocking forums?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crunchie*


Do you blokes have a given number of hours that you work and then go onto a penalty rate system?
I work a 56 hour week, 10 hours Monday to Friday with 6 hours on a Saturday morning.
First 8 hours on a weekday is 'single' time, next 2 hours is time and a half and every hour after that is double time rates.
Saturday morning first 2 hours is time and a half, with every hour thereafter being double time rates.
Travel time takes me to 12 hours.


 The way it works here is, at least in my state, is that the first 40 hours are at your regular pay rate. Anything over that you get time and a half. 
Some places will give double time for working holidays.

PS: HEY JOE!







I C youz down der!

I was just thinking about you the other day.


----------



## BlackHoleSon

Maybe you guys can help me appraise a 939 board? I'm helping a friend out, if posting this is allowed.

link


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Nope, not done with school yet. Got another...... 5 years to go to where I want to be (including grad school). My unemployment was exhausted so I had to get a job. Figures, it ran out right before they approved this last extension.







Oh well, suppose I needed it anyway. However, it's proving to be somewhat challenging as there are no systems in place and I have to make them as I go along.









I used to think the same of GB, but I have seen numerous threads on here about them burning up, so it's _highly_ unlikely that I'll purchase one. And to think I was debating between the GB UD5P and my MSI GD70. So glad I got the MSI board.










Sorry to hear that. It's not easy to go to work and school and be a good parent all at the same time but it's been done by many parents and I'm sure your no exception to the rule and can pull it off. I'm rootin for ya.









Regarding the MSI 790FX-GD70. I just got one and your telling me I'm going to love this board? Did you ever get your Raid all squared away. I just purchased a 6th Samsung F3 1TB sata II drive for my raid array 0+1 and the MSI is the board to do it on if the raid does not give me any problems. I thought you were having some issues w/getting your raid installed. I have read several other reviews that claim the raid is not all that great on the GD70 mobo. I hope this is not true.


----------



## Kryton

Well, I love mine, even though the stuff you could get for it is kinda hard to come by vs some other namebrands.

Can't comment about the RAID issues but for what I do, it's a great piece of hardware.


----------



## pioneerisloud

By the way guys, if things keep going the way they're going here on OCN, I'm not going to be around much longer. This thread is pretty much dead now (just about), and it seems like all there is is little 12 year olds on this forum anymore. All they want to do is argue and flame. I'm about sick of it.

If any of you 939'ers would like to continue chatting with me regularly, you might want to PM me now and get my messenger handles. I have a feeling I won't be keeping my OCN account open much longer.

EDIT:
The hell with it, I'll just post them here.

*AIM, YIM, Xfire, Steam:*
pioneerisloud
*MSN:*
[email protected]


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Sorry to hear that. It's not easy to go to work and school and be a good parent all at the same time but it's been done by many parents and I'm sure your no exception to the rule and can pull it off. I'm rootin for ya.










 Thanks man!









Yeah it's definitely going to be tough. However, if I get this thing crankin right, I'll be able to cut a day (saturday) and yet still make more money.








But we'll see how that goes. There's a lot of stipulations that I have to consider which hinders the amount of revenue I can potentially generate. Which directly reflects my paycheck.

YAY COMMISION!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Regarding the MSI 790FX-GD70. I just got one and your telling me I'm going to love this board? Did you ever get your Raid all squared away. I just purchased a 6th Samsung F3 1TB sata II drive for my raid array 0+1 and the MSI is the board to do it on if the raid does not give me any problems. I thought you were having some issues w/getting your raid installed. I have read several other reviews that claim the raid is not all that great on the GD70 mobo. I hope this is not true.


 Actually, I never had a RAID issue with that board. But the board, IMO, is great. The _only_ gripe I have with it is its lack of RAM dividers. The 939 DFI's spoiled me with all of their available options.

The RAID issues I was having was with this x58 board. You can't install XP SP1 on an X58 chipset, it _has_ to be SP2 or later. That and there is no floppy connector on this one either so I had to slipstream the RAID drivers as well.

If you ever need any help with getting stability or fine tuning, let me know. The 790FX-GD70 has a lot of voltage settings.


----------



## N2Gaming

I'll have to hit you up once I get some ram and fire it up for the first time.


----------



## decimator

Hey, guys, if you don't mind, would you please stop by my appraisal thread and quote a price for my sticks of G.Skill BH-5? The thread is here. Not trying to solicit any potential buyers. Just trying to get some honest appraisals. I'm sure some hardcore 939 users would be able to appreciate these sticks. They've got BH-5 IC's, after all. If I don't think I can get what I feel is a fair price for them, I'll probably just keep them. Thanks.


----------



## Blitz6804

BlackOmega: Since DDR1, there are fewer RAM dividers. My DFI DK 790FX-M2RS was DDR2- 400, 533, 667, 800, and 1066 solely. My current Gigabyte GA-890FXA-UD5 is DDR3- 800, 1066, 1333, and 1600 solely. The days of sub-dividers is long gone I believe.

To all: Thank you all for your wishes of luck (and condolences) on my bar exams. I just rolled in from Massachusetts a few hours ago. I will see how I did in New York (in theory) by Thanksgiving, and in Massachusetts (in theory) by Halloween.


----------



## Tator Tot

Some DDR2 boards carry 11xx & 1200 Dividers

Some DDR3 boards carry 1866 & 2000Mhz dividers.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Some DDR2 boards carry 11xx & 1200 Dividers.

Now this I would like to see.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Some DDR3 boards carry 1866 & 2000Mhz dividers.

Like the MSI 790FX-GD70? I think it has some higher dividers but they are considered overclocked dividers.


----------



## Tator Tot

I can't recall which boards off hand have what; as I always end up on the 667/800 or 1066/1333 Dividers due to using my HT Bus to overclock.

I'm pretty sure the Crosshair III has a 1866 Divider off hand. But it's the only one I can truly think of.


----------



## Cata1yst

Long live the DFI eXpert and the opty 165/175


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Cata1yst* 
Long live the DFI eXpert and the opty 165/175

YEAH BROTHER " said in a Hulk Hulgan voice "


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
BlackOmega: Since DDR1, there are fewer RAM dividers. My DFI DK 790FX-M2RS was DDR2- 400, 533, 667, 800, and 1066 solely. My current Gigabyte GA-890FXA-UD5 is DDR3- 800, 1066, 1333, and 1600 solely. The days of sub-dividers is long gone I believe.

It seems that way. I skipped DDR2 altogether so perhaps I was expecting a little much.
Like I said, that was my only gripe about the board but from the looks of it, it has more than most.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
To all: Thank you all for your wishes of luck (and condolences) on my bar exams. I just rolled in from Massachusetts a few hours ago. I will see how I did in New York (in theory) by Thanksgiving, and in Massachusetts (in theory) by Halloween.

I have faith in you man, I would bet my bottom dollar that you passed all of them.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Like the MSI 790FX-GD70? I think it has some higher dividers but they are considered overclocked dividers.

IIRC, it has a 1600 divider then the rest are stock.







Can't remember







and I still own the board.
Man I need to get that thing back up and running.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Cata1yst* 
Long live the DFI eXpert and the opty 165/175

Hear! Hear!


----------



## theCanadian

Um. Pioneer just announced his exit (actually over a day ago now), and no one has comment? That, uh, says a lot.

And Pio, I share a lot of your sentiments.


----------



## Tator Tot

Somethings are better left silent. Though to be honest I didn't notice it till you said something.

I always end up chatting with Pio on AIM anyways.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I also haven't made my decision for sure yet either. The other night was just a REALLY bad troll night I guess? We'll see how things work out. I definitely won't be leaving until my sales are done, and I know everybody gets their packages safe and sound.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I also haven't made my decision for sure yet either. The other night was just a REALLY bad troll night I guess? We'll see how things work out. I definitely won't be leaving until my sales are done, and I know everybody gets their packages safe and sound.

On a semi related note. It you do leave; it would be after you got your 5th Flame.


----------



## pioneerisloud

make the smiley work


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Some DDR2 boards carry 11xx & 1200 Dividers 
Some DDR3 boards carry 1866 & 2000Mhz dividers.


True, but those are higher dividers, such as when boards carried DDR-500. I am talking fractional dividers like in the DDR days when they had the non-spec DDR-233, DDR-300, DDR-350, et cetera. I have yet to see a board with DDR2-466, DDR2-600, DDR2-700, DDR2-900, or anything other than the dividers I have already mentioned.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


True, but those are higher dividers, such as when boards carried DDR-500. I am talking fractional dividers like in the DDR days when they had the non-spec DDR-233, DDR-300, DDR-350, et cetera. I have yet to see a board with DDR2-466, DDR2-600, DDR2-700, DDR2-900, or anything other than the dividers I have already mentioned.


Oh; that's because JDDEC doesn't allow it anymore. They've put tighter regulations down on RAM and what is and what is not allowed.


----------



## N2Gaming

So basically if we want to have an abundance of overclocking ram dividers we have to mod our bios's our self and I don't see this happening any time soon.

@theCanadian several of us stay in touch w/pio and have talked w/him about his distress over all the flamers here on OCN. Sure do wish the mods would do a little more about the flamers or Trolls we have here on OCN. I can name several Trolls that flat out say that their trollin in their post's. It's really kind of sad and kind of has a way of getting under your skin when OCN members are trolling on you and the Moderators do nothing about it when you point out what they are doing. I guess it helps to know the right mod's to contact in these situations and I really care less as I feel they are all a part of management and if you contact one they should forward your problems to the right party.


----------



## theCanadian

There is an ignore function on this forum. If you know who's doing the trolling, and you can't stand it, ignore them.

And if you break it down, a lot of times what you guys call trolling, is just semantics. Some people like to dabble in the details. It's just how it is.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


There is an ignore function on this forum. If you know who's doing the trolling, and you can't stand it, ignore them.

And if you break it down, a lot of times what you guys call trolling, is just semantics. Some people like to dabble in the details. It's just how it is.


Well when some one calls some one else names like lame then I totally consider that trolling.


----------



## ny_driver

You guys should check out my 1st build log sort of thing and see what I've been up to........pun intended.


----------



## gunner05

so what happened to DFI? I've been out of the picture for a while, i'm just getting back into it (upgrading my DFI ultra-D build - this thing was ROCK SOLID with the over clocking!)

any good deals on socket AM3 DFI mobos ?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gunner05* 
so what happened to DFI? I've been out of the picture for a while, i'm just getting back into it (upgrading my DFI ultra-D build - this thing was ROCK SOLID with the over clocking!)

any good deals on socket AM3 DFI mobos ?

The last DFI AM3 board was the DFI 790FXB-M3H5

But DFI recently announced they're pulling out (mostly) of the consumer Motherboard sector. They didn't update the 790FX to support 6 Core CPU's. And they don't plan on making any more ATX motherboard.

Though DFI does plan to continue it's work in High End mATX & mITX solutions for enthusiasts.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
So basically if we want to have an abundance of overclocking ram dividers we have to mod our bios's our self and I don't see this happening any time soon.

@theCanadian several of us stay in touch w/pio and have talked w/him about his distress over all the flamers here on OCN. Sure do wish the mods would do a little more about the flamers or Trolls we have here on OCN. I can name several Trolls that flat out say that their trollin in their post's. It's really kind of sad and kind of has a way of getting under your skin when OCN members are trolling on you and the Moderators do nothing about it when you point out what they are doing. I guess it helps to know the right mod's to contact in these situations and I really care less as I feel they are all a part of management and if you contact one they should forward your problems to the right party.

The only thing I can comment on about the Trolling/flaming is it's not good for a forum. Tends to give a site a bad rep, esp if it goes unattended or allowed to go so far.
True, larger sites have more of it since it's impossible for staff members to read each and every post of a site this size with as many posts as it gets everyday. You do what you can in that case and nail the one's who have a habit of doing it as you catch them.

However it's ultimately the staff's responsibility to keep a lid on it and if they are not doing it, you'll see it everywhere and done so blatantly. How many sites have you ran across where it looks like certain members do nothing but troll or flame someone? I've seen a few and with members who's only reason for posting is to troll/flame or even go after certain individuals this way for whatever reason, or as it's known, "Stalking".
These are the ones that can ruin what could be a great site.


----------



## Blitz6804

At the risk of getting myself infracted, I am dumbfounded at how many violations I see on some of the staff members sometimes...


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
The only thing I can comment on about the Trolling/flaming is it's not good for a forum. Tends to give a site a bad rep, esp if it goes unattended or allowed to go so far.
True, larger sites have more of it since it's impossible for staff members to read each and every post of a site this size with as many posts as it gets everyday. You do what you can in that case and nail the one's who have a habit of doing it as you catch them.

However it's ultimately the staff's responsibility to keep a lid on it and if they are not doing it, you'll see it everywhere and done so blatantly. How many sites have you ran across where it looks like certain members do nothing but troll or flame someone? I've seen a few and with members who's only reason for posting is to troll/flame or even go after certain individuals this way for whatever reason, or as it's known, "Stalking".
These are the ones that can ruin what could be a great site.

I have been noticing OCN going downhill. I know it's impossible to to monitor it all, but what's happening is ridiculous. People ask a certain question and then all of the sudden some trolls come rolling in and start blabbing about whatever comes to mind and not help in the least bit. Either that or blatantly insult the OP and ridicule them for being uninformed.
Even before I started this new job, I definitely didn't post as much.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
At the risk of getting myself infracted, I am dumbfounded at how many violations I see on some of the staff members sometimes...

It's pretty bad when some mods are trolls themselves. I can understand having some fun in OT, but when the mods join in on the ridicule, that's getting pretty bad.


----------



## crunchie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
At the risk of getting myself infracted, I am dumbfounded at how many violations I see on some of the staff members sometimes...

Nobody should get infracted if all they are doing is speaking the truth.
I got one for a tongue-in-cheek statement and I couldn't believe it.
Maybe it is 'who you know' and not what you know, for why the trolls are not being stomped?


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *crunchie* 
Nobody should get infracted if all they are doing is speaking the truth.
I got one for a tongue-in-cheek statement and I couldn't believe it.
Maybe it is 'who you know' and not what you know, for why the trolls are not being stomped?

Lol. I got banned on lacrossforums.com for using the sarcasm meter. The guy I was replying to had the sarcasm meter explained in his bloody sig.


----------



## pioneerisloud

If anybody would like to take over our Socket 939 social group, please PM me. Maybe new ownership can get it to take off the ground.


----------



## FnkDctr

I have a socket 939 opteron 180 question...

Recently its been hot in my room, so my case has been gettin pretty warm. I have a 120mm at 53cfm intake which is always on 100% an an exhaust fan which is 60cfm and is motherboard controlled.

I have a zalman 9500 and my pc is runnin at stock.. but my processor has been reaching 60c recently, and my graphics cards are warm too. I took them out, and blew some compressed air out of them, my cpu fan, cleaned both case fans.

So my question is, it seems my ambient is to high and causing the problem im guessing? So i was going to buy two 120mm 90cfm fans, and also maybe reseat the cpu. do you think the 60c means the thermal paste is maybe a **** job? it used to stay at around 50-55c max, even overclocked 20% would get my cpu to only 55c-57c. now I seen 63c at stock speeds and my damn pc shuts down at 65c.. NOT GOOD!

any suggestions would be great. Thanks


----------



## ny_driver

I think re-seating sounds like a good place to start.

More fans will help if you can exhaust all the air you bring in.

Heck just open the side up and blow a big fan on it.


----------



## Blitz6804

Personally, I prefer to run positive pressure on my case. That is, more intake fans that exhaust fans. Then if you have a passive vent somewhere on your case (usually on the top) you will be all set. I do not think your thermal paste got damaged, I think it is simply the increase of ambient temperature that is doing you in.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crunchie*


Maybe it is 'who you know' and not what you know, for why the trolls are not being stomped?


^This is exactly what I think it is and this also carries over into every day life situations like in the work force.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FnkDctr*


I have a socket 939 opteron 180 question...

Recently its been hot in my room, so my case has been gettin pretty warm. I have a 120mm at 53cfm intake which is always on 100% an an exhaust fan which is 60cfm and is motherboard controlled.

I have a zalman 9500 and my pc is runnin at stock.. but my processor has been reaching 60c recently, and my graphics cards are warm too. I took them out, and blew some compressed air out of them, my cpu fan, cleaned both case fans.

So my question is, it seems my ambient is to high and causing the problem im guessing? So i was going to buy two 120mm 90cfm fans, and also maybe reseat the cpu. do you think the 60c means the thermal paste is maybe a **** job? it used to stay at around 50-55c max, even overclocked 20% would get my cpu to only 55c-57c. now I seen 63c at stock speeds and my damn pc shuts down at 65c.. NOT GOOD!

any suggestions would be great. Thanks


Honestly, those temperatures are about in line with the Zalman 9500. It's not exactly a good cooler by any means. I know, I had one before my Xiggy. You could TRY reseating it with some BETTER thermal compound, but if you're running stock voltages or higher, you will see at least 60*C load temps more than likely.


----------



## Blitz6804

I personally think it is just his ambient temperature. My Zalman CNPS9500 LED was only a degree or so warmer than my Thermalright SI-128.


----------



## Acoma_Andy

While the Zalman 9500 isn't a bad cooler, it's not really a good cooler either. I'd call it an average cooler.


----------



## crunchie

Not bad on a single core and not bad on a dual core with low ambients, like pionerisloud said.
I own one too, so I'm not talking out of my butt.


----------



## punker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
You can call me a douche bag online all you want







. I really could care less. I've owned the 9500 before, and it couldn't keep either of my dual core 939 rigs under 60*C without low ambients. So whatever.

using a Big typhoon 27C idle 45C on load


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *punker* 
using a Big typhoon 27C idle 45C on load

I personally found better temperatures with a Big Typhoon over my Zalman.


----------



## Kryton

Recently tried a Thermaltake V1 with my Opty 180 OC'ed to around 2.7 and it did pretty good. Temps were around 28-30C idle and load temps remained around 40C or so.

Even tried it with my 555BE and it did better then anything else I have around here for it (Except H2O of course) but this particular chip for some reason just runs warmer than most I've seen around the web. Good thing about it is it unlocks fully with stability so I can live with it. Temps OC'ed (3.8) and unlocked under load went to about 56C at room temp with the side cover off the case. The one thing about the cooler is it's so BIG, you need a case that's nice and wide without anything mounted to the side cover for it to fit within your case. I normally leave the side cover off anyway for better temps so it's not a huge deal for me.


----------



## N2Gaming

The Zalman 9500 is pretty similar to the 9700 w/the exception of fan size. I'm quite pleased w/the performance I get out of my 9700's.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


The Zalman 9500 is pretty similar to the 9700 w/the exception of fan size. I'm quite pleased w/the performance I get out of my 9700's.


I'm sorry, but I'll have to disagree here. Not only is the fan size smaller on the 9500, the entire COOLER is smaller. The copper heatpipes, the copper fins, its all smaller. Hence why the 9700 is an okay cooler, and the 9500 isn't very good at all. Neither are "good" coolers by today's standards, but in their time they were decent at best.


----------



## N2Gaming

OK since I have never had a 9500 I guess I'll leave this subject to the real pro's that have used the 9500's. and just say that I am happy enough w/my 9700's performance.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *punker* 
using a Big typhoon 27C idle 45C on load

Big Typhoons are still very good coolers. I had to lap mine because the base was concave, but I've been very pleased with its performance.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Recently tried a Thermaltake V1 with my Opty 180 OC'ed to around 2.7 and it did pretty good. Temps were around 28-30C idle and load temps remained around 40C or so.

Even tried it with my 555BE and it did better then anything else I have around here for it (Except H2O of course) but this particular chip for some reason just runs warmer than most I've seen around the web. Good thing about it is it unlocks fully with stability so I can live with it. Temps OC'ed (3.8) and unlocked under load went to about 56C at room temp with the side cover off the case. The one thing about the cooler is it's so BIG, you need a case that's nice and wide without anything mounted to the side cover for it to fit within your case. I normally leave the side cover off anyway for better temps so it's not a huge deal for me.

I dunno how you're getting such good results with the V1. I tried 2 of them out and had rather disappointing results. I'd say that it equaled my stock Opteron cooler.


----------



## eternalenergy311

Hey guys been a while, glad to see you are all here still. I thought I would check in after my lapse...


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311* 
Hey guys been a while, glad to see you are all here still. I thought I would check in after my lapse...

Howdy.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Big Typhoons are still very good coolers. I had to lap mine because the base was concave, but I've been very pleased with its performance.

I dunno how you're getting such good results with the V1. I tried 2 of them out and had rather disappointing results. I'd say that it equaled my stock Opteron cooler.

I've seen it mentioned that these were known to be a tad concave/convex on the CPU mating surface. Mine appears to be flat as it should be and that's probrably the biggest reason why.
It also helps I run it with the side cover off of my case since it won't fit anyway with this cooler on it.
Not saying it's any better but this one at least seems to work fine.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


Hey guys been a while, glad to see you are all here still. I thought I would check in after my lapse...












Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


I've seen it mentioned that these were known to be a tad concave/convex on the CPU mating surface. Mine appears to be flat as it should be and that's probrably the biggest reason why. 
It also helps I run it with the side cover off of my case since it won't fit anyway with this cooler on it.
Not saying it's any better but this one at least seems to work fine.


 Yep, the concave surfaces of the V1's is what hampered their performance. Not to mention the contact base of it doesn't cover the whole IHS (for AMD's). Centering it can be somewhat tedious. Not that it even needs to be,but, I just like coolers that cover it completely.

I was very disappointed with the V1's. I really like the look of it. Too bad it's performance was rather lackluster. I might get a refurb, if the price is right, and lap it.








However, the retention mechanism on the V1 for AMD is pretty crappy. That large clip they give you to hold it down really sucks and it's super flimsy.

Are you using the stock retention mechanism?


----------



## redhat_ownage

http://www.overclock.net/appraisals/...dr-bh-5-a.html


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 









Yep, the concave surfaces of the V1's is what hampered their performance. Not to mention the contact base of it doesn't cover the whole IHS (for AMD's). Centering it can be somewhat tedious. Not that it even needs to be,but, I just like coolers that cover it completely.

I was very disappointed with the V1's. I really like the look of it. Too bad it's performance was rather lackluster. I might get a refurb, if the price is right, and lap it.








However, the retention mechanism on the V1 for AMD is pretty crappy. That large clip they give you to hold it down really sucks and it's super flimsy.

Are you using the stock retention mechanism?

I am and have to agree with you about the retention not being too good overall. Biggest thing I have against it is the cooler doesn't cover the entire CPU and the cooler can move around some, making it off center if you're not careful.
Good thing though is it's easier to get in place than the Arctic Freezer Pro cooler I have - I cringed everytime I ever had to remove and install it. The retention is also NOT actually attached to the cooler so be aware of that since this does account for alot of the moving around it does.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well guys, my new build is complete (with the OC in my sig). I've got my 2x F3 1TB drives sitting here awaiting a RAID-0 with short stroking action. Just waiting for my 2TB data drives to be recovered (if possible). In the meantime, I've got 2x 80GB WD drives in RAID0, getting 95MB/s average read. This rig is quite speedy compared to the Opty. I'm VERY pleased.









More pictures of the entire build here (finished).


----------



## nukefission

my 2 previous 939 board both got zapped by lightning








tho i donno if my 2 cpus are dead


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nukefission*


my 2 previous 939 board both got zapped by lightning








tho i donno if my 2 cpus are dead


It's hard to tell honestly. I'd bet the CPU's are fine though.


----------



## Blitz6804

You did not have a surge suppressor either time nukefission?


----------



## nukefission

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


You did not have a surge suppressor either time nukefission?


i did but it was usless








my my 1st mobo was dead
my 2nd one doesnt have a onboard gpu and im lazy to take out my 9800 but il to it some tome









yea my cpus are probably fine but i dont wanna fork out for another 939 mobo
theyre becoming like hens teeth


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nukefission*


i did but it was usless








my my 1st mobo was dead
my 2nd one doesnt have a onboard gpu and im lazy to take out my 9800 but il to it some tome









yea my cpus are probably fine but i dont wanna fork out for another 939 mobo
theyre becoming like hens teeth


I've got a very nicely working A8N32-SLI Deluxe up for sale right now







. $75 shipped to your door







. Board hits 337 HTT stable.

But yeah, I do see your point (salesman stuff aside). 939 Boards are quite hard to find at decent prices these days.


----------



## nukefission

75$








im not that rich








and im getting my propus soon so i doubt il need a 939 board 
thx for offer


----------



## Cyrious

finally figured out what was going on with the microATX MSI board: i had flashed a spare chip with a bios that wasnt quite correct, and apon installing a new OS, the system would freak the hell out over trying to use the "SM Bus" which wasnt on this board. As a result, hardware interrupts would chew up 90% of the processor's runtime. I then decided to switch back to the gateway bios chip and tried that and viola! it worked. This system is now my folding rig, although if i had another 450W power supply, and i figurd out how the hell to bypass the 3.25GB ram limit, i would strip the MSI K8N-Neo2 out of my only (cheap) ATX case, put the micro ATX board in it, and build a seedbox/folder out it so im not running 2 computers.

[removed by The Duke]


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Cyrious* 
although if . . . i figurd out how the hell to bypass the 3.25GB ram limit

Step one: have a 64-bit operating system. Step two: ensure that the "enable memory hole" and "memory hole remap" options are enabled in the BIOS.


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

I have a couple questions with overclocking my new cpu.

What are some things i should set and work from there, as in my Vcore, what about the HT Link, i don't know much about that. I can choose 8 bit and 16 bit HT something, what about my ram timmings?

I have my FSB at 230 atm and my ram is at 4.0x ?So it's set to 800 something but it's 1066 ram so i'm not to sure about overclocking new systems.

The last system i wrenched on was a 3200XP athlon and i played with my GF's 3800x2


----------



## theCanadian

^^^ are you sure you're working on a 939 platform? It sure doesn't sound like it.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


I am and have to agree with you about the retention not being too good overall. Biggest thing I have against it is the cooler doesn't cover the entire CPU and the cooler can move around some, making it off center if you're not careful. 
Good thing though is it's easier to get in place than the Arctic Freezer Pro cooler I have - I cringed everytime I ever had to remove and install it. *The retention is also NOT actually attached to the cooler* so be aware of that since this does account for alot of the moving around it does.


 It's not even that as my Xiggy DK has a very similar mounting solution. However, the Xiggy has 2 lines cut in for the 2 pieces of retention bracket to go in to. That _really_ helps with the brackets rigidity. And holds it _much_ better.

If I do get a refurb V1, I'll see if I can get an extra Big typhoon mounting bracket kit. They did it right on that one. Makes you wonder how they could've dropped the ball so badly on the V1.


----------



## N2Gaming

Wow club camaraderie and participation really has taken a turn for the worse. I'll always be a true 939 fan thru thick and thin and will always be able to show just how much a socket 939 was so far ahead of it's time. I mean who was running XP Pro X64 back in 2005 when AMD systems could do it? I was !!!


----------



## Tator Tot

Considering this club is going on 2 Years Old with the socket itself being 5 years and it has as many posts as large off topic thread?

I'd say this place did well for itself









More so considering 3 Generations of Sockets came out while it was active.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I miss my Opty now







.

Maybe I should reinstall it again







.


----------



## N2Gaming

I could put up a DFI Expert for sale if the price was right


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I could put up a DFI Expert for sale if the price was right










I've still got all my core Opty parts. Board, RAM, and CPU. Nobody seems to want them







.


----------



## ny_driver

I still have 2 Neo2 Platinums....one running with a 3700+ in it and I still have the Opty 170, my OCZ platinums, and an x850 pro for the other one. One of these days after I get a new monitor I'll build it to use with this CRT.

Long live socket 939


----------



## pioneerisloud




----------



## ny_driver

I learned a lot of the little I know about computers and overclocking right here.


----------



## vspec

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=474902

Wish I had some ddr400 so I can try to OC this again.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vspec*


http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=474902

Wish I had some ddr400 so I can try to OC this again.


You ask, pio delivers! DDR400 that hits DDR533 stable!


----------



## vspec

I need 566 stable for the clocks I was going for.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vspec*


I need 566 stable for the clocks I was going for.


Throw them on a divider then







.


----------



## PROBN4LYFE

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Throw them on a divider then







.


 You can do it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## vspec

I like maxing out my components.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vspec*


I like maxing out my components.


Lol, you would be. Put your RAM on a 166 divider. Drop your multiplier down on your CPU, and then bring the HTT up. That will bring the RAM back up to speed, and the CPU back up to speed. 300 x 10 = 3.0GHz, 166 divider makes DDR500.


----------



## vspec

I just realized cpuz is reporting my timings as 3-3-0-3 it was 3-3-3-3.


----------



## Cyrious

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I still have 2 Neo2 Platinums....one running with a 3700+ in it and I still have the Opty 170, my OCZ platinums, and an x850 pro for the other one. One of these days after I get a new monitor I'll build it to use with this CRT.

Long live socket 939










ok, i got a question for you since you have motherboards similar to one of mine. It has a pretty wierd problem in the fact it likes to "eat" ram. I put a full 4GB set on a K8N neo2, and almost always within a few minutes, the board would lock up, and only by shutting down and removing a stick or two would i get a reboot, and the sticks i pulled out would be very warm but not hot to the touch. I tried everything, and it still happened. And yet as soon as i slapped the 4x 1GB set on my MS-7093 board, it fired up just fine, read 3.25GB of ram (bios is limited and i cant get around this ram limit no matter what i do). Any idea what the board is doing to my ram? Or do i gotta toss a board that im trying to make the backbone of a beast of a seedbox?


----------



## crunchie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vspec*


I need 566 stable for the clocks I was going for.


you need some of these Attachment 169058


----------



## ny_driver

I only used 4GB of DDR for a short while, but had no problems. I don't know why it's locking up. Have you have tested each stick individually and also each slot if possible?


----------



## Cyrious

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I only used 4GB of DDR for a short while, but had no problems. I don't know why it's locking up. Have you have tested each stick individually and also each slot if possible?


yes, it does it with every 1GB stick i have (i have 7 functional sticks and 2 more i killed on a suicide run from 266 to 400mhz







) regardless of slot or how many sticks i have in, although the failures always occur in the top slot and work their way down, and every time i pull a "faulty" stick out its warmer than it should be.


----------



## ny_driver

Sounds like the board is faulty to me.


----------



## Cyrious

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Sounds like the board is faulty to me.


































i would try to pin the blame on the power supply being overloaded, but even after disconnecting all the drives, it would still lock up just doing nothing. Oh well, if i can get my hands on a semi-decent PCI raid card and a 450W power supply, along with a few more 5.25 to 3.5 brackets, i would turn my folder into a combo rig (that eats power like its candy and makes my sig rig look even more efficient that it already is)


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vspec*


http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=474902

Wish I had some ddr400 so I can try to OC this again.


I have some great clocking GSkill ram for sale seen here.


----------



## vspec

Gskill is good stuff. my old set of ZX hit 566.


----------



## Blitz6804

Cyrious: Have you checked the RAM voltage not that the board is epically over volting them? What is your ambient temperature? Have you tried placing a 120mm fan over the RAM slots?


----------



## brandy1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


lol, you would be. Put your ram on a 166 divider. Drop your multiplier down on your cpu, and then bring the htt up. That will bring the ram back up to speed, and the cpu back up to speed. 300 x 10 = 3.0ghz, 166 divider makes ddr500.


winks


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *brandy1*


winks










Are you hitting on me? Blitz might get jealous







.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *brandy1* 
winks









Hey nice rig.


----------



## Cyrious

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Cyrious: Have you checked the RAM voltage not that the board is epically over volting them? What is your ambient temperature? Have you tried placing a 120mm fan over the RAM slots?

it happens even when i set the ram to default voltages. Ambient temps are maybe 1-2C tops above room temp as i had the case wide open at the time.
lowered the ram speed to 266mhz, manually set the timings to significantly looser values (try 3-4-4-12 as opposed to 2.5-3-3-8), i tried everything. Nothing worked and i got the same result. And the "dead" sticks? sitting in my folding computer sitting beside my desk, working just fine. Im tempted to try again and increase ram voltage to 2.6V and see if that helps or not.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Cyrious* 
Im tempted to try again and increase ram voltage to 2.6V and see if that helps or not.

What is the max safe voltage for the ram in question?

If you think the ram may be defective you could always try the put it in the freezer over night trick to see if it helps revitalize them any. Do they have a lifetime warranty?


----------



## Cyrious

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
What is the max safe voltage for the ram in question?

If you think the ram may be defective you could always try the put it in the freezer over night trick to see if it helps revitalize them any. Do they have a lifetime warranty?

no idea, and since they lack heatspreaders and arent gaming ram, the max voltage probably aint much higher than 2.7-2.8V. And as stated before, after i pulled them out, let them cool, and installed them in my folder computer, they worked great.
And no they dont have a warranty. I got them secondhand from a friend who didnt overclock them.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Cyrious* 
no idea, and since they lack heatspreaders and arent gaming ram, the max voltage probably aint much higher than 2.7-2.8V. And as stated before, after i pulled them out, let them cool, and installed them in my folder computer, they worked great.
And no they dont have a warranty. I got them secondhand from a friend who didnt overclock them.

Since they don't have heatspreaders on them, can you read what's printed on the chips?
That info would be useful.


----------



## Cyrious

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kryton* 
since they don't have heatspreaders on them, can you read what's printed on the chips?
That info would be useful.

0738 4-2
mt 46v64m8
p -5b d


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Cyrious* 
0738 4-2
mt 46v64m8
p -5b d

This don't mean any thing special to me but then again I don't know a whole lot about Ram chip types when it comes to if they are UCCD etc and so on. I sure wish I did. In fact that is a great question for me to ask since Kryton was asking what kind of chips your ram is labled with.

Question:

Is there a thread here on OCN or elsewhere that has information on mostly every modern RAM chip and what they are capable of doing as far as voltages, timings and speeds.

I have a free cookie for any one who can provide a yes to this question w/links for all of us to learn from.







If not then I think that would be a very lucrative way to earn rep if one was to start a ram thead. I'm sure it'd take a ton of work but would most linkely get mad props from a heck of a lot of OCN members.


----------



## Kryton

I believe there is one but it hasn't been updated lately.

Here ya go...
http://www.overclock.net/amd-memory/...-ic-chips.html

You'll have to scroll down a bit to find the DDR section of it.
Note this isn't exactly what you were looking for but it could help - Maybe.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
I believe there is one but it hasn't been updated lately.

Here ya go...
http://www.overclock.net/amd-memory/...-ic-chips.html

You'll have to scroll down a bit to find the DDR section of it.
Note this isn't exactly what you were looking for but it could help - Maybe.

That is just about as good as it gets as far as I'm concerned







thank you.

Now where is my girlfriends Betty Crockers Easy Bake Oven. I have to make some cookies for you.


----------



## Blitz6804

Just gotta tell me where to send 'em and I will drop some in the mail for you if you want. I just made a half-batch (a shade under 7-dozen) of my famous chocolate chip ones the night before last.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Just gotta tell me where to send 'em and I will drop some in the mail for you if you want. I just made a half-batch (a shade under 7-dozen) of my famous chocolate chip ones the night before last.

Not gonna ask WHY they are famous....


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Just gotta tell me where to send 'em and I will drop some in the mail for you if you want. I just made a half-batch (a shade under 7-dozen) of my famous chocolate chip ones the night before last.

but did you use little suzies Betty Crocker Easy Bake Oven ?









I'd take you up on that offer but have not done any thing to deserve them.


----------



## eternalenergy311

hey guys,

I recently have been having a problem with what i believe may be the memory controller. No matter what slots I use, or what memory I use, I cannot get my machine to work with more than one stick of RAM. This is on my sig rig. I replaced the north bridge fan recently, ran at at stock speeds to test heat for a while, and when I overclocked the memory again, I started having failure. I never over volted the sticks, and never OC'ed any harder than I have been running for months. What is a good way to test with no other Socket 939 board or cpu to work with? Any suggestions?


----------



## pioneerisloud

@eternalenergy311:
Try out memtest. Put in your 2 sticks, run them at bone stock settings (DDR400), run memtest. Overclock a little, run memtest. That should tell you if the memory or the IMC is the problem. If its the motherboard or RAM, then you will have problems at stock. If its the IMC or the RAM (yes, RAM is being mentioned twice here), then you will have problems overclocked. Just my guess.


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


@eternalenergy311:
Try out memtest. Put in your 2 sticks, run them at bone stock settings (DDR400), run memtest. Overclock a little, run memtest. That should tell you if the memory or the IMC is the problem. If its the motherboard or RAM, then you will have problems at stock. If its the IMC or the RAM (yes, RAM is being mentioned twice here), then you will have problems overclocked. Just my guess.


pio, i cannot run memtest on both sticks beacuse it will not post, even bone stock with both in. Not even in single channel mode. It will post with two unmatched sticks but, only in single channel again. Either one of my mushkin sticks checked out OK in memtest running solo. So, i think the sticks are OK individually. I am trying to determine if its the board or the mem controller on the cpu.


----------



## Blitz6804

Either Mushkin checked out in Memtest... this is with the same slot on the motherboard? Have you tried one stick now in all four slots on the motherboard?


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Either Mushkin checked out in Memtest... this is with the same slot on the motherboard? Have you tried one stick now in all four slots on the motherboard?

Yes, any stick runs in any slot, solo.


----------



## Blitz6804

Then it is not the board or the memory. If it were the board, it would be picky of the slot. If it were the memory, it would fail in single slot. It must be the CPU in my opinion.


----------



## N2Gaming

Is it possible the voltage regulation for the ram on the motherboard is on the frits and this is why he is not able to use more than one stick of ram? I'd give the motherboard a good look over for any thing out of the normal. Larger than normal capacitors, burn marks near any VRM's or other IC's on the mobo etc. You should be able to purchased a fairly cheap single core CPU to test the RAM controller theory for like $10-20 bucks.

Good Luck,

N2G

Edit: What happens if you overclock the CPU and ram w/just one stick in the mobo?


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Is it possible the voltage regulation for the ram on the motherboard is on the frits and this is why he is not able to use more than one stick of ram? I'd give the motherboard a good look over for any thing out of the normal. Larger than normal capacitors, burn marks near any VRM's or other IC's on the mobo etc. You should be able to purchased a fairly cheap single core CPU to test the RAM controller theory for like $10-20 bucks.

Good Luck,

N2G

Yeh, I am going to get my hands on a 3800 to test with this weekend, a friend has one.

Edit: What happens if you overclock the CPU and ram w/just one stick in the mobo?

It stilll overclocks well, i am running 2.80ghz dddr466 right now. 3-3-2-8 1t


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311* 
It stilll overclocks well, i am running 2.80ghz dddr466 right now. 3-3-2-8 1t

I was just thinking if you can't overclock the single stick of ram and cpu that it might just be the cpu. Kind of hard to really put your finger on what the problem is w/out other hardware to test the system out with.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I'd have to agree with Blitz here. If either stick works fine, in any slot....it's likely the IMC on the CPU.


----------



## Kryton

Hey, you guys still thinking about doing a 939 club benching contest later for when the weather cools down?

If so, I'm game. 
I do have two chips that can go over 3.4GHz you know so here's some motivation for ya .... Look closely.


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I'd have to agree with Blitz here. If either stick works fine, in any slot....it's likely the IMC on the CPU.


Yeh, I'm starting to believe thats prob it too. Who's got one for sale? LOL
I am actually able to run two sticks again but it's limited in settings. I can not run dual channel and I cannot run a 1T command rate. I am overclocked though, 2.70ghz, DDR 448, and it benchmarked fine and memtest passed 3 times...I guess its time to do some shopping.


----------



## Kryton

You should be able to find a good deal on a good chip, no prob. 
Luckily my X2 4200 has held up to the abuse I've been known to throw at it so far. I've always been careful to keep temps down and never try to push it if I noted a problem there.

Good cooling is a must and a basic rule I've always followed is the cooler the better.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


Yeh, I'm starting to believe thats prob it too. *Who's got one for sale?* LOL
I am actually able to run two sticks again but it's limited in settings. I can not run dual channel and I cannot run a 1T command rate. I am overclocked though, 2.70ghz, DDR 448, and it benchmarked fine and memtest passed 3 times...*I guess its time to do some shopping.*


Ahem, I've still got my Opty 165 up







. Check the link in my sig for details and pricing.


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Ahem, I've still got my Opty 165 up







. Check the link in my sig for details and pricing.


Oops, guess I should have checked back sooner. I just won an opty 146 on ebay for 10.50 USD. If it works, I think I did OK. Maybe I'll even be able to hit that 3.oghz mark this time







If it's junk though, I will definetly keep you in mind Pio.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


Oops, guess I should have checked back sooner. I just won an opty 146 on ebay for 10.50 USD. If it works, I think I did OK. Maybe I'll even be able to hit that 3.oghz mark this time







If it's junk though, I will definetly keep you in mind Pio.


Not bad at all!!! Definitely a good buy at 10 bucks! Keep in mind, that's a single core though







. I'm guessing (if the chip works) it'll hit 2.8-3.0. Just a guess though.


----------



## Cata1yst

Ok im very very VERY annoyed.

previously my system would do 2.7 ghz, but now i cant even get it to do 2.2ghz

I recently cleaned everything. pulled the CPU and reseated the heatsink.

Runnign a DFI eXpert with the latest BIOS, and everytime my settings puke, and even sometimes when i can get it into windows, on the secondary reboot it just hangs...
And yes i do the CMOS reset properly, PSU off, (as its an expert im not suppsoed to pull the battery) cmos set switch on, push power to drain caps, let sit for 10 min +, cmos switch back to normal, power, boot, load optimized and date/time, boot into windows, reboot and enter settings.

should i try a reseat? im 99.99% sure its not my ram as it passed memtest for 2 passes.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cata1yst*


Ok im very very VERY annoyed.

previously my system would do 2.7 ghz, but now i cant even get it to do 2.2ghz

I recently cleaned everything. pulled the CPU and reseated the heatsink.

Runnign a DFI eXpert with the latest BIOS, and everytime my settings puke, and even sometimes when i can get it into windows, on the secondary reboot it just hangs...
And yes i do the CMOS reset properly, PSU off, (as its an expert im not suppsoed to pull the battery) cmos set switch on, push power to drain caps, let sit for 10 min +, cmos switch back to normal, power, boot, load optimized and date/time, boot into windows, reboot and enter settings.

should i try a reseat? im 99.99% sure its not my ram as it passed memtest for 2 passes.


I'd only do a reseat if your temperatures aren't right. Sounds to me like you've got just one small setting wrong most likely. If everything was fine before, you've most likely just got a setting wrong.


----------



## Cata1yst

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I'd only do a reseat if your temperatures aren't right. Sounds to me like you've got just one small setting wrong most likely. If everything was fine before, you've most likely just got a setting wrong.


grrr... anyone have a link to a guide for this mobo? i cant find anything for it... i want to set DRAM settings manually.

The annoying thing is everythings the same. My Hypertransport is the same freq, the mult is the same, i left all my ram settings at stock. same voltages, same FSB clock... but it refuses to post with any non stock settings.


----------



## Blitz6804

Cata1yst: Have you by chance tried changing the CMOS battery?


----------



## Cata1yst

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Cata1yst: Have you by chance tried changing the CMOS battery?


Voltages are ok for the battery.

Im not supposed to remove that battery, supposedly it could damage my board.... but if push comes to shove im going to have to.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Cata1yst* 
Voltages are ok for the battery.

Im not supposed to remove that battery, supposedly it could damage my board.... but if push comes to shove im going to have to.

What? No, all it should do is reset your CMOS settings (if the PC doesn't have AC power).


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, it is a DFI, one of the ones where you have to do the special reboot procedure involving the removal of DIMMs and whatnot.


----------



## Cata1yst

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Well, it is a DFI, one of the ones where you have to do the special reboot procedure involving the removal of DIMMs and whatnot.

You forgot the part where i have to stand on one leg with a glass of chocolate milk and sing the bikini bottom anthem.....










Looking about the DFI forums right now. Prolly gonna have to do the full CMOS reset. Gonna try 100% manual settings first.

Would overtightening my HSF be a potiential issue? got a thermaltake big typhoon on it. the HS can slide about if i really move it so i dont think ive got overly too much pressure on it.

Also anyone got the manual for this board? i cant find a PDF ANYWHERE.


----------



## CDub07

Wish i could have posted my stats for my San Diego Athlon 64 3700+. It was my first cpu/computer upgrade that i had ever done. You will be missed my friend. I sold it to a friend in computer i slapped together.


----------



## Blitz6804

I have never heard of over tightening a heat sink Cata1yst. Under, yes, over, never.


----------



## N2Gaming

I guess if you ever tighten a cpu heat sink to the point that the mobo starts making snapping and cracking noises then that would probably be to tight IMO.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


I have never heard of over tightening a heat sink Cata1yst. Under, yes, over, never.


Ahem, Socket A. It was common for die's to be crushed or damaged.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


I have never heard of over tightening a heat sink Cata1yst. Under, yes, over, never.


Socket A CPU's have an exposed Die and thus are more susceptible to that. But the 754, 939, AM# clip mount doesn't allow for more than a certain amount of pressure on the socket. And the IHS protects the CPU Die.

Thermalright actually was brought up recently because they use 70Lbs pressure vault on the VenX and modern coolers which is over Intel's LGA spec of 60Lbs


----------



## ny_driver

Hey fellas what going on? I haven't posted much here since I moved on to Phenom II, but I remember where it all started.










SO this is what I have been devoting my free time to lately

I hope you enjoy my insanity.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


Ahem, Socket A. It was common for die's to be crushed or damaged.


I meant with a 939 processor, as Tator just said. I figured that was obvious, I guess not.


----------



## Kryton

Yes, Socket A does have this problem and many a CPU was wrecked this way.

Normally done by folks not paying attention, not knowing what they were doing or just having a brain-fart at the time. I really can't place any specific coolers that apply too much pressure when installed but I suppose there could be a few out there. My Volcano 11 coolers can be rather tight once installed but they've always worked out well and I've had these for sometime now.

I've been fortunate I haven't done that yet to any of my A's.


----------



## Cata1yst

Hmmm... well tomorrows my last day of class for the week. Ill experement with it then. Looking for the speaker jumper on my board so that i can do a full clear.


----------



## evilpandy

I have a nf4 lanpart ultra-d laying around (3200+ venice w/ an xp90 on it) and was wondering what I should do with it... 

I think I have an OC profile that has it at 2.6ghz 24hr prime stable, but was wondering if its worth buying some decent ram and seeing how far I can take it. Seems like such a waste that I ran it for all those years with corsair value


----------



## 420Assassin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *evilpandy* 
I have a nf4 lanpart ultra-d laying around (3200+ venice w/ an xp90 on it) and was wondering what I should do with it... 

I think I have an OC profile that has it at 2.6ghz 24hr prime stable, but was wondering if its worth buying some decent ram and seeing how far I can take it. Seems like such a waste that I ran it for all those years with corsair value









keep it dfi no longer making lanparty boards so there all gonna be collectors i think.


----------



## N2Gaming

And here I was thinking about selling all my DFI Lanparty mobo's.

For all the guys I chit chat with in Steam, Xfire etc here is a FYI.

I hosed MY OS







trying for a 4.2GHz CPU-Z Validation. Oh well I guess it was time for a clean install any way since I'm going to be snapping those new MSI Cyclone GTX 460 1GB cards in a few days. I just hate trying to redo every thing. It takes me about a week to get it all dialed in again. redoing my drivers, email, games, save points etc etc. What a real PITA this is going to be. No worries it's prolly for the best any way. I get her all dialed in and and running tip top again.


----------



## 420Assassin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


And here I was thinking about selling all my DFI Lanparty mobo's.

For all the guys I chit chat with in Steam, Xfire etc here is a FYI.

I hosed MY OS







trying for a 4.2GHz CPU-Z Validation. Oh well I guess it was time for a clean install any way since I'm going to be snapping those new MSI Cyclone GTX 460 1GB cards in a few days. I just hate trying to redo every thing. It takes me about a week to get it all dialed in again. redoing my drivers, email, games, save points etc etc. What a real PITA this is going to be. No worries it's prolly for the best any way. I get her all dialed in and and running tip top again.










if your gonna sell hit me up depending on model i will collect them.. hehe,..

ya i hate doin fresh installs.. takes 4 ever installing games, drivers, windows updates, and ya just everything you gotta do


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *420Assassin* 
if your gonna sell hit me up depending on model i will collect them.. hehe,..

ya i hate doin fresh installs.. takes 4 ever installing games, drivers, windows updates, and ya just everything you gotta do

Well I have a NF4 SLI DR not the UT version and then I have the Expert, I have a 2nd Expert that I need to try a repair on "it has damaged caps" and I have a Venus that needs some repairs "don't ask it's in need of a lot of TLC" I got it really cheap and it was abused big time.


----------



## Fa11ou7

hey guys i haven't posted in a while but I managed to screw something up so I need help









I built a new computer with an athlon II x3 (that unlocked to a Phenom II x4!!) and decided to set my old 939 up for my wife. She was using my gaming computer from before my 939, which is a p4, so a pretty decent upgrade. The first stupid thing I did was to use my two SATA drives in a raid 0 setup. I quickly found out that windows7 and the old Nforce 4 systems don't get along too well. Fortunately I found a really awesome guy from Germany that doctored up some drivers to make things work. Here is his forum with the drivers and the instructions if anyone ever needs them;
http://www.nforcershq.com/forum/win7...de-t72447.html
So after like 20 hours I got my 939 with windows 7 32 bit running like a champ. Serious the boot time with raid 0 is like 40 secs. My new SSD win7 64 bit system takes like 15-20 secs.

Now that I've done all the drivers and such the sound doesn't work. I have a radeon 4670 in there with an HDMI so windows loaded drivers to run hi def sound through the HDMI but even when I disable it no sound comes out of the green audio plug on the mobo. I've tried the xp drivers that came with the mobo, I've tried the newest drivers that win7 can find. I've uninstalled all the audio drivers under device manager and still no sound. I would really like to get this figured out so my wife can have a newer system. Any ideas?


----------



## Blitz6804

Give the Vista drivers a shot. Vista and Windows 7 are often inter-compatible with their drivers.


----------



## Fa11ou7

I just checked the drivers on their website and they don't have any past xp. I had windows 7 installed on it before I made it a raid 0 system and had no problems whatsoever. Even windows says that the sound is working fine and when I go into sound properties it shows the green bar for the volume moving up and down with any music playing.

I only changed a few things on the system. I pulled a Radeon 5770 and put it into my new system and put the 4670 that used to be in it back. I pulled the hard drives and Set up two SATA drives in raid 0 array with special Nforce 4 drivers, and thats pretty much it.


----------



## Blitz6804

Did you double-check which audio device is the default?


----------



## 420Assassin

windows 7 has great driver support make sure your connected to internet. goto device manager and uninstall the driver.

Let windows search for driver even if you know its gonna fail and not find it. Then after you click ok at fail screen another window should pop up with 3 options like download and save driver, download and install driver from manufactors site, somethin long those lines


----------



## Fa11ou7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Did you double-check which audio device is the default?

Ya I've tried changing the default device, disabling, and uninstalling, still no go.

@420Assassin
I have tried the driver disk and I have tried Win7 drivers nothing seems to be working.

I guess I should try using the HDMI on the 4670 and see if the audio is working through that. The on-board audio had digital infrared audio out I wonder if that is doing something weird....


----------



## 420Assassin

no idea after that.. the backup rig im using untill my dfi board comes audio wouldnt work for win7 or vista kept saying it wasnt connected. but yet on win xp works fine. but its junk board only a temporary system to run till the 939 beast is back up


----------



## pioneerisloud

Have you downloaded the latest drivers off Realtek's website? That's how I had to do it on my DFI 939 board.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Have you downloaded the latest drivers off Realtek's website? That's how I had to do it on my DFI 939 board.

This might just work. I had to do this earlier today for my Foxconn Destroyer. Realtek Link


----------



## Fa11ou7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Have you downloaded the latest drivers off Realtek's website? That's how I had to do it on my DFI 939 board.

I'm downloading them now but the version from Realtek matches the one's that Win7 installed

*Update*
Well it didn't work, o well back to the drawing board.


----------



## eternalenergy311

got the opty 146 installed, i can run dual channel again YEH! only up to 2.7 ghz, @1.42v ddr 448.....but this is also where i started so







well see what she does.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


got the opty 146 installed, i can run dual channel again YEH! only up to 2.7 ghz, @1.42v ddr 448.....but this is also where i started so







well see what she does.


I look forward to it







. You've got PLENTY of headroom on voltages, and RAM dividers.


----------



## N2Gaming

Get'r Done eternalenergy311... Lets see some Validations or screen shots


----------



## pioneerisloud

That's over 12 hours P95 stable, using Blended and all 8GB of RAM







.


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I look forward to it







. You've got PLENTY of headroom on voltages, and RAM dividers.

How much headroom are we talking? I haven't even done the research on the chip yet, its still 65 c max temp right, maybe 1.50 max volts? Right now its prime stable 32 C idle, 47-48 loaded.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


How much headroom are we talking? I haven't even done the research on the chip yet, its still 65 c max temp right, maybe 1.50 max volts? Right now its prime stable 32 C idle, 47-48 loaded.


If you can keep it cool, 1.60v won't kill that chip. Usually it seems that 55*C and less is the sweet spot. However it is technically "safe" up to 65*C in the very least (some chips are 65, some are 72).


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
If you can keep it cool, 1.60v won't kill that chip. Usually it seems that 55*C and less is the sweet spot. However it is technically "safe" up to 65*C in the very least (some chips are 65, some are 72).

so far i can still only get 2.7 to run prime stable (1.44v) , 2.75 failed prime after 2 hours( tried 1.46v, and 1.48v). it was only running 51 C at 1.48 but it was never stable. I have tried the lowest divider and given enough memory voltage, and backed off the timings, so im not sure whats up yet. maybe the chip is maxed? Either way im happy enough for paying 10.50 usd, at least i have a backup chip now. Ill mess with it some more later this week... i guess what i havent tried was a lower multi and higher HTT, although i have not had much luck with that on my 3800x2.


----------



## BlackOmega

Hey guys







Just stoppin in to say wazap.


----------



## Enfluenza

help me!
i have a opty 170 in a OEM ASUS board. how can i OC it, and how far could a 170 go?
i heard they can reach 2.8-3ghz


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Enfluenza* 
help me!
i have a opty 170 in a OEM ASUS board. how can i OC it, and how far could a 170 go?
i heard they can reach 2.8-3ghz









If its an OEM board, you're pretty much stuck at 2.0GHz. But yes, the Opteron 165-185's can reach anywhere from 2.7-3.0+GHz. Just depends on your luck of the draw. My 165 could hit 3.1 stable.


----------



## BlackOmega

Yep Enfluenza, you're screwed.

See if you can pick up an enthusiast board for cheap. Or at least one that has a customizable BIOS.

OT: Hey Pio, when'd you get the M2RS?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Yep Enfluenza, you're screwed.

See if you can pick up an enthusiast board for cheap. Or at least one that has a customizable BIOS.

OT: Hey Pio, when'd you get the M2RS?

I've had this setup for about a month now (got it all on the 13th of last month). Finally broke her in stable not even a week ago, lol.


----------



## beers

Ah 939.
Opteron 165 @ 2.8 Ghz was *****in' for a long time.

Demoted it to file server duty, seems fine with VMware and software RAID 5.
Only qualm with 939 is that more than 2 sticks drops the RAM speed.

/shrug. Not really a big deal when it's mainly just sitting there I guess.

I drunkenly fell on my Epox 9npa+ SLi and it doesn't post anymore, though


----------



## Kryton

Sup guys?

Got my A8N32 setup for some gaming later in the season with the Opty 180 and doing good. Only sad part is one of my 8600 GTS video cards is dead but I'll cope - Need to get some better ones anyway.

Enfluenza, if you browse, you may find a decent board for less than you'd think. I've seen alot of DFI's being posted up lately.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I've had this setup for about a month now (got it all on the 13th of last month). Finally broke her in stable not even a week ago, lol.

Nice.







how are you diggin the new rig?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *beers* 
Ah 939.
Opteron 165 @ 2.8 Ghz was ******in*' for a long time.











Quote:


Originally Posted by *beers* 
Demoted it to file server duty, seems fine with VMware and software RAID 5.
Only qualm with 939 is that more than 2 sticks drops the RAM speed.

/shrug. Not really a big deal when it's mainly just sitting there I guess.

*I drunkenly fell on my Epox 9npa+ SLi and it doesn't post anymore,* though

















And yet another reason I don't drink any more.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Sup guys?

Got my A8N32 setup for some gaming later in the season with the Opty 180 and doing good. Only sad part is one of my 8600 GTS video cards is dead but I'll cope - Need to get some better ones anyway.

Wazaaaaap!
I have a couple 6800's you could SLI. I used them in my original opty 165 build and an A8N32.


----------



## N2Gaming

Sup guys. Been hanging loose playing Dirt 2 lately... Hey BO long time no see.


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey guys just in case any one wants it GoGamer is having another 48hr madness sale and Dirt 2 is on the list comes to just over $10.00 shipped for hard copy of the game.
http://www.gogamer.com/Dirt-2--I--fo...VVviewprod.htm


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Sup guys. Been hanging loose playing Dirt 2 lately... Hey BO long time no see.

Hey man.









Been working, although, I'm in the market for a new job. I'm no longer with the company.
It was too many hours anyway, I barely even got to see my kids and they've become very unruly. And with three kids, my wife couldn't take it anymore. Not to mention I'm also going to school full time. It just wasn't happening.

Aside from that, that management position sucked big time. It was in a small, family owned business. It was micro-management hell.

Like check this, I made some stuff in word, like notes to myself kind of thing, when I was through with them, I put them in the recycle bin and emptied it. Turns out their dumbass IT guy stored various important files in there, like .dll's for some of their apps.
Anyway, they went to do something on the computers, and found that mine didn't have the files they were looking for. And it turned into a big snafu. We had to have a meeting about it, and in that meeting I was told that if I wanted to do anything, anything at all on the computers, I had to ask permission. I was like


----------



## Kryton

BO, I was wanting to get some ATI's to use with my AM3 and crossfire them. I've already spent my allowance for this paycheck earlier (What the wife lets me have







) so I'm tapped out at the moment.

Also working with a freebie I was gifted with yesteday, an 3.0 GHz Intel Pentium D based setup that seems it could be fixed but not wanting to load Windows right now. May have a BIOS bug/virus in it since it seems to keep "Losing" the HDD during setup. I may have a way to BS it into working anyway and I'm working on that for now.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
BO, I was wanting to get some ATI's to use with my AM3 and crossfire them. I've already spent my allowance for this paycheck earlier (What the wife lets me have







) so I'm tapped out at the moment.

Also working with a freebie I was gifted with yesteday, an 3.0 GHz Intel Pentium D based setup that seems it could be fixed but not wanting to load Windows right now. May have a BIOS bug/virus in it since it seems to keep "Losing" the HDD during setup. I may have a way to BS it into working anyway and I'm working on that for now.

Well if you want em let me know. I keep them around as "known good" hardware for testing purposes. They actually do fairly well in steam (HL) games.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Well if you want em let me know. I keep them around as "known good" hardware for testing purposes. They actually do fairly well in steam (HL) games.

Will do and may try to get them soon since I could use the extra cards anyway.


----------



## pioneerisloud

BO:
I'm actually enjoying this system a LOT. Very VERY quick with the RAID0 short stroked at 100GB. The chip is enabling absolutely maxed out settings on any game (Crysis and GTA IV included), I could be happier







. And I'm actually using all 8GB of RAM







. Just a few days ago I saw 68% usage!!! Now I know that's not all 8, but that's more than 4







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I barely even got to see my kids and they've become very unruly. And with three kids, my wife couldn't take it anymore.

We had to have a meeting about it, and in that meeting I was told that if I wanted to do anything, anything at all on the computers, I had to ask permission. I was like
















So the wife could not take the kids bouncing off the walls A? LOL

Oh yeah that companys IT guys sounds like a regular Einstein







really who keeps important files in the trash...







Hope all is good with you and yours.









Pio you sure are a happy camper w/the new rig.







I'll have to install GTA4 here again soon just to see how it looks w/all maxed settings. I think my rig should be able to pull it off now.









Hey Kryton did you ever find a good NB or other H2O block for your GD70 that you were looking for?

has any one heard from TMJ or Thlink3rbell?


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 

Hey Kryton did you ever find a good NB or other H2O block for your GD70 that you were looking for?

Only thing I need to find or get would be a MOSFET block, I have everything else already.
I believe though if I really need to, I could make a bracket to mount the ones I've seen around.


----------



## dimwit13

hey guys, i have a quick question.
i am in the process of building/upgrading my 939 system (3200 single core in it now) and want to know if this is a good cpu and price.
AMD Athlon 64 X2 4200+ Dual Core Socket 939 w/Heat Sink
he also has a few other 4200+ on his site-different numbers and prices
i have 1.5 gigs ddr 400 now, but i plan on upgrading to 2 or 4 gigs.
it has a 3870 in it now and plan on putting in a 4890 (once i get a gtx 460 to replace it)

if anybody knows of a good 939 cpu for a good price, please let me know.

thanks

-dimwit-

i was told to stay away from the manchester core!?!?!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dimwit13* 
hey guys, i have a quick question.
i am in the process of building/upgrading my 939 system (3200 single core in it now) and want to know if this is a good cpu and price.
AMD Athlon 64 X2 4200+ Dual Core Socket 939 w/Heat Sink
he also has a few other 4200+ on his site-different numbers and prices
i have 1.5 gigs ddr 400 now, but i plan on upgrading to 2 or 4 gigs.
it has a 3870 in it now and plan on putting in a 4890 (once i get a gtx 460 to replace it)

if anybody knows of a good 939 cpu for a good price, please let me know.

thanks

-dimwit-

i was told to stay away from the manchester core!?!?!

That is correct. Manchester cores are usually no good. You want either a Toledo or an Opteron. I just happen to have an Opteron 165 that hits 3.1 stable, and 4GB of Corsair XMS DDR400 (each 2GB kit hits 533 stable) up for sale right now still. Right around the pricing of that 4200+







. Check the link in my sig.

Although that isn't a bad price as long as its a Toledo core on that 4200+.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
Like check this, I made some stuff in word, like notes to myself kind of thing, when I was through with them, I put them in the recycle bin and emptied it. Turns out their dumbass IT guy stored various important files in there, like .dll's for some of their apps.

This is why most of the time, when working on soemone's rig, I circumvent the recycle bin altogether. (Shift-delete permanently deletes a file rather than putting it in the recycle bin.)

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dimwit13* 
i was told to stay away from the manchester core!?!?!

A dual core is better than a single core for sure. The problem with Manchesters, however, is that they tend to only clock to 2.6 GHz or so. Toledos and Denmarks tend to get closer to 3.0 GHz.


----------



## Enfluenza

ok








are there any *cheap* mATX S939 mobos with 1 PCIe or 2?

my opty is in a MATX case


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Enfluenza* 
ok








are there any *cheap* mATX S939 mobos with 1 PCIe or 2?

my opty is in a MATX case









There are in the UK. Search around for the ASRock 780g Socket 939 board







. Supposedly its a pretty good board with a current chipset for Socket 939. It's the ONLY one of its kind. Other than that board, I honestly don't know of any good 939 mATX boards, somebody else might though.


----------



## Fusion Racing

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Enfluenza* 
ok








are there any *cheap* mATX S939 mobos with 1 PCIe or 2?

my opty is in a MATX case









Happened to find this:

 ASRock 785G 939

Not sure how available it is in the US though.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Fusion Racing* 
Happened to find this:

ASRock 785G 939

Not sure how available it is in the US though.

Oh it was a 785G







. That's the board I was looking for. Supposedly that is a GREAT board for the money, however they do NOT exist in the US unless you specially get them from the UK.


----------



## Fusion Racing

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Oh it was a 785G







. That's the board I was looking for. Supposedly that is a GREAT board for the money, however they do NOT exist in the US unless you specially get them from the UK.

That's a surprise, its usually the other way around with the UK not being able to get stuff









Nice to see 939 still getting some attention, even if it is an ASRock. Shame DFI never made a Ultra D with a few slots trimmed off the bottom, although if they had it would be worth about $5000.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Fusion Racing* 
That's a surprise, its usually the other way around with the UK not being able to get stuff









Nice to see 939 still getting some attention, even if it is an ASRock. Shame DFI never made a Ultra D with a few slots trimmed off the bottom, although if they had it would be worth about $5000.

I'm fairly certain Biostar made a few mATX 939 boards with the NF4 chipset. But you'll have a hard time finding them today. Today you're either going to find a good ATX 939 board, or that ASRock. Or a super cheap ATX board. 939 equipment is so hard to find if you're looking for a niche product, hence why the prices are so darned high.


----------



## Kryton

I believe one day the LP jr for AM3 could be a collector's item before too long - How many mATX boards you know of that has it's kind of setup?
I'd like to get one just for kicks if I could.

I'm glad to have my NF4X Infinity for Socket 754.
You don't see these growing on trees either.

In other tidbits, I got the Pentium D setup to work and it's doing OK. The MB itself is not an OC'ers board by any means but seems OK and it has a dual core (Pentium D 930) at least.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
BO:
I'm actually enjoying this system a LOT. Very VERY quick with the RAID0 short stroked at 100GB. The chip is enabling absolutely maxed out settings on any game (Crysis and GTA IV included), I could be happier







. And I'm actually using all 8GB of RAM







. Just a few days ago I saw 68% usage!!! Now I know that's not all 8, but that's more than 4







.

Nice. With my rigs, I really only noticed a difference in games. No stutter, skipping and awesome frame rates. I believe I get ~78% RAM usage in Crysis, but then again, I am only running 3GB. When the first service pack is released for Win7 I might give it another go. I have it sitting on my desk right now, still unopened.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
So the wife could not take the kids bouncing off the walls A? LOL

Trust me, the kids are more than a handful. There's plenty of times where they drive me to my wits end. And that's when I _need_ a break from them.
So I'm not so surprised that she can only take it for so long. Even then, she's a lot more resilient to their constant torment.
And then on top of taking care of them, we still have to do the house work.







Man there's just not enough hours in the day, I swear.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Oh yeah that companys IT guys sounds like a regular Einstein







really who keeps important files in the trash...







Hope all is good with you and yours.









So far so good. Although, been under the weather since last week. My little germ factories manage to pick up every little bug that comes around. Most of the time I don't get sick, but this one got me.









As for the IT guy, all that I could say was








What he did would be like storing your food in a trash can rather than the fridge.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
has any one heard from TMJ or Thlink3rbell?

Not in a long, long time. I saw Joe stop in not too long ago but he didn't post.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
This is why most of the time, when working on soemone's rig, I circumvent the recycle bin altogether. (Shift-delete permanently deletes a file rather than putting it in the recycle bin.)

Thanks for the shift+del tip.









But honestly, what kind of person puts important files in the trash, and then doesn't even put an admin lock on the system?

I've worked at A LOT of places where I work on a computer all day long, and guess what? This is the _only_ time I have ever seen someone do something as stupid as that. The trash is for trash, not storage.

At any rate, I suppose I'll check to see if there's any files in there before I empty it on a company computer.
If there is, I'll take them out and make a folder called, "Files that the dumbass IT guy stored in the trash".


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
I suppose I'll check to see if there's any files in there before I empty it on a company computer.
If there is, I'll take them out and make a folder called, "Files that the dumbass IT guy stored in the trash".


----------



## evilpandy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
That is correct. Manchester cores are usually no good. You want either a Toledo or an Opteron. I just happen to have an Opteron 165 that hits 3.1 stable, and 4GB of Corsair XMS DDR400 (each 2GB kit hits 533 stable) up for sale right now still. Right around the pricing of that 4200+ 







. Check the link in my sig.

Although that isn't a bad price as long as its a Toledo core on that 4200+.

Was thinking about buying this opteron and a set of ram to put in my dfi ultra-d to tinker around with and then give to my friend. He mostly uses this for web and heroes of newerth and maybe sc2. Would it be worth the money to upgrade him from an athlon64(dunno which socket)?

I was thinking about doing sli mod and try to find 6600gt to match with the one he currently has. Im kinda just curious about this and would this even be worth trying to find one of these cards?

And would an xp90 be enough to get that to 3.0? ;o so many questions but i just wanna mess around with a computer. Debating on doing that or getting a high end air cooler to see how high i can get my unlocked rana.


----------



## theCanadian

Been playing some Grid lately... what's up with you guys?


----------



## Cata1yst

So i performed the full cmos clear for over 24hours and it seems to have stabilized my CMOS.
Using only 2 sticks of memory right now, tested it at 3-3-3-8. 200mhz w/ memtest. 2 runs

when i try these settings something becomes unstable.
FSB - 400
LDT/FSB- 2.5
Proc multi - 6
Memory is at the tested 200mhz using the 1/2 divider. Same timing settings

Right now however i got it to be stable at
FSB - 289
LDT/FSB- 3x
FSB/CPU - 9x
Memory at 144.5 Testing stability with these settings right now with small FFT'
EDIT: if i bump up the divider to 7/10 = 202mhz. it refuses to boot into windows.

But whats interesting is that speedfan is reporting that the vcore for core 2 is SIGNIFICANTLY less than core 1.
Vcore1: 1.42
Vcore2: 1.31

Board is DFI's eXpert. Proc is opty 165

PS. I got a denmark. dont they suck?


----------



## N2Gaming

That youtube video lools like a total Hack w/cheats if you ask me TheCanadian


----------



## theCanadian

It's not. I used a flashback, then in the location of the original crash, I did a double barrel roll. It was a glitch.


----------



## Enfluenza

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Fusion Racing* 
Happened to find this:

ASRock 785G 939

Not sure how available it is in the US though.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
There are in the UK. Search around for the ASRock 780g Socket 939 board







. Supposedly its a pretty good board with a current chipset for Socket 939. It's the ONLY one of its kind. Other than that board, I honestly don't know of any good 939 mATX boards, somebody else might though.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I'm fairly certain Biostar made a few mATX 939 boards with the NF4 chipset. But you'll have a hard time finding them today. Today you're either going to find a good ATX 939 board, or that ASRock. Or a super cheap ATX board. 939 equipment is so hard to find if you're looking for a niche product, hence why the prices are so darned high.

aw well that sucks








guess i'll look on ebay.


----------



## theCanadian

There's always the board in my sig... I've never seen another like it. Temperamental though.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Cata1yst* 
So i performed the full cmos clear for over 24hours and it seems to have stabilized my CMOS.
Using only 2 sticks of memory right now, tested it at 3-3-3-8. 200mhz w/ memtest. 2 runs

when i try these settings something becomes unstable.
FSB - 400
LDT/FSB- 2.5
Proc multi - 6
Memory is at the tested 200mhz using the 1/2 divider. Same timing settings

Right now however i got it to be stable at
FSB - 289
LDT/FSB- 3x
FSB/CPU - 9x
Memory at 144.5 Testing stability with these settings right now with small FFT'
EDIT: if i bump up the divider to 7/10 = 202mhz. it refuses to boot into windows.

But whats interesting is that speedfan is reporting that the vcore for core 2 is SIGNIFICANTLY less than core 1.
Vcore1: 1.42
Vcore2: 1.31

Board is DFI's eXpert. Proc is opty 165

PS. I got a denmark. dont they suck?

1) 400FSB, that's likely your problem right there. Not many boards can handle that high of a FSB. 300-350 would likely be doable, but 400 is usually VERY tough.
2) On your second set of settings, some dividers might just not work, even though your memory is stable at said speed. Try lowering your multiplier down, bringing your FSB up, which will in turn bring your RAM back up.
3) Don't use Speedfan. 99% of the time its never accurate. There should only be one vcore reading.


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


1) 
3) Don't use Speedfan. 99% of the time its never accurate. There should only be one vcore reading.


What would you use instead?


----------



## evilpandy

pioneer, did you ever run all 4 sticks of your corsair in the dfi ultra-d?

I was thinking about picking up your s939 stuff to play around with my dfi board and then giving it to a buddy as an upgrade. (lol he's on a single core A64)

Will a thermalright xp-90 be able to take that opteron to 3.0?


----------



## Fa11ou7

I had to give up on upgrading my old s939 system since parts are starting to get so expensive and the MB i was using was only pci-e 1.0. 4gb of ddr3 is less expensive than 4gb of ddr1, altho if I had extra money I would buy the sticks from Pioneerisloud to stick in my system. I just can't justify keeping a 6 year old system alive when with just a little bit more money I can build an all new top of the line rig.

I also fixed the audio problem i posted about a few pages ago. You guys will prob think I'm an idiot for not knowing this but I figured I should post it so that anyone searching for a fix will find this. My K8N Neo4 Platinum (PCB 1.0) has a plug for a front audio connector that, if not used, MUST have jumpers added to redirect sound to the rear audio jack. Since I wanted to use my coolermaster tower for my new rig I transfered my old 939 system to another case that did not have front audio plugs. I almost gave up but after like 3 weeks I ran over the MB manual one more time thinking maybe it was a plug that I missed and sure enough in a nice (rather conspicuous) gray box were the directions to put jumpers on the front audio connector if not used









(to admin: should I put search keywords here so anyone doing a g00gle search can find this fix?)


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311* 
What would you use instead?

I personally use Everest myself, and I have the sidebar function turned on (that's all I use it for). I have never had Everest give me a bad reading, even when my Gigabyte board went up in flames. Everest warned me, I just thought it was a stuck sensor







.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *evilpandy* 
pioneer, did you ever run all 4 sticks of your corsair in the dfi ultra-d?

I was thinking about picking up your s939 stuff to play around with my dfi board and then giving it to a buddy as an upgrade. (lol he's on a single core A64)

Will a thermalright xp-90 be able to take that opteron to 3.0?

Yes I did run all 4 sticks in the DFI board I had. It ran pretty well, although I couldn't get them to clock as high as I could on the Asus board. Probably user error more than anything, since I couldn't figure that DFI board out at all. The person that now has that DFI board says that it is HAPPILY clocking a 3200 Venice with ease, so I know it was an issue with me, not the board.

My personal ventures with the DFI board told me that the Corsair sticks were easier to clock than my Crucial sticks were. Again, could have been user error. I got the Corsairs to DDR433 stable with all 4 sticks @ 2.5-3-3-6-2T timing. I couldn't get the Crucial sticks to even break DDR400.

A Thermalright XP-90 is a great cooler. If I remember correctly, its a 90mm blow down cooler with heatpipes. In my personal experience, the stock heatpipe cooler was sufficient for 3.0GHz with my Opteron, since it only took 1.37v to get it stable there (1.3625 to be exact). Your miles may vary of course, but the XP-90 ought to be more than sufficient for any 939 chip with under 1.50v.


----------



## jammy4041

Let me join









Prime95 stable: 302x8 = 2416MHz
htpp://[URL=http://www.jamesspace.net/prime95+oc.PNG%5B/img]www.jamesspace.net/prime95+oc.PNG[/img[/URL]]

Highest Overclock, see link in sig - 2560 MHz (320x8)

Currently at 250x9 = 2250 (htt = 1000MHz) [IMG alt=""]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/frown.gif









Pity my gigabyte board won't let me change voltage!!
















long live socket 939, and athlon 64 FTW!!! :rock


----------



## eternalenergy311

Attachment 172472

Attachment 172473


----------



## ZFedora

I have an AMD Athlon X2 Toledo 939

Pic:


----------



## Cyrious

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ZFedora* 
I have an AMD Athlon X2 Toledo 939

Pic:

holy crap i just got the same thing, makes a WORLD of a difference when folding, because now the GPU folding can have its own core and the CPU folding can have the free core instead of both fighting over the same core. ALL HAIL THE A64 DUAL CORE









(and the reason my HT link is at 800 instead of 1ghz is because i am currently running a gateway BIOS on its board instead of the default HP or MSI bios, the latter of which gets me a little more control over the system. I aint using it though because its not quite the right bios, and i end up losing most of my CPU cycles to hardware interrupts on a bus that isnt there. )


----------



## theCanadian

It excites me that people are still joining this club.


----------



## Wazige

The first pc i bought was an athlon 64 3000+ with a DFI NF Ultra D board. That thing was so nice back then







If i remember correctly the highest stable overclock i achieved was in the 2600-2700 range.


----------



## 420Assassin

Well got my first DFI board. SAD







to see them stop making lanparty. But got it in a case with no side panel air cooler cpu

Got a 2.55GHz oc on it CPUZ VALIDATION

CPU hit 59c during stress test N/B 49c. Had to loosen orig ram timings from 2-3-2-5 to 3-3-3-8 cant seem to get ram to oc that great voltages at 2.7 but i also had a bobo with this ram PIC botom stick 1 gold plate came off other chared from spark.. ram wasnt seated properly in old asus board when i did a cleaning and ya mobo went bye bye but ram still works. only 1 of 2 modules was damaged.



and attached are the cpu temps and voltages then the north bridge temps. N/B has an old fan about 3inches away blowing onto it no room between heatsink and 8800gtx video card..

I think i can push a lil more outa it cpu wise but temps getting to the high mark 4 me. But from 2GHz to 2.55GHz not bad first DFI OC attempt.

EDIT: any suggestions on how to get bit more outa ram greatly appreciated wanna try and get ddr500 if possible


----------



## theCanadian

Playing grid right now. PW is as usual.

EDIT: done playing grid now. New boy on the block is quite fast. For a keyboard user.


----------



## BlackOmega

420Assassin, IIRC, there's really not a whole helluva lot of performance to gained from OCing the RAM. You're better off trying to get a higher clock speed.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackOmega* 
420Assassin, IIRC, there's really not a whole helluva lot of performance to gained from OCing the RAM. You're better off trying to get a higher clock speed.

This 100%. Get your CPU as high as you can go first. Tweak RAM later. That's what I'm doing







. I found out my quad can only reach 3.70GHz, no matter the voltage, or any other settings, and I used 6-6-6-18 with DDR2-880 on it for that (sticks are rated for 1066 @ 5-5-5-15). Now, I'm tweaking them to get them down to where they should be (for whatever reason, with 4 sticks I can't break DDR2-1000).


----------



## mxthunder

Who in here knows the most about the MSI Neo4-f mobo, using Windows 7?


----------



## jojorockets52

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Wazige* 
The first pc i bought was an athlon 64 3000+ with a DFI NF Ultra D board. That thing was so nice back then







If i remember correctly the highest stable overclock i achieved was in the 2600-2700 range.

haha that was my first custom PC. I just got rid of it like a year ago XD!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


This 100%. Get your CPU as high as you can go first. Tweak RAM later. That's what I'm doing







. I found out my quad can only reach 3.70GHz, no matter the voltage, or any other settings, and I used 6-6-6-18 with DDR2-880 on it for that (sticks are rated for 1066 @ 5-5-5-15). Now, I'm tweaking them to get them down to where they should be (for whatever reason, with 4 sticks I can't break DDR2-1000).


You may want to look into making your next hardware purchase a USB thumb/flash drive so that you can try different bios versions







You might find online deals that come w/a free 2-4gb flash drives. I think if you update your bios you may be able to get better clocks & or speeds w/tighter timings out of your ram. I'm in the same boat w/my GD70. I can't get it to post w/the Mushkin Redline native ram speeds and timings either. It's gotta be a bios issue.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
You may want to look into making your next hardware purchase a USB thumb/flash drive so that you can try different bios versions







You might find online deals that come w/a free 2-4gb flash drives. I think if you update your bios you may be able to get better clocks & or speeds w/tighter timings out of your ram. I'm in the same boat w/my GD70. I can't get it to post w/the Mushkin Redline native ram speeds and timings either. It's gotta be a bios issue.

What are those Mushkins rated for?


----------



## N2Gaming

1600MHz 6-8-6-24-1T 1.65v


----------



## BlackOmega

Well 1600MHz @ CAS 6 is going to be really difficult to achieve. Not to mention that is the XMP profile which is an intel spec so it doesn't really apply to AMD's. I found that out with my Patriot vipers which are rated for 1866MHz @ CAS 8. Not a snowballs chance in hell was I able to even get to 1866MHz, let alone at CAS 8. Although, I did manage to get 1600MHz @ CAS 7.







.

Out of curiosity, what was your CPU-NB frequency when you attempted 1600MHz?


----------



## Blitz6804

Actually BlackOmega, it is not as impossible as you might believe. Gooface has the G.Skill Flares (DDR3-2000 CL9), and so far we have gotten them up to DDR3-1960 CL9. That last 40 MHz is being bothersome though.


----------



## Tator Tot

Thuban's got a much stronger IMC (being the E0 Revision) which is why.


----------



## N2Gaming

I tried all kinds of variables. HTT overclocking, ram divider of 1:4 w/ram set at 1600 and attempted all kinds of NB frequencies like 2k, 2.2K, 2.4k, 2.5k, 2.6k, 2.8k and 3k but was not able to get them to post w/CAS 6 period. I even tried to post w/them all the way down to ram speeds of 1066 and no go. My CPU's DDR3 IMC or my mobo's bios don't like CAS 6 atm.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I tried all kinds of variables. HTT overclocking, ram divider of 1:4 w/ram set at 1600 and attempted all kinds of NB frequencies like 2k, 2.2K, 2.4k, 2.5k, 2.6k, 2.8k and 3k but was not able to get them to post w/CAS 6 period. I even tried to post w/them all the way down to ram speeds of 1066 and no go. My CPU's DDR3 IMC or my mobo's bios don't like CAS 6 atm.

Hmm.... well that's odd. With my sticks I could get CAS 6 to post and could even test it @ 1600, I just couldn't stabilize it for the life of me.

Which GD70 revision and BIOS do you have?

Also, when messing around with your RAM did you adjust the VDDR-PHY voltage at all? (I think that's what it's called). I know that one was the key to getting my RAM + CPU-NB frequencies stable.


----------



## N2Gaming

I am trying to use the stock bios on the board v1.9 and I have not messed w/any of those voltages. I'll have to try those out when I get my new kit back in prolly a few weeks


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mxthunder* 
Who in here knows the most about the MSI Neo4-f mobo, using Windows 7?

That was my first board. What do you need to know?


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey all tmj has been very busy lately and says he is doing good. He wanted me to say hi to every one for him and I know he wishes he had more free time to be around more often.

Happy Friday every one,









N2G


----------



## dimwit13

i have been looking to upgrade my single core 939 3200+ with a dual core.
i have opportunity to buy a Opty 170 for $60 shipped.
he said it has never been overclocked and it has been sitting in his closet for a long time-since his 939 MB died.
is $60 a good deal?
is this a good cpu?
what should i look for in the chip?
good batch numbers?

i want to let him know by Monday, so he will save it for me-if it isn't a good deal, i will tell him,i pass.

thanks guys

-dimwit-


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

Try and talk him down because 60 for older tech seems kind of steep.


----------



## ny_driver

True....you can get them for $60 shipped on ebay...wow prices have really dropped.

I would find out the stepping/batch# of the chip. If it is CCBWE I'd probably pass. CCB1E, CCBBE, LCB9E are usually the best steppings...I have had them all. CCBWE may get you 2.7-2.8GHz, but the others might get you 2.9-3GHz.


----------



## nategr8ns

You could probably get it for $50. A few weeks ago they were plentiful on ebay for around there. Right now there's just one dual core opty (its a 165).

Guys, my single core is killing me. I'm trying to decide if I want to get another dual core opty, or upgrade my core components to an i5/PII setup.


----------



## ny_driver

Here are 2 Opty 170s for 49.99 OBO







but looks like CCBWE or who knows what?

http://cgi.ebay.com/AMD-Dual-Core-Op...item1e5eb588e7

http://cgi.ebay.com/AMD-Dual-Core-Op...item1e5ea68a3c

They have 6 available, you could ask them if they have a particular stepping...I have done that before a few times and gotten what I wanted.


----------



## dlee7283

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Guys, my single core is killing me. I'm trying to decide if I want to get another dual core opty, or upgrade my core components to an i5/PII setup.


it isn't as expensive to upgrade as it use to be so just go for it with no regrets

U can get a nice quad core setup with a decent motherboard now for about $100 bucks via Microcenter. Fry's also has some killer deals as well.DDR2 Ram can had pretty cheap if u get second hand stuff.

I remember people not upgrading from 939 because they didn't want to upgrade to DDR2 or a new socket because of minimal performance gains, well that was understandable in my opinion until this year but good hardware has gotten so much cheaper the last few years it sort of makes sense to upgrade. You spend more money investing in old technology vs new. A perfect example of this is that u spend more on a Q9550 than an i5, which is better.


----------



## dimwit13

how about the Opty 285?
there are a few on Ebay for under $50.
are these good cpus?

-dimwit-

never mind-wrong socket-DOH!!!!!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Hey fellas, long time no see!

I've updated our Club roster. Big ups to our barrister-in-waiting Blitz6804 for helping massively in charting roster changes for me. And a big thank you to our latest additions, both to the main Club roster and to our Nostalgics list.

Been popping on to OCN a lot more than I had been for the last few months lately. Still ridiculously busy away from here, but I realized a few days ago that I've missed this place and this Club in particular.

Lots of us have already moved on from S939, it appears, but that doesn't stop our core members here still helping people out who still rock our mighty S939 gear!

Presently I've semi-retired my last S939 machine, but I'm still repairing/troubleshooting S939 rigs for my family.







I MAY have a S939 secret project in the works, though.







And if I do decide to move on that, I'll make sure to let everyone in on the secret as I go along.









One last thing: Big ups to N2G for your recent PMs to me. They helped pull me back into this thing!









Take care, y'alls! If y'all need anything from me, let me know via PM, and I'll do my best to pull through for you.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Nice to see ya Joe! I look forward to seeing more posts from you again







. Maybe a race sometime soon?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Nice to see ya Joe! I look forward to seeing more posts from you again







. Maybe a race sometime soon?









This word for word ^


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Nice to see ya Joe! I look forward to seeing more posts from you again







. Maybe a race sometime soon?









Yo, pio! N2G! (I see you!)
















I see some of you guys do GRID. How about some GTR2/GTR Evolution sometime?







Of course, I gotta unpack and set up my wheel+pedal set first (it's still boxed up from my move a couple of months ago).









I've actually posted a couple of times, repped a few good posts, elsewhere in OCN the last week or so. Been doing a ton of reading mostly. You hardcore S939ers (not that I'm not one myself; just been a bit absent lately) are doing a great job in here, so just carry on. If I've got something other than what you guys are sharing, I'll pipe in.


----------



## Blitz6804

It's TMJ... UNMASKED!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
It's TMJ... UNMASKED!

Yep. That's in honor of my man John Lennon's 70th birthday.









Hard to believe it's been thirty years since his assassination...

(Sorry for the OT.)


----------



## N2Gaming

I just heard from hueristic via email. He wanted me to say hi to every one for him and relay that he should be back around these parts some time in the near future.


----------



## Syrillian




----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I just heard from hueristic via email. He wanted me to say hi to every one for him and relay that he should be back around these parts some time in the near future.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Now we REALLY need to get some racing going. All the oldie 939 members. Ahh screw, new members too if they wanna







.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*











Now we REALLY need to get some racing going. All the oldie 939 members. Ahh screw, new members too if they wanna







.


Eventually. Yes.


----------



## BlackOmega

I'm down for some good ol racin!









And I was just wondering the other day what happened to Hue. Hope all is well with him.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Sup y'alls.

I feel like a good ol' fashioned S939 Club-exclusive contest!

Who's down?


----------



## N2Gaming

Oh sure now that you have your chip under water LOL







What's this one gonna be and what are all the details. I may have to break out my Expert/Opty-180/Crucial Ballistix for this thing you speak of tmj









Just so you know there is not a lot of 939 users these days from back in the days when you and Thlnkerbell were regularly post'n as most have moved on to either DDR2 or DDR3 rigs by now

I'm in the midst of trying to get my MSI 790FX-GD70 to run with decent clocks w/the mushkin redlines that I have kit # 996805 2x2gb. I'll try the SLi hack once I am confident that I can obtain faster everest read speeds w/this DDR3 once stable using a higher cpu / ram / nb clock speeds vs my current sig rig.


----------



## GuardianOdin

got a question for you 939'ers. I'm in need another 8800GT does anyone have one they're not using and would be willing to take 2-3 payments on?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Oh sure now that you have your chip under water LOL







What's this one gonna be and what are all the details. I may have to break out my Expert/Opty-180/Crucial Ballistix for this thing you speak of tmj









Just so you know there is not a lot of 939 users these days from back in the days when you and Thlnkerbell were regularly post'n as most have moved on to either DDR2 or DDR3 rigs by now

I'm in the midst of trying to get my MSI 790FX-GD70 to run with decent clocks w/the mushkin redlines that I have kit # 996805 2x2gb. I'll try the SLi hack once I am confident that I can obtain faster everest read speeds w/this DDR3 once stable using a higher cpu / ram / nb clock speeds vs my current sig rig.


LOL Nah, my wet machine ain't quite done yet. I have to finish repairing my dad's machine first.









Oh yeah, of course this will be S939 machines only.







I don't even have one running myself at the moment, but I can change that.

That is, given proper motivation...









Whoa whoa whoa. SLI hack on an 790FX?!?!? I've not heard about that...


----------



## GuardianOdin

just realized how huge this thread has become. Started on 02-13-08....wow, how time fly's


----------



## nategr8ns

GO, I'm still trying to get a second 8800GT to attempt an SLI mod on my Ultra-D (not sure if the hack/mod works with NF4 though...).

Joe, I'd be in for another contest. Unfortunately I don't have a dual core any more. Just this 3500+ (which I can only get to about 2.5/2.6GHz







).


----------



## pioneerisloud

I'd be down for another contest too. Sadly I cannot participate, as what you see in my sig is all I've got







. I could.....erm.....monitor you guys?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
LOL Nah, my wet machine ain't quite done yet. I have to finish repairing my dad's machine first.









Oh yeah, of course this will be S939 machines only.







I don't even have one running myself at the moment, but I can change that.

That is, given proper motivation...









Whoa whoa whoa. SLI hack on an 790FX?!?!? I've not heard about that...









I Think I will always have some sort of 939 system but have contenplated and started selling some of it recently. So far the only thing I could motivate my self to sell was the Gskill 2x1G DDR400 kit. I got back what I paid for it so no loss there other than not having them to tweek on any more. They were not much on the SLI DR but could really fly on the Expert.

I'll partake in a 939 event.









Oh and about the SLi hack. It's not so much a mobo hack as it is a way to trick Nvidia drivers into thinking you are using a mobo that has been SLi certified. SLi Hack Link for your awareness

*GuardianOdin:*

You don't have to use a 8800GT, you could use a 9800GT and the two of them should be able to SLi together w/out any issues.







I actually found this out by mistake when I had both a evga 8800GT and a BFG 9800 GT in my system. After booting up and windows installing the drivers it said I needed a reboot. After the reboot my system told me that I have a SLi ready computer. So I enabled it and it worked w/out a hitch. I did not hack the bios's and both cards show up as what they really are i.e. 1x 8800gt & 1x 9800gt. They are basically the same card w/a bios that says one is 88 & one is 98.

I could sell you either a 88 or 98 but I don't do payments sorry. Oh yeah and the 8800 is one that I bought a while back for the CC that I paid $40.00 for and it turned out to artifact very bad. So I eventually tried the bake it in the oven trick and it worked like a charm. The card is rock solid and I'm actually typing this on it atm.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I Think I will always have some sort of 939 system but have contenplated and started selling some of it recently. So far the only thing I could motivate my self to sell was the Gskill 2x1G DDR400 kit. I got back what I paid for it so no loss there other than not having them to tweek on any more. They were not much on the SLI DR but could really fly on the Expert.

I'll partake in a 939 event.









Oh and about the SLi hack. It's not so much a mobo hack as it is a way to trick Nvidia drivers into thinking you are using a mobo that has been SLi certified. SLi Hack Link for your awareness

*GuardianOdin:*

You don't have to use a 8800GT, you could use a 9800GT and the two of them should be able to SLi together w/out any issues.







I actually found this out by mistake when I had both a evga 8800GT and a BFG 9800 GT in my system. After booting up and windows installing the drivers it said I needed a reboot. After the reboot my system told me that I have a SLi ready computer. So I enabled it and it worked w/out a hitch. I did not hack the bios's and both cards show up as what they really are i.e. 1x 8800gt & 1x 9800gt. They are basically the same card w/a bios that says one is 88 & one is 98.

I could sell you either a 88 or 98 but I don't do payments sorry. Oh yeah and the 8800 is one that I bought a while back for the CC that I paid $40.00 for and it turned out to artifact very bad. So I eventually tried the bake it in the oven trick and it worked like a charm. The card is rock solid and I'm actually typing this on it atm.









Thanks N2, I've actually already spoken to Joe about getting one. Unfortunately with my hours being cut and such I have to make payments. No way around it right now =/

When I get it from him I hope there will be no issue. I'll have to post a GPU-Z shot of the card.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Glad to see all the guys posting again that I grew up with (on OCN). We need to get some sort of 939 group thing going. I just hope I can participate in some way, since I no longer own 939 gear







.

Also, if anybody wants to take ownership of the 939 Fan club, please PM me.


----------



## Cyrious

alright, since this is most likely the best place to ask:

i have a Athlon 64 3800+ toledo with an e6 stepping, and what i need to know is how far i can drop the core voltage with this particular processor. Right now im at 1.250 at stock clock and prime95 hasnt even coughed at me, but im still not sure how much further i can drop it without compromising the stability. Anyone care to give me an idea of when i should stop dropping the core voltage?

the reason i want to do this is to drop the amount of waste heat this processor is dumping into the air in my room, and by itself at full load its dumping more heat than my sig rig in its entirety, which means my room gets hot, and everything in my room, me included, begins to roast in the 85+F temps


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Sup y'alls.

I feel like a good ol' fashioned S939 Club-exclusive contest!

Who's down?


I am.....









Good to hear the buzz about a competition. Clubs like this one should do this on occasion since it only helps to improve things for all members in the long run.

I can't say I'd do so well in 3D benchies since my cards are old now and trying to save a few $$ to get a new one or two but it should be fun anyway.
Let's do this.

We need to start on deciding what benchies we 'd be running. Nuclearus MC is a decent one since it's multi-threaded and WPrime is another. Of course Super PI is one we'd probrably do too.

I'd also suggest a separate thread just for this, like I was running over at EOCF at one time. 
http://forums.extremeoverclocking.co...d.php?t=293244

And pray Drewmeister doesn't show up or it's over.









Speaking of this club/thread, might have been mentioned earlier but noted it's had over 1,000,000 views now. Probrably one of if not the biggest count of views in this entire forum.


----------



## N2Gaming

I don't know what you had in mind joe so I figured I'd throw out some idea's just in case your not entirely sure on the details of the event to take place.

How about some kind of max or high speed capability contest, followed by max stable speeds verified by a duration of timed benchmarks, followed by some kind of gaming in a series of eliminations like in a pool tournament leading up to the podium of 1st through 3rd place and then have some kind of way to calculate a Grand Event winner by means of averageing each events scrore to give a more over all picture of each persons participation and put forth efforts in this event.

For example:

Lets say one person gets the highest overclock possible on on a CPU and is given so many points for 1st place. Now lets just say 10 points for first place in each event but only if there are only 10 participants. Now if there was 15 participants than each event would award 15 points for first place and so on. I think you can see where I'm going with this.

Basically if there were 5 events then we could add the sum of every point per the 5 events to tally up each participants points count then divide it by 5 for an over all average points summary for each participant.

If there is a game involved then it should be one that is free or can be downloaded fairly easy and with enough time for each participant to practice and hone in their individual skills and tacticks while keeping in mind that there is a specific set of rules that could lead to any of the following, DQ, DNF or DNQ etc etc.

So now with all that in mind say Biff enteres in all 5 events

Events:

1 CPU Highest clock
2 Ram Highest clock
3 Max Ram Bandwidth
4 highest stable system overclock backed by a battery of stability tests and benchmarks
5 Gaming of some sort

Now after all 5 events Biff scores the following in each event

1: 6 points
2: 9 points
3: 2 Points
4: 15 Points
5: 7 points

We would add the sum of his points to give us his total points count of 39 points then we'd divide his total points count by the number of events he scored to give us his total average participation point count of 7.8 points. So in this example he would be some where in the range of 7th to 8th place depeding on how others finish and in the event of of a tie we could hold some kind of tie breaker where each of the persons in the tie would have to either blog or explain in great detail how they felt about all the events and who they think should win the tie and why.

I like fairness in contests but sadly there is not always fairness in contests. This makes me think that we could apoing one or several Referies like PIO &/or others who are either retired or nestalgic 939er's that would have a neutral standing on who wins and would be able to initiate DQ's if any participants actions permit those decisions with out prejudice or favoritism and have the ability to submit evidence for needed officialling upon requests.

IDK what you had in mind joe but if ony one of my idea's sounds good then I'm glad I could help.

Cheers with Rootbeers,

N2Gaming

Cyrious just push the voltage as low as you can while maintaining stabilty. I don't think you can hurt any thing by doing so and if I'm wrong about that then some one else please chime in.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Cyrious, unfortunately there's really no "standard" answer to your question.







Each chip is different in terms of its reactions to changes in core voltage.

I think pioneerisloud has got some good experience as far as dropping his VCore on his chip. I seem to recall him posting that he's gone as low as 1.2V or something like that. I'd ask him for more specifics.

Kryton: Oh wow! I didn't realize we've been that popular!









N2G: Dunno yet what format our next contest will have, but I have to say I REALLY like the multi-format context you've laid out. What do the rest of you think?

(I'll check back later. My beloved 49ers may finally be about to break their duck and get their first win!)


----------



## nategr8ns

^ I think its cool, but it will be super time consuming. Ya'll should wait until I get into college before doing a time consuming contest







.


----------



## Kryton

I also like N2's ideas.
Let Pio along with another judge (Or few of them) do their thing as refs.

nategr8ns, it's not as time consuming as you'd think.


----------



## Cyrious

well, after about 6 hours of nonstop prime95 and dropping the voltage incrementally during that run, i am down to 1.1V which is as low as i can get it through software, as my board cant do it through bios (crappy HP board with a slightly less crappy gateway bios). Clock speed is still at stock, and load temps went from 50-52C to a much cooler 38C. Guess i have a decent chip that can run at the minimum VID at the max multiplier. If i had a better board, i would overclock it.

hopefully, it shouldnt crap out on me, and in the meantime i must get my seedbox configured and ready to rock.


----------



## pioneerisloud

My Opteron was able to stabilize at 1.0v (the lowest I could go). I was stable there up to 2.4GHz. 2.7GHz took 1.12v. 2.8GHz took 1.20v. And 3.0GHz took 1.36v.

It's all up to how lucky your chip is with voltage. Turn your voltage down, and stress it is all I can tell you.


----------



## redhat_ownage

i got my 3.3ghz capable athlon 4000 doing HTPC duty at stock clocks.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage* 
i got my 3.3ghz capable athlon 4000 doing HTPC duty at stock clocks.









There's no shame in that







. If I still had my Opty rig, it would be running 2.7GHz with 1.12v for HTPC use. I miss that rig.


----------



## Cyrious

well its still running smoothly and cool, but even so, with my door closed the waste heat dumped into my room can raise temps by a considerable amount. I need to find a way of dealing with that which doesnt involve opening my door and allowing my kitten to run in and mess with my stuff.

I need a wall mounted thermometer too so i can monitor just how hot my room gets.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Cyrious* 
well its still running smoothly and cool, but even so, with my door closed the waste heat dumped into my room can raise temps by a considerable amount. I need to find a way of dealing with that which doesnt involve opening my door and allowing my kitten to run in and mess with my stuff.

I need a wall mounted thermometer too so i can monitor just how hot my room gets.

All I can really tell you, is lower your voltage....and stress it. See how low you can successfully go with it.


----------



## Cyrious

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


All I can really tell you, is lower your voltage....and stress it. See how low you can successfully go with it.


cheap board = i cant drop it any more. The only way i could control it in the first place is through crystalCPUID (see the link in my sig), and past 1.1V all the available options have question marks right next to them, which means it might not go any lower, and selecting them might result in a hard crash as the processor freaks out over the command to switch to a VID thats not there.

unless you wanna donate a microatx 939 board with PCI-E capable of supporting my processor, im stuck where im at, and i should be grateful for being able to drop it this far without instability.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Cyrious* 
cheap board = i cant drop it any more. The only way i could control it in the first place is through crystalCPUID (see the link in my sig), and past 1.1V all the available options have question marks right next to them, which means it might not go any lower, and selecting them might result in a hard crash as the processor freaks out over the command to switch to a VID thats not there.

unless you wanna donate a microatx 939 board with PCI-E capable of supporting my processor, im stuck where im at, and i should be grateful for being able to drop it this far without instability.

Ahh, I didn't realize you were using software. Well, 1.1v should be enough to keep the heat output down decently. That's a good drop from the stock 1.35v.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Wow guys, all I can say is wow. Just ran 3DMark06 and Vantage on my sig rig.

Old Opty rig scored:
06 - 11128 with a HD4850, CPU clocked to 3.1GHz
Vantage - 25xx with a HD4850, CPU clocked to 3.1GHz

Here's what I just got with my new build









3DMark06:









3DMark Vantage:









I am VERY impressed with this upgrade. Vantage was choppy on the Opty rig. It was smooth as butter throughout the entire test on this build (except for the 2nd CPU test).


----------



## N2Gaming

Looks good PIO.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Bah, benches are for wenches!









Hehehe


----------



## Blitz6804

Cyrious: As a user of CrystalCPUID myself, do not be afraid to try to go lower than 1.100 V. If it hard locks, it hard locks, just reboot and do not go as low the next time. The reason it is giving you the question marks is because 1.100 V is as low as the 5x multiplier is programmed to go. 9x gets 1.125 V, and your maximum multiplier gets the full 1.350 V. If it runs, great, if not, oh well.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Bah, benches are for wenches!









Hehehe










Why do you think it took me almost 3 months of having this rig to run those?







I honestly usually don't care too much about benchmarks, but I thought it'd be fun to see what this baby could do compared to the Opty.

I'm actually disappointed in my 06 score. A guy with an x3 720 @ 3.6GHz and a GTX260 scores higher (with PhysX off).

Oh well, I can max out any of my games with absolute ease, so I'm not all that worried about a generic benchmark. I just thought it was fun to see, and compare to similar systems.


----------



## Cyrious

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Cyrious: As a user of CrystalCPUID myself, do not be afraid to try to go lower than 1.100 V. If it hard locks, it hard locks, just reboot and do not go as low the next time. The reason it is giving you the question marks is because 1.100 V is as low as the 5x multiplier is programmed to go. 9x gets 1.125 V, and your maximum multiplier gets the full 1.350 V. If it runs, great, if not, oh well.










+ rep and ill be sure to add that to my guide as well, if you dont mind.


----------



## pioneerisloud

My folding team rank is 939!!!!!


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Bah, benches are for wenches!









Hehehe










Looks like you may have something up your sleeve...Maybe.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 








My folding team rank is 939!!!!!

You have to take a screenshot!

Make the moment last FOREVER!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Looks like you may have something up your sleeve...Maybe.









Haha, I wish. I haven't even had time to finish up my H2O project (AM3).









Though, I've long been curious what would happen if I bust out my CFX3200, install Win7 on it (it was annoyingly flaky on WinXP), and get that puppy swimming?

Hmm...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
You have to take a screenshot!

Make the moment last FOREVER!

Haha, I wish. I haven't even had time to finish up my H2O project (AM3).









Though, I've long been curious what would happen if I bust out my CFX3200, install Win7 on it (it was annoyingly flaky on WinXP), and get that puppy swimming?

Hmm...









Done







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

@ pio:









(I've always wanted to use that smiley.







)


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Haha, I wish. I haven't even had time to finish up my H2O project (AM3).









Hmm...









Mine is done already.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Mine is done already.









So tempted to take a S939 rig swimming...


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
So tempted to take a S939 rig swimming...

Hey, go for it!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Hey, go for it!

What rad and block did you use on yours?


----------



## Enfluenza

dont forget me!
i have an opteron 170 (denmark i think) @ stock and a Athlon 64 3500+ (venice)

the athlon is retired


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Enfluenza* 
dont forget me!
i have an opteron 170 (denmark i think) @ stock and a Athlon 64 3500+ (venice)

the athlon is retired

Enfluenza, have you got any CPU-Z links for those beauties?


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
What rad and block did you use on yours?

The block is an OCZ Hydroflow and the rad itself is a Koolance triple fan unit. Also have a MCP 655 Vario pump with it too.

There are better blocks out there but this one has been good and it works with an AM3 as well.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
The block is an OCZ Hydroflow and the rad itself is a Koolance triple fan unit. Also have a MCP 655 Vario pump with it too.

There are better blocks out there but this one has been good and it works with an AM3 as well.

Sweet. Thanks, Kryton!

I've presently got a FuZion v2 on my 965 C3, with a MCR320-QP for the rad. I forget exactly what pump I've got, but it's an older one as well. Very curious about the XSPC Rasa block. Cheap (around $50.00), but an excellent performer according to the reviews I've read.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Sweet. Thanks, Kryton!

I've presently got a FuZion v2 on my 965 C3, with a MCR320-QP for the rad. I forget exactly what pump I've got, but it's an older one as well. Very curious about the XSPC Rasa block. Cheap (around $50.00), but an excellent performer according to the reviews I've read.

If it will work with an AM3 and the older 754/939/AM2 sockets, should be worth it at that price.


----------



## ZFedora

Add me:

Amd Athlon X2 3800+ at 2GHz Stock


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ZFedora* 
Add me:

Amd Athlon X2 3800+ at 2GHz Stock

Dude, get our links out of your sig with that OBVIOUSLY fake "proof".

As taken from your sig:









That's not proof at all...just proof you know how to use Paint or Photoshop.


----------



## Enfluenza

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Enfluenza, have you got any CPU-Z links for those beauties?









sure! i'll get it once i connect my mom's PC to teh interwebz








since the A64 is retired, i'll show a pic
the one on the left is 939 and the one on the right is 754.
i'll take a better pic once i get time...


----------



## ZFedora

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Dude, get our links out of your sig with that OBVIOUSLY fake "proof".

As taken from your sig:









That's not proof at all...just proof you know how to use Paint or Photoshop.

I did that for fun, if you want a real one I can provide that, I didnt know you had to, lay the hell off.










I didn't even provide that as proof idiot


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 








My folding team rank is 939!!!!!


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Enfluenza* 
sure! i'll get it once i connect my mom's PC to teh interwebz








since the A64 is retired, i'll show a pic
the one on the left is 939 and the one on the right is 754.
i'll take a better pic once i get time...









Let me guess - The one on the right is a 3400+ Newcastle.









I have two of those and the last two characters AX tells me that's what it is and both of mine are also of the same stepping. Good chips to have but the only drawback is they do run rather warm but clock well if you can keep them cool.

Here's my best so far with mine:
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=780531


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Let me guess - The one on the right is a 3400+ Newcastle.









I have two of those and the last two characters AX tells me that's what it is and both of mine are also of the same stepping. Good chips to have but the only drawback is they do run rather warm but clock well if you can keep them cool.

Here's my best so far with mine:
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=780531


Wow, impressive overclock! I've never been able to play with anything pre-939 except premades.


----------



## xximanoobxx

my first desktop was an AMD Athlon 64, but I forgot which one. This was back in 7th or 8th grade.(2005/2006)


----------



## nategr8ns

^ My first non-barebones custom build was 939 somewhere around those years, single core 3800+, 1gb of ram.


----------



## Enfluenza

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Let me guess - The one on the right is a 3400+ Newcastle.









I have two of those and the last two characters AX tells me that's what it is and both of mine are also of the same stepping. Good chips to have but the only drawback is they do run rather warm but clock well if you can keep them cool.

Here's my best so far with mine:
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=780531

wow! thats like...4.5Ghz on todays CPUs (cuz K8 was faster clock for clock







)
i think its a newcastle. i got it from my tech ed teacher encrusted with thermal cement paste








lol took for ever to clean that crap off








i never used it before tho. i have a 3200+ ClawHammer tho (used for 7 years)
how well did those OC? i heard its like a lower end athlon FX
if it can OC well i might resurect that old mobo in the corner.

all i need is a spare IDE HDD and CD drive and i dont have any extras








*cough* if any1 has those can i have it? *cough*


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Enfluenza* 
wow! thats like...4.5Ghz on todays CPUs (cuz K8 was faster clock for clock







)
i think its a newcastle. i got it from my tech ed teacher encrusted with thermal cement paste








lol took for ever to clean that crap off








i never used it before tho. i have a 3200+ ClawHammer tho (used for 7 years)
how well did those OC? i heard its like a lower end athlon FX
if it can OC well i might resurect that old mobo in the corner.

all i need is a spare IDE HDD and CD drive and i dont have any extras








*cough* if any1 has those can i have it? *cough*

Believe it's a Newcastle by the AX at the end of the CPU model data string. Only thing that might make it a different core would be a larger L2 cache - It looks like the character for indicating the L2 cache size is a 6 instead of a 5 and that would indeed make it a different chip. Newcastles had a 512MB L2 cache. (ADA3400AEP6AX)

To be 100% sure you can go here and look it up by the info on it's lid:
http://www.cpu-world.com/

Clawhammer chips are crap for OC'ing compared to other core types. OK for basic use but these always run hot and I've never seen one do well without extreme cooling and even then, they don't measure up.

Speaking of 939 FX chips, there were two versions of the FX, one being a Clawhammer and the other was a San Diego. The Claws like the regular ones were a joke for being an unlocked chip but the San Diego's were a different story. Biggest thing about a Claw was it ran hot while clocking poorly - Also like the regular Claws would.
Be sure if you get one, you KNOW what it is before buying since I've seen a few Claw FX chips being passed off as San Diego FX chips.


----------



## Enfluenza

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
Definitely a Newcastle by the AX at the end of the CPU model data string.

Clawhammer chips are crap for OC'ing compared to other core types. OK for basic use but these always run hot and I've never seen one do well without extreme cooling and even then, they don't measure up.

Speaking of 939 FX chips, there were two versions of the FX, one being a Clawhammer and the other was a San Diego. The Claws like the regular ones were a joke for being an unlocked chip but the San Diego's were a different story. Biggest thing about a Claw was it ran hot while clocking poorly - Also like the regular Claws would.
Be sure if you get one, you KNOW what it is before buying since I've seen a few Claw FX chips being passed off as San Diego FX chips.

lol ok.
i think i attempted OCing the clawhammer (only 3 fsb) and it didnt POST :/
i think most people got ~2.2-2.4Ghz tops with my model








so i guess i'll test the 3400+ and see how it clocks! once i find an old IDE drive and a CD drive.

oh wait...i thing i'll do linux thru a flash drive instead. ok now i need a HDD


----------



## Kryton

Thought I pulled off a Ninja-edit but too slow.









Yes, you can check out the info on the CPU World site and see exactly what you have.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I have to give a special thanks to Blitz here.

I'm currently still stress testing it, but Blitz showed me a guide he wrote on K10Stat. My board doesn't have CPU-NB voltage options, since its a SB600 board. It supports it, but DFI never released a BIOS for it.

Well, I'm now stress testing at the clocks and voltages in my sig, thanks to that K10Stat guide. So far, I've been able to LOWER my CPU Vcore and my Memory voltage and retain somewhat stability at these clocks. Before, I couldn't even do that with the 9x NB clock (2376MHz).

So by what appears to be 3pm PST today I should know for sure if its stable







. If not, I'll adjust accordingly, but I think I'll end up getting 2640MHz NB stable though.


----------



## nategr8ns

Wow, I have no idea how any of the new hardware really works...

Undervolting is always fun, but come on, its winter time







. You should be going in the opposite direction!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I have to give a special thanks to Blitz here.

Blitz showed me a guide he wrote on K10Stat.


Is this guide posted?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Is this guide posted?

Yeah he has it posted here in his build log.

Oh, and I'm stable here now







. Gonna try even less volts next time







.










Oh, and as far as trying for higher....been there tried that. For whatever reason (board, CPU, memory timings, or NB settings)...I'm hitting a flat out brick wall at 3.7GHz. If I try for 3.73GHz, I BSOD almost immediately no matter the voltages I give it.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Seems I can't quite break past 3.8GHz







. I'm 20MHz shy of my goal. But I've been stress testing the clocks in my sig now for over an hour. I can boot into Windows as high as 3.95GHz. But I BSOD immediately when stress goes on my RAM.

EDIT:
Nevermind, wasn't stable at 3.78GHz, 1.58v / DDR2-900 @ 5-6-5-15, 2.30v. Back down to the known stable OC that I have screenshotted above







.


----------



## Blitz6804

ASRock strikes again! 790GX, Socket 939... GOGOGO!


----------



## N2Gaming

where is this htpc mobo being sold?


----------



## Blitz6804

The only place I have found so far is in Europe.


----------



## N2Gaming

When will it becomes available in the states?


----------



## Blitz6804

If it follows the 939A785GMH, never.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
If it follows the 939A785GMH, never.

That's a shame.


----------



## CramComplex

Well that's a bummer







got an Athlon X2 i wanna revive


----------



## nategr8ns

I would probably be too cheap to buy it anyway. It would be awesome if they could slap on an external memory controller to go with the new chipset, but I guess the AM2/3 procs have the MCs built in as well?
I still can't believe that ASrock keeps doing this. I can't imagine that the development costs can be payed off by the few people who would purchase this.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

To be honest, I'm amazed that any hardware manufacturer still sees fit to develop projects for S939. In a way that's really totally awesome, in that it's really a good bit of validation for the strength of the platform.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
To be honest, I'm amazed that any hardware manufacturer still sees fit to develop projects for S939. In a way that's really totally awesome, in that it's really a good bit of validation for the strength of the platform.

Did we ever have any doubt at all about the strength of our 939 gear? Even though I've moved onto bigger better CPU's and memory densities, my Opteron has to be probably the BEST machine I have ever had. I miss it dearly







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Did we ever have any doubt at all about the strength of our 939 gear? Even though I've moved onto bigger better CPU's and memory densities, my Opteron has to be probably the BEST machine I have ever had. I miss it dearly







.

Yeah, I still love me some S939. I wish I had one running, just for nostalgia's sake.

Pretty soon, though, I may have some news for everyone.









It involves a certain rather... troublesome S939 legend for a motherboard.









Long-time S939 Clubbers know what I'm talking about, surely...


----------



## N2Gaming

It feels kind of like it will be a UT-CFX3200-DR making a coming back from the salvage yard









Quote:

Quote:



*Overview:*

Supports all Socket 939 AMD Athlon 64/FX/X2 CPUs with Cool 'n' Quiet technology;
Four DDR memory slots supporting up to 4GB of DDR400;
ATI CrossFire Xpress 3200 north bridge (RD580), ULi M1575 south bridge;
Two full bandwidth PCI-Express x16 slots with CrossFire support, two PCI-Express x1 slots and three PCI expansion slots;
7.1 channel Realtek ALC882 High Definition Azalia audio with RCA S/PDIF In and Out;
Four ULi M1575 SATA 300MBps ports supporting RAID 0, 1, 0+1, 5 and JBOD configs;
Silicon Image 3114 SATA controller with four SATA 150MBps ports supporting RAID 0, 1, 0+1, 5 and JBOD configs;
Two Marvell Yukon PCI-Express based Gigabit Ethernet controllers (88E8052 and 88E8053) with support for _Teaming_ Technology and Redundant Link Management Technology (RLMT);
Support for eight USB 2.0 ports (six on back I/O panel and two via on-board pin headers);
Support for two IEEE 1394a connectors (one on the back I/O panel and one via on-board pin headers);
Two ATA133 connectors and one floppy drive connector.


Tell me I'm wrong.









Edit: I think that mobo just happens to be the reason why DFI-Street was closed down and then turned into what it has become today.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

^^ There's a man who knows.









Hehehe


----------



## N2Gaming

I learned from the best here and there.


----------



## pioneerisloud

It's either gotta be the DFI Crossfire board or the Asus, although I'm leaning more towards the DFI







. Can't wait to see what you do with her Joe







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Impatience is NOT my friend right now. I'm waiting for, um, a particular set of parts to finally get shipped by FrozenCPU. They're holding up my parade!

To cut the suspense (haha, as if there was any), I'll go ahead and tell y'all: Yes, I'll be resurrecting the CFX3200. There are some reports that suggest that, while the CFX was definitely a challenge to get stable even on stock clocks with XP, the board's problems were somehow "cured" when switching up to a newer Windows OS.

Yeah, it's a goofy kind of story, I know, but I'm now able to find out whether or not this is actually true. To my mind it makes zero logical sense (I mean, if it's a hardware-related issue, how could different software magically solve it, right?), but there are enough reports of this phenomenon that I'm willing to try.

Couldn't hurt anything, I figure.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Joe, I think part of the reason why its so much better with Vista and 7 is likely because of much more stable drivers, and an overall more stable environment. I remember my XP days very well. I would get a random blue screen if I even looked at my rig wrong. After switching to Vista and 7, I have NEVER had a BSOD, unless I was directly testing stability.


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

My GF's 3800x2 s939 is still running strong on her Asus A8n-e


----------



## Cyrious

alrighty, another question for the S939 know-it-alls. Two actually.

1. Is the memory controller on the processor directly linked to the core voltage? EG i lower the core voltage, i lower the memory controller voltage?
and
2. If the above is true, would lowering the controller voltage too far or at a reduced voltage for too long cause a random restart?

I ask because my folding rig went on the fritz today while i was getting my seedbox online, and every time it randomly crashed out, it came back with ~3500000kb instead of ~3400000kb, and when windows loaded the graphics driver didnt load for some reason. It also wouldnt post unless certain sticks were in certain slots, and an external stick i KNOW works failed to post in all 4 slots. I raised the core voltage after the second restart from 1.150 (1.100 was causing trouble in the long run) to 1.175, and so far it hasnt crashed or randomly restarted.
My reasoning that it was the memory controller acting up stems from the odd behavior of the ram and the fact that a GPU-related crash on this rig hard-locks the system instead of rebooting it.

the memory timings are actually quite loose, 3-2-4-8 @ 200mhz is what the gateway bios is setting the timings at, the clock speed i specified myself, and ive run all 4 at 3-3-3-12 @ 400mhz without a hitch.
i wish i had a bios for this board that actually gave me ram timing control, but its wishful thinking.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Yes and yes.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Joe, I think part of the reason why its so much better with Vista and 7 is likely because of much more stable drivers, and an overall more stable environment. I remember my XP days very well. I would get a random blue screen if I even looked at my rig wrong. After switching to Vista and 7, I have NEVER had a BSOD, unless I was directly testing stability.


pio, I suspect you're correct about this. That's what I'm keen to learn with the CFX3200.









OK, guys, a quick head count: Who here is still actively running their S939 kit? I've got an idea for a contest, but I won't tell y'all what it is until I see if it's a good enough idea.









I may have a prize or two on offer for the winner, too, so don't be shy if you've got your S939 stuff still going.


----------



## nategr8ns

*raises hand*

But it doesn't have an opteron any more. I'm running a 3500+ single core because my Opteron randomly died at the beginning of the summer.


----------



## Blitz6804

I am with Pio in one regard, I suspect the Windows Vista/7 driver is more stable than those of Windows XP one. I am against him in another, in that Windows XP, for me, was more stable than Vista or 7. Even fully vetted stability wise, Windows 7 can occasionally just fall apart, a phenomenon I never had in Windows XP. (Granted, 7 does it far less frequently than Vista did.)


----------



## N2Gaming

I still have a few s939 options that can be put back on line at a moments notice


----------



## ZFedora

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


pio, I suspect you're correct about this. That's what I'm keen to learn with the CFX3200.









OK, guys, a quick head count: Who here is still actively running their S939 kit? I've got an idea for a contest, but I won't tell y'all what it is until I see if it's a good enough idea.









I may have a prize or two on offer for the winner, too, so don't be shy if you've got your S939 stuff still going.










Im running a s939 X2 3800+ currently


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Running total of S939 Club people still running S939 gear today:

nategr8ns
N2Gaming
ZFedora
Cyrious
Kryton
SwishaMane
theCanadian
vspec
BlackOmega
More, I hope?


----------



## Cyrious

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Running total of S939 Club people still running S939 gear today:

nategr8ns
N2Gaming
ZFedora
More, I hope?










my folding rig is packing a S939 dual core


----------



## N2Gaming

I can almost guaranty Kryton and BO will be in on this...


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I can almost guaranty Kryton and BO will be in on this...









Haha, you're probably right, N2G!









Added Cyrious (don't call me Shirley) to the running total.


----------



## Cyrious

hey, i gotta do something with the old hardware, and i sure aint going to let it go to waste


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I can almost guaranty Kryton and BO will be in on this...









You know it.

Good to see you're bringing an oldie but a goodie back Joe! I've been wanting to experiment with extreme cooling myself for some time but just need the stuff to do it with.

Posting with the Opty 180 and the Asus A8N32 right now.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
You know it.

Good to see you're bringing an oldie but a goodie back Joe! I've been wanting to experiment with extreme cooling myself for some time but just need the stuff to do it with.

Posting with the Opty 180 and the Asus A8N32 right now.

LOL I gotta see if that mobo can work properly first.









Added Kryton to our running total.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I only wish I still had my Opty build







. By far the most fun I've ever had overclocking came from that build.


----------



## N2Gaming

I

 purchased one of these today
for temperature monitoring while playing with overclocking. I think this should come in some what usefull for monitoring temperatures of NB, SB, MCP, Mosfets etc etc .


----------



## SwishaMane

Hey guys, Im about to get my good ole 939 ES on a custom loop instead of this h50... I was able to boot at 3.18ghz, 1.5vcore, and 3dmark06 stable at 288x11...

939 rockzorz!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*


Hey guys, Im about to get my good ole 939 ES on a custom loop instead of this h50... I was able to boot at 3.18ghz, 1.5vcore, and 3dmark06 stable at 288x11...

939 rockzorz!


You go, Swisha!

BTW, I added you to our head count from a few posts back.


----------



## theCanadian

My sig rig is still together and functional. I use it when I go home once every couple months. Does that count?


----------



## vspec

I'm in, my old 939 rig is still running. http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=474902


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Added vspec and theCanadian to our running total.









Hope we get more! If you've got a S939 rig you're still actively running and you're a member of this Club, just give a holler in this thread!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

So, only eight (maybe nine, if I get my CFX3200 running again) of us have S939 gear currently running?









Any more?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
So, only eight (maybe nine, if I get my CFX3200 running again) of us have S939 gear currently running?









Any more?

I may be able to bring an Opty 170 & A8N32-SLi online for this with some Mushkin Redlines.

Though I'm going to have to re-cap the A8N first, and possibly replace a a VRM.
The thing got hit by a good surge from the wall, but I only see two caps on the bottom of the board showing damage. But since I get caps in bulk I'm gonna re-cap the whole thing. And then see if it'll still work.


----------



## BlackOmega

I've still got one put together.

DFI nf4 SLI-D(







), 3800x2, 2 Asus 9600GSO's, 4GB Corsair XMS. It has been my win7 test machine.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Alright! Spud & Omega Supreme, I'll add you fellas to my list o' doom.









Er, I mean, current runners.

Actually, I'll hold off on Tator, since his isn't running yet. But I got no worries about him.









We're getting close to finalizing a contest for our S939 machines. I'm also offering up a prize. What will this prize be? Let's just say it always helps when you've got spares, especially if you're running older hardware.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
since I get caps in bulk I'm gonna re-cap the whole thing. And then see if it'll still work.

Nice any chance you would be able to get caps for one of my DFI Expert mobo's? It needs a few caps.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Nice any chance you would be able to get caps for one of my DFI Expert mobo's? It needs a few caps.

What are the ratings on the caps?
And are the Solid or Electrolytic?

Unfortunately bulk only goes with Voltage & uF Rating.

So say I get 15v, 430uF caps; I can't just get some 15v 320uF or 550uF caps thrown in as well. They all have to match.

But if your caps are lower uF rated than the ones I'm getting, that is fine. Because you only have to match Voltage.


----------



## nategr8ns

Makes me wish I knew what was wrong with my first DFI board (purchased DOA







). Let me know how the repairs go Tator. I'm kind of curious to see how the repair process works







.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Alright! Spud & Omega Supreme, I'll add you fellas to my list o' doom.



















Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Er, I mean, current runners.

Actually, I'll hold off on Tator, since his isn't running yet. But I got no worries about him.









We're getting close to finalizing a contest for our S939 machines. I'm also offering up a prize. What will this prize be? Let's just say it always helps when you've got spares, especially if you're running older hardware.









I'm going to have to reinstall win7 on my test rig since I never activated it and it went past the 30 day mark. I don't think I can access the net anymore.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
What are the ratings on the caps?
And are the Solid or Electrolytic? .

I think they are Japanese Electrolitic Nipon Chemi-con 105c caps

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
But if your caps are lower uF rated than the ones I'm getting, that is fine. Because you only have to match Voltage.

Interesting. OK cool.

Well my eyes are kind of dialated atm from the eye doctor but I'll do my best at reading the caps.

Here is what they look like to me and quantities desired.

1x) 6.3v/1000uF = EKZE6R3ESS102MJC5S
this appears to be the voltage and uF values but the part number listed up there is most likely for a thicker cap than the one I actually need.

1x) 6.3v/1500uF = EKZM6R3ESS152MH20D
3x) 16v/1500uF = EKZM160ESS152MJ20S


----------



## Tator Tot

I may have some Electrolytic caps laying around; but you (usually) can't replace an Electrolytic with a Solid State cap.
They operate on different frequencies, and whole way the circuit is design can have negative effects unless you re-cap the board with them.

Though, those look to be Supercaps (yes real name), as normal Film or TF caps don't come in the 6.3v/1000uF variety.
I may have a few though.

I most likely do have some 16v/1500uF's as that's a much more common cap.

EDIT: I actually have a PSU with some 16v/2000uF & 2400uF caps on it








Dead HEC unit FTW


----------



## N2Gaming

how if any will the larger 2000uF effect the mobo?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
how if any will the larger 2000uF effect the mobo?

uF stands for Microfarads (see here) it's basically a rating to how much energy it can store.

Which is why the uF rating doesn't matter (As long as you don't put a lower rated cap on a circuit that wasn't designed for that lower of power output.)

So in short, higher uF rating, means more potential energy the cap can store


----------



## N2Gaming

OK thanks tator. I was thinking that the uF had some thing to do w/the frequency of the voltage or something like that. Then I got to thinking if I changed the frequency that I may end up over heating a circuit or two.


----------



## Blitz6804

Sorry Joe, like Pio, I'm out of 939 parts; every last CPU and RAM DIMM is gone. The only thing I have left is a (maybe) working 939 Gigabyte. The only RAM I have sitting around that is not DDR3 is RD400.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
OK thanks tator. I was thinking that the uF had some thing to do w/the frequency of the voltage or something like that. Then I got to thinking if I changed the frequency that I may end up over heating a circuit or two.

No, cap type actually has more to do with that, as frequency is changed by the material used.

Which is why all the caps on a board that deliver power to the CPU will all be the same type.

Though, because your NB or RAM DIMM's are not powered from the same circuit, they can use different cap types.


----------



## ZFedora

Got my Athlon 3800+ to 2.2ghz, p95ing for stability, going good so far.

It was a software overclock though







Gonna see if theres a 939 board for $50-60 that can overclock via bios.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1453616

At about 69-70C


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
No, cap type actually has more to do with that, as frequency is changed by the material used.

Which is why all the caps on a board that deliver power to the CPU will all be the same type.

Though, because your NB or RAM DIMM's are not powered from the same circuit, they can use different cap types.

OK I guess the best and most applicable question I can ask would be how do I determine what circuits these caps actually belong to?


----------



## murderbymodem

Socket 939 club, my old socket 939 build (also the first computer I ever built) is in need of help. Please click here!


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
OK I guess the best and most applicable question I can ask would be how do I determine what circuits these caps actually belong to?

Follow the traces on the back of the PCB.

Though generally you can assume where different caps apply power to, just by looking at the design.

As when you see 2 Power Phases, 4 caps, next to your RAM DIMM's, your safe bet is that's a power circuit for the RAM.

Same when you see that config near your NB.

Though with the spread out controller chips & PCI/PCIe ports on a board, it gets harder.


----------



## N2Gaming

Happy Halloween guys.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Happy Halloween guys.

Happy Halloween N2









Hope everyone had a great day today!
I actually had a slightly off one, as one of my oldest (and best) mate's went to the hospital today Saturday with kidney stone (though a small one) and we took him back there today. So Halloween was a bit hectic and all.
At least it's not appendicitis like they originally thought.









He's also the mate I'm trying to fix the A8N32-SLi for







some terrible luck recently for the both of us







but what doesn't kill us.

Either way; back to my repetitious studies and whatnot.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Happy Halloween, halloweenies!

This is what I looked like for part of the day:


----------



## pioneerisloud

How could I possibly have guessed???









Seriously though....looks good joe







. I was dressed as myself. Although last night I did almost got to wear a SUPER hot chick as my outfit














....if you get what I mean.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 







How could I possibly have guessed???









Seriously though....looks good joe







. I was dressed as myself. Although last night I did almost got to wear a SUPER hot chick as my outfit














....if you get what I mean.

That's right, baby. Lord Darth Vader, out of his business clothes, on Halloween.









Not S939-related, but some news: I'm currently doing leak testing and loop bleeding on my H2O-cooled AM3 machine as I type this. About a half hour in, no leaks so far.







This is seriously exciting for me!


----------



## N2Gaming

Will you be sharing pictures of your loop with us? NVM I found them.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Let's get some action going in here, shall we?

Here's a sneak peak at something I'll be working on soon.










Back from the silicon netherworld... to where shall it make its way?


----------



## Cyrious

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Let's get some action going in here, shall we?

Here's a sneak peak at something I'll be working on soon.










Back from the silicon netherworld... to where shall it make its way?

i have seen many odd ram positions, and the only setup that trumps that DFI board in the sheer oddity of it is a Asrock motherboard that not only had both socket 775 and 478 on it, but had the ram slots over halfway down the board and parallel to the expansion slots. And here i was thinking asrock was the only ones who made the really crazy stuff... turns out i was wrong. Nice board though.


----------



## N2Gaming

That is one of the first DFI boards along with the NF4 SLI DR Expert to use ram slots in a verticle configuration like that and it was to keep the heat from rising off the cpu onto the ram chips but I guess it really all depends on how the cpu cooling was set up and what direction you vent the heat if it is air cooled.









It also keeps the ram chips from venting heat vertically onto it self as well. You have to remember these boards were capable of pumping out over 3volts to the ram and maybe 4 volts iirc I don't know the exact numbers but it was up there quite a bit.


----------



## pioneerisloud

N2:
I believe those boards have a jumper on them, to force 3.2v up to 4.0v. Otherwise it was normal 2.5-3.3v if I remember right. I might be off slightly. But yes, it was at least 4.0v that they allowed through the RAM after the jumper was set.


----------



## N2Gaming

Thanks PIO It's been a while since I read my user manuals...


----------



## DesertRat

Random Q: What's the world record OC for any K8-arch chip?

Also, you can move me in as a nostalgic too. Sorry I haven't updated ya, but I'm all out of 939 gear sans a set of G.Skill 2x1GB DDR400 and some heatsinks.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Kryton might know what that World Record for K8s, DesertRat. Heck, he might even hold it.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I want to say 3.6GHz for the dual core Opty's. That is the world record for the 165's. Not sure about the others though.

EDIT:
My old 165 held the #8 place at 3.36GHz







. Dunno if its still in that place or not though. Forgot how to check the records now, lol.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

pio, what kind of cooling strategy did those world record-holding chips use?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


pio, what kind of cooling strategy did those world record-holding chips use?


I'm honestly not sure. I'd bet it was LN2 or DICE.

I couldn't break 3.36, even with DICE







. That 3.36 run was actually right after a few DICE attempts, we hit 3.32 on DICE. Called it quits, threw my air cooler back on it....and I was like, NO, I CAN push higher!!!

EDIT:
We all know I was motherboard limited though by that Asus.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Kryton might know what that World Record for K8s, DesertRat. Heck, he might even hold it.










No, I don't have that one but I did have the WR for all of Socket 754 in reference speed. I have the second highest speed now and the guy that beat me has me by less than a single MHz. Too bad his board died getting it done but mine is still kicking.








I'll get that back one day if the board has the guts to do it.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Because I'm such a tease, here's another shot of one of those things I'm working on...










That is an Opteron 170 sitting in the CFX3200-DR, the very same CPU that used to live in my ASUS A8N32-SLI Deluxe. She's had an easy life the last few months, but hopefully soon she'll come back from her semi-retirement.


----------



## nategr8ns

nicenicenicenicenice

Is that just standard electrical tape? lol


----------



## 420Assassin

fastest 939 oc i could find here
http://www.amdgeeks.net/overclock/577


----------



## Blitz6804

If you are talking a 939 K8, it looks like it might be a 3613 MHz 4200+. If you are talking any K8, this Windsor is at 4160 MHz.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
If you are talking a 939 K8, it looks like it might be a 3613 MHz 4200+. If you are talking any K8, this Windsor is at 4160 MHz.

Holy CRAP! 3.6 on a MANNY!!! Talk about a golden chip







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


nicenicenicenicenice

Is that just standard electrical tape? lol


Yep. Standard electrical tape.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


If you are talking a 939 K8, it looks like it might be a 3613 MHz 4200+. If you are talking any K8, this Windsor is at 4160 MHz.


Actually it's 3696.3Mhz


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Yep. Standard electrical tape.










I know what you're up to. 
You'll be hitting 3.4 no prob and probrably in the 3.5 or 3.6 range.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


I know what you're up to. 
You'll be hitting 3.4 no prob and probrably in the 3.5 or 3.6 range.


Uh oh, I've been found out.









3.4GHz on a Denmark? On a CFX3200-DR? Well... maybe if it was working...









Since I'm in the mood to tease y'all some more, here's a psychedelic look:


----------



## pioneerisloud

Can't wait to see what you come up with joe!


----------



## HothBase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


If you are talking a 939 K8, it looks like it might be a 3613 MHz 4200+. If you are talking any K8, this Windsor is at 4160 MHz.


According to CPU-Z Hall of Fame it's 4352.9 MHz on a K8 Brisbane.


----------



## nategr8ns

Today is a snow/rain/wind day, so no school. I'm going to try to overclock my 3500+ for the winter temps







.

Not sure safe values for "LDT Voltage" and the Chip Set voltage. I don't even know what LDT is.

Aiming for 2.9ghz on this thing. I doubt it will make it, but lets see: 263x11, about to boot. 1.4V Vcore to start.


----------



## Blitz6804

LDT = HyperTransport.


----------



## nategr8ns

Anyway, 270FSB is stable with a 7.5 multiplier, but not with an x11. I guess that means the weak link is the processor.

Now trying 270x9.5 (2565MHz) with 1.4V

Stable for 2 minutes OCCT so far







.

edit: temps are in the mid 60s (max of 67 so far), but my cpu fan isn't spinning anywhere close to top speed.
BIOS is set so that it should be max speed anywhere over 45 degrees.

edit: 270x11 does not post, but 270x10 is currently in windows on 1.45V, about to start up OCCT.


----------



## Cyrious

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Anyway, 270FSB is stable with a 7.5 multiplier, but not with an x11. I guess that means the weak link is the processor.

Now trying 270x9.5 (2565MHz) with 1.4V

Stable for 2 minutes OCCT so far







.

edit: temps are in the mid 60s (max of 67 so far), but my cpu fan isn't spinning anywhere close to top speed.
BIOS is set so that it should be max speed anywhere over 45 degrees.

edit: 270x11 does not post, but 270x10 is currently in windows on 1.45V, about to start up OCCT.


good luck on that man

I managed to get my paws on another s939 dual core, same as before. Now all i need to do is get an appropriate board for it, and my seedbox will have a considerable upgrade added to it, as well as enabling me to fold on it as well


----------



## ny_driver

Hey guys!

Just popped in to say "HI", as it has been awhile since I have posted here or even talked to anyone on Steam or anything.

I've been extremely busy trying to get my 40 hours in, up here in Maine, and still have a short weekend at home. It's 400 miles each way which makes it tough. I'm making good money though, so I don't mind....I'm a soldier.

Also wanted to let you all know that I still have a 939 rig running daily. Actually my mom does, but I built it and maintain it. It's a Neo2 platinum and a 3700+. I personally have another neo2 and a some other 939 board(edit: tyan tomcat) and a single channel 170 and a 3500+, but was unable to get POST on either last time I tried....like the run-on sentence?

I certainly am enjoying my AM3 build.....I bought a 1090T and it arrived at my house yesterday. Can't wait to get home and freeze that puppy. It should run ~-15 Celsius I bet with my cooler. Trying for 5GHz.....only reached 4.76 so far with my 965BE.

I'll always remember this club and stop in occasionally at least.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

ny_d, thanks for popping in! We'll always be here (I hope







), and your place at the table will always be available to you.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Grrrrr

My chip will do 4.0GHz Small FFT's stable. I need a higher NB though to stabilize it (9x). The problem is that I lack CPU-NB voltage adjustment, so I'm completely unstable doing anything but Small FFT's.

Also, I can stabilize DDR2-1250 with all 8GB. But that's at near stock speeds on the CPU, since my NB has to stay so low...because I lack CPU-NB voltage.

Gahhh!!!!!

If anybody would like to trade me boards (I know this is 939, but some of you have AM2+ and AM3 boards), I have a trade thread up in the Wanted section.


----------



## ny_driver

Do you think it would be an upgrade to go from the 3700+ to a single channel memory Opty 170? Most of you know what I mean because you remember me damaging my 170 delidding it ignorantly.









EDIT: always start with the best motherboard even if you have to build slower.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Do you think it would be an upgrade to go from the 3700+ to a single channel memory Opty 170? Most of you know what I mean because you remember me damaging my 170 delidding it ignorantly.










If the 170 works, I think it would be worthy sacrifice to have a higher clock and two cores over dual channel memory.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


If the 170 works, I think it would be worthy sacrifice to have a higher clock and two cores over dual channel memory.


I agree with pio. I can't seem to remember what the actual performance hit was in going from dual- to single-channel memory. I'm inclined to believe you get more performance with two processors over one.


----------



## ny_driver

Thanks.....I will upgrade Mom this weekend....although she is about to get a nice AM3/either 7 or tinyXP upgradre for Christmas.


----------



## Cyrious

greetings from my secondary folding computer! yes its S939, and it runs great for being a HP in a previous life (ewww). The board has all the goodies one could possibly need for folding, including a PCI-E x16 slot, sata ports, etc etc. The processor is the twin of the other 3800+ dualie i have, although one core runs hotter than the other for some reason even after re-greasing it. Currently prime95ing it, core 0 peaks at 57C, core 1 peaks at 52C; core 0 avg is about 55C, core 1 is 50. Tis a little odd in my opinion.

Either way, in a few minutes im going to undervolt and pray i am just as lucky as i was with the previous AMD dualie. Wish me luck!

PS: now i need to dig up the funds for another GT 240 and a GTS 450 so both my folding computers are running GPU on a 240 and SMP, and my desktop can double again its output with the 450


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cyrious*


greetings from my secondary folding computer! yes its S939, and it runs great for being a HP in a previous life (ewww). The board has all the goodies one could possibly need for folding, including a PCI-E x16 slot, sata ports, etc etc. The processor is the twin of the other 3800+ dualie i have, although one core runs hotter than the other for some reason even after re-greasing it. Currently prime95ing it, core 0 peaks at 57C, core 1 peaks at 52C; core 0 avg is about 55C, core 1 is 50. Tis a little odd in my opinion.

Either way, in a few minutes im going to undervolt and pray i am just as lucky as i was with the previous AMD dualie. Wish me luck!

PS: now i need to dig up the funds for another GT 240 and a GTS 450 so both my folding computers are running GPU on a 240 and SMP, and my desktop can double again its output with the 450










Those temperature offsets are perfectly normal. My Opteron was off by about 8*C under load. It's considered normal up to a 10*C delta between cores.


----------



## Cyrious

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Those temperature offsets are perfectly normal. My Opteron was off by about 8*C under load. It's considered normal up to a 10*C delta between cores.


and when it was at idle did that difference remain or did it go away? Because when it idles both cores hold at about 34-35C.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cyrious*


and when it was at idle did that difference remain or did it go away? Because when it idles both cores hold at about 34-35C.


At idle, the temperatures would be closer, sure.

The problem is that even with an absolute PERFECT application of TIM on there, you still have irregularities between the IHS and the cores themselves. It's just the way these chips are honestly. My dad's Q6600 is the same way. Core loads on his are 70/65/65/62 or something like that. It's just because of the cores not having perfect contact to the underside of the IHS.


----------



## Cyrious

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


At idle, the temperatures would be closer, sure.

The problem is that even with an absolute PERFECT application of TIM on there, you still have irregularities between the IHS and the cores themselves. It's just the way these chips are honestly. My dad's Q6600 is the same way. Core loads on his are 70/65/65/62 or something like that. It's just because of the cores not having perfect contact to the underside of the IHS.


Ah, make sense. Still cooking with prime95, at 1.3V (from 1.35v), things are still working quite nicely.
core0 51-52C
core1 46-48C


----------



## Blitz6804

And even when you decapitate, they do not match. They come VERY close, but do not match.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Cyrious, run that chip NAKED. That will even out the core temps, I bet.









(Well, I speak from experience, of course.







)


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Cyrious, run that chip NAKED. That will even out the core temps, I bet.









(Well, I speak from experience, of course.







)


You just like getting anything you can naked







.

This is why I haven't made a road trip to meet you yet







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


You just like getting anything you can naked







.


As my man OG Loc would say, "Straight!"

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


This is why I haven't made a road trip to meet you yet







.


WAT.


----------



## Cyrious

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Cyrious, run that chip NAKED. That will even out the core temps, I bet.









(Well, I speak from experience, of course.







)


i aint risking the destruction of a perfectly good processor, as nice as it may be to run without the IHS. the last time i took the IHS off a processor, it was a prescott, and i completely mangled the package it was on.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


You just like getting anything you can naked







.

This is why I haven't made a road trip to meet you yet







.


i lold


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cyrious*


i aint risking the destruction of a perfectly good processor, as nice as it may be to run without the IHS. the last time i took the IHS off a processor, it was a prescott, and i completely mangled the package it was on.


Cyrious, you just need to level up on your chip-stripping mojo to the level of txtmstr-mo-joe.


----------



## Cyrious

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Cyrious, you just need to level up on your chip-stripping mojo to the level of txtmstr-mo-joe.

















tips so i can practice on my pile of P4 processors?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Tip# 1: Have a very sharp blade.
Tip# 2: Go SLOW, especially when you're unfamiliar with the chip.
Tip# 3: Find some pictures of what a naked chip that's the same type as you're decapitating so you'll have a good idea where NOT to put that sharp blade of yours.








Tip# 4: Don't cut yourself.








Tip# 5: Again, just go slow and steady.

That's about it, really.







I've cut the heads off so many Denmarks it's a fairly familiar and easy process for me now. I won't tell you how quickly I can do it with a really sharp blade (in case you might want to beat my time and possibly damage your chip), but it's a lot faster than the twenty-some minutes I used to take when I did my first.


----------



## Cyrious

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Tip# 1: Have a very sharp blade.
Tip# 2: Go SLOW, especially when you're unfamiliar with the chip.
Tip# 3: Find some pictures of what a naked chip that's the same type as you're decapitating so you'll have a good idea where NOT to put that sharp blade of yours.








Tip# 4: Don't cut yourself.








Tip# 5: Again, just go slow and steady.

That's about it, really.







I've cut the heads off so many Denmarks it's a fairly familiar and easy process for me now. I won't tell you how quickly I can do it with a really sharp blade (in case you might want to beat my time and possibly damage your chip), but it's a lot faster than the twenty-some minutes I used to take when I did my first.










by sharp blade you mean exacto knife right? i snapped the tip off my last one and i think the blade is dull.







Oh well.

update: roasting at 1.2v, still clean although i just dropped it there.


----------



## Blitz6804

#6: Do it on a full night sleep. Not after being up the past 36 hours.
#7: Eat properly, not merely have a pot of coffee and a bagel.

That is how I killed mine.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cyrious*


by sharp blade you mean exacto knife right? i snapped the tip off my last one and i think the blade is dull.







Oh well.


I don't like the XActo-type blades for precisely that reason. I use plain old box-cutters.

Like so:










Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


#6: Do it on a full night sleep. Not after being up the past 36 hours.
#7: Eat properly, not merely have a pot of coffee and a bagel.

That is how I killed mine.


Good additions, barrister Blitz.

You gotta have steady hands.







Coffee or hunger-induced shakes are not desirable.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I didn't know joe was into body art







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I didn't know joe was into body art







.










That wasn't ME, gooby!









I'm MUCH bigger than that guy. Like, defensive lineman-big! ROFL


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*









That wasn't ME, gooby!









I'm MUCH bigger than that guy. Like, defensive lineman-big! ROFL


I would certainly hope so, since you do have to wrestle gorillas at work everyday







.


----------



## Cyrious

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


#6: Do it on a full night sleep. Not after being up the past 36 hours.
#7: Eat properly, not merely have a pot of coffee and a bagel.

That is how I killed mine.


#6: i crash at 10pm every night, wake up at about 5:20 so i can catch the bus, doze on the bus and in my spanish II class (about 2 hours right there) so that aint a problem
#7: I get plenty of food, although my school lunches are steadily getting smaller while the prices remain the same. And yet i wonder why they saw fit to spend $700,000 on smartboards and new computers.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I would certainly hope so, since you do have to wrestle gorillas at work everyday







.


WAT.









They depend on me (well, to some degree) to eat. They LOVE me.


----------



## Cyrious

and this thread is why i love OCN.

CPU Vcore @ 1.15V, hasnt conked out on me yet
Core temps are now a very delicious 43C/39C


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


WAT.









*They* depend on me (well, to some degree) to *eat*. They LOVE *me*.










Sounds to me like you whip out the fire hose for them girly gorillas







. It's okay joe, no shame in it. I'd do the same if I worked at the zoo







.


----------



## Cyrious

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Sounds to me like you whip out the fire hose for them girly gorillas







. It's okay joe, no shame in it. I'd do the same if I worked at the zoo







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Fire hose?

Actually, I do work with our facility's fire extinguisher vendor as well, so...

Hmm... I wonder if pio's got a spy camera at my office... or here in my apartment...

Ahem.

In the coming weeks, I'll be showing y'all something S939. It's exciting to me, this "secret project" *wink wink I'm working on, but hopefully we can learn something new that's S939-related.

Stay tuned for that.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Fire hose?

Actually, I do work with our facility's fire extinguisher vendor as well, so...

Hmm... I wonder if pio's got a spy camera at my office... or here in my apartment...

Ahem.

In the coming weeks, I'll be showing y'all something S939. It's exciting to me, this "secret project" *wink wink I'm working on, but hopefully we can learn something new that's S939-related.

Stay tuned for that.


































As for the update, I look forward to drooling as usual. I still miss my Opty rig, I wish I coulda kept her







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


As for the update, I look forward to drooling as usual. I still miss my Opty rig, I wish I coulda kept her







.


Why didn't you? Had to use her to fund the next rig?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Why didn't you? Had to use her to fund the next rig?


Yeah, it was either run 939 for the rest of my computing life, or move onto AM2+ / AM3. My original plan WAS to keep the Opty rig, but when my Gigabyte board caught fire, I had no other choice to fund a new board, new RAM and stuff. I ended up buying drives, GPU, and a new case too. Darn that upgrade fever!!!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Yeah, it was either run 939 for the rest of my computing life, or move onto AM2+ / AM3. My original plan WAS to keep the Opty rig, but when my Gigabyte board caught fire, I had no other choice to fund a new board, new RAM and stuff. I ended up buying drives, GPU, and a new case too. Darn that upgrade fever!!!










Don't I know that.

I'm not EVEN looking to get onto the Bulldozer/Fusion train when it rolls out. I'm staying with AM3 until at least a year, or two years ideally, after Bulldozer's out.

Plus right now my router just decided to give me headaches, so shortly I'll be heading out to get a replacement. (Any recommendations for one? I'm open to sensible suggestions under $100.00 - $150.00.







)

I'm trying to ignore my wallet's screams right now...


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Fire hose?

Actually, I do work with our facility's fire extinguisher vendor as well, so...

Hmm... I wonder if pio's got a spy camera at my office... or here in my apartment...

Ahem.

In the coming weeks, I'll be showing y'all something S939. It's exciting to me, this "secret project" *wink wink I'm working on, but hopefully we can learn something new that's S939-related.

Stay tuned for that.










Well ain't that something...... I'm in charge of the fire safety testing of the sprinkler system and stuff at my work.

Got a 13lb halon unit from the last time we had to do our extinguisher certifications. It was one that had gone past the 12 year mark so it coudn't be used anymore but it's still fully charged and ready to go. 
Have it in here just in case.....


----------



## Blitz6804

My router can be had for as cheap as $65. It is quite capable for many things with an easy to navigate GUI. My problems with it are that Wake on WAN does not work with Linksys firmware (and Linksys refuses to add the feature) and that you cannot simultaneously port forward one port to more than one rig. Putting on DD-WRT firmware gets rid of both issues. However, when I had DD-WRT on there, and I tried to change from WEP to WPA2, the router deleted itself. When I got the replacement, I left the Linksys firmware alone, and WPA2 works fine.


----------



## Kryton

I had a D-Link router that did OK until it started smoking one day while on the web. 
Obviously it's toast BUT the thing still powers on and tries to work.

Using a Zoom ADSL X6 router/modem now since I have DSL and was using a wireless weblink to the ISP at the time the D-Link was in use.


----------



## Cyrious

well, gents, my second folder is online, running SMP. Core voltage was fine even at the lowest setting, but i kept it up at 1.15V just in case, and the temp difference is negligible between the two voltages.

Now, to get some GPUs for folding..............


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cyrious*


well, gents, my second folder is online, running SMP. Core voltage was fine even at the lowest setting, but i kept it up at 1.15V just in case, and the temp difference is negligible between the two voltages.

Now, to get some GPUs for folding..............


GJ, Cyrious!

Oh, and yeah, Kryton: You're probably the only one amongst us here who probably NEEDS a fire extinguisher by his computer desk at all times.


----------



## Cyrious

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


GJ, Cyrious!

Oh, and yeah, Kryton: You're probably the only one amongst us here who probably NEEDS a fire extinguisher by his computer desk at all times.

















actually that spectacular fireball from a detonating power supply of mine would like to have a word with you. the PSu couldnt withstand the strain of running a folding rig for 24/7 any more and it went out with a bang. Fortunately, nothing was damaged, and after replacing the PSU i fired right back up and got back to it.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cyrious*


actually that spectacular fireball from a detonating power supply of mine would like to have a word with you. the PSu couldnt withstand the strain of running a folding rig for 24/7 any more and it went out with a bang. Fortunately, nothing was damaged, and after replacing the PSU i fired right back up and got back to it.


One of our admins on the home site (Mr. Scott) had a PSU explode and literally catch his desk on fire - Took most of the machine with it of course. 
He says the desk has burn marks and everything to go with it but he still uses it - Must have got it under control quick enough. Believe he said it was from an older PSU he was forced to use until the new one he'd ordered came in BUT the PSU didn't make it for that long.


----------



## Cyrious

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


One of our admins on the home site (Mr. Scott) had a PSU explode and literally catch his desk on fire - Took most of the machine with it of course. 
He says the desk has burn marks and everything to go with it but he still uses it - Must have got it under control quick enough. Believe he said it was from an older PSU he was forced to use until the new one he'd ordered came in BUT the PSU didn't make it for that long.


heh. Couple weeks back in school, was trying to get a dual s370 Compaq server running again. Put in the second power supply, immediately started smelling of dying parts. At the same time, another kid blew up the machine he was trying to work on (for the first time, most of these guys are so green when it comes to working with computers it aint funny), so i thought i was smelling the destruction of his computer. I gave the second PSU juice again, looked in the back gratings to try and identify the smell, and was rewarded with the 12v transformer exploding as 120v of juice shot through it. It was bright, it was loud as hell, and i had ringing ears for the rest of the day.

you aint a computer nerd unless you have had a power supply die explosively on you, and when you least expect it.


----------



## nategr8ns

So 270x9.5 was not stable enough for gaming. It locked up mid-game, and then wouldn't boot far enough to get me to BIOS (required 3 reboots here) and lastly if locked up inside bios. I had only tested it with an hour of OCCT 
I'm now running 220x11 with 1.35V (currently at 1.328V 50% load), so same CPU clock as 270x9.5, but lower FSB.
I really want to try for 300 FSB. What's the best way to stress that? OCCT (small/med/large)?

I am so glad none of my old OEM psus have died on me. They just stopped working from being left in my basement for years.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


So 270x9.5 was not stable enough for gaming. It locked up mid-game, and then wouldn't boot far enough to get me to BIOS (required 3 reboots here) and lastly if locked up inside bios. I had only tested it with an hour of OCCT 
I'm now running 220x11 with 1.35V (currently at 1.328V 50% load), so same CPU clock as 270x9.5, but lower FSB.
*I really want to try for 300 FSB. What's the best way to stress that? OCCT (small/med/large)*?

I am so glad none of my old OEM psus have died on me. They just stopped working from being left in my basement for years.


nate, when I test for a motherboard's max reference clock potential, I always drop down the CPU multiplier to something really low (as low as the BIOS will allow) and LDT/HT multiplier (to 1x or 2x at most) as well as go with the highest RAM divider (i.e., that which slows down the RAM the most), then just do a small FFT run of OCCT/Prime/Orthos for maybe 15-30 minutes at most.

With the CPU, HT, and RAM clocks set far below their potential maximums, only the motherboard's capability to sustain its reference clock speed is stressed.









That's how I've always done it. Anybody have other ideas/suggestions?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


nate, when I test for a motherboard's max reference clock potential, I always drop down the CPU multiplier to something really low (as low as the BIOS will allow) and LDT/HT multiplier (to 1x or 2x at most) as well as go with the highest RAM divider (i.e., that which slows down the RAM the most), then just do a small FFT run of OCCT/Prime/Orthos for maybe 15-30 minutes at most.

With the CPU, HT, and RAM clocks set far below their potential maximums, only the motherboard's capability to sustain its reference clock speed is stressed.









That's how I've always done it. Anybody have other ideas/suggestions?


 I've pretty much done the same as you, with the exception that when I reach my desired ref. clk. I'll let P95 blend run for at least an hour. That might be a little bit of overkill, but it hasn't failed me yet. Although, I haven't used the ref. clk. to achieve a 24/7 OC since my 939 rigs.







.

I haven't even bothered OCing this i7 --too busy. Not that it needs it anyway.

Hey Joe, (where you goin with that gun in your hand) I recall some word about a competition a few weeks back --did I miss it?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I've pretty much done the same as you, with the exception that when I reach my desired ref. clk. I'll let P95 blend run for at least an hour. That might be a little bit of overkill, but it hasn't failed me yet. Although, I haven't used the ref. clk. to achieve a 24/7 OC since my 939 rigs.







.


Nah, that's a good technique. I think when it comes to stability testing, most people want a quick and dirty way to test for it. In my opinion, though, it's better to do a more thorough job with it compared to finding out later that the system wasn't as stable as I thought it was.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


I haven't even bothered OCing this i7 --too busy. Not that it needs it anyway.


Haha, true, that.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Hey Joe, (where you goin with that gun in your hand) I recall some word about a competition a few weeks back --did I miss it?


No, you haven't missed it. The truth is I had an interesting idea for a contest, but we didn't have a big enough number of possible contestants to do it. I should have expected that, I guess, given the age of S939.







But I've got another idea that is still doable, hopefully.

I think I'll be contacting our Club officers (and maybe ex-officers too) to have a bit of a pow-wow about this contest soon.







It's a simple-enough concept for a contest, so hopefully we can have a bit of fun with it.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I'm looking forward to your ideas


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I'm looking forward to your ideas










I'll just say this for now: Club veterans may recognize the format of the contest idea I've got.







But it was a very successful contest, back when we first ran it.










(If you know what I'm talking about, just keep it under your hats for now, eh?







If not, you may murmur in excited anticipation.







)


----------



## Kryton

Can't wait to see what you come up with.


----------



## nategr8ns

murmurmurmurmurmurmurmur
(maybe)


----------



## theCanadian

So what ever happened with that list of people still running 939? What was it even for?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Nah, that's a good technique. I think when it comes to stability testing, most people want a quick and dirty way to test for it. In my opinion, though, it's better to do a more thorough job with it compared to finding out later that the system wasn't as stable as I thought it was.










 Yeah I learned with AM3 that rigorous stress testing is a must. It only took 3 days to get my memory OC sorted









Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


No, you haven't missed it. The truth is I had an interesting idea for a contest, but we didn't have a big enough number of possible contestants to do it. I should have expected that, I guess, given the age of S939.







But I've got another idea that is still doable, hopefully.

I think I'll be contacting our Club officers (and maybe ex-officers too) to have a bit of a pow-wow about this contest soon.







It's a simple-enough concept for a contest, so hopefully we can have a bit of fun with it.










 Definitely keep me posted. I try to pop in here once in a while but the thread, for the most part, seems to be dwindling. Not to mention, I don't have a lot of time lately between working, looking for work, school and taking care of the kids. Most days I feel like I've been rode hard and put away wet and have little to show for it.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 
So what ever happened with that list of people still running 939? What was it even for?

theCanadian, we'll be announcing something regarding that soon. (We actually addressed this question a few posts up, albeit in a bit of an evasive manner.







) We WILL have a S939 Club contest, though. I'll just need to have a few conversations with the Club officers to hammer out the details.

Sorry to leave y'all hanging.







My bad completely.


----------



## ny_driver

Can we have a Thuban contest, too?









http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1480579









#87 off the wafer this time. CCBBE CB 1021EPMW. Just installed last night.

I will get to 5GHz with some tinkering on this bad boy.









EDIT: This picture shows how to prevent condensation problems when freezing a cpu.


----------



## eternaldj

I still use my 939.. it just doesn't want to die. Wonderful processor, it still runs most things at high settings


----------



## 420Assassin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
theCanadian, we'll be announcing something regarding that soon. (We actually addressed this question a few posts up, albeit in a bit of an evasive manner.







) We WILL have a S939 Club contest, though. I'll just need to have a few conversations with the Club officers to hammer out the details.

Sorry to leave y'all hanging.







My bad completely.

I'm running a 939 right now as my main rig also my sig rig







love the thing DFI LanParty Mobo, some OCZ ram dual core 3800+

killer rig for its time


----------



## nategr8ns

Guys, I just bought a second 2GB set of GSkill 500HZ ram. Super excited to get it.
Next step is finding a dual core processor.


----------



## Pir

Just revived my old 939 rig with scraps and pieces from my old builds. It's running quite nicely and overclocks pretty decent. Still not done but so far i managed 2.7 Ghz.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1480840


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Ooh, nice Sandy there, Pir!

I'll add you to our roster later. I'm actually on my way out for a two-hour drive to my parents' house.









ny_d: Sweet insulated set-up there!









420assassin, eternaldj: Semper Fi, S939!


----------



## Pir

Thanks txtmsrtjoe, Going to try for 3 Ghz, Temps are still below 40c core so i have alot of headroom left. Right now anything above 2.8 tends to be unstable but i'll work that out eventually.


----------



## 420Assassin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Guys, I just bought a second 2GB set of GSkill 500HZ ram. Super excited to get it.
Next step is finding a dual core processor.


lucky u ive been looking for a 2gb set of ram roiund the ddr500 speed.. but only seen few on ebay for like $100


----------



## nategr8ns

$100???
I bought my first 2GB 500MHz set for $60 here, and I just bought the matching set (I was super happy I decided to check ebay while this auction was still up, these sticks are so rare) for $45 shipped.
Still have to send payment...


----------



## 420Assassin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


$100???
I bought my first 2GB 500MHz set for $60 here, and I just bought the matching set (I was super happy I decided to check ebay while this auction was still up, these sticks are so rare) for $45 shipped.
Still have to send payment...


may getin trouble for this but if u ever wanna sell them PLZ msg me i would love to get finish off this rig.. ram only thing im missing really after that this will be the ultimate 939 rig


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Club officers and ex-officers (who happen to see this), please PM me your email addresses ASAP so we can discuss our next contest.









Thank you.


----------



## nategr8ns

No thanks, I finally decided to just put a bit more money into my rig to hold me off until I can afford an i3/5/7 computer. Just need a dual core now.
I'm still window shopping for new components, though







.


----------



## Kryton

Watches thread in anticipation of contest info....


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
theCanadian, we'll be announcing something regarding that soon. (We actually addressed this question a few posts up, albeit in a bit of an evasive manner.







) We WILL have a S939 Club contest, though. I'll just need to have a few conversations with the Club officers to hammer out the details.

Sorry to leave y'all hanging.







My bad completely.

You should know that though my rig is together and functional, and I do use it when I have access to it, I do not anticipate having access to it save for one day over the week of the thanksgiving holiday. After that, the next time I'm home could be months away.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

theCanadian: Make sure you take a camera with you when you go visit your S939 machine.










I'll do my best to get the rest of our Club officers together and have this contest all hammered out by the middle of next week.

Till then, neighborinos...


----------



## Pir

Sorry for jumping in like this but to what competition are you guys referring about?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pir* 
Sorry for jumping in like this but to what competition are you guys referring about?

Pir, we'll be having a Club-exclusive contest shortly.







Only S939 Club members can join.









We've had these in the past, and it's been forever since we've had one. I always hope that these contests keep the group together and keep our appreciation for S939 alive.









There will be a prize on offer, so hopefully your S939 rig will be up to the challenge.









I'll just say this: To enter, you just need to be a member of this Club and to have a S939 machine currently running.


----------



## Pir

Please sign me up for your illustrous group if possible. Will hold on to my 939 for now but in the near future she'll retire as a gaming rig for my youngest son. Just need to find a decent GPU for it on the cheap.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pir* 
Please sign me up for your illustrous group if possible. Will hold on to my 939 for now but in the near future she'll retire as a gaming rig for my youngest son. Just need to find a decent GPU for it on the cheap.

Pir, you are IN.







Thanks for joining!


----------



## Blitz6804

Pir: I do not know how much "kick" you want, but I could find an HD 4650 for $62 after MIR, and a HD 4670 for $107 after MIR. Either of these would certainly be an improvement over the 7600 GT, but I do not know if they are within where you were willing to spend.

Oh! And a small warning: as long as you have that nForce3 motherboard, you will not be able to upgrade to a dual-core CPU if you have an ATi GPU in Windows Vista. nVidia's AGP driver kills an ATi card if you have a dual core CPU. (I notice you have a single now, but it bares mentioning.) XP works fine with a dual and an ATi.


----------



## Cyrious

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Pir, you are IN.







Thanks for joining!










can i get in or am i screwed?


----------



## Blitz6804

I have you on my pending list Cyrious. Seriously... I have to get around to updating the offsite in the near future; I am now 9 months past due. (Oy vey.)


----------



## pioneerisloud

I know this isn't 939 related, but a lot of you guys told me it COULDN'T be done. Well friends, I share with you.....THIS LINK!

Not shown, my NB is at 2475MHz.

I passed 8 hours Prime95 forcing 7GB of RAM usage last night with 1.58v. The only thing I have done is lowered my vcore since then, trying to see how low I can go with 3.7 now.


----------



## Tator Tot

Sheesh Pio







grabbin every last giglehurtz out of that board that you can


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Sheesh Pio







grabbin every last giglehurtz out of that board that you can










Of course.....I don't overclock any other way







. You guys should all remember my Opteron runs, lol.

My main thing was the RAM speed. I was told I'd NEVER pass DDR2-920 or so with 8GB. Well guess what.....I passed 920 and then some







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Nice work pio now lets see all the screen shots together for the whole picture. I have no problem admitting I was one who said you will not get your ram spd much higher than 1010-1020 while using 8GB of DDR2-1066/PC8500.

You my friend just love living on the edge of danger w/regards to the safety of you cpu's. I hope you don't kill your screaming little chip w/all those volts.









What kind of Everest reads to you get btw?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Nice work pio now lets see all the screen shots together for the whole picture. I have no problem admitting I was one who said you will not get your ram spd much higher than 1010-1020 while using 8GB of DDR2-1066/PC8500.

You my friend just love living on the edge of danger w/regards to the safety of you cpu's. I hope you don't kill your screaming little chip w/all those volts.









What kind of Everest reads to you get btw?


Everest doesn't really show it. But I do get 44.5ms latency in Everest. Maxxmem shows my speeds better since its multi threaded.

I'll have stability proof, and memory benchmarks as soon as its proven stable. I passed 8 hours with 1.58v....testing 1.53v now. I'm not worried about the voltage too much. With 1.65v, I'm still under 55*C load







. 1.58v I was loading at 48*C.

But if there's anything that you guys would like to see me run, now would be the time. I plan to post stability proof, Maxmemm + Everest memory. I could show some 3DMark scores too if needed. Anything else you guys want to see, just let me know.

Again, I know this isn't 939 related. But it doesn't hurt to share it here I don't think







.


----------



## theCanadian

Congrats on the OC, pio!

As for the camera... I guess I'll borrow my dad's Canon Rebel.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cyrious*


can i get in or am i screwed?


Cyrious, I can't seem to find your CPU-Z link.







Mind posting it in the thread again? I'll put you on our roster ASAP.


----------



## Blitz6804

Here you go Joe.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Here you go Joe.


Blitz, thank you very much, good sir.

Cyrious, you are IN.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well guys, all I can release at this point is a teaser.....the clocks in my sig aren't up to date. They won't be till I pass stable.

But Tator Tot knows what I'm workin with







.


----------



## Cyrious

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Here you go Joe.


thanks man +1 rep

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Blitz, thank you very much, good sir.

Cyrious, you are IN.










SWEET!


----------



## KingFrizzy

Man I just noticed this thread,

I still have my s939 Comp Running, its bsod'ing hard at the moment hoping once i get the 9800 GT in there and reinstall windows and a new HDD it will run for a friend of mine.

Specs are

Amd x2 4400 @ 2.2 Ghz
2 Gigs of Corsair DDR PC 3200
Nvidia 7800 GTX (originally has a 9800 GT on the way)
Gigabyte S939 SLI Nforce4 Motherboard (i think)
160 gig WD Caviar Black IDE HDD


----------



## Blitz6804

Flip us up a CPU-Z validation and you will be good to roll KingFrizzy.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Man guys......

What does it mean when your machine fails just ONE worker core at about 7.5 hours in? Machine was still running fine, and the other 3 workers were going along fine. More vcore? Less NB clock speed? I've NEVER had an overclock fail that far into testing before, so I'm stumped







.


----------



## Blitz6804

I have had one die 12.5 hours in. My guess is too much speed for present voltage. But just barely. Take 1 MHz on the HTT, and you should be good to roll.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


I have had one die 12.5 hours in. My guess is too much speed for present voltage. But just barely. Take 1 MHz on the HTT, and you should be good to roll.


I'll just bump the vcore then







.


----------



## Kryton

Good luck with it Pio. 
It could be a simple under load temp issue shutting down the core you're referring to but I know you've probrably been watching temps all along. 
Yes, a bump in volts just might do it.

OK - I'm gonna stir it up here in anticipation of the upcoming competition with some shots of runs I did in the past with rather high HT speeds for a Socket 939. Maybe I've posted these before or not but here they are anyway. All were done running the NuclearMC benchmark as you can see.

With these HT speeds going on, the fire extinguisher is DEFINITELY on standby.....


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Good luck with it Pio. 
It could be a simple under load temp issue shutting down the core you're referring to but I know you've probrably been watching temps all along. 
Yes, a bump in volts just might do it.

OK - I'm gonna stir it up here in anticipation of the upcoming competition with some shots of runs I did in the past with rather high HT speeds for a Socket 939. Maybe I've posted these before or not but here they are anyway. All were done running the NuclearMC benchmark as you can see.

With these HT speeds going on, the fire extinguisher is DEFINITELY on standby.....










1.6V on VCore?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?


----------



## Cyrious

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Good luck with it Pio. 
It could be a simple under load temp issue shutting down the core you're referring to but I know you've probrably been watching temps all along. 
Yes, a bump in volts just might do it.

OK - I'm gonna stir it up here in anticipation of the upcoming competition with some shots of runs I did in the past with rather high HT speeds for a Socket 939. Maybe I've posted these before or not but here they are anyway. All were done running the NuclearMC benchmark as you can see.

With these HT speeds going on, the fire extinguisher is DEFINITELY on standby.....










flames... flames everywhere!


----------



## N2Gaming

Ouch I'll have to humbly bow down to a master of disater. Those screen shots show me all I need to know because there is no way on earth I'll ever run those kinds of voltages.


----------



## nategr8ns

Kryton, you're crazy!
lol


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Man guys......

What does it mean when your machine fails just ONE worker core at about 7.5 hours in? Machine was still running fine, and the other 3 workers were going along fine. More vcore? Less NB clock speed? I've NEVER had an overclock fail that far into testing before, so I'm stumped







.


Could it have been a bad bit? Mebbe RAM flipped a couple 0s and 1s around... I wouldnt be too worried.

BTW, 1.6vcore? Thats it? Shoot son, my ES is 1.65vcore under load, 1.55idle.







Fun stuff


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*


BTW, 1.6vcore? Thats it? Shoot son, my ES is 1.65vcore under load, 1.55idle.







Fun stuff


You don't know me very well do you?








There's more than 1.6v's available and I'll use 'em.

When it comes to overclocking I don't discriminate based on Socket, chip core, model, OC'ability or anything else. 
Either it goes or it blows (Up).


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well, I still haven't wrestled her stable yet. Still failing Prime on one core after 7 hours







. I raised my vDIMM, and my vcore, and loosened timings a notch. Still no go. Hmmm.


----------



## Kryton

Perhaps redoing your TIM will help. 
I've ran into similar probs due to the TIM not being "Right" and it was causing a hotspot where the TIM wasn't thick enough.

Check that and see. I know it's failing after an extented run but still, coudn't hurt to do it.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Interesting tip, Kryton!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Perhaps redoing your TIM will help. 
I've ran into similar probs due to the TIM not being "Right" and it was causing a hotspot where the TIM wasn't thick enough.

Check that and see. I know it's failing after an extented run but still, coudn't hurt to do it.


It's not TIM, nor is it a temperature issue. I'm loading at 46*C with 1.55v currently. I very highly doubt that's the issue







.

I'm honestly thinking CPU-NB voltage at this point. I really didn't want to resort to K10Stat to make it stable, was hoping to get it stable WITHOUT software help. Oh well, if I have to, that just might be what I do.

Stay tuned guys....I WILL get what I'm shooting for







.


----------



## pioneerisloud

As promised....here's what I've been working on guys







. Finally wrestled her stable, gonna go for higher now!

*Stability Proof (10+ Hours of Prime95, forcing 7200MB Memory):*









*Memory Benchmarks (will be slightly different by the time I'm done):*









*Intel Burn Test to prove I can hang with the big quads:*
(For the record a Q9550 @ 3.8GHz scores 51 GFlops, i7's are around 50 @ 4.0)


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Nice on, pio!


----------



## N2Gaming

Now you can take that long awaited nap PIO that every one needs after stressing a PC. It's stressfull work man


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Now you can take that long awaited nap PIO that every one needs after stressing a PC. It's stressfull work man









Yeah, I just woke up from my "nap"







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Totally non-S939 related, but here's what I've been going bananas on lately:
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1492845

So far it's LinX stable, OCCT 1Hr stable only.

I don't think I can match pio's awesome achievements in RAM tuning, though.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Totally non-S939 related, but here's what I've been going bananas on lately:
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1492845

So far it's LinX stable, OCCT 1Hr stable only.

I don't think I can match pio's awesome achievements in RAM tuning, though.









Ahh, you can get that RAM higher







. Looks good tho. 4.0 on a Deneb







.


----------



## nategr8ns

I'm now running on 4GB of GSkill HZ 500mhz ram. Only way it could get better is if the serial numbers were all consecutive







.
Is it even worth trying to get these to run at 1T with four sticks? I'm currently on a 3700+ single core, but I will soon have an Opteron 170 I could try it on.


----------



## N2Gaming

Nice 4.0GHz txtmstrjoe.

Try it nate and let us know how it goes. Good luck.


----------



## nategr8ns

Well I BSOD'd today at 167mhz, 2T. OCCT memory test showed zero errors though. This was at 220x11=2420MHz.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

nate, which RAM kit is this?

EDIT: NVM. I just saw it in your sig.

BTW: "You know what" is shipping out on Monday.







TYVM for that, BTW.


----------



## nategr8ns

Awesome, good to hear it







.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Paging S939 Contest judges (you know who you are): Check your email, please.


----------



## Pir

Ah the contest, And just when last weekend my Gigabyte board decided to bite the dust. Time to rebuild my box with one of my spare boards


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Paging S939 Contest judges (you know who you are): Check your email, please.










Cool!
Time to get down to business.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Let's do this!


----------



## Cyrious

might i ask what this contest entails? Overclocking maybe?


----------



## N2Gaming

. Cool vid if you like ROCK. I'm ready to Rock & Roll


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cyrious*


might i ask what this contest entails? Overclocking maybe?


I'm sure the details will be posted as soon as the contest is live







.


----------



## SpykeZ

So what are you all using your 939 systems for these days? I was using mine as a back up gaming rig since it's still fully capable of playing just about anything with the 8800gt, but it's rare I ever use it so I put both my storage HD's in it since I don't want them running all the time so it's sorta turned into a file/game server


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*


So what are you all using your 939 systems for these days? I was using mine as a back up gaming rig since it's still fully capable of playing just about anything with the 8800gt, but it's rare I ever use it so I put both my storage HD's in it since I don't want them running all the time so it's sorta turned into a file/game server


If I still had mine, I would have had 2x HTPC builds at low clocks and voltages with dual cores, and a file server build (again low clocks and voltages).

A backup gamer is also a good use, since they're still solid performers in most games. As long as its got a healthy overclock







.


----------



## SpykeZ

Ya mine is running like 2.65 on the OC, it was 2.75 but I dropped it slightly for better temps. It only has a zalman cooler on it afterall.

I thought it was amazingly fine as far as performance was going then I bought a 5850 cause they were selling like hotcakes before the price hike (got it for like 200 when they first popped up) and i popped it in, not a single FPS incrase from going from my 8800GT to my 5850, at that point I cried a little and was like awo







it's time to retire ya ole lad

but!! cause I love it so much, it still sits next to me and gets to stay in the lian li pc-v1000


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*


Ya mine is running like 2.65 on the OC, it was 2.75 but I dropped it slightly for better temps. It only has a zalman cooler on it afterall.

I thought it was amazingly fine as far as performance was going then I bought a 5850 cause they were selling like hotcakes before the price hike (got it for like 200 when they first popped up) and i popped it in, not a single FPS incrase from going from my 8800GT to my 5850, at that point I cried a little and was like awo







it's time to retire ya ole lad


Yeah, I know how that one goes. My old Opty at 3.0GHz and even 3.1GHz, showed no gaming increases with 8800GT, 9600GT, 4850, or even 8800GT / 9600GT SLI setups. Nothing I could do would squeeze out any more real gaming performance. So I sadly got rid of her to fund the sig rig you see today.

I still really miss that setup. I would have attempted to steal the #1 spot in the world for CPUz validations this winter too (for Opteron 165's).


----------



## Cyrious

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*


So what are you all using your 939 systems for these days? I was using mine as a back up gaming rig since it's still fully capable of playing just about anything with the 8800gt, but it's rare I ever use it so I put both my storage HD's in it since I don't want them running all the time so it's sorta turned into a file/game server


both of mine are folding. Im still lacking a PCI-E GPU in each one thats worth folding on, so they really dont reel in that much in the way of points. i was thinking about getting another GT 240 and a GTS 450, put the 450 in my main and both 240s in each folding rig, and then let them cook. 5000ppd per machine, 11k from my desktop, 21k a day, YES PLEASE.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cyrious*


both of mine are folding. Im still lacking a PCI-E GPU in each one thats worth folding on, so they really dont reel in that much in the way of points. i was thinking about getting another GT 240 and a GTS 450, put the 450 in my main and both 240s in each folding rig, and then let them cook. 5000ppd per machine, 11k from my desktop, 21k a day, YES PLEASE.


Sell the 240's, grab GTS450's or GTX460's. The 460's are currently the best bang per buck farming GPU's right now. I've seen the 768MB models go for around $120 each or so with a good deal every now and then.

If I was doing a farm, that's what I'd pick up.


----------



## Cyrious

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Sell the 240's, grab GTS450's or GTX460's. The 460's are currently the best bang per buck farming GPU's right now. I've seen the 768MB models go for around $120 each or so with a good deal every now and then.

If I was doing a farm, that's what I'd pick up.


im not paying the power bill, and a pair of 240s is pushing it enough as it is. Also, if i get a pair of 460s, i also have to get a new power supply and case for each machine as well. At which point i would have spent enough money to have upgraded my desktop to a i5 system.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*


Ya mine is running like 2.65 on the OC, it was 2.75 but I dropped it slightly for better temps. It only has a zalman cooler on it afterall.

I thought it was amazingly fine as far as performance was going then I bought a 5850 cause they were selling like hotcakes before the price hike (got it for like 200 when they first popped up) and i popped it in, not a single FPS incrase from going from my 8800GT to my 5850, at that point I cried a little and was like awo







it's time to retire ya ole lad

*but!! cause I love it so much, it still sits next to me and gets to stay in the lian li pc-v1000*










Good lad!

Before my (hitherto) last S939 machine broke its primary SATA controller, I had mine in a PC-V1000B as well! I took that DFI machine out, though, and put in my first AM3 rig in the PC-V1000B instead.

Very soon, though, I'll (hopefully) have another S939 machine living and breathing. It'll reside in my TJ09B/W, where my primary system used to be (A8N32-SLI Deluxe-based; I recently sold that motherboard.







).

As far as the contest goes, the judging panel is currently finalizing the format. Or formats.









WAT.


----------



## SpykeZ

Ugh I would love to have my sig rig in it but cable management would be too hard since my pc power & cooling's cables are like 2 feet long each lol. Maybe if I can manage to get a front 5.25 bay cooler I'll see about it. But then my 939 would have to go in my 800D which...just seems like a waste lol.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Y'all might wanna see this.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Y'all might wanna see this.









That's not the official post







. That was just to get us a little more attention before our contest goes up. That way we can hopefully have a few last people register in the club for the contest







.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Sorry for double post:
spiderm0nkey has yet to be added to the roster. This was the best link I could find. You haven't yet submitted a CPuz validation, but I do believe you should qualify as a 939 Nostalgic member.

*(Note to spiderm0nkey):*
If you want to view all your posts in this thread, just go to the AMD General section, and click on the "Replies" button (24,xxx number currently). Then just search for your name, shows all the replies you've put into this thread.


----------



## Blitz6804

Pio: As the GT 240 can be as cheap as $40 and puts out 5000 PPD with a mild OC and only 75 W, I would posit they are the 'best bang for the buck.' Just my 2Â¢.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Pio: As the GT 240 can be as cheap as $40 and puts out 5000 PPD with a mild OC and only 75 W, I would posit they are the 'best bang for the buck.' Just my 2Â¢.

Well, that is very true. And that's as much PPD as my entire RIG puts out as is. But the GTX460 768's put out nearly 15k PPD, and can be had as cheap as $110 (I've seen a sale recently for that price). The GTS 450 is okay, but with bigger WU's they struggle to put out 8-9k.


----------



## pioneerisloud

If anybody still has a Socket 939 rig running, and is a member on the roster of the 939 club by the date the contest starts, you are more than welcome to join!

Click here for the rules, formatting, and judging information. All submissions must be put into that thread.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

A short report on my CFX3200-DR's resurrection:

Last night, before hitting the hay, I finished all the vital hookups to the motherboard and attempted a first POST. Success! One happy beep, hit DEL, and I'm in the BIOS.









Hiccup #1: The board didn't detect my single HDD.









I went through my BIOS options (it has been forever since I'd fired this board up, and I swapped CMOS batteries as well), looking for anything that might need to be enabled for the HDD to be detected. Since this was the ULI primary SATA controller, there really was no option that needed to be enabled, but I thought I'd check anyway.

So I swapped SATA ports (there are four off of this controller). Port 1: Dead. Port 2: Dead. Port 3: Excelsior! (Port 4 was already spoken for).

You know all those times when we speculated that perhaps there was something wrong with the ULI controller, and that was part of why this board was so unstable in WinXP? Maybe there really IS a defect to this specific motherboard?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


A short report on my CFX3200-DR's resurrection:

Last night, before hitting the hay, I finished all the vital hookups to the motherboard and attempted a first POST. Success! One happy beep, hit DEL, and I'm in the BIOS.









Hiccup #1: The board didn't detect my single HDD.









I went through my BIOS options (it has been forever since I'd fired this board up, and I swapped CMOS batteries as well), looking for anything that might need to be enabled for the HDD to be detected. Since this was the ULI primary SATA controller, there really was no option that needed to be enabled, but I thought I'd check anyway.

So I swapped SATA ports (there are four off of this controller). Port 1: Dead. Port 2: Dead. Port 3: Excelsior! (Port 4 was already spoken for).

You know all those times when we speculated that perhaps there was something wrong with the ULI controller, and that was part of why this board was so unstable in WinXP? Maybe there really IS a defect to this specific motherboard?










Awe that's a real bummer man. Maybe there is a solution that does not get much publicity like a heat gun to the ULi chip or something.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Awe that's a real bummer man. Maybe there is a solution that does not get much publicity like a heat gun to the ULi chip or something.


Hmm, maybe. I'll do some Googling. Maybe something will turn up.

At any rate, at least two of the ports work. That's enough.









Though that definitely destroys any resale value this board may have had.


----------



## N2Gaming

Well lets hope it's not as bad as one of my Destroyer mobo issues. One of the Destroyers just decided to stop posting all together. I pulled it out of the chassis and put it on the bench. No luck or love from the mobo. So I pulled all the hardware off it and put it on my reserve Destroyer and guess what. It fires right up as if it did not skip a beat. So I dug and dug around the mobo and to my surprise I found a very small crack perpendicular to the out side edge. I don't know if it was like that when I got it from ebay or if it happened in my possession some how. Honestly I don't see how I could have done it but I won't rule out the possibility of it happening while I own it just not by my own doing


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Well lets hope it's not as bad as one of my Destroyer mobo issues. One of the Destroyers just decided to stop posting all together. I pulled it out of the chassis and put it on the bench. No luck or love from the mobo. So I pulled all the hardware off it and put it on my reserve Destroyer and guess what. It fires right up as if it did not skip a beat. So I dug and dug around the mobo and to my suprise I found a very small crack permandicular to the out side edge. I don't know if it was like that when I got it from ebay or if it happened in my possetion some how. Honestly I don't see how I could have done it but I won't rule out the possablity of it happening while I own it just not by my own doing










Haha, you know you may be on to something there, N2G. I bought my CFX3200-DR (actually, both of them; I have another one, a virgin in its box) from eBay.

I guess we really do run a risk of receiving less than healthy hardware when we buy used, especially if we buy via eBay.







Perhaps I'll have to go have a really up-close look at the CFX when this contest dealie is over.


----------



## N2Gaming

I have yet to determine this the cause of it's problems but my suspicions lean towards this being the reason it was sold on ebay in the first place. There is always the possibility that it happened in my possession some how. I don't remember seeing any cracks on it when I got it but it's so small that I may have over looked it all together because it was missing 2 bios chips. Then when I placed my other boards bios chips on this one it posted and booted into windows w/out hesitation or any problems.


----------



## cdoublejj

first one will get a second validation after a while 
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1500830
my moms email machine


----------



## nategr8ns

Guys, I need some help with my rig before the winter contests start.
What does it take to get stable with four DIMMs?

In Memtest, only 3.2GB show up. Is memtest 32bit? In windows, CPUz shows 4 1GB sticks but task manager only shows 3.2GB. Its a 64-bit OS, what gives?

Zero Memtest errors, both with just the new sticks and with all four sticks. No OCCT Memtest errors either.

But I still BSOD/lockup when playing Minecraft for extended periods of time, as it will start to fill up the RAM.

RAM is running at 172MHz, 3-4-4-8 2T. Well below specs of 250MHz, 3-4-4-8 1T.

This is starting to bug me... I don't want to up the RAM voltage in case my cooling is insufficient (the 120mm fan isn't blowing directly at the RAM, just past the ram). It's already running at 2.8V IIRC. Should I up the NB voltage a tad? (Current chipset voltage is 1.6V)


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Guys, I need some help with my rig before the winter contests start.
What does it take to get stable with four DIMMs?

In Memtest, only 3.2GB show up. Is memtest 32bit? In windows, CPUz shows 4 1GB sticks but task manager only shows 3.2GB. Its a 64-bit OS, what gives?

Zero Memtest errors, both with just the new sticks and with all four sticks. No OCCT Memtest errors either.

But I still BSOD/lockup when playing Minecraft for extended periods of time, as it will start to fill up the RAM.

RAM is running at 172MHz, 3-4-4-8 2T. Well below specs of 250MHz, 3-4-4-8 1T.

This is starting to bug me... I don't want to up the RAM voltage in case my cooling is insufficient (the 120mm fan isn't blowing directly at the RAM, just past the ram). It's already running at 2.8V IIRC. Should I up the NB voltage a tad? (Current chipset voltage is 1.6V)


If you intend to use this in the go competitins then I'd suggest pulling out 2x sticks of ram or even pulling out 3 and just running one stick of ram for stability and cpu speed purposes. For overall and general useage you may have bad ram. Have you ran memtest86+ ver 4.10 yet? Most people will tell you that s939 chips did not like having all 4 ram slots populated.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Nate:
Enable your hardware memory hole in BIOS







.

And to get 4 sticks STABLE will require DDR333 stock speeds instead of DDR400 (due to the memory controller). You can still push them back up to 400 and higher if you can get them there though







.


----------



## pioneerisloud

*Attention EVERYBODY that's on the email list for the Contest!!!*
We still have a few things left to finalize. And I need those lists I requested so I can finalize the posting. I'd like to have it done and ready to roll by this weekend (Saturday preferred). This way, all I have to do is edit the rules into the thread and get it officially kick started. You guys know who you are that I'm referring to







.

~pio


----------



## CleanSweep

Add me, Athlon 64 3700+ woot!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CleanSweep* 
Add me, Athlon 64 3700+ woot!

We'll need a VALID CPUz validation link for you to be added on the official roster. Otherwise you'll be added as a nostalgic member







.

Also, there is a contest going for 939 Club members. You can find it here. You are more than welcome to join if your 939 rig is fully functioning.


----------



## Grim

Hey now!?

I submitted my name to be added here AGES ago.
I've had the thread subscribed since.. year before last, or last year!
Whats up with that?

Could this do for my CPU validation? :
http://www.overclock.net/2355763-post1044.html

My motherboard is dead now : \\


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Grim* 
Hey now!?

I submitted my name to be added here AGES ago.
I've had the thread subscribed since.. year before last, or last year!
Whats up with that?

Could this do for my CPU validation? :
http://www.overclock.net/2355763-post1044.html

My motherboard is dead now : \\

Since your machine is dead, there's really no need for a validation link







. Hopefully txtmstrjoe and Blitz can get the OP updated so you can be added as a nostalgic member.


----------



## Grim

heh. "Nostalgic member"


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Nate:
Enable your hardware memory hole in BIOS







.

And to get 4 sticks STABLE will require DDR333 stock speeds instead of DDR400 (due to the memory controller). You can still push them back up to 400 and higher if you can get them there though







.

Huh. Been wondering what that was. So many settings I still don't understand.

restarting now...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
Huh. Been wondering what that was. So many settings I still don't understand.

restarting now...

We better see you making an appearance in the contest thread







.

Everybody that's going to be competing, don't forget to subscribe to that thread.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
We better see you making an appearance in the contest thread







.

Everybody that's going to be competing, don't forget to subscribe to that thread.

"Remap memory for over 4G"

I love it when I forget to read the descriptions *facepalm*.

P.S.: http://www.overclock.net/11425399-post13.html


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nategr8ns* 
"Remap memory for over 4G"

I love it when I forget to read the descriptions *facepalm*.

P.S.: http://www.overclock.net/11425399-post13.html

Can't I just insert yet another shameless plug?







Just trying to get as many people as we can in there







.


----------



## Blitz6804

Grim: Until just now, we never had a CPUz validation. I have now put you on the pending list on my PC if ever I get off my butt to move again. I have your first post down as December of 2008.


----------



## GuardianOdin

a little blast from the past for ya guys. I really miss OC'ing my DFI Expert


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
a little blast from the past for ya guys. I really miss OC'ing my DFI Expert










If that machine is still running, you should enter the contest too







.

By the way guys, I think I'm done with the formatting on the contest thread







. I'm very pleased with how it looks. I have ONE example validation up now (for those that NEEDED to get theirs done in advance because their rig is out of town). The other one I can't get up until we have decided on rules.

So guys on the email list...let's get the act together. I'd like to have everything done and ready this weekend if possible. I won't edit the rules in, or the second example till the start date. But I would like to have them ready to go.


----------



## Tomass

Hi Peoples.. could i get added to the club?

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1501669

I played around ages ago overclocking and tinkering with my 939. This contest looks intresting, thought i might give it a go again.

Cheers Thomas


----------



## KipH

Well. For some reason I thought I had joined already. Well, my rig is in a box waiting for a good time, and LOUD made it a good time AND I need a rig for my daughter so....

Franken'rig coming up.

AMD Athlon 64 X2 4200+ on a Gigabyte K8N SLi with all the other parts to be found in boxes in storage. Wish me luck.


----------



## Blitz6804

Good luck Kip.

To all: Happy Thanksgiving!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Happy Thanksgiving, everyone!

I've made some additions to the roster as well. Tomass and cdoublejj are our newest members, and Grim our newest Nostalgic member (by virtue of having a broken motherboard







).

CleanSweep and Kip69 could be added as either a regular or a Nostalgic member depending on whether they provide a valid CPU-Z link.

Now why would this fine distinction matter?

Only "regular" members with a currently running S939 machine are eligible to participate and compete in our End of 2010 Show & Go "S939 Club Winter Contests"!







So if you intend to participate, one of the hard requirements is to be a member of the S939 Appreciation Club with an active S939 system.

Hope to see you competing!


----------



## mnorris80

I'll be posting my cpu-z business as soon as I get home to get the link off my machine.

Here's what I'm running in this thing right now:

-Asus A8N SLI Premium mobo w/ version 1303 BIOS
-Opteron 165 socket 939 CPU
-4x 1gb Corsair twinXL. It's geared for 400mhz, but I have it at 333mhz dual channel
-pair of barracuda hard drives in Raid 0
-Sapphire HD5770 1GB Video Card
-Using onboard sound

At the moment, the thing is clocked at 2.6 ghz (up from 2.0 rated for cpu)
I have done nothing with overclocking the GPU, at this time.

The cooling on the CPU is a thermalright ultra xp-120, with a 120mm fan attached. The case is designed with the power supply in the bottom, an 80mm fan blowing onto the 3D accelerator, a 180mm fan blowing out the top, 2x 120mm fans blowing in front at bottom (and directly onto both hard-drives), and 1x 120mm fan blowing out the back directly rear of the CPU heatsink.

The problem I'm having is this:

I run windows 7 64-bit. The OS is a complete jerk about drivers for a lot of tools I would use to monitor fan RPMs and temperatures (Asus probe only partially functions).

I was able to get round-about results because the portion of Asus Probe that monitors CPU temperature was functional. It remains cool even with the 600 mhz added speed.

My question is this:

Is there a monitoring program that will get me access to northbridge temps, CPU temp, and GPU temp?

Are parts still available so that I can add a northbridge cooler?

I am giving serious consideration to a liquid cooling system, because they can now be found for socket 939 systems on ebay for great prices. However, before I really mess with that, I want to see what I can get out of the air cooling.

Also, I'd be much happier if I could find a cooling fan unit that would mount into two of the 5.25" bays on the case, as this would give more direct airflow to the CPU (and the air that reaches it will not have been warmed by passing over the hard drives).

Anyhow, will get my cpu-z link on here within the next hour or two


----------



## KipH

Quote:


Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe* 
Happy Thanksgiving, everyone!

I've made some additions to the roster as well. Tomass and cdoublejj are our newest members, and Grim our newest Nostalgic member (by virtue of having a broken motherboard







).

CleanSweep and Kip69 could be added as either a regular or a Nostalgic member depending on whether they provide a valid CPU-Z link.

Now why would this fine distinction matter?

Only "regular" members with a currently running S939 machine are eligible to participate and compete in our End of 2010 Show & Go "S939 Club Winter Contests"!







So if you intend to participate, one of the hard requirements is to be a member of the S939 Appreciation Club with an active S939 system.

Hope to see you competing!










Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
It's that time of year again!...These contests are open to *anybody and everybody*. Even if you're not huge into overclocking....there's room for you .

Anybody (from the club, *active or not*) can join in on these contests.
(snip)
The Rules:

* Be a member of the Socket 939 Appreciation Club (link in my sig) at the time this contest starts. You can be an active member, *or a nostalgic member.*
* You must have a WORKING Socket 939 machine to enter.
* If you need to get started on your entry before the official start date, please PM myself or one of the judges. Some members don't actually have their Socket 939 machines with them. If this is the case, you can only be eligible for Contest #1.

I was joining as a nostalgia member as I am building the machine now, my plan was to give it for Christmas. And rules is not final. So let me know. I also did not know I needed a validation to join, first club I needed proof.

But I am not going to kill the rig anyway so put me in there.

How can you have a working machine and get working on it after Dec 1? Did I miss something?


----------



## mnorris80




----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kip69* 
I also did not know I needed a validation to join, first club I needed proof.

Did I miss something?

Yes you missed it in the OP where it clearly states you need to post either a screen shot or CPU-Z validation to be a club member and for the contest I believe you are required a CPU-Z validation to prove you have a running rig for the contest.


----------



## ny_driver

Well I can't get video post on the Neo2, must be the x850pro(my last AGP) took a dump.







However I did manage to get the Tyan Tomcat to come to life with it's onboard video.

I'd like to freeze it, but I don't want to dismantle the main rig to do it.

TEASER


----------



## pioneerisloud

Okay guys, I think we have a LITTLE bit of confusion here on the rules. I was stating the Nostalgic members can run in the contest, because I was unaware of the "Regular" members section. If by "regular" members, you mean the ones that have CPUz validations, that's not entirely fair. Not everyone's rig is running Windows, and not everyone's rig is fully functioning right at THIS time. Hence why I said you just have to be on the list.

The rules for the actual contests themselves, are going to provide enough hard evidence that you are entering a 939 rig. So I don't personally think a CPUz validation in our club here is really needed. Both contests that we have up are going to be well monitored, and we WILL know if what you are submitting is real or not.

This is why I was stating Nostalgic Members can run. We've already allowed at least one guy that I know of that runs Linux to be in the contest. As such, he has no way of getting a CPUz.

~pio


----------



## SwishaMane

Well, apparently, Futuremark dropped support for 3dmark06, so I didnt get to see what I thought would have been a new personal record, but i do get to share with you guys my best OC thus far on this 939 ES. I'm on it as I write this up. It didnt crash 15 secs after I got to see my record like last time, lol. All i did was switch RAM to dual channel 1, and its doing better already. Pretty much this whole time Ive been benching on channel 2 because I wanted to MAKE SURE I could notice differences between them once I finally got good RAM, and could switch slots. So hopefully this is the start of something sweet!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SwishaMane* 
Well, apparently, Futuremark dropped support for 3dmark06, so I didnt get to see what I thought would have been a new personal record, but i do get to share with you guys my best OC thus far on this 939 ES. I'm on it as I write this up. It didnt crash 15 secs after I got to see my record like last time, lol. All i did was switch RAM to dual channel 1, and its doing better already. Pretty much this whole time Ive been benching on channel 2 because I wanted to MAKE SURE I could notice differences between them once I finally got good RAM, and could switch slots. So hopefully this is the start of something sweet!

If that thing is going in the contest.....wow. This is going to prove to be some SERIOUS competition







.


----------



## SwishaMane

Wait til you see it. *hint* it looks something like my avatar **

Depending on what benchmarks the contests use, these clocks might be impossible. 3dmark06 is mebbe, 50% cpu usage. This rig is matched up with a gtx 275 btw, so its obliterating 3D intense games, like crysis, on 939 lol

















EDIT: This chip, on dual channel 2 at least, was proven to only get 3ghz 100% CPU stable... It was at least an hour OCCT linpack stable, BUT, I forgot, that was on aftermarket air, not full custom water like now. 1.65vcore was unheard of then, and on the H50. Now its like, why cant I get 1.8vcore? Oh man, /drool... I might need to voltage mod this old mobo... /ponder


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
If that machine is still running, you should enter the contest too







.

By the way guys, I think I'm done with the formatting on the contest thread







. I'm very pleased with how it looks. I have ONE example validation up now (for those that NEEDED to get theirs done in advance because their rig is out of town). The other one I can't get up until we have decided on rules.

So guys on the email list...let's get the act together. I'd like to have everything done and ready this weekend if possible. I won't edit the rules in, or the second example till the start date. But I would like to have them ready to go.

It's still up and running, but I have a Opty 170 in it now. I haven't had time to get around to OC'ing past 2.8Ghz. To much work and not enough free time. I'll help judging the contest thou.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
It's still up and running, but I have a Opty 170 in it now. I haven't had time to get around to OC'ing past 2.8Ghz. To much work and not enough free time. I'll help judging the contest thou.









Adding you to the list of judges







.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Adding you to the list of judges







.

Tanks!


----------



## pioneerisloud

I love Winter overclocking







.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1504433

Yes, that's right. I get to put my submissions for the contests in early







. You guys STILL have no idea what the rules are, just know that the above is what I've pulled off for my personal runs







. I'm soo excited. I love suicide runs







!!!!!!!


----------



## ny_driver

Hmmmmm....perhaps the contest will not even require using 939 hardware....wouldn't that be great?









EDIT: I think the Tyan Tomcat may actually be a better overclocker. BIOS is pretty decent. I have it hooked up now, but need to reinstall OS before I can test it.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I love Winter overclocking







.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1504433

Yes, that's right. I get to put my submissions for the contests in early







. You guys STILL have no idea what the rules are, just know that the above is what I've pulled off for my personal runs







. I'm soo excited. I love suicide runs







!!!!!!!


Ehhh.... Too slow!








http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1285021

You'll note the date is for 7-9-10 and the new version wasn't available when they quit taking validations for that CPU-Z version on that date. I tried to get the newest version but the download wasn't available at the time so did it and at least I have a record of it.


----------



## ny_driver

Well I went and bought an FX-53 Clawhammer 2.4GHz chip for $55 because this motherboard is really nice and has a lot of features. It works really good and I want to OC the flock out of some 939 chip on it and keep it as a 2nd rig. Plus I needed it for the contest.............maybe









I couldn't afford a dual core and didn't really need it anyways. That system is fast feeling already with the 3700+ @ 2.75GHz.

I think all I can get is ~1.57v out of the board.......but I bet that could be changed.







It stays nice and cool sitting outside in December.

EDIT: so it looks like I'll be only getting ~3GHz out of the FX-53, but we shall see. Maybe I'll get a couple pounds of DICE and try out the F1ee.

Either way it'll be fun finding out......unless it's a dud.


----------



## ny_driver

I decided to go ahead and get an Ultra-D to build my 939 machine with. One of the most important things I have learned about building computers is to start with a high quality motherboard.

I might be able to squeeze some nice numbers out of my old chips now. Anyone know if you can actually put 2.1v to the cpu like it says at the end of the first paragraph of page 11(overclocking and conclusions) in this review.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I am getting SOOO antsy for this contest to start....and I'm not even competing!!! I am so eager to see what you all come up with though.

By the way, we are short one judge now. Working on getting us a 5th right now though. If anybody from THIS CLUB is not planning on running in the contest, and you have a fairly well known name in here, please speak up. And the rest of us will take you into consideration if you'd like to help judge.


----------



## theCanadian

I'll judge, I've been a member for a long time. And I've always had a 939 something put together for as long as I've been a member, but I don't know how well everyone knows me. That may be a plus though, I'll have no problem being impartial.

Plus I don't even know if can compete. The rules really aren't fully posted yet and I leave tomorrow.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 
I'll judge, I've been a member for a long time. And I've always had a 939 something put together for as long as I've been a member, but I don't know how well everyone knows me. That may be a plus though, I'll have no problem being impartial.

Plus I don't even know if can compete. The rules really aren't fully posted yet and I leave tomorrow.

We have already discussed this







. Get ahold of me on Steam.

And a big thank you to Mr. AMD Editor himself. Tator Tot is now our 5th judge







.


----------



## SwishaMane

Aww chyuh, got my new mobo installed. Here is a tease...

This is the ES... The IHS is getting worn out from all the benching I've done on it myself, plus my pics are hard to see. The RAM is barely visible because its so reflective, it just looks like part of the mobo. They are OCZ Platinum PC4800, DDR600... 2.5-4-4-10


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SwishaMane* 
Aww chyuh, got my new mobo installed. Here is a tease...

This is the ES... The IHS is getting worn out from all the benching I've done on it myself, plus my pics are hard to see. The RAM is barely visible because its so reflective, it just looks like part of the mobo. They are OCZ Platinum PC4800, DDR600... 2.5-4-4-10











Wow, some of you guys are NOT going to give up without a good fight!!!! I like!!!


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SwishaMane* 
Aww chyuh, got my new mobo installed. Here is a tease...

This is the ES... The IHS is getting worn out from all the benching I've done on it myself, plus my pics are hard to see. The RAM is barely visible because its so reflective, it just looks like part of the mobo. They are OCZ Platinum PC4800, DDR600... 2.5-4-4-10

Nice stuff!
Have a set of OCZ PC4400 Golds here myself and a working stick of PC4800 with the same timings. The other PC4800 stick began dying sometime ago so I now have just one but it still clocks well. I use it in my 754 setup since it doesn't have DC operation so it's a perfect fit there.

BTW what is the size of those sticks? My 4400's are a 2x 256MB set.


----------



## theCanadian

The label says PC4800 512MBx2.

I have some cheap ram in mine that will clock to DDR500 at stock timings.


----------



## Kryton

These (So far) have reached DDR556 no prob and are capable of more. The board I have can sock the volts to them and I was holding off on the voltage (3.4v's) since I didn't want to burn them down, even though they are BH-5 sticks. Cooling was a concern at the time but I do have a Cool It systems Ram cooler here I can use.


----------



## pioneerisloud

You know....I'm really curious to know if my old Opty, RAM, and boards are going to make an appearance







.


----------



## Kryton

I'm SURE they will.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kryton* 
I'm SURE they will.

I'm not sure, I honestly don't even remember who the parts sold to, lol. I'd have to REALLY dig things up, to find my old FS thread and find out where they went, lol.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I'm not sure, I honestly don't even remember who the parts sold to, lol. I'd have to REALLY dig things up, to find my old FS thread and find out where they went, lol.


Quote:

* DFI Lanparty NF4 Ultra D - $70 Shipped OBO
SOLD!: SwishaMane
* Jetway 939GT4-SLI - $50 Shipped OBO
SOLD!: pbasil1
* AMD Athlon64 3000+ Winchester (Socket 939, hits 2.6GHz) - $25 Shipped OBO
SOLD!: SwishaMane
* 4x1GB Crucial Value DDR400 (3-3-3-8 @ 2.5v, Brand new) (could split into 2 kits) - $90 Shipped OBO
SOLD!: ericeod
* 2x1GB GSkill DDR400 (2.5-3-3-6 @ 2.6v) - $55 Shipped OBO
SOLD!: ericeod
* 2x512MB Geil Ultra X DDR400 (2-2-2-5-1T, hits DDR450 stable @ 3-3-3-8) (apparently its BH-5) - $25 Shipped
SOLD!
* Asus A8N32-SLI Deluxe (hits 337 HTT stable) - $75 Shipped
TRADED!
* AMD Athlon x2 3800+ Manchester (Socket 939, lapped, hits 2.65GHz stable, 2.97GHz bench) - $40 Shipped
TRADED!
* 4x1GB HP PC5300 (Fully buffered DDR2-667) - $25 Shipped
SOLD!: djsi38t
* AMD Opteron 165 LCBQE (hits 3.1GHz stable) (holds the #8 in the WORLD @ 3.36GHz) - $65 Shipped
SOLD!: Durango95
* 2x1GB Corsair XMS DDR400 (each 2GB kits hits DDR533 stable) - $55 per 2GB Shipped
SOLD!: beefdog
* 2x1GB Corsair XMS DDR400 (each 2GB kits hits DDR533 stable) - $55 per 2GB Shipped
SOLD!: myerz635
derp


----------



## pioneerisloud

Looks like my old DFI board will definitely be making an appearance then. Maybe my old CPU too (don't recall how well that single core clocked). The rest, probably not, lol.


----------



## ny_driver

How about the #1 US Opty170 OC............3141.03MHz 

Not sure if I am voltage blocked of FSB, but when I get the Ultra-D I will certainly find out.


----------



## SwishaMane

Im not sure if it is INDEED your old DFI Pioneer, I had two of them, and I can't recall, it MIGHT be... 3.141 /yawn


----------



## ny_driver

I'll yawn ya.......when I get that Ultra-D from you


----------



## SwishaMane

You'll yawn me? Gosh, that doesn't sound too tasty...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SwishaMane* 
You'll yawn me? Gosh, that doesn't sound too tasty...

I'll lick you







.

That sounds much more tasty than yawning you







.


----------



## SwishaMane

...

I don't like where this is going.


----------



## SwishaMane

Wanted to tease with another trick of mine for this contest. I just did the vcore mod for my mobo... up to 1.8v, IDK if it works just yet, but I just got it done, and it looks like it should work... Trim pot is standing up to make adjustments easier, and the location looks far away cause the angle, plus i needed a spot where I could easily adjust on the fly









BTW, this was done to my old A8N-E because one, I think it will OC better then my new sli deluxe...







and two, because I f***ing wanted to mod it and try it out, I think my ES is limited by vcore, so double














OF COURSE, I will be testing on cheapo CPU, hopefully smoke me a 3000+, nom nom


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*


Wanted to tease with another trick of mine for this contest. I just did the vcore mod for my mobo... up to 1.8v, IDK if it works just yet, but I just got it done, and it looks like it should work... Trim pot is standing up to make adjustments easier, and the location looks far away cause the angle, plus i needed a spot where I could easily adjust on the fly









BTW, this was done to my old A8N-E because one, I think it will OC better then my new sli deluxe...







and two, because I f***ing wanted to mod it and try it out, I think my ES is limited by vcore, so double














OF COURSE, I will be testing on cheapo CPU, hopefully smoke me a 3000+, nom nom


Oh my......

This is DEFINITELY going to be a fun contest







!!!!!!!


----------



## SwishaMane

UPDATE: Vcore mod is a success! Highest vcore I can choose in BIOS went up from 1.500 to 1.55, and at 1.55v, the trim pot is actually making circuit do 1.68v!!! I havent actually been able to boot into Windows and adjust in-time, but thats what BIOS hardware monitor is reporting. This mod was done to my old A8N-E, which should allow ES to clock higher, I think it needed vcore...

EDIT: W00t, All I had to do was mess with the trim pot some more and I got it... 1.81vcore. This value is constant, and IDK what extra voltage the board might give it under load, LOL

Heres a screen from my sacrificial setup... A8N-E, single core 3000+, generic Patriot DDR400... The 1.71v min was where I started, rig boots at 1.81vcore at 1.55 in BIOS. WOW! This is gonna be fun. Glad I modded my old board which I think will be better for ES anyway... Im shooting for 3.5ghz for CPU-Z screen...







Too bad I dont have any BH-5, Id do the 3v+ vdimm mod too...

At 1.25v in BIOS my default vcore is 1.46v, LOL


----------



## nategr8ns

Wow, truly awesome.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Holy smokes that's a lot of voltage!!!! Good job! I'm looking forward to seeing what you pull off with that ES now







.


----------



## SwishaMane

Im just glad its a consistant voltage... Thats what held me back for sure, trying for more then 3.168ghz at 1.52vcore, yeah, just NOT gonna work... 3.3 should be within my grasps now, at 300mhz, 2-2-2-5-7-1t, w0mp!!! Release rules damnit!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SwishaMane* 
Im just glad its a consistant voltage... Thats what held me back for sure, trying for more then 3.168ghz at 1.52vcore, yeah, just NOT gonna work... 3.3 should be within my grasps now, at 300mhz, 2-2-2-5-7-1t, w0mp!!! Release rules damnit!

Rules will be released tomorrow night at midnight, PST







.


----------



## SwishaMane

So, when I submit my entry 2 hours after rules release, I can go ahead and claim my prizes? LOL

Im just trying to sound big and bad, I don't really have anything top secret going on over here, I pretty much disclosed all my tricks so far...







I got nothing...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*


So, when I submit my entry 2 hours after rules release, I can go ahead and claim my prizes? LOL

Im just trying to sound big and bad, I don't really have anything top secret going on over here, I pretty much disclosed all my tricks so far...







I got nothing...


I vote you torture that Winchester I sold you







.


----------



## SwishaMane

Got it in right now!!! Check the screenie I posted previous page... Its the chip Im testing the vmod on, LOL It handled 1.81vcore nicely on the H50... 45C idle, 1.890ghz,thats 210x9...







Im gonna need 350htt to get where I need it,a nd theres NO WAIS on this mobo... I NEED the ES, for its 13x multi if ANYTHING... Got my 3700+ too, hmm?


----------



## Blitz6804

Do me a favor Swisha, please set up a video camera just in case 1.8+ volts happens to pop a chip or 3.3+ happens to pop a DIMM.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Do me a favor Swisha, please set up a video camera just in case 1.8+ volts happens to pop a chip or 3.3+ happens to pop a DIMM.


I second this notion







. I don't want you to not do it....I just want to see it







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Yeah I 3rd the notion. Pop a chip before you can qualify the speed.


----------



## SwishaMane

LOL, 1.8vcore is yawnage bra, I might push it to 2.0v on stock cooling, YES!


----------



## eternalenergy311

Hey guys, hope someone can help, here it goes. I had ben having problems running in dual channel mem mode. Both my sticks pass mem test. I figured mem controller on the chip, so i bought an opty 146 to test with. the problem went away, so i figured that my 3800 x2 was bad. About a month later, i tried the 3800 x2 again, and all worked ok, for about a month. the first problem i had was that i would lose the mouse. then i started getting memory beep codes. i was able to run both sticks in single channel for a week or so, and then that failed and i had to run a single stick. Overclocked or not didnt seem to matter. Tonight i put the opty in agin, and still no luck running dual channel. in fact i cant run more than one of any stick, period. no matter what slots, what timings, overclocked or not. And, I still have the mouse quitting sometimes, at random. heat is not an issue, voltage doesnt seem to flucuate, i ve tried bare hardwre configs. I've tried everything i can think of at the moment, so im thinkung something on the board is bad, and maybe that something is frying my memory controllers on my chips? Board is still an ABIT KN8, memory is mushkin redline dddr 500. yes, i have tried and mem tested other sticks. Still no luck. I am puzzled, and unfortunatley do not have another socket 939 board to test with. Any thoughts, from anyone?


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


Hey guys, hope someone can help, here it goes. I had ben having problems running in dual channel mem mode. Both my sticks pass mem test. I figured mem controller on the chip, so i bought an opty 146 to test with. the problem went away, so i figured that my 3800 x2 was bad. About a month later, i tried the 3800 x2 again, and all worked ok, for about a month. the first problem i had was that i would lose the mouse. then i started getting memory beep codes. i was able to run both sticks in single channel for a week or so, and then that failed and i had to run a single stick. Overclocked or not didnt seem to matter. Tonight i put the opty in agin, and still no luck running dual channel. in fact i cant run more than one of any stick, period. no matter what slots, what timings, overclocked or not. And, I still have the mouse quitting sometimes, at random. heat is not an issue, voltage doesnt seem to flucuate, i ve tried bare hardwre configs. I've tried everything i can think of at the moment, so im thinkung something on the board is bad, and maybe that something is frying my memory controllers on my chips? Board is still an ABIT KN8, memory is mushkin redline dddr 500. yes, i have tried and mem tested other sticks. Still no luck. I am puzzled, and unfortunatley do not have another socket 939 board to test with. Any thoughts, from anyone?


Its the mobo bro. Chips may have weak IMC, but all AMD chips seem to IMHO. You REALLY need to get a new board, and if problems persist, at least you got a new board, LOL. Really only option you have, unless you can test RAM somewhere else...


----------



## ny_driver

Check these out for the Ultra-D..............I love it when a plan comes together









THIS IS A 1GB MATCHED KIT, WHICH IS *TWO* 512MB STICKS

Used VERY little, they were in a box I built for my Daughter & Grandkids, but then they moved, and I moved, and am now parting out.

Good memory! And my rating speaks for itself.

I recently moved from Louisiana (THANK GOSH, *FINALLY*) in the Spring and am traveling a lot, and will be divesting a LOT of electronics and other items I have ASAP.

Payment via PayPal *ONLY*

Thanks for looking, and good luck !

NOTE AND DISCLAIMER: WHILE I HAVE TRIED TO BE AS ACCURATE IN MY DESCRIPTION AS I CAN BE, I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY ERRORS, OMISSIONS, ETC., MY EBAY FEEDBACK SPEAKS FOR ITSELF.

-- 399 FEEDBACKS IN OVER 10-YRS @ 100%, AND NOT EVEN A SINGLE NEUTRAL NOR NEGATIVE --

**WILL SHIP TO USA, LOWER 48 STATES ONLY**

From the OCZ Spec sheet for them:

Specifications:

500 MHz
CL 2-3-3-8 at 2.6V(400MHz)
CL 2-2-2-8 at 3.3V(500MHz)
(CAS-TRCD-TRP-TRAS)
Available in 1GB (2x512) Dual
Channel Optimized Kit
Unbuffered
Gold Mirrored Copper
Heatspreader
3.3 Volts
184 Pin DIMM
Optimized for Athlon 64 based motherboards ( NOTE: I HAD THESE IN AN INTEL BOX & THEY WERE BLAZINGLY FAST ! )
Special Features: EVP* / ULN2**
Part Number: 1GB (2x512) D/C Kit PN â€" OCZ5001024ELDCGEVX-K

DESCRIPTION:

OCZ EL DDR PC-4000 / 500MHz / Gold Series / Voltage
eXtreme / Dual Channel

OCZ Gold Series EL PC-4000 with Voltage eXtreme technology is
a revolutionary line of memory designed to pursue a new level of
DDR performance. The PC-4000 Gold VX is made to operate
above the traditional memory voltage to increase speed and
stability to ultimately allow the memory to thrive under high voltage.
Memory performance increases with voltage, but unfortunately with
many traditional modules this can significantly reduce stability and
increase the potential for module damage. Unlike typical memory,
VX DDR performs best at an above average voltage, and better
and better as voltage is increased, all without any adverse affects
to stability. Running at 3.3 volts, the PC-4000 Gold VX is capable
of blistering timings of 2-2-2!

OCZ PC-4000 Gold VX is also made with OCZâ€™s proprietary
Enhanced Latency technology to allow the modules to run at lower
latencies than normally possible. In addition, each OCZ EL
PC-3200 VX module is encased in a gold mirrored copper
heatspreader.

The Gold Voltage eXtreme product line 100% hand-tested to
ensure OCZ quality and is optimized for use on Athlon 64 based
motherboards. Every Dual Channel Kit from OCZ is hand tested as
a matched pair across a wide variety of motherboards to ensure
flawless performance on most motherboards. OCZ VX Gold
Edition memory modules are rated to handle up to an incredible
3.5V so that performance enthusiasts can tweak their systems without worry.

Leave it to OCZ to design the ultimate high performance memory
that thrives under high voltage.

* OCZ EVP (Extended Voltage Protection) is a feature that allows
performance enthusiasts to use a VDIMM of 3.5V Â± 5%

**ULN2 (Ultra Low Noise) technology uses various printed circuit
board (PCB) techniques to reduce the amount of electrical noise
that is present in all high-speed ICs. This results in faster and more
stable memory.


----------



## BlackOmega

Those seem like some nice sticks man. Good for benching.









Hey guys, for this competition, I'm thinking that we should make a "banner" type thing for our sigs linking to it and help get the "word" out.


----------



## dlee7283

I wish those 785G 939's could be bought in the States


----------



## Blitz6804

Got a friend in Europe?


----------



## theCanadian

t4ct1c47 might be your friend.


----------



## GsxR1000Ryda

Decided to slap my 939 setup on a old skeleton case I had laying around. I'm actually going to give it to my girl friend but that isn't before I installed CS:S, DOD:S and MW4. Woop Woop!!! Add to to the club Plz!!!
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1525522
Attachment 183969


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Please welcome our newest member, GsxR1000Ryda!


----------



## ny_driver

Welcome aboard Gsx1000Ryda. That's a pretty nice 939 system, too.


----------



## theCanadian

I've noticed the FX chips tend to attract a lot more attention than the opty's for being power houses but the opty's always seemed to be clocked higher; by a good bit even. I don't see many FX chips over 2.7Ghz.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 
I've noticed the FX chips tend to attract a lot more attention than the opty's for being power houses but the opty's always seemed to be clocked higher; by a good bit even. I don't see many FX chips over 2.7Ghz.

Alot of the FX chips you'll see are Clawhammer core chips. There was a San Diego core and a Clawhammer core within the 939 FX series.

Guess which core is better?


----------



## ny_driver

I've been considering picking up a Venus Core.







EDIT: I did.


----------



## FlawleZ

threw together one my older 939 setups last night. Hoping to get in to the club


----------



## CiX

Here's my 939 setup (Slightly overclocked)
AMD Athlon 64 3000+ @ 2.07Ghz
Stock AMD cooling

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1536618

Please add me to this club


----------



## SwishaMane

Might want to drop your HT to x4, 1150mhz on the ht link is gonna crash hard...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane;11656117*
> Might want to drop your HT to x4, 1150mhz on the ht link is gonna crash hard...


Says who? My Opty and A8N32 ran my HT Link as high as 1450MHz perfectly STABLE.


----------



## Blitz6804

My AT8-32X ran 1250 MHz all day long.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlawleZ;11612401*
> threw together one my older 939 setups last night. Hoping to get in to the club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v321/FlawleZ/Screenshots/scrn4.jpg


Yo, those 4000+ were no joke! They hauled ass even at stock clocks.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Please welcome our newest members, FlawleZ and CiX!

Welcome!


----------



## FlawleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theCanadian;11657567*
> Yo, those 4000+ were no joke! They hauled ass even at stock clocks.


Yes they were! And to think I purchased this one in 2006 open box at Newegg for $50! Still a very usable CPU today.


----------



## ny_driver

I almost bought a 4000+ San Diego yesterday but the price went above $12.......it sold for $15.


----------



## theCanadian

I have a 4000+ San Diego. It's never been overclocked. I should probably do that one of these days.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theCanadian;11660711*
> I have a 4000+ San Diego. It's never been overclocked. I should probably do that one of these days.











YES!


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;11656224*
> Says who? My Opty and A8N32 ran my HT Link as high as 1450MHz perfectly STABLE.


I've had my Opty 180 at over 1500MHz before, didn't phase it one bit and I know all of mine will run at least 1200MHz, no sweat.

The 4000+ San Diego chips are good ones indeed. Have three here myself and all are decent to really good clockers.


----------



## SwishaMane

w/e you noobs... I thought it was second nature to keep ht link as close to or under 1000mhz as possible... W/EV ... /rollseyes


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane;11665315*
> w/e you noobs... I thought it was second nature to keep ht link as close to or under 1000mhz as possible... W/EV ... /rollseyes


HT Link also increases overall "snappiness" of the system though. Somehow, it doesn't show up on any benchmarks though


----------



## eternalenergy311

Anybody have any pointers/expierence's with this one. Im gonna try my 3800 x2 in it maybe as early as saturday. Might try the opty 146 in it as well. Hopefully I'll finally be able to run dual channel again, and maybe even get higher than my previous 2.90 mark with the chip.

ECS KN1 Lite Socket 939

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rt=nc&nma=true&item=200555455406&si=8EC73w4U1ZWLG5k0VKurZRfvU5I%253D&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT


----------



## FlawleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane;11665315*
> w/e you noobs... I thought it was second nature to keep ht link as close to or under 1000mhz as possible... W/EV ... /rollseyes


No you're right in the fact that it has long been advised to keep HT link around 1000 for system stability by other overclockers in the past as it dosen't seem to provide much if any performance improvement. However, it doesn't mean that if you can't achieve a higher speed stable that its a bad thing.

I have however read reports of others in the past actually losing performance in some benchmarks (mostly 3D I believe) with a higher HT link speed.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlawleZ;11668897*
> No you're right in the fact that it has long been advised to keep HT link around 1000 for system stability by other overclockers in the past as it dosen't seem to provide much if any performance improvement. However, it doesn't mean that if you can't achieve a higher speed stable that its a bad thing.
> 
> I have however read reports of others in the past actually losing performance in some benchmarks (mostly 3D I believe) with a higher HT link speed.


I never LOST performance by having a higher HT Link. It didn't GAIN any either, it just felt more snappy. Could have been in my head too I suppose







.


----------



## Blitz6804

The reviews that show you lose performance did not start showing up until the AM2+/AM3 generation. On chips designed to use 1800 or 2000, anything past around 2200 starts to decrease performance.


----------



## jimwest

Slapped together a 939 rig:









X2 4200
2GB 4x512 PC3200
Asus A8N-Sli Deluxe
2 7800GT SLI
300GB Maxtor
500GB WD Black
Silverstone 650w
Cooler Master Cavalier

It's going to be my main rig for now. Trying to get rid of the 7800 GT's (as well as my X2 3800 and 512MB) so I can pick up a GTS 450. I really want an SSD.


----------



## 420Assassin

If wouldnt mind updating my Info, got new Mobo, Ram, and oc from what i previously had and submitted here..

OC is S&M v1.9.1 Stable Long test.. screenshot attached below and
here is cpuz validation Overclock was done thru bios and on AIR (geminii w/2x120mm coolermasters red led fan)
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1539449


----------



## Stalker096

http://img815.imageshack.us/i/lulzd.png/
hi can i join??








well it's a amd althon 64 oc'ed to 2.8


----------



## 420Assassin

im proved my stability.. Ready for the Update

3.1GHz Validation
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1541716

2.86GHz 10x286 DDR520 S&M stable.. plus unchecked single thread in S&M for better ram testing all on Long test screen shot below


----------



## theCanadian

What's the max multi on the 4000+ Sandy? I forget. 12 right?

My board has become senile in it's old age and refuses to clock above ~265MHz FSB anymore. It used to do more than 315MHz







Anyway, I've got a 4000+ Diego lying around here somewhere, and the extra multipliers will give me a chip that I can max, instead of a 165 that does 2.4 at stock voltage. No fun with this 165







.


----------



## ny_driver

My 3700 is 11x so it must be 12x.


----------



## theCanadian

Ok.

Check this out. My board used to be capable of these kinda clocks...







Good old days.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=518099


----------



## jimwest

Recently put together a system with a X2 4200, but one of the cores proved to be unstable. I popped in a X2 3800 instead and OC'd it to 2.5 very stable. Gonna try a higher OC pretty soon.


----------



## 420Assassin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jimwest*


Recently put together a system with a X2 4200, but one of the cores proved to be unstable. I popped in a X2 3800 instead and OC'd it to 2.5 very stable. Gonna try a higher OC pretty soon.











with the 3800+ you should be able to get to 2.75GHz 10x275 at 1.425Vcore 100%stable


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *420Assassin;11712015*
> with the 3800+ you should be able to get to 2.75GHz 10x275 at 1.425Vcore 100%stable


Well you can't just say that... There's really never any guarantees.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *420Assassin;11712015*
> with the 3800+ you should be able to get to 2.75GHz 10x275 at 1.425Vcore 100%stable


Not stable. My Manchester took the following:

2.5GHz, 1.375v
2.55GHz, 1.40v
2.60GHz, 1.45v
2.65GHz, 1.55v

I could suicide up to 2.97GHz, boot into Windows as high as 2.75GHz.


----------



## FlawleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *420Assassin;11712015*
> with the 3800+ you should be able to get to 2.75GHz 10x275 at 1.425Vcore 100%stable


Yeah not all were created equally. I have an Opteron 180 that's pissed off trying to be stable at anything 2780+. I'd have it at 2800 for a while then randomly some game or app would cause it to bluescreen. This was at 1.5v. Some of the s939 chips were great with scaling and others simply were not.

I personally believe the quality of chips per wafer has increased substantially since then. Even the worst AM3 chips overclock as good or better than the better 939 and early AM2 chips.


----------



## 420Assassin

well toledos. usually reach 10x275 with no real issues, granted ya some may take lil more voltage, but shouldn tbe any real probs getting close to 2.75GHz


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Oh, I am sooo up for this, and want to join the club. I need to break out the old board and post some validations of what it can do.

I'm rockin' a San Diego 3700+ on Asus A8N32sli Deluxe with 2 gigs of some Aneon based Corsair...don't expect huge RAM clocks.


----------



## SwishaMane

Without huge RAM clocks you are fail...

lol, j/k


----------



## el gappo

Getting real angry now. Trying to get my drives in check for an ln2 event on the 27th and get some benchmarks nailed for this, every time I switch on the phase my lights dimm out lol. Brown outs ftl. Going to move the phase downstairs now and have another crack early tomorrow.

*crosses fingers*


----------



## ny_driver

I having a small LN2 event tomorrow at my house.







I've got my fingers crossed too.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Merry Christmas to all S939ers in the East Coast!

Same greeting goes out to all OCNers.


----------



## theCanadian

Same to you Professor.


----------



## 420Assassin

Merry Christmas my fellow 939ers.. Hope you all have a good fun and safe holidays


----------



## nategr8ns

Merry Christmas!
Going out to Chinese food in 45 minutes with a neighboring family we're good friends with







.

BTW, my new opteron 170 is stable at 320x9, 2880MHz. Is 1 hour of OCCT enough? I forgot to change the length while I was out of the house, so it only ran an hour of stressing.

I got superpi runs at much higher FSBs though, broke under 30 seconds finally







.


----------



## N2Gaming

Merry Christmas all.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nategr8ns;11773758*
> Merry Christmas!
> Going out to Chinese food in 45 minutes with a neighboring family we're good friends with
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> BTW, my new opteron 170 is stable at 320x9, 2880MHz. Is 1 hour of OCCT enough? I forgot to change the length while I was out of the house, so it only ran an hour of stressing.
> 
> I got superpi runs at much higher FSBs though, broke under 30 seconds finally
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I had an opty 165 that would run 30 seconds flat. It took a couple dozen runs and a bunch of optimization to get 29.97s, I was very happy once I did. I was never able to replicate that run. But I did it!


----------



## nategr8ns

Yep, I'm good now. Overclocking killed my MBR a couple of times, and I just had to battle Windows Genuine Advantage for an hour to get it to accept my old code







. No idea why it un-registered or whatever after fixing the MBR.

Anyway, the processor is no longer 1-hr OCCT stable at 320x9







. Maybe my last stress test was with only 2GB of RAM... I honestly forget. Anyway, I can never remember which timings I'm supposed to manually adjust (the standard 3-4-4-7 and the command rate) so I bet RAM is what was causing errors. Although OCCT said the error was "detected on core 1" so I don't know for sure.


----------



## jimwest

I've reached a wall at 1.42v (I don't want to increase it any higher). CPU is at 2.65Ghz. I'm going to start tightening up my timings and Hypertransport speeds.

On another note, I'm getting an 8800GT to replace the SLI 7800GTs. Does anyone have 8800s in SLI?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jimwest*


I've reached a wall at 1.42v (I don't want to increase it any higher). CPU is at 2.65Ghz. I'm going to start tightening up my timings and Hypertransport speeds.

On another note, I'm getting an 8800GT to replace the SLI 7800GTs. Does anyone have 8800s in SLI?


I used to. You won't notice an increase by adding the second card honestly. Anything higher than an 8800GT, you will not see any sort of increase what so ever. Not until you upgrade to a newer CPU.


----------



## jimwest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I used to. You won't notice an increase by adding the second card honestly. Anything higher than an 8800GT, you will not see any sort of increase what so ever. Not until you upgrade to a newer CPU.


That's what I figured. I had a similar setup years ago with my EVGA nf4 SLI, X2 3600 and 8800GT. The 8800GT should be fine. I was thinking of getting a GTX 460 just so I can have a card I can upgrade to, but 8800GTs run for 50 and I won't feel bad for keeping this system after I upgrade.


----------



## N2Gaming

jimwest I was running a few 9800GT's in SLI and then I SLI'd a 8800GT w/one of those 9800GT's and the system ram fine.


----------



## jimwest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


jimwest I was running a few 9800GT's in SLI and then I SLI'd a 8800GT w/one of those 9800GT's and the system ram fine.


I'm sure they work fine, I'm just questioning the performance. With my 8800GT and X2 3600 @ 2.6 I wasn't getting the best out of the GPU. So I don't think two of them will make a huge difference.


----------



## FlawleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimwest;11801594*
> I'm sure they work fine, I'm just questioning the performance. With my 8800GT and X2 3600 @ 2.6 I wasn't getting the best out of the GPU. So I don't think two of them will make a huge difference.


You will see a difference in GPU limited games. I wouldn't hesitate running them in SLI, just make sure you crank the resolution to the max and texture/detail settings to the max. Your CPU will surely bottleneck at lower resolutions, but above say, 1600x1200 or 1680x1050, you'll still see some nice gains in GPU limited titles.


----------



## vAcc

Recently resurrected my 3200+, so happy to see this old buddy alive again!









http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1560280


----------



## theCanadian

Oh hay!

Happy Holidays 939ers!


----------



## txtmstrjoe

@ theCanadian:









That is AWESOME!


----------



## theCanadian

Can that be my official submission for the winter contest?










Where is that thread by the way?


----------



## SwishaMane

I thought it was a fail cookie til it stood out, w00t


----------



## theCanadian

Yeah, when I first peeked in the oven when the timer went off, I laughed at the cookies.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theCanadian;11824836*
> Can that be my official submission for the winter contest?
> 
> Where is that thread by the way?


That can certainly be used as PART of your beauty shots, sure. Still need to show some actual 939 equipment though







. But as I've already tried to state, creativity is the key on that one (and making it pretty).

Link is here.

And by the way, I'm jealous of that cookie. That thing is better than cake.


----------



## FnkDctr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimwest;11801257*
> I've reached a wall at 1.42v (I don't want to increase it any higher). CPU is at 2.65Ghz. I'm going to start tightening up my timings and Hypertransport speeds.
> 
> On another note, I'm getting an 8800GT to replace the SLI 7800GTs. Does anyone have 8800s in SLI?


I noticed a huge improvement when going from 1 8800gt, to 2x8800gt in sli. It wasnt so much an increase in fps, but much smoother game play and no hiccups or slow spots.

for most games I max res and anti aliasing. some games you wont notice a difference in fps from medium to max graphics, of course then your cpu is the bottleneck. I simply overclock the cpu in that case to 2.75ghz and enjoy:thumb:


----------



## jrs

Hey haven't been on here in a while, but I am parting with my 939 gear :-x. I posted in the appraisals section ( link). Of anyone I am sure you guys have the best handle on prices, but since the 939 stuff is getting so old it probably difficult to say. I would appreciate any help.

In addition to what is in that thread I have 3 broken 939 motherboards. I feel bad throwing them away so I was thinking if someone wanted them to play with I could send it out for the cost of shipping (they fit in a medium flat rate box $10.70). Probably tossing them though









MSI K8N Neo-4 SLI: broken trace(s) (1 or 2). I have tried to fix them and have just made them worse. Someone more skilled at soldering could probably do it fairly easily. Once that is fixed, the bios chip would probably also a need to be sent out for reflashing.

eVGA 131-K8-NF44 (SLI, mATX): was sent in for warranty service by my friend and it looks like they tried to resolder a bunch of stuff around the cpu socket.

ASRock 939dual-SATA2: came out of a system where the PSU went. Makes a slight "click" when trying to turn it on but nothing happens.

Thanks for any help,

~jrs


----------



## jimwest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FnkDctr;11826019*
> I noticed a huge improvement when going from 1 8800gt, to 2x8800gt in sli. It wasnt so much an increase in fps, but much smoother game play and no hiccups or slow spots.
> 
> for most games I max res and anti aliasing. some games you wont notice a difference in fps from medium to max graphics, of course then your cpu is the bottleneck. I simply overclock the cpu in that case to 2.75ghz and enjoy:thumb:


Thanks, that's good to know.

I received a 9800GTX+ from my cousin. If I can get another one in the future for dirt cheap, I wouldn't mind doing SLI. Smoother, more consistent gameplay is more important to me than huge FPS increases. As long as it's over 60FPS I can't tell the difference.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimwest;11865554*
> Thanks, that's good to know.
> 
> I received a 9800GTX+ from my cousin. If I can get another one in the future for dirt cheap, I wouldn't mind doing SLI. Smoother, more consistent gameplay is more important to me than huge FPS increases. As long as it's over 60FPS I can't tell the difference.


I think thats what everyone should want, consistent 60fps, that would be great.


----------



## FnkDctr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimwest;11865554*
> Thanks, that's good to know.
> 
> I received a 9800GTX+ from my cousin. If I can get another one in the future for dirt cheap, I wouldn't mind doing SLI. Smoother, more consistent gameplay is more important to me than huge FPS increases. As long as it's over 60FPS I can't tell the difference.


By looking at your system I would try to get a 3.0ghz cpu instead of another 9800GTX+. My system is already bottlenecked at the cpu on most games. I can turn the graphics up from medium to max and get same or similar fps. so I overclock the cpu, which gets the fps up a lil but.

I use speedfan to monitor my temps. I know an intense games get my cards to 80c, they idle around 55-60c, so if they are 65-70c, I know to max the game more.. also you can monitor sli usage. if only 1 card is getting warm.. guess what.. you can force sli through nvidia control panel or just check their website for updates.

when aion first came out, it didnt support sli, I was getting 30fps on maxed all. so I forced with with nvidia control panel and got 50-60. but then nvidia released a driver that uses sli ftw..


----------



## eternalenergy311

If any one knows where I can buy another sets of these sticks, same as the ones in my sig rig?


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311;11892832*
> If any one knows where I can buy another sets of these sticks, same as the ones in my sig rig?


I had some as early as 5 months ago. Red heatsinks, awesome as f***? Does that describe them?


----------



## theCanadian

Dude, I had some Redlines once. Those things were some boss sticks!


----------



## FnkDctr

I wish we could have a socket 939 database of 3dmark scores. maybe a contest


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FnkDctr;11954774*
> I wish we could have a socket 939 database of 3dmark scores. maybe a contest


We're having a contest. It has less than a week left.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FnkDctr;11954774*
> I wish we could have a socket 939 database of 3dmark scores. maybe a contest


HWBOT


----------



## FnkDctr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ny_driver;11955167*
> HWBOT


hey thats a cool link and all. but a lot of the chipsets are liars. It's odd. and the scoring isnt that well.

Ive never seen that list, but it doesnt compare to the one futuremark orb or whatever has.

i was talkin about real users with real specs like this forum..


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FnkDctr;11956797*
> hey thats a cool link and all. but a lot of the chipsets are liars. It's odd. and the scoring isnt that well.
> 
> Ive never seen that list, but it doesnt compare to the one futuremark orb or whatever has.
> 
> i was talkin about real users with real specs like this forum..


How aren't those real users with real specs? People do crazy things with their hardware and get ridiculous results. It's called overclocking and extreme cooling. HWBOT is where the world records are being kept for all benchmarks. Don't be intimidated by those scores that seem miles out of reach.....there is a lot to getting a good score, and LN2 always helps.


----------



## FnkDctr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ny_driver;11958748*
> 
> How aren't those real users with real specs? People do crazy things with their hardware and get ridiculous results. It's called overclocking and extreme cooling. HWBOT is where the world records are being kept for all benchmarks. Don't be intimidated by those scores that seem miles out of reach.....there is a lot to getting a good score, and LN2 always helps.


The hardware isnt confirmed with the chipset. they had like a red or orange mark near most the top scores.

Also if you look at some of the nforce4 chipsets, the boards they list dont support the cpu they have listed.

my 24/7 speed of 2.75ghz 500mhz ram, stock graphics cards scored me 10990. The "Best in the world" according to your website is 12,000 for my chipset and was an amd2 +6000. So id imagine I am already setting "world records" unless I am missing something.

Like I said, orb has more detailed comparisons, but I wonder if people are cheating the hardware confirmations and was wondering if you could also post one by socket type 939. That was my original question.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FnkDctr;11954774*
> I wish we could have a socket 939 database of 3dmark scores. maybe a contest


...

anyways, the main reasoning behind this request was to see how many people got stable results with such high cpu and ram overclocks. Also, how many people actually benefit from gpu overclocking on a socket 939 platform now days.

With my sli 8800gt, Im doubt I get much or any increase from an overclock on my graphics cards.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FnkDctr;11965348*
> The hardware isnt confirmed with the chipset. they had like a red or orange mark near most the top scores.
> 
> Also if you look at some of the nforce4 chipsets, the boards they list dont support the cpu they have listed.
> 
> my 24/7 speed of 2.75ghz 500mhz ram, stock graphics cards scored me 10990. The "Best in the world" according to your website is 12,000 for my chipset and was an amd2 +6000. So id imagine I am already setting "world records" unless I am missing something.
> 
> Like I said, orb has more detailed comparisons, but I wonder if people are cheating the hardware confirmations and was wondering if you could also post one by socket type 939. That was my original question.
> 
> ...
> 
> anyways, the main reasoning behind this request was to see how many people got stable results with such high cpu and ram overclocks. Also, how many people actually benefit from gpu overclocking on a socket 939 platform now days.
> 
> With my sli 8800gt, Im doubt I get much or any increase from an overclock on my graphics cards.


Some of the boards with a NF4 chipset don't officially support the CPU they run but it still works, this can also be seen with other chipsets too.
As an example, my NF4X Infinity doesn't officially support a A64 Mobile chip yet it works and in my case the board recognizes it correctly too as a 3700+ Newark.

As for stable results, if looking for something tested for 12 to 24hrs for 100% stability, you won't see that at the bot but runs done with WPrime and Super PI are in abundance.
It has to be stable enough to complete a run in either when doing the longer runs such as my 32M Super PI run or my 1024M WPrime runs as shown with my 175 Opty.
Pi will throw errors if it's shakey and WPrime will also throw errors if the cores themselves start falling out during a run.
Unfortuately cheating does happen at the bot but the guys there will take care of these cheaters if such has evidence to prove it.

If you are that close to the top score, why not join the team here and see what it's all about before passing final judgement?
You may find you'll like benching for the OCN team at the bot - Surely doesn't hurt to at least give it a shot you know.


----------



## mdymes

My daily Driver is a 939 - Looking to upgrade this year though. Running opensuse 11.2, for music, internet and some virtulization. Still a great machine.

Vendor: "AuthenticAMD"
Model: 15.47.2 "AMD Athlon(tm) 64 Processor 3500+"
Features: fpu,vme,de,pse,tsc,msr,pae,mce,cx8,apic,sep,mtrr,pge,mca,cmov,pat,pse36,clflush,mmx,fxsr,sse,sse2,syscall,nx,mmxext,fxsr_opt,lm,3dnowext,3dnow,up,pni,lahf_lm
Clock: 2200 MHz
BogoMips: 4422.76
Cache: 512 kb


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FnkDctr;11965348*
> The hardware isnt confirmed with the chipset. they had like a red or orange mark near most the top scores.
> 
> Also if you look at some of the nforce4 chipsets, the boards they list dont support the cpu they have listed.
> 
> my 24/7 speed of 2.75ghz 500mhz ram, stock graphics cards scored me 10990. The "Best in the world" according to your website is 12,000 for my chipset and was an amd2 +6000. So id imagine I am already setting "world records" unless I am missing something.
> 
> Like I said, orb has more detailed comparisons, but I wonder if people are cheating the hardware confirmations and was wondering if you could also post one by socket type 939. That was my original question.
> 
> ...
> 
> anyways, the main reasoning behind this request was to see how many people got stable results with such high cpu and ram overclocks. Also, how many people actually benefit from gpu overclocking on a socket 939 platform now days.
> 
> With my sli 8800gt, Im doubt I get much or any increase from an overclock on my graphics cards.


They go best in the world by processor, and gpu for points anyways. You can look and break it down any way you want.

Your system could rank up there, why not? Socket 939 systems can only be so good.


----------



## FnkDctr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ny_driver;11967981*
> You can look and break it down any way you want. QUOTE]
> 
> I was tryin to break it down to socket 939.. that website does not. unless im missing something.
> 
> Thanks anyways though.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Figured I'd share with you guys what I've been working on lately. I finally got my rig finished up







.

Top down view after cable management:









24pin shot, and an intake fan:









Rear exhaust, 8pin shot:









All PSU cables going behind the motherboard tray, the "pull" intake fan from my HDD cage:









Powered on:









Showing the push/pull intakes:









Shot of the CPU cooler from the bottom:









Shot of the CPU cooler from the top:









My complete setup (please, PLEASE ignore the mess, my rig is in the garage, and that's not my mess around it):









Monitors <3:









My rig from the front (pulled out the restrictive fan filters in the front):


----------



## FnkDctr

Kickass rig and wiring man. my only questions are, can we see the other side lol. j/k and umm what about the 2 reds plugs on the psu unit? im pretty sure those are dedicated for PCI-Express. I know my psu has em. This inspires me to take full tower shots now!

http://3dmark.com/3dm06/12579874

Thats for anyone who wants to compete socket 939


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FnkDctr;11975413*
> Kickass rig and wiring man. my only questions are, can we see the other side lol. j/k and umm what about the 2 reds plugs on the psu unit? im pretty sure those are dedicated for PCI-Express. I know my psu has em. This inspires me to take full tower shots now!
> 
> http://3dmark.com/3dm06/12579874
> 
> Thats for anyone who wants to compete socket 939


Thank you very much







.

I'd show the other side off, but it is SOOO much of a pain to get that panel on. And there's really nothing to show. It doesn't look anywhere NEAR as nice as the front does. There's wires going everywhere on the backside.

The only two modular wires I'm using are both SATA power lines. The hardwired lines HAVE a SATA line on them (exactly the same as the modular ones). There's 3 power plugs on it (same with the modulars). The reason why I'm using 2x modulars is actually pretty stupid now. I cut one plug off each, and zip tied them very neatly together. So I've got 4 SATA power lines, and they're spaced absolutely PERFECTLY apart from each other to plug into my drives. With the rest of the mess back there, it doesn't matter anymore....but oh well.

I wish I could still compete in Socket 939 stuff







. I miss my Opty pretty badly still.


----------



## el gappo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;11975946*
> Thank you very much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I'd show the other side off, but it is SOOO much of a pain to get that panel on. And there's really nothing to show. It doesn't look anywhere NEAR as nice as the front does. There's wires going everywhere on the backside.
> 
> The only two modular wires I'm using are both SATA power lines. The hardwired lines HAVE a SATA line on them (exactly the same as the modular ones). There's 3 power plugs on it (same with the modulars). The reason why I'm using 2x modulars is actually pretty stupid now. I cut one plug off each, and zip tied them very neatly together. So I've got 4 SATA power lines, and they're spaced absolutely PERFECTLY apart from each other to plug into my drives. With the rest of the mess back there, it doesn't matter anymore....but oh well.
> 
> I wish I could still compete in Socket 939 stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I miss my Opty pretty badly still.


What you need? A cpu?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *el gappo;11976009*
> What you need? A cpu?


I don't have ANY 939 gear left. All I've got is what's pictured above.....and a dead 8600GTS.


----------



## N2Gaming

Here PIO just in case you wanted to restock up on your 939 gear.

Used and New 939 CPU's

http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/ProductDetail.jsp?ProductCode=80699-5-OP

http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/ProductDetail.jsp?ProductCode=80699-5


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FnkDctr;11965348*
> The hardware isnt confirmed with the chipset. they had like a red or orange mark near most the top scores.
> 
> Also if you look at some of the nforce4 chipsets, the boards they list dont support the cpu they have listed.
> 
> my 24/7 speed of 2.75ghz 500mhz ram, stock graphics cards scored me 10990. The "Best in the world" according to your website is 12,000 for my chipset and was an amd2 +6000. So id imagine I am already setting "world records" unless I am missing something.
> 
> Like I said, orb has more detailed comparisons, but I wonder if people are cheating the hardware confirmations and was wondering if you could also post one by socket type 939. That was my original question.


As Kryton said, a lot of boards don't officially support a certain CPU --yet they still work anyway. Such was the case with my first build. I used an A8N32SLi deluxe and it didn't, and probably still doesn't, officially support Opteron CPUs', yet they work just fine.
That is probably the case with your board as well.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FnkDctr;11965348*
> 
> anyways, the main reasoning behind this request was to see how many people got stable results with such high cpu and ram overclocks. Also, how many people actually benefit from gpu overclocking on a socket 939 platform now days.
> 
> With my sli 8800gt, Im doubt I get much or any increase from an overclock on my graphics cards.


I doubt your're getting any benefit from the overclock on your GPUs'. I know that with my 9600 GSO's (8800GTS), there was very little improvement when going from a single GPU to dual. Overclocking the CPU helped more than overclocking the cards themselves.
However, I was able to get some pretty nice results with overclocking a single card. With my Opty 180 @ 3.0, and with one GSO overclocked by approximately 30%, I was able to run Crysis @ 1680x1050, 16xAA, 16xAF all on high (DX9), and average 25.3 FPS in the benchmark. I was rather impressed quite honestly.

Regardless, 939 CPUs' simply don't have enough processing power for GPUs' more than 8800's. Even those get bottlenecked quite a bit by 939's. For instance, I only gained 1000 points in 3Dm06 from one card to two. Yet on my i7, I believe it added approx 2700 points.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mdymes;11965888*
> My daily Driver is a 939 - Looking to upgrade this year though. Running opensuse 11.2, for music, internet and some virtulization. Still a great machine.
> 
> Vendor: "AuthenticAMD"
> Model: 15.47.2 "AMD Athlon(tm) 64 Processor 3500+"
> Features: fpu,vme,de,pse,tsc,msr,pae,mce,cx8,apic,sep,mtrr,pge,mca,cmov,pat,pse36,clflush,mmx,fxsr,sse,sse2,syscall,nx,mmxext,fxsr_opt,lm,3dnowext,3dnow,up,pni,lahf_lm
> Clock: 2200 MHz
> BogoMips: 4422.76
> Cache: 512 kb


Welcome!







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;11972078*
> Figured I'd share with you guys what I've been working on lately. I finally got my rig finished up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> My rig from the front (pulled out the restrictive fan filters in the front):


For a hot minute there, I thought it was a NF4 DFI board in there.









Lookin good Pio.







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N2Gaming;11978541*
> Here PIO just in case you wanted to restock up on your 939 gear.
> 
> Used and New 939 CPU's
> 
> http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/ProductDetail.jsp?ProductCode=80699-5-OP
> 
> http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/ProductDetail.jsp?ProductCode=80699-5


OMG! That's expensive for those.







I bought one for $30 brand spankin new!


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;11975946*
> Thank you very much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I'd show the other side off, but it is SOOO much of a pain to get that panel on. And there's really nothing to show. It doesn't look anywhere NEAR as nice as the front does. There's wires going everywhere on the backside.


HA HA HA! Thats why we want to see it. To be a PITA.









Nice f***in rig, and clean. I should show off the phenom II ES rig I just through in my Antec 902. DFI M2RSH (oh yeah Pio, pwnd, nice board), 2x1gb Corsair 1066, gtx 275, etc.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N2Gaming;11978541*
> Here PIO just in case you wanted to restock up on your 939 gear.
> 
> Used and New 939 CPU's
> 
> http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/ProductDetail.jsp?ProductCode=80699-5-OP
> 
> http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/ProductDetail.jsp?ProductCode=80699-5


Don't forget about these guys:
http://www.starmicroinc.com/cgi/commerce.cgi?display=home

They have some really good prices BUT some of the prices are crazy too. You can find a good deal if you simply check the listings carefully.


----------



## SwishaMane

http://www.starmicroinc.com/cgi/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=ADAFX57DAA5BN

Move the decimal one to the left, lol


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackOmega;11978750*
> -snip-
> 
> For a hot minute there, I thought it was a NF4 DFI board in there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lookin good Pio.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -snip-


You've got a keen eye my friend







. Unfortunately your chipsets are slightly off. That's clearly a DFI board as we all grew to love from our 939 gear, which is why I was so anxious to jump on it when Blitz jumped ship. But its sadly a 790GX / SB600 board, only board I have left







.

I can't necessarily say that I'm not impressed with it. 3.7GHz on a C2 Athlon quad certainly is a feat on its own. But I honestly do believe its the board holding me back on this one. I know I could get a good 2800+ on my NB, since I'm not afraid of some voltage. And I'll bet with an 8 phase power system, I could probably stabilize at 3.8-3.9 on this chip.

Oh well, you live and learn







. And even my measly $25 Athlon quad...its still MORE than enough power for any gaming I do, or any encoding I throw at it. It beats the snot out of my old dual core Opteron in anything. I just miss the Opty because it was such an epically golden chip.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane;11979219*
> HA HA HA! Thats why we want to see it. To be a PITA.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice f***in rig, and clean. I should show off the phenom II ES rig I just through in my Antec 902. DFI M2RSH (oh yeah Pio, pwnd, nice board), 2x1gb Corsair 1066, gtx 275, etc.


Thanks Swisha. You have the M2RSH?







I want that board. I want it badly. Hey, at least I'm honestly about it







. If I had cash, I would sooo shoot you an offer on it







. Best I could offer is a trade, but that's not entirely fair. You better cherish that board, and love on it daily. The M2RSH is one gorgeous piece of equipment.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;11979466*
> You've got a keen eye my friend
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . . But its sadly a 790GX / SB600 board, only board I have left
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> The M2RSH is one gorgeous piece of equipment.


But your sig says you are rockin a 790FX-M2RS

I hear those 790FX boards from DFI are some crazy overclockers.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N2Gaming;11979845*
> But your sig says you are rockin a 790FX-M2RS
> 
> I hear those 790FX boards from DFI are some crazy overclockers.


Yeah, I have the M2RS. He's got the M2RS*H*. Huge difference between the two. My board tops out around 300 reference clock, and that with significantly added NB voltages for a quad. His M2RSH can hit up to 500 stable with a duallie, and up to around 350-400 stable with a quad supposedly. And his has CPU-NB voltage adjustments thanks to the SB750.

I believe redhat got his M2RSH up to 500 x 8 for 4.0GHz with a 555BE.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;11979856*
> Yeah, I have the M2RS. He's got the M2RS*H*. Huge difference between the two. My board tops out around 300 reference clock, and that with significantly added NB voltages for a quad. His M2RSH can hit up to 500 stable with a duallie, and up to around 350-400 stable with a quad supposedly. And his has CPU-NB voltage adjustments thanks to the SB750.
> 
> I believe redhat got his M2RSH up to 500 x 8 for 4.0GHz with a 555BE.


Right now Im pushing a super old chip. Temps are -20C off, I think, so 17C is 37C (based on experience.) My max temp at 1.55vcore was 48-50C, not bad, for 3.2ghz.

I tried 206fsb @ 1066, no boot...







That is stock, 1066 at 5-5-5-15 I need to focus max CPU freq. before I OC RAM.


----------



## Blitz6804

Pio: That is a 790*F*X, not a 790GX. Aside of K10s, I though the SB600/SB750 did not matter much, but the lack of a CPU-NB voltage is crippling.


----------



## dlee7283

a 939 setup is still perfect for browsing the internet comfortably and Source gaming.

I am sure even Starcraft II would run fine


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;11980179*
> Pio: That is a 790*F*X, not a 790GX. Aside of K10s, I though the SB600/SB750 did not matter much, but the lack of a CPU-NB voltage is crippling.










Typo, my bad. Both of the DFI boards in question are 790FX boards, not GX. You are correct. My finger was one button over evidentally.

But yeah, the lack of CPU-NB voltage is just one crippling aspect. The other is the non-ability to crank out high reference clock figures with stability. The M2RSH is capable of that, the M2RS isn't. The absolute highest I can pull off is 275 ref. clock stable. Which isn't BAD, but its not what I'm after either.


----------



## FnkDctr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackOmega;11978750*
> As Kryton said, a lot of boards don't officially support a certain CPU --yet they still work anyway. Such was the case with my first build. I used an A8N32SLi deluxe and it didn't, and probably still doesn't, officially support Opteron CPUs', yet they work just fine.
> That is probably the case with your board as well.
> 
> I doubt your're getting any benefit from the overclock on your GPUs'. I know that with my 9600 GSO's (8800GTS), there was very little improvement when going from a single GPU to dual. Overclocking the CPU helped more than overclocking the cards themselves.
> However, I was able to get some pretty nice results with overclocking a single card. With my Opty 180 @ 3.0, and with one GSO overclocked by approximately 30%, I was able to run Crysis @ 1680x1050, 16xAA, 16xAF all on high (DX9), and average 25.3 FPS in the benchmark. I was rather impressed quite honestly.
> 
> Regardless, 939 CPUs' simply don't have enough processing power for GPUs' more than 8800's. Even those get bottlenecked quite a bit by 939's. For instance, I only gained 1000 points in 3Dm06 from one card to two. Yet on my i7, I believe it added approx 2700 points.


Yea, there was one benchmark has like a DFI lanparty UT SLI-DR socket 939 and a core i7 cpu on the score. Pretty lame when you know the board.

Presonally I noticed a huge difference in fps going from one graphics card to 2. mostly the low end speeds. My gpu end no longer hangs or bogs down during intese explosions or movement like it used to.

Also, I know people say that socket 939 bottlenecks 8800gt's in sli, but im getting my zalman editions over 80c at times stock speeds. you know they are getting used at that point since most games dont get them much about idle temps.

3dmark06 defaults dont use anti aliasing or much detail at all. If you look at the settings, its pretty basic. Therefore of course your cpu is doing a lot of the work. If you crank up the detail level, AA, and resolution, you will notice a much larger performance increase going from 1, to 2 graphics cards. even on a socket 939.

BTW do you omega or anyone else have some posted 3dmark06 scores on their website? id love to compare fps to these other systems and see where i stand and need to overclock or test.


----------



## N2Gaming

Yeah pio that would make a little bit of a difference having those other options of the M2RSH
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton;11979307*
> Don't forget about these guys:
> http://www.starmicroinc.com/cgi/commerce.cgi?display=home
> 
> They have some really good prices BUT some of the prices are crazy too. You can find a good deal if you simply check the listings carefully.


Thanks for the link. They are actually pretty close to me. I may drop by there in the near future next time Fry's has a Great "can't pass up" sale. Fry's is right down the street from them in Freakmont.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;11979466*
> You've got a keen eye my friend
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Unfortunately your chipsets are slightly off. That's clearly a DFI board as we all grew to love from our 939 gear, which is why I was so anxious to jump on it when Blitz jumped ship. But its sadly a 790GX / SB600 board, only board I have left
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I can't necessarily say that I'm not impressed with it. 3.7GHz on a C2 Athlon quad certainly is a feat on its own. But I honestly do believe its the board holding me back on this one. I know I could get a good 2800+ on my NB, since I'm not afraid of some voltage. And I'll bet with an 8 phase power system, I could probably stabilize at 3.8-3.9 on this chip.
> 
> Oh well, you live and learn
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . And even my measly $25 Athlon quad...its still MORE than enough power for any gaming I do, or any encoding I throw at it. It beats the snot out of my old dual core Opteron in anything. I just miss the Opty because it was such an epically golden chip.


YOur Opty for sure was definitely a very nice chip. Wish my 165 was half as good as yours. On a good day with really low temps I had trouble getting it over 2600.









And your quad is definitely better than my 720. While I could get 3700MHz out of it, it was at the cost of major RAM speed. I wound up getting better performance @ 3600. Although1600 CAS 7 out of a C2 was just fine with me.

Although, I'm definitely thinking about getting an AM3 DFi board.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FnkDctr;11988525*
> Yea, there was one benchmark has like a DFI lanparty UT SLI-DR socket 939 and a core i7 cpu on the score. Pretty lame when you know the board.












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FnkDctr;11988525*
> Presonally I noticed a huge difference in fps going from one graphics card to 2. mostly the low end speeds. My gpu end no longer hangs or bogs down during intese explosions or movement like it used to.
> 
> Also, I know people say that socket 939 bottlenecks 8800gt's in sli, but im getting my zalman editions over 80c at times stock speeds. you know they are getting used at that point since most games dont get them much about idle temps.
> 
> 3dmark06 defaults dont use anti aliasing or much detail at all. If you look at the settings, its pretty basic. Therefore of course your cpu is doing a lot of the work. If you crank up the detail level, AA, and resolution, you will notice a much larger performance increase going from 1, to 2 graphics cards. even on a socket 939.
> 
> BTW do you omega or anyone else have some posted 3dmark06 scores on their website? id love to compare fps to these other systems and see where i stand and need to overclock or test.


SLI definitely helps with keeping you in the playable framerates, brings the bottom end up. Well, with exception of games such as Crysis.

As for 3dm06 scores. I never officially bought it, so I don't know if it registered mine or not. Although I do believe I was reaching the 13,000 range with my 4870's. However, even @ 3.0 GHz, a 939 could not keep up with it.

As for my GSO's in SLI on 939 gear, IIRC, it was ~12k.


----------



## FnkDctr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackOmega;11988964*
> YOur Opty for sure was definitely a very nice chip. Wish my 165 was half as good as yours. On a good day with really low temps I had trouble getting it over 2600.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And your quad is definitely better than my 720. While I could get 3700MHz out of it, it was at the cost of major RAM speed. I wound up getting better performance @ 3600. Although1600 CAS 7 out of a C2 was just fine with me.
> 
> Although, I'm definitely thinking about getting an AM3 DFi board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SLI definitely helps with keeping you in the playable framerates, brings the bottom end up. Well, with exception of games such as Crysis.
> 
> As for 3dm06 scores. I never officially bought it, so I don't know if it registered mine or not. Although I do believe I was reaching the 13,000 range with my 4870's. However, even @ 3.0 GHz, a 939 could not keep up with it.
> 
> As for my GSO's in SLI on 939 gear, IIRC, it was ~12k.


I remember your GSO's barely breaking 10k. I remember this convo before. You dont need to buy 3dmark to post scores on the web by the way.

Anyone else have actual scores? ones that are posted?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FnkDctr*


I remember your GSO's barely breaking 10k. I remember this convo before. You dont need to buy 3dmark to post scores on the web by the way.

Anyone else have actual scores? ones that are posted?


 That 10K score was using an Opteron 165 @ 2500MHz. With the 180 they did a lot better. I could bench with it ~ 3050 MHz, and I ran it @ 2900 for 24/7 use.

Also, do you recall which GSO's I said I ran? I have 2 sets, one with 384 MB cards, and one with 768 MB cards.

In folding I've noticed no discernible difference between the two, however, in gaming the 768's obviously do a lot better.

I just downloaded 3dm06 to my folding rig (3800x2, 4GB ram @ 400MHz, 2 x 384MB gso). I'll run it and post my results. I can't OC it at the moment, it only has the stock heatsink from my 720 on it.


----------



## BlackOmega

Okay so I ran it on my folding rig.

Note: My folding rig is running Win 7 pro, so I believe that it ran 3dm06 in DX10 and not 9, so it's not comparable to your score fnkdrspot.


----------



## ny_driver

IIRC I got over 15000 points with 2x4890 and an Opty180. I'll test that again this weekend maybe.


----------



## FnkDctr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackOmega;11990512*
> Okay so I ran it on my folding rig.
> 
> Note: My folding rig is running Win 7 pro, so I believe that it ran 3dm06 in DX10 and not 9, so it's not comparable to your score fnkdrspot.


yea 6k is right around 11k last time I checked. lol.

Like I said, your best was around 10k. I havent seen anyone around or over 12k yet on a socket 939.

And if you got 12k in the past, ORB should have the saved results. post it.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N2Gaming;11979845*
> But your sig says you are rockin a 790FX-M2RS
> 
> I hear those 790FX boards from DFI are some crazy overclockers.


The 790FX chipset is the best of the bunch and that's what my MSI has in it. No real suprise to hear the DFI's with this chipset can do some crazy numbers.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FnkDctr*


yea 6k is right around 11k last time I checked. lol.

Like I said, your best was around 10k. I havent seen anyone around or over 12k yet on a socket 939.

And if you got 12k in the past, ORB should have the saved results. post it.


Look at his clock speed. His CPU was at 2.0GHz.

I got 11129 points with my 939 rig and a single 8800GTS 512. I want to say I broke 12k with my 4850, but I don't have any proof of that.

Note, this wasn't my 11129 run, this is just the only screenshot I have left anymore. My 11129 run was with the 8800GTS clocked higher, and my CPU was at 3.1GHz.









Again, I'm fairly certain I broke 12k with my 4850.


----------



## FnkDctr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Look at his clock speed. His CPU was at 2.0GHz.

I got 11129 points with my 939 rig and a single 8800GTS 512. I want to say I broke 12k with my 4850, but I don't have any proof of that.

Note, this wasn't my 11129 run, this is just the only screenshot I have left anymore. My 11129 run was with the 8800GTS clocked higher, and my CPU was at 3.1GHz.
Again, I'm fairly certain I broke 12k with my 4850.


You remember getting the score 11129 exactly? Or do you have the results posted on orb? I mean it usually saves them like it did mine.

http://3dmark.com/3dm06/12579874

and last I read, 2x8800gt in sli were better than a 4850. please correct me if im wrong.

Honestly, the 3dmark06 is the one contest id love to try. and to be honest, i'd love to use 3dmark03, since the one test uses audio which my sb x-fi gamer will kick in and perform even higher.

looks like my 11454 is the confirmed highest, and I didnt even try hard. stock card speeds, medium overclock on cpu.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FnkDctr*


You remember getting the score 11129 exactly? Or do you have the results posted on orb? I mean it usually saves them like it did mine.

http://3dmark.com/3dm06/12579874

and last I read, 2x8800gt in sli were better than a 4850. please correct me if im wrong.

Honestly, the 3dmark06 is the one contest id love to try. and to be honest, i'd love to use 3dmark03, since the one test uses audio which my sb x-fi gamer will kick in and perform even higher.

looks like my 11454 is the confirmed highest, and I didnt even try hard. stock card speeds, medium overclock on cpu.


Yes, it was 11129 exactly, on the dot. 3DMark06, running Windows XP, and a single 8800GTS 512.

Remember, 3DMark06 really doesn't care what GPU's you have, as much as clock speed on the CPU.

Just because 2x 8800GT is better, doesn't mean its going to benchmark any better on 3DMark06, especially with a slower clocked CPU.

And I know I broke 12k with my 4850, and my Opteron at 3.1. I just don't have any proof of it, as those runs have all been overwritten by my sig rig.

And no, no links. I always save screenshots, I've never figured out how to save the links.


----------



## Blitz6804

Make a free 3DMark06 profile and register your 3DM06 key with the profile. Every time you run it, hit the submit results to ORB button. This does not work with a trial version of 3DM06 of course.


----------



## SwishaMane

My 3dmark06 scores for a dual core 939 and a 8800gtx was always 10500 to 11500, stock vs. OC'ed, I dont recall if I ever broke 12k.

Wait, actually... yeah, I dont think I ever broke 12k... LOL


----------



## Blitz6804

XP scores higher than Vista or Windows 7. You can artificially inflate your score in the latter by running it in XP compatibility mode with Aero turned off. The problem is, of course, that 3DM06 then reports that the test was ran in XP. Turning off Aero only does not help much, but it does slightly help. If you game with Aero off (not uncommon) it provides a more-accurate benchmark to turn it off there too. All in all though, 3DMxx as a whole is almost entirely worthless given the biases that do not reflect in gaming. (2x HD 3850 score the same as 1x HD 4870x2; the later blows the former out of the water in gaming, sometimes with 2-3 times the FPS.)


----------



## nategr8ns

I just have windows set to turn off Aero whenever there is GPU load. Folding doesn't trigger it, but some games + folding do.


----------



## Blitz6804

How did you set it up to do it automatically?


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


How did you set it up to do it automatically?


I have no idea. When I first switched to 7 I remember seeing that in control panel. Its just that the setting isn't in control panel...

Have you ever gotten those prompts where it says "your computer is running slowly, disabling aero may speed it up?"


----------



## Blitz6804

Only time I ever had that was on my laptop before I upgraded from 2 GB to 4 GB. Never on the desktop.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FnkDctr;11998973*
> yea 6k is right around 11k last time I checked. lol.


Why don't you install windows 7 64 bit, then run 3dm06 in DX10 and lets see how awesome your score is?









Besides, it's A LOT closer to 7k than it is 6k.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FnkDctr;11998973*
> Like I said, your best was around 10k. I havent seen anyone around or over 12k yet on a socket 939.
> 
> And if you got 12k in the past, ORB should have the saved results. post it.


ORB hasn't saved a single one of my runs --I've only ran the trial edition. Hence, when you search for a 939 with dual GSO's, nothing shows up.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FnkDctr;12012743*
> You remember getting the score 11129 exactly? Or do you have the results posted on orb? I mean it usually saves them like it did mine.
> 
> http://3dmark.com/3dm06/12579874
> 
> and last I read, 2x8800gt in sli were better than a 4850. please correct me if im wrong.
> 
> Honestly, the 3dmark06 is the one contest id love to try. and to be honest, i'd love to use 3dmark03, since the one test uses audio which my sb x-fi gamer will kick in and perform even higher.
> 
> looks like my 11454 is the confirmed highest, and I didnt even try hard. stock card speeds, medium overclock on cpu.


With 1 of my 4870's, and my old opty 180 I beat that score. Then I ran with 2 4870's on my CFX3200DR. However, I was so disappointed with the results I went with AM3 and scored 19,900 in 3Dm06 with the exact same cards and a 720 @ 3.6.


----------



## el gappo

Finnaly an expert on ebay in the UK. Off it you lot









Gonna play with me dfi ultra D again today, need some barbs to get this chipset block on.


----------



## FnkDctr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


ORB hasn't saved a single one of my runs --I've only ran the trial edition.

With 1 of my 4870's, and my old opty 180 I beat that score.



ORB does save results with trial editions. Always has for me... I never paid for one once or used a pirated version.

Also. I love how you claim to have beaten my score with 1 4870 when I know for a fact you could never beat my score in the past.

Funny how you claim things without proof. Always.

Well I scored 20k on my IBM aptiva using a xpert98 pci card with a pentium II 333mhz overclocked to 334mhz and a 13inch crt.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FnkDctr*


ORB does save results with trial editions. Always has for me... I never paid for one once or used a pirated version.

Also. I love how you claim to have beaten my score with 1 4870 when I know for a fact you could never beat my score in the past.

Funny how you claim things without proof. Always.

Well I scored 20k on my IBM aptiva using a xpert98 pci card with a pentium II 333mhz overclocked to 334mhz and a 13inch crt.


You do realize that 3DMark06 is 110% CPU bound, right? A higher clock CPU is going to beat out a lower clocked one with a lesser video card







.


----------



## ny_driver

I think I can beat that score with 1 x 4890 and my 4200+. I'll try tomorrow. I think I got ~15,000 with 2x4890 and an Opteron 180 @ 3GHz. Of course I have no proof of this right now, but I've been wanting to get another CFX capable 939 board a nice dual-core Opty just so I can prove it.


----------



## SwishaMane

How do I get my ES into the nostalgics category? 3.4 on water for a RAREST of the rare chip, is truly epic. I think it deserves it.


----------



## Blitz6804

If you can just give me a copy of the CPUz validation here I will make a note to add it. (Same goes to you ny_driver if you want your insane run on the roster.) I know I am terrible updating lately, but I will get to it eventually.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;12100187*
> If you can just give me a copy of the CPUz validation here I will make a note to add it. (Same goes to you ny_driver if you want your insane run on the roster.) I know I am terrible updating lately, but I will get to it eventually.


I have had quite a few nice 939 clocks, and I still have all the cpus. I'll send you some cpu-z validations. Thanks.


----------



## Kryton

Hey guys, figured out something here. 
Some of you might recall the time I popped the top on my 165 and yesterday I tried it again in my system. I also tested the Ultra D to see whether it had been hurt by the coolant leak. 
The board is OK and the 165's problems are with core 1. 
I can try a PI run with both cores and it immediately throws an error, using core 1 by itself results in the same but when using core 0 by itself, it completes the run, no prob. As expected with this chip, still runs hot in comparison to the others even delidded and that's why I took the lid off in the first place. When I did that, I got into one of the diodes and nicked it good and that has to be the problem going on here.

I'll need to get a pic or scan of the chip and post it up so you guys can see it too. I'm wondering if doing a "Repair" with a pencil might possibly work to redraw or connect the broken connections to the diodes legs to their connection points would work or not.


----------



## nategr8ns

If the core isn't functioning, trying a repair couldn't hurt.

I'm just "smegging" dumbfounded that the single core works at all and that the processor can still boot into windows with the damage.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


If the core isn't functioning, trying a repair couldn't hurt.

I'm just "smegging" dumbfounded that the single core works at all and that the processor can still boot into windows with the damage.











The core itself still works but it seems to be a problem affecting the IMC with the core. That's why it will still work as a dual core, even shows up as a 165 in CPU-Z but the issues happen when trying something involving like WPrime or PI using that core alone. 
It also affects other things too but I think that's the deal here. If I can fix that, it'll be OK but if not that's the price I'll pay for delidding it but at least there was good reason to try it.


----------



## ny_driver

You could also try a circuit writer conductive pen. You will need adequate means of magnifying it though. And I don't know how fine or accurate you can draw with it, but I'll find out tomorrow.









EDIT: I made my 170 a single channel dual-core chip doing that Kryton.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


You could also try a circuit writer conductive pen. You will need adequate means of magnifying it though. And I don't know how fine or accurate you can draw with it, but I'll find out tomorrow.










It would have to be extremely accurate and that's why I haven't tried it yet. The legs are tiny and to get it right will take time - That's also why I wanted to try it with a pencil, I can erase the mistakes I'll surely make along the way. Keep it sharp and if it could work, it just might do the trick.


----------



## ny_driver

If all you need to do is bridge a leg you should be able to do that.


----------



## SplashScreen

anyone here have a asus sli premium? They have a really bad history for not wanting to boot up, anyone know the fix for it besides sending it to asus which will charge a crazy amount for a resistor or something im guessing. I was wanting to use this as a media center instead of just a paper weight


----------



## ny_driver

Does it beep? Does it do anything? You need to be way more specific.


----------



## FnkDctr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


You do realize that 3DMark06 is 110% CPU bound, right? A higher clock CPU is going to beat out a lower clocked one with a lesser video card







.


To a certain degree maybe. But does that even make sense in your own head?

Of course there is a bottleneck on cpu for 3dmark06. I said this many posts. Because the detail level on default is turned to LOW.

But if you turn up the detail and ANTI ALIASING. then OF COURSE IT IS MORE GPU heavy.

To say the entire program is 110% cpu just because the default settings doesnt mean u cant change them or configure the program to do other things? I benchmark at all detail levels, not just default.

Last time I checked, I never left games at default video settings, so why would I for 3dmark06 if im truely benchmarking?

Regardless, still never seen anything above 12k on a socket 939 with PROOF. :yawn


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FnkDctr*


To a certain degree maybe. But does that even make sense in your own head?

Of course there is a bottleneck on cpu for 3dmark06. I said this many posts. Because the detail level on default is turned to LOW.

But if you turn up the detail and ANTI ALIASING. then OF COURSE IT IS MORE GPU heavy.

To say the entire program is 110% cpu just because the default settings doesnt mean u cant change them or configure the program to do other things? I benchmark at all detail levels, not just default.

Last time I checked, I never left games at default video settings, so why would I for 3dmark06 if im truely benchmarking?

Regardless, still never seen anything above 12k on a socket 939 with PROOF. :yawn


If you want proof, then go scour this thread. I've posted my proof of 11129 here with a single 8800GTS 512. It's here somewhere. I'm not going to bother myself to hunt for it though.

And if you are truly a bencher, then you would know that to get accurate results, you have to use default settings, so you can compare with everybody else.


----------



## Blitz6804

420Assassin is now finally on the off-site roster (waiting since Feb 2010)

Acoma_Andy is now finally on the off-site roster (waiting since Feb 2010)

Animal Mother is now finally a nostalgic (waiting since Mar 2010)

CarlR is now finally on the off-site roster (waiting since Jun 2010)

cdoublejj is now on the off-site roster

Chuckclc is now finally a nostalgic (waiting since May 2010)

CiX is now on the off-site roster

CorpussStalker is now finally on the off-site roster (waiting since Apr 2010)

crunchie is now finally on the off-site roster (waiting since Jul 2010)

diwit13 is still on the pending list because he never gave a link

Enfluenza is now a nostalgic

FlawleZ is now on the off-site roster

Fusion Racing's 3200+ has been updated finally (waiting since Mar 2010) and reformatted him to match the new format

Grim is now finally a nostalgic (waiting since Dec 2008) {Oops? In my defense, he never actually said what CPU he had until Nov 2010, so I had him on the nostalgic pending list between then}

GsxR1000Ryda is now on the off-site roster

Havokr505 is now finally on the off-site roster (waiting since Jun 2010)

Somehow, HothBase and Hueristic got spliced; this has been fixed

jammy4041 is now on the off-site roster

jimwest's 3800+ has been updated and reformatted him to match the new format

Kip69 is still on the pending list because he never gave a link

mcoil112 is still on the pending list because he never gave a link

mdymes is pending until he responds to my PM

mnorris80 is now on the off-site roster

ny_driver:
Added Opty 154
Added Opty 180
Updated Opty 180
Added Opty 152
Added FX-55
Added X2 4200+
Added 3700+
Added FX-53
NZi is now finally on the off-site roster (waiting since Mar 2010)

Obakemono is now finally a nostalgic (waiting since Apr 2010)

Pir is now on the off-site roster

Sin100 is now finally a nostalgic (waiting since May 2010)

smartasien is now finally on the off-site roster (waiting since Mar 2010)

Smash91 is now finally on the off-site roster (waiting since Apr 2010)

spamination is now finally a nostalgic (waiting since May 2010)

spiderm0nkey is now finally a nostalgic (waiting since Jan 2010) {Oops}

SwishaMane is now finally a nostgalic (waiting since Nov 2009) {Note: I only made you a nostalgic because you wanted to be, you qualify to be active if you want to.}

Th0m0_202 is now finally on the off-site roster (waiting since Mar 2010)

Tomass is now on the off-site roster

vAcc is now on the off-site roster

vspec is now on the off-site roster

ZFedora is now on the off-site roster

Lastly, I fixed the formatting of eviloverclocker through Fusion Racing. That concludes the changes I have done so far on the off-site roster. Now all, complete, pending applications are cleared. I still have to fix formatting issues however.

Pio: Last I checked, 11,129 is less than 12,000...

Pio and Fnk: Why can't we get along? Just ignore each other if you are always going to insult each other.


----------



## 420Assassin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


If you want proof, then go scour this thread. I've posted my proof of 11129 here with a single 8800GTS 512. It's here somewhere. I'm not going to bother myself to hunt for it though.

And if you are truly a bencher, then you would know that to get accurate results, you have to use default settings, so you can compare with everybody else.


hey pio this the post u didnt wanna bother lookin for
http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...l#post12001190

EDIT: for the off site roster My board isnt the UT expert version just straight LP NF4 SLI-DR


EDIT2: HaHa.. But Also got a HR05-SLI/IFX with some AS5 its still cureing.. but here some pics and temp results under linx.. here link theres like 3 posts total, did testing on low power under volted profile 2GHz 8x250 @1.2V DDR500. And oc profile 10x275 @ 1.45V
http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...l#post12097961


----------



## Blitz6804

Everyone's a critic... J/K

I changed it locally, and you will notice it the next time I upload.


----------



## 420Assassin

haha thnx.. thats one thing with lp some models look exactly same but perform a bit diff with oc and its temps.. my buddies expert venus boards chipset stays at like 40c with stock fan..


----------



## Blitz6804

And CPUz makes no distinction between them. It is very annoying to try to keep them ordered I will tell you that much. ALMOST as bad as weird stuff like "09AC." I *HATE* OEM boards.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


...you qualify to be active if you want to.


No thanks, my 939 setup is out of my bench case for testing my phII ES, currently 3.2ghz stable from 2.3ghz stock, almost 1 ghz OC, w00t. 939 ES is retired. I think I completely screwed both IMCs,







. It will run stock, but thats IT, lol.


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, the thing is, you're still an active MEMBER, even if your hardware is not. (Which is why I am not listed down in the nostalgics. Yet.)


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;12105312*
> If you want proof, then go scour this thread. I've posted my proof of 11129 here with a single 8800GTS 512. It's here somewhere. I'm not going to bother myself to hunt for it though.
> 
> And if you are truly a bencher, then you would know that to get accurate results, you have to use default settings, so you can compare with everybody else.


Haven't tried anything with that bench but now I'm intrigued. I'll have to see where I stand with what I currently have running.


----------



## ny_driver

I was trying with my Expert/4200+/4890, but the 4200+ is too weak for 3dmark06.
I was out in the garage and the temperature was -4C, and ~-15C outside.
I'm running some spi32M right now...that gives me plenty of time to warm up.









EDIT: grabbed me #4 in superpi32M.......might be able to grab#3 when I throw it on the chiller bench tomorrow.

EDITagain: lol Blitz I noticed that too, and thanks for updating the roster.


----------



## 420Assassin

Not bad 3DMark05 got 13719, On 06 got 9721. Default settings, did change resolution to match monitor native


----------



## SwishaMane

My best 939 3DMark06 run is like 11,500, thats a 3ghz dual core with a decently OC'ed 8800gtx. I couldnt even break that score with my gtx 275, which is lightyears ahead of a 8800gtx.

EDIT: I take that back, I broke 12k for first time ever on a 939 with my gtx 275, but that was only ONCE..., and during our contest. I think I got lucky, lol


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


roster updates


Blitz, do you think you could pull my ~3.2GHz CPUz from the winter clocking thread?

Actually, I just realized I didn't post one at 3.1xx







. I would do it again, except that I just finally reinstalled Win7 after borking it totally for the contest...

edit: I'd also like to get some input on current issues...
Randomly around the time I installed my new GTX 285, Minecraft (in Java) started causing blue-screens and/or lockups whenever I started/joined a game.
The lockups started spreading to other Java programs.
Then HL2.exe (team fortress 2 in my case) started crashing.
I still had the lockups with other graphics cards in Minecraft.
Then the computer started locking up without anything running, with/without Folding (GPU).

I reinstalled Windows.

Lockups still happening without anything installed. I just had a lockup at the login screen when I left it there for 20 minutes during dinner.

When the lockups first started happening, I had zero problems running OCCT/Prime/Memtest/Windows Memory Diag. Even SMART tests and drive self checks (through SeaTools) were fine. Only with minecraft.
Now the lockups are happening whenever they feel like it.

Could the issue be with my motherboard/processor? With a hard drive?

I just realized I haven't tried running at stock clocks, but I figure since they were OCCT stable they should be fine... I did lower the memory clocks to 180MHz (3-3-3. tRAS at 6, tRC at 7, 2T), but there are 4Dimms.

I think I fixed it by setting clocks/timings to stock/auto...


----------



## FnkDctr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


And if you are truly a bencher, then you would know that to get accurate results, you have to use default settings, so you can compare with everybody else.


That is the worst statement i read yet.

If you are a REAL bencher, then you would test at ALL settings for bottlenecks.

That is what a REAL bencher does. Doesnt assume that every game is low detail or that the default settings apply to everything.

I can compare my OWN stats to my OWN stats at other than default settings. If I wanted to compare to everyone else, I'd come on this forum and ask for people to randomly spit out numbers and lies. Ohh wait, I think ill stick to orb since those are actual documented results and not just people claiming to achieve something they never have.

But a TRUE BENCHMARK TESTER would test ON ALL SETTINGS. Not just default. Overload your system some time, then talk temps and overclocking.

Still waiting for proof of a 12k socket 939 system on 3dmark06. DEFAULT SETTINGS to make people happy.


----------



## SwishaMane

I cant provide proof, it was one lucky run during the 939 contest. Everything OC'ed to max stable settings, extra fans, way extra vcore cpu was in the 3.180ghz area on like 1.7vcore, lol.

Wait, I'm just lying because I need a 939 epeen, yeah, not really. If I wanted, I could re-install my entire 939 setup, an get 11,500 DEFAULT SETTINGS with an 8800gtx, but I wouldn't waste my time. I'm currently benching my phenomII ES.

EDIT: I forgot tho, mebbe its because I try to prepare the computer a little bit too before a 3dmark run. Like, disable LAN controller so theres so activity during test, close all background progs, etc.


----------



## FnkDctr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*


If I wanted, I could re-install my entire 939 setup, an get 11,500 DEFAULT SETTINGS with an 8800gtx, but I wouldn't waste my time.


This is the socket 939 section of the forum and you are wasting OUR time with assumptions.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FnkDctr*


This is the socket 939 section of the forum and you are wasting OUR time with assumptions.


It's not as assumption. Like I said, I scored 11129 with a single 8800GTS and my Opty. There was PROOF for you a few pages back thanks to Swisha I believe, he dug it up. That was with a SINGLE 8800GTS, on a dirty Windows installation, and I hadn't done any sort of optimizations for benchmarking either. I'm sure an SLI setup or a stronger single GPU setup with a 3.0GHz+ duallie would easily break 12k. So get over yourself.


----------



## 420Assassin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Look at his clock speed. His CPU was at 2.0GHz.

I got 11129 points with my 939 rig and a single 8800GTS 512. I want to say I broke 12k with my 4850, but I don't have any proof of that.

Note, this wasn't my 11129 run, this is just the only screenshot I have left anymore. My 11129 run was with the 8800GTS clocked higher, and my CPU was at 3.1GHz.









Again, I'm fairly certain I broke 12k with my 4850.


This the post you were lookin / referring too pio







posted it on previous page as a link.. will look some more see if there was an earlier one this week old


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FnkDctr*


Still waiting for proof of a 12k socket 939 system on 3dmark06. DEFAULT SETTINGS to make people happy.


Here ya go. 
http://hwbot.org/community/submissio...mb_12024_marks

Read the rules and you'll see they state the bench must be ran at default settings.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *420Assassin*


This the post you were lookin / referring too pio







posted it on previous page as a link.. will look some more see if there was an earlier one this week old


Ahh, I thought it was Swisha, my bad. That's CLOSE. I also did runs in a dirty XP install. That was a fresh Vista install (to get DX10 with the new 8800). I got 11129 in a dirty XP install. I thought it was Vista, but that screenshot is right. My dirty XP is what scored 11129. I honestly don't know where that post is at though.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Here ya go. 
http://hwbot.org/community/submissio...mb_12024_marks

Read the rules and you'll see they state the bench must be ran at default settings.


Exactly. Any REAL benchers could care less about how well the benchmarks run at other settings. All they want is to break the records on HWBot. And to do such, you HAVE to use Default settings, period.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FnkDctr*


That is the worst statement i read yet.

If you are a REAL bencher, then you would test at ALL settings for bottlenecks.

That is what a REAL bencher does. Doesnt assume that every game is low detail or that the default settings apply to everything.

I can compare my OWN stats to my OWN stats at other than default settings. If I wanted to compare to everyone else, I'd come on this forum and ask for people to randomly spit out numbers and lies. Ohh wait, I think ill stick to orb since those are actual documented results and not just people claiming to achieve something they never have.

But a TRUE BENCHMARK TESTER would test ON ALL SETTINGS. Not just default. Overload your system some time, then talk temps and overclocking.

Still waiting for proof of a 12k socket 939 system on 3dmark06. DEFAULT SETTINGS to make people happy.


Now you've been proven wrong please be quiet. Thanks Kryton









EDIT: ohh sorry Kryton, that is only HWBot all real results must be submitted to ORB.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ny_driver;12123080*
> Now you've been proven wrong please be quiet. Thanks Kryton
> 
> EDIT: ohh sorry Kryton, that is only HWBot all real results must be submitted to ORB.


If I'm not mistaken, one of the changes with rev 4 requires an ORB validation to be included now.
I know the one I linked to was an older run but it's still valid according to HWbot rules since it was submitted before the requirement was implemented.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ny_driver;12123080*
> Now you've been proven wrong please be quiet. Thanks Kryton
> 
> EDIT: ohh sorry Kryton, that is only HWBot all real results must be submitted to ORB.


If I'm not mistaken, one of the changes with rev 4 requires an ORB validation to be included now with each entry - Could be wrong but believe that's the case now.
I know the one I linked to was an older run but it's still valid according to HWbot rules since it was submitted before the requirement was implemented.

Sorry for the double post - Browser error caused it.


----------



## ny_driver

I never included and ORB link with any submissions so far. I better read the rules before I do any more 3d benching. I like 2d benching anyways for now.


----------



## Kryton

Yeah, if it is a requirement for all 3D submissions now, you'd be better off doing that. I prefer 2D benching myself since I don't have many cards to mess with anyway, just alot of CPU's and MB's.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Here:










Now quit calling me a liar. And that was even at 3.0GHz. 3.1GHz I would have broken 11500 or better. That was my highest stable run on a dirty XP install, before I got a better cooler.


----------



## Miki

No more fighting >_<

If anyone gets insulting to anyone after my post, I'm going to be making example of you with my hammer. ^_^


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Here ya go. 
http://hwbot.org/community/submissio...mb_12024_marks


Did anyone see this?

EDIT: I can't wait to get my new dual core and CFX3200DR. Hopefully my other 4890 survived it's latest bath. If not the plan could change I guess.


----------



## Doom

Is there a socket A club ? I loved my old T-Bird.


----------



## ny_driver

I went and scoured some of the thread for some proof of 12000+ points 3dmark06 scores with my 939 system, and all I could come up with is these alleged scores I got. I never posted a screenshot or anything. I didn't think anyone here would think I was lying. It happened back around April 18th of last year.

Looks like the best I claim to have gotten was 12410points.







(11740+ each card solo)

Opty 180 @ 3GHz/DDR500/2x4890


----------



## ny_driver

Server error must be


----------



## cssorkinman

I recently ran 3d06 on my 939 FX 55 rig with a single 460 gtx. It was in the 8000's. No overclock on the card and mild one on the processor. The thing I learned by doing this was just how big an effect processor speed has on the final score when that is where you are obviously bottlenecked.
At any rate those scores you guys have gotten are,







, most impressive!


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*


I recently ran 3d06 on my 939 FX 55 rig with a single 460 gtx. It was in the 8000's. No overclock on the card and mild one on the processor. The thing I learned by doing this was just how big an effect processor speed has on the final score when that is where you are obviously bottlenecked.
At any rate those scores you guys have gotten are,







, most impressive!


lol...I just ran 3d06 with my FX-55 and 1x 4890, all I got was 72-7400. Dual core makes a huge difference.


----------



## ny_driver

My KACAE 3700+ lives again!!
I tried running it under LN2 and had nothing but problems so I thought it was shot. Weird though now @ 300x10/166 it keeps freezing up, but at 272x11/180 I can run any benchmark. And now that I typed that it sounds obviously like the memory can't handle 250, but it runs benches @ 250. I'll get it figured out.









I only did a couple runs so far, but I think I'll be able to squeeze a couple boints out of it later today.









EDIT: pretty sure I had chipset @ 1.91v with 300FSB, which is probably not necessary. Maybe too much voltage.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ny_driver;12139409*
> My KACAE 3700+ lives again!!
> I tried running it under LN2 and had nothing but problems so I thought it was shot. Weird though now @ 300x10/166 it keeps freezing up, but at 272x11/180 I can run any benchmark. And now that I typed that it sounds obviously like the memory can't handle 250, but it runs benches @ 250. I'll get it figured out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only did a couple runs so far, but I think I'll be able to squeeze a couple boints out of it later today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: pretty sure I had chipset @ 1.91v with 300FSB, which is probably not necessary. Maybe too much voltage.


You shouldn't need much more than 1.75v's to get 300 on the bus if that much - 1.70v's should do it or very close to that voltage.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton;12139731*
> You shouldn't need much more than 1.75v's to get 300 on the bus if that much - 1.70v's should do it or very close to that voltage.


Thanks.








Maybe the chip didn't like that much chipset voltage?.......or maybe there IS something wrong with this board with the 1 light that doesn't work. I haven't really benched on the Expert much, or at all over 300FSB. It won't POST if I set the vcore to 1.55. I have to go 1.525 and add %, then it seems to work. And it's not the chip or the memory. So something is fishy.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nategr8ns;12115181*
> Blitz, do you think you could pull my ~3.2GHz CPUz from the winter clocking thread?
> 
> Actually, I just realized I didn't post one at 3.1xx
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I would do it again, except that I just finally reinstalled Win7 after borking it totally for the contest...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: problem probably solved
> 
> 
> 
> edit: I'd also like to get some input on current issues...
> Randomly around the time I installed my new GTX 285, Minecraft (in Java) started causing blue-screens and/or lockups whenever I started/joined a game.
> The lockups started spreading to other Java programs.
> Then HL2.exe (team fortress 2 in my case) started crashing.
> I still had the lockups with other graphics cards in Minecraft.
> Then the computer started locking up without anything running, with/without Folding (GPU).
> 
> I reinstalled Windows.
> 
> Lockups still happening without anything installed. I just had a lockup at the login screen when I left it there for 20 minutes during dinner.
> 
> When the lockups first started happening, I had zero problems running OCCT/Prime/Memtest/Windows Memory Diag. Even SMART tests and drive self checks (through SeaTools) were fine. Only with minecraft.
> Now the lockups are happening whenever they feel like it.
> 
> Could the issue be with my motherboard/processor? With a hard drive?
> 
> I just realized I haven't tried running at stock clocks, but I figure since they were OCCT stable they should be fine... I did lower the memory clocks to 180MHz (3-3-3. tRAS at 6, tRC at 7, 2T), but there are 4Dimms.
> 
> 
> 
> I think I fixed it by setting clocks/timings to stock/auto...


Just kidding, stock/overclocked, the lockups still happen. I'm also now getting micro-freezes, most notable whenever a new song comes up on Windows Media Player, games freeze.

So irritating, I can't play any games with my friends any more because there's like a 90% chance I crash out.


----------



## ny_driver

Got her up to  3246.79MHz

That was like 3 points right there


----------



## nategr8ns

Guys, please let me know what you've done to get your dual core Opteron MCs to play nice with four 1GB sticks. This is aggravating me!
Currently only using 2 so that programs stop crashing on me. All settings back to auto.


----------



## Blitz6804

Run them on a lower divider. Mine ran on the DDR-333 divider with a 255 MHz HTT giving me DDR-400 exact.


----------



## FnkDctr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Guys, please let me know what you've done to get your dual core Opteron MCs to play nice with four 1GB sticks. This is aggravating me!
Currently only using 2 so that programs stop crashing on me. All settings back to auto.


Thats why I always ran 2x1gb sticks instead of 4gb with 4 sticks. The lower mhz speed and CL2 just really isnt worth the ram unless you are playing huge games.

3mark06. 11,454 still the highest confirmed socket 939 score.

Cant wait til someone can compete so I can overclock my graphics cards and cpu more.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FnkDctr*


Thats why I always ran 2x1gb sticks instead of 4gb with 4 sticks. The lower mhz speed and CL2 just really isnt worth the ram unless you are playing huge games.

3mark06. 11,454 still the highest confirmed socket 939 score.

Cant wait til someone can compete so I can overclock my graphics cards and cpu more.










Why don't you overclock your CPU to 3.0 or 3.1GHz, get the highest your SLI'd cards can go, and see what you do yourself? If you pass 3.0GHz, I'll bet you should break 12k, or come very VERY close to it.


----------



## FnkDctr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Why don't you overclock your CPU to 3.0 or 3.1GHz, get the highest your SLI'd cards can go, and see what you do yourself? If you pass 3.0GHz, I'll bet you should break 12k, or come very VERY close to it.


Because I never needed to.. I will when someone beats 11,454.

And second, my cpu is a bottleneck on DEFAULT 3dmark06 settings. I only overclock my graphics cards if the game will benefit from it. No need to overclock them for no reason. This is what benchmarking at all settings does, not just defaults. You know when and where to overclock, and not just max everything out and assume.

If I overclock my graphics cards at the same cpu core speed, the results will be almost exactly the same.

P.S. my 11,454 was a dirty install of windows. Verrrry dirty.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FnkDctr*


Thats why I always ran 2x1gb sticks instead of 4gb with 4 sticks. The lower mhz speed and CL2 just really isnt worth the ram unless you are playing huge games.

3mark06. 11,454 still the highest confirmed socket 939 score.

Cant wait til someone can compete so I can overclock my graphics cards and cpu more.










Minecraft has been getting RAM heavy on me, which is why I spent the $50 getting this second 2GB kit. Also, DDR400 is still too high... I was running them at like 180MHz and it was still stuttering on me at the desktop with stuff open.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FnkDctr*


Because I never needed to.. I will when someone beats 11,454.

And second, my cpu is a bottleneck on DEFAULT 3dmark06 settings. I only overclock my graphics cards if the game will benefit from it. No need to overclock them for no reason. This is what benchmarking at all settings does, not just defaults. You know when and where to overclock, and not just max everything out and assume.

If I overclock my graphics cards at the same core speed, the results will be almost exactly the same.

P.S. my 11,454 was a dirty install of windows. Verrrry dirty.


Correction:
Your CPU is a bottleneck on ALL games released later than the K8 architecture, and even some that were in the same era. I'm in no way being rude or mean here, but it is the truth. I just came from my 939 rig to my sig rig (with a single 4850), and the increases were INSANE, just by getting a better CPU.

If you really were interested in actually benchmarking, you would strive to get the highest scores possible, period.


----------



## Blitz6804

A true overclocker will overclock everything to the absolute limits just because they are there. The limits, of course, will greatly depend on how crazy you are. (Pio's limits, for example, tend to be a fair bit higher than mine.) Stopping at an overclock simply because it is "good enough," and not because, in your opinion, it is as high as the part can go is just sloppy.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


A true overclocker will overclock everything to the absolute limits just because they are there. The limits, of course, will greatly depend on how crazy you are. (Pio's limits, for example, tend to be a fair bit higher than mine.) Stopping at an overclock simply because it is "good enough," and not because, in your opinion, it is as high as the part can go is just sloppy.


This.

For example, I am personally not satisfied with my rig until I break 3.8GHz with it stable. I know I can do it, I can just feel it.

But even my rig 110% BONE STOCK, its more than enough for my needs other than GTA IV. Does that mean I leave it at stock? Hell no!


----------



## FnkDctr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Correction:
Your CPU is a bottleneck on ALL games released later than the K8 architecture, and even some that were in the same era.


That is not even close to true. It is the ratio of graphics card to cpu that you must consider.

You are telling me a 6600gt will not bottleneck a socket 939 at 3.0ghz on crysis? bioshock? assassin's creed?

RTS = cpu, FPS(first person shooter) = gpu.

Every cpu, gpu combination has a bottleneck balance, which brings me to the next post.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


A true overclocker will overclock everything to the absolute limits just because they are there. The limits, of course, will greatly depend on how crazy you are. (Pio's limits, for example, tend to be a fair bit higher than mine.) Stopping at an overclock simply because it is "good enough," and not because, in your opinion, it is as high as the part can go is just sloppy.



Exactly what I was mentioning earlier about benchmarking on all settings and not just defaults.

If you havent lowered your system to 10-20fps to test max temps on graphics cards and capabilities, then you truely dont know your system or what benchmarking is all about.

I have ran my cpu over 3.0ghz and graphics cards pretty decent overclocked. Just never ran them all at once on 3dmark06. I prefer sandra to test my system. 3dmark is just a better stability test in my opinion over pi or cpuz. Especially since im a gamer


----------



## ny_driver

Running benches on higher settings, like you would game at, can obviously help determine whether or not your rig is going to be game stable. But that is not what benchmarking is about. It's about running things as high as possible.
--For example starting out 3dmark06 @ 4.5GHz, and on the fly reducing to 4.3GHz for the cpu tests so it doesn't crash, then back up to 4.5 or 4.6 for the canyon flight and arctic freeze.


----------



## Blitz6804

As far as I am concerned, 3DMark (06 or Vantage) is completely and utterly worthless. It is a biased benchmark that has poor resolution (nVidia >> ATi, Intel >> AMD, HD 4870s ~ HD 3850s) that cannot prove stability one bit. A rig passing 3DMark means nothing in terms of stability. I have had a card physically be bad. Every single game I tried crashed it, but 3DMark06 ran it fine. The GPU tests are not long enough, nor strenuous enough. Say what you will about it, I feel its use is severely limited at best, completely worthless at worst.

And since you brought it up, let me ask you this: what do you do if you cannot get your FPS down into the teens? As in, it is physically impossible. Every single setting is on its highest setting and you're still pushing at least 50? Do I lower my CPU then just to be sure my GPUs are struggling for all they are worth?


----------



## FnkDctr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


As far as I am concerned, 3DMark (06 or Vantage) is completely and utterly worthless. It is a biased benchmark that has poor resolution (nVidia >> ATi, Intel >> AMD, HD 4870s ~ HD 3850s) that cannot prove stability one bit. A rig passing 3DMark means nothing in terms of stability. I have had a card physically be bad. Every single game I tried crashed it, but 3DMark06 ran it fine. The GPU tests are not long enough, nor strenuous enough. Say what you will about it, I feel its use is severely limited at best, completely worthless at worst.

And since you brought it up, let me ask you this: what do you do if you cannot get your FPS down into the teens? As in, it is physically impossible. Every single setting is on its highest setting and you're still pushing at least 50? Do I lower my CPU then just to be sure my GPUs are struggling for all they are worth?


First of all, no need to bash 3dmark06 so much. It's a great program and the standard when it comes to graphics testing.

I promise, many of these high cpu scores you see on this forum will NOT be stable on a 3dmark06 test. Which is exactly my point why my 2.8ghz has the best score so far.

Also, if you can't get below 50fps on a game, I think you need to buy some newer ones lol. I can name atleast 5 that would cripple your system to 5fps. Just saying.

Use programs like speedfan to tell how much your gpu is being used. That will give you an idea of where your bottleneck is.

Sometimes a game runs at 40-50fps. When I check speedfan, my gpu temps are low. So i turn up anti aliasing or texture detail, and get them to higher temps and similar fps.

Benchmarking is not about the highest speed's possible, its about testing your system. End story.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Benchmarking


----------



## ny_driver

OK well I was just trying to be nice about it.







You benchmark for whatever reason you want.


----------



## Blitz6804

I am curious why your CPU is only "3DMark stable" at 2.8 GHz. Mine was stable fine at 3.0 GHz, but I did not care much to run 1.450 V 24/7.

Speedfan is no longer installed on my system. MSI Afterburner lets me see both temps and GPU usage realtime, so I find it more useful. Turning up the AA often increases the temperatures, but does not decrease the FPS. Could Metro2033 rip my system a new one? Sure. Do I care? Not in the least, not a game I would be interested in. Of the stuff I have, nothing gives me problems, except maybe for Crysis, but that has its own problems.


----------



## SwishaMane

The highest I could get the ES 3DMark06 stable was 3.168ghz... IDK what the problem is, I was trying to get 3.2 at LEAST, but it could never do it. I have always used 3dmark06 as a standardized, default test to check if an OC I adjusted is performing any better then before. I always went for personal bests. I used to keep my score in my rig, but Ive since switched my main, so my score is now my phII, 5870 rig... Decent I might add, but not insane for the hardware and OC...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


OK well I was just trying to be nice about it.







You benchmark for whatever reason you want.


yes, I like this


----------



## ny_driver

UPDATE: I am proud to announce that I was able to repair the Expert so that it works in DC mode again.







Whoooohooooooo is what I said when she POSTed.

Being stupid I managed to cut 2 single traces right next to the cpu socket. I patched them up with a circuit writer conductive pen. I will add some pictures of the repair work later after I disassemble the rig for mounting in the chiller bench. I may have an Expert for sale soon at a reasonable price.......not the one I repaired though. That's a keeper.

Does anyone have an Expert.........can you set th vcore to 1.55v in BIOS and still POST? On both of my Experts, when I set vcore to 1.55 and special to 1.55 when I hit start it goes through the light sequence then flashes and does it again and again until I reset cmos. I can set any voltage I want by setting to 1.525 + %, but it just seems strange.









See the 2 little dots......not too bad for my 1st time eh? You can see some traces, I'm lucky I didn't cut 2 next to each other because it would have been very difficult to patch them seperately without the patch shorting them out. I'm going to try fixing that maimed Opty170 next, hopefully it's just a single trace too.


----------



## ny_driver

These Venus cores are just ridiculous.







3496MHz easy I'm going for top 20 which is above 3511MHz









UPDATE:







3693MHz.....only 120MHz off the WR and only slightly subzero.









That's a 1693MHz OC so far......







....and I forgot to even put the computer in diagnostic mode.


----------



## nategr8ns

What's diagnostic mode?
And sheesh, those clocks are ridiculous. No wonder you already had to repair that thing!


----------



## ny_driver

run>msconfig>diagnostic mode.............it only loads basic services to leave more memory for your benchmarks.....on XP.


----------



## FnkDctr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;12144582*
> I am curious why your CPU is only "3DMark stable" at 2.8 GHz. Mine was stable fine at 3.0 GHz, but I did not care much to run 1.450 V 24/7.
> 
> Speedfan is no longer installed on my system. MSI Afterburner lets me see both temps and GPU usage realtime, so I find it more useful. Turning up the AA often increases the temperatures, but does not decrease the FPS. Could Metro2033 rip my system a new one? Sure. Do I care? Not in the least, not a game I would be interested in. Of the stuff I have, nothing gives me problems, except maybe for Crysis, but that has its own problems.


I never tried higher. Ever cpu has its limits. 11,454 is still the best on the socket 939 section.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ny_driver;12149110*
> UPDATE: I am proud to announce that I was able to repair the Expert so that it works in DC mode again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Whoooohooooooo is what I said when she POSTed.
> 
> Being stupid I managed to cut 2 single traces right next to the cpu socket. I patched them up with a circuit writer conductive pen. I will add some pictures of the repair work later after I disassemble the rig for mounting in the chiller bench. I may have an Expert for sale soon at a reasonable price.......not the one I repaired though. That's a keeper.
> 
> Does anyone have an Expert.........can you set th vcore to 1.55v in BIOS and still POST? On both of my Experts, when I set vcore to 1.55 and special to 1.55 when I hit start it goes through the light sequence then flashes and does it again and again until I reset cmos. I can set any voltage I want by setting to 1.525 + %, but it just seems strange.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See the 2 little dots......not too bad for my 1st time eh? You can see some traces, I'm lucky I didn't cut 2 next to each other because it would have been very difficult to patch them seperately without the patch shorting them out. I'm going to try fixing that maimed Opty170 next, hopefully it's just a single trace too.


Thats some cool stuff* lol had to edit that


----------



## FnkDctr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nategr8ns;12157323*
> What's diagnostic mode?
> And sheesh, those clocks are ridiculous. No wonder you already had to repair that thing!


it runs system basics. another way to do similar is goto start, msconfig, startup, disable all. services tab. CHECK "hide all microsoft services" disable all, reboot.

I also disable system restore.

turn system to best performance also by right clicking on my computer.

performance tab..


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


What's diagnostic mode?


In my case it's to see if the thing will still work at all after I finish benching + getting water all over the board - Yes, it's happened before.


----------



## 420Assassin

if you wanna do one better than your diag mode check THIS out. Under Popular Content choose you OS

He went thru and turned off every service one by one to see what ones were necessary for windows to run. This way you can have bare minimal running when you wanna bench and regular for everyday use.

He also shows what serviles are enabled during regular boot, safe mode, ect..


----------



## SwishaMane

In windows 7, just use the search bar above the "Start" button, and go to msconfig. Theres the options for Normal boot , Diagnostic boot, you can adjust other things as well.


----------



## ny_driver

I forgot about Black Viper.........but I'm not using normal XP...TinyXP is stripped down pretty well already for benching. I have Tiny7 also.


----------



## 420Assassin

black viper did all os up to win7 so ya its a nice lil site.. im sure took him a wile to test all.


----------



## ny_driver

You should all appreciate this...........I just became a Socket 939 Hardware Junkie....not quite a Guru yet.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I know this isn't 939 related, but I always like sharing my results with you guys....

So far I have THIS overclock going stable for over an hour now:

















I had to use SetFSB with command lines on startup, and K10Stat to set my CPU-NB voltage. But its working, and showing promise.

I boot up at 260 x 14, 10x NB, 8x HT. All the voltages are set already, RAM timings, and divider. All SetFSB does is bring it up to 270. I can't even POST at 2700NB because I lack CPU-NB voltage. Then K10Stat, all it does is boost my CPU-NB voltage up to 1.40v







.

I think with a better board (one that supports CPU-NB voltage), I could break 3.8 and better stable. I'm also limited by the power phases on my board too.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I know this isn't 939 related, but I always like sharing my results with you guys....

So far I have THIS overclock going stable for over an hour now:

















I had to use SetFSB with command lines on startup, and K10Stat to set my CPU-NB voltage. But its working, and showing promise.

I boot up at 260 x 14, 10x NB, 8x HT. All the voltages are set already, RAM timings, and divider. All SetFSB does is bring it up to 270. I can't even POST at 2700NB because I lack CPU-NB voltage. Then K10Stat, all it does is boost my CPU-NB voltage up to 1.40v







.

I think with a better board (one that supports CPU-NB voltage), I could break 3.8 and better stable. I'm also limited by the power phases on my board too.


Looks good!
Just setup my Socket A dualie and messing with it right now. I'll be tinkering with it for a few days or so then get another system going (As usual).


----------



## ny_driver

Opty 165 @ ebay for $39.99 buy it now if anyone is looking for one.







I'd buy it if I had more money.

EDIT: these just came in for $18.........check it out, 2 different batches and 1 is a 3 letter batch whatever that means?









Time to freeze some Venices.









[email protected]







........the core-temp was ~-2C fyi, and yes it did require that much vcore. I didn't just haphazardly crank it up. Now it's time to bench it.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *420Assassin*


if you wanna do one better than your diag mode check THIS out. Under Popular Content choose you OS

He went thru and turned off every service one by one to see what ones were necessary for windows to run. This way you can have bare minimal running when you wanna bench and regular for everyday use.

He also shows what serviles are enabled during regular boot, safe mode, ect..


Great find. I'm sending this to my self in a PM now so that I can always have it handy w/o struggling to find it. +1


----------



## 420Assassin

yup yup glad to help N2.. ya name always stuck with me blackviper.com its unique enough for me to remember


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Great find. I'm sending this to my self in a PM now so that I can always have it handy w/o struggling to find it. +1


Proof you've *got* to be crazy, PM'ing yourself.


----------



## N2Gaming

It's crazy enough that it actually works.


----------



## ny_driver

Breaking News:GURU status achieved using 3200+ Venice


----------



## 420Assassin

ya i mail myself stuff to pm me links. put links on my facebook use it as a temp bookmark lol


----------



## ny_driver

More breaking news: The 2nd chip with the 3 letters is actually a 3500+ Venice, where as the 1st one is a 3200+. Now we know what the 3 letters means on these.









EDIT:anyone observant, unlike me, probably would have noticed that. I thought I had 2 of the same chips since that's what I bought. This is much better.

UPDATE: the 938 pin 3500+ New Castle still works.


----------



## SwishaMane

Dang ny, you need to drop the bones on a fx-60 and throw it on ln2 for us... I used to have 2 of them, they sucked for my experience for some reason.


----------



## ny_driver

I'm sure I'd be disappointed unless it was cheap.

I did find 2 x 3000+ Venice chips for $11 each. I think I know someone that needs one of those.







Bones









LO_OK @ all the points we can get with this baby.









EDIT: I gotta show you guys these before and after I cleaned it pictures of my new free motherboard. It's tinted green because I can't figure out how to untint it.


----------



## SwishaMane

They are about $200 $220. If you spend that much, make sure its a known stepping. Mine were garbage...


----------



## ny_driver

I'll buy one in about 4 years when they are $35.....maybe.


----------



## SwishaMane

Well, looks like I, for some reason, got removed from the nostalgic section. I guess a super rare chip that no one can get there hands on, with a validated OC in the 3.4 range wasn't enough. I guess people running stock dual core Opty's are better...







Oh well...


----------



## ny_driver

I'm not certain on the rules for that, but I'd guess there is a better way to address the situation. If it does indeed qualify I'm sure there was a mistake.


----------



## SwishaMane

Not worried. I just dont get it. A rare ES is more nostalgic then a stock Opty... Regardless of rules, lol


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*


Not worried. I just dont get it. A rare ES is more nostalgic then a stock Opty... Regardless of rules, lol


I think the nostalgic section is just for processor no longer being used (sitting in a closet, sold, et c.).
If that is the case, I'm sure its just a glitch in the system.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane;12234727*
> Not worried. I just dont get it. A rare ES is more nostalgic then a stock Opty... Regardless of rules, lol


The Nostalgic section is for those of you that no longer run 939 gear at all. If your ES is still running, you might have been moved to the proper section perhaps? I haven't checked the rosters personally, so I can't say for sure.

Shoot Joe and / or Blitz a PM about it perhaps? I'm sure its just a mistake somewhere, or you were moved because your rig is functioning.


----------



## SwishaMane

ES has been pulled for awhile now. I have no 939 setup right now. The 902 for the ontest has my DFI M2RSH in it with my PhenomII ES...

EDIT: And for the record, I was confused... I am not in the list on the first page of this thread, BUT I am on the detail roster that goes off site.

*I WAS CONFUSED*

Forgive my ignorance...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*


ES has been pulled for awhile now. I have no 939 setup right now. The 902 for the ontest has my DFI M2RSH in it with my PhenomII ES...

EDIT: And for the record, I was confused... I am not in the list on the first page of this thread, BUT I am on the detail roster that goes off site.

*I WAS CONFUSED*

Ignore my ignorance... wait? LOL


I want to say Tator Tot also has the ability to update the first post. Don't quote me on that. I know Joe is MIA for a while, he's apparantly very busy with work and whatnot. So if you're wanting an update to the first post roster, it might be an idea to PM Tator Tot or somebody else that has the ability to edit it







.


----------



## SwishaMane

Nah, it was never posted on the first page now that I remember. I completely forgot there was an off thread list, and thats where I am posted. I would like to make first post in the thread so everything can see it.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes, I poked Joe several times to update the on-site and his job has kept him from doing so. The off-site is up-to-date, the on-site is not. Maybe if I have time later, I will write up a redo of the first post so all he has to do is copy/paste the new list.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Welp guys, the DFI Expert is dead. I had to use my back-up tax money to get cheap AM3 rig. I will be offering my RAM (2Gb Mushkin DDR500 sets x2) and Opty's 165/170 up for sale or contests when I get everything switched over. Going think it over. Damn shame the mobo died. The thing OC'ed my chips/ram like mad.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Welp guys, the DFI Expert is dead. I had to use my back-up tax money to get cheap AM3 rig. I will be offering my RAM (2Gb Mushkin DDR500 sets x2) and Opty's 165/170 up for sale or contests when I get everything switched over. Going think it over. Damn shame the mobo died. The thing OC'ed my chips/ram like mad.


Aww man, that's a huge bummer







. What'd you get for the AM3 setup?


----------



## GuardianOdin

I had to make it as cheap as possible. I can't find my original XP CD or the key. Hopefully these are good choices. Everything but the Mobo is in already.

Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit 

Mushkin Enhanced Silverline 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3

AMD Athlon II X3 445 Rana 3.1GHz

GIGABYTE GA-MA78LMT-S2 AM3 AMD 760G Micro ATX


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


I had to make it as cheap as possible. I can't find my original XP CD or the key. Hopefully these are good choices. Everything but the Mobo is in already.

Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit 

Mushkin Enhanced Silverline 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3

AMD Athlon II X3 445 Rana 3.1GHz

GIGABYTE GA-MA78LMT-S2 AM3 AMD 760G Micro ATX


Return that mobo IMMEDIATELY!!!! Also, I got you covered for an OS if you can return that as well







.

Get on a messenger or something (even facebook). See if we can figure something out that'll work for ya







.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Return that mobo IMMEDIATELY!!!! Also, I got you covered for an OS if you can return that as well







.

Get on a messenger or something (even facebook). See if we can figure something out that'll work for ya







.


Wish I could, but I've already lost two illustration gigs not having a PC at to work with. That's big $$$ for me. The Mobo will be here today sometime and I'll have to get it up and running asap.

*EDIT:* Is that a bad Mobo?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Wish I could, but I've already lost two illustration gigs not having a PC at to work with. That's big $$$ for me. The Mobo will be here today sometime and I'll have to get it up and running asap.

*EDIT:* Is that a bad Mobo?


That's the same EXACT motherboard that lit on fire on me, at stock clocks and voltages, with my Athlon quad. And it took Gigabyte SEVEN MONTHS to finally satisfy an RMA. They kept sending me dead, burnt up boards back as replacement, that wouldn't POST. I had to file a LAWSUIT against them to get my money back. Well, threaten it. I did file with the BBB and the Washington State Attorney General though. At that point, I was only fighting them for the cause.

If it wasn't for it being that exact same board....I'd say run with it since you already bought it. Me personally, I'd happily pay the restocking fee to get rid of it. Heck, I'd happily let newegg keep the $70 and bash it with a sledgehammer.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


That's the same EXACT motherboard that lit on fire on me, at stock clocks and voltages, with my Athlon quad. And it took Gigabyte SEVEN MONTHS to finally satisfy an RMA. They kept sending me dead, burnt up boards back as replacement, that wouldn't POST. I had to file a LAWSUIT against them to get my money back. Well, threaten it. I did file with the BBB and the Washington State Attorney General though. At that point, I was only fighting them for the cause.

If it wasn't for it being that exact same board....I'd say run with it since you already bought it. Me personally, I'd happily pay the restocking fee to get rid of it. Heck, I'd happily let newegg keep the $70 and bash it with a sledgehammer.


what can ya find at $65? I'm really on a tight budget lol


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


what can ya find at $65? I'm really on a tight budget lol


This is ever so slightly over $65 ($69 plus $7 shipping). But oh, such a nice board for the money.

Open Box Asus 790X

EDIT:
If you absolutely MUST stay under $65, no questions asked, this ASRock 880G is a solid overclocker for quads. It won't handle 6 core CPU's too terribly well though, which you're not looking at anyway. And its $45 + $7 shipping.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


This is ever so slightly over $65 ($69 plus $7 shipping). But oh, such a nice board for the money.

Open Box Asus 790X


Hmmm...going to give them a call now a see what they say. BRB (fingers crossed)


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Hmmm...going to give them a call now a see what they say. BRB (fingers crossed)


If you can't pull off the $69 OB Asus board, I edited with an ASRock open box 880G for $45.

And what I told you via PM about the OS, that stands true if you need it







.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


If you can't pull off the $69 OB Asus board, I edited with an ASRock open box 880G for $45.

And what I told you via PM about the OS, that stands true if you need it







.


Ok email sent, I called but their offices are close currently. As for the OS I'm gonna stick with a fresh Windows 7. Been on XP since it came out. lol I here nothing but good things about it. Thanks for the suggestion Pio. I'll report back on what they say.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


Ok email sent, I called but their offices are close currently. As for the OS I'm gonna stick with a fresh Windows 7. Been on XP since it came out. lol I here nothing but good things about it. Thanks for the suggestion Pio. I'll report back on what they say.


If you end up getting either of the two boards I linked you, they SHOULD be able to unlock that tri to a Deneb Quad. I've seen quite a few people successfully unlock the 445 to a x4 with L3 cache. Both of the boards I linked you will handle an x4 with L3 cache, overclocked just fine. The Asus will definitely be the superior board, but the 880G isn't all that shabby either.

Either board is 10x better than mine though. I've seen both of those boards scale to 300 HTT on more than one occasion. I'm 90% sure they both have CPU-NB voltage options, and they both have better power phase setups over the Gigabyte.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


If you end up getting either of the two boards I linked you, they SHOULD be able to unlock that tri to a Deneb Quad. I've seen quite a few people successfully unlock the 445 to a x4 with L3 cache. Both of the boards I linked you will handle an x4 with L3 cache, overclocked just fine. The Asus will definitely be the superior board, but the 880G isn't all that shabby either.

Either board is 10x better than mine though. I've seen both of those boards scale to 300 HTT on more than one occasion. I'm 90% sure they both have CPU-NB voltage options, and they both have better power phase setups over the Gigabyte.


That CPU unlocks? Lol I had no clue, it was a cheap budget thing.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


That CPU unlocks? Lol I had no clue, it was a cheap budget thing.










I've seen quite a few reports of the x3 445 unlocking, yes







.


----------



## GuardianOdin

That would be nice. Thou I haven't been known to have a "golden" chip.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


That would be nice. Thou I haven't been known to have a "golden" chip.










Mannnn.....don't even get me started on that subject







.

My first Athlon II was 00001 off the die. Seriously. To be safe, after my Gigabyte fire, I RMA'd it. AMD sent me back one that's like 5000 or so off the die







. So my current 630 is just a general, run of the mill 630







. And my board is at its limits...so that's not helping anything either.


----------



## StormX2

Hey guys, need the experts opinion,

Id hate to see her go, but Im in extreme financial troubles with a family threatened to starve lol so Im sellign all my old stuff asap

if anyone wants to help me price out or wants instant delivery let me know lol

But my Beautiful Opty 165 and DFI board and my XMS Platinums that were so nice are going to be sold to someone awesome

or to my step dad.. bleh

Opteron 165 Build Appraisal


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2;12288681*
> Hey guys, need the experts opinion,
> 
> Id hate to see her go, but Im in extreme financial troubles with a family threatened to starve lol so Im sellign all my old stuff asap
> 
> if anyone wants to help me price out or wants instant delivery let me know lol
> 
> But my Beautiful Opty 165 and DFI board and my XMS Platinums that were so nice are going to be sold to someone awesome
> 
> or to my step dad.. bleh
> 
> Opteron 165 Build Appraisal











So sad







.


----------



## StormX2

yah it makes me very upset, but worse is that ive not been using it or my newer i7 machine at all.

What happened was my fiancee son and I were offered to live with ehr parents to sav eup money

But 2 weeks later they said leave, which was 10 days before Christmas. so now we struggling

btw what happend to your Opty?


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2;12289405*
> btw what happend to your Opty?


At the beginning/middle of last summer, it just randomly refused to boot. Then I left for the west coast for a month, and then I swapped in an old single core I got from another member.

Recently I bought an Opteron 170 from Joe







. All is good again. Except school is taking up too much time.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nategr8ns;12289482*
> At the beginning/middle of last summer, it just randomly refused to boot. Then I left for the west coast for a month, and then I swapped in an old single core I got from another member.
> 
> *Recently I bought an Opteron 170 from Joe*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . All is good again. Except school is taking up too much time.












Joe hides the good stuff at his house







. I got a 170 from him a while back that could do 3.0. Thinkerbell's 170 did 3.0 undervolted







. Oh, and that chip came from Joe too.


----------



## el gappo

Going to get to work on putting the cpu's to work soon. Never got a chance to finish this comp because of the bench meet now I'm busy with forum wars :/ Got a decent pile for when I have the time tho


----------



## pioneerisloud

Bwahahaha, I'm the first one to officially LIKE the 939 Club.









Oh, how I need to get a life.........


----------



## SwishaMane

Anyone have a nForce4 compatible chipset heatsink/fan? Trying to get one shipped for as cheap as possible, something aftermarket. I see you guys' old boards everywhere, lol.

HAS TO BE LOW PROFILE, for obvious GPU reasons, lol. Im just wondering if someone could get me one for like $10.

EDIT: Ive always liked these...

http://www.xoxide.com/iceberq.html

But with shipping, its near $20. And I dont wanna JUST order that small dinky thing.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane;12318505*
> Anyone have a nForce4 compatible chipset heatsink/fan? Trying to get one shipped for as cheap as possible, something aftermarket. I see you guys' old boards everywhere, lol.
> 
> HAS TO BE LOW PROFILE, for obvious GPU reasons, lol. Im just wondering if someone could get me one for like $10.
> 
> EDIT: Ive always liked these...
> 
> http://www.xoxide.com/iceberq.html
> 
> But with shipping, its near $20. And I dont wanna JUST order that small dinky thing.


You can browse this site and check out some of the stuff they have - Cheap!
Peek into the discontinued items for the really cheap priced stuff. I know some of it isn't considered great but they do have a few good pieces that's hard to find.
http://www.thermaltakestore.com/


----------



## Enfluenza

whoa whoa whoa....
why iz i not on list?
and dont laugh at my 'OC', its the best i could get out of an OEM board.
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1646893


----------



## Blitz6804

I had you down as a nostalgic member (no CPUz validation was given). I am updating the off-site now.

EDIT: You are now on the off-site roster as an active member.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *el gappo;12305145*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to get to work on putting the cpu's to work soon. Never got a chance to finish this comp because of the bench meet now I'm busy with forum wars :/ Got a decent pile for when I have the time tho


That kind of looks like the collection of Lanparty's I have collecting dust over hear at my Dugeon.


----------



## Enfluenza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N2Gaming;12327176*
> That kind of looks like the collection of Lanparty's I have collecting dust over hear*HERE* at my Dugeon.


fixed.

if you want to lend a poor fellow OCer a LANparteh please PM me lol

my Opty 170 and Venice A64 3500+ doesnt deserve a crappy OEM board with a max FSB of 229Mhz!


----------



## Dissentience

I used to run an Athlon 64 4000+ in an Asus A8N SLI-Deluxe


----------



## SwishaMane

I'm thinking about getting rid of my ASUS A8N sli-deluxe if anyone is interested. 8 sata total, perfect condition. I can even vmod the vcore for up to 1.8vcore for a few extra bucks. PM me interest or for pics. Gonna go cheap, and its perfect condition.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dissentience*


I used to run an Athlon 64 4000+ in an Asus A8N SLI-Deluxe


You joined the forum just to say that? Awesome!!


----------



## Xyro TR1

I'm _so glad_ this thread is still here. I miss S939 to this day...


----------



## nategr8ns

Yesterday I was pricing out PII X6 and i5 Quad systems. I'm sorry guys.
I can't afford either yet though







.


----------



## Cyrious

ive got to figure out what i am going to do with these dual core 939 systems now that i can no longer use them for folding (getting the new board for my desktop and the subsequent overclock resulted in a $250 power bill, had to shut them down). I dont have any spare graphics cards which i can toss in one and craigslist it, and just tossing it would be a waste of decent hardware.

Any suggestions?


----------



## lollingtonbear

my first computer was from 1999, said computer died in early 2005
I had to wait almost a full year untill I got my next computer, 4400+ & A8N-e
she was a bute and got me through college, university & was retired in 2009

Life story aside I was only able to get it up to 2400MHz no matter what.
I picked up a gigabyte board at a garage sale and got her up to 2642MHz

I have a question, this was achieved at 1.45V, 49C load temps. I wanted to know if this would be safe for 24/7 usage?


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lollingtonbear;12339989*
> my first computer was from 1999, said computer died in early 2005
> I had to wait almost a full year untill I got my next computer, 4400+ & A8N-e
> she was a bute and got me through college, university & was retired in 2009
> 
> Life story aside I was only able to get it up to 2400MHz no matter what.
> I picked up a gigabyte board at a garage sale and got her up to 2642MHz
> 
> I have a question, this was achieved at 1.45V, 49C load temps. I wanted to know if this would be safe for 24/7 usage?


1.45V has been safe for a lot of members 939 overclocks. I'd run it with 49C load temps for sure.


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;12333320*
> You joined the forum just to say that? Awesome!!











This is the first thread that caught my eye


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N2Gaming;12327176*
> That kind of looks like the collection of Lanparty's I have collecting dust over hear at my Dugeon.


What good is a dungeon if you don't get to spend some quality torture time with them?

You gotta make 'em BEG dude....


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton;12343281*
> What good is a dungeon if you don't get to spend some quality torture time with them?
> 
> You gotta make 'em BEG dude....


I know maybe one of these days I'll grow a pair.


----------



## FlawleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nategr8ns;12340368*
> 1.45V has been safe for a lot of members 939 overclocks. I'd run it with 49C load temps for sure.


I've run up to 1.5 on my Opteron 180 with a Zalman 9700CNPS. The voltage doesn't matter as much as temps. Unless you're looking at 1.6+ where air and most water setups are out of the question. I haven't seen anyone report of degradation on the K8's at high voltage levels. I have seen people report on the Core 2 cpus though.


----------



## SwishaMane

Degradation is in the IMCs from what Ive noticed. I was at 1.8vcore on cheap water setup for 939 contest. 60C max or so if I remember... If only I had better pump then, it would have made difference.


----------



## ny_driver

I spent $275 for the Swiftech Ultima XT kit, and only ~$250 to build the chiller that I use......lol.....the only part of the kit I'm using to cool the cpu is the waterblock.


----------



## -iceblade^

minor cleaning performed









please don't respond to a reported post - report and move on.


----------



## ny_driver

nvm


----------



## FnkDctr

anyone top 12k in 3dmark06 on a socket 939?


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FnkDctr;12462180*
> 
> anyone top 12k in 3dmark06 on a socket 939?


Yes, Pio had just over 12k IIRC. But I feel like we JUST had this discussion in here







.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Yes, Pio had just over 12k IIRC. But I feel like we JUST had this discussion in here







.


I only had 11129. But that was with a single card, and not at 3.1Ghz either.


----------



## 5starGeneral Alphasnake

Can i still join this lovely 939 club?
If so, http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1668827
My gaming rig.


----------



## Blitz6804

5starGeneral Alphasnake: You should now appear on the off-site roster. The on-site will update sometime in the future.


----------



## FlawleZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I only had 11129. But that was with a single card, and not at 3.1Ghz either.


Was that with the GTX 470?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FlawleZ*


Was that with the GTX 470?


No, that was with a single 8800GTS.


----------



## FlawleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;12503722*
> No, that was with a single 8800GTS.


Oh really? G92 I assume? Which CPU and speed?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FlawleZ*


Oh really? G92 I assume? Which CPU and speed?


Yeah, 8800GTS 512. My Opteron 165 clocked at 2997MHz. Which that chip was capable of 3.1GHz stable. And the GPU was stock clocked at the time.


----------



## SwishaMane

I did 12k too ya know!









Except I needed a GTX 275 OC'd


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane;12517163*
> I did 12k too ya know!


----------



## SwishaMane

no...


----------



## FlawleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;12512251*
> Yeah, 8800GTS 512. My Opteron 165 clocked at 2997MHz. Which that chip was capable of 3.1GHz stable. And the GPU was stock clocked at the time.


I wonder if my Opteron 180 @2860Mhz and 8800GTS SSC can come close to that. I could throw in my 9800GTX to see if that helps much too. Best I ever did 3Dmark06 was like 8K but that was just 7800GTX's back around 2007 when that was my primary rig.


----------



## nategr8ns

So guys, I still haven't attempted to overclock since just after the Winter OC Contest.
I determined that any RAM speed over 166MHz (with four DIMMs) would lock up my computer with Minecraft running, despite being fine in OCCT. I need a better RAM tester I do believe







.

I figure that this is a mem controller issue, since the RAM was fine at 200 or even 250MHz with just two DIMMs. Would higher timing relieve some stress on the MC?


----------



## ny_driver

Did you try 2T?


----------



## FlawleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ny_driver;12520062*
> Did you try 2T?


This and which drive strengths did you try?


----------



## nategr8ns

Of course I'm running 2T







. It wasn't even bootable at 1T at any speeds.
What do you mean by drive strengths?


----------



## FlawleZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Of course I'm running 2T







. It wasn't even bootable at 1T at any speeds.
What do you mean by drive strengths?


----------



## nategr8ns

Never even seen that setting before! I'll look for it on next reboot.
Anybody running 4 1GB dimms on a DFI board? I basically want to copy-paste your ram settings to see if anything gets me stable over 166MHz.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Never even seen that setting before! I'll look for it on next reboot.
Anybody running 4 1GB dimms on a DFI board? I basically want to copy-paste your ram settings to see if anything gets me stable over 166MHz.


The only requirement is that you must use the 166 or lower divider







.

Try lowering timings to like 3-3-3-8-2T. Make sure you get TRC and TRFC set properly (11-14 according to the above timings).

You could also try a little more vDIMM (as long as its safe).


----------



## nategr8ns

vDIMM is at the high end of the G.Skill recommended. Don't want to break that lifetime warranty.
Timings are already 3-4-4-8 2T with a tRC of 10 and an Idle Timer of 256 (everything I could glean from CPUz







).

My guess is that there's some obscure settings I've never touched that need to be taken off of Auto.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


vDIMM is at the high end of the G.Skill recommended. Don't want to break that lifetime warranty.
Timings are already 3-4-4-8 2T with a tRC of 10 and an Idle Timer of 256 (everything I could glean from CPUz







).

My guess is that there's some obscure settings I've never touched that need to be taken off of Auto.


What voltage are you giving them?


----------



## Blitz6804

That right there is part of the problem. tRC of 10 is too tight; you should have it at 12 or 14.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


That right there is part of the problem. tRC of 10 is too tight; you should have it at 12 or 14.


12 would be optimal. You're right though, 10 is too tight. How did I miss that?


----------



## nategr8ns

Yaaay! Thanks you two!
Will lower in an hour after this round of League of Legends







.


----------



## nategr8ns

I do believe it worked...








Currently running minecraft with DDR @ 208MHz







(250*5/6)
Time to get my FSB higher!

btw Pio, I believe my vDIMM is 2.8V. I believe my G.Skill 500HZs are rated for 2.6-2.8.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nategr8ns;12528282*
> I do believe it worked...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently running minecraft with DDR @ 208MHz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (250*5/6)
> Time to get my FSB higher!
> 
> btw Pio, I believe my vDIMM is 2.8V. I believe my G.Skill 500HZs are rated for 2.6-2.8.


You could push 2.90v safely on them. Not sure if it'd do any good.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


You could push 2.90v safely on them. Not sure if it'd do any good.


Hmmm, I would feel safe doing that, except I feel like if I kill the RAM with 2.9v (big if), I may get denied RMA.
Just being cautious.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Hmmm, I would feel safe doing that, except I feel like if I kill the RAM with 2.9v (big if), I may get denied RMA.
Just being cautious.


You wouldn't be denied an RMA with GSkill. Lifetime warranties are awesome like that from GSkill







.

I would honestly be more worried about them not carrying much DDR anymore though.


----------



## ny_driver

When I RMAd my 4 x 512mb ballistix pc3200, they didn't carry that any more and all they had was regular pc3200 no heatspreaders.....but I talked them into giving me 4x1GB at least.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


When I RMAd my 4 x 512mb ballistix pc3200, they didn't carry that any more and all they had was regular pc3200 no heatspreaders.....but I talked them into giving me 4x1GB at least.










Yeah, Crucial did the same thing for me too. Crucial, GSkill, Kingston, Corsair...they all have excellent RMA procedures. Blitz won't agree on the Corsair thing, but meh. I have never had a single issue with a RAM company for an RMA honestly, other than OCZ.


----------



## ny_driver

OCZ has been good to me.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


OCZ has been good to me.


Well, to be fair....my problem with OCZ was that they promised me my DDR500 Platinums would work with my A8N32-SLI Deluxe (2x1GB). They never ONCE worked correctly. Took DDR333 to make them stable with 3-3-3-8 timings.

Gave those sticks to Joe, and AFAIK, he's never had a problem with them at 400 or 500.

I got some Corsair XMS 4x1GB to replace them, and those suckers could hit DDR550 and higher.

So it was a problem with my board being picky, not so much a problem with OCZ in general.


----------



## nategr8ns

OK, 3-4-4-10, tRC of 12 like recommended. Can't play League of Legends any higher than 166.67 MHz. Currently at 250*2/3. Even at 170MHz the computer locked up.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


OK, 3-4-4-10, tRC of 12 like recommended. Can't play League of Legends any higher than 166.67 MHz. Currently at 250*2/3. Even at 170MHz the computer locked up.


At 3-4-4-10 timings, TRC should be 14 or looser. And TRFC should be 18 or looser.


----------



## nategr8ns

BTW it was OCCT stable for an hour and a half at 200MHz.
Will update RAM in an hour.


----------



## Blitz6804

tRFC should be 16 or 18 with a tRC of 14.

As to my experiences with Corsair, why would I disagree with you? I had 2x1 GB DDR-400 2-3-3-6, which they did not make any more. They offered to replace with 2x1 GB DDR2-533 (no clue on the timings), 2x1 GB DDR-400 2.5-3-3-6 (about $75 new at the time), or give me a refund of my purchase price of $250. So of course I opted for the refund and bought 2x Mushkin 2x1 GB DDR-500 3-2-3-8. They sent me the DDR-400 anyway, after I already cashed the check, so I refused shipment as directed. They sent again, so I refused again. This continued five times before they got the hint.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


tRFC should be 16 or 18 with a tRC of 14.

As to my experiences with Corsair, why would I disagree with you? I had 2x1 GB DDR-400 2-3-3-6, which they did not make any more. They offered to replace with 2x1 GB DDR2-533 (no clue on the timings), 2x1 GB DDR-400 2.5-3-3-6 (about $75 new at the time), or give me a refund of my purchase price of $250. So of course I opted for the refund and bought 2x Mushkin 2x1 GB DDR-500 3-2-3-8. They sent me the DDR-400 anyway, after I already cashed the check, so I refused shipment as directed. They sent again, so I refused again. This continued five times before they got the hint.


For some odd reason, I thought you had a slight grudge against Corsair for that RMA. Hmm, oh well.


----------



## nategr8ns

Note to all while I'm looking at my BIOS screen:

Trrd, Twr, Twtr, Trwt, Tref all set to auto.
DQS Control @ Auto, Value @ 0
Drive Strengths both at Auto
DRAM Response Time: Fast
IdleCycle Limit: 256 Cycles

edit: Still locks up my system. Running League of Legends and Windows Media Player.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Sigh...you guys are going to hate me now







.

I'm now officially an Intel / Nvidiot. I feel like such a sellout







.

Just ordered:
Biostar P67 board
i5 2500k
4GB GSkill Ripjaws, 1.50v

I was originally looking at a 1055T setup instead, with an 890FX board and 8GB of RAM. But this ended up being the same exact price. I feel so dirty.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Sigh...you guys are going to hate me now







.

I'm now officially an Intel / Nvidiot. I feel like such a sellout







.

Just ordered:
Biostar P67 board
i5 2500k
4GB GSkill Ripjaws, 1.50v

I was originally looking at a 1055T setup instead, with an 890FX board and 8GB of RAM. But this ended up being the same exact price. I feel so dirty.


I have nothing but love for you PIO. Hopefully now you can play all the games w/out any incidents of sound/mic, network & or CPU spd being a bottle neck. Did you order another GPU? I have seen the GTX 580's open box at the egg going for less than 4 bills.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


I have nothing but love for you PIO. Hopefully now you can play all the games w/out any incidents of sound/mic, network & or CPU spd being a bottle neck. Did you order another GPU? I have seen the GTX 580's open box at the egg going for less than 4 bills.










Nope, just the main components. I may even end up selling the entire rig after the upgrade to somebody locally for $1500. And at that point, I will invest in a similar build for as inexpensive as possible...and put the rest towards my car, and getting it fixed up nicely.


----------



## Kryton

Don't sweat it Pio.

I did get a ASRock P43DE3 board for a Pentium D 930 I have lying around here to build a system I could toy around with. Hadn't really planned on doing that but when I saw how fast the good 775 boards were disappearing, went ahead and got one to run with my DDR3 sticks I have lying around spare. It was cheap and the system the 930 was in originally was a freebie so not alot invested in it - Yes the chip was included in the freebie part of how I got the system.


----------



## ragejg

I have returned once again to the realm of Socket 939.

I kinda retired from tech-stuff from Nov 2005 until early 2008. I sold my Gigabyte 939 setup with some fast DDR, a 6200 unlocked to 6600 and a 600W PSU, and ended up using an old POS KT266 rig for a while.

Then in spring of '08 I started investigating building a new system. I really didn't want to go Intel (I've never had an Intel CPU dating back to 1992) and AM2 was too rich for my blood. So I bought a couple 939 boards, first an Nforce 3 Ultra motherboard, and found problems with Vista and RAID 0. So I sold it. I also has an Asus A8V (non-deluxe) on me, but I sold that before I could do much with it.

Then I built two almost identical 939 rigs, after a lot of research.


x2 3800+ / Opteron 165
2x Asus A8V Deluxe (K8T800 Pro)
2x PowerColor HD 3850 AGP
2x DiamondMax 9 120gb RAID 0 / 2x 20gb 5400rpm RAID 0

Antec EA650 / XClio GoodPower 500W PSUs
2x 1gb + 2x 512mb OCZ Gold DDR / 2x 1gb + 2x 512mb ValueRam DDR
Vista Ultimate / Vista Home Premium
... And holy crap did I have fun with these systems. I mildly OCed both of them to around 2.3 or so, and also got good OCs out of the HD 3850s. Gaming performance was quite remarkable for what it was.

I replaced one of these rigs in Summer 2009 with an AM2+ x3 720BE/HD 4870 setup, but the other rig with the better RAM & faster hard drive soldiered on...

... Until I installed America's Army v3 and the Bad Company 2 Beta. That was a reality check for the rig, and I finally (and sadly) sold it and got another AM2+ system.

So I figured that was it. No more 939.

Well, some circumstances arose where I had an opportunity to build a system that I could let my kids use. I had a bunch of Socket A stuff laying around, and even built a rig from those parts... but I kinda felt that I'd rather be playing with Socket 939 again.

I talked to one of the guys that bought some of my parts over the years, and some of what I sold him wasn't being used. He sold me back a motherboard and GPU, and sent a CPU and cooler with it.

Woohoo! So as of right now I have:

Opteron 175 cooled by lapped Zalman CNPS 9700 LED
Asus A8V (non-Deluxe)
PowerColor HD 3850 AGP

.. I need to score some RAM, a PSU, and need to decide on hard drives.

I'll either put this setup in my Tuniq 3:



... or I'll put it in my freshly-refurbed and about to be modded WaveMaster.










The goal with this system: *Perform whatever mods necessary including voltage mods to the GPU to make this system push air-cooled Socket 939 performance to its edge.*

I'll likely install 2x DDR in the RAM slots instead of 4 to maximize overclocking potential. That means 2x2gb.

I'm going to cool the MOSFETS.

I need/want to get to at least 2.7ghz.

Hopefully I'll install Win7 instead of Vista.

In the interest of making things less complicated and maximizing OCing potential I'm not going to go RAID 0 with regards to a hard drive setup. I'm just gong to install an ordinary hard drive, and may replace it with an SSD in the future.

... I pushed Socket 939 near its limit before, but this time I'm going to put it even closer.









So I'll likely be around here to ask some questions to help me to really make the most of this setup.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I'd vote to put it in that smexy Tuniq 3.

And you won't find a 2x2GB kit of DDR. I'd just run 4x1GB of some good RAM. They don't affect the overclock as badly as you think. I ran my Opteron 165 @ 3.1GHz with my RAM at somewhere around DDR466 @ 2.5-3-3-6. Those Opterons usually have pretty decent IMC's.


----------



## FlawleZ

Hey ragejg, glad you made it over here. I think this is one of, if not THE biggest running threads of s939 information and resources. Fortunately there are still several active members here providing helpful input.


----------



## 2thAche

Ahh the wavemaster. Nice case.

I had to give up on alot of nice old cases 'cause I grew to hate 80mm fans....


----------



## nategr8ns

^ Nice Subie Toothache!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;12654725*
> I'd vote to put it in that smexy Tuniq 3.
> 
> And you won't find a 2x2GB kit of DDR. I'd just run 4x1GB of some good RAM. They don't affect the overclock as badly as you think. I ran my Opteron 165 @ 3.1GHz with my RAM at somewhere around DDR466 @ 2.5-3-3-6. Those Opterons usually have pretty decent IMC's.


I still can't run higher than 166 with four dimms







.


----------



## 420Assassin

hey guys been wile since had time to get here and post.. New job 9-10 hour days so when get home wanna just crash. But got a new toy and another in shipping, and possibly 1 more to get.. 
But finally upgraded my monitor got a 2TB hdd for media and she looks sexy










the old one


$200CND for the new on and 100% worth it

and ragejg cant wait to see what you do with case looks like have some nice room to work with. Never liked doors tho mine always broke


----------



## jza70

Hey guys!

Just thought i'd chime in. Socket 939 user here, my first was a 3000+ Winchester on a Gigabyte K8NS Ultra 939 back in 2005! I currently have the following s939 system..

DFI Lanparty UT NF4 Ultra-D
3800x2 @ 2.84ghz Toledo
4x1gb Corsair TWINX2048-3200PRO/Mushkin 991493 @ DDR516 3-3-3-8 2T
XFX HD 4850 512mb
Antec 902, 600w OCZ GameXStream
Bunch of older SATA/IDE drives

The system still runs great after 3ish years, and i've only changed a few things (case/videocard/cpu cooler) over the years. I still use it daily alongside my Q9550 C2Q.

I've been thinking of tinkering with the settings for fun to see if I can get a bit more out of it, particularly the RAM. I know the Mushkin sticks can do 265mhz @ 3-3-2-8 1T, but i'm not sure about the Corsair sticks. The last time I fiddled with this thing was a good 2 years ago. Guess i'll do some testing and see what I can come up with..


----------



## redhat_ownage

better late then never, I've finally got an Ultra D incoming.
finally my golden 4000 will be at 3ghz again and my 2GB of BH-5 will be rocking 2-2-2-5 timing again.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage;12757111*
> better late then never, I've finally got an Ultra D incoming.
> finally my golden 4000 will be at 3ghz again and my 2GB of BH-5 will be rocking 2-2-2-5 timing again.


Sweet







.


----------



## jethro_static

Ahhh. I still have my Asrock Mobo and my Athlon x2. I guess I can join. That was my rig that never was. I have all the parts complete but I was too lazy to put it together. Now I'm inspired to build it.


----------



## el gappo

Playing with the expert today, being a div with winbond for some reason but the hynix is working.

But still going to be the first 939 single core over 10k in pcmark i'm sure









Alot of people from a certain hwbot team... cheating pcmark on near all 939 chips. Different browsers and codec packs. Best bit is they still suck


----------



## el gappo

Really trying to get 200 but it's not happening, still miles faster than sb850







:


















Finally managed 10k which is what I was after. Took a while, most of it spent staring at that debug card







Worth all of 2 points but it was fun.



























Really sorry about that horrible ram redhat, had to run the hynix because the bh5 is causing some heavy artifacts







Had to keep em slow else they wont work in dual channel on this silly board.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *el gappo;12764470*
> Playing with the expert today, being a div with winbond for some reason but the hynix is working.
> 
> But still going to be the first 939 single core over 10k in pcmark i'm sure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alot of people from a certain hwbot team... cheating pcmark on near all 939 chips. Different browsers and codec packs. Best bit is they still suck


Will NEVER. HAPPEN. LOL Im thinking 3dmark06 tho.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Looks great Gappo! Why did you keep the Reference Clock so slow though? You would gain some decent points by raising that, and lowering your multiplier (and RAM if needed).


----------



## el gappo

Having trouble booting dual channel at high htt. Even stock can be difficult. Will get it sorted eventualy.

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk


----------



## cuad

I've got an AMD 939. I think it sux. Can't wait to get rid of it who wants it?


----------



## FlawleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cuad;12775228*
> I've got an AMD 939. I think it sux. Can't wait to get rid of it who wants it?


Board or CPU or both? Which specifically?


----------



## cuad

All of the following + the stock heatsink. It's from an old pre-built.


----------



## FlawleZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cuad*


All of the following + the stock heatsink. It's from an old pre-built.


Oh okay. Well throw it up on the FS section for a fair price and I'm sure someone will be interested. Is it a proprietary board like Dell/HP/Gateway/Emachine etc?


----------



## el gappo

Eh I wouldn't mind the CPU and RAM


----------



## redhat_ownage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nategr8ns;12531448*
> Hmmm, I would feel safe doing that, except I feel like if I kill the RAM with 2.9v (big if), I may get denied RMA.
> Just being cautious.


1GB G.Skill HZ's use Samsung UCCC chips 2.8-2.9V max some scale with 3.1 but not worth trying, better to sell them and get the G.Skill ZX 2gb kit they can do 500 2.5-3-2-0 1T 2.6V
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *el gappo;12766860*
> Really trying to get 200 but it's not happening, still miles faster than sb850
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :
> 
> Finally managed 10k which is what I was after. Took a while, most of it spent staring at that debug card
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worth all of 2 points but it was fun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really sorry about that horrible ram redhat, had to run the hynix because the bh5 is causing some heavy artifacts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to keep em slow else they wont work in dual channel on this silly board.


good stuff bro, that promos stuff is awful aint it? i got some on an
OCZ kit and raged they were supposed to be TCCD.


----------



## redhat_ownage

double post! dont care!
look what arrived today!!! im in love again <333


----------



## tomotjkm

please add me newbie with old sempron would like to learn to clock with this system


----------



## FnkDctr

you might want to fill out your system specs


----------



## FlawleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage;12848084*
> double post! dont care!
> look what arrived today!!! im in love again <333


You'd be sub 30s in XP


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlawleZ;12874989*
> You'd be sub 30s in XP


Yeah, only if he knew what he was doing................









http://hwbot.org/community/submission/2142125_ny_driver_superpi_athlon_64_4000_san_diego_25sec_750ms


----------



## el gappo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ny_driver;12876248*
> Yeah, only if he knew what he was doing................
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://hwbot.org/community/submission/2142125_ny_driver_superpi_athlon_64_4000_san_diego_25sec_750ms


----------



## Karebear Killer

Good ol 939, gonna have to hang the old dfi on the wall as memories. Wish there was more good 939 boards floating around, so short lived for such a great platform.


----------



## ny_driver

Don't worry we won't let them die


----------



## pioneerisloud

Oh hey NY. I figure since I'm here and not in PM's at the moment....your chip will ship Monday for sure. I haven't had the chance to cash my check yet.


----------



## redhat_ownage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlawleZ;12874989*
> You'd be sub 30s in XP


yea but this is a media center and thats daily setting
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ny_driver;12876248*
> Yeah, only if he knew what he was doing................
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://hwbot.org/community/submission/2142125_ny_driver_superpi_athlon_64_4000_san_diego_25sec_750ms


nice chip haven't really pushed this 4000 yet 3.2 is as high as ive ever gotten.


----------



## SwishaMane

SWEET! Soon as my contest winnings come in, Im gonna get this good ole FX55 I got and shoot for the stars. See if it can handle 1.8vcore...


----------



## ny_driver

I just got another FX55 Swish, and I was wishing I wrote the stepping info down for the one I sold you, for comparison.
My new one is very old.....CAAZC 0444EPMW, what's is yours?
Thanks.

EDIT: it doesn't need that much vcore either..........I got 3591MHz w/ 1.648v

And you won't get very close to that high without LN2 or some form of extreme cooling.







Sorry.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

And that sounds great Pio.


----------



## nategr8ns

Speaking of contest winnings, I just got my contest-won Nvidia 6200 in the mail!
I liked the packaging







.

I also think I'll be hanging dead computer parts on the wall of my dorm next year







.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*









I just got another FX55 Swish, and I was wishing I wrote the stepping info down for the one I sold you, for comparison. 
My new one is very old.....CAAZC 0444EPMW, what's is yours?
Thanks.

EDIT: it doesn't need that much vcore either..........I got 3591MHz w/ 1.648v


That IS old, wow! Here is the info on the one you sold meh...

CAA2C 0512VPMW


----------



## ny_driver

Thanks! I'm anxious to try it out.


----------



## redhat_ownage

im thinking 6ns async will work on this new kit, its clocking alot better than my old 3500C2 kit


----------



## ny_driver

That's pretty nice memory!! I have some 3500C2, haven't used them much.
I should play with the subtimings a little, maybe I could get a little more than [email protected] out of my OCZ.


----------



## andrewmd

I have a athlon64 3200+ OC'd to 2.48 stable with a 7800GS and 1gb of ram.
that thing served me well until I got my new rig








Ill post pics next time I turn that *loud* beast on


----------



## redhat_ownage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ny_driver;12895394*
> That's pretty nice memory!! I have some 3500C2, haven't used them much.
> I should play with the subtimings a little, maybe I could get a little more than [email protected] out of my OCZ.


these are some relatively fresh 3200c2 pro rev 1.1, the ones with the useless leds on top








my set of 3500c2 plats are pretty strange on stick wont go over 500 3.6V while the other does 540 with only 3.4V


----------



## mixxwell

Just purchased an AMD Athlon 64 X2 5600+, now I need to find me a AM2 mobo and some DDR2 ram. Can't wait to see what this baby could do.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mixxwell;12899047*
> Just purchased an AMD Athlon 64 X2 5600+, now I need to find me a AM2 mobo and some DDR2 ram. Can't wait to see what this baby could do.


Psst, that's not 939 hardware







. Still K8 though. Maybe we should change this to the K8 appreciation club, since 939 is getting so rare?


----------



## mixxwell

Oh I apologize for my mistake, didn't know x]


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mixxwell;12899196*
> Oh I apologize for my mistake, didn't know x]


No reason to appologize.







And your AM2 chip is basically identical to the 939 chips anyway, just has a DDR2 controller instead of DDR1.


----------



## mixxwell

Ohhh okay. Learned something new today!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mixxwell;12899241*
> Ohhh okay. Learned something new today!


Windsor = Toledo / Denmark
Brisbane = Manchester

Left is AM2 = Right is 939

Only HUGE difference is the Manchester's don't clock very well, but the Brisbane's go very high. The above is just clock for clock performance.


----------



## ny_driver

Check out this Manchester.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Check out this Manchester.










Golden chips with DICE don't count brah.







I was talking the "typical" Manny's. The ones that hit a stability wall around 2.5-2.6GHz.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage*


these are some relatively fresh 3200c2 pro rev 1.1, the ones with the useless leds on top








my set of 3500c2 plats are pretty strange on stick wont go over 500 3.6V while the other does 540 with only 3.4V


What would you recommend for voltage and timings on my set of xms256A-3500C2(xms3502v1.1)?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Golden chips with DICE don't count brah.







I was talking the "typical" Manny's. The ones that hit a stability wall around 2.5-2.6GHz.


No DICE, just the chiller I built.








Maybe I got a lucky chip. LDBFE 0724WPMW.....the only chip I have that says "diffused in germany" above "made in malaysia".

EDIT: my last 4200+ Manny only did 3271MHz.


----------



## redhat_ownage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ny_driver;12902435*
> What would you recommend for voltage and timings on my set of xms256A-3500C2(xms3502v1.1)?


Quote:


> Winbond BH-5 Memory Burn-in Guide
> by Uwackme
> 
> 1. Set memory voltage to 3.3V
> 2. Set FSB to something high but not too high, e.g. 230 FSB
> 3. Run memtest86 and loop "test 5" for a few hours
> 
> If you get no errors at your this speed, increase FSB, all the way until you start getting errors. When you do, continue to loop "test 5" for hours, the errors will decrease or will be less frequent, soon enough they will magically disappear all together. When this happens, increase the FSB and try again.
> 
> 4. On the errors... a few is ok, but not a bazzillion. You want the ram getting the crap kicked out of it, and too many errors, the program goes into subroutines to log them instead of hammering the ram. So a "few errors"...10-20-50-100 is ok, not not K's. I liked 10-20 max PER LOOP of the test. The thing is, when errors are found it takes a break to record the tally.... which takes time away from HAMMERING the ram.
> 
> 5. Yes the idea of keeping the error rate low is that the program will take time away from hammering the ram to "tally" the error, and the idea is to hit the ram as hard as possible, so try to target the FSB at the point where errors start but not so high that ALOT of errors occur (as this would take away from the overall effect we are trying to acheive...HAMMER the SNOT out of the ram).
> 
> 6. For burn in its not required to set it to the highest voltage possible. Instead, and this is confirmed by OCZ, set the Vdimm to 3.2-3.3V and run it in memtest at as high an FSB as it will run without getting more than a few errors on a pass. Now at that FSB point, give it 24-72 HOURS of burnin, keeping the ram cooled with a fan blowing on it. Hopefully the ram will "improve" over time and the errors will reduce/disappear. Try increasing the FSB a couple Mhz every say 4-6 hours, and continue burning.


also keep the heatsink for the vdimm cool!!!


----------



## SwishaMane

I own like 9 939 chips, and I dont think a single one is golden. Makes me sad.


----------



## redhat_ownage

i retract my previous statement about my BH-5, the 3200 pro kit is a pos and the 3500 plats are owning memtest at 500 2-2-2-5 3.312V exactly.
im burning them right now at 533 3.462V getting ~30 errors per loop


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage;12913894*
> i retract my previous statement about my BH-5, the 3200 pro kit is a pos and the 3500 plats are owning memtest at 500 2-2-2-5 3.312V exactly.
> im burning them right now at 533 3.462V getting ~30 errors per loop


I feel like that could be dangerous to their health...


----------



## redhat_ownage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nategr8ns;12914035*
> I feel like that could be dangerous to their health...


should i go for a 550 run real quick?
everest bandwidth...


----------



## Mitche01

Do you think a 3700+ with 2Gb DDR 400 will be a bottle neck for HD 5450 Blu-ray playback on a 32" 1366x768 screen with an HDMI connector?


----------



## redhat_ownage

boo yea 3.55V


----------



## pioneerisloud

Damn redhat!


----------



## redhat_ownage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;12914224*
> Damn redhat!


thanks i work out


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage;12914267*
> thanks i work out


lol


----------



## redhat_ownage

a little comparison


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane;12910167*
> I own like 9 939 chips, and I dont think a single one is golden. Makes me sad.


What makes a chip golden? I think all it means is a good overclocker got a hold of it. Your results will vary even with a "golden" cpu.
You have to know what you are doing......like that FX55 you have for example......it did 3591MHz on LN2, and I never even raised the multiplier like an idiot. I bet money it would go higher after looking at all the other entries above me.







FXs like the cold.
If you want to sell it back sometime let me know.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage;12913894*
> i retract my previous statement about my BH-5, the 3200 pro kit is a pos and the 3500 plats are owning memtest at 500 2-2-2-5 3.312V exactly.
> im burning them right now at 533 3.462V getting ~30 errors per loop


Gonna have to try some burn-in.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage;12914045*
> should i go for a 550 run real quick?
> everest bandwidth...


Absolutely!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mitche01;12914101*
> Do you think a 3700+ with 2Gb DDR 400 will be a bottle neck for HD 5450 Blu-ray playback on a 32" 1366x768 screen with an HDMI connector?


Yup.
EDIT: I don't really know.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mitche01;12914101*
> Do you think a 3700+ with 2Gb DDR 400 will be a bottle neck for HD 5450 Blu-ray playback on a 32" 1366x768 screen with an HDMI connector?


Yes, that'll be just fine, even at 1080p for simple HTPC use. A Sempron at 1.8GHz and onboard HD3200 can do it, so your setup can too.


----------



## Blitz6804

A "Golden Chip" is one that can do higher clocks per equal voltages of its ilk. Thlnk3r's chip, for example, could do 3.0 GHz on stock voltage. Pioneerisloud's chip did 2.8 on only 1.270 V. Both of these are "if I remember right," anyway.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;12915349*
> A "Golden Chip" is one that can do higher clocks per equal voltages of its ilk. Thlnk3r's chip, for example, could do 3.0 GHz on stock voltage. Pioneerisloud's chip did 2.8 on only 1.270 V. Both of these are "if I remember right," anyway.


My Opty did:

2.7GHz, 1.12v
2.8GHz, 1.20v
3.0GHz, 1.33v (still below stock







)
3.1GHz, 1.45v


----------



## ny_driver

So if a 2GHz cpu boots @ 3380MHz on 1.392v then I guess it's golden huh?







Bones/Kryton has it's twin brother.

I suppose I have a few that are slightly golden. My 4000+, Opty148, and Opty152 all also boot well above 3GHz @ 1.392v.

I haven't tested them all @ 1.392v though.

This is a list of chips tested @ ~1.392v


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ny_driver;12915531*
> So if a 2GHz cpu boots @ 3380MHz on 1.392v then I guess it's golden huh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bones/Kryton has it's twin brother.
> 
> I suppose I have a few that are slightly golden. My 4000+, Opty148, and Opty152 all also boot well above 3GHz @ 1.392v.
> 
> I haven't tested them all @ 1.392v though.
> 
> This is a list of chips tested @ ~1.392v


I think you misunderstood. What I showed above, those were STABLE clocks and voltages. I think I suicided up to 3356 or something like that, with 1.42v (don't remember off the top of my head), but I was limited by my board.


----------



## ny_driver

No I didn't even consider whether or not yours were stable. Just saw a good opportunity to show off.









I would say though, after quite a few 939s, that's a pretty good indicator of how well the chip will perform when pushed, and of how high it can be stabilized. a little more showing off  If wprime isn't stable I don't know what is.

Each chip is different and has it's own ideal operating temperature range. Some, the FX-55 for example, don't seem to mind being LN2 cold. But many more don't even like to be more than ~10 below zero. Even my chiller w/-25C coolant is too cold for a bunch of them.

EDIT: lol @ 1.42v...nice clock though!


----------



## SwishaMane

Coldbug? I'm gonna be getting it on H50 water, so its gonna be like 60C load. Im gonna be relying on the unlocked multi for this run to keep FSB as low as possible. Im thinking most of my RAM and boards are damaged enough to not hold high OC on memory freq. anymore. I have 4 kits of RAM, and oen of my cheapest, seemingly junkiest sets seems to hold the best OC over time... hard to explain.







lol


----------



## ny_driver

Raising the multiplier is not as easy as it sounds, at least on the one I have now. So GL. And like I said, if you don't fry it with heat, I'll take it back if you don't like it.

I had a hell of a time even getting the new one to POST at 200 x 15. Couldn't get 16 at all....and on the chiller.

I don't recall if I tried on yours or not, but I'd like to. All I know is I maxed it out with the stock multi using LN2.


----------



## SwishaMane

You also got a pretty old chip... Im gonna be messing with it once my RAM comes in...


----------



## ny_driver

OK I have started the burn-in process on my Corsairs. 3.3v/230MHz 20 passes of test 5 with zero errors so far. I'll give it awhile and then increase 'till I see some errors.
I wonder if these things will run 2-2-2?

EDIT: now looping test 5 @ 260MHz/2-2-2-5/3.33v.......going to let it go until I wake up to take a leak and see if there's any errors.

I'm very impressed already that I don't see a million errors.







.....................270MHz @ 2-2-2 would be so sweet.

Morning EDIT/UPDATE:
I ended up burning in @ 265/2-2-2-5/3.41v last night with 8 errors in the first hour and none after that. So 8 errors in the first ~100 passes and none in the next ~1000........I guess they magically disappeared.









This morning I increased to 267MHz, and was getting a few too many errors to be productive, so I increased the voltage to 3.48v and am getting no errors now after 17 passes @ 267MHz, will be upping to 270 very soon. EDIT; increased to 268Mhz and I have 154 errors after 31 passes....perfect.

This is awesome, I can't wait to bench with these sticks.........

Burning in the OCZ on my other board @ 260MHz/2-2-2-4/3.48v with 6 errors after 8 passes....perfect.


----------



## ny_driver

Ok double post dammit! This is just way too awesome.









Now looping test #5 @ 270MHz/2-2-2-5/3.52v. 37 passes no errors so far .







in my crystal ball I can see 275MHz before long.
I was just burning @ 269MHz for ~2 hours with roughly 3-4 errors per loop, but that was @ only 3.48v.

I have the other system out on the roof to stay cooler with the OCZ in there and burning, but they don't seem to be responding like these 2x256 Corsair XMS3502v1.1.

They are 2x512 so they'll take longer I suppose.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Jeez....


----------



## ny_driver

I got that chip today Pio. Probably get it tested tonight.










---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I got bored with 2-2-2-5.........now @ 270/2-2-2-4/3.52v set in BIOS, but actually 3.57v in BIOS if you know what I mean









ahhhhhhhh........6 errors after 10 passes, I hope that is enough to effectively punish these sticks. Gonna let this one run a couple hours.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I got that chip today Pio. Probably get it tested tonight.









---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I got bored with 2-2-2-5.........now @ 270/2-2-2-4/3.52v set in BIOS, but actually 3.57v in BIOS if you know what I mean









ahhhhhhhh........6 errors after 10 passes, I hope that is enough to effectively punish these sticks. Gonna let this one run a couple hours.


I really want to see some great things out of that chip.









It's been in a laptop this entire time since it was made. Last time I checked, lappy CPU's usually go pretty far.


----------



## ny_driver

well, I'm certainly hopeful that it'll be better than my other 2. Currently my best is 3375MHz, but I sold that 1







I have 3 more on the way, lotta points to be had.


----------



## StormX2

well thats it boys =(

I no longer officially own a single AMD Machine at all =/

My step father bought my 3700 machine for 200 bucks

and the Opteron 165 machine for 350

I always dreamed I would have found something enjoyable to do with the Opty 165 =(


----------



## nategr8ns

But damn, nice prices.


----------



## StormX2

I had to hype it up, sicne they are fantastic chips and i told him that I could get more than there actual face value since I THINK of them as collectors items lol

next step is to sell my wife's Q9300 machine

oh yah, I got Married 2 weeks ago =)~


----------



## redhat_ownage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I got that chip today Pio. Probably get it tested tonight.









---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I got bored with 2-2-2-5.........now @ 270/2-2-2-4/3.52v set in BIOS, but actually 3.57v in BIOS if you know what I mean









ahhhhhhhh........6 errors after 10 passes, I hope that is enough to effectively punish these sticks. Gonna let this one run a couple hours.


your sticks are doing better than mine!
i have a feeling your 2x256 stick will hit 280-290 on a suicide run 3.8-3.9V.


----------



## ny_driver

Yup they bench @ 270/2-2-2-4/3.5ish. Haven't tried to bench higher, but that's about where I start getting errors in memtest.

Have you actually seen concrete proof that burn in works? The more research I do the more I think it's a myth. I didn't properly test my sticks beforehand.

I read a little story......
"a guy got a cpu and set it to 270x10 right away and it worked, so the next day he set it to 280x10 and it worked, so he left it that way a couple days and then set it to 290x10 and it worked.......burned that sucker right in he did".


----------



## phantommaggot

Hey Guys.. been a while since i posted in here..

Whats the best air cooler i can get these days for my old 939

Right now i have a xigmatek HDT-SD964 but i dont like that it blows air right into my powersupply

id really like something that blows out the back..
and it HAS to use 92mm fans... OR be 130mm or shorter in total hight

(im trying to get enough extra parts that i can completely upgrade my opty and rebuild my athalon)


----------



## FlawleZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *phantommaggot*


Hey Guys.. been a while since i posted in here..

Whats the best air cooler i can get these days for my old 939

Right now i have a xigmatek HDT-SD964 but i dont like that it blows air right into my powersupply

id really like something that blows out the back..
and it HAS to use 92mm fans... OR be 130mm or shorter in total hight

(im trying to get enough extra parts that i can completely upgrade my opty and rebuild my athalon)


Good news is most all 754, 939, AM2, and AM3 HSF are compatible and interchangeable. What's your budget?


----------



## phantommaggot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FlawleZ*


Good news is most all 754, 939, AM2, and AM3 HSF are compatible and interchangeable. What's your budget?



it depends on when i order...

im in a bit of a rut... really...

old room mate broke me.. x gf broke me more... then she had my kid...

puls i live in one of those towns that is like a giant retirement community so there are absolutely no jobs anywhere... Ugg

really though.. this xigmatek was only like 30 bux at the time.. it would be perfect if i could turn it around....

maybe list some options that would work better than the xigmatek and fit my space...

im gonna look too. but im on limited time as is...

thanks again

tbh id get this...
http://www.buy.com/prod/zalman-cnps9...202848518.html
but its too tall


----------



## SwishaMane

Get the crossbow kit or w/e they call it thats mounts horizontally mounted Xiggy coolers vertical, and upgrade to a push pull setup with good, high CFM fans.

Somewhere I heard the ThermalTake Blue Orbs or w/e are decent if you have good air flow in case... I think my boy had one for years, always did decent.


----------



## redhat_ownage

if you can find one, a themaltake big typhoon is pretty cheap now days.


----------



## phantommaggot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane;12953446*
> Get the crossbow kit or w/e they call it thats mounts horizontally mounted Xiggy coolers vertical, and upgrade to a push pull setup with good, high CFM fans.
> 
> Somewhere I heard the ThermalTake Blue Orbs or w/e are decent if you have good air flow in case... I think my boy had one for years, always did decent.


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835233060&nm_mc=OTC-Shopping&cm_mmc=OTC-Shopping-_-CPU+Cooling-_-XIGMATEK-_-35233060

that?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phantommaggot;12976536*
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835233060&nm_mc=OTC-Shopping&cm_mmc=OTC-Shopping-_-CPU+Cooling-_-XIGMATEK-_-35233060
> 
> that?


That should do the trick. I'm not 100% sure that it'll work on 939, but I know it would work fine on AM2. It LOOKS like it'd work fine on 939 though.


----------



## SwishaMane

No way, not for 939. Uhh, IDK... lawl


----------



## StormX2

so i tried to teach my Step Fatehr the basics of overclock my 939 on the DFI board, told him everythign he needs to know but i doubt he will take it off my stable daily settings.

so he is humming along at 2.7ghz with stock voltage


----------



## phantommaggot

Hey Guys
im gonna order the xiggy crossbow. its apparently gonna work. i just hope it actually does.. my cable management makes it s COMPLETE BTICH to take the motherboard out.. so i dont like to do it for unless its ABSOLUTELY necessary.

Now... if i can come across a vid card that covers me pretty well.. ill have 2 computers again XD... (6600GTOC is about to die i think -_-)

anyways, thanks guys !


----------



## FnkDctr

sad day









I got an i7 920...

Might put my 939 on here, but the dfi boosts bios really slow.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FnkDctr;13046371*
> sad day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got an i7 920...
> 
> Might put my 939 on here, but the dfi boosts bios really slow.


I have an i7 920 and it makes me happy If you do sell off I may be interested in the 8800GTs.


----------



## SwishaMane

IF price is right, I might be interested in the RAM.


----------



## ny_driver

Anyone receive their prizes from the Winter OC Contest yet? I can't even get a reply from the prize donor now for days.


----------



## SwishaMane

Joe is super busy... then again, what is the definition of busy? lol, I haven't gotten mine either, and could really use it.


----------



## nategr8ns

I got mine, but I think it may have been a different donor.


----------



## jethro_static

nothing


----------



## pioneerisloud

In regards to the prize issues, you guys will need to get in touch with the donor. I no longer have internet access, so I am unable to help at the current time.

I'm sure the donor has their reasons for being delayed though. You have my personal apologies for not being able to help any more with the situation than that. I wish there was more I could do.


----------



## pioneerisloud

In regards to the prize issues, you guys will need to get in touch with the donor. I no longer have internet access, so I am unable to help at the current time.

I'm sure the donor has their reasons for being delayed though. You have my personal apologies for not being able to help any more with the situation than that. I wish there was more I could do.


----------



## theCanadian

http://www.thermaltakestore.com/clp0114-refurbished-pro0114.html

BOOM!


----------



## 420Assassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nategr8ns;12887915*
> Speaking of contest winnings, I just got my contest-won Nvidia 6200 in the mail!
> I liked the packaging
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I also think I'll be hanging dead computer parts on the wall of my dorm next year
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


haha ya box was bigger cut it down make it custom







packed nice tight too make sure all ways safe.. i used that fan just taped on card really and worked wonder to help keep even cooler, dosnt make much noise.

and SwishaMane ya you weren't on my list of contest winners, I'm also still waiting on my contest prize aswell

but to ppl on my list hope you guys enjoy







the vid card was well takin care of and cleaned, cpu wasnt really used had another i tortured







sound card never used either maby for short wile wile month or 2, and usb pci card was used for maby 2 hours got brand new


----------



## SwishaMane

I won first place in the dual core suicide runs... Didn't think it would take over 3 months to get my prize. Still waiting...


----------



## theCanadian

A refurb Big Typhoon for $5 is apparently no big deal


----------



## 420Assassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane;13122773*
> I won first place in the dual core suicide runs... Didn't think it would take over 3 months to get my prize. Still waiting...


ya i won the vid card ati one and still waiting, im sure its just post office, they told me my prizes would be there in like 4 days took 3 weeks


----------



## Kryton

That's odd, I have everything I won in the contest.

Although it took some time, it all came through without a hitch.

BTW, here's a Happy Birthday to Pio!
















Been messing around with the 775 and my AM3 as of late but now I have my Opty 180 in the Expert board, letting it have some run time. 
Been busy with a few things/comps and haven't had alot of time to simply hang out.


----------



## 420Assassin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


That's odd, I have everything I won in the contest.

Although it took some time, it all came through without a hitch.

BTW, here's a Happy Birthday to Pio!


















what u win? i looks like all my winners u were on list got theres. i have u as cpu, and 5 port usb hub.

Nate vid card and cssorkman sound card. pretty sure i got confirmation from all that got there.. ya did take some time, post office told me 3-4 days, then think took like 3 weeks..

I'm sure other donors stuff will get here next friday i think would be the 4 week mark from when he said he shipped so by then if still not there thats when i think can start to be like whats up.

and happy bday pio


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *420Assassin*


i have u as cpu, and 5 port usb hub.


That's correct and it's all here.


----------



## ny_driver

Well, on March 22nd I received an email from the prize donor apologizing for the delay and was told that on Saturday the 26th it would be mailed at the latest. Today is April 15th.

I sent him an email last Thursday or Friday and haven't heard back. I offered to pay for the shipping in the first place which he declined.









Hmmmmmm........the only thing I've ever shipped that took more than a week was when I shipped a guitar to California UPS and that was only 12 days.


----------



## SwishaMane

Might as well forget about it NY. What do you want for that 2x512 OCZ BH-5? I got some OCZ plats with TCCD I'll trade ya. Iv ealrdy got some Corsair TCCD dimms, could use some BH-5.

EDIT: Ya know, its actually pretty funny, I just had a dream last night that my RAM showed up. I popped it open, went "ooohhh" cause its decent RAM, used to have some... and was like "FINALLY", even in the dream, LOL


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane;13136579*
> Might as well forget about it NY. What do you want for that 2x512 OCZ BH-5? I got some OCZ plats with TCCD I'll trade ya. Iv ealrdy got some Corsair TCCD dimms, could use some BH-5.
> 
> EDIT: Ya know, its actually pretty funny, I just had a dream last night that my RAM showed up. I popped it open, went "ooohhh" cause its decent RAM, used to have some... and was like "FINALLY", even in the dream, LOL


Hehe I'm sure it'll be on it's way eventually.

Those are CH-5 I believe anyways, I was mistaken before.
Not for sale sorry, I have plenty more 939 benching to do.


----------



## SwishaMane

WELL THATS IT! Im tired of waiting on this gosh danged, mammahuggin, inner part of feces, RAM to show up, I wanna fire this FX55 up... Sad day is sad.

ha, mammahuggin.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Again, I am very sorry about the delays personally. I wish there was something I could do about it.


----------



## 420Assassin

no worries pio im not blaming you nor are anyone else i would imagine. it was said during contest that prizes are between winners and donors.. My 939 rig is lookin SWEET now just mising a mouse really and a gpu with aftermarket cooler lol should be in shipping as it was my prize, but ya everything else is aftermarket cooler or performance part. here few pics or parts







Thumb-nailed them to help loading times for you guys too lol
Rig


Monitor

KeyBoard


next purchase is a laptop off budy for like $280CND Gateway 15.4" Laptop Intel Pentium Processor T4200 (M-7332H) 4GB Ram, and a 320GB HDD i believe..


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


A refurb Big Typhoon for $5 is apparently no big deal










Just got back from a trip. I would get it as long as shipping is cheap, but it's sold out







.


----------



## StormX2

ive got a big typhoon layin aroudn somewhere in my Parents house.

I told mystep dad its his if we wants to try it on the 3700 or Opty 165 I sold him

but I doubt he will lol


----------



## theCanadian

The big typhoon is still pretty boss, maybe not the best for a 145W+ CPU, but it can certainly keep it within spec, even with an OC. Keeps my 720BE a balmy 35C.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Curious...but did the famed "anonymous donor" ever get the prizes out to you guys that won?


----------



## dodger.blue

I just moved into a new apartment and when digging through some boxes I came upon my old Lanparty UT NF4 Ultra-D which I plan to frame and mount to my wall. As I no longer have any of the components, I cannot get it up and running for a CPU-Z score, however photo evidence is surely enough to join such a fine club?


----------



## pioneerisloud

I miss mine. Such a great board, and such great potential.

Did you ever overclock the snot out of that board? If so, how high were you able to get the board to (reference clock)?


----------



## dodger.blue

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*











I miss mine. Such a great board, and such great potential.

Did you ever overclock the snot out of that board? If so, how high were you able to get the board to (reference clock)?


I got my X2 4400+ to 2.7ghz in an original Thermaltake Armor case. I never tried out the SLI hack-thingy on it as I had an X850 XT (of which I also still have apparently as that was in the same box). I'll have to dig through some old hard drives as I think I have a screenshot of said overclock, but it's possible it didn't survive all of these years.

EDIT: I can't remember what I had the board set to, though.


----------



## SwishaMane

sweet, put it to use...


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dodger.blue*


I just moved into a new apartment and when digging through some boxes I came upon my old Lanparty UT NF4 Ultra-D which I plan to frame and mount to my wall. As I no longer have any of the components, I cannot get it up and running for a CPU-Z score, however photo evidence is surely enough to join such a fine club?











Damn, I need that fan. The one on my folding rig is starting to make some noise.

I still have two of those boards, SLI modded.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*   Damn, I need that fan. The one on my folding rig is starting to make some noise.

I still have two of those boards, SLI modded.







  
I do believe I used    this cooler on my old MSI NF4 SLI rig that I had ages ago. It did its job fine, and it beat that noisy dying stock fan.


----------



## SwishaMane

That'll get the job done... I got that fan on the vmodded board I got that took 1st in the contest, its decent enough...


----------



## 420Assassin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Curious...but did the famed "anonymous donor" ever get the prizes out to you guys that won?


still havnt seen anything here







kinda sad bout it was stoked for new vid card


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;13372210*
> I do believe I used this cooler on my old MSI NF4 SLI rig that I had ages ago. It did its job fine, and it beat that noisy dying stock fan.


Yeah Ive looked at those before. They seem pretty decent. Do you remember if the base on those was smooth or was it rough like the stock DFI heat sink?
I lapped a stock one and that dropped nb temps by 10C.


----------



## ny_driver

I find that if you install the stock NB HS and then don't disturb the TIM by bumping it when inserting the gpu, the temps stay much lower.

No prize for me yet. I guess mr. anonymous is MIA. Here is the email I recieved from him on March 22nd. I was expecting to actually get my prize about the first week of April at the latest.

"Hey guys,

Just wanted to tell you I've finally got enough budget saved up to send you guys your prizes.

They'll be going out sometime this week, depending entirely on when I can get to the post office. Most days it's almost impossible to get there after work before they close, but I'll do my best to send them out ASAP. If I don't make it there during the week days, your stuff will be on its way on Saturday.

Thanks for your patience. Hope you're all doing well.

- Joe"

He no longer responds to emails. Real nice!!


----------



## Blitz6804

Guys, relax. Seriously. Between his job and his personal life, he's being torn here, there, and everywhere. Give him a bit, he will get them shipped, I promise.


----------



## ny_driver

If I could at least get a reply with a reason for the extended delay I could relax. Actually I think we are being very relaxed about the whole situation. He is the one who sent out the email with the exact date he would ship it by.

It has been an excessively long time now since the contest ended and everyone has plans for their prizes.

I offered on more than 1 occasion to pay for the shipping, which strangely enough was declined.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I'm sorry I asked....

Honestly, I have no doubt in my mind that he will get them shipped. Like Blitz said, he's been a very busy guy lately. I know that the delay sucks though. I wish there was something more I could do about it though.

So yeah, just try not to get too terribly mad about it. I'll look into it and see what's up.


----------



## SwishaMane

What are you doing with those keybard you won Pio? Looking to sell one? I think I remember the donor saying they were both cherry MX switch boards, etc... Im looking for a nice keyboard.

Haven't got my prize yet either.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane;13379839*
> What are you doing with those keybard you won Pio? Looking to sell one? I think I remember the donor saying they were both cherry MX switch boards, etc... Im looking for a nice keyboard.
> 
> Haven't got my prize yet either.


One was a super el cheapo iBuyPower keyboard. Gave it away with a Dell P4 rig I sold the other day to cover car parts.

The other is a Swedish el cheapo keyboard with red WASD and arrow keys. The Swedish part is throwing me off my game though, lol.


----------



## SwishaMane

Oh, they were cheapos huh... damn, I thought they were decent. kk, thanks


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Guys, relax. Seriously. Between his job and his personal life, he's being torn here, there, and everywhere. Give him a bit, he will get them shipped, I promise.


+1.

Just chill guys, Joe is a good guy and I'm sure he wouldn't stiff you on your prizes. Sometimes *poop* happens, and things don't happen as they should.

I know that last time I had spoken with him, he was doing the job of two people at work and had a lot going on personally.

I'm sure he'll respond to you guys soon.


----------



## dodger.blue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ny_driver;13377080*
> I find that if you install the stock NB HS and then don't disturb the TIM by bumping it when inserting the gpu, the temps stay much lower.


Haha, in the picture you can see that the "DFI" got all scratched off of the fan from exactly that, bumping the GPU into it!


----------



## 420Assassin

if u need a NB cooler i have this moded to fit nicely trimmed of 2 tabs drilled holes in proper location and shaved a bit on bottom to make clearance for some stuff..
fan can be a bit on the louder side when on at max speed. even at low speed i could still hear it a bit


----------



## Hey_Hi_Hello

Gosh, I really wouldn't mind putting together the following rig: AMD Athlon 64 X2 3800+ (socket 939 only!), 2GB low latency ram, and one of my favourite graphics card - reference design 7800GTX 256MB. And would play GTA San Andreas like there's no tomorrow! Just like I played in old good 2005!


----------



## addersnake

Oh yes - you guys are after my own heart! I am working on a new project with a couple (namely three) of AMD Athlon 939 CPU's for my workshop - I shall let you know the results forthwith - Spec will be AMD Athlon (of some sort whichever is most stable at around 2.5 - 3.0ghz! 4gb DDR Kingston Memory, AsRock 939A790GMH Motherboard AMD Socket 939 64FX/64X2, Windows 7 Pro 64bit with some half decent ATI Radeon HD4XXX Graphics card - specs all to follow with Validations....


----------



## SwishaMane

Sweet! Screenies and pics or its fake, you know thats the rules around here?


----------



## addersnake

Yes no worries, I am working on this as we speak - I love the 939 still to this day so much potential even now...

SwishaMane BTW sweet picture of a nice mod there!


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *420Assassin*


if u need a NB cooler i have this moded to fit nicely trimmed of 2 tabs drilled holes in proper location and shaved a bit on bottom to make clearance for some stuff.. 
fan can be a bit on the louder side when on at max speed. even at low speed i could still hear it a bit







 That does look like a nice cooler. Is there a fan that comes with it? That's actually what's starting to make noise on mine. The actual heatsink is still in very nice shape. I lapped one of them, don't remember which board it's actually residing on since I have 3 DFI's still (2 SLI modded Ultra-D's, and a CFX3200DR).







I figure if worse comes to worst, I'll just take it apart and try to lube it or replace the bearing.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hey_Hi_Hello*


Gosh, I really wouldn't mind putting together the following rig: AMD Athlon 64 X2 3800+ (socket 939 only!), 2GB low latency ram, and one of my favourite graphics card - reference design 7800GTX 256MB. And would play GTA San Andreas like there's no tomorrow! Just like I played in old good 2005!


I have some of the pieces you'd be keen on getting. 3800x2, 2GB Corsair Platinums, and a nice DFI board to put it on. No 7800 GTX, but hows about a nice 768 MB 9600GSO or a 1GB 4870?









Quote:



Originally Posted by *addersnake*


Oh yes - you guys are after my own heart! I am working on a new project with a couple (namely three) of AMD Athlon 939 CPU's for my workshop - I shall let you know the results forthwith - Spec will be AMD Athlon (of some sort whichever is most stable at around 2.5 - 3.0ghz! 4gb DDR Kingston Memory, AsRock 939A790GMH Motherboard AMD Socket 939 64FX/64X2, Windows 7 Pro 64bit with some half decent ATI Radeon HD4XXX Graphics card - specs all to follow with Validations....


I so would like to get my hands on one of those boards --just for kicks and giggles.

I wanna see what that new chipset can do with a 939.


----------



## 420Assassin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


That does look like a nice cooler. Is there a fan that comes with it? That's actually what's starting to make noise on mine. The actual heatsink is still in very nice shape. I lapped one of them, don't remember which board it's actually residing on since I have 3 DFI's still (2 SLI modded Ultra-D's, and a CFX3200DR).







I figure if worse comes to worst, I'll just take it apart and try to lube it or replace the bearing.










ya those pics from when moding.. here pics just took.. also i grinded away 1 area for clearance from a piece on mobo .. but cant notice from top view..


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hey_Hi_Hello;13440640*
> Gosh, I really wouldn't mind putting together the following rig: AMD Athlon 64 X2 3800+ (socket 939 only!), 2GB low latency ram, and one of my favourite graphics card - reference design 7800GTX 256MB. And would play GTA San Andreas like there's no tomorrow! Just like I played in old good 2005!


That's why I still have most everything I've ever ran here.
No telling when I might want to breakout some of the good 'ol hardware for old times sake.

One of my Untra D's is probrably dead, the other is working but might be on it's way out but the Expert is still kicking. The A8N32 as of late is acting funky, doesn't want to load or even install an OS for some reason. That's OK though since I have other toys here.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


+1.

Just chill guys,........................I'm sure he'll respond to you guys soon.


6 more days with no reply.


----------



## NCoastTweaker

Got me one of those asrock boards... 939A790GMH with the 790gx chipset.. I like it.. put a xpsc rasa cooler on it... runs good at 2.8ghz


----------



## NCoastTweaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *addersnake;13440736*
> Oh yes - you guys are after my own heart! I am working on a new project with a couple (namely three) of AMD Athlon 939 CPU's for my workshop - I shall let you know the results forthwith - Spec will be AMD Athlon (of some sort whichever is most stable at around 2.5 - 3.0ghz! 4gb DDR Kingston Memory, AsRock 939A790GMH Motherboard AMD Socket 939 64FX/64X2, Windows 7 Pro 64bit with some half decent ATI Radeon HD4XXX Graphics card - specs all to follow with Validations....


my 2nd sys antec p-182 case, pc&c 550w psu, crucial ballistix pc4000 clocked at 240mhz, msi k8n neo4h nf4 mobo, xfx hd-5850 vga, AMD 4800+ 10X240 (stable) on air.. stock amd 4 heatpipe cooler.. 3800 rpm fan.. abit loud but gets er done


----------



## Blitz6804

ny_driver et alii: I just heard back from the donor. As I said, his live has been extremely crazy lately. He hopes to have everything shipped soon. Please just wait a little longer.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


ny_driver et alii: I just heard back from the donor. As I said, his live has been extremely crazy lately. He hopes to have everything shipped soon. Please just wait a little longer.


Yeah NY, didn't you get the memo, early September... n00b







LOL New Yorker's always impatient, only been 4 months man, RELAX.


----------



## 420Assassin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*


Yeah NY, didn't you get the memo, early September... n00b







LOL New Yorker's always impatient, only been 4 months man, RELAX.










ya i felt bad when took me week longer than expected to get shipped out lol.. but glad to hear he hasnt forgotten bout us







cant wait to get although getting a 260 core 216 for my rig so his vid card i won will be a backup but may use foor a short wile for fun..


----------



## pioneerisloud

No worries guys. I've gotten parts from him before. And they're WELL worth the wait, assuming you really do want it.









And glad to see somebody's getting some use out of one of them ASRock boards.







How's that board treating you NCoastTweaker?


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


ny_driver et alii: I just heard back from the donor. As I said, his live has been extremely crazy lately. He hopes to have everything shipped soon. Please just wait a little longer.


Thanks for the update.


----------



## ny_driver

UPDATE: been 2 more weeks and I'm still waiting.









Something isn't right about the whole situation. I OFFERED TO PAY FOR THE SHIPPING and still I can't get my prize, or a reply from the donor.

What's the story.............







.......there's gotta be more to it than life has been crazy lately.


----------



## Blitz6804

There is, but that is his to share in public. He has told me in private (and I assume, in confidence) what the holdup was, and trust me, he wants to get this done quickly. He is very sorry it has taken this long, but things have been outside of his control.


----------



## ny_driver

Thanks for the info.
I hope things get better soon for our prize donor. Sounds like something bad happened.


----------



## bratas

I didn't know people were still using socket 939. I just took my system down as soon as i got my SB rig up and running.


----------



## SwishaMane

Dude, ppl are still using Pentium 1 and 2s and 3s, Socket A, 939, and ALL other sockets... The majority of ppl on this forum, no, but in REAL life, hell yeah. For general computing needs, a socket A is enough, let alone dual core 939s, and the like. Intense 3D, no way, but you know...


----------



## CiX

Anyone using stock cooler here? Now I OC my Athlon to 2.16 Ghz from 2.07Ghz. The temp is fine, but I'm not sure if I should OC it even further or not. I can only raise the FSB speed with my mobo.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CiX*


Anyone using stock cooler here? Now I OC my Athlon to 2.16 Ghz from 2.07Ghz. The temp is fine, but I'm not sure if I should OC it even further or not. I can only raise the FSB speed with my mobo.


That's the only way you CAN overclock a Socket 939 chip.







Unless its an FX series.

You're likely fine to go higher. You should reach at least 2.5GHz as a guess. Just knock your memory down once it gets too high, and push further. Increase vcore as needed, and watch temps.


----------



## CiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;13800785*
> That's the only way you CAN overclock a Socket 939 chip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unless its an FX series.
> 
> You're likely fine to go higher. You should reach at least 2.5GHz as a guess. Just knock your memory down once it gets too high, and push further. Increase vcore as needed, and watch temps.


My mobo dont allow me to adjust vcore and others, only FSB speed







, but I think I should be able to reach 2.3Ghz


----------



## CiX

Guys is my OC alright?

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1862287


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CiX*


Guys is my OC alright?

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1862287


Can you not use the 10x multiplier? Looks like a solid start though.


----------



## 420Assassin

your ram is hurting you mix speeds, mixed sizes.. should try to get those matched up


----------



## CiX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Can you not use the 10x multiplier? Looks like a solid start though.










Multiplier 9x maximum only...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *420Assassin*


your ram is hurting you mix speeds, mixed sizes.. should try to get those matched up


I only have these RAM currently









BTW is my rated FSB alright?


----------



## Blitz6804

I think it is entirely possible I have spent too much time in here...

If we look at everyone who ever posted here, nearly half my posts on the forum is in this thread (was 54% when I became a moderator), and I have more than either co-founder! :eeek: Fortunately for my sanity, txtmstrjoe and thlnk3r together get 4621, beating my 3716.


----------



## ny_driver

Wow it's been over a month since I inquired about my prize......how time flies.


----------



## N2Gaming

I spent a lot of time in the 939 club as well. Had it not been for the club I probably would not have become an OCN member


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N2Gaming;13983919*
> I spent a lot of time in the 939 club as well. Had it not been for the club I probably would not have become an OCN member


Same here.


----------



## ny_driver

And I never would have become the King of 939 overclocking.









All I own are socket 939s.....about a dozen of them.

Socket 939 rules.


----------



## SwishaMane

939 does rule! Still wanna get that fx55 going, but no RAM...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane;13997630*
> 939 does rule! Still wanna get that fx55 going, but no RAM...


Yeah I know. I'm still missing DDR400 for my girlfriend's build.







Been waiting for DesertRat to ship me some for 3 months now.







I'm tired of her taking my rig all the time.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ny_driver;13987567*
> And I never would have become the King of 939 overclocking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All I own are socket 939s.....about a dozen of them.
> 
> Socket 939 rules.


I got about a dozen 939 chips, but only my one board (A8N-E) from the contest...







Best 939 board Ive ever owned, and IVe had like 4 DFIs... including a sli-D and expert... Thats bad, lol...


----------



## SwishaMane

So, I put my 939 combo on my main rig for giggles... Well, this FX-55 I got from NY sucks! No offense bro, but it took 1.48vcore to boot at 2.8, and I pushed to 1.55 for 2.9, no boot. Gonna push it through the roof, 1.8vcore son. Temps are damn good tho. Super high end loop on a 939, LOL.

Gonna be popping my mint 4400+ in here soon I think...

This is my ASUS A8N-E with sli Deluxe BIOS
8800GTX 768MB w/ Arctic Accelero 648 core / 1000mem
Corsair XMS 4404's, Samsung TCCD

CPU's to use will be FX-55, 4400+, Opty 165.


----------



## 420Assassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;13998476*
> Yeah I know. I'm still missing DDR400 for my girlfriend's build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Been waiting for DesertRat to ship me some for 3 months now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm tired of her taking my rig all the time.


pio u need some ddr400 i got 2 sets of 2x512MB and 1 set of 2x1GB ( damaged but working 100%)

first 2x512MB - Smart Modular infineon chips
2nd -not sure brand hynix chip

2x1GB OXZ Platinum XTC 2-3-2-5 OCZP4002GK


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *420Assassin*


pio u need some ddr400 i got 2 sets of 2x512MB and 1 set of 2x1GB ( damaged but working 100%)

first 2x512MB - Smart Modular infineon chips
2nd -not sure brand hynix chip

2x1GB OXZ Platinum XTC 2-3-2-5 OCZP4002GK


I'm not entirely sure yet. I might be buying some cheap AM3 combo's to build the HTPC's out of instead of using that old Dell. Depends on if I get my lappy sold.


----------



## 420Assassin

kk man just let me know the 512mb sticks would let go of cheap maby like $10 for the set of 2x512MB then i could prob cover shipping aswell. will make like $5 on them i imagine


----------



## SwishaMane

$5 is totally worth it!


----------



## nategr8ns

I can't believe its been 2 weeks since the last post in here!

My socket 939 rig is giving me troubles yet again. It locked up on me (again) and when I rebooted, my audio was all high-pitched. It is playing all sounds at faster than normal speeds.
I uninstalled my audio codecs, uninstalled all drivers and related software (realtek/nvidia sound suites) and still have the issue.

What am I doing wrong? I can't catch a break lately.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Nate, have you checked your RAM fully? Could also be a CPU instability as well (IMC). My 2 best guesses.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


I can't believe its been 2 weeks since the last post in here!

My socket 939 rig is giving me troubles yet again. It locked up on me (again) and when I rebooted, my audio was all high-pitched. It is playing all sounds at faster than normal speeds.
I uninstalled my audio codecs, uninstalled all drivers and related software (realtek/nvidia sound suites) and still have the issue.

What am I doing wrong? I can't catch a break lately.


Try fresh OS install to check audio. IF it still does it, its obvious damage to the audio controller, I would think.


----------



## nategr8ns

Memtest and OCCT had no complains.

I will try booting off a persistent Ubuntu drive and see what happens.

edit: It seems as if the issue is my onboard sound controller







. The sound issue happens in Ubuntu as well. Isn't there some obscure BIOS setting that deals with the onboard audio that may be my issue? This happened right after resetting my cmos.


----------



## SwishaMane

Good thing its just audio... Throw an audigy card in there...


----------



## nategr8ns

I don't have an audigy. All my old sound cards are unsupported by Windows 7







. My brother has a logitech USB headset that I'm about to go borrow.


----------



## nategr8ns

Alright, no luck finding audio settings in BIOS... I wish there were descriptions on more things.

USB headphones just aren't cutting it.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nategr8ns;14328750*
> Alright, no luck finding audio settings in BIOS... I wish there were descriptions on more things.
> 
> USB headphones just aren't cutting it.


You might be able to modify the USB cable at the twisted pair for the pos/neg speaker wires to add a plug that will allow you to plug in your regular speaker wires


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N2Gaming;14328831*
> You might be able to modify the USB cable at the twisted pair for the pos/neg speaker wires to add a plug that will allow you to plug in your regular speaker wires


I thought about that, but they're not my headphones to [possibly] break.

I bet someone in here has a handy page bookmarked with explanations of all/most of the NF4 bios settings...


----------



## N2Gaming

Oh you are using a DFI

You will only be able to use either the front or the rear audio outbputs at a time. You may not use both front or rear at the same time and iirc additionally there is a few jumper shunts for the setting on both the mobo and the soundcard adaptor to get it to work properly w/the Karjan Audio riser for either the front or rear output modes.

How long have you had this DFI NF4 Ultra D?


----------



## tubnotub1

I have went through a number of processors since I first started building computers back when San Diego was *the* CPU to go with. My old Opteron 165 has a special place in my heart, in as much as I still remember the stepping (CCBBE 0617 FPMW). That processor did 3.0 easy. I have never had a more willing processor, and too think, it was the first processor I ever overclocked. I have been running Intel since I received an engineering sample of the Intel X6800, but when people ask my what my favorite processor of all time was, every time I have to go with that good ole Opty 165. Good times. Glad to see people are still running 939.


----------



## 420Assassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N2Gaming;14335199*
> Oh you are using a DFI
> 
> You will only be able to use either the front or the rear audio outbputs at a time. You may not use both front or rear at the same time and iirc additionally there is a few jumper shunts for the setting on both the mobo and the soundcard adaptor to get it to work properly w/the Karjan Audio riser for either the front or rear output modes.
> 
> How long have you had this DFI NF4 Ultra D?


i run a dfi sig rig and can use both front and rear audio at same time. from plugged into monitor speakers, rear is home stereo


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *420Assassin;14337324*
> i run a dfi sig rig and can use both front and rear audio at same time. from plugged into monitor speakers, rear is home stereo


I couldn't get it to work... If I had the front ports plugged into the mobo, it would disable the rear ports.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N2Gaming;14335199*
> Oh you are using a DFI
> 
> You will only be able to use either the front or the rear audio outbputs at a time. You may not use both front or rear at the same time and iirc additionally there is a few jumper shunts for the setting on both the mobo and the soundcard adaptor to get it to work properly w/the Karjan Audio riser for either the front or rear output modes.
> 
> How long have you had this DFI NF4 Ultra D?


This isn't the issue at all though. My issue is that the sound coming out of the onboard sound card is sped up. MP3s etc. play at 2-3x normal speed, and even live audio (like voice chat) will play 2-3x in whatever chunks my computer downloads them in.


----------



## ny_driver

What's up everyone? I'm building Jeeps these days. Any word on them prizes?


----------



## SwishaMane

Nope... Only been 7 months NY BE PATIENT!!! lol

I got a spare Audigy if you need a decent sound card Nate. pm me


----------



## pioneerisloud

I'll get in touch with the donor next time I catch him online. See what he has to say.

I'm terribly sorry about that mess guys. If I had anything, anything at all that I could spare to send out I would.


----------



## SwishaMane

Just in case anyone was interested by me putting my old 939 setup on my nice ass main rig, its kinda a slump. The motherboard just can't put out anymore... The slightest FSB adjustment is just too weak, and drive strengths are normal in BIOS.

RAM is questionable, but I got two sets of TCCD, one corsair 1GB kit, and a OCZ 1GB set. Tried some generic OCZ dd400s, and same. Anything over 210 crashes easy, and I remember being 2 hours OCCT stable at 235+fsb @1:1 ratio...

How do you guys get 150mhz DRAM freq., sometimes even better, on these old 939s, Ive had no luck.


----------



## FlawleZ

Anyone have a Toledo that clocks to 3Ghz+ stable they're willing to part with? Maybe possible trade or something? I've always had resentment for my Opty 180 that won't go a touch past 2760Mhz stable.


----------



## SwishaMane

That sucks, my opty 165 will do like 3.1... My 4400 could only get 2.8, but I'm on a junk board.


----------



## FlawleZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*


That sucks, my opty 165 will do like 3.1... My 4400 could only get 2.8, but I'm on a junk board.


Yeah it can boot to Windows at ~3Ghz but it crashes under load. 2.8-2.9Ghz is usable for light stuff like internet but under stress testing it fails pretty early on. Sucked because when I had originally upgraded from my 4000+ that would do 3.2Ghz stable on the same board/ram.


----------



## SwishaMane

The only chip I could ever get stable 3ghz+ was my ES. 3.16 I believe...Had two FX-60s that couldn't even do 2.9 stable... Never had luck with Toledo. lol


----------



## nategr8ns

I could only get my 175 to 2.7 stable-stable, 2.8 mostly-stable.
And my 170 2.7 kinda stable, only 2.5 stable-stable.


----------



## murderbymodem

I'd love to get a 939 rig going again, there are so many old processors for super cheap on eBay, but for some reason it's impossible to find (equally cheap) motherboards for them.

for example, I see tons of batches of old Socket 940 Opterons (as many as 12) for a mere $30, but 940 boards are rare and most of them are $100+. Same for the 939. Processors for under $10, and not many motherboards at all, but if they are there, they're at buy it now for $60+.

I could buy a brand new AM3+ motherboard for $60


----------



## nategr8ns

My brother just bought a used 1155 board for that much. It is a little ridiculous.

I payed $60 for a DFI Ultra-D a few years ago on eBay, and it came dead







.

BTW: I think I solved my computer's random locking-up issue. My GTX-285 may have been over taxing my 600W power supply. Does this make sense to anybody?


----------



## murderbymodem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nategr8ns;14357601*
> My brother just bought a used 1155 board for that much. It is a little ridiculous.


Yeah, I went with AM3+ for my example, but there are brand new 1155 boards on Newegg for $60 as well! I suppose it make sense that motherboards are more expensive though. In my experience with computers, the motherboard has always been the component I've had the most trouble with. Not so much with my main rigs that use $120+ motherboards in, but with my LAN rig that I always buy cheaper MicroATX boards for, they never seem to last.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nategr8ns;14357601*
> My brother just bought a used 1155 board for that much. It is a little ridiculous.
> 
> I payed $60 for a DFI Ultra-D a few years ago on eBay, and it came dead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> BTW: I think I solved my computer's random locking-up issue. My GTX-285 may have been over taxing my 600W power supply. Does this make sense to anybody?


Seeing as how Ultra doesn't really make the best PSU's, it very easily could be the problem. Might be rated in peak power, and probably somewhere around 500-550w or so on the 12v rails. It very easily could be the PSU.









And man, I miss my Opty so badly.







3.1GHz stable on air with my DFI board, and I think I had my RAM at like DDR560 or something. I don't even remember who ended up with it... But I've NEVER worked so hard for such an overclock ever before. It took me like 3 YEARS to wrestle 3.1 out of it, and so many other parts of hardware.


----------



## SwishaMane

Wow 939 CPUs under $10, no way... The lowest lien dual core is $50 minimum it seems,a nd anything decent 939, 4400+, is in the $125+ range. This is something my ES AGAIN gets credit for, best dual core 939 CPU Ive EVAR messed with, got it on a steal for $100... BUT, it only boots in certain mobos, so its a trade off...

I understand that the older, low line chips are cheap, a single core 3200+ for $10, all day long yeah, but those chips are bunk.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


BTW: I think I solved my computer's random locking-up issue. My GTX-285 may have been over taxing my 600W power supply. Does this make sense to anybody?


nVidia suggests a 550 W PSU for a GTX 285. It is rated to draw 208 W, but if you overclock, you can easily hit the 225 W it can theoretically take. (PCIe + 2x6-pin.) If your board is willing (PCIe 2.0) it could theoretically give 300 W, but you would need one heck of an overclock to do that since the GTX 285 voltage is fixed.


----------



## nategr8ns

But even at stock CPU and stock graphics card, I was having the lockups.
They seem to have gone away when switching back to my 8800GT, and my brother hasn't had issues with my GTX 285 in his computer.


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, as Pio said, it might be the Ultra lying and only putting out 500 W, not the rated 600 W. The GPU would draw 17 A on the 12 V line by itself, irrespective of the rest of the system. Ultra *claims* to put out 32 A on the 12 V, but you would need to check with a multimeter.


----------



## SwishaMane

I've had a couple Ultra PSU, higher end ones, and they've always done GREAT! In fact, to this day, both work well, and I don't even own them anymore. Like an Ultra X3 800 watt, damn nice unit, 80a single 12v rail... I'd guess it could do at least 70a. Back in my 939 days, I was using an ultra 550 watt X connect 2 I think. Modular, was a decent unit... I guess. lol


----------



## nategr8ns

I was eying a rebranded Enermax 850W or 900W of some sort, but I'm not bringing a desktop to college (939 rig wasn't stable enough at the time of me driving my stuff out there).

Now that I have [probably] eliminated my problems with this computer, do you guys want to wallk me through step-by-step overclocking with the DFI?

I'm completely back to stock. Only problem is that I'm using 4 DIMMs of DDR500... It defaults to 3-3-3-7 @ 166MHz though







. Would be nice to run it at DDR400 speeds or higher, though I'm not sure about timings.


----------



## Hueristic

Sup Peops/Br0's been awhile but back online and wanted to say YO!









Miss you'll


----------



## Blitz6804

OMG!!! We started to fear the worst!









Why did you have to make us worry like that!?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;14399806*
> OMG!!! We started to fear the worst!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why did you have to make us worry like that!?


Worry LOL you guys know how to find mer if need be.







And Damn, Made the mistake of installing Nvidia's latest and had to reinstall OS!!!

I haven't had to reinstall in years. How sad I've forgotten a ton since I've been gone!









Forgot how long it takes to get everything back up, friggin New vid drivers bite! Keep changing my 35" CRT to HDTV and there is no way to change back!!



















































Finally talked a buddy into upgradeing to 939 (He's been adamant about leaving Socket 754... but dual channel did it!)! LOL he won't leave DDR1 And just upgraded his AGP to X850.







I gave hime a Opty 144 and he bought the asrock sataII cause of the M1695. He had to d a cap job. Lol now he's looking to a pci-e vid card


----------



## jonnypitiful

I have an opteron 180 that goes to 2.75ghz stable, 2x1gb of ocz platinum that goes to 500mhz+ @ 3-3-3-7, stock is 2-3-2-5. Also might be gettin rid of my DFI SLI-DR. But its having issues with the bios. I reset the bios, flashed it and it still responds very slowly.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Sup Peops/Br0's been awhile but back online and wanted to say YO!









Miss you'll




















Holy smokes!! Havent seen you since 'nam!

How the hell have you been?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Sup Peops/Br0's been awhile but back online and wanted to say YO!









Miss you'll










I must've refreshed this page while my internet was flakey. I'm SURE I would've seen Hue posting again!!!!!!!!!!!







Welcome back!!!!


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*











Holy smokes!! Havent seen you since 'nam!

How the hell have you been?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I must've refreshed this page while my internet was flakey. I'm SURE I would've seen Hue posting again!!!!!!!!!!!







Welcome back!!!!


Sup Guys! Got the 7k electric bill handled so I'm back on the Grid! LOL It was tough running off generator for 8 months!

Well everything is squared away on that front so hopefully will have my life in order in the next few months.

Finally got my back pay on the SSDI, so I have tons of stuff to get done.

Looking forward to getting back into posting and OC'ing.

Can't believe BD isn't out yet! I'm alreaDY TO BUILD (DAMN CAPS LOCK!) a new HTPC/[email protected] system and the CPU I've been waiting on *still* isn't out yet!!!

I can't believe I got paid before the chip came out! AMD GET on the BALL!!!

So What have I missed? I can't read back all these Months!






































You guys see N2's new place? Looks like he got a great deal.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well our 939 club is slowly dying out sadly. To be expected from hardware that old, even though its still a solid choice. You clearly jumped clear over Sandy Bridge, everyone loves it (myself included, yes I joined the dark side....).

Otherwise not really a whole lot happenin' over here right now that I know of at least.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;14478361*
> Well our 939 club is slowly dying out sadly. To be expected from hardware that old, even though its still a solid choice. You clearly jumped clear over Sandy Bridge, everyone loves it (myself included, yes I joined the dark side....).
> 
> Otherwise not really a whole lot happenin' over here right now that I know of at least.


Yeah that's pretty funny, Ivy will be out soon and still no BD!!! Damn What a bummer.









I thought for sure I'd be able to build a BD system when I got back online


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Yeah that's pretty funny, Ivy will be out soon and still no BD!!! Damn What a bummer.









I thought for sure I'd be able to build a BD system when I got back online































I couldn't wait, I needed something in April. Had cash, had the itch to upgrade, so Sandy Bridge was my only choice available at the time.







Guess its not that big of a deal, since Ivy Bridge is scheduled to be released early next year with compatibility with current P67 / z68 boards, so that might not be a bad thing for me to wait for at this point.

If Bulldozer shows to be a good choice (clock for clock, core for core can meet or beat SB), then I might consider switching back. Depends on if I can find somebody to do a trade with me at that time, and how Bulldozer actually fares up.

I'm a huge price / performance fanboy, so I'll buy whatever fits my budget and gives me the biggest performance.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I'm a huge price / performance fanboy, so I'll buy whatever fits my budget and gives me the biggest performance.










You just described me.









PPD/WATT this time and only 1 system [email protected] 24/7. I gott live on a udget now


----------



## Phaedrus2129

Can anyone tell me anything about this processor? All I know is it's an Athlon64 3000+, but there were several of those.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Phaedrus, here you go.

Basically, a Winchester single-core A64 3000+. 1.8GHz, 90nm process, OEM CPU.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Phaedrus2129*


Can anyone tell me anything about this processor? All I know is it's an Athlon64 3000+, but there were several of those.












Quote:



Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*


Phaedrus, here you go.

Basically, a Winchester single-core A64 3000+. 1.8GHz, 90nm process, OEM CPU.


Bingo! Should overclock nicely. I'm sure 2.5GHz+ is within reach easy enough.







I don't recall the Winchester's going too terribly much further, but who knows?

That chip looks like it needs a de-lidding to be fully functional.







Do I smell a de-lidding thread coming in the near future, and some epic NF4 setup from Phaedrus? I can hope so.


----------



## Phaedrus2129

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Bingo! Should overclock nicely. I'm sure 2.5GHz+ is within reach easy enough.







I don't recall the Winchester's going too terribly much further, but who knows?

That chip looks like it needs a de-lidding to be fully functional.







Do I smell a de-lidding thread coming in the near future, and some epic NF4 setup from Phaedrus? I can hope so.










Nah, just curious. Only 939 board I have is some crap OEM one made by Foxconn. Don't think it even has overclocking options.

I'm selling the CPU for $15 if anyone's interested.


----------



## nukefission

hellos
I have an old am2 sempy and 2 939 athalons with burnt motherboards















just thought I`d pop in and observe this thread


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;14478361*
> Well our 939 club is slowly dying out sadly. To be expected from hardware that old, even though its still a solid choice. You clearly jumped clear over Sandy Bridge, everyone loves it (myself included, yes I joined the dark side....).
> 
> Otherwise not really a whole lot happenin' over here right now that I know of at least.


First off, good to see you back Hue!









We need to keep this club kicking guys - Perhaps in the near future a comp could be held here to get some interest going. Still have the hardware I was running and could be fired up again.

OK - I know we've all kinda upgraded beyond 939 and that was bound to happen sooner or later. Personally I'm still AMD and recently got a AM3+ Crosshair V board but it's kinda on the fritz ATM. Got an RMA approval today so it's going back - I'll let you guys know how that turns out. I'm sure Asus will take good care of me since their hardware over the years certainly has.

For those that are members of my home site, I can setup a comp as well there specifically for 939 benching if you'd like, no prob and can promise you'll be in good company - Plus you *will* have some competition to make it interesting.









If it's done, would be no sooner than September to get it going but I feel that October would be a better time since the weather is still kinda warm up until then for most of us.
With good 939 hardware getting harder to find each day, no sense in making it any harder on the stuff than we'd need it to be.
For those that are members there, let me know if you'd like to do that.

As for here, C'mon guys we can do something 939 related soon!


----------



## nategr8ns

I still haven't upgraded my desktop... In fact, I brought all my old components out west to bring to college (MSI K8N NF4, Opteron 175 that I thought was dead but seems fine now, 2x512MB Corsair ValueRAM).
But since I got my laptop, I haven't been using my desktop much.


----------



## JUGGERNAUTXTR

alienware aurora saved from goodwill store for $35
athlon 64 3200+
asus AI board a8n32sli deluxe MB
still running and screaming with a zalman 9900 attached at 2.4 g's


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nukefission;14487180*
> hellos
> I have an old am2 sempy and 2 939 athalons with burnt motherboards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just thought I`d pop in and observe this thread
























Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton;14539463*
> First off, good to see you back Hue!
























Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nategr8ns;14543264*
> I still haven't upgraded my desktop... In fact, I brought all my old components out west to bring to college (MSI K8N NF4, Opteron 175 that I thought was dead but seems fine now, 2x512MB Corsair ValueRAM).
> But since I got my laptop, I haven't been using my desktop much.
























Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JUGGERNAUTXTR;14546354*
> alienware aurora saved from goodwill store for $35
> athlon 64 3200+
> asus AI board a8n32sli deluxe MB
> still running and screaming with a zalman 9900 attached at 2.4 g's


----------



## froogle

Still running SKT939 (sig rig).

About to dive into Intel-land with a shameful purchase of an i3 2100 though. 
The Phenom II 955/960 etc. etc. is too old gen. I *might* wait for BullDozer...but I have a feeling that Intel will hold the price/performance for my budget.

My Athlon 64 X2 3800+ with superfast onboard ATI Xpress 200 graphics can still handle 720p HD YouTube though. My only reason to upgrade is lack of RAM (DDR costs a ton nowadays) and hanging when I have antivirus in the background.


----------



## JUGGERNAUTXTR

I wish i had cpu z to show and a good camera, currantly have it loaded with kubuntu 11.04
first computer i ever got to load a linux based OS with out issues.
I am still trying to figure out how to work it.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *froogle;14553762*
> Still running SKT939 (sig rig).
> 
> About to dive into Intel-land with a shameful purchase of an i3 2100 though.
> The Phenom II 955/960 etc. etc. is too old gen. I *might* wait for BullDozer...but I have a feeling that Intel will hold the price/performance for my budget.
> 
> My Athlon 64 X2 3800+ with superfast onboard ATI Xpress 200 graphics can still handle 720p HD YouTube though. My only reason to upgrade is lack of RAM (DDR costs a ton nowadays) and hanging when I have antivirus in the background.


I think alot of us are in this boat, If BD isn't out before IB then that's my final deadline. When it is out it still has to prove it's price/performance before I jump.
Sounds like you need to change AV vendor or try the schedule button.
















3800+ Is a great overclocker.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JUGGERNAUTXTR;14553857*
> I wish i had cpu z to show and a good camera, currantly have it loaded with kubuntu 11.04
> first computer i ever got to load a linux based OS with out issues.
> I am still trying to figure out how to work it.


Fun platform to learn on and this is the place to ask your questions. Welcome


----------



## Kryton

I've started thread at the home site about a possible 939 comp - Nothing definite yet and not sure if it will happen or not. That will be determined by interest shown and as I said before I don't think we'd need to jump right in, need to do some planning on it first and see what develops.









http://www.classicplatforms.com/foru...p=94151#p94151


----------



## murderbymodem

I may have finally found a somewhat decent Socket 939 motherboard for a decent price to see if my Opty 148 still works! I'm seriously hoping it was the Asrock Dual-Sata2939 that died instead of my awesome Opty.

I'm waiting for a PM back to see if he'll give me a decent enough price


----------



## Kryton

Good luck on that one. 
Maybe the 148 is OK, would be a shame for such a great chip to have gone bye-bye as my Opty 152 did and possibly my 146 as well. Also having a few issues with my A8N32 acting up. 
Had it stored for awhile and since I tried using it again, it's acting all crazy or something - Maybe a good dose of overvoltage will fix it.


----------



## murderbymodem

Yeah I dunno. I'm willing to bet it's the mobo since most of the computer problems I've had in my history of building computers have been mobos randomly dying on me for no good reason. However I did used to run that Opty at 3GHz back in the day, so that could be it too.


----------



## 420Assassin

man 939 still put up a good fight for performance this my daily runner still kicking hard oc'd 24/7 rarely put back to stock for day or 2

If only ram score would raise .. and i know windows is not a benchmark or and type performance test, i use as a general reference / quick rating system that everyone has access to easily


----------



## froogle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redmist;14566010*
> I may have finally found a somewhat decent Socket 939 motherboard for a decent price to see if my Opty 148 still works! I'm seriously hoping it was the Asrock Dual-Sata2939 that died instead of my awesome Opty.
> 
> I'm waiting for a PM back to see if he'll give me a decent enough price


I've had the same mobo mysteriously die on me before. I had the Athlon64 X2 3800+ (stock 2.0GHz) on a mild OC at 2.6GHz, and one day the board just died. No POST.









My only explanation is that comsic rays from outer-space attacked the BIOS chip.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Redmist*


Yeah I dunno. I'm willing to bet it's the mobo since most of the computer problems I've had in my history of building computers have been mobos randomly dying on me for no good reason. However I did used to run that Opty at 3GHz back in the day, so that could be it too.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *froogle*


I've had the same mobo mysteriously die on me before. I had the Athlon64 X2 3800+ (stock 2.0GHz) on a mild OC at 2.6GHz, and one day the board just died. No POST.









My only explanation is that comsic rays from outer-space attacked the BIOS chip.










Great thing about the SataII was that it was the only board with full AGP and PCI-E support. ULI M1695 chipset IIRC. Nvidia bought ALI to bury that chip. Part of the plan to push PCI-E.

I had the same issue with this board and had to reflow the chipset to restore it. Only lasted another 6 months after that. But I got a few important years out of the board and was able to run dual agp/pci-e.


----------



## murderbymodem

Yeah, it allowed me to run my AGP ATI X800XL until I could afford to upgrade. I grabbed an ATI X1950GT around a year later.

I have high hopes now that it's the motherboard and not my beloved Opteron. Sadly though, the guy I PM'd about the motherboard hasn't gotten back to me yet


----------



## NCoastTweaker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


And glad to see somebody's getting some use out of one of them ASRock boards.







How's that board treating you NCoastTweaker?


So far its been running 24/7.. been using it as my HTPC.
Running WMC7 with a Hauppauge tuner... little thing just chugs away... every once in awhile I have to check it to be sure the pump is still running.

Temps are beginning to creep a little bit.. 40-42C idle and seen it hit high 50's under load (56-59)

The water tubes are looking a bit cloudy, and the radiator is probably gunked up with dust. (time to do a little cleany action)

For being such an old cpu and mem, I'm very pleased with its performance. (tempted to buy a couple more of those asrock boards for my 2.4ghz toledos)


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NCoastTweaker*


So far its been running 24/7.. been using it as my HTPC.
Running WMC7 with a Hauppauge tuner... little thing just chugs away... every once in awhile I have to check it to be sure the pump is still running.

Temps are beginning to creep a little bit.. 40-42C idle and seen it hit high 50's under load (56-59)


OHH no's IT'll burn up!!!






























Accidentally hit 140c with my 165 once!





















Couldn't figure out why the system kept shutting down.







Molex fell into the thermaltake volcano fan.

Quote:



I'm very pleased with its performance. (tempted to buy a couple more of those asrock boards for my 2.4ghz toledos)


Buddy of mine just bought one but it was hurting (All he could find) and he had to replace the caps, These things are rarer than virgins in Brazil.























Go with the Lanparty.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton;14539463*
> First off, good to see you back Hue!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We need to keep this club kicking guys - Perhaps in the near future a comp could be held here to get some interest going. Still have the hardware I was running and could be fired up again.
> 
> OK - I know we've all kinda upgraded beyond 939 and that was bound to happen sooner or later. Personally I'm still AMD and recently got a AM3+ Crosshair V board but it's kinda on the fritz ATM. Got an RMA approval today so it's going back - I'll let you guys know how that turns out. I'm sure Asus will take good care of me since their hardware over the years certainly has.
> 
> For those that are members of my home site, I can setup a comp as well there specifically for 939 benching if you'd like, no prob and can promise you'll be in good company - Plus you *will* have some competition to make it interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it's done, would be no sooner than September to get it going but I feel that October would be a better time since the weather is still kinda warm up until then for most of us.
> With good 939 hardware getting harder to find each day, no sense in making it any harder on the stuff than we'd need it to be.
> For those that are members there, let me know if you'd like to do that.
> 
> As for here, C'mon guys we can do something 939 related soon!


I'd be down for doing something. I'm planning on selling my i7 and AM3 getup, so I'll be back on my 939 gear.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redmist;14572923*
> Yeah, it allowed me to run my AGP ATI X800XL until I could afford to upgrade. I grabbed an ATI X1950GT around a year later.
> 
> I have high hopes now that it's the motherboard and not my beloved Opteron. Sadly though, the guy I PM'd about the motherboard hasn't gotten back to me yet


Depending on what you're willing to pay I still have some boards (DFI) laying around.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


...I'm planning on selling my i7 and AM3 getup,...


Going Sandy Bridge? Bulldozer?


----------



## pioneerisloud

This sucks.









I'm short an H50, a cheap GPU (silent or quiet with a blue PCB / black cooler), and a few other small things to finish my build. Ugh.


----------



## donarthur

i just have a 445~ but i feel ok~ XD


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


I've started thread at the home site about a possible 939 comp - Nothing definite yet and not sure if it will happen or not. That will be determined by interest shown and as I said before I don't think we'd need to jump right in, need to do some planning on it first and see what develops.









http://www.classicplatforms.com/foru...p=94151#p94151


Lemme know if you need anything from me to get this going.








I'd be in for a contest here too.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic;14661720*
> Going Sandy Bridge? Bulldozer?


Not sure yet. I haven't been too impressed with intel and gaming to tell you quite honestly. While sure the processors can handle it just fine, there's always some sort of weird anomalies. For instance, all of my Codemasters games (Dirt, Dirt 2, Grid, etc.) have this weird speeding up and slowing down issue --rendering them unplayable. I've tried turning HT off, which helps, but the issue is still there.
Just recently I've been playing through Mass Effect again, both one and two, and every so often, just out of the blue, my characters will start floating above where they're supposed to be with no way of getting back to "ground level". Have to reload.
Little crap like that has been gettin on my nerves.

However, BD results aren't too impressive (from the ones I have seen), although AM3, for most titles, is more than adequate and can play games without any issues. Anyone know if there are any _official_ benchmarks for BD yet?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Not sure yet. I haven't been too impressed with intel and gaming to tell you quite honestly. While sure the processors can handle it just fine, there's always some sort of weird anomalies. For instance, all of my Codemasters games (Dirt, Dirt 2, Grid, etc.) have this weird speeding up and slowing down issue --rendering them unplayable. I've tried turning HT off, which helps, but the issue is still there. 
Just recently I've been playing through Mass Effect again, both one and two, and every so often, just out of the blue, my characters will start floating above where they're supposed to be with no way of getting back to "ground level". Have to reload.
Little crap like that has been gettin on my nerves.

However, BD results aren't too impressive (from the ones I have seen), although AM3, for most titles, is more than adequate and can play games without any issues. Anyone know if there are any _official_ benchmarks for BD yet?


Sounds like your system is unstable. AFA BD info, it seems AMD is holding it pretty close to the vest on this one. Since pretty much (as in all) CPU's these days can play any game i'm interested in adequately I'm just interested in the muti=tasking ,folding power and power consumption for my next system


----------



## Blitz6804

BlackOmega: Have you tried turning off EIST on a lark? It is not as mature as CnQ, and could be causing the issue. Have you tried turning off turbo? How about setting the affinity of the game to two threads?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic;14672202*
> Sounds like your system is unstable. AFA BD info, it seems AMD is holding it pretty close to the vest on this one. Since pretty much (as in all) CPU's these days can play any game i'm interested in adequately I'm just interested in the muti=tasking ,folding power and power consumption for my next system


Regarding stability, my rig is [email protected] stable for weeks on end, not to mention when I was undervolting my CPU, to .92v, it was 36 hours Prime stable, then I folded on it. So I'm thinking that's not it.
Sparky32 has made me aware that the whole speeding up and slowing down thing is a known issue with Intel's and Codemaster games. When he had his LGA775 rig, it would do the same thing. Disabling HT helps considerably, but it doesn't make it go away completely.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;14673647*
> BlackOmega: Have you tried turning off EIST on a lark? It is not as mature as CnQ, and could be causing the issue. Have you tried turning off turbo? How about setting the affinity of the game to two threads?


Since undervolting, pretty much when I put this rig together, SpeedStep (EIST) and Turbo have been disabled. My voltage was so low that I was worried that if SpeedStep was enabled, the voltage would drop so low that I would have issues. So I just took that out of the equation. There has never been a need for me to enable turbo due to the fact that my HDD's are my limiting factor in speed. This CPU/RAM is like a super wood chipper that only getting tiny twigs from the HDD. So it processes the info rather quickly.

As for setting affinity, I have monitored the cpu usage while in game (Dirt2, Grid. Dirt 1 crashes back to desktop when trying to load a race), and the games always seem to use the same 2 cores. So I don't know if specifically setting affinity will make any difference whatsoever.

I never had any of these issues with my AM3 rig. I'll have to ask sparks how the Codemaster games run on his Sandy. Maybe they've rectified the issue.


----------



## Blitz6804

I do not recall Pio having any problems with his 2500k. I would try booting DiRT2, explicitly setting the affinity to two cores, and then try running the game. See if it still sputters.


----------



## BlackOmega

Is there a way to do it within Win7? Never bothered to set it for anything before.


----------



## Blitz6804

Easiest way... run the game, open task manager, go to processes, right-click and set affinity. If that works, I can talk you through how to do something more-permanent.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott;14661889*
> Lemme know if you need anything from me to get this going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd be in for a contest here too.


Good deal.
I'm kinda mulling things over ATM but I've been getting a few ideas as of late.

I'd also like to point out whatever timeframe a comp is held here, I won't be trying to hold a 939 comp at the same time there unless you guys want to pull double duty.
I know sometimes it's easier to go ahead and do your thing while you have it setup since most of us now don't use our 939's everyday - I certainly don't and have my stuff just sitting around.
I will say though whatever comes about, I'll make things different than what is done here for variety.
Even if a comp isn't held here, we can still do _something_.

You guys had the idea first so that's how I'm going to play it.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Reposting this here, because this is where most of my actual OCN friends are at, and I'd like you guys to see these.







Link to the actual thread here, if enough people make stuff for him, I'm going to hotlink them all in the OP so its easier to find.

Here's a few video's I made for you Daniel. You always liked to share your passions with us, and you were always interested to hear about ours. Rest in peace man, I hope you enjoy these video's. I know you've got fast internet up there with youtube.









Please note, I have new rear surrounds now, no longer using the tiny little Jensen bookshelfs on the floor. Just picked up some Jensen dual 6.5" tower speakers off Craigslist for $25. Those are now my Surround B channel.

*Here's Syrillian's original video that I'm responding to:*




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Dk7c6yAhh0&feature=player_embedded[/ame[/URL]]
*
For Syrillian (Part 1):*




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CqKqL-m5H78[/ame[/URL]]

*For Syrillian (Part 2) (Home Theater Excursion Testing):*




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6CUEiGM_Bs4[/ame[/URL]]


----------



## Hueristic

Nice Job Pio.

Funny BO I've never heard of this "Known issue" with Intels before. Funny if it was an AMD issue there would be threads everywhere with Intel fanboys spouting off about it.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;14675801*
> Easiest way... run the game, open task manager, go to processes, right-click and set affinity. If that works, I can talk you through how to do something more-permanent.


I'll give that a go later and see what happens. Been playing through ME ...again... for the third time --using a chick. Seeing how the story changes.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton;14676527*
> Good deal.
> I'm kinda mulling things over ATM but I've been getting a few ideas as of late.
> 
> I'd also like to point out whatever timeframe a comp is held here, I won't be trying to hold a 939 comp at the same time there unless you guys want to pull double duty.
> I know sometimes it's easier to go ahead and do your thing while you have it setup since most of us now don't use our 939's everyday - I certainly don't and have my stuff just sitting around.
> I will say though whatever comes about, I'll make things different than what is done here for variety.
> Even if a comp isn't held here, we can still do _something_.
> 
> You guys had the idea first so that's how I'm going to play it.


Definitely give me a heads up when you want to do this. My complete 939 rig is sitting in a box in the closet.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;14677766*
> Reposting this here, because this is where most of my actual OCN friends are at, and I'd like you guys to see these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Link to the actual thread here, if enough people make stuff for him, I'm going to hotlink them all in the OP so its easier to find.
> 
> Here's a few video's I made for you Daniel. You always liked to share your passions with us, and you were always interested to hear about ours. Rest in peace man, I hope you enjoy these video's. I know you've got fast internet up there with youtube.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please note, I have new rear surrounds now, no longer using the tiny little Jensen bookshelfs on the floor. Just picked up some Jensen dual 6.5" tower speakers off Craigslist for $25. Those are now my Surround B channel.
> 
> *Here's Syrillian's original video that I'm responding to:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> For Syrillian (Part 1):*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *For Syrillian (Part 2) (Home Theater Excursion Testing):*


Nice getup Pio. Funny, that's not at all how I pictured you.









Oh man, that reminds me. I've been meaning to post in his RIP thread. It's sad that he passed. He passed 1 day after my divorce was finalized.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic;14677967*
> Nice Job Pio.
> 
> Funny BO I've never heard of this "Known issue" with Intels before. Funny if it was an AMD issue there would be threads everywhere with Intel fanboys spouting off about it.


That's what Sparky said about the issue. He said that a number of people have had issues with it. I'm not sure where he found the info.

And you're damn right that the fanboys would be all over it. But we all know that AMD's don't have issues playing games.







At least none of mine ever have.


----------



## Kryton

I've posted more info in the comp thread.
Might be starting this one sooner than expected since I may have a personal issue or two that could interfere with it if I wait too long.

Here's the link once again so you don't have to go hunting for it.
http://www.classicplatforms.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=186&t=7050&p=94151#p94151

ADDITIONAL:
I have a starting date now guys.


----------



## SwishaMane

Man those rules are harsh... 230mhz RAM, 2800mhz CPU...

EDIT: I got a new board on the way tho, and a couple un-used CPUs that would like a chance tho...


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*


Man those rules are harsh... 230mhz RAM, 2800mhz CPU...

EDIT: I got a new board on the way tho, and a couple un-used CPUs that would like a chance tho...


I want it to be more of a test of your tweaking skills than an all out MHz war.









Understand this hasn't been finalized yet.


----------



## SwishaMane

Didnt say I didnt like it... I might make an appearance.


----------



## nategr8ns

I might have my dad bring my GSkill HZs out when he comes to visit...


----------



## Kryton

Good deal Swish. 
Nate, you're more than welcome to join in too if you'd like.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane;14822442*
> Didnt say I didnt like it... I might make an appearance.


You'll be there.








Long time no see Swish.


----------



## SwishaMane

I might do something. I gotta actually get my hand son this new board from the Swap Meet. Its a DFI Infinity Ultra, comes with a single core 4000+. Busted NB fan, but easy fix. Un-tested in 4 years I guess, but worked when pulled. So, we'll have to see whats up there.

The only other 939 board I have is my ASUS A8N-E, vmodded for up to 1.8vCore, but I think its seen better days. FSB doesn't like more then 210 anymore. I remember being 238 stable at one time, LOL

What would be best setup for the contest? Single core? Dual core? I'm not TOO familiar with contest bench's, so IDK what would be best. Just a generic single core, or a badass dual core? I got a 3200+, 3700+, FX-55, the 4000+ I hope, an opty 180 with a busted second core, so if the BIOS can be flashed to one that only recognizes single core chips, it'll work. Yes, seriously. I can boot my 180 as a single core if the bios on a 939 board is old enough to only recognize single core CPU's... w00t!!!

Man, I can yap...


----------



## 2thAche

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton;14815561*
> I've posted more info in the comp thread.
> Might be starting this one sooner than expected since I may have a personal issue or two that could interfere with it if I wait too long.
> 
> Here's the link once again so you don't have to go hunting for it.
> http://www.classicplatforms.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=186&t=7050&p=94151#p94151
> 
> ADDITIONAL:
> I have a starting date now guys.


Strange rules. I still have alot of _old_ screenshots lol.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *2thAche*


Strange rules. I still have alot of _old_ screenshots lol.











Yes it's strange yet still benchable. I wanted this to be a test of one's tweaking skills with certain handicaps in place to make it not as easy to do as it would normally be. 
I recently competed in a comp similar to this and although I didn't do well at first, I learned alot from having to tweak my way up the rankings and came out rather well in the end AND learned a few things about tweaking my system for better results.

That's the idea here, it's more of a tweak your way to the top spot then simply cranking up the MHz to get there - I will admit however that even with the caps, WPrime is still more or less all about raw MHz, some of the top runs you'll see have rather low RAM speeds in MHz so the 230MHz RAM speed cap shouldn't be much of a hinderance at all.

Of course if you guys really want a bench you can let 'er rip with, I can do that too.









@ Swish - I'd go with a really good single core for this one or if you can find one, a good Dual core but know I've limited the threads ran in the WPrime run so either chip type can compete vs each other. Some folks only have single core chips onhand and others have dual core chips, this is why I had to set that in place. 
Obviously a Dual core will rip a single core a new one in WPrime, hence the thread cap.


----------



## SwishaMane

Cool. This should be interesting then... Ive never been good with RAM tweaking.


----------



## 2thAche

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Yes it's strange yet still benchable. I wanted this to be a test of one's tweaking skills with certain handicaps in place to make it not as easy to do as it would normally be. 
I recently competed in a comp similar to this and although I didn't do well at first, I learned alot from having to tweak my way up the rankings and came out rather well in the end AND learned a few things about tweaking my system for better results.

That's the idea here, it's more of a tweak your way to the top spot then simply cranking up the MHz to get there - I will admit however that even with the caps, WPrime is still more or less all about raw MHz, some of the top runs you'll see have rather low RAM speeds in MHz so the 230MHz RAM speed cap shouldn't be much of a hinderance at all.

Of course if you guys really want a bench you can let 'er rip with, I can do that too.









@ Swish - I'd go with a really good single core for this one or if you can find one, a good Dual core but know I've limited the threads ran in the WPrime run so either chip type can compete vs each other. Some folks only have single core chips onhand and others have dual core chips, this is why I had to set that in place. 
Obviously a Dual core will rip a single core a new one in WPrime, hence the thread cap.


I still have the CPU and RAM from that machine, but the board died. It was the MSI Neo 2 Platinum. Just died this year, it was still kicking at a relative's house with a 6800GT.


----------



## Kryton

Had to slim it down to a single bench but that's OK, either way it's still a comp.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton;14849572*
> Had to slim it down to a single bench but that's OK, either way it's still a comp.


Not necessarily.....check your inbox at home.


----------



## SwishaMane

Man, a 3DMark bench would be sweet. BUT, there ARE ppl who would put a 6990 in their 939 just to get an edge... Personally, on 939, my 8800GTX has outperformed all in 3DMark06, when compared to my gtx 260 c216 I had, the gtx 285, and my 5870 when I had it. 939 and 8800 seems to be a great combo!


----------



## Warrior1986

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*


Man, a 3DMark bench would be sweet. BUT, there ARE ppl who would put a 6990 in their 939 just to get an edge... Personally, on 939, my 8800GTX has outperformed all in 3DMark06, when compared to my gtx 260 c216 I had, the gtx 285, and my 5870 when I had it. 939 and 8800 seems to be a great combo!


Wait, are you saying you got a higher score in 3dmark06 with the 8800gtx over the gtx 260 core 216?


----------



## SwishaMane

Yes, Im saying my 8800 got a better score then my gtx 285 and 5870 too on my 939 setup... I broke 12.5k on s939 with my 8800gtx...

EDIT: I think... LOL I can't remember perfectly, but I think the 5870 finally got a step up. Gotta be a limit with the chip / board, mebbe pci-e 1.x vs. 2.0...

IDK anymore... But I DID break 12.5k on 939. It was my ES. Could run 3dmark06 at 3.16ghz stable.


----------



## Kryton

Swish, 3D Mark has been reinstated after working out a few issues along with 1M Super PI being added. 
Thanks to Mr. Scott for helping with that.

I also noted there _might_ be a problem with deciding who gets what in the event of a tie at the end so I made it to run in two stages.

Qualifier for the top 5 spots and the finals.

No further changes will be made - This is it.


----------



## Kryton

The prize pool is now listed and we also have a (Currently) unnamed person that's offered to throw in something too = 5 prizes to be won.


----------



## SwishaMane

Sweet! Just got my DFI Infinity Ultra and 4000+... Getting ready to claim a prize. Mebbe if I win something I'll actually get it this time. I know the prize i picked from the last contest I needed, and would be awesome for this contest, but nope...


----------



## N2Gaming

Hi all,

Hey Kryton it looks like you have things all set up for a 939 competition. Good Job Man. I'd like to partake in the competition. However I don't think I 'll be ready in time to participate. I just recently moved into a new home and I still have all kinds of my things packed away in disarray in addition to all the other projects I have going on. I'm hoping to get several of the outdoor projects finished before the winter rains start. If I am able to get it together "My garage and workbench" before it's too late then you can count me in. If not then I'll have to watch as a fan of the contestants.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N2Gaming;14896481*
> Hi all,
> 
> Hey Kryton it looks like you have things all set up for a 939 competition. Good Job Man. I'd like to partake in the competition. However I don't think I 'll be ready in time to participate. I just recently moved into a new home and I still have all kinds of my things packed away in disarray in addition to all the other projects I have going on. I'm hoping to get several of the outdoor projects finished before the winter rains start. If I am able to get it together "My garage and workbench" before it's too late then you can count me in. If not then I'll have to watch as a fan of the contestants.


Hope to see you there.









Doc, you have a PM at home. I have prize donations if we get more participants.


----------



## SwishaMane

Well this DFI Ultra was soooooo awesome, it was able to fry my 1200 watt SilverStone decathlon PSU... Stand alone jumping the green and GND, the PSU just bursts for 0.5sec., and shuts down... So until a PSU just happens to fly into my hands for free, Im out.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N2Gaming;14896481*
> Hi all,
> 
> Hey Kryton it looks like you have things all set up for a 939 competition. Good Job Man. I'd like to partake in the competition. However I don't think I 'll be ready in time to participate. I just recently moved into a new home and I still have all kinds of my things packed away in disarray in addition to all the other projects I have going on. I'm hoping to get several of the outdoor projects finished before the winter rains start. If I am able to get it together "My garage and workbench" before it's too late then you can count me in. If not then I'll have to watch as a fan of the contestants.


I'd love to see you make it in.
Be sure to register BEFORE the starting date of the comp since it is a requirement to be a member of the forum before this date. This way you could join in the fun at any time, even if you may be a little late getting some runs posted.
If you are already a member, you're covered.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*


Hope to see you there.









Doc, you have a PM at home. I have prize donations if we get more participants.










Thanks Mr Scott

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


I'd love to see you make it in. 
Be sure to register BEFORE the starting date of the comp since it is a requirement to be a member of the forum before this date. This way you could join in the fun at any time, even if you may be a little late getting some runs posted.
If you are already a member, you're covered.


Going to check it it out now to see if I ever registered there. If Not I'll prob use the same handle


----------



## DCRussian

Hey, just popping in here, I have a 3500+ lying around with an Asus A8N-SLI Deluxe. It was OC'd to 2.5 at one time, but was back at 2.2 after I managed to fry the first A8N. Eventually, my PSU on that PC crapped out, so I got a new one for it and something else eventually broke again. I managed to resurrect this PC about 2 years ago and it ran Win 7 like a champ (surprisingly using very little ram at that).
Eventually, it died again after 3-4 months of use and I've not had the interest to bring it back to life, unfortunately.

I've had good times with the 939 and still remember all the fun times I've had on that system with the X850XT and 1950XTX that lived with it throughout the years (man was that really that long ago??). So, unfortunately, no pics or screenies of this running (something being dead and all; I'm thinking it's the mobo again, I know the 1950 still works).
But it's still here, sitting 5ft away from me, I see no reason to get rid of it yet (unless someone really wants it with no guarantee of it working haha).


----------



## Cyrious

im still trying to figure out what i am to do with my S939 system. Possibly a minecraft server, cause i have 4GB of ram on it and an Athlon 64 X2. Wish i could overclock it, but thats what happens when all i got is a OEM board


----------



## Hueristic

Lost by $.50!!!







My other lanparty needs a cheap X2!

http://offer.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewBids&_trksid=p4340.l2565&item=250889234949


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic;14934457*
> Lost by $.50!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My other lanparty needs a cheap X2!
> 
> http://offer.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewBids&_trksid=p4340.l2565&item=250889234949


PWND!

Waiting on my new PSU for my board.

Mr. Scott, can you help me find the newest BIOS for my DFI nF4 Ultra Infinity? Or anyone for that matter. Im having a hard time for some reason.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane;14934895*
> PWND!
> 
> Waiting on my new PSU for my board.
> 
> Mr. Scott, can you help me find the newest BIOS for my DFI nF4 Ultra Infinity? Or anyone for that matter. Im having a hard time for some reason.


Ask him at the home site to be sure he sees this and he'll fix you up. If it's a BIOS you need he probrably has it stashed somewhere.


----------



## Mr.Scott

You now have your bios.


----------



## SwishaMane

Wheres the home site, CP/VO? And where is my BIOS son? lol









Got my PSU, btw. So if the competition is on, Swish is getting ready.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*


Got my PSU, btw. So if the competition is on, Swish is getting ready.


It's on. 
If you haven't registered by now you're probrably too late to qualify but doesn't mean you can't drop in and see who does what.

Comp thread setup and ready 2 go!


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


I'd love to see you make it in. 
Be sure to register BEFORE the starting date of the comp since it is a requirement to be a member of the forum before this date. This way you could join in the fun at any time, even if you may be a little late getting some runs posted.
If you are already a member, you're covered.


Trying to get registered and keep getting confused from the registration page. It told me several times that I got the Confirmation Code incorrect then after the last try it says My email address has to be correct so that I can get a email verification.

So far no emails. Oh yeah after the last try when it said I would get an email it still has the Confirmation Code box at the bottom of the screen and the code is always very difficult for me to decipher.

I'm trying to get registered on time just in case I have the ability to compete


----------



## SwishaMane

I didnt know anything about registering...


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Trying to get registered and keep getting confused from the registration page. It told me several times that I got the Confirmation Code incorrect then after the last try it says My email address has to be correct so that I can get a email verification.

So far no emails. Oh yeah after the last try when it said I would get an email it still has the Confirmation Code box at the bottom of the screen and the code is always very difficult for me to decipher.

I'm trying to get registered on time just in case I have the ability to compete










Get with Mr. Scott on that. 
I'll make an exception for you since I know you have been trying to get registered before the deadline but having problems doing so. Once you're taken care of, have at it whenever you can.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


Get with Mr. Scott on that. 
I'll make an exception for you since I know you have been trying to get registered before the deadline but having problems doing so. Once you're taken care of, have at it whenever you can.


That's good news, Thank you Kryton. Now to get my new Dungion to a more managable Condition. It's been a slow process but I'll share pics w/all you knuckle heads once I have my Dungion half way decent


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N2Gaming;14942737*
> That's good news, Thank you Kryton. Now to get my new Dungion to a more managable Condition. It's been a slow process but I'll share pics w/all you knuckle heads once I have my Dungion half way decent


Just be sure to get with Mr. Scott ASAP so he can do his thing.









Swish, you've already done that so you're covered.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane;14941286*
> Wheres the home site, CP/VO? And where is my BIOS son? lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got my PSU, btw. So if the competition is on, Swish is getting ready.


Check your thread at CP.









@ N2 - check your PM's.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott;14949348*
> 
> @ N2 - check your PM's.


Thank you, I think it worked this time.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Yup. I already activated you.


----------



## SwishaMane

Cool, foudn the BIOS DL, BUT, now my board won't initialize and post...







No beep codes, CMOS clear jumpers in both positions, nothing. Took batt. out for like an hour while I tore rig completely apart, re-sat a new CPU, new RAM, cleaned up wiring, fresh TIM. No post. Everything turns on, and it starts to initialze some stuff, but no beeps, no video, keyboard only flashes the sec. you turn in on. NIC starts up caus eof the LEDS, but nothing...

UGH!!! Im borderline about to find me a cheap A8N-E again... vmod that sucka, and GO!


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*


Cool, foudn the BIOS DL, BUT, now my board won't initialize and post...







No beep codes, CMOS clear jumpers in both positions, nothing. Took batt. out for like an hour while I tore rig completely apart, re-sat a new CPU, new RAM, cleaned up wiring, fresh TIM. No post. Everything turns on, and it starts to initialze some stuff, but no beeps, no video, keyboard only flashes the sec. you turn in on. NIC starts up caus eof the LEDS, but nothing...

UGH!!! Im borderline about to find me a cheap A8N-E again... vmod that sucka, and GO!


Didn't one of the guys have a spare board somewhere? I seem to recall seeing that sometime ago but it may have been sold by now. Never hurts to ask or check around you know.


----------



## SwishaMane

I got a spare, but its weak... a8n-e

EDIT: I ran and won the dual core OC challenge of the last 939 Contest we had here at OCN. 1.8vCore to my 939 ES, 3.168 3dmark, 3.25 maxmem or some ish... 3.404 suicide, on normal water...

ah, like 9 months go.... good times

Id be lucky to get 210dram freq. on it now, LOL


----------



## Kryton

Hey, let it go out in a blaze of glory.....


----------



## SwishaMane

Just picked up the s939 combo int he FS section. A8N sli deluxe, 3800+ x2, 4x 512MB Ballistix DDR400, and Corsair air cooler, $60. Cant beat it, plus I have a couple spare BIOS chips for that board. Should be good to go, and win... HA HA HA


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane;14956895*
> Just picked up the s939 combo int he FS section. A8N sli deluxe, 3800+ x2, 4x 512MB Ballistix DDR400, and Corsair air cooler, $60. Cant beat it, plus I have a couple spare BIOS chips for that board. Should be good to go, and win... HA HA HA


NICE! IMO the only way you could beat that deal is if the board was a A8N32 or a DFI Expert board


----------



## SwishaMane

DFI lanparty boards dont boot my ES... the ASUS A8N series does, so this was major win. Plus bonuses...


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*


DFI lanparty boards dont boot my ES... the ASUS A8N series does, so this was major win. Plus bonuses...










Sounds like a killer deal!
I'll probrably drag out the A8N32 before it's over with and see if it will post and what it's capable of for fun.

Yes I have an A8N32 and an Expert board as both of you know already.


----------



## Neroh

My first actual proper "gaming" computer had an AMD Athlon 64 3800+ @ 2.4GHz. Its sitting 4 feet away from me







Still works great, though the temperature gets as high as 72c in games, even though supposedly the maximum it should go according to google is 65c.

Can't believe how tiny those low profile cases are. I swear I could fit the entire tower in my pocket haha.


----------



## eignub

here is mine. i havent oced it yet, not sure of the best way since it was a big box computer, and i only changed ram and video card. http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2003230


----------



## eternalenergy311

Hey guys,

I know I have not posted for some time but I have to ask again. Does anyone know where I can find a couple more 1gb ddr500 redline mushkin sticks for my rig. This 2 gb is just not enough anymore. I have searched online every few weeks for over a year now, and no luck. Please help, anyone, if you can.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


Hey guys,

I know I have not posted for some time but I have to ask again. Does anyone know where I can find a couple more 1gb ddr500 redline mushkin sticks for my rig. This 2 gb is just not enough anymore. I have searched online every few weeks for over a year now, and no luck. Please help, anyone, if you can.


I doubt you can run 4 slots at that speed anyway. Just get some slower ram and pull them when kicking it.









I've got some crucial 500 that they won't repair cause I don't have the receipt!

HATE CRUCIAL!!!!


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


I've got some crucial 500 that they won't repair cause I don't have the receipt!

HATE CRUCIAL!!!!


Glad that's not a brand I tend to run even if it's a good performer. 
I've never heard of a receipt needed to do an RMA for defective sticks when dealing directly with the manufacturer and I didn't need it to do that with a set of OCZ's I had to get replaced once before - I told them what was going on, what my tests results were that determined them as defective and they did the replacement.

Doesn't Crucial have a lifetime warranty on their sticks anyway?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton;15014314*
> Doesn't Crucial have a lifetime warranty on their sticks anyway?


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> HATE CRUCIAL!!!!


I do...... thank you.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


I've got some crucial 500 that they won't repair cause I don't have the receipt!

HATE CRUCIAL!!!!


 That really blows. I hope I don't ever need to replace mine. Last time I talked to Crucial they told me that the DDR500 kit I have was actually designed to be ran in Apple / Mac PC's


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


That really blows. I hope I don't ever need to replace mine. Last time I talked to Crucial they told me that the DDR500 kit I have was actually designed to be ran in Apple / Mac PC's


Just bought a PC Power & Cooling Silencer 750W for $43







!
http://www.overclock.net/power-suppl...tion-help.html


----------



## N2Gaming

At Hue...


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N2Gaming;15029728*
> At Hue...


Now I gotta get off my But and finish the XJS and the CBR1000f so I can get back to the fun stuff!!!!


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eignub*


here is mine. i havent oced it yet, not sure of the best way since it was a big box computer, and i only changed ram and video card. http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2003230


I coudn't help it.... 
Your avvy reminds me of these guys.








Attachment 230097


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eignub*


here is mine. i havent oced it yet, not sure of the best way since it was a big box computer, and i only changed ram and video card. http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2003230


OK now make it squeal like a stuck pig!


----------



## eignub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


I coudn't help it.... 
Your avvy reminds me of these guys.








Attachment 230097


lol. thanks?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


OK now make it squeal like a stuck pig!










any advice on how to do that? mine is in a prebuilt system, so i dont think i can really do much unfortunately.


----------



## macsbeach98

Gee i came in here about 4 weeks ago and seen mutterings about a socket939 comp. I came in here tonight and see the comp has started and I've missed it. Ah well better luck next time, I have got 2 socket939s an Opty175 CCBWE in a Asus A8N SLI deluxe with 2 9800GTX+ in SLI and I've got a San Diego 3700+ KAB3E in a Abit KN8 with a HD4670.
Also I thought I would join that Classic Platforms forum what the hell is that thing about Issues in the registration. I dont have any issues LOL


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macsbeach98;15036064*
> Gee i came in here about 4 weeks ago and seen mutterings about a socket939 comp. I came in here tonight and see the comp has started and I've missed it. Ah well better luck next time, I have got 2 socket939s an Opty175 CCBWE in a Asus A8N SLI deluxe with 2 9800GTX+ in SLI and I've got a San Diego 3700+ KAB3E in a Abit KN8 with a HD4670.
> Also I thought I would join that Classic Platforms forum what the hell is that thing about Issues in the registration. I dont have any issues LOL


I'm not sure myself but it's possible.
Either way those issues can be solved.









I'm sorry you missed the comp start but believe me when I say it won't be the last one we hold. As to the 939 club here, I believe something will happen before long so please pop in regularly and you won't be left out. The guys here know how to throw a good comp too so keep an eye out for it when that happens - I'll probrably be in the mix with the others.

BTW I'm wondering how close to Scruffy1 you live, he's an Aussie too and a member at CP.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eignub;15034652*
> any advice on how to do that? mine is in a prebuilt system, so i dont think i can really do much unfortunately.


If you can tell us what mobo and bios you have that would make it much easier to explain any and all of your OC possibilities in greater detail.









Edit: Just looked in your sig and it looks like you have an Asus A8N-LA what ever that is. Do you have any images of your specific mobo that we could possibly compare to other A8N mobo's to see if the board may possibly be flashed to another bios? One that is not so limited if in fact your bios is like most proprietary BIOS's are.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macsbeach98;15036064*
> .
> Also I thought I would join that Classic Platforms forum what the hell is that thing about Issues in the registration. I dont have any issues LOL


Good for you.


----------



## macsbeach98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton;15038721*
> 
> BTW I'm wondering how close to Scruffy1 you live, he's an Aussie too and a member at CP.


I am on the central coast NSW ask where he is?


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macsbeach98;15047857*
> I am on the central coast NSW ask where he is?


If memory serves, I believe it's Perth.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton;15048584*
> If memory serves, I believe it's Perth.


You would be correct.


----------



## macsbeach98

Ah hes on the other side of the country. He's not a member on here I take it?


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macsbeach98;15053490*
> Ah hes on the other side of the country. He's not a member on here I take it?


No idea. He gets around much like I do.


----------



## Moparman

So does anyone still play with 939 stuff? I have a bunch of stuff an have no idea what's good or not.
off my head I have the following.
cpus
3200+
3500+
3700+ will do 3.0+ so far.
3800x2
mobo
DFI LanParty UT RDX200 CF-DR
an some foxcon that overclocks ok.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moparman;15073775*
> So does anyone still play with 939 stuff? I have a bunch of stuff an have no idea what's good or not.
> off my head I have the following.
> cpus
> 3200+
> 3500+
> 3700+ will do 3.0+ so far.
> 3800x2
> mobo
> DFI LanParty UT RDX200 CF-DR
> an some foxcon that overclocks ok.


Of course we do.








Classicplatforms.com
Check us out sometime.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moparman;15073775*
> So does anyone still play with 939 stuff? I have a bunch of stuff an have no idea what's good or not.
> off my head I have the following.
> cpus
> 3200+
> 3500+
> 3700+ will do 3.0+ so far.
> 3800x2
> mobo
> DFI LanParty UT RDX200 CF-DR
> an some foxcon that overclocks ok.


We're playing with some 939 stuff right now.

Official comp thread:
http://www.classicplatforms.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=186&t=7089

Comp discussion thread:
http://www.classicplatforms.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=186&t=7050

It's too late for new members to get in on the comp but you know there will be other events plus the guys here will probrably do something before too long. Keep that 939 hardware handy, you'll get your chance/excuse to torture it once more.


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic;15013924*
> I doubt you can run 4 slots at that speed anyway. Just get some slower ram and pull them when kicking it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got some crucial 500 that they won't repair cause I don't have the receipt!
> 
> HATE CRUCIAL!!!!


Finally I get to find out!! after over a year or maybe 2 of searching, I have just found and purchased another 2 gig set. thanks to anyone who was keeping an ear out for me.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*


Finally I get to find out!! after over a year or maybe 2 of searching, I have just found and purchased another 2 gig set. thanks to anyone who was keeping an ear out for me.


----------



## Kryton

Just a reminder.
If any of you that qualify for the comp I'm holding want to put in a run, the cutoff for the Preliminary round is on 10-10-11 at midnight. The Final round will start at midnight 10-11-11 and that will end as of 10-15-11 at midnight.

If you want a shot at winning some of the stuff I've put up for prizes you have to submit a run with all three benchies to get your overall average score.


----------



## N2Gaming

Thank you for the heads up Kryton, I don't think I'll be able to get my gear out and set up w/OS installed to run bench test's in time. Maybe next time


----------



## Tronic707x

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2035246

2.5Ghz isn't so stable does anyone know a good S939 cpu fan for overclocking?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tronic707x*


http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2035246

2.5Ghz isn't so stable does anyone know a good S939 for overclocking?


It's probably your RAM. 3x 1GB sticks plus 1x 256MB stick? Go down to 2x 1GB sticks, and I'll bet you'll be stable. Its very VERY hard on the 939 IMC to run 3 and 4 sticks, let alone mixed sizes and speeds.

Or you could try knocking your RAM speed down to around DDR333. I'd take the RAM size hit personally, and just knock it down to 2GB of RAM.

Just use your 2x Patriot 1GB sticks.


----------



## Tronic707x

..


----------



## Tronic707x

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


It's probably your RAM. 3x 1GB sticks plus 1x 256MB stick? Go down to 2x 1GB sticks, and I'll bet you'll be stable. Its very VERY hard on the 939 IMC to run 3 and 4 sticks, let alone mixed sizes and speeds.

Or you could try knocking your RAM speed down to around DDR333. I'd take the RAM size hit personally, and just knock it down to 2GB of RAM.

Just use your 2x Patriot 1GB sticks.


Thanks alot but im running windows 7 will 2 gigs ruin my peformance? btw do you know any good agp video cards for a 3200+ processor. right now im using a radeon 9550/x1050 series


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


We're playing with some 939 stuff right now.

Official comp thread: 
http://www.classicplatforms.com/foru...p?f=186&t=7089

Comp discussion thread: 
http://www.classicplatforms.com/foru...p?f=186&t=7050

It's too late for new members to get in on the comp but you know there will be other events plus the guys here will probrably do something before too long. Keep that 939 hardware handy, you'll get your chance/excuse to torture it once more.


DANG! Wished I had seen that earlier. I'm about to pull out all of my 939 gear.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tronic707x*


http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2035246

2.5Ghz isn't so stable does anyone know a good S939 cpu fan for overclocking?


Most newer CPU fans are still compatible with S939 if if they don't officially support it. Try a CM Hyper 212, I've read and heard good things about them, and they're cheap.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tronic707x*


Thanks alot but im running windows 7 will 2 gigs ruin my peformance? btw do you know any good agp video cards for a 3200+ processor. right now im using a radeon 9550/x1050 series


AGP, nada. However, if you're interested, I do have 3 S939 DFI lanparty boards. 2 are SLI and one is CF. (All three have 2x PCIe slots).
I'm about to sell all of it off, including my RAM (Corsair XMS platinums, infineon BH-5 IC's, AWESOME for overclocking).

PM me if you're interested.


----------



## Tronic707x

Im not really interested in a new motherboard im just trying to upgrade my a8v deluxe while on a 350$ budget to overclock a little. but how much are you selling it for anyways


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


DANG! Wished I had seen that earlier. I'm about to pull out all of my 939 gear.


There's still time for registered members that qualify, the Preliminary round ends on the 10th at midnight. 
If you qualify according to the rules get it setup and see what you can do.









BTW wasn't there supposed to be a 754 comp going down soon here? 
I hope so since I'm in if it's on.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tronic707x*


Im not really interested in a new motherboard im just trying to upgrade my a8v deluxe while on a 350$ budget to overclock a little. but how much are you selling it for anyways


PM sent.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kryton*


There's still time for registered members that qualify, the Preliminary round ends on the 10th at midnight. 
If you qualify according to the rules get it setup and see what you can do.









BTW wasn't there supposed to be a 754 comp going down soon here? 
I hope so since I'm in if it's on.










 Not sure on the 754 comp.

As for your competition, my 3800x2 is the greatest OCer. IIRC, it's a manchester and it would only go to 2600MHz. Maybe if I could get it colder, it would do better. But all I have is air.

Besides, don't you have to be registered by the start date of the comp to be eligible?


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackOmega;15226036*
> 
> Besides, don't you have to be registered by the start date of the comp to be eligible?


Yes and if you weren't when it started, you cannot compete but don't think it's the last one we'll be holding.
Sooner or later we'll get something else started but cannot say when that would be. I do know we tend to hold a comp of some kind every month with different hardware types used in each for variety.


----------



## nategr8ns

Looks like I can't do the contest







. Too much homework this past weekend, plus the fact that I would have had to borrow a monitor/keyboard from someone down the hall.

GL to all competitors though!


----------



## SwishaMane

Wish I could've gotten something going too. BUT, both 939 boards I bought were DOA, basically...


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane;15255242*
> Wish I could've gotten something going too. BUT, both 939 boards I bought were DOA, basically...












Bummer. That happened with my first ebay mobo purchase.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nategr8ns;15267405*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bummer. That happened with my first ebay mobo purchase.


I'd be weary of fleabay nowadays. Been seeing as of late alot of stuff turning up DOA from there.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by nategr8ns
> 
> Bummer. That happened with my first ebay mobo purchase.


Thats what's funny. Both mobo combos I got were from members here at OCN. eBay has never done me wrong when it comes to mobos, except once I believe. Long ago.


----------



## eternalenergy311

Well as suspected, there's no way to get the memory to run 1T at 4 gigs installed, but I am stable at only 1.36v and still a decent OC in my opinion. Was it really worth the 100 USD for the extra 2 gigs, prob not. But I did look for a long time to find the sticks, and what are hobbies for, right? Has anyone else been more succesful with this much RAM on a dual core S939, any tips would be awesome.


----------



## SwishaMane

I ran 4GB of Corsair Platinums back in the day. Then I wondered why I could only use 3gb, til i figured it out, and went back to 2 GB. LOL 1T should be possible, 2 T is gonna make that SLOW.


----------



## Kryton

The comp I was holding has ended and thanks for the interest even if no one from the club here participated. 
Now I'm waiting to see what happens here in the near future concerning Socket 939 - If anything of 939 interest pops up there I'll let you guys know.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton;15355767*
> The comp I was holding has ended and thanks for the interest even if no one from the club here participated.
> Now I'm waiting to see what happens here in the near future concerning Socket 939 - If anything of 939 interest pops up there I'll let you guys know.


Can you link to it again? I want to see some results







.


----------



## SwishaMane

I wanted to participate, but my boards were DOA... I have enough RAM and CPUs tho.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*


I wanted to participate, but my boards were DOA... I have enough RAM and CPUs tho.










Well hey then you might just be in luck! Check my my for sale thread (link in sig), I just listed one of my 939 boards (CFX3200DR) $50shipped/OBO. However, if you're not interested in that board, I do have 2 SLI modded Ultra-D's.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*


Can you link to it again? I want to see some results







.


Here ya go. 
http://www.classicplatforms.com/foru...p?f=186&t=7089


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


Well hey then you might just be in luck! Check my my for sale thread (link in sig), I just listed one of my 939 boards (CFX3200DR) $50shipped/OBO. However, if you're not interested in that board, I do have 2 SLI modded Ultra-D's.


Nah, thanks anyway. I was interested for Krytons comp. Ive had so many DFI 939 boards, ugh... If my ES booted on one, i would, but it dont...


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311;15351904*
> Well as suspected, there's no way to get the memory to run 1T at 4 gigs installed, but I am stable at only 1.36v and still a decent OC in my opinion. Was it really worth the 100 USD for the extra 2 gigs, prob not. But I did look for a long time to find the sticks, and what are hobbies for, right? Has anyone else been more succesful with this much RAM on a dual core S939, any tips would be awesome.


Lower your divider and try to get the 1t it will improve responsiveness.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackOmega;15363360*
> Well hey then you might just be in luck! Check my my for sale thread (link in sig), I just listed one of my 939 boards (CFX3200DR) $50shipped/OBO. However, if you're not interested in that board, I do have 2 SLI modded Ultra-D's.
























PM me your address and I'll see If I can stop by on my trip.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nategr8ns;15357504*
> Can you link to it again? I want to see some results
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .

























Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton;15355767*
> The comp I was holding has ended and thanks for the interest even if no one from the club here participated.
> Now I'm waiting to see what happens here in the near future concerning Socket 939 - If anything of 939 interest pops up there I'll let you guys know.












RI-->Vegas-->Huntington beach-->Stockton (Currently)--->Reno (next).


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Lower your divider and try to get the 1t it will improve responsiveness.






















PM me your address and I'll see If I can stop by on my trip.

































RI-->Vegas-->Huntington beach-->Stockton (Currently)--->Reno (next).


What the? Where you been? Sorry haven't kept up on the thread. Been busy with the kiddies and stuff. FWIW, I'm in S.E. Michigan. Think Detroit area.









EDIT: Hey do any of you guys have an Amazon account? I put the board on there but there is no images. I tried adding one but it said I couldn't because I haven't bought anything from there (which is BS, I just bought a Spinpoint F3). Anyways, could one of you guys add images to it? PLEEEZZ!


----------



## Kryton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


What the? Where you been? Sorry haven't kept up on the thread. Been busy with the kiddies and stuff. FWIW, I'm in S.E. Michigan. Think Detroit area.









EDIT: Hey do any of you guys have an Amazon account? I put the board on there but there is no images. I tried adding one but it said I couldn't because I haven't bought anything from there (which is BS, I just bought a Spinpoint F3). Anyways, could one of you guys add images to it? PLEEEZZ!


Let me do some checking - May know someone interested in the board.
BTW Moparman was looking for one earlier but I don't know if he still is or not.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton;15374984*
> Let me do some checking - May know someone interested in the board.
> BTW Moparman was looking for one earlier but I don't know if he still is or not.


Definitely let me know. I also have 2 SLI modded Ultra-D's. Last I checked with my Opteron they'll easily 320 ref clock. However, since both hit the exact same ref clock I'm going to assume that it was the CPU and not the board that set that limit.
FWIW, on one of the boards, before the mod, I hit 405 ref clock --403 stable.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackOmega;15377746*
> Definitely let me know. I also have 2 SLI modded Ultra-D's. Last I checked with my Opteron they'll easily 320 ref clock. However, since both hit the exact same ref clock I'm going to assume that it was the CPU and not the board that set that limit.
> FWIW, on one of the boards, before the mod, I hit 405 ref clock --403 stable.


That's starting to sound like my NF4X.
It will literally top out the BIOS at 450MHz and keep going up with clockgen to at least 475MHz anytime I want.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


RI-->Vegas-->Huntington beach-->Stockton (Currently)--->Reno (next).


Hueristic and N2Gaming in the same locality? RUN TO THE HILLS! *RUN FOR YOUR LIVES!*


----------



## dlee7283

looks like the super rare 785g chipset 939 board is selling in the US now

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ASRock-939A7...#ht_3193wt_952


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dlee7283*


looks like the super rare 785g chipset 939 board is selling in the US now

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ASRock-939A7...#ht_3193wt_952


Figures NOW they start selling it, now that all my 939 gear is gone....

Who's got my old Opty and RAM?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlee7283;15385698*
> looks like the super rare 785g chipset 939 board is selling in the US now
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/ASRock-939A785GMH-128M-939-motherboard-ddr-hd4200-GbE-7-1-micro-atx-AMD-785G-/310346721133?pt=Motherboards&hash=item48421b276d#ht_3193wt_952


OOOOOooooOOOoOoOOoo! Well I was about to buy a Biostar AM3 board for an HTPC I'm building, but now I think I might get this instead and put that 3800x2 and 4GB of XMS's to good use.







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;15385929*
> Figures NOW they start selling it, now that all my 939 gear is gone....
> 
> Who's got my old Opty and RAM?


Figures. How well do you think a 3500+ would serve for HTPC duty?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackOmega;15386647*
> OOOOOooooOOOoOoOOoo! Well I was about to buy a Biostar AM3 board for an HTPC I'm building, but now I think I might get this instead and put that 3800x2 and 4GB of XMS's to good use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Figures. How well do you think a 3500+ would serve for HTPC duty?


A single core would do fine as long as your GPU can handle the processing, and that onboard 4200 would do fine. You could build a Sempron AM3 build with onboard and it would do fine for HTPC use.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;15388031*
> A single core would do fine as long as your GPU can handle the processing, and that onboard 4200 would do fine. You could build a Sempron AM3 build with onboard and it would do fine for HTPC use.


I was planning on using the onboard video/audio. I'm trying to put as little into it as possible.

My other course of action was to use my old lapped x3 720, 2GB Patriot Vipers, and get this Biostar 880G+. I know the 720 will run super cool, hell, after lapping it, it idled at ambient temp. even OC'd it never went above 37C.

You think a 3500+ and using onboard video would be sufficient for an HTPC, or would it bottleneck and stutter.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackOmega;15388220*
> I was planning on using the onboard video/audio. I'm trying to put as little into it as possible.
> 
> My other course of action was to use my old lapped x3 720, 2GB Patriot Vipers, and get this Biostar 880G+. I know the 720 will run super cool, hell, after lapping it, it idled at ambient temp. even OC'd it never went above 37C.
> 
> You think a 3500+ and using onboard video would be sufficient for an HTPC, or would it bottleneck and stutter.


Either would do fine with onboard HD4200, so it won't really matter honestly. The X3 would do better though for other tasks honestly.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;15388300*
> Either would do fine with onboard HD4200, so it won't really matter honestly. The X3 would do better though for other tasks honestly.


These two/three builds have their own advantages.
The 720 would have plenty of power to handle anything you'd expect the HTPC to do.
An AM3 Sempy is actually a strong little single core chip and should handle HTPC duty just fine as well with the added plus of using less power while staying cool/cooler, meaning you could actually OC it if you want. If the Sempy unlocks and it's stable, that's even better.

The 3800x2 would be up to task, no problem as well but I believe according to the expected wattage draw for each chip it will be close to what the 720 itself would be.
It's up to you of course which way you want to do it.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;15388300*
> Either would do fine with onboard HD4200, so it won't really matter honestly. The X3 would do better though for other tasks honestly.


The thing is, the HTPC is not going to see much more duty than streaming Netflix/Hulu and websurfing. Possibly some really easy games for my kids that I'm sure even a 3500+ could run just fine, like Worms and whatnot.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton;15388540*
> These two/three builds have their own advantages.
> The 720 would have plenty of power to handle anything you'd expect the HTPC to do.
> An AM3 Sempy is actually a strong little single core chip and should handle HTPC duty just fine as well with the added plus of using less power while staying cool/cooler, meaning you could actually OC it if you want. If the Sempy unlocks and it's stable, that's even better.
> 
> The 3800x2 would be up to task, no problem as well but I believe according to the expected wattage draw for each chip it will be close to what the 720 itself would be.
> It's up to you of course which way you want to do it.


What about the 3500+? Is that even a viable chip at this point? It's my delidded one and I have a Thermalright low profile XP120 heatsink that's been customized for it. With it being delidded, I bet I could get away without even using a fan on it. Only drawback though, is that AsRock board is a refurb. Was hoping it was new.


----------



## Blitz6804

If you're going to use a single core, you'll either want Windows XP or perhaps some flavor of Linux... Fedora LXDE is a very slick OS.







I would not want to try a single core in Windows 7, bu that is just me.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackOmega;15388765*
> The thing is, the HTPC is not going to see much more duty than streaming Netflix/Hulu and websurfing. Possibly some really easy games for my kids that I'm sure even a 3500+ could run just fine, like Worms and whatnot.
> 
> What about the 3500+? Is that even a viable chip at this point? It's my delidded one and I have a Thermalright low profile XP120 heatsink that's been customized for it. With it being delidded, I bet I could get away without even using a fan on it. Only drawback though, is that AsRock board is a refurb. Was hoping it was new.


It's still viable but compared to a Sempy 140/145 it will use more wattage - I'm just saying here.
With the 3500+ it should do all of the above. If it's a question if simply using what you have, I'd at least give the 3500+ a try and see.

As for using a Sempy with Win 7, my Sempys have no problem with it at all. You won't be playing Crysis with it by any means but it can and will handle the useage BO stated just fine.
If he gets a Sempy that will unlock that would be the ticket. My 140 unlocks and does fine up to about 3200MHz stable but anything after that it tends to start acting buggy, fine for short, high MHz runs but even then it maxxes out around 3900 or so.
Kinda sad that my 145 won't unlock but it's still a good little chip, handles most anything within reason well enough and would handle what he wants to do with his.


----------



## dlee7283

the 939 build is a good option if u have ddr1 and a Athlon lying around.

the 939 board also has hdmi out and the 4200 supports ATI AVivo.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;15392542*
> If you're going to use a single core, you'll either want Windows XP or perhaps some flavor of Linux... Fedora LXDE is a very slick OS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would not want to try a single core in Windows 7, bu that is just me.


Most likely would use XP Pro.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton;15395900*
> It's still viable but compared to a Sempy 140/145 it will use more wattage - I'm just saying here.
> With the 3500+ it should do all of the above. If it's a question if simply using what you have, I'd at least give the 3500+ a try and see.
> 
> As for using a Sempy with Win 7, my Sempys have no problem with it at all. You won't be playing Crysis with it by any means but it can and will handle the useage BO stated just fine.
> If he gets a Sempy that will unlock that would be the ticket. My 140 unlocks and does fine up to about 3200MHz stable but anything after that it tends to start acting buggy, fine for short, high MHz runs but even then it maxxes out around 3900 or so.
> Kinda sad that my 145 won't unlock but it's still a good little chip, handles most anything within reason well enough and would handle what he wants to do with his.


Nah wouldn't be playing Crysis or anything. At most it would be some kid games that would probably run through a browser window and what not. Possibly the most demanding game for it would be ..... Kung Fu Panda.









As for parts, well, I have a bunch of them laying around --hence I'm trying to clear some of it out.

But I have that 720 + 2 GB 1866 Patriot Vipers, that 3800x2 and 4GB of Corsair XMS plats. I was planning on using some form of onboard video (ATi 4250). Decisions, decisions.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackOmega;15398751*
> Most likely would use XP Pro.
> 
> Nah wouldn't be playing Crysis or anything. At most it would be some kid games that would probably run through a browser window and what not. Possibly the most demanding game for it would be ..... Kung Fu Panda.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for parts, well, I have a bunch of them laying around --hence I'm trying to clear some of it out.
> 
> But I have that 720 + 2 GB 1866 Patriot Vipers, that 3800x2 and 4GB of Corsair XMS plats. I was planning on using some form of onboard video (ATi 4250). Decisions, decisions.


Figured I'd run down the wattage draw of each choice you have.

The 720 if you use it draws 95W according to it's specs.
Overkill for a machine like you're wanting to build but in that light it will have zero problems doing it. Heka core chips run cool so heat shoudn't be much of an issue

The 3800x2 is rated for 89W but like the 720 it shoudn't have a problem running the system. Again, heat shoudn't be a real concern with a good cooler.

The 3500+ chip, based on what core it is will either draw 67W or 89W, 89W being high for a single core. The Clawhammer & Newcastle 3500+'s are the ones with the high power draw according to specs and you might have some heat issues because of this - If your 3500+ is one of those.

The AM3 Sempron 140/145 are both rated to draw 45W and if unlocked it's the same a Regor core, that rating is for 65W draw. In any case the Semprons will run cool unless the chip is defective somehow or you have a real cooling problem going on.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton;15407577*
> Figured I'd run down the wattage draw of each choice you have.
> 
> The 720 if you use it draws 95W according to it's specs.
> Overkill for a machine like you're wanting to build but in that light it will have zero problems doing it. Heka core chips run cool so heat shoudn't be much of an issue
> 
> The 3800x2 is rated for 89W but like the 720 it shoudn't have a problem running the system. Again, heat shoudn't be a real concern with a good cooler.
> 
> The 3500+ chip, based on what core it is will either draw 67W or 89W, 89W being high for a single core. The Clawhammer & Newcastle 3500+'s are the ones with the high power draw according to specs and you might have some heat issues because of this - If your 3500+ is one of those.
> 
> The AM3 Sempron 140/145 are both rated to draw 45W and if unlocked it's the same a Regor core, that rating is for 65W draw. In any case the Semprons will run cool unless the chip is defective somehow or you have a real cooling problem going on.


Thanks Kryton,

For what it's worth, both the x3 720 and the 3800x2 are lapped. So that definitely helps out with the heat issue. The 3500+ is naked (de-lidded). That's why I was thinking that I may even be able to get away with passive cooling using that Thermalright XP120 heatsink on it.

I suppose it'll depend on what I can sell and what I can't, although, that 939 board, which is remanned, is more expensive than that AM3 Biostar.

Maybe I'll just slap some computers together and try to sell them on CL or Ebay, and start my HTPC build from scratch.


----------



## SwishaMane

Older tech, especially something as great as the s939, will ALWAYS be more expensive. The older and rarer it gets, the more sought after it'll be for us...


----------



## 420Assassin

my sig rig should be a collectors piece i think, wanna get another 2gig for it tho max out.

love my 939 underestimated even still to this day, man i play dead island 2 high everything not once soo far has it lagged or anything


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *420Assassin;15417483*
> my sig rig should be a collectors piece i think, wanna get another 2gig for it tho max out.
> 
> love my 939 underestimated even still to this day, man i play dead island 2 high everything not once soo far has it lagged or anything


939 is still a great gaming platform. OC's wonderfully.

If you're interested, I have 4GB of Corsair XMS Platinums with the Infineon IC's on them. PM me if you want them.


----------



## 420Assassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackOmega;15417515*
> If you're interested, I have 4GB of Corsair XMS Platinums with the Infineon IC's on them. PM me if you want them.


would they happen to be pc4000. talkin to someone now for another 2gig of the sticks in sig rig right now some ocz gold pc4000


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:



Originally Posted by *420Assassin*


would they happen to be pc4000. talkin to someone now for another 2gig of the sticks in sig rig right now some ocz gold pc4000


Nope. They're the PC3200's. However, they have great timings 2-3-3-6.

Newegg link.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*


What the? Where you been? Sorry haven't kept up on the thread.


Loong story, fill you in when we talk. rather not clutter up the forums with my personal info.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Hueristic and N2Gaming in the same locality? RUN TO THE HILLS! *RUN FOR YOUR LIVES!*










Yeah, we're having some good times.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


A single core would do fine as long as your GPU can handle the processing, and that onboard 4200 would do fine. You could build a Sempron AM3 build with onboard and it would do fine for HTPC use.


Yeah that's good onboard for a htpc. The 3800X2 will handle it fine. Not sure if the 3500 will stutter on 720p mkv's they tend to hit the cpu hard.


----------



## justmekaren

Hello just wanted to say thank you to the powers that be for keeping socket 939 alive here







)


----------



## 420Assassin

Nice pretty much maxed out my 939 in every way







ohh how nice she responds now getting 4 gigs of ddr500 in her 2 gigs was nice but 4 is better


----------



## pioneerisloud

Nice 420! Now clock that chip further! I'm sure its got more than 2.75 in it.


----------



## *ka24e*

<--- Late to the party, but here is mine.

Athlon 64 x2 4200+ Manchester core (ADA4200AA5BV) Removed IHS 2.85ghz on air








*Sig rig btw*

2.85ghz @ 1.625 vcore (Bios = 1.625 / CPU -Z = 1.61v)



*Note: The low score is mostly due to the ram speed. It's just over 203mhz and absolutely refuses to run at anything above DDR440. Better ram and more core voltage on water could net 3.0ghz.


----------



## 420Assassin

i got to 3GHz not stable, with all 4 dims full gonna be fun getting more, scared to raise voltage although have great air cooler geminII. may try for 2.8GHz stable next but from 2GHz stock its a nice OC


----------



## *ka24e*

I have so-so air cooling. Thermaltake Golden Orb II in a sealed mATX case....

At 1.625v core under prime large FFT (2.85ghz) temps are around 70c, and peak was about 76c followed by failing prime. I repeated it a couple times, and it failed as soon as core 2 hit 76c.

I did hit 2.9ghz @ 1.625 and ran SuperPi 1M, but It crashed about half way through. On water and 1.7-ish vcore, I'm almost 100% 3.0+ ghz is definitely possible.
At least for a few days before the chip dies, lol.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by **ka24e**
> 
> I have so-so air cooling. Thermaltake Golden Orb II in a sealed mATX case....
> 
> At 1.625v core under prime large FFT (2.85ghz) temps are around 70c, and peak was about 76c followed by failing prime. I repeated it a couple times, and it failed as soon as core 2 hit 76c.
> 
> I did hit 2.9ghz @ 1.625 and ran SuperPi 1M, but It crashed about half way through. On water and 1.7-ish vcore, I'm almost 100% 3.0+ ghz is definitely possible.
> At least for a few days before the chip dies, lol.


You need to get them temperatures lower. K8 doesn't like passing 65*C under full load, and the lower the better for stability.

My old Opteron 165 would actually clock HIGHER at the same volts if it was colder. 3.0GHz was 24/7 stable at 1.34v. I got 3.1GHz out of it stable with the same voltage...but it took -15*F ambients (loaded at about 40*C instead of 57*C).


----------



## *ka24e*

Yeah I've been hearing that. I honestly don't know how people get such low temps, unless were talking about water cooled.

On air I've tried several different fans, including a 115v (wall socket) fan that was loud as hell and spun at aprox, 7,000 or so RPM. This dropped temps about 2c under load, so instead of low 70'c I was at around 68/69c. And that is was with the IHS removed using AC5.

This morning when I woke up, ambient temps were probably at 16-17c roughly. Even tho it was pretty cool, temps still hovered in the high 60's at full load.


----------



## ny_driver

Anyone heard anything about the winter OC contest prizes yet? Another contest this year?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by **ka24e**
> 
> Yeah I've been hearing that. I honestly don't know how people get such low temps, unless were talking about water cooled.
> 
> On air I've tried several different fans, including a 115v (wall socket) fan that was loud as hell and spun at aprox, 7,000 or so RPM. This dropped temps about 2c under load, so instead of low 70'c I was at around 68/69c. And that is was with the IHS removed using AC5.
> 
> This morning when I woke up, ambient temps were probably at 16-17c roughly. Even tho it was pretty cool, temps still hovered in the high 60's at full load.


If all you've ever used was the Golden Orb, that's why. With my Xigmatek S1283, I was able to push about 1.55v safely through my Opteron 165, and keep temps under 65*C, using IC Diamond. I also had 2 Delta's in a push / pull at the time though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ny_driver*
> 
> Anyone heard anything about the winter OC contest prizes yet? Another contest this year?


He still hasn't gotten those prizes out? Seriously?







I'll have to dig through my archives and see who all had won what prizes, and get on him. I thought for sure he would have shipped them by now. I know he had moved and gotten a new job, but I figured a year would've been enough time by now, lol. I'm terribly sorry about that.


----------



## *ka24e*

I'm not sure why I never though of using it, but I have an old HP air snorkel. I "modified" it to fit around the Orb and added a 90mm intake fan to blow over it. Anyways, running Orthos small fft's core temps never passed 145*F (TCase temp) under load @ 1.5v.

Just for the hell of it, I dropped voltage to 1.475v and ran Orthos. It's 10minutes in and so far its stable. Max temp 143* F. Not bad, considering it was in the 155 -160* F range before.


----------



## N2Gaming

I'm selling GPU's here ASUS GTX 460 768mb TOPCU cards


----------



## 420Assassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ny_driver*
> 
> Anyone heard anything about the winter OC contest prizes yet? Another contest this year?
> 
> 
> 
> He still hasn't gotten those prizes out? Seriously?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll have to dig through my archives and see who all had won what prizes, and get on him. I thought for sure he would have shipped them by now. I know he had moved and gotten a new job, but I figured a year would've been enough time by now, lol. I'm terribly sorry about that.
Click to expand...

i won the video card,
make it easy for you pio

Contest #1: No hunny, you are always gorgeous!

420Assassin: Claimed! 1x HD4870 with Arctic Cooling Cooler
ny_driver: Declined any further prizes, as per his request.
nategr8ns: Claimed! 1x XFX 6200 256MB AGP card (delivered i was donor)

Contest #2: I've got balls of steel!

SINGLE CORES:

ny_driver: Claimed! 1x BNIB Opteron 170 LCB9E
Kryton: Claimed! 1x Athlon64 3200+ (delivered i was donor)
cssorkinman: Claimed! 1x Soundblaster Live! 5.1 PCI Sound Card (delivered i was donor)

DUAL CORES:

SwishaMane: Claimed! 1x Mushkin Redline DDR500 2x1GB (used but VERY healthy)
ny_driver: Declined any further prizes, as per his request.
Kryton: Claimed! 1x 5 port PCI USB 2.0 card (delivered i was donor)


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *420Assassin*
> 
> i won the video card,
> make it easy for you pio
> Contest #1: No hunny, you are always gorgeous!
> 420Assassin: Claimed! 1x HD4870 with Arctic Cooling Cooler
> ny_driver: Declined any further prizes, as per his request.
> nategr8ns: Claimed! 1x XFX 6200 256MB AGP card (delivered i was donor)
> Contest #2: I've got balls of steel!
> SINGLE CORES:
> ny_driver: Claimed! 1x BNIB Opteron 170 LCB9E
> Kryton: Claimed! 1x Athlon64 3200+ (delivered i was donor)
> cssorkinman: Claimed! 1x Soundblaster Live! 5.1 PCI Sound Card (delivered i was donor)
> DUAL CORES:
> SwishaMane: Claimed! 1x Mushkin Redline DDR500 2x1GB (used but VERY healthy)
> ny_driver: Declined any further prizes, as per his request.
> Kryton: Claimed! 1x 5 port PCI USB 2.0 card (delivered i was donor)


OK - When's the next comp gonna be?









How about the 754 comp - Anything further on that?
I'm ready 2 go either way.....


----------



## pioneerisloud

Thanks 420.







Bookmarked it. Next time I see that person pop online somewhere, I'll make sure he hears about this, and figure out what's been holding him up for so long.









Again, to everyone on that list that has NOT gotten your prize from last years competition, I am terribly terribly sorry. You do have to admit though, the competition itself was a lot of fun, and pretty well organized thanks to all of our judges and panel.


----------



## lollingtonbear

I rebuilt my 939 system recently, its nice to see its still all working







Almost exactly six years after I brought it (Dec 2005)

I'm probably going to use it for old XP games, not sure yet.


----------



## HothBase

Nice! Have you tested to see if it can go even further if you lower the HT multi a notch?







Most Toledos can manage higher.


----------



## lollingtonbear

Thanks, yes it can surprisingly!

I originally had a A8N-e, and it would only go up to 220*11, no higher even if I lowered the HT and RAM timings.

With a Gigabyte board I took it up to about 240*11 on stock volts and it was stable with 4*HT

That boards caps started to swell so I replaced it with a DFI I'm running now. It can boot up to 250*11, but needs more juice. I'm going to play around with it some more to see what I can get out of it..


----------



## HothBase

DFI made some of the best overclocking boards for the 939 socket. I never owned one personally but from what I've heard the LanParty series was awesome. Good luck, make sure to post your results after tweaking.


----------



## lollingtonbear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HothBase*
> 
> DFI made some of the best overclocking boards for the 939 socket. I never owned one personally but from what I've heard the LanParty series was awesome. Good luck, make sure to post your results after tweaking.


They are nice, I had an AM3 board for a while, ran my 955x4 at 3800 with no problems

So far I've gotten up to 247*11 4*HT and ram is running with a 05/06 divider. CPU is set to 1.5V (reads 1.40V in bios and lower in cpu-z)
Its broken my previous oc record








Any higher and windows wont boot, citing missing files.

Best thing about this board is I can use my ultra120 in its intended orientation, see pic.


----------



## nategr8ns

I still think the stock northbridge cooler on those DFI boards (and my MSI one) are a little loud for 24/7 use. How do you like that one? Is it quiet?


----------



## 420Assassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*
> 
> I still think the stock northbridge cooler on those DFI boards (and my MSI one) are a little loud for 24/7 use. How do you like that one? Is it quiet?


ya i found loud aswell unless keep spinning at low speed, i switched to a hr-05 sli/ifx and LOVE it cool temps passive even lower with fan variable speed 2k tops and still quieter than stock one


----------



## lollingtonbear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*
> 
> I still think the stock northbridge cooler on those DFI boards (and my MSI one) are a little loud for 24/7 use. How do you like that one? Is it quiet?


Its loud like all nf4 boards I've used. Its got a fan/temp control in bios so its not too bad if its running cool.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *420Assassin*
> 
> ya i found loud aswell unless keep spinning at low speed, i switched to a hr-05 sli/ifx and LOVE it cool temps passive even lower with fan variable speed 2k tops and still quieter than stock one


I use a Tt Extreme Spirit II cooler with mine when it's not on water. Works great and virtually silent too. Have the cooler on the CHV's SB chip right now and it's running nice and cool.


----------



## 420Assassin

i was bit tight for space tho







lol here some fresh pics just took what she looks like, may do 1 or 2 more small mods to her temp displays ordered few off ebay


----------



## ny_driver

Howdy all. Happy Holidays!
I finally got a cheap FX-60 to torture. CCB2E 0536WPMW. ($80 shipped with a possibly dead SLI-DR...and a danger den cpu block and chipset block)








I need 3.9GHz to beat knopflerbruce for the cpuz WR.








If anyone can do it I can.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lollingtonbear*
> 
> They are nice, I had an AM3 board for a while, ran my 955x4 at 3800 with no problems
> So far I've gotten up to 247*11 4*HT and ram is running with a 05/06 divider. CPU is set to 1.5V (reads 1.40V in bios and lower in cpu-z)
> Its broken my previous oc record
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any higher and windows wont boot, citing missing files.
> Best thing about this board is I can use my ultra120 in its intended orientation, see pic.


Try OCing the chip from within windows. If I could remember the name of the program I use I'd tell you.







Maybe someone else could chime in before I think of it.


----------



## bluestormz

939 was the last time AMD even attempted to keep up with Intel on a consistent basis, it was great.


----------



## 420Assassin

clockgen the program came with DFI LanParty to OC within Windows here link to a DL for it
http://files.extremeoverclocking.com/file.php?f=189


----------



## ny_driver

Ahhh yes, thanks 420 brother.


----------



## lollingtonbear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ny_driver*
> 
> Try OCing the chip from within windows. If I could remember the name of the program I use I'd tell you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe someone else could chime in before I think of it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *420Assassin*
> 
> clockgen the program came with DFI LanParty to OC within Windows here link to a DL for it
> http://files.extremeoverclocking.com/file.php?f=189


Thanks for the suggestion ny_driver and 420Assassin









I was able to get it up to *2905 MHz*...


...and after a blue screen and suicidal volts, *3005 MHz*


I wont be running at those volts again, buts its nice to know what it can do. Its running at 2530 MHz at for now and I'm happy with that as the ht and ram can run closer to normal speeds.
For future reference I used a 110w toldeo 4400x2, samsung ddr400, nfi sli with 2006-04-06 bios, ultra 120 back, 8800gts512 and a vx550.


----------



## ny_driver

I have a 4400+ Toledo sitting here that I got 3.33GHz out of.....so far. Going to pour some LN2 on it later and see how far she'll go.
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1731733
I was pumping -30C coolant.


----------



## lollingtonbear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ny_driver*
> 
> I have a 4400+ Toledo sitting here that I got 3.33GHz out of.....so far. Going to pour some LN2 on it later and see how far she'll go.
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1731733
> I was pumping -30C coolant.


Neat







does win7 impact clocks in anyway?
In your opinion how high can you set the voltage before death becomes imminent?


----------



## ny_driver

I wouldn't go any higher probably unless you had much better cooling. It's the heat that kills them. You should be able to reach 3GHz @ stock voltage if it were below 0.

I personally like Win7 better. It loads with much less cpu usage than XP, and I think it's more stable. I use Tiny7 for most benching.


----------



## cssorkinman

I have a chance to buy a DFI UT RDX200 socket 939 motherboard and was wondering how good of an overclocking board it is? Is it generally better or worse than the NF4 boards?
Thanks for any replies


----------



## gordesky1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> I have a chance to buy a DFI UT RDX200 socket 939 motherboard and was wondering how good of an overclocking board it is? Is it generally better or worse than the NF4 boards?
> Thanks for any replies


Always have been a good overclocking board for me and i still have it running as my storage server which runs 24/7.

But ya great board for overclocking i had my opteron 165 up too 3.050mhzs stable, And ran it at 3ghzs for most of its life That's over 1ghz overclock sense the 165 runs at 1.8ghzs stock.


----------



## ny_driver

Not too many world records held using that board, but that is indeed nice overclock








Opterons are nice, although all I have are single cores








I recently scored an FX-60 though and clocked it up to about 3.7GHz








Only #4 in the world........hoping to do better still.
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2164069


----------



## ny_driver

oops


----------



## cdoublejj

i just clocked a 2.2 dual core to 2.6 and the 9600gt from 625 to 775 and upped the ram too 4gb. holds up just like any other current dual core.


----------



## cssorkinman

Nice oc on the FX 60 driver









Is $80 too much for a NIB DFI UT RDX200 ?


----------



## ny_driver

$80 shipped sounds fair to me.


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ny_driver*
> 
> Not too many world records held using that board, but that is indeed nice overclock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Opterons are nice, although all I have are single cores
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I recently scored an FX-60 though and clocked it up to about 3.7GHz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only #4 in the world........hoping to do better still.
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2164069


Hey NY-driver







long time no see. Nice OC on that FX60.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Nice oc on the FX 60 driver
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is $80 too much for a NIB DFI UT RDX200 ?


That seems decent, although if you're looking for a board I have 2 DFI LP' UIltra D's (SLI modded). One even has a lapped north bridge heatsink which lowered operating temps 10C on the NB.

Let me know if you're interested.


----------



## philhalo66

well im back on S939







and lovin it lol
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2181900


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> well im back on S939
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and lovin it lol
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2181900


Way cool phil!







Just got a new PSU for my 939 rig.


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*
> 
> Way cool phil!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just got a new PSU for my 939 rig.


sweet how many watts?


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> sweet how many watts?


600w. I picked up a Corsair CX600V2 since they were on sale and then had a $20 MIR. $39.99 after. Mind you, I'm using it on an SLI rig with 2 9600GSO's. Probably overkill but well worth it IMO.


----------



## philhalo66

this is OCN overkill isn't in our vocabulary.


----------



## BlackOmega

Well it's official. All of my 939 gear is gone! Had a good run while it lasted, but I had to let it go to make way for my next build!

i7 2600k (possibly 2700k), Venomous X, ASRock Extreme 4 Gen 3, 16GB Corsair XMS 1600MHz, dual unlocked Sapphire 6950's, Samsung Spinpoint F3, PC Power & Cooling 760w (turns out these are identical to SeaSonics S/M12D line), all housed in a Lian Li case.







This thing is going to scream!


----------



## N2Gaming

I should probably sell my 939 stuff but I'd feel like I was letting go of AMD's claim to fame hardware Line Up.









Where is Hueristic


----------



## 420Assassin

i will never sell my 939 rig, its a collectors piece to me now with all thats in it


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*
> 
> I should probably sell my 939 stuff but I'd feel like I was letting go of AMD's claim to fame hardware Line Up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where is Hueristic


Where the heck is Hue? Last I had heard anything from him eas when he was out at your place.
Yeah the 939 series was their claim to the top spot. Same time I taught myself how to build computers and dabbling in overclocking. Fun times.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *420Assassin*
> 
> i will never sell my 939 rig, its a collectors piece to me now with all thats in it


Had to get rid of it. It was just sitting around gathering dust for the most part. Figured someone else would actually put it to good use.
That and I needed the money to complete my 1155 rig. Although I just traded my i5 for a 1090t, asus crosshair, 8gb ram and a $70 cooler.








Cant seem to get away from AMD's.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*
> 
> Well it's official. All of my 939 gear is gone! Had a good run while it lasted, but I had to let it go to make way for my next build!
> i7 2600k (possibly 2700k), Venomous X, ASRock Extreme 4 Gen 3, 16GB Corsair XMS 1600MHz, dual unlocked Sapphire 6950's, Samsung Spinpoint F3, PC Power & Cooling 760w (turns out these are identical to SeaSonics S/M12D line), all housed in a Lian Li case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This thing is going to scream!


Awe







. I've still got two full 939 systems. One out here in my acrylic (Project: Rocks in a Glass House) case on my old MSI Neo4-f board and my beloved DFI/Opteron setup back east sitting in my old bedroom.
I kind of want to sell the DFI one, but at the same time, I love those components so much.


----------



## N2Gaming

939 DFI lanparty boards are die hards.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I really REALLY wish I still had my Opteron setup.







It would be great to be using that over my stupid Pentium D for a file server.


----------



## dlee7283

anyone who got a 939 setup along with a DFI board at launch probably got the best value out of computer hardware ever.

problem is that the X2 939's finally went down in price on ebay about 3 months ago.


----------



## SwishaMane

I sold most of my 939 CPU collection, but still run my vmodded Asus A8N-E with a 3800x2, and 2 GB of Corsair platinum XMS. Even got my 8800gtx which is a perfect match for 939. Good backup rig. Still got my ES too, and never DID receive my prize either...


----------



## cdoublejj

I still have an ASUS A8N32-SLI Deluxe with 4gb DDR1 (Kingston i believe) and Toledo 4400+ @2.61ghz? as fars as that is still decent right? my brother gamed on it for the longest time. titles like WoW, DarkSiders, Magicka and MassEffect 1&2. Any who is it worth selling?


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> I still have an ASUS A8N32-SLI Deluxe with 4gb DDR1 (Kingston i believe) and Toledo 4400+ @2.61ghz? as fars as that is still decent right? my brother gamed on it for the longest time. titles like WoW, DarkSiders, Magicka and MassEffect 1&2. Any who is it worth selling?


If you have little to no sentimental attachment to it, yeah, its probably worth selling. It's a personal decision though.


----------



## bird333

I was told to post here in the hopes that someone could diagnose this issue I have. I bought a DFI Lanparty board used (Ultra D modded to SLI with AMD 3800x2 cpu) combo and I can't seem to get it to detect the 4 gigs of ram that is in it (4x 1gig Corsair sticks). Well it seems something is wrong with slots 3 & 4 on the board. It doesn't seem to be the ram itself because I have switched them all around and I have the same problems.

Here are the issues/symptoms:

1. Only about 3.4 gigs of ram are detected by the bios (except after the very first boot after a CMOS reset then all 4 gigs are shown).
2. I can't just install one stick of ram in either slot 3 or 4. The system won't boot.
3. Memtest reports memory errors at the same address range regardless of what order the sticks are mounted on the board. (I need to double check this again)
4. I can't add only 1 stick of ram to either slot 3 or 4 if both slots 1&2 are filled.

Things I have tried:
1. Switched ram around to different slots.
2. Reset the CPU.
3. Attached the molex and FDD power connectors to the board for extra power.
4. Reset CMOS several times
5. Raised the voltage to the ram in the bios (defaults to 2.6v, I've tried 2.7v and 2.8v)
6. Replaced the CMOS battery.
7. Cleaned the gold fingers of the ram and the slots.

Like mentioned above, 4 gigs of ram will show in the bios after a CMOS reset but after I exit out of the bios and the system reboots only 3.4 gigs are shown.

Questions:
1. I read online that the memory controller is inside the CPU is this true?
2. Assuming number 1 is true, how can I tell if the problem is with the motherboard or the CPU?
3. Which settings in the DRAM config in the bios control all the timing settings? (Memtest says the ram is 3-3-3-7, the bios says it is already at '2T').

Thanks!


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bird333*
> 
> I was told to post here in the hopes that someone could diagnose this issue I have. I bought a DFI Lanparty board used (Ultra D modded to SLI with AMD 3800x2 cpu) combo and I can't seem to get it to detect the 4 gigs of ram that is in it (4x 1gig Corsair sticks). Well it seems something is wrong with slots 3 & 4 on the board. It doesn't seem to be the ram itself because I have switched them all around and I have the same problems.
> Here are the issues/symptons:
> 1. Only about 3.4 gigs of ram are detected by the bios (except after the very first boot after a CMOS reset then all 4 gigs are shown).
> 2. I can't just install one stick of ram in either slot 3 or 4. The system won't boot.
> 3. Memtest reports memory errors at the same address range regardless of what order the sticks are mounted on the board. (I need to double check this again)
> 4. I can't add only 1 stick of ram to either slot 3 or 4 if both slots 1&2 are filled.
> Things I have tried:
> 1. Switched ram around to different slots.
> 2. Resetted the CPU.
> 3. Attached the molex and FDD power connectors to the board for extra power.
> 4. Reset CMOS several times
> 5. Raised the voltage to the ram in the bios (defaults to 2.6v, I've tried 2.7v and 2.8v)
> 6. Replaced the CMOS battery.
> 7. Cleaned the gold fingers of the ram and the slots.
> Like mentioned above, 4 gigs of ram will show in the bios after a CMOS reset but after I exit out of the bios and the system reboots only 3.4 gigs are shown.
> Questions:
> 1. I read online that the memory controller is inside the CPU is this true?
> 2. Assuming number 1 is true, how can I tell if the problem is with the motherboard or the CPU?
> 3. Which settings in the DRAM config in the bios control all the timing settings? (Memtest says the ram is 3-3-3-7, the bios says it is already at '2T').
> Thanks!


Let me guess - You are running Win XP as your operating system.








If you are, know that XP only recognizes a little over 3GB's of RAM, any more and it will simply be ignored. To really use more than that, you'd need either Win Vista or Win 7 to use all 4 GB's. If that's not the case, could be some bad RAM slots but it sounds like the XP RAM useage limitation issue from what you've posted.


----------



## N2Gaming

Unless he is using XP Pro x64. From the looks of it he is only using a 32 bit OS.


----------



## bird333

Thanks for the reply. Yes there is win xp on the HD however I am talking at the bios level before I get into the os. But just for good measure, I unplugged the hd and it still does the same thing.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bird333*
> 
> Like mentioned above, 4 gigs of ram will show in the bios after a CMOS reset but after I exit out of the bios and the system reboots only 3.4 gigs are shown.


Where is this 3.4GB showing up? In the POST Screen or when you go back into the bios?

Have you ever flashed your bios and is it possible that you have a bios that only recognizes 32bits of RAM?

Regarding your questions.

#1 is true the IMC "integrated Memory controller" is built into the CPU

#2 You can check if the problem exists w/the RAM, CPU or Board by using them in another board. Keep in mind it is said here and there that the IMC on the 939 chips don't like 4 slots of ram. Especially when you try to use 1GB sticks. Are all your RAM sticks identical? Same Model Numbers & Same Version Numbers? If not that could be part of the problem. Also have to set the RAM manually or are you trying to let the BIOS set the Timings for the ram? Oh I guess if I answer question number 3 then I would not have asked you if you set the ram in the bios.

#3 I don't recal where the settings for the ram is in the bios but it should be in on the the top few of the Right columbs of the main BIOS Screen IIRC


----------



## pioneerisloud

Memory remapping. That's your problem. Could also be called a memory hole, I forget which.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Memory remapping. That's your problem. Could also be called a memory hole, I forget which.


Oh yeah that option totally slipped my mind and I concur. Good Job Pio.


----------



## bird333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*
> 
> Where is this 3.4GB showing up? In the POST Screen or when you go back into the bios?
> Have you ever flashed your bios and is it possible that you have a bios that only recognizes 32bits of RAM?
> Regarding your questions.
> #1 is true the IMC "integrated Memory controller" is built into the CPU
> #2 You can check if the problem exists w/the RAM, CPU or Board by using them in another board. Keep in mind it is said here and there that the IMC on the 939 chips don't like 4 slots of ram. Especially when you try to use 1GB sticks. Are all your RAM sticks identical? Same Model Numbers & Same Version Numbers? If not that could be part of the problem. Also have to set the RAM manually or are you trying to let the BIOS set the Timings for the ram? Oh I guess if I answer question number 3 then I would not have asked you if you set the ram in the bios.
> #3 I don't recal where the settings for the ram is in the bios but it should be in on the the top few of the Right columbs of the main BIOS Screen IIRC


The 3.4 gig shows up in the post screen and in the bios. No I haven't flashed this bios. I just got this board. I don't know if the previous owner has ever flashed it. Unfortunately, I don't have another rig to test these parts with. Yes all 4 sticks of ram are identical.


----------



## 420Assassin

]i sec i know exactly whats happening goin to reboot find setting need to change



then make sure this enabled


----------



## pioneerisloud

Didn't I just say that a few posts up?


----------



## 420Assassin

read over quickly was on way out opps lol didnt see.. that was for a visual ref for ya to help him







lol


----------



## bird333

Thanks guys. I got the system detecting the whole 4 gigs with that setting.. Memtest is still showing a couple of errors. Now to see if the board will let me test 1 stick at a time to see if I have a bad ram stick or what.


----------



## cdoublejj

yup the board i was using was the worst cause the bios had a bug reporting the correct ram size even after enabling the memory whole it would utilize it it just wouldn't show it during boot correctly. i was banging my head for hours.


----------



## bird333

Ok it seems I have one bad ram stick. It works fine in single channel mode (64-bit), but fails Memtest test 5 in dual channel mode. According to Memtest the settings are 3-3-3-8. The voltage was set to 2.8v. Is there anything that I can do for this stick or is it just toast?


----------



## 420Assassin

do you have set to 1T or 2T with all 4 dimms being used must be at 2T


----------



## cdoublejj

i did 2T to be safe as far as i know that is timing/latency with more sticks you need more leeway. a chain is only as strong as the weakest link, so it's best to take it easy on all the ram sticks.


----------



## bird333

If you are talking to me, I only had two sticks installed to determine the bad stick. I don't know if it was set to 1T or 2T. But with only 2 sticks in dual channel mode should I have to be running at 2T? Which setting in the bios controls the 2T setting?


----------



## cdoublejj

it depends on the bios. i'd just assume leave it on auto or 2t for 2 sticks i doubt there is a noticeable performance gain at 1t.


----------



## beers

Apparently the difference is ~2-3% in general applications.
http://www.overclock.net/t/32605/1t-vs-2t-command-rate-is-there-a-real-performance-difference

2 sticks shouldn't have a problem running 1T assuming your memory modules will operate reliably with those timings.
4 sticks essentially requires you to use 2T at a reduced frequency.


----------



## pioneerisloud

General rule of thumb with 939 RAM:

1-2 sticks (single or dual channel) = 1T will work, DDR400+ will work
3 sticks = generally won't work (same with mis matched sizes)
4 sticks (dual channel, all matching only) = 2T only, DDR333+ will work (DDR400 might not work)

When you run 4 sticks, your default speed drops from DDR400 to DDR333. Anything over 333 then becomes an overclock, and this is due to the IMC limitations. My x2 Manny wouldn't go over 375 with 4 sticks. My Opteron did 567 stable with 4 sticks. So it depends on how good your IMC is.


----------



## just_nuke_em

Random question to you all, but does anyone have a pdf version of the Ultra-D board manual? or know the default jumper locations on the board?


----------



## 420Assassin

here you go this manual covers few board models







i just uploaded this
http://d01.megashares.com/dl/E3W5fGv/DFI_LanParty_ nf4ut_slidr_manual.pdf

if dosnt work send me your email will do that way its a 10MB file couldnt attach here


----------



## cdoublejj

Finally retired the old girl.... for a while, apparently we are gonna make a secondary machine out of it. I found a newer AM2+/AM3 25Watt cpu that performs on par with the Toledo 4400+



















http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/K10/AMD-Athlon%20II%20X2%20250u%20AD250USCK23GQ.html

By on par i mean on par I mean clock for clock, OCed it scored 0.1 higher in the WEI than the 4400+ OCed.


----------



## cssorkinman

So here it is, 2012 and I finally bought a dual core for my socket 939. Nabbed a BNIB 4600 on ebay, interestingly enough..... the part number quoted in the description is for a 4800 - so you know what I am hoping for







.
I'm thinking of making a chiller for it, should be here Friday and hopefully make my weekend a little more fun.


----------



## cdoublejj

whats the highest clock any one ha gotten on 939 dual cores i could only hit 2.61 and mean stable 24/7 usage.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> whats the highest clock any one ha gotten on 939 dual cores i could only hit 2.61 and mean stable 24/7 usage.


My Opty did 3.2 stable daily. Got her up to almost 3.4 suicide. Good times, good times.


----------



## 420Assassin

i run my 3800+ at 2.75GHz 275x10 1.45v i believe 50c mighest temps reach but have a gemini cooler wit 2x120mm fans cooling her


----------



## beers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> whats the highest clock any one ha gotten on 939 dual cores i could only hit 2.61 and mean stable 24/7 usage.


My 165 only got up to around ~2.8 at the edge of stability, but was not sure if that was the board (9npa+ SLi) or the CPU as the limiting factor. The multi for those was pretty low (9x IIRC).


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> My Opty did 3.2 stable daily. Got her up to almost 3.4 suicide. Good times, good times.


WOW


----------



## Space Cowboy

Hello,

I am hoping that someone here has the time to help me find out if I can fix my rig which was taken out by a overloaded home circuit which blew the breaker while my computer was on. It has been my pride and joy for many years. It has a DFI lanparty nforce 4 Utra d motherboard with a Optron 185 and 4 gigs of OCZ dual channel ram. Right now I have replaced the power supply and have some activity but I cannot get into the bios. As soon as I turn on the power supply the machine turns on with the 4 red led's of death. I would appreciate any help.

Thank You


----------



## ducktape

8 years later and I just can't let go. Upgraded from 4000+ to x2 4400+ bought it from a guy on cl for 30 bucks. Running win 7 x64 and now I need more memory.. it never ends.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> My Opty did 3.2 stable daily. Got her up to almost 3.4 suicide. Good times, good times.


My X2 4200 topped 3.4 suicide and the 165 I still have here was easily capable of 3.2+.... Until it got hurt via delidding it.








I haven't tried to repair it yet and need to give it a shot one day.
As for the Optys themselves here the fastest one I have is the 175 that almost broke 3.4 itself (3388MHz).


----------



## pioneerisloud

Yeah, my 165 did 3367 I believe. I was sooo close. I was most definitely board limited too, which is really sad.


----------



## cssorkinman

Does going from a single core to a dual core put a lot more stress on the motherboard's northbridge?


----------



## beers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Does going from a single core to a dual core put a lot more stress on the motherboard's northbridge?


Why would it?


----------



## cssorkinman

Really don't know, I just swapped a 3000+ for a 4600+ and now my northbridge seems to be running much hotter. Just trying to figure out whats going on.


----------



## truckerguy

whats you cpu voltage set at?


----------



## cssorkinman

It seems to run much hotter even at stock voltages. I was just curious if the fact that its now running a dual core put more stress on the northbridge, that would explain the heat.
Thanks for the replies


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> whats the highest clock any one ha gotten on 939 dual cores i could only hit 2.61 and mean stable 24/7 usage.


My ES did 3.4 suicide on 1.8vcore with the vmodded board I still have and currently in use by a 3800 x2. On water. Nice backup rig.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Space Cowboy*
> 
> Hello,
> I am hoping that someone here has the time to help me find out if I can fix my rig which was taken out by a overloaded home circuit which blew the breaker while my computer was on. It has been my pride and joy for many years. It has a DFI lanparty nforce 4 Utra d motherboard with a Optron 185 and 4 gigs of OCZ dual channel ram. Right now I have replaced the power supply and have some activity but I cannot get into the bios. As soon as I turn on the power supply the machine turns on with the 4 red led's of death. I would appreciate any help.
> Thank You


you need to take it out of the frame and remove as many components as possible including bk and mouse just enough like cpu ram and gf card if there is no vga port on the mobo do all fo this on piece of regular brown cardboard. if it does post with bare essentials then you can add stuff till it stops booting again only add one item at a time, usually it is some like a bad ram slot or bad ram stick or even gfx card.


----------



## redhat_ownage

finally got my ultra d back









and achieved DDR567 2-2-2-5
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2283319


----------



## cssorkinman

Very nice Redhat
Here's the best I have been able to do.
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2206703
I bought a 4600 + and haven't been able to get anywhere close to that bus speed , same board and ram.


----------



## redhat_ownage

256mb tccd? oh man, i will trade you a 512mb stick of bh-5 for that


----------



## pioneerisloud

Way to make me continue to miss my poor Opty rig guys.


----------



## redhat_ownage

i thought you killed the opty with a dfi?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage*
> 
> i thought you killed the opty with a dfi?


No. I sold all the parts, fully functional to fund my AM2 quad core build, which then helped fund my current 1155 build. That Opteron is still sitting happily at 3.15GHz 24/7 stable last I heard from the owner. The boards (all like 8 of them I had), don't know where they're at. Same with that amazing Corsair XMS I had. The 1GB sticks (4 of them) that pulled 580, up to 550 stable.

If I still had that rig....it would have been a MUCH better fit for my HTPC, plus I could've tortured it every once in a while. Instead, I've got an OEM Gateway x2 6000 build in there.


----------



## lollingtonbear

I like seeing all the people still running 939s

I recently ran some synthetic benches on it to see how it compared to my current setup
http://www.overclock.net/t/1220827/video-card-performance-differences-between-old-and-new-cpus
I'll do some gaming tests when I have the time, I know its no match but its not unplayable.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage*
> 
> 256mb tccd? oh man, i will trade you a 512mb stick of bh-5 for that


It's the best I have owned. I did manage 311 but it crashed during validation = doesn't count.
I bought it on E-bay for $5







- the listing was very specific and had few watchers.
I'm looking for some more 939 motherboards to play with, trying to snipe something off ebay for cheap.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage*
> 
> finally got my ultra d back
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and achieved DDR567 2-2-2-5
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2283319


Woah... That's insane! Great timings on top of a great clock speed increase.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> I'm looking for some more 939 motherboards to play with, trying to snipe something off ebay for cheap.


GOOD LUCK !


----------



## cdoublejj

What are the best 939 dual cores, clocks, cache, overclocking? prices are dropping and I might give this system more upgrades. I'd like to show one does with an SSD already have 4gb. i suppose the best you could do is good cpu 4gb ram ddr500 and an SSD, or some weird setup enveloping server ram with over 4gb ram.

EDIT: http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMD-Athlon-64-X2-4400-2-2GHz-2MB-socket-939-Dual-Core-ADV4400-89W-Ship-From-US-/260989671240?pt=CPUs&hash=item3cc4325748

89watts 2mb cache, good OCer?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> What are the best 939 dual cores, clocks, cache, overclocking? prices are dropping and I might give this system more upgrades. I'd like to show one does with an SSD already have 4gb. i suppose the best you could do is good cpu 4gb ram ddr500 and an SSD, or some weird setup enveloping server ram with over 4gb ram.
> 
> EDIT: http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMD-Athlon-64-X2-4400-2-2GHz-2MB-socket-939-Dual-Core-ADV4400-89W-Ship-From-US-/260989671240?pt=CPUs&hash=item3cc4325748
> 
> 89watts 2mb cache, good OCer?


Usually the Opteron 165, 170, 175, 180, and 185's are the 939 chips to get. Depending on how well your board will scale that HTT up. If you can't find those, then a good Toledo x2 should do okay. You're looking at 2.8-3.0GHz on a good chip. Golden ones will do 3.0+ with low volts.

If you're looking at Opterons, I've found LCBxE stepping to be amazing (mine was a golden chip, took only 1.33v for 3.0GHz). Some suck, but some don't. CCBxE is another good stepping that should clock well, but might take some voltage to get there.


----------



## cdoublejj

They are still gong fora premium aren't they? is the fx-60 any good? does GOOD cooling help any ie WC over Arctic freezer 7?


----------



## Blitz6804

The FX-60 was a marketing gimmick... not worth the extra money. And yes, *good* water cooling is better over an Arctic Freezer 7: colder chip needs less voltage.


----------



## cdoublejj

Marketing gimmick eehh, why does that sound so familiar, hhhmmm?


----------



## DesertRat

Sorry to just pop in outta nowhere, but I figured you guys might like to see this

I've been salvaging some computers I've been given lately and stumbled upon one of these:
http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/K8/AMD-Athlon%2064%20X2%203800+%20-%20ADA3800DAA5CD%20%28ADA3800CDBOX%29.html
Quote:


> ADA3800DAA5CD
> LCBIE 0622FPMW
> 
> Assembled in Malaysia


Toledo 3800+ X2
Supposedly 2.8Ghz+ chips guaranteed from what I was reading.

1st place I thought of was the s939 club on OCN









If I had a decent board, I'd build a system around it myself(also got 4x512MB DDR 400), but the only s939 board I have is the one it was salvaged out of, a Gateway w/ a mBTX layout. yes, microBTX. It booted fine, but the caps for the mem's power circuitry are bloated as heck. I'm no good w/ a soldering iron, can't afford the space, etc. So I'm just part scrapping it.


----------



## cssorkinman

I picked up some new DDR for my 939 boards to play with , any opinions on the quality of this set? CORSAIR 2GB (4x512MB) CMX512-4400C25 DDR 550MHz XMS440v1.1


----------



## 420Assassin

wow wonder if should upgrade my old lanparty some good deals on ebay..

180 opty REAL cheap 2 days left-- would recommend someone watch it









http://www.ebay.ca/itm/261021664059?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_1782wt_866

old lanparty nf4 sli-dr says has issues but for cheap enough could do suicide run with it lol

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/DFI-Lanparty-NF4-socket-939-/120908387718?pt=AU_Components&hash=item1c26b39586#ht_793wt_1099


----------



## Hueristic

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/261021664059?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_1782wt_866
old lanparty nf4 sli-dr says has issues but for cheap enough could do suicide run with it lol
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/DFI-Lanparty-NF4-socket-939-/120908387718?pt=AU_Components&hash=item1c26b39586#ht_793wt_1099[/quote]
Quote:


> DFI Lanparty, does boot, but powers on straight away when power is supplied to board.


So it thinks it's an AT board. Lol


----------



## samshnne

Just handed over my socket 939 rig to the gf.

DFI Lanparty SLI-DR
Opteron 180 stock
2x1gb ocz platinum edition @ 2-2-2-5
500gb sata
8800gt zalman edition

used to hit over 10k on 3dmark06.

I dont remember many of these socket 939 members hitting 3.4ghz. But I do remember beating them all in 3dmark scores for socket 939.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samshnne*
> 
> Just handed over my socket 939 rig to the gf.
> 
> DFI Lanparty SLI-DR
> Opteron 180 stock
> 2x1gb ocz platinum edition @ 2-2-2-5
> 500gb sata
> 8800gt zalman edition
> 
> used to hit over 10k on 3dmark06.
> 
> I dont remember many of these socket 939 members hitting 3.4ghz. But I do remember beating them all in 3dmark scores for socket 939.


I was at 3.37GHz with my 165. I also ran as high as 8800GT SLI on mine (not that it mattered).


----------



## samshnne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> I was at 3.37GHz with my 165. I also ran as high as 8800GT SLI on mine (not that it mattered).


But it never passed a 3dmark06 run? Been on this topic for years. Never saw one socket 939 on this thread get over 10k. Just claims.

Ohh, before I'm called a hypocrite.

3dmark.com/3dm06/12579874


----------



## ny_driver

3729.61 mhz with an Opty154, and 3650.2 with a 152, 3504 with a 148, 3542 with a 146, 3466 with a 4200+, 3532 with a 4000+ and I still have them all except the 4200+........don't make me buy a good video card!









I have a nice FX-60 too, but can't seem to find my cpu score.


----------



## samshnne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ny_driver*
> 
> 3729.61 mhz with an Opty154, and 3650.2 with a 152, 3504 with a 148, 3542 with a 146, 3466 with a 4200+, 3532 with a 4000+ and I still have them all except the 4200+........don't make me buy a good video card!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a nice FX-60 too, but can't seem to find my cpu score.


hitting a peak cpu frequency doesnt mean it will complete or perform well in 3dmark06.

I came here to overclock for performance. Not just burn up my hardware.


----------



## ny_driver

lol.....you might want to step it up from s939 then.


----------



## blooder11181

here my "new" 939 rig
asus a8n-sli
athlon 64 3200+ venice 939
2x1gb ddr400
the rest is from my sig rig

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2377528

playing mw3 less than 35fps 1280x1024 high.


----------



## samshnne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ny_driver*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol.....you might want to step it up from s939 then.


Obviously you are trolling and not reading my posts.

I have upgraded and gave my s939 to my gf.

Still would love to see any of you 3.4ghz claimers post a 3dmark06 benchmark or ANY benchmark showing how unstable those overclocks were.

Still havent seen anyone here post a score even close to 11k on a s939.

All your overclocking claims. Great. 1.65vcore. Great. Performance proof? Zero.

Let me know when you get that video card.


----------



## samshnne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blooder11181*
> 
> here my "new" 939 rig
> asus a8n-sli
> athlon 64 3200+ venice 939
> 2x1gb ddr400
> the rest is from my sig rig
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2377528
> playing mw3 less than 35fps 1280x1024 high.


who so high on the vcore? 1.4v seems a little high to be stock settings


----------



## blooder11181

cool and quiet is disable.


----------



## samshnne

i see. i read online 1.35 and 1.4v are stock. mostly the 1.4v for duel cores. Im pretty sure I always ran mine at 1.375 up to 2.75ghz. hmmm

I never pushed it much over 1.5v


----------



## ny_driver

Sorry for trolling....I'm not going back and reading all of your 9 posts.









I used to post here all the time, so don't give me any lip.









I mostly have only benched 2D because it's easier. Besides, going for a couple more FPS in video games means nothing to me.

Just curious though.....have you looked @ HWBot to see what the record is? You might be surprised.

Looks like the top 28 submissions with an FX-60 are all obove 11,000 points.

#1 by my boy Hondacity

http://hwbot.org/submission/2259720_hondacity_3dmark06_radeon_hd_7970_14183_marks


----------



## Badwrench

Hey guys, kinda late to the game, but can I join?

Asus A8N -sli premium
Athlon64 X2 4600+
Tuniq Tower 120
2x1gb Corsair 400
2x512 Kingston 400
EVGA 6800GT in sli
Lepa 500w psu (sleeved)
Antec P180 case
WinXP SP3 32bit
80gb WD ide (have a 250gb seagate 7200rpm sata that I am putting in)

Any secrets to overclocking this thing? I am getting up to 218fsb @ 1.45v and getting system hangups. Any recommended settings to start with? Would I be better off removing the pair of kingston sticks and just running the corsiars in dual channel?


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench*
> 
> Hey guys, kinda late to the game, but can I join?
> Asus A8N -sli premium
> Athlon64 X2 4600+
> Tuniq Tower 120
> 2x1gb Corsair 400
> 2x512 Kingston 400
> EVGA 6800GT in sli
> Lepa 500w psu (sleeved)
> Antec P180 case
> WinXP SP3 32bit
> 80gb WD ide (have a 250gb seagate 7200rpm sata that I am putting in)
> Any secrets to overclocking this thing? I am getting up to 218fsb @ 1.45v and getting system hangups. Any recommended settings to start with? Would I be better off removing the pair of kingston sticks and just running the corsiars in dual channel?


DFI LanParty will allow more vcore and adjustments for higher overclocking, but not necessary unless you are actually running sub-zero cooling.
The # of adjustments available in BIOS is still better though. May need to loosen the memory up some to stop the errors......or more vcore which I am not reccomending unless you have good cooling. With water 1.55vcore should be ok, but watch the temps....try to keep it under 30c.


----------



## samshnne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ny_driver*
> 
> Sorry for trolling....I'm not going back and reading all of your 9 posts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used to post here all the time, so don't give me any lip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I mostly have only benched 2D because it's easier. Besides, going for a couple more FPS in video games means nothing to me.
> Just curious though.....have you looked @ HWBot to see what the record is? You might be surprised.
> Looks like the top 28 submissions with an FX-60 are all obove 11,000 points.
> #1 by my boy Hondacity
> http://hwbot.org/submission/2259720_hondacity_3dmark06_radeon_hd_7970_14183_marks


Well I know you have been here. Which is why Im waiting for YOU to post results.

By the way.. your boy.. not a valid 3dmark06 submission

"CPU information missing"

Its also blank from the 3dMark06 screen. And his internet was disconnected. lol

I'd still love to see anyone on THIS THREAD get over even 10k.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samshnne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ny_driver*
> 
> Sorry for trolling....I'm not going back and reading all of your 9 posts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used to post here all the time, so don't give me any lip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I mostly have only benched 2D because it's easier. Besides, going for a couple more FPS in video games means nothing to me.
> Just curious though.....have you looked @ HWBot to see what the record is? You might be surprised.
> Looks like the top 28 submissions with an FX-60 are all obove 11,000 points.
> #1 by my boy Hondacity
> http://hwbot.org/submission/2259720_hondacity_3dmark06_radeon_hd_7970_14183_marks
> 
> 
> 
> Well I know you have been here. Which is why Im waiting for YOU to post results.
> 
> By the way.. your boy.. not a valid 3dmark06 submission
> 
> "CPU information missing"
> 
> Its also blank from the 3dMark06 screen. And his internet was disconnected. lol
> 
> I'd still love to see anyone on THIS THREAD get over even 10k.
Click to expand...

I got over 10k in 3DMark06 EASY on mine.....







3.1GHz Opty 165, and 8800GT, 8800GTS 512, 8800GT SLI, 9600GT SLI...heck I almost beat 10k with 8600's in SLI. It wasn't that hard really.

I'm sorry I can't replicate this, as I've sold that equipment years ago though.


----------



## Kittencake

the kitty requests permission to join the 939 club ^_^ i owned 2 939 3800+'s and a I had a 3200 + at one point







but unfortunaly the 939 boards suffered a horrible fate so now they cpu's just just in a package now


----------



## pioneerisloud

Oh, and for proof, this is the best I've got. I had to dig to find these screenshots, but this was my old main system for the longest time. If you don't believe my scores, just ask ANYONE here that remembers when this club was kicking.....

8600GTS's in SLI (almost broke 10k):









Single 8800GTS 512:









Both were with my Opty at a measely 3.0GHz, it pulled 3.15 stable.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> I got over 10k in 3DMark06 EASY on mine.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3.1GHz Opty 165, and 8800GT, 8800GTS 512, 8800GT SLI, 9600GT SLI...heck I almost beat 10k with 8600's in SLI. It wasn't that hard really.
> I'm sorry I can't replicate this, as I've sold that equipment years ago though.


Still have my stuff and although I'm not running it ATM, I could set it up.... Once I get things squared away here with the new home and all.
That's gonna take some time to get done so don't hold your breath over it, I only got web service a few hours ago here and using the wife's PC to post with. I've yet to get my machine hooked up since I have some cabling/routing to do yet through some walls and the attic to get it all done.









Yeah, I'll give it a shot sooner or later...


----------



## samshnne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Oh, and for proof, this is the best I've got. I had to dig to find these screenshots, but this was my old main system for the longest time. If you don't believe my scores, just ask ANYONE here that remembers when this club was kicking.....
> 8600GTS's in SLI (almost broke 10k):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Single 8800GTS 512:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both were with my Opty at a measely 3.0GHz, it pulled 3.15 stable.


nice stuff! finally some benchmarks!

I love the smell of hot plastic. booting to desktop and posting these high cpu clocks doesnt impress me as much as loading a system on 3dmark. mmmm hot case temps


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samshnne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Oh, and for proof, this is the best I've got. I had to dig to find these screenshots, but this was my old main system for the longest time. If you don't believe my scores, just ask ANYONE here that remembers when this club was kicking.....
> 8600GTS's in SLI (almost broke 10k):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Single 8800GTS 512:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both were with my Opty at a measely 3.0GHz, it pulled 3.15 stable.
> 
> 
> 
> nice stuff! finally some benchmarks!
> 
> I love the smell of hot plastic. booting to desktop and posting these high cpu clocks doesnt impress me as much as loading a system on 3dmark. mmmm hot case temps
Click to expand...

Dude, my Opty was STABLE with Prime95 for 24 hours at 3.15GHz on my DFI board. My Asus board (in those benchmarks) couldn't pass 333 FSB stable.







I could've probably gotten 3.2-3.25 or so stable had I found a board that could scale the FSB high enough. I know my RAM could do it (they did 575 stable).


----------



## Blatsz32

i Still have a 64 FX-60..it was such an awesome chip. The 939 mobos aren't cheap which bums me out cause I want to get it going again.


----------



## ny_driver

Check out the other 27 submissions above 11,000 (w/FX-60 only) then and quit trying to argue....I'm just giving facts









Hey Pio thanks for chiming in.







Good to see you.

How much do you want for your 939 chips Kittencake? I could go for a couple 3800+


----------



## Kittencake

*taps on the screen to see if anyone doesn't mind a kitty troll to join*


----------



## ny_driver

You are supposed to have a working 939 system intact in order to join the club Kittencake.

I'll buy the cpus though. PM me a price shipped to 13460 NY USA if you want to sell.

Thanks, Dave


----------



## Kittencake

actually its in the process of being rebuilt i have an oc member who sold me a 939 board to replace my dead one so i can get my 3800+ back up and running it cause I want it as a media server


----------



## pioneerisloud

Thread cleaned.....

Keep it civil guys or I will have to start handing out infractions.

Sam, you are more than welcome to join the 939 club, just post a CPUz validation with your user name as the one that submitted it. If you want to show 3DMark scores, then please show the score with CPUz (two tabs one showing CPU one showing memory), and a GPUz tab showing the GPU, along with your score. The validation screens honestly mean nothing, since you didn't even use a screenname on it, and it shows your processor clock to be at 0MHz.

Also, please remember that Socket 939 is legacy hardware these days. Not all of us still own the equipment, but that doesn't mean that we don't have extensive knowledge of it. I ran my Opty rig from 2006 or so, till 2011. So some of us don't really own the equipment anymore, but that doesn't mean we didn't spend years with it and fine tuning. I personally had probably 30 Socket 939 boards pass through my hands and at LEAST that many chips.


----------



## samshnne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Thread cleaned.....
> Keep it civil guys or I will have to start handing out infractions.
> Sam, you are more than welcome to join the 939 club, just post a CPUz validation with your user name as the one that submitted it. If you want to show 3DMark scores, then please show the score with CPUz (two tabs one showing CPU one showing memory), and a GPUz tab showing the GPU, along with your score. The validation screens honestly mean nothing, since you didn't even use a screenname on it, and it shows your processor clock to be at 0MHz.


What?

I'll upload my cpuz.

My 3Dmark06 score was legit. The software didnt post my clock on the website.. not my fault since this is a known issue. Unlike the 14k the other person posted, mine was confirmed and legit through 3dmark.

If you want to be technical.. only other benchmark I saw was not legit, and the other was a screenshot only.

Askin me why 3dmark06 didnt post my core speed is like saying all CPU-z must show vcore..

By the way.. my username is on the results.. we proved that a couple pages back. I even told you that in the email...

I dont know why you would say my score means nothing.. when your friend posted a score 3dmark wont even accept.

"Your result has the following problem(s) and will not be shown for example on leaderboards: • Processor is not recognized (What is this?)
• Graphics driver is not approved (What is this?)"

"shooting down any benchmarks that proved against you"

I didnt shoot it down.. 3dmark did.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samshnne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Thread cleaned.....
> Keep it civil guys or I will have to start handing out infractions.
> Sam, you are more than welcome to join the 939 club, just post a CPUz validation with your user name as the one that submitted it. If you want to show 3DMark scores, then please show the score with CPUz (two tabs one showing CPU one showing memory), and a GPUz tab showing the GPU, along with your score. The validation screens honestly mean nothing, since you didn't even use a screenname on it, and it shows your processor clock to be at 0MHz.
> 
> 
> 
> What?
> 
> I'll upload my cpuz.
> 
> My 3Dmark06 score was legit. The software didnt post my clock on the website.. not my fault since this is a known issue. Unlike the 14k the other person posted, mine was confirmed and legit through 3dmark.
> 
> If you want to be technical.. only other benchmark I saw was not legit, and the other was a screenshot only.
> 
> Askin me why 3dmark06 didnt post my core speed is like saying all CPU-z must show vcore..
> 
> By the way.. my username is on the results.. we proved that a couple pages back. I even told you that in the email...
Click to expand...

Please, just try to keep things civil. That goes to everybody here.









I would like you to know though, that most of us here usually only posted screenshots of 06. If I still had that machine I would absolutely be MORE than happy to have a bench off with you. I really would. I love that sort of thing. Closest thing I have though is an x2 6000 on AM2, so that's not quite the same.

But when we used to hold competitions here for overclocking and 3DMark runs and stuff, we always required a screenshot, as a screenshot can show a LOT more than the link can. Since with a screenshot, you can catch CPUz memory, CPUz CPU, GPUz, OCN user name, the score....everything. It's a lot more handy than giving a link that shows the overall score and none of the settings used to get that score. So that's why the only results I have are screenshots....because that's what we used when we held competitions.


----------



## samshnne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Also, please remember that Socket 939 is legacy hardware these days. Not all of us still own the equipment, but that doesn't mean that we don't have extensive knowledge of it. I ran my Opty rig from 2006 or so, till 2011. So some of us don't really own the equipment anymore, but that doesn't mean we didn't spend years with it and fine tuning. I personally had probably 30 Socket 939 boards pass through my hands and at LEAST that many chips.


Totally understandable. Which is why I had to post on here.

I see all these claims with no proof. Overclocks so high, newer members feel overwhelmed with the high overclock suggestions and false stories.

When I was here years ago asking for 3dmark06 results, I got the same stories and run around.

I really think the honest benchmarks, systems, and results should be preserved with proof and not exaggerated with nonsense claims that make people feel inferior.

That'd be like me saying I got my old pentium 1 to 5ghz.. but since its dead, I cant prove it. So let me attack you for calling me out on a thread of friends.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samshnne*
> 
> What?
> I'll upload my cpuz.
> 
> My 3Dmark06 score was legit. The software didnt post my clock on the website.. not my fault since this is a known issue. Unlike the 14k the other person posted, mine was confirmed and legit through 3dmark.
> If you want to be technical.. only other benchmark I saw was not legit, and the other was a screenshot only.
> Askin me why 3dmark06 didnt post my core speed is like saying all CPU-z must show vcore..
> By the way.. my username is on the results.. we proved that a couple pages back. I even told you that in the email...
> I dont know why you would say my score means nothing.. when your friend posted a score 3dmark wont even accept.
> "Your result has the following problem(s) and will not be shown for example on leaderboards: • Processor is not recognized (What is this?)
> • Graphics driver is not approved (What is this?)"
> "shooting down any benchmarks that proved against you"
> I didnt shoot it down.. 3dmark did.


Gotta go with you on that.
Had alot of the same stuff happen when I did some 3D runs earlier (A few months ago) and it also showed 0 MHz, ect and the drivers used were part of the issue, my problem in particular was it said "Drivers not recognized" or something like that.
Something we've all gotta deal with regardless.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samshnne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Also, please remember that Socket 939 is legacy hardware these days. Not all of us still own the equipment, but that doesn't mean that we don't have extensive knowledge of it. I ran my Opty rig from 2006 or so, till 2011. So some of us don't really own the equipment anymore, but that doesn't mean we didn't spend years with it and fine tuning. I personally had probably 30 Socket 939 boards pass through my hands and at LEAST that many chips.
> 
> 
> 
> Totally understandable. Which is why I had to post on here.
> 
> I see all these claims with no proof. Overclocks so high, newer members feel overwhelmed with the high overclock suggestions and false stories.
> 
> When I was here years ago asking for 3dmark06 results, I got the same stories and run around.
> 
> I really think the honest benchmarks, systems, and results should be preserved with proof and not exaggerated with nonsense claims that make people feel inferior.
> 
> That'd be like me saying I got my old pentium 1 to 5ghz.. but since its dead, I cant prove it. So let me attack you for calling me out on a thread of friends.
Click to expand...

Some people have great chips, like my Opty was. Some people, like ny and Kryton...they use, lets put this nicely, "exotic" cooling methods to get benchmark results. So their results honestly aren't out of the norm, I've seen them myself years ago. If I knew where the thread ended up from our last competition I would gladly link it to you to show you that they're not lying. They're just not mentioning what cooling methods they used.....

To be perfectly hoenst, with my experience (on air), most Toledo / Denmark dual cores could pull off somewhere between 2.8-3.0GHz stable (some more, some less). Most Manchester duallies pulled 2.4-2.6GHz or so. The single cores I honestly never paid attention to, but my Winchesters all did 2.5-2.6.

But that doesn't mean that when they were kept COLD that they couldn't go higher. My original Manny could do 2.5GHz stable (prime95 for 24 hours) using 1.50v (remember that max safe is 1.65v for these chips). However when I gave it chilled air, I got it up to 2.80GHz prime stable, and 3.05GHz suicide run stable. That again, goes to show you what temperatures can do to it.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Some people have great chips, like my Opty was. Some people, like ny and Kryton...they use, lets put this nicely, "exotic" cooling methods to get benchmark results. So their results honestly aren't out of the norm, I've seen them myself years ago. If I knew where the thread ended up from our last competition I would gladly link it to you to show you that they're not lying. They're just not mentioning what cooling methods they used.....
> To be perfectly hoenst, with my experience (on air), most Toledo / Denmark dual cores could pull off somewhere between 2.8-3.0GHz stable (some more, some less). Most Manchester duallies pulled 2.4-2.6GHz or so. The single cores I honestly never paid attention to, but my Winchesters all did 2.5-2.6.
> But that doesn't mean that when they were kept COLD that they couldn't go higher. My original Manny could do 2.5GHz stable (prime95 for 24 hours) using 1.50v (remember that max safe is 1.65v for these chips). However when I gave it chilled air, I got it up to 2.80GHz prime stable, and 3.05GHz suicide run stable. That again, goes to show you what temperatures can do to it.


Actually every 939 result I've ever posted up was on H2O but it was COLD H2O as in iced down.









I've yet to go further with better cooling methods for a 939 but I will give it a shot one day.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Some people have great chips, like my Opty was. Some people, like ny and Kryton...they use, lets put this nicely, "exotic" cooling methods to get benchmark results. So their results honestly aren't out of the norm, I've seen them myself years ago. If I knew where the thread ended up from our last competition I would gladly link it to you to show you that they're not lying. They're just not mentioning what cooling methods they used.....
> To be perfectly hoenst, with my experience (on air), most Toledo / Denmark dual cores could pull off somewhere between 2.8-3.0GHz stable (some more, some less). Most Manchester duallies pulled 2.4-2.6GHz or so. The single cores I honestly never paid attention to, but my Winchesters all did 2.5-2.6.
> But that doesn't mean that when they were kept COLD that they couldn't go higher. My original Manny could do 2.5GHz stable (prime95 for 24 hours) using 1.50v (remember that max safe is 1.65v for these chips). However when I gave it chilled air, I got it up to 2.80GHz prime stable, and 3.05GHz suicide run stable. That again, goes to show you what temperatures can do to it.
> 
> 
> 
> Actually every 939 result I've ever posted up was on H2O but it was COLD H2O as in iced down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've yet to go further with better cooling methods for a 939 but I will give it a shot one day.
Click to expand...

Yeah, all of my results were on my Xigmatek S1283, usually room temp, and usually 24/7 stable prime. I don't like benching often with suicide clocks. I got my 3.37GHz CPUz validation with chilled air though (-12*F ambients).


----------



## samshnne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Some people have great chips, like my Opty was. Some people, like ny and Kryton...they use, lets put this nicely, "exotic" cooling methods to get benchmark results. So their results honestly aren't out of the norm, I've seen them myself years ago. If I knew where the thread ended up from our last competition I would gladly link it to you to show you that they're not lying. They're just not mentioning what cooling methods they used.....
> To be perfectly hoenst, with my experience (on air), most Toledo / Denmark dual cores could pull off somewhere between 2.8-3.0GHz stable (some more, some less). Most Manchester duallies pulled 2.4-2.6GHz or so. The single cores I honestly never paid attention to, but my Winchesters all did 2.5-2.6.
> But that doesn't mean that when they were kept COLD that they couldn't go higher. My original Manny could do 2.5GHz stable (prime95 for 24 hours) using 1.50v (remember that max safe is 1.65v for these chips). However when I gave it chilled air, I got it up to 2.80GHz prime stable, and 3.05GHz suicide run stable. That again, goes to show you what temperatures can do to it.


Holy crap.. 1.65v?

I found out I was running mine at [email protected]

Lower the multi to 11x, set fsb to 250.

500mhz ram
2.75ghz cpu
sli 8800gt

I was getting 3ghz on 1.47v.. wonder what my boot limit is


----------



## cssorkinman

Tried it again..... mild overclock , room for improvement 3dmark.com/3dm06/16677346


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samshnne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Some people have great chips, like my Opty was. Some people, like ny and Kryton...they use, lets put this nicely, "exotic" cooling methods to get benchmark results. So their results honestly aren't out of the norm, I've seen them myself years ago. If I knew where the thread ended up from our last competition I would gladly link it to you to show you that they're not lying. They're just not mentioning what cooling methods they used.....
> To be perfectly hoenst, with my experience (on air), most Toledo / Denmark dual cores could pull off somewhere between 2.8-3.0GHz stable (some more, some less). Most Manchester duallies pulled 2.4-2.6GHz or so. The single cores I honestly never paid attention to, but my Winchesters all did 2.5-2.6.
> But that doesn't mean that when they were kept COLD that they couldn't go higher. My original Manny could do 2.5GHz stable (prime95 for 24 hours) using 1.50v (remember that max safe is 1.65v for these chips). However when I gave it chilled air, I got it up to 2.80GHz prime stable, and 3.05GHz suicide run stable. That again, goes to show you what temperatures can do to it.
> 
> 
> 
> Holy crap.. 1.65v?
> 
> I found out I was running mine at [email protected]
> 
> Lower the multi to 11x, set fsb to 250.
> 
> 500mhz ram
> 2.75ghz cpu
> sli 8800gt
> 
> I was getting 3ghz on 1.47v.. wonder what my boot limit is
Click to expand...

If you check out the wiki:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Socket_939

Socket 939 has STOCK voltages up to 1.55v. So yeah, overclocked up to 1.65v was considered "safe". The biggest thing was keeping it cool at those volts. The cooler you can keep it, the further it'll scale usually. Also, what I personally noticed was that with a higher FSB speed, even with the same (or close) RAM speed, and the same CPU speed, it was actually benching higher. Still not entirely sure why....but that's what I had experienced with mine.


----------



## samshnne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Tried it again..... mild overclock , room for improvement 3dmark.com/3dm06/16677346


Pretty nice so far









What do you have the fsb at? I see 2.540 ghz but is the ram at 400mhz?

whats the vcore at also?

does that msi 7125 have bios overclocking capabilities or are you using software? my msi 7184 was software only.


----------



## cssorkinman

It has nice bios overclocking features.... but i was using msi's core center to do the overclock.
If i was going to get serious i would drop in some 550 rated ram ( had it up to 620) and play with the FSB some more
.i'm a little afraid to push this old board, last time i did some heavy oc'in in bios - it didnt want to come back to life right away.
I must say, that evga 9800gt akimbo is an overclocking champ... just move the sliders in afterburner to the right and double click 06








222 and 8.3% over vid


----------



## Badwrench

Just got my 939 rig back together - modded the case (cutouts for cpu retainer, cutout fan grills, paint, sleeving). Here is my stock settings. What temps are these chips supposed to be at. Seems a little warm to me. I have a new tower cooler on the way (Tunic Tower 120), so until that gets here, no OC.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Those temperatures seem about right. That's a beast of a 939 rig though. Replace that Manny with an Opty and you'd be all set for some 3GHz action.


----------



## cssorkinman

Beautiful rig Badwrench


----------



## Kittencake

its sexy ^_^


----------



## cdoublejj

Asus A8N32-SLI Deluxe, lost time and date as well as OC, tryingto OC again but, this time with out half of everything on auto. So far i found this to be the most effective method...


Pro Tip: Do this untill bloody and or unconscious

I've read some threads like this ...
http://www.overclock.net/t/261326/a8n32-sli-deluxe-overclocking

I set the K8-NB (HT link?) to 4x and set ram "limit" to 133, "T" to 2T, PCIe t0 105, it did really freaking weird stuff like upping the CPU speeds then as i raised the FSB the CPU speed would go up then down.









I think the words i want to type at this point are of a violent aggressive nature, I don't think i have ever had case where there were too many bios options or where too many bios options made me ANGRY. I think the part that makes me angry is EVERY setting has some sort of proprietary name rather then the terms we are used to using like "HT link".

Usually i feel over whelmed when dealing with memory timings on any bios cause i never know which is which or what order but, i feel this way with whole freaking bios on this board. At least this time i remembered the memory hole for more than 3gb of ram.

/rant ???


----------



## pioneerisloud

@cdoublejj:
Sounds like you need to go and buy a replacement CMOS battery.







Take your original to any local jeweler shop (Wal Mart even), and have them match it for you. It should only be like $1-2 at most. If it keeps forgetting settings and what not, its time to replace the CMOS. Especially considering the age.


----------



## Kryton

Yes, a bad CMOS battery will make it do some crazy stuff.
Finding one is really easy; Wal-Mart, Target, CVS, Walgreens ect should have one and it's a CR 2032 battery you'd want to find.


----------



## Badwrench

Thanks everyone, I am having fun with it. As cdoublejj said, it is kind of annoying that everything in the bios has is own name assigned by Asus rather that what it actually is. I am getting through it though. So far I have the multi down to 11 and the fsb to 230 for 2530mhz and my memory one ratio down (since I am only playing with 333mhz ddr) for a speed of 149mhz or roughly ddr300. Significantly better 3dmark scores







Will push much harder once my cooler arrives. Current temps top out at 57C with the stock cooler under prime.

Oh, added an oldschool Creative Audigy 2sz - circa 02







Actually sounds pretty good. Also, finished up my paint. All hardware in the case is a light teal color. Wish I had a decent camera so you could see it.


----------



## blooder11181

i have my a64 3200+ venice e6 2.7ghz stable using stock cooler

asus a8n sli
2x1gb + 2x512mb
gt520 1gbddr3

the voltage is 1,55v (is this to good or not?)
mem is 333mhz
pci express is 100mhz


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> @cdoublejj:
> Sounds like you need to go and buy a replacement CMOS battery.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take your original to any local jeweler shop (Wal Mart even), and have them match it for you. It should only be like $1-2 at most. If it keeps forgetting settings and what not, its time to replace the CMOS. Especially considering the age.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> Yes, a bad CMOS battery will make it do some crazy stuff.
> Finding one is really easy; Wal-Mart, Target, CVS, Walgreens ect should have one and it's a CR 2032 battery you'd want to find.


battery if fine it was unplugged for a very long to time fora PSU RMA. every thing went back to stock, the problem is the ungodly amounts of oddly named bios options.

I needs some helps OCing this thing.


----------



## Kittencake

would a bad cmos battery cause a system to bsod ?


----------



## Kalistoval

yes a bad cmos battery will cause alot of trouble get a new 1 size 2030


----------



## Kittencake

so my board might now be dead it wouldn't read the ide drives and kept bsod specially trying to install windows


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kittencake*
> 
> so my board might now be dead it wouldn't read the ide drives and kept bsod specially trying to install windows


Can you get into the bios before you try to install windows? Confirm that the drives are not being identified there. I was having an issue with my A8N as the previous owner had been using it in Raid, so the bios would identify the drive, but the install would fail. The raid function on the A8N is a seperate part of the settings.


----------



## Kittencake

it wasn't even detecting the drives in bios that was the weird part


----------



## ny_driver

Just stopped in to show some of my s939 achievements..................









This is where it all began for me.









Ahhhhhhhh............

cpu scores.jpg 323k .jpg file


----------



## SwishaMane

Havent been here in awhile... still running a 3800 x 2 @ 2.4ghz, watercooled, on my vmodded A8N-E... evga 8800gtx, 2x1GB Corsair plats, beast little rig in my Antec 902


----------



## ny_driver

Good to see you Swisha









I still have a box of good cpus, 2 sets of BH-5, 2 Experts, and a brand new Ultra-D.....plus a Corsair TX850 to power things.

Ohh, and the chiller table taking up way too much space in my garage. No time for that anymore though......only a few hundred wasted for a bunch of nice scores.

Most of the scores listed were using the chiller with slightly sub-zero temps, aside from obviously the 965BE and 1090T.

The FX-60 however liked ~-38C max IIRC.........so I had wayyyyyy too much LN2 for the amount of benching energy and patience I had.










All I need now is my F1 and my 30 liter.....if I ever have any time.









EDIT: if only a cpu could put out 150 horsepower...........


----------



## N2Gaming

I still have a couple of boxes full of 939 stuffzers. I prolly should have sold it long ago but am thinking I may be able to get enough $$$ for a new GTX 680 if I start selling off all my older 939 gear along w/some of my newer gear.

What do you guys think a DFI NF4 SLI-DR Expert would fetch just the board?

What do you guys think a DFI NF4 SLI-DR complete w/all original boxes & accessories would fetch?

Oh what about a kit of OCZ 3200 Platinum 2x1GB and another kit of Crucial Ballistix DDR 500 2x1GB?

Just curious if all this stuff would be worth selling.


----------



## ny_driver

Don't you have any cpus N2?
Maybe $60-100 for the board, and I can't say on the memory...I got 2 x512 Corsair BH-5 for I think $40 a year or 2 ago. They bench @ 2-2-2-4-1T.
Yes it was a good deal.


----------



## N2Gaming

Oh yeah I have a naked Venice 3500+ & an Opty 180 I bought new at Tiger Direct for 2 bills but I dropped it before I ever put it in a board. So needless to say the pins are a little jagged and not so easy to get into the slot. The 180 works like a dream and all but I'm not willing to sell it to any one for way less than I paid and have it get ruined and returned for a total loss on my part.

I also have a DFI NF4 Expert Venus in the box but the board was abused and cracked by the previous owner.


----------



## ny_driver

How much for the Venus, assuming it works?

And how much will you take for the 180....what stepping code?

EDIT: I mighth be able to fix it......I fixed an Expert that I scratched near the cpu socket.


----------



## N2Gaming

I never tried the board so I don't even know if it'll boot to bios. I was always to chicken to fry my ram, cpu & gpu to try it.

Opty is not for sale









Edit: the opty is really hard to get into the slot. I have to lean it at an agle " where it had like 15+ pins get bent into an S shape " and wiggle the locking pin back and forth several times to get it to drop into the slot.







I don't know the stepping atm it's packed away in the garage behind a big pile of boxes and other garage junk.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ny_driver*
> 
> 
> Just stopped in to show some of my s939 achievements..................
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where it all began for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ahhhhhhhh............
> 
> cpu scores.jpg 323k .jpg file


Very nice clocks NY


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Very nice clocks NY


Thanks brother! Nice 965 clock.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*
> 
> I never tried the board so I don't even know if it'll boot to bios. I was always to chicken to fry my ram, cpu & gpu to try it.
> Opty is not for sale
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: the opty is really hard to get into the slot. I have to lean it at an agle " where it had like 15+ pins get bent into an S shape " and wiggle the locking pin back and forth several times to get it to drop into the slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know the stepping atm it's packed away in the garage behind a big pile of boxes and other garage junk.


So pm me a reasonable price on the board, like $50.......I'm not scared to try it out.
If it works then I'll send you another $50.
If not I lose.

Let me get the 180, too.
What are you saving it for?


----------



## N2Gaming

i saw a boat load of 180's on fleebay today









i'll accept your proposal on the venus. I'll pull it out tomorrow as i'm about out the door to catch some live tunes


----------



## ny_driver

Enjoy the music!
I can send you a USPS money order Monday, or it'll have to wait until I get home and transfer some funds towards the end of the week.
I'm not in a big hurry.
Send me an address.


----------



## SwishaMane

Wow, a Venus that got abused and destroyed? UGH, I would LOVE one in good condition... Pics of the dmg'd board?


----------



## N2Gaming

IIRC I posted pics of the Venus in here before but I'm not about to spend hours trying to find the post's

The caps on that board are what sets it apart from the Expert oh and the voltage control iirc. N2 goes to dig it out of the garage for pics


----------



## Hueristic

I just searched the thread and only got 4 hits for Venus and they were the last 4 from you guys? Weird


----------



## ny_driver

Yeah the Venus is no better than the Expert, I just want one.

I would also like to see some pictures of the potentially damaged board if not too much trouble, N2?

Thanks!

You can text them to 6073164971 or I can give you my email.

EDIT: THanks N2, and good to see you Hueristic!!


----------



## Hueristic

I remember when he got the board there were a bunch of pics. It looked ok to me. Might need some traces repaired but i don't think so.


----------



## 420Assassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Wow, a Venus that got abused and destroyed? UGH, I would LOVE one in good condition... Pics of the dmg'd board?


my buddy has a venus preety close to new condition physically nvr abused for overclocking but honored the lanparty name







dont think he would sell tho he loves his dfi lanparty collection has a few boards including the hybrid one

have some more pics of board if anyone wants them and could prob get some fresh ones would just have to pop by his place take some


----------



## cdoublejj

well i got a bios checksum error even though it has been plugged in the whole time, i think the new bios battery is failing.


----------



## SwishaMane

Man I want that venus. They made, what, 1000 of them,a nd they were sold out first day in 2005? lol


----------



## SwishaMane

Ok guys... Im about to vMod my evga 8800gtx, w/ Accelero cooler. It OCs decent on stock volts, but with the cooling, I wanna push it to beat my old personal 3dmark06 record on s939 w/ an 8800. Ill be using my ES for stable 3ghz CPU like old times, and I wanna use a different board, if ES will even boot on it. My old A8N-E is the only board out of 8 or so 939 mobos Ive tested, that will boot the ES. Also got 4x 1GB Corsair platinums to play with, one set CL2 one set CL3.

BUT, I found this...

DFI Infinity Ultra Rev. B s939

I know nothing about this board other then that. I cant test the board w/o a huge hassle of un-installing current 939 setup, and just dont have time for it. And last time I did was half azz and it didnt boot, but it tried. BIOS was corrupting graphically on screen, it was weird. Im thinking a new CMOS battery, new BIOS chip with updated flash, and new chipset cooler would help.

Does anyone in the club wanna test my DFI Infinity? My chipset cooler wont mount right, and I dont have a spare. I will acquire battery and BIOS before shipping if there is a trustworthy old friend here who wants to bench her for me. I have no spare CPU, but mebbe a 2 x 512MB kit.

Im trying to break 12.5k in 3dmark06, old record was 12.2. Real goal is 13k or 14k on 939,









EDIT: BTW, sata location is HORRIBLE for big GPUs... thinking to run an IDE if it works and i do go through hassle of switching out setups.


----------



## Kryton

I believe that's the Socket 939 version of an Socket 754 NF4X Infinity.
That one if it's any good should clock in similar fashion to what my NF4X does as long as you have a good chip in it.


----------



## SwishaMane

I got a new BIOS and CMOS battery coming for it, working on getting some NB cooling action, after that it can be correctly tested one last time, hopefully it works.


----------



## Badwrench

First dibs to you guys (if I feel that it's worth it)

http://www.overclock.net/t/1267748/bunch-of-939-era-stuff-complete-build


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench*
> 
> First dibs to you guys (if I feel that it's worth it)
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1267748/bunch-of-939-era-stuff-complete-build


If I had money I would be all over it. I really need 2 more rigs that can actually handle media playback, but sadly I have no money.







Good luck on getting it sold though.


----------



## SwishaMane

Sweet, Id give ya $25 for the CPU. Those 4600s are somewhat hard to find actually. Any way to get pic of CPU with clean IHS, aka, uninstalled


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Sweet, Id give ya $25 for the CPU. Those 4600s are somewhat hard to find actually. Any way to get pic of CPU with clean IHS, aka, uninstalled


Ask and you will recieve


----------



## Badwrench

Also, took a few beauty pics before she came apart:


----------



## SwishaMane

Nice, does the cooler work on AM3 by any chance? What kind of deal could i get on all three? The mobo, CPU and cooler?


----------



## ny_driver

Hey, just wondering if anyone has heard from the person that never sent me my prize?
I certainly have gotten no explanation and it's been what over a year....that was 2 winters ago.
I want my Opty 170.

Did I miss out on this years contest or is that not happening anymore?

Thanks, Dave

2nd dibs on the 4600+


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ny_driver*
> 
> Hey, just wondering if anyone has heard from the person that never sent me my prize?
> I certainly have gotten no explanation and it's been what over a year....that was 2 winters ago.
> I want my Opty 170.
> 
> Did I miss out on this years contest or is that not happening anymore?
> 
> Thanks, Dave
> 
> 2nd dibs on the 4600+


Joe never did get the prizes out?









No I haven't heard from him myself in probably well over a year. Last I heard, he was taking a break from OCN in general and focusing more on life in general. I've got him on Facebook, I'll see if I can prod at him if I ever see him online for you.

EDIT:
I just found him on my facebook, and I sent him a prod for you (and everyone else that had won prizes). I'll update as soon as I have something to update.


----------



## ny_driver

Thanks brother.









EDIT: if nothing happens, you'll have to hook me up with him on FB so I can prod him myself.

Everyone lives for FB.

http://www.facebook.com/david.klingman.7


----------



## 420Assassin

ya im still waiting on my vid card from contest.. kinda given up hope on getting it if still do would be killer.. but ya an update from him would be a nice thing even saying he cant do it


----------



## pioneerisloud

I'm very sorry guys.







I just kind of left him alone about it after he had told me it would be taken care of.

I do agree, even if he says he can't for whatever reason, at least some form of update is better than just leaving us all hanging.

And just so you all are aware, this type of behavior is NOT in Joe's character at all. Only thing I can think of, is that he simply forgot.


----------



## SwishaMane

Yeah, I want my RAMz too.


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Nice, does the cooler work on AM3 by any chance? What kind of deal could i get on all three? The mobo, CPU and cooler?


Yup, works on AM3. I actually had to use the stock K8 backing plate and screws with the Tuniq upper plate to mount the cooler on the 939 socket. Was plenty tight though. AM3 would mount better though as you could use the complete Tuniq mount.

As far as a combo, sure. Let me see if I can find a box that will fit it all in (and would be cheaper than shipping 2 separate packages).
PM incoming


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Sorry, contest winners. I really mucked things up.

I've already contacted Pio off-site, but I figured I should go public here with an apology as well.

The last year has been rough on me, and I've actually had to sell off the majority of my spare gear just to get some cash in pocket for necessities and expenses. I only have one S939 CPU left, a naked Opteron 170. I forget already who won what, but I do remember that the top prize was a CPU, the 2nd place prize was an HD 4870 with an aftermarket cooler, and I have a 2GB kit of DDR400 GSkills, if I'm not mistaken. I'll have to see what else I have as far as DDR RAM goes, but that's the only set I can recall that I still have.

If the contest winners still want your prizes PM me here or email me; as soon as I have the money for shipping, they'll be going out.

Again, my most sincere apologies for the huge mess. I'll make it right for you guys.


----------



## SwishaMane

Aww man, you sold my Mushkin RAM?







$500 cash prize in exchange? LOL


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Aww man, you sold my Mushkin RAM?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> $500 cash prize in exchange? LOL


LOL I wish, man.

I gotta check to see if I still have a set of those Mushkins. I honestly don't know. But if I do have it, it's yours.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Does this mean you're back to stay for a while Joe?


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Does this mean you're back to stay for a while Joe?


Seeing as how I'm pretty lousy with promises







, I make no promises.









I'm never too far away, though.


----------



## Kangae

Hey there! Been running a chip on S939 for the last 7 years, and interested in joining here! Unfortunately I don't have CPU Z since I'm on Linux, but will a screen shot of some terminal output be sufficient?

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y79/Kangae_Todoku/Screenshot.png


----------



## Sporadic E

Been away awhile but I have had this puppy up and running since 3/14/2006 and was using it up until about a month ago when I decided I wanted to play BF3 and Skyrim. Here is the link to the build.

2006 AMD Build

Here is the OC post but the CPU-z I had in the sig is long gone for some reason but I found a shot of the desktop. 3GHz on a 3700+ San Diego core.

3.0GHz
CPU-z 3GHz

My 3DMark scores from 2006. I used to have a top 30 computer back then.

3DMark Scores

Anyways this is now a computer for my 10 year old to use on the internet and playing some of my old games when he feels like it. We are gong to take it apart and clean it later this summer. Complete specs are in the sig. Man my 939 computer was a good machine. Those where the days when AMD was kicking Intel in the ass. Add me to the list if anyone still cares.

Es


----------



## 420Assassin

well joe i won the video card, if need i have no issues paying for shipping.. if it will help you out glad todo.. if you sold the vid card no worries.. hope ur doin good tho and life getting better for ya


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*
> 
> Sorry, contest winners. I really mucked things up.
> I've already contacted Pio off-site, but I figured I should go public here with an apology as well.
> The last year has been rough on me, and I've actually had to sell off the majority of my spare gear just to get some cash in pocket for necessities and expenses. I only have one S939 CPU left, a naked Opteron 170. I forget already who won what, but I do remember that the top prize was a CPU, the 2nd place prize was an HD 4870 with an aftermarket cooler, and I have a 2GB kit of DDR400 GSkills, if I'm not mistaken. I'll have to see what else I have as far as DDR RAM goes, but that's the only set I can recall that I still have.
> If the contest winners still want your prizes PM me here or email me; as soon as I have the money for shipping, they'll be going out.
> Again, my most sincere apologies for the huge mess. I'll make it right for you guys.


I believe NY Driver was the winner of the Opty 170 if memory serves.








You can PM him to comfirm that.


----------



## 420Assassin

here results from that contest looking for orig thread for it will take sec to find
orig thread link
http://www.overclock.net/t/873566/socket-939-winter-overclocking-contests/0_100

Contest #1: No hunny, you are always gorgeous!

420Assassin: Claimed! 1x HD4870 with Arctic Cooling Cooler
ny_driver: Declined any further prizes, as per his request.
nategr8ns: Claimed! 1x XFX 6200 256MB AGP card (delivered i was donor)

Contest #2: I've got balls of steel!

SINGLE CORES:

ny_driver: Claimed! 1x BNIB Opteron 170 LCB9E
Kryton: Claimed! 1x Athlon64 3200+ (delivered i was donor)
cssorkinman: Claimed! 1x Soundblaster Live! 5.1 PCI Sound Card (delivered i was donor)

DUAL CORES:

SwishaMane: Claimed! 1x Mushkin Redline DDR500 2x1GB (used but VERY healthy)
ny_driver: Declined any further prizes, as per his request.
Kryton: Claimed! 1x 5 port PCI USB 2.0 card (delivered i was donor)


----------



## eternalenergy311

So i just purchased an HD 5550 to test in my sig rig. Unfortunatly, its the gddr2(visiontek) version.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814129187

Does anyone have any opinions on this GPU running in a S939 rig. the market seemed fairly limited considering the PCI xpress 2.0 vs. 2.1 limitations, power consumption issues, and the fact that the CPU will ikely bottleneck most cards any faster anyway. I did consider a GTS 430 based chipset for a while but most reviews i read showed that AMD/ATI had better performance on this type of setup.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

To the folks to whom I owe stuff, please PM me your shipment info.







I'll be going out of town for the weekend, but I'm planning to ship stuff out next week.

Thanks, fellas! And sorry for the mess I made.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*
> 
> To the folks to whom I owe stuff, please PM me your shipment info.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be going out of town for the weekend, but I'm planning to ship stuff out next week.
> 
> Thanks, fellas! And sorry for the mess I made.


Wahoo! Too bad I wasn't a wiener.


----------



## ny_driver

Well this is a very nice surprise!

I just told the Expert and she got all excited.


----------



## 420Assassin

no worries joe on taking soo long.. i'm not stressing it things slip my mind and i have had tight months where cash is almost nothing coming in.. so i understand how can be..


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey TMJ good to see you still kickin and not 6ft under







Times are hard all around man. You always seemed to be a real stand up guy and I for one can appriciate all the great contributions you made in this thread that enabled me to take my overclocking to the next level... Keep your head up and your spirits high. We all go through tough times bro.


----------



## txtmstrjoe

Thanks, N2G.









To ny_d and 420A, your loot's going out either tomorrow or Thursday, depending on how knackered I am tonight after my bike ride. I haven't had contact with our RAM winner yet, though.


----------



## N2Gaming

You are welcome TMJ. LOL is that not the abriviation for Lockjaw or some kind of jawbone disorder









I just wanted to let you all know I'm selling some of my beloved 939 gear.

I have some one wanting to purchase the Expert that I just got to post at 10x350


----------



## Cyrious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*
> 
> You are welcome TMJ. LOL is that not the abriviation for Lockjaw or some kind of jawbone disorder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just wanted to let you all know I'm selling some of my beloved 939 gear.
> I have some one wanting to purchase the Expert that I just got to post at 10x350


I would love to purchase the lanparty board you have up so i can get my S939 backup rig off the crappy OEM board that it has been using since i got the thing, but im broke right now and still looking for a job. Right now im scraping the bottom of the barrel for a job at McDonalds, and if i get it i might grab it off you.

Anyways, GLWS


----------



## N2Gaming

Who knows Cyrious you may get that job and I may still have it. So if fate makes it happen that way then all is good if not then it's all still good.









Good Luck w/the Job,

N2G


----------



## Badwrench

Ok guys, time to sell off my 939 stuff, so giving you first dibs:

Check my sale threads.


----------



## The Duke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench*
> 
> Ok guys, time to sell off my 939 stuff, so giving you first dibs:
> Mobos:


HI
Please utilize a link to your Marketplace post as this section is not for posting items for sale. Furthermore, you may post a link in your signature if you so desire but please do maintain your MP thread and signature link(s).

Thank You

BTW, I still have my DFI SLI DR and multiple related goodies from the era


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Duke*
> 
> BTW, I still have my DFI SLI DR and multiple related goodies from the era


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Duke*
> 
> HI
> Please utilize a link to your Marketplace post as this section is not for posting items for sale. Furthermore, you may post a link in your signature if you so desire but please do maintain your MP thread and signature link(s).
> Thank You
> BTW, I still have my DFI SLI DR and multiple related goodies from the era


Sorry about that, post fixed up. Didn't realize.


----------



## Warrior1986

Rather than bumping my old thread, I'd rather just post it here and see if anyone is still around from back then. I saw The Duke posted 3 posts up so I know he is still around.









http://www.overclock.net/t/217600/s939-is-dead-my-10-000-3dmark06-score-says-otherwise/0_100

So it's been almost 5 years since that thread (good lord, 5 YEARS ALREADY?!?), and it's time to retire the old girl out to pasture as she's lived and worked a hard life. Probably will serve out the rest of her days as an internet machine for my mom. Here's what the replacement will be.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1273795/build-log-obelisk-of-fire-ice-matte-black-switch-810/0_100


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*
> 
> Thanks, N2G.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To ny_d and 420A, your loot's going out either tomorrow or Thursday, depending on how knackered I am tonight after my bike ride. I haven't had contact with our RAM winner yet, though.


Im not worried about the RAM. Its been a long time since I needed it, and you said you sold it, so its all good.







I need a working mobo and CPU combo I can match with some RAM and a cooler I got sitting here for a machine for my dad.


----------



## Kryton

Believe I'll get around to setting up one of the 939's I have before long just to do it.
This time I'll give it a go with DICE instead of H2O and see what happens. Already know one of my 4000+ chips and my 175 has a cold bug from previous testing - Just hoping my X2 4200 doesn't.


----------



## Kryton

I did get around to setting up my A8N32 with my 180 chip (On air) for now and letting it run.
Combined with a new SSD and one of my GTX 550's it's really snappy.


----------



## Cyrious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> I did get around to setting up my A8N32 with my 180 chip (On air) for now and letting it run.
> Combined with a new SSD and one of my GTX 550's it's really snappy.


Bottleneck much?

Also, run benchmarks


----------



## Kryton

I can do that.









Just don't count on anything crazy since it's on air.


----------



## Hueristic




----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyrious*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> I did get around to setting up my A8N32 with my 180 chip (On air) for now and letting it run.
> Combined with a new SSD and one of my GTX 550's it's really snappy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottleneck much?
> 
> Also, run benchmarks
Click to expand...

It's not THAT bad of a bottleneck assuming he overclocks. The GTX550 is about on par with a GTS 250 / GTX 260 or so (somewhere in that range), which those weren't held back by Opterons too terribly badly. Anything higher than that, absolutely would be held back though (and SLI as well). The SSD, that's handy no matter what machine you're on honestly. Even a 939 rig can benefit from an SSD.


----------



## Kryton

Did a Pi run with my 146 since the 180 was running a tad warm.
It's a dog of a chip for what it is and I'll try the other 146 I have to see how well it does. I'll also do some 3D benchies later to see how bad the 550 gets bottlenecked.



EDIT:
Popped in the Opty 175 since it tends to like OC'ing better than the 180 does and did a 3D Mark03 run with it and the 550.


Enjoy!


----------



## N2Gaming

I don't know what you are doing as I'm all sudz up but keep it coming Kryton



































All in a Hueristic style







I speak for my self and not for any one else but the style I carry in my emoticons is very Hue-ish regardless of popularity









Edit:

I just sold my DFI NF4 SLI DR Expert to another OCN member so hopefully that person will be showing up w/some crazy overclocks soon









Edit: should I bust out the NF4 SLI DR and the Opty 180 for old time sake before I sell er to some one that quite possibly don't frequent these parts?


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*
> 
> I don't know what you are doing as I'm all sudz up but keep it coming Kryton
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All in a Hueristic style
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I speak for my self and not for any one else but the style I carry in my emoticons is very Hue-ish regardless of popularity


Just for you N2, here's a first try with 3DMark 06, it can do more with better than air cooling and I'd need to set that up to get more from it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*
> 
> Edit:
> I just sold my DFI NF4 SLI DR Expert to another OCN member so hopefully that person will be showing up w/some crazy overclocks soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: should I bust out the NF4 SLI DR and the Opty 180 for old time sake before I sell er to some one that quite possibly don't frequent these parts?


Bust it out and let it fly..... Or you can sell it to me.








Seriously, I don't see why you woudn't keep it unless you really need the $$ for some reason.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Definitely keep it N2. Unless you want to sell it to me, then its okay to sell it.







You have absolutely no idea how badly I miss my Opty 165 and every single one of my 939 boards. I had probably 20-30 939 boards over the years. Each and every one of them had its own unique quirks.









I'm just saying, you may or may not regret selling your GOOD 939 equipment later on down the road.


----------



## N2Gaming

Well the Expert is already sold, shipped & gone over a week ago now. I got $70.00 for it. I still have another Expert that needs a couple of caps, the Venus that is dead and the SLI DR that works flawlessly.

Honestly I do need the money but not desperately for a shed I want to build in the back yard and possibly for another upgrade if I have enough funds left over after the shed is built.

Hmm No Hue comments.









The SLI DR is up for $100 if any one is seriouse about it. Complete w/all original accessories and boxes.


----------



## Sporadic E

Need some 939 stuff appraised. See link below please.

939 Stuff

Es


----------



## gonX

I did 3284 MHz on my 3700+ San Diego over 5 years ago. I might pull out the setup again some day and see if I can beat it, since I obviously won't be using the hardware any more








http://hwbot.org/submission/607513_gonx_cpu_frequency_athlon_64_3700_san_diego_3284_mhz


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey Kryton and the rest of you nuckleheads. I saw a Water Cooler for free today on CL and you all know exactly what I was stinking...







The fridge part was not working but never the less I'm sure it's an easy fix. Either way I put in a msg to the person gifting it for free to who ever would take it to see if it was still available for grabs.

My thoughts are that would make one heck of a cooler for a Huge Reservoir. I just want to







around w/it a little and make it screme like a little " add your own word here " CPU







and see what kind of stupid overclocks I could obtain.

I've also been thinking of getting an end mill like a Verticle CNC Bridgeport just so I can play around w/my own water cooling solutions and what ever little projects come up that I can fabricare from any free metal scraps I could obtain from variouse sources.









Any way what do you guys think about a Water Cooler Chiller Mod for an H2O loop?







,







or


----------



## Kryton

Should be fun for you to work with.

Nothing wrong with making your own stuff from the scraps others toss... Done that myself before with good results.


----------



## InVeNtOr

Has any figured out how to install a SSD? I can't get win 7 to load. I don't have an AHCI option in bios either. I did download the Microsoft program that changes the registry to allow AHCI.
I have: DFI NF4 Ultra-D, Opty 170, and its a Corsair Force GT 120GB.
When I try to load win7, it will actually say "loading windows files", finishes, then it looks like the normal windows boot screen. Then after that I have the normal Aero blue screen (stock background) and my mouse . Mouse works, just nothing else on the screen.
Is there some bios option I am missing?
I had the SSD installed and booted to my normal HD. Windows loaded some drivers for that SSD. I also see the SSD in my bios and in device manager, but not in the windows properties where I see my other HD's.
If anyone could help, I would greatly appreciate it!


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InVeNtOr*
> 
> Has any figured out how to install a SSD? I can't get win 7 to load. I don't have an AHCI option in bios either. I did download the Microsoft program that changes the registry to allow AHCI.
> I have: DFI NF4 Ultra-D, Opty 170, and its a Corsair Force GT 120GB.
> When I try to load win7, it will actually say "loading windows files", finishes, then it looks like the normal windows boot screen. Then after that I have the normal Aero blue screen (stock background) and my mouse . Mouse works, just nothing else on the screen.
> Is there some bios option I am missing?
> I had the SSD installed and booted to my normal HD. Windows loaded some drivers for that SSD. I also see the SSD in my bios and in device manager, but not in the windows properties where I see my other HD's.
> If anyone could help, I would greatly appreciate it!


i believe when you add a ssd for use as your main boot drive you should unplug the other hdd(s) during windows install. read this guide and post questions in the same thread further help . . .

http://www.overclock.net/t/1156654/seans-windows-7-install-optimization-guide-for-ssds-hdds


----------



## nategr8ns

Hey guys! Just fired up my old rig (Opty 170, Ultra-D) since I'm back at home in Maine for the summer. Using it to try and re-partition a borked drive I just got in Live Ubunutu. Unfortunately, I brought all my RAM (2x512mb of ValueSelect and 4x1GB of G.Skill HZ) to school with me, so I've only got a 256MB stick of PC2100







.

I forgot how slow this board boots... And it is SUPER finicky on detecting drives when I use both SATA and IDE... sheesh. DFI boards were always temperamental though...

I am thinking of selling the DFI board since I still have my MSI Neo4-f out in Seattle. I've seen some on eBay, but what do these boards _actually_ sell for?

Also, I only need one of my dual core Opterons. I think I will bring the 170 out west with me, compare, and sell off one of them.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*
> 
> Hey guys! Just fired up my old rig (Opty 170, Ultra-D) since I'm back at home in Maine for the summer. Using it to try and re-partition a borked drive I just got in Live Ubunutu. Unfortunately, I brought all my RAM (2x512mb of ValueSelect and 4x1GB of G.Skill HZ) to school with me, so I've only got a 256MB stick of PC2100
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I forgot how slow this board boots... And it is SUPER finicky on detecting drives when I use both SATA and IDE... sheesh. DFI boards were always temperamental though...
> I am thinking of selling the DFI board since I still have my MSI Neo4-f out in Seattle. I've seen some on eBay, but what do these boards _actually_ sell for?
> Also, I only need one of my dual core Opterons. I think I will bring the 170 out west with me, compare, and sell off one of them.


I'm just guessing but an average of $75 for that board sounds about right.
You'll see some go for less, some for more depending on the seller and how it goes, esp if it's an auction. As for the Opty's you may want to actually keep both if you plan on using your 939 stuff for sometime to come for whatever reason. Good 939 chips aren't exactly easy to find anymore and you have two, one obviously for a backup in case the other one runs into trouble.

BTW the single stick of PC 2100 sounds to me like the source of it's slow-boot problem.


----------



## InVeNtOr

Nope, I'm an idiot. I had my original drive disconnected, that wasn't the issue.
It was either these 2 options....
I either didn't wait long enough when it went to the "Aero" screen, or u need to reset your bios first.
I reset my bios, started it up, and it all worked like normal.
I now have win 7 on my SSD.


----------



## SwishaMane

Man, I need to get me a good ole DFI SLi-D... Got 4GB, 4x1GB Corsair plats just waiting, and a complete case with wc'ing just sitting here... SOMEONE DONATE ME ONE! ill trade my Asus A8N-E with 1.81vCore mod.


----------



## InVeNtOr

Just curious, but is there a DFI board (939 pin, of course), that actually supports 4GB of ram? My ultra-D will only go to 3.12. (Yes, I did all the normal procedures to check if its running right).
Also side question, is the opteron chip the best available? I looked up the 185, same specs as my 170, except its 100mhz over my OC. With 4gbs of ram installed, I can only get to 2.5ghz. With 2gbs, I got 2.7ghz. Its all air, and I'm a noob, so I consider it a win! Lol.
Would the best DFI board yield better "performance" than mine?
I'm really just seeing what I can upgrade cheap to keep my 939 kick'n butt!
Upgrades so far:
4GB ram. G.Skill ddr400 (my ddr500 black sticks went belly up and had to trade them in








EVGA GTX460 1GB
Corsair Force GT 120GB SSD. ,
changed out fans....
Replaced 6ea 80mm masscool and 2ea 120mm Antec for....
3ea 140mm Xigmatek 2ea 80mm Xigmatek
Of course had to re-mod my case to fit the 140mm fans.


----------



## DannyOcean

I have found the same issue on a DFI NF4 Ultra-D. With 4 sticks of 1GB G.Skill, only 3.2 available on a Win7 64 HP install.
There was a very late socket 939 Opteron release of a 190 clocked at 2.8GHz. Rare chip but headroom not much better than any other descent chip, I have a current rig with a Opteron 180 clocked at 2.8. Will run a bit over 3.1 with 1.55v under water but not 100% stable.

I have an DFI SLI-DR I want to check if it'll run 4GB but I'm going to guess it won't fully report 4GB. Also have an ASUS A8N but haven't tried 4GB in that either. Maybe later this week I'll get a chance to check. Got a nice FX-60 that runs 3.0+ that should do nicely.


----------



## pioneerisloud

My A8N32-SLI Deluxe ran 4GB of RAM just fine at DDR-466 with my Opty 165 at 3.0+GHz.


----------



## N2Gaming

All DFI 939 boards should run 4gb just fine. You must be using a x64 bit OS in order to see all 4GB's of ram


----------



## nategr8ns

DFI's also have a special setting for enabling 4GB of RAM. Its hidden somewhere in BIOS. It may have "4G" in the name IIRC.
Been there, done that







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> I'm just guessing but an average of $75 for that board sounds about right.
> You'll see some go for less, some for more depending on the seller and how it goes, esp if it's an auction. As for the Opty's you may want to actually keep both if you plan on using your 939 stuff for sometime to come for whatever reason. Good 939 chips aren't exactly easy to find anymore and you have two, one obviously for a backup in case the other one runs into trouble.
> BTW the single stick of PC 2100 sounds to me like the source of it's slow-boot problem.


Actually no, it was the SATA drive I was testing. The drive is broken and was taking forever for BIOS to [incorrectly] identify it.


----------



## InVeNtOr

Come on now, of course I'm running win 7 64 bit.
"Hidden setting"? Come, really? U have to be kidding.
I am also thinking of getting a PCI card to use sata 3, it will cost me about $14 (discount and rebate $). My windows score went from 5.1 to 7.1 with my SSD, but I know "windows score" means nothing. The entire rig seems to be working faster, but I honestly don't know.
Any opinions on the PCI card?


----------



## pioneerisloud

It won't be worth it, as a PCI card won't even utilize full SATA 2 bandwidth, let alone SATA 3.

Just use your native SATA controller, its ALWAYS the best option for an SSD. Even a good PCIe card is going to add too much latency for an SSD. If you want to utilize faster speeds out of your SSD, I'm sorry to say it...but you'll need to upgrade your entire platform. Putting a band aid like a PCI or PCIe card is only going to waste money towards the inevitable (and it won't help you anyway).


----------



## InVeNtOr

Ah, dang it! I was so hoping u wouldn't say that. I was really hoping it would work.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InVeNtOr*
> 
> Ah, dang it! I was so hoping u wouldn't say that. I was really hoping it would work.


It'd be like me using my Marvell ports on my 1155 motherboard. It technically WORKS, and its "technically" SATA 3, but my native SATA 2 ports are faster for an SSD...and my Marvell ports are on the motherboard too. Problem is, the Marvell ports run through the south bridge (same as your PCI lanes), so there's too much added latency. It completely negates the entire reason of an SSD.

Just use your native AMD ports, and enjoy. The benefits of an SSD really aren't the sequential speeds anyway, its the access times. And you can enjoy that even on a SATA 1 port, so long as its native.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InVeNtOr*
> 
> Come on now, of course I'm running win 7 64 bit.


How should I know you don't have all of your rig listed in your sig









DFI Ultra D
Opteron 170
4GB G.Skill
850XT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InVeNtOr*
> 
> "Hidden setting"? Come, really?


The hidden bios setting might say some thing like Memory Hole Remapping or something along those lines iirc. It's been a while since I played around in the DFI BIOS.


----------



## InVeNtOr

OK, u got me, I just got done upgrading and have been lazy.
I did contact DFI, they don't have the remapping feature. If there is a 939 board out there that's a better choice with more "options" I may jump on it.


----------



## StormX2

a Bit late to the game?

what was that Asus bored a few of the guys like back then

Asus A8N SLI something like that? 3200x or something, god the numbers and names are hard to remember


----------



## StormX2

also Im pretty sure I remember Pioneerisloud ran 4GB setup on an Asus board, and was even able to crank some decent speed out of the ram too.

I personally only Ran 2x1GB Corsaid Plats, and the DFI Board let me get even lower timings than advertised runing at 460ish mhz something to do with drive strength and some other jazzi never quite fully understood even back then,

Now its like im completely blank on the subject =(

sorry to say


----------



## N2Gaming

Storm the A8N32 SLI Deluxe was the board to have if you like Asus.

NVNTR try memory hole? don't call dfi







do the looking in the bios your self.

Edit: This thread may help you out.

http://www.howtofixcomputers.com/bb/ftopic171869.html

Oh and a Google search works wonders if you know how to use it see my example below









http://lmgtfy.com/?q=DFI+Ultra+D+only+sees+3.2GB+or+RAM

or even better yet









http://lmgtfy.com/?q=how+to+use+google+search+engine


----------



## StormX2

yep thats the asus which was pretty popular next to the DFI boards

I was running the DFI LanParty SLI-DR UT or something to that extent


----------



## N2Gaming

I actually have a DFI NF4 SLI - DR for sale in my sig


----------



## nategr8ns

Ahah, told ya. There's definitely an option on the DFI just for this 4GB issue. Now, the ASUS either didn't have a problem to begin with, or automatically fixed itself when 4GB of ram was inserted...

Either way, that DFI is sure a nifty board.


----------



## StormX2

damn you nate , im still struggling to get to get my overclocked account lol

btw nate

hows the old Opty doing with the GTX 285?

I never tested my old Opty setup with the 275 that i havem once i got the i7 going, there was just no going back =(

But My step father is keeping good care of her, sad though you know, really was such a damn good performing processor


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> damn you nate , im still struggling to get to get my overclocked account lol
> btw nate
> hows the old Opty doing with the GTX 285?
> I never tested my old Opty setup with the 275 that i havem once i got the i7 going, there was just no going back =(
> But My step father is keeping good care of her, sad though you know, really was such a damn good performing processor












It was great! Once in game the processor was more than enough. But navigating through Windows 7, Firefox/Chrome with webapps, general daily stuff, the processor was really hurting for more power.

I'm glad I got an i7 laptop though







.


----------



## StormX2

yah I wasnt able to keep up when I was playing newer MMO's they were actually utilizing cores mroe effectively, when I first built the i7 machine I still had my 8800GTS installed lol

the processor alone and 3gb ram at the time was all i needed for a masssssive improvement, It was shocking.

but the 8800 was limiting my ability to see hundreds of people on screan at once, so the 275 saved the day

But man I still miss the opty165

Do you have any idea how ******edly different overclocking is on this thing???

i still have not figured it out.


----------



## InVeNtOr

thanks for the info, but i did my part and searched around. my bios doesn't have any of those options. i also did check msconfig.exe and make sure the "max memory" was infact unchecked.
now, back to the boards....lol does the dfi sli dr you have, will it show 4gb of ram usable? should i just try and find that asus for sale? what's the price range for the asus? i'll look at your sli later, my break is over and i am typing as fast as i can!


----------



## StormX2

inventor

please use the rig builder, top right corner of your screen to build your sig rig like mine =)

So you say the Ultra-D that you had doesnt have this memory option?

I dont remember if mine did. I never had more than 2GB Ram in it


----------



## StormX2

lol funny Inventor

I think i found you ont he Gskill forum

where a user with your motherboard asked the same question, and ,

Under "Advanced chipset features", put "Memory hole for PCI MMIO" in "Enable", this will allow BIOS to recogize 4Gb of RAM

using all 4 dimms you may need to losen timing and maybe extra voltage


----------



## N2Gaming

^ This ^

I'm beginning to think this guy does not know how to research as he has already stated being lazy









My DFI NF4 SLI DR does show 4GB of ram when all 4 slots are populated as will your board. You just have to find the right solution in the bios settings


----------



## pioneerisloud

Okay, let me explain a few things here....

I've owned the following (that I can remember)
Abit AN8 32 SLI
Abit 16 laned crossfire board (forget model)
DFI NF4 SLI DR
DFI NF4 Ultra D
DFI CFX 3200
DFI NF3 board (forget model)
Asus A8N32-SLI Deluxe
Asus A8N SLI
Asus A8N (IIRC, was a generic featured board)
Asus A8R32 CFX Deluxe
MSI NF4 K8N Neo 4 SLI
MSI NF4 K8N Neo 4 (still own)
Generic Asus 939 board, think its Via (still own)

Every single one of these boards could use 4GB of RAM. My favorites were the Ultra D and the A8N32-SLI Deluxe. Those were my two best boards for overclocking my 165. Got the 165 to 3.1GHz stable on the A8N, and almost 3.4 suicide. The DFI was too finicky at high HTT speeds (I got an unlucky DFI).

Look for memory remap, memory map, memory hole...something along those lines in your BIOS and enable or disable it (I forget which).


----------



## N2Gaming

Pio pio pio,,, tisk tisk tisk ... You totally neglected to mention the *DFI NF4 SLI-DR Expert* and the *SLI-DR Expert Venus* which are two of the hottest or should I say bestest of the best 939 OC boards ever









It's just too bad with all the options they have in the bios it took a real surgeon to properly operate on one


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*
> 
> Pio pio pio,,, tisk tisk tisk ... You totally neglected to mention the *DFI NF4 SLI-DR Expert* and the *SLI-DR Expert Venus* which are two of the hottest or should I say bestest of the best 939 OC boards ever


I never owned an Expert.







Just the Ultra D and the SLI-DR (and a few others like I mentioned).

I listed the boards that I have owned personally.....all the ones that take 4GB of RAM properly.


----------



## N2Gaming

Ah ok well I was just pulling your chain ya know.







Yeah the Experts are really nice boards. I was able to do FSB 350 and POST w/out any issues.







I probably should not of sold that board but I needed the money for my Shed build. Besides I have another Expert that I could probably get going again by salvaging some of the caps from the Venus board.


----------



## InVeNtOr

holy frick'n cow!
i can't believe i kept missing that stupid option! you know i even contacted DFI tech and they told me that didn't have that option!
i wasn't being lazy, i really have been pulling my hair out trying to fix this!
i fixed my sig.
now, i really need to figure out what options in my bios i should have before i try to OC again. i'm not that good at it so, i don't think i'll improve too much, if any.
thanks again, sorry for it taking me so long......


----------



## N2Gaming

I think you are just a hard learner and don't pay much attention to detail. me and Storm both spelled it out for you as clear as day. You are dismissed Have fun w/your new found glory


----------



## pioneerisloud

So, I've got an x2 3800+ Manny and 3800+ Toledo coming!









Manny will go into my OEM HP board (Asus something) for kiddo to watch movies with. The Toledo will go into my MSI K8N Neo 4 with 4GB of DDR400.







Can't wait. I'm hoping for 2.8 out of the Toledo (and stock with Cool N Quiet on the Manny). Haven't figured out yet where the Toledo rig will go, as my TV is kinda dead at the moment. I'll figure something out though.


----------



## Cyrious

Guys do you know of any decent 939 mATX boards for overclocking? Not top of the line like the DFI boards that get thrown around here all the time, just something that will let me get my 3800+ x2 up to 2.5ghz or so, because i cant do it on my current board it being an OEM board (that also has a hard-wired 700MB memory hole that i cant get rid of even after trying 3 separate BIOSes from different OEMs)


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyrious*
> 
> Guys do you know of any decent 939 mATX boards for overclocking? Not top of the line like the DFI boards that get thrown around here all the time, just something that will let me get my 3800+ x2 up to 2.5ghz or so, because i cant do it on my current board it being an OEM board (that also has a hard-wired 700MB memory hole that i cant get rid of even after trying 3 separate BIOSes from different OEMs)


I believe there was a Biostar TForce board that was OKAY at best. There's also an ASRock 760G motherboard (might've been 780G I don't remember) floating around that was actually Socket 939 compatible (only 939).

Good luck finding one though. It's hard enough finding a good regular ATX 939 board.


----------



## StormX2

I dont see the point is building a small rig with mATX 939

they do produce considerable heat, the opty stock coolers were good, but id have heat issues when i get to the 2.9-3.0 ghz on an average day of gaming.

honestly even the lowest level dual cores of today will handle that performance and run cooler so im not sure the point of this


----------



## StormX2

Im actually really liking the AMD APU Offerings, they seem to do really for for various items at a low cost.

If I came into some money I think i would build an HTPC using an APU =)


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> Im actually really liking the AMD APU Offerings, they seem to do really for for various items at a low cost.
> 
> If I came into some money I think i would build an HTPC using an APU =)


My HTPC's consist of K8 duallies and lower end GPU's (like a 9800GT or HD4850).







Those plus an Opty stock cooler, they work like a dream.







I don't overclock them either, nor game on them (except really light stuff).


----------



## StormX2

Id like to just have something better than the PS3, its god aweful at surfing the web, and all videos from Youtube looks extremely terrible on the 42 inch.

Youtube often freezes my PS3 as well..

Me and the Wife usually watch funny videos before bed etc.

Recently, been watchign the Possible Only in Russia, Videos, so damn funny


----------



## FlawleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> Im actually really liking the AMD APU Offerings, they seem to do really for for various items at a low cost.
> If I came into some money I think i would build an HTPC using an APU =)


These are my thoughts exactly.I have quite a bit of older hardware I could piece together another desktop (6400+, Opteron 180, etc.) but I'd rather not have a standard tower in my living room next to my TV. I built a Sempron 140 system a couple years ago but have since traded it off. I kind of miss it now and with llano here it makes no sense not to use it for HTPC.


----------



## StormX2

Yah Now I dont know how the APU + another GPU thing works or if it works well, but from what ive seen the APU alone is no joke.

Granted Id Love to play my games on the TV, but not very practicle for me really.

I just want it for easy Video Streaming and maybe some cheapo Java / Flash games.

Too broke to do anything though lol, what i really need is a Laptop for work and play, thats where the APU is headed for me


----------



## truckerguy

The APU with 1 gpu dose Crossfire running the apu on BF3 looks like this


----------



## StormX2

yah I want a laptop with one so bad


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> MSI NF4 K8N Neo 4 (still own)


That's quite an impressive list Pio! What do you think of the MSI? That's the board I started with (and still own as well). Overclocking on it was much easier, but the board just didn't feel as good to me as my finnicky DFI. That's the board that randomly stopped giving me onboard audio for a few months, only to have it randomly start working again. Overclocking on it was painless and done with in a snap, though I'm sure the top end was hurt due to lack of customizable settings that helped DFIs out.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*
> 
> I think you are just a hard learner and don't pay much attention to detail. me and Storm both spelled it out for you as clear as day. You are dismissed Have fun w/your new found glory


Hey, I tried to help too! haha


----------



## StormX2

N2 was kind of mean a bout it though lol

I think the MSI Board I ran my old 3700+ on was MSI NF4 , not exaaaactly sure which one. Shipset fan died on it once and they sent me a MUCH nicer Shipset stap on piece ,

atleast for the 3700 overclocking was a breeze on that board. 2.8ghz right out of the box no problem. and i think that was the Processor I was able to hit 3.1 with, but not for long with stock air cooling....

it was a KABQE Stepping which was listed as one of the goldens =)

Cant for the life of me remember what Stepping my Opty 165 was, that old boy really loved low voltage


----------



## InVeNtOr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> Under "Advanced chipset features", put "Memory hole for PCI MMIO" in "Enable", this will allow BIOS to recogize 4Gb of RAM


as per:Merriam-Webster
Definition of "Help"
1: to give assistance or support to
2 : to make more pleasant or bearable : improve, relieve
3 : to be of use to : benefit b : to further the advancement of : promote
4 : to change for the better

i can't tell you how many people i asked for help in enabling 4GB of ram. i did google search, and yes i did almost find the right answer. when someone tells me "i think", "maybe", "should be" and then doesn't tell me what i am looking for, then they didn't help. telling me half the answer, and then say "i spelled it out for you" isn't spelling it out.
i can say, StormX did "spell" it out, and seconds later, the problem was solved. that *IS* helping. the problem was only solved after that quote, not before.

N2, thanks for NOT helping, NOT spelling it out, NOT "making it clear as day", and NOT solving my problem. as you put it.......
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*
> 
> You are dismissed


----------



## StormX2

ah, that was funny

I couldnt find the right picture to go with how much im laughing

No problem dude, I have not been very helpful Since the 939 days, as you can tell by my rep count haha

Any chance I can help Im glad to do so.


----------



## N2Gaming

Actually Nate you helped a lot by mentioning he needed a bios option to be enabled. I gave you links w/the exact info Storm gave you. All you had to do was read a few posts into the links I gave you. I may be mean but only when I get frustrated w/people. So you say I did nothing to help then so be it now where is that darn ignore button


----------



## InVeNtOr

when someone knows nothing of a sitution, you have to spoon feed them along. i re looked at those links. yes the first link (now that i know what i am looking for) had the exact bios option i needed to enable. but when i do a google search and i get something like "enable memory remapping" i won't know "memory hole" is correct. when someone says it "might be" something like "memory hole" and i see "memory hole for pci mmio" i am not going to look at it. i thought the "pci" had something to do with my GPU. again, this is not my hobby, check my bio, you will see i have 1 main hobby.
the other link had exactly half of the bios option.
the third link was you "showing" me how to do a google search.

if you "spelled" it out you would have done the exact same thing as StormX. i am just trying to tell you, if you are going to "help" someone it might be more helpfull to do that, then send a link. if you are going to go through the trouble to send me 3 links, why not just send the exact text i needed to fix the issue? it really came off as you being a jerk and a know-it-all. i am not accusing you of that, i am just saying, it was way more helpfull how StormX helped me.

why would you be frustrated with me? clearly this is something beyond my knowledge, clearly you are smarter than me in this subject, so me not understanding frustrated you? that seems harsh too. i came here to ask smarter people than me for help. sorry that all the information at the time didn't make sense to me. then again, i stress, 1 person literally spelled it out, and i was able to fix the issue. so don't you see that was helpful?

i'm not trying to start some "cyber war" but you have to admit what you said and how you said it, came off mean.


----------



## StormX2

ok ok lol no more of this N2 gets it, so do you.

I agree that N2's link to how to use google was in poor taste, but I did lol at it

not hard to make me lol at something though

But Inventor he is right to n extent, what i did was very easy and I was able to find the answer incredibly quick. In fact, the Answer that i found, was on the Forum that You posted in on the Gskill Forum. it was just a few more posts down from yours.

All I did was copy and paste that answer

I must admit though, ive got mad Search Engine Skills


----------



## pioneerisloud

N2, you didn't REALLY give him a ltgtfy link, did you?









Inventor, I'm glad you got the help you needed. I agree, not everybody signs up here at OCN because they want to be the best of the best. Sometimes people are here just because they have a problem and they don't know how to fix it. It happens.


----------



## N2Gaming

I'm not going to hold a persons hand. I gave sound advice, answered the questions to the problems and found the results before any one and I get dogged for it. Oh well guess my help is not appriciated any more so I'll just crawl into a cave and die


----------



## StormX2

want some cheese and crackers with that ?










btw, what the hell Pioneer, 28k posts?? Someones awefully busy


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> want some cheese and crackers with that ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw, what the hell Pioneer, 28k posts?? Someones awefully busy


I'm actually closer to 40k. They removed off topic posts from counting a year or two back.


----------



## StormX2

wait what do you mean

i dont remember off-topic counting toward post count ever

and you can find out how many posts youve made in off-topic

Im only about 2800 or so off-topic posts


----------



## BlackOmega

Hey fellas, been a long time. What's new and exciting in this neck of the woods?


----------



## cssorkinman

Well about the only 939 action i have had lately was this http://hwbot.org/submission/2303734_
for the memory comp on the bot.
fun fun fun


----------



## BlackOmega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Well about the only 939 action i have had lately was this http://hwbot.org/submission/2303734_
> for the memory comp on the bot.
> fun fun fun


Very nice man.









I sold off all of my 939 stuff so it's all just nostalgia now. At least I still have a couple of AMD's .......for now.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I've got a few 939 setups again.







Working on snatching another Opty and A8N32-SLI Deluxe actually.


----------



## BlackOmega

That's awesome Pio. I just saw someone selling an SLI-D (DR possibly), with a Zalman CNPS 9500 (I think), a dual core (the guy doesn't know what it is) and 4 sticks of RAM. I was thinking about buying it.







But I already have too much going on here right now.

If this tells ya anything


















Here's the latest rig I've put together:

(sorry for the crappy pics)


----------



## pioneerisloud

Good lord those processors!!!! I want that 3770k!!!


----------



## nategr8ns

Its like every processor auction on ebay I've bid on recently, you won







.

Hey Pio, if you're not set on that ASUS, I am selling my old motherboard right now.


----------



## StormX2

i loved my opty

Wish i still had her for my work room (really just a basement, easier to do work there when the kids arent in me ears lol)

I was using an awesome older Dell 1520 or something, with the Audio Controls and Front facing Speakers (I love this design, great for streaming anime)

But they made me bring it back.

I dont want to set up my Wifes PC (she doesnt use it) because the damn thing uses way more power than i need.
(Q9300, 900rofl wattPSU, 8GBDDR2, 2x 9800gt sli) a Stupid Lightshow too, colors and crap annoy me lol

But the only other option I have is the POS Junker that I put together from Freebies and Giveaways for a Hobo ive known a long time, but hes got no where to go with it

That one is only an E2200 and ati 4770

Im torn between Slow, and too much power lol


----------



## nategr8ns

OK first of all, the E2200 should be plenty fast. Also, there's no reason you can't just remove a graphics card and some ram from your wife's rig. If components don't "ask" for more power, the PSU doesn't draw as much from the wall either.


----------



## StormX2

duh of course I know the E2200 isnt a bad processor

I just wish i still have the Opty for this.

and she wont let me mess with her Rigs config even though she doesnt ever use it.

I just need to go ahead and sell it while its worth something -.-


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Well about the only 939 action i have had lately was this http://hwbot.org/submission/2303734_
> for the memory comp on the bot.
> fun fun fun


And you're still behind me and my Socket 754.








http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2222352

I'm about to do some more there (The comp) as well. As for my 939 stuff, I've tucked it away for now but I will get a working setup for watercooling completed soon in my benchshack and pull off some runs.
Can't wait for cold weather to arrive so I can see how well it's gonna work.


----------



## InVeNtOr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> Im torn between Slow, and too much power lol


"More Power! Arrr Arrr Arrr"

will she let you cut the led wires? sounds like from your last post she won't let you do nothing to it. but then, stuff breaks all the time and if some lights just happen to break......

any way of swapping out the psu between the two? (of course with out her knowing) lol.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> And you're still behind me and my Socket 754.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2222352


Sounds like someone is challenging me???? lol ( not that I'm much of a threat)
Unknown motherboard? Is it a trade secret or can you reveal what it was?

Nice score, but wow, we both have a ways to go to catch Rasparthe http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2466005


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

WOO HOO!!! Just purchased DuckieHo's old system and can't wait for it to get here.

If you know your overclocking history, this was a killer rig in 2006-2007.
Athlon X2 3800+ (Socket 939)
Thermalright XP-90 w/ Panaflo Fan
DFI LANParty UT nF4 SLI-DR Expert w/ original box!
Evercool VC-RE all-copper chipset heatsink
2x1GB Corsair DDR1-500 3-4-4-8
80GB Western Digital
Auzentech GMC R-2 Toast Case

Think this will be good enough to get me in the club?


----------



## StormX2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InVeNtOr*
> 
> "More Power! Arrr Arrr Arrr"
> will she let you cut the led wires? sounds like from your last post she won't let you do nothing to it. but then, stuff breaks all the time and if some lights just happen to break......
> any way of swapping out the psu between the two? (of course with out her knowing) lol.


its her baby lol, first PC She ever built.

I ended up setting it up, jhasnt been used for quite sometime though, the OS I think will need to be redone, it feels EXTREMELY Slow

And I dont mean because I come from an i7 with SSD, I mean its slower than the Dell 15** which is pretty old..

the Crap Dell Laptop booted up MUCH faster as well. unfortunately the laptop was a bit too old for decent STreaming Video quality.

I need to reload the OS, and see about overclocking this q9300

if I remember correctly, they were not good clockers..

her PC has 8GB of Ram though! I might figure out how to do something with thta, like a ramdisc maybe, never done that before


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z3r0_k00l75*
> 
> WOO HOO!!! Just purchased DuckieHo's old system and can't wait for it to get here.
> If you know your overclocking history, this was a killer rig in 2006-2007.
> Athlon X2 3800+ (Socket 939)
> Thermalright XP-90 w/ Panaflo Fan
> DFI LANParty UT nF4 SLI-DR Expert w/ original box!
> Evercool VC-RE all-copper chipset heatsink
> 2x1GB Corsair DDR1-500 3-4-4-8
> 80GB Western Digital
> Auzentech GMC R-2 Toast Case
> Think this will be good enough to get me in the club?


That was a good buy, hope you have fun with it


----------



## StormX2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z3r0_k00l75*
> 
> WOO HOO!!! Just purchased DuckieHo's old system and can't wait for it to get here.
> If you know your overclocking history, this was a killer rig in 2006-2007.
> Athlon X2 3800+ (Socket 939)
> Thermalright XP-90 w/ Panaflo Fan
> DFI LANParty UT nF4 SLI-DR Expert w/ original box!
> Evercool VC-RE all-copper chipset heatsink
> 2x1GB Corsair DDR1-500 3-4-4-8
> 80GB Western Digital
> Auzentech GMC R-2 Toast Case
> Think this will be good enough to get me in the club?


I do remember that rig, I remember contemplating the same air cooler for a while

But my Corsair ram out performed his when i was clocked at the 460ish MHZ, my Timings were very low
That Expert board though if you take some time you should be able to slowly lower every single value on the dram settings.
Drive Strength baby

I cant remember what Clocks he hit on that rig.

What GPU/s will you plan to run on it?


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> I do remember that rig, I remember contemplating the same air cooler for a while
> But my Corsair ram out performed his when i was clocked at the 460ish MHZ, my Timings were very low
> That Expert board though if you take some time you should be able to slowly lower every single value on the dram settings.
> Drive Strength baby
> I cant remember what Clocks he hit on that rig.
> What GPU/s will you plan to run on it?


I'm not really sure yet. It was kind of an impulse buy







For starters its going to have an Antec 350w psu, seagate 160gb sata2, samsung dvd burner and an old Gigabyte 8500 GT Turbo.


----------



## StormX2

I ran my old 939 with an 8800GTS 640mb , a goo dcombo for the type of games I played, mostly MMO's and it let me play DoD and CS Source very well with decent AA enabled. Chose the card for the higher memory bit interface and since it seemed to perform very well at 1680x1050 res

the GTX 275 was the perfect upgrade for me, an upgrade in every direction really. Makes the latest nVidia Cards hard to choose from,

I was hoping my next card, would be a 512bit interface with atleast 1GB of GDDR5, but I dont see that being in my affordable future lol

I still havnt tested this junker I found, a 939 board of some form, and a random 3800+ that I found, cant remember if i had a HS for that one or not, decided to play around with the e2200 junker and my wifes q9300 for the time being.

I need to sell off some of these machines... Left with less and less money after every rent check =(


----------



## TFL Replica

If you guys see any more spammers, just report them and move on.


----------



## StormX2

oo we got owned by the mod


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z3r0_k00l75*
> 
> WOO HOO!!! Just purchased DuckieHo's old system and can't wait for it to get here.
> 
> If you know your overclocking history, this was a killer rig in 2006-2007.
> Athlon X2 3800+ (Socket 939)
> Thermalright XP-90 w/ Panaflo Fan
> DFI LANParty UT nF4 SLI-DR Expert w/ original box!
> Evercool VC-RE all-copper chipset heatsink
> 2x1GB Corsair DDR1-500 3-4-4-8
> 80GB Western Digital
> Auzentech GMC R-2 Toast Case
> 
> Think this will be good enough to get me in the club?


I hate you.







I wanted that rig so badly, but I couldn't afford $70 at the time.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Sounds like someone is challenging me???? lol ( not that I'm much of a threat)
> Unknown motherboard? Is it a trade secret or can you reveal what it was?
> Nice score, but wow, we both have a ways to go to catch Rasparthe http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2466005


It's actually shown in the CPU-Z info.
It's a DFI NF4X Infinity MB with a 3700+ mobile.

Speaking of Rasparthe, that's definitely DDR2 territory with that kind of RAM speed but I'd bet his RAM was nice-n-cold too.


----------



## cssorkinman

I didn't recognize the model number , thanks Kryton


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> I hate you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted that rig so badly, but I couldn't afford $70 at the time.


ALL THAT WAS $70?? Wow, what a steal.


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*
> 
> ALL THAT WAS $70?? Wow, what a steal.


Actually, he was nice enough to let me have it all for $65







And yeah, I couldn't believe it was actually still there when I finally came up with the money. Figured someone had to have scooped it up by then.


----------



## StormX2

damn nice price, my Opty 165 rig sold for $200 =)

I kept saying, these are enthusiast items that could get more lol

but it was also My Step Dad so he owed me anyway


----------



## Edge Of Pain

I can finally join this club, I just need to go home in a couple of days to prove it with a CPUz validation. I got a Sempron 3000+ and hopefully the Athlon 64 x2 3800+ in one of my sig rigs is coming in the post.


----------



## toughacton

Hey Everyone! New here obviously, but I just wanted to say how much I've loved my 939 socket. I have run an Athlon 64 3200+ Venice 24/7 for the past 6 years and neither it or my motherboard (or any other component aside from case fans) have caused any problems. Aside from slowly becoming obsolete.







So to save some money and keep this great little comp going I got a 64 x2 4200 Manny off Ebay to upgrade it. And then i look and find out Diablo3 wants a 4400 minimum (I assume they mean a 2.3GHz AM2) So here I am crash coursing myself on overclocking. I have found out that my ASUS A8N-VM CSM micro ATX board is junk for overclocking. I can't change any voltage settings at all and the FSB max is 240







. I have been able to get a mild overclock to 2.4, but at 100% load I run at 60C which is right at case limit. So the main thing I'd like to know are what currently available Heatsink should I go for? I'd like to try for 2.6 GHz max that this board can do, but right now I'd melt my chip during stability testing I'm sure. I've attached my CPU-Z so I can join this illustrious group








http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2508923

This was stable for 1 hour on Prime95 kinda afraid to go longer since its running so hot.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Hey Everyone! New here obviously, but I just wanted to say how much I've loved my 939 socket. I have run an Athlon 64 3200+ Venice 24/7 for the past 6 years and neither it or my motherboard (or any other component aside from case fans) have caused any problems. Aside from slowly becoming obsolete.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So to save some money and keep this great little comp going I got a 64 x2 4200 Manny off Ebay to upgrade it. And then i look and find out Diablo3 wants a 4400 minimum (I assume they mean a 2.3GHz AM2) So here I am crash coursing myself on overclocking. I have found out that my ASUS A8N-VM CSM micro ATX board is junk for overclocking. I can't change any voltage settings at all and the FSB max is 240
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I have been able to get a mild overclock to 2.4, but at 100% load I run at 60C which is right at case limit. So the main thing I'd like to know are what currently available Heatsink should I go for? I'd like to try for 2.6 GHz max that this board can do, but right now I'd melt my chip during stability testing I'm sure. I've attached my CPU-Z so I can join this illustrious group
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2508923
> 
> This was stable for 1 hour on Prime95 kinda afraid to go longer since its running so hot.


To be perfectly honest, with a Manchester 2.5-2.6GHz is USUALLY where they'll top out stable wise. You can grab any aftermarket heatsink that works with AMD, they haven't changed the clip on mounting bracket since 754 days.

But yeah, I really wouldn't worry too terribly much about it, since you're very near the max that chip is going to pull stable anyway.


----------



## toughacton

Cool. Good to hear I can probably get to 2.6 stable once i get some better cooling. Since I'm on a mATX board i went with a CoolerMaster Hyper 101 (I have a spare fan for push/pull). I wanted a 212, but it just looked too big to fit my board. (Plus I still needed to get 2 120mm fans to replace the dead ones in my case) I want to get the CPU as fast as I can first, but was wondering if the 2 x 1G Corsair value select RAM was overclockable at all? Granted since I can't change my voltage I wouldn't be able to do much anyways other than FSB adjustments and timings. Anyone know if the timings can get any better on this stuff? Was just wondering.

I might just get addicted to this overclocking thing! It's a ton of fun


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

First the CM Hiper101 is doo-doo. I own one and it doesn't do much at all. Second I own some of that Corsair Value Select pc3200. Not very overclockable but I did manage to get the timings down to 2-3-3-5. With some luck hopefully you will hit that 2.6 goal. Good luck!


----------



## toughacton

Thanks! I can't imagine that the Hyper101 is gonna be any worse than the old stock cooler for my 3200. Maybe when I can get some real money saved up I'll get something nice I know will port over to a new AM3+ board build whenever I get around to doing it. Of course I set up S&M to run before I left for work today, so the whole thing coulda fried on me and its all moot anyways, but it survived P95 for an hour so hopefully I'll be good.


----------



## StormX2

When I was clocking my Opteron 165 I did have a pretty awesome Mobo,

but I used the stock opteron Cooler which incorporated HeatPipes into the standard HS Block style. WHich actually did very well at cooling.

My Max stable was only like 312 FSB but I pretty much ran her 24/7 at 2.7 or 2.8 ghz I dont really remember anymore. I think 300 fsb

But My Ram was also pretty golden too, the IC's were of a type that were highly looked for here =)

Somewhere in this thread are those details and the settings I had my Ram running at, and I remember some of these guys wondering how on earth I got them so low while still raising the mhz he heeee

On another note, i recently found a 3800x2 and I salvaged a tower with a 939 board and an unknown processor under teh HS. Dont have any DDR1 memory though so I have not booted the thing up..

Not sure what to do with it


----------



## pioneerisloud

StormX2:
I believe you had BH-5's.







I remember those beauties very well. My Corsair XMS did quite well too at DDR-567, 2.5-3-3-6 though.







And my Opteron lived its life between 2.8-3.1GHz or so (depending on the board I had it in). I never had it over 1.42v either.









I miss that rig so much.









And yes, I do agree on the stock cooler thing. The stock Opteron (939), or Phenom II, or Bulldozer coolers (all fit 939) are very VERY excellent coolers for being stock coolers. I was able to keep my Opteron at 3.0GHz with one of those no problems. Of course, my Xiggy was much better...but that stock Opty heatpipe cooler did just fine of a job.


----------



## Kryton

I recently "Found" my X2 chip after the move here and I want to setup a 939 for a few hot laps once I get some stuff sorted out here.
I still have a few sets of BH-5 here for whatever myself with some good TCCD sticks too - Should be great to bust out the Expert board again and see what I can do.

I'll also see what the 4000+ can muster while I'm at it.









Toughacton, checkout newegg for a few good chips, the San Diego 3700+ and 4000+ chips are good ones BUT that's only if you get the right one.
The chips that end with CF in it's model description will be the ones to get since those are the newer ones with the better steppings (CCBWE - LCBBE - LCB9E, the latter two are definitley good) if you pick one up. These might be refurbs but I've bought a couple of refurbed Cedar Mill (775 chips) that run good, got one in the wife's PC and it's doing great. These also ran well OC'ed too so I don't believe you have alot to worry about, esp for the price they currently have them for.


----------



## toughacton

I'll look into it. Though at this point I think I am more limited by my board than anything. I was stable today at my previous CPUZ with passing S&M, but I tried just a bit more and failed it and crashed during P95. I also had to clear CMOS once when i treid to Max it out at 240FSB. Wouldn't really post. Got into bios but it froze up on me there. Its either the junky A8N-VM CSM board or my RAM can't be overclocked. I've yet to try really taking a hit to RAM speed to see if that makes a difference. Just too tired to do any more tonight. Plus I've got some more case fans and a new heat sink on the way. Hopefully some copper pipes will help me out. Still a 2.4 overclock thats steady is better than nothing







Just wish it were as easy to overclock as my wifes new A6-3670k. That thing is soooo easy to get overclocks on. of course unlocked Multi will do that


----------



## StormX2

Ive never had a chip with unlocked multi, I was alway s a fanb of, get the base model, and make it the top model lol

Unfortunately I have yet to really figure out this damn i7 , BCLK and QPI its all so rediculous.

I want an APU so badly for a super small build so badly


----------



## toughacton

Well here i think is my highest bootable with this setup (at least without my new HSF)
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2510981
This isnt stable though. Got maybe 5 mins into Prime95 then failed. Would loosening up my RAM timings help any?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Well here i think is my highest bootable with this setup (at least without my new HSF)
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2510981
> This isnt stable though. Got maybe 5 mins into Prime95 then failed. Would loosening up my RAM timings help any?


You could try loosening to 3-3-3-8-2T and see if that helps any. I don't really think you'll need more voltage at this point (as of yet). I think its a RAM problem.

Whats your HT Link at? Looks like 4x, if so that's fine there.

You could also try increasing your NB voltage a notch. Seems you have a pretty low end board, you might be reaching the board's limitations as well at this point.


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> You could try loosening to 3-3-3-8-2T and see if that helps any. I don't really think you'll need more voltage at this point (as of yet). I think its a RAM problem.
> Whats your HT Link at? Looks like 4x, if so that's fine there.
> You could also try increasing your NB voltage a notch. Seems you have a pretty low end board, you might be reaching the board's limitations as well at this point.


I think you very well may be right. I tried 230FSB but windows never fully booted. I can unfortunately not change voltages on this board (it is pretty low end) Funny thing is I've seen it going for around $150 on ebay and such (maybe new, but still....)

Also I figured I'd post my 3200+ stepping that I had in this machine originally. I think its one of the later Venice ones, but I'm not sure.
Its NBBWE 0608GPMW Any idea if (on a good board) it would be a good OCer?

Oh yeah and will I ever make the club list? Or do I need to be on here longer?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> You could try loosening to 3-3-3-8-2T and see if that helps any. I don't really think you'll need more voltage at this point (as of yet). I think its a RAM problem.
> Whats your HT Link at? Looks like 4x, if so that's fine there.
> You could also try increasing your NB voltage a notch. Seems you have a pretty low end board, you might be reaching the board's limitations as well at this point.
> 
> 
> 
> I think you very well may be right. I tried 230FSB but windows never fully booted. I can unfortunately not change voltages on this board (it is pretty low end) Funny thing is I've seen it going for around $150 on ebay and such (maybe new, but still....)
> 
> Also I figured I'd post my 3200+ stepping that I had in this machine originally. I think its one of the later Venice ones, but I'm not sure.
> Its NBBWE 0608GPMW Any idea if (on a good board) it would be a good OCer?
> 
> Oh yeah and will I ever make the club list? Or do I need to be on here longer?
Click to expand...

Unfortunately, txtmstrjoe has been missing in action for quite a while. I don't think he'd mind if I added you though, so I'll dig up your CPUz link post, and add you myself.









The Venice...ehh, those were hit or miss. Most of my Venice chips topped out at 2.5-2.6GHz with 1.55v.


----------



## toughacton

Awesome!







Thanks! I've been scoping out better boards. Although honestly for a really decent 939 board I'd be halfway paid to a current board. Unless you know of any that don't go for any more 40 or 50 buck that are still good. I don't ever plan on making this a heavy gamer so It wouldn't need to be a SLI board or even full ATX just something with better/more Bios options. Yikes I'm budget upgrading my budget build from 6 years ago!







AT least aside from the new dual core I haven't bought anything that wouldn't go into a new rig.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Awesome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks! I've been scoping out better boards. Although honestly for a really decent 939 board I'd be halfway paid to a current board. Unless you know of any that don't go for more 40 or 50 buck that are still good. I don't ever plan on making this a heavy gamer so It wouldn't need to be a SLI board or even full ATX just something with better/more Bios options. Yikes I'm budget upgrading my budget build from 6 years ago!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AT least aside from the new dual core I haven't bought anything that wouldn't go into a new rig.


Unless you find a really good deal on a used board here at OCN, or on ebay (or any other tech site), I wouldn't bother. And that would ONLY be if you can find one for say $40 or less. It's just not worth the money to upgrade these rigs anymore.....UNLESS its for nostalgia purposes.

I just bought an Opteron 165 and a Gigabyte NF4 SLI board, and I have some spare GSkill HZ's laying around. But I've already got a couple more modern systems to play with, so I got those parts mostly to tinker with, and also for a solid HTPC / Server / number crunching rig of some kind (haven't made my mind up yet).


----------



## toughacton

Well I can hope







I'll keep trying to snipe something off ebay. Spent our comp budget on my wife's new A6-3670k rig ( I've got it mildly OCed to 3.1 without her knowing







) Partly why I have the GPU I do is so when I build my own rig i can xfire this with her APU.


----------



## DannyOcean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Well I can hope
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll keep trying to snipe something off ebay. Spent our comp budget on my wife's new A6-3670k rig ( I've got it mildly OCed to 3.1 without her knowing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) Partly why I have the GPU I do is so when I build my own rig i can xfire this with her APU.


Sometimes you can score some deals on ebay. Just last week I sold a Opty 180 for $40 that would run 2.9Ghz on stock volts, that was on water though but still impressed me. I've also sold two DFI NF4 boards and a Asus A8N Premium all for $40 each. Being that the Opty 180 is 2.4GHz to start with you could probably easily get 2.8 on your board. Granted its an aging socket but can do well for older games. If you can find someone selling an FX60 cheap, they have an unlocked multi but in my experience didn't overclock as high as my Opty's


----------



## toughacton

Well I'm 100% stable at 2.4

stress test.bmp 3600k .bmp file


Well for 7 hours at any rate. Although thats probably long enough. Thanks to everyone for advice thus far. I'll be adding the new heat sink whenever it gets here and try getting more out of this ol rig when i get the temps down a bit. Now to reap the rewards of my labor by playing old games like Heroes of might and magic 5 which actually run well now!









Who knows maybe I'll get a new board that can really put my chips through their paces.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> I just bought an Opteron 165 and a Gigabyte NF4 SLI board, and I have some spare GSkill HZ's laying around. But I've already got a couple more modern systems to play with, so I got those parts mostly to tinker with, and also for a solid HTPC / Server / number crunching rig of some kind (haven't made my mind up yet).










Nice!


----------



## StormX2

sorry to hear about your overclocking problem with the 939

Unfortunately I have to agree at this point, putting money into the 939 is purely wasted =(

outside of SOurce games and others in the 2005 era, your not going to get much use of these dual cores with DDR1 speeds.

Though If I still have my equipment, I might try to build a low profile PC to connect to the TV, but I wouldnt buy the parts to do so, if I had o buy the stuff id probobly go APU

really want a laptop with an APU personally


----------



## toughacton

Well I just went and formatted and upgraded to win 7 64 bit on my machine. It actually seems quite a bit faster, but that could just be that I don't have much in the way of programs anymore. Maybe that will stabilize things some and I'll be able to overclock better







Plus my new heatsink and case fans should get here today, so I'm hoping that helps as well. Also I'm S&M stable at 222FSB now







So its running at 2450MHz now. not that I can see any difference in 50 MHz mind you. I'll work it some more and get an updated validation for my highest stable OC later this evening. Cheers all and since I've kinda made this my pet project I'll foot the shipping cost of any old 939 free stuff that people want to get rid of.


----------



## StormX2

Tough I could attempt to locate my old BT HS for 939 ;p

No idea if the Mounting brackets are able to be found though.

Heavily suggest finding a Small Room Fan, one that you can push alot of air with, aim it so that the air i passing over the Chipset as well as the CPU areas.

This may actually help out the overclocking process and hopefully rule heat out as an issue or let you knwo that heat IS the issue.


----------



## toughacton

Well the new heatsink helped. down by 10 C on idle and load. Here is a OCCT 1 hr stable valid. Now time to see if i can push it








http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2514454


----------



## StormX2

PUUUUSH IT!

lol

Nothing Sadder than a 939 under 2.5 ghz


----------



## toughacton

ugg i just wish i could adjust my volts. I can boot in at 2.5 now but its not very stable, and my windows install got corrupted when i went for a suicide at 230 FSB. still doesnt work







ah well. at least its cooler now and not at 63C under load...


----------



## StormX2

wow, GJ! I have not corrupted an OS from too much overclocking since my Cyrex MMX processor , and I kept falling for it too, on really cold nights, I would blow air into the Case cooling it down big time, and punch that notch up

(back then the mobos only gave you the FSB of like 266, 333, 400) At least i think that was the settings, gods that was so long ago... but the notch above 400 = Reset CMOS and reinstall Windows lol

I must have done that 3 times before I realized it just was never going to happen.


----------



## toughacton

Yeah I think it got messed up when i forgot to turn off my autoupdates and it tried to update during an overnight stress test. oops







ive had lots of screen freezes in windows while stress testing anything over the 222 FSB, so lots of improper shutdowns may have led to the messed up windows as well.

anywho. I'll be back at it this evening assuming my windows recovered properly while ive been at work


----------



## toughacton

What I really need is a new board and better RAM







Here is my best stable clock. I know its only 1 FSB better, but hey its better







http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2517696 I think I've hit the best my chip can do at 1.4 Vcore or the best the chipset can do at stock volts. Really frustrating because it feels like there is more speed here, but I'm being limited by no volt control. I can post at up to about 228 and get into windows, but I freeze up pretty quickly in OCCT.
Few random other things. Is it common for boards to tack on an extra MHz to my set FSB? I Have mine set at 223 but it reads 224 in CPUZ. Also I've noticed that I can no longer soft reset. The reset button works, but if i restart through windows, things shut down (power is still on) but I don't repost and reboot windows. This has been happening since i flashed in my most recent BIOS. Is it possible that there is an option to turn on software restarts?


----------



## StormX2

in all honesty my good sir, what you really need is a new rig =(

939 builds are a hobby or for HTPC Rigs if you just so happen to have the hardware, these days atleast. Dual Core is dead for Gaming PC's as Almost everything is utilizing a minimum of 2 Cores, which will severely limit your gameplay at that point.

You should be able to build a cheap x4 phenom build, otherwise people have been selling 1366 Intel Rigs pretty cheaply. Some odd reason people are over pricing Socket 775 Quad Cores like the Q6600 and the Q9***'s as compare to price of an i7 920...

I really do hat esuggesting any of this honestly, but it would be a sin to suggest replacing mobo and ram and such. The really good 939 boards will probobly be expensive, same as Chips and the good Ram sticks too.


----------



## StormX2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlee7283*
> 
> anyone want an Athlon 3700+ 939 chip for 10 shipped?


Which Stepping is it?

ugg , I just rememberd I have that 939 PC at home, with an unknown chip under the hood, with an x2 3800 sitting upstairs waiting for a home.. but the only thing I dont have is a pair of DDR1 !!!

Thats just sad lol, and I think it is an AGP Board, not certain, if so, the only AGP Card I have is a ati x800, not really good for much outside of Source games I'd imagine.


----------



## toughacton

yeah i know for anything serious i'll just upgrade, but since i have no money for it at the moment I'm just playing around as a hobby i guess. Aside from the dual core I havent spent money on anything that couldn't be used in a current rig. and up until this 4200 i was still running a 3200 single core. so yeah







its an improvement. kinda wish i had another 2x1 Gig of memory though. despite the speed drop i would likely deal with.
I can always steal my wifes new rig if i want to game. though it still needs a better GPU if we want to do anything seriously graphics intensive.

And I'm AMD for life baby







I've had intels in the past and I just like rooting for the underdog. Plus I've never had the money/need for the best possible systems. AMD is just so much more cost effective right now. I can't wait for the newest set of FM2 and AM3+ chips to come out. I hope they start closing the gap a bit with intel.


----------



## StormX2

yah this was my first Intel build, I thoroughly loved AMD but at the time I had the money and Job to throw a littel cash around so I did and am pretty happy.

But I think AMD Will be focusing mroe on the APU Aspect more than the high end Desktop CPU's. But liek I was saying, AMD's Phenom x4's are still pretty solid much like Intels QUads from the DDR2 generation.

hell I really only went with the i7 for the hyperthreading, I felt that would come in handy for me someday down the road as my machine ages ;p

But the problem is still the same, you can spend good money on an old Mobo and Ram, probobly overpayed, for the age of the equipment, but the highest you ar elikely to get to will be 2.6ghz depending on that chip. I mean you can Always underclock your ram if it is being a limiter.

The old rule of thumb was change the Ratio so that the Ram overclocks highly, so you can find it's limits, then set the ram down to the lowest as well as the Chips Multiplier, so this way you can find out the boards max FSB.

From there forward you try to get everything to it's max and gently push voltage a little to go further. Personally, I dont like adding voltage, its why my Opteron 165 only saw 3.0ghz once ;p

Otherwise 2.7 was my daily with stock voltage, i think.. and 2.8 with a slight bump in voltage, but not alot. I still felt my settings for the 2.7 were optimal, stock Voltage, ram at 460mhz and pretty damn good timings with stock voltage as well.

but that was an Opteron god chip, on a DFI Lanparty SLI-DR with damn good ram . Its too bad, that build in any of these guys hands probobly would have seen some really big numbers. But I just dont like to push too hard


----------



## pioneerisloud

Storm, come back to me when your Opty 165 hits 3.0GHz undervolted (1.34v).







Then we'll talk.


----------



## StormX2

but thats what Im sayin, in someone elses hands, Il bet it topped that ;p

I lacked the cooling and the time to really tinker further


----------



## SwishaMane

Hey guys! Just picked up an Opty 180 for $32 shipped, CCBBE 0615! w00t! Wish me luck when i actually get it. Good stepping, watercooling in my 939 rig, 2 sets of 2 GB (2x1GB) Corsair plats at 2-3-3-8-1T, good ole 8800gtx w/ accelero, hoping to set a new personal 3dmark06 record like good ole days. Hope she hits 3 ghz+ like my ES does...


----------



## StormX2

Oo nice find!


----------



## CrazyMonkey

Guys just arrived here today:

DFI NF4 Lanparty Ultra D
Opty 175 @ Schythe Katana
4*512MB Geil One DDR 400
2xMSI 7950GT 512MB










Guess I'm gonna have some fun next days!


----------



## StormX2

interesting choice on the GPU's, those were very wonky cards, unless they were free you shoudl DEFINITELY have picke dup something else, Overclocked optys take a while before being a bottleneck


----------



## Darkstalker420

. Just noticed this thread. My old s939 rig is still doing duty for the nipper (it still plays MOST "console port" games that we are infested with now). He is enjoying Sleeping Dogs at the [email protected] 720p with most stuff on medium with a few things on high. It consists of:

X2 4400+ (DEFAULT 2.2ghz).
ASUS A8N SLI Deluxe (replaced NB fan with better READ quieter!! fan).
2gb OCZ Platinum PC3200 DDR.
GeForce 8800GT (680/1900).

Makes me smile when i have to clean the case out as i remember all the great games me and my bro have played on it. Still does windows work and the net as good as most things out now........ Prefer my X6 for encodes though! LMAO!! Still rock solid as it always has been (made it to 2750mhz with it but thought the "mini" NB fan was holding me back)....... Maybe try and work some magic on it AGAIN!! Great system.

Thanx.


----------



## toughacton

Well I've officially slipped over the edge







Just bought a Abit Fatal1ty AN8 board to do some better 939 OCing with







Its coming with a 3800+ venice core and (hopefully) some crucial ballistix RAM. I'm really pysched if it is ballistix. I'm kinda tired of using value RAM. Anyone have any experience with this board? Looks pretty comprehensive to me, but I'm still pretty new at this.


----------



## CrazyMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> interesting choice on the GPU's, those were very wonky cards, unless they were free you shoudl DEFINITELY have picke dup something else, Overclocked optys take a while before being a bottleneck


They were offered as the rest... So i couldn't deny it at all!!!


----------



## StormX2

well then, definitely powerful eitherway, just recomend keeping the case open and incorporating a small Room fan to keep things going. those cards were in love with artifacting, hell even my 7800gt was fickle

if you want the real experience of 939 though, you gotta get 8800GTX SLI ;p

or the Ultras


----------



## dlee7283

I wish there was a way i could get that 785g 939 board in the US

http://www.asrock.com/mb/overview.asp?Model=939A785GMH/128M

funny that there is a DDR3 478 board thats easy to get but this is impossible in the US


----------



## StormX2

and what exactly would be the point of that 785g?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> and what exactly would be the point of that 785g?


In my eyes, the onboard HD4200 graphics.







That paired with a nice little duallie 939 and a stock Opteron heatpipe cooler = really amazing HTPC setup. <3

Granted I kinda moved onto AM2 for mine, but only because I got them for dirt cheap and free.


----------



## StormX2

yahh that would make sense, but for me the idea of HTPC is about going superbly smaller. and i would definitely stillw ant a GPU in the build for gaming at 1080p on the tv.

the only way for me to suppliment that would be the latest AMD APU builds, those things actually seem to be viable for gaming on HTPC/Laptops


----------



## bird333

Mobo: DFI lanparty SLI-DR

Has anyone successfully gotten the second nvidia nic to work with linux (Centos specifically)? The problem seems to be (well at least part of the problem) that the forcedeth driver says that an "Invalid MAC address detected" and then forcedeth proceeds to assign a random MAC. The MAC address detected is 00:00:00:00:00:00. This also keeps adding lines to the '70-persistent-net.rules' file with a different interface name (i.e. eth2, eth3, etc.) and the created MAC address. Does anyone know how to fix this?

Also, does anyone have a Opteron 165 chip for the low low?


----------



## StormX2

ah, I know nothing about linux, Sorry=(

And honestly if I still had my 165, it would go on the Mid-High lol


----------



## bird333

User error on my part for the MAC address issue. I didn't know you had to specify the MAC address in the Genie Bios menu. I still can't get assigned an IP address. Does anyone know what the mac address boot rom setting is for on this mobo?


----------



## toughacton

Speaking of Opty 165s I scored one for $12 off ebay. As long as its working (which the guy says it is) I'll feel like I made off like a bandit!







So if you keep an eye out, you can maybe get one. Seems like there are quite a few for sale really, most were just more than i wanted to pay though. Also both it and my new Abit Fatal1ty mobo should be here today! I'm going to have me some fun this weekend! Just wish I had better RAM. I have a feeling my value series may hold back my max clock on the opty. Though I have tested them up to 224 HTT and 2T and they were stable. So maybe they will work. I got 2 x 512 Crucial Ballistix with the board, but I want to stick with a 64 bit OS and most games and whatnot want 2 Gigs anymore. Maybe i can find another 2 sticks of it to get back up to 2 GIGS but it seems like pc3200 ballistix is hard to find... Anyways, cheers 939ers! I'll post an update to my rig and CPU-Z once i get everything back together.


----------



## StormX2

weldone, SUper cheap opty!

remember though not all Opty are created equally

your also only using the Stock Cooler from the X2's? The Opteron Stock Cooler was Leagues ahead of it, and only reason why I was able to clock decently.

What was my stepping though..

CCBBE?? damn is it posted somewhere in here?

/me goes to look

the 3700 was KABQE a total Golden chip ;p

but the Opty 165 hmmm


----------



## toughacton

I got a CCBBE 0610







YAY! Supposed to be most consistent for 3 GHz! Unfortunately I have tried this Fatal1ty board and I just can't get it to power up. I wonder if I'm grounding it out or something. I get a really short fan spin then everything powers down again... sigh. I think the board is ok though. I'm testing the opty on my old board and got it straight to the max of 240 HTT no problems. Too bad the board locks out anything higher. Also my RAM is acting weird. No matter what I do it keeps putting some crazy 100 divider on it. I am mixing the ballistix on there just to see if it would work though and it looks like its fine ( which is probably why its being weird since the ballistix is 2 2 2 5 and i think its trying to make them all that low speed). Maybe if i switch their positions I can get it to give me a better divider but looser timings of the value RAM.


----------



## StormX2

FSB at 240 locks it up?

did you change the Ram Divider so that the RAM starts off really low setting?


----------



## toughacton

Its just a hard lock on the BIOS. It won't accept a value higher than 240. Its the stated max in the Manual.... bleh... ITs why I was trying to get a good board up and running. but this Abit is causing trouble. Either I have a scratch on the PCB (which it does) or I just don't have a good enough power supply. I have 2 12V rails and they are only at 18 amps. IT powered up when i had the opty in there, but I never got a signal to my monitor and I don't think it posted. Got stuck at some point. Might be I'm just short on power to run this board. Good excuse to try getting a new power supply (that will carry over into any new rig)







I am pleased that the new opty works fine. Its just a shame that its being gimped by a low max FSB

It's weird how I can run all the same components on my mATX but not on that board. I really hope that small scratch isn't fatal. I have hope though since I did get it to stay on when the opty was in there. Just looks like it will have to wait until I get money for a new PSU.


----------



## CrazyMonkey

Look at what I just found this wekend at my parents home:



I thought it was dead for 6years or so, but when I pluged it, it started...









Now just need to find an opty for it, but first I'm gonna play with this just for fun!!!


----------



## toughacton

Fun! Keep us posted on how it does







I've put in an order for a new PSU. My old one is even having problems with my other board now, so it looks like I'll be waiting a bit before doing any more OCing. Hopefully though a new stable higher watt and amp PSU will do wonders for my clocks. (and more importantly get my Abit board up and running).


----------



## StormX2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyMonkey*
> 
> Look at what I just found this wekend at my parents home:
> 
> I thought it was dead for 6years or so, but when I pluged it, it started...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just need to find an opty for it, but first I'm gonna play with this just for fun!!!


Nice one! Dont you love when Dead Hardware Decides to become Zombie?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Fun! Keep us posted on how it does
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've put in an order for a new PSU. My old one is even having problems with my other board now, so it looks like I'll be waiting a bit before doing any more OCing. Hopefully though a new stable higher watt and amp PSU will do wonders for my clocks. (and more importantly get my Abit board up and running).


I wish you the Best of luck!


----------



## kwint

Good deal on the opty. I have a 165 myself. I HAD it at 2.7 (300x9). But now its acting weird.

Having an issue right now though, won't load windows if bios settings are anything other than what it likes. If its not stock, it will not post at anything other than 230 fsb. This is a bad board? Possibly damaged something running it at 2.7 all day? Weird thing is that at 230, i have to put it into sleep and wake it back up to achieve the overclock. Windows loads at stock settings. HT at 4x, mem divider at 333.


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kwint*
> 
> Good deal on the opty. I have a 165 myself. I HAD it at 2.7 (300x9). But now its acting weird.
> Having an issue right now though, won't load windows if bios settings are anything other than what it likes. If its not stock, it will not post at anything other than 230 fsb. This is a bad board? Possibly damaged something running it at 2.7 all day? Weird thing is that at 230, i have to put it into sleep and wake it back up to achieve the overclock. Windows loads at stock settings. HT at 4x, mem divider at 333.


Hmm that is odd. First things that come to mind are maybe you need to clear CMOS if its been at that OC for a long time. Also the battery could be going bad on you, might try a fresh one and see if that does the trick. Can't say I've ever had anything that glitchy happen. Hopefully the Opty is ok! I've heard that if there is too much migration in a cpu you can lose your OC. It might still run at stock but not be able to handle being OC anymore. Hopefully its just a glitchy BIOS or old battery that is an easy fix though. Best of luck with it though! Gotta keep these 939s alive!


----------



## CrazyMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyMonkey*
> 
> Look at what I just found this wekend at my parents home:
> 
> I thought it was dead for 6years or so, but when I pluged it, it started...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just need to find an opty for it, but first I'm gonna play with this just for fun!!!


While i can't get my hands on an opty just found a 3200+ Venice to play with... Let's see what I can get from it...


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kwint*
> 
> Good deal on the opty. I have a 165 myself. I HAD it at 2.7 (300x9). But now its acting weird.
> Having an issue right now though, won't load windows if bios settings are anything other than what it likes. If its not stock, it will not post at anything other than 230 fsb. This is a bad board? Possibly damaged something running it at 2.7 all day? Weird thing is that at 230, i have to put it into sleep and wake it back up to achieve the overclock. Windows loads at stock settings. HT at 4x, mem divider at 333.


Are you sure that Cool & Quiet is disabled?


----------



## kwint

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*
> 
> Are you sure that Cool & Quiet is disabled?


Yep, everything I can disable, is disabled. Tried upping the vcore, nothing. There is a fatality abit board for sale on craigslist tho...


----------



## StormX2

it was Fatally wounded


----------



## clubber_lang

Hey guys....just wanted to join in on the fun here. My old trusty AMD XP2100 , Soyo dragon KT-333 computer got a new little PSU put into it last night ( old one went belly up about 5 - 6yrs ago )....and it's been sitting ever since. Have a few more things to do and then I'm going to try and fire it up. Should still work great , since I did a pretty fresh install of Win xp pro about a month before the psu went belly up. I have it set up in a raid config with 3 x 40GB WD HD's , and an 8600 GTS? Can't remember........and I can't remember how much ram I had in this thing.....maybe 1gb? It was my very first computer I help build back in like 2002-2003. The MB and cpu never gave me one problem all the years I ran it.....extremely solid.


----------



## StormX2

an x2100?

like from the old Socket A?


----------



## clubber_lang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> an x2100?
> like from the old Socket A?


YES!!....And I got her running! I'm actually on this old thing this very moment. I just posted a thread here in the AMD general forums......super pumped to have her running again. I don't know much about computers , so I'm trying to learn everything I can , but I replaced the PSU last night ( which went bad like 6yrs ago ).....and she fired right up!

So stoked right now! Going to try and put up a few pics of the old gal a little later tonight. I said this in the other thread I made......I forgot how loud this thing is! Think I will need to replace the CPU fan and upper 80mm blow hole fan.

A friend of mine help me build her in like 2002. I haven't ever built a computer by myself , so I was pretty proud I changed out the PSU on this thing. 3 HD's in raid , floppy drive , DVD drive ( which isn't working? ),......it's a cable management nightmare in this thing hehe. tell ya what thought.......that old Soyo Dragon KT-333 MB still looks as pretty as ever though!


----------



## CrazyMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clubber_lang*
> 
> YES!!....And I got her running! I'm actually on this old thing this very moment. I just posted a thread here in the AMD general forums......super pumped to have her running again. I don't know much about computers , so I'm trying to learn everything I can , but I replaced the PSU last night ( which went bad like 6yrs ago ).....and she fired right up!
> So stoked right now! Going to try and put up a few pics of the old gal a little later tonight. I said this in the other thread I made......I forgot how loud this thing is! Think I will need to replace the CPU fan and upper 80mm blow hole fan.
> A friend of mine help me build her in like 2002. I haven't ever built a computer by myself , so I was pretty proud I changed out the PSU on this thing. 3 HD's in raid , floppy drive , DVD drive ( which isn't working? ),......it's a cable management nightmare in this thing hehe. tell ya what thought.......that old Soyo Dragon KT-333 MB still looks as pretty as ever though!


But this is a skt939 discussion thread not sktA thread!!!









ontopic:

Just found a nice Opteron 170 for my rig!


----------



## clubber_lang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyMonkey*
> 
> But this is a skt939 discussion thread not sktA thread!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ontopic:
> Just found a nice Opteron 170 for my rig!


Well....and there ya go. I have no idea what I'm talking about HA! Is a AMD 4000 socket 939?


----------



## CrazyMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clubber_lang*
> 
> Well....and there ya go. I have no idea what I'm talking about HA! Is a AMD 4000 socket 939?


Do you even know what a socket is?!


----------



## clubber_lang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyMonkey*
> 
> Do you even know what a socket is?!


Yes. But I didn't know what my old 400a cpu was actually. I had thought it was 939 socket ( which I know was designed for the FX series and so forth ) but couldn't remember for sure what mine actually was. I "think" mine might be a 754.....but I'm not sure on that either. I'm so behind on a lot of this stuff.....trying to remember what I was learning to build 6 , 8 , 10yrs ago....on top of learning all this new stuff. I don't get to spend much time in the computer stuff....so I'm always behind.


----------



## StormX2

its ok

easy to forget this stuff

Socket A is also known as Socket 462 if not mistaken

I never used Socket 754 and dont even know of what processors ran on it to be honest

Anywhoo, this Club is for the Awesome Enmity that is Socket 939

Beastly Processors that Ran the Kingdom up until the Core2Duo's were released.

DDR1 PC's that easily beat out early DDR2 builds with aweosmely overclockable Processors.

Not sure if the amd 4000 you have is 939 or not though


----------



## clubber_lang

Yep....that's my confusion here. I was 99% sure that my AMD 4000+ was a 939 socket and by looking here >>> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_AMD_microprocessors I still don't know for sure. Since they list 4000+ cpus as 754 and 939 socket. If my memory serves me correctly it's a 939.....which was why I originally joined this thread. But I got off topic and had just " AMD " stuck in my head and wandered off about my old 2100+ hehe. Anyways.....very cool thread.


----------



## StormX2

no worries manh, I dont even own my 939 build anymore

I have a Junk build I fished out of the tech dept here, but I have no DDR1 ram, but 2 processors, 1 is a 3800x2 and the other is unknown cus I have not removed the HS yet.

Didnt want to remove the HS because I dont feel like locating TIM for it


----------



## StormX2

nice indeed, the first PC I bought every part for and built my self was Athlon XP 1600+ with a ECS K7S6A Motherboard and some pretty standard Ram for the time. Didn't have much money left cus I bought a Riva TNT2 Ultra with it ;p

I had a mod for the Mobo to later accept a 3200+ Barton core which i grabbed only for Street Cred hehe

Not much longer after that is when I build the socket 939 3700+ on a MSI Neo-F with 7800GTOC , Ram was Corsair Value Select, which they actually could handle well

But they couldnt hold up for my Opty 165, I grabbed XMS Plats for that and they served me very well ;p


----------



## toughacton

Ugg my new PSU was DOA.







Now I'm waiting even longer to get this Abit board and opty up and running. I am going to have 4x512 Crucial Ballistix to try out with it though whenever my RMA goes through!







From the research I've done on it, it should be the good sticks that can get over 500 pretty easily.


----------



## StormX2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Ugg my new PSU was DOA.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm waiting even longer to get this Abit board and opty up and running. I am going to have 4x512 Crucial Ballistix to try out with it though whenever my RMA goes through!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the research I've done on it, it should be the good sticks that can get over 500 pretty easily.


I still think the sweet spot is with the lowest timings possible.

All I know is that my Settings and at only 460mhz were trampling over the DDR2 533 mhz builds for a good long while


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> I still think the sweet spot is with the lowest timings possible.
> All I know is that my Settings and at only 460mhz were trampling over the DDR2 533 mhz builds for a good long while


These are 2 2 2 5 stock DDR 400 at 2.8V. I think (if the option is there) they can do 1.5 CAS at ddr400 but I'll need to test some for sure. I've also read where these guys can get HOT







Hope my RAM fans can keep up.


----------



## StormX2

not much to worry about though, the thermal limits should be pretty high, though i dont know for certain.

my 939 rig always ALWAYS had a room fan Blowing Air sweeping across motherboard front to back, so that everything was receiving Cool fresh air ;p


----------



## cssorkinman

Anyone that wants to show off their boss 939 system can do so in the HWBOT October rush challenge. 3dmark 2001 competition is on now. http://hwbot.org/competition/hoc_oct12/stage/756_rush_#3/
Rasparthe is currently representing the OCN team with a great score of 43031.









I've been trying get a good submission with my 4600+ rig that has a 9800gt in it, so far 35k is about all I can do


----------



## StormX2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Anyone that wants to show off their boss 939 system can do so in the HWBOT October rush challenge. 3dmark 2001 competition is on now. http://hwbot.org/competition/hoc_oct12/stage/756_rush_#3/
> Rasparthe is currently representing the OCN team with a great score of 43031.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been trying get a good submission with my 4600+ rig that has a 9800gt in it, so far 35k is about all I can do


aww i dotn even have a 939 i can boot up for this =/

hmm, it would have been fun to connect the SSD and the GTX275 on me old Opteron 165. i wonde rif olderOS/Drivers make a dif there too, hmmm

i dont remember my 2001 benches lol\


----------



## nategr8ns

I've NEVER run 2001 lol.


----------



## StormX2

I did once

there was an AMD bench Thread for everything Up to 2006

I remember combined scores my Opty build did actually very good, but I dont think thaty data is still around =(

it was a Nice spread sheet


----------



## kwint

Why is it that benchmark competitions always make me wanna dump money into obsolete equipment? I feel like running it and entering for the lulz.


----------



## Disturbed117

Would a Athlon 64 3800+ be 939 or AM2?, Im fairly certain its 939 though.

Edit: the 2006 chips appear to be AM2.


----------



## CrazyMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Disturbed117*
> 
> Would a Athlon 64 3800+ be 939 or AM2?, Im fairly certain its 939 though.
> 
> Edit: the 2006 chips appear to be AM2.


Is it a dual core or a single core?!

If its a dual core yes, its a 939:
http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/K8/AMD-Athlon%2064%20X2%203800+%20-%20ADA3800DAA5CD%20%28ADA3800CDBOX%29.html

If its a single core its a AM2:
http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/K8/AMD-Athlon%2064%203800+%20-%20ADA3800IAA4CN%20%28ADA3800CNBOX%29.html


----------



## Disturbed117

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyMonkey*
> 
> Is it a dual core or a single core?!
> If its a dual core yes, its a 939:
> http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/K8/AMD-Athlon%2064%20X2%203800+%20-%20ADA3800DAA5CD%20%28ADA3800CDBOX%29.html
> If its a single core its a AM2:
> http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/K8/AMD-Athlon%2064%203800+%20-%20ADA3800IAA4CN%20%28ADA3800CNBOX%29.html


Yeah its a AM2 Single core. Thanks.


----------



## toughacton

Hey guys quick question. I have for the first time 4 DIMMs (all matching Ballistix 512 stix) Every time I have all 4 slots populated it automatically sets my RAM to DDR 333 and I was wondering if this always happens when you put all 4 sticks in. I've tried to manually set my RAM to 400 but it never works. It also sets my Command rate to 2 instead of 1. I haven't had a chance to see if i can change that yet. MY PSU is dying and if i turn off the comp or try to reset I have a







of a time getting it to boot up again. I get the feeling that this ASUS mATX board just wont let me force a RAM speed or command rate when all 4 slots are used. Is this common? Will all 939 boards do this? If so, I REALLY need to get my abit and opty working so i can get a higher HTT and get my RAM running at correct speed again. I could always use my 2 gig sticks of value ram but I doubt I can get any more than HTT 225 to work with them without a divider. I'm running win 7 64 bit so less than 2 gigs is probably a no go. One of these days I'll make a dedicated benching XP HDD and only use the 2 best ballistix pair, but that's off in the future when I have a new rig and this turns solely into a OC fun rig.


----------



## StormX2

dont know, I was against the idea of using all dimms personally

Only because I know the Rated specs wont Generally work with all 4 dimms filled in.

as ive mentioned before , personally im very conservative with my Rigs, I prefer to leave Voltages to stock or lower and just achieve solid clocks with those parameters.

unfortunately that meant the highest I could boot was Maybe 312 FSB if I remember correctly with all voltages stock or lower with ram in the 450 mhz range

Sorry hehe I really am struggling to remember the platform after all this time, and cant remember the dividers and such I would have used.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Default speed with 4 sticks is DDR333, period. Anything higher is an overclock. You also MUST use a 2T CR.


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Default speed with 4 sticks is DDR333, period. Anything higher is an overclock. You also MUST use a 2T CR.


That's what I was afraid of, though with a decent HTT I think the 4 sticks will beat out my 2 value crud sticks. +1 vitual rep! for the info though, thanks! Now if UPS would hurry up and get my RMA'd PSU to the egg so I can get a replacement back I'll be in better shape.


----------



## StormX2

even set at 333 , should not be hard at all to clock them higher

Just remember to to test individually ya know?

Lower the Processors Multi, and find the Limits of the memory.

Then Decreas the memory, and increase the Multi on the CPU so you an see how far you can go.

then a combination of what you have learned from testing to achieve your best overall overclock.

I settled with 300fsb and somewhere around 460mhz on the ram Felt like a really sweet spot for me as the timings were still super duper tight

(btw I will glady take that rep haha)


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Default speed with 4 sticks is DDR333, period. Anything higher is an overclock. You also MUST use a 2T CR.
> 
> 
> 
> That's what I was afraid of, though with a decent HTT I think the 4 sticks will beat out my 2 value crud sticks. +1 vitual rep! for the info though, thanks! Now if UPS would hurry up and get my RMA'd PSU to the egg so I can get a replacement back I'll be in better shape.
Click to expand...

Of course, you can always clock them higher. I was able to get DDR500 out of my 4 sticks of XMS, and each pair could do 566. You just have to use the 166 / 333 divider, that's all (and a 2T CR).

Keep in mind, more RAM is going to be better than faster RAM. 939 platform could realistically only take up to around 4GB of RAM. So long as they're matched sticks, they should do fine. But since 4GB was the max amount of DDR available, you are honestly better off going for more RAM than faster speed.


----------



## toughacton

Yeah, I only have these 4 matched 512s and 2 matched 1 gig corsair value ram. ( well i have a few random single sticks) I tried mixing the 2 sets on my asus board for 3 gigs and it used the ddr 200 divider...







WAY slower than just 2 gigs. couldn't get it to set any higher either. It was locked on that divider. Maybe mixing on the Abit board will be more flexible. Will it always try to use the tightest RAM timings of the pairs? That may have been why it was using that divider. I'm sure the 1 gig sticks wouldnt like 2 2 2 5 timings much without that divider. Wish that I had the 20 bucks spare for some matching value ram, but really if I'm going to spend money on old RAM it would be more for a really nice set of 4 gigs. I'm sure that 4 gigs is nice though. I'm loving my wifes APU with 8.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> its ok
> easy to forget this stuff
> Socket A is also known as Socket 462 if not mistaken


Correct.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> I never used Socket 754 and dont even know of what processors ran on it to be honest


I can tell you in most cases if a CPU was a 754 chip but really depends on the model, more on this below.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> Not sure if the amd 4000 you have is 939 or not though


Depends on the exact model but chances are it is a 939. The only 754 chip with 4000+ as it's model designation I can think of ATM would be the 4000+ Newark mobile and yes, I have one.








The easiest way to tell the difference between a 754 and a 939 is to see whether it has a square area of missing pins right in the middle of the chip, if it does it's a 754 hands down, if not, could be a 939 or an AM2 based on exact model. Mind you a few AMD's did cross sockets such as the Venice and Newcastle cores, there are both 754 and 939 versions of these.


----------



## StormX2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Of course, you can always clock them higher. I was able to get DDR500 out of my 4 sticks of XMS, and each pair could do 566. You just have to use the 166 / 333 divider, that's all (and a 2T CR).
> Keep in mind, more RAM is going to be better than faster RAM. 939 platform could realistically only take up to around 4GB of RAM. So long as they're matched sticks, they should do fine. But since 4GB was the max amount of DDR available, you are honestly better off going for more RAM than faster speed.


Yah I will have to say if you can 4GB it , do it.

otherwise u gotta have that super low timings to be useful under 500 mhz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> Correct.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can tell you in most cases if a CPU was a 754 chip but really depends on the model, more on this below.
> 
> Depends on the exact model but chances are it is a 939. The only 754 chip with 4000+ as it's model designation I can think of ATM would be the 4000+ Newark mobile and yes, I have one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The easiest way to tell the difference between a 754 and a 939 is to see whether it has a square area of missing pins right in the middle of the chip, if it does it's a 754 hands down, if not, could be a 939 or an AM2 based on exact model. Mind you a few AMD's did cross sockets such as the Venice and Newcastle cores, there are both 754 and 939 versions of these.


shoot i completely forgot there was cross platform there

well, I went from a Cyrix to A twice to 939 twice to my first intel ^.^ and im poor now so Il be stuck here for a while.


----------



## Kryton

939 and AM2 if I'm not mistaken also have a chip model or two that did that - Not very familiar with AM2 since I more or less skipped it.

Broke out the Opty 175 and the A8N32 SLI Deluxe last night and just letting it run for now, I might try to do some mild volted runs with it before stowing it all again. Also got my Frio OCK cooler to work with this socket







and it's doing OK.
Guess I'll also let the X2 and one of the 4000+'s run for a bit before I tear it down again while I have it setup.

Please don't remind me about being broke - Got a mortgage now and it's killing my OC habit.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Easiest way to tell is just google the model number off the IHS of the chip. That'll telt l you hands down what socket it is. There were cross platform chips from 754, 939, and AM2. They were all exactly the same anyway, the only difference was pinout, pin count, and memory controller. 754 chips only had a single channel DDR, 939 was dual channel DDR, AM2 was dual channel DDR2. Otherwise the CPU's themselves were all exactly the same except stepping and core revision (amount of cache).

There were Venice on all 3. I believe Manchester was on 939 and AM2. Clawhammer might have been all 3 but I don't recall. Toledo = Windsor (939 = AM2). Manchester = Brisbane, but Brissy's clocked a LOT better.
te l
I mean the CPU's were so incredibly similar it wasn't even funny.

I still have a Gigabyte NF4 SLI board, 2GB GSkill DDR400 (good ones that do 500), and a Venice. That's quite literally the ONLY main rig parts I have left though.


----------



## Kryton

Tell me about it but here's something you probrably didn't know - The 754 Newark mobile cores are actually what the San Diego/Toledo/Denmark cores are based upon!
Only difference is the Newarks don't have DC RAM capability for obvious reasons but still the same core even if it's the oldest version of it.

EDIT: Here's an example of what a Newark can do - Did this one sometime ago.
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2058509


----------



## meckert15834

I'm an AMD noob. But I saw this thread and figured I'd ask.

I have An Asus a8n Sli Premium motherboard, athlon x2 3800+ and 4 GB of pyn ram.

They are all just collecting dust since my SIG rig is much better. But I want to try out some extreme cooling (dice/ln2)

Is there much over clocking room with the 939 socket or wouldn't it be very good for extreme cooling.

Would I just be better off putting everything in the freebi forum rather than killing it with Dice?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meckert15834*
> 
> I'm an AMD noob. But I saw this thread and figured I'd ask.
> 
> I have An Asus a8n Sli Premium motherboard, athlon x2 3800+ and 4 GB of pyn ram.
> 
> They are all just collecting dust since my SIG rig is much better. But I want to try out some extreme cooling (dice/ln2)
> 
> Is there much over clocking room with the 939 socket or wouldn't it be very good for extreme cooling.
> 
> Would I just be better off putting everything in the freebi forum rather than killing it with Dice?


If you can get past the cold bug, then its fully going to depend on your stepping on that x2. Some clock really well, some don't. And you would want to use just 2 sticks of RAM too, maybe even just 1.


----------



## Kryton

If you want to learn about sub-zero benching, there you go for a rig you can learn the basics with while not being overly concerned if you do kill it.
Normally these will bugout at about -37c or so, all of my 939 chips I've tried it with so far do that.
Be sure to read up on guides about insulating and the like before you actually try it or it will be a very short benching experience.

If you already know about that kind of benching, you know what I mean - I apologize that I insinuated you were unfamiliar with it if you are truly experienced with it..... My bad


----------



## meckert15834

I have been looking into it for a while I know about the Insulation/pots and what not but it really never crossed mind mind to try it with my spare 939 board.

Thanks for the quick replys and info!


----------



## Kryton

No prob.









Now, set it up and see what happens!


----------



## StormX2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Easiest way to tell is just google the model number off the IHS of the chip. That'll telt l you hands down what socket it is. There were cross platform chips from 754, 939, and AM2. They were all exactly the same anyway, the only difference was pinout, pin count, and memory controller. 754 chips only had a single channel DDR, 939 was dual channel DDR, AM2 was dual channel DDR2. Otherwise the CPU's themselves were all exactly the same except stepping and core revision (amount of cache).
> There were Venice on all 3. I believe Manchester was on 939 and AM2. Clawhammer might have been all 3 but I don't recall. Toledo = Windsor (939 = AM2). Manchester = Brisbane, but Brissy's clocked a LOT better.
> te l
> I mean the CPU's were so incredibly similar it wasn't even funny.
> I still have a Gigabyte NF4 SLI board, 2GB GSkill DDR400 (good ones that do 500), and a Venice. That's quite literally the ONLY main rig parts I have left though.


lol kind of like me, only im missing the Ram, an unknown chip under the cooler and a 3800x2 sitting around, dont knwo the mobo, but I only have a x800 for an extra GPU

So Il gladly borrow that ram for a while ;p

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meckert15834*
> 
> I'm an AMD noob. But I saw this thread and figured I'd ask.
> I have An Asus a8n Sli Premium motherboard, athlon x2 3800+ and 4 GB of pyn ram.
> They are all just collecting dust since my SIG rig is much better. But I want to try out some extreme cooling (dice/ln2)
> Is there much over clocking room with the 939 socket or wouldn't it be very good for extreme cooling.
> Would I just be better off putting everything in the freebi forum rather than killing it with Dice?


or your Ram if you choose to freebie it haha

I just wouldnt mind trying to overclock 939 again, it wont be as awesome as it was with what I Had, but its atleast familiar territory, I still and lost with this 1366 platform -.-


----------



## pioneerisloud

I can't let you borrow it, lol. That's going to be my main rig once I find somewhere to live, and get a little bit of income so I can buy what I'm missing.


----------



## StormX2

hmm sounds complicated

im gonna be doing some extra work ont eh weekends, installign security cameras, and I think i might finally replace my dead amplifier in the car

but I have no idea what to replace it with, damn thing was a slick 1k 4 channel just for my awesome polks


----------



## Xyro TR1

Gawd, I just went back and read my first posts in this thread all the way back on page 130. My first post on OCN, too!









I wonder if anyone in here remembers back that far.







They may be surprised to know that my old Opty 180 from back in the day is _still in use_ every day by a friend. It's in an A8N-E with a boatload of DDR and a HD4850 for video. Whenever that friend finally needs to upgrade, I think I just might come on back here...


----------



## StormX2

hehe yah my Father has my Opty 165 rig

and I think my first post here was around when you joined the forum actually. somewhere on page 78?

weird too, though because I dont remember the timeframe, cus I thought I was on this thread before 2008 but its not older than 2008 =?

so weird


----------



## CrazyMonkey

Finally the opty 170 arrived today... Next week gonna try it on OC!!!







With it came a kit of 2x512MB DDR PC4000 of Crucial Ballistix Tracer but seem to be dead... Need to try it on another system to be shure!!!


----------



## Buska103

I've got a 3200+ (939) with no motherboard from an OEM.
It's pretty much worthless... I think I'll make a keychain with it


----------



## Disturbed117

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buska103*
> 
> I've got a 3200+ (939) with no motherboard from an OEM.
> It's pretty much worthless... *I think I'll make a keychain with it*


----------



## Buska103

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Disturbed117*


http://www.overclockersclub.com/guides/cpu_keychain_guide/


----------



## Disturbed117

I could never do a working chip that way. Regardless of age.


----------



## StormX2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Disturbed117*
> 
> I could never do a working chip that way. Regardless of age.


I would to a Duron or k6

I used to have a Necklass of a k6 somewhere


----------



## Xyro TR1

Someone needs to do that to a Slot 1 Pentium 3, except wear it on a chain around their neck. Geek bling!


----------



## StormX2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*
> 
> Someone needs to do that to a Slot 1 Pentium 3, except wear it on a chain around their neck. Geek bling!


this is how you Flava Flav it!


----------



## N0NAM3

I have a collection of 939's not getting rid of them until they fry. (4400+ x2 toledo, 3800+ x2 toledo, 3500+ clawhammer, 3700+ san diego) 4400 x2 runs 24/7 as a server no problem. Definitely one of my favorite amd sockets


----------



## Xyro TR1

Socket 939 holds a special place in my heart.


----------



## StormX2

specially since our 939 rigs were better than DDR2 builds earlty on


----------



## N0NAM3

The only thing that saddens me, im running low on ddr1 memory


----------



## StormX2

I have no DDR1 at all unfortunately

And ther eis an Unknown 939 box that I rescued from my companies graveyard, Dont knwo what chip is under the HS, but I do have a 2800x2 aroudn somewhere.

Just dont think I hav3e a GPU for it =/


----------



## N0NAM3

im down to 2x1gb sticks of patriot that are in my 4400x2 server, and 1 extra 512mb stick of kingston valuram laying around


----------



## N0NAM3

Also, the dimm slots on my asus a8s-x board died so thats one of my 939 boards out of comission, and that actually happend last week :C


----------



## StormX2

I dont even remember what board it is in that junker i salvaged.

Il check it out tonight


----------



## CrazyMonkey

I have some 939 stuff around: opty 175, opty 170, opti 146 (some twisted pins, but easy to recover), 3200+ venice, 3000+ and lying around somewere in the basement some opty 144.

About mainboards : DFI LP NF4 Ultra, ASUS AN8-SLI Deluxe, DFI NF3 Ultra D, MSI K8N Neo4-F (Maybe dead, need to check), abit KN8 SLI (needs a new BIOS flash)

Here in Portugal sometimes I found some items for sell by a good price... Last aquisition to the collections was the Opty 170 and 2x512MB Crucial Ballistix PC4000 for 32,5€ (around $42)...


----------



## toughacton

Ok so I never did get the Abit Fatal1ty board to work. It just won't post. Maybe it has a bad bios chip. i dont know. At any rate I caught an awesome deal on fleabay!














Check it out http://www.ebay.com/itm/DFI-Lan-Party-nF4-SLI-DR-socket-939-AMD-Opteron-165-1-GB-Ram-2-x-512-MB-/321010900482?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&nma=true&si=rEIOKwVR3snKaPh%2BfLvy7yzHdSI%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc

I'm stoked to get a chance to own a real piece of 939 history. This one has at least been tested and is working when it left the previous owners hands, so I have high hopes that either the opty that came with it or my other will clock well







now if i only had a matching 4 Gig set of RAM


----------



## Cyrious

I need a better S939 board. The one that i have right now has a glitch/bug/whathaveyou that causes it to allocate 800MB of ram to hardware for no reason. As i have 4GB of ram installed, it means i can only use 3.2GB, and yes i have a 64bit OS installed.

And then there is the fact i think the board is having problems with the memory power circuitry, because when i started it up today to give it a run, i had to play memory shuffle to get it to post.

Problem is, cant purchase a board from one of you guys as the money that i have right now is going towards a Phenom II x4 940 and a board for it. Gotta get that backup quad in the event i accidentally fry my sig rig pushing it too hard.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyrious*
> 
> I need a better S939 board. The one that i have right now has a glitch/bug/whathaveyou that causes it to allocate 800MB of ram to hardware for no reason. As i have 4GB of ram installed, it means i can only use 3.2GB, and yes i have a 64bit OS installed.
> And then there is the fact i think the board is having problems with the memory power circuitry, because when i started it up today to give it a run, i had to play memory shuffle to get it to post.
> Problem is, cant purchase a board from one of you guys as the money that i have right now is going towards a Phenom II x4 940 and a board for it. Gotta get that backup quad in the event i accidentally fry my sig rig pushing it too hard.


There's a setting for that!

I had that issue on my DFI board without realizing it. I think the setting for me was called Memory Hole Remapping.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Ok so I never did get the Abit Fatal1ty board to work. It just won't post. Maybe it has a bad bios chip. i dont know. At any rate I caught an awesome deal on fleabay!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check it out http://www.ebay.com/itm/DFI-Lan-Party-nF4-SLI-DR-socket-939-AMD-Opteron-165-1-GB-Ram-2-x-512-MB-/321010900482?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&nma=true&si=rEIOKwVR3snKaPh%2BfLvy7yzHdSI%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc
> 
> I'm stoked to get a chance to own a real piece of 939 history. This one has at least been tested and is working when it left the previous owners hands, so I have high hopes that either the opty that came with it or my other will clock well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now if i only had a matching 4 Gig set of RAM


If you run high density ram as in 1gb sticks the overclock may not be as capable as if you ran 256mb or 512mb sticks. Additionally you will have overclocking problems if you populate all 4 ram slots. Something about to much stress on the IMC of the CPU. Good Luck w/the new board and chips.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Cyrious*
> 
> I need a better S939 board. The one that i have right now has a glitch/bug/whathaveyou that causes it to allocate 800MB of ram to hardware for no reason. As i have 4GB of ram installed, it means i can only use 3.2GB, and yes i have a 64bit OS installed.
> And then there is the fact i think the board is having problems with the memory power circuitry, because when i started it up today to give it a run, i had to play memory shuffle to get it to post.
> Problem is, cant purchase a board from one of you guys as the money that i have right now is going towards a Phenom II x4 940 and a board for it. Gotta get that backup quad in the event i accidentally fry my sig rig pushing it too hard.
> 
> 
> 
> There's a setting for that!
> 
> I had that issue on my DFI board without realizing it. I think the setting for me was called Memory Hole Remapping.
Click to expand...

this issue just came up a few months back and yes look for some kind of memory hole or remapping option in the bios to allow for more ram when in OS.


----------



## StormX2

memory hole sounds right nate, I cant be certain though

so this is what I found after cleaning our basement in preparation for Sandy Hurricane

ldbhe

3800x2
LDBHE

Asus A8V-VM

found a 3500 and a 3200 Processor

Gigabyte
GA-K8N51GMF-9
2 x 1 GB Super Talent DDR400

Don't know anything about these boards, and UI have a Really old-school HS for 939 so I wont be able to do much overclocking on these =(

Id Like to try making a small box for my TV, but that may not be happening.


----------



## toughacton

Hey guys I got the Sli-DR today and I'm having trouble getting it to post. I am getting stuck at 1 debug light. (which from what i can tell is the video card) I have a known working HD 6450. I've tried both slots and i get the same thing. Any ideas? The card has no external power hookups btw. At the moment everything nonessential is disconnected. just have cpu 1 stick of ram in far orange slot and the gpu. Do these sli boards only run nvidia cards? I thought they could run any, just not sli ATI cards obv. but if thats the case then that may be it. Ive cleaned out the slots and the previous owner had it hooked up with a pcie card so i know that it SHOULD work. PSU is 600w Coolmax sli ready 80+ cert. zx-600

EDIT! YAY I got it to post.







I used the bottom slot and an old x300 card. Hopefully once i get things all set up I can switch to the good card, but its enough to know i have a working board. Maybe it was just having issues with a cold boot? anywho I hope to post some cool clocks (probably in a new build thread or something) CHEERS!


----------



## N2Gaming

Did you connect the 4 pin floppy connector cable to the mobo above the 1st PCIE Slot about 1-2 inches back from the rear of the PCI bracket area?


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*
> 
> Did you connect the 4 pin floppy connector cable to the mobo above the 1st PCIE Slot about 1-2 inches back from the rear of the PCI bracket area?


Yes I had all 4 power connections. Not really sure what I did different other than using the old card while only using one stick. i may have have more than one stick in the first time i tried it. I'm hoping that eventually i can get the hd 6450 to work in there. Running a quick occt test of my new opty at 250 fsb htt x4 and ram on 166 div for 400 ddr at 2 2 2 5 timings 2T (its 4 512 sticks) stock volts on everything







this is gonna be fun!

My work thus far







still haven't tested this other than super pi for stability, but this is good so far. By the way my new 165 is stepping LCBQE 0722
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2575382


----------



## StormX2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Yes I had all 4 power connections. Not really sure what I did different other than using the old card while only using one stick. i may have have more than one stick in the first time i tried it. I'm hoping that eventually i can get the hd 6450 to work in there. Running a quick occt test of my new opty at 250 fsb htt x4 and ram on 166 div for 400 ddr at 2 2 2 5 timings 2T (its 4 512 sticks) stock volts on everything
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this is gonna be fun!
> My work thus far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> still haven't tested this other than super pi for stability, but this is good so far. By the way my new 165 is stepping LCBQE 0722
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2575382


Did you have to touch vpoltage at all for 300 fsb? I mostly ran mine 300 fsb with stock or little lower on the voltage,

312 was my Max without extra voltage but it wasnt perfectly stable and didnt want more heat for my 24/7


----------



## toughacton

Well I haven't stabilized 300fsb yet. I've got 290 stable at 1.35V (although I've not checked to see if i can go lower yet) I have actually had a harder time getting it to post at higher than stock vcore. but it could just be a case of me needing to burn in at this speed some before i try for more regardless of voltage. Plus if this opty tops out here I always have the other. Though i thought most LCBxE steppings were supposed to be good. mileage may very :shrug: I will hopefully get the HD6450 working and then try testing the FSB max. It could be that I need more chipset voltage or something. Though i bumped it to 1.6 to start with anyways just for testing. This DFI board is just full of options and possibilities.

Quick question though. I've tried using memtest from bios and it keeps locking up. Can this be caused by an unstable OC? Should I make sure the OC is stable to use it? Can the memtest program get borked but not the BIOS?

Edit, some picks of the ol beauty


----------



## StormX2

hmm what was my opty, L something BBE or CBBE grr I cant remember!


----------



## toughacton

So I am kinda bummed. the SLI-DR has a bulging cap. I couldn't get to post at anything more than 300 fsb and gave the board a better look over and there is a cap near the socket thats bulging. Can the board still be used safely? Should I try to replace the cap? I've never done any actual work on a board before, so it may be that its not worth potentially killing the board altogether. Also this is the pickiest board ever! I swear if it gets out of whack at all I have to do a serious hard cmos reset. And i still cant get it to post with my hd 6450, well i take that back it posted once, but then kept crashing trying to load windows at all stock settings, then wouldn'y post again. Still though even if im capped at about 300 fsb thats WAY better than the 240 i was stuck with.


----------



## xzamples

yeah skt 939!!!

while I am here I mind as well ask, does anybody have a kit of 4gb ddr400 pc3200 ram?


----------



## StormX2

Team Extreme I have is only 2GB =(


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> So I am kinda bummed. the SLI-DR has a bulging cap. I couldn't get to post at anything more than 300 fsb and gave the board a better look over and there is a cap near the socket thats bulging. Can the board still be used safely? Should I try to replace the cap? I've never done any actual work on a board before, so it may be that its not worth potentially killing the board altogether. Also this is the pickiest board ever! I swear if it gets out of whack at all I have to do a serious hard cmos reset. And i still cant get it to post with my hd 6450, well i take that back it posted once, but then kept crashing trying to load windows at all stock settings, then wouldn'y post again. Still though even if im capped at about 300 fsb thats WAY better than the 240 i was stuck with.


1: _Get that cap replaced_ - It will cause problems before long.
Replacing caps isn't hard to do but if you do it yourself be aware that the cap goes into the board one way, installed backwards isn't good for it. You wil see a black/white reference on the board where it goes related to the stripe on the cap itself, just set the new one in the same way the old one comes out. Also be sure to get the correct/matching cap when you get one.

2: It's a DFI so it gonna be peculiar. Like a F1 Formula car, it's gotta be tuned just right but once it is, look out.
DFI's can be and are some of the pickiest boards you'll ever run across but you also get the performance from your tuning efforts. BTW if you run into problems booting, sometimes you can set the BIOS to default settings first, then do your tweaks to recover. You'll probrably have to reboot before tweaking but that normally works. Also don't feel too bad, I have a LanParty D that hates anything above 265 or so, seems to top out there and so far it hasn't gone any higher. No bad caps or anything, it's just a really cranky board.


----------



## toughacton

Well I may see if I can find a replacement cap or a local place that will fix a cap for me. Its just the one and its not super bad yet, but with as hard as I plan pushing this thing I can foresee issues developing.

Also I popped out the Opty 165 that came with it and put my 4200 x2 manny back in and got some good results so far. If anyone wants to update my entry on the front page here's the validation







http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2578968 The volts are a bit high at 1.55 and probably the max I can use on the air cooling I have. I'm getting about 63 or 64C when stress testing, so I doubt I can raise it anymore and still keep it cool. Though I am on a relatively small heatsink, so if I upgrade to a better one I may get some more headroom. Looks like I have a good manny though to get it over 2.6







It feels like it has a lot more to give as well. Weren't they known for topping out at about 2.6?

I'm also wondering if the opty that came with the SLI-DR was abused. It could get up to about 2.6 with 2 gigs of RAM, but when I put in 4 I had a heck of a time getting it stable at any more than 2.2 or so. Oh well I always have that other CCBBE 165 I can try out.







Maybe when my MX-4 gets here I'll swap it in and see how it does.


----------



## Kryton

2 sticks will always clock better than 4 will, mainly it's due to the strain on the chip's memory controller trying to manage 4 sticks vs 2 when OC'ing. If going for max clocks, 2 sticks always wins vs 4.

I'm not clear on the Mannys since I've never had one but I know they don't clock as well as the Optys did overall. The Opty you mentioned (CCBBE) should be a decent to good one, that stepping is fairly good. As for the one that came with board, I suppose it's possible it could have been abused but Opty's were made for surviving harsh conditions being these are server chips.
BTW, what stepping and date is that one?

Don't toss that chip - Socket 939 Opty chips are what alot of folks are looking for and you have 2 of them. As for what's holding them back, you'd need a strong FSB clocking board to get the most from it with it's max multi of 9x.
I have a 165, 175 and 180 here and you'd think the 180 would be the strongest one I'd have but that's not the case here - The 175 is the best of the three.

If you were to find one with a higher max multi such as a 170 or higher model, that will help to offset the board's inability to clock the bus up and give you better CPU speed overall. That's why I have only one 165 and got the rest as higher models when I purchased them new back in the day.


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> BTW, what stepping and date is that one?
> .


Its a LCBQE 0722 I believe. So it ought to be good, but I haven't tried seeing if it was just the board fsb limit causing my issues or the chip. Also my windows install went junky on me, so I've reinstalled since then. Its possible that it would be more stable now that I have windows working better. The weird thing is that whenever i tried any volts above say 1.35 I couldn't get it to boot (of course this was also at 270 or higher fsb that i started messing with volts. It didn't need any extra at lower fsb), and with this manny I'm obviously way more than that.







Well, I can always test it again later. I'm waiting on my new thermal grease to get here. I'm just about out of the stuff that coolermaster sent with my heatsink, so I can't switch too much until i get the new stuff (which ought to be better for temps anyways.


----------



## Kryton

LCBQE is the best stepping you can get with those and the chip's date is about as good as it gets too. All of my Opty's are LCB9E chips and wish I had one of those like yours. The stepping I have is good also but that one is the best of the bunch.
If the chip isn't a dud, should be a really good clocker - Provided the board will let it fly.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> LCBQE is the best stepping you can get with those and the chip's date is about as good as it gets too. All of my Opty's are LCB9E chips and wish I had one of those like yours. The stepping I have is good also but that one is the best of the bunch.
> If the chip isn't a dud, should be a really good clocker - Provided the board will let it fly.


I thought CCBBE held most of the records.


----------



## StormX2

I wish I wrote down what mine was =/

the power supply that I had for the AMD machine I was goiung ot play with seems to be dead

A Fan Lights and spins for Half a second though before power cuts out completely =(

could be bad mobo or PSU, IL have to use the tester to check I guess =(

And the spare GPU x800 turned out it was AGP and the board is PCIe sigh.


----------



## toughacton

Well here is my limit for the 4200 x2 manny







http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2580699 Got this to windows, validated and then it crashed. I think it would take serious volts to go any higher and certainly way better cooling. I passed S&M at 2.7 and it spiked at around 75 or so during the fpu test!







So yeah... maybe not an everyday setting until i get a better air cooler or go under water. I'm hoping I can get one of the optys running faster anyways since from what I've read tend to go higher on less volts. Certainly less than a manny at any rate. New MX-4 paste should get here today, so I'll give it a whirl and let you guys know how it does.

On another note, I have finished reading this ENTIRE thread







I feel so knowledgeable now thanks to the wonderful folks who have contributed to this thread! Thanks all!


----------



## StormX2

you read the whoooole thread?? wow


----------



## toughacton

Well guys, I did it!














http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2582281 Check out the 3GHz opty with 4 gigs of RAM! Took quite a bit of volts to get there although I may be able to back it down a touch and still get it to work. Nice thing is that this CCBBE 0610 went to 2.8 1 hr OCCT stable at 1.34V. It took 1.49V to get to 2.9 stable though top temps on load are around 66. I can't test any of the higher clocks for stability because its just getting too hot. They seem stable (but without testing that doesnt mean much. I think I'll probably back it down to 2.8 or so and work on trying to get the most out of the RAM, though from what I can tell It won't go much higher than 400 at the current timings.


----------



## StormX2

nj man!

glad to hear of the success!

I was never able to stay stable on 3ghz with the Opty, the stock cooler is a good one, just not good enough for that. I always backed out due to the voltage.

300fsb x 9 and ram at 460mhz with low timings, that was good enough for me


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Well guys, I did it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2582281 Check out the 3GHz opty with 4 gigs of RAM! Took quite a bit of volts to get there although I may be able to back it down a touch and still get it to work. Nice thing is that this CCBBE 0610 went to 2.8 1 hr OCCT stable at 1.34V. It took 1.49V to get to 2.9 stable though top temps on load are around 66. I can't test any of the higher clocks for stability because its just getting too hot. They seem stable (but without testing that doesnt mean much. I think I'll probably back it down to 2.8 or so and work on trying to get the most out of the RAM, though from what I can tell It won't go much higher than 400 at the current timings.


Good Job! That's quite an accomplishment


----------



## CrazyMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Well guys, I did it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2582281 Check out the 3GHz opty with 4 gigs of RAM! Took quite a bit of volts to get there although I may be able to back it down a touch and still get it to work. Nice thing is that this CCBBE 0610 went to 2.8 1 hr OCCT stable at 1.34V. It took 1.49V to get to 2.9 stable though top temps on load are around 66. I can't test any of the higher clocks for stability because its just getting too hot. They seem stable (but without testing that doesnt mean much. I think I'll probably back it down to 2.8 or so and work on trying to get the most out of the RAM, though from what I can tell It won't go much higher than 400 at the current timings.


Nice score mate!!! I wich i could do the same in my 175 Opty...


----------



## Cyrious

My S939 motherboard, the board that formed the base of my first half decent computer, has finally given up the ghost. So now im stuck with a dead 939 system until i can afford a replacement board.


----------



## StormX2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyrious*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My S939 motherboard, the board that formed the base of my first half decent computer, has finally given up the ghost. So now im stuck with a dead 939 system until i can afford a replacement board.


i know how you feeeels

Junker Build I had thrown together with a Gigabyte 939 board of some form, turne dout the PSU was dead and I dont have any extras.

All the other working Junkers I put together were donated to local Co-Ops and Shelters, One was an E2200 machine that I built and helped trade for a Laptop that my friend (who is extremely down on his luck, homeless and half crippled) needs to hopefully get his artwork going and maybe find a place to be. Too bad the Laptop is now not working very well -.-

Unfortunately he cant use a Desktop cus Trees make terrible sources of Power for a PC

I was hoping honestly to setup a Open air Cardboard build with the amd 3800x2 that I have with the 2gb Super Talent ram , connect it to my TV since PS3 sux SO BAD at running Youtube and Websites


----------



## Cyrious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> i know how you feeeels
> Junker Build I had thrown together with a Gigabyte 939 board of some form, turne dout the PSU was dead and I dont have any extras.
> All the other working Junkers I put together were donated to local Co-Ops and Shelters, One was an E2200 machine that I built and helped trade for a Laptop that my friend (who is extremely down on his luck, homeless and half crippled) needs to hopefully get his artwork going and maybe find a place to be. Too bad the Laptop is now not working very well -.-


you wouldnt still happen to have that Gigabyte board would you?


----------



## StormX2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyrious*
> 
> you wouldnt still happen to have that Gigabyte board would you?


Yes its still sitting in the PC

Ive got 2 939 boards actually, a few pages are I wrote what models, give me one sec and Il get em

Edit,

Here is what I have

3800x2
LDBHE

Asus A8V-VM

found a 3500 and a 3200 Processor

Gigabyte
GA-K8N51GMF-9
2 x 1 GB Super Talent DDR400

I have not used a power supply tester on the PSU yet, when I turn the PSU switch on, I get instant Power for a half a second to a fan that lights up, but then it stops cold and pressing powerbutton does nothing.


----------



## KipH

I was digging in my junk pile to find a PSU and perhaps some other parts. I found a whole computer! A nice 393 with 4GB rams and a good PUS and even some hard drives and a 4850 video card. Only one cap blown on the Mobo. Its off to gigabyte to be fixed, good thing is it wont cost more than 10$ here







Then I get to play with Tech I still know how to overclock. This new 2011 and i7 are running circles around me and I feel like a square.


----------



## StormX2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kip69*
> 
> I was digging in my junk pile to find a PSU and perhaps some other parts. I found a whole computer! A nice 393 with 4GB rams and a good PUS and even some hard drives and a 4850 video card. Only one cap blown on the Mobo. Its off to gigabyte to be fixed, good thing is it wont cost more than 10$ here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I get to play with Tech I still know how to overclock. This new 2011 and i7 are running circles around me and I feel like a square.


ah Kip, I know what you mean, I still cant overclock this damn 1366..

its all so backwards, I had found a template kind of thing, and just set my specs to the rtemplate, but whne I formated for the SSD, I never foudn it again and cant remember the bios info since i updated the bios as well =(

I was really hoping to get this 939 running for a TV Build


----------



## Cyrious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> Yes its still sitting in the PC
> Ive got 2 939 boards actually, a few pages are I wrote what models, give me one sec and Il get em
> Edit,
> Here is what I have
> 3800x2
> LDBHE
> Asus A8V-VM
> found a 3500 and a 3200 Processor
> Gigabyte
> GA-K8N51GMF-9
> 2 x 1 GB Super Talent DDR400
> I have not used a power supply tester on the PSU yet, when I turn the PSU switch on, I get instant Power for a half a second to a fan that lights up, but then it stops cold and pressing powerbutton does nothing.


YGPM


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyrious*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My S939 motherboard, the board that formed the base of my first half decent computer, has finally given up the ghost. So now im stuck with a dead 939 system until i can afford a replacement board.


That's the worst. My first Opteron did that to me.
Strangely enough, two or three years later I brought it out to Seattle with me and it randomly booted up when I got here.


----------



## StormX2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*
> 
> That's the worst. My first Opteron did that to me.
> Strangely enough, two or three years later I brought it out to Seattle with me and it randomly booted up when I got here.


Guess it was so depressing in seattle that the already Dead Chip Commited reverse Suicide, Necroside?


----------



## Cyrious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> Guess it was so depressing in seattle that the already Dead Chip Commited reverse Suicide, Necroside?


----------



## CrazyMonkey

This week i've been testing some hardware that i have in my basement and got some lucky to bring back to live 2 great mobos that were suposed to be dead!

DFI UT Nforce 3 Ultra D
abit AN8 Ultra (NF4)

Revived also other stuff:

Creative X-Fi Extreme Music
MSI K7N2 Delta 2
ECS P4ITA

All revived witn an airdryer!!!!


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyMonkey*
> 
> This week i've been testing some hardware that i have in my basement and got some lucky to bring back to live 2 great mobos that were suposed to be dead!
> DFI UT Nforce 3 Ultra D
> abit AN8 Ultra (NF4)
> Revived also other stuff:
> Creative X-Fi Extreme Music
> MSI K7N2 Delta 2
> ECS P4ITA
> All revived witn an airdryer!!!!


MSI K7N Delta ISLR..... my first build <3


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> MSI K7N Delta ISLR..... my first build <3


Got a hot modded bios for you, should you decide to build another one.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Got a hot modded bios for you, should you decide to build another one.


Well look who's here







. That would be pretty cool and i still have the board too , but i don't think it or the 2500 barton have much left to give


----------



## toughacton

Well I tried a suicide to get a bit higher clock on the opty http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2584915 I think I could hit 3.1 with a little more juice, but its crazy unstable as it is. I was too lazy to take out 2 sticks of RAM to see if that helped.







Anyways I ought to be getting some DDR 500 sticks from a friend to try out (they may or may not be good, he has no way of checking). I'm thinking that without the need for a low 120 divider I'll see some better clocks. I have however gotten a stable 2.9 clock http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2584926 Runs like a dream









On a seperate note, has anyone ever had issues with losing your OC when bringing your PC out of sleep? Whenever I use the sleep function I lose my FSB setting. All other settings remain though. Its really weird.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Well look who's here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . That would be pretty cool and i still have the board too , but i don't think it or the 2500 barton have much left to give


Only one way to find out what's left ya know.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> Only one way to find out what's left ya know.


Yup , and i just soldered all new caps on it too. Also have some freshly acquired PC 4400 that has never seen the delta hmmmm could be fun , if i ever get the time.
That setup was amazing- ran for years at 2.2 ghz.


----------



## blooder11181

i found a opteron 146 sledgehammer socket 940 but cant get a mobo for it.


----------



## beers

My SuperMicro H8SSL-i board bit the dust a couple days ago








It had been progressively failing for a while and then just refused to turn on..

I was really wanting a decent 939 replacement board but they seemed more expensive than to just get something AM3+ (~$33)..









I'm fairly surprised I can't find any of this board in any reasonable capacity:
http://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/939A785GMH


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beers*
> 
> My SuperMicro H8SSL-i board bit the dust a couple days ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It had been progressively failing for a while and then just refused to turn on..
> I was really wanting a decent 939 replacement board but they seemed more expensive than to just get something AM3+ (~$33)..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm fairly surprised I can't find any of this board in any reasonable capacity:
> http://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/939A785GMH


As far as I know this board was never sold in the US, only the UK. So there weren't many available when they were first made. If you find one at all, it would probably cost WAY more than its really worth. However, you never know







sometimes you can find stuff cheap. Just keep an eye our for one in case someone on ebay or similar sells one and doesn't know its value.


----------



## kwint

Yeah, how awesome it would be to have a 785g chipset paired with a 939. I think those would have sold pretty well out here considered all the 939 matx oems i've seen.


----------



## frostbite

Can I join, I haven't been on in a few years lol


----------



## StormX2

nah just needed a quad core Opteorn on 939, thatd been cool


----------



## toughacton

well I just thought I'd show off some of the work I've been doing. I got a great deal on some crucial ballistix pc4000 2x1gigs of RAM and have been pushing it.  Finally got a sub 30 sec super pi







no to mention DDR 580 at stock 2.8 V and stock timings. I may just be able to get to the elusive ddr600 with this stuff







Just wish i didn't need so many volts to get to 2.9GHz and beyond for this chip.


----------



## xzamples

my skt 939 rig http://valid.canardpc.com/2590571 the main one i use , only pc i got










wish i had a better video card and better ram i would be able to run better games


----------



## StormX2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> well I just thought I'd show off some of the work I've been doing. I got a great deal on some crucial ballistix pc4000 2x1gigs of RAM and have been pushing it.  Finally got a sub 30 sec super pi
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> no to mention DDR 580 at stock 2.8 V and stock timings. I may just be able to get to the elusive ddr600 with this stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just wish i didn't need so many volts to get to 2.9GHz and beyond for this chip.


wow! Nice stuff dude

got a 3d06 benchie for us to look at?


----------



## toughacton

MY 3dmark is horrible. I'm running a HD6450 (which i think is 64bit). I think i get at best around 6000 marks. Really need to get a 8800 or 9800 on the cheap and see if i can't get past the 10K mark. (also I never did get around to turning off extra processes, so that may have been why the scores were low). Also I got a sub 29 sec pi score, like 28.39 or something at 3.05GHz. I'll edit this post with a screenie later. Lovin this pc4000 ballistix though. Highest I've done stable at the 3-4-4-8 timings has been DDR 584. I've tried adding volts up to 3.2 but still lots of errors in memtest at ddr 600. I might have to loosen up the timings more to get there, and a CAS of 4 is unappealing. I tried 3.5 and had instant fail and needed to reset CMOS.







On a fun note I bought a "non-working" SLI-DR board on the cheap from ebay. I figure I'll either get it running or I'll use it to replace the cap thats going bad on my working one. It also came with 2x512 OCZ plats 2-2-2-5 timings and a 3500. (both of which are claimed tested and working. So even if the board truly is dead, I'll have something to show for my purchase.


----------



## blooder11181

there is sapphire hd6450 512mb ddr5 64bits (i did had one and it was good but i sold it







)


----------



## StormX2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> MY 3dmark is horrible. I'm running a HD6450 (which i think is 64bit). I think i get at best around 6000 marks. Really need to get a 8800 or 9800 on the cheap and see if i can't get past the 10K mark. (also I never did get around to turning off extra processes, so that may have been why the scores were low). Also I got a sub 29 sec pi score, like 28.39 or something at 3.05GHz. I'll edit this post with a screenie later. Lovin this pc4000 ballistix though. Highest I've done stable at the 3-4-4-8 timings has been DDR 584. I've tried adding volts up to 3.2 but still lots of errors in memtest at ddr 600. I might have to loosen up the timings more to get there, and a CAS of 4 is unappealing. I tried 3.5 and had instant fail and needed to reset CMOS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a fun note I bought a "non-working" SLI-DR board on the cheap from ebay. I figure I'll either get it running or I'll use it to replace the cap thats going bad on my working one. It also came with 2x512 OCZ plats 2-2-2-5 timings and a 3500. (both of which are claimed tested and working. So even if the board truly is dead, I'll have something to show for my purchase.


thats ok, my 939 never saw 10k unfortunately, didnt have crossfire or SLI like some of the others did

think my best was close to 10k though. want to say like 9400's


----------



## droctygonn

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm06/12579874

hows that for a socket 939 score


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *droctygonn*
> 
> http://www.3dmark.com/3dm06/12579874
> hows that for a socket 939 score


I love this. Who remembers that argument a few months ago about 939's 3dm06 records?


----------



## droctygonn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*
> 
> I love this. Who remembers that argument a few months ago about 939's 3dm06 records?


Of course I do. When you have the highest benchmark, all of a sudden you can no longer reply on that forum thread. LOL go figure.


----------



## cssorkinman

Almost 10k is the best I've been able to do with a 939 setup. Single evga 9800gt Akimbo. I just can't squeeze any more than about 2.7 ghz out of the dual core 939 I have in 3d benches








This thread gives me the itch to try again tho


----------



## nategr8ns

I think I hit 10k with my opty at 3GHz and my 8800GT (with an accelero S1) at stupid high shader clocks.


----------



## beers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Almost 10k is the best I've been able to do with a 939 setup. Single evga 9800gt Akimbo. I just can't squeeze any more than about 2.7 ghz out of the dual core 939 I have in 3d benches
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This thread gives me the itch to try again tho


You should be able to eke out a few more points with that 4400+..

Here's an old 3870 bench at 10k (opty [email protected]) although IIRC 8800/9800GT scores were generally slightly higher..
http://www.3dmark.com/3dm06/6797305


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beers*
> 
> You should be able to eke out a few more points with that 4400+..
> Here's an old 3870 bench at 10k (opty [email protected]) although IIRC 8800/9800GT scores were generally slightly higher..
> http://www.3dmark.com/3dm06/6797305


Your right beers,I've always been a bit disappointed in that chip. I even set up a rudimentary chiller in the pursuit of higher clocks, but something was holding me back 








The board may be getting pretty weak, It has so many hours on it almost all of them running my FX-55 with about a 300 mhz overclock. Maybe asking it to pump volts to a hungry dual core is too much for it in it's geriatric state ?








Nice 06 score btw


----------



## nategr8ns

Found my old bench for 2.8ghz. I guess I didn't save any at 3ghz.

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm06/6251019


----------



## cssorkinman

Nice job N8 , your gonna force my 939 out of retirement


----------



## Kryton

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm06/16775849

I got 11K no prob.
I also noted yours had a pair of 8800 GT''s in SLI while mine was a single 550. I don't know what clockspeed your CPU was running at but mine was below 2800MHz for sure.

It's obvious I can beat that with ease, no prob but as for me being able to lay valid claim to a result, seems my browser doesn't want to open the site anymore.
I keep getting an error and it won't let me do a submission - In fact I think this was the very last one I got to go through before the funky browser issue popped up.

Any solutions to this are welcomed of course but if you'd want I can set something up before long and beat that result.


----------



## cssorkinman

I haven't got a 939 sli board, whats your best score with a single 8800gt?


----------



## Mr.Scott

Somebody say 939 contest? I'll play.


----------



## cssorkinman

Hello Mr. Scott, things could get interesting if we get a few more players








O.T. - Should I submit a superpi score with my 8350 in the country cup for the good old usa?


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Should I submit a superpi score with my 8350 in the country cup for the good old usa?


I would like that very much.








Always a pleasure to see you around.
















BTW, for all the guys with the 165 screenies posted, here's one of mine on nuthin but air.


----------



## cssorkinman

That beats my best , the FX-55 on water did 27 flat couldn't nudge it into the 26's.
I'll see what i can squeeze out of my vishera as a sub for the country cup , I've had it apart trying to wedge an H-100 in a lian li pc 9-F . I think it will work nicely, just have to make some mounting brackets with some rubber bushing to hold the radiator.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Thread cleaned up a little.


----------



## pioneerisloud

If you guys see that type of posting in here again please report it.







we don't allow return of the banned.


----------



## toughacton

Thanks pio! On a 939 related note, I'm thinking of trying my hand at delidding one of my surplus single cores. I still use a latch down bracket. Will I need to mod it at all to make up the difference in height without a lid? If so, how would I go about doing so? Also would I need to lap my HS that I use with a delidded CPU? Thanks!


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> If you guys see that type of posting in here again please report it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> we don't allow return of the banned.


Did I miss something?


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Thanks pio! On a 939 related note, I'm thinking of trying my hand at delidding one of my surplus single cores. I still use a latch down bracket. Will I need to mod it at all to make up the difference in height without a lid? If so, how would I go about doing so? Also would I need to lap my HS that I use with a delidded CPU? Thanks!


You need to get you hands on a cheap 212+ or similar type HS and do the "939 mod". I'll post pics if you're interested. This works on lidded or de-lidded CPU's.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> If you guys see that type of posting in here again please report it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> we don't allow return of the banned.


I thought we were only supposed to report spam, but when I finally got fed up with it I noticed there was an option to report for other stuff as well.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Somebody say 939 contest? I'll play.


I'm in as well if anything is going down guys.
Let me know.....


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> You need to get you hands on a cheap 212+ or similar type HS and do the "939 mod". I'll post pics if you're interested. This works on lidded or de-lidded CPU's.


ooo yes please







Also I'm trying to get a "dead" SLI-DR board working. I've got 4 lights that don't go away like my working board. When I got it, it looked like the socket was dirty with some TIM, so I cleaned it off, but I never could get it to post. Ive only got one stick of working memory in the far orange slot, a working cpu, and I've reset cmos a bunch. Only have a vid card and essentials hooked up. Any hints? Is there any hard cmos reset procedure for this board?


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> ooo yes please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also I'm trying to get a "dead" SLI-DR board working. I've got 4 lights that don't go away like my working board. When I got it, it looked like the socket was dirty with some TIM, so I cleaned it off, but I never could get it to post. Ive only got one stick of working memory in the far orange slot, a working cpu, and I've reset cmos a bunch. Only have a vid card and essentials hooked up. Any hints? Is there any hard cmos reset procedure for this board?


That looks to be the "4 LED's of death" you've just described but not all is lost yet.
Sometimes a corrupt BIOS could cause this, sometimes it's due to a bad stick of RAM/RAM problem or some other ailment. It's possible to use circuit board cleaner without acetone to hit the CPU socket with for some cleaning but once you do, let it sit overnight to dry out with a small fan on this area to ensure complete drying.

A hard CMOS reset procedure is the same with any board, remove the CMOS battery overnight, reinstall the battery and try it.


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> That looks to be the "4 LED's of death" you've just described but not all is lost yet.
> Sometimes a corrupt BIOS could cause this, sometimes it's due to a bad stick of RAM/RAM problem or some other ailment. It's possible to use circuit board cleaner without acetone to hit the CPU socket with for some cleaning but once you do, let it sit overnight to dry out with a small fan on this area to ensure complete drying.
> A hard CMOS reset procedure is the same with any board, remove the CMOS battery overnight, reinstall the battery and try it.


Thanks, I'll try again sometime to get it going. I did try swapping the bios chip with my working board, but I didn't try for long for fear of messing up my working bios chip. I may try testing the questionable bios chip in my working board and see if its working. If that works then it will eliminate at least one variable. I have a feeling it may just be the socket or some other not easily replaced component (northbridge ect.). I only paid 8 bucks for it, so its not like I'm out much if I can't get it running.







Plus i got a 3500 winchester and some ocz plats that do work as well as some of the accessories. I think between the 2 boards I have now got all the accessories that would have come with a SLI-DR originally.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> ooo yes please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also I'm trying to get a "dead" SLI-DR board working. I've got 4 lights that don't go away like my working board. When I got it, it looked like the socket was dirty with some TIM, so I cleaned it off, but I never could get it to post. Ive only got one stick of working memory in the far orange slot, a working cpu, and I've reset cmos a bunch. Only have a vid card and essentials hooked up. Any hints? Is there any hard cmos reset procedure for this board?


Pic of 939 mod for the 212+. Basically, you're using the stock mobo backplate with longer screws threaded in from the bottom and waterblock type hardware to hold the crossbar down. Pics are worth a thousand words.











I'll add a pic of it mounted shortly. I'm setting that platform up to bench again before the weekend.

Also, here is the proper hard reset instructions. Follow them exactly. Saved this from the old DFI Street when I was a member there.








Quote:


> The proper Clear CMOS recovery. Not to be confused with a Normal CMOS Clear.
> 
> You can not use a USB keyboard for this procedure. You must use a PS2 keyboard.
> 
> You will need your manual to find the jumpers that must be changed.
> 
> If you skip or miss any step you must start again since the results will not be valid.
> 
> Remove power from the rig by pulling the plug or switching the PSU off.
> 
> Move the PC Speaker jumper to the ON position.
> 
> Remove the Battery.
> 
> Move the CMOS jumper to CLEAR.
> 
> Press the Start Button on the case or motherboard to drain the capacitors.
> 
> You may leave the board in this condition for as long as it takes to clear the CMOS. If a short 30 second clear or a 15 minute clear doesn't work, try an 8 hour clear.
> 
> Plug in a PS2 Keyboard.
> 
> Put one stick of RAM in the slot marked DIMM2.
> 
> Move the CMOS jumper to Normal.
> 
> Replace the Battery.
> 
> Press and hold the Insert Key on the Keyboard.
> 
> Apply power to the rig by plugging the power in or using the switch on the PSU.
> 
> Press the Start Button to power the rig up.
> 
> When you hear the BEEP, release the Insert Key and press the Delete Key on the Keyboard.
> 
> Once you enter the BIOS set the DATE and TIME then Load Optimized Defaults.
> 
> Save and Exit.
> 
> Enter the BIOS again and set it up the way you want for your particular rig.


----------



## Cyrious

Well gents its been a great run, but my 939 system has given up the ghost (failed motherboard, been acting up ever since i got it) and i have decided to sell off what's left to make some money. Hopefully alongside the Phenom II quad, board, 8 gigs DDR2, and intel 120GB ssd, i'll have enough to get my main rig off LGA 775 and up to LGA 1366.

I'll still keep the 939 board, as a reminder of my first real rig.


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Pic of 939 mod for the 212+. Basically, you're using the stock mobo backplate with longer screws threaded in from the bottom and waterblock type hardware to hold the crossbar down. Pics are worth a thousand words.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll add a pic of it mounted shortly. I'm setting that platform up to bench again before the weekend.
> Also, here is the proper hard reset instructions. Follow them exactly. Saved this from the old DFI Street when I was a member there.


Excellent Mr. Scott Thanks! +1 for you I cetainly wouldn't have known or thought to do the insert key thing.


----------



## SwishaMane

Ill throw down on some 939 contest.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Hey Swish, long time no see.


----------



## N2Gaming

I sold the Expert and the SLI DR is by no means capable of Expert overclocks so I think I would not be able to put up much competition


----------



## CrazyMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Pic of 939 mod for the 212+. Basically, you're using the stock mobo backplate with longer screws threaded in from the bottom and waterblock type hardware to hold the crossbar down. Pics are worth a thousand words.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll add a pic of it mounted shortly. I'm setting that platform up to bench again before the weekend.
> Also, here is the proper hard reset instructions. Follow them exactly. Saved this from the old DFI Street when I was a member there.


Tks, this will be helpfull for sure!


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Ill throw down on some 939 contest.


Seems to still be plenty of interest amongst the 939 crowd, would be a shame to waste all this cold winter air too


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Seems to still be plenty of interest amongst the 939 crowd, would be a shame to waste all this cold winter air too


Hear! Hear!









I'm just waiting to see who comes up with what.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Seems to still be plenty of interest amongst the 939 crowd, would be a shame to waste all this cold winter air too


Don't need winter when you have a chiller.


----------



## SwishaMane

I got a new opty 180 I played with a little, I think its 2.8 right now, but I dont mess with my 939 rig everyday. Its a backup rig. Mebbe I can post some screens after awhile.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Hey Swish, long time no see.


Yo


----------



## Cyrious

Anyone need some average tier 939 stuff? I got a dualie and 4 gigs of DDR333 (will do 400, a voltage bump might be needed) up for grabs on the marketplace.


----------



## SwishaMane

Just wanted to post my newest 24/7 OC on my 939 backup rig. 8800gtx is flashed for highest stable OC on stock voltage, is about to get a vmod. Hopefully my old ES can handle some OC'ing again on 1.8vCore and I can set some new personal 3dmark06 scores on my 939 / 2GB / 8800gtx setup like the old days.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Just wanted to post my newest 24/7 OC on my 939 backup rig. 8800gtx is flashed for highest stable OC on stock voltage, is about to get a vmod. Hopefully my old ES can handle some OC'ing again on 1.8vCore and I can set some new personal 3dmark06 scores on my 939 / 2GB / 8800gtx setup like the old days.


Nice








I took advantage of the cold winter air and got my first 10000+ 3D06 score with my X2 939 and 9800Gt


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took advantage of the cold winter air and got my first 10000+ 3D06 score with my X2 939 and 9800Gt


I just got 10k almost even on 3dmark06 1.20 today with this setup.



Is this YOU Mr. Scott? If so, prepare for total annihilation with my new opty 144 and mobo combo. All your base are belong to MEEEEE! lol

And I started vmodding my 8800 by getting measuring area setup.


----------



## nategr8ns

Niiiiice







. Is that stock cooling on the 8800 though? I thought they already tended to run hot... my 8800gt did.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*
> 
> Niiiiice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Is that stock cooling on the 8800 though? I thought they already tended to run hot... my 8800gt did.


No, the 8800 has had an arctic accelero on it since i bought it YEARS ago from the original owner. Card runs 42 - 44C idle with OC on stock volts, 80% fan speed. Tops off at 54C during a 3dmark06 run. Figure I got a good 20C headroom on heat with overvolt. 75C is about as high as i wanna go. Wouldnt hurt to get TIM re-applied and the whole thing cleaned up before I finish vmod.

My only concern with my vmod, is the OVP and OCP, I plan to increase it by adding a 1.2kohm resistor to the 5 spots you need one to increase over current and over voltage, but IDK if I can use regular resistors or if I NEED to use SMD type.

I WANT to use these...



Because they can be soldered right on top of existing SMD resistors to increase OCP and OVP, but I cant really get these in the quantity i need. I dont need 100x or 500x... I need like 5, lol

So I might be stuck with these...



IDK if it'll work the exact same, or how important the resistors watt rating is. Most SMD types are 1/4watt, figure that is safe, but the carbon ones have 1/2, 1w, 3w... IDK what to get to stay safe.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Because they can be soldered right on top of existing SMD resistors to increase OCP and OVP,


So you're only using the resistors to _decrease_ resistance in a few places?

Also, you should be fine with the cheap carbon ones, but I would definitely be careful of the current that ends up passing through them.


----------



## SwishaMane

The resistors are part of the overall vmod, ocp and ovp... Normal ocp kicks in from my research by ppl who start to touch the 1.55 - 1.6v barrier. I want 1.65 for overhead, and need the overcurrent, so I need to solder 4 1.2kohm resistors to each SMD like here...



You can see the 122 (or 1.2kohm) resistor stacked on top the stock SMD. Wanna keep it clean, so SMD or carbon resistors are wanted. I could always use variable pots, and adjust them for almost w/e ocp and ovp I wanted, but it would look hideous, and no room for 6 pots across whole board. I barely have enough room for the two I need for vgpu and vmem adjustments. Thanks, ill probably opt for carbon because they available in small quantities... Unless you know someone who needs 95x 1.2kohm resistors... I only need 4 or 5... lol

EDIT: Im just trying to get prepared and get a solid grip on this mod. All my info is from guides, pics and people talking from this forum in old threads, and other forums. Im not sure if adding the 1.2k resistor will give me exactly 1.65v before ovp kicks in, but Im hoping to get enough to get higher stable OC w/o modding the alrdy decent cooling. Im realistically looking for 1.5vGPU, with as low as 1.4 load, maybe 1.35. I want to add caps too, but I can barely find any info on it.


----------



## Fa11ou7

Well my poor ole 939 system is hurting today. Just randomly the other day the CPU fan started running full speed and there was a burning electronics smell. I pulled the heatsink off to check the thermal paste but it seemed fine (maybe a bit too much) but I cleaned it off and reaplied with the dot method. It seemed to run a little better but in the morning it had blue screened. As a final save I pulled the Opteron out and put my old Athlon 64 back in and it seems to confirm that the the Opteron is failing. This is my previous gaming rig and my wife has been using it while she finishes up her PA program so obviously its not being pushed hard. I guess its time to start look at retiring my poor old 939 and building another system, kind of sad to see it go though.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Is this YOU Mr. Scott? If so, prepare for total annihilation with my new opty 144 and mobo combo. All your base are belong to MEEEEE! lol


Soft entry on air only.








No CB on that CPU either. Bring it on.


----------



## SwishaMane

Well, Im having a hard time vmodding my 8800... thought I bricked it twice when SMDs decided to break off from random dumb ish. Mad genius soldering skills for the win. Ive brought this card back from the dead twice this week. Blew a vgpu pot somehow between setting ohms and booting rig, bad ground I think. IDK, not looking good, but card is sustaining good voltage during load... Volts are actually going up from idle... Idle 1.283, load during 3dm06, 1.288, and holds it.

Wish me luck. New DFI nF4 Ultra Infinity came in, I upgraded non existent VRM cooling with heatsinks I bonded on with Arctic Silver thermal adhesive. Cheap little ones, but they fit perfect.


----------



## gtoforce

dear brothers,

i have been reading reviews at overclock.net but have never tried joining the forums until i saw the 939 appreciation club
im from malaysia btw

i have two s939 platforms running at home (aside from my socket am3+ - sabertooth 990fx)

the specs are as below:

AMD Athlon FX-60 @ 2.60ghz (used to Oc to 2.9ghz) on Thermalright Ultra-120 EX
Asus A8R32MVP-Deluxe
3gb Ram
Gainward HD4870 1gb GS
Sapphire HD4870 512mb (Crossfired)
Silverstone Olympia 1000w
1tb + 500gb HDD (Sata 2)
Windows Vista Business 32bit SP2
Cooler Master Ammo 255

AMD Athlon FX-53 @ 2.4ghz on CM Hyper 212
MSI K8N Diamond Plus
3gb Ram
MSI Geforce 7900GT
MSI Gefore 7900GT (SLi)
OCZ Z-series 1000w
80gb + 80gb + 250gb (IDE 5400rpm)
Windows XP PRo 32bit
Thermaltake V4 BE

i have some questions and they are as follows:-

i) can an installation of windows 7 / 8 be done on a socket 939 platform? my concerns actually arose because of bios updates and whether the bios can support the new OS. i am afraid if any upgrade is being done, it will be pointless as the OS would not recognize the board and chipset etc.

ii) installation of a PCIE 3.0 GPU (e.g. Radeon 7970) on a socket 939 platform. i have tried running a pcie 2.1 GPU (single card) i.e. the HD 5830 on both specs but the pc wont boot to bios. the card is no problem as it can boot in my other pc's including my socket AM3+ motherboard. i am just wondering because sometimes the specs are meant for my other siblings to game also.

iii) if question to (ii) is a yay, then can the GPU be crossfired?

thanks for your time.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gtoforce*
> 
> dear brothers,
> i have been reading reviews at overclock.net but have never tried joining the forums until i saw the 939 appreciation club
> im from malaysia btw
> i have two s939 platforms running at home (aside from my socket am3+ - sabertooth 990fx)
> the specs are as below:
> AMD Athlon FX-60 @ 2.60ghz (used to Oc to 2.9ghz) on Thermalright Ultra-120 EX
> Asus A8R32MVP-Deluxe
> 3gb Ram
> Gainward HD4870 1gb GS
> Sapphire HD4870 512mb (Crossfired)
> Silverstone Olympia 1000w
> 1tb + 500gb HDD (Sata 2)
> Windows Vista Business 32bit SP2
> Cooler Master Ammo 255
> AMD Athlon FX-53 @ 2.4ghz on CM Hyper 212
> MSI K8N Diamond Plus
> 3gb Ram
> MSI Geforce 7900GT
> MSI Gefore 7900GT (SLi)
> OCZ Z-series 1000w
> 80gb + 80gb + 250gb (IDE 5400rpm)
> Windows XP PRo 32bit
> Thermaltake V4 BE
> i have some questions and they are as follows:-
> i) can an installation of windows 7 / 8 be done on a socket 939 platform? my concerns actually arose because of bios updates and whether the bios can support the new OS. i am afraid if any upgrade is being done, it will be pointless as the OS would not recognize the board and chipset etc.
> ii) installation of a PCIE 3.0 GPU (e.g. Radeon 7970) on a socket 939 platform. i have tried running a pcie 2.1 GPU (single card) i.e. the HD 5830 on both specs but the pc wont boot to bios. the card is no problem as it can boot in my other pc's including my socket AM3+ motherboard. i am just wondering because sometimes the specs are meant for my other siblings to game also.
> iii) if question to (ii) is a yay, then can the GPU be crossfired?
> thanks for your time.


I've ran windows 7 on my MSI K8N neo 4 board with an FX-55 on it, with gpu's 6600 gt , 9800gt, 4870, and a gtx460 without problems. Not sure if it means anything as far as going with a 7970 , that's an awful lot of video card for our old 939's to try to push. In my opinion something like the gtx 460 would be a more practical way to go. Or if you wanted a dx 11 radeon card something like the 7770 might be a good match for that system.

Any experts out there that can give him a more definitive answer?

I did recall having some trouble finding drivers for my old motherboard for windows 7 , but they are out there.


----------



## nategr8ns

BIOS really doesn't interact with the OS so much... its all pretty standardized.


----------



## gtoforce

i have read that the 4870 is the max it could go (that includes the 4870x2)

so for dx11 only the paltry 7770?
haha

oh i thought bios and os interact all these while
thanks
but drivers shouldnt be a problem then eh?
hmmm....i might install it next mnth or so and see how it goes
but im bored with the current dx9 and dx10.1 cards
haha


----------



## toughacton

I know that win 7 64 bit works on my DFI sli-dr board just fine. It even ran on only 2 gigs ram. Also I've run a HD 6450 no prob, but its a 2.0 card. I have a HD 6790 thats a 2.1 i could try. In theory the card should work, but will be horribly bottlenecked by the PCI 1.0 speed and bandwidth, so not really worth wasting on the older board if you have another option.


----------



## SwishaMane

A gtx 285 bottlenecks on 939, let alone anything newer. 285s were beast mode for single GPU not too long ago.


----------



## xzamples

check my sig i have two 939 rigs









will they be worth anything ($$$$) now?

since i'm building a newer rig i have no use for them and want to sell them


----------



## CrazyMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gtoforce*
> 
> dear brothers,
> i have been reading reviews at overclock.net but have never tried joining the forums until i saw the 939 appreciation club
> im from malaysia btw
> i have two s939 platforms running at home (aside from my socket am3+ - sabertooth 990fx)
> the specs are as below:
> AMD Athlon FX-60 @ 2.60ghz (used to Oc to 2.9ghz) on Thermalright Ultra-120 EX
> Asus A8R32MVP-Deluxe
> 3gb Ram
> Gainward HD4870 1gb GS
> Sapphire HD4870 512mb (Crossfired)
> Silverstone Olympia 1000w
> 1tb + 500gb HDD (Sata 2)
> Windows Vista Business 32bit SP2
> Cooler Master Ammo 255
> AMD Athlon FX-53 @ 2.4ghz on CM Hyper 212
> MSI K8N Diamond Plus
> 3gb Ram
> MSI Geforce 7900GT
> MSI Gefore 7900GT (SLi)
> OCZ Z-series 1000w
> 80gb + 80gb + 250gb (IDE 5400rpm)
> Windows XP PRo 32bit
> Thermaltake V4 BE
> i have some questions and they are as follows:-
> i) can an installation of windows 7 / 8 be done on a socket 939 platform? my concerns actually arose because of bios updates and whether the bios can support the new OS. i am afraid if any upgrade is being done, it will be pointless as the OS would not recognize the board and chipset etc.
> ii) installation of a PCIE 3.0 GPU (e.g. Radeon 7970) on a socket 939 platform. i have tried running a pcie 2.1 GPU (single card) i.e. the HD 5830 on both specs but the pc wont boot to bios. the card is no problem as it can boot in my other pc's including my socket AM3+ motherboard. i am just wondering because sometimes the specs are meant for my other siblings to game also.
> iii) if question to (ii) is a yay, then can the GPU be crossfired?
> thanks for your time.


Nice rigs u got there...









Answering your questions:

i - As someone said before, BIOS has nothing to do with the SO, the only thing that can carry some problems with the software is the hardware itself, so as you can see bellow, the 1st rig has no drivers support from ASUS as u can see here: (http://usa.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_Socket_939/A8R32MVP_Deluxe/#download) as far as the second rig, MSI has Windows Seven (x86 and x64) support on their site (http://www.msi.com/product/mb/K8N-Diamond-Plus.html#/?div=Driver&os=Win7%2064). For the 1st rig I dare to say that you might try to install windows 7 and find the drivers by yourself, if you can't change the CPU's to get more juice on the MSI for the Windows 7

ii - PCIE3 grafics works fine on PCIE 16x... I have a DFI NF4 ULTRA D and it runs fine with a GTX670, but it insane to use it for 24/7 cuz u gonna get huge bottleneck. With those rigs the best you can get to get all the juice of it's a GTX260 or a GTX275, even though it will bootleneck...

iii - For SLI try some 8800GTS 512MB (G92) for Crossfire Try one HD4870 1gb in substitution of your Sapphire 512MB to get 2GB!

I hope that i can help with your doubts...

Cheers!


----------



## N0NAM3

Well, some sad news my 3800+ x2 toledo has given up the ghost D:, oh well all good things must come to an end i suppose. It had a long life, maybe i will glue it to my wall or something lol


----------



## Schmuckley

hmm..i have a windsor.owait..939 an am2 are different..with same names :


----------



## gtoforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyMonkey*
> 
> Nice rigs u got there...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Answering your questions:
> i - As someone said before, BIOS has nothing to do with the SO, the only thing that can carry some problems with the software is the hardware itself, so as you can see bellow, the 1st rig has no drivers support from ASUS as u can see here: (http://usa.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_Socket_939/A8R32MVP_Deluxe/#download) as far as the second rig, MSI has Windows Seven (x86 and x64) support on their site (http://www.msi.com/product/mb/K8N-Diamond-Plus.html#/?div=Driver&os=Win7%2064). For the 1st rig I dare to say that you might try to install windows 7 and find the drivers by yourself, if you can't change the CPU's to get more juice on the MSI for the Windows 7
> ii - PCIE3 grafics works fine on PCIE 16x... I have a DFI NF4 ULTRA D and it runs fine with a GTX670, but it insane to use it for 24/7 cuz u gonna get huge bottleneck. With those rigs the best you can get to get all the juice of it's a GTX260 or a GTX275, even though it will bootleneck...
> iii - For SLI try some 8800GTS 512MB (G92) for Crossfire Try one HD4870 1gb in substitution of your Sapphire 512MB to get 2GB!
> I hope that i can help with your doubts...
> Cheers!


thanks a lot bro
asus should have supported the s939 motherboard
haha

im still in love with those rigs
they can still perform daily tasks and multitask too (even the fx-53 isnt too shabby)

thank u for the GPU Suggestions
i'll try and suit the first rig with perhaps 2x 4870X2 hahaha
as for the SLI, yeah maybe 8800GTS or GTX


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> As someone said before, BIOS has nothing to do with the SO, the only thing that can carry some problems with the software is the hardware itself, so as you can see bellow, the 1st rig has no drivers support from ASUS as u can see here: (http://usa.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_Socket_939/A8R32MVP_Deluxe/#download)


99% of the time the Vista 64 drivers will work on W7. Give it a shot.


----------



## N2Gaming

You know guys my only gripe is not ever having a A8N32 to play with. Although I gotta admit I sure love my M2N32's enough to know that the A8N32 was a solid board. Seriously though the DFI NF4's were the 939 boards to have


----------



## RyanMicah

You're in luck.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*
> 
> You know guys my only gripe is not ever having a A8N32 to play with. Although I gotta admit I sure love my M2N32's enough to know that the A8N32 was a solid board. Seriously though the DFI NF4's were the 939 boards to have


Have one of those and it's a good one. I used to have two but made a deal sometime ago and now I only have the one that's left. The DFI's are really the best for OC'ing overall but the A8N32's seem just as capable of holding their own in 3D benching, esp SLI'ed - That's probrably the one area they can actually beat the DFI's but I've never done a head-to-head comparison to know for sure.


----------



## N2Gaming

Yeah I know. I had one for a minute I got on Ebay but it was as dud thus I had to send it back







I stopped seaching shortly after. I know I can get this Opty 180 humming in one of my boards one of these days. It just seems like so much work any more to do it for so little bennefit


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> The DFI's are really the best for OC'ing overall but the A8N32's seem just as capable of holding their own in 3D benching, esp SLI'ed - That's probrably the one area they can actually beat the DFI's but I've never done a head-to-head comparison to know for sure.


I had both. Sold the Asus board. That should tell you which was the better board.








You already know I don't usually get rid of anything.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> I had both. Sold the Asus board. That should tell you which was the better board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You already know I don't usually get rid of anything.


Yes it does tell me.








I'd never tried them vs each other to know but I'll go with that of course. Nowadays with good 939 boards not as easy to come by, I'll keep what I've got, DFI's and all if it still works.


----------



## N2Gaming

Yes DFI's are built like a tank. Like Kryton said ASUS may of had better SLI performance and I wonder if the ASUS ever had any issues reading and using RAM like the DFI boards do?


----------



## blooder11181

i did fix some dfi nforce 4 (sli and non-sli) board by bios update to work on dual-channel mode.


----------



## RyanMicah

Dual Chanel. LOL Sounds prissy.


----------



## blooder11181

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyanMicah*
> 
> Dual Channel. LOL Sounds prissy.


double fix


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*
> 
> Yes DFI's are built like a tank. Like Kryton said ASUS may of had better SLI performance and I wonder if the ASUS ever had any issues reading and using RAM like the DFI boards do?


ATM I'm letting my A8N32 run heavily OC'ed to see what it can still do. Popped in the Opty 180, clocked it up and it's outside at the benchshack doing it's thing.
Setting up my rad to take advantage of the cold weather that's currently here is helping things along since keeping the coolant cold is important and plenty of cold outside where the rad is comes in handy - Plus there are NO condensation issues since the shack itself is also at outdoor ambient temps .


----------



## dlee7283

ebay is still wanting like 30 bucks for a dual core 939.....

Too bad those Asrock 939 785g boards never were mainstream here in the US. I have an Athlon 3700 that would have been nice in a basic win7 machine. Oh well, aint paying 100 bucks to get one from some guy in England or the Netherlands.

939 is still expensive considering its age. Its only saving grace for so long was that it had PCI Express/SLI and dual core/channel support. As of 2013 why even bother unless your just bored? I found a Core 2 Duo e6300 on ebay for much cheaper than even a single core Opteron 939. To bad the price never went down enough to enjoy it like I wanted to.

and why even use it for HTPC purposes if a good processor and card to upgrade it will cost more than a NEW AMD Bobcat type setup that could be fanless. If you need a main rig you could get like a FX-4100 and motherboard for like 100 bucks at Microcenter and a thousand other variables that make more sense than upgrading 939. The platform is still viable for a basic web machine for relatives, but in any other sense....

My guess is some people have like 4 gigs of DDR1 and can't bear the thought of letting it go for some reason. A used stick of 4gb of ddr3 is only like 20 bucks. I guess I am missing something about the fascination with this platform. AM2+ aged a boat load better than 939 IMHO. There are AM2+ boards that even run Piledriver.


----------



## Cyrious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlee7283*
> 
> ebay is still wanting like 30 bucks for a dual core 939.....
> 
> Too bad those Asrock 939 785g boards never were mainstream here in the US. I have an Athlon 3700 that would have been nice in a basic win7 machine. Oh well, aint paying 100 bucks to get one from some guy in England or the Netherlands.
> 
> 939 is still expensive considering its age. Its only saving grace for so long was that it had PCI Express/SLI and dual core/channel support. As of 2013 why even bother unless your just bored? I found a Core 2 Duo e6300 on ebay for much cheaper than even a single core Opteron 939. To bad the price never went down enough to enjoy it like I wanted to.
> 
> and why even use it for HTPC purposes if a good processor and card to upgrade it will cost more than a NEW AMD Bobcat type setup that could be fanless. If you need a main rig you could get like a FX-4100 and motherboard for like 100 bucks at Microcenter and a thousand other variables that make more sense than upgrading 939. The platform is still viable for a basic web machine for relatives, but in any other sense....
> 
> My guess is some people have like 4 gigs of DDR1 and can't bear the thought of letting it go for some reason. A used stick of 4gb of ddr3 is only like 20 bucks. I guess I am missing something about the fascination with this platform. AM2+ aged a boat load better than 939 IMHO. There are AM2+ boards that even run Piledriver.


Because its fun to play around with, especially considering it comes from the time when AMD was curbstomping intel in performance/watt (lol netburst). If you dont like it, then leave the thread and let us enjoy our old systems in peace.


----------



## dlee7283

"also comes from a time when AMD stomped Intel" is not a good counterargument at all. What does that even have to do with today.

Never said anyone wasn't allowed to like 939,I was merely venting on the prices of 939 parts....


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlee7283*
> 
> "also comes from a time when AMD stomped Intel" is not a good counterargument at all. What does that even have to do with today.


The fact a Socket A can still whip the crap out of a P3 and even some P4's is still true = relevant today - That's hasn't changed one bit.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlee7283*
> 
> "
> Never said anyone wasn't allowed to like 939,I was merely venting on the prices of 939 parts....


Doesn't matter - The prices are what they are and if you did see a dual core 939 for $30, must have been one of the crappy ones or the seller didn't know/care about what they have.
I'm not saying these are relevant today related to being the newest or best since they are not BUT they are still useable if need be. Nothing wrong with a 939 setup and like the prices, they are what they are as well.
I still have mine and have every intent of enjoying it for as long as I can.


----------



## nategr8ns

I dreamt last night that I found a clean aluminum full tower sitting outside of the machine shop here as scrap, with a naked SLI-DR inside... lol


----------



## rhkcommander959

I can't believe I'm not in this club...

I still have at least one running DFI CFX 3200, got one that doesn't cold bug! The first three had cold boot bugs but were beasts... Was running stable at 3.2 ghz upper limit of 3.4 with a 3800x2, and I think 3.1 with an opteron 165 but ran it at 3. Delidded of course!









Bought a peltier setup for socket A and replaced the 226w pelt, the meanwell psu was fine. Two 120 rads, pelt block (mcw-5002 IIRC), d4 laing pump. 20$ at a garage sale. Owner didn't say what happened but I would guess he wired the peltier backwards and popped his socket a chip







so for a few more bucks I bought a new peltier and tubing, cleaned the parts and ordered some neoprene and dialectic grease. And a plate to mount to 939 instead of the clips of socket a. Modded my case and ran both rads and ran it that way a few years nice and cold.

Need a new base-plate made up for the block though so I can use it for TEC cooling again. Right now I have it mounted as a plain waterblock against a xeon w3570









With those two processors I had 4x512mb crucial ballistix tracers ddr 500 that cost me a lot back then. Assembled a fan holder and put two blue led fans on them with a gap showing off the blinky parts. They ran hot when pushed but the fans kept them nice and cool, got over ddr 600 when bored one day, memtest'ing as I went. I think the memory controller bugged out around 620-630 but its been a while so I forget the exact details. I'm pretty sure I took a video though. If not I can always try again







Oh and started with a Sapphire x1300xt, then a1650 pro with 512mb but it wasn't enough so i got a x1950 pro for video. Always wanted to do second one in crossfire but the game support wasn't there to justify it. Eventually got a HIS 3870 and then a second one before going q6600 after trying and not liking the phenom 1s on launch. Kept the dfi 790 fx but not the phenom x4 9600 black edition (big fail)... Then got a abit ip35 pro and q6600 and ran dual 3870s andddd... enough history there









Anyway this build was my first just for me high performance build, so I haven't had any reason to sell it. Wouldn't be worth much anyway as its in a gray area, i7 1366 processors are as low as 100$ with patience - cheaper than some q9x50's! Last summer it was still playing Left 4 Dead 2 and Crysis 2 on my 30" monitor (of course not full res/settings LOL). With PCIe 1.0a, it won't work with AMD cards. But NVIDIA cards still work. I had it running with a GTS 450. I just tried a GTX 650 yesterday and it worked fine. I know its overkill but it is neat that it still runs. So then I decided to try a SSD since I thought the BIOS wouldn't support them, popped in a 120gb patriot wildfire and it booted into the windows install!

I'm not kidding myself, I know at 3.2 ghz its close to a stock e6600. But I didn't need the peltier for that speed either IIRC. Wouldn't mind getting a cherry picked chip that could sustain higher but thats a diamond in the rough and costly... The board has plenty of features of new ones - dual x16, dual LAN, and so on. Plus I have a USB 3.0 card to slap into the 1x slot







and see if it works. If I could get 4GB of decent mem on it, then it would be fine for most things. I've had several 939 systems and any of them with a dual core and 2+ gb of dual channel non-junk memory (at least 400 with decent timings) could and still can do more than just web browsing lol... I already have all the parts except higher capacity mem, and I already have a 2600k and w3570 for workhorses.

I'll dig up some videos/photos


----------



## rhkcommander959

Didn't see how to edit, my apologies... (edit: and I just found it







)

I can't link small pictures or OCN tries to import them so sorry if it lags someone


----------



## Kryton

Nice stuff!


----------



## cssorkinman

They had one of those DFI cfx 3200 boards on Ebay a while back , listed as "NEW OTHER" they wanted $80 for it , I probably should have given it a shot.
Nice rig you have there 959


----------



## rhkcommander959

Thanks







I'll try to find some other pics and bench it again when its up and running again.

Might get a vertex 2E or two for it


----------



## SwishaMane

Hey guys, got my new 939 setup tuned up great, waiting on my opty 185 that does 2.8ghz on stock volts. I have a question tho...

What does Memclock mode do in BIOS? Its options are Update and Limit. Anyone?


----------



## cssorkinman

I was thinking that it sets the ram at - 133/166/200.
Seems like on older boards it was set with a jumper , but later ones allowed for it in bios. Am I correct or is my old age catching up to me?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Hey guys, got my new 939 setup tuned up great, waiting on my opty 185 that does 2.8ghz on stock volts. I have a question tho...
> 
> What does Memclock mode do in BIOS? Its options are Update and Limit. Anyone?


Just a wild guess here w/o a google search sounds like some kind of CnQ feature to allow ram to underclock w/the cpu


----------



## SwishaMane

Hmm... I left it at limit because this new setup is super stable, and dont wanna screw with it. It is in the memory configuration screen, with divider, all the timings, etc... Ill leave it alone. Isnt hurting anything. My Corsair TWINX Plats are 2-3-2-5-10-15-1t stable at 2.8v up to 215mhz, which was 302fsb x 8.5 at 150 divider I think... AWESOME!









And to the s939 hater... COME AT ME BRO! lol We like 939 because they hit a note with us. They are fun to play with, challenging to balance, and once 100% stable OC'd around the whole machine, they offer very good performance, and are capable for everyday computing even now-a-days. For some like me, its the first REAL socket we ever put a high end machine (at the time) together with... 939 WAS my first, one part at a time, learn this, and learn from that, high end building experience. An old Socket A machine was my first ever AMD PC, but it was garbage. I didnt know anything about computer then. And my s939 experience has lead me to what i have now, and what I leanred will go with me forever. They are just awesome!

939 has REALLY helped me get a grip on RAM timings for one, and how they work together. Having your RAM timings right is the FIRST thing to do on 939 before you OC the CPU... Should be for ALL machines... If that RAM aint stable, that machine aint stable... PLAIN AND SIMPLE.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> I was thinking that it sets the ram at - 133/166/200.
> Seems like on older boards it was set with a jumper , but later ones allowed for it in bios. Am I correct or is my old age catching up to me?


No old age there. You're correct, it's the memory dividers.
Quote:


> An old Socket A machine was my first ever AMD PC, but it was garbage. I didnt know anything about computer then.


Socket A is more fun than 939. It takes a little skill. Challenge yourself sometime.


----------



## SwishaMane

I have... Ive run a couple different socket A boards and CPU in the past few years, I bought one from you Mr. Scott, remember the neighbor kids tearing it open and had it die down on the cement steps?







I have a dual socket Tyan server board with twin Athlon MPs, and 4GB of DDR266, the board is bad tho. Damaged it with a normal PSU before I realized MP server boards had their own special ATX PSU pinout, got the converter, but it never ran right.





Ballin azz server case hm? Yeah, $25 shipped on eBay loaded with an old Pentium Pro telephony server... Unfortunately, sitting int he basement for a couple years left it nasty with residue of some sort, and would need sandblasted to clean and get shiny again... lol





And yeah, I take and keep pics of everything thats worth while...


----------



## RyanMicah

I have some old stuff Kyle, if you wanna give it a try. At least a Socket 7 with a couple of PSUs and chips and ram and maybe something even older. I bet I have enough for two working systems if I can find the right hands to tinker with them. I just resurrected a P4 551 system. No SATA, and its running Windows 2000 Pro.


----------



## RyanMicah

Try soaking that case in something. Orange Goo Gone removes a lot of stuff, and dish soap breaks down most oils. If you can determine what it is, paint thinner or alcohol might rub it clean?


----------



## rhkcommander959

Socket A was fun, good ole' gold finger modding. I made a nice setup for A for a friend, had a sempron 2800 I think. And either a NVIDIA 6200 or 6600. One day he tries to clean it, takes the heat sink off, scrapes two of those black foam pads off and cleans the TIM off the CPU and puts it back on. "Dude my computer stopped working", get over there and of course he nuked it.

First A I had was my real step up from a 333mhz slot 1 celeron. Ran it with 384mb sdr until I got some ddr and ran it at 512, then 1gb. PC-Chips board with both - two sdr two ddr slots. No overclocking options except ram dividers really. Pin and gold finger mods and I had that Palimino screaming







. Started out at 1.44ghz or so - I think it was a 1700+. Had it running fully stable at 1.7-something. Got bored one day after I had moved to 939 and wanted to see how high it could go, Got past 1.9 but I think 2ghz was the nail in the coffin for that processor


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyanMicah*
> 
> Try soaking that case in something. Orange Goo Gone removes a lot of stuff, and dish soap breaks down most oils. If you can determine what it is, paint thinner or alcohol might rub it clean?


Im not messing with any old hardware anymore, 939 is as far back I go unless im working on someone elses rig. I might try to clean this server case up tho, its built like a tank. I wanted to use it for my Dual socket 604 Intel server motherboard engineering sample i got, but its wATX, and doesnt fit by a hair.

Here's my new Opty 185 I got off RyanMicah this past weekend, 2.9 is as far as she goes, but look at that voltage! Yeah, 100% stable, mobo auto throttles up to 1.42vCore under 100% load, idles 1.392v... NICE CHIP!











RAM is dialed in hella good too!











And of course, Imma shoot for MOAR!


----------



## RyanMicah

Wow. What a week. I'm beat. I got on tv news this week, just doing my job...God that reporter was hot.

So, I'm trying to get this old LED display working. I think it's from 1996-97. Just 3 digits with periods between them, but it's pretty unique. It was from my folk's first PC.


----------



## poizone

I think I'm addicted to 939. I got this board for free, and I hate it more than you can imagine, but so far I've bought 2 9800GTX+ cards, a new cpu heatsink (Finding a 939 compatible one now sucks), a new northbridge sink (Low profile, can't fit a good one under the gfx cards), a 60GB SSD, an Opteron 165 to replace a dead FX 4200+, and now I have 2 gigs of ram and an Opty 180 on its way.

I'm addicted, and I love this architecture.


----------



## RyanMicah

You sure your 9800 GTX's aren't being bottlenecked by your CPU?


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poizone*
> 
> I think I'm addicted to 939. I got this board for free, and I hate it more than you can imagine, but so far I've bought 2 9800GTX+ cards, a new cpu heatsink (Finding a 939 compatible one now sucks), a new northbridge sink (Low profile, can't fit a good one under the gfx cards), a 60GB SSD, an Opteron 165 to replace a dead FX 4200+, and now I have 2 gigs of ram and an Opty 180 on its way.
> 
> I'm addicted, and I love this architecture.


If you love this one maybe you should check out AM3


----------



## poizone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*
> 
> If you love this one maybe you should check out AM3


Haha, I have an AM3 system, but it just doesn't bring the same feelings. Fun to OC, for sure, but there's just something about how finicky K8 is, and the unavailability of guaranteed speed. Of my three systems, I left my two most powerful at home and brought my k8 to school with me. My mac runs new games fine, and I have more fun trying to get weak overclocks out of this worn out board and used parts.

Speaking of, I'm having some problems with overclocking. I dropped my HT down to 3x and my ram multi to 166mhz, but I can't get over 228mhz stable FSB. 229 will last a few hours, but then refuse to post. 230-232 will post fine once, then last about two hours. 233, my main goal for this chip has posted once, and then immediately froze booting to mint. I have ram coming, so hopefully that's the problem, but even at 3-7-3 (rated 2.5-7-3) it's having problems. I'm starting to chalk it up to the board, but finding a replacement SLI compatible 939 board is tough. Any tips?


----------



## N2Gaming

run memtest at said spd's
check PSU w/DMM
run ram at speed closer to default ram spd and timing
add more voltage to the ram
place more fans over your mobo's mosfets & VRM's

IDK it could be any number of things including the CPU

Testing all your hardware individually one by one for it's weekness is the best way to get pointed in the right direction.


----------



## poizone

Thanks for the suggestion. I actually thought of that last night, and I've started to do the process of finding my optimum oc. So far I've hit my FSB stability limit at 239Mhz. Voltage does nothing, it's a brick wall. The next step I figured would be to get my HT up, but pushing that multi any is causing some problems. I know default is 5x on this board, but even at 2x it's not posting. Welcome to the world of compromised performance I guess. Time to back off my fsb till I find the highest multi I can push I guess. So long as I get 233fsb at my 9x cpu multi, I'm happy.

EDIT: Was there ever any effect on stability from getting an updated bios with these boards? I know the history of this one, and there are at least four newer bios versions I could try also.


----------



## SwishaMane

You wanna keep that ht below 1ghz, upwards of 1050 should be ok, but I stay between 800 and 1ghz... Use a prog called A64 Memory Helper, easy to use calculator to find good combos of FSB, divider, multipliers...

My technique for 939 OCing is pretty simple.

*Find RAM highest stable OC...*

1. Keep entire system stock, 200 x stock multi, and push vCore to about 1.44 to start. This includes RAM timings. Run Prime95 for 15 mins to see what general temps you're gonna be looking at.

2. Push FSB up to 204, and drop CPU multi til CPU is under stock freq. (Its ok for your, let say 2.6ghz, or 200x13 chip to run at 2.4 or 2.5 while finding RAM stability)

3. Prime for at least 30 mins. If your RAM isn't stable, prime will most likely fail within 30 mins...

4. Continue to push FSB is +4 increments, priming for 30 mins until an error... Back off in -1 increments until prime passes an hour.

5. Now that you have an idea of your RAM's stable OC, based on DRAM freq. in CPU-Z (FSB isnt important here, DRAM freq. is) you can mebbe tighten the timings a little, or leave them alone. For 939, tighter is better, but DRAM freq. plays a role too, I've balanced my Corsair Plats at a tight timing, and somewhat decent OC on freq.

If you're happy with the RAM's OC at timings on your choice, we can move onto Ocing the CPU...
*
Find CPU highest stable OC...*

1. Reset everything to stock, 200 x stock multi. Raise FSB high enough to push CPU to next 1ghz mark past stock, or 2.6 to 2.7, dropping the divider to one that keeps your RAM above 200, but under the highest stable DRAM freq. you were able to achieve in first OC technique. This is where A64 Memory Helper REALLY come in handy.

2. Continue to play with the numbers in A64 Mem Helper until you can prime the system, and it errors from CPU OC, of course, maintaining that your RAM is above 200mhz, and under the max stable OC you were able to achieve. Keep in mind temps, maybe booosting vCore to CPU a little if you have temp. headroom, and voltage to the RAM is sufficient. Shouldnt need more then 2.8v for most DDR.

Thats the best I can write for a guide in my allotted time right now. Just OC RAM stable first, then CPU, then balance best of both, keeping all factors in check, including ht link below 1ghz, and above 800mhz. Take some pics of your BIOS screens / settings, and we can chime in a little if we see anything.


----------



## poizone

Thanks for the guide, very useful. I started my overclocking the wrong way by getting sandy bridge right off the bat. Time to learn how to do this the cool way! I'll be back with my experiences.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poizone*
> 
> Thanks for the guide, very useful. I started my overclocking the wrong way by getting sandy bridge right off the bat. Time to learn how to do this the cool way! I'll be back with my experiences.


IDK if you've disclosed this, but can you list the main parts of your 939 setup, make and model, so we have a clue. Like me,

DFI nF4 Ultra Infinity

Opteron 185

2 x 1GB Corsair Platinums

8800gtx

Corsair TX650 PSU

640GB WD Black.

I can do 214Mhz at 2-3-2-5-10-15-1t, 2.8v...







Currently at 2.9ghz, 207mhz DRAM... Watercooled of course.









What are your temps btw?


----------



## poizone

Motherboard: MSI K8N-SLI F
CPU: Opteron 160 (180 on the way)
Ram: 2x 512MB sticks (Agrevia on the chips, 2x 1GB of G.Skill on the way)
Graphics: EVGA 9800GTX+ (Have two, will SLI at some point)
PSU: hec 650w
SSD: 60GB OCZ Agility 3

And the best part

Case: Milk Crate


----------



## SwishaMane

Baller case is ballin... Cool man, IDK much about that motherboard. Good luck on the 180. I got one and it was a dub... stock 2.4, wouldnt stay stable past 2.620, would boot windows as high as 2.850 tho, so mebbe its just a little damaged. Came from China, what I expect? But Ive got my cherry 185 that does 2.9 at 1.4v, so... w/e, lol


----------



## poizone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Baller case is ballin... Cool man, IDK much about that motherboard. Good luck on the 180. I got one and it was a dub... stock 2.4, wouldnt stay stable past 2.620, would boot windows as high as 2.850 tho, so mebbe its just a little damaged. Came from China, what I expect? But Ive got my cherry 185 that does 2.9 at 1.4v, so... w/e, lol


Damn, that lowers my hopes on this 180. It's on its way from china as we speak. It was a cheap deal though, 19.48 and free shipping. My 165 cost me almost twice that, and it's barely getting past 2.06. No matter what I'll be getting a nice speed increase, and hopefully a little more stability. I'm thinking about picking up a new board though. Any suggestions on good overclockers that support SLI?


----------



## SwishaMane

DFI Lanparty, ASUS A8N series, or a DFI nF4 Ultra SLi, like mine, but I have no sli support. MY board can do upwards of 340FSB, so I have all kinds of numbers to play with to get my OC right... Like now, its 290 x 10 at 150 divider, for 2.9ghz, 207Mhz RAM. 100% stable across the board, even my 8800gtx is doing 675core over 576 stock... he he


----------



## poizone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> DFI Lanparty, ASUS A8N series, or a DFI nF4 Ultra SLi, like mine, but I have no sli support. MY board can do upwards of 340FSB, so I have all kinds of numbers to play with to get my OC right... Like now, its 290 x 10 at 150 divider, for 2.9ghz, 207Mhz RAM. 100% stable across the board, even my 8800gtx is doing 675core over 576 stock... he he


Sweet, I'll keep those in mind. How much was your board new? I checked ebay and they were about as costly as a new mid range board today.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poizone*
> 
> Sweet, I'll keep those in mind. How much was your board new? I checked ebay and they were about as costly as a new mid range board today.


Oh yeah, a DFI nF4 Ultra Infinity / SLI board is hard to find. I got a deal on mine, came with an Opty 144, near new, mint, in box with everything except an i/o plate. I bought some small heatsinks and some arctic silver thermal adhesive to mount them, and put them on all the VRMs to help. I think I paid $48 or so. BEST 939 board I've owned, and I've had 3 Lanparty's... I think my lack of experience OC'ing back then is what held me back from the lanparty's being great boards for me... Well, they weren't bad, but I didn't understand DDR timings well, and that's what messed me up now that i have a grasp on it better.


----------



## poizone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Oh yeah, a DFI nF4 Ultra Infinity / SLI board is hard to find. I got a deal on mine, came with an Opty 144, near new, mint, in box with everything except an i/o plate. I bought some small heatsinks and some arctic silver thermal adhesive to mount them, and put them on all the VRMs to help. I think I paid $48 or so. BEST 939 board I've owned, and I've had 3 Lanparty's... I think my lack of experience OC'ing back then is what held me back from the lanparty's being great boards for me... Well, they weren't bad, but I didn't understand DDR timings well, and that's what messed me up now that i have a grasp on it better.


Everything but the I/O plate? Not bad at all. I'm gonna work hard with this board and try to find another deal next month, but it looks like limits will be reached quickly. I'll probably cut up some old chipset heatsinks for the VRMs to help those out. Best part about this case is that airflow is better than anything else I've ever used. Ambient is right around 20C right now, and air is flowing across every single part in there right now. I don't see more than 40C on anything in there when I stress it.

Speaking of stress, what's the voltage limit on these chips? I know the nForce is right around 1.7, but I've seen conflicting views on everything else.


----------



## SwishaMane

nF chipset does good at 1.5 and 1.6, I have aftermarket cooling,a nd my board can do 1.7 to it, but I keep it at 1.6. 939 CPUs are generally safe to 60C, Opterons technically 65C, but I've seen a couple chips, from personal experience, go as high as 80C. DONT EVER DO THAT, but Ive seen it.







Stay below 1.55vCore, and 60C, 65 is pushing it really.

My board auto over volts under load, to 1.42vCore max, and on water at 100% load, Prime95 for 2 hours, I hit 55C tops. My opty 185 is also a cherry picked chip, doing 2.9 stable at almost stock volts. Good luck on the 180, its hit or miss/ luck of the draw.


----------



## poizone

Well thanks to a lack of materials on prime under linux and an issue running the blend tests (mprime executable gets killed, blend only issue) I can't seem to stress my ram. Hopefully it's a ram problem, and not an IMC problem. I'll figure it out soon enough.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> You wanna keep that ht below 1ghz, upwards of 1050 should be ok, but I stay between 800 and 1ghz...


I don't....










I've had it higher than that before, once over 1500 with my 180 but wasn't trying to do that when it happened.

In recent events, I broke out the DFI LanParty, my good 4000+ San Diego and fired off a run with it: http://hwbot.org/submission/2349542_bones_wprime___1024m_athlon_64_4000_san_diego_1517sec_562ms

I've also pushed a few other chips while I had it setup to go but didn't try the 175 this time..... Maybe I should have but the 180 did fairly well itself.

Good to hear the Infinity is working well for you swish, that's actually a variant of my 754 Infinity that runs so well.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> I don't....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've had it higher than that before, once over 1500 with my 180 but wasn't trying to do that when it happened.
> 
> In recent events, I broke out the DFI LanParty, my good 4000+ San Diego and fired off a run with it: http://hwbot.org/submission/2349542_bones_wprime___1024m_athlon_64_4000_san_diego_1517sec_562ms
> 
> I've also pushed a few other chips while I had it setup to go but didn't try the 175 this time..... Maybe I should have but the 180 did fairly well itself.
> 
> Good to hear the Infinity is working well for you swish, that's actually a variant of my 754 Infinity that runs so well.


NICE! ht over 1ghz is known to cause problems, but maybe, JUST MAYBE, Ill bump it up a multi, to 1160mhz and see what happens. Nice OC! And yeah, this Infinity board is excellent. POST first boot ever.









EDIT: Boosted ht link up a multi, seems pretty stable at 1160mhz, 290 x 4.


----------



## poizone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> NICE! ht over 1ghz is known to cause problems, but maybe, JUST MAYBE, Ill bump it up a multi, to 1160mhz and see what happens. Nice OC! And yeah, this Infinity board is excellent. POST first boot ever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Boosted ht link up a multi, seems pretty stable at 1160mhz, 290 x 4.


I was wondering about that actually, since my board came with the 5x multi enabled stock. I looked it up and the denmark chips all use a 1GHz HT link by default. Yay performance!

Nice clocks for both of you. I now have goals in life.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poizone*
> 
> Motherboard: MSI K8N-SLI F
> CPU: Opteron 160 (180 on the way)
> Ram: 2x 512MB sticks (Agrevia on the chips, 2x 1GB of G.Skill on the way)
> Graphics: EVGA 9800GTX+ (Have two, will SLI at some point)
> PSU: hec 650w
> SSD: 60GB OCZ Agility 3
> 
> And the best part
> 
> Case: Milk Crate


very nice! Now that I have access to a machine shop I've been itching to get my hands dirty again... Haven't done any custom case work in a while.

I still have my MSI K8N neo4-f or whatever it was called. The single-PCIe version of yours. It is (was) finicky, but no where near as aggravating as my DFI board haha.


----------



## poizone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*
> 
> very nice! Now that I have access to a machine shop I've been itching to get my hands dirty again... Haven't done any custom case work in a while.
> 
> I still have my MSI K8N neo4-f or whatever it was called. The single-PCIe version of yours. It is (was) finicky, but no where near as aggravating as my DFI board haha.


Haha, that case is all hand tools and zipties. Best part about projects is how resourceful you have to be sometimes.

Yeah, these boards are crazy annoying, but the worst part is that my bios is before the update that cleared the cmos after three failed posts. Every failed try I have to reach into the back corner, find the cmos reset button in the sea of caps and things and press it. I wish there were pins so I could bring it out to the front.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poizone*
> 
> Haha, that case is all hand tools and zipties. Best part about projects is how resourceful you have to be sometimes.
> 
> Yeah, these boards are crazy annoying, but the worst part is that my bios is before the update that cleared the cmos after three failed posts. Every failed try I have to reach into the back corner, find the cmos reset button in the sea of caps and things and press it. I wish there were pins so I could bring it out to the front.


Solder to the points and wire them to a switch. Supa easy.


----------



## StormX2

I miss that about my old 165, put her together and right away set it to 300fsb


----------



## StormX2

one of the days im gonna try to get my hands back on the Cul†

I miss that rig so bad


----------



## rhkcommander959

300htt was good? all my optys would glady do that. i did get lucky with steppings though maybe

pushing 333 on mine right now, no spare ssd to test stability yet(borrowed one from 2600k rig).

Anyone know why am2 and beyond that were the similar design overclocked better? I would guess more efficient design or something. Especially since wattage was lower, but that doesn't explain the wall we still hit with better cooling (minus the few cherry cpus). The x2 5000 BE i had was doing 3.4 at one point on water/pelt. Then again that is a brisbane... maybe apples to oranges? Too tired and long ago for me to know now.

@poizon, I had my hands on a MSI motherboard the same as that, it didnt want to overclock much either. IIRC the cpu overvoltage did nothing, you could change it but the effects weren't had and it would leave CPU at stock. Might be worth looking into, you could pinmod for higher cpu voltage potentially. I am foggy on the details for the motherboard now, but it may have had a overvoltage setting too, with things like 101%, etc to give you slight voltage increase but with a limit...

Not sure if this works, some browsers don't like it. but it says there is a way to go from 1.35 to 1.55v, but that is a big jump and risk... I wouldn't bother unless the chip isn't worth much to you. Better boards can still be had. Theres a few on the marketplace iirc. 1.55 is pretty darn high too


----------



## poizone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> @poizon, I had my hands on a MSI motherboard the same as that, it didnt want to overclock much either. IIRC the cpu overvoltage did nothing, you could change it but the effects weren't had and it would leave CPU at stock. Might be worth looking into, you could pinmod for higher cpu voltage potentially. I am foggy on the details for the motherboard now, but it may have had a overvoltage setting too, with things like 101%, etc to give you slight voltage increase but with a limit...
> 
> Not sure if this works, some browsers don't like it. but it says there is a way to go from 1.35 to 1.55v, but that is a big jump and risk... I wouldn't bother unless the chip isn't worth much to you. Better boards can still be had. Theres a few on the marketplace iirc. 1.55 is pretty darn high too


This board has two options for voltage, the VID adjustment and then a VID percentage overvolt (3.3%, 6.6%, 9.9%, etc). I'll have to see about getting cpu-z running in WINE, or find another HD to install xp onto so I can check those are changing. Linux is definitely lacking on the sensors for these parts.


----------



## poizone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> i for one didnt spend nearly that much on my opty build


QFT

I think I'm up to about $400 now. I was pretty late to the game haha. Five, six years maybe?


----------



## StormX2

same here, some reason I cant find the records I used to have, had all the specifics about my processor

IO think my 165 was a CBBE but Im really not sure.

Had the SLI DR but I didn't SLI unfortunately.I spent good money on the ram, too bad it was only 2 GB but the TwinX Platinum's were had those IC's that were highly coveted by us 939 kids.

I bring this up every 6 months or so lol, but I remember posting a pic of my Memory timings and some of the guys here were quite impressed with what I had, apparently some of the more obscure options were set really low and it was some sort of awesomeness lol

While the other guys with the same IC's were at 500mhz and up, I was at 460mhz with really really nice timings. And since I didn't like playing with Voltage, I had limitation of about 312 FSB


----------



## RyanMicah

I have two sticks of the 512mb DDR500 ram. Its made to be set that high at default.


----------



## StormX2

it was really nice when our DDR1 machines were beating out DDR2 Builds for quite some time.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> it was really nice when our DDR1 machines were beating out DDR2 Builds for quite some time.


Hah, I remember that. Well, we beat AM2 stuff, but I think the Core architecture ended that reign.


----------



## cdoublejj

any one had to replace their capacitors yet? if a different PSU doesn't fix my issues i'm tempted to blame the caps.


----------



## RyanMicah

I always try to go for boards with solid state caps anymore. I almost refuse to buy one with the older liquid caps because I like things to last a long time. Also, if a board has a hot running northbridge I won't buy it either. They tend to go bad as well.


----------



## SwishaMane

Thats funny because the best 939 boards you can get have electrolytic caps, LOL. Making fun of course, solid caps for 939 era is almost impossible to find. DFI Venus, and your AMD chipset board, other then that, IDK... Mebbe that weird Foxconn reboot board they made couple years ago.

Got my eVGA GTX 260 C216 today! vModded it through BIOS to 1.18v, and Im at 729 / 1512 (??) shader / 1053 mem stable so far. Keeping the fan 100% of course, waiting on my Accelero to come for it, shooting for 800+ with extra volts on that cooler. 60C tops in Crysis benchmark, very high, 4x AA, 1920 x 1080, bout 18fps average. Dang nice for 939. 32fps average in 'high' settings... I have a 939 that can play Crysis SMOOTH! lol

Set a new 3dmark06 personal record on 939 with 11,173 points. w00t w00t


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyanMicah*
> 
> I always try to go for boards with solid state caps anymore. I almost refuse to buy one with the older liquid caps because I like things to last a long time. Also, if a board has a hot running northbridge I won't buy it either. They tend to go bad as well.


that didn't exist in the 939 days, any round cap isn't solid state. almost all boards have hot NB you need upgraded cooling or as5. Not to say high standards is bad, it ins't.


----------



## RyanMicah

.


----------



## StormX2

I just used the old room fan to keep chipsets cool

always worked for me, but then again I never really pushed my opteron hard, the 3700 kabqe though that guy I had abused just a little


----------



## Kryton

I've ran everything I have hard at some point.
Normally I just let it run at stock but never try to OC it 24/7 as some will do. When I need it to run, it's ready but in good enough shape that it will deliver when asked to.

@ RyanMicah:
Solid caps were just coming into use with boards during the 939 era, that's why only a few have these with newer sockets having them as a standard. You probrably know that already but had to make the statement.

I've seen some boards while they did run warm/hot on the NB, they still did well and using an aftermarket cooler did help things. Bought a few Tt Extreme Spirit II chipset coolers during that time and they did the trick with all of them, still have these coolers and they work as well now as they did when I first got them.

I've yet to lose a board from OC'ing itself, it's always been something such as water leaking onto the board or something like that causing it to die - I've lost one or two like that due to plastic barbs/fittings having hard-to-spot hairline cracks so I won't use any plastic with those anymore, nothing but good, metal fittings from now on, preferably brass so they don't corrode.


----------



## RyanMicah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> Solid caps were just coming into use with boards during the 939 era, that's why only a few have these with newer sockets having them as a standard. You probrably know that already but had to make the statement.


I did know that a few years ago, but it's been a busy few years.







I totally forgot. You are correct.


----------



## poizone

Got my ram in today, and apparently I can't read well because I ended up with the set that had weaker timings. Running 3-4-4-8 now, hopefully I can convince all four sticks to run 2.5-3-3-8. I know the 512MB sticks are capable, but I'd like for these 1GB sticks to do it as well.

EDIT: Took the 2.5-3-3-8 settings, booted up, just need to see if they'll be stable.


----------



## frogger4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poizone*
> 
> Got my ram in today, and apparently I can't read well because I ended up with the set that had weaker timings. Running 3-4-4-8 now, hopefully I can convince all four sticks to run 2.5-3-3-8. I know the 512MB sticks are capable, but I'd like for these 1GB sticks to do it as well.
> 
> EDIT: Took the 2.5-3-3-8 settings, booted up, just need to see if they'll be stable.


Cool, what voltage did you accomplish that at?


----------



## poizone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frogger4*
> 
> Cool, what voltage did you accomplish that at?


That was stock voltage. I did end up having to drop my multi to 1.8, but I'm running at a 228 FSB so it's right around 205mhz anyways.


----------



## Kryton

Just for you guys to checkout.
Did a run earlier and came up with a really good time in Super PI, personal best so far.



This particular chip has been called a freak before and it's proving itself to be just that.... Was done on H2O cooling too.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> Just for you guys to checkout.
> Did a run earlier and came up with a really good time in Super PI, personal best so far.
> 
> This particular chip has been called a freak before and it's proving itself to be just that.... Was done on H2O cooling too.


That's a great score , well done Kryton


----------



## Kryton

Thanks man!
I believe it can go faster yet, temps are the deal here and I believe I can manage those well enough to get a little more from it.


----------



## SwishaMane

Crazy man, whats it do for 1M SuperPi?


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Crazy man, whats it do for 1M SuperPi?


Here it is.
It's gonna have to be colder to run faster but I think I can get 24's from it at least if I can manage it - You know I'll try it at least.


----------



## RyanMicah

I've decided to settle at an even 2.4ghz on my Manchester core X2 3800+ 2.0ghz. I am using a Foxconn NF4SK8AA-8EKRS (nForce 4 SLI). This OC doesn't sound that great until I mention it's on stable on 1.4v (+024-.040v fluctuating)] with 4GB's of ram running at 200mhz and 2-3-3-6-2T on air with a crappy fan not much better than the stock fan.







This system will likely be getting a single 512mb HD4850.

I can't seem to get it to go higher than 2.4 with 4 gigs of ram, but others have not been able to get 4 gigs to work at all, especially at these timings so I'm happy with it.

Helluvalot better than 2.0ghz with 3-4-4-8.









Oops, almost forgot. It's running XP Pro x64 with all the drivers and bios up to date!


----------



## StormX2

ouch XP pro 64-bit, amazing that you were able to get things to work in windows lol

How come you cant drop the Ram divider and get a higher clockrate on the CPU?


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> Here it is.
> It's gonna have to be colder to run faster but I think I can get 24's from it at least if I can manage it - You know I'll try it at least.


Not bad, not bad... I can barely scrape 29s at 2.9ghz, Im also only running 207Mhz DRAM tho, dont need crazy RAM freq. Is cool tho.


----------



## RyanMicah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> ouch XP pro 64-bit, amazing that you were able to get things to work in windows lol
> 
> How come you cant drop the Ram divider and get a higher clockrate on the CPU?


X2 3800+'s don't clock very high. I could only get another 100-200mhz out of it tops, and that's impossible with 4gbs of ram. I'd rather keep all four ram sticks at a high speed than to have two sticks at a low speed I think. This PC probably won't be used for gaming much at all, I'm going to try to sell it to my sister and her husband and four girls (I know, *** were they thinking?). Besides, I've got my fast 512mb rams and my Opty 180 to OC next...


----------



## StormX2

i dlove to get my hands on the old 939 rig, I might talk my father into handing it back over, too bad he paid me like 300 bucks for it I thinks.

I told him it was all enthusiast gear that would have sold for more







basically ripped him off but for what he does its fine.


----------



## RyanMicah

You ripped off your own dad?









I usually try to give my friends and family good deals, without losing too much cash.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> i dlove to get my hands on the old 939 rig, I might talk my father into handing it back over, too bad he paid me like 300 bucks for it I thinks.
> 
> I told him it was all enthusiast gear that would have sold for more
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> basically ripped him off but for what he does its fine.


more than fine, and not bad price. I rebuilt a 939 dual core at work and we original had it marked for 300 i think we now have it marked down to 250. i'd like to see a new computer come with a dual core a video card, 500gb drive and 32amp power supply (antec neo eco). I used to think we charged outrageous prices till the boss started teaching me the business end of things.

that said i have had my mind on running a 939 rig with over 4gb of ram, i believe it's possible with an asus boards and 2x2gb ecc NON registered.


----------



## SwishaMane

You'd probably have to find a dual socket 939 server board with 8 RAM slots to get over 4GB, which would be 8GB worth, with a 64bit OS of course.


----------



## Menphisto

Hello,
I have a Athlon 64 x2 3800+ (Toledo) running in 2,66 GHz with a vcore of 1,275 v. The Ht Link is 798 MHz and the ddr400 in 221 mhz. I tryed to push the cpu with higher vcore to 3 GHz but the pc isnt starting when the FSB is Ober 266. The idle temps are 28-34. How can i overclock it more ? Mainboard= Asus a8v-xe


----------



## StormX2

what kind of cooling are you using?


----------



## Menphisto

Ekl k2


----------



## partyboy75

If someone have running Opteron 180 please post a benchmark screenshot from TrueCrypt. (select chunk size 50MB for most stable results)

Also screenshot of DiskCryptor benchmark results are welcome www.diskcryptor.net


----------



## StormX2

hey hey party Boy. are you comparing your benches?

Why do you need the benches etc.


----------



## poizone

I got my 180 in yesterday, but it seems unstable even at stock. After I installed it I plugged in the 24 pin and my board immediately turned on, but didn't boot or anything. I unplugged and checked for a short on the power pins, there was none, and plugged it in again. Same thing. Third time, same thing, then the fourth it wouldn't turn on at all. About ten minutes of fiddling later, it turned on fine, and I have no clue why. It'll still cycle like that every once in a while, and I can hear my GPU fan whirring like it's repeatedly losing power.

The only thing I can come up with is that the styrofoam the seller used to send it to me instead of antistatic foam is causing an issue. I really don't want to take it apart again (Cooler is badly designed for this socket), but it looks like I'll need to.


----------



## Grmadness

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poizone*
> 
> I got my 180 in yesterday, but it seems unstable even at stock. After I installed it I plugged in the 24 pin and my board immediately turned on, but didn't boot or anything. I unplugged and checked for a short on the power pins, there was none, and plugged it in again. Same thing. Third time, same thing, then the fourth it wouldn't turn on at all. About ten minutes of fiddling later, it turned on fine, and I have no clue why. It'll still cycle like that every once in a while, and I can hear my GPU fan whirring like it's repeatedly losing power.
> 
> The only thing I can come up with is that the styrofoam the seller used to send it to me instead of antistatic foam is causing an issue. I really don't want to take it apart again (Cooler is badly designed for this socket), but it looks like I'll need to.


Or a faulty PSU.


----------



## StormX2

what kind of PSU is running it all?

the voltages seem ok?


----------



## partyboy75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> hey hey party Boy. are you comparing your benches?
> 
> Why do you need the benches etc.


I need the benches to know how many MB/s the CPU will deliver and what storage speed it can support without bottlenecking and hitting 100%

I'm going to buy system with Opteron 180


----------



## tubnotub1

Man I miss 939, my 3700+ and Opteron 165 made such a huge impression on me, were part of my first builds and stoked my interest in computers and overclocking. CCBBE 0617 FPMW, that was the stepping of my Opteron, I still remember it today 7 years later. Long live 939!


----------



## Menphisto

I have an opteron 175 and a x2 3800+. I only get the 175 to 2,5 GHz the x2 to 2,66 GHz. Is it normal that the opteron doesnt perform very well in overclocking ?


----------



## Menphisto

I have an opteron 175 and a x2 3800+. I only get the 175 to 2,5 GHz the x2 to 2,66 GHz. Is it normal that the opteron doesnt perform very well in overclocking ?


----------



## StormX2

each chip is different

the higher multi did not always mean a higher overclock.

my opty 165 booted to 300 x 9 the very first day it was on line ;p

and I was able to lower the Voltage and keep stable with great temps on the stock Opty cooler.

however, with stock voltage, I was unable to go past 312 FBS


----------



## tubnotub1

@Menphisto: It has been a long time since I had my Opty, but I managed to search up this post that had a CPU-Z of the settings I was running for 3.0. Hopefully it will be at the very least a bit helpful.

Opty 165 3.0 Settings


----------



## StormX2

yah but that thread says you were not stable lol

and at 1.56 volts!


----------



## poizone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grmadness*
> 
> Or a faulty PSU.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> what kind of PSU is running it all?
> 
> the voltages seem ok?


Volts all look good, and it ran the 165 without a problem.

It's an hec 650w, but it's been working fine for a year and a half. It pushed my sandy bridge rig just fine until I switched it to this build in november, and I would think that two mech drives, a 2600k at 4.8ghz, and a 560 ti at 930mhz would sip a little more juice than this K8 setup.


----------



## StormX2

beh you know how it is, newer tech, more power efficiency

but that Hec PSU is one of those silly "4 rail" systems, I honestly dont know much of the difference, but if its older it might not be supplying clean power.

HEC is saying its 17A on each rail, so I have no idea how exactly that works , what GPU is running on that 650 watt?


----------



## tubnotub1

@Storm: It was only unstable due to high temps, later on I picked up a Chilly1 and it ran just fine all the way up to 3.1. Either way, was just trying to give him an idea of a few settings he could try (temps permitting) to get his processor to 3.0.


----------



## StormX2

ah gotcha, yah cooling makes the difference, chipset cooling too!


----------



## StormX2

cruddy double post


----------



## toughacton

Hey guys,
I was messing around with my old Asus A8N-VM CSM board and plugged a cheap bad stepping opty 175 i got into it with my 4 gigs of GSKill ram. I am for some reason only showing 2 gigs of RAM in windows xp. I know i won't ever see all 4 gigs, but I should at least see 3. I have a 1 gig 6450 in there, but I don't think that would do it? The CPUz shows i have 4 gigs installed as does the BIOS and I have the memory hole options selected. Any ideas? thanks in advance.


----------



## poizone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> beh you know how it is, newer tech, more power efficiency
> 
> but that Hec PSU is one of those silly "4 rail" systems, I honestly dont know much of the difference, but if its older it might not be supplying clean power.
> 
> HEC is saying its 17A on each rail, so I have no idea how exactly that works , what GPU is running on that 650 watt?


This supply is a 2 rail model, with 30A on the first and 26A on the second. I'm only pushing a 9800GTX+, which is a single 6 pin card.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I was messing around with my old Asus A8N-VM CSM board and plugged a cheap bad stepping opty 175 i got into it with my 4 gigs of GSKill ram. I am for some reason only showing 2 gigs of RAM in windows xp. I know i won't ever see all 4 gigs, but I should at least see 3. I have a 1 gig 6450 in there, but I don't think that would do it? The CPUz shows i have 4 gigs installed as does the BIOS and I have the memory hole options selected. Any ideas? thanks in advance.


Windows XP only recognizes 2GB by default if I remember correctly, and requires an update to recognize 3 for user programs. It's been a while though, so I may be remembering wrong.


----------



## blooder11181

the xp sp3 is ready for 3gb ram se the bios for memory remapping enable


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I was messing around with my old Asus A8N-VM CSM board and plugged a cheap bad stepping opty 175 i got into it with my 4 gigs of GSKill ram. I am for some reason only showing 2 gigs of RAM in windows xp. I know i won't ever see all 4 gigs, but I should at least see 3. I have a 1 gig 6450 in there, but I don't think that would do it? The CPUz shows i have 4 gigs installed as does the BIOS and I have the memory hole options selected. Any ideas? thanks in advance.


Instability can cause it to "Loose" one of your RAM sticks sometimes, I've had that happen before.
At times you'd need to reseat your sticks too, if one isn't seated properly that can cause it as well but since CPU-Z is seeing it, most likely it's pure instability, that's normally how it shows up as an indicator of what's going on.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> You'd probably have to find a dual socket 939 server board with 8 RAM slots to get over 4GB, which would be 8GB worth, with a 64bit OS of course.


A long time ago i read thread where a guy had single 939 board and jammed two non registered ECC sticks in there long story short it would boot with on of the two stick installed. there was no mention if said stick would work with 1gb/512bm sticks or if he had the latest bios. it's not the first time i have seen ASUS have a non server board support non registered ECC either.


----------



## RyanMicah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Menphisto*
> 
> Hello,
> I have a Athlon 64 x2 3800+ (Toledo) running in 2,66 GHz with a vcore of 1,275 v. The Ht Link is 798 MHz and the ddr400 in 221 mhz. I tryed to push the cpu with higher vcore to 3 GHz but the pc isnt starting when the FSB is Ober 266. The idle temps are 28-34. How can i overclock it more ? Mainboard= Asus a8v-xe


Wow. How is your vcore so low? Mine isn't stable at 1.375, I have to push it to 1.4 to get it stable at 2.4. Mine is a Manchester core though. I wonder if maybe I should try running it with less, I'm running 4GBs of ram though and so that can make it unstable too. It seems to be that I just have to find the right combination of settings to use 4GBs.


----------



## RyanMicah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I was messing around with my old Asus A8N-VM CSM board and plugged a cheap bad stepping opty 175 i got into it with my 4 gigs of GSKill ram. I am for some reason only showing 2 gigs of RAM in windows xp. I know i won't ever see all 4 gigs, but I should at least see 3. I have a 1 gig 6450 in there, but I don't think that would do it? The CPUz shows i have 4 gigs installed as does the BIOS and I have the memory hole options selected. Any ideas? thanks in advance.


Windows may be using part of it for the OS, I'm not sure where you're getting your reading from. Try CPU-Z if you haven't. Also, your vid card might be sharing some as well. If the OS and video card are using around 1GB combined then whatever you are reading might only be reporting the remainder. But as a previous poster said you need the update to allow Windows to see more than 2GBs of ram. I remember that to be true. It may be a specific hotfix that you might have to search for.


----------



## Menphisto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyanMicah*
> 
> Wow. How is your vcore so low? Mine isn't stable at 1.375, I have to push it to 1.4 to get it stable at 2.4. Mine is a Manchester core though. I wonder if maybe I should try running it with less, I'm running 4GBs of ram though and so that can make it unstable too. It seems to be that I just have to find the right combination of settings to use 4GBs.


I dont know how i do this, but it runs prim95 3 hours with a max temp of 47 C with a vcore of 1.275. Now i have two new fans and it has a idle of 19 C. Has someone an idea why i cant get over a fsb of 266 ?
i can set the multipl. to 5 or so and it isnt starting with a fsb of 267. Is it because of my psu (only 350w) or is my mainboard ( asus a8v-xe) bad?


----------



## toughacton

Thanks for all the great suggestions guys. I've used all four sticks in my SLI-DR and they work fine there. I haven't ever gotten 4 Gigs to work in this board before. I got a mismatched 3 gigs to work, though that was at DDR 200 speed which I don't want. It's possible since this is an older bad stepping 175 that the memory controller just can't handle 4 gigs. I know its an 2005 chip. Also it could just be that the board isn't able to run all 4 gigs in dual channel. They are are 2 matched pairs of RAM with sequencial serial numbers, so i doubt there is any compatability issues. I'll check and see if I'm on service pack 3 though. It could be im not (I know none of my windows discs include it) but its an old install and I may have added it and don't remember. As far as stability I'm 12 hours Prime95 stable at my current 2.55 GHz clock at 1.4 V Funny thing is this chip in my Lanparty only got to about 2.4 stable. (although i think i was using my DDR500 RAM and not these sticks). Ram is on the 166 divider so the speed is less than 400. Command rate is at 2 instead of 1.

I'll check the seating and windows service pack. maybe swap the pairs around and reseat them. The poor SLI-DR is down for the moment since I only have a junk power supply to work with my old 939 stuff ( and that board is picky about its power supply). I needed the good one for my new build thats running a 6790 that needs the better power supply.

I have read a bit on my board and it said something about being able to run 4 gigs with a CPU of a certain revision. 0 i think. Could this be the problem? None of this is vital since it is just going to be for old games that only run on xp and 2 vs 4 gigs is really just me trying to use parts I have instead of letting them sit around. I appreciate all the help so far.


----------



## blooder11181

did you check in the bios for memory remapping enable?


----------



## StormX2

Im pretty sure I used to run my Opteron 165 at a 24/7 2.7 ghz at 1.26 Volts, but I could be mistake, been a long time.

memory at a total of 460mhz with that low low timings


----------



## Menphisto

Is there Any big difference in the Performance if the ram is running on 180 MHz or 220 MHz, because i can Run the Athlon 64 x2 3800+ now on 2,8 GHz but only with a ram speed of 187 MHz .


----------



## StormX2

well that's considerably underclocked!

if you are going to run it like that, then see what sort of timings you can pull off that low.

otherwise 440mhz should be doable but may require more voltage and or looser timings


----------



## rhkcommander959

Anyone know of any good memory to get now? I was looking on newegg and saw the GSkills were decent, maybe crucials if I slap a heat sink on them









My goal is 4x1gb of decent mem that i can do at least ddr500 with. These old 4x512 crucial tracers still run great but the extra memory capacity would be nice... And its nearly impossible to find 1gb sticks of tracers that aren't shot


----------



## Menphisto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> well that's considerably underclocked!
> 
> if you are going to run it like that, then see what sort of timings you can pull off that low.
> 
> otherwise 440mhz should be doable but may require more voltage and or looser timings


Well i mean the real clock is 334 so 187 MHz is the half ram Frequenze. The timings are 2.5-4-4-8-2t what can i Do better for overclock and Performance.When my ram gets over 230 MHz (real clock: 460) the screen freezes or i have blue screen.


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> Anyone know of any good memory to get now? I was looking on newegg and saw the GSkills were decent, maybe crucials if I slap a heat sink on them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My goal is 4x1gb of decent mem that i can do at least ddr500 with. These old 4x512 crucial tracers still run great but the extra memory capacity would be nice... And its nearly impossible to find 1gb sticks of tracers that aren't shot


I'm using those Gskills (or at least a slightly older version) and as far as I've tested they won't do DDR500. MAybe 450 if you mess with the timings. They will do the 2.5 CAS though as advertised at DDR 400. I just don't think any new manufactured RAM is going to have the performace to reach DDR 500. I might be wrong though. I seem to remember someone saying that the Adata Ram that Newegg had was good. Though I don't remember how good. I also have a set of the Corsair Value RAM that I know does DDR 450. However, my set is old and they change the chips on those all the time. New ones may not be as good.

You can still find DDR 500 on the ebay if you are willing to gamble. I luckily got a 2 gig set of Crucial Ballistix for $25 that does almost DDR600 at 2.7V The DDR400 Corsair XMS sticks can also sometimes get near DDR 500 if you can find them. Occasionally the EGG has them and they are often on ebay. Search around sometimes folks will have it mislabeled as DDR400 or DDR2 sticks. Even so there is not a whole lot of performance RAM running around these days since its so sought after as well as being more likely broken do to overclocking fun









Best of luck finding some that don't cost an arm and a leg!

On a side note, getting to DDR 500 with 4 sticks will be rough as 4 sticks will really tax your memory controller. I've always gotten better speeds from 2 sticks rather than 4. It can be done though as long as you can get over 300 FSB.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Menphisto*
> 
> Hello,
> I have a Athlon 64 x2 3800+ (Toledo) running in 2,66 GHz with a vcore of 1,275 v. The Ht Link is 798 MHz and the ddr400 in 221 mhz. I tryed to push the cpu with higher vcore to 3 GHz but the pc isnt starting when the FSB is Ober 266. The idle temps are 28-34. How can i overclock it more ? Mainboard= Asus a8v-xe


Via chipset = no PCI frequency lock
Around 220 MHz is all you'll get before data corruption takes over.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> I'm using those Gskills (or at least a slightly older version) and as far as I've tested they won't do DDR500. MAybe 450 if you mess with the timings. They will do the 2.5 CAS though as advertised at DDR 400. I just don't think any new manufactured RAM is going to have the performace to reach DDR 500. I might be wrong though. I seem to remember someone saying that the Adata Ram that Newegg had was good. Though I don't remember how good. I also have a set of the Corsair Value RAM that I know does DDR 450. However, my set is old and they change the chips on those all the time. New ones may not be as good.
> 
> You can still find DDR 500 on the ebay if you are willing to gamble. I luckily got a 2 gig set of Crucial Ballistix for $25 that does almost DDR600 at 2.7V The DDR400 Corsair XMS sticks can also sometimes get near DDR 500 if you can find them. Occasionally the EGG has them and they are often on ebay. Search around sometimes folks will have it mislabeled as DDR400 or DDR2 sticks. Even so there is not a whole lot of performance RAM running around these days since its so sought after as well as being more likely broken do to overclocking fun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best of luck finding some that don't cost an arm and a leg!
> 
> On a side note, getting to DDR 500 with 4 sticks will be rough as 4 sticks will really tax your memory controller. I've always gotten better speeds from 2 sticks rather than 4. It can be done though as long as you can get over 300 FSB.


OCZ Platinum 1 gig sticks will do over 500 @ 2.5-3-2-5 1T all day long. Example:


----------



## Menphisto

Which settings should i use for the normal gaming use ? : 1. Cpu @ 2,8 GHz , vcore 1,35 , Memory 187 MHz ( 334), idle temp 35 C or 2. Cpu @ 2.66 GHz , vcore 1,3 , Memory 221 MHz ( 442) , idle temp 30 C. Please, i need your advices because i dont Know which is the best for gaming and is safe.


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Menphisto*
> 
> Which settings should i use for the normal gaming use ? : 1. Cpu @ 2,8 GHz , vcore 1,35 , Memory 187 MHz ( 334), idle temp 35 C or 2. Cpu @ 2.66 GHz , vcore 1,3 , Memory 221 MHz ( 442) , idle temp 30 C. Please, i need your advices because i dont Know which is the best for gaming and is safe.


have you run a stress testing program to check the stability of those configurations? If not, I would try either prime95 or occt and make sure it passes for at least an hour, preferably more before gaming or anything, OCCT is nice since it will also give you your load temps which are more important to your cpu's safety. If they are both stable Id say use the higher CPU speed for gaming.

On my own RAM issue I have made a discovery. If i turn the memory hole remapping off, i go UP to 2.25 GIGs and if I turn it on it goes down to 2. Next to the remapping option it says that it only works with REV E0 processors and higher. Is there a way to check if my chip is? Maybe this is the issue.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> On my own RAM issue I have made a discovery. If i turn the memory hole remapping off, i go UP to 2.25 GIGs and if I turn it on it goes down to 2. Next to the remapping option it says that it only works with REV E0 processors and higher. Is there a way to check if my chip is? Maybe this is the issue.


All those dual core Opty's are E6 revision.


----------



## poizone

If your memory is going down after you turn remapping on, then there's your problem. It seems you have 256MB of bad space somewhere.


----------



## RyanMicah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> I'm using those Gskills (or at least a slightly older version) and as far as I've tested they won't do DDR500. MAybe 450 if you mess with the timings. They will do the 2.5 CAS though as advertised at DDR 400. I just don't think any new manufactured RAM is going to have the performace to reach DDR 500. I might be wrong though. I seem to remember someone saying that the Adata Ram that Newegg had was good. Though I don't remember how good. I also have a set of the Corsair Value RAM that I know does DDR 450. However, my set is old and they change the chips on those all the time. New ones may not be as good.
> 
> You can still find DDR 500 on the ebay if you are willing to gamble. I luckily got a 2 gig set of Crucial Ballistix for $25 that does almost DDR600 at 2.7V The DDR400 Corsair XMS sticks can also sometimes get near DDR 500 if you can find them. Occasionally the EGG has them and they are often on ebay. Search around sometimes folks will have it mislabeled as DDR400 or DDR2 sticks. Even so there is not a whole lot of performance RAM running around these days since its so sought after as well as being more likely broken do to overclocking fun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best of luck finding some that don't cost an arm and a leg!
> 
> On a side note, getting to DDR 500 with 4 sticks will be rough as 4 sticks will really tax your memory controller. I've always gotten better speeds from 2 sticks rather than 4. It can be done though as long as you can get over 300 FSB.


I have two DDR500 XMS sticks, they have the LEDs on top too. But they are only 512mb sticks. I have a couple of DDR400 C-2 sticks as well, they might be able to hit DDR500 speeds though I have not tried yet. If they can I'll probably see if I can run all four sticks in single channel mode just for kicks - though I doubt it will work. I used to own the 1GB version of these C2 sticks, until I decided to sell them. Unfortunately after the sale the guy told me one did not work, so I tested it upon return and sure enough. I half think he might have fried it trying to OC but Corsair gave me the money back for the whole set so I didn't mind too bad.







They sure weren't cheap.


----------



## Menphisto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> have you run a stress testing program to check the stability of those configurations? If not, I would try either prime95 or occt and make sure it passes for at least an hour, preferably more before gaming or anything, OCCT is nice since it will also give you your load temps which are more important to your cpu's safety. If they are both stable Id say use the higher CPU speed for gaming.
> 
> On my own RAM issue I have made a discovery. If i turn the memory hole remapping off, i go UP to 2.25 GIGs and if I turn it on it goes down to 2. Next to the remapping option it says that it only works with REV E0 processors and higher. Is there a way to check if my chip is? Maybe this is the issue.


They are both stable with prime95 3 hours. Bit isnt the vcore 1,35-1,41 dangerous ? Max temps are 52 C


----------



## Menphisto

In my BIOS i can change MTRR mapping mode on Continuous or Discrete. Which should i use and what is that ? Also i can change a Vlink mode at the chipset settings to mode 0-4. Same question which should i use and what does it mean ?


----------



## Menphisto

Now i overclocked the Athlon 64 x2 3800+ to his Max. On my Board for 5 min







@ 3.48 GHz( on Air ) maximal temp 58 C


----------



## partyboy75

Please someone running Opteron 165, 180 or 185 post a DiskCryptor benchmark. FX-60 is fine too. Overclocked or not is not so important as the non-OC speed can be simply calculated.


----------



## Menphisto

My Athlon 64 x2 3800+ is running @ 2,75 GHz with vcore 1,38 and ddr on 456 mhz. It is prime stable but occt not ...... Are these settings ok for 24/7 use ? Idle temp 32 C and 4 hours prime95 54 C


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *partyboy75*
> 
> If someone have running Opteron 180 please post a benchmark screenshot from TrueCrypt. (select chunk size 50MB for most stable results)
> 
> Also screenshot of DiskCryptor benchmark results are welcome www.diskcryptor.net


Heres the 50Mb Truecrypt benchmark you asked for, its on my opty 185 at 2.9ghz. Does this help?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Menphisto*
> 
> My Athlon 64 x2 3800+ is running @ 2,75 GHz with vcore 1,38 and ddr on 456 mhz. It is prime stable but occt not ...... Are these settings ok for 24/7 use ? Idle temp 32 C and 4 hours prime95 54 C


Those settings are fine 24/7 as long as you experience no crashes, BSOD, or errors during normal and heavy use. Benchmarks like prime95 and OCCT are extreme loads, WAY more than normal everyday gaming / general use.


----------



## Menphisto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Heres the 50Mb Truecrypt benchmark you asked for, its on my opty 185 at 2.9ghz. Does this help?
> 
> 
> Those settings are fine 24/7 as long as you experience no crashes, BSOD, or errors during normal and heavy use. Benchmarks like prime95 and OCCT are extreme loads, WAY more than normal everyday gaming / general use.


thanks


----------



## rhkcommander959

Running four sticks isn't an issue for me, I have ran these tracers up to 580mhz memtest stable. Always running fans on my mem. That's why my tracer have lasted so well and others had issues... Things always get weird around the 600 mark, not sure if it's the mem controller, mobo, CPU limitations or what. Bandwidth drops considerably too iirc. But 500 is plenty fast

But four gigabytes of memory seem more useful, if they can do well. I tried eBay and got burned. Doubt there's anything that hasn't been ran hot and overclocked hard now. I have a set of 1gb modules that won't even run at rated speeds, even underclocked they throw hundreds of thousands of errors in memtest, but I'll keep trying if I have to... Otherwise I might try adata, Gskill, mushkin if they have them, or crucial. I had a pair of crucial sticks that were DDR2-533 that I slapped some heatsinks on and had great OC results so maybe I could get Lucky.


----------



## partyboy75

So overclocked Opteron 185 can pull 225MB/s @ 2.9GHz. I expect that Opteron 180 at 2,4GHz can do 180MB/s if the speed is scaling purely with GHz. And I expect that DiskCryptor can get better speeds because it have more optimized code.

The single WD1600ADFS can do 90MB/s maximum sustained, in RAID0+1 it can be absolute maximum of 180MB/s. So the CPU can handle encryption of RAID0+1 without severely limiting the advantages of going RAID.


----------



## Menphisto

Is an avg vcore of 1.38 ok ? Or isnt it good for the cpu lifetime ?


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Menphisto*
> 
> Is an avg vcore of 1.38 ok ? Or isnt it good for the cpu lifetime ?


It's fine. It's almost the stock voltage. In general, you can go to 1.5v for 24/7 usage as long as you can keep it cool, and by cool I mean under 50c @ 100% load.


----------



## poizone

Anyone know a good northbridge cooler that has enough reach to get out of the way of my second graphics card? I'm tired of the blades snapping off my low profile 40mm fans I have now.


----------



## frogger4

Another good RAM option (I think it was already mentioned) - I have 4 x 1GB Corsair XMS DDR 400's, but without changing any voltages (little bit looser timing, still cas 3), they go right to DDR 500 even with all 4GB's. I'm not certain it is completely stable but it seems good so far. At any rate, I think the Corsair XMS is very capable.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poizone*
> 
> Anyone know a good northbridge cooler that has enough reach to get out of the way of my second graphics card? I'm tired of the blades snapping off my low profile 40mm fans I have now.


Thermalright HR-(05?) SLI I believe it was called.


----------



## poizone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*
> 
> Thermalright HR-(05?) SLI I believe it was called.


Well balls. I looked at the compatibility list here for the heatsink, and apparently my board is one of the few it won't work with. Maybe I can fix up an old laptop pipe system to draw the heat.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poizone*
> 
> Well balls. I looked at the compatibility list here for the heatsink, and apparently my board is one of the few it won't work with. Maybe I can fix up an old laptop pipe system to draw the heat.











Sorry. Its probably too expensive to buy on a whim to try and mod it? I think you're on the right track with laptop stuff though.


----------



## poizone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry. Its probably too expensive to buy on a whim to try and mod it? I think you're on the right track with laptop stuff though.


The only available sink is the HR-55 anyways, and it seems even less likely to fit. The northbridge on my board is placed in such a way that the pipes would hit one of the shrouds in any direction. Perhaps a cut or two in the proper spot on the shrouds. They were cheap cards anyways (The guy sold me 3 for $120, I resold one for $50), I don't see a problem with putting some choice holes in the plastic. That's if I can't find a meaty laptop sink anywhere.


----------



## RyanMicah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poizone*
> 
> If your memory is going down after you turn remapping on, then there's your problem. It seems you have 256MB of bad space somewhere.


I read that mapping doesn't do squat. It just changes how the user views the ram.


----------



## poizone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyanMicah*
> 
> I read that mapping doesn't do squat. It just changes how the user views the ram.


Well if he runs memtest and finds 256MB of missing ram or more, then remapping did it's job by preventing the use (Read or Write) of the bad addresses. That's what remapping is for, it maps the RAM addresses around the bad sectors.


----------



## frogger4

Following up from my previous post, I'm really impressed with this Corsair XMS memory I got. With 4 x 1GB, I can get DDR 525 MHz on stock voltage. The timings are pretty loose, but it gets a good SuperPi score considering the low cpu speed:


----------



## poizone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frogger4*
> 
> Following up from my previous post, I'm really impressed with this Corsair XMS memory I got. With 4 x 1GB, I can get DDR 525 MHz on stock voltage. The timings are pretty loose, but it gets a good SuperPi score considering the low cpu speed:


Good numbers, but the cpu speed really does look a bit low. You sure you can't drop a divider (multi in this case) and push the FSB? The IMC on these chips seem to scale really well with frequency, and I'm sure a 4200+ could hit at least 2.45GHz with the proper tweaks.


----------



## frogger4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poizone*
> 
> Good numbers, but the cpu speed really does look a bit low. You sure you can't drop a divider (multi in this case) and push the FSB? The IMC on these chips seem to scale really well with frequency, and I'm sure a 4200+ could hit at least 2.45GHz with the proper tweaks.


Oh yes, absolutely. I was just playing around with the RAM, haven't even gotten started on the CPU yet


----------



## StormX2

tru overclocking right there, find the max FSB, Max Ram, Max OC


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> tru overclocking right there, find the max FSB, Max Ram, Max OC


+1!!


----------



## Kryton

That's how it's done.... Takes time and patience to figure it all out but once you do, it's well worth the effort put into doing it.


----------



## frogger4

I'm working on the FSB side of things things now, and I have a few questions. If I lower the multipliers down low, it seems like I can take the FSB as high as I want (over 300MHz), but I'm pretty sure that isn't helpful. Is there any reason to not use the highest multiplier on the CPU (11x for the 4200+), and just increment the FSB from there? And, on my FX 55 (unlocked multiplier), is there any reason change the FSB at all, except perhaps to get higher RAM?

Also, some more settings that I am unfamiliar with - There is a frequency control for SB to NB (default 200MHz), is this useful for anything? Also, I have an option to overvolt the NB, SB, and hyper transport - in what situations would that be helpful?

Thank you all for the support, I'm really liking 939 so far!


----------



## N2Gaming

Hey Frogger I think the biggest thing is being able to get your cpu & ram running as fast and stable as possible. Now the more ram dividers the bios has the better chance you have of getting better all around overclocks. .02¢


----------



## frogger4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*
> 
> Hey Frogger I think the biggest thing is being able to get your cpu & ram running as fast and stable as possible. Now the more ram dividers the bios has the better chance you have of getting better all around overclocks. .02¢


Yep, that makes sense, and is pretty straight forward.

Here is where I am at now on the Athlon 64 x2 4200+
2.77 GHz, 1.4V, 252MHz FSB, x11 multiplier



Stress testing now, I think this is where I want to be on voltage / thermals for everyday use. Requesting addition to the club!

Edit: erm - not exactly stable, but this about what I am going for.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frogger4*
> 
> I'm working on the FSB side of things things now, and I have a few questions. If I lower the multipliers down low, it seems like I can take the FSB as high as I want (over 300MHz), but I'm pretty sure that isn't helpful. Is there any reason to not use the highest multiplier on the CPU (11x for the 4200+), and just increment the FSB from there? And, on my FX 55 (unlocked multiplier), is there any reason change the FSB at all, except perhaps to get higher RAM?


First off this is normal.
With higher multis you are working the chip harder per MHz cycle and it can only do so much. A lower multi will let you get higher bus speeds and while it might not seem to help, it really does from a tweaking standpoint. AMD's like a mix of bus and multi settings anyway and using this along with the correct RAM divider will let you tune it to the highest CPU speed and RAM speed possible. You'll find in many cases you'll get more from it in overall speed since a higher multi always = higher temps.
If you want to go higher, keeping it cool is a must and running a lower multi with some bus speed will let you keep temps in check while reaching the same overall speed in MHz.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frogger4*
> 
> Also, some more settings that I am unfamiliar with - There is a frequency control for SB to NB (default 200MHz), is this useful for anything? Also, I have an option to overvolt the NB, SB, and hyper transport - in what situations would that be helpful?
> 
> Thank you all for the support, I'm really liking 939 so far!


Overvolting the NB itself will give you more bus speed since the NB controls that but like the CPU, you'll need to monitor temps as well with higher voltages used.

The SB isn't that helpful except maybe in doing some GPU OC'ing, that's where you'd normally use that setting but for standard bechmarks like Super PI, the SB doesn't do anything for that. Normally you'd want to leave your SB speeds at 100MHz unless doing some 3D benching and even then, a speed of around 104 is about as high as I'd suggest for that since you can corrupt your HDD with excessive SB speeds, esp if using an SSD drive.

Keep your HT speeds at or below 1000MHz since anything above that can make your machine unstable. I normally use a 3x HT setting in most cases and it works great that way for most anything I'm doing. You've seen where I've gone much higher but that's because my chips can handle it, not every chip can so keep it at or around the 1000 mark or less to ensure stability.


----------



## frogger4

Thanks, that's all very helpful! I'll play around with different multiplier - FSB settings to see if there is an optimal configuration where I can get the RAM near their its max and the CPU near the speed I want.


----------



## KipH

I have an old board with a blown cap. It costs too much to RMA. I was thinking of learning to solder to fix it. Am I insane?

I looked for a small replacement. micro ITX would have been good. Apparently the '90s called and took all their boards back







Any thoughts on how to get a board?


----------



## StormX2

also just like todays chips, certain multi settings oc better than others.

you will often at 165' a beating the higher multi chips, and sometimes they so better.

so even with tour unlocked multi, if you can reach 300 fan that's great you will have much ability to optimize embed telly tighten things down.

don't touch southbridge, but make sure you have a fan blowing on the costs, they over heat and cause artifacts in game/crashes.


----------



## SwishaMane

When overclocking the SB, which is usually pci-e in BIOS, you have to know / remember every +1, is 25mhz over stock. So 100 = 1600mhz, 101 = 1625mhz, 102 = 1650mhz, etc... If you have a nF4 board, using nF4 Clock Gen makes it REALLY easy to see this bus speed increase. And yeah, 104, or 1700mhz is about it, and doesn't do much performance wise, if anything... Might help throw a little more data to the GPU, but risks HDD corruption.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kip69*
> 
> I have an old board with a blown cap. It costs too much to RMA. I was thinking of learning to solder to fix it. Am I insane?
> 
> I looked for a small replacement. micro ITX would have been good. Apparently the '90s called and took all their boards back
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any thoughts on how to get a board?


Depends if the board is worth it. Soldering is really easy, well, to me, I've self taught myself over 10 years now. Replacing a cap is cake, just make sure it matches. Get me the info, I might have a spare cap. I need the voltage and micro farad (uF) ratings. Watch a couple youtube tutorials on how to solder, there maybe even a "How to replace a capacitor" video, never know...


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> When overclocking the SB, which is usually pci-e in BIOS, you have to know / remember every +1, is 25mhz over stock. So 100 = 1600mhz, 101 = 1625mhz, 102 = 1650mhz, etc... If you have a nF4 board, using nF4 Clock Gen makes it REALLY easy to see this bus speed increase. And yeah, 104, or 1700mhz is about it, and doesn't do much performance wise, if anything... Might help throw a little more data to the GPU, but risks HDD corruption.
> Depends if the board is worth it. Soldering is really easy, well, to me, I've self taught myself over 10 years now. Replacing a cap is cake, just make sure it matches. Get me the info, I might have a spare cap. I need the voltage and micro farad (uF) ratings. Watch a couple youtube tutorials on how to solder, there maybe even a "How to replace a capacitor" video, never know...


Great suggestions from Swisha.
It's not terribly difficult if you take the time to watch some videos about it or read up on it. I had never done it till last year when I looked at my old MSI kn7delta ISLR board and discovered nearly all of the caps to be bulging , leaking or both. It is working flawlessly after the repair and I have acutally resurrected a couple of other pieces of hardware by replacing caps.
Certainly worth the price of the capacitors as well as the time I spent at it.

This thread is thumping along pretty good considering its age


----------



## Comp1demon

ASUS A8N-SLI Premium

DFI NF4 Ultra-D 939 Lanparty

Which one would you recommend grabbing for booting XP off SSD (AHCI ENABLED) and get a decent overclock for the 180?


----------



## StormX2

thats a good question, i dont remember seeing an option for AHCI on my old SLI-DR


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Comp1demon*
> 
> ASUS A8N-SLI Premium
> 
> DFI NF4 Ultra-D 939 Lanparty
> 
> Which one would you recommend grabbing for booting XP off SSD (AHCI ENABLED) and get a decent overclock for the 180?


Whether you use AHCI or IDE won't affect your overall OC'ing results in terms of MHz speed achieved. There is a way to make it work but XP works hassle-free using IDE. I do know if you do an install as IDE and want to change it over to AHCI, there is a tweak for that but just remember either way won't affect what you get when trying to clock the system itself up.
It will improve certain things such as response time from your SSD.

Here's how it's done with certain boards but don't know if it works with your board or not - I've never tried to do a switch myself.
http://www.overclockaholics.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4855


----------



## partyboy75

AHCI have performance benefits on Windows 7. Tested personally by me with Velociraptor WD3000HLFS Baracuda 7200.11 1.5TB and Velociraptor WD1000DHTZ 1TB under both WinXP and Win7. AHCI have more efficient random data access.

Windows XP does not natively support AHCI features.

AHCI does not affect overclocking.

Hope this helps.


----------



## cdoublejj

I want 2x2gb ecc NON registered server sticks. doubt i could afford it though.


----------



## Comp1demon

Well I am convinced my eVGA 939 Nforce 4 board will never work with an SSD drive....
Every SSD configuration and driver I tried either gives me BSOD, or installs XP then after first reboot never gets back to windows.

I'm about to try ABIT K8N - Grabbed one for $34 shipped. Website say that the board has AHCI support which seems important in getting a SSD to work.

I decided not to buy the ASUS A8N PREMIUM... Though I am still holding on to the possibility of the LANPARTY board.

I really would love getting XP to boot from an SSD on my Opteron 180.
After I get a solid install then I will start to tweak the 180 to go a bit faster.
This is my emulation Machine so I don't want to go too crazy...

Right now just doing a fresh install on the Opteron 180 eVGA NFORCE 4 board on the EIDE HDD... Just to get it running.
After that I might go a different route.


----------



## Kryton

DFI LanParty board's are the best 939 boards bar none for OC'ing.
They are quirky but like an F1 Formula car, once you get it right it will fly provided all else is capable.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Comp1demon*
> 
> Well I am convinced my eVGA 939 Nforce 4 board will never work with an SSD drive....
> Every SSD configuration and driver I tried either gives me BSOD, or installs XP then after first reboot never gets back to windows.
> 
> I'm about to try ABIT K8N - Grabbed one for $34 shipped. Website say that the board has AHCI support which seems important in getting a SSD to work.
> 
> I decided not to buy the ASUS A8N PREMIUM... Though I am still holding on to the possibility of the LANPARTY board.
> 
> I really would love getting XP to boot from an SSD on my Opteron 180.
> After I get a solid install then I will start to tweak the 180 to go a bit faster.
> This is my emulation Machine so I don't want to go too crazy...
> 
> Right now just doing a fresh install on the Opteron 180 eVGA NFORCE 4 board on the EIDE HDD... Just to get it running.
> After that I might go a different route.


You realize XP requires 3rd party software to properly utilize and SSD right? I'm just asking to check.


----------



## SwishaMane

LANParty boards are good, but my DFI nF4 Ultra Infinity is by far the best 939 board I've ever used. Some of the layout of connectors and ports aren't my favorite, but its clocked the highest stable FSB I've had over ANY of the other FOUR lanparty boards Ive run, post on FIRST boot ever (never had a lanparty do that,







) AND its got just as many options to tweak. ONLY set back is the VRMs dont have cooling. Some cheap heatsinks, and some thermal adhesive fixed that. Its got that oldschool brown PCB look which is vintage, small form factor, and rock solid all around. Nowhere NEAR as much work to get going like a LANParty does...









Only thing that sucks is my engineering sample doesnt boot on DFI 939 boards, only ASUS A8N as of now I know of...


----------



## Kryton

Either way you can't lose with a DFI - I forgot about the Infinity's and yes, those are excellent boards too!


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> You realize XP requires 3rd party software to properly utilize and SSD right? I'm just asking to check.


Not exactly the truth. Nv raid is all that's required. If you raid 0 your single SSD it's pretty much the same performance as an AHCI SSD.
Alignment is important also. XP will not do this for you. You have to do it manually.
FWIW, I have SSD's on my DFI 939 boards, and older platforms than that, with no issues at all.


----------



## Comp1demon

Care to expand on this? Very interested in getting my SSD on XP to work on a 939 setup for my machine.

Raid 0 on a single drive? How is that possible.

Alignment?

Installing XP fresh from a CD to the SSD - how do you install NV-raid?

Thanks


----------



## oz120

I have a 939 setup I started building back in 06 sometime and have never even put power to it. I still needs psu, RAM, HDD, and video card. Next time I'm in my lab/office I will grab specs, and a few pictures.

I know the MB is Abit AN8 SLi with uGuru. Just like the Fatal1ty board only without the uGuru box for the case.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Not exactly the truth. Nv raid is all that's required. If you raid 0 your single SSD it's pretty much the same performance as an AHCI SSD.
> Alignment is important also. XP will not do this for you. You have to do it manually.
> FWIW, I have SSD's on my DFI 939 boards, and older platforms than that, with no issues at all.


XP needs software support for stuff trim and garbage collection. you are also talking about how putting them in raid is as fast as AHCI mode. you realize when it runs slow like that with out trim or garbage collection or alignment that can wear out the SSD prematurely? or so i'v seen mentioned on CON a few times.


----------



## SwishaMane

Why not just run Win7 on your 939 instead of XP? 7 is running GREAT on my 939 machine, mech hdd of course. I only own one SSD and its for my main...


----------



## Kryton

Speaking of Win 7 on older machines, I've had it running on my Socket A's and it still did well, mech drive and all.

Win 7 supports TRIM while XP doesn't and I have to agree, it could shorten the lifespan of an SSD but then again so does OC'ing on just about every component we have when we do it.
We're also upgrading things all the time so unless you plan on keeping that SSD for sometime as being used in a daily driver, I don't believe it's gonna make alot of difference. After all, when you upgrade things drives are one we tend to swap out for better performance.

It's really up to the user whether the risk is worth it or not and how they want to look at it.

Honestly, I have an older OCZ Core II SSD that's ran XP for a few years now and it's still going strong. Only difference I have to admit is I have it setup as IDE, not AHCI but there's still no TRIM being used of course.
I believe defragging an SSD is worse on them than anything else I can think of.


----------



## Comp1demon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Why not just run Win7 on your 939 instead of XP? 7 is running GREAT on my 939 machine, mech hdd of course. I only own one SSD and its for my main...


I need XP on this machine.. win 7 will not work for me...


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> XP needs software support for stuff trim and garbage collection. you are also talking about how putting them in raid is as fast as AHCI mode. you realize when it runs slow like that with out trim or garbage collection or alignment that can wear out the SSD prematurely? or so i'v seen mentioned on CON a few times.


Read more carefully. I'm talking a SINGLE SSD in raid 0. XP doesn't support TRIM at all, no matter what you do, and garbage collection is performed by the SSD firmware, not the OS. Alignment can be done manually, or by software. I use Paragon Alignment Tool. Works just fine. FWIW, I have XP installs on SSD's that are used 24/7 for more than 2 years and have never had an issue. They're still running today. I'm on one right now.

Nv raid is a software based raid. Google it.
http://www.aoaforums.com/frontpage/computer-hardware-58/292-guide-installing-xp-using-nvraid.html

Nv raid driver attached. Use at F6 on your XP install.

NFUM_NVRAID_F6.zip 612k .zip file


----------



## Comp1demon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Read more carefully. I'm talking a SINGLE SSD in raid 0. XP doesn't support TRIM at all, no matter what you do, and garbage collection is performed by the SSD firmware, not the OS. Alignment can be done manually, or by software. I use Paragon Alignment Tool. Works just fine. FWIW, I have XP installs on SSD's that are used 24/7 for more than 2 years and have never had an issue. They're still running today. I'm on one right now.
> 
> Nv raid is a software based raid. Google it.
> http://www.aoaforums.com/frontpage/computer-hardware-58/292-guide-installing-xp-using-nvraid.html


AH MR. SCOTT - I am glad to see a engineer.... (been on a trek kick lately!)

Anyways....

I read that hooking up a SSD to a win 7 machine and going into Drive management and formatting it in there will set up the alignment. Just plug back into the machine you intend to put XP on that drive.. fire up the machine with the CD and install.. is that the case?

as for NV raid... once windows is installed on the SSD and you boot into XP for the first time after install you then set the NV raid software?

Thanks...


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Comp1demon*
> 
> Anyways....
> 
> as for NV raid... once windows is installed on the SSD and you boot into XP for the first time after install you then set the NV raid software?
> 
> Thanks...


Use the attached driver at F6 on the install. Enter the Nvraid console and set it up.


----------



## Comp1demon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Use the attached driver at F6 on the install. Enter the Nvraid console and set it up.


Attached driver? Did you attach something?


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Comp1demon*
> 
> AH MR. SCOTT - I am glad to see a engineer.... (been on a trek kick lately!)
> 
> Anyways....
> 
> I read that hooking up a SSD to a win 7 machine and going into Drive management and formatting it in there will set up the alignment. Just plug back into the machine you intend to put XP on that drive.. fire up the machine with the CD and install.. is that the case?
> 
> as for NV raid... once windows is installed on the SSD and you boot into XP for the first time after install you then set the NV raid software?
> 
> Thanks...


It's in Mr. Scott's post right above the one I quoted.


----------



## RyanMicah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Comp1demon*
> 
> Care to expand on this? Very interested in getting my SSD on XP to work on a 939 setup for my machine.
> 
> Raid 0 on a single drive? How is that possible.
> 
> Alignment?
> 
> Installing XP fresh from a CD to the SSD - how do you install NV-raid?
> 
> Thanks


To do raid on a single drive you create two partitions. The problem with this is that it's a software raid that will eat into your CPU a bit.


----------



## poizone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyanMicah*
> 
> To do raid on a single drive you create two partitions. The problem with this is that it's a software raid that will eat into your CPU a bit.


I actually googled that, and from what most tests show, Windows' software raid uses less cpu than the current Intel hardware raid implementation. It also performs better than the intel solution in most tests. I'm totally down with it.


----------



## StormX2

GL! Sounds fun!

I wish I had an SSD on my Opty rig back in those days, imagine right?


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> Speaking of Win 7 on older machines, I've had it running on my Socket A's and it still did well, mech drive and all.
> 
> Win 7 supports TRIM while XP doesn't and I have to agree, it could shorten the lifespan of an SSD but then again so does OC'ing on just about every component we have when we do it.
> We're also upgrading things all the time so unless you plan on keeping that SSD for sometime as being used in a daily driver, I don't believe it's gonna make alot of difference. After all, when you upgrade things drives are one we tend to swap out for better performance.
> 
> It's really up to the user whether the risk is worth it or not and how they want to look at it.
> 
> Honestly, I have an older OCZ Core II SSD that's ran XP for a few years now and it's still going strong. Only difference I have to admit is I have it setup as IDE, not AHCI but there's still no TRIM being used of course.
> I believe defragging an SSD is worse on them than anything else I can think of.


i did it on barton core, it ran aero and flash games at the same time... smoothly.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Read more carefully. I'm talking a SINGLE SSD in raid 0. XP doesn't support TRIM at all, no matter what you do, and garbage collection is performed by the SSD firmware, not the OS. Alignment can be done manually, or by software. I use Paragon Alignment Tool. Works just fine. FWIW, I have XP installs on SSD's that are used 24/7 for more than 2 years and have never had an issue. They're still running today. I'm on one right now.
> 
> Nv raid is a software based raid. Google it.
> http://www.aoaforums.com/frontpage/computer-hardware-58/292-guide-installing-xp-using-nvraid.html
> 
> Nv raid driver attached. Use at F6 on your XP install.
> 
> NFUM_NVRAID_F6.zip 612k .zip file


Duly noted. with out raid 0 what does it run like? as slow as an hdd? just a bios raid 0 with a single ssd? and alignment software? my grandparents machine uses XP but, doesn't do much and could benefit from an SSD. on the other hand it may get windows 7 by the time it gets and SSD.


----------



## RyanMicah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poizone*
> 
> I actually googled that, and from what most tests show, Windows' software raid uses less cpu than the current Intel hardware raid implementation. It also performs better than the intel solution in most tests. I'm totally down with it.


Yeah I never really noticed any lag. I ran a couple of 939's with Vertex II's in them and never had a single issue. Of course, disabling pagefile before they included that in an XP update helped.


----------



## poizone

I think my favorite part of this thread is that while we have these amazing, current, up to date rigs, we spend our time tinkering with 7 year old hardware and having intelligent discussion about it.


----------



## Comp1demon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poizone*
> 
> I think my favorite part of this thread is that while we have these amazing, current, up to date rigs, we spend our time tinkering with 7 year old hardware and having intelligent discussion about it.


Whats great is that while the hardware is 7 yrs old. I still use it every day. I can't afford to have 4 brand new i7's running all the time. My work computers and project computers are all AMD machines. I have only one i7 extreme PC and it is Gen 1. My laptops are Gen 2/3 i7 and i5 machines - but a laptop will never be a desk top.

I thought about selling off everything and building a new rig for my arcade machine - but the $100 in upgrades (opteron 180, Ram and video card) make it a more than capable machine for emulation.

It does make me want to build anew i7 extreme rig for emulation (not on an arcade machine) and some gaming too.. But I rather see if I can get these 939 machines running the best they can.

I have so many old machines it is rediculas.. I never throw anything away. I have 20 rigs in my garage from pentium 200MMX to some P3 beasts. I have some P4's I need to update and sell off and my AMD machines make great guest machines (cause I hate when my parents visit for a month and need a machine, they end up screwing up one of mine) . At least with the 939 machines I can set one up that seems to run as current as their i5 laptops do at home and when they leave I just re-image the drive.

I still need to see If i can get my SSD to run on this eVGA board - if not I will keep the EIDE HDD.

I do have Two more 939 boards on the way. I got an ABIT for $45 and someone just sold me a DFI lan party with a operon 185 in it for $100 shipped. And I just found a 3700+ and a a8n SLI board in my garage.. gotta see if they work.

I will be here constantly for the next few weeks talking with you guys... When i get into something I don't walk away from it for a while.. (i get sucked in).


----------



## rhkcommander959

those a8n's are nice, i have a fatal1ty with the uguru. the uguru worked on my abit ip35-pro too.









Still rocking the board in a halfway runnign system...


----------



## StormX2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poizone*
> 
> I think my favorite part of this thread is that while we have these amazing, current, up to date rigs, we spend our time tinkering with 7 year old hardware and having intelligent discussion about it.


haha and then you got the people like me who don't even still have a running 939 who just loves to get nostalgic


----------



## frogger4

For reference, I'm using an Asus A8N-32 motherboard with an SSD and it works perfectly. Of course that motherboard doesn't support AHCI, so the SSD is in IDE mode, but the disk performance seems exactly the same as when I had it in AHCI on a new board.


----------



## StormX2

even the seek times?


----------



## frogger4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> even the seek times?


good question, how can I test that?


----------



## StormX2

just run the priogram called AS SSD

should have a version for XP


----------



## cdoublejj

delete


----------



## poizone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Comp1demon*
> 
> I do have Two more 939 boards on the way. I got an ABIT for $45 and someone just sold me a DFI lan party with a operon 185 in it for $100 shipped. And I just found a 3700+ and a a8n SLI board in my garage.. gotta see if they work.


Lucky you. If you feel like being generous, I'm looking for a board that does more than 240FSB, supports SLI, and is cheaper than say $0.01 haha.

Outside of that, I'm pretty sad that I left my k8 back at school. I'm also sad that I lent my i7 to a friend for a bit. What am I supposed to do now that I can't take everything apart, clean, and put it back together?


----------



## KillThePancake

I've got an A8N-E and an Athlon 64 laying around here somewhere....


----------



## Comp1demon

OK I am pulling my hair out over here.

I made this video if anyone wants to watch it for 10 minutes and tell me what you think?

I can summarize it for you in the post.. but since no-one seems to have my MOBO and really knows. I will give you the low downb.

Set up raid in bios.
Specified SATA 1 raid. (since that is what the drive is on).
Went into the Raid during post.
Set it to Striping. (raid 0 right?)
Set it as bootable..
Tried to install windows XP.
Get lockups, freezes, BSOD.

I think the video will help for those GURUs out there that can take a quick look and give me an idea of what I might need to do..





Thanks,


----------



## blooder11181

do you have two equal ssd for raid?


----------



## StormX2

No blooder, I do not think so.

Can you partition the SSD in exact halves and then raid the halves together =?


----------



## blooder11181

for raid you need a pair of equal hdd or ssd


----------



## StormX2

not really what you think Blooder

it appears to be a trick to get older 939 boards to run with an SSD at full SSD speeds and Response times rather than running in IDE mode


----------



## SwishaMane

I want an SSD for my 939...


----------



## kayphoonstar

Great thread! I've been keeping my Opty 180's going as long as I can for 'home' uses. I've got three!

Here's some of my SSD/Nforce4/XP-W2003 experiences, fwiw:

I've been using one opty in a Tyan s2865/Opt180 with an older ssd (OCZ Vertex 32GB) without any problems for better than 2 years (24/7), running a small LAMP server with Ext4 FS that supports trim ('discard').

I had two of the Vertex, one of which had only had light use in an old laptop. So about 6 months ago, I moved the 'lightly used' vertex into the LAMP server and moved the more heavily used vertex into another Tyan s2865/Opt180 running Windows 2003 R2 server. CrystalDiskInfo showed '24%' of life left. It definitely ran faster than a standard drive but not great by any SSD standard (AS-SSD @170). The Nforce4 drivers would not recognize the drive correctly so I was using the standard ide drivers which worked fine and allowed wiper to run.

I'd been look around for an eventual replacement SSD for the W2003 machine and, in the meantime, trying out a few mSata chips in my new Lenovo w530. One of the chips I tried was an OCZ Nocti 120GB. I gave it a try because the mSata controller in the laptop was only Sata II. Unfortunately, it was a pretty dismal performer in the Laptop - _AS-SSD scores 180 - 220_. (I've settled on a Mushkin Atlas in the w530, BTW).

Anyway, I picked up a little enclosure adapter for the mSata and tried it out with the W2003 machine. Using the NForce4 drivers the AS-SSD scores are better than 270, which, in this realm seems pretty good to me. The OCZ toolbox even recognizes the drive although I doubt I'd actually try to update firmware with it.

I also tried a Samsung PM830 32GB mSata (with Adapter) chip which was quite a bit faster in the laptop but slower than the OCZ Nocti in the s2865 (faster sequential speeds but slower 4k).

The Nforce Sata and Raid driver seem to offer essentially the same performance for a single drive but aren't always compatible with the drive's firmware (as was the case with my Vertex @ 1.6, I haven't tried the 1.7 firmware) in which case you need to use the MS driver.

@Comp1demon: IMHO, your best bet would be to use the MS ide driver. I should probably also note that I didn't directly install w2003 on the Vertex - I cloned the partition and aligned the drive using gparted.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blooder11181*
> 
> for raid you need a pair of equal hdd or ssd


You most definitely do not. You can raid any size drives, you just lose space on the bigger one.


----------



## Comp1demon

Ok so this is what I did so far.

Someone said that a Add in card would not allow me to boot Win Xp on the 939 machine.
I took that advice and decided not to try it until last night.

I took the 120 GB OCZ vertex Plus+ and hooked it up to my win 7 pc.

use diskpar and set the offset to 1024K
Then I formatted the Drive in Win 7 using 4096K allocation unit size.

I then found the drivers for my highpoint rocket 620a PCIE 1x sata card and put them on a floppy.

I booted WIN XP (w/sp3) install CD.

Added the Drivers for the highpoint card and did my install as usual.

When it got the INSTALLING windows GUI screen (after the first reboot)
I did a Shift+F10 and typed in TASKMGR which shows the install in the task manager.
Right clicked the installation and set the priority to HIGH. (this gets win XP install MOVING ALONG FAST).

The machine when done install did reboot. My bios show the SSD as a Drive in mny Drive list and I made sure it was set to be the primary HDD
(I did this because I plugged in my other HDD's after the initial install and reboot - wanted to make sure my SSD was still the first drive)/

The first reboot into win XP after the full install was a bit long (35 seconds or so).
I then proceeded to let it find my HDD's that I plugged in and then started installing drivers for NIC, Video ect.. REBOOTED
That reboot was just as long.
Then I installed the AUDIO and downloaded the program clear/flush my prefetch folder and disabled win xp prefetch.
I also went into services and disabled a few such as security center, auto updates, indexing, ect...
I was prompted to reboot to take effect - so I did.
The boot was quick (only one line went across at the XP screen during bootup) and the machine went right into windows with a spit second welcome screen.
My next test was XBMC... Installed and tried a 1080P movie and it shuddered like heck. Upon exit it locked up the machine.
Rebooted back into windows which again was super fast (one line went by on the boot up screen before getting into windows.
Installed a few codec packs for video. Xbmc was a bit better after that.. but I found that Media player classic played BLU RAY 1080p with no issues.
SO began my stress test.
I loaded a bunch of processor intensive emulators. So far so good.
Since this is my arcade machine... MAMEWAH (a front end for MAME) is important to me.
All the other installs of XP constantly crashed or locked up (even though mamewah ran off a SATA Mechanical drive).
So far it has been running 12 or so hours rock sold.. no crashes.

Could I have done it? Did I get XP on a SSD on this machine working?
I hope so.. I will test for a few more days before I put the machine back in the Cabinet.

Any thoughts?


----------



## kayphoonstar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Comp1demon*
> 
> Ok so this is what I did so far. . .
> 
> . . . Could I have done it? Did I get XP on a SSD on this machine working?
> I hope so.. I will test for a few more days before I put the machine back in the Cabinet.
> 
> Any thoughts?


That sounds awesome!









So are the drivers in AHCI mode? Is the drive being reported as SATA II? I'd love to hear what kind of numbers (AS-SSD) you're getting from using the HighPoint Rocket with your Vertex Plus.


----------



## frogger4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> even the seek times?


Well, I'm not sure. Here's the AS SSD run. I used crystalmark (a similar benchmark) a while back when I had a modern motherboard. Everything looks similar except for the 4K reads








The SSD is an OCZ Agility 2 (sata 2) 128GB. What do you think about the access time?


----------



## kayphoonstar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frogger4*
> 
> For reference, I'm using an Asus A8N-32 motherboard with an SSD and it works perfectly. Of course that motherboard doesn't support AHCI, so the SSD is in IDE mode, but the disk performance seems exactly the same as when I had it in AHCI on a new board.


That looks similar (but better) to what I was getting with the Vertex. Have you tried the Nforce4 driver? Or do they only recognize the Agility 2 as a Sata I drive?


----------



## Comp1demon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kayphoonstar*
> 
> That sounds awesome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So are the drivers in AHCI mode? Is the drive being reported as SATA II? I'd love to hear what kind of numbers (AS-SSD) you're getting from using the HighPoint Rocket with your Vertex Plus.


I am unsure... The Highpoint card support AHCI and there is no dashboard/settings menu to enter during post.
The quick flash shows this.
 

SO I exited my stress test after 15 hours. to take that pic that was the FIRST reboot after my 14 hour test.

The Second Reboot I filmed for speed and so you can see the post.




The Third Reboot I filed and is here but guess what it never made it to windows.. it locked up at the welcome screen, never seen that before.

Any ideas?





Pressed the reset button here is that reboot... made it to windows and has been running for a few hours now stress testing 3 emulators at once.




So far this reboot has been running great. Nothing in System log - no errors.

Quote:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *frogger4*
> 
> For reference, I'm using an Asus A8N-32 motherboard with an SSD and it works perfectly. Of course that motherboard doesn't support AHCI, so the SSD is in IDE mode, but the disk performance seems exactly the same as when I had it in AHCI on a new board.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kayphoonstar*
> 
> That looks similar (but better) to what I was getting with the Vertex. Have you tried the Nforce4 driver? Or do they only recognize the Agility 2 as a Sata I drive?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

I have a A8n I am going to play with.
What do you mean by IDE MODE? Are you using a IDE / SATA adapter for your SSD or are you using a Bios setting that reports the SATA ports as IDE?


----------



## kayphoonstar

IDE Mode vs. ACHI mode. I don't think the "Nvata" driver in windows 2003 is officially an AHCI driver but it isn't the MS standard ide driver at least. You might see something like "Marvel AHCI controller" in windows device manager for your HighPoint device. Also, AS-SSD will show which driver is loaded, such as "pciide" or "Ahcix64", etc.


----------



## Comp1demon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kayphoonstar*
> 
> IDE Mode vs. ACHI mode. I don't think the "Nvata" driver in windows 2003 is officially an AHCI driver but it isn't the MS standard ide driver at least. You might see something like "Marvel AHCI controller" in windows device manager for your HighPoint device. Also, AS-SSD will show which driver is loaded, such as "pciide" or "Ahcix64", etc.


OK doing that now

EDIT: HERE YOU GO.
Where does it say IDE or ACHI?



The other seemed too small to read this should be better...


Here is another one.


Last one...


This is a different benchmark program some of you earlier said you use.. so I found it and here are my results.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poizone*
> 
> Lucky you. If you feel like being generous, I'm looking for a board that does more than 240FSB, supports SLI, and is cheaper than say $0.01 haha.
> 
> Outside of that, I'm pretty sad that I left my k8 back at school. I'm also sad that I lent my i7 to a friend for a bit. What am I supposed to do now that I can't take everything apart, clean, and put it back together?


I tried the A8N SLI deluxe Board and I get nothing.

I also got my ABIT board in the mail and That one fired right up.

I used the processor, ram and video card from the ABIT as I knew they all worked and the A8N SLI did nothing.. Black screen. No beeps, Just green LED on the board.
No clue what might be wrong with it.
You want it? It is yours (less than .01) I will gladly ship it to you whatever way you choose to have it shipped.
Might be a lost cause. Let me know.


----------



## kayphoonstar

"Mv91xx" is, I believe, the Marvel AHCI Driver. Those benchmarks look like they're on track for that drive so it looks like you've achieved the desired result: Congratulations!

On your A8N SLI, have you double checked any/all jumpers and reset the bios? I had one of my Tyan's play dead when I first got it and it was a simple missing clear cmos jumper.

Good luck!


----------



## Comp1demon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kayphoonstar*
> 
> "Mv91xx" is, I believe, the Marvel AHCI Driver. Those benchmarks look like they're on track for that drive so it looks like you've achieved the desired result: Congratulations!
> 
> On your A8N SLI, have you double checked any/all jumpers and reset the bios? I had one of my Tyan's play dead when I first got it and it was a simple missing clear cmos jumper.
> 
> Good luck!


Yes I checked all jumpers including the CLR CMOS jumper.. I purposely Cleared it because it was sitting for so long.
Replaced the Bios Battery too.

Checked all other jumpers, they all look good..

not sure what else to do...


----------



## RyanMicah

Anything not identified in your device manager? If anything is flagged is there an SDK driver on the manufacturer's website?


----------



## frogger4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kayphoonstar*
> 
> That looks similar (but better) to what I was getting with the Vertex. Have you tried the Nforce4 driver? Or do they only recognize the Agility 2 as a Sata I drive?


Hmm no, just using the default windows 7 (sorry, I forgot to specify that!). I'll check them out and compare.

Really, I am more confused with my SSD than when I started (I don't know how it is performing compared to when it was on a more modern motherboard). So, I'm going to plug that SSD into my ivy bridge machine and run the benchmark again.


----------



## kayphoonstar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frogger4*
> 
> Hmm no, just using the default windows 7 (sorry, I forgot to specify that!). I'll check them out and compare.
> 
> Really, I am more confused with my SSD than when I started (I don't know how it is performing compared to when it was on a more modern motherboard). So, I'm going to plug that SSD into my ivy bridge machine and run the benchmark again.


Here's what my Nocti was doing in my spankin' new i7 w530 mSata slot (best benchmark):



And this is how it's working in my old Tyan s2865 running Windows 2003 with the Nforce4 driver:



The Nocti seems to be some kind of special case and not really a great chip overall. The Nforce4 driver wouldn't work with the older Vertex 32GB. Here's the old, "24%" Vertex back in the old AMD laptop under Win 7, no AHCI - not that great - but a bit better than aWD Blue:



It did better in the Tyan.


----------



## Comp1demon

So are any of the PCIE slots fast enough, on most 939 boards, to support USB 3 Add in cards? or is that asking too much?

What is the best video card you can put in a OPTY 180 machine?
If your budget was say $50-65 what video card would you buy for your Opty 180 939 rigs?


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Comp1demon*
> 
> So are any of the PCIE slots fast enough, on most 939 boards, to support USB 3 Add in cards? or is that asking too much?
> 
> What is the best video card you can put in a OPTY 180 machine?
> If your budget was say $50-65 what video card would you buy for your Opty 180 939 rigs?


pretty sure PCIE x16 is fast enough weather it is 1.0 or 2.0.


----------



## kayphoonstar

I can't really speak to the speed required for USB 3.0 but one of my 939/Opty 180 machines is an HTPC running an ATI All-In-Wonder HD (Radeon 3650) which is an old card and the last AIW. I'm pretty sure its a PCIE 1.1 16x slot. It's connected to a TV via a DVI cable and I watch pretty much only HD Recordings on it w/o issue. I also stream sites like Amazon & HBO-Go, and full-screen video is great.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Comp1demon*
> 
> So are any of the PCIE slots fast enough, on most 939 boards, to support USB 3 Add in cards? or is that asking too much?
> 
> What is the best video card you can put in a OPTY 180 machine?
> If your budget was say $50-65 what video card would you buy for your Opty 180 939 rigs?


The best video card I've noticed without much issue on 939 is a GTX 280, or equivalent, without much bottlenecking, or wasted power. Ive got a decently Oc'd 260 C216 in mine now, and its balanced very well. I ran my girl's gtx 460 in it, and was same performance as my old 8800gtx. Ran my gtx 570 for giggles, and wasnt much better. 939 just doesn't have the bandwidth for anything better then a gtx 260 - 280 IMHO.


----------



## Comp1demon

Cool thanks!

Looking for a 260 or a 280 GTX..

What do you think of SLI 260 or 280? Overdoing it?
I have a few boards that support SLI..


----------



## cssorkinman

That's pretty similar to how i feel about it too. Beyond a 9800 gtx you reach an area of diminishing returns.
Oddly enough however, I graphed my gpu usage during 3d06 while running an FX-55 @ 3ghz paired with a 460 gtx and afterburner said it was at 100% at times during the bench. The score was about the same as my 9800 gt - so I'm a little confused.

EDIT:
460 http://www.3dmark.com/3dm06/16445618
9800gtx http://www.3dmark.com/3dm06/16445442
9800 gt http://www.3dmark.com/3dm06/16446335


----------



## Comp1demon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> That's pretty similar to how i feel about it too. Beyond a 9800 gtx you reach an area of diminishing returns.
> Oddly enough however, I graphed my gpu usage during 3d06 while running an FX-55 @ 3ghz paired with a 460 gtx and afterburner said it was at 100% at times during the bench. The score was about the same as my 9800 gt - so I'm a little confused.
> 
> EDIT:
> 460 http://www.3dmark.com/3dm06/16445618
> 9800gtx http://www.3dmark.com/3dm06/16445442
> 9800 gt http://www.3dmark.com/3dm06/16446335


Now you got me thinking.....



All these cards say PCI EX 16X 2.0. I know all 939 boards are PCIEX 16x 1.0a or 1.1.

I know that don't make a difference as I have a 2.1 card running on my nforce evga board right now.
But when it comes to performance I wonder where the bottle neck starts..

I currently have offers out on GTX 260 and GTX 280 cards.. should I be looking for a 9800GX2 card ???

I have a question back to SSD drives.

I saw a lot of you are doing your XP install on your SSD and then doing the alignment and cluster setting ans such.

I currently just set up my ABIT KN8 Ultra board and did a WIN XP SP3 install and spent all night installing drivers and updates and such. I don;t want to have to go through all that again for an SSD. So I took a Image snapshot of the drive after I was done installing all the updates and ordered a 40GB SSD for this machine. I know it is not the EVGA board I had all the issues with, but I want to just use that image snapshot from acronis and image it back to the SSD when it gets here.. Can you point me to the best program for doing the alignment and such after the image is installed?

3dmark 06 my systems (both the EVGA and the ABIT)
Both were quite sad......
I have on the evga has a brand new ATI HD 6570 card in it. it performs worse than a 6 year old ATI X1800xt 512mb in a PC with 1/2 the processor. Not sure what do do.
I am going to refresh the configurations to see what I can do. I found 4GB of ram for $11.00 online and that is going into the ABIT system.
I am going to pickup a GTX 260 or GTX 280 for the ABIT and I have to figure out what video card I am going to put on the Lanpartry.
I also found someone willing to sell me another optron 180 for $16 shipped. SO that is going into the ABIT system which currently has a 3700+ in it.


----------



## kayphoonstar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Comp1demon*
> 
> I have a question back to SSD drives.
> 
> I saw a lot of you are doing your XP install on your SSD and then doing the alignment and cluster setting ans such.
> 
> I currently just set up my ABIT KN8 Ultra board and did a WIN XP SP3 install and spent all night installing drivers and updates and such. I don;t want to have to go through all that again for an SSD. So I took a Image snapshot of the drive after I was done installing all the updates and ordered a 40GB SSD for this machine. I know it is not the EVGA board I had all the issues with, but I want to just use that image snapshot from acronis and image it back to the SSD when it gets here.. Can you point me to the best program for doing the alignment and such after the image is installed?


I can't tell you much about the video cards but as far as alignment, I just always use gparted (Ubuntu) off of the Live CD, 10.10 or later.


----------



## Comp1demon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kayphoonstar*
> 
> I can't tell you much about the video cards but as far as alignment, I just always use gparted (Ubuntu) off of the Live CD, 10.10 or later.


Thank you.. Looking into that!

I can use that to align drive with my XP install intact?


----------



## kayphoonstar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Comp1demon*
> 
> Thank you.. Looking into that!
> 
> I can use that to align drive with my XP install intact?


Yes. Use the "Align to MiB" setting > resize > set to 1MB preceeding. That should do it. Windows will want to check the drive when you reboot so let it. I have occasionally wound up with a 2048k offset instead of a 1024k offset using this method, which isn't really a problem (unless you just gotta have that 1 MB). But you can just go back into gparted and set to 1MB Preceeding with the "Align to MiB" setting still set and you'll get the offset back down to 1024k.


----------



## Comp1demon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kayphoonstar*
> 
> Yes. Use the "Align to MiB" setting > resize > set to 1MB preceeding. That should do it. Windows will want to check the drive when you reboot so let it. I have occasionally wound up with a 2048k offset instead of a 1024k offset using this method, which isn't really a problem (unless you just gotta have that 1 MB). But you can just go back into gparted and set to 1MB Preceeding with the "Align to MiB" setting still set and you'll get the offset back down to 1024k.


Nice can't wait to try that.


----------



## Comp1demon

NO new action here?

I got my Two 939 machines running nice. I will post more soon.

Anyone know of 939 boards that allow more than 4GB of ram for Win 7 64bit installs?


----------



## kayphoonstar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Comp1demon*
> 
> NO new action here?
> 
> I got my Two 939 machines running nice. I will post more soon.
> 
> Anyone know of 939 boards that allow more than 4GB of ram for Win 7 64bit installs?


Nice to hear your machines are up and running! I'm pretty sure you only get 4GB ram on any 939 socket MB.


----------



## RyanMicah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kayphoonstar*
> 
> Nice to hear your machines are up and running! I'm pretty sure you only get 4GB ram on any 939 socket MB.


Seconded.


----------



## Comp1demon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kayphoonstar*
> 
> Nice to hear your machines are up and running! I'm pretty sure you only get 4GB ram on any 939 socket MB.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyanMicah*
> 
> Seconded.


Disagree.. I have a ABIT KN8 Ultra that will take 8GB of ram...(manufacture states 8GB max) and I have 8GB running on it but I am looking for other boards that support 8GB too.
I have this facination with 939 boards right now... though I probably should be messing with something newer.

I was reading up on ECC-unregistered and ECC-registered memory.

I assume I am better off with ecc-unregistered memory. What would you guys say is the FASTET / BEST memory for these 939 machine?
I want the best performance I can get out of these.

Thanks!


----------



## frogger4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Comp1demon*
> 
> ...
> 
> What would you guys say is the FASTET / BEST memory for these 939 machine?
> I want the best performance I can get out of these.
> 
> Thanks!


If you are trying to get 2gb sticks to do 8gb, I'm really not sure (I don't know anywhere where you can get 2gb ddr1 ram now) (maybe ebay?)

Anyway, like I mentioned a while back, I have been thrilled with the performance of my Corsair XMS 4 x 1GB. There are some other good ones as well, but I know that should be at least more available.


----------



## Comp1demon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frogger4*
> 
> If you are trying to get 2gb sticks to do 8gb, I'm really not sure (I don't know anywhere where you can get 2gb ddr1 ram now) (maybe ebay?)
> 
> Anyway, like I mentioned a while back, I have been thrilled with the performance of my Corsair XMS 4 x 1GB. There are some other good ones as well, but I know that should be at least more available.


After doing some more digging... very hard to dig into the net on stuff this old... 2GBx4 Modules for the Abit board is the best it is going to get.
I cannot find another board that does more than 4GB of ram.
I have the Abit board at 4144 futuremarks on a X1800XT 512MB .. which is dismal.. I am going to try a 260 GTX soon,

I think I am about done with my 939 machine. I got the arcade machine working perfectly and I thank you all for the help. I am going to keep that machine.

The ABIT and the LANPARTY are both going on eBay... I don't think I can keep them... I might keep the ABIT I still want to mess with the SSD On it. I might use it to replace my a8n sli - which is what I use for my garage machine and guest PC. Then the a8n will hit eBay. going to be keeping 2 of the 4 of these and the EVGA nforce 939 arcade machine is ONE. I got 4GB of ram in there. A great grafx card, opty 180, SSD with XP running great. It will be perfect for emulation for now.

After doing the research and wanting to keep one more 939 machine, the rest will finance a AM3+ FX machine. I think it is time to waste the little cash I have on a 2012 piece of hardware instead of nickle and dimeing the 7 year old hardware I have. With the exception of the arcade machine (which I designed for the PC it is). The other machines are for dedicated things and I don't need 4 939 machines. I am glad I got opty 180's for all of them. I am glad I was able to max out the ram on all of them, but I don't think I should be investing time or effort into long term use of these machines. If I can't Grafx performance above a certain point on them, then I might as well abandon some of the 939 boards I have.

NO more wasted money on 939 boards and processors and ram. Hopefully I can make back what I spent on them.

I think the Abit board will be a better fit than the A8n SLI machine but I need to test that first.
I didn't even get to play with the lan party much, but it is going to eBay anyways...

I will look into the XMS ram for giggles.. There are a few auctions below $20 each.. I might try it.

Thanks guys! I'll keep you updated on how things turn out.


----------



## cdoublejj

well somehow my machine has stabilized. i was fairly sure it was capacitors but, after stealing the PSU and GPU (both fine in a new machine) it nows booth with bios hang every time. I can only conclude it some over looked glitch or something i have unplugged atm that wasp lugged in before or some weird bad part combination. regardless i think i'm going to it back together with my freshly restored Antec smart power and an 8800GT.


----------



## poizone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Comp1demon*
> 
> I used the processor, ram and video card from the ABIT as I knew they all worked and the A8N SLI did nothing.. Black screen. No beeps, Just green LED on the board.
> No clue what might be wrong with it.
> You want it? It is yours (less than .01) I will gladly ship it to you whatever way you choose to have it shipped.
> Might be a lost cause. Let me know.


I'll take it anyways, I always enjoy having hardware. I can probably salvage some parts if I can't get it to boot. I'll drop you a PM.

Beyond that, I got back to school, and had a package with a toshiba cooler that looked like it was flat enough to work as a replacement cooler in the pictures. Needless to say, the angles were all wrong, and now I have some modding to do this weekend. Hopefully I don't crack the heatpipes when I pry off the steel support plate, or when I add a Z bend to them to lift the fins up a bit. On the upside, I get to play with my blowtorch more!


----------



## RyanMicah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Comp1demon*
> 
> Disagree.. I have a ABIT KN8 Ultra that will take 8GB of ram...(manufacture states 8GB max) and I have 8GB running on it but I am looking for other boards that support 8GB too.
> I have this facination with 939 boards right now... though I probably should be messing with something newer.
> 
> I was reading up on ECC-unregistered and ECC-registered memory.
> 
> I assume I am better off with ecc-unregistered memory.


Yeah, unregistered is faster and if stable it is sufficient for a home PC.

As for the 2GB sticks, those are ECC only I think, so most don't consider them an option. Plus Win XP 32bit only used 3+GBs anyway. Thats why I got XP Pro x64. Your board isn't rated as a server board I don't believe but because of its 8GB ability it was probably used as such sometimes.


----------



## Comp1demon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyanMicah*
> 
> Yeah, unregistered is faster and if stable it is sufficient for a home PC.
> 
> As for the 2GB sticks, those are ECC only I think, so most don't consider them an option. Plus Win XP 32bit only used 3+GBs anyway. Thats why I got XP Pro x64. Your board isn't rated as a server board I don't believe but because of its 8GB ability it was probably used as such sometimes.


YES XP32 only sees 3.25 GB of ram, but post shows all 8GB useable. SO If I get a 64 bit OS should be fine. Gonna try WIN 764BIT.

Here are the latest benchmarks as I got the GTX 260 today for the ABIT machine.





AN added note is I installed XBMC and ran a 1080P blu ray direct rip (not MKV - but a Stream file).
I noticed no slowdown or cut off after 3 seconds of starting the movie. It played back flawlessly, but if you pause or FF / RW then upon restarting it studders for about 3-5 seconds before stabling.


----------



## frogger4

With all this talk about RAM, I noticed I have a notable RAM problem. (Many people have probably posted same / similar to what I am about to, but I haven't found a solution that works for me yet)

First, I am on Windows 7 home premium 64 bit, with my sig rig with the athlon 64 x2 4200+, Geforce 210, Asus A8N-32 SLI board, with 4 x 1GB RAM.
Anyway, Windows is only using 3 out of 4GB. In Resource Monitor, it shows that 1GB is "hardware reserved."
In my BIOS there is a memory mapping sort of option with "continuous" or "discrete". It does not seem to matter which I choose; the 1gb hardware reserved is still there. If I remove one stick of ram, Windows will use all 3 out of 3 GB. I tried reseating all the ram, clearing CMOS, and msconfig limit ram is unchecked.

This thread is awesome, thank you in advance!


----------



## NBrock

I miss my Asus A8N-SLI Delux with my Opti 165


----------



## RyanMicah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frogger4*
> 
> With all this talk about RAM, I noticed I have a notable RAM problem. (Many people have probably posted same / similar to what I am about to, but I haven't found a solution that works for me yet)
> 
> First, I am on Windows 7 home premium 64 bit, with my sig rig with the athlon 64 x2 4200+, Geforce 210, Asus A8N-32 SLI board, with 4 x 1GB RAM.
> Anyway, Windows is only using 3 out of 4GB. In Resource Monitor, it shows that 1GB is "hardware reserved."
> In my BIOS there is a memory mapping sort of option with "continuous" or "discrete". It does not seem to matter which I choose; the 1gb hardware reserved is still there. If I remove one stick of ram, Windows will use all 3 out of 3 GB. I tried reseating all the ram, clearing CMOS, and msconfig limit ram is unchecked.
> 
> This thread is awesome, thank you in advance!


I personally do not have a problem with you posting this here but you may find help in a windows 7 forum as well. As for your problem, Google didn't net anything? I did a search and found this:

http://social.technet.microsoft.com/Forums/en-US/w7itproperf/thread/9946daa7-6cc7-4c67-b4db-d9bc03c63ea6/

Hope it helps

Edit: Found this thread as well. Seems others here have had a similar issue.

http://www.overclock.net/t/697272/windows-7-hardware-reserved-memory-2-4-gigs-showing


----------



## frogger4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyanMicah*
> 
> I personally do not have a problem with you posting this here but you may find help in a windows 7 forum as well. As for your problem, Google didn't net anything? I did a search and found this:
> 
> http://social.technet.microsoft.com/Forums/en-US/w7itproperf/thread/9946daa7-6cc7-4c67-b4db-d9bc03c63ea6/
> 
> Hope it helps
> 
> Edit: Found this thread as well. Seems others here have had a similar issue.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/697272/windows-7-hardware-reserved-memory-2-4-gigs-showing


Don't worry, I have been googling. The one thing I saw recommended that I haven't tried is reinstalling windows - that really shouldn't be necessary though.


----------



## poizone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frogger4*
> 
> Don't worry, I have been googling. The one thing I saw recommended that I haven't tried is reinstalling windows - that really shouldn't be necessary though.


Do you have memory remapping enabled? This is weird for a 64-bit OS.


----------



## frogger4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poizone*
> 
> Do you have memory remapping enabled? This is weird for a 64-bit OS.


I'm not really sure. My understanding is I have two memory mapping type options: continuous or discrete. I'll post a screenshot later, it doesn't seem self explanatory.

edit I think I will start off with updating the BIOS - I recently got the board and I really have no idea what version it is on.


----------



## poizone

So I finally took the time to actually try out my new chip and am running some benches now. I was able to get it to boot at 234FSB, which is fine with me, cause with the 12x multi I'm right under 2.81GHz. I have my memory at the 1.8 divider, giving me 3GB of DDR420 with 2.5-3-3-8-24 timings. Running the Phoronix test suite right now (Linux benching ftw), so I'll post some results soon. I'll do some prime runs after to see if it's stable, but there's no reason it shouldn't be. This isn't a very major overclock at all compared to most of yours. Just gotta hope the FSB won't screw me over.


----------



## frogger4

Update: Well that was easy! Hidden in the deep depths of the bios, I actually did have a setting for memory hole mapping that I didn't see before








Anyway, Windows is using 4 out of 4 GB now!


----------



## poizone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frogger4*
> 
> Update: Well that was easy! Hidden in the deep depths of the bios, I actually did have a setting for memory hole mapping that I didn't see before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, Windows is using 4 out of 4 GB now!


Glad you got it sorted! Just remember that for when you clear your CMOS next haha.


----------



## Comp1demon

OK - ready to rip my hair out again...

I really Only want to keep ONE of the (3) 939 PC's I have here.
I have an a8n, LANPARTY and ABIT KN8.

I really wanted to keep the ABIT KN8. It supports 8GB of ram.
I wanted to put an SSD in it with Windows 7 64bit.
I have TWO SSD's and I know the SSD's are not the problem.

I tried Standard SATA and I tried RAID mode.
I then tried the Highpoint 622a PCIe card that allowed me to install a SSD on my EVGA board (939) - which is my archade machine and is back in the cabinet running nice!

No matter what I do the machine LOCKS up and I am 100% sure it is because of the SSD.
I honestly think the ABIT machine is going to be more difficult to use a SSD than the EVGA was for me.

Anyone with a ABIT and SSD combo have some advice?

Right now I have WIn 7 64 bit installed on the SSD on my Lanparty - I might just keep that and sell the ABIT and the ASUS.
I would assume the LANPARTY NF4 is better than the ASUS A8NM SLI deluxe? Though the ASUS has 8 SATA ports and the Lanparty only 4.
I guess I need to re-do the ASUS as well before I decide.

A bit disappointed I can't get WIN 7 64 bit on the ABIT machine.. that 8GB of ram would have been nice...
Was really hoping the benchmarks would improve with the 64Bit OS.

That GTX 260 really kicks ass on the 939 machines.. debating if I should pop that in my arcade machine or just but another one.
Not sure if the NVIDIA will work with the DVI to component adapter for my arcade monitor / TV?


----------



## Mr.Scott

The Abit board is not of the same quality as the other two. It's the first one I'd get rid of. The other two boards are pretty close to each other. The DFI will bench better, the Asus has more do-dads.
As far as your 64 bit OS goes, it will only help in gaming and 3D benches. In 2D benches it is much slower.


----------



## soundx98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> The Abit board is not of the same quality as the other two. It's the first one I'd get rid of. The other two boards are pretty close to each other. The DFI will bench better, the Asus has more do-dads.
> As far as your 64 bit OS goes, it will only help in gaming and 3D benches. In 2D benches it is much slower.


Mr Scott hit the nail on the head


----------



## cdoublejj

does the asus have ahci? does the asus lock up with a ssd?


----------



## RyanMicah

Not an advert for a sale...but I think I'm going to sell my Crossfire board, my Opty 175, two of my HD4850s, my Corsair XMS ram, and the decent air cooler I have to go with it. I could just throw it in a case with a PSU and an old copy of XP but I don't know if I'd get what it's worth. I have a 939 x2 3800+ system too, OC'd to 2.4ghz from 2.0 also. I have so many systems now that I'll never even use either skt939 system again.

I'm on a Core i5. My gf has a Core 2 Duo E6600. I have a Phenom II X3 720 system, an X2 7850 system, and a Phenom II X3 laptop. Then there's an old P4 775 system, and an older Celeron system I want to unload. LOL I'm surrounded by PCs and I live in a one bedroom apartment. I think I'm gonna Craigslist it. I can't sell it here so I might throw them up on Tom's as well.


----------



## Comp1demon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> does the asus have ahci? does the asus lock up with a ssd?


No ahci - no 939 board does from what I read.

The Abit KN8 said it did on one site I looked up, but I guess not.
Even the Rocket Highpoint 622a AHCI card that worked for my EVGA board does not work on the ABIT.

I am going to have to test the A8N eventually.


----------



## toughacton

Well I finally got a new PSU and was able to get my SLI-DR rockin again http://valid.canardpc.com/2734958 Got this stable, but its a bit higher Vcore than I would like. Also the RAM problem I had on the ASUS board is absent on this one. The same sticks show 3 gigs in windows which should be right since i have a 1 gig vid card. Using the rig for a HTPC for the moment as well as for older source games. I really missed actually having real OC options like voltage


----------



## Comp1demon

Having lanparty NF4 ultra issues.

To test the board I had 2GB of Kingston ram (4x512mb) Today I took the 3GB of XMS memory Corsair XMS memory sticks out of my a8n sli and when I popped them in the lan party (3 leds) Long beep memory errors) Any Ideas? I cleared CMOS and same thing.

I really want to try and get this lanpaarty board going.

Both the lanparty and the Abit baord with the same video card and processor have 3d marks scoresx 2000 point difference.
Would 1GB of ram be a 2000 point difference?

Also anyone know what the right BIOS is for the Lanparty NF4 Ultra? (HAS SLI but only 4 sata ports not 8)
I tried every bios I could find and when I go to flash it tells me it is not the right bios.
Also is there a write protect Jumper or setting in the bios? I cannot seem to find one?

Any help would be very appreciated I want to wrap this up as soon as I can....


----------



## frogger4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Comp1demon*
> 
> ...
> 
> To test the board I had 2GB of Kingston ram (4x512mb) Today I took the 3GB of XMS memory Corsair XMS memory sticks out of my a8n sli and when I popped them in the lan party (3 leds) Long beep memory errors) Any Ideas? I cleared CMOS and same thing.
> 
> ...


Try the lan party with only one stick of the corsair to see if you can first get it to boot at all. I know this sounds silly, but did you accidentally not but a stick in the A1 slot, but put the other three in A2, B1, B2?


----------



## Comp1demon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frogger4*
> 
> Try the lan party with only one stick of the corsair to see if you can first get it to boot at all. I know this sounds silly, but did you accidentally not but a stick in the A1 slot, but put the other three in A2, B1, B2?


I have 3 (1GB) sticks of XMS memory.

I tried all 3 in A1,A2,B1 - A2,B1,B2 - A1,B1,A2, - A1,B1,B2 - no combo worked.

Then I tried only 2 of the 3 sticks. A1,A2 - B1,B2 - A1,B1 - A2,B2 - no combo worked.

I did not try a single stick (yet) Right now I have them back in my a8n sli and i updated the 4400+ to the 180 opteron and dropped the gtx 260 in there.
so far also 2000 points lower in 3d mark???

I don't get it? Can the MOBO make that much of a difference? I am using the same exact 180 processor (swapping it back and forth) and the same gtx 260. Now the abit did have 8gb of ram in it but it is ecc registered ram and windows only see 3.25gb in xp so i doubt it is using all 8gb of ram. now the Corsair XMS memory is faster than the kingston ecc registered memory in the abit board and i have 3.0GB as opposed to 3.25gb in XP on the a8n sli deluxe and the 3d mark scores are 2000 points lower?? I just don't get it?


----------



## frogger4

To be honest, that sounds really weird and doesn't make particular sense to me either. Do you see that performance difference in other benchmarks as well? Try a non graphics benchmark and then some other graphics benchmarks to see if that is just a fluke or if the trend continues.


----------



## Comp1demon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frogger4*
> 
> To be honest, that sounds really weird and doesn't make particular sense to me either. Do you see that performance difference in other benchmarks as well? Try a non graphics benchmark and then some other graphics benchmarks to see if that is just a fluke or if the trend continues.


Yea it don't make any sense at all. In the Abit Machine.

VIdeo and Processor exactly the same as other machines. 6400-7100 3dmark06 benchmark. (ssd and non-ssd drvies) Win Xp and Win 7
But on the Abit board in win xp on a 5400 old HDD. I get 8900-9350 3dmark06 scored. The CPU Score is consistent from machine to machine 1846 (within 10 points). But the Framrates are way slower. Now I never overclocked before but the GTX 260 Maxcore55 Card has a Default clock of 590 CPU and 999 Ram Speed. I never overclocked a video card before. SO I downloaded EVGA's overclock tool and overclocked to 690/1200 (which was stable and pretty much safe based on years of threads I read on other forums with people with the same card) And even overclocked, the scores are only a few points different. 6489 to 6997 (really???). Makes no sense to me.

So I tried the opteron 180 and the GTX 260 on both the lan party board and the a8nsli board and scores are similar on both.
The lan party had 2GB of Non ECC ram and the A8n SLI Deluxe had 3GB of ram (XMS memory - the fastest ram for a 939 board).

Can the 8gb of ram be making a 2000 point improvement when XP only sees 3.25GB???
I don't see how?? Also the HDD is non SSD (the board won't take an SSD drive).
I even did an install of win 7 on a SSD on another 939 board (my Evga that works now with SSD and the 622a rocket card) and made a fresh install to a 40GB SSD drive. I let it reboot once after install - so it did not make it back to first boot to install drivers and put the SSD on the ABIT and it booted .. started to install all the drivers for that board and it's components but it locks up. After about 3 minutes. Even after several reboots and seeing that the drivers for every component installed properly. Finally the 5th or 6th reboot it still locked up. So I know the board hates SSD Drives. Funny thing is I found another forum who 2 people claim (who have the same Motherboard) to have SSD working perfectly on the on board SATA ports (latest bios - which i have) not in raid mode.... So no clue - perhaps my board is a mutant??? Fast 3dmark06 scores and no SSD compatibility??!??

UPDATE ON THE a8n-sli DEluxe PC.
I put the OPTY 180 + GTX 260 in there and the 40GB SSD.
THE SSD WORK!!! - If I put it in raid mode (it crashed - BSOD).
I have it in standard IDE mode and it works perfect.
Latest Bios installed too.

I am happy with it but the benchmarks are 74XX On this machine - The Abit still was 2000 points higher.

Going to just give up on the Lan party and the ABIT. Off to EBAY THEY GO.

I also decided that since the a8n sli still has a valid XP config on there I might just keep it.

Any suggesting on cloning a 200GB HDD 100gb/100gb partition with dual boot (XP/WIN7) to a SSD?
Could I use Acronis and do a Standard Clone to a 200GB SSD then just use Gparted?

Might try this anyways. But advice is welcome.


----------



## cdoublejj

well i can't be bothered to find my post but, i was having intermittent posting problems with my Asus A8N32-SLI Deluxe. It wouldn't even post till you hit the reset button, every time like clock work. Power>reset-on. I replaced the PSU, graphics card and sata cable and all is well. my money is on the sata cable as it spot on connector where the insulation meets that "hole" in it looked liek the insulation separated from the black connector. any ways the post was taking forever but, not, not posting like before replaced the cable and posted like normal every time and it boots and posts like normal every time now.

what sucks is i replaced the GTS 250 with an 8800GT the up side is that GTS250 and the other one i had along with the PSU got me a GTX570 for my Core2Haf so yeah the 939 rig works normally now (need to re OC) and i got a video card i could normally never afford/get. Also I found a home for my newly refurbished/restored Antec PSU that I restored my self (fun stuff) since i robbed the old PSU from it for the GTX570. Just need to re OC it and maybe find another 8800GT and mod this one with better cooling as it some issues to begin with, it was free and modding is my thing.

Well all the jibber jabber aside, TL;DR think a sata cable caused intermittent posting issues


----------



## toughacton

As to your lanparty ram issue. they are super picky. anytime you change ram you will have to put 1 stick of the new ram in the far orange slot and reset cmos to get it to boot ( I always have to turn off power supply and depress the power switch to release charge from my caps before I get it to clear). once you can a post with the 1 stick of the new brand of ram you can fill out the rest and it should boot fine. I haven't ever tried mixing ram brands on it, but I imagine it would often have issues with it.

umm this was supposed to be in response to comp1demon. not sure why it didn't quote.


----------



## frogger4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> ...
> Well all the jibber jabber aside, TL;DR think a sata cable caused intermittent posting issues


Glad to hear it! POST always takes a long time on my A8N32-SLI as well, so that may just be the way those boards are.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Comp1demon*
> 
> ...
> 
> UPDATE ON THE a8n-sli DEluxe PC.
> I put the OPTY 180 + GTX 260 in there and the 40GB SSD.
> THE SSD WORK!!! - If I put it in raid mode (it crashed - BSOD).
> I have it in standard IDE mode and it works perfect.
> Latest Bios installed too.
> 
> I am happy with it but the benchmarks are 74XX On this machine - The Abit still was 2000 points higher.
> 
> Going to just give up on the Lan party and the ABIT. Off to EBAY THEY GO.
> 
> I also decided that since the a8n sli still has a valid XP config on there I might just keep it.
> 
> Any suggesting on cloning a 200GB HDD 100gb/100gb partition with dual boot (XP/WIN7) to a SSD?
> Could I use Acronis and do a Standard Clone to a 200GB SSD then just use Gparted?
> 
> Might try this anyways. But advice is welcome.


That's great that the SSD works with the A8N-SLI! That makes sense, with that being the same way the SSD is set up on my board.

The A8N-SLI has that silly card by the PCIe slots that you can flip for single vs double gpu. You have it on single gpu, right? (That's the last thing I can think of that would give the difference in scores).

For the drive cloning, I think that would work. I've had trouble with Acronis before, but it should work. I ended up buying Norton Ghost for drive cloning - it really is the easiest and does exactly what you need, but it costs as much as our 939 hardware is worth


----------



## Xyro TR1

This weekend, my Opty 180, A8N-E, and one of the HD4850s came back into my possession.







Sadly, the SB fan on the A8N-E has kaput, rendering the combo crippled. I haven't looked into replacing it yet, but I'd really love to get this thing back up and running.









Ye olde system
http://www.overclock.net/lists/display/view/id/1149274


----------



## Comp1demon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*
> 
> This weekend, my Opty 180, A8N-E, and one of the HD4850s came back into my possession.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sadly, the SB fan on the A8N-E has kaput, rendering the combo crippled. I haven't looked into replacing it yet, but I'd really love to get this thing back up and running.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ye olde system
> http://www.overclock.net/lists/display/view/id/1149274


http://www.ebay.com/itm/ARX-53mm-North-Bridge-Chipset-Cooler-Fan-for-ASUS-A8N-E-A8N32-SLI-A8N5X-K8N4-E-/170939228229?pt=US_Memory_Chipset_Cooling&hash=item27ccc5a045


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Comp1demon*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/ARX-53mm-North-Bridge-Chipset-Cooler-Fan-for-ASUS-A8N-E-A8N32-SLI-A8N5X-K8N4-E-/170939228229?pt=US_Memory_Chipset_Cooling&hash=item27ccc5a045


Glorious! Thanks, bud!


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frogger4*
> 
> Glad to hear it! POST always takes a long time on my A8N32-SLI as well, so that may just be the way those boards are.
> That's great that the SSD works with the A8N-SLI! That makes sense, with that being the same way the SSD is set up on my board.
> 
> The A8N-SLI has that silly card by the PCIe slots that you can flip for single vs double gpu. You have it on single gpu, right? (That's the last thing I can think of that would give the difference in scores).
> 
> For the drive cloning, I think that would work. I've had trouble with Acronis before, but it should work. I ended up buying Norton Ghost for drive cloning - it really is the easiest and does exactly what you need, but it costs as much as our 939 hardware is worth


post when from "................................................" to "..." after changing the cable.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*
> 
> Glorious! Thanks, bud!


BWAHAHAHAHAHAHA, i wouldn't touch that with a ten foot pole. I'd grab finned heat sink from a dead mobo and glue/clip it on and have sort of fan near for air flow. seriously though that is garbage.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> BWAHAHAHAHAHAHA, i wouldn't touch that with a ten foot pole. I'd grab finned heat sink from a dead mobo and glue/clip it on and have sort of fan near for air flow. seriously though that is garbage.


I am actually going to order this one. Since it's OEM, y'know.

Passive heatsink won't do, they made it active for a reason. Also, you don't have to be rude about it.


----------



## cdoublejj

I always figured who ever decided to use those on heat generating parts must have literally been a pile of rocks because a shovel and bucket tested with a higher a IQ. There are no fins to dissipate heat it merely has only 4 sides. to top that off that fan is going to have almost no air movement, non that is capable of actually moving air, at best it swirl it around in the same spot. It truly is a flawed design. I feel a could do a better job engineering than that.



something like this has WAY more surface area and cools better, probably even with out a fan, still fits the form factor and is easily acquired.

EDIT: consider my rudeness towards the heat sink and design. I don't bare any hostility towards you. In fact That's why i'm telling you because I want you hardware to have a long and happy life.


----------



## RyanMicah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*
> 
> I am actually going to order this one. Since it's OEM, y'know.
> 
> Passive heatsink won't do, they made it active for a reason. Also, you don't have to be rude about it.


Wayyy too costly. You can get a much better cooler for the price.

I agree with the above post. If you can get away with a non low-profile cooler, do it.

If you have to go with low-profile, this might be an option:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/270934277845?hlp=false


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*
> 
> This weekend, my Opty 180, A8N-E, and one of the HD4850s came back into my possession.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sadly, the SB fan on the A8N-E has kaput, rendering the combo crippled. I haven't looked into replacing it yet, but I'd really love to get this thing back up and running.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ye olde system
> http://www.overclock.net/lists/display/view/id/1149274


Ive got an old chipset cooler you can have. Looks like garbage, but works.



I'll include the pin mounts too.

My 939 board has a better cooler, and I don't need this one. Fan is upgraded with one with RPM sensor. The original was just 2 pin.


----------



## cdoublejj

That Enzo Tech will destroy those cheap active cooled ones on the other hand free but. i really do caution against them. I hate to hate on a free offer. I'm repping for that because that was really kind.


----------



## SwishaMane

Actually my free offer cooler does decently well, just have to keep it flat against the chip, coolers for nF4 have a tendency to move even while mounted, it could rock on the chip. I recommend nut and bolt mounting it vs. the pins.


----------



## cdoublejj

if you use the dot method and put some flat even pressure on it after mounting and wiggle it a smidgen and leave it alone. the heat will help cure the AS5 or what ever you use. kind of glueing it in place.


----------



## Xyro TR1

I greatly appreciate all the help, guys.







I really haven't paid too much attention to the thing, nor have I properly researched cooling. Your input helps! I have a feeling this will be a gift to one of my friends who is one of this thread's veterans, so I really want to make sure it's 100% right before it goes out.


----------



## StormX2

yah my old MSI Neo 4-f chipset fan died once and they replaced it with a much nicer one through the mail. quite happy with it actually cus the old one used to overheat randomly.

I might be getting my old 939 rig back from my father, and his dead gateway which had a 775 quad in it to play with.

I really want to play with the 939 again, too bad winter overclocking is pretty much over.


----------



## rhkcommander959

Still looking for 4x1 of not crap mem. Got my eye on a few options. My 4x512 tracers are still kicking butt although that doesn't leave much room running windows 7







. Have a few targets in mind, might not bother for ddr500 anymore, just tight timings at 400 maybe









crucial still sells 2x2gb ecc reg mem.... only 300$


----------



## cdoublejj

you could always put an insanely high bounty out for 4x1gb ddr 500


----------



## toughacton

Well if you are willing to spend ~$100 then the gskills that new egg has will run 2.5 3 3 5 with 2 T command rate (natually with 4 sticks) I think a few pages back i post a cpu-z using them at slightly over ddr400 at those timings and 2.75 ish volts. i truly haven't pushed them much to see how far they will go but ddr 450 is probably possible at looser timings. Since i use it as a htpc i don't get to mess with it much as it is being used by my family to watch netflix, but if i get the chance I'll see what i can get stable if you are interested.

On a side note i haven't been able to get my ddr500 ballistix to post







i hope i didn't break them trying to go for ddr600 a few months back.


----------



## cdoublejj

put them on a self and let them sit fora year. i've seen things work after being dead and sitting for a while.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> put them on a self and let them sit fora year. i've seen things work after being dead and sitting for a while.


Kind of sounds like a walk away and cool off a bit to free up your soul from frustration before trying again when all your thoughts are more in tune and broadened by time gone by and the thoughts of what you could try differently next time around


----------



## TB13

Hey guys, I currently have 2 939 setups. One is a MSI K8N Neo4/SLI with a Athlon 3800+ and the other is a Gigabyte GA-K8N Ultra-SLI with a Athlon 4800. I swap 2gb of Corsair XMS out of the systems when I use them. I have a question for you guys, which setup is better? I haven't really messed with either setup, I would like to sell one of the setups, but I am unsure what I should keep and what I should sell.


----------



## N2Gaming

What ever set up gives you the best FSB overclocks while staying cool... Most boards were pretty sturdy back in the 939 days but you may also want to look into which board has the best power control in the circuits.


----------



## TB13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*
> 
> What ever set up gives you the best FSB overclocks while staying cool... Most boards were pretty sturdy back in the 939 days but you may also want to look into which board has the best power control in the circuits.


The Neo4 has a beefy cooler on the power delivery system, while the Ultra SLI has no cooling at all. I couldn't get the 4800+ over 2.3GHz on the Ultra SLI, maybe I should give it a try on the Neo4 and see if it gives me some better results.


----------



## frogger4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TB13*
> 
> The Neo4 has a beefy cooler on the power delivery system, while the Ultra SLI has no cooling at all. I couldn't get the 4800+ over 2.3GHz on the Ultra SLI, maybe I should give it a try on the Neo4 and see if it gives me some better results.


Yep exactly. Just based on the heatsinks, the Neo4 sounds like the one to keep. It would be interesting to see if the overclock is higher.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frogger4*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TB13*
> 
> The Neo4 has a beefy cooler on the power delivery system, while the Ultra SLI has no cooling at all. I couldn't get the 4800+ over 2.3GHz on the Ultra SLI, maybe I should give it a try on the Neo4 and see if it gives me some better results.
> 
> 
> 
> Yep exactly. Just based on the heatsinks, the Neo4 sounds like the one to keep. It would be interesting to see if the overclock is higher.
Click to expand...

In theory this sounds correct but overclocks can also have a lot to do w/bios options.

Even though a board may have better cooling of the power control, it is possible it needs it due to weaker circuits oh and don't forget it may also lack bios options. I have never owned either of those boards so I have no idea which board has what in the bios.


----------



## rhkcommander959

Those ballistix need fans, depending on the clip type it is very pikely that the heat spreaders arent making much contact. The stubby clips have lifting issues.

Found a few options that are better than the gskills. I heard they wont clock much. Found some cl2 ddr 400's.... And some others that i hope to be better. But they are likely infineon ic's so dont get too excited lol


----------



## rhkcommander959

Also there was a kit i bought on ebay of tracers, they wouldnt work at rated speeds, they would error out instantly and then the computer would freeze and not post. Left it off for the night and it came back on after sleeping. Quickly got into bios before that repeated, set it for 400 and all timings and subs, and it was mostly stable. Much higher would cause the issue again. With fans. So my theory is a solder joint or just degradation from heat... Might be similar to your issue?

Its too bad no one makes great ddr anymore. And prices are still up there. But im glad some still make decent mem.

Once i get the memory ill see if i can push my optys or 3800x2 to 3.2 or better... Probably whip out the tec. I know all my chips do 3, but im hoping for 3.2+++







. Edit: found some old screenshots of wprime, 3dmark01, etc with 3.1-3.2... If i cant get 3.2 anymore ill be in the market for one. Iirc at that speed it was close to a stock conroe lol


----------



## TB13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frogger4*
> 
> Yep exactly. Just based on the heatsinks, the Neo4 sounds like the one to keep. It would be interesting to see if the overclock is higher.


I popped the 4200+ in the MSI board and I am going to mess with it a bit later tonight.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*
> 
> In theory this sounds correct but overclocks can also have a lot to do w/bios options.
> 
> Even though a board may have better cooling of the power control, it is possible it needs it due to weaker circuits oh and don't forget it may also lack bios options. I have never owned either of those boards so I have no idea which board has what in the bios.


Both boards have fully featured bios's, I think the Neo4 has a bit better one than the Ultra-SLI though. I will try and OC the 4200+ and let you guys know what I can get out of it.

*Edit:* Anone know what this is all about? Do I need to update the BIOS or something for it to support dual core CPU's?


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> Also there was a kit i bought on ebay of tracers, they wouldnt work at rated speeds, they would error out instantly and then the computer would freeze and not post. Left it off for the night and it came back on after sleeping. Quickly got into bios before that repeated, set it for 400 and all timings and subs, and it was mostly stable. Much higher would cause the issue again. With fans. So my theory is a solder joint or just degradation from heat... Might be similar to your issue?
> 
> Its too bad no one makes great ddr anymore. And prices are still up there. But im glad some still make decent mem.
> 
> Once i get the memory ill see if i can push my optys or 3800x2 to 3.2 or better... Probably whip out the tec. I know all my chips do 3, but im hoping for 3.2+++
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Edit: found some old screenshots of wprime, 3dmark01, etc with 3.1-3.2... If i cant get 3.2 anymore ill be in the market for one. Iirc at that speed it was close to a stock conroe lol


I'll check the heat spreaders. I seem to remember them kinda peeling away before I used them the first time. Though as you can see in the rig pic i have a RAM fan. It may also be that I will have to preset the timings in bios with another set and then swap. the ddr500 ran at 3-4-4-8 I believe, and most of my other RAM is 2.5 or better. I have 4 512 ballistix sticks that run 2-2-2-5 at ddr 500 (maybe higher) but i like having the 4 gigs more than the higher speeds (though having both would be awesome)


----------



## nategr8ns

TB13, my MSI K8N was insanely easy to overclock on. Maybe not as capable as my Ultra-D, but man, within 20-60 minutes I could get damn close to what my DFI board could get to after days of fiddling.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*
> 
> Kind of sounds like a walk away and cool off a bit to free up your soul from frustration before trying again when all your thoughts are more in tune and broadened by time gone by and the thoughts of what you could try differently next time around

















:laugher:
If you say so








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> Also there was a kit i bought on ebay of tracers, they wouldnt work at rated speeds, they would error out instantly and then the computer would freeze and not post. Left it off for the night and it came back on after sleeping. Quickly got into bios before that repeated, set it for 400 and all timings and subs, and it was mostly stable. Much higher would cause the issue again. With fans. So my theory is a solder joint or just degradation from heat... Might be similar to your issue?
> 
> Its too bad no one makes great ddr anymore. And prices are still up there. But im glad some still make decent mem.
> 
> Once i get the memory ill see if i can push my optys or 3800x2 to 3.2 or better... Probably whip out the tec. I know all my chips do 3, but im hoping for 3.2+++
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Edit: found some old screenshots of wprime, 3dmark01, etc with 3.1-3.2... If i cant get 3.2 anymore ill be in the market for one. Iirc at that speed it was close to a stock conroe lol


I have 4GB of G.Skill 4000HZs that I'm not currently using. They're in the FS thread in my sig unofficially since I have no price on them. Let me know what they're worth to you







.


----------



## poizone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*
> 
> TB13, my MSI K8N was insanely easy to overclock on. Maybe not as capable as my Ultra-D, but man, within 20-60 minutes I could get damn close to what my DFI board could get to after days of fiddling.


How in the..? I can't get my FSB over 238, ever.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TB13*
> 
> I popped the 4200+ in the MSI board and I am going to mess with it a bit later tonight.
> Both boards have fully featured bios's, I think the Neo4 has a bit better one than the Ultra-SLI though. I will try and OC the 4200+ and let you guys know what I can get out of it.
> 
> *Edit:* Anone know what this is all about? Do I need to update the BIOS or something for it to support dual core CPU's?


That's a bios upgrade needed. Your board was probably manufactured before the dual cores were finalized.


----------



## TB13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*
> 
> TB13, my MSI K8N was insanely easy to overclock on. Maybe not as capable as my Ultra-D, but man, within 20-60 minutes I could get damn close to what my DFI board could get to after days of fiddling.


Sweet!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poizone*
> 
> That's a bios upgrade needed. Your board was probably manufactured before the dual cores were finalized.


I got it updated today, its working perfectly now plus the board thinks its a Platinum now


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poizone*
> 
> How in the..? I can't get my FSB over 238, ever.
> That's a bios upgrade needed. Your board was probably manufactured before the dual cores were finalized.


I dunno, I'm pretty sure I used to run ~260FSB or higher daily. That's about 2.9ghz on my 175 (x11 multi) IIRC.


----------



## cssorkinman

I have a couple MSI K8N neo 4's and they both overclock very well. 290 mhz fsb on one and I've had the other at 310 or so.

I would agree with Nate, very easy to work with those boards


----------



## TB13

Alright, so I got my CPU OC'd to 2.5GHz and everything is running great, but I am only getting about 20% usage out of my GPU. This doesn't seem right to me considering some of you guys can run dual GPU setup's no problem.

Edit: Weird, it only does it in Gmod...


----------



## cdoublejj

Any one playing modern games on decent 939 rigs? I have played some Batman AA and BioShock but, about BioShock Infinite and Saints Row 3 or even GTA V when it comes out. I think I might take the time to DL and install Mafia 2.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> I have a couple MSI K8N neo 4's and they both overclock very well. 290 mhz fsb on one and I've had the other at 310 or so.
> 
> I would agree with Nate, very easy to work with those boards


My Ultra D can go over 340 properly setup as I discovered a few weeks ago. I thought it was a poor FSB clocking board earlier but once I got it figured out, it delivered.



My A8N32 SLI Deluxe can also go to about 330 reliably but it's hit 350 before as well with my 4000+ San Diego chip.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> Any one playing modern games on decent 939 rigs? I have played some Batman AA and BioShock but, about BioShock Infinite and Saints Row 3 or even GTA V when it comes out. I think I might take the time to DL and install Mafia 2.


Bioshock, Just Cause 2, one of the Need For Speeds from a few years ago, and Dirt 2.

I'm still of the opinion that gaming really still depends on graphics card almost entirely, and that our old dual cores are still fine.


----------



## RyanMicah

TF2 can be played on them, but Supreme Commander cannot. At least not well.







As for more modern games, it all depends on the requirements. A high end skt 939 is equal to a low-mid ranged Core 2 Duo I think.


----------



## SwishaMane

Messed with my 939 tonight a little, pushed my RAM to 3-3-3-7-7-1t, at 245mhz. (308 x 9.5 @ 166) Noticeably faster, but not sure on 100% stable. Didn't crash, but its as fast as i can go while maintaining 2.9 - 2.940ghz, after that, the 185 is unstable.







WISH i could get CL 2.5, but nope...


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Messed with my 939 tonight a little, pushed my RAM to 3-3-3-7-7-1t, at 245mhz. (308 x 9.5 @ 166) Noticeably faster, but not sure on 100% stable. Didn't crash, but its as fast as i can go while maintaining 2.9 - 2.940ghz, after that, the 185 is unstable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WISH i could get CL 2.5, but nope...


OCZ Platinums. I'm sure we could make an arrangement if you'd like them. I'll never use them again. I mostly stick to BH-5 sticks now.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> OCZ Platinums. I'm sure we could make an arrangement if you'd like them. I'll never use them again. I mostly stick to BH-5 sticks now.


Dang nice!


----------



## Comp1demon

Does anyone know if ATI cards work in Crossfire mode on Nforce 4 boards?


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Comp1demon*
> 
> Does anyone know if ATI cards work in Crossfire mode on Nforce 4 boards?


SLI only. No CF.


----------



## rhkcommander959

got 4 sticks of ocz pc3500, runnign at ddr400 2.5 3 3 7 2t. with h/w and s/w memory mapping, only 3.5gbs roughly show up. Is this just old bios limitations of 32-bit? Kinda like xp only showing that much?

I assume that is the issue, since 3.5*1024= 3584. Memtest shows 3582...

This is on a DFI CFX3200


----------



## Comp1demon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> SLI only. No CF.


Thanks MR.Scott.... Guess I am only Grabbing one 1950XTX then.

Turns out the DVI to COmponet adapter I was using on my X1800XT to output to my Tube TV (arcade monitor) does not work with newer ATI cards/ I read that the X1XX series was the last series to support them. I ended up pulling the X1800XT out of the PC and selling it with the Lanparty board. I put a HD6770 in there and it don;t work with my component adapter. I even bought a $40 HDMI to component adapter and that didn't work either. So I either need to but another X1800XT or might as well get a better card the X1950XTX seems to be the best card that still supports the component adapter. SO I am going to grab one of them (there only $30 on eBay). I will get slightly better performance than what I had on the X1800XT but the HD6770 wasn't that great anyways even though it is a card from this gen. With the bottle next of PCIE1.0a it was only slightly faster.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> got 4 sticks of ocz pc3500, runnign at ddr400 2.5 3 3 7 2t. with h/w and s/w memory mapping, only 3.5gbs roughly show up. Is this just old bios limitations of 32-bit? Kinda like xp only showing that much?
> 
> I assume that is the issue, since 3.5*1024= 3584. Memtest shows 3582...
> 
> This is on a DFI CFX3200


Correct.


----------



## rhkcommander959

Will windows 64-bit see all 4 or 3.5? Might be a newer bios revision but this is my first no-cold boot freeze-cfx3200... Dont wanna ruin that! I will give it a try in a few days either way.


----------



## RyanMicah

All 4. Windows XP Pro x64 can see a lot more than 4, but I can't remember the max right now. For some reason I am thinking its 16, 32, or 64. Anyway you'll get all 4GBs but part of that will get reserved by the system. Windows 7 64 bit is superior to XP in so many ways though. It frees up more system mem and allocates it better I think and it also can use more total if I recall.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyanMicah*
> 
> Windows 7 64 bit is superior to XP in so many ways though. It frees up more system mem and allocates it better I think and it also can use more total if I recall.


And yet it benches far slower in all 2D benches. Moral of the story, use the correct OS for the applications you plan to run. Newer is not always better.


----------



## frogger4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> And yet it benches far slower in all 2D benches. Moral of the story, use the correct OS for the applications you plan to run. Newer is not always better.


I'm working on getting my FX-55 ready for superpi 1M for HWbot. Would it be worth me getting XP Pro 64bit specifically for that competition?

edit, also, is the 64 bit version necessarily recommended? It won't help me to have more than 2 sticks of RAM anyway.


----------



## Mr.Scott

32 bit XP is the way to go for Pi benches.


----------



## RyanMicah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> And yet it benches far slower in all 2D benches. Moral of the story, use the correct OS for the applications you plan to run. Newer is not always better.


Oh silly me. I forgot we're trying to show off here. I was thinking of practical uses.


----------



## frogger4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> 32 bit XP is the way to go for Pi benches.


Good news! I shaved half a second off my SuperPi 1M time with XP 32bit (MicroXP)

Bad news! My Windows 7 install is bricked now. I get an "Error loading operating system" after POST now when I try to start up from the hard drive with Windows 7 on it.


----------



## rhkcommander959

Probably recoverable. Ive seen many dumb issues around this.

Thanks for the info, im going for windows 7, never had time to get into hwbot for benching...


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> Probably recoverable. Ive seen many dumb issues around this.
> 
> Thanks for the info, im going for windows 7, never had time to get into hwbot for benching...


+1.

See whether your drive(s) are setup for AHCI or Legacy. Win 7 prefers AHCI and XP really likes Legacy, check that setting and give it a try. Having it setup for the wrong setting there will cause errors like that.


----------



## Comp1demon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> +1.
> 
> See whether your drive(s) are setup for AHCI or Legacy. Win 7 prefers AHCI and XP really likes Legacy, check that setting and give it a try. Having it setup for the wrong setting there will cause errors like that.


From the multiple 939 / nforce 4 boards I been messing with lately.. None have AHCI at all.
Even the ABIT that claimed that it was AHCI compliant had no setting.

The EVGA board needed a rocket 622a card with AHCI pass-through to boot SSD.
THE ABIT board would not work at all with SSD.
THE asus board booted right from the onboard sata
the DFI lanparty wouldn't work with SSD onbaord - did not try a card.

I think win 7 will boot on any standard sata drive as I got win 7 working on all nforce boards I had.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Comp1demon*
> 
> From the multiple 939 / nforce 4 boards I been messing with lately.. None have AHCI at all.
> Even the ABIT that claimed that it was AHCI compliant had no setting.
> 
> The EVGA board needed a rocket 622a card with AHCI pass-through to boot SSD.
> THE ABIT board would not work at all with SSD.
> THE asus board booted right from the onboard sata
> the DFI lanparty wouldn't work with SSD onbaord - did not try a card.
> 
> I think win 7 will boot on any standard sata drive as I got win 7 working on all nforce boards I had.


You're correct. There is no AHCI on any of those boards. However, all of those boards will run a SSD with no problem at all unless there is physically something wrong with the board. You just had some bad settings bro. I've had SSD's on boards and platforms way before 939 and all of those worked.


----------



## Marshock

I "appreciate" the socket 939!

It was the first system, by which i learned how to properly overclock, even though it was late, in 2006: Athlon 64 3800+ and DFI nForce 4.


----------



## TB13

I snatched up a new CPU cooler and another 8800GT today to complete my s939 rig, I will report back with what kind of OC I can get.

Also, a quick question for you guys, I am having trouble getting SLI to work with my 8800's, I don't even have an option in the NV control panel to enable it. Any ideas what I am doing wrong?

Here is a picture of it setup on top of a motherboard box


----------



## rhkcommander959

Could be some other dumb issues too. I've seen windows get upset when I have multiple storage drives attached, then removed. Replacing things the exact way they were was ok, files were still there...
Feeling tired, but if I recall completely it had to do with windows putting some files on another drive and throwing a hissy fit when they weren't there. Happened again a month or two ago when I swapped a SSD for a HDD and not for the boot drive either

Have you tried using bootrec to run fixboot and fixmbr? startup repair from a windows disk? When I wake up tomorrow I can probably remember some details a lot better


----------



## SwishaMane

They are two different 8800s. One is G80, and other is G92? That MIGHT be the issue.


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TB13*
> 
> I snatched up a new CPU cooler and another 8800GT today to complete my s939 rig, I will report back with what kind of OC I can get.
> 
> Also, a quick question for you guys, I am having trouble getting SLI to work with my 8800's, I don't even have an option in the NV control panel to enable it. Any ideas what I am doing wrong?
> 
> Here is a picture of it setup on top of a motherboard box


Did you remember to change the SLi setting in BIOS? enable Sli appature or something to that effect.


----------



## TB13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> They are two different 8800s. One is G80, and other is G92? That MIGHT be the issue.


Hmm, I'm not sure if that makes a difference or not... I will look into it
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Did you remember to change the SLi setting in BIOS? enable Sli appature or something to that effect.


I wasn't even aware of the setting







I enabled it, but still no option to enable SLI.


----------



## SwishaMane

Try each 8800 by itself,a nd look at the core through GPU-Z from techpowerup. Awesome prog. That'll make it clear. The G92 is basically an older 9800 core, and G80 was the original 8800. I had a gtx with arctic accelero, was beast on 939.


----------



## TB13

I am so dumb, I didn't have the little PCB switched to SLI mode







She is up and running now and I found out my dead PNY 8800GT works again! Super stoked right now.

I pulled the nVidia branded card apart to find a ridiculous amount of thermal paste on it... Its almost like they wanted to cool the entire area around the die


----------



## TB13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Try each 8800 by itself,a nd look at the core through GPU-Z from techpowerup. Awesome prog. That'll make it clear. The G92 is basically an older 9800 core, and G80 was the original 8800. I had a gtx with arctic accelero, was beast on 939.


Thanks! I got everything for next to nothing so I am pretty happy with it, I am planning on rebuilding my main rig soon, so this will come in handy as a backup while I save up.

New picture, looks way better with matching GPU's


----------



## Comp1demon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TB13*
> 
> Thanks! I got everything for next to nothing so I am pretty happy with it, I am planning on rebuilding my main rig soon, so this will come in handy as a backup while I save up.
> 
> New picture, looks way better with matching GPU's


Lets see some Benchmarks when you can!


----------



## TB13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Comp1demon*
> 
> Lets see some Benchmarks when you can!


For sure, I need to OC it more, I'm only at 2.4GHz at the moment, but once I find the max OC I will run some benches.

*Edit*: The MSI board refuses to post at any FSB higher than 230, where as the Gigabyte will post at 360MHz (maybe higher...), I can see the clear winner out of the two. I am going to throw the 4200+ in the Gigabyte board and see where I can get with that setup.


----------



## SwishaMane

hell yeah, my old DFI will boot clean upwards of 340FSB with right RAM. Dial that puppy in, and go for my 3dmark06 personal best for 939, 11,363 points. I'm gonna be trying for better myself, but 11k on 939 is no joke.


----------



## SwishaMane

Apparently a double post, my bad


----------



## toughacton

Check out the new chip I've got to play with







http://valid.canardpc.com/2763166
This is just a suicide run, but I'm typing from it now. Way too hot to stress test. I've got to find a better cooling solution. I have however got 3Ghz stable I'll post it up when I'm not worried about crashing







Heck with as well as this is holding I may be able to get a 3.2 Ghz valid run







This chip is awesome. I got 2.9 with 1.31V


----------



## frogger4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Check out the new chip I've got to play with
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/2763166
> This is just a suicide run, but I'm typing from it now. Way too hot to stress test. I've got to find a better cooling solution. I have however got 3Ghz stable I'll post it up when I'm not worried about crashing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Heck with as well as this is holding I may be able to get a 3.2 Ghz valid run
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This chip is awesome. I got 2.9 with 1.31V


Excellent!








How hot does it idle like that? You aren't in suicide territory yet!


----------



## TB13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Check out the new chip I've got to play with
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/2763166
> This is just a suicide run, but I'm typing from it now. Way too hot to stress test. I've got to find a better cooling solution. I have however got 3Ghz stable I'll post it up when I'm not worried about crashing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Heck with as well as this is holding I may be able to get a 3.2 Ghz valid run
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This chip is awesome. I got 2.9 with 1.31V


Nice, I wonder how my 4200+ is going to clock...


----------



## SwishaMane

YES! Anyone, come at me bro!







New personal 3dmark06 record for 939...



btw, my CPU (probably), and the gtx260 have headroom. I know the 260 will pass 06 at 756mhz, the CPU is still being played with now that I know my Corsair Plats ability at above timings, Ive got to 245mhz on those, and mebbe 3.2 on the chip with extra voltage. And no, its most likely not stable 24/7, just enough for 3dmark, and thats all i care about... Want to break that 12k barrier.

Anyone know the world record for 3dmark or hwbot for 939?


----------



## TB13

3D Mark06 score with everything at stock clocks, overclocked results to come later on.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> YES! Anyone, come at me bro!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New personal 3dmark06 record for 939...


Don't make me do it Swish......
















Nice run you pulled off though!


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TB13*
> 
> 
> 
> 3D Mark06 score with everything at stock clocks, overclocked results to come later on.


That 2t timing is killing you man. Serious, its a performance degrader big time.

EDIT: After fumbling with my setup, i think what i did was best Im gonna be able to do. I mean, I coudl boot at those settings and push GPU a little more, mebbe even a FSB click or two up. 3.1 looks like limit tho, that was boot at 1.45vCore... I was upwards of 1.6v trying for 3.2,b ut no boot, even 3.150 was giving hassle. Im not gonna kill my opty 185 thats 2.933ghz 24/7 stable, 245mhz DRAM at 3-3-3-7-7-1t for 50 more 3dmark points. 11.6k is my best for now...

Might break out that dreaded ES sometime soon.







Make everyone sweat.


----------



## TB13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> That 2t timing is killing you man. Serious, its a performance degrader big time.


Like I said, that was a 100% stock run, the max usage I got out of my GPU's was 75%. I am working on the CPU OC right now, the RAM will be second and the GPU's will be last.

*Edit*: I'm stuck right now... I can change the voltage only if I leave the multi, FSB, and HT link speed on auto, if I change any of them the voltage is stuck at 1.344v. It didn't do this before I updated the BIOS (It was required to run SLI). Anyone had an issue like this before?


----------



## SwishaMane

That doesnt make sense, most 939 CPUs are 1.375vCore stock... IDK man.


----------



## toughacton

Ok found my highest clock at stock volts or less (at least I think 1.35 is stock for a toledo) http://valid.canardpc.com/2763923 Its soooo close to 3Ghz, but anything over this FSB takes more juice. 3Ghz takes 1.44v to get occt stable. I tried a few shots at higher than 3.1 but didn't get into windows. One of these days I'll try getting my ballistix up and running again hopefully. I'm turning this proc into a comp for my kids to play older games and educational type stuff with. I'm just having fun.







Plus I got the chip free from my brother







along with a A8V deluxe (junk for clocking but a decent board otherwise)

Keep up the awesome 939 work guys







I'll see about getting a higher validation

Oh and did any of you see that opty 190 on ebay a couple of days ago? Wish I had the money to bid on that bad boy just for bragging rights, but 150 for a chip that is obsolete is just too much.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Might break out that dreaded ES sometime soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make everyone sweat.


Me?
Sweat it?
Unobetter.









I know I can handle that ES - Bring it on.








http://www.3dmark.com/3dm06/16775849


----------



## TB13

*Edit* I reflashed the BIOS twice and now the issue is gone... Well, back to OCing!


----------



## jakjak

Wow, I can't believe I found this thread! My S939 X2 3800+ was an upgrade to a Sempron in an OEM compaq, but it was such a smooth running machine that I didn't mind that it was slower than my wife's overclocked E2200. It was miles better than the various P4s I'd had before. In fact, I think my cousin is STILL running it in one of his machines.


----------



## SwishaMane

If anyone needs, Ive got an old Asus A8N-E, with sli premium BIOS I can let go if someone wants to OC. Its a beast, but I put work on it. I won the dual core winter OC contest couple years with it, and my ES, 3.4ghz suicide. For SOMEONE *couch* with a finicky board, who wants to throw down.

Good run Kryton, but uh, that gtx 550 is a little too new dont ya think?


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Good run Kryton, but uh, that gtx 550 is a little too new dont ya think?


If I had a card similar to yours, I'd gladly use it for a fair comparison.
Also have a Sapphire 6870 and a GTX 560 - 448 card I can run with it. I don't have a big assortment of GPU's to run and the era of the GeForce 8800's is where I have a huge blank but some older stuff that's mainly AGP related with a PCI card or two thrown in. I finally bought a few GPU's when I got these and probrably won't buy any more until I have to, these things are expensive!

If you have a 550, 6870 or one of the 560-448's we can give it a go if you want. Your GTX 260 is doing great and obviously a good card to use.


----------



## TB13

Little update with my setup. Turns out running 2x GPU's is making it almost impossible to overclock. So I pulled one of the GPU's out and OC'd it close to the max to get this score. I think I can do a bit better with the CPU and RAM and some OC on the GPU should bump the score up a bit.


----------



## SwishaMane

The only two GPUs I own currently are the gtx 260 and my gtx 580, but I am not pulling that from my main.

And for a fact, I THINK Im confused as for my 3dmark record on 939. I THINK its actually 12,061, on a gtx 285 when I still had it in 2009 or 10, but i cant be absolutely sure. That was with my ES at 3.1 @ 1.80vCore on an H60, LOL. So, I'm shooting for that 12k barrier for sure.


----------



## frogger4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> YES! Anyone, come at me bro!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New personal 3dmark06 record for 939...
> 
> 
> 
> btw, my CPU (probably), and the gtx260 have headroom. I know the 260 will pass 06 at 756mhz, the CPU is still being played with now that I know my Corsair Plats ability at above timings, Ive got to 245mhz on those, and mebbe 3.2 on the chip with extra voltage. And no, its most likely not stable 24/7, just enough for 3dmark, and thats all i care about... Want to break that 12k barrier.
> 
> *Anyone know the world record for 3dmark or hwbot for 939?*


I am not certain if this is a world record, but after some searching here is the best 3DMark 06 on 939 I've seen. 14243 Marks, with a GTX 285 and an Opty 180 at 3.6GHz on a DFI Lanparty UT NF4 SLI-DR Expert. http://hwbot.org/submission/2260726_knopflerbruce_3dmark06_geforce_gtx_285_14243_marks
hot damn.


----------



## SwishaMane

Hot damn is right... Ill never get 3.2, let alone 3.6, this is quite definitely extreme cooling.


----------



## frogger4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> Could be some other dumb issues too. I've seen windows get upset when I have multiple storage drives attached, then removed. Replacing things the exact way they were was ok, files were still there...
> Feeling tired, but if I recall completely it had to do with windows putting some files on another drive and throwing a hissy fit when they weren't there. Happened again a month or two ago when I swapped a SSD for a HDD and not for the boot drive either
> 
> Have you tried using bootrec to run fixboot and fixmbr? startup repair from a windows disk? When I wake up tomorrow I can probably remember some details a lot better


Wow, that worked perfectly, thanks! Back and running again


----------



## TB13

Almost 10k







, this is with my max CPU, the ram should have a bit of headroom and the GPU is still at stock slocks


----------



## SwishaMane

good job, I could break 12k if i could get 3dmark to pass... keeps freezing on second to last test, I think its the GPU. I'm gonna vmod it through bios and push her to that 756 range, i know she can do it. BTW, got my RAM to 260mhz, 3-3-3-7-7-1t, 3.1v,a nd the CPU will boot and run at 3.13ghz so far. Im pushing her full board for a pass at 12k+ hopefully tomorrow.


----------



## frogger4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TB13*
> 
> Almost 10k
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , this is with my max CPU, the ram should have a bit of headroom and the GPU is still at stock slocks


Ooh not bad! I'm curious, is that much voltage really needed to get 2.7GHz stable enough for 3DMark06? I have that exact same CPU and I could get it up to 2.7 with quite a bit less voltage, although I know it wasn't particularly stable.


----------



## TB13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frogger4*
> 
> Ooh not bad! I'm curious, is that much voltage really needed to get 2.7GHz stable enough for 3DMark06? I have that exact same CPU and I could get it up to 2.7 with quite a bit less voltage, although I know it wasn't particularly stable.


What I am pushing, sadly, is necessary. My chip isn't the best, but my cooler keeps the temps in check, so I am okay with 1.55v.

*Edit*: So I managed 10K on the Gigabyte board with the single 8800gt, but I really want to run SLI, so I went back to the MSI board. Turns out I was forgetting to change the memory divider which was why I couldn't get it to post at a FSB over 230, now its booting with 260 no prob. I am running 3Dmark right now with SLI 8800GT's and the CPU at 2.6GHz, results will be up in a bit.

*Edit 2*: Well, I guess my 4200+ just ins't enough to power 2x 8800GT's... I am scoring less than I was with a single card with SLI, yeah, my CPU overclock is a bit lower, but I doubt 100MHz is going to make a big difference.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TB13*
> 
> What I am pushing, sadly, is necessary. My chip isn't the best, but my cooler keeps the temps in check, so I am okay with 1.55v.
> 
> *Edit*: So I managed 10K on the Gigabyte board with the single 8800gt, but I really want to run SLI, so I went back to the MSI board. Turns out I was forgetting to change the memory divider which was why I couldn't get it to post at a FSB over 230, now its booting with 260 no prob. I am running 3Dmark right now with SLI 8800GT's and the CPU at 2.6GHz, results will be up in a bit.
> 
> *Edit 2*: Well, I guess my 4200+ just ins't enough to power 2x 8800GT's... I am scoring less than I was with a single card with SLI, yeah, my CPU overclock is a bit lower, but I doubt 100MHz is going to make a big difference.


I think the issue would be the motherboard, if anything. I think either the NB or SB handle all PCI-e lanes. I wouldn't worry about it to much. Try for the best with 1 and 2 cards separately, then determine which you like better for daily use







.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TB13*
> 
> What I am pushing, sadly, is necessary. My chip isn't the best, but my cooler keeps the temps in check, so I am okay with 1.55v.
> 
> *Edit*: So I managed 10K on the Gigabyte board with the single 8800gt, but I really want to run SLI, so I went back to the MSI board. Turns out I was forgetting to change the memory divider which was why I couldn't get it to post at a FSB over 230, now its booting with 260 no prob. I am running 3Dmark right now with SLI 8800GT's and the CPU at 2.6GHz, results will be up in a bit.
> 
> *Edit 2*: Well, I guess my 4200+ just ins't enough to power 2x 8800GT's... I am scoring less than I was with a single card with SLI, yeah, my CPU overclock is a bit lower, but I doubt 100MHz is going to make a big difference.


You really wanna push that chip? Try some loose RAM timings. 3-3-3-7-7-1t @ 3v. if you can get 235+mhz at CL2.5, then you could get a 3dmark at 250+ at CL3. That would help a ton.


----------



## TB13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*
> 
> I think the issue would be the motherboard, if anything. I think either the NB or SB handle all PCI-e lanes. I wouldn't worry about it to much. Try for the best with 1 and 2 cards separately, then determine which you like better for daily use
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Really? You think its the mobo? I guess it kind of makes since considering people can run 260's and get 100% usage out of them. I might have to grab a 260 or something similar and do some runs with it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> You really wanna push that chip? Try some loose RAM timings. 3-3-3-7-7-1t @ 3v. if you can get 235+mhz at CL2.5, then you could get a 3dmark at 250+ at CL3. That would help a ton.


Thanks for the input, I got the RAM at 264MHz and the CPU at 2.65GHz. It scored 9.8k, but I forgot the OC on the GPU's, so I have to rerun it. Results will be up in a bit.

*Edit*: So close to 10K again! Dual GPU just doesn't seem to run a well as a single 8800GT. I am going to throw my G92 8800GT back in and see what I can get.


----------



## toughacton

Well after some fiddling here's my highest prime stable overclock at stock volts. Not too shabby







now to see what the upper limit is.


----------



## TB13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Well after some fiddling here's my highest prime stable overclock at stock volts. Not too shabby
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now to see what the upper limit is.


That is a really nice chip, wish mine clocked like that.


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TB13*
> 
> That is a really nice chip, wish mine clocked like that.


Just got to my max with this cooling (and probably limited by the 4 sticks of RAM) http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2766333 SOOOOO close to 3.2


----------



## TB13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Just got to my max with this cooling (and probably limited by the 4 sticks of RAM) http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2766333 SOOOOO close to 3.2


Nice, I just bought a Opteron 170 and an ASUS A8N-SLI. The guy said it clocked to around 2.7GHz on stock volts, so I should be able to get 2.9-3GHz out of it. I'm not really sure why I bought the board, I already have 2, but I couldn't pass up $50 for the CPU, Board, 2GB Mushkin ram, and a Scythe HS.


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TB13*
> 
> Nice, I just bought a Opteron 170 and an ASUS A8N-SLI. The guy said it clocked to around 2.7GHz on stock volts, so I should be able to get 2.9-3GHz out of it. I'm not really sure why I bought the board, I already have 2, but I couldn't pass up $50 for the CPU, Board, 2GB Mushkin ram, and a Scythe HS.


thats my main issue. Finding a decent cooler that will fit one of these old boards. very few 2 screw mounts these days and the coolers with the latching hardware tend to be smaller. I wish I'd gotten into OCing these boards earlier when you could still find them. I have a 165 that does 2.7 on stock as well. but it takes quite a bit more volts to get 2.9 stable. 1.45 i think for me. and I can't get 3 ghz cool enough to stress test (though I think i can make it stable.

Really this 4200 x2 could be stable at 3.1 I think if i could just keep the temps down. 1.5 volts makes it run pretty hot. I've been eyeing some bigger zalman coolers to see if they would do the job, maybe for my b-day next week i'll treat myself


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TB13*
> 
> Nice, I just bought a Opteron 170 and an ASUS A8N-SLI. The guy said it clocked to around 2.7GHz on stock volts, so I should be able to get 2.9-3GHz out of it. I'm not really sure why I bought the board, I already have 2, but I couldn't pass up $50 for the CPU, Board, 2GB Mushkin ram, and a Scythe HS.


I know why you bought it - You know a good deal when you see it.
I'm hoping the 170 does well for you.

@ toughacton: Yes, 4 sticks of RAM will hold you back and while that's a great result for the chip, it's capable of more.

Mine has hit over 3.4GHz before on chilled water and if yours happens to be of the same stepping as mine (LCBQE) it should be similar in capability in the right board of course. Keep it cool, use just two sticks and it should go even higher.


----------



## TB13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> thats my main issue. Finding a decent cooler that will fit one of these old boards. very few 2 screw mounts these days and the coolers with the latching hardware tend to be smaller. I wish I'd gotten into OCing these boards earlier when you could still find them. I have a 165 that does 2.7 on stock as well. but it takes quite a bit more volts to get 2.9 stable. 1.45 i think for me. and I can't get 3 ghz cool enough to stress test (though I think i can make it stable.
> 
> Really this 4200 x2 could be stable at 3.1 I think if i could just keep the temps down. 1.5 volts makes it run pretty hot. I've been eyeing some bigger zalman coolers to see if they would do the job, maybe for my b-day next week i'll treat myself


My Zalman HS is a beast. With the volts I am pushing I never see over 50c in prime running small fft's. It didn't come with the right mounting hardware, so I had to rig something up. I am glad my MSI board has a metal backplate, on my Gigabyte board the cooler bends the board really bad.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> I know why you bought it - You know a good deal when you see it.
> I'm hoping the 170 does well for you.


I am hoping for the best. The guy I bought it from said it would boot at 2.9GHz on stock voltage, but wasn't stable so he dropped it to 2.7GHz, that might mean it can take a bit higher OC on stock volts. Meanwhile, I think I am going to try to sell the Gigabyte board and my 3800+ somewhere, I don't need 3 full setup's.


----------



## frogger4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Just got to my max with this cooling (and probably limited by the 4 sticks of RAM) http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2766333 SOOOOO close to 3.2


Wow. That's incredible! Do Toledo's overclock better in general than Manchester's, or is it just a very good chip?


----------



## Comp1demon

OK ... problem....

Got a Brand new X1950XTX 512MB Radeon Card today (was factory sealed from new old stock).

Installed it in the PC, Installed the drivers and every thing seemed fine.

3dmark06 will not complete, either crashes (sometimes on Proxycon - other time completes) or Locks up the PC (canyon flight).
BAD CARD???

Card is stock settings - did not overclock.
I did ramp up the fan to 100% figuring it might be a heat issue and still does not complete

Under powered?

My X1800XT ran for years with no issues....
the X1950XTX needs more power?

ADVICE?

Thanks


----------



## frogger4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Comp1demon*
> 
> OK ... problem....
> 
> Got a Brand new X1950XTX 512MB Radeon Card today (was factory sealed from new old stock).
> 
> Installed it in the PC, Installed the drivers and every thing seemed fine.
> 
> 3dmark06 will not complete, either crashes (sometimes on Proxycon - other time completes) or Locks up the PC (canyon flight).
> BAD CARD???
> 
> Card is stock settings - did not overclock.
> I did ramp up the ran to 100% figuring it might be a heat issue and still does not complete
> 
> Under powered?
> 
> My X1800XT ran for years with no issues....
> the X1950XTX needs more power?
> 
> ADVICE?
> 
> Thanks


Here's a pretty easy way to see if it is a power problem. If I remember right, there isn't voltage control, but you can change the clocks to overclock, correct? That should also mean you can underclock a bit. Lower the core a good 30MHz or so and the memory as well if you can. It would be interesting to see if that helps or not.


----------



## Comp1demon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frogger4*
> 
> Here's a pretty easy way to see if it is a power problem. If I remember right, there isn't voltage control, but you can change the clocks to overclock, correct? That should also mean you can underclock a bit. Lower the core a good 30MHz or so and the memory as well if you can. It would be interesting to see if that helps or not.


Under clock it then.,..

OK

USING ATI TOOL I can easily underclock it.

EDIT...
Under-clocked it and it still locks up in the same spot.
One time it made it slightly further in the bench of the canyon flight but still locked up. I need to completely reboot.

Thinking it is the card??? The X1800Xt and the HD6770 I had in there both completed the benchmarks.
I would put the X1800XT back in there but I sold it. Hence why when I saw a X1950XTX for sale I grabbed it.


----------



## TB13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Comp1demon*
> 
> Under clock it then.,..
> 
> OK
> 
> USING ATI TOOL I can easily underclock it.
> 
> EDIT...
> Under-clocked it and it still locks up in the same spot.
> One time it made it slightly further in the bench of the canyon flight but still locked up. I need to completely reboot.
> 
> Thinking it is the card??? The X1800Xt and the HD6770 I had in there both completed the benchmarks.
> I would put the X1800XT back in there but I sold it. Hence why when I saw a X1950XTX for sale I grabbed it.


Have you tired the card in another system? If it still has issues in another system something might be wrong with it.


----------



## Comp1demon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TB13*
> 
> Have you tired the card in another system? If it still has issues in another system something might be wrong with it.


I guess I will try that next..


----------



## TB13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Comp1demon*
> 
> I guess I will try that next..


Try it, if it works fine, then it might be a driver issue or some kind of incompatibility with your 939 setup.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> thats my main issue. Finding a decent cooler that will fit one of these old boards. very few 2 screw mounts these days and the coolers with the latching hardware tend to be smaller.


939 mod a Hyper 212+.


----------



## Comp1demon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TB13*
> 
> Try it, if it works fine, then it might be a driver issue or some kind of incompatibility with your 939 setup.


I placed the Card in a ASUS A8N-SLI board (also with opty 180 processor).
The setup on this machine is similar, (1GB less ram) and ASUS vs EVGA MOBO. Same processor
The Power supply on the machine it was crashing on was a 520 Watt no name.
The Power Supply on the A8N SLI is a 500 Watt Antec Power Supply.

Running 3dmark06 now with the card in there so far so good.

I will update more later.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> The Power supply on the machine it was crashing on was a 520 Watt no name.


Problem solved.


----------



## Comp1demon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Problem solved.


Not so sure MR.SCOTT.

Is the X1800XT and the X1950XTX really all that different that the PS will make the difference?

I ordered a 650W Termaltake and will try that. I really don't feel like swapping PS between the Two PC's.


----------



## TB13

Okay, so I removed any GPU bottleneck that could have been present by running the setup with my GTX 480.



Looks like the 4200+ has been the bottleneck the whole time. I will run some more when I get my Opty 170.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TB13*
> 
> Okay, so I removed any GPU bottleneck that could have been present by running the setup with my GTX 480.
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like the 4200+ has been the bottleneck the whole time. I will run some more when I get my Opty 170.


Great score for 2.75ghz mane! Change that tRC setting to match tRAS and you might get a noticeable bench improvement. Your RAM might even go CL2.5 at that speed if you run it 3 - 3.2v, but might need active cooling.


----------



## TB13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Great score for 2.75ghz mane! Change that tRC setting to match tRAS and you might get a noticeable bench improvement. Your RAM might even go CL2.5 at that speed if you run it 3 - 3.2v, but might need active cooling.


Thanks, I will try both of those things when I get home. I think my ram should be fine passive, the XMS Pro I have has some massive heatspreaders on it. My Mushkin ram on the other hand would probably need some active cooling

*Edit*: I think my ram is about maxed out, those settings gave it a bit of a bump into the 10.8k range, but nothing major. I am going to see if I can get 2.8GHz out of it and maybe a bot more out of the ram.


----------



## Comp1demon

Interesting new Problem.

On my 939 Rig with A8n SLI MOBO.

The Current Win XP On the Sata Standard drive will not boot with a SSD attached.
But when I boot the SSD (WIN 7 OS) boots fine.

Any Advice?


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Comp1demon*
> 
> Interesting new Problem.
> 
> On my 939 Rig with A8n SLI MOBO.
> 
> The Current Win XP On the Sata Standard drive will not boot with a SSD attached.
> But when I boot the SSD (WIN 7 OS) boots fine.
> 
> Any Advice?


Can't do that. There is a conflict between the MBR's and boot loader on the drives. If you plan to dual boot, you have to set it up correctly to dual boot when you do the OS installs. You can't just plug in two different drives with two different OS's on them.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TB13*
> 
> Thanks, I will try both of those things when I get home. I think my ram should be fine passive, the XMS Pro I have has some massive heatspreaders on it. My Mushkin ram on the other hand would probably need some active cooling
> 
> *Edit*: I think my ram is about maxed out, those settings gave it a bit of a bump into the 10.8k range, but nothing major. I am going to see if I can get 2.8GHz out of it and maybe a bot more out of the ram.


That RAM you have is supposed to be able to do ddr550? It should be able to do 275mhz on stock timings and voltage, supposedly anyway. Crank them up, push that voltage if you need to. If I did 3.2v on some Corsair platinums, you can do it on those 4400 Pros... At least thats what I think you have, the LED ones?


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> YES! Anyone, come at me bro!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New personal 3dmark06 record for 939...
> 
> 
> 
> btw, my CPU (probably), and the gtx260 have headroom. I know the 260 will pass 06 at 756mhz, the CPU is still being played with now that I know my Corsair Plats ability at above timings, Ive got to 245mhz on those, and mebbe 3.2 on the chip with extra voltage. And no, its most likely not stable 24/7, just enough for 3dmark, and thats all i care about... Want to break that 12k barrier.
> 
> Anyone know the world record for 3dmark or hwbot for 939?


Quick dirty overclock on similar hardware. I can tweak it if you want.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> The only two GPUs I own currently are the gtx 260 and my gtx 580, but I am not pulling that from my main.
> 
> And for a fact, I THINK Im confused as for my 3dmark record on 939. I THINK its actually 12,061, on a gtx 285 when I still had it in 2009 or 10, but i cant be absolutely sure. That was with my ES at 3.1 @ 1.80vCore on an H60, LOL. So, I'm shooting for that 12k barrier for sure.


I understand you don't want to pull the 580 from where it's at but that would be the only way you and I could do a comparison with similar hardware..... My MSI GTX 560 - 448 you know can produce numbers close to what a 580 can. It's been a good GPU since I've had it and at first I used it for folding so it's burned in but good.

BTW I just remembered I do have a pair of 8800's that came from my nephew's old Alienware machine but both are either dead or wounded - He let it get too hot and it damaged these cards, one won't do anything and the other has some wonky colors to it, one DVI port has everything looking red and the other port makes everything look blue.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I'm getting pretty good at dumpster diving here guys, lol. Found my sig rig, and I also found a Gigabyte NF4 SLI board (forget exact model), all in the box, along with an Athlon64 3800+ and 2GB of red GSKill DDR400.

Just need to find a dual core and a cooler for it, I might replace this dead C2D rig with it, lol.


----------



## Kryton

Nice find!
I've been guilty of dumpster diving before and found some good stuff as well.

Nothing wrong with a freebie.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Quick dirty overclock on similar hardware. I can tweak it if you want.


NICE! I'm calling it a day on OCing my 939 for awhile, I dont wanna ruin anything, shes a beaut, and doing me WELL. Only if i find some good condition, super GOOD RAM that can do 275+ at 2.5, and this board will boot my ES will I try again.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> I'm getting pretty good at dumpster diving here guys, lol. Found my sig rig, and I also found a Gigabyte NF4 SLI board (forget exact model), all in the box, along with an Athlon64 3800+ and 2GB of red GSKill DDR400.
> 
> Just need to find a dual core and a cooler for it, I might replace this dead C2D rig with it, lol.


Ive got a opty 180, but it would only do 2.6 stable for me.







If you want it.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Only if i find some good condition, super GOOD RAM that can do 275+ at 2.5


Tough find. 2 gig of anything 275+ @ 2.5 cas is pretty rare indeed. Most fast ram (2 gig or more) runs 3-4-4-x. G.Skill HZ's come to mind. They'll do well into the 300 range at those timings. Might be better to look for some BH-5 sticks (BH-5 sticks only come 512 or less). Don't know if you can run 4 decently though. 4 sticks usually defaults your board to a 166 divider. Even so, paired with the right processor, the 2 cas at a high FSB will surprise you.
Just throwing this out at you. Food for thought.

You have a really nice 939 setup BTW.


----------



## SwishaMane

Thanks, did you see the pics in my profile? I love it.


----------



## TB13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> That RAM you have is supposed to be able to do ddr550? It should be able to do 275mhz on stock timings and voltage, supposedly anyway. Crank them up, push that voltage if you need to. If I did 3.2v on some Corsair platinums, you can do it on those 4400 Pros... At least thats what I think you have, the LED ones?


No, I have a set of 3500 Pros, its rated for 438MHz at stock everything. I am at my max with it right now because my board won't let me push more then 2.85v to the ram. I might set it up with my gigabyte board again just to see how high I can get it.


----------



## toughacton

Finally did it with only 2 sticks of the gskill RAM though I get the feeling that I can't do much better without cooling it down more (i do have a new air cooler on the way and I will update you guys on how it does vs. my hyper 101) http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2770041 1Ghz overclock on a 4200 x2









On a sad note I got my 2 i gig ballistix sticks to boot and they are throwing errors on memtest. Though I was still able to boot windows at up to ddr 560 or so. I get the feeling they were messing with stuff with the amount of errors they were throwing though, so I gave up on them.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> I'm getting pretty good at dumpster diving here guys, lol. Found my sig rig, and I also found a Gigabyte NF4 SLI board (forget exact model), all in the box, along with an Athlon64 3800+ and 2GB of red GSKill DDR400.
> 
> Just need to find a dual core and a cooler for it, I might replace this dead C2D rig with it, lol.
> 
> 
> 
> Ive got a opty 180, but it would only do 2.6 stable for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you want it.
Click to expand...

Tempting, but sadly I'm saving all my cash that I do get right now for rent. That's why I went dumpster diving and got this C2D rig setup, lol. It's not even stable where I have it at, but it doesn't crash at least unless I prime it.

Anyway, just wanted to pop in and say hi to everyone.







I might take you up on the Opty in the future though (or anyone with a duallie), so I can set that rig up for TV viewing purposes or something, once I have some spare cash ready to go.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Tempting, but sadly I'm saving all my cash that I do get right now for rent. That's why I went dumpster diving and got this C2D rig setup, lol. It's not even stable where I have it at, but it doesn't crash at least unless I prime it.
> 
> Anyway, just wanted to pop in and say hi to everyone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I might take you up on the Opty in the future though (or anyone with a duallie), so I can set that rig up for TV viewing purposes or something, once I have some spare cash ready to go.


Hi Pio!

I may also have an extra Opty by that time. Nobody is biting my classifieds thread.


----------



## frogger4

Overclocking fun time! I need some help...

I'm working on overclocking my Athlon 64 FX-55, Clawhammer (that's the 130nm version). I'm concerned that one of the following is true: This processor doesn't overclock well, my motherboard is whack, or user error (me!). I'm hoping it's the last of those since that is easiest to fix.

Motherboard: Asus A8N32-SLI Deluxe
RAM: 4 x 1GB Corsair XMS, underclocked with loose timings while I work on the CPU overclock.
CPU: stock is 13 * 200MHz, 2.6GHz.

The multiplier is unlocked, but that isn't all that helpful as I'll explain. For voltages, I'll report what I set in the BIOS, the actual voltage reported by CPU-z is always a little higher.
13 * 200MHz (2.6GHz) requires around 1.375 V.
14 * 200MHz (2.8GHz) requires 1.525 V. Wait what? That's a lot.
12 * 233MHz (2.8GHz) only needs 1.5 V. That's a little better.
12 * 236MHz (2.83GHz) needs 1.5625V to fully boot. CPUz then reports 1.6V. Oh man.

Temperatures are all ok (always under 50 C even at that crazy voltage).

I'd like to get the overclock significantly higher than that (HWbot benching!). I'm willing to slam more voltage through there since that is the point of benching, but I feel like I am already at a point of diminishing returns. From the 939 gurus here, what do you recommend?


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frogger4*
> 
> Overclocking fun time! I need some help...
> 
> I'm working on overclocking my Athlon 64 FX-55, Clawhammer (that's the 130nm version). I'm concerned that one of the following is true: This processor doesn't overclock well, my motherboard is whack, or user error (me!). I'm hoping it's the last of those since that is easiest to fix.
> 
> Motherboard: Asus A8N32-SLI Deluxe
> RAM: 4 x 1GB Corsair XMS, underclocked with loose timings while I work on the CPU overclock.
> CPU: stock is 13 * 200MHz, 2.6GHz.
> 
> The multiplier is unlocked, but that isn't all that helpful as I'll explain. For voltages, I'll report what I set in the BIOS, the actual voltage reported by CPU-z is always a little higher.
> 13 * 200MHz (2.6GHz) requires around 1.35 V.
> 14 * 200MHz (2.8GHz) requires 1.525 V. Wait what? That's a lot.
> 12 * 233MHz (2.8GHz) only needs 1.5 V. That's a little better.
> 12 * 236MHz (2.83GHz) needs 1.5625V to fully boot. CPUz then reports 1.6V. Oh man.
> 
> Temperatures are all ok (always under 50 C even at that crazy voltage).
> 
> I'd like to get the overclock significantly higher than that (HWbot benching!). I'm willing to slam more voltage through there since that is the point of benching, but I feel like I am already at a point of diminishing returns. From the 939 gurus here, what do you recommend?


I seem to remember that ShishaMane had one of those. He might be able to help you some. Though if I remember right they aren't very good clockers...

Yup found it http://www.overclock.net/t/293448/the-socket-939-appreciation-club-and-knowledgebase-official/24840#post_14082163


----------



## Mr.Scott

The Claws just aren't good clockers. If you want to go faster you need to go colder and more voltage.


----------



## frogger4

Shoot I was afraid of that. I just found an interesting bit of information - Apparently the stock voltage for Clawhammer is 1.5V (from Wikipedia for what its worth). I was assuming it is was in the 1.35 to 1.4 range, and so I was a bit disappointed when I needed 1.5V for 200MHz more. From looking at other people's benchmarks, getting above 3GHz requires extreme cooling which I don't have at the moment. But, I can try some more voltage!


----------



## Mr.Scott

FX55 Claw vcore is 1.5v stock.
Much better verification here. http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/K8/AMD-Athlon%2064%20FX-55%20-%20ADAFX55DEI5AS%20(ADAFX55ASBOX).html


----------



## frogger4

Cool, I think I looked at that a while ago, forgot that it listed the vcore. Since I am fairly new to 939 setups (or AMD in general), what is the significance of the 63 deg C max temperature in your opinion? As an example, an Intel i5-2500K throttles at around 95 C (I would never torture one of those like that!), but CPU World lists it as having a max operating temperature of 72.6 C. What happens if anything as you approach the max temperature of these older processors?

As an update, I got up to 12 * 239MHz (2.87 GHz) with a CPUz voltage of 1.648V (temperatures still around 50 C). It seems that weird stuff starts happening as you get into the 1.6V range. Sometimes it boots fine to the desktop, other times it has trouble booting at all. That's to be expected I suppose.

All of this to say, my goal here is to get under 30 seconds in SuperPi 1M - I'm at 33.4 with that CPU overclock, so I might be able to make the rest up with RAM.


----------



## toughacton

Hey guys I just started a new thread about some RAM I had laying around that is possible pc4200!! If you have any experience with the stuff I'd appreciate you taking a look at it http://www.overclock.net/t/1383797/pc4200-ddr1-mystery-ram#post_19789262

Also I just got a new toy! Asus A8R32-MVP Deluxe and 2 512MB x1950pros! Still waiting on the xfire bridges to get things set up, but the board works great from what I can tell. Though it seems to be much harder to OC than my DFI. I've read a little about it and it seems there are a lot of fiddly RAM settings and other HT things that need to be loosened up or set to something specific in order to get it to OC well. I'm stuck at 228HTT at the moment on an opty165 lol. Although I never did get this chip to OC worth a darn on the DFI (but that was pretty early in my OCing days so I may have just had something set wrong) I'm also concerned that the 2 1950s are different brands. Will they still xfire alright? They are both 512MB though 1 is a sapphire and one is a gecube? I think. i can't wait to get it all put together and start benching (especially if the 2x512 sticks i got really are DDR533


----------



## danilon62

Oh socket 939, what times...

I own a Sempron 3200+, found on my "server" rig, can I join?


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frogger4*
> 
> Cool, I think I looked at that a while ago, forgot that it listed the vcore. Since I am fairly new to 939 setups (or AMD in general), what is the significance of the 63 deg C max temperature in your opinion? As an example, an Intel i5-2500K throttles at around 95 C (I would never torture one of those like that!), but CPU World lists it as having a max operating temperature of 72.6 C. What happens if anything as you approach the max temperature of these older processors?
> 
> As an update, I got up to 12 * 239MHz (2.87 GHz) with a CPUz voltage of 1.648V (temperatures still around 50 C). It seems that weird stuff starts happening as you get into the 1.6V range. Sometimes it boots fine to the desktop, other times it has trouble booting at all. That's to be expected I suppose.
> 
> All of this to say, my goal here is to get under 30 seconds in SuperPi 1M - I'm at 33.4 with that CPU overclock, so I might be able to make the rest up with RAM.


You won't make 3 seconds up with the ram.

IMO, the 63c max is the point of damage. Realistically, heat instability starts around 50c in pretty much all 939 processors. The Opterons can take a little more than the others, but not much more.


----------



## frogger4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> You won't make 3 seconds up with the ram.
> 
> IMO, the 63c max is the point of damage. Realistically, heat instability starts around 50c in pretty much all 939 processors. The Opterons can take a little more than the others, but not much more.


That's good information, thank you. Some of the weirdness I was seeing might have been temperature related then so I will try to keep it cooler.


----------



## TB13

My Opteron showed up today, I've got it running at 2.8GHz on stock volts, bench results to come!

*Edit*: Oh snap, with just the CPU OC'd to 2.8GHz I managed 10k with an 8800GT, I am going to go tweak the ram and find my max OC on the CPU. More coming later!


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TB13*
> 
> My Opteron showed up today, I've got it running at 2.8GHz on stock volts, bench results to come!
> 
> *Edit*: Oh snap, with just the CPU OC'd to 2.8GHz I managed 10k with an 8800GT, I am going to go tweak the ram and find my max OC on the CPU. More coming later!


Looking good there! Working on my own OC and tomorrow I will be setting up my 512mb 1950pro crossfire setup (hopefully since its 2 different brands... and ive never crossfired before) On a good note I've got this RAM DDR 500 stable. and here's the valid on it http://valid.canardpc.com/2775972 I just wish i could have gotten the same results at 1:1 ratio. I'm hoping for a 10K score too with luck though I'm not sure if this set up can get there. MAybe if i can get up to 3 GHz


----------



## frogger4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Looking good there! Working on my own OC and tomorrow I will be setting up my 512mb 1950pro crossfire setup (hopefully since its 2 different brands... and ive never crossfired before) On a good note I've got this RAM DDR 500 stable. and here's the valid on it http://valid.canardpc.com/2775972 I just wish i could have gotten the same results at 1:1 ratio. I'm hoping for a 10K score too with luck though I'm not sure if this set up can get there. MAybe if i can get up to 3 GHz


That's some fast RAM right there! I bet with overvolting they could go higher still


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frogger4*
> 
> That's some fast RAM right there! I bet with overvolting they could go higher still


Ask and ye shall receive! http://valid.canardpc.com/2775997 ~ ddr533 at 2.7V Its lovin this divider! I've been running at this Voltage for quite a while. though i was having stability issues with this board until i set it to the 185 divider or 9:10 or whatever. now its screaming fast and stable









OK so I lie, here is where I leave it for the night http://valid.canardpc.com/2776011 DDR 540 and a 900 MHz OC with a HT of 1500!!! loving this board. I hope if survives P95 overnight!


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Ask and ye shall receive! http://valid.canardpc.com/2775997 ~ ddr533 at 2.7V Its lovin this divider! I've been running at this Voltage for quite a while. though i was having stability issues with this board until i set it to the 185 divider or 9:10 or whatever. now its screaming fast and stable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK so I lie, here is where I leave it for the night http://valid.canardpc.com/2776011 DDR 540 and a 900 MHz OC with a HT of 1500!!! loving this board. I hope if survives P95 overnight!


Looking good!


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Ask and ye shall receive! http://valid.canardpc.com/2775997 ~ ddr533 at 2.7V Its lovin this divider! I've been running at this Voltage for quite a while. though i was having stability issues with this board until i set it to the 185 divider or 9:10 or whatever. now its screaming fast and stable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK so I lie, here is where I leave it for the night http://valid.canardpc.com/2776011 DDR 540 and a 900 MHz OC with a HT of 1500!!! loving this board. I hope if survives P95 overnight!


That ram will take up to 2.85v without issue.








You should be able to get 300 or so out of it.


----------



## TB13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Ask and ye shall receive! http://valid.canardpc.com/2775997 ~ ddr533 at 2.7V Its lovin this divider! I've been running at this Voltage for quite a while. though i was having stability issues with this board until i set it to the 185 divider or 9:10 or whatever. now its screaming fast and stable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK so I lie, here is where I leave it for the night http://valid.canardpc.com/2776011 DDR 540 and a 900 MHz OC with a HT of 1500!!! loving this board. I hope if survives P95 overnight!


That is some nice ram. My Asus board sucks when I comes to OCing ram, it refuses to boot no matter how much voltage I feed the ram.

On another note, with my ram at DDR500 and some tight timings and my CPU still chilling at 2.8GHz I managed 11k with my 480 in the system ( I need to get a 280 or something more time correct). Validation I really love my MSI board, it clocks so much better than my Gigabyte or ASUS boards. I am going to do a run in a bit with my max CPU, I am so glad I bought this Opteron.



*Edit*: 3.0GHz, 12k



*Edit*: 3.1GHz, 12.5k


----------



## Mr.Scott

Nice chip you have there.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TB13*
> 
> That is some nice ram. My Asus board sucks when I comes to OCing ram, it refuses to boot no matter how much voltage I feed the ram.
> 
> On another note, with my ram at DDR500 and some tight timings and my CPU still chilling at 2.8GHz I managed 11k with my 480 in the system ( I need to get a 280 or something more time correct). Validation I really love my MSI board, it clocks so much better than my Gigabyte or ASUS boards. I am going to do a run in a bit with my max CPU, I am so glad I bought this Opteron.
> 
> *Edit*: 3.1GHz, 12.5k


Great job! Nice system. Get a gtx 260 or 280 and watch it plummet, lol


----------



## toughacton

Well my 1950pros aren't playing nice together. I can't get them both to show up in catalyst, though it does let me crossfire them. But when i run 3dmark i just get crazy wavy distortion. Am i missing a setting or need a certain driver set? I made sure to start with the newest non legacy driver. 9.3 i think. The cards are a sapphire 512mb x1950pro and i think its a diamond or maybe a gecube 512mb x1950pro. I have noticed that the sapphire card is clocked slightly higher than the other. like 580/700 and the other is 575/680. Would that cause problems?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Well my 1950pros aren't playing nice together. I can't get them both to show up in catalyst, though it does let me crossfire them. But when i run 3dmark i just get crazy wavy distortion. Am i missing a setting or need a certain driver set? I made sure to start with the newest non legacy driver. 9.3 i think. The cards are a sapphire 512mb x1950pro and i think its a diamond or maybe a gecube 512mb x1950pro. I have noticed that the sapphire card is clocked slightly higher than the other. like 580/700 and the other is 575/680. Would that cause problems?


Is one of those two cards a Crossfire master card? If not, that's your problem. You need an X1950XTX Master, and then an X1950XT. I believe with the 1950PRO's, you still required the X1950XTX Master card, plus a PRO as slave.

Crossfire was an entirely different beast back in those days. It wasn't until the HD2xxx series that Crossfire became an easy option to use.


----------



## Mr.Scott

The X1950 Pro's don't use the master and slave setup.

OP, are you using 2 bridges?, you need to.
Link for help.

http://www.firingsquad.com/hardware/radeon_x1950_pro_crossfire/


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> The X1950 Pro's don't use the master and slave setup.
> 
> OP, are you using 2 bridges?, you need to.
> Link for help.
> 
> http://www.firingsquad.com/hardware/radeon_x1950_pro_crossfire/


Nice link thanks!
Unfortunately i did already have 2 bridges on (bought them new) I went with the pros because I didn't want to deal with the whole master slave card thing or the silly external dongle. Seems like no matter which slot i put the cards into i always selects the slower card as the master. Its the only one that show up in catalyst, but when i pull it out the sapphire card shows up and runs just fine by itself. I'm kinda stumped really. might just be that the sapphire card is just different enough that it won't work. Oh well, looks like ill just have to keep an eye out for a matching card and see if i can get it to work that way







good thing is that since these are dx9 cards they tend not to be in as much demand and i may get lucky and score one cheap.

Oh and hi pio! If you are still able to change the first post would you mind updating my clock speed with this one? Its a different board and chip, but its a nicer clock. http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2770041


----------



## Comp1demon

Getting ready to pull my hair out. My arcade machine has been down for almost TWO months and the WIFE is Screaming at me to get it back together so it don't look our loft is a mess.

I just got a 650 Watt Thermatake Powersupply. This thing is supposed to be able to power The latest Generation Crossfire and SLI cards.
This should be more than sufficient for a 939 machine with 5 Harddrives and a Radeon X1950XTX card.
I have the 3 sata drives on one Dedicated SATA power cable from the power supply.
I have the other 2 on it's own dedicated cable. That has 3 connectors too.
The Card is on the dedicated PCI-E marked cable.
Mother Board is the usual 2 connectors. 20 pin + 4 Pin by the processor.

3d Mark is still locking up.

Help???

Oh and I got my first BSOD when 3d mark crashed.

Found this thread and am following the instructions.
http://www.ngohq.com/graphic-cards/11589-ati-bsod-fixed-finally-it-will-help-all-of-you-ati3duag-dll-squeal-of-death-et.html

I assume using system restore back to the day I installed XP is just as good as doing a fresh install?

Ready to throw this PC out the window.

3d mark keeps locking up in different places.

Return to proxycon - locks up in the same spot or completes.
Forrest always completes
CPU test 1 Always completes
CPU test two - locked up for first time ever. I swapped out the opty 180 and put a new one in I had from another machine, passed it 30 times in a row.
Canyon flight. Never makes it past this locks up in the same Two spots.
Today got some weird table error and it just RTD (return to desktop).
Ran it on it's own and crashed in same place same table error (DX error)
Tried running deep freeze on it's own after that and it RTD 10 seconds into the bench.

No matter what other card I put in this machine the entire 3dmark06 completes every time.

But when i put this 1950XTX in another 939 machine it completes the 3dmark06?

Starting to wonder ***???

Also did a system restore back to the day I installed XP and it didn't even have drivers when I rebooted.
SO instead of reinstalling the entire OS, the restore seemed to work fine.

Like the thread I posted above I followed the guys recommendations and still don't work.
While it is not locking up where I need to press the reset button It now RTD crashes.

What am I going to do?


----------



## StormX2

My Father won't budge, been trying to get my opty 165 rig back but no go still.

Instead hes been trying to give me his dead PC which had a Q6600 or Q8*00 i forgot which one, hes not sure if the processor works but still hasn't given it to me =/

I really wanted to play with my old rig again, I was planning on taking the 9800 GT SLi form my wifes rig and testing it on 939 ;p

and my BIG plan was to test with with the GTX 295 that I won from Freebie, but.. Never received it so that's a bust anyway.

I just wanted to see my opty rig at the best it could realistically be









@Comp1 Hows the temps look on your chipset?

939 boards you had to be a bit careful about airflow to make sure the South Bridge stays cool


----------



## Comp1demon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> My Father won't budge, been trying to get my opty 165 rig back but no go still.
> 
> Instead hes been trying to give me his dead PC which had a Q6600 or Q8*00 i forgot which one, hes not sure if the processor works but still hasn't given it to me =/
> 
> I really wanted to play with my old rig again, I was planning on taking the 9800 GT SLi form my wifes rig and testing it on 939 ;p
> 
> and my BIG plan was to test with with the GTX 295 that I won from Freebie, but.. Never received it so that's a bust anyway.
> 
> I just wanted to see my opty rig at the best it could realistically be
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Comp1 Hows the temps look on your chipset?
> 
> 939 boards you had to be a bit careful about airflow to make sure the South Bridge stays cool


Temps are fine between 32 and 44C on CPU

SB fan works perfectly. The Vid card is sitting over it but it is only covering | | That much of it - I would say 1/6 of the center of the fan and bezel but the flow looks fine and the temps are under 40C on the SB.

I have a new problem or question so to speak.

I need this PC to output on my Component adapter. The 1950XTX card has it's own component adapter and it seems to work.

I installed the CCC Catalysis control center since windows xp setting were not offing me the option.

I want to out put 480i (640x480) through the component adapter to the arcade monitor.
But I want to use the DVI out to a monitor and I want to MIRROR not extend the desktop.
I noticed I cannot use the component at 640x480 and the monitor at 1280x1024 it will only allow the same resolution to both.
is there a way to get two different resolutions using mirroring?
If I added another Video card to the PCIE 2 slot and don;t use it in SLI mode - just a second video card. Could I use that second card to output to the monitor at full resolution and then let the Main PCIE video card outputting to the arcade monitor through the component outputs?
Maybe I am asking too much here but I know there has to be a way to do it.
Any advice would be very helpful.

AS for the video card freezing issue. I popped the 260GTX back in there and it runs 3dmark perfectly to the end.
I am going to give up on the 1950XTX and probably just return it or sell it.
I am trying to buy a 9800 GTX+ card for under $40 bux and use that since that seems to be the fasted card out there for a 939 board that still has component output.
All the 2XX series cards like my 260GTX don't have component output and it don't recognize my DVI to component adapter.
I am convince the 1950XTX is a bad card.


----------



## StormX2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Comp1demon*
> 
> Temps are fine between 32 and 44C on CPU
> 
> SB fan works perfectly. The Vid card is sitting over it but it is only covering | | That much of it - I would say 1/6 of the center of the fan and bezel but the flow looks fine and the temps are under 40C on the SB.
> 
> I have a new problem or question so to speak.
> 
> I need this PC to output on my Component adapter. The 1950XTX card has it's own component adapter and it seems to work.
> 
> I installed the CCC Catalysis control center since windows xp setting were not offing me the option.
> 
> I want to out put 480i (640x480) through the component adapter to the arcade monitor.
> But I want to use the DVI out to a monitor and I want to MIRROR not extend the desktop.
> *I noticed I cannot use the component at 640x480 and the monitor at 1280x1024 it will only allow the same resolution to both.
> is there a way to get two different resolutions using mirroring?*
> If I added another Video card to the PCIE 2 slot and don;t use it in SLI mode - just a second video card. Could I use that second card to output to the monitor at full resolution and then let the Main PCIE video card outputting to the arcade monitor through the component outputs?
> Maybe I am asking too much here but I know there has to be a way to do it.
> Any advice would be very helpful.
> 
> AS for the video card freezing issue. I popped the 260GTX back in there and it runs 3dmark perfectly to the end.
> I am going to give up on the 1950XTX and probably just return it or sell it.
> I am trying to buy a 9800 GTX+ card for under $40 bux and use that since that seems to be the fasted card out there for a 939 board that still has component output.
> All the 2XX series cards like my 260GTX don't have component output and it don't recognize my DVI to component adapter.
> I am convince the 1950XTX is a bad card.


pretty sure the pro9gram called UltraMon lets you do that


----------



## Comp1demon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> pretty sure the pro9gram called UltraMon lets you do that


Thanks!!

Will try it!


----------



## toughacton

Hey guys, just figured I'd let you know I found a pretty good heatsink. Its this one http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835150122 It uses the normal mounting hardware so you don't have to mess with pulling out the board to add new mounting hardware. Its light enough that it doesn't feel like its going to fall over, yet still big enough to provide some awesome cooling. I added another 90+cfm fan for push pull and I'm getting 40C max load temps at 2.5GHz on my 4200x2 (though I am undervolted at 1.26) Still I hope to push this and see if I can't get some better clocks now that my cooling is better







I'll keep you guys posted on how it does when i start getting up there in clocks and volts. Overall though I'm impressed for a non screwdown cooler.

My only issue with this thing is that the mounting clips are non adjustable. So on my asus board the thing points to the top of the case and dumps hot air into my PSU







instead of the rear vent (works perfect on the DFI though). If you have a top vent fan this wouldn't be a problem. My poor old case though only has a front, back and side fan. Like any big cooler, this is tall enough to hit side panel fans depending on the positioning as well as covering a RAM slot or two. ( I can get at mine, but they are covered and I wouldn't want to take RAM out of or put into the first slot on a regular basis).

Now that I'm cooler its time to break some air cooled speed records!


----------



## StormX2

would be nice to get better cooling on my old rig, I never did install that damn BT


----------



## frogger4

That's a nice find, I'll keep that one in mind!


----------



## danilon62

Is there anyway, or has someone Oced a Sempron 3200+?


----------



## Kryton

Do you mean a Sempron 3200+ Palermo chip?
I have one of those and yes, I've ran it up a few times before.











What exactly do you need to know?


----------



## RyanMicah

I think you can find similar but better heatsinks than that Masscool one for less cost. Also, that quad core system would leave the old dual core in the dust for most new and upcoming games which can utilize more than one thread. You should let your dad keep the old 939 system. I understand this is a 939 enthusiast thread but I'm all about a system's overall performance.







As it is, I still have two amazing 939 systems I would love to part with.


----------



## danilon62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> Do you mean a Sempron 3200+ Palermo chip?
> I have one of those and yes, I've ran it up a few times before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What exactly do you need to know?


Yep, palermo, and 90nm

But the problem is that in my BIOS ocing options are locked (AsusTEK M2V-TVM)



Is there anyway to unlock it or a custom BIOS?

The computer isn´t a brand one, It was my first PC, and the first I build myselft too


----------



## BigpoppaFrary

the board looks like an OEM pull from some sort of Dell or Compaq. That being said your best bet is to try some sort of Software based OC'ing program. I don't think you will want to bother with swapping out BIOS chips just for 500 mhz bumb on your sempy.


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyanMicah*
> 
> I think you can find similar but better heatsinks than that Masscool one for less cost. Also, that quad core system would leave the old dual core in the dust for most new and upcoming games which can utilize more than one thread. You should let your dad keep the old 939 system. I understand this is a 939 enthusiast thread but I'm all about a system's overall performance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As it is, I still have two amazing 939 systems I would love to part with.


Yeah i know there are some nicer coolers out there that cost less money, but you have to do some serious mods to get them to fit on an old 939 board. any hyper 212 would probably outperform this, but they come with the 4 screw mounting hardware and I am not going to driil new holes in the motherboard or fabricate my own retention plate just to get one to work. The draw of that masscool is the fact you can just use the normal bracket. I've been testing it on my dfi and at 3 GHz and 1.41V I run at maybe 50C max under load (and more like 45 average). So for me its doing really well. I did add a topmotor 120 fan though for push/pull and its got crazy good airflow. At any rate its really good compared to any other clip on AMD out there right now. I'm not even sure there are any other clip in 120mm sinks. if so there arent many.
I know it beats my hyper101 that has push/pull fans on it by 10C. My idle is room temp now, even at 3Ghz







I suppose if you can find an old TRUE or BT around they might be able to do better, but people tend to hang on to these good old coolers. I know i would if i had gotten into OCing back then.

"Yep, palermo, and 90nm

But the problem is that in my BIOS ocing options are locked (AsusTEK M2V-TVM)" Ugg thats one of those VIA chipsets. They don't have a locked PCI bus so any OC you try will effect everything on the PCI. GPUS ect. about the most you would be able to get stably would be 210 or so before you start running into issues.


----------



## blooder11181

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danilon62*
> 
> Yep, palermo, and 90nm
> 
> But the problem is that in my BIOS ocing options are locked (AsusTEK M2V-TVM)
> 
> 
> 
> Is there anyway to unlock it or a custom BIOS?
> 
> The computer isn´t a brand one, It was my first PC, and the first I build myselft too


its via chipset so oc will be low or nothing


----------



## StormX2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyanMicah*
> 
> I think you can find similar but better heatsinks than that Masscool one for less cost. Also, that quad core system would leave the old dual core in the dust for most new and upcoming games which can utilize more than one thread. You should let your dad keep the old 939 system. I understand this is a 939 enthusiast thread but I'm all about a system's overall performance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As it is, I still have two amazing 939 systems I would love to part with.


well if he gave me the 939 rig back id use it just to mess with, not really to game with. Maybe an older but a goodie, type game but Meh.

I wouldnt be getting rid of either of my current PC"s, my i7 or my wifes q9300









But all I really want to do, is Max my 939 PC so badly ;p


----------



## SwishaMane

VIA chipset, ouch. Try a prog called SetFSB?


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Yeah i know there are some nicer coolers out there that cost less money, but you have to do some serious mods to get them to fit on an old 939 board. any hyper 212 would probably outperform this, but they come with the 4 screw mounting hardware and I am not going to driil new holes in the motherboard or fabricate my own retention plate just to get one to work.


If you think 2 screws in the stock backplate is 'serious mods', then OK. Retention bar is a door hinge repair plate from Lowe's. No modifications at all. Total cost.....about a buck.
http://www.overclock.net/t/293448/the-socket-939-appreciation-club-and-knowledgebase-official/25500_100#post_18809069


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> VIA chipset, ouch. Try a prog called SetFSB?


Won't matter. No PCI lock, divider control, or voltage control on that board.


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> If you think 2 screws in the stock backplate is 'serious mods', then OK. Retention bar is a door hinge repair plate from Lowe's. No modifications at all. Total cost.....about a buck.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/293448/the-socket-939-appreciation-club-and-knowledgebase-official/25500_100#post_18809069


You know, I totally forgot about that. I mainly didn't see how it was going to work without it on the board, but I get it now. What I was referring to is a mod i've seen that involves being able to drill the necessary holes to line up with the 4 screw bracket hardware that is shipped with the 212. I think it only works on certain boards though, as the new holes would be too close or go through traces. at any rate I don't feel ripped off or anything, even though you can get a 212 cheaper. I just like being able to blame a company if the heatsink falls off and crushes stuff instead of myself for screwing up a mod (though that one does look pretty simple now that I finally am visualizing it in my head right). Cheers to your good mod though.


----------



## RyanMicah

I just OC'd the system I sold a friend. It's an X2 3600+ (2.0ghz default) to 2.41ghz+ on an Asus A8N-VM CSM. My Corsair XMS C2 ram is @ 200mhz with the rated timings of 2.5-3-3-6. (I could probably go higher by loosening the timings but I'm good with it due to no bump in voltage allowed). Raised the FSB to 240 (241 actual). HT is at 964. Your board may have similar options, I don't know much about Via chipsets.

After a little more digging earlier today I found out that my A8N-VM CSM board has issues with soft-boots, which means I can't hit reset or restart from Windows when it goes over 210mhz on the FSB. It makes it tricky to OC because you at first I thought the system was unstable. However if I shut it down or flip the power switch or hold down the power button it boots back up just fine. I ran Prime95 a few hours, awhile anyway and it checks out. Then I tried the Sims 3 for awhile, which my friend's daughters play. The temps are good and everything is within its rated spec and the game didn't crash. However this game loads a ton of textures and I'm not sure the processor is up to the task. Any advice is welcome. It seems the game loads a ton of textures and even though there's an old Raptor X drive on the system a SSD may help. Load times aside this system really needs smoother in game play. The textures it loads are nuts. Oh, I should mention the system is using an HD 4830 @ stock. I'm trying to keep the system cool and this card at default is more than enough for the older games on it. If anything the CPU is weak.

Apparently there are other motherboards with this same bios soft-boot issue. I guess no real enthusiast ever bought this board and the guys who work for Asus take better boards home from the factory, so certain boards never really got the attention they needed to be perfect perhaps. Anyway, I'm not a super-regular here but I'm going to see if there's an Asus thread with a rep here and see if there's a beta bios that was never posted on the site. I already emailed them but this may solicit a quicker and more personable response. Wish me luck!


----------



## frogger4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> You won't make 3 seconds up with the ram.
> 
> ...













I got under 30 seconds, and that's with a lower CPU overclock! I am very satisfied with this Corsair XMS ram. They won't take more than 3.05V, but they seem to have a lot of flexibility both in speed and timings.


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyanMicah*
> 
> I just OC'd the system I sold a friend. It's an X2 3600+ (2.0ghz default) to 2.41ghz+ on an Asus A8N-VM CSM. My Corsair XMS C2 ram is @ 200mhz with the rated timings of 2.5-3-3-6. (I could probably go higher by loosening the timings but I'm good with it due to no bump in voltage allowed). Raised the FSB to 240 (241 actual). HT is at 964. Your board may have similar options, I don't know much about Via chipsets.
> 
> After a little more digging earlier today I found out that my A8N-VM CSM board has issues with soft-boots, which means I can't hit reset or restart from Windows when it goes over 210mhz on the FSB. It makes it tricky to OC because you at first I thought the system was unstable. However if I shut it down or flip the power switch or hold down the power button it boots back up just fine. I ran Prime95 a few hours, awhile anyway and it checks out. Then I tried the Sims 3 for awhile, which my friend's daughters play. The temps are good and everything is within its rated spec and the game didn't crash. However this game loads a ton of textures and I'm not sure the processor is up to the task. Any advice is welcome. It seems the game loads a ton of textures and even though there's an old Raptor X drive on the system a SSD may help. Load times aside this system really needs smoother in game play. The textures it loads are nuts. Oh, I should mention the system is using an HD 4830 @ stock. I'm trying to keep the system cool and this card at default is more than enough for the older games on it. If anything the CPU is weak.
> 
> Apparently there are other motherboards with this same bios soft-boot issue. I guess no real enthusiast ever bought this board and the guys who work for Asus take better boards home from the factory, so certain boards never really got the attention they needed to be perfect perhaps. Anyway, I'm not a super-regular here but I'm going to see if there's an Asus thread with a rep here and see if there's a beta bios that was never posted on the site. I already emailed them but this may solicit a quicker and more personable response. Wish me luck!


I had that same exact board. I also gave mine to my brother







I don't remember having any reboot issues with it other than when I had a PSU dying on me. I assume that you have updated to the most recent bios that asus had. I know there is a limit of 240 in the BIOS. I never tried OC from windows. I'm not sure if it would work or not. As far as the performance, the CPU really is to blame most likely. That x2 3600 has less cache than any other x2 out there. Its almost like a dual core sempron...
Manchester (90 nm SOI)
CPU-Stepping: E4
L1-Cache: 64 + 64 KB (Data + Instructions), per core
L2-Cache: 256, 512 KB fullspeed, per core
MMX, Extended 3DNow!, SSE, SSE2, SSE3, AMD64, Cool'n'Quiet, NX Bit
Socket 939, HyperTransport (1000 MHz, HT1000)
VCore: 1.35 V - 1.4 V
Power Consumption (TDP): 89 Watt
First Release: 1 August 2005
Clockrate: 2000 - 2400 MHz
256 KB L2-Cache:
3600+: 2000 MHz
512 KB L2-Cache:
3800+: 2000 MHz
4200+: 2200 MHz
4600+: 2400 MHz (110 Watt TDP)

Any opteron or a 4400 or 4800 would do worlds better. though any dual core with more cache is preferable (the main reason you don't see too many 3600s out there i think)


----------



## StormX2

too bad I dont have any good DDR memory to play with the the 3800x2 I found


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frogger4*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got under 30 seconds, and that's with a lower CPU overclock! I am very satisfied with this Corsair XMS ram. They won't take more than 3.05V, but they seem to have a lot of flexibility both in speed and timings.


Excellent!








My crow was good.


----------



## RyanMicah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> too bad I dont have any good DDR memory to play with the the 3800x2 I found


I have a few XMS DDR400 and DDR500.







But they are 512mb XMS sticks which OC faster anyway. If you want max OC these are probably your sticks. I haven't tested them yet other than memtest.


----------



## StormX2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyanMicah*
> 
> I have a few XMS DDR400 and DDR500.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But they are 512mb XMS sticks which OC faster anyway. If you want max OC these are probably your sticks. I haven't tested them yet other than memtest.


too broke to be buying any parts, besides I want my old rig


----------



## toughacton

I am getting some new chips to play with. Now I think I have enough, that if I fry one I'll have a good back up







Besides I've been on the lookout for a good deal on a 180 or better for a while and I essentially got it for the going rate and the other 3 for free. Of course since this is an ebay purchase there isnt any real guarantee that they will work well, but supposedly they have all tested as working. I'm really hoping for another 3 Ghz chip here. The 148 should get there I think and the two dual cores have a chance for sure. Lots of fun grinding OCs this weekend as long as they get shipped to me by then that is!

1 X AMD OPTERON
OSA180DAA6CD Dual-Core
2.4GHz/2MB
Step Code: LCB9E

1 X AMD OPTERON
OSA165DAA6CD Dual-Core
1.8GHz/2MB
Step Code: CCB1E

1 X AMD OPTERON
OSA148DAA5BN Single-Core
2.2GHz/1MB
Step Code: CAB2E

1 X SEMPRON
SDA3400DIO2BW Single-Core
2.0GHz/128KB
Step Code: LBBWE


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> I am getting some new chips to play with. Now I think I have enough, that if I fry one I'll have a good back up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides I've been on the lookout for a good deal on a 180 or better for a while and I essentially got it for the going rate and the other 3 for free. Of course since this is an ebay purchase there isnt any real guarantee that they will work well, but supposedly they have all tested as working. I'm really hoping for another 3 Ghz chip here. The 148 should get there I think and the two dual cores have a chance for sure. Lots of fun grinding OCs this weekend as long as they get shipped to me by then that is!
> 
> 1 X AMD OPTERON
> OSA180DAA6CD Dual-Core
> 2.4GHz/2MB
> Step Code: LCB9E
> 
> 1 X AMD OPTERON
> OSA165DAA6CD Dual-Core
> 1.8GHz/2MB
> Step Code: CCB1E
> 
> 1 X AMD OPTERON
> OSA148DAA5BN Single-Core
> 2.2GHz/1MB
> Step Code: CAB2E
> 
> 1 X SEMPRON
> SDA3400DIO2BW Single-Core
> 2.0GHz/128KB
> Step Code: LBBWE


The 180 and 148 should be 3.0+ chips, can't say that for the 165 or the Sempy but you never know. Some Sempy's can throw down hard and suprise you - Not familiar with the stepping on the 165 and it's definitely an older one.

I also have a 180 LCB9E that's gone above 3.3 on H2O before but this one also runs a little too warm to keep it up for long. You may have that problem too but most any Opty that goes over 3.3 is a win for sure regardless.
However my 175 is a better clocker than the 180, it doesn't mind going high with lots of voltage compared to the 180 and certainly runs cooler. For the 165 as long as your board can manage high bus speeds, you'll at least find out what it's capable of.

Good luck with the new toys.


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> The 180 and 148 should be 3.0+ chips, can't say that for the 165 or the Sempy but you never know. Some Sempy's can throw down hard and suprise you - Not familiar with the stepping on the 165 and it's definitely an older one.
> 
> I also have a 180 LCB9E that's gone above 3.3 on H2O before but this one also runs a little too warm to keep it up for long. You may have that problem too but most any Opty that goes over 3.3 is a win for sure regardless.
> However my 175 is a better clocker than the 180, it doesn't mind going high with lots of voltage compared to the 180 and certainly runs cooler. For the 165 as long as your board can manage high bus speeds, you'll at least find out what it's capable of.
> 
> Good luck with the new toys.


I'll probably be testing out the limits on the SLI-DR. The new a8R32-MVP deluxe is good, but quite a bit harder to OC (at least it seems like I have to manually make a lot of RAM adjustments like async latency and whatnot that I never needed to with the lanparty) Both boards will hit 300 bus speeds easy though. I haven't found either board max yet, but I've got a 165 that does 3GHz already on the SLI-DR, so I know I can get 334 at least.
I've been having issues with the SLI-DR not accepting lower cpu multis. I change it, but then I am bsod city, which makes no sense. The asus board changes just fine. It may just be the cpu not liking a nonstandard multi (the 4200 in this case) but somehow I don't think thats it. I never did check to see what BIOS version the SLI-DR has. Anyone know what the newest BIOS should be on it and where I might find it? MAybe the lower multis weren't active in the earlier BIOS or something...


----------



## Mr.Scott

Ultra D, SLI-D, and SLI-DR all use the same bios.








Pick one here.
http://classicplatforms.com/bios/page1.html?agree=0


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Ultra D, SLI-D, and SLI-DR all use the same bios.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pick one here.
> http://classicplatforms.com/bios/page1.html?agree=0


+1reps for you! Thanks and I might just join classicplatforms since im messing with mine so much these days. I'll look into updating that BIOS (assuming its not current) soon. Though right now I'm playing with my new crossfire setup! Got a matching 1950pro and got them running together on the A8R32-mvp late last night. Jumped from around 5000 3dmark06 to 8500







doubt I'll manage 10k, but if i find a decent program to OC the cards I might get there. CCC only lets me adjust by 10mhz... only program i was familiar with was atitool and it says it doesn't support the 1950pro...







Any suggestions?

Hmm seems like they made a newer version of atitool than i had. I might try it and see if it works. Does the ati tool tray work? man its been forever since I tried messing with videocard stuff. anymore I just buy a card that meets my needs and leave it at stock, but I kinda want to OC the whole system to its max, so that means getting something better than CCC


----------



## Comp1demon

anyone have a component out adapter for a 9800 GTX or 9800 GTX+?

I bought one on eBay and it didn't come with one.


----------



## CrazyMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Ultra D, SLI-D, and SLI-DR all use the same bios.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pick one here.
> http://classicplatforms.com/bios/page1.html?agree=0


Tks mate... Rep for u!


----------



## astrallite

939 is a beast. I still remember how buttery smooth it was with Bioshock


----------



## StormX2

nah that 165 looks like a good stepping though if I remember correctly

WHY cant I remember my old Opty 165's stepping =?

my 3200 was a wonderful KABQE, but what the hell was my opteron


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> nah that 165 looks like a good stepping though if I remember correctly
> 
> WHY cant I remember my old Opty 165's stepping =?
> 
> my 3200 was a wonderful KABQE, but what the hell was my opteron


According to your own rig in your sig, it was a CCBBE (the same as my current 165 that does 3Ghz)


----------



## StormX2

yah that does sound familiar


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Comp1demon*
> 
> anyone have a component out adapter for a 9800 GTX or 9800 GTX+?
> 
> I bought one on eBay and it didn't come with one.


I might, gimme a few to look.


----------



## Comp1demon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> I might, gimme a few to look.


Thanks!


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Comp1demon*
> 
> Thanks!


Ok, Ive got two different types. One is component only, and other has s-video in and out, a composite in. Let me know which you need based on pins. One is 9 pin, and other is 7 pin, they look like old PS/2 keyboard connectors.





The 7 pin has a couple bent pins, but easy fix. PM me if one works for you man.


----------



## Comp1demon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Ok, Ive got two different types. One is component only, and other has s-video in and out, a composite in. Let me know which you need based on pins. One is 9 pin, and other is 7 pin, they look like old PS/2 keyboard connectors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 7 pin has a couple bent pins, but easy fix. PM me if one works for you man.


Thanks I will go study the port and take a pic of it and then compare it to your photos to see if either will work and get back to you. It's the weekend so no rush really and I super appreciate you hunting those down, I am sure they were probably buried in a junk draw somewhere. Thanks again


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Comp1demon*
> 
> Thanks I will go study the port and take a pic of it and then compare it to your photos to see if either will work and get back to you. It's the weekend so no rush really and I super appreciate you hunting those down, I am sure they were probably buried in a junk draw somewhere. Thanks again


Nope, I got all my spare parts organized in boxes by contents. They were in my box labeled, 'CABLES', lol. Took me literally 1 minute to find them.


----------



## Comp1demon

Ready to pull my hair out on this PC.

I have been told that due to driver conflicts and such just do a fresh install...

SO I DID..

I did a memtest last night and left it on ALL NIGHT!! I got over 20 passes not a single memory error.
The opty 180 was working perfectly on another machine.
The power Supply is brand new.
The Video card is new too (benched it in my A8N-SLI and completed 10 passes of 3dmark06 with no issues.)
The only thing in this PC that is not new or changed is the Motherboard.

Installed a fresh XP install to a NEW (brand new) SSD Drive.
Took some doing but finally after 2 installs it took with no issues.

Installed all the drivers (latest from MFG websites)
NO windows update (just straight fresh install of WIN XP PRO WITH SP3)
Installed 3dmark06

Still locking up on CPU TESTS.

Any Ideas Guys???

When I had the ATI HD6700 I could run 3dmark all night long with no problems, crashes, or freezes.
I change the vid card to a 1950XTX and it wont pass 3dmark.
I pop in my 260 GTX and it locked up.
people were saying it was a driver conflict and no matter how many roll backs and uninstalls I do there could be a lingering problem
I finally do a fresh install and CPU test still locking up.
I doubt the CPU is bad. It's max temp is 37C Max system temp is 42C
939 Fan working fine, CPU fan fine, ALl system fans Fine., Video card fans fine.

I am not replacing the MOBO - if I have to get a new MOBO then I am going with like a intel Quad Core of something or something

HELP??? IDEAS???


----------



## RyanMicah

If anyone is interested:

I just hit 2.5ghz with my X2 3800+ on my Foxconn/Winfast nForce board. I couldn't seem to get it past 2.4 but I finally did it. Prime95 is running and seems stable so far after a few minutes. Never tops 60C the higher of the two cores in HW monitor (seems to sit around 58), and the other is 50C. I don't think I should go any higher based on the temps alone, it's fairly cool in the room right now with the sliding glass door open and a fan blowing. I had to up the volts and they're bouncing around an avg of 1.475ish in HW Monitor (the bios said 1.425 +40mv if I recall, I had to bump it a bit to get it stable because it crashed the first try @ these settings). I'm satisfied with it at these temps/speeds and I may try dropping the voltage a hair if its stable like this. I can tell this chip doesn't want to go very high and 2.6 would be a bit challenging if I could pull it off at all. I can tell it would likely take 1.5v and I just don't want to bother with it. I've spent enough time on this and the ram will take a bit to dial in. I haven't tried it yet but it's 4gigs of 3200C2 XMS so as long as 208 I should be able to run 2.5-3-3-6 2T.


----------



## RyanMicah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Comp1demon*
> 
> Ready to pull my hair out on this PC.
> 
> I have been told that due to driver conflicts and such just do a fresh install...
> 
> SO I DID..
> 
> I did a memtest last night and left it on ALL NIGHT!! I got over 20 passes not a single memory error.
> The opty 180 was working perfectly on another machine.
> The power Supply is brand new.
> The Video card is new too (benched it in my A8N-SLI and completed 10 passes of 3dmark06 with no issues.)
> The only thing in this PC that is not new or changed is the Motherboard.
> 
> Installed a fresh XP install to a NEW (brand new) SSD Drive.
> Took some doing but finally after 2 installs it took with no issues.
> 
> Installed all the drivers (latest from MFG websites)
> NO windows update (just straight fresh install of WIN XP PRO WITH SP3)
> Installed 3dmark06
> 
> Still locking up on CPU TESTS.
> 
> Any Ideas Guys???
> 
> When I had the ATI HD6700 I could run 3dmark all night long with no problems, crashes, or freezes.
> I change the vid card to a 1950XTX and it wont pass 3dmark.
> I pop in my 260 GTX and it locked up.
> people were saying it was a driver conflict and no matter how many roll backs and uninstalls I do there could be a lingering problem
> I finally do a fresh install and CPU test still locking up.
> I doubt the CPU is bad. It's max temp is 37C Max system temp is 42C
> 939 Fan working fine, CPU fan fine, ALl system fans Fine., Video card fans fine.
> 
> I am not replacing the MOBO - if I have to get a new MOBO then I am going with like a intel Quad Core of something or something
> 
> HELP??? IDEAS???


Motherboard capacitor bubbling check!

"NO windows update (just straight fresh install of WIN XP PRO WITH SP3"

I've read once on MSDN that its a good idea to install SP2 first but it shouldn't be necessary. That said, did you use a DL manager and burn it with a verification/check after to make sure it burned right? Do you have an actual installation CD or did you get a disc off the internet? There are some out there that are corrupt, or perhaps your download went awry. Always use a download manager for important files like Windows ISOs.

Your ram sounds fine, and your CPU should not need a reseat either.
If no beeps at startup or error messages then it could be a setting in your bios having to do with a myriad of things. Double check all settings. If you're unsure of a setting, Google it. You might try turning on spread spectrum options as this can stabilize a system if something like an ATM machine went in next door to you or the neighbor has a radio hobby.

Here is a memory tester for video cards, although I have only used it once. http://mikelab.kiev.ua/index.php?page=PROGRAMS/vmt

You might also purchase a PSU tester, or better a voltmeter and do some reading online about how to use it. Personally, I'm lazy so I would likely just splurge for Thermaltake's PSU tester (I think its probably one of the best out there, albeit not the cheapest).


----------



## Comp1demon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyanMicah*
> 
> Motherboard capacitor bubbling check!
> 
> "NO windows update (just straight fresh install of WIN XP PRO WITH SP3"
> 
> I've read once on MSDN that its a good idea to install SP2 first but it shouldn't be necessary. That said, did you use a DL manager and burn it with a verification/check after to make sure it burned right? Do you have an actual installation CD or did you get a disc off the internet? There are some out there that are corrupt, or perhaps your download went awry. Always use a download manager for important files like Windows ISOs.
> 
> Your ram sounds fine, and your CPU should not need a reseat either.
> If no beeps at startup or error messages then it could be a setting in your bios having to do with a myriad of things. Double check all settings. If you're unsure of a setting, Google it. You might try turning on spread spectrum options as this can stabilize a system if something like an ATM machine went in next door to you or the neighbor has a radio hobby.
> 
> Here is a memory tester for video cards, although I have only used it once. http://mikelab.kiev.ua/index.php?page=PROGRAMS/vmt
> 
> You might also purchase a PSU tester, or better a voltmeter and do some reading online about how to use it. Personally, I'm lazy so I would likely just splurge for Thermaltake's PSU tester (I think its probably one of the best out there, albeit not the cheapest).


Power Supply is brand new (just dropped $75 bux on it) the old one was 550W No name and it was recommended that it might be under-powering the video card. This is a 650W termaltake so I doubt Both Powersupplies are causing the issue.

The win XP pro disc is a Official SP3 disc from MS, retail release. SO it's not my windows disc.

I doubt the caps are bubbling, the MOBO has no more than 150 hours on it MAX over the years. If I took a pic of the MOBO you would think it just came out the box. But I will still check just in case time was not gentle with the board.. thanks for the tip. EDIT: (I TAKE THIS BACK - GREAT TIP) PICS COMING

I will also look into bios settings to mess with.

Thanks....

UPDATE!

I figured turn off the CPU test and stress test the new install and system by running 3dmark06 with all test (except CPU) for 10 times each. About 3 hours of benchmarking.

I don;t know what pass it locked up on but it locked up on deep freeze on one of the passes.

SO ift made it through 10 passes of Proxycon, firefly and canyon flight.

I think I am done with this PC... I think it is time to say goodbye to this 939 machine. I am going to take the whole thing apart (something I wanted to avoid) and I think I am just going to jump on a Q6600 Machine.

I don't need something Modern. The reason it this is for my arcade machine. And without dropping 500+ on a new monitor and then buying a new bezel I need to use a machine that can run a video card with Component Out at 480i. It is only to run MAME GAMES. But Mame runs some high end Arcade titles so I do want the best 3d capabilities I can get. SO I need to use either the 1950XTX or the 9800 GTX+ I just bought because all the cards after the 9X series or the 19XX series from ATI no longer support component out, so there is no need for a i7 machine or something like that running a 9800 GTX+.

I found a few Q6600 machines with 4GB ram and a decient MOBO for under $150.

I will still keep and use my A8N SLI - that machine runs great and I love it. It's the machine Igive my house guest to use and it is also a garage PC when we don't have guest so I will still be using my 939. I just checked eBay and the MOBO is selling for $100+ and I have the original box for it, so perhaps I can pay for a new machine with this old one.

I am at the point where I just spent too much money already. I could have had a Quad core intel or a X4 phenom machine already with the cash I spent over the last 2 months trying to get this PC running top notch again.

Power supply, A few Opty 180 processors, the SATA 3 card to get the SSD to boot. 2 Video cards (a brand new factory sealed 1950XTX for $80+,, A 260 GTX (has no component out - and didn't know that), the HD6770 (didn't work with the component adapter from ati then read in a old forum all cards after the 1950XTX no longer supported it.) and Now this 9800 GTX+. I easily dropped 300-400 in the last Two months here and there. I should have just built a new PC from the get go.

I will admit you all have been great to me and the death of this machine a few months back is why I discovered this thread and I love the conversation and ideas shared here and I still have a 939 machine so I am not leaving, but this machine has been very frustrating. My arcade machine has been down since early march. It is now MAY and my 5 yr old keeps asking when is it going to work again. Tank goodness he is liking the arcade stick and the XBOX 1 with emulator on it.. has all the games he wants to play on the arcade machine, but I want my machine back too. I want to classic game a bit. And I want to update all the software as well.

If anyone has any last minute ideas before I rip the machine to pieces let me know - will be most appreciated.

Thanks

EDIT CAP PICS - YOU WERE RIGHT.. Is this what is causing the lockups?










NEW CAPS HAVE BEEN ORDERED. Could only find them in China... Oh well.. $17 bux for them all shipped. I am determined to get this running perfect again.

I wonder if the caps led to the Ram failure to begin with. MEMTEST gave me a bad stick back when this all started. Wonder if it was the CAP that caused the ram to go bad? Cause memtest now shows 100% at 4.0GB every pass.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> If anyone is interested:
> 
> I just hit 2.5ghz with my X2 3800+ on my Foxconn/Winfast nForce board. I couldn't seem to get it past 2.4 but I finally did it. Prime95 is running and seems stable so far after a few minutes. Never tops 60C the higher of the two cores in HW monitor (seems to sit around 58), and the other is 50C. I don't think I should go any higher based on the temps alone, it's fairly cool in the room right now with the sliding glass door open and a fan blowing. I had to up the volts and they're bouncing around an avg of 1.475ish in HW Monitor (the bios said 1.425 +40mv if I recall, I had to bump it a bit to get it stable because it crashed the first try @ these settings). I'm satisfied with it at these temps/speeds and I may try dropping the voltage a hair if its stable like this. I can tell this chip doesn't want to go very high and 2.6 would be a bit challenging if I could pull it off at all. I can tell it would likely take 1.5v and I just don't want to bother with it. I've spent enough time on this and the ram will take a bit to dial in. I haven't tried it yet but it's 4gigs of 3200C2 XMS so as long as 208 I should be able to run 2.5-3-3-6 2T.


Chip can take much more volts. Temps suck.
Solution: De-lid it.


----------



## SwishaMane

Its them caps straight up man.


----------



## RyanMicah

CompDemon: If those aren't perfectly flat on top they are likely the culprit. If you see any leakage, then they most certainly are. That top photo looks the most concerning to me, and also the one of them by your RAM. That does look like leakage and I am sure it is what is causing you pain. Replace them all and your board will be anew again. Might want to get the gunk out of your coil resistors/solenoid/phase regulators as well. The little box things with the wrapped up wire inside it. They look like moisture and dust settled in to create a lint mat. Blow it out or use a toothpick to clean it a bit if you can.

Scott: More trouble than its worth. I have a Core i5 system and two X3 720 systems. I'm throwing a new Dell mobo in my parent's POS Dell as an upgrade. The mobo can support up to a quad core Q6700 but I don't think I'll be buying more than an dual core E6600 for it. They don't need it, and although the cost is only another $30ish I don't feel it's worth it. A nice 2.4ghz C2D should give them the bump they need from the Pentium 4 3.0ghz they have now, especially if I'm getting them Windows 7 or 8 and an SSD to replace their old slow drive.

I've got a bunch of systems I want to sell now, this 939 system happens to be one of them. It was fun tinkering but removing the CPU's heatsink is more than I care to do. Besides, I still have an Opty 175 and another possibly even better mobo and faster RAM sitting around to OC if I want to.







It is also socket 939.

I'm stable @ 2.5ghz, and I even bumped the PCI-E to 105mhz, I think it helps smooth frame rates just slightly. My 4GBs of ram is running at 2-3-3-6 2T, 208mhz. I was having issues with it powering up after a total shutdown even though Prime95 wasn't erroring, but an ever so slight bump in VCore seems to have fixed the issue. I'm getting a lot better at adjusting things so they work. This stuff is fun, challenging, and in some ways pure dumb luck.







I feel I COULD go to 2.7 but it would take hours and the next weeks are going to get hectic.


----------



## toughacton

Well the winner of the best new chip goes to the 165 http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2794822 Ive actually gotten the 165 stable at 2.9 at stock volts

The 180 would hit 3GHz but ran really hot. http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2793942
The 148 I couldn't even get to boot at 3. I could get close but not quite there. http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2794516
The sempy would boot, but then when I restarted it would never boot back up. I think it might just be the bios not recognizing that particular chip or something... that or I'm just missing something with the setup for the sempy. did they have different HT max? 800 instead of 1000?

I'm really happy with both the dual cores. The 180 is good enough to get 2.8 easy on my brothers board (which isnt great and only has a max fsb of 240) and the 165 is just flat out awesome. I get the feeling that if I had watercooling I'd get 3.3 pretty easy. It will do 2.8 stable at 1.28V Just an all around nice chip. So if any of you find a CCB1E 0606VPMW Its probably a good one


----------



## StormX2

nice, I never did enough tinkering to get my opty past 315 fsb, i had bad chipset temps and CPU stock cooler was at its max =(


----------



## Kryton

I've had my 165 above 3.2 before:
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=560101

Of course it's not exactly healthy anymore with a botched de-lidding I did after that. I did however de-lid a 3400+ Newcastle and my feak 4000+ San Diego sucessfully, each one getting some benefit from doing it, esp in operating temps.


----------



## Comp1demon

OK so replaced the Caps......

I got all new ones.

used my hot air machine to pull the old ones and then slide the new ones in.

First Pass of 3dmark... LOCKED THE PC.....

Going for second pass now...

Think I am done with this machine....


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Comp1demon*
> 
> OK so replaced the Caps......
> 
> I got all new ones.
> 
> used my hot air machine to pull the old ones and then slide the new ones in.
> 
> First Pass of 3dmark... LOCKED THE PC.....
> 
> Going for second pass now...
> 
> Think I am done with this machine....


Well thats a bummer. did you recheck the RAM again to make sure that its ok? Trying to figure out if a cap has a bad connection can be difficult, so hopefully that isn't it. they look nice and neat to me though. I guess the only thing left I can think of is that your PCIe slot might be going bad on you. Have you ever cleaned it out really well with anything? I've had luck getting a slot to start "seeing" cards again by cleaning out the slot with rubbing alcohol on a piece of filter paper. I'm trying to remember, but you were able to get this card to work in another board fine right?

Best of luck though and kudos for trying to keep the ol 939 alive!


----------



## Comp1demon

So did a totally Fresh install of windows on a EIDE HDD (Slow I know). Installed 3dmark06.

Had it do a 5 run pass (5 of each test) and it completed. 9446 3d mark.

Then I run it again and it locks on proxycon

Reboot,.

Run 5 pass test - Completes 9661

Run again it locks on cpu test.

Reboot

Run 10 pass test (have no clue where it died but it error-ed out.

Run 5 pass test completes.

Run 3 pass text LOCKS up (Deep Freeze).

Ready to throw in the towel.


----------



## RyanMicah

From what I can see you did a nice job with the caps.







Issues like this could very well be a chip on the board. Those caps were for sure bad though and IMO it was worth a shot. It does sound like it's being finicky. Are you sure you got every cap that was bad? It almost sounds like a cap problem still. I would suggest testing everything, including the CPU in another motherboard that you know is solid - with default settings.


----------



## Comp1demon

The Opty 180 has been tested on my ASUS A8n-SLI board with the same video card and 3dmark ran a 10 pass test with no issues. So I would be fairly confident that the chip and the Card are solid.

I did get all the bad caps. The rest of the caps are perfectly smooth and not even a single bump on the tops of them and the sides and bottom look just as good as new. I have extra caps just in case, but I am not going to pull every cap and replace it, too much work..


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Comp1demon*
> 
> The Opty 180 has been tested on my ASUS A8n-SLI board with the same video card and 3dmark ran a 10 pass test with no issues. So I would be fairly confident that the chip and the Card are solid.
> 
> I did get all the bad caps. The rest of the caps are perfectly smooth and not even a single bump on the tops of them and the sides and bottom look just as good as new. I have extra caps just in case, but I am not going to pull every cap and replace it, too much work..


Board has more problems. Caps were a side effect from the initial problem. FWIW, I've never seen an Ultra D with bad caps before......ever. Best guess is a cheap PSU grenaded and damaged the board before you got it.


----------



## RyanMicah

I suppose that if the caps went bad it could have damaged another component on the board. I would call it quits, and look for a new board or sell your 180.







I might be interested in it, for the right price.


----------



## Hey_Hi_Hello

Hello everybody. First of all, I'd like to tell why I do appreciate the socket 939. Maybe I digress off topic here, but everything started in summer of 2005. At that time I was just a kid who had a roughly one-year-old PC bought by my dad. That PC was my first one and was comprised of the Pentium 4 3.4GHz HT Northwood CPU, 1GB of RAM, 400GB HDD and the GeForce 6800GT VGA. I though my system was very cool until during a sleepover at my friend's house I noticed he had a PC hardware magazine. As I was skimming through, I stumbled upon two things: the new AMD Athlon 64 X2 CPUs lineup as well as the new GeForce 7800GTX VGA. Back then I knew my Pentium was roughly an equivalent to the AMD Athlon 64 3200+ (2GHz) or the 3500+ (2.2GHz) CPU, meanwhile the beastly X2 4800+ was the dual-core clocked at a whopping 2.4GHz! I remember I was really impressed by this CPU and so I was impressed by the new 7800GTX since it proved to score ~8000 points in 3DMARK05, which was well above ~5000 points I would score with my 6800GT. After I put the magazine aside I thought "Oh my, if I had these two components I'd have such a beastly PC!".
Back on topic, not too long ago, in the name of old times, I decided to finally pull the trigger and build the system I used to salivate over. Sooth to say, the only two missing components were a MB and a CPU. Finding a motherboard was no problem and I soon came into possession of the ASUS A8N-SLI Deluxe board. However, getting the X2 4800+ was a big problem. To my surprise, they are still really expensive, probably due to being rare. Fortunately, after some time of searching I was lucky enough to score one for as few as 30 dollars.

So the final specs are as follows:

AMD Athlon 64 X2 4800+ 2.4GHz Socket 939 (slightly undervolted)
ASUS A8N-SLI Deluxe motherboard
ASUS GeForce 7800GTX 256MB (430/1200)
2GB of Kingston HyperX PC3200 RAM
500GB WD HDD
350W PSU

And here are some pictures:




As you can tell from the pic, this CPU was produced in 25th week (late June) of 2005, which means it's one of the early X2 4800+s.





Everything up and running:







This system is rock-solid stable and definitely has its own charm, for me at least!


----------



## Comp1demon

I have an a8n-sli system running still.. I love it! Mine is on a Opty 180...


----------



## Pest

NO LONGER FOR SALE

Hey guys!

It's been a longtime since I've been on this thread. But I come with good news! I'm putting up my ASUS A8N32Sli-Deluxe board, X2 3800+ Toldedo and Mushkin Redline DDR500 2x1GB up for sale.

Not looking to make much as the tech is wicked old now, but I would like to have it go to a good home. PM if you are interested. Name your price(s).

Thanks!


----------



## Comp1demon

I would go to eBay you will get a good home and make a nice amount/


----------



## SwishaMane

Only took a month for a new post, lol!

Whats the verdict of SSDs on 939? I've got a spare 60GB GSkill Phoenix Pro sata II ssd I wanna try, and since my DFI Infinity board supports sata II, can I expect full speed? Can i expect it to be faster then the sata II WD Caviar Black 640GB I'm using in it already?


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Only took a month for a new post, lol!
> 
> Whats the verdict of SSDs on 939? I've got a spare 60GB GSkill Phoenix Pro sata II ssd I wanna try, and since my DFI Infinity board supports sata II, can I expect full speed? Can i expect it to be faster then the sata II WD Caviar Black 640GB I'm using in it already?


Couldn't hurt to try!


----------



## SwishaMane

So I got the SSD installed, and it installed and is updating Win7 perfectly. As for boot times so far, it seems on par with the WD 640GB Black, but i will be running crystal diskmark to compare. I dont have a screenshot, but from memory I should be able to compare this SSD on my main AM3 piledriver sata III machine with its scores on 939s sata II.

Should be about 200mb/s read, 100mb/s write.

EDIT: Ran crystalmark with SSD vs 640 Black... Got 169mb/s read, 100mb/s write on SSD. 118mb/s read and 114mb/s write on black. So SSD is reading faster by a small margin, but black is writing faster.

I TINK I'm gonna adopt my ssd / mech drive combo idea from my main into this 939, and run OS/drivers/non-critical software off SSD (win7, all drivers, security software, cpu-z, hardware monitor, afterburner, etc), and use mech drive as my main programs and backups disk. Games, setup files, etc...

Ive also got my old 120GB M4 sitting here. Might toss it in and see some scores for it too. Its got numerous re-allocated sectors and getting read errors, but about to be RMAd since garbage collect didnt fix it.)

Wow, my M4 just ruined the GSkill SSD... 268 mb/s read, 164 mb/s write...


----------



## eternalenergy311

SwishaMane,

Glad you are posting about this topic, i was just coming back to this forum hoping someone would have some advice for me. I have an ECS KN1 Sli Lite board running a 3800x2 oc'ed to around 2.7. I also am considering the option of upgarding the OS drive to SSD, although I am already running a 640GB WD black SATA, same as you. I cannot find any info that tells me if the BIOS or the motherboard support AHCI. I know i will be limited to SATA II no matter what I purchase, unless I buy a PCI-E controller card. I just dont know if its a good investment. Also, Wold you agree with the idea that a 64-90 GB SSD is about the right size for a typical windows 7 64 bit installation?


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*
> 
> SwishaMane,
> 
> Glad you are posting about this topic, i was just coming back to this forum hoping someone would have some advice for me. I have an ECS KN1 Sli Lite board running a 3800x2 oc'ed to around 2.7. I also am considering the option of upgarding the OS drive to SSD, although I am already running a 640GB WD black SATA, same as you. I cannot find any info that tells me if the BIOS or the motherboard support AHCI. I know i will be limited to SATA II no matter what I purchase, unless I buy a PCI-E controller card. I just dont know if its a good investment. Also, Wold you agree with the idea that a 64-90 GB SSD is about the right size for a typical windows 7 64 bit installation?


I agree on the size being OK, but personally I'm holding out for either a 128gb or 256gb so I can throw all of my commonly used apps on there as well as my steam library in the case of the 256GB variant.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*
> 
> SwishaMane,
> 
> Glad you are posting about this topic, i was just coming back to this forum hoping someone would have some advice for me. I have an ECS KN1 Sli Lite board running a 3800x2 oc'ed to around 2.7. I also am considering the option of upgarding the OS drive to SSD, although I am already running a 640GB WD black SATA, same as you. I cannot find any info that tells me if the BIOS or the motherboard support AHCI. I know i will be limited to SATA II no matter what I purchase, unless I buy a PCI-E controller card. I just dont know if its a good investment. Also, Wold you agree with the idea that a 64-90 GB SSD is about the right size for a typical windows 7 64 bit installation?


http://www.ecs.com.tw/ECSWebSite/Product/Product_Detail.aspx?DetailID=544&MenuID=24&LanID=0

Im certain mode is IDE default, as I think i recall hearing no 939 mobo supported AHCI. 64GB SSD is fine. Im only using my 120gb M4 because its getting old. And not much faster then the 640gb Black.

My 60GB Gskill Phoenix Pro is slower than the Black, so I cant use it. lol


----------



## SwishaMane

So I turned my s939 into a HTPC. Well, a machine to stream netflix to the TV. Internal pci-e wifi card, bluetooth kb/touch pad combo, working nicely. Should of did this sooner.


----------



## N2Gaming

sounds good been thinking of doing such lately w/an X2 of some sort. I Might do this w/a AM2 system so that I can get better energy effeciency w/CnQ unless some one can prove the a Opty 180 would be just as effecient as a Athlon X2 5400+ BE


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> http://www.ecs.com.tw/ECSWebSite/Product/Product_Detail.aspx?DetailID=544&MenuID=24&LanID=0
> 
> Im certain mode is IDE default, as I think i recall hearing no 939 mobo supported AHCI. 64GB SSD is fine. Im only using my 120gb M4 because its getting old. And not much faster then the 640gb Black.
> 
> My 60GB Gskill Phoenix Pro is slower than the Black, so I cant use it. lol


Thanks for the input on the IDE vs AHCI settings. I have ordered an OCZ vetex 2 that should be here Monday or Tuesday. I plan on doing a clean windows 7 install on it, then resetting up my plex server, ftp sever, web server, etc. My question is, will I still be able to enable TRIM support without running in AHCI mode. If not, could I change boot order to " boot addable cards" (award bios), and plug my ssd into my PCIE x1 based SATA controller, which is actually SATA III capable, after of course I have windows installed on the drive. I'm fearful of trying to install onto the SSD plugged into the card from the start. The control card is an old high point rocket 620, so slow as hell probably. Claims to support AHCI though, although some reviewers have stated they got better speeds plugged into a MB running at SATA II, while using a SATA III drive!! Anyone have any experience with this? Also, after I have windows installed again, should I put my page file back on the "c" drive. It would be faster, but all that constant writing on that SSD would have to reduce life expectancy of the drive right? Or maybe no paging file? Although my MB limits memory to 3.25 GB useable, even though I run the 64 bit OS and processor. This machine is primarily A media server now, and I love the socket 939 and all my components, so I hope this last upgrade shows me some performance.


----------



## SwishaMane

Put a handful of maybe useful computer stuff for sale in the marketplace, including some 939 goodies. Go check it out all.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1415665/s939-mobo-cpu-ram-combo-opty-180

http://www.overclock.net/t/1415673/azio-bluetooth-wireless-keyboard-mouse-creative-x-fi-notebook-60gb-phoenixpro-gskill-ssd-cisco-5-port-ethernet-router


----------



## toughacton

Hey guys, I know it seems everyone is selling off the 939 stuff, but I had a day off recently and I started messing with an Abit Fatal1ty board i have. its not the sli version but I first got this when i was trying to get into overclocking 939. I never got it to work until just now







here's a cpuz valid i got before my psu decided to die on me. (slow death no damage done) http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2869177. not too bad. I'm sure it would do better but i was tired and needed to sleep. I turned it off and next day no boot... bad psu blah Also this thing with all the red LEDs under it are sweet looking. If I ever get it going again I'll post some pics. what with all the upgrades for my family i now have 6 working 939 boards and 1 non working DFI. I think i have 12 CPUs.... yikes... i have a lot







I've taken the sli-dr out and put in the Asus A8R32 mvp for a crossfire 1950 setup







running great so far. (though honestly lack of dx 10 or 11 hurts) Running sims 2 and heroes of might and magic 5 great though.

I'm getting to the point where I have too many old boards laying around. I have 3 Asus boards, 2 with onboard graphics, that I can part with, as well as several single core and mabye even a dual core or 2 that are just plain extra. Maybe we can get some kind of contest going and I could offer a 939 related prize or 2. If there is still a thread monitor around PM me and I'll discuss it.







I would love to have some of this gear do some work instead of sit under my bed. More importantly I would love to see more folks get involved in having some fun with this old (yet fun overclocking) platform.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Hey guys, I know it seems everyone is selling off the 939 stuff, but I had a day off recently and I started messing with an Abit Fatal1ty board i have. its not the sli version but I first got this when i was trying to get into overclocking 939. I never got it to work until just now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here's a cpuz valid i got before my psu decided to die on me. (slow death no damage done) http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2869177. not too bad. I'm sure it would do better but i was tired and needed to sleep. I turned it off and next day no boot... bad psu blah Also this thing with all the red LEDs under it are sweet looking. If I ever get it going again I'll post some pics. what with all the upgrades for my family i now have 6 working 939 boards and 1 non working DFI. I think i have 12 CPUs.... yikes... i have a lot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've taken the sli-dr out and put in the Asus A8R32 mvp for a crossfire 1950 setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> running great so far. (though honestly lack of dx 10 or 11 hurts) Running sims 2 and heroes of might and magic 5 great though.
> 
> I'm getting to the point where I have too many old boards laying around. I have 3 Asus boards, 2 with onboard graphics, that I can part with, as well as several single core and mabye even a dual core or 2 that are just plain extra. Maybe we can get some kind of contest going and I could offer a 939 related prize or 2. If there is still a thread monitor around PM me and I'll discuss it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would love to have some of this gear do some work instead of sit under my bed. More importantly I would love to see more folks get involved in having some fun with this old (yet fun overclocking) platform.


Yes, I'd be down for a comp!
( Just don't make the mistake of it being based on Socket 754.....







)

I'd wait until cooler weather starts to creep in at least before setting up such a comp and it would give you time to plan something out.

Speaking of 939, I've been messing around with my Ultra D and my Opty 180 as of late and blew out the BIOS a few days ago - All I had to do though is rob the BIOS chip from the dead Ultra D and it's working again, need to reflash the original chip so it will work again too.


----------



## Mr.Scott

I'll play for sure.


----------



## toughacton

awesome







This is why I kinda wanted to throw it out there early to get some interest drummed up and make sure there was time to get organized before it cools down.

I figure we would do a minimum of 2 catagories air cooled and then anything goes. Maybe divide it up further for those wanting to seperate the single from dual cores. right now im just thinking top speed as the best, since % OC is gonna be won by the 165s all day







We could always do max FSB or something as well though.

I have 3 low end ASUS boards (2 with integrated Graphics) and at least that many CPUS i can put up as prizes. I also have an AGP card (really nice one) and maybe some RAM as well that I can put up since I certainly can't use it all.

Keep that interest coming guys. and if anyone has ideas as to what we should do, I'm all ears.


----------



## SwishaMane

Id go a round for sure. This would be a good excuse to see if my ES will boot in my new setup.









I would have already tried, but hassling with the waterblock is not fun.


----------



## Kryton

It could be done with a mix of various benchies such as maybe one for CPU speed, results in something like PI Fast, Super Pi or something and a GPU bench for good measure. This way you'd have a variety of benchies to run and test our skills. The exact layout I believe should be a mix of this or that but it's your comp so do it as you'd like.

Prizes for either winning or placing in each category could be one way to handle that part of it and maybe an overall winner too for a grand prize - Again, it's your show, set it up and run it like you'd want to.

I'm just throwing around some suggestions here.


----------



## nategr8ns

I vote against GPU benches personally. They don't really prove anything in this situation.

But I'm also not sure I'll have time to compete. So many things going on right now.


----------



## blooder11181

what do you guys think about this opty?
http://valadares.olx.pt/opteron-175-iid-438590353


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blooder11181*
> 
> what do you guys think about this opty?
> http://valadares.olx.pt/opteron-175-iid-438590353


There's only one way to find out!


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blooder11181*
> 
> what do you guys think about this opty?
> http://valadares.olx.pt/opteron-175-iid-438590353


Might be a decent one with the stepping shown but the LCBBE, LCB9E and LCBQE chips are really the ones to look for. I have to admit there is no guarantee even with those but your chances of getting a good one are better with chips of those steppings and dates, dates ranging from around 0633 right up to the end which is a date of 0721 or close to that.

That one being an older stepping (CCBWE) and date (0551) would probrably be good for about 3.0 to 3.1 max I'd figure. My LCB9E 0652 Opty 175 has gone well above 3.3, almost making it to 3.4 and probrably would with the right setup.


----------



## SwishaMane

Lemme get that 175 Kryton, i got the right setup for it.


----------



## toughacton

OK guys so im testing some stuff now. to make sure its in working order for prizes







I have a sempy 3400 that im testing for stability, unknown overclocking ability. a 4200 x 2 manny that can do 2.7 or so, a 3500 winchester that can do maybe 2.6 (didnt really push it) and a 3700 that will hit 2.8 stable and i booted at 2.9 (i didnt push too hard as i couldnt get 2.9 stable). Depending on my mood I may have a 165 I can part with







all 3 of mine hit 3 GHz. I also have a 175 thats not a great OCer I could part with. I also have a few 512 memory sets that I can part with and mabye a 1 gig set as well. I'm testing the sempy on a A8V board now with a 6800GT AGP card







the board, a cpu, maybe a gig of memory, and card will probably be one prize. So yeah I think after I make sure it all works that there will be plenty of prizes. Now to figure out a good way of setting it up and picking a date later in the year to do this so us air cooled folks can squeeze some more out of these chips








Still havent gotten that fatality board to work again. ITs just plain picky or somethings weird/wrong with it. So it may just end up prize material if someone is interested









I just realized I'm a smilely fiend. good grief.

EDIT now with pics of the stuff and OC results of the 3700 san diego


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Lemme get that 175 Kryton, i got the right setup for it.


No.
The precious is _mine_!


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> No.
> The precious is _mine_!


lol, this is how I feel about my ES

I wouldnt mind competing for a chance at a opty 165 or AGP card prize.


----------



## toughacton

Hey guys. I've been working on the competition stuff. I'll attach the word doc I've got so far for you guys to look over and please feel free to PM me with anything that is unclear or any suggestions for improving this.

OCN Socket 939 October Overclocking Competition.docx 19k .docx file


I'll make a competition thread a bit closer to the time of the comp, say 2-3 weeks prior. Also if the 1 month of October is too much time or there is something else going on here we can certainly change that. I've never done one of these before to any help on setting up the rules to be fair and explicit would be helpful.

On another note I got the Fatality running.







I almost gave up but decided to just populate all 4 RAM slots on a whim, and bam! it works now. http://valid.canardpc.com/2887221 Now if I only had any decent coolers left... or a case for that matter.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Hey guys. I've been working on the competition stuff. I'll attach the word doc I've got so far for you guys to look over and please feel free to PM me with anything that is unclear or any suggestions for improving this.
> 
> OCN Socket 939 October Overclocking Competition.docx 19k .docx file
> 
> 
> I'll make a competition thread a bit closer to the time of the comp, say 2-3 weeks prior. Also if the 1 month of October is too much time or there is something else going on here we can certainly change that. I've never done one of these before to any help on setting up the rules to be fair and explicit would be helpful.
> 
> On another note I got the Fatality running.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I almost gave up but decided to just populate all 4 RAM slots on a whim, and bam! it works now. http://valid.canardpc.com/2887221 Now if I only had any decent coolers left... or a case for that matter.


That's a pretty sweet looking board! Never actually seen one before. Also a very random reason for it to decide to work...

I'll go ahead and proof read that some time and get back to you







.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I've actually got one 939 rig again and 3 different chips for it. 3800, 3400, and a Toledo 3800x2. Problem is my board won't overclock and after hours of searching Google I can't find out why. Stupid gigabyte k8n pro sli.







If I could I would totally run in this competition, just like I have every other 939 comp lol.

Hopefully you guys get a decent turn out this year.


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> I've actually got one 939 rig again and 3 different chips for it. 3800, 3400, and a Toledo 3800x2. Problem is my board won't overclock and after hours of searching Google I can't find out why. Stupid gigabyte k8n pro sli.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I could I would totally run in this competition, just like I have every other 939 comp lol.
> 
> Hopefully you guys get a decent turn out this year.


Thats weird, just glancing at the manual it looks like it should have a lot of options. Is it just failing the overclock you put in or cant find the options you need? Basic stuff should be in the MIT section... I think they have that weird hit F1 or ctrl F1 to get additional menus?


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> lol, this is how I feel about my ES
> 
> I wouldnt mind competing for a chance at a opty 165 or AGP card prize.


Need to replace my semi-dead 165 here as well, it's wounded after a botched delidding but still works at least.









He's also showing some chips I haven't owned yet and would be fun to mess around with those or whatever.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Thats weird, just glancing at the manual it looks like it should have a lot of options. Is it just failing the overclock you put in or cant find the options you need? Basic stuff should be in the MIT section... _I think they have that weird hit F1 or ctrl F1 to get additional menus_?


Being a Gigabyte MB, that's probrably the case since my 754 Gigabyte is like that.


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> Need to replace my semi-dead 165 here as well, it's wounded after a botched delidding but still works at least.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He's also showing some chips I haven't owned yet and would be fun to mess around with those or whatever.


Oh yeah and I forgot to mention that my brother gave me his old 754 board that was broken. I've got a sempy 3000 that was in it, of unknown working condition. The ram worked, and the 6600 that was on it worked, but im pretty sure the asrock board is dead. It was one of those that you could put the 939 daughter board on, but it was pretty beat up looking (like missing components) So yeah i guess I can add that sempy to the prize pool too if anyone wants it, all pins on it look just fine.

Theres also a SLI-DR thats borked sitting here as well, but i haven't made my mind up about it yet as its a good source of parts for my working board. I've already swapped the fans so the non working board has a super loud buzz to it. I just get the 4 lights of non posting badness. All the caps and stuff look good, just wont post.









As for the contest, whats the most recent or best version to use. I think i'm still using super pi mod 1.5


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> I've actually got one 939 rig again and 3 different chips for it. 3800, 3400, and a Toledo 3800x2. Problem is my board won't overclock and after hours of searching Google I can't find out why. Stupid gigabyte k8n pro sli.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I could I would totally run in this competition, just like I have every other 939 comp lol.
> 
> Hopefully you guys get a decent turn out this year.
> 
> 
> 
> Thats weird, just glancing at the manual it looks like it should have a lot of options. Is it just failing the overclock you put in or cant find the options you need? Basic stuff should be in the MIT section... I think they have that weird hit F1 or ctrl F1 to get additional menus?
Click to expand...

The options are there in a hidden menu. Problem is that it won't even post past 205-210 or so fsb. I googled it and it's a very common problem with no solution that I can find with this board. Possibly could be no pci lock, I don't know.

Good board other than that lol. The guys in here know I know how to screw with 939







. I've had all the top boards at one point or another. My 165 LCBQE could pull 3.36ghz suicide and 3.2ghz stable.


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> The options are there in a hidden menu. Problem is that it won't even post past 205-210 or so fsb. I googled it and it's a very common problem with no solution that I can find with this board. Possibly could be no pci lock, I don't know.
> 
> Good board other than that lol. The guys in here know I know how to screw with 939
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I've had all the top boards at one point or another. My 165 LCBQE could pull 3.36ghz suicide and 3.2ghz stable.


I figured it was the board and not you.







Know you've been here a while and are quite good at this. Just know how weird new boards can be though, and learning to navigate a new bios. kinda sounds like a no pci lock though i would have thought that high end of a board would have had one. or at least the option to lock it.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> On another note I got the Fatality running. I almost gave up but decided to just populate all 4 RAM slots on a whim, and bam! it works now.


It's a typical Abit board with Uguru. Replace the battery. Anything less than 3v messes it up.
I've had a couple of those boards before. Nice looking board, not a stellar clocker.









Looking forward to the comp.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> The options are there in a hidden menu. Problem is that it won't even post past 205-210 or so fsb. I googled it and it's a very common problem with no solution that I can find with this board. Possibly could be no pci lock, I don't know.
> 
> Good board other than that lol. The guys in here know I know how to screw with 939
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


PCI lock works on that board. You need a better bios. I can help you.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> The options are there in a hidden menu. Problem is that it won't even post past 205-210 or so fsb. I googled it and it's a very common problem with no solution that I can find with this board. Possibly could be no pci lock, I don't know.
> 
> Good board other than that lol. The guys in here know I know how to screw with 939
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> PCI lock works on that board. You need a better bios. I can help you.
Click to expand...

How so? If I remember right those require a floppy drive to flash which I don't have. Not sure how I could fix it.


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> It's a typical Abit board with Uguru. Replace the battery. Anything less than 3v messes it up.
> I've had a couple of those boards before. Nice looking board, not a stellar clocker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking forward to the comp.


Awesome good to know. I did try a couple of batteries, but they were just all old ones borrowed from other boards. not a safe bet any of em made 3v As for not clocking well I've gotten a 165 to 318 htt stable so far, though im messing with the 4200 toledo at the moment and it obviously doesnt need that high of a htt adjustment. Its stable at 2.9 Though while using the old cooler from my single core its too hot to go any higher. All my heat pipes are on the full time rigs. I'll probably make submissions off this abit, just for fun to see what it can do, since I can't really win my own stuff







Does October work for you guys? Might not be freezing, but certainly better ambients.


----------



## Kryton

October is OK by me.









Yeah, you can throw in that 3000+ Sempy from the 754, I'll take it if no one else chimes in for it.


----------



## cssorkinman

Always up for a 939 contest , even if I don't provide much competition for you guys - it's always fun









3 chips,2 boards and 4 sets of decent DDR to play with.


----------



## Mitche01

Running 3700+ San Diego @ 2.31Ghz 24/7 for folding with a 8600GTS


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Always up for a 939 contest , even if I don't provide much competition for you guys - it's always fun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3 chips,2 boards and 4 sets of decent DDR to play with.


Whatever you have is good enough, just be there dude.


----------



## Aleslammer

I'm in for adding some voltage to a 939, sounds like fun, October is still warm for me, but considerably better than now. If you decide on a VGA bench might limit it to cards released in the same time frame as the 939s.


----------



## nategr8ns

I have a broken/perpetually baked 8800GTS 320 and a Sapphire 1900XT (or xtx? Something like that) that I can use. I've also got my original 939 graphics card hanging on the wall of my bedroom







, 7900 of some flavor.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aleslammer*
> 
> I'm in for adding some voltage to a 939, sounds like fun, October is still warm for me, but considerably better than now. If you decide on a VGA bench might limit it to cards released in the same time frame as the 939s.


Theres comes a point on 939 that no matter how new the gpu is, it just doesn't get much better then a certain amount, like 12k in something like 3dmark06 for instance. My gtx 260 barely beats my old 8800gtx, and my gtx 570 (before I sold it) did no better then the gtx 260. This is comparing Crysis 1 (a game with much replay value for me) too, not just benchmarks or 3dmark06. A GPU bench with a GPU no newer than 2010 sounds appropriate. To me anyways. Id love to go toe-to-toe in 3d benchmark against someone with a familiar card and setup to me.

I'm hoping the ES boots on my new board, but wont hesitate to push this cherry opty 185 that boots 3ghz on sotck volts... yeah... sup?


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Theres comes a point on 939 that no matter how new the gpu is, it just doesn't get much better then 12k in something like 3dmark06 for instance. My gtx 260 barely beats my old 8800gtx, and my gtx 570 (before I sold it) did no better then the gtx 260. A GPU bench with a GPU no newer than 2010 sounds appropriate. To me anyways. Id love to go toe-to-toe in 3d benchmark.


Tuff for me to beat those scores with my rig . And I ran into the same thing going from a 9800 GT to a 460 gtx, it reaches a point where the gpu doesn't seem to be able to put up bigger numbers without some more cpu power behind it. The funny thing to me is, the 460gtx shows 100% usage during 3dmark06- even with my single core FX-55 pushing it at about 3.1ghz
.
I don't think I have ever ran any DX11 3dbenchmarks with my 939's.
If anyone has tried 3dmark11 or firestrike with a 939 rig, I would be interested to see if it behaves the same way.


----------



## toughacton

Alright! Glad to see some interest in this comp! If enough people are interested we can certainly add a top 3dmark06 (or whatever) to the comp. Its still a work in progress. I'm still debating whether or not its even worth having 2 super pi categories since its so single threaded.
At any rate, I have crossfired 1950pros I can use, or a HD 4870 2gig that would be of appropriate age just to see what I can do.

I also just got my LCBQE opty 165 to 3.0GHZ on stock volts on the fata1ity board







well its set to 1.35V not sure what its actually at. My cable modem bit the dust so I'm waiting on a new one before I can validate and download all the monitoring apps. Heck I haven't even got a clue as to how hot I'm even running aside from 37C in BIOS. So when I was priming at 3GHZ I could have been roasting the poor thing







I doubt it though since I'm still on stock volts.


----------



## Aleslammer

Top scores at the Bot single card, water on the cpu, age correct x1900 XT @ 6.1 / 7900 GTO @ 6.8. Water cooled cpu, single card all entries, 12.7 for a 5850 & GTX 275. Over all highest 06 score of 14,243, single GTX 285 (Air) LN2 on the cpu. Spot on with cpu limiting statements. Two 7900 GTXs net the low to mid 12s

I was thinking my 3870 X2 was about right, knew the nVidia 7 series was correct, tells ya how well I kept up with the ATI side of things during this time.


----------



## SwishaMane

I think the contest should be multi tiered. Like, if theres 6 contestants, we could do top 3 (of one bench). Those top 3 could go toe-to-toe for top 2 (of another bench), then the top 2 go against each other for winner (in last bench). What the order of tests / bench's could be to make it fair down to last 2 IDK, but thats the MY idea.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> I think the contest should be multi tiered. Like, if theres 6 contestants, we could do top 3 (of one bench). Those top 3 could go toe-to-toe for top 2 (of another bench), then the top 2 go against each other for winner (in last bench). What the order of tests / bench's could be to make it fair down to last 2 IDK, but thats the MY idea.


Huh







- A weekly elimination comp, we haven't tried that one before and guaranteed to keep the competiton interesting.
If you wanna sandbag, you're out.

That could work IF we have enough folks in the comp. If there's only a few that join in, it would be kinda hard to pull off.


----------



## SwishaMane

It was just an idea. IDK what order the tests could go in to make it fair. Ill just compete and leave it up to those who have designs contests before.


----------



## eternalenergy311

I've still got an opty 146 I could destroy, so I guess I'm in. The 3800x2 has been abused enough. But still runs 2.73 stable all day and, with 4 gigs at DDR 460. Not sure it's real competitor though, cause it won't run prime stable any higher, even with only 2 gigs.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Id love to go toe-to-toe in 3d benchmark against someone with a familiar card and setup to me.


You know where to find me, and you know I'm always up for it.


----------



## SwishaMane

Oh ok, what do you want to do? 2.9ghz dual core, 2gb ddr500, gtx 260 at 700mhz core... Sup den foo?


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Oh ok, what do you want to do? 2.9ghz dual core, 2gb ddr500, gtx 260 at 700mhz core... Sup den foo?


My 260 is set up with a slim for LN2 right now. Not ready to strip it yet.








Different card? 8800's, 275, 460................? Whatcha got? Pick a card, any card. lol
Everything else is fine. Always up for a little friendly head to head.


----------



## cssorkinman

From the silly question section - how many amps will one of these chips (1x or 2x) pull while in the neighborhood of 1.7 volts @ 3ghz?

These rigs usually get the leftovers as far as power supplies around here, and I am wondering if that could be a bit of a handicap


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> My 260 is set up with a slim for LN2 right now. Not ready to strip it yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Different card? 8800's, 275, 460................? Whatcha got? Pick a card, any card. lol
> Everything else is fine. Always up for a little friendly head to head.


lol, the only gpu I got for the 939 is a gtx 260 C216 w/ arctic accelero. My gtx 580 is on water in my main, and thats it.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Very well. When I strip my 260 I'll get ahold of you.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> From the silly question section - how many amps will one of these chips (1x or 2x) pull while in the neighborhood of 1.7 volts @ 3ghz?
> 
> These rigs usually get the leftovers as far as power supplies around here, and I am wondering if that could be a bit of a handicap


What kind of chip are you running to even need 1.7v's to hit 3.0?
Most every 939 chip I've ever had could do it with much less voltage, if the chip could do it at all.









If you have one that's capable of about 500W's or more, you'll be OK provided the PSU can deliever the amps to the system where it's needed. Also depends on the GPU you'll be using, I normally have mine setup with a 650W or higher.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> What kind of chip are you running to even need 1.7v's to hit 3.0?
> Most every 939 chip I've ever had could do it with much less voltage, if the chip could do it at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you have one that's capable of about 500W's or more, you'll be OK provided the PSU can deliever the amps to the system where it's needed. Also depends on the GPU you'll be using, I normally have mine setup with a 650W or higher.


I have these :
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2234554
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2540594
http://hwbot.org/submission/2243485_cssorkinmanocn_memory_clock_ddr_sdram_305_mhz

I was curious because the next step on the boards I have is about 1.7 volts. If I'm only running 2d (ati 7100 le video card) benches sometimes I use the 430 watt thermaltakes I have laying around.

The manchester is in a rig that has a 750 watt etasis psu in it, but it has a 16.4 amp rail powering the cpu.
I have sent it into ocp with my X6's pretty easily.


----------



## toughacton

Here's a nice result so far







still light on the video card OC, but the memory and CPU are pretty solid. http://valid.canardpc.com/t2vrbw


----------



## Kryton

Corky, the FX should be OK and the Manny will probrably do OK too but no match for a good Opty or X2 Toledo as you probrably know already.
I'm gonna try running my LCBBE 4000+ San Diego in this one for the single core part, don't know exactly yet which dual core I'll use ATM but the 175 looks to be the "go-to" chip for now in certain benchies.

As for RAM speed, here's a run done just a few days ago: http://valid.canardpc.com/2891500
For RAM speed benchability, here's your sign with a 146 Opty: http://www.hwbot.org/submission/2415284_


----------



## SwishaMane

Well, my 939 stuff sold recently. Im down to just my good 939 setup (opty 185 in particular) and my ES. Oh, and an Opty 180 with a dead core. It hink its core 2. Yeah, it'll boot on a mobo with a BIOS flash old enough to only support single cores. If the BIOS reads it as a dual core, it freezes on POST. Anyone wanna mess around with THAT!? lol
















I booted it sucessfully as a single core on a DFI LANparty board with the very first BIOS flash there is. It was good performer too. Very _snappy_


----------



## Kryton

Personally I've never heard of a dual core 939 chip working with a dead core but I do believe you. The memory controller on my 165 is what got damaged when I tried to delid it, the chip itself still works but throws errors all over the place and is very sluggish overall. Overall it was a good chip that clocked well and I woudn't mind getting another 165 or maybe even fixing this one somehow if it's possible to do.


----------



## SwishaMane

I cant say the core is dead, because it WILL POST, but it'll never get past POST. Ive ALSO only tried that chip on two boards, both DFI LANParty's at the time, so who knows. All I DO know, is like i said, a mobo with a BIOS that only supports single core will boot and run it, and a BIOS that supports dual cores will freeze everytime at end of POST just before it loads Windows. Extremely weird.


----------



## Kryton

That is weird.
Maybe something in the chip like a resistor under the lid or something went out, I mean who knows?









I say that because I know one of the resistors/diodes on my 165 is damaged as stated and it still works, maybe not correctly but still does at least.


----------



## SwishaMane

Ive always contemplated de-lidding it. Its a good stepping too. CCB1E 0550


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Ive always contemplated de-lidding it. Its a good stepping too. CCB1E 0550


Would be too weird if by delidding it, you fix the problem.


----------



## SwishaMane

Well, i de-lidded the 180, but I hit a capacitor or whatever, and Im sure its dead. But whatever ya know? First time removing an IHS













I totally had a hard time getting it going with the blade by itself and my hand. Hurt like crazy. Found a utility knife, and that solved the problem. The caps are closer than I thought. Oh well, thought CPU was dead anyway, no loss.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Even if you hadn't hit the component it would be dead because you butchered the PCB.
Tip: no more de-lidding for you.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Even if you hadn't hit the component it would be dead because you butchered the PCB.
> Tip: no more de-lidding for you.


That was from handling the blade with my raw fingers. Got easier with whole knife, lol. Ive got a dead PHII 945 with a 100 bent pins and 20 missing ones Ill practice again on.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> That was from handling the blade with my raw fingers. Got easier with whole knife, lol. Ive got a dead PHII 945 with a 100 bent pins and 20 missing ones Ill practice again on.


No you won't. IHS is soldered on. Little different procedure.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> No you won't. IHS is soldered on. Little different procedure.


about how much did you gain in temp and speed by deliding the 965 Mr. Scott ?


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> No you won't. IHS is soldered on. Little different procedure.


Aha, ok.


----------



## Kryton

Last week I scored a freebie, namely a 3400+ Venice and from what I'm seeing compared to others like it, it's actually a good chip.
Only thing is like many Venice chips, it needs lots of voltage to get there.



I still have alot of work to do and getting ready for the upcoming fun.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> Last week I scored a freebie, namely a 3400+ Venice and from what I'm seeing compared to others like it, it's actually a good chip.
> Only thing is like many Venice chips, it needs lots of voltage to get there.
> 
> 
> 
> I still have alot of work to do and getting ready for the upcoming fun.


Nice. Did Venice come in any dual core flavors? Im sure they didnt. Mebbe the x2 3600 or 4200, 4600?


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Nice. Did Venice come in any dual core flavors? Im sure they didnt. Mebbe the x2 3600 or 4200, 4600?


Venice x 2 = Manchester

San Diego x 2 = Toledo


----------



## toughacton

Just so you guys know I've made the comp thread. Feel free to give me ideas, or if you have any cool stuff to make the thread look nicer, feel free to help a newb out







As far as a GPU/ 3D mark portion we can perhaps take a vote on whether to do one as well and how it should be done (I have little to no experience other than just running free 3dmark to see where i am)
Can't wait to do this and I hope we get some people excited about our beloved ol socket 939!









I suppose I ought to link to the comp page


----------



## cgull

hi guys

http://valid.canardpc.com/fhewuk

MB Model : GA-K8N Ultra-9

AMD Athlon 64 Processor 3700+


----------



## toughacton

Welcome! Bring that bad boy to the OC comp next month


----------



## cgull

Ta .. Getting an opteron 170 in the next few days , see how that goes..
Only got 1 x 939 board, accidentally bought wrong chip a few weeks ago, thought it was a 754 chip... So I had to try this socket.
Few months ago all I had was intel 775 and 1 x 754... Discovered ocau forum sales and now I've got 1366 , amd+2 ,am3, 1090t, be 940, and this 939 setup...so starting to have some oc fun.. Next on the agenda is some water cooling ..
On topic I'll def be in for oct comp... I'm down under so prizes might be 2 xpensive to post tho..


----------



## toughacton

Might be a bit too much... But there might be something I could do for a prize if you win something. Besides its just fun pushing this old gear







Here's what my opty 170 will do (on a bad air cooler) http://valid.canardpc.com/4q5thu I get the feeling with some more extreme volts I would get closer to 3.3 or so.
Maybe you'll get lucky and get one as good.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Here's what my opty 170 will do (on a bad air cooler) http://valid.canardpc.com/4q5thu I get the feeling with some more extreme volts I would get closer to 3.3 or so.


That's a pretty good chip you got there. Hang on to that one.


----------



## toughacton

Well worth the 20 bucks i dropped on it. The only prob it has is that it loads hot. Idle temps are fine and near ambients, but I hit 70C pretty easy even before I have to start adding volts. It does 2.8 stable on stock volts, and 2.95 stable on 1.425V that extra 50 for 3Ghz just jumps way up in volts and i can't keep it cool with the hyper 101 i have on there right now. I have better coolers but they are on other setups at the moment. Though if I ever saw a candidate for delidding its this chip. I think with temps down and some more volts this baby would fly.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Might be a bit too much... But there might be something I could do for a prize if you win something. Besides its just fun pushing this old gear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what my opty 170 will do (on a bad air cooler) http://valid.canardpc.com/4q5thu I get the feeling with some more extreme volts I would get closer to 3.3 or so.
> Maybe you'll get lucky and get one as good.


WOW that's a great clocker!









My 175 is being stubborn: I tried booting with my old windows install and it freezes every time it gets to the loading screen.

Going to try a fresh install and if that fails, just swap in one of my single cores. My other dual core is back east at my parents house







.


----------



## toughacton

Heres hoping its just a windows thing. I still haven't been able to figure out how to get a sata drive to work on my lanparty... I'm having to use an old IDE to run things. It could be the controller has gone bad, but I really don't think so. I can see the drive, format it. try to install windows, but it just won't boot off of it.

I may have fixed my opty 170 temps some. I had my rear exhaust backwards and it was pushing air right back at the hyper 101 that was trying to exhaust out the back. At least 5C difference now. so only 65 or 66 max load temps. Trying for that stable 3GHz since 2.95 really upsets my OCD nature.







I'll edit with whatever I manage. Though 1.475V seems to be good so far.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Heres hoping its just a windows thing. I still haven't been able to figure out how to get a sata drive to work on my lanparty... I'm having to use an old IDE to run things. It could be the controller has gone bad, but I really don't think so. I can see the drive, format it. try to install windows, but it just won't boot off of it.


SATA driver at F6 on install?
Correct setting for first boot device in bios?


----------



## toughacton

What do I need to do that though? Do i need to make a raid driver disc even though its not in a raid, just a single drive? I tried using the driver disc and that didn't work.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> What do I need to do that though? Do i need to make a raid driver disc even though its not in a raid, just a single drive? I tried using the driver disc and that didn't work.


Yes.
or you can try this one.

AHCI F6 XP drivers.zip 1074k .zip file

Bios has to be set to SATA raid for SSD.


----------



## pioneerisloud

My board is still stupidly stubborn. Got a good Toledo but the board just will not budge over 200 htt.


----------



## Kryton

Bummer Pio!









You've got to chase down a board that will work with it - You've just gotta..... Or you could let me have the Toledo.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> Bummer Pio!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You've got to chase down a board that will work with it - You've just gotta..... Or you could let me have the Toledo.


I'm honestly more interested in the 771 to 775 xeon mod that I found on here. Apparently 771 45nm quads work on mainstream 775 boards. I just happen to have a decent ish 965p board that's begging for a q9650 equivalent xeon for $40 lol. Would love a 4ghz rig again.

The 939 rig I have is probably just a screwy bios but I honestly can't bother to fix it when I need a main rig so much more.


----------



## N2Gaming

Agreed 939 is not main stream gaming sufficiant any more :/


----------



## nategr8ns

Wait, 965? Isn't that the pre-dual core 775 chipset?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*
> 
> Wait, 965? Isn't that the pre-dual core 775 chipset?


965p came out with original Conroe core 2 duos. It's gotten bios revisions to allow up to the qx9650. So it'll work with the xeon.







My board will do up to around 430-450 fsb so it should do 4ghz with a 9.5x multi chip.

Gigabyte 965p ds3.

It was the best board till the p35 DFI bloodiron then the gigabyte p45 ds3r. So it should do okay. Just debating on that or a core i3 or something else cheap. I dunno yet.

I do love my 939 rig with that nf4 sli pro. But the bios is broken to the point it won't Overclock ever. Had so much potential too. I think the pci lock is broken in the bios but could be wrong.


----------



## Kryton

Let me pass this along - The P965 chipped boards will run a Xeon or other type 775 chip BUT you might run into a problem running a 800MHz chip vs a 1333 MHz chip.

My DFI Infinity Dark P965 board has this issue and it was only solved by flashing in an older BIOS file to run older single core chips. When I got it, it would run my E8400 no prob but refused to boot with my P4 651 chip,that being an older 800MHz chip vs the E8400 being a 1333MHz chip.

After doing some digging around, found out that support for older chips with newer BIOS releases for this board was broken and the only way it was going to work would be to flash in an older BIOS file, so that's what I did and it works with the 651 BUT now it doesn't work with the E8400.

I don't know how this might affect trying a 771 chip but just know at least "Some" 775 boards have this BIOS issue.

You can also see what I posted about this here: http://www.411overkill.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=8370


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> 965p came out with original Conroe core 2 duos. It's gotten bios revisions to allow up to the qx9650. So it'll work with the xeon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My board will do up to around 430-450 fsb so it should do 4ghz with a 9.5x multi chip.
> 
> Gigabyte 965p ds3.
> 
> It was the best board till the p35 DFI bloodiron then the gigabyte p45 ds3r. So it should do okay. Just debating on that or a core i3 or something else cheap. I dunno yet.
> 
> I do love my 939 rig with that nf4 sli pro. But the bios is broken to the point it won't Overclock ever. Had so much potential too. I think the pci lock is broken in the bios but could be wrong.


Is it any clock change that doesn't work? or you are just limited to a low clock? I found with the abit and to a lesser extent the ASUS i have, the finer RAM settings can make a big difference in functional clock range. I have to loosen up the Max async latency and the preamble in order to get past around 250 or so. I have also had ram go bad on me and it worked perfectly at stock settings, but anything over 200 and I would bsod no matter the volts or timings. Have you checked the RAM recently? Don't be offended if you've already tried this stuff. I'm just spitballin here trying to get another person up and running for the comp


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> 965p came out with original Conroe core 2 duos. It's gotten bios revisions to allow up to the qx9650. So it'll work with the xeon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My board will do up to around 430-450 fsb so it should do 4ghz with a 9.5x multi chip.
> 
> Gigabyte 965p ds3.
> 
> It was the best board till the p35 DFI bloodiron then the gigabyte p45 ds3r. So it should do okay. Just debating on that or a core i3 or something else cheap. I dunno yet.
> 
> I do love my 939 rig with that nf4 sli pro. But the bios is broken to the point it won't Overclock ever. Had so much potential too. I think the pci lock is broken in the bios but could be wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> Is it any clock change that doesn't work? or you are just limited to a low clock? I found with the abit and to a lesser extent the ASUS i have, the finer RAM settings can make a big difference in functional clock range. I have to loosen up the Max async latency and the preamble in order to get past around 250 or so. I have also had ram go bad on me and it worked perfectly at stock settings, but anything over 200 and I would bsod no matter the volts or timings. Have you checked the RAM recently? Don't be offended if you've already tried this stuff. I'm just spitballin here trying to get another person up and running for the comp
Click to expand...

It's definitely a problem with the bios itself. Even 201 htt and it won't post. It's complained about all over the Internet with this board.

Gigabyte k8n pro sli. Look it up lol.

If anyone can help fix this board I'm all ears. Kryton and Mr Scott I'm looking at you lol.


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> It's definitely a problem with the bios itself. Even 201 htt and it won't post. It's complained about all over the Internet with this board.
> 
> Gigabyte k8n pro sli. Look it up lol.
> 
> If anyone can help fix this board I'm all ears. Kryton and Mr Scott I'm looking at you lol.


ok im working on it







lets fix this! What bios are you on? I've seen that F8 and F9 were problems.... There are also some suggestions that you can leave nothing on auto. This in particular caught my eye "All newer bios's seem to have auto-detect PCI clock on by default which wont help."

Edit: It could also be the HT is really sensitive and HAS to be 1000 or below. I'm sure you drop the HT to 4 or 3 x to start OCing anyways, but there were a lot of folks dropping it to 2.5 or 2 in order to get the HTT up. Also looks like some folks had better luck software overclocking with easytune.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> It's definitely a problem with the bios itself. Even 201 htt and it won't post. It's complained about all over the Internet with this board.
> 
> Gigabyte k8n pro sli. Look it up lol.
> 
> If anyone can help fix this board I'm all ears. Kryton and Mr Scott I'm looking at you lol.
> 
> 
> 
> ok im working on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lets fix this! What bios are you on? I've seen that F8 and F9 were problems.... There are also some suggestions that you can leave nothing on auto. This in particular caught my eye "All newer bios's seem to have auto-detect PCI clock on by default which wont help."
Click to expand...

I honestly don't know. That rig is in my storage unit right now. No Internet yet. I'll have it at the beginning of the month though.

I've tried older and newer bioses. They all do it. And I've tried everything off auto. Only way I do things anyway lol. It's seriously got me stumped.


----------



## eternalenergy311

Hey guys,

So I just bought a 180 opty x2 off eBay for 28 bucks. Hopefully not a dud. Any tips on OC this chip?. It will go on my sig rig setup for now, as this is my HTPC primarily, and I was really hoping to hit that 3.0 ghz mark stable. As you all know, the 3800x2 just won't do it, unless of course you have a lanparty board. 2.83 has always been my " stable limit", if I keep the memory down to like 187 or so. Certainly not a memory bottleneck as the redlines will run ddr500 all day no problem.


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> So I just bought a 180 opty x2 off eBay for 28 bucks. Hopefully not a dud. Any tips on OC this chip?. It will go on my sig rig setup for now, as this is my HTPC primarily, and I was really hoping to hit that 3.0 ghz mark stable. As you all know, the 3800x2 just won't do it, unless of course you have a lanparty board. 2.83 has always been my " stable limit", if I keep the memory down to like 187 or so. Certainly not a memory bottleneck as the redlines will run ddr500 all day no problem.


Do you know the stepping on that 180? I have a 180 that just runs hot... It can hit 3GHz, but certainly not stable on air because I'd never be able to give it the volts it needs without getting too hot. Its a LCB9E I believe. Also, do you know your boards HTT limit? As you mentioned Lanpartys tend to have a lot of headroom up to 350 or so. The 180 won't need that, just 250 to get to 3GHZ. So in theory you won't even need to put the DDR500 on a divider (though with your 4 sticks it might force a 166 divider?) If it does, you might have to actually lower the multi down from 12 to 11 to get the most out of your RAM. Really the stepping will play the most role in wether or not you can get to 3GHz or get it stable.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> So I just bought a 180 opty x2 off eBay for 28 bucks. Hopefully not a dud. Any tips on OC this chip?. It will go on my sig rig setup for now, as this is my HTPC primarily, and I was really hoping to hit that 3.0 ghz mark stable. As you all know, the 3800x2 just won't do it, unless of course you have a lanparty board. 2.83 has always been my " stable limit", if I keep the memory down to like 187 or so. Certainly not a memory bottleneck as the redlines will run ddr500 all day no problem.


The biggest thing to watch for obviously are temps under load. I also have a 180 and like Toughacton's, it runs rather warm. If yours is either a LCBBE, LCB9E or even a LCBQE, it should be good, I don't know about other steppings.
It should be able to hit 3.0 with about 1.40v's used, maybe a tad less depending on how you tune it. Running a lower multi to get there will help a little with temps if they are an issue. As you know, there are no guarantees but hopefully you have a good one.


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Do you know the stepping on that 180? I have a 180 that just runs hot... It can hit 3GHz, but certainly not stable on air because I'd never be able to give it the volts it needs without getting too hot. Its a LCB9E I believe. Also, do you know your boards HTT limit? As you mentioned Lanpartys tend to have a lot of headroom up to 350 or so. The 180 won't need that, just 250 to get to 3GHZ. So in theory you won't even need to put the DDR500 on a divider (though with your 4 sticks it might force a 166 divider?) If it does, you might have to actually lower the multi down from 12 to 11 to get the most out of your RAM. Really the stepping will play the most role in wether or not you can get to 3GHz or get it stable.


I thought the multi was locked at 10 on everything except FX series 939's. I have never had astable HTT over 292 on the board, running the 4 gigs of memory and the 3800X2. I guess I will be satisfied with a stable 2.9, if i can pull that off with all 4 sticks in. As for the memory divider, yes 166 is a definite. If i wasnt running so many software based servers out of this machine, i would probably drop down to just two sticks.


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*
> 
> I thought the multi was locked at 10 on everything except FX series 939's. I have never had astable HTT over 292 on the board, running the 4 gigs of memory and the 3800X2. I guess I will be satisfied with a stable 2.9, if i can pull that off with all 4 sticks in. As for the memory divider, yes 166 is a definite. If i wasnt running so many software based servers out of this machine, i would probably drop down to just two sticks.


FX are the only ones upwardly unlocked. so fx-60 starts at x13 but you can bump up to 14 or 15 or whatever. However all 939 chips can be down clocked with the multi. so the 180 which starts at x 12 can be set at x11 or whatever down to like x6 or something depending on your board. so you could in theory drop the multi to 11 from 12 and then use FSB of 272 to get 3GHZ and a better RAM speed on the 166 divider. I have run into boards or early BIOSes that won't let you move the multi down, but my asus and dfi will. I would imagine that yours does as well. If you are interested I am hosting a 939 OC comp next month with quite a few 939 goodies as prizes. Would be great to have another competitor since you are gunning for 3GHz anyways







Here's the link


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> FX are the only ones upwardly unlocked. so fx-60 starts at x13 but you can bump up to 14 or 15 or whatever. However all 939 chips can be down clocked with the multi. so the 180 which starts at x 12 can be set at x11 or whatever down to like x6 or something depending on your board. so you could in theory drop the multi to 11 from 12 and then use FSB of 272 to get 3GHZ and a better RAM speed on the 166 divider. I have run into boards or early BIOSes that won't let you move the multi down, but my asus and dfi will. I would imagine that yours does as well. If you are interested I am hosting a 939 OC comp next month with quite a few 939 goodies as prizes. Would be great to have another competitor since you are gunning for 3GHz anyways
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the link


After further research, I figured that out that these start at 12X as well. I have a 146 opty single core and that stopped at 10X. I had already planned on sacraficing that chip to your competition If this new opty performs well by then, I may keep it as my primary S939 chip, and do some damage to the 3800x2 for fun. I have never taken it over 1.44v so maybe it could atleast POST a 3.0ghz mark for me once, well see.

Edit:

Yeh, my baord has always been very stable with the HTT at 272-273, and just a 25mv bump to the CPU voltage, so i was planning on starting exactly where your saying. 11x, 3xhyper multi, 166 divider....hopefully all that produces me a stable OC. I would be happy for the 28USD upgrade. Not like i can really upgrade the sytem much more.....i suppose buy a DFI LP.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> It's definitely a problem with the bios itself. Even 201 htt and it won't post. It's complained about all over the Internet with this board.
> 
> Gigabyte k8n pro sli. Look it up lol.
> 
> If anyone can help fix this board I'm all ears. Mr Scott I'm looking at you lol.


Try this and tell me if it helps.
Do at your own risk. I don't have that board to test on.

k8npsli.zip 464k .zip file


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> It's definitely a problem with the bios itself. Even 201 htt and it won't post. It's complained about all over the Internet with this board.
> 
> Gigabyte k8n pro sli. Look it up lol.
> 
> If anyone can help fix this board I'm all ears. Mr Scott I'm looking at you lol.
> 
> 
> 
> Try this and tell me if it helps.
> Do at your own risk. I don't have that board to test on.
> 
> k8npsli.zip 464k .zip file
Click to expand...

I don't have it sitting in front of me nor will I for about 2 weeks (no Internet till then). I will give anything a try lol.

Any idea what the flash procedure is? Been so long without that rig I've forgotten. I hope I don't need a floppy drive lol.

Thanks for digging that up though. Appreciated.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> I don't have it sitting in front of me nor will I for about 2 weeks (no Internet till then). I will give anything a try lol.
> 
> Any idea what the flash procedure is? Been so long without that rig I've forgotten. I hope I don't need a floppy drive lol.
> 
> Thanks for digging that up though. Appreciated.


You can grab you an old 1 or 2 GB flash drive, and load a Win 98 boot disk to it, (using a Win 98 boot to USB type prog) along with the bios and flash prog, and do it all off the thumb drive. I keep a small drive around just for mobo and GPU BIOS flashing.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> I don't have it sitting in front of me nor will I for about 2 weeks (no Internet till then). I will give anything a try lol.
> 
> Any idea what the flash procedure is? Been so long without that rig I've forgotten. I hope I don't need a floppy drive lol.
> 
> Thanks for digging that up though. Appreciated.


Didn't really 'dig' it up. I just put it together for you. I was bored.








If it doesn't work let me know. There are a couple more things I can try.


----------



## eternalenergy311

Well I havent had a chance to play with it yet, just threw some settings in Bios i thought would work and it hit 3.0!! I'm happy with that for the price. I will torture it later. Seemed to run a little hot, 42 idle compared to 31 idle i was getting with my 3800x2. LCBBE stepping I think. +50 mv, 166 divider, 3x HT, 11x multi, ......and I just realized i forgot to shut off cool n' quiet....

I think I'm gonna try HTT250, 12xmulti +25mv, 200/divider(no div), 4HT. The temps are concerning.

....and thats a no go. 42 idle, 64 loaded is not gonna be acceptable. I did run 4 hours prime stable at the initial seetings I posted. I am running an amd stock 4 heatpipe cooler. lol. so what should I expect . I'm thinking a good lapping is in its future.

---The lapping helped some. 36 idle but still 59-60 running prime(stable) for several hours. I guess I'll take it.


----------



## endo

Just out of curiosity is a FX-60 worth anything anymore?


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *endo*
> 
> Just out of curiosity is a FX-60 worth anything anymore?


It most definitely is, but nothing like it was just 2 - 3 years ago. They go for just a little more then the locked equivalent, the opty 185, I'd say $150 or so. If you meant worth anything performance wise, oh yeah! 939 still performs awesome for everyday computing, and some gaming.


----------



## mohit9206

I have an 64X2 4600 based PC lying around with a faulty motherboard.Is it worth getting a new mobo for it and revive it for basic tasks ?My main rig is in my sig.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mohit9206*
> 
> I have an 64X2 4600 based PC lying around with a faulty motherboard.Is it worth getting a new mobo for it and revive it for basic tasks ?My main rig is in my sig.


It's probably cheap enough to replace the board... I'd say its only worth it if you really want another desktop set up at your house.


----------



## toughacton

Hey folks I have a bit of a quandary. I think I broke my a8r32 bios. I have tried 2 different cpus now and I keep getting a checksum error in the boot process on anything above a clock of 240. 240 works perfectly fine, then 241, no boot. Its weird. The RAM is perfectly fine at that speed and the cpus are good past that (or have been in the past) I may just try reflashing the bios anyways, but if anyone here knows of any other potential causes I'm all ears.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Hey folks I have a bit of a quandary. I think I broke my a8r32 bios. I have tried 2 different cpus now and I keep getting a checksum error in the boot process on anything above a clock of 240. 240 works perfectly fine, then 241, no boot. Its weird. The RAM is perfectly fine at that speed and the cpus are good past that (or have been in the past) I may just try reflashing the bios anyways, but if anyone here knows of any other potential causes I'm all ears.


I'm sure you've tried, but there could just be a bad hole from 241 to another point,so if you keep increasing the clock it might post higher. Keep RAM and HT in check though.


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*
> 
> I'm sure you've tried, but there could just be a bad hole from 241 to another point,so if you keep increasing the clock it might post higher. Keep RAM and HT in check though.


I figured it out. It was actually the RAM. Lost all stability out of it. It was super hot too. maybe it just can't handle the voltage anymore... Put new RAM in and everything is fine. Although i did reflash bios to make sure tat wasnt it.


----------



## frogger4

Well, I have passed the 939 torch off to one of my friends for his first build-it-yourself desktop. I moved across country and could only take one rig with me, so the "retro" rig for the most part stayed behind. I'm keeping the FX-55 though for nostalgia's sake.









I suspect I may be posting here again when he starts playing with the rig and works out all the many kinks that come with old hardware.


----------



## Chozo4

I remember using my socket 939 Opteron 170 quite fondly and still serves me till this day... just not as my active use machine any longer and slowly being delegated to being a NAS server instead. If I recall it was an LCB9E series Opteron and was a really nice overclocker for the time I was using it until the tasks I needed to do were maxing it out even at 2.71ghz on air (Namely Mechwarrior Online early beta it couldn't keep up with). Didn't quite get to the 3ghz mark but I was working on it.

Here is the validation dump that applied to it at the time: http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1935914


----------



## Omega215d

Those Opterons were great, especially if you got them at a low price. I've had my 170 for a few years after moving from a single core 939 Athlon. It started out life on an AGP equipped nForce 3 MSI board running a 6800GT and then finally updated to an nForce 4 board with a 7900GT which is still in service today as my parents' computer. I don't see it needing an upgrade for years. Heck, I could stay play CS:GO and BF 3 on it if I wanted to.


----------



## toughacton

Congrats to the prize winners in the 939 overclocking competition! It was a blast and great to see folks still having fun with these great ol systems. You can check out the prize winners here.


----------



## Hueristic

Sup Guys, Been awhile as I don't hang online much anymore but thought you guys would find this thread amusing.









http://www.overclock.net/t/1439341/asrock-rma-issue


----------



## blooder11181

damn. i bought 754 rig


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blooder11181*
> 
> damn. i bought 754 rig


OC till it Bleeds, Kryton is still strangling those chips I think. Barton?


----------



## blooder11181

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> OC till it Bleeds, Kryton is still strangling those chips I think. Barton?


no
athlon 64 3000+ venice socket 754
axper m8vm800 f1 bios (gigabyte 2ºbrand)


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> OC till it Bleeds, Kryton is still strangling those chips I think. Barton?


Every chance I get which hasn't been alot as of late.









Good hearing from you Hue.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> Every chance I get which hasn't been alot as of late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good hearing from you Hue.


I drop in once a year whether I want to or not!


----------



## Kryton

Gotta be when you pass by the PC to and from the fridge.
















You have to pop in more often - You're missing some good stuff that's been happening as of late!


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

Hello everybody! Last year I was lucky enough to jump on a deal here in the marketplace and purchase a DFI LANParty UT nF4 SLI-DR Expert. (http://www.overclock.net/t/1289293/overclockers-dream-system). I never really got around to getting things put together but recently I was able to get my hands on an Opteron 185 so.............. YIPPEE!!! My favorite socket is now back in action. Wanted to submit my validation for entrance into the club. http://valid.canardpc.com/xuva0x


----------



## nategr8ns

Wow, that was a steal! congrats


----------



## Roaches

Revived from the dead today!! Another Athlon 64 Socket 939 rig.


















Parts list
http://www.overclock.net/lists/display/view/id/5532812

Gawd, today just remind me how much of a headache ribbon IDE cables can be during old times, thank goodness for SATA


----------



## StormX2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z3r0_k00l75*
> 
> Hello everybody! Last year I was lucky enough to jump on a deal here in the marketplace and purchase a DFI LANParty UT nF4 SLI-DR Expert. (http://www.overclock.net/t/1289293/overclockers-dream-system). I never really got around to getting things put together but recently I was able to get my hands on an Opteron 185 so.............. YIPPEE!!! My favorite socket is now back in action. Wanted to submit my validation for entrance into the club. http://valid.canardpc.com/xuva0x


Gratz! how well does the board itself handle?

like in the 310+ FSB area ;p


----------



## slow3v

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roaches*
> 
> Revived from the dead today!! Another Athlon 64 Socket 939 rig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts list
> http://www.overclock.net/lists/display/view/id/5532812
> 
> Gawd, today just remind me how much of a headache ribbon IDE cables can be during old times, thank goodness for SATA


Oh my god I had that card back in the s754 days / P4 2.4C days.


----------



## Roaches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slow3v*
> 
> Oh my god I had that card back in the s754 days / P4 2.4C days.


Yep the BFG 6800 still works! sadly its an old AGP card









I went as far to disassembling the 2 tiny fans and heatsink to soak it in soap to clean the hard dust deposits, slapped in some MX2 TIM, refilled the bearings with synthetic oil.....Now its running quiet as new









Before it was generating tons of noise before I cleaned it out.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roaches*
> 
> Yep the BFG 6800 still works! sadly its an old AGP card


Unlock the extra pipelines?


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Unlock the extra pipelines?


Rivatuner, unlock hidden errr sumthing er other, ( memory fails me) and badabing you now have a GT I think....lol


----------



## SwishaMane

PLEASE someone buy this combo and put her to good use! THIS IS NOT MY AUCTION. Just an awesome combo one of us should have instead of some creep noob. LOL

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dfi-lanparty-nf4-SLI-ultra-d-939-4400-x2-2-2ghz-4gb-ocz-El-ram-combo-/201005625069?pt=US_Motherboard_CPU_Combos&hash=item2eccde6eed

That buy it now + s/h is worth it, let alone the starting bid. I would just to hold onto, but Im broke. And as my 939 setup is MINT, I just can't do it.


----------



## Roaches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> PLEASE someone buy this combo and put her to good use! THIS IS NOT MY AUCTION. Just an awesome combo one of us should have instead of some creep noob. LOL
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dfi-lanparty-nf4-SLI-ultra-d-939-4400-x2-2-2ghz-4gb-ocz-El-ram-combo-/201005625069?pt=US_Motherboard_CPU_Combos&hash=item2eccde6eed
> 
> That buy it now + s/h is worth it, let alone the starting bid. I would just to hold onto, but Im broke. And as my 939 setup is MINT, I just can't do it.


Ain't it kinda disturbing that people are placing their motherboards on the carpet like that :/ like shown in that ebay link.


----------



## SwishaMane

Not really. Its even scarier when people put mobos on top of anti-static packaging. The nature of the packaging is anti-static INSIDE. From what i understand, its works the opposite on the outside. LOL


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> PLEASE someone buy this combo and put her to good use! THIS IS NOT MY AUCTION. Just an awesome combo one of us should have instead of some creep noob. LOL
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dfi-lanparty-nf4-SLI-ultra-d-939-4400-x2-2-2ghz-4gb-ocz-El-ram-combo-/201005625069?pt=US_Motherboard_CPU_Combos&hash=item2eccde6eed
> 
> That buy it now + s/h is worth it, let alone the starting bid. I would just to hold onto, but Im broke. And as my 939 setup is MINT, I just can't do it.


Sigh, like i needed any help spending my money...lol

Thanks for the heads up swisha


----------



## Roaches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Not really. Its even scarier when people put mobos on top of anti-static packaging. The nature of the packaging is anti-static INSIDE. From what i understand, its works the opposite on the outside. LOL


Isn't that a myth, there's lots of conflicting arguments floating out the net about placing hardware on static bags claiming it kills hardware....Done it a few times myself ages ago on my older hardware, none of them died to this day and still rocking.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Not really. Its even scarier when people put mobos on top of anti-static packaging. The nature of the packaging is anti-static INSIDE. From what i understand, its works the opposite on the outside. LOL


Yeah I agree with that. I'm pretty sure the outer layer of the bag is conductive. Just don't run the motherboard on it and it will most likely be safe.

Putting the hardware on any surface isn't going to guarantee that it breaks, but its all an odds game when it comes to electricity.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roaches*
> 
> Isn't that a myth, there's lots of conflicting arguments floating out the net about placing hardware on static bags claiming it kills hardware....Done it a few times myself ages ago on my older hardware, none of them died to this day and still rocking.


Oh, Ive done it plenty myself, and havent broke anything because of it, but its not the technicality, it can also be the environment. You know, static flares up during winter months on couches and beds and such, just a 50 / 50 game I guess.

BTW, I TRYING tot alk this guy out the DD block for that s939 combo. NEED A NEW BLOCK BAD FOR MY RIG! lol

EDIT: He wont sell me the block unless the item doesnt sell. So, someone here buy the combo and sell me the block!!! he he


----------



## Roaches

My room and living room is cluttered with hardware from OCN at the moment...I'd buy the combo if I didn't have to deal with the mess I'm in right now. I'd love to do another 939 build with that combo.



I need to get my lazy arse and finish my RV01 project >_> takes a huge amount of room, my family is nagging at me on when to finish it XD.


----------



## cssorkinman

I won the auction - Ultra D inbound







- Hope I wasn't bidding against any of you fellows


----------



## Roaches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> I won the auction - Ultra D inbound
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Hope I wasn't bidding against any of you fellows


Nahhh, It was only in my watch list just to spectate....have fun with the mobo


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roaches*
> 
> Nahhh, It was only in my watch list just to spectate....have fun with the mobo


Thank you , I'll see what she can do


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> I won the auction - Ultra D inbound
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Hope I wasn't bidding against any of you fellows


Good for you Corky!

Let's hope it's a good one.


----------



## ozlay

I wouldn't mind being a member doesnt seem to be too many 4800+ owners









http://valid.canardpc.com/k66kzv


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> I won the auction - Ultra D inbound
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Hope I wasn't bidding against any of you fellows


w00t! Will you sell me the DD block set?


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> I won the auction - Ultra D inbound
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Hope I wasn't bidding against any of you fellows


Bastard.









Snipe program failed. Needed to replace the board I blew up in the CC.
Nice buy.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Bastard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Snipe program failed.
> Nice buy.


lol ,sorry scotty


----------



## Mr.Scott

All good bro. There's a million of 'em out there.
Nice package deal that was though.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> I won the auction - Ultra D inbound
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Hope I wasn't bidding against any of you fellows


Lol, I almost did. It was easily worth that price. I just can't justify spending money.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> All good bro. There's a million of 'em out there.
> Nice package deal that was though.


I've always wanted to try a DFI, this will be my first one. I'm sure I'll need some advice from the experts here at some point.

A couple of EVGA 9800GT akimbo's are waiting to be SLI'd on it as well as 9800 gtx + 's too - hoping for new personal best's in socket 939 3D06 scores.

Seemed reasonable to me. The 4Gb of OCZ plats , delidded cpu and the waterblock sure sweetened the deal









Not sure about the block Swisha, I may play with it for a while. I've just built my first custom loop, it's on the test bench in the garage for now ( 480mm rad, D 5 pump and some 1/2" id tubing.) could make for some good clocks


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Not sure about the block Swisha, I may play with it for a while. I've just built my first custom loop, it's on the test bench in the garage for now ( 480mm rad, D 5 pump and some 1/2" id tubing.) could make for some good clocks


Cool man, yeah, use it! My universal XSPC block is working fine, just not what I want completely. I just wanted to get it from the buyer if they didnt need it, because I can use it, and didnt want it to go unused / wasted...

EDIT: That 4GB of RAM was a sweet extra, and the CPU is good too, so dang. Good deal mane. Told you guys GET THAT! lol








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> All good bro. There's a million of 'em out there.
> Nice package deal that was though.


Here Mr. Scott, snatch this man. Nice combo too.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/321279907704?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Cool man, yeah, use it! My universal XSPC block is working fine, just not what I want completely. I just wanted to get it from the buyer if they didnt need it, because I can use it, and didnt want it to go unused / wasted...
> 
> EDIT: That 4GB of RAM was a sweet extra, and the CPU is good too, so dang. Good deal mane. Told you guys GET THAT! lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here Mr. Scott, snatch this man. Nice combo too.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/321279907704?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


Yes it is.


----------



## SwishaMane

I like to see the good stuff go to people who appreciate it.


----------



## seaFs

Hello everybody,

I'm glad to see someone still has fun with 939. So do I








Recently updated my rig and wanted to share my results.
Pushed my Toledo 4400+ to 3003MHz @ 1,376V on air (trying 1,36V next time), together with 8GB of registered RAM (Qimonda CF-5 BGA chips). They run as DDR500 3-3-3-5 1T 2,7V. Mainboard is not a DFI, but an Asus A8N32-SLI. It took me some weeks to get to know the different stability options in the BIOS, but finally CPU passes 2h Prime95 largeFFT and RAM passes 2h Prime95 custom blend (7300MB).
All paired with a HD4890 (undervolted and underclocked) and a Crucial M4 128GB.

Anybody of you knows more about this mainboard, because I wanted to try higher memory clocks. When using only two DIMMs, I get them past 265MHz, but with four DIMMs it's a bit more tricky because of all memory slots occupied.


----------



## nategr8ns

^ Welcome! That's some amazing RAM specs. 8GB at DDR500??
I personally wouldn't have a clue how to get four 2GB sticks stable any higher. Even at 250MHz your memory controller probably hates itself









Just packed up my Ultra-D to bring back to Seattle







.


----------



## seaFs

Hehe, thanks








Well, this Qimonda CF-5 chips are pretty rare and seem to beat Samsung TCC5. Techtrancer pushed 2x1GB of CF-5 to nearly 300MHz 3-3-2-2 1T, but with above 3V.
That's the problem with my 2GB sticks, they can't handle more than 2,75V. It's getting unstable with 2,8V, and even at 2,7V I need active cooling for the DIMMs. Rated 3-3-3-8 @ 2,5V this server RAM does quite a good job running with tightened timings and a slight increase in voltage. I maxed them out at 240MHz 2.5-3-3-5. CL2 bootet with 220MHz, but I didn't test it any further. So in the end they are better than my two kits of OCZ4002048ELDCPE-K, which use Infineon BE-5 TSOP. Most amazing thing is command rate 1T. When I first plugged the two DIMMs into the A8N32 I didn't even expect my rig to POST. I left everything at auto settings and put another two sticks into it. Voila, 8GB at 2T. Then, just for fun, selected command rate 1T, because I somewhere read of 4 non-reg DIMMs running with 1T. Not much hope was left, because I was really glad to see 8GB actually being recognized. So I underestimated the registered chip. Great invention, if you asked me.








Another funny thing: Four reg DIMMs at 1T have lower access latency than four non-reg DIMMs running with 2T (60ns vs 65ns).

Here's a quick validation of my CPU while Prime95 largeFFT is running.
http://valid.canardpc.com/xk9y2e
The CPU voltage is not correct in the image (1,344V). The correct voltage is 1,36V as written left. I'm going to measure it at the mainboard with a digital multimeter.

I'd like to know what my CPU can do under water. When looking around in the internet I own a pretty well going chip. Mostly you need above 1,4V to hit 3GHz.


----------



## nategr8ns

All I can say is well done







.

You never know, 1.34 may be the actual voltage across the CPU. I'm not sure if there was a common V-droop fix for your board, but you may want to do some quick searches to find out.


----------



## seaFs

I'm not sure if I need a vdroop mod. AFAIR vdroop is a good thing to enhance lifetime and save power. I've set a VID of 1.175V and "overvolt CPU" in BIOS. That gave me 1.360V under load and 1.392V in idle. After an hour of Prime95 largeFFT there was an error, so I'm back at 1.2V + overvolt, which is 1.376V load/1.402V idle. I'm pretty much heat limited now, the CPU is braking 60°C. Core temp is around 65°C.

The "secret" to get the DIMMs to 250MHz were two seperate things. DDR Clock skew and tRef.
Till now I'm not sure what Clock skew does in an electrical understanding. Results range from totally unstable (not even POST) to the result I have now. The auto setting delays some signal the more the memory clock rises. Eventually the BIOS set it to Delay 350ps for each channel (a suggestion you'll find all over the internet for this mainboard), but after hours of experimenting and testing the most stable result was Advance 300ps for each channel. The registered RAM behaves opposite to normal RAM.
tRef is a bit disappointing with the Asus BIOS. As I've read about DFI NF4s, there is a powerful tRef setting in the BIOS and even whole threads about calculating the correct tRef. With the A8N32 there is only the option to set tRef to 3.9, 7.8 and 15.6µs, plus the RAM limit. I ended up with RAM limit 183MHz and tRef 15.6µs. Aida64 reports this settings as "tRef-166MHz 15.6µs". Whenever I use RAM limit 200MHz, tRef will change to 200MHz 15.6µs and the system runs unstable. Games crash, file compressing creates errors and windows freezes when heavy network file access is done.

Most interesting thing about this is that neither Prime95 blend nor Memtest86+ detected the errors fast enough. Over one hour without any problems. But when using FreeArc and unpacking a 3GB archive, I get an error within minutes. So I presume that not the memory itself was at its end, but the mainboard connection between memory and CPU. Errors seem to occur, when certain DIMMs are accessed simultaniously. Maybe this makes the data travelling through the mainboard layers corrupt.

I even thought about using a DFI NF4 mainboard, but there are some aspects that keep me off it.
- 8-phase power and passive cooling on A8N32
- A8N32 definitely works with reg ECC RAM.

The NF4 series is said to be very picky about RAM and has a short lifetime.


----------



## Kryton

DFI's can be finiky but the payoff is what it gives you in return as this screenie shows.



It really takes alot of patience to learn a DFI but once you do, you'll see why these are the preferred boards for 939. Took me forever to figure out how to get results like this but now I can almost do it in my sleep with the right chip and RAM used with my Ultra D.









If you can pickup a DFI board cheaply, why not?
BTW I also have an A8N32 SLI Deluxe and while it's not a bad performer, it's still not quite what a good DFI is. Also know the A8N32 is also a NF4 board so it's roughly the same thing.

What makes them prone to die is how they are treated and DFI's being what they are were clearly pushed to the limit as a standard vs anything else.


----------



## seaFs

Did some steps towards a suicide.
http://valid.canardpc.com/6i5t4z
3,2GHz, 1,5V
267MHz RAM, 2,75V
Don't know if it is stable, but the Aida64 memory bench scores are sick








http://abload.de/img/cachemem_267r-3-3-3-52nqt8.png
I definitely need better cooling, but I have no clue what's the best heat sink for 939. Also I removed the IHS off of the CPU to put some AC MX-2 under it. Maybe there is an option to go without the cap. Reminds me of the old socket 462 days when I ruined my first die


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Did some steps towards a suicide.
> http://valid.canardpc.com/6i5t4z
> 3,2GHz, 1,5V
> 267MHz RAM, 2,75V
> Don't know if it is stable, but the Aida64 memory bench scores are sick
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://abload.de/img/cachemem_267r-3-3-3-52nqt8.png
> I definitely need better cooling, but I have no clue what's the best heat sink for 939. Also I removed the IHS off of the CPU to put some AC MX-2 under it. Maybe there is an option to go without the cap. Reminds me of the old socket 462 days when I ruined my first die


With a little ingenuity, you can put a 212+ on it.


----------



## seaFs

Exchanged the TIM of the mainboard with MX-2. It was like a brick beneath the two heat sinks. Not sure, if it is better now, maximum NB temp is again ~55°C, when prime95 largeFFT and Furmark are running.
Reading points for Vcore are blocked by my CPU cooler. When I have some more time, I'll solder two wires to the free capacitor place and measure a bit. I've read that the sensors show too low voltages.
About the DFI NF4. Someone tried running buffered (registered) ECC chips on it and failed, not even POST. Is there an ECC option in the BIOS at all?

I'm currently using a Xigmatek HDT-S1284 CPU cooler. With 100% fan speed (~1300rpm) (too loud for me), but keeps the cores below 60°C at 1,5V.
The ultimate air cooling would be either a Noctua NH-D14 or a bequiet Dark Rock Pro 2, although I guess it's not worth the money








I'm looking for a cooler with a flat contact to the CPU, maybe a used IFX-14. Unfortunately it's hard to find a K8 bolt thru kit for it.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> I'm looking for a cooler with a flat contact to the CPU, maybe a used IFX-14. Unfortunately it's hard to find a K8 bolt thru kit for it.


Not necessary. Find a cooler you like and see link for mod.









http://www.overclock.net/t/293448/the-socket-939-appreciation-club-and-knowledgebase-official/25500_100#post_18809069


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> About the DFI NF4. Someone tried running buffered (registered) ECC chips on it and failed, not even POST. Is there an ECC option in the BIOS at all?


ECC RAM isn't really made for speed, it's made for stability so don't count on it reaching the high clocks we're getting with our setups.
In fact ECC isn't a necessity at all for OC'ing, just find a good set of regular DDR sticks and clock them up.

Yes, DFI's are picky about what RAM you run in them, some sticks simply won't work in them at all.

BTW I do believe there is the option to enable ECC in the BIOS but no guarantees here if it would work with ECC RAM or not.


----------



## seaFs

@Mr.Scott: So basically the same thing I did in my second PC. I used the bracket of a Zalman CNPS7700 with the standard mounting screws to hold down a HDT-S1283. Downside: the screws reach over 1cm below the mainbaord to get enough pressure and the cooler can be moved a bit.
Alright, so I'll have to look for some scrap metal and two strong springs.

@Kryton: AFAIK all mainboards that do not have the ECC option in BIOS won't boot with ECC sticks. I am using registered ECC PC3200, but disabled ECC for bandwidth reasons. My last hope would be that there is that particular ECC option at the DFI NF4s to show it can handle such memory.

Anybody knows how to make a good spacer for delidded CPUs?


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> .
> 
> Anybody knows how to make a good spacer for delidded CPUs?


Don't need one with my method. Just be careful tightening.


----------



## SwishaMane

If you find yourself a super cheap old Corsair H60, I've got a modded AM2 bracket made to mount to s939. Works great! I HAD some pics, but can't find them, but it worked GOOD.









EDIT: found them on my host...





Basically, you use stock backplate, mounting ring, all 4 springs (2 stacked per side), and tighten until the screw flushes with bottom of backplate. Perfect!


----------



## seaFs

Alright, I've found a lapped IFX-14 with two Scythe fans for just a few bucks, unfortunately only with a 775 mounting kit. It should be here in a few days. I'm going to search for my delidded Athlon64 3000+ for test mountings. Don't want to ruin the 4400+ LCB9E 0630 APMW.


----------



## seaFs

I've noticed something at the A8N32-SLI. When taking off the retention module of the socket, I discovered four tiny spots of tin that exactly meet the mounting holes of socket 775 push-pin holes.
http://abload.de/img/a8n32-sli_no-retentiokrx7w.jpg
Unfortunately there are no tin spots at the back of the board.

Looking at an early (?) image of the P5N32-SLI, which is the socket 775 brother of the A8N32-SLI, one can see the same spots.
http://www.ixbt.com/mainboard/asus/asus-p5n32-sli-deluxe-nforce4ie/board-big.jpg

The question is, whether I can bore out this spots to mount the IFX-14 with the 775 kit on it. The back shows no data wires beneath the tin spots, only big areas of copper. Anybody wants to try this on a spare A8N32?








I hope that there are no data wires in the layers of the board.


----------



## nategr8ns

I would be terrified...
What if they only share the top layer or so?


----------



## seaFs

Well, that's why I don't want to make it on ym board. I have no other board here to use if it is broken^^


----------



## seaFs

The IFX-14 arrived today. Because of not much time yet I did a quick and dirty mount on the A8N32.
Took a look into the bag full of mounting content and, surprise, the standard bracket of the cooler hast the same hole width as socket 939. I removed the 939 retention module, but kept the backplate. The brass screw risers of an old Zalman CNPS7000B had to be abused so that the spring screws of the IFX can be tightened at all. I can take some photos tomorrow, if you want.

Temps are better by ~7°C (!!!) compared with the HDT-S1284 (52°C vs 59°C). Still there is some room for improvements.
- Only one fan installed right now. Second one incoming as soon as I know how to use the fan brackets of Thermalright...
- As written above, quick and dirty, the TIM is not placed very well. The core temperatur difference is ~7°C, which is worse than before (3°C)
- Mounting pressure is not very high, I'am afraid of crushing the core or doing something wrong with the spring screws.
- The lapping was done very bad, the bottom of the cooler is still convex. I guess this will be my first lapping experience.








- IHS is still on the core.


----------



## SwishaMane

IF those two boards are "brothers" between AMD and Intel, then I can safely assume the tin marks are completely safe as long as you drill EXACTLY the size hole you need, dead center on those spots. Do a pilot with a SMALL drill bit, then expand with correct size. Try it mane!

PROTIP: DO IT!







AND, test board outside case to be sure. If it works, THEN put that bad boy back together completely.


----------



## seaFs

Alright, Ladies and Gentlemen.
It's done for now!
The IFX is now lapped a bit better (no mirror finish), the IHS is off, two fans are installed, and the temps are down to 45°C with 75% fan cycle at Prime 95 maximum heat. Core difference is about 5°C and I'm very satisfied with that monster heat sink









So, let's summarize:
HDT-S1284, one fan, 75% cycle: 59°C CPU
IFX-14, one fan, 75% cycle: 52°C CPU
IFX-14, lapped, two fans, no IHS, 75% cycle: 45°C

I'd say this is an awesome result.
Further OCing incoming


----------



## SwishaMane

We'd all say thats a dang good improvement. 59C to 45C... yeah. My 939's watercooling only comes up short of 45C full heat, and thats an RX240 with 4 AP-15s push / pull. So you're doing good on air man!


----------



## endo

Just an FYI I posted my FX-60 in the for sale section.


----------



## Hueristic

So I needed another Miner and broke out my 939 gear and can't believe how much I've forgotten!

I'm going to try running this system with 4 270's and undervolt as low as possible. What are your guys starting recommendations?

I'm using a Lanparty and a 165 that will only run 1 chip in single mode. Over volted @400 was a little to much for the poor thing!









BTW all you guys working on your memory remember how weak these mem controllers are.

Also just wanted to give a shout out to you guys.







It's been so long and as soon as I pulled out the gear I thought of you all.

And for the memories...
























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----------



## SwishaMane

My starting recommendation is that I dont think theres a 939 board with 4 pci-e 16x... Unless you break the 1 and 4x at the end of the port so a 16x length card can fit. Unless Im missing something.

I have HAD an opty 180 that only runs single core. Its board has to have a BIOS flash for single core or it will just hang.







Tossed it after failed de-lid. Theres a pic somewhere in here of it. lol


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> My starting recommendation is that I dont think theres a 939 board with 4 pci-e 16x... Unless you break the 1 and 4x at the end of the port so a 16x length card can fit. Unless Im missing something.
> 
> I have HAD an opty 180 that only runs single core. Its board has to have a BIOS flash for single core or it will just hang.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tossed it after failed de-lid. Theres a pic somewhere in here of it. lol


I'll be modding 1x cables for the DFI. Hunt that pic up I could use a chuckle.







I think I remember that.







Sanded right through the substrate correct? Or was that the exacto slip? My memory is horrible.


----------



## SwishaMane

Razor cut a little into the PCB. I never confirmed if the CPU was ruined, but it was alrdy down one core when I got it. No big deal anyway. Just an old 180.


----------



## phenom01

My brother still has my AMD Opteron 170 CCB1E and 2-2-2-5 Wonder ram on a DFI Lan party VENUS. IN a koolance watercooled case. God i spent way to much on that pc...but it was and still is a beast. Memories!!!


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Razor cut a little into the PCB. I never confirmed if the CPU was ruined, but it was alrdy down one core when I got it. No big deal anyway. Just an old 180.


Thanks for digging that up man! Good times.







Strangling those babies for all they were worth, Too bad there's nothing like that these days.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phenom01*
> 
> My brother still has my AMD Opteron 170 CCB1E and 2-2-2-5 Wonder ram on a DFI Lan party VENUS. IN a koolance watercooled case. God i spent way to much on that pc...but it was and still is a beast. Memories!!!


Damn those Were so far out of range it wasn't even funny! The only guy I know that had one was N2Gaming and I don't think he ever got it working.


----------



## zila

You're making me want to dig out my old socket 939 rigs. I think they were the most fun platforms AMD ever had.


----------



## SwishaMane

Never seen a venus in person. Always thought about modding a LANparty into a venus by replacing all the normal caps with the equivalent in solid aluminum caps.









I believe thats the ONLY difference.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Never seen a venus in person. Always thought about modding a LANparty into a venus by replacing all the normal caps with the equivalent in solid aluminum caps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe thats the ONLY difference.


Really?
Also, do you think the quality of the solder joints would make a difference in stability/performance? If new caps make that much of a difference I would think it would be quite sensitive to sub-par soldering. I personally don't think I could do a good enough job.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*
> 
> Really?
> Also, do you think the quality of the solder joints would make a difference in stability/performance? If new caps make that much of a difference I would think it would be quite sensitive to sub-par soldering. I personally don't think I could do a good enough job.


Dont solder sub par, boom, fixed.







I honestly have no idea otherwise. I think Mr. Scott would probably know more about the Venus than most of us. IDK tho.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Dont solder sub par, boom, fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I honestly have no idea otherwise. I think Mr. Scott would probably know more about the Venus than most of us. IDK tho.


The only difference between the Venus and the Expert is the caps, and the box.


----------



## phenom01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> The only difference between the Venus and the Expert is the caps, and the box.


It was/is a pretty sweet box. I still own it...and I guess the MB even tho Its not in my hands


----------



## Mr.Scott

They're very rare now.....so is the box. Still fetch pretty good money even now. Lucky guy.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I'm kinda wondering how good Mr. Scott is at BIOS mods.









I know its not 939 related, but I've got a few 775 builds badly in need of BIOS mods.

My 939 rig died. Dunno what's wrong with it. Thinking about selling the parts.


----------



## zila

Talk to Scottie about the 939 rig before you do anything drastic. He'll help you trouble shoot it and see what's wrong, he knows them like the back of his hand.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Talk to Scottie about the 939 rig before you do anything drastic. He'll help you trouble shoot it and see what's wrong, he knows them like the back of his hand.


I've been troubleshooting left and right. I've given up, its all just sitting in a box now. Tried different GPU's, different CPU's, only one stick of RAM, nothing seems to make it come to life. Stupid thing is, it was working great as my bedroom HTPC. I dropped it, and now it won't work, won't even display POST. Doesn't matter what I do. Keeping in mind, that this rig was in a full mid tower case when I accidently dropped it (and it wasn't that far, plus it hit carpet).

I don't know. I've assumed the parts all work, but I'm just too busy to bother with it, since its so old. 775 parts are easy to come by cheap, and they perform much better sadly. I miss my really awesome 939 equipment though. The DFI Ultra D, Asus A8N32-SLI Deluxe, the various crossfire boards......I literally had EVERY great 939 board at one point in time. Plus I had a golden Opty 165 that pulled nearly 3.4GHz on the A8N32-SLI Deluxe, which was definitely FSB limited.

Sigh.


----------



## zila

Oh man, I am sorry to hear that. I thought it was something like a bad bios or something along those lines................but dropping it is a horse of a different color.

I know how you feel about the socket 939 stuff. I still have an Ultra-D, SLI-D, 939dual-sata2, assorted 939 chips and some nice DDR sitting in my closet. I really enjoyed them.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Oh man, I am sorry to hear that. I thought it was something like a bad bios or something along those lines................but dropping it is a horse of a different color.
> 
> I know how you feel about the socket 939 stuff. I still have an Ultra-D, SLI-D, 939dual-sata2, assorted 939 chips and some nice DDR sitting in my closet. I really enjoyed them.


Meh. This rig has been nothing but trouble for me. The Gigabyte K8N SLI Pro is a HORRIBLE motherboard to play with. It worked great at stock, even overclocked for a while (but eventually quit booting). But man, drop it just once (such a silly reason because I honestly didn't drop the entire rig very far, like 1 foot), and now it won't work.


----------



## SwishaMane

The drop may have jogged the CPU out of the socket a bit. Im sure you tried that tho. Or a wire that got grounded out somewhere?


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> I'm kinda wondering how good Mr. Scott is at BIOS mods.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know its not 939 related, but I've got a few 775 builds badly in need of BIOS mods.
> 
> My 939 rig died. Dunno what's wrong with it. Thinking about selling the parts.










sorry to hear that man.

Meanwhile I tried and failed hard trying to recover data off of my old IDE drives. None of my linux distros or tools can handle it with my limited expertise.


----------



## toughacton

Hey guys, I couldn't help myself and bought another 939 rig for a good price on ebay. If it has what I think it has CPU-wise I got a steal







Quite possibly a FX-60 (so the owner thinks it is but wouldn't check it for me) and since the stock cooler has heatpipes, its at least an FX of some stripe or a dual core. Its sitting at the post office, but I unfortunately will probably not get there until Saturday. When I do though I'll be sure to update you guys. Also means the extra board might make a nice prize for the next OC comp I throw. Its an epox ep-9npa+ultra with a couple gigs of value ram. Since its an NF4 board, it ought to be at least a decent clocker.


----------



## PolRoger

First post here... HAH!!... Just a little late to the S939 party.









Started up my old rig for the first time in quite a while yesterday to test a new kit of ram.

Running with vcore set in BIOS to ~1.3120v...11x253 = 2.783GHz.

http://s695.photobucket.com/user/PolRoger/media/Computer Parts/P1040003_zps6e89189e.jpg.html

http://s695.photobucket.com/user/PolRoger/media/AMDOpteron180AIDAstressloadcrop_zps2a51afe3.png.html


----------



## zila

Oh that's nice. You have to admit, there is just something sexy about socket 939.


----------



## toughacton

Well no luck here. Just barely got to the post office in time to get my package. Bust it open and instead of a FX-60, its a 4800 x2 Not bad, but certainly not what i was hoping it would be. Still probably worth what I paid for everything just by itself though. Who knows? Maybe it will clock well, but I kinda doubt it as its an older CCBWE 0530 toledo. I'll just have to fire her up and see.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Toledos do a good job. I've got a 3800 toledo that pulled 2.8 stable board limited.


----------



## toughacton

TADA! 4800 boots fine on my A8R32-MVP (not pictured) It is however not a great clocker. I started having issues at 2.7 with 1.45V and thats never a good sign. It does however run very cool at stock clocks/volts.
Also after looking around a bit online I may actually still have done well if i decide to resell. 4800s go for more than i remember, perhaps as much as $100, but thats probably upper limit. Still I only paid 45. for a board 2 gigs and the 4800. Not a bad deal really.


----------



## SwishaMane

Not a bad deal at all. FX-60s never OC'd as good as I thought they would. I had two, and each wouldnt do 3Ghz stable, only 2.9 at high volts. You guys have had better stable overclocking Optys and Athlons than a FX-60.

The only attractive feature was the unlocked multi which, really, isn't that big of a deal. Nicest part of that is getting a good CPU OC while keeping EVERYTHING else stock, which we know is impossible with a locked multi. Big woop.


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Not a bad deal at all. FX-60s never OC'd as good as I thought they would. I had two, and each wouldnt do 3Ghz stable, only 2.9 at high volts. You guys have had better stable overclocking Optys and Athlons than a FX-60.
> 
> The only attractive feature was the unlocked multi which, really, isn't that big of a deal. Nicest part of that is getting a good CPU OC while keeping EVERYTHING else stock, which we know is impossible with a locked multi. Big woop.


Yeah I would have had to FSB overclock the thing anyway to get my 4 gigs of RAM back up to 400 speeds. So really not a big deal. I will most likely sell this 4800 though. Its nice for folks that want higher stock clocks, but its a bad clocker. I couldn't even get 2.7 stable with 1.5V. The board and RAM I will test out later and as long as they work they should make a nice contest prize. I'm fresh out of spare PSUs for bench testing since I fixed my Aunt's old 939 system last week with a new PSU and upgrading her to a dual core. As always, glad to see folks still appreciating this great platform. I still run 2 systems at the moment and aside from a bad wireless connection on one(which is the old adapters fault), they are great for the basic games my kids play and streaming video. To the new guys in the forum, I ran a 939 OC comp last october. I plan on hosting another this year as long as people show interest. So keep an eye on this thread towards the fall if you are interested.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I think I'm just going to put my stuff up on ebay now, lol. I've been tinkering with it, and I can't get it to POST. Gotta be the board, its been finicky since day 1.


----------



## seaFs

When I read all of your results, I must be very satisfied with my X2 4400 results. 3003MHz 1,296V 45°C 2h Prime95 inplace largeFFT
Pity the A8N32 does not allow more than 1,5V under load at E6 CPUs. Both my 4400 and my Opty 180 top at 3150MHz with maximum voltage on that board. I though of getting a DFI NF4 somewhere. Anybody of you could check if the yellow boards have an ECC option in the BIOS (and maybe run with registered modules)? I'd like to keep my current memory, because it runs damn good compared to 2T unbuffered memory.


----------



## PolRoger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> When I read all of your results, I must be very satisfied with my X2 4400 results. 3003MHz 1,296V 45°C 2h Prime95 inplace largeFFT
> Pity the A8N32 does not allow more than 1,5V under load at E6 CPUs. Both my 4400 and my Opty 180 top at 3150MHz with maximum voltage on that board. I though of getting a DFI NF4 somewhere. Anybody of you could check if the yellow boards have an ECC option in the BIOS (and maybe run with registered modules)? I'd like to keep my current memory, because it runs damn good compared to 2T unbuffered memory.


That *IS* a very nice 4400 (chip sample)... 3.0 with ~1.3v load! Full bank... 2GB dimms too.









I've got a 4400 toledo that I remember as being a rather poor to average? clocker and If I remember correctly my 4600 Manchester was better than the Toledo but I think the 180 is the strongest of the three that I have. I never really pushed any of them that hard when I ran them... more mild to moderate overclocks. It is kind of strange running old ddr/dual cores again after running newer gen ddr3/quads...


----------



## seaFs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PolRoger*
> 
> First post here... HAH!!... Just a little late to the S939 party.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Started up my old rig for the first time in quite a while yesterday to test a new kit of ram.
> 
> Running with vcore set in BIOS to ~1.3120v...11x253 = 2.783GHz.


That's how you use an A8N32










Throw everything you can on it so that you can only guess it is this board


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> . To the new guys in the forum, I ran a 939 OC comp last october. I plan on hosting another this year as long as people show interest. So keep an eye on this thread towards the fall if you are interested.


You know I'm always up for the playtime.


----------



## seaFs

Already read throgh your last years compo, toughacton. But it will be hard to catch up to the good chips, I guess the winner was over 3,2GHz on water. Nothing I can reach with my current rig (but' Id like to for some benchmarking).


----------



## Hueristic

Took me hours of testing to get all the bad gear out of the pile my 939 gear had become!

One 165 with a bad mem controller
one ballistix 500mh stick with a bad chip (IIRC these are lifetime but I yanked the heatspreaders off for the reflow)
One dead 3200+ my first 939, Poor thing lived through alot, one time was running it at 145c!








Dead 939Dual-SATA2 revived many times over the years. Fond memories. Think I was the first to run a ATI X850XT (unlocked to PE) AGP and a PCI-E 8800GS for physx on one board with this one.
I gave the ballistix a reflow hoping for a bad solder joint to no avail

So I still have
Golden 3800+
165 not sure if it's the golden one or not
1 512k ballistic 500mhz
set of 1g corsair platinum's 400mhz
couple 2 gig sets of 3200 gskill
2 DFI LP's

And IIRC thats about the total ATM

I'm trying to setup a thumb drive of WinPE for mining on one board with the bad opty with some of the gskill 3200 and 2 R9 270's ATM till my risers show up. Not sure If I can get the WinPE to run under 1 gig though but I don't want to use the last 2 good chips on a mining rig. It just feels like sacrilege!


----------



## SwishaMane

I didnt compete last competition... Didnt want everyone to lose. LOL j/k


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> So I still have
> Golden 3800+


How golden?
Want to give it a rip against mine just for grins?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> How golden?
> Want to give it a rip against mine just for grins?


Sure, but it will be awhile I'm buried ATM on other things and I'll be on air.









But It sounds like fun.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> Sure, but it will be awhile I'm buried ATM on other things and I'll be on air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But It sounds like fun.


Cool. Lemme know when and what you'd like to run.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Cool. Lemme know when and what you'd like to run.


Will do and don't forget You canna change the laws of physics!


----------



## SwishaMane

Physics schmysics... burn demz chips


----------



## toughacton

Well guys, I've been tinkering with my LCBQE opty 165 and here are my 1hr stable OCCT results so far. http://valid.canardpc.com/64y4qg I'll edit with a stability screenshot when I get home. The voltage is set to 1.325 in BIOS and thats about what it runs at under load. This A8R32-MVP over-volts by quite a bit. This is definitely my best everyday running CPU. I'm not even sure I needed this much voltage, but since I had issues posting towards the 3GHZ mark I upped it to be sure that wasn't the reason. Of course I had trouble getting a HTT of 204 to post at first... this is a weird and finicky board but can obviously get the job done












Edited for stability proof pics


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Well guys, I've been tinkering with my LCBQE opty 165 and here are my 1hr stable OCCT results so far. http://valid.canardpc.com/64y4qg I'll edit with a stability screenshot when I get home. The voltage is set to 1.325 in BIOS and thats about what it runs at under load. This A8R32-MVP over-volts by quite a bit. This is definitely my best everyday running CPU. I'm not even sure I needed this much voltage, but since I had issues posting towards the 3GHZ mark I upped it to be sure that wasn't the reason. Of course I had trouble getting a HTT of 204 to post at first... this is a weird and finicky board but can obviously get the job done


Looks good


----------



## toughacton

maybe i spoke too soon







http://valid.canardpc.com/u6f04e Got another 50mhz at the same volts 
although it did crash the first time i ran occt when i forgot to turn off the screensaver and tried to wake it back up. not sure if it would be prime stable. next test i guess.


----------



## SwishaMane

Wow, last night, an old client of mine just sold me back my old DFI Ultra-D, 2x1GB Mushkin Redline, and the dual core 3800+. I'm cleaning it up, putting new coolers on it (CPU and NB), and gonna test her out. Might even put it for sale here soon. w00t w00t

It was NOT abused at all. Dude just ran it normal how I set it. CPU MIGHT have been at 2.2, and everything else was just stock or slightly bumped.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> maybe i spoke too soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/u6f04e Got another 50mhz at the same volts
> although it did crash the first time i ran occt when i forgot to turn off the screensaver and tried to wake it back up. not sure if it would be prime stable. next test i guess.


To be honest man, you have to be careful throwing burn test after burn test through a 939 CPU. Their memory controllers are weak, and degrade pretty quick with stress testing. I'd leave it alone, unless it doesn't matter, then my all means, proceed.


----------



## seaFs

toughacton, what cooling are you using? Delidded CPU? 38°C full load core temps are very good. Beats my similarly clocked X2 by 6°C that runs with less voltage.


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> toughacton, what cooling are you using? Delidded CPU? 38°C full load core temps are very good. Beats my similarly clocked X2 by 6°C that runs with less voltage.


ACtually it says 58C load temps.







i wish it were 38. its just a single 120 fan tower cooler with clip on mounting from masscool. nothing fancy, but idle it keeps it at 30C and with normal non stress test load its more like 50 tops.
Quote:


> To be honest man, you have to be careful throwing burn test after burn test through a 939 CPU. Their memory controllers are weak, and degrade pretty quick with stress testing. I'd leave it alone, unless it doesn't matter, then my all means, proceed.


I don't run anything for very long. I only ever run OCCT on a chip for the full hour when i reach my target speed and almost never run prime 95 if it makes the 1hour pass. Usually i only run for 5 or 10 mins just to make sure i haven't hit a wall. I was unaware that you could damage the IMC though, just thought that the heat and stress would lead to general degredation if done for too long. I don't tend to run high volts or really long prime runs. For instance my for my 3.0GHz stability i called 2 hours p95 good enough and only really ran it because 3GHz is that magic stable goal. 3.05 despite passing occt didn't make it far in prime. so i just backed it down and have left it.
I think this chip's memory controller is ok though. I AM running 4 gigs at over 400 speed and it seems to be fine.







(though it could be the mem controller holding back any higher OC)







I have plenty of gear to fiddle around with if I do manage to break something though. I'm running a 4200 x2 and this 165 now at 2.95 and 3GHz respectively. I also have a 170 and another 165 that both do 2.9 with at or very near stock volts as well. plus theres the 180 thats a little hotter and more voltage hungry, a 3200 single, an opty 148 single, a 3800 single... ummm i think im missing one maybe. I did sell the 4800 and made a small profit :and got to keep the board and RAM









Also I'd love me some redlines if the price was right







I've only got a pair of OCZ gold that does 500 at the moment, but it doesn't have very good timings.


----------



## seaFs

Uuhm, my bad. But 58°C is pretty much OK for a single fan solution, I guess. I've read that there is somehow a "magic" 60°C barrier, above which the Toledos run much more unstable.

I also didn't notice any problems with the memory controller. It's tricky to configure but there was no degradation in stability over the years. I run my 4400 since 2009 with no interruptions. Even better, over time the CPU needed less voltage to run at 2,8GHz. With another mainbaord (switched from K8N Neo2 to A8N32) I reached even higher clock speeds with less volts. Mem controller was almost always populated with 4x1GB. I think I even used the same timings as you did, 2.5-3-3-5 2T @ ~430MHz.
Maybe you can squeeze a bit more out of it with another RAM divider and the clock skew settings. This helped me stabilize a lot and if my CPU wouldn't be unstable at 3,2GHZ I guess I could reach DDR533 CL3 with all 4 slots populated. This "crappy" server DIMMs do quite good. 270MHz was the max I tried with a single module


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Uuhm, my bad. But 58°C is pretty much OK for a single fan solution, I guess. I've read that there is somehow a "magic" 60°C barrier, above which the Toledos run much more unstable.
> 
> I also didn't notice any problems with the memory controller. It's tricky to configure but there was no degradation in stability over the years. I run my 4400 since 2009 with no interruptions. Even better, over time the CPU needed less voltage to run at 2,8GHz. With another mainbaord (switched from K8N Neo2 to A8N32) I reached even higher clock speeds with less volts. Mem controller was almost always populated with 4x1GB. I think I even used the same timings as you did, 2.5-3-3-5 2T @ ~430MHz.
> Maybe you can squeeze a bit more out of it with another RAM divider and the clock skew settings. This helped me stabilize a lot and if my CPU wouldn't be unstable at 3,2GHZ I guess I could reach DDR533 CL3 with all 4 slots populated. This "crappy" server DIMMs do quite good. 270MHz was the max I tried with a single module


Yeah drive strength/clock skew is the one thing I haven't played with much. I usually just set it to auto. I do however mess with the async latency and preamble in order to clock up this high though. If i don't, I think the limit is around 270HTT I'm pretty sure I'm close to the limit with these sticks at these timings an voltage though from previous RAM testing I did on them. And the temps certainly do make a difference for the stability. I can get my toledos stable at more than 60C, but the stable speed at that temp is lower than it would be otherwise. Plus thats just getting a little close to the thermal limit for these CPUS and i want to keep mine trucking for as long as they will give me







I wish I could add another fan, but since my HS dumps air to the top of the case, it goes straight into my PSU and its already pretty warm with one fan blowing hot air from the CPU up there.


----------



## seaFs

I noticed, that neither Prim95 blend nor memtest86+ found errors in my system, but games and FreeArc (!) crashed fast. I can't run the memory 1:1 with the ref clock. Maximum ist around 240MHz, which runs good with CL2.5. To get higher I had to go back to a 183 RAM divider, resutling in 166MHz xxxµs refresh time. The Tref setting in Bios almost had no impact on stability, so I chose 15.6µs for some better bandwidth scores. Pity that there is not this fancy Tref setting you can find on DFI boards.

The best clock skew settings were a pain to find out. I used a pretty big (>3GB) FreeArc archive and unpacked it to test the memory stability. With the Infineon CF-5 chips I ended up with Advance 300ps for both channels, whereas the bios set this stuff to Delay 300ps automatically. In case you are using OCZ EL PE 400 2048 kits (2-3-2-5 2.8V), they use Infineon BE-5 or CE-5, which should have nearly the same characteristics.


----------



## SwishaMane

What do you guys think a DFI Ultra-D (aftermarket NB cooler), 3800+ x2 (stock opty cooler), & 2x1GB Mushkin Redline PC4000 combo is worth? I cleaned everything up REAL good, and will be testing it tomorrow. I was thinking like $75 +s/h. Its a dang good combo.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> What do you guys think a DFI Ultra-D (aftermarket NB cooler), 3800+ x2 (stock opty cooler), & 2x1GB Mushkin Redline PC4000 combo is worth? I cleaned everything up REAL good, and will be testing it tomorrow. I was thinking like $75 +s/h. Its a dang good combo.


It's a very good price for the combo.


----------



## seaFs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> I cleaned everything up REAL good, and will be testing it tomorrow.


Would you check for an ECC RAM option in the bios for me, please? I couldn't find anything about this in the net. Just some short user report, that the board would not post with some unknown kind of Samsung ECC memory, but I do hope this might just be a board incompatibility.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Would you check for an ECC RAM option in the bios for me, please? I couldn't find anything about this in the net. Just some short user report, that the board would not post with some unknown kind of Samsung ECC memory, but I do hope this might just be a board incompatibility.


No ECC RAM options that I seen. ECC RAM might still work.

My combo works good. The redlines even booted DDR500 off the bat by choosing 250 FSB divider (5:4) from menu, not setting it 1:1 with 250 FSB. I also bumped them to 2.8v just in case, but it worked. 3-3-2-8.


----------



## Kryton

Looks good Swish, I know it should be worth what you're asking for it.
I woudn't mind getting another good 939 setup BUT no $$ to spare for anything in the forseeable future.









I have enough to keep me going for sometime to come at least.


----------



## SwishaMane

Well I got her on fleabay, just search DFI Ultra-D, you guys know...


----------



## toughacton

Hey guys! Speaking of fleabay, I was on there checking out swishas stuff and just got to browsing. I found an outfit selling these ASRock 939A785GMH/128M Socket 939 Motherboard W/ onboard Vid & HDMI -4DDR Slots. I know a while back some folks were looking for these as maybe an HTPC option but since they never really made it to the US you couldn't find em. These look to be refurbs with no IO shield for $60 shipped. If i didn't already have better options for HTPC I'd snag one. Heck I'm still tempted due to the fact that as far as I know this is the only 939 made with this chipset. PLus its got the HD 4200 on board with HDMI and PCIe 2.0









Also I couldn't help myself and tried to wrangle 3.1 stable http://valid.canardpc.com/k2iqiz


Takes about 1.42V under load to get this. So I'll probably just go with 3.0 for everyday, but I'm REALLY impressed with this chip. Wonder what it would do under water?


----------



## seaFs

Delid it and go for 2x4GB reg DDR @ +260MHz CR1








I guess I need to beat you at 3,1GHz with a lower voltage. At least your result is a good reason for me to try it out what my chip can do^^

[edit] I meant 2x2GB DDR. 4GB DIMMs are stacked RAM, which must be very hard to OC, because you can't cool them properly.
Unfortunately we will never know how awesome 8GB @ >270MHz will be, because there is no mainboard that supports all the features needed (ECC enable/disable + tRef in cycles).
About your A8R32: AFAIR all Asus A8 mainboards have ECC support, even the low-budget A8N-E has.


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Delid it and go for 2x4GB reg DDR @ +260MHz CR1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I need to beat you at 3,1GHz with a lower voltage. At least your result is a good reason for me to try it out what my chip can do^^


Well I'm comfortable delidding as I've managed to practice on a few cpus with missing pins, but all my heatsinks are the direct contact heat pipe types that half the heat pipes would go unused with a delidded chip. Not sure if it would make a huge temp difference or not. I'd have to look around for something else with a solid base. Also, does the A8R32-mvp take ECC RAM? I was pretty sure only a select few 939 retail boards would use it. But since your board is just the SLI version of mine, it might work. Of course then I'd have to get a 64 bit OS for it









And I say see what it can do. You'll hit a wall at which you can boot, but won't be stable without more voltage pretty soon, but I'm willing to bet you can do 3.1 as well


----------



## nategr8ns

Nice overclock you got there!

I'm in the same boat. That board would be sweet, but I already have an HD 4200 media center. Oh well, hopefully we continue to see these pop up every once in a while...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Hey guys! Speaking of fleabay, I was on there checking out swishas stuff and just got to browsing. I found an outfit selling these ASRock 939A785GMH/128M Socket 939 Motherboard W/ onboard Vid & HDMI -4DDR Slots. I know a while back some folks were looking for these as maybe an HTPC option but since they never really made it to the US you couldn't find em. These look to be refurbs with no IO shield for $60 shipped. If i didn't already have better options for HTPC I'd snag one. Heck I'm still tempted due to the fact that as far as I know this is the only 939 made with this chipset. PLus its got the HD 4200 on board with HDMI and PCIe 2.0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Takes about 1.42V under load to get this. So I'll probably just go with 3.0 for everyday, but I'm REALLY impressed with this chip. Wonder what it would do under water?


----------



## seaFs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Well I'm comfortable delidding as I've managed to practice on a few cpus with missing pins, but all my heatsinks are the direct contact heat pipe types that half the heat pipes would go unused with a delidded chip. Not sure if it would make a huge temp difference or not. I'd have to look around for something else with a solid base. Also, does the A8R32-mvp take ECC RAM? I was pretty sure only a select few 939 retail boards would use it. But since your board is just the SLI version of mine, it might work. Of course then I'd have to get a 64 bit OS for it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I say see what it can do. You'll hit a wall at which you can boot, but won't be stable without more voltage pretty soon, but I'm willing to bet you can do 3.1 as well


I've delidded 4 CPUs (Northwood, Venice, Toledo, Denmark) till now and all work good. Make sure to have a picture of a naked CPU to know how far you can go. The SMDs near the die are the critical parts. Tutorials will guide you pretty well. Even if you only have direct touch coolers, you can get temps a bit down by exchanging the TIM between die and IHS. Plus it grants you higher pressure, because the rubber "spacing" between IHS and organic plate is gone.

Delidding my CPU did give me slightly better overclocks, but foremost lower voltage and temps, making it all a bit more efficient. I've reached the wall you are talking about with both my X2 and Opty, so I guess the board is somehow the limiting factor. Both top at around 3150MHz, but with different voltages. Maybe it's also my PSU that can't provide more current to the board. 3200MHz would boot, and it also ran some tests, but wuld ultimatley freeze the system with 3DMark06 CPU test 1. Prime95 did it's job for... just a few seconds








But the memory performance was awesome, easily cracking 8GB/s MEM and 100GB/s L1 in Aida64.







]


----------



## tipo33

I've decided to try my hand at overclocking, (I'm generally a silencer and *nix guy) and I picked up a FX-60, Abit at8 32x, 2 gigs of DDR, and an aftermarket cooler of some sort for €70. I was wondering in terms of PSU's do I need one that has a substantial +5v rail? or are these modern enough to just use 12v? Thank you, and please don't be harsh, brand new to overcloking.


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipo33*
> 
> I've decided to try my hand at overclocking, (I'm generally a silencer and *nix guy) and I picked up a FX-60, Abit at8 32x, 2 gigs of DDR, and an aftermarket cooler of some sort for €70. I was wondering in terms of PSU's do I need one that has a substantial +5v rail? or are these modern enough to just use 12v? Thank you, and please don't be harsh, brand new to overcloking.


These are new enough that the 12V is the most important







You have picked IMHO one of the best possible sockets to overclock. You will learn a ton I'm sure. I and the others here in this thread will be more than happy to help get you started. Thats a nice set up btw. I'm running the Abit Fata1ty board as one of my HTPC rigs and its very capable. I love all the fan options. I was a pain to get to post at first though. MAke sure you have a good battery in it as that was what kept mine from posting at first.

Also if you're still around in October, I'm planning on running another competition of some kind.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Also if you're still around in October, I'm planning on running another competition of some kind.


And if I'm still around I'll be there too.


----------



## seaFs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Takes about 1.42V under load to get this. So I'll probably just go with 3.0 for everyday, but I'm REALLY impressed with this chip. Wonder what it would do under water?


3105MHz @ 1,392V full load. at least it passed 30 minutes Prime95 inplace







Setting was VID 1.225V + 0.2 overvolt.
Picture coming later


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> 3105MHz @ 1,392V full load. at least it passed 30 minutes Prime95 inplace
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Setting was VID 1.225V + 0.2 overvolt.
> Picture coming later


thats just a tad less than mine under load







is that cpu delidded? Also have you found that using the overvolt works better or worse? At the same cpu volts is it more stable than say just running 1.4V without overvolt? Plus are you still running all 4 sticks? I know mine are right at the bleeding edge of stability on their own and it could be why I'm needing a bit more volts to stabilize, but hey YMMV. Nice work







You'll be ready for any comp we have!


----------



## seaFs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> thats just a tad less than mine under load
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is that cpu delidded? Also have you found that using the overvolt works better or worse? At the same cpu volts is it more stable than say just running 1.4V without overvolt? Plus are you still running all 4 sticks? I know mine are right at the bleeding edge of stability on their own and it could be why I'm needing a bit more volts to stabilize, but hey YMMV. Nice work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You'll be ready for any comp we have!


With all 4 slots, but I use registered RAM, so the memory controller has not much to do. CPU is delidded with an IFX-14 on it and two fans pulling the air out. Overvolt works better on the A8N32, because it uses all 8 phases. Couldn't get it stable with VID 1.400V, it dropped down to 1.376V and made Prime stop after 10 minutes. VID 1.225 + 0.2 overvolt gets me a bit more, although I did not tst with 1.425V in the bios, I set everything with crystal CPU ID in windows. The DIMMs are not at the end, the can do ~270MHz, but the CPU can't go much further.


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> MY 3dmark is horrible. I'm running a HD6450 (which i think is 64bit). I think i get at best around 6000 marks. Really need to get a 8800 or 9800 on the cheap and see if i can't get past the 10K mark. (also I never did get around to turning off extra processes, so that may have been why the scores were low). Also I got a sub 29 sec pi score, like 28.39 or something at 3.05GHz. I'll edit this post with a screenie later. Lovin this pc4000 ballistix though. Highest I've done stable at the 3-4-4-8 timings has been DDR 584. I've tried adding volts up to 3.2 but still lots of errors in memtest at ddr 600. I might have to loosen up the timings more to get there, and a CAS of 4 is unappealing. I tried 3.5 and had instant fail and needed to reset CMOS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a fun note I bought a "non-working" SLI-DR board on the cheap from ebay. I figure I'll either get it running or I'll use it to replace the cap thats going bad on my working one. It also came with 2x512 OCZ plats 2-2-2-5 timings and a 3500. (both of which are claimed tested and working. So even if the board truly is dead, I'll have something to show for my purchase.


Sooooo a long time ago in a galaxy far far away there was this silly newb 939 overclocker who bought a probably junk sli-dr with some RAM and a single core. Board never would boot and the ram and cpu were tested to work then gently set aside and forgotten. I'm digging through my things today and find this OCZ PC3200RAM 2x512 plats. Oh you know those Rev 2 ver 1.0 TCCDs







I should have been benching the snot out of these! They even have the original packaging! REALLY clean and nice. I almost want to take a pic and post it... Definitely giving these a spin once I get a dedicated bench set up.

Right now I just steal my kids "crazily and unknowingly overclocked" rigs to fiddle with


----------



## seaFs

I had a look at your 3DMark06 results. So many scores above 11k. I have problems getting over 10k5 with my rig. Is it really WinXP 32 making it faster compared to Win7 64? If thats the case I really have to install XP again just for some higher points


----------



## tipo33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> These are new enough that the 12V is the most important
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You have picked IMHO one of the best possible sockets to overclock. You will learn a ton I'm sure. I and the others here in this thread will be more than happy to help get you started. Thats a nice set up btw. I'm running the Abit Fata1ty board as one of my HTPC rigs and its very capable. I love all the fan options. I was a pain to get to post at first though. MAke sure you have a good battery in it as that was what kept mine from posting at first.
> 
> Also if you're still around in October, I'm planning on running another competition of some kind.


Thank you, I will go ahead and get to PSU shopping then, although I still have an AX1200 from an old build, so I may just utilise that. I have been on OCN for quite a while, I just lurk mostly


----------



## pioneerisloud

Tempted to get that hd4200 board for my toledo and 4gb ddr400. Hmmm. Not sure if I want to spend the 60 bucks though lol.


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Tempted to get that hd4200 board for my toledo and 4gb ddr400. Hmmm. Not sure if I want to spend the 60 bucks though lol.


I think the same outfit also had another very similar board for $54 as well. Not sure of the difference other than the numbers 785 vs 790. chipset difference? I know it is tempting though, I'd love to be using a mATX instead of the full one I have now on the HTPC


----------



## StormX2

Got some stuff that might let me revive a 3800x2 machine

pulled a really ugly Round ASUS Cooler with 939 clamp and HeatPipes, with the Fan int he middle of the unit. not sure if any good.

Also some DDR 400 1 GB Sticks.

D32PB1GJ x 2
and
D32PB1G25 x2

Anyone know much about these 2 sticks?


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> Got some stuff that might let me revive a 3800x2 machine
> 
> pulled a really ugly Round ASUS Cooler with 939 clamp and HeatPipes, with the Fan int he middle of the unit. not sure if any good.
> 
> Also some DDR 400 1 GB Sticks.
> 
> D32PB1GJ x 2
> and
> D32PB1G25 x2
> 
> Anyone know much about these 2 sticks?


Supertalent is OK generic RAM. I've used one of the first sticks you listed in the past and it never failed on me, though that was before I was into overclocking. Other than that the first ones are CAS 3 and the second set are 2.5 I'd assume out of the two that those would be better if you feel like RAM overclocking, though I wouldn't expect much. MAybe 450 DDR. If you are wondering what kind of ICs they have, well I don't know for sure, but as far as I know they never made anything highend.

You need to get a 939 up and running for october







I'll most likely be putting up that nf4 EPOX board I got as a prize. It's a little wonky with the placement of things, but I had no problems getting it to 270HTT. Which is the best my 3200 would do. I never did get the onboard sound to work, though i was messing around with a win xp 64bit and probably just had the wrong driver installed.


----------



## vladv

I've decided to try my hand at overclocking after lurking around this great forum for a while , and I picked up a AMD FX-60 & DFI LanParty NF4 SLI-DR Expert kit , and an aftermarket cooler of some sort for € 150. I've read almost all the reviews about this excellent enthusiast motherboard and before I even start thinking to hit the power switch I must ask you OC masters about two very important questions about my future setup:which are the best RAM brands to use with my board without any problems whatsoever ( I already have some generic DDR1 KINGSTON and KINGMAX 1GB kits around ) and which power supply will work best between these two brands Sirtec - High Power HPC-430-P12S and Tagan TG600-U25 model?


----------



## SwishaMane

Ive had GREAT luck with Corsair XMS Platinums over the years, and have gone between MANY sets of them. The CAS 2 (2-2-2-6) are beast mode. I run 2x1GB on my older DFI Ultra Infinity 939 board, and they are at ddr500 at 3-3-3-8, 2.8v. Not the BEST, but VERY reliable stable and fast, still. I think its a 300+ FSB x9.5 multi config. Not sure off memory. Not bad at all.


----------



## tipo33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vladv*
> 
> Sirtec - High Power HPC-430-P12S and Tagan TG600-U25 model


Neither IMHO. A power supply is not a place to save money, a cheap power supply will die, and take the rest of your system with it. Buy from a reliable brand: Seasonic, Antec, Corsair, etc...


----------



## Abyssmal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipo33*
> 
> Neither IMHO. A power supply is not a place to save money, a cheap power supply will die, and take the rest of your system with it. Buy from a reliable brand: Seasonic, Antec, Corsair, etc...


Sirtec is good. Was OEM of Chieftec and others for years. Also the tagan can handle this setup no prob.


----------



## zila

All this talk of socket 939 made me bring my Ultra-D out of the closet.

Ultra-D
Opty 180
2x512 Crucial Ballistix
BFG Nvidia 6800GT
Modded Thermaltake 2.0 Performer
Antec Earthwatts 650W
WD Caviar SE 80Gig IDE HDD
LiteOn SOHW-1633S

Socket 939 is my favorite.


----------



## SwishaMane

Nice!


----------



## Mr.Scott

Nice Eddie.


----------



## zila

Thanks fellas. Luv my Ultra-D.


----------



## vladv

Another legendary socket 939 motherboard.


----------



## Hueristic

All you guys putting up 3G is a beautiful thing.









Running 4 GPU's had 5 once (PCI-E to PCI converter board) but drivers are really wonky and having a problem getting damn gpu's to stop dieing (my mining ones). This pic is with spare test gpu's. Since this pic I've modded power into the cables to lessen draw on the board.





Frame.


----------



## Kryton

Good seeing you Hue!

You should clean up the GPU clutter in that pic by sending one or two of them here so I can torture them properly.









BTW have you tried baking the GPU's that died?
Might bring them back or at least one or two of them.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> Good seeing you Hue!
> 
> You should clean up the GPU clutter in that pic by sending one or two of them here so I can torture them properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW have you tried baking the GPU's that died?
> Might bring them back or at least one or two of them.


On of my favorite passtimes!







actually I use a heat gun now, wrap the chip with molding clay and torch it up and pull off the dried clay and bam bga reflowed.









Had to do that to my dualsataII (loved that board) a few times to get my pci-e lanes back. Lol

These 2 dead 270's were less than a month old.


----------



## SwishaMane

Do you do even heat flow with the gun, or just drill right into the chip? Might be warping the boards if you dont spread heat evenly.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Do you do even heat flow with the gun, or just drill right into the chip? Might be warping the boards if you dont spread heat evenly.


*
Constant motion and ir temp wand.


----------



## seaFs

So PCIe 2.1 (and later) cards really work in PCIe 1.0/1.1 slots? I've read numerous posts about HD5770 not running with 939 at all because of power saving features. Damn, I thought the HD4890 was the fastest and most useful card for this socket


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> So PCIe 2.1 (and later) cards really work in PCIe 1.0/1.1 slots? I've read numerous posts about HD5770 not running with 939 at all because of power saving features.


I used my Radeon 7770 in an ASUS A8S-X board with Athlon 64 3200+ Venice when testing if it works, and that's a PCI-E 3.0 card, worked like a charm. Now using a Radeon 5570 in there which is PCI-E 2.1 of same generation as that 5770, also works like a charm. No problems running games either, Morrowind ran smooth as a baby's bottom until a bunch of Cliff Racers decided to tear me apart. I hate the board though, Debian doesn't have sound over on-board audio, those SiS chipsets are getting on my nerves.

Anyway, PCI-E 2.x/3.x cards obviously work in PCI-E 1.x slots, I tried it and it worked like a dream. Might be that some of those old BIOS-es can't recognize a newer card as a VGA output device but I'm yet to see that happen on any of the old machines I've been playing with.


----------



## Hueristic

Yeah Sis is the gutter chipset manufacturer. I wouldn't build a machine with a SIS chipset if you tortured me. The machine would torture me longer than you would have the patience for!


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> Yeah Sis is the gutter chipset manufacturer. I wouldn't build a machine with a SIS chipset if you tortured me. The machine would torture me longer than you would have the patience for!


If the one I had is any indication, I agree wholeheartedly SIS? nooo thanks...lol


----------



## Werne

Heh, been hating a SiS board for years while using my old 3200+ and unfortunately got another for it since it was the only board I could find that supports that Athlon. Bloody chipsets were always screaming about failed overclocks on stock machines and the boards took a lifetime to post, ran hot as hell too. And the worst thing is that I can't even use boards with SiS chipsets for a budget HTPC, the on-board sound doesn't work with Linux so it needs a sound card or having audio routed over graphics card HDMI.

I also noticed the boards with SiS 756 Northbridge are useless for overclocking, doesn't matter how much you up the FSB on this thing the CPU just doesn't clock up. The best I can get out of my A8S-X is 2289MHz on the CPU (10x multi, 229MHz FSB), going over 229 actually makes the CPU clock go in reverse.









But there's a good thing about the mobo, BIOS on A8S-X works when using a USB wireless keyboard, I've seen brand new boards that have problems with USB keyboards, especially wireless ones. It's the one and only good thing I can say about it though, the rest of the board is just crap.


----------



## zila

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> So PCIe 2.1 (and later) cards really work in PCIe 1.0/1.1 slots? I've read numerous posts about HD5770 not running with 939 at all because of power saving features. Damn, I thought the HD4890 was the fastest and most useful card for this socket


I've used an HD4890 in my Ultra-D and it works great.


----------



## SwishaMane

The newest GPU I ever used was a GTX 570 in my Ultra Infinity board. Worked great! About as fast as a 8800gtx, on a s939, lol... In my opinion, nVidias GTX 260 - 285 are the fastest GPUs you can get on 939 before the cpu and mobo are the bottleneck. Anything newer is just a waste, like a gtx570, lol


----------



## seaFs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> I've used an HD4890 in my Ultra-D and it works great.


Yep, me, too, on an A8N32. I thought DX11 wasn't possible with 939, so the choice was between HD4800 and GTX200. nVidia is bad for this socket, because the drivers have very poor performance with dual cores compared with the AMD ones. The CPU limit is the thing to look for.
Before the 4890 I had a 4850 Golden Sample, which is a clearly memory bandwidth limited card. The 4890 made some noticible inprovements in frame rates. It is now underclocked to 600MHz GPU / 800MHz Mem, because utilization never exceeds 70%. The X2 at 3GHz can't bring more frames, especially with my widescreen monitor. Really, everything in my rig is bottlenecked by the CPU


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> The newest GPU I ever used was a GTX 570 in my Ultra Infinity board. Worked great! About as fast as a 8800gtx, on a s939, lol... In my opinion, nVidias GTX 260 - 285 are the fastest GPUs you can get on 939 before the cpu and mobo are the bottleneck. Anything newer is just a waste, like a gtx570, lol


You're pretty much right on. 260 to 460 is about the range.


----------



## StormX2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Ive had GREAT luck with Corsair XMS Platinums over the years, and have gone between MANY sets of them. The CAS 2 (2-2-2-6) are beast mode. I run 2x1GB on my older DFI Ultra Infinity 939 board, and they are at ddr500 at 3-3-3-8, 2.8v. Not the BEST, but VERY reliable stable and fast, still. I think its a 300+ FSB x9.5 multi config. Not sure off memory. Not bad at all.


reminds me of my old 2 x 1 GB Corsair TwinX Plats.

I was able to hold some really low timings at 460mhz with the board at 300fsb


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> reminds me of my old 2 x 1 GB Corsair TwinX Plats.
> 
> I was able to hold some really low timings at 460mhz with the board at 300fsb


Thats what they are. Thats what I have in my s939 setup. 310FSB at 333 divider gives me 246Mhz RAM at 3-3-3-8, 2.8v, I think. Rock solid.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Don't remind me of my Corsair XMS DDR400. Mmmmm. DDR 575 at 3-3-3-8-1T per 2x1GB kit. One kit did DDR600.







Both kits combined (4GB on 939........) did DDR480 or DDR490 at 2.5-3-3-6.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> One kit did DDR600.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both kits combined (4GB on 939........) did DDR480 or DDR490 at 2.5-3-3-6.


That sounds like the set I currently have, Patriot PC 4000 sticks that did DDR600 2.5-3-3-7 1T and have actually gone a tad higher before.









I also have a set of PC 4800 sticks but I've never been able to get them up like that although they should according to their rating. I also have a set of Corsair XMS PC 4400's that clock about the same as my Pats do.


----------



## SwishaMane

So whats up in the world of s939? I know I'm not messing with mine anymore, got it where she needs to be and NOT touching it, well, til next OC competition... he he heeeeeeeeeeeee


----------



## toughacton

I'm in the same boat really. I thought i was getting some more random 939 handmedowns but the Dell turned out to have AM2 in it and not 939.







At any rate I think I've squeezed about the best I can for everyday use out of my two running 939 systems. Still trucking away. I'm as of now still planning something for October again, so keep your eyes open for that later this year.


----------



## SwishaMane

Ill be singing... "When the weather outside is frightful, but my s939 so delightful... When the weather outside is cold, OC more, OC more, OC more..."

Doesn't rhyme much, but hell... lol


----------



## Hueristic

I've got 4 gpu's mining fine on one dfi lanparty but the other one will only recognize 3 for some reason. And the real weird thing is I can get 5 cards recognized with a pci to pci-e convertor board if one is a different manufacturer. Really strange! Also If I have the card on the pci slot running then the miner will not hash on it even though it is recognized.


----------



## SwishaMane

Sick man. Weird issues tho.Are that board and hardware capable of running 4 cards like that?


----------



## Mr.Scott

Check for shared IRQ's.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Sick man. Weird issues tho.Are that board and hardware capable of running 4 cards like that?


I'd love to get it running with 7 !









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Check for shared IRQ's.


Holy *** It's been so long I didn't even think of that, but I doubt that is it as the driver installed fine with only 3 cards in the pci-e and the card isn't even recognized when the 4 pci-e lanes are full. Maybe a bios limitation?

Next time I have it ripped down I'll try to get down and dirty at address and irq level. Funny I couldn't even find how to look at devices in win7 in tree view. Hate M$

I'm pretty weak with linux but that was going to be my next attempt. (bamt image).


----------



## nategr8ns

I wonder if its a hardware thing having all the graphics cards talking over the first 1/4 of the PCI-e lanes. Not sure how that communication network works, but if you can get your hands on some full slot (x16) extensions it would be easy to check.


----------



## ozlay

i have a A8N32-sli and was wondering are they worth anything these days because i have the option of getting another for free comes with an FX55 ?

i have 3 extra motherboard do i need a 4th one?


----------



## seaFs

Well , I'd need another one, but it's not worth shipping it to Europe
BUT you could do me a favour. There are four tin spots under the socket retention module. Bore holes through them and look if the board still runs.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*
> 
> I wonder if its a hardware thing having all the graphics cards talking over the first 1/4 of the PCI-e lanes. Not sure how that communication network works, but if you can get your hands on some full slot (x16) extensions it would be easy to check.


I did try it with 2 of the cards directly in the X16 slots (drop to 2 X8 IIRC) though and that had no effect. The other 2 slots are 1x and 4x.


----------



## vladv

Here's my OC'd 3700 Sandy,stock cooler,with CPU-Z validation http://valid.x86.fr/sm0elk.


----------



## Werne

Hmm, does anyone know what the highest voltage is for 90nm Venice? I keep my 3200+ at 1.550V in BIOS which allows me to get to 2.6GHz, but I'm not sure how much this thing can take. I got lots of headroom temperature-wise, CPU is at 46C max under load using a stock FX 8320 cooler with a 2400RPM 80mm fan tied to it with a shoe lace (don't ask), VRMs and chipsets are also nice and cool with air blowing over them.

Next step in BIOS is 1.650V, hence the question. I'm pretty sure it wouldn't blow up on 1.65, at least not right away, but I'm checking just to be sure.


----------



## Mr.Scott

I've had Venice chips over 1.8v, not on air though. I'd recommend no more than 1.6v for 24/7 usage on air. Let the temps be your guide.


----------



## SwishaMane

I vModded a mobo to push 1.81vCore to a s939 chip. CRAZY! 80C, lol


----------



## Kryton

I socked over 1.9v's into a s939 before with my Expert...
You know it wasn't on air when that happened.

Dang chip shoudn't have been such a poor/stubborn clocker and it ticked me off so I cranked the voltage to it....
I was like "Die you miserable piece of %^*& of a 939!!!"









Nope - It didn't die.


----------



## Werne

Well, I decided to pop in the other A64 I had around (3000+ Venice) to see if that one overclocks better before I go pumping 1.650V+ into the 3200, and it reached 2.65GHz at 1.5V. So I'll be chugging with this one, I still lack the cooling to go all 1.650V on the bloody things.

Speaking of cooling, I have a weird problem with this thing. I tried swapping the 125W AMD stock cooler that was on that thing with an Arctic Freezer 13 I had lying around and things are now worse. The CPU heats up to 76C within a minute of me looking at the temp in BIOS and does a thermal shutdown, and that's on stock CPU settings, even undervolted to 1.150V it shuts down, only slower. I re-seated it like 15 times by now, spent a whole tube of MX-2 just re-seating the thing. This thing used to keep an overclocked 8320 cool, yet an A64 makes it flop, anyone know what's up with that?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> I socked over 1.9v's into a s939 before with my Expert...
> You know it wasn't on air when that happened.
> 
> Dang chip shoudn't have been such a poor/stubborn clocker and it ticked me off so I cranked the voltage to it....
> I was like "Die you miserable piece of %^*& of a 939!!!"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nope - It didn't die.


I once pushed 1.8V through that 3200+ of mine when aiming for 3GHz (didn't reach 3G's) and it failed to die, bought a new machine so I wanted to make the bloody thing die in a blaze of glory, and instead the board blew up after a few hours. That was on air though, used a Phenom II cooler with a 4000RPM 80mm Delta on it, that thing was screaming fury but it kept the CPU cool enough. For 24/7 it used to run 1.550V and 2.53GHz, it can boot at 2.6GHz on 1.550V but it ain't very stable.

I wanted to use the ol' 3200+ for a HTPC so I didn't want to pump it full of volts. But now that I have a better overclocker, I'm thinking of putting it back in and trying how many volts can the board pump towards the CPU, I just need to find my old Delta!


----------



## seaFs

@Werne: Your temperature issue might be a pressure problem. But the AMD stock coolers (which one? without heatpipes?) are designed for 89W TDP, while the FX cooler ist for 125W TDP. That's also a big difference, and the stock coolers are not really good for overclocking, independent of the installed fan. Kudos to your ears.









In the next days a "new" used PSU will arrive. BQ E8 500W will replace my aged Tagan 530W PSU. I encounterred several power offs when in idle and cold boot issues, even at stock speed. I guess the Tagan has passed its best age. Maybe it is also holding me back when overclocking. I' was never able to give the CPU more than 1.58V full load, but I guess the CPU could use a bit more to get 3.2GHz stable (at least for normal use, not prime)


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> @Werne: Your temperature issue might be a pressure problem. But the AMD stock coolers (which one? without heatpipes?) are designed for 89W TDP, while the FX cooler ist for 125W TDP. That's also a big difference, and the stock coolers are not really good for overclocking, independent of the installed fan. Kudos to your ears.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the next days a "new" used PSU will arrive. BQ E8 500W will replace my aged Tagan 530W PSU. I encounterred several power offs when in idle and cold boot issues, even at stock speed. I guess the Tagan has passed its best age. Maybe it is also holding me back when overclocking. I' was never able to give the CPU more than 1.58V full load, but I guess the CPU could use a bit more to get 3.2GHz stable (at least for normal use, not prime)


I'm using the stock cooler that came with my 8320 with a ghetto-rigged 2400RPM Arctic F8, A64 stock cooler got sold the moment I pulled it out of the box. The FX one works perfectly fine for 2.65GHz at 1.5V, keeps the CPU at 47-49C, but using the Freezer 13 makes the CPU overheat within a minute.









I guess it could be the pressure (or lack thereof), Freezers generally have flimsy mounts that tend to go bonkers. Ah well, I fished it out of a dumpster anyway, and a friend of mine asked me to trade for the cooler so... time to trade the bloody thing for a printer!









And when it comes to inadequate PSUs, I used to give the CPUs more juice by routing molex to the 12V 4-pin. I think I still have a cheap 450W PSU around that has a modified 4-pin to have two molex pluged into it, I ripped apart a molex-to-6-pin adapter, cut the wires on the 4-pin and soldered the additional two molex plugs. That gave enough power to clock up my old Core 2 Duo E4500 from 2.93Ghz (which was max I could get) to 3.5GHz and remain stable, it would BSOD otherwise. Not being able to afford new stuff makes my brain work better and improve the stuff I have.


----------



## el gappo

I don't think @txtmstrjoe really has the time to keep this thread up to date anymore. If anyone is interested in taking over, do let me know









It's an awesome thread. Going to feature it on the homepage right now in fact


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *el gappo*
> 
> I don't think @txtmstrjoe
> really has the time to keep this thread up to date anymore. If anyone is interested in taking over, do let me know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's an awesome thread. Going to feature it on the homepage right now in fact


Make sure we keep Joe, thinkerbell and all the other old timers in mention in the op though in my opinion. But yea great idea!


----------



## danilon62

Can I join?











Sempron 3200+ @1.8GHz, labelled as made during 2005 in China, still works kinda fine. I bended some pins in a bunch of occasions, always put them back with a pencil lol


----------



## Wihglah

I had an Athlon 3200+ up around 2800MHz under phase change on a 939. I think is was an Asus A8N32-sli Deluxe.

I remember straightening pins on more than one occasion.

I ran a gig of OCZ Gold DDR and an 8800GTX


----------



## ozlay

I just got another Asus A8N32-sli Deluxe today i just couldn't bare seeing her get recycled so i had to bring her home with me and after giving her a nice bath and a hard drive she purrs like a kitten again


----------



## zila

Awesome, those are beautiful boards.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I still have my Toledo 3800+ that pulled 2.8GHz at stock voltage on my junk board, and 2GB DDR500 and 2GB DDR333 laying around. I just need to find a board, and I'd have my 939 fix again, lol.

Sadly, at this point, I need my car fixed first.


----------



## cdoublejj

http://www.overclock.net/t/293448/the-socket-939-appreciation-club-and-knowledgebase-official#post_3386057

I had a rare sempron !? was it any good? still have a socket 939 but, it's not my original with nagami HP board, it's full on 939 rig but, it has wack 8800GT so it reboots and i'm sure by now it's reset to default settings instead of the overclocked settings. i have a dual core in it now.


----------



## ozlay

Im still kicking myself for getting rid of my newcaste 3400+ 939 not knowing it was rare at the time


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Dam this Club still alive.


----------



## cdoublejj

just about any competent dual core from 2006 and later even some Pentium Ds are still EXTREMELY competent chips to day. EVEN FOR GAMING!!! My acer 5920g with it's overclocked T9300 can handle metro 2033 at medium low graphics.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> just about any competent dual core from 2006 and later even some Pentium Ds are still EXTREMELY competent chips to day. EVEN FOR GAMING!!! My acer 5920g with it's overclocked T9300 can handle metro 2033 at medium low graphics.


I've got a C2D e6600 at stock 2.4GHz, 4GB DDR2-800, and an HD7750. That sucker can still game just fine too. GRiD 2 on "High" details at 1080p, holding a solid 30 FPS.

It's nowhere near a really nice gaming rig, but a duallie can certainly still get the job done just fine. Socket 939 included.

EDIT:
I even tested it with a SSD (Sandisk Ultra 128GB), and it was just as fast as my sig i7 doing daily tasks.


----------



## seaFs

"New" used PSU arrived and I plugged eversthing in. Still random shutdowns, especially when booting. The rig simply powers off with no alert. Temps are all in good range, never exceeding 50°C. I needed to raise cpu voltage a notch (from VID 1.27 to 1.30) to keep it 3GHz stable at pre-summer temperatures, though








Maybe it's my underclocked and undervolted graphcis card that needs more juice, but does this really make the PC shut down while booting????

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danilon62*
> 
> Can I join?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2025104/width/500/height/1000
> 
> Sempron 3200+ @1.8GHz, labelled as made during 2005 in China, still works kinda fine. I bended some pins in a bunch of occasions, always put them back with a pencil lol


SDA is AM2, not 939







What is the production date of your CPU? It reads like 0041.


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Maybe it's my underclocked and undervolted graphcis card that needs more juice, but does this really make the PC shut down while booting????


Could be, a failing VGA output will shut down the OS, and if the GPU is undervolted and underclocked in VBIOS, the motherboard itself will shut the machine down during POST.

But it seems more to me like either the board is dying, or some of your MB components like VRMs/socket/NB are overheating, my current board will do it if the socket temp exceeds 75C, which unfortunately can't be monitored. Put some fans on those and see if it still happens, and if it stops, remove fans one by one until you figure out which one is the culprit.

And it seems I've reached the end of the road on my 3000+, I can't do over 1.550V until I get a better cooler (I'm reaching 51C right now, anything over 54C is unacceptable), so I took some time tweaking the rest of the parts. Here's the end result:



Linky

RAM is running at 410MHz with a 4/3 (1.33) divider since it's some crappy Kingmax Value RAM, can't even push it to 420MHz on stock timings with +0.2V being pumped through them (which is max this board allows). I'll loosen up the timings and see where it gets me, it's a single-channel 1GB DIMM so I'll take any RAM bandwidth available.









I've also been thinking of overclocking the PCI-E bus but I'm not sure if it increases the bandwidth towards hard drives or just the graphics card. The other board I have (ASUS A8S-X) does boost disk I/O performance on SATA by overclocking PCI-E but SiS 756 has AHCI SATA mode when set to "native" and nForce 4 doesn't, instead opting for IDE mode on SATA drives. If I recall correctly, IDE doesn't get much, if anything at all from overclocking PCI-E, but I could be horribly wrong.

All in all, I love this 3000+, it's a good chip. 48.1% OC on an FX 8320 cooler ain't bad at all. And I should really edit my sig rig to reflect the CPU/mobo change.


----------



## Zamoldac

I'd like to join









AMD FX-55








GA-K8NS Ultra-939
2x 1Gb DDR Kingmax
Sapphire 9800Pro 128Mb
Ageia Physx P1 ES _(just for the fun of it)_
2x WD Raptor S-ATA (36Gb/76Gb)

Didn't get to OC it yet, mostly using it for Quake II, Rune, Oni...and other older games


----------



## SwishaMane

Ha, nice to see the s939 club on home page, next to 8800gtx overclocking and OCN 10 year anniversary. How appropriate.


----------



## el gappo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Ha, nice to see the s939 club on home page, next to 8800gtx overclocking and OCN 10 year anniversary. How appropriate.


Kickin' it oldschool!


----------



## funsoul

Wow...so many folks still beating on this socket is awesome!

Here's one of mine:


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Could be, a failing VGA output will shut down the OS, and if the GPU is undervolted and underclocked in VBIOS, the motherboard itself will shut the machine down during POST.
> 
> But it seems more to me like either the board is dying, or some of your MB components like VRMs/socket/NB are overheating, my current board will do it if the socket temp exceeds 75C, which unfortunately can't be monitored. Put some fans on those and see if it still happens, and if it stops, remove fans one by one until you figure out which one is the culprit.
> 
> And it seems I've reached the end of the road on my 3000+, I can't do over 1.550V until I get a better cooler (I'm reaching 51C right now, anything over 54C is unacceptable), so I took some time tweaking the rest of the parts. Here's the end result:
> 
> 
> 
> Linky
> 
> RAM is running at 410MHz with a 4/3 (1.33) divider since it's some crappy Kingmax Value RAM, can't even push it to 420MHz on stock timings with +0.2V being pumped through them (which is max this board allows). I'll loosen up the timings and see where it gets me, it's a single-channel 1GB DIMM so I'll take any RAM bandwidth available.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've also been thinking of overclocking the PCI-E bus but I'm not sure if it increases the bandwidth towards hard drives or just the graphics card. The other board I have (ASUS A8S-X) does boost disk I/O performance on SATA by overclocking PCI-E but SiS 756 has AHCI SATA mode when set to "native" and nForce 4 doesn't, instead opting for IDE mode on SATA drives. If I recall correctly, IDE doesn't get much, if anything at all from overclocking PCI-E, but I could be horribly wrong.
> 
> All in all, I love this 3000+, it's a good chip. 48.1% OC on an FX 8320 cooler ain't bad at all. And I should really edit my sig rig to reflect the CPU/mobo change.


My 3000+.








http://valid.canardpc.com/xwenm6


----------



## funsoul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> My 3000+.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/xwenm6


Nice! Happy Friday to ya' Mr.Scott!


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> My 3000+.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/xwenm6


Damn...


----------



## zila

Yup, Scottie is hard core.







Good goin' pal.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funsoul*
> 
> Nice! Happy Friday to ya' Mr.Scott!


Back at ya Funsy.


----------



## el gappo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> My 3000+.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/xwenm6


I got you on that one Scotty









http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1516451


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *el gappo*
> 
> I got you on that one Scotty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1516451


Nice.
Gonna make me delid now ain't ya.


----------



## el gappo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Nice.
> Gonna make me delid now ain't ya.


Lol I'm sure that'll net you that extra 8mhz


----------



## Mr.Scott

LOL.


----------



## funsoul

You two are just killin' me here! ;P


At some point am going to have to rebench whatever 939's I've still got using cascade.(Hopefully) Can't do worse.


----------



## barkeater

donated my 939 computer to my sister-in-law last summer when I upgraded to the i5. Damn if the mobo/ps/hdd's didn't crap out on me just before the hand-off. Had to source a new/used 939 mobo from ebay. My original board was an ASUS A8N-E and worked pretty good once I upgraded the chipset fan with a aluminum heatsink. Had upgraded my cpu from a x2 3800+ to the x2 4600+ but could never oc beyond 10% even with the Artic Freezer on there. Once I donated it, I returned it to stock cpu cooler. The GPU in there is a 8800GT which oc'd pretty well (stock cooler). RAM was corsair cmx 1024-3200c2PT which also oc'd pretty well. Just could never get the cpu to oc much after much time/effort expended (shrug). That cpu did well with Battlefield 2, but could not run 3, so had to upgrade to ivory bridge







When I was looking for a replacement mobo for my original A8N-E, I was surprised to see how well the 939 mobo's were holding their value. Especially the sli boards.

here's a pic of the ole gal

]

This still shows my original gpu evga 7600GT.


----------



## BritishBob

This reminds me I need to get my 940 socket up and running. As far as I know it powers up, I just need a GPU...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Death Dealer

I still have my 165 today somewhere, and gave my brother the machine that had the 3800 in it, still running today as a matter of fact.


----------



## Hueristic

939 still chugging away.

https://www.miningrigrentals.com/rigs/851/


----------



## PcGamer1977

Hey guys about what year did this socket come out? Anyone know? Really god idea to see a thread dedicated to a classic like the 939.I heard the x2s were the ultimate gamers back in the day?!.......I cant join but iam going to enjoy reading through this thread!


----------



## BritishBob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PcGamer1977*
> 
> Hey guys about what year did this socket come out? Anyone know? Really god idea to see a thread dedicated to a classic like the 939.I heard the x2s were the ultimate gamers back in the day?!.......I cant join but iam going to enjoy reading through this thread!


June 2004.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Socket_939


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PcGamer1977*
> 
> Hey guys about what year did this socket come out? Anyone know? Really god idea to see a thread dedicated to a classic like the 939.I heard the x2s were the ultimate gamers back in the day?!.......I cant join but iam going to enjoy reading through this thread!


Mid-2004 I believe, I bought my 3200+ a day after my birthday which was 2-3 months after A64 came out. EDIT: BritishBob ninja'd me, with better info too.

And yeah, Athlon 64 X2 were the best processors available until 2006 when Core 2 Duo came out. Intel couldn't pull off a decent dual-core so they opted for HT which turned out to be a massive failure (P4 was much like Bulldozer, high clocks with low IPC and high power consumption, as well as bad thread scaling) since overclocked P4s could barely even compete with stock high-end single-core A64s, much less with X2 which was nearly twice as fast. Game devs adopted the dual-cores relatively quickly, by mid-2005 there was a nice selection of games utilizing the second core so A64 X2 reigned supreme until C2D came out.


----------



## SwishaMane

The board I run is from 2004. lol One of the best 939 boards Ive ever run. DFI Ultra Infinity


----------



## johnvosh

I've currently got 3 939 boards. I was running a Gigabyte GA-K8N Ultra Sli for the longest times, but then it started crashing on me because the caps died. I have an Asus A8N-Sli Premium new in the box sitting on a shelf and then I am running an Asus A8N32-Sli Deluxe & a Manchester X2 3800+ CPU with Windows 7 as it doesn't work with Windows XP service pack 3.


----------



## Hueristic

[quote name="johnvosh" url="/t/293448/the-socket-939-appreciation-club-and-knowledgebase-official/26450#post_22315338"... I am running an Asus A8N32-Sli Deluxe & a Manchester X2 3800+ CPU with Windows 7 as it doesn't work with Windows XP service pack 3.[/quote]

I have never heard of such a thing, are you sure the XP Isn't just corrupt?


----------



## toughacton

Alright! Featured thread! I'm still running 2x 939s that my kids use mainly, one as a HTPC and the other for older games on xp which happens to be this one Yes thats at 3.1GHz 24/7 on air OC







Its a great CPU and with the 2x 1950 pros it tears through all my old dx9 games.

Also to those who might not normally catch it, I held and will be holding again an OC competition on socket 939 in October. Keep your eyes peeled to this thread around that time as I will announce details then. Gotta love the speed you can squeeze out of these! Kudos to the above clocks as well! Bring em in October!


----------



## johnvosh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> [quote name="johnvosh" url="/t/293448/the-socket-939-appreciation-club-and-knowledgebase-official/26450#post_22315338"... I am running an Asus A8N32-Sli Deluxe & a Manchester X2 3800+ CPU with Windows 7 as it doesn't work with Windows XP service pack 3.


I have never heard of such a thing, are you sure the XP Isn't just corrupt?[/quote]

Yup, under XP serivce pack 2 it works fine. If I installed service pack 3 it would stop working. I can't remember exactly would happen, but I do know I would have trouble with the USB ports and other things.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnvosh*
> 
> Yup, under XP serivce pack 2 it works fine. If I installed service pack 3 it would stop working. I can't remember exactly would happen, but I do know I would have trouble with the USB ports and other things.


Has to be something you're installing. I have many 939 boards on XP sp3 including that exact same board.


----------



## Shipw22

Guess I can't enter my old Socket 462 Sempron. I wish my old 939 rig wouldn't have been zapped.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Alright! Featured thread! I'm still running 2x 939s that my kids use mainly, one as a HTPC and the other for older games on xp which happens to be this one Yes thats at 3.1GHz 24/7 on air OC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a great CPU and with the 2x 1950 pros it tears through all my old dx9 games.
> 
> Also to those who might not normally catch it, I held and will be holding again an OC competition on socket 939 in October. Keep your eyes peeled to this thread around that time as I will announce details then. Gotta love the speed you can squeeze out of these! Kudos to the above clocks as well! Bring em in October!


Hey.....isn't that MY old golden Opty?









No seriously....I sold mine to somebody on here. I think that might be it.


----------



## StormX2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Hey.....isn't that MY old golden Opty?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No seriously....I sold mine to somebody on here. I think that might be it.


lol that would be funny


----------



## toughacton

Well I don't think I got it from you directly. It was an ebay purchase though. I believe it came with one of my SLI-DR boards. whether the working or dead one im not sure. Its a really nice LCBQE though which i believe is the same stepping as the one you had.


----------



## Aleslammer

[quote name="toughacton" Also to those who might not normally catch it, I held and will be holding again an OC competition on socket 939 in October. Keep your eyes peeled to this thread around that time as I will announce details then. Gotta love the speed you can squeeze out of these! Kudos to the above clocks as well! Bring em in October![/quote]

Looking forward, the last one was a lot of fun.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Well I don't think I got it from you directly. It was an ebay purchase though. I believe it came with one of my SLI-DR boards. whether the working or dead one im not sure. Its a really nice LCBQE though which i believe is the same stepping as the one you had.


I had lcbqe. I'm almost sure you bought that from me back when I sold all my golden 939 gear. I'll dig up my pms if I have to, lol. Not jelly or nothing just find it ironic.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnvosh*
> 
> I have never heard of such a thing, are you sure the XP Isn't just corrupt?


Yup, under XP serivce pack 2 it works fine. If I installed service pack 3 it would stop working. I can't remember exactly would happen, but I do know I would have trouble with the USB ports and other things.[/quote]

xp is known to install AMD file on Intel machine and Intel files on an AMD machine during service packs from time to time on certain hardware setups.

---

I never got great clocks out of 939 stuff. you're extremely lucky to get the ram to run @ 400 mhz with all 4 slots.


----------



## Death Dealer

939 competition, I like the sounds of this! Is it only split into categories like Air,Water,Ln2? I have a really good Opty 165 dual and single core 148 sitting around.


----------



## seaFs

Death Dealer, have a look here.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1424095/ocn-socket-939-october-overclocking-competition/0
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> I never got great clocks out of 939 stuff. you're extremely lucky to get the ram to run @ 400 mhz with all 4 slots.


Well, that depends, but I don't know on what








With my main rig (X2 4400+, A8N32) the best I could achieve was 4x1GB CL2.5 with CR 2T (overclocked to 466MHz). But even 400MHz did only CL2.5, no boot with CL2.
But my second rig (Opty 180, crappy A8N-E) uses the same DIMMs and runs flawlessly 400MHz CL2 with CR 2T. Maybe it is the better memory controller in the CPU. Pity the Opty doesn't clock so well...


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aleslammer*
> 
> [quote name="toughacton" Also to those who might not normally catch it, I held and will be holding again an OC competition on socket 939 in October. Keep your eyes peeled to this thread around that time as I will announce details then. Gotta love the speed you can squeeze out of these! Kudos to the above clocks as well! Bring em in October!


Looking forward, the last one was a lot of fun.[/quote]

As am I. Always a good time.


----------



## TheN00bBuilder

Add me to the nostalgics! I ran an Athlon x2 3800+ overclocked to 3.5 GHz on a cheap motherboard and horrible cooling.


----------



## oz120

Hey everyone I have a ton of questions I need to ask and this seems to be the place to do it since I have a BRAND NEW ABit A8N-SLi board 939 socket. A little history, I purchased the board back in 2007 when 939 first came out, I then picked up a case(some massive red and black thing that kinda looks like a monster). I got laid off from my job not long after getting the case and MOBO. I now have it sitting in my house and am thinking of finally finishing it.

1. Is it worth finishing it at this point with it being so out dated?

If so...
2. What RAM, PSU, Graphics card should I look to get to finish the build?

If its NOT WORTH IT...
3. What are my best options for a desktop PC right now having about $400 in my pocket to spend?(I know this PC will not be able to play any new games).

OR would I be better off just saving my cash to build a new desktop at a later date.

I have a ROG laptop that has eaten up everything I have thrown at it so far so not to worried about a gaming desktop just yet.

By the way count me in as a 939 owner.(its never even had power to it if I still count as an owner).

Thanks for all your help


----------



## pioneerisloud

For $400 you can build a solid i3 rig, or buying used an i5 rig. I wouldn't waste money on 939 equipment even though I love it..... Unless it was strictly for nostalgia.


----------



## oz120

I was thinking of finishing it just for nostalgia but, I was also thinking of giving it to my dad since his desktop is from 2003-2004.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oz120*
> 
> I was thinking of finishing it just for nostalgia but, I was also thinking of giving it to my dad since his desktop is from 2003-2004.


Don't get me wrong. A 939 dually is plenty strong still for daily tasks, as is the core 2 series. I just wouldn't sink much money into one. If you can find cheap cheap parts by all means. Just my 2 cents because 400 bucks can honestly build you a very very competent machine.


----------



## oz120

Thanks very much for the input. Maybe I will just sell the case ad mount the MOBO on black plexi and on the wall in the office. Its a sweet red with black everything.. Not even sure what CPU I have for it. I know its a dually but it was given to me without any info on it.


----------



## BritishBob

I'd have to agree as well, unless building for nostalgia $400 can get you a decent daily driver, so to speak.


----------



## oz120

Then its settled I will just save up my cash and maybe someday (in a long long time) and build a killer 4K gamer.


----------



## XyborgSweden

Ahh. The nostalgia is rushing over me. Used to have a AMD 64 FX 3000+ with a GeForce 6600GT as my gaming rigg. Had that thing for a loooong time. And then my brother inherited it and ran it for a few years as well. That thing was a true champ.


----------



## StormX2

dont build a proper 939 unless u already have a good machine and you want to be a badass with 939 cred


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> dont build a proper 939 unless u already have a good machine and you want to be a badass with 939 cred


This. lol


----------



## Atomfix

Can I join?


----------



## vladv

This IS awesome dude!


----------



## cssorkinman

The 2014 HWBOT team cup competition offers a few opportunities for us 939 guys to compete - check em out here http://hwbot.org/competition/team_cup_2014/


----------



## Imouto

Heard you like these. Found it a while ago scavenging my junk room.


----------



## zila

Oh yeah................that's nice. I'm howling like wolf.


----------



## Fir3Chi3f

Saw the thread on the front page carousel and nostalgia'ed so hard.









The DFI NF4 was an amazing board and AMD had the only 64bit chips. I have a trusty 3700+ to top it all off. Still have that junk somewhere around here...


----------



## vspec

Add me to the list.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=474902

still have it lying around too.

Also pretty sure i posted this 4 years ago and never got added lol.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imouto*
> 
> 
> 
> Heard you like these. Found it a while ago scavenging my junk room.


Sell me dat, ha ha


----------



## vladv

@ Imouto

One of the best mobo for socket 939 overclocking







,and I have the best one DFI NF4 SLI-DR Expert version







.


----------



## barkeater

I had bought a replacement for my dead ASUS A8N-E on ebay. Lanparty DFI Ultra something or other. Then found out that all the tribal knowledge from DFI Street was no longer available. Turned out board was doa anyway, but it came with the x2 4200+. Got my $ refunded and dude didn't even ask for a return. Sold the dead board on ebay and used the cpu till I bought an x2 4400+ fun times


----------



## gasparspeed

I would like to enter this club. I love Socket 939 and i own 2:
-AMD Athlon 64 3000+ (actually unused)
-AMD Athlon 64 X2 4200+ (CPU-Z Link: http://valid.x86.fr/1m1qsu)


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vladv*
> 
> @ Imouto
> 
> One of the best mobo for socket 939 overclocking:thumb: , and I have the best one DFI NF4 SLI-DR Expert version.


Actually the "Venus" version is the best overall since it has solid caps instead of the usual ones you'd see with boards of this era. I too own an Expert and a pair of Ultra D's for good measure.
One of the D's is borked but I think it could be fixed, the other one runs just fine and so does the Expert.


----------



## vladv

Yeah,actually the Venus was the socket 939 queen with all solid caps.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Re-cap the Expert. It's the same damn board. You just pay more for the name and the pretty box.


----------



## cdoublejj

and if you can't re cap it take it to some who can or try to find some one who can. i've been known to re cap a few boards every year.


----------



## seaFs

Bets result so far for highest unstable clock. 3261MHz
http://valid.canardpc.com/19xlkj
Notice that the registered RAM is running at 543MHz. I weakened the timings from 3-3-3-5 to 3-4-4-10, also changed sum subtimings and increased the voltage from 2.75 to 2.8V
Maybe I can get 3.2GHz stable with this memory clocks, which is 533MHz then, pretty awesome for server DIMMs.
CPU temperature might rise to 55-58°C under full load and 1.584V. I am definitely limited by the low voltage. Guess it's time to volt-mod that board. With lower memory speeds and just two DIMMs i might be able to crack 3.3GHz.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Wow. And with 8gb as well!


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Wow. And with 8gb as well!


I've only found 1 report of a guy getting 2gb modules to work and in his case it only worked with 1 stick installed the second both were installed it crapped out and wouldn't post still 1 stick was removed.


----------



## seaFs

It totally depends on the motherboard and the CPU. The former has to support ECC in the BIOS to program the integrated memory controller for 64 or 72 bit address width respectively, the latter has to support registered ECC modules.
Checking for ECC is no problem, as it is to be found in the manual, but registered support seems to be no where written down. Rev E6 CPUs all support registered modules, and at least ECC support is mentioned by AMD itself (I read that in a tech review about Rev. E6 CPUs). My 3000+ Newcastle CG doesn't boot at all with reg ECC, so either reg or ECC or both is not supported. Since I have no non-reg ECC DIMMS around I can't test this.

My last hope was a DFI UT-CFX3200, because someone wrote it had ECC support, but the manual lacks any mentioning of this BIOS option. What a pity. Playing with tRef could grant some better results.


----------



## SwishaMane

8GB of RAM on a s939 is ridonculous... That rocks man!


----------



## vladv

That IS s pretty awesome man!!


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Bets result so far for highest unstable clock. 3261MHz
> http://valid.canardpc.com/19xlkj
> Notice that the registered RAM is running at 543MHz. I weakened the timings from 3-3-3-5 to 3-4-4-10, also changed sum subtimings and increased the voltage from 2.75 to 2.8V
> Maybe I can get 3.2GHz stable with this memory clocks, which is 533MHz then, pretty awesome for server DIMMs.
> CPU temperature might rise to 55-58°C under full load and 1.584V. I am definitely limited by the low voltage. Guess it's time to volt-mod that board. With lower memory speeds and just two DIMMs i might be able to crack 3.3GHz.


IMPRESSIVE!


----------



## StormX2

oh SNAP! an 8 GB 939 posting over 3 ghz

I think someone finally won the internet..


----------



## vladv

Socket 939 STILL rullz!


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> It totally depends on the motherboard and the CPU. The former has to support ECC in the BIOS to program the integrated memory controller for 64 or 72 bit address width respectively, the latter has to support registered ECC modules.
> Checking for ECC is no problem, as it is to be found in the manual, but registered support seems to be no where written down. Rev E6 CPUs all support registered modules, and at least ECC support is mentioned by AMD itself (I read that in a tech review about Rev. E6 CPUs). My 3000+ Newcastle CG doesn't boot at all with reg ECC, so either reg or ECC or both is not supported. Since I have no non-reg ECC DIMMS around I can't test this.
> 
> My last hope was a DFI UT-CFX3200, because someone wrote it had ECC support, but the manual lacks any mentioning of this BIOS option. What a pity. Playing with tRef could grant some better results.


I wonder if we can make some sort of guide to possible compatibility.

I have the same board but, i'll have to see what CPU, maybe can point me to the same ram you have?


----------



## seaFs

Thanks guys, I'm trying to push it harder^^

Qimonda HYS72D256320HBR-5-C
2GB,DDR,400,CL3,ECC,Reg



These DIMMs get very hot, even hotter than OCZ Platinum 1GB sticks (TSOP Infineon BE-5) at 2.85V. I haven't seen so much black on a PCB







I really thought about using some aluminium plates to cool the DIMMs. Espesially RAM slot 1 is a problem, because the the CPU heat sink keeps any air flow away from it. I shot the 4 DIMMs at ebay for 20€ + shipping, used condition pulled form some server. There are plenty of that sticks around now.

Funny thing is, the CF-5 chips seem to be the successor of Samsung TCCD/TCC5/UCCC chips, they have higher densitiy and might crack 300MHz.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Thanks guys, I'm trying to push it harder^^
> 
> Qimonda HYS72D256320HBR-F-C
> 2GB,DDR,400,CL3,ECC,Reg
> 
> 
> 
> These DIMMs get very hot, even hotter than OCZ Platinum 1GB sticks (TSOP Infineon BE-5) at 2.85V. I haven't seen so much black on a PCB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really thought about using some aluminium plates to cool the DIMMs. Espesially RAM slot 1 is a problem, because the the CPU heat sink keeps any air flow away from it. I shot the 4 DIMMs at ebay for 20€ + shipping, used condition pulled form some server. There are plenty of that sticks around now.
> 
> Funny thing is, the CF-5 chips seem to be the successor of Samsung TCCD/TCC5/UCCC chips, they have higher densitiy and might crack 300MHz.


and this only works with revision E6 chips? is there a way to tell if one has an E6 CPU? What are using for cooling to get those clocks L2N? Phase? Would a clip on ram cooler help cool the ram?

EDIT: if Google that it brings up ddr 333 on ebay.

EDIT: this works better but, be weary i removed "-F-C" off the end for better results,

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0&_nkw=HYS72D256320HBR&_sacat=0&_from=R40


----------



## SwishaMane

My board supports ECC. And my CPU is E6.



I am going to find two sticks and see wassup on 4GB RAM to start...

EDIT: Im fairly confident this board maxes at 4GB. Man... 8 would be dope.


----------



## seaFs

Don't give a damn about the 4GB barrier. Asus supports 4GB of RAM on the A8N32, but sill I'm running twice the amount. Abit officially supports 8GB on the AN8-whatsoever-SLI board. Plus I'm pretty sure I could plug in 4x4GB stacked DRAM and it runs with 16GB, at least with 400MHz.
All the socket 940 Opterons have the same die size, transistor count and revision (which, in fact, has become the memory controller revision) as their 939 counterparts. And you can throw ridiculous amounts of RAM onto 940 boards, they just lack overclocking features.

@cdoublejj
I use simple air cooling. IFX-14 on the CPU, mounted directly on the die, and an 80mm fan blowing some air over the dimms. Without that they get so hot, I can't even touch them for longer than a second (temperature > approx. 45°C). With the air flow it's just a bit warmer than my hands. But for some "extreme" volts > 2.9V I'd like to cool the chips, becuase I don't want to loose them^^

About the DIMM parts number: Sorry, I had a mistake in it. It is, in fact, Qimonda HYS72D256320HBR-*5*-C
http://www.ebay.com/itm/8GB-4x2GB-Qimonda-Server-Memory-HP-373030-PC3200R-ECC-Reg-HYS72D256320HBR-5-C-/150904127897?pt=US_Memory_RAM_&hash=item2322964199
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Qimonda-8GB-4x-2GB-PC-3200R-DDR-HYS72D256320HBR-5-C-Memory-HP-373030-851-/251320201790?pt=US_Memory_RAM_&hash=item3a83d9f23e
My search words are "8gb pc3200r qimonda". The two items above both use Qimonda CF-5 chips and look exactly like my ones. 27$ sounds like a very good price for the RAM.

About CPU revision: Download the tool "CPU-Z", it reads all the information about your CPU and displays it. If you are not sure, you can "validate" your CPU and post the link in here.


----------



## ozlay

wonder if 4gb ddr ecc sticks work


----------



## SwishaMane

Ill see how 2 dimms goes first, then maybe go for 4. Will be interesting.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Don't give a damn about the 4GB barrier. Asus supports 4GB of RAM on the A8N32, but sill I'm running twice the amount. Abit officially supports 8GB on the AN8-whatsoever-SLI board. Plus I'm pretty sure I could plug in 4x4GB stacked DRAM and it runs with 16GB, at least with 400MHz.
> All the socket 940 Opterons have the same die size, transistor count and revision (which, in fact, has become the memory controller revision) as their 939 counterparts. And you can throw ridiculous amounts of RAM onto 940 boards, they just lack overclocking features.
> 
> @cdoublejj
> I use simple air cooling. IFX-14 on the CPU, mounted directly on the die, and an 80mm fan blowing some air over the dimms. Without that they get so hot, I can't even touch them for longer than a second (temperature > approx. 45°C). With the air flow it's just a bit warmer than my hands. But for some "extreme" volts > 2.9V I'd like to cool the chips, becuase I don't want to loose them^^
> 
> About the DIMM parts number: Sorry, I had a mistake in it. It is, in fact, Qimonda HYS72D256320HBR-*5*-C
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/8GB-4x2GB-Qimonda-Server-Memory-HP-373030-PC3200R-ECC-Reg-HYS72D256320HBR-5-C-/150904127897?pt=US_Memory_RAM_&hash=item2322964199
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Qimonda-8GB-4x-2GB-PC-3200R-DDR-HYS72D256320HBR-5-C-Memory-HP-373030-851-/251320201790?pt=US_Memory_RAM_&hash=item3a83d9f23e
> My search words are "8gb pc3200r qimonda". The two items above both use Qimonda CF-5 chips and look exactly like my ones. 27$ sounds like a very good price for the RAM.
> 
> About CPU revision: Download the tool "CPU-Z", it reads all the information about your CPU and displays it. If you are not sure, you can "validate" your CPU and post the link in here.


AAHHH SNAP!!! I got an E6!!!!

Did you go thorugh a bunch of chips till you found one that will do 3.2 ghz or all we all "doing it wrong"?


----------



## ozlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> AAHHH SNAP!!! I got an E6!!!!
> 
> Did you go thorugh a bunch of chips till you found one that will do 3.2 ghz or all we all "doing it wrong"?


the ram probably helps with the overclocks iv ran ECC DDR 266 at 400 before with out any issues


----------



## seaFs

The 4400+ at 3GHz is my first dual core. I think I got very lucky when I shot it on ebay in 2009. I started pushing it that hard a year ago, until then it ran at 2.8GHz with 1.5V. Didn't really know what I was doing with it and started to read and test last year. It all began when 4x1Gb of RAM went into my rig and problems with timings and voltages showed up.
Before last years Christmas I shot an Opteron 180 at ebay for a few bucks with the hope that it runs far better as the X2 4400+. Well, it failed. The Opteron runs worse. It hits 3GHz as well, but needs ~1.45V, compared to 1.296V. Both are delidded, bringing temps and voltage down.

Long story short: I did no magic, just buying nothing expensive. It always takes quite a while to find cheap things.

The registered memory seems to help improve the clocks. My Athlon X2 has a weaker memory controller than the Opteron, which can run 4x1GB at CL2, the other one needs CL2.5. But with the registered RAM all the adressing problems are gone, because the memory controller has to contact 2 chips ber DIMM, not 16, thus giving more stable signals. And there is a smalll clock buffer chip that improves signal quality. Unfortunatley there is no data sheet available for this small chip ( CKVF857 ), but I've found a data sheet for CKV857A, stating that it runs up to 250MHz with 2.3-2.7V. Sounds good to me








The registered buffer is a texas Instruments SSF859, also no data sheet hits for this name here, but a similar one seems to be SN74SSTVF16859. Well, that one requires 2.5-2.7V, but I couldn't find any useful information about the save clocks for this chip.

Anyhow, when touching the DIMMs while the system is running the buffer chips get warm, but not hot. Most of the heat is produced by the memory ICs, so the'll have to be cooled first. Bad thing about the DIMMs: the memory chips are a bit higher than the buffer chips. When using RAM heat sinks, this might be a problem.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> The 4400+ at 3GHz is my first dual core. I think I got very lucky when I shot it on ebay in 2009. I started pushing it that hard a year ago, until then it ran at 2.8GHz with 1.5V. Didn't really know what I was doing with it and started to read and test last year. It all began when 4x1Gb of RAM went into my rig and problems with timings and voltages showed up.
> Before last years Christmas I shot an Opteron 180 at ebay for a few bucks with the hope that it runs far better as the X2 4400+. Well, it failed. The Opteron runs worse. It hits 3GHz as well, but needs ~1.45V, compared to 1.296V. Both are delidded, bringing temps and voltage down.
> 
> Long story short: I did no magic, just buying nothing expensive. It always takes quite a while to find cheap things.


i assume they are soldered on lids?


----------



## seaFs

They are not soldered. There is some thermal paste between IHS and die. The IHS is glued by some black rubber on the organic plate. You can cut it with a sharp blade (razor blade or box cutter). Tutorials are out there, too, both in text and video form. I recommend to train it a bit with a spare CPU.


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> i assume they are soldered on lids?


Nope, most use TIM like Ivy/Haswell:

This one is an AM2 Brisbane and the pic ain't mine, I have no delidded A64s right now but I delidded a bunch back in the day.

Delidding an A64 is tricky though, the components beneath the IHS (the little yellow things) are very close to the IHS edge so try on some Athlons you don't mind killing, 939 A64 has less of the yellow things and different spacing/position. And PGA doesn't have an IHS retention bracket like LGA so you'd either have to aim the IHS perfectly on top of the CPU, which is quite complicated, or glue the IHS back on with something.

Well, that or use it without an IHS like in the old days of Athlon Thunderbird. Naked Athlons are very sexy.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Nope, most use TIM like Ivy/Haswell:
> 
> This one is an AM2 Brisbane and the pic ain't mine, I have no delidded A64s right now but I delidded a bunch back in the day.
> 
> Delidding an A64 is tricky though, the components beneath the IHS (the little yellow things) are very close to the IHS edge so try on some Athlons you don't mind killing, 939 A64 has less of the yellow things and different spacing/position. And PGA doesn't have an IHS retention bracket like LGA so you'd either have to aim the IHS perfectly on top of the CPU, which is quite complicated, or glue the IHS back on with something.
> 
> Well, that or use it without an IHS like in the old days of Athlon Thunderbird. Naked Athlons are very sexy.


WHAT!? is there a way to tell if the my CPU that i posted a few posted earlier has tim? what percaustions should betaken when tightening down the tower coooler? maybe a felt pad like on north bridge chips? man i wonder if i put AS5 on the nb heat sink.

EDIT: assuming you deleted the lid which i think i can maybe do with my cooling setup but, maybe not the best idea if one has direct touch heat pipes.

(i've practiced before.)


----------



## seaFs

That's why I bought a Thermalright IFX-14 and lapped it. Before there were a Xigmatek HDT-S1283 and an S1284 cooling the CPU.
As far as I know there are better thermal pastes than AS5 out there. Especially when you consider that AS5 needs some days/weeks to show its full potential. I put a thin film of AC MX-2 on the die and carefully mounted the heat sink on it. First I thought a spacer would be necessary, but it works fine without, thanks to the mounting system of the IFX-14.


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> WHAT!? is there a way to tell if the my CPU that i posted a few posted earlier has tim? what percaustions should betaken when tightening down the tower coooler? maybe a felt pad like on north bridge chips? man i wonder if i put AS5 on the nb heat sink.


Every A64 has TIM. And the only precaution is that you shouldn't overtighten the cooler or tighten it unevenly. I generally used block coolers with retention systems for mounting on delidded CPUs (or bolt-through coolers) and two relatively hard spongy things on each corner as well to help make the pressure more even, same as what old Thunderbird used basically. Coolers that use springs to exert pressure are bad, don't use those, nor tower coolers since they tend to crack the die. Also don't use thermal pads, only TIM.

I would also advise against using AS5 though, aside from the fact that it's conductive (meaning that if it gets on those yellow things, game over) it takes time to "heal" and costs too much while giving too little of an advantage. Use non-conductive TIMs that don't need healing time like MX-2/MX-4 for direct-die cooling. No need to spread it yourself, cooler pressure will take care of that, you just need to make sure there is enough to cover the whole die.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> They are not soldered. There is some thermal paste between IHS and die. The IHS is glued by some black rubber on the organic plate. You can cut it with a sharp blade (razor blade or box cutter). Tutorials are out there, too, both in text and video form. I recommend to train it a bit with a spare CPU.


All 939's I've ever seen or heard of can be delidded, AM2 chips are where they began soldering lids on. I have delidded a few chips with no dead ones as a result but the last one I did was damaged. The chip still works but is wonky.

I agree you'd want a few chips to practice with before trying it on chips you really want to keep.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Every A64 has TIM. And the only precaution is that you shouldn't overtighten the cooler or tighten it unevenly. I generally used block coolers with retention systems for mounting on delidded CPUs (or bolt-through coolers) and two relatively hard spongy things on each corner as well to help make the pressure more even, same as what old Thunderbird used basically. Coolers that use springs to exert pressure are bad, don't use those, nor tower coolers since they tend to crack the die. Also don't use thermal pads, only TIM.
> 
> I would also advise against using AS5 though, aside from the fact that it's conductive (meaning that if it gets on those yellow things, game over) it takes time to "heal" and costs too much while giving too little of an advantage. Use non-conductive TIMs that don't need healing time like MX-2/MX-4 for direct-die cooling. No need to spread it yourself, cooler pressure will take care of that, you just need to make sure there is enough to cover the whole die.


They say AS5 isn't conductive but, capacitive. Also that's called burn in time. AS5 gets a like 1c lower after a while. That doesn't bother me I have MX2 also with a carefully eye one can put the exact amount on as to prevent to much excess to touch other important bits. I never spread. People say there is almost no temp difference between spreading and grain methodS, while true there is one major difference.... one dries out quicker.

Does any one convert to direct to die cooling or just plop the lid back on?


----------



## ozlay

hmm if i was going to delid i probably wouldnt put the lid back on


----------



## seaFs

Sometimes the IHS is mounted somewhat ugly and you get lower temperatures just by exchanging the thermal paste under it. Make sure to remove all the black rubber to get maximum pressure on the die. I ran my delidded 4400+ with the lid on it, because of the direct touch heatpipes.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Sometimes the IHS is mounted somewhat ugly and you get lower temperatures just by exchanging the thermal paste under it. Make sure to remove all the black rubber to get maximum pressure on the die. I ran my delidded 4400+ with the lid on it, because of the direct touch heatpipes.


one could sand down the bottom edges of the lid as well to knock it down a few thousandths.


----------



## cssorkinman

I bought a delidded 4400 Toledo. First delid I've been around and I'm shocked at just how thick the lid is on that chip, heavy bugger too. Is the lid on the newer chips such as Thubans and Vishera's of the same thickness?


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> I bought a delidded 4400 Toledo. First delid I've been around and I'm shocked at just how thick the lid is on that chip, heavy bugger too. Is the lid on the newer chips such as Thubans and Vishera's of the same thickness?


http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?256092-Thuban-delidded

http://forum.hwbot.org/showthread.php?t=105896


----------



## seaFs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> one could sand down the bottom edges of the lid as well to knock it down a few thousandths.


There is really no need to do that. When placing the IHS on the core after removing all the black rubber you can easily rotate it. The contact area is just the die, not the organic plate at the edge. So you need to be careful mounting your heat sink, too.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> Does any one convert to direct to die cooling or just plop the lid back on?


All my de-lids are direct die.
Why bother de-lid if you're just going to put it back on? New TIM? Doesn't make that big a difference. Maybe a degree or two. No lid I've seen as much as 20 degrees and average 8-10.


----------



## seaFs

I installed WinXP 64bit Edition on my rig, just for 3DMarks







I t was a pain in the ass to install both WinXP and Win7, the older setup ruined my SSD partition tables a few times and I don't know why or what happened. Well, now it runs and I even tweaked the old OS to keep my SSD calm.

OK, here the 3DMark06 stable clocks: 3165MHz @ 1.6V idle / 1.55V load, sometimes dropping down to 1.536V. I just set the memory timings to something save, nothing tweaked yet. Let's see how far I can push it.
http://valid.canardpc.com/4sefn8
It made 11663 3DMarks
http://oi59.tinypic.com/2q2qwhy.jpg
Temperature was at the edge with above 60°C and CPU fans cycling at 1200rpm.
But new record for me, Win7 scratched at 11k.


----------



## SwishaMane

Well I got my 2x 2GB ECC DDR400 and it isnt working for my board. Just RAM beep on post. I set ECC mode with normal ddr, reset to stock, saved and exit. Beep on post. Reset CMOS, beep on post.

Reset with normal DDR, and adjusted some ECC options, saved, exit. Beep on post.

I don't ave much experience with ECC RAM, but not looking good. ha ha









Even tried one dimm. Beep on post.

And the RAM appears to be like new, its practically mint. I doubt its bad.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Well I got my 2x 2GB ECC DDR400 and it isnt working for my board. Just RAM beep on post. I set ECC mode with normal ddr, reset to stock, saved and exit. Beep on post. Reset CMOS, beep on post.
> 
> Reset with normal DDR, and adjusted some ECC options, saved, exit. Beep on post.
> 
> I don't ave much experience with ECC RAM, but not looking good. ha ha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even tried one dimm. Beep on post.
> 
> And the RAM appears to be like new, its practically mint. I doubt its bad.


Did you get the _*exact*_ RAM seaFs linked to? do you have the same board as him with an E6 CPU? do you have the latest bios?


----------



## seaFs

Swisha has an Opteron 185, which is an E6 (Opteron Denmark core is equal to AthlonX2 Toledo core). I've found ONE post about the DFI nF4 Infinity and ECC and it had a negative result. No post or ECC constantely disabled, even if set to enabled. One user at Hardwareluxx.de mentioned that the ECC option of the DFI Infinity nF4 is broken. Pity, it would've been nice to squeeze everything out of some BGA chips.
I think I'm gonna search for my K8N Neo2 and look if it can use my 8GB. AFAIR it had an ECC DRAM option in the BIOS, but I might be wrong. The manual of that board writes nothing about ECC support. Anyway, I have the Rebels Haven advanced mod bios, which unlocks some fancy options.

[edit] Revived my K8N Neo2. No ECC option in the BIOS, no post with ECC Dimms. Pity. 8GB and AGP would be another senseless quantum leap


----------



## cdoublejj

is it hardware issue or poorly written bios?


----------



## seaFs

Maybe there is an option to get this 2GB DIMMs working without ECC, but I have to check it first on my own. Gonna report later.

[edit]
Here a short summary of what I did today. The main idea behind all of this is to disable the ECC support on startup by removing ECC and 72bit address width from the SPD data.
1.) I went the totally save way to program the SPD by using some tape to disconnect the data wires from the mainboard, leaving 8 pins to read and program the SPD. I used SPDtool to edit the data, with no success.
2.) Plugged in just one 2GB DIMM without tape and tried to program the SPD via SPDtool. Still no success. Any changed value is reported as error, the checksum is invalid, too. SPD EEPROM seems to be write protected. OK, no problem, let's pull the WP-pin to ground. This is nothing new to me, I've read about this function in a thread about bios modding HD6950s to 70s. But before soldering a wire...
3.) Tried another program called Typhoon Burner. Same result, but it revealed the main problem: The SPD EEPROMs are write protected. By software! And it can't be removed. It's caled "Permanent software write protection", which sets the first 128 bytes to read-only.
4.) The last 128 bytes should still be rewritable, so I plugged in my soldering iron and did the pin 7 mod. Still no succes, I can't even change the vendor ID.

Conclusion: The last hope is to solder an empty EEPROM to the DIMMs and program it with the tape method. After that there ist still the question whether the SPD changes will take effect.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Swisha has an Opteron 185, which is an E6 (Opteron Denmark core is equal to AthlonX2 Toledo core). I've found ONE post about the DFI nF4 Infinity and ECC and it had a negative result. No post or ECC constantely disabled, even if set to enabled. One user at Hardwareluxx.de mentioned that the ECC option of the DFI Infinity nF4 is broken.


Yeah, I havent dug too deep into it just yet. That sucks tho. Ive got a spare BIOS chip for this board. I could try something.

Maybe the BIOS for the SLI version of this board? ??


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Yeah, I havent dug too deep into it just yet. That sucks tho. Ive got a spare BIOS chip for this board. I could try something.
> 
> Maybe the BIOS for the SLI version of this board? ??


All the bios's for the Ultra D, SLI D, and SLI DR boards are the same and interchangeable. Only the Expert, Venus, and Infinity are different.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> All the bios's for the Ultra D, SLI D, and SLI DR boards are the same and interchangeable. Only the Expert, Venus, and Infinity are different.


The infinity had the sli and non sli models. 1 16x pci-e (like mine) and one with two 16x pic-e. Maybe the sli version had a different BIOS that JUST MAYBE the ECC works on? ?? lol









BTW, heres the ones I got...


----------



## seaFs

Some progress done. I found and old value 512MB DIMM with UCCCs on it, using an 24C02 SPD chip. It is the previous version of the 34C02 EEPROMs and has no "permanent software write protection" built in. I flashed altered Qimonda SPD data on it, disabling ECC and reducing address width to 64 bits. Of course it won't boot, but at least it works. Now I just have to find raw 34C02 EEPROMs, solder them on the Qimonda DIMMs and... hope that flashing works.
Found some EEPROMs with the same specs made by ROHM, they cost 0.149€ per piece, but shipping is approx 6€. Maybe I need some other stuff, then I'll make the order. I remember I wanted to volt-mod my A8N32...

@Swisha: Yep, they look exactly like my ones. Beauties, aren't they?







Imagine them with some fat heat spreaders^^


----------



## seaFs

Well, some tiny success. Soldered the 24C02 SPD from the 512MB DIMM to one of my 2GB Qimonda chips and flashed the original SPD on it. The Qimonda DIMM runs just fine, so I removed ECC support and reduced address width to 64 bit. DIMM still running, reported as non-ECC in Aida64









Then I plugged it into my trusty K8N Neo2 with an Opty 180. No boot, it hangs when detecting system memory. With a single 1GB DIMM it just boots fine, so the 2GB DIMM is not supported by BIOS, I guess. (edit: Or the nForce3 can't handle 128Mx4 high density modules...)

At least one good thing: I plugged the modded DIMM into my A8N32 with the three other non-modded DIMMs. It boots just fine, I'm typing with this machine right now. When looking into the BIOS, DRAM ECC is greyed out and I can't enable it, so I definitely have a 2GB registered *non-ECC* DIMM now.

Swisha, now it's your turn to swap SPD chips and try it on the DFI Infinity.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Well, some tiny success. Soldered the 24C02 SPD from the 512MB DIMM to one of my 2GB Qimonda chips and flashed the original SPD on it. The Qimonda DIMM runs just fine, so I removed ECC support and reduced address width to 64 bit. DIMM still running, reported as non-ECC in Aida64
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I plugged it into my trusty K8N Neo2 with an Opty 180. No boot, it hangs when detecting system memory. With a single 1GB DIMM it just boots fine, so the 2GB DIMM is not supported by BIOS, I guess. (edit: Or the nForce3 can't handle 128Mx4 high density modules...)
> 
> At least one good thing: I plugged the modded DIMM into my A8N32 with the three other non-modded DIMMs. It boots just fine, I'm typing with this machine right now. When looking into the BIOS, DRAM ECC is greyed out and I can't enable it, so I definitely have a 2GB registered *non-ECC* DIMM now.
> 
> Swisha, now it's your turn to swap SPD chips and try it on the DFI Infinity.


Great stuff! You should write a DIY.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Well, some tiny success. Soldered the 24C02 SPD from the 512MB DIMM to one of my 2GB Qimonda chips and flashed the original SPD on it. The Qimonda DIMM runs just fine, so I removed ECC support and reduced address width to 64 bit. DIMM still running, reported as non-ECC in Aida64
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I plugged it into my trusty K8N Neo2 with an Opty 180. No boot, it hangs when detecting system memory. With a single 1GB DIMM it just boots fine, so the 2GB DIMM is not supported by BIOS, I guess. (edit: Or the nForce3 can't handle 128Mx4 high density modules...)
> 
> At least one good thing: I plugged the modded DIMM into my A8N32 with the three other non-modded DIMMs. It boots just fine, I'm typing with this machine right now. When looking into the BIOS, DRAM ECC is greyed out and I can't enable it, so I definitely have a 2GB registered *non-ECC* DIMM now.
> 
> Swisha, now it's your turn to swap SPD chips and try it on the DFI Infinity.


I have absolutely no idea how to, or the equipment to do so. Soldering I can do tho.







I need 4 of these 2GB dimms modded so i can has 8GB in a s939. Can you dooz it for meh? lol


----------



## seaFs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> I have absolutely no idea how to, or the equipment to do so. Soldering I can do tho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need 4 of these 2GB dimms modded so i can has 8GB in a s939. Can you dooz it for meh? lol


And you think I had any idea how to do that?







No, my dear, it was just trial and fortunately no error.
I used really simple tools: a 30W soldering iron with standard tip (bought for 5 bucks, the cheapest I could get), tweezers (I love tweezers for virtually all small works), some tape and scissors.
You must have this at home^^

But I admit that I did some SMD soldering before, so this wasn't a totally new task for me.
The hardest part is to desolder the SPD EEPROM chip without damaging the PCB, conductor paths and surrounding SMD parts. Placing the EEPROM on the other DIMM and soldering it is very easy. Like every soldering work, it only relies on a steady hand. To ease you, since this is spare RAM for playing around there shouldn't be much pressure for you. I'll look if I can make some photos for you in the next days. All the soldering took me about 1 hour, faster than I thought.
Flashing the SPD is nothing that can harm the PC. If it goes wrong, simply do it again. If the PC crashes, do it again. This is ridiculous


----------



## dlee7283

if anybody needs some 1gb sticks of ddr-400 please pm me, just laying around collecting dust and I need some more ram for my current computer


----------



## cdoublejj

does the ECC truly work when it is enabled? i wonder if it can correct errors that would other wise make an overlcokc fail stress testing?


----------



## seaFs

All my results are without ECC. The performance impact is measurable in terms of less bandwidth (less than 1%, so in margin of error), but not in gaming or every-day work.
My first experience with ECC was not that good, so I disabled it again. Now I think it wasn't the RAM, but my CPU that ran at the edge of stability. Today I enabled ECC again. Maybe it prevents some game crashes that occasionally happen (especially Rainbow Six Vegas 2).

Did I mention that this CF-5 server DIMMs can do CL2 at DDR400?


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> And you think I had any idea how to do that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, my dear, it was just trial and fortunately no error.
> I used really simple tools: a 30W soldering iron with standard tip (bought for 5 bucks, the cheapest I could get), tweezers (I love tweezers for virtually all small works), some tape and scissors.
> You must have this at home^^
> 
> But I admit that I did some SMD soldering before, so this wasn't a totally new task for me.
> The hardest part is to desolder the SPD EEPROM chip without damaging the PCB, conductor paths and surrounding SMD parts. Placing the EEPROM on the other DIMM and soldering it is very easy. Like every soldering work, it only relies on a steady hand. To ease you, since this is spare RAM for playing around there shouldn't be much pressure for you. I'll look if I can make some photos for you in the next days. All the soldering took me about 1 hour, faster than I thought.
> Flashing the SPD is nothing that can harm the PC. If it goes wrong, simply do it again. If the PC crashes, do it again. This is ridiculous


I would love to try this, but IDK how to do it, lol. Ive got the tools. I just dont know what SPD to switch it with, how to flash that, etc. Would be super awesome to fudge with tho.

EDIT: I'll tell you what tho. If you spend the (probably) couple hours writing a start to finish tutorial for me. Few pics where needed, etc. I promise I will attempt do this. I have the two 2GB ECC dimms, and a couple spare DDR400 512mb dimms I could spare. Even willing to throw a few bucks at some stuff.

Write it up. I'll do it.









4 to *8GB* RAM in a s939 will be like future proofing it / dragging it my its nails into the modern computing era.

Im also considering a new, more power efficient GPU. This gtx260 isnt doing me any favors... AND contemplated the idea of getting the SLi revision of this board and trying some mid level sli... ?? Worth it?

Heres my spare RAM. All 256MB, all single sided except the heatsink Corsair XMS. IS the SPD the small 8 or 10 pin IC? Thats EZ mode.









Always use 15w soldering iron for PCBs. 30w, no wonder the traces lifted. Scary...


----------



## seaFs

Nice collection








OK, before we start at all you have to check for the SPD EEPROM chips used on your spare memory. All SPD chips have 8 pins. As far as I can see on your pictures the Infineon, the no-name and the two Samsung DIMMs have TSSOP-8 SPD chips. This is the design size of the chips, which is what we need.

If you are not sure, have a look at the front side of the reg ECC DIMMs (the side with the white label on it). There is a TSSOP-8 chip with (you guessed it) 8 pins, next to the twisted square chip in the middle. Its name is *34C02I*.
The name says that it is an EEPROM of family 34 with 256 bytes memory.


Now look at your spare DIMMs if you find something with the same measurements and post the names of the chips. If there is a "34" within the name of the chips, then they belong to the "evil" family 34 EEPROMs with "permanent software write protection" (PSWP) and we can't use them. If there is a 24 in the name, they are family 24, which is good. This is the predecessor of the family 34 chips and does not have PSWP.

After you checked this we can proceed


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Nice collection
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK, before we start at all you have to check for the SPD EEPROM chips used on your spare memory. All SPD chips have 8 pins. As far as I can see on your pictures the Infineon, the no-name and the two Samsung DIMMs have TSSOP-8 SPD chips. This is the design size of the chips, which is what we need.
> 
> If you are not sure, have a look at the front side of the reg ECC DIMMs (the side with the white label on it). There is a TSSOP-8 chip with (you guessed it) 8 pins, next to the twisted square chip in the middle. Its name is *34C02I*.
> The name says that it is an EEPROM of family 34 with 256 bytes memory.
> 
> 
> Now look at your spare DIMMs if you find something with the same measurements and post the names of the chips. If there is a "34" within the name of the chips, then they belong to the "evil" family 34 EEPROMs with "permanent software write protection" (PSWP) and we can't use them. If there is a 24 in the name, they are family 24, which is good. This is the predecessor of the family 34 chips and does not have PSWP.
> 
> After you checked this we can proceed


No Name
A0A8
34Y02

Infineon PC2700
C1
AT34

Samsung PC3200
45C
34F021

Looks like its all bunk. What about SDRAM, like PC100? Or DDR2?


----------



## SwishaMane

Ok, so I just found 11 more random dimms laying around the house. PC100, laptop , DDR2, and only 2 have a SPD without 34 in it. lol

No name laptop
_??_
AT02

SEC PC100
S52
268B

I would probably just opt to purchase the IC new. Less error during transplant.


----------



## seaFs

I have no SD or DDR2 memory around here. But try it, have a look. Family 24 and 256 bytes memory are the important things.

[edit]
AT02 is an Atmel 34C02, so nothing you can use.
I find nothing useful for S52 268B...

OK, then search for some raw EEPROMs








Filters you should use for your favourite parts reseller:
- EEPROM (!)
- TSSOP-8 (!)
- look for "24" and "02" in the part name. Everything else in the part name is just vendor specific blahblah.
"24" meaning "family 24" and "02" meaning "256 byte memory". They all are organized the same way as 256 x 8 bits and use 1.7 - 5V supply voltage, so the vendor is irrelevant and pin assignment will always be the same.

http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/1085292/EEPROM-24LC02B-IST-TSSOP-8-Microchip-Technology?ref=list
German site, but you probably get what I mean. Shipping fee will be higher than the value of the chips


----------



## blooder11181

"if anybody needs some 1gb sticks of ddr-400 please pm me, just laying around collecting dust and I need some more ram for my current computer redface.gif"
me. damn so far


----------



## SwishaMane

How do you flash the RAM SPD?

What about...

http://www.newark.com/atmel/at24c02c-xhm-b/eeprom-2kbit-i2c-tssop-8/dp/68T4069?CMP=KNC-GPLA


----------



## seaFs

Yep, but you can have it a bit cheaper








http://www.newark.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Search?catalogId=15003&langId=-1&storeId=10194&sort=P_PRICE&st=eeprom%20tssop-8&pageSize=25&showResults=true&pf=811872600

First off, make a backup of the SPD data. Simply read and save the SPD to a file with SPDtool. I recommend to save every single DIMMs SPD to a new file, because serial numbers and production weeks are stored there. These data will be the only way to distinguish the memory sticks.

You can flash the SPD when it is soldered to the DIMM. It is the same procedure as for "reviving" broken SPDs when you tried to use clockgen and CPUz on a Pentium-M with some... Intel chipset.
Well, basically you use tape and isolate almost all pins of the DDR DIMM. Except for contacts 89-92 and 181-184.At every edge of the DIMM the pin number is written down (1, 92, 93 and 184). Just leave 4 pins at each side of the same edge open and tape the rest. Make sure to cut out the notch, otherwise you can't plug in the DIMM into the mainboard.

Put in the DIMM when the PC is powered off. Then release the untaped side, but let the taped side plugged in. This might hurt a bit when looking at, but it is save.







No contact between DIMM and mainboard. Power on the PC, boot into windows, then push the DIMM completeley into the slot.
This way you prevent the BIOS from hanging when detecting memory. Windows does not give a damn about SPD, the memory stick is invisible, because no address and data wires are connected.
Now open SPDtool and you should be able to flash back the backup to the empty SPD.
SPD tool is pretty much self explaining. Plug in some DIMMs with family 34 EEPROMs and play a bit, you can't do something wrong. The only message you'll get is "flashing failed" and "checksum error", because it is write protected. First thing you could try is to change vendor ID, fix the checksum (there is an extra menu option for fixing) and save it. This way you can "build" a Qimonda DIMM that is labeled "Samsung". Just cosmetic, of course


----------



## SwishaMane

So I tried launching SPD Tool 0.63 on my main here and it errored out immediatly saying no memory modules were found. I have all 4 populated on my AMD machine here. Said it cant read or write. Can I expect this for the 939 too?

EDIT: OK, I tried it, and it worked. You're lucky. lol







I stoked to try this. Im hesitant on the taping certain pins and not others.

EDIT 2: Ok, Im re-re-reading this topic and I think I understand completely. Doesn't seem too difficult. After looking at the pins and marks it came together.

After plugging taped dimm into motherboard after windows boot (is win7 fine for SPD flash?) If Windows doesnt recognize the added dimm, how can SPD Tool recognize it to flash? And are those connected 8 pins all thats needed to flash?

This is leading edge homebrew science...


----------



## seaFs

Yep, Windows 7 is OK. I did it with Windows 7 x64 Ultimate, but I use the hidden administrator account, because the UAC is annoying. So basically I'm always running SPDtool as administrator.
Windows does not see the memroy, because you isolated all data, address, ground, power and control wires fo the DIMM, but not the SPD connectors. The BIOS checks all the connectors, so it hangs when trying to make sense of the SPD data. That's why we connect the DIMM when the BIOS is through. You can plug in the DIMM at windows startup, too.
SPDtool then reads all the data through the 8 connected pins, everything else is not important. You can check it with CPU-z or Aida64, both programs will report SPD data, but no installed memory. Yes, they will show the size of the memory stick, but this is written down in the SPD data, too. The Windows task manager won't show any additional RAM available.

Try soldering an SPD chip with an old DIMM. Mount the DIMM between to heavy books two fix it. This way you have both hands free and the DIMM won't moving around as you torture it. I used tweezers to pull the SPD chip up, away from the PCB, and heated all 4 pins of one side of the EEPROM at once. You need to pull with some force. When the tin is melted, the heated side will move up a bit. Pull just as much as it needs to lose contact to the tin until all pins are disconnected in the air. I guess 2 or 3 mm will do, preventing the 4 pins of the other side to break off. Then heat the remaining 4 pins and pull the EEPROM off of the PCB. This second step is much easier.
Afterwards clean the pins of the chip and the lands of PCB, remove remaining tin as much as possible. The tin residue should be enough to solder a new chip. I didn't even use any extra flux, just the solder with "integrated flux" (sorry, I don't know the correct expression for this in English). After that check for short cuts with a multimeter and check connection of the EPPROM pins with pins 89-92 and 181-184. Don't worry, somehow not all chip pins seem to make contact to the DIMM connectors, at least I culdn't measure it. My modded DIMM works good anyway.


----------



## cdoublejj

is it possible to replace the 34 chips that are un flash able with a different SPD chip of donor ram?


----------



## seaFs

Donor RAM?
Well, as long as you can write to the chip, you could do it. Unfortunately you can't use SPDtool to check if the EEPROM is write protected by hardware (this is pin #7 of the EEPROM chip) or by software (PSWP). Both methods result in a non-rewritabel chip. That's why swisha had to check the names of the SPD chips to check if they are family 24 or 34. But if you can write to the chip and change e.g. the vendor ID to something different you are good to go that the chip is not write protected at all.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Donor RAM?
> Well, as long as you can write to the chip, you could do it. Unfortunately you can't use SPDtool to check if the EEPROM is write protected by hardware (this is pin #7 of the EEPROM chip) or by software (PSWP). Both methods result in a non-rewritabel chip. That's why swisha had to check the names of the SPD chips to check if they are family 24 or 34. But if you can write to the chip and change e.g. the vendor ID to something different you are good to go that the chip is not write protected at all.


Donor ram: ram that can have parts robbed off it and that nobody cares about.... as in parts donor or organ donor.


----------



## SwishaMane

Well, I feel 100% confident that I can do this just fine. I'll acquire the raw new SPDs sometime soon. Practice desoldering one or two off some bunk RAM, and give it a go on the Quimonda (after read and save SPD of course.) As for the tape and flash part. Seems pretty straight forward, I just need to know what fields to modify. Address width from 72 to 64 bit? What else?

Can I get screenshots and etc?

Order of process... Is this correct?


Acquire new raw SPDs...
Tape ECC RAM, except for the 8 needed pins to read SPD.
Read and save ECC RAM SPD per dimm.
Desolder ECC SPD, re-solder new RAW SPD, and flash with that dimms saved and modified SPD file.
??
Profit.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> I remember I wanted to volt-mod my A8N32...


I ran a v-modded ASUS A8N-E. It was the only mobo I could find that could boot my dual-core s939 ES I had. 1.81vCore baby! I can help you v-mod that board if you need. I might be bale to find the info i used to v-mod the A8N-E. I assume both boards use same setup for CPU VRMs.


----------



## seaFs

Change "Module Data Width" from "72" to "64" and "DIMM error detection/correction features" from "ECC" to "none". I do hope this is all we need.
Your step-by-step order is correct. You can read and save the original SPD data without taping.

About A8N-E: This board is one of the first cycles of Asus' nForce4 boards, while the A8N32 was the last one they created. Moreover my board uses 8-phase VRM, the A8N-E 3 phases. But I'm interested in your mod, anyway. It can't be that different. I volt-modded some GPUs a while back with questionable success, though...

@cdoublejj: I disabled ECC once again and for all now. The system becomes instable when enabling it, resulting in blue screens and memory corruption.
I have two explanations for this.
1) The increased data transfer (12.5% more) stress the memory controller too much. And the IMC of my Athlon64 is not the best, it's just the core that clocks pretty well.
2) The DIMM itself doesn't like the high clocks. Either the 9th memory chip is bad or the registered buffer chip is at its limits. Maybe relaxed timings can help for this, but then I don't need ECC anymore...

Oh, wait, reason number 3 just came to my mind: I have all 4 slots populated. Interference or something like that might corrupt data.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Change "Module Data Width" from "72" to "64" and "DIMM error detection/correction features" from "ECC" to "none". I do hope this is all we need.
> Your step-by-step order is correct. You can read and save the original SPD data without taping.


My board wont boot with my normal DDR in with an ECC module connected. I tried it when i was testing th eECC before. It just beeps. Figured Id have to tape it to even read the SPD.

But cool, I think I have a grasp on this, and quite definitely will do this.







Wish me luck. Will order the SPDs tonight, and hopefully be modding by Fri. next week. Before i order them, I'll PROBABLY try to read the SPDs on the dimms first and get that successful befor ei spend the money on parts I might not e bale to use, depending on what happens.

I BETTER NOT BLOW MY MOBO!


----------



## seaFs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> I BETTER NOT BLOW MY MOBO!


And in case you do go for an A8N32


----------



## SwishaMane

OK, just ordered the SPDs. I went with an Atmel 24 C02. Its 400khz like SPD on my dimms, 256x8. Should work perfect.

What are the realistic chances of 4 x4GB ECC converted non-ECC RAM in a s939 for 16GB RAM? RIDICULOUS!


----------



## seaFs

While 2GB DIMMs are pretty affordable, the 4GB DIMMs are expensive. 15€ per piece was the cheapest I could find. Not that charming compared to 5€ for a 2GB DIMM.
And first I'd like to know if those low-profile 4GB stacked DIMMs fit into a the normal mainboard slots, because they look pretty thick. Furthermore it's even more logic that wants to be stable at higher clocks, not to think about the heat they produce.
But first things first: let's see if you can convince a DFI board to accept "ecc" memory. If that works, maybe I'll look for Lanparty. I WANT to play with TRef and make 8GB run 1:1 @ 273MHz^^


----------



## SwishaMane

Yeah, Im not trying to get ahead, I just want to get two 2GB dimms to work first. And at 1:1 ddr400 is fine with me for the extra memory. My 2x1GB now only does 245Mhz @ 2.8v. 200-220 wouldnt offend me for 4GB, shoot, with prospect of 8GB MAYBE... PSSSHHT.

4 of these on that 8GB...

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8316/ram-xil-01/Xilence_Passive_Heatpipe_DDR_RAM_Cooler_HP_XPRAMHP.html?tl=g40c18s236&id=4S3C5DvA


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> While 2GB DIMMs are pretty affordable, the 4GB DIMMs are expensive. 15€ per piece was the cheapest I could find. Not that charming compared to 5€ for a 2GB DIMM.
> And first I'd like to know if those low-profile 4GB stacked DIMMs fit into a the normal mainboard slots, because they look pretty thick. Furthermore it's even more logic that wants to be stable at higher clocks, not to think about the heat they produce.
> But first things first: let's see if you can convince a DFI board to accept "ecc" memory. If that works, maybe I'll look for Lanparty. I WANT to play with TRef and make 8GB run 1:1 @ 273MHz^^


I've never seen a 4gb DDR1 dim before. i didn't even think they ever made any. I've only seen 4gb ddr2 to date. doesn't mean it doesn't exist it just means i haven't seen one yet.


----------



## seaFs

Check this out.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/8GB-IBM-DDR-400MHz-PC3200R-184-Pin-CL3-ECC-Registered-RAM-2x-4GB-/360876823753?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_MemoryRAM_JN&hash=item5405ef54c9
It's stacked DRAM. Two memory ICs are put on top of each other to increase size, but not space. Well, those DIMMs are thicker than standard DIMMs, and seem to be low profile for blade servers.


----------



## SwishaMane

What you're looking at here is one of my 4 x 1GB DDR1 266, PC2100 ECC dimms I have. Matching set of 4 for my old dual socket Tyan Athlon MP server board. Board is shot. Athlon MP had its own power supply spec, and the board was damaged before I acquired the 24 pin adapter to run it at MP spec.

You can see the double stacked nature of the RAM ICs, and how they are soldered directly to each other. Its cool.

This RAM also has family 24 SPDs... Go figure. Should I boot these in my 939? LOL


----------



## SwishaMane

Ok, so since discovering these PC2100 ECC dimms are 24 W02 SPDs (IDK whats different about C02 vs. W02), Ive decided to start messing with this and getting rdy for when the blank SPDs arrive and this goes live with real RAM.

I taped the one ECC dimm, got PC rdy, and booted windows. Fully connected ECC dimm, and launched SPDTool. Changed the two fields. Save and write. Reset computer after removing tape with just ECC dimm installed. RAM beep. Set BIOS to 133Mhz with normal RAM, reset with ECC, still beep. I dont think my Infinity is going to accept an ECC stick in general. It could be plenty of factors tho. Im still going to try it with the 2GB ECC, but not looking favorable.


----------



## seaFs

Just killed my delidded Opteron 180 with an incautios mount







Some tiny corner broke off. Well, the lost is not that big, it wasn't as good as my 4400. Hit 3GHz, but with 1.45V -.-
So my test rig isn't anymore.

Anyway, there are two things that make me wonder in the SPD data.
1) All my Qimonda DIMMs are labelled as UDIMM (byte #20, "DIMM Type") and
2) "Error Checking SDRAM Width" is set to "4" (byte #14).
Maybe this prevented my K8N Neo2 from finding the memory. (change it to "RDIMM" and "0" ?)
What is programmed to your PC2100 DIMMs?


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Just killed my delidded Opteron 180 with an incautios mount
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some tiny corner broke off. Well, the lost is not that big, it wasn't as good as my 4400. Hit 3GHz, but with 1.45V -.-
> So my test rig isn't anymore.
> 
> Anyway, there are two things that make me wonder in the SPD data.
> 1) All my Qimonda DIMMs are labelled as UDIMM (byte #20, "DIMM Type") and
> 2) "Error Checking SDRAM Width" is set to "4" (byte #14).
> Maybe this prevented my K8N Neo2 from finding the memory. (change it to "RDIMM" and "0" ?)
> What is programmed to your PC2100 DIMMs?


UDIMM and '4'

I read the SPD of my normal RAM and its set for UDIMM.


----------



## SwishaMane

Ok, so a few posts up, I attached pics of my dual socket Athlon-MP server mobo. WELL, I got bored after messing with failure to boot PC2100 after modding the SPD (for the s939 rig) and decided to give this old mobo a chance. Found a PSU, got all the cables connected, did a quick run over of everything, and wham, powered her up.

Well, the PC2100 ECC RAM that CAME with that board, that USED to run in that board fine, doesn't allow it to post, and it beeps short 4 times. Memory error of some sort. Try just one dimm, same ish.

Threw one of those 2GB DDR400 ECC dimms in there, and low and behold, she posts! BUT, the memory scan sometimes freezes during POST, and sometimes it finishes memory test, but still freezes. I've known this board was trouble since I found out Athlon-MP had its own power supply spec. (its like ATX, but with some wires moved). Booting a normal PSU on this board results in coil whine from the board and PSU, and I think doing that is what screwed the board, a long time ago back when I first got it. BUT, the mobo did run at one time, but it was extremely sluggish.

Moral of the story is, the dang mobo actually tried to post and run with the DDR400 ECC, so I'm gonna look into it. Im gonna remove everything from the board and giver her a wash, lol. The CPUs will be reset (re-seated) because of that, with fresh TIM. New CMOS battery. Gonna try a better PSU. I might even get my old server case cleaned up, and get this mobo back installed if she tries to run good after cleaning and everything.

Wish me luck! If the board is shot, it could be replaced for $25 on eBay. BUT, if the RAM it came with is shot for sure, then I dont see an investment being worth it. Even for the sake of reviving an old setup.

Just for fun guys, just for fun.


----------



## BritishBob

If you get it working, just don't switch it off. I may never turn back on.


----------



## seaFs

Did you flash the PC2100 RDIMMs back to ECC and 72bit? Maybe the AthlonMP board doesn't like non-ECC.
Anyway, you can try swapping the SPD chips from the PC2100 to the 2GB PC3200 DIMMs. They seem to be compatbile (looks like TSSOP-8, family 24, 02 = 256bytes memory). The difference between C02 and W02 is just the vendor specific name scheme.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Did you flash the PC2100 RDIMMs back to ECC and 72bit? Maybe the AthlonMP board doesn't like non-ECC.
> Anyway, you can try swapping the SPD chips from the PC2100 to the 2GB PC3200 DIMMs. They seem to be compatbile (looks like TSSOP-8, family 24, 02 = 256bytes memory). The difference between C02 and W02 is just the vendor specific name scheme.


Ive alrdy ordered the raw SPDs, and received them yesterday. 6 of them just in case. The RDIMM vs UDIMM 0 , 4 thing didnt work. And i did flash my PC2100 back to default.

I just washed the board yesterday, and let it dry overnight. About to put her all back together today and try to boot. I fried one of my 10 3-pin fan connectors. When it first boot, I didnt notice the pins had gotten bent into each other. When it powered on, the fan connector sparked, and 3 seconds later the onboard fuse popped to protect the board and PSU. lol, so i'm out one of my infinity amount of fan connectors on this mobo. That was first boot other day, it didnt damage the board in a way that affects the running of the system.





So yeah, at some point soon I should be able to get to de-soldering the SPD, and soldering the new SPDs. I'm going to just do both DDR400 ECC dimms at same time, and flash the modded data right off the bat first time. If it don't work, I'll re-flash the default, and try them in my dual socket mobo one at a time (given that actually tries to work still) to get them back to normal in case the mod doesn't work for my DFI. Of course, I ALSO could sell the modded 2GB ECC dimms to someone with a mobo that will boot them,and YOU could have 4GB DDR400 in only two dimm slots. OR, since I have 6 of these blank SPDS, I could always do 8GB for someone.









Any other settings in the SPD that could help force the DDR to boot? I couldn't help but wonder if I (for the sake of science) tried copying all the settings of a normal DDR400 dimm onto the ECC SPD? Sounds far fetched, but eh. IDK much about this still, yet.

EDIT: So yeah, the dual socket combo is done. It wouldn't boot, the LAN leds just flashed repeatedly every 3 seconds telling me the board was resetting. The CPU coolers never got hot, so the CPUs never turned on. Its just. Junk. I think I'll keep the CPUs and coolers and RAM, just because. But the board will be tossed.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Ive alrdy ordered the raw SPDs, and received them yesterday. 6 of them just in case. The RDIMM vs UDIMM 0 , 4 thing didnt work. And i did flash my PC2100 back to default.
> 
> I just washed the board yesterday, and let it dry overnight. About to put her all back together today and try to boot. I fried one of my 10 3-pin fan connectors. When it first boot, I didnt notice the pins had gotten bent into each other. When it powered on, the fan connector sparked, and 3 seconds later the onboard fuse popped to protect the board and PSU. lol, so i'm out one of my infinity amount of fan connectors on this mobo. That was first boot other day, it didnt damage the board in a way that affects the running of the system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So yeah, at some point soon I should be able to get to de-soldering the SPD, and soldering the new SPDs. I'm going to just do both DDR400 ECC dimms at same time, and flash the modded data right off the bat first time. If it don't work, I'll re-flash the default, and try them in my dual socket mobo one at a time (given that actually tries to work still) to get them back to normal in case the mod doesn't work for my DFI. Of course, I ALSO could sell the modded 2GB ECC dimms to someone with a mobo that will boot them,and YOU could have 4GB DDR400 in only two dimm slots. OR, since I have 6 of these blank SPDS, I could always do 8GB for someone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any other settings in the SPD that could help force the DDR to boot? I couldn't help but wonder if I (for the sake of science) tried copying all the settings of a normal DDR400 dimm onto the ECC SPD? Sounds far fetched, but eh. IDK much about this still, yet.
> 
> EDIT: So yeah, the dual socket combo is done. It wouldn't boot, the LAN leds just flashed repeatedly every 3 seconds telling me the board was resetting. The CPU coolers never got hot, so the CPUs never turned on. Its just. Junk. I think I'll keep the CPUs and coolers and RAM, just because. But the board will be tossed.


IS that the board you cleaned? you either have wet spots or have washed dust and debri some where and caused a short. (i say this from experience)


----------



## seaFs

Uhm, don't want to disappoint ypu, Swisha, but it seems as if you ordered the wrong EEPROMs. They look like TSOP, not TSSOP. Will be difficult, but not impossible, to solder them onto the 2GB DIMMs. The distance between the pins of the chip is much wider at TSOP than at TSSOP. Correct me if I'm wrong. At least I hope so.

I also thought about some other settings to make the DIMMs boot, but couldn't find any. I even read some papers at the official JEDEC site about SPD v1.0, but found nothing that caught my eye.

Writing a non-ECC non-reg SPD to the 2GB DIMMs won't help in any way, because all the timings and adress settings are wrong. Just have a look at all the nanoseconds stuff. I can only guess what all those values might do. But it might be interesting to compare them to some UDIMM SPD for better understanding.


----------



## SwishaMane

Youre right, they dont match. Thats some BS, but w/e...

If i attempt to do this still, I will use the SPDs off the PC2100 then.

EDIT: Ok, so I am going to do this then. With one dimm to start. I am right now, about to start de-soldering the PC2100 SPD, then the ECC, then solder flashable SPD to ECC.

The ECC dimm already has a backup of the SPD, and a modded flash with the initial settings.

We'll see...


----------



## seaFs

I'm curious. IF that really works, this is a quanum leap in old 939







And perhaps for other sockets and DDR2/DDR3, too.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> I'm curious. IF that really works, this is a quanum leap in old 939
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And perhaps for other sockets and DDR2/DDR3, too.


The s939 community is going to explode when they see us at 8 and 16GB DDR500 2-2-2-5, lol. j/k of course, but fun. I am half done, SPD's de-soldered easier than I thought...


----------



## SwishaMane

So my first attempt was foiled when i accidentally soldered the SPD on backwards. NOT upside down, just turned wrong way, LOL

Fixed it, soldering job was even better, and it reads and is flashable. First flash did not work, long memory beep code, no boot. About to flash with extra mods to SPD, but not looking good. It would work for you seaFs, on that board you got, but I dont think on my DFI Infinity it is going to work. SPD switch is working tho.









EDIT: Second flash didnt boot the dimm either.

64-bit from 72-bit
ECC mode - none
UDIMM remained same
SDRAM width 0, from 4

Did not boot for me, but flashing works, so this mod is successful for the dimm, just not my mobo specifically.


----------



## seaFs

Last try: Plug in two DIMMs. Some 939 mainboards require two memory sticks installed to run, don't ask why.


----------



## SwishaMane

My board doesn't. I can run with one stick easily. But will boot it alongside my normal ddr just for kicks... I just think its too old to recognize the double density. It is a mobo from late 2004 or early 2005. I mean, damn, it is SUPER old, even for the socket.

I'm actually wondering if maybe I used a 2GB ECC dimm made from the same type of ICs MOST normal DDR400 used, the long rectangle ICs, not the small square ones. I dont know what the technical difference is, but maybe? All DRR400 Ive ever used is long ICs. These DDR400 ECC dimms seems to use the same ICs that DDR2/3 like to use, the compressed small square chips.

I'm not too inclined on RAM, so maybe I just look dumb saying that. The PC2100 I have is the long ICs, BUT, they ARE also double stacked, AND aren't really thought to be in working condition anyway. I am however VERY interested in getting this system full up on as much RAM as she'll take, if i have to go 4x 1GB, and reduce my system to DDR333 speeds, and hope I can OC to DDR400 speed.

If so, I probably will.


----------



## seaFs

The long ICs are called TSOP package (thin smalll out line). The square ones "BGA" (ball grid array). The former has all the connectors outisde, which consumes more space, but you can easily solder it, while the latter have all contacts under the IC and need other techniques of soldering (reflow soldering without a melted tin bath). This reflow soldering is done in big ovens, where the whole electronic part is heated for several seconds up to 250°C. You can read about this soldering times in data sheets of ICs, but those high temperatures have really nothing to do with operating temperatures, which are mostly below 80°C for an infinite time.

While (almost?) all TSOP memory ICs are ordered as 64Mx8 memory configuration (meaning it has 8 bit data width per memory chip) and will be accepted by definitely every mainboard/chipset you can imagine, the BGA chips are certainly 128Mx4 (4 bits data width) configuration. This allows much higher densities and thus higher amounts of memory per IC, but also needs special support by the chipset. It is not officially mentioned in the JEDEC memory specifications. Sometimes mainboards only recognize half the memory (because of 8 vs 4 bits data width, so only the first half of the memory will be recognized by older chipsets). But most certainly the mainbaord won't POST. Strangely enough, the nForce 3 and nForce4 chipsets are ready for high densitiy modules, that's why I don't understand this behaviour.

Running 4x1GB UDIMM with 400MHz should not be a problem. Set 2T Command Rate and relax CAS Latency, if it won't boot. I can run 4x1GB OCZ PC3200 Platinum 2-3-2-5 CR2 at 400MHz. Even 433MHz was possible with 2.5-3-3-6-CR2, then my 8 GBs came. Best I've read about was 274MHz 3-3-3-8-CR2 4x1GB on a Lanparty nF4. Sick stuff with an FX-57 @ 3GHz


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> The long ICs are called TSOP package (thin smalll out line). The square ones "BGA" (ball grid array). The former has all the connectors outisde, which consumes more space, but you can easily solder it, while the latter have all contacts under the IC and need other techniques of soldering (reflow soldering without a melted tin bath). This reflow soldering is done in big ovens, where the whole electronic part is heated for several seconds up to 250°C. You can read about this soldering times in data sheets of ICs, but those high temperatures have really nothing to do with operating temperatures, which are mostly below 80°C for an infinite time....


Also known as "the oven trick".


----------



## cdoublejj

I do re flows with an SMD station and a griddle for pre heating (to reduce warping) and flux.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> I do re flows with an SMD station and a griddle for pre heating (to reduce warping) and flux.


I usually use a heatgun.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> I usually use a heatgun.


the problem with only 1 heat source is, is part of the PCB gets hot and expands more than the rest of the PCB, even if you wave the gun around which also causes another problem, it keeps the unsteady and and uneven Because you are waving the gun around trying to keep it all hot the heat can't be "concentrated" to keep the temperature steady.

If you watch those re flow machines you will see the temperature profile, they keep steady temp that steadily increases. So with only 1 heat source and non adjustable, not low and high, with knob, in 1 and 2 degree increments, you face several problems.

1. no heat adjustment, either too much or too little.

2. You are either going to cause un even expansion which IS bad or have uneven heating.

3. aside form an too you lack heat from BOTH side of the chip, heat on the bottom and top of the cheap helps it hold the heat better and thusly get the BGA hotter for a throughal reflow and melting of the solder. This is also the something the oven achieves really well too.

Another advantage of setup like mine is being to inject flux into the BGA, which i suppose with the right apparel is possible in the oven as well and of course doable with heat gun as well. However I'd lean more on the side that you may be causing more harm than good, Not to insult you but, the approach/technique of using just a heat gun i usually consider using a heat gun with out pre heater butchering/butchery it's more ham fisted approach to something that really should have more detail.finesse.


----------



## vladv

Anybody care to share / send it to me thru PM the "Definitive AMD OC'ing guide" document / ebook which was originaly made on DFI-Street support forum? Thanks guys!


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vladv*
> 
> Anybody care to share / send it to me thru PM the "Definitive AMD OC'ing guide" document / ebook which was originaly made on DFI-Street support forum? Thanks guys!


IF you get this, please link it for us to DL too. Theres only a couple guys here who were there in those days.


----------



## seaFs

You mean this one?
http://forums.overclockersclub.com/index.php?showtopic=100835


----------



## SwishaMane

I totally just rendered that entire page to pdf (37 pages) so I dont ever lose it, lol... Good job seaFs. And yeah, 8GB s939 here I come too.

seaFs realy saving the s939 boat past couple weeks.









EDIT: Actually, in order to render the whole page without cutoff, it had to be made 11x17, and rendered as 22 pages, 1.09GB of data. LOL, but came out just over 42MB as a pdf. Good stuff.


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

Man, I want 8 GB s939! Man, that would definitely put my Opty back into daily use. I love this club


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> IF you get this, please link it for us to DL too. Theres only a couple guys here who were there in those days.


I was there.









That's the correct document. Nice find.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> I was there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's the correct document. Nice find.


I knew you were Mr. Scott. Wasn't Bones thurr too? Or w/e he goes by now-a-days.









Im going to be working on acquiring a A8N32 mobo, the 4x2GB Quimonda ECC DDR400, and a new GPU for my s939 rig.

I'll probably have my current parts for sale in next couple weeks. If anyone's interested (pure interest, not selling right now) the parts will be the modded DFI Ultra Infinity (sata II btw and passive VRM cooling), 2x1GB Corsair XMS Platinum (ddr500 @ 2.8v, 3-3-3-7-7-1t, and my eVGA GTX 260 C216 w/ arctic acellero cooler (702core stable.)

The sale of these parts (in due time) will go directly to the new s939 parts.

BTW seaFs, I (and others eventually) aren't trying to copy cat you, but since discovering the capability of 8GBs RAM on a s939, you must've known everyone here was going to want to do that.









Especially since you got all 4 dimms at 1t AND DDR500 spec. Thats epic. BTW, we WILL be benching toe-to-toe once I get a carbon copy setup to yours. I'm on water tho. ARE U!?!?!?!?!?!!!!?!!1111!?!?!?!!


----------



## seaFs

Nope, no water. Just a delidded X2 4400, a lapped IFX-14 and some Arctic MX-2 under it . Benchstable at approx. 3150MHz.
I'm not sure if a new GPU will be that of an investment. I use a HD4890 (equal to GTX275-280), but it is underclocked to 600MHz GPU/800MHz RAM. That should meet your GTX260-216 pretty well. Still the CPU is limiting almost every game and the GPU is at about 80% load. So still some headroom for AA and AF








Anyway, I'd recommend an AMD GPU to you. The nVidia drivers seem to need a 4 threads to get good results and are held back by CPUs sporting only two processor threads. (some driver issue...)


----------



## SwishaMane

The video card was my last worry. Main reason would be to reduce power consumption, save a little room in my case, and have the most up-to-date video encoding, built in HDMI out, etc (260 needs to use DVI to hdmi adapter, and patch audio out (coaxial Digital) on mobo to audio in on video card, blah blah, etc)...

My main focus is the mobo and RAM first, then newer GPU for above reasons.

EDIT: And btw, my s939 rig is primarily a HTPC, but gets used extensively for emulation. NES, SNES, Genesis and Sega CD, you name it. It does NOT need crazy GPU horsepower. Im not trying to play Crysis 3 on it. BUT, with 8GB RAM and the SSD, I just might try... MWAH HA HA HA HAAAAAAAAa


----------



## seaFs

Yes, it looks a bit messy, but the airflow is good and most of the cables are hidden behind the mainboard tray.


Now some images of the A8N32 bios.


8192MB installed, 8192MB usable.


The memory does not need high voltage, in fact it totally hates more than 2.8V, making it almost instantly crash, certainly because of heat problems. Most important: Clock skew settings! It took me 2 or 3 days to figure out which settings per channel (!) are best. Auto sets both channel A and B to delay 300ps, which is the wrong direction. Advance 300ps grants best stability with all 4 slots populated. Further increasing this value resulted in instability and crashes of applications.


1T command rate. Hell yeah, socket 939 loves that timing. *MTRR mapping* for the 4GB barrier. Beware that there is a second option you need to enable so that you can use all installed RAM.


The whole bunch of magic. Pity there is not the fancy tRef setting that made the Lanparty boards so awesome.
*MemClock Value*: Big red exclamation mark*!* This setting was the solution for my problems, presumably because this is related to tRef. Running the memory 1:1 (memclock value 200) caused massive problems, no stability no matter what I tried. Settin it to 166 or 183 ran just fine. Additionally "MemClock value" and tRef are connected to your CPU multi. I have no clue how, you have to try. Running my CPU with multi 10x and 250MHz = 2500MHz was instable with DDR500 (1:1, memclock value 200). Changing tRef did nothing for stability. The only thing that works is 11x 273MHz, memclock value 183.
For CL2.5 I used 10.5x 286MHz, memclock value 166, resulting in 3GHz CPU clock and DDR462.

Standard timings for the CF-5 chips are pretty lame, if you asked me. Maximum clocks for me are: CL2 215MHz bootstable; CL2.5 243MHz benchstable; CL3 270MHz bootstable
*tRCD* is always 3, no matter what you do, it can't go any lower. *tRP* works with 2 for DDR400, but not much higher. *tRCD* is just pointless. Techtrancer at hardwareluxx.de set this to 0 at his Ultra-D









Now the important stuff:
*tRRD*: works with 3 at lower clocks, but 4 is for more savety. Maybe setting it to 5 grants some more stability at extreme clocks.
*tRC*: I had it a while at 8, but it was really the edge of stability, now set it to 9 for savety. Big influence on stability at higher clocks.
*tRFC*: SPD sets it to 13 at DDR400. At DDR500 14 was the lowest value for me. Same as tRC, big influence on stability.

Everything following is more or less stability related, I didn't dig too deep into this settings.
*tRWT* causes instabilities with 3, I didn't notice any influence on performance.
*tRef*: 15.6µs and 7.8µs seem to make no difference in stability, so I set the bigger value for more performance.
*R/W Queue bypass count, Bypass Max*: maximum values for performance reasons, although I have no clue what they do. Not much unformation in the internet about those values.
*Idle cycle limit*: you will always find this value at 0 on any lanparty overclocker. I tried 0 and it causes instability. I didn't play with it much, the performance impact is not really a big deal, so for savety reasons it's set to tha maximum.
*DDR Driving strength*: any other setting than normal caused massive problems in applications.
*DDR Input Strobe skew* and *DDR data driving strength*: same as above. Leave it alone.
*Read preamble*: 5.5ns was the default for DDR400, I guess the auto setting increases this value at higher clocks, so I pinned it.
*Async Latency*: same as above. Set it to the default value of 7.0ns
*Hardware Memory hole*: Second option to use all RAM over 4GB in combination with MTRR mapping. Otherwhise you won't be able to use 4/8GB, but 3.25/7GB instead


Just to show you that HT 1000MHz is not the limit. I'm running at 1365MHz, even 1400MHz is possible.

[edit]
Summary:
Athlon64 X2 4400+ (Toledo, 2200MHz) 273MHz x 11 = 3003MHz @ 1.296V
MemClock Value 183 ( =550/3 ) (for tRef this is treated like the next smaller value 166 )

original CPU clock divided by MemClock Value equals memory divider (rounded up to the next whole number for save downclocks)
2200MHz / ( 550 / 3 ) = 12

real CPU clock divided by memory divider equals real memory clock
3003MHz / 12 = 250 MHz real memory frequency

4 x 2GB DDR1 250MHz (PC4000) @2.75V
CL-RCD-RP-RAS 3-3-3-5
CR 1T
RC-RFC-RRD-WR 9-14-4-3
RTW-WTR-WCL 4-2-2
AI Clock Skew (Channel A and B) AdVanced 300ps


----------



## SwishaMane

Sick! Printing all that for future use, lol


----------



## cdoublejj

I have heard most modern SSDs can mange okay with out AHCI enabled. people have been installing them PS3s which like 939 does not have AHCI.


----------



## seaFs

I'm running my M4 128GB since a year or so on nForce4. Operating system, programs and very few games installed on it, with at least 20GB overprovisioning. I have no clue if trim really works, but the garbage collection should do it's work. And even if it slows down, everything is better than a HDD as system drive. The SSD was the most important factor for me to move on to Windws 7. I have Windows XP 64 installed on it in parallel, but it's hard to get applications running on it.


----------



## NOS---

Have a question for all of you Socket 939 Gurus.

Lets say I have a DFI Ultra D Lanparty.

There's an issue with it, Whenever you go into the bios and use the "Save and exit" option, it will not boot. All four lights on the debug panel light up, and you have to clear the cmos with jumper or remove battery to get it to boot.

Any ideas?


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> I'm running my M4 128GB since a year or so on nForce4. Operating system, programs and very few games installed on it, with at least 20GB overprovisioning. I have no clue if trim really works, but the garbage collection should do it's work. And even if it slows down, everything is better than a HDD as system drive. The SSD was the most important factor for me to move on to Windws 7. I have Windows XP 64 installed on it in parallel, but it's hard to get applications running on it.


Have you you used any programs like SSDlife to check the life and see if it's wearing out notably faster than normal?


----------



## seaFs

Unfortunately the Crucial M4 doesn't display any throughput indicator. SSDlife displays 100% health, nothing more. I guess the lifetime estiamtion dropped by 4 month over the past year. I don't stress my SSD much, no hibernation and pagefile, big games are installed on my HDDs. I really take care of it. My previous system drive was a 120GB IDE Samsung HDD which was 10 years in constant use. I want the M4 to live as long as the old HDD.


----------



## SwishaMane

Im also running a Crucial M4 128GB SSD in my s939 setup, and its crazy good. I think the last time I ran a bench on the SSD, it was 250 read, 160+ write. Somewhere in there. Its made my s939 experience awesome. Win7 boots fast, almost as fast as my AM3+ setup with the Samsung 840 PRO. Not quite, but close.

My M4 had been starting to re-allocate sectors, and started to fail, which is why I went with the 840. Thats when I threw the M4 in the s939 for giggles, and it turned out to be a permanent giggle. Just left it, works great! Ive probably been rocking the SSD in my 939 for 9 months now. I haven't wasted the time looking to see how many more sectors have been re-allocated. I can only assume it might be getting to the point its gonna die for sure, but thats ok. Its under warranty still til late Nov. this year.


----------



## cdoublejj

that's all that matters is the "life". obviously performance isn't going to be top notch.

EDIT: You can buy IDE SSDs now, from sizes 1.8" to 2.5" and maybe even 3.5"


----------



## seaFs

NCQ isn't supported by the MS IDE driver. I don't want to use the nVidia driver. Raw throughput is limited by the chipset, it is SATA 1 widened to SATA2 speeds and NCQ support, no true SATA2 on nForce chipsets. 4k reads and 4k 64thread reads are limited by the lack of NCQ and the CPU. Of course the SSD is held back by the system, but that doesn't matter. It's an SSD at all










About IDE SSDs: Last time I checked you don't want an IDE SSD, because the controllers are not at the same developement state as the current ones, no trim, no garbage collection, no or non-optimal wear algorithms.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> the problem with only 1 heat source is, is part of the PCB gets hot and expands more than the rest of the PCB, even if you wave the gun around which also causes another problem, it keeps the unsteady and and uneven Because you are waving the gun around trying to keep it all hot the heat can't be "concentrated" to keep the temperature steady.
> 
> If you watch those re flow machines you will see the temperature profile, they keep steady temp that steadily increases. So with only 1 heat source and non adjustable, not low and high, with knob, in 1 and 2 degree increments, you face several problems.
> 
> 1. no heat adjustment, either too much or too little.
> 
> 2. You are either going to cause un even expansion which IS bad or have uneven heating.
> 
> 3. aside form an too you lack heat from BOTH side of the chip, heat on the bottom and top of the cheap helps it hold the heat better and thusly get the BGA hotter for a throughal reflow and melting of the solder. This is also the something the oven achieves really well too.
> 
> Another advantage of setup like mine is being to inject flux into the BGA, which i suppose with the right apparel is possible in the oven as well and of course doable with heat gun as well. However I'd lean more on the side that you may be causing more harm than good, Not to insult you but, the approach/technique of using just a heat gun i usually consider using a heat gun with out pre heater butchering/butchery it's more ham fisted approach to something that really should have more detail.finesse.


All three of those issues are easily mitigated if you know what your doing. I was Senior hardware Tech in charge of circuit board repair for GE in the 90's, Kinda know what I'm doing as well.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> All three of those issues are easily mitigated if you know what your doing. I was Senior hardware Tech in charge of circuit board repair for GE in the 90's, Kinda know what I'm doing as well.


I suppose if you had enough heat to melt the solder but, not flex the board but, i find that hard to believe since the solder is in between a chip and the PCB so the PCB is going to take the brunt of heat. I.R. would probably be an exception. But, if you have any insight and feel like sharing that would be cool. i do not mean that in an insulting way but, as in the more information one can learn the better.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> I suppose if you had enough heat to melt the solder but, not flex the board but, i find that hard to believe since the solder is in between a chip and the PCB so the PCB is going to take the brunt of heat. I.R. would probably be an exception. But, if you have any insight and feel like sharing that would be cool. i do not mean that in an insulting way but, as in the more information one can learn the better.


One of these helps.


----------



## vladv

Anybody ( still ) knows what are the recommended memory brands - for the good old legendary DFI LANParty NF4 SLI-DR Expert motherboard







?


----------



## seaFs

From a german forum about the whole nf4 series.
http://www.hardwareluxx.de/community/f12/faq-dfi-nf4-lanparty-ultra-d-sli-d-sli-dr-expert-133259.html

RAM IC compatibility

Winbond BH-5 !
Winbond BH-6 !
Winbond CH-5
Winbond UTT BH-5 !
Winbond UTT CH-5 !
Smasung TCC5 !
Samsung TCC4
Samsung TCCD !
Samsung TCB3
Micron 5B G !
Micron 5B C
Micron 5B D !
Hynix D5
Hynix D4
Hynix B !
Infineon 6A !
Infineon 5C
MoselVitelic 5ns
PowerChip 5ns

(! = recommendation)

Have a look at this thread to check which manufacturer uses which ICs
http://www.overclock.net/t/286688/list-of-ddr3-ddr2-ddr-ic-chips-on-various-ram-brand-modules-updating-28-01-08/0_100


----------



## SwishaMane

Alright guys, just purchased my ASUS A8N32 for my 8GB s939 attempt! I'm going to hold out on buying the extra RAM until I receive it and insure it is in 100% working order. I'll be using my current ECC 4GB set to test, and when (if) thats successful, Ill then drop the extra $20 on another 6GB of the ECC.

Since I only modded one dimm, I plan to buy 3 more identical dimms, and run 4x 2GB un-modded dimms, keeping the modded one as a backup. If what seaFs says is correct, (since he owns this board and has done it, lol) I should be able to boot these dimms exactly how they are, no need for a SPD swap and flash. Which btw is no problem even if I had to, it was actually quite easy. Just a lot of flux to keep everything from bridging solder joints, LOL









So yeah, this bad boy is on the way, and its gonna be record setting. The October OC contest is already over yo...


----------



## seaFs

another 6GB?








Well, if you have spare reg DIMMs then, punish them with 3 volts, turbine-like fan cooling an look if you can get 300MHz stable








When you're ready building the 8GB rig, we have to talk about stability testing. Forget Prime95 blend and memtest86, they won't work and show you perfect stability, while all your applications will crash. It's really special to get it running.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> another 6GB?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, if you have spare reg DIMMs then, punish them with 3 volts, turbine-like fan cooling an look if you can get 300MHz stable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you're ready building the 8GB rig, we have to talk about stability testing. Forget Prime95 blend and memtest86, they won't work and show you perfect stability, while all your applications will crash. It's really special to get it running.


Yeah, another 6GB, like i said, I want to run all non-modded, untouched RAM,a nd keep the modded dimm as an emergency backup. So I only have 1 dimm, so need 3 more, he he...

I've got a lot of your data, so it should go smooth. And I don't run Prime95 on my rigs anymore. Maybe for 5 minutes to see what my thermal would be like at 110% load, lol

I guess we'll see when the bad b**** comes in.







I'd like to think I know a lot about OC'ing s939, so it SHOULDN'T be too much of a headache I don't think. My main interest is getting it stable under stock conditions, ensuring the RAM is 100% functional, and the mobo isn't faulty. then I'll shoot for my CPU OC stable while trying to keep RAM as close to 200Mhz as possible. With 8GB in a s939, I'm not worried about my RAM freq. being as high as it can be. Of course, theres nothing wrong with an extra 50Mhz for DDR500, but man, I just need the extra memory yo...


----------



## seaFs

Well, there is a big difference in overclocking 2 DIMMs and 4 DIMMs. With all 4 slots populated you need to dig much deeper into stability options, because there is big influence between the physical wires of the board, electrical interference, and so on. The stress for the memory controller is minimal with the registered DIMMs, but the "stress" or "electrical load" for the mainboard layers is so heavy that you can't reach high clocks easily.

For heavy mutlicore loads you want more memory bandwidth. Remember that socket 939 has advantages over socket 754, just by the memory data width. With dual cores the bandwidth is halved for each core, especially if running at 3GHz. When looking at the task manager I often see both CPU and GPU not running with 100%, so what is holding it back. I think it's the memory that is too slow for 3GHz, especially the timings. That's why you can squeeze 10-20% more out of the Athlon64s by running CL2 DDR500 1T.

Anyay, remember you wanted to bench toe-to-toe with my


----------



## SwishaMane

Well, Im gonna shoot for getting it to run stock first, ha ha. But I'll get there. I'll be comparing performance with my current setup as I work on it. If i can reach the performance I get now, but with 8GB, I'll be good.

As for competition, and the october contest, thats a whole another world. Thats for fun and e-peen. I just want to keep this 939 for as long as I can as my HTPC and emu machine. Getting 8GB RAM and a better GPU will bring her crashing into 2014 and beyond...


----------



## seaFs

Well, nope. Forget about Battlefiled 3. It's horrible to play. Same with Prototype 2 and virtually everything else that relies on 4 threads.
Hmm, this really cries for a dual socket 940 board, some SPD modding with reg DIMMs and heavy volt mods to crank two dualcore Opteron 2xx to 3GHz


----------



## SwishaMane

So, have we come to a conclusion on whether the Qimonda ECC RAM will work with passive heatsinks like these?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14787/ram-59/RAM_Aluminum_Heat_Spreader_-_Black_MMT-RAM-HS-BK.html?tl=g40c18s236




Im sure those crazy ones with the copper finned heatpipes and such are too crazy, but these i think would be fine. Do you think they would hinder the RAM? I mean, the RAM is MADE without heatsinks. BUT, its also made for server use, which is usually WAY hotter and heavier constant use. If they are MADE without for that type of application, i wonder if the heatsinks would even help?

I know they would improve the cosmetics, but who cares... lol









And if we think they would be good, should we really concern ourselves with removing the sticker on the dimms, or just put the cooler right over it? I opt for removing the sticker ONLY if its easy. If its a hassle (you know, just shredding into pieces, leaving insane residue, etc) then i would just slap the cooler over it. ha ha


----------



## seaFs

Basic heatsinks, especially for DDR1, have always been cosmetic. As soon as you need airflow over the DIMMs, every metal covering the ICs is bad, because it does not really improve contact area with the air. So heat sinks with spreaders and fins are really the way to go.

There are many reports of guys ripping off the heat spreaders of the DIMMs for better cooling. I'm not deep in the matter of memory cooling, let alone voltage influence. I only know that the legendary Brainpower PCBs were the good stuff for DDR1 DIMMs, because they allowed much higher voltage scaling over the JEDEC PCB. The Qimonda DIMMs use another JEDEC PCB (Brainpower only made the standard layout PCBs for TSOP ICs and unregistered non-ECC DIMMs) that is not made for high voltages, maybe this limits them to 2.8V


----------



## SwishaMane

Thats pretty much what I thought. I looked at my Corsair XMS Platinum, like in my 939 now. Its heatsink only touches like the top of the ICs, and misses touching the bottom half of them. I took the liberty to draw up this pic...



As you can see, there is a gap between the heatsink and ICs. The drawing blows it out of proportion a bit, but the effect is still there. If I squash the heatsink down on the ICs, it only stays for a few seconds before it springs back.

I wonder if i could just take the heatsinks off and get active cooling directly on the RAM if that would help me push past DDR500 on THESE dimms. Which is a whole separate endeavor than the 8GB ECC attempt.









I think I'll just keep them naked...


----------



## SwishaMane

Be sure to subscribe to my official BeigeModders Club entry!

SwishaMane's Official BeigeModders Club Entry


----------



## SwishaMane

Heres my new board. Little beat up, hopefulyl she works. Came with a 4400+ CCBWE 0612, 2x 1GB Wintec Value rAM with Samsung LCCC, and a 2x 256 set of Infineon with infineon marked ICs.

$45 shipped. Yup. Lots of accessories too, i/o shield, new cables, etc. Cant wait!














EDIT: I just found this... Appears to be a VRM cooler. So awesome!


----------



## NOS---

Great looking parts!

Now get modding! and test out the 2gb DDR stick


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NOS---*
> 
> Great looking parts!
> 
> Now get modding! and test out the 2gb DDR stick


Yeah, lol, just gotta get real life out the way first...

Ok, sop got the new mobo in today, using all my old known working parts, except the mobo obviously. My initial experiences aren't looking good. I set my old RAM timings, and the board wouldn't even boot. This is NOT overclocking, this is just the known timings and settings that made the RAM work real good on the last board. It wouldnt even post. My Win7 install is BSOD'ing on every boot, so theres a driver issue. Currently re-installing a fresh windows now.

Doesn't change the fact I cant get BIOS to post with manual RAM timing adjustments made. And the BIOS is a whole another world than Im used to on my DFI. Man is it messy and overworded. All I need to see is HTT or HTT Link, not 'ASUS super gamer overkill AI suite exteme pro level space age hyper transport time travel technology frequency booster link'

Jesus... lol


----------



## Kryton

My board has the little cooler too and it works quite well for what it is.
Never really used it much but still a great little add-on to have.

Caveat:
I can say if on air, don't use it since it seems there is an issue with overheating if used that way. My board's literature mentioned it and didn't use it on air for that reason.
Only use it with watercooling is what was stated about it.
Just sayin....

Overall the board and goodies is a really nice score!


----------



## SwishaMane

Well, its not looking good. I put the ECC RAM in, single dimm, slot B1 like manual says. This board is BSOD on everything. The neighbors dog barks, BSOD... Two different types of RAM, stock CMOS reset and settings adjustments, it just BSOD constantly... Cant re-install Win7 either, BSOD after initial setup.

Just. Horrible.

EDIT: Yeah, this thing continues to just lockup or BSOD. I cant install Win7 or anything.


----------



## seaFs

Which BIOS version? I used 1303. 1405 didn't give any improvements.
Don't expect super timtings with the Asus board. DFI did some magic in their boards to make all the timtings work


----------



## SwishaMane

I'm struggling to get it at stock. Auto everything is scary, so Im setting everything manually, but with stock values. 166 divider, 200fsb, 5x htt. 13x multi at 1.375vcore for CPU. advance 300 since Im running the one 2GB ECC dimm in slot B1 single channel.

Im having a video card issue with POST and video sometimes showing, sometimes not. Win7 install BSOD at last step during install before system resets and boots from disk for first time usable. So, right at the very end of the install BAM! 0124 code.


----------



## seaFs

So just auto everything. For stock settings auto does a quite good and safe job. My experience is that AI DDR Clock skew settings are only necessary when populating all four slots.
Disable everything you don't need (serial and parallel port, firewire, usb legacy support, etc)
Maybe you can plug in an older graphics card (before HD5000/Geforce 400 series) with maximum PCIe 2.0 specs. There were some issues with the A8N32 and HD5770 GPUs, although even a HD6990/GTX480 is said to be working on it. Must be related to the power savoing features implemented with PCIe 2.1/2.2. Just to be safe...

That's why I use a HD4890 over a HD5770.


----------



## SwishaMane

I ran parted magic to get SSD a clean format, ran rock solid. BSOD at end of Win7 install. I am quite bored of the new board already. I think its a dud.

Whats killing me is why it BSOD right at end of windows install? It seems rock solid to a degree... This is why I dont do new things... lol

EDIT: So after looking over the BSOD code, I decided Id remove the one piece of expansion hardware I have installed, my pci-e 1x wifi adapter. Hopefully that was the issue, because the machine seems rock solid outside failing win7 install at very end. So dumb... We'll see...

EDIT 2: Ok, so install finished after removing the wifi adapter. DAMN! All that wasted time. Now I can finally play with the things I've been wanting to.

I've also installed the wifi driver first, then the card, and its working fine. SOOOO, I think whenever I reinstall windows, I might have to take out the wifi adapter. Finally looking good, after a whole day wasted, lol


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> . All I need to see is HTT or HTT Link, not 'ASUS super gamer overkill AI suite exteme pro level space age hyper transport time travel technology frequency booster link'
> 
> Jesus... lol


----------



## seaFs

Good to see you did it, Swisha. Next time simply install Windows 7 from SSD, not form DVD. That saves you A LOT of time (half an hour for the whole installation instead of over an hour.)


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Good to see you did it, Swisha. Next time simply install Windows 7 from SSD, not form DVD. That saves you A LOT of time (half an hour for the whole installation instead of over an hour.)


I run Win7 install off flash drive, and it is really fast. Especially considering this mobo actually does full speed USB 2.0. My DFI 939 couldnt install off flash disk because the speed was so slow, 1.1, it was slower than a DVD rom. LOL

The ECC dimm is in fact working in non-ECC mode, single channel. The real world performance, even at full stock, is really solid. Not any slower noticeably, BUT, maxmemm was VERY bad. Now, I am NOT OC'd, and the RAM is single channel, but the benchmark performance was LITERALLY 1/3 of that as before. I could get Memory Copy in the 6.9 - 7.1k depending on run, and the ECC single dimm did 2.5k... OUCH! lol

Nothing is tweaked yet tho.

I think Ill go ahead and order the other dimms tho and get this going. Im confident I'll get her good.


----------



## seaFs

Didn't know the MaxMem2 tool before, but downlaoded it and here my results (MB/s)
Copy 6375
read 7800
write 7689
latency 55.6 ns

Running a single DIMM will always give you poor scores, compared to two DIMMs, even in single channel operation (because of missing memory interleaving). 2k5 GB/s copy isn't that bad, considering the total theoretical bandwidth of 3200MB/s. Also remember that the register chip adds another cycle for addressing the chips to the access latency, further decreasing bandwidth. That's why you need to overclock the DIMMs to get on par with the 2T timings of four unregistered DIMMs.


----------



## cdoublejj

maybe you should try normal 1gb ddr sticks for now and see if the BSODs go away.


----------



## seaFs

Wow, you got one of the rarer X2 4400.
ADV4400DAA6CD means the 89W version, not 110W.
Pity it has a bad stepping, CCBWE 0612 is said to top out at 2.6GHz and produce high temperatures, at least the 110W version. I'm curious what the ADV is capable of.


----------



## SwishaMane

Well, the 4400+ is going in my old board with old RAM. Once my beigebox is done being modded (soon I hope), I will be firing her up. Right now focus is on acquiring mod supplies, and getting my htpc back up and running. Board seems stable now at stock with win7 issue resolved because of a wifi adapter... lol


----------



## pioneerisloud

Swisha, want some more 939 goodness to play with?







Insert shameless promotional link here to my thread........nope can't do that. Seriously though guys, its been fun, but since I need to fix my truck, I'm having to sell off all my spare hardware.


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Seriously though guys, its been fun, but since I need to fix my truck, I'm having to sell off all my spare hardware.


Got any A64 X2 for 939 on the cheap? I can't find any here, not even one, and when they were available they sold for $60 and up per unit.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Seriously though guys, its been fun, but since I need to fix my truck, I'm having to sell off all my spare hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> Got any A64 X2 for 939 on the cheap? I can't find any here, not even one, and when they were available they sold for $60 and up per unit.
Click to expand...

3800 toledo that did 2.8ghz on the board and ram setup that's also up lol. Board was very finicky and not a good clocker at all. I believe the chip is probably capable of 3ghz, maybe more.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Got any A64 X2 for 939 on the cheap? I can't find any here, not even one, and when they were available they sold for $60 and up per unit.


You mean no Opty dual cores either?
Same basic thing if you can find one of those except all DC Optys have the full 1024KB L2 cache, some A64 X2's do not like my X2 4200 - It only has 512KB's worth of L2 cache but it's still a good chip.


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> 3800 toledo that did 2.8ghz on the board and ram setup that's also up lol. Board was very finicky and not a good clocker at all. I believe the chip is probably capable of 3ghz, maybe more.


Damn, that's a good chip, best I got out of my single-core A64s is 2.67GHz on one of the 3200+ while pumping 1.550V through it. Every A64 I have is a lemon, and I got 15 of them.

Anyway, do you by any chance know how much would shipping to Europe (Croatia) cost? Knowing my luck, way too much, but I like to stay positive.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> You mean no Opty dual cores either?


There's a grand total of three Opterons being sold over here. Two are socket F (a pair of 2356 and three 2218) and the third one is an Interlagos 6278 (16-core G34 Bulldozer). And that last one would be something I'd love to get my hands on.

For some reason Opterons are incredibly rare here, you're lucky to find any at all and when you do, they'll cost you. Xeons on the other hand are in the plenty and cheap, I can find a W3550 for €53 and retrofitted 771 quads that work on 775 start from €15. I'd get one of the 4C/8T Xeons but finding a 1366 mobo is as impossible as finding a 939 Opteron.


----------



## seaFs

Don't look at ebay, it's always overpriced. Try you luck at hardware enthusiast forums. It's still hard to find some X2s, but for the real value.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> 3800 toledo that did 2.8ghz on the board and ram setup that's also up lol. Board was very finicky and not a good clocker at all. I believe the chip is probably capable of 3ghz, maybe more.
> 
> 
> 
> Damn, that's a good chip, best I got out of my single-core A64s is 2.67GHz on one of the 3200+ while pumping 1.550V through it. Every A64 I have is a lemon, and I got 15 of them.
> 
> Anyway, do you by any chance know how much would shipping to Europe (Croatia) cost? Knowing my luck, way too much, but I like to stay positive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> You mean no Opty dual cores either?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> There's a grand total of three Opterons being sold over here. Two are socket F (a pair of 2356 and three 2218) and the third one is an Interlagos 6278 (16-core G34 Bulldozer). And that last one would be something I'd love to get my hands on.
> 
> For some reason Opterons are incredibly rare here, you're lucky to find any at all and when you do, they'll cost you. Xeons on the other hand are in the plenty and cheap, I can find a W3550 for €53 and retrofitted 771 quads that work on 775 start from €15. I'd get one of the 4C/8T Xeons but finding a 1366 mobo is as impossible as finding a 939 Opteron.
Click to expand...

This one is a duallie, not a single core. I'm not sure how much international shipping would cost, I've honestly never done it.


----------



## vladv

I've got a big problem guys cannot enter BIOS setup using Del key with PS2 keyboard - DFI LanParty UT NF4 SLI-DR Expert motherboard and I REALLY need to use that board as quick as I can.Anyone can help me with this issue?


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vladv*
> 
> I've got a big problem guys cannot enter BIOS setup using Del key with PS2 keyboard - DFI LanParty UT NF4 SLI-DR Expert motherboard and I REALLY need to use that board as quick as I can.Anyone can help me with this issue?


Cheapest quickest fix is acquire usb keyboard. Seriously tho, is it just the ps/2 ports not working, or other legacy connectors too? Id say the keyboard is faulty, or maybe a surface mount component related directly to the ps/2 ports has popped (as in a fuse, resistor, etc). Is it configured enough to boot into windows? If so, does the ps/2 port work in windows?

Weird issue mane.


----------



## seaFs

Plug out everything (CPU, RAM, cards) and try a CMOS reset.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> This one is a duallie, not a single core. I'm not sure how much international shipping would cost, I've honestly never done it.


Just the CPU, i'd i'd guess about 30 bucks since it would be a smaller package. though you'd probably have to mark it as gift and to be on the safe side, put in a USPS small flat box so it doesn't get mashed on it's journey. also you would have to fill out the documents. it's not too hard through USPS.


----------



## vladv

I've got this legendary socket 939 motherboard DFI LP UT SLI-DR Expert chipset nForce4 SLI almost new only one SATA port is somewhat messed up missing those plastic parts from both sides , bought this baby really cheap ~ 55 $ from well known Romanian e-bay site okazii.ro , and I put it on my FX-60 dual core ( yeah , THAT one! ) and some KINGSTON value memory and tried to boot my rig.Here is my problem now:this board is working those 4 red diagnostic LEDS start 4,3,2 next only one left so no "4 LEDs of death" syndrome for me and the onboard speaker beeps ONCE like should do which I know is a good thing but I cannot enter BIOS to setup as I need Del key on my PS2 keyboard is NOT working as it should I press the key and the result is 0 nada nothing , first I see the boot logo from DFI after that I see "CMOS checksum error - defaults loaded , press F1 to continue or Del to enter setup" and when I press F1 sometimes I see this message "Verifying Pool Data and Backup CMOS OK!" and other times I see "Sil3114 SATA RAID Press Ctrl-S or F4 to enter RAID utility".One more thing to add is that I can actually use boot menu selection using Esc key to select HDD,CD-ROM or some other options like floppy disk or USB boot and this board actually can boot using CD/DVD I already tried UBCD rescue CD and some Linux live distros to see if it's not a problem with my FX-60 processor and I'm happy that it is working well is all good no problem here actually I've seen it's name and working frequency ~ 2616 Mhz at POST, please help me to solve this problem with my mobo.


----------



## vladv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Plug out everything (CPU, RAM, cards) and try a CMOS reset.


Really ANYTHING out ( I left only the FX-60 processor in when I did short clear CMOS procedure - no results ) and should left the mobo like that for how much time?


----------



## seaFs

Unplug power and remove the CMOS battery for 15-20 seconds. That should do it.
But you should really try getting a cheap USB keyboard for 5 bucks or so. Maybe the DEL key is broken? Keyboard opened and checked the contacts?









And FX-60 are not a guarantee for high overclocks. Batch number/memory controller version is more important^^


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Unplug power and remove the CMOS battery for 15-20 seconds. That should do it.
> But you should really try getting a cheap USB keyboard for 5 bucks or so. Maybe the DEL key is broken? Keyboard opened and checked the contacts?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And FX-60 are not a guarantee for high overclocks. Batch number/memory controller version is more important^^


I owned two FX-60s in my time, and they were both junk OC'ers. 2.9 stable, nothing more from both. It could have been inexperience at that point tho, because i was pretty new to overclocking.


----------



## SwishaMane

UPDATE

My other 6GB of ECC RAM made it. Posted first try, and is running good, stock tho.


----------



## seaFs

No stock, you are Running CL2 DDR400







Thats tighter timings than the SPD dictates.
You can see that the A8N32 massively overcolts. nearly 1.4V for the CPU, while 1.35 or a tad less should be normal.


----------



## SwishaMane

Im talking about freqs. Couldn't care less about a slight overvolt. 1.375 is stock anyway... less than a quarter of a volt aint sh**.


----------



## seaFs

AMD specs say 1.30-1.35V is recommended. But with Vdroop under load the voltages are pretty good. When setting 1.275V in bios you get 1.312V idle, 1.296V under load (Prime95) , sometims dropping down to 1.280V under extreme loads (Linpack).
The annoying thing is the undervolting. Minimum for my Athlon64 is VID 1.100V, but it 1.152V real. I bet the CPU needs less volts to be stable at 273x5=1365MHz for power saving. I use RMclock as replacement for Cool'n'Quiet and it works like a charm.


----------



## SwishaMane

I've never seen a single AMD s939 CPU at less than 1.375. But anyway, yeah. SUCCESS! NOW, to start OC'ing... I need 3ghz on this CPU. Hmm...


----------



## seaFs

well, try 231MHz x 13, MemLimit 233

Stock clocks
200MHz x 13 = 2600MHz
2600MHz / 233MHz = 11,16 --> round up to 12

Overclocked
231MHz x 13 = 3003MHz CPU clock
3003MHz / 12 = 250MHz memory clock

The only question is: Will it post and is it stable?

Otherwise use my settings: 273 x 11, mem limit 183


----------



## SwishaMane

Whats the highest stable FSB you've tried. MY old DFI here was at 309 x 9.5 at 166, and that was 2.95ghz at 245Mhz DRAM. Wasnt bad at ALL, and 100% stable, like a rock with a square bottom. lol


----------



## seaFs

My Board boots with 286x11, after that no POST, regardless of LDT and chipset voltage...
In Windows I reached 340MHz with Clockgen.


----------



## SwishaMane

Ok, cool. I've been busy with my beige box mod, so i haven't messed with the main 939 yet. Its performing really good, maxmemm kicked back up to somewhat normal once I got the rest of the RAM in. About 6.3k read, 6.1k write. Hoping to break 7k read with OC. HOPING the 185 can do 3ghz stable on this board. SOOOOOOO close on the other board.


----------



## seaFs

Something interesting for you.
When running my rig with the X2 4400, I get an access latency of 61.3ns with the 8GB DDR500R in Aida64 4.50.
Just plugged in my 3700 E6 (dualcore Toledo with one core disabled --> San Diego E6), it boots windows without problems, 3003MHz with 1.376V







Unfortunately it's not stable, even with 1.440V.
Anyway, the important stuff: I ran Aida64, and surprisingly the access latnecy dropped down to 54.1ns. Memory bandwidth stays the same, between 7k7 and 8k MB/s.
This single core keeps pretty cool at 42°C load. Maybe I'm gonna play with it a bit, since I moved on to socket 775 with my main rig.


----------



## SwishaMane

Ive noticed over the years 45 to 55ns latency is pretty average. My 8GB setup at stock 2.6ghz speed on my opty 185 is about 52ns, and OC'd (on last mobo, i havent Oc'd the new one just yet) it was 47ns with the 2x1gb Corsairs.

I wouldn't worry about latenc much if its in the 45 - 55ns range. I am worried about getting my OC back to "normal". 2.9+ghz at 240+mhz DRAM, AT LEAST!









Wish I had time to fuss with it. I don't want to restart the machine 100x, no patience anymore for testing OCs. lol


----------



## seaFs

I just wanted to point out that the second core somehow increases access latencies. I'm not sure if this behaviour results from the windows 7 task scheduler, which causes "core hopping". Maybe it's possible to assign the bench.dll of Aida64 to one core .


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> I just wanted to point out that the second core somehow increases access latencies. I'm not sure if this behaviour results from the windows 7 task scheduler, which causes "core hopping". Maybe it's possible to assign the bench.dll of Aida64 to one core .


If it has its own process, might as well try that in task manager (set affinity).


----------



## SwishaMane

Wait, did single core Toledos really have a core disabled? But connected enough to cause trizzouble?

And Nate, bro, you're killing me with *that that*... WHAT DOES IT MEAN!?


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Wait, did single core Toledos really have a core disabled? But connected enough to cause trizzouble?
> 
> And Nate, bro, you're killing me with *that that*... WHAT DOES IT MEAN!?


LOL whoops. I had just woken up when I posted that. Edited to clear things up







.


----------



## seaFs

Hmm, I started Windows 7 with just one core (with "bcdedit /set onecpu on"), but access latency stays exactly the same. So maybe this is related to the memory controller itself, stepping codes or something? I also noticed that the 3700+ can't run 4x1GB at CL2, while my broken Opteron 180 could. If you have the patience, maybe you can check for access latencies over different CPUs with same clock speeds/memory sttings. This is strange...


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Hmm, I started Windows 7 with just one core (with "bcdedit /set onecpu on"), but access latency stays exactly the same. So maybe this is related to the memory controller itself, stepping codes or something? I also noticed that the 3700+ can't run 4x1GB at CL2, while my broken Opteron 180 could. If you have the patience, maybe you can check for access latencies over different CPUs with same clock speeds/memory sttings. This is strange...


Yup, different Steppings are different chips just based on the same design.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stepping_level

Mem controllers have always been an issue with this chip and I'm sure this was a major effort to address this on AMD's part for each iteration. It's not surprising that the latency lowers when the core count is lower as the processor does not do the steps to route instructions.


----------



## seaFs

Yep, I somewhere read that especially revision E chips Athlons have lower throughput capabilities comapred to earlier memory controllers (Claw Hammer CG?), but allow for more memory and better overclocks. My intention in the previous post was to compare different E6 CPUs and look if the access latency vaires just by silicon, not by revision.
As I mentioned, my Denmark had a better memory controller than my Toledo. Maybe this variance causes the effects. Unfortunately I have no more CPUs left to compare.


----------



## SwishaMane

Ive only got my one Opty 185. The 4400+ that came with my new board is in my beige box mod, and Im not pulling them out for a latency test. Especially when Im trying to sell the beige box. Both are within the norm, 45 -55ns. Thats such a small measurement, I don't understand why you would concern yourself. Unless it were like 100+ns when pretty much all other chips do 45 - 55ns.

I also use Maxxmem, not aida64, but i can test both machines with both progs and see wassup...


----------



## seaFs

MaxxMem2 2.01 reports 54.6 or 55.7ns latency, no consistent results. Aida64 does a better job here, presumably because of optimized assembler coding.
You ask why I bother? Because







We are an enthusiast/nerd/freak community, I just want to find things out.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> MaxxMem2 2.01 reports 54.6 or 55.7ns latency, no consistent results. Aida64 does a better job here, presumably because of optimized assembler coding.
> You ask why I bother? Because
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are an enthusiast/nerd/freak community, I just want to find things out.


I think you would have to use the same (exact) board,mem and settings to really get this comparison done accurately.


----------



## Kryton

Just a heads up - If you are already a registered member as of this date at CP, you can get in on the comp that just started.
Woudn't be fair to compete in comps here and leave you eligible guys out - However I'm not running it so the rules /conditions for it are what they are.









If anything, you guys can watch the expected carnage go down.









https://www.classicplatforms.com/~classicp/forum/viewtopic.php?f=185&t=8467


----------



## seaFs

You were just afraid of us partcipating


----------



## SwishaMane

Too bad i only have a dual core. What trace do i cut to get single core? LOL, j/k


----------



## ozlay

I tested 4gb sticks of ddr 3200 reg ecc and they do not seem to work with the 939 cpus i get a black screen but with out beeps how ever 2gb reg ecc ram sticks seem too work just fine


----------



## seaFs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozlay*
> 
> I tested 4gb sticks of ddr 3200 reg ecc and they do not seem to work with the 939 cpus i get a black screen but with out beeps how ever 2gb reg ecc ram sticks seem too work just fine


You got your hands on 4GB stacked DDR? I'd like to see some pictures. Did you try to remove the plastic cover?


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Too bad i only have a dual core. What trace do i cut to get single core? LOL, j/k


I believe it's OK as long as you'd run WPrime with only one thread.
Witchy will have to confirm it (His comp) but I think it's alright as long as you do that.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> You were just afraid of us partcipating


Lol. I'm sure that was it.








I upgraded everybody I knew to regular user status at CP. PM Witchy and see if he'll let you in. He's running that show.


----------



## ozlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> You got your hands on 4GB stacked DDR? I'd like to see some pictures. Did you try to remove the plastic cover?


what do you mean by plastic cover?


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozlay*
> 
> what do you mean by plastic cover?


Heatsink?


----------



## cdoublejj

So I just picked these up, http://www.ebay.com/itm/121419469232

While I'm here does any one else like retro gaming and or retro rigs beside 939?


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> So I just picked these up, http://www.ebay.com/itm/121419469232
> 
> While I'm here does any one else like retro gaming and or retro rigs beside 939?


Nice, get your 8GB s939 game on like we do...


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Nice, get your 8GB s939 game on like we do...


Those were sticks SEAFs said to get, had them wish listed fora while then this deal popped up. I have an ASUS A8N32-SLI DELUXE. I just need to buy a kick'n CPU like the one Pioneer is selling and decent video card. My little Sister uses the machine for gaming now.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> Those were sticks SEAFs said to get, had them wish listed fora while then this deal popped up. I have an ASUS A8N32-SLI DELUXE. I just need to buy a kick'n CPU like the one Pioneer is selling and decent video card. My little Sister uses the machine for gaming now.


I know, i have the same setup.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> I know, i have the same setup.


so what do i need to to make it work? any setting to enable before installing the ram? I have similar machine at work, will it run 3 sticks? can i run 3 sticks of thi stuff with 1gb of regular non ecc?


----------



## seaFs

You can't mix reg ECC DIMMs with any other kind of RAM (neither ECC-unbuffered nor non-ECC-unbuffered). Also 3 sticks won't work. Working setups are 1 stick, 2 sticks or 4 sticks. The Athlon64 does not support asymmetric dual channel setups.

The A8N32 boots up fine with a reset bios and everything set to AUTO. Just make sure the CPU is Rev. E6. I have no clue whether Rev. E4 (San Diego / Manchester) works.
I suggest to clear CMOS before booting the first time.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> so what do i need to to make it work? any setting to enable before installing the ram? I have similar machine at work, will it run 3 sticks? can i run 3 sticks of thi stuff with 1gb of regular non ecc?


Keep one as an emergency backup, and run one rig with 4, other with 2. +spare in case one goes somehow.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Keep one as an emergency backup, and run one rig with 4, other with 2. +spare in case one goes somehow.


that's what i was thinking, if it plays ball with non eec then i can bump the other machine up to 6gb.


----------



## seaFs

Ozlay, can you shoot some photos of the 4GB sticks that don't want to boot? BTW, what mainboard and CPU are you using?


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> While I'm here does any one else like retro gaming and or retro rigs beside 939?


I enjoy almost any outdated platform.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> I enjoy almost any outdated platform.


Do you by any chance frequent the VOGONS.org forums? It's the OCN of outdated platforms also i think it is the home of the DOSbox devs.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> Do you by any chance frequent the VOGONS.org forums? It's the OCN of outdated platforms also i think it is the home of the DOSbox devs.


Didn't even know it existed. I'm checking it out now. Thanks.


----------



## ozlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Ozlay, can you shoot some photos of the 4GB sticks that don't want to boot? BTW, what mainboard and CPU are you using?


Asus A8N32-SLI-Deluxe 4800+ and 4600+ E6 with Apacer 4gb sticks standard 2.5v

the ram sticks are in a socket 940 server and work just fine in the server but when i put them in the 939 board they don't work

i dont have an actually picture of the A8N32 but its the same system in my sig the 939 rig

server


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## seaFs

Wow, that are some very high DIMMs. I thought you'd be using low-profile stacked DIMMs, like this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IBM-8GB-2-x-4GB-PC3200R-DDR-CL3-ECC-Memory-Registered-Server-Viking-/321362818103?nma=true&si=jTUCuAVrh3ojvMWfubCMJvOvHEM%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
Pity it doesn't work. Did you try just one DIMM or two DIMMs simultaniously?


----------



## ozlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Wow, that are some very high DIMMs. I thought you'd be using low-profile stacked DIMMs, like this:
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IBM-8GB-2-x-4GB-PC3200R-DDR-CL3-ECC-Memory-Registered-Server-Viking-/321362818103?nma=true&si=jTUCuAVrh3ojvMWfubCMJvOvHEM%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
> Pity it doesn't work. Did you try just one DIMM or two DIMMs simultaniously?


1 2 an 4


----------



## cdoublejj

holy crow! 4gb ddr1 sticks. i guess you could run just 2 to have 8gb of ram and only 2 sticks for better clocking.


----------



## vladv

What is the latest official BIOS for DFI LP UT NF4 SLI-DR Expert , and which is the best AND safest method to flash it ( I don't have floppy drive anymore )?


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vladv*
> 
> What is the latest official BIOS for DFI LP UT NF4 SLI-DR Expert , and which is the best AND safest method to flash it ( I don't have floppy drive anymore )?


BIOS IDK, but get a program that makes a Win98 boot disk from a USB flash drive. Boot to the flash drive during POST, and go through commands like normal. Its actually VERY easy, just have to find the software. I can help better once I get home tonight.

You could also use a BIOS flash tool that works from inside WinXP if you have a spare hdd and take time to install it, lol.









Unfortunately, I can't think of the names of any of the software as it's been YEARS.


----------



## seaFs

AFAIR DFI Baords were very picky with memory, so that users modded different BIOSes for different memory vendors/types. So what RAM are you using?


----------



## SwishaMane

First CPU OC on this new mobo with 8GB RAM! Seems pretty solid, but I dont plan to ruin my chip with burn ins. Ill just run until she BSOD, IF she does.











This chip wouldnt run 3ghz on the DFI Infinity. 2.95 MAX, not even one click above









What are we looking at for max clocks on this RAM seaFs? 240mhz or so?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> First CPU OC on this new mobo with 8GB RAM! Seems pretty solid, but I dont plan to ruin my chip with burn ins. Ill just run until she BSOD, IF she does.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This chip wouldnt run 3ghz on the DFI Infinity. 2.95 MAX, not even one click above


----------



## cdoublejj




----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*


----------



## SwishaMane

w00t! Thats 3 of us in the 8GB s939 arena.


----------



## nategr8ns

That's fricken awesome.


----------



## seaFs

Let's start benching and comparing memory access latencies


----------



## SwishaMane

With my current OC, Im getting 60ns latency. BUT, Im at tight timings, but slow freq. I also run MaxMemm as it feels more accurate for s939. We need to agree on software. I can run Aida no prob if I need to.

EDIT: Decided to run Aida64 anyway. Little better...


----------



## cdoublejj

http://www.vogons.org/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=40567

Vogons also has some 939ers


----------



## seaFs

cdoublejj, you really need to set 1T command rate. Gives the system a nice boost when it comes to minFPS in games and a bit better responsability when it comes to multi tasking.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> http://www.vogons.org/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=40567
> 
> Vogons also has some 939ers


STRANGER DANGER! lol

1t is perfectly stable for me with 4 dimms also. Like my screen, 2-3-3-8-8-1t @ 2.65v. NOT BAD! Im not even worried about OCing my RAM now.


----------



## seaFs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2154888/width/500/height/1000



Slightly better access latency by 25% overclock and tweaked sub timings. Back in December, half a year ago when I discovered the 8GB stuff, I benched a bit and noticed that the CPU with 3GHz could use even more bandwidth than just DDR500. even DDR530 with 2915MHz CPU (265x11) showed a little improvement in raw throughput numbers. Bandwidth is really depending on the CPU (memory controller) clock. Remember this, we are running the IMC at 3GHZ, which is much higher than stock Phenom2 and FX8xxx are using (both use 2.2 and 2.4GHz NB clock).

Unfortunately I can't run 3GHZ with DDR400. Maybe you can try using the same settings as I used, 11x273MHz. It doesn't even require chipst (NB) overvolt.
I guess you can go down with the CPU voltage a bit, the A8N32 does a pretty good job with the 4/8phase design. I'm also running just the 4 phases (8 phases only available when enabling "Overvolt CPU"), because I use RMClock for custom Coll'n'Quiet. Overvolt CPU adds 0.2V resulting in 1.31V idle at 1.3GHz. Without it's running 1.15V in idle. Still too high, if you asked me.


----------



## SwishaMane

I ended up dropping my CPU vCore to 1.385 (or w/e it is), and it still in the 1.41v range when running. I can try 273x11 tho. I just dont knwo if my memory will be stable at ddr500. Ill have to adjust timings to CAS 3.0.

Wait, 273x11 isnt 250Mhz.... ?? Only 214 or so. What is going on here?


----------



## cdoublejj

the biggest you can go as far as DDR500 kits go is 4gb if i'm not mistaken. it's fairly rare form what i under stand.


----------



## seaFs

Swisha: Have a look at my memory settings.
http://www.overclock.net/t/293448/the-socket-939-appreciation-club-and-knowledgebase-official/26600_100#post_22534446
The magic is "MemClock Value". Manually set it to 183, not 166. With a CPU multi of 11 this results in a memory divider of 12, making 3GHZ and DDR500. Also make sure to set AI Clock Skew to Advanced 300ps. The Auto setting adjusts this to delay 300ps and causes instabilities. The rest is up the RAM and your CPU.

cdoublejj: What do you mean?


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Swisha: Have a look at my memory settings.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/293448/the-socket-939-appreciation-club-and-knowledgebase-official/26600_100#post_22534446
> The magic is "MemClock Value". Manually set it to 183, not 166. With a CPU multi of 11 this results in a memory divider of 12, making 3GHZ and DDR500. Also make sure to set AI Clock Skew to Advanced 300ps. The Auto setting adjusts this to delay 300ps and causes instabilities. The rest is up the RAM and your CPU.


I'll try it, but according to the calculator, its only 231Mhz...


----------



## seaFs

Yes, because the calculator is wrong








AMD uses exact floating values, not integer numbers. When you put in 183.33333 (or even better, 550/3), then you'll get exaclty 12, not 12.02185 (which is rounded up to 13 by your program).

For calculating memory dividers better use a divisor of 3 and an integer number for the memory value.

100MHz = 300/3
133MHz = 400/3
150MHz = 450/3
166MHz = 500/3
183MHz = 550/3
200MHz = 600/3
216MHz = 650/3
233MHz = 700/3
250MHz = 750/3


----------



## SwishaMane

The calculator is old, but works VERY well when not in DFI mode apparently. I only used it because thats the only way to get dividers like 183, 150, etc. Cool tho. I will try this in due time today.


----------



## seaFs

DFI mode. Funny








Well, with the later BIOSes for the A8N32 more memory dividers were implemented (183, 216, 233, 250). The Rebels Haven Advanced Mod BIOS for the K8N Neo2 also supports 150. I'd need this divider for 3GHz and DDR400.


----------



## SwishaMane

240x12.5 @ 166 is 3ghz at 200mhz DRAM. Look at my newest CPU-Z.

EDIT: I just tried 273x11 @ 183. No boot condition. I coped all your values directly.


----------



## Kryton

I'll leave this here for the RAM tweaking nuts.


----------



## SwishaMane

Knew Bones would stick his nose in here.







Dang, 300mhz DRAM. THATS nuts, especially at Cas 2.5. Good job bro.


----------



## seaFs

Well, that's Samsung TCCD 2x512MB. The low memory DIMMs are very fast, while Samsung UCCC (1GB DIMMs) often has troubles hitting DDR500...

Found 16GB PC3200R at eBay. If it's gonna be cheap, I'll bet for it. Would be awesome to get a totally nuts 939 system








The Viking VLP stacked DIMMs are said to be 8mm thick, making them just a tiny bit wider than my OCZ Platinum sticks with heat spreaders (7mm). But this will be a squeezy thing, maybe you'd even need to bend the DIMMs in the slots. Fortunately there's some space around the RAM slots and I have active cooling.

I also had a look at the JEDEC specs for DDR1. There are specifications for 8GB (eight gigabytes!) VLP registered DIMMs, but no vendor ever manufactured them. Same goes with 2GB unregistered DIMMs, but that would cause too much stress for the address lines.


----------



## cdoublejj

i did a 20 hours of testing with my 2gb dimms, passed prime 95. didn't ever think to see how hot the chips were getting. i get crashing but, i'm %99.9 it's video card since it artifacts before it crashes and it's a known bad video card. just can't afford a new video card. i have seen some $50 USD HD6850s on the ocn market place.


----------



## nleksan

Can I join even though I have Socket 940?









I do have lots of 939 chips, but no board that'll OC them...

940 Rig:
- A64 FX-51
- Asus SK8V
- 2x 512MB Corsair XMS3200RE
- ATI X800XT-PE

I have very little RE memory, but about 200+ sticks of DDR1 (mostly 333/400)...


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Well, that's Samsung TCCD 2x512MB. The low memory DIMMs are very fast, while Samsung UCCC (1GB DIMMs) often has troubles hitting DDR500...


That's true, these are indeed Samsung TCCD sticks (PC 4000 Patriots) with stock CL3 4-4-8 timings.
These can run CAS 2 up to about 250 or so so stable and you can see what these can do at CAS 2.5. When I frist tried these sticks I though they weren't very good with the stock timings they have but they proved me wrong and happily so.









I have another set like them (Corsair) with a PC 4400 rating and can clock in similar fashion - However I've noted for some reason the latency of Corsair sticks seems like it's slower for some reason, with identical timings, voltages, hardware and all, they just don't give the same results. Noted this with other sets of Corsair sticks as well with different IC's in them but Corsair does make good RAM, I have no real complaints about them.... Except that maybe but nothing else.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Well, that's Samsung TCCD 2x512MB. The low memory DIMMs are very fast, while Samsung UCCC (1GB DIMMs) often has troubles hitting DDR500...
> 
> 
> 
> That's true, these are indeed Samsung TCCD sticks (PC 4000 Patriots) with stock CL3 4-4-8 timings.
> These can run CAS 2 up to about 250 or so so stable and you can see what these can do at CAS 2.5. *When I frist tried these sticks I though they weren't very good with the stock timings* they have but they proved me wrong and happily so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have another set like them (Corsair) with a PC 4400 rating and can clock in similar fashion - However I've noted for some reason the latency of Corsair sticks seems like it's slower for some reason, with identical timings, voltages, hardware and all, they just don't give the same results. Noted this with other sets of Corsair sticks as well with different IC's in them but Corsair does make good RAM, I have no real complaints about them.... Except that maybe but nothing else.
Click to expand...

I felt the same way with my patriots, but after investing some time in them, they gave me some decent results. I went on from the submission below to hit 320 before they tuckered out, but I haven't got the validation to prove that







. I figured I would be able to hit that again, but I haven't been able to.


----------



## vladv

@ nleksan

Of course,you're welcome in our 939 fan club!


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Can I join even though I have Socket 940?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do have lots of 939 chips, but no board that'll OC them...
> 
> 940 Rig:
> - A64 FX-51
> - Asus SK8V
> - 2x 512MB Corsair XMS3200RE
> - ATI X800XT-PE
> 
> I have very little RE memory, but about 200+ sticks of DDR1 (mostly 333/400)...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *txtmstrjoe*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First, it's an informal gathering place for OCNers who have a true appreciation for AMD's classic S939 platform. So, anyone who has *ever* run a S939 Opteron, Athlon64 FX, Athlon64 X2, Athlon64, or even Sempron is welcome to join! In this thread, we'll hopefully have fun conversations about our beloved S939 CPUs, motherboards, and chipsets. We don't even have to restrict our talk to just about S939 while in here, too; all we ask is that we all have a true and mutual respect for each other.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


PWND


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*


I was just too lazy to reach and get the keyboard so did a cut and paste reply.

Your more than welcome nleksan.


----------



## cdoublejj

Just checked page 1 and i'm on there for this, http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1500830

why is it rare? is that not just cool and quiet kicking in? Maybe i should be updated for my sisters 8gb s939 rig. It was going to be my Bro's back up but, it was taking too much space.

I like the banner.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> Just checked page 1 and i'm on there for this, http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1500830
> 
> why is it rare? is that not just cool and quiet kicking in? Maybe i should be updated for my sisters 8gb s939 rig. It was going to be my Bro's back up but, it was taking too much space.
> 
> I like the banner.


LOL, yeah I think they are only updated by request. that must have been your proof for membership when that was required. Funny I had the same chip as you at the time I joined. And I never had it updated either


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> LOL, yeah I think they are only updated by request. that must have been your proof for membership when that was required. Funny I had the same chip as you at the time I joined. And I never had it updated either


If i'm not mistaken that is the chip that came in the Compaq my dad bought me at BestBuy in the summer of 06. I was already messing around with computer but, when i got my first job not long after that ...I had no idea what i'd just started. Wow brings back the memories and it hasn't quite been 10 years yet. Might as well keep the current 939 system my sister is using since it's the last bastion of my S939 rig. Wonder how far I can upgrade it and take it with out phase cooling.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I think for any updates, you'll have to contact el gappo. Joe hasn't been seen around on OCN for years now. We probably should have somebody else takeover the thread, but we'd need Joe's permission.


----------



## seaFs

txtmstrjoe: last online 2 days ago


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> txtmstrjoe: last online 2 days ago


Yeah, but I don't even know if he responds to PM's. He hasn't posted in forever.


----------



## SwishaMane

Yeah, he also sold the prize I won few years ago during one of our winter OC competitions. LOL


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Yeah, he also sold the prize I won few years ago during one of our winter OC competitions. LOL


That doesn't sound like Joe at all. Must have been a miscommunication. What did you win? I may have one gathering dust.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> That doesn't sound like Joe at all. Must have been a miscommunication. What did you win? I may have one gathering dust.


I remember pretty well. He eventually got with me about it. He was hard on cash, and needed to sell them to pay bills. It was a 2GB 2x1GB set of Mushkin Redlines, DDR500. I believe me and another winner traded prizes because he needed the CPU, and I wanted the RAM. It's perfectly fine tho. It just took MONTHS for me to find out what was up.

And back then, that RAM was probably worth $50 shipped on fleaBay, so I don't blame him...









http://www.overclock.net/t/873566/socket-939-winter-overclocking-contests#post_11420416


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> I remember pretty well. He eventually got with me about it. He was hard on cash, and needed to sell them to pay bills. It was a 2GB 2x1GB set of Mushkin Redlines, DDR500. I believe me and another winner traded prizes because he needed the CPU, and I wanted the RAM. It's perfectly fine tho. It just took MONTHS for me to find out what was up.
> 
> And back then, that RAM was probably worth $50 shipped on fleaBay, so I don't blame him...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/873566/socket-939-winter-overclocking-contests#post_11420416


But you gave him permission to keep and sell it, Correct? Your post sounded like he just stole it. I have been looking for some replacement memory for you. None of my stuff went that late in the game.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> But you gave him permission to keep and sell it, Correct? Your post sounded like he just stole it. I have been looking for some replacement memory for you. None of my stuff went that late in the game.


He was the donator of the prize, I think. It was sold way before I ever found out. I had been watching my mailbox for months wondering "when is my prize coming?" lol

Its perfectly fine tho. The contest was fun. Im running one s939 rig now, and its at 8GB RAM. NOT WORRIED, ha ha









And no, I wanted them bad... NEEDED them bad... back then.

Long almost forgotten about....


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> He was the donator of the prize, I think. It was sold way before I ever found out. I had been watching my mailbox for months wondering "when is my prize coming?" lol
> 
> Its perfectly fine tho. The contest was fun. Im running one s939 rig now, and its at 8GB RAM. NOT WORRIED, ha ha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And no, I wanted them bad... NEEDED them bad... back then.
> 
> Long almost forgotten about....


Sorry to hear that, That is not like Joe at all. He must have forgotten about it. When I get a chance I'll find something for you.


----------



## cdoublejj

Well we could try sending him a PM and if that fails we could try to find an email addy and if that fails there may still be other ways to contact him.


----------



## SwishaMane

Don't worry about it guys. lol


----------



## blooder11181

trying to recover a athlon fx-60


----------



## nleksan

Thanks for the warm welcome









Here are various pictures for you to enjoy






















I actually want to try and "mod/update" my two oldest cases, but don't know what I should do... Really just looking for improved cooling and cable routing, but if any of you have any ideas, I'd love to hear them!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## ozlay

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Thanks for the warm welcome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are various pictures for you to enjoy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually want to try and "mod/update" my two oldest cases, but don't know what I should do... Really just looking for improved cooling and cable routing, but if any of you have any ideas, I'd love to hear them!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Nice FX51


----------



## gasparspeed

Hi guys. I have a question about my Socket 939 system. Today i bought an FX-60 and it came with the CCB2E stepping core. But when i check in CPUWorld that Stepping core, my Datacode (all that numbers and letters that came after the Stepping Core) CPUWorld says that this FX-60 with this Datacode doesn't Exist.

This is the second line of info print on the IHS: [Stepping core, then datacode] CCB3E 0536SPMW

The only datacodes listed in there that start in 0536 have an U or an W after it, not an S.

This is the page where shows all the datacodes from CCB2E Stepping Cores CPUs, but mine is not listed. Did I get a rare version of the FX-60?
http://www.cpu-world.com/step_codes/C/CCB2E.html

Edit: now i found that Datacode on the ACB2E Stepping core FX-60, but mine is CCB2E...


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozlay*
> 
> 
> Nice FX51


That's a really old one, it's actually the oldest one I've ever seen - Seriously, I have Socket A chips with a later date than that chip has.









Probrably doesn't clock as well as newer ones but it's still an FX chip.


----------



## SwishaMane

Or it clocks the best... lol

Maybe a chinese fake? I swear I had an Opty 180 that was FAKE. Barely looked and felt like a real CPU, and barely ran too...


----------



## nleksan

Nope, it's legit... Actually got it from a friend in the business about a week before they were supposed to start being sold (he worked at a distributor); first batch, and heavily binned. 2.5GHz+ on air, another 150-250MHz on water!


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Hi guys. I have a question about my Socket 939 system. Today i bought an FX-60 and it came with the CCB2E stepping core. But when i check in CPUWorld that Stepping core, my Datacode (all that numbers and letters that came after the Stepping Core) CPUWorld says that this FX-60 with this Datacode doesn't Exist.
> 
> This is the second line of info print on the IHS: [Stepping core, then datacode] CCB3E 0536SPMW
> 
> The only datacodes listed in there that start in 0536 have an U or an W after it, not an S.
> 
> This is the page where shows all the datacodes from CCB2E Stepping Cores CPUs, but mine is not listed. Did I get a rare version of the FX-60?
> http://www.cpu-world.com/step_codes/C/CCB2E.html
> 
> .


From CPU World:
Quote:


> NOTE: The list of stepping codes is not complete, and is constantly updated. If you want to add stepping code to the list please post a comment with processor picture with visible markings, or type in complete first (part number) and second (stepping and date code) lines from your CPU. You can alternatively use AMD stepping code submission page to post the same information.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Thanks for the warm welcome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are various pictures for you to enjoy
> 
> I actually want to try and "mod/update" my two oldest cases, but don't know what I should do... Really just looking for improved cooling and cable routing, but if any of you have any ideas, I'd love to hear them!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Keep in mind newegg and eBay sell IDE SSDs now.


----------



## eternalenergy311

Holy [email protected] 8 GB of ram!! I haven't been on here for a few weeks but how did I miss this?! Anyway, would love to pay someone to mod me some of those sticks, but I'm sure there is no way my board will support it, and I've never found any decent bios for it, KN1-Sli lite, if any knows of any? Opty 180 does run all day stable for almost year now at 2900 +, just wish I could get the board to utilize even all 4 gigs of memory decently. Took me almost two years to get the second set of redlines and I feel like I'm wasting them. I use this rig primarily as a HTPC as well. Lots of Plex, lots of traffic.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*
> 
> Holy [email protected] 8 GB of ram!! I haven't been on here for a few weeks but how did I miss this?! Anyway, would love to pay someone to mod me some of those sticks, but I'm sure there is no way my board will support it, and I've never found any decent bios for it, KN1-Sli lite, if any knows of any? Opty 180 does run all day stable for almost year now at 2900 +, just wish I could get the board to utilize even all 4 gigs of memory decently. Took me almost two years to get the second set of redlines and I feel like I'm wasting them. I use this rig primarily as a HTPC as well. Lots of Plex, lots of traffic.


8GB of RAM in s939 is getting pretty standard now for us... 3 months ago, one guy found some 2GB dimms that booted, then we followed... lol









Only the beginning...

I have successfully modded one dimm, with only enough supplies to do 3 more. I could send you one to test...


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> From CPU World:


Oh, well, i will add my datacode to the page. The thing is that the guy who selled it to me messed up with the ihs and most of the codes and names are unreadable...

Also, run with 10 ºC of difference on temps between Core 1 and Core 2 on that FX-60 is normal? I idle at 25 ºC Core 1 and 35 ºC on Core 2


----------



## blooder11181

cpu and board are dead.

its gettting so hard to find a cheap 939 parts


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Also, run with 10 ºC of difference on temps between Core 1 and Core 2 on that FX-60 is normal? I idle at 25 ºC Core 1 and 35 ºC on Core 2


It happens. I have a few dual cores like that. Most of the time it's because the TIM under the IHS starts to fail. Another cause is a non flat IHS. I usually de-lid when I run into those problems.


----------



## ozlay

I have a 940 rig









2.2ghz opteron 875x8 128gigs of ram




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozlay*
> 
> I have a 940 rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2.2ghz opteron 875x8 128gigs of ram
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Holy S***
Nice


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> It happens. I have a few dual cores like that. Most of the time it's because the TIM under the IHS starts to fail. Another cause is a non flat IHS. I usually de-lid when I run into those problems.


It could be because non flat IHS. The last owner passed a sander over the top of the IHS just for take off the TIM







... It's all scratched... well, still 54 ºC on the hottest core at full load is pretty good.
There isn't any method to solve this without de-lidding right?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> It happens. I have a few dual cores like that. Most of the time it's because the TIM under the IHS starts to fail. Another cause is a non flat IHS. I usually de-lid when I run into those problems.
> 
> 
> 
> It could be because non flat IHS. The last owner passed a sander over the top of the IHS just for take off the TIM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... It's all scratched... well, still 54 ºC on the hottest core at full load is pretty good.
> There isn't any method to solve this without de-lidding right?
Click to expand...

You could lap it.









My 165 (I miss that chip) was about 8c off between the cores. Still was a golden chip. My X2 3800 Manny was about 12c off between the cores too. Lapped it and got them about 5c off. Never lapped my golden opty, wasn't worth it since I was at 3.15ghz stable with only 1.40v lol. She did 3ghz under volted.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> You could lap it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 165 (I miss that chip) was about 8c off between the cores. Still was a golden chip. My X2 3800 Manny was about 12c off between the cores too. Lapped it and got them about 5c off. Never lapped my golden opty, wasn't worth it since I was at 3.15ghz stable with only 1.40v lol. She did 3ghz under volted.


I never de-lidded a CPU (i have to say i'm a bit scared of doing it). I've saw videos showing how to do it on i7 4770Ks but it's not the same i think...
Also i have to think about it, because i'm not going to OC it till i get a A8N-SLI... actually my board sucks and hasn't any VRM cooling so no OC...
Is there any guide or somethink like that for 939 Athlons?


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> It could be because non flat IHS. The last owner passed a sander over the top of the IHS just for take off the TIM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... It's all scratched... well, still 54 ºC on the hottest core at full load is pretty good.
> There isn't any method to solve this without de-lidding right?


The scratches on the lid can contribute to temp problems - Lapping removes these imperfections and gives a better surface contact between the CPU's lid and the cooler/block. I'd go ahead and give it a good sanding with some really fine sandpaper to smooth and polish it up.
The TIM you use is also important so don't expect alot from the cheap stuff.

The cheapest "Good" stuff to get that I've seen would be AS5 Ceramique - Works well, cheap and a tube of it lasts a long time since it takes very little to do an application per CPU.

Delidding isn't as bad as you'd think but there is still some risk involved. I've done a few and did mess up one (Opty 165).
That chip still works but it's really wonky now.


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> 8GB of RAM in s939 is getting pretty standard now for us... 3 months ago, one guy found some 2GB dimms that booted, then we followed... lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only the beginning...
> 
> I have successfully modded one dimm, with only enough supplies to do 3 more. I could send you one to test...


Thanks, I may give that some thought. Might need new memory after October anyway?

Still just don't get why I can't get past the whole 3.25 GB useable memory thing. If I flash CMOS, it detects correctly the first boot. As soon as I touch memory timings it only shows like 340k?


----------



## seaFs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> 8GB of RAM in s939 is getting pretty standard now for us... 3 months ago, one guy found some 2GB dimms that booted, then we followed... lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only the beginning...
> 
> I have successfully modded one dimm, with only enough supplies to do 3 more. I could send you one to test...


Hey, I've found out about this in December 2013. But 9 months back there wasn't such a big response.
And go back another 5 years and you'll find ONE thread with one answer that mentions at least 939 8GB with no OC.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Hey, I've found out about this in December 2013. But 9 months back there wasn't such a big response.
> And go back another 5 years and you'll find ONE thread with one answer that mentions at least 939 8GB with no OC.


And that rocks, because now we know the trick to get s939 into 2014...









On that next level, space ship ish.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozlay*
> 
> I have a 940 rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2.2ghz opteron 875x8 128gigs of ram
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


wait, are you running 4 quads or 4 duals with 2 cores + 2 threads each? i though 940 was closer to 939 than am2? did they have quads on the server market only? if 940 is closer to 939 HOW close is it? 771 to 775 conversion mod close?


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> 8GB of RAM in s939 is getting pretty standard now for us... 3 months ago, one guy found some 2GB dimms that booted, then we followed... lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only the beginning...
> 
> I have successfully modded one dimm, with only enough supplies to do 3 more. I could send you one to test...


No you don't HAVE to mod, at least if you have the right mobo, the asus a8 mobos support them.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Hey, I've found out about this in December 2013. But 9 months back there wasn't such a big response.
> And go back another 5 years and you'll find ONE thread with one answer that mentions at least 939 8GB with no OC.


I saw one post that was few/several years old when i found it a few years ago he said it would boot with 2 sticks in. I never came acrossed ANY threads speaking of success.


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> wait, are you running 4 quads or 4 duals with 2 cores + 2 threads each? i though 940 was closer to 939 than am2? did they have quads on the server market only? if 940 is closer to 939 HOW close is it? 771 to 775 conversion mod close?


It's an octa-socket system, there are two quad-socket boards, you can see the DIMMs below the upper board. Lower one looks like it's the main board, upper one looks more like an expansion board and it's somehow connected to the lower one, possibly through that 64-bit PCI card above the Quadro. I don't see any other connectors except the power delivery so that 64-bit PCI card is likely the interconnect. I'm not familiar with workstations though, so some (or all) of this could be wrong.

Either way, that thing has 8 processors, no doubt about that, Opteron 875 is a 2.2GHz dual-core.

By the way, my 4.4GHz 8320 just got beaten by 8 year old tech, it scores 7.60CB.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> It's an octa-socket system, there are two quad-socket boards, you can see the DIMMs below the upper board. Lower one looks like it's the main board, upper one looks more like an expansion board and it's somehow connected to the lower one, possibly through that 64-bit PCI card above the Quadro. I don't see any other connectors except the power delivery so that 64-bit PCI card is likely the interconnect. I'm not familiar with workstations though, so some (or all) of this could be wrong.
> 
> Either way, that thing has 8 processors, no doubt about that, Opteron 875 is a 2.2GHz dual-core.
> 
> By the way, my 4.4GHz 8320 just got beaten by 8 year old tech, it scores 7.60CB.


WOW! that is definitely a server grade piece of hardware right there!!!!

Man if 775 wasn't a thing it might have been a decent gamble to get dual socket 940 board back in the day. Would have had known 8gb support and 4 cores and pop in decent PCIe video card and that thing would have aged well. as far as WS/gaming machine.


----------



## seaFs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> WOW! that is definitely a server grade piece of hardware right there!!!!
> 
> Man if 775 wasn't a thing it might have been a decent gamble to get dual socket 940 board back in the day. Would have had known 8gb support and 4 cores and pop in decent PCIe video card and that thing would have aged well. as far as WS/gaming machine.


Nah, you don't want that







It's the same problem as with the 775/771 quads, the FSB is the limiting factor as soon as core communication os needed. Then the HT Link with 1000MHz is heavily bottlenecking the whole system with it's 8GB/s total bandwidth (up- and downstream summed up). 775/771 quads have at least the short FSB connection on the CPU PCB, but the dual/quad socket 940 systems have to go over the chipset, increasing latency.
But, hell yeah, I'd like to overclock at least a dual socket 940 system and get 4x3.0 GHz with some decent memory clocks. Then you don't need a heater in winter


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Nah, you don't want that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's the same problem as with the 775/771 quads, the FSB is the limiting factor as soon as core communication os needed. Then the HT Link with 1000MHz is heavily bottlenecking the whole system with it's 8GB/s total bandwidth (up- and downstream summed up). 775/771 quads have at least the short FSB connection on the CPU PCB, but the dual/quad socket 940 systems have to go over the chipset, increasing latency.
> But, hell yeah, I'd like to overclock at least a dual socket 940 system and get 4x3.0 GHz with some decent memory clocks. Then you don't need a heater in winter


Well i mean back in the day, having used it till today. it might have aged well.


----------



## toughacton

Thinking of taking the 8 gig 939 plunge myself, after seeing you guys do it successfully. I am running an A8R32-MVP though instead of the SLI board. It does have an ECC enable option in the BIOS though, so I imagine it would work. Of course I don't have an extra 64 bit copy of windows at the moment to even use 8 gigs. Anyone have any experience trying to get windows 8.1 to work on 939? I should be able to get a copy of that from the university I work for (I've already gotten my allotment of windows 7 copies on other machines).


----------



## SwishaMane

People run legit copies of windows? ??

The 8GB jump was worth it very much. The loss of read / write speeds on my DRAM wasn't a bother. Having 4x more memory, and an even higher stable CPU OC has bridged the gap. Performance of my s939 setup is amazing, especially with a SSD. Almost feels like a current day machine. Minus 3D capabilities, lol

I still can't get anywhere near my record 3DMark06 score on this machine tho...







I broke 11k tho, stock 200Mhz DRAM freq... If I could get that DDR500 stable, I bet Id be REAL close to my 11.6k record.


----------



## seaFs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Anyone have any experience trying to get windows 8.1 to work on 939? I should be able to get a copy of that from the university I work for (I've already gotten my allotment of windows 7 copies on other machines).


No, Windows 8.1 64bit won't install on socket 939, because some instructions are missing. Also some socket 775 CPU/chipset combinations are not supported. Better go for Windows 7 64bit, instead.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> The 8GB jump was worth it very much. The loss of read / write speeds on my DRAM wasn't a bother. Having 4x more memory, and an even higher stable CPU OC has bridged the gap. Performance of my s939 setup is amazing, especially with a SSD. Almost feels like a current day machine. Minus 3D capabilities, lol
> 
> I still can't get anywhere near my record 3DMark06 score on this machine tho...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I broke 11k tho, stock 200Mhz DRAM freq... If I could get that DDR500 stable, I bet Id be REAL close to my 11.6k record.


Well, you definitely must prepare for 10-15% less performance compared to DDR500 CL2 BH-5. Or DDR600 CL2.5 TCCD. But even Windows XP was not a big joy with 1GB RAM. AFAIR there is no 1GB DIMM that can take DDR500 with CL2.5, let alone CL2. You are tied to CL3 for those amounts of memory.

Anyway, how about that?

3165MHz @ 1.55V
263MHz 3-3-4-8 2.8V
HD4890 Vapor-X 870/1050
11663 3DMark 2006 @ WinXP

This was totally CPU-limited, except for one or two short scenes. The most stupid thing is Deep Freeze, which is a single thread IPC test. One core at 100% load, the other one idling around at 25%.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> AFAIR there is no 1GB DIMM that can take DDR500 with CL2.5, You are tied to CL3 for those amounts of memory.


Sounds like a good challenge.








There are. I have a set or two.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> No, Windows 8.1 64bit won't install on socket 939, because some instructions are missing. Also some socket 775 CPU/chipset combinations are not supported. Better go for Windows 7 64bit, instead.
> Well, you definitely must prepare for 10-15% less performance compared to DDR500 CL2 BH-5. Or DDR600 CL2.5 TCCD. But even Windows XP was not a big joy with 1GB RAM. AFAIR there is no 1GB DIMM that can take DDR500 with CL2.5, let alone CL2. You are tied to CL3 for those amounts of memory.
> 
> Anyway, how about that?
> 
> 3165MHz @ 1.55V
> 263MHz 3-3-4-8 2.8V
> HD4890 Vapor-X 870/1050
> 11663 3DMark 2006 @ WinXP
> 
> This was totally CPU-limited, except for one or two short scenes. The most stupid thing is Deep Freeze, which is a single thread IPC test. One core at 100% load, the other one idling around at 25%.


Execute Bit Disable "NX"... guess what 8/8.1 don't actually need it has been installed on non NX CPUs in consumer and developers previews, also retail but, the kernel has to patched, and patched again after ever set of updates. It's merely a simple check as it can run once the check is bypassed and it's installed and the NX feature in control panel is greyed out.

I've done some reading on windows 8 my self, i can for every thing new it offers it takes something away. it's neither better or worse than windows 7, even with the metro GUI. i actually made a crappy write about it her on OCN that explains the Pros and cons of windows 8. A lot of which most people aren't aware of mainly application incompatibility (it is an issue with some games and apps on 8) .

Long story short you aren't missing out on any thing if it indeed can't be installed.

EDIT: why does your 939 system have qmoda ram listed as 500? is it just OCed or should i have gotten some ddr500 versions?


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> No you don't HAVE to mod, at least if you have the right mobo, the asus a8 mobos support them.
> I saw one post that was few/several years old when i found it a few years ago he said it would boot with 2 sticks in. I never came acrossed ANY threads speaking of success.


Don't have to mod? Then what 2gb sticks are available stock, that have worked on any s939 board?


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*
> 
> Don't have to mod? Then what 2gb sticks are available stock, that have worked on any s939 board?


Plug and Play, http://www.ebay.com/itm/121419469232?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## ozlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> possibly through that 64-bit PCI card above the Quadro. I don't see any other connectors except the power delivery so that 64-bit PCI card is likely the interconnect. I'm not familiar with workstations though, so some (or all) of this could be wrong.


it uses some sort of pcie 16x connectors are 2 of them located between the 4 cpus works with pcie risers and yeah i have an extra set of boards


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> Plug and Play, http://www.ebay.com/itm/121419469232?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


Awesome. Thank you cdoublejj, I think I will take that 7.77 bet.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternalenergy311*
> 
> Awesome. Thank you cdoublejj, I think I will take that 7.77 bet.


sorry if i mislead you that is an auction i snagged/bought. But, they can be had for cheap and if you get that same exact model, all i had to do was clear CMOS, install 1 stick, enable the memory hole, save shut down and install the rest of the sticks.

If you don't enable the memory hole the motherboard is all like "I don't under stand what happening", memory hole allows it to allocate more than 3.5gb of ram correctly.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> AFAIR there is no 1GB DIMM that can take DDR500 with CL2.5, You are tied to CL3 for those amounts of memory.
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds like a good challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are. I have a set or two.
Click to expand...

I had 4x1GB of Corsair XMS "DDR400", perfectly matching set. Either set of 2GB (2x1GB) would run 500 no problem at 2.5-3-3-6-1T. They would both also run at 550-567 ish with 3-3-3-8-1T (with just 2 sticks). No sure how far I could've pushed them honestly. I do remember POST'ing at 600, never getting into Windows though.

I really miss my Opty, A8N32-SLI Deluxe, and 4GB XMS, lol.

I think the RAM thing......is more or less dependant on A) Your luck of the draw with the IMC on the CPU...... B) Luck of the draw with RAM.


----------



## SwishaMane

I tried the Qimonda ECC RAM in my DFI Infinity Ultra, and it didn't work for anything... Not even after setting BIOs with known working RAM and switching. Not even single channel with1 dimm. Some boards are JUST NOt going to boot the ECC RAM.

Do you guys think it would still require an E6 CPU even when not running in ECC mode? Given that E6 is the only stepping to support ECC RAM?


----------



## blooder11181

found a hp tower that user 939 motherboard athlon 64 cpu


----------



## eternalenergy311

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> I tried the Qimonda ECC RAM in my DFI Infinity Ultra, and it didn't work for anything... Not even after setting BIOs with known working RAM and switching. Not even single channel with1 dimm. Some boards are JUST NOt going to boot the ECC RAM.
> 
> Do you guys think it would still require an E6 CPU even when not running in ECC mode? Given that E6 is the only stepping to support ECC RAM?


That's my fear as well. My board doesn't specify anywhere in the specs weather it will support ECC.I also do not see any thing about memory hole mapping, but I'll prob try it anyway.


----------



## seaFs

Alright, I ordered 4x4GB VLP ECCreg DIMMs. Shot them for 5€ each at ebay. Should be here tomorrow or Thursday. Cross fingers that the A8N32 will boot with them. And that they all fit into the slots^^


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Alright, I ordered 4x4GB VLP ECCreg DIMMs. Shot them for 5€ each at ebay. Should be here tomorrow or Thursday. Cross fingers that the A8N32 will boot with them. And that they all fit into the slots^^


/crosses fingers

I hope so too. I'm pretty happy with the 8GB, so I'm not going to push my luck. But DWAAAAAMMM!!! 16GB in a s939 would be killer bro. lol









Useless, but killer...


----------



## seaFs

Read the thread at vogons. http://www.vogons.org/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=40567&start=20#p378076
This member claims that 4x4GB ran with 550MHz. Let's see how far I can push it. I still think that the IMC of my Toledo holds back better memory clocks.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Read the thread at vogons. http://www.vogons.org/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=40567&start=20#p378076
> This member claims that 4x4GB ran with 550MHz. Let's see how far I can push it. I still think that the IMC of my Toledo holds back better memory clocks.


Thread thoroughly looked through. Awesome read. 16GB is very possible. Doesn't change the fact its useless tho with such low performing CPUs, well, compared to now-a-days. I can't wait to see your results, but I'm gonna stick it out with 8GB. PLEASE report on whats going on with that RAM first thing when it comes through! The world needs to know.

Like that guy said, this is undocumented territory. At this rate, we should be able to figure out how to get 8GB in a socket A setup with only 3 dimms. lol

EDIT: Im gonna be honest man, I don't think that fat 4GB VLP is going to work. If its this type...



Look that base where connector is, and how the heat spreader flares a bit to go around RAM slot connector. Now look how close the RAM slots are...



Its going to be such a tight fit they actually get bent in, OR, you're gonna have to do some modding. Maybe just remove the flared bottom of the heat spreader altogether?

Of course that flare is only on one side of the RAM tho, so maybe. They seem to be as fat as the RAM slot in total, so they should fit. IDK, we'll see I guess!


----------



## seaFs

Using Socket A you are tied to the AMD chipsets, because all the desktop chipsets of nVidia, VIA and SiS don't support registered RAM. And the AMD 760 chipset is a poor performer


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Using Socket A you are tied to the AMD chipsets, because all the desktop chipsets of nVidia, VIA and SiS don't support registered RAM. And the AMD 760 chipset is a poor performer


IDK if you seen the edit to my previous above post.

I'm kind of getting a tickle to go 16GB if you can get it to work too. As long as I can get the RAM for cheap. I can also pass down my left over RAM to other members for a discount to move it out and help you guys get 8GB too!


----------



## seaFs

Yep, I've seen it, but never found this good picture of the DIMMs you posted. Thanks.
I've read that the DIMMs have a thickness of eight millimeters, which is slightly more than OCZ Platinum DIMMs with heat spreader (7mm). chances are good that this might fit.

I ordered the Viking sticks with the big blue shielding and the silver clamp, which seems to be dismountable pretty easy. The IBM sticks have some sort of plating around the stacked chips, making it possibly harder to tear them off. I'm prepared for bending the DIMMs in the slots a bit to the side. I'm not prepared for the heat they may develop. In a few days we'll know more.


----------



## SwishaMane

Having 8 or 16GB in the system, we should think about using some for RAM DISK purposes. Specifically, benchmark progs, caches, and games we know run well on s939. I'm going to experiment tonight on 8GB with a 2GB RAMDISK for cache and benchmark use.

Having cache on the RAMDISK will reduce wear on the SSD. My SSD is slowly dying Im sure, so helping all I can will delay its demise.

Any other RAMDISK usages you guys can think of? If we can get 16GB going, the disk could be larger, up to 4GB with DataRam's free ramdisk, and that could prove HANDY...









Especially with it's ability to backup the image, and reload it on boot automatically, it could eventually become a background thing you dont even think about after awhile. It. Just. DO.


----------



## seaFs

I have disabled hybernation and put a 1GB page file on my fastest hard disk for compatibility reasons and to prevent the system to instantly kill tasks in case no more memory is available. Only OS and programs I often use are stored on my SSD. I even remapped the temp folder to my fastest HDD. Browser hard disk cache is disabled, so that everything is stored in the RAM.

But to really use this amount of RAM you need to work with Windows Vista/7 or later. All additional RAM is used as disk cache. That comes in handy when playing online and often changing maps. Loading times are decreased significantly.

RAM disks are only useful for temporal things, for unpacking archives or installing programs I want to uninstall shortly thereafter. I use IMdisk, a freeware tool that is used to mount disk images and has the ability to create RAM disks as well. Nothing sophisticated, no HDD emulation, but a backup function is possible and with some tricks you can put the pagefile on it and load at system startup. Needs some tweaking though. But who needs a fast pagefile, when you have more RAM than you can ever fill in normal day tasks.


----------



## seaFs

No succes with the 4GB VLP DIMMs. No boot. the sticks become warm, but that's all.
SPD data shows 4 ranks, 4 banks, some tighter sub timings than my Qimonda DIMMs, but everything else looks the same.

The DIMMs have an aluminium heat spreader around the stacked BGA chips. Yes, these are REAL heat spreaders, using some sort of thermal tape that has perfect contact with the chips. You also can see the silicon from the side. Pictures coming later. Pity it doesn't work. I removed one heat spreader and it looks weird.

With the heat spreaders mounted only two DIMMs can be installed. One slot is not able to take a DIMM, because a capacitor blocks the way.

I tried one and two DIMMs in differnet slots, no boot. So 25€ for nothing. Wasn't that expensive


----------



## SwishaMane

BOO! If they worked, capacitors can be moved. Maybe SPD modding time?


----------



## seaFs

hmm..maybe it's time to get a 940 system









I think it's more of a BIOS problem, since the 940 systems boot well with 4 GB DIMMs, and the silicon is exactly the same.
I tried CR2 T and 166MHz memory clock, everything set to auto, even CPU clocks. A CMOS reset did nothing.
Gonna check for the EEPROM in the evening when I'm back from work.


----------



## SwishaMane

No no no... This is supposed to be desktop arena pushing server like memory capacities, THATS impressive. Getting a SERVER board, SERVER CPU, and SERVER RAM isn't impressive.

Getting an everyday desktop board to support server memory and capacities, THATS impressive!









lol, Im just picking on ya. Gotta admit tho, it felt good getting a board most ran with 2Gb, up to 8, and ALMOST 16... WOAH! Good thing i didnt drop $10 shipped on 32GB of this RAM. Waste of 10 bones. ha ha


----------



## SwishaMane

What you guys think of this RAM? I found it on eBay, $20 a stick, wonder if it would work?

Samsung M312L5128AU1, sometimes ' M312L5128AU1-CCC '. Im curious, but not dropping $40 for 2, or $80 for 4, for an experiment.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1x-4GB-184pin-PC3200-Reg-ECC-DDR-Server-Memory-Samsung-Orig-M312L5128AU1-CCC-/131068076509?pt=US_Memory_RAM_&hash=item1e844421dd

Datasheet:

http://www.datasheets360.com/part/detail/m312l5128au1-ccc/-3654527100525000766/


----------



## seaFs

Try this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/16GB-Samsung-4X4GB-PC2700-DDR-ECC-RAM-CL2-5-M312L5128Au0-cb3-PC2700R-25331-/331269958002?pt=US_Memory_RAM_&hash=item4d213a6972
PC2700 CL2.5, might overclock as well.


----------



## SwishaMane

Hmm... They would PROBABLY be capable of DDR400 barely, but no more I'm sure. And that would be pushing timings in the 3-3-3-8, with MAYBE 1t... IDK if its worth it. A single dimm to test would be sweet.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> What you guys think of this RAM? I found it on eBay, $20 a stick, wonder if it would work?
> 
> Samsung M312L5128AU1, sometimes ' M312L5128AU1-CCC '. Im curious, but not dropping $40 for 2, or $80 for 4, for an experiment.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/1x-4GB-184pin-PC3200-Reg-ECC-DDR-Server-Memory-Samsung-Orig-M312L5128AU1-CCC-/131068076509?pt=US_Memory_RAM_&hash=item1e844421dd
> 
> Datasheet:
> 
> http://www.datasheets360.com/part/detail/m312l5128au1-ccc/-3654527100525000766/


O_O

also i though PC3200 was DDR400?

EDIT: oh seafs posted unbuffered PC2700 4gbs.

EDIT: i wonder if the modules on the PC3200 buffered could be removed and installed on the unbuffered with the SPD data flashed?


----------



## SwishaMane

Can we get pics of those crazy dimms seaFs?


----------



## seaFs

Downside of the DIMMs. This looks impressive, like scy scrapers on a PCB.


Here one can see the heat spreader. It's not just a protection of the ICs unlike on the OC-DIMMs of Corsair, OCZ, GEIL etc., these metal platings really increase the contact surface to the air. That's why the don't fit in normal desktop baords. You need good space and presumably good airflow to keep the DIMMs cool in a server rack.


Notice the shivering. The BGA chips are not covered in plastic but are naked and this way can be stacked.



Removing the heat spreader wasn't really difficult. I pulled off the metal clamp with little force and bent the blue metal outwards. It's just aluminium, so it's pretty easy. The thermal glue sticks to the heat spreader, only some residues were left on the register chip and the SPD, almost nothing on the BGAs. Unfortunately I wasn't able to read the name of the SPD chip.

The DIMMs are half the height of a normal DIMM and don't feel much heavier than 2GB modules. They look tiny in the motherboard, though.

@cdoublejj: Nope, the ones I posted are registered modules. But the use Samsung UCB3, not UCCC, so they might not that good overclockers. I didn't find any overclocking records about this RAM IC.

@Swisha: There is a differnece between SPD and real overclocking potential. PC2700 CL2.5 is a standard speed, same as PC3200 CL3 and PC2100 CL2.


----------



## SwishaMane

Wow, those are crazy!

IDK man, PC2700 is DDR333, right? Thats 166Mhz. Most of our DDR400 only OCs max at like +40 - 50Mhz, so +50 on 166 is 216. If you can expect that MAX (in my ind anyway), then thats about all you're going to get from them, slightly better than DDR400 speed. That doesn't offend me at all considering the 16GB capacity. I mean right now, my 8GB is at 200mhz dead on, 3ghz CPU.

Yeah, my read / write isn't as fast as my Corsair Platinums which were 245Mhz, BUT, Ive also got 4x the capacity, tighter timings, AND the performance hit (less than 5%) is completely un-noticable for my everyday use. Do i want PC2700 dimms tho, NOOOOO! BUT, if that's how we get 16GB, and can get them to DDR400+ speed decently, why not?

I've got 3x 1GB PC2100 (133Mhz) ECC dimms left. One was sacrificed for the flashable SPD swap.


----------



## cdoublejj

i would just focus on 400mhz. with 4gb of ram AND overclocking full 400mhz wasn't likely until this awesome server ram showed up.


----------



## gasparspeed

Hey guys, i have a question about my Socket 939 system. I actually got 2 HDDs with a total capacity of 660 GB, and i need more capacity, actually a lot more. My board is a ASRock 939NF4G-SATA2 and only has SATA 2 connectors. If i buy a 2TB Seagate Barracuda that is SATA 3, and I use it to replace my 2 HDDs, will it work correctly on the system?
All my system specs on my sig.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Hey guys, i have a question about my Socket 939 system. I actually got 2 HDDs with a total capacity of 660 GB, and i need more capacity, actually a lot more. My board is a ASRock 939NF4G-SATA2 and only has SATA 2 connectors. If i buy a 2TB Seagate Barracuda that is SATA 3, and I use it to replace my 2 HDDs, will it work correctly on the system?
> All my system specs on my sig.


Well, we're running SATA III SSDs on our systems now, so the backwards compatibility is there. SATA II is plenty enough to saturate the full read / write capabilities of the 2TB disk without losing performance. I don't see any reason it wouldn't work. Especially if you're running a new OS, Win7 64-bit or newer.

Go for it.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Well, we're running SATA III SSDs on our systems now, so the backwards compatibility is there. SATA II is plenty enough to saturate the full read / write capabilities of the 2TB disk without losing performance. I don't see any reason it wouldn't work. Especially if you're running a new OS, Win7 64-bit or newer.
> 
> Go for it.


Thanks for the Help!
I will go for that HDD and maybe a 512 GB SSD


----------



## SwishaMane

You're SSD's performance will be hindered, BUT, it won't be so bad. It'll be barely noticeable real-world. I have a 120GB Crucial M4, and it feels just as responsive as when it was new and on my AM3+ sabertooth board.

I think seaFs is running a M4 too, we have same board and RAM, and familiar CPUs, and both are fast as light it seems. Mine is failing, and still fast and responsive... lol


----------



## seaFs

The problem is not the interface, but the BIOS. There are reports about nForce4 boards running 2TB HDD (or better: RAIDs) with full capacity. I remember those were ASUS boards. The barrier should be at around 2.2TB, as this is the maximum addressable range for 32bit LBA with 512 byte sector size. For windows XP this is the maximum capacity. There is no workaround to boot from a HDD>2GB into Windows XP.
Since you are using Windows 7, there shouldn't be a problem from the software side. I presume that Win7 will use GPT instead of MBR to format the drive. No worries here.

The real problem is: Does the BIOS of the 939NF4G-SATA2 will recognize the full capacity. I don't know. Chances are good, ASRock boards were not good overclockers back in the days, but they were reliable and had good support for everything you could imagine. If you really , REALLY need such a big hard disk in an old system and it doesn't work, go for an SATA add-in card, preferably PCI-Express (not PCI, this will slow down the whole system when heavy disk access is required). Make sure the SATA controller card is able to boot, otherwise you need an extra HDD connected to the mainbaord for the operating system.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> The problem is not the interface, but the BIOS. There are reports about nForce4 boards running 2TB HDD (or better: RAIDs) with full capacity. I remember those were ASUS boards. The barrier should be at around 2.2TB, as this is the maximum addressable range for 32bit LBA with 512 byte sector size. For windows XP this is the maximum capacity. There is no workaround to boot from a HDD>2GB into Windows XP.
> Since you are using Windows 7, there shouldn't be a problem from the software side. I presume that Win7 will use GPT instead of MBR to format the drive. No worries here.
> 
> The real problem is: Does the BIOS of the 939NF4G-SATA2 will recognize the full capacity. I don't know. Chances are good, ASRock boards were not good overclockers back in the days, but they were reliable and had good support for everything you could imagine. If you really , REALLY need such a big hard disk in an old system and it doesn't work, go for an SATA add-in card, preferably PCI-Express (not PCI, this will slow down the whole system when heavy disk access is required). Make sure the SATA controller card is able to boot, otherwise you need an extra HDD connected to the mainbaord for the operating system.


OK, the BIOS of the ASRock is so good actually, you can change almost everything CPU Multiplier, FSB, Voltage, etc... same for the RAM. This weekend i will buy the HDD and see if it works.
I need that HDD because actually i don't use that PC, but my father does and he has like 1TB of music and stuff on a external HDD (and 500 GB more on the 939's HDDs) and he is pretty pissed off because the low capacity of the HDDs so i will put in the 2TB HDD.
Oh, and for the overclock abilities of the board, it did 2.5 Ghz on a X2 4200+ without changing any Voltages (not even changed my RAM settings, and i have to say my RAM settings suck, everything on Auto, it even down-clocks my RAM to DDR333) and it handled Metro 2033 for 4 hours







, so i guess it's not a very bad Motherboard.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ibiza*
> 
> I was able to hit a suicide run of 3.27GHz on my 165....but that was with Clockgen. It never crashed on me, but it failed Orthos. I booted at 3.1GHz through BIOS, 2x HT Link, 100Mhz divider, 1.65v.....and then just upped it from Clockgen from there. It was fun.


Wow, that 165 is still alive or it's dead? And what Mobo did you use?


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Thanks for the Help!
> I will go for that HDD and maybe a 512 GB SSD


just make sure to buy a new one, 939 doesn't have AHCI so garbage collection and stuff doesn't work however newer SSDs can usually take the extra because and if it has a 3 year warranty if it does die you'll get a new one. Also it will STILL be faster than a hard drive.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> just make sure to buy a new one, 939 doesn't have AHCI so garbage collection and stuff doesn't work however newer SSDs can usually take the extra because and if it has a 3 year warranty if it does die you'll get a new one. Also it will STILL be faster than a hard drive.


A little misinformation here. Garbage collection and trim are controlled by the SSD firmware and the OS you're using. It has nothing to do with what platform it's on.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> A little misinformation here. Garbage collection and trim are controlled by the SSD firmware and the OS you're using. It has nothing to do with what platform it's on.


Tru dat son. We need to do SSD s939 comparisons and see how things are running. I don't recall my results with my M4 on the s939. Especially since getting the new mobo. Imma has to do that.


----------



## seaFs

Garbage Collection seems to work, but Trim is an SATA2 command that must be supported by the OS, the disk and the controller. nForce4 chipsets don't support the full SATA2 standard, but instead are SATA1 ports widened to 3GBit/s and added NCQ functionality. They don't support AHCI, even nForce7 does not support AHCI. Trim can't be patched through to the disk, because the controller does not know this command.
Anyways, plug in the SSD and have fun with a totally new 939 experience. Make sure to leave 15-20% empty space on the SSD for overprovisioning.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Garbage Collection seems to work, but Trim is an SATA2 command that must be supported by the OS, the disk and the controller. nForce4 chipsets don't support the full SATA2 standard, but instead are SATA1 ports widened to 3GBit/s and added NCQ functionality. They don't support AHCI, even nForce7 does not support AHCI. Trim can't be patched through to the disk, because the controller does not know this command.
> Anyways, plug in the SSD and have fun with a totally new 939 experience. Make sure to leave 15-20% empty space on the SSD for overprovisioning.


AHCI can be mimicked through Nv Raid.
AHCI drivers are available for both 32 and 64 bit OS's including XP.
There are programs that will run trim even on XP.
I have all of this running on pretty much any platform including 939.
You can doubt if you want to but I'm running it right now.
Think outside the box.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> A little misinformation here. Garbage collection and trim are controlled by the SSD firmware and the OS you're using. It has nothing to do with what platform it's on.


AFAIK AHCI is something you really should have. orit was when SSDs were becoming a thing.
this explains IDE SSDs and yeah there is software for xp.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> AFAIK AHCI is something you really should have. orit was when SSDs were becoming a thing.
> this explains IDE SSDs and yeah there is software for xp.


I don't disagree with you. I'm just saying that if you don't have the option there are ways around it.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> I don't disagree with you. I'm just saying that if you don't have the option there are ways around it.


Nor I, very good bits of info to know!


----------



## SwishaMane

We need to quit attacking each other (lol) and get back to important business. Is there a s939 OC contest this year or what!?









In all seriousness tho, what is our ext step in the evolution of s939? Is it true 939 is limited to as far Win7 can reach, due to supported type of code on the CPU? And Win8+ will use languages 939 CPUs can't handle?


----------



## seaFs

Here is the painful way to bypass the "CompareExchange128" error you get when installing Win8.1 64bit on socket 939.
http://forums.mydigitallife.info/threads/37517-Q-Win-8-bypass-PAE-NX-SSE2-check/page12?p=771750&viewfull=1#post771750
You also need a Windows 7 (yes, seven) install disk to do this and some tools to disable the Windows 8.1 CPU feature checking. It does not make Win8.1 use less CPU instructions, so in case an application calls for the CompareExchange128 operation, there will be a BSOD (and probably some other instruction,s too).
I don't think it is worth the pain for everyday use, but would be nice for some fun benchmarking, especially when using Radeon HD7000 and Radeon R200 series cards with DX11.x/12 *trollollooo*
Or just use Win7 and AMD Mantle instead


----------



## cdoublejj

does 939 not have NX? win 7 and linux are always options.

I was thinking modern mid range video card (like 550/640/650/740/750)
SSD
AIO
8GB ram
OC
Profit?

All that 8 requires that doesn't but, makes it compatible on most old hard ware is execute bit disable aka NX at lot of hardware has it but, doesn't support it. you have to do the NX bypass to install 8 and that means manually patching the kernel every time yo do windows update.


----------



## SwishaMane

Thats, seemingly, a lot of hassle for Win8 to work. Ive never even used Win8 tho, so nto worried. Ugh, looks like we've reached the limits. By 2020, our s939s will be completely un-useable. In the same way we've seen PCs limited to 32-bit are practically worthless when limited to WinXP, basically.


----------



## seaFs

It's not about NX-bit with 939. You "just" have to patch the kernel for ComapreExchange128 bypass.

All the other stuff (NX/XD-bit, HT enable) is for even older stuff like Pentium 4 (Northwood). This is not just Athlon64 struggling with it.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> It's not about NX-bit with 939. You "just" have to patch the kernel for ComapreExchange128 bypass.
> 
> All the other stuff (NX/XD-bit, HT enable) is for even older stuff like Pentium 4 (Northwood). This is not just Athlon64 struggling with it.


can you elaborate on that?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Thats, seemingly, a lot of hassle for Win8 to work. Ive never even used Win8 tho, so nto worried. Ugh, looks like we've reached the limits. By 2020, our s939s will be completely un-useable. In the same way we've seen PCs limited to 32-bit are practically worthless when limited to WinXP, basically.


I have had ZERO issue running win 7 on 32 bit machines. even pentium 4 with 1gb, runs well enough for basic use. also by then there is chance other OSes like Linux and OSX will be more popular and for that matter you could try OSX-x86.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> can you elaborate on that?
> I have had ZERO issue running win 7 on 32 bit machines. even pentium 4 with 1gb, runs well enough for basic use. also by then there is chance other OSes like Linux and OSX will be more popular and for that matter you could try OSX-x86.


32bit Win7 of course. But Win8 didnt have a 32 bit correct? And who would want that? 3GB RAM? BOO. lol


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> 32bit Win7 of course. But Win8 didnt have a 32 bit correct? And who would want that? 3GB RAM? BOO. lol


win 8 DOES have 32 bit, any body who i had spare machine laying around that has 1gb of ram, it's use for hard drive cloning and occasional googling.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> win 8 DOES have 32 bit, any body who i had spare machine laying around that has 1gb of ram, it's use for hard drive cloning and occasional googling.


WOW, did not know. Never used Win8. Still tho, if our CPUs don't have the instructions, how do we use it? LOL, I see no reason to patch something before EVERY update you have to do. Especially with the frequency of updates that roll out. Jeez, that would be atrocious after a few days.

I'm worried about the evolution of meh beloved AMD from 2005.







10 years later and STILL ROCKIN!


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> WOW, did not know. Never used Win8. Still tho, if our CPUs don't have the instructions, how do we use it? LOL, I see no reason to patch something before EVERY update you have to do. Especially with the frequency of updates that roll out. Jeez, that would be atrocious after a few days.
> 
> I'm worried about the evolution of meh beloved AMD from 2005.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 10 years later and STILL ROCKIN!


windows XP does still get new updates with the require registry tweak. win 7 will stil lbe fairly standard and Linux is growing and more and more triple A titles are coming to linux.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Is there a s939 OC contest this year or what!?


My thoughts as well on this.


----------



## gasparspeed

Hey guys, yesterday i started raging with my 939. It just gives me randoms BSODs and I really don't know why. I was wondering if you could help me.
Recently I changed the PSU (could be it, i'm not sure, tomorrow i will switch to the old one) and also installed my new FX-60 the same day. Since then BSODs are REALLY COMMON. 2 Mins ago i got a BSOD, here is the Windows report thingy, i'm using "Safe Mode" to write this to try to prevent another BSOD (please ignore the language, this is actually my dad's work PC and he is Spanish).


All the BSODs have these titles: "Memory_Magnament" or "Page_Found_in_Nonpage_Area" (or something like this)
I can't take pics of the BSOD itself because it disappears after 2 or 3 secs.

Can anyone help me?
All PC Parts on my signature.


----------



## seaFs

"Memory Management" or "pages" refer to RAM data corruption. This is either damaged RAM, too high overclock/less DIMM voltage, a damageed motherboard or too much stress for the memory controller inside the CPU.
If everything is set to default clocks and voltages, try running memtest.
If errors occur, replace with different RAM.
If still errors occur, try another CPU.
If that didn't help, try another mainboard.

In case you overclocked, try to stabilize your memory by decreasing memory clocks, incresing DIMM voltage or set some less tight timings.

Anyway, post your hardware specs: CPU, mainboard, type and amount of RAM, GPU, add-in cards


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Hey guys, yesterday i started raging with my 939. It just gives me randoms BSODs and I really don't know why. I was wondering if you could help me.
> Recently I changed the PSU (could be it, i'm not sure, tomorrow i will switch to the old one) and also installed my new FX-60 the same day. Since then BSODs are REALLY COMMON. 2 Mins ago i got a BSOD, here is the Windows report thingy, i'm using "Safe Mode" to write this to try to prevent another BSOD (please ignore the language, this is actually my dad's work PC and he is Spanish).
> 
> 
> All the BSODs have these titles: "Memory_Magnament" or "Page_Found_in_Nonpage_Area" (or something like this)
> I can't take pics of the BSOD itself because it disappears after 2 or 3 secs.
> 
> Can anyone help me?
> All PC Parts on my signature.


It is possible It's PS related but uncommon. try loosening your Mem timings and run a memtest. If that fails to produce an error then try a system restore if you can. Corrupt file will drive you batty.


----------



## gasparspeed

I have to say that my Mobo is faulty. Buy not on the RAM Slots but on PCI slots. Both of them aren't working correctly (thats why i don't use anymore my SoundBlaster). I remember that once, my father take the PC to a PC Shop and he came with one RAM module on his hand and told me that the Guy at the PC Shop told him that one RAM module was Faulty. I'm actual y using that module, the thing is that i don't remember which one is. Also, i don't have any OC. Actually I'm running on DDR-333 on RAM with probably the worst timings ever seen... And, one question, i've NEVER done a memtest, so, how do you do a mem test?


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Hey guys, yesterday i started raging with my 939. It just gives me randoms BSODs and I really don't know why. I was wondering if you could help me.
> Recently I changed the PSU (could be it, i'm not sure, tomorrow i will switch to the old one) and also installed my new FX-60 the same day. Since then BSODs are REALLY COMMON. 2 Mins ago i got a BSOD, here is the Windows report thingy, i'm using "Safe Mode" to write this to try to prevent another BSOD (please ignore the language, this is actually my dad's work PC and he is Spanish).
> 
> 
> All the BSODs have these titles: "Memory_Magnament" or "Page_Found_in_Nonpage_Area" (or something like this)
> I can't take pics of the BSOD itself because it disappears after 2 or 3 secs.
> 
> Can anyone help me?
> All PC Parts on my signature.


did you change out fora new/newer good working PSU? i know older ones the caps go bad.

BE WARNED!!!! Memtest can lie/be wrong!!!! I have seen bad ram pass and good ram fail!!!!


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> did you change out fora new/newer good working PSU? i know older ones the caps go bad.
> 
> BE WARNED!!!! Memtest can lie/be wrong!!!! I have seen bad ram pass and good ram fail!!!!


I just put in my old OEM 300W (pretty crappy) PSU and now i am not getting any BSOD so i think it's solved.
Still didn't run Memtest cuz i don't know how to do it


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> I just put in my old OEM 300W (pretty crappy) PSU and now i am not getting any BSOD so i think it's solved.
> Still didn't run Memtest cuz i don't know how to do it


http://lmgtfy.com/?q=how+to+run+memtest+on+Windows+7+Ultimate+64-bits


----------



## SwishaMane

If its not the PSU, I'd say its the FX-60 As crappy as that would be, I've owned two, and they were the two worse 939 chips Ive ever run. They BSOD all the time, and don't OC worth a damn for being "unlocked." Woo hoo, an unlocked chip that does 300mhz more than stock. Worthless. Try new PSU with an old CPU, and run everything stock.

Just burn a MemTest bootable CD.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> If its not the PSU, I'd say its the FX-60 As crappy as that would be, I've owned two, and they were the two worse 939 chips Ive ever run. They BSOD all the time, and don't OC worth a damn for being "unlocked." Woo hoo, an unlocked chip that does 300mhz more than stock. Worthless. Try new PSU with an old CPU, and run everything stock.
> 
> Just burn a MemTest bootable CD.


Well, the old PSU is actually doing it's job. No more BSODs, so i guess it was the PSU. But i will run a Memtest just to be sure the RAM isn't bad. And the only reason i did buy the FX-60 was cuz I can play Metro 2033 at 30 FPS and Battlefield 3 at a ~ 20 FPS







. My 939 is still a "gaming" machine hehe. It can be a very bad overclocker but my FX-60 was selled at 50$ with a Sychte Ninja-PLUS heatsink included so i could not resist to buy it


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Well, the old PSU is actually doing it's job. No more BSODs, so i guess it was the PSU. But i will run a Memtest just to be sure the RAM isn't bad. And the only reason i did buy the FX-60 was cuz I can play Metro 2033 at 30 FPS and Battlefield 3 at a ~ 20 FPS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . My 939 is still a "gaming" machine hehe. It can be a very bad overclocker but my FX-60 was selled at 50$ with a Sychte Ninja-PLUS heatsink included so i could not resist to buy it


Not bad considering 3 years ago they were $250+ chips. IDK why. Somehow I got suckered into 2 over time. DID. NOT. LIKE. My opty 185 is LIGHTYEARS ahead of what I could do with an FX-60...


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Not bad considering 3 years ago they were $250+ chips. IDK why. Somehow I got suckered into 2 over time. DID. NOT. LIKE. My opty 185 is LIGHTYEARS ahead of what I could do with an FX-60...


I would love to overclock (or at least try to overclock) my X2 4200+ (wich did 2.5 with stock voltage, but then Win XP wanted to re-activate because "hardware changed", since then i don't OC on my board) or my FX-60 but my motherboard wants to die everytime i touch something in the BIOS (Last time it won't recognize 3 of my 4 sticks of RAM







) I'm thinking about buying an A8N-SLI Premium because my board actually is half-dead, the PCI slots are dead, that's why I don't use my SoundBlaster, because if I put in the card, it BSODs instantly.
Also, the FX-60s ARE STILL SOLD FOR 250$+







!
Link


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> I would love to overclock (or at least try to overclock) my X2 4200+ (wich did 2.5 with stock voltage, but then Win XP wanted to re-activate because "hardware changed", since then i don't OC on my board) or my FX-60 but my motherboard wants to die everytime i touch something in the BIOS (Last time it won't recognize 3 of my 4 sticks of RAM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) I'm thinking about buying an A8N-SLI Premium because my board actually is half-dead, the PCI slots are dead, that's why I don't use my SoundBlaster, because if I put in the card, it BSODs instantly.
> Also, the FX-60s ARE STILL SOLD FOR 250$+
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> Link


They aren't worth even $100 for unlocked. Both I had topped 2.9ghz, and even then weren't stable. A new board is in your interest. If your mobo is half dead, whats the point in even worrying. Just get a DFI or ASUS higher end and be happy. If you get the ASUS, you could get 8GB RAM like a few of us here. I use my s939 as a HTPC, so I need it. And it handles exceptionally well. Even with stock 200Mhz RAM freq.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> They aren't worth even $100 for unlocked. Both I had topped 2.9ghz, and even then weren't stable. A new board is in your interest. If your mobo is half dead, whats the point in even worrying. Just get a DFI or ASUS higher end and be happy. If you get the ASUS, you could get 8GB RAM like a few of us here. I use my s939 as a HTPC, so I need it. And it handles exceptionally well. Even with stock 200Mhz RAM freq.


Yeah, i've saw a A8N-SLI Premium that comes with a 3700+ (may use it to have some fun), a Thermaltake Blue Orb heatsink and a 40 GB HDD with Win 7 Ultimate installed. Only for 50€ (i've saw those at 80€ + shipping), looks very good but actually i don't have 50€ to spend them in the board, maybe at the end of the month i buy it.. should I go for it? Looks a pretty good deal...


----------



## SwishaMane

Im sure you could find a better deal. The HDD and CPU cooler are gimics. Those blue orb coolers are bad, and the hdd is IDE???

Just be patient.


----------



## BlackOmega

Hey you all been a long time since I've posted here.
In regards to motherboards, I, personally, haven't had good luck with Asus boards. They're not very stable when overclocking. So far every Asus mobo I've used, regardless of socket, has crapped out and needed to be RMA'd. Note that I used an A8N-32SLI deluxe.
The best boards I've found for overclocking on the 939 socket are DFI boards. Even the lowest end DFI overclocked better than the best Asus board. At that was my experience.
Also, it's very important to use a good power supply. You'd be amazed at how much your PSU affects your overclock.
Good luck.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*
> 
> Hey you all been a long time since I've posted here.
> In regards to motherboards, I, personally, haven't had good luck with Asus boards. They're not very stable when overclocking. So far every Asus mobo I've used, regardless of socket, has crapped out and needed to be RMA'd. Note that I used an A8N-32SLI deluxe.
> The best boards I've found for overclocking on the 939 socket are DFI boards. Even the lowest end DFI overclocked better than the best Asus board. At that was my experience.


I'll vouch for that. I sold all my Asus 939 boards in favor of the DFI's. There is no comparison IMO.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackOmega*
> 
> Hey you all been a long time since I've posted here.
> In regards to motherboards, I, personally, haven't had good luck with Asus boards. They're not very stable when overclocking. So far every Asus mobo I've used, regardless of socket, has crapped out and needed to be RMA'd. Note that I used an A8N-32SLI deluxe.
> The best boards I've found for overclocking on the 939 socket are DFI boards. Even the lowest end DFI overclocked better than the best Asus board. At that was my experience.
> Also, it's very important to use a good power supply. You'd be amazed at how much your PSU affects your overclock.
> Good luck.


----------



## SwishaMane

No doubt that DFI boards are where it's at, but you guys cant get 8GB RAM on them. I only went with ASUS for the extra memory. AND, it actually OC's better than the DFI I had. Of course, it wasn't a LANParty board, but w/e.

lol


----------



## toughacton

The Asus boards can clock high. You just have to play with WAY more individual settings to get it to work. At least that's the way my A8R32-mvp works. I can clock a 165 up to 3.1 no problems with 4 sticks of RAM







Its just hell getting it set up the first time. You literally have to change one setting at a time, and any bclk adjustment higher than increments of 5 causes a no post. (so for a blck of 335 say for a opty 165 I would need to restart a minimum of 27 times and a few more for the RAM/voltage/HT settings) Needless to say, once I have my overclock set on the thing it stays that way. Certainly not a board I would want to swap chips on a lot.


----------



## SwishaMane

You have to restart in between every setting adjustment? Da fuhq? LOL, that board would be scrapped for capacitors...


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> The Asus boards can clock high. You just have to play with WAY more individual settings to get it to work. At least that's the way my A8R32-mvp works. I can clock a 165 up to 3.1 no problems with 4 sticks of RAM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its just hell getting it set up the first time. You literally have to change one setting at a time, and any bclk adjustment higher than increments of 5 causes a no post. (so for a blck of 335 say for a opty 165 I would need to restart a minimum of 27 times and a few more for the RAM/voltage/HT settings) Needless to say, once I have my overclock set on the thing it stays that way. Certainly not a board I would want to swap chips on a lot.


maybe i can come here when i go to clock my 939 system back up again after swapped out ofr the ECC.

also another confirmation with ECC ram (though only 512mb)

http://www.vogons.org/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=40567&p=385081#p384790


----------



## SwishaMane

I got an MSI socket A board Im about to fix up. Needs 6 caps replaced, and already got them. Just have to do the work. Came with a sempron chip, I think is 2.4ghz, but most likely at least 2.0+.

What should i do with it? On-board video too, makes it easy to test. Two dimm slots. Might try my pc2100 ECC 1GB dimms, ha ha


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> I got an MSI socket A board Im about to fix up. Needs 6 caps replaced, and already got them. Just have to do the work. Came with a sempron chip, I think is 2.4ghz, but most likely at least 2.0+.
> 
> What should i do with it? On-board video too, makes it easy to test. Two dimm slots. Might try my pc2100 ECC 1GB dimms, ha ha


K7N delta ISLR?


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> K7N delta ISLR?


K7N sounds familiar. I dont have it where Im at right now, so i cant be sure. Its Socket A, red, only two dimm slots. IGP, two SATA connectors (which is rare for such an old board I guess), AGP 8x.

I tried a google search but couldnt find it. Its a low level board I'm sure. Ive got two matching Athlon MP chips, 1.73ghz each, if the sempy doesn't work out.


----------



## Kryton

WOO-HOO!!!!









You guys can add this one to the list.
http://valid.canardpc.com/luf97u

I believe it can go even further if I really push it.









Also you guys can update this entry too!
http://valid.canardpc.com/yvbkpj

Both done on water.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> WOO-HOO!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You guys can add this one to the list.
> http://valid.canardpc.com/luf97u
> 
> I believe it can go even further if I really push it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also you guys can update this entry too!
> http://valid.canardpc.com/yvbkpj
> 
> Both done on water.


----------



## zila

Damn son............I said DAMN SON! Yaaaahoooooo.


----------



## pez

Crazy to see this thread still up and alive. Weird to think of the journey of mine that started here







.


----------



## Hueristic

Gonna cross post this for you guys.

I'm Just going to leave this here for those of you that know how to use it.

WIN7 Bare essentials with networking Brought to you bye Hueristic.





***Warning... Never EVER disable RPC (or dcom it is a RPC dependency: shouldn't be but is!)***


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> Gonna cross post this for you guys.
> 
> I'm Just going to leave this here for those of you that know how to use it.
> 
> WIN7 Bare essentials with networking Brought to you bye Hueristic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ***Warning... Never EVER disable RPC (or dcom it is a RPC dependency: shouldn't be but is!)***


Thank you.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Thank you.


NP.


----------



## Kryton

Actually you can disable those two processes BUT you will lose networking and they _must be set in options not to restart the PC_ or else. Also know there are some programs/processes that are dependent on these but my example is for extreme OC'ing with certain benchies only.

I know it works in XP and can't recall if Win 7 flips out over it or not - I'll have to test that and see.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> Actually you can disable those two processes BUT you will lose networking and they _must be set in options not to restart the PC_ or else. Also know there are some programs/processes that are dependent on these but my example is for extreme OC'ing with certain benchies only.
> 
> I know it works in XP and can't recall if Win 7 flips out over it or not - I'll have to test that and see.


Dcom in xp but not Win7. It is still worthless and only a security risk but we have to play with the card we're dealt. Tying Dcom to RPC is just another M$ slight of hand. Disable RPC and you can watch bkue screens all day. then you can repair that through the recovery console if you enjoy that kind of pain.


----------



## Kryton

Gotcha.









I'm used to seeing BSOD's all over the place, it's like part of the scenery around here.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> Gotcha.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm used to seeing BSOD's all over the place, it's like part of the scenery around here.


I hear yah! Here's my favorite.


----------



## Kryton

Thats it!









Now this thing has just gone over the edge with this.... http://valid.canardpc.com/ewhq0m


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> Thats it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now this thing has just gone over the edge with this.... http://valid.canardpc.com/ewhq0m


This is a beautiful thing. I wish I didn't have a million things todo and my stuff wasn't all buried. I don't think I can even remember how to strangle these babies anymore!


----------



## nategr8ns

Joe was definitely one of the core players here when I got my 939 rig. Him, Pio,
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> Thats it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now this thing has just gone over the edge with this.... http://valid.canardpc.com/ewhq0m


Well bawls, that's awesome!


----------



## pioneerisloud

I heard my name..........


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> I heard my name..........


----------



## pez

Oh it's like the old gang is getting back together







. We need to 0 age Blitz in here, too







.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Oh it's like the old gang is getting back together
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . We need to 0 age Blitz in here, too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


:rofl: What happened to all the old emoticons?









What happened to Blitz? Become a Lawyer and get married?


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :rofl: What happened to all the old emoticons?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What happened to Blitz? Become a Lawyer and get married?


He's been on Intel for a few systems now







. He's even a forum mod now, I believe.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :rofl: What happened to all the old emoticons?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What happened to Blitz? Become a Lawyer and get married?
> 
> 
> 
> He's been on Intel for a few systems now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . He's even a forum mod now, I believe.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure what platform Blitzy-poo is on. But I haven't heard from him in like 2 years.









I've been on Intel too myself off and on since Sandy Bridge. Socket modded some 775 boards to take 771 Xeons, clocked the snot out of those. Water cooling. Tri-fire with 7950's. Still have a Socket 939 rig sitting around collecting dust. Has a good clocking Toledo, and I have some VERY VERY rare DDR from the looks of it. Just can't seem to get my stupid motherboard to work.

I also have played with Phenom II's, Athlon II's, and now FM2+. My sig rig might not change very often (its my rock solid never leaving me machine). But I actually do have a TON of stuff come through my house that I play with.







I just don't post much anymore.


----------



## pez

My Phenom II rig is going to be a temp server and eventually a build for my GF. I actually found out I never got rid of my 940 BE. So now I have two chips (940 BE and 1090 BE) sitting idly by. I still have a soft spot for AMD as it was how I was introduced into PCs







.


----------



## blooder11181

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> My Phenom II rig is going to be a temp server and eventually a build for my GF. I actually found out I never got rid of my 940 BE. So now I have two chips (940 BE and 1090 BE) sitting idly by. I still have a soft spot for AMD as it was how I was introduced into PCs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


those are socket am2 (940) not 939


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blooder11181*
> 
> those are socket am2 (940) not 939


Yes, I know. While that is the topic of the thread, it wasn't the topic of the small OT conversation we were having. My old 939 info is in the OP.


----------



## cdoublejj

Just acquired another 939 rig, it's BTX and store bought but, it's in immaculate condition. gonna post specs later and also see if I can find an unlocked or modded bios.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> Just acquired another 939 rig, it's BTX and store bought but, it's in immaculate condition. gonna post specs later and also see if I can find an unlocked or modded bios.


UH OH!

Pics or it didn't happen. You know the rulez!


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> UH OH!
> 
> Pics or it didn't happen. You know the rulez!


best i can do atm,

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883113034R

http://www.cnet.com/products/gateway-gt5082-media-center-athlon-64-x2-2-ghz-2-gb-ram-250-gb-hdd/

spitting image except for my finger prints from carrying it.


----------



## cdoublejj

i need an unlocked bios for a c51g+mcp51


----------



## cdoublejj

any one grade GPUs or get SSDs with the black friday deals?

http://www.gamersnexus.net/sales/1710-visiontek-old-amd-cards-for-1-dollar


----------



## Mr.Scott

Thanks for that link.


----------



## nategr8ns

Hmmm... My media center could use a dedicated GPU...


----------



## Maximization

HI GUYS, I HAVE A QUESTION

I have an A8n SLI deluxe motherboard i am using more latley. I use it about 3 times a week. I am checking what i can do to boost performance. When i took it out of mothballs, it would not start, it was due to a bad power supply which i replaced with a 500 watt unit. I am currently running an opteron 185 with 4GB of DDR1 memory and a 5870 video card. . But is there an SLI solution to really get more perforamcne out of this system? Being both my pci-e slots are 1.0a version is it even possable???

Thanks


----------



## mattliston

You may not see a boost in performance if you go sli/crossfire (nvidia/ati-amd)

It is a fairly slow dual core, though it sure smoked dual core pentiums in its day!

I would focus more on doing software tweaks in the operating system to yank some more juice out of it.

That 5870 should be better then my 5770, and mine plays the skyrim high res packs just fine on 1440x900 resolution.

An SSD would cut out storage delays and allow quite a bit more response. a good 128gb is cheap nowadays, you can even grab 2 and put them into RAID for a HUGE performance boost as far as loading things.


----------



## pez

I think the HD4870 was the last card I used on my 939 board, though it might be the 9800GT in SLI. If you could find a similar, modern card (maybe the 660Ti?) to SLI, you might get some decent performance. The SSD recommendation is a good one, but you'll have to realize you won't be getting SATA III speeds. It'll still be better than a standard HDD, however. Your biggest bottleneck will be the CPU depending on the resolution. Even with Intel, the CPU can be a bottleneck these days.


----------



## mattliston

wont be getting sata III speeds? I dont think that is much of an issue. the first gen SATA can hit 150MB/s and that is still peppy. Remember, the biggest difference is lack of delay, not actual bandwidth. Maintaining consistent bandwidth over 100MB/s is gonna feel great if coming from a mechanical drive.

I have SATA6 on my board I think, and I didnt notice any performance difference with my old Intel SSD from the ASUS M2N-SLI Deluxe I was running with my quad phenom. Maybe an extra 10MB/s going off the HDtune benchmark. Skyrim loads as fast as its allowed, I dont even have a load screen in Guild Wars, and my internet browsing is pretty much stutter free entirely since going to SSD those few years ago.

Nowadays, you can get a good terabyte harddrive under $70 and short-stroked to 200-300GB (leaving rest unallocated of course) and maintain over 100MB/s. Of course, you still have that access delay.

Or a final solution is to grab a cheap RAID card to toss on the motherboard, and run two of the cheapest current-gen SSDs of 128gigs or more each, and have possibly over 500MB/s ability.


----------



## seaFs

1.) No nVidia cards with dual cores! Stick with the ATi/AMD cards, because there is no performance drop when unsing the AMD drivers with dual cores. nVidia drivers rely on at least four processor threads / physical cores to perform well. The drop is somewhere around 30% in a CPU limited scenario compared to AMD drivers.

2.) Get an SSD. A Crucial M4 is rock solid with the nForce4 chipset. Don't care abut bandwidth, it's the access time that makes the system feel smoother and more responsive.,

3.) Buy 2x2GB or 4x2GB registered DDR400 and run this with Command Rate 1T. Maybe overclock it a bit. This is far better than 4x1GB at 2T.

Only do this if you want to play with the hardware a bit. Does this make sense? No, but it's fun


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattliston*
> 
> wont be getting sata III speeds? I dont think that is much of an issue. the first gen SATA can hit 150MB/s and that is still peppy. Remember, the biggest difference is lack of delay, not actual bandwidth. Maintaining consistent bandwidth over 100MB/s is gonna feel great if coming from a mechanical drive.
> 
> I have SATA6 on my board I think, and I didnt notice any performance difference with my old Intel SSD from the ASUS M2N-SLI Deluxe I was running with my quad phenom. Maybe an extra 10MB/s going off the HDtune benchmark. Skyrim loads as fast as its allowed, I dont even have a load screen in Guild Wars, and my internet browsing is pretty much stutter free entirely since going to SSD those few years ago.
> 
> Nowadays, you can get a good terabyte harddrive under $70 and short-stroked to 200-300GB (leaving rest unallocated of course) and maintain over 100MB/s. Of course, you still have that access delay.
> 
> Or a final solution is to grab a cheap RAID card to toss on the motherboard, and run two of the cheapest current-gen SSDs of 128gigs or more each, and have possibly over 500MB/s ability.


Yep, that was the reason I included that second sentence. And no it won't make a difference unless you're transferring a lot of files...which probably isn't likely on a system of this age.


----------



## Maximization

Thanks for info guys i got my direction, I always used a stock cooler, so my overclocing was limited, will try doing some bios overclocking, It does have sata II on board but i had a feeling the video memory was not enough i will mess around some more with it. 1920x1200 is my resolutoion in Vista 64 ultimate, I can't go newer on OS since no support for Nvidia4 chip set and the other stuff. thanks!


----------



## mattliston

If you want a badass oem cooler, find the AM2+ phenom stock heatpipe coolers. There are a few variations of phenom coolers, the best are the ones that have the fan covering the entire top (the AM2+) You will see what I mean if you google phenom cooler review.

While the AM3 black phenom coolers are not as good as the AM2+ copolers, they should still be far better then any 939 oem coolers by a long shot.

I know your pain. When I moved from my quad AM2 setup to my current AM3 hex, the AM2 got turned into a folding rig with a stock AM2 dualcore athlon cooler, and I see 60*C nearly constantly while folding at stock 2.4GHz clock


----------



## mattliston

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> Thanks for info guys i got my direction, I always used a stock cooler, so my overclocing was limited, will try doing some bios overclocking, It does have sata II on board but i had a feeling the video memory was not enough i will mess around some more with it. 1920x1200 is my resolutoion in Vista 64 ultimate, I can't go newer on OS since no support for Nvidia4 chip set and the other stuff. thanks!


Move to win7 stat! I didnt see you had Vista on this thing.

no support? all vista drivers work with win7

right click the vista 64bit driver packs, properties>compatability

change it to the proper vista setting.

This is the only way I had drivers for my m2n-sli deluxe that is chugging away with zero errors on win 7 64bit

Or google it if you want to get more comfortable with this method.

Also, remember win7 is when Microsoft started getting its system more involved with factory drivers. I just refreshed a buddy's 6 year old laptop and win7 even found branded drivers, like nvidia go! stuff


----------



## seaFs

Win7 x64 just works well with nForce4 chipsets. No need to use extra driver packs, the standard drivers shipping with Win7 are just right. No problems with them. You'll only need drivers for onboard sound.


----------



## cdoublejj

I just picked up an HD6570. I normally prefer Nvidia the drivers for the HD4000 and HD2000 series are utter broken and last time i looked i struggled to find any working links to the old ones, every machine i have installed the latest legacy drivers (early 2013), no longer has working open cl AND has a kbdsync error and the "fix" on the amd forums does not work. at least the HD6k series isn't running the same legacy driver and i think has been EOLed by AMD yet.

my 8800GT and 8200gt are still getting new driver updates my dual core nvidia system run well but, i wouldn't know about the dual core driver thing i have no way of testing as all modern games would run better on a quad core 6 core any ways.

Nivdia has FFFFFFFFFFAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRR superior proprietary linux drivers, AMD cards are just short of broken in linux. And any ati HD2k or older you can forget about, no prop drivers at all only super performance robbing open source drivers. Nvidia is the brand choice for OSX as well but, good luck getting osx to work on a AMD (it's possible but, takes time). Linux will be a more used option if are still playing with these 939 machines after win 7 goes completely EOL. Do note Win XP is not truly EOL you can still get NEW security updates with a mod/hack.

I'm hoping the HD6570 i got is on par with the unstable/broken 8800GT it's replacing. should already be a bit better with 1gb vram and newer features.


----------



## Werne

I had a "tooth" on the CPU retention bracket break off, now my 3200+ is dead, my NB die is cracked, the PCI-E slot is broken and my PSU got fried cause the heatsink fell onto the card's 6-pin, good thing the card's still alive. The board was a SiS, the CPU couldn't even hit 2.5GHz and the PSU was garbage anyway so I can't say I feel bad about any of the stuff.









Now I've been thinking, I know plastic becomes more brittle over time, especially if exposed to a heat source. Since I got two more 939 rigs up and running and using coolers that attach to the retention bracket, I can't help but wonder just how brittle that plastic is after 10 years of use while being heated and cooled constantly, not to mention exposed to fan vibrations.

I think I'm gonna ghetto-rig a bolt-through mounting system with a crossbar to make sure I have no more "cooler fell off" hardware failures.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> Nivdia has FFFFFFFFFFAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRR superior proprietary linux drivers, AMD cards are just short of broken in linux.


As a testament to AMD Linux driver quality, my Athlon 5350 with it's integrated R3 GPU on stock gets more FPS in L4D2 using the open-source driver than my FX-8320 @4.4Ghz and a 7770 @1035/1550 get using Catalyst 14.12.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> I had a "tooth" on the CPU retention bracket break off, now my 3200+ is dead, my NB die is cracked, the PCI-E slot is broken and my PSU got fried cause the heatsink fell onto the card's 6-pin, good thing the card's still alive. The board was a SiS, the CPU couldn't even hit 2.5GHz and the PSU was garbage anyway so I can't say I feel bad about any of the stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I've been thinking, I know plastic becomes more brittle over time, especially if exposed to a heat source. Since I got two more 939 rigs up and running and using coolers that attach to the retention bracket, I can't help but wonder just how brittle that plastic is after 10 years of use while being heated and cooled constantly, not to mention exposed to fan vibrations.
> 
> I think I'm gonna ghetto-rig a bolt-through mounting system with a crossbar to make sure I have no more "cooler fell off" hardware failures.
> As a testament to AMD Linux driver quality, my Athlon 5350 with it's integrated R3 GPU on stock gets more FPS in L4D2 using the open-source driver than my FX-8320 @4.4Ghz and a 7770 @1035/1550 get using Catalyst 14.12.


Valve spent a lot of time optimizing for open gl what i mean is crap like this,


__
https://www.reddit.com/r/2q25zv/fixing_linux_amd_catalyst_drivers_to_work_with_gdm/

it's ain't all sunshine and unicrons. I tend to stick with AMD if it's gonna be an windows only machine or machine not running linux,.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> 1.) No nVidia cards with dual cores! Stick with the ATi/AMD cards, because there is no performance drop when unsing the AMD drivers with dual cores. nVidia drivers rely on at least four processor threads / physical cores to perform well. The drop is somewhere around 30% in a CPU limited scenario compared to AMD drivers.
> 
> 2.) Get an SSD. A Crucial M4 is rock solid with the nForce4 chipset. Don't care abut bandwidth, it's the access time that makes the system feel smoother and more responsive.,
> 
> 3.) Buy 2x2GB or 4x2GB registered DDR400 and run this with Command Rate 1T. Maybe overclock it a bit. This is far better than 4x1GB at 2T.
> 
> Only do this if you want to play with the hardware a bit. Does this make sense? No, but it's fun


1. My GTX 260 Core 216 runs extremely well and smooth on my s939 setup, and its almost an exact copy of your setup.

2. The old Cucial M4 is rock solid and fast, good with the nF4 chipset for sure! Even with never ending re-allocated sectors.

3. NEVER use 2T. Just too much performance hit.


----------



## seaFs

Have a look here. It's in german, but the image shows some interesting results.


Don't bother with the absolute numbers, we already know that Intel CPUs run better than the AMD counterparts.
More interesting is the CPU scaling. While the ATi drivers scale pretty well in theis particular game scene, the nVidia drivers start to unleash the potential with 4 at least threads.

When my new graphics card arrives I could do some benching (HD4890 died a few days after Christmas), I've a HD4850 and a 9800GT lying around. I guess in CPU limited scenes the HD4850 will be the better choice.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Have a look here. It's in german, but the image shows some interesting results.
> 
> 
> Don't bother with the absolute numbers, we already know that Intel CPUs run better than the AMD counterparts.
> More interesting is the CPU scaling. While the ATi drivers scale pretty well in theis particular game scene, the nVidia drivers start to unleash the potential with 4 at least threads.
> 
> When my new graphics card arrives I could do some benching (HD4890 died a few days after Christmas), I've a HD4850 and a 9800GT lying around. I guess in CPU limited scenes the HD4850 will be the better choice.


I have no AMD GPUs to try in my s939. My 260 performs as well as my GTX 580 does, in the 939. No improvement at ALL, ha ha. Sad to say.


----------



## Maximization

are there any CLC that can be modified for S939?


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> are there any CLC that can be modified for S939?


I'm running the H 60 on 939 and I believe that the H-100 would also work, though I haven't tried that particular one.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> I'm running the H 60 on 939 and I believe that the H-100 would also work, though I haven't tried that particular one.


I modded an H60 back in the day. Just have to be creative with the ring mount, springs, and bolts they give you. I actually kept the "mounting kit" I modded for possible future use. Its actually quite easy to mod, but pump/block has to be mounted to mobo before the mobo goes in the case.


----------



## Coolzo

Too bad I got rid of my 3800+ before I knew about this website many years ago. Between that system and my AM2 6000+ though, they lasted longer than anything else I've encountered and with surprisingly good performance to boot (no pun intended).


----------



## gasparspeed

I just retired my FX-60... I used that thing for almost 9 years...


----------



## vladv

@ gasparspeed

What was your highest overclock with your FX-60 , and with what Vcore ?


----------



## yolukas1

Hi!
It's my 1st post on this forum. 2 weeks ago my laptop failed so it is in lenovo repair place or so BUT I'm using my old rig.
Just bought an AMD 3700 KACAE 0602GPMW that is told t be a golden stepping







and mine has a 0013 batch number just for around 6$ usd. I have also 3500+ Venice but its crap(2600 stable only).
Check this out







.

My questions.

1. I am going to take off the IHS from the cpu and I am using a64 freezer pro, any advices or i really shouldn't do it?
2. I am playing League of Legends on this PC using 8600gts and sometimes I have fps drop to 25 anyway.
Should i upgrade to sli 8600gts 9800gt or maybe gtx 260?
3. Can an old 80gb 7200rpm ide drive bootlneck my game performance?

I don't think I want to push this cpu further, I dont think it's needed, anyway it is on 1,45v now and with a REALLY BAD OLD thermal compound core is reaching 58*C. Without IHS 1,5volt and new thermal compund (already ordered







) I'm sure it can reach 3200 easy as this *stepping is one of the best.*

Hm? Worth a try?


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yolukas1*
> 
> Hi!
> It's my 1st post on this forum. 2 weeks ago my laptop failed so it is in lenovo repair place or so BUT I'm using my old rig.
> Just bought an AMD 3700 KACAE 0602GPMW that is told t be a golden stepping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and mine has a 0013 batch number just for around 6$ usd. I have also 3500+ Venice but its crap(2600 stable only).
> Check this out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> My questions.
> 
> 1. I am going to take off the IHS from the cpu and I am using a64 freezer pro, any advices or i really shouldn't do it?
> 2. I am playing League of Legends on this PC using 8600gts and sometimes I have fps drop to 25 anyway.
> Should i upgrade to sli 8600gts 9800gt or maybe gtx 260?
> 3. Can an old 80gb 7200rpm ide drive bootlneck my game performance?
> 
> I don't think I want to push this cpu further, I dont think it's needed, anyway it is on 1,45v now and with a REALLY BAD OLD thermal compound core is reaching 58*C. Without IHS 1,5volt and new thermal compund (already ordered
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) I'm sure it can reach 3200 easy as this *stepping is one of the best.*
> 
> Hm? Worth a try?


For your amusement.








http://www.overclock.net/t/91310/amd-3700-kacae-0602gpmw-amazing-stepping-going-for-3-2ghz/0_100


----------



## yolukas1

Well i've aready checked that whole topic, but i need some answers on my questions please =).


----------



## seaFs

1.) In worst case it improves nothing, in best case you'll get lower temps (only a few degrees) and (more important) lower voltages. But voltage also depends on the motherboard's VRMs and your PSU quality. In any case: practice delidding with a spare CPU and then do it with your precious one. If you want to get even hoigher, buy a better heat sink.

2.) The frame drops are not dependent of your GPU. It's the single core CPU that makes playing experience so ugly. A dual core is the way to go for League of Legends. Furthermore you have Command Rate 2T. In case you are using 2x1GB, you can easily switch to Command Rate 1T. If you are using 4x512MB, then 2T is the only option.

3.) Does the game stutter from hard disk access? If that is the case and you want to get rid of it, buy an SSD. Or more RAM. But the only thing a faster HDD will improve are loading times, not frame rates. In the end: don't bother, because you didn't want to invest into this old rig


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vladv*
> 
> @ gasparspeed
> 
> What was your highest overclock with your FX-60 , and with what Vcore ?


My highest overclock is 2870 Mhz at 1.368 V (VCore was at AUTO).
I did it 2 weeks ago in a friend's house with his ASRock 939NF4G-SATA2 Motherboard... and running on a stock cooler.
Actually, i never tried to overclock it very hard because my motherboard (again, an ASRock 939NF4G-SATA2) is not a good board and i'm a bit scared of frying something...

Anyways, here is the CPU-Z validation for more info: Validation


----------



## yolukas1

Well I just tried to dellid my old 3500+ CRAP a64 and i've done it but i think i damaged a bit 1 leg or 2 legs of 1 small capacitor on cpu pcb.

Now I see what u was talking about and what is the danger lol!

I think i even shouldn't put that cpu to mobo now, maybe ill update photo soon if u want.

I think I can properely dellid this nice 3700+ after seeing what might happen to *capacitors* .
*
My main question is. Will my a64 freezer pro still touch the core good enough without modifications because the IHS is like 2mm thick.

Can any1 answer??*


----------



## seaFs

Remove the black retention bracket off your mainboard. Look at the downside of it and you'll see four little knobs at each corner. You can file them down to lower the whole cooler. This should compensate all the height needed.

Delidding: Also have a look at the PCB of you 3500. The capacitors aren't the biggest problem, but cutting into the wires of the green of the CPU. Best idea is to mark a line on the blade with a pen that shows how deep you can cut into the CPU. Don't make saw-like movements, instead just press the blade with force into the black rubber slowly. Start with all the corners, then cut the long sides. Angle the tip of the blade just slightly towards the IHS to prevent cutting into the PCB.
Do some test mountings with the broken 3500. You need to be very careful when mounting the heat sink onto the naked die. No need for a spacer, but don't tilt the heat sink, or otherwise the die might crack. Even with the IHS planted back on the CPU you need to be careful, because the IHS does not have contact with the PCB, but instead lies fully on the die. I once killed an Opteron 180 this way: IHS was put back on, but the big heat sink tilted the IHS and the die cracked at one corner. Hardly visible, but the CPU is dead.


----------



## zila

Just to make it easier on yourself, use a good bolt on type cooler after de-lidding. I use a Big Typhoon because I can bring it down onto the chip evenly and adjust the pressure as needed. I have seen too many folks chipping and cracking de-lidded chips. Just another option for you to think about.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yolukas1*
> 
> *My main question is. Will my a64 freezer pro still touch the core good enough without modifications because the IHS is like 2mm thick.
> 
> Can any1 answer??*


No it won't. Not evenly and balanced, correctly anyway...

Custom bolt thru FTW.


----------



## yolukas1

Ok anyway I wont delidd now. I have 58*C in full load because of 1,488 vcore and even it is a super stepping it needs such a voltage for 3025 mhz, no way it will run stable with lower voltage.
I am a little bi afraid of this cooler issues and it needs too much work for 3-4 degrees, better heatsink some day would be a solution. This a64 freezer pro is an old one and i think not so efficient as the cpu is really overclocked LOL.

THANKS FOR HELP GUYS U ARE GREAT!

I must bring you some photos soon!!

*
Swisha Mane what is your socket 939 setup??*

Another question i have a seller of Opterons 175 11x200 2200 mhz 2x1mb cache lvl2 san diego for around 30-35$ and he have like 10 or more processors so I can select something good. What do you think?

Will it with 4x 1gb HyperX DDR1 pc3200(there is possibilitry i could get them in ebay allegro) and a super super clocked evga gtx 260 core 216 suit my expectaions? I mean plaing Leage of legends in good res and quality and trying some new games like diablo 3 maybe.

Is it really wort? I LOVE my socket 939 really.

Option 2 is building a new pc based on fx-6300 or 8320 + some ati vga - gonna be expensive ......

Option 3 is i3 intel + some nvidia ........ donna be even more expensive....

Help me please


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yolukas1*
> 
> Ok anyway I wont delidd now. THANKS FOR HELP GUYS U ARE GREAT!
> 
> I must bring you some photos soon!!
> 
> *
> Swisha Mane what is your socket 939 setup??*
> 
> Another question i have a seller of Opterons 175 11x200 2200 mhz 2x1mb cache lvl2 san diego for around 30-35$ and he have like 10 or more processors so I can select something good. What do you think?
> 
> Will it with 4x 1gb HyperX DDR1 pc3200(there is possibilitry i could get them in ebay allegro) and a super super clocked evga gtx 260 core 216 suit my expectaions? I mean plaing Leage of legends in good res and quality and trying some new games like diablo 3 maybe.
> 
> Is it really wort? I LOVE my socket 939 really.
> 
> Option 2 is building a new pc based on fx-6300 or 8320 + some ati vga - gonna be expensive ......
> 
> Option 3 is i3 intel + some nvidia ........ donna be even more expensive....
> 
> Help me please


If you can get us the stepping info such as LCBQE 0632 or LCB9E 0623 on the opty 175s then we can give you an idea of how well it will overclock. You want the ones with later dates though if possible as they tend to OC better (dates are just for example i don't know for sure if those are real dates)

I think with 4 gigs of RAM and a decent 2.8 or higher OC on a dual core 939 chip and you should be able to handle LoL. If i remember correctly the minimum req for D3 is a dual core A64x2 at least 2.4Ghz. Oh and running win 7 minimum would be advisable.


----------



## yolukas1

I was reading aleady a lot about opty stepping anyway i will give u the numbers
and yes i will have them soon !!!

What about evga gtx 260 super super clocked 55 nm

And this hyperx ram cl2 pc3200 4x 1gb will be really really hard to get.
Any advise about ram?
I could buy also some cheap cl3 or i dont know maybe u can give
me any advice where i can get some decent cheap ddr1.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yolukas1*
> 
> I was reading aleady a lot about opty stepping anyway i will give u the numbers
> and yes i will have them soon !!!
> 
> What about evga gtx 260 super super clocked 55 nm
> 
> And this hyperx ram cl2 pc3200 4x 1gb will be really really hard to get.
> Any advise about ram?
> I could buy also some cheap cl3 or i dont know maybe u can give
> me any advice where i can get some decent cheap ddr1.


Honestly, you'd be a lot better off getting an i3 or FX6300 setup. The 939 equipment is awesome, don't get me wrong. But unless you're getting it for next to nothing, or free......then its really not worth it to outright buy the stuff today, unless its for nostalgia sake. Actually, I'd grab the unlocked Pentium Dual Core (forget the model), a cheap overclocking board (z97 I think?), 4GB of DDR3, and a GTX 750. You'd have WAAAAAY more performance, and it'd likely cost around the same price as fixing up an old 939 setup (especially if you need a good board, good DDR, and a good CPU).


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Honestly, you'd be a lot better off getting an i3 or FX6300 setup. The 939 equipment is awesome, don't get me wrong. But unless you're getting it for next to nothing, or free......then its really not worth it to outright buy the stuff today, unless its for nostalgia sake. Actually, I'd grab the unlocked Pentium Dual Core (forget the model), a cheap overclocking board (z97 I think?), 4GB of DDR3, and a GTX 750. You'd have WAAAAAY more performance, and it'd likely cost around the same price as fixing up an old 939 setup (especially if you need a good board, good DDR, and a good CPU).


x2. You can go a long way on a small budget nowadays.


----------



## pakthedude

Here's mine. Main desktop









AMD Athlon 64 X2 4800+
ASRock 939A790GMH
Kingston DDR400 1GB X4
HIS R9 270
Samsung 830 128GB
Corsair HX620
Fractal Design Mini
Scythe Mine

Upgrade path (Former Parts)
Gigabyte GA-K8NF-9 (pencil mod for SATA-2)
Leadtek 7900GT>MSI 5770
Opteron 146>170

I bought 2nd hand CPU for $40 and $10 respectively
170 in 2010
4800+ in 2014

I had my initial build in mid 2006 with 1GB RAM, replaced the Gigabyte after caps bloat in 2010
Now I'm getting ready to upgrade to MSI A88XM-Gaming with 860K next week


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yolukas1*
> 
> *Swisha Mane what is your socket 939 setup??*


http://www.overclock.net/lists/display/view/id/3243963

The pics aren't current, but the specs are.


----------



## yolukas1

Nice =)
*
Btw I noticed why i was getting bsod's in my a8n-sli. Because of poor chipset cooling. I've put a loose 80x80 fan somewhere there and i can lower the cpu voltage from 1,488 to 1.472 and 0 stability problems.*

I would never think that nb cooling may be so important.
Thanks for photos guys.

Well I must build a new pc i know it. I will make a new topic but here ill give u 3 options.

I cannot afford 6300 and 4300 fx still i think is not so good.

1. fm2+ msi a88xn-g45 or the micro version + athlon x4 860k (kaveri without gpu) i would love that but this mobo is so expensive as hell and i need a88 chipset for sure for OC was thinking about asus a88x something also

2 am3+ mobo no idea what +4300 fx

3. intel g3258 + some mobo maybe some micro - any help?

IT'S SAD

But i was reading for whole day and looks like intel would be the best ....

No comments for that and i was using amd for my whole life maybe i should give it a try.

I am just finishing my bachelor degree studies so this new pc must be *as cheap as possible* ....


----------



## seaFs

Socket 771 Xeon quadcore ~20€
Socket 771 to 775 sticker ~ 2€
cheap socket 775 mainboard ~ 15€
4GB DDR2 RAM ~ 10€

Time do mod that stuff: 30 minutes.


----------



## cdoublejj

so like a HD4890 is tops? i wonder if gt640 or some otherl ow end gt700 series would w
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> If you can get us the stepping info such as LCBQE 0632 or LCB9E 0623 on the opty 175s then we can give you an idea of how well it will overclock. You want the ones with later dates though if possible as they tend to OC better (dates are just for example i don't know for sure if those are real dates)
> 
> I think with 4 gigs of RAM and a decent 2.8 or higher OC on a dual core 939 chip and you should be able to handle LoL. If i remember correctly the minimum req for D3 is a dual core A64x2 at least 2.4Ghz. Oh and running win 7 minimum would be advisable.


man if my inet wasn't so limited i'd be tempted to try it my self. i already have 8gb of ram installed, got an HD5570 and an hd6570. just need to get an SSD and over clock with the ECC ram. i wonder weather or not having ECC would help an other wise unstable OC or if it would just increase latency as it corrects all the errors?


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Honestly, you'd be a lot better off getting an i3 or FX6300 setup. The 939 equipment is awesome, don't get me wrong. But unless you're getting it for next to nothing, or free......then its really not worth it to outright buy the stuff today, unless its for nostalgia sake. Actually, I'd grab the unlocked Pentium Dual Core (forget the model), a cheap overclocking board (z97 I think?), 4GB of DDR3, and a GTX 750. You'd have WAAAAAY more performance, and it'd likely cost around the same price as fixing up an old 939 setup (especially if you need a good board, good DDR, and a good CPU).


http://www.overclock.net/t/1538723/micro-center-msi-z97-pc-mate-intel-g3258-89-99-ar-in-store-only


----------



## seaFs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> so like a HD4890 is tops? i wonder if gt640 or some otherl ow end gt700 series would w
> man if my inet wasn't so limited i'd be tempted to try it my self. i already have 8gb of ram installed, got an HD5570 and an hd6570. just need to get an SSD and over clock with the ECC ram. i wonder weather or not having ECC would help an other wise unstable OC or if it would just increase latency as it corrects all the errors?


HD4890 did bring an improvement over a HD4850, which was mostly because of the higher memory bandwidth. This upgrade pushed my rig even further into the CPU limit, desktop resolution is [email protected] GTX460 has approx. the same power as HD4890, just with DX11 support.

ECC does NOT help with overclocking, in fact it makes the rig instable. I tested this a year back and postet my experience. ECC puts more load on the memory controller (64 vs 72bit address width, so 12.5% more stress), making stable non-ECC overclocks become instable, BSOD and application crashes being the result.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> HD4890 did bring an improvement over a HD4850, which was mostly because of the higher memory bandwidth. This upgrade pushed my rig even further into the CPU limit, desktop resolution is [email protected] GTX460 has approx. the same power as HD4890, just with DX11 support.
> 
> ECC does NOT help with overclocking, in fact it makes the rig instable. I tested this a year back and postet my experience. ECC puts more load on the memory controller (64 vs 72bit address width, so 12.5% more stress), making stable non-ECC overclocks become instable, BSOD and application crashes being the result.


hhhmmm so another GPU upgrade may be in order in the future, possible a new lower mid range card. So ECC off it will be then.


----------



## SwishaMane

Ive been happy with my gtx 260s performance on my s939. And it gets used decently. HD video is flawless.

EDIT: I actually want to upgrade my s939 GPU to something just as powerful as the gtx 260, but new and smaller. Like a 750ti, which should be light years ahead of the 260now that I think about it.

I want to save some room in the case, reduce power consumption by a hair, and reduce the air resistance on my rad. Right now, the 260 is HUGE and FAT with the accelero on it, and Im sure its adding resistance to my rad's fans.


----------



## Kryton

It's been quiet in this thread as of late - Figured I'd give it a kick.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> It's been quiet in this thread as of late - Figured I'd give it a kick.


Nice! I wish i had a good 939 motherboard to OC my FX-60... So far it went to 2.85 on the stock cooler








What motherboard are you using?


----------



## zila

That is just a wicked chip you're running there Kryton.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> What motherboard are you using?


DFI Ultra D - I recently repaired it after it had sat around for about 4 years with a blown MOSFET.
Robbed one from a truly dead board, replaced it and it's obviously working as it should now.

May look into doing a mod or two to the board if I can find the right stuff for doing it in the first place.

@ Zila - Thanks!


----------



## seaFs

Short question: What would 24/7 clocks be for such a chip with air cooling? I guess you are doing this under water for just a couple of hours.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Short question: What would 24/7 clocks be for such a chip with air cooling? I guess you are doing this under water for just a couple of hours.


Realistically, right around 3 gig.


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Short question: What would 24/7 clocks be for such a chip with air cooling? I guess you are doing this under water for just a couple of hours.


I've got my LCBQE running on a relatively mild air cooler at 3.0Ghz. I've even got a dual that can do 3.1 stable on air. It's all luck of the draw though. I have a third I'd sell that also does 3 stable on air, but I haven't got enough rep to sell on here yet. Thought I'd get more when running my comp a while back, but alas...

I want to make sure it ends up in good hands though and not selling it on an auction site that I can't really sell by advertising it's OC abilities. Maybe I'll put it up as a prize in another competition.









And @Kryton Great job on that dual core clock


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> I have a third I'd sell that also does 3 stable on air, but I haven't got enough rep to sell on here yet.


PM me some info and a price. Maybe we can work something out.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> It's been quiet in this thread as of late - Figured I'd give it a kick.


W0W, That is just sick!


----------



## Kryton

Thanks Hue and good hearing from you - I hope all is going well your way.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> Thanks Hue and good hearing from you - I hope all is going well your way.


Even Keel here, Funny thing I brought my 939 mining rig to the casino with me as I'll be here a week. Lol


----------



## nategr8ns

Now that's dedication!


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*
> 
> Now that's dedication!


Just for S&G's I'm mining Monero on it and getting 4.3 h/s


----------



## seaFs

Some news (at least for me).
There is a big mod bios collection for old Mainboards (mostly socket 462). Link

I found an interesting one for the Asus A8N-E, tunring it into an A8N-SLI Premium BIOS-wise.
Now there is the important chipset voltage option available (1.5V and 1.6V, from original stock 1.4V). Hitting HTT 260MHz currently, from before lackluster 235MHz. Further testing incoming.


----------



## exhornet

Just saw this thread, WOW. Socket 939 was legendary. I had Athlon64 3000+. I used it at 2.65Ghz !!
Though, I burned a couple of rams once. Good times...


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Some news (at least for me).
> There is a big mod bios collection for old Mainboards (mostly socket 462). Link
> 
> I found an interesting one for the Asus A8N-E, tunring it into an A8N-SLI Premium BIOS-wise.
> Now there is the important chipset voltage option available (1.5V and 1.6V, from original stock 1.4V). Hitting HTT 260MHz currently, from before lackluster 235MHz. Further testing incoming.


That's my site bro. Could have just asked.








I have more than that. I just haven't uploaded them to the site in a while. If you have a special one you're looking for, just shoot me a message. Maybe I'll have something.


----------



## seaFs

Wow, so we are just moving in circles, I guess







Nice collection.
Short question: Anything special about the A8N32 bios there, or is it just the official 1405? No description in there, unfortunately.


----------



## Mr.Scott

The 1405 is the official. I threw it in there so I had a base bios to mod from.


----------



## seaFs

But you found nothing to mod in this bios, did you?


----------



## Mr.Scott

If you mean un-hide, no, nothing that I can remember anyway. It's been a while since I did anything for that board.
There are things to mod in almost every bios though. Example: AGESA codes, Romsip tables, Etc.
Sometimes there is even enough room to add items. Onboard Memtest 86+ for example.


----------



## SwishaMane

So I inherited another dying board... An AMD 754 with popped caps. I only see 4 bad caps. Easy fix. Thought Id share. I've never had a 754 board or CPU before, so its pretty cool. Sempron tho. Is anything here noteworthy? Whack chip? Whack board?









Biostar NF325-A7

http://www.biostar-usa.com/mbdetails.asp?model=nf325-a7


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> So I inherited another dying board... An AMD 754 with popped caps....
> ...


Don't waste the effort unless you just want to suicide the chip.

Actually I don't think that board could kill that chip! LOL

Try it with no heat sink.


----------



## SwishaMane

So its flat out junk?


----------



## seaFs

754 = cheap 939. No second memory controller. It's just the office/budget version.


----------



## SwishaMane

Hella whack son.

Eh, delid practice, and free board components to strip I guess... Never know when i might need a 14 year old capacitor for somethin. HA HAAAAAAAAAA


----------



## cdoublejj

http://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2015/04/27/ask-ars-my-ssd-does-garbage-collection-so-i-dont-need-trim-right/


----------



## cdoublejj

Pick an TX750, 128gb micron SSD, HD6670, already have 8gb of DDR1 ECC and tower heat pipe cooler. maybe i will take pics if and when the upgrade is done. someone has to do their chores before the upgrades can go in.


----------



## vladv

Can't wait to see your setup cdoublejj.


----------



## seaFs

Mr. Scott, you said you did some BIOS editing. Are you familiar with memory addressing or something like that? I know that some Socket 940 server boards are capable to use 4GB DRAM modules. Any chances that you have a look into the memory support list of the A8N32? I'm pretty sure it's "just" a BIOS issue preventing me from booting up this board with 16GB RAM.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> I'm pretty sure it's "just" a BIOS issue preventing me from booting up this board with 16GB RAM.


PLEASE MAKE THIS HAPPEN!

Edit: IDK about you guys, but this is revolutionary computer science we are involved in. Consumer level desktop components from 2005 (when 2GB RAM was considered great) and pushing the barrier to a possible 16GB of RAM.

It blew my mind when I got 8GB RAM to boot and work 100% stable no problem. CAN NOT IMAGINE 16GB of RAM.

Can physical hardware damage occur if someone where to, lets say, use a spare BIOS chip to learn and mess around with BIOS editing?

Mr. Scott is going to HOUND on me again with that "BIOS editing isn't as easy as you think..." like last time.


----------



## jakjak

Hi,
A few years ago I gave my old compaq Sr1910x, upgraded with an x2-3800+, to my cousin. It was such a smooth running system with xp. He recently passed away and.. that box was still up and running, so I'm getting it back. The a8n-la HP board is, of course, locked down. Is there a modded bios that would work?... and can I even flash this board? I was thinking of building a NAS server, since I can't think of another excuse for yet another box to play with.


----------



## cdoublejj

someone might be able to mod it. some forums have a bios mod request section.


----------



## seaFs

Nothing to unlock
http://www.bios-mods.com/forum/archive/index.php?thread-657.html


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Can physical hardware damage occur if someone where to, lets say, use a spare BIOS chip to learn and mess around with BIOS editing?
> 
> Mr. Scott is going to HOUND on me again with that "BIOS editing isn't as easy as you think..." like last time.


Nope. Worst that can happen is you brick the bios chip.








Have at it. That's how you learn.


----------



## jakjak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Nothing to unlock
> http://www.bios-mods.com/forum/archive/index.php?thread-657.html


Hmm. Does that mean there is no code in the bios to change voltage/clock/etc ?
Is there another bios version, say for the -E or -SLI boards that would work?? Sorry if this is a dumb question.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakjak*
> 
> Hmm. Does that mean there is no code in the bios to change voltage/clock/etc ?
> Is there another bios version, say for the -E or -SLI boards that would work?? Sorry if this is a dumb question.


It mean there are no functions in the bios to make any changes and/or the board itself does not support it.
Cross flashing bios's from a different board 99% of the time results in a bricked board.
BTW, here's an avatar for you.


----------



## zila

Scottie...............LMAO, I love it.


----------



## jakjak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> It mean there are no functions in the bios to make any changes and/or the board itself does not support it.
> Cross flashing bios's from a different board 99% of the time results in a bricked board.
> BTW, here's an avatar for you.


Thanks... however I needed to modify the avatar a bit... I actually still have a little more hair than that, but I've been playing with PCs since I added a memory expansion card to my dads Tandy 1000 to bring it up to 640K of RAM.... with that 8088 running at 4.77Mhz, it didn't actually make much difference, sigh.

I was just hoping that there was a retail ASUS board that mirrored the HP/COMPAQ only with a more functional bios.

eh, how much processing power does a NAS box need, anyway?


----------



## seaFs

The Athlon64 is similar to the Intel Atom CPUs. But just in terms of performance, nothing more. You can undervolt/underclock the 3800+ to 1GHz, maybe 800MHz will run, too. Use RMClock to do this in Windows, since the bios won't let you do anything in that manner. Only opt for it when you can cool the CPU completely passive, I presume you don't want your NAS to make any sound.
Power consumption will be pretty high. The Athlon64 never was very energy efficient.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakjak*
> 
> Thanks... however I needed to modify the avatar a bit... I actually still have a little more hair than that, but I've been playing with PCs since I added a memory expansion card to my dads Tandy 1000 to bring it up to 640K of RAM.... with that 8088 running at 4.77Mhz, it didn't actually make much difference, sigh.


The avvy was based on nothing more than your name.........since my life revolves around cartoons, it was the first thing I thought of.
No offence intended.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> The avvy was based on nothing more than your name.........since my life revolves around cartoons, it was the first thing I thought of.
> No offence intended.


so either you have kids or work at some kind of studio.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> so either you have kids or work at some kind of studio.


Well...........I have more kids than I can stand, but they're all grown up.
I'm the biggest kid.


----------



## cdoublejj




----------



## Hueristic

WHERE'D IT GO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

http://archive.is/www.rebelshavenforum.com






















:CRY:


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> WHERE'D IT GO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> http://archive.is/www.rebelshavenforum.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :CRY:


They've been gone for at least a year now.


----------



## zila

Yeah, Scottie and I were talking about this when it happened. So sad, we've lost so many places like that. The info contained in places like that was priceless.


----------



## Hueristic

WHERE'D IT GO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

http://archive.is/www.rebelshavenforum.com
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> They've been gone for at least a year now.


It's been many moons since I needed that resource but I feel really nostalgic and a little depressed seeing this.


----------



## jakjak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> The avvy was based on nothing more than your name.........since my life revolves around cartoons, it was the first thing I thought of.
> No offence intended.


None taken. I've probably watched The Incredibles at least 4 or 5 times... but now my youngest is 18 and more interested in GTA5 and COD-Ghost... and texting his girl friend..... at least my old 939 board is still chugging along like always. I always thought of it as very energy efficient, but I guess at that time I was marvelling at how much less heat it created than a Pentium-D. Times change.


----------



## cdoublejj

well vogons isn't going any where soon. might not be the same thing but, lots of smart folks over there to. 939 is just becoming retro so more of them are popping up there.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> WHERE'D IT GO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> http://archive.is/www.rebelshavenforum.com
> It's been many moons since I needed that resource but I feel really nostalgic and a little depressed seeing this.


Looking for a bios? Maybe I can help you.

http://classicplatforms.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=173
If you don't find what you need in here, just ask. I have more that I haven't uploaded to the site yet.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakjak*
> 
> None taken. I've probably watched The Incredibles at least 4 or 5 times... but now my youngest is 18 and more interested in GTA5 and COD-Ghost... and texting his girl friend..... at least my old 939 board is still chugging along like always. I always thought of it as very energy efficient, but I guess at that time I was marvelling at how much less heat it created than a Pentium-D. Times change.


My youngest is 18 also.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Looking for a bios? Maybe I can help you.
> 
> http://classicplatforms.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=173
> If you don't find what you need in here, just ask. I have more that I haven't uploaded to the site yet.


I don't ATM, but if I do I'll hit you up. The tutorials were a nice resource. Where can they be found. That is what I was going to link for the earlier poster.


----------



## cdoublejj

oh you can be sure i'm gonna test GTAV on this bad boy at some point. i'll have to re overclock it with thew ECC ram if it will even OC. i assume lots of benching may be needed. i wonder if ECC will kick on an unstable OC so it passes stress test but costs performance.


----------



## Kryton

Just sharing here - Had some excellent luck this week with a pair of DFI boards I picked up for $30.00, shipped.

One is a CFX3200 and the other is a SLI-DR, the CFX worked right out of the box and the other had a blown BIOS, reflashing it fixed the board and both seem to work OK.
I was amazed with how they looked too, both boards look like new - Clean and shiny.









I'm just hoping these will also perform, they should being what they are and with all said and done, it was one of the best deals I've ever made for some of the best boards ever made for 939.


----------



## seaFs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> oh you can be sure i'm gonna test GTAV on this bad boy at some point. i'll have to re overclock it with thew ECC ram if it will even OC. i assume lots of benching may be needed. i wonder if ECC will kick on an unstable OC so it passes stress test but costs performance.


PM me when you'll start do do this. There was a problem with 4x2GB oveclocking that neither Prime95 blend nor Memtest86+ were able to find quickly. It needed some "special" stress test (unpacking a certain 3GB archive) to reproducably find the error within seconds/minutes, while Prime95 blend took over half an hour and Memtest86+ didn't even signal any issues.

I'm curious, though, whether ECC will improve3 stability in your rig, because I had no luck and disabled ECC completely.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> PM me when you'll start do do this. There was a problem with 4x2GB oveclocking that neither Prime95 blend nor Memtest86+ were able to find quickly. It needed some "special" stress test (unpacking a certain 3GB archive) to reproducably find the error within seconds/minutes, while Prime95 blend took over half an hour and Memtest86+ didn't even signal any issues.
> 
> I'm curious, though, whether ECC will improve3 stability in your rig, because I had no luck and disabled ECC completely.


well if i can disable assuming haven't disabled and have it OC / perform normally that would be nice. actually i bet it's enable to try and prevent / lower the BSODs from the faulty 8800Gt it's running ATM. a nice HD6670 and a corsair TX750 ought to stabilize things a bit. also so more 120mm fans if doesn't have enough fans already. and see if it can clock with ECC disabled?

oh yeah that just makes me smile AND you've earned some more respect from me, when you can tell me tests like memtest and prime fail to find errors i know you have endured some of the same trials tribulations.







it's kind of like earning a metal. nothing like having memtest fail ONLY after 120 hours testing.


----------



## vladv

Wow 2700 pages and counting for our socket 939 club







!!


----------



## Poser

Just combing my subscriptions....whoah nostalgia. I miss my opteron / DFX combo. Still the most performance I have ever eked out of a chip!


----------



## Jeffredo

Just ordered an X2 3800+ (939) from Fleabay. Have all the other parts laying around so I'll be able to piece together a project PC and tinker with OCing it a bit. Glad to see there's such a huge trove of information here. Will post back later when its up and running (and OC'd).


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffredo*
> 
> Just ordered an X2 3800+ (939) from Fleabay. Have all the other parts laying around so I'll be able to piece together a project PC and tinker with OCing it a bit. Glad to see there's such a huge trove of information here. Will post back later when its up and running (and OC'd).


Its a fun platform to play around with. I've only got one left set up at the moment doing just the same thing (although its got an opty 165 in it). I just can't bring myself to use a new windows key to keep it current. I haven't tried linux yet so that might be an option. Anyone have any experience with that? Driver nightmare?


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> I just can't bring myself to use a new windows key to keep it current.


I don't understand this concept...


----------



## EniGma1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> Just sharing here - Had some excellent luck this week with a pair of DFI boards I picked up for $30.00, shipped.
> 
> One is a CFX3200 ...


Despite the bad rep, the CFX3200 was by far my favorite board on this platform. It could OC like a beast and had access to more options than even the best ROG boards ever let you mess with. Set a couple world records on that board back in the day







(3.45GHz on air Opty 165 and 1.9GHz HTT speed on air). It is really such a shame the boards were only in production such a short time and very few places carried them.


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> I don't understand this concept...


I have 5 other newer computers that I have paid for modern (7 and up) windows OS. I really don't NEED a 939 system that's updated seeing as anything that requires more than DX9 needs more power than the system can give. I also get cheap university discounted windows keys and they are only good for one install. I can't switch it between boards. I know and tried... that was a long call to MS. I also, unfortunately for me, just can't bring myself to lie and say its the first use or same board. As far as Linux goes. Will it work? I haven't even tried it yet, but was considering it since I don't have to worry about it getting locked onto one board.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffredo*
> 
> Just ordered an X2 3800+ (939) from Fleabay. Have all the other parts laying around so I'll be able to piece together a project PC and tinker with OCing it a bit. Glad to see there's such a huge trove of information here. Will post back later when its up and running (and OC'd).


Welcome, Never too late. You'll have a great time.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> ... As far as Linux goes. Will it work? ....


Why wouldn't it?


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> Why wouldn't it?


Was just wondering if there would be issues with drivers on the older hardware like my 1950 pros, or if it just uses the ones made for windows. Read this as meaning I'm someone who has never used Linux and has very little knowledge about it at all, but is certainly willing to give it a go if I can maintain most of my functionality. Only problems I think I might run into would be old windows games that I like playing or maybe graphics drivers.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Was just wondering if there would be issues with drivers on the older hardware like my 1950 pros, or if it just uses the ones made for windows. Read this as meaning I'm someone who has never used Linux and has very little knowledge about it at all, but is certainly willing to give it a go if I can maintain most of my functionality. Only problems I think I might run into would be old windows games that I like playing or maybe graphics drivers.


I'm not a nix expert but I think they have Vesa down.

http://linux.die.net/man/4/vesa


----------



## Kryton

I'll have some free time later and I'll throw an install onto a 939 setup just to see what it does since I'm curious myself how it would do.


----------



## gasparspeed

Hm... a lot of time has passed since I unbuilt my 939 machine...
I'm thinking about rebuilding it just for 1 hour or something.
Do you know if a AM3 Athlon II X2 heatsink can cool a 3000+ Venice? (i think that the clip can work, but I dunno if it will overheat, definitely i'm not going to test it on my 110W FX-60...)
The heatsink itself looks tiny...


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Hm... a lot of time has passed since I unbuilt my 939 machine...
> I'm thinking about rebuilding it just for 1 hour or something.
> Do you know if a AM3 Athlon II X2 heatsink can cool a 3000+ Venice? (i think that the clip can work, but I dunno if it will overheat, definitely i'm not going to test it on my 110W FX-60...)
> The heatsink itself looks tiny...


I'm sure it will @ stock but if you want to Oc it then you'll need better. Just make sure to monitor the temp as you bench. You could probably push to 2200 or so with that hs.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> I'm sure it will @ stock but if you want to Oc it then you'll need better. Just make sure to monitor the temp as you bench. You could probably push to 2200 or so with that hs.


Hmmm, nice, this weekend i'm going to see if my 939 it's still alive








Maybe i can swap that stock AMD fan and put in a 80mm Delta or something to have better cooling (i really hate the mounting system on my second-hand Scythe Ninja-PLUS, took 30 mins to install it, and 3 hours to uninstall)
Also, it's bad if i run a system with "bad" caps? (i don't want to kill the only 939 board i have :/ )
I don't have a picture rignt now, but there are some caps that look like half blown, but still they're not dead, next to the RAM slots IIRC.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Hmmm, nice, this weekend i'm going to see if my 939 it's still alive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe i can swap that stock AMD fan and put in a 80mm Delta or something to have better cooling (i really hate the mounting system on my second-hand Scythe Ninja-PLUS, took 30 mins to install it, and 3 hours to uninstall)
> Also, it's bad if i run a system with "bad" caps? (i don't want to kill the only 939 board i have :/ )
> I don't have a picture rignt now, but there are some caps that look like half blown, but still they're not dead, next to the RAM slots IIRC.


Bad caps won't hurt a cpu but it will make the system unstable and that will only get worse with OCing.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> Bad caps won't hurt a cpu but it will make the system unstable and that will only get worse with OCing.


Well, that explains alot of things... (xD)
I didn't want to OC it anyways, so, not bad news...
And those caps can be replaced or something? (i don't think that the warranty covers bad caps, specially for a 10 year old Motherboard...)


----------



## seaFs

just make sure the new caps have the same (or higher) voltage and capacity. For heavy endurance tests use low ESR caps with 105°C operating temperature (aka the good ones).


----------



## SwishaMane

If anyone ever needs a cap replacement job, Ill do it for free if you pay for parts and shipping obviously.







Just a note.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> If anyone ever needs a cap replacement job, Ill do it for free if you pay for parts and shipping obviously.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a note.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Its a fun platform to play around with. I've only got one left set up at the moment doing just the same thing (although its got an opty 165 in it). I just can't bring myself to use a new windows key to keep it current. I haven't tried linux yet so that might be an option. Anyone have any experience with that? Driver nightmare?


how many machines do you have all together to play with?


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> how many machines do you have all together to play with?


Umm lets see.
I have working
DFI SLI-DR (1 bulging CAP)
Asus A8R32-MVP (This is my personal favorite as its rock steady once you learn how to work it)
Epox EP-9NPA3 Ultra
Abit An8 Fatal1ty (non sli version and possibly not working though I haven't really tried to mess with it)
Some HP pavilion ASUS An8 LE board or something

oh yeah and a SLI-DR that I cannot get to post, but looks in perfect condition and is complete with box and all accessories as far as I can tell.

I have 4 various x2 opterons, an x2 Toledo and a few venice single cores and a delidded single core opty. 148 I believe.

Probably also have 10 or more x2 kits of ram. At least 2 sets of 4x1gigs for daily use for sure and a few good clocking pairs for OC fun.

I really don't need all of it since I've finally replaced all the main computers with DDR3 machines (all FM1 if anyone is curious because it is SOOOO cheap to get a quad core on that platform and they make good HTPCs). 939 is just for playing around with. Like I mentioned before somewhere, I may end up parting out systems eventually. On here preferably when I get enough rep to do so.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Umm lets see.
> I have working
> DFI SLI-DR (1 bulging CAP)
> Asus A8R32-MVP (This is my personal favorite as its rock steady once you learn how to work it)
> Epox EP-9NPA3 Ultra
> Abit An8 Fatal1ty (non sli version and possibly not working though I haven't really tried to mess with it)
> Some HP pavilion ASUS An8 LE board or something
> 
> oh yeah and a SLI-DR that I cannot get to post, but looks in perfect condition and is complete with box and all accessories as far as I can tell.
> 
> I have 4 various x2 opterons, an x2 Toledo and a few venice single cores and a delidded single core opty. 148 I believe.
> 
> Probably also have 10 or more x2 kits of ram. At least 2 sets of 4x1gigs for daily use for sure and a few good clocking pairs for OC fun.
> 
> I really don't need all of it since I've finally replaced all the main computers with DDR3 machines (all FM1 if anyone is curious because it is SOOOO cheap to get a quad core on that platform and they make good HTPCs). 939 is just for playing around with. Like I mentioned before somewhere, I may end up parting out systems eventually. On here preferably when I get enough rep to do so.


Holy Makeral
That's a lot of 939 stuff to play with!








I would love to have one of those motherboards, my ASRock 939NF4G-SATAII is not the best 939 motherboard ever...


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Holy Makeral
> That's a lot of 939 stuff to play with!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would love to have one of those motherboards, my ASRock 939NF4G-SATAII is not the best 939 motherboard ever...


Edit your post, mods get real touchy about that.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> Edit your post, mods get real touchy about that.


Edited as suggested, thanks


----------



## SoloCamo

Still have my FX-53 around here, opty 165, opty 180, x2 4200+, etc. only a gigabyte k8u-939 board..with AGP (still have the x800pro laying around now, 6600gt, and for fun I like to use my ti4200 128mb in there too). Still have my OCZ vx gold DDR500 (2x 512mb) with the fun 2-2-2-5 timings Used to play skyrim with a 4200+ and gtx550ti back in the day on one of the boards I had with pci-e... ahh nostalgia


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SoloCamo*
> 
> Still have my FX-53 around here, opty 165, opty 180, x2 4200+, etc. only a gigabyte k8u-939 board..with AGP (still have the x800pro laying around now, 6600gt, and for fun I like to use my ti4200 128mb in there too). Still have my OCZ vx gold DDR500 (2x 512mb) with the fun 2-2-2-5 timings Used to play skyrim with a 4200+ and gtx550ti back in the day on one of the boards I had with pci-e... ahh nostalgia


That was a nice collection.

Hmm, I wonder when K8 will get more expanded at Computer History Museum?

http://www.computerhistory.org/collections/catalog/102667420

I just spoke to them and they are going to fix and expand the description.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Umm lets see.
> I have working
> DFI SLI-DR (1 bulging CAP)
> Asus A8R32-MVP (This is my personal favorite as its rock steady once you learn how to work it)
> Epox EP-9NPA3 Ultra
> Abit An8 Fatal1ty (non sli version and possibly not working though I haven't really tried to mess with it)
> Some HP pavilion ASUS An8 LE board or something
> 
> oh yeah and a SLI-DR that I cannot get to post, but looks in perfect condition and is complete with box and all accessories as far as I can tell.
> 
> I have 4 various x2 opterons, an x2 Toledo and a few venice single cores and a delidded single core opty. 148 I believe.
> 
> Probably also have 10 or more x2 kits of ram. At least 2 sets of 4x1gigs for daily use for sure and a few good clocking pairs for OC fun.
> 
> I really don't need all of it since I've finally replaced all the main computers with DDR3 machines (all FM1 if anyone is curious because it is SOOOO cheap to get a quad core on that platform and they make good HTPCs). 939 is just for playing around with. Like I mentioned before somewhere, I may end up parting out systems eventually. On here preferably when I get enough rep to do so.


linux.

i'm thinking like steam os or an ubuntu base with gnome. also Elementary OS is making a buzz seems nice and smooth. i like lubuntu but, SOMETIMES it's a little rough around the edges but, it's light.


----------



## cdoublejj

Bought the wrong PSU so now i have no cables for it.


----------



## seaFs

I just remembered that I did a mod to a K8N Neo2 PE. Soldered the 4th power phase on it. It ran for some years, but I had no proper equipement to check for it's usefulness.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bought the wrong PSU so now i have no cables for it.


Look up your rails amperage rating and determine what draw you need and make appropriate connections.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> Look up your rails amperage rating and determine what draw you need and make appropriate connections.


too late , i ordered the wrong one i have 6 pin NON "w" style cables on had this thing takes 5 pin flat style. they seems exceedingly rare and hard to find now too! it's gonna be a while.


----------



## Jeffredo

Well I have it set up. Here's the specs:

Athlon 64 X2 3800+
DFI Lanparty UT NF4 Ultra D
PNY Optima SSD 240GB
4GB PNY PC 3200 RAM
GTX 650 2GB
Audigy 2 PCI sound card
DeepCool Icewind cpu cooler
Windows 7 64 bit

It was a really simple build - no issues at all. I was surprised that the nForce4 motherboard would recognize a single SATA III SSD with no BIOS tweaking and Win 7 would install just as easily as on a new system. After it was fully patched I did a really simple OC - just raised the FSB to 240, upped the CPU voltage to 1.4 and its now running at 2.4 Ghz (basically X2 4600+ speed). Not sure if I want to push it higher without better cooling. Right now it hits 55C when stressed (stays in the mid 40s while gaming, low 30s idle).

It was a fun little retro build with mostly used parts or ones I already had. I'm loading up a bunch of mid-decade games on it (which play great), but even WoW Warlords of Draenor will run the "fair" preset and stay between 33-60 FPS @ 1920x1200. The GTX 650 is definitely bottlenecked a lot by the X2.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffredo*
> 
> Well I have it set up. Here's the specs:
> 
> Athlon 64 X2 3800+
> DFI Lanparty UT NF4 Ultra D
> PNY Optima SSD 240GB
> 4GB PNY PC 3200 RAM
> GTX 650 2GB
> Audigy 2 PCI sound card
> DeepCool Icewind cpu cooler
> Windows 7 64 bit
> 
> It was a really simple build - no issues at all. I was surprised that the nForce4 motherboard would recognize a single SATA III SSD with no BIOS tweaking and Win 7 would install just as easily as on a new system. After it was fully patched I did a really simple OC - just raised the FSB to 240, upped the CPU voltage to 1.4 and its now running at 2.4 Ghz (basically X2 4600+ speed). Not sure if I want to push it higher without better cooling. Right now it hits 55C when stressed (stays in the mid 40s while gaming, low 30s idle).
> 
> It was a fun little retro build with mostly used parts or ones I already had. I'm loading up a bunch of mid-decade games on it (which play great), but even WoW Warlords of Draenor will run the "fair" preset and stay between 33-60 FPS @ 1920x1200. The GTX 650 is definitely bottlenecked a lot by the X2.


Wow, sweet build!
I think 55C at load is nice, my FX-60 hits 65C on load running at Stock settings.


----------



## Hueristic

I had a 3200+ running at 145c but that was a blocked fan. These chips are beasts!









Was wondering why it kept rebooting.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> I had a 3200+ running at 145c but that was a blocked fan. These chips are beasts!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Was wondering why it kept rebooting.


lol, the first time i changed my heatsink on my X2 4200+ (that day i was upgrading from a 3000+) i totally forgot about the AMD locking lever, i turned on the pc, went to the BIOS just to see one single number... 105 ºC... Then the PC turned off...


----------



## toughacton

Well I got one up and running as a kitchen PC for my wife. She kept complaining that her iPAD was too quiet and got in the way while cooking so my 939 lives again! Here's where its at for the moment http://valid.x86.fr/kia4e6 Nice and 24/7 stable. Streams netflix at 720p like a champ.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Well I got one up and running as a kitchen PC for my wife. She kept complaining that her iPAD was too quiet and got in the way while cooking so my 939 lives again! Here's where its at for the moment http://valid.x86.fr/kia4e6 Nice and 24/7 stable. Streams netflix at 720p like a champ.


Nice overclock you got there!
Also, one question, is that HD 7450 OEM (i got myself a HD 7470 OEM)? And why are you running Windows Vista?


----------



## toughacton

Thanks. I'm pretty sure that with a better cooler this would be 3.1 stable at the minimum seeing as it only takes 1.34V under load for 3GHz stable.

As for the 7450, its actually a xfx 6450 but the driver just calls it a 7450. I'm running vista because it still has support until 2017 and it was free







I work at a university and get 1 copy of each OS for $20. I have 5 other computers 2 with windows 7 (one 32 bit and one 64 bit) 2 that originally had windows 8 (32 and 64) and one 8.1 64 bit. So I'm out of cheap OS keys unless I want an 8.1 32bit







At least until windows 10 gets released.
For a machine this old I just didn't see the point in trying to get 8.1 to work on it. I imagine the driver support is a nightmare/nonexistent for some components. Though I haven't actually tried it. I'm actually hoping that I get new keys when I upgrade my other machines to Windows 10 and can still use my old keys (though I'm not holding my breath for that)


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Thanks. I'm pretty sure that with a better cooler this would be 3.1 stable at the minimum seeing as it only takes 1.34V under load for 3GHz stable.
> 
> As for the 7450, its actually a xfx 6450 but the driver just calls it a 7450. I'm running vista because it still has support until 2017 and it was free
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I work at a university and get 1 copy of each OS for $20. I have 5 other computers 2 with windows 7 (one 32 bit and one 64 bit) 2 that originally had windows 8 (32 and 64) and one 8.1 64 bit. So I'm out of cheap OS keys unless I want an 8.1 32bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At least until windows 10 gets released.
> For a machine this old I just didn't see the point in trying to get 8.1 to work on it. I imagine the driver support is a nightmare/nonexistent for some components. Though I haven't actually tried it. I'm actually hoping that I get new keys when I upgrade my other machines to Windows 10 and can still use my old keys (though I'm not holding my breath for that)


I didn't had any problems running Windows 7 on my 939, and you could get it for free (If you know what i mean...)
I haven't tried Windows 8/8.1 yet...
And you should be able to use the old keys if they are not OEM AFAIK.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Well I got one up and running as a kitchen PC for my wife. She kept complaining that her iPAD was too quiet and got in the way while cooking so my 939 lives again! Here's where its at for the moment http://valid.x86.fr/kia4e6 Nice and 24/7 stable. Streams netflix at 720p like a champ.


----------



## Comp1demon

Was wondering if anyone can help me out with getting audio on a ASUS A8n-SLI Deluxe MOBO with windows 7.

it has AC97 built in audio.

I tried the realtech site for the ALC850 reference download but it did not work.

if anyone has any ideas it would really be helpful.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Comp1demon*
> 
> Was wondering if anyone can help me out with getting audio on a ASUS A8n-SLI Deluxe MOBO with windows 7.
> 
> it has AC97 built in audio.
> 
> I tried the realtech site for the ALC850 reference download but it did not work.
> 
> if anyone has any ideas it would really be helpful.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


I would go to the asus site and try the vista driver (either 32 or 64 bit whichever you have). It has a chance of working in win 7. Here's a link


----------



## Comp1demon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> I would go to the asus site and try the vista driver (either 32 or 64 bit whichever you have). It has a chance of working in win 7. Here's a link


I tried that... when you try the SETUP it says it is a VISTA Package only.


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Comp1demon*
> 
> I tried that... when you try the SETUP it says it is a VISTA Package only.


Won't let you download or won't run the install? I can't remember and I'm at work, but I think if its a zip you can extract it and just use windows to find a driver and direct it to the extracted files. IF its only an installer without the separate driver file, you'll have to go looking for the actual one elsewhere.
Maybe try this driver site


----------



## Comp1demon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> I would go to the asus site and try the vista driver (either 32 or 64 bit whichever you have). It has a chance of working in win 7. Here's a link


I downloaded them.

I went to device manager and clicked on my mutimedia device.

Update driver

Select on my own (since auto did not find anything)

Selected sound and soundcards.

Selected HAVE DISK

Then pointed it to the VISTA 64 folder

It found 20+ REALTECH 97" drivers to select from.
One was just audio 97
the other was audio 97 for VIA
There were like 10 of the same ones for each.
I tried a few and none worked. I get a Exclamation on the audio controller and a Code 10 can not start.


----------



## mattliston

it stopping because its not Vista is actually optimal.

Just right click on the driver installer, go to properties, find the compatability tab, and make sure you choose Vista. If there is an option for admin rights, check that box.

BAM! works great. Ive done this on tons of older computers.


----------



## Comp1demon

NO go.

I was able to install (as administrator) but it did not install drivers just the Soundman.exe app for the volume mixer.
I tried to change the Compatibility mode but it was greyed out.

I'm open to other ideas...

Thanks


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Comp1demon*
> 
> NO go.
> 
> I was able to install (as administrator) but it did not install drivers just the Soundman.exe app for the volume mixer.
> I tried to change the Compatibility mode but it was greyed out.
> 
> I'm open to other ideas...
> 
> Thanks


sound drivers? if yes id pick up a PCI asus xonar series and use the unified drivers.


----------



## gapottberg

Ahhh the memories, ten years was a long time ago...

My first ever solo build, a 939 Athlon 64 Winchester. Stock speed was 1.8GHz and after frying my first mobo socket (overclocked the my HT Bus too high i think) i got a new board and joined this community.

With some good advice from folks around here, i managed a stable 2.7GHz OC on that bad boy. One of my favorite systems to this day i ever worked on.


----------



## cdoublejj

I've since installed a cfx bridge. also these gigabyte wifi cards are pretty good. i've got them in at least 3 machines now. I may have made a grave mistake seeing as it's an nvidia chipset i see no crossfire option in catalyst. maybe i'f i'm lucky a hack exists. other wise the only other single GPU i have is a GTX480.

Also i need to re over clock this thing. my old OC as pictured below was with 4gb of ram.




















EDIT: I can only hope i can find a hack,

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php/552975-Crossfire-works-on-Nvidia-chipsets-Oh-yes-it-does-%29

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?140942-crossfire-mod-driver-on-nvidia-chipset&s=407114b1f505c1aa6660836a9b26aef7&p=2132627&viewfull=1#post2132627

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?140942-crossfire-mod-driver-on-nvidia-chipset&s=407114b1f505c1aa6660836a9b26aef7&p=2133173&viewfull=1#post2133173

EDIT:



So far same OC is holding with NO ECC, i set FSB to 40 instead of 38, it runs WAAYYY hotter, maybe volts are too high maybe i should leave VID on auto idk, i suck at OCing. i could barley get 700mhz out of my Q9550 and someone looked at my setting then we got a 1ghz over stock out of it.


----------



## cdoublejj

I wonder if any better CPUs that can still let me have 8gb of ram and still have 2x 1mb cache exist.


----------



## seaFs

Well, my 3GHz setup with HD4890 and Crucial M4 had had a score of
5.9
5.9
7.3
7.3
5.9
You are not far away from the max. Maybe you can break CPU score of 6.0 with 3.2GHz. But that must be a uber chip to be cooled on air.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder if any better CPUs that can still let me have 8gb of ram and still have 2x 1mb cache exist.


Maybe a FX-60 / X2 4800+?
The FX-60 is very hard to find tho.
I got one for 50€, but I was very lucky...


----------



## gapottberg

I had an Athlon X2 2.0GHz (stock) chip in a 939 board with 8GB (4x2) of DDR400 that handled Windows 7 and light gaming until the motherboard failed. Was a rebuild of my old original 939 winnie system i had laying around that i put together for my kid. I was suprised how well such an old platform held up. I think i only had a NV 7600GT in it at the time, but with a beefier GFX card i have no doubt it could have got some more life out of it.

Sadly replacing the board seemed more of a chore than it was worth so i sprung for an APU as his replacement.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> I wonder if any better CPUs that can still let me have 8gb of ram and still have 2x 1mb cache exist.


That should be about max. I'll run a pass on my machine (which is extremely familiar to seaFs, and we'll see whats up.


----------



## gasparspeed

I just rebuilt my 939 onto my homemade testbench and i'm testing some brand new Corsair XMS PRO RAM modules.
I miss the old days with this machine... Even with the integrated GeForce 6100 it can run Win Xp at 1280x1024 @ 75 Hz... Not too bad.
I'm running 3DMark01 SE right now










EDIT: Just got 3650 Marks!
My motherboard box says that with a 3000+ and 512MB of DDR400 CL2.5 ram you can get 5100 Marks... Lies

EDIT2: Also, my motherboard doesn't wants to run at DDR-400, it's set to 400 on BIOS but then on Windows i get 129 Mhz (DDR258).
Is there any way to make it run at 400 without having to OC the FSB?

EDIT3: Just changed Command Rate from 2T to 1T, got 4386 Marks


----------



## gapottberg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> I just rebuilt my 939 onto my homemade testbench and i'm testing some brand new Corsair XMS PRO RAM modules.
> I miss the old days with this machine... Even with the integrated GeForce 6100 it can run Win Xp at 1280x1024 @ 75 Hz... Not too bad.
> I'm running 3DMark01 SE right now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Just got 3650 Marks!
> My motherboard box says that with a 3000+ and 512MB of DDR400 CL2.5 ram you can get 5100 Marks... Lies
> 
> EDIT2: Also, my motherboard doesn't wants to run at DDR-400, it's set to 400 on BIOS but then on Windows i get 129 Mhz (DDR258).
> Is there any way to make it run at 400 without having to OC the FSB?
> 
> EDIT3: Just changed Command Rate from 2T to 1T, got 4386 Marks


With old 939 systems there was usually a BIOS menu that allowed you to change between rated speeds much like todays modern XMP settings. Some boards didn't have the feature. and would run the ram at whatever they recognized as best. A BIOS update sometimes fixed that problem either recognizing newer ram modules properly or adding the option to the BIOS. If that doesnt work an OC or new sticks may be the only way in your situation.

Good luck!


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gapottberg*
> 
> With old 939 systems there was usually a BIOS menu that allowed you to change between rated speeds much like todays modern XMP settings. Some boards didn't have the feature. and would run the ram at whatever they recognized as best. A BIOS update sometimes fixed that problem either recognizing newer ram modules properly or adding the option to the BIOS. If that doesnt work an OC or new sticks may be the only way in your situation.
> 
> Good luck!


Just fixed it. I just had to change the sticks from slots 3 and 4 to slots 1 and 2, and the thing fixed itself...
http://valid.x86.fr/kynnix
But thanks for the help anyways!


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> I just rebuilt my 939 onto my homemade testbench


Nicer than mine!


----------



## seaFs

Uuuuh, shiny. Samsung PATA HDDs







I got a SV1203N, 120GB, build date 2003. This one was in daily use (~4 hours per day) for almost 10 years with no erros


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> Nicer than mine!


Hahaha, well, mine is still in "beta". I still have to make a taller wood base to put in the PSU and HDDs.
I will post some pics when I finish it (can't do it now, because i'm going to travel during 1 month...).


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Nicer than mine!
Click to expand...


----------



## csarebel

my 939 3800+ is a media machine. running 4gb ddr400 cl3 (4x1gb mushkin as they have heatspreaders) and a radeon 4850. it runs win7 x86 fine for watching netflix/hulu on a 40" lcd.
the 4850 is overkill as the 3800+ cant use it to its full potential, but the plus side of that is the gpu runs cool. using a 500gb wd black sata drive which is also overkill as my board only does sata150 and the drive can do sata III. the reliability of wd blacks is worth it though. and the speed difference is noticeable vs say a good pata drive or an old sata 150 maxtor.


----------



## SwishaMane

Is it sad my hard disk is the highest rated device in my setup? LOL


----------



## seaFs

Well, I guess I need to do some CL2 testing


----------



## SwishaMane

Wheres my 16GB of DDR400 seaFs!?!?1?!?1? THOUGHT WE WAS GONNA DOOZ THIS!


----------



## seaFs

If you are capable of hacking bios memory setups, let me know








A8N32 does not boot up with Viking 4GB DIMMs.
I'm still looking for a cheap E6 Opteron. Maybe this solves the problem, though I'm not very confident.

[edit]
Found this short story.
https://community.amd.com/thread/142920
Dual Opty 290, Tyan server board, Viking 4GB 4Rx4 DIMMs. The DIMMs seem to work, the problem is the fully populated memory array. The latter is no problem, because we can get this stable with "DDR Clock Skew" and any other memory related setting. But how to boot it up at all on 939?


----------



## gasparspeed

I just went to a yardsale and bought a DFI (non LanParty!) Socket 939 board. And it came with a 3000+. Only 3€









EDIT: Looks that i can't upload pics with my phone. Later i will add some, i need to identify this motherboard... But it does look like nForce4 chipset, it's ATX size with 2 PCI-E x1, 1PCI-E x16 and 4 SATA Ports.
EDIT 2: Looks that i'm blind







it has a Little sticker that says NF4 Infinity. Looks like a nice board...
EDIT 3: Confirmed, i just bought a DFI NF4-Ultra Infinity for 3€! But i need another chipset retention tab...

Here i got a pic of the board:

I also bought a ABIT AS8 for 7€, it came also with a 3Ghz P4 Prescott and the Intel stock heatsink.
I love yardsales ^^


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> I just went to a yardsale and bought a DFI (non LanParty!) Socket 939 board. And it came with a 3000+. Only 3€
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Looks that i can't upload pics with my phone. Later i will add some, i need to identify this motherboard... But it does look like nForce4 chipset, it's ATX size with 2 PCI-E x1, 1PCI-E x16 and 4 SATA Ports.
> EDIT 2: Looks that i'm blind
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it has a Little sticker that says NF4 Infinity. Looks like a nice board...
> EDIT 3: Confirmed, i just bought a DFI NF4-Ultra Infinity for 3€! But i need another chipset retention tab...
> 
> Here i got a pic of the board:
> 
> I also bought a ABIT AS8 for 7€, it came also with a 3Ghz P4 Prescott and the Intel stock heatsink.
> I love yardsales ^^


Good board and yes it's an NF4 chipped board.
Only real prob it may have is it won't be able to handle heavy power demands of a dual core chip OC'ed, the power circuit to the CPU isn't that strong overall but it can handle a single core no prob.

Essentially that board is the 939 version of a NF4X Infinity of Socket 754 fame.
I'd love to have it to mess around with personally but I already have enough "Stuff" here.


----------



## gapottberg

I had a variation of that board once upon a time. I found replacing the chipset fan with a high end heat sink and thermal paste helped my OC alot as well as reducing the very loud and annoying fan whine it experienced under load. Good luck, ill be following this post to see how it turns out.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> Good board and yes it's an NF4 chipped board.
> Only real prob it may have is it won't be able to handle heavy power demands of a dual core chip OC'ed, the power circuit to the CPU isn't that strong overall but it can handle a single core no prob.
> 
> Essentially that board is the 939 version of a NF4X Infinity of Socket 754 fame.
> I'd love to have it to mess around with personally but I already have enough "Stuff" here.


Hm, so that means that it can't handle my FX-60 with a bit of OC?
My old Asrock 939NF4G-SATAII had worse power circuit AFAIK, and it could handle my FX-60 @ 2870Mhz (only during like 30 mins to bench a bit)
I thought i could reach like 2.9 or 3Ghz OC on my FX-60 and 2.2/2.4Ghz on the 3000+
Also, how can i replace the northbridge plastic clip thingy? It came with one of them, so the northbridge is barely making contact with the heatsink...
Maybe i can get one from an old GPU heatsink or something...


----------



## gapottberg

Buy an aftermatket hearsink for the NB. They will come with new push pins to secure it. You can buy low profile ones with fans or larger ones wich just require good case flow. Ill see if i can scrounge up a link to one.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gapottberg*
> 
> Buy an aftermatket hearsink for the NB. They will come with new push pins to secure it. You can buy low profile ones with fans or larger ones wich just require good case flow. Ill see if i can scrounge up a link to one.


Well, first i have to test it, to see if it works... But here i don't have any DDR Ram here, nor a dedicated GPU or a PSU to try it...
But yeah, i've seen those aftermarket northbridge heatsinks, i think i can get one for ~10€.
I can't wait to finish my holidays to do some benches on this motherboard!


----------



## FlawleZ

I'm thinking of grabbing an FX60 and trying for 3Ghz+. Still have a perfectly working DFI Lanparty NF4 SLI-D ?


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Hm, so that means that it can't handle my FX-60 with a bit of OC?
> My old Asrock 939NF4G-SATAII had worse power circuit AFAIK, and it could handle my FX-60 @ 2870Mhz (only during like 30 mins to bench a bit)
> I thought i could reach like 2.9 or 3Ghz OC on my FX-60 and 2.2/2.4Ghz on the 3000+
> Also, how can i replace the northbridge plastic clip thingy? It came with one of them, so the northbridge is barely making contact with the heatsink...
> Maybe i can get one from an old GPU heatsink or something...


It can handle it with a mild OC but under a medium to heavy load it would be bad for it.








That's a board good for a single core and it can certainly push one well enough. It simply isn't made the same as a LanParty would be since the Infinity line was more of a budget OC'ers lineup. I'd let it handle any single cores you have, it will serve you well in that capacity.


----------



## gapottberg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Well, first i have to test it, to see if it works... But here i don't have any DDR Ram here, nor a dedicated GPU or a PSU to try it...
> But yeah, i've seen those aftermarket northbridge heatsinks, i think i can get one for ~10€.
> I can't wait to finish my holidays to do some benches on this motherboard!


I have a fair amount of DDR3 400mhz sticks laying around. I think i have 1 kit of (2x512MB) 1GB Crucial Ballistix @ CAS 2, and two pairs of GSKILL (2x1GB) 2GB @ CAS 2.5 for a total of 4GB which maxes out most boards from that era. I was saving it for a rebuild of my old 939 system but i ended up giving up on finding a good board and sold the CPUS. I'd be willing to maybe let go of my ram if you cant find any. Shoot me a PM later for pictures of what i got if you are interested. I'd rather see it put in a nice system than rot in my junk drawer.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlawleZ*
> 
> I'm thinking of grabbing an FX60 and trying for 3Ghz+. Still have a perfectly working DFI Lanparty NF4 SLI-D ?


If you can get one cheap that could be a nice combo! I got mine from a local guy and only paid 50€, maybe you could fine one even cheaper.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> It can handle it with a mild OC but under a medium to heavy load it would be bad for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a board good for a single core and it can certainly push one well enough. It simply isn't made the same as a LanParty would be since the Infinity line was more of a budget OC'ers lineup. I'd let it handle any single cores you have, it will serve you well in that capacity.


Well, i've got my original Venice 3000+ and this other 3000+ that came with the motherboard (IDK if it's a Venice Core too). Also, one friend of mine has my X2 4200+, so i could ask him for his 3200+ too.
So i guess i have lots of options








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gapottberg*
> 
> I have a fair amount of DDR3 400mhz sticks laying around. I think i have 1 kit of (2x512MB) 1GB Crucial Ballistix @ CAS 2, and two pairs of GSKILL (2x1GB) 2GB @ CAS 2.5 for a total of 4GB which maxes out most boards from that era. I was saving it for a rebuild of my old 939 system but i ended up giving up on finding a good board and sold the CPUS. I'd be willing to maybe let go of my ram if you cant find any. Shoot me a PM later for pictures of what i got if you are interested. I'd rather see it put in a nice system than rot in my junk drawer.


I recently bought a brand new kit of 2x512MB of Corsair XMS PRO DDR400 RAM (runs at 2-2-2-5 1T perfectly) but obviusly it's only 1GB, all my other sets are those cheapo Value modules that you can find now at local shops...
So, I am very interested in new RAM modules, you got a PM


----------



## gapottberg

Here, might as well post these for the rest of you to see too. I was wrong btw...the 4GB of Gskill is cas 2, not 2.5...both sets are same model but newer heat spreaders on the later kit. I had the older kit in a workstation set up for my cousins Architecture business...upgraded to 4GB later on for a mid life upgrade, then had it in my sons Duel Core 939 system once I got all the old parts back after my cuz upgraded to newer setups. The Board was an ASUS A8NE which is similar to the one you have in the pics above. I could get all 4 DIMMS to run 4GB of this at cas 2 but only with 2T command rate. Ran Windows 7 and WoW pretty well till the board died.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> I just went to a yardsale and bought a DFI (non LanParty!) Socket 939 board. And it came with a 3000+. Only 3€
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Looks that i can't upload pics with my phone. Later i will add some, i need to identify this motherboard... But it does look like nForce4 chipset, it's ATX size with 2 PCI-E x1, 1PCI-E x16 and 4 SATA Ports.
> EDIT 2: Looks that i'm blind
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it has a Little sticker that says NF4 Infinity. Looks like a nice board...
> EDIT 3: Confirmed, i just bought a DFI NF4-Ultra Infinity for 3€! But i need another chipset retention tab...
> 
> Here i got a pic of the board:
> 
> I also bought a ABIT AS8 for 7€, it came also with a 3Ghz P4 Prescott and the Intel stock heatsink.
> I love yardsales ^^


That is a nice board, and anyone who says it cant handle a dual core is lying or has no clue... I had one, and my opty 180 was Oc'd to 2.9 stable. THATS a good board. Not CRAZY good, but nice for cheap. I may still have the original box and contents for the one I had if your interested.










EDIT: Yes, replace the NB heatsink / fan. It'll be a lifesaver for the board.


----------



## gapottberg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Yes, replace the NB heatsink / fan. It'll be a lifesaver for the board.


This is so important and related to why my board failed i believe. When i rebuilt it for my son as a duel core system, i didn't check the seating on the NB. After it died i took it out and looked it over, my thermal paste had hardened like a old stick of chewing gum and was no longer making good contact with the chip. i needed to replace the springs on the plastic push pins and reapply fresh thermal paste and i'm sure it would still be working today if i had....instead my chip fried.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> That is a nice board, and anyone who says it cant handle a dual core is lying or has no clue... I had one, and my opty 180 was Oc'd to 2.9 stable. THATS a good board. Not CRAZY good, but nice for cheap. I may still have the original box and contents for the one I had if your interested.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Yes, replace the NB heatsink / fan. It'll be a lifesaver for the board.


Thanks for that info! The original box or the I/O shield would be a very nice thing to have, but there's always the shipping problems... Shipping from the US to Spain is soooo expensive
I do hope it can handle my FX-60 and a bit of OC (because having a unlocked chip and run it at stock is boring







)
But, before buying a NB heatsink, i will have to ghetto-mod it with zip-ties or something to test if the board itself works (not gonna buy a new NB heatsink if the board is dead).
I really hope it's alive... Also, i'm on holidays right now till 30th August, so i will have to wait a bit to test if it does work...

Also, i will go back to that yardsale (they do one each Sunday) to see if there are any interesting stuff there...
Because last time when I bought the Abit AS8, I also saw some kind of Gigabyte Socket 939 Motherboard (it had the heatsink on, but i knew it was a 939 because it had 4 RAM Slots) IIRC a K8N-something. I dunno why i didn't took it...


----------



## cdoublejj

So the SSD is still working, still boots up much faster than HDD. She plays Sims 3 and 4 mostly right now, they run smoothly, i know bioshock 1 runs fine, would like to test other more 3d intense games at some point.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> That is a nice board, and anyone who says it cant handle a dual core is lying or has no clue... I had one, and my opty 180 was Oc'd to 2.9 stable. THATS a good board. Not CRAZY good, but nice for cheap. I may still have the original box and contents for the one I had if your interested.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Yes, replace the NB heatsink / fan. It'll be a lifesaver for the board.


Actually what you referred to is what I meant - They _can_ clock up a dual but I don't believe they will hold up as well as a LanParty based board will overall.
I still say I'd run something else for uber-clocks BUT woudn't mind having one anyway.

As for running a dual core where you had yours is OK, that's not really stressing it too much - It's when you take a DC chip and go for something like 3.3GHz or higher that could hurt it, the LanParty's have heatsinks on the VRMs for good reason. Yes you can add them to it and that would help but I don't believe it has I guess you could call it "The Guts" for screamingly heavy power demands for DC's running some crazy clocks.

You probrably know this already - I've had the heatsinks off of both Ultra D's and Experts, the Experts have 3, the Ultra D's have 2 MOSFETs for the CPU power circuit. I recently fixed an Ultra D with a blown MOSFET by robbing one from my dead Expert.
There is an obvious difference in how they are made and I don't see that one having a setup like an Expert or even an Ultra D at all.

BTW know getting those sinks off is a real PITA.









However for the price he paid, it's all good no matter what as long as it works at all.


----------



## cdoublejj

put heatsinks or bigger heat sinks on the MOSFETs/VRMs if possible.


----------



## seaFs

Swisha, we should do a comparison. Yur system DDR400 CL2 against my system DDR500 CL3, only CPU benches. AFAIR there were only benchmarks for Athlon64 single core at stock frequencies and DDR400 vs DDR500. Now we got highly overclocked X2s, that need a little more bandwidth. What do you think?


----------



## FlawleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Swisha, we should do a comparison. Yur system DDR400 CL2 against my system DDR500 CL3, only CPU benches. AFAIR there were only benchmarks for Athlon64 single core at stock frequencies and DDR400 vs DDR500. Now we got highly overclocked X2s, that need a little more bandwidth. What do you think?


Ideal would be DDR500 CL2. I has a couple sticks that will ?


----------



## gapottberg

I kick myself nearly everyday for giving up on my 939 and junking most of the parts. I should have kept them a bit longer. So hard to replace a motherboard these days though.


----------



## seaFs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlawleZ*
> 
> Ideal would be DDR500 CL2. I has a couple sticks that will ?


But not very useful these days, running only 2x512MB. Swisha and I got the setup with 8GB registered DDR and he scored higher at Windows 7 performance index with DDR400 CL2. I'm curious how other applications react.


----------



## FlawleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> But not very useful these days, running only 2x512MB. Swisha and I got the setup with 8GB registered DDR and he scored higher at Windows 7 performance index with DDR400 CL2. I'm curious how other applications react.


I have 2 x 1GB OCZ DDR500 sticks. I think either Gold or Bronze I'll have to check but they ran like a top CL2 @ 250 on the bus.


----------



## seaFs

Impressive. My OCZ Platinum EBs (two pairs of 2x1GB each) did just 235 CL2.5, everything above that was CL3. But it also depends on the memory controller. Maybe I have a bad CPU...


----------



## Kryton

I have a few sets that can go up there with some prodding - Definitely a set that tops 260MHz with CAS2 as shown in the screenie.











I was throwing some volts at these sticks ( OCZ Gold 2x512 / BH5 sticks), running them with at least 3.7v's to get them where you see them running.

Have a set or two that can hit DDR 600 and that's already been seen here before.
TCCD sticks though would be best if you can find a good set of these, no need to mega-volt them for some nice clocks like you have to with BH5 sticks.


----------



## FlawleZ

I'm going to break my s939 setup out soon just contemplating if I want to snag anything new on ebay. Have a 4000+ that will do ~3.2Ghz and a turd Opty 180 that tops out at 2860Mhz.


----------



## FlawleZ

Just scored an FX-60, Asus A8N32 SLI Deluxe, 4X1GB OCZ Platinum PC3200, and a Zalman 9500CNPS for $100 shipped to my door.


----------



## gapottberg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlawleZ*
> 
> Just scored an FX-60, Asus A8N32 SLI Deluxe, 4X1GB OCZ Platinum PC3200, and a Zalman 9500CNPS for $100 shipped to my door.


Words cannot descirbe how envious many of us are right now, or how we will never forgive you if you dont post pics and benchmarks for us to drool over soon.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlawleZ*
> 
> I have 2 x 1GB OCZ DDR500 sticks. I think either Gold or Bronze I'll have to check but they ran like a top CL2 @ 250 on the bus.


I got sticks that'll do well over 260 @ 1.5-2-2-5 1T


----------



## FlawleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> I got sticks that'll do well over 260 @ 1.5-2-2-5 1T


You don't count. If anyone has a pair that can do that it WOULD be you


----------



## FlawleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gapottberg*
> 
> Words cannot descirbe how envious many of us are right now, or how we will never forgive you if you dont post pics and benchmarks for us to drool over soon.


But of course! This is the very reason I purchased it!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221849593648?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## zila

Beautiful. Let us see what it can do. My 939 is coming out of moth balls soon too.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlawleZ*
> 
> You don't count. If anyone has a pair that can do that it WOULD be you


I believe my OCZ's can do it too...









I have a A8N32 SLI Deluxe myself I've owned since it was brandnew from the box - Good board but still not quite the same as an Ultra D I must say.
However it does seem to play really nice with RAM timings and speeds.

Ohhh.... You want pics?
Here's a shot with some of my DFI's in it, the majority of what I have are shown.


----------



## cssorkinman

I have a set of 256mb TCCD patriots that have hit 640 @ 2.5 cl, no hint of stability until they get back down to 610 or so. That was on an MSI K8 Neo 4. Still have yet to try the Lanparty that I bought a while back, getting lazy in my old age.


----------



## gapottberg

So pretty....awwww the memories. I loved those Asus 939 boards back in the day. Built many a rig with em. wish i had been more careful and not fried my NB chip due to poor thermal paste. ah well, live and learn.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I definitely regret selling my setup. Golden Opty 165 that pulled 3.15 stable with only 1.375v, 3GHz was stable at 1.32v (undervolted). 4x1GB of Corsair XMS DDR400 sticks that could do 500 no sweat at 2.5-3-2-5-1T (per 2GB kit), and was able to bench up to DDR580. All 4 sticks I could only ever get to about DDR466, 2.5-3-2-5-2T though. Asus A8N32-SLI Deluxe was my board of choice. Got that setup to get as high as 3.36 (HTT limited by the board) with DICE at only 1.45v set (auto).


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*


----------



## zila

Ohhh.... You want pics?
Here's a shot with some of my DFI's in it, the majority of what I have are shown.











They are just beautiful. I still have 3 LANPARTY UT nF4 Ultra-D, one LANPARTY UT nF4 SLI-D and one ASRock 939Dual-SATA2 and several 939 chips and ram to run in them.







This may be the year that I bring them back out and start running them again.


----------



## TheN00bBuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Ohhh.... You want pics?
> Here's a shot with some of my DFI's in it, the majority of what I have are shown.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are just beautiful. I still have 3 LANPARTY UT nF4 Ultra-D, one LANPARTY UT nF4 SLI-D and one ASRock 939Dual-SATA2 and several 939 chips and ram to run in them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This may be the year that I bring them back out and start running them again.


Nice setup! Just got my first Lanparty board, an NF4 Ultra D and I wonder if you or some of the other guys could help me.

I got it home, unpackaged it, set it up on my bench, and got ready for some overclocking. Nope. All it does is the 4 red LED error. I tried the fancy CMOS reset, the power/reset trick, tried booting with no CPU, RAM, or GPU, tried reseating all above, tried different RAM, RAM slots, etc, lots of stuff. Still nothing. Is it the CPU or the BIOS? I am having it checked by a local PC repair store but they charge a standard $49 bench fee. O_O, so if anyone can help me, I may have something for them
.


----------



## zila

Kryton has some beautiful boards there. I have a few too.

The 4 leds can be caused by a lot of things. A weak psu can do it or a bad connection somewhere. I would pull the board out of the case and put it on top of the motherboard box to make sure it's not shorting out on a motherboard stand off.

Try a cmos reset. Unplug the power supply from the wall outlet. Turn the psu switch to the off position, put the jumper to cmos clear and I remove the battery as well. Push the power button down to clear the capacitors.

Remove the processor and check the cpu socket. Make sure the pins are straight and re-seat. Go for a minimal install, just one stick of ram in the slot closest to the cpu. reseat the graphics card.

See if it will boot up after this.

I had a dead cpu do this to me once. I put in a new cpu and it booted up as normal. And I have also had a loose stick of ram cause this as well.


----------



## TheN00bBuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Kryton has some beautiful boards there. I have a few too.
> 
> The 4 leds can be caused by a lot of things. A weak psu can do it or a bad connection somewhere. I would pull the board out of the case and put it on top of the motherboard box to make sure it's not shorting out on a motherboard stand off.
> 
> Try a cmos reset. Unplug the power supply from the wall outlet. Turn the psu switch to the off position, put the jumper to cmos clear and I remove the battery as well. Push the power button down to clear the capacitors.
> 
> Remove the processor and check the cpu socket. Make sure the pins are straight and re-seat. Go for a minimal install, just one stick of ram in the slot closest to the cpu. reseat the graphics card.
> 
> See if it will boot up after this.
> 
> I had a dead cpu do this to me once. I put in a new cpu and it booted up as normal. And I have also had a loose stick of ram cause this as well.


I've done all that and still no dice. Any other tips? +Rep for helping anyways.


----------



## zila

Do you have all the power plugs plugged in to the board?

So, let me get this straight...........You've got the 4 leds of death. Lights are on, fans are spinning but no boot?


----------



## SwishaMane

Try a new CPU (super cheap single core off fleabay just to test) or a new BIOS chip.


----------



## TheN00bBuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Do you have all the power plugs plugged in to the board?
> 
> So, let me get this straight...........You've got the 4 leds of death. Lights are on, fans are spinning but no boot?


Yep, exactly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Try a new CPU (super cheap single core off fleabay just to test) or a new BIOS chip.


Thats what I think I need to do, but I don't want to wait. I think nearly 8 months of waiting to have one of these boards has made me angry, lol.


----------



## zila

You just have to be patient. These are old classic rigs now. My recommendation would be not to even try to overclock without having spare bios chips and duplicate hardware to keep everything going all the time. Which is why I have several 939 boards. I have several different bios chips available just in case. And they are already flashed with custom bios's for each board.

Yeah, you may have a bad processor or a corrupt bios. Only the process of elimination will tell.


----------



## TheN00bBuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> You just have to be patient. These are old classic rigs now. My recommendation would be not to even try to overclock without having spare bios chips and duplicate hardware to keep everything going all the time. Which is why I have several 939 boards. I have several different bios chips available just in case. And they are already flashed with custom bios's for each board.
> 
> Yeah, you may have a bad processor or a corrupt bios. Only the process of elimination will tell.


Thats what I think, too. Taking it to the shop tomorrow; they told me $30 to test it, plus I don't have to wait for shipping, and I also get to support a local business too. Win for everyone. Thanks for trying to help, though!


----------



## Kryton

Look it over and see if you may have any caps (Capacitors) with a swollen or bulged top.
If you see any at all with this, that could be the problem you have - I've fixed a few that had these and got them working again with similar symptoms to what you are describing.


----------



## TheN00bBuilder

Nope, no fried or bulged components. Just gonna buy a FX55 CPU and a new BIOS chip; one of those will fix it and I would need the CPU later anyways.


----------



## Kryton

I woudn't be so sure thats gonna fix it - You can get the 4 LEDS with a blown MOSFET or even a dead chipset.

I'd confirm the problem first before buying other stuff for it, then go from there.


----------



## TheN00bBuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> I woudn't be so sure thats gonna fix it - You can get the 4 LEDS with a blown MOSFET or even a dead chipset.
> 
> I'd confirm the problem first before buying other stuff for it, then go from there.


I don't see or smell any burnt MOSFETs and the chipset will heat up, so I am nearly 100% sure its the BIOS chip. If its not... looks like I'm stuck with a doorstop.


----------



## TheN00bBuilder

A-HA!!! I think I got it!!!

Saw the exact same board with the same CPU for sale and it was working. I looked at the BIOS chip and it had a green blob of paint on the BIOS chip, while mine has a blue blob. Also, the one on the Newegg stock page has a blue blob on it and I assume it was one of the first ones out of the factory. My CPU is only supported by the latest BIOS, so I think I can safely say it is the BIOS. I'll order an FX-55 (one my BIOS supports) tonight and then try to reflash the BIOS to avoid buying a new BIOS chip.

Some boards also have red BIOS chips, too.


----------



## zila

I've purchased boards with blown caps, fets burnt processors and corrupted bios's. I've managed to repair every one of them so far. Kryton has done the same thing many, many times. It's what we have to do if we're going to keep these old boards going. Sometimes things look much worse than they really are. I hope it's either a bad processor or a corrupted bios in your case. I'm keeping my fingers crossed for you.


----------



## TheN00bBuilder

And also.... floppy drive power? Should I have plugged that in?


----------



## TheN00bBuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> I've purchased boards with blown caps, fets burnt processors and corrupted bios's. I've managed to repair every one of them so far. Kryton has done the same thing many, many times. It's what we have to do if we're going to keep these old boards going. Sometimes things look much worse than they really are. I hope it's either a bad processor or a corrupted bios in your case. I'm keeping my fingers crossed for you.


And thanks! But, do you normally plug the floppy drive power into the board?


----------



## zila

Yup, you plug all of them in. But I know that's not your current problem.


----------



## TheN00bBuilder

Yeah, thats what I thought. Oh well. I'll just order MAYBE the FX CPU and see if it works. Thanks for the help, all!


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> A-HA!!! I think I got it!!!
> 
> Saw the exact same board with the same CPU for sale and it was working. I looked at the BIOS chip and it had a green blob of paint on the BIOS chip, while mine has a blue blob. Also, the one on the Newegg stock page has a blue blob on it and I assume it was one of the first ones out of the factory. My CPU is only supported by the latest BIOS, so I think I can safely say it is the BIOS. I'll order an FX-55 (one my BIOS supports) tonight and then try to reflash the BIOS to avoid buying a new BIOS chip.
> 
> Some boards also have red BIOS chips, too.


That doesn't mean crap.









You can get 4 LED's with as little as a bad cooler mount or a PSU that the board doesn't like. It's a very generic code.
4 LED's of death is an exaggerated term. It always was.

Have you cleared the CMOS the proper DFI way?
Quote:


> The proper Clear CMOS recovery. Not to be confused with a Normal CMOS Clear.
> 
> You can not use a USB keyboard for this procedure. You must use a PS2 keyboard.
> 
> You will need your manual to find the jumpers that must be changed.
> 
> If you skip or miss any step you must start again since the results will not be valid.
> Remove power from the rig by pulling the plug or switching the PSU off.
> 
> Move the PC Speaker jumper to the ON position.
> 
> Remove the Battery.
> 
> Move the CMOS jumper to CLEAR.
> 
> Press the Start Button on the case or motherboard to drain the capacitors.
> 
> You may leave the board in this condition for as long as it takes to clear the CMOS. If a short 30 second clear or a 15 minute clear doesn't work, try an 8 hour clear.
> 
> Plug in a PS2 Keyboard.
> 
> Put one stick of RAM in the slot marked DIMM2.
> 
> Move the CMOS jumper to Normal.
> 
> Replace the Battery.
> 
> Press and hold the Insert Key on the Keyboard.
> 
> Apply power to the rig by plugging the power in or using the switch on the PSU.
> 
> Press the Start Button to power the rig up.
> 
> When you hear the BEEP, release the Insert Key and press the Delete Key on the Keyboard.
> 
> Once you enter the BIOS set the DATE and TIME then Load Optimized Defaults.
> 
> Save and Exit.
> 
> Enter the BIOS again and set it up the way you want for your particular rig.


----------



## TheN00bBuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> That doesn't mean crap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can get 4 LED's with as little as a bad cooler mount or a PSU that the board doesn't like. It's a very generic code.
> 4 LED's of death is an exaggerated term. It always was.
> 
> Have you cleared the CMOS the proper DFI way?


MANY MANY times, lol. I've tried without cooler, without CPU, 2 different PSUs, etc.


----------



## TheN00bBuilder

Good news; a guy in a Facebook PC group has an Ultra-D like I have, except the chipset died as far as we know, and he is willing to remove it and send it to me for free! Happy days.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheN00bBuilder*
> 
> Good news; a guy in a Facebook PC group has an Ultra-D like I have, except the chipset died as far as we know, and he is willing to remove it and send it to me for free! Happy days.


Remove what?


----------



## ShrimpBrime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Remove what?


remove it from inventory and send dude a board with a dead chipset and bios chip.

Could always go to Biosdepot and have a bios chip sent with desired bios flash.


----------



## zila

^^^^^^This. Using one dead board to fix another dead board may be an exercise in futility. Just get a pre-programmed bios chip and see if that wakes up the board.

But, on the other hand since you are being sent a free dead board, if it has the same problem and you buy a new bios chip you might be able to wake up both boards.

To me this is just fun trying to bring back a dead board. Sometimes it works, sometimes not.


----------



## TriWheel

Can power delivery mosfets be replaced?

A tree fell on a line, the power cycled wildly before I could shut things down, and a Taiwanese CFX3200-DR died.

Is this thing worth keeping for a future repair?


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TriWheel*
> 
> Can power delivery mosfets be replaced?


Yes. That may not be the only problem though.

IMO, not worth repairing.


----------



## TheN00bBuilder

Sorry, meant the BIOS chip. Yeah, he pulled it out and is shipping it to me on Monday. I am cheap, so.... yeah.


----------



## zila

LMAO, I understand. So am I. I hope the bios chip is okay and solves your problem.


----------



## TheN00bBuilder

Me too, thanks!


----------



## Herm

Hello,

I may share some information on this, as 16 Gb on the A8N32-SLI Deluxe is really possible...



From the AMD datasheet 26094.pdf found in this thread, and some research on PC3200 registered DIMMs, I've come across these Samsung DDR memory DIMMs, M312L5128AU1-CCC that have the exact same internal addressing as permitted by the datasheet...

Bought 4 of them on ebay ([ad] : http://www.ebay.com/itm/121636671881 [/ad]), some BIOS tweaks, a new win XP32 patch, and :



Without BIOS alteration, 1x 4Gb or 2x 4Gb in single channel mode (each chip on a different colour slot) is possible.

At 3x DIMMs, no boot. Unsupported configuration.

To run 2x DIMMS in dual channel mode, and reach 4x DIMMs, it is required to enter the Advanced tab in BIOS menu, then Jumperfree configuration, and change the AI Overclocking item.
- Auto & Standard : No boot.
- Manual (200 MHz), Overclock profile (tested 1% to 5%), AI NOS (tested 1 - 8%) : Boot successfull.



Unfortunately, at each BIOS reset, Auto is the default selection... It is required to remove 2 DIMMs to enter setup to fix this item !

Also, even if the 4 DIMMs received were error-free (Memtest86+ ECC disabled), when the 4 DIMMs are populated, erratics 1bit errors shows in the 7th Memtest check "Block moves". Limit the DRAM speed below 183MHz, or voltage increase up to 2.7v don't cure the problem. ECC activated is able to correct this, though.



Btw, who said Registed DIMMs were slow ? These beasts can run at 1T command rate, and a nice 2600 Mb/s benchmarcked by Memtest at default SPD timings ! ECC enabled doesn't seems to slow this score...

Even at that speed, 2 hours and a half to run a full memtest, I won't do it so often !

Some CPUz pictures :





In the hope it will be usefull,

Herm


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Herm*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I may share some information on this, as 16 Gb on the A8N32-SLI Deluxe is really possible...
> 
> 
> 
> From the AMD datasheet 26094.pdf found in this thread, and some research on PC3200 registered DIMMs, I've come across these Samsung DDR memory DIMMs, M312L5128AU1-CCC that have the exact same internal addressing as permitted by the datasheet...
> 
> Bought 4 of them on ebay ([ad] : http://www.ebay.com/itm/121636671881 [/ad]), some BIOS tweaks, a new win XP32 patch, and :
> 
> 
> 
> Without BIOS alteration, 1x 4Gb or 2x 4Gb in single channel mode (each chip on a different colour slot) is possible.
> 
> At 3x DIMMs, no boot. Unsupported configuration.
> 
> To run 2x DIMMS in dual channel mode, and reach 4x DIMMs, it is required to enter the Advanced tab in BIOS menu, then Jumperfree configuration, and change the AI Overclocking item.
> - Auto & Standard : No boot.
> - Manual (200 MHz), Overclock profile (tested 1% to 5%), AI NOS (tested 1 - 8%) : Boot successfull.
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, at each BIOS reset, Auto is the default selection... It is required to remove 2 DIMMs to enter setup to fix this item !
> 
> Also, even if the 4 DIMMs received were error-free (Memtest86+ ECC disabled), when the 4 DIMMs are populated, erratics 1bit errors shows in the 7th Memtest check "Block moves". Limit the DRAM speed below 183MHz, or voltage increase up to 2.7v don't cure the problem. ECC activated is able to correct this, though.
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, who said Registed DIMMs were slow ? These beasts can run at 1T command rate, and a nice 2600 Mb/s benchmarcked by Memtest at default SPD timings ! ECC enabled doesn't seems to slow this score...
> 
> Even at that speed, 2 hours and a half to run a full memtest, I won't do it so often !
> 
> Some CPUz pictures :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the hope it will be usefull,
> 
> Herm


Wow. That is excelent news! 16GB on a Socket 939!
And timings aren't bad at all. I used to hace 4GB DDR-333 @ 3-4-4-8. But 16GB DDR-400 3-3-3-8 is impressive!
That paired with a OC'ed FX-60/X2 and a good GPU and that could be a super retro gaming rig!


----------



## gapottberg

While i think this is really cool its not going to improve retro gaming performance at all. There are no games that single handedly use up 8GB of system memory. Even if you ran a ton of background apps you would likely not even hit 8GB total with most modern games let alone retro ones. Furthermore, running multiple applications would put serious stress on the limited performance you are already trying to squeeze out of a decade old CPU platform and the sheer number of things you would have to run to need more than 8GB would be ludicrous in most cases.

No, other than for content creation or workstation applications 16GB is gonna be overkill for any reasonable 939 set up...don't get me wrong, very cool someone managed to do it, most impressive







...but practically speaking it means nothing in terms of practical performance for most users.

My question is it appears you are using a 32bit windows XP OS, which to my knowledge is capped at 4GB/3.5GB of total memory available due to the limitations of 32bit code. Maybe you have a patch or mod or something to make it work?


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gapottberg*
> 
> While i think this is really cool its not going to improve retro gaming performance at all. There are no games that single handedly use up 8GB of system memory. Even if you ran a ton of background apps you would likely not even hit 8GB total with most modern games let alone retro ones. Furthermore, running multiple applications would put serious stress on the limited performance you are already trying to squeeze out of a decade old CPU platform and the sheer number of things you would have to run to need more than 8GB would be ludicrous in most cases.
> 
> No, other than for content creation or workstation applications 16GB is gonna be overkill for any reasonable 939 set up...don't get me wrong, very cool someone managed to do it, most impressive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...but practically speaking it means nothing in terms of practical performance for most users.
> 
> My question is it appears you are using a 32bit windows XP OS, which to my knowledge is capped at 4GB/3.5GB of total memory available due to the limitations of 32bit code. Maybe you have a patch or mod or something to make it work?


He patched WinXP
Quote:


> a new win XP32 patch


About 16Gb, maybe it doesn't improves gaming, but at least now i can open tons of Google Chrome tabs without problems...
Also, with 8/16GBs can you use Windows 7? I used to run Windows 7 with 4GB of RAM on my 939 and RAM usage with games usually went up to 3.2ish GBs


----------



## FlawleZ

Anndd this just arrived today. So stoked! Who would have thought someone could get so excited about old computer parts lol


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Herm*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I may share some information on this, as 16 Gb on the A8N32-SLI Deluxe is really possible...
> 
> 
> 
> From the AMD datasheet 26094.pdf found in this thread, and some research on PC3200 registered DIMMs, I've come across these Samsung DDR memory DIMMs, M312L5128AU1-CCC that have the exact same internal addressing as permitted by the datasheet...
> 
> Bought 4 of them on ebay ([ad] : http://www.ebay.com/itm/121636671881 [/ad]), some BIOS tweaks, a new win XP32 patch, and :
> 
> 
> 
> Without BIOS alteration, 1x 4Gb or 2x 4Gb in single channel mode (each chip on a different colour slot) is possible.
> 
> At 3x DIMMs, no boot. Unsupported configuration.
> 
> To run 2x DIMMS in dual channel mode, and reach 4x DIMMs, it is required to enter the Advanced tab in BIOS menu, then Jumperfree configuration, and change the AI Overclocking item.
> - Auto & Standard : No boot.
> - Manual (200 MHz), Overclock profile (tested 1% to 5%), AI NOS (tested 1 - 8%) : Boot successfull.
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, at each BIOS reset, Auto is the default selection... It is required to remove 2 DIMMs to enter setup to fix this item !
> 
> Also, even if the 4 DIMMs received were error-free (Memtest86+ ECC disabled), when the 4 DIMMs are populated, erratics 1bit errors shows in the 7th Memtest check "Block moves". Limit the DRAM speed below 183MHz, or voltage increase up to 2.7v don't cure the problem. ECC activated is able to correct this, though.
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, who said Registed DIMMs were slow ? These beasts can run at 1T command rate, and a nice 2600 Mb/s benchmarcked by Memtest at default SPD timings ! ECC enabled doesn't seems to slow this score...
> 
> Even at that speed, 2 hours and a half to run a full memtest, I won't do it so often !
> 
> Some CPUz pictures :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the hope it will be usefull,
> 
> Herm


I notice that your FX60 is an engineering sample. Could this be contributing to your ability to get 16 gig running? It's not exactly a common processor.


----------



## gapottberg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlawleZ*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anndd this just arrived today. So stoked! Who would have thought someone could get so excited about old computer parts lol


Beautiful. Looks amazing. Hope you have fun with it man.


----------



## FlawleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gapottberg*
> 
> Beautiful. Looks amazing. Hope you have fun with it man.


Thanks man! I'm looking forward to it. Hope to get it together this evening.


----------



## FlawleZ

Well everything seems to work so happy about that. However, I'm quite disappointed with the A8n32 SLI Deluxe. There's no setting to change the CPU multiplier OR ram dividers.  Good thing I still have my DFI board for actual overclocking lol.


----------



## gapottberg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlawleZ*
> 
> Well everything seems to work so happy about that. However, I'm quite disappointed with the A8n32 SLI Deluxe. There's no setting to change the CPU multiplier OR ram dividers.  Good thing I still have my DFI board for actual overclocking lol.


No overclocking features? You have got to be kidding me! Have you updated to the latest BIOS yet? I am almost certain i have OCed with a board by ASUS that wasn't even close to as high in quality to that thing. I am dumbfounded. Ah well, i guess if it all works that's a good thing at least.


----------



## FlawleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gapottberg*
> 
> No overclocking features? You have got to be kidding me! Have you updated to the latest BIOS yet? I am almost certain i have OCed with a board by ASUS that wasn't even close to as high in quality to that thing. I am dumbfounded. Ah well, i guess if it all works that's a good thing at least.


Needed BIOS update. Also the multiplier and vcore adjustment has to be toggled on under the fid option at the bottom. Not very intuitive.


----------



## gapottberg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlawleZ*
> 
> Needed BIOS update. Also the multiplier and vcore adjustment has to be toggled on under the fid option at the bottom. Not very intuitive.


Most excellent! Time to play my friend...time to play.


----------



## Herm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gapottberg*
> 
> While i think this is really cool its not going to improve retro gaming performance at all. There are no games that single handedly use up 8GB of system memory. Even if you ran a ton of background apps you would likely not even hit 8GB total with most modern games let alone retro ones. Furthermore, running multiple applications would put serious stress on the limited performance you are already trying to squeeze out of a decade old CPU platform and the sheer number of things you would have to run to need more than 8GB would be ludicrous in most cases.
> 
> No, other than for content creation or workstation applications 16GB is gonna be overkill for any reasonable 939 set up...don't get me wrong, very cool someone managed to do it, most impressive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...but practically speaking it means nothing in terms of practical performance for most users.
> 
> My question is it appears you are using a 32bit windows XP OS, which to my knowledge is capped at 4GB/3.5GB of total memory available due to the limitations of 32bit code. Maybe you have a patch or mod or something to make it work?


Hi gapottberg,

Using a 32bit OS with PAE really enabled - as it was for windows XP at its release and at SP1 times - still limit each process with a 4 Gb address space, where 2 Gb is really usable by default (see the /3Gb & /userva boot.ini switches). From the times of the Pentium Pro, real ram access is virtualised, and nowadays, in 32 bit "protected" mode, ram descriptors used by the CPU really have 36 bits. A process can only have a 4 Gb address space (2^32), but that can be anywhere in a 64 Gb real address space (2^36)...

I used a patch to unlock XP memory manager in the kernel, fix a bug found in the hardware abstaction layer (hal.dll) that assumed that DMA transferts could never be done above 4Gb (hardware limit), and replace some files of the USB driver from Windows Server 2003 (a close one of Win XP with official >4Gb support) to correct the same assumptions. Many many thanks to those who made this possible !

The nVidia SATA/PATA driver won't work, probably from the same problem, but microsoft default driver works, and the Silicon Image SIL3132 integrated driver seemingly also (not much tested).

No problem either with the different Catalyst driver I've used for my Radeon video card.

You're quite right in the fact that nearly no game will take a great boost on this configuration from itself, ... with the exception of some MMO RPG games that use huge maps, tons of textures, and for these one it speed up changing maps when everything have already loaded at least once in RAM (I like to spend time on Guild wars 2 to cool down from work ^^ ). XP tend to use free RAM as a big HD cache. I may also upgrade to some SSD drive sometimes, it will surely better than the old 40Gb Parrallel ATA I've dedicated to that game !

Another use is hosting a ramdrive with a nice enough size. I've startup & shutdown scripts that allow me to host firefox profile files, an antivirus (immunet) and some utilities directly on the ramdrive. Printer spool, temp directories are all hosted on that ramdrive of course. (I had crash with GW2 before this ram upgrade with temp directory on a only 512 Mb crowed ramdrive before... Now, with 4Gb, it should be ok !)

Well, price was quite affordable, I had to test !


----------



## zila

Excellent. Now take her up!









I'm going to be lapping my Opty 180 and my Big Typhoon tonight. Dusting off one of my Ultra-D's too. They will be coming out to play this Fall.


----------



## Herm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> I notice that your FX60 is an engineering sample. Could this be contributing to your ability to get 16 gig running? It's not exactly a common processor.


Hi Mr.Scott,

Got that CPU also on ebay, I don't know its background







... Its CPU-Z id seems to match what is listed in the cpu-world website for a 'normal' FX-60 CPU...
How can I see if it's an engineering sample ?


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Herm*
> 
> Hi Mr.Scott,
> 
> Got that CPU also on ebay, I don't know its background
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... Its CPU-Z id seems to match what is listed in the cpu-world website for a 'normal' FX-60 CPU...
> How can I see if it's an engineering sample ?


My bad. I was looking at Flawlez's picture and thought it was your's. "Not for Sale" is printed right on the IHS.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlawleZ*
> 
> Well everything seems to work so happy about that. However, I'm quite disappointed with the A8n32 SLI Deluxe. There's no setting to change the CPU multiplier OR ram dividers.  Good thing I still have my DFI board for actual overclocking lol.


Huh.

Mine has all that in it but setting the RAM dividers is not an exact science since the board does what IT wants to there.
I guess you could try a different CPU and see if the options appear, it should have them.


----------



## FlawleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> Huh.
> 
> Mine has all that in it but setting the RAM dividers is not an exact science since the board does what IT wants to there.
> I guess you could try a different CPU and see if the options appear, it should have them.


No I figured it all out this BIOS is just odd compared to my DFI board. I messed with things a bit tonight and the board seems to be limiting me. There's a large amount of vdroop present, something like about .3-.4 under load in Windows. I also seem to be power limited on this board as well. Was doing some SP1 runs at 2.9Ghz but can't get 3Ghz to boot to Windows. Don't think its the CPU because the increased vcore also keeps 2.9Ghz from booting into Windows. I feel like my DFI LanParty SLI-D has a better power phase than the A8N32 SLI Deluxe. Here's a slow teaser run with what was running tonight:



That 1.456v would drop to about 1.424-1.402 under load. I swapped power supplies which helped a little, but it still dropped from 1.456 to 1.424 each time. Can only imagine whats happening before Windows loads.


----------



## FlawleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> My bad. I was looking at Flawlez's picture and thought it was your's. "Not for Sale" is printed right on the IHS.


Well I kind of thought it was an ES sample at first too when I received it in the mail, but the datacode and part numbers match CPU-World as a normal CPU. It does list it as OEM which is probably why it has the Not For Sale label.


----------



## FlawleZ

Ok after reading a bit more on this board I'm gonna give it another chance this evening. I read where you have to enable the CPU overvoltage to enable the 8 phase power. Kind of odd but I haven't done that yet which is probably what's been limiting me.


----------



## seaFs

No, 8-phase power doesn't improve much, if anything at all. The bad thing about the board is the limited CPU voltage it can supply. Rev E6 chips are capped at 1.5V or 1.6V. Not a single bit more. A Winni can be pushed up to 1.75V with no problem. Even an SLI DR with 4 phases can supply lots of amperes, although I've heard the the DFI boards need more volts to clock a chip compared to other vendors.


----------



## FlawleZ

Well sadly it seems this FX-60 is a dud. Refuses to even make it into Windows any higher than 2940Mhz, regardless of voltage. Currently on air does anyone know if I put it on water if the lower temps will bring more stability like K10?


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlawleZ*
> 
> Well I kind of thought it was an ES sample at first too when I received it in the mail, but the datacode and part numbers match CPU-World as a normal CPU. It does list it as OEM which is probably why it has the Not For Sale label.


OEM and retail are identical. Not for sale on AMD is the same as Confidential on Intel. They are engineering samples.
BTW, your FX60 is clocking about normal. 3 gig or better was tough to get to on air. You'll need to be roughly 1.65v or better.


----------



## StormX2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlawleZ*
> 
> Well sadly it seems this FX-60 is a dud. Refuses to even make it into Windows any higher than 2940Mhz, regardless of voltage. Currently on air does anyone know if I put it on water if the lower temps will bring more stability like K10?


what multi are you running x FSB ?


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> although I've heard the the DFI boards need more volts to clock a chip compared to other vendors.


Myth.


----------



## StormX2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Myth.


my dfi was pulling 312 FSB I think it was with stock volts


----------



## FlawleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> OEM and retail are identical. Not for sale on AMD is the same as Confidential on Intel. They are engineering samples.
> BTW, your FX60 is clocking about normal. 3 gig or better was tough to get to on air. You'll need to be roughly 1.65v or better.


Ok, I have a brand new H80i I can slap on. I tried up to 1.57V on air but didn't want to chance any higher and I also didn't think it would need closer to 1.6v. Would get just after Windows logo and BSOD which is typical of not enough voltage. This is on my DFI board btw, my Asus couldn't even get this far.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> what multi are you running x FSB ?


Various. I tried x10, x12, x15, etc. For a target 3ghz


----------



## StormX2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlawleZ*
> 
> Ok, I have a brand new H80i I can slap on. I tried up to 1.57V on air but didn't want to chance any higher and I also didn't think it would need closer to 1.6v. Would get just after Windows logo and BSOD which is typical of not enough voltage. This is on my DFI board btw, my Asus couldn't even get this far.
> Various. I tried x10, x12, x15, etc. For a target 3ghz


but whats your max FSB on teh board?


----------



## FlawleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> but whats your max FSB on teh board?


On my SLI-D? It's been a long while since I tried but I believe I've had it up to 333Mhz before.


----------



## StormX2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlawleZ*
> 
> On my SLI-D? It's been a long while since I tried but I believe I've had it up to 333Mhz before.


try playing with different Multi as well. You may not be able to do it, but thats still considered a good OC for that chip.

you want anything better you would need to jump over to Opteron


----------



## Oj010

Mr. Scott







I haven't seen you for a while









I just found this thread and I thought I'd dump my best accomplishment on my favourite platform over here:



Socket 939 for life









I may as well add some RAM scores









2x256MB Kingston HyperX BH-5 @ 290MHz 2-2-2-5 3.94v
2x256MB G.Skill TCCD @ 350MHz 3-4-4-8 3.1v

I seriously spent WAY too much of my life playing around on Socket 939 and loved every second.


----------



## FlawleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> try playing with different Multi as well. You may not be able to do it, but thats still considered a good OC for that chip.
> 
> you want anything better you would need to jump over to Opteron


Yeah I have an Opteron and it's even worse than this FX-60.

Oj010,

those are some sick results! Was that phase, DICE or LN2?
I'm just rolling air so far but I have a simple water kit I'm tempted to try on this thing.


----------



## StormX2

wow thats a crazy OC lol

deffffffinitely not Air cooling


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> Mr. Scott
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't seen you for a while
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just found this thread and I thought I'd dump my best accomplishment on my favourite platform over here:
> 
> 
> 
> Socket 939 for life
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may as well add some RAM scores
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2x256MB Kingston HyperX BH-5 @ 290MHz 2-2-2-5 3.94v
> 2x256MB G.Skill TCCD @ 350MHz 3-4-4-8 3.1v
> 
> I seriously spent WAY too much of my life playing around on Socket 939 and loved every second.


Nice!








The 165 I have does well on it's own on water. Haven't tried freezing it yet to see if it may go a little higher without the CB/CBB kicking in but could be a mute point since it's a 165 - Would need a board capable of some insane FSB to stretch it out. I mean if this chip was even a 170 instead of a 165 it could possibly make it without the need of an Uber-clocking board. Still I'm not complaining over it, it's a nice one that clocks up well and maybe with proper care it'll keep doing it's thing for sometime to come.

I'll have to try it and see if it can be frozen for kicks one day.


----------



## StormX2

=(

ive never had the luxury to clock my 165 on anything but the stock air cooler (which we all know, is one of the best ones) but reallllllly doesnt like more volts haha


----------



## Kryton

This one HATES voltage yet clocks up.
If I even go for 1.6v's it acts up and most of the time refuses to run. Maybe freezing it is what it needs to GO, I do know temps with it remain rather low while benching it.


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlawleZ*
> 
> Yeah I have an Opteron and it's even worse than this FX-60.
> 
> Oj010,
> 
> those are some sick results! Was that phase, DICE or LN2?
> I'm just rolling air so far but I have a simple water kit I'm tempted to try on this thing.


Thanks







It was LN2 at around -40'c, I went all the way down to around -170'c which gave me about 3940 MHz but the validation was corrupt. I'm happy with the 3.916 GHz though


----------



## TheN00bBuilder

Good/bad news! Good news; the BIOS chip arrived. Bad news; board still shows 4 lights. Then it HAS HAS HAS to be the CPU! So, what do you guys clock with? Opteron 165 seems to be popular around here. And because it seems to be so cheap, I'll buy a cheap 80MM tower cooler and a Delta server fan (high pressure of course) for overclocking. Sound like a good plan?


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> Mr. Scott
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't seen you for a while


Hey Jonathon. Long time it has been.


----------



## StormX2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheN00bBuilder*
> 
> Good/bad news! Good news; the BIOS chip arrived. Bad news; board still shows 4 lights. Then it HAS HAS HAS to be the CPU! So, what do you guys clock with? Opteron 165 seems to be popular around here. And because it seems to be so cheap, I'll buy a cheap 80MM tower cooler and a Delta server fan (high pressure of course) for overclocking. Sound like a good plan?


yah man give it a go ;p

with good cooling u should be able ot have fun


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheN00bBuilder*
> 
> Good/bad news! Good news; the BIOS chip arrived. Bad news; board still shows 4 lights. Then it HAS HAS HAS to be the CPU! So, what do you guys clock with? Opteron 165 seems to be popular around here. And because it seems to be so cheap, I'll buy a cheap 80MM tower cooler and a Delta server fan (high pressure of course) for overclocking. Sound like a good plan?


It has to be, these boards don't die. I've "killed" several, each time I put them aside for a few weeks and they spring back to life







One is REALLY worse for wear, it's got dead RAM slots, dead USB ports, dead sound, dead LAN, dead SATA ports... Yet it's definitely the best board I've got, it can push a bit further than any of the others.


----------



## toughacton

It is possible for the NF4 chipset to die (especially from overheating/overvolting). I have a sli-dr board that I have done everything with (6 cpus, 5 sets of working ram, 4 psus, 4 gpus, new cmos battery, working BIOS from my other working SLI-dr) The only thing left is the board itself/chipset. Its sad because the board itself looks much nicer and the caps are in better shape than the one that i can get to work,
Just food for thought before buying a new CPU, N00bBuilder.


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> It is possible for the NF4 chipset to die (especially from overheating/overvolting). I have a sli-dr board that I have done everything with (6 cpus, 5 sets of working ram, 4 psus, 4 gpus, new cmos battery, working BIOS from my other working SLI-dr) The only thing left is the board itself/chipset. Its sad because the board itself looks much nicer and the caps are in better shape than the one that i can get to work,
> Just food for thought before buying a new CPU, N00bBuilder.


Put it in a cupboard for a month, you might find it runs for another ten years after that







No jokes, I've had the exact same thing on an Ultra-D. Swapped multiple CPUs including A64s, Opterons and FXs, sticks of RAM covering BH-5 and TCCD (I don't have anything else), power supplies from FSP 700w to Corsair 1050w, graphics cards from HD 2900 XTs to 8800s, BIOS from a working board... I was certain the board was dead, I dumped it in a cupboard and forgot about it for a while. About a month later I thought I'd give it one more try and it started straight up. I can't explain it, it defies logic.

Then again, computers often defy logic. I accidentally brought dead RAM back to life by shoving it in a freezer for 24 hours







http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?205009-Attention-Dead-Micron-D9-Owners

That RAM was still working when I last used it in 2012. I know for absolute sure that they were dead before they went into the freezer as I'd spend several hours trying to get them to boot on various motherboards before resigning to the fact that I'd actually killed some bloody awesome RAM.

I seem to recall Mr Scott being rather annoyed at me for my behaviour back then, what can I say - I was a bit of a [insert bad word of choice] in my late teens/very very early 20s


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> I seem to recall Mr Scott being rather annoyed at me for my behaviour back then, what can I say - I was a bit of a [insert bad word of choice] in my late teens/very very early 20s


I wasn't any better at twice your age.








We got by that. Now everything is hunky dory.
Making a return to OC?


----------



## StormX2

a return? hes only been on OCN since a few months ago


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> a return? hes only been on OCN since a few months ago


You misunderstood.
OC = OverClocking
Jon has been out of the OC loop for a while now, as far as competitive benching goes. He was very good.
I was wondering if he was considering a comeback.


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> I wasn't any better at twice your age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We got by that. Now everything is hunky dory.
> Making a return to OC?


It's an idea I've toyed with, but I'm honestly not sure. For one, the game has evolved at a much faster rate than I have. I'm also pursuing various other interests, such as photography. As well as being a money pit, these things also take a good part of my free time. I'm also at a point in my life where I'm getting some direction, at 18 I had no idea what I wanted from life or to do with my life so instead of making a lifelong decision I put it on hold and just lived for a bit until I was old (mature) enough to know which way I want to go.

Oh, and I'm engaged (if by some weird chance my fiance reads the order in which I've listed these points I don't think she'll be my fiance anymore







).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> a return? hes only been on OCN since a few months ago


A return to overclocking. I was active back in the day where you could only really share your results on forums, later on ripping.org (does anyone remember that?) and then in the very early days of HWBOT. I remember listing results in certain threads on forums which were scanned by HWBOT and the results automatically added to the database - man how things have changed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> You misunderstood.
> OC = OverClocking
> Jon has been out of the OC loop for a while now, as far as competitive benching goes. He was very good.
> I was wondering if he was considering a comeback.


As Mr.Scott said, I was pretty heavy into overclocking a while ago. Make that a long time ago, time flies. It's been around half a decade since I stopped overclocking competitively. It would take a lot of time and money to get anywhere near the level I was back then. I still play around with LN2 a few times per year, but to be competitive again... I really don't know. Maybe one day in the future, who know?


----------



## StormX2

i gotchu, wasnt sure if you like used to have an older account ere or something lol

I feel you though, ive not done jack in regards to overclocking, probobly since i moved to the i7, overclocking makes little to no sense anymore to me, and I was just too afraid id blow soemthing up...

Not the same as it was in the good old days


----------



## Oj010

Oh and PRICES. For $1000 you could buy a DFI NF4, an Opteron 144, 2x512MB BH-5 and a GeForce 7900 GT. A heavy overclock on the CPU and GPU and you'd dominate 99% of the market. Now you need a $400 motherboard, $1000 CPU, $300 RAM, at least two $700 graphics cards and a $300 PSU.


----------



## TheN00bBuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> Oh and PRICES. For $1000 you could buy a DFI NF4, an Opteron 144, 2x512MB BH-5 and a GeForce 7900 GT. A heavy overclock on the CPU and GPU and you'd dominate 99% of the market. Now you need a $400 motherboard, $1000 CPU, $300 RAM, at least two $700 graphics cards and a $300 PSU.


Huh. Is this a good setup for OC'ing today?


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheN00bBuilder*
> 
> Huh. Is this a good setup for OC'ing today?


I don't understand your question


----------



## FlawleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> i gotchu, wasnt sure if you like used to have an older account ere or something lol
> 
> I feel you though, ive not done jack in regards to overclocking, probobly since i moved to the i7, overclocking makes little to no sense anymore to me, and I was just too afraid id blow soemthing up...
> 
> Not the same as it was in the good old days


Storm you should grab a Westmere. Really brings a lot of excitement and life back into X58. More cores, more speed, less heat, less power, whats not to love ;-)


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlawleZ*
> 
> Storm you should grab a Westmere. Really brings a lot of excitement and life back into X58. More cores, more speed, less heat, less power, whats not to love ;-)


One? Two and an SR-2


----------



## Mr.Scott

SR-2 is still a 500 dollar board.


----------



## FlawleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> SR-2 is still a 500 dollar board.


Or more. Someone was bidding up to 800 or 900 on an SRX recently on ebay too. Such cool boards, but not worth that much IMO.


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlawleZ*
> 
> Or more. Someone was bidding up to 800 or 900 on an SRX recently on ebay too. Such cool boards, but not worth that much IMO.


Depends hey, going by the current exchange rate I paid $850 for my SR-2, two six core Xeons (E5645s), Thermaltake coolers and a Corsair 800D.


----------



## TheN00bBuilder

Not trying too sell on here, but I saw you guys were talking about an SR2 and I saw on a Facebook PC page someone is selling one for $500. I can link it to you guys if you want.


----------



## StormX2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlawleZ*
> 
> Storm you should grab a Westmere. Really brings a lot of excitement and life back into X58. More cores, more speed, less heat, less power, whats not to love ;-)


westmere? i wouldnt know which one to look for

I actually have a whole 4690k rig to put together, just have not actually decided to do it


----------



## santi2104

LOL, people talking of intel on a amd thread, gotta love this forum, for socket 939/940 check in my signature, i upload some photos of the google server i got, ill leave the specs here

CPU`s: Amd opteron 270 x2 2ghz
RAM: Southland 1gb DDR1 ECC (16 in whatever channel they are running at)
Gpu: ati radeon 5450
Psu: MAGNETEK uncommon power 13.6 volts, 17.7 amps, 240 watts
hdd: some random hitachi deskstar 80gb
os: linux mint 17.1 (this motherboard is not compatible with acpi, so i can only wun linux and take full advantage of the hardware, or windows xp in standard pc mode, but only one core is recognized, and 3.25gb of ram of the 16gb)
motherboard: Gigabyte Ga-2pesv (good luck finding any info of that)


----------



## ShrimpBrime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *santi2104*
> 
> motherboard: Gigabyte Ga-2pesv (good luck finding any info of that)


Meh found this pdf document.

gigabyte_ga-2pesv_rev_1.1_sch.pdf 2013k .pdf file


----------



## santi2104

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShrimpBrime*
> 
> Meh found this pdf document.
> 
> gigabyte_ga-2pesv_rev_1.1_sch.pdf 2013k .pdf file


i already found it too but its more like a schematic than a manual


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheN00bBuilder*
> 
> A-HA!!! I think I got it!!!
> 
> Saw the exact same board with the same CPU for sale and it was working. I looked at the BIOS chip and it had a green blob of paint on the BIOS chip, while mine has a blue blob. Also, the one on the Newegg stock page has a blue blob on it and I assume it was one of the first ones out of the factory. My CPU is only supported by the latest BIOS, so I think I can safely say it is the BIOS. I'll order an FX-55 (one my BIOS supports) tonight and then try to reflash the BIOS to avoid buying a new BIOS chip.
> 
> Some boards also have red BIOS chips, too.


the old ASUS boards had an emergency flash. if you have a burned ISO in the right format and a disc drive hooked up to the right port you could do a blind flash by holding down certain keys at power on.


----------



## TheN00bBuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> the old ASUS boards had an emergency flash. if you have a burned ISO in the right format and a disc drive hooked up to the right port you could do a blind flash by holding down certain keys at power on.


I got it, thanks. Turns out it was the CPU.


----------



## Oj010

Last night while emptying a cupboard I came across my pile of DFI 939 boards. A shot of nostalgia right in the feels


----------



## CrazyMonkey

Heya guys, I'm going to need your help...

I've just brought back from my country my beloved DFI Lanparty nForce3 Ultra and DFI Lanparty nForce4 Ultra D and I'm struggling to find propper drivers for them. They do not exist on DFI site anymore. Does anyone now where can I find it?!

Here's de link for both of them specs:
http://www.motherboards.org/mobot/motherboards_d/DFI/LANPARTY%2BUT%2BnF3%2BULTRA-D/

http://www.motherboards.org/mobot/motherboards_d/DFI/LANPARTY%2BUT%2BnF4%2BUltra-D/

Tks to all


----------



## Oj010

If anyone is interesting in Tmod/Logan's BIOSs for DFI boards, I have them hosted here https://app.box.com/s/x6k4ev2onby1e3ts6n29


----------



## Kryton

Thank you!
Repped!


----------



## zila

I agree, that's nice that you hosted that. Rep given.


----------



## StormX2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyMonkey*
> 
> Heya guys, I'm going to need your help...
> 
> I've just brought back from my country my beloved DFI Lanparty nForce3 Ultra and DFI Lanparty nForce4 Ultra D and I'm struggling to find propper drivers for them. They do not exist on DFI site anymore. Does anyone now where can I find it?!
> 
> Here's de link for both of them specs:
> http://www.motherboards.org/mobot/motherboards_d/DFI/LANPARTY%2BUT%2BnF3%2BULTRA-D/
> 
> http://www.motherboards.org/mobot/motherboards_d/DFI/LANPARTY%2BUT%2BnF4%2BUltra-D/
> 
> Tks to all


anyone able to help this guy out?


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> anyone able to help this guy out?


I've used NF3 and NF4 drivers from different makes, as long as it isn't something specific to the board you can use drivers like that. As long as it's the chipset and nothing else it should be OK.

More or less chipset drivers tend to be generic so you can try it but remember if wanting to setup RAID or additional devices like your LAN or audio you'll need the proper drivers for it.


----------



## StormX2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> I've used NF3 and NF4 drivers from different makes, as long as it isn't something specific to the board you can use drivers like that. As long as it's the chipset and nothing else it should be OK.
> 
> More or less chipset drivers tend to be generic so you can try it but remember if wanting to setup RAID or additional devices like your LAN or audio you'll need the proper drivers for it.


yah thats the only thing I was worried about for him, I remember needing somethign specific when I ran Raid on my SLI-DR, so long ago I cant really remember much... Discs with drivers are loooong gone im sure


----------



## Oj010

I'm pretty sure I still have original driver discs. I don't, however, own an optical drive anymore







I'll have a squizz and see what I can find, I think I have discs for most if not all S939 LanParty boards including the CFX3200. If I find them I'll upload them somewhere


----------



## seaFs

nForce 1-2-3-4 use the same driver package. Just have a look at the nVidia home page. These drivers are for Windows XP/2000 only. (dated May 2005)

For Windows 7 use either the Microsoft drivers (which are stable and good) or have a look at Fernandos nForce Driver Pack (dated October 2013).

Without RAID I'd prefer the Microsoft drivers of Windows 7.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *CrazyMonkey*
> 
> Heya guys, I'm going to need your help...
> 
> I've just brought back from my country my beloved DFI Lanparty nForce3 Ultra and DFI Lanparty nForce4 Ultra D and I'm struggling to find propper drivers for them. They do not exist on DFI site anymore. Does anyone now where can I find it?!
> 
> Here's de link for both of them specs:
> http://www.motherboards.org/mobot/motherboards_d/DFI/LANPARTY%2BUT%2BnF3%2BULTRA-D/
> 
> http://www.motherboards.org/mobot/motherboards_d/DFI/LANPARTY%2BUT%2BnF4%2BUltra-D/
> 
> Tks to all
> 
> 
> 
> anyone able to help this guy out?
Click to expand...

Vista and newer Windows should theoretically support the NF3 chipset straight out of the box, no extra drivers needed. XP, just find any NF3 drivers, find an Asus board that's similar and use those drivers. They're all the same.


----------



## ShrimpBrime

This thread makes me want to break out my s939 stuff..... God I wish I had the time on hand for it


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShrimpBrime*
> 
> This thread makes me want to break out my s939 stuff..... God I wish I had the time on hand for it


Eh - Go for it.


----------



## cdoublejj

mine sat for a long time untill my little sister needed one. even without AHCI it's flying with an intel wifi AC, SSD, 8gb of ddr1 and a GTX480


----------



## oz120

Mine was never finished....

I might have to do that one of these days just to say its done.


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> mine sat for a long time untill my little sister needed one. even without AHCI it's flying with an intel wifi AC, SSD, 8gb of ddr1 and a GTX480


Where did you find 2GB DDR400 modules?


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> Where did you find 2GB DDR400 modules?


qmoda ECC server modules. they work with certain CPU revisions.


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> qmoda ECC server modules. they work with certain CPU revisions.


I know they exist but where did you find them?


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> I know they exist but where did you find them?


Ebay, i got like 7 sticks for $24 USD shipped


----------



## CrazyMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> nForce 1-2-3-4 use the same driver package. Just have a look at the nVidia home page. These drivers are for Windows XP/2000 only. (dated May 2005)
> 
> For Windows 7 use either the Microsoft drivers (which are stable and good) or have a look at Fernandos nForce Driver Pack (dated October 2013).
> 
> Without RAID I'd prefer the Microsoft drivers of Windows 7.


The Nforce 3 drivers from Nvidia webpage weren't working last week, but today I've finally manage to download them.







The audio drivers needs to be downloaded from Realtek main page but work pretty fine. Right know I have both systems working on a Windows XP 32bits base (old school) and their going to be my toys to play around from now on.

Driver related: I'm thinking about upload the drivers package to a fileshare website so everybody can use them in the future if needed. As soon as its ready I'll leave the link.

Many thanks to you all.

As promissedÇ

NF4 Drivers AMD for DFI - https://app.box.com/s/nufcdmymym7j8cwzyo5x17t2vdvlunuk

NF3 Drivers AMD for DFI (includes Audio Drivers) - https://app.box.com/s/2covz4mkp3vjrvbv1o2jctzkyw4fp7nk


----------



## gasparspeed

Guys, it's alive!
DFI NF4 Infinity Ultra for 3€!
I will post pics later...









EDIT: wrong validation, this one is with my Corsair RAM Validation


----------



## zila

Awesome!


----------



## gasparspeed

Now, who said i shouldn't put a Dual Core chip on the Infinity?








FX-60 on NF4 Infinity
Runs at stock because motherboard doesn't wants to overclock (later we discovered that our OCing chip just had a broken pin







)
Now i will try to do some light OC... Our "Deer brand" 400W PSU is not that great for 110W TDP CPUs.

EDIT: Well, i just broke my old rercord on the FX-60







Sad thing is that this motherboard refuses to OC with FSB, it just boots at 200 FSB. 2.9Ghz!
Also, the VCore is kinda rare, i set the VCore to 1.375V and now is running @ 1.42V...
I'm going to try right now to do 3Ghz on Air!


----------



## gasparspeed

Okay, finally after trying lots of times with lots of differents settings, i could not boot to Windows at 3Ghz... I upped the VCore till' 1.475V on BIOS (1.48V reading on BIOS) and still it BSOD on WIndows XP login screen... So no 3Ghz for me...








But oh well, looks like i will have to use this ghetto-setup as my main PC because my C2Q's Seagate Barracuda went ka-boom ,so, i'm back to 939 again








Right now, i'm running at 2.2Ghz because the 92mm Delta was just too loud, so, downclocked and turned the Delta to 50% on BIOS (this thing's BIOS is just amazing!)
Even with only 1GB of RAM and Windows XP this thing boots faster than my i7...









Anyways, here are the pics! Sorry for awful phone quality


----------



## Mr.Scott

What bios are you running on that board?


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> What bios are you running on that board?


Phoenix Technologies LTD 6.00 PG (03/01/2006) <---- That's what CPU-Z Validation says, right now i can't go and check if it's correct. In a couple of hours i will check it. Maybe there's a newer BIOS version that fixes the FSB OverClock?


----------



## Mr.Scott

I'll help you out.
Flash this bios and let me know if it's better.

CK84D613.zip 262k .zip file


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> I'll help you out.
> Flash this bios and let me know if it's better.
> 
> CK84D613.zip 262k .zip file


Hm, I never flashed a BIOS without using some sort of program. I guess that for this one i will need a MS-DOS bootable USB? How do I flash it with the new BIOS?

EDIT: Well, right now i'm busy, so please, tell me how to flash the board, and the next weekend if i can i will try it.
Also, i just saw that I have a DFI NF4 Infinity, not a NF4 Infinity _Ultra_, both boards look like the same, but the NF4 Infinity only supports SATA150 (i saw that on some random website...)


----------



## Mr.Scott

Sorry. Flash utility attached.

AWDFLASH.zip 26k .zip file

Unpack the .bin file, flash utility, and batch file I made for you to a bootable USB flash drive. Boot to it and the batch file will take care of everything. After the flash is complete, power off the rig, clear the CMOS, re-boot and load optimized defaults. After that you can set up your OC again.

Infinity and Ultra use the same bios.


----------



## Oj010

I just had such an AWESOME walk down memory lane, I just had to share this here http://carbonite.co.za/f29/oj0s-favourite-overclocks-51855/


----------



## Mr.Scott

Thanks for that.


----------



## ShrimpBrime

YAY!! Finally got this thing up and running. For 2 days I've been fighting the memory to keep this thing stable enough to actually install windows. By upping the Ram voltage to 2.8v, I finally got it to be manageable!!

Going to do some tweaking to the OS ram timings and such and then try an overclock. Currently running a Opteron Heat pipe cooler, it's not going to get me far with OC, but for now... it'll have to do!

Been wanting to do this for a long time. Glad I listened to you guys and just did it. Word!


----------



## zila

939 is a lot of fun. I'm going to be bringing back my Opty 180 gamer. I had it running for a while but none of my air coolers could handle it when it's loaded. I'm gonna water cool it this time around and It should be real nice when finished. I'll be starting that next month.


----------



## ShrimpBrime

Nice can't wait to see it ZIlla!!!

I broke out the old X1800XT. As you can see W7 is installed and I'm not entirely sure what driver is being used right now. Probably going to dig out the Omega driver and see how it goes. This one has a modded bios for a little extra horse power, So I won't need to OC it much, but I do have the voltage pumped up pretty good if I decide to OC it.

I found a good handful of processors as well. 2x 3400+'s a 3500+ this 4000+ an Opty 170 and a few others even a sempron or two. Dug these out looking for Cpus to send the guys from the OC comp that participated last month. Just gotta find time, I work both jobs all week 13 hour days. It sucks. That and the extra $ to ship them out over seas as well. In due time. I didn't forget. Just so dang busy. I stayed up till 3AM last night getting stuff done. Gotta work tonight though.....

But ya! s939 is totally fun. I got this system running with a nice little SSD my brother let me borrow. Think I might have to keep it. Quick man. Patriot Pyro Drive


----------



## zila

An SSD sounds like a great idea. I might have to pick one up when I see a sale on one. I'm thinking right now that I might either mod an old Centurion 5 case or maybe use an old Black and Blue themed Apevia X-Plorer case.

I have to order the water cooling gear first and see what fits best. The Apevia already is a windowed case which would be nice. Although I was also thinking about getting a DIY window kit for the Centurion 5 as well. I also have a light kit around here some where.

Opteron 180
DFI Ultra-D
Maybe 4x512 Crucial Ballistix Tracers PC4000 @ 2.5-2-2-5 2T * This is just on the drawing board stage right now. I have all the hardware, I just don't have the water cooling stuff for it yet.
For the video card I have An XFX HD4890 with a Zalman VF3000A mounted on it. Man that thing looks sweet.









I also have an DFI LANPARTY UT nF4 SLI-D NIB that I have never used. I always wanted to pair that up with a couple of nice video cards but I don't have a good matching pair. That's another project for the future.

I really like the idea of the modded Centurion 5 though.









**Edit: come to think of it.............I think I might leave the Apevia case alone for now. I think I may want to put together a Socket A build in that one day.


----------



## ShrimpBrime

I got some DDR Gskill 3-4-4-8. WIth the modded bios, it's giving me hell big time. SO I need to find something better. Currently running one stick so I could install the OS>

The UT is the board I'm using. It's not new, I bought it used from EOCF, but it's a great board. I think I had an Ultra D at one point too some years ago. Not sure what I did with it, I may have sold in when I needed some cash.

But you got a HD4890! Thats a beastly card. Runs hot as heck if memory serves right. I had one of those. pretty cool!
Quote:


> I really like the idea of the modded Centurion 5 though


This I'll be watching out for. I think you should mod it. Gonna be awesome!


----------



## Kryton

Shrimpy, go home and check yer mailbox.


----------



## zila

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShrimpBrime*
> 
> I got some DDR Gskill 3-4-4-8. WIth the modded bios, it's giving me hell big time. SO I need to find something better. Currently running one stick so I could install the OS>
> 
> The UT is the board I'm using. It's not new, I bought it used from EOCF, but it's a great board. I think I had an Ultra D at one point too some years ago. Not sure what I did with it, I may have sold in when I needed some cash.
> 
> But you got a HD4890! Thats a beastly card. Runs hot as heck if memory serves right. I had one of those. pretty cool!
> This I'll be watching out for. I think you should mod it. Gonna be awesome!


Yup, that's right Shrimp, I've got an HD4890. It's not hot at all anymore though cause like I said it's got the VF3000A on it now to cool so it's cold as a cucumber.


----------



## FlawleZ

My main rig was using a 4890 before my 7950 and I loved that card. Mine was a vapor X which was quite cool as well. Wish I still had it :-/


----------



## Blameless

Merging from another thread...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> For a few months I ran an Opteron 165 at around 325-330 MHz, it was somewhere between 2900 and 2950 MHz running distributed computing projects. That was around the limit for 24/7 stability on any chip, the South African heat of mid to high 30s is a bit of a stopper. Even my 3916 MHz FX-55 couldn't do 3 GHz stable.


~330MHz reference clock is where most of my chips started to crap out in stress testing, and few could reach their maximum core speeds with such high reference clocks.

I had an Opteron 170 that was stable at 3.1GHz, but it needed it's 10x multiplier to do so. 310*10 would handle anything I threw at it. 344*9 would be lucky to pass a single loop of 3DMark 2001SE.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> DC projects are far more stressful than Prime95 as you're talking permanent 100 % load


Prime95 is a distributed computing project, and one that's more stressful than many.

Anyway, when I say stable, I'm typically referring to settings where any conceivable piece of software can be run for an arbitrarily long period of time without error.

I used Prime95 as an example because it's one of the longer lived and more consistently stressful tests that is widely known. It's not perfect, it's not comprehensive, but it is something of a "gold standard", and largely for good reason.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Being that you've never tried


I don't have much recollection of what suicide runs I tried on 939. I've done plenty, but I've always been more concerned with usable OCs rather than validations, benching, or setting records.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> It's not as easy as you think.


I never meant to imply it was easy, just that what can be reached on suicide runs is almost universally far in excess of what can be made stable.


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blameless*
> 
> Merging from another thread...
> ~330MHz reference clock is where most of my chips started to crap out in stress testing, and few could reach their maximum core speeds with such high reference clocks.
> 
> I had an Opteron 170 that was stable at 3.1GHz, but it needed it's 10x multiplier to do so. 310*10 would handle anything I threw at it. 344*9 would be lucky to pass a single loop of 3DMark 2001SE.
> Prime95 is a distributed computing project, and one that's more stressful than many.
> 
> Anyway, when I say stable, I'm typically referring to settings where any conceivable piece of software can be run for an arbitrarily long period of time without error.
> 
> I used Prime95 as an example because it's one of the longer lived and more consistently stressful tests that is widely known. It's not perfect, it's not comprehensive, but it is something of a "gold standard", and largely for good reason.
> I don't have much recollection of what suicide runs I tried on 939. I've done plenty, but I've always been more concerned with usable OCs rather than validations, benching, or setting records.
> I never meant to imply it was easy, just that what can be reached on suicide runs is almost universally far in excess of what can be made stable.


Well that merge has destroyed context for anyone who wasn't following it, so I'll link: http://www.overclock.net/t/1572445/939-cpus-fx-or-opteron-preferred

I'm going to start by saying with 95 % confidence there isn't a chip in my collection I can't get 24/7 stable at 330 MHz HT. It might not be a walk in the park, I know full well as I've spent days eeking an extra 5 MHz out. I certainly won't say it's impossible though. In fact, for the hell of it sell me that Opteron 170 if you still have it and don't want it and I'll see what I can do - is there a prize if I can get it stable in any benchmark at 345 MHz HT or higher?







If it indeed can't do 345 MHz stable I think it's one of the worst pieces of silicon around.

I'm going to say that 4,320 hours of WCG or running a 3D render that takes upwards of 60 hours says more about stability that three or four hours of Prime95. I'm also going to say again, does it matter if a rig is stable enough to run 24/7 but crashes instantly with Prime95? No, unless you built your rig with the main intention of running Prime95. Does it matter if you're stable in Prime95 but crash at the end of a large workload? Absolutely. Prime95 isn't good enough for me, I've had plenty of times where I'm stable overnight with it but crash a few hours into a 3DS Max render, and that's completely unacceptable for me. Even with my dual Xeons I can get an hour OCCT stability (I didn't run Prime95, I was asked to run it for someone) at a speed that doesn't complete CineBench without a CTD.

Maybe you're far better at suicide runs than me (my best is 430 MHz validated and 456 MHz freezing while booting to Windows), maybe I'm better at getting stability, but I've never found the gap between suicide and stable to be in excess of 100 MHz HT as you seem to be implying. It is in excess, yes, by a fair margin, yes, but not 100 MHz+.


----------



## ShrimpBrime

Well said.

Thinking back and looking through some old numbers, From 754 - AM2 Athlons and including brisbane core.

Anything at 3ghz or higher with s939 is where you want to be running. It'll be quick enough tough being single core... But FX wouldn't be today if that wasn't back then.

So this Venice core 3032ghz at 303 bus clocks was fun. But was a lot more stable at 2977mhz was what I benched at the time. http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1688626 liquid cooling.

Had the most fun finding a s754 chip that was not cold bugged in some way. http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2606835 It should hold gold for quite some time to come.

I'd gladly trade my FX-9590 for a drawer full of old s754 and s939 chips right now.









sA 2400+ 40% overclock.









Lots of fun on plenty of platforms. It's about fun. Not stability, not max clocks, certainly not beating a dead horse into the ground that's for sure....... Fun. If OC isn't fun to you and you ain't got nothin to show off, no sense in an argument but I've learned plenty just from watching and reading. And then actually doing.

Boils down to every one's system is different, doesn't matter what cooling, and Fun.

What's your old school overclocks?





Man 2.3ghz that was haulin!!!


----------



## Mr.Scott

350 x 9 BTW
Rock stable all day long.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShrimpBrime*
> 
> Well said.
> 
> Thinking back and looking through some old numbers, From 754 - AM2 Athlons and including brisbane core.
> 
> Anything at 3ghz or higher with s939 is where you want to be running. It'll be quick enough tough being single core... But FX wouldn't be today if that wasn't back then.
> 
> So this Venice core 3032ghz at 303 bus clocks was fun. But was a lot more stable at 2977mhz was what I benched at the time. http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1688626 liquid cooling.
> 
> Had the most fun finding a s754 chip that was not cold bugged in some way. http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2606835 It should hold gold for quite some time to come.
> 
> I'd gladly trade my FX-9590 for a drawer full of old s754 and s939 chips right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sA 2400+ 40% overclock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of fun on plenty of platforms. It's about fun. Not stability, not max clocks, certainly not beating a dead horse into the ground that's for sure....... Fun. If OC isn't fun to you and you ain't got nothin to show off, no sense in an argument but I've learned plenty just from watching and reading. And then actually doing.
> 
> Boils down to every one's system is different, doesn't matter what cooling, and Fun.
> 
> What's your old school overclocks?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Man 2.3ghz that was haulin!!!


FX-55 on an H-60


----------



## ShrimpBrime

Nice!

FX-62 (AM2)


----------



## FlawleZ

Have a fresh H80i I'm tempted to throw on my FX-60. You guys think it's worth the effort to try over the Zalman 9500? I think 2.9Ghz was all I could get out of it on the Zalman


----------



## ShrimpBrime

Ya why not? It would be one step up over, little bit helps. Push Pull fans... Ya I'd do it.


----------



## ShrimpBrime

4000+ at 3024mhz. Got a little more than this, but will require a little cooler temps to getter' movin.

Air cooled in the 55c range TJMax is 57c this is all I get for now. But happy with the results. benching right at 3ghz.

San Diego / SH-E4-Step (90 nm) F.7.1 / F.27 on DFI Lan Party UT Expert with modded bios (thanks ClassicPlatforms ** Mr. Scotty)

edit: forgot the validation! sry bout that http://valid.x86.fr/i54aiu


----------



## zila

Nice Shrimp, those San Diegos are nice chips.


----------



## Mr.Scott

http://valid.canardpc.com/xrf0et


----------



## zila

Nice chip Scottie.


----------



## FlawleZ

Have this guy hanging out in the closet. This was just on a Zalman 9500


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlawleZ*
> 
> 
> 
> Have this guy hanging out in the closet. This was just on a Zalman 9500


Nice speed, Mr.Scott. What sort of ambient temperatures are you getting? In South Africa I used to hit a temperature barrier even with a Zalman CNPS9700. Indoor temperatures approaching 40'c are killer


----------



## ShrimpBrime

Look at you guys Trumpin my clocks!

Mine was on a opteron heat pipe cooler maxin temps. Ambient here was 78f


----------



## ShrimpBrime

Hahahaha what the?


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShrimpBrime*
> 
> Hahahaha what the?


Am I missing something?

Hehe I just saw your signature, I'll see your delidded 6400+ at 4063.93 MHz and raise you a non-delidded 6000+ at 4144.57 MHz









Wow, I just saw the date of my submission, no way it was almost seven years ago







Where has time gone?


----------



## ShrimpBrime

Nice! Ive actually seen that submission!!

Time flies when your having fun brother!


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> Nice speed, Mr.Scott. What sort of ambient temperatures are you getting? In South Africa I used to hit a temperature barrier even with a Zalman CNPS9700. Indoor temperatures approaching 40'c are killer


Ambient was in the 23c range, give or take a degree.


----------



## ShrimpBrime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Ambient was in the 23c range, give or take a degree.


Oh that wasn't run on your chiller loop? That was air cooling? Holy S*o*e* batman!

Im jealous.....


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShrimpBrime*
> 
> Oh that wasn't run on your chiller loop? That was air cooling? Holy S*o*e* batman!
> 
> Im jealous.....


Nope. Never ran it cold yet. Tested on air and put away. Probably the best San Diego I have.


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Nope. Never ran it cold yet. Tested on air and put away. Probably the best San Diego I have.


I take it you had no stability there whatsoever? It makes me wonder what I could've done with my FX-55, it topped out at 3,205 MHz with the stock AMD cooler and ambients 10-15'c higher than yours. I reckon it just may have cracked 3.3 GHz, I have little faith it would've beaten yours though.

I know full well that air clocks don't translate to LN2 clocks in any way, but mine did over 3.9 GHz on LN2 (no coldbug using a 15x multiplier even with a full pot







) with an HT speed of 261 MHz - 356 MHz is one hell of a lot to ask under cold, but maybe just maaaaaaaaaybe it would be doable at around -15'c to -30''c?


----------



## zila

I'm gonna be messing aroung with my 939s this weekend. I've got a couple San Diegos I wanna check out. I have a 3700+ that I know is decent and a new in box 4000+ that has never been mounted at all. And I have yet another 4000+ that does 3000MHz at stock volts. I only ran it for a few minutes but it was looking REAL good. Cool and fast. 3 Ultra-D's, and SLI-D and an 939dual-sata2 to bring back to life. Cool weather is headed our way and I'm in a 939 kind of mood.


----------



## ShrimpBrime

I got a little stack of s939 chips to test. This 4000+ at 2997mhz is great, stable voltage is reasonable.... but at that 3001ghz mark, more volts more.

You fellas have some decent processors, probably much better ram than I have which makes a huge difference. The BH5 I sold (scotty probably remembers - he gave it to me on trade) I had to beat to death to get decent clocks.... But after messing with this G-skill, I discovered my awesome modded bios is playing a pretty big role on how I set this rig up. (thanks to ClassicPlatforms for the bios in the bios section - Mr Scotty also hand picked for me possibly added a tweak or two for it as well....) Has some pretty intense memory settings. Starting Ram off at cas 2-2-2 or 2.5-2-2 requires every bit of 1.8v (which really isn't a lot) and benches like a mofo too.

On degree of difficulty, my particular motherboard is really picky on the Ram slots used. Gets hung on start up with memory LED stuck. swap sticks or just use one, start slot A1, try A2, back to A1 and it boots up. Then shut it down and add second stick into A2 for dual channel. How picky can this board get man!? Drives me crazy, but once I gett'er goin, no problems at all. Try installing an OS like that and the preset memory tweaks makes it unbearable. Had to really loosen timings at 1.65v memory to install OS, didn't think there was much impact until Windows XP started throwing blue screens. Then I knew exactly what the issue was.

Forgive me scotty, I should have never sold the memory. Thought I toasted it, but I bet it's still good even after pumping an easy 2.1v through it actively cooled..... I didn't know any better at the time. Ship happens to float sometimes, lesson learned. Think Luke got some Ram I can have, but likely not BH5 or 6. I'll have to pry that from his cold dead hands HAH!
Quote:


> I know full well that air clocks don't translate to LN2 clocks in any way, but mine did over 3.9 GHz on LN2 (no coldbug using a 15x multiplier even with a full pot biggrin.gif) with an HT speed of 261 MHz - 356 MHz is one hell of a lot to ask under cold, but maybe just maaaaaaaaaybe it would be doable at around -15'c to -30''c?


j010 - That's impressive. My paris core (s754) was not cold bugged. Only one out of tens of processors I found that liked the LN2.


----------



## zila

I'll be playing with these on my Ultra-D and my 3700+ and 4000+



I need to work on my ram tuning skills.


----------



## ShrimpBrime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> I'll be playing with these on my Ultra-D and my 3700+ and 4000+
> 
> 
> 
> I need to work on my ram tuning skills.


XD

lol ya right. you've got skills like riding a bike. They never go away lol









Can't wait to see some clocks Zilla!

If you can share a few bios setting screen shots, I'd like to try and learn from them a little. Let me know what bios you got too would ya?


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShrimpBrime*
> 
> Starting Ram off at cas 2-2-2 or 2.5-2-2 requires every bit of 1.8v (which really isn't a lot) and benches like a mofo too.
> 
> Thought I toasted it, but I bet it's still good even after pumping an easy 2.1v through it actively cooled.....


I think you're a volt off? DDR stock voltage is 2.5v/2.6v, TCCD loves around 2.7-3.1v and BH-5 wants 3.6v just to get out of bed


----------



## ShrimpBrime

I'm known for being a volt off


----------



## Oj010

So was your 6400+ at 0.664v or 2.664v?


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> I'll be playing with these on my Ultra-D and my 3700+ and 4000+
> 
> 
> 
> I need to work on my ram tuning skills.


----------



## TheN00bBuilder

Well, my new boards and CPUs arrived. Turns out the DFI board was fried indeed,







. But however, I also bought an ASUS A32N-SLI from the guy. With an Opteron 165, it can hit 2750MHz stable at 1.45V. Any suggestions on how to get it higher?


----------



## ShrimpBrime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheN00bBuilder*
> 
> Well, my new boards and CPUs arrived. Turns out the DFI board was fried indeed,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . But however, I also bought an ASUS A32N-SLI from the guy. With an Opteron 165, it can hit 2750MHz stable at 1.45V. Any suggestions on how to get it higher?


A lot more v-core. Should cruise along nicely at 1.60v


----------



## TheN00bBuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShrimpBrime*
> 
> A lot more v-core. Should cruise along nicely at 1.60v


Oh? Cool! Yeah, I guess this board has a lot more room for Vcore. However, I did hit 3 GHz with 1.51V. Might that chip be a good overclocker? Once I get an aftermarket cooler, I'll try to go higher.


----------



## gasparspeed

I just bought 2x512Mb of OCZ Gold Gamer Extreme DDR433 2-2-2-5 RAM.
Now i have to wait for the delivery...
I can't wait to put them on my Infinity and try to reach 3Ghz on my FX-60...


----------



## ShrimpBrime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheN00bBuilder*
> 
> Oh? Cool! Yeah, I guess this board has a lot more room for Vcore. However, I did hit 3 GHz with 1.51V. Might that chip be a good overclocker? Once I get an aftermarket cooler, I'll try to go higher.


Had one that was cruising 3200mhz and up with 1.60v. But heck if your hitting 3 at 1.51v, no need to push the deal. Get what you can from it.

Typically, a lot of K8 chips liked 1.60v and up. Hitting 1.7v may require chilling or some lower ambient temps.

Obviously my 4000+ is far from a low voltage chip. Loves 1.65v and up past 3ghz. But that's how s939 is. Some are good for only 2.8ghz some are good for 3.2ghz and everything between can be a toss up.


----------



## toughacton

Seems like a lot to me. Although i have a late stepping and it runs on really low volts. I'm set at 1.325V in BIOS, though the board overvolts and under load its more like 1.36 or so. My limiting factor is more cooling. I'm just using the original heatpipe cooler. So I tend to hit mid 50's or worse under heavy load. Still pretty fun though. I'm just amazed at how well this thing still does. Were you under water? If so I'd say over 1.5 is alright. Much over 1.6 though needs some extreme cooling to be safe (not that it can't be done though)


----------



## ShrimpBrime

I must have a crappy one then. I dont recall getting 3ghz on stock voltage ever...... Also using a opteron heatpipe cooler, temps hitting max over. I need to find mounting screws for my waterblock and slam a TEC in there.... if I get lucky to have a cpu that likes cold.....


----------



## CrazyMonkey

Finally I've received my beloved Opty and DFI NF4 UltraD that I left back in my country. It brings me back a lot of good memories. I did not had the time to tweak it around but here's my first tryout with it.



It used to be OC'ed @ 3Ghz with 1.51V but with a diferent setup (RAM, PSU and VGA).

For now this is the setup:

Opteron 175 @ Zalman 7000AlCu
4x512MB Geil One CL2.5
DFI LanParty NF4 UltraDR
SSD 60GB Kingston V300
BFG 8800GTS 512MB (G92)
Aerocool Integrator 500W

It will be my old school gamming rig to play some good old games (COD4, Mafia, GTA VC, Tropico and so on).

Soon I'll post some other pictures from another opty (170 with a DFI NF3 Ultra D and a XFX 6800GT)...


----------



## zila

Very nice. I can't wait to get mine up and running again. Mine will be for older games too.


----------



## gasparspeed

Today i got a bit of time to test my new OCZ PC3500 Gold modules on my FX-60...
3Ghz easy peasy (maybe a bit too much VCore but it was a fast test, it was actually set to 1.5V in the BIOS)








http://valid.x86.fr/wnn6yc

But still, couldn't flash my NF4 Infinity BIOS so no FSB overclock, and because of that i can't run these sticks @ 433Mhz


----------



## seaFs

Strange question, but what is the minimum multi the CPU boots up/runs stable? 4x or 5x?


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Strange question, but what is the minimum multi the CPU boots up/runs stable? 4x or 5x?


Depends on the board and the chip used.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Depends on the board and the chip used.


Hey Mr.Scott, do you remember the BIOS you gave me to flash my NF4 Infinity? I tried it and it looks like it didn't worked or something... I ended up having the exact same BIOS i had before (and the same FSB OC bug i had).
I also got an error while flashing

But i have no floppy drive plugged in :/


----------



## seaFs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Depends on the board and the chip used.


I know it depends, but I wanted to know on what exactly. I'm not sure if Rev. E6 can't run 4x at all or if it's the A8N32.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Hey Mr.Scott, do you remember the BIOS you gave me to flash my NF4 Infinity? I tried it and it looks like it didn't worked or something... I ended up having the exact same BIOS i had before (and the same FSB OC bug i had).
> I also got an error while flashing
> 
> But i have no floppy drive plugged in :/


Refresh my memory. Which bios?
If you're not using a floppy, you can't flash from the A drive.









It is your flashing method that's giving you trouble.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> I know it depends, but I wanted to know on what exactly. I'm not sure if Rev. E6 can't run 4x at all or if it's the A8N32.


I've run E6's at 4x so it's probably the board. I never liked the A8N32 because of a few bios issues I found while working on it. Never had much luck modding my way out of it either. That's pretty much the reason I dumped the Asus board in favor of DFI boards.


----------



## Kryton

I more or less run DFI's now but still have an A8N32 here that I used to run for OC'ing and still do on occasion.
Did well on it's own and while it is a good board it's simply not a DFI.

Only thing I've found with it is that it for some reason will clock certain sticks of RAM I have (OCZ Platinum 2x 1GB sticks CL2-3-2-5) higher than my DFI's will but DFI's are picky with RAM anyway.

I can't explain it, the board just does it.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Refresh my memory. Which bios?
> If you're not using a floppy, you can't flash from the A drive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is your flashing method that's giving you trouble.


This BIOS with the program and autorun file you gave me like a month ago...
It's supposed to be flashed with a Bootable DOS USB, right? That's what i was trying to do...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> I'll help you out.
> Flash this bios and let me know if it's better.
> 
> CK84D613.zip 262k .zip file


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Sorry. Flash utility attached.
> 
> AWDFLASH.zip 26k .zip file
> 
> Unpack the .bin file, flash utility, and batch file I made for you to a bootable USB flash drive. Boot to it and the batch file will take care of everything. After the flash is complete, power off the rig, clear the CMOS, re-boot and load optimized defaults. After that you can set up your OC again.
> 
> Infinity and Ultra use the same bios.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Probably a typo in my batch file. My bad.
I'll help you do it manually.
On your bootable flash drive, unpack the bios and the flash utility OMITTING the batch file.
Boot to your flash drive. At the prompt type awdflash ck84d613.bin /cks/sn/py/cc/cd/cp/wb/ld/qi/f
DO NOT power off the machine. When it finishes remove your flash drive and re-boot entering the bios and selecting 'load optimum default settings'.
Save and re-boot. You can now set up your OC again.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Probably a typo in my batch file. My bad.
> I'll help you do it manually.
> On your bootable flash drive, unpack the bios and the flash utility OMITTING the batch file.
> Boot to your flash drive. At the prompt type awdflash ck84d613.bin /cks/sn/py/cc/cd/cp/wb/ld/qi/f
> DO NOT power off the machine. When it finishes remove your flash drive and re-boot entering the bios and selecting 'load optimum default settings'.
> Save and re-boot. You can now set up your OC again.


OK, that worked perfectly, i can see the BIOS changed (more CPU VCore options) but, one interesting option for me has gone with this new BIOS... The ability to control Chipset Fan manually.
Also, i just booted to Win XP and now CPU-Z reports my FX-60 (on the Specification part, not Name) as a "AMD Processor Model Unknown". Is there anyway to get access again to the Chipset Fan control?

EDIT: Well, looks that FSB OverClock still doesn't work, tried 210 FSB and x12 multiplier, saved, booted to Win XP and still, only the multiplier has changed, FSB is still "stuck" at 201...


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> OK, that worked perfectly, i can see the BIOS changed (more CPU VCore options) but, one interesting option for me has gone with this new BIOS... The ability to control Chipset Fan manually.
> Also, i just booted to Win XP and now CPU-Z reports my FX-60 (on the Specification part, not Name) as a "AMD Processor Model Unknown". Is there anyway to get access again to the Chipset Fan control?


Yes. Change the bios back. Really though, those boards have a problem with hot chipsets. You should be running that fan 100% all the time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> EDIT: Well, looks that FSB OverClock still doesn't work, tried 210 FSB and x12 multiplier, saved, booted to Win XP and still, only the multiplier has changed, FSB is still "stuck" at 201...


That sucks. That tells me your board has a problem that may never be corrected.
Just out of curiosity, download Clockgen and tell me if that will change your FSB.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Yes. Change the bios back. Really though, those boards have a problem with hot chipsets. You should be running that fan 100% all the time.
> That sucks. That tells me your board has a problem that may never be corrected.
> Just out of curiosity, download Clockgen and tell me if that will change your FSB.


Clockgen! I forgot that! Maybe i could use clockgen... I will definitely try it, but not now, i have to study and stuff... Don't you know what is the code for Clockgen on this board right? It seems that i cannot find the original web of clockgen that had all the codes...
Also, i know nForce4 chipset runs pretty hot (even more with this lame heatsink) but, with the old BIOS i used to set it at 100%, now, i'm not sure if it's always at 100% or if its on AUTO...

Also, thank you for helping me flashing the BIOS! I couldn't find ANY BIOS file for this motherboard since the DFI website now doesn't have them.


----------



## Mr.Scott

I have clockgen for you too.









ClockGen_1.0.5.3.zip 328k .zip file


Chipset fan is at 100% all the time on that bios.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> I have clockgen for you too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ClockGen_1.0.5.3.zip 328k .zip file
> 
> 
> Chipset fan is at 100% all the time on that bios.


Dont forget nForce4 Clock Gen

Nforce4ClockGen.zip 150k .zip file


----------



## Mr.Scott

Doesn't matter which one. Both work without issue.


----------



## Aleslammer

A few pages back a few folks were trying 8GBs of ram so had to give it a try so picked up 4 sticks of Qimonda HYS72D256220GBR-5-B awhile back and finally gave it a try this weekend to see if more RAM would help on some of the benches that favor W7 64.
Wasn't bad but didn't see an improvement over a set of 2x1 G. Skills, giving up to much RAM speed. 3.0 volts on the DDR, MB A8N32-SLI and a 148 Opty water cooled.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aleslammer*
> 
> A few pages back a few folks were trying 8GBs of ram so had to give it a try so picked up 4 sticks of Qimonda HYS72D256220GBR-5-B awhile back and finally gave it a try this weekend to see if more RAM would help on some of the benches that favor W7 64.
> Wasn't bad but didn't see an improvement over a set of 2x1 G. Skills, giving up to much RAM speed. 3.0 volts on the DDR, MB A8N32-SLI and a 148 Opty water cooled.


You have some real sweet numbers there.







+rep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> I have clockgen for you too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ClockGen_1.0.5.3.zip 328k .zip file
> 
> 
> Chipset fan is at 100% all the time on that bios.


YOU spend way too much time helping out in this thread and deserve alot more Rep!

Boys use that button on this man!


----------



## ShrimpBrime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> You have some real sweet numbers there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +rep
> YOU spend way too much time helping out in this thread and deserve alot more Rep!
> 
> Boys use that button on this man!


You have no idea the knowledge and potential he really has. It's a shame every one posts here for vintage hardware instead of simply paying a visit to ClassicPlatforms.com. That would please him more than some simple rep at his forum. Incredible how often he's help me out Personally and I feel there's no way to return the favor to him.

So I just go around screaming ClassicPlatforms!!

The Bios data base there alone is worth registering for. THAT you can take my word on.

Additional Comment:

Thanks Scotty.


----------



## zila

Yup, I am so very proud to call Scottie my friend. He has helped me so many times on so many different things. And he enjoys helping. Scottie is a good man.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShrimpBrime*
> 
> You have no idea the knowledge and potential he really has. It's a shame every one posts here for vintage hardware instead of simply paying a visit to ClassicPlatforms.com. That would please him more than some simple rep at his forum. ...


Actually I do. At this point in my life I spend near zero time at my old profession. Popping in a few boards here and there is it. I don't join new communities anymore even worthwhile ones. I was pointing out something that needs to be addressed here, that is all.


----------



## seaFs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aleslammer*
> 
> A few pages back a few folks were trying 8GBs of ram so had to give it a try so picked up 4 sticks of Qimonda HYS72D256220GBR-5-B awhile back and finally gave it a try this weekend to see if more RAM would help on some of the benches that favor W7 64.
> Wasn't bad but didn't see an improvement over a set of 2x1 G. Skills, giving up to much RAM speed. 3.0 volts on the DDR, MB A8N32-SLI and a 148 Opty water cooled.


Video encoding benchmarks won't show any improvements, because the encoder is heavily optimized for using pure compute power (SSE stuff). The only thing that matters is CPU frequency. Welcome to the 8GB club


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> YOU spend way too much time helping out in this thread and deserve alot more Rep!
> 
> Boys use that button on this man!


You are right, but in this forum, most people are probably not reading this thread. I wasn't and just saw this out of pure luck. But you are right. I went back quickly scanning this thread up to Sept 2014 and gave some rep points in posts that objectively deserve them so no favours done, i hope others do the same.


----------



## Mr.Scott

I actually think that pimping one's own site on somebody else's is tacky, that's why I don't do it.

Thanks for the thanks guys.


----------



## ShrimpBrime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> I actually think that pimping one's own site on somebody else's is tacky, that's why I don't do it.
> 
> Thanks for the thanks guys.


Not pimping here.... At least I'm not looking at it that way.

I'll remove my sig


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShrimpBrime*
> 
> Not pimping here.... At least I'm not looking at it that way.
> 
> I'll remove my sig


LOL. Jon, I didn't mean it like that. Your sig is your sig. You can put whatever you like in it.


----------



## ShrimpBrime

Nah you're right. It's tacky. I just enjoy sharing my favorite classic site is all. I'm sure there's better ways to do it.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Spoiler tags.








People love to click on shiz.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aleslammer*
> 
> A few pages back a few folks were trying 8GBs of ram so had to give it a try so picked up 4 sticks of Qimonda HYS72D256220GBR-5-B awhile back and finally gave it a try this weekend to see if more RAM would help on some of the benches that favor W7 64.
> Wasn't bad but didn't see an improvement over a set of 2x1 G. Skills, giving up to much RAM speed. 3.0 volts on the DDR, MB A8N32-SLI and a 148 Opty water cooled.


The RAM boost isn't really an attempt at extra performance. Its the ever growing need for more RAM, and trying to bring a system / platform that otherwise would die, into the modern computing era. When I went from 2GB to 8GB, I didn't even bother OCing the RAM, just the CPU and video card to keep my aging system alive and usable. In fact, my RAM is at 200mhz, the CPU at 3ghz exact.

Glad to be a s939 8GB club member, using my system as a HTPC and emulation machine.







SOOO DOPE!!!11!!1!!


----------



## Aleslammer

Just playing, something different got to give it try.

Was happy with this
http://hwbot.org/submission/3021890_

Although Mr. Scott has a better run with a little less core.


----------



## rhkcommander959

Neat to see the 8gig development, I stated working two jobs right before you guys had it figured out... Too bad I wasted money on 4x1 junk mem. Guess I gotta get me some 8gb action going









So the important info was e6 cpu and some motherboards... I saw a lot of failed DFI NVIDIA boards on here but what about the cfx3200's? I have a couple of them laying around, and a dead nvidia one...

And have you guys found out if any 2gb ecc sticks work, or only those specific ones?


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> And have you guys found out if any 2gb ecc sticks work, or only those specific ones?


Right now, we only know of the Qimonda 2GB sticks working with E6 CPUs on only the one board. That's what I've kept noted during this process. Someone experimented with 4GB stacked DDR1 sticks, but they didn't work. Too fat to fit side by side on the DDR slots, AND didn't boot, even with a single stick...

If it had, we would be in another dimension, out of phase from this reality... The quantum hologram wouldn't maintain itself upon such developments.


----------



## seaFs

4GB quad stacked sticks DO fit, but without the heat spreader. They won't work, because quad stacked DIMMs (128Mx4 quad ranked) are supported by AMD beginning with some sort of Phenom 2 CPU, so DDR3 only.

The ECC/ registered stiuff is in the end controlled by the BIOS, not the chipset. If you have a CFX3200 board by Asus, chances are good that it works.

So basically the 2GB sticks should all work, as long as they are single or double ranked. I picked the Qimonda CF-5 sticks, because I got my hands on them very fast. Samsung ZCCC and some sort of MDT memory should work fine, too, but are more uncommon. If you are lucky, try some old fat TSOP DIMMs, not the new BGA ones. Just for knowledge enrichment


----------



## rhkcommander959

Thanks guys, food for thought. I will dig through what I have and play around with it this winter


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aleslammer*
> 
> Just playing, something different got to give it try.
> 
> Was happy with this
> http://hwbot.org/submission/3021890_
> 
> Although Mr. Scott has a better run with a little less core.


Thanks for the reminder - Need to run my 148 with this bench.









@ rhkcommander959: Not sure if the CFX3200 chipset would support 8GB's worth myself but why not try it and see? The worst that could happen is it wouldn't work.

As for the dead Nvidia board, do you know why it died?


----------



## SwishaMane

For old time sake, a little 3dmark06. 11.1k


----------



## rhkcommander959

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> For old time sake, a little 3dmark06. 11.1k


Thats about the best I ever got with s939. Nice going








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> @ rhkcommander959: Not sure if the CFX3200 chipset would support 8GB's worth myself but why not try it and see? The worst that could happen is it wouldn't work.
> 
> As for the dead Nvidia board, do you know why it died?


I would have to try playing with it again, i dont recall. Might just need caps or something


----------



## Kryton

If it's a bad cap(s) those aren't hard to fix at all, just need the right equip to do it with.
I've replaced caps and MOSFETs on a few of my DFI's and recently snagged a pair of Experts, one had a bulging cap that I replaced but the other was OK.

Still testing these and so far it's not looking bad at all.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> Thats about the best I ever got with s939. Nice going


My record is 11.6, but I SWEAR one time i broke 12k on s939, i just didn't log it.







I think it was a GTX 285, beast mode.


----------



## mathesar

Is it possible to run 4GB Ram on a Socket 939 mobo without stability issues? We have a 2nd PC here mainly used for Minecraft (AMD X2 4800+ / 2GB / GTX 260 / Asus A8N-SLI Premium mobo / Win 7 32bit).

I've never been able to get it stable with 3 or 4 dimm slots occupied (random BSOD) currently running 2 x 1GB Corsair PC3200 and have another 2 sticks of the same make / model ram, all 4 sticks pass memtest86 tests.

Google seems to lean towards a chipset limitation on the Asus mobo but just wanted to check in with you guys for confirmation


----------



## rhkcommander959

it can be a pain, but it is possible. I have run 4x1gb of ocz - had to start with one dimm to get the proper timings lined up. Took some playing with.

I'll see if I can find my old screenshots, I know I got pretty close to or past 12k with peltier and I want to say dual (maybe single) HIS 3870s voltmodded. My 3800 delidded would run nice and stabled at 3.2

Started finding some old screenshots









With crucial tracers 4x512 I was getting roughly 550 with 2.5-3-3-7 with cl2. Under fans of course







Loosening things up I know I got past 600 but it was still slower according to memtest IIRC

Lowest superpi 1m I can find a ss is only 28.704s though









I have an old water fountain, I might have to mod that to feed into the peltier and get the old rig running again. Not as good as phase but it would be cheap. I think that 3800 may be dead though


----------



## seaFs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mathesar*
> 
> Is it possible to run 4GB Ram on a Socket 939 mobo without stability issues? We have a 2nd PC here mainly used for Minecraft (AMD X2 4800+ / 2GB / GTX 260 / Asus A8N-SLI Premium mobo / Win 7 32bit).
> 
> I've never been able to get it stable with 3 or 4 dimm slots occupied (random BSOD) currently running 2 x 1GB Corsair PC3200 and have another 2 sticks of the same make / model ram, all 4 sticks pass memtest86 tests.
> 
> Google seems to lean towards a chipset limitation on the Asus mobo but just wanted to check in with you guys for confirmation


First thing is to lower the memory divider to 166MHz. If that runs good with 4 DIMMs, you can start tweaking. Mostly it's the timings. Always use CR 2T, sometimes you need to increase CL, too. Maybe a bit more Vcore might to give the memory controller a bit mor stability.
If nothing helps, then you can use "DDR clock skew", but it's a pain (aka trial and error) to configure it properly.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> First thing is to lower the memory divider to 166MHz.


On most decent 939 boards, if 4 dimm's are used the board defaults to 166 (DDR333) anyways. I think that was the mentioned chipset limitation.


----------



## CrazyMonkey

Ok guys, got hands on an ASUS A8N SLI Deluxe and put it to good use... First tests of the day with it...



Later on the day without teaks, just a suicide shot. Seems that the Opty is way past his sweet moments...







Old sweet 9800GX2 seems to still have it...


----------



## Mr.Scott

You can do better.









Temps are way high for your clock/voltage.
Ram is loose and slow.


----------



## CrazyMonkey

RAM is not the best for the job... Crucial Value... Got some GSKILL one here, so I'll use them later on. It seams that the CPU needs loads of Vcore to do better. I need to have a lot of patience with it.

The temps is due to poor thermal paste quality, already changed it to a better one. Also changed the VGA for an 8800GTS 512MB so the Southbridge wouldn't be in so much stress!


----------



## Mr.Scott

Board is screaming for the Premium bios mod...........or even just a modded Deluxe bios. I can provide either when you're ready.


----------



## CrazyMonkey

Witch one is better for my needs?!


----------



## Mr.Scott

The Premium bios has more to offer as far as control options.








What you need to know upfront is, once you go to the Premium bios, there is no coming back.
I can get back to the original bios, but the average Joe won't be able to.
Realistically, there would be no reason to go back anyways.


----------



## CrazyMonkey

Not a problem, can you please send me the Premium one?! Cheers


----------



## Mr.Scott

Yup. Lemme know if you need help.









Pre.zip 471k .zip file


----------



## CrazyMonkey

Hummm... Cannot flash it with AWDFLASH says the bios does not match the system... Any thoughts?!


----------



## Mr.Scott

Yes you can. Force it.
I wouldn't give it to you if it didn't work.









On your bootable flash drive, unpack the bios and the flash utility.
Boot to your flash drive. At the prompt type awdflash 1302.bin /cks/sn/py/cc/cd/cp/wb/ld/qi/f
DO NOT power off the machine. When it finishes remove your flash drive and re-boot entering the bios and selecting 'load optimum default settings'.
Save and re-boot. You can now set up your OC again.


----------



## Aleslammer

Good/Bad weekend, bent a pin on my Opty 150 (hopefully a ground). Have two sets of G.Skills, 2GB set generic and a 1GB set TCCDs. Thought the TCCDs were installed surprised when I saw the 2GB in CPUz, even got by Bones in wPrime with Opty 180 although might not have that long of a warm fuzzy feeling tell it's beaten


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aleslammer*
> 
> Good/Bad weekend, bent a pin on my Opty 150 (hopefully a ground). Have two sets of G.Skills, 2GB set generic and a 1GB set TCCDs. Thought the TCCDs were installed surprised when I saw the 2GB in CPUz, even got by Bones in wPrime with Opty 180 although might not have that long of a warm fuzzy feeling tell it's beaten


Good run Ale, now I've work to do..... If I ever get around to it.









Maybe the 150 will be OK, I'm still trying to track down an 150 or higher Opty model myself, the 152 I had sometime ago was toasted by my Ultra-D frying a MOSFET and just can't seem to find one - I do have a 146 and 148 but really want one of the 15x model chips.


----------



## Aleslammer

Thanks (Im sure you'll find the time)150 up, hard to find had to buy a MB with the one I have, had a friend give me a couple 939s surprised when one turned out to be a 4600 Toledo, got something to play with this weekend.


----------



## Kryton

I too had a bit of luck with the pair of Experts I picked up last week, these came with chips and one was a X2 4400, the other was an X2 4800, both being Toldeo chips.









The 4800 seems to be decent but ATM the 4400 looks like a dog, takes alot of voltage to even reach 2.8GHz and runs kinda hot too. May delid it to see if it does better or not.


----------



## rhkcommander959

Well I started rebuilding my old cfx3200 setup. Going retro all the way









Can't locate the original cold plate for my peltier setup. It was for socket A so it had a big hump I had removed, but I let someone help and it got screwed up. I was just gonna lap it for a couple millenia, they used a grinder







. I found a machine shop in town that could probably square it up but it is hiding in the computer room... I used a smaller plate but it didn't bolt on, just sandwiched between the block and processor. Delidded with that mess sliding around... No thanks.

I found a bar of copper that measures the right size ~ 2.5" square by 1/4". But it has a bunch of crap stamped into it. I think I can lap it down and carefully use my drill press to add eight holes into it... And I'd have to drill them twice so I can recess the hardware like the stock coldplate did. Big undertaking but I think I can do it









I've got 5 939 motherboards right now. Only two I know are working - 1x DFI CFX 3200, and 1 Abit Fatal1ty AN8-SLI

Two probably dead (but hopefully salvageable) mobos - my original DFI CFX 3200, a DFI NF4 (whatever the sli with only 4 sata is _) that was fully unlocked - looks like maybe the copper jumper broke and that is why it died, and a sapphire pc-a9rd480adv with swollen capacitors.

I have at least 5 processors. All dual core. I can still remember all the things I bought and when... Looks like 3 3800's or 2 and a 4400?, and two opty 165s probably. I was always too cheap to get the higher models and they clocked just as good usually. Looks like one of the delidded is dead, one of the 8-pin circuits is damaged. Anyone tried replacing them?

Slightly off topic-
Forgot I had this, I found an athlon 5000 x2 black edition, that should unlock into the fx5000. It was hanging out with the 939s









_

Edit:
Running DDR444 with 4x1gb ocz pc3500 at 2.5-3-3-7. Not sure what IC these guys have. They are rated for 3-3-3-8. 3V, factory recommends 2.7, but I have them under fans too. OCZ4332048PFDC-K

Opteron is at 334x9 with 1.55v. Haven't tried tweaking it much, thats all I could get from memory so far. Will try to get a HDD running so we can get some real benches going. I want to get an SSD on this rig again, I hooked up my main with windows 7 and it ran well


----------



## CrazyMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Yes you can. Force it.
> I wouldn't give it to you if it didn't work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On your bootable flash drive, unpack the bios and the flash utility.
> Boot to your flash drive. At the prompt type awdflash 1302.bin /cks/sn/py/cc/cd/cp/wb/ld/qi/f
> DO NOT power off the machine. When it finishes remove your flash drive and re-boot entering the bios and selecting 'load optimum default settings'.
> Save and re-boot. You can now set up your OC again.


Thank you for this... I've already updated the BIOS but I am still having the same issue as the DFI...

I have made it to 2.6Ghz but it gives me error on one of the cores (normaly the 1st core). it does not matter if I add more voltage or not. It seems that the CPU is way pass its better days...


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyMonkey*
> 
> I am still having the same issue as the DFI...
> 
> I have made it to 2.6Ghz but it gives me error on one of the cores (normaly the 1st core). it does not matter if I add more voltage or not. It seems that the CPU is way pass its better days...


It would seem to be that way.


----------



## rhkcommander959

Is it delidded, maybe one is running hotter. I have had cores disappear on extreme overclocks (they came back when lowering things down)


----------



## CrazyMonkey

No, it's not. The temps do not go above 77°C so their OK... I really think it's far gone this CPU


----------



## rhkcommander959

stability falls off after 60ºC IIRC for 939, and I've seen delidding drop temperatures a ton. The IHS is rather thick and uneven, plus the TIM underneath is junk. Might be worth a shot. Either way your temps will drop


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyMonkey*
> 
> No, it's not. The temps do not go above 77°C so their OK... I really think it's far gone this CPU


Oh, my heart is hurting... 77c way too hot.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyMonkey*
> 
> No, it's not. The temps do not go above 77°C so their OK... I really think it's far gone this CPU


Had no idea it was running that hot. Most definitely a problem. Need to keep that under 55c bra.


----------



## CrazyMonkey

Took the IHS from both (170 and 175) optys and temps dropped nicely. Regarding the overclock, been digging around the web and found out that both steppings that I've got are crappy for it...

CCBWE 0543TPMW for the 175
CCBWE 0551UPMW for the 170

Changed it to the 175 and it clocks worse than the 170...











Buahahaha


----------



## Mr.Scott

Whats with the weird memory timings?
That's not normal.

What's the load temp now? You're not even close to the voltage you'll need for 3 gig.


----------



## CrazyMonkey

That's from My Geil One 2-5-2-2 DDR500 but the mobo does not like them. Every time I try to input the timings manually it doesn't boot.

Temps are under 56ºC while on load.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Ahh, I understand now.
Geil lists there timings in a bad order. The TRAS is 5. Thus, you should see 2-2-2-5 in CPUz when set correctly.
After you boot into windows at 2-2-2-5, you can use A64 Tweaker to set your CAS to 1 and it'll run fine.


----------



## rhkcommander959

Up the voltage if your cooling can handle it. 1.5+ I think. Mr. Scott is right - those settings are at least in part why the mobo doesn't like them







..

Cut the copper bar down for my DIY coldplate. Just need to lap and drill it now


----------



## oz120

So I have an old Abit A8N-SLi motherboard. That I have been thinking of doing some volt modding on and hunting down some CPUs and a DICE pot and seeing how far I can push things. Thank for all the info you guys have already posted it is helping me get on my way with things.


----------



## seaFs

Finally found the text about the drawbacks of CR 2T.

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=55939
https://web.archive.org/web/20060707013212/http://www.lostcircuits.com/advice/bios3/6.shtml

Very tech-heavy post in just a few words, but maybe someone is interested in the backgrounds of the "evil 2T".


----------



## SwishaMane

Just picked up an eVGA GTX 950 from here on the forums, and beat my long standing 3DMark06 record on s939. Wonder if she can OC a little?


----------



## gasparspeed

Hey guys, i'm going to rebuild my 939 this weekend and i wanted some advice on the RAM since it's going to be a gaming/benchmarking machine (with a 8800GTX and wanting to play LoL and maybe try Crysis 1 all of that running on Windows XP Home Edition







).

So, I was planning on run only on 2x512MB Ballistix Tracers modules (@ DDR-400 2.5-3-3-7 *or lower* 1T since in my NF4 Infinity i can't change FSB), but then i was wondering if adding 2 more sticks of 512MB OCZ Gold (DDR-433 2-2-2-5) to have 2GBs would be better, but i would lose the ability to run at 1T (AFAIK).

What should i do? 2GB or 1T?


----------



## mattliston

more ram. the obvious advice is to get all matching modules, but you should be okay. manually set timings to the slower of the 2 sets, leave all other settings on auto, and reboot. Should run memtest for a few hours to verify it is stable before continuing to use the machine


----------



## zila

If you're gonna run 4 sticks of ram you want matched sets. 1T is preferred on 939. But if you have to run 4 sticks then 2T is what you'll have to run. I have run 4 matched sticks of my Ballistix ram DDR500 (PC4000) at 2.5-2-2-5 2T with tight sub timings and they were okay.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattliston*
> 
> more ram. the obvious advice is to get all matching modules, but you should be okay. manually set timings to the slower of the 2 sets, leave all other settings on auto, and reboot. Should run memtest for a few hours to verify it is stable before continuing to use the machine


I only have 2 sticks of OCZ and 2 sticks of Ballistixs, actually i don't even think i have 4 sticks of matching DDR1 :/
I've got a matching kit of 3 x 1GB modules, but they are those lame DDR-400 3-4-4-8 modules that are slow as hell. Two of them actually have custom heatsinks on them. Maybe i should use them and just run 2Gb and 1T?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> If you're gonna run 4 sticks of ram you want matched sets. 1T is preferred on 939. But if you have to run 4 sticks then 2T is what you'll have to run. I have run 4 matched sticks of my Ballistix ram DDR500 (PC4000) at 2.5-2-2-5 2T with tight sub timings and they were okay.


I can't run the Ballistix at DDR-500 but i guess that at 400 they should do 2-2-2-5 (like my OCZs do) easily.
I also have a set of Corsair XMS PRO that do DDR-400 @ 2-2-2-5 on stock DDR VDIMM (i think it was 2.6V)
Also, is it possible to run 1T with 4 sticks? Or is it 100% impossible.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Also, is it possible to run 1T with 4 sticks? Or is it 100% impossible.


Yes it is. A couple of us are running 8GB DDR400, (4 x2GB ECC RAM) and we're at 1T. Thanks to seaFs for dialing the timings in.









Can't OC very much (in my case not at all because its unnecessary) but others are reporting small OCs with our mobo / RAM combo.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Yes it is. A couple of us are running 8GB DDR400, (4 x2GB ECC RAM) and we're at 1T. Thanks to seaFs for dialing the timings in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't OC very much (in my case not at all because its unnecessary) but others are reporting small OCs with our mobo / RAM combo.


I don't think i will OC the RAM, so i should just try running 1T with 4 modules right? Are any special timing settings i should use for that?


----------



## SwishaMane

Like was already mentioned, run at the slower timings of the two sets. I would keep everything stock @ 2T for initial boots, OS install, etc to make sure everything is stable. THEN, possibly make the jump to 1T and just see what happens. In my experience after all these years, its just a luck of the draw if it'll be stable or not.

Maybe a CPU revision related thing? I know we needed E6 CPUs to boot the ECC RAM, but IDK if the E6 rev is helping with 1T on 4 modules or not... Cant hurt to try, unless it BSOD during OS install, LOL


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Like was already mentioned, run at the slower timings of the two sets. I would keep everything stock @ 2T for initial boots, OS install, etc to make sure everything is stable. THEN, possibly make the jump to 1T and just see what happens. In my experience after all these years, its just a luck of the draw if it'll be stable or not.
> 
> Maybe a CPU revision related thing? I know we needed E6 CPUs to boot the ECC RAM, but IDK if the E6 rev is helping with 1T on 4 modules or not... Cant hurt to try, unless it BSOD during OS install, LOL


I think the FX-60 is an E6 CPU, so i will just try but only after installing OS. It would be funny if it BSOD while trying to install XP, even more when i have to install it on a slow Maxtor IDE HDD


----------



## SwishaMane

Jeezoww, make a guy shiver... MAXTOR & IDE, uuuuuggggghhhhh.

Its actually quite impressive how powerful s939 still is. 3ghz dual core, 8GB DDR400, GTX 950, oldschool Crucial M4 SSD. Thing has some massive performance. Streaming 1080p60 like its nothing. s939 on bossmode!


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Jeezoww, make a guy shiver... MAXTOR IDE, uuuuuggggghhhhh.
> 
> Its actually quite impressive how powerful s939 still is. 3ghz dual core, 8GB DDR400, GTX 950, oldschool Crucial M4 SSD. Thing has some massive performance. Streaming 1080p60 like its nothing. s939 on bossmode!


It's the only drive i have that hasn't tried to auto-destroy itself like my old SATAII Barracuda did.
Also yeah, my FX-60 @ stock paired with 4GB of lame DDR-400 3-4-4-8 RAM and a HD 7470 (also a lame graphics card) ran BF3 at 30FPS (And actually i used it as my main machine to play BF3 during 1.5+ years)
939s still kick ass.


----------



## seaFs

4 double-ranked DIMMs with Command Rate 1T is possible, BUT requires lots of tweaking. If you don't have the time and nerves to try every single memory-related option (especially TRef), then run 2T.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> 4 double-ranked DIMMs with Command Rate 1T is possible, BUT requires lots of tweaking. If you don't have the time and nerves to try every single memory-related option (especially TRef), then run 2T.


I don't have lots of time, so IDK if i should get into tweaking the RAM... Is the difference between 1T and 2T very big?


----------



## Dynomutt

Still running the Classic DFI Lanparty NF4 SLI-DR with an Dual Core Opteron 175 currently clocked at 2.3 Ghz, 2Gb Gskill DDR500, and a Radeon HD5770

**** must be 10+ years old now,

I remember when it was top of the line and the old DFI street forum was awesome.

its now on Ubuntu because for some reason the board wont boot the Windows 10 installer. (Tried USB and Network install and it just sits at the Win 10 Logo)

I know it can run Win 10 because I put a HDD with a Win 10 install already on it and it booted just fine and was usable, unfortunately I managed to bork that install somehow, dying HDD I think!

It just occured to me now that it just might not like the 64bit installer, will try 32bit tonight. wish me luck!

I also had a San Diego based Athlon 64 which I upgraded to the Opteron 175 and bought a DFI UT RDX200 dirt cheap to house the San Diego chip.

sold it to a mate and its still in service to this day.

Socket 939 = Legend lol

thanks for reading

Dyno


----------



## seaFs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Is the difference between 1T and 2T very big?


There is a performance drop, not much to worry about, but sometimes it is slightly noticable (when switching between many applications in Windows, minimum FPS in CPU-heavy game scenes).


----------



## Herm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> There is a performance drop, not much to worry about, but sometimes it is slightly noticable (when switching between many applications in Windows, minimum FPS in CPU-heavy game scenes).


From the benchmarks I did with memtest86+ when installing 4x4Gb ECC chips (FX-60 & A8N32SLI-Deluxe) , at SPD timings (dual channel) :
- 2T : 2 104Mb/s
- 1T : 2 600Mb/s

May have some impact on software relying heavily on multiple internal memory transferts, but only once loaded from a storage device (HDD or even SSD) !


----------



## agentx007

Testing some stuff (with improved air cooling) :

Strained Silicon 130nm FTW


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Herm*
> 
> From the benchmarks I did with memtest86+ when installing 4x4Gb ECC chips (FX-60 & A8N32SLI-Deluxe) , at SPD timings (dual channel) :
> - 2T : 2 104Mb/s
> - 1T : 2 600Mb/s
> 
> May have some impact on software relying heavily on multiple internal memory transferts, but only once loaded from a storage device (HDD or even SSD) !


WAIT WAIT WAIT...

So, you just said you got 16GB bootable on that motherboard?

What dimms?


----------



## Herm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> WAIT WAIT WAIT...
> 
> So, you just said you got 16GB bootable on that motherboard?
> 
> What dimms?


Hi there,

I can confirm that works... I'm still using that computer as my main computer !

Take a look here .

Herm


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Herm*
> 
> Hi there,
> 
> I can confirm that works... I'm still using that computer as my main computer !
> 
> Take a look here .
> 
> Herm


Unbelievable! You are a Gawd here. While i have no need to go through the hell of acquiring, and re-doing everything (BIOs settings etc) this is wonderful news. Somehow i missed that discussion when it happened.

I may find a set of these and go through the hassle eventually, BUT, Id really want to compare benchmark results before i dove. AIDA64 essentially. And 1T is a demand of mine. Id rather keep my 8Gb at 1T then do 16Gb at 2T, if it was required... I need the performance for my HTPC.

The bragging rights tho bruh, dang...


----------



## Aleslammer

16G, something new to try (missed it too).

Benched a few 939s last month, while playing tried a couple of Quadro FX 4600s (G80) that wouldn't run in SLI on my X58 so put them on the A8N32 and all worked as advertized so ran 3DM Vantage with 8 gigs and got this after a few tries.

http://hwbot.org/submission/3075667_aleslammer_3dmark_vantage___performance_2x_quadro_fx_4600_8053_marks


----------



## Vario

Would there be any interest from some of you 939 enthusiasts in picking up my collection of 939 stuff? I have two dead 939 boards, one is a biostar NF4 SLI A9 and the other is a Asus A8NE. The biostar is missing caps because I never got around to recapping it, the A8NE died suddenly a month ago. Maybe 3 or 4 total 939 CPUs that probably all still work, a 939 True 120 copper heatsink, and a couple sticks of DDR memory. One of the 939 is a golden Opteron 144 CABGE that was capable of 2.7 ghz overclock when I was last messing with it (8 years ago), I think the other ones are a san diego, and two venice. I think the San Diego is like a 2.6Ghz and the Venice are 1.8 but I don't know the specifics for these off the top of my head.
I have the capacitors for the Biostar but didn't get them installed because my cheap weller iron wouldn't melt the lead free solder. I have no idea what is wrong with the A8NE, it fails to boot.


----------



## Herm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Unbelievable! You are a Gawd here. While i have no need to go through the hell of acquiring, and re-doing everything (BIOs settings etc) this is wonderful news. Somehow i missed that discussion when it happened.
> 
> I may find a set of these and go through the hassle eventually, BUT, Id really want to compare benchmark results before i dove. AIDA64 essentially. And 1T is a demand of mine. Id rather keep my 8Gb at 1T then do 16Gb at 2T, if it was required... I need the performance for my HTPC.
> 
> The bragging rights tho bruh, dang...


Thanks for your enthousiasm !

I don't use AIDA64, but I've the previous Everest freeware version, and did the benchmark with it :

Everest v2.20.405

Background task : SpeedFan

RAM Settings : Motherboard & DIMMs SPD default. ECC enabled.

RAM 16Gb @ 1T
Memory Read : 5474 Mb/s
Memory Write : 2285 Mb/s
Memory Latency : 61.9 ns

RAM 16Gb @ 2T
Memory Read : 5227 Mb/s
Memory Write : 1891 Mb/s
Memory Latency : 65.8 ns

Some improvements @ 1T, especially at write benchmark...


----------



## SwishaMane

Our 8GB ECC kits have ECC disabled. Im currently doing 5989MB/s read, 5839MB/s write, 51ns latency. Win7 64-bit using approx. 1.2GB RAM, so plenty to share right now. lol

RAM not even OC'd...









EDIT: Stepped up my 3DMark06 score. GTX 950 @ 600mhz, 11,811.


----------



## rhkcommander959

Whoa whoa whoaaaa... Can we get some part numbers on these ECC sticks that are working? I would kill for 939 with 8 or 16gb of mem. I keep forgetting what to look for, my bad. Are you all using the A8N32SLI-Deluxe motherboards or have you tested others with success, DFI maybe?

Willing to try it on my dfi cfx3200, I also have an Abit an8 sli board still rocking, a few dfi nvidia boards that may or may not work. Oh and a Sapphire A9RD480 Adv that needs caps replaced (bulging)

Made more progress on the cold plate for my peltier setup. Mounted it to the water block after drilling, have a little more work to do but it sits nice and flat. Might have to order the proper screws, I did find stainless steel 4-40 3/8 which is similar to what swiftech used the first time. I grabbed some 1/4"ers to do fitting tests. Hopefully my 3.25 stable 3800x2 still works, some of the chips on top don't look so good









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> I only have 2 sticks of OCZ and 2 sticks of Ballistixs, actually i don't even think i have 4 sticks of matching DDR1 :/
> I've got a matching kit of 3 x 1GB modules, but they are those lame DDR-400 3-4-4-8 modules that are slow as hell. Two of them actually have custom heatsinks on them. Maybe i should use them and just run 2Gb and 1T?
> I can't run the Ballistix at DDR-500 but i guess that at 400 they should do 2-2-2-5 (like my OCZs do) easily.
> I also have a set of Corsair XMS PRO that do DDR-400 @ 2-2-2-5 on stock DDR VDIMM (i think it was 2.6V)
> Also, is it possible to run 1T with 4 sticks? Or is it 100% impossible.


Those ballistix tracers get hot, stick some small fans on them and you can push them hard AND they will last a lot longer. A lot of them died from being hot, at least one of the heat sink designs they used didn't sit flat on the memory either, providing no cooling.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> Whoa whoa whoaaaa... Can we get some part numbers on these ECC sticks that are working? I would kill for 939 with 8 or 16gb of mem. I keep forgetting what to look for, my bad. Are you all using the A8N32SLI-Deluxe motherboards or have you tested others with success, DFI maybe?


I can gladly pull the P/N from the dimms tonight for my 8GB kit. Herm has a link to his original posts w/ the P/N of the 16Gb kit he used, in one of the few posts before yours. We are all using the same mobo, the ASUS A8N32, as for the flavor, not sure if it matters. SLI deluxe / premium, etc. IMO, 8GB is the best bang for the buck. s939 just doesn't perform on par with most software or anything that could use 16gb of RAM, so its bordelrine futile to have in application. As for bragging rights tho, DAM, that would be sweet.









I'm completely fine with my 8GB, unless the 16GB kit could be procured for like $20 shipped, tops, lol

EDIT: OOOOOH, look what I found digging through my phone for pics... There you go buddy.


----------



## CrazyMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> I can gladly pull the P/N from the dimms tonight for my 8GB kit. Herm has a link to his original posts w/ the P/N of the 16Gb kit he used, in one of the few posts before yours. We are all using the same mobo, the ASUS A8N32, as for the flavor, not sure if it matters. SLI deluxe / premium, etc. IMO, 8GB is the best bang for the buck. s939 just doesn't perform on par with most software or anything that could use 16gb of RAM, so its bordelrine futile to have in application. As for bragging rights tho, DAM, that would be sweet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm completely fine with my 8GB, unless the 16GB kit could be procured for like $20 shipped, tops, lol
> 
> EDIT: OOOOOH, look what I found digging through my phone for pics... There you go buddy.


Quimonda modules, made in Portugal.... Hehehehe Still do not understand why they use the Malasya stickers on it!


----------



## seaFs

@commander: Theoretically the whole Aus A8N line should work with reg ECC DIMMs. I'e tested this on the A8N32-SLI Deluxe and on the A8N-E. Studies of manuals revealed the also the A8N-SLI Deluxe and Premium support ECC. DFI boards don't work at all, not even the Infinity NF4 that has a bugged ECC option. nForce3 boards don't seem to work (tested this myself with the legendary K8N Neo2 PE @ Rebelshaven modbios). Don't go for 4GB Viking DDR, because those are quad stacked/quad ranked modules, that are not supported by the Athlon64.

@Monkey: Fabrication and assembly are two differnet things.

@Swisha: 4GB UCCCs are very, veeery expensive and rare. I searched for them at ebay, cheapest I saw was 25€ for two sticks, shipping not included. They were used in Sun Fire X4200 (without M2 suffix) servers.. Maybe that helps. HP used them in their XW9300 Workstation.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> @commander: Theoretically the whole Aus A8N line should work with reg ECC DIMMs. I'e tested this on the A8N32-SLI Deluxe and on the A8N-E. Studies of manuals revealed the also the A8N-SLI Deluxe and Premium support ECC. DFI boards don't work at all*, not even the Infinity NF4 that has a bugged ECC option*. nForce3 boards don't seem to work (tested this myself with the legendary K8N Neo2 PE @ Rebelshaven modbios). Don't go for 4GB Viking DDR, because those are quad stacked/quad ranked modules, that are not supported by the Athlon64.


Actually i was wondering why noone had testedd 8GBs on DFI motherboards since there's the ECC option on my Infinity NF4... I guess i just found out why. But, I remember having also the ECC option on my ASRock 939NF4G-SATAII, maybe on that motherboard it may work? (i can't test it since i don't have the modules, but the option is there).

Also, very nice information you got there


----------



## rhkcommander959

Gotcha, sofar the only mobos found to work are the asus a8n's... Guess I will have to jump ship then









I have 4gb on the cfx3200, I guess I could stick the 4x512 ballistix tracers on the abit too. Really wish I could of done 8 on the cfx though

Thanks guys for the info


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> Gotcha, sofar the only mobos found to work are the asus a8n's... Guess I will have to jump ship then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have 4gb on the cfx3200, I guess I could stick the 4x512 ballistix tracers on the abit too. Really wish I could of done 8 on the cfx though
> 
> Thanks guys for the info


Oh no, the A8N. I remember mine went up in a puff of smoke. No rhyme or reason. Poof, gone.


----------



## Vario

Got an A8N that won't boot but is in perfect physical shape, Interested? Just want shipping + a few bucks. My last 939 system died last month so I am selling it all off.


----------



## mypickaxe

Not mre
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vario*
> 
> Got an A8N that won't boot but is in perfect physical shape, Interested? Just want shipping + a few bucks. My last 939 system died last month so I am selling it all off.


Not me, sorry. I eventually sold off all of the components from the system, save the case which I ultimately dropped down a flight of stairs by accident.


----------



## agentx007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Just picked up an eVGA GTX 950 from here on the forums, and beat my long standing 3DMark06 record on s939. Wonder if she can OC a little?


And now I tell U, that I beat your highest score by 2 points : http://www.3dmark.com/3dm06/17854240









Also :
Clawhammers (130nm rev. CG) can support ECC RAM, just not in Dual Channel








Proof : http://i.imgur.com/cOJMgQ6.png


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agentx007*
> 
> And now I tell U, that I beat your highest score by 2 points : http://www.3dmark.com/3dm06/17854240
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also :
> Clawhammers (130nm rev. CG) can support ECC RAM, just not in Dual Channel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Proof : http://i.imgur.com/cOJMgQ6.png


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agentx007*
> 
> And now I tell U, that I beat your highest score by 2 points : http://www.3dmark.com/3dm06/17854240
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also :
> Clawhammers (130nm rev. CG) can support ECC RAM, just not in Dual Channel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Proof : http://i.imgur.com/cOJMgQ6.png


Hmm...I see your 780 Ti and counter with two 7800 GTXs (not really all that far off, all things considered.)

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm06/256827


----------



## Kryton

You guys are gonna make me breakout the 165 and just go for it.......


----------



## agentx007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Hmm...I see your 780 Ti and counter with two 7800 GTXs (not really all that far off, all things considered.)
> 
> http://www.3dmark.com/3dm06/256827


OK, I tweaked few things.
Complete 3DMark 03-06 :
3DMark03 : LINK
3DMark05 : LINK
3DMark06 : LINK


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agentx007*
> 
> OK, I tweaked few things.
> Complete 3DMark 03-06 :
> 3DMark03 : LINK
> 3DMark05 : LINK
> 3DMark06 : LINK


Nice, I wish I still had my old system.


----------



## Wenty

I miss my 939 EPoX system


----------



## agentx007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Nice, I wish I still had my old system.


To have a complete set, here are results for later/latest 3DMark's :
Vantage P-Score : LINK
3DMark 11 P-Score : LINK
Ice Storm : LINK
Ice Strom Extreme : LINK
Cloud Gate : LINK
Sky Diver : LINK
Fire Strike : LINK
Fire Strike Extreme : LINK
Fire Strike Ultra : LINK

Hope someone will try to beat them


----------



## Herm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> s939 just doesn't perform on par with most software or anything that could use 16gb of RAM, so its bordelrine futile to have in application. As for bragging rights tho, DAM, that would be sweet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm completely fine with my 8GB, unless the 16GB kit could be procured for like $20 shipped, tops, lol


I agree with you SwishaMane... At first, it was just a challenge to see if what I read from datasheets were right... Then Ebay provided me some memory sticks I was able to afford.

Don't forget also that, if you intend to run Windows on a more than 3Gb (or so) memory computer, a "64 bits" system is required, or (as I do), a "32 bits" system with PAE enabled and a kernel patched to really use the hardware features that PAE provide.

No more use of a swap file, cache settings set to "System cache" in Memory usage (performance) to really make use of all the free ram (really help games with huge data files, nearly all is loaded only once from hard drive), and I'm a long time user of ramdrives !

8 Gb should be the sweet point though. I have to let ECC enabled for 16Gb or else there are sporadic bit errors (seen with memtest86) and I still don't know why... Maybe my board, maybe the CPU memory controller, maybe the ram sticks that don't like working all together ...


----------



## seaFs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Herm*
> 
> 8 Gb should be the sweet point though. I have to let ECC enabled for 16Gb or else there are sporadic bit errors (seen with memtest86) and I still don't know why... Maybe my board, maybe the CPU memory controller, maybe the ram sticks that don't like working all together ...


I ran into the same problem when I started to overclock the server DIMMs (4x2GB Qimonda). The solution is to play with DDR clock skew. The Auto setting is useless, a good starting point is to set 0 ps (zero picoseconds). Messing around with it for days helped eliminate all stability issues, but enabling ECC makes the memory instable again. I presume it's the overloaded (with data) electrical wires between the memory slots and the CPU socket.


----------



## rhkcommander959

What is the "best" a8n motherboard, the a8n32 sli?

I found a list...
http://www.asus.com/Static_WebPage/Windows_XP_AMD_939/


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> What is the "best" a8n motherboard, the a8n32 sli?


Yes.


----------



## Dynomutt

Has anyone been able to install Windows 10 on a S939 system? i get most of the way through install of 32bit version, (64Bit version just refuses to boot the installer) before it crashes with a BSOD at the end of installation (Getting Ready stage) I have installed windows 7 for now and runs perfectly but I would really like to run 10 on it.

specs

Opty 175
2Gb Gskill DDR500
DFI Lanparty NF4 SLI-DR
Radeon HD5770

Any idea's, anyone else care to share experience??

regards

Dyno


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agentx007*
> 
> OK, I tweaked few things.
> Complete 3DMark 03-06 :
> 3DMark03 : LINK
> 3DMark05 : LINK
> 3DMark06 : LINK


Hmm, gonna have to crank this rig up and break that 12k now... (gets off couch)


----------



## agentx007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Hmm, gonna have to crank this rig up and break that 12k now... (gets off couch)


Good luck









Here's screen of my settings with Cinebench R15 result : LINK
In 3DMark's the only thing that is different is little higher tRAS ("7" instead of "6"), rest is the same.


----------



## Kryton

You mean that's all you could get?









Here's mine: http://hwbot.org/submission/2750008_bones_cinebench___r15_opteron_165_90nm_154_cb


----------



## agentx007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> You mean that's all you could get?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's mine: http://hwbot.org/submission/2750008_bones_cinebench___r15_opteron_165_90nm_154_cb


Well, I'm happy about going over 3GHz on FX-60 without watercooling (I use TRUE with Delta FFB1212EHE)








I don't want to push it too hard since it's got an important job to do.

PS. Try benching Fire Strike Ultra on that 1GB of RAM


----------



## SwishaMane

Well, I couldn't break 12k with what little messing around I did. Actually lost 3DMark performance pushing GPU harder. It wasn't overheating by any means. 600Mhz performs better than 650Mhz on my GTX 950... Hmm. I did get my RAM up to 215Mhz, which improves system performance pretty well. 6400MB/s vs 59xx.

I think my system is almost capped.







I know the CPU did not like 3.1Ghz, but is incredibly stable at 3.0. Oh well, still an amazing machine.


----------



## agentx007

GPU score go down, because CPU didn't liked it (basicly : More data for GPU, that he can't provide).
What cooling R U using ?


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agentx007*
> 
> GPU score go down, because CPU didn't liked it (basicly : More data for GPU, that he can't provide).
> What cooling R U using ?


Water on CPU


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agentx007*
> 
> Well, I'm happy about going over 3GHz on FX-60 without watercooling (I use TRUE with Delta FFB1212EHE)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't want to push it too hard since it's got an important job to do.
> 
> PS. Try benching Fire Strike Ultra on that 1GB of RAM


Even I know that ain't happening.









I don't even have the later/latest GPUs to try it with.

As for the score coming down Swish, it's probrably due to bottlenecking.


----------



## Aleslammer

My best 06 score.
http://hwbot.org/submission/3076550_aleslammer_3dmark06_2x_quadro_fx_4600_12415_marks

Maybe get Bones to puts some volts to that golden 165 and put a couple 8800s in the MB 


----------



## Kryton

Now _that_ I could do.


----------



## technodanvan

I'm slowly putting together a 939 rig so I can be as appreciative as you fine folks. Got a bunch of memory and processors from a member here and am collecting some old Raptors too. Won a DFI nf4 board (Ultra-D, I think? No tags on it. Certainly isn't the SLI-DR) on eBay that had an unknown processor, 2 gigs of OCZ EL, and what looked like a stock AMD Opteron cooler. Cracked the cooler off - and boy, was it caked on - and there is a 4800+ X2 sitting in there. Randomly checked online and I'm seeing the median price for these is somewhere around $40-50.

Why are these going for so much?

Anyway, hoping to have a PSU I can devote to this thing in another couple weeks so I can start playing. I need to find a short one that uses an 80/92mm fan on the end instead of a typical 120.


----------



## zila

Ultra-D's were/are the very best top of the line motherboards for 939 socket. They are becoming scarce and people still love to play with 939 so the prices are holding. You can find them cheaper once in a while but mostly they are in the $50.00 range and up depending on condition and if they come complete with the retail package. There are other versions of this board that can and do sell for much, much more but that's for collectors of fine boards.









I have 3 Ultra-D's and one SLI-D(same board really)complete with processors and ram and graphics cards. They all behave differently and I love them all.


----------



## technodanvan

Actually I'm trying to find those rarer versions of the board! Gonna need patience I suppose, that's why I jumped on this one when I saw it. I was a heavy contributor at DFI-Street when it was a thing, and for some reason nostalgia hit me a couple weeks back. Figured I'd rebuild my first complete computer with a few upgrades I could never afford at the time...and some of which didn't exist. We'll see, kinda depends on what pops up on eBay.

I was actually surprised at the going price of the processor, much more so than the board at least. $50 for an Athlon X2 seems a little high, but I suppose if they aren't being sold very often I guess I can see it holding a little value. I think the combo for me was around $85 for the board, 4800+ X2, heatsink, and 2 gigs of RAM. I'm fairly pleased with that, though of course I have no idea if it works yet. Looked up the cost of my first build (with a few mistakes) and it was $1700 before I fixed said mistakes. $85 doesn't seem too bad now!











Of course the V1000 I found cost almost as much as a brand new one back in 2005, but it's about as pristine as can be had so I think it's worth it. I've got a half dozen other 939 processors and kits of memory to play with too, so I'm pretty excited to get back into it.

Once this is done I may take another step or two back and find an Ultra B - is there a Socket A Appreciation Club?


----------



## Hueristic

IIRC only N2 had a DFI Venus here


----------



## SwishaMane

$50 for a s939 X2 aint nothing bro. Almost 3 years ago now, i acquired my Opty 185 for $100+. Cant recall exactly, but it wasnt cheap. Its also extremely nice, and of a stepping known to be the highest tier in overclock-ability. You can say its cherry picked, although ill never go through the insane process of REALLY capping her out.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> $50 for a s939 X2 aint nothing bro. Almost 3 years ago now, i acquired my Opty 185 for $100+. Cant recall exactly, but it wasnt cheap. Its also extremely nice, and of a stepping known to be the highest tier in overclock-ability. You can say its cherry picked, although ill never go through the insane process of REALLY capping her out.


I sold my Opty 165 in 2010 I think for $150. Was a golden chip though. 3Ghz undervolted, pulled almost 3.4 on my A8N32, never got to really play with my Ultra D but I'm sure with the right board it was a great clocker. Scaled really well with voltage past 3Ghz. Shoot 2.8 was stable rock solid 24 hours with only 1.15v.


----------



## agentx007

4800+ was one of the first Dual Core's from AMD (and is the fastest Athlon 64 x2 for S939), that's why it can be quite expensive.
The only better CPU's than it (stock), were Opteron 185 -mentioned before, and Athlon 64 FX-60.

U plan to mod Ultra-D to Ultra-SLI ?


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> I sold my Opty 165 in 2010 I think for $150. Was a golden chip though. 3Ghz undervolted, pulled almost 3.4 on my A8N32, never got to really play with my Ultra D but I'm sure with the right board it was a great clocker. Scaled really well with voltage past 3Ghz. Shoot 2.8 was stable rock solid 24 hours with only 1.15v.


From what I understand, the Opty's didn't like high volts to get high clocks. Which is why I don't go for crazy clocks higher than the 3ghz I'm at now. On one click higher than stock vCore too, which i think is like 1.375?? I'm undoubtedly not going to feed 1.5+v to my chip (even with watercooling).

And I don't want to risk ANY hardware or my OS install for the crashes that WILL occur from the testing, lol. I've HAD my system running good for a couple years now, and the benefits far outweigh the risk. Maybe with another HDD I would do some benching, but eh.


----------



## technodanvan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> IIRC only N2 had a DFI Venus here


I could have sworn I had one when I was in college. No idea what happened to it, but I don't have it now.







Considering how few were made I doubt I'll find one, and even if I did it'd probably go for near original price if it's in good shape. I'd still prefer an Expert over the standard SLI-DR though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> $50 for a s939 X2 aint nothing bro. Almost 3 years ago now, i acquired my Opty 185 for $100+. Cant recall exactly, but it wasnt cheap. Its also extremely nice, and of a stepping known to be the highest tier in overclock-ability. You can say its cherry picked, although ill never go through the insane process of REALLY capping her out.


Hey, that was forever ago in computer hardware time!









It's cool to see this stuff still hold value over the years. it's just funny when you see $50 getting you a G3258 at the very least now.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agentx007*
> 
> 4800+ was one of the first Dual Core's from AMD (and is the fastest Athlon 64 x2 for S939), that's why it can be quite expensive.
> The only better CPU's than it (stock), were Opteron 185 -mentioned before, and Athlon 64 FX-60.
> 
> U plan to mod Ultra-D to Ultra-SLI ?


If I end up settling on this board I probably will, but not right off the bat.


----------



## agentx007

Short video (because I can do it







) :
FX-60 @ 3GHz vs. Crysis Full HD -


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agentx007*
> 
> Short video (because I can do it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) :
> FX-60 @ 3GHz vs. Crysis Full HD -


Very nice


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agentx007*
> 
> Short video (because I can do it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) :
> FX-60 @ 3GHz vs. Crysis Full HD -


Great video! I was going to try Crysis 1 on my FX-60 (at stock) but my 8800GTX's Accelero Xtreme fans died :/
Looks like it doesn't run as bad as i thought (but i guess that's because you're running a 780 Ti







)

EDIT: Wait, 8GB @ 466Mhz CL2.5? That's very nice...


----------



## agentx007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Great video! I was going to try Crysis 1 on my FX-60 (at stock) but my 8800GTX's Accelero Xtreme fans died :/
> Looks like it doesn't run as bad as i thought (but i guess that's because you're running a 780 Ti
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Well, GTX 780 Ti is bored in this game with this settings (I hoped AA:16xQ would make it sweat more, but 780 didn't even reach 70C :/).
CPU Bottleneck at it's finest.
I bet 4k resolution would make GTX 780 Ti a run for it's money








Sadly, my 16:10 monitor doesn't cooperate well with Downsampling and beta recording software...

EDIT : Yup - 8GB 466MHz Cl2.5 and 1T Command Rate to top it off


----------



## seaFs

I guess I need to pull out my rig, too. I remember running CL2.5 with 243MHz, but not sure if it was benchstable. These server Dimms are awesome


----------



## technodanvan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> I guess I need to pull out my rig, too. I remember running CL2.5 with 243MHz, but not sure if it was benchstable. These server Dimms are awesome


Are these the ones that only work in the Asus A8N series?


----------



## agentx007

Well, in theory, they should work with all S939 MB's with ECC support.
RAM I use (based on Samsung ZCCC chips), needs ECC Registered support (and that is A8N series only, if I read forums right).


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agentx007*
> 
> Well, GTX 780 Ti is bored in this game with this settings (I hoped AA:16xQ would make it sweat more, but 780 didn't even reach 70C :/).
> CPU Bottleneck at it's finest.
> I bet 4k resolution would make GTX 780 Ti a run for it's money
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sadly, my 16:10 monitor doesn't cooperate well with Downsampling and beta recording software...


Killer! I'd like to see how it does with a dx12 game.


----------



## SwishaMane

I want to see BIOS settings that get that RAM stable at those freqs and timings...


----------



## agentx007

It's called ECC Correction








It stands for : *E*rror-*C*orrecting *C*ode.

Basicly : Errors are THE Thing that makes memory "unstable".
And what ECC does, is repair or "correct" those errors as they come by (using the information provided by additional 8 bit's in rank data width).

That's why my memory can be clocked that high, and using only 2,6V on DRAM (standard is 2,5V btw.).
I got all ECC Correction options for it, Enabled.

Memory I own is a Registrated type as well, so it has a register between memory chips and IMC (but that's less important for stability, and more important for max. capacity).

Hope this aswers question above









PS. This RAM is HOT as HELL (in heat/cooling way) - active cooling recommended.
480MHz @ CL2.5 CR1T with 2,65V : LINK


----------



## seaFs

ECC made my rig run worse, so I turned it off. But my Athlon64 has a crappy memory controller, can't even get 4x1GB UDIMM CL2 to work.

Maybe you can run the DIMMs at 500MHz just like me. If you're getting 3GHz and DDR500, let's do a shotoout








I'm running 273x11 CPU, memory divider 12.

Aaaand yes, active cooling is a must.


----------



## Herm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agentx007*
> 
> PS. This RAM is HOT as HELL (in heat/cooling way) - active cooling recommended.


Hi agentx007,

I guess you're quite right... I've retried to do some memtest86 with my ECC ram. Last summer, when I received the beasts, I wasn't able to pass the whole tests ECC disabled using the 4 DIMMs without errors, and now, ... I can do one pass flawlessly, but not two ! Only one thing have changed: it's winter here, it's cooler in the room !

My case have temp sensors, so I've put one between two RAM DIMMS... more than 70°C ... system idle ! I don't dare to look any more the display when I really use the computer...

Memory cooling isn't an option... But which one to choose (and which ones are still available) ? I was looking at arctic RC turbo module for the fans & RC pro DIMM heatsink. Would these do the job ?

Herm


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Herm*
> 
> Hi agentx007,
> 
> I guess you're quite right... I've retried to do some memtest86 with my ECC ram. Last summer, when I received the beasts, I wasn't able to pass the whole tests ECC disabled using the 4 DIMMs without errors, and now, ... I can do one pass flawlessly, but not two ! Only one thing have changed: it's winter here, it's cooler in the room !
> 
> My case have temp sensors, so I've put one between two RAM DIMMS... more than 70°C ... system idle ! I don't dare to look any more the display when I really use the computer...
> 
> Memory cooling isn't an option... But which one to choose (and which ones are still available) ? I was looking at arctic RC turbo module for the fans & RC pro DIMM heatsink. Would these do the job ?
> 
> Herm


I feel blessed with my case and watercooling combo and setup. With my rad vertical in front of the case, the two 120mms pushing air into the case, this air goes right across the mobo (including RAM) so active RAM cooling wont be necessary for me. Its a noticeable breeze...

ECC RAM OC'ing commences tonight... I'll do performance comparisons between ECC on and off at current setting to see the impact, and if negligible, Ill see how far she can go.


----------



## bfedorov11

My old school runs with an ultra-d.

opty 150 and 2x 6800gs unlocked but stock speeds. http://www.3dmark.com/3dm05/1612923
opty 165 and 1 7900gt http://www.3dmark.com/3dm05/2119220

I bought a ton of stuff for a vintage 939 build a few months ago. Found a guy that used to have a hardware website and he filled a box for me. It was like christmas. Got a expert and ultra-d, only used for a few hours, 4800+, bunch of mushkin bh5, the 991440 utt set, aftermarket coolers. I would like to find some old lian li cases, but people want like $200 for them. Any ideas for a new but vintage looking case?


----------



## technodanvan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bfedorov11*
> 
> I bought a ton of stuff for a vintage 939 build a few months ago. Found a guy that used to have a hardware website and he filled a box for me. It was like christmas. Got a expert and ultra-d, only used for a few hours, 4800+, bunch of mushkin bh5, the 991440 utt set, aftermarket coolers. I would like to find some old lian li cases, but people want like $200 for them. Any ideas for a new but vintage looking case?


Wanna give up that Expert?









I've got an old Lian Li V2000 that's in pretty good condition if you wanna go big! It's missing a couple of the front bay covers and some of the hardware, otherwise it's pretty nice. In use for the next week or so, but I was planning on letting it go for around $75 plus whatever shipping is. I have the original box still so shipping is pretty safe.

Otherwise I thought Lian Li still made some fairly boxy models that would closely (ish) resemble those of a decade ago.


----------



## bfedorov11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *technodanvan*
> 
> Wanna give up that Expert?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got an old Lian Li V2000 that's in pretty good condition if you wanna go big! It's missing a couple of the front bay covers and some of the hardware, otherwise it's pretty nice. In use for the next week or so, but I was planning on letting it go for around $75 plus whatever shipping is. I have the original box still so shipping is pretty safe.
> 
> Otherwise I thought Lian Li still made some fairly boxy models that would closely (ish) resemble those of a decade ago.


That case is massive. Did you run a loop in it? It would probably cost a lot to ship across country.

I saw your post and thought about posting, but I don't know if I can part with it. It took me a long time to find one that wasn't an insane ebay price. I found the guy on reddit hardwareswap. Have you tried there?

I have the lian li that they sold with the mach1 lian li kit. It has an old 478 system in it now. I'll probably move it to an inexpensive case and use it for the 939. I think my father still has my ancient kingwin aluminum case. I might have to go reclaim it.

Have you decided what card you're going to use?


----------



## agentx007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> I feel blessed with my case and watercooling combo and setup. With my rad vertical in front of the case, the two 120mms pushing air into the case, this air goes right across the mobo (including RAM) so active RAM cooling wont be necessary for me. Its a noticeable breeze...
> 
> ECC RAM OC'ing commences tonight... I'll do performance comparisons between ECC on and off at current setting to see the impact, and if negligible, Ill see how far she can go.


Which ECC RAM U will be using for OC ?
Qimonda CF-5 ?
Samsung ZCCC ?


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agentx007*
> 
> Which ECC RAM U will be using for OC ?
> Qimonda CF-5 ?
> Samsung ZCCC ?


I have the Qimonda set like seaFs. Maybe Ill have detrimental results, but at least I'll try.


----------



## agentx007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Maybe you can run the DIMMs at 500MHz just like me. If you're getting 3GHz and DDR500, let's do a shotoout
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm running 273x11 CPU, memory divider 12.


In early OC experiments, I did do 3GHz/500MHz : LINK








It wasn't 100% stable tho :/ (probably too low Vcore - didn't checked with higher...).

@up
Good read about ECC OC : LINK


----------



## technodanvan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bfedorov11*
> 
> That case is massive. Did you run a loop in it? It would probably cost a lot to ship across country.
> 
> I saw your post and thought about posting, but I don't know if I can part with it. It took me a long time to find one that wasn't an insane ebay price. I found the guy on reddit hardwareswap. Have you tried there?
> 
> I have the lian li that they sold with the mach1 lian li kit. It has an old 478 system in it now. I'll probably move it to an inexpensive case and use it for the 939. I think my father still has my ancient kingwin aluminum case. I might have to go reclaim it.
> 
> Have you decided what card you're going to use?


Negative - I just bought the case last year on eBay for a decent price and never really had a use for it. Have a large media server (and folding machine, this week) running in it right now. This may have been a "plus" model but the card holder and PCIe fan are missing. No extra drill holes or anything like that, so it's ready for new mods if that was your intent.

If you're interested shoot me a PM, I'd rather see someone from here take it than give it up on eBay. We can figure something out I'm sure.

Haven't tried reddit...I should really check that out sometime.


----------



## seaFs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agentx007*
> 
> In early OC experiments, I did do 3GHz/500MHz : LINK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It wasn't 100% stable tho :/ (probably too low Vcore - didn't checked with higher...).
> 
> @up
> Good read about ECC OC : LINK


All this Qimonda CF-5 stuff started here









They key to high clocks with 4 DIMMs is not VCore, but DDR Clock skew. Play with it ... much... very much. It saved all my problems. The golden thing of DFI NF4 is TRef, the golden thing of A8N is DDR Clock skew.

I pushed 2x2GB CF-5 till 265MHz (sync to HTT) stable! I guess it was 3-3-3-8 2,75V CR1. I can't remeber it right, it's two years ago when I discovered this for myself. But running 4x2GB is much harder, if not impossible. I need to run it async to HTT, otherwise I get bluescreens before the desktop shows up. No amount of tweaking solved it. I guess it's a signal interference issue inside the mainboard layers. Too much load and information to transfer. But that's normal, even with nowadays systems. Maybe I swap my 4400ü against a 3700+ a start playing again, in case I find some time. Let's see...
By the way... tighest timings I could run with CF-5 was 200MHz 2-3-3-5, 243MHz 2.5-3-3-5, 250MHz 3-3-3-5, all slots populated. It's only CL and two sub timings that change.
What is your ZCCC able to do?


----------



## agentx007

Well, when Dual Cored S939 CPU is clocked at 3GHz and U don't go high enough with Vcore (I am using Air Cooling on it), PC will be crashing regardles of RAM settings.

They are 99% stable for 240MHz frequency with CL2.5.3.3.7 CR1T @ 2,6V.
I didn't play with "DDR clock skew" setting... will try it tho - thanks for tip









EDIT :
Checked few settings.
1) I discovered that ECC is important for my chips stability.
Without it, memtest86+ 5.01 shows lots of memery errors (on otherwise stable when ECC ON, setting).
2,75V without ECC = LOTS of errors. With 2,65V and ECC = None
2) ECC doesn't like high voltage on RAM (or my IMC dosen't like it) - 2,7V is highest it can tolerate without random BSOD's (temps may be a problem tho).
3) This RAM (at least with all 4 slots populated), prefers lower timings above high frequency to achieve max performance (500MHz is highest Frequency it can do in Dual Channel).
4) Clock Skew helps stabilise RAM - my [AUTO] setting used [450]ps Delay, BUT on [300]ps - RAM was more stable.
To me Skew is as importnat, as secondary timings, like tRC, tRFC, tRRD.
5) Didn't try 4GB configuration yet, but that will have to wait - other things to do.


----------



## agentx007

Sorry about post under post.




GPU utilisation 95-99%








CPU Bottlenecking is overrated


----------



## pez

That's great lol. It's good to finally see 2K and 4K become 'more' of a norm.1680x1050 and 1080p were always too CPU dependent.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agentx007*
> 
> Sorry about post under post.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GPU utilisation 95-99%
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CPU Bottlenecking is overrated


Socket 939 @ 4K...

10/10 would see again.


----------



## agentx007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> That's great lol. It's good to finally see 2K and 4K become 'more' of a norm.1680x1050 and 1080p were always too CPU dependent.


FYI : I don't have 4k screen, I use Downsampling to get as close to native 4k as possible, for free.

Why not use DSR (Dynamic Super Resolution) ?
Because it sucks if U have 16:10 monitor (like me), and U want to record videos for You Tube using ShadowPlay software.

Interesting thing :
After I recorded video from before, I checked if GTX 780's 3GB VRAM can handle true MSAA x8 (ie. 8xQ setting) in 4k.
It can (!), but Really barely (VRAM usage ~2,9GB in the scene I use) :




@down Thank U


----------



## pez

Still, I applaud you for your effort







.


----------



## kwikgta

I have really enjoyed following this thread, and you guys have got me to thinking. I scrounged through all my boxes of parts in the attic today and came up with everything I need to put my legacy 939 system together, everything except the card which I just ordered from ebay. It will be used as a legacy gamer and backup to main system








1) Processor = FX60
2) Motherboard = a8n-sli deluxe
3) Memory = 4 x 2gb sticks of Gigaram PC4000
4) Graphics = BFG 8800 GTX OC
5) HDD = 4 x Raptors in raid 0
6) Case = Old benching station that I haven't used in years.
7) Optical drive = Lite On DVDRW
8) OS = Vista Ultimate 64
9) Office = 2003 Professional
10) Games = Doom 3, Avp 2, Unreal Tournament 2004


----------



## technodanvan

^^^

Nice attic rig you have there! You sure about going with Vista? I'm torn between XP Pro x64 and Windows 7 myself.


----------



## kwikgta

I have them all but I'm gonna use Vista since it's correct for the time period of when I first built that old system. I do prefer 7 though


----------



## SwishaMane

Vista is not an OS I would attach to a vintage s939. XP Pro SP3 for 32bit or Win7 for 64-bit... plain and simple.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Vista is not an OS I would attach to a vintage s939. XP Pro SP3 for 32bit or Win7 for 64-bit... plain and simple.


I totally agree.


----------



## technodanvan

If only it was as simple as buying a new copy of Windows XP or Windows 7.


----------



## pez

Yeah, I'd also recommend XP or 7. If it's solely gaming and you can find access to XP, I say go XP all the way. That is unless you *need* the newer DirectX's







.


----------



## kwikgta

I'm gonna load Vista Ultimate but if I have problems, I have 7 ultimate on standby. On a side note, I located my old cpu cooler, a Thermaltake Silent Boost.....Cool!


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *technodanvan*
> 
> If only it was as simple as buying a new copy of Windows XP or Windows 7.


There are ways around that.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kwikgta*
> 
> On a side note, I located my old cpu cooler, a Thermaltake Silent Boost.....Cool!


You can do better than that. That cooler is neither silent or a boost.
A stock Opteron heatpipe cooler is better.


----------



## kwikgta

You can do better than that. That cooler is neither silent or a boost.
A stock Opteron heatpipe cooler is better.[/quote]

Mr. Scott, I have one of those laying around too







Pretty excited to bring this old system back from the dust!


----------



## pioneerisloud

My 939 system lasted through XP SP1, SP2, and SP3, then Vista x64 on release day (no bugs for me), then 7 x64 on release (also no bugs). Then I switched to my sig rig in what 2011 or 2012 (release day for SB), and been on this one since then (except GPU).

Nothing wrong with Vista so long as you install all the updates. It's the same thing as 7 under the hood just about. Maybe a TAD slower, but its nowhere NEAR the "turd" everybody makes it out to be.


----------



## kwikgta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> My 939 system lasted through XP SP1, SP2, and SP3, then Vista x64 on release day (no bugs for me), then 7 x64 on release (also no bugs). Then I switched to my sig rig in what 2011 or 2012 (release day for SB), and been on this one since then (except GPU).
> 
> Nothing wrong with Vista so long as you install all the updates. It's the same thing as 7 under the hood just about. Maybe a TAD slower, but its nowhere NEAR the "turd" everybody makes it out to be.


I never had any problems with Vista when I ran it, and when 7 came out, most of my friends referred to it as Vista Lite....lol


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kwikgta*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> My 939 system lasted through XP SP1, SP2, and SP3, then Vista x64 on release day (no bugs for me), then 7 x64 on release (also no bugs). Then I switched to my sig rig in what 2011 or 2012 (release day for SB), and been on this one since then (except GPU).
> 
> Nothing wrong with Vista so long as you install all the updates. It's the same thing as 7 under the hood just about. Maybe a TAD slower, but its nowhere NEAR the "turd" everybody makes it out to be.
> 
> 
> 
> I never had any problems with Vista when I ran it, and when 7 came out, most of my friends referred to it as Vista Lite....lol
Click to expand...

Exactly! I even ran an nVidia GPU and HP printer on release day (the two drivers most plagued with problems supposedly), and I never had a SINGLE issue with Vista. Loved it over XP. 7 was just an improved Vista really.


----------



## Hueristic

Actually Vista SP1 replaced the dysfunctional kernel with server kernel and thats why it "Got Better". I can't believe how many people forget this.


----------



## technodanvan

I never had a problem with Vista, even on day one. Just took some work to make it a little snappier. Not a huge deal, certainly nothing to gripe about. But then I also don't really have a problem with Windows 10, so maybe I'm just easy going.

I still prefer the look of XP or 7 though.


----------



## rhkcommander959

Vista ran fine for me, but I always turned a bunch of crap off, modified settings, etc. Same with 7.

Cold plate is almost done, just have to do a little more lapping. Having to drill 8 holes spot on was pretty difficult, only fudged one


----------



## agentx007

Single Thread CPU vs. Crysis @ 4k and AA x16 with Very High Details + Shadow Play.
What can Possibly go wrong












It's not best experience in the world - I know, BUT still...


----------



## technodanvan

Now do it with a stock Sempron.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agentx007*
> 
> Single Thread CPU vs. Crysis @ 4k and AA x16 with Very High Details + Shadow Play.
> What can Possibly go wrong
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not best experience in the world - I know, BUT still...


lol, even single core 939s can handle 4K Crysis... Just watching your vids I just only want to slap my GTX 480 to my FX-60, overclock the crap out of it, and make it run Crysis until it burns









Now more seriously, I do want to see my 939 running Crysis, are you running a special Windows 7 install or just a normal Win 7 install?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *technodanvan*
> 
> Now do it with a stock Sempron.


The only 939 Semprons only run at 2Ghz stock speeds and have 256KB of L2 cache, i don't think that they can ever run Windows 7 decently


----------



## technodanvan

Oh come on, a stock Sempron on a clean Windows 7 install would work just fine...

...until you opened Google Chrome.


----------



## agentx007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> lol, even single core 939s can handle 4K Crysis... Just watching your vids I just only want to slap my GTX 480 to my FX-60, overclock the crap out of it, and make it run Crysis until it burns
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now more seriously, I do want to see my 939 running Crysis, are you running a special Windows 7 install or just a normal Win 7 install?


Normal Windows 7 SP1 with all updates installed (and working Windows Update - belive it or not...).
Takes a few minutes for it to load every little thing (like svchost.exe which crunches some things in the background after a while from start).

But other than that... nothing special.
Serious OC (stable 2,9GHz+ for 130nm with 1M cache isn't easy to do), with 4GB's of fast RAM, and a "OP OPGPU" to power things









Interesting stuff : Can't run AA 8xQ because I don't have enough VRAM (with 8GB of RAM it was "OK" to run it tho).

PS.
Resolution is 100% GPU "thing" (that's why GPU Utilisation went sky high on my GTX 780 Ti, when I set 4k instead of FullHD on OC'ed FX-60).

Comparison/quick links with FX-60 :
FullHD + 16xQ : 



4k + 8xQ :


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agentx007*
> 
> OK, I tweaked few things.
> Complete 3DMark 03-06 :
> 3DMark03 : LINK
> 3DMark05 : LINK
> 3DMark06 : LINK


Been doing the same here today.
Setup the 165 with one of my Experts, popped in one of my 8800 GTX cards and did some moderate tweaking - I can certainly get more from it once I get the card figured out, the 165 itself is good to go.

I'll give it another go later.


----------



## SwishaMane

This past week I just picked up a beigebox off craigslist. Mint and super clean, had a virgin eVGA 8800gtx in it. Older man who bought it new, never OC'd of course, never stressed... ooooh.


----------



## Kryton

Cool - I'm gonna set it up with my GTX 560-448 in a few and see what it does.









EDIT:
Didn't get to setup the 560-448 so went ahead and tweaked it further with the 8800GTX - Happy with the results.


----------



## SwishaMane

Anyone have a nice aftermarket air cooler for s939 laying around? Tower type. I don't need fans, just the cooler and mount. Getting rid of my watercooling in it. I have a small leak somewhere (CANNOT FIND). I'm having to fully re-fill my res once a month, and its getting boring. PLUS, the W/C is louder than if i just had a couple more fans. Thanks to a MCP355 thats velcro'd to the case.

lol


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Anyone have a nice aftermarket air cooler for s939 laying around? Tower type. I don't need fans, just the cooler and mount. Getting rid of my watercooling in it. I have a small leak somewhere (CANNOT FIND). I'm having to fully re-fill my res once a month, and its getting boring. PLUS, the W/C is louder than if i just had a couple more fans. Thanks to a MCP355 thats velcro'd to the case.
> 
> lol


I've got a Scythe Ninja-PLUS laying arround, still have the original mounting bracket (it's a PITA to install...) and also it's fan mounting hardware...


----------



## SwishaMane

Can you get me an exact model / pics? Im not worried about install hassle. This is going to be a "once and its done" type thing. Just gotta get the WC out this rig. Just not worth it anymore. What do you want for it?


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Can you get me an exact model / pics? Im not worried about install hassle. This is going to be a "once and its done" type thing. Just gotta get the WC out this rig. Just not worth it anymore. What do you want for it?


I belive it's the Ninja-PLUS Rev. B, no real pics right now beacuse it's stored on a friend's house, this weekend i could get some pics.
I actually don't know how much is worth, i would say like 10-15€ or something?

EDIT: Wow, i just saw you live in Indiana right? Shipping cost may get a little too high since i live in Ibiza, Spain :/


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Anyone have a nice aftermarket air cooler for s939 laying around? Tower type. I don't need fans, just the cooler and mount. Getting rid of my watercooling in it. I have a small leak somewhere (CANNOT FIND). I'm having to fully re-fill my res once a month, and its getting boring. PLUS, the W/C is louder than if i just had a couple more fans. Thanks to a MCP355 thats velcro'd to the case.
> 
> lol


CM 212 EVO mod brah.


----------



## SwishaMane

LOL gasparspeed, I seen that right after your second post.

Mr.Scott, you got one? I REALLY need to lock in an air cooler soon. Reason I need 120mm is because i have a couple Scythe GT's laying around...


----------



## cdoublejj

technically an am2 cooler should work. almost put an IAO on my sisters but, i know it won't OC further. oh 8gb of ram GTX480 and SSD should be enough.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Mr.Scott, you got one? I REALLY need to lock in an air cooler soon. Reason I need 120mm is because i have a couple Scythe GT's laying around...


I'm sure once you see the pic you can figure it out.








Stock 939 backplate. Cross bar holds the 212 down.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> technically an am2 cooler should work. almost put an IAO on my sisters but, i know it won't OC further. oh 8gb of ram GTX480 and SSD should be enough.


The problem with AM2 (or AMx coolers too) coolers are that the big ones usually need a backplate and those backplates use 4 holes, and AFAIK not all 939 motherboards do have the 4 holes (usually they use the 2 holes system but some of them also have 4 holes on it IDK why...)

EDIT:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> I'm sure once you see the pic you can figure it out.


That's what i'm talking about


----------



## SwishaMane

OMG. I was just digging through an old box and found some Corsair cooler I forgot about. I don't have the mounting hardware tho. And that pic really got me thinking...

Thank you Mr.Scott, Im trying to put together a mount for it right now.





Then I found this, but the little bracket it has isn't long enough for the heatsink.



Just need a cross bar and I think Ive done it!


----------



## rhkcommander959

Those crossbars are a bracket you get from a hardware store


----------



## SwishaMane

Im sourcing local junk around the house. I believe I'm successful. Found some of this random metal brackets.



Found a scrap mobo, but I don't have a cpu, so this is just a test.





Its amazing the already tapped holes in the bracket were a PERFECT fit for the gap between posts on the socket. Wow, got lucky. Now just gotta rip all the WC out and get this badboy in there. Yeah, its gonna face up instead of left... sucks.

Facing up, the width of this cooler may interferre with my active VRM fan. Might even touch VRM heatsink??


----------



## SwishaMane

Have you ever seen the entire water cooling setup come out in one piece? lol



Well, heatsink clears the VRM heatsink and RAM pretty decently. Im not impressed with temps, maybe need better cooler or tighter mount. Prime95 failed after like 5 minutes, max temp 58C. I'm kinda worried about it.





Mounted to board.



From outside complete case.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> Those crossbars are a bracket you get from a hardware store


----------



## rhkcommander959

Lol. Meant to say "mending bracket", for posterity and those not in the know.

http://homedepot.com/b/Building-Materials-Builders-Hardware-Mending-Plates/N-5yc1vZasc4


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> Lol. Meant to say "mending bracket", for posterity and those not in the know.
> 
> http://homedepot.com/b/Building-Materials-Builders-Hardware-Mending-Plates/N-5yc1vZasc4










Just messin with you man.


----------



## rhkcommander959

I'm still polishing off the rust... How'd I do?

It's been a while...


----------



## kwikgta

Well my ebay mobo died and I don't wanna put anymore money into this project, so I guess I will be putting the FX-60 up for sale


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kwikgta*
> 
> Well my ebay mobo died and I don't wanna put anymore money into this project, so I guess I will be putting the FX-60 up for sale


Dibz! For real tho, how did it die?


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kwikgta*
> 
> Well my ebay mobo died and I don't wanna put anymore money into this project, so I guess I will be putting the FX-60 up for sale


Sorry to hear it, I know you had plans for that chip.
Swish will put it to good use, I'm sure of it.

BTW, how are you liking the Tt X5 case?
Love mine.


----------



## kwikgta

The core x5 is the best purchase I've made in years. The room is fantastic


----------



## seaFs

I've found a bunch of those Samsung 4GB DIMMs "herm" uses for a reasonable price at eBay (30€ for four DIMMs). Waiting for the shipment now. Let's see, if I can get them to run 400MHz.


----------



## SwishaMane

I've passed on the FX-60. I only said that to get you guys goin, lol. I'm content with my opty 185. I wanna see his old FX-60 go to someone ready to go hard mode on a setup...

Let us know asap how those 4GB dimms are doin!


----------



## Herm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> I've found a bunch of those Samsung 4GB DIMMs "herm" uses for a reasonable price at eBay (30€ for four DIMMs). Waiting for the shipment now. Let's see, if I can get them to run 400MHz.


Welcome in the 16Gb Socket939 area !

I'm still using that computer with those 4x 4Gb DIMMs (congrats for the price, I hope shipping won't be too expensive too !), air cooled ...
and still without heat spreaders... really these beasts needs cooling, as summer is comming here... but I don't know what to use - and where to buy that is still available !

For the bios tweak, I'd be glad to know if your motherboard is able to boot with the default settings, or if, like me, the auto setting do a deadlock in dual channel mode.

Herm


----------



## seaFs

The moment you posted your results I wanted the DIMMs, too







Kudos to your effort and patience to find the correct memory arrangement that works with socket 939. Every now and then I had a look at eBay, but often the price wasn't right for something to play with. Often more than 50€ for 2x4GB...

Did you try a fan blowing over the DIMMs? It's kinda ghetto-style, but at least that helped cooling 4x2GB properly without a heat sink and doesn't cost a thing. Heat sinks on memory is mostly for the looks, if you asked me.


----------



## Agueybana_II

Found parts of an old build I thought I gave away! AMD 4000+, ABIT Fatality, OCZ3200 2GB.

Only missing a CPU fan to power it on, wondering if I should invest a few bucks to bring it back to life. This hasn't been powered since 2008 when I initially moved to the US. It has been sitting in static bag inside a box for years. A few years back I offer the components to a friend. I thought he took them but now trying to make space found the box.


----------



## Mr.Scott

That Abit board is a pretty board.
If all you need is a cooling solution, I'd put it back together.


----------



## zila

Oh man, is that the board with the OTES Cooler? If it is I just love that board.


----------



## Mr.Scott

The Fatality is the one with all the red LED's around the edges.
Had one. Overclocks ok, but it's no DFI.


----------



## zila

Gotcha.


----------



## Agueybana_II

I will spend the 10-20 buck on a CPU fan and see if it turns on. The I/O Shield is missing but I can live without it. This is the board http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813127206


----------



## zila

I love that board, it looks so cool.


----------



## SwishaMane

A friend of mine had that board back in the day. The LEDs dont mean crap when the cables are a birds nest... like his was, lol. Still has it too, but it's toast.


----------



## seaFs

Alright folks, the uber-DIMMs arrived today.
First impression: awesome... and heavy.



One Samsung DIMM feels like twice the weight of the less old Qimonda DIMM. Still impressive.
I experienced the same problems as herm. 166MHz, the AUTO problem in BIOS and only one DIMM for initial settings.
My first experiment was CL2.5 DR400... no chance. Stay tuned, but it doesn't look so good...


----------



## SwishaMane

Ugh, hopefully some clock scew adjustments can help and such. CL3 wouldn't be so bad if you can OC up to 220Mhz at least.


----------



## seaFs

It seems as if there is some sort of ... dunno how to name it.. preset issue in the BIOS.
When setting RAM Divider 200 or 183, there is no boot. with 166 there is boot. Now the RAM runs at 214,5MHz CL3, CPU 273x11=3003MHz. So far no errors, Prime95 custom Blend 15200 MB passed a quick 20 minutes run.

Maybe I can convince them to run CL2.5. Active cooling is present and the DIMMs become hand-warm, warmer than the Qimonda stuff. This is gonna be a challange.

But, hell yeah, 14435 MB free memory look so damn cool in the task manager


----------



## SwishaMane

See, I could do that. Right now with the 8Gb Qimonda setup, Im holding a stock 200Mhz, with 3Ghz clock on CPU. So youre 215Mhz at 3.03 would be SWEET for me. Double the RAM, and SLIGHTLY better performance.

Mine's just a HTPC, so I'm content with what I have, but IF I could go 16GB, I'd be happy to give away my 8GB to someone here to make the jump. The cost is going to hold me back.

Could you please double post the make and model #s of these dimms, or get a nice close up shot of one? I'll save an eBay search and keep an eye out for a set and see what happens in the future.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Ugh, hopefully some clock scew adjustments can help and such. CL3 wouldn't be so bad if you can OC up to 220Mhz at least.


CL1 trumps all other settings.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Ugh, hopefully some clock scew adjustments can help and such. CL3 wouldn't be so bad if you can OC up to 220Mhz at least.
> 
> 
> 
> CL1 *trumps* all other settings.
Click to expand...

Making memory performance great again?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Making memory performance great again?


DDR1 mem bandwidth is crucial as you know.







Just making a comment while having morning coffee. Of course everyone knows you need to have CR1. before starting sub timings.

I actually miss the days of matrixing settings for optimization. Lol the newer systems I don't even bother with. I keep telling myself I'm going to break out the old 165 and post the 400 HT I could run but I get nothing accomplished anymore.







I'm procrastinating going out to do the brakes on the car right now. I better go on some other boards and find something to say so I don't have to get up and do real work!









BTW, thats not to say not too loosen all timings to get a base to work from.


----------



## seaFs

Well, when I tested the Qimonda DIMMs I actually wrote an excel data sheet with all the settings and bench runs for comparison.

But now... I need to find a program that uses more than 8GB to make it worth the effort







Heavy multitasking is not an option, because the CPU is too slow.
Well, further testing tomorrow. I have a plan for higher memory clocks: 286x10,5=3003MHz, Mem Clock limit 166 --> RAM divider 13 = 231MHz memory clock. maybe there is some way to get CL2.5. Dunno, is this even possible with standard UCCC? CL3 is so lame for <250MHz

@Swisha: I use exactly the same DIMMs herm suggested a few sites back. Have a look here
http://www.overclock.net/t/293448/the-socket-939-appreciation-club-and-knowledgebase-official/27100_100#post_24308241

I will check for the 1bit errors tomorrow.


----------



## rhkcommander959

I've got that motherboard, whichever one had the heatpipe. They are nice


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> @Swisha: I use exactly the same DIMMs herm suggested a few sites back. Have a look here
> http://www.overclock.net/t/293448/the-socket-939-appreciation-club-and-knowledgebase-official/27100_100#post_24308241


Ok, perfect. thanks!


----------



## seaFs

Now I'm at 273x11=3003MHz, Mem Limit 166 --> 214.5MHz RAM clock. Timings are 3-3-2-5, 2.6V, ECC disabled. So far no 1bit errors in memtest86 test #7.
Of course the Qimonda DIMMs are faster, and I have no application for 16GB, but... it now has become more of a server than a workstation


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Making memory performance great again?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Now I'm at 273x11=3003MHz, Mem Limit 166 --> 214.5MHz RAM clock. Timings are 3-3-2-5, 2.6V, ECC disabled. So far no 1bit errors in memtest86 test #7.
> Of course the Qimonda DIMMs are faster, and I have no application for 16GB, but... it now has become more of a server than a workstation


Very impressive what you guys have been doing. No need for ECC anyway and it gives a performance hit when used anyway.


----------



## seaFs

I noticed that I need better cooling. I reached 3,1GHz, but need over 1.4V to get it stable. Temps are at 55°C. Maybe it's time looking for a water cooling setup








Also a similar 4400+ with the same mem controller and fabrication code (LCB9E 0630 APMW) did 3.2GHz under water (30°C load). This would result in DDR458. Sounds tempting, if you asked me


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> I noticed that I need better cooling. I reached 3,1GHz, but need over 1.4V to get it stable. Temps are at 55°C. Maybe it's time looking for a water cooling setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also a similar 4400+ with the same mem controller and fabrication code (LCB9E 0630 APMW) did 3.2GHz under water (30°C load). This would result in DDR458. Sounds tempting, if you asked me


Sounds like a Sound plan!


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Herm*
> 
> Welcome in the 16Gb Socket939 area !
> 
> I'm still using that computer with those 4x 4Gb DIMMs (congrats for the price, I hope shipping won't be too expensive too !), air cooled ...
> and still without heat spreaders... really these beasts needs cooling, as summer is comming here... but I don't know what to use - and where to buy that is still available !
> 
> For the bios tweak, I'd be glad to know if your motherboard is able to boot with the default settings, or if, like me, the auto setting do a deadlock in dual channel mode.
> 
> Herm


WHAT THE!!!??? 16 GB!!!!?? It was big deal when SEAFs got us running on 8GB!!!?? with an SSD and GTX480 my rig is fully tapped out on CPU power. whats the fastest cpu i can get with ecc 8/16 gb setup?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> I noticed that I need better cooling. I reached 3,1GHz, but need over 1.4V to get it stable. Temps are at 55°C. Maybe it's time looking for a water cooling setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also a similar 4400+ with the same mem controller and fabrication code (LCB9E 0630 APMW) did 3.2GHz under water (30°C load). This would result in DDR458. Sounds tempting, if you asked me


Oh man 3.2 with 8gb or 16gb would be amazing, i'm tapped out at 2.6 ghz.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> WHAT THE!!!??? 16 GB!!!!?? It was big deal when SEAFs got us running on 8GB!!!??


This is how i feel... Imagine if by even 2010 we had acquired this info, how much more evolved we could have these machines... 32GB???


----------



## cdoublejj

To be honest I think 16gb is waste the cpu would be to slow for anything that uses that much ram. at least for the most part. i think 8gb is the sweet spot. I wonder if the first AM2 cpus had ddr1/ddr2 controller if they did i wonder if it's possible to adapter the socket like the did tualatin cpus and 771 to 775. i'm hurting for CPU power. maybe i can get a gold chip for cheap-ish that will support ecc ram.


----------



## seaFs

Well, I see no advantage in 16GB until now. I'm still struggling with stability and didn't even touch DDR clock skew (it's set to normal right now).
Again, the main problem is heat. There is almost no space between the DIMMs. Double-stacked RAM has the same thickness as normal DIMMs with heat spreaders.
The UCCCs don't even hold 240MHz... let alone 200MHz CL2.5.

But a nice try was 6GB RAM-disk + five instances of Rainbow Six Vegas 2... and over 3GB free memory









It is as useful as 16GB today in games. Almost none, maybe for better loading times.

32GB are not possible. There are no 8GB DIMMs. And if there were, the Athlon64 can't take it. Remember the 4GB Viking DIMMs (the "skysrapers")? Quad rank doesn't work on DDR1. The only way to get 32GB running is by using Opteron 2xx and Dual 940 boards. get two Opty 290, OC to HT222MHz and enjoy 3.1 GHz... if you get it running.

Well, sounds like another plan


----------



## SwishaMane

Do you think you'd get good performance just going 8GB on two dimms? You'd still have a nice 8GB of RAM in a system not designed to do that, AND might be able to squeeze good numbers by reducing stress on the IMC.

1T vs 2T debate...

Am I close?


----------



## seaFs

I can try, but as I wrote before, ONE single DIMM is limited to <240MHz. This RAM simply can't take high clocks.
Stress for the IMC is no argument, because reg DIMMs cause no stress to the memory controller, at least in terms of addressing. That's why 1T vs 2T is also no point, Command Rate simply lengthens the address signal from one clock cycle to two cycles, so there is also no need to use 2T with registered DIMMs.


----------



## rhkcommander959

Have you tried putting fans above the dimms? even without sinks it would be better


----------



## seaFs

yes, did that from the start.


----------



## rhkcommander959

Only other thing I could think of, is getting copper sheet in the approximate thickness of the gap between dimms, make your own shared heatsinks, thermal epoxy. It would be a PITA, but not so bad if there is a gap between the 2nd and 3rd dimms as there are on some 939s, then you only have to lock two together. Might try 2 sticks and see if they can go that much further with sinks?


----------



## gasparspeed

Maybe use higher-flow fans? Like Deltas, even tho they are REALLY loud.


----------



## thebufenator

So today I finally got the last piece of my retro rig in.

A64 x2 4400
Asus A8N sli SE
9800gtx+
4x 2gb of that ecc DDR
Ssd

Installed Windows with a single stick of RAM. When I rebooted after putting the ecc RAM in, I heard a few pops and the magic smoke smell :-(


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> Only other thing I could think of, is getting copper sheet in the approximate thickness of the gap between dimms, make your own shared heatsinks, thermal epoxy. It would be a PITA, but not so bad if there is a gap between the 2nd and 3rd dimms as there are on some 939s, then you only have to lock two together. Might try 2 sticks and see if they can go that much further with sinks?


My thought as well. But I would get the copper sheet that barely squeezes in and sandwitch the entire thing with side sheets and put 3 holes and run threaded rods through. One in the middle of the top of the pcbs and one on each side of the pcb's and finger tighten them regular thermal paste IMO should be used. I'm not sure about what shape would be optimal for the extruding sheets but maybe a line of slices and take each fin and bend it at a 45 degree angle and or run a heat pipe along the tops or water cool?


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thebufenator*
> 
> Installed Windows with a single stick of RAM. When I rebooted after putting the ecc RAM in, I heard a few pops and the magic smoke smell :-(


What dude? Magic smoke from what? You find the culprit?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> What dude? Magic smoke from what? You find the culprit?


Caps hopefully but IC smell is pretty rank


----------



## SwishaMane

Hopefully it was one of the RAM dimms only, and everything else is still good.


----------



## thebufenator

Two distinct pops from separate spots, but both near the Soutbridge SATA port area. No caps nearby









I don't see burn marks, but the first pop had a small amount of smoke. I won't be doing anything with the board until I can find any of the damage and try to repair it.

I am now on the market for a new A8N.


----------



## cdoublejj

i didn't think my 2gb modules were running too hot, no fan on them just the regular case air flow. whats the fastest 939 cpu that will do ECC ram?


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> i didn't think my 2gb modules were running too hot, no fan on them just the regular case air flow. whats the fastest 939 cpu that will do ECC ram?


Any E6 CPU, I think...


----------



## rhkcommander959

Stepping and luck were most important for ocing, unless you meant stock cpu speed for ecc compatibility. I've had opteron 165 cpus push further than higher clocked chips for example. An e6 with 2x1mb l2 cache and good stepping is your best bet. L2 didn't help that much afaik, but it did some. Iirc my 3ghz opteron was onpar with the 3.2ghz 3800x2...


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> Stepping and luck were most important for ocing, unless you meant stock cpu speed for ecc compatibility. I've had opteron 165 cpus push further than higher clocked chips for example. An e6 with 2x1mb l2 cache and good stepping is your best bet. L2 didn't help that much afaik, but it did some. Iirc my 3ghz opteron was onpar with the 3.2ghz 3800x2...


that is what i mean ecc compatibly, and 1mb x 2 cache and whatever clocks i can get stock or oc. oced on my current cpu is 2.6ghz. idk if i might find a good clocker here or on ebay if like for certain revisions?


----------



## TheN00bBuilder

I'm back! Pulled out my A8N32-SLI again for some overclocking. Set the Opteron 165 for a pretty weak 220/8x overclock, and it has never had a problem before. It resets and gives me a bad BIOS checksum error and starts searching for a floppy disk or CD drive? This sucks... It used to do 3 GHz!


----------



## seaFs

Memory configured correctly?


----------



## TheN00bBuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Memory configured correctly?


On manual with stock settings, so yes. Thinking of raising the timings slightly though.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheN00bBuilder*
> 
> On manual with stock settings, so yes. Thinking of raising the timings slightly though.


blow out mem chip sockets and hit them with an eraser.


----------



## Maximization

I am upgrading my sons computer. I am curious what an opteron 185 on a a8n sli deluxe mobo might go for with 4 gb ddr1 mushkin ram. I am thinking 200. Any opinions? Ebay has no opteron 185 so tough call


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> I am upgrading my sons computer. I am curious what an opteron 185 on a a8n sli deluxe mobo might go for with 4 gb ddr1 mushkin ram. I am thinking 200. Any opinions? Ebay has no opteron 185 so tough call


Depends on how long you want it to sit and who you're trying to sell to. For reference, I saw a 970 chipset AMD board, Phenom X3 720 and 4GB DDR3 go for $100 at work, but that was priced to sell.


----------



## SwishaMane

$120 tops. FX-60s are only $100 now-a-days. Im thinking $45 for mobo, $25 for RAM, and $50 for CPU.

Just my guess. I might be a little low on the RAM and CPU, but $200 is a no go. There might be people here interested in that combo also...


----------



## Maximization

120. Got it. I nver used marketplace. Will kit everything try to sell together. Will throw in 5870 to get 50 more on it.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> 120. Got it. I nver used marketplace. Will kit everything try to sell together. Will throw in 5870 to get 50 more on it.


You don't have the required rep to sell on the marketplace just yet, what is it (35) still?

That mobo is known to support 8GB+ of RAM, so like I was saying... someone here might be interested just to get 8+GB of RAM, those of us who are still behind the curve a little.


----------



## rhkcommander959

I would consider it if it's the a8n32 sli. Not sure I want to go for a a8n sli


----------



## Maximization

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> I would consider it if it's the a8n32 sli. Not sure I want to go for a a8n sli


Yeah its not that. It is the first sli mobo ever created. I will kit it all and flea bay it. Thanks!!!


----------



## SwishaMane

Does anyone know what these two things have in common??


----------



## seaFs

They are both Black Editions


----------



## SwishaMane

I'll give a hint... One will be used to save the life of the other. Can you figure it out?


----------



## pez

Drivers are only available on the floppy? That or the drive has some weird archaic piece that the card also has?


----------



## toughacton

Hmm I'm guessing you are either referring to BIOS flashing or perhaps you are stealing some part of the floppy power delivery... I know some old GPUs used berg connectors. I believe I had an old 6800 that used one.


----------



## SwishaMane

Alright cool, a couple guesses so I can reveal... Full in depth because I'm bored...

Ok, so I am a member of the Beigemodder's Club here on OCN. I only have one entry, but it was major fun overhauling an ugly old beige ATX tower with paint, oldschool setup, etc etc..

A couple months ago I was searching CL for my next beigemod, and ran across a NICE old Antec full ATX beast of a case. It had an Intel core2Duo, with 2GB RAM, the 8800GTX, Antec PSU, and some misc side stuff. $25!!! So I snatched it. Worked flawlessly, even tho I only wanted the case.

Here's where the story starts...

End of last week I decided to pull my 950 SC from the HTPC (s939 of course) and run this old 8800GTX for the nostalgia. I used to have two of these back in the day, full accelero cooler and all. Beast oldschool gear.

I opened an old GPU-Z from back then, and it opened populating almost all the data fields to show me what I had there. You know, clocks, how much memeory, die size, etc etc...

Restart the machine after driver install (let nvidia search machine for best driver) and now I get no video. And this is no video from BIOS to desktop. Not drver issue, but hardware video issue. Mobo still detects video because it boots, but no video is shown.

So long story short, I bricked my "new" 8800GTX just wanting to mess with it, and now need to remember how to, and do a blind Win98 boot, and nvflash, something I haven't done since 2010 probably...

So thats it, the floppy will be used to blind flash the GPU BIOS since it bricked JUST RESTARTING the machine... LOL Had something to do with GPU-Z accessing the rom, had to...

You might be wondering, "Yo Swish, how tf are you gonna get the BIOS to flash it?" Well, that was part of why I opened GPU-Z, I wanted to see what memory IC it used, since I think the two I had in 2007 -8 were identical cards to this one... MEANING, I've got a BIOS backup in my HDD somewhere.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Alright cool, a couple guesses so I can reveal... Full in depth because I'm bored...
> 
> Ok, so I am a member of the Beigemodder's Club here on OCN. I only have one entry, but it was major fun overhauling an ugly old beige ATX tower with paint, oldschool setup, etc etc..
> 
> A couple months ago I was searching CL for my next beigemod, and ran across a NICE old Antec full ATX beast of a case. It had an Intel core2Duo, with 2GB RAM, the 8800GTX, Antec PSU, and some misc side stuff. $25!!! So I snatched it. Worked flawlessly, even tho I only wanted the case.
> 
> Here's where the story starts...
> 
> End of last week I decided to pull my 950 SC from the HTPC (s939 of course) and run this old 8800GTX for the nostalgia. I used to have two of these back in the day, full accelero cooler and all. Beast oldschool gear.
> 
> I opened an old GPU-Z from back then, and it opened populating almost all the data fields to show me what I had there. You know, clocks, how much memeory, die size, etc etc...
> 
> Restart the machine after driver install (let nvidia search machine for best driver) and now I get no video. And this is no video from BIOS to desktop. Not drver issue, but hardware video issue. Mobo still detects video because it boots, but no video is shown.
> 
> So long story short, I bricked my "new" 8800GTX just wanting to mess with it, and now need to remember how to, and do a blind Win98 boot, and nvflash, something I haven't done since 2010 probably...
> 
> So thats it, the floppy will be used to blind flash the GPU BIOS since it bricked JUST RESTARTING the machine... LOL Had something to do with GPU-Z accessing the rom, had to...
> 
> You might be wondering, "Yo Swish, how tf are you gonna get the BIOS to flash it?" Well, that was part of why I opened GPU-Z, I wanted to see what memory IC it used, since I think the two I had in 2007 -8 were identical cards to this one... MEANING, I've got a BIOS backup in my HDD somewhere.


Wow, such a nice PC for 25$, that would be sold for at least 150€ here :/. I hope you can flash and revive that 8800GTX, i've got mine with an Accelero Xtreme fitted (but the fan's connector is dead







) and still it's a beast. It's running right now as a passive card in my dad's Phenom PC just to run dual monitors









PD: I thought the Floppy + 8800GTX reference pic was about both things operating very loud


----------



## pez

Man, it's crazy to think back on how crazy good the 8800GTX was at the time. Also, it's always a treat to have a reminder of how (not so) far Antec has come with cable management inside their cases







.


----------



## SwishaMane

Thanks everyone for playing, it was more of a joke (only because of the circumstances.)

THINKING to mod this case into my new main rig case, and ditch my tech bench (which is old and creaky) and get rid of that water cooling stuff. Side window is OBVIOUS, and I know someone who can professionally etch acrylic. Thinking to have the case powder coated through work. Will just have to have all mods done, and all parts quoted before I went for it.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Thanks everyone for playing, it was more of a joke (only because of the circumstances.)
> 
> THINKING to mod this case into my new main rig case, and ditch my tech bench (which is old and creaky) and get rid of that water cooling stuff. Side window is OBVIOUS, and I know someone who can professionally etch acrylic. Thinking to have the case powder coated through work. Will just have to have all mods done, and all parts quoted before I went for it.


Do you mind linking the mod thread you mentioned? I'm being lazy, I know, but I'm definitely curious to look through it







.


----------



## SwishaMane

No problem man, we need more people...

OCN Beigemodders Club - From Trash to Treasure


----------



## pez

Oh man I do remember that thread. I remember that repo_man mod







. I'll be solely a lurker, but I always like projects







.


----------



## rhkcommander959

I have a beige mod I should find all the photos. DonT know how far back they go.

You could always run dual graphics to flash the one card, I haven't had to use a floppy in at least a decade


----------



## nategr8ns

I'm so glad to see this thread still active.

My girlfriends laptop died last week, and being a computer science student and TA, having access to something basic that can SSH and compile little programs locally is kind of important.
Good thing I still have a bunch of my 939 gear!

She's now running my original MSI Neo4-f board with my first Opteron dual core, a 175. 4x1GB of matching OCZ DDR-500 (at 2T unfortunately, mostly because I was in a rush, but honestly I'm not sure this setup is capable of 1T). Then a lovely GTX 560 that I inherited.

Unfortunately the onboard sound is not functioning for some reason. Windows sees the sound card and seems to have the proper drivers for it (from MSI's site), but no audio out of any of the ports.

I would swap it with my DFI board, but I have had issues getting it to boot with certain RAM combos ever since the last 939 competition I participated in a few years ago. The weird thing is that removing a stick of RAM while the system is plugged in can sometimes boot the machine, which makes me fear for my prized OCZ sticks' lives.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*
> 
> I'm so glad to see this thread still active.
> 
> My girlfriends laptop died last week, and being a computer science student and TA, having access to something basic that can SSH and compile little programs locally is kind of important.
> Good thing I still have a bunch of my 939 gear!
> 
> She's now running my original MSI Neo4-f board with my first Opteron dual core, a 175. 4x1GB of matching OCZ DDR-500 (at 2T unfortunately, mostly because I was in a rush, but honestly I'm not sure this setup is capable of 1T). Then a lovely GTX 560 that I inherited.
> 
> Unfortunately the onboard sound is not functioning for some reason. Windows sees the sound card and seems to have the proper drivers for it (from MSI's site), but no audio out of any of the ports.
> 
> I would swap it with my DFI board, but I have had issues getting it to boot with certain RAM combos ever since the last 939 competition I participated in a few years ago. The weird thing is that removing a stick of RAM while the system is plugged in can sometimes boot the machine, which makes me fear for my prized OCZ sticks' lives.


Leave as is, she won't notice the difference.









DFI is for playing with anyway.


----------



## SwishaMane

Alright, so I need to do some extra research here. I threw that 8800GTX in my beigebox with the Intel Core2Duo, and it boots fine. I didn't get far enough to install the driver, but it displayed video at BIOS UNLIKE the s939 board... so I think the GPU is fine, but my 939 board was bugging. I think if I were to swap GPUs again, the s939 board would boot it, but maybe bug again on reboot.

Something about this feels familiar from my old days messing with 939 when it was remotely new. GPU wont post video, but board recognizes the GPU is there because no video beep code, and board seems to boot into windows, just without video.

I think its fine. Weird issue tho, considering the GTX 950 doesn't skip a beat ever. I run my HTPC daily, so if I were going to have GPU issues with this board, I would have already BEEN having issues...

Weird.


----------



## rhkcommander959

What mobo? If it has any pie 1x you could try that, would duck if the x16 slot is dead


----------



## SwishaMane

Its not dead at all. My GTX950 hasn't had a single glitch once, but the 8800gtx failed to show video on its first re-boot. BUT, the 8800 works fine in another rig. Weird. Its not important now, the 8800 was supposed to just be a toy that night, and I thought I bricked it. 950 is smashing it in this 939 setup.


----------



## Kryton

I have a GPU that does the same exact thing.
Works in one board but doesn't do jack in another, like the card is picky or something. I think what's happened with this one is someone may have flashed a different BIOS / BIOS mod into it and could have slightly skewed the card in the process somehow.

Other GPUs work fine with it so I know the board isn't a problem and the card itself works fine in boards it wants to work in so I can't call it bad either, just quirky.


----------



## mightyena

Hi, just seen this excellent thread, and thought I'd post my S939 experience! For a while I thought I might be the only one mad enough to still be using a 939 system these days!

Here's my backup system, dragged forth from the depths of time:

http://valid.x86.fr/p93wag

Currently being powered by an A64 X2 3800+ Toledo chip, that just about fails to hit 2.5GHz on stock cooling (strangely enough 2.45 is rock solid, yet at 2.5 windows won't even boot).

It's since had an upgrade to 4GB of RAM, and I attempted to replace the 3800+ with an Opteron 175 in an attempt to coax some more performance out of it, but it turns out the Opty is even worse than the Toledo it replaced. Seriously, this thing makes lemon chips seem like overclocking beasts! I can get 2.25GHz out of it on a good day, with 1.45V, but 2.3GHz won't even post below 1.55V, and even then usually gives a BSOD under any sort of load. What do you guys make of this, is something not right, or did I just lose the silicon lottery REALLY badly?

it's a CCBWE 0608GPDW if that helps.

Regardless, my next plan is to find myself a decent S939 cooler and try and OC the bejeezus out of the 3800+. Might even delid it, 11 year old TIM under the IHS can't be doing it much good... I practiced on the aforementioned frequency-challenged Opteron (figured it wouldn't matter if I killed it, seeing as the poor lamented thing was only capable of a 50MHz overclock), and it seemed to go fine, but the TIM was completely dried up. When I popped the IHS off, all the TIM came with it, there was none at all left on the die! No idea if the Opteron survived the process yet, physically it seems to be in good shape but I wouldn't trust it as far as I could throw it...


----------



## Mr.Scott

Either of those chips should do 2.8 without even thinking about it. You need a better cooler than stock for sure.


----------



## mightyena

That's what I thought, yet that opteron will _not_ go past 2.25GHz and remain stable... Temps are about 45-50C under load at that speed. Booting at 2.3GHz is fine, but as soon as I load the cpu it gets up to around 65C and then I get a BSOD (0x101: CLOCK_WATCHDOG_TIMEOUT). Anything else you'd suggest, or is this just a really sucky chip? I would have thought the Opterons would OC better than the A64s... Kind of annoying, since Socket 939 chips are stupidly expensive for some reason. Most of the people I've seen selling them are asking for more than a lot of Core 2 Quads are going for!

I do need to get a decent cooler though and see how much higher the 3800+ will go, it currently tops out at around 60C under load. I think 450MHz is a pretty decent OC for the stock cooler, can't wait to see how it performs with something a little meatier. Any particular suggestions on that front?


----------



## Mr.Scott

It's all temp related brah. You need to stay below 50c no matter what it's clocked at. The lower the temp, the higher the OC. It's that simple.


----------



## delshay

Does anyone know if FX-60 can handle 1 clock timings? ..ie CL1-1-1-3 if so I need help in editing motherboard bios to test 1 clock timings.

Bios can be downloaded from ASROCK website.

Motherboard: ASRock 939A785GMH/128M


----------



## Mr.Scott

It has nothing to do with the CPU. It's if the ram can handle it.
I haven't seen anything that can do a CAS of 1 ever. I do have ram that will do 1.5 all day long though.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> Does anyone know if FX-60 can handle 1 clock timings? ..ie CL1-1-1-3 if so I need help in editing motherboard bios to test 1 clock timings.
> 
> Bios can be downloaded from ASROCK website.
> 
> Motherboard: ASRock 939A785GMH/128M


I don't think that it's possible to run 1-1-1-3 timings on DDR1, but, it doesn't depend on the CPU, so yeah, in case it's doable, it should work with a FX-60.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> It has nothing to do with the CPU. It's if the ram can handle it.
> I haven't seen anything that can do a CAS of 1 ever. I do have ram that will do 1.5 all day long though.


AFAIK, it's possible but on SDRAM (and lower than PC100 IIRC). But that's on normal voltages, maybe with extreme high voltages and very good chips it may work, but also, AFAIK, socket 939 BIOS don't have the option to run timings @ 1, only some DFI BIOS had the option for 1.5


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> It has nothing to do with the CPU. It's if the ram can handle it.
> I haven't seen anything that can do a CAS of 1 ever. I do have ram that will do 1.5 all day long though.


fairly confident I have the ram that can do CL1.. memory modules here is something "never seen before" and is made purely for Extreme Low Latency.

4x1GB with 2-2-2-5 timing with "Enhanced Bandwidth" built into the SPD and is CL1.5 ready.
These memory modules are setting more than 2 world records for a "1GB" memory module.

The world record was held by the corsair PC-4400 with the lowest latency @223MHz for a "1GB" memory module. ..see link below.

Let me make this clear, it something never seen before.

http://www.pcstats.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=1862&page=7


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> I don't think that it's possible to run 1-1-1-3 timings on DDR1, but, it doesn't depend on the CPU, so yeah, in case it's doable, it should work with a FX-60.
> AFAIK, it's possible but on SDRAM (and lower than PC100 IIRC). But that's on normal voltages, maybe with extreme high voltages and very good chips it may work, but also, AFAIK, socket 939 BIOS don't have the option to run timings @ 1, only some DFI BIOS had the option for 1.5


normal voltage is 2.65v, but at full speed it needs 2.7v. Fastest 1GB memory modules in the world with "Low Latency".

I need the bios edited, who can help. it's not CL that needs to be changed it' also TRCD,TRP,TRAS & TRC. When set to a lower value I go's back to default which is slower.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> fairly confident I have the ram that can do CL1.. memory modules here is something "never seen before" and is made purely for Extreme Low Latency.
> 
> 4x1GB with 2-2-2-5 timing with "Enhanced Bandwidth" built into the SPD and is CL1.5 ready.
> These memory modules are setting more than 2 world records for a "1GB" memory module.
> 
> The world record was held by the corsair PC-4400 with the lowest latency @223MHz for a "1GB" memory module. ..see link below.
> 
> Let me make this clear, it something never seen before.
> 
> http://www.pcstats.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=1862&page=7


Sorry but you'll have to prove it.
Geil One is the only CL 1.5 ready memory ever released retail.

BTW, I am fully ready to prove DDR 500-550 @ CL 1.5 from retail ram I already have, so make your proof count please. That means a valid CPUz link.

Also, your link is more than a decade old. Those records have long been surpassed.
You can verify at HWBot.org


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> normal voltage is 2.65v, but at full speed it needs 2.7v. Fastest 1GB memory modules in the world with "Low Latency".
> 
> I need the bios edited, who can help. it's not CL that needs to be changed it' also TRCD,TRP,TRAS & TRC. When set to a lower value I go's back to default which is slower.


You do not need to mod the bios. You can do anything you need via software, including CL1 and all secondary timings.

A64 Tweaker


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Sorry but you'll have to prove it.
> Geil One is the only CL 1.5 ready memory ever released retail.
> 
> BTW, I am fully ready to prove DDR 500-550 @ CL 1.5 from retail ram I already have, so make your proof count please. That means a valid CPUz link.
> 
> Also, your link is more than a decade old. Those records have long been surpassed.
> You can verify at HWBot.org


I don't believe CL1.5 is detected correctly. If you can show me the fastest 1Gb memory module with a 2-2-2-5, I will upload link & obliterate it.

I have already save the file on my computer from CPUZ.

NOTE: These memory modules are preliminary, but just expect somethink never seen before.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> You do not need to mod the bios. You can do anything you need via software, including CL1 and all secondary timings.
> 
> A64 Tweaker


can you please show me the fastest "1GB" memory module speed with 2-2-2-5 settings & I will do my best & obliterate it..

a little info about me, see link below. ...worlds fastest 128MB EDO memory modules 28ns. Now it's coming to 1GB DDR "Ultra Low Latency"...

http://www.amiga.org/gallery/index.php?n=3692


----------



## Mr.Scott

How about a little sample before I do all the foot work? Say, 1GB @ DDR600 @ CL 2


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> How about a little sample before I do all the foot work? Say, 1GB @ DDR600 @ CL 2


it's nowhere that fast with 2-2-2-5 timings with 1GB stick, it's below 500MHz, but it's very impressive. Preliminary benchmark puts it somewhere between DDR500 & DDR550,but at a lower frequency, but this is changing all the time, this is why it needs to be tested at 1 clock cycle. The maximum frequency has been reach.

For "Enhanced Bandwidth" to work, most timing settings must be set to "auto", then it will boot into windows automatically with 2-2-2-5 with Enhanced Bandwidth kicking-in.

Most settings is controlled by the SPD

A64 Tweaker does not work with windows 7


----------



## Mr.Scott

There are quite a few 1GB sticks that already do CL 2 between DDR500 and DDR550.
I have some of those also.
For best memclk results you should be on XP, not W7.

How about a good pic of your stick?


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> There are quite a few 1GB sticks that already do CL 2 between DDR500 and DDR550.
> I have some of those also.
> For best memclk results you should be on XP, not W7.
> 
> *How about a good pic of your stick?*












I didn't think OCN was that kind of website.









Sorry Scotty, couldn't resist that one







.

Scotty has probably forgotten more than most people know about overclocking the 939's - I wouldn't dismiss anything he says on the subject.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> There are quite a few 1GB sticks that already do CL 2 between DDR500 and DDR550.
> I have some of those also.
> For best memclk results you should be on XP, not W7.
> 
> How about a good pic of your stick?


it's not all about CL. This is why you always see 2-x-2-5. "x" TRCD that has always been the problem.

This have changed & it's TRCD that is inficting heavy damage & driving up performance along with Enhanced SPD profile.

This is not helping me getting access to the lower timings.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Bud, I know.








Back to your original post. Show me this never before seen 1GB stick that you think will run CL1 or even 1.5 for that matter, because none exist in retail form.
Also, you have shown 0 proof that it even exists in 2-2-2-5 form.
Talk is cheap and you're wasting my time.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Bud, I know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to your original post. Show me this never before seen 1GB stick that you think will run CL1 or even 1.5 for that matter, because none exist in retail form.
> Also, you have shown 0 proof that it even exists in 2-2-2-5 form.
> Talk is cheap and you're wasting my time.


+1

@delshay

I think i've only seen 2 stick on my whole life (DDR1) that _maybe_ could do CL1.5. Those being GeIL One and that Patriot kit that was supposed to run at DDR-700 with like 3-5-5-10 latencies. But IIRC those were all 512MB sticks... And ran at like 3V or something like that.
I think there's no way a 1GB stick running at DDR500 frecuencies with CL1 timings, _maybe_ with an Excellent stick and running high secondary latencies and voltages you could reach CL1.5 on Socket 939.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> It has nothing to do with the CPU. It's if the ram can handle it.
> I haven't seen anything that can do a CAS of 1 ever. I do have ram that will do 1.5 all day long though.


going back to what you said here, I read somewhere that its the dram controller that is embedded in the CPU can't register CL1 or CL1.5.. its the register.

so if you enable CL1.5 or CL1 in the bios, it may show this in software only, but sometimes show a poorer performance.

I don't know if my above statement is true. can a expert check what I am saying as this person showed this in the CPU hardware manual, saying it must be in the register or have I misunderstand
something or am I talking a load of rubbish. This is why I asked does the FX-60 support CL1. This part I don't understand too well.

If you really wanted to test CL1, just lower the clock just to see if it works.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> +1
> 
> @delshay
> 
> I think i've only seen 2 stick on my whole life (DDR1) that _maybe_ could do CL1.5. Those being GeIL One and that Patriot kit that was supposed to run at DDR-700 with like 3-5-5-10 latencies. But IIRC those were all 512MB sticks... And ran at like 3V or something like that.
> I think there's no way a 1GB stick running at DDR500 frecuencies with CL1 timings, _maybe_ with an Excellent stick and running high secondary latencies and voltages you could reach CL1.5 on Socket 939.


I will release more information when all test is completed. If you have seen what I have done with EDO memory you know DDR memory I am posting about in this thread is real.

This is what the test is all about, I need proper confirmation CL1.5 & CL1 is registering correctly.

NOTE: the other timings I already pointed out are also affected. nothing here seems to register below 2 even if I leave the bios in auto & let the SPD control everything. 2 is fine, 1 does not register


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> If you have seen what I have done with EDO memory you know DDR memory I am posting about in this thread is real.


Don't want to sound rude, but even if you did magic with a different type of RAM on a different type of platform/socket, that doesn't mean that you can "create" RAM modules that run at absurdly high speeds.

Also, about that DOOM thing and CPU usage, that doesn't have anything to do with reaching CL1 latencies on RAM or not.

EDIT: Oh well, i got ninja-edited about the DOOM stuff...


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Don't want to sound rude, but even if you did magic with a different type of RAM on a different type of platform/socket, that doesn't mean that you can "create" RAM modules that run at absurdly high speeds.
> 
> Also, about that DOOM thing and CPU usage, that doesn't have anything to do with reaching CL1 latencies on RAM or not.
> 
> EDIT: Oh well, i got ninja-edited about the DOOM stuff...


You could be right.. But ask yourself or do a search, where in the world would you find 128MB 28ns EDO memory. I have 6 of them here.

Doom, forget that part, it's not helping me at this time.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> You could be right.. But ask yourself or do a search, where in the world would you find 128MB 28ns EDO memory. I have 6 of them here.
> 
> Doom, delete that part, it's not helping me at this time.


But still, EDO RAM is different from DDR1. And also, you're very probably using that EDO RAM in a platform that is very different (compared to Socket 939).
In this case, it could be possible, but back in 2006-2007, they already tried to get to CL1, but they couldn't, they got to CL1.5 but it barely worked (at safe 24/7 voltages, also IIRC, those modules were 512MB, needed a DFI motherboard that allowed using up to 4V VDIMM and allowed selecting CL1.5 on the BIOS too and they were only running at DDR-400 speeds).

Maybe, as I said, if you could find a VERY GOOD overclocker stick of that GeIL ONE (the modules that did CL1.5) you may be able to reach CL1. But again AFAIK, you wouldn't be able to select CL1 at BIOS (and it's even more difficult on that motherboard that is not designed to overclock).
Not mentioning the high Voltages those modules needed to do only DDR-400 CL1.5-2-2-5 (2.75-2.95V), also, those modules did DDR-500 CL2-2-2-5 at 3.4-3.8V, now imagine how much voltage (if the modules don't die before even reaching that point) you would need to reach DDR-500 CL1-x-x-x! It would be, what, 4V? With 4V you would need Watercooling or even D-Ice to keep alive the modules (and obviusly a very good motherboard too, like the DFI Lanpartys that were the only ones that supported those GeIL ONE modules IIRC).

EDIT: Also, the overclockability depends alot on the memory modules, for example, TCCDs could reach high speeds (DDR-600) but needed high timings, but they could do very easily DDR-400 2-2-2-5 at 2.5V (heck, i've got a pair of Corsair XMS PRO TCCDs, 2x512MB sticks that can do that).


----------



## SpykeZ

So what do you guys even do with your 939's these days? I don't have mine anymore but a friend's brother still uses it to play DOTA 2 on haha.

I think I OC'd my 4400+ to 2.8GHz. That was before I knew anything about OCing. It never crashed and ran it like that for like 6 months but one day I was like huh, how hot does thi...HOLY CRAP HOW HAS THIS THING NOT MELTED OMG I ALMOST KILLED THIS POOR THING.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*
> 
> So what do you guys even do with your 939's these days? I don't have mine anymore but a friend's brother still uses it to play DOTA 2 on haha.
> 
> I think I OC'd my 4400+ to 2.8GHz. That was before I knew anything about OCing. It never crashed and ran it like that for like 6 months but one day I was like huh, how hot does thi...HOLY CRAP HOW HAS THIS THING NOT MELTED OMG I ALMOST KILLED THIS POOR THING.


Well, i started back in 2006 with a 3000+, almost a year ago i snapped a FX-60 for 50 bucks (was still using 939 as main machine and used the FX-60 like half year more as main rig).
And now it's sitting here with a 8800GTX, no PSU and lots of backyard sale and eBay parts








939 is still very fun to bench


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Don't want to sound rude, but even if you did magic with a different type of RAM on a different type of platform/socket, that doesn't mean that you can "create" RAM modules that run at absurdly high speeds.
> 
> Also, about that DOOM thing and CPU usage, that doesn't have anything to do with reaching CL1 latencies on RAM or not.
> 
> EDIT: Oh well, i got ninja-edited about the DOOM stuff...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> But still, EDO RAM is different from DDR1. And also, you're very probably using that EDO RAM in a platform that is very different (compared to Socket 939).
> In this case, it could be possible, but back in 2006-2007, they already tried to get to CL1, but they couldn't, they got to CL1.5 but it barely worked (at safe 24/7 voltages, also IIRC, those modules were 512MB, needed a DFI motherboard that allowed using up to 4V VDIMM and allowed selecting CL1.5 on the BIOS too and they were only running at DDR-400 speeds).
> 
> Maybe, as I said, if you could find a VERY GOOD overclocker stick of that GeIL ONE (the modules that did CL1.5) you may be able to reach CL1. But again AFAIK, you wouldn't be able to select CL1 at BIOS (and it's even more difficult on that motherboard that is not designed to overclock).
> Not mentioning the high Voltages those modules needed to do only DDR-400 CL1.5-2-2-5 (2.75-2.95V), also, those modules did DDR-500 CL2-2-2-5 at 3.4-3.8V, now imagine how much voltage (if the modules don't die before even reaching that point) you would need to reach DDR-500 CL1-x-x-x! It would be, what, 4V? With 4V you would need Watercooling or even D-Ice to keep alive the modules (and obviusly a very good motherboard too, like the DFI Lanpartys that were the only ones that supported those GeIL ONE modules IIRC).
> 
> EDIT: Also, the overclockability depends alot on the memory modules, for example, TCCDs could reach high speeds (DDR-600) but needed high timings, but they could do very easily DDR-400 2-2-2-5 at 2.5V (heck, i've got a pair of Corsair XMS PRO TCCDs, 2x512MB sticks that can do that).


That's a lot of info.

I have already pointed out some of the specification of the DIMM I have here. ..Max voltage is 2.7,but I operate them at 2.65v as its not running at full speed.

HINT: I can do 215MHz with 2-2-2-5 timing with four DIMMs at 2.65v, but this is far from its top end speed and it can't do 250MHz, so you know its below 250MHz, but you also know it's set a new world record for a 1GB DIMM with 2-2-2-5 timing which was held by the corsair PC-4400 223MHz.

one of the world record held by my DIMMs is the voltage. It can hold a very tight timing at 2.65v only.

Lets skip all this, and do some benchmarks..name a free benchmark utility or I will use MAXMEM


----------



## Mr.Scott

Sample of my CL1.5 @ DDR500 on socket 939.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Sample of my CL1.5 @ DDR500 on socket 939.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Sample of my CL1.5 @ DDR500 on socket 939.


Well after all that, I was wrong I can't beat that, it's too fast. I am also air cooled on my FX-60.

I have never seen memory that fast with 1 GB stick with those timing, I have only seen it on 512MB stick, so I am not as fast and I do not set a world record.

nevertheless my four modules clock over 223Mhz easy with just 2.65v.. That's "4GB" of Ultra Fast Ram

EDIT: that says dual channel you are using 2x512MB of ram are you trying to cheat. show me 1024MB single channel mode at that speed..


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> Well after all that, I was wrong I can't beat that, it's too fast. I am also air cooled on my FX-60.
> 
> I have never seen memory that fast with 1 GB stick with those timing, I have only seen it on 512MB stick, so I am not as fast and I do not set a world record.
> 
> nevertheless my four modules clock over 223Mhz easy with just 2.65v.. That's "4GB" of Ultra Fast Ram
> 
> EDIT: that says dual channel you are using 2x512MB of ram are you trying to cheat. show me 1024MB single channel mode at that speed..


In socket 939, overclocking RAM using 1GB modules limits the overclock, it gets even more limited using all 4 slots populated and a low end motherboard (like your ASRock).
If there's some possibility of doing CL1 @ DDR-500 (or even DDR-400) on a 1GB stick it will need a better motherboard (and tons of cooling/voltage) for sure.

PD: I'm running air cooling on my FX-60 too (using 2x 92mm 5000RPM Deltas tho). As you need more FSB frecuency to get higher RAM clocks, just lower your multiplier, since it doesn't look a good idea to overclock an FX-60 on that board.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Sample of my CL1.5 @ DDR500 on socket 939.


Wow! Nice sticks and chip. What sticks are those? GeIL Ones?


----------



## Mr.Scott

They are Kingston HyperX BH-5.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> Well after all that, I was wrong I can't beat that, it's too fast. I am also air cooled on my FX-60.
> 
> I have never seen memory that fast with 1 GB stick with those timing, I have only seen it on 512MB stick, so I am not as fast and I do not set a world record.
> 
> nevertheless my four modules clock over 223Mhz easy with just 2.65v.. That's "4GB" of Ultra Fast Ram
> 
> EDIT: that says dual channel you are using 2x512MB of ram are you trying to cheat. show me 1024MB single channel mode at that speed..


There was no cheat involved. I never said they were 1 gig sticks, mostly because there are no 1 gig sticks that will do CL 1.5 or less. CL 2 is as fast as 1 gig's get. If you'd like I can show you CL 2 at DDR500 or faster, but those are pretty common.

Now.....let's see your 1 gig sticks at CL1.5, even DDR400 will be fine.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> In socket 939, overclocking RAM using 1GB modules limits the overclock, it gets even more limited using all 4 slots populated and a low end motherboard (like your ASRock).
> If there's some possibility of doing CL1 @ DDR-500 (or even DDR-400) on a 1GB stick it will need a better motherboard (and tons of cooling/voltage) for sure.
> 
> PD: I'm running air cooling on my FX-60 too (using 2x 92mm 5000RPM Deltas tho). As you need more FSB frecuency to get higher RAM clocks, just lower your multiplier, since it doesn't look a good idea to overclock an FX-60 on that board.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> In socket 939, overclocking RAM using 1GB modules limits the overclock, it gets even more limited using all 4 slots populated and a low end motherboard (like your ASRock).
> If there's some possibility of doing CL1 @ DDR-500 (or even DDR-400) on a 1GB stick it will need a better motherboard (and tons of cooling/voltage) for sure.
> 
> PD: I'm running air cooling on my FX-60 too (using 2x 92mm 5000RPM Deltas tho). As you need more FSB frecuency to get higher RAM clocks, just lower your multiplier, since it doesn't look a good idea to overclock an FX-60 on that board.


Its not limited here. everything is fixed and working no issue whatsoever. Its ultra fast when I need the extra speed.

(you said: overclocking RAM using 1GB modules limits the overclock) WRONG no effect whatsoever & is totally rubbish works perfect here all the way up to max speed and I take back what I said in the early posting. I DO HOLD THE WORLD RECORD AS THE FASTEST 1GB DIMM IN THE WORLD THAT IS CAPABLE OF 2-2-2-5 timing, I have 4GB in total.

The only problem I have with this motherboard, it is limited to what GFX card that will fit after all cooling is fitted. That card is the R9 Nano which is clocked @1080 no throttling issue, which may also hold a world record.

FX-60 overclocks fine, higher than most users on air, but I only enable this if I am doing something more demanding.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> I DO HOLD THE WORLD RECORD AS THE FASTEST 1GB DIMM IN THE WORLD THAT IS CAPABLE OF 2-2-2-5 timing,


You hold nothing until there is tangible proof, which has been asked for at least twice and has yet to be provided.
As stated before, talk is cheap. Put up or shut up.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> You hold nothing until there is tangible proof, which has been asked for at least twice and has yet to be provided.
> As stated before, talk is cheap. Put up or shut up.


I will put-up when all testing is completed, until then I will not shut-up.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> Its not limited here. everything is fixed and working no issue whatsoever. Its ultra fast when I need the extra speed.
> 
> (you said: overclocking RAM using 1GB modules limits the overclock) WRONG no effect whatsoever & is totally rubbish works perfect here all the way up to max speed and I take back what I said in the early posting. I DO HOLD THE WORLD RECORD AS THE FASTEST 1GB DIMM IN THE WORLD THAT IS CAPABLE OF 2-2-2-5 timing, I have 4GB in total.
> 
> The only problem I have with this motherboard, it is limited to what GFX card that will fit after all cooling is fitted. That card is the R9 Nano which is clocked @1080 no throttling issue, which may also hold a world record.
> 
> FX-60 overclocks fine, higher than most users on air, but I only enable this if I am doing something more demanding.


Overclocking on socket 939 does get affected by RAM module capacity and slots used, try getting the same clocks from a single 512MB stick and 4x1GB sticks (considering that all the sticks are exactly the same in stock clocks and timings). I bet you won't get the same result.
Also, as Mr.Scott said, proof is always a must when writing things like "I DO HOLD THE WORLD RECORD AS THE FASTEST 1GB DIMM IN THE WORLD THAT IS CAPABLE OF 2-2-2-5". Now, show us somthing to proof that sentence, you didn't even said what modules you're using.

Also, GPU doesn't affect overclock (except maybe when using iGPU)


----------



## Mr.Scott

Took me 30 seconds to set this up. Random 1 gig stick of Infineon BE-5.

Read it and weep.
Thanks for the challenge.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> I will put-up when all testing is completed, until then I will not shut-up.


Why don't you put-up at least the model of the sticks you're using? That "i won't put them up until i finish testing" thing is BS IMHO.


----------



## delshay

at least the model of the sticks you're using? That "i won't put them up until i finish testing" thing is BS IMHO.[/quote]

all
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Overclocking on socket 939 does get affected by RAM module capacity and slots used, try getting the same clocks from a single 512MB stick and 4x1GB sticks (considering that all the sticks are exactly the same in stock clocks and timings). I bet you won't get the same result.
> Also, as Mr.Scott said, proof is always a must when writing things like "I DO HOLD THE WORLD RECORD AS THE FASTEST 1GB DIMM IN THE WORLD THAT IS CAPABLE OF 2-2-2-5". Now, show us somthing to proof that sentence, you didn't even said what modules you're using.
> 
> Also, GPU doesn't affect overclock (except maybe when using iGPU)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Took me 30 seconds to set this up. Random 1 gig stick of Infineon BE-5.
> 
> Read it and weep.
> Thanks for the challenge.


That's what I am talking about. no 1GB stick is able to hold a 2 clock cycle TRCD at very high speed, until now. TRCD play a very important roll how stable a memory module is. if you can get control of TRCD then CL, you have control of stability at high speed with tight timings.


----------



## Mr.Scott

It matters very little in the grand scheme of things. Clock for clock 1.5-3-2-5 will out perform 2-2-2-5.
While I understand and appreciate what you're trying to accomplish, it is not earth shattering.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> It matters very little in the grand scheme of things. Clock for clock 1.5-3-2-5 will out perform 2-2-2-5.
> While I understand and appreciate what you're trying to accomplish, it is not earth shattering.


I think its the other way round. but I will do a check & confirm. CL1.5 is only half a clock cycle faster while TRCD is 3 clock cycle, where the other one CL2 is half a clock cycle slower but TRCD is a "full" clock cycle less.

I will check again TRCD has a bigger impact on performance than CL. Perhaps some can explain why TRCD most of the time is the first to be hit out of the main 4 parameters when it comes to timing. Why is this?

it was TRCD that made the world fastest EDO memory & its TRCD that driving DDR performance up not CL & its getting quicker.


----------



## Mr.Scott

http://www.extremetech.com/computing/56922-does-ram-latency-matter/2
Quote:


> here's the chronological sequence of events: First the pins receive a request to, let's say, retrieve memory at a certain address. The first latency measurement that comes into play is tRAS, as the memory waits to activate the row where the data resides. Then tRP comes into play if the requested data resides on a different row than the one previously accessed. After the row is selected (if necessary), you have the tRCD delay before the column is selected. Then CAS is the time it takes to select the proper column of memory and retrieve data stored there. To recap, listed chronologically, it's tRAS -> tRP -> tRCD -> CAS. And CAS has the biggest impact on performance, since new columns are accessed more frequently than anything else


----------



## rhkcommander959

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> How about a little sample before I do all the foot work? Say, 1GB @ DDR600 @ CL 2


is this a 1gb stick or 2x512? i would love to have 4gb of it in my dfi.. I did some runs with crucial ballistix tracers at 600+, but had to sacrifice timings... I'd have to look for pics to see what it was


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Overclocking on socket 939 does get affected by RAM module capacity and slots used, try getting the same clocks from a single 512MB stick and 4x1GB sticks (considering that all the sticks are exactly the same in stock clocks and timings). I bet you won't get the same result.
> Also, as Mr.Scott said, proof is always a must when writing things like "I DO HOLD THE WORLD RECORD AS THE FASTEST 1GB DIMM IN THE WORLD THAT IS CAPABLE OF 2-2-2-5". Now, show us somthing to proof that sentence, you didn't even said what modules you're using.
> 
> Also, GPU doesn't affect overclock (except maybe when using iGPU)


This is why you should always buy in kit format. Manufacturers are changing the specification without changing revision (sometimes) this is why four DIMM can sometimes have problem.

You will know if you have a problem if you need to put certain DIMM in a certain order. This does not fix the problem, all the user has done has move it to another address space so that it does not show up as often.

Ever wonder why some users may get "windows has encountered a problem" or a program just exit, I can confirm some of this can sometimes be memory related even when it is not overclocked.

if you can buy memory in a kit of four or more, it is likely to perform better, as their have been tested to work together.

You need to understand what causing these errors, and where the faults are. I can't see a manufacturer supplying four DIMM slot knowing that using all 4 slots will cause a fault. Nevertheless using all 4 slots should not effect stability.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> This is why you should always buy in kit format. Manufacturers are changing the specification without changing revision (sometimes) this is why four DIMM can sometimes have problem.
> 
> You will know if you have a problem if you need to put certain DIMM in a certain order. This does not fix the problem, all the user has done has move it to another address space so that it does not show up as often.
> 
> Ever wonder why some users may get "windows has encountered a problem" or a program just exit, I can confirm some of this can sometimes be memory related even when it is not overclocked.
> 
> if you can buy memory in a kit of four or more, it is likely to perform better, as their have been tested to work together.
> 
> You need to understand what causing these errors, and where the faults are. I can't see a manufacturer supplying four DIMM slot knowing that using all 4 slots will cause a fault. Nevertheless using all 4 slots should not effect stability.


Thank you for stating the obvious which once again has proven nothing while dodging the issue of providing any real proof of your claim(s).

I don't care if you're testing or whatever, until such proof has been provided I cannot believe your claim and you have earned no credibility over it, making it the same as







to me.

So..... Go ahead and keep talking without showing any proof, no one will take you seriously until you actually show it.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> Thank you for stating the obvious which once again has proven nothing while dodging the issue of providing any real proof of your claim(s).
> 
> I don't care if you're testing or whatever, until such proof has been provided I cannot believe your claim and you have earned no credibility over it, making it the same as
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> to me.
> 
> So..... Go ahead and keep talking without showing any proof, no one will take you seriously until you actually show it.


You have to trust me on this, I can see everything most errors in memory which some software can't detect. I know everything down to the location with "absolute precision".

When four slots are used, depending on quality of memory, errors can be present, but windows seems to work fine even with these errors present.

Some software may not detect these errors, but it is there.

Errors can also be present in just one memory module only, but as the banks get filled up that error is more exposed.

Even my memory when overclock at max speed, I can see errors, but windows works perfect.

I need help with a modified BIOS to complete testing, then I will prove most what I am saying.

The other website know I am not SPAM/FUD look how long I have been a user there.

If user(s) thing this is SPAM/FUD, then I am happy to be removed/banned from this website.


----------



## gasparspeed

LP
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> You have to trust me on this, I can see everything most errors in memory which some software can't detect. I know everything down to the location with "absolute precision".
> 
> When four slots are used, depending on quality of memory, errors can be present, but windows seems to work fine even with these errors present.
> 
> Some software may not detect these errors, but it is there.
> 
> Errors can also be present in just one memory module only, but as the banks get filled up that error is more exposed.
> 
> Even my memory when overclock at max speed, I can see errors, but windows works perfect.
> 
> I need help with a modified BIOS to complete testing, then I will prove most what I am saying.
> 
> The other website know I am not SPAM/FUD look how long I have been a user there.
> 
> If user(s) thing this is SPAM/FUD, then I am happy to be removed/banned from this website.


You didn't got it... What i was telling doesn't have anything to do with module Revision. Even If you could get 4 exactly the same 1GB modules. Using 4 would made more difficult overclock/getting high clocks than using only 1 or 2. It's a fact. Because you are stressing more the IMC.
Also. I think all of this is just nonsense. Now you can "magically see errors even when X error checking program can't". What is going to be the next thing? Getting 4Ghz on air on that motherboard?

I won't believe anything you said until you show some proof...


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> The other website know I am not SPAM/FUD look how long I have been a user there.
> 
> If user(s) thing this is SPAM/FUD, then I am happy to be removed/banned from this website.


Instead of this WORLD RECORD E-PEEN ego boosting -garbage, why don't you help us get 16GB on our s939 setups?? This whole my 1GB is faster than yours, derp derp, we don't care man... Help us evolve our machine's, and push higher and higher RAM capacities. We already hit 8GB, and someone SOMEHOW got 16GB...

Help and quit being snobby. None of us are impressed... Except at those CL 1.5 screens Scotty submitted... those are slick.

Ego's get smashed on OCN, hence the disturbance in the thread with Scott and others of us hopping in to correct it. Threaten to obliterate, and obliteration is what happened... lol

And what sucks, Scotty is the only one here who can mod a BIOS that I know, and you haven't really gotten on his good side. lol x2

Good luck!


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> You have to trust me on this.....


No I don't.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> When four slots are used, depending on quality of memory, errors can be present, but windows seems to work fine even with these errors present.
> Some software may not detect these errors, but it is there.


Another obvious, non-informative statement we already know as fact.
Doesn't matter how many slots are used, errors can be present regardless of sticks and whatever else.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> Errors can also be present in just one memory module only, but as the banks get filled up that error is more exposed.


It's called a bad stick of RAM.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> Even my memory when overclock at max speed, I can see errors, but windows works perfect.


Works perfect yet has errors *you can see*.... Yeah, right.
Put that back in the can dude.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> I need help with a modified BIOS to complete testing, then I will prove most what I am saying.


Good luck with that.....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> The other website know I am not SPAM/FUD look how long I have been a user there.
> 
> If user(s) thing this is SPAM/FUD, then I am happy to be removed/banned from this website.


Length/time of membership on a site isn't proof of that, posted content is such proof - Looks to me you're just trolling along here by what you're posting up.

Guys I'm going to ignore this BS from this point on and be done with it since that's all it is anyway.
Done.


----------



## mattliston

what the heck is going on here?

back up what you are saying instead of trying to convince people.

instead of being a little baby about certain things, help people expand use on the platform.

being able to overclock both cpu and ram while running 8gb or 16gb would be a heck of a challenge and super awesome.

who cares about having the fastest 1gb?

the fastest 1gb will still perform slower than the slowest 4gb worth of memory with today's software demands.

jeez. somebody didnt get hit when they were a kid


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattliston*
> 
> what the heck is going on here?
> 
> back up what you are saying instead of trying to convince people.
> 
> instead of being a little baby about certain things, help people expand use on the platform.
> 
> being able to overclock both cpu and ram while running 8gb or 16gb would be a heck of a challenge and super awesome.
> 
> who cares about having the fastest 1gb?
> 
> the fastest 1gb will still perform slower than the slowest 4gb worth of memory with today's software demands.
> 
> jeez. somebody didnt get hit when they were a kid


I posted in this thread to ask for help with bios edit, now its turning on its head because I will not show what i have. Now I am going to make it clear.

I will not show what I have here until all test is completed. Think I start my own thread and ask for help.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> I posted in this thread to ask for help with bios edit, now its turning on its head because I will not show what i have. Now I am going to make it clear.
> 
> I will not show what I have here until all test is completed. Think I start my own thread and ask for help.


It has been said a couple of times now, the only one (AFAIK) that could maybe do that BIOS edit you need (that IMHO is still impossible to do since that motherboard is just... Let's just say it's not good for overclocking instead of using other words) is Mr.Scott. Arguing with Scott is not a good way to get him to mod your BIOS


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Instead of this WORLD RECORD E-PEEN ego boosting -garbage, why don't you help us get 16GB on our s939 setups?? This whole my 1GB is faster than yours, derp derp, we don't care man... Help us evolve our machine's, and push higher and higher RAM capacities. We already hit 8GB, and someone SOMEHOW got 16GB...
> 
> Help and quit being snobby. None of us are impressed... Except at those CL 1.5 screens Scotty submitted... those are slick.
> 
> Ego's get smashed on OCN, hence the disturbance in the thread with Scott and others of us hopping in to correct it. Threaten to obliterate, and obliteration is what happened... lol
> 
> And what sucks, Scotty is the only one here who can mod a BIOS that I know, and you haven't really gotten on his good side. lol x2
> 
> Good luck!


no matter how fast 512mb is, it has little use in todays applications & 4GB is now struggling at lease for me.. 8GB now seems the minimum.

if scotty can edit bios, why did he not say so. ..and stop trying to stir trouble up.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> It has been said a couple of times now, the only one (AFAIK) that could maybe do that BIOS edit you need (that IMHO is still impossible to do since that motherboard is just... Let's just say it's not good for overclocking instead of using other words) is Mr.Scott. Arguing with Scott is not a good way to get him to mod your BIOS


it overclocks here ok. you have to change the northbridge & southbridge heatsink this is mandatory if you overclock. Even the on-board GFX overclocks to 1025MHz more than double.

FX-60 @2.950MHz 1.375v. it need a good power supply which I do have. cooling is important & is key to getting the best out of it.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> no matter how fast 512mb is, it has little use in todays applications & 4GB is now struggling at lease for me.. 8GB now seems the minimum.
> 
> if scotty can edit bios, why did he not say so. ..and stop trying to stir trouble up.


Well, in this same thread there has been a couple of users (at least) that gor 8GB running without problems on Socket 939 (even overclocking CPU and RAM!) and one user got also 16GB working.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> it overclocks here ok. you have the change the northbridge & southbridge heatsink this is mandatory if you overclock. Even the on-board GFX overclocks to 1025MHz more than double. FX-60 @2.950MHz 1.375v. it need a good power supply which I do have. cooling is important & is key to getting the best out of it.


True, BUT, still, it's still a low end motherboard, and that could limit too (specially in terms of voltage options and also maybe timing options). I'm not saying you can't overclock on those ,heck, my ASRock 939NF4G-SATAII is pretty similar to your motherboard, and did overclock nicely my X2 4200+, but then i got the DFI NF4 Infinity and oh man, that is such a nice board compared to the ASRock, and it's not even a high end DFI.

You can check what DFI Lanparty NF4s can do, those things are beasts for overclocking.

EDIT: Also, ASUS A8N32-SLI Deluxe (or Premium, don't remember which name was) is the only (known) board supporting 8GB (and 16GB) of memory


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> True, BUT, still, it's still a low end motherboard, and that could limit too (specially in terms of voltage options and also maybe timing options). I'm not saying you can't overclock on those ,heck, my ASRock 939NF4G-SATAII is pretty similar to your motherboard, and did overclock nicely my X2 4200+, but then i got the DFI NF4 Infinity and oh man, that is such a nice board compared to the ASRock, and it's not even a high end DFI.
> 
> You can check what DFI Lanparty NF4s can do, those things are beasts for overclocking.


I wanted a small case and only four slots at the back this is why I picked this motherboard.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> its the heatsink. it get too hot & locks-up the computer.
> 
> Northbridge has Thermalright HR-05/IFX which does not block the mini PCI-E slot
> 
> Southbridge has Hyperbridge PC-NBHP1. This heatsink has a fan which directly cools the side of R9 Nano.
> 
> CPU is cooled by Zalman I think it the 8700 which also cools Northbridge, Ram & back (PCB side) of R9 Nano.
> 
> it can go 3GHz+, but I can't control the heat when voltage is raised to 1.45v, so max voltage is 1.4.
> 
> I think this motherboard needs a flower type CPU cooler, to cool all components around it. Even the CPU regulators get cooled by the Zalman.
> 
> All heatsinks have heatpipe(s)


Heatpipes only help conducting heat, they don't dissipate heat (well not as much as a heatsink itself). But i think the main difference between your setup and mine (except hardware itself, i'm referring to cooling) is that, even tho my heatsink is worse than yours (at least, that's what i think) my 2x92mm Deltas help alot. A couple of high-flow fans always help. When running my FX-60 @ 3Ghz and 1.568V my Idle speeds (didn't stress test much the CPU) were arround 45 ºC (maybe like 3ºC higher than on stock on the same setup), with both Deltas blasting at full speed.

I'm running on my DFI NF4 Infinity the stock (almost non-existent) NorthBridge heatsink with the stock fan at 100%, it does get hot, pretty hot (50-60ºC IIRC), but even then it runs nicely (also, the fan is covered by the gigantic 8800GTX Accelero that basically heats up even more the NB)

Also, for your pruposes i suggest having at least 1 fan pointing at the RAM directly (you'll need tons of voltage if you even want to try getting CL1, with I still say it's impossible...)

Also as a side note, it's not only the NB/SB temperature, my 939NF4G-SATAII did not overclock past a certain point where even with one of my Deltas pointed directly onto the Northbridge wouldn't still boot to Windows, in your case it may be different, but stability is not only depending on temperature, there's tons of things that can make a PC unstable.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Heatpipes only help conducting heat, they don't dissipate heat (well not as much as a heatsink itself). But i think the main difference between your setup and mine (except hardware itself, i'm referring to cooling) is that, even tho my heatsink is worse than yours (at least, that's what i think) my 2x92mm Deltas help alot. A couple of high-flow fans always help. When running my FX-60 @ 3Ghz and 1.568V my Idle speeds (didn't stress test much the CPU) were arround 45 ºC (maybe like 3ºC higher than on stock on the same setup), with both Deltas blasting at full speed.
> 
> I'm running on my DFI NF4 Infinity the stock (almost non-existent) NorthBridge heatsink with the stock fan at 100%, it does get hot, pretty hot (50-60ºC IIRC), but even then it runs nicely (also, the fan is covered by the gigantic 8800GTX Accelero that basically heats up even more the NB)
> 
> Also, for your pruposes i suggest having at least 1 fan pointing at the RAM directly (you'll need tons of voltage if you even want to try getting CL1, with I still say it's impossible...)
> 
> Also as a side note, it's not only the NB/SB temperature, my 939NF4G-SATAII did not overclock past a certain point where even with one of my Deltas pointed directly onto the Northbridge wouldn't still boot to Windows, in your case it may be different, but stability is not only depending on temperature, there's tons of things that can make a PC unstable.


FX-60 idle 39-41c & max load 58c-62c, but settles at around 59c-61c at full load on CPU/GFX when PWM fans catches up.

Temperature on FX-60 is better than above. R9 Nano put out so much heat its affecting everything around it & driving up case temperature.

I have a intake (with filter) & outake Fan (Noctua 92mm)

That's also what special about my ram, it has no heatsink when it should have. I already pointed this out many times in this thread, it operates at a lower voltage 2.65v & max is 2.7v. There's more to this ram than most user are thinking. just have to wait until all test are completed.

But my computer is not completed yet & is still work in progress..


----------



## CrazyMonkey

Let me see if I've got this right...

Someone is bragging about being the world record master on DDR1 overclock and so on, but in between says such nonsense's like using an entry level motherboard like the ASRock (that back then was very poor in quality) with a bad power management, a bad construction quality and a AMD785G chip7 that is not designed to handle high speed RAM's and not very good for extreme overclock....

Hummm...

Adding to that, he is using windows 7 to full fill this accomplishment when everybody knows that Windows XP is the best OS to use when OCing 939 sockets and DDR1... A good old school OCer should know that you do not need to tweak your bios unless you need to mess around with voltages, everything else is accomplished by using a tool called clockgen or A64 Tweaker...

But, hey, I know nothing about this subject! hehehe

EDIT:
@Mr.Scott I thing I have one of those Geil One kits laying around here some were too... They've made too different kits, one DDR400/DDR500 and another one DDR500/DDR600 if I am not mistaken...

Here's mine:


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Heatpipes only help conducting heat, they don't dissipate heat (well not as much as a heatsink itself). But i think the main difference between your setup and mine (except hardware itself, i'm referring to cooling) is that, even tho my heatsink is worse than yours (at least, that's what i think) my 2x92mm Deltas help alot. A couple of high-flow fans always help. When running my FX-60 @ 3Ghz and 1.568V my Idle speeds (didn't stress test much the CPU) were arround 45 ºC (maybe like 3ºC higher than on stock on the same setup), with both Deltas blasting at full speed.
> 
> I'm running on my DFI NF4 Infinity the stock (almost non-existent) NorthBridge heatsink with the stock fan at 100%, it does get hot, pretty hot (50-60ºC IIRC), but even then it runs nicely (also, the fan is covered by the gigantic 8800GTX Accelero that basically heats up even more the NB)
> 
> Also, for your pruposes i suggest having at least 1 fan pointing at the RAM directly (you'll need tons of voltage if you even want to try getting CL1, with I still say it's impossible...)
> 
> Also as a side note, it's not only the NB/SB temperature, my 939NF4G-SATAII did not overclock past a certain point where even with one of my Deltas pointed directly onto the Northbridge wouldn't still boot to Windows, in your case it may be different, but stability is not only depending on temperature, there's tons of things that can make a PC unstable.


I also have 4GB DDR 500 & it clocks 560Mhz on this motherboard. don't know about stability, did not run it long enough.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyMonkey*
> 
> Let me see if I've got this right...
> 
> Someone is bragging about being the world record master on DDR1 overclock and so on, but in between says such nonsense's like using an entry level motherboard like the ASRock (that back then was very poor in quality) with a bad power management, a bad construction quality and a AMD785G chip7 that is not designed to handle high speed RAM's and not very good for extreme overclock....
> 
> Hummm...
> 
> Adding to that, he is using windows 7 to full fill this accomplishment when everybody knows that Windows XP is the best OS to use when OCing 939 sockets and DDR1... A good old school OCer should know that you do not need to tweak your bios unless you need to mess around with voltages, everything else is accomplished by using a tool called clockgen or A64 Tweaker...
> 
> But, hey, I know nothing about this subject! hehehe
> 
> EDIT:
> @Mr.Scoot I thing I have one of those Geil One kits laying around here some were too... They've made too different kits, one DDR400/DDR500 and another one DDR500/DDR600 if I am not mistaken...


I have already pointed out what needs to be changed to get the best out of this motherboard.

DDR500 overclocks to 560Mhz 4GB

you be eating those words & to tell you the truth, I can't wait. everyone who disbelieve me or make me to be SPAM/FUD you may end up editing your posting , because my memory is real.

its only the fastest "1GB" memory module with "2-2-2-5 timing only" there are four of them 4GB total clocking beyond 223MHz.


----------



## CrazyMonkey

Were I come from we have a saying: "When you talk to much it means your words don't worth that much..."

Until you proof we're wrong (witch I trully doubt it) you won't get any credit...


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyMonkey*
> 
> Were I come from we have a saying: "When you talk to much it means your words don't worth that much..."
> 
> Until you proof we're wrong (witch I trully doubt it) you won't get any credit...


brilliant... I leave it as it is, no credit.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> I also have 4GB DDR 500 & it clocks 560Mhz on this motherboard. don't know about stability, did not run it long enough.


Ummm.................no you don't. It clocks 230MHz which is DDR 460. Big difference. Current world record for DDR in MHz is 447 by one of my team mates. That's DDR 994. I personally can get to over 400 MHz which would be DDR 800 and I can back that up.



BTW, I started no trouble. I just called a spade a spade and would like to see some proof.
You seem to not want to oblige..........so be it.


----------



## CrazyMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> brilliant... I leave it as it is, no credit.


It looks like it's been you common practice for the last few years...

http://www.amigans.net/modules/xforum/viewtopic.php?post_id=49507


----------



## mattliston

have you guys considered soldering capacitors on the ram circuitry?

couple of 2200 uf caps would do a darn good job of cleaning up the power without acting like an oversize baffle for power delivery.

find a cheap car computer on ebay, they all use fast reacting capacitors for the critical sensors like MAP, TPS, and O2. would be a good source for the small barrel caps that have end legs


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Ummm.................no you don't. It clocks 230MHz which is DDR 560. Big difference. Current world record for DDR in MHz is 447 by one of my team mates. That's DDR 994. I personally can get to over 400 MHz which would be DDR 800 and I can back that up.


sorry you are right. i was going from memory the last time I tested them.. it clocks 260MHz (will edit last posting).


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyMonkey*
> 
> It looks like it's been you common practice for the last few years...
> 
> http://www.amigans.net/modules/xforum/viewtopic.php?post_id=49507


OFF TOPIC

I still have the Bvisions, you just plug them in and you can overclock them to around 220Mhz-225MHz.

Kxxx (I will not give his name) offered me the overclocked drivers, but I had so must work to do I did not accept it. However 68K drivers was supplied by another third party which did work, but I worked out the biggest performance is in the PCI bus.


----------



## Mr.Scott

About modding a bios for CL1 now. Not possible, at least, not by me. There was never a romsip built for CL1 for any board. That would take a very experienced bios coder to build one and without ram that will run CL1 natively to test with, that'll never happen. DFI and a couple others have romsips for CL1.5. Could I insert those into your Asrock bios......maybe. Asrock uses an AMI bios I'm pretty sure and DFI is Award, so there is incompatibility there to start with. It is not a direct fit. It would be a lot of work.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> About modding a bios for CL1 now. Not possible, at least, not by me. There was never a romsip built for CL1 for any board. That would take a very experienced bios coder to build one and without ram that will run CL1 natively to test with, that'll never happen. DFI and a couple others have romsips for CL1.5. Could I insert those into your Asrock bios......maybe. Asrock uses an AMI bios I'm pretty sure and DFI is Award, so there is incompatibility there to start with. It is not a direct fit. It would be a lot of work.


do you have memory module that is CL1.5. can you not just lower to clock & test at CL1. ..its only half a clock different.

I think CL1 does work, but not on the FX-60 but on another AMD processor. I am going to check and confirm this. it did not show up in software, but benchmark figures shot up. Everything was done at the SPD end & bios timing was set to "auto". let me check again if the results I last tested with another processor was correct.

one thing is for sure, there was a big jump in performance but I could not test for long as I did not have the correct memory that can handle it or the controller can't do it, and it kept crashing. ...let see if my latest ram works.

one other thing, I have spares here, so I can do all the testing.

need two days to do this.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> do you have memory module that is CL1.5. can you not just lower to clock & test at CL1. ..its only half a clock different.


LOL, it doesn't work that way. You have to have a "known" to test against. With no known running CL1 ram and no known working CL1 romsip, how do you tell where the fault is when it doesn't work? You will be forever chasing your tail.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> do you have memory module that is CL1.5. can you not just lower to clock & test at CL1. ..its only half a clock different.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> LOL, it doesn't work that way. You have to have a "known" to test against. With no known running CL1 ram and no known working CL1 romsip, how do you tell where the fault is when it doesn't work? You will be forever chasing your tail.


once the computer can register CL1, I will take care of everything from there, because I can see everything that's going on, that's all that is needed.

This is at a "Hardware Level"


----------



## Oj010

I don't think tighter that 2-2-2-5 is actually possible. Sure, it can be set, but I don't think it exists. I did this a few years ago, set to 2-0-0-0-0 in the BIOS. CPU-Z didn't like it which is why I also had Everest open but it worked. It was no faster in any benchmarks that 2-2-2-5 2T.



I also did 1.5-2-2-5 1T which was no faster than 2-2-2-5 1T


----------



## toughacton

On a slightly different note, I was wondering if anyone here has any of those 2G or 4G sticks that they couldn't get to work. I have a A8R32-MVP deluxe (ATI version of the board that is proven to work at least with 8gigs) and the bios says it has the option for ECC. I was wanting to give it a go and figured i would offer to pay shipping plus a litte or something if anyone was stuck with some that wouldn't work for them.


----------



## SwishaMane

What GPU limitations do our boards face? And I'm not just referring to PCI-E 1.1, I mean Vmem too. My s939 is setup as a HTPC, running Win7 64-bit amazingly well. System memory is topped at 8Gb for me (and I'm good with this) but what about a 4 to 8GB vmem GPU? For giggles, if I were to bench my future RX480 in the s939, would 8GB vmem be an issue?

Remember, these boards were made during a time when 2GB RAM was decent, and 4GB was high end. GPUs of the era were 512 to 896MB (yeah, thats a thing, lol) I even ran a 1.5GB GTX 580 in my board for the lolz. (A 580 that WAS going to be a hand me down until I abandoned water in my machine.)

Would the board start acting in unknown, unforeseen ways if we were to go 16GB RAM and an 8GB RX480. Think the s939 would even boot on 24GB of accessible RAM on the machine.


----------



## FlawleZ

Lol 896MB as in a GTX 260? That's actually beyond the time frame these boards were produced. Really the 8800GTX/ 2900XT time frame was the final hour for most people still running 939 as their primary rigs.
I remember when the big leap from 7 series to 8 series came and the realization of cpu bottleneck on 8800GTS and above on s939 when compared to the C2D.


----------



## StormX2

<3 my 165 and 8800GTS 640mb


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> once the computer can register CL1, I will take care of everything from there, because I can see everything that's going on, that's all that is needed.
> 
> This is at a "Hardware Level"


Nah......I'll not be devoting any more time to this foolishness than I already have. You may be working at 'hardware' level, but what you want done is at 'coding' level for something that doesn't exist. You can't put the cart before the horse.


----------



## rhkcommander959

Not to be rude, but it reminds me of kids who know it all, use vagueness, and use 'broad terms'.

I recall using a gtx 560 and a 650 ti on my dfi cfx3200 but I can't comment on the memory capacity issues.

Do we know for sur the Asus a8n series can do 8+ because hardware (I think I heard more wires), or could it be bios?


----------



## SwishaMane

Guys, found some of the 4GB DDR1 on eBay for cheapskates... $4 a dimm. Should I get 4? The results weren't great from seaFs and Herm's experience... Of course, I'm completely content with DDR400 spec at 3Ghz, even at CL3 is no biggie for me. I'm a stability guy for my HTPC, but 16GB RAM can open some doors. 8GB RAM Disk anyone?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-4GB-PC3200-DDR-400MHz-DIMM-RAM-Memory-Module-M312L5128AU1-CCC-/381666062941?hash=item58dd11f25d:g:uo8AAOSwbYZXWu7E

Not to mention the new Intel 520 SSD I just inherited. Think its faster than my old Crucial M4?


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Guys, found some of the 4GB DDR1 on eBay for cheapskates... $4 a dimm. Should I get 4? The results weren't great from seaFs and Herm's experience... Of course, I'm completely content with DDR400 spec at 3Ghz, even at CL3 is no biggie for me. I'm a stability guy for my HTPC, but 16GB RAM can open some doors. 8GB RAM Disk anyone?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-4GB-PC3200-DDR-400MHz-DIMM-RAM-Memory-Module-M312L5128AU1-CCC-/381666062941?hash=item58dd11f25d:g:uo8AAOSwbYZXWu7E
> 
> Not to mention the new Intel 520 SSD I just inherited. Think its faster than my old Crucial M4?


I'll put a dollar on the 520 FTW


----------



## Herm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Guys, found some of the 4GB DDR1 on eBay for cheapskates... $4 a dimm. Should I get 4? The results weren't great from seaFs and Herm's experience... Of course, I'm completely content with DDR400 spec at 3Ghz, even at CL3 is no biggie for me. I'm a stability guy for my HTPC, but 16GB RAM can open some doors.


Hello SwishaMane,

I don't know for seaFs, but for me, I'm quite happy of how my old computer is still able to do with this amount of RAM.

If I'm no so active right now, it's because, after more than 10 years of daily use, the chipset southbridge on my A8N32-SLI is slowly dying (integrated ethernet, one of the two legacy IDE plug, and last week, all four sata are out of order). So I'm using the backups the A8N32 provide: SiI3132 internal SATA port to boot (and no more CDROM), and the Marvell Yukon for Ethernet link to the Intenet).

While checking the system, I came across... a dying 480W power supply that can't provide required voltages anymore (2.9v to the 3.3v line... The BIOS setup hardware monitor was showing red lines !). I'm running actually with a small 330W spare PSU with way better voltages stability, but that seems to have a random short-circuit ont the 'power on/off' wire.
Low power: basic usage only... well, that is when I succeed to boot. (Even touching the case might have the same effect as holding the power button continuously pressed : brutal power off).

New modular PSU is on the way, and another A8N32 should come too (thanks to Ebay !).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> 8GB RAM Disk anyone?


I'm using VSuite Ramdisk (free edition) for WinXp. Quite fast, able to use hidden memory (usefull when switching to the non PAE patched Microsoft Kernel), but this one seems to max out at 4Gb... But really, as temp directory, and holding a few softwares on it, 4Gb is quite big...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Not to mention the new Intel 520 SSD I just inherited. Think its faster than my old Crucial M4?


Negociated Sata speed should be what will have the best impact on speed, I think... With a Sata-2 controller, if neither the SSD goes back to Sata-1 (I've read that might happen on old hardware...), they should operate at nearly same speed...

At Sata-1 speed, only 150MB/s will be available... Quite slow for device designed to way more bandwidth...

Ah, here, as read speed seems in the same range, looks like the intel is a bit faster on write tests : 500MB/s (on a sata2, will be capped at 300MB/s max) as M4 is 175MB/s (128GB) or 260MB/s (256Gb/512Gb)...

Herm
(Wow, had enough time to type without brutal reboot... I'm hitting the Submit button now !)


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Herm*
> 
> Hello SwishaMane,
> 
> I don't know for seaFs, but for me, I'm quite happy of how my old computer is still able to do with this amount of RAM.
> 
> If I'm no so active right now, it's because, after more than 10 years of daily use, the chipset southbridge on my A8N32-SLI is slowly dying (integrated ethernet, one of the two legacy IDE plug, and last week, all four sata are out of order). So I'm using the backups the A8N32 provide: SiI3132 internal SATA port to boot (and no more CDROM), and the Marvell Yukon for Ethernet link to the Intenet).
> 
> While checking the system, I came across... a dying 480W power supply that can't provide required voltages anymore (2.9v to the 3.3v line... The BIOS setup hardware monitor was showing red lines !). I'm running actually with a small 330W spare PSU with way better voltages stability, but that seems to have a random short-circuit ont the 'power on/off' wire.
> Low power: basic usage only... well, that is when I succeed to boot. (Even touching the case might have the same effect as holding the power button continuously pressed : brutal power off).
> 
> New modular PSU is on the way, and another A8N32 should come too (thanks to Ebay !).
> I'm using VSuite Ramdisk (free edition) for WinXp. Quite fast, able to use hidden memory (usefull when switching to the non PAE patched Microsoft Kernel), but this one seems to max out at 4Gb... But really, as temp directory, and holding a few softwares on it, 4Gb is quite big...
> Negociated Sata speed should be what will have the best impact on speed, I think... With a Sata-2 controller, if neither the SSD goes back to Sata-1 (I've read that might happen on old hardware...), they should operate at nearly same speed...
> 
> At Sata-1 speed, only 150MB/s will be available... Quite slow for device designed to way more bandwidth...
> 
> Ah, here, as read speed seems in the same range, looks like the intel is a bit faster on write tests : 500MB/s (on a sata2, will be capped at 300MB/s max) as M4 is 175MB/s (128GB) or 260MB/s (256Gb/512Gb)...
> 
> Herm
> (Wow, had enough time to type without brutal reboot... I'm hitting the Submit button now !)


See, 16GB could be super fun. And whoever needs these Qimonda's can have them as soon as I am 100% stable.

I've actually been benching these SSD's on my s939 while you were writing that. Watched the green box popup in the bottom right corner as Intel 520 was finishing its round.

Not looking good on our old boards. Looks like M4 was in sataII and Intel was in sataI?



And here are the contenders!

Crucial M4 120GB long time OS drive VS. Intel 520 Series 111GB (lol) old azz long time random drive





I mean look... M4 practically doubled the performance. All 4 slots are capable of same sata trasnfer, right?


----------



## seaFs

Look, it's bad alignment, and with SSDs it's all about the alignment.


----------



## SwishaMane

Never heard of SSD alignment... I formatted the drive before the bench. Not a big deal I guess. M4 putting in good work, and I'd rather not have an Intel device in my AMD setup. HA HAAAA


----------



## seaFs

Not only format the partition, delete it and let windows 7 create a new partition. Windows will take care of good alignment.


----------



## StormX2

yah i used that M4 in my 1366 rig for years. great little guy but it wont give you fantastic Benches on a 939 board hehe

POnly reason why mine benched well at all was due to the ICH10R board


----------



## SwishaMane

I will redo the partition and benchmark tonight, I just doubt its going to affect it much.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> yah i used that M4 in my 1366 rig for years. great little guy but it wont give you fantastic Benches on a 939 board hehe
> 
> POnly reason why mine benched well at all was due to the ICH10R board


As you can see, it did surprisingly well. SataII speeds maxed out. I'm ok with this... lol

Would a sataIII pci expansion card raise the SSd's to sataIII speed in these old machines? Would they be bootable in a way that doesn't extend boot time dramatically?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16816124045

I'm just taking shots in the dark here trying to learn some things & help us expand our rigs. Raid both of these sata III SSDs? lol


----------



## seaFs

No need to increase bandwidth any further. The only thing that matters about an SSD in a CPU bottlenecked system (aka 939) is the access time to storage.


----------



## SwishaMane

Got my 16GB of DDR1 on order... $18.00. HA HAAAAA

To boot the 16GB DDR1, I need to CMOS reset, and initial boot on normal DDR just to get BIOS configured, then I can swap dimms and go for it?

We'll see what happens!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> No need to increase bandwidth any further. The only thing that matters about an SSD in a CPU bottlenecked system (aka 939) is the access time to storage.


Well, my access time looked pretty good, so I guess I'll ignore it like I had been. Just got that SSD for free and was curious if it was worth the swap.


----------



## StormX2

16gb on a 939 platform?

what the heck board lets you run that many 1 gb sticks?


----------



## seaFs

A8N32-SLI with 4 slots using 4GB double-stacked Samsung UCCC. This is absolute crack


----------



## Herm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Got my 16GB of DDR1 on order... $18.00. HA HAAAAA


Congrats !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> To boot the 16GB DDR1, I need to CMOS reset, and initial boot on normal DDR just to get BIOS configured, then I can swap dimms and go for it?


You may install one (or two, but not in dual channel : one in a black slot, one in a blue slot) to boot.

In the Bios setup, in Advanced -> Jumperfree configuration, turn the "AI Overclocking" to Manual, CPU FSB Frequency set at 200MHz (standard).

Then you could now populate all the DIMM slots and able to boot. (If you have the message : USB power overload, system will stop in 15 seconds, re-check that AI Overclocking setting).

In the Advanced -> CPU configuration, you may turn Command rate manually on 1T (yes, these registered DIMMs are able to run 1T even with 4 DIMMs filled !).

Still in Advanced -> CPU configuration -> Memory Setting -> Memory Configuration, turn "Memory Hole" to Enabled (only available on E0 or more CPU). When disabled, "only" 15Gb will be usable...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> We'll see what happens!
> Well, my access time looked pretty good, so I guess I'll ignore it like I had been. Just got that SSD for free and was curious if it was worth the swap.


Herm


----------



## seaFs

And set Mem clock limit to 166MHz, otherwise it will not boot. You need to overclock the base clock to achieve DDR400


----------



## SwishaMane

Thanks Herm and seaFs. This is gonna rock! You ever tried just two dimms in dual channel for 8gb to get a max OC and timings?


----------



## gasparspeed

Guys, for those who don't know it. HWBot/OC-Esports is doing right now a Socket 939 CPU Only (and GeForce 7000 Series) competition: http://oc-esports.io/#!/round/roadtopro_challenger_season2_division7_round2


----------



## rhkcommander959

dang no 7000 cards left here.

I finally finished my peltier block, just need to lap it more. Then we get to see if my 3800x2 that was 3.2 stable is dead or alive (its delidded, I think a transistor took some damage).


----------



## CrazyMonkey

Bahhh got 2 7950GT and a 7900GTO back in Portugal... Here I just have one 7600GT that I use to test Systems... Either way my Optys are not the best ones to bench...


----------



## gasparspeed

Well, i just tried benching my NF4 Infinity but i got multiple problems (NVidia drivers won't install, CPU reached the Infinity's shutdown temperature, etc.)
And since i only have 7300LE I just ended getting a nice Memory Clock submission and that's all









Oh, also, i'm buying a DFI Lanparty SLI-DR Expert this week!







Now i need a better cooler, any suggestions? Since new AMD coolers don't fit socket 939 (their backplate has the 4 holes thingy and 939 is only using 2 holes).


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Well, i just tried benching my NF4 Infinity but i got multiple problems (NVidia drivers won't install, CPU reached the Infinity's shutdown temperature, etc.)
> And since i only have 7300LE I just ended getting a nice Memory Clock submission and that's all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, also, i'm buying a DFI Lanparty SLI-DR Expert this week!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now i need a better cooler, any suggestions? Since new AMD coolers don't fit socket 939 (their backplate has the 4 holes thingy and 939 is only using 2 holes).


I rep'ed you for at least trying.









Cooler- 212 Evo modded for 939.








http://www.overclock.net/t/293448/the-socket-939-appreciation-club-and-knowledgebase-official/25500_100#post_18809069


----------



## SoloCamo

So finally put together a s939 build from parts I had laying around again...

Opteron 180
Rosewill RCX-Z1 heatsink/fan
ASUS A8AE-LE (crap board that came w/ an hp system)
2x 1gb DDR400 Kingston Hyper-X
Low profile Sapphire 6670 1gb gddr5
ocz 520w psu
seagate barracuda 500gb 7200rpm

I've got my ocz gold vx ddr500 1gb kit (512mb x2) installed alongside the 2gb kit of ddr400 hyper-x and the memory controller auto downclocks to ddr333. Being that this board is limited due to being from an OEM is there any software based tools for these cpu's to maybe oc it a bit? I know this Opty can atleast do 2.6ghz as I had it at 2.7 on an older gigabyte agp board.


----------



## Mr.Scott

There is no hope for OC on that board.
4 sticks of ram in most all 939 boards will automatically clock to DDR333.
Wanna sell those Gold VX sticks? PM me if interested.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> I rep'ed you for at least trying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cooler- 212 Evo modded for 939.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/293448/the-socket-939-appreciation-club-and-knowledgebase-official/25500_100#post_18809069


Yeah, at least i got 262Mhz out of this Crucial Ballistix modules (BIOS kept changing the FSBRAM ratio itself, so even tho I set manually 1:1 ratio and 275Mhz Base Clock in BIOS i got only 262.2Mhz







). Anyways i also have a set of BH-5 OCZ Golds and a set of TCCDs Corsair XMS Pros that i'm waiting to bench on the Expert board when it arrives. Tomorrow i'll try installing Windows XP on the Infinity, that should work better with Socket 939 right?

Woah, that's a nice mod actually. Do you think that could be also applied to a 412S? I may be able to get one for cheap (cheaper than a new 212 Evo). Since it looks like the 212 Evo and 412S share the design of the retention mechanism.
Because I don't think a 212Evo can handle my FX-60 OC'd (i mean, this Arctic Freezer 64 LP, even tho it's kinda small, it must be similar to a stock 212 Evo since it has a push-pull of 5K RPM 92mm Deltas and still got 45ºC ish Idle and 85+ ºC Load while running 2.75Ghz @ 1.4-ish V)


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Yeah, at least i got 262Mhz out of this Crucial Ballistix modules (BIOS kept changing the FSBRAM ratio itself, so even tho I set manually 1:1 ratio and 275Mhz Base Clock in BIOS i got only 262.2Mhz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Anyways i also have a set of BH-5 OCZ Golds and a set of TCCDs Corsair XMS Pros that i'm waiting to bench on the Expert board when it arrives. Tomorrow i'll try installing Windows XP on the Infinity, that should work better with Socket 939 right?
> 
> Woah, that's a nice mod actually. Do you think that could be also applied to a 412S? I may be able to get one for cheap (cheaper than a new 212 Evo). Since it looks like the 212 Evo and 412S share the design of the retention mechanism.
> Because I don't think a 212Evo can handle my FX-60 OC'd (i mean, this Arctic Freezer 64 LP, even tho it's kinda small, it must be similar to a stock 212 Evo since it has a push-pull of 5K RPM 92mm Deltas and still got 45ºC ish Idle and 85+ ºC Load while running 2.75Ghz @ 1.4-ish V)


Yes, the mod will work on the 412S.
The Arctic Freezer is crap next to a 212 or 412.
212 on any of my dual cores keeps temp around 45-50c load @ 1.55v
You will want XP for all those benches except Cinebench. That bench scores better on W7.


----------



## SoloCamo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> There is no hope for OC on that board.
> 4 sticks of ram in most all 939 boards will automatically clock to DDR333.
> Wanna sell those Gold VX sticks? PM me if interested.


You are right, no hope from a BIOS overclock. However my memory served me right for once and clock gen still works fine. Not ideal of course but it's stable so far as far as gaming goes atleast .



Edit:

Meant to include the mem tab, not spd tab...



All four slots filled did drop it as always to 166mhz unfortunately but the extra 1gb of memory and the fact that I can manage a 300mhz cpu oc & have the memory at 183mhz and cas2.5 vs cas3 200mhz makes it worth it.


----------



## rhkcommander959

You can pin mod fot higher voltages and use clock gen to push it some


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Yes, the mod will work on the 412S.
> The Arctic Freezer is crap next to a 212 or 412.
> 212 on any of my dual cores keeps temp around 45-50c load @ 1.55v
> You will want XP for all those benches except Cinebench. That bench scores better on W7.


Hm, i was able to pass only one Cinebench 11.5 run before overheating and triggering the thermal shutdown protection, so I may be able to do other run on CineBench... And i'll probably get a 412S and use that mod.
Anyways, thank you very much for your help!


----------



## seaFs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Thanks Herm and seaFs. This is gonna rock! You ever tried just two dimms in dual channel for 8gb to get a max OC and timings?


Well, I did the single DIMM test, an it was disapointing. Below 240MHz (I guess it was 238) with CL3-4-4-8 or something like that, and It wasn't even stable. It's still UCCC ICs on the DIMMs, so you either get something average or below average, nothing impressive. The DIMMs were introducied back in 2003, so much older tech than Qimonda CF-5 or Samsung ZCCC from 2007.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SoloCamo*
> 
> You are right, no hope from a BIOS overclock. However my memory served me right for once and clock gen still works fine. Not ideal of course but it's stable so far as far as gaming goes atleast .
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> 
> Meant to include the mem tab, not spd tab...
> 
> 
> 
> All four slots filled did drop it as always to 166mhz unfortunately but the extra 1gb of memory and the fact that I can manage a 300mhz cpu oc & have the memory at 183mhz and cas2.5 vs cas3 200mhz makes it worth it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> You can pin mod fot higher voltages and use clock gen to push it some


I'm actually surprised clockgen worked. Usually it only works on Nvidia chipsets, otherwise I would have suggested it.
You should be able to adjust the shutdown temp or disable it in the bios on the Infinity board.


----------



## SoloCamo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> I'm actually surprised clockgen worked. Usually it only works on Nvidia chipsets, otherwise I would have suggested it.
> You should be able to adjust the shutdown temp or disable it in the bios on the Infinity board.


Are you thinking of ntune? I remember that being the one for nvidia boards only? I've been out of the s939 for quite a while though so I'm trying to remember all the ways about overclocking them.

On a side note... All I want is 2x 2gb ddr400 non ecc... did that ever exist? I paired the system with a 6670 for some modern gaming and it's done quite well considering, but the lower speed memory w/ 3gb and lack of memory is hurting me more than anything at this point. Even 2.8ghz on this gpu isn't really going to be as big of a deal over 2.5-2.6 with faster memory.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SoloCamo*
> 
> On a side note... All I want is 2x 2gb ddr400 non ecc... did that ever exist? I paired the system with a 6670 for some modern gaming and it's done quite well considering, but the lower speed memory w/ 3gb and lack of memory is hurting me more than anything at this point. Even 2.8ghz on this gpu isn't really going to be as big of a deal over 2.5-2.6 with faster memory.


There are 2 gig sticks out there. Most are ECC. All are expensive.
Most boards do not support 2 gig sticks.

http://www.memoryx.com/bdg.html


----------



## rhkcommander959

I've had good luck with clockgen in the past, it just uses the ICC. Used it on a lot of OEM products, hell I even used it to overclock my dell laptop a million years ago with a pentium-m







. Nvidia, ati, VIA on either Intel or AMD.

Did we ever figure out if the Asus a8's are able to do what they do because of hardware, or is it their BIOS? Could we put the ramslip, or whatever it is called for ECC into say the DFIs?


----------



## Herm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> And set Mem clock limit to 166MHz, otherwise it will not boot. You need to overclock the base clock to achieve DDR400


Hi seaFs,

Ah yes, that seems to depend on the CPU memory controller and the mainboard quality... I guess I'm lucky,, but you're right, if it doesn't boot, check each DIMM alone for faulty ones, and then ... lower the memclock ...

Found a talk about it at Anandtech forum:
http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=1467493

Herm


----------



## rhkcommander959

Welp I bought me 4x4gb anyway, I'll give playing with it a shot but I'm going into this knowing it is probably worthless without the a8n's.

I'd like an a8n32 sli but the prices are too high for me, and I am nostalgic on the other motherboards I have.

Actually, I am now wondering if it would work on my Abit Fatal1ty AN8 SLI.... Same chipset NF4 I believe. I even have the μGuru panel hanging around for it. But the Audiomax soundcard is dead IIRC...

Either way, I have a few oddball motherboards around that I could try it out on. I have an RD480 Sapphire motherboard with white PCB, but it needs caps and probably wouldn't be worth the bother


----------



## SoloCamo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> There are 2 gig sticks out there. Most are ECC. All are expensive.
> Most boards do not support 2 gig sticks.
> 
> http://www.memoryx.com/bdg.html


Thanks for confirming and for the link, seems like a good site to keep saved. May just pick up another pair of 1gb sticks if found cheap enough shipped. As far as the gold vx, I actually won that many years ago in contest when they were brand new and the nostalgia kills me with them so I'm not selling them.. yet.









Unfortunately my 2.75ghz OC finally locked up so I' dropping it back down to 2.6ghz. Can't complain considering the board is 11 years old and i'm oc'ing via software.. Ironically I have more fun tweaking & gaming on this thing than my main rig that can handle 98% of games maxed at 4k as is... ah well.


----------



## rhkcommander959

Might just need to reapply paste Solocam, there is TIM under the ihs too that could be hindering thermal transfer.

I always had more fun tinkering with 939


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> Might just need to reapply paste Solocam, there is TIM under the ihs too that could be hindering thermal transfer.
> 
> I always had more fun tinkering with 939


Is this a serious threat? How applicable is it to consider ALL the TIM on ALL these chips are bad after all these years? I have a hard time justifying removing the IHS for any reason... but to replace dried out nasty paste for the sake of saving my CPU, that is important. BUT, do you risk killing your CPU for the chance at increasing its longevity?


----------



## SoloCamo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Is this a serious threat? How applicable is it to consider ALL the TIM on ALL these chips are bad after all these years? I have a hard time justifying removing the IHS for any reason... but to replace dried out nasty paste for the sake of saving my CPU, that is important. BUT, do you risk killing your CPU for the chance at increasing its longevity?


TIM does go bad , but atleast with mine it seems to have held up, at least as far as temp sensors tell me. Correct me here if wrong but I thought these cpu's were soldered anyways? At this point I'm limited by my heatsink for temps anyways as it was never really meant for heavy overclocking anyways. I'm using some gelid extreme gc on it for TIM which helps but ultimately for long term I need a better cooler. I'd like to use my FX branded AIO cooler but due to the layout of 939 vs am3+ it won't work without being creative, and creative for me usually ends up in breaking something.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SoloCamo*
> 
> TIM does go bad , but atleast with mine it seems to have held up, at least as far as temp sensors tell me. Correct me here if wrong but I thought these cpu's were soldered anyways? At this point I'm limited by my heatsink for temps anyways as it was never really meant for heavy overclocking anyways. I'm using some gelid extreme gc on it for TIM which helps but ultimately for long term I need a better cooler. I'd like to use my FX branded AIO cooler but due to the layout of 939 vs am3+ it won't work without being creative, and creative for me usually ends up in breaking something.


A little hope for ya. I had an original H50 back in the day. It only came with AM2/3+ hardware (plus Intel stuff ya know)... Well, I got this H50 on a s939 setup back in the day. The trick is to use the AM2/3 bracket, and slightly modify it for s939...

Below is a paint pic I scratched up real quick... On AM2/3 bracket, the two posts that are diagonal to each other are almost PERFECT dead center to the s939 bracket's two posts. Mod your AIO cooler bracket and turn it, if possible, to make it mate with s939 posts... I'm assuming its just a ring with 4 screw positions... Just turn it so two of those mounts align with the s939 socket. Might have to do a little mod work for clearances and making it fit perfect, but that should be a useful start.

??



Here's the old shot of it too... Ahh, good times! My old engineering sample is in there... wish I never sold it!


----------



## rhkcommander959

Tim dries out, any movement can break that thermal bond on a heat sink, fixed many computers that were older and we're moved then ran hot. Same with gpu.

I always had temps drop noticeably by delis ding and cleaning, but I never used the ihs again after. That little seal shouldn't allow much movement, bUT it isn't a perfect seal either there is a gap. Is it enough to greatly deteriorate the heat transfer? I can't be sure. But I am more inclined to blame a failing oc that light on Tim rather than silicon degradation.

Typing this up on my phone, sorry for shortness and typos etc

Also for mounting 939, you can make a bracket or buy an adapter and run it over the top of the heat sink... I have a bracket that I mounted to my water block to use it with almost every socket cpu.. will snag pics later

Also, the CPUs are definitely NOT soldered. every delid Ive done has dropped temps, some more than others, but 5-10C isnt too uncommon. The practice can be a bit risky, but if you are careful and slow its not bad at all.


----------



## mattliston

corsair and NZXT both offer brackets to fit 754 and 939

submit a support ticket or call customer service of either, and they will help you.


----------



## cdoublejj

Most modern games on steam don't need that much horse power anyways but, when running skype and a web browser some time the CPU maxes out when multitasking and or gaming form time to time.


----------



## SwishaMane

I think my RAM is delivered... Gonna be a geeked night!


----------



## rhkcommander959

As promised, here is how I took my old heatsink that was setup for S-462/939 and used it for LGA1366 and other more modern heat sinks.



This is a swiftech mcw5002-at, with peltier. The base plate wasn't compatible with anything but 462, and a friend tried to help remove the bump to make a flat base, and ruined it unfortunately. So I've been making one with a copper bar I got for a couple bucks. I would prefer a thicker base but lack the necessary machining capabilities...

The bracket was from thermaltake, there was another company that made the same one. Couldn't find it again for sale but I'll try again later


----------



## SwishaMane

So my first impressions of the new RAM are positive. I just changed a couple settings in the BIOS and swapped dimms. Didn't CMOS reset, but did only boot one dimm at first to make sure everything was working well.



I'm at 3-3-3-8-1T right now, and I think the RAM could do CL2.5, but IDK about CL2. My air cooler is weak for the CPU, so for stability, Im at 248x10.5 for 2.6ghz, 200mhz DRAM.



Check out that doublestacked goodness... mmm.











Below are my Aida64 Cache benchmark results. First is 8GB Qimonda config @ 3ghz (2-3-3-8-1T) , second is 16GB Samsung config @ 3ghz, (3-3-3-8-1T)





Both benchmarks were ran multiple times to get best numbers possible (since results vary by 100MB/s or so randomly). So this 16GB setup as-is is performing better than the 8GB setup.

I'm able to boot and run full OC at 3ghz, but due to weak CPU cooler, I crash within a minute (Prime95 Blend). Even after a few minutes at 2.6ghz, I can pretty much touch 60C. Looking into new cooling for sure.

I will be keeping my 248x10.5 for 2.6ghz config, and start there for my RAM OC to see where these bad boys max out at @ CL3. If its not worthwhile,I'll just stick with 200Mhz, and go for stable at 3ghz again once I get a new cooler.


----------



## gordesky1

Guys i have a LANPARTY UT RDX200 CF-DR i wanted to get it back up and running, and for some reason it will not boot with a amd 5x card 5850 or a 5870.. it will just make a beep and all the diagnostic lights on the bottom will be on but one is blinking... But if i try a 4x card 4850 it will boot fine.. It also boots with a 4890 but it has a bad fan so i cant use that right now..

Tho i think while back i was reading some 939 boards has issues with the 5x cards with booting?


----------



## seaFs

@Swisha: Nice rig








Try CF-5 2-3-2-5 1T @ 2.7V
My UCCCs won't do CL2.5 with any config. They seem to be just BIG, not fast.


----------



## rhkcommander959

With my cfx3200 I gave up on amd with 5 series and above. Nvidia works just fine. I think in my case it's the pcie 1.0a slots...

Very nice swishamane, are they hot at all?


----------



## SoloCamo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> With my cfx3200 I gave up on amd with 5 series and above. Nvidia works just fine. I think in my case it's the pcie 1.0a slots...
> 
> Very nice swishamane, are they hot at all?


Yes, I always heard the pci-e slots were the issue and AMD cards from the 4 series up wouldn't work. It's one of the reasons I went to Nvidia when I picked up a DX11 card for my s939 rig (yes, I was on S939 until 2011 when I went to an FX-8120). That said, this 6670 seems to work fine for this old OEM board without a hitch so I'm not sure how true it is...


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> @Swisha: Nice rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Try CF-5 2-3-2-5 1T @ 2.7V
> My UCCCs won't do CL2.5 with any config. They seem to be just BIG, not fast.


Not familiar with CF-5... Wasn't that a type of memory IC?? I'm going to try CL2.5 tonight, but it'll be a bummer to reset CMOS settings if it fails, lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> Very nice swishamane, are they hot at all?


I do not know. Did not think about it once I got her running fine. I'm at 2.65v, so probably warm. I'll run a benchmark and see what they do. Case has pretty good airflow, so I don't see them having an issue. But I will see.

I am very stoked for this 16GB tho... A good friend of mine (huge computer guy) asked me what the point was... "Because I can bro... Its legendary.")


----------



## rhkcommander959

I was reading,
Should be able to do 2.5-3-3-8 at 200, 3-4-4-8 at 250, 260-275 is upper limit apparently and they prefer 2.6-2.8v.

Can't wait to play with a set, we will see. I have 4x1 in the cfx working but it sounds destined to fail. Hopefully the Abit will do it


----------



## SwishaMane

Just wanted to give you guys a heads-up / first dibs type thing. I just got my order for a Sapphire RX 480 in on newegg, so I'll be purging all leftover GPUs in the house to make up a few bucks back on the purchase.

What I'll have...

eVGA GTX 580 1.5GB w/ Aquacomputer full cover block (really nice card all around 9.5 / 10, block itself was $120 new) -$ idk yet

eVGA GTX 260 C216 w/ Arctic Accelero Extreme GTX cooler 896MB -$35 or so

eVGA 8800GTX 768MB stock cooler -$25 or so

All this will be on the FS area once I'm ready.

I'll also be letting go of the Intel 520 120GB SSD I recently acquired. Just don't need it. $50 or so?? Will chime in once FS thread goes up. NOT TRYING TO SELL HERE, just a FYI for the s939 homies... Cause i know a couple of the cards above could come in handy or for nostalgia...

















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> I was reading,
> Should be able to do 2.5-3-3-8 at 200, 3-4-4-8 at 250, 260-275 is upper limit apparently and they prefer 2.6-2.8v.
> 
> Can't wait to play with a set, we will see. I have 4x1 in the cfx working but it sounds destined to fail. Hopefully the Abit will do it


And btw, i was just running again at CL2.5 on the 16Gb Samsung DDR1, and performance was identical to CL3, but it was still 100% solid. 3DMark06 passed perfectly. 2.6vDRAM.


----------



## Herm

Congrats SwishaMane !

I'm back too, after a full dismount / rebuilt of my tower.

New power supply 750W ATX 24 pins (previous was 480W ATX 20 pins);
Quite new A8N32SLI-Deluxe (sold as used on ebay, but seeing the caps, seeing the strength I had to use to settle RAM DIMMs again, I wonder ...);
Fixed a command wire (power on...) which insulating was cut on a sharp metal edge from the case : some tape, and a new path for those cables. Other wires seems to have poor insulating too... Nice case, Antec, but not so high quality wires, that computer is only 10 years old;
And some dust cleanig...

And all is working again, yes !

Herm


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> eVGA GTX 580 1.5GB w/ Aquacomputer full cover block (really nice card all around 9.5 / 10, block itself was $120 new) -$ idk yet
> 
> eVGA GTX 260 C216 w/ Arctic Accelero Extreme GTX cooler 896MB -$35 or so
> 
> eVGA 8800GTX 768MB stock cooler -$25 or so


Wow, I actually have almost the same cards







I've got:
- Zotac GTX 480 Reference
- ASUS GTX 260 (but not 216 Core) Reference
- ASUS 8800GTX Reference w/ Accelero Xtreme and broken Accelero fans









Also, a bit more on-topic. I need a new heatsink since my Freezer 64 is maxed out with this FX-60 (even with a 5000RPM 92mm Delta), now, i've bought a DFI SLI-DR Expert and it comes with an Freezer 64 Pro (well, it has 1 extra heatpipe







), i could just swap the fan with the Delta and it may work better.
But, I also just found my old Scythe Ninja-Plus! I heard it's one of the best Socket 939 coolers (it actually ran my [email protected] passive during a week peaking at 59ºC while gaming IIRC).
But i don't have it's backplate, it should work without the original Scythe backplate right? (because the Scythe backplate was full metal and i could use the stock one, but that's plastic and it's not so tough and I don't want to break the MoBo since this heatsink gives tons of pressure when installed and i guess it needs that backplate)
Also, since the Expert has it's socket in a pretty weird position, the huge Ninja-Plus might not fit inside my case... What should I do? use the Ninja-Plus or the Freezer 64 Pro w/Delta Fans?


----------



## CrazyMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gordesky1*
> 
> Guys i have a LANPARTY UT RDX200 CF-DR i wanted to get it back up and running, and for some reason it will not boot with a amd 5x card 5850 or a 5870.. it will just make a beep and all the diagnostic lights on the bottom will be on but one is blinking... But if i try a 4x card 4850 it will boot fine.. It also boots with a 4890 but it has a bad fan so i cant use that right now..
> 
> Tho i think while back i was reading some 939 boards has issues with the 5x cards with booting?


Had a similar issue with my DFI LP NF4, everytime I used it on the first PCI-E slot it didn't work (HD5850), if it was on the second slot was working just fine... Same problem on a A8N32-E SLI, but if you change the SLI/non SLI to SLI mode it worked fine. So I think it has something to do with the lanes on the PCI E on the 939!


----------



## gordesky1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyMonkey*
> 
> Had a similar issue with my DFI LP NF4, everytime I used it on the first PCI-E slot it didn't work (HD5850), if it was on the second slot was working just fine... Same problem on a A8N32-E SLI, but if you change the SLI/non SLI to SLI mode it worked fine. So I think it has something to do with the lanes on the PCI E on the 939!


Tired both slots and still the same problem.. going to see if there is a option to switch sli/non to sli pretty sure there is if i can remember correctly, If i still cant get it going with the 5x i will get the good old 4890 going in it which needs a blower fan

Than see if it can still do 3 to 3.1ghz on the opyy 165 really wish the board can do more than 4gbs cause i would use it for more stuff server etc..


----------



## rhkcommander959

Dfi cfx3200 booted right up. One cpu is dead, it is delidded and one of the chips lost a leg. Should be repairable by someone with surface mount skills, assuming i can find a dead donor... I used silicone to protect those smd's, but it wasn't good enough. Maybe some liquid contact junk can patch it. I don't think I can solder That fine of detail, but I have heard of this stuff to solder/desolder smds easy by melting it into the solder, melt point drops significantly and it stays molten longer

That means I have at least 1 opty in my 2nd cfx3200 and a not-delidded 3800x2. Use to have 2ea.

Dfi didn't like the 4 gb sticks, big surprise. Tried some stuff, c1 reboot loop no matter what.

The Abit is acting goofy. Not booting, going to clean the bios chip and socket, spray mem slots, cpu slot with cleaner. Hopefully she can be saved, quite bummed on this one. Didn't have much time to fight it. But IIRC it didn't like my crucial trasers too.

Guess I will have to keep an eye open for Asus a8n deals if I want to make it work. Or learn assembly and get a kit... see if I can't make the magic that is in the asus a8n and make it work on others, before 16gb is obsolete lol


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> The Abit is acting goofy. Not booting, going to clean the bios chip and socket, spray mem slots, cpu slot with cleaner. Hopefully she can be saved, quite bummed on this one. Didn't have much time to fight it. But IIRC it didn't like my crucial trasers too.


Fresh battery.








Abit's with uGuru are battery whores. If there is not at least 2.9v on the battery, goofy **** happens.


----------



## rhkcommander959

I was thinking about trying it, thanks Mr.Scott. It was lighting up the dots for uGuru too. Clearing the cmos it did give me the CF error, so I bet you are right.

Will give it a shot over the weekend and report back, wish me luck. Otherwise I will have to settle for 4gb on the CFX3200


----------



## SoloCamo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Fresh battery.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Abit's with uGuru are battery whores. If there is not at least 2.9v on the battery, goofy **** happens.


Cannot stress this one enough. A lot of older boards unfortunately get tossed out as failing when sometimes it's simply the battery. If a board is 5+ years old I replace the battery with a new one just to play it safe on all of my builds.


----------



## rhkcommander959

Tried a new batt, no luck. Will pull voltage on it another time. Struggles with different post codes.


----------



## cdoublejj

hhhmm maybe a WC and peltier would help on my s939, maybe i could squeeze out more cpu power since that's my only bottle neck atm. a golden chip would help too.


----------



## rhkcommander959

mcw5002s are still around and dirt cheap. and 5000s. I was running 3.2 stable on a 3800x2, which I got up to 3.45 or so but didn't spend much time there other than benching.

There was a 400W or so design with a computer to keep the temps near ambient to stop condensation, but the guy making them had to stop

Got an old water fountain I've been thinking about using to help cool the pelt. Has a reservoir built into it. Probably would be better just running it without the pelt but its worth trying. thinking cpu block > rad to precool it some> water fountain setup, and throwing the pump in somewhere.


----------



## rhkcommander959

mcw5002s are still around and dirt cheap. and 5000s. I was running 3.2 stable on a 3800x2, which I got up to 3.45 or so but didn't spend much time there other than benching.

There was a 400W or so design with a but the guy making them had to stop

Got an old water fountain I've been thinking about using to help cool the pelt. Has a reservoir built into it. Probably would be better just running it without the pelt but its worth trying. thinking cpu block > rad to precool it some> water fountain setup, and throwing the pump in somewhere.


----------



## SwishaMane

Whoever needs an 8GB set of RAM for their s939, let me know. I have my Qimonda set leftover now that I made the jump on the 16GB set.



















































































































EDIT: Sapphire RX 480 is delivered today! W00t! Off topic I know, but DWAAAAAAMMMMMMM! Can you tell I'm stoked?


----------



## rhkcommander959

Well got one of my opteron 165s' booting at 3.15 (350x9). Havent tested it for stability other than memtest. All on the dfi cfx3200. Using 4x1gb OCZ memory, sadly this memory isnt anything that special. The pc3500 sticks. Tops out around ddr550 from what I can tell, but I am no timing guru either, just played with sub timings really - been too long to remember the more advanced stuff yet. Doesn't seem to care much about voltage.

This cpu im 90% sure isn't delidded too, might be able to get more. 3.2 on an opty if I get it stable should be pretty nice. Not using the pelt on it either, I'm using a swiftech storm. Looks like I could drill another hole inside to help free up some restriction too, although this block is king of restriction with the jets.

When I free up a SSD I will start benching again.


----------



## StormX2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> Well got one of my opteron 165s' booting at 3.15 (350x9). Havent tested it for stability other than memtest. All on the dfi cfx3200. Using 4x1gb OCZ memory, sadly this memory isnt anything that special. The pc3500 sticks. Tops out around ddr550 from what I can tell, but I am no timing guru either, just played with sub timings really - been too long to remember the more advanced stuff yet. Doesn't seem to care much about voltage.
> 
> This cpu im 90% sure isn't delidded too, might be able to get more. 3.2 on an opty if I get it stable should be pretty nice. Not using the pelt on it either, I'm using a swiftech storm. Looks like I could drill another hole inside to help free up some restriction too, although this block is king of restriction with the jets.
> 
> When I free up a SSD I will start benching again.


yah Stock voltage OC'ing on 165 was what I enjoyed. but you will start losing stability at those clocks and stock voltage on the CPU and Chipset respectively.

How is your chipset cooling?

Thats one hell of a mobo though, 350 fsb is no joke


----------



## mllrkllr88

Just found this club, awesome, I have some questions. I have the Asus A8N32-SLI board and I am having lots of problems getting past 350 memory. I have some really awesome Samsung TCCD sticks that should do much more but I am wondering if its the board limits or what. Do you guys know if this board is capable of more? I really want to get up near 400, which I am pretty sure the memory can do but is the board holding me back??

351 mem sub: http://valid.x86.fr/uyshaq


----------



## SwishaMane

Holy crap! 350Mhz DRAM Freq. Beast mode pimpin... Can you even run SuperPi without a crash?


----------



## mllrkllr88

No it cant do anything except save CPUz valid file at 350 mem, and barely at that. The most I can do with Pi32 is 235 2-3-3-6. I have seen some guys do 250+ 2-2-2-5 but I am wondering if I need a different board for some top memory subs.


----------



## rhkcommander959

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> yah Stock voltage OC'ing on 165 was what I enjoyed. but you will start losing stability at those clocks and stock voltage on the CPU and Chipset respectively.
> 
> How is your chipset cooling?


Stock cooling ATM on the chipset, just repasted it. Highest I ever recall it going was in the 50sºC, lately 40's. I will try to dig up my old double-egg mod, I used a dead DFI motherboards chrome egg-shape heat sink to cool the southbridge at one point, wasnt necessary at all but looked funny with two of them on the motherboard. Took a bit of grinding and cutting to get it to fit because of its footprint. I will dig through my water cooling stuff, I think I have a 1/4" waterblock from an AIO kit that was crap that I could easily mount., run a 1/2 by 1/4 wye.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mllrkllr88*
> 
> Do you guys know if this board is capable of more? I really want to get up near 400, which I am pretty sure the memory can do but is the board holding me back??
> 
> 351 mem sub: http://valid.x86.fr/uyshaq


Not sure, but nice overclock thus far, welcome to the gang


----------



## rhkcommander959

Guess I am a little more organized than I use to be, found some old pics. That Iceberq 4 seemed to be some better than stock, looked nice with the setup IMO. I still have it here somewhere, Maybe I will just pop that sucker back on

Actually, I think the iceberq was the one I had to cut/grind on a bit, I only had to notch the mounting arms for the southbridge with the stock-fanned dfi heat sink

Found a 1tb I dual-booted back in the day, vista and 7. Might see some benches sooner


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mllrkllr88*
> 
> No it cant do anything except save CPUz valid file at 350 mem, and barely at that. The most I can do with Pi32 is 235 2-3-3-6. I have seen some guys do 250+ 2-2-2-5 but I am wondering if I need a different board for some top memory subs.


What is the circuitry on the side by the 24pin connector? What is all that doing? Volt monitor? Any schematics of how to do that? I love doing soem hardware mods. Only reason i want to keep my 8800GTX, caps and overvolts! KILL IT!


----------



## StormX2

oh that sexy dfi board


----------



## mllrkllr88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> What is the circuitry on the side by the 24pin connector? What is all that doing? Volt monitor? Any schematics of how to do that? I love doing soem hardware mods. Only reason i want to keep my 8800GTX, caps and overvolts! KILL IT!


Its a pretty simple straightforward voltmod with a digital voltage readout. Two things: Firstly, the board wont give more than 1.64v and second, it gets really flaky when you dive past 1.6v from the bios. When I did subzero on my X2 3800+ I found that it wanted 1.9v (1.45v in the bios) to be happy. There was no guide that I could find, and I didn't post my work anywhere but ill give it to anyone that wants it. I also have Vddr in the works as well since the board can only drive 3.2v vdmm, and BH-5 memory wants at least 3.5v for max clocks.


----------



## rhkcommander959

Have you tried pin modding? pretty easy on 939. Not sure if you can use that to boost it higher or not.

Finding that both DFI CFX3200 motherboards I have are having flexing issues on two of the ram slots, I have to use my other hand to push against the force - and no I am not pushing hard enough to make the clips lock - just enough to engage the pins then flipping them over.

Might have to jump ship to an asus a8n...

But I did start playing with my 4x512 crucial tracers again


----------



## SwishaMane

So my RX 480 was ruled out for the dmg to my asus sabertooth 990fx.. Must have been a water leak I didnt catch. SUCKS! I am super interested in the volt mods JUST BECAUSE. My old ASUS A8N-E was volt modded to adjust cpu vCore on the fly. It could do 1.81vCore. WOAH! But that digital readout is sick. Id like to have it show both cpu and ram voltage.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> So my RX 480 was ruled out for the dmg to my asus sabertooth 990fx.. Must have been a water leak I didnt catch. SUCKS! I am super interested in the volt mods JUST BECAUSE. My old ASUS A8N-E was volt modded to adjust cpu vCore on the fly. It could do 1.81vCore. WOAH! But that digital readout is sick. Id like to have it show both cpu and ram voltage.


I don't think you need to actually do a Volt Mod to have a digital readout directly from the board.


----------



## gasparspeed

Hey guys, look what i just got on my postbox!
It's got one blown cap (or at least that's what it looks like, it has like cotton-like stuff just on the top) maybe I should replace it before using the board? Anyways, it's still alive and working perfectly!
And actually, it came with a surprise, a second Karajan sound module and a almost full set of accessories (but it doesn't have the backplate







)
Anyways, I'll be giving it some overclock soon


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mllrkllr88*
> 
> No it cant do anything except save CPUz valid file at 350 mem, and barely at that. The most I can do with Pi32 is 235 2-3-3-6. I have seen some guys do 250+ 2-2-2-5 but I am wondering if I need a different board for some top memory subs.


You need a DFI board, plain and simple.
That Asus board is a good board but it will not compete with DFI in 939.


----------



## rhkcommander959

Just did a quick superpi 1m in windows 7 (which is running like crap), got 32.203s, a 4200x2 (forgot i had one, it is delidded... I think I delidded darn near every 939 I had







). Realized I had the block hooked up bassackwards too. Temps were still nice anyway







. Mem is running loose timings at ddr500, if I clear cmos I have to take sticks out to boot again on either CFX3200 - any way to flash better default values?

Not sure if the 4gb of OCZ memory I got is worth trying to work with- they keep getting errors in memtest. I will play with them another time.

Been reading up on that old guide from ocztony, I can upload it somehow if anyone wants a copy.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> Just did a quick superpi 1m in windows 7 (which is running like crap), got 32.203s, a 4200x2 (forgot i had one, it is delidded... I think I delidded darn near every 939 I had
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Realized I had the block hooked up bassackwards too. Temps were still nice anyway
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Mem is running loose timings at ddr500, if I clear cmos I have to take sticks out to boot again on either CFX3200 - any way to flash better default values?
> 
> Not sure if the 4gb of OCZ memory I got is worth trying to work with- they keep getting errors in memtest. I will play with them another time.
> 
> Been reading up on that old guide from ocztony, I can upload it somehow if anyone wants a copy.


Get outta here... Win7 runs great on s939.









What kind of issues are you hving? I'm on the same win7 install from literally 3 years ago by now, and this machine is running great. Yeah, I'm on my 939 RIGHT NOW chillin on the couch...


----------



## rhkcommander959

it does for sure, i had an ssd that ran fantastically on this same rig. My Old 1tb has a really bugged out install. I've cleaned it up some but will probably nuke it or swap to another ssd. I can barely download a text file from thumb drives for instance.

I have a crucial drive here, I will try to toss 7 on it and get some real benching done:thumb:


----------



## SwishaMane

My 8GB set of Qimonda has been claimed. Hope they work on your board Toughacton!


----------



## rhkcommander959

Welp I gone and done it. An Asus A8N32-SLI Deluxe is on its way to me. Already have the 16gb ram kit







. Also getting a 4400x2 so we wil see what it can do. Pray that the batch gods favor me









until then, going to keep pushing for at least 3.2 stable with one of these chips, and finish work on the pelt to see if I cant reach 3.4+


----------



## Kryton

First off good luck with the new board.
The 4400 X2 probrably won't see 3.4 but 3.2 may be doable - To get the most from it a DFI is required as Mr. Scott pointed out BUT the board itself isn't bad. I have one and it's always done a good job, however it's not a DFI and I have several of those here.

I've noted that for some reason chips of this model don't like clocking up like other X2 models do but it's still a useable chip regardless. We can hope yours will be the exception to the trend and it's possible it will be.


----------



## rhkcommander959

Thanks kryton, we will see. I have plenty of cpus that will do at least 3 for me, the 4200x2 was happy at 3.1 on my bad install of 7.

I have a couple dfi boards laying around, I will probably setup one with my 4x512 crucial tracers on winxp, and I have 4x1 gb of ocz memory but it may be failing. If not I will have another rig potentially. If I have free time I need to try and revive the Abit motherboard too.

Can't wait to play around with a 3+ 939 with 16 gigs of memory though. Always recommended these boards in the day, but was always too busy with dfi boards. I recognize a few of you from dfi street


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> I recognize a few of you from dfi street


Many moons ago.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Many moons ago.


Did anyone ever archive dfi street back in the day?


----------



## SoloCamo

All this DFI talk and I'm ashamed to admit I've yet to own one of their boards. Only really had gigabyte and asus for my 939 boards back then...

That said, are there any reasonably priced DFI 939 boards out there? I'm not looking for the biggest overclock here, but something where I can maybe push to 2.8ghz-3ghz assuming the chip is capable (I've got quite a few 939 cpus I can mess with).


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Did anyone ever archive dfi street back in the day?


Not that I know of.
Myself and Rgone have most of the important stuff saved between us.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SoloCamo*
> 
> All this DFI talk and I'm ashamed to admit I've yet to own one of their boards. Only really had gigabyte and asus for my 939 boards back then...
> 
> That said, are there any reasonably priced DFI 939 boards out there? I'm not looking for the biggest overclock here, but something where I can maybe push to 2.8ghz-3ghz assuming the chip is capable (I've got quite a few 939 cpus I can mess with).


https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/athlons-free-stuff-and-other-low-priced-parts.223987/#post-3488864


----------



## Kryton

Solo, you'd best jump all over that DFI board before it's gone (If it isn't already), that's practically giving it away for that price man!

It's the highest model of the series (SLI-DR) you can get without picking up an Expert/Venus version, has all the SATA ports and it's SLI ready. You will love it once you start using it and I did these with one of those boards:
http://hwbot.org/submission/3246797_bones_cpu_frequency_opteron_148_(san_diego_s939)_3654.79_mhz
http://hwbot.org/submission/3243862_bones_superpi___32m_opteron_148_(san_diego_s939)_21min_29sec_250ms

The board itself is plenty capable, all you'd need is a good CPU and RAM with the ambition to go for it.









Ultra D's themselves can be found easily even now but like any DFI you will normally have to pay a bit more for it. However there are also plenty of deals on these if you look long enough, I've seen some of these pop up for a really cheap price.

If I happen to spot one I'll let you know if you want.


----------



## SwishaMane

That XMS RAM for $10!!! HOLY MOLEY!

PLEASE someone here get that board and RAM.


----------



## rhkcommander959

I saved a couple dfi threads somewhere but never really thought to archive.

I messaged him on TPU, if Solo doesn't want the board I will hit it and the ram


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Not that I know of.
> Myself and Rgone have most of the important stuff saved between us.


You have all the Rebel haven stuff right?


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> You have all the Rebel haven stuff right?


If you mean the bios's and T-mod stuff, yes.


----------



## SwishaMane

What ever happened with that cat with that legendary 1 of a kind CL1 RAM that was supposed to change everything we know about the s939 platform? I haven't heard from him in a couple pages... Hmm...


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> What ever happened with that cat with that legendary 1 of a kind CL1 RAM that was supposed to change everything we know about the s939 platform? I haven't heard from him in a couple pages... Hmm...


He probably realised he wasn't going to fool us... Or maybe he actually realised that with his low-end setup couldn't do it.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> He probably realised he wasn't going to fool us... Or maybe he actually realised that with his low-end setup couldn't do it.


Found out his 6800 (motorola) couldn't interface with the mem controller?


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> Found out his 6800 (motorola) couldn't interface with the mem controller?


I just saw he necro'ed a 2006 thread in 2015 with a off-topic post saying he was doing PC2-6400 (DDR2-800) CL3 @ 1.7V (undervolted) AND with 2x2GB sticks.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> I just saw he necro'ed a 2006 thread in 2015 with a off-topic post saying he was doing PC2-6400 (DDR2-800) CL3 @ 1.7V (undervolted) AND with 2x2GB sticks.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> I just saw he necro'ed a 2006 thread in 2015 with a off-topic post saying he was doing PC2-6400 (DDR2-800) CL3 @ 1.7V (undervolted) AND with 2x2GB sticks.


Ya'll killin me. "My PC Chips mobo with VIA chipset, running 8Gb (4x2gb) CL0.5 350MHZ, 1.1V... BOO YAH!"


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> He probably realised he wasn't going to fool us...


This.
BS'ers don't like to be called out for proof, especially when it's impossible.
You'll never see him again.


----------



## Kryton

I checked to see and all of his posts were within this thread and nowhere else in the forum since he signed on here.
Could be this whack-job has been hopping from site to site with this crap over time and could actually be someone getting off on trolling or something - I dunno.

Have to agree, once his ticket had been punched a few times here he decided it was time to take the circus elsewhere since no clowns were signing on to it..... At least here.

Now - I do hope Camel grabbed that board/CPU combo listed earlier, that was a sweet deal on a some primo-hardware! If you didn't, I hope someone was able to at least secure it for you so you can get it when you're ready.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> I checked to see and all of his posts were within this thread and nowhere else in the forum since he signed on here.
> Could be this whack-job has been hopping from site to site with this crap over time and could actually be someone getting off on trolling or something - I dunno.
> 
> Have to agree, once his ticket had been punched a few times here he decided it was time to take the circus elsewhere since no clowns were signing on to it..... At least here.


I've seen more posts from him on Amiga forums, but only like 5-6 threads, and most of them were off-topic always saying a) he had those magic DDR2-800 CL3 RAM modules (actually he mentions they are _SO-DIMM_ tho) or b) saying he's running the fastest 1GB DDR1 modules. But those accounts were created years ago so he might just be one of those users that just watch the forums and doesn't post.


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> I just saw he necro'ed a 2006 thread in 2015 with a off-topic post saying he was doing PC2-6400 (DDR2-800) CL3 @ 1.7V (undervolted) AND with 2x2GB sticks.


I managed 50 % more frequency than that at CL3.

Albeit with just under double the voltage. And DICE on the RAM. And suicide stable only.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> I managed 50 % more frequency than that at CL3.
> 
> Albeit with just under double the voltage. And DICE on the RAM. And suicide stable only.


Best part is, those are supposed to be laptop RAM Modules (SO-DIMM). Extreme overclocking RAM on a laptop, sure xD.

More on-topic, i just rebuilt my 939 again, changed the 7300LE for a GTX260 reference and ye X2 3800+ for my FX-60. Also, swapped heatsink from my ghetto-modded Arctic Freezer 64 to a Freezer 64 Pro, well, at least it has 1 extra heatpipe


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> My 8GB set of Qimonda has been claimed. Hope they work on your board Toughacton!


Hey guys, Plugged the Qimonda 4x2GBs into the trusty Asus A8R32-MVP deluxe and low and behold we boot up







Looks like there are at least 2 boards now that work with over 4GBs of RAM. Now i just have to dial my OC back in and get a 64bit OS that can actually use that extra RAM







Thanks to Swisha for sending me the modules!


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Hey guys, Plugged the Qimonda 4x2GBs into the trusty Asus A8R32-MVP deluxe and low and behold we boot up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like there are at least 2 boards now that work with over 4GBs of RAM. Now i just have to dial my OC back in and get a 64bit OS that can actually use that extra RAM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to Swisha for sending me the modules!


w00t! Awesome man, glad they work for your board.


----------



## toughacton

Yep, It's going to take me a while to get this overclock dialed back in. But here is a pick of the proof


----------



## rhkcommander959

Amazing, I wonder what ASUS did right that the other manufacturers didnt....?

That board is very similar to the dfi cfx3200. Maybe not close enough for a bios swap though


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> Amazing, I wonder what ASUS did right that the other manufacturers didnt....?
> 
> That board is very similar to the dfi cfx3200. Maybe not close enough for a bios swap though


Not close at all.
DFI is Award bios. Asus is AMI.


----------



## Oj010

For a 24/7 board, the CFX3200-DR is still my favourite.


----------



## rhkcommander959

Darn, Wishful thinking.

If it was just a lack of trace wiring to the mem I would get pinouts sheets and solder some ribbon cables mad-scientist style. I think my asus came today, I will check when I'm home


----------



## delshay

I have been away for a while, lots of problems & fixes. Here is a list of changes here.

CPU LAPPING.

FX-60 has been lapped. Lapping was done by buying a cheap 939 motherboard for next to nothing. Cut around the socket from faulty/useless motherboard & place FX-60 in the socket.

Now there is no risk in breaking any CPU pins, you can even drop it on the floor without breaking a single pin.

Lap CPU on flat glass table using sandpaper grit 400 up-to 2500 grit to get a Copper Mirror Finish.

There is a change here, CPU seems to overclock better, & It seems it can now almost hit 3.1GHz on air but still lock-up, but I think the problem is the VRM.

VRM

With the lapped CPU it seems its the VRM that needs cooling, but not sure at this stage, but you should see a drop in CPU temperature.

OTHER CHANGES:

MOTHERBOARD SPEAKER

This does not seem important, but it is, if you "overclock".

Here, if there is an error in memory the buzzer will go off. The computer may still continue to work & may not crash. It is not often you will here this buzzer if at all, but if an error occurs it will let you know.

Because the speaker is important here, the four pin header has been removed from the motherboard & replaced with a speaker soldered direct to the motherboard.

UPGRADED 5.25 DISPLAY

I have upgraded my display from NMedia PRO to Matrix Obital GTT, as I need more information displayed about my system. Its up & running in the 5.25 bay but needs to be config.

https://www.matrixorbital.com/product_info.php?cPath=31&products_id=1588

INFARED REMOTE CONTROL

This has been added in the floppy bay. Its not config yet.

I am told windows can read/learn "any remote control" (its already built-in into windows). You can even turn the computer on from sleep & do almost anything.

Not sure if any of this is true, but the infared active LED is responding to my TV remote control, but this also needs to be config.


----------



## pez

Uh oh...


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> I have been away for a while, lots of problems & fixes. Here is a list of changes here.
> 
> CPU LAPPING.
> 
> FX-60 has been lapped. Lapping was done by buying a cheap 939 motherboard for next to nothing. Cut around the socket from faulty/useless motherboard & place FX-60 in the socket.
> 
> Now there is no risk in breaking any CPU pins, you can even drop it on the floor without breaking a single pin.
> 
> Lap CPU on flat glass table using sandpaper grit 400 up-to 2500 grit to get a Copper Mirror Finish.
> 
> There is a change here, CPU seems to overclock better, & It seems it can now almost hit 3.1GHz on air but still lock-up, but I think the problem is the VRM.
> 
> VRM
> 
> With the lapped CPU it seems its the VRM that needs cooling, but not sure at this stage, but you should see a drop in CPU temperature.
> 
> OTHER CHANGES:
> 
> MOTHERBOARD SPEAKER
> 
> This does not seem important, but it is, if you "overclock".
> 
> Here, if there is an error in memory the buzzer will go off. The computer may still continue to work & may not crash. It is not often you will here this buzzer if at all, but if an error occurs it will let you know.
> 
> Because the speaker is important here, the four pin header has been removed from the motherboard & replaced with a speaker soldered direct to the motherboard.


Do you have any validation on that FX-60 @ 3.1Ghz? I would like to see what VCore are you running to compare it to my [email protected]


----------



## delshay

[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Do you have any validation on that FX-60 @ 3.1Ghz? I would like to see what VCore are you running to compare it to my [email protected]


No

the computer locks-up after about say 2-3mins. It does not hit 3.1GHz its just under and its not stable @1.425v. But this is the first time I have ever seen it get near to 3.1GHz. But I have a feeling VRM needs heatsinks on them.

I lapped the CPU so you can see reflections. Its not a perfect mirror finish and I should have done a better job.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*


No

the computer locks-up after about say 2-3mins. It does not hit 3.1GHz its just under and its not stable @1.425v. But this is the first time I have ever seen it get near to 3.1GHz. But I have a feeling VRM needs heatsinks on them.

I lapped the CPU so you can see reflections. Its not a perfect mirror finish and I should have done a better job.[/quote]

Well, if you're still on that ASRock m-ATX board then you probably won't be able to overclock much... VRMs will get toasty with that FX-60.
Mine needed 1.52V set on BIOS and 1.568V reading from CPU-Z to be stable enough to boot to WinXP and make a validation. Probably could have got it with a bit lower VCore but it was more of a test than a real overclock to bench.


----------



## SwishaMane

I've owned two FX-60s in my time, and neither could do 3ghz stable, even at 1.5+vCore. Also in my premature OC'ing days, but still. They couldn't do crap for me


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> No
> 
> the computer locks-up after about say 2-3mins. It does not hit 3.1GHz its just under and its not stable @1.425v. But this is the first time I have ever seen it get near to 3.1GHz. But I have a feeling VRM needs heatsinks on them.
> 
> I lapped the CPU so you can see reflections. Its not a perfect mirror finish and I should have done a better job.


Well, if you're still on that ASRock m-ATX board then you probably won't be able to overclock much... VRMs will get toasty with that FX-60.
Mine needed 1.52V set on BIOS and 1.568V reading from CPU-Z to be stable enough to boot to WinXP and make a validation. Probably could have got it with a bit lower VCore but it was more of a test than a real overclock to bench.[/quote]

The Asrock was chosen for a special reason, this is why I did not go for the more established motherboards.

I joined this site in-order to see if it is possible to do 1-1-1-x timings on DDR.

I cannot find what I did, where I got a big jump in performance, but I now know what is needed.

I need a 939 motherboard "bios" (anyone will do) with the bios edited. "just the bios" nothing else and I will do the rest.

MEMORY SPD TIMINGS

does anyone know what is the lowest TRFC can be set to. You can find this information in the memory bios timing & checking how low it can go.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Well, if you're still on that ASRock m-ATX board then you probably won't be able to overclock much... VRMs will get toasty with that FX-60.
> Mine needed 1.52V set on BIOS and 1.568V reading from CPU-Z to be stable enough to boot to WinXP and make a validation. Probably could have got it with a bit lower VCore but it was more of a test than a real overclock to bench.
> 
> 
> 
> The Asrock was chosen for a special reason, this is why I did not go for the more established motherboards.
> 
> I joined this site in-order to see if it is possible to do 1-1-1-x timings on DDR.
> 
> I cannot find what I did, where I got a big jump in performance, but I now know what is needed.
> 
> I need a 939 motherboard "bios" (anyone will do) with the bios edited. "just the bios" nothing else and I will do the rest.
> 
> MEMORY SPD TIMINGS
> 
> does anyone know what is the lowest TRFC can be set to. You can find this information in the memory bios timing & checking how low it can go.
Click to expand...

Big jump in performance? Probably setting Command Rate to 1T instead of 2T, that gives a nice boost in Socket 939.
Also what was the "special reason" to choose that Asrock motherboard? It's just a basic board, the only "special" thing it has is that it was the last one to be sold, since ASRock launched it years after Socket 939 "died" (and the fact that it has integrated eSATA, HDMI and a HD 4200 IGP).
Well, actually it has a AMD 785G + SB710 chipset, but i don't think that would make such a big difference...


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> I've owned two FX-60s in my time, and neither could do 3ghz stable, even at 1.5+vCore. Also in my premature OC'ing days, but still. They couldn't do crap for me


Mine wasn't stable too, even at 1.568V. But was stable enough to get the CPU-Z Validation.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> I've owned two FX-60s in my time, and neither could do 3ghz stable, even at 1.5+vCore. Also in my premature OC'ing days, but still. They couldn't do crap for me


I have three other FX-60 and their can't do 2.9GHz. A good tell, tell sign if you got a good CPU is it will overclock fairly high, but with a lower than normal voltage, but this is also not guaranteed to do 3GHz.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Big jump in performance? Probably setting Command Rate to 1T instead of 2T, that gives a nice boost in Socket 939.
> Also what was the "special reason" to choose that Asrock motherboard? It's just a basic board, the only "special" thing it has is that it was the last one to be sold, since ASRock launched it years after Socket 939 "died" (and the fact that it has integrated eSATA, HDMI and a HD 4200 IGP).
> Well, actually it has a AMD 785G + SB710 chipset, but i don't think that would make such a big difference...


It has nothing to do with the command rate, always set at 2T.

Sandra SI detected the memory at 1 clock cycle, but its not doing it now. It would lock-up after test was completed, but thing have improved here from the last test. I can also detect errors better now too.

The motherboard was chosen because, its not to big, (smaller), HDMI which you already pointed out, but also its the only 939 motherboard that has "sideband memory". This is rare for a 939 motherboard to have this.

Software detect sideband memory as DDR3, but this is more likely DDR2.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> It has nothing to do with the command rate, always set at 2T.
> 
> Sandra SI detected the memory at 1 clock cycle, but its not doing it now. It would lock-up after test was completed, but thing have improved here from the last test. I can also detect errors better now too.
> 
> The motherboard was chosen because, its not to big, (smaller), HDMI which you already pointed out, but also its the only 939 motherboard that has "sideband memory". This is rare for a 939 motherboard to have this.
> 
> Software detect sideband memory as DDR3, but this is more likely DDR2.


I'm pretty sure sideband memory was meant to be used as VRAM for the HD 4200 IGP. So that shouldn't affect performance (except obviusly higher IGP performance), not sure what type of memory did they use on that sideband memory, but it really shouldn't affect overclocking anyways.
In socket 939 you should try running 1T. It really boosts performance, but IIRC, it's impossible to run 1T when using all 4 slots. In order to run 1T you need to use only 2 memory modules (or 1).


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> I'm pretty sure sideband memory was meant to be used as VRAM for the HD 4200 IGP. So that shouldn't affect performance (except obviusly higher IGP performance), not sure what type of memory did they use on that sideband memory, but it really shouldn't affect overclocking anyways.
> In socket 939 you should try running 1T. It really boosts performance, but IIRC, it's impossible to run 1T when using all 4 slots. In order to run 1T you need to use only 2 memory modules (or 1).


Except with our 8GB and 16GB configs. 1T with 4 dimms is incredibly stable, BUT, probably the biggest bottleneck when trying to OC the RAM. Stock 200Mhz, rock solid, anything over 205, and it tapers off QUICKLY.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> I'm pretty sure sideband memory was meant to be used as VRAM for the HD 4200 IGP. So that shouldn't affect performance (except obviusly higher IGP performance), not sure what type of memory did they use on that sideband memory, but it really shouldn't affect overclocking anyways.
> In socket 939 you should try running 1T. It really boosts performance, but IIRC, it's impossible to run 1T when using all 4 slots. In order to run 1T you need to use only 2 memory modules (or 1).


The loss of 1T,is not a real problem, as i can overclock to a level where i can claw back the losses. I post here that i can play latest DOOM on my system but i deleted that posting.

Doom plays smooth here with just 4GB of ram. The FPS display is very erratic, but does not effect game play, very smooth, no stuttering. (1080p all Ultra settings)

Doom Vulkan does not work here, i think there is still a few bugs in Doom. Vulkan SDK demo works ok.

4GB 2-2-2-5 @225 MHz with Enhanced Bandwidth. Could probably be the most aggressive timings ever, built into an DDR SPD, but this is not its top end speed.


----------



## delshay

Can someone check what TRFC lowest settings are in the BIOS please?


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Except with our 8GB and 16GB configs. 1T with 4 dimms is incredibly stable, BUT, probably the biggest bottleneck when trying to OC the RAM. Stock 200Mhz, rock solid, anything over 205, and it tapers off QUICKLY.


8GB can be overclocked. someone has already got this to 234MHz, but I think it can go faster.

Remember this is @4K.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> 8GB can be overclocked. someone has already got this to 234MHz, but I think it can go faster.
> 
> Remember this is @4K.


Sure man, anyone can get lucky on a decent running combo. In my experience, I cannot get stable past 210, BUT, Im at 1T. I think my timings are pretty loose too, 3-3-3-8. I don't worry much about the OC'ing properties of my machine, except the CPU, which is at 3ghz dead on. So I'm ok, just a HTPC.

I am still considering ways to use my 16Gb RAM to its full potential. This machine is going to find itself supporting a friend and I in audio / video projects here soon...


----------



## delshay

Sure man, anyone can get lucky on a decent running combo. In my experience, I cannot get stable past 210, BUT, Im at 1T. I think my timings are pretty loose too, 3-3-3-8. I don't worry much about the OC'ing properties of my machine, except the CPU, which is at 3ghz dead on. So I'm ok, just a HTPC.

I am still considering ways to use my 16Gb RAM to its full potential. This machine is going to find itself supporting a friend and I in audio / video projects here soon...







[/quote]

He is also at 1T 8GB 234MHz.

16GB of ram should not be that hard, you just play a little trick with the SPD & motherboard BIOS. SPD is easy for me, but I can't do BIOS, but I am a quick learner.

Windows system shows 6.1 for CPU & RAM 1T, but hold-on, I am at 225MHz 2T and I am also showing 6.1 for CPU & RAM, but yet I am not at full speed..

Better video still @4K 




Here you can see he has 6.1 for CPU & Memory performance see link below.

NOTE: He's memory timings has improved.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> He is also at 1T 8GB 234MHz.
> 
> 16GB of ram should not be that hard, you just play a little trick with the SPD & motherboard BIOS. SPD is easy for me, but I can't do BIOS, but I am a quick learner.
> 
> Windows system shows 6.1 for CPU & RAM 1T, but hold-on, I am at 225MHz 2T and I am also showing 6.1 for CPU & RAM, but yet I am not at full speed..
> 
> Better video still @4K
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see he has 6.1 for CPU & Memory performance see link below.
> 
> NOTE: He's memory timings has improved.


I've taken notes of these settings, and will see what i can do with my machine. Will probably keep CPU clock down, but def shooting for 230Mhz DRAM at CL2.5. Guess I'll see what happens, won't spend too much time.


----------



## delshay

Enhanced Bandwidth built into SPD

Extraordinary Ultra Tight Sub Timings

Not allowed to exceed 1.7v

**Don't make me unleash Hell** it's not a pretty site. ....This is not it's top end speed

********


----------



## delshay

it's just ticking over waiting... ..Note the voltage on the CPU, it's not allowed to exceed 1.4v


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> 
> 
> **Don't make me unleash Hell** it's not a pretty site. ....This is not it's top end speed
> 
> ********


Do it.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> 
> 
> Enhanced Bandwidth built into SPD
> 
> Extraordinary Ultra Tight Sub Timings
> 
> Not allowed to exceed 1.7v
> 
> **Don't make me unleash Hell** it's not a pretty site. ....This is not it's top end speed
> 
> ********


Lool, this cat is killin me. Unleash hell... on my 11 year old machine...









Seriously tho, do it. Pics or it didn't happen.


----------



## rhkcommander959

Got the new mobo in, trying to get the damned thing to boot. Sold to me as tested and working. They shipped it with two standoffs still attached to the motherboard, one by the bios chip, the other near the firewire ports in the corner.

No luck so far. green power light comes on at the bottom when I try to turn it on. Swapped batteries like Mr. Scott recommended to me on another motherboard. Trying to find a speaker to see if i get any beeps but I have one of my crucial tracers in; memory isnt even initialized. The bottom LEDs barely light up at all. This is in slot B1 as the manual recommends.

tried clearing cmos, as per the manual.

tried a different psu, cpu, memory. All the same.

Every time I try to boot it powers on for a split second then turns off. I have to try again - usually the next time it will power on but not post, sometimes it will power off again and take more tries.


----------



## SwishaMane

Blow out every slot, connector, crevice, corner you can. Might just be some gunk getting in the way of one connection...

Or give that baby a bath with battery removed obviously, and caps discharged. I've thrown mobos in the dishwasher before, and they still work. Then again, I've lost mobos just from turning them off one day, and turning on the next... lol


----------



## rhkcommander959

Thanks, I'll give it a shot. Tried another PSU just in case, no luck.

I just seem to have that kind of luck









Dusted it top and bottom, every slot, every port. Damn thing looks almost as good as it did from the factory.

Same thing, but now its usually 2-3x instant off before it stays powered on. I don't think the keyboard even lights up, and it definitely wont light up numlock or any other lights when the motherboard is "on"

The lithium batteries are cheap, are these boards that picky?

CPU doesn't even get warm, so my guess is BIOS isn't initializing? I will try to find my puller and clean all the contacts on it.

Doing all of this without a case. Mobo is what I refer to as double Taco'd - looking down on the motherboard it is concave from the chipset lifting up at the four corners, so looking at each side of the motherboard you can see a curve. Would mounting it in a tray to straighten it be any help at this point? My guess is no but all input is appreciated.

Don't want to pull the motherboard cooling, might have to start a claim.


----------



## rhkcommander959

Reading up on similar issues, some suggest reflowing the northbridge. I've done xboxes with much success... Bleh
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/306777-30-asus-a8n32-deluxe-green-light-beeps

Motherboard is Rev 1.01

No blown caps that I could find.

For power both the 24-pin and the 4-pin are connected.

Found buzzer, no beeps. Tried taking out the memory, still no beeps no post


----------



## SwishaMane

Warped board? That thing is abused... Could try the reflow for giggles, cause it might be busted and going back to owner anyway... couldn't hurt. SUCKS man.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> Found buzzer, no beeps. Tried taking out the memory, still no beeps no post


Remove the CPU and power up the board. If you still get no beeps the board is junk. I'm betting it is anyway, but this will confirm it.


----------



## rhkcommander959

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Remove the CPU and power up the board. If you still get no beeps the board is junk. I'm betting it is anyway, but this will confirm it.


Looks like my speaker is blown, i will look for another. It is (trying) to make a beep with CPU out, more like a click. Verified speaker function with dfi mobo. Every time I try a power cycle it makes a "click" (flip psu switch, try power, click, flip psu switch and repeat). This is just with the mobo and PSU, nothing else. Same with cpu in, just a click.

Is pic related the normal chipset mounting for these motherboards? it looks like caps were hot-glued on to stop people from pulling the push pins, otherwise I might try re-pasting the chipset heatsink. The top heat sink doesnt have them...

Also, that backplate was stuck to the board, is it stock? the retention base was not included so I tossed one on from my DFI, but I'm wondering if that one could be shorting something out.... Took it off, no change.


----------



## Kryton

The mounting plate screws look to be protruding too far through the plate, sticking out in fact and would probrably make contact with the case on the backside of the board. This in itself won't cause a short but would definitely cause the board to warp/bow outward in this area if it's set in place with all it's mounting screws set in tight.

The plate itself looks like a stock Asus unit and it should have a protective layer/coating on the area towards the board.

I've never seen any push-pins glued on before from the factory that I can recall, I'm gonna have to call this one as being worked on before from what I'm seeing and with the described behaviour I'm also gonna call it a dead board because that sounds like some kind of protection kicking in everytime you try to power it on.

That's what it seems to be from what I can tell.


----------



## rhkcommander959

Those screws are from the DFI retention plate which uses the plastic backplate that is thicker.

Good to know on the back plate though, I took it off just in case, it had adhesive-lined black material over the metal. Didn't help any.

The pushpin "hooks" are protected by those white plastic domes. Couldnt find any pictures of the backside of these motherboards to confirm if thats oem or not. Not on google images, nor any reviews or newegg..

Going to contact the seller now


----------



## Kryton

Good luck - And if you want, I may be able to set you up with a working board if need be.
I've got a few spares so it's no big deal.

PM me if interested.


----------



## rhkcommander959

Thanks for the offer, I give up on this motherboard - "he's dead Jim"


----------



## delshay

I found the answer. Min for TRFC is 9 clock cycles.. This is a correction as I have been running 7 clock cycles.. SPD is now more or less completed.

Now waiting for someone to send me modified BIOS with 1-1-1-3 timings, so DDR can move to the final stage.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> Now waiting for someone to send me modified BIOS with 1-1-1-3 timings, so DDR can move to the final stage.


Hold your breath..............
I told you before, it cannot be done.
There has never been a romsip package made for CL1 for any board ever. It is not a bios mod. It is a whole new romsip package that has to be constructed. Even if you can find an engineer to make you one, it cannot be tested because there is no confirmed CL1 DDR memory. Why are you not understanding this?


----------



## Kryton

Just sayin:









No coincidence he showed up again after a few certain posts were made.... And I was expecting it to an extent when they were made.

The guy is trolling as I had thought all along, what he's posting is total, unprovable BS so he should be ignored. I guess the posts I'm referring to was like throwing out "Troll Feed" or something to get his attention and to start up again with it.
He also has an established history of trolling with this same impossible issue, that at least has already been proven as fact. The already proven fact he has been "Chasing" this idea for years now and still continues with his impossible quest actually makes a case for the possibility he's a nut-job in my mind.

Guys, there is no point in asking for proof because it's asking for the impossible - Can't be done and it will never happen, he knows it and just jerking your chain if you do.

Just let it go.....


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Hold your breath..............
> I told you before, it cannot be done.
> There has never been a romsip package made for CL1 for any board ever. It is not a bios mod. It is a whole new romsip package that has to be constructed. Even if you can find an engineer to make you one, it cannot be tested because there is no confirmed CL1 DDR memory. Why are you not understanding this?


When something does not exist, something has to done to change that. This is what I do, I don't like seeing the same thing.

CL1 DDR maybe possible, but we will never know, as I need some kind of hardware access to test.

OK.. lets test CL1.5 my memory modules has this built-in from the start, so I am expecting them to pass.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> Just sayin:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No coincidence he showed up again after a few certain posts were made.... And I was expecting it to an extent when they were made.
> 
> The guy is trolling as I had thought all along, what he's posting is total, unprovable BS so he should be ignored. I guess the posts I'm referring to was like throwing out "Troll Feed" or something to get his attention and to start up again with it.
> He also has an established history of trolling with this same impossible issue, that at least has already been proven as fact. The already proven fact he has been "Chasing" this idea for years now and still continues with his impossible quest actually makes a case for the possibility he's a nut-job in my mind.
> 
> Guys, there is no point in asking for proof because it's asking for the impossible - Can't be done and it will never happen, he knows it and just jerking your chain if you do.
> 
> Just let it go.....


This was my fault. I made fun, and boom "its back..."


----------



## Mr.Scott

Partially mine also. I answered. This time the answer was quite clear. It won't happen again.


----------



## delshay

OK. I need access to a 939 motherboard that does CL1.5.

Does anyone know of any 939 motherboard that can do this? or is this impossible too.


----------



## Mr.Scott

DFI.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> DFI.


Would that be the Lanparty

Need to get this right first time , no errors.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Lanparty Ultra D, SLI-D, SLI-DR, Expert, or Venus. All have NF4 chipset.
There are other DFI's that are not NF4. Don't make a mistake and get one of those.
DFI is also ram picky. I hope your's actually works in one.


----------



## seaFs

A8N32-SLI supports CL1.5


----------



## Oj010

I have done extensive testing way back when and I'm confident faster than 2-2-2-5 is simply not possible. There were absolutely no gains all the way down to 2-0-0-0.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Lanparty Ultra D, SLI-D, SLI-DR, Expert, or Venus. All have NF4 chipset.
> There are other DFI's that are not NF4. Don't make a mistake and get one of those.
> DFI is also ram picky. I hope your's actually works in one.


Why do you say that? I'very had 12 S939 DFI boards and for a 24/7 board the one CFX3200-DR I have is hands down less of a royal pain in the backside. It's also not terrible, using the same CPU, voltages, etc I did 425 MHz HT on an NF4 and 411 MHZ on the CFX3200-DR. That's fairly close.


----------



## delshay

@All

Thanks, I will getting one of those motherboard for testing only. I will not keep this motherboard.

Remember we are talking 1GB module(s) and I don't think there has been a CL1.5 1GB Memory module.

With correction in the SPD, memory modules are getting quicker. Ie improved/fine tuning memory timings.

NOTE:: some SPD timings if set to low, it does not register.

When I get a chance, I will start upload some more photos & probably some benchmark times.

One other thing, I bricked my R9 Nano a week ago, but I have already replaced it with another.

Be careful when using Metal Paste, this is what done it. It leaked from the CPU onto the back of the Nano PCB, but it was floating around inside the case, and I did not see it, until it was too late..


----------



## delshay

Windows Scores 225Mhz Bus Speed, but best is yet to come.

SSD was also showing 7.9, but something has gone wrong here. ..look into it at a later time.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> I have done extensive testing way back when and I'm confident faster than 2-2-2-5 is simply not possible. There were absolutely no gains all the way down to 2-0-0-0.
> Why do you say that? I'very had 12 S939 DFI boards and for a 24/7 board the one CFX3200-DR I have is hands down less of a royal pain in the backside. It's also not terrible, using the same CPU, voltages, etc I did 425 MHz HT on an NF4 and 411 MHZ on the CFX3200-DR. That's fairly close.


it must register properly. when I did a test some time ago, only Sanda detected this when everything else failed.

There was the biggest jump in performance I have ever seen, but every time the test was completed, computer lock-up. Not even CPU-Z was detecting the faster timings.. ..But I cant get this to work again, but I will try again, as it may have been TRCD & TRP @1 clock cycle, which also releases TRAS..

All changes are done on SPD here, where BIOS is left in auto.


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> it must register properly. when I did a test some time ago, only Sanda detected this when everything else failed.
> 
> There was the biggest jump in performance I have ever seen, but every time the test was completed, computer lock-up. Not even CPU-Z was detecting the faster timings.. ..But I cant get this to work again, but I will try again, as it may have been TRCD & TRP @1 clock cycle, which also releases TRAS..
> 
> All changes are done on SPD here, where BIOS is left in auto.


Been there, done that, dropped each primary timing 1 cycle at a time until I ended up at 2-0-0-0. No instability, no difference in performance. This was a DFI NF4, if it can't get extra performance from these settings, no board can.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> Been there, done that, dropped each primary timing 1 cycle at a time until I ended up at 2-0-0-0. No instability, no difference in performance. This was a DFI NF4, if it can't get extra performance from these settings, no board can.


Why is TRC @8, this should be much, much lower, should be 2 or 3 cycles at worse.

Why is command rate at 2T.
Why is dram idle timer so high
TRFC should be 9T (lowest)
some parameters you can't leave it blank, you will get worse performance.

There a massive performance gain when you overclock with lower timings, it starts to shows its muscle at around 215Mhz here


----------



## delshay

You need to get Memory Module at the sharp end of this old Latency chart (with-in the top 4).


----------



## cssorkinman

I realize this is a bit off topic ( not socket 939) , but as most here are vintage AMD enthusiasts I thought it might be as good a place to ask as any.

My MSI K 7 delta ISLR is on it's last legs, I've put new caps and revived it - but now it's having some other issues. What would be the "best" overclocking motherboard to look for as a replacement ?

I appreciate any and all suggestions - thank you


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> I realize this is a bit off topic ( not socket 939) , but as most here are vintage AMD enthusiasts I thought it might be as good a place to ask as any.
> 
> My MSI K 7 delta ISLR is on it's last legs, I've put new caps and revived it - but now it's having some other issues. What would be the "best" overclocking motherboard to look for as a replacement ?
> 
> I appreciate any and all suggestions - thank you


AN7, NF7, DFI Ultra B
Not necessarily in that order.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> I realize this is a bit off topic ( not socket 939) , but as most here are vintage AMD enthusiasts I thought it might be as good a place to ask as any.
> 
> My MSI K 7 delta ISLR is on it's last legs, I've put new caps and revived it - but now it's having some other issues. What would be the "best" overclocking motherboard to look for as a replacement ?
> 
> I appreciate any and all suggestions - thank you
> 
> 
> 
> AN7, NF7, DFI Ultra B
> Not necessarily in that order.
Click to expand...

I was hoping you'd chime in, thanks Scotty









EDIT : Hard to resist the sexy this one brings though

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Soyo-KT333-Dragon-Ultra-Socket-462-AMD-Motherboard-/371580981474?hash=item5683f3d0e2:gvcAAOSw2ENW8GQA


----------



## Mr.Scott

It's a fairly rare board because of the white PCB. Highly collectable. The price reflects it. As a clocking board?, not so much.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> It's a fairly rare board because of the white PCB. Highly collectable. The price reflects it. As a clocking board?, not so much.


A wall hanger then


----------



## Mr.Scott

Pretty much.


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> Why is TRC @8, this should be much, much lower, should be 2 or 3 cycles at worse.
> 
> Why is command rate at 2T.
> Why is dram idle timer so high
> TRFC should be 9T (lowest)
> some parameters you can't leave it blank, you will get worse performance.
> 
> There a massive performance gain when you overclock with lower timings, it starts to shows its muscle at around 215Mhz here


tRC is not being tested, tRCD, tRP and tRAS are.
CR is not being tested, tRCD, tRP and tRAS are.
tRFC is not being tested, tRCD, tRP and tRAS are.

None of the timings you mentioned come into play when testing the effects of, eg, tRAS 5 to tRAS 4.

No timings are left "blank," you can't leave timings "blank."
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> 
> 
> You need to get Memory Module at the sharp end of this old Latency chart (with-in the top 4).


40ns is nothing to write home about. The settings I used to bench put me somewhere around 33ns or faster - at best I think I was at 29.x ns..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> It's a fairly rare board because of the white PCB. Highly collectable. The price reflects it. As a clocking board?, not so much.


Mr.Scott, two things:

1. Is the delshay guy the troll that claims to have highly overclockable SO-DIMMs that can do things my best cherry picked BH-5 can't? I haven't kept up with the thread, but there's no way this guy is for real.

2. I recall Sapphire had a nicer looking white board which was basically a clone of the DFI CFX3200-DR.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> tRC is not being tested, tRCD, tRP and tRAS are.
> CR is not being tested, tRCD, tRP and tRAS are.
> tRFC is not being tested, tRCD, tRP and tRAS are.
> 
> None of the timings you mentioned come into play when testing the effects of, eg, tRAS 5 to tRAS 4.
> 
> No timings are left "blank," you can't leave timings "blank."
> 40ns is nothing to write home about. The settings I used to bench put me somewhere around 33ns or faster - at best I think I was at 29.x ns..
> Mr.Scott, two things:
> 
> 1. Is the delshay guy the troll that claims to have highly overclockable SO-DIMMs that can do things my best cherry picked BH-5 can't? I haven't kept up with the thread, but there's no way this guy is for real.
> 
> 2. I recall Sapphire had a nicer looking white board which was basically a clone of the DFI CFX3200-DR.


1) I know that. Most here do too.









2) Yes they did. Also highly collectible.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Pretty much.


Appreciate the info.

My brother has some mobile athlons he might sell to me - might be fun to play with if I can source a proper board.

Just trying to give you some competition in the Team cup - nice 3DMark 99 score - I don't think I have a gpu that will touch that.

Good luck with the rest of the competition, you guys are doing great.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Thank you Corky. Always a pleasure talking to you.


----------



## delshay

If i am a troll, then perfect.. nothing more to say, leave it at that or ban/block me.

Their not SO-DIMM, their standard 184 pin DIMM. I do have Low Latency 100 pin DIMM DDR.

BH-5? don't own any. That chart was just a example.

High capacity 1gb memory module is what I own & it will out-class some lower capacity memory modules. For a 1Gb memory module to be up there with some of the best is impressive. ..and no it can't do 29ns

939 is my main computer, so I use it for everything, so it has to cope and perform with most modern applications including games.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> A8N32-SLI supports CL1.5


Sorry I missed this post.

Technically yes, it does, but if you disassemble the bios you'll find that it just uses the CL2 package labeled as CL1.5. There will be no impact on performance between the two. The DFI bios has two distinct separate packages.
I could never get the Asus board to boot with anything set on CL1.5.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> 
> 
> Enhanced Bandwidth built into SPD
> 
> Extraordinary Ultra Tight Sub Timings
> 
> Not allowed to exceed 1.7v
> 
> **Don't make me unleash Hell** it's not a pretty site. ....This is not it's top end speed
> 
> ********


Reminder. WORLD FASTEST "ULTRA LOW LATENCY" "1GB" DDR(S)


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> 1) I know that. Most here do too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) Yes they did. Also highly collectible.


For point 1 I was asking







I figured as much. I welcome him to "unleash hell" at "CL1" against my BH-5s at 290 MHz 2-2-2-5.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> I welcome him to "unleash hell" at "CL1" against my BH-5s at 290 MHz 2-2-2-5.


I tried that back a few pages. He only wants to compare 1 gig sticks. I also threw up a set of 1 gig sticks at CL1.5. That was also unacceptable as he then wanted 4 1 gig sticks.
There is no satisfaction and also no proof posted ever, so I gave up.
Don't feed the troll.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> For point 1 I was asking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I figured as much. I welcome him to "unleash hell" at "CL1" against my BH-5s at 290 MHz 2-2-2-5.


There's nothing on Planet Earth that can challenge BH-5. its just too fast.

But here i can play the latest DOOM (4GB) & I am trying to get Vulkan working, but I don't need Vulkan.. it's more than fast enough. very smooth.

BH-5 with its low capacity is not much use here.


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> I tried that back a few pages. He only wants to compare 1 gig sticks. I also threw up a set of 1 gig sticks at CL1.5. That was also unacceptable as he then wanted 4 1 gig sticks.
> There is no satisfaction and also no proof posted ever, so I gave up.
> Don't feed the troll.


I was just thinking the same thing. I've posted screen shots, validation links, etc whenever making a claim but I'm yet to see ANY proof for anything he says.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> I tried that back a few pages. He only wants to compare 1 gig sticks. I also threw up a set of 1 gig sticks at CL1.5. That was also unacceptable as he then wanted 4 1 gig sticks.
> There is no satisfaction and also no proof posted ever, so I gave up.
> Don't feed the troll.


Your 1GB stick(s) are in trouble even with your 2-3-2-5.. was it 236MHz I can't remember, but I will make it clear again.

I am still at 2-2-2-5 but the other timing with-in the SPD makes it even more impressive. Even at 225MHz my module may still be faster, because what's in the SPD.

SCOTT: Their are not normal 2-2-2-5 DDR.


----------



## Mr.Scott

It was actually 236 @ 1.5-3-2-5 1T but whatever.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> It was actually 236 @ 1.5-3-2-5 1T but whatever.


OK. Leave it at that before thing get out of hand.


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> Your 1GB stick(s) are in trouble even with your 2-3-2-5.. was it 236MHz I can't remember, but I will make it clear again.
> 
> I am still at 2-2-2-5 but the other timing with-in the SPD makes it even more impressive. Even at 225MHz my module may still be faster, because what's in the SPD.
> 
> SCOTT: Their are not normal 2-2-2-5 DDR.


You know SPD doesn't do anything magic, right? It doesn't set anything you can't set manually (and probably better).


----------



## SwishaMane

I have a re-capped K7N2GM2 w/ NF2 sitting here. Has 1GB of Corsair XMS and who knows what CPU installed.

I dont need it.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> You know SPD doesn't do anything magic, right? It doesn't set anything you can't set manually (and probably better).


That depends if all the option are there. Not all motherboards gives you everything. Where the other option are missing, SPD settings will sometimes override it.

My modules you just set voltage & bus speed, nothing else. It will boot automatically with the fastest timings (including sub) which I do not have access to via the BIOS.


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> That depends if all the option are there. Not all motherboards gives you everything. Where the other option are missing, SPD settings will sometimes override it.
> 
> My modules you just set voltage & bus speed, nothing else. It will boot automatically with the fastest timings (including sub) which I do not have access to via the BIOS.


Sorry, with the outrageous claims you're making I thought you'd at least have a decent board to back them up.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> Sorry, with the outrageous claims you're making I thought you'd at least have a decent board to back them up.


Correction: I don't have access to all of the memory timings on my motherboard.

Even if you have access to all of the timings, it's the capability of that memory module if it can handal tight timings. With everything in the SPD it take's the hassle of complex set-up. (plug-in & Play)

Most byte with-in the SPD is set to it's lowest point which the BIOS can handel & set-out by JEDEC.

This is why I said, some parts of the SPD you can't leave it blank, but also if you put in a timing too low, the BIOS may read it incorrectly. This is what is happening here, & shows poorer performance.

Where you have to set this manually, does not guarantee it will work, as each memory module will overclock differently, where's my module is guarantee to work as their are already pre-tested with some of tightest timings ever to hit DDR.

What you have is standard timings with-in your SPD, where mine is non-standard but with-in JEDEC rules.

Where mine is non-standard, is because there is a group of bytes set differently.

The photo I uploaded those timing are automatic (default)


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> Correction: I don't have access to all of the memory timings on my motherboard.
> 
> Even if you have access to all of the timings, it's the capability of that memory module if it can handal tight timings. With everything in the SPD it take's the hassle of complex set-up. (plug-in & Play)
> 
> Most byte with-in the SPD is set to it's lowest point set-out by JEDEC.


I've just read the last 40 pages.

I've got one of a kind, never before seen, new-standard-setting, 1 GB modules that run 300 MHz (DDR600) at 1.5-2-2-5 with four modules in dual channel while undervolted to 2.3v


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> I've just read the last 40 pages.
> 
> I've got one of a kind, never before seen, new-standard-setting, 1 GB modules that run 300 MHz (DDR600) at 1.5-2-2-5 with four modules in dual channel while undervolted to 2.3v


last post updated.

Do you have photo of 4GB 1.5-2-2-5 DDR 300MHz? Dreaming right?


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> last post updated.
> 
> Do you have photo of 4GB 1.5-2-2-5 DDR 300MHz?


I'm still testing so I won't put up. I also won't shut up until then.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> I'm still testing so I won't put up. I also won't shut up until then.


perfect. ..if you won't shut-up, can you give more information.


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> perfect. ..if you won't shut-up, can you give more information.


I can: My last two posts sum up the ridiculousness of your posts over the last 40-odd pages.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> I can: My last two posts sum up the ridiculousness of your posts over the last 40-odd pages.


How is my posting ridiculous.

I have posted three photos. Now show me some proof of what you have.

Let me make it clear, I don't give-in to what user(s) want. If work is still going on, it will remain that way, until project is finished.

Because you said you won't shut-up, then can you talk and give information on your ultra fast 1GB DIMM please.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> I've just read the last 40 pages.
> 
> I've got one of a kind, never before seen, new-standard-setting, 1 GB modules that run 300 MHz (DDR600) at 1.5-2-2-5 with four modules in dual channel while undervolted to 2.3v


Photo I posted is already something never seen before 4GB working at that frequency/timings.

That is a first ever. it also sets a world record 225MHz "@2.6v", but needs 2.7v at top end speed.

Are you going to share information on your DIMM.


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> How is my posting ridiculous.
> 
> I have posted three photos. Now show me some proof of what you have.
> 
> Let me make it clear, I don't give-in to what user(s) want. If work is still going on, it will remain that way, until project is finished.
> 
> Because you said you won't shut-up, then can you talk and give information on your ultra fast 1GB DIMM please.


1. Your "record." Your claim is based on the results of one review. It took me a minute of Googling to find someone doing 235 MHz 2-2-2-5 with 1 GB modules http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?74983-WOW!-My-2x1GB-Ballistix-Results-(P4P800SE-P-M-740)-56k-warning

2. You can see errors that nothing else can. What do you use, x-ray vision?

3. Your belief that a garbage ASRock board can do CL1-1-1-3 - come on, really? Not even the best boards can do that with the best RAM and the best CPU with the best IMC.

4. Your belief that running 4 DIMM modules won't affect your maximum overclock. Plenty of us have had plenty of experience overclocking S939 and we all know that the added strain on the IMC severely limits your overclock.

5. I'm not sure why I'm even entertaining this.


----------



## seaFs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> There's nothing on Planet Earth that can challenge BH-5. its just too fast.
> 
> But here i can play the latest DOOM (4GB) & I am trying to get Vulkan working, but I don't need Vulkan.. it's more than fast enough. very smooth.
> 
> BH-5 with its low capacity is not much use here.


Then beat my 8GB DDR500 CL3 *1T* in terms of productivity








Or, if you like, 4GB DDR530 CL3 *1T*.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> 5. I'm not sure why I'm even entertaining this.


Best statement yet.
Walk away Jon.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> 1. Your "record." Your claim is based on the results of one review. It took me a minute of Googling to find someone doing 235 MHz 2-2-2-5 with 1 GB modules http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?74983-WOW!-My-2x1GB-Ballistix-Results-(P4P800SE-P-M-740)-56k-warning
> 
> 2. You can see errors that nothing else can. What do you use, x-ray vision?
> 
> 3. Your belief that a garbage ASRock board can do CL1-1-1-3 - come on, really? Not even the best boards can do that with the best RAM and the best CPU with the best IMC.
> 
> 4. Your belief that running 4 DIMM modules won't affect your maximum overclock. Plenty of us have had plenty of experience overclocking S939 and we all know that the added strain on the IMC severely limits your overclock.
> 
> 5. I'm not sure why I'm even entertaining this.


1. I can't see photo of that link of memory running at that speed, can you please post it here.

2. There is something special I used to detect errors, better than most user(s)

3. I never said it can do it CL1-1-1-3, I wanted to test CL1-1-1-3 to see if it was possible, this is all about the DIMM not the motherboard. It just made the task easier if it could be done on my motherboard.

4. I am not going to maximum speed the motherboard can do, I going maximum what the DIMM can do with 2-2-2-5 & it has reached its targeted speed. The loading on the IMC I can't see this, but I can see errors "Live" as the errors occurs across all DIMM. Windows ignore some of these errors even tho their are present.

5. calling my equipment garbage is not very nice, it meets my needs .. To be reported.


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Best statement yet.
> Walk away Jon.


I WOULD like to know what he's smoking, though. Not so I can try some, but so I know what to avoid








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> 1. I can't see photo of that link of memory running at that speed, can you please post it here.
> 
> 2. There is something special I used to detect errors, better than most user(s)
> 
> 3. I never said it can do it CL1-1-1-3, I wanted to test CL1-1-1-3 to see if it was possible.
> 
> 4. I am not going to maximum speed the motherboard can do, I going maximum what the DIMM can do with 2-2-2-5 & it has reached its targeted speed. The loading on the IMC I can't see this, but I can see errors "Live" as the errors occurs across all DIMM. Windows ignore some of these errors


1. Pictures from back then are all dead, just because a pic is no longer around doesn't mean that you now take the record..

2. Again, x-ray vision?

3. So you want to try something that has never been done on a cheap and garbage motherboard?

4. Yup yup, I'm sticking with option 5 from my previous post. I'm done with you, I'm not 16 years old and ready to take on every troll I see anymore. Those days are long gone, I have better things to do now.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Best statement yet.
> Walk away Jon.


Too late reported him


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> Too late reported him


Did I hurt your feelings?


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Too late reported him


Wasting your time. He did nothing wrong.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Then beat my 8GB DDR500 CL3 *1T* in terms of productivity
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or, if you like, 4GB DDR530 CL3 *1T*.


Impressive 4 & 8GB 1T. What does windows performance show. I am showing 6.1 for CPU/RAM


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Wasting your time. He did nothing wrong.


so,user(s) are allowed to disrespect other user equipment for all to see..

imagine if most user(s) started calling other user(s) equipment garbage, how do you think the thread will end?. You don't need to answer that question because you already know the answer.

remember new user that's thinking of joining this site might be put off by what their read.

Their probably be thinking what up with the hostility.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Trolling is not allowed either, so people that live in glass houses shouldn't be throwing stones.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Trolling is not allowed either, so people that live in glass houses shouldn't be throwing stones.


OK then. show me "just one" where I am trolling so I can clear this up (if needed). Somethings I have said I may not have gone or explained it very well, because there is still a lot of work to do.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Trolling
> The art of deliberately, cleverly, and secretly pissing people off, usually via the internet, using dialogue. Trolling does not mean just making rude remarks: Shouting swear words at someone doesn't count as trolling; it's just flaming, and isn't funny. Spam isn't trolling either; it pisses people off, but it's lame.
> 
> The most essential part of trolling is convincing your victim that either a) truly believe in what you are saying, no matter how outrageous, or b) give your victim malicious instructions, under the guise of help.
> Trolling requires decieving; any trolling that doesn't involve decieving someone isn't trolling at all; it's just stupid. As such, your victim must not know that you are trolling; if he does, you are an unsuccesful troll.
> 
> Signs that your trolling is succesful:
> *Your victim screaming in all-caps at you.
> *Personal attacks (Calling you a ******, idiot, etc).
> *Being an Internet Tough Guy.
> *Making a crude remark, before quickly logging off before you can retort.
> 
> Signs that your trolling is unsuccesful:
> *Your victim identifying you as a troll.
> *Identifying yourself as a troll.
> *Your efforts being ignored.
> *Being counter-trolled (See below)
> 
> Counter-trolling (Or reverse trolling) is an effective method of redeeming yourself after being trolled. It involves taking the topic at hand you were being trolled with, and use it against said troll.


You can figure out where you fit.


----------



## cssorkinman

Blatant attempt to get back OT here , lol

So I have a delidded 4000+ sitting here and am looking for a guide on how to run it naked, can anyone offer any links?


----------



## gasparspeed

Man. These are probably the best posts i hace ever read on OCN. So many laughs...
Now on a more seriously discuss...
Wasting everyone's time (including admin's time) in such a absurd topic (extreme High clocks with High density modules with tight timings and extreme low voltage) that has been already proven that it's impossible on this platform (and even more impossible on your low end setup) is just plain absurd.
The way i see it there are probably 2 options:
A) Show what you've got. What modules are you using. That "special" ability to detect errors and all that stuff. And then we may belive you.
B) Keep "trying" in secret. And that will very probably mean you're not saying the truth so yeah. No one would belive you (we already don't AFAIK).

So. I will ask one more time. What modules are you running and how can you "x-ray Live detect errors that noone can detect"?


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Blatant attempt to get back OT here , lol
> 
> So I have a delidded 4000+ sitting here and am looking for a guide on how to run it naked, can anyone offer any links?


I'm not aware of any links in particular on that but I can tell you the basics.









First off (_Very_ important):
You have to make sure first that the cooler/block you want to run will sit on the core AND still be at least snug once fastened/ latched down - Not tight though because the naked core is fragile and could crack if too much mounting pressure is used, Thinking nice-n-snug but no more for mounting pressure does it.

Make sure the cooler or block is actually sitting FLAT on the core's surface, it's really easy to have it sideloaded one way or the other causing more pressure on one side or the other creating a hot-spot where it's not making good contact - i.e. Make sure the pressure is distributed evenly _across_ the core. It's best to use a mounting system that uses threaded rods of some kind so this pressure can be balanced out during the mounting process as you go, keeping watch to make sure the pressure remains consistent across the core as described.

Take your time, you'll get the hang of it quickly.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Blatant attempt to get back OT here , lol
> 
> So I have a delidded 4000+ sitting here and am looking for a guide on how to run it naked, can anyone offer any links?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not aware of any links in particular on that but I can tell you the basics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off (_Very_ important):
> You have to make sure first that the cooler/block you want to run will sit on the core AND still be at least snug once fastened/ latched down - Not tight though because the naked core is fragile and could crack if too much mounting pressure is used, Thinking nice-n-snug but no more for mounting pressure does it.
> 
> Make sure the cooler or block is actually sitting FLAT on the core's surface, it's really easy to have it sideloaded one way or the other causing more pressure on one side or the other creating a hot-spot where it's not making good contact - i.e. Make sure the pressure is distributed evenly _across_ the core. It's best to use a mounting system that uses threaded rods of some kind so this pressure can be balanced out during the mounting process as you go, keeping watch to make sure the pressure remains consistent across the core as described.
> 
> Take your time, you'll get the hang of it quickly.
Click to expand...

I have a thermaltake water extreme 2.0 i was planning on using with it, I suppose I might have to shim the backplate to get it to make good contact.

Do you have to use non electrically conductive paste?

Thanks for the reply


----------



## Kryton

I would suggest using that kind since the CPU's circuitry is exposed when delidded and the TIM will squeeze out when the cooler/block is mounted, possibly getting onto these parts of it.

Also know tubing will tend to "Pull" on the block if using watercooling, this will cause it to sideload via tilting. I normally place my hand on the block when I set onto the CPU's core and feel how it's sitting. I will then hold it flat with one hand while using the other hand to snug the block down until I know it won't tilt from the hoses pulling on it. After that it's just a matter of snugging it down.
In fact I'd be sure it's flat and snugged before removing your hand from the cooler no matter what you're using for cooling.


----------



## SwishaMane

Delshay, just show us some pics of your gear and etc. This thread is for us to share and learn. Why do you think Ive moved onto 8 and now 16gb in my machine. Because others helped with part numbers, settings, etc. Others did it first, then passed on the info.

Just share and quit talking. Talking wont prove anything. I czn say my dual core is at 5ghz, and my ram is at 430mhz... doesnt prove crap. Please share and support and teach.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> Did I hurt your feelings?


Not sure where this comment comes in, under what has happened.


----------



## seaFs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> Impressive 4 & 8GB 1T. What does windows performance show. I am showing 6.1 for CPU/RAM


I need to set up the rig for 8GB again, currently running 16GB. I can show you some results tomorrow.
What CPU clock and HTT are you running?


----------



## Oj010

So while not *entirely* Socket 939, I'm wanting to try for the overall frequency records for Socket 939 and AM2, and maybe even the SuperPi and PiFast records (as well as wPrime on AM2).

I think I might just have the hardware for it.

Athlon FX-55 did 3,916.49 MHz on LN2 at only -40'c, it doesn't have a cold bug (I tested a full pot and it doesn't cold boot bug either) and 1.802v - I have a lot of cooling and voltage potential remaining and when I did the 3,916.49 MHz I had validations up to around 3,950 MHz which were corrupt. I think it's at least a 4 GHz chip, maybe better. It's a CABCE 0516WPMW, which is the same as all the 4 GHz FX-57s.

2x 256 MB BH-5 - 1x 256 MB Kingston HyperX PC3200 and 1x Mushkin Blackline Level 2 PC3500 - this (odd) set is paired as each stick individually can SuperPi 1M at 302 MHz and around 3.95v (I haven't yet tested the two together, I'd imagine 290 MHz or so). I have been through literally 50+ sticks of BH-5 looking for a decent pair.

Athlon X2 6000+ did 4,144 MHz on DICE at I-can't-remember-the-voltage, it has never been tested under LN2 so I've never had temperature control or been able to find the cold bug (I'm certain it will have one. It was once the fastest AM2 CPU in the world, but has been beaten since then. It's a CCB3F 0711VPMW.

2x 1 GB D9GMH - A Teem Xtreme kit rated at 400 MHz 4-4-4-12. Together they validated 600 MHz 3-3-3-9 at 3.375v and under DICE. I would imagine they can bench somewhere around 530-550 MHz.

On Socket 939 I know I am capable of an efficiency of sub 80,000 on air for SuperPi 1M - on LN2 I'd hoping for around 83,000 (it never scales perfectly







) at my validation speed of 3916 MHz which would put me at #1 for S939.

The 6000+ has run SuperPi 1M at over 4 GHz (the score sucked hard as I was untweaked and running single channel - I was literally just checked what the CPU could do.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> I need to set up the rig for 8GB again, currently running 16GB. I can show you some results tomorrow.
> What CPU clock and HTT are you running?




All test are conducted at max where possible


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> So while not *entirely* Socket 939, I'm wanting to try for the overall frequency records for Socket 939 and AM2, and maybe even the SuperPi and PiFast records (as well as wPrime on AM2).
> 
> I think I might just have the hardware for it.
> 
> Athlon FX-55 did 3,916.49 MHz on LN2 at only -40'c, it doesn't have a cold bug (I tested a full pot and it doesn't cold boot bug either) and 1.802v - I have a lot of cooling and voltage potential remaining and when I did the 3,916.49 MHz I had validations up to around 3,950 MHz which were corrupt. I think it's at least a 4 GHz chip, maybe better. It's a CABCE 0516WPMW, which is the same as all the 4 GHz FX-57s.
> 
> 2x 256 MB BH-5 - 1x 256 MB Kingston HyperX PC3200 and 1x Mushkin Blackline Level 2 PC3500 - this (odd) set is paired as each stick individually can SuperPi 1M at 302 MHz and around 3.95v (I haven't yet tested the two together, I'd imagine 290 MHz or so). I have been through literally 50+ sticks of BH-5 looking for a decent pair.
> 
> Athlon X2 6000+ did 4,144 MHz on DICE at I-can't-remember-the-voltage, it has never been tested under LN2 so I've never had temperature control or been able to find the cold bug (I'm certain it will have one. It was once the fastest AM2 CPU in the world, but has been beaten since then. It's a CCB3F 0711VPMW.
> 
> 2x 1 GB D9GMH - A Teem Xtreme kit rated at 400 MHz 4-4-4-12. Together they validated 600 MHz 3-3-3-9 at 3.375v and under DICE. I would imagine they can bench somewhere around 530-550 MHz.
> 
> On Socket 939 I know I am capable of an efficiency of sub 80,000 on air for SuperPi 1M - on LN2 I'd hoping for around 83,000 (it never scales perfectly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) at my validation speed of 3916 MHz which would put me at #1 for S939.
> 
> The 6000+ has run SuperPi 1M at over 4 GHz (the score sucked hard as I was untweaked and running single channel - I was literally just checked what the CPU could do.


Losing my stuff







.

So glad I never unsub'd from this thread.


----------



## Herm

Hi, still lively here I see !

Some news from my place: My PC became so erratic,with unanttended reboots, I had to only keep 2 RAM DIMMs out of 4 (thus, 16Gb -> 8 Gb) as the heat of summer is growing...

Thanks to ebay, I was able to find :
- 1 thermaltake A1165 : DIMM heatsink with an active cooling above,
- 2 thermaltake A1989 : copper heatsinks,
- 2 thermaltake A1092 : aluminium heatsink (in case of I couldn't use the A1165, but I only used one)

As the CPU heatsink fan is right above the 1st DIMM, I wasn't able to set the active cooling on the 1st or 4th DIMM. I set it on the 2nd one, and it covers the 3rd and 4rd ones... Power is coming from the PSU monitoring plug (on the top right edge of the motherboard) wich (fortunately) provide current...

The 3rd & 4th DIMM, farther to the big CPU fan, got the 2 copper heatsink, and the one right under the CPU fan got one of the aluminium heatsinks...

A low quality picture of the whole, taken late in the night. Light is from a yellow flashlight...



Between the two last DIMMs is the wire of my case temp sensor. I went from ... above 90°C full load (2 DIMMs only) to 60°C maximum (all DIMMs in place & full load). From the Samsung Datasheet, it should't go above 70°... I'm lucky nothing has burnt here !

To test the whole thing, ECC disabled in bios, and boot to memtest86+. After 2h30, 1st pass, no error. After ... 6h30 more hours (!) 2nd pass and still ... no 1 bit of error. Yay !

I've spent today in Guildwars2, all video setting at max. Wow, so nice, it's not the same game (and the framerate is not often at 25 fps, but whatever) ... and NO crash.

I was sure I had problems because of my PAE hacked WinXP : no, it was only memory overheat !

For whose going the ECC memory way, check the temperature !

I may try some overclock later... But sorry, I've some GW2 maps to (re-)discover ! Cu !

Herm


----------



## cssorkinman

Change in plans, I couldn't find an easy way to make the Thermaltake 240mm aio work for direct die on the 4000+ so I had to go with the corsair H-60 instead.

The board had aftermarket heat sinks that got in the way of mounting any other cooler I had , but it seems to have worked out fine.


----------



## Kryton

Good to see you got it working Corky, let us know how far you can go with it.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> Good to see you got it working Corky, let us know how far you can go with it.


First DFI, first de-lidded chip = learning curve.

Having a little hiccup with the OS drive ( intel X25 SSD) for some reason - going to go back to an HDD with XP PRO .

I have a set of patriot 2 x 256mb (PDC5124400ELK) That I've managed to take to 320 mhz on the MSI K8 neo 4 - hoping to squeeze a little more out of them on this board.

Also hoping to get some good 3dmark 06 scores with it using the EVGA 9800GT AKIMBO's in sli or a couple 9800 GTX+'s ( one is pretty flaky though).


----------



## TheN00bBuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> First DFI, first de-lidded chip = learning curve.
> 
> Having a little hiccup with the OS drive ( intel X25 SSD) for some reason - going to go back to an HDD with XP PRO .
> 
> I have a set of patriot 2 x 256mb (PDC5124400ELK) That I've managed to take to 320 mhz on the MSI K8 neo 4 - hoping to squeeze a little more out of them on this board.
> 
> Also hoping to get some good 3dmark 06 scores with it using the EVGA 9800GT AKIMBO's in sli or a couple 9800 GTX+'s ( one is pretty flaky though).


For sure always go IDE when using older rigs, in my experience. SATA on older boards can be flaky as far as configurations go to make it work.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheN00bBuilder*
> 
> For sure always go IDE when using older rigs, in my experience. SATA on older boards can be flaky as far as configurations go to make it work.


From about Socket 754 and back you are correct, some do fine while others flake out even if at first they did OK.
I'm not aware of any real problems with 939 setups but going back further than 754 you will experience these based on what board and whatnot the build is based on.

You can also buy SATA to IDE adapters, these will let you run a SATA drive with a board having only IDE ports but even these don't always work as I found out with mine.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Lanparty Ultra D, SLI-D, SLI-DR, Expert, or Venus. All have NF4 chipset.
> There are other DFI's that are not NF4. Don't make a mistake and get one of those.
> DFI is also ram picky. I hope your's actually works in one.


I have a LANPARTY NF4 SLI-DR on its way. Will post result/screenshot if motherboard works. ..It is listed as working.

I will not be keeping this motherboard, its just for testing CL1.5-2-2-5 "4GB" & I may turn the wick up from 225MHz if it passes.

I repeat, I may turn it up, but like I said, I don't give into what user(s) demand or want. That will never change.

Thanks for your help


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> Guys
> 
> My memory tell me error because I memtestx86 it, please don't steal I am still testing it. Top secret until work is done.
> 
> Lol
> 
> If I block him will I still have to read this junk?
> 
> I have one of those sapphire 939 boards, sadly mine is the black one. A whopping 4 phase power, pc-a9rd480adv. I remember the white ones looking neat.


If you are referring to me, I am more than happy to accept with immediate affect.

For those users that are interested, keep an eye on CPU-Z website by clicking on AMD icon in CPU-Z (FX-60 users only). It will not be there for a while, but it will appear, provided the website is not flooded with 3.1GHz+ CPU.

TOP SECRET

I love this part, I really do, because you are right in some parts. The only part that is incorrect is, it is not a secret. ..Testing is done completely different. But now it is locked & that information will never be released.. locked permanently.

What users should be thinking is,how did I get 4GB Unbuffered Memory working with those timing/frequency/voltage? This information is also permanently locked.

The only part I will now post/prove is the voltage of the DIMM, but I don't know any other software that can detect voltage of DIMM. ...& yes their can operate as low as 2.6v, but not at top end speed.

"smartguardian" can't find download.

ERRORS IN MEMORY MODULE(S)

I could explain a little more here, but this information is also locked. But ask yourself, if the errors were critical you would not be seeing screenshot, as I will be getting BSOD. ...also the motherboard speaker will sound an alarm if it detects "any error whatsoever".

I would not also be able to play DOOM which needs 8GB, but I have only 4GB & my LCD display shows upto 96% memory used when playing DOOM.

I will post a photo of my LCD display in the 5.25 bay which gives me LIVE information of CPU/MEMORY & other motherboard parameters.

Just for the record I maybe selling my old display (black panel), as I have upgraded.

http://www.nmediapc.com/prolcd.htm


----------



## seaFs

Well, it's no secret how you get the low memory timings. Probably the same "secret" how another guy did 273MHz with 4x1GB 2T. He tested his setup till he dropped. And it was a good IMC.

In case you didn't know: Memory timings like CL and so on are all related to the DIMMs, so if they can do the tight timings in single DIMM configs, they'll do this most likely in multi DIMM configs. On DFI boards you also get TRef.

But training the IMC is another part and keeping it all stable with the heavy load. That's where Command Rate kicks in, because this is not a memory timings, but a memory controller setting. It's the same with channel skew settings. Everything for stability, but Command Rate 2T destroys all the good memory performance. With 1T the whole system feels a bit smoother. Probably because of the much higher bandwidth the memory offers compared to 2T.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Well, it's no secret how you get the low memory timings. Probably the same "secret" how another guy did 273MHz with 4x1GB 2T. He tested his setup till he dropped. And it was a good IMC.
> 
> In case you didn't know: Memory timings like CL and so on are all related to the DIMMs, so if they can do the tight timings in single DIMM configs, they'll do this most likely in multi DIMM configs. On DFI boards you also get TRef.
> 
> But training the IMC is another part and keeping it all stable with the heavy load. That's where Command Rate kicks in, because this is not a memory timings, but a memory controller setting. It's the same with channel skew settings. Everything for stability, but Command Rate 2T destroys all the good memory performance. With 1T the whole system feels a bit smoother. Probably because of the much higher bandwidth the memory offers compared to 2T.


I have already explained the loss of 1T. I can overclock high enough to gain that back the loss of 1T which is around 4-6ns when doing a Latency Test. ...yes I did check this.

KEEPING IT STABLE AT HIGH SPEED

That's where I come in, I posted in this thread testing is done completely different. How on earth do you think I got those ultra tight timing stable at that speed with all four banks filled.

If the SPD was shown, some of you will think differently of me, but every time someone has a go, I will lock that information, and it will never be released.


----------



## seaFs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> How on earth do you think I got those ultra tight timing stable at that speed.


I repeat myself: The ultra tight timings and your "wastly tremendous high speed" is a mere 12% overclock. You can keep the memory timings as tight as the DIMMs allow it, this has almost nothing to do with the amount of DIMMs. 4 DIMM OC is more related to the quality of the CPUs integrated memory controller. Or, to say it in layman's terms: you got lucky with the CPU.


----------



## delshay

I have three other FX-60. their do not overclock to the same level as the screenshot already shown. Their also need more voltage 1.5v to get even near the same clock speed already shown, but works fine with same memory modules.

SPD information/data permanently locked never to be released. Anything identifying memory module(s) will be covered-up.


----------



## gasparspeed

Well. so you just """""locked""""" the only real interesting info... So it's pointless keeping this absurd "world record" going on.
You can "lock" all the other "info" (probably non-existant too).
Since you still don't show any proof (and as i can ser, you won't) and you're doing this kid "blackmail" stuff (" next time someone says X then i lock info).
Yeah that definitly is a troll. You hace never ever shown any proof of your words in other forums so for me you can lock everything since that "info" probably doesn't even exist.

But wait guys. I just got 4 1GB sticks of magic DDR RAM that do CL1.5-2-2-5 at 2.5V running at DDR-600. It's very special RAM noone has ever seen but I won't post a single CPU-Z validation or other info because logic.

/rant (or whatever this was)

Now, can we please go back on topic?


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> I have three other FX-60. their do not overclock to the same level as the screenshot already shown. Their also need more voltage 1.5v to get even near the same clock speed already shown, but works fine with same memory modules.
> 
> SPD information/data permanently locked never to be released. Anything identifying memory module(s) will be covered-up.


So um...then....goodbye?


----------



## seaFs

So anyways, does somebody own Micron -5b D chips? Then try pushing them 2-2-2-5 with 3V
http://www.legitreviews.com/crucial-ballistix-pc4000-2gb-memory-review_262/3


----------



## delshay

The world record was held by Corsair, and no it not good bye just yet, two or three photos to upload, one will be a CPU-Z ..

http://www.pcstats.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=1862&page=7


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> So anyways, does somebody own Micron -5b D chips? Then try pushing them 2-2-2-5 with 3V
> http://www.legitreviews.com/crucial-ballistix-pc4000-2gb-memory-review_262/3


Only 212MHz, see my other posting


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> The world record was held by Corsair, and no it not good bye just yet, two or three photos to upload, one will be a CPU-Z ..
> 
> http://www.pcstats.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=1862&page=7


No, it wasn't. That link was never a world record, it was just the highest speed that THAT SITE had achieved. Although the pictures no longer exist, I have already linked to a speed *higher than yours* with 1 GB modules at 2-2-2-5.

Guess what? There was no "special hidden ultra top secret" SPD for those RAM modules - they were as they came from the factory.


----------



## delshay

can't take what is said in forums, just like me. you wanted evidences and I provided it in photo. want it validated, not a problem, because I know what I have here is real.

But now identification markings will be remove with-in the SPD. Name it, I will put it in the SPD under a new name. This will not affect performance.

I tell you what, I do this right now, and show you in CPU-Z.

What should I put in there? anything you like just name it. ..I will put overclock.net in SPD & show how's that.


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> can't take what is said in forums, just like me. you wanted evidences and I provided it in photo. want it validated, not a problem, because I know what I have here is real.
> 
> But now identification markings will be remove with-in the SPD. Name it, I will put it in the SPD under a new name. This will not affect performance.
> 
> I tell you what, I do this right now, and show you in CPU-Z.
> 
> What should I put in there? anything you like just name it.


There's no need for you to validate it as others have already done better than you, so there's no reason for us not to believe that you can do 225 MHz 2-2-2-5. It just isn't as impressive as you make it out to be


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> There's no need for you to validate it as others have already done better than you, so there's no reason for us not to believe that you can do 225 MHz 2-2-2-5. It just isn't as impressive as you make it out to be


you got it all wrong, I can go faster. ask me to put any name in the SPD & I will upload a newer speed.

What would you like me to call this memory? you choose so that you know it is real..


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> you got it all wrong, I can go faster. ask me to put any name in the SPD & I will upload a newer speed.
> 
> What would you like me to call this memory? you choose so that you know it is real..


Your name. Minimum 241 MHz 2-2-2-5 bench stable, not just validated.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> Your name. Minimum 241 MHz 2-2-2-5 bench stable, not just validated.


posting deleted


----------



## seaFs

This is getting ridiculous.
Maybe I should post a screenie of my 2GB DDR400 registered non-ECC DIMM? Just to show that I can replace the SPD chip with an unprotected one and user Taiphoon Bruner?


----------



## delshay

sorry you are only getting 2MHz increase, I don't reward Bad Behavior

@All ...you have one remaining photo upload remaining.


----------



## Oj010

So you've proven nothing. I asked for a minimum 241 MHz bench stable, not 229 MHz suicide stable. There's a massive difference between the two.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> This is getting ridiculous.
> Maybe I should post a screenie of my 2GB DDR400 registered non-ECC DIMM? Just to show that I can replace the SPD chip with an unprotected one and user Taiphoon Bruner?


Prove you have the skill. You never know, because one thing is for sure, you may need me.

Let me test you. How do you work out the checksum & what Bit is it. I would know if it is correct with-in five mins. ...just by changing the name, changed the checksum.


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> Prove you have the skill. You never know, because one thing is for sure, you may need me.
> 
> Let me test you. How do you work out the checksum & what Bit is it. I would know if it is correct with-in five mins. ...just by changing the name, changed the checksum.


1. That's rich coming from you.
2. You are by far not the only person with the ability to use Taiphoon Burner. Have a look through the XtremeSystems archives, there were bunches of people using it to program custom SPD profiles. It's really nothing special.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> 1. That's rich coming from you.
> 2. You are by far not the only person with the ability to use Taiphoon Burner. Have a look through the XtremeSystems archives, there were bunches of people using it to program custom SPD profiles. It's really nothing special.


I was not testing your skill, but now that you have answered this test is also for you. Put your name into the SPD & post.

The Questions also applies to you. ..Test..


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> I was not testing your skill, but now that you have answered this test is also for you. Put your name into the SPD & post.
> 
> The Questions also applies to you. ..Test..


How about no. I'm not about to put together a computer purely to show you I know how to use Taiphoon Burner (which I haven't touched in close to ten years, along with SPDTool or whatever it was called).

Besides, I'm still waiting for 241 MHz 2-2-2-5 bench stable from you.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> I was not testing your skill, but now that you have answered this test is also for you. Put your name into the SPD & post.
> 
> The Questions also applies to you. ..Test..


Modifying the SPD still doesn't proofs nothing.
You could take a mediocre memory module, create a SPD profile @ 1.5-2-2-5 and it would still not run at those settings.
If the RAM chips can't run at those timings, even if you set them on the SPD it won't run.

Also, you're not the only one that can modify the SPDs, there's lots of people who can do it.
And still, 0 proof of CL1.5 or those "tests" you're doing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> That claim was actually mine, I was counter-trolling him. He even PMd me for more info


I know xD. I was actually summing up all of his posts in 4 lines.


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> And still, 0 proof of CL1.5 or those "tests" you're doing.


And there never will be.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> want it validated, not a problem, because I know what I have here is real.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> *could be true


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> I don't reward Bad Behavior
> 
> @All ...you have one remaining photo upload remaining.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> Prove you have the skill. You never know, because one thing is for sure, you may need me.










Is this real life?


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is this real life?


Sadly, it looks like it is 100% real.


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Sadly, it looks like it is 100% real.


I fully believe we are being trolled, but he doesn't have the skill to troll us properly.

On other forums he posts things like "do not attempt this yourself, my xyz is specially modified for this" whereas on a forum like this we see straight through it.

/shrug


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> I fully believe we are being trolled, but he doesn't have the skill to troll us properly.
> 
> On other forums he posts things like "do not attempt this yourself, my xyz is specially modified for this" whereas on a forum like this we see straight through it.
> 
> /shrug


Yeah, that's what it looks like.
Since the 1st post i knew this was going to happen.
If he really wanted to try going for CL1 (or whatever) he would have asked first if it was possible, and then he would had tried and asked for help showing what he's got. Not coming here saying "he's the best bcoz i has special x-ray abilities" and saying noone can do it except he/she.
This is clearly a troll. Many random posts on random forums always on low-post count accounts and without sigs, or profile pics or anything...


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Sadly, it looks like it is 100% real.


Yeah, I just literally laughed myself into the first acid reflux attack I've had in over a month lol.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> How about no. I'm not about to put together a computer purely to show you I know how to use Taiphoon Burner (which I haven't touched in close to ten years, along with SPDTool or whatever it was called).
> 
> Besides, I'm still waiting for 241 MHz 2-2-2-5 bench stable from you.


How about no, the last photo upload is now reserved.


----------



## gasparspeed

For 8th you would need to run higher clocks than my 3015Mhz FX-60 which actually shouldn't be that difficult. But still won't prove anything. I bet anyone with a FX-60 can get it stable enough at 3Ghz to make a validation. So yeah. Still nothing.

EDIT: Also my other valids on that top 15 are on An ASROCK crap mATX board. Nothing new here.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> For 8th you would need to run higher clocks than my 3015Mhz FX-60 which actually shouldn't be that difficult. But still won't prove anything. I bet anyone with a FX-60 can get it stable enough at 3Ghz to make a validation. So yeah. Still nothing.
> 
> EDIT: Also my other valids on that top 15 are on An ASROCK crap mATX board. Nothing new here.


Don't worry got that covered, but I do need to work on stability to ensure no one can beat it on air. very near to 3.1GHz.

remember I am not turning down the HT, its still at max speed, I have never turned it down, let me try it now & see how for I can get..


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> Don't worry got that covered, but I do need to work on stability to ensure no one can beat it on air. very near to 3.1GHz.
> 
> remember I am not turning down the HT, its still at max speed.


You should see HWBOT for air references. VALIDCANARDPC erases everyone from the top15 every 12 months or so. With that motherboard probably there'll be someone faster.
My FX-60 isn't a great clocker and still has headroom for more...


----------



## delshay

Be careful, I have the G SKILL TRIDENT 9600, CORSAIR 9136, & if that don't get you I have the CORSAIR 8888 revision 2, the most lethal DDR2 of them all, known to clock 1200MHz+ CL3-3-3-9. ...WARNING.


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> Be careful, I have the G SKILL TRIDENT 9600, CORSAIR 9136, & if that don't get you I have the CORSAIR 8888 revision 2, the most lethal DDR2 of them all, known to clock 1200MHz+ CL3-3-3-9. ...WARNING.


I can't stop laughing xD


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> I can't stop laughing xD


Correction: 3-3-2-9 no big deal from the last posting.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> I can't stop laughing xD


You be very careful. Corsair first 8888 was awesome, but I think not sure, Micron updated the chips, this is where I think revision 2 was born. So I am sure the 8888 will destroy any benchmark you already have, this is why it come with a warning. I don't think revision 2 is that common.

Do not attempt to challenge the corsair 8888, it will destroy you.

I also have the fastest DDR2 SO-DIMM 4-4-4-12


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> You be very careful. Corsair first 8888 was awesome, but I think not sure, Micron updated the chips, this is where I think revision 2 was born. So I am sure the 8888 will destroy any benchmark you already have, this is why it come with a warning. I don't think revision 2 is that common.
> 
> Do not attempt to challenge the corsair 8888, it will destroy you.
> 
> I also have the fastest DDR2 SO-DIMM 4-4-4-12


Stop talking and show some results.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=417271

600.4 MHz 3-3-3-9 dual channel

Your move.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> Stop talking and show some results.
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=417271
> 
> 600.4 MHz 3-3-3-9 dual channel
> 
> Your move.


I have seen your score before hand, that's why I listed my DDR2 DIMM. ..let me try & find a review of 8888, but its going to be old.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> Stop talking and show some results.
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=417271
> 
> 600.4 MHz 3-3-3-9 dual channel
> 
> Your move.


I don't own a DDR2 computer anymore.

check your bandwidth with this lot including Corsair 10000

http://www.anandtech.com/show/2162


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> I don't own a DDR2 computer anymore.
> 
> check your bandwidth with this lot including Corsair 10000
> 
> http://www.anandtech.com/show/2162


Those results don't impress anyone. 656 MHz 5-5-5-15? People benching SuperPi on Wolfdales under LN2 were often running around that frequency at CL4-4-4. Eg (not mine)


----------



## delshay

I will have test my revision 2 8888 to see if I can dethrone you, I think you have held onto those records far too long,


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> I will have test my revision 2 8888 to see if I can dethrone you, I think you have held onto those records far too long,


I'm waiting...


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> I'm waiting...


Warning! I can upgrade motherboards too newer or better chip. so the challenge may come sooner than you think. That card I upgrade on the other website is the fastest in the world, along with 28ns EDO. ..be careful what you wish for, I can do almost anything in hardware, you better be prepared.


----------



## rhkcommander959

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> So anyways, does somebody own Micron -5b D chips? Then try pushing them 2-2-2-5 with 3V
> http://www.legitreviews.com/crucial-ballistix-pc4000-2gb-memory-review_262/3


I'd kill for 4gb of tracers. I have 512s but IDK if they are -5b D chips or what. I did get past 600 waaay back in the day, loose timings though.


----------



## delshay

s is where I mis u
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Modifying the SPD still doesn't proofs nothing.
> You could take a mediocre memory module, create a SPD profile @ 1.5-2-2-5 and it would still not run at those settings.
> If the RAM chips can't run at those timings, even if you set them on the SPD it won't run.
> 
> Also, you're not the only one that can modify the SPDs, there's lots of people who can do it.
> And still, 0 proof of CL1.5 or those "tests" you're doing.
> I know xD. I was actually summing up all of his posts in 4 lines.


if you go back a few pages, you will find I have an Lanparty on its way to test CL1.5. This is where the last photo upload was reserved for, but now there will be a choice between seeing my computer, which has 2 strange components inside or you will get CL1.5 screenshot result.

There is only one uploaded photo remaining.

I forgot to say, I always run my set-up in synchronise mode.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> s is where I mis u
> if you go back a few pages, you will find I have an Lanparty on its way to test CL1.5. This is where the last photo upload was reserved for, but now there will be a choice between seeing my computer, which has 2 strange components inside or you will get CL1.5 screenshot result.
> 
> There is only one uploaded photo remaining.
> 
> I forgot to say, I always run my set-up in synchronise mode.


What part of OCN is limiting you to one photo? Or is this an ego centric thing? "I'm me, MAKE YOUR DECISION! You get ONE photo, ONE!!!!!111!!!1!1"

Give me a break, pathetic...


----------



## seaFs

I'd like to see a photo of the batch number of your FX-60


----------



## TheN00bBuilder

Can we calm down guys? Its a club, not a hate thread.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> I'd like to see a photo of the batch number of your FX-60


Done! you have just used-up the last remaining uploaded photo. I will not be uploading any more Photos. There will be no screenshot of inside of my computer & there will be no CL1.5 screenshot.

FX-60 SCREENSHOT

My current FX-60 has no marking. If you go back a few pages, I have "lapped" the CPU to a nice also perfect copper mirror finish. For me to take a Photo I need to take the whole computer apart. This is not a problem, as I am already preparing a few internal upgrades to get the CPU stable at almost 3.1Ghz. I have spotted a few things wrong, and this may help other users get to the magic 3GHz, "if I am right" and the modification works.

I don't know if the modification will work, but I am tracking this problem, and its all to do with 3GHz+ lock-ups.

I have 3 other FX-60 which are all the same as the one I am using which has been lapped, all have stepping code LCBIE.

FX-60 I am using acts differently, ie it does not like anything over 1.4v, but its almost hitting 3.1GHz with 1.4v (I think I know what is wrong)

other three FX-60 needs 1.5v and can't do 2.9GHz.


----------



## Blameless

I know this is a long shot, but is anyone aware of any S754 or 939 boards with both AGP and *ISA* slots? Something that can OC would be ideal, but I'd take an industrial board if that's the only option.

I'd really like to consolidate all of my retro gaming stuff into a single box that can run my Voodoo4, my Aureal Vortex SQ2500, and my SoundBlaster AWE64 Gold, simultaneously. That way I could boot back and forth between PC DOS 2000 and Windows 98SE and run all my pre-21st century games, full tilt, as they were meant to be played, without any incompatibilities or the downsides of emulation. Just dug out 2x512MiB TwinMOS Speed Premium with Winbond CH-5 UTT chips. Last time I tested these I was able to run 2-3-2-6-T1 at 250MHz with 3.1-3.2v, stable. Back in the day I recall being able to get 280+MHz out of them with 3.4v. Would be great to put them to good use again.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Modifying the SPD still doesn't proofs nothing.
> You could take a mediocre memory module, create a SPD profile @ 1.5-2-2-5 and it would still not run at those settings.


CAS 1.5 is a legitimate JEDEC DDR timing, but the platform must support such a setting.

I really have no idea if the Athlon64s had such support, but I do recall testing CAS 1.5 in some 754 and 939 setups, with inconclusive results. Some software detected CAS 1.5, but I never checked if the CPU register for it was actually set and benchmarks were close enough to margin of error to be ambiguous.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> I'm going to say that 4,320 hours of WCG or running a 3D render that takes upwards of 60 hours says more about stability that three or four hours of Prime95.


A half dozen hour Prime95 run is often a better indicator of whether something will handle a 60 hour render than 60 hours of rendering is (a few percent chance of failing that render would be unacceptably high to me, but with only a few percent chance of failing a 60 hour render, I could render for hundreds of hours before I'm likely to see a failure, even if I am virtually guaranteed to see a failure at some point). Stress testing with the apps you actually intend to run, while something that should certainly be done to make sure there aren't obvious problems that dedicated stress tests miss, can take prohibitively long to find potential problems when done alone. A more strenuous test will often result in a geometrically increased chance of error, allowing problems to be found and fixed much more quickly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> I'm also going to say again, does it matter if a rig is stable enough to run 24/7 but crashes instantly with Prime95? No, unless you built your rig with the main intention of running Prime95. Does it matter if you're stable in Prime95 but crash at the end of a large workload? Absolutely.


Any failure, in any test, that cannot be traced to a bug in the software itself, rules out complete stability. If it can fail Prime95, or any other test, it can potentially fail something else, something important...the instability is there. That's not to say every potential instability can always be found, but I certainly consider it foolish to ignore any instability I have found, if I care about the integrity of my data.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> Prime95 isn't good enough for me, I've had plenty of times where I'm stable overnight with it but crash a few hours into a 3DS Max render, and that's completely unacceptable for me. Even with my dual Xeons I can get an hour OCCT stability (I didn't run Prime95, I was asked to run it for someone) at a speed that doesn't complete CineBench without a CTD.


No single test should be considered good enough for anyone that cares anything about stability. I run as many as practical, starting with the ones most likely to fail in the shortest period of time (to most rapidly rule out unstable settings), and then when I find the fastest combination of settings that don't fail any test I can find, in worst case environmental conditions, I have my 24/7 OC.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blameless*
> 
> I really have no idea if the Athlon64s had such support, but I do recall testing CAS 1.5 in some 754 and 939 setups, with inconclusive results. Some software detected CAS 1.5, but I never checked if the CPU register for it was actually set and benchmarks were close enough to margin of error to be ambiguous.


Thank You

That what I said in a early posting, but I am no expert in this area. Someone check the CPU docs then posted "there is no CL1.5 in the CPU register". I don't have access to the CPU documentation, and someone contacted AMD, and AMD did not give an answer. This all started when the first CL1.5 DIMM was first released.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blameless*
> 
> I know this is a long shot, but is anyone aware of any S754 or 939 boards with both AGP and *ISA* slots? Something that can OC would be ideal, but I'd take an industrial board if that's the only option.
> 
> I'd really like to consolidate all of my retro gaming stuff into a single box that can run my Voodoo4, my Aureal Vortex SQ2500, and my SoundBlaster AWE64 Gold, simultaneously. That way I could boot back and forth between PC DOS 2000 and Windows 98SE and run all my pre-21st century games, full tilt, as they were meant to be played, without any incompatibilities or the downsides of emulation. Just dug out 2x512MiB TwinMOS Speed Premium with Winbond CH-5 UTT chips. Last time I tested these I was able to run 2-3-2-6-T1 at 250MHz with 3.1-3.2v, stable. Back in the day I recall being able to get 280+MHz out of them with 3.4v. Would be great to put them to good use again.


Could you get away with using something like this on a MSI K8N Neo Platinum 754 ? http://arstech.com/install/ecom-prodshow/usb2isar.html

Not sure they have one that works with the OS's you plan on using though

EDIT: just saw the price... wow lol


----------



## Blameless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Could you get away with using something like this on a MSI K8N Neo Platinum 754 ? http://arstech.com/install/ecom-prodshow/usb2isar.html
> 
> Not sure they have one that works with the OS's you plan on using though


I'm almost positive I'd need chipset level ISA support with with DMA to correctly run an ISA sound card in native DOS. I've had some other setups fail to work with later ISA bridges. Thanks for the suggestion though.

Something like that would probably let me use an ISA soundcard in an emulated environment...not sure if I want to spend 150 bucks on one though.


----------



## seaFs

It should be easier to buy a complete socket 462 or 370 system. This is cheaper and grants you a true ISA slot.
The other way would be a deep study of LPC (low pin count interface) and some insane soldering action on the SuperIO chip of a motherboard to de-multiplex the signal to ISA. Not worth the effort, I think, but I'd be interested in reading about your progress


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blameless*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Could you get away with using something like this on a MSI K8N Neo Platinum 754 ? http://arstech.com/install/ecom-prodshow/usb2isar.html
> 
> Not sure they have one that works with the OS's you plan on using though
> 
> 
> 
> I'm almost positive I'd need chipset level ISA support with with DMA to correctly run an ISA sound card in native DOS. I've had some other setups fail to work with later ISA bridges. Thanks for the suggestion though.
> 
> Something like that would probably let me use an ISA soundcard in an emulated environment...not sure if I want to spend 150 bucks on one though.
Click to expand...

Yeah that's a bit ridiculous price wise.
Going to have to get lucky to find one on those platforms I'd think. K7 era had a few boards that should work, willing to go back that far?
Will a voodoo 4 work on agp 4X 8X?


----------



## Oj010

Not really the right place but was 2-2-2-7 or 2-2-2-11 faster on NF2?


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> Not really the right place but was 2-2-2-7 or 2-2-2-11 faster on NF2?


2-2-2-11.


----------



## Blameless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Yeah that's a bit ridiculous price wise.
> Going to have to get lucky to find one on those platforms I'd think. K7 era had a few boards that should work, willing to go back that far?
> Will a voodoo 4 work on agp 4X 8X?


Yeah, there are some potential S462 and 478 options that would work well, if I can find them for the right price.

Voodoo4 will work in an AGP 4x slot, not certain about 8x.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> Not really the right place but was 2-2-2-7 or 2-2-2-11 faster on NF2?


tRAS 11 usually benched best on NForce 2, at least with two DIMMs.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blameless*
> 
> tRAS 11 usually benched best on NForce 2, at least with two DIMMs.


Depends. 2-2-2-5 always benches faster for me on NF2, and, commenting on your A64 CL1.5 statement., 1.5-2-2-5 always benches faster for me than 2-2-2-5 on that platform.


----------



## Blameless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> 1.5-2-2-5 always benches faster for me than 2-2-2-5 on that platform.


How much faster?


----------



## Mr.Scott

Enough where I would have to run the ram 20MHz or so faster at 2-2-2-5 to catch it.
Example: 200Mhz @ CL1.5 = 220MHz @ CL2
Testing based on SPI runs at the same CPU MHZ +/- 10


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Depends. 2-2-2-5 always benches faster for me on NF2, and, commenting on your A64 CL1.5 statement., 1.5-2-2-5 always benches faster for me than 2-2-2-5 on that platform.


Interesting results Mr.Scott. I don't remember if I was running tRAS 7 or 11, but I definitely recall 5 being slower for me.


----------



## delshay

Generic Question: What Burst Length are you using? Default is normally 4.


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> Generic Question: What Burst Length are you using? Default is normally 4.


Better question, when are you going to beat my 600 MHz 3-3-3-9 as claimed?


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> Better question, when are you going to beat my 600 MHz 3-3-3-9 as claimed?


I can only focus on one thing at a time. Let me deal with the CL1.5 & 3GHz+ problems (if any) first.


----------



## Herm

Hi Blameless,
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blameless*
> 
> I really have no idea if the Athlon64s had such support, but I do recall testing CAS 1.5 in some 754 and 939 setups, with inconclusive results. Some software detected CAS 1.5, but I never checked if the CPU register for it was actually set and benchmarks were close enough to margin of error to be ambiguous.


There's a pdf still available on the AMD web site, BIOS and Kernel Developer's Guide for the AMD Athlon™ 64 and AMD Opteron™ Processors 26094.pdf with detailed CPU initialisation that must be done by the BIOS. It has a lot to do with memory settings...

On the pdf page 103, there's the CAS latency initialisation 3-bit field explained :



Only 3 values are officialy allowed : CAS Latency of 2 clocks; 2,5 clocks and 3 clocks.

But there are other 'reserved' values... Perhaps CL=1 and CL=4 are available in the 1st part of the chart, maybe CL=1,5 to CL=4,5 available in the second part ? Who knows ?

Herm


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Herm*
> 
> Hi Blameless,
> There's a pdf still available on the AMD web site, BIOS and Kernel Developer's Guide for the AMD Athlon™ 64 and AMD Opteron™ Processors 26094.pdf with detailed CPU initialisation that must be done by the BIOS. It has a lot to do with memory settings...
> 
> On the pdf page 103, there's the CAS latency initialisation 3-bit field explained :
> 
> 
> 
> Only 3 values are officialy allowed : CAS Latency of 2 clocks; 2,5 clocks and 3 clocks.
> 
> But there are other 'reserved' values... Perhaps CL=1 and CL=4 are available in the 1st part of the chart, maybe CL=1,5 to CL=4,5 available in the second part ? Who knows ?
> 
> Herm


Thank you

it seems I was partly right, because I can't see why some manufacture(s) would put CL1.5 in the BIOS knowing that it does not work. So either the PDF is out of date or AMD pass on up-to date PDF to manufacture(s).

We can now enable those reserved, to see what the outcome is.

When my DFI motherboard gets here, I can see if is working as it should "CL1.5". There's no escape, it will flag-up.

I was also right about TRFC lowest settings being 9 clock cycles, but mine was set to 7 clock cycles now corrected.

what I am trying to say here, if you step outside "any" of those timings from the above PDF, there is a risk of read/write data corruption, unless you known those reserved do work. this is what I found out when TRFC was set too low, it seems it was out of bound.

And if you set-it out of bound, you could end up with worse performance, because it is not registering correctly, unless you know it works.

Benchmarking with out of bound timings, nice stats, but no good for everyday computing, again unless you know it is working correctly.

Thanks again for the PDF doc. Well Done!


----------



## Blameless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> I can't see why some manufacture(s) would put CL1.5 in the BIOS knowing that it does not work.


There are all sorts of settings in even modern firmware that flatly cannot work with the products they support.

I have about a half dozen timings in the newest BIOS revision on my X99 SOC Champion that can be set to values that no CPU made for the socket will recognize. Pretty much every enthusiast board I've ever had, for any platform, has been like this. It's really quite rare for firmware to be debugged to the extent that no extraneous options are present and the more options present, the more rare it is.


----------



## delshay

Above PDF Doc.

I just notice, not all bytes have reserved at the lower end. In my case where TRFC was set too low (out of bound) there was no Errors at first.
The problem only came about when I tried to adjust byte 10 & 44. This is where windows started to show errors.

You also have to think, were those reserve properly tested, ie was there fast enough DIMM around at that time to test.

If you find your not getting a performance boost using those reserve timing, I would move it back to what it was set before, if the lowest timing does not work.

If anyone try's any of those reserved, I would back-up my hard drive before I start.


----------



## Oj010

Mr.Scott, I was browsing the XS archive back from the mid 2000s and I saw s7e9h3n ay that CL 1.5 is slower than 2 on the Ultra-D. Maybe that's why we got such different results, it behaves differently on the two platforms.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blameless*
> 
> I really have no idea if the Athlon64s had such support, but I do recall testing CAS 1.5 in some 754 and 939 setups, with inconclusive results. Some software detected CAS 1.5, but I never checked if the CPU register for it was actually set and benchmarks were close enough to margin of error to be ambiguous.


Now question maybe ask if some of Benchmarks are genuine.
If it is not registering correctly at the register is it possible someone could cheat.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Could be. I'm on a self made bios also. Borrowed the romsip tables from an Expert board..


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Interesting results Mr.Scott. I don't remember if I was running tRAS 7 or 11, but I definitely recall 5 being slower for me.


I had some Mushkin Level II's that only liked 9. I hated those sticks.
11 is the goto setting. Everything runs decent on 11. I just happen to have a couple sets that like 5.


----------



## delshay

, it needs
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> I'd like to see a photo of the batch number of your FX-60


This is how my CPU was lapped, but I put my FX-60 in a socket, which I got from a non working motherboard, by cutting around the socket, as I did not want to risk breaking any pins.

FX-60 looks the same (mirror copper finish).

I got around 4-6c improvement wild guess, as I did not check it before lapping.

I know there has been a improvement as my PWM fan never spun down before, always at max speed and for the fan to spin down it needs to drop below 45c.

Fan now spins down to 39-41c idle, full load 59-61c. ..see link below how it was done.

One other thing know one seem to have picked up on. when you lapped the CPU, you are taking away some of the IHS copper surface, ..so your attached heatsink/water block is fractions closer to the CPU core.

Remenber! I use a socket to protect the FX-60 pins.


----------



## SwishaMane

You know what's funny... We'll never see his results to CL1.5 because APPARENTLY "we've" already used up all his "photo uploads"... derp derp










What a joke...

And yes, your 3Ghz barrier on FX-60 aligns perfectly to the two I had years ago when they were new. I couldn't get 3Ghz stable on either. Biggest waste of an unlocked CPU, one that OC's worse than locked chips.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> You know what's funny... We'll never see his results to CL1.5 because APPARENTLY "we've" already used up all his "photo uploads"... derp derp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What a joke...
> 
> And yes, your 3Ghz barrier on FX-60 aligns perfectly to the two I had years ago when they were new. I couldn't get 3Ghz stable on either. Biggest waste of an unlocked CPU, one that OC's worse than locked chips.


The thing is, I think I know what's wrong with the 3GHz+ problem on air, let see if this update hopefully fixes this 3GHz problem once and for all. ...touch wood that it works.

Most of you have been overclocking for a while, it should have been fixed long time ago. I know some FX-60 can't do 3GHz, but the ones that can should have been working at this frequency & beyond on air.

When the FX-60 first came out their were rumors user(s) were getting 3.2GHz on air. Don't know how true this is, but if I am almost hitting 3.1GHz with 1.4v, I am beginning to think their maybe some truth in that matter.


----------



## rhkcommander959

lapping is not new, you would get much better temps delidded. the only time i lap is on soldered ihs'

batch (and luck) is king, as long as you have a good OC mobo you can push a "lesser" cpu as far. Thus why i got 165s and x2 3800s


----------



## delshay

There is little point in delidding if you know the CPU can't do 2.9GHz+. If you have the very best CPU for overclocking, do you take the risk and delid.
I would be happy just to see the 3GHz on my TFT display (Matrix Orbital) & be happy at that.

Some user(s) just want to get to the top of the table in overclocking, I am not into that. I just want a 939 computer that can run modern application. ..Its my main computer.

I prefer low latency/overclock & low voltage, this is mostly what I work on.

Matrix Orbital TFT Display link below

https://www.matrixorbital.com/index.php?cPath=31


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> If you have the very best CPU for overclocking, do you take the risk and delid.


Pending what your goals are, yes, you do.
I have many times on exceptional CPU samples.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> There is little point in delidding if you know the CPU can't do 2.9GHz+. If you have the very best CPU for overclocking, do you take the risk and delid.
> I would be happy just to see the 3GHz on my TFT display (Matrix Orbital) & be happy at that.
> 
> Some user(s) just want to get to the top of the table in overclocking, I am not into that. I just want a 939 computer that can run modern application. ..Its my main computer.
> 
> I prefer low latency/overclock & low voltage, this is mostly what I work on.
> 
> Matrix Orbital TFT Display link below
> 
> https://www.matrixorbital.com/index.php?cPath=31


For modern daily use. A FX-60 @ stock can do well. And CL1.5 RAM ain't going to help. It would have been better for daily use to go for the 8/16GB route and maybe a bit of overclock than trying to get crazy High clocks on only 4GB of RAM. Speccialy if you're running Win7. IMHO


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> For modern daily use. A FX-60 @ stock can do well. And CL1.5 RAM ain't going to help. It would have been better for daily use to go for the 8/16GB route and maybe a bit of overclock than trying to get crazy High clocks on only 4GB of RAM. Speccialy if you're running Win7. IMHO


i just got the DFI motherboard. It look as if someone has taken it out of a skip. It needs a GFX card & I am not going to put my R9 Nano onto this board. no way
So for now CL1.5 is cancelled or delayed. I was hoping I could attach motherboard direct to monitor. I miss that part.

CL1.5 is just for testing to confirm memory module(s) can do CL1.5 as it is in the SPD. There is little point in CL1.5 profile being there if the module(s) can't do CL1.5.

I need a motherboard with on-board GFX & CL1.5.. I may try & send it back, it's that bad.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> i just got the DFI motherboard. It look as if someone has taken it out of a skip. It needs a GFX card & I am not going to put my R9 Nano onto this board. no way
> So for now CL1.5 is cancelled or delayed. I was hoping I could attach motherboard direct to monitor. I miss that part.
> 
> CL1.5 is just for testing to confirm memory module(s) can do CL1.5 as it is in the SPD. There is little point in CL1.5 profile being there if the module(s) can't do CL1.5.
> 
> I need a motherboard with on-board GFX & CL1.5.. I may try & send it back, it's that bad.


No high end (nForce4) motherboard for Socket 939 has integrated graphics AFAIK.
The only ones are the low end ones (like your ASRock 785 and my ASRock 939NF4G-SATAII). And those won't do CL1.5.
There's no worry about running a R9 Nano in a 939 board, the only modern GPU that could have some problems with them would be the RX480 with it's PCI-E problem, but AFAIK it has been fixed too.

IF you don't have any other dedicated GPU and still don't want to run the Nano, you can still get a cheapo 5$ GPU in eBay or basically everywhere. Any PCI-E working will do.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> No high end (nForce4) motherboard for Socket 939 has integrated graphics AFAIK.
> The only ones are the low end ones (like your ASRock 785 and my ASRock 939NF4G-SATAII). And those won't do CL1.5.
> There's no worry about running a R9 Nano in a 939 board, the only modern GPU that could have some problems with them would be the RX480 with it's PCI-E problem, but AFAIK it has been fixed too.
> 
> IF you don't have any other dedicated GPU and still don't want to run the Nano, you can still get a cheapo 5$ GPU in eBay or basically everywhere. Any PCI-E working will do.


The board is unsafe, it has cobweb's , lots of dust a broken USB port.. too much its going back, case to be opened.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> The board is unsafe, it has cobweb's , lots of dust a broken USB port.. too much its going back, case to be opened.


cobwebs shouldn't affect the board, just remove them, same with dust.
You should have seen how i got my NF4 Infinity. THAT was a dusty board. But just one hour cleaning it and it worked perfectly (keeping in mind i bought it for 3 euros from a random guy who had literally broke it off a computer that was on a trash bin)


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> cobwebs shouldn't affect the board, just remove them, same with dust.
> You should have seen how i got my NF4 Infinity. THAT was a dusty board. But just one hour cleaning it and it worked perfectly (keeping in mind i bought it for 3 euros from a random guy who had literally broke it off a computer that was on a trash bin)


Sorry, not going to chance high-end components on that board. I just replaced my R9 Nano, old one is bricked.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> Sorry, not going to chance high-end components on that board. I just replaced my R9 Nano, old one is bricked.


If anyways you won't run your Nano on any of your 939 rigs then you need another GPU (again, go and get a 5$ GPU that you can get everywhere)
You can also test the motherboard without GPU, it'll give you beep errors (or LED codes too depending on the board).
If it does run and gives you the errors (100% chance if it starts-up since you would be running it with no GPU) then it's almost 100% probably fine.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> If anyways you won't run your Nano on any of your 939 rigs then you need another GPU (again, go and get a 5$ GPU that you can get everywhere)
> You can also test the motherboard without GPU, it'll give you beep errors (or LED codes too depending on the board).
> If it does run and gives you the errors (100% chance if it starts-up since you would be running it with no GPU) then it's almost 100% probably fine.


Theres no point in arguing with the dude. Let him waste his time and money chasing a 'ghost in the machine'. If he don't want to spend 15 minutes cleaning a board, or testing without a GPU, just let him do it. He has nothing, proven he has nothing, so forget it... No CL1.5 results were incoming (text only doesn't mean crap since he refuses to upload photographic evidence).

The only reason I haven't blocked him myself is because everyone's responses to his posts would be out of place and not make sense.

Not trying to be rude or mean, but just bored of it. There's a reason this quote exists... "Pics or it didn't happen." WHY? Because people make broad extravagant claims, and if you can't visually prove it, WHAT IS THE POINT?

I've washed mobos in bath tubs and dishwashers to clean them, and they work fine after a reasonable dry time. That board might be the best anyones ever had, just got mistreated a little. Not the end of the world... But you know... WHATEV.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Theres no point in arguing with the dude. Let him waste his time and money chasing a 'ghost in the machine'. If he don't want to spend 15 minutes cleaning a board, or testing without a GPU, just let him do it. He has nothing, proven he has nothing, so forget it... No CL1.5 results were incoming (text only doesn't mean crap since he refuses to upload photographic evidence).
> 
> The only reason I haven't blocked him myself is because everyone's responses to his posts would be out of place and not make sense.
> 
> Not trying to be rude or mean, but just bored of it. There's a reason this quote exists... "Pics or it didn't happen." WHY? Because people make broad extravagant claims, and if you can't visually prove it, WHAT IS THE POINT?
> 
> I've washed mobos in bath tubs and dishwashers to clean them, and they work fine after a reasonable dry time. That board might be the best anyones ever had, just got mistreated a little. Not the end of the world... But you know... WHATEV.


Yeah. You're right. Actually. I believe he didn't even got the board. (y'know the good ol excuse of "it was broken so I returned it")


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Theres no point in arguing with the dude. Let him waste his time and money chasing a 'ghost in the machine'. If he don't want to spend 15 minutes cleaning a board, or testing without a GPU, just let him do it. He has nothing, proven he has nothing, so forget it... No CL1.5 results were incoming (text only doesn't mean crap since he refuses to upload photographic evidence).
> 
> The only reason I haven't blocked him myself is because everyone's responses to his posts would be out of place and not make sense.
> 
> Not trying to be rude or mean, but just bored of it. There's a reason this quote exists... "Pics or it didn't happen." WHY? Because people make broad extravagant claims, and if you can't visually prove it, WHAT IS THE POINT?


You have to see the board itself, it's looks to unsafe even to plug-in. And because he said it is working, this is not true. You can't test a board with the amount of dust in the sockets. If you test something most of the sockets would be clear, but there are not.

I only have two power supply for testing purpose only, I know their have safety short circuit built-in, but if I plug it in & it starts to smoke, I can't return it. Trust me its that bad. It looks like some-kind of wool around some parts of the board.

I could blow it out with compress air, but I think I will send it back as-is, because it is not what was described.

And I said before, I am more than happy if you block/disable me, as I don't like being call a troll or my motherboard call garbage.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> You have to see the board itself, it's looks to unsafe even to plug-in. And because he said it is working, this is not true. You can't test a board with the amount of dust in the sockets. If you test something most of the sockets would be clear, but there are not.
> 
> I only have two power supply for testing purpose only, I know their have safety short circuit built-in, but if I plug it in & it starts to smoke, I can't return it. Trust me its that bad. It looks like some-kind of wool around some parts of the board.
> 
> I could blow it out with compress air, but I think I will send it back as-is, because it is not what was described.
> 
> And I said before, I am more than happy if you block/disable me, as I don't like being call a troll or my motherboard call garbage.


You are more than happy if a respected & recognized member of this group blocks you?? Ask and you shall receive...

User Delshay has been blocked by me... I motion that all active users of the s939 Appreciation Club also block this user for your own sake. T'was entertaining at first, but has offered literally NOTHING to our club or its goals... Has succeeded in causing drama and issues, but has provided nothing of progress.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> You are more than happy if a respected & recognized member of this group blocks you?? Ask and you shall receive...
> 
> User Delshay has been blocked by me... I motion that all active users of the s939 Appreciation Club also block this user for your own sake. T'was entertaining at first, but has offered literally NOTHING to our club or its goals... Has succeeded in causing drama and issues, but has provided nothing of progress.


Fine accepted.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Yeah. You're right. Actually. I believe he didn't even got the board. (y'know the good ol excuse of "it was broken so I returned it")


Would you like me to upload a photo of the board? or would you like a Ebay transaction? I do not joke, its real.


----------



## SwishaMane

On topic: I think I have a slight RAM instability with my new 16GB kit. I was watching a movie the other night, and had a couple BSOD. I was at 2.5-3-3-8-1T @ 1.6v. Stepped up to 1.65v, still issues. Stepped up to 3-3-3-8 @ 1.6v, and I THINK its stable.

I popped the side panel off, touched the RAM, and its a little toasty. Doesn't seem bad, but a little more than it should be. Might add some active cooling...







Sucks, because I need my HTPC as quiet as possible.


----------



## pez

Yes. Screenshot your transaction and post a pic of the board. I mean if this doesn't violate your photo upload cap.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> Would you like me to upload a photo of the board? or would you like a Ebay transaction? I do not joke, its real.


You haven't proven almost anything you Said. You can upload whatever you want. But i second what Swisha Said. I won't block you, since i don't like blocking members (never done it on any forums with any members not even with really bad users) but i think it's pretty clear that (at least I) don't belive anything you say (without showing proof).

I can very easily proof all I say and all I have.
Remember: No proof never happened.

So basicaly. I won't block you. But i won't reply to you (at least until you post something really interesting).


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> On topic: I think I have a slight RAM instability with my new 16GB kit. I was watching a movie the other night, and had a couple BSOD. I was at 2.5-3-3-8-1T @ 1.6v. Stepped up to 1.65v, still issues. Stepped up to 3-3-3-8 @ 1.6v, and I THINK its stable.
> 
> I popped the side panel off, touched the RAM, and its a little toasty. Doesn't seem bad, but a little more than it should be. Might add some active cooling...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sucks, because I need my HTPC as quiet as possible.


Passive memory heatsinks? Or do those modules already have them/aren't compatible with them?
I have a Revoltec 5cm fan on top of my DDR2 and it really cools down a lot and it's almost whisper quiet while still giving a decent airflow. You can also control it with voltage (3-pin only







)


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Yes. Screenshot your transaction and post a pic of the board. I mean if this doesn't violate your photo upload cap.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> You haven't proven almost anything you Said. You can upload whatever you want. But i second what Swisha Said. I won't block you, since i don't like blocking members (never done it on any forums with any members not even with really bad users) but i think it's pretty clear that (at least I) don't belive anything you say (without showing proof).
> 
> I can very easily proof all I say and all I have.
> Remember: No proof never happened.
> 
> So basicaly. I won't block you. But i won't reply to you (at least until you post something really interesting).


guess what's just turned up. second delivery for today. Its the modification parts. I am going be away for a while at lease two days.. I hope this works. touch wood.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Passive memory heatsinks? Or do those modules already have them/aren't compatible with them?
> I have a Revoltec 5cm fan on top of my DDR2 and it really cools down a lot and it's almost whisper quiet while still giving a decent airflow. You can also control it with voltage (3-pin only
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


These are double stacked ICs, so normal heatsinks wouldn't work, and they are a hit or miss. I think adding a fan is only option. I probably have a AP15 laying around to slap in there. I really need one of those adjustable worm like fan mounts (cannot think of the correct terminology right now, lol), where I can angle the fan anywhere i want.

Something like this, but obviously for a 120 or 80mm Pc fan...


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> These are double stacked ICs, so normal heatsinks wouldn't work, and they are a hit or miss. I think adding a fan is only option. I probably have a AP15 laying around to slap in there. I really need one of those adjustable worm like fan mounts (cannot think of the correct terminology right now, lol), where I can angle the fan anywhere i want.


Oh yeah, those fan mounts are very good, sadly AFAIK they are pretty difficult to get (at least here in Spain)
Also, AP15 should do an excellent work. I slapped my Revoltec fan with a zip-tie zip-tied to the 24pin MoBo connector and that kinda makes it throw the air into the RAM section. That could also do the trick.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Oh yeah, those fan mounts are very good, sadly AFAIK they are pretty difficult to get (at least here in Spain)
> Also, AP15 should do an excellent work. I slapped my Revoltec fan with a zip-tie zip-tied to the 24pin MoBo connector and that kinda makes it throw the air into the RAMsection. That could also do the trick.


Looks like I'm going to have to get creative. lol

Flexible conduit is the term, and I can't find a single product that comes even close. Which is bizarre considering I know I've seen one that can mount 120mm fans right on it, with magnetic base... UGH


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Looks like I'm going to have to get creative. lol
> 
> Flexible conduit is the term, and I can't find a single product that comes even close. Which is bizarre considering I know I've seen one that can mount 120mm fans right on it, with magnetic base... UGH


Zip-tie it!


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Zip-tie it!


Looks that way, lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> You haven't proven almost anything you Said. You can upload whatever you want. But i second what Swisha Said. I won't block you, since i don't like blocking members (never done it on any forums with any members not even with really bad users) but i think it's pretty clear that (at least I) don't belive anything you say (without showing proof).
> 
> I can very easily proof all I say and all I have.
> Remember: No proof never happened.
> 
> So basicaly. I won't block you. But i won't reply to you (at least until you post something really interesting).


This is the first user I've had to block due to their sheer madness... Unfortunately, OCN's system doesn't completely block them. Just adds a spacer and allows you to (click to View) to see their post. so i can still technically see, but not going to bother. Once someone responds to something where he's actually contributing to our club, then I'll peek. But that's just not going to happen, its self evident.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> You are more than happy if a respected & recognized member of this group blocks you?? Ask and you shall receive...
> 
> User Delshay has been blocked by me... I motion that all active users of the s939 Appreciation Club also block this user for your own sake. T'was entertaining at first, but has offered literally NOTHING to our club or its goals... Has succeeded in causing drama and issues, but has provided nothing of progress.


Did that sometime ago and yes, he's a proven troll.


----------



## Blameless

Where are you finding these unbuffered 4GiB 184-pin DDR DIMMs? Or are they registered?


----------



## seaFs

It is DDR400 registered ECC. 4GB per DIMM, Samsung UCCC chips on it


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blameless*
> 
> Where are you finding these unbuffered 4GiB 184-pin DDR DIMMs? Or are they registered?


Also, the only known compatible mobos are ASUS A8N32-SLI, and Asus A8R32-MVP Deluxe (ATI chipset) mobo.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> It is DDR400 registered ECC. 4GB per DIMM, Samsung UCCC chips on it


----------



## toughacton

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Also, the only known compatible mobos are ASUS A8N32-SLI, and DFI CFX (ATI chipset) mobo.






The Asus A8R32-MVP Deluxe (same ATI chipset) will take at least the 2Gb DIMMs and I would imagine the 4Gb ones as well


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> 
> The Asus A8R32-MVP Deluxe (same ATI chipset) will take at least the 2Gb DIMMs and I would imagine the 4Gb ones as well


OH, thats the board you had... I thought it was the DFI one, MY BAD. I don't think the DFI CFX I mentioned is compatible then... my fault, my fault.

EDIT: I corrected my riginal post, but the error will live forever since Toughacton quoted it... lool

Hows that 8GB set doin ya man? Got it stable @ 1T? Did you use our BIOS settings?


----------



## delshay

Doom new updates today. Vulkan is "still" not working.

Processor = FX-60 @2.9Ghz
Memory = 4GB
Ultra Settings 1080p


----------



## rhkcommander959

dfi cfx is NOT compatible, I tried it.

I've had chips stuck at 2.7 (due to thermal limits), get 3.1 delidded. That is the trick with most 939, heat and if your lucky the chip will want less voltage. Some people will reinstall the IHS after lapping both the heat sink-side and IC side to reduce the gap between IC and IHS, althouhg the only reason I could see this is if using the stock retention style heat sink. Using a bolt on heat sink doesn't need that IHS thickness:thumb:

Its too bad we cant get a DDR riser card, spread them out and see if the cooling helps


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> OH, thats the board you had... I thought it was the DFI one, MY BAD. I don't think the DFI CFX I mentioned is compatible then... my fault, my fault.
> 
> EDIT: I corrected my riginal post, but the error will live forever since Toughacton quoted it... lool
> 
> Hows that 8GB set doin ya man? Got it stable @ 1T? Did you use our BIOS settings?


ITs doing well. I may mess around with it a bit more, but i bumped it down to 2T and CL 2.5 so that i can get to 3.0GHz. Your settings did work up to about FSB of 202 (with divider) then BSODs galore. I haven't checked yet to see if i can lower the voltage at these settings. These seem to run quite a bit warmer than my old DIMMs. Currently I'm at 215Mhz 2.5 3 3 5 2T

It feels like the 1T Command rate really wont work much past 200 or so on these 4 DIMMS (though im impressed that it does that as every other set of 4 i have won't). At least with this CPU. I have a 170 I can try as well as a RAM slot fan, and Should be able to get 3+ GHZ and the 1T. Most of my stuff is in storage at the moment since we are trying to move, so it will probably have to wait. I'll be sure to update here though with the final settings when I get it dialed it though.


----------



## delshay

RAM OVERHEATING

My memory was getting very hot, but it has improved. It's not the memory that's really getting hot, it's the "components" around it that's making the memory overheat. This is where the southbridge comes into play.

SOUTHBRIDGE COOLER

It's not really there to cool southbridge chip, even thou the southbridge needs cooling, but the main reason it is there is to cool the GFX card. this is one of four components besides the CPU/GFX that may need cooling.

You can use the Southbridge cooler to direct air at other components this is where something like "Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II" is handy, as you can rotate it and point it in any direction.

Take advantage of the southbridge cooler.

I can use the Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II to cool the ram here but I don't, I use the hyperbridge to help cool the Nano as it can take a bigger fan 60mm, which is better than 40mm, but this all depends on what your trying to cool.

Here it's all about "overall case temperature" as this is where all of the components must live-in.
Front in-take fan (92mm) is used with a filter, this cool air is then picked up by the southbridge fan.

If I use the Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II, I can point this cool air in any direction.

Here I always aim for the hottest device/component(s) and if you think your ram must be cooled, this is where a flower type CPU cooler comes in, as it cools all components around it. I was using a modified Zalman 7700 (blue PWM fan) but upgraded to Zalman 8700.

I have the Noctua NC-U6 on its way, which I may swap/change for the Hyperbridge, depending if it fits & can hold a bigger fan.

I also have Cooler Master Blue Ice 2 cooler which I don't use, but this cooler when fitted to my motherboard southbridge points towards the Ram, all four banks.


----------



## ShrimpBrime

It sounds like you need better case flow. If the ram is hot, the rest of the system is probably hot. Typically memory is the last thing you worry about for actively cooling unless overclocking and over-volting.

So what's the case? how are the fans configured?


----------



## Herm

Hi,

These Samsung DIMMs are really hot by themselves. Without some active cooling in their area, it goes up fast above the 70° working temperature (I went past 90° with only half DIMMs populated...)

Here's how I get these DIMMs cooled :

post_25376572

Can't say if it's noisy, my new power supply cover the noise of my other fans...

In normal use, I now have between 38° (idle) and ~50° (games). Even in memtest, it's still well below 70°. Ambiant is around 30° currently here.

Herm


----------



## delshay

Hold the Phone.

I just spotted. My Asrock motherboard has four holes in each corner of the normal 939 bracket.

In total It has 6 holes.

Has anyone used the four holes in each corner to mount another type of cooler (if) it is present on your motherboard.

Removing the normal plastic bracket it says "RET_AM3" right next to one of the corner holes on the motherboard, I am almost sure this is incorrect..

All Asrock 939 motherboard seems to have this.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> Hold the Phone.
> 
> I just spotted. My Asrock motherboard has four holes in each corner of the normal 939 bracket.
> 
> In total It has 6 holes.
> 
> Has anyone used the four holes in each corner to mount another type of cooler (if) it is present on your motherboard.
> 
> Removing the normal plastic bracket it says "RET_AM3" right next to one of the corner holes on the motherboard, I am almost sure this is incorrect..


Just for the sake of replying, since this is actually true.
Yes, low-end ASRock motherboards do have 4 extra mounting holes under the stock mounting mechanism (no surprise here, at least for me), in my board it doesn't say RET_AM3 (logically, since it's a 2006 board and AM3 didn't exist at that time).
But IIRC i'm pretty certain those are AM3-compatible cooling mounting holes. With the correct AM3 hardware you could mount it, maybe it may require some modding to the mounting hardware, but not much...


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Just for the sake of replying, since this is actually true.
> Yes, low-end ASRock motherboards do have 4 extra mounting holes under the stock mounting mechanism (no surprise here, at least for me), in my board it doesn't say RET_AM3 (logically, since it's a 2006 board and AM3 didn't exist at that time).
> But IIRC i'm pretty certain those are AM3-compatible cooling mounting holes. With the correct AM3 hardware you could mount it, maybe it may require some modding to the mounting hardware, but not much...


Why is Asrock motherboard(s) low end? The southbridge 710 is used on motherboards with DDR2 & DDR3, or is it the motherboard (PCB) itself.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> Why is Asrock motherboard(s) low end? The southbridge 710 is used on motherboards with DDR2 & DDR3, or is it the motherboard (PCB) itself.


It is because of the quality of the components used and the amount of layers the PCB has. The price is cheap for a reason.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> It is because of the quality of the components used and the amount of layers the PCB has. The price is cheap for a reason.


OK..

But I did check the Mosfet(s) PDF docs, its not that bad.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> OK..
> 
> But I did check the Mosfet(s) PDF docs, its not that bad.


It is also a low end board (not all ASRocks, just yours and mine) because it's price tag, they aren't meant to do heavy overclocking. Just to be used as a regular PC system. That's why they lack BIOS features and other stuff, like more USB, SATAs, better audio, etc.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> OK..
> 
> But I did check the Mosfet(s) PDF docs, its not that bad.


A single component does not make the board.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> It is also a low end board (not all ASRocks, just yours and mine) because it's price tag, they aren't meant to do heavy overclocking. Just to be used as a regular PC system. That's why they lack BIOS features and other stuff, like more USB, SATAs, better audio, etc.


I am not really a big overclocker. I set targets & once there are reached that's enough for me, I just want to enjoy it before I break it with more modifications.

By the way, I think it's you with your benchmark on CPU-Z website FX-60 @3015GHz not bad..


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> I am not really a big overclocker. I set targets & once there are reached that's enough for me, I just want to enjoy it before I break it with more modifications.
> 
> By the way, I think it's you with your benchmark on CPU-Z website FX-60 @3015GHz not bad..


Yes. The Infinity NF4 @ 3015Mhz FX-60 is mine. And the ASROCK 939NF4G-SATAII @ 2870mhz too.
I could has run higher clocks on the Infinity NF4 but the heatsink was limiting me and it wasn't really that stable. Just enough to get the validation and some screenshots, after that i belive it did BSOD IIRC.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> A single component does not make the board.


I know that.

That card on the other website, you are the first to know that nearly every component was changed putting CPLD aside to get that speed.

And I have being checking more than the Mosfets, and there has already been a few changes already to the Asrock Motherboard. This is done on my Test Motherboard and if successful it is transferred to my main Motherboard.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> I know that.
> 
> That card on the other website, you are the first to know that nearly every component was changed putting CPLD aside to get that speed.
> 
> And I have being checking more than the Mosfets, and there has already been a few changes already to the Asrock motherboard.


Still. Even with hardware modding. A low end board will still be a low end board.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Got pics?

Stupid question.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Still. Even with hardware modding. A low end board will still be a low end board.


That's part of the challenge, I said before I don't like seeing the same thing. I like to see something different that's why I started this project.

When I got the memory modules at that speed, I said I would put as much as I can the latest up-to-date component(s)/devices surrounding those DDRS.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> That's part of the challenge, I said before I don't like seeing the same thing. I like to see something different that's why I started this project.
> 
> When I got the memory modules at that speed, I said I would put as much as I can the latest up-to-date component(s)/devices surrounding those DDRS.


You simply can't grab a 785 Asrock low end board and "transform" it into a DFI LanParty NF4 or something. The same as you can't get a H110 board and transform it into a Z170 Maximus Extreme


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> You simply can't grab a 785 Asrock low end board and "transform" it into a DFI LanParty NF4 or something. The same as you can't get a H110 board and transform it into a Z170 Maximus Extreme


I am not saying I can do that.

CPU Mosfets only on Asrock motherboard has already been changed with more Mosfets changes to come with replacement Capacitors/Chokes.

I started this yesterday.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Yes. The Infinity NF4 @ 3015Mhz FX-60 is mine. And the ASROCK 939NF4G-SATAII @ 2870mhz too.
> I could has run higher clocks on the Infinity NF4 but the heatsink was limiting me and it wasn't really that stable. Just enough to get the validation and some screenshots, after that i belive it did BSOD IIRC.


@All do not try the following CPNS8900 on a 939 motherboard.

Zalman CPNS8900 cooler on its way, hopefully here Tuesday, let's see if there is a improvement on the CPNS8700. I think I have found a way to fit CPNS8900.

There are no issues here, I can play Doom for hours. 2.950Ghz but I am working on it to get the speed up.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> @All do not try the following CPNS8900 on a 939 motherboard.
> 
> Zalman CPNS8900 cooler on its way, hopefully here Tuesday, let's see if there is a improvement on the CPNS8700. I think I have found a way to fit CPNS8900.
> 
> There are no issues here, I can play Doom for hours.


AFAIK CNPS (or was it CPNS?) series of heatsinks from Zalman are no longer made and very difficult to find brand new.

And no, delshay, you can't do that. Noone can. Because it's impossible (unless you literally change everything including PCB). Low end board is still low end even if you change heatsinks, mosfets, caps,etc.

EDIT: As i Said multiple times, just get a decent board and continue your thing... Much better than losing time on a cheapo board. Also. High end 939 boards nowadays aren't that expensive. I see every day A8Ns for 30€ aprox.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> AFAIK CNPS (or was it CPNS?) series of heatsinks from Zalman are no longer made and very difficult to find brand new.
> 
> And no, delshay, you can't do that. Noone can. Because it's impossible (unless you literally change everything including PCB). Low end board is still low end even if you change heatsinks, mosfets, caps,etc.


CNPS did this from memory.

Most of my heatsink are new. I have the gold/copper version of the 8700 which I don't use. .Too noisey fan spins at 2800rpm.

Some of my heatsink have modified fans.. ie has LED with PWM.

Correction in one of my posting, it should have said. " I am not saying I can do that".


----------



## gasparspeed

@Mr.Scott
Do you know if it's possible to mod the DFI Lapnarty NF4 SLI-DR Expert BIOS into the Infinity NF4's BIOS?
I would like to have the 1:2 250Mhz memory divider so i can run @ full speed my Ballistix Tracers PC4000 modules on that board without overclocking by bus.

Also, does anyone have any idea of what memory IC do the 512Mb Ballistix Tracer PC4000 2.5-4-4-8 modules have?
I've got a pair of OCZ PC3500 BH-5s and i saw on the DFI Expert review that with 4x512Mb modules being all of them BH-5 it can do 4x512Mb 1T. And it would be great to be able to run both of them (if the Ballistixs are BH-5 too) to get 2GB of RAM at decent speeds.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> @Mr.Scott
> Do you know if it's possible to mod the DFI Lapnarty NF4 SLI-DR Expert BIOS into the Infinity NF4's BIOS?
> I would like to have the 1:2 250Mhz memory divider so i can run @ full speed my Ballistix Tracers PC4000 modules on that board without overclocking by bus.
> 
> Also, does anyone have any idea of what memory IC do the 512Mb Ballistix Tracer PC4000 2.5-4-4-8 modules have?
> I've got a pair of OCZ PC3500 BH-5s and i saw on the DFI Expert review that with 4x512Mb modules being all of them BH-5 it can do 4x512Mb 1T. And it would be great to be able to run both of them (if the Ballistixs are BH-5 too) to get 2GB of RAM at decent speeds.


Hold the phone

I did not know you can run 1T with 4x512Mb unbuffered memory, must be something I missed.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> Hold the phone
> 
> I did not know you can run 1T with 4x512Mb unbuffered memory, must be something I missed.


Look @ TechPowerUp's review of the DFI Lanparty SLI-DR Expert

With TCCDs they ran 4x512Mb 200Mhz 2-3-3-5 1T (couldn't run 2-2-2-5)
And with BH-5s (and one of the 2x512Mb kits is the same kit as my OCZ PC3500 BH-5) they ran it @ 200Mhz 2.5-2-2-5 1T (again, 2-2-2-5 wasn't stable enough)

EDIT: Link to TechPowerUp's review


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> @Mr.Scott
> Do you know if it's possible to mod the DFI Lapnarty NF4 SLI-DR Expert BIOS into the Infinity NF4's BIOS?
> I would like to have the 1:2 250Mhz memory divider so i can run @ full speed my Ballistix Tracers PC4000 modules on that board without overclocking by bus.


It already has the option.







The positive dividers are dependent on the multiplier used.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Also, does anyone have any idea of what memory IC do the 512Mb Ballistix Tracer PC4000 2.5-4-4-8 modules have?
> I've got a pair of OCZ PC3500 BH-5s and i saw on the DFI Expert review that with 4x512Mb modules being all of them BH-5 it can do 4x512Mb 1T. And it would be great to be able to run both of them (if the Ballistixs are BH-5 too) to get 2GB of RAM at decent speeds.


All of the Ballistix are Micron chipped.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> It already has the option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The positive dividers are dependent on the multiplier used.
> All of the Ballistix are Micron chipped.


Wo, thanks for the info!







+REP
Well, then i guess i have one kit of each "main" IC type (one TCCD, one BH-5 and one Micron). Not bad having in mind each kit was like 15€ shipped on eBay








I didn't know it depended on the multi, maybe that's why they didn't show up the first time i looked for them


----------



## Mr.Scott

Yes. Try lowering the CPU multi a click or two and then you should start to see the positive options.
It's still a balancing act. I know what you want to do, but you may not be able to.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Look @ TechPowerUp's review of the DFI Lanparty SLI-DR Expert
> 
> With TCCDs they ran 4x512Mb 200Mhz 2-3-3-5 1T (couldn't run 2-2-2-5)
> And with BH-5s (and one of the 2x512Mb kits is the same kit as my OCZ PC3500 BH-5) they ran it @ 200Mhz 2.5-2-2-5 1T (again, 2-2-2-5 wasn't stable enough)
> 
> EDIT: Link to TechPowerUp's review


According to this webpage it can't do 1T with 4 sticks.

https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/DFI/LPNF4Expert/17.html

I was impressed by the BIOS CL1-0-0-0.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> I was impressed by the BIOS CL1-0-0-0.


This just proves to me that you don't listen to a word I say.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> This just proves to me that you don't listen to a word I say.


Scott, if go back a few pages I pointed out that it must also be in the CPU register. Someone in this thread has posted a link of the CPU Doc of the FX-60 which shows anything below 2 is reserved. This is not to say it does not work, but I have a feeling it could also be CPU specific, but I could be wrong.


----------



## Mr.Scott

OK, one more time. As a respected DFI Street member with inside track, CL1 on any DFI board, or ANY board for that matter, does not work. There is no package associated with it. CL1.5 does work, but the boards will not boot set to it. You have to change it within windows after boot.
I can make a CL1 selection in any bios for you, on any board, but that doesn't mean it will work.
It just says CL1.
Marketing my friend. That's all it was.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> OK, one more time. As a respected DFI Street member with inside track, CL1 on any DFI board, or ANY board for that matter, does not work. There is no package associated with it. CL1.5 does work, but the boards will not boot set to it. You have to change it within windows after boot.
> I can make a CL1 selection in any bios for you, on any board, but that doesn't mean it will work.
> It just says CL1.
> Marketing my friend. That's all it was.


Perhaps DFI were thinking into the year 2025 I don't know.

What I do know is I see more information than most or probably all users here, testing is different here.

How you set it does not matter, it just needs to be there I will do the rest in the SPD. It will flag-up here if it works.

If there are errors I will see this too.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> OK, one more time. As a respected DFI Street member with inside track, CL1 on any DFI board, or ANY board for that matter, does not work. There is no package associated with it. CL1.5 does work, but the boards will not boot set to it. You have to change it within windows after boot.
> I can make a CL1 selection in any bios for you, on any board, but that doesn't mean it will work.
> It just says CL1.
> Marketing my friend. That's all it was.


The reason most if not all user have to set CL1.5 from windows is because their do not have CL1.5 profile in the SPD.

It must be set at byte 18,23 & 24 in the SPD. There is also the added problem if the memory module is not fast enough it will not boot.

I know my memory module will do CL1.5 but at what speed. .as I said, CL1.5 was set during the start of this project.

Here I just change two settings in the BIOS, everything else is auto.


----------



## mattliston

what are you talking about?

"memory not fast enough it wont boot"

false statement.

windows and BIOS do not care what speed you run anything, only that it is stable enough to be used.

if there was a chip capable of running at ddr-66MHz it would still work. you would be creating a serious impact on performance, but it would still work


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattliston*
> 
> what are you talking about?
> 
> "memory not fast enough it wont boot"
> 
> false statement.
> 
> windows and BIOS do not care what speed you run anything, only that it is stable enough to be used.
> 
> if there was a chip capable of running at ddr-66MHz it would still work. you would be creating a serious impact on performance, but it would still work


I am taking about "CL1.5" auto booting. Maybe I should have said at 200MHz standard. It still applies.

what are you trying to say, you can set CL to 2 & run any speed you like? is this what your telling me?

We are taking high performance memory module (225MHz+), not 66MHz.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattliston*
> 
> what are you talking about?
> 
> "memory not fast enough it wont boot"
> 
> false statement.
> 
> windows and BIOS do not care what speed you run anything, only that it is stable enough to be used.
> 
> if there was a chip capable of running at ddr-66MHz it would still work. you would be creating a serious impact on performance, but it would still work




This is what we are taking about CL1.5 profile in the above memory modules. What are you taking about?


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> The reason most if not all user have to set CL1.5 from windows is because their do not have CL1.5 profile in the SPD.


Not true. Geil One has CL1.5 in SPD and that won't boot when set in bios either.

Honestly, we've been through this already a number of times. I'm really quite finished. GL


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Not true. Geil One has CL1.5 in SPD and that won't boot when set in bios either.
> 
> Honestly, we've been through this already a number of times. I'm really quite finished. GL


Geil had two profiles if I remember correctly, if it does not boot direct into CL1.5 then one of the profile must be removed. ie CL2 or CL2.5 then the BIOS can only read one profile, but BIOS must be set-up to read the CL1.5 profile from the SPD.

If I am able to get it to auto-boot @CL2 then CL1.5 should not be a problem.

If it still refuse to boot with just a CL1.5 profile, then the BIOS is not set correctly and should boot back to a default setting.

OK. ..leave it at that


----------



## cssorkinman

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/geil-cl-1,1085-6.html


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/geil-cl-1,1085-6.html


Thanks

But what I want to know, can my 1GB memory module(s) I have here do CL1.5.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/geil-cl-1,1085-6.html


Thank you Corky.
Notice, little if any improvement between CL2 and CL1.5 in almost all benchmarks. This is true..........except for SPi. The difference is enough to win or lose a competitive bench contest.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> But what I want to know, can my 1GB memory module(s) I have here do CL1.5.


Maybe. I already showed you a set of Infineon chipped 1gig sticks that will.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Maybe. I already showed you a set of Infineon chipped 1gig sticks that will.


scott I just need to test mine, as CL1.5 you have already proven shown 1GB. there's no need.


----------



## Mr.Scott

So.........test away. Boot to windows, open A64tweaker, set CL to 1.0 (it's really 1.5







), hit set.
If it doesn't immediately freeze, choose your test and run.
It doesn't have to be anything more elaborate than that.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> So.........test away. Boot to windows, open A64tweaker, set CL to 1.0 (it's really 1.5
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), hit set.
> If it doesn't immediately freeze, choose your test and run.
> It doesn't have to be anything more elaborate than that.


that program does not work on windows 7 64bit


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/geil-cl-1,1085-6.html
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you Corky.
> Notice, little if any improvement between CL2 and CL1.5 in almost all benchmarks. This is true..........except for SPi. The difference is enough to win or lose a competitive bench contest.
Click to expand...

Had forgotten about those, remember reading the article back in the day.

Would you happen to know of a good source for drivers for my DFI NF4 sli?


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Would you happen to know of a good source for drivers for my DFI NF4 sli?


For what OS?


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> For what OS?


xp 32 bit


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> xp 32 bit


http://www.guru3d.com/files-get/nforce-driver-15-23-xp-32-bit-whql,1.html


----------



## Mr.Scott

You'll also need the SATA drivers for F6 on install.
Here. Unzip to floppy or whatever you're using for media.

F6SATADriversforDFINF4.zip 531k .zip file


----------



## delshay

http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/memory-performance-speed-latency


----------



## seaFs

Alright, I put out my 16GB machine again and played a little.

First of all I wanted to know whether the DIMMs are capable of 235MHz at all, and they are not.








Settings were 235MHz 3-4-3-8 1T 2,6V. I reordered the DIMMs from worst to best in the slots (worst DIMM is next to the CPU, everything better is more distant). Now I'm running Prime95 blend to see if 214,5MHz 3-4-3-8 1T 2,6V are stable at all, looking good for 15 minutes now. Testing goes on.

Does anybody of you remember how to handle UCCC? I read that "drive strength weak" is good for Samsung, so I enabled it. Also changed DDR clock skew from "advance 150ps" to "advance 300ps". Maybe that helps. Delay 150ps is instable and results in BSOD before reaching the Win7 desktop.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Alright, I put out my 16GB machine again and played a little.
> 
> First of all I wanted to know whether the DIMMs are capable of 235MHz at all, and they are not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Settings were 235MHz 3-4-3-8 1T 2,6V. I reordered the DIMMs from worst to best in the slots (worst DIMM is next to the CPU, everything better is more distant). Now I'm running Prime95 blend to see if 214,5MHz 3-4-3-8 1T 2,6V are stable at all, looking good for 15 minutes now. Testing goes on.
> 
> Does anybody of you remember how to handle UCCC? I read that "drive strength weak" is good for Samsung, so I enabled it. Also changed DDR clock skew from "advance 150ps" to "advance 300ps". Maybe that helps. Delay 150ps is instable and results in BSOD before reaching the Win7 desktop.


Throw the voltage up with some active cooling? 3.1v?? lol


----------



## seaFs

Errors after 1 hour at Prime95 blend 14400MB 768k test. The 768k test fails reproducably. Maybe it needs even higher timings. Or ECC








At least it's good to see that 16GB 200MHz work at all.

@Swisha: That's the question: Does UCCC want high volts? I don't think so. Before today I set Vdimm 2.7V with less stability than now. Unfortunately the A8N32 allows Vdimm to be 2.6V minimum, nothing less. And 2.8V will certainly push the DIMMs into thermal limits, even with my ghetto-style cooling.

BUT guess what. Now I've found a memory test that gives me errors within minutes. That was the big deal with the Qimonda CF-5 DIMMs, too. Finding a quick test to verify the overclock. i don't want to wait hours, I want fast results and rush through the settings.


----------



## delshay

ZALMAN CNPS8900 HACK ON 939 MOTHERBOARD

Do not try the above cooler on 939 Motherboards, it will not fit. This hack is done on ASROCK as it has extra 4 holes in Motherboard.

Heatsink is fitter, will turn on in 1 Hour to check which cools better between CNPS8900 & CNPS8700.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> ZALMAN CNPS8900 HACK ON 939 MOTHERBOARD
> 
> Do not try the above cooler on 939 Motherboards, it will not fit. This hack is done on ASROCK as it has extra 4 holes in Motherboard.
> 
> Heatsink is fitter, will turn on in 1 Hour to check which cools better between CNPS8900 & CNPS8700.


You used stock AM3 Zalman mounting hardware or went with a bit of mod for it? Any pics?


----------



## seaFs

Now tweaked a bit and it survives Prime95 blend 768k for 15 minutes, after that errors occur. I didn't tweak the sub timings, but the "other" settings, like asyc (sic!) latency and drive strength settings. Now I need to check for the sub timings. And I think I need to set tRP to 4. Also Vdimm is set to auto, which seems to be 2.5V. At least it is more stable than VDimm set to 2.6V
Oh, and everything is without ECC.

[edit]
No amount of tweaking made the memory run stable in Prime95. Even 3-4-4-8 and relaxing sub timings didn't help.
Now I do what herm did in the beginning: Enabling ECC








Everything else untouched, the DIMMs survive the 768k test for 15 minutes without any errors. Now I'm trying 3-3-3-8. Everything with Vdimm set to auto (i think it's 2.5V, but I can't be sure). Maybe there is a chance to get this f*cking RAM past 230MHz


----------



## CrazyMonkey

I think I got lucky to get hands on one of this beauties...

http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/886/sapphire_pure_crossfire_pc_a9rd580_motherboard/index.html

Anyone with some experience on it?!


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Now tweaked a bit and it survives Prime95 blend 768k for 15 minutes, after that errors occur. I didn't tweak the sub timings, but the "other" settings, like asyc (sic!) latency and drive strength settings. Now I need to check for the sub timings. And I think I need to set tRP to 4. Also Vdimm is set to auto, which seems to be 2.5V. At least it is more stable than VDimm set to 2.6V
> Oh, and everything is without ECC.
> 
> [edit]
> No amount of tweaking made the memory run stable in Prime95. Even 3-4-4-8 and relaxing sub timings didn't help.
> Now I do what herm did in the beginning: Enabling ECC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything else untouched, the DIMMs survive the 768k test for 15 minutes without any errors. Now I'm trying 3-3-3-8. Everything with Vdimm set to auto (i think it's 2.5V, but I can't be sure). Maybe there is a chance to get this f*cking RAM past 230MHz


Different divider.








CPU multi to 10x
Work with the bus speed over 300
Don't forget to change the HT link multi to 3x


----------



## seaFs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Different divider.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CPU multi to 10x
> Work with the bus speed over 300
> Don't forget to change the HT link multi to 3x


There is no use for 10x, because it resullts in mem divider 12 or 15. I need 13 and 14.
10.5x 286MHz was no boot


----------



## delshay

ZALMAN CNPS8900 HACK ON 939 MOTHERBOARD UPDATE (mixed results)

This heatsink looks very promising. Lots of motherboard shut down. Shutdown was cause by fan not able to spin beyond 1600rpm.

FANSPEED

Be careful, ZALMAN seem to have changed the fan. Fan here was unable to go beyond 1600rpm, but this is part of the problem.

It is still a PWM fan, but i had to disabled it in the BIOS, as it just not spinning up fast enough (sometimes) to cool the CPU.

With the fan spinning upto 1600rpm at this stage (open case), Northbridge & VRM overheats.
Its important that a fan must reach the min 2000rpm in-order to cool surrounding components when CPU is at full load. (Fan to be modified).

Testing continues today.

Be aware this is a hack & is not for a 939 motherboard.

OTHER NOTES:

Noctua NC-U6 is here, not impress at all with the finish (very poor), for sure will be lapped. This is another chipset heatsink that you can rotate & point cool air in other directions.

ASROCK MOTHERBOARD

The extra 4 holes on these's motherboard I think are made for water cooling, but I an not sure of this.

Example: This is not a 939 Motherboard, but that is a Noctua NC-U6 in action. As you can see you can mount a fan on the back of the Noctua NC-U6 & cool that card or the Ram.


----------



## delshay

ZALMAN CNPS8900 HACK ON 939 MOTHERBOARD QUICK UPDATE

Noctua NC-U6 lapped with 400 grit sandpaper only.
Motherboard GFX hits a all time high, normally 500MHz. (lapping to be completed)
You can also see it has DDR2 sideband Memory (not overclocked).



All testing is done on a test Motherboard, not my normal Motherboard.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Now tweaked a bit and it survives Prime95 blend 768k for 15 minutes, after that errors occur. I didn't tweak the sub timings, but the "other" settings, like asyc (sic!) latency and drive strength settings. Now I need to check for the sub timings. And I think I need to set tRP to 4. Also Vdimm is set to auto, which seems to be 2.5V. At least it is more stable than VDimm set to 2.6V
> Oh, and everything is without ECC.
> 
> [edit]
> No amount of tweaking made the memory run stable in Prime95. Even 3-4-4-8 and relaxing sub timings didn't help.
> Now I do what herm did in the beginning: Enabling ECC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything else untouched, the DIMMs survive the 768k test for 15 minutes without any errors. Now I'm trying 3-3-3-8. Everything with Vdimm set to auto (i think it's 2.5V, but I can't be sure). Maybe there is a chance to get this f*cking RAM past 230MHz


Isn't there a huge performance hit with ECC? Yeah you can OC to a higher Freq. because less errors, but what good is it if performance takes a hit? Or is it negligible? I'm RIGHT at the cusp of 6k read/write with 3-3-3-8 @ 1T at 2.6v. If I could squeeze out 6.5k like you, stable, I'd be ok with that. Considering some of the best scores i could get in old days with plain 2x 1gb setup is high 6k, low 7k. Avg. 6800-6900.

Currently at 5800+ to 6K, depending on its mood at the moment, and any background things you can barely control...









btw, my 16GB kit is not stable at 200Mhz at 2.5-3-3-8-1T, only 3-3-3-8. Maybe I'll try lowering to deafult vDimm so its only 2.5v. That sounds right. Why would there be a 2.6v option if default is 2.6v?


----------



## hartofwave

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyMonkey*
> 
> I think I got lucky to get hands on one of this beauties...
> 
> http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/886/sapphire_pure_crossfire_pc_a9rd580_motherboard/index.html
> 
> Anyone with some experience on it?!


Wow that's quite the board


----------



## CrazyMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hartofwave*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *CrazyMonkey*
> 
> I think I got lucky to get hands on one of this beauties...
> 
> http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/886/sapphire_pure_crossfire_pc_a9rd580_motherboard/index.html
> 
> Anyone with some experience on it?!
> 
> 
> 
> Wow that's quite the board
Click to expand...

Hope it works as I brought it as untested for £5... The guy was selling it as an Asus board...

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk


----------



## seaFs

@Swisha: the Screenshots are with ECC enabled. The performance hit is negligable. Also remember that reg DIMMs habe Power performance because of the buffer Chip that delays the address signal by one clock.

The default voltage specified by JEDEC is indeed 2.5V, so I guess auto should gibt you that default 2.5V.

Without ECC there are the erratic errors herm pointed out months ago.


----------



## delshay

ZALMAN CNPS8900 HACK ON 939 MOTHERBOARD UPDATE

FX-60 3GHz unlocked I have found the problem on most or probably all FX-60 with 3GHz+ problem.

ASROCK Motherboard is coming to rock those DFI, MSI, ASUS, you name it I am coming.

NOTE: The Motherboard GFX chip & CPU Voltage. This Voltage is going to come down, but performance is going to go up. WARNING.

Screenshot below is 100% stable.. But it's going to be Enhanced.



The above CPU would never do 2.9GHz, but now it is unlocked (problem found), so I expecting my very best FX-60 CPU to hit 3.2GHz on air.

TESTING

Cooler: Zalman CNPS8900 (Hack with upgraded fan) & Noctua NC-U6 (Northbridge cooler) & 550w power supply.

Motherboard ASROCK


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> ZALMAN CNPS8900 HACK ON 939 MOTHERBOARD UPDATE
> 
> FX-60 3GHz unlocked I have found the problem on most or probably all FX-60 with 3GHz+ problem.
> 
> ASROCK Motherboard is coming to rock those DFI, MSI, ASUS, you name it I am coming.
> 
> NOTE: The Motherboard GFX chip & CPU Voltage. This Voltage is going to come down, but performance is going to go up. WARNING.
> 
> Screenshot below is 100% stable.. But it's going to be Enhanced.
> 
> 
> 
> The above CPU would never do 2.9GHz, but now it is unlocked (problem found), so I expecting my very best FX-60 CPU to hit 3.2GHz on air.


No surprise on that clock @ that VCore, pretty much the same VCore and same clocks as my FX-60. I want to see that thing go over a DFI or a ASUS, still no validations from you on valid.x86.fr page...
One question tho, if that is your main computer why you don't have your iGPU drivers installed?


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> No surprise on that clock @ that VCore, pretty much the same VCore and same clocks as my FX-60. I want to see that thing go over a DFI or a ASUS, still no validations from you on valid.x86.fr page...
> One question tho, if that is your main computer why you don't have your iGPU drivers installed?


It's not my main computer, its a ASROCK TEST MOTHERBOARD, its the same as my main computer.
The high voltage to the CPU is just for show, it there to check that the cooler can keep the CPU cool.

When everthing is confirmed 100% ok, then it is transferred to my main computer motherboard. This motherboard already has a number of changes, VRM has changed.

All those fancy big name Motherboards are in trouble.


----------



## seaFs

My 4400+ did 3.2GHz on air, too. With quad DIMM DDR533








And I have a cpuz validation :trololo:
But I won't link it, you have to look for it on your own


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> It's not my main computer, its a ASROCK TEST MOTHERBOARD, its the same as my main computer.
> The high voltage to the CPU is just for show, it there to check that the cooler can keep the CPU cool.
> 
> When everthing is confirmed 100% ok, then it is transferred to my main computer motherboard. This motherboard already has a number of changes, VRM has changed.
> 
> All those fancy big name Motherboards are in trouble.


Oh c'mon................


----------



## mattliston

sounds like delshay believes simply adding higher capabale components is the ticket.

Delshay, if it was truly that simple we would regularly see insane OC'ing motherboards capable of pushing double the factory voltages with tons of capacitive support to clean up the rails. Especially if adding only 20-40 bucks worth of components

But we dont.

my Crosshair V Forumla Z that fully supports a 9590 in LN2 mode doesnt even have that cool of components. But go ahead.

Far better for motherboards is cleaning up all the voltage droops and peaks. properly calculated capacitance added will be the advantage here, especially on old hardware.


----------



## SwishaMane

So I just copied seaFs settings for my machine, and Prime95 failed before it started. BSOD actually. My gear isn't capable of CRAP. Im at 3ghz, but its not full load stable, part of it is my cooling I think. At stock everything, my temps under load are stil 60C. UGH! Cant wait for AM4 so i can turn my AM3 machine into my HTPC and retire this s939 gear as framed artwork for the wall...


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> So I just copied seaFs settings for my machine, and Prime95 failed before it started. BSOD actually. My gear isn't capable of CRAP. Im at 3ghz, but its not full load stable, part of it is my cooling I think. At stock everything, my temps under load are stil 60C. UGH! Cant wait for AM4 so i can turn my AM3 machine into my HTPC and retire this s939 gear as framed artwork for the wall...


I really want to see that S939 as artwork xD


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyMonkey*
> 
> I think I got lucky to get hands on one of this beauties...
> 
> http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/886/sapphire_pure_crossfire_pc_a9rd580_motherboard/index.html
> 
> Anyone with some experience on it?!


It is a wall hanger.








Pretty rare board now. As far as performance...........just another mediocre 939 board. Pretty though.


----------



## CrazyMonkey

Just got it for the bling to be honest... Always loved the looks of it...


----------



## Mr.Scott

It is a keeper that's for sure.


----------



## xzamples

I would like to resurrect my 939 gaming rig as a fun project, possibly give it to one of my family members, however I want to get the best skt 939 cpu I can get

Do you guys the 939 can handle todays games such as dota 2, csgo, diablo 3, etc. on high settings? combined with a 2gb or 4gb video card?

what is the best skt 939 cpu i can get?

any help would be appreciated

(look in my sig for the cpu model and motherboard)


----------



## Oj010

Just over 3 GHz at almost 1.6v is pretty damn bad, there's nothing special about it.

Wanna impress me? I'm at just under 4 GHz on S939, you're not. Beat that. Oh, and also 600 MHz 3-3-3-9 - it took me less than 30 minutes to achieve.

You're regurgitating results most of us beat so long ago that we've forgotten. Do something impressive for once, cause right now you're a kid playing with the hounds.


----------



## seaFs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> So I just copied seaFs settings for my machine, and Prime95 failed before it started. BSOD actually. My gear isn't capable of CRAP. Im at 3ghz, but its not full load stable, part of it is my cooling I think. At stock everything, my temps under load are stil 60C. UGH! Cant wait for AM4 so i can turn my AM3 machine into my HTPC and retire this s939 gear as framed artwork for the wall...


I noticed something I didn't think of before.
Remember when I wrote down my settings for the 8GB CF-5 chips? I sayd: use DDR clock skew advance 150ps, but I didn't work for you.
No guess what, the best results with 16GB UCCC are with advance 150ps, although this is totally different memory, both in size and in manufacturing.
So, might this be a CPU-dependent memory setting?

First thing I did was to set the 4 standard timings and everything else was at auto. DDR clock skew set to normal, ECC disabled and then I ran Prime95 blend. That's how I found about the 768k test to be very responsive to errors. (Maybe it's another test for you PC.)

For what I can tell: The DIMMs do 3-3-3-8 just fine with the little 7% overclock (214.5MHz), no need to set anything to 4. Sub timings not touched, but stability is very sensitive to tRFC changes. (auto works best)
- DDR clock skew grants some stability improvememnts, start with this setting.

Look into Everest/Aida64 to check for the other timings that are set to auto. Try to set leave as many options at auto as possible when switching to manual mode in BIOS.
- The next things I changed were Read Preamble time and Asyc Latency. Both values have a big influence on stability.
Aida64 also reads out these values. The auto setting set it to 6.0ns and 9ns, but when setting it to the exact same values in BIOS, the machine doesn't even POST. In case you experience the same, start with 5.5ns and 7ns and work your way from there on. My final settings were 4.5ns and 6ns for 214.5MHz. With every new memory overclock both setings have to be changed.

- Third setting was Drive strength "normal/weak". "Weak" seems to be best, but for 220MHz "normal" was more stable.

- DDR Data Driving Strength: start with normal and work your way through the three settings. Some impact on stability.

So in the end six settings to reach my goal. And a full day for finding this out


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xzamples*
> 
> I would like to resurrect my 939 gaming rig as a fun project, possibly give it to one of my family members, however I want to get the best skt 939 cpu I can get
> 
> Do you guys the 939 can handle todays games such as dota 2, csgo, diablo 3, etc. on high settings? combined with a 2gb or 4gb video card?
> 
> what is the best skt 939 cpu i can get?
> 
> any help would be appreciated
> 
> (look in my sig for the cpu model and motherboard)


Best at stock or overclocked? Single or dual core?


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattliston*
> 
> sounds like delshay believes simply adding higher capabale components is the ticket.
> 
> Delshay, if it was truly that simple we would regularly see insane OC'ing motherboards capable of pushing double the factory voltages with tons of capacitive support to clean up the rails. Especially if adding only 20-40 bucks worth of components
> 
> But we dont.
> 
> my Crosshair V Forumla Z that fully supports a 9590 in LN2 mode doesnt even have that cool of components. But go ahead.
> 
> Far better for motherboards is cleaning up all the voltage droops and peaks. properly calculated capacitance added will be the advantage here, especially on old hardware.


There a bit more to it than what you are saying here. I don't expect to hit the top of the leaderboard in overclocking because I am on air cooling.

Whatever I have done it is "an step forward", that CPU I could never get it to work even at 2.9GHz, look at where it is now.

But some of your points are valid. To get the best out of a FX-60 you need a efficient power supply. It's all about "efficiency" & "cooling" in the power phase.
Components have improved since the days of 939, there are much, much better today.

Take a look at the motherboard below around the CPU area, what has improved?
what is different that most 939 Motherboards do not have.
It's not a big game changer, but what area has been cleaned up?


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> Just over 3 GHz at almost 1.6v is pretty damn bad, there's nothing special about it.
> 
> Wanna impress me? I'm at just under 4 GHz on S939, you're not. Beat that. Oh, and also 600 MHz 3-3-3-9 - it took me less than 30 minutes to achieve.
> 
> You're regurgitating results most of us beat so long ago that we've forgotten. Do something impressive for once, cause right now you're a kid playing with the hounds.


oh yes there is.

If you look at the screenshot carefully you can see the CPU is at 98/100% load. I don't remember seeing the CPU exceeding 70 or even 68c.

The heatsink is a "hack".

I need to make this clear. Voltage is set to the "max", what it is doing is checking that the heatsink can deal with the excessive heat. ..Its also checking that the air from CPU cooler is also cooling the VRM to an acceptable level. That's what it is doing.

The test was conducted with "no case fan" & southbridge fan (Cooler Master Blue Ice RT-UCL-L4U1 ) during testing is sometimes disabled.

I will not be going 4GHz, that's for sure. I don't want water,ect,ect whatever cooling.

Testing & more modification continues today, hopefully with improve results. Lots of work, early start.


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> oh yes there is.
> 
> If you look at the screenshot carefully you can see the CPU is at 98/100% load. I don't remember seeing the CPU exceeding 70 or even 68c.
> 
> The heatsink is a "hack".
> 
> I need to make this clear. Voltage is set to the "max", what it is doing is checking that the heatsink can deal with the excessive heat. ..Its also checking that the air from CPU cooler is also cooling the VRM to an acceptable level. That's what it is doing.
> 
> The test was conducted with "no case fan" & southbridge fan (cooler master) during testing is sometimes disabled.
> 
> I will not be going 4GHz, that's for sure. I don't want water, vapour whatever cooling.
> 
> Testing & more modification continues today, hopefully with improve results. Lots of work, early start.


Wow, better cooling = a better overclock? We would never have guessed! NOW I understand why I started to use LN2 a decade ago.

Again, do something impressive that we can't or stop pretending you're doing something new and unknown.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xzamples*
> 
> I would like to resurrect my 939 gaming rig as a fun project, possibly give it to one of my family members, however I want to get the best skt 939 cpu I can get
> 
> Do you guys the 939 can handle todays games such as dota 2, csgo, diablo 3, etc. on high settings? combined with a 2gb or 4gb video card?
> 
> what is the best skt 939 cpu i can get?
> 
> any help would be appreciated
> 
> (look in my sig for the cpu model and motherboard)


The best for stock clocks would be or an FX-60 (unlocked for overclock, 2.6Ghz stock, 2MB L2 cache and dual-core) or, IIRC there was an Opteron 190 or something like that that was running @ 2.8Ghz (dual core too with 2MB L2 cache too, but locked).

I used to have my FX-60 for gaming 2 years ago, never played DOTA 2 nor CS:Go, but BF3 was a PITA (well, also keep in mind i was using an HD 7470, that's a HD 6450 overclocked, with a better card it may have been better).
LoL for example was playable @ 1080p min graphic settings @ about 30-50FPS (depending on things on-screen, etc.)

My guess is that if you get an dual-core 939 CPU and a decend videocard you should be able to play some of those games (not too sure about Diablo), but not @ 1080p Ultra. Maybe between 1080p low and 1080p medium settings.
Also, you'll need 4GB of RAM min.

Also, some pages back, a user posted some videos of him playing Crysis @ 4K with his FX-60 and an 780 Ti (IIRC). You may look at his youtube channel, since he had lots of videos on different hardware too.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> The best for stock clocks would be or an FX-60 (unlocked for overclock, 2.6Ghz stock, 2MB L2 cache and dual-core) or, IIRC there was an Opteron 190 or something like that that was running @ 2.8Ghz (dual core too with 2MB L2 cache too, but locked).
> 
> I used to have my FX-60 for gaming 2 years ago, never played DOTA 2 nor CS:Go, but BF3 was a PITA (well, also keep in mind i was using an HD 7470, that's a HD 6450 overclocked, with a better card it may have been better).
> LoL for example was playable @ 1080p min graphic settings @ about 30-50FPS (depending on things on-screen, etc.)
> 
> My guess is that if you get an dual-core 939 CPU and a decend videocard you should be able to play some of those games (not too sure about Diablo), but not @ 1080p Ultra. Maybe between 1080p low and 1080p medium settings.
> Also, you'll need 4GB of RAM min.
> 
> Also, some pages back, a user posted some videos of him playing Crysis @ 4K with his FX-60 and an 780 Ti (IIRC). You may look at his youtube channel, since he had lots of videos on different hardware too.


That was me who posted that link. That was impressive 4K gaming.

I don't have a 4K monitor otherwise I would test at this screenmode. I can confirm DOOM plays smooth here with FX-60 on my set-up. (1080p Ultra settings). Because of the 4GB limit, not sure of this you may need a SSD drive, which I do have in my system.

What is the most demanding game(s) today on CPU? ..I want to see how FX-60 copes with more modern games with extreme stress on the CPU.


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> That was me who posted that link. That was impressive 4K gaming.
> 
> I don't have a 4K monitor otherwise I would test at this screenmode. I can confirm DOOM plays smooth here with FX-60 on my set-up. (1080p Ultra settings)
> 
> What is the most demanding game(s) today on CPU? ..I want to see how FX-60 copes with more modern games with extreme stress on the CPU.


Probably one of the new Total War series games.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> That was me who posted that link. That was impressive 4K gaming.
> 
> I don't have a 4K monitor otherwise I would test at this screenmode. I can confirm DOOM plays smooth here with FX-60 on my set-up. (1080p Ultra settings)
> 
> What is the most demanding game(s) today on CPU? ..I want to see how FX-60 copes with more modern games with extreme stress on the CPU.


Any game CPU bound, CS:Go is, but if you want to really stress a Socket 939 CPU, try a 64 player Conquest (+ real-time destruction) BF4 game.
But you'll need at least 4GB of RAM and a beefy GPU. You'll probably hit that 4GB of RAM wall pretty soon too.


----------



## delshay

You have to remember "VULKAN" is also here. I can't get it to work in DOOM like some other users, but from what I have seen before it locks-up it's very fast.
Vulkan also loaded DOOM much, much quicker too.

The problem seems to be with DOOM, as I can run the Vulkan demo in the SDK.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> I noticed something I didn't think of before.
> Remember when I wrote down my settings for the 8GB CF-5 chips? I sayd: use DDR clock skew advance 150ps, but I didn't work for you.
> No guess what, the best results with 16GB UCCC are with advance 150ps, although this is totally different memory, both in size and in manufacturing.
> So, might this be a CPU-dependent memory setting?
> 
> First thing I did was to set the 4 standard timings and everything else was at auto. DDR clock skew set to normal, ECC disabled and then I ran Prime95 blend. That's how I found about the 768k test to be very responsive to errors. (Maybe it's another test for you PC.)
> 
> For what I can tell: The DIMMs do 3-3-3-8 just fine with the little 7% overclock (214.5MHz), no need to set anything to 4. Sub timings not touched, but stability is very sensitive to tRFC changes. (auto works best)
> - DDR clock skew grants some stability improvememnts, start with this setting.
> 
> Look into Everest/Aida64 to check for the other timings that are set to auto. Try to set leave as many options at auto as possible when switching to manual mode in BIOS.
> - The next things I changed were Read Preamble time and Asyc Latency. Both values have a big influence on stability.
> Aida64 also reads out these values. The auto setting set it to 6.0ns and 9ns, but when setting it to the exact same values in BIOS, the machine doesn't even POST. In case you experience the same, start with 5.5ns and 7ns and work your way from there on. My final settings were 4.5ns and 6ns for 214.5MHz. With every new memory overclock both setings have to be changed.
> 
> - Third setting was Drive strength "normal/weak". "Weak" seems to be best, but for 220MHz "normal" was more stable.
> 
> - DDR Data Driving Strength: start with normal and work your way through the three settings. Some impact on stability.
> 
> So in the end six settings to reach my goal. And a full day for finding this out


Will def look into this. Clock Skew for 8GB you recommended advanced 300ps, so will try 150. I need better cooling, and real TIM. I am out and my cooler is a hack job I barely found and slapped together for free. Need a dedicated s939 cooler. Kinda regret selling the w/c, but it was old and noisy.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Will def look into this. Clock Skew for 8GB you recommended advanced 300ps, so will try 150. I need better cooling, and real TIM. I am out and my cooler is a hack job I barely found and slapped together for free. Need a dedicated s939 cooler. Kinda regret selling the w/c, but it was old and noisy.


Nowadays it's difficult finding a brand new cooler for S939 (at least in Spain). There's always used coolers that would fit, but finding a good (high-end) one it's pretty tricky.

I'm really looking to upgrade my cooling so if anyone knows any cooler (that can be bought new or just a model number) that is high-end(-ish) and can be found easily please tell me


----------



## xzamples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> Best at stock or overclocked? Single or dual core?


Dual core
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> The best for stock clocks would be or an FX-60 (unlocked for overclock, 2.6Ghz stock, 2MB L2 cache and dual-core) or, IIRC there was an Opteron 190 or something like that that was running @ 2.8Ghz (dual core too with 2MB L2 cache too, but locked).
> 
> I used to have my FX-60 for gaming 2 years ago, never played DOTA 2 nor CS:Go, but BF3 was a PITA (well, also keep in mind i was using an HD 7470, that's a HD 6450 overclocked, with a better card it may have been better).
> LoL for example was playable @ 1080p min graphic settings @ about 30-50FPS (depending on things on-screen, etc.)
> 
> My guess is that if you get an dual-core 939 CPU and a decend videocard you should be able to play some of those games (not too sure about Diablo), but not @ 1080p Ultra. Maybe between 1080p low and 1080p medium settings.
> Also, you'll need 4GB of RAM min.
> 
> Also, some pages back, a user posted some videos of him playing Crysis @ 4K with his FX-60 and an 780 Ti (IIRC). You may look at his youtube channel, since he had lots of videos on different hardware too.


you're right, my best bet would be to get an fx-60, throw a good enough cooler on it and overclock it

or

i have an intel pentium e5200, and there are a lot of videos on youtube of people gaming on it, so i should probably do something with that

what do you guys think

fx-60 or e5200 for the project? what would work best for gaming


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xzamples*
> 
> Dual core
> you're right, my best bet would be to get an fx-60, throw a good enough cooler on it and overclock it
> 
> or
> 
> i have an intel pentium e5200, and there are a lot of videos on youtube of people gaming on it, so i should probably do something with that
> 
> what do you guys think
> 
> fx-60 or e5200 for the project? what would work best for gaming


The pentium E5200 should be better, Core architecture destroyed AMD sadly, also you could probably get an E6600 for 10$ and that would be much better than an FX-60 (that was the upgrade i did from my FX-60 to an 3Ghz OCd E6600).

EDIT: Also, E6600 is super easy to overclock, FX-60 not that easy, FX-60s in general are poor overclockers, E6600 are excellent (and cheap!)


----------



## SwishaMane

So, since i need a new cooler AND thermal paste, cause I'm out, I've been doing some digging about what the best pastes are now-a-days... I'm seeing a LOT of pastes coming with little plastic spatulas / spreaders... I thought it was agreed YEARS ago that the pea dot method was the best. ??


----------



## seaFs

It was shown years ago that it doesn't matter at all. Just spread the TIM the way it is convenient for you.
If you just want to exchange TIM, you can do it quick and ugly, but in case you need to reseat the cooler more often, less TIM is better.I use a credit card to spread very few paste on the die, nothing on the heat sink


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> So, since i need a new cooler AND thermal paste, cause I'm out, I've been doing some digging about what the best pastes are now-a-days... I'm seeing a LOT of pastes coming with little plastic spatulas / spreaders... I thought it was agreed YEARS ago that the pea dot method was the best. ??


It's supposed it is, i guess those spatulas are just an extra. I always use pea method and it works perfectly.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> It was shown years ago that it doesn't matter at all. Just spread the TIM the way it is convenient for you.
> If you just want to exchange TIM, you can do it quick and ugly, but in case you need to reseat the cooler more often, less TIM is better.I use a credit card to spread very few paste on the die, nothing on the heat sink


Makes sense.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> It's supposed it is, i guess those spatulas are just an extra. I always use pea method and it works perfectly.


This is my method for non direct contact heatpipe coolers. I won't stress it then. Just curious.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> I always use pea method and it works perfectly.


Depends on the CPU. I spread everything.
Bare die CPU's should ALL be spread. Any missed coverage can create a hotspot that could damage your chip.


----------



## delshay

EDIT DELETE


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Depends on the CPU. I spread everything.
> Bare die CPU's should ALL be spread. Any missed coverage can create a hotspot that could damage your chip.


Of course when running bare die you have to get 100% covered with TIM. But pea method still will do (just use enough, if not those hotspots may appear).
At least all of the laptops (bare die CPUs) i have re-applied TIM always had good contact and spread.


----------



## CrazyMonkey

Is there anyone with a better BIOS (it can be modded) for a DFI LanParty NF4 Ultra D?! Mine got the 6.0 GP version... Looked all around internet for any and could not find it... @Mr.Scott do you got anything that suits me?!


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyMonkey*
> 
> Is there anyone with a better BIOS (it can be modded) for a DFI LanParty NF4 Ultra D?! Mine got the 6.0 GP version... Looked all around internet for any and could not find it... @Mr.Scott do you got anything that suits me?!


Lol. All of them say 6.0 GP.
I have any bios for DFI NF4 you want.
What IC on the ram you're running?, and what do you use the machine for?, and I'll post a bios for you.


----------



## CrazyMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Lol. All of them say 6.0 GP.
> I have any bios for DFI NF4 you want.
> What IC on the ram you're running?, and what do you use the machine for?, and I'll post a bios for you.


The IC is this one:



And I use it for OCing most of the times, but is also used as my OlSchool WinXP machine


----------



## Mr.Scott

Perfect.
Here you go.
Good OC'ing bios for multiple types of ram except BH-5.
If only running 2 sticks of ram put them in the orange slots.









N4D623-3.zip 393k .zip file


----------



## Oj010

Ha, 623-3 is a number that is probably stuck with me till death.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> Ha, 623-3 is a number that is probably stuck with me till death.


Indeed. It is a good all around bios.








When in doubt, back to 623-3.


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Indeed. It is a good all around bios.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When in doubt, back to 623-3.


For sure. All my bests were done with it - 3916 MHz, 290 MHz 2-2-2-5 dual channel, 350 MHz 3-4-4-8 dual channel, etc


----------



## CrazyMonkey

I am getting annoyed now... I created a DOS bootable USB Stick but my mobo does not like it (Tried dos and FreeDOS)... It says invalid partition table... Any clue?

EDIT:

Update:

Well, managed to update with awardwinflash tool (not my fist choice on how to update BIOS but it worked)...


----------



## Mr.Scott

Make sure to clear the CMOS and load optimized defaults before you start tweaking. It is critical on DFI's.


----------



## delshay

This is how a very good FX-60 should behave "Voltage" at 3GHz+. ..see link

http://forums.legitreviews.com/viewtopic.php?t=4133

My ASROCK 939 Motherboard frame/bracket (modified) now looks like the photo below, using 4 bolts (+2).

This improves air efficiency flow around CPU & depending on cooler also improves cooling to VRM & Ram. Expecting very, very small improvement in stability at high clock speed.

Modifications continues today, focus remains on improving cooling.


----------



## delshay

Here another photo which I already posted in this thread.

This is how my 939 Upgraded Asrock Motherboard cooler bracket/frame holder now looks like.

4 bolts (+2).

Improves air efficiency flow around CPU.

EDIT: it's all about cooler bracket/frame.


----------



## mattliston

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> Here another photo which I already posted in this thread.
> 
> This is how my 939 Upgraded Asrock Motherboard Socket now looks like. ...4 bolts (+2)
> Improves air efficiency flow around CPU.


that picture is of an AM3+ motherboard, not a socket 939 motherboard


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattliston*
> 
> that picture is of an AM3+ motherboard, not a socket 939 motherboard


I said "looks like" both photos are examples of what my 939 Asrock "cooler frame/bracket" Motherboard "looks like".

It's all about the CPU "cooler frame/bracket".

EDIT: should have said "frame or Bracket", my fault.


----------



## Oj010

How about instead of just posting random crap from around the net you actually post something useful of your own FOR ONCE.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> How about instead of just posting random crap from around the net you actually post something useful of your own FOR ONCE.


it's not crap. I think only ASROCK 939 Motherboards have the extra 4 holes (6 in total), so how is this crap? It's possible those extra 4 holes are there for water cooling.

again how is this crap information?


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> Let me make this clear.
> 
> no one was aware those extra four holes was there until I posted in this thread a few pages back It was me that spotted this.
> 
> For last time, I think only 939 Motherboard(s) have this.
> 
> So, how is this crap information?


No, I knew about those 4 holes (actually saw them back in 2006 when i first built my PC with the 939NF4G-SATAII) but it is irrelevant, since on a so low end motherboard is just useless.
And again, you are posting the same thing over and over. That is considered spamming. So please, stop.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> No, I knew about those 4 holes (actually saw them back in 2006 when i first built my PC with the 939NF4G-SATAII) but it is irrelevant, since on a so low end motherboard is just useless.
> And again, you are posting the same thing over and over. That is considered spamming. So please, stop.


OK

I knew of holes also, but what I did "not know" is, it does not seem to present on other 939 motherboard(s), this is why I looked into it, as I found it strange it not being on other 939 motherboard(s).

EDIT: "939" Motherboard(s)


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> OK
> 
> I knew of holes also, but what I did "not know" is it does not seem to present on other motherboards, this is why I looked into it, as I found it strange it not being on other motherboards.


It's not that strange, AFAIK, the last "new" motherboards for Socket 939 (like your 785, that was the last one relased years after Socket 939 became old) were launched after AM2 had launched, and since AM2 used 4-holes, then to make coolers compatible with 939 also, they switched to 4-holes retention mechanism too. That's why for example my DFI NF4 Infinity or my DFI LanParty SLI-DR Expert don't have those holes, but my 939NF4G-SATAII does (actually, the OEM stock bracket included with the 939NF4G-SATAII is already using the 4 point bracket, see photo).

939NF4G-SATAII with OEM bracket included (4-holes bracket):
Also, it did look like compatible with Intel 478 stock coolers if you look on each corner you'll see the retentions for those coolers.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> No, I knew about those 4 holes (actually saw them back in 2006 when i first built my PC with the 939NF4G-SATAII) but it is irrelevant, since on a so low end motherboard is just useless.
> And again, you are posting the same thing over and over. That is considered spamming. So please, stop.


All I was trying to do is make user aware of those extra holes, as user(s) that have this motherboard may not be aware & may want to try somekind of modification around those holes like I have. This is how I hack the Zalman 8900 to work on a 939 Motherboard, it's using those four extra holes.

OK leave it at that.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> It's not that strange, AFAIK, the last "new" motherboards for Socket 939 (like your 785, that was the last one relased years after Socket 939 became old) were launched after AM2 had launched, and since AM2 used 4-holes, then to make coolers compatible with 939 also, they switched to 4-holes retention mechanism too. That's why for example my DFI NF4 Infinity or my DFI LanParty SLI-DR Expert don't have those holes, but my 939NF4G-SATAII does (actually, the OEM stock bracket included with the 939NF4G-SATAII is already using the 4 point bracket, see photo).
> 
> 939NF4G-SATAII with OEM bracket included (4-holes bracket):
> Also, it did look like compatible with Intel 478 stock coolers if you look on each corner you'll see the retentions for those coolers.


I don't think AM2 four holes line up with the ASROCK Motherboard(s) 4 holes, I have being checking, not unless I have the wrong brackets/mounting kit. But it does look like you can fit water cooling in those four holes, but this needs to be confirmed..


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> I don't think AM2 four holes line up with the ASROCK Motherboard(s) 4 holes, I have being checking, not unless I have the wrong brackets/mounting kit. But it does look like you can fit water cooling in those four holes, but this needs to be confirmed..


OK.... I'll kick in this once _for the sake of giving correct info only_ in the thread itself and I'm done,

If it has these four holes it's the same pattern as others like it, this covering Sockets AM2, AM2+, AM3 and AM3+.
In short, all AMD boards from at least AM2 and up have the same exact pattern and stock coolers will interchange too, this all being based on using the standard/stock retaining pieces that came with these boards originally.

As for the coolers themselves (Stock coolers) you can even run a Socket 754/939 cooler on an AM3+ board if need be or vice-versa. I have noted some differences with coolers being difficult to set in place or remove in certain instances but so far they've all interchanged and worked, this being noted for example with newer stock coolers being used with older boards such as a standard cooler for an AM3+ chip set in place onto a 939 board.
In fact it's _possible_ to use the newest Wraith coolers with older boards and their retention collars too but I cannot confirm since I don't have a Wraith cooler to try it with for confirming it.

With watercooling any blocks having the four bolt hole pattern will work in the same way.

In any case the easy way to know is simple.... Take a stock backplate from any AM2, AM2+, AM3 or AM3+ board and just hold it up to the back of the board and try to get the four studs in it through the holes to check the alignment. If it goes in place it will work period, no need to wonder from that point on.

Note that for the _really older AMD boards_ with four holes such as Socket A, these holes are of a different pattern and will not interchange in any way with the newer four holed boards nor can coolers be interchanged.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> In fact it's _possible_ to use the newest Wraith coolers with older boards and their retention collars too but I cannot confirm since I don't have a Wraith cooler to try it with for confirming it.


I Have the Wraith cooler, I can check, but i need to find retaining clip, as I used the outer shell inside my main 939 computer (LIT LED AMD). I modified the fan & replaced it with Noctua 92mm fan.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> I have already checked. I have the Zalman 8900 which is FM1/AM3+/AM3/AM2+/AM2. Non of this kit fits or lines up with the 4 holes. This is why I hack the 8900 to work by using the four holes.
> 
> Perhaps INTEL cooler(s) may fit those hole.
> 
> Only water kit seems to be compatible "or" you mount your own modified bracket/hardware using those extra holes
> 
> Be aware, we are talking "4 point bolt though hardware only". ie bolting a cooler by using the 4 holes in each corner. This maybe better than using "two points" to lock the cooler.
> 
> UPDATE: If you use the 4 corner holes, you are going to need special or modified backplate, I checked this also, their don't fit.
> I have found some backplate that do fit, if the 4 holes are used, I have this on order.


It is socket 478 spacing.








You can still find the correct brackets if you look hard enough. I have at least 2 here. I do use them for a waterblock. A couple of the old Koolance blocks work perfectly.
Incidentally, the Thermalright XP90 and XP120 heatsinks use the same type of mounting bracket.
When you mod stuff, you have to think outside the box.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> It is socket 478 spacing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can still find the correct brackets if you look hard enough. I have at least 2 here. I do use them for a waterblock. A couple of the old Koolance blocks work perfectly.
> Incidentally, the Thermalright XP90 and XP120 heatsinks use the same type of mounting bracket.
> When you mod stuff, you have to think outside the box.


Ahhhhhh. That's why my 939NF4G-SATAII had in it's stock 4-pin bracket the 4 Socket 478 cooling mounting points.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> It is socket 478 spacing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can still find the correct brackets if you look hard enough. I have at least 2 here. I do use them for a waterblock. A couple of the old Koolance blocks work perfectly.
> Incidentally, the Thermalright XP90 and XP120 heatsinks use the same type of mounting bracket.
> When you mod stuff, you have to think outside the box.


Thanks, you have been very helpful. Nice info.

I have a Zalman 7000b here, checking if it fits.

UPDATE: wrong fittings here, it says 775 on bracket.


----------



## mcg75

Thread has a temporary lock on it.

When it reopens, one of two things is going to happen.

1. Personal attacks and threats to others users will cease.

Or

2. Any personal attacks or threats to another member will see you removed from the thread.

We are here to learn from each other. It's not hard to keep a conversation respectful like the terms of service dictates.


----------



## mcg75

Now open.


----------



## delshay

Here is a two photo from todays progress on an ASROCK motherboard.

Here you can see Voltage has come down, with little loss in performance from yesterday.



This is the same Processor, it has improved a little also. Highest I have ever gotten this processor to work.



Modified bracket around the CPU socket "works", computer is now more stable at high speed.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> Here is a two photo from todays progress on an ASROCK motherboard.
> 
> Here you can see Voltage has come down, with little loss in performance from yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> This is the same Processor, it has improved a little also. Highest I have ever gotten this processor to work.
> 
> 
> 
> Modified bracket around the CPU socket "works", computer is now more stable at high speed.


Those pics tell me a lot.

Board has pretty good vdroop going on.
Temp is 60c under load. Too hot.
HT link frequency is too high.
Ram is way underclocked.

The temp and HT link frequency is what's holding your OC down.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Those pics tell me a lot.
> 
> Board has pretty good vdroop going on.
> Temp is 60c under load. Too hot.
> HT link frequency is too high.
> Ram is way underclocked.
> 
> The temp and HT link frequency is what's holding your OC down.


Temp under load is the same for my main system, it settles at around 59c-61c. PWM fan take I little while to catch-up. Temperature is going to come down, and improve.

I read somewhere HT can go as high as 2000MHz, Let's see if that is true. I have seen HT over 1300MHz, but I can't remember where. ..My main computer HT operates the same as in (lower speed photo), Ultra stable.

Ram has been drop to 166MHz bus in the BIOS, it can't handle that kind of speed when set to 200MHz in the BIOS, but my main computer memory "4GB" in my main computer can.

I know where the problems are, but it's difficult to fix & a lot of work. I also had to enable the Southbridge fan during this test, normally this is off.

NEW UPDATES:

Three new updates were added yesterday.

Modified "cooler bracket holder" was tested for the first time, VRM Temp did improve.

Northbridge cooler was changed from Noctua to a direct touch heatpipe cooler.

CPU fan had changed from Zalman CNPS8900 (Hacked) back to modified CNPS8700.

THE MOTHERBOARD

Motherboard has new VRM & new Chokes, one of these has improved performance, the other is holding back performance. So it looks like some old components are going back, but new & other components will be changed, I have all the components here.

Remember: this is the same CPU I could not get 2.9GHz out of, look where it is now and this is not my best FX-60, that's yet to come..

The focus today, is to find a clever way to cool VRM & further motherboard components updates.

UPDATE:

The two screenshots I drop the voltage in the BIOS, the higher speed was set to 1.55v and the other was set to 1.5v.

Its the "lower voltage" that improved here, the CPU has never operated at that speed with that voltage, so some modification(s) to the motherboard has changed that.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Those pics tell me a lot.
> 
> Board has pretty good vdroop going on.
> Temp is 60c under load. Too hot.
> HT link frequency is too high.
> Ram is way underclocked.
> 
> The temp and HT link frequency is what's holding your OC down.


Just in case you missed this, this is how a ASROCK 939A785GMH/128M cooler bracket now looks like. it cleans up air flow around the CPU & cools VRM/Ram better. ..Its working very well here.

After checking, "Mandatory" 3 bolts per side on modified bracket/holder must be used. ..six bolts in total is required.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> It is socket 478 spacing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can still find the correct brackets if you look hard enough. I have at least 2 here. I do use them for a waterblock. A couple of the old Koolance blocks work perfectly.
> Incidentally, the Thermalright XP90 and XP120 heatsinks use the same type of mounting bracket.
> When you mod stuff, you have to think outside the box.


I have order some 478 backplate, I have a feeling I may need them in the future. Thanks again for the info.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> Temp under load is the same for my main system, it settles at around 59c-61c. PWM fan take I little while to catch-up. Temperature is going to come down, and improve.


It's pretty much a known fact that in 939 temps over 50c introduce instability. Object is to stay below 50c for best results.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> I read somewhere HT can go as high as 2000MHz, Let's see if that is true. I have seen HT over 1300MHz, but I can't remember where. ..My main computer HT operates the same as in (lower speed photo), Ultra stable.


No. 2000Mhz is ridiculous. I have seen over 1300 also, but rarely. 1000 +/- 100 is a good spot. There is absolutely no benefit gained by clocking the HT link. You only risk more instability by doing that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> Ram has been drop to 166MHz bus in the BIOS, it can't handle that kind of speed when set to 200MHz in the BIOS


Garbage. You need to test your ram then. According to your screen shot, you 're running Corsair PC3500 ram. That ram is made to run @ 233 FSB @ stock voltage and timings. You're running looser timings than stock so you should be able to clock a little higher than 233. If the ram won't run at stock speed, timings, and voltage, then it's no good.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> It's pretty much a known fact that in 939 temps over 50c introduce instability. Object is to stay below 50c for best results.
> No. 2000Mhz is ridiculous. I have seen over 1300 also, but rarely. 1000 +/- 100 is a good spot. There is absolutely no benefit gained by clocking the HT link. You only risk more instability by doing that.
> Garbage. You need to test your ram then. According to your screen shot, you 're running Corsair PC3500 ram. That ram is made to run @ 233 FSB @ stock voltage and timings. You're running looser timings than stock so you should be able to clock a little higher than 233. If the ram won't run at stock speed, timings, and voltage, then it's no good.


Do not pay attention to what the ram says, only the speed & timings are real, That is a edited SPD that I did not correct.

I am working on temperature, but I won't get it below 50c on air at that speed. Even if I did, the Nano & VRM would raise case temperatures and push it over 50c easy.

The only way is to go water cooled or something, to go below 50c.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> Do not pay attention to what the ram says, only the speed & timings are real, That is a edited SPD that I did not correct.


You can edit the SPD all you want but that does not change the manufacturer name or rated speed in which it was originally binned.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> You can edit the SPD all you want but that does not change the manufacturer name or rated speed in which it was originally binned.


I can edit anything in the SPD, I can put my own name in there if I want. ...I can even lock the SPD.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> I can edit anything in the SPD, I can put my own name in there if I want. ...I can even lock the SPD.


Maybe so, but I know you didn't. The only reason you're mentioning it now is because I called you on it.
Pictures speak a thousand words. That is why we ask for them.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Maybe so, but I know you didn't. The only reason you're mentioning it now is because I called you on it.
> Pictures speak a thousand words. That is why we ask for them.


Some posts ago he actually showed a picture of one of his RAM modules' SPD showing his name (instead of brand, etc.).
But again, it may be just a tricked picture (like when they did that "new" A10 Hexa-Core APU picture to troll)

EDIT: Now i can't find it, but i recall seen a screenshot of CPU-Z's SPD tab showing "Delshay Memory" written in the SPDs. Maybe he deleted it.
EDIT 2: Found it: http://www.overclock.net/g/i/2836551/a/1531393/the-socket-939-appreciation-club-and-knowledgebase-official/sort/display_order/


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Maybe so, but I know you didn't. The only reason you're mentioning it now is because I called you on it.
> Pictures speak a thousand words. That is why we ask for them.


I did put my name in the SPD, & in CPU-Z it clearly showed my name, what you saying I can prove you wrong.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> I did put my name in the SPD, & in CPU-Z it clearly showed my name, what you saying I can prove you wrong.


Well, you can change what CPU-Z says with Cheat Engine (just did it in less than 1 minute).
Also you can photoshop a picture. There's multiple ways to change what CPU-Z says.

Here ya go:


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Well, you can change what CPU-Z says with Cheat Engine (just did it in less than 1 minute).
> Also you can photoshop a picture. There's multiple ways to change what CPU-Z says.
> 
> Here ya go:


What about "checksum". ..does that program correct the "checksum"


----------



## Mr.Scott

LOL.
I know that.
You are only fooling yourself.
My point was that you didn't hide anything in the pics you posted, and because I quoted them they will stay there forever.
You messed up.
This charade is over.
Everybody knows that you can photoshop anything.
Nobody will believe a word you say or pic you post now.........ever.
Anything else you post about this now is just a troll for response.
Goodbye.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> What about "checksum". ..does that program correct the "checksum"


What checksum?
I'm saying your screenshot only shows CPU-Z's SPD tab, and what the SPD tab shows can be modified easily, and in multiple ways. Also, when modifying it by using Cheat Engine for example, it does look real (not like when you use photo editing software where you can clearly see the edited part).
And i'm assuming you could have easily used that to make those screenshots, just like i just made mine, except mine showed Cheat Engine as proof that it can be done too.

EDIT: I was going to post basically what Mr.Scott just posted, so no need to repeat it.


----------



## delshay

The uploaded photos/screenshot I used the snipping tool in windows. Test computer has very basic windows installed, with 4 or 5 apps the most installed. but if that what you thing, then leave it at that. nothing else to say.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> The uploaded photos/screenshot I used the snipping tool in windows. Test computer has very basic windows installed, with 4 or 5 apps the most installed. but if that what you thing, then leave it at that. nothing else to say.


No problem, i used the snipping tool included in Windows 7 too


----------



## delshay

if you look at the photo you can see it says 1024 in its name but the real memory is "512MB" There is conflict there, so that proves it is a edited SPD. I have certain memory modules which I use just for testing.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Well, you can change what CPU-Z says with Cheat Engine (just did it in less than 1 minute).
> Also you can photoshop a picture. There's multiple ways to change what CPU-Z says.
> 
> Here ya go:


You did not answer my question. If you edit the SPD timing, the "checksum" must also change.. ..That's at byte 63 in the SPD.

Does this program correct Byte 63?

Checksum is there more or less to check no one is cheating. if someone is cheating by using another program to cover-up something, ie use a paint program, then the only way to catch them is to check the whole SPD & confirm Byte 63 in the SPD is correct.. There no escape here if it is incorrect, it can be verified at this Byte.


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> if you look at the photo you can see it says 1024 in its name but the real memory is "512MB" There is conflict there, so that proves it is a edited SPD. I have certain memory modules which I use just for testing.


Nonsense. The SPD name of Corsair RAM is based on the size of the kit. You're in single channel with a 512 MB module which perfectly ties in with SPD for a 2x512 MB kit.

Here are some of my postings from HWBOT using Corsair RAM.

CMK8GX4M2A2400C16 - 8 GB according to part number, is a kit of 2x4 GB http://img.hwbot.org/u12939/image_id_1666734.jpg
CMK32GX4M2A2400C16 - 32 GB according to part number, is a kit of 2x16 GB http://img.hwbot.org/u12939/image_id_1676577.jpg
CMK16GX4M2A2666C16 - 16 GB according to part number, is a kit of 2x8 GB http://img.hwbot.org/u12939/image_id_1665209.jpg

Etc. You've been caught red handed, stop trying to deny it.


----------



## delshay

if you look carefully you will see "CMX1024-3500C2" & next to it shows Total 512Mb. "That's is not right". If anything correct naming should be "CMX512-3500C2" to match the Total 512Mb. Its clearly edited SPD which I did not change back to its original name.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> CMK32GX4M2A2400C16 - 32 GB according to part number, is a kit of 2x16 GB http://img.hwbot.org/u12939/image_id_1676577.jpg


Woha, you got some crazy arctifacting there...


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> if you look carefully you will see "CMX1024-3500C2" & next to it shows Total 512Mb. "That's is not right". If anything correct naming should be "CMX512-3500C2" to match the Total 512Mb. Its clearly edited SPD which I did not change back to its original name.


No, as you can see from all the screenshots I posts, the Corsair part number is based on the size of the kit. Eg if you have a kit of 4x8 GB the part number will indicate 32 GB even if only one module is installed. You have one 512 MB module installed which has a part number that PERFECTLY aligns with one half of a 2x512 MB kit.


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Woha, you got some crazy arctifacting there...


Yeah, 2,268 MHz on stock cooler









I've been through maybe 80 Pascal cards, that was the best GTX 1070 I've come across.


----------



## delshay

I have already explained the discrepancy & I not going to explain it again. If it was a real PC-3500 then I would have ran the bus at 400MHz in the BIOS, but it can't go that fast.


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> I have already explained the discrepancy & I not going to explain it again. If it was a real PC-3500 then I would have ran the bus at 400MHz in the BIOS, but it can't go that fast.


I can't think of one occasion where you have provided an adequate explanation for anything, but OK.


----------



## delshay

I edit SPD all the time, it is clear I did not change it back. I use it for testing. Changing the name back to it's original name has no effect on performance, so I did not bother as it just a memory module I use for testing purpose only.

But if know one believe me, no sweat, I can live with that.


----------



## seaFs

It's no trick to change the SPD chip. Remeber that I did that with one of my Qimonda 2GB DIMMs to disable ECC. You "just" need a steady hand and a spare DIMM with an EEPROM that has no PSWP. But until now it his highly doubtful that a certain member is capable of this.


----------



## gasparspeed

Well, today i tried overclocking my FX-60 again, but this time on my new LanParty Expert.
Sadly, it did the same thing as with the NF4 Infinity, 3Ghz and no more. Running @ 1.5V (BIOS) - 1.456V (CPU-Z)
Tried 15.5x multi @ 1.525V (BIOS) but I got a black screen after the WinXP logo








I'll try again this time mixing multiplier + FSB but there's not much hope...
Anyways, here's the valid...
http://valid.x86.fr/rl84s6

EDIT: Success!







(it was so unstable that, when trying to get a second validation file, the whole PC froze, but valid is still good







)
http://valid.x86.fr/ew6m1k


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Garbage. You need to test your ram then. According to your screen shot, you 're running Corsair PC3500 ram. That ram is made to run @ 233 FSB @ stock voltage and timings. You're running looser timings than stock so you should be able to clock a little higher than 233. If the ram won't run at stock speed, timings, and voltage, then it's no good.


Garbage.

Absolute false statement & utter rubbish. You don't know what you are talking about.

You have been caught. ...Passing on "False Information".

Correct Information Below.

PC-3500 - 217MHz (433MHz) EDIT

PC-3700 - 233MHz (466MHz)


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> Garbage.
> 
> Absolute false statement & utter rubbish. You don't know what you are talking about.
> 
> You have been caught. ...Passing on "False Information".
> 
> Correct Information Below.
> 
> PC-3500 - 217MHz (434MHz)
> 
> PC-3700 - 233MHz (466MHz)


My mistake. But it really doesn't matter now does it.


----------



## delshay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> My mistake. But it really doesn't matter now does it.


We all make mistake, Including me.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delshay*
> 
> If I lost sensitive data, who's fault would that be?


Yours, for not having it backed up someplace else.
You don't experiment on a system that holds your sensitive data in the first place.
Basic overclocking rule #1.


----------



## AMD SLI guru

man... i haven't seen this threat is YEARS! lol wow... takes me back a few


----------



## gasparspeed

Broke the 3.1Ghz barrier!






















http://valid.x86.fr/pe91ii

Had to use 1.5 VID from BIOS + 104.8% VID increase (with the special VID control from DFI).
Somehow running from the BIOS, even 1.55V, didn't got enough stability to even reach the WinXP logo, but using the special VID control did the trick.
Also had to use an extra 120mm fan on the heatsink since it was starting to get toasty.

Also, does anyone know what the "VID StartUp Value" is? What is the difference between that StartUp VID and the actual VID you run manually?


----------



## Oj010

Mr.Scott, I only have Tmod's NF4 BIOS collection. Would you be able to share all of them with me?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Well, today i tried overclocking my FX-60 again, but this time on my new LanParty Expert.
> Sadly, it did the same thing as with the NF4 Infinity, 3Ghz and no more. Running @ 1.5V (BIOS) - 1.456V (CPU-Z)
> Tried 15.5x multi @ 1.525V (BIOS) but I got a black screen after the WinXP logo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll try again this time mixing multiplier + FSB but there's not much hope...
> Anyways, here's the valid...
> http://valid.x86.fr/rl84s6
> 
> EDIT: Success!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (it was so unstable that, when trying to get a second validation file, the whole PC froze, but valid is still good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> http://valid.x86.fr/ew6m1k


My memory is not what it use to be so correct me if wrong guys but the FX series was nothing more than marketing and were not even binned. Thinking because you have an FX you will achieve better OC performance is a misnomer. The best overclocking batches had JH-E6/JH9-E6 stepping if memory serves. I know the skews are listed in this thread somewhere.

Getting 3Ghz on any 939 is an achievement so good job and rep. Now make it stable.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> My memory is not what it use to be so correct me if wrong guys but the FX series was nothing more than marketing and were not even binned. Thinking because you have an FX you will achieve better OC performance is a misnomer. The best overclocking batches had JH-E6/JH9-E6 stepping if memory serves. I know the skews are listed in this thread somewhere.
> 
> Getting 3Ghz on any 939 is an achievement so good job and rep. Now make it stable.


Yes, FX series AFAIK isn't binned (and FX-60 actually are poor overclockers too, even being JH-E6 stepping).
I personally got this chip for very cheap and i was like "well, that is a nice upgrade to my X2 4200+ and it's unlocked too" since at the time i was using my 939 machine as main PC and well, let's just say BF3 and my X2 4200+ @ Stock weren't good friends









Got also 3.1Ghz and this last run (http://valid.x86.fr/pe91ii) and it was more stable than the 3.075Ghz sumbission








But still, probably won't be not even Prime95/benchmark stable (too much voltage needed for my mediocre air-cooling







).
I'll be looking to get some decent clock stable 24/7-ish to bench. I hope i can get 2.9Ghz or so.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> My memory is not what it use to be so correct me if wrong guys but the FX series was nothing more than marketing and were not even binned. Thinking because you have an FX you will achieve better OC performance is a misnomer. The best overclocking batches had JH-E6/JH9-E6 stepping if memory serves. I know the skews are listed in this thread somewhere.
> 
> Getting 3Ghz on any 939 is an achievement so good job and rep. Now make it stable.


Most chips with that batch/spec were good on air or plain water for at least 3.0 compared to older revisions, however older chips are capable and even still hold some of the records out there.

I did these not long ago, proving that an E4 chip is plenty capable with the right setup:

http://valid.x86.fr/z73h0h

And I also did these runs:


----------



## Hueristic

If only there had been a quad, very nice single core runs! But everyone knows you use magic.


----------



## zila

Kryton is a very skilled old skool over clocker.


----------



## CrazyMonkey

Awesome result @Kryton... Rep


----------



## Kryton

Thanks guys - I have a few others I need to test when I have a chance to do it.


----------



## CrazyMonkey

And it arrived... It works apparently... It was bought as not working/for spares as the person was basically clearing the ex boyfriend stuff out the house... And it was selling it as an ASUS board...

SO beautiful...


----------



## pez

Definitely a wallhanger







.


----------



## gasparspeed

OMG @CrazyMonkey, that is such a cool looking board.
As pez said, that would be so cool to have on a wall.


----------



## CrazyMonkey

I think I am going to build it as my main HTPC on my living room, but make it visible... An Opty 170 and 4GB Ram should do the trick!


----------



## SwishaMane

yes! Another s939 HTPC, welcome to luxury.









That is a super nice looking board. You should test 8GB in her.


----------



## mattliston

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyMonkey*
> 
> I think I am going to build it as my main HTPC on my living room, but make it visible... An Opty 170 and 4GB Ram should do the trick!


DO WORK!

maybe an open bench with an acrylic cover to keep curious hands away?


----------



## rhkcommander959

@ CrazyMonkey - a Coffee table with glass top and lights that are powered off the 12V would look sweet


----------



## Oj010

Is it just me, or is the nippiest platform you can possibly have (silly things such as opening My Computer, Start Menu, etc) an Athlon64 with BH-5 RAM on Windows XP? Even an i7-6950X doesn't feel as nippy regardless of OS.


----------



## CrazyMonkey

Yesterday I was trying to install windows 7 x64 but was having an error when loading the install menu, tried XP as well and when it is loading USB drivers for the setup it stalls... I think there is a issue with the board. I need to find if there is any BIOS available anywere to update it.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> Is it just me, or is the nippiest platform you can possibly have (silly things such as opening My Computer, Start Menu, etc) an Athlon64 with BH-5 RAM on Windows XP? Even an i7-6950X doesn't feel as nippy regardless of OS.


This so much.
The first time i had my XMS Pro @ 2-2-2-5 200Mhz 1T (upgrading from No-Name 4GB @ 333Mhz 3-4-4-8 2T) it booted in seconds (even on an old Seagate SATAI) and it was very fast in WinXP. It felt faster than my Q9300 @ 3Ghz and DDR2 and my Phenom II X4 965.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> Is it just me, or is the nippiest platform you can possibly have (silly things such as opening My Computer, Start Menu, etc) an Athlon64 with BH-5 RAM on Windows XP? Even an i7-6950X doesn't feel as nippy regardless of OS.


I don't think it's just you.

I see the same thing with my FX rigs vs my I 7's , bouncing around in the desktop the FX 8 core makes the blue team chips ( 3770k 2600k and 4970K) I have look ham-fisted and lethargic even when equipped with the same ram , ssd etc.

I have a new laptop with a mobile 6700 , SSD and DDR 4, on windows 10 that has definitely improved upon my older i7's in this regard , still testing it out.


----------



## SwishaMane

Whats the definition of "nippy" here? Snappy, quickly responsive?

EDIT: Just scored my new cooler. Thermalright Ultra 120. $26 SHIPPED, looks brand spanking new... WASSUP!? Came with the proper s939 mounting too! Thats why I went for it. Just need some good paste now.


----------



## seaFs

So we are making the same duel that was fought out years ago? TrU120 vs IFX14?







I'm curious about your temps. Delidded CPU?


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Whats the definition of "nippy" here? Snappy, quickly responsive?
> 
> EDIT: Just scored my new cooler. Thermalright Ultra 120. $26 SHIPPED, looks brand spanking new... WASSUP!? Came with the proper s939 mounting too! Thats why I went for it. Just need some good paste now.


When you have it mounted and running could you please post your temperatures? I was actually considering that same cooler to upgrade mine, but those are difficult to find here...

Also, got a Scythe Ninja-PLUS, what should be better, the Ultra 120 or the Ninja-PLUS (taking in consideration I would be using the using the same 120mm fan in both)?


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> So we are making the same duel that was fought out years ago? TrU120 vs IFX14?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm curious about your temps. Delidded CPU?


I just won the auction on it earlier today, so won't have it for awhile. I just need something better than this ghetto rigged Corsair cheapo I found in a box. But yeah, lets do it. Opty 185 @ 3ghz, 1.40vCore, lidded. I'm not risking my chip to de-lid, YOU'RE NUTZ!









Want to go dual AP15s, but only comes with one fan mount set, so I will be single fan for awhile. We know these chips are heat generating machines, so I'm not expecting the world from a new cooler, just some extra style, and hoping to stay under 50C load.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> When you have it mounted and running could you please post your temperatures? I was actually considering that same cooler to upgrade mine, but those are difficult to find here...
> 
> Also, got a Scythe Ninja-PLUS, what should be better, the Ultra 120 or the Ninja-PLUS (taking in consideration I would be using the using the same 120mm fan in both)?


I'll gladly post some temps, a before and after with my junk current cooler and this beauty.


----------



## Oj010

This thread is so peaceful lately. I wonder where Mr.Scott is


----------



## mattliston

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Whats the definition of "nippy" here? Snappy, quickly responsive?
> 
> EDIT: Just scored my new cooler. Thermalright Ultra 120. $26 SHIPPED, looks brand spanking new... WASSUP!? Came with the proper s939 mounting too! Thats why I went for it. Just need some good paste now.


I jsut threw on some artic silver 5 onto my 1035t and fx 4300, and both are running at least 10*C cooler at full load in 20*C ambient compared to some cheap stuff I found at bestbuy or radioshack years back.

initial temp drop was only 2-3*C but a few power cycles of stability testing for 30 minutes to an hour, then full cool down off for 30-45 minutes really improved the results.

a word of warning. I pulled the 1035T out of the socket on the MSI 890FXA-GD70 on accident. AS5 has a freakin DEATH GRIP once its been cycled a few times


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> This thread is so peaceful lately. I wonder where Mr.Scott is


lol. You're a funny guy.


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> lol. You're a funny guy.


I actually wanted to know where you are as I asked you something a day or two back


----------



## SwishaMane

Went with Noctua NT‑H1, less than $7 shipped on Newegg, heard good things about it. Good for 15 applications (yeah right, like 6 for me, lol)









Hopefully its pretty fluid and makes an easy pea dot.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Went with Noctua NT‑H1, less than $7 shipped on Newegg, heard good things about it. Good for 15 applications (yeah right, like 6 for me, lol)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully its pretty fluid and makes an easy pea dot.


That's a good choice. I think you won't have any problems with it. I personally use MX-4 (but that's because i bought the biggest MX-4 kit i could)


----------



## SwishaMane

I think I tried MX-3 in the past, but it was EXTREMELY hard to get out, and didn't spread correctly. It was like a clay. Maybe defective? IDK, it was BAD.

Can't wait to get proper cooling in this HTPC, I just feel blessed to get the cooler, considering it was the only one that had the s939 bracket included. All the rest were 775.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> I think I tried MX-3 in the past, but it was EXTREMELY hard to get out, and didn't spread correctly. It was like a clay. Maybe defective? IDK, it was BAD.
> 
> Can't wait to get proper cooling in this HTPC, I just feel blessed to get the cooler, considering it was the only one that had the s939 bracket included. All the rest were 775.


Hm, with MX-4 i don't have any spread problems, it looks like standard TIM to me, maybe a little more dense (and sticky too) but still good TIM.
Anyways NT-H1 is good too.


----------



## SoloCamo

I use gelid gc extreme (preferred) and noctuna nt-h1 where cooling is a priority. The rest I just use AS5


----------



## rhkcommander959

I only use as5 on things I don't care too much about. I have some gelid and noctua, and some shin etsu but idk where all of that falls on the charts nowadays


----------



## gasparspeed

@rhkcommander959

Wait, Shin Etsu TIM is still a thing?
Haven't seen any of it for sale in years...


----------



## Kryton

Been using AS5 Ceramique on just about everything I've been running including stuff ran at sub-zero temps, I like it because it's cheap yet effective.
Did sub-zero runs with my 148 hitting 3.5+ using it so I know it works.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> I actually wanted to know where you are as I asked you something a day or two back


Yes, I can share. I will message you a link to my cloud after the files are uploaded.


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Yes, I can share. I will message you a link to my cloud after the files are uploaded.


Awesome thanks, I appreciate it


----------



## rhkcommander959

Not sure if it is still a thing, I bought several syringes of it.

Actually, I googled it and yes, it is still around. Apparently they are Japan's largest chemical company
https://www.amazon.com/MASSCOOL-Shin-Etsu-Interface-Material-G751/dp/B000S35TB4

I haven't looked at any recent TIM comparison charts, but it spanked stock TIM every time, and im sure it was a few-several degrees better than AS5. I also have some IC7 diamond, prolimatech pk-2 &3, and a couple others. Never tried liquid metal pastes...

I will have to check, I think I got a bunch of AS ceramique and thermal adhesive when danger den went under


----------



## mattliston

I didnt know there were multiple variants of artic silver 5

my tube is dark gray with a black label, it comes out like gray goop, you have to push hard and smear it into place, as it recommends to "grind" the paste into both sides of the faces. so I pushed some on teh chip, and some onto my water cooler directly. so far thermal performance is fantastic. even with an extra 0.1 volts over factory, I idle like 3*C over ambient with my radiator fans on 30%


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattliston*
> 
> I didnt know there were multiple variants of artic silver 5


There aren't.
There are many different tim's made by Arctic though. Silver 5 is one of them.


----------



## SwishaMane

Got the Ultra 120 in Saturday, and it looks AMAZING. Looks used, but kindly. A friend of mine is concerned about the all aluminum design, but I couldn't persuade him into realizing its a top rated cooler. Also found out this cooler has no fan mounting hardware, which i thought the listing included, but I guess not. Rubber bands will work.







Should I do push/pull? I have plenty of AP-15s to spare... Any benefit from two fans?


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Got the Ultra 120 in Saturday, and it looks AMAZING. Looks used, but kindly. A friend of mine is concerned about the all aluminum design, but I couldn't persuade him into realizing its a top rated cooler. Also found out this cooler has no fan mounting hardware, which i thought the listing included, but I guess not. Rubber bands will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should I do push/pull? I have plenty of AP-15s to spare... Any benefit from two fans?


Well, at least on my heatsink, 2 92mm 5200RPM Deltas ran 2ºC cooler than only one of those Deltas on push.
But don't know the difference in your case, since different case air-flow, heatsink and fans


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Well, at least on my heatsink, 2 92mm 5200RPM Deltas ran 2ºC cooler than only one of those Deltas on push.
> But don't know the difference in your case, since different case air-flow, heatsink and fans


My HTPC needs to be silent, so two crazy loud Delta's aint the way to go! lol I do however have a few nicer 92mm Deltas pulled from an old Dell XPS machine that are beasts.

I'll just do a quick comparison test once the cooler is ready. Probably run stock CPU freq., and Prime95 it for 10 minutes flat, switch coolers, and do it again. Add 2nd fan, DO IT AGAIN...


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> My HTPC needs to be silent, so two crazy loud Delta's aint the way to go! lol I do however have a few nicer 92mm Deltas pulled from an old Dell XPS machine that are beasts.
> 
> I'll just do a quick comparison test once the cooler is ready. Probably run stock CPU freq., and Prime95 it for 10 minutes flat, switch coolers, and do it again. Add 2nd fan, DO IT AGAIN...


Yeah, testing yourself is the best way. Also, i was recommending you using your fans, not Deltas







For sure they kick ass, but oh boy, they are even louder than my GTX 480 reference @ 100% (that also uses a Delta in it's blower







)


----------



## SwishaMane

So the Noctua paste came in today. I just did quick temp test, and am in the middle of the new cooler test. NOT looking as good as I hoped. I think I am lacking intake.

In fact, there is a zero degree difference in the coolers so far. Funny, considering the cheapo was ghetto mounted with random hardware I could find. UGH, not good. AND I am at stock frq, pushing 60C on core 0...

EDIT: Actually, 1 degree difference on hottest core. Will be adding intake to front of case. I have absolutely zero intake fans on this machine. The front of this Antec 902 is a wide open mesh grille, I thought enough air was getting in. Since taking watercooling out, apparently no supporting air is getting in. Will re-do test tomorrow after adding two intakes to front.









Results will shortly follow.

Rubberbands aren't going to cut it for the fan mout, the heatsink is cutting through them, LOL. UGH.


----------



## rhkcommander959

Zip ties swish, the heads are big enough to keep from going through the fan-screw holes, but the rest will fit between the fins and heat pipes


----------



## seaFs

Lap - delid - win. That's the way to go


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Lap - delid - win. That's the way to go


Not hattenin... lol


----------



## Aleslammer

@SwishaMane

Check the True to see if the block is flat, the one I have wasn't all that great till I lapped it.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aleslammer*
> 
> @SwishaMane
> 
> Check the True to see if the block is flat, the one I have wasn't all that great till I lapped it.


Looked really good, but never did actually check it for flatness. Maybe next time I remove it.

I am completely lacking intake. All my fans are exhaust. This is something I've overlooked since removing the water cooling. I was lazy last night and didnt add a fan, will be doing this today undoubtedly. Thats probably the major factor. Gonna try and get two fans in front for major airflow.


----------



## Hueristic

Love my true, still have it on my 1605T. It really is overkill for a dual core though.


----------



## seaFs

Hell yeah, my brother gives me his broken PC, X2 4400+, A8N SLI deluxe (?), 4GB noname RAM. Another X2 for more painful overclocking. Maybe it has a better IMC than my one. But maybe it's total garbage, because this chip has never seen any overclock.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> Love my true, still have it on my 1605T. It really is overkill for a dual core though.


I've got a huge Phanteks cooler on my Pentium Haswell chip







. But I can't say I'm disappointed to see a chip run at 60C max when clocked to 4.5GHz.


----------



## SwishaMane

So added an AP-15 intake to front of my case. At 3Ghz, I'm topping 58-59C now, this is about 1.44v. I can't get it better. Need to figure out how to get all my fans full speed. The CPU fan is the only one going 100%, all the rest are auto controlled at like 50%.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> So added an AP-15 intake to front of my case. At 3Ghz, I'm topping 58-59C now, this is about 1.44v. I can't get it better. Need to figure out how to get all my fans full speed. The CPU fan is the only one going 100%, all the rest are auto controlled at like 50%.


Do you have them plugged to the motherboard?
I have never seen a A8N32-SLI Deluxe BIOS, but if it's similar to other ASUS' BIOS from those years there should be fan speed control options on the Hardware Monitor


----------



## fat4l

Hi









See my old FX-60, at 3045MHz, 1.55V set in bios, 100% stable on air (Thermalright Cooler), delided!


----------



## seaFs

8200+? This is funny


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Do you have them plugged to the motherboard?
> I have never seen a A8N32-SLI Deluxe BIOS, but if it's similar to other ASUS' BIOS from those years there should be fan speed control options on the Hardware Monitor


No fan control, just turn all to 100% or some Q-Control that auto controls them. So i disabled it for 100% fan speed on everything. Temps are a little better, but not really great. Something is wrong.


----------



## ShrimpBrime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Do you have them plugged to the motherboard?
> I have never seen a A8N32-SLI Deluxe BIOS, but if it's similar to other ASUS' BIOS from those years there should be fan speed control options on the Hardware Monitor
> 
> 
> 
> No fan control, just turn all to 100% or some Q-Control that auto controls them. So i disabled it for 100% fan speed on everything. Temps are a little better, but not really great. Something is wrong.
Click to expand...

Time for a reseat on that cooler. It's the only way to go.

Also a quick de-lid and re-apply the thermal paste under that IHS plate couldn't hurt. That paste is probably old and done for.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShrimpBrime*
> 
> Time for a reseat on that cooler. It's the only way to go.
> 
> Also a quick de-lid and re-apply the thermal paste under that IHS plate couldn't hurt. That paste is probably old and done for.


Talking about reseats, i just installed my Scythe Ninja-PLUS on my FX-60! And dayum that thing has a rough copper base, you can clearly see wave-like shapes on in.
It wasn't that difficult as I was thinking it would be, right now it's running PASSIVE @ 35ºC Idle (and 45-50ºC while using CPU-Z Stress test)


----------



## ShrimpBrime

FX-60 is one of the few processors I never got my hands on. Dang chips dont start overclocking until the 1.60v range. Gets nice and toasty at 1.65v and up though.

Whatcha clocked up to?


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShrimpBrime*
> 
> Time for a reseat on that cooler. It's the only way to go.
> 
> Also a quick de-lid and re-apply the thermal paste under that IHS plate couldn't hurt. That paste is probably old and done for.


I was thinking about the paste under the IHS, but I'm too worried about damaging my chip to de-lid... scares the crap out of me to think of (possibly) destroying my CPU.


----------



## ShrimpBrime

It would be a rare case you killed the cpu. Just cut the glue around the edges. peel the plate off with a thumb nail. scrape remaining glue from PCB and plate. Can re-glue or not. Permatex ultra black is pretty close to the stock glue. Clamp it down in the socket and put your heat sink on. In 24 hours the glue will be cured. The TIM MUST be spread on the core die under the plate. Do not use a dot.

It's pretty easy and painless. I've done literally dozens of chips and that does include a dozen soldered chips as well.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShrimpBrime*
> 
> It would be a rare case you killed the cpu. Just cut the glue around the edges. peel the plate off with a thumb nail. scrape remaining glue from PCB and plate. Can re-glue or not. Permatex ultra black is pretty close to the stock glue. Clamp it down in the socket and put your heat sink on. In 24 hours the glue will be cured. The TIM MUST be spread on the core die under the plate. Do not use a dot.
> 
> It's pretty easy and painless. I've done literally dozens of chips and that does include a dozen soldered chips as well.


I delided an opty 180 years ago (it had a dead core, if you used a BIOS that only recognized single cores, it worked fine, a BIOS that recognized dual cores wouldn't post) and I killed it permanently... lol

I'll have to think about it.


----------



## rhkcommander959

sounds like it was already dying. Unless you hit a transistor or gouge deep into the pcb its not bad. Just dont use a thick blade, I used a dollar store razer, just melted part of the plastic to make a handle.


----------



## seaFs

Thats the CPU of my brothers PC.

CCBWE 0537RPAW

Never heard of an RPAW stepping. Any ideas on how far this thing might go?
In a quick and dirty test it did 233x11 @ 1.4V, but no boot with the 273x11 settings of my delidded beauty.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Thats the CPU of my brothers PC.
> 
> CCBWE 0537RPAW
> 
> Never heard of an RPAW stepping. Any ideas on how far this thing might go?
> In a quick and dirty test it did 233x11 @ 1.4V, but no boot with the 273x11 settings of my delidded beauty.


Wait that doesn't says "X2". Is it a dual core? Because from that pic it looks like a 4400+ Single Core (and AFAIK the fastest single core 64 is a 4000+ for socket 939 right?)
That could be a nice find.


----------



## seaFs

Nope, that's a true Toledo, look at the serial number. ADA4400DAA6CD
It's also a pretty old one, produced in week 37, 2005, which was mid September 2005.


----------



## toughacton

The early batches of x2s often didn't have the x2 on the CPU. I know i had a 4800 like that. Also since its an older toledo, i would say you can expect 2.7 or 2.8 before you really need more volts. I finally got my setup with 8GBs back up to 3GHZ stable. Turns out the PSU I was using was going bad (or just too weak) and my GPU was getting voltage starved. I'll get some pics up later when I'm home. It sure is nice having this extra RAM.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> It sure is nice having this extra RAM.


Sure is, isn't it?


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Thats the CPU of my brothers PC.
> 
> CCBWE 0537RPAW
> 
> Never heard of an RPAW stepping. Any ideas on how far this thing might go?
> In a quick and dirty test it did 233x11 @ 1.4V, but no boot with the 273x11 settings of my delidded beauty.


The chip's stepping is actually CCBWE.
Stepping with these is always before the chip's date, RPAW I believe is related to the production batch it came from.


----------



## seaFs

Thanks for clarification








I know that the five letters may also refer to the memorcy controller version. And somewhere around the internet is a cypher for the production batches, but I can't find it anymore. Do you have any information about this?
In the end I'm afraid this chip doesn't seem to be any special, if average at all.


----------



## SwishaMane

If it hasn't been OC'd ever, then it may be pretty nice. But maybe degraded after all the years of use. Hit or miss, good luck.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Thanks for clarification
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that the five letters may also refer to the memorcy controller version. And somewhere around the internet is a cypher for the production batches, but I can't find it anymore. Do you have any information about this?
> In the end I'm afraid this chip doesn't seem to be any special, if average at all.


I believe the chip's stepping affects the memory controller version, RPAW if I'm right relates only to the producton batch of the chip itself along with the serial. You can certaily get more batch IDs from letters than from numerals since there are only 10 numerical characters but there are 26 letter characters equaling more possible combinations for that purpose.

However..... I don't have any info myself and that's why I cannot just come out and say that's what it is.









I have one of those and it's not a good clocker either - In fact from what I've seen the 4400's don't appear to be great clockers overall but still useful chips.


----------



## toughacton

Here you go folks







Nice and stable. Wish i could get 1T to work at this speed, but it refuses to run at anything beyond 200Mhz, so its either 2.8Ghz and 1T or 3Ghz and 2T.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Thats the CPU of my brothers PC.
> 
> CCBWE 0537RPAW
> 
> Never heard of an RPAW stepping. Any ideas on how far this thing might go?
> In a quick and dirty test it did 233x11 @ 1.4V, but no boot with the 273x11 settings of my delidded beauty.


The ADA version is a 110w processor. Average OC is around 2700-2800 @ 1.5v
The ADV version is a 89w processor. That is the one to look for. Average OC is around 3000 @ 1.5v.


----------



## seaFs

Oh man, this chip is a very baaad clocker. It doesn't even reach 2.6GHz @ 1.58V. I also delidded it within 20 minutes of headaches, just to see it was worthless.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Oh man, this chip is a very baaad clocker. It doesn't even reach 2.6GHz @ 1.58V. I also delidded it within 20 minutes of headaches, just to see it was worthless.


What a dud.


----------



## lexer

I love s939 here is my two babies

A64 3800+ delid with Gelid Extreme and TCCD memory 24/7




Opteron 185 + Winbond BH5


----------



## zila

Damned nice Opty Lex.


----------



## mllrkllr88

Any of you 939 guys want to help and submit a DDR1 for team OCN?? I submitted 351MHz but we badly need 2 more good submissions. If you don't have an OC eSports account or even HWBOT, its easy to join and start benching for OCN.

please help the team if you can...OCN NEEDS YOUR DDR1









http://oc-esports.io/#!/round/team_cup_2016_sc4/3017/memory_clock_ddr1


----------



## lexer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mllrkllr88*
> 
> Any of you 939 guys want to help and submit a DDR1 for team OCN?? I submitted 351MHz but we badly need 2 more good submissions. If you don't have an OC eSports account or even HWBOT, its easy to join and start benching for OCN.
> 
> please help the team if you can...OCN NEEDS YOUR DDR1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://oc-esports.io/#!/round/team_cup_2016_sc4/3017/memory_clock_ddr1


I have a pair of OCZ Platinium TCCD at the moment i managed to get 600mhz stable .... this weekend i will try to push them a little harder.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mllrkllr88*
> 
> Any of you 939 guys want to help and submit a DDR1 for team OCN?? I submitted 351MHz but we badly need 2 more good submissions. If you don't have an OC eSports account or even HWBOT, its easy to join and start benching for OCN.
> 
> please help the team if you can...OCN NEEDS YOUR DDR1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://oc-esports.io/#!/round/team_cup_2016_sc4/3017/memory_clock_ddr1


Uo, that looks like a nice comp, i may jump in, IIRC i've got a couple of sticks that can do 300Mhz (haven't really tried to push them very much).
This weekend i'll definitely give it a try









EDIT: Oh, that ends in 2 days and I won't be able to use my S939 PC until Weekend so i guess i'm out


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mllrkllr88*
> 
> Any of you 939 guys want to help and submit a DDR1 for team OCN?? I submitted 351MHz but we badly need 2 more good submissions. If you don't have an OC eSports account or even HWBOT, its easy to join and start benching for OCN.
> 
> please help the team if you can...OCN NEEDS YOUR DDR1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://oc-esports.io/#!/round/team_cup_2016_sc4/3017/memory_clock_ddr1


280 mhz sub with my 754 rig. will try to improve it


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> I have a pair of OCZ Platinium TCCD at the moment i managed to get 600mhz stable .... this weekend i will try to push them a little harder.


I don't think so. DDR600 yes, 600MHz not a chance in hell.

WR for DDR1 is 447.8 MHz
That's DDR895


----------



## lexer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> I don't think so. DDR600 yes, 600MHz not a chance in hell.
> 
> WR for DDR1 is 447.8 MHz
> That's DDR895


I know i know ahahah 600mhz effective ... but i think maybe DDR640-660 is possible


----------



## mllrkllr88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> 280 mhz sub with my 754 rig. will try to improve it


nice work man, thats definitely helpful!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> WR for DDR1 is 447.8 MHz


I just saw your 412, WOW!! ...#13 in world, too bad your not on our side.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mllrkllr88*
> 
> too bad your not on our side.


I say that every time I see your subs. You are a very good bencher.
Much respect.


----------



## mllrkllr88

Wow thank you Mr. Scott, that really means alot coming from a living legend like you! As you might expect, I am devoted to OCN...ive been on the team since day one. I hope to get into legacy more and slowly build a nice collection so I can make an attempt at giving you guys some competition.


----------



## lexer

If someone can give some tips with TCCD overclocking ... I can contribute something to the cause


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mllrkllr88*
> 
> Wow thank you Mr. Scott, that really means alot coming from a living legend like you! As you might expect, I am devoted to OCN...ive been on the team since day one. I hope to get into legacy more and slowly build a nice collection so I can make an attempt at giving you guys some competition.


Lol. I'm far from a legend, but thank you.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> If someone can give some tips with TCCD overclocking ... I can contribute something to the cause


I really don't have a lot of experience with them but the patriot set I have doesn't seem to like more than about 2.75 volts.

In the case of my msi boards I bump up the NF4 and cpu volts , lower ht and cpu multipliers, loosen timings and set CR to 2 in bios .

Then chase higher clocks using the clock gen utility in windows. I usually validate at stock speeds first , leaving the browser window open as well as paint for capturing the screenshot.

Sometimes opening those programs at the max OC will cause my rig to crash , but if they are already open it seems to give me a chance at higher OC's . Also if you get a screen capture first and it happens to crash trying to validate, sometimes firefox will reopen automatically when you reboot , it will ask if you want to restore session, sometimes you are lucky enough that the validation went through before the crash and it will show up if you choose restore rather than start new session.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> If someone can give some tips with TCCD overclocking ... I can contribute something to the cause biggrin.gif


Use a single stick.
3-7-7-15 2T @ 3.0v

CPU multi = 6
Memory divider = highest positive divider available
HT multi = 3
CPU voltage = 1.4v
NB voltage = max available
Keep the CPU as close to stock speed as you can.
Boot at 250 FSB and bump with clockgen.

Good luck.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mllrkllr88*
> 
> Wow thank you Mr. Scott, that really means alot coming from a living legend like you! As you might expect, I am devoted to OCN...ive been on the team since day one. I hope to get into legacy more and slowly build a nice collection so I can make an attempt at giving you guys some competition.
> 
> 
> 
> Lol. I'm far from a legend, but thank you.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> If someone can give some tips with TCCD overclocking ... I can contribute something to the cause biggrin.gif
> 
> 
> 
> 3-7-7-15 2T @ 3.0v
> 
> CPU multi = 6
> Memory divider = 250
> HT multi = 3
> CPU voltage = 1.4v
> NB voltage = max supported
> Keep the CPU as close to stock speed as you can.
> Boot at 250 FSB and bump with clockgen.
> 
> Good luck.
Click to expand...

Modest , knowledgeable, and has helpful as you are competitive - a class act


----------



## Mr.Scott

Peaceful co-existence is never a bad thing between clubs.
We all play the same game. It's mostly up to the hardware. Skills and tweaks you can learn, but not if somebody doesn't put you on the right path.


----------



## ShrimpBrime

This is a great club here!! If ever needed a place to go, You'd might find me on this team









Scotty's A-ok! I've seen this guy help literally hundreds of people. It's unbelievable. And Living Legends do exist. I personally think it's a fitting title.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShrimpBrime*
> 
> This is a great club here!! If ever needed a place to go, You'd might find me on this team
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Scotty's A-ok! I've seen this guy help literally hundreds of people. It's unbelievable. And Living Legends do exist. I personally think it's a fitting title.


Yes, he's been around the block a few times and has a great deal of knowlege - He's probrably forgotten more than I'll ever know.

I'll also say even though some may not "Like" what he has to say, understand he's not jerking anyone's chain. I've never known him to do that and he's more or less a "Shoot straight from the hip" kind of guy. He will tell you what you need to know, not what you want to hear.


----------



## lexer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Use a single stick.
> 3-7-7-15 2T @ 3.0v
> 
> CPU multi = 6
> Memory divider = highest positive divider available
> HT multi = 3
> CPU voltage = 1.4v
> NB voltage = max available
> Keep the CPU as close to stock speed as you can.
> Boot at 250 FSB and bump with clockgen.
> 
> Good luck.


Ty bro ... I will try and report later


----------



## zila

I am very fortunate in that I have known Scottie for many years and call him my friend. I can't even begin to tell you how many times he has helped me. I love watching him and his incredibly skillful team bench. Unbelievable stuff.


----------



## Mr.Scott

You guys can stop anytime. lol
Quote:


> Rocco Siffredi of O.C


This made me LOL for a long time. Thanks to who ever sent this.


----------



## lexer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> You guys can stop anytime. lol
> This made me LOL for a long time. Thanks to who ever sent this.


----------



## ShrimpBrime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> I am very fortunate in that I have known Scottie for many years and call him my friend. I can't even begin to tell you how many times he has helped me. I love watching him and his incredibly skillful team bench. Unbelievable stuff.


Same goes out to you Zilla. You've been there for encouragement and lessens for quite a few people too. Good to see you BTW. Hope all is good!!


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> You guys can stop anytime. lol


----------



## zila

Great to see ya Shrimp. Keep benching your stuff pal.......I am watching and cheering you on as always.


----------



## ShrimpBrime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Great to see ya Shrimp. Keep benching your stuff pal.......I am watching and cheering you on as always.


Took a temporary leave on the bench table for now. Once I get my employment back down to only one job, I'll utilize the spare time to get back on that bench, ETA? Not sure.....


----------



## zila

Gotcha. You just take care of that beautiful family of yours.


----------



## ShrimpBrime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Gotcha. You just take care of that beautiful family of yours.


Will do brother! Hopefully all is good by you! I should give you a call sometime. We need to do this beer at lunch time deal!


----------



## Kryton

Getting ready to try something rather crazy yet it's possible I may be able to pull off a miracle of sorts.

I have a 165 that was damaged by me







when I tried delidding it years ago, the chip still works but with certain benchies like Super PI and WPrime it just wigs out all over the place, with things like PI Fast and Cinebench it works just fine.

Of course I did nick a few of the transistors/resistors on it's surface and that's the problem, I'll be trying to replace those tomorrow and see if I can do it or not. Have a donor chip ready and I don't really care so much if the chip survives the operation, I have another one and this one is all but useless as is.

I'll let you guys know if it survives the procedure or not once done and tested.









EDIT:
The pieces I needed came off intact and wasn't that bad to do BUT noted I may have to reball the CPU itself. When I removed the bad pieces from the CPU I believe some of the solder came off with these and there isn't enough left for anything to solder to. These CPUs use a higher temp solder that's also a harder solder so it takes some heat to melt it. Didn't help that the damaged pieces came off in pieces too and had to heat and scrape these leftovers off the chip, the ones from the donor chip came off intact as said no prob.
I'm in no hurry to do this if it can be done at all, I'll just take my time with it and see what happens.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> Getting ready to try something rather crazy yet it's possible I may be able to pull off a miracle of sorts.
> 
> I have a 165 that was damaged by me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> when I tried delidding it years ago, the chip still works but with certain benchies like Super PI and WPrime it just wigs out all over the place, with things like PI Fast and Cinebench it works just fine.
> 
> Of course I did nick a few of the transistors/resistors on it's surface and that's the problem, I'll be trying to replace those tomorrow and see if I can do it or not. Have a donor chip ready and I don't really care so much if the chip survives the operation, I have another one and this one is all but useless as is.
> 
> I'll let you guys know if it survives the procedure or not once done and tested.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> The pieces I needed came off intact and wasn't that bad to do BUT noted I may have to reball the CPU itself. When I removed the bad pieces from the CPU I believe some of the solder came off with these and there isn't enough left for anything to solder to. These CPUs use a higher temp solder that's also a harder solder so it takes some heat to melt it. Didn't help that the damaged pieces came off in pieces too and had to heat and scrape these leftovers off the chip, the ones from the donor chip came off intact as said no prob.
> I'm in no hurry to do this if it can be done at all, I'll just take my time with it and see what happens.


Nice, I've only done pin traces on cpu's. Take pics.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> Getting ready to try something rather crazy yet it's possible I may be able to pull off a miracle of sorts.
> 
> I have a 165 that was damaged by me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> when I tried delidding it years ago, the chip still works but with certain benchies like Super PI and WPrime it just wigs out all over the place, with things like PI Fast and Cinebench it works just fine.
> 
> Of course I did nick a few of the transistors/resistors on it's surface and that's the problem, I'll be trying to replace those tomorrow and see if I can do it or not. Have a donor chip ready and I don't really care so much if the chip survives the operation, I have another one and this one is all but useless as is.
> 
> I'll let you guys know if it survives the procedure or not once done and tested.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> The pieces I needed came off intact and wasn't that bad to do BUT noted I may have to reball the CPU itself. When I removed the bad pieces from the CPU I believe some of the solder came off with these and there isn't enough left for anything to solder to. These CPUs use a higher temp solder that's also a harder solder so it takes some heat to melt it. Didn't help that the damaged pieces came off in pieces too and had to heat and scrape these leftovers off the chip, the ones from the donor chip came off intact as said no prob.
> I'm in no hurry to do this if it can be done at all, I'll just take my time with it and see what happens.


Do you have a high temp iron? 45watt should rip into it no problems.

I second pictures... Pics or it didnt happen.


----------



## Kryton

Took some pics before and after removing the bad pieces.









I have a 70W iron with my station and a desoldering wand (Air) and the wand what I used to get the pieces off with. I'll also be forced to use air for resoldering since the legs of the pieces I need to solder back on are so tiny - You'd literally need a needle tip to do this with otherwise.

Carefully hold the piece in place with a small/miniature screwdriver, apply the heat and let the heat do it's thing, that's how I did the resistors on the AN7's I fixed a few weeks ago and it all worked great.


----------



## seaFs

Tightly bend a copper paper clip around the soldering irons tip. This way you get your "needle soldering iron"- Cheap yet efficient


----------



## Kryton

I was thinking along those lines earlier but don't have any paperclips like that - However I do have plenty of smaller gauge copper wire that I can get what I need to try it with.

However I still believe using air would be the way to at least try it with, I can try it with wire as suggested if that fails.

These pics are kinda blurry since my camera isn't that good for up close pics but here they are.

Chip pic:


The setup for work to begin - Note I haven't removed anything from the chip at this point:


After I began removing these damaged pieces from the bottom left as shown:


I will have to do some fenagling to make this work if it will at all, this is purely experimental in nature guys and perhaps it will work but again but if it doesn't I haven't really lost anything that matters too much.


----------



## Hueristic

I'd grab a socket off of an old board to pop in the vise.


----------



## Kryton

I have it on the heatsink to help draw off any excess heat that may cause the pins themselves to fall off.
It works as I have it and believe if it's gonna work that is the way I'll have to do it. Already considered using a socket from a board but that could easily melt since it's plastic.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> I have it on the heatsink to help draw off any excess heat that may cause the pins themselves to fall off.
> It works as I have it and believe if it's gonna work that is the way I'll have to do it. Already considered using a socket from a board but that could easily melt since it's plastic.


That plastic has a very high thermal quotient. I'm not sure what but it won't melt from transfer.


----------



## Kryton

I've melted the plastic before when trying to do something similar with an attempt to fix a broken pin. Had it in place to hold all the pins and the plastic just melted when it got hot enough to solder a pin. The method I'm using isn't that dangerous to the pins themselves, the heatsink does draw the heat off and the pins are exactly as they were before I started, that being the main concern and so far it's working. I've held heat to the chip for an extended amount of time already and the pins weren't affected.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> I've melted the plastic before when trying to do something similar with an attempt to fix a broken pin. Had it in place to hold all the pins and the plastic just melted when it got hot enough to solder a pin. The method I'm using isn't that dangerous to the pins themselves, the heatsink does draw the heat off and the pins are exactly as they were before I started, that being the main concern and so far it's working. I've held heat to the chip for an extended amount of time already and the pins weren't affected.


Hows your vision? When I did 3 traces on a 486dx I had 20/10 (It's like 20/40 now Grrr), I would never even consider that now even with magnification. My hands aren't steady enough anymore either. You never know what you had until it's gone. Man every time I got one or 2 traces done the heat from the third on would toast the others. It was a nightmare but the chip was pretty expensive at that time.


----------



## Kryton

It's good enough if I pull a Colonel Klink with a magnifying glass







and that's how I've been doing some of the work.
As said I'm in no rush, could be next year before I continue with it and just trying it to see if it can't be done.


----------



## Mr.Scott




----------



## Hueristic




----------



## Kryton

You guys crack me up....


----------



## SwishaMane

I wanted to hit up my brothas in ther s939 club before adventuring to other threads...

*Does anyone have an AM3+ CPU I can borrow to test a motherboard?* My 990FX SaberTooth board has been resurrected from what I thought was certain death. I just popped it on the tech station this morning for giggles after 3 months or so of being dead, and shes posting. Im on it right now. I'm having a recurring "New CPU Installed" error on every boot, and I've been through EVERYTHING. Only option left is bad CPU or board is bugged. Research shows that even a new BIOS chip won't fix the issue. Ive re-fl;ashed, tried new batt, re-seated the CPU 3 times... I'm wondering if the chip is damaged, even tho it works under the boards own default settings.

Example: I have 16Gb of 1866 RAM at 9-10-9-27 timings, the CPU boots after POST halt at 1333, 9-9-924. BIOS is remembering my settings, but they are not being applied when I override to boot to Windows.

Thjis board was thought dead when I got my RX480 and pulled out the water cooled GTX 580. Water got on the board, and after a few minutes of trying to boot, the board kept failing mroe and more until it just stopped POST'ing. Well, shes running now, but the recurring "new cpu installed" error keeps happening, and like i said, a new BIOS IC wont help. Someone already tried that on their setup, and it still halted.


----------



## zila

I would try that processor in another board. If the symptom follows the processor then you know for sure what's up. If water got into the socket it would have taken out the processor I would think. If the processor works fine in another board then you know the board is doinked.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> I wanted to hit up my brothas in ther s939 club before adventuring to other threads...
> 
> *Does anyone have an AM3+ CPU I can borrow to test a motherboard?* My 990FX SaberTooth board has been resurrected from what I thought was certain death. I just popped it on the tech station this morning for giggles after 3 months or so of being dead, and shes posting. Im on it right now. I'm having a recurring "New CPU Installed" error on every boot, and I've been through EVERYTHING. Only option left is bad CPU or board is bugged. Research shows that even a new BIOS chip won't fix the issue. Ive re-fl;ashed, tried new batt, re-seated the CPU 3 times... I'm wondering if the chip is damaged, even tho it works under the boards own default settings.
> 
> Example: I have 16Gb of 1866 RAM at 9-10-9-27 timings, the CPU boots after POST halt at 1333, 9-9-924. BIOS is remembering my settings, but they are not being applied when I override to boot to Windows.
> 
> Thjis board was thought dead when I got my RX480 and pulled out the water cooled GTX 580. Water got on the board, and after a few minutes of trying to boot, the board kept failing mroe and more until it just stopped POST'ing. Well, shes running now, but the recurring "new cpu installed" error keeps happening, and like i said, a new BIOS IC wont help. Someone already tried that on their setup, and it still halted.


Board is shot brah.


----------



## SwishaMane

I don't get it tho, its working great besides this one small error. I can even disable the halt at F1 error and boot directly to windows without going though it. It just loads the wrong CPU multi and RAM divider. Still 4+ghz and 1333 RAM, system runs smooth as hell tho. I'm on it right now...

Should I get a new BIOS IC ANYWAY??

Weird cause it boots with memory of what on board controllers I want, just not multi and divider... If I disable the ethernet, that controller stays off. Disabled the on-board serial and firewire, all stay off. Enable them, and they will enable at boot. Just a REALLY weird unique issue. This board is still useful. Maybe I'll get a cheap CPU and 1333 RAM and use it for HTPC in the future when the s939 needs retired finally.


----------



## mattliston

there are a few sub $20 dualcores on ebay that fit AM3 motherboards. I think I saw a $11 shipped processor, but that might have been during my AM2 search while I was looking for a good starting chip for my old M2N board

hop on ebay and sort by distance nearest. I bet you can find a seller related to a partsstore or enthusiast seller willing to help ya out.


----------



## gasparspeed

Semperon 1x0s (like the 145). Those are AM3 and are really cheap. ebay, craigslist, etc. should help looking for those.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> I don't get it tho, its working great besides this one small error. I can even disable the halt at F1 error and boot directly to windows without going though it. It just loads the wrong CPU multi and RAM divider. Still 4+ghz and 1333 RAM, system runs smooth as hell tho. I'm on it right now...
> 
> Should I get a new BIOS IC ANYWAY??
> 
> Weird cause it boots with memory of what on board controllers I want, just not multi and divider... If I disable the ethernet, that controller stays off. Disabled the on-board serial and firewire, all stay off. Enable them, and they will enable at boot. Just a REALLY weird unique issue. This board is still useful. Maybe I'll get a cheap CPU and 1333 RAM and use it for HTPC in the future when the s939 needs retired finally.


It's not that unique. Google around a little.







It affects the ROG boards as well.
It is a socket corrosion / re-ball issue.
You can try baking the board and it'll probably work correctly for a little while, but will eventually go back to the way it was.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> It's not that unique. Google around a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It affects the ROG boards as well.
> It is a socket corrosion / re-ball issue.
> You can try baking the board and it'll probably work correctly for a little while, but will eventually go back to the way it was.


I was googling it, and one thing I seen was possible socket bending... I get what you're saying tho. Im just impressed the board is functioning in any way, compared to how dead I was SURE it was just 3 months ago. I'm not giving up JUST yet, but not going to dump any money into it I guess. Baking it was an option I was thinking about.

Any good way to clean possible corrosion in the socket? And if it were corroded, how could the machine work like it is now? I mean, 100% honest, its running great! Its OC'ing the CPU by 100Mhz (4.1ghz) but my 1866 RAM is at 1333. THATS IT! WRONG RAM DIVIDER!!11!11!1!1!!!


----------



## Mr.Scott

Socket bending is pretty much the same result. Could be that also.
Functionality is no different than an Intel socket with bent pins. Works great except for....*insert problem here*.


----------



## SwishaMane

Well well... lookie here. A little oven baked motherboard cookies recipe and I'm off. I also noticed the CPU wasn't laying flat in socket. I held it down by all 4 corners instead of middle of the IHS, as I locked the lever down.



Let's hope it stays this way! w00t w00t!!!


----------



## Mr.Scott

I hope it does too. Glad it worked for you.


----------



## zila

Keeping my fingers crossed for you. I hope that's the end of your problems.


----------



## nategr8ns

I know this was a while ago but I wanted to bring it back up...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> The early batches of x2s often didn't have the x2 on the CPU. I know i had a 4800 like that. Also since its an older toledo, i would say you can expect 2.7 or 2.8 before you really need more volts. I finally got my setup with 8GBs back up to 3GHZ stable. Turns out the PSU I was using was going bad (or just too weak) and my GPU was getting voltage starved. I'll get some pics up later when I'm home. It sure is nice having this extra RAM.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> Here you go folks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice and stable. Wish i could get 1T to work at this speed, but it refuses to run at anything beyond 200Mhz, so its either 2.8Ghz and 1T or 3Ghz and 2T.


Wow! If it had been easier to do, I may never have made the leap from s939.

A while back I had complained about my DFI motherboard not turning on with the power button, and only turning on when a stick of ram was removed. Does that sound like a PSU issue to anybody? I haven't had a chance to test with my desktop's PSU, but I don't really trust the little 'ol thermaltake I had been using for 939 benching.


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*
> 
> I know this was a while ago but I wanted to bring it back up...
> 
> Wow! If it had been easier to do, I may never have made the leap from s939.
> 
> A while back I had complained about my DFI motherboard not turning on with the power button, and only turning on when a stick of ram was removed. Does that sound like a PSU issue to anybody? I haven't had a chance to test with my desktop's PSU, but I don't really trust the little 'ol thermaltake I had been using for 939 benching.


Well I know for sure my problem was the PSU. It was a junker that came with a case. If I remember my reading of this thread correctly (it's been a while since i binge read the thread), I think that DFI boards CAN be picky about the power supply.


----------



## gasparspeed

Yeah, i also remember reading stuff about DFIs (and Abit 775s) being a bit picky sometimes with cheapo PSUs. IIRC it was something about the 12V rail Amps or something like that.
Anyways, it's not a good idea using a cheapo PSU, a Deer 400W unit (super-cheapo used mid-00s OEM thing) killed 2 nice motherboards i had because it's +5VSB line was literally burnt (like, a whole black spot on the PCB)


----------



## zila

Yup, never ever skimp on the power supply. It's the most important part of any build. I always choose the best quality power supply I can get when ever possible or I just don't build.


----------



## SwishaMane

whoo, Im in the middle of my AM3+ re-build with a new case, and ditching the water cooling. The corsair 750D airflow edition is looking gorgeous with my gear. I have horrible wire management skills tho...

MAN! That sabertooth just didnt hold out. Its obviously a socket problem. I let it sit and get cold for a few hours after I got it running right, and it had problems AGAIN. A pin or two just arent connecting like they should... So Im just going back to the gigabyte boad (yuck).

Oh wait,t his isn't s939 related... UGH


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> whoo, Im in the middle of my AM3+ re-build with a new case, and ditching the water cooling. The corsair 750D airflow edition is looking gorgeous with my gear. I have horrible wire management skills tho...
> 
> MAN! That sabertooth just didnt hold out. Its obviously a socket problem. I let it sit and get cold for a few hours after I got it running right, and it had problems AGAIN. A pin or two just arent connecting like they should... So Im just going back to the gigabyte boad (yuck).
> 
> Oh wait,t his isn't s939 related... UGH


I managed to get 6 more months out of a board that had a socket issue by using a zip tie to apply upward pressure on the HSF . I looped it around the cooler and attached it to the top of the case. It stopped the random restarts until one day it just wouldn't post. In this case the weight of the hsf combined with lots of heating and cooling had evidently broken something in the socket area.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> I managed to get 6 more months out of a board that had a socket issue by using a zip tie to apply upward pressure on the HSF . I looped it around the cooler and attached it to the top of the case. It stopped the random restarts until one day it just wouldn't post. In this case the weight of the hsf combined with lots of heating and cooling had evidently broken something in the socket area.


I'm not going to bother with it. I might replace my s939 (!!!) HTPC combo with this board if I can find a cheap quad core and cheap 8GB of 1600 RAM that HOPEFULLY, the board will default to at least 1333 like it does now, and I can have a better performing rig. I'm worried about what other unknown characteristics arise from this issue tho?? Just because it was working sweet loading incorrect values before doesn't mean I stressed the CPU or RAM, or REALLY tested much. It was rock solid, but I didn't run every program I could...

All a game...


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Yeah, i also remember reading stuff about DFIs (and Abit 775s) being a bit picky sometimes with cheapo PSUs. IIRC it was something about the 12V rail Amps or something like that.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Yup, never ever skimp on the power supply. It's the most important part of any build. I always choose the best quality power supply I can get when ever possible or I just don't build.


These DFIs are picky about everything...

I'll just let the DFI board keep sitting until I have time to rip the PSU out of my main rig. Then I think I might be selling off my 939 gear :'(


----------



## SwishaMane

So I decided to just contact Thermalright directly about my ultra 120 needing some fan clips. Short story, they are sending me 2 SETS, AND an AM3+ top bracket adapter. The catch, I have to pay an entire $2 s/h.

DONE!

Unfortunately I got ahead of myself earlier this week and bought an adapter for AM3+ myself (because I assumed I would never get a reply from TR), so I'll have a spare now, if anyone has an old Thermalright cooler and needs to get it on an AM2/3+ board, let me know. I have two top brackets now, that use the stock backplate.

btw, I will be using that gimpy 990FX board as my new HTPC if I can get it stable and running, so bye bye s939. Of course I'm keeping my gorgeous s939 combo, just gonna be boxing her up, or framing it like a picture for the wall.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Of course I'm keeping my gorgeous s939 combo, just gonna be boxing her up, or framing it like a picture for the wall.


----------



## eternalenergy311

Hello to all!!! It's been a long time since the veterans on this thread walked me through building and OC'ing my first S939 setup several years back, and its cool to see the site still active. That being said; I have finally decided to upgrade and may be selling the MB, CPU, and cherished sticks of Mushkin Redlines from my sig rig. If anyone is still interested in this stuff let me know...otherwise I will keep it just because I like it and it has been by far the most reliable hardware I have ever owned.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Of course I'm keeping my gorgeous s939 combo, just gonna be boxing her up, or framing it like a picture for the wall.


My first dead motherboard:


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*
> 
> My first dead motherboard:


Slick!

If i can't hammer out these problems with this 990FX, then the s939 going right back in. Board is working like before, still "New CPU error" but its lagging on initial POST after the rig has been off for awhile. Before it just boot and worked great, disable halt on F1 error, and it would boot to Windows like any normal machine. Now its starting real slow, taking like 60 secs to start POST, then barely boot windows this morning. So there is a major issue.







Why cant it JUST WORK! I can deal with the stock CPU an RAM settings, still light years ahead of the 939, but JUST WORK!


----------



## rhkcommander959

Might try excessive clamping force between the cpu and mobo? If the brackets are strong use some bolts. FORCE the continuity


----------



## ShrimpBrime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Slick!
> 
> If i can't hammer out these problems with this 990FX, then the s939 going right back in. Board is working like before, still "New CPU error" but its lagging on initial POST after the rig has been off for awhile. Before it just boot and worked great, disable halt on F1 error, and it would boot to Windows like any normal machine. Now its starting real slow, taking like 60 secs to start POST, then barely boot windows this morning. So there is a major issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why cant it JUST WORK! I can deal with the stock CPU an RAM settings, still light years ahead of the 939, but JUST WORK!


Bro, that bios sounds a little broken!!

Do me a favor and try something...... Be sure your HDDs and SSDs are unplugged. No USB stick required for this.

Clear CMOS (the long way) Pull all but 2 sticks of ram if you run four. Put cmos back in order. Slap in the original disk. Boot From that disk (it will likely automatically do so anyways) and find the recover bios and do so. Once you've recovered the bios, you want to clear cmos one more time. You can just use the jumper, but I suggest pulling power and the battery.

Plug in your OS drive. Boot and run that bios to see if the new cpu installed pop up goes away and winders is running normal.

If the above does not work, that bios is likely got a little issue. You can purchase a new bios cheap on e-bay called Bios Depot.

GLHF


----------



## frostbite

Whats the lowest core temp on 939?

I managed 9°C on air with a 3000+ no oc with an ac freezr 7 pro


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frostbite*
> 
> Whats the lowest core temp on 939?
> 
> I managed 9°C on air with a 3000+ no oc with an ac freezr 7 pro


Wouldn't it just be whatever lowest ambient temp you could put the computer in? Seems independent of the computer itself as long as it was using little enough power


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frostbite*
> 
> Whats the lowest core temp on 939?
> 
> I managed 9°C on air with a 3000+ no oc with an ac freezr 7 pro


LOL. Not bloody likely. Unless your living area ambient temp was like 5c.

BTW, I've had 939's into the -40c range. Most coldbug at around -10c.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShrimpBrime*
> 
> Bro, that bios sounds a little broken!!
> 
> Do me a favor and try something...... Be sure your HDDs and SSDs are unplugged. No USB stick required for this.
> 
> Clear CMOS (the long way) Pull all but 2 sticks of ram if you run four. Put cmos back in order. Slap in the original disk. Boot From that disk (it will likely automatically do so anyways) and find the recover bios and do so. Once you've recovered the bios, you want to clear cmos one more time. You can just use the jumper, but I suggest pulling power and the battery.
> 
> Plug in your OS drive. Boot and run that bios to see if the new cpu installed pop up goes away and winders is running normal.
> 
> If the above does not work, that bios is likely got a little issue. You can purchase a new bios cheap on e-bay called Bios Depot.


No dice, already looked into it, and others have bought replacement BIOS chips, still "new cpu installed" error every boot. I trickled my issue of stability and everything all around to the cheap DDR3 I picked up for this system. Split my 4x4GB kit from my main, and shes rock solid. Just passed an hour of Prime95 when before it crashed within 5 - 60 secs.


----------



## mattliston

Actually, sounds like the cpu/nb was underpowered

less ram= less stress on it.


----------



## ShrimpBrime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ShrimpBrime*
> 
> Bro, that bios sounds a little broken!!
> 
> Do me a favor and try something...... Be sure your HDDs and SSDs are unplugged. No USB stick required for this.
> 
> Clear CMOS (the long way) Pull all but 2 sticks of ram if you run four. Put cmos back in order. Slap in the original disk. Boot From that disk (it will likely automatically do so anyways) and find the recover bios and do so. Once you've recovered the bios, you want to clear cmos one more time. You can just use the jumper, but I suggest pulling power and the battery.
> 
> Plug in your OS drive. Boot and run that bios to see if the new cpu installed pop up goes away and winders is running normal.
> 
> If the above does not work, that bios is likely got a little issue. You can purchase a new bios cheap on e-bay called Bios Depot.
> 
> 
> 
> No dice, already looked into it, and others have bought replacement BIOS chips, still "new cpu installed" error every boot. I trickled my issue of stability and everything all around to the cheap DDR3 I picked up for this system. Split my 4x4GB kit from my main, and shes rock solid. Just passed an hour of Prime95 when before it crashed within 5 - 60 secs.
Click to expand...

I had a nice 2 stick set of Corsair Vengeance. It's decent memory. However the memory controller on FX doesn't seem to like 4 sticks of ram in some cases.

Not sure what you mean by "looked into it..." but bios recovery may save that bios from any more corruption. It's not an update flash. It's a wipe and restore.

You can also try enter bios. Hit the set default values button, then do a long clear cmos. And here is where you'd either try and run the system just stock or do the bios recovery.

I assume you try and overclock but bios puts the new cpu flag up every time you save settings and reset. Only alternative is software overclocking......


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShrimpBrime*
> 
> I had a nice 2 stick set of Corsair Vengeance. It's decent memory. However the memory controller on FX doesn't seem to like 4 sticks of ram in some cases.
> 
> Not sure what you mean by "looked into it..." but bios recovery may save that bios from any more corruption. It's not an update flash. It's a wipe and restore.
> 
> You can also try enter bios. Hit the set default values button, then do a long clear cmos. And here is where you'd either try and run the system just stock or do the bios recovery.
> 
> I assume you try and overclock but bios puts the new cpu flag up every time you save settings and reset. Only alternative is software overclocking......


I searched extensively for anything related to "new cpu installed" error. Quite a few people report buying a replacement BIOS chip and it doesn't help. I don't want to waste another $15. I've had the batt removed for a couple weeks before first boot other day. Any CMOS reset, BIOS reset idea I've tried.

Its one stupid pin in the socket thats not making connection with CPU. Because just last weekend I had it booting perfect for a little while, then the new cpu error started again. Right now its stable and working great, Im just going to leave it alone. The Ultra 120 is cooling well, and everything seems to be working fine.


----------



## ShrimpBrime

Hey as long as your happy and it's stable and working that matters most.


----------



## SwishaMane

Yeah, its def stable and reliable. Just bugged in that one regard. I'm kinda curious if a soap bath and contact clean would do for this board... ?? lol, so tempted.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> I'm kinda curious if a soap bath and contact clean would do for this board... ?? lol, so tempted.


That'll probably do it in. Don't do that.
You already have a socket contact issue. Introducing anything that promotes corrosion will just finish it off.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> That'll probably do it in. Don't do that.
> You already have a socket contact issue. Introducing anything that promotes corrosion will just finish it off.


LOL, Im not actually going to do it.


----------



## rhkcommander959

With my swiftech 5002 peltier block I had subambient temps, i need to finish lapping the new baseplate i made


----------



## bfedorov11

What is the difference with the UT version of the lanparty sli-dr board compared to the non UT version?


----------



## Kryton

Hopefully this will help.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813136151

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813136157


----------



## ShrimpBrime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bfedorov11*
> 
> What is the difference with the UT version of the lanparty sli-dr board compared to the non UT version?


Not entirely a whole lot really. Both have incredible overclocking bios's and many out there modded (which is the way to go) but the one thing that stands out with the UT is that it glows under a black light.


----------



## SwishaMane

Hey guys, noticing a weird glitch on this bugged 990fx board. Its not keeping the time correctly. Date is right, but time is about 20 mins fast. It did this yesterday too. What could it mean? My BIOS chip IS actually at fault?? Might actually be the golden key I need to fix this board???


----------



## gasparspeed

@SwishaMane maybe the internal clock went bananas?


----------



## Mr.Scott

If you do some googling, you'll find that there is no fix for that except RMA or replace. It is not that uncommon of a problem.


----------



## bfedorov11

@SwishaMane

have you replaced the battery?


----------



## ShrimpBrime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Hey guys, noticing a weird glitch on this bugged 990fx board. Its not keeping the time correctly. Date is right, but time is about 20 mins fast. It did this yesterday too. What could it mean? My BIOS chip IS actually at fault?? Might actually be the golden key I need to fix this board???


Mr. Scotty is right. I've seen my boards do this, but was after a few good beatings benching chips. 790FX chipset is the last I've had this problem similar to this.

Had a M3A32 MVP board that was really screwy. Bios set voltage would only go 1.60v If I set the voltage manually to 1.5650v, it would jump voltage to 1.66v and run it. It was quite nice having the extra voltage, but had other problems such as certain multipliers would just blue screen, One of the memory dividers was shot running a lower speed than specified. The board did eventually die in a no post state without error codes or lights. Sad day because the board brought me quite a few amazing overclocks.

Your board may have one foot in the grave. The bios recovery or a new chip might save the board if the board accepts the new chip. That one above would not accept a new bios chip, I tried 2 new ones with different bios versions one was the same as the original flashed to current and the other was original install that would come with the board. No luck. Had tried the new bios's before the board died.


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> LOL. Not bloody likely. Unless your living area ambient temp was like 5c.
> 
> BTW, I've had 939's into the -40c range. Most coldbug at around -10c.


My FX-55 runs full pot


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bfedorov11*
> 
> @SwishaMane
> 
> have you replaced the battery?


For sure. Just some weird bugs I have to deal with for about a year. If I can't fix it, got some tricks up my sleeve. Not a quitter!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShrimpBrime*
> 
> Mr. Scotty is right. I've seen my boards do this, but was after a few good beatings benching chips. 790FX chipset is the last I've had this problem similar to this.
> 
> Had a M3A32 MVP board that was really screwy. Bios set voltage would only go 1.60v If I set the voltage manually to 1.5650v, it would jump voltage to 1.66v and run it. It was quite nice having the extra voltage, but had other problems such as certain multipliers would just blue screen, One of the memory dividers was shot running a lower speed than specified. The board did eventually die in a no post state without error codes or lights. Sad day because the board brought me quite a few amazing overclocks.
> 
> Your board may have one foot in the grave. The bios recovery or a new chip might save the board if the board accepts the new chip. That one above would not accept a new bios chip, I tried 2 new ones with different bios versions one was the same as the original flashed to current and the other was original install that would come with the board. No luck. Had tried the new bios's before the board died.


One foot in the grave is right. This board has not only "died" once and been RMA'd to no avail (came back still not POSTing) 2 months laying around with no power and no battery brought it back to life, and I continued to use it for like another 2 yrs before my water cooling accident early July when my RX480 came in. 2 months sitting in a closet with no power or batt brought it back to life AGAIN, but now there's these weird bugs. I can deal with a wonky clock, its just a HTPC... I have an idea for the "new cpu installed" error thats.. how you say... controversial.

Since it's, at this point, a "junk" board, I have nothing to lose. If I totally kill it, I will toss the s939 combo back in and keep chugging. Waiting for my parcel from Thermalright to arrive with my new fan clips for the ultra 120, and I can turn it vertical on my board. At that point, I will be doing the mobo mod and see what my result is...









Its my intent to completely fix this board, even if clock is still wonky. MARK MY WERDZ! Or I'll just kill it, whatevs...


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> For sure. Just some weird bugs I have to deal with for about a year. If I can't fix it, got some tricks up my sleeve. Not a quitter!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One foot in the grave is right. This board has not only "died" once and been RMA'd to no avail (came back still not POSTing) 2 months laying around with no power and no battery brought it back to life, and I continued to use it for like another 2 yrs before my water cooling accident early July when my RX480 came in. 2 months sitting in a closet with no power or batt brought it back to life AGAIN, but now there's these weird bugs. I can deal with a wonky clock, its just a HTPC... I have an idea for the "new cpu installed" error thats.. how you say... controversial.
> 
> Since it's, at this point, a "junk" board, I have nothing to lose. If I totally kill it, I will toss the s939 combo back in and keep chugging. Waiting for my parcel from Thermalright to arrive with my new fan clips for the ultra 120, and I can turn it vertical on my board. At that point, I will be doing the mobo mod and see what my result is...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its my intent to completely fix this board, even if clock is still wonky. MARK MY WERDZ! Or I'll just kill it, whatevs...


Just bake it (reflow), if that doesn't do it then toss it.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> My FX-55 runs full pot


LOL. I have a few that will also. They are not the norm.
3700 SD
Opty 144
Opty 148


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> Just bake it (reflow), if that doesn't do it then toss it.


I think he did that already. It lasted like a couple days then came back to the state it's in now.
I agree with you. Toss it.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> I think he did that already. It lasted like a couple days then came back to the state it's in now.
> I agree with you. Toss it.


Yeah, I'm in a similar boat. Trying to keep an Extreme 5 running until the AM4 gets released. Running single channel bites the big one! But I really love my 1605T it just handles everything and I've been running 3 monitors for years on it. Civ6 runs smooth as silk even with the single channel on an old 7950. I just baked the 8800gs the other day lol the entire system is dieing a slow death.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> Yeah, I'm in a similar boat. Trying to keep an Extreme 5 running until the AM4 gets released. Running single channel bites the big one! But I really love my 1605T it just handles everything and I've been running 3 monitors for years on it. Civ6 runs smooth as silk even with the single channel on an old 7950. I just baked the 8800gs the other day lol the entire system is dieing a slow death.


Im in single channel mode with two dimms too. I can mount my cooler facing back instead of up once my fan clips come in. Cooler hits RAM, so couldn't turn it. Actually, this cooler could cool this 65w chip without a fan, so maybe I'll start my mobo mod tonight to get this old girl right.


----------



## SwishaMane

I am starting to get fed up with computers. I pretty much killed the Sabertooth off now for sure. Not a big deal, it was already wonky, IDC.

Im concerned about my s939 combo. I installed it back intot he HTPC case, got it all hooked up, the boring jazz. I'm prompted with a "USB overcurrent status detected. Shutting down in 15 seconds."










I checked all my USB mobo connectors, and poulled the header cables, still get the error. WHY CANT THESE MACHINES JUST WORK? The mobo has only been sitting on top of a box for 2 weeks without a batt... UGH. So annoyed.


----------



## ShrimpBrime

Gotta check the caps on the board. You can replace the bad ones. Because of it's age, it's a good starting point.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShrimpBrime*
> 
> Gotta check the caps on the board. You can replace the bad ones. Because of it's age, it's a good starting point.


I actually thought maybe the 16gb RAM was being an issue, so I through some 1gb kit in to get to BIOS and set all the settings. Save and exit, power off. Switch RAM and boom, working normal.

I'm still getting fed up with computers, my luck lately hasnt been positive.


----------



## ShrimpBrime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ShrimpBrime*
> 
> Gotta check the caps on the board. You can replace the bad ones. Because of it's age, it's a good starting point.
> 
> 
> 
> I actually thought maybe the 16gb RAM was being an issue, so I through some 1gb kit in to get to BIOS and set all the settings. Save and exit, power off. Switch RAM and boom, working normal.
> 
> I'm still getting fed up with computers, my luck lately hasnt been positive.
Click to expand...

Ah yea. That good luck comes and goes. You'll be alright. Just gotta get yourself some new hardware to play with!


----------



## SwishaMane

Here are some photos of my adventure with socket removal. The chp is directly into the mobo pins without the socket present. Ultra 120 mounted and has good pressure. This rendered a no POST condition where CPU LED stayed lit, no further movement, so I just gave up. If the cpu is DIRECTLY in the pins and it wont boot, IDK man...

Oh well, s939 back up and running smooth. That 'USB over current status detected' was related to 16GB of RAM on fresh clear CMOS. Weird bug. I had to clear CMOS again this morning, and decided to just use one 4gb dimm and see if the usb bug would go away, and it did. 2 dimms and it came back.

















So I'm done flooding our 939 club with AM3 related nonsense.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Pin contact isn't the problem. Ball contact below that is. Where the socket actually makes contact with the board.
Find somebody to re-ball that socket and I bet it works fine.


----------



## SwishaMane

What if I melt some flux down in there and take a heat gun to this board?


----------



## ShrimpBrime

Anything is worth a shot, but I wouldn't mess with the flux.

Bake the motherboard instead.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> What if I melt some flux down in there and take a heat gun to this board?


I once covered the area around a chip I wanted to reflow (Asrock 939Dual-SATA2) with modeling clay and hit it with the heat gun and that did the trick.

Try it why not and then...Burn the witch!


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShrimpBrime*
> 
> Anything is worth a shot, but I wouldn't mess with the flux.
> 
> Bake the motherboard instead.


I've already baked the board, but with the worry that plastic would start melting, I'm not sure I gave it enough time. A buddy of mine has a nice heat gun I'm going to borrow. I'll start by warming the board evenly all around, and re-flowing the socket once board is warmed up. I figured flux would help keep solder balls in place and keep them from bridging.

This I guess is my final attempt at getting anything from this old girl... After this, its the trash an for her. lol, might steal some onboard components while I'm there I guess...


----------



## rhkcommander959

Crazy Idea that would take a while...:

Wrap a thin wire - a needle or something that fits to touch the pins, maybe a paperclip shaved down around a soldering iron, use it to carefully heat up each pin. It would take some time since theres nearly a thousand of them, but they are so small it wouldnt take too long to melt the solder.

Reballing would be a helluva lot quicker, but good luck finding someone to do it


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> Crazy Idea that would take a while...:
> 
> Wrap a thin wire - a needle or something that fits to touch the pins, maybe a paperclip shaved down around a soldering iron, use it to carefully heat up each pin. It would take some time since theres nearly a thousand of them, but they are so small it wouldnt take too long to melt the solder.
> 
> Reballing would be a helluva lot quicker, but good luck finding someone to do it


That is actually an interesting idea, a paper clip would work on a 40 watt iron should do it.


----------



## SwishaMane

I have a heat gun, and a decent understanding of the effects of whats going to happen as long as I do it right, lol. Its not a big deal. I dont have 6 hours one pin at a time for a "maybe will work" scenario.

I'm going to give this board maybe another hour of my time, and if nothing happens, plop it in the trash...


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> I have a heat gun, and a decent understanding of the effects of whats going to happen as long as I do it right, lol. Its not a big deal. I dont have 6 hours one pin at a time for a "maybe will work" scenario.
> 
> I'm going to give this board maybe another hour of my time, and if nothing happens, plop it in the trash...


When I upgrade my AM3+ I'm going to try that method rhkcommander959 recommended, it will be after AM4 though.


----------



## Kryton

Swish, ever considered trying to counter-bend it?

If you're going to toss it, you can instead just set it somewhere while running your 939 or whatever, and have something with enough weight on the board to have this effect by sitting it on it's corners only with the weight where it needs to be. Of course it won't happen overnight but if you're not going to be using it I'd try that and give it at least a few weeks, then test it again.
I'd use just enough weight to see it trying to have an opposite effect to the way it's bent. It didn't get bent overnight and certainly won't straighten out quickly either, just something to try as an experiment if you want - I mean you have nothing to lose and all the time needed to see if it doesn't have an effect.
Once it seems straight THEN reheat the solderpoints and test it.

If you just don't want to mess with it and really want to toss it, send it here.








Seriously I could try that myself and see if it works or not as an experiment.


----------



## rhkcommander959

Counterbending is a good thought, I have had success in the past with.

It wouldn't take 6 hours a pin and I wouldn't use a heat gun, soldering irons are dirt cheap. It might take 6 seconds a pin tops, Counting time moving between pins. I'm sure it could be a lot quicker.

that's an hour and a half roughly to do them all slowly


----------



## SwishaMane

The board was "working fine" to a degree even with the bending, so I don't think counter bending would've helped completely.

Regardless, the board is pretty much shot I think. I did the re-flow with the heat gun last night, melted a couple bits of plastic here and there, nothing important. Same issue as before... power on, and CPU LED stays on, no other activity. She's dead all.









Not a problem, the s939 will continue her services until AM4, and I can pass my main AM3 setup to the HTPC and be on my way.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> The board was "working fine" to a degree even with the bending, so I don't think counter bending would've helped completely.
> 
> Regardless, the board is pretty much shot I think. I did the re-flow with the heat gun last night, melted a couple bits of plastic here and there, nothing important. Same issue as before... power on, and CPU LED stays on, no other activity. She's dead all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not a problem, the s939 will continue her services until AM4, and I can pass my main AM3 setup to the HTPC and be on my way.


Ship it to Kyton for GP.


----------



## bfedorov11

What do you guys think? Scored this on CL a couple days ago. 2x 7800GT with what looks like universal danger den blocks. Single core opty, swiftech block. Mobo is the dfi ut sli-dr. Wasn't sure on the ram but it looks like a winner for a 2gb kit - ballistix 56278. Guy had screenshots of it running.. I'm afraid to see the inside of those blocks though. Water is probably 10 years old. Any idea if that pump is recommended over a mcp350?

Also just grabbed a delidded binned 165 opty and some redline xp4000 for cheap on ebay.

I've been collecting 939 era stuff off and on for a few years now. Think it is time to finally start building and binning all the ram I have here.


----------



## Hueristic

@bfedorov11, Very nice.


----------



## rhkcommander959

Looks like a good haul!

The cpu block looks like a swiftech gt impingement block. They work well even on modern cpus. I myself used an mcw6002 on i7 until I started fixing the peltier (using without before, i7 is too hot to TEC anyway).

There are some mods you can do for better performance, I'm on mobile but IIRC you can drill another hole inside for better performance. Make sure the water inlet is hooked up to pump out. It will work in reverse but not as well... The block is highly restrictive, some people enlarge the nozzles for better flow.

I don't recognize the pump from what I can see, can't zoom in. It looks like a pond pump maybe... should be labeled

Great mobo. Great ram, it will push decent but you will want fans on it if it's like my ballistix tracers, mine did ddr600+ back in the day with cooling. A lot of peoples' died from running too hot.

Opty 165 is always a good choice. I would be surprised if it won't do 3 on water delidded.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bfedorov11*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you guys think? Scored this on CL a couple days ago. 2x 7800GT with what looks like universal danger den blocks. Single core opty, swiftech block. Mobo is the dfi ut sli-dr. Wasn't sure on the ram but it looks like a winner for a 2gb kit - ballistix 56278. Guy had screenshots of it running.. I'm afraid to see the inside of those blocks though. Water is probably 10 years old. Any idea if that pump is recommended over a mcp350?
> 
> Also just grabbed a delidded binned 165 opty and some redline xp4000 for cheap on ebay.
> 
> I've been collecting 939 era stuff off and on for a few years now. Think it is time to finally start building and binning all the ram I have here.


Bangin little rig, what case is that? Can i ask what you paid?


----------



## Herm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Im concerned about my s939 combo. I installed it back intot he HTPC case, got it all hooked up, the boring jazz. I'm prompted with a "USB overcurrent status detected. Shutting down in 15 seconds."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I checked all my USB mobo connectors, and poulled the header cables, still get the error. WHY CANT THESE MACHINES JUST WORK? The mobo has only been sitting on top of a box for 2 weeks without a batt... UGH. So annoyed.


Hi SwishaMane,

I was away for some time, I've just seen your message today... and yes, as you have found in the latter post, it's linked to the use of 4x 4Gb RAM...

I got that same error message when I had to replace my bios battery on my Asus A8N32SLI and ... got mad either as I have nothing at all hooked on my USB plugs !

It's a really weird bug on that motherboard Bios, but that huge RAM setup isn't officially supported by the motherboard manual...

At each battery change or bios reset, 3 RAM modules must be removed to be able to boot, enter setup, and fix the settings... After saving and shuting down the computer, all the memory can be re-installed again.

Have a nice day,

Herm


----------



## nategr8ns

I still have no idea what's up with my DFI board and RAM.

It will only power on if the RAM power LED (amber near the ram sockets) is lit.
From my understanding, that LED should only come on AFTER the rig is switched on.

There are a few things that get that LED to turn on
Cycling the PSU cutoff switch a few times
switching the jumbo jumper near the RAM from "default" to "up to +4V" and back a few times
pulling out a stick of RAM before the system is running, possibly only after the power button has been pressed.

Does anybody have a good guide for every jumper on the board? I believe the manual skipped over some of the jumpers.


----------



## bfedorov11

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> Looks like a good haul!
> 
> The cpu block looks like a swiftech gt impingement block. They work well even on modern cpus. I myself used an mcw6002 on i7 until I started fixing the peltier (using without before, i7 is too hot to TEC anyway).
> 
> There are some mods you can do for better performance, I'm on mobile but IIRC you can drill another hole inside for better performance. Make sure the water inlet is hooked up to pump out. It will work in reverse but not as well... The block is highly restrictive, some people enlarge the nozzles for better flow.
> 
> I don't recognize the pump from what I can see, can't zoom in. It looks like a pond pump maybe... should be labeled
> 
> Great mobo. Great ram, it will push decent but you will want fans on it if it's like my ballistix tracers, mine did ddr600+ back in the day with cooling. A lot of peoples' died from running too hot.
> 
> Opty 165 is always a good choice. I would be surprised if it won't do 3 on water delidded.






You're right about the pump - AquaXtreme AQX 50Z. Just pulled the PSU - PC Power & Cooling Turbo Cool 510-SLI 510W.

Ebay ad stated the chip could do 3150mhz stable. Never had one of these delidded. Do you have to reinstall the IHS or can you mount them naked?

I was going to watercool the ram too. I wanted to get period correct ram blocks but I might not be able to find anything. The only ones I've seen online are from ocz and they don't look very impressive. They seem to be difficult to find. I might cheat a little as I have a spare ek block.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Bangin little rig, what case is that? Can i ask what you paid?


I paid $100 for it all. The case is a PC-V1000 Plus. I wasn't sure what I was getting at first, but this thing is seriously ahead of it's time. The door latches are pretty cool.

Do you guys consider the 8800gts g92 too new for this period? I'm not sure the 256 vram on these 7800GT will cut it for some games.

Do most stock ram heatsinks use the same size thermal pads? 0.5mm? I wanted to replace them on all these old sticks. I pulled a few off to check ICs and they're pretty bad.


----------



## rhkcommander959

I use a gtx 560 ti on my setup. Nothing wrong with an 8800.

Run the cpu delidded, just be careful not to chip the ic or break a transistor off. Some people cut a rubber band into cubes and put them on to help prevent that. Also avoid getting TIM into them.

With modern routing or reservoirs you can reclaim the 5 25 bays, at least 1 of them.

That pump is essentially an mcp600, which has better discharge than a 350.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bfedorov11*
> 
> I paid $100 for it all. The case is a PC-V1000 Plus. I wasn't sure what I was getting at first, but this thing is seriously ahead of it's time. The door latches are pretty cool.
> 
> Do you guys consider the 8800gts g92 too new for this period? I'm not sure the 256 vram on these 7800GT will cut it for some games.
> 
> Do most stock ram heatsinks use the same size thermal pads? 0.5mm? I wanted to replace them on all these old sticks. I pulled a few off to check ICs and they're pretty bad.


Nice man! Good loot for a bill. 8800 series is right in the prime of s939. I did sli 7800GT, then single 8800gtx. Good times.

EDIT: I bought a $25 beige box off CL quite a few months ago n now, that came with a basically new 8800gtx. Sitting in a box near me. My old one was a blast to OC back in the day.


----------



## zila

That's a real sweet little rig. Great buy.


----------



## xzamples

any suggestions for an upgrade from my Athlon 64 X2 3800+?

my mobo http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813186115

mainly used for gaming

can you also suggest a gpu that wouldn't bottleneck with the cpu


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xzamples*
> 
> any suggestions for an upgrade from my Athlon 64 X2 3800+?
> 
> my mobo http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813186115
> 
> mainly used for gaming
> 
> can you also suggest a gpu that wouldn't bottleneck with the cpu


Pretty much everything is going to bottleneck a dual core now, You waited this long might as well wait until AM4. AFA GPU if your looking for cheap tahiti is still more than enough for any 939.


----------



## bfedorov11

Getting around to testing this thing before I take it apart. It just beeps.. one (long?) beep, pause, repeats. No lights on usb keyboard. No video out. Has 3 of 4 lights on the bottom of the mobo. Ram is green. New battery, cmos, went to one stick, tried all 4 slots. Going to take it apart. What should I try?


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bfedorov11*
> 
> Getting around to testing this thing before I take it apart. It just beeps.. one (long?) beep, pause, repeats. No lights on usb keyboard. No video out. Has 3 of 4 lights on the bottom of the mobo. Ram is green. New battery, cmos, went to one stick, tried all 4 slots. Going to take it apart. What should I try?


IIRC my Expert did the same thing. It was the graphics card not correctly installed.
Do those 3 lights go like 3-2-1 and then 3 again?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bfedorov11*
> 
> Getting around to testing this thing before I take it apart. It just beeps.. one (long?) beep, pause, repeats. No lights on usb keyboard. No video out. Has 3 of 4 lights on the bottom of the mobo. Ram is green. New battery, cmos, went to one stick, tried all 4 slots. Going to take it apart. What should I try?


1 beep - video card or slot.

I always keep a pci vid card around for this reason.


----------



## bfedorov11

Minor setback.. Previous owner used washers on everything and all the screw were over-tightened. Ended up stripping a screw next to the case wall and the tray threads stripped since it is thin aluminum. The mount screw would just fall back into the tray when I applied pressure to it. Got it out with a punch, but now I have a screw and mount stuck to the board. I can't even fit a razer blade under the screw or washer. Any ideas or just cut the threads and leave it?



Just noticed this.. looks like a popped cap. Could it still work?


----------



## rhkcommander959

vice grip on the hex-head standoff, philips screwdriver on top. is it seized/cross threaded? Sometimes I've worked on or bought computers where people mix up m3 and 6-32 since they are both so common. An m3 in a 6-32 fits loosely, but I've seen 6-32 forced in on a m3. Carefully torqueing it can snap the head off to get it out, or I would use a dremel cutoff wheel after taping the area with multiple layers, cut away the standoff from the back until it falls out

Cap looks bad but the mobo could still work as is. Can always recap it


----------



## bfedorov11

Trying to boot it now.. I get video with a 7900gs but cannot get to the bios. It just shuts off after a few seconds. Had lights on the keyboard with usb but not with the adapter. I've tried two usb keyboards with and without the ps2 adapter. Tried a few different sticks of ram in dimm1 or 2. I am using a newer psu, 4 pin and molex is connected.

Can I use the adapter to do the proper bios reset or do I need an actual ps2 kb?

::also swapped the sli jumpers to single. Not using the 4 pin floppy power cable on the board though. Manual says it isn't needed to boot.


----------



## Blameless

PS/2 adapter is fine.

Burst cap doesn't look like it's in a critical area, but I would replace it, if you have the tools to do so.


----------



## bfedorov11

Got it. Tried a few more sticks. I was mostly trying a single stick in dimm2 and it needed both of one set to boot.

Tomorrow should be fun







That's all bh5 on the right.. and a set of redline utt. My original set of 2x256 3500 level 2.


----------



## SwishaMane

Theres a few of us here that could help you re-cap the board if you can't. That ONE cap is bad, but like mentioned, doesn't look critical to overall functionality. Not important enough to keep board from booting anyway. What ratings are the cap? I may have one.


----------



## bfedorov11

I should be able to get it with an iron. It's a 6.3v 1000uf.


----------



## bfedorov11

Is it even possible to get XP to a point where you can play games on it or am I wasting my time? Windows update doesn't work. IE6 doesn't work anymore. Can't update IE because I'm on SP1. It is an endless cycle of nope. I am resorting to downloading service packs from random websites.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bfedorov11*
> 
> Is it even possible to get XP to a point where you can play games on it or am I wasting my time? Windows update doesn't work. IE6 doesn't work anymore. Can't update IE because I'm on SP1. It is an endless cycle of nope. I am resorting to downloading service packs from random websites.


You can download SPs from Microsoft's website (or at least some months ago I could). So i would have a look there.
I used to game on XP until late 2014 on my 939 machine so yeah I would say it's possible if you only run DX9 compatible games.


----------



## Blameless

As long as the hardware is old enough to have drivers (and most hardware not made after 2012 or so does), XP, XP x64, and it's Server variants will run most DX9/OGL titles just fine.


----------



## rhkcommander959

Dx9 is fine. Porting 10 and 11 never occured afaik. Opengl is supported I think.

7 ran great on my 939 setup, at the time I only had 2gb of ram though. If I had an asus mobo I'd rock the 16gb combo on 7 happily.


----------



## SwishaMane

Win7 runs great on s939, even if you only have 2GB RAM.


----------



## gasparspeed

Yeah Win 7 runs great on 939 too (even tho i experienced massive slowdowns due to ultra-slow RAM and IDE HDD so just use decent RAM and storage)


----------



## Blameless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Win7 runs great on s939, even if you only have 2GB RAM.


That depends entirely on what you are doing with the system.

Anyway, on stuff as old as 939, I rarely see the point in running OSes newer than XP x64 or Server 2003 R2.


----------



## bfedorov11

I ended up installing 7 on another disk and later went back to try to fix XP. Microsoft only has links for 64-bit pro or at least I couldn't find anything for 32-bit.

http://windows-xp-service-pack-2.soft32.com/
http://windows-xp-service-pack-3.soft32.com/

Those worked. First time I installed sp3 it didn't take for some reason and I didn't notice till later. Sp3 is a must now. A few things wouldn't install without it.

I got a 7900GTO for $19 shipped the other day. Seems like a pretty fun card. I think I'm going to grab another and sli them.

Any recommendations for nvidia drivers / overclocking software for xp? Any good overclocking guides for the dfi boards?


----------



## rhkcommander959

Ocz Tony guide is on here somewhere, it's got dfi pretty well covered.


----------



## mattliston

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bfedorov11*
> 
> I ended up installing 7 on another disk and later went back to try to fix XP. Microsoft only has links for 64-bit pro or at least I couldn't find anything for 32-bit.
> 
> http://windows-xp-service-pack-2.soft32.com/
> http://windows-xp-service-pack-3.soft32.com/
> 
> Those worked. First time I installed sp3 it didn't take for some reason and I didn't notice till later. Sp3 is a must now. A few things wouldn't install without it.
> 
> *I got a 7900GTO for $19 shipped the other day.* Seems like a pretty fun card. I think I'm going to grab another and sli them.
> 
> Any recommendations for nvidia drivers / overclocking software for xp? Any good overclocking guides for the dfi boards?


they were good cards in their time, but rather frequent to fail. good ol bake for the memory errors

though if the card still works now, its been repaired at some point, or never had the problem, which is fantastic! a single 7900GT did much better than my old 6600 SLI setup


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> I ended up installing 7 on another disk and later went back to try to fix XP. Microsoft only has links for 64-bit pro or at least I couldn't find anything for 32-bit.
> 
> http://windows-xp-service-pack-2.soft32.com/
> http://windows-xp-service-pack-3.soft32.com/
> 
> Those worked. First time I installed sp3 it didn't take for some reason and I didn't notice till later. Sp3 is a must now. A few things wouldn't install without it.
> 
> I got a 7900GTO for $19 shipped the other day. Seems like a pretty fun card. I think I'm going to grab another and sli them.
> 
> Any recommendations for nvidia drivers / overcl


182.50 driver for a single card.
197.45 driver for SLI.

For overclocking:
Rivatuner for vid card.
Clockgen for CPU.


----------



## bfedorov11

I had a second 7900gto lined up on ebay but the shipping calculator wouldn't work. BFG, in box, all accessories, seller said it was brand new never used, $15 and shipping









It sucks all pictures are gone from old posts on xtremesystems. The DFI 3.3vmem / psu mod is on there and is now useless. Also the fix for the 5v jumper was all pictures.

Which brings me to my next question.. are these boards safe to run with the 5v jumper and utt? Would Ocz ddr booster be a smarter option? I can only find people asking about running one on these boards.

I believe this is the guide. I can't view it. "Insufficient Permissions" or is that just me???

http://www.overclock.net/t/38268/info-dfi-nf4-dr-motherboard-an-introduction/0_40


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bfedorov11*
> 
> I had a second 7900gto lined up on ebay but the shipping calculator wouldn't work. BFG, in box, all accessories, seller said it was brand new never used, $15 and shipping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It sucks all pictures are gone from old posts on xtremesystems. The DFI 3.3vmem / psu mod is on there and is now useless. Also the fix for the 5v jumper was all pictures.
> 
> Which brings me to my next question.. are these boards safe to run with the 5v jumper and utt? Would Ocz ddr booster be a smarter option? I can only find people asking about running one on these boards.
> 
> I believe this is the guide. I can't view it. "Insufficient Permissions" or is that just me???
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/38268/info-dfi-nf4-dr-motherboard-an-introduction/0_40


I do not have the permissions either.









I run 3.6-3.7v on all of my BH-5 without issue. I do have an OCZ booster but have never had the need to use it on this board.


----------



## Blameless

UTT is usually revised CH-5, which has a bit lower limits than BH-5. Still, they will handle in excess of 3.3v.


----------



## gasparspeed

Hey guys, I just rebuilt my 939 (again) and i'm having trouble with my DFI NF4 Expert POSTing. It just won't post no matter what I do.
It gives me no beep codes and the 4 LED error codes get stuck at 3 LEDs (CPU Detected), fans spin but nothing on screen.
I tried lots of different RAM combos (TCCD kits, BH-5s, Microns, in multiple slot/kit configs) and multiple GPUs (all of the RAM and GPUS do work), CMOS reset via jumper and Battery removal, but still get nothing.
Any ideas? I'm pretty frustrated right now








I was guessing it was the RAM/RAM slots because it was doing the same when running with no RAM (still no beeps) but IDK. Full build is in my Sig.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Try this. Lemme know how you make out.
Quote:


> The proper Clear CMOS recovery. Not to be confused with a Normal CMOS Clear.
> 
> You can not use a USB keyboard for this procedure. You must use a PS2 keyboard.
> 
> You will need your manual to find the jumpers that must be changed.
> 
> If you skip or miss any step you must start again since the results will not be valid.
> Remove power from the rig by pulling the plug or switching the PSU off.
> 
> Move the PC Speaker jumper to the ON position.
> 
> Remove the Battery.
> 
> Move the CMOS jumper to CLEAR.
> 
> Press the Start Button on the case or motherboard to drain the capacitors.
> 
> You may leave the board in this condition for as long as it takes to clear the CMOS. If a short 30 second clear or a 15 minute clear doesn't work, try an 8 hour clear.
> 
> Plug in a PS2 Keyboard.
> 
> Put one stick of RAM in the slot marked DIMM2.
> 
> Move the CMOS jumper to Normal.
> 
> Replace the Battery.
> 
> Press and hold the Insert Key on the Keyboard.
> 
> Apply power to the rig by plugging the power in or using the switch on the PSU.
> 
> Press the Start Button to power the rig up.
> 
> When you hear the BEEP, release the Insert Key and press the Delete Key on the Keyboard.
> 
> Once you enter the BIOS set the DATE and TIME then Load Optimized Defaults.
> 
> Save and Exit.
> 
> Enter the BIOS again and set it up the way you want for your particular rig.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Try this. Lemme know how you make out.


Just tried it (waiting 30 mins for CMOS to clear) but when going into the "Hold Insert and power on PC" step, it doesn't beep, it keeps going 3 Error LEDs and nothing else.
Also, i noticed the Power light on the case flashes constantly. Just exactly as it was doing before this CMOS Clear.
Just realized i wasn't running now a GPU but i guess it should have beep'd anyways right? Or did i screw up the CMOS clear because i hadn't got a GPU in?


----------



## Mr.Scott

You need a GPU to post, therefore you need a GPU to do the clear. Board will do nothing if it registers a missing component.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> You need a GPU to post, therefore you need a GPU to do the clear. Board will do nothing if it registers a missing component.


Well, just tried again 30 mins (this time with a working GPU) and still got the same error.
I'm going to try again just in case i did something wrong...


----------



## bfedorov11

In my search for a guide I found this..
Quote:


> "2. If you find it difficult to even get going at all and have an old stick PC2100 or PC2700 > put in Orange slot @2 and after clear CMOS crank the board and enter bios and load optimized defaults."


http://forums.vr-zone.com/hardware-depot/20888-dfi-nf4-ultra-d-problems-fixes-tweaks.html

Which is what happened in my case. 3 out of 4 lights, but I had one beep. It was some crappy corsair value ram that got it going. I needed two sticks though.. dimm2 and 4.

About the ocz booster, there was a known issue with the 5v jumper on these boards killing utt/ch5 sticks. I know it is low percentage, but the chances of finding more of this ram are so slim.

Found my answer though. Ocz ddr booster works on all dfi nf4 models.. recommended 20+4 psu. Plug the 4 pin into the mobo. It was tested up to 3.8v.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?39907-OCZ-DDR-Diagnostic-Booster-Works-on-these-Motherboards&p=885766&viewfull=1#post885766


----------



## Mr.Scott

There was never a question whether the booster would work or not, it does, just never needed it. All my DFI boards work properly up to 4v vdimm.


----------



## gasparspeed

Well, i'm back, I did leave the PC in the CMOS clear state (without battery and power) during the whole week but after following again all the CMOS reset steps it still does the same. However, now the harddrives (IDK if it's one of them or both) clearly emit like a kind of click , a short one every second, sounds exactly like a clock.

So i'm starting to think that somehow i killed all of the DIMM slots maybe?
EDIT: also, to turn it off i need to hold the power button for some secs, like if it was booting to Windows on the background (and not instantly shutting down like when you press the power button while being in the BIOS)


----------



## Mr.Scott

Sounds like a power issue to me.
If your PSU is decent, I'd trash that board. Or replace the caps if you're up to it.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Sounds like a power issue to me.
> If your PSU is decent, I'd trash that board. Or replace the caps if you're up to it.


I know one cap is blown or at least it looks like, actually it's pretty close to the RAM VRM area, it has some white-cream-ish coloured hairy thing just stuck on top of the cap (just in the lines drawn that break when it goes bad), and that stuff looks like it's stuck between the inside of the cap itself and outside and it's kinda bulged a bit.
PSU is not very good too, not even decent-ish (I should replace it but no money :/ ), so if it's a PSU issue, a better PSU should solve the problem, right?
I could try another decent-ish PSU i have around.

This is the cap that looks kinda bad (ref. pic, not my board):


----------



## Mr.Scott

DFI's are as picky about PSU's as they are ram. I'd try a good PSU before anything else.


----------



## Kryton

The cap you pictured shoudn't be hard to replace or find a replacement for.
If the cap is going out as you indicated could be at least a partial cause of your problems.

I'd follow Mr. Scott's suggestion and see about getting the cap replaced before it really goes out, the possibility of it trashing the board when it does is too great to ignore for long.


----------



## Poser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> I know one cap is blown or at least it looks like, actually it's pretty close to the RAM VRM area, it has some white-cream-ish coloured hairy thing just stuck on top of the cap (just in the lines drawn that break when it goes bad), and that stuff looks like it's stuck between the inside of the cap itself and outside and it's kinda bulged a bit.
> PSU is not very good too, not even decent-ish (I should replace it but no money :/ ), so if it's a PSU issue, a better PSU should solve the problem, right?
> I could try another decent-ish PSU i have around.
> 
> This is the cap that looks kinda bad (ref. pic, not my board):


Super late on this... but try pulling everything off the board but one stick of ram and try to boot into BIOS. Try each slot.

I remember that my DFI (rubix noob in my sig) was a compete b!tch about RAM chips, slot population and timings...but when I hit the right combo, man could it clock a chip


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Poser*
> 
> Super late on this... but try pulling everything off the board but one stick of ram and try to boot into BIOS. Try each slot.
> 
> I remember that my DFI (rubix noob in my sig) was a compete b!tch about RAM chips, slot population and timings...but when I hit the right combo, man could it clock a chip


Already tried that (i guess you mean take everything except CPU, 1 stick of RAM and GPU).
Tried with multiple kits of different types of RAM on all the slots and combinations i could think of(TCCDs, BH-5s, Microns, and yesterday also tried some Samsung TCB3 (if that makes any sense? thats what the chips said, anyways, random modern DDR-400 module) and still got the same.
Did 4 times the "DFI CMOS Clear" thing, even waiting a whole week for the CMOS to discharge/reset, nothing.
Also tried with a different PSU, and got the same results.
So i guess my final hope is that either something is wrong with the build (going to fully rebuild it this weekend) or the cap is causing the problem (IDK how to replace it and i don't think there are any shops here that would do it).
If it's not one of those things then the board is dead for sure. What a shame, didn't have even time to mess with it and I'm pretty sure there's like just a couple of those in the whole country :'(
I'm really sad now... Well, i guess i'll have to go back to the NF4 Infinity...


----------



## Poser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Already tried that (i guess you mean take everything except CPU, 1 stick of RAM and GPU).
> Tried with multiple kits of different types of RAM on all the slots and combinations i could think of(TCCDs, BH-5s, Microns, and yesterday also tried some Samsung TCB3 (if that makes any sense? thats what the chips said, anyways, random modern DDR-400 module) and still got the same.
> Did 4 times the "DFI CMOS Clear" thing, even waiting a whole week for the CMOS to discharge/reset, nothing.
> Also tried with a different PSU, and got the same results.
> So i guess my final hope is that either something is wrong with the build (going to fully rebuild it this weekend) or the cap is causing the problem (IDK how to replace it and i don't think there are any shops here that would do it).
> If it's not one of those things then the board is dead for sure. What a shame, didn't have even time to mess with it and I'm pretty sure there's like just a couple of those in the whole country :'(
> I'm really sad now... Well, i guess i'll have to go back to the NF4 Infinity...


Yup, that what I was suggesting. That stinks...

I believe I was running samsung UCCC if my memory serves correctly.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Already tried that (i guess you mean take everything except CPU, 1 stick of RAM and GPU).
> Tried with multiple kits of different types of RAM on all the slots and combinations i could think of(TCCDs, BH-5s, Microns, and yesterday also tried some Samsung TCB3 (if that makes any sense? thats what the chips said, anyways, random modern DDR-400 module) and still got the same.
> Did 4 times the "DFI CMOS Clear" thing, even waiting a whole week for the CMOS to discharge/reset, nothing.
> Also tried with a different PSU, and got the same results.
> So i guess my final hope is that either something is wrong with the build (going to fully rebuild it this weekend) or the cap is causing the problem (IDK how to replace it and i don't think there are any shops here that would do it).
> If it's not one of those things then the board is dead for sure. What a shame, didn't have even time to mess with it and I'm pretty sure there's like just a couple of those in the whole country :'(
> I'm really sad now... Well, i guess i'll have to go back to the NF4 Infinity...


Don't know if it's cost efficient for you but, If you send it to me I can probably get it going for you again.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Don't know if it's cost efficient for you but, If you send it to me I can probably get it going for you again.


Probably it won't be cost efficient, since shipping would be like 50€+, and i don't really want to risk having to go thru all the paper work on customs (and sometimes they can force you to pay crazy taxes, like 20% of the object's value and whatnot). But thank you anyways for the offer








I guess i'll have to start looking at some tutorials on soldering (and could try doing cap replacements on some random dead board).
Other than that, any other idea for trying to revive this board? I mean, it was working perfectly with the same cap blown (same PSU, RAM, everything), it just stopped working after moving the whole thing to the new case, even tho before moving it i did some ghetto-modding stuff to it's heatsink bracked that involved cutting the bracket screws and finally ended up replacing them with other ones, but i don't think that's the reason it doesn't detects any RAM module (also no warning beeps, it should beep too right?)


----------



## Mr.Scott

Yes, you should be getting beep codes. That in itself tells me the board may not be salvageable. That single cap is probably not the whole problem.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Yes, you should be getting beep codes. That in itself tells me the board may not be salvageable. That single cap is probably not the whole problem.


In this case you don't have anything to lose by trying to replace the cap for the purpose of learning how to solder - It's a skill you'll find comes in handy sometimes.

Good thing is you may actually fix the problem and get it running again by trying so.... Look into researching how to solder in the first place, get some good equipment for soldering and go for it. That's how I picked it up and Mr. Scott can tell you since I did that I've fixed a few boards and scored some good fleabay fixer-upper deals that I got running with a simple soldering repair.

In a couple of cases (3 AN7's







) a re-capping of the boards fixed them and was well worth the trouble to do.

Nothing but "good for you" will come of it even if you can't fix that particular board.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> In this case you don't have anything to lose by trying to replace the cap for the purpose of learning how to solder - It's a skill you'll find comes in handy sometimes.
> 
> Good thing is you may actually fix the problem and get it running again by trying so.... Look into researching how to solder in the first place, get some good equipment for soldering and go for it. That's how I picked it up and Mr. Scott can tell you since I did that I've fixed a few boards and scored some good fleabay fixer-upper deals that I got running with a simple soldering repair.
> 
> In a couple of cases (3 AN7's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) a re-capping of the boards fixed them and was well worth the trouble to do.
> 
> Nothing but "good for you" will come of it even if you can't fix that particular board.


I totally agree.


----------



## rhkcommander959

With several DFI motherboards I have noticed that some traces or contacts between the CPU and memory are damaged, either by excessive seating force on the memory or the heat sink being gargantuan and flexing the board. I have one like this, and pushing on the back of the board to flex it out gets it up and running again.

I forgot about this one time and wondered why mine was suddenly being a SOB when I moved it into another case. Watching the debug LEDs it was all randomish. An hour or so later I remembered the flexing and pushed it from the back while it was in a case with access holes I had cut for routing wires, backplates, etc. Pushing on the memory area helped improve the LED codes until Voila, all better. The problem and cure are repeatable thankfully. I do run 4x1gb sticks in that motherboard but now I wonder if that issue is holding the memory back... Either way, I OC'd them as hard or slightly more than I could find on other OCs in reviews


----------



## Poser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> With several DFI motherboards I have noticed that some traces or contacts between the CPU and memory are damaged, either by excessive seating force on the memory or the heat sink being gargantuan and flexing the board. I have one like this, and pushing on the back of the board to flex it out gets it up and running again.
> 
> I forgot about this one time and wondered why mine was suddenly being a SOB when I moved it into another case. Watching the debug LEDs it was all randomish. An hour or so later I remembered the flexing and pushed it from the back while it was in a case with access holes I had cut for routing wires, backplates, etc. Pushing on the memory area helped improve the LED codes until Voila, all better. The problem and cure are repeatable thankfully. I do run 4x1gb sticks in that motherboard but now I wonder if that issue is holding the memory back... Either way, I OC'd them as hard or slightly more than I could find on other OCs in reviews


2T was my major limitation when populating all four dimm slots. I gotta say, I loved my expert....it let me run this $h!t out of my delidded opteron on air.


----------



## rhkcommander959

I dont think I ever had a dual core that couldnt do 3 delidded with my dfis. Never had as much memory pickiness on my cfx3200s as the nvidia based ones. With my peltier I topped out at 3.25 or so, cant rembmer if its a 165 opty or a 3800xc2 but my bet is it was the x2. Soonish I hope to try and push further, with am2 I had a 5000x2 brisbane at 3.4 on the same setup


----------



## Poser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> I dont think I ever had a dual core that couldnt do 3 delidded with my dfis. Never had as much memory pickiness on my cfx3200s as the nvidia based ones. With my peltier I topped out at 3.25 or so, cant rembmer if its a 165 opty or a 3800xc2 but my bet is it was the x2. Soonish I hope to try and push furher, with am2 I had a 5000x2 brisbane at 3.4 on the same setup


That is some *HEAT* ...nice


----------



## Jokesterwild

Seeing this thread reminded me of my Opteron 165. Great 939 proc. Spent most of its time with me @ 2.9ghz. Found an old 3dmark06 benchmark with an 8800GTX









http://www.3dmark.com/3dm06/3547273

I still have an FX-53 and an Opteron... and even a Sempron of some sort.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> With several DFI motherboards I have noticed that some traces or contacts between the CPU and memory are damaged, either by excessive seating force on the memory or the heat sink being gargantuan and flexing the board. I have one like this, and pushing on the back of the board to flex it out gets it up and running again.
> 
> I forgot about this one time and wondered why mine was suddenly being a SOB when I moved it into another case. Watching the debug LEDs it was all randomish. An hour or so later I remembered the flexing and pushed it from the back while it was in a case with access holes I had cut for routing wires, backplates, etc. Pushing on the memory area helped improve the LED codes until Voila, all better. The problem and cure are repeatable thankfully. I do run 4x1gb sticks in that motherboard but now I wonder if that issue is holding the memory back... Either way, I OC'd them as hard or slightly more than I could find on other OCs in reviews


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Poser*
> 
> 2T was my major limitation when populating all four dimm slots. I gotta say, I loved my expert....it let me run this $h!t out of my delidded opteron on air.


Biggest limitation with running 4 sticks is it automatically defaults you to DDR333. That forces you to overclock the FSB just to get back to DDR400.


----------



## seaFs

AFAIR 4 sticks @ 333MHz was a limitatoin of early Athlons, the E revisions do that with 400MHz.


----------



## ShrimpBrime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> AFAIR 4 sticks @ 333MHz was a limitatoin of early Athlons, the E revisions do that with 400MHz.


It's not really about speed with AMD as it would be really tight timings with high speeds. The early to later Athlons had pretty decent latency even at lower mhz.


----------



## agentx007

If anyone here plans to play in Battlefield 1 using Win 7 x64 and OC'ed FX-60 or Opteron... here's a heads up with FX-62 :



Basicly : Don't do it, it's unplayable on MP.
In SP is better, but still not quite enough (at least for me).
Still, DOOM (2016) and Gears of War 4 should work... that last one barely tho (+ you need to hack Win 10 x64 installer for Gears







).


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agentx007*
> 
> If anyone here plans to play in Battlefield 1 using Win 7 x64 and OC'ed FX-60 or Opteron... here's a heads up with FX-62 :
> 
> 
> 
> Basicly : Don't do it, it's unplayable on MP.
> In SP is better, but still not quite enough (at least for me).
> Still, DOOM (2016) and Gears of War 4 should work... barely (in that second case, if you hack Win 10 x64 installer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


It reminds me of when my FX-60 was my main PC and I used to play BF3 on 64-player maps @ 800x600 (scaled down 75%) Lowest settings with a HD 7470. I was jumping thru the whole server, not because I had lag/bad internet but because of the PC


----------



## rhkcommander959

Looks like you need at least 8gb of mem too. Impressive it ran that well.

I still need to get a working asus board, I have the 16gb of mem to try..


----------



## mightyena

Hi, it's me again,
I was planning on delidding my Athlon 64 X2 3800+ to see if it would run a little better (the thermal paste under my Opteron was completely dried up so I thought the A64 probably would be too)

I also got my hands on an Athlon 64 3000+ (Venice) just to use as a test CPU to make sure the board is still in good nick in case the 3800+ wouldn't boot, however I've run into an odd problem:

The system with the 3000+ in, often gets stuck part way through the POST (The little LED display on the board often gets stuck on C3), and when it does POST, will not load an operating system. The copy of Windows 7 installed goes through the boot screen, and then just displays a blank screen instead of the login screen, and using several linux live USBs produced the same result - the boot animation plays, and then just goes to a blank screen. I've left it for over 1 hour and it just sits there with no drive activity.

When trying the UBCD and after hitting the reset button after Windows 7 failed to boot, I also discovered that the keyboard does not work once the POST has completed (It works fine in the BIOS and during the POST screen, but after the system proceeds from that point the num lock light goes out and it no longer accepts input, for example the Windows 7 recovery menu just counts down and boots 'startup repair' no matter how many times I mash the down arrow on the keyboard).

Removing the 3000+ and replacing it with either the Opteron or X2 3800+ fixes all these issues, and Windows (or any live USB) will boot successfully, and the keyboard functiuons as normal.

I'm assuming that this means the CPU is dodgy, but I thought I'd get a second opinion from some more knowledgable folk on here, especially since this board seems to have been abused horribly in its past - when I first got it, it wouldn't detect USB keyboards at all, and would sometimes just lock up. Replacing the chipset and VRM heatsinks fixed the lockup problem, and as soon as I plugged in a PS2 keyboark, the USB one started working and has done ever since.

The specs of the system are:
CPU - Athlon 64 3000+ (venice) / Athlon 64 X2 3800+ (Toledo) / Opteron 175
Mobo - Abit Fatal1ty AN8 (not the SLI version)
GPU - XFX Radeon HD6870
RAM - 4x1GB Kingston DDR400 (running at DDR333)
PSU - Corsair VX450W


----------



## Mr.Scott

IMO, the 3000+ is suspect. They're a $5 CPU right now. I'd just throw it away.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mightyena*
> 
> ...The system with the 3000+ in, often gets stuck part way through the POST (The little LED display on the board often gets stuck on C3), and when it does POST, will not load an operating system....


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*


Ni !


----------



## cdoublejj

Using the 939 system with a GTX480 as a space heater.


----------



## Kryton

Having fun and keeping the house warm at the same time.


----------



## theCanadian

What does this mean? It POSTS, I can get into the CMOS, but can't get passed here. Just swapped my opteron 165 for an FX 55 chip. My mobo says it supports FX chips, so what gives?


----------



## Mr.Scott

Clear the CMOS and load optimized defaults. Symbols like that means bios corruption. Re-flash the bios and check your ram. That is what most likely corrupted it. You probably just changed chips and never reset the bios, so the new chip didn't like your settings left from the old one.


----------



## theCanadian

Well, it wouldn't POST, so I cleared the BIOS, then this happened. But I can try again.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Yes, try again. You may have to re-flash the bios from bootable DOS media to get it going again.


----------



## SwishaMane

So I've decided to upgrade my HTPC setup when Ryzen comes out and I can pass down my 8350 16GB combo with the s939. I have an oldschool Antec beigebox case and a stock 8800gtx. I think it'd make a great side setup for fun.

This is a photo I linked forever ago, the PC I picked up for $25. I think it needs a s939 8800gtx setup.

BTW, I owe the BeigeBox Club some mods on this box. lol


----------



## Hueristic

My 7950GX2 finally gave up the Ghost! It was sitting in a system in the living room for company to browse on for soo long I can't even remember!








This should be a fun thread.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1621621/1075t-shenanigans-cheeky-and-fun-of-course#post_25800305


----------



## rhkcommander959

those were neat, I always remembered being envious of them when they first came out. RIP


----------



## gasparspeed

Talking bout 939s and 8800GTXs. Now i'm sad since my DFI Expert looks like it's really dead and I had to RMA my 8800GTX since It died too, and got a 8800GT as a replacement but it's also dead









Dang. Looks like I really can't have a nice 939 setup. Every single time I manage to kill something somehow.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Talking bout 939s and 8800GTXs. Now i'm sad since my DFI Expert looks like it's really dead and I had to RMA my 8800GTX since It died too, and got a 8800GT as a replacement but it's also dead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dang. Looks like I really can't have a nice 939 setup. Every single time I manage to kill something somehow.


That was my initial s939 experience back when it was popular. Gear either works, but wont clock good, or its dead from being clocked too hard from someone else... lol

Once i finally start transplanting guts into the beigebox, I plan to use this rig for something related to music production. Maybe a VST machine separate from the main rig, or something... That 16GB of RAM REALLY gives me options in the 64-bit world, BUT, the CPU and RAM speeds are whats going to kill me.


----------



## rhkcommander959

I have a few nvidia based dfi boards, not working. What was the main culprit on them dying? If it was caps I would try to fix them, if the chipset has cold joints or something I could try to reflow it too...

My amd cfx3200s are still going strong minus one with weak traces by the memory, and the other being cold bugged (I just hit reset after 2 seconds on boot and its fine)


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> I have a few nvidia based dfi boards, not working. What was the main culprit on them dying? If it was caps I would try to fix them, if the chipset has cold joints or something I could try to reflow it too...
> 
> My amd cfx3200s are still going strong minus one with weak traces by the memory, and the other being cold bugged (I just hit reset after 2 seconds on boot and its fine)


It does have a bad cap on the I/O Panel USB port zone but it already was bad when i got it and still worked... The other thing i'm suspecting is exactly what you mention on the CFX3200, weak memory traces (board does power up and recognizes CPU when installed and uninstalled but doesn't recognize ANY RAM in any combination or channel)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> That was my initial s939 experience back when it was popular. Gear either works, but wont clock good, or its dead from being clocked too hard from someone else... lol
> 
> Once i finally start transplanting guts into the beigebox, I plan to use this rig for something related to music production. Maybe a VST machine separate from the main rig, or something... That 16GB of RAM REALLY gives me options in the 64-bit world, BUT, the CPU and RAM speeds are whats going to kill me.


I'm pretty sure this board wasn't really used for high overclocks, tho maybe it had a very cheapo PSU which damaged the thing or something...
The board was bought used and it had overclock profiles saved for the X2 4400+ it came with, but it was only like 2.54Ghz @ auto VCore, not much (i got it to 3.1Ghz on my FX-60 lol). Right now, who knows what's wrong with it.

VST (afaik) doesn't really needs much power, well, i've only tested with 1 VST instrument alone, not multiple ones at the same time but still with 16GB of RAM, even with a slow CPU/RAM combo, you can still do things... That beigebox is just asking for mods, it could be a very nice fun-box


----------



## Kryton

A bad cap no matter where it is on the board can do some damage - When I scored a pair of NF2 Infinitiy boards earlier I did a quick test and waited until I had the caps to fix them before trying to actually run them.

I didn't see any sense in risking them since those are hard to come by now and both looked new when delivered - These are some beautiful boards and just love the look they have, esp since they are in excellent shape.

Find and replace the cap, that may fix your issues provided real damage hasn't already been done - And as a side note I've noted for some reason X2 4400's tend to be crappy chips.
Most I've seen records on don't compare to what others have done, have one myself and it's the same way. Needs a ton of voltage just to get anywhere but my X2 4800 is a different story.









PSU does make a difference with a DFI, they are picky with PSU's just like they are with RAM but that's just a DFI trait.

BTW I"m currently running my CFX3200 with a Opty 180 and it's doing OK.


----------



## rhkcommander959

I usually just have to push against the back of the ram area to get it working again. Solid stable, unless you install/remove memory. Probably too much force inserting the sticks, I always support the back now but the damage is done


----------



## Kryton

That seems to be a weak/bad solder joint due to the solder at the joint getting loose or micro-fractured over time.
Simply remelting the solder spots to the RAM slots might fix it.

If I had it that's what I would try.


----------



## SwishaMane

Borrow a heat gun and re-flow the memory area. Make sure to heat the entire board evenly before drilling heat into the memory area. Dont want a warped board...


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Borrow a heat gun and re-flow the memory area. Make sure to heat the entire board evenly before drilling heat into the memory area. Dont want a warped board...


If you have a soldering station like I do then you could use it's desoldering tool to do that without any risk of warping the board.... PCB bubbling or burned spots can be done but not warpage.
However with the heat gun you'll have to watch CAREFULLY since it would heat up a much larger area at once - That's when the possibility of warpage comes in along with the other listed possible issues.

You can even try it with a hairdryer, it's roughly the same thing as a heat gun and yes you can melt solder or even warp or burn a board with one too. I've done that before when I had nothing else to use and managed to desolder a few caps but no way I could put them back like I can now.

If you don't have a soldering workstation I'd get one - I'm constantly finding ways to use it and it's paid for itself several times over since I got it.

As an example:
Just yesterday I fixed an old NES console that was bought as a tinkering project, namely for parts or repair and fixed it.








Now I can play NES games if I want instead of paying way too much for the new classic version.


----------



## rhkcommander959

I have an adjustable heat gun, I will give it a shot, maybe this weekend. I've reflowed xbox 360s with great success, never burnt a pcb - that must be pretty hot?

I think the heat gun goes down to 440F, I also have a digital thermometer gun to keep an eye on temps.

Thanks for the advice, never considered a bad joint. That would be preferable to bad traces by far


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> I have an adjustable heat gun, I will give it a shot, maybe this weekend. I've reflowed xbox 360s with great success, never burnt a pcb - that must be pretty hot?
> 
> I think the heat gun goes down to 440F, I also have a digital thermometer gun to keep an eye on temps.
> 
> Thanks for the advice, never considered a bad joint. That would be preferable to bad traces by far


Keep us informed on this, I have a DFI that was failing mem slots but have not been inspired enough to try to repair, maybe your success will spur me on.


----------



## rhkcommander959

wish me luck, I narrowed it down to the two slots nearest the CPU socket. I'll let you know how it goes


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> wish me luck, I narrowed it down to the two slots nearest the CPU socket. I'll let you know how it goes


Nice. Please take some before and after shots and record what temp the plastic got to when the reflow completed.


----------



## seaFs

No, DDR400 4 slots works fine with no overclock. It's just 2T. Use a Rev. E chip and you are good to go... I don't know why you always put out the specs of the first 939 chips almost nobody uses anymore...


----------



## SwishaMane

Good luck on the board re-flow.


----------



## N2Gaming

It's been a while. Here for research figured I'd drop in and say hi.


----------



## rhkcommander959

welcome n2gaming.

Didn't have time this weekend with work, I will try this weekend


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> I have an adjustable heat gun, I will give it a shot, maybe this weekend. I've reflowed xbox 360s with great success, never burnt a pcb - that must be pretty hot?
> 
> I think the heat gun goes down to 440F, I also have a digital thermometer gun to keep an eye on temps.
> 
> Thanks for the advice, never considered a bad joint. That would be preferable to bad traces by far


Usually you want temps to be around 400F or so, solder will melt around the 390F mark and you don't need too much heat to do it. I know some solders are harder to melt such as what DFI did use on it's boards and you may run into that with the one you have, however for most any use 400F is about right to melt solder on most boards.

I'd adjust the gun to 440F and go for it, paying careful attention to the exact instant when the solder actually melts, then remove the heat at that time.

Oh yeah - Hey there N2!!


----------



## rhkcommander959

i think i will give it a practice run on a dead board just in case, but im sure it'll go well









should be able to do it this weekend, i will be extremely happy if that fixes the issues. Now if only I could get 16gb of ram working


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*
> 
> It's been a while. Here for research figured I'd drop in and say hi.


Yo, Whats up man?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> i think i will give it a practice run on a dead board just in case, but im sure it'll go well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> should be able to do it this weekend, i will be extremely happy if that fixes the issues. Now if only I could get 16gb of ram working


Someone explain the need for 16gb on a 939, I haven't needed more than 8 on am3+. Is it the big multiplayer games? Or just the cool factor, cause it is cool.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> Someone explain the need for 16gb on a 939, I haven't needed more than 8 on am3+. Is it the big multiplayer games? Or just the cool factor, cause it is cool.


Well, i'll have to admit that learning that someone managed to run 16GB of RAM on a board that is supposed to run 4GB at max is pretty cool. Also, when i had my 939 as a main PC running Win7 64-bit with "only" 4GB sometimes I managed to ge to the RAM limit and it was lagging even on the desktop... Also with Chrome RAM went bananas pretty often. 8GB would be pretty good actually, 16GB, well, why not?


----------



## rhkcommander959

I mean honestly i'd be happy with either 8 or 16, I have 4 right now and its not enough. I wish my ballistic tracers were 1gb dimms, but i have some ocz copper colored stuff that is ok

Most games are more gpu demanding than cpu, back when I used the 939 for that i was playing crysis 2. I could use the old 939 for a server or something, at 3ghz with 16gb of ram it wouldn't be a bad system







i fi can find my 3.2 stable chip all the better.


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*
> 
> It's been a while. Here for research figured I'd drop in and say hi.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yo, Whats up man?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm finally getting around to installing the 2TB system drive and cloning the 1TB over to the 2 TB.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used macrium worked like a charm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> i think i will give it a practice run on a dead board just in case, but im sure it'll go well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> should be able to do it this weekend, i will be extremely happy if that fixes the issues. Now if only I could get 16gb of ram working
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Someone explain the need for 16gb on a 939, I haven't needed more than 8 on am3+. Is it the big multiplayer games? Or just the cool factor, cause it is cool.
Click to expand...

Seriously I have never needed more than 8GB for any thing I do. I doubt I'll ever need the 4GB on my GPU









Go Falcons


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> Oh yeah - Hey there N2!!


Howdy Kryton








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> welcome n2gaming.


TY


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*
> 
> It's been a while. Here for research figured I'd drop in and say hi.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yo, Whats up man?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm finally getting around to installing the 2TB system drive and cloning the 1TB over to the 2 TB.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used macrium worked like a charm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> i think i will give it a practice run on a dead board just in case, but im sure it'll go well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> should be able to do it this weekend, i will be extremely happy if that fixes the issues. Now if only I could get 16gb of ram working
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Someone explain the need for 16gb on a 939, I haven't needed more than 8 on am3+. Is it the big multiplayer games? Or just the cool factor, cause it is cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Seriously I have never needed more than 8GB for any thing I do. I doubt I'll ever need the 4GB on my GPU







Of course it's not like I'm using Photoshop and CNC applications for manipulating shapes being edited for cutting on plasma tables. Not yet any way.









Go Falcons


----------



## SwishaMane

16GB on s939 is because we could. Nuff sed








And yes, it is cool, except the RAM runs hella hot.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*
> 
> Go Falcons


Oh, you just had to go there!


----------



## rhkcommander959

I have topped out the 12gbs of ram on my 1366 system w/ xeon 5650, it is possible if you do the right things









I would be happy with either 8 or 16. 4 was a step up but they aren't as fast as my 4x512 crucials... I could do ddr600 with fans on them


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> I have topped out the 12gbs of ram on my 1366 system w/ xeon 5650, it is possible if you do the right things
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would be happy with either 8 or 16. 4 was a step up but they aren't as fast as my 4x512 crucials... I could do ddr600 with fans on them


I once topped my 4790K's 16 gigs by just leaving Windows Update do it's thing








Also got a pair of 512 Crucials too. They do clock nice, IIRC got then to DDR550 with 2.9V and with some fast-random timings


----------



## rhkcommander959

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> I once topped my 4790K's 16 gigs by just leaving Windows Update do it's thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also got a pair of 512 Crucials too. They do clock nice, IIRC got then to DDR550 with 2.9V and with some fast-random timings


They are sweet, a lot of them died from overheating so watch it. IIRC I was doing cl 2.5 at 550, they wont match BH5 but they are damned sweet none the less


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*
> 
> Go Falcons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, you just had to go there!
Click to expand...

Yep yep, good luck.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*
> 
> Yep yep, good luck.


I think if the level headed Matty Ice shows up it will be a great close game but he has a history of choking in big situations, which he has avoided this year. Either way It's going to be a fun watch and I don't think anyone would have guessed the falcons would have been in the Superbowl this year.


----------



## Mr.Scott

The key will be the Atlanta D. Typically, hit Brady a few times and he gets happy feet and starts doing stupid crap. That is the game changer.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> The key will be the Atlanta D. Typically, hit Brady a few times and he gets happy feet and starts doing stupid crap. That is the game changer.


That is very possible! His O line had better be ready today!


----------



## Hueristic

W0W Greatest comeback in Supebowl history and into OT!!!


----------



## Mr.Scott

Atlanta was doing everything right until they went into protection mode in the 4th quarter. That was the kiss of death. Brady will pick you apart if you try to sit on a lead.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Atlanta was doing everything right until they went into protection mode in the 4th quarter. That was the kiss of death. Brady will pick you apart if you try to sit on a lead.


They also had some key injuries and I think they lack the depth for such a game. Depth is such an underrated trait of a championship team. If they had finished the game with the defense they started with then the Pats were doomed.









But that comeback was a beautiful sight! 2 drives of 8 to tie after being held to a FG and then OT. Just W0W


----------



## JEmmaB

Hello guys, haven't posted here for it feels like ages.









Anyways I just want to post some 939 stuff; my current build died on me, so I revived my old DFI 939 rig.

Stock speed, no overclocking, I don't want to press my luck.











http://valid.x86.fr/htx7r3


----------



## Mr.Scott

Nice processor







..........and you have your ram in the wrong slots, and under clocked.
Your 2 sticks should be in the orange slots and your memory divider should be set to 200 MHz.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Nice processor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..........and you have your ram in the wrong slots, and under clocked.
> Your 2 sticks should be in the orange slots and your memory divider should be set to 200 MHz.


Still helping out.







+rep


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> They also had some key injuries and I think they lack the depth for such a game. Depth is such an underrated trait of a championship team. If they had finished the game with the defense they started with then the Pats were doomed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But that comeback was a beautiful sight! 2 drives of 8 to tie after being held to a FG and then OT. Just W0W


Just sayin here.....

Atlanta shot themselves in the foot as the game progressed and towards the end, could have set themselves up to put the game away but as they were getting within field goal range to kick it for 3 they suddenly had _three penalties in a row called on them_.... I know that's not the only thing that did it but it was a biggie to the point it seemed like the fix was being thrown in with those three calls.

Regardless you know the bookies made out like bandits over this one when it was done.


----------



## JEmmaB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Nice processor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..........and you have your ram in the wrong slots, and under clocked.
> Your 2 sticks should be in the orange slots and your memory divider should be set to 200 MHz.


Thanks for pointing that out.









However, it is the only config that works with both RAMs, using both orange slots makes the system refuse to boot.

Maybe a problem with the RAMs age, still tinkering with the build, I'm just happy it works.


----------



## ShrimpBrime

That's because your using two different sticks of Memory both with different rated speeds and timings. That DFI board is going to be picky about it.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShrimpBrime*
> 
> That's because your using two different sticks of Memory both with different rated speeds and timings. That DFI board is going to be picky about it.


Exactly.


----------



## Hueristic

He should be able to manually enter the lower rated stick and work up from there.


----------



## ShrimpBrime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> He should be able to manually enter the lower rated stick and work up from there.


The board won't even post the sticks in the correct memory slots/channels because of the memory stick difference. These old DFI boards are just that way!

check it....
Quote:


> However, it is the only config that works with both RAMs, using both orange slots makes the system refuse to boot.


If the sticks where identical, it'd probably post right up.

He probably wishes he had my XMS Expert memory sticks. They would make the system quite happy XD


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShrimpBrime*
> 
> The board won't even post the sticks in the correct memory slots/channels because of the memory stick difference. These old DFI boards are just that way!
> 
> check it....
> If the sticks where identical, it'd probably post right up.
> 
> He probably wishes he had my XMS Expert memory sticks. They would make the system quite happy XD


I haven't sparked either of mine up in years but I think if he saves the lower clocked in the bios, shutdown then swapped the chips he'd get a boot.


----------



## ShrimpBrime

Yea, maybe. But the OC may still get limited by the mix matched memory. Either way at least he got it running and usable!

You should fire up the old s939 rigs every now and then. It helps to appreciate how far we've come in computing and touch on the basics of overclocking without multipliers unless you have FX chips for this set up.

Mines on the table, probably once or twice a month I fire it up with a lower OC of about 2750mhz just to keep in touch with it.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShrimpBrime*
> 
> Yea, maybe. But the OC may still get limited by the mix matched memory. Either way at least he got it running and usable!
> 
> You should fire up the old s939 rigs every now and then. It helps to appreciate how far we've come in computing and touch on the basics of overclocking without multipliers unless you have FX chips for this set up.
> 
> Mines on the table, probably once or twice a month I fire it up with a lower OC of about 2750mhz just to keep in touch with it.


My HTPC is my s939 setup, so i get to enjoy it everyday.







Until Ryzen releases...


----------



## JEmmaB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShrimpBrime*
> 
> That's because your using two different sticks of Memory both with different rated speeds and timings. That DFI board is going to be picky about it.


That's the thing, I'm sure they are identical sticks but CPU-Z is reading them wrong. They worked fine on a older config, probably one of the sticks are going bad.

Thanks for the advise guys will definitely try-out your suggestions.

Cheers!


----------



## ShrimpBrime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JEmmaB*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ShrimpBrime*
> 
> That's because your using two different sticks of Memory both with different rated speeds and timings. That DFI board is going to be picky about it.
> 
> 
> 
> That's the thing, I'm sure they are identical sticks but CPU-Z is reading them wrong. They worked fine on a older config, probably one of the sticks are going bad.
> 
> Thanks for the advise guys will definitely try-out your suggestions.
> 
> Cheers!
Click to expand...

Would have to visually see the part numbers on the sticks to really know what you have if you feel cpu-z is reading them wrong.


----------



## Kryton

Even if your sticks are of the same make and model the IMC's within could be different making them not want to work together.
The exact version of your sticks has to match between them as well because of this, with each version of a given RAM stick model they sometimes changed what paticular IMC chips were used in them. Some IMC's are fine mixed with others in a system, some don't play nice with others and that's how it is.

As long as the make, model AND version is the same they should work together just fine.


----------



## rhkcommander959

DFI was always picky. the best memory i ever used were the crucial tracers, but the ocz copper guys in this motherboard are a lot pickier.

Still haven't tried a reflow, I suck. I cleaned off the work bench though, so I am getting to it. Just dont hold your breath









I found an a8n32-sli deluxe on ebay, it has an X drawn on the bios chip and says it lights the green LED, fans spin, no post. Anyone think it is salvageable? The second cheapest one posts to bios but is missing a chunk of the board, looks like someone yanked it out with a screw still in by the memory...

I've got either 4x2 or 4x4 memory (I forget which







) to try and make a modern 939 again. 3ghz with either 8 or 16 would be nice


----------



## JEmmaB

Hmmm... That is GREAT to know that some RAM sticks are factory mix matched, need to pull them out and double check the parts number on them though.

Anyways, thanks for the info; very much appreciated.


----------



## Aleslammer

Been watching the 16GB use so had to give it a try. A8N32-sli Deluxe, RAM @ 2.85v


----------



## JEmmaB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aleslammer*
> 
> Been watching the 16GB use so had to give it a try. A8N32-sli Deluxe, RAM @ 2.85v


Very nice!









Would give it a try only if DDR memory modules are not so damn hard to find.


----------



## ShrimpBrime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aleslammer*
> 
> Been watching the 16GB use so had to give it a try. A8N32-sli Deluxe, RAM @ 2.85v


Them sticks aren't even clocked up yet. Looking for 3.0v ++ and some 300mhz XD


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JEmmaB*
> 
> Hmmm... That is GREAT to know that some RAM sticks are factory mix matched, need to pull them out and double check the parts number on them though.
> 
> Anyways, thanks for the info; very much appreciated.


When you reinstall make sure the one reading slowest is in the slot closest to the cpu. If cpuz is picking them up mismatched then most likely the bios is as well.


----------



## seaFs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShrimpBrime*
> 
> Them sticks aren't even clocked up yet. Looking for 3.0v ++ and some 300mhz XD


But they are running CL2.5.







Make 3.0V++ and you got a nice fire in the casing


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> But they are running CL2.5.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make 3.0V++ and you got a nice fire in the casing


That sounds about right for Shrimpy.....


----------



## Mr.Scott

But he'll have a couple great scores before the extinguisher comes into play.


----------



## Aleslammer

Tried more voltage 2.95v and above just made them unstable, with Cas 2.5 nothing more than 208. Dropping a multiplier would do 2.5-2-2-6 in the upper 170 range but couldn't get to Cas 2.


----------



## tamw

Socket 939, eh? When AMD was on top of the word!

Probably my all-time favourite platform, and my first actually.

Guess I'll share my working boards:



The Abit Kn8-sli was my frist board from 2005, had a 4400+ running on it that year, ****ty oc'er 2.7ghz on water









DFI NF4-D I got in early 2006, was my main workhorse/gamer along with the great Opteron 175 CCBBE 0613RPMW. It was running 3.2ghz 1.5v on water along with 4gb ocz EB @ 268mhz 3-3-3-8-2T on Windows XP x64 Pro.
Ran it until fall 2009 actually when I finally upgraded. Still works to this day at those speeds.

The Asrock 790GS, Lanparty NF3 and CFX3200 I only got for my collection later, never actually used them for anything real.
The cfx-3200 board is actually dead I forgot, same with the Venus (only its box in the picture).. Venus was my benching board, and broke quite a few WRs over the years until it died.
I actually have a DFI NF4 Expert laying around at a friends house also









My 939 shuttle, only 939 I have running nowadays with an Opteron 180, 2gb and Windows XP POSReady 2009.



And then of course, my crown jewel... My.. Precious:
The OPTERON 190, 2.8ghz stock. Never released for sale.



Can anyone beat that?


----------



## Mr.Scott

Who are you?
There are only a half a dozen or so 190's known in the wild.
You have one of the last one's. Most were 0641 dated.


----------



## tamw

I am tamw, owner of a 190..
<- Says it right there









Hehe, I was just lucky enough to find one of these on ebay a few years back, and my good friend knopflerbruce hooked me up with his usa buddies to get it shipped to me in Norway.. He also has one actually.
As far as I understand, they where produced under limited contracts by AMD back then, and like you said, VERY few are out there.

It runs quite cool actually, loads in the low 40's (c) on stock 1.3v. Normally the BQ steppings is frying like litteral BBQ's under the ihs, which have made me puzzle if it is soldered on, unlike any other 939 chip. But kinda doubt that. Will NEVER try finding out either








I have never oc'd it to its potential, but it runs 3ghz on 1.3v on air 100% stable.

Btw, I see you guys talking about 8 and 16gb ram on 939 systems, ECC ram I presume? Thats crazy for k8 computing performance, but still gave me a semi









Interesting times ahead with Zen launching in a couple of days, one can only hope it will be the new k8!
In any case, you better believe my Intel setup is on its way out the door


----------



## Mr.Scott

I knew Knut was involved.








Say no more, all my questions are answered.

Nice chip.
I'd bench the **** out of it. lol


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tamw*
> 
> Socket 939, eh? When AMD was on top of the word!...


Nice bit of kit there! An elusive 190 even! So you never got the 190 on the venus, acquired after the venus died?


----------



## tamw

Actually it was Knut that killed the Venus, he may have ran his 190 on it, not sure.








It wasn't a big deal for me that it died, I was done with that sort of oc insanity by then and it had served me well. (and he paid me for it)








But it whould have been a nice couple, the most powerfull 939 chip on the best 939 board









Knut has the sickest 939 cpu collection I have ever seen tho!
He's missing a few for a complete collection I think, but he has so many that most don't even know exist!
I'll have to lay them all out and take a high res of the lot, next time I visit..









On another rarity note, I also have a Sapphire X1950 PRO DUAL graphics card








This may be up there on the 190 level, I only ever saw one other on ebay back in 2008 for some insane price..










Sadly there is a reason why its so rare tho, it barely performs as a single X1900XTX and didn't come on the scene until 2007 sometime.
But it may be the first crossfire gpu on a single pcb?

I also used to have a Sapphire CFX3200 Pure White 939 board, but foolishly got rid of it years ago.
But who knew we were gonna be autistic 939 nerds all these years later?









939 is love.

939 is life.


----------



## Acoma_Andy

Nice pictures tamw!









I actually sold my Opteron 185 system (I know it's not as rare as the 190) a few months ago because I was in the need for some cash









What I have left is an FX57 and no board to test it on (it came out of a dead pc).


----------



## SwishaMane

Whats wrong with the Venus board again? Some of us may be able to rez it.


----------



## tamw

I doubt it, it died of condensation during the last of a nights nitro runs after he forgot to remove the cold pot after bench and the system was still on..
He said there was floating water ontop of it when he noticed smoke and noices coming from the board








It had vaseline or something to protect, but not enough..
After that it has been laying around and handeled without ESD protection, and I even soldered off a mosfet from it so try saving another board with a burnt one









Its dead.

I have seen them now and again on ebay, but been awhile now. Of only 1000 boards, i whould guess most are dead now. Or sitting in some gamers basement storage, having never even been overclocked and thorwn aside as thrash when core 2 came along, just bought because it was the most expensive. I'm getting sad just thinking about it.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Don't be sad. The box is worth more than the board.
It's no different than an Expert.


----------



## Hey_Hi_Hello

With a release of Ryzen, I decided to go ahead and start my socket 939 machine after she has been sitting for years. And guess what - she started up fine on first attempt and appears to be perfectly stable, too! All I can say the system is still pretty fast and responsive for light use like web browsing or other not-so-demanding tasks.









The specs are:
AMD Athlon 64 X2 4800+ 2.4GHz socket 939
ASUS A8N-SLI Deluxe @ A8N-SLI Premium BIOS
2GB 400MHz CL2.5 Kingston RAM
GeForce 7900GTX 512MB
WD 500GB HDD
Windows XP 64-bit

Here's my full specs report:
http://valid.x86.fr/j0t9eg


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hey_Hi_Hello*
> 
> With a release of Ryzen, I decided to go ahead and start my socket 939 machine after she has been sitting for years. And guess what - she started up fine on first attempt and appears to be perfectly stable, too! All I can say the system is still pretty fast and responsive for light use like web browsing or other not-so-demanding tasks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The specs are:
> AMD Athlon 64 X2 4800+ 2.4GHz socket 939
> ASUS A8N-SLI Deluxe @ A8N-SLI Premium BIOS
> 2GB 400MHz CL2.5 Kingston RAM
> GeForce 7900GTX 512MB
> WD 500GB HDD
> Windows XP 64-bit
> 
> Here's my full specs report:
> http://valid.x86.fr/j0t9eg


Awesome! They are also great for HTPCs.


----------



## Dhoulmagus

My last 939 board finally died, it was junk from an old OEM (I believe dell) anyway. Asrock board went in the bin before this one =\

Any boards out there in the wild I should be looking for on ebay/etc that are known to have some longevity that aren't hilariously expensive? I haven't needed a 939 board in over a decade but can't live without one. I can't justify spending much, my old asrock board seems to be super expensive on ebay.

I have a bunch of Athlon X2s and Opterons and an AGP Radeon 3850 coming from another user soon to drop in it. Would like to OC the Opteron 180 a bit but nothing extreme.

....I can't believe I just saw an opteron 190 on the last page, good for you proud owner. Super jealous.

edit: Don't know why I never officially joined this club, I've been running socket 939 since 2004 24/7







. Anyway, hi 939 club.


----------



## SwishaMane

DFI Infinty ultra is a super solid affordable board. Any of the lanparty DFI's... Ultra-D, Expert, etc. ASUS A8N, or A8N32 flavors. All solid board sthat can be had for "cheap" these days. Like $50.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Serious_Don*
> 
> My last 939 board finally died, it was junk from an old OEM (I believe dell) anyway. Asrock board went in the bin before this one =\
> 
> Any boards out there in the wild I should be looking for on ebay/etc that are known to have some longevity that aren't hilariously expensive? I haven't needed a 939 board in over a decade but can't live without one. I can't justify spending much, my old asrock board seems to be super expensive on ebay.
> 
> I have a bunch of Athlon X2s and Opterons and an AGP Radeon 3850 coming from another user soon to drop in it. Would like to OC the Opteron 180 a bit but nothing extreme.
> 
> ....I can't believe I just saw an opteron 190 on the last page, good for you proud owner. Super jealous.
> 
> edit: Don't know why I never officially joined this club, I've been running socket 939 since 2004 24/7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Anyway, hi 939 club.


Nice to see you posting here.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> DFI Infinty ultra is a super solid affordable board. Any of the lanparty DFI's... Ultra-D, Expert, etc. ASUS A8N, or A8N32 flavors. All solid board sthat can be had for "cheap" these days. Like $50.


So is Asus still supporting those boards with drivers? Last time I was setting up my DFI's I had a serious issue getting win7 drivers. But the DFI's are the BEST hands down.


----------



## Dhoulmagus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> DFI Infinty ultra is a super solid affordable board. Any of the lanparty DFI's... Ultra-D, Expert, etc. ASUS A8N, or A8N32 flavors. All solid board sthat can be had for "cheap" these days. Like $50.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> Nice to see you posting here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So is Asus still supporting those boards with drivers? Last time I was setting up my DFI's I had a serious issue getting win7 drivers. But the DFI's are the BEST hands down.


Thanks guys, I've been digging through ebay all morning. There is actually quite a few A8Ns on ebay, one comes with a 3500+ and 2x512MB corsair CMX 3200s.. Even has the backplate.. would cost about $81 USD shipped. Sound like a good deal? I'd probably scrap the memory though

Ah, on second thought it doesn't have AGP 8x. I'm planning to run an AGP 3850 on it, my PCI-E cards from that era were lovingly buried after long tours of duty


----------



## Kryton

You won't find alot of 939's that use an AGP card but they are out there and yes I do have one myself.
What I have is the DFI NF3-250 Ultra D, a really hard to find board that can OC but I've noted with mine it's not the best for a DC chip and the board itself doesn't seem to recognize a DC correctly, says it's an unknown CPU.
The CPU power phase isn't as heavy as it would be with a NF4 based DFI either so..... I know there are a few out there but I don't think they'll be so easy to find, certainly not as easily as an NF4 Ultra D for example.

I'll snap a pic of mine and post that up in a few.


----------



## Dhoulmagus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> You won't find alot of 939's that use an AGP card but they are out there and yes I do have one myself.
> What I have is the DFI NF3-250 Ultra D, a really hard to find board that can OC but I've noted with mine it's not the best for a DC chip and the board itself doesn't seem to recognize a DC correctly, says it's an unknown CPU.
> The CPU power phase isn't as heavy as it would be with a NF4 based DFI either so..... I know there are a few out there but I don't think they'll be so easy to find, certainly not as easily as an NF4 Ultra D for example.
> 
> I'll snap a pic of mine and post that up in a few.


Yeah I see where I put myself in a pitfall, I wanted to upgrade to a machine that would run my opty dual core but didn't consider the GPU. I have plenty of other 939 CPUs though, it isn't a big deal. My old rig was running a 3700+

edit What about the Asus A8V? https://www.asus.com/supportonly/A8V/HelpDesk_CPU/ -- Not sure I'd be able to track one down.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Serious_Don*
> 
> Yeah I see where I put myself in a pitfall, I wanted to upgrade to a machine that would run my opty dual core but didn't consider the GPU. I have plenty of other 939 CPUs though, it isn't a big deal. My old rig was running a 3700+
> 
> edit What about the Asus A8V Deluxe? https://www.asus.com/supportonly/A8V/HelpDesk_CPU/ -- Not sure I'd be able to track one down.


It's not impossible to find one, that Abit AV8 939 board should do for the purpose you have in mind. However as said these don't pop out and wave a flag everyday either.

Here's pics of my DFI AGP 939 LanParty board so if you see one you'll know and have an idea of it's layout.





BTW the yellow stuff around the CPU socket is just bits of Plastalina I was using as insulation against moisture, it's not a problem.


----------



## Dhoulmagus

Man that's a nice looking board. I miss the color schemes we had going on in those days. At least your additional clay matches the color scheme haha. I love how the RAM is positioned horizontally above the socket too, the layout of that board is just really cool.

The asus a8v looks really ugly, vrm looks like somebody was playing darts. I see both the A8V and the Abit AV8 on ebay. Prices are pretty good.

But oh god now I want to make a really nice looking 939 rig after seeing that sexy LAN party board









edit: Now I'm considering putting the 3850 in with my p4 and grabbing something PCI-E for my 939, I just don't really use the p4 much anymore. I'm really excited about that 3850 AGP though, always wanted a top end AGP card







.. But the PCI-E gpus from ~2007 are dirt cheap on ebay I see so it couldn't hurt.

Decisions decisions. .


----------



## Kryton

Just don't get rid of the AGP 3850, it's a keeper you know.









I was going to suggest for the sake of simply getting something useable up and running to go ahead and grab a NF4 board, the Ultra D's can still be found for a reasonable price and paired with your 180 would make a nice 939 setup.

I found awhile back a Sapphire X1950 PCI-E GPU that works great and grabbed it for less than $15 shipped but it was sold as an unknown condition card/for parts or repair. I got lucky and it turned out to be good buy, you should be able to find something similar for a decent price, even the PCI-E versions of an 3850 are cheap and would be about the same thing you were going to build anyway like this one as an example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sapphire-ATI-Radeon-HD-3850-512-MB-GDDR3-SDRAM-PCI-Express-/282351642647?hash=item41bd782817:g:IgwAAOSwLEtYl9bj

Just make sure of the shipping cost BEFORE buying anything with variable cost shipping.


----------



## SwishaMane

I've got an eVGA 8800 GTX (stock) and an eVGA GTX 260 C216 with accelero cooler. Either one of those would be era appropriate for your s939 build

If interested in either, let me know.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> It's not impossible to find one, that Abit AV8 939 board should do for the purpose you have in mind. However as said these don't pop out and wave a flag everyday either.
> 
> Here's pics of my DFI AGP 939 LanParty board so if you see one you'll know and have an idea of it's layout.
> 
> 
> 
> BTW the yellow stuff around the CPU socket is just bits of Plastalina I was using as insulation against moisture, it's not a problem.


Nice, Didn't even know DFI made those. My AGP/PCI-E transition board was the Asrock 939Dual-SATA2, the only board in existence I know of with the ULi 1695 ULi / M1695 chipset. Running AGP and PCI-E at the same time was damn cool, using the pci-e just for PhsyX was pretty funny as well.


----------



## Dhoulmagus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> Just don't get rid of the AGP 3850, it's a keeper you know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was going to suggest for the sake of simply getting something useable up and running to go ahead and grab a NF4 board, the Ultra D's can still be found for a reasonable price and paired with your 180 would make a nice 939 setup.
> 
> I found awhile back a Sapphire X1950 PCI-E GPU that works great and grabbed it for less than $15 shipped but it was sold as an unknown condition card/for parts or repair. I got lucky and it turned out to be good buy, you should be able to find something similar for a decent price, even the PCI-E versions of an 3850 are cheap and would be about the same thing you were going to build anyway like this one as an example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sapphire-ATI-Radeon-HD-3850-512-MB-GDDR3-SDRAM-PCI-Express-/282351642647?hash=item41bd782817:g:IgwAAOSwLEtYl9bj
> 
> Just make sure of the shipping cost BEFORE buying anything with variable cost shipping.


Def not going to get rid of the 3850, I was looking for a card like that for ages and another member posted it in our for sale section.

I like the ulook of the Ultra D, that's a possibility. Graphics shouldn't be an issue, I'm waiting for a buddy who also has a ton of spare parts to respond, I think he has a few era proper GPUs on tap.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> I've got an eVGA 8800 GTX (stock) and an eVGA GTX 260 C216 with accelero cooler. Either one of those would be era appropriate for your s939 build
> 
> If interested in either, let me know.


Thanks for the offer, I'll let you know if I don't turn something up. Ahh 8800 GTX.. that brings me back. Mines dead









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> Nice, Didn't even know DFI made those. My AGP/PCI-E transition board was the Asrock 939Dual-SATA2, the only board in existence I know of with the ULi 1695 ULi / M1695 chipset. Running AGP and PCI-E at the same time was damn cool, using the pci-e just for PhsyX was pretty funny as well.


Sweet, that's exactly the board I used to have that I was searching for last night. They seem to be hard to find now.


----------



## Dhoulmagus

Just out of curiosity, If i wanted to upgrade this into something really nice looking. Can you think of any GPUs off hand that would go with the Ultra-Ds yellow and black color scheme? I doubt I'd need anything orange because the RAM would mostly hide that.. I guess the GPU would need to be mostly black, or it would turn this excessively yellow. Or maybe a third color in the mix for some extra mid 2000s feel. I'm picturing a PNY 9800 GTX XLR8 performance edition on a pci-e riser, but that card is a bit too new.

Anybody in the mood for a 'modern' 939 rig with some mild RGB accents and some modern benches on ancient hardwarez?









https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813136152&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-VigLink-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=6146846&SID=izyn0rs55t000kb500053

The board in question.


----------



## Mr.Scott

I'm a little late but, the best 939 AGP board that overclocked decently was made by MSI. K8N Neo2 Platinum.
NF3 chipset. Clocks like a champ. I used to bench AGP cards on this board before the Asrock AM2 and 775 AGP boards came out.

https://us.msi.com/Motherboard/support/K8N_Neo2_Platinum.html#down-driver&XP 32


----------



## Dhoulmagus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> I'm a little late but, the best 939 AGP board that overclocked decently was made by MSI. K8N Neo2 Platinum.
> NF3 chipset. Clocks like a champ. I used to bench AGP cards on this board before the Asrock AM2 and 775 AGP boards came out.
> 
> https://us.msi.com/Motherboard/support/K8N_Neo2_Platinum.html#down-driver&XP 32


Nice one, you think MSI could use a lower res picture for it though? haha.. I found one on ebay though, over seas sadly but that shows they are still in the wild. Added to my list of boards to hunt down.

My friend I mentioned earlier got back to me, his Athlon rig was AM2 Athlon 64 X2 5000+ BE.. But he's mailing that to me complete with a HD 5770 and all he had in it ... score!







.. Still repairing the 939 rig though, AM2 is too modern.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Serious_Don*
> 
> ... Still repairing the 939 rig though, AM2 is too modern.


Don't want to lose that retro tag aye?


----------



## Dhoulmagus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> Don't want to lose that retro tag aye?


Retro..... ahhhh I'm sad to even call 939 retro already.. Feels like I just ordered this stuff. I'm also pulling in some socket 7 gear from Vogons because I have a whole bin full of k6-2s and P1s, and I want to hear my glorious Sound Blaster 16 again. .....I want a 486 rig too..... .............I'm an addict...............

Or I just like playing my games on time period correct hardware.. it's a fun hobby. 939 is the perfect setup for many years worth of games that are a nightmare on Windows 10.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Serious_Don*
> 
> Just out of curiosity, If i wanted to upgrade this into something really nice looking. Can you think of any GPUs off hand that would go with the Ultra-Ds yellow and black color scheme? I doubt I'd need anything orange because the RAM would mostly hide that.. I guess the GPU would need to be mostly black, or it would turn this excessively yellow. Or maybe a third color in the mix for some extra mid 2000s feel. I'm picturing a PNY 9800 GTX XLR8 performance edition on a pci-e riser, but that card is a bit too new.


Here's a card that fills the bill completely for what you are wanting related to color scheme with Yellow, Orange and Black, period correct too.


Bought three of them for under $30 each, you should be able to find one for about that if not cheaper if you really look around. I have ran these in Tri-SLI and they do alright for that use but there are other 8800GTX cards that clock higher than these can overall.
At least if you find one of these it would be about what you are looking for.


----------



## Dhoulmagus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> Here's a card that fills the bill completely for what you are wanting related to color scheme with Yellow, Orange and Black, period correct too.
> 
> 
> Bought three of them for under $30 each, you should be able to find one for about that if not cheaper if you really look around. I have ran these in Tri-SLI and they do alright for that use but there are other 8800GTX cards that clock higher than these can overall.
> At least if you find one of these it would be about what you are looking for.


Great minds think alike, I forgot there was an 8800 model, I had said I was picturing that exact 9800 version above


----------



## Kryton

I believe they made a 9800 version of it as well that looks the same but an 8800 like that is period correct and would do the job you'd ask of it.


----------



## Hueristic

W0w a new build option for the 939 line.

ART !

Here's your case.


----------



## Dhoulmagus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> I believe they made a 9800 version of it as well that looks the same but an 8800 like that is period correct and would do the job you'd ask of it.


https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814133219
This was the card I had originally owned,


This one also looks real nice but not sure I want to go 200 series.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> W0w a new build option for the 939 line.
> 
> ART !
> 
> Here's your case.


Ahh I love artsy fartsy bullllcrap! (Scooter from BL2 voice)

Colors would clash with the motherboard though


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Serious_Don*
> 
> ...
> This one also looks real nice but not sure I want to go 200 series.
> Ahh I love artsy fartsy bullllcrap! (Scooter from BL2 voice)
> 
> Colors would clash with the motherboard though


I seriously Doubt your going to find a better matching card than the one Kryton found. She's a beauty.



On a side not, you know to this day I still can never spell "Beauty / beautiful" on the first try. There is just something about that word it's to weird "eau" man I quit high school because of English class!


----------



## Dhoulmagus

Nah you're right the XLR8 8800 it is. Was just browsing other models, the orange fan on the 250 would be excessive.

I went to kolledge and the only words I can spell with certainty are: 6 figure debt, unemployed, living-in-a-garage, lawsuit, and bankrupt.

It is a bewtiful card


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Serious_Don*
> 
> Nah you're right the XLR8 8800 it is. Was just browsing other models, the orange fan on the 250 would be excessive.
> 
> I went to kolledge and the only words I can spell with certainty are: 6 figure debt, unemployed, living-in-a-garage, lawsuit, and bankrupt.
> 
> It is a bewtiful card


ROTF*****!


----------



## rhkcommander959

anyone ever tried booting with a x4 pcie to sata/m.2 on their 939, or are the board bios too old to support that?

I know I used to use a x1 card for 2 more ports, but I wasn't booting from it either.


----------



## tamw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> anyone ever tried booting with a x4 pcie to sata/m.2 on their 939, or are the board bios too old to support that?
> 
> I know I used to use a x1 card for 2 more ports, but I wasn't booting from it either.


I'm not 100% on this, but I think I tried a ocz revodrive on my NF4-D some years back, and it didn't want to boot from it. I could be mixing it with some other board tho.

Actually I can try it out in the next few days if I remember


----------



## lexer

Someone tried running a cpu with bare die and stock cooler ? with a WC i have like 10+ºC difference, but since it has screws i can control the amount of pressure applied, but with the stock cooler is not possible.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> Someone tried running a cpu with bare die and stock cooler ? with a WC i have like 10+ºC difference, but since it has screws i can control the amount of pressure applied, but with the stock cooler is not possible.


Can't be done. You need something to fill the space of the IHS, or custom mounting. Stock cooler will not clamp down.


----------



## Dhoulmagus

Hey @Kryton When you have some time could you measure the distance between the socket and the first ram bank on your LANparty board?


----------



## lexer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Can't be done. You need something to fill the space of the IHS, or custom mounting. Stock cooler will not clamp down.


Yeah .... i will try with a few teflon washer


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Serious_Don*
> 
> Hey @Kryton When you have some time could you measure the distance between the socket and the first ram bank on your LANparty board?


I'll get on that tomorrow.


----------



## Kryton

I wasn't 100% sure which model you were referring to so I went ahead and covered the bases.
Note that I began the measurement at the 1 inch mark since the tape's hook tab tends to move around, this way what you see is more precise.

LanParty NF3-250


NF4 Ultra D


CFX3200


LanParty Expert


Hope this helps.

BTW the Expert shown is dead but I have others around here.


----------



## Dhoulmagus

Jesus you're just walking 939 awesomeness Kryton, thank you. I meant the Ultra D but this helps more









Will check them out when I get on the big screen, I'm too blind here


----------



## nukem

Man I'm pumped! Not 939 but an AM2 with the same nv6100 chips etc as my first build. Came with a 5200+. Biostar board. Can't wait to wring this thing out.


----------



## Dhoulmagus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nukem*
> 
> Man I'm pumped! Not 939 but an AM2 with the same nv6100 chips etc as my first build. Came with a 5200+. Biostar board. Can't wait to wring this thing out.]


Nice, that looks awesome. Maybe you should start an AM2 slightly less appreciative club







.. I have an AM2 setup on the way as well from a buddy, but I never actually owned AM2 before since I was living on campus with laptops at that time. 939 was the last desktop I had until AM3

edit: Is that the ATX power connector on the left hand side of the board? That's an oddity if I've ever seen one


----------



## nukem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Serious_Don*
> 
> Nice, that looks awesome. Maybe you should start an AM2 slightly less appreciative club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. I have an AM2 setup on the way as well from a buddy, but I never actually owned AM2 before since I was living on campus with laptops at that time. 939 was the last desktop I had until AM3
> 
> edit: Is that the ATX power connector on the left hand side of the board? That's an oddity if I've ever seen one


Yeah it's a weirdo lay out. Just like my old 6100 m9 socket 939 biostar.

This is actually a "Mach Speed" rebrand of a Biostar matx board. I'm curious to see if it has a custom bios or what. I'll re-post when I get it going... if it still works lol

Should mention I took my old 3800+ x2 to 3.4ghz on a suicide run on my old 939. Didn't stress test but it loaded windows on air


----------



## Mr.Scott

That is a Mach Speed Venom board. Yes, it has AMD Hammer and you will be able to overclock on it. It's no screamer or anything, but it's better than OEM for sure.


----------



## nukem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> That is a Mach Speed Venom board. Yes, it has AMD Hammer and you will be able to overclock on it. It's no screamer or anything, but it's better than OEM for sure.


Cool







It caught my eye. I know the board isn't a crazy 8 phase beast or anything, But I bet if I drop the HT and RAM multi it will crank just like my old 6100 m9.


----------



## Dhoulmagus

Speaking of AM2, mine is here too











Exactly how she came... I'll pull it apart and see what's in it shortly, you guys can probably decipher it anyway with your wizardry.

No DDR2 in it, have to order another kit but thankfully they are cheap on ebay these days


----------



## nukem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Serious_Don*
> 
> Speaking of AM2, mine is here too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly how she came... I'll pull it apart and see what's in it shortly, you guys can probably decipher it anyway with your wizardry.
> 
> No DDR2 in it, have to order another kit but thankfully they are cheap on ebay these days


Awesome What card is that? It looks like somebody's old gaming love child lol. Good lookin rig in its day for sure!


----------



## Dhoulmagus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nukem*
> 
> Awesome What card is that? It looks like somebody's old gaming love child lol. Good lookin rig in its day for sure!


My buddy sent it to me, it was built in 2008 but the GPU was added later, that's an XFX radeon 5770


----------



## Dhoulmagus

That's as far as I'm going for now lol.. MSI board and an athlon 64 x2 5000 black edition

edit: There was literally dirt under the cpu lid.. nice!

Oh and he isn't sure the 5770 is any good


----------



## nukem

Sweet







That's a great card! Never owned one myself but when they were popular I had a 550ti that was very lack luster. What are you looking at for ram? I may need a kit myself.


----------



## Dhoulmagus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nukem*
> 
> Sweet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a great card! Never owned one myself but when they were popular I had a 550ti that was very lack luster. What are you looking at for ram? I may need a kit myself.


I actually have a pair of 5770s from XFX already, these: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150447 .. sadly one broke, the other is still living in my nephews rig.

For this rig I'll probably just grab 4 gigs (2x2) of G.skill 6400 from ebay since that's nice and cheap. I had plans to put some money in to fix my 939 rig so nothing excessive on that one. In fact if that 5770 is alive I'll probably just sell it to use towards 939 gear


----------



## nukem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Serious_Don*
> 
> I actually have a pair of 5770s from XFX already, these:
> https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150447 .. sadly one broke, the other is still living in my nephews rig.
> 
> For this rig I'll probably just grab 4 gigs (2x2) of G.skill 6400 from ebay since that's nice and cheap. I had plans to put some money in to fix my 939 rig so nothing excessive on that one. In fact if that 5770 is alive I'll probably just sell it to use towards 939 gear


LOL! Well more love needs to be fed to the 939. I'm looking at this for ram

https://m.ncix.com/products/sku/118367

I can toss some old server ram heatspeaders on these if they need it.


----------



## Dhoulmagus

is that CAD? the G.Skill kits are buy it now for only around $25 USD on ebay. Not sure if there's anything special about those


----------



## nukem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Serious_Don*
> 
> is that CAD? the G.Skill kits are buy it now for only around $25 USD on ebay. Not sure if there's anything special about those


Yeah I'm Canadian. We are loving the butt rape for our dollar up here lol


----------



## Dhoulmagus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nukem*
> 
> Yeah I'm Canadian. We are loving the butt rape for our dollar up here lol


still that's over 40 USD I believe, you can't find better deals on ebay? That's crazy for DDR2


----------



## nukem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Serious_Don*
> 
> still that's over 40 USD I believe, you can't find better deals on ebay? That's crazy for DDR2


Well that's why I asked. I'll look into some stuff on ebay. Thanks


----------



## Dhoulmagus

Ahh I see, yeah look around for G.skill kits with the blue heat spreaders, they were extremely common even I had purchased a bunch new... I'm following an auction for 4 of them to see how that goes


----------



## rhkcommander959

welp I ordered another an832-sli wish me luck. The 16gb of ram is getting lonely. Hopefully this one isnt another dud


----------



## Hueristic

Hey anyone know of a tool to change Jdec XMP profiles?


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> Hey anyone know of a tool to change Jdec XMP profiles?


http://www.softnology.biz/tips_xmpextract.html


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> http://www.softnology.biz/tips_xmpextract.html


How did I know that *you* would come through for me!









+rep


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> How did I know that *you* would come through for me!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +rep


Eh.......because some things you just know.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Eh.......because some things you just know.


Do you know what info is in the first 2kb of DDR2 and DDR3?

From readme
Quote:


> 2. WARNING! Samsung, Hynix, Elixir/Nanya, Silicon Power, Crucial (SO-DIMM),
> Patriot (SO-DIMM) and Micron Technology are used to write-protect the first
> 128 bytes of the 2-Kbit SPD EEPROM chip for all DDR2/DDR3 DRAM modules and
> the first 384 bytes of the 4-Kbit SPD EEPROM of all DDR4 DRAM modules. These
> limitations do not allow changing JEDEC timings, frequencies and other technical
> parameters of the module. However, you can write one or two XMP profiles.


EDIT: Decided not to take the chance of bricking it so emailed Gskill, maybe they will send me an editor, hah doubt it, they will probably want to rma my other stick. :|


----------



## rhkcommander959

Dont know that I've ever tried flashing XMP profiles, but that quote says that warning is for ddr2-4, and that you can write one to two profiles. Sounds like the warning is just for the jedec timings?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> Dont know that I've ever tried flashing XMP profiles, but that quote says that warning is for ddr2-4, and that you can write one to two profiles. Sounds like the warning is just for the jedec timings?


I just don't want to brick it and have to deal with another rma! Lol


----------



## rhkcommander959

well my new asus a8n32-sli just showed up, came with a 4400x2 but the stepping doesnt look good - ccbwe 0607rpmw. We will see, I will delid it, insulate it, and throw the peltier on it once I finish lapping the cold plate I made.

PS i made progress on the cold plate







. I had to remove some stock to get rid of the stampings, now I just need to lap it by hand to make sure its still true and flat.

I know I know... pics. I will get on them soon


----------



## rhkcommander959

Caps all look fine, looks like this cpu has never even been removed. Mobo is clean but they did screw up the cmos battery holder... No battery included.

Green LED is blinking when off, wont post. my initial reading says this means there is a short to 5v ? I am testing as usual, non conductive surface with just the CPU and mobo and 1 stick of mem. Acts the same without mem or cpu. Power supply i am using is new, works on my i7 rig...

Let me guess, got screwed again?


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> well my new asus a8n32-sli just showed up, came with a 4400x2 but the stepping doesnt look good - ccbwe 0607rpmw. We will see, I will delid it, insulate it, and throw the peltier on it once I finish lapping the cold plate I made.
> 
> PS i made progress on the cold plate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I had to remove some stock to get rid of the stampings, now I just need to lap it by hand to make sure its still true and flat.
> 
> I know I know... pics. I will get on them soon


Yeah I seem to recall very few good OC's on that stepping with the vast majority being pretty low. But you never know.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> Caps all look fine, looks like this cpu has never even been removed. Mobo is clean but they did screw up the cmos battery holder... No battery included.
> 
> Green LED is blinking when off, wont post. my initial reading says this means there is a short to 5v ? I am testing as usual, non conductive surface with just the CPU and mobo and 1 stick of mem. Acts the same without mem or cpu. Power supply i am using is new, works on my i7 rig...
> 
> Let me guess, got screwed again?


Get out the meter and see if there is continuity fro 5v to gnd.

Switch bios chip?

maybe a short under 3.3v battery? check for junk in there if there was no battery that is odd, sometimes you get them with dead ones but without one is not normal.

GL and watching.









Did you email the guy? Or did he have an AS is as seen type thing to his sale?


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> Green LED is blinking when off, wont post.
> 
> Let me guess, got screwed again?


Send it back.


----------



## rhkcommander959

The a8n32-sli gods curse me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Send it back.


You really think its toast? I trust your judgement, I might have a spare BIOS chip to try


----------



## rhkcommander959

Well I'm trying one last time to get an asus board. I badly want to try the 16gb memory out









I'd probably go back to 939 as my daily, 3.2 ghz or more with 16gb would be good im sure


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> Well I'm trying one last time to get an asus board. I badly want to try the 16gb memory out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd probably go back to 939 as my daily, 3.2 ghz or more with 16gb would be good im sure


Don't forget the A8*R*32-MVP deluxe as well when you are looking. It works too, that's what I'm running 8GB with


----------



## rhkcommander959

Good point. Does it suffer the same bugs as some of the other 3200 motherboards? I will keep an eye out for either.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Send it back.


I concur - I have one and if the green power light is flashing a different BIOS chip won't do any good, you have another issue going on with it. However look the board over carefully before sending it back, could be something you may be able to fix yourself if you can solder, otherwise I'd so as suggested.

I did spot another A8N32 for $40 that's said to be untested (For parts or repair), could be it's OK and I've ran across several like that which were either OK or just needed some simple repairs - Knowing how to solder helps in that regard.


----------



## rhkcommander959

I can solder well, all caps look solid and i dont see anything else missing or broken loose. No pins bent touching... should i pop the heat sinks loose while i hunt for loose smds?

This was an untested board too.


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> I can solder well, all caps look solid and i dont see anything else missing or broken loose. No pins bent touching... should i pop the heat sinks loose while i hunt for loose smds?
> 
> This was an untested board too.


Did you do a continuity test?


----------



## cutterjohn

I resurrected my old 939 x2 4800+ a month or so ago in anticipation of the upcoming upgrade. Still wasn't certain about Ryzen at that point in time, but had collected parts for the 939 over time.

Replaced the old hipro 550W PSU w/another Rosewill IIRC 550W.

Swapped the 7600 GT KO for a 750 Ti

Upgraded the 2GB RAM to 4GB.

Has an OLD PCI ether 100Mbps ethernet card since

the mobo is some biostar(one w/XGP slot IIRC) w/nvidia chipset -> chipset ethernet would ALWAYS eventually flake out IF I could get it working at all, so I gave up on it back in the day.

Has win2k/XP/some ancient Ubuntu install I forget which ATM. I primarily ran it as a linux box w/Windows for gaming when I couldn't get stuff running under wine.

Thing was like a freaking time capsule as IIRC the PSU went sometime in 2008/9 and I got a c2d (p8600) MSI GT725(with that 4850m that was just the desktop 4850 w/slightly lower core and mem clocks) which smoked that x2 4800+ so it wasn't a priority for me to get it back up and running again, and by the time that I thought about doing something with it I went and built a 3930k/X79 system until last year that I decided even if Ryzen is a disappointment, it's time to upgrade my primary desktop anyways, so I started buying parts. (Well it started with w10x64pro and driver problems which I initially thought MIGHT also be PSU related but turned out NOT to be the case BUT I had purchased a 1kW evga g2 anyways, so I had a start of a new build and went from there, bought a case(which I opted to NOT use), memory(2x8GB G.skill, I tend to skimp a bit on memory on new builds expecting prices to drop and capacity to increase), drives, etc. just waiting to see if Ryzen lived up(I had hope since Keller was back temporarily) or a Xeon/server/workstation build of some type BUT for some reason I had purchased non-ECC memory at some point(probably a good sale 3200, 1.35V Cl16) and that kind of screwed that. (I'm even more bummed now that I see ASROCK boards at least seem to be running ECC under linux with just the R7s(probably cut down naples)).

Ah well, I digress, that's my 939 story. It lives again, and it was kind of amazing to see what I was doing frozen in 2008/9...


----------



## tamw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> I'd probably go back to 939 as my daily, 3.2 ghz or more with 16gb would be good im sure


What cpu/stepping you got that runs 3.2ghz? The CCBWE cpus need to be very cold to run that fast, doubt even peltier will be sufficient. Best bet is CCBBE, LCB9E or LCBQE for watercooling.

I too want to try out 8gb atleast. The lanparty's are a no-go for this? I have a Abit kn8-sli, but it isn't stable much over 3ghz for some reason.

I actually got a Sempron 3200+ LEBBE 0624 the other day, thinkin it whould oc like a CCBBE dualcore.. It did not







2.7ghz 1.68v was the highest I got stable, which is ok I guess for a cheap sempron back in the day. I kinda wanna pop the IHS and set it up on water to see where it lands, 3ghz stable on a sempron whould be cool! (or hot)


----------



## rhkcommander959

no go on lanpartys as far as I've been trying. I can get 4gb of ram to work on the cfx3200 I use but I have to pull sticks if I have to reset bios, so I gotta do the OC on the CPU before installing memory lol

I have an lcb9e 3800x2 that does 3.2, and a lcbqe i forget which model but I've been itching to push it.


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> Good point. Does it suffer the same bugs as some of the other 3200 motherboards? I will keep an eye out for either.


Not that I've noticed. I assume you are referring to the SATA issues that the DFI was notorious for having. I haven't had any problems, but I have never tried running a RAID on this machine. Its a little hard to overclock (a lot of fine tuning and slow increment increases), but I'm running around 340FSB at the moment, so it can run with the big boys. I've only tried the 8 GBs in it so far, but as far as I can tell if you can run 8, you can run 16.


----------



## tamw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hueristic*
> 
> So I watched you video and it's garbage.
> 
> Shank 2 was OK so I voted for that one.


Kek








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> I have an lcb9e 3800x2 that does 3.2


I never wasted my time on half cache pu**y cpu's.. I mean, how slow do you want your pc to operate?

Hehe, just kidding







Thats quite alright actually. I never did like the lcb9e stepping tho, always seemed to be more of a hassle to get good memory oc, or some types of ram working at all. And some of them just died for no reason.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tamw*
> 
> Kek
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never wasted my time on half cache pu**y cpu's.. I mean, how slow do you want your pc to operate?
> 
> Hehe, just kidding
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats quite alright actually. I never did like the lcb9e stepping tho, always seemed to be more of a hassle to get good memory oc, or some types of ram working at all. And some of them just died for no reason.


This LCB9E is still kicking and has topped 300MHz RAM speed before, it's even went beyond 3400 MHz on chilled water so it's an obvious good one.










http://valid.canardpc.com/yvbkpj

Not all chips with that stepping are bad, in fact I've only had one that was a dog but man it was a DOG - Needed the Old Yeller treatment.
Even my Optys with it do rather well, it's all about the silicon lottery.


----------



## ShrimpBrime

That is a decent speed. Was hitting that back in the day with the old s754 rig. Oh man the good times.

And look! Just about stock clocks for modern day processors XD

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2664746


----------



## tamw

How is that nf4 board for 754 compared to the Lanparty nf3 board?
I remember going for records on 754 was a pain in the ass. Still have a nf3-250 and a 4000+ laying around, but mb needs a cap replaced.

How high stable 24/7 speed did you get that 4000+ (or any other 754 cpu) on water? I think I recall getting 2.6-2.7ghz on the ones I tried fully stable on water, but above that was dodgy.. Never used 754 for anything other than benching tho.


----------



## Kryton

The NF4X Infinity is THE board for Socket 754 bar none.

The NF3-250 does have some advantages over it but the Infinity is the best board overall between the two.


----------



## tamw

I'll jump on it if I ever see one then









I did have a DFI Infinity NF4 SLI for 939 as my server/backup game rig for years tho.
Didn't overclock like the lanparty, but ran my opty 170 at 2.8ghz on air for gaming tasks if main rig was down, but mostly 2.6ghz 1.2v or so for near passive server operation.

Regret getting rid of it just for the history, got it dirt cheap in 2006 from a shop that was gonna quit selling DFI for like $40.

I actually tried it as my main gamer too on spare water parts, but went back to air because it was hard getting low noise and good temps in that 4u server case I had











My sexy main gamer with the 175 @ 3.2ghz up until late 2009











I still have all the parts for it, but stored away as it takes up a little too much space for a more or less useless retro hw station..
Kinda getting the tingles to set it up again tho









Miss the days of prime 939 war machines!


----------



## Kryton

The DFI Infinity NF4 SLI you had is the same basic board except it's the 939 version of it - The NF4X even looks like one of those.
I recently did an article for a blog elsewhere and you can see what they are here, I took some pics and you can see exactly what to look for and listed what pros and cons I ran across with these boards.
http://lowbuckpc.net/home/index.php/2017/01/17/retroview-1-nf4x-infinity-amd-socket-754/


----------



## rhkcommander959

I have a few 2x1mb cache CPUs I have been itching to oc, I'll check out their steppings. The benches IIRC it was a tossup between a 3.2ghz 2x512 and 3ghz 2x1, my optys back then didn't much like past 3.1


----------



## tamw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> The DFI Infinity NF4 SLI you had is the same basic board except it's the 939 version of it - The NF4X even looks like one of those.
> I recently did an article for a blog elsewhere and you can see what they are here, I took some pics and you can see exactly what to look for and listed what pros and cons I ran across with these boards.
> http://lowbuckpc.net/home/index.php/2017/01/17/retroview-1-nf4x-infinity-amd-socket-754/


I skimmed through it, haha board recommendations for 754 in 2017








But what the **** happend to the vrms on the one board? They are all missing!

Did enjoy reading tho, nice asus article aswell. Didn't get me fired up for asus, love my dfi's.. but that 2x16x pcie I actually didn't know about, too bad it will be the cpu that bottlenecks and not the pcie slots anyway. For graphics related performance atleast. Think one of my friends had that board back in the day, along with a FX-55 clawhammer that he paid a fortune for. He got quite upset when I beat him in alle the benchmarks with my 4400+ and Abit KN8-SLI








I did get triggered on a x2 4800+ tho, never owned that one









I'm realisticly probably never gonna see a dfi nf4 for 754 in time if they ever appear on ebay, so I bought a Gigabyte GA-K8NE Rev.1.x instead.
Its probably garbage, but will be fun to test it out =)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> I have a few 2x1mb cache CPUs I have been itching to oc, I'll check out their steppings. The benches IIRC it was a tossup between a 3.2ghz 2x512 and 3ghz 2x1, my optys back then didn't much like past 3.1


Yes, post the steppings on your dualcores


----------



## rhkcommander959

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tamw*
> 
> He got quite upset when I beat him in alle the benchmarks with my 4400+ and Abit KN8-SLI
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, post the steppings on your dualcores


I have an Abit KN8-SLI as well, with the µguru panel.
Steppings I could find (missing 3 ihs right now lol), other than the new 4400x2 is:
3800x2 lcbqe 0722xpmw
4400x2 ccbwe 0536xpmw ( i never bought these 4400s, I think I keep getting them from mobo purchases







. I always bought 3800s and opty 165s because budget/performance)

should be another 2 optys, and a 3800x2. I'll keep digging for ihs's they probably fell under the desk

Oops one of these is am2+
5000 BE cacvc ac 0950bpmw, supposed to be able to unlock all 4 cores and maybe support ddr3 - I never spent much time trying, never had any luck. I think it unlocks to an "fx-5000"


----------



## tamw

>3800x2 lcbqe 0722xpmw
That one probably has potential for 3.2ghz

>4400x2 ccbwe 0536xpmw
That sucks








My first 939 cpu was a x2 4400+ ccbwe 0534mpm, did 2.7-2.8 on water with 1.66v or something.

There was one "bw" stepping that was alright, ccbwe 0528 or 0529. A fellow here from norway had one that did 2.9ghz on water with not too high vcore and he ran it at 3.3ghz on a vapochill or something fully stable 24/7









Yea, most dual core people went x2 3800 or opty 165 for the price. I did buy a couple of opteron 165 myself, but got **** steppings both times so sent them back.
The only two cpus I bought new and kept was the first 4400+ in 2005 and then later a Opty 170 ccbbe 0615dpmw that did 3ghz on water summer 2006.

Best ones I ever got ahold of was the 175 in my profile pic CCBBE 0613RPMW, and later a 4400+ LCBBE 0628BPMW. Both 3.2ghz stable on water with around 1.5v.
The 4400+ I actually had the WR with for a while (on old ripping website) with 3.5+ ghz, the day after I got a valitation on 3630mhz I think it was, but transferred to the usb stick with unstable ram or hypertransport later and corrupted EVERYTHING on it so didn't get to post it







still have it, but no idea if it can run them speeds. I may have to try one day, just to show Knut who's 939 boss


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tamw*
> 
> I skimmed through it, haha board recommendations for 754 in 2017
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But what the **** happend to the vrms on the one board? They are all missing!
> 
> Did enjoy reading tho, nice asus article aswell. Didn't get me fired up for asus, love my dfi's.. but that 2x16x pcie I actually didn't know about, too bad it will be the cpu that bottlenecks and not the pcie slots anyway. For graphics related performance atleast. Think one of my friends had that board back in the day, along with a FX-55 clawhammer that he paid a fortune for. He got quite upset when I beat him in alle the benchmarks with my 4400+ and Abit KN8-SLI
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did get triggered on a x2 4800+ tho, never owned that one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm realisticly probably never gonna see a dfi nf4 for 754 in time if they ever appear on ebay, so I bought a Gigabyte GA-K8NE Rev.1.x instead.
> Its probably garbage, but will be fun to test it out =)
> Yes, post the steppings on your dualcores


The vrm's on that board were removed because the board is acting as if it is dead but believe once I get some replacements I can fix it.
May not be the problem but at least it's worth a shot.
BTW that board is the one I held the WR in Socket 754 for ref clock speed and it's still #2 in the world for now.









The DFI's are the preferred boards for 939 no doubt but the A8N32 isn't bad in itself, good all around boards for what I described.
The 16x2 SLI setup can help in some cases with the right chip and RAM making it a good board but components used and the actual setup is the thing. I've actually had better 3D benchies with it than with my DFI's but the DFI's can fly if the bench is largely CPU based.

Each has it's own advantages and I do use them accordingly.


----------



## tamw

I saw your Opty 165 record, quite impressive!









Me and Knut did the 2. place on my old CCBBE 0617FPMW (I think it was that one), same stepping on yours?

Btw, the 3.8ghz 4000+ 754 record... Is there any reason to doubt it? It seems REALLY high for a 754 chip/system to me. Is there any info on stepping?


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tamw*
> 
> I saw your Opty 165 record, quite impressive!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Me and Knut did the 2. place on my old CCBBE 0617FPMW (I think it was that one), same stepping on yours?


TBH I don't know what it is - The chip was a random fleabay purchase and it had already been delidded when I got it. I even tried to ask the seller if they knew what it was or if they still had the lid, never got an answer back from them - Would love to know myself but that's how it goes.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tamw*
> 
> Btw, the 3.8ghz 4000+ 754 record... Is there any reason to doubt it? It seems REALLY high for a 754 chip/system to me. Is there any info on stepping?


I've no real reason to doubt it - Newarks can run and you know how it is over there.


----------



## CrazyMonkey

Been cleaning up my office and decided to give my DFI UT NF3 Ultra-D a treat... A Audigy 2ZS that I had lying around... Here just some pics for the tease:




Specs:
Hiper Type-R 580W Modular
DFI UT NF3 Ultra-D
Opty [email protected]
2x1GB DDR Corsair XMS PC3200
XFX 6800GT 256MB XXX
Audigy 2 ZS
WD 160GB IDE
OEM Case


----------



## tamw

Man, I just love the look of the 462-939 era pc's! That hiper just fits perfectly








Nowadays they have pretty colored lights, but they just come off like they're trying too hard. Its just one stupid gimmic after another. But thats just me tho









I used to have the Creative X-fi Xtreme Music soundcard back then, actually I still have it but don't use because it decides to work when it wants











Btw, I need a better agp card.. Anyone have some suggestions?
Right now my best card is a x1950gt 512mb. It f u c k i n g sucks oc wise.. crashes instantly if I touch the mem, and core have no volt adjustment so only get 80mhz oc.

Is there anything in between the x1950gt and the HD3850/4670 (these are usually quite expensive) that have some overclocking potential? Either ATI or nvidia..


----------



## Mr.Scott

Unfortunately no. Between the 1950 and the HD3850 the only other options are a 7950GT and the afore mentioned HD4670. Neither of which OC worth a damn. The HD3850 is outstanding though. Best AGP card ever made.


----------



## tamw

Damn..

Well, I'll just have to keep my eye open for a 3850 then.

Too bad the x1900xtx never came in agp, love that card!
It did my gaming duties from early 2006 to late 2008 @ 804/900mhz (650/775mhz stock) until a friend gave me a hd3850 (pcie), tho only had it for that long because I was dirt poor during that time.
Wanted a 8800gt pretty bad









My x1900xtx actually runs 810/1000mhz stable (on water of course) with both vcore and vddci at full 1.58v, but didn't know the vddci affected the memory so good back then.
Vrm's squeeled pretty good under load at those voltages/speeds


----------



## Hueristic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tamw*
> 
> Damn..
> 
> Well, I'll just have to keep my eye open for a 3850 then.
> 
> Too bad the x1900xtx never came in agp, love that card!
> It did my gaming duties from early 2006 to late 2008 @ 804/900mhz (650/775mhz stock) until a friend gave me a hd3850 (pcie), tho only had it for that long because I was dirt poor during that time.
> Wanted a 8800gt pretty bad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My x1900xtx actually runs 810/1000mhz stable (on water of course) with both vcore and vddci at full 1.58v, but didn't know the vddci affected the memory so good back then.
> Vrm's squeeled pretty good under load at those voltages/speeds


He thinks he's being smart bye not stateing agp.

https://providence.craigslist.org/sop/6001035015.html


----------



## bfedorov11

anyone ever use a msi k8n diamond mobo? any good?


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bfedorov11*
> 
> anyone ever use a msi k8n diamond mobo? any good?


I've had good luck with my k8 neo 4 platinum boards. They won't get as fast on the fsb as the dfi however. Never had the diamond, would be fun to try one.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> I've had good luck with my k8 neo 4 platinum boards. They won't get as fast on the fsb as the dfi however. Never had the diamond, would be fun to try one.


I have the Neo 2 and Neo 4 boards.








I never had an issue with either. They're fine boards. Some of the better MSI products.


----------



## CrazyMonkey

Just a tease:



As soon as I get some spare time I get this boy onto my LP Nforce4!


----------



## tamw

TAMW Productions, proudly presents:

THE SOCKET 939 LAPTOP







Its a HP Pavilion ZV6000.

Actually, this belongs to a friend of mine (also a BEST socket lover). He traded it from a guy he works with for a surplus digital camera he had laying around








Guy pretty much never used it, its near mint condition!

I never knew socket 939 came in laptops, always thought they went from 754 directly to that Turion stuff..
Guessing these are pretty rare.

Sadly it doesn't support dualcores, you can use them but you only get one core active.
Also it has just one ram slot, plus 256mb onboard that runs in single channel, so it is kinda limited.

But let me talk to you about what it CAN do:









-It has a pretty good 1280x800 screen, around 15", and great speakers for a laptop.

-Wifi
-Desktop 939 socket
-Bluetooth
-Modem/Fax modem
-Ethernet port
-Multicard reader
-Dvd burner
-Vga/svideo out
-A damn remote!
-and the best part off all; DESKTOP 939 SOCKET (if I forgot to mention that)









It runs Radeon Express 200m chipset/graphics as the picture shows, and can actually be overclocked (from windows)
Ran it fine on 350mhz, 300 is stock.

Original cpu was a Sempron 3000+ I believe.
It has been upgraded with a FX-55 (shows up as FX57 for some reason), a 1GB ram stick and a SSD.
The ssd is m.pcie if I remember correctly, with a mpcie->mini ide converter.

I can change the cpu multi and vcore in systool aswell, but that cpu sucks on air so 2.7ghz is max stable on stock volts.
All tho I can, I'm not about to mess with voltage on this, doubt the VRMs are very strong or even cooled.

Pretty cool piece of history if you ask me! Must have been sweet owning it back in the day:yessir:

I have been nagging on knopflerbruce to donate his Opteron 156 for it, but he's being very stubborn about it for some reason


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tamw*
> 
> I have been nagging on knopflerbruce to donate his Opteron 156 for it, but he's being very stubborn about it for some reason


I can understand why.

The lappy is a fairly rare piece now. I like it.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tamw*
> 
> TAMW Productions, proudly presents:
> 
> THE SOCKET 939 LAPTOP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a HP Pavilion ZV6000.
> 
> Actually, this belongs to a friend of mine (also a BEST socket lover). He traded it from a guy he works with for a surplus digital camera he had laying around
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guy pretty much never used it, its near mint condition!
> 
> I never knew socket 939 came in laptops, always thought they went from 754 directly to that Turion stuff..
> Guessing these are pretty rare.
> 
> Sadly it doesn't support dualcores, you can use them but you only get one core active.
> Also it has just one ram slot, plus 256mb onboard that runs in single channel, so it is kinda limited.
> 
> But let me talk to you about what it CAN do:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -It has a pretty good 1280x800 screen, around 15", and great speakers for a laptop.
> 
> -Wifi
> -Desktop 939 socket
> -Bluetooth
> -Modem/Fax modem
> -Ethernet port
> -Multicard reader
> -Dvd burner
> -Vga/svideo out
> -A damn remote!
> -and the best part off all; DESKTOP 939 SOCKET (if I forgot to mention that)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It runs Radeon Express 200m chipset/graphics as the picture shows, and can actually be overclocked (from windows)
> Ran it fine on 350mhz, 300 is stock.
> 
> Original cpu was a Sempron 3000+ I believe.
> It has been upgraded with a FX-55 (shows up as FX57 for some reason), a 1GB ram stick and a SSD.
> The ssd is m.pcie if I remember correctly, with a mpcie->mini ide converter.
> 
> I can change the cpu multi and vcore in systool aswell, but that cpu sucks on air so 2.7ghz is max stable on stock volts.
> All tho I can, I'm not about to mess with voltage on this, doubt the VRMs are very strong or even cooled.
> 
> Pretty cool piece of history if you ask me! Must have been sweet owning it back in the day:yessir:
> 
> I have been nagging on knopflerbruce to donate his Opteron 156 for it, but he's being very stubborn about it for some reason


Wow, thats slick... desktop socket?? Thats weird. NICE!


----------



## gasparspeed

I recall watching some review of a Alienware (or maybe it was a Falcon Northwest, i don't remember) that had a full FX-60 CPU and a 7800GTX GPU (or maybe a SLI or something like that, high end 7000 series). Pretty amazing how they could fit so much power (back then) on a kinda small laptop (i mean, they weren't that small







)


----------



## Rashkae

I miss my old DFI Lanpower board. Circus color sockets but dual LAN ports and it was rock solid. Never a hiccup or hang.


----------



## Mader

I love this thread
Huge thanks to all for the good memories









Edit: DFI Lanparty SLI-DR Expert pic


----------



## RetroJangle

I still Have my A8n-SLI Premium with 8GB ecc RAM....The motherboard manual states 4GB Max using either ECC or non ECC

https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R2CKGUQIA7Y5K4/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_rvw_btm?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B009OPYISW#wasThisHelpful


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetroJangle*
> 
> I still Have my A8n-SLI Premium with 8GB ecc RAM....The motherboard manual states 4GB Max using either ECC or non ECC
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R2CKGUQIA7Y5K4/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_rvw_btm?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B009OPYISW#wasThisHelpful


8GB, thats it? Least you're halfway there...


----------



## rhkcommander959

well I made progress on cleaning off the project table









Found a sapphire pc-a9rd480adv, worked when pulled but covered in bulging capacitors (thats why I pulled it). Sadly not one of those awesome white sapphire boards









sound one of my dead dfi sli deluxe or whatever boards, I for the life of me couldn't keep them alive. The cfx3200s keep going but those nvidia boards always liked dying on me

My plan is to transplant my i7 x5650 setup into another case after I paint and mod it, its been running at 4.1ghz on a single 120 rad for a few years now and algae found its way in so its time to redo. Then rebuild my 939 system in my old raidmax smilodon, which is what the intel is in


----------



## CrazyMonkey

Well it seam that my Beloved DFI NF4 Ultra DR has died.. Sorta...

BSOD all over the place with error 0x0000009C, specially when installing windows... Sad day this one...


----------



## Mr.Scott

Try more vcore. That is a processor error. Either not enough voltage, too hot, or OC too high.


----------



## CrazyMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Try more vcore. That is a processor error. Either not enough voltage, too hot, or OC too high.


Done all that... And OS became corrupt and I needed to Install from scratch... The error appears when Windows XP is installing devices... At around 80% system alts and I get that BSOD... Tried with Windows 7 and the same thing... Windows 10 or 8 does not seem to work on this system...

Also tried different CPU's:
Opty 165, 170, 175, 146, 148
Athlon 3700+, 4200x2

Different Dimms:
512MB DDR400 OEM, 2x1GB Crucial DDR400, 2x1GB GSKILL F1 DDR500, 2x1GB Crucial XMS DDR400, 2x1GB Crucial Value DDR400

Different Hard Drives:
SSD, IDE, SATA

Different VGA Cards:
GF 7200LE, 7600GT, GTX295, GTX 470, AMD X1900XT, X1950Pro, X850GTO

And different PSU's:
EVGA 500W, Chieftech 550W, Thermaltake 500W, Powercolour 550W

And also about 3 different Windows XP Builds (x64 and x86)... Same error at the same stage...


----------



## SwishaMane

Tried cleaning the pins of the CPU socket / DRAM sockets? Pins on RAM itself, CPU itself? Smallest dumbest thing might make you scrap a whole perfectly fine board...


----------



## CrazyMonkey

I just gave the board some rest (is known that from now and then DFI's need some time to rest). In meanwhile I got an ASUS A8N SLI Deluxe to play around on my spare time... Not sure if I'll flash the Premium Bios version or keep the last update Bios for it's version.

Both Opty 146 and 148 are just ready to take some Mhz on top!


----------



## bfedorov11

Any of you guys win the expert?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/132176852713

I wish I was home at the time it ended. I would have bidded it up a bit more. Great price though! It's the only one I seen on ebay in at least three years. Apologies for not posting it here.. I really wanted the ram


----------



## tamw

Not me, I have one









Remember to check both .co.uk and .de also.. I have seen them multiple times there in the last few years, and with a little sweet talkin most will ship anywhere in the world


----------



## seaFs

Well, I decided to revive the 939 rig go the whole nine yards.
No further overclock, but a nice SLI of two 9800GT @ Accelero S1 aaaand Raid 0 with 3x200GB HDDs.

Guys, I need something to stress test all of this. 10 years back this would've made an impressive workstation.


----------



## Mr.Scott

PCMark 05


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Well, I decided to revive the 939 rig go the whole nine yards.
> No further overclock, but a nice SLI of two 9800GT @ Accelero S1 aaaand Raid 0 with 3x200GB HDDs.
> 
> Guys, I need something to stress test all of this. 10 years back this would've made an impressive workstation.


Sweet. What RAM config are you going to run?


----------



## seaFs

Still using 16GB @ 214MHz CL3. Curently I'm running in deep heat issues. Once the case is closed, memory gets too hot (caused by CPU and dual GPU...) and Windows says BSOD without any special error message. Now I'm looking for an IFX-14 so that I don't need the heat spreader plus some 120mm fans for better ventilation.










Photo of the setup a few days ago. No triple Raid 0 and fewer fans than now. 2x Accelero S1 is really nice, if only I had the turbo modules


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Still using 16GB @ 214MHz CL3. Curently I'm running in deep heat issues. Once the case is closed, memory gets too hot (caused by CPU and dual GPU...) and Windows says BSOD without any special error message. Now I'm looking for an IFX-14 so that I don't need the heat spreader plus some 120mm fans for better ventilation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Photo of the setup a few days ago. No triple Raid 0 and fewer fans than now. 2x Accelero S1 is really nice, if only I had the turbo modules


Such a cool rig!








But, isn't the lower S1 almost touching the bottom of the case? A turbo module would't fit (unless it has more clearance than it looks like in the pic)

Also, i see you are located in Germany. Just saw this brand new








http://www.ebay.de/itm/Lufter-Turbo-Module-compatibel-mit-Accelero-1-und-2-neu-/112414977292?hash=item1a2c746d0c:g:fXwAAOSw7FRWXrej


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Still using 16GB @ 214MHz CL3. Curently I'm running in deep heat issues. Once the case is closed, memory gets too hot (caused by CPU and dual GPU...) and Windows says BSOD without any special error message. Now I'm looking for an IFX-14 so that I don't need the heat spreader plus some 120mm fans for better ventilation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Photo of the setup a few days ago. No triple Raid 0 and fewer fans than now. 2x Accelero S1 is really nice, if only I had the turbo modules


Sweet! So, RAM is overheating even with fan on them?? Doesn't make sense.


----------



## seaFs

When the case is closed, the memory gets all the heat from GPUs and CPU. An open case lying on the side is no solution.
In addition I made an opening in the front to push fresh air with an 120mm fan inside. That helped cooling the cards, but not the RAM... time for water cooling? Pretty expensive for a fun system

Besides. 8GB working good on A8N-SLI Premium. But this board dosn't have all the tweaiking options like the A8N32. or did I miss a bios update?


----------



## Mr.Scott

Exhaust fan.








Get one.
Big difference.


----------



## seaFs

Or I mod the case to inverted ATX. Some years ago the case for my 775 system went through this torture: never regretted it









It's always the CPU-nearest DIMM that gets too hot. There is not much space to insert heat spreaders between the DIMMs and the CPU heatsink blocks the way of air. Best would be sort of a "tunnel" around the DIMMs that gets ventilated by fresh air. The same thing could apply to the GPUs.


----------



## tamw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> time for water cooling? Pretty expensive for a fun system


Watercooling parts for such old systems are usually pretty cheap tho.. 1x or 2x120mm radiator, a 939 compatible cpu block (pretty much any waterblock) + some old res and pump.. Gpu blocks can sometimes be a little harder to find dirt cheap, but they can be found.









Btw I kind of want to try 8/16gb on my Abit kn8-sli or Asrock 790gx, you guys have any suggestions on sticks to be found cheap?


----------



## seaFs

Some progress: I put my lapped IFX-14 bac onto the die. Now the heat problems are mostly gone and I can focus on the real problem (again). The memory is not stable...

When playing just one race at Need for Speed Hot Pursuit 2010 (running CPU-limited at 3200x1800), the game crashes before I reach the finish, killing the whole machine without any error message or blue screen.After a reset Windows event viewer just states a warning, that an ECC error occured and has been corrected. At least I now have a test that finds errors withoin 5 minutes. That's all I wanted


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Exhaust fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Get one.
> Big difference.


Yeah for serious tho. Somehow i didn't see there was no rear exhaust fan too, lol.


----------



## tamw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Some progress: I put my lapped IFX-14 bac onto the die. Now the heat problems are mostly gone and I can focus on the real problem (again). The memory is not stable...
> 
> When playing just one race at Need for Speed Hot Pursuit 2010 (running CPU-limited at 3200x1800), the game crashes before I reach the finish, killing the whole machine without any error message or blue screen.After a reset Windows event viewer just states a warning, that an ECC error occured and has been corrected. At least I now have a test that finds errors withoin 5 minutes. That's all I wanted


What settings are you running on the mem and rest of the system? You may need to up some voltages or lower speeds and increase timings, 4x4gb isn't something the 939 memory controllers were designed for









Have you tried running memtest? You can get it for free from their website and run it from a usb stick, and it usually reveals memory instabilities.


----------



## seaFs

The RAM is running at 214.5MHz 3-4-3-8 1T. I did the deed and upped the voltage to 2.7V... and it is running... for now








To find out the most stable settings I set it temporarily to 230MHz and tweaked a bit.

Result was
- DDR clock skew advanced 300ps
- drive strength weak
- data drive strength 30% reduced
- async latency 7ns
- read preamble time 5.5ns

All this looks good and the internet says the same things about Samsung UCCC chips. Not much volts, reduction in drive strength.

The instabilities seemed to come from the CPU. Two years ago the delidded Toledo did 3GHz with 1.296V hitting 45°C, now it needs 1.324V with 60°C full load. I guess it'S the case that lacks the big 250mm fan (my main rig is in the AeroCool Extremengine 3T...)

But the system withstands quick and dirty tests with Prime95 (1344k inplace FFT for CPU, blend 768k 15200MB for RAM). NFS HP 2010 doesn't crash, either. Further testing when I have a little more time.


----------



## tamw

2.8v shouldn't be a problem either on the ram if that helps stability, just keep some air flow over them and they won't get too hot. Other than winbond chips that likes 3.2v+, I found 2.7-2.8v to be the sweetspot for stability and oc ability on most ram.

Lowering the cpu temp probably whould help too, back when you ran with lower volts and temp, did you use the 4x4gb ram then? higher density ram puts more stress on the imc and probably require higher vcore..


----------



## tamw

btw, what stepping is your cpu?


----------



## seaFs

Even with 2.5 volts the memory gets pretty hot. It's double stacked, so almost no space between two DIMMs for good air flow.
I'm very surprised that it didn't overheat and crash immediatelly with 2.7V. Let's see what the memory can do...

This RAM is registered, so the load for the IMC is heavily reduced, because addressing signals are not handled by the CPU for every memory chip. For addressing the IMC just sees 8 buffer chips, not a total of 144 separate memory chips. After chip select is done, the IMC speaks to just 2x72bits of memory.

CPU is E6, Toledo 4400+ 2x1MB.
RAM is called Samsung M312L5128AU1-CCC


----------



## tamw

Unless they feel burning hot to the touch, overheating isn't likely an issue. You can always look into some heatspreaders for them tho









Thanks for the info ragarding registered ram, I might have a look tor the same sticks









With stepping I meant the week batch or whatever its called (like ccbbe 0615epmw), we just called it stepping back in the day


----------



## seaFs

LCB9E 0630 APMW
Said to be a good (but not exceptional) clocker or undervolter. A similar batch did 3.2 @ 1.45V under water.

The DIMMs get burning hot at stock volts without any fan above them. This seems to be normal for registered DIMMs. At least 4x2GB with BGA chips show the same hot behaviour. Normally a blade server 1U or 2U is well ventilated, noise is no problem. But for me noise matters, sometimes more than overclocking.


----------



## tamw

3.2ghz @ 1.45v is pretty ****** good on water! If its 100% stable that is.. Actually, thats better than my Opteron 175 CCBBE 0613RPMW, that needs 1.5v for 3.2ghz









You should consider watercooling like I suggested before if you can find cheap parts, that stepping is world class!
I can't remember seeing anything above 3.2ghz run stable on water for 939, certainly not one with full 2mb cache


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tamw*
> 
> I can't remember seeing anything above 3.2ghz run stable on water for 939, certainly not one with full 2mb cache


I have quite a few.








3.2 @ < 1.5v is my target mark when binning. Generally, adding a bit of 'cold' after that will get you into good benching range.


----------



## tamw

Yeah I know, I was talking fully stable tho


----------



## SwishaMane

Hey guys, my 16GB of RAM is showing only 15GB use-able in Win7. Even in CPU-Z, the 16,384MB # is down into the 15,000 (15,360 or something) range, showing some of my RAM cut-off. Any idea how? What setting? Never used to do that. IDK what effect its had / having on my machine, none that are immediately noticeable I guess. Just wondering why.

No screenshot right now, but I'll try to remember to get one next time I run the machine.


----------



## seaFs

Play with the following Bios settings

CPU settings --> MTRR mapping continuous/discrete
CPU settings --> DRAM config --> Hardware memory hole must be enabled.

With two graphics cards you lose 256MB additional to the 1MB reserved for the PCI memory hole.
But who cares about 257MB in a pool of 16GB


----------



## toxick

This is what I have!


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tamw*
> 
> Yeah I know, I was talking fully stable tho


I am talking fully stable.
Matter of fact, I have a couple Opterons that are 24/7 stable at better than 3.3


----------



## tamw

Holy christ.. On regular water?

What cpu's and steppings?


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tamw*
> 
> Holy christ.. On regular water?
> 
> What cpu's and steppings?


Yes. Regular water.
If you're seriously interested, I'll pull them and get that info for you.


----------



## tamw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Yes. Regular water.
> If you're seriously interested, I'll pull them and get that info for you.


Oh god yes, I need to know!

Never knew such beasts existed


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tamw*
> 
> Never knew such beasts existed


Yep - It's like hunting pokemon to find one.









Have one or two myself that's capable of it.


----------



## seaFs

What was max stable on air? I can barely hold 3.1 because of too much heat


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> What was max stable on air? I can barely hold 3.1 because of too much heat


That's about right. 3.1-3.2 ish.


----------



## seaFs

Hmm, so decreasing temps to ~35°C is possible with water cooling? Combined with GPU blocks I could get the heat completely out of the case and can slap two delta fans over the RAM. Turbine massacre for maximum clocks







Aaah, sounds too good to be true...


----------



## Mr.Scott

My load temps were 40ish running Cinebench15.


----------



## rhkcommander959

Well I finally found a working a8n32-sli, at least it posted! Got my 4x4ram, SSD, a gt260, just need to finish cleaning some things up and make a fun rig:thumb:. Still sanding the peltier cold plate, been sick and busy so haven't had much time.

Jealous of those fast opterons, I need to get me a 3.2+'er going. I think only my 3800x2 could do that.


----------



## tamw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> Yep - It's like hunting pokemon to find one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have one or two myself that's capable of it.


What steppings are yours?


----------



## Kryton

The one I KNOW can do it is an unknown - Was already delidded when I got it and of course no lid came with it.

I even tried to contact the guy I got it from to ask about the lid itself but never got a reply back. Personally I believe it's probrably an LCBQE chip, those being the last and probrably the best stepping with LCB9E right behind it.


----------



## seaFs

Current status


HDDs placed in the wrong direction.
GPU power connectors desoldered placed at back of PCB, also turned the connectors 90°
Both things done to allow an 120mm fan to be placed between HDDs and graphics cards for better cooling. Previously the HDDs were mounted in the upper right of the case below the DVD drive, making them run very hot (47°C...)

GPUs stay at 65°C with Furmark and HDDs below 30°C while defragmentation.

I'm currently searching for two GTS250 1GB, because the 9800GTs are crippled by only 512MB while downsampling (3200x1800 and higher).


----------



## tamw

seaFs, You should get a Coolermaster HAF case!

I have the HAF 922, its probably the most compact of them for full atx, and the airflow is amazing. Have to be one of the best cases for aircooling out there









I don't know how availeble they are nowadays, but a few years ago they were pretty popular. Shouldn't be impossible to find used for a nice price.

But I still vote you should get that cpu under water, shame to let a 3.2ghz chip drag around at a slow ass 3ghz


----------



## DR4G00N

Got myself a little 939 system the other day.

Opteron 180
KN8 SLI
4x1GB Kingston DDR400 with Hynix ic's and Brainpower PCB
NZXT Lexa case
Enermax 650w psu

So far running the cpu @ 3.1GHz (262x12) 1.45V on air with bare die. I've tested the board to do 320 fsb with 1.6V VDD


----------



## rhkcommander959

nice little find there!

I just got my old gt240 from palit back, 1gb of gddr5. Should be perfect for 939, its like a beefed up 8800









Now I just gotta pick a case for the new a8n32


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> Got myself a little 939 system the other day.
> 
> Opteron 180
> KN8 SLI
> 4x1GB Kingston DDR400 with Hynix ic's and Brainpower PCB
> NZXT Lexa case
> Enermax 650w psu
> 
> So far running the cpu @ 3.1GHz (262x12) 1.45V on air with bare die. I've tested the board to do 320 fsb with 1.6V VDD


OH MY, you freaked me out. Thats looks like my old Lexa case from back in the day. The stickers on the front bezel and everything. I know its not, but looks ALMOST exact. I modded the side panel for extra intake, so...







Man, freaky.


----------



## seaFs

Because the VRAM of the 9800GT was so limited, I decided to get the right card. Not a GTS250, this one is not old enough







A decision was made in favour of the most impressive video card of 2007.



Unfortunately the card is 2cm too long for my case. When I'm finished with fiddling, new pictures will follow.


----------



## seaFs

So, the card is in the case, with the help of a little bending the HDD cage.
This thing is so damn huge







Well, I guess that's normal for a top-notch workstation card. A Quadro FX5600. Basically a 8800GTX with twice the memory.

G80 600/1350MHz
1536MB GDDR3 800MHz
TPD is at lousy 171W

So far it works good, NFS HP 2010 is running slower, but still somewhat playable at 3200x1800 (compared to 9800GT SLI). But no big frame drops anymore.

I also plugged in an Adaptec SAS Raid controller and am now running 4x72GB 10k SAS HDDs in Raid 0.

So my "uber 939 workstation" is almost complete.


----------



## seaFs

Overkil incoming







The second Quadro FX5600 arrived today.


----------



## SwishaMane




----------



## The Pook

Got some Team Xtreem sticks of Micron D9GMH and I've got a pair of GTX 9800GTX+ and a pair of 8800GS GPUs I've been thinking about putting into a 939 system but really wanna find the mobo I had back in the day (Biostar TForce 6100 mATX).

Thing clocked like a mini DFI Lanparty


----------



## toxick

12 years later and it's still working


----------



## The Pook

Non-OCed DFI Lanparty? Blasphemy.


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Pook*
> 
> Non-OCed DFI Lanparty? Blasphemy.


That's just what I was about to say.


----------



## toxick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> That's just what I was about to say.


I use this system almost daily, I'm intigued how it still starts.
In fact its starts faster then my Ryzen 1800X with CH6 mobo:thumbsdow


----------



## toxick

And a photo.

When I'll have the time I'll post a few photos with my other 939 system with Athlon 4800+ and crossfire Ati x850, also functional.


----------



## DR4G00N

Got a few LanParty boards a little while ago myself, very solid OC'ing boards with the right bios.









nF4 SLI-DR Expert
nF4 Ultra-D
nF3 250Gb - Brand new w/ all accessories (not 939 I know but it's close enough I think)


----------



## toxick

I'm back.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> nF3 250Gb - Brand new w/ all accessories (not 939 I know but it's close enough I think)


Not brand new with all those blown caps.


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Not brand new with all those blown caps.


Okay, maybe not brand new. Unused and sitting in the box for 10 or so years would be more correct I think. Need to order up some new ones for it.


----------



## rhkcommander959

those nf3 were neat, always wanted one back in the day. You can modify a Turion to run in there, still single core but probably the best you could do in it. Even heard a few reports of 3ghz or so. Would be a great way to go if you did use it


----------



## Kryton

It will run a Turion no prob with the right cooling setup and yes I've had one above 3.0 in mine and the NF4X.


----------



## SwishaMane

Ooh yeah, bubbly caps. Need any help fixing them, there's a few of us here who can solder good.


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Ooh yeah, bubbly caps. Need any help fixing them, there's a few of us here who can solder good.


Soldering is no problem, have all the equipment already just need the new caps.









Will recap the entire board (except 100uF ones) since they are all the crap KZG's and are probably bad anyway.


----------



## TheN00bBuilder

Bump! Dunno how this sunk down so far, but it feels like the best place to ask...

I just bought an Abit KN8-SLI and it can't overclock worth a rat's.... yeah. With 3x HTT multiplier, 7X multiplier on CPU, and 1.7V on NF4, 1.5V on CPU, and 3V on RAM, the max clock I can get out of it is a 230 MHz bus speed. The RAM and CPU are not a problem, they clocked well on my A8N32 board. So... whats up with it? I can't find out how to turn off Spread Spectrum and also put it on 1T, is that my problem?


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheN00bBuilder*
> 
> Bump! Dunno how this sunk down so far, but it feels like the best place to ask...
> 
> I just bought an Abit KN8-SLI and it can't overclock worth a rat's.... yeah. With 3x HTT multiplier, 7X multiplier on CPU, and 1.7V on NF4, 1.5V on CPU, and 3V on RAM, the max clock I can get out of it is a 230 MHz bus speed. The RAM and CPU are not a problem, they clocked well on my A8N32 board. So... whats up with it? I can't find out how to turn off Spread Spectrum and also put it on 1T, is that my problem?


What's the rest of the system? I have that board so I might be of help.


----------



## TheN00bBuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> What's the rest of the system? I have that board so I might be of help.


Awesome, I hope you can too, lol. Specs are...

Opteron 165
Abit KN8-SLI
2GB (2x1GB) OCZ Platinum RAM
2x GTX8800s in SLI (it didn't include a Shadow Card)
Corsair RM850
Titan Vanessa S-Type cooler

Think that's all of it.


----------



## DR4G00N

Are you using both of the purple ram slot's? Try different ram & cpu's if you have any more. The command rate setting can be found below the ram timings in the Advanced Chipset features.

Maybe try flashing the bios to the same or newer version.

Btw if you want to run single gpu just use the second x16 slot.

Edit: also, what are all the settings you're using? Could just be a mis-configuration problem.


----------



## TheN00bBuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> Are you using both of the purple ram slot's? Try different ram & cpu's if you have any more. The command rate setting can be found below the ram timings in the Advanced Chipset features.
> 
> Maybe try flashing the bios to the same or newer version.
> 
> Btw if you want to run single gpu just use the second x16 slot.
> 
> Edit: also, what are all the settings you're using? Could just be a mis-configuration problem.


Uhh... purple? I've been using blue. LOL, I should have read the manual. Found command rate, it didn't change anything, and I can try lots of other RAM and CPUs. And also, thank you for the workaround for the Shadow Card, was afraid I had to buy one.

Config is bone stock minus some voltage, 1T, and the RAM MHz set to the lowest.

EDIT; RAM slot change didn't work. Time to try flashing BIOS, how do I check the model of the current one?


----------



## Mr.Scott

The KN8 was never a race horse. 230-235 was about it. NB needs more voltage to go faster. 250 would be a good board.


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheN00bBuilder*
> 
> Uhh... purple? I've been using blue. LOL, I should have read the manual. Found command rate, it didn't change anything, and I can try lots of other RAM and CPUs. And also, thank you for the workaround for the Shadow Card, was afraid I had to buy one.
> 
> Config is bone stock minus some voltage, 1T, and the RAM MHz set to the lowest.
> 
> EDIT; RAM slot change didn't work. Time to try flashing BIOS, how do I check the model of the current one?


You have to look at the date of the bios, it can be found at the bottom left of the post screen or in the CPU-Z mobo tab. Newest one is bios 1.9 dated 05/15/2006 or 05/30/2006 I think.

Edit:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> The KN8 was never a race horse. 230-235 was about it. NB needs more voltage to go faster. 250 would be a good board.


It's no DFI of course but surely 230-235 is just too low for NF4 chipset right? My KN8 SLI does 270-280 on 1.5V VDD if I remember correctly.


----------



## TheN00bBuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> The KN8 was never a race horse. 230-235 was about it. NB needs more voltage to go faster. 250 would be a good board.


250? Seriously, thats a bit odd. My Asus board with the same chipset does almost 310, but then maxes out after that. The CPU can for sure go higher (even with low multi, 310 is tops) so I hoped this board was the answer.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> You have to look at the date of the bios, it can be found at the bottom left of the post screen or in the CPU-Z mobo tab. Newest one is bios 1.9 dated 05/15/2006 or 05/30/2006 I think.
> 
> Edit:
> It's no DFI of course but surely 230-235 is just too low for NF4 chipset right? My KN8 SLI does 270-280 on 1.5V VDD if I remember correctly.


BIOS is dated 3/27/2006, I might have to try updating the BIOS. If that doesn't work, guess its back off to eBay, hopefully to find a DFI board.

Thanks guys also, for all the help.


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheN00bBuilder*
> 
> 250? Seriously, thats a bit odd. My Asus board with the same chipset does almost 310, but then maxes out after that. The CPU can for sure go higher (even with low multi, 310 is tops) so I hoped this board was the answer.
> BIOS is dated 3/27/2006, I might have to try updating the BIOS. If that doesn't work, guess its back off to eBay, hopefully to find a DFI board.
> 
> Thanks guys also, for all the help.


If you want a DFI you can probably find one fairly easily if you post a WTB thread in the classifieds. I found my boards pretty quick that way.


----------



## TheN00bBuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> If you want a DFI you can probably find one fairly easily if you post a WTB thread in the classifieds. I found my boards pretty quick that way.


Good plan. I guess I'll go make one and get ready to sell this other board, don't want to brick it on accident with a BIOS update. Thanks again!


----------



## Mr.Scott

Lol. You guys kill me.
Just because it's NF4 chipset doesn't mean it'll be a screamer.
Seriously, you're looking for DFI performance from boards that were half the cost.
Ain't happening.
For 939
DFI NF4 boards
Asus A8N32-sli

There are a couple others that go, but not in the same class as these two....and the KN8 ain't one of 'em.


----------



## TheN00bBuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Lol. You guys kill me.
> Just because it's NF4 chipset doesn't mean it'll be a screamer.
> Seriously, you're looking for DFI performance from boards that were half the cost.
> Ain't happening.
> For 939
> DFI NF4 boards
> Asus A8N32-sli
> 
> There are a couple others that go, but not in the same class as these two....and the KN8 ain't one of 'em.


My only thought was ABIT was a good manufacturer in the 462 days, so I thought that would carry over. Guess I stick to my A8N32-SLI... even though it is pretty junk.


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheN00bBuilder*
> 
> My only thought was ABIT was a good manufacturer in the 462 days, so I thought that would carry over. Guess I stick to my A8N32-SLI... even though it is pretty junk.


I have the Fata1ty board from Abit and it does alright, though it was more expensive at the time. Its a pain to get to boot most times and goes through batteries, but it would do 334 clock though. I'd stick with the Asus though. My A8R32-MVP has been my fav board in my collection (never did get an expert to play around with though).


----------



## TheN00bBuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> I have the Fata1ty board from Abit and it does alright, though it was more expensive at the time. Its a pain to get to boot most times and goes through batteries, but it would do 334 clock though. I'd stick with the Asus though. My A8R32-MVP has been my fav board in my collection (never did get an expert to play around with though).


Thats odd, because now this board actually goes higher than my Asus board. As a last hurrah, I upped the NF4 voltage to 2V and it can easily do 334 bus clock. I think it needs better cooling to go farther, but man... what a beast. It isn't a DFI board, but dang does it clock.


----------



## Kryton

I know the A8N32 I have has reached 350 on the bus before but now that's it's gotten older around 340 or so is the limit with the right chip.
Things do get old and eventually wear out so I'm just taking it as it comes. Also have to say with age it's gotten kinda cranky vs the way it was when new.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> I have the Fata1ty board from Abit and it does alright, though it was more expensive at the time. Its a pain to get to boot most times and goes through batteries, but it would do 334 clock though.


The AN8 boards are one of the exceptions I was talking about.









I would actually prefer one of those over the Asus board, but that's just me.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> I know the A8N32 I have has reached 350 on the bus before but now that's it's gotten older around 340 or so is the limit with the right chip.
> Things do get old and eventually wear out so I'm just taking it as it comes. Also have to say with age it's gotten kinda cranky vs the way it was when new.


I was just about to say something like this. You guys are talking about decade old boards. They are not going to perform the same as when new by a mile! lol


----------



## gasparspeed

Hey guys, i'm back to benching my FX-60 and i just got this new Thermaltake Ruby Orb heatsink which turned out to be pretty disappointing (80+ºC running Cinebench).
I'll switch to other heatsink but my question is, which would be optimal temps to bench my FX-60? Or the "shouldn't go above" temp? Considering I want to run this @ 2.9-3ish Ghz


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasparspeed*
> 
> Hey guys, i'm back to benching my FX-60 and i just got this new Thermaltake Ruby Orb heatsink which turned out to be pretty disappointing (80+ºC running Cinebench).
> I'll switch to other heatsink but my question is, which would be optimal temps to bench my FX-60? Or the "shouldn't go above" temp? Considering I want to run this @ 2.9-3ish Ghz


<60C usually, the lower the better really. I run a Freezer 64 on my stuff for air, unusual to see temps past 50C on a dual.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> <60C usually, the lower the better really. I run a Freezer 64 on my stuff for air, unusual to see temps past 50C on a dual.


Great! Thanks! Actually, just installed a Freezer 64 Pro


----------



## Mr.Scott

Ideally, under 50c for 939.


----------



## gasparspeed

Well, then i'm doing pretty bad, can't really go over 2.7Ghz and pass Cinebench R15, at 2.7Ghz with 1.375v set on BIOS (which translates to 1.424V aprox on Windows) i get 70-75ºC at late stages of the bench. 1.4v set in BIOS gives me 1.45V effective VCore and that makes it run over 80ºC reaching 85ºC (motherboard's max setting for thermal shutdown) before even ending the bench.

Didn't remember this board was _that_ bad, can't OC via base clock because no matter what number i dial in, it stays at 200Mhz all day, voltage control is ****y and just gives the CPU 0.05V extra over the voltage I set.









Also BIOS doesn't really detect correctly my FX-60 (marked as AMD Unknown Processor and at the same time as FX-60 on CPU-Z)

Now i miss my DFI Lanparty Expert... Gotta get new caps for it, any suggestion on what caps use (brand or something)?


----------



## Mr.Scott

What board are you running that FX60 in?
Temp seems extremely hot for the voltage and clock your running.


----------



## gasparspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> What board are you running that FX60 in?
> Temp seems extremely hot for the voltage and clock your running.


DFI NF4 Infinity with a BIOS you gave me long time ago on this thread.

The main problem is the IHS on this CPU was modified or something, it's got lots of scratches that form a circle just on the middle of the IHS, you almost can't even see the 64 FX and FX-60 marks on the IHS, plus, I think the TIM under the IHS is pretty bad since i've got 10ºC differences in temps between cores, that's why i hit so high temps, those are temps from Core #2, #1 stays 10ºC lower (60ºC or so).

Right now i did stable 3Ghz @ 1.475v (1.425v set in BIOS) HWBot Prime benchmarks since the bench itself is pretty short, but on a long continuous load like Cinebench R15 temps slowly rise until reaching those 70+ºC.


----------



## mattliston

time to recap all the things and dip it in mineral oil!


----------



## Mr.Scott

Your FX60 is just 'well enjoyed'.
Needs a de-lid and new TIM.
Most of my 939 duals are the same way.


----------



## The Pook

Delid, new paste, and lap









Or just run delided.


----------



## agentx007

Sad news :
My trusted A8N32 SLI Deluxe MB died suddenly








MCH/South Bridge fried itself :


Luckily, my CPU/GPU survived (FX-60 + GTX 780 Ti), don't know if RAM did as well (but I think it should, since CPU is OK).
Now I have to buy another one, but should I go for exact same board ?
OR maybe I should buy A8R32-MVP instead ?
Thoughts ?

I want a board with ECC *Registred* support.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agentx007*
> 
> Sad news :
> My trusted A8N32 SLI Deluxe MB died suddenly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MCH/South Bridge fried itself :
> 
> 
> Luckily, my CPU/GPU survived (FX-60 + GTX 780 Ti), don't know if RAM did as well (but I think it should, since CPU is OK).
> Now I have to buy another one, but should I go for exact same board ?
> OR maybe I should buy A8R32-MVP instead ?
> Thoughts ?
> 
> I want a board with ECC *Registred* support.


Ohh, dam... my condolences... We lost another soldier. eBay would be my first stop shop on a specific board from this era unless someone from the group can part.

Man...


----------



## agentx007

Thank you.
I will miss it, since it was the board I reached 3GHz+ on FX-60 and had 8GB of RAM.
Would like to know why it burned up (1-st power on - no POST, 2-nd - no POST, 3-rd after power was cut to PSU = smoke from under heatsink, and result can be seen on pics).

eBay is too expensive (shipping), I already found both A8N32-SLI and A8R32-MVP locally.
My only problem is, can A8R32-MVP support ECC registered RAM (to have 8GB of RAM) ?
A8R32-MVP is almost 70% more expensive than A8N32 SLI (!).
It's ~35$ for MVP and ~20$ for A8N32.


----------



## toughacton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agentx007*
> 
> Thank you.
> I will miss it, since it was the board I reached 3GHz+ on FX-60 and had 8GB of RAM.
> Would like to know why it burned up (1-st power on - no POST, 2-nd - no POST, 3-rd after power was cut to PSU = smoke from under heatsink, and result can be seen on pics).
> 
> eBay is too expensive (shipping), I already found both A8N32-SLI and A8R32-MVP locally.
> My only problem is, can A8R32-MVP support ECC registered RAM (to have 8GB of RAM) ?
> A8R32-MVP is almost 70% more expensive than A8N32 SLI (!).
> It's ~35$ for MVP and ~20$ for A8N32.


I have 8 GB on my A8R32-mvp just fine along with a 3GHz chip. I think i posted further back in this thread. It also does ECC. Pretty solid board I must say.


----------



## FlawleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agentx007*
> 
> Sad news :
> My trusted A8N32 SLI Deluxe MB died suddenly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MCH/South Bridge fried itself :
> 
> 
> Luckily, my CPU/GPU survived (FX-60 + GTX 780 Ti), don't know if RAM did as well (but I think it should, since CPU is OK).
> Now I have to buy another one, but should I go for exact same board ?
> OR maybe I should buy A8R32-MVP instead ?
> Thoughts ?
> 
> I want a board with ECC *Registred* support.


I'm selling my Asus A8N32 SLI Deluxe actually ? It's in the B/S/T section

*EDIT* Scratch that...I forgot to add my username and date so it was removed.


----------



## rhkcommander959

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toughacton*
> 
> I have the Fata1ty board from Abit and it does alright, though it was more expensive at the time. Its a pain to get to boot most times and goes through batteries, but it would do 334 clock though. I'd stick with the Asus though. My A8R32-MVP has been my fav board in my collection (never did get an expert to play around with though).


Like this guy?
http://abit.ws/page/en/motherboard/[email protected]_NAME=AN8+SLI&fMTYPE=Socket+939

I have one of these sitting around. Use to work, might still but I need to get to it.
Says it supports up to 8gb of memory, so I might try the same memory as I have for the asus a8n32-sli









Have the guru panel for it too. Loved using that on the abit p35 board that would do over 500 fsb, just wish they would of made a ddr3 version.

Speaking of abit, who in the heck is keeping their old website up?


----------



## Kryton

Hey guys, check this out: http://hwbot.org/submission/3658758_

Look at that LOW CPU voltage with the speed it was running at.









I even did a vid of the run from system setup in the BIOS to the run being completed after I saw what the chip was doing as proof of it.
Haven't posted up the vid yet but can do so at anytime if need be.

Yeah, I'm showing off but with a chip like this it's justified to make you guys


----------



## seaFs

Damn, that's just a bit lower than my Toledo did







What liquid cooling did you put on the chip?


----------



## Kryton

Just regular H2O, no chilled water or the like used.


----------



## rhkcommander959

What stepping? Real nice. Have you tried for higher?


----------



## SoloCamo

Anyone else using a FX-8 series stock heatsink on a dual core s939 cpu? Made it work on my opteron 180 w/ gelid gc extreme and temps are great even at 2.7ghz.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhkcommander959*
> 
> What stepping? Real nice. Have you tried for higher?


Don't know - Was delidded when I got it and I did try to ask the guy I got it from if he still had it's lid but got no reply from him.

@Solocamel:
As long as it's one of the copper based coolers it should work fine, more or less the same as the stock Opty coolers your chip would have came with, heatpipes and all.


----------



## rhkcommander959

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agentx007*
> 
> Sad news :
> My trusted A8N32 SLI Deluxe MB died suddenly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MCH/South Bridge fried itself :
> 
> 
> Luckily, my CPU/GPU survived (FX-60 + GTX 780 Ti), don't know if RAM did as well (but I think it should, since CPU is OK).
> Now I have to buy another one, but should I go for exact same board ?
> OR maybe I should buy A8R32-MVP instead ?
> Thoughts ?
> 
> I want a board with ECC *Registred* support.


Stock bubblegum paste probably wasn't making contact anymore. Those nf4 chipsets love to burn up.

You could try to transplant bga chips, if you dont trust normal solder. Stays molted for half a minute or more. Hot air station or careful use with a heat gun to heat up new and old IC. 10$ and up on ebay, might be able to find cheaper elsewhere


----------



## agentx007

Already bought/received replacement board (A8N32).
However, it doesn't work with my 4GB (per DIMM) Reg RAM








Best result : It recognises capacity (with other 2GB/DIMM ECC), but can't use it...

I moved on to something else ("Project Madness")


----------



## seaFs

Self quote
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> The only way to get 32GB running is by using Opteron 2xx and Dual 940 boards. get two Opty 290, OC to HT222MHz and enjoy 3.1 GHz... if you get it running.
> 
> Well, sounds like another plan


Aaaaand here we go with the first pieces of the puzzle.


Dual Opteron 290. I'm still waiting for the board. I guess 16GB will be sufficient, as 32GB will be downclocked to DDR266 (at least this is written in the manual)


----------



## Kryton

I ran across an old DangerDen CPU block for $18 plus shipping earlier today.

Was needing a better one for my 939 and stuff that uses the two screws/holes in the board so I got it before someone else did. Was said to still be in new condition, never used and they had simply stashed it away.

Here's the listing link so you can read it's description and see pics of it:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-Danger-Den-TDX-A64-Water-Block-for-AMD-Athlon64-CPU-Socket-754-939-940/152705685057?hash=item238df7d641%3Ag%3AILYAAOSw-wFZbbNT

You'll have to select "See original listing" since of course the listing has ended.

I think I scored a good deal on this.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> I ran across an old DangerDen CPU block for $18 plus shipping earlier today.
> 
> Was needing a better one for my 939 and stuff that uses the two screws/holes in the board so I got it before someone else did. Was said to still be in new condition, never used and they had simply stashed it away.
> 
> Here's the listing link so you can read it's description and see pics of it:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-Danger-Den-TDX-A64-Water-Block-for-AMD-Athlon64-CPU-Socket-754-939-940/152705685057?hash=item238df7d641%3Ag%3AILYAAOSw-wFZbbNT
> 
> You'll have to select "See original listing" since of course the listing has ended.
> 
> I think I scored a good deal on this.


I think I have one of those, haven't used it yet.


----------



## Kryton

It's here and smaller than I thought it would be but as long as it gives good temps that shoudn't matter.

I'll have to clean it up with acetone, then if needed use some Brasso to the bottom where the plastic/stuck on stuff is to complete the process. I believe this may turn out to be the best block for what I have that's 754/939 related - Not that the OCZ block hasn't been good itself but it doesn't make full contact across the CPU lid's surface so..... I'll give it a try before long.









I did see a Swiftech Apogee block also but out of my price range, it should sell quickly being how good those are and the fact they can be used with most anything.


----------



## Cncrcmoto

Boy does this thread bring back some memories!

I came across my DDR500 2Gb kit (https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/GSkill/4000-2GBHZ/ ) and wanted ask if anyone thinks it would be worthwhile to find it a new home? Otherwise, its probably just going to keep collecting dust and be reminisced on from time to time


----------



## lexer

The past weekend was holiday in my country. So i was really bored and i played a little bit with this K8-Upgrade, it can give a little bit more but i need more time to tweak it.
>VID Mod + FB mod - vcore up to 1.71v
>Vdimm up to 3.12v




P.D: I know is 754 sorry


----------



## Mr.Scott

Nothing wrong with 754.
Nice v-mods.


----------



## lexer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Nothing wrong with 754.
> Nice v-mods.


Thank you Scott


----------



## seaFs

So this is my new beast machine. Not 939, but dual 940. Dissipates around 600W of heat in a case that barely holds an EATX-board (after removing the drive cages) an two full-length cards.


----------



## lexer

What GPUs are those ?


----------



## seaFs

Quadro FX 5600 SLI. G80 with 1.5GB GDDR3. Awesome for downsampling


----------



## lexer

Today i picked up a ASUS A8N-E - new old stock for a few bucks. Still having that smell of brand new electronics







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Quadro FX 5600 SLI. G80 with 1.5GB GDDR3. Awesome for downsampling


With that metal cover looks really industrial .. love it.


----------



## seaFs

Well, it is a workstation, the industrial look fits. The only thing missing is another four DIMMs to make it "the 32GB beast".


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> 
> 
> So this is my new beast machine. Not 939, but dual 940. Dissipates around 600W of heat in a case that barely holds an EATX-board (after removing the drive cages) an two full-length cards.


yeah i beta dual 940 gets along bit better than a single dual core! don't why more of us didn't go that route! i finally pulled my dual core 939 setup and it's 8gb of ram but, it got an am3 phenom 2 six core. :-/


----------



## seaFs

Indeed, quad core K8 with Raid controller feels really fluffy and responsive, but I can tell you why nobody did that: it's expensive. Even more considering "bang for the buck". The motherboard alone was almost 200$ with shipping and customs, and don't forget about the missing overclocking options.


----------



## lexer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Indeed, quad core K8 with Raid controller feels really fluffy and responsive, but I can tell you why nobody did that: it's expensive. Even more considering "bang for the buck". The motherboard alone was almost 200$ with shipping and customs, and don't forget about the missing overclocking options.


Clockgen doesn't work ? Vcore isn't a problem the VRM of those mother are super simple nothing that a vmod can't resolve


----------



## seaFs

Clockgen, SetFSB don't work with Windows 7.
nForce4 has its own integrated PLL. nTune is just total garbage. Windows XP is no option, because of bad NUMA support.

Risking a rare board with a voltmod? Nooo!








Besides, voltage is not the problem. Chipset cooling is. Above the tiny 40mm fan are two fat graphics cards, blocking everything. And nForce4 is known to be quiet hot. The H8DCE uses two of them...


----------



## gapottberg

Ah the nForce4 chipset. I hated that whiney little fan they used for it on my ASUS board years ago, so I replaced it with a massive beefy heatsink and had a case fan blow on it. Worked well as long as your GFX card still fit. I had something like a 7600gt silent edition which had no fans or heatsink on the front of the card but routed a massive one on the back via a large but slim copper block and heatpipes. It allowed everything to fit nicely on that board. I miss that old rig.

7600 GT silent edition
https://goo.gl/images/iFSus5

Zalman chipset heatsink
https://goo.gl/images/LrQebW


----------



## lexer

I finally make "Asrock K8 Upgraded T$rd" run stable, i find the way to increase the switching frequency and also added some smd capacitor to the socket (backside)



This is my little "benchtable" and watercooling that i assambled to test my babys











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> Clockgen, SetFSB don't work with Windows 7.
> nForce4 has its own integrated PLL. nTune is just total garbage. Windows XP is no option, because of bad NUMA support.
> 
> *Risking a rare board with a voltmod? Nooo!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> .


That is the fun


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> I finally make "Asrock K8 Upgraded T$rd" run stable, i find the way to increase the switching frequency and also added some smd capacitor to the socket (backside)


Benched this a long time ago. This was on air. Need to revisit this platform on the chiller.


----------



## lexer

Mr Scott. Any advices/tweaks for wprime ? my scores are crap compared to other users








I had a pair of OCZ that does 250Mhz @ 2-5-5-5-1T-7 but i can't give the volts that needs with this board. Probably i will do the 3.3V vdimm mod or build a custom vrm only for the RAM.

Thanks


----------



## Kryton

Speaking of WPrime, I'll just leave these here.......


----------



## lexer

Lol nice pot kryton .... very "Argentinian"









I found this puppys on the scrap sector of my job, they went directly to the vice


----------



## lexer

My poor asrock is hitting a OVP hard tonight i will try to remove that limitation and also i'm investigating if i can build a custom vrm for Winbond BH-5 ... I found this








https://www.techpowerup.com/articles//overclocking/motherboard/125/2


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> and also i'm investigating if i can build a custom vrm for Winbond BH-5 ... I found this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.techpowerup.com/articles//overclocking/motherboard/125/2


I've done those mods a couple of times on that DFI board.
While they do work, it radically shortens the lifespan of the board. Out of the three I did, no boards lasted a year.
All boards were benched at least sub ambient though so I'm sure that didn't help.


----------



## lexer

I resolved the stability problems changing the resistor of pin 9 (OVP) to 100K and also i applied some pencil on resistors CS1 / CS2 / CS3 to increase the OCP. No more sudden shutdown over 1.65V and I gained a couple of Mhz


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> I've done those mods a couple of times on that DFI board.
> While they do work, it radically shortens the lifespan of the board. Out of the three I did, no boards lasted a year.
> All boards were benched at least sub ambient though so I'm sure that didn't help.


Yeah in my DFI i will never do something like that. Here in argentina are REALLY rare. I know one dude that bought all the NOS / Scrap stock from a distributor in argentina, he has like 50 - 60 DFI boards


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> My poor asrock is hitting a OVP hard tonight i will try to remove that limitation and also i'm investigating if i can build a custom vrm for Winbond BH-5 ... I found this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.techpowerup.com/articles//overclocking/motherboard/125/2


like an external VRM circuit board? what are the benefits? more stable power for OC?


----------



## lexer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> like an external VRM circuit board? what are the benefits? more stable power for OC?


More voltage ! Winbond bh5 needs lots of volts to reach 250mhz.
Most boards only reach 3.2 - 3.1v with mods because the source of the mosfet is connected to the 3.3v line. But the DFI nf4 for example uses a special vrm that is connected to the 5v line and can reach 4V.


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> More voltage ! Winbond bh5 needs lots of volts to reach 250mhz.
> Most boards only reach 3.2 - 3.1v with mods because the source of the mosfet is connected to the 3.3v line. But the DFI nf4 for example uses a special vrm that is connected to the 5v line and can reach 4V.


Yeah, pretty much all Winbond need more than 3.2V to run at their full potential.

My kit of Centon Advanced UTT likes 250MHz 2-2-2-5 1T @ 3.3V or 270MHz @ 3.6V. My Kingston CH-5 (JEDEC pcb) does 250MHz 2-2-2-5 1T @ 3.4V, starts negatively scaling past 3.4V.

These Centons are sweet.







Just have to have the right board to use them. They work great in both of my nF4 Ultra-D's but my SLI-DR Expert throws a fit if I don't use them in the orange slots and then they'll only do 240MHz @ 3.5V.


----------



## cssorkinman

This stuff will get you there.

https://valid.x86.fr/show_oc.php?id=2206703


----------



## lexer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> Yeah, pretty much all Winbond need more than 3.2V to run at their full potential.
> 
> My kit of Centon Advanced UTT likes 250MHz 2-2-2-5 1T @ 3.3V or 270MHz @ 3.6V. My Kingston CH-5 (JEDEC pcb) does 250MHz 2-2-2-5 1T @ 3.4V, starts negatively scaling past 3.4V.
> 
> These Centons are sweet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just have to have the right board to use them. They work great in both of my nF4 Ultra-D's but my SLI-DR Expert throws a fit if I don't use them in the orange slots and then they'll only do 240MHz @ 3.5V.


WOW i never heard of Centons. Winbond are such a weird chip, how scales frequency without "relaxing" the timmings . I have a pair of OCZ GTX XT that does 250Mhz 2-2-2-5 1T with 3.3-3.4V i don't remember correctly. I found them in a old computer that i bought for u$d 10 and also come with a 865PE Neo2 Platinum








TCCD are the total oposite my kit of OCZ Platinum does DDR 640 2.5-3-3-6-2T @ 2.7V if increase the voltage becomes unstable, the good thing that almost any good motherboard give you 2.7-2.8V


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> WOW i never heard of Centons. Winbond are such a weird chip, how scales frequency without "relaxing" the timmings . I have a pair of OCZ GTX XT that does 250Mhz 2-2-2-5 1T with 3.3-3.4V i don't remember correctly. I found them in a old computer that i bought for u$d 10 and also come with a 865PE Neo2 Platinum
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCCD are the total oposite my kit of OCZ Platinum does DDR 640 2.5-3-3-6-2T @ 2.7V if increase the voltage becomes unstable, the good thing that almost any good motherboard give you 2.7-2.8V


Basically all Centon Advanced is TCCD so to have them come with Winbond is very odd. I believe this kit didn't make it to retail.

I have a bunch of TCCD kicking around. If I remember correctly my best kit does 290MHz 2.5-3-3-5 1T @ 3.2V. Though what TCCD is really best at is sheer frequency, I was able to get a cpu-z valid at 405MHz (DDR 810) 3-6-6-15 2T @ 3.6V using one of my better sticks. https://valid.x86.fr/p3wlm5 (Don't try this at home btw, 3.6V can kill TCCD pretty quick)


----------



## Kryton

I've hit DDR 600 before with a set of TCCD sticks http://www.overclock.net/t/1424095/ocn-socket-939-october-overclocking-competition/100#post_21001970 but didn't have to volt them up that high, normally 3.0 to 3.1 is all it takes for maxing a good set of these out.

I also made sure I had them running as cool as possible (Fan on them), _this is important_ since TCCD sticks WILL degrade with such voltage being ran with them. These have suffered this effect to an extent but also know the PSU used then vs now is making a difference. DFI's are picky about the PSU used and that in itself can be a deal-breaker in what you get.


----------



## lexer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> Basically all Centon Advanced is TCCD so to have them come with Winbond is very odd. I believe this kit didn't make it to retail.
> 
> I have a bunch of TCCD kicking around. If I remember correctly my best kit does 290MHz 2.5-3-3-5 1T @ 3.2V. Though what TCCD is really best at is sheer frequency, I was able to get a cpu-z valid at 405MHz (DDR 810) 3-6-6-15 2T @ 3.6V using one of my better sticks. https://valid.x86.fr/p3wlm5 (Don't try this at home btw, 3.6V can kill TCCD pretty quick)


Amazing !







I take care of my TCCD rams because here are super super rare. DDR2 and DDR3 you can find good rams but DDR1 is really hard. The max i tried was 2.9V but with negative scaling. I heard that some TCCD batchs don't like high vdimm


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> Amazing !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I take care of my TCCD rams because here are super super rare. DDR2 and DDR3 you can find good rams but DDR1 is really hard. The max i tried was 2.9V but with negative scaling. I heard that some TCCD batchs don't like high vdimm


Some don't, you're right to be careful with those and only to use what gets you there and no more.

Even here good TCCD sticks aren't something you run across everyday now and those you do find could have already been ran to death. I've picked up a few sets that were fine, some that were clearly getting towards the end of their life from being abused so much.

Luck of the draw nowadays so take care of what you do have.


----------



## lexer

One friend gave me this. A ASUS K8N with a A64 3000 and Coolermaster Hyper T6. Pure cooper and weights around a kg


----------



## gapottberg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> One friend gave me this. A ASUS K8N with a A64 3000 and Coolermaster Hyper T6. Pure cooper and weights around a kg


I will leave this here. Got me feeling nostolgic over my love affair with my winnie. I miss her sometimes, gone but never forgotten. My OCing addiction and 10+ years on this site all because of the little Athlon that could.

https://m.hexus.net/tech/reviews/cpu/933-amd-athlon-64-3000-winchester/


----------



## lexer

The best of taiwan







...


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> The best of taiwan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...


NICE!







Are they Winbond or TCCD?

I have some Geil memory myself but it's just some Ultra Platinum's with Hynix IC's I think. Still looks cool but a pain in the butt to deal with chrome sticks, finger print magnets.


----------



## Mr.Scott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> The best of taiwan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Um.......no.

These are.


----------



## lexer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> NICE!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are they Winbond or TCCD?
> 
> I have some Geil memory myself but it's just some Ultra Platinum's with Hynix IC's I think. Still looks cool but a pain in the butt to deal with chrome sticks, finger print magnets.


Samsung TCCD
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> Um.......no.
> 
> These are.


Okey you win this time


----------



## cssorkinman

All you need now is this http://techreport.com/review/8010/ocz-ddr-booster

And you are set!


----------



## Mr.Scott




----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*


Lol - well played.


----------



## seaFs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaFs*
> 
> So this is my new beast machine. Not 939, but dual 940. Dissipates around 600W of heat in a case that barely holds an EATX-board (after removing the drive cages) an two full-length cards.


New home for my beast machine. K8 to the max. With this wind channel cooling everything went down by at least 10°C. CPU heatsinks are now without fans and cooled by the case fans instead. Even the chipset temps went down, but no overclocking possible so far. 215MHz is not stable with ntune and causes almost instant blue screens. When in good mood, I can run a quick Aida64 memory bench and break 11GB/s read bandwidth









  

Any benchmarks you would like to see?


----------



## Herm

Hello there, to the ones that still use a socket 939 computer in this 2018 year...

This time I wished to share how good a quite recent SSD can do on an old A8N32-SLI Deluxe (nForce 4) motherboard...

Sorry - long post !

Some warnings for thoses who will try that same tests at home, BSOD may happen at reboot if things doesn't go right. All my tests were done on a clean OS installation on a old spare Parallel ATA HDD, took an image, and restore it after each test.

Windows XP 32bit
----------------


WinXP standard kernel, standard Microsoft IDE/ATA driver :
http://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=55177&stc=1&d=1516831489

I've also benchmarked my old 74Gb Raptor HDD for reference, as it matters below... (Note: I only have a 4Gb free patition at the end of the disk, so speed might not be as fast as usual, but it allow comparison between drivers tests done here)

Okay, so Sata-III drive on Sata-II motherboard = Sata-I speed ?

In fact, I took months to admit that it's purely a cable thing. This benchmark was done with a standard 50cm thin 'red' Sata cable. With a 35cm cable of the same kind, it mostly, but not always, enable Sata-II speed. Tests below were done with that short cable.

Later, I was given a 50cm thick 'black' 6Gb/s certified cable with latch, and since, the SSD is always in Sata-II mode.

=> If you have a Sata-II or more drive that only work in Sata-I mode on this board, change the Sata Cable !


WinXP standard kernel, standard Microsoft IDE/ATA driver, Sata-II :
http://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=55185&stc=1&d=1516831624

Not bad, but can it be improved ?

To go further, it will need to try other ATA/IDE drivers, and so to lost Trim feature from Samsung Magician utility. A way to limit the trim lack impact is to enforce free space on SSD, I made a partition on it that only cover 90% of drive capacity, 10% is left free.

I've tried :
- official nForce 4 SATA driver v10.3.0.42 ("NVIDIA IDE SW" from nForce WinXP32 v15.23 driver pack on www.nvidia.com);
- nForce 4 SATA driver v9.99.09 ("NVIDIA IDE SW" from Fernandos non-AHCI nForce Performance pack for XP 32bit v9.0 on https://www.win-raid.com/t21f37-NVIDIA-Integration-of-nForce-AHCI-RAID-Drivers-into-XP.html)
- UniATA v046e5 driver (From http://alter.org.ua/soft/win/uni_ata/. This one don't see my Sata LG DVDRom Drive, but have a nice command line utility that can reset a drive without rebooting the whole computer. Resetting the SSD brought back Sata-II speed when it was in Sata-I mode in windows !)

At best, I got :


WinXP standard kernel, Fernandos v9.0, Sata-II :
http://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=55193&stc=1&d=1516831676

In the same range than standard microsoft driver... What else to try ? 

The old v6.x nForce 4 "NVIDIA IDE SW" driver...
- There's a v6.66 SATA driver on nvidia website (From "nForce4/500 series - Windows 2000/XP" version 6.86 on http://www.nvidia.com/object/nforce_nf4_archive.html)
- And a v6.99 nForce 4 SATA driver (From Fernandos nForce LEGACY Remix Driverpack v9.0a for XP 32bit on https://www.win-raid.com/t21f37-NVIDIA-Integration-of-nForce-AHCI-RAID-Drivers-into-XP.html)


WinXP standard kernel, Fernandos LEGACY v9.0a, Sata-II & NCQ :
http://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=55201&stc=1&d=1516831716

Sometimes, it's best NOT to upgrade to the latest driver ! Whith NCQ support enabled, SSD random 4kb is greatly improved.

However, Raptor drive sees a huge drop in performance, -25% in sequencial read speed, -60% in sequencial write speed. Why ? Because this old WD740GD drive isn't compatible with NCQ (it only know an older protocol, TCQ, that wasn't widely used).

Fortunately, v6.x nVidia driver allow to disable Command Queuing for a drive...


WinXP standard kernel, Fernandos LEGACY v9.0a, Sata-II, NCQ on SSD only :
http://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=55209&stc=1&d=1516831759

Best of both worlds !


This motherboard also include a Silicon Image Sil3132 SATA-II controller (red Sata plug and eSata port, on the motherboard), this chip is hardwired to one lane of Pci-e bus. As that motherboard is PCIe version 1, one lane is 250Mb/s maximum... So getting more than 280 Mb/s as with integrated nForce Sata controller is out of question, but how much can it do ?


WinXP standard kernel, Sil3132 driver v1.0.22.0, Sata-II & NCQ :
http://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=55217&stc=1&d=1516831793

So the chip can use NCQ, but sequencial transferts are more in Sata-I range... It may be due to Sil3132 limit in the number of PCI-e posted requests, that could be improved by increasing the PCI-e bus Max Payload Size, that is 128 bytes on the A8N32... But I've not found any setting in the BIOS to change that value ! (More info on Sil3132 : https://ata.wiki.kernel.org/index.php/Hardware,_driver_status#Silicon_Image_3124)


----------



## Herm

Windows XP 32bit PAE patch

Does it works with PAE patched Windows kernel, that allow more than 4Gb ram use in Windows 32bit ?

- Microsoft ATA/IDE driver works out of the box,

- UniATA doesn't work at all, BSOD at boot.

- nVidia drivers works but need carfull install as SMBUS driver part do add a registry setting that disable large memory support in Windows XP memory manager (bugfix for Ahtlon CPU & AGP videocard, not really needed with PCIe videocard), BSOD guaranteed on 1st reboot !

Two methods to successfully install nVidia Driver Pack:

1°) Modify the driver to disable "LargePageMinimum" registry 
* Start the install Wizard that unpack driver files in C:\nvidia then cancel installation (nVidia official driver pack) or unzip the driver pack to a temporary directory (Fernandos unofficial driver pack)

* With file manager, enter the SMBus directory (By e.g. C:\NVIDIA\nForceWin2KXP\6.86\SMBus), and open nvsmbus.inf

* Search the line HKLM,"SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Session Manager\Memory Management", LargePageMinimum, %REG_DWORD%, 0xffffffff

* Put a semicolon at the start of that line, so it looks like ;HKLM,"SYSTEM\ ...

* Save & close the file. Now that driverpack is PAE compatible...

* Uninstall previous nForce/Fernandos package: Control panel -> Add or Remove Programs, "NvMixer" and "NVIDIA Drivers" (be patient, it may takes some time). Reboot, then let Windows to install default or unknown drivers

* Start setup.exe from within driver directory (By e.g. C:\NVIDIA\nForceWin2KXP\6.86\setup.exe) and accept reboot.


2°) Fix the registry on-the-fly
* Uninstall previous nForce/Fernandos package: Control panel -> Add or Remove Programs, "NvMixer" and "NVIDIA Drivers" (be patient, it may takes some time). Reboot, then let Windows to install default or unknown drivers

* Install the new driver pack in the intended way, but ** DO _NOT_ REBOOT WHEN ASKED ** .

* Remove SMBUS memory manager 'fix' : run http://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=55241&stc=1&d=1516832099 or manually : Start -> Run... , type regedit, navigate up to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Session Manager\Memory Management , right-click on "LargePageMinimum" (value should be 0xffffffff) and choose Delete.

* Reboot and, that's it !


WinXP PAE patched kernel, Fernandos LEGACY v9.0a, Sata-II, NCQ on SSD only :
http://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=55249&stc=1&d=1516832180

WinXP PAE Patch also modify the HAL to handle 32bit-DMA limit via double-buffering, but there's a light penaly on sequencial disk access.


----------



## Herm

Windows Seven 64bit

It's a bit like Win XP.

WinSeven, standard Microsoft IDE/ATA driver, Sata-II :
http://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=55257&stc=1&d=1516832916

I've tried some versions of "NVIDIA IDE SW" from :
- nForce 4 SATA driver v11.02.20.9 (Fernandos Latest 64bit nForce Driverpack for Win7-10 x64 v10.4 on https://www.win-raid.com/t15f37-NVIDIA-Optimized-nForce-Driverpacks-for-Vista-Win.html)
- official nForce 4 SATA driver v10.3.0.42 (nForce WinVista64 v15.23 driver pack on www.nvidia.com);
- nForce 4 SATA driver v9.99.09 (Fernandos Special 64bit nForce RAID Driverpack for Win7-10 x64 v10.4 on https://www.win-raid.com/t15f37-NVIDIA-Optimized-nForce-Driverpacks-for-Vista-Win.html)

At best, I got :


WinSeven, Fernandos nForce RAID Driverpack v10.4, Sata-II :
http://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=55265&stc=1&d=1516832916

No SMART info, no NCQ...


Then, why not try older drivers, just like with Windows XP ?

Old v6.x nForce 4 "NVIDIA IDE SW" 64-bit drivers :
- There's a v6.66 SATA driver on nvidia website (From "nForce4/500 series - Windows XP Professional x64" version 6.86 on http://www.nvidia.com/object/nforce_nf4_archive.html)
- And a v6.99 nForce 4 SATA driver (From Fernandos "Special 64bit nForce3-4 LEGACY Driverpack for Win7-10 x64 v10.3" on https://www.win-raid.com/t15f37-NVIDIA-Optimized-nForce-Driverpacks-for-Vista-Win.html)

Even if both install wizard fail to install the nForce SATA drivers of these packs on a Windows Seven computer, they can be installed via Update Driver from the Device Manager.

Note : nVidia driver v6.66 only install on SATA controllers; whereas Fernandos can be optionnaly installed on both PATA & SATA controllers.
- PCI\VEN_10DE&DEV_0053 ... is the PATA controller
- PCI\VEN_10DE&DEV_0054 ... and PCI\VEN_10DE&DEV_0055 ... are the two SATA controllers

WinSeven, Fernandos LEGAGY Driverpack x64 v10.3,SATA-II & NCQ :
http://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=55273&stc=1&d=1516832916

Smart info Ok, NCQ Ok, Samsung SSD does quite good, but WDC Raptor isn't happy... Just like before in Windows XP. Let's fix it by disabling "Command queuing" on this Raptor HDD.


WinSeven, Fernandos LEGAGY Driverpack x64 v10.3,SATA-II & NCQ on SSD Drive only :
http://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=55281&stc=1&d=1516832916


I've setup a test Windows Seven OS on the Samsung SSD with 6.66 'official' nVidia driver : Yes, Windows boot is fast ! (Windows 7 Experience Index / Disk subsystem score = 7.8 out of 7.9)

As this Fernandos can update PATA controller too, I've done some test to compare with Microsoft standard ATA driver... Both show really close scores on my PATA drive, with a tiny advantage on Microsoft for sequencial tests, and nVidia for 4k queued random tests... Well, at least, nVidia PATA driver doesn't seems harmfull.



Special thank to Fernandos that have done a huge work collecting and modding nVidia drivers, and in the hopes this post might be of some help.

Herm


----------



## DR4G00N

Got some more DFI goodness.


----------



## Acoma_Andy

DR4G00N said:


> Got some more DFI goodness.


CL 1,5 is awesome


----------



## DR4G00N

Acoma_Andy said:


> CL 1,5 is awesome


Indeed, I really like these nF3 250Gb's. I can run both my Winbond UTT & CH-5 up to 254MHz CL1.5 but more VDimm is needed for 260+, either that or another board.


----------



## Zeonic_Warrior

cssorkinman said:


> Quote:Originally Posted by *Mr.Scott*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lol - well played.


I actually used one of those. If I remember correctly it worked fine and helped me heat up the oven of a computer I was running at the time. The ram never worked in any other board after that, though.


----------



## eperelez

Hello, I would like to share some pics and info on my new socket 939 build I just completed. I present to you: FlashBack!

Here are its specs:

Processor - AMD Athlon 64 X2 3800+ Manchester Dual-Core 2.0 GHz Socket 939
CPU Cooler - Arctic Alpine 64 Plus 92mm
Motherboard - ECS EliteGroup KN1 Extreme 939 NVIDIA nForce4 Ultra ATX
System Memory - 2GB (2x1GB) Corsair XMS DDR 400 TWINX2048-3200C2PT CL2 RAM
Graphics Card - Sapphire ATI Radeon HD 3650 1GB DDR2 PCIe
Sound Card - AOPEN Cobra AW-850 PCI
Hard Drive 1 - 160GB Samsung Spinpoint SP1614N IDE w/ Windows XP POSReady 2009 OS
Hard Drive 2 - 500 GB Western Digital Caviar Blue WD5000AAKS SATA w/ Linux Mint OS
Optical Drive 1 - Lite-On DH-20A4H08C IDE DVD Burner
Optical Drive 2 - Lite-On iHAS120-08 SATA DVD Burner
Floppy Drive - Samsung SFD-321B
Card Reader - BYTECC U2CR-318/Hub
Keyboard - Microsoft MultiMedia PS/2
Mouse - Microsoft Optical Wheel PS/2 & USB
Case - Antec Solution SLK2600AMB Metallic Bronze Steel ATX Mid Tower
Case Fan - Arctic F8 Silent 80mm
Power Supply - SeaSonic S12II Series S12II 620 Watt
Miscellaneous - Audio-Technica ATH-M50x headphones, Logitech F310 Gamepad, Samsung 60" Plasma [email protected] TV

My very first computer build was a socket 754 system. My initial intention was to try to recreate that build from scratch (I was bored...) from brand new components, but the processor itself has been very difficult to find. It was the Athlon 64 3700+ Clawhammer and it was absolutely incredible in its day. Almost everything in this socket 939 build are brand new components with the exception of the RAM and 2nd hard drive. It is a 500GB SATA hard drive that was pulled from my Dad's PC when I upgraded it with an SSD. I decided to install it to dual boot with Linux Mint and the OS picks up all the components with no issues. Anyways, please excuse the poor cable management as it is a work in progress. I am planning to order some round IDE and floppy cables in the near future. I saw some nice purple ones I would like to get to match the purple PCB of the motherboard and the purple trim on the case!

Here are some pics:



































































Thanks for looking!


----------



## Jeffredo

eperelez said:


> B
> Case - Antec Solution SLK2600AMB Metallic Bronze Steel ATX Mid Tower


I still have that case! From my very first computer I assembled back in 2003. Has a paint job like a car on it - much nicer than what they do today. I'll never get rid of it.


----------



## eperelez

Jeffredo said:


> I still have that case! From my very first computer I assembled back in 2003. Has a paint job like a car on it - much nicer than what they do today. I'll never get rid of it.


It does look awesome! The 300 watt power supply that was included with it was not so great though. It actually self destructed on first boot and it was brand new. Smoke test fail! The price for the case alone was worth it to me though, and I did intend to upgrade the PSU anyway. I'm just glad it didn't take out any of the other components with it.


----------



## Jeffredo

eperelez said:


> It does look awesome! The 300 watt power supply that was included with it was not so great though. It actually self destructed on first boot and it was brand new. Smoke test fail! The price for the case alone was worth it to me though, and I did intend to upgrade the PSU anyway. I'm just glad it didn't take out any of the other components with it.


You found a new one this many years down the road? Wow.


----------



## toxick

I had nothing to do today so I made a video with my old system.


----------



## eperelez

toxick said:


> I had nothing to do today so I made a video with my old system.


Awesome! I've always loved the DFI Lanparty boards. So colorful!


----------



## SwishaMane

Well, I finally did it. Retired my s939 board in my HTPC and replaced it with my spare AM3 setup. This is her removed. IDK what to do with it now, lol.


----------



## CrazyMonkey

What about an old school gaming machine?


----------



## mattliston

If you want to turn it into a cool old style gamer rig, I have a pair of 9800 gtx+'s that I really need to pop into my spare computer and stress test. Pending results if you want to message me.

Keep the 939 alive!

I wish I could find a local dualcore 939 setup. But Im too cheap to buy and piece together an ebay system.


----------



## SwishaMane

If I did a build, I would use either my 8800gtx or gtx 260 I have laying around. I do have an old beige Antec case...


----------



## zila

One day, I'll get up off my lazy butt and put together a nice Old Skool 939 gamer again. I have several high end 939 boards and high end fast ram and dual core Opty's still brand new in there boxes. I have that very board in the pics and that cooler as well. Nice.


----------



## Nighthog

Got myself two s939 Athlon 3000+ systems. One original I myself bought with a ASUS A8NSLI-DELUXE board and another one I was given when someone was about to throw it out, some Abit board on it, never really looked into it but to see if it boots.

I had a basically awful experience with that ASUS board. Quirks and bugs galore, to need to learn to live with. The cpu was awful to try to OC. Got basically nothing out from it.


----------



## SwishaMane

Ooh, just looked through an old P4 Gateway tower and found some legit corsair Platinum DDR1. Noice!

lol


----------



## Mr.Scott

Super Talent is not Corsair.

Those sticks are micron chipped CL3. You can do way better.
Price was right though.


----------



## SwishaMane

Mr.Scott said:


> Super Talent is not Corsair.
> 
> Those sticks are micron chipped CL3. You can do way better.
> Price was right though.


LOL, I'm just being stupid.


----------



## Kryton

Scored what looks to be a killer chip last week - Arrived yesterday and testing so far shows it as being very good. 
Checked to see how it does with low voltage, how high it can go without setting voltage above 1.40V's and after all that, I delidded it to finalize setup for...... Well, you know.


----------



## zila

That's a sweet chip old friend. Can't wait to see where you take it.


----------



## nategr8ns

eperelez said:


> Hello, I would like to share some pics and info on my new socket 939 build I just completed. I present to you: FlashBack!
> 
> Here are its specs:
> ...
> Thanks for looking!


That build is amazing! Other than the cable management. Amazing that you could find all of those parts!



SwishaMane said:


> Well, I finally did it. Retired my s939 board in my HTPC and replaced it with my spare AM3 setup. This is her removed. IDK what to do with it now, lol.


Are those 4GB sticks? Were you the one who first figured out that we could even run those on an NF4 board? Either way, I remember when someone first posted about it and it blew my mind lol.

I've still got my MSI neo4-f board, one "working" Ultra-D (I can occasionally get it to post), 4x1GB of G.Skill HZ DDR500, and a handful of dual core Opterons. Until recently, the MSI board was a dedicated Morrowind rig for my girlfriend, but it has now been retired for a month or so as she finally got into Witcher 3 and now Skyrim. No idea what to do with it. I hate to get rid of the parts, but I don't think I have the patience to deal with the DFI ever again. It was a gift (technically a prize) from TxtMstrJoe so I don't want to get rid of it, but I can't remember the last time I even had it plugged into a PSU.


----------



## cdoublejj

nice to see the club still active, upgraded my old antec case with a dual socket 1366. just put the old asus board, chip and 8gb of server ram in the original asus box, figure i'll sell it cheap when i start liquidating my stacks and stack of retro part for shipping prices. i bet it would still run lubuntu pretty darned well. ran 7 and 10 fine.


----------



## SoloCamo

Still rocking my opty 180 @ 2.7ghz paired with Ocz gold vx DDR 500mhz cas2 and a x1950pro. Smokes so many budget systems when gaming is involved ironically. Kills my 2014 laptop.


----------



## SwishaMane

nategr8ns said:


> Are those 4GB sticks? Were you the one who first figured out that we could even run those on an NF4 board? Either way, I remember when someone first posted about it and it blew my mind lol.


No, seaFs discovered the 4GB dimms compatible with that board. I just followed closely and copied it, lol. You have to have a spare small dimm (1GB or less) to setup BIOS first, then swap to 16GB combo.


----------



## seaFs

Thanks, but it was the user "herm" (I guess) who discovered the DIMMs. All kudos to him.


----------



## cdoublejj

any gain over 8gb?


----------



## seaFs

At both of my configs (single and dual socket)? Not at all. It's slower, throws out ECC errors, causes crashes at stock clocks. Maybe the memory is defective, but "herm" also observed this behaviour. Only solution is to downclock to 333MHz, making everything even slower.
Stay at 8GB with sharp timings or high clocks. 16GB is just for the overkill feeling.


----------



## Aleslammer

@seaFs: This is about the fastest I've had 16g running which fits your 333MHz statement, although is nice for the overkill feeling!!!!

http://hwbot.org/submission/3454117_aleslammer_wprime___32m_opteron_180_24sec_328ms


----------



## seaFs

Enable Hardware Memory Hole and MTRR remapping in the BIOS. This way you can use 16GB instead of 15.


----------



## Aleslammer

seaFs said:


> Enable Hardware Memory Hole and MTRR remapping in the BIOS. This way you can use 16GB instead of 15.


Thanks


----------



## SwishaMane

I was able to run the 16GB at 200Mhz no prob. Using 333 setting at slight FSB bumps to dial in CPU OC and get the 200Mhz RAM speed. Was stable as hell for me.


----------



## seaFs

Check Windows Event logging WHEA error Code 47. If it occures once a minute (and I mean once a minute, down to the seconds, exactly 60 seconds) then memory is not stable. ECC and Scrub redirect must be turned on in BIOS.


----------



## SwishaMane

seaFs said:


> Check Windows Event logging WHEA error Code 47. If it occures once a minute (and I mean once a minute, down to the seconds, exactly 60 seconds) then memory is not stable. ECC and Scrub redirect must be turned on in BIOS.


I haven't run this board in about 2 months now, moved my HTPC from s939 to AM3+ 8-core setup.


----------



## Herm

seaFs said:


> At both of my configs (single and dual socket)? Not at all. It's slower, throws out ECC errors, causes crashes at stock clocks. Maybe the memory is defective, but "herm" also observed this behaviour. Only solution is to downclock to 333MHz, making everything even slower.
> Stay at 8GB with sharp timings or high clocks. 16GB is just for the overkill feeling.


Hi there,

I'm still around from time to time ...

At 16Gb, the only flaw come from heat. When ECC is on, it can help but the only way to really run stable is keeping these DIMMs cool.

Since I've mounted heatsinks + small fan on the DIMMs, Memtest86 show no more RAM faults even with ECC disabled, even after hours of testing (more than one Memtest pass)...

My current setup (Thermaltake part numbers) : 2x copper A1989 (center DIMMs) + 1x aluminium A1092 + 1x aluminium with fan A1165. I've just lowered slightly that fan speed @ 80% = 4500rpm, to keep noise below the other fans in this rig while getting RAM around 60° at full load.

I've also removed my old CPU fan, a Freezer64 Pro which I discovered had a broken part (the small plastic square that keep the fan right above the CPU was crumbling !). I now use a TrueSpirit 120M BW, which have the holes needed for a socket 939 CPU even if they don't advertise about it... Nice thing is the fan doesn't cover the 1st DIMM RAM, so I was able to get the Thermaltake DIMM fan above all the 4 DIMMs.

Maybe Arctic kit with 4x RC Pro memory heatspreader + RC Turbo Module PWM would be more efficient, but I couldn't find that PWM module that has been designed for these heatspreaders...

Herm


----------



## SwishaMane

If anyone is interested in my 16gb mobo/cpu/ram combo, pm me.


----------



## johnvosh

I'll be once again joining the socket 939 club! Recently bought an MSI K8N Neo2 Platinum off eBay with an Athlon 64 X2 4400+ CPU, just waiting for it to arrive. Going to put 2-3GB DDR400 in it and a cheap 120GB SSD and a Radeon 9700 128MB (for now). It will be running Windows XP for playing my SimCity 4 and a few of my other older games. I want to try and find the best AGP I can to pair with the system at a reasonable price.


----------



## cerulliber

Hi,

I have Opteron 170, 4x1gb ddr1 400, Asus A8N-E Deluxe
What is the best gpu to pair it ? 1030 / 1050 ?
I think 1050ti woud be bottleneck in games, no ideea if it would improove casual internet browsing and youtube and 1080p playback.
Do you think a dedicated lan card provided by Intel will bring less cpu utilisation ? Any other improovements ? 

I have an RX 550 2gb but it seems bios doesn't make it ... no UEFI ?

Thank you so much !


----------



## cdoublejj

i guess i have my 32 sli and now some other asus board, CPU(s) and ECC ram. even have an old aluminum Antec case.


----------



## rhkcommander959

cerulliber said:


> Hi,
> 
> I have Opteron 170, 4x1gb ddr1 400, Asus A8N-E Deluxe
> What is the best gpu to pair it ? 1030 / 1050 ?
> I think 1050ti woud be bottleneck in games, no ideea if it would improove casual internet browsing and youtube and 1080p playback.
> Do you think a dedicated lan card provided by Intel will bring less cpu utilisation ? Any other improovements ?
> 
> I have an RX 550 2gb but it seems bios doesn't make it ... no UEFI ?
> 
> Thank you so much !


AMD graphics cards haven't worked in a long time with 939 in my case. I think a 1050ti would be a good match.

If you can get the opteron to 2.8-3.0 ghz it will do well, you might be able to do 8-16gb of ram in that motherboard too as some have done here - i cant recall if the a8n-e could or not.


----------



## seaFs

A8N-E supports 8GB of RAM. (tested with Qimonda CF-5)


----------



## SwishaMane

rhkcommander959 said:


> AMD graphics cards haven't worked in a long time with 939 in my case. I think a 1050ti would be a good match.
> 
> If you can get the opteron to 2.8-3.0 ghz it will do well, you might be able to do 8-16gb of ram in that motherboard too as some have done here - i cant recall if the a8n-e could or not.


Back in the day I noticed my GTX580 was maxing out the s939. The newest equivilent to that GPU I know of personally is the GTX950. s939 just can't handle more. And yes, I have a couple RX 480s, and the s939 board wont boot. i think it related to PCI-E gen 3 spec vs. the s939 boards 1.1. A pci-e 2 card should work, but not pci-e3.


----------



## Mr.Scott

GTX460 pretty much max's out 939.


----------



## xzamples

anybody have an fx-60 for a passion project of mine? (build for a family member for the holidays) i cannot find one anywhere for sale or for a reasonable price


----------



## Mr.Scott

FX-60 is pretty rare now. If you find one, you'll pay dearly for it.


----------



## Elloquin

*Apraisal:*

FX-60 and Lanparty Venus Motherboard. Anyone have an idea what these are worth?

https://www.overclock.net/forum/10-...0-where-hell-can-i-find-one.html#post27736370


----------



## crazycrave

It's interesting to see people messing with socket 939 as I sold my 3800x2 rig to my father in law about 11 years ago and he still runs it everyday with a GS7600 .. I may have a 3200 laying around and I see a box with Abit KN8 - SLi in my closet unknown to me if anything lay in there lol .


----------



## FlawleZ

Sold my FX60 and DFI Lan Party over a year ago on Hardforums. It sold in less than 24 hours for my asking price.
https://hardforum.com/threads/s939-s775-lga1366-lga1155-hd-7870-2x8gb-ddr-3.1943364/


----------



## Hueristic

I dusted off my DFI LP/3800X2 last year to run 4 gpus for a little mining and its still gathering dust Sans the cards right now in a holding pattern.


----------



## BlueQuazar

Talk about running an old PC in today's world, this is awesome to run Window's 10 1803 build, 32Bits as an Internet PC!
With some minor gutting and hardware changes I need to make it compatible and it still runs like a champ!
I would love to find another set of ram that is currently in use but they NLA, :-(( 



Tsunmai Dream Case
A8N32-SLI
AMD 939 CPU
Zalman 9500 CPU Cooler
Corsair XMS 2GB (2X 1GB) 184-pin DDR SDRAM DDR 400
PNY GeForse 950 GTX DirectX 12 VCGGTX9502XPB-OC-B
Crucial SSD CT500MX500SSD1
viotec GN32C 32" 144hz Gaming Monitor
It maybe dated, but it runs!



The old photo below:
2 GTX 8800
creative sound blaster


----------



## Kryton

I still mess with my 939 stuff and have most of it yet. 
Did have to thin the herd awhile back but still have enough I'm set no prob.


----------



## zila

I still have some 939 stuff in the closet I haven't touched in a long time too. I think I still have at least 3 DFI Lanparty boards, an A8N32SLI and maybe a asrock 939dual-sata2. Even still have a couple dual core Optys brand new in box and several used single and dual core 939s. I would like to put something together in a couple weeks just to have an old style rig to play with. Yesterday I found a XFX HD4890 with a Zalman VF3000 mounted to it. Man, that is pretty. Plus two HD5870s. One Gigabyte and one XFX. I got rid of a lot of stuff a few months back too. Fun platform for sure.


----------



## gapottberg

I still have some memory from my old 939 laying around somewhere. Might have to throw it up on Craig's list. PM me if you are interested. I'd be willing to let it go for the right cause.


----------



## BlueQuazar

Gapottberg and Zila thanks for offering up rams, I brought OCZ 1GB 184-Pin DDR SDRAM DDR 400 (PC 3200) Desktop Memory Model OCZ4001024PF through Newegg and it worked with the A8N32-SLI but it was slow. 
But over the last two weeks, I could not remember why I swap out the motherboards from A8N32-SLI back to the A8N-SLI Premium years ago, now I remember!

The CPU fan was throttling up and down while idling, even worse when the quiet/cool was engaged. 
And also for some reason, the CPU ran hotter around 52c while Idling. 

so last week or so I've yanked the A8N32-SLI MB out and replaced it back to the A8N-SLI Premium MB which is a little snapper for this system.
BTW, I've changed out the power On/Off switch and tidy up the wires within the case that make it look slightly cleaner!

I have to much time on my hands, but it is so much fun to mess with this ole boy!


----------



## gapottberg

Ahhh those were the days. When a 1.8ghz Winchester could Overclock up to 2.4ghz for daily use...and 2.7ghz for benchmarking. Nice pictures man.


----------



## Alpi

First I want to greet all the 939 lowers ! This platform is one of my favourite, I'm bench as often as just can, really can't get bored of them. Fortunatelly I own some nice stuff now, sometimes it's hard to get decent hw's what You need or simply dream about long time.  Non stop searching is basic behaviour if You love 939, it seems. I wish I won't have to give up my relationship with these unique, interesting little things !


----------



## Mr.Scott

Hey Alpi. 
Fancy meeting you here.


----------



## Alpi

Hi Scotty ! I registered here some days earlier only ! It's not so huge world for an overclocker. DDDD


----------



## kwikgta

Mr.Scott said:


> FX-60 is pretty rare now. If you find one, you'll pay dearly for it.


I got 1 setting on the shelf that I bought new, along with two A8N boards and a whole stack of memory


----------



## rul3s

I've got three 939 cpu's, but not any mobo working! They all ended failing...

- Athlon 64 x2 3800+
- Athlon 64 x2 4400+
- Opteron 146

My died mobo was a magnific DFI LanParty nF4 SLI, wich it boots, but freezes sometimes.... Also got 2x1GB DDR400 (Gskill Platinium i think), all this on the wall like a portrait hehe


----------



## Hueristic

theCanadian said:


> Sapphire Pure Blue Board
> 8800GTS
> 4 sticks of 1G ram. I think one pair is Muskin Redline, but they both have aftermarket heatsinks on them.
> The current CPU is an FX-55. The system has been randomly crashing since that was installed. Will include an Opteron 165.
> Thermaltake Big Typhoon. The Boss Hoss of CPU coolers.
> Rosewill ~500w PSU
> A custom ATX tech bench I made
> 
> This stuff is destined for the trash bin. I feel bad about it so I'm making this post. In whole or in part, acceptee covers shipping.


FX-55


----------



## Mr.Scott

Hueristic said:


> FX-55


The board is a collectible also.


----------



## Redwoodz

Just got an Abit KN8 SLi w/shadow card,Athlon 64 X2,2GB Patriot PC3200 and a TT downdraft tower cooler. All for free.. and never overclocked since new. Weeee!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Long time no talk guys! Quick question, do any of you guys remember volt modding Socket A boards? Asking in here, because I know we have a lot of the classic platform peeps in this group. An OCN friend of mine, that really doesn't come onto OCN anymore these days, is getting into some NF2 boards, Gigabyte and Asus, and the problem he's running into is in the BIOS there's only +0.2v or +10% on the RAM, which really doesn't give him a whole lot of voltage control (I believe its the Gigabyte boards right now, his Asus needs recapped).

Any sort of tutorials or advice you guys can give, we'd really appreciate it. I'm still searching for my Socket A build, this HP in my sig is my "retro rig" right now, trying to go older, so I'll be relearning this stuff too again lol.


----------



## johnvosh

My current Socket 939 system is an Athlon 64 X2 4400+ on an MSI K8N Neo2 motherboard, 2GB dual-channel ram, Radeon 9700 128MB, 150GB Western Digital Raptor HDD, and Windows XP. I do really wish that more case manufactures would make this style of case. I like have the video card facing up so that you can actually see the heatsink, not just the boring back of the video card. Honestly, they should of put the components on the same side as they did with ISA cards.

Using this system for playing SimCity 4, Command & Conquer Generals.....

*Video card isn't in this pic as I am replacing the thermal compound on it


----------



## Mr.Scott

pioneerisloud said:


> Long time no talk guys! Quick question, do any of you guys remember volt modding Socket A boards? Asking in here, because I know we have a lot of the classic platform peeps in this group. An OCN friend of mine, that really doesn't come onto OCN anymore these days, is getting into some NF2 boards, Gigabyte and Asus, and the problem he's running into is in the BIOS there's only +0.2v or +10% on the RAM, which really doesn't give him a whole lot of voltage control (I believe its the Gigabyte boards right now, his Asus needs recapped).
> 
> Any sort of tutorials or advice you guys can give, we'd really appreciate it. I'm still searching for my Socket A build, this HP in my sig is my "retro rig" right now, trying to go older, so I'll be relearning this stuff too again lol.


CP is no longer.
Long story but, Warp9-systems took it over.
Look me up.
http://warp9-systems.proboards.com/


----------



## cdoublejj

nice to see the section is still alive. i wonder if anyone ever tried poly mods on any of these boards?


----------



## Kryton

I believe so but you have to know what pieces to look for in getting it done right. 

Haven't messed around with my 939 stuff for awhile now but not going to toss any of it since it's already here and paid for. 
Some of it I can never replace if I did sell it off or just toss it, that's how it goes nowadays. 

I'm just gonna enjoy it as I please.


----------



## Dhoulmagus

Kryton said:


> I believe so but you have to know what pieces to look for in getting it done right.
> 
> Haven't messed around with my 939 stuff for awhile now but not going to toss any of it since it's already here and paid for.
> Some of it I can never replace if I did sell it off or just toss it, that's how it goes nowadays.
> 
> I'm just gonna enjoy it as I please.


Indeed. The past few years has seen a massive resurgence in people looking for 939 and other "retro" hardware in general. It's getting harder and harder for me to do 2000s builds for affordable tinkering with the soldering iron. Most ebay sellers are asking hundreds for DFI Lanparty NF4 boards alone and FX chips are insane. 

I just grabbed an auction for 3 9800 GTX+ as well, G92 based GPUs will probably be out of reach for people like us soon too, unless you're willing to spend modern hardware prices which to me is ...nah...


----------



## Iconoclast

Holy! What a blast from the past!
It was neat to see this thread pop up on the Latest Discussions list again. I first started posting here when I was learning how to upgrade my S939 system 12 years back in 2007. I recently pulled an old poopy wifi PCI card from my very first genuine gaming rig with the Opty165/A8N32 mobo setup that's on the members list. I can't believe the CPUz validation link still works (3ghz! Yeah!). I converted the system into an htpc back in 2009-10, used it for about a year and have carted it around from apartment to apartment until my, now, wife and I bought a house. It perpetually hibernates in the basement until I can think of a use for it. I can't find the heart to dispose of the grizzled veteran... perhaps I should mount the motherboard and cpu in a frame and mount it in my gaming room??

Thanks for this, guys.


----------



## Dhoulmagus

Iconoclast said:


> Holy! What a blast from the past!
> It was neat to see this thread pop up on the Latest Discussions list again. I first started posting here when I was learning how to upgrade my S939 system 12 years back in 2007. I recently pulled an old poopy wifi PCI card from my very first genuine gaming rig with the Opty165/A8N32 mobo setup that's on the members list. I can't believe the CPUz validation link still works (3ghz! Yeah!). I converted the system into an htpc back in 2009-10, used it for about a year and have carted it around from apartment to apartment until my, now, wife and I bought a house. It perpetually hibernates in the basement until I can think of a use for it. I can't find the heart to dispose of the grizzled veteran... perhaps I should mount the motherboard and cpu in a frame and mount it in my gaming room??
> 
> Thanks for this, guys.


Mount it to the wall with a plaque reading "I Ran Crysis"


----------



## pioneerisloud

I see a few older faces in here still. Hi guys! :wave2:

It's actually kinda funny, me and my business partner (also from OCN) are actually buying a ton of 939 gear lately, Socket A gear, and other old stuff like that. My sig rig is nearly up to date, except CPU and RAM (Core 2 Duo e6550 at stock and 3GB generic mixed RAM atm). And honestly I'm perfectly content with an old rig still. I missed my old Windows XP games lol.

This all started because I wanted to build the ultimate Socket A rig. Athlon XP 3200+ M, 2GB Corsair XMS DDR400 (because its my old sticks that do DDR600), and a Radeon 9800XT with a couple Cheetah's or Raptors in RAID0. I ended up just re-using what I had laying around, my buddy decided to go to the bay and order everything he could find for good prices lol.

I definitely miss my old golden Opteron 165. Anybody have any idea where that went? I sold it to somebody in here from Canada with my A8N32 I believe. Would LOVE to have that back, really regret selling it now.


----------



## Kryton

Keeping my 165 because it is the golden one out of all. 
I rarely run it but when I do, it's awesome and I'm still blown away by how good it is. 

I believe somewhere in this thread it was mentioned who it was that got it. You'll have to look back to the time it was sold to find out. 
Dunno when that was so I'll have to let you check it out Pio.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Kryton said:


> Keeping my 165 because it is the golden one out of all.
> I rarely run it but when I do, it's awesome and I'm still blown away by how good it is.
> 
> I believe somewhere in this thread it was mentioned who it was that got it. You'll have to look back to the time it was sold to find out.
> Dunno when that was so I'll have to let you check it out Pio.


Come to think of it, I'm sure I was getting PM notifications in my email and I'm sure it would've been discussed via PM at one point so I can probably start my search there! :wheee:


----------



## Kryton

If you haven't deleted them all you should be able to find it.


----------



## Dhoulmagus

What kind of OC did you achieve on that Opty 165? I've been considering getting one along with a better suited 939 board just for the fun of it, but things are getting too expensive lately.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Serious_Don said:


> What kind of OC did you achieve on that Opty 165? I've been considering getting one along with a better suited 939 board just for the fun of it, but things are getting too expensive lately.


The one I'm trying to get back was running between 3.0-3.1GHz depending on what board I was running, stable......at stock volts. Most I ever got to was around like 350 or 360 FSB, was like almost 3.4GHz I believe, suicide voltages (1.55v on air, safe but not with my cooling for stability), and the only reason it wasn't stable was because the board topped out around 335-340 or so stable. I believe I got my "record" speed (I was in the top 10 on HWbot for a while with it) by booting in at 340 FSB (highest I could boot with), and I used Clockgen to get it up higher for suicide runs.

That same CPU had also ran 2.8GHz (312 x 9 I believe) during the summer months at only 1.20v (stock is 1.35v). Did that when I had high power GPU's and not enough airflow, so needed to keep CPU temps down lol.

The RAM I had at the time was 4x1GB Corsair XMS DDR400 CAS 2.5 that I had zero issues getting up to DDR667 stable out of them at 3-3-3-8 timings, or up to DDR575 or so speeds at 2.5-3-2-5-2T timings. 4 sticks were used for stability and daily use, only 2 of the 4 were used for the suicide runs.

Boards I was running at the time was a pretty decent A8N32-SLI Deluxe that topped out around 335-340 FSB or so. My board was the limiting factor with that CPU, running stable, but that was my daily use board because it was easiest to tune and to get high overclocks with stable, easily. But I had other boards too, DFI's, Abit's, Gigabyte's, and I even had that white Sapphire board at one point. I think I probably played with darn near every decent 939 board back in the day lol.


----------



## Kryton

Mine did this. 
https://hwbot.org/submission/3658758_bones_hwbot_x265_benchmark___1080p_opteron_165_0.9_fps
Voltage reported is accurate - That's about what I had it set for in the BIOS, obviously stable enough to complete the run. 
I'll have to get after the gold one day for that bench and reclaim it. 

And it did this too. 
https://hwbot.org/submission/2658219_bones_cpu_frequency_opteron_165_3514.75_mhz


----------



## Kryton

This happened last night while doing a teardown of a system I was testing. 
The board I had bought on fleabay and after testing showed it as being good I started the teardown. When I got to the part of removing the CPU cooler is when the unexpected happened - The lid of the CPU just popped off......... All on it's own. 

The CPU itself wasn't stuck in the socket or anything. 

Easiest delid I've ever done and it wasn't even planned, you can even see the outline of the bead from the lid in the glue as is.


----------



## Iconoclast

pioneerisloud said:


> I definitely miss my old golden Opteron 165. Anybody have any idea where that went? I sold it to somebody in here from Canada with my A8N32 I believe. Would LOVE to have that back, really regret selling it now.


It might have been I that bought your Opty back in the day. I bought two off here and my pm's only go back to the second one I had bought for my brother probably 6 months after I bought the first one. Like I said earlier, I still have it. It's sitting in my basement right now. I had turned it into an HTPC when I built a core2duo machine that I then held onto for more than a decade before finally building my sig rig.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Iconoclast said:


> It might have been I that bought your Opty back in the day. I bought two off here and my pm's only go back to the second one I had bought for my brother probably 6 months after I bought the first one. Like I said earlier, I still have it. It's sitting in my basement right now. I had turned it into an HTPC when I built a core2duo machine that I then held onto for more than a decade before finally building my sig rig.


Dude it WAS you! It makes a good htpc cpu (my old opty), that thing loved undervolting. I remember shipping to Canada and something about a basement and htpc, and your join date matches lol. Pretty sure winnepeg (or the area) is where I shipped to.

What kind of overclock do you have it on? I remember 2.8ghz was doable at 1.25v and 3ghz was doable with stock volts with droop (about 1.33v). Definitely enough for htpc usage still today even with a modern gpu for offloading transcoding and 4gb ram (doable on 939), or 2gb with Linux.


----------



## Iconoclast

pioneerisloud said:


> Dude it WAS you! It makes a good htpc cpu (my old opty), that thing loved undervolting. I remember shipping to Canada and something about a basement and htpc, and your join date matches lol. Pretty sure winnepeg (or the area) is where I shipped to.
> 
> What kind of overclock do you have it on? I remember 2.8ghz was doable at 1.25v and 3ghz was doable with stock volts with droop (about 1.33v). Definitely enough for htpc usage still today even with a modern gpu for offloading transcoding and 4gb ram (doable on 939), or 2gb with Linux.


That's awesome...  I remember getting over 3ghz easy on it. The HTPC was a short lived project as I had only used it for maybe 8 months before moving. I carted the system around from apartment to apartment before my wife and I bought a house a couple years ago. The now cannibalized system is sitting on a shelf downstairs. I was thinking about taking the A8N32-sli board and chip and framing them for my gaming room. I loved someone's earlier suggestion of putting a name plate on it to say "I played Crisis."


----------



## cdoublejj

If this forum isn't dead, the first person to cover shipping can have this Asus A8N SLI Premium, Worked/Posted years ago when last pulled from system.


----------



## Dhoulmagus

Sick giveaway.. tempted since I currently don't have a 939 rig... got a CPU and some DDR with it? 

if nobody jumps on this, I'll probably take it and relive the 939 days


----------



## cdoublejj

yeah i think it has a chip in it, stock cooler and 2 sticks in it and an XP COA laying on top of it, i might even be so tempted to a take few bucks off of shipping on the house.


----------



## Dhoulmagus

cdoublejj said:


> yeah i think it has a chip in it, stock cooler and 2 sticks in it and an XP COA laying on top of it, i might even be so tempted to a take few bucks off of shipping on the house.


wow... inquiring about this extreme 939 generosity via PM


----------



## AmericanLoco

I still have my Opteron 165. I had a weird RD480 ECS motherboard that wasn't super good - but it ran 300x9 24/7 for many years at stock volts! Never really tried to push it any higher than that. I'd love to resurrect this chip with a proper board some day.


----------



## cssorkinman

The old opty still got it


----------



## N2Gaming

Thumbsup


----------



## TheSubtleKnife

3800 X2 DFI Lanparty 7600GT crew roll call...


----------



## cssorkinman

TheSubtleKnife said:


> 3800 X2 DFI Lanparty 7600GT crew roll call...


"Present"


----------



## TheSubtleKnife

cssorkinman said:


> "Present"


Oh man that's a trip. And the physical SLi Jumpers....


----------



## Dhoulmagus

Is 939 coming back? Starting to see lots of 939 rig stuff, even WTB threads for them


----------



## cssorkinman

Serious_Don said:


> Is 939 coming back? Starting to see lots of 939 rig stuff, even WTB threads for them


It went away?


----------



## Dhoulmagus

cssorkinman said:


> It went away?




should rephrase

939 never dies

but it seems to be having a sharp increase in attention lately. I'm seeing a very large spike in people looking to do nostalgia builds lately


----------



## cssorkinman

Serious_Don said:


> should rephrase
> 
> 939 never dies
> 
> but it seems to be having a sharp increase in attention lately. I'm seeing a very large spike in people looking to do nostalgia builds lately


I think maybe people are a little bored with the new cpu's .


----------



## TheSubtleKnife

Build the rig we wish we had all those years ago...
Opty 185, 7900GTX, BH-5 ram chips


----------



## Multiplectic

So many awesome memories in this thread! 

Back then I had an A8N-SLI with a Venice 3200+ and 4x512MB Samsung RAM.
I was running a CNPS7700Cu LED on the CPU, a VF700Cu LED on the 6600GT and a ZM-NB47J on the chipset. Zalman was "it" back in those days, and TBH, I think we all know how crappy those little fans on the chipset cooler were.

Those were the good old days...


----------



## cssorkinman

Multiplectic said:


> So many awesome memories in this thread!
> 
> Back then I had an A8N-SLI with a Venice 3200+ and 4x512MB Samsung RAM.
> I was running a CNPS7700Cu LED on the CPU, a VF700Cu LED on the 6600GT and a ZM-NB47J on the chipset. Zalman was "it" back in those days, and TBH, I think we all know how crappy those little fans on the chipset cooler were.
> 
> Those were the good old days...


"Golden age"
seems appropriate


----------



## TheSubtleKnife

Multiplectic said:


> So many awesome memories in this thread!
> 
> Back then I had an A8N-SLI with a Venice 3200+ and 4x512MB Samsung RAM.
> I was running a CNPS7700Cu LED on the CPU, a VF700Cu LED on the 6600GT and a ZM-NB47J on the chipset. Zalman was "it" back in those days, and TBH, I think we all know how crappy those little fans on the chipset cooler were.
> 
> Those were the good old days...


I was on team Big Typhoon back in those days
https://www.newegg.com/thermaltake-cl-p0114/p/N82E16835106061


----------



## Multiplectic

I got on the Big Typhoon train much, much later on... When I managed to get one for free and stuck it in the parents' PC.


----------



## Uba

Hi all,i've registered to reply in this thread ,i'm a socket 939 enthusiast too.
I still have a Lanparty nf4 sli-dr with Athlon64 fx-60,2gb ocz platinum ddr 500 and Ati Radeon X1950xtx,that was good days 
Yesterday i have tested all my other 939 cpu founding them perfectly working,i have an opteron 180,165 and an athlon 64 x2 3800+.
I have also purchased a lot of defective motherboards where i've found an Asus A8n sli premium,Abit At8 32X and a lanparty nf4 ultra-d not in good condition(several smd capacitor under the socket has been scratched away,no bios,no socket heatsink retention bracket,no chipset fan).I'll try to recover all them,for the dfi it's obviously necessary some hot air soldering work,the asus is strange because it powerup and the fan revs but no error sound emitted(maybe dead bios,but i have also noted that the chipset heat up like hell),the best is the abit which do like the asus but in the ledboard after several regular codes the last post code is 48,which is not present in the manual ,if someone have had this board and can give a little help it will be very appreciated,have a good day.


----------



## Hueristic

TheSubtleKnife said:


> 3800 X2 DFI Lanparty 7600GT crew roll call...



Check.


----------



## OCmember

Owned an FX60 and a couple of Opterons. The memory kit was extremely low CL like 2.5? Something crazy low, IIRC


----------



## Alpi

If we talking about memoryes, let me offer my vid from the close past about a very first start and test from an Abit config after I've found a perfect uGuru panel. I hope You will enjoy the shapes, the colours, and the whole s939 magic what is radiate from this pc !


----------



## StormX2

Hello my brothers and sisters on 939!

Been a long time, hope people have been well during the crazyness. 
Saw this thread and Syrillians thread and got extra nostalgic. Just a small tear.

I had recently brought my 939 history up and realized how different things seem to be these days yet still the same lol.

For the record, my opty 165 was my best 939 processor in general.

But my old 3700 KABQE was an air clocking monster!


Oh, speak of Big Typhoon... there is one, pristine and untouched in my garage lol (might be missing brackets)


----------



## Death Dealer

While in Covid I was tempted to bust out my 3800 X2 and Opteron 165 both do 3.0Ghz on a DFI LanParty. I'm concerned I'll blow the caps though, I'll never get rid of this board or those CPU's, too much history!

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm06/4942132

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm06/5037425


----------



## doomaster

Hi there, so I'm making a rig for general purpose, and obviously OC a little to get most of it. Nevertheless, I can't go above 2.5 ghz, I know that mem config is not ideal, but as I want to use this rig I need those 4 gigs. I need 1.43v for 2.5 and 2.6 unstable with 1.47v. Tried all dividers up to /22 (100 mhz), increase DDR voltage. ¿What do you suggest?

Athlon64 X2 Toledo 4400+
4x1 GB Generic 200 mhz 2.5 CAS
Abit KN8 Ultra
Zotac Geforce GT630
2x Seagate 500GB RAID 0
Windows 7 Pro 64 Bits
Corsair CX430M

Thanks!


----------



## mattliston

My ancient 939 rig that I had nearly 10 years ago, required a mix of bus and multi overclocking to get a full 1ghz overclock.


bus only never worked due to memory limitations (ddr2 800).


multi only never worked (only ever got 600mhz increase)




I think you need to hit the ram with some extra voltage, like 2.1 to 2.2 volts


If the sticker on the ram says 1.8v, try tossing 1.95 volts at it to at least confirm the ram is stable.


I highly recommend writing down and posting all the settings, voltages, and ram timings you are currently using. Myabe something will show itself!!



you may need to raise chipset voltage up one tick (small jump) to gain some stability.






Otherwise, make sure your power supply has a STRONG 5v rail amperage.


----------



## Kryton

If speaking of 939 it's older DDR and that requires voltage of around 2.7v or more for it. 
If using sticks that's TCCD then the lid you'd want to use is around 2.9v's, they normaly don't tolerate more than that without consequense. 

If using BH5 based sticks then you can zap 'em with as much as you dare use - BH5 can handle up to 4.0v's with active cooling directly on them (Fan) and still be OK. 

Mind you this isn't suggested for everyday use but BH5 can handle alot of voltage and be happy about it.

All others I'd go with it as if they are TCCD based sticks (2.9v max) period to avoid problems.


----------



## Setmag

Hello, due the lockdown I decided to go for fancy retro DFI LanParty UT nForce4 SLI-D.
I was hoping to work flawlessly Unreal Tournament from 1999 online, some games from XP era and true lo-end newest ones.
I started from A64 3000+ but seems to be not so fast so decided to go for A64 X2 3800+ who goes to 2.8GHz v1.41 on Scythe cooler.
I was very happy playing with this DFI motherboard so I go for 8800GTX with 3 slots cooling for OC. Wow this is true beast I can run every game on FHD Ultra in DirectX9.

But there are big disappointments also.
Can't run Steam for lo-end games due to lack of one single instruction... CMPXCHG16b.
Same with Windows 8.1 and 10 x64.
Online gaming even in so old game as UT99 can cause performance problems.
I know how it's sound but there's no enough power 😅 Just more enemy's on screen and have FPS drop down. But this is very specific game who use only single core and evolve science 23 years by community. New mods and maps is no longer optimize for retroPC gaming.

I remember AMD commercials as a teenager.
s939 future-proof ultimate platform. First dual core for true multitasking desktop.
Windows 10 x32 works without problems as well captain obvious XP or 7 x64. Even newest 64-bit Linux SilentOS based on Arch.

Big companys decided to kill The Old King by one single instruction.
R.I.P


----------



## mattliston

Well, that is how things progress. That instruction probably does more for the system than many of us know.

AM2 is the minimum on AMD basically. You MIGHT be able to find that instruction on a server chip though and make it work


----------



## Owterspace

Wait till they drop a bunch of other instructions that are no longer needed.. there are a lot, and they just take up memory.. That is how old machines will truly be placed into obsolescence.

I didn't have BH-5, or TCCD, I had what was before those, and they scaled from 2.6 up to 3.4v. Cant remember the chips offhand.. dammit. I used the same OCZ ram on S462 and 939.

They were rated for 2.5-3-3-6 but would run CL2. Weirdest sticks I've owned to date.


----------



## domdtxdissar

This brings back memories 








Newcastle at above 3ghz on air cooling.. Think it was very good back in the days


----------



## breakfromyou

domdtxdissar said:


> This brings back memories
> View attachment 2477381
> 
> Newcastle at above 3ghz on air cooling.. Think it was very good back in the days


Why not grab some old hardware and see what you can do, then? I did









AMD Athlon 64 3700+ @ 2705.46 MHz - CPU-Z VALIDATOR


[1r5kkc] Validated Dump by xust (2021-02-19 07:35:29) - MB: DFI LP NF4 Series - RAM: 1024 MB




valid.x86.fr





Of course I went straight to 250fsb and it didn't like that at those settings


----------



## Death Dealer

Does anyone know someone that solders caps and rescues motherboards and knowledge of skt 939 boards, I think I have 2 DFI lan party SLI boards and a ASUS that had the 16x by 16x SLI. Also old Biostar SLI that I hit multiple 3ghz runs on 3800, Asus with via controller(POS), and a MSI something that had sli 8x8 and was MATX?


----------



## breakfromyou

Okay so I may be a little late to post this, but that 3700+ I was originally using is an absolute trash chip. Even with 1.5v, I can't push it much higher than the validation from 2 posts ago. So I dug through my old parts and found the Opteron 144 I knew I had somewhere. 









AMD Opteron 144 (UP) @ 2901.69 MHz - CPU-Z VALIDATOR


[z65z9y] Validated Dump by xust- (2021-04-20 09:07:48) - MB: DFI LP NF4 Series - RAM: 1024 MB




valid.x86.fr





I was just getting warmed up. I got to 2.6-2.7ghz and started waiting for it to lock up/BSOD (using clockgen, of course). It kept going and going and it finally froze! It was way too late to boot back up and get at it again. I turned it off and went to bed. I'm going to have to find a better cooler for this thing (maybe a different BIOS as well?), so I can push it even more. The Hyper T2 is not very good.


----------



## Ahnt

Wow, I might need to get a 939 socket and go down memory lane. My first setup was a pre-built K6-2, but 939 is what got me really hooked with overclocking. 

As for cooling, strap an AIO on it. And even better, maybe some CLU as well.


----------



## TheSubtleKnife

breakfromyou said:


> Okay so I may be a little late to post this, but that 3700+ I was originally using is an absolute trash chip. Even with 1.5v, I can't push it much higher than the validation from 2 posts ago. So I dug through my old parts and found the Opteron 144 I knew I had somewhere.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AMD Opteron 144 (UP) @ 2901.69 MHz - CPU-Z VALIDATOR
> 
> 
> [z65z9y] Validated Dump by xust- (2021-04-20 09:07:48) - MB: DFI LP NF4 Series - RAM: 1024 MB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> valid.x86.fr
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was just getting warmed up. I got to 2.6-2.7ghz and started waiting for it to lock up/BSOD (using clockgen, of course). It kept going and going and it finally froze! It was way too late to boot back up and get at it again. I turned it off and went to bed. I'm going to have to find a better cooler for this thing (maybe a different BIOS as well?), so I can push it even more. The Hyper T2 is not very good.


Nostalgia right there! Opty 144 was my first s939 CPU. Thats a pretty good OC I think. I had around 2.4GHz stable if memory serves me.


----------



## breakfromyou

TheSubtleKnife said:


> Nostalgia right there! Opty 144 was my first s939 CPU. Thats a pretty good OC I think. I had around 2.4GHz stable if memory serves me.


2.9 GHz is pretty decent, but hitting that magical 3 ghz mark would be nice. Higher would be even nicer.

Back in the day I had a Toledo 4400+, and it needed more than 1.55v for 2.8ghz. So yeah, I'm happy with the Opty 144 hitting 2.9 on 1.45v

Since then, I've upgraded cooling, updated (downgraded) the BIOS of the board so it's better with TCCD, replaced the chipset heatsink, and moved the RAM to the orange slots where they belong. I've been messing around with a 4200+ I found on eBay for really cheap, trying to push the RAM and failing. I need to find a chip with a good IMC or at least a set of TCCD that hasn't degraded over the years (or whatever happened to it). It's doing OK-ish. Basically doing everything I've done in the past on the exact kit of RAM, but -35 mhz or so.


----------



## SwishaMane

What's going on s939 family? Just doing a wellness check.

Dope seeing all this interest. I still got my Opty 185 A8N32-SLI Deluxe with 16GB RAM combo. Couldnt get it stable last time she seen power though. And Windows 7 throwing fits now-a-days. lol


----------



## Kryton

What's up Swish?
Good to see you around man!

Haven't done anything lately with my 939 stuff but still got it at least.


----------



## o1dschoo1

Recently picked up a alienware m7700 aka d900k with a opteron 154 2.8 single core and put a 4400+ in it. I forgot how good 939 was for the time


----------



## Kryton

I'd love to get a 154 myself, I miss the 152 I had before that died on me. 
I've got a 4400 and a 4800 too - The 4800+ being a real keeper of a chip.


----------



## o1dschoo1

Kryton said:


> I'd love to get a 154 myself, I miss the 152 I had before that died on me.
> I've got a 4400 and a 4800 too - The 4800+ being a real keeper of a chip.


I love the 154 honestly.. too bad I can't overclock it in this laptop I have so much thermal headroom.. full loading at 49c


----------



## SwishaMane

Kryton said:


> What's up Swish?
> Good to see you around man!
> 
> Haven't done anything lately with my 939 stuff but still got it at least.


HEY HEY! My board still sitting in that old Antec 902 case. LOL


----------



## ShrimpBrime

SwishaMane said:


> HEY HEY! My board still sitting in that old Antec 902 case. LOL


I had that same case for my 939 setup. Big old 220mm fan on top, I flipped that to intake. My brother,he got the 1200. I later upgraded to a TJ07. I think he still runs the 1200 with a 5800X rig inside.


----------



## SwishaMane

Whats up guys! Don't count these old setups down for the count. Just resurrected the old girl in hopes of a TrueNAS machine. She is posting and installed TrueNAS 12 after kernal panicing during 13.0 install. Stock acorss the board, RAM is even full 200MHZ at the increased density!

Antec 902 w/ potential 12 HDD bays...
ASUS A8N32-SLI Deluxe exploited for 16GB RAM 4x4GB Samsung ECC dimms
Opty 185 @ stock 2.6ghz
Random no pci-e power AMD GPU (want something even smaller)

Testing 3x 6TB drives on a pci-e sata controller soon. If it pans out, will move to 6x 6TB drives. Concerned about idle wattage draw though. Need a NAS not a bigger power bill.

Should I downclock the CPU and lower the vCore too? TrueNas only said 64bit CPU and 16GB RAM, never mentioned core count or freq... 


PEACE!

_pics soon_


----------



## TheSubtleKnife

TrueNAS has this for the minimum requirements: 2-Core Intel 64-Bit or AMD x86_64 processor

But I somehow doubt they are expecting literally one of the first 64bit CPUs lol.


----------



## SwishaMane

Well I dont know if this old girl will be able to be the final TrueNAS machine, but will be enough for me to test and tryout. Will probably end up replacing with my Ryzen 3600 spare mobo combo. Just happy she is still alive!


----------



## Multiplectic

That's like a 2005-2006 dream machine.


----------



## thigobr

You can try to play with CnQ and Powernow. Check if your BIOS supports it. Linux should detect automatically and change frequency/voltage accordingly.


----------



## SwishaMane

I think I corrupted the BIOS. She was freezing in bios menu after cmos reset and using 2x1GB normal RAM. hmmph


----------



## ShrimpBrime

SwishaMane said:


> I think I corrupted the BIOS. She was freezing in bios menu after cmos reset and using 2x1GB normal RAM. hmmph


I'd try a different cpu for sure. The battery good? New?


----------



## SwishaMane

Slapped a new batt in when I was first powering it on. Have no idea anymore. Alrdy swapped guts with my psare ryzen build. Need to launch this NAS soon.


----------



## SwishaMane

Anyone got a CPU and bios chip for a A8N32-SLI Deluxe I could borrow to test this board? She seems big dead now...


----------



## ShrimpBrime

SwishaMane said:


> Anyone got a CPU and bios chip for a A8N32-SLI Deluxe I could borrow to test this board? She seems big dead now...


I don't have a bios chip, but you could try Bios Depot on Ebay for that. Custom ROMs at Warp9-systems by request.

A cpu I can help you with though. Hit my PM box with your addy, I'll ship one to ya.


----------



## Death Dealer

SwishaMane said:


> Anyone got a CPU and bios chip for a A8N32-SLI Deluxe I could borrow to test this board? She seems big dead now...


Just saw your sig, AMD 939 X2 era, I remember those days.








I scored 11 509 in 3DMark06


AMD Opteron Processor 165, NVIDIA GeForce 8800 GTS 320MB/640MB x 1, 2032 MB, 64-bit Microsoft Windows Server 2003}




www.3dmark.com


----------



## N2Gaming

Any one running a DFI NF4 board on Windows 7?

I'm having an issue with the OS Installation hanging on the setting up the desktop screen. OS Win 7 Ultimate x64. Not sure if the bios is the problem, bios settings, or if something else can be causing the os to hang.


----------



## 420Assassin

N2Gaming said:


> Any one running a DFI NF4 board on Windows 7?
> 
> I'm having an issue with the OS Installation hanging on the setting up the desktop screen. OS Win 7 Ultimate x64. Not sure if the bios is the problem, bios settings, or if something else can be causing the os to hang.


i used to run win7 ult x64 on my old board when it was in use. it should be able to install and be used as a daily no issues.
my old setup






CPU-Z Validator 3.1


CPU-Z Validation Checker (by canardpc.com)



valid.x86.fr













Currently Owned - 939 Legend (retired.. tucked away...







www.overclock.net


----------



## N2Gaming

Yeah I'm trying to dig it out of the dust pile and make use of it again. probably use it for ripping cd's, and transfer all my old floppy files onto a bigger HDD. For now I just want to get it going LOL. 

I'm going to start with setting the ram timing manually and the voltage to 2.8v and go from there.

Wondering if I have a faulty usb device like a logitech G9x if that would cause issues booting into windows.


----------



## 420Assassin

N2Gaming said:


> Yeah I'm trying to dig it out of the dust pile and make use of it again. probably use it for ripping cd's, and transfer all my old floppy files onto a bigger HDD. For now I just want to get it going LOL.
> 
> I'm going to start with setting the ram timing manually and the voltage to 2.8v and go from there.
> 
> Wondering if I have a faulty usb device like a logitech G9x if that would cause issues booting into windows.


easy to test, just unplug when you think its hanging and see after you do it it continues to boot.


----------



## N2Gaming

I finally got into windows and got drivers installed 

I used a different mouse, changed ram timings and voltage and it booted up. I'll have to try the other mouse again to see if it hangs up again upon booting into windows.


----------



## ShrimpBrime

N2Gaming said:


> I finally got into windows and got drivers installed
> 
> I used a different mouse, changed ram timings and voltage and it booted up. I'll have to try the other mouse again to see if it hangs up again upon booting into windows.


Which slots are you using? Try the orange ones.


----------



## N2Gaming

I was using both yellow then orange. I finally got it going and was able to do some benchmarking with the cpu.

I think the biggest problem was the old WD raptor 36gb sata drive I was trying to use. Problematic drives. both of them :/


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## scishfottman

Much nostalgic love for Socket 939. My first build was on this platform and it was a blast.

And now I'm trolling auctions...

*Second edit*

And now I have a CPU/Motherboard/RAM combo on it's way.


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## N2Gaming

Ok another question for the dfi Nf4 sli dr board.

I have 4 slots of ddr400 OCZ populated and when I run memtest86 it only reads as having 2gb or 2048mb in the system when in memtest86 screen. When in Windows 7 it shows all the ram in all 4 slots and as having 4gb of ram in cpu-z. Win 7 x64 itself is only using 2GB.

Does this sound right or is there an issue I need to look into to try and test 4 ram modules all at the same time?

I think I read somewhere that memtest86 only test's 2 sticks or only likes to test 2 sticks in Ver:4 and under.

Any one have a clue?

Edit: I ran memtest86 ver:1.47 or something like that which is built into the bios as well as the ver: 4.xx and same issue with only 2 sticks of ram showing up in the memtest86 screen.

I tested another system with 4x8gb of ram sticks and memtest ver: 4.xx is able to see all 32gb of ram. 

This has me wondering if there is a setting in the bios that needs to be switched on the get memtest86 to recognize all 4 sticks?


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## Fusion Racing

Saw your post elsewhere, had a browse around because I very vaguely remember people having issues with this like 15+ years ago and it's been a long time since I last used my DFI Ultra-D.

Memtest should be able to test all 4 sticks, I've seen people running it with 4 DIMMs to test if that's stable or not.

If there is a setting for memory hole remapping then that might be the fix for it. Otherwise the only other option I can think of would be to try a different BIOS version, all can be found here on TPU including some modded options. I know some S939 boards had the remapping option, including some DFI BIOS' but I'm not too sure if that includes the SLI-DR. From what I can remember you can be limited to DDR333 with certain 4 DIMM configurations too.

Two old threads I found: here and here.

Apologies if you've already seen these/tried those options.


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## N2Gaming

Thank you Fusion. I started a thread about it at TPU but not many replies at all. After looking at it for the link I see some other replies over there. I also posted about it again here in a OCN thread dedicated just to the issue. Found HERE.

I was thinking I should try to flash to this bios but forgot the procedure to flashing the bios on this board "slaps forehead"


23/06/2005 FinalSLI-DR/Ultra-D/SLI-DN4D623-3N4D623-3.zip(*)


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## cssorkinman

N2Gaming said:


> Thank you Fusion. I started a thread about it at TPU but not many replies at all. After looking at it for the link I see some other replies over there. I also posted about it again here in a OCN thread dedicated just to the issue. Found HERE.
> 
> I was thinking I should try to flash to this bios but forgot the procedure to flashing the bios on this board "slaps forehead"
> 
> 
> 23/06/2005 FinalSLI-DR/Ultra-D/SLI-DN4D623-3N4D623-3.zip(*)


@Mr.Scott would you be able to help N2 out with this?


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## Fusion Racing

N2Gaming said:


> Thank you Fusion. I started a thread about it at TPU but not many replies at all. After looking at it for the link I see some other replies over there. I also posted about it again here in a OCN thread dedicated just to the issue. Found HERE.
> 
> I was thinking I should try to flash to this bios but forgot the procedure to flashing the bios on this board "slaps forehead"
> 
> 
> 23/06/2005 FinalSLI-DR/Ultra-D/SLI-DN4D623-3N4D623-3.zip(*)


Page 116 here explains how to do it, basically you need AWDFLASH.EXE and the BIOS on a floppy drive, boot from it, run AWDFLASH.EXE and then update the BIOS. Don't use Winflash because you can have all sorts of issues with it, I remember reading about people bricking boards back in the day. Once you update make sure you reset to default and don't load any CMOS Reloaded settings from the old BIOS. As always with BIOS updates, be careful.


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## N2Gaming

Thank you for that Fusion, you may have just saved my but with awdflash.exe. I had downloaded winflash.



EDIT: Is there a proper version of AWDFLASH.exe that should be used?

So many to choose from






Award Flasher (awdflash, winflash) utility- Download all available Award flasher versions


Download all Award BIOS Flasher (awdflash, winflash) utility versions from Wim's BIOS




www.wimsbios.com


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## N2Gaming

The x2 4400+ is out for delivery along with 2 more kits of ram. Hopefully I'll end up with 2 exact matching OCZ Platinum kits of 2x2GB = 4 matched sticks of ram. 

I should know later this evening if I'll be flashing the bios as a last ditch resort to try to make the system see 4gb of ram as well as Memtest86+


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## N2Gaming

Problem solved: My conclusion after a lot of detective work and help with definitive results = It was the ram causing the system to not see all 4GB. Ram was not exact matching sets even though the part numbers on all the labels say they are.


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## Fusion Racing

N2Gaming said:


> Problem solved: My conclusion after a lot of detective work and help with definitive results = It was the ram causing the system to not see all 4GB. Ram was not exact matching sets even though the part numbers on all the labels say they are.


Interesting that matching sets have different IC's - different batch?

Glad you got things sorted so you can use the 4400+, hopefully that stepping OCs well.


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## N2Gaming

I purchased 3 new to me kits and out of those 3 was able to use two kits. One of the new 3 kits has a damaged stick of ram. a broken IC on the stick of ram. Other wise I'd have 3 kits that would all work together or a kit that I could sell to some one else LOL. I just purchased another kit today that might match the other set I have so I'm going to have OCZ platinum ram coming out of my ears lol. I guess it's good to have extras for a time if / when I want to try to push an overclock and push some volts through them.


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## Fusion Racing

N2Gaming said:


> I purchased 3 new to me kits and out of those 3 was able to use two kits. One of the new 3 kits has a damaged stick of ram. a broken IC on the stick of ram. Other wise I'd have 3 kits that would all work together or a kit that I could sell to some one else LOL. I just purchased another kit today that might match the other set I have so I'm going to have OCZ platinum ram coming out of my ears lol. I guess it's good to have extras for a time if / when I want to try to push an overclock and push some volts through them.


The part that's missing looks like it's just a capacitor, usually they're used for filtering so sometimes you can get away with it. I remember losing a cap off the back of my 7800 GT back in the day, worked just the same without it. If you decide to try the stick with the missing component, just make sure it's not shorting across the pads.

Can't go wrong with having some spares though.


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## N2Gaming

I have a couple of dead gpu's that might have one I could transfer over but I don't have a way to know what's what with those capacitors.

what happens if it's shorted and used?


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## Fusion Racing

N2Gaming said:


> I have a couple of dead gpu's that might have one I could transfer over but I don't have a way to know what's what with those capacitors.
> 
> what happens if it's shorted and used?


If you wanted to replace the capacitor you'd want to take one of the other ones off and measure its value out of circuit so you get something around the right value. Most other components have the value printed on them but those small capacitors quite often don't. The other thing the capacitor could be for is working as part of the power delivery for the memory, they act somewhat as a reservoir so without it the stick might not function correctly in that case. I'd say to just make sure it's not shorted across the pads to be on the safe side, but if it were in series with other important components you'd likely have to connect across anyway, preferably with a replacement part.


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## N2Gaming

The seller offered to refund $16 which would bring my cost to about $14 for the kit. Not sure it’s worth my time to try and fix a ram module that may not be salvageable by just adding a new cap. I’ll probably just return it for the full refund and put the money towards another good kit of ram. 

I’m assuming you don’t really know that if it was shorted prior to me acquiring it, if it would have damaged anything else on the module or if me trying to use it could damage any of my hardware like mobo or cpu?


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## Fusion Racing

N2Gaming said:


> The seller offered to refund $16 which would bring my cost to about $14 for the kit. Not sure it’s worth my time to try and fix a ram module that may not be salvageable by just adding a new cap. I’ll probably just return it for the full refund and put the money towards another good kit of ram.
> 
> I’m assuming you don’t really know that if it was shorted prior to me acquiring it, if it would have damaged anything else on the module or if me trying to use it could damage any of my hardware like mobo or cpu?


Probably wouldn't damage anything, but there's no way to be entirely sure. Most likely thing is it just wouldn't be stable at stock speeds. If you can get some money back it's worth doing that.


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## N2Gaming

I can get all of the money back 100% no issue. I'm not sure what I want to do atm. one good stick of 1gb ocz plat 2-3-2-5 ram for $14.00 does not seem like a good deal to me when I don't have one to pair with it. natually it would come in handy in the event I kill a stick overclocking and volting but idk if it's worth $14.00 to me This is even before running memtest 86+ on it to see if the good one actually is any good.

One thing I have noticed after having all 4 sticks of ram populated and working the system will not display video every other boot or so. Not sure why but so far every time I hit Ctrl/Alt/Del to reboot the video came right back. strange how it's happening now.


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## Death Dealer

N2Gaming said:


> Ok another question for the dfi Nf4 sli dr board.
> 
> I have 4 slots of ddr400 OCZ populated and when I run memtest86 it only reads as having 2gb or 2048mb in the system when in memtest86 screen. When in Windows 7 it shows all the ram in all 4 slots and as having 4gb of ram in cpu-z. Win 7 x64 itself is only using 2GB.
> 
> Does this sound right or is there an issue I need to look into to try and test 4 ram modules all at the same time?
> 
> I think I read somewhere that memtest86 only test's 2 sticks or only likes to test 2 sticks in Ver:4 and under.
> 
> Any one have a clue?
> 
> Edit: I ran memtest86 ver:1.47 or something like that which is built into the bios as well as the ver: 4.xx and same issue with only 2 sticks of ram showing up in the memtest86 screen.
> 
> I tested another system with 4x8gb of ram sticks and memtest ver: 4.xx is able to see all 32gb of ram.
> 
> This has me wondering if there is a setting in the bios that needs to be switched on the get memtest86 to recognize all 4 sticks?


I do remember my DFI Lan Party had a bunch of dip switches, also had the same ram, and one day the board refused to boot, I took the sticks out and put in another set of Mushkin and fired right up. I then put the OCZ in my Biostar,MSI, Asus boards and works. Anyways say goodbye to that lifetime warranty, RIP OCZ!

Try reseating your CPU the memory controller is on the Processor.
Athlon 64 has changed the end-all importance of chipsets, at least for Athlon 64, just by moving the memory controller from the chipset to the processor. 
Source: Socket 939 Chipsets: Motherboard Performance & PCI/AGP Locks


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## SwishaMane

N2Gaming said:


> I purchased 3 new to me kits and out of those 3 was able to use two kits. One of the new 3 kits has a damaged stick of ram. a broken IC on the stick of ram. Other wise I'd have 3 kits that would all work together or a kit that I could sell to some one else LOL. I just purchased another kit today that might match the other set I have so I'm going to have OCZ platinum ram coming out of my ears lol. I guess it's good to have extras for a time if / when I want to try to push an overclock and push some volts through them.
> 
> View attachment 2585334


Get the part and I could probably fix that. Just need a closer pic after cleanup with rubbing alcohol.


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## N2Gaming

fixing is not the hard part. finding and salvaging the part and it being worth my time and effort now that's another story.


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